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COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


A  New  American  Cook  Book 


ADAPTED  FOR  THB  USE  OP  ALL 


WHO  SERVE  MEALS  FOR  A  PRICE. 


BY 


JESSUP  WHITEHEAD. 


Third  Edition. 


JESSUP  WHITEHEAD  i  Co.,  Publishers 

189a 


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Cc^l  f^^'^ 


rx 

mi 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  office  of  the  Librarian  at  Washington, 
by  Jessup  Whitehead,  1S82.— All  rights  reserved. 


TX7/$ 

Bros 


In  compliance  with  cun-ent  copyright 

law,  U.  C.  Library  Bindery  produced 

this  replacement  volume  on  paper 

that  meets  ANSI  Standard  Z39.48- 

1984  to  replace  the  irreparably 

deteriorated  original 


1998 


CONTENTS. 


PART  FIRST— Some  Articles  for  the  Show  Case.  The  Lunch  Counter.  Restannmt 
Breakfast,  Lunches  and  Dinners.  Hotel  Breakfasts,  Dinners  and  Suppers. 
Oyster  and  Fish  House  Dishes.  The  Ice  Cream  Saloon.  Fine  Bakery  Lunch. 
Quaker  Dairy  Lunch.     Confectionery  Goods,  Homemade  Beers,  etc. 

PART  SECOND— Eight  Weeks  at  a  Summer  Resort  A  Diary.  Our  daily  Bill  of 
Fare  and  ivkat  it  costs.  A  Party  Supper  for  Forty  Cents  per  Plate.  The  Art 
of  Charging  Enough.  A  School  Commencement  Supper.  Question  of  How 
Many  Fires.  Seven  Fires  for  fifty  persons  vs.  OTtefire  for  fifty.  The  Round' of 
Beef  for  Steak.  A  Meat  Block  and  Utensils.  Bill  of  Groceries.  A  Months 
Supply  for  a  Summer  Boarding  House^  -with  Prices.  A  Refrigerator  Wanted. 
About  keeping  Provisions;  Restaurant  Patterns.  A  Good  Hotel  Refrigerator. 
Cost  of  Ice  to  supply  if.  Shall  we  have  a  Bill  of  Fare?  Reasons  -why:  a  Blank 
Form.  Is  Fish  Cheaper  than  Meat?  Trouble  with  the  Coffee.  How  to  Scrub 
the  Kitchen.  Trouble  with  Steam  Chest  and  Vegetables.  Trouble  with  the 
Oatmeal.  Building  a  House  with  Bread  Crusts.  Puddings  without  Eggs.  A 
Pastry  and  Store  Room  Necessary.  A  Board  on  a  Barrel.  First  Bill  of  Fare. 
Trouble  with  Sour  Meats.  Trouble  with  the  Ice  Cream.  The  Landlord's  Birth- 
day Supper.  Showing  how  rich  and  fancy  Cakes  were  made  and  iced  and  orna- 
mented witJiont  using  Eggs.  The  Landlady's  Birthday  Supper.  Trouble  in 
Planning  Dinners.  Trouble  with  Captain  Johnson.  Trouble  in  Serving  Meals. 
Trouble  with  the  Manager.  Breakfasts  and  Suppers  for  Six  Cents  per  Plate. 
Hotel  Dinners  for  Ten  Cents  per  Plate.  Hotel  Dinners  for  Seventeen  Cents  per 
Plate.  Supper  for  Forty  for  Eight  Cents  per  Plate.  Breakfast  for  Forty  for 
Nine  Cents  per  Plate.  An  Expensive  Wedding  Breakfast,  for  the  Colonel  and 
the  Banker's  Daughter.  Four  Thousand  Meals.  Review.  Groceries  for  4,00a 
Meat,  Fish  and  Poultry  for  4,000.  Flour,  Sugar  and  Coffee  for  4,000.  Butter 
and  Eggs  for  4,000.  Potatoes,  Fresh  Vegetables  and  Fruits  for  4,000.  Canned 
Fruits  and  Vegetables  for  4,000.  Milk  and  Cream  for  4,000.  Total  Cost  of 
Provisions  for  4,000.  How  to  Save  Twenty  Dollars  per  Week.  How  Much  we 
Eat,  How  Much  we  Drink.  How  Much  to  Serve.  Work  and  Wages.  Laundry 
Work.  Fuel,  Light  and  Ice.  Total  Cost  of  Board.  How  Much  Profit?  How 
Many  Cooks  to  How  Many  People?  Boarding  the  Employes.  Boarding 
Children.  Meals  for  Ten  or  Fifteen  Cents.  Country  Board  kt  Five  Dollars. 
If — a  Bundle  of  Suppositions.  Keeping  Clean  Side  Towels.  How  Many  Fires 
— Again.     A  Proposal  to  Rent  for  next  Season.     Conclusion. 

THE  CONTENTS  ALSO  INCLUDE: 

ONE  HUNDRED  DIFFERENT  BILLS  OF  FARE— Of  Actual  Meals,  all  with 

New  Dishes ;  the  Amount  and  the  Cost  per  Head. 
ELEVEN  HUNDRED  RECIPES.— AH  live  matter  that  every  Cook  needs— both 

by  Weight  and  by  Cup  and  Spoon  Measure. 
A  DICTIONARY  OF  COOKERY— Comprised  in  the  Explanations  of  Terms  and 

General  Information  contained  in  the  Directions. 
ARTISTIC    COOKERY.— Instructions  in   Ornamentation,  with   Illustrations,  and 

Notes  on  the  London  Cookery  Exhibition  of  1885. 


PREFACE. 


iliU  book  Is  tn  many  respects  a  continu- 
ation of  the  preceding  volumes  in  the  series, 
tt  fulfills  the  designs  that  were  intended  but 
not  finished  before,  more  particularly  in  the 
second  part  which  deals  with  the  cost  of 
keeping  up  a  table.  It  is  not  an  argument 
either  for  or  against  high  prices,  but  it 
embodies  in  print  for  the  first  time  the 
methods  of  close-cutting  management 
which  a  million  of  successful  boarding- 
house  and  hotel- keepers  are  already  prac- 
tising, in  order  that  another  million  who 
are  not  successful  may  learn,  if  they  will, 
wherein  their  competitors  have  the  advant- 
age. At  the  time  when  the  following  in- 
troduction was  written,  which  was  about 
four  years  before  the  finish,  I  was  just 
setting  out,  while  indulging  a  rambling 
propensity,  to  find  out  why  it  was  that  my 
hotel  books  which  were  proving  admirably 
adapted  to  the  use  of  the  ten  hotels  of  a 
resort  town  were  voted  "too  rich  for  the 
blood"  of  the  four  hundred  boarding-houses ; 
also,  it  was  a  question  how  so  many  of  these 
houses  running  at  low  prices  are  enabled 
to  make  money  as  easily  as  the  hotels 
which  have  a  much  larger  income.  At  the 
same  time  some  statistician  published  a 
statement  that  attracted  attention  showing 
that  the  vast  majority  of  the  people  of  this 
land  have  to  live  on  an  income  of  less  than 
fifty  cents  a  day.  At  the  same  time  also  an 
English  author  published  a  little  book, 
which,  however,  I  have  not  seen  and  did 
not  need,  with  the  title  of  "How  to  live  on 
sixpence  a  day,*  (twelve  cents)  which  was 

Presumptive  evidence  that  it  could  be  done. 
n  quest  of  information  on  these  points  I 
went  around  considerably  and  found  a  good 
many  "Mrs.  Tingees"  who  were  not  keep- 
ing boarding-houses,  and  I  honor  them  for 
the  surpassing  skill  that  makes  the  fifty 
rents  a  day  do  such  wonders ;  but  the  right 
rein  was  not  struck  until  the  opportunity 
occurred  to  do  both  the  buying  and  using 
of  provisions  from  the  very  firet  meal  in  a 
Summer  Boarding  House. 

In  reference  to  unfinished  work  I  take 
the  liberty  here  of  saying  that  the  bills  of 
fare  In  this  book  with  the  quantities  and 
proportions  and  relative  cost  from  the  con- 
tinuation and  complete  illustration  of  an 
article  entitled  "The  Art  of  Catering"  in 
Hotel  Meat  Cookinff.  K  nowing  how  much 
to  cook,  how  much  to  chargi%  ho>r  to  pre- 


vent waste  ana  an  such  questions  rmitec 
there  are  carried  out  to  an  answer  in  then 
pages.  In  regard  to  the  use  of  French  names 
for  dishes  it  is  necessary  that  a  statement 
should  be  made.  A  great  reform  has  taken 
place  in  the  last  ten  years  in  the  com- 
position of  hotel  bills  of  fare,  and  the  subject 
matter  of  these  books  having  been  widely 
diffused  by  publication  in  the  hotel  news- 
papers, has  undoubtedly  had  much  to  do 
with  the  improvement  that  is  now  obsenr- 
able.  My  own  design  was,  however,  to  ex- 
plain French  terms,  give  their  origin  and 
proper  spelling,  and  to  that  end  I  had  a 
mass  of  anec(k>tes,  historical  mention  and 
other  «uch  material  collected  to  make  the 
explanations  interesting.  As  a  preliminary, 
I  began  exposing  the  absurdities  com- 
mitted by  ignorant  cooks  and  others  trying 
to  write  French,  and  before  this  had  pro- 
ceeded far  the  newspapers  took  up  and 
advocated  the  idea  that  French  terms  should 
be  abolished  altogether.  If  that  was  to  be 
the  way  the  knot  of  misspelling  and  mis- 
naming dishes  was  to  be  cut,  there  was  no 
use  for  my  dictionary  work  and  the  mate- 
rial was  thrown  away ;  I  followed  the  new 
path  and  it  proves  a  plain  and  sensible  one. 
At  the  same  time  there  is  an  aspect  of  the 
subject  which  cooks  seeking  situations 
perceive  and  editors  of  newspapers  may 
never  think  of,  and  that  is  that  there  are 
many  employers  whom  the  reform  has  not 
reached  who  will  pay  a  hundred  dollars  for 
a  cook  who  can  give  his  dishes  imposing 
foreign  names  more  willingly  than  fifty 
dollars  to  a  better  cook  who  can  only  write 
United  States.  First  class  hotels  which 
have  all  the  good  things  that  come  to 
market  avoid  French  terms.  They  that 
have  turkey  and  lamb,  chicken,  peas  and 
asparagus,  oysters  and  turtle  and  cream 
want  them  shown  up  in  the  plainest  read- 
ing; to  cover  them  up  with  French  names 
would  be  injudicious;  but  if  we  have  but 
the  same  beef  and  mutton  every  day,  the 
aid  that  a  few  ornamental  terms  can  give 
is  not  to  be  despised.  First  of  all  it  is 
requisite  that  those  who  use  such  terms 
should  know  what  they  are  intended  tt  m- 
dicate  and  how  they  should  be  spelled  and 
then  they  can  be  taken  or  left  according 
to  the  intelUgen.  judgment  of  those  ca» 
cemed  I.  W 


COOKINQ    KOR    PrOKIT. 


INTRODUCTORY. 


The  pleasing  discovery  has  recently 
been  made  by  the  writer,  in  the  pursuit 
of  a  new  business,  that  the  interest  in  the 
subject  of  cookery  is  universal  and  only 
wants  the  proper  sort  of  instructors,  the 
right  kind  of  books  and  some  way  or 
making  it  known  that  they  are  the  right 
kind  to  set  everybody  to  trying  their  capa- 
bilities in  this  at  once  the  most  useful  and 
most  ornamental  art.  True,  there  are 
cook  books  already  by  the  hundreds,  but 
that  is  not  all  that  is  required,  a  greater 
difficulty  than  to  write  and  compile  a 
book  0!i  the  subject  is  to  get  people  to 
read  it,  and  certain  pages  or  even  cer- 
tain items  that  might  be  veritable  jewels 
of  knowledge  at  times  to  the  possessors 
of  the  books  lie  there  undiscovered. 

We  have  already  tried  the  conversa- 
tional style  in  writing  about  cooking,  and 
have  reason  to  be  satisfied  with  the  re- 
sults of  the  experiment  as  far  as  it  has 
gone.  We  have  the  satisfaction  at  least 
of  finding  that  what  has  been  written  has 
been  read,  and  what  we  have  learned  of 
our  subject  has  in  that  manner  been 
made  plain  to  such  readers  as  had  need 
of  the  knowledge. 


Amongst  all  the  commendations  of  oof 
published  hotel  book,  the  "American 
Pastry  Cook,"  received  from  the  work- 
ers who  have  tried  and  know ,  and  some 
of  whom  have  even  written  gratefully  for 
the  help  ihey  found  in  it,  we  have  met 
no  harsher  adverse  criticism  than  that  of 
a  fashionable  caterer  of  prominence  in  his 
own  city,  who  said  that  it  was  too  good ; 
that  if  the  author  could  make  the  arti- 
cles in  it,  and  as  good  as  described,  he 
ought  to  be  in  a  certain  famous  hotel, 
"where  the  best  they  can  get  is  not  good 
enough  for  them." 

This  though  not  intended  for  praise, 
certainly  was  praise  of  the  highest  kind, 
for  the  book  having  the  ambitious  title 
of  American  Pastry  Cook,  and  the  vol- 
ume next  to  come  being  the  American 
Cook,  ought  not  to  show  American  cook- 
ery and  the  American  table  to  be  in  any 
repect  inferior  to  that  of  any  other  nation 
or  people  whatsoever.  That  book  does, 
and  the  whole  work  will  when  comple- 
ted contain  the  cheapest  and  best  articles 
as  well  as  the  costlier  kinds,  but  cheap- 
ness is  not  put  in  the  foreground. 

It  is  now  proposed  to  run  serially  in  the 
Hotel  Gazette  a  book  with  some  original 
features,  having  the  cost  of  each  article 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


carefully  counted  ami  all  superfluities  that 
are  eet  down  as  optional  in  other  books  left 
out  of  this  altogether.  It  is  to  be  a  book 
that  will  show  how  to  make  money  by 
cooking;  a  book  suited  to  the  wants  of 
an  immense  number  who  live  by  board- 
ing others  at  the  lowest  rate  compatible 
with  respectability  of  appearances,  and 
a  book  that  shall  be  on  the  same  plane 
of  everyday  life  with  the  people  in  the 
smaller  hotels  and  in  private  houses  that 
the  writer  meets  with  every  day.  They 
do  not  run  bills  of  fare,  nor  plan  nor 
reckon  up  their-  meals  at  from  fifty  cents 
to  one  dollar  each  person. 

A  book  of  this  character  must  recog- 
nize the  great  fact  that  there  are  infinitely 
more  women  engaged  or  interested  in 
cooking  than  men;  it  is  hardly  too  much 
to  say  that  every  woman  is  interested, 
and  they  do  not  need  to  be  told  that  they 
ought  to  know  how  to  cook,  that  ia  ac- 
knowledged in  advance,  but,  **oh  dear  I 
the  toil  1  the  dry  uninteresting  study  of 
the  incomprehensible  cook  books  1 " 

Said  a  lady  laughingly,  the  other  day 
in  a  parlor  full  of  friends — a  lady  of 
wealth  and  position,  the  daughter  of  a 
prominent  judge,  and  the  wife  of  a  lead- 
ing lawyer  of  that  section — ' '  When  we 
were  married  my  husband  said  he  would 
give  me  a  fifty-dollar  bill  if  I  would  learn 
tom;ke  good  bread.  Wc  have  been 
married  five  years  and  I  have  not  learned 
yet,  but  I  think  I  can  out  of  tliis  book. 
1  am  going  to  try  to  secure  that  green- 
biick  yet!" 

Said  another  one  the  same  day,  and 
this  one  was  extremely  poor,  the  only 
worker  in  the  family,  having  a  sick  hus- 
band— *'Now  I  find  I  can  make  things 
from  my  book  that  sell  well  in  the  win- 
dows, we  will  give  up  trying  to  keep 
boarders,  that  is  killing  us  both  and  pay- 
ing nothing,  almost." 

To  meet  the  wants  of  thousands  such, 
it  is  necessary  to  adopt  the  household 
cup  and  spoon  measures  where  measures 
are  wanted.  Curious  as  it  may  seem  to 
workmen  these  people  in  small  hotels 
find  one  of  the  greatest  difficulties  of 
life  in   having   to    weigh  and    measure, 


very  few  possess  scales  and  they  do  not 
realize  generally  that  absolute  success, 
and  success  every  time  depends  upon 
the  exact  proportions  of  their  ingredi- 
ents. As  it  is  impossible  for  us  to  give 
exact  proportions  without  a  better  stand- 
ard than  the  variable  size  of  the  cups 
in  use  we  shall  have  to  give  a  double 
set  of  measures,  one  by  the  cup  and  the 
other  by  pint  and  pound. 

Persons  who  practice  from  this  book 
can  find  which  cup  holds  half  a  pint, 
which  is  half  a  pound  of  water,  and  the 
standard,  and  always  using  the  same 
can  soon  learn  to  measure  as  many 
ounces  as  they  want  in  it  by  observing 
the  difference  of  the  specific  gravity  of 
each  article  used.     Thus: 


No.  1— Cup  and  Spoon  Measure. 


A  CUP  means  the  common  size  of 
white  cup  generally  used  in  hotels  and 
restaurants  that  holds  -^  pint  of  liquid. 

Wateb. — A  pint  is  a  pound,  a  cup  is 
J   pint,  therefore  a  citp  of  water  is  8  oz. 

Milk. — A  cup  of  milk  is  J  pint,  or  8 
oz. 

Eggs  by  Measure. — A  cup  of  yolks 
or  whites  or  of  uoth  mixed  is  ^  pound, 
equal  in  weight  to  five  large  eggs.  It 
takes  9  whites  to  till  a  cup.  It  takes 
13  yolks  to  fill  a  cup.  When  you  have 
yolks  left  over,  it  is  near  enough  to  count 
2  yolks  equal  to  one  egg,  or  a  cup  of 
yolks  as  good  as  7  eggs  because  richer 
than  whole  ones.  Water  should  be 
added  to  them  to  increase  the  bulk  and 
make  them  capable  of  being  beaten 
light. 

Eggs  by  Count. — 10  eggs  average 
a  pound :  5  eggs  fill  a  cup.  When  there 
are  duck,  goose,  turkey,  bantam  or 
guinea-fowl  eggs  to  be  used,  iustead  of 
counting  they  can  be  measured  after 
breaking  for  cooking  purposes  by  the 
above  rule — i  e,  a  cup  of  eggs  is  equal  to 
5  ordinary  hen's  eggs. 

Butter. — A  cup  of  cold  butter  is  7^ 
ounces,  if  pressed  in  quite  solid.  A  cup 
of  ibelted    butter  is  J    oz   lighter.     It  is 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


usually  near  pnough  for  cooking  to  call 
a  cup  J  pound.  Butter  size  of  an  egg  is 
1^  ounces. 

Labd. — Same  as  butter. 

Sugar. — A  level  cup  of  granulated 
sugar  is  7  ounces — 2  cups  is  2  ounces 
less  than  a  pound.  Although  sugar  by 
the  grain  is  heavier  than  water,  and  will 
sink  instantly  the  air  spaces  between  the 
grains  make  a  cupful  weigh  less  than  so 
much  liquid.  ^  pound  of  granulated 
sugar  is  a  cup  rounded  up.  The  pow- 
dered sugar  that  is  known  as  fine  gran- 
ulated weighs  the  same,  icing  sugar  or 
flomr  of  sugar  is  lighter,  a  cup  is  but  6 
ounces.  All  that  can  be  scooped  up  in 
a  cup  out  of  a  barrel  of  any  grade  weighs 
9  ounces.     Brown   sugar  a  level   cup  is 

6  ounces.  Up  in  the  mountains  the  cake 
receipts  people  have  been  used  to,  fail. 
It  is  all  because  of  the  sugar.  So  much 
sugar  cannot  be  used  at  great  elevations 
as  at  sea-level,  hence  the  reason  for  be- 
ing particular  about  the  weights. 

Molasses. — A  cup  of  thick  molasses 
weighs  12  ounces — that  is  three-quar- 
ters of  a  pound — half  as  much  as  water 
and  5  ounces  more  than  so  much  sugar. 
Thin  syrups,  however,  do  not  weigh 
quite  so  much. 

Flour. — A  level  cup  of  flour  is  4 
ounces.  A  cup  heaped  up  with  all  that 
can  be  dipped  with   it  out  of  a  barrel  is 

7  ounces,  nearly  twice  as  much  as  the 
level.  A  quart  of  flour  just  rounded 
over  is  a  pound. 

Bread-crumbs. — A  cup  of  bread  is  4 
ounces  pressed  in  rather  solid.  A 
pound  of  bread  is  a  pressed-in  quart. 

Corn-meal. — A  cup  of  corn-meal  is  5 
ounces,  3  rounded  cups  are  a  pound,  or 
a  pound  of  corn-meal  is  a  little  less  than 
a  level  quart. 

Oatmeal. — A  level  cup  of  oatmeal  U 
6  ounces.  All  that  can  be  dipped  up 
with  a  cup  weighs  7  ounces — nearly  ^ 
pound. 

Corn  Starch. — A  level  cup  of  starch 
flour  or  cooking  starch  is  G  ounces,  the 
same  as  corn-meal.  All  that  can  be 
heaped  in  a  cup  weighs  7  ounces. 


Farina. — The  same  as  starch. 

Rice. — A  level  cup  weighs  7  ounces 
All  that  can  be  heaped  in  a  cup  weighs 
9  ounces. 

Light  Bread  Dough. — A  rounded 
cup  is  ^  pound. 

A  Basting-spoon  means  the  pressed 
iron  spoon  about  half  as  long  as  one's 
arm.  The  bowl  of  most  of  them  of  dif- 
ferent lengths  of  handle  holds  the  same. 
Six  basting-spoons  of  liquid  are  -J  pint  or 
a  cup.  It  is  the  most  useful  measure  for 
molasses.  A  full  spoon  of  molasses  is  2 
ounces.  A  basting  spoon  of  melted  but- 
ter or  lard  not  quite  full  is  1  ounce,  6 
spoons  brim-full  will  be  -^  pound  of 
butter. 


A  Table-spoon  14  times  full  is  a  cup 
or  ^  pint  of  water,''2  tablespoons  of  mel- 
ted butter  is  1  ounce.  It  is  near  enough 
to  count  a  tablespoonful  ^  ounce  of  any 
fluid  except  molasses  of  which  a  table- 
spoon may  be  made  to  take,  up  an  ounce. 
A  heaping  tablespoon  of  sugar  is  1  ounce, 
G  or  7  will  fill  a  cup.  A  heaping  table- 
spoon of  starch  is  1  ounce,  4  will  fill  a 
cup — starch  can  be  heaped  so  much 
higher  than  sugar.  A  moderately  heaped 
tablespoon  of  flour  is  1  ounce,  three  fully 
heaped  will  fill  a  cup — 4  ounces. 

Of  eggs  broken  in  a  cup,  3  tablespoons 
are  equal  to  1  qq^. 


A  teaspoon  is  ^  a  table  spoon.  When 
baking  powder,  cream  tartar,  sugar, 
starch  and  the  like  is  to  be  measured  a 
rounded  teaspoon  is  meant.  It  is  near 
enough  in  most  cases  to  count  a  tea- 
spoonful  ^  ounce. 


In  the  absence  of  such  a  table  as  the 
foregoing  ready  prepared  we  have  found 
such  questions  the  most  perplexing  of 
any  that  have  been  given  us  to  an- 
swer. It  looks  now  as  if  any  of  those 
who  are  opposed  to  scales  and  weights, 
might  so  well  acquaint  themselves  with 
the  capacities  of  one  cup  as  to  become 
accurate  cooks,  and  safe  from  the  dis- 
couraging effects  of  culinary  failures. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


SOME   ARTICLES    FOR    THE   SHOW 
CASE. 


2— Angel  Food  or  White  Sponge  Cake 


WHITEST  AND  FINEST  CAKE  MADE. 


5  whites  of  eggs — or  six  if  small. 

5  ounces  fine  granulated  sugar — ^  cup 
large. 

2 J  ounces  flour — J  cup  large. 

1  rounded  teaspoon  cream  tartar. 

1  teaspoon  vanilla  or  lemon  extract. 

Mix  the  cream  tartar  in  tte  flour  by 
sifting  them  together.  Whip  the  whites 
firm,  put  in  the  sugar  and  beat  a  few 
seconds,  add  the  flavoring,  then  stir  in 
the  flour  lightly  without  beatiug.  As 
soon  as  mixed  put  the  cake  in  the  oven. 
It  needs  careful  baking  like  a  meringue, 
in  a  slack  oven  and  should  stay  in  from 
20  to  30  minutes.  A  small,  deep,  smooth 
mold  is  the  best  and  should  not  be 
greased.  When  the  cake  is  done  turn 
it  upside  down  and  leave  it  to  get  cold 
in  the  mold  before  trying  to  take  it  out. 

When  you  have  pure  cream  tartar 
from  a  drug  store  use  only  half  as  much 
as  of  the  common  lest  the  cake  taste 
of  it. 


3— Plain  Glaze  or  Icing  for  the  Above. 

4  tablespoons  powdered  sugar. 

1  white  of  an  egg. 

Put  the  sugar  in  a  cup  and  mix  it  with 
the  white  ot  egg.  As  soon  as  the  sugar 
is  fairly  wetted  it  is  ready.  It  dries 
pearl  white;  takes  but  a  minute  to  make. 
Spread  it  all  over  the  bottom  and  sides 
of -'angelfood." 

Cost  of  material  15c.,  size  1  quart; 
weight  15  oz. 

The  rule  for  the  foregoing  in  large 
quantities  is  an  ounce  of  sugar  to  each 
ounce  of  white  of  eggs  and  half  as  much 
flour.  Those  who  deal  in  it  largely  say 
it   is,  or  at  least   was  before  they  got   it 


into  a  regular  routine,  the  most  trouble- 
some cake  they  made,  the  tendency  be- 
ing always  to  fall  in  the  middle.  They 
now  use  plain  deep  molds  having  centre 
tubes  of  unusually  large  size.  There  i» 
no  difficulty  with  small  cakes.  But  the 
whites  must  be  whiipped  quite  dry  in  & 
cold  place. 

4— Lady-Fingers. 

7  ounces  granulated  sugar — 1  cup. 

4  eggs. 

3  tablespoons  water. 

6  ounces  flour — 1  heaping  cup. 

1  ounce  sugar  to  dredge. 

Separate  the  eggs,  the  whites  in  a 
bowl,  the  yolks  in  the  mixing  pan.  Put 
the  sugar  to  the  yolks  and  stir  up,  then 
add  the  water  and  beat  with  a  bunch  of 
wire  10  minutes.  Have  the  flour  ready. 
Whip  the  whites  with  the  wire  g^^ 
whisk  till  they  are  firm  enough  to  bear 
up  an  e^^.  Mix  the  flour  in  the  yolks 
and  stir  in  the  white  of  eggs  last. 

Put  the  batter  into  a  large  paper 
comet  with  the  point  clipped  off",  or  into 
a  lady-finger  sack  and  tube,  and  press 
out  finger  lengths  in  regular  order  on  a 
sheet  of  maniila  paper.  When  the  sheet 
is  full  dredge  fine  sugar  over,  catch  up 
two  corners  of  the  sheet  and  shake  off 
the  surplus,  and  lay  it  on  a  baking-pan. 
Bake  a  light  yellow-brown  in  about  6 
minutes.  Take  off  by  wetting  the  paper 
under  side  and  stick  the  two  cakes  to- 
gether   while  they  are  still  moist. 

Cost  of  material  14c.;  number  of 
cakes  6  dozen  pairs,  weight  18  oz. 

5— Star    Kisses. 


8  ounces  fine  granulated  sugar — round- 
ed cup. 

4  whites  of  eggs. 

1  teaspoon  flavoring. 

Whip  the  whites  with  a  bunch  of  wire, 
in  a  cold  place  until  they  are  firm  enough 
to  bear  up  an  egg,  add  the  sugar  and 
flavor  and  beat  a  few  seconds  longer. 
Put  the  meringue  paste  thus  made  into 
a  sack  and  star-pointed  tube  or  else  into 
a  stiff  paper  comet  having  the  point  cut 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


like  saw  teeth  and  press  ont  portions  size 
of  walnuts  on  to  pans  slightly  greased 
and  then  wiped  clean.  Bake  in  a  very 
slack  oven  about  10  minutes  or  till  the 
kisses  are  of  a  light  fawn  color  and 
swelled  partially  hollow.  They  slip  off 
€asily  whea  cold. 

Cost  of  material  10c;  number  of  cakes 
6  doz. ,  or  according  to  size. 


6— Fairy     Gingerbread, 
Wafers. 


or     Ginger 


This  appears  to  have  originated  in 
Boston  where  it  is  held  in  high  favor  and 
it  is  a  sort  of  social  duty  to  know  how  to 
make  it.     No  eggs  needed. 

1  cup  butter — 7  oz. 

2  cups  light  brown  sugai — 13  oz. 
'         1  cup  milk — }t  pint. 

4  cups  flour — 1  pound. 

1  teaspoon  ground  ginger. 

Warm  the  butter  and  sugar  slightly 
and  rub  them  together  to  a  cream.  Add 
the  milk,  ginger  and  flour.  It  makes 
a  paste  like  very  ttiick  cream.  Spread  a 
thin  coating  of  butter  on  the  baking  pans, 
let  it  get  quite  cold  and  set,  then  spread 
the  paste  on  it  no  thicker  than  a  visiting 
card,  barely  coveriug  the  pan  from  sight. 
Bake  in  a  slack  oven,  and  when  done 
cut  the  sheets  immediately  into  the  shape 
and  size  of  common  cards.  This  is  also 
known  as  euchre  gingerbread.  la  served 
in  packs  and  eaten  between  games. 

Do  it  up  in  paper  packages  to  prevent 
breakage,  with  one  sheet  outside. 

Cost  of  material  23c;  weight  2 J 
pounds*  cakes  innumerable. 

7— Jelly  Roll. 

1  cup  sugar — 7  ounces. 
4  eggs. 

1  cup  water  small. 

2  cups  flour — 9  ounces. 

1  large  teaspoon  baking  powder. 

■J  cup  fruit  jelly  or  thin  marmalade. 

Separate  the  eggs,  the  whites  in  a 
good-sized  bowl,  the  yolks  in  the  mixing 
|)an.     Put   the  sugar   to  the   yolks,  stir 


up,  then  add  the  water  and  beat  up  till 
they  are  light  and  thick.  jNIix  the  pow- 
der in  the  flour,  whip  the  whites  to  a 
very  firm  froth.  Whftn  they  are  ready 
stir  the  flour  into  the  yolk  mixture  and 
mix  in  the  whipped  whites  last. 

Cut  sheets  of  blank  paper  the  size  of 
your  baking  pans,  spread  the  batter  on 
them,  without  previous  greasing,  as  thin 
as  can  be,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven 
about  6  minutes.  Brush  over  the  un- 
der side  of  the  paper  with  water,  the 
cake  laid  flat  on  the  table,  and  take  it 
off.  Spread  the  cake  with  thin  jelly 
and  roll  up. 

It  makes  it  rounder  and  smoother  to 
roll  it  in  a  fresh  sheet  of  paper  and  keep 
it  so  until  wanted,  care  being  taken  that 
the  cake  is  sufficiently  baked  not  to 
stick.  It  shoul  I  be  observed  that  this 
and  number  4  can  both  be  used  for  the 
same  purposes,  this  is  the  cheaper.' 

Cost  of  material  19  or  20c. ;  weight 
over  1^  pounds;  light  and  large. 

8— Cocoanut  Gems,  Cakes  or  Caramels. 


These  very  quickly  and  easily  made 
cream  candy  drops  we  learned  to  consid- 
er worth  having  in  our  showcase  through 
observing  how  rapidly  they  sold  at  two 
rival  fruit  and  confectionary  stands  in  a 
western  city.  They  were  freshly  stacked 
up  hi  sight  close  to  the  sidewalk  every 
morning,  aboiit  a  bushel  in  each  place  as 
it  seemed,  and  were  all  or  nearly  all  sold 
by  night.  They  may  be  found  in  most 
confectionaries  under  different  names. 

1  pound  granulated  sugar — 2  cups. 

8  ounces  grated  cocoanut  2  cups. 

J  cup  of  water. 

Set  the  sugar  and  water  over  the  fire 
in  a  small,  bright  kettle  and  boil  about 
five  minutes,  or  till  the  symp  bubbles  up 
and  ropes  from  the  spoon,  and  do  not 
stir  it.  Then  put  in  the  cocoanut,  stir 
to  mix,  and  begin  at  once  and  drop  the 
candy  by  tablespoonfuls  on  a  buttered 
baking  pan.  The  dry  dessicated  cocoa- 
nut  is  the  easier  kind  to  work  with. 
With  ihe  moist,  fresh   graten  more  time 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


shonld  be  given  for  the  sugar  to  boil  to 
the  candy  point. 

Leave  a  little  in  the  kettle  and  color 
it  pink  with  a  iQw  drops  of  cochineal, 
adding  water  if  necessary .  Drop  a  spot 
of  the  pink  on  each  white  cake , 

Cost  of  material  20  or  22c.  Number 
according  to  size.  They  sell  at  2Jc  each. 

9— Pound  Fruit  Cake. 


Yellow  but  spotted  with  fruit. 

The  staple  every  day  sort  of  plum 
cake.  The  fruit  does  not  sink  to  the 
bottom  in  this  mixture. 

14  ounces  sugar — 2  cups. 

14  ounces  butter — 2  cups. 

11  eggs. 

18  ounces  flour — 4  rounded  cups. 

Mix  the  above  the  same  as  pound 
cake,  then  add  to  it, 


1  pound  raisins. 
1  pound  currants. 
8  ounces  citron. 

1  teaspoonful  baking  powder. 

Use  seedless  raisins.  Nothing  is  good 
made  full  of  raisin  seeds.  Mix  the  fruit 
together  and  dust  it  with  flour  before 
stirring  it  into  the  batter.  The  cakes 
require  ^rom  1  to  IJ  hours  to  bake. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  mixed  ground  spices, 
cinnamon,  mace,  and  alspice,  can  be 
added  to  the  above  if  so  desired.  It 
changes  the  appearance  of  the  cake, 
however,  and  renders  it  perhaps  less 
saleable.  But  either  way  it  is  an  excel- 
lent cake. 

Cost  of  material — sugar  10,  butter 
20,  eggs  18,  flour  and  powder  4,  raisins 
20,  cuiTants  10,  citron  15 — 97c. ;  weight 
over  six  pounds,  size  a  five  pint  cake 
mold  full. 


Preserving  Corn  with  Salt 


Cut  green  corn  oflTthe  cob  and  pack 
it  in  jars  in  layers  with  salt  enough 
between  each  layer  to  form  a  brine 
that  will  cover  the  corn.  Place  a 
plate  or  board  on  top  of  the  corn, 
cover  the  jar  and  keep  in  a  cool 
place. 

When  to  be  used  soak  the  required 
quantity  in  fresh  water  for  24  hours, 
changing  the  water  once  or  twice, 
then  boil  and  season  with  milk  and 
butter,  or  make  into  corn  pudding,  or 
fritters. 

The  above  method  used  to  be  uni- 
versally followed  before  canning,  be- 
came 80  common.  The  corn  is  not  so 
well-flavored,  yet  serves  a  purpose  in 
some  places. 


Kossuth  Cakes. 


Make  sponge  drops  large  and  thick, 
hollow  out  the  bottoms,  fill  the  hollow 
with  whipped  cream  sweetened  and 
flavored,  and  place  two  together.  Dip 
them  ill  melted  sweet  chocolate  or 
chocolate  icin^  and  place  on  an  oiled 


dish  to  dry.  They  are  a  Baltimore 
specialty,  are  generally  made  to  order, 
only  for  parties;  the  price  about  a 
dollar  a  dozen. 


Cheese  Fondue,  a  la  Savarln. 


It  is  one  form  of  cheese  omelet. 
Take  equal  weights  of  cheese  and  eggs 
and  one  fourth  as  much  butter— that 
would  be  3  eggs,  4  ounces  cheese, 
butter  size  of  a  guinea  egg.  Grate 
the  cheese,  mix  the  butter  with  it  in  a 
pan  over  the  fire,  break  in  the  eggs, 
season  with  pepper,  scramble  all  to- 
gether same  as  scrambled  eggs,  but 
not' too  hard,  as  the  cheese  becomes 
tough  and  ropy  if  cooked  too  much. 


Cheese  Ramequins. 


Roll  out  pie  paste,  cover  it  with 
grated  cheese,  fold  up  and  roll  out 
twice  more.  Cutout  like  thin  biscuits, 
wash  over  with  egg  and  bake.  For 
luncheons  and  teas. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


THE  LUNCH  COUNTER. 


10 — Alamode     Beef    Soup. 


There  is  a  well  established  favorite  soup 
sold  in  the  large  cities  under  this  name; 
whether  any  relation  to  beef-a-la-mode 
or  not  makes  no  difference  whatever.  It 
is  especially  adapted  for  a  lunch,  or  to 
be  made  a  meal  of,  being  simply  made 
thick  and  of  course  nutritious  with  beef 
boiled  to  shreds  in  it. 

To  make  12  quarts  soup  take, 

5  gallons  water. 

5  pounds  soup  beef. 

Shanks  and  bones,  all  the  water  will 
cover. 

An  onion,  a  carrot,  a  turnip. 

12  cloves,  1  bayleaf. 

1  tablespoon  salt. 

1  tea  spoonful  black  pepper. 

Break  up  the  shanks  and  bones,  wash 
off  in  cold  water,  put  them  into  the  boil- 
er with  the  meat  not  touching  the  bot- 
tom, boil  gently  for  6  hours,  then  take 
out  the  piece  of  beef.  Add  to  the  stock 
the  cloves  and  bayleaf  and  continue 
boiling  until  the  water  is  reduced  to 
three  gallons,  and  the  remaining  meat  is 
well  dissolved,  which  may  be  three  or 
four  hours  longer.  Strain  off  the  stock 
through  a  gravy  strainer,  skim  free  from 
fat,  set  it  on  the  fire  again  in  the  soup 
pot;  cut  the  vegetables  or  chop  them  and 
throw  them  in,  and  mince  the  piece  of 
beef  without  any  fat  and  add  that  like- 
wise. Boil  4  hour,  thicken  slightl^y  with 
flour-and-water,  season  with  the  salt  and 
pepper  and  skim  off  the  particles  of  fat 
that  rise  from  tEe  minced  beef.  It  is 
thick  with  meat  and  minced  vegeta- 
bles. 


It  is  not  much  detriment  to  such  a 
soup  to  have  the  fat  remaining  in  it, 
exce])t  the  crumbs  of  fat  meat  that  rise 
from  the  mince  and  spoil  its  smooth  ap- 
pearance, but  it  is  needed  for  other  uses 
in  the  kicchen. 


To  make  soup  eveiy  day  as  easily  as 
possible  there  must  be  a  regular  time 
for  setting  on  the  first  boiler — the  stock 
boiler — and  a  routine  something  like  this: 

lu  the  morning  when  preparing  break- 
fast and  dinner,  get  the  soup  pieces  of 
meat  together.  After  dinner  as  soon  as 
possible  set  the  boiler  fall  of  these  pieces 
and  the  complement  of  water  on  the 
range  and  let  it  slowly  simmer  as  long 
as  there  is  a  fire  at  night.  Then  the 
last  thing  at  night,  if  warm  weather, 
strain  off  the  stock  and  set  in  a  cool 
place  till  morning.  But  if  cold  weather 
and  the  stock  cannot  spoil  in  the  boiler 
during  the  night  it  will  be  better  to  leave 
it  and  draw  it  off  quite  clear  before  the 
morning  fire  is  started  undei  it. 

Good  soup  can  be  made  by  setting  the 
prepared  boiler  on  early  in  the  morning 
and  drawing  off  the  stock  at  about  11 
o'clock,  but  it  is  not  the  best  way  for 
obvious  reasons. 


Cost  of  material — rough  bsef  at  5, 
bones  at  2,  vegetables  etc,  5,  12c  per 
pound  gaU. 

11— Cold  Baked  Ham. 


Scrape  and  carefully  shave  off  the 
outside  of  a  ham  and  saw  off  the  rank 
end  of  the  knuckle  bone.  It  is  an  im- 
provement to  soak  the  ham  in  water  12 
hours  before  cooking. 

Boil  it  in  the  salt  meat  boiler  from  2J 
to  3J  hours,  according  to  size.  Take 
out,  remove  the  rind,  trim  a  little  and 
bake  it  brown  and  shining — about  ^ 
hour. 

12— Roast  Ham  Bread-crumbed. 


Boil  and  trim  the  ham  as  heretofore 
directed.  Mix  3  cupfuls  of  the  sifted 
crumbs  of  dried  and  crushed  bread  with 
1  cupful  of  grated  cheese.  Brown  the 
ham  in  the  oven  only  very  slightly, 
take  it  out  and  press  upon  it  all  the 
bread  crumb  mixture  that  can  be  made 
to  stick.  Put  back  in  the  pan  and 
brown   it  in  the  oven   carefully  all   over 


8 


SAN  FRANCISGO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


alike,  basting  the  dry  places  with  a  little 
clear  fat  from  the  pan.  The  cheese  mixed 
with  the  crumbs  acts  as  a  cement  for 
the  coating,  gives  a  rich  color  and  a  good 
flavor.  A  ham  done  this  way  is  good 
either  for  hot  or  cold. 


Cost — A  16  pound  ham  at  12Jc 
$2,00.  Loss  by  shrinkage,  rind,  bone, 
waste  6  pounds,  10  pounds  nett  salea- 
ble ham  for  $2,00  costs  20c  per  pound. 
1  pound  of  ham  makes  from  4  to  8  plates, 
or  12  sandwiches. 


13— Fried   Oysters. 

1  dozen  oysters. 

1  cup  cracker-meal  or  crumbs. 

■J  cup  milk  batter. 

Lard  to  fry. 

Lemon  to  garnish. 

Spread  the  oysters  on  a  clean  napkin 
and  wipe  them  dry. 

^iix  in  a  small  bowl  2  rounded  table- 
spoons flour  with  6  tablespoons  milk, 
gradually  free  from  lumps  and  like 
cream.  Be  particular  to  measure;  and 
use  milk  because  it  takes  on  a  finer  color 
in  frying  than  if  water  is  used .  Dip  the 
oysters  into  the  batter  then  into  the 
cracker-meal  or  bread  crumbs  and  let 
them  lie  well  covered  for  a  while.  If  so 
preferred  double  bread  them  by  dipping 
the  second  time  in  the  batter  and  then 
in  the  cracker-meal  again. 

Fry  in  hot  lard  about  3  or  4  minutes 
or  until  brown.  Drain  in  a  strainer, 
serve  heaped  in  a  hot  dish  and  quarters 
of  lemon  at  each  end. 


14 — Fried  Oysters  in  Haste. 

Where  there  is  not  time  to  dry  the 
oysters  take 

6  tablespoons  cracker- meal. 

2  large  tablespoons  flour. 

Some  oyster  liquor  in  a  small  pan. 

Mix  the  cracker-meal  and  flour  thor- 
oughly together  dry.  Dip  the  oysters 
out  of  their  own  liquor  into  the  meal,  out 
of  the  meal  into  the  extra  pan  of  oyster 
liquor  and  out  of  that  into  the  meal  again. 
Do    not  rub    the  oysters  as    the   bread- 


ing will  not  stick  a  second  time,  but  press 
them  in  singly.  Fiy  brown  in  3  or  4 
minutes,  garnish  with  parsley  and  lemon. 

Cost  of  material — with  bulk  oysters 
at  60c  per  quart  of  4  doz.  oysters  15, 
breading  1,  lemon  1,  17c.  Lard  to  fiy, 
2  oz  for  each  dozen  oysters  either  con- 
sumed or  damaged  2c — total  19c. 

15 — Oyster  Fritters. 


Mix  one-fourth  flour  with  three-fourths 
cracker  meal  dry,  and  have  some  oyster 
liquor  or  milk  or  both  mixed  in  a  pan. 
Put  in  a  good  pinch  of  salt.  Dip  the 
oysters  out  of  their  own  liquor  into  tho 
mixed  meal,  out  of  that  into  the  oyster 
liquor  then  into  the  meal  again,  and  do 
80  twice  more,  giving  the  oysters  4 
coats.  Fry  in  hot  lard  crisp  and  brown 
in  5  minutes.  Serve  in  circular  order  in 
a  dish  and  garnish.  These  keep  the 
perfect  shape  of  the  oyster  and  the  oys- 
ter flavor  in  the  crust  much  better  than 
if  made  by  dipping  into  thick  fritter 
batter. 

Cost — the  same  as  fried  oysters. 

16— Oysters  Sauteed  in  Butter. 

Mix  one-fourth  flour  with  three-fourths 
cracker  meal  (or  sifted  crumbs  of  dried 
breadj  dry.  Dip  the  oysters  out  of  their 
own  liquor  into  the  meal,  press  down 
without  rubbing  and  give  them  a  good 
coating. 

Put  1  ounce  of  butter  into  a  frying- 
pan  and  melt  it.  Lay  one  dozen  oysters 
in  close  enough  to  stick  together  by  the 
edges.  Fry  carefully  as  butter  easily 
bums,  imtil  the  under  side  is  nicely 
browned,  then  lay  a  plate  upside  down 
upon  them,  turn  over  and  slide  them 
back  into  the  pan  again  and  brown  the 
other  side.  Serve  them  still  caked  to- 
gether on  a  hot  plate. 

Cost  of  material — oysters  15,  bread- 
ing and  lemon  1,  butter  2, 18c  per  doz. 

17— Oyster  Pies— Individual.. 

These  are  covered  pies  of  the  usual 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


well-known  form  containing  from  12  to 
18  email  oysters.  They  are  served  in  a 
deep  plate  with  a  soup  ladleful  of  oyster- 
stew  liquor  poured  around.  The  pies 
are  about  the  size  of  a  large  saucer. 

To  make  10  such  pies  take  for  the 
crust, 

20  ounces  flour — 5  cups. 

8  ounces  lard  or  suet — 1  rounded  cup. 

1  cup  water. 

1  teaspoon  salr. 

Rub  the  lard  into  the  flour  dry,  pour 
the  water  into  the  middle  and  stir  up  to 
soft  dough.  Spread  the  flour  that  re- 
mains un wetted  on  the  table,  pat  the 
dough  smooth  in  it,  roll  it  out  2  or  3 
times  and  fold  it  up  and  it  is  ready  for 
use.  Cut  pieces,  roll  out  very  thin  and 
cover  10  pie  pans. 

Then  put  into  each  18  small  oysters 
and  the  liquor  belonging.  Dredj2:e  in  a 
little  salt  and  pepper  and  a  little  dust  of 
flour  rubbed  through  a  seive  with  the 
fingers.  Put  a  top  crust  on  and  cut  oflF 
the  surplus  by  pressing  the  hands  against 
the  edge  of  the  pie  pan  all  around.  Bake 
about  10  minutes,  serve  hot  as  above 
stated. 


Cost  of  material — flour  3,  lard  7,  cost 
of  crust  10c.  With  bulk  small  oysters 
at  50c  per  quart  of  15  dozen — oysters 
50c.  3  pints  milk  and  oyster  liquor  sea- 
sonrd  12c — total  10  pies  72c — say,  7Jc 
each. 


18— Oyster    Pot-Pie. 


Cells  well   in  the  restaurant. — 

2  quarts  small  oysters. 
1  ounce  butter. 

1  cup  milk. 
Saltaud  pepper. 

Crust  made  of 
1  pound  flour — 4  cups. 

3  teaspoons  baking  powder, 
1  cup  water. 

Drain  the  oysters  pretty  well  from 
their  liquor  and  put  them  into  a  3-quart 
britjht  milk  pan.  Mix  the  crust  like 
making  biscuit,  but  without  shortening, 
and  have  it  as  soft  as  possible  to  be  han- 


dled. Pat  it  out  flat  with  the  hands 
and  cover  the  oysters.  Bake  15  min- 
utes and  thon  introduce  at  one  side  a 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper — ateaspoon- 
ful  of  each — a  small  piece  of  butter,  a 
cup  of  milk  and  a  bastingspoon  of  flour- 
and-water  thickening.  Stir  about,  re- 
place the  piece  of  dough  that  was  raised 
up  and  bake  a  short  time  longer.  The 
crust  should  be  as  light  as  a  sponge  and 
lightly  browned,  but  the  oysters  not 
cooked  hard. 


Cost  of  material- — with  bulk  smaU 
oysters  at  $180  gall. — oysters  90, butter 
2,  milk  2,  flour  3,  powder  2.  seasonings 
1,  $1,00.  Contains  about  16  doz  oys- 
ters, or  according  to  grade,  and  crust  to 
correspond. 

19— Chow-Chow— Domestic. 


12  large  green  tomatoes. 

12  cucumbers. 

12  onions. 

1  head  cabbage. 

There  should  be  about  twice  as  much 
cabbage  when  all  are  chopped  as  of  any 
one  of  the  others. 

Chop  them  small,  mix,  sprinkle  with 
salt  and  let  stand  over  night. 

Then  drain  off  and  cover  with  weak 
vinegar  and  let  stand  2  days.  Drain 
a£ain  and  add  to  it 

3  quarts  cider  vinegar. 

1  cup  grated  horseradish. 

4  ounces  white  mustard  seed. 
•J  ounce  celery  seed. 

1^  ounces  ground  cinnamon. 

2  tablespoons  turmeric. 

4  tablespoons  dry  mustard. 

■J  pound  sugar. 

4  green  peppers  minced. 

When  well  mixed  set  it  on  the  range 
in  a  bright  kettle  and  boil  up.  When 
cold  it  is  ready  for  use.  The  above 
makes  something  over  2  gallons.  It  is 
a  fine  relish  for  the  lunch  t,able.  Keep 
in  glass  jars. 

Cost — too  variable  for  estimate.  To 
people  with  gardens  very  little.  Prob- 
able average  50c  per  gall. 


10 


SAN  FRANOISCO  HOTEL  GjiZETTE'S 


20— Plain   Pie  Paste. 


1  level  cup  lard — 7  ounces. 

4  level  cups  flour — 1  pound. 

1  teaspoon  Bait. 

Water  to  mix — %  cup. 

•Drop  the  lard  into  the  flour  and  rub 
them  together  until  well  mixed.  Pour  a 
•small  cup  of  cold  water  in  the  middle  and 
stir  around  gradually.  Take  the  paste 
out  while  quite  soft,  pat  out  smooth  on 
the  table  with  plenty  of  flour  under;  roll 
it  out,  fold  up  in  three  roll,  out  and  fold 
tip  twice  more,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 
The  rollinpj  and  folding  makes  the  paste 
flaky  and  better  than  it  otherwise  would 
be,  although  this  is  not  intended  to  be 
red  puff  paste. 

21— Suet  Pie  Paste. 


2  pressed  in  cups  minced  suet. 

4  cups  flour. 

1  teaspoon  salt. 

Warm  water  to  mix. 

Make  the  suet  as  fine  as  possible  by 
first  shaving  in  thin  slices  and  then  minc- 
ing very  small  with  a  little  flour  mixed 
in  while  mincing,  to  prevent  sticking  to 
the  knife.  Rub  the  suet  into  the  dry 
flour,  add  salt,  mix  up  gradually  from 
the  middle  with  water  slightly  warm. 
Take  the  dough  out  of  the  pan  and  roll 
out  to  a  sheet  on  the  table,  fold  over  in 
three  and  roll  out  twice  more.  Pie  paste 
made  as  above,  then  allowed  to  become 
very  cold  and  rolled  twice  again  is  al- 
most as  good  as  puff  paste  in  flakiness. 

The  time  may  be  shortened  by  having 
the  suet,  pretty  well  chopped,  in  a  warm 
room  to  poften,  then  pounding  it  smooth, 
throwing  it  into  the  flour  and  mixing  up 
and  rolling  out  without  stopping  to  rub 
it  in  the  flour  first,  which  is  a  tedious 
operation. 

Cost  of  material — average  for  both 
suet  and  lard  12c;  makes  3  or  4  covered 
pies  large  enough  to  quarter,  if  rolled 
tbiD. 


22— The  Covered    Lemon   Pie  of  the 
Great  Bakeries. 


NO      EGGS      NEEDED. 


8  ounces  sugar — 1  large  cup. 

3  ounces  flour — 1  small  cup. 

1  lemon. 

1  pint  water — 2  cups. 

Grate  rind  of  lemon  into  a  small  sauce- 
pan, using  a  tin  grater  and  scraping  off 
with  a  fork  what  adheres.  Squeeze  in 
the  juice,  scrape  out  the  pulp,  chop  it, 
put  in  the  water  and  boil.  Mix  the  su- 
gar and  flour  together  dry  and  stir  them 
into  the  boiling  liquor.  When  half  thick- 
ened take  it  off  and  let  finish  in  the  pies. 

The  above  makes  two  large  pies  or 
three  small.  It  is  necessary  to  be  par- 
ticular to  get  the  right  amount  of  flour. 
The  mixture  is  pale  yellow  from  the  rind 
and  sugar. 

Put  top  crust  as  well  as  bottom  on 
these  pies. 

Cost  of  material  10c — pies  each  8  or 
9  cents.     Cut  in  4. 


There  are  some  immense  bakeries  in 
the  city  of  Chicago  and  one  of  them  is 
peculiar  in  that  it  turns  out  nothing 
but  pies.  It  has  grown  up  to  its  pres- 
ent dimensions  from  being  a  mere  corner 
pie  shop,  and  even  yet  one  of  the  firm, 
the  working  partner,  bakes  all  the  pies 
himself,  indeed  he  says  that  so  close  is 
the  margin  of  profit  in  the  business  that 
when  once  he  was  laid  up  by  a  spell  of 
sickness  the  loss  during  his  absence 
amounted  to  about  three  hundred  dol- 
lars per  week.  Hotel  keepers  and  oth- 
ers who  have  to  hire  mefficient  help  and 
who  see  things  burnt  up  and  wasted 
will  understand  how  that  might  be;  and 
then  there  is  the  important  matter  of 
Imying  cheaply  and  well. 

The  people  of  the  present  time  are  ac- 
tuated by  all  sorts  of  queer  desires  and 
ambitions.  Some  want  to  go  around 
the  world  in  eighty  days,  some  want  to 
walk  a  thousand  miles  in  so  many 
hours,  and  the   grand  goal   in  view  that 


COOKING  FOB  PROFIT. 


11 


the  owners  of  this  great  pie  factory  have 
set  themselves    the  task  of  reaching   or 
die  in  the  attempt  is  the  production  of  a 
million  pies  in  a  year.  Two  years  ago  the 
numoer    turned    out  in   the     course   of 
twelve    months    had    reached   to  eight 
hundred  and  thirty  thousand,  and  it  did 
seem  as    though   the  remaining   trifle  of 
one  hundred  and  seventy  thousand  pies 
might   be  compassed   in  the  succeeding 
year,  making  it  a  round  million  in  twelve 
months,    however    it    was   not    to     be. 
Whether     somebody    had   a   comer   on 
pumpkins  that   year,  or  whether  apples 
were  high   through  increased    shipments 
to    Europe    where   pies   cannot   go,  or 
whether   pies   had  begun   to   go  out  of 
fashion,  or  strong  rivalry   with  this   firm 
had  sprung   up  so  it    was  that  the  sales 
actually  fell  twenty-five   thousand  pies 
short  of  the  greatest  pie  year.     Still  the 
prospect  is  good  for  the  firm   to  achieve 
the  object  of  their  ambition.     The   pop- 
ulation of  the  city  is  still   increasing  and 
no  new  or  alarming   accusations   against 
pie  have  been   started  of  late.     This  es- 
tablishment possesses  six  carrying  vans, 
five  of  which  are  of  the  capacity   of  om- 
nibasses  and  are  as  finely  painted.  They 
cost    five   hundred    dollars   each,    have 
horses  to  match  and  each   van  takes  out 
five   hundred   pies  at  every   trip.     The 
customers  are  lunch  counter  keepers  and 
restaurants,  hotels  and  boarding  houses, 
bakeries,  groceriei?  and   private   houses, 
all  over   the  city.     They  run  five   huge 
rotary  ovens  of  which  the  doors  are  nev- 
er closed,  but  the  pies  put  in  at  the  front 
pass  around  the  interior  on  the  revolving 
floor  and   come  to   the  door  again   done 
and    ready   to   taken   out.     Of    course 
their  pies  are  good  or  they   could  never 
hope   to  sell   a  million   a  year,  and    the 
sorts    they   make   are   quite   numerous 
in  variety.     Still  they  are  cheap. 

23— Lemon  Cream  Pie. 


ringue  and  bake  again  but  only  until 
the  meringue  or  frosting  has  a  light  col- 
or on  top. 

The  lemon  cream  filling.  ' 

2  cups  milk — 1  pint.  '    • 

^  cup  sugar — 4  ounces.  ^ 

h  cup  flour — 2  ounces. 

1  tablepoon  butter — 1  ounce. 

Few  drops  oil  lemon,  or  extract  or 
grated  rind. 

Put  a  spoonful  of  sugar  in  the  milk 
and  set  on  to  boil.  The  sugar  prevents 
the  milk  from  burning  on  the  bottom. 
Mix  the  flour  and  rest  of  sugar  very 
thoroughly  together  diy,  drop  them  into 
boiling  milk  and  stir  rapidly  with  the 
wire  e^^  beater.  Throw  in  the  butter. 
Let  cook  at  the  back  of  the  range  10  min- 
utes. Flavor  before  spreading  in  the 
pie  crusts. 

For  the  frosting  take  whites  of  eggs, 
3  tablespoons  sugar,  whip  the  whites 
quite  firm,  beat  in  the  sugar  a  few  mo- 
ments, spread  over  the  pies  and  dry- 
bake  in  a  slsack  oven. 

At  the  great  bakeries  mentioned  the 
frosting  is  placed  around  in  a  pat- 
tern with  a  star  kiss  tube,  as  named  at 
No.  5. 


Cover  the  pie  pans  with  a  single  crust 
but  with  a  thicker  edge  than  common, 
and  bake  it  slack  done.  Take  out  and 
fill  with  lemon  cream,    cover   with  me- 1 


Save  the  yolks  of  eggs  to  make  cus- 
tard pies. 

Cost  of  material — crust  for  2  pies^ 
6c;  filling  and  frosting  13c,  19c — cut 
each  in  4. 

24 — Pumpkin   or   Squash  Pie. 

6  cups  cooked  pumpkin  or  squash, — 
or  3  pints  or  pounds,  or  a  can. 

1  cup  light  brown  sugar — 7  ounces. 

1  cup  flour — <k  ounces. 

1  cup  milk  J  pint. 

1  teaspoon  ground  ginger — J  ounce. 

■J  teaspoon  salt. 

Have  the  pumpkin  drained  dry  after 
cooking,  and  mashed  smooth.  Mix  in 
the  sugar,  ginger  and  pinch  of  salt. 
Mix  the  flour  with  the  milk  in  a  bowl 
gradually,  perfectly  free  from  lumps, 
and  stir  that  well  into  the  pumpkin. 

Cover  3  large   pie  pans    with     thin. 


12 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


crasts  of  short  paste  made  of  a  small  cup 
of  lard  rubbed  into  4  cups  of  flour  and 
mixed  up  with  water  and  a  little  salt  and 
rolled.  Fill  them  to  the  brim  with  the 
pumpkin,  bake  ^  hour  in  a  slack  oven. 
Eat  cold. 

Cost  of  material — 4J  lbs  raw  pump- 
kin or  squash  at  2c,  one-third  waste — 
pumpkin  9,  sugar  5,  flour  1,  milk  2, 
ginger  1;  18c  for  filling.  Crust  average 
3c  each,  total  each  pie  9c.  Large  din- 
ner plate  size,  full.  Cut  in  4.  A3 
lb.  can  pumpkin  or  squash  costs  20c  by 
the  dozen. 

25— Apple  Pie. 

7  or  8  average  apples — 2  pounds. 

Short  paste  for  2  covered  pies. 

Buy  sweet,  ripe  apples  that  need  no 
sugar,  have  a  care, however  that  they  are 
of  a  good  cooking  sort.  Pare  and  slice 
them  thinly  off  the  cores. 

Spread  thin  bottom  crusts  on  2  large 
pie  pans,  put  iu  the  sliced  apples  raw, 
cover  with  a  top  crust,  bake  ^  hour  in 
a  slack  oven. 

A  grating  of  nutmeg  can  be  added  if 
desired  to  improve  the  flavor,  and  with 
some  kinds  of  apoles  it  is  an  advantage 
to  put  in  a  spoonful  or  two  of  water  and 
dredge  a  little  flour  on  top  of  the  fruit 
before  covering. 

When  puting  on  th''  top  crust  the 
quickest  and  best  way  instead  of  cutting 
around  is  to  press  both  hands  against 
the  edge  of  the  pie  pan,  turning  it  around 
on  the  table  and  so  cutting  off  the  paste. 
It  closes  the  edges  together  and  takes 
off  all  the  surplus. 

Cost  of  material — apples  6,  double 
crusts  for  2  pies  8;  14c.  Large  dinner 
plate  size,  full.     Cut  each  in  4. 

Sound  apples  lose  one-third  theu* 
weight  by  paring  and  coring,  unsound 
apples, of  course. are  an  indefinite  proposi- 
tion. A  bushel  of  apples  is  48  lbs;  it 
contains  from  150  to  200  apples,  accord- 
ing to  size,  average,  say  175.    A  bushel 


of  apples   makes  48  pies,    dinner  plate 
size. 

26— Mince  Pie— No  1. 


Cover  large  pie  pans  with  a  bottom 
crust  of  plain  pie  paste  and  put  into  each 
a  heaped  ^  pint  of  the  following  mince- 
meat. Cover  with  a  top  crust  and  bake 
i  hour.     Keep  warm  until  served. 

Cost  of  material — crust  each  4,mince- 
meat  6,  10c.     Large  size  cut  in  4. 

27— Mincemeat— No.  1 


8  cups  minced  beef — 2  pounds. 

12  cups  minced  suet — 3  pounds. 

12  cups  currants — 4  pounds. 

12  cups  chopped  apples — 3  pounds. 

2  heaped  cups  raisins — 1  pound. 

2  heaped  cups  brown  sugar — 1  pound. 

2  heaped  tablespoons  mixed  ground 
spices — cinnamon,  alspice  and  cloves. 

4  cups  orange  and  lemon  rinds  boiled 
tender  and  chopped — 1^  pounds. 

2  cups  common  bran  ly — 1  pint. 

14  cups  cider — 3  J  quarts. 

Season  tbe  chopped  meat  and  suet 
with  salt  and  black  pepper,  then  mix  all 
and  keep  in  a  jar  or  keg  a  week  or  two 
or  longer,  before  using. 

Cost  of  material — Meat  loses  one- third 
in  boiling,  buy  3  lbs  beef,  heart  or  tongue 
at  average  8c.,  beef  24,  suet  24,  cur- 
rants 40,  apples  9,  raisins  20,  sugar  10, 
spice  10,  orange  peel  8,  brandy  50,  ci- 
der 45;  $2,40c.  Amount  3  galls.,  80c 
gall.  Heaping  \  pint  to  each  large  pie 
makes  40  at  cost  of  6c  each. 


29— Mince  Pie— No.  2. 


Cover  pie  pans  with  plain  pie  paste 
rolled  very  thin  and  put  hito  each  pie  a 
full  large  cup  of  the  following  mince- 
meat. Cover  with  a  thin  top  crust  and 
bake  in  a  slack  oven  about  20  minutes. 


Cost  of  material — crust  for  each  pie 
3J,  filling  3^;  7c  each.  Large  size,  full. 
Cut  in  4. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


18 


29— Mincemeat— No  2. 

1  ox  heart  boiled  tender  and  minced. 
6  cups  minced  suet — 1^  pounds. 

4  cupa  black  molasses — 1  quart. 

4  heaped  cups  brown  sugar — 2  pounds. 

2  heaped  cups  raisins — 1  pound. 

3  heaped  cups  currants — 1  pound. 

3  heaped  tablespoons  ground  spices— 
alspic-e,  cinnamon  and  cloves  mixed. 

1  heaped  tablespoon  black  pepper. 

2  cups  vinegar — 1  pint. 

4:  cups  orange  and  lemon  peel  boiled 
tender  and  minced. 

6  heaped  cups  raw  dried  apples — IJ 
pounds. 


6  pressed-in  cups  bread  crumbs — IJ 
pounds. 

16  cups  water — 4  quarts. 

Boil  the  dried  apples  in  2  quarts  of 
the  water  and  before  they  become  too 
soft  take  them  out  and  chop  them  and 
put  them  with  the  liquor  in  a  large  jar. 
Pour  2  quarts  water  over  the  bread  and 
add  that,  then  all  the  othar  ingredients 
as  named.  Season  the  meat  and  suet 
with  salt.     It  is  ready  for  present    use. 


Cost  of  material — $1,40.  Amount  3 
galls. ;  47c  gall.  Makes  40  pies,  largo 
size. 


Cheese  Pudding. 

Line  a  small  shallow  dish  with  good 
pastry,  beat  up  two  eggs,  add  half  a 
pound  of  grated  cheese,  one  quarter 
ounze  of  butter,  and  a  seasoning  of 
pepper  and  salt;  mix  well,  and  pour 
into  the  lined  dish. 


Cheese  Straws. 

Take  equal  portions  of  flour,  grated 
cheese,  and  butter -one  quarter  or 
half  a  pound  of  each,  according  to  the 
number  of  "straws*'  required.  Add 
a  slight  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper; 
make  the  whole  into  a  paste,  roll  out, 
cut  into  strips  or  straws,  and  bake  in 
a  quick  oven. 


Cheese   Pounded. 

Cut  up  one  pound  of  cheese  that 
has  become  too  dry  for  the  table,  into 
small  pieces ;  add  three  ounzes  of 
butter  and  a  teaspoonful  of  made 
mustard.  Put  in  a  mortar  and  pound 
it  until  smooth ;  press  it  into  glass  or 


earthen  pots  such  as  are  used  for 
potted  meats.  Use  it  by  spreading 
oi»  thin  bread  and  butter  or  toast. 


Cheese  Souffle. 

Mix  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  milk 
with  about  a  dessert-spoonful  of  flour 
and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Put  in  a  sauce- 
pan, and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it 
thickens.  Add  one  quarter  pound  of 
cheese,  fine  grated,  and  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs.  Beat  all  together,  and 
then,  having  beaten  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  into  a  stiff  froth,  add  them  to 
the  rest,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 


Cheese  Scallops. 

Soak  three  ounzes  of  breadcrumbs 
in  some  milk,  add  two  beaten  eggs, 
one  ounze  of  butter,  one  quarter 
pound  of  grated  cheese,  and  pepper 
and  salt.  Mix  thoroughly,  pour  into 
scallop  shells,  and  cover  with  bread- 
crumbs.    Bake  until  brown. 


14 


SAIT  FRANGISGO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


RESTAURANT  BREAKFAST. 


30— Coffee. 


More  coffee  is  consumed  in  this  coun- 
try than  in  any  other  under  the  sun;  its 
value  is  understood,  its  power  as  a  stim- 
ulant to  bodily  and  mental  activity  is 
appreciated  and  no  other  article  of  gen- 
eral consumption  can  be  named  of  which 
the  public  are  so  careful  to  guard  against 
adulteration  as  this.  Packages  of  ready- 
ground  articles  are  generally  simnned; 
the  merchants  must  keep  the  sacks  of 
coffee,  ready  browned  but  of  different 
grades  in  sight  and  a  mill  for  it  to  be 
ground  in  before  the  buyer's  eyes,  and 
these  straightforward  methods  are  the 
outgrowth  of  more  than  mere  personal 
solicitudes  or  defences  against  the  small 
frauds  of  imitation  or  substitution  which 
in  the  case  of  innumerable  other  articles 
are  submitted  to  with  careless  indiffer- 
ence, they  result  from  the  feeling  that 
the  active  business  of  the  community 
cannot  be  carried  on  in  the  fast  way  to 
which  the  New  World  cities  have  be- 
come habituated  without  the  stimulating 
aid  of  good  coffee,  that  is  to  say  of  gen- 
uine coffee.  For  the  potency  of  the  ber- 
ry to  refresh  and  impel  to  new  exertion 
is  not  to  any  considerable  degree  depen- 
dent upon  tbe  method  of  prepanng  it  for 
the  table.  Coffee  causes  wakefulness 
when  eaten  raw,  or  drawn  by  long  steep- 
ing in  cold  water,  its  effects  are  rather 
deadened  than  increased  wben  it  is 
made  into  the  pleasant  breakfast  bever- 
age with  cream  and  sugar.  Its  energy 
is  most  expansive  in  the  out  door  camp 
wbere,  boiled  in  a  camp  kettle  it  is 
drunk  by  the  pint  or  quart  witbout  milk 
and  the  drowsy  hunters  or  travelers 
spring  up  and  start  off  singing. 

There  are  the  best  of  reasons  therefore 
why  no  great  success  should  be  expecterl 
for  any  eating  house  that  depends  npon 
boarders  who  are  free  to  change,  until 
it  is  made  a  special  matter  of  care  first, 
to  provide  genuine  coffee  ofgood  qaulity, 
and  second,  to  have  it  made  strong, 
clear,  fresh  and  furnished    with   cream. 


pleasant  to  the  sight,  to  the  sense  of 
cleanliness  and  purity  and  to  the  taste. 
Some  drink  coffee  for  the  sake  of  the 
coffee,  some.  Rip  Van  Winkle's,  for  the 
cream  and  sugar,  but  the  latter,  if  not 
already  past  work  when  they  begin, 
come  over  at  last  to  the  ranks  of  the  ac- 
tive multitude. 

The  stimulation  afforded  by  the  cof- 
fee berry  having  become  an  absolute 
necessity  it  is  a  question  only  whether 
the  coffee  made  is  to  be  of  such  a  sort 
that  it  must  be  gii^ped  down  like  a  medi- 
cine and  a  second  draught  avoided  if 
possible,  or  whether  sipped  with  the  ut- 
most enjoyment  of  both  its  flavor  and 
fragrance,  and  this  is  a  matter  that  rests 
mostly  with  the  maker  who  in  turn  is 
dependent  for  success  upon  the  vessel 
that  keeps  it  for  him  after  it  is  made, 
for  an  improper  urn  will  spoil  the  best 
coffee  ever  concocted  in  the  course  of  an 
hour  or  two.  The  most  important  im- 
provement in  coffee  urns  is  that  of  fitting 
the  inside  with  a  stone  jar  which  holds 
the  coffee  and  keeps  it  free  from  metallic 
taint.  It  is  practically  impossible  to 
make  coffee  to  order  as  wanted,  neither 
can  coffee  bought  ofgood  quality  and  made 
strong  be  thrown  away  when  left  over 
from  a  meal,  but  if  kept  in  a  metal  pot 
or  urn  turns  black  and  bitter,  discolors 
milk  and  cream  like  a  dye  and  has  none 
of  the  fine  aroma  it  had  when  first  made. 
The  substitution  of  a  bright  new  tin 
vessel  for  the  old  and  cankerous  one  will 
remedy  the  matter  for  a  short  time  but 
rust  spots  form  inside  the  new  one  with- 
in a  week  and  the  coffee  gradually  be- 
comes as  bad  as  before.  If  the  makers 
of  stoneware  or  some  harmless  unglazed 
pottery  would  put  upon  the  market  coffee 
urns  with  faucets,  and  an  inner  rim  to 
hold  the  hoop  of  a  muslin  filtering  bag  a 
remedy  would  be  furnished  for  much  bad 
coffee  within  the  reach  of  those  who  can- 
not buy  the  costly  plated  urns  with  the 
stone- ware  linings.  When  a  good  way 
of  keeping  the  coffee  so  that  it  will  not 
change  to  ink  between  one  meal  and  the 
next  has  been  adopted  it  will  become 
worth  while  to  lay  a  stress  upon  the  se- 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


15 


lection  of  the  best  kinds.  Good  Rio  cof- 
fee is  the  most  servicable,  the  cheapest, 
and  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  is  good 
enough  if  well  made,  but  those  who  can 
distinguish  between  the  flavors  will  pre- 
fer Java,  and  a  mixture  of  Java  and  Rio 
is  generally  satisfactory.  The  fancy 
kinds  such  as  Mocha,  African,  or  what- 
ever new  names  may  be  given  are  gene- 
rally peculiar  onl}"^  in  being  the  produce 
of  young  trees  which  after  awhile  bear 
the  same  old  sort  of  coffee  as  other  plan- 
tations. It  is  said  that  tliere  is  no  more 
of  what  used  to  be  known  as  Mocha  cof- 
fee; nothing  remains  but  a  name. 


peated  filtering  through  the  coarse  coffee 
\  will  remain  at  the  bottom  it  never  dis- 
I  turbed  by  boiling,  and  the  coffee  will 
I  pour  off  clear  and  strong.     But  very  bad 

coffee  is  often  made  by  careless  people  by 

this  method. 


33— To  Make  Coffee— Restaurant. 


31— To  Make  Coffee— Family. 

1  heaping  cup  ground  coffee — 4 
ounces. 

8  cups  watei — 2  quarts. 

The  most  people  who  do  cooking  for 
profit  cannot  afford  to  make  coffee  with- 
out boiling,  the  full  strength  is  not  ex- 
tracted until  the  boiling  point  is  reached 
and  to  make  it  otherwise  more  coffee 
is  required  or  less  water.  However,  it 
need  not  keep  on  boiling  after  the  first 
heat. 

Have  the  coffee  ground  coarse  like 
oatmeal,  put  it  on  in  cold  water  and  let 
come  to  a  boil,  then  immediately  remove 
it  to  the  stove  hearth  or  some  place  to 
keep  hot  without  boiling  and  a  few  min- 
utes before  it  is  to  be  poured  off  add  \ 
cup  of  cold  water.  Coffee  made  this 
way  half  an  hour  before  the  meal  will 
pour  off  quite  clear  without  anything 
added  to  clearify  it. 

32— French  Coffee. 


Put  a  large  cup  of  coarsely  ground  cof- 
fee shaken  in  and  heaped  up  (4  ounces) 
into  the  perforated  top  of  a  coffee  pot  and 
pour  over  it  6  cups  of  boiling  water. 
Kepp  the  pot  at  boiling  heat  without  ac- 
tual boiling.  When  the  water  has  run 
through,  pour  it  off  into  another  vessel  and 
pour  it  through  again  and  then  once  or 
twice  more.  Whatever  sediment  may 
have  passed  through   in  spite  of  the  re- 


If  there  is  no  properly  constructed  cof- 
fee urn,  pro  vide  a  tin  one  having  a  faucet 
near  the  bottom,  and  a  muslin  bag  run- 
ning down  to  a  point  hanging  inside  from 
a  hoop  that  rests  on  the  rim  of  the  urn 
and  is  covered  by  the  lid.  Put  in  the 
coarse  ground  coffee — J  pound  to  4 
quarts  of  water.  Keep  a  coffee  pot 
specially  to  boil  the  water  in,  you  will 
know  how  much  it  holds,  and  use  it  for 
nothing  else.  Pour  the  boiling  water 
upon  the  coffee  in  the  bag,  draw  it  off  at 
the  faucet  and  pour  it  through  again  and 
again.  Keep  the  urn  where  it  will  be  at 
boiling  heat  almost,  yet  not  boil.  This 
is  often  very  hard  to  manage  where 
there  is  no  steam-heated  stand,  but  some 
way  must  be  found  if  the  coffee  is  to  be 
good. 

W^here  there  is  a  regular-built  coffee 
urn  kept  hot  either  by  steam  or  gas  that 
can  be  regulated  at  will,  the  way  is  to 
put  into  the  urn  the  proper  amount  of 
water  and  the  coffee  tied  securely  in  a 
muslin  or  canvas  sack  and  there  let  it 
draw. 

The  addition  of  eggs  to  the  raw  coffee 
if  not  postitively  necessary  to  make  the 
coffee  clear  seems  to  give  it  a  raild  taste 
like  the  addition  of  milk.  It  is  most 
useful  when  the  coffee  is  ground  too  fine. 

If  eggs  are  to  be  used  put  the  coffee 
in  a  pan,  mix  1  or  2  eggs  with  a  cup  or 
two  of  cold  water,  wet  the  coffee  with  it, 
then  put  on  in  the  big  coffee  pot  and 
boil  before  pouring  it  into  the  filtering 
bag  in  the  urn. 

34 — Cream   Fop  Coffee. 


Use  the  very  small  individual  cream- 
pitchers  that  hold  only  2  tablespoonfuls 
and  serve  one  with   each  cup  of  coffee. 


16 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


With  this  careful  apportionment  it  is  often 
found  practicable  to  procure  cream  enough 
for  the  purpose  where  otherwise  the  serv- 
ing of  real  cream  could  not  be  attempted. 

Cost  of  co£fee  with  cream  and  sugar — 
with  cofifee  at  20c. ,  and  J  ounce  or  a  ta- 
blespoon to  each  cup,  and  2  teaspoons  or 
1  ounce  sugar  and  2  tablespoons  cream 
to  each  cup,  and  cream  90c.,  gall. — cof- 
fee 5,  cream  ^  pt,  6.,  sugar  5;  16c., 
for  8  cups  or  2c.  a  cup  for  material. 


35— Tea. 


1  teaspoonful  makes  1  large  cup. 
4  teaspoonfuls  make  a  quart  of  tea. 

1  heaping  cupful  is  14  teaspoonfuls, 
and  makes  1  gallon  of  tea  if  mixed  tea  is 
used  and  allowed  some   time  to  draw. 

2  heaping  cupfuls  of  tea  is  a  quarter 
of  a  pound,  and  makes  2  gallons,  or  the 
Bame  number  of  cups  as  a  pound  of  cof- 
fee, or  about  30  as  cups  are  filled. 

There  are  many  who  claim  to  make 
2 J  gallons  of  cofifee  from  a  pound,  and 
the  same  will  increase  the  quantity  of  tea 
to  the  pound  but  it  must  be  at  a  disad- 
vantage to  the  good  quality  of  the  arti- 
cles. It  is  probable  that  where  a  business 
is  successful  in  spite  of  a  poor  quality  of 
tea  and  coffee  provided,  it  would  be  still 
more  successful  with  that  point  upheld. 

On  the  other  hand  a  great  deal  of  dis- 
satisfaction is  caused  in  hotels  through 
an  unsystematic  way  of  making  the  tea; 
because  there  is  really  scarcely  anything 
to  be  done  that  little  is  slighted ;  a  quan- 
tity of  tea  much  too  large  is  thrown  into 
water  that  does  not  boil,  in  the  hope  to  ob- 
tain tea  the  quicker,  which  is  bad  at  first; 
but  afterwards  the  tea  becomes  so  strong 
that  nobody  can  drink  it.  There  should 
be  a  measure  of  some  sort  always  in  the 
tea  box,  that  there  may  be  no  excuse  for 
dipping  it  up  by  uncounted  handfuls. 

When  the  tea  becomes  so  that  it  looks 
like  coffee  in  the  cups,  yet  has  neither 
strength  nor  fragrance  and  of  course  is 
unfit  to  drink»  it  may  be  partly  due  to 
the  use  of  black  tea,  but  it  is  the  certain 
result  of  allowkig  the  tea  to  stand   and 


boil  too   long,  no   matter  what  kind   of 
tea  may  be  provided. 

The  best  way  to  make  tea  for  a  lar- 
ger quantity  than  can  be  supplied 
from  the  family  tea-pot  is  to  put  the 
measured  amount  required  into  a  box 
made  like  a  quart  measure,  of  perforated 
tin,  having  a  lid  to  fasten  on,  and  drop 
it  into  an  urn  of  boiling  water,  containing 
the  right  proportion,  and  then  stop  the 
boiling  and  allow  -J  hour  for  the  tea  to 
draw.  The  box  must  be  large  enough 
to  allow  the  tea  to  swell  and  the  water 
to  circulate  through  it.  Before  all  the 
tea  is  drawn  off  add  more  boiling  water — 
a  fourth  as  much  as  was  used  at  the 
first — for  the  second  drawing.  On  an 
average  each  person  takes  2  teaspoon- 
fuls of  sugar  to  each  cup  of  tea — that  is 
1  ounce.  In  some  good  restaurants  the 
plan  adopted  is  to  give  with  each  cup 
three  lumps  of  sugar  in  a  butter-chip  or 
very  small  saucer;  and  a  correspondingly 
small  individual  pitcher  with  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream. 

Cost  of  material — 4  ounces  tea  20, 
sugar  20,  cream  30;  70c — 35  cups  tea 
for  70c,  2c  a  cup. 


36— Chocolate. 


Common  unsweetened  chocolate  is  to 
be  used  as  the  sweet  chocolate  bemg  -J 
sugar  is  not  strong^. 

1  ounce  common  chocolate  makes  4 
cups. 

1  heaping  cupful  of  grated  common 
chocolate,  is  3  ounces  and  makes  3 
quarts;  it  contains  7  tablespoonfuls. 

1  heaping  tablespoonful  of  grated  com- 
mon makes  2  cups  as  cups  are  filled. 

Chocolate  must  be  cold  to  grate;  it 
melts  and  runs  when  made  hot.  The 
eupces  are  marked  on  the  cakes. 

To  make  chocolate  take: 
3  cups  milk. 

1  cup  water. 

2  heaping  tablespoons  grated  chocolate. 
Boil  the  milk  and  water  in  a  saucepan, 

drop  in  the  chocolate   and  beat   with  the 
wire  egg- whisk  imtil  the  chocolate   is  all 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


17 


dissolved  and  it  boils.  It  should  be 
made  to  order  whenever  practicable,  the 
milk  and  water  being  kept  ready  boiling, 
but  if  made  beforehand  should  be  kept 
in  a  sink  of  the  steam  chest  or  double 
kettle  aud  not  allowed  to  boil  again. 

Cost  of  material  by  gallon — 4  ounces 
chocolate  10,  3  quarts  milk  21,  sugar 
10;  4:1c  for  18  cups  2Jc  a  cup— single 
cups  cost  2Jc, 

37— A  Restaurant  Pot  of  Coffee,  Tea 
or  Choclate. 


A  pot  is  a  pint  silver  or  crockery-ware 
cofFee  pot  that  a  person  may  order  instead 
of  2  cups;  the  restaurants  that  charge 
10c  per  cup  furnish  a  pot  of  2  cups  for 
15c  or  a  pot  for  2  of  4  cups  for  25c  of 
either  coffee  or  tea,  but  5c  higher  per 
pot  for   chocolate. 

French  coffee,  meaning  coffee  of  dou- 
ble the  common  strength,  dripped  and 
not  boiled  is  25c  per  pot  of  2  cups. 

French  coffee  with  cognac  per  pot  of 
2  cups,  3-fourths  coffee  and  1-fourth 
brandy  50c. 

Some  Necessary  Explanations. 


As  we  are  starting  out  to  funiish  a 
ready-reckoning  book  that  may  in  the 
course  of  time  show  the  average  or  proba- 
ble cost  of  everything  from  a  pie  to  a  grand 
banquet  and  as  the  selling  prices  of  many 
dishes  in  the  restaurants  and  elsewhere 
will  often  have  to  be  quoted,  for  suffi- 
cient reasons,  we  wish  to  caution  ail 
readers  against  forming  hasty  conclu- 
sions as  to  the  profits  made  in  any  case. 
There  is  not  the  least  intention  on  our 
part  of  setting  the  buying  and  selling 
prices  side  by  side  for  comparison,  for  in 
fact  the  cost  of  material  is  very  often  a  very 
email  part  of  the  expenses  of  serving 
meals.  What  those  expenses  are  made 
up  of  beside  the  cost  of  material  it  is 
outside  of  our  present  business  to  in- 
quire and  these  remarks  are  made  for 
fear  of  any  false  ideas  being  formed  by 
some  readers   who  have  never  been  in 


business  but  think  they  ought  to  be,  and 
by  others  who  may  not  know  the  differ- 
ence between  gross  receipts  and  net 
profits. 

As  regards  the  accuracy  of  our  esti- 
mates it  is  necessary  to  mention  that 
great  differences  in  the  prices  of  raw  pro- 
visions will  be  found  to  exist  in  different 
parts  of  the  country,  coffee  is  cheaper  in 
San  Francisco  than  in  the  east,  salmon 
is  not  half  the  price  of  halibut,  being 
only  about  12c  per  pound  when  in  Chi- 
cago it  costs  4:0c  and  halibut  only  20; 
eggs  and  butter  take  a  wide  range  in 
prices,  and  so  forth.  Still  as  our  prices 
are  always  stated  upon  which  the  esti- 
mates of  cost  are  based  .each  individual 
can  change  them  and  amve  at  the  result 
in  his  own  locality.  To  cooks  in  par- 
ticular who  seldom  trouble  themselves 
about  the  cost  of  materials  and  who 
proverbially  are  sure  to  fail  when  they  gn 
into  business  alone  through  deficiency  of 
that  kind  of  knowledge,  we  hope  to  be  ot 
great  use  by  showing  the  necessity  of 
being  exact  in  weights  aud  measures  if 
they  would  not  double  the  cost  of  arti- 
cles made  and  render  profit  impossible. 

3&— Tenderloin  Steak  For  One. 


Price  in  first-class  restaurants  55c, 
including  bread,  butter,  potatoes  and 
condiments. 

Cut  a  slice  from  the  filet  rather  ovei 
than  under  -J  pound,  and  in  thickness 
according  to  the  size  of  the  filet,  notch 
through  the  outside  skin  with  the  point 
of  the  kbife,  flatten  the  steak  with  a  blow 
of  the  cleaver  to  rather  less  than  an  inch 
thick,  lay  it  on  a  plate  and  brush  over 
both  sides  with  a  slight  touch  of  butter, 
broil  over  clear  coals  about  5  minutes, 
or  as  ordered,  and  season  with  a  dredg- 
ing of  salt  and  pepper  while  it  is  cook- 
ing. Serve  in  a  hot  dish ;  pour  over  it 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  fresh  butter, 
garnish  with  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley  and 
place  ^  a  lemon  at  the  edges. 

Serve  potatoes  as  ordered ;  if  chips  or 
French-fried  they  may  be  in  the  dish  as  a 
border,  other  kinds  in  a  separate  dish. 


18 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


Cost  of  material — steak  18,  butter  to 
sauce  2,  potatoes  1,  lemon  1,  condiments 
2,  bread  2,  butter  3;  29c. 


39— Double  Tenderloin. 


The  diflferencfc  or  deduction  commonly 
made  when  steak  for  two,  of  the  other 
descriptions  is  ordered  is  not  observed 
with  tenderloins,  but  when  a  person  re- 
quires a  double  one  it  is  simply  cut  accord- 
ingly and  so  charged  for.  A  steak  to 
weigh  a  pound  will  take  a  fourth  of  the 
entire  filet.  Having  cut  it  off  the  requi- 
site length  shave  off  two  or  three  narrow 
strips  of  the  skin  that  partly  encircles  it, 
to  allow  it  to  spread,  and  setting  it  on 
end  on  the  block  flatten  it  with  the 
cleaver.     Broil  and  serve  as  usual. 

The  filet  consists  of  a  lot  of  strings  of 
meat  loosely  held  together  and  to  be  at 
the  best  the  steaks  must  be  cut  straight 
up  and  'down,  as  a  slanting  cut  makes 
course  meat.  At  the  thin  end  it  is  better 
as  regards  good  eating  to  cut  the  slices 
not  quite  through,  open  and  flatten  them 
to  make  the  usual  size.  This  however 
does  not  answer  for  an  unusually  large 
or  double  sized  steak,  but  the  fineness  of 
texture  has  to  be  sacrificed  for  the  di- 
mensions. 


40— Tenderloin  or  Filet  Steaks— Their 
Cost. 


The  filet  of  beef  is  the  long  strip  of 
solid  lean  meat  that  mns  along  the  whole 
length  of  the  loin  under  the  back  bone 
and  between  it  and  the  kidney  fat. 
When  the  loin  is  cut  and  sawn  straight 
down  to  make  porterhouse  and  sirloin 
steaks  each  one  of  such  steaks  contains 
a  piece  of  the  filet  from  2  to  4  ounces  iu 
weight,  according  to  where  it  is  cut  and 
the  thickness.  It  is  the  smaller  lean 
portion  that  has  the  suet  upon  it.  To 
make  the  tenderloin  steaks  of  the  res- 
taurants the  filet  is  taken  out  aU  in  one 
piece.  This  cannot  be  obtained  of  all 
butchers  but  some,  having  a  certain  class 
of  trade  will  sell  tenderloins  at  from  25 
to  30c  per  pound.     Those  who  buy  beef  j 


by  the  loin  or  hind  quarter,  and  having 
sale  for  all  the  different  grades  of  meat, 
also  take  out  the  filet  entir»i  should  still 
count  it  at  about  30c,  per  pound  as  the 
following  calculation  shows.  An  even 
weight  is  taken  to  make  the  estimate 
easy  to  change  when  the  price  of  beef  is 
different. 

300  pounds  of  loin  at  12c  costs  $36. 
1-third  of  it  is  bone;  1-third  is  coarse 
meat  and  fat;  1-third  is  fine  clear  steak, 
including  the  tenderloin  and  the  rest 
nearly  equal  to  it. 

The  bone  is  worth  2c  per  pound  for 
soup — $2, 

The  coarse  meat  and  fat  is  worth  8c 
per  pound — $8.  Take  these  amounts 
from  $36.  the  first  price  of  the  beef,  and 
the  fine  steaks  will  be  found  to  cost  2.6c 
per  pound.  As  the  tenderloin  is  ac- 
counted a  little  better  than  the  rest  and 
is  in  greater  request  it  may  be  properly 
reckoned  at  30c  per  pound  cost  price 
raw. 

'    41— Filet   a  la  Chateaubriand. 


Price  $1,25,  or  indefinite  according  to 
style  of  house. 

It  is  a  large  tenderloin  steak  broiled 
between  two  thin  steaks  over  a  slow  char- 
coal fire  until  done  through,  with  all  the 
gravy  of  the  three  carefully  preserved. 
The  outside  steaks  removed  when  done 
only  their  gravy  squeezed  over  the  oth- 
er. Common  thin  steaks  answer  for  the 
outside.  Have  them  wide  enough  and 
fasten  the  edges  together  with  small 
skewers  before  placing  on  the  gridiron. 
Pour  sauce  of  hot  butter  with  salt  and 
pepper  in  it  around  the  steak,  add  paris- 
ienne  potatoes  and  cut  lemon.  Truffle 
sauce  instead  of  the  butter,  if  desired. 

42— Potatoes    Free   With   All    Meat 
Orders— Their  Cost. 


Two  average  potatoes,  or  -J pound  raw 
make  a  dish. 

Potatoes  at  $1,00  per  100  are  60c  per 
bushel  and  4  middling  potatoes  cost  Ic. 

The  cheapest   way,   as  a   matter  of 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


19 


course,  is  to  serve  them  with  tbeir  jack- 
ets on  or,  as  the  French  say  and  some- 
times print  in  their  menus,  en  chemise. 
The  next  cheapest  \?  the  saute  potatoes, 
boiled  first,  peeled  \\  lion  cold  and  sliced 
into  a  frying  pan  with  a  little  fat  and 
browned  more  or  less.  Those  pared  raw 
and  friel  by  immersion  in  hot  lard  cost 
the  most. 

In  counting  the*  cost  of  potatoes  as  an 
article  of  food  it  is  necessary  to  estimate 
that  they  loose  half  their  weight  by 
paring  raw,  100  pounds  bought  for  $1 
will  be  only  50  pounds  after  pairing — 
that  is  to  say  if  pared  by  the  help,  and 
the  potatoes  of  a  rough  sort  with  deep 
eyes.  Smooth  potato  s  like  the  rose  or 
snowball,  pared  by  the  person  who  pays 
for  them  may  lose  only  a  third  of  their 
weight. 

But  potatoes  boiled  or  steamed  with 
the  skins  on  will  only  lose  15  pounds 
out  of  100  by  peeling  when  done,  or  2 
or  3  ounces  out  of  a  pound  instead  of  G 
or  8.  Where  potatoes  are  used  by  the 
wagon  •  load  these  differences  are  of  great 
consequence. 

Taking  the  orders  at  a  restaurant  as 
they  come  for  plain  boiled  or  baked  or 
the  forms  in  which  potatoes  are  boiled 
before  paring,  and  the  fried  and  chips 
and  perhaps  broiled,  and  sweet  potatoes 
it  is  a  fair  average  count  of  ^-c  per 
dish  for  potatoes  and  ^for  lard  to 
fiy,  or  100  dishes  potatoes  free  with 
meat  orders  for  $1. 


43~Porterhouse  Steak  For  One. 


Price  in  first-class  restaurants  G5c, 
including  bread,  butter,  potatoes  and 
condiments. 

The  porterhouse  cut  is  the  middle  or 
best  part  of  the  loin  beginning  an  inch  or 
two  from  where  the  filet  begins  near  the 
last  rib  and  extending  back  till  the  round 
bone  at  the  pomt  of  the  hip  is  struck. 
The  porterhouse  steaks  are  slices  sawn 
clear  through,  taking  both  bone,  upper  loin 
and  tenderloin.  They  cannot  well  be  cut 
weighing  lesb  than  a   pound  and   gene- 


rally run  from  that  to  a  pound  and  a  half 
accordmg  to  size  of  beef.  A  loin  yields 
from  8  to  12  such  steaks  dependiDg  upon 
the  thickness.  The  butchers  sell  such 
steaks  at  25c  per  pound  retail. 

Having  cut  the  steak  from  the  loin 
about  an  inch  thick  cut  off  part  of  the 
thin  strip  of  the  flank  so  as  to  leave 
about  3  inches  length  attached,  chop  off 
half  the  depth  of  the  back  bone  to  give 
a  neat  appearance  without  taking  all  the 
bone  away,  and  carefully  sever  the  out- 
side edge  to  prevent  drawing  up  while 
broiling.  Brush  over  with  the  butter 
brash  and  broil  from  G  to  10  minutes  or 
as  ordered.  Serve  with  a  border  of  chip 
or  fried  potatoes. 

Cost  of  material — 1 J  lbs  meat  (by  the 
loin)  25c,  butter  to  sauce  2,  potatoes  1, 
condiments  2,  bread  2,  butter,  3;  35  to 
40c  as  the  meat  may  cut. 


44 — Condiments  With  Meat  Orders- 
Their  Cost. 


The  greatest  expense  is  for  the  table 
sauces  and  ketchups — Worcestershire, 
Halford,  London  Club  sauces  and  the 
like  and  tomato  ketchup,  and  the  next 
for  olive  oil,  french  mustard ,  and  horse- 
radish, while  the  cost  of  the  fillings  of 
the  cruet  stands  is  merely  nominal.  One 
half  the  expense  of  the  costlier  articles 
may  be  saved  by  judicious  management, 
by  keeping  the  sauces  sliaken  up,  setting 
them  out  to  each  order  and  then  moving 
them  to  a  back  shelf,  not  inviting  pro- 
miscuous waste.  In  a  business  of  mod- 
erate dimensions  the  expense  of  table 
sauces  alone  will  easily  run  up  to  $25, 
per  month.  Cucumber  pickles  are  gene- 
rally included  in  the  tree  list  of  condi- 
ments but  dearer  kinds  are  •  charged 
extra. 


45— Butter   With    Meat   Orders— Its 
Cost. 


With  fine  butter  ranging  in  price  from 
30c  per  pound  at  the  lowest  to  GOc  and 
even  to  75c  at  times,  there  is  no  protection 


20 


SAN  FEANGL^CO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


against  lofS  on  every  meal  served  except 
in  serving  the  butter  in  individual  allow- 
ances in  small  butter  chips.  The  neat 
way  of  doing  this  is  to  make  the  butter 
in  individual  prints,  using  for  the  pur- 
pose a  batter  stamp  precisely  like  the 
pound  size  in  common  use  by  the  far- 
mers only  these  hold  but  ^  ounce.  They 
are  in  general  use  in  city  restaurants. 
They  are  like  toy  butter  stamps  in 
size  and  are  imported  along  with  other 
wood  carvings  from  Switzerland.  To 
make  the  prints,  dip  the  wooden  stamp 
in  hot  water,  press  in  the  tablespoonful 
of  butter  that  fills  it,  and  push  it  out  with 
the  moveable  inside. 

A  person  at  table  who  has  not  enough 
butter  will  call  for  more  but  such  requests 
are  not  very  frequent,  and  the  plan  ef- 
fectually prevents  the  eating  of  slices  of 
high-priced  butter  and  slices  of  bread  in 
equal  proportions.  Fine  creamry  but- 
ter at  48c  per  pound  is  3c  an  ounce.  We 
calculate  at  2  or  3c  per  order. 

46—Porterhouse  Steak  fop  Two. 


Price  in  first-class  restaurants  $1,20, 
mcluding  2  dishes  of  potatoes,  bread, 
butter  and  condiments. 

This  is  2  steaks  on  one  dish  and  one 
may  be  cut  a  little  shorter  than  the  other 
80  that  with  the  broad  part  of  the  steaks 
at  each  end  the  one  dish  on  which  they 
are  served  will  have  a  neat  and  even  ap- 
pearance; the  3  inches  of  the  flank  end 
being  seldom  eaten,  but  necessa.y  to 
make  a  large  dish  of  a  single  steak. 


47— Sirloin  Steal<. 


Price  in  first-class  restaurants  45c  in- 
cluding potatoes,  bread,  butter  and  con- 
diments. 

Either  '*a  steak  with  a  bone  in  it"  cut 
from  the  end  of  the  rib  roast  down  to 
the  first  good  porteihouse  steak,  or  from 
the  loin  thick  end  beyond  th«  last  por- 
terhouse. Cut  to  weigh  nearly  a  pound. 
Broil  and  serve  with  a  spoonful  of  butter 
poured  over,  ard  Twtatoea. 


Cost  of  material — steak  15,  butter  to 
sauce  2,  potatoes  1,  condiments  2,  bread 
2,  butter  3;  25c. 

48— Mushrooms   With  Steak  Orders. 

Price  in  first-class  restaurants  20  to 
25c  additional  each  person. 

About  half  a  can  with  each  beefsteak. 
Drain  the  mushrooms  from  their  liquor 
and  fry  (saute)  them  in  a  small  frying 
pan  with  a  little  butter.  Add  pepper 
and  salt.  When  they  have  acquired  a 
slight  color  draw  them  to  one  side  of  the 
pan,  put  in  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  flour 
and  rub  it  smooth  in  the  hot  butter,  still 
keeping  the  pan  over  the  fire,  and  when 
the  flour  has  become  slightly  browned 
pour  in  the  mushroom  liquor  gradually 
and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  water.  Shake 
in  the  mushrooms,  let  all  boil  up,  squeeze 
in  the  juice  of  a  quarter  of  a  lemon  and 
pour  over  the  beefsteak  in  the  dish. 

Cost  of  mushrooms.  Canned  mush- 
rooms are  all  imported.  There  are  arti- 
ficial caves  near  Paris  where  the  culti- 
vated mushroom  beds  are  over  s«iven 
miles  long.  Several  difierent  grades  of 
the  canned  goods  are  on  the  market 
ranging  in  price  from  about  $25  to  $33 
per  case  of  100  cans  (tins  they  are  called 
by  the  English).  The  low  priced  article 
is  made  up  largely  of  mushroom  stalks 
and  large  open  mushrooms.  These  have 
to  be  cut  in  pieces  to  serve  with  steaks. 
They  do  well  to  mince  for  mushroom 
sauce.  The  finer  goods  are  mostly  small 
buttons  and  are  white,  beside  being 
more  solidly  packed.  A  third  of  a  can  of 
the  best  goods  will  generally  make  a 
better  dish  than  half  a  can  of  the  low 
grade.  Retail  price  from  30c  to  40c  per 
can.  Cost  of  mushrooms  with  beefsteak 
a^a  above  should  be  15c,  or  according  to 
buying  rate. 

49— Oysters  with  Steak  Orders. 

Price  in  first-class  restaurants  20c  to 
25c,  additional  each  person. 

The  oysters,  ^  dozen  if  large  or  a  lar- 
I  ger  number  of  small  are  in  a  brown  oys- 


COOKING  FOR  PnOFIT. 


21 


ter  Bauce  prepared  the  same  as  the 
mushrooms  in  precueding  article  or  in 
detail. 

A  heaping  tablespoon  of  flour  will  thicken 
a  cupful  of  liquor;  only  2-thirds  of  that 
amount  is  wanted,  therefore,  put  a 
rounded  spoonful  of  flour  and  the  same 
of  butter  together  in  a  small  frying  pan 
and  stir  them  over  the  fire  until  they  are 
light  brown  and  not  in  the  slightest  de- 
gree burnt.  Then  pour  in  gradually 
nearly  a  cupful  of  oyster  liquor  and 
water,  stir  to  mix  and  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  then  put  in  the  ^  dozen  or 
more  of  oysters  and  when  they  are  at 
boiling  heat  pour  them  over  the  steak. 

Cost  of  material — oysters  6,  butter  3, 
flour  and  seasonings  1,  10c. 

50— French  Pease  with  Steak  Orders. 


51— Tomato  Sauce  With  Meat  Orders. 


10c 


Price  in  first-class  restaurants  20c  to 
25c  additional  each  person. 

About  J  can  of  nease  with  each  beef- 
steak. Throw  away  the  water  and  put 
the  pease  into  a  small  saucepan  with  an 
ounce*  of  butter  and  little  salt,  shake 
them  over  the  fire  until  hot  and  pour  over 
and  around  the  steak. 

For  pease  a  la  Francaise  the  difi*erence 
is  that  a  little  cream  sauce  must  be  made 
first  with  a  spoonful  of  flour  and  the 
same  of  butter  stirred  together  over  the 
fire  but  not  browned,  and  a  half  cup  of 
milk  added ;  then  put  in  the  pease  and 
let  it  get  hot. 

Cost  of  pease — French  pease  range  in 
price  from  $25  to  $33  per  case  of  100 
cans  (tins),  the  quality  varying  from 
large  mature  pease  apparently  artificfally 
colored,  to  the  **petits  pois  extra  fins,'' 
which  are  very  small  and  sweet.  It 
takes  a  third  of  a  can  for  a  sirloin  steak 
and  J  can  for  a  porterhouse.  Pease  re- 
tail at  30c  to  4:0c  per  can.  Cost  with 
butter  average  15c.  There  are  home 
packed  pease  to  be  had  as  good  as  the 
French  at  much  less  cost.  The  French  ar- 
ticles are  made  green  by  the  addition 
of  a  little  richy  salt  to  the  water  they 
are  canned  in. 


Price   in    first-class    restaurants 
additional  each  person. 

Throw  4  tomatoes  into  boiling  water; 
in  three  or  four  minutes  take  them  out 
peel  and  cut  off  the  green  around  the 
stem,  mash  them  in  a  little  saucepan 
over  the  fire  and  let  simmer  in  their  own 
juice.  In  another  pan  put  an  ounce  of 
butter  with  a  scrap  of  raw  ham  and  a 
teaspoon  of  minced  onion  and  when  they 
have  fried  a  minute  add  a  small  table- 
spoon of  flour  and  stir  until  light  brown. 
Add  ^  cup  of  water  or  stock  and  then 
the  stewed  tomatoes.  Salt  and  pepper 
slightly.  Press  the  sauce  through  a 
gravy  strainer.  Pour  it  over  the  meat 
in  the  dish. 

Cost  of  material  per  order  5c — A 
cheaper  quality  for  low-priced  dishes  can 
be  made  without  butter;  and  also  by 
simply  stewing  down  strained  tomatoes^ 
and  their  liquor  until  thick  enough,  and" 
adding  salt  and  pepper.  The  last  is 
probably  the  best  of  all  but  must  be  pre- 
pared before  wanted,  needing  slow  stew- 
ing down  at  the  back  of  the  range. 

52— Onions    With    Meat   Orders. 


Price  in  first-class  restaurants  10c  to 
15c  additional  each  person. 

Slice  thinly  enough  onions  to  fill  such 
a  dish  as  is  used  to  serve  fried  potatoes 
in.  Put  them  into  a  small  fryinjr  pan  with 
a  spoonful  of  lard  or  drippings,  shut  down 
with  a  plate  or  good  lid  and  let  cook  in 
that  manner  until  tender — 5  to  10  min- 
utes— then  take  off  the  plate  and  let  the 
onions  get  light  brown.  Sprinkle  with 
salt.  Drain  away  the  grease,  if  any  left, 
and  serve  the  onions  on  the  meat  in  the 
dish.  

Cost  of  material — the  price  of  the 
onions  and  the  detriment  caused  by  the 
odor  that  prevades  the  establishment. 

53— Small    Steak. 


The   common   term  for  a   steak  of  no 
particular  cut.     Price  in  restaurants  from 


22 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


25c  down  to  15c,  including  baked,  boiled 
or  saute  potatoes,  bread,  butter  and  sea- 
eoningg. 

A  pound  of  round  steak  as  cut  by  the 
butchers  divided  in  three  makes  5-onnce 
steaks,  all  meat,  ot  a  size  sufficient  for 
an  ordinary  meal.  Beat  them  out  a 
little  with  the  side  of  the  cleaver  and  fry 
instead  of  broiling  them  with  the  scraps 
of  fat  in  the  same  pan. 

Cost  of  material — with  round  steak  at 
12c — meat  4,  1  potatoe  -Jc  cruet  condi- 
ments -Jc  bread  2,  butter  2;  9c.  With 
rough  steak  at  8c,  Ic  per  order  less,  or 
a  large  steak  ot  2  orders  to  the  pound. 

54 — Cheap  Beefsteak. 

After  purchasers  have  been  found  wil- 
ling to  pay  25c  to  30c  per  pound  for  se- 
lected portions  there  remains  a  large 
amount  of  every  carcass  that  will  rate 
either  at  the  12J  cent  rate  of  round  of 
biicf  or  as  skirt  or  flank  and  buttock 
worth  about  8c  or  of  a  cheaper  grade 
yet,  the  neck  and  brisket.     This  may  be 


bought  at  5c,  but  it  is  half  bone.  If  150 
pounds  costs  $7,50  at  5c,  when  the  bone 
is  taken  out  it  will  be  75  pounds  of  clear 
meat  costing  10c  per  pound.  If  the  bone 
be  worth  2c  per  pound  for  soup — as  doubt- 
less it  is,  the  75  pounds  is  worth  $1,50, 
making  the  clear  meat  coFt  only  8c  per 
pound.  This  meat  is  equally  nutritious 
with  the  selected  portions  but  is  not  fit 
for  broiling,  as  it  takes  a  longer  time  to 
make  it  tender. 

To  make  it  good,  slice  it  and  lay  it  in 
a  deep  baking  pan  and  fiy  it  with  drip- 
pings or  some  of  the  brisket  fat  pieces  in 
the  usual  manner,  with  a  strong  season- 
ing of  pepper  and  salt  and  a  small  allow- 
ance of  onion  and  when  it  is  brown  on 
both  sides  fill  up  the  pan  with  water  and 
let  it  bake  in  that  manner  in  the  oven  for 
an  hour  or  two.  The  water  will  be  re- 
duced to  brown  gravy  by  that  time. 
Add  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  thickening. 


Cost  of  material — |  pound  of  meat 
v/ith  gravy  and  seasonings  3^,  1  large 
boiled  potatoe  ^,  bread  2,  the  meal  6c. 


Chicken  and  Rice  a  la  Valenciana. 

Take  a  fresh  killed  fowl.  Cut  in 
small  pieces,  braise  for  twenty  minutes 
in  a  saucepan.  Chop  very  fine  two 
onions,  with  two  dants  garlic  and  a 
fagot  of  parsley;  add  to  the  chicken 
and  braise  for  five  minutes  over  a  slow 
fire  Then  add  one  pint  of  tomato 
sauce  and  a  quar-  of  soup  stock  and 
two  heads  of  cloves.  When  the  stock 
conres  to  boil,  add  a  pound  of  rice  and 
season  to  taste.  Let  it  cook  over  a 
slow  fire  till  done. 


Ladies'  Lunches. 

For  ladies'  lunches  a  truce  has  been 
sounded  to  the  expensive  decorations 
of  dinner  cards,  painted  ribbons  and 
bags  for  bonbons,  The  menu  has  been 
simplified.  Chops  with  pease,  a 
Spanish  omelet  (a  delicious  dish  this), 


birds  broiled,  fried  potatoes,  mnsh- 
rooms  on  toast,  artichokes,  salads, 
champagne,  cofi'ee  and  fruit:  this  is 
now  deemed  a  very  stylish  lunch  for 
ladies,  and  is  not  overloaded.  Roasted 
almonds,  salted,  make  a  very  good 
relish  afier  the  sweets. 

Spanish  Omelet. 
Place  in  a  saut6-paa  one  clove  of  a 
garlic,  a  quarter  of  a  can  of  tomato*^  s, 
chopped  mushrooms  and  chopped 
ham;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and 
cnok.  Break  three  eggs  into  a  bowl 
and  beat  thoroughly;  add  a  half  a 
cup  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper  and  make 
an  omelette  in  the  usual  way  and 
place  in  the  middle  the  thick  part  of 
the  foregoing  preparation;  roll  your 
omelette  on  a  side  dish  and  pour  the 
remainder  around  the  omelette  and 
serve. 


COOKING  FOB  PROFIT. 


23 


RESTAURANT   DINNER    DISHES. 


55— Rich  Beef  Soup. 


Price  in  first-class  restaurants  15c 
large  bowl,  with  bread. 

To  make  a  gallon  of  soup  put  into  a 
boiler  a  pailful  of  soup  meat  and  soup 
bones  broken  up — about  10  or  12  pounds 
by  weight — and  the  same  measure  of 
water — which  will  be  2^  gallons  or  20 
pounds — and  slowly  boil  until  it  is  re- 
duced to  about  half,  or  5  quarts.  Then 
strain  it  off  through  a  fine  gravy  strainer 
or  seivo  into  the  soup-pot  and  skim  off 
the  fat,  probably  a  pint  or  poimd.  If 
convenient  and  the  vegetables  are  at  hand 
a  small  bunch  of  various  kinds  should  be 
boiled  along  with  the  soup  bones,  it  is  of 
more  consequence,  however,  to  get  the 
stock  to  boiling  early,  that  it  may  have 
6  or  8  hours  time,  as  the  seasoning  can 
be  done  afterwards.     Then  take  the 

4  quarts  of  soup  stock. 

2  cups  cold  cooked  beef  cut  in  dice. 

2  cups  raw  vegetables  same  way — 
turnip,  ruta-baga,  carrot,  onion,  celery, 
a  little  of  each  to  make  the  amount. 

1  clove  of  garlic. 
•J  a  bay  leaf. 

3  cloves. 

4  heaping  tablespoons  browned  flour. 

2  tablespoons  salt. 

1  tablespoon  pepper. 

Shave  all  the  dark  outside  from  the 
piece  of  cooked  beef  and  cut  it  into  clean 
squares,  boil  them  and  the  cut  vegetables 
in  the  soup  ^  hour,  cut  the  garlic  small 
and  add  with  the  other  seasonings.  Mix 
the  browned  flour  with  some  of  the  soup 
and  thicken  with  it.  The  bayleafcan 
be  taken  out  again  with  the  skimmings. 
Browned  flour  is  flour  baked  dry  in  a 
pan  in  the  oven. 


Cost  of  material — soup  bones  25, 
cooked  beef  5 — (seasonings  paid  for  by 
frying  fat  from  stock) — 30c  gall.  Add 
brea  i  or  crackers  and  castor  condiments 
8  bowls  12c;  5  or  6c  a  bowl. 


56— Boiled  Fresh  Codfish,  Egg  Sauce. 

Price  in  first-class  restaurants  per  dish 
of  1  pound  35c,  including  bread,  butter, 
potatoes  and  condiments. 

Clean  a  fresh  codfish — the  head  is 
considered  a  delicacy  in  some  countries, 
and  it  makes  good  chowder,  but  if  not 
wanted  for  that  boil  it  in  the  same  ves- 
sel with  the  fish  to  enrich  the  liquor — 
have  the  water  ready  boiling  in  the  flsh 
kettle,  throw  in  a  handful  of  salt,  put 
in  the  fish  and  boil  gently  at  the  side  of 
the  range  about  ^  hour  or  until  the  flesh 
will  leave  the  backbone  when  tried. 
Then  lift  out  the  drainer  or  false  bottom 
with  the  fish  unon  it  and  keep  it  hot.- 


57— Egg  Sauce. 

4  cups  clear  broth  or  water. 

■J  cup  butter. 

3  hard-boiled  eggs. 

3  rounded  tablespoons  flour. 

1  tablespoon  salt. 

Boil  3  cups  of  the  water  with  J  the 
butter  in  it  and  the  salt.  ^lix  the  flour 
with  the  rest  of  the  water  and  add  it  for 
thickening.  When  boiled  up  add  rest 
of  butter  and  beat  till  all  melted  chop  the 
eggs  coarse  and  stir  them  in. 

Cost  of  egg  sauce — butter  8,  eggs  5, 
flour  and  salt  1,  14c  for  8  orders. 

Cost  of  boiled  codfish — 10  lbs  gross 
$1,00;  loss  and  shrinkage  4  lbs — 8 
12-oz  dishes  with  4  oz  sauce  15c  dish. 
Add  bread,  butter  and  potatoes  to 
cost. 

Note — The  size  of  the  dishes  hero 
mentioned  is  enough  far  3  or  4  hotel  din- 
ner dishes. 


58— Salmon  Steak  Maitre  d'  Hotel. 


Price  50  cents. 

Have  ready  some  potatoes  with  the 
skins  on  cooked  in  a  steamer  and  hot  as 
they  keep  a  better  shape  for  restaurant 
dishes  managed  this  way  than  if  pared 
and  stewed. 

Pepper  and  salt  a  12-cunce  salmon  stftik, 
rub  1  he  bars  of  the  hiuged  wire  broiler  with 


24 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


butter  and  broil  the  steak  either  over  or 
before  a  clear  fire  about  G  or  8  minutes, 
loosen  it  from  the  wires  by  pushing  with 
a  brush  clipped  in  butter  and  place  on  a 
hot  dish  of  large  size. 

Peel  and  cut  2  or  3  potatoes  in  quar- 
ters and  shake  them  up  in  a  little  hot 
butter  with  salt;  place  them  around  the 
steak. 

Chop  a  lump  of  butter  size  of  an  ^^'^ 
in  a  frying  pan,  throw  in  a  large  teaspoon 
of  chopped  parsley,  pour  it  hot  over  the 
salmon.  Cut  a  lemon,  sqeeze  half  over 
the  salmon  and  garnish  with  the  other 
quarters,  and  sprigs  of  parsley. 


Cost  of  material — salmon  steak  aver- 
age 25,  lemon  and  parsley  2,  butter  4, 
potatoes,  1,  32c. 


Note — Salmon  steak  varies  in  price 
from  10c  to  $1,50  per  pound  raw  in  mar- 
ket according  to  place  and  season,  and 
restaurant  prices  accordingly. 


59— New  England  Boiled  Dinner. 


Price  in  first-class  restaurants  30c, 
including  bread,  butter,  and  condiments. 
Boil  3  or  4  pounds  corned  beef  for  3 
hours  or  longei:.  Also  \\  pounds  salt 
pork  about  1  hour. 

Cook,  cither  by  boiling  or  steaming, 
1  head  of  cabbage,  8  small  onions,  8 
pieces  each  of  carrots,  turnips,  parsnips, 
and  beets,  and  8  potatoes. 

To  serve,  put  a  portion  of  every  kind 
of  vegetable  in  orderly  shape  in  an  8-inch 
flat  platter  and  a  4-oz  slice  of  corned  beef 
and  2-oz  slice  of  salt  pork  on  top. 


Cost  of  material — 4  lbs  corned  beef  at 
7c  will  lose  one-half  by  bone  and  shrink- 
age— 8  4-oz  dishes  28c.  Salt  pork  8 
dishes  20c,  vegetables,  nearly  a  pound 
weight  in  each  dish,  equal  to  \\  lbs  gross 
raw  at  average  2c,  lb  for  all  kinds,  8 
dishes,  12  lbs,  24c— total  72c  for  8 
dishes,  9c  per  dish.  Add  bread,  butter 
and  condiments  to  cost.  Save  the  fry- 
ing fat  from  the  meat  boiler. 


Note.  Cheap  restaurants  serve  the 
above  dinner  for  15c,perhaps  for  less.  The 
quantities  can  be  cut  down  somewhat, 
the  beef  served  with  some  bone  in  it,  the 
vegetables  often  bought  for  less  than  half 
the  quoted  average  or  the  dearer  sorts 
left  out. 


60— Irish  Stew  With  Vegetables. 

Price  20c. 

It  should  be  observed  that  this  dish 
which  is  very  popular  if  properly  cooked 
is  utterly  worthless  when  the  meat  is  not 
stewed  tender. 

2  breasts  of  mutton — 4J  lbs. 

8  potatoes  cut,  or  16  small— 4  lbs. 

8  small  onions. 

2  turnips. 

A  bunch  of  parsley  and  thyme. 

Salt  and  pepper  and  thickening. " 

Saw  the  mutton  briskets  in  two  places 
lengthwise  across  the  bones  and  divide 
them  in  neat  lengths.  Put  them  on  in  3  or 
4  quarts  of  water  and  let  stew  3  hours. 
Parboil  all  the  vegetables  in  another 
saucepan,  then  drain  away  the  water  and 
put  them  in  with  the  mutton  and  let 
cook  about  an  hour  longer.  It  may  be 
necessary  to  keep  out  the  potatoes  if  they 
are  of  a  kind  that  break  when  done  and 
steam  them  separately.  Thicken  the  stew 
with  2  tablespoons  flour,  salt  and  pep- 
per to  taste  and  add  the  parsley  chopped. 

Dish  the  meat  equivalent  to  \  lb  raw 
weight,  and  a  potato,  onion  and  piece  of 
turnip  around,  and  plenty  of  the  sauce. 

Cost  of  material — meat  22,  potatoes 
4,  onions  and  turnips  4,  seasonings  and 
flour  2,  32c  for  8  dishes  or  about  4c  a 
dish.  Add  bread,  butter  and  condi- 
ments to  cost. 


61— Roast  Turkey. 

Price  35c;  with  cranberry  or  oyster 
sauce  40c. 

As  a  rule  a  turkey  that  weighs  10  lbs. 
raw,  drawn,  should  make  10  restaurant 
dishes  of  the  price — 2sidebones,  2  drum- 
sticks,  2  second  joints,    2  tail  pieces,  2 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


25 


neck  pieces,  all  split  through  and  divided 
as  necessary,  with  a  slice  of  the  breast 
upon  each  and  dressing  in  the  dish. 
This  proportion  can  only  be  kept  up  -with 
plump  turkeys  of  medium  size  large  and 
very  fat  ones  having  a  considerable 
weight  about  the  crop  and  neck  that 
cannot  be  utilized,  and  the  bone  cuts  be- 
ing too  large  and  coarse.  Young  and 
light  turkeys,  sometimes  no  larger  than 
common  hens  although  not  fat  are  good 
for  restaurant  use,  sometimes  admitting 
of  being  served  in  4  or  5  portions  only; 
light,  but  a  dishful. 

Pick  over  and  singe  the  turkey,  take 
off  the  wing  pinions  if  a  number  are  to 
be  cooked  together  as  they  make  a  good 
stewed  dish  and  are  but  little  cared  for 
when  roasted.  Wash, and  stuff  the  turkey 
with  bread  dressing,  truss  the  legs  in 
the  body.  Put  it  in  a  baking  pan  wi  h 
i\  handful  of  salt,the  fat  from  the  gizzard 
and  some  toppings  of  the  slock  boiler  and 
a  cup  of  water.  Roast  it  in  the  oven  about 
2  hours.  At  the  beginning  of  the  cook- 
ing keep  a  greased  sheet  of  paper  over 
it  to  prevent  blistering  the  skin  and  re- 
move it  later  to  baste  and  brown  the  tur- 
key. When  done  take  it  up,  pom  off 
the  grease  and  make  gravy  in  the  bak- 
ing pan. 

62— Stuffing    Fop  Turkey. 


63— Minced   Turlcey  with  a  Poached 

Egg- 


8  solid  cups  fine  minced  bread  crumbs, 

1  heaping  teaspoon  salt. 

1  heaping  teaspoon  black  pepper. 

1  heaping  teaspoon  ground  sage. 

2  cups  warm  water. 

1  heaping  cup  finely  minced  suet. 
Mix   all   together  but  not  mash  it  to 
Dastb,  and  stuff  the  turkey  with  it. 


Cost  of  stuffing — 2  lbs  stale  bread  10, 
5  oz  suet  4  seasonings  1 ;  15c. 


Cost  of  roast  turkey  stuffed — 10  lbs 
turkey  $1:80,  stuffing  15,  gravey  5; 
$2:00  for  10  dishes,  20c  dish. 


!     Price  35  cents  including  bread,  butter, 
potatoes  and  condiments . 

One  8  lb  turkey. 
i      2  cups  fine  bread  crumbs — 6  oz. 

3  pints  broth. 
i      3  heaping  tablespoons  browned  flour. 

1  small  onion. 

i      1  large  teaspoonful  black  pepper. 

2  of  salt, 
12  eggs. 

Either  boil  or  roast  the  turkey,  boiling 
is  the  better  way  when  the  turkey  is  old 
but  roasting  gives  the  better  flavor. 
Pick  all  the  meat  from  the  bones  and 
cut  it  in  very  small  dice,  mix  in  the  bread 
minced  extremely  fine.  An  8  lb  turkey 
only  yields  3  lbs  clear  meat — G  pressed 
cupfuls.  Put  the  turkey  bone,  skin  and 
pieces  of  tat  and  piece  of  onion  on  to  boil 
in  3  quarts  of  broth  and  boil  it  down  to 
3  pints.  Strain  off,  add  the  pepper  and 
salt,  thicken  with  the  browned  flour  and 
when  it  has  boiled  put  in  the  turkey 
meat  and  stir  until  quite  hot  through. 
Dish  a  cupful — \  lb — in  a  platter,  flatten 
the  top  and  place  one  poached  egg  up- 
on it. 


Cost  of  joaterial — turkey  at  18c  8 
lbs  $1,44,  bread  and  seasonings  5,  eggs 
20,  $l,G9forl2  dishes  about  14c  dish. 
Add  bread,  butter  and   potatoes  to  cost. 

Note — A  smaller  amount  can  be  made 
with  one  fowl  or  a  part  of  a  turkey  left 
over,  by  observing  the  same  proportions. 
When  no  poultry  fat  a  little  butter  should 
be  used  in  its  place.  A  chicken  makes 
3  or  4  large  dishes. 

64— Rabbit  Pot  Pie. 


Price  in  first-class  restaurants  30^  cents 
dish  of  about  1  ])ound. 

4  pounds  rabbit — 1  jack  or  4  commoii. 

10  ounces  salt  pork. 

1  small  onion  and  some  parsley. 

1  tablespoon  black  pepper. 

2  tablespoons  of  salt. 


2G 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


3  tablespoons  of  flour. 

2  pounds  flour  for  crust. 

Cut  up  the  rabbits ;  chop  of  the  thin  part 
of  the  ribs  and  throw  them  away,  divide 
down  the  back  and  make  4  pieces  of  it 
and  divide  the  legs  into  2  if  large.  Steep 
in  cold  water  to  wbiten  the  meat  and 
cleanse  thoroughly.  Boil  3  hours  in  4 
quarts  water,  or  until  reduced  to  2J 
quarts.  Cut  the  pork  into  strips  and 
fry  them  partially,  tne  onion  cut  up  in  the 
fat,and  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  brown  add 
them  to  the  stew.  Season  and  thicken, 
pour  the  stew  into  a  baking  pan  and  cov- 
er with  sofl  pot  pie  crust  (No  18)  made 
of  2  pounds  flour,  6  teaspoons  powder, 
8  caps  water  and  salt.  Bake  20  or  80 
minutes  basting  the  crust  with  the  stew 
liquor  at  last.  Dish  rabbit  equivalent  to 
J  pound  in  dish  with  gravy  and  light 
spongy  crust  on  top. 


Cost  of  material — ^rabbita  40,  pork 
10,  seasonings  2,  flour  7,  powder  8  oz  6c; 
C5c  for  8  dbhes  or  about  8c  dish. 


65— Macaroni  and  Tomatoes,  Italienne. 

Price  in  first-class  restaurants  15c — a, 
vegetable  side  dish  of  less  than  ^  pound. 

\  pound  macaroni — \  a  package. 

I  cup  grated  cheese. 

1  cup  thick  stewed  tomatoes. 

1  cup  brown  meat  gravy. 

Pepper. 

This  is  the  favorite  way  with  the  Ital- 
ians. The  dish  need  not  be  baked. 
They  simply  boil  the  macaroni  and  then 
make  it  rich,  not  to  say  greasy,  with  the 
other  articles  and  gravy  from  the  meat 
dishes. 

Break  the  macaroni  into  three-inch 
"lengths,  throw  it  into  boilmg  water  and 
let  cook  twenty  minutes.  Drain  it,  put 
it  into  a  baking  pan,  mix  in  the  grated 
cheese,  the  tomatoes,  the  gravy,  salt  and 
pepper  and,  if  necessary,  a  lump  of  but- 
ter. Mix  up  and  let  simmer  together 
about  half  an  hour,  either  in  a  slack 
oven  or  on  the  stove  hearth.  It  will  be 
all  eaten  if  not  made  too   strong  flavored 


with  tomatoes   or  too  salt — the  common 
mistakes. 


Cost  of  material — macaroni  10,  toma- 
toes a  pint  stewed  down  8,  cheese  2, 
gravy  2;  22c  for  6  or  8  dishes. 

66— Asparagus  on  Toast. 

Price  15c.  An  extra  vegetable  side 
dish  where  potatoes  are  given  free. 

Trim  off  the  ends  of  the  stalks  of  as- 
paragus, let  it  lie  in  cold  water  awhile. 
Have  the  water  ready  boiling,  put  in  a 
little  salt  and  a  pinch  of  baking  soda  size 
of  a  bean,  to  keep  the  asparagus  of  good 
color,  drop  in  the  asparagus  tied  in 
bunches  and  boil  gently  until  the  green 
end  is  tender,  from  1&  minutes  to  45 
minutes  according  to  age  and  thickness. 
Drain  without  breaking  off  the  heads. 
Serve  8  to  12  in  a  dish  with  a  slice  of 
buttered  toast  under  the  white  ends  and 
a  spoonful  of  melted  butter  poured  over 
the  heads  in  the  dish. 


Cost— According  to  the  market  and 
When  canned  asp  »ragus,  a  can 
makes  3  orders — asparagus  8,  toast  and 
butter  2,  10c  dish — ^restaurant  size. 


season, 


67— Plain  Fritters  With  Sauce. 


Price  served  as  a  pudding  dish  10c 
4  cups  flour — 1  pound. 

1  large  teaspoon   baking  powder. 

2  cups  water  slightly  warm. 

3  eggs. 

3  tablespoons  melted  lard« 

1  of  molasses. 

Pinch  of  salt. 

Lard  to  fry. 

Sift  tLe  flour  into  a  pan  and  throw  in 
the  powder,  make  a  hollow  in  middle, 
put  in  all  the  rest — the  water  not  quite 
cold  enough  to  set  the  shortening — and 
stir  up  thoroughly  into  a  soft  fritter 
dough.  It  may  need  another  basting 
spoon  of  water.  Beat  well.  Fry  large 
spoonfuls  in  hot  lard  or  good  fat  from 
the  meat  pans.  Serve  2  in  a  dish  with 
J  cup  of  sauce.     Makes  24  fritters  or  ac- 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


2T 


cording  to  size  and  how  light  the  dough 
is  made  by  beating. 

Cost  of  material — flour  3,  powder  1, 
eggs  5,  shortening  1,  molasses  1,  lard 
consumed  or  damaged  in  frying  8;  19c 
for  24  fritters — sauce  15 — 34  cents  for 
12  dishes,  3c  dish. 

68~Sauce  for  Fritters. 


4  cups  water — a  quart. 

Lemon  peel,  blade  of  mace,  few  cloves. 

2  cups  sugar. 

•J  cup  com  starch. 

Boil  the  water  with  the  flavoring  in 
it.  Mix  the  starch  in  the  sugar  dry, 
drop  it  into  the  water  quickly  and 
beat  with  the  egg  whisk.  Strain  into 
another  saucepan  and  simmer  at  the  side 
of  the  range  until  it  becomes  clear  like 
syrup. 

Cost  of  sauce — 3  pints  cost  15c. 

69— Baked    Apple   Dumplings    With 
Sauce. 

Price  as  pudding  10c 

For  large  restaurant  dish  make  the 


dumpling  of  a  whole  apple  but  of  a  size 
that  run  4  to  a  pound.  Make  the  plain 
paste  as  for  pies  at  Nos.  20  and  21. 

Pare  and  core  the  apples,  roll  the  paste 
out  to  a  large,  thin  sheet  on  the  table, 
slip  an  apple  under  the  edge,  gather  the 
paste  around  and  pinch  it  off  underneath. 
Bake  placed  close  together  in  a  moder- 
ate oven  until  the  apples  are  done  when 
tried  with  a  fork — generally  30  to  45^ 
minutes.     Serve  with  sauce. 


Cost  of  material — crust  each  2,  apples* 
at  4c  lb)  each  1,  3c  dish^ — ^with^auce  1, 
dish. 

70— Apple  Dumpling  Sauce. 

1 J  cups  boiling  water. 

1  cup  light  brown^ugar. 

•J  cup  butter. 

Nutmeg. 

1  tablespoon  flour,  large. 

Mix  flour  and  sugar  together  in  a 
saucepan  dry,  pour  the  boilmg  water  to 
them,  add  butter  and  grate  in  some  nut- 
meg, stir  over  the  fire  until  it  boils. 


Cost  of  sauce — 14 
orders  14c. 


or 


Scrapple 
is  made  thus:  Select  a  young  pig's 
head,  slit  the  ears  and  clean  them  and 
the  mouth  thoroughly  and  remove  the 
eyes,  cut  out  the  tongue,  scald  and 
skin  it.  '^ut  the  head  into  three 
gallons  of  cold  water  and  boil  slowly 
until  the  flesh  is  easily  removed  from 
the  bones.  Remove  the  scum  and 
take  out  the  head ;  reduce  the  meat 
to  a  mince,  return  it  to  the  liquid  and 
season  moderately  with  salt  and 
pepper;  mix  together  a  teaspoonful 
each  of  powdered  sage,  sweet  mar- 
joram and  thyme,  and  add  to  the 
meat.  Mix  together  a  quart  each  of 
Indian    meal  and   buck-wheat  flour, ' 


and  add  it  slowly  to  the  liquid,  stirring 
as  in  the  making  of  ordinary  mush. 
Should  the  fire  be  too  hot,  remove  the 
pot  to  the  back  of  the  range,  where  it 
will  boil  very  moderately  for  half  an 
hour.  Stir  until  ready  to  pour  it  into 
greased  pans,  where  it  is  to  remain 
until  solid.  Should  the  water  have 
evaporated  too  much  all  of  the  meal 
may  not  be  required,  and  on  the 
contrary,  you  may  require  more  meal 
if  it  has  not  evaporated  sufficiently. 
Cut  in  slices  about  one-quarter  of  an. 
inch  thick,  dredge  the  slices  with  fine 
meal,  and  fry  crisp  in  a  liberal  quan- 
tity of  smoking  lat.  Some  prefer  it 
fried  plain,  with  very  little  fat,  and 
browned  nlcelv  on  both  sides. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


RESTAURANT  SUPPER  DISHES. 
71— Soft-Shell  Crabs  Fried. 


Two  crabs  to  an  order,  common  price 
50c  including  bread,  butter,  potatoes  and 
condiments. 

Every  part  is  eatable  except  the  sand 
pouch  underneath,  which  pull  off  and 
wash  the  crab  in  cold  water.  Dry  on  a 
cloth,  bread  it  by  dipping  in  beaten  egg 
with  a  little  water  in  it  and  then  in 
cracker  meal  and  fry  in  hot  lard  until 
the  claws  are  crisp  and  the  crab  is  light 
brown.    Garnish  with  fried  parsley. 


Cost  of  material — crabs  12 Jc  each, 
lard  2,  breading  8,  accompaniments  6; 
36c.  

72— Soft-Shell  Crabs  Boiled. 


Pull  off  the  small  claws  and  the  sand 
pouch  and  wash.  Drop  the  crabs  into 
boiling  salted  water  and  cook  about  10 
minutes.  Serve  with  butter  sauce,  pars- 
ley sauce,  cream  sauce  or  mayonaise,  as 
ordered. 

Cost — 2  crabs  25,  sauce  2,  bread, but- 
ter, etc.  6;  35c. 


73— Pork  Tenderloin  Broiled  or  Fried. 


Price  in  first-class  restaurants  35  cts. 
including  the  usual  accessories. 

Pork  tenderloins  weigh  from  6  ounces 
to  a  pound  each.  The  large  ones  should 
be  split  part  way  and  opened  out  and 
flattened;  the  small  take  two  to  an  or- 
der not  split.  Season  aud  broil  same  as 
beefsteak  well  done,  or  saute  in  a  frying 
pan.  Serve  with  a  spoonful  of  butter 
over  and  a  border  of  fried  potatoes. 

Cost  of  material — pork  tenderloin  12, 
potatoes  1,  bread  and  butter  5,  condi- 
ments 2;  20c. 

74— Pork  Tenderlofn   With  Fried  Ap- 
ples. 

The  tenderloin  cooked  by  broiling  or 
frying.     The  apples  instead  of   potatoes. 


Slice  two  apples  across  the  core  with- 
out pairing  or  coring;  dip  the  slices  in 
flour  and  lay  them  in  a  large  fryingpan  in 
which  is  a  little  hot  drippings  or  lard.  Fry 
one  side  brown  then  turn  them  over  with 
a  broad  knife.  This  is  one  of  the  things 
that  IS  done  right  only  in  a  few  places,un- 
skillful  hands  get  the  apples  "mussed 
up"  and  greasy.  Some  kinds  of  apples 
fry  well  enough  without  flour. 

Dish  up  on  the  edge  of  the  hot  dish 
around  the  tenderloin,  chop  or  salt  pork. 

Cost — apples  at  .4c  pound  2  apples 
weigh  ^  pound ,  frying-fat  Ic,  2  or  3 
cents  a  dish. 


75— Honeycomb  Tripe  Broiled  or  Fried. 

Price  35  cents,  including  bread,  but- 
ter, potatoes  and  condiments. 

Quite  a  specialty  in  some  restaurants. 
Cut  pieces  of  about  12  ounces,  they  are 
nearly  twice  as  large  as  the  open  hand, 
dip  both  sides  in  flour,  broil  in  the  hinged 
wire  broiler,  brush  liberally  with  butter 
and  serve  the  honeycomb  side  upwards 
with  the  butter  in  a  froth  upon  it.  Serve 
potatoes  either  around  it  or  in  a  separate 
dish,  according  to  kind.  Can  be  fried 
(sawteed)  in  a  frying-pan  in  a  little  but- 
ter after  flouring  in  the  same  way  with- 
out breading,  but  will  not  brown  very 
well  without  the  butter. 


Cost  of  material — tripe  12,    butter  to 
sauce  2,  extras  6;  20c. 


76— Ham  and  Eggs— Restaurant. 

First-class  price  45  cents,  including 
bread,  butter,  potatoes  and   condiments. 

Medium-sized  hams  should  be  selected, 
the  very  small  ones  being  too  lean,  salt 
and  hard,  and  the  very  large  not  making 
handsome  cuts.  Shave  off  the  outside, 
cut  slices  clear  across,  very  thin,  down 
to  the  bone,  drive  a  skewer  into  the 
block  down  by  the  bone  to  steady  it  and 
saw  through  with  a  small  sharp  saw 
kept'for  the  purpose.  This  is  a  difficult 
and  trying  joo  with  a  soft  ham  unless 
good  tools   are   kept  to  work   with,  and 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


29 


the  ham  is  very  liable  to  be  torn  and 
hacked  in  a  very  wasteful  manner.  The 
elices  of  ham  weigh  from  5  or  6  ounces 
to  12  ounces  according  as  cut. 

Broil  the  ham  about  6  minutes,  lay  it 
in  a  hot  dish.  Fry  3  eggs,  half  turned 
over  and  dish  them  side  by  side  with 
the  ham. 


Cost  of  material — (allowing  for  waste, 
butt  and^shank)  ham  12,  eggs  6.  pota- 
toes 1,  bread  and  butter  5,  condiments 
1;  25c. 


77— Omelet  With  Jelly. 


First-class  price,  omelet  with  3  eggs 
25  cents. 

Break  3  eggs  into  a  bowl,  put  in  with 
them  3  tablespoons  milk.  Beat  to  mix 
but  not  to  make  it  too  light.  Put  a 
bastingspoonful  of  the  clear  part  of  melted 
butter,  into  the  frying  pan,  pour  in  the 
omelet  without  waiting  for  the  butter  to 
^  get  hotand  discolored,  let  cook  gradually, 
shaking  it  frequently  to  the  further  side 
of  the  pan  until  the  thin  edge,  forced  up- 
ward, faUs  over  ioto  the  middle.  When 
it  is  nicely  browned  and  the  upppr  side 
just  set,  put  current  jelly  or  other  fruit 
jelly  in  a  long  line  in  the  middle  that  is 
made  hollow  in  the  further  side  of  the 
pan  for  the  purpose.  Roll  so  as  to  shut 
in  the  jelly,  slide  it  smooth  side  up  on  to 
a  hot  dish,  dredge  powdered  sugar  on 
ton  and  mark  it  with  slanting  cross-bars 
by  touching  the  sugar  with  a  red-hot 
wire  or  spoon  handle. 

Cost  of  material— eggs  8, butter  to  fry 
3,  jelly  5,  sugar  1;  17c. 

78— Omelet  With  Oysters. 

Frist-class  price  50  cents,  made  with 

^  dozen  large  oysters. 

3  eggs. 

Milk,  butter,  seasonings. 

Cook  the  oysters  rare  done  in  a  little 
saucepan  separately,  with  a  spoonful  of 
milk,  scrap  of  butter  aud  thickening  to 
make  white  sauce  of  the  liquor. 


Break  the  eggs  in  a  bowl,  put  in  a 
spoonful  of  milk  and  beat  with  the  wire 
e^^  whisk.     Add  a  pinch  of  salt. 

Shake  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  lard 
or  clear  butter  about  in  the  omelet  frying 
pan  and  before  it  gets  very  hot  pour  in 
the  omelet  and  let  it  cook  rather  slowly. 

Properly  made  omelets  are  not  exactly 
rolled  up,  but  there  is  a  knack,  to  be 
learned  of  shaping  them  in  the  pan  by 
shaking  while  cooking  into  one  side  of  it, 
the  side  farthest  from  you,  while  you 
keep  the  handle  toward  you  raised  high- 
er. Loosen  the  edges  with  a  knife  when 
it  is  nearly  cooked  enough  to  shake.    ' 

When  the  omelet  is  nearly  done  to  the 
center  place  the  oysters  with  i  spoon  in 
the  hollow  middle  and  pull  over  the  fur- 
ther edge  to  cover  them  in.  Slide  on  to 
the  dish,  smooth  side  up.  Garnish  with 
parsley  and  lemon. 

One  reason  of  omelets  and  all  fried 
eggs  sticking  to  the  frying  pan  is  allow- 
ing the  pan  to  get  too  hot.  They  seldom 
stick  when  poured  into  a  pan  that  is 
only  kept  warm  till  wanted.  The  pans 
should  be  kept  for  no  other  purpose,  and 
be  rubbed  smooth  after  using,  if  not 
bright. 

Cost  of  material — oysters  10,  eggs  8, 
butter,  sauce,  seasonins^s  4,  garnish  2, 
table  extras  6;  30c. 

79— Oyster  Omelet. 


iilake  the  omelet  according  to  direc- 
tions preceding  and  pour  over  it  when 
done  and  in  the  dish  the  oysters  cut  in 
pieces  in  a  brown  sauce  as  follows. 

Put  a  large  J  cup  of  oysters  into  a 
frying-pan  with  their  liquor,  and  salt 
and  pepper  and  keep  them  in  motion  by 
shaking  over  the  fire  until  they  are  soft- 
cooked.  Take  up  with  a  skimmer  and 
cut  them  in  pieces. 

Stir  a  heaping  teaspoon  of  sifted  flour 
and  twice  the  measure  of  butfer  together 
in  a  very  small  saucepan  over  the  fire 
until  light  brown,  add  J  cup  milk  aud 
the  cooked  oyster  liquor,  if  any,  and 
when  it  has  boiled  up  put  in  the  cut  oys- 


30 


SAN  FBANGISGO  HOTEL  OAZETTirS 


tere.    Add  the  juice    of  a  quarter    of 
lemon. 

The  above  brown  oyster  sauce  should 
be  prepared  before  the  omelet,  is  cooked 
as  omelets  are  not  good  unless  eaten  as 
soon  as  done. 

Cost,  the  same  as  omelet  with  oysten? 
preceding.    J  cup  oysters  is  ^  doz  large. 

80~Liver  and  Bacon  Broiled.. 

First-class  price  35  cents,  including 
potatoes,  bread,  butter  and  condiments. 

i  pound  slice  of  calfs  liver. 

3  ounces  breakfast  bacon. 

Cut  the  liver  broad  and  thin,  pepper 
and  salt,  dip  both  sides  in  flour,  broil 
and  while  it  is  cooking  brush  it  over 
with  soft  butter. 

Fry  the  2  slices  of  bacon  first,  then 
finish  on  the  gridiron.  Serve  the  liver 
with  the  butter  frothing  upon  it,  the  ba- 
con on  top  and  potatoes  around  in  the 
dish. 


Coot  of  material.  The  supply  of  call's 
liver  is  never  equal  to  the  demand  and 
the  butchers  easily  get  25c  per  pound. 
Beef  liver  has  to  be  the  main  reliance 
for  this  dish  and  can  be  had  much 
cheaper.  Liver  average  10,  bacon  (al- 
lowing for  waste  in  cutting)  6,  butter  1, 
potatoes  1,  bread,  butter,  etc.  5;  23c. 

81— Welsh   Rarebit    or  Canapes  au 
Fromage. 

First-class  price  40  cents. 

4  to  G  ounces  good  cheese. 

Butter  size  of  an  egg — 2  ounces. 

J  cup  of  ale. 

2  yolks  of  eggs. 

Little  cayenne  and  salt. 

4  thin  pieces  of  toast. 

Chop  the  cheese  small,  throw  it  and 
tho  butter  into  a  little  saucepan  and  as 
they  get  warm  mash  them  together. 
When  softened  add  the  yolks  and  ale 
and  pinch  of  cayenne  and  salt.  Stir  till 
it  is  creamy,  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  for 
that  would  spoil  it.     Place  th**   pHcpa  of 


toast  on  a  dish,  pour  the  creamed  cheese 
upon  them  and  set  inside  the  oven  about 
two  minutes.  The  ale  only  heightens 
the  flavor,  and  some   prefer  to  use  milk. 

The  simplest  form  of  Welsh  rarebit  is 
a  slice  of  cheese  placed  on  a  slice  of 
bread  and  baked  in  the  oven.  It  de- 
pends upon  the  quality  of  the  cheese  a  good 
deal   whether  it  will  prove   satisfactory. 

And  an  addition  to  canapes  au  from- 
age is  sometimes  made  in  the  form  of  a 
nicely-poached  eg*  on  the  top  of  each 
canape,  in  the  hot  cheese.  This  dish 
then  goes  by  the  fanciful  name  of  the 
"golden  buck" — at  least  it  has  been  so 
named  in  a  few  places  where  price  was 
no  object  and  specialties  paid. 

Cost  of  material — cheese  8,  butter  4, 
ale  4,  eggs  5,  toast  1,  table  extras  4; 
26c. 

With  poached   eggs  on  top,   cost 
creased  and  price  indefinite. 

82— Minced   Potatoes. 


m- 


This  likewise  has  been  a  restaurant 
specialty  and  has  been  known  as  of 
great  effect  in  drawing  trade.  It  ought 
to  be  observed,  however,  that  it  takes  a 
considerable  allowance  o^  butter  in  the 
pan  to  give  the  potatoes  the  fine  yellow- 
brown,  and  appetizing  flavor  that  will 
draw  the  people  from  a  distance  of  many 
blocks  to  breakfast  or  supper. 

Chop  cold  boiled  potatoes  quite  fine 
and  season  with  salt.  Spread  a  spoon- 
ful of  drippings  or  butter  in  an  omelet- 
pan  or  small  frying-pan  and  plac*^  the 
minced  potatoes  about  an  inch  deep. 
Cook  on  top  of  the  range  like  a  cake, 
without  stirring.  Invert  a  plate  that 
just  fits  the  pan  over  the  potatoes.  Let 
them  brown  nicely  and  slowly,  then  turn 
over  on  to  the  plate.  Push  in  the  edge 
a  little  all  around  and  serve  on  the  same 
plate  with  the  brown  on  top.  There  are 
oval  shaped  pans  that  make  these  suita- 
ble for  a  platter,  and  even  in  the  round 
frying-pan  it  can  be  managed  to  give  the 
cake  the  platter  shape. 


GOOKINO  FOR  PROFIT. 


31 


83— Corn  Meal  Mush  and  Milk. 


One  of  the  floating  parag^raphs  of  the 
day  is  concerning  a  noted  British  journa- 
list who  cannot  bring  himself  to  like  com 
meal  and  says  unfavorable  things  about  it 
Bnch  as  paying  it  is  nothing  but  oatmeal 
with  a  flavor  of  mice.  He  has  evidently 
been  trying  yellow  meal,  and  probably 
that  not  properly  cooked.  An  early 
training  "down  south"  convinced  the 
writer  of  these  lines  that  there  is  much 
more  in  com  meal  than  is  generally  sup- 
posed, and  various  people  who  have 
tried  his  methods  have  expressed  a 
pleased  surprise.  It  is  no  use,  however, 
to  try  to  gain  favor  tor  yellow  com  meal. 
Its  strong  flavor  may  be  agreeable  to 
such  as  have  been  accustomed  to  it  since 
childhood,  but  their  preferences  will  not 
be  shared  by  many.  Always  use  white 
com  meal,  coarsely  ground  and  free  from 
flour,  make  the  mush  with  all  the  water 
it  will  take  up,  have  it  as  soft  and  jelly- 
like to  fry  as  it  can  well  be  cut  and 
handled  when  cold;  be  careful  to  salt  it 
right  and  fry  it  handsomely  and  you  will 
find  com  meal  in  its  different  forms  of 
mush  jnd  milk,  fried  mush,  com  bread, 
muffins,  batter-cakes,  com  meal  pud- 
dings, and  others,  an  article  so  pleasant 
to  the  palate  that  it  soon  comes  to  be  re- 
garded as  one  of  the  indispensibles. 
While  it  is  true  the  negro  cooks  of  the 
south  have  had  almost  the  monopoly  of 
the  art  of  cooking  com  meal  it  will  not  do 
to  admit  that  what  they  accomplish 
through  the  simple  habit  of  doing,  cannot 
as  well  be  done  by  the  exercise  of  intelli- 
gent judgement.     Take 


2  heaping  cnps  white  com  meal, 

8  cups  water. 

1  rounded  tablespoon  salt. 

Where  the  mush  has  to  be  made  on  a 
cook  stove,  a  cast  pot  with  feet,  to  raise 
the  bottom  an  inch  from  the  fire,  is  the 
best  vessel  to  use.  It  lessens  the  ten- 
dency to  bum  and  reduces  tlie  waste  if 
the  inside  is  brushed  over  with  a  touch 
of  lard  or  drippings.  Put  the  salt  in  the 
water,  boil,  and  sprinkle  the  dry  meal 
in  with  one  hand  while  you  beat  with  an 
egg-beater  or  spoon  in  the  other.  Put 
on  the  lid,  and  let  simmer  with  the  steam 
shut  in  for  about  three  hours. 

If  carefully  cooked  wiih  a  lid  on  and 
not  bumt  there  will  be  as  much  mush  as 
there  was  water  put  in,  that  is  two 
quarts. 

Double  the  quantity  needed  for  one 
meal  should  be  made  and"  half  put  away 
to  become  cold  to  fry.  For  this  purpose 
very  slightly  grease  a  pan,  press  the 
mush  in  evenly,  and  slightly  brush  over 
with  melted  lard  again.  No  matter  how 
little  the  grease,  it  prevents  the  forma- 
tion i»f  a  crust  by  drying  on  top. 

Each  quart  of  cold  mush  will  cut  into 
about  ten  slices  or  blocks  for  frying. 


Cost  of  mush  and  milk— com  meal  4, 
milk  2  quarts  16—20  cents  for  8  half 
pmtb  milk  and  8  half  pints  mush  or  2^ 
each  pint  bowl. 


Note — mush  and  milk  served  as  a 
first  course  for  supper  or  breakfast  in 
hotels  is  but  a  spoonful  in  each  bowl; 
perhaps  a  third,  or  less,  of  the  restau- 
rant bowl  above  specified. 


Hominy  MufRns. 

Pound  one  pint  of  cold  boiled 
hominy  to  a  smooth  paste,  add  to  it 
half  a  pint  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  a  heaping  tabl*»spoonful  of 
baking  powder.  Beat  the  yolks  and 
whites  of  two  eggs  separately,  add  to 


the  yolks  two  ounces  of  butter,  same 
of  sugar,  and  a  scant  pint  of  luke- 
warm milk.  Mix  these  ingredients 
together  and  stir  into  the  flour,  mix 
quickly,  pour  the  batter  into  hot,  weil- 
buttered  muffin  rings,  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven. 


32 


SAN  FBANCISGO  MOTEL  GAZETTES 


HOTEL  BREAKFAST  DISHES. 

84-^'Old-Fashioned"    Broiled    Beef- 
steak and  Gravy. 


Take  a  whole  Birloin  or  other  steak  as 
cut  by  the  butcher,  notch  the  edges  to 
prevent  curling  up  on  the  gridiron  and 
beat  it  out  on  the  block  more  or  less  ac- 
cording to  its  thickness  or  the  greater  or 
less  tenderness  of  the  meat,  for  the  ex- 
perienced cook  is  ble  to  imnroye  a  poor 
steak  considerably. 

Put  a  shovelful  of  charcoal  m  the  ash 
pan  of  the  range  and  some  live  coals  from 
the  fire  on  that,  cover  with  a  pan  or  oth- 
er means  of  making  a  draft  over  the 
coals.  Rub  the  bars  of  the  griduron  with 
a  piece  of  bacon  rind,  lay  the  whole 
steak  upon  it  and  cook  medium  well 
done  over  the  charcoal  when  it  has 
burned  clear.  Have  a  piece  of  butter 
ready  in  a  tin  pan  with  a  heaping  tea- 
spoon of  good  black  pepper  and  two  cf 
salt,  put  in  the  hot  steak  and  press  it 
into  the  butter,  making  the  gravy  run 
out,  add  half  a  cup  of  Hot  water,  set  the 
pan  and  contents  over  the  coals  and 
when  it  begins  to  simmer  the  gravy  and 
pepper  will  have  thickened  the  water 
and  made  a  good  gravy. 

Dish  up  on  a  large  hot  platter,  carve 
in  pieces  about  the  size  of  two  or  three 
fingers  and  serve  a  spoonful  of  the  gravy 
with  each  cut. 

The  next  thing  to  broiling  for  that  kind 
of  beefsteak  is  frying  over  the  fire,  but  a 
little  piece  in  a  pan  does  not  come  out 
natural-looking,  but  bums  around  the 
edges — it  must  be  a  full  pan  or  nothing. 

Good  broiling  can  be  done  in  a  hinged 
wire  broiler  set  over  the  open  hole  of  a 
stove,  but  forethought  is  required  to  let 
the  fire  bum  down  to  a  bed  of  glowing 
coals  in  time  for  it,  and  to  tum  the  dam- 
per so  that  the  draft  will  be  strong 
enoug,b  to  carry  tbe  smoke  up  the  chim- 
ney. Some  families  and  others  are 
made  miserable  by  having  their  so-called 
broiled  meats  always  tasting  of  smoke 
and  coal  smoke  at  that.     This  is  some- 


thing  that  calls  for  the   exercise  of  com- 
mon sense. 

Cost  of  family  beefsteak  and  gravy — 
2  pounds  steak  at  12c  loses  one-fourth 
bone,  fat  and  cooking,  24  ounces  costs 
24  cents, — butter  and  seasoninp-  8 — 3 
ounces  of  meat  to  each  order,  32  cents 
for  8  orders  or  4c  each  person. 

85— Individual  Beefsteaks. 

This  method  practiced  by  a  domestic 
cook  has  been  known  to  give  extreme 
satisfaction  to  a  large  houseful  of  people 
when  a  so-called  first-class  cook  had  ut^ 
terly  failed  to  fill  the  requirements  of  the 
place. 

Order  the  steak  from  the  butcher  cut 
thin,  and  divide  it  in  pieces  weighing  2 
ounces — about  the  size  of  4  fingers.  Lay 
your  steak  on  a  board  of  hard  wood 
and  pound  it  down  thin  with  the  hack 
edge  of  a  heavy  knife.  Fry  the  steaks 
as  wanted  in  frying  pans  slightly  greased 
and  let  cook  only  2  or  3  minutes  and 
send  in  hot  without  gravy.  All  the 
merit  of  this  plan  is  in  the  sort  of  blunt 
chopping  with  the  knife-back,  that 
spreads  out  the  meat,  gristle  and  all  as 
thin  as  the  edge  of  a  dinner  plate, 

86— Minced  Beefsteak. 


4J  cups  lean  beef  minced 

1^  cnps  beef  fat  minced. 

^  cup  cold  water. 

1  heaping  teaspoon  salt. 

Same  of  black  pepper. 

Or,  3  pounds  meat,  one  fourth  of  it 
tat,  chopped  and  seasoned  like  sausage 
and  a  little  water  added. 

Take  the  thick  part  of  beef  flank  or 
any  that  is  tender  but  that  looks  too 
stringy  and  rough  for  steaks,  cut  both 
lean  and  fat  clear  of  such  skin  and  gris- 
tle as  will  not  chop  nicely.  Mince  it  in 
a  bowl  and  when  finished  and  seasoned 
press  it  in  a  2  quart  pan  and  when  to  be 
cooked  cut  in  slices  like  beefsteaks  and 
fry  on  both  sides,  and  serve  with  its  own 
gravy  poured  over  it.  It  should  be  made 
fresh  every  day. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


33 


Cost — indefinite.  It  is  an  expedient 
for  using  up  the  best  part  of  an  unhandy 
piece  of  meat  in  a  way  that  saves  buying 
perhaps  a  first-class  steak,  while  the 
pieces  that  cannot  be  minced  are  used  to 
make  soup  or  stew. 

87— Plain  Omelet 

Two  eggs  and  one  teaspoonful  of  milk. 
Add  a  pineh  of  salt,  beat  in  a  bowl 
enough  to  thoroughly  mix  but  not  make 
ir  too  light,  as  if  the  omelet  rises  like  a 
souffle  it  will  go  down  again,  so  much 
the  worse. 

Pour  into  a  small  frying  pan,  or  ome- 
let pan,  in  which  is  one  tablespoonful  of 
the  clear  part  of  melted  butter,  and  fry 
like  tried  eggs.  But  when  partly  set 
run  a  knife  point  around  to  loosen  it  and 
begin  to  shake  the  omelet  over  to  the 
farther  side  of  the  pan  until  the  thin 
further  edge  forced  upward  falls  buck 
into  the  omelet..  When  the  under  side 
has  a  good  color,  and  the  middle  is  iicar- 
ly  set,  roll  the  brown  side  uppermost, 
with  a  knife  to  help,  and  slide  the  omelet 
on  to  a  hot  dish.  Serve  immediately 
while  it  is  light  and  soft. 

88— Omelet  with  Parsley. 

Mix  a  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley 
with  the  omelet  mixture  while  beating  it 
up.  Make  as  directed  in  the  preceding 
article. 


89— Omelet  with  Onions  and  Parsley. 

Mince  two  table  spoonfuls  of  onion  and 
fry  it  in  a  little  lard  in  a  frying-pan  with 
a  plate  inverted  upon  it.  In  five  min- 
utes take  up  the  minced  onion  without 
grease  and  add  it  to  the  omelet  mixture 
made  ready  with  parsley  in  it;  stir  up 
and  fry  as  directed  in  plain  omelet. 

90— OmeleTwith    Ham. 

Have  ready  on  the  table  some  grated 
or  minced  lean  ham  in  a  dish.  Pour  a 
plain  omelet  of  two  eggs  into  the  frying- 
pan  and  strew  over  the  surface  about 
a  tablespoonful  of  the  grated  ham. 


91— Omelet  with    Cheese. 


^lake  in  the  same  manner  as  ham  om- 
elet, with  grated  cheese  instead  of  ham, 

92— Omelet  with    Tomatoes. 


Stew  tomatoes  down  nearly  dry,  sea- 
son with  butter,  pepper  and  salt.  In- 
close a  spoonful  in  the  middle  of  an  om- 
elet according  to  the  preceeding  exam- 
ples. 

Cost  of  omelets.  Omelets  are  kept 
off  the  bill  of  fare  more  on  account  of  the 
time  and  attention  required  to  cook  them 
properly  than  because  of  their  cost  whioh 
is  only  from  ^c  to  Ic  more  than  the  eggs 
alone  would  be.  This  is  speaking  of 
hotel  and  family  orders  where  the  added 
seasoning^  is  but  about  a  tablespoonful, 
and  not  of  omelets  with  asparagus, 
points  or  other  rarities.  Eggs  vary  in 
price  from  6  cents  per  dozen  in  country 
places  to  60  cents  in  the  cities  at  mid- 
winter. 


93— Scrambled  Eggs. 

Not  to  be  beaten  up  like  an  omelet 
but  only  stirred  about.  Put  a  spoonful 
of  melted  butter  or  butter  and  lard  into 
the  small  frying-pan,  and  then  two  eggs, 
sprinkle  pepper  and  salt.  Stir  the  eggs 
about  a  dozen  times  around  with  a  fork. 
Pile  in  the  middle  of  a  little  flat  dish  be- 
fore they  get  cooked  too  hard. 

Note.  The  oeufs  (eggs)  brouilles  aux 
truffles  y  or  aux  poinies  d  ^  aspergeSy  often 
named  in  menus  are  scrambled  o^gswith 
truffles  and  asparagus  and  similar  acces- 
sories, the  word  brouille  being  of  the 
same  derivation  as  our  broil,  signifying 
a  row,  being  in  a  tumult,  stirred  up, 

94 — Shirred  Eggs. 

Some  people  keep  little  yellow  ware 
dishes  for  this  purpose,  or  other  dishes  that 
cannot  be  damaged  by  baking.  Spread 
with  a  teaspoon  a  slight  coating  of  soft 
butter  over  the  inside  of  the  dish,  drop 
in   two   eggs,  not  beaten,  and  set    them 


84 


SAN  FRANCISGO  HOTEL  QAZETTE8 


inside  the  oven,  or,  perliaps,  on  the  top 
of  the  range  on  one  side.  Try  by  shak- 
ing, and  take  them  from  the  fire  when 
the  whites  are  quite  cooked.  Send  ia 
the  same  dish  set  in  a  flat  one. 

95— Fried  Eggs. 


These  are  the  most  called-for  of  any 
form  in  which  eggs  are  cooked  and  there 
is  the  widest  possible  difference  between 
the  work  of  a  skilful  and  unskilful  cook 
in  this  particular.  The  fried  eggs  that 
are  a  dis^^iace  to  any  table  are  broken  as 
to  the  yolks  before  they  go  in  the  pan, 
then  they  have  black  grease  simmering 
up  all  around  the  edges  and  running 
over  their  surface,  they  are  cooked  near- 
ly as  hard  as  leather,  they  stick  to  the 
pan  and  cannot  be  turned  over  and  final- 
\y  when  they  are  forcibly  pushed  into  a 
dish  the  same  smoky,  black  grease  flows 
around  them  like  gravy.  That  it  should 
happen  so  sometimes  is  nothing  to  be  re- 
marked, but  these  lines  are  prompted  by 
amazement  that  some  will  go  on  frying 
eggs  that  way  always  and  habitually 
and  do  not  se::m  to  know  that  anything 
is  wrong. 

To  fry  the  eggs  cleanly  and  hand- 
somely, keep  the  small  frying  pans  al- 
ways rubbed  clean,  if  not  bright,  and 
never  set  them  empty  upon  the  range  but 
keep  them  warm  on  the  bar  along  the 
front  of  it  or  on  a  hot  shelf  or  a  row  of 
bricks  at  the  back. 


96— Poached  Eggs. 

Also  called  dropped  eggs. 

It  is  no  trouble  to  poach  eggs  hand- 
fomely  if  two  or  three  niles  are  ob- 
served. 

Have  a  roomy  vessel  with  plenty  of 
water,  the  frying-pan  shape  is  good,  but 
it  is  not  deep  enough.  Have  a  little  salt 
in  the  water.  Never  let  the  water  boO 
furiously  after  the  eejgs  are  in,  as  that 
breaks  them;  keep  it  gently  simmering 
at  the  sides. 

The  eggs  break  and  are  wasted  be- 
causu  wLen  first  dropped  they  go  heavily 


to  the  hot  bottom  and  there  eticft^  to  pre- 
vent which  set  the  water  in  motion  by 
stirring  it  around  with  a  spoon.  The 
eggs  dropped  in  are  carried  around  a 
moment  and  the  white  cooks  sufliciently 
to  prevent  adhesion. 

Break  the  eggs  carefully  into  little 
dishes  and  drop  into  the  water  one  at  a 
time.  Take  them  out  with  a  perforated 
ladle. 

Serve  either  well  drained  in  a  small 
deep  dish  and  a  speck  of  butter  on  top 
or  else  laid  neatly  on  a  trimmed  slice  of 
buttered  toast. 

97'-Boiled  Eggs. 

The  best  furnished  hotel  kitchens 
have  a  kettle  much  like  a  long  fish  ket- 
tle in  appearance,and  a  number  of  tin  has- 
kets,each  wiih  its  handle, that  fi  tin  side  by 
side.  The  kettle  is  full  of  boiling  water, 
and  the  baskets  with  diflerent  orders  of 
eggs,  can  be  withdrawn  without  disturb- 
ing the  others.  One  hand  is  detailed  to 
attend  to  the  e^  boiling,  and  he  has 
sand  glasses  to  time  them  by,  or  a  clock, 
or  both.  At  ordinary  levels  two  or  three 
minutes  for  soft-boiled  and  four  or  five 
for  hard-boiled  is  the  rule,  but  at  great 
altitudes  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  as 
much  as  eight  minutes  is  the  least  time 
for  hard-boiled  eggs.  The  low  point 
at  which  water  boils  is  the  reason  for  the 
difference. 


98— Fried  Mush. 


Take  the  pan  of  cold  mush  that  was 
set  away  over  night,  hold  over  the  fire  a 
minute  and  shake  it  on  the  table.  Cat 
a  quart  of  mush  into  8  pieces.  Roll 
them  in  cracker  meal  mixed  with  flour, 
then  in  milk,  then  in  the  cracker  meal 
mixture  again,  let  them  lie  in  it  to  get  a 
good  coating.  Drop  into  a  frying  pan 
half  full  of  clear  drippings  made  very 
hot  first,  and  let  fry  light  brown. 

Cost — Mush  3,  breading  4,  fat  or  lard 
4;  11  cents,  or  from  1  to  1^  each  per- 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


85 


99— Fried  Mush  Egged  and  Breaded. 

1  quart  cooked  mneh. 

1  pound  cracker  meal. 

2eggj». 

•J  pound  fat  to  fry. 

Mix  3  tablespoonfuls  milk  or  water 
with  the  egg^  and  beat  up.  Roll  the 
pieces  of  mush  in  it  and  then  in  the  crack- 
er meal  and  fry  a  handsome  brown  in  hot 
lard  in  a  sauce  pan  deep  enough  to  im- 
merse them. 


Cost  of  material — Neither  the  cracker 
meal  nor  the  lard  will  be  all  used  but  an 
allowance  should  be  made  for  waste  or 
deterioration  of  what  is  left  over.  Mush 
3,  eggs  4,  cracker-meal  8,  lard  8;  23c 
for  8  to  12  orders — say  2Jc  each  person. 


100— Corned-Beef  Hash. 


Some  of  the  worst  blunders  the  half- 
made  cooks  commit  are  in  making  hash. 
Corned-beef  hash  can  be  made  a  real 
^lelicflcy,  good  to  look  at  with  no  appear- 
ance of  mystery  about  it,  the  pink  meat 
fair  and  cleanly  in  the  smooth  and  clean 
potato,  and  good  to  taste  being  more 
tempting  to  a  fickle  appetite  than  solid 
beefsteak.  It  is  not  necessarily  a  very 
cheap  dish  although  it  is  convenient  as  a 
means  of  using  a  remainder  of  corned 
beef  to  make  room  for  a  fresh  boiling. 
Th«  attempt  to  make  hash  very  cheap 
by  making  it  the  general  receptacle  for 
all  sorts  of  pieces  is  a  penny  wise  and 
pound-foolish  proceeding,  for  nobody 
wants  it  and  it  is  thrown  away  at  last 
and  through  that  and  other  blunders  it 
has  come  to  be  at  last  that  hash  cannot 
even  be  given  away  at  a  free  lunch.  The 
writer  of  these  lines  has  seen  the  officers 
of  the  finest  vessels  afloat  send  a  special 
request  to  the  kitchen  for  dishes  of  the 
deck  hands'  fresh  made  hot  and  savory 
comed-bcef  hash  for  their  breakfast  in 
preference  to  all  that  was  upon  the  table, 
and  the  passengers  who  had  made  its 
acquaintance  followed  up  the  hint  and 
found  out  the  place  where  hash  was  good. 


There  is  no  elaborate  receipt  to  follow 
these  remarks,  the  necessity  in  the  case 
is  not  to  put  things  in,  but  to  keep  things 
out.  Keep  out  the  cold  turnips.  Keep 
out  the  cold  mashed  potatoes  even,if  thev 
are  not  uncommonly  good  and  fresh.  It 
has  been  shown  a  little  way  back  in  regard 
to  the  cost  of  potatoes,  that  two  large 
ones  are  worthless  than  half  a  cent,  and 
the  water  added  when  they  are  mashed 
cheapens  them  still  more.  Mashed  tur- 
nip it  still  more  worthless.  Keep  out 
the  black  and  bard  scraps  and  ends  of 
meat,  they  will  give  a  color  and  appear- 
ance and  stale  taste  that  will  cause  the 
mess  to  be  thrown  out,  the  good  to  be 
lost  with  the  bad.  Keep  out  the  onions. 
This  is  the  last  thing  that  will  be  agreed 
to.  Cooks  of  hotels  have  been  known 
to  quit  the  house  rather  than  they  would 
leave  the  onions  out  of  the  hash*  But 
the  people  who  live  in  the  expensive  class 
of  hotels  will  leave  the  dish  alone  if  you 
do  not,  and  if  they  despise  it  who  else  is 
going  to  bring  hash  in  fashion  again?  It 
is  in  the  interest  of  true  economy  to 
make  hash  popular,  because  it  uses  up 
corned  beef,  which  is  too  plentiful.  To 
make  **dry  hash"  that  will  be  eatea^nd 
enjoyed,  take: 

1  pressed-in  cup  minced  corned  beef. 

4  medium  potatoes — 1  pound. 

^  a  level  teaspoon  good  black  pepper. 

1  level  teaspoon  salt. 

1  ounce  fresh  butter. 

A  spoonful  of  hot  water. 

Shave  oflF  all  discolored  outside  of 
meat.  Chop  as  fine  as  pepper-corns  or 
wheat  in  a  wooden  bowl  with  a  chopping 
knife,  add  the  pepper,  salt  and  butter  to 
it.  Pare  the  potatoes  raw,  steam  or  boil 
them,  put  them  to  the  meat  boiling  hot 
and  mash  together.  It  is  not  of  much 
consequence  whether  it  is  to  be  baked  or 
not  but  it  looks  better  browned  over  and 
can  be  served  hottest  that  way.  Leave 
out  the  butter  when  there  is  plenty  of  fat 
to  the  meat.  Those  who  study  to  make 
this  almost  forgotten  dish  good  take  care 
to  com  fat  pieces  of  brisket  and  calves 
udder  for  the  purpose. 


36 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


Cost  of  material — J  pound  selected 
cooked  meat  equal  to  IJ  pound  raw9  , 
potatoes  1,  butter  2;  12c  a  quart  or 
8  family  or  hotel  orders. 

101— Pork  Brown  Stew. 

1  pound  coarse  cut  of  fresh  pork. 
•4  medium  potatoes. 

1  tablespoonful  minced  onion. 

2  or  three  leaves  green  sage  or  a  pinch 
of  ground  herbs. 

1  level  teaspoon  minced  red  pepper. 

2  of  salt. 

1   cup  fresh  roast  meat  fat  for  frying. 

3  tablespoons  flour. 

The  fat  to  fry  in  is  only  used  tempo- 
rarily and  does  not  lose  anything.  Let 
it  be  especially  saved  from  the  roast  meat 
pan  for  the  brown  breakfast  stews,  and 
have  no  unpleasant  taste  about  it.  Put 
it  on  in  a  small  deep  pauce  pan  to  get 
hot.  Cut  the  meat  in  pieces,  throw  two 
or  three  at  a  time  into  the  fat  when  it  is 
hot  enough  to  hiss,  let  them  get  the 
sama  sort  of  brown  outside  that  roast 
meat  has,  but  quickly;  take  out  with  a 
skimmer.  When  all  the  pieces  are 
browned  in  that  way,  pour  the  fat  back 
in  your  jar,  put  the  pieces  of  meat  back 
in  the  same  saucepan,  add  3  cups  of  wa- 
ter, the  potatoes  pared  and  cut  in  halves, 
and  the  seasoning,  and  stew  until  the  po- 
tatoes are  done.  Mix  the  flour  in  a  cup 
with  water  and  thicken  the  stew  with  it. 


Cost  of  material — Pork  10,  potatoes 
1,  flour  and  seasonings  1;  12e  for  8  fam- 
ily portions . 

102— Wheat  Muffins— Best. 


2  rounded-up  cups  light  b»-ead  dough — 
little  over  a  pound. 

4  tablespoons  meltei  butter — 2 ounces. 
Same  of  milk  or  cream. 
1  teaspoon  sugar. 

3  yolks  of  eggs — or  1  yolk  and  1  egg. 
Pinch  of  salt. 

■J  cup  of  flour. 

Take  the    piece  of    dough   from  your 
light  bread  or  rolls  that   was  set  to  rise 


over  night.  Two  hours  before  breakfast 
work  the  butter,  sugar  and  milk  in  and 
set  in  a  warm  place  a  few  minutes.  Then 
beat  in  eggs  and  flo'ir  and  keep  beating 
against  the  side  of  the  pan  until  the  bat- 
ter is  very  elastic  and  smooth.  Let  rise 
in  a  warm  place  about  an  hour. 

The  muffin  rings  should  be  two  inches 
across  and  one  inch  deep.  Grease  them, 
set  in  a  greased  pan,  half  fill  with  the 
batter,  which  should  be  thin  enough  to 
settle  down  smooth,  but  thick  enough 
not  to  run  under  the  rings;  let  rise  half 
an  hour,  bake  ten  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 

103— Muffins  from  the  Beginning. 

When  there  is  no  dough  set  for  other 
purposes  the  muffins  can  be  made  from 
the  beginning  with: 

3  level  cups  flour. 

1   cup  warm  water  and  yeast  mixed. 

5  tablespoons  m«ilted  butter. 

I  teaspoon  sugar. 

Same  of  salt.   * 

3  yolks  or  1  yolk  and  1  egg. 

Mix  up  too  soft  to  handle  yet  not  thin 
enough  to  run;  beat  well  and  set  in  a 
warm  corner  to  rise.  Beat  extremely 
well  in  the  morning,  use  in  muffin  rings 
and  bake. 


Cost  of  material — Flour  and  yeast  3, 
eggs,  sugar  and  salt  4;  7  cents  for  12 
muffins. 


104 — Buckwheat  Cakes. 


2  cups  buckwheat  flour. 

2  cups  water  and  yeast  mixed. 

1  level  teaspoon  salt. 

1  tablespoon  golden  syrup. 

2  tablespoons  melted  lard. 

Make  a  sponge  or  batter  over  night  of 
the  warm  water, yeast  and  flour.  In  the 
morning  add  the  enriching  ingredients; 
beat  up  well,and  bake  thin  cakes  on  a 
griddle. 

Most  people  like  buckwheat  cakes 
with  a  little  cornmeal  mixed  in  the  bat- 
ter. Eggs  are  not  needed  except  when 
accidentally  the  batter  ferments  too  much, 
when   an   egg  will  bind    and    make    the 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


37 


cakes  easier  to  bake.     Serve   with  but- 
ter and  syrup. 

After  the  first  mixing  with  yeast  some 
of  the  batter  may  be  saved  and  used  in- 
stead of  yeast  for  several  succeeding 
days.  A  pinch  of  carbonate  of  soda 
may  then  be  needed  to  be  mixed  in  the 
batter  in  the  morning,  but  cakes  made 
that  way,  for  some  reason,  are  more  pal- 
atable than  with  sweet  yeast— care  being 
taken  to  proportion  the  soda  to  the  de- 
gree of  slight  sourness. 


Cost  of  material — Buckwheat  2,  yeast 
1,  syrup  1,  lard  1;  5  cents  for  1  quart 
batter  or  24  cakes  or  8  plates.  To  eat 
with  thera,  8  ownces  butter  20,  J  pint 
syrup  6;  28  cents  total  33  cents  8  plates. 

Note. — As  it  is  seen  the  cost  of  the 
buckwheat  is  next  to  nothing,  but  as  the 
butter  and  syrap  is  nearly  all,  it  is  ob- 
vious that  to  whatever  extent  the  lavish 


use  0^  butter  can  be  checked,  a  saving 
will  be  effected.  The  alleged  indigesti- 
bility  of  buckwheat  should  be  laid  to  tlie 
common  extravagance  in  butter  and 
syrup.  To  such  as  are  proof  against 
dyspepsia,  the  poeple  who  lead  active 
out-door  lives,the  fat  from  fried  sausages 
is  more  relishing  than  butter  with  buck- 
wheat cakes. 

These  and  all  other  batter  cakes  are 
made  more  costly  than  they  ought  to  be, 
as  well  as  unhealthy  in  many  places,  by 
the  wasteful  way  of  ladling  great  spoon- 
fuls of  melted  lard  on  to  the  griddle  to 
bake,  or  rather  fry,  the  cakes  in.  A 
pound  of  lar  J  does  not  last  long  that  way 
and  it  is  unnecessary.  Cakes  can  be 
baked  on  any  sort  of  a  griddle  if  it  is  on- 
ly rubbed  md  polished  with  a  cloth  every 
baking,  but  if  greased  at  all  a  piece  of 
bacon  or  ham  rind  or  of  suet  answers 
every  purpose  and  the  cost  is  scarcely 
appreciable. 


Sweet  Tomato  Pickle. 

Seven  pounds  ripe  tomatoes,  peeled 
and  sliced ;  three  and  one  half  pounds 
sugar ;  one  ounce  cinnamon  and  mace 
mixed ;  one  ounce  cloves  ;  one  quart 
of  vinegar.  Mix  all  together  and 
Btew  one  hour. 


PIcklette.    . 

•  Four  large  crisp  cabbages,  cut  fine ; 
one  quart  onions,  chopped  fine;  two 
of  vinegar,  or  enough  to  cover  the 
cabbage;  two  pounds  brown  sugar, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  ground  mustard, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  black  pepper, 
two  tablespoonfuls  turmeric,  two 
tablespoonsfuls  celery  seed,  one  table- 
Spoonful  allspice,  one  tablespoonful  of 


mace,  one  of  alum,  pulverized.  Pack 
the  cabbage  and  onions  in  alternate 
layers,  with  a  little  salt  between  them. 
Let  them  stand  until  next  day.  Then 
scald  the  vinegar,  sugar,  and  spice 
together,  and  pour  over  the  cabbage 
and  onions.  Do  this  three  mornings 
in  succession.  On  the  fourth  put  all 
together  over  the  fire  and  heat  to  a 
boil.  Let  them  boil  five  minutes. 
When  cold  pack  them  in  small  jars. 
It  is  fit  for  use  as  soon  as  cool  and 
keeps  well. 

Turnovers. 

Roll  out  some  puff-paste  and  cut  in 

oblongshaped  pieces.  Put  some  finely 

cut  cheese  on  the  paste,   turn   over, 

and  pinch  down  the  edges  and  bake. 


88 


SAN  FRANGISGO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


HOTEL  DINNER. 


105— Ox  Tail  Soup. 

2 J  quarts  of  soup  stock. 

1  ox  tail. 

1  small  carrot. 

1  turnip. 

1  onion  ^ 

Celery,  bay  leaf,  cloves,  salt  and  pep- 
per. 

Make  the  stock  by  boiling  a  beef  shank 
in  6  quarts  of  water  several  hours,  until 
it  is  reduced  one-hal£L 

While  the  stock  is  boiling  take  a  car- 
rot, turnip,  onion  and  staUr  of  celery, 
and,  with  any  kind  of  a  round  cutter  or 
an  apple-corer  and  knife,  cut  enough  loz- 
enge shapes  to  fill  a  cup  with  the  mixed 
sorts.  Throw  a  few  of  the  remaining 
scraps  into  the  boiling  stock  for  season- 
ing, and  ^  a  bay  leaf  and  8  cloves. 

Saw  or  chop  the  ox  tail  into  thin  round 
slices  and  steep  them  an  hour  in  cold 
water.  The  ox  tail  must  stew  at  least 
2  or  3  hours  to  be  eatable  and  so  far 
dissolved  as  to  enrich  the  soup,  and  it 
may  be  done  either  in  the  stock  boiler, 
and  the  pieces  picked  out  afterward  to 
go  in  the  soup  plates,  or  may  be  stewed 
in  some  of  the  stock  in  a  separate  sauce- 
pan, whichever  way  may  be  most  con- 
venient. 

At  last  strain  the  specified  amount  of 
stock  clear  into  the  soup  pot.  Boil  the 
shapes  of  vegetables  in  water  by  them- 
selves J  hour,  then  drain  off  and  put 
them  into  the  soup,  also  the  ox  tail  sli- 
ces. Add  brown  butter  and  flour  thick- 
ening in  small  quantity,  let  the  poup  sim- 
mer slowly  until  it  becomes  smooth  and 
clear  again,  and  skim  until  all  the  fat  is 
removed.  Season  with  salt  and  cayenne. 

Serve  a  slice  or  two  of  the  ox  tail  and 
some  of  the  vegetables  in  each  plate. 

When  a  soup  like  the  foregoing  has 
not  a  clear  symp-like  sort  of  thickness  or 
body,  but  is  dull,  like  flour  gravy,  it 
may  be  cleared  by  longer  simmering  and 
adding  more  stock  with  Pome  cold  tomato 
juice,  or  lemon  juice  or  even  cold  water, 


and  skimming  from  the   side 

If  not  already  light  brown  add  a 
spoonful  of  burnt  sugar  caramel. 

Cost  of  material — Beef  shank  for  stock 
10,  oxtail  8,  vegetables,  seasonings, 
thickening  4;  22  cents  for  10  half  pint 
plates,  or  say,  2c  plate  or  4c  pint 
bowl. 


106— Fried  Bass   With  Bacon. 


Scale  and  clean  the  fish,  chop  off  the 
fins,  and  if  small  cook  them  with- 
out cutting;  if  large,  split  them  length- 
wise and  cut  across  making  four. 

Pepper  and  salt'the  pieces,  roll  them 
in  flour  and  let  lie  in  it  until  the  last; 
drop  them  into  a  pan  of  hot  lard  and  let 
fry  from  five  minutes  upwards  according 
to  size. 

Fry  a  slice  of  breakfast  bacon  for  each 
piece  of  fish  in  another  pan  and  send  in 
the  bacon  on  the  fish  and  a  garnish  of 
parsley  and  plain  boiled  potatoes. 

NoTB — There  are  several  varieties  of 
bass  and  for  some  reason  hardly  to  be 
explained  hotel  stewards  seem  to  be 
proudest  of  displaying  striped  bass  in 
their  best  menus.  The  black  bass  is, 
however,  the  favorite  with  restaurant 
customers  and  it  seems  fair  to  infer  that 
it  has  some  good  qualities  which  make  it 
so.  It  is  certainly  the  favorite  with  an- 
glers. In  weight  it  ranges  from  one 
pound  to  five.  Only  from  2  to  4  ounces 
need  to  be  served  as  a  dinner  order  of 
the  cooked  fish,  and  a  spoonful  of  potat 
toes  in  some  form  should  go  in  on  the 
same  plate.  For  a  restaurant  rirder  a 
fish  weighing  just  one  pound  is  the  most 
satisfactory  all  around . 

Cost— ^bass  24c  for  2  pounds,  8  oun- 
ces bacon  8,  potatoes  8  orders  2,  lard  to 
fry  2;  36c  for  8  dishes  or  4J  cents  eachj 
hotel  size. 

107— Boiled  Beef  with   Horseradish. 

A  fat,  unctuous,  gristly  piece  of  the 
brisket  or  "plate"  is  the  best  for  this,  oi 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


39 


the  rib  ends  that  are  sawed  off  a  rib  roast. 
Boil  it  slowly  for  at  least  three  hours; 
have  a  little  salt  in  the  water  (which  is 
afterwards  to  be  used  to  make  soup.) 
Grate  or  finely  scrape  down  a  stick  of 
horseradish,  put  it  in  a  bowl  with  vine- 
gar and  water  enough  to  cover,  and  use 
it  for  sauce. 


Cost  of  material — vBeef  2  pounds  12, 
one-third — .horseradish   2,  mashed 
potatoes  2;  16c  for  8  dishes,  2c  per  dish. 

108— Roast  Sucking  Pig. 


The  pig  will  be  ready  trussed  when  it 
comes  from  the  butcher's,  with  the  toes 
inserted  in  slits  cut  in  the  skin.  Lay  it 
on  its  back  and  drive  the  point  of  a  sharp 
knife  down  through  the  bone  of  the  back, 
dividing  it  convenient  for  carving,  and 
also  detach  the  ribs  along  one  side,  and 
loosen  the  inner  joints  of  the  hijw  and 
legs,  which  can  be  done  without  spoiling 
the  outside  appearance  of  the  pig.  Wash 
and  wipe  it  dry,  stuff  with  bread  dressing 
containing  sage  and  onions,  and  sew  up 
with  twine.  Roast  about  two  hour8,cov- 
ered  with  a  sheet  of  greased  paper  for  part 
of  the  time, and  baste  with  butter  to  get  a 
fine  transparent  brown  color  on  the  skin 
at  last.  l^Iake  gravy  in  the  pan  to  pour 
around  the  pig  in  the  dish.  Serve  ap- 
ple sauce  separately  in  a  sauce  dish.  It 
is  a  time  honored  cuntom  to  insert  a 
small  apple  in  the  mouth  of  the  pig  be- 
fore sending  it  to  table. 

Note — Pigs  weighing  from  30  to  40 
pounds  are  more  frequently  furnished  to 
hotels  than  the  very  small  ones,  and,  as 
they  are  not  sent  to  table  whole  are  con- 
sidered more  satisfactory.  They  are  too 
large  to  be  cooked  whole  but  are  split  in 
halves,  carefully  hacked  through  the 
bones  inside  according  to  the  directions 
for  sucking  pig,  and  basted  arid  crisped 
light  brown  in  the  same  manner.  Serve 
with  apple  sauce. 


109— Apple  Sauce  for  Meats. 

Pare  good  ripe  apples  and  slice  them 
into  a  bright  saucepan.  Add  water 
enough  to  come  up  level  with  the  apples 
and  stew  with  a  lid  on  till  done — about 
thirty  minutes.  While  they  are  stewing 
throw  in  a  littlte  butter.  Mash  at  last 
with  the  back  of  a  spoon.     No  sugar. 

Cost  of  material — 10  pound  pig  $2,00, 
stuffing  10,  apple  sauce  7;  $2,17 — say 
for  20  to  25  orders  not  less  than  lOciper 
dish. 

Note — Pigs  often  cost  a  much  larger 
amount  than  their  weight  at  20c  per 
pound  would  be,  five  dollars  being  often 
obtained  at  Christmas  and  other  holiday 
seasons.  The  number  of  dishes  is  some- 
what dependent  upon  skill  in  carving. 
In  any  case,  however,  this  is  an  expen- 
sive dish.  

110— Chicken  Pie,  Plain. 

When  chicken  pie  or  any  similar  dish 
is  written  in  a  menu  as  of  some  partic- 
ular style,  it,  of  course,  carries  the  im- 
plication that  there  are  more  ways  than 
one.  A  very  small  variation  or  addi- 
tion of  vegetables,  mushrooms  or  eggs 
and  wine  may  suffice  to  change  the 
name.  It  is  only  necessary  to  say  here 
that  one  way  by  which  young  chickens, 
squirrels,  rabbits  etc.,  are  partly  fried  in 
butter  before  being  covered  with  a  crust, 
and  the  gravy  in  the  pan  is  made  rich 
and  light  brown,  may  be  found  detailed 
elsewhere  for  pigeon  pie,  and  the  follow- 
ing is  the  other  principal  method,  or 
country  style. 

1  large  fowl  or  2  chickens. 

1  slice  of  fat  salt  pork — 2  ounces. 

1  large  potato. 

1  teaspoonful  of  minced  onion* 

1  of  black  pepper. 

1  of  salt. 

1  pound  of  pie  crust. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  fiour. 
A  little  parsely. 

The  salt  pork  is  only  a  seasoning,  and 
mav  be  dispensed  with  or  substituted 
with  butter  or  the  fat  of  the  fowls. 


40 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


Cut  the  fowl  in  8  pieces  if  large,  first 
dividing  it  in  half  through  the  back  and 
breast,  chop  each  side  in  4,  taking  a 
piece  out  between  the  leg  and  the  wing. 
Cook  the  gizzard  and  heart  with  the  fowl, 
but  leave  out  the  liver,  which  is  apt  to 
impart  its  flavor  to  the  whole  dish.  Boil 
the  meat  till  tender,  which  may  take 
anywhere  from  1  hour  to  4,  according  to 
the  kind  of  fowl.  It  does  not  make  much 
difference  how  old  the  fowl  is  if  it  be  boil- 
ed accordingly  with  seasonings  added. 
It  will  make  the  liquoi  rich  as  jelly  after 
a  while. 

Half  an  hour  before  taking  the  fowl 
from  the  fire  put  in  the  potato,  cut  in 
pieces,  and  afterward  thicken  the  liquor 
with  flour  and  water  and  mix  in  some 
chopped  parsley. 

Turn  it  into  a  baking  pan, dredge  a  little 
more  ulack  pepper  over  the  top  and  a  lit- 
tle flour  over  that,  aud  then  cover  with 
plain  pie  paste  and  bake  it  ^  hour. 


Cost  of  material — Fowl  40, 
vegetables  and    seasonin^js   1, 
49   cents  for  8  dishes,  or  6  or 
dish. 


pork  3, 
5, 
7c   per 


111— Boiled  Kale  or  Seakale. 


Wash  free  from  grit,  tie  it  in  bunches, 
taim  off  the  root  end  and  boil  it  in  salted, 
water,  like  winter  spinach,  about 
twenty  minutes.  Drain  in  a  colander. 
Pour  a  spoonful  of  butter  sauce  over 
each  bunch  in  the  dish. 


112— Mashed  Potatoes. 


Being  such  a  common  and  easy  article 
It  is  often  the  most  neglected  and  goes 
to  the  table  dark  and  full  of  lumps, 
when  it  ought  to  be  as  smooth  as  if 
pressed  through  a  sieve.  Butter  and 
milk  to  mash  with  are  good  additions  in 
their  way,  but  vigorous  pounding  of  the 
potatoes  with  a  little  salt  and  hot  water 
or  perhaps  the  clear  fat  from  the  top  of 
the  soup  will  nake  very  fine  mashed  po- 
tatoes when  neither  of  those  luxuries  can 
be  afforded.  The  longer  the  mashing 
is  continued  provided  the  potato   is  kept 


hot  at  the  same  time,  the  whiter  it  be- 
comes. It  is  an  improvement,  to  bake 
the  mashed  potato  in  a  pie  pan,  brushing 
the  top  over  with  milk  to  cause  it  to 
brown  easily. 

113— Bread  Custard  Pudding. 

2  cups-pressed  in-fine  bread  crumbs. 
2  cups  milk. 

1  ounce  butter — small  egg  size. 
1  tablespoon  sugar. 

Nutmeg  or  grated  or  minced  lemon 
peel. 

Crumble  the  bread  fine  either  by 
chopping  or  grating;  grate  half  of  the 
rind  of  a  lemon  into  it  or  a  little  nutmeg. 
Mix  the  milk  with  the  egg  and  sugar; 
melt  the  butter  and  mix  in  and  pour  the 
mixture  over  the  bread  crumbs  in  a  but- 
tered pudding-pan  or  bowl  and  bake 
about  twenty-five  minutes.  Various 
changes  can  be  made  by  adding  raisins, 
currants  or  citron  to  this  pudding.  The 
fruit  must  be  sprinkled  in  after  the  pud- 
ding is  in  the  baking  pan.  It  will  sink 
if  stirred.  Serve  a  sauce  with  the  pud- 
ding. 

Cost  of  material — 11  cents  for  one 
quart  or  8  portions.  With  sauce  2c 
each  order. 


114— Rhubarb  Pie. 


Rhubarb  should  be  peeled  and  cut  in 
two-inch  lengths,  and  cooked  with  only 
w^ter  enough  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the 
kettle,  with  half  a  pound  of  brown  su- 
gar to  each  pound  spread  over  the  top 
and  the  steam  shut  in.  It  burns  easily, 
and  should  be  cooked  at  the  side  of  the 
range  or  set  upon  a  brick,  till  the  sugar 
dissolves  with  the  juice  to  form  a  syrup. 

Line  the  pie  pans  with  puff  paste,  made 
not  very  rich,  fill  with  the  stewed  rhu- 
barb and  place  broad  strips  of  paste,  cut 
with  a  paste  jagger  across  and  bake;  or 
use  tbe  plain  pie  paste  and  bake  with  a 
top  crust. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


41 


Cost  of  material — Rhubarb  5,  sugar 
5,  crust  5;  15c.  for  2  pies,  cut  in  8  or 
10. 


115— The  Stock  Boiler. 


Where  the  best  management  prevails 
and  the  work  goes  on  like  machinery, 
one  wheel  within  another,  there  is  a  reg- 
ular time  of  day  to  set  the  stock  boiler 
on,  it  may  be  in  the  evening  to  simmer 
till  the  last,  and  then  the  liquor  strained 
off  is  set  away  till  the  next  day,  or  it 
may  be  early  in  the  morning.  The  boil- 
er should  be  larger  than  the  ordinary 
stove  pots.  Put  into  it  a  gallon  of  clear 
cold  water. 

The  meats  to  be  cooked  during  the 
day  are  trimmed  of  all  the  tough  and 
gristley  ends,  such  as  are  sure  to  be 
thrown  away  if  fried,  broiled  or  roasted, 
and  all  the  bones  are  taken  from  the 
meat  that  can  be  without  detriment  to 
the  joint,  and  these  scraps,  after  washing 
in  clear  water,  are  put  into  the  boiler. 
Then,  if  there  is  a  soup  bonft  beside,  or 
a  chicken  to  be  boiled,  or  a  leg  of  mut- 
ton it  will  be  80  much  the  richer  stock. 
Some  days  there  will  be  reason  to  choose 
which  kind  of  soup  to  make,  according 
to  the  contents  of  the  stock  boiler,  which 
is  a  more  economical  way  to  look  at  it 
than  if  the  boiler  was  to  be  furnished  to 
suit  the  soup.  A  cream  soup,  for  ex- 
ample, may  be  made  when  the  stock  is 
thin,  and  when  it  is  rich  as  jelly  make 
beef  gravy  soup  or  mock  turtle. 

The  available  meat  being  in  next, 
throw  in  a  little  vegetable  seasoning, 
such  as  a  small  onion  and  piece  of  tur- 
nip and  carrot.  But  these  are  not  indis- 
pensible,  for  the  soup  will  be  seasoned  af- 
terwards. 

Let  the  boiler  heat  slowly  and  when 
at  last  it  boils,  skim  carefully  two  or 
three  times,  put  the  lid  on  and  let  sim- 
mer 4  or  5  hours,  when  there  will  prob- 
ably be  2  quarts  of  rich  stock  ready 
when  strained,  to  be  used  in  soup  or  to 
make  gravies  and  sauces. 

The  strainer  fine  enough   for  ordinary 


use  is  made  of  perforated  tin,  or  a  pan 
with  a  perforated  t'u  bottom.  Strike 
the  edge  of  the  pan  rapidly  to  make  the 
soup  go  through. 

11&—  Celery  Cream  Soup. 

3  pints  soup  stock. 

1  pint  rich  milk. 

Outside  stalks  of  celery,  about  4. 

1  small  onion,  minced. 

Small  piece  of  lean  cooked  bam. 

1  tablespoon  flour. 

Butter  size  of  an  egg. 

Salt  and  white  pepper. 

Boil  the  soup  stock  with  the  onion  and 
scrap  of  ham  in  it  for  flavor.  Cut  up  the 
celery — about  enough  to  fill  a  large  cup — 
in  dice  shapes,  and  boil  it  ten  minutes  in 
water;  then  strain  the  water  away.  Mix 
the  butter  and  flour  together,  and  stir 
them  into  the  boiling  stock  to  thicken  it 
slighty,  then  strain  it  into  another  sauce- 
pan and  put  in  the  parboiled  celeiy  and 
the  pint  of  milk.  Season  with  pepper 
and  salt  to  taste.  Let  it  simmer  ten  min- 
utes or  more  after  the  celery  is  in. 

Mince  a  piece  of  green  leaf  of  celery 
very  fine,  and  sprinkle  it  from  a  knife 
point  into  the  soup.  This  makes  six  or 
seven  plates. 

Butter  and  flour  for  thickening  ij  the 
orthodox  article  (roux),  but  should  the 
butter  fail  to  arrive  punctually  at  the 
time  the  flour  can  be  mixed  with  a  little 
water  instead.  The  stock  used  should 
have  been  skimmed  free  from  fat,  if  not 
the  soup  must  be. 

Cost — 21c  for  2  quarts,  or  3c  per 
plate. 

117— Boiled   Red   Snapper— Shrimp 
Sauce. 


There  should  be  a  proper  fish  kettle 
for  boiling  a  fish  whole,  having  a  p  rfor- 
ated  false  bottom  or  drainer,  that  can  be 
lifted  out  with  the  fish  upon  it  when 
done.  Where  there  is  no  such  article 
the  best  substitute  is  a  common  milk  pan 


42 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


of  large  size.  Cover  it  with  auother  pan 
that  the  fish  may  get  steamed  if  not 
quite  covered. 

Choose  a  small  fish,  scale  it,  draw, 
chop  ofl^"  the  fins, wash  and  wipe  it  dry  on 
a  cloth. 

Half  fill  the  pan  with  water  and  put 
in  a  little  salt,  vinegar,  a  small  onion 
and  four  cloves  stuck  in  it  and  half  a  bay 
leaf.  When  it  boils  put  in  the  fish  and 
simmer  it  at  the  side  of  the  range  about 
halt  an  hour.  Then  pour  off  the  water, 
take  the  skin  off  the  upper  side,  slide  ihe 
fish  ou  to  its  dish,  if  to  be  served  whole, 
and  pour  over  it  some  shrimp  sauce.  But 
if  served  individually  it  may  be  di- 
vided with  a  fish  slice  in  the  pan  and 
sauce  poured  over  in  the  plates.  Small 
and  tend  r  fish,  like  fresh  mackerel,  are 
best  rolled  up  in  a  pudding  cloth  and 
boiled  in  pliin  salted  water,  then  care- 
fully unrolled  onto  the  dish. 

118— Shrimp  Sauce. 


point,  place  them  on  a   greased   baking 
pan  and  bake  a  nice  color  on  top. 

Cost  of  fish  with  sauce  etc. — 2  pounds 
fish  40,  seasoning  1,  shrimps  15,  butter 
eggs  and  seasonings  3,  potatoes  8  por- 
tions 2 — 61  cents  for  8  to  12  portions, 
or  about  7c  an  order. 


1  pint  of  clear  broth  or  water. 

Butter  size  of  an  egg. 

1  tablespoonful  of  flour — rather  large. 

Yolk  of  1  egg. 

bait  and  pepper. 

\  can  Barataria  shrimps. 

Stir  the  flour  and  most  of  the  butter 
to&ether  over  the  fire.  When  they  bub- 
ble begin  adding  the  hot  broih  or  water, 
and  stir  it  till  cooked  and  thick — about 
two  minutes  longer.  Then  drop  in  the 
egg  yolk  and  beat,  and  next  the  remain- 
ing small  piece  of  butter  and  beat  till  it  is 
melted.  Season  slightly  and  put  in  the 
shnmps.   They  are  already  cooked, 

119— Duchesse  Potatoes. 


Usually  served  with  fish,  on  the  same 
plate.  They  are  little  cakes  of  mashed 
potatoes,  in  fancy  ehapes  or  plain.  Take 
four  steamed  potatoes  and  mash  them 
with  an  ounce  of  butter,  the  yolk  of  an 
egg  and  salt.  Spread  oua  pie  plate,  brush 
over  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg  mixed  with 
a  spoonful  of  milk,  cut  in  pieces  of  any 
ehapo,  take  up  the  pieces   with   a    knife 


120— Larded    Filet  of   Beef. 

This  is  nothing  if  not  neat,  uniform, 
precise  and  workmanlike  in  appearance. 
There  must  be  a  pound  of  fat  bacon  for 
larding,  cold  and  firm,  so  that  it  can  be 
cut  aright.  Cut  the  slices  a  quarter 
inch  thick,  cut  these  in  lengths  of  IJ 
inches  and  then  into  strips  all  precisely 
alike   and  as  thick  as  a  common  pencil. 

Procure  the  filet  or  tenderloin  of  beef 
with  the  fat  on  it,  that  is  with  the  coat- 
ing of  suet  that  covers  the  upper  side  of 
it,  and  shave  that  down  until  the  cover- 
ing of  fat  is  about  as  thick  as  a  beefsteak 
all  over  it.  Then  raise  the  edge  of  the 
fat  at  one  side,  skinning  the  filet,  so 
to  speak,  and  lay  the  sheet  of  fat  over 
on  the  other  side  without  cutting  it  off. 
This  is  to  have  the  sheet  of  fat  attached 
ready  to  cover  over  the  filet  again  after 
it  is  larded  with  strips  of  bacon.  Draw 
the  point  of  a  sharp  knife  across  and 
across  the  skin  inside  the  fat,  to  score  it 
so  that  it  will  not  draw  up  in  cooking. 
Trim  off  the  thin  end  of  the*  filet  and 
round  off  the  thick  end.  C  )mmence  at 
the  thick  end  with  the  larding.  Insert 
a  piece  of  bacon  in  the  end  of  the  larding 
needle  and  draw  it  through  the 
top  parts  of  the  meat  pinched  up 
with  the  left  thumb  and  finger  for  the 
purpose,  one  end  of  the  strip  of  bacon  bo 
inserted  will  be  left  leaning  backward, 
the.ot her  forward,  on  the  surface.  In- 
sert 6  or  more  of  these  strips  in  a  row 
across.  Begin  the  next  row  so  that  the 
strips  will  come  alternately  between 
those  of  the  first,  and  the  exposed  ends 
will  cross  the  others,  and  so  continue, 
with  the  regularity  of  stitching  cloth,  to 
the  other  end.  Cover  the  larded  filet 
with  the  sheet  of  fat.     Make  a  long  and 


COOKING  FOB  PROFIT, 


43 


narrow  baking  pan  hot  in  the  oven,  with  a 
tablespoonfal  of  salt  and  a  cap  of  drip- 
pings in  it,  and  enough  water  to  keep  the 
bottom  from  burning.  Put  in  also  a 
slice  of  turnip,  carrot  and  onion,  and  a 
piece  of  celery.  Have  the  oven  hot, 
put  in  the  filet,  and  roast  it  with  the 
tat,  covering  it  half  an  hour;  then  take 
off  the  fat,  baste  the  filet  with  the  con- 
tents of  the  pan,  and  let  cook  fifteen 
minutes  longer,  by  which  time  the  sur- 
face of  the  meat  should  be  brown,  and 
bacon  strips  brown  too,  without  being 
burnt  at  the  ends. 

Filets  of  beef  vary  in  weight  and 
thickness,  and  the  time  above  given  is 
only  a  guide  to  the  average.  Unless 
specially  ordered  otherwise,  the  thick 
part  of  the  filet  should  cut  slightly  rare 
in  the  middle,  while  the  thinner  portion 
is  well  done. 

In  carving,  the  filet  should  be  sliced 
across  vertically  because  it  is  a  mass  of 
strings  ot  meat  lying  side  by  side,  and 
if  cut  slantingly  the  slices  begin  to  be 
stringy  and  coarse.  A  filet  that  is  to 
be  braised  along  with  herbs,  spices,  veg- 
etables, wine,  etc.,  is  larded  with  strips 
of  bacon  or  fat  pork  that  pass  clear 
through  from  one  side  to  the  other  diag- 
onally, so  that  the  slices  cut  across  when 
done,  show  the  larding  all  through  the 
meat. 


Cost  of  filet — 4  pounds  $1,20,  pork 
15  (not  all  used  but  culled  and  spoiled), 
seasonings  paid  for  with  drippings;  $1.35 
for  3  pounds  net,  or  15  to  20  slices  or  7c 
an  order 


121— Mushrooms  Stewed  in  Wine. 


Larded  filet  of  beef  with  mushrooms 
or,  aux  champignons,  is  the  almost  uni- 
versal dish  at  small  party  dinners.  The 
common  method  of  preparing  the  mush- 
rooms has  been  described  at  No.  48,  but 
if  a  finished  sauce  is  required  use  half 
brown  beef  gravy  and  half  mushroom 
sauce,  add  a  bastingspoon  of  wine  and 
simmer  at  the  side  of  the  range  and  skim 
until  clear,  then  if  not  thick  enough  boil 


it  down  rapidly,  and  after  that  add  the 
mushrooms,  cayenne,  and  a  spoonful  of 
sherry. 

122'-Brown  Gravy. 


Before  serving  the  filet,  or  any  roast 
meat  let  the  gravy  in  the  pan  dry  down 
until  the  grease  can  be  poured  off  clear, 
while  the  glaze  remains  adhering  to  the 
pan;  pour  in  water  to  dissolve  it,  aod 
when  it  has  boiled  add  a  trifle  of  brown 
flour  thickening  if  it  seems  to  need 
it;  strain  through  a  fine  strainer;  serve 
some  in  the  dish  with  the  filet,  the  rest 
in  a  sauceboat. 


123— Brown   Flour  for  Thicl(ening. 

While  butter  and  flour  mixed  in  equal 
parts  and  baked  brown  makes  the  best 
thickening  for  gravies,  plain  browned 
flour  does  nearly  as  well  and  is  more  de- 
sirable when  the  butter  is  not  very  good. 
Put  some  sifted  flour  dry  into  a  frying 
pan  and  bake  deep  brown  in  the  oven. 
Use  it  at  the  rate  of  a  tablespoonful  to 
a  cupful  of  liquid.  Wet  with  water  the 
same  as  raw  flour,  before  stirring  it  in. 
It  may  be  kept  in  a  can  always  ready. 

124— Stuffed  Tomatoes. 


6  or  8  lai^e  tomatoes. 

X  cupfol  fine  bread  crumbs. 

1  rounded  tablespoonful  of  minced 
onion. 

1  heaping  tablespoonful  minced  fat 
bacon,  or  butter  in  equal  amount. 

Slight  grating  of  nutmeg. 

Cayenne  and  salt. 

Do  not  peel  the  tomatoes,  but  take  a 
slice  off  the  rough  stem  side  and  scoop 
out  the  inside  with  a  tablespoon  into  a 
colander,  so  that  the  juice  may  partly 
drain  away.  Cut  a  thin  slice  or  two  of 
bread  and  mince  across  to  make  a  cup- 
ful. Mix  tiie  crumbs  and  tomato  pulp 
together,  bacon,  onion,  very  little  salt, 
if  any,  pepper,  and  touch  of  nutmeg  or 
mace. 

Fill  the  tomatoes  with  the  mixture 
rounded  up  on  top,  bake  in  a  small  pan 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


4A, 


well  buttered,  with  a  greased  sheet  of 
paper  over,  one-half  hour.  Then  mois- 
ten over  the  tops  with  the  back  of  a 
epoon  dipped  in  butter,  dredge  fine 
crumbs  on  top  and  bake  again  without 
cover  until  they  are  well  browned. 

Cost — 1  to  2  cents  each  according  to 
season.  One  of  the  best  substitutes  for 
mushrooms  with  filet  of  beef. 


125— Egg  Plant  Plain  Fried-(Sauteed.) 

Slice  the  egg  plant,  without  paring, 
into  five  or  six,  throwing  away  only  the 
end  parings.  Boil  the  slices  in  salted 
water  a  few  minutes  to  extract  the  strong 
taste,  drain  them,  and  while  still  moist 
dip  both  sides  in  flour,  then  fry  brown 
in  a  flying  pan  with  a  little  drippings 
They  are  served  as  a  vegetable,  like 
fried  parsnips,  etc. 

Cost — Ic  each  person. 

126— Chicken  Croquettes. 

1  young  hen  lightly  roasted. 

J  cup  mushrooms. 

1  small  cup  butter. 

Same  of  flour. 

1  cup   cream. 

Same  of  broth  or  water. 

A  slight  grating  of  nutmeg. 

A  little  lemon  juice. 

Pepper  and  salt. 

Cut  the  meat  of  the  roast  fowl  mto  the 
■smallest  possible  dice,  mince  the  mush- 
rooms and  add,  sprinkle  with  a  teas- 
poonful  of  mixed  pepper  and  salt,  grate 
a  little  nutmeg  and  squeeze  a  lemon 
over  it. 

Make  cream  sauce  by  stirring  the  but- 
ter and  flour  together  in  a  sauce  pan  and 
adding  the  broth  and  cream  when  it  be- 
gins to  bubble,  and  when  the  sauce  is 
ready  moisten  the  meat  with  it,  stir  it  up 
well  and  set  it  away  to  become  cold. 
'  Then  make  out  in  roUs  about  the  size  of 
a  finger,  roll  m  flour,  then  egg,  then 
in  cracker  crumbs  and  fry  m  hot  lard. 
Pile  in  the  dish  and  garnish  with  fried 
jparBley. 


Cost  of  material — fowl  50,  butter  8, 
mushrooms  10,  cream  6,  seasonings  2 
eggs,  breading  and  frying  6,  82;  16  to 
20  croquettes  cost  4:C  to  5c  each. 

>ioTE — The  above  is  the  way  to  make 
croquettes  of  the  best  quality,  but  a 
much  cheaper  will  be  found  elsewhere 
described,  and  half  the  quantity  can  be 
made  with  the  remains  of  fowl  left  over. 


127— Stewed    Cucumbers. 

Pare  three  or  four  young  and  good  cu- 
cumbers, and  cut  them  in  thick  slices, 
boil  these  in  water,  with  a  little  salt  and 
vinegar  in  it — the  same  as  for  egg-plant — 
for  about  fifteen  minutes,  then  pour  away 
the  water.  Make  a  cupful  of  cream 
sauce  in  another  saucepan,  and,  when 
ready,  beat  in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and 
a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar.  Pour  this 
yellow  sauce  over  the  slices  of  cucumber, 
after  they  have  been  placed  neatly  in 
their  dish. 

128— Angelica  Punch. 

2  cups  California  angelica  wine. 

2  cups  hot  water — a  pint. 

1  cup  sugar  J  pound. 

1  cup  stemmed  raisins — J  pound. 

1  lemon. 

2  whites  of  eggs  and  2  tablespoonful 
of  powdered  sugar  to  beat  in. 

Chop  the  raisins,  grate  half  the  rind 
the  lemon,  squeeze  in  all  of  the  juice, 
pour  the  hot  water  to  them,  add  the  su- 
gar, and  stir  until  it  is  all  dissolved. 
Strain  the  flavored  syrup  thus  obtained 
into  a  freezer,  and  rub  the  most  of  the 
raisin  pulp  through  as  well.  Add  the 
wine  and  freeze.  When  nearly  frozen 
whip  the  two  whites  and  the  powdered 
sugar  together  till  thick,  add  them  to 
the  punch  and  finish  freezing.  It  is  like 
cream.     Serve  in  stem  glasses. 

Cost  of  material — wine  25,  sugar  5, 
raisins  10,  lemon  2,  whites  and  su£ar  3, 
ice  and  salt  12;  57  cents  for  2  quarts 
(when  beaten)  of  punch,  or  16  glasses  or 
more — 3  cents  a  glass. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


45. 


129— Boiled  Young  Ducks.  { 

Having  picked  and  singed  them,  split 
them  down  the  back  and  draw  them.  Cut 
oflf  the  neck  and  feet.  Wash  them  quick- 
ly in  cold  water  and  wipe  dry,  and  flat- 
ten them  slightly  to  broiling  shape  with 
a  tap  of  the  cleaver.  Lay  the  duck  on 
a  plate,  dredge  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
brush  over  both  Fides  with  butter.  Broil 
on  the  gridiron  over  clear  coals,  the  in- 
side first,  about  15  minutes.  Serve  on 
a  hot  dish,  with  a  border  of  small  pieces 
of  toast  or  green  peas  with  currant  jelly 
or  a  quartered  lemon,  or  with  the  foUow- 
sauce. 

130  Orange  Sauce   For  Meats. 

1  orange. 

1  cupful  of  brown  sauce. 

^  cupful  of  claret. 

A  little  cayenne. 

Shave  oflF  very  thinly  the  yellow  rind 
of  about  a  quarter  ef  the  orange  and 
boil  it  in  the  brown  sauce  about  10  min- 
utes. Gut  half  the  orange  into  small 
slices  and  remove   the    pith  and  seeds. 

Strain  the  brown  sauce  from  the  peel, 
throw  into  it  the  orange  slices,  squeeze 
in  the  juice  of  the  remaining  half,  add 
the  claret  and  cayenne,  let  it  boil  up  and 
skim  off  the  film  that  will  rise. 

K  there  is  no  brown  sauce  on  hand 
soup  stock  can  be  used  and  thickened 
with  a  ppoonful  oi  flour  worked  in  a 
small  piece  of  soft  butter.  Pour  the 
sauce  under  the  ducks  in  the  dish  and 
dispose  the  pieces  of  orange  around  them. 


Cost. — 4  young  ducks,  $1  ;  1  can 
peas  or  sauce  equivalent,  20 — 8  persons, 
15  cents  each. 


cabbage  and  dressing  thoroughly,  and 
the  crab  meat  mix  in  lightly,  without 
breaking  the  pieces.  FlU  8  crab  shells 
with  the  salad  and  place  them  on  a  disb 
previously  prepared  with  a  bed  of  cress 
or  other  green. 


131— Crab   Salad. 

6  boiled  crabs,  common  size. 

1  cup  finely  minced  white  cabbage. 

■8^  cup  salad  dressing. 

Pick  the  meat  out  of  the  crabs,  cut 
all  that  can  be  cut  into  pieces  of  even 
size  and  rub  the  rest  smootli  in  salad 
dressing,  adding  a  little  mustard .     Mix 


Cost. — 6  crabs,  30;  dressing,  4;  34 
cents  for  8  orders. 


132  Apple  Turnovers. 

Sometimes  served  as  a  **  sweet  en- 
tree; "  more  suitable  to  put  in  place  of 
pie;  best  for  luncheon,  pic-nic  parties, 
and  for  sale;  a  favorite  form  of  pastry 
everywhere. 

Make  the  flaky  pie  paste  with  about 
12  ounces  of  butter  to  a  pound  of  flour, 
roll  it  out  to  a  thin  sheet  and  cut  out 
flats  nearly  as  large  as  saucers,  with  the 
lid  of  a  baking  powder  can  or  similar 
cutter. 

Place  a  good  spoonful  of  dry  stewed 
apple  in  the  middle  of  each  piece  of  paste 
and  double  over  in  half-moon  shape. 
Press  the  two  edges  together  and  crimp 
them  with  the  thumb  and  finger.  When 
the  baking  pan  is  full  of  the  turnovers, 
brush  them  over  with  egg-and-water, 
and  dredge  granulated  sugar  on  top. 
Bake  slowly  till  they  are  crisp,  glazed 
and  of  a  fine  reddish  brown  color.  These 
large  sizes  have  generally  to  be  cut  in 
two.  They  contain  more  fruit  and  are 
better  eating  when  made  small. 


Cost  op  Mateeial. — Four  turnovers 
— crust  4,  apple  marmalade,  2,  e^^  and 
sugar  glaze,  2;  8  c.  or  1  cent  each  order. 


133— Puff  Paste. 

1     pound  of  cold  flour. 

15  ounces  of  cold  butter. 

1     cupftil  of  ice  water. 

Gei  quite  ready  to  make  the  paste  be- 
fore you  begin,  that  it  may  be  done 
quickly.  It  will  not,  perhaps,  belightand 
good  if  allowed  to  stand  long  in  a  warm 
room.     Leave  out  a  handful  of  fiour  to 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


46. 


dust  with.  Make  a  hollow  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  rest  in  a  pan,  ponr  in  the  ice- 
water  and  mix  up  gradually  with  the 
fingers.  Turn  the  paste  on  the  table 
double  and  press  a  little  to  make  it, 
smooth.  Roll  it  out  to  half  an  inch 
thickness,  pound  the  butter  with  a  potato 
masher  to  make  it  pliable,  drop  half  of 
it  in  lumps  all  over  the  sheet  of  paste, 
flif  t  a  veiy  little  flour  over,  press  down  the 
lumps  of  butter,  fold  over  in  three  and 
turn  the  broad  side  toward  you.  Roll 
out  agam,  drop  the  rest  of  the  butter  as 
before,  fold  in  three  and  count  that  one. 
Roll  out  evenly  with  plenty  of  flour  to 
prevent  sticking,  fold  over  in  three  and 
count  that  two.  Do  the  same  four  times 
more,  making  six  folds  (beside  the  first 
one  not  counted)  and  it  is  ready  for  use, 
but  should  be  allowed  to  stand  aw;]iile 
in  the  refrigerator  to  lose  the  tendency 
it  has  when  first  made  to  draw  up  out  of 
shape.  • 

If  you  have  a  good  refrigerator  at 
hand  the  puff  paste  will  be  the  better  for 
being  set  in  it  after  the  thkd  folding  and 
allowed  to  remain  ^  hour  and  then  taken 
out  and  finished  rolling,  but,  it  not,  the 
only  way  to  have  the  paste  good  is  to 
start  with  cold  material  and  make  it  and 
bake  it  so  quickly  that  it  has  not  time  to 
warm  and  melt  in  the  meantime. 


Cost  of  material — butter  23,  flour  3; 
26  cents  for  2J  pounds.  Makes  5  pies 
with  single  bottom  crusts,  or  3  covered — 
depending  upon  the  size  or  20  turnovers 
or  20  to  25  tarts  in  patty  pans,  or  10  to 
16  tartlets  like  the  following. 

Note — Lard  of  a  solid,  firm  sort  will 
make  puff  paste  that  is  quite  as  good 
as  that  made  with  butter,  and  that  rises 
nearly  as  high  in  the  baking;  and  the 
cost  is  reduced  according  to  the  differ- 
ence in  price  per  pound.  But  soft  lard 
cannot  be  used  for  this  purpose.  The 
best  common  flaky  paste  is  made  with 
half  lard  and  half  butler,  with  salt 
sprinkled  over  the  lard,  the  butter  put 
into  the  dough  first,  and  the  whole  of 
the  ingredients  kept  as  cold  as  possible. 


134— Cherry  Tartlets. 

1  heaping  cup  ripe  cherries. 

1  level  cup  light  brown  sugar. 
lJ^X)unds  puff  paste. 

Set  the  cherries  on  to  cook  in  a  smalt 
saucepan  with  a  bastingspoon  of  water, 
and  sugar  spread  over  the  top.  Put  on 
the  lid  and  let  simmer  slowly  then  set 
them  away  to  become  cold.  The  fruit 
for  this  purpose  should  be  rich  with  a 
thick  strong  syrup,  because  only  a  small 
quantity  is  used  and  it  should  not  run 
out  of  the  tartlets. 

Roll  the  puff  paste  to  ^  inch  thick,  cut 
out  with  a  biscuit  cutter,  and  cut  the 
middle  of  each  part  way  through  with  a 
smaller  cutter.  Put  them  in  a  hot  oven 
and  when  they  are  risen  open  the  door 
partly  and  let  them  dry  well  done.  Take 
out  the  middle  piece  with  a  knife  point 
and  fill  the  tarttets  with  the  stewed  fruit. 

Cost — about  2c  each,  or  according  to 
whether  fresh  or  cannnd  frut  is  used  and 
the  price. 

135— Tipsy    Pudding. 

Sheets  of  sponge  cake  partly  saturated 
with  rum  and  set  in  a  pan  of  cold  boiled 
custard,     For  the  cake  make  this: 

•J  cupful  of  sugar  4  ounces. 

2  eggs. 

6  tablespoonfuls  of  water. 

1  cup  of  flour — 4  ounces. 

1  teaspoonful  baking  powder. 

Separate  the  eggs— the  whites  in  a 
bowl  or  dish,  the  yolks  in  the  mixing 
pan.  Put  the  sugar  and  water  in  with 
the  yolks,  and  beat  them  till  they  are  a 
thick  yellow  froth.  Mix  the  powder  in 
the  flour,  add  that  and  stir  up  well. 
Whip  the  whites  firm,  add  them  last. 

Grease  and  flour  2  jelly  cake  pans,  di- 
vide the  mixture  into  them  and  bake  of 
a  very  light  color.  When  done  place 
the  sheets  of  cake  one  on  the  other  in  a 
pan  and  pour  ^  cup  of  rum  or  brandy 
into  them  with  a  teaspoon.  Have  ready 
2  cups  of  custard  and  pour  around.  Cut 
in  8  and  serve  like  pudding  and  sauce. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


47. 


Cost  of  material — sugar  and  flour  3, 
eggs  4,  powder  1,  rum  12,  custard  9, 
29c,  for  8  dishes  3  or  4  cents  an  order. 

136— Boiled    Custard. 


2  cups  milk. 

2  eggs. 

2  heaping  tablespoons  sugar. 

Flavoring  of  nutmeg  or  stick  cinna- 
mon. Boil  the  milk  with  half  the  sugar 
in  it  to  prevent  burning  on  the  bottom. 
Beat  the  two  eggs  in  a  cup  with  the  rest 
of  the  sugar  and  a  spoonful  of  milk 
added.  When  the  milk  boils  pour  a 
little  to  the  eggs,  then  turn  all  into  the 
saucepan  and  stir  until  it  thickens  and 
shows  signs  of  boiling.  Too  much  cook- 
ing will  spoil  it. 

137— Caramel  Ice  Cream. 


3  cups  rich  milk. 

1  cup  cream. 

6  yolks  of  eggs. 

2  tablespoons  sugar  forcaramel 
8  tablespoons  sugar  to  sweeten 
J  cupcuracoa. 

Set  the  2  ounces  of  sugar  over  the  fire 
in  a  little  saucepan,  without  water,  and 
let  it  melt  and  brown  to  the  color  of  ma- 
ple syrup,  then  add  to  it  a  few  spoons- 
tuls  of  water  and  set  it  at  the  side  to 
dissolve  and  make  liquid  caramel. 

Boil  the  3  cups  of  milk  with  half  the 
sugar  in  it,  beat  the  yolks  with  the  rept 
of  the  sugar  and  a  spoonful  of  milk  added, 
pour  them  and  the  milk  together  and 
cook  a  minute  carefully  to  make  smooth 
yellow  custard.  Add  the  caramel  to  it 
and  strain  it  into  the  freezer,  pour  in  the 
curacoa  when  cold  and  whip  the  cup  of 
cream  and  add  that  and  freeze  with 
rapid  beating. 

Cost  of  material — milk  and  cream  10, 
eggs  8,  sugar  7,  curacoa  20,  ice  and 
salt  10,  55  cents  for  about  2  quarts  af- 
ter freezing. 

138— Clams   on  the  Half  Shell. 


The   smallest    clams     are    preferred. 
Wash    the    outride    thoroughly    before 


opening.  Loosen  the  clams  from  shell 
they  are  served  in  and  retain  all  the 
liquor  the  shell  will  hold.  Place  4  or  5 
in  each  plate  and  half  a  lemon  in  the 
middle. 


Cost — depends  on  locality.  The  fur- 
ther from  the  sea  shore  the  more  of  a 
variety  to  serve  at  a  fine  diner. 


139— Consomme  Royal. 

We  have  no  word  in  English  for  ron- 
somme  but  broth,  and  that  is  not  an 
equivalentjbut  only  a  substitute.  French 
cooks  understand  by  consomme  a  clear 
soup  as  rich  as  melted  jelly.  Consomme 
royal  is  of  the  color  of  brandy,  with  little 
egg  custards  floating  ic  it. 

•Simmer  a  large  fowl  and  two  or 
more  shanks  of  veal  in  a  gallon  )f  water 
for  three  or  four  hours,  and  while  it  is 
cooking  add  the  vegetables  and  seiason- 
ings.  These  should  be  the  usual  soup 
bunch  (without  parsnips  or  green  onion 
tops,  however),  together  with  a  stalk  of 
celery,  half  a  bay  leaf,  a  teaspoonful  of 
bruised  pepper-coras  and  a  sprig  of 
green  thyme  or  marjoram. 

When  it  has  boiled  long  enough  strain 
the  broth  into  a  saucepan. 

To  clarify  the  consomme,chop  a  pound 
of  lean  beef  fine,  mix  with  it  two  whites 
of  eggs  and  a  cup  of  cold  water.  Then 
pour  the  broth  to  the  be^f,  stir  up  and 
boil  again.  Strain  through  a  napkin  or 
jelly  bag,  season  with  salt,  color  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  dissolved  burnt  sugar  and 
remove  every  particle  of  grease. 

To  make  the  floating  custards  take  three 
or  four  yolks  of  eggs,  raw,  and  mix 
with  them  a  spoonful  of  the  consomme. 
Poui-  into  a  slightly  buttered  saucer  and 
steam  it  until  done — 10  minutes.  Cut 
the  custard  in  diamond  shapes  and  drop 
three  or  tour  in  each  soup  plate. 


Where  it  is  not  necessary  to  be  ex- 
tremely particular  good  clear  soup  can 
be  obtained  by  letting  the  soup-stock  get 
cold  in  a  jar  and  after  taking  off  the  fat, 
pouring    it   off  without    disturbing  the 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


48. 


eediment.  Strain  through  a  napkin, 
make  hot  and  add  the  spoonful  of  coloring 
and  Bait  as  before. 

Cost  of  material — chicken  to  be  used 
in  salad  or  patties  0,  veal  16,  vegetables 
5,  beef  10,  eggs,  6;  37c  for  2  quarts, 
or  3c  per  plate. 

140— Vegetable  Soup. 


2  quarts  of  soup  stock — 8  or  10  cups. 

3  cups  mixed  vegetables. 
Seasonings. 

Take  for  the  stock  the  liquor  in  which 
any  kind  of  meat  has  been  boiled — be  e 
shank,  mutton,  heart,  tongue,  fowl,  rab 
bit,  etc.,  and  corned  beef  liquor  does 
very  well.  The  richer  the  stock  can  be, 
of  course  the  better  it  is.  Strain  it  into 
the  soup  pot.  Skim  off  most  of  the  fat 
almost  every  kind  of  vegetable  can  be 
used.  Take  a  piece  of  each  andc  ut  al 
into  dice  shapes,  or,  if  to  be  very  nice, 
cut  vegetables  in  slices  and  stamp  out 
little  patterns  with  a  tin  cutter  or  the 
point  of  a  tin  funnel.  There  should  be 
turnips  white  and  yellow,  carrot,  pump- 
kin, celery,  siring  beans,  green  peas, 
onions,  summer  squash,  cauliflower.  If 
vegetables  are  scarce,  a  little  parsnip 
and  cabbage  and  potatoes  can  be  used, 
but  the  latter  put  in  late  so  as  not  to  boil 
away. 

Boil  the  hard  vegetables,  such  as  car- 
rots, turnips,  onions,  string  beans  and 
celery,  together  in  a  little  saucepan  first; 
then  pour  the  water  away  and  put  the 
vegetables  in  the  boiling  stock,  and  add 
the  easy-cooking  kinds,  such  as  cauli- 
flower, asparagus  heads  and  peas — 
whatever  may  be  on  hand.  At  last  add 
apiece  of  red  tomato,  cut  small,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
com  Btarchjnixed  in  a  cup  with  water. 


Cost — about  10c  per  quart  or  8  plates 
141— Baked  Sea  Bass. 


Scale  and  clean  the  fish;  leave  the 
bead  on  if  it  ii  to  be  sent  to  table  whole. 
Make  a  stuffing  for  it  of  2  pressed  cupfuls 
of  bread   crumbs,  a  email  cupful  of  but-  ( three   hours. 


ter,  rind  of  a  quarter  of  lemon  minced 
fine,  parsely, green  thyme  and  marjoram, 
and  pepper  and  salt,  and  two  eggs 
mixed  with  a  spoonful  of  water  to  mois- 
ten it.  Sew  up  the  fish  when  stuffed, 
lilark  it  in  slices  as  if  to  be  carved,  on 
both  sides,  by  cutting  down  to  the  bone, 
and  put  a  thin  slice  of  salt  pork  in  each 
incision.  Bake  in  a  long  pan,  with  soup 
stock  and  salt  and  pepper  in  it, 
about  30  or  40  minutes,  or  according  to 
size.  Put  a  little  strained  tomatoes  and 
brown  gravy  into  the  fish  pan,  and  water 
if  necessary;  let  boil  up,  skim  and  strain 
for  sauce. 


Cost  of  material — 3  lbs  fish  36,  pork 
slices  for  insertion  and  sci-aps  in  baking 
pan  6,  stuffing  and  sauce  15;  57c  for  8 
to  12  orders  or  5  or  6c  per  plate. 

142— Small   Potatoes. 


Scoop  out  balls  size  of  cherries  from 
large  potatoes  with  a  potato  spoon.  A 
cupful  will  make  enough  for  a  dozen 
plates  of  fish.  ;A[ake  J  cup  of  butter 
and  -J  cup  of  lard  hot  in  a  very  small 
saucepan  and  drop  the  potato  balk  in  and 
let  them  stew  slowly.  As  soon  as  the 
butter  gets  down  to  the  frying  point  and 
the  potatoes  and  sediment  begin  to 
brown  on  the  bottom  pour  off  all  the 
grease  and  set  the  potatoes  in  the  oven 
a  few  minutes  to  acquire  a  handsome 
color.  Sprinkle  salt  and  chopped  pars- 
ley among  them.  Serve  a  tablespoon- 
ful with  each  plate  of  fish.  These  are 
not  the  same  as  fried  potatoes  and  when 
first  put  into  the  boiling  butter  and  lard 
they  must  be  stirred  from  the  bottom 
once  or  twice  lest  they  scorch  and  ac- 
quire a  bad  taste. 

143— Boiled 


Corned    Tongue, 
Sauce. 


Caper 


Fresh  tongues  put  in  a  jar  and  cover- 
ed with  the  brine  or  pickel  No.  106,  will 
be  of  a  good  pink  color  and  nicely  salted 
in  from  a  week  to  ten  days. 

Wash  off  the  corned  tongue  and  boil  it 
Plunge  it  in  cold    water 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


49. 


and  pelt  off  the  skin  then  set  in  a  hot 
place.  In  carving  cut  slantingly  to 
make  long  slices  that  will  not  ran  out 
too  small  at  the  thin  end .  Serve  with 
caper  sauce,  which  is  butter  sauce  with 
a  little  of  the  caper  vinegar  mixed  in  and 
the  capers — about  a  teaspoonful— dashed 
on  top  of  the  sauce  on  the  meat. 

Cost  of  material — tongue  35,   sauce 
5;  40c  for  8  to  12  orders  or  4c  per  plate. 

144— Roast  Rib  Ends  of  Beef. 


Take  the  ends  of  the  ribs  that  are. 
eawed  off  the  rib  roasts,  and  put  them  in 
to  cook  early,  while  brealrfast  is  still 
going  on.  Let  there  be  in  the  baking 
pan,  which  should  be  a  deep  one, a  hand- 
ful of  salt,  2  or  3  ladlefuls  of  sweet 
fresh  drippings  from  the  previous  day's 
roasting,  and  about  as  much  water  or 
Boup  stock,  and  let  simmer  in  the  oven, 
never  getting  quite  without  water  in  the 
pan  till  very  nearly  time  to  serve  dinner. 
K  other  meats  have  to  be  crowded  into 
the  same  pan  let  these  rib  ends  be  at 
the  bottom,  they  will  be  so  much  the 
richer  and  keep  on  cooking  in  the  gravy 
till  tender  and  glutinous.  At  last,  the 
water  being  all  evaporated  out  of  the  pan, 
roll  these  rib  ends  over  and  over  in  the 
natural  glaze  that  remains  on  the  bottom 
and  take  them  out  brown  and  shining 
before  they  likewise  get  dry.  Serve 
cuts  of  2  or  3  ribs  with  gravy. 

Cost  of  material — 3  lbs  beef  rib  ends 
18,  seasonings  and  gravy  2;  20c  for  8  or 
10  orders. 


145— The  Side  of  Lamb. 


The  dainty  dish  of  spring  lamb  may 
easily  be  spoiled,  or  at  least  made 
very  unsatisfactory  by  careless  cutting. 
K  you  take  off  the  shoulder  it  will 
scarcely  make  two  good  orders  when 
roasted,  and  the  ribs  underneath  it  will 
amount  to  nothing.  Nearly  all  who 
choose  their  cuts  ask  for  the  ribs  and  tlie 
carver  needs  all  that  the  cook  can  fur- 
nish. 


Instead  of  taking  the  shoulder  off,bone 
it  where  it  is,  beginning  at  the  throat. 
Cut  along  on  both  sides  of  the  blade 
bone  and  pull  it  out.  There  will  not  be 
much  time  for  careful  boning,  nor  is  it 
necessary,  five  minutes  or  less  will  do. 
Saw  the  ribs  across  the  middle,  hack 
through  the  back  bone  with  the  point  of 
a  sharp  cleaver  at  two  ribs  apart  and 
hack  the  brisket  through  ready  for  carv- 
ing in  the  same  manner.  Then  pull  the 
meat  of  the  shoulder  well  over  the  bris- 
ket and  fasten  it  with  a  skewer  or  two. 
When  carved,  the  ribs  will  carry  a  good, 
meaty  slice  of  the  shoulder  with  them, 
and  with  a  little  management  the  brisked 
en  Is  of  the  ribs  can  be  equally  well  por- 
tioned off. 

The  side  thus  prepared  should  be 
roasted  in  one  piece,  loin  and  flank  in- 
cluded, but  the  leg  requiring  more  time 
to  cook,  should  be  made  a  separate  cut. 
The  loin  should  likewise  be  careftdly 
hacked  through  the  back  bone  ready  for 
carving  into  slices  like  loin  chops. 

146~Roast  Lamb—Mint  Sauce. 


It  cooks  in  from  30  to  45  minutes. 
Should  be  fairly  done  through  and  no 
more.     Needs  to  be  in  a  pan  by  itself. 

Having  prepared  the  meat  as  directed 
above,  wash  it  in  cold  water,  dredge 
both  sides  with  salt  and  flour,  by  pres- 
sing both  sides  down  into  a  pan  of 
flour  and  shake  off  the  surplus.  Place  it 
with  the  outside  upwards  in  a  baking 
pan  already  hot  and  containing  a  little 
saltwaterand  drippings.  Whentheupper 
side  has  cooked  so  that  the  flour  will 
not  wash  off  begin  to  baste  it  and 
repeat  frequently.  If  a  quarter  pound 
of  quite  fresh  butter  can  be  had  melt  it 
and  baste  the  lamb  with  it  at  the  finish. 
The  butter  froths  upon  meat  and  gives 
it  a  fine  color. 

Cost  of  material — fore-quarter  of  lamb, 
or  4  lbs,  60,  mint  sauce  5;  65c  for  12 
dishes  or  5  or  6c  per  order. 


147— ^Mint  Sauce  for  Roast  Lamb. 


The  conventional  lamb    sauce.       No 


50 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETIES 


other  sauce  or  gravy  is  needed  when 
this  is  used; 

2  tablespoons  green  mint. 

1  tablespoon  sugar. 

■J  cup  vinegar. 

Pick  the  leaves  of  mint  from  the 
Btems,  wash  and  chop  fine,  and  mix  with 
the  sugar  and  a  inegar  in  a  bowl.  Serve 
cold,  a  spoonful  to  each  plate. 


148— Roast  Green  Goose. 


Singe  and  pick  the  young  goose  free 
from  pin-feathers  and  draw  it.  If  to  send 
the  table  whole,  the  pinions  should  be 
cut  oflF  before  cooking  and  the  main  wing 
joints  skewered  to  the  back,  and  the 
legs  held  compactly  to  the  side  either 
with  skewers  or  twine.  Fry  a  minced 
onion  in  butter,  light  yellow,  and  not 
at  all  dark  and  strong,  and  mix  it 
with  some  dry  mashed  potatoes;  add 
an  e^^  and  the  butter  that  the  onion 
was  fried  in  and  a  seasoning  of  white 
pepper.  Stuff  the  goose  with  the  sea- 
soned potato,  sew  up,  bake  it  in  a  pan 
for  about  one  hour,  or  more,  if  large. 
Dredge  the  goose  over  with  flour  when 
nearly  done,  and  baste  it  with  butter, 
which  will  pmduce  a  fine  crust  and 
brown  color.  ' 

If  to  be  sent  in  whole,  bake  some 
small  apples  in  a  pan  covered  with 
greased  paper  and  place  them  around 
the  goose  in  a  dish. 

Cost  of  material — the  same  as  spring 
lamb,  about  6  or  7c  an  order,  according 
to  market  price. 

149— Cucumber  Salad. 

Slice  the  cucumbers  two  hours  before 
they  are  wanted  and  sprinkle  the  slices 
plentifully  with  salt.  Set  the  dish  in  the 
refrigerator.  Just  before  dinner  drain 
away  the  salt  liquor  from  the  cucum- 
bers and  shake  them  about  with  oil  first, 
and  then  with  vinegar  and  pepper.  Serve 
on  a  very  cold  dish. 

150-Turkey   Salad. 

Take  the  remamder  of  a  cooked  tur- 
key or  half  a  boiled  turkey,  if  cooked 
for  the  purpose,  pick   all  the    meat  from 


the  bones  and  remove  the  thick  fat  and 
skin,  cut  the  meat  into  long  shreds  and 
then  across,  making  the  smallest,  pos- 
sible dice  shapes.  Cut  celery,  if  in  sea- 
son, the  same  way,  about  two-thirds  as 
much  celery  as  there  is  turkey,  or  if 
that  is  not  in  season  use  crisp  lettuce  or 
a  mixture  of  lettuce  and  finely  chop* 
ped  white  cabbage,  and  add  celery  salt 
or  extract  or  celery  vinegar.  Mix  meat 
and  the  vegetables  together,  season 
slightly  with  Depper  and  salt.  Pour  in 
a  little  salad  oil — say  a  quarter  cupful, 
stir  about  and  then  stir  in  as  much  vin- 
egar. Heap  and  smooth  over  the  salad 
in  a  large  platter — it  will  adhere  and 
keep  shape  well — then  pour  and  spread 
over  it  a  well-seasoned  mayonaise. 

After  spreading  the  mayonaise  over 
the  turkey  salad,  ornament  with  quar- 
ters of  hard  boiled  eggs  or  with  chop- 
ped yolks  and  parsley,  olives,  cut  lem- 
ons or  shapes  stamped  out  of  cooked 
beets. 


Cost  of  material — 2  lbs  turkey  meat 
or  chicken  40,  oil,  vinegar  and  season- 
ings 10,  celery  and  garnishings  10,  may- 
onaise 15;  75c  for  2  quarts,  or  from  8 
to  16  orders;  or,  40c  per  quart  or  5c 
per  hotel  dinner  dish. 

151— Mayonaise  Salad   Dressing. 

2  raw  yolks  of  eggs . 

^  teacup  olive  oil. 

About  half  as  much  vinegar  or  lemon 
juice. 

A  level  teaspoon  salt. 

Same  of  made  mustard. 

Pinch  of  cayenne. 

Put  the  two  raw  yolks  in  a  pint  bowl, 
add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  set  the 
bowl  in  ice-water  or  otherwise  make  it 
cold,  and  beat  with  a  Dover  egg-beater 
about  a  half  a  minute.  Then  add  more 
oil  and  whip,  and  then  throw  in  the  salt, 
and  on  whipping  again  the  mixture  will 
at  once  thicken  up,  looking  like  softened 
butter.  Then  add  a  spoonful  of  vinegar, 
then  oil  and  so  on  alternately  till  all  is 
in.  Add  the  mustard  and  cayenne  for 
seasoning.       The     best  mayonaise     is 


GOOKNG  FOR   PROFIT. 


51 


made  with  lemon  juice  instead  of  part 
of  the  vinegar,  and  when  it  will  not 
thicken  as  desired  the  lemon  juice  inva- 
riably corrects  the  trouble  and  gives  the 
dressing  the  desired  consistency.  It 
should  not  be  thin  enough  to  run,  but 
should  coat  over  the  pile  of  salad  mate- 
rial it  is  spread  upon.  The  foregoing 
shows  the  quickest  method  of  making 
this  important  sauce  or  dressing;  the 
egg-beater  or  the  want  of  it  need  not, 
however,  be  an  obstacle  in  the  way,  for 
simply  stirring  around  in  the  bowl  with 
a  wooden  spoon  is  the  way  most  com- 
monly p'-acticed. 

152— Water  Cress   Salad. 

Cut  away  the  rough  stems,  pick  off 
the  root  fibers,  and  wash  the  cress  care- 
fully. Drain,  cut  it  in  inch  lengths, 
Beason  in  a  bowl  with  a  little  salt  and 
pepper,  and  when  they  are  mixed  in 
sprinkle  with  vinegar.  Serve  in  small 
salad  dishes  individually, 

153— Lambs'  Tongues  with  Artichokes. 

Take  for  preference,  corned  lambs*  or 
sheeps*  tongues  of  a  good  pink  color,  and 
boil  them  not  less  than  2  hours,  which 
may  be  done  the  evening  before  they 
are  served,  if  more  convenient.  Put 
them  into  cold  water  and  peel  off  the 
outside  and  split  them  lengthwise  in  two. 

Having  the  halves  ready  in  a  dish 
when  the  roast  meat  is  done,  after  taking 
it  out  lay  the  tongues  in  the  fat  and 
glaze  in  the  baking  pun  for  about  5  min- 
utes,then  take  them  out  slightly  browned 
and  glazed  and  keep  hot. 

Cook  an  artichoke  for  each  dish,  as 
directed  further  on,  boiling  them,  that  is 
to  say,  like  summer  cabbage  or  cauli- 
flower, but  cut  them  in  halves  instead 
of  quarters;  only  scoop  out  the  fibrous 
part  before  cooking.  Drain  them  well. 
Serve  half  a  tongue  in  the  small  dish 
and  a  half  artichoke  at  each  end,  and  a 
Bpoonful  of  brown  gravy  over  the  vege- 
table without  covering  the  tongue. 
Tongue  and  spinach  may  be  served  the 
same  way. 

Cost  of  material — 4  tongues  20,  arti- 


chokes and  gravy  10;  30c  for  8  dishes  or 
about  4  cents  per  order. 

154— Spaghetti  and  Cheese— Romaine. 

Spaghetti  is  maccoroni  in  another  form, 
a  solid  cord  instead  of  a  tube. 

4  ounces  spaghetti — 2  cups  when 
broken . 

1  cup  minced  cheese — 2  ounces. 

1  cup  milk. 

Butter  size  of  an  q^^, 

2  yolks  of  eggs . 

This  dish  ought  to  t)e  quite  yellow. 
Throw  the  spaghetti  into  water  that  is 
already  boiling,  and  salted.  After  cook- 
ing 20  minutes  drain  it  dry,  and  put  it 
into  the  buttered  dish  it  is  to  be  baked 
in. 

Put  the  cheese  and  butter  and  half 
the  milk  into  a  saucepan  and  stir  them 
over  the  fire  till  the  cheese  is  nearly 
melted,  mix  the  yolks  with  the  rest  of 
the  milk,  pour  that  into  the  saucepan, 
then  add  the  whole  to  the  spaghetti  in 
the  pan,  and  bake  it  a  yellow  brown  in 
as  short  i  time  as  possible.  It  loses  its 
richness  if  cooked  too  long,  through  the 
toughening  of  the  cheese. 

Cost  of  material — spaghetti  4,  cheese 
3,  milk  1,  butter  3,  egg-yolks  3;  14c 
for  8  orders,  or  about  2c  per  dish. 

155— Vanilla    Puff   fritters — Rum 
Sauce. 

1  cup  water—  ^  pint. 

^  cup  butter-  -3  ^  ounces. 

2  rounded  tablespoons  sugar. 

I  rounded  cup  flour^S  ounces. 

3  large  eggs. 

1  teaspoon  vanilla  extract. 

Boil  the  water  with  the  sugar  and 
butter  in  it  in  a  deep  saucepan.  Drop 
in  the  flour  all  at  once  and  stir  the  mix- 
ture over  the  fire  till  you  have  a  firm, 
well-cooked  paste.  Take  it  from  the 
fire  and  work  in  the  egg«  one  at  a  time 
with  a  spoon,  and  beat  the  paste  well 
against  the  side  of  the  sancepan.  Add 
the  vanilla  with  the  last  egg.  The  more 
the  paste  is  beaten  the  more  the  pu£b 
will  expand  in  the  frying  fat. 


52 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETJE'S 


Make  some  lard  hot.  It  will  take 
half  a  saucepauful.  Drop  pieces  of  the 
batter  about  as  large  as  eggs  and  watch 
them  swell  and  expand  in  the  hot  lard 
and  become  hollow  and  light.  Only  four 
or  five  at  a  time  can  be  fried  because 
they  need  lots  of  room. 

The  fritters  being  slightly  sweet  will 
be  liable  to  fry  too  dark  if  the  lard  be 
made  too  hot;  and  they  may  be  as  much 
as  five  minutes  in  it  before  they  begin  to 
swell  and  roll  over. 


Cost  of  material — butter  8,  sugar 
and  vanilla  2,  flour  1,  eggs  6,  lard  to 
fry  damaged  4  21c  for  12  fritters — rum 
sauce  11 — 32  cents  for  12  dishes  of  frit- 
ters with  rum  sauce  or  about  3c  per 
order. 


156— Rum  Sauce  for  Fritters. 

1  cup  water. 

i  cup  sugar. 

1  rounded  tablespoon  starch. 

^  a  lemon — without  the  seeds. 

1  ounce  butter. 

1  bastingspoon  of  rum. 

Boil  the  water.  Mix  the  starch  with 
the  sugar  dry  and  stir  them  in.  Slice 
the  lemon  into  it  and  add  the  butter  and 
let  the  sauce  simmer  at  the  side  until  it 
becomes  quite  transparent.  Then  add 
the  rum.  Pour  a  spoonful  over  each 
fritter  as  they  are  dished  up. 

Cost — 11  or  12  cents. 

1 57— B rowned  Potatoes. 


Pare  the  potatoes  and  steam  them, and 
the  broken  ones  being  used  to  mash,  or 
a  la  duchesse,  put  the  others  in  a  small 
pan  with  some  of  the  drippings  from  the 
roast  lamb  pan  and  a  dredf  ing  of  salt 
and  bake  them  brown.  Cold  boiled  or 
baked  potatoea  are  not  fit  for  this  pur- 
pose— they  can  be  used  better  for  break- 
fast dishes. 


158— Cauliflower  in   Cream. 

Cauliflower  takes  from  half  to  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  to  cook  done.  It 
should  not   boil  rapidly  enough   to   de- 


stroy the  small  flowerets.  Try  the  stems 
with  a  fork  and  take  off  when  tender.  A 
lump  of  baking  soda  the  size  of  a 
bean  in  the  water  will  hasten  the  cook- 
ing without  injuring  the  vegetable. 

Divide  the  cauliflower  into  portions  of 
convenient  size  before  cooking,  and 
when  drained  and  dished  up  pour  a 
spoonful  or  two  of  good  strained  cream 
sauce  over  each  portion. 


159— Stewed  Butter    Bean^. 

Throw  Lima  or  butter  beans  into  a 
sauce-pan  of  water  that  is  already  boil- 
ing and  has  salt  in  it,  and  cook  about 
half-hour,  if  green  beans,  but  if  dried 
they  will  take  one  and  a  half  hours,  be- 
sides a  previous  soaking  in  water.  Drain 
away  tho  water,  and  mix  a  little  cream 
sauce  or  butter  sauce,  or  add  milk,  but- 
ter and  salt,  and  thicken  when  it  boils 
up. 

160— Artichokes  as  a  Vegetable. 

Let  ihe  artichokes  lie  in  a  pan  of  cold 
water,the  same  as  is  the  rule  for  cauliflow- 
er,spinach,etc.,  an  hour  or  two  before  they 
are  to  be  cooked.  Wash  well,  and  if 
the  tips  of  the  leaves  are  discolored, 
clip  them;  cut  the  artichokes  in  4  and 
remove  the  stringy  core.  Have  the  water 
ready  boiling,  put  in  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  baking  soda  the  size  of  a  bean, 
boil  the  artichokes  about  J  hour  or  until 
the  soft  end  of  the  leaf  when  ^julled  out 
proves  to  be  tender.  Drain  and  serve 
like  cauliflower,  2  pieces  in  a  dish,  and 
a  spoonful  of  butter  sauce  poured  over. 

161— Indian  Fruit  Pudding. 

3  cups  milk  or  water — 1 J  pints. 
1  cup  yellow  corn-meal — 6  ounces. 

1  teacup  minced  suet — 3  ounces. 

J  teacup  black  molasses — 3  ounces, 

2  eggs.     Little  salt. 

1  cup  seedless  raisins — 4  ounces. 

Same  of  currants. 

^  teaspoon  ginger,  cinnamon,  or  grated 
lemon  rind. 

Make  mush  with  the  meal  and  water 
and  let  it  cook  well  with  the  steam  shut 


COOKING  FOR    PROFIT, 


53 


in  for  an  hour  or  two.  Then  mix  in  all 
the  other  ingredients,  the  fruit  previously 
dusted  with  flour,  and  bake  it  in  a  pan 
or  mold  about  an  hour.  Cover  with 
greased  paper  to  keep  the  fruit  from 
blistering.  Three  heaping  cups  of  com- 
meal  mush  ready  made  will  do  as  well. 
The  above  makes  a  quart  of  pudding. 

Cost  of  material — meal  2,  suet  or  but- 
ter 3,    molasses   2,    eggs   4,   raisins  5 
currants  and  spices  5;  21c  for  8  orders — 
with  sauce  3c  per  dish. 


162— Rich    Lemon    Pie. 


7  ounces  sugar — a  cupful. 

3  lemons. 

1  cup  rich  cream. 

6  yolks  of  eggs  and  2  whites. 

Place  the  sugar  in  a  bowl  and  grate 
the  lemon  rinds  into  it  with  a  tin  greater, 
and  then  squeeze  in  the  juice.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  eggs  light  and  mix  the  cream 
with  them;  pour  this  to  the  lemon  and 
sugar,  and  just  before  filling  the  pie 
crusts  with  the  mixture  whip  the  two 
whites  to  a  froth  and  stir  them  in. 

Use  puff-paste  to  line  the  pie  pans. 
The  mixture  will  fill  two  pies,  or  three  if 
small.  It  is  hard  to  bake  without  brown- 
ing the  top  too  much,  so  they  should  be 
under  the  shelf  of  the  oven.  These  rich 
pies  do  not  need  frosting,only  a  dredging 
of  powdered  sugar. 

Cost  of  material — sugar  5,  lemons  6, 
cream  6,  eggs  12,  paste  6;  35c  for  10 
portions,  or  3  or  4  cents  each  order. 


163— White  Cocoanut  Pie. 


1  cup  milk. 

2  tablespoons  sugar. 

1  rounded  tablespoon  starch. 

2  or  3  ounces  grated  cocoanut. 

3  or  4  whites  of  eggs. 
Small  piece  of  butter. 
Pinch  of  salt. 

Boil  the  milk  alone.  Mix  the  starch 
and  sugar  together  dry  and  stir  them  in; 
then    the   butter  and    cocoanut.     Set  it 


away  to  get  cold.  Whip  the  whites  to 
a  firm  froth  and  mix  them  with  the  pie- 
mixture.  Bake  in  thin  crusts  of  puff 
paste.     Makes  two  small  pies. 

Cost  of  material — milk  2,  sugar  and 
starch  2,  cocoanut  5,  butter  1,  eggs  4, 
crusts  for  2  pies  5;  19  cents  for  8  por- 
tiaos,  or  2  to  3c  per  order. 

164 — Apricot  Ice. 

3  cupfuls  of  apricots  cut  in  pieces-. 

1  cupful  of  sugar — 8  ounce^. 

2  cupfuls  of  water. 

The  kernels  of  half  the  apricots. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 

The  ripest  and  sweetest  apricots,  if  the 
fresh  fruit  be  used,  should  be  kept  out, 
one  cupful  to  be  mixed  in  the  ice  when 
finished. 

Stew  the  other  two  cupfuls  and  the 
peeled  kernels  in  the  water  and  sugar  for 
a  few  minutes,  rub  the  fruit  then  with 
the  back  of  a  spoon,  through  a  strainer 
into  the  freezer  along  with  the  syrup. 
Freeze  like  ice  cream  and  when  it  is 
nearly  finished  whip  the  two  whites  to  a 
firm  froth,  mix  them  in  and  turn  the 
freezer  rapidly  a  short  time  longer.  Stir 
in  the  cut  apricots  just  before  serving. 
Canned  apricots  can  be  used  as  well,  and 
if  in  syrup  that  can  be  mixed  in  also. 

Cost  of  material — apricots  25,  sugar 
5,  white  of  eggs  4,  ice  and  salt  10;  44c 
for  3  pints  or  8  to  12  dishes,  or  4c  per 
order. 


165— Fine  White  Cake. 


18  ounces  granulated  sugar — 2J  ends 

8  ounces  white  butter — 1  large  cup. 

J  pint  of  milk — 1  large  cup. 

6  ounces  of  com  starch — 1  roupde. 
cup. 

12  ounces  of  flour — 3  rounded  cups, 

2  large  teaspoonfuls  cream  tartar. 

1  small  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

12  whites  of  eggs. 

Vanilla  extract  to  flavor. 

Sift  the  cream  tartar  in  the  flour  three 
or  four  times  over. 


54 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  OAZETIITS 


Mix  the  starch  in  a  email  bowl  with 
the  cup  of  milk. 

Get  the  whites  of  eggs  ready  in  a  tin 
pail  or  large  whipping  bowl. 

Dissolve  the  soda  m  two  spoonfuls  of 
milk  in  a  cup. 

Put  the  sugar  and  butter  together  in 
the  mixing  pan,  warm  them  slightly  and 
stir  till  creamy  and  add  the  dissolved 
soda.  Srir  in  the  com  starch  and  milk. 
Whip  the  whites  to  a  firm  froth  and  mix 
them  and  the  prepared  flour  in  a  portion 
of  each  alternately.  Flavor.  Bake  as 
soon  as  mixed ;  either  in  layers  for  choc- 
olate cake  or  in  mold.  If  the  latter,  frost 
over  when  cold. 

Cost — 50  cents  for  a  2  quart  mold  or 
about  3  lbs  of  cake;  with  icing  5c  more. 

166— Tomato  Soup. 


2  quarts  soup  stock. 

1  cupful  stewed  tomatoes* 

1  small  cupful  of  minced  vegetables. 

6  cloves. 

1  tablespoon  minced  parsley. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Little  flour  for  thickening. 

Tomatoes  stewed  down  after  season- 
ing with  salt,  pepper  and  butter,  are  a 
different  article  from  the  freshly  pre- 
pared and  impart  a  new  richness  to  soup. 

The  soup  stock  may  be  the  liquor  in 
which  a  piece  of  beef  or  mutton  is  boiled 
for  dinner,  with  the  addition  of  other  raw 
scraps  and  pieces,  such  as  the  bones  and 
gristly  ends  of  a  beefsteak.  An  hour 
before  dinner  time  take  out  the  meat 
strain  the  stock  through  a  fine  strainer 
and  into  the  soup  pot.  Cut  piece  of  car- 
rot, turnip  and  onion  into  small  dice 
and  throw  in  and  let  cook  till  done  and 
add  the  cloves  and  cup  of  tomatoes, 
pepper  and  salt,  thickening  and  the  pars- 
ley at  1st. 

It  is  generally  considered  a  reproach 
to  say  the  soup  is  thin.  A  proper  mtdi- 
um  should  be  observed.  A  spoonful  of 
flour  gives  the  smoothness  and  substance 
required  without  destroying  the  clear- 
ness of  the  soup. 


Colt  of  material — stock  4,  tomatoes 
6,  vegetables  and  seasonings  2;  12c  for 
12  plates. 

167— Middle   Cut  of  Salmon— Boiled. 

Take  about  three  pounds  of  the  mid- 
dle out  of  a  small  salmon,  and,  havmg 
scaled  and  cleaned  it,  put  it  on  to  cook 
in  water  that  is  already  boiling  and 
strongly  salted.  The  fish  should  be 
placed  on  the  drainer  or  false  bottom  of 
the  fish  kettle,  but  where  there  is  no 
such  utensil  the  precaution  should  be 
taken  to  wrap  and  pin  it  in  a  buttered 
napkin,  that  it  may  come  out  of  the 
water  unbroken.  Let  it  cook .  very 
gently  at  the  side  of  the  range  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.  Take  it  up,  re- 
move the  skin,  and  place  it  carefully  on 
a  hot  dish.  At  the  moment  that  it  is 
sent  to  table  pour  over  it  some  of  the 
fresh  butter  sauce  of  the  next  recipe,  fill 
the  remaining  space  around  it  in  the  dish 
with  a  pint  of  potato  bouUeites,  and 
send  in  some  more  of  the  sauce  in  a 
sauce-boat. 

168— Scotch    Fish    Sauce. 


Set  8  ounces  of  the  best  butter,  the 
juice  of  one  lemon,  a  pinch  of  cayenne 
and  a  tablesoonful  of  chopped  parsley  in 
a  bowl  in  a  place  warm  enough  to  soften 
the  butter,  but  not  to  melt  it,  and  when 
the  sauce  is  wanted  tor  use  stir  together 
until  creamy. 

Cost  of  material — salmon  1,00,  pota- 
toes 2,  sauce  20;  $1,22  for  12  hotel 
orders  or  10c  per  plate. 

169 — Boiled  Bacon  and  Cabbage. 

(Jut  2  summer  cabbages  in  quarters 
and  cut  out  most  of  the  stem  part.  Let 
lie  in  a  pan  of  cold  water  until  wanted 
to  cook.  Put  on  sauc  ^pan  plenty  large 
enough  with  water  and  salt  and  a  very 
little  baking  soda  in  it — about  the  size 
of  a  bean  for  two  cabbages — when  it 
boils  put  in  the  cabbage  and  let  it  cook 
half  an  hour. 

Shave  the  smoky  outside   off  a  pound 


COOKING  FOR    PROFIT. 


55 


of  bacon  and  boil  the  bacon  in  a  sauce- 
pan by  itself  for  half  hour.  Then  drain 
off  both  cabbage  and  bacon  and  put  them 
both  together  in  one  pot,  pour  in  boiling 
water  just  to  cover,  put  on  a  good-fitting 
lid  and  let  them  slowly  cook  together 
half  hour  longer. 

The  quarters  ot  cabbage,  nice  and 
green  appearing,  should  be  drained  in 
the  spoon  as  they  are  taken  up  without 
destroying  their  shape,  and  placed  in  the 
dish  with  the  bacon  sliced  on  top. 


Cost  of  material — 24c 
3  c  per  plate. 


for  8  orders  or 


170—Roa8t  '6eef. 


To  roast  or  bake  meat  so  that,  how- 
ever small  the  piece  may  be,  it  will 
be  found  full  of  gravy  when  cut, 
it  is  necessary  to  have  the  pan  it  is  baked 
in  hot  before  the  meat  goes  in,  and  al- 
though there  must  be  liquor  in  the  pan 
while  it  is  baking,  that  should  be  added 
after  the  meat  has  become  hot  enough 
outside  for  the  pores  to  be  closed  and 
juices  retained  inside. 

The  choice  roasting  piece  of  beef  is  the 
ribs  between  the  edge  of  the  shoulder- 
blade  and  the  loin — the  short  ribs.  As 
the  butchers  have  to  sell  everything,  as 
a  matter  of  business,  they  take  out  the 
ri  )s  and  coil  the  thin  meat  of  the  breast 
around  the  choice  upper  portion,  and 
make  a  neat  cushion-shaped  roast,  se- 
cured with  twine  and  skewers.  In  the 
places  where  the  highest  prices  are  paid, 
however,  the  breast  portion  has  to  be  c  it 
away  altogether  and  cooked  separately, 
as  in  our  example  of  last  week,  and  the 
choice  upper  portion  or  enire-cote  only  is 
roasted.  This  is  nearly  always  cooked 
rare  done,  and  the  plentiful  graTy  that 
flows  from  it  when  cut  is  caught  in  a  dish 
and  is  the  only  gravy  served  with  it.  As 
to  time,  the  old  rule  is  the  only  ono. 
Allow  a  quarter  of  an  hour  for  each 
pound  of  meat,  and  less,  according  to 
judgment,  when  the  roast  is  of  thin  shape 
or  required  to  be  very  rare  done. 


Common  Roast  of  beef, 
by  slicing  off  the  top. 


To  be  carved 


Choice  roast,  close  trimmed  and  the 
spine  bone  removed.  To  be  carved  by 
cutting  entire  slices  off  the  end. 


Cost  of  roast  beef— common  roast  beef 
at  12c,  loses  one-third  in  trimmings  and 
cooking — 1  pound  18c,  6  plates  to  the 
pound,  3c  per  plate.  Choice  roast  at 
18(v.  same  proportions,  6  plates  to  the 
pound  4Jc  per  plate. 


171— Stuffed  Brisket   of   Veal. 


The  breast  or  brisket  of  veal  is  a  low- 
priced  cut,  at  least  when  the  veal  is 
large,  but  is  most  excellmt  when  cooked 
tender.  There  is  a  large  proportion  of 
gelatinous  bone  and  tendon  good  for 
soups  and  stews.  Take  the  entire 
"plate,"  as  the  butchers  call  it,  and 
take  out  the  bones  by  cutting  down  the 
sides  of  the  ribs  and  along  the  brisket 
edge  with  the  point  of  the  knife,  without 
cutting  down  through.  Then  chop  the 
bone  in  pieces  and  use  them  in  soup,  a* 
directed  in  a  previous  receipe.  Make 
the  bread  stuffing  the  same  as  for  roast 
turkey,  lay  it  on  the  broad ,  boneless 
piece  of  veal — which  may  be  made 
broader  and  evener  by  splitting  the 
breast  edge  part  way — then  roll  up  and 
tie  in  good  shape  with  twine.     Put  the 


56 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZEUES 


rolled  veal  into  a  baking  pan,  with  fat 
skimmed  from  the  soup,  a  little  water 
and  salt  and  baked  with  greased  paper 
on  top  for  a  time,  according  to  the  size 
of  the  veal — probably  an  hour  and  a 
half.  Baste  it  with  a  little  drippings, 
roll  it  over  in  the  glaze  or  gravy  of  the 
pan  when  that  becomes  brown  at  last, 
and  make  pan  gravy  when  the  meat  is 
taken  out  the  usual  way. 


Cost  of  material — 3  lbs  veal  brisket 
at  10c  loseo  one  half  in  boning,  soup 
bones  pay  for  the  dressing — 2  lbs  stuffed 
veal  for  30,  or  8  to  10  orders,  3c  per 
plate. 


172— Ragout  of  Sweetbreads  and 
Mushrooms. 


2  or  8  large  sweetbreads,  or  1  pound. 

^  can  mushrooms. 

2  ounces  butter — size  of  an  q^^, 

1  tablespoon  flour. 

Little  minced  onion  and  ham  for  sea- 
soning. 

Juice  of  1  lemon. 

Cayenne  iind  salt. 

Fried  shapes  of  bread  for  the  border. 

Take  the  sweatbreads  already  cooked 
and  cold,  and  cut  them  in  large  dice. 

Make  the  sauce  for  them  in  a  deep 
saucepan,  lirst  putting  in  half  the  butter, 
a  large  teaspoonful  of  minced  onion  and 
a  very  thin  slice  of  ham,  and  when  these 
are  cooked  enough  for  flavor  without 
browning  put  in  the  flour  and  stir  the 
mixture  over  the  fire  until  it  begins  to 
color.  Then  add  gradually  the  mush- 
room liquor  and  a  cupful  of  the  liquor 
the  sweatbreads  were  boiled  in,  let  it 
boil  up  aod  become  thick.  Add  a  pinch 
of  cayenne.  Next,  melt  the  other  piece 
of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  put  in  the 
mushrooms  and  the  cup  of  sweetbreads 
and  shake  them  about  over  the  fire  until 
they  begin  to  show  color;  tike  it  off, 
squeeze  in  the  juice  of  the  lemon  and 
strain  in  the  thick  sauce  from  the  other 
vessel.  Dish  them  heaped  up  in  the 
center  of  a  flat  platter,  or  of  small  dishes 


for  individual  ordeis,  and  place  a  border 
of  thin  shapes  of  bread  fried  in  lard 
around  the  edge. 

Cost  of  material — sweetbreads  30, 
mushrooms  15,  butter  4,  seasonings  and 
croutons  4;  53c  for  8  orders  or  6  or  7c 
per  plate. 

173~-Macaroniand  Cheese— Bechamel. 


5  ounces  Macaroni — J  package. 

2  ounces  cheese — J  cup. 

2  ounces  butter. 

1^  pmts  milk,  or  water — 3  cups. 

2  eggs.     Salt. 

Parsley  and  flour  thickening. 

BoQ  the  macaroni  by  itself  first,  throw- 
ing it  into  water  that  is  already  boiling 
and  salted.  Let  it  cook  only  20  minutes. 
Then  drain  it  dry  and  put  it  into  a  pan 
or  baking  dish  holding  about  three  pints. 

Chop  the  cheese,  not  very  fine,  and 
mix  it  with  the  macaroni  likewise  the 
butter.  Beat  the  two  eggs  and  the  pint 
of  water  or  milk  together,  pour  them  on 
the  macaroni  and  set  in  the  oven  to 
bake.  While  it  is  getting  hot  boil  a  cup 
of  milk  (the  remaining  half  pint  of  the 
recipe),  and  thicken  it  with  a  rounded 
tablespoonful  of  flour  mixed  up  with  part 
of  it  in  a  cup,  add  salt  and  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  chopped  parsley,  and  when  the 
macaroni  in  the  oven  is  set  so  that  the 
two  cannot  mix,  pour  this  white  cream 
sauce  on  top  of  it,  shut  up  the  oven,  and 
let  it  bake  a  yellow  brown.  This  makes 
a  very  attractive  dish,  as  the  yellow 
cheese  and  custard  boils  up  in  spots 
among  the  white  sauce  and  parsley. 

Cost  of  material — macaroni  5,  cheese 
3,  butter  4,  milk  2,  eggs  4,  seasonings 
1;  19c  for  8  orders,  2^  per  plate. 

174— New  Potatoes,   Maitre   d'Hotel. 

Ail  articles  that  are  a  la  maitre  d'hotel 
have  an  acid  and  some  green  in  the  sauce. 
Take  potatoes  that  are  small  and  just  out 
of  the  ground  and  scrape  them,  keepbg 
them  covered  with  cold  water  until  time 
to  cook.     Put  them  on  in  cold    water, 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT. 


67 


with  salt  ia  it;  boil  with  care,  not  to  let 
them  break  when  done.  Drain  off ;  put 
in  fresh  hot  water,  little  ealt,  lump  of 
butter,  vinegar  to  make  taste  slightly, 
chopped  parsley,  and  when  these  have 
boiled  up  a  spoonful  of  flour  thicken- 
ing. Fhake  about,  without  putting  a 
spoon  in,   until  it  thickens. 

175— Summer  Squash. 

This  vegetable  should  always  be 
steamed,  or  at  any  rate  not  boiled  in 
water,  it  being  an  object  to  get  it  as  dry 
as  possible  so  as  to  allow  the  addition 
of  milk  or  cream  when  it  is  mashed. 
Shave  off  the  outside  thmly  with  a  sharp 
knife;  cut  each  squash  in  six  or  eight 
pieces.  It  depends  upon  the  age  and 
distinctness  of  the  seeds  whether  they 
should  be  cut  out  or  not  if  large  enough 
to  show  prominently  in  the  mashed  equas-h 
take  out  the  entire  core.  Squash  cooks 
in  about  half  an  hour,  and  may  be  al- 
lowed to  simmer  and  dry  out  more  after 
mashing  and  seasoning,  in  a  pan  set 
upon  a  couple  of  bricks. 

176— Steamed  Cherry  Pudding. 


1  cup  pitted  cherries.    , 

2  heaping  cups  flour, 

2  teaspoonfuls  baking  powder. 

•J  cup  water. 

Mix  ihe  powder  in  the  flour  dry,  make 
a  hollow  in  the  middle,  throw  in  a  little 
salt,  pour  in  the  water  and  mix  up  as 
soft  as  it  can  be  handled.  Work  the 
dough  (m  the  table  slightly  by  pressing 
in  flat  with  the  hands  and  doublmg  over. 
Lay  a  bottom  crust  of  it  in  a  tin  pud- 
ding pan  that  holds  a  quart;  spread  half 
the  jjitted  cherries  on  it,  lay  another 
crust  on  them,  then  the  remainder  of  the 
cherries  and  a  third  sheet  of  dough  on 
top.  Set  in  a  steamer  and  steam  from 
30  to  45  minutes  and  serve  while  hot 
and  light,  with  sauce. 


177— Hard  Sauce. 

1  large  cup  powdered  sugar,  ^  pound. 

1  small  cup  tresh  buttei,  J  pound. 

Grated  nutmeg. 

Soften  the  butter  but  not  melt  it. 
Stir  it  and  the  sugar  togetlier  to  a  cream 
as  in  making  cake.  The  more  it  is 
stirred  (if  in  a  bowl  or  dish  and  not  in 
tin)  the  whiter  it  becomes.  Spread  it  on 
a  dish  and  grate  nutmeg  on  top.  Keep 
it  cold  until  wanted. 

Good  for  all  kinds  of  puddings,  and 
can  be  colored  pink  by.  adding  while 
steaming  a  little  red  fruit  ji^ice.   . 

Cost — ^butter  and  sugar  I3c. 

J78.— Sliced  Apple  Pie,  Rich. 

Use  this  way  only  the  best  ripe  cook- 
ing applies.  Pare  and  core  and  slice 
them  thin  across  the  core  hole,  making 
rings.  Fill  paste-lined  pie  pans  about 
two  layers  deep.  Thinly  cover  the  ap- 
ple slices  with  sugar,  and  grate  nutmeg 
over.  Put  in  each  pie,  butter  about  the 
size  of  a  walnut  and  a  large  spoonful  of 
water.  Bake  without  a  top  crust  slowly 
and  dry.  The  apples  become  transpar- 
ent and  half  candied. 


Cost  of  material — cherries  10,  flour  2, 
powder  2;  14 — hard  sauce  13--27c  for 
8  orders  or  3Jc  per  plate. 


Cost  of  material — ^for  2  pies,  puff 
paste  6,  apples  2,  sugar  3,  butter  2; 
count  2  per  plate . 

17&— Lemon  Sherbet^ 

1  quart  water. 

1  pund  sugar. 

2  large  lemons. 

3  whites  of  eggs. 

Grate  the  rinds  of  the  lemons  into  a 
bowl  and  squeeze  in  the  juice.  Make  a 
boiling  syrup  of  the  sugar  and  half  the 
water,  and  pour  it  hot  to  the  lemon  zest 
and  juice  and  let  it  remain  so  till  cold, or 
as  long  as  convenient,  to  draw  ♦he  flavor. 
Then  add  the  rest  of  the  water,  strain 
into  a  freezer,  freeze  as  usual,  and  when 
it  is  pretty  well  frozen,  whip  the  whites 
to  a  froth,  mix  them  in,  beat  up  and 
fireeze  again. 


58 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETIITS 


Cost  of  material — sugar  10,  lemons  4, 
eggs  4,  ice  and  salt  12;  30c  for  3  pints 
or  8  saucers  or  12  glasses,  or  3c  per 
order. 


ISO^Small  Cream  Cakes. 


8  ounces  granulated  sugar — 1  cup. 

oeggs. 

4  ounces  butter,  melted — J  cup. 

^  cup  milk. 

12  ounces  flour — 3  cups. 

1  teahpoonful  baking  powder. 

Beat  the  sugar  and  e^gs  together  a 
minute  or  two,  add  the  melted  butter, 
the  milk,  the  powder  and  the  flour. 
Slightly  grease  some  baking  pans  and 
drop  the  batter  by  tablespoonfulgi  to  form 
little  round  cakes.  Sprinkle  granulated 
sugar  on  top  of  each  one.  Bake  in  a 
slack  oven.  The  cakes  run  out  rather 
thin  and  delicate  and  should  have  plenty 
of  room.  Take  off  with  a  knife  when 
cold  and  place  two  together  with  pastry 
cream  spread  between. 


Cost  of  material — sugar  6  eggs  10, 
butter  8,  milk  1,  flour  2,  powder  1; 
28c — pastry  cream  8 — 36c  for  36  cream 
cakes. 

181— Pastry  Cream. 


1  cup  milk — J  pint. 

2  tablespoons  sugar — 2  ounces. 

1  heaping  tablespoon  flour — 1  ounce. 

1  e/g. 

Butter  size  of  a  walnut. 

Lemon  extract  to  flav,or. 

Boil  the  milk  with  a  little  of  the  su- 
gar iu  it  to  prevent  burning.  Mix  the 
rest  of  the  sugar  and  the  flour  together 
dry,  dredge  them  into  the  boiling  milk, 
beating  all  the  while,  and  let  cook  five 
minutes.  Throw  in  the  butter  and  beat 
the  egg  a  little  and  stir  in.  Put  the  lid 
on  and  let  cook  at  the  back  of  the  range 
about  ten  minutes  longer.  Plavor  when 
nearly  cold. 

Cost — 8  cents. 


Compote  of  Bananas  with  Rice. 
Peel  the  bananas  and  cut  them  in 
two  across.  Make  a  clear  syrup  like 
pudding  sauce,  drop  in  the  bananas 
while  it  is  boiling,  then  remove  from 
the  fire,  as  they  do  not  need  to  cook, 
but.  only  scald.  Stir  a  little  sugar 
and  butter  into  some  cooked  rice. 
Serve  rice  smoothed  over  in  the  dish, 
and  bananas  with  sauce  on  top.  Kum 
is  the  flavoring  mostly  used  with 
bananas;  it  may  be  added  to  the 
sauce.  A  lemon  cut  up  in  it  does  as 
well. 

Banana  Ambrosia. 
Cat  up   bananas  and  oranges   in 
about  equal   proportions  in   a  glass 
bowl,  add  grated  cocoanut,  powdered 


sugar,  rock  candy  and  wine  to  make 
a  syrup,  and  anything  else  such  as 
gum  drops,  almonds  and  crystalized 
fruits  to  make  a  brimming  bowlful 
that  may  be  desired,  and  mix  all 
together.  The  ladies  all  know  how 
to  serve  it. 

Macaroon  Ice  Cream. 
Use  the  rich  kind  of  macaroons, 
known  as  soft  macaroons;  they  are 
made  like  egg  kisses  with  plenty  of 
crushed  almonds  in  to  make  them 
brown.  Allow  a  pound  of  them  to 
three  pints  of  pure  cream.  Sweeten 
the  cream  with  maraschino,  chop  the 
macaroons  fine  and  mix  them  in. 
Freeze ;  put  it  in  a  brick  mould,  pack 
and  freeze  again. 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT. 


59 


HOTEL    DINNER. 


182— Puree  of  Bean  Soup  With  Crusts. 


The  special  Beasomngs  that  make  this 
Boup  'good  are  mnstard,  butter  and 
minced  red  pepper,  to  be  added  at  last. 
A  little  of  tbe  liquor  from  the  boiling 
corned  beef  or  a  knuckle  bone  of  ham 
will  improve  the  flavor. 

2  quarts  of  Boup  stock. 

1  cupful  of  navy  beans. 

1  tableppoon  of  minced  onion. 

Butter  size  of  an  egg  (optional). 

1  teaspionful  of  made  mustard. 

Parsley,  salt,  little  minced  red  pepper. 

Make  the  soup  stock  by  boiling  al- 
most any  kind  of  meat  and  marrow 
bones  in  a  gallon  of  water,  with  the 
usual  soup  bunch  of  various  vegetables 
in  it,  until  the  liquor  is  reduced  nearly 
one-half.  Then  strain  it  and  skim  off 
the  fat. 

The  trouble  with  this  kind  of  soup  of 
the  bean  puree  settling  to  the  bottom  and 
leaving  the  liquid  clear  is  caused  through 
the  beans  being  imperfectly  cooked. 
Steep  them  in  water  over  night  and  put 
a  pinch  of  soda  in  the  water  they  are 
cooked  in,  to  help  dissolve  them,  and 
when  perfectly  soft,  mash  them  through 
a  seive  or  gravy  strainer.  Have  the 
stock  boiling;  pour  it  to  the  puree  grad- 
ually and  stir  to  mix;  throw  in  the 
minced  onion.  Set  on  the  side  of  the 
range  or  on  bricks  on  the  stove  top,  and 
let  simmer  15  or  20  minutes.  Season 
as  already  indicated.  Add  a  spoonful 
of  thickening  along  with  the  mustard. 
Sprinkle  parsely  over  the  surface. 
Serve  with  crusts. 


Cost — stock   8,   beans  3,   seasomngs 
5  crusts  2;  18c  for  2  quarts. 


183— Crusts  for  Soup. 

It  is  a  common  fault  to  make  these 
large  and  unsightly.  When,  in  addition, 
they  are  burned  in  the  oven,  they  spoil 
any  soup,  however  well  made. 


Shave  away  the  dark  crust  from  cold 
rolls  or  slices  of  bread;  cut  the  bread  in- 
to neat,  dice  shapes  of  even  size, 
and  toast  it  in  a  pan  in  the  oven  to  a 
light  brown  color  all  over.  Pour  from 
six  to  twelve  in  each  soup  plate  before, 
the  soup. 

184— Baked  Whitefish. 

Split  the  fish,  after  cleaning,  down 
the  back  and  take  out  the  backbone!. 
Put  some  good,  clear  drippings  to  get 
hot  in  a  baking  pan.  Wipe  the  fish,  dip 
it  in  beaten  q^^^  then  dip  it  in  flour  and 
then  in  egg  again,  lay  it  in  the  pan  of  fat 
and  bake  it  carefully  at  moderate  heat-per 
haps  with  the  oven  door  open — for  about 
twenty  minutes.  Baste  the  exposed 
surface  with  the  fat.  Fisli  looks  ex- 
tremely rich  cooked  this  way,  yellow- 
brown  and  semi-transparent,  if  not  al- 
lowed to  get  too  hot  while  baking;  yet 
the  fat  must  be  hissing  hot  when  the  fish 
is  put  in.  Serve  tomato  sauce  at  the 
side.  Garnish  the  fish  with  fried  par- 
sley. 

Cost  of  material — fish  2  lbs.  25,  2 
eggs  4,  seasonings  and  frying  fat  3, 
sauce  3;  35  cents  tor  8  orders  or  4  to  5c 
per  plate. 

Note — Whitefish  does  not  lose  much 
weight  in  cooking,  and  for  the  above 
method  it  is  best  if  in  thin  and  broad 
pieces — ^it  takes  less  raw  weight  for  a 
given  number  than  most  other  kinds. 

185— Roast  Leg  of  Mutton. 

For  plain  roast  leg  of  mutton  proceed 
in  the  same  manner  as  for  roast  beef. 
Whether  the  mutton  shall  be  rare  done 
or  well  done  must  depend  upon  the 
preferences  of  those  it  is  cooked  for,  but 
in  either  case  the  method  is  the  same 
and  the  natural  gravy  should  flow  from 
a  well-done  leg  ot  mutton  as  weW  as  one 
under-done,  if  not  in  suchlarge  quantity. 
It  is  best  to  make  it  a  rule  to  always  put 
a  little  salt  in  the  pan  the  meat  is  roasted 
m,  and  water  enough  to  cover  the  bottom, 


60 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


and  if  a  made  gravy  is  wanted  some 
Fcraps  and  trimmings  beside.  The  rea- 
son is  that  the  gravy  that  oozes  from 
these  scraps,  and  that  will  escape  from 
the  meat,  too,  to  some  extent,  will  be 
found  at  the  end  of  the  roasting  eticking 
to  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  while  the 
grease  is  above  it  is  clear  it  will  dissolve 
as  soon  as  the  grease  is  poured  off  and 
water  reaches  it  instead,  but  if  there  is 
no  salt  it  h  slow  to  dissolve.  A  spoonful 
of  thickening  will  be  needed  in  it. 

Let  the  leg  of  mutton  have  a  good 
brown  color  on  the  outside,  even  if  not 
done  through.  Turn  it  over  by  lifting 
the  projecting  bone,  and  do  not  pierce 
the  meat  with  a  fork.  From  1  hour  to 
2  will  be  required  to  roast  it,  according 
to  size. 

Cost — per  plate  the  same  as  roast  beef. 


186— Beef  Heart,  Stuffed  and  Baked 


Boil  the  heart  tender  first,  allowing 
about  two  or  three  hours,  and  let  the 
water  be  nearly  all  boiled  away  at  the 
finish,  that  the  remaining  liquor  may  be 
available  for  gravy. 

When  the  heart  has  boiled  long  enough 
cut  out  a  portion  of  the  middle  and  fill 
the  cavity  with  stuffing.  Set  the  heart 
in  a  pan  in  the  oven  with  the  liquor  it 
was  boiled  in,  and  salt  and  pepper  and 
bake  brown.  Cut  the  piece  of  heart 
into  small  pieces,  put  them  to  the  liquor 
remaining  in  the  pan  and  stir  up  with  the 
fragments  of  dressing  and  a  spoonful  of 
thickening,  making  a  savory  thick  sauce 
or  ragout. 

Cosi^— heart  10,  stuffing  5;  15c  for  8 
©r  10  orders,  or  2c  per  plate. 

187— Scrambled   Brains  in  Patties. 


A   good  way   to   serve   brains   where 
there  is  but  a  small  quantity  available. 

1  set  of  brains  or  a  capful. 

2  eggs. 

1  ounce  of  butter — small  egg  size. 
Parsley,  pepper  and  salt. 
Puff  paste  for  8  shells. 


Simmer  the  brains  in  water,  with  salt 
and  a  little  vinegar  in  it,  about  20  min- 
utes. Take  out,  pick  them  over  td  re- 
move the  dark  portions,  put  them  into 
a  frying-pan  with  the  butter,  break  in 
the  eggs,  and  a  little  chopped  parsley,^ 
pepper  and  salt,  and  stir  all  together 
over  the  fire  until  the  eggs  in  it  are  soft 
cooked.  Then  till  patty  shells  made  of 
puff  paste,  put  on  the  lids  and  ornament 
with  a  sprig  of  parsley. 

Scrambled  brains  as  above  also  make 
a  good  breakfast  dish  without  the  pat- 
ties. It  is  common  to  put  the  brains  in 
the  pan  raw,  but  not  a  good  way,  for  it 
is  difficult  to  get  them  cooked  through 
without  making  them  too  dry,  and  almost 
impossible  to  free  them  from  blood  dis* 
colorations. 

The  shells  are  formed  in  the  same 
manner  as  directed  for  cherry  tartlets, 
but  may  be  oval  or  any  other  shape. 

Cost  of  material — brains  10,  eggs  4, 
butter  2,  seasonings  1,  pastry  8;  25c  for 
8  patties  or  3c  per  plat3. 

188— Rice    Croquettes  with    Currant 
Jelly. 

J  cup  rice,  raw, — or  2  cups  cooked. 

1^  cup  water  and  milk. 

Butter  size  of  a  guinea  egg — an  ounce. 

1  tablespoon  sugar. 

2  yolks,  or  1  egg. 
Nutmeg. 

V  Put  the  rice  on  to  boil  in  a  measured 
cupful  of  water,  and  when  it  is  half  done 
add  J  cupful  of  milk.  It  is  an  object  to 
have  the  rice  dry  when  done,  and  yet 
well  cooked.  Keep  the  steam  shut  in 
while  it  is  cooking.  When  soft  eno  igh, 
mash  it  slightly  with  the  back  of  a  spoon, 
work  in  the  other  ingredients  and  a  pinch 
of  salt.  Make  it  in  shapes,  with  flour 
on  the  hands,  like  small  biscuits,  and 
make  it  hollow  iu  the  middle  to  hold  a 
spoonful  of  jelly.  Having  coated  the 
shapes  well  with  flour,  fry  them  in  a 
saucepan  of  hot  lard.  They  will  do 
without  breading  in  egg  and  cracker 
meal.  Put  currant  ielly  in  the  depres- 
sion when  dishing  up. 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT. 


61 


Cost  of  material — rice  2,  milk  1,  but- 
ter 2,  egg  2,  sugar  and  flour  1,  jelly  4; 
12c  for  8  croquettes  with  jelly  or  Ic 
each  with  only  powdered  sugar. 

189— Lobster  Salad. 


Take  the  meat  of  one  large  lobster  and 
cut  it  as  near  as  may  be  in  large  dice 
shapes,  or  at  least  to  uniform  size,  and 
keep  the  reddest  pieces  in  a  dish  sepa- 
rate. Chop  two  heads  of  celery.  Par- 
boil two  or  three  green  leaves  of  celery 
to  make  them  a  deeper  green,  and  chop 
them  with  the  celery  likewise  to  color 
the  whole. 

Spread  a  layer  of  the  celery  on  a  flat 
dish  or  platter,  then  the  lobster  on  that 
with  the  red  pieces  around  the  edge, 
where  they  will  show  among  the  green, 
another  layer  of  chopped  celeiy  on  top, 
level  over  the  top  surface  and  pour  and 
spread  upon  it  some  mayonaise  dressing 
that  is  almost  thin  enough  to  run.  The 
dressing  should  be  suflSciently  seasoned 
to  season  all  the  rest. 


Cost  of  material — lobster  20,  celery 
5,  dressing  9;  34c  for  from  8  to  12  dish- 
es, or  from  3  to  4c  per  plate. 


190— Browned  Sweet  Potatoes. 


usually  about  an  hour — then  pour  away 
the  water  and  add  a  white  sauce  instead, 
and  a  slight  sprinkling  of  minced  pars* 
ley  for  ornament. 

192— Lemon  Cream  Pie,  Rich. 

2  cups  milk — a  pint.. 

4  tablespoons  sugar — 4  ounces. 

2  heaping  tablespoons  flour. 

Butter  size  of  a  walnut. 

4  eggs — or  the  yolks  only. 

1  small  lemon,  or  some  lemon  extract 
and  cream  tartar. 

Mix  the  sugar  and  flour  together  dry 
and  grate  the  rind  of  the  lemon  into 
them;  boil  the  milk  and  stir  the  dry  ar- 
ticles into  it  with  a  wire  e^^  whisk.  Add 
the  butter  and  juice  of  the  lemon  and 
then  the  yolks  of  the  eg2:s  well  beaten, 
but  tako  from  the  fire  before  they  cook. 
Line  pie  pans  with  puff  paste  or  tart 
paste.  Pour  in  the  cream  and  bake  in  a 
slack  oven.  When  done  meringue  over 
as  du*ected  in  other  cases  for  lemon  pies 
and  meringues,  using  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  reserved  for  the  purpose. 

Cost  of  material — milk  4,  sugar  fo» 
pies  and  meringue  6,  butter  and  flour  2, 
eggs  9,  lemon  2,  crusts  6;  28c  for  2 
large  pies,  or  10  portions  or  3c  per  plate. 


If  the  potatoes  are  of  good  size  pare 
them  before  cooking,  split  lengthwise  and 
steam  them  until  done.  Turn  them  into 
a  baking  pan,  sprinkle  with  salt,  moisten 
with  spoonfuls  of  fat  from  the  roast 
meat  pan  and  bake  them  a  handsome 
brown.  Sweet  potatoes  will  not  bake  to 
a  rich  color  and  be  really  good  unless 
they  are  first  steamed  or  boiled  thor- 
oughly done.  Thin  and  stringy  potatoes 
can  be  steamed  first  and  peeled  after- 
ward 


193— Custard  Fritters  Glazed. 


Cost — about  Ic  per  plate. 
191— Stewed  Turnips. 

Pare  turnips  deep  enough  to  remove 
the  rind  that  contains  the  pungent  fla- 
vor.    Boil  in  salted  water  until  tender — 


A  sort  of  sliced  custard,  breaded  and 
fried,  very  rich  and  very  generally  liked, 
made  of 

1  cup  milk. 

2  tablespoons  sugar.* 

1  tablespoon  core  starch. 

1  heaping  tablespoon  flour, 

2  yolks  of  eggs. 
Butter  size  of  a  walnut 
Flavoring.     Pinch  of  salt. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it, 
which  prevents  burning.  ]Mix  the  starch 
and  flour  in  a  cup,  with  a  spoonful  of 
old  milk  extra,  and  some  of  that  on  the 
fire;  pour  it  when  the  railk  boils  and  let 
boil  thick.  Beat  in  the  butter  and  yolka 
and  take  it  off.  Flavor  with  lemon  or 
other  extract,  and  let  it  get  cold   like 


62 


SAN  FBANGISCO  HOTEL  OAZETJES 


mush,  in  a  buttered  pan.  Cut  in  thick 
slices  or  blocks,  xoll  in  beaten  egg  and 
then  in  cracker  meal,  fry  golden  yellow 
in  hot  lard .  Pour  over  the  hot.  slices 
when  they  are  served  a  thick,  transpa- 
rent sauce  that  v/ill  coat  them  without 
ranuing  off.  It  is  made  so  by  a  spoonful 
of  corn  starch  added  to  boiling  syrup  and 

allowed  to  simmer  until  bright  and  clear, 

i 

Cost  of  material — milk  2,  sugar, 
starch  and  flour  3,  butter  2,  eggs  for 
mixing  and  breading  8,  flarvoring  extracL 
1,  cracker  meal  2,  lard  to  fry  4,  sauce 
6;  28c  for  8  orders   or  3  to  4c  per  plate. 

194— Roman  Cream. 


As  it  is  always  easier  to  make  an  arti- 
cle if  it  is  known  what  it  should  be  like 
when  it  is  finished  this  may  described  as 
a  dark  yellow  boiled  custard  stiffened 
with  gelatine  and  whipped  to  a  light 
spongy  condition  while  cooling. 

1  pint  milk. 

5  ounces  sugar. 

1  ounce  gelatine — light  weight. 
Small  piece  stick  cinnamon . 
J  cup  thick  cream. 

6  yolks  eggs. 

■J  cup  curacoa,  or  a  wine  substitute. 

Set  the  milk  over  the  side  of  the  fire, 
with  the  sugar,  cinnamon  and  gelatine  in 
it,  and  beat  often  with  the  wire  egg 
whisk  till  the  gelatine  is  all  dissolved*^ 
which  wdl  be  at  about  the  boiling  point! 
Beat  the  yolks  light,  mix  them  in  like 
making  custard,  allow  a  few  moments 
for  it  lo  thicken  but  not  boil,  then  strain 
into  a  tin  pail  or  a  freezer  and  set  in  ice 
water;  when  nearly  cold  whip  the  cream 
to  froth  and  beat  it  in  and  add  the  cura- 
cora  or  other  flavoring.  Where  there  is 
DO  cream  whatever  to  be  used  for  the 
purpose  after  beating  up  the  gelatine 
cream  quite  light  as  it  cools  whip  the 
whites  of  three  eggs  to  froth  and  m^x  in 
by  beating. 

When  the  Roman  cream  has  become 
cold  enough  in  the  ice  water  to  be  on 
tho  point  of  setting  pour  it  into  small  in- 
dividual molds  if  convenient,    or  it   not 


dish  up  by  spoonsful  like  ice  cream  out 
of  the  vessel  it  is  made  in.  A  spoonful 
of  whipped  cream  poured  around  it  like 
a  sauce  is  an  improvement. 

•Cost  of  material — milk  4,  sugar  3, 
gelatine  16,  cream  2,  eggs  10,  curacoa, 
rum  or  wine  to  flavor  15,  ice  to  set  3; 
53c  for  1  quart  or  16  individual  molds,, 
or  about  4c  per  plate. 

Note — These  creams,  of  which  there 
are  several  kinds  to  be  made,  can  be 
produced  for  one-half  the  above  cost  by 
the  use  of  sheet  gelatine,  which  is  cheap, 
and  the  omission  of  the  expensive  liquor. 

195-  Strawberry    Meringue. 

This  is  sold  extensively  at  the  fine  ba- 
keries under  the  name,  generally,  of 
strawberry  shortcake.  For  the  cake 
take 

8  ounces  granulated  sugar — 1  cup. 

5  eggs. 

4  ounces  butter,  melted — J-  cup. 

■J  cup  of  milk. 

12  ounces  of  flour — 3  cups. 

1  teaspooufill  of  baking  powder. 

Beat  the  sugar  and  eggs  together  a 
minute  or  two,  add  the  melted  butter, 
the  milk,  the  powder  and  the  flour. 
Bake  on  jelly-cake  pans  as  thin  as  it  can 
be  spread,  or,  if  preferred,  on  a  large 
shallow  baking  pan.  The  cake  is  liable 
to  rise  in  the  middle  and  must  be  spread 
on  the  pan  accordingly. 

When  done  cover  the  top  of  the  cake 
with  raw  strawberries  and  spread  a  thick 
covering  of  meringue  on  top  of  them. 
Set  the  cake  in  the  oven  one  minute  to 
bake  a  very  light  color  on  top,  but  the 
meringue  paste  must  not  be  cooked 
through. 

The  meringue  paste  or  frosting  is  made 
by  i  (eating  5  whites  of  eggs  to  a  firm 
froth  and  then  mixing  in  4  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  powdered  sugar. 

Cut  m  squares  to  serve. 

Cost  of  material— <;ake  27,  strawber- 
ries 2  quarts  50,  meringue  10;  87c  for 
16  plates  or  5Jc  per  plate-  -or,  according 
to  size  and  the  price  of  berries. 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT. 


63 


THE  ICE  CREAM  SALOON. 


196— Ice  Cream— Best. 


1  quart  of  good  sweet  cream. 
10  heaping  tablespoons  sugar. 

2  tablespoons  extract  vanilla. 

Put  the  the  sugar  and  flavor  into  the 
cream.  Set  the  pan  or  tin  pail  contain- 
ing it  in  ice  water  and  whip  with  the 
wire  egg-beater  for  about  five  minutes 
till  the  cream  is  half  froth.  Put  it  into 
a  freezer  that  will  hold  twice  as  much, 
pack  with  ice  and  salt  and  freeze,  and 
either  by  rapid  motion  of  a  freezer  hav- 
ing an  inside  beater,  or  by  beating  the 
frozen  cream  with  a  paddle  make  it  fill 
the  freezer  before  leaving  it.  Other  fla- 
voring extracts  can  of  course  be  used  m 
place  of  vanilla. 


Cost  of  material — cream  24,  sugar  6, 
vanilla  4,  twelve  pounds  ice  12,  three 
pounds  salt  3 — 49  cents  for  2  quarts  of 
ice  cream  or  12  plates,  or  4c  per  plate. 


197— Cost   of   Ice  Gream. 


There  are  but  few  things  so  uncertain 
as  this,  so  much  depending  upon  the  price 
of  ice  and  salt  and  so  much  more  upon  the 
method  of  proceeding  to  freeze  it  We 
have  stated  a  supposable  average  with 
cream  nt  90c  per  gallon,  sugar  at  lie 
per  pound  and  ice  and  salt  each  at  Ic 
per  pound.  But  undoubtedly  while  the 
cream  is  generally  considered  the  most 
costly  item  the  real  expense  is  the  freez- 
ing mixture.  Ice  at  the  cheapest  is  about 
50c  per  100  pounds,  yet  it  generally 
rules  higher  and  ice  cream  often  has  to 
be  made  with  ice  at  3  dollars  per  hun- 
dred, and  salt  even  of  the  coarsest,  on 
account  of  the  cost  of  transportation  in 
some  places  runs  up  to  an  equal  figure. 
It  is  necessary  then  to  pay  particular  at- 
tention to  the  freezing  process,  for  one 
person  can  freeze  the  cream  as  well  with 
ten  pounds  of  ice  as  another  may  with 
thirty.  One  will  have  it  done  and  off 
hand  within    half  an  hour  and   another 


take  all  the  forenoon  to  accomplish  the 
same  thing  and  may  have  to  replenish 
the  freezer  three  or  four  times  over. 

When  custards  are  to  be  frozen  or  im- 
itation cream  made  by  enriching  milk 
with  eggs  and  starch  it  is  obviously  the 
best  to  let  the  boiling  mixture  become 
cold  before  .putting  it  into  the  freezer 
StiU  where  ice  is  very  plentiful,  as  in 
winter,  some  time  and  trouble  may  be 
saved  by  not  going  through  that  prepa- 
tion,  but  the  hot  custard  is  strained  di- 
rect into  the  freezer.  In  summer,  how- 
ever much  it  may  be  desired  to  make  the 
custard  cold  beforehand  it  ought  never 
to  be  made  over  night  without  special 
care  to  make  it  thoroughly  cold  at  once, 
for  otherwise  it  is  almost  sure  to  ac- 
quire a  curious  sort  of  fermented  taste, 
and  will  even  in  large  quantities,  throw 
up  tiny  bubbles  of  fermentation  before 
morning,  and  all  the  high-priced  flavor- 
ing extract  that  can  be  added  will  not 
quite  disguise  the  spoiled  taste.  The 
proper  way  to  do  is  to  make  the  custard 
early  in  the  morning,  strain  it  into  a 
freezer  or  tin  pail  and  set  it  in  ice  water 
or  the  cold  brine  that  is  left  in  the  freez- 
ing tub  from  the  previous  day,  and  when 
made  cold  by  occasional  stirring  change 
it  into  the  packed  freezer  it  is  to  be 
frozen  in. 


198— How  to   Freeze  Ice  Cream. 


Pound  the  ice  quite  fine.  It  seems  to 
take  longer  at  the  beginning  but  it  is  by 
far  the  shorter  plan  in  the  end,  for  the 
large  lumps  that  are  crowded  in  to  save 
the  trouble  of  crushing  do  very  little 
good  and  a  person  may  turn  a  freezer 
packed  with  such  large  pieces  for  three 
hours  without  accomplishing  the  freezing. 
The  quickest  freezing  is  done  with  a 
mixture  of  fine  ice  and  snow  and  salt. 

The  large  establishments  that  have 
the  huge  cog-wheeled  freezers  turned 
by  steam  power  have  ice  crushers,  a  good 
deal  like  the  rock  crushers  at  the  mines. 
A  good  and  neat  way  on  the  smallest 
scale  is  to  put  ten  pounds  of  ice  into  a 
burlap   sack  and    pound   it   fine   with  a 


f>4 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  OAZETLES 


wooden  manl  or  even  with  a  hammer  It 
is  soon  learned  by  practice  how  to  do  this 
without  immediately  destroying^  the  sack. 

The  rough  and  ready  way  for  ordinary 
hotel  work  is  to  throw  a  fifty  pound 
block  into  a  large  box  and  pound  it  fine 
with  the  head  of  an  axe. 

Having  your  ice  ready,place  the  freez- 
er with  the  cream  in  it.  Put  around  it 
in  the  freezing  tub  about  four  shovelfuls 
of  ice  and  on  top  of  that  one  spoonful  of 
the  coarsest  kind  of  salt  you  can  get — 
bay  salt  like  that  seen  sometimes  in  the 
barrels  of  salted  mackerel — then  more 
ice  and  salt  till  the  freezing  tub  ia  full, 
and  let  there  be  salt  on  top.  Turn  and 
keep  the  fine  ice  and  the  salt  well  mixed 
with  it  pressed  and  packed  into  close 
contact  with  the  freezer,  and  in  a  short 
time,  running  from  20  to  30  minutes,  the 
freezing  will  be  complete. 

There  is  a  hole  large  enough  to  admit 
a  cork  near  the  top  of  the  freezing  tub. 
That  is  to  let  the  brine  run  off  before  it 
rises  high  enough  to  flow  over  the  lid  of 
the  freezer;  and  another  an  inch  or  two 
above  the  bottom,  which  is  to  let  out  the 
brine  when  it  begins  to  raise  the  ice  from 
the  bottom.  But  the  brine  from  the 
melting  ice  and  salt  should  not  be  kept 
too  low,  but  should  fill  up  all  the  spacei 
around  the  freezer  which  the  ice  is  not 
fine  enough  to  fill  The  brine  in  such  a 
conditiun  is  colder  than  the  ice  itself,  for 
salt  water  will  not  freeze  until  the  tem- 
perature is  a  long  way  below  freezing 
point  of  fresh  water.  This  accounts  for 
the  ice  cream  remaining  at  the  bottom  of 
the  freezer  becoming  so  hard  frozen  after 
an  hour  or  two  in  the  brine.  But  there 
must  always  be  ice  present  for  the  brine 
to  act  upon,  consequently  there  must  not 
be  enough  brine  in  the  freezing  tub  to  lift 
the  ice  from  the  bottom  while  the  freezer 
is  full. 

One  can  never  calculate  the  cost  of  ice 
cream  without  knowing  whether  the  art 
of  freezing  it  expeditiously  with  the  least 
possible  consumption  of  ice  wiU  be  well 
understood. 

In  some  hotels  where  ice  cream  is  made 


every  day  the  brine  thus  made  of  clear 
ice  and  clean  salt  can  be  utilized,  put  in 
barrels  in  which  the  cucumbers  and  man- 
goes as  they  are  gathered  daily  in  the 
garden  may  be  dropped  so  keep  them 
uniil  they  are  eventually  made  into 
pickles. 

199— Corn   Starcft  Ice  Cream. 


4  cups  rich  milk. 
10  tablespoons  sugar. 

2  rounded  tablespooua  com  starch. 

3  eggs. 

1  tablespoon  lemon  extract. 

This  is  the  best  and  closest  imitation 
of  real  cream  and  is  moat  generally  in 
use  wherever  real  cream  cannot  be  ob- 
tained. But  in  order  to  give  it  the  heat' 
ing  up  quality  to  increase  the  bulk  and 
make  it  light  and  rich  eating  the  eggs 
must  be  used  strictly  as  directed. 

Separate  the  eggs  and  keep  the  whites 
cold.  Beat  the  yolks  with  a  basting- 
spoon  of  milk  added  in  a  large  bowl. 
Boil  the  quart  of  milk  with  the  sugar  in 
it.  ]\Iix  the  starch  in  a  cup  with  a  little 
cold  milk  and  stir  it  in,  and  when  it  boils 
again  pour  it  to  the  beaten  yolks  in  the 
bowl.  The  heat  will  cook  them  suffi- 
ciently. Then  strain,  cool,  and  freeze  in 
a  freezer  that  will  bold  twice  as  much. 

When  frozen  nearly  firm  enough  whip 
the  whites  to  a  froth,  add  them  to  the 
ice  cream  and  work  it  either  by  rapid 
turning  or  with  a  wooden  paddle  until  it 
fills  the  freezer. 


Cost  of  material — milk  8,  sugar  6, 
starch  and  flour  3,  eggs  5;  22c — ice  and 
salt  15 — 37c  for  2  quarts  of  ice  cream 
or  from  12  to  16  plates,  according  as 
dished  up,  or  2  to  3c  per  plate. 

Note — It  is  very  unprofitable  to  serve 
ice  cream  in  a  half  frozen  state,  in  which 
condition  it  is  as  heavy  as  water  and 
does  not  go  as  far.  Neither  is  it  good 
or  protitable  when  allowed  to  stand  and 
merely  solidify  or  freeze  itself  without 
beating.  It  will  seem  rich  and  soflb 
however  hard  frozen   if  it  is  beaten   up 


COOKING  FOZ    FROFFT, 


65 


although  it  may  bo  made  only  of  milk. 
It  pays  therefore  to  have  a  good  freez- 
er and  sufficient  ice  to  complete  the 
freezing. 

200— Frozen  Custard— Rich. 


4  cups  rich  milk. 

12  tablespoons  sugar. 

12  yolks  of  eggs. 

Vanilla  or  other  flavoring. 

Boil  the  milk  with  half  the  sugar  iu  it— 
which  prevents  burning.  Beat  the  yolks 
in  a  large  bowl  with  the  rest  of  the  su- 
gar iu  and  a  half  of  cup  of  milk  to  make 
them  come  up  frothing.  Pour  the  boil- 
ing milk  to  them,  then  set  on  the  fire  for 
not  more  than  a  minute,  as  if  too  much 
cooked  the  custard  will  not  come  up 
light  and  rich  in  the  freezer. 

Strain,  flavor  and  freeze. 

Cost  of  material — milk  8,  sugar  7, 
flavor  2,  yolks  15;  32 — ice  and  salt  15 — 
47  cents  for  something  less  than  2  quarts. 
About  the  same  cost  as  pure  cream,  or 
4c  per  plate. 

201— New  York  Ice  Cream. 


Known  as  Delmonico*s  ice  cream,  but 
most  people  are  averse  to  printing  it  so  in 
every  hotel  bill  of  faro.  Nearly  the 
same  as  the  foregoing  with  gelatine  ad- 
ded to  produce  extreme  lightness. 

3  cups  good  milk. 

1  cup  sweet  cream. 

10  yolks  of  eggs. 

A  vanilla  bean. 

10  tablespoons  sugar. 

J  package  gelatine  or  less  than  -J 
ounce. 

Set  the  milk  on  to  boil  with  the  sugar, 
gelatine  and  vanilla  bean  (or  part  of  one) 
in  it  The  kettle  should  be  set  at  the 
side  of  the  range  where  the  milk  will 
heat  up  gradually  giving  the  gelatine 
time  to  dissolve,  with  frequent  stirring 
from  tlie  bottom-  The  sheet  gelatine  can 
be  used  but  is  liable  to  curdle  the  milk 
if  allowed  to  boil  in  it,  which  the  pack- 
age kind  does  not. 


Add  a  little  milk  to  the  yolks  in  a 
large  bowl  to  make  them  capable  of  be- 
ing beaten  up  light.  Whip  them  light 
as  sponge  cake.  Pour  the  boiling  milk 
to  them  and  strain  into  the  freezer. 
Wipe  th«  vanilla  bean  and  put  away  to 
be  used  the  same  way  again.  When  the 
custard  has  become  cold  and  begun  to 
freeze  whip  the  cup  of  cream  to  froth, 
stir  it  m  and  finish  the  freezing  as 
usual,  working  the  ice  cream  until  it  is 
twice  its  original  bulk. 

Cost  of  material — milk  and  cream  12, 
sugar  6,  gelatine  5,  vanilla  5,  yolks  12; 
40  cents — ice  and  salt  15 — 55c  for  over 
2  quarts  or,  according,  to  the  way  of 
dishing  up,  from  12  to  16  plates  or  4c 
per  plat& 

Note — ^The  genteel  way  of  serving  ice 
creams  in  small  individual  shapes  has  in 
it  also  the  purpose  of  serving  as  a  meas- 
ure of  quantity.  Where  there  is  an 
abundance  of  good  things  served  and  the 
ice  cream  is  only  one  among  many  it  may 
be  quite  suflScient  to  make  twenty-four 
dishes  of  two  quarts  of  ice  cream,  while 
on  the  other  hand  in  a  saloon  the  size  of 
the  dish  is  an  object  with  the  customer. 
There  are  ice  eream  ladles  made  that 
form  the  cream  in  conical  and  dome 
shapes  to  go  in  the  saucers,  and  these 
can  be  had  of  different  measures  to  suit 
the  particular  case. 


202— Corn 


-Starch   Ice 
out  Eggs. 


Cream  With- 


The  former  corn-starch  cream  has  the 
cream  color;  this  is  pure  white  and  while 
it  answers  to  make  at  times  when  neither 
eggs  nor  cream  can  be  obtained  it  is  also 
valuable  for  fancy  ices  where  different  col- 
ors are  required, and  besides  serving  for  the 
perfectly  white  it  takes  a  handsomer  red 
color  from  strawberry  syrup  or  other  col- 
oring than  a  yellow  cream  or  custard 
will.       ■  . 

4  cups  milk. 

12  tablespoons  sugar. 

^  ounce  butter. 

2  rounded  tablespoons  com  starch. 


C>G 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETLES 


Fiavorinp^. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it. 
Mix  the  starch  in  a  cup  with  a  little  cold 
milk  and  stir  it  in  while  the  milk  is  boil- 
ing. Take  it  from  the  tire  and  throw  in 
the  small  lump  of  b  itter  and  beat  till  it 
is  dissolved.  The  butter  is  not  so  much 
for  flavor  as  to  make  the  starch  cream 
white,  opaque  and  smooth  and  not  semi- 
transparent  like  milk  as  it  would  be 
without  that  addition. 

Strain,  cool,  and  flavor  and  freeze  as 
usual. 

This  kind  will  not  rise  and  increase  in 
bulk  much  in  the  freezer  as  it  is,  but  if 
2  whites  of  eggs  can  be  had  whip  them 
light  and  stir  in  when  the  cream  is  nearly 
frozen  and  it  will  make  a  difierence  in 
the  quantity  provided  rapid  turning  or 
beating  is  resorted  to. 


Cost  of  material — milk  8,  sugar  7, 
butter  1,  starch  and  flavoring  2; — 18 
cents — ice  and  salt  15 — 33  cents  for 
about  3  pints  or  12  plates,  or  3c  per 
plate. 


Note. — As  a  rule  the  richer  a  cream 
may  be  the  more  ice  and  salt  it  takes  to 
freeze  it,  and  the  less  sugar  in  the 
cream  the  sooner  it  will  become  solid. 
The  plain  cream  of  the  foregoing  receipt 
will  freeze  in  half  the  time  that  may  be 
required  for  a  rich  yellow  custard. 


203— Chocolate  Ice  Cream. 


It  is  never  very  good  when  made  with 
any  kind  of  custard  or  imitation  cream 
and  ought  to  be  made  only  when  real 
cream  is  to  be  had . 

4  cups  cream. 

1  ounce  common  chocolate. 

1  heaping  cup  sugar. 

1  tablespoon  vanilla. 

Chocolate  cream  is  generally  too 
strongly  flavored  for  the  majority.  The 
imported  sweet  kinds  are  made  of  half 
sugar  and  more  of  such  chocolate  can  of 
course  be  used, but  the  common  unsweet- 
'.ned  is    the  kind   generally  furnished. 


The  ounces  are  marked  on  ihe  cakes. 
Otherwise  use  a  half  cup  dry  grated. 

Boil  a  little  milk  with  some  sugar  in 
it,  put  in  the  grated  chocolate  and  beat 
up  over  the  fire  until  it  is  melted  then 
strain  it  into  the  freezer,  put  in  the  cream 
and  sugar,  freeze  and  beat  up  well  to 
make  it  a  rich  bright  color. 

The  chocolate  can  also  be  mixed  in  the 
cream  by  only  melting  it  in  a  saucepan 
set  in  a  rather  warm  place,  with  nothing 
added,  but  it  does  not  do  to  pour  it  into 
the  cold  cream  without  previously  dilut- 
ing it  with  a  little  thoroughly  beaten  in 

Cost — Same  as  best  ico  cream. 


204 — Ordinary    Frozen  Custard. 

1  quart  of  milk. 

3  eggs. 

1  small  cup  sugar, 

^  a  peach  tree  leaf  for  flavor. 

Boil  half  the  milk  with  the  peach  leaf 
and  the  sugar  in  it;  beat  the  eggs  in  a 
bowl,  pour  some  boiling  milk  to  them, 
set  on  the  fire  again  and  in  one  minute, 
or  as  soon  as  it  shows  signs  of  boiling  up 
again  take  it  off  and  add  the  cold  milk  to 
stop  the  cooking.  Strain  into  the  freezer, 
flavor  and  freeze. 


Note — There  is  a  point  in  cooking 
custards  when  they  are  at  the  richest  and 
that  is  exactly  at  the  boiling  point.  The 
custard  is  then  creamy  and  as  thick  as  it 
will  ever  be.  A  few  seconds  more  of  the 
fire  may  spoil  it  or  at  least  make  it  thin 
and  full  of  grains  of  curd.  This  is  a 
great  point  to  know  in  making  all  such 
sauces  and  soups  as  are  thickened  with 
eggs  as  well  as  sweet  custards.  A  pint 
or  two  may  thicken  almost  as  soon  as  it 
touches  the  fire  but  a  gallon  may  require 
several  minutes . 

The  ordinary  custard  made  as  above 
being  less  trouble  to  prepare  than  the  one 
thickened  in  part  with  starch  is  oftenest 
madn  where  no  particular  interest  is  felt 
in  the  quality  of  the  cooking,  and  earns 
abuse  often  bestowed  upon  hotel  ice 
cream,  nevertheless  if  half  cream  o^  even 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT, 


67 


a  quarter  can  be  had  and  the  custard 
is  carefully  cooked  it  may  prove  to  be 
equal  to  that  made  with  all  pare  cream. 

205— Bisque  Ice  ureams. 

Ice  creams  with  a  proportion  of  the 
pulp  of  pounded  fruit  or  nuts  added  are 
termed  bisques. 

206— Bisque  of  Pineapple  ice  Cream. 

1  can  pineapple  or  f  pound. 

2  cups  sugar. 
4  cups  cream. 

Chop  the  pineapple  small  and  put  it 
in  a  J3right  pan  or  kettle  with  the  sugar 
and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  juice  or  water  to 
dissolve  the  sugar  to  syrup.  Simmer  at 
the  side  of  the  range  a  short  time. 

Whip  the  cream  till  it  is  halt  froth, 
then  freeze  it  first  by  itself,  because  the 
pineanpie  added  before  freexing  has  a 
tendency  to  curdle  it.  Pound  the  pine- 
apple and  syrup  through  a  colander,  mix 
it  with  the  partly  frozen  cream,  and 
freeze  again. 

It  can  and  ought  to  be  managed  to 
have  the  pineapple  in  syrup  prepared 
beforehand  to  be  cold.  In  making  these 
bisquos  it  is  not  best  to  pound  the  fruit 
perfectly  fine  but  the  small  pieces  about 
like  grains  of  wheat  should  be  percepti- 
ble and  show  that  the  creams  are  mixed 
with  fruits  and  not  merely  flavored. 

Cost  of  material — pineapple  20,  sugar 
10,  cream  24;  64  cents — ice  and  salt 
20 — 74  cents  for  2  quarts  or  about  6c 
per  plate. 

207— Bisque  of  Preserved  Ginger. 

•J  pound  of  either  preserved  or  can 
died  ginger. 

1  cup  sugar. 

Juice  of  1  lemon. 

4  cups  cream. 

Cu*  the  candied  ginger  into  very 
small  pieces.  Make  a  hot  syrup  of  the 
sugar  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  water  and 
squeeze  the  lemon  into  it,  then  put  in  the 
ginger  and  let  it  soften  and   impart  the 


flavor  to  the  syrup.  Put  the  cream  and 
ginger  and  syrup  all  together,  freeze  and 
beat  up. 

Cost  of  material — ginger  30,  sugar 
6,  lemon  2,  cream  24;  62  cents — ice  and 
salt  20 — 82c  for  2  quarts  or  12  plates  or 
7c  per  plate. 

208— Italian  Bisque  Ice  Cream. 

1  cup  sugar. 

2  cups  milk. 

2  cups  cream. 

8  or  10  lady-fingers  (pairs). 

3  yolks  of  eggs. 
J  cup  madeira. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it, 
crnmble  in  the  lady  fingers,  add  the 
yolks  and  stir  over  the  fire  a  mimite. 
Put  it  into  the  freezer  with  the  wine  and 
cream,  freeze,  and  heat  up. 

Cost  of  material — milk  and  cream 
16,  sugar  6,  cakes  5,  eggs  4,  wine  10* 
41  cents — ice  and  salt  20— 61c  for  2 
quarts  or  12  plates  or  5c  per  plate. 

209— Bisque  of   Almonds. 

J  pound  almonds. 

4  cups  cream. 

1  heaping  cup  sugan 

Scald  the  almonds  and  take  off  the 
skins.  Pound  them  a  few  at  a  time  in  a 
mortar  with  a  little  sugar  and  teaspoon* 
ful  of  water.  .  They  need  not  be  a  per- 
fectly smooth  paste,  for  the  reason  stated 
under  the  head  of  bisque  of  pineapple, 
but  when  all  are  pounded  mix  them  with 
the  cream  and  sugar  and  pass  it  through 
a  coarse  strainer  into  the  freezer.  Freeze 
and  beat  up  as  usual.  This  is  perfectly 
white. 

Cost  of  material — almonds  30,.  cream 
24,  sugar  8;  62  cents — ^ice  and  salt  15 — 
77c  for  2  quarts  or  12  plates  or  6  or  7c 
per  plate. 

210  -  Brown  Bisque  of  Hickory  Nuts. 

J  pound  of  hickory  nut  kernels. 

1  heaping  cup  sugar 

4  cups  cream. 

Pick  over  the  kernels   to  free   them 


68 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


from  fragments  of  shell,  and  pound  them 
like  almonds  in  a  mortar  with  a  little 
sugar  and  a  few  drops  of  water  added. 
Only  a  few  can  be  eflfectually  pounded  at 
a  time.  They  should  be  like  meal,  to 
go  through  a  coarse  strainer.  In  order 
to  make  the  cream  about  the  color  ot 
light  coffee  and  cream  and  to  give  it  a 
good  flavor  put  two  tablespoons  sugar  in 
a  very  small  saucepan  without  water 
and  melt  it  over  the  fire  and  let  it  bum 
to  the  color  of  molasses,  then  add  a  little 
water  let  it  boil  up  and  dissolve.  Put 
the  cream  into  the  freezer,  strain  in  the 
caramel  and  pounded  nuts  and  freeze. 

Cost — 6  or  7c  per  plate 

211— Fruit  Ice  Creams. 


These  have  the  fruit  mixed  with  the 
cream  either  whole  or  in  large  pieces. 

There  is  one  rule  to  be  observed  all 
through,  and  that  is  to  add  the  fruit  late, 
when  the  cream  is  already  frozen  and  it 
is  nearly  time  to  serve  it,  for  the  reason 
that  fresh  fruit  freezes  easily  and  some 
kinds  become  as  hard  ;is  rocks  and  taste- 
lees  and  useless.  The  exceptions  are 
the  very  sweet  fruits  which  will  not 
freeze  solid  at  all,  and  tho^e  made  very 
Bweet  like  pmeapple  stewed  in  syrup. 

212— White  Cherry  ice  Cream. 

4  cups  cream. 
2  cups  sugar. 

5  cups  California  white  wax  cherrie 
J  cup  water. 

Slake  a  boiling  syrup  of  the  sugar  and 
water,  drop  in  the  cherries  and  let  them 
simmer  in  it  about  15  minutes,  without 
stirring  or  breaking.  Then  strain  the 
flavored  syrup  into  the  freezer  and  set 
the  fruit  on  ice,  to  be  mixed  in  at  last. 
Add  the  quart  of  cream  to  the  syrup  in 
the  freezer,  freeze  and  beat  up  well,  then 
stir  m  the  cherries  and  pack  down  with 
more  ice  and  salt 


Cost  of  material — cream  24,  cherries 
24,  sugar  10;  58  cents— ice  and  salt 
20 — 68c  for  2  quarts — about  6c  per  plate 


213— Red  Cherry  Ice  Cream. 

4  cups  cream. 
2  cups  sugar. 

5  cups  red  cherries. 
J  cup  water. 

UTse  only  the  light  red  cherries  for  this 
purpose,  for  the  dark  kinds  make  an  un- 
pleasant color. 

Boil  the  water  and  sugar  together  and 
drop  the  cherries  in.  Let  simmer  at  the 
side  of  the  range  a  {qw  minutes  without 
stirring  or  breaking  them.  Then  strain 
the  syrup  into  the  freezer  and  set  the 
fruit  on  ice  to  be  mixed  in  at  last.  Add 
the  quart  of  cream  to  the  syrup  in  the 
freezer,  freeze  and  beat  up  well, then  add 
the  cherries  and  cover  down  till  wanted. 


214— Pineapple    Fruit  Ice  Cream. 

1  can  pineapple,  or  a  pound. 

2  cups  sugar. 
4  cups  cream. 
^  cup  water 

Cut  the  pineapple  in  small  dice.  Make 
a  boiling  syrup  of  the  sugar  and  water, 
stew  the  pineapple  in  it,  then  strain  the 
flavored  syrup  into  the  freezer  and  set 
the  fruit  on  ice  to  become  cold.  Add  the 
cream  to  the  syrup,  freeze  and  beat  up 
and  stir  in  the  prepared   pinapple  at  last. 

Cost — pineapple  20,  sugar  10,  cream 
24,  ice  and  salt  20;  74  cents  or  7c  per 
plate. 

215— White  Grape    Ice  Cream. 

Make  the  same  as  directed  for  white 
cherries. 


216- Strawberry    Fruit  Ice  Cream. 

1  quart  strawberries — red,  ripe  and 
sweet. 

2  cups  sugar. 
4  cups  cream. 
•J  cup  water. 

The  fruit  need  not  be  cooked  as  in  the 
case  of  the  preceding  kinds,  cover  the 
strawberries  with  the  sugar  and  let  then 
remain  some  time  to  form  a  thick  red  syrup. 


COOKING  FOn   PROFIT, 


69 


Pick  out  half  of  them  to  be  added  after 
the  freezing,  and  rub  the  remaining  half 
with  their  synip  through  a  strainer  into 
the  freezer.  Add  the  cream,  freeze  and 
beat  up  and  at  last  stir  in  the  whole 
strawberries. 


Cost — About  the  same  as  the  other 
fruit  ice  creams,  varying  with  the  price 
of  fresh  fruit. 


217- -Peach    Fruit  Ice  Cream. 


4  cups  of  peeled  and  cat  peaches. 

4  cups  cream. 

2  cups  sugar. 

Peach  extract  to  flavor. 

Make  a  peach-flavored  ice  cream. 
Mix  some  of  the  sugar  with  the  cut 
peaches  and  mix  them  in  after  the  cream 
is  frozen. 


218—106    Cream  With  Strawberries. 


Make  any  kind  of  plain  ice  cream  or 
frozen  custard  according  to  directions  al- 
ready given  and  dish  up  a  spoonful  of 
berries  on  top  in  the  saucer.  Ice  cream 
with  rasberries  or  cut  peaches  the  same 
way. 

219— Frozen  Puddings. 

Sometimes  called  ice  puddings.  Some 
are  as  cheap  as  the  commonest  ice  cream, 
others  are  quite  expensive .  They  make 
a  welcome  variation  either  to  serve  alone 
like  ice  cream  or  for  two  kinds  together. 

220— Frozen  Cocoanut   Pudding. 

4  cups  milk. 

1  cup  sugar. 

4  yolks  of  eggs. 

\  pound  of  grated  cocoanut. 

Make  the  custard  as  usual  and  stir  in 
the  cocoanut  while  it  is  still  warm  after 
straining.  Freeze  and  beat  as  lisuaL  A 
little  lemon  or  orange  flavoring  can  be 
added. 

The  ordinary  ice  cream  or  starch  cus- 
tard can  be  used  the  same  way  as  well. 


Cost  of  material — 25c  per  quart  or  8 
plates  or  3c  per  plate. 

221— Frozen  Tapioca  Pudding. 

3  cups  milk. 

6  tablespoons  sugar —  5  oz, 

2  tablespoons  pearl  tapioca. 

Butter  size  of  a  walnut. 

2  eggs. 

^  cup  cream  to  whip  in  at  last. 

Flavoring. 

The  pearl  Tapioca  is  the  most  suitable. 
If  the  large  grained  sort  is  used  crush  it 
ou  the  table  with  the  rolling-pin  and  then 
sift  away  the  dust 

Steep  the  tapioca  2  hours  in  a  cup  of 
milk  cold,  but  set  in  a  warm  place.  Boil 
the  rest  of  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it, 
then  add  the  steeped  tapioca,  cook  for 
15  minutes.  Stir  in  the  butter,  then  the 
eggs,  and  take  the  custard  immediately 
off  the  fire,  cool,  flavor  with  vanilla  or 
lemon,  and  freeze  like  ice  cream,  and 
when  nearly  finished  add  the  \  cup  of 
cream  whipped  to  a  froth,  and  beat  weU. 

Cost  of  material — milk  6,  sugar  3, 
tapioca  and  flavoring  3,  eggs  4,  butter 
and  cream  4;  20  cents — ice  and  salt  15 — 
35c  for  3  pints  or  8  to  12  plates,  or  3  to 
4c  per  plate, 

222— Frozen  Rice   Pudding. 


3  cups  milk. 

2  tablespoons  rice. 

6  tablespoons  sugar. 

6  yolks  of  eggs, 

J  cup  of  cream. 

Piece  of  stick  cinnamon. 

Wash  the  rice;  put  it  in  the  milk  and 
the  sugar  likewise,  and  an  inch  length 
of  stick  of  cinnamon,  and  let  simmer 
slowly  at  the  side  of  the  range  until  the 
grains  are  tender — about  ^  hour.  Beat 
the  yolks  with  a  spoonful  of  milk,  pour 
some  of  the  boiling  rice-milk  to  them, 
then  set  all  over  the  fire  again  about  a 
minute  to  nearly  boil.  Take  out  the 
cinnamon.  Cool,  freeze,  add  the  cream 
whipped,  and  finish  freezing. 


70 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  OAZETIES 


Cost — same  as  tapioca  pudding  pre- 
ceding. 

Note. — These  as  well  as  all  other 
custards  and  puddings  are  richar  both  in 
taste  and  color  when  made  with  the  yolks 
of  eggs  than  with  whole  eggs,  and  when 
there  is  no  cream  to  be  had  the  whites 
whipped  to  froth  may  be  added  instead 
just  before  the  freezing  is  finished »  This 
addition  not  only  increases  the  volume 
but  gives  the  frozen  custard  a  soft  and 
creamy  taste. 

223— Frozen  Sago  Pudding. 

3  cups  milk. 

6  tablespoons  sugar. 

2  tablespoons  best  white  sago. 

Butter  size  of  a  walnut. 

2  eggs — or  3  yolks. 

J  cup  cream  to  whip  in. 

Flavoring. 

Put  on  the  milk  with  the  sugar  and 
Bago  in  it,  stir  from  the  bottom  once  or 
twice  lest  the  sago  stick  at  the  first  heat- 
ing, and  let  simmer  until  the  grains  are 
transparent — about  20  minutes.  Then 
add  the  beaten  eggs  and  the  butter,  cool, 
flavor  and  freeze  and  beat  in  the  whipped 
cream. 


CobT — same  as  tapioca  and  rice  pud- 
dings. 

Note. — The  reason  for  using  butter  in 
these  preparations  of  starch,  tapiaco  and 
sago  is  to  whiten  them  Without  it  they 
have  more  or  less  of  a  bluish,  semi-trans- 
parent appeajance  that  is  not  rich,  but 
the  addition  of  butter  well  beaten  in 
makes  the  fluid  portion  white  as  milk 
and  leaves  the  grains  distinct  to  show  up 
the  compound  for  what  it  is.  This  is 
especially  useful  to  know  when  eggs  are 
dear  and  scarce  and  large  quantities  of 
these  puddings  are  needed  for  hotel  use. 

224— Frozen  Apple  Pudding. 

Freeze  the  following  compote  of  apples 
in  one  freezer  and  either  of  the  three  or 
four  kinds  or  frozen  pudding  of  the  fore- 


going receipts  in  anno^her,  and  dish  up 
a  half  portion  in  the  saucer  with  the 
spoonful  of  apple  ice  in  the  centre. 

2  or  3  ripe,  mellow  apples. 

6  tablespoons  sugar. 

IJ  cups  water. 

J  a  lemon. 

Put  on  the  sugar  and  ^  cup  water  to 
boil,  and  pare  and  cut  the  apples  in  small 
pieces  of  even  size.  Put  into  the  boiling 
syrup  a  piece  of  the  lemon  rind  shaved 
off  thin  and  more  or  less  of  the  lemon 
juice,  and  then  stew  the  pieces  of  apple 
in  it,  taking  them  out  before  they  get  too 
well  done.  Set  the  pieces  on  ice.  Add 
the  remaining  cup  of  water  to  the  syrup, 
strain  and  freeze — it  makes  a  whitish 
sort  of  ice — and  add  the  apples  to  it  at 
last  and  cover  down  with  more  ice  and 
salt  to  finish  the  freezing. 


Cost — About  the  csame  per  quart  as 
the  rice  pudding. 


225— Frozen  Nesseirode  Pudding. 

Glace  Nesseirode  or  iced  pudding.  A 
frozen  custard  made  of  pounded  chest- 
nuts, with  fruit  and  flavorings: 

1  pound  of  large  chestnuts — about  40- 

1  pint  of  rich  boiled  custard. 

1  cup  sweet  cream. 

2  ounces  citron. 

2  ounces  sultana  raisins. 

2  ounces  stewed  pineapple. 

J  cupful  of  maraschino. 

1  teaspoon  vanilla  extract 

Pinch  of  salt  in  the  chestnut  pulp. 

Slit  the  shells  of  the  chestnuts,  boil 
them  half  an  hour,  peel  clean,  and  pound 
the  nuts  to  a  paste,  and  rub  it  through  a 
coarse  sieve,  moistening  with  cream. 
Then  mix  it  with  the  boiled  custard. 
Freeze  this  mixture,  and  when  firm  whip 
the  cup  of  cream,  and  stir  it  in  and  freeze 
again.  Then  add  the  citron  cut  in 
shreds,  the  stewed  or  candied  pineapple, 
likewise  the  raisins,  maraschino,  and 
vanilla  extract.  Beat  up  and  freeze 
again,  and  either  serve  in  ice  cream 
plates  out  of  the   freezer,   or  pack   the 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT. 


71 


cream  in  a  mold,  and  when  well  frozen 
Bend  to  table  whole,  turned  out  of  the 
mold  on  to  a  folded  napkin  on  a  dish. 

Cost  of  material— chestnuts  20,  cus- 
tard (2  cups  milk,  4  yolks,  4  tablespoons 
sugar)  13,  cream  6,  raisins  3,  citron  5, 
pineapple  3,  maraschino  20,  vanilla,  2; 
72  cents — ^ice  and  salt  23— 95c  for  1^ 
quarts. 


Note. — The  foregoing  makes  about 
enough  to  fill  one  of  those  brick  molds 
that  have  a  large  and  deep  stamped  fruit 
pattern  in  the  lid  and  when  frozen  firm 
it  can  be  sliced  into  from  12  to  16  por- 
tions. If  dished  up  by  spoonPulsout  of 
the  freezer  and  made  a  little  less  heavy 
with  fruit  it  is  practicable  to  make  2 
quarts  of  the  same  material.  When 
chestnuts  are  not  convenient  some  of  the 
large  cafes  use  the  ready  prepared 
pounded  almonds  or  walnuts  that  may 
be  bought  by  the  can  at  the  confection- 
ers* supply  stores,  and  various  additions 
or  substitutions  of  green  candied  fruits 
are  employed  to  make  a  handsome  ap- 
pearing compound  without  changing  its 
general  character. 

226— Tutti  Fruttl. 


2  cups  milk. 

6  tablespoons  sugar, 

4  yolks  eggs. 

J  cup  curacoa. 

•^  cup  thick  cream. 

1  pound  of  French  candied  fruits  of 
different  colors— or  else  use  a  mixture  o^ 
cut  figs,  sultana  raisms,  dates  and  greea 
candied  citron  and  blanched  almonds. 

Put  a  spoonful  of  sugar  in  the  small- 
est saucepan  and  bum  it  to  caramel — 
not  too  dark — and  add  a  little  water  to 
dissolve  it.  Make  a  yellow  boiled  cus- 
tard of  the  milk,  sugar  and  yolks,  color 
it  with  the  caramel,  add  the  curacoa  for 
flavor,  strain,  add  the  whipped  cream 
when  cold  and  freeze  and  beat  up.  Cut 
the  fmits  to  the  size  of  cranberries,  mix 
them  in  and  cover  down  the  freezer  with 
a  fresh   relay  of  ice   and  salt     May  be 


served  by  spoonfuls  out  of  the  freezer  or 
packed  in  a  brick  mold,  turned  out  and 
sliced. 


Cost  of  material — The  same  as  Nes- 
sebode,  or  about  60c  per  quart,  depend- 
ing somewhat  upon  the  cost  of  the  can- 
died fruit  and  curacoa  or  their  substi- 
tutesL 


227— Neapolitan  Ice  Cream  or 
Pocchi. 


Occhi 


Make  3  colors  of  ice  cream  or  2  creams 
and  1  water  ice  m  different  freezers,  and 
when  they  are  frozen  medium  hard  place 
them  in  layers  as  even  as  possible  in  a 
brick  shaped  neapolitan  mould.  Let  the 
first  layer,  about  an  inch  deep  be  of 
rich  yellow  frozen  custard  made  with 
yolks  of  eggs  and  milk  as  already  else- 
where directed;  having  smoothed  that 
over  spread  another  layer  an  inch  deep 
of  pink  strawberry  ice  cream  or  red 
cherry  water  ice  or  other  red  kind,  and 
on  that  spread  another  layer  of  white  ice 
cream,  either  pure  cream  frozen  or  a  com 
starch  cream  made  without  yolks  of 
6ggs,  or  else  a  white  orange  or  lemon 
ice.  Three  colors  of  cream  are  to  be 
chosen,  however,  in  preference  to  any 
water  ice  when  they  can  be  had,  be- 
cause they  freeze  of  even  density.  A 
chocolate  or  caramel  cream  will  answer 
instead  of  red. 


228— Neapolitan  Molds    and  How  ta 
Manage  Them. 

Properly  made  molds  have  a  bottom 
lid  as  well  as  top.  They  can  be  bought 
at  the  furnishing  stores.  The  large  es- 
tablishments, however,  find  it  less  trouble 
to  use  plain  tin  boxes  almost  identical  in 
size  and  shape  with  the  common  wooden 
cigar  boxes.  They  have  a  tight  fitting 
top  lid,  and  before  being  filled  are  lined 
with  maniUa  paper,  by  means  of  which 
the  brick  of  ice  cream  nfrer  being  fiimly 
frozen  can  easily  be  withdrawn  It  is 
an  advantage  to  use  a  paper  lining  in 
whichever  kind  of  mold  may  be  em- 
ployed.    Where    ice  is  plentiful,    when 


72 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


the  freezers  have  been  emptied  into  the 
molds  these  may  be  pkced  in  the  same 
freezers,  well  covered  down  and  allowed 
to  remain  thei«  two  or  three  hoars  to 
become  firm.  If  there  is  the  least  risk 
of'  the  inside  not  being  cold  enough, 
however,  immerse  the  molds  in  a  tub  of 
pounded  ice  and  salt  by  themselves.  Be- 
fore doing  so  the  joints  of  the  lids  should 
be  closed,  if  not  made  tight  enough  with 
paper,  by  brushing  with  melted  butter 
to  fill  up  the  spaces  where  salt  might 
get  in. 

When  the  molds  have  remained  in  the 
freezing  mixture  2  or  3  hours  wash  off  the 
outside,  take  out  the  shape  of  ci-eam  and 
wrap  it  in  dry  manilla  paper  and  put  it 
back  in  the  freezer,  well  packed,  to  re- 
main until  it  is  to  be  sliced  and  served. 

All  kinds  of  ice  creams  and  frozen 
puddings  in  single  colros  are  thus  frozen 
in  bricks  and  served  in  slices.  When  to 
be  served  at  a  party  table  whole  the 
stamped  ornamental  lid  may  have  the 
fruit  or  flower  form  filled  with  a  colored 
ice  that  will  show  in  relief  upon  the  plain 
form.  These  forms  are  served  upon  a 
folded  napkin  in  a  dish,  in  some  cases, 
but  are  better  placed  in  a  silver  dish 
having  a  drainer  bottom  on  the  plan  of  a 
butter  dish. 

Among  the  labor-saving  expedients  to 
secure  the  ornamental  tri-colored  brick  of 
cream  without  making  different  kinds 
the  principal  is  the  employment  of  the 
prepired  vegetable  colors,  to  be  obtained 
of  the  manufacturers  of  flavoring  extracts, 
by  which  one  large  freezer  of  ice  cream 
may  be  made  to  take  as  many  different 
Lues  as  may  be  desired. 

Cost  of  molded  creams — This  is  quite 
out  of  proportion  to  the  cost  of  ingredi- 
ents. The  extra  time  and  labor  and 
consumption  of  ice  probably  will  be  found 
to  double  the  expense. 

229-fSherbet8 

Sherbets  are  water  ices  \sith  either 
calf  'sfoot  jelly  or  gelatine  or  white  of 
eggs,  or  dissolved  gum  added  to  make 
them  smooth  and  capable  of  being  beaten 


to  a  light  and  foamy  condition.  We  give 
examplef  only  of  the  use  of  white  of  eggs, 
it  being  the  simplest  and  most  generally 
available,  A  remainder  of  table  jelly 
of  the  kind  usuuUy  made  for  hotel  des- 
sert can  be  used  in  the  same  way. 

230— Lemon  Sherbet, 

2  lemons. 

\\  cups  sugar — 12  oz. 

3  cups  water. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 

Grate  the  rinds  of  the  lemons  into  a 
bowl  and  squeeze  in  the  juice.  Make  a 
boiling  syrup  of  the  sugar  and  half  the 
water  and  pour  it  hot  to  the  lemon  zest 
and  juice  and  let  remain  so  till  cold. 
Then  add  the  rest  of  the  water,  strain 
the  lemonade  into  a  freezer,  freeze  as 
usual,  and  at  last  add  the  whites  whip- 
ped to  a  firm  froth,  beat  and  freeze  again 
The  scalding  draws  the  flavor  of  the 
lemon;  it  should  never,  however,  be 
boiled  and  fewer  lemons  should  be  used 
when  they  are  large.  The  sherbet  is 
perfectly  white. 

Cost — lemons  5,  sugar  7,  whites  of 
eggs  3;  15c — ice  and  salt  15 — 30  cents 
for  3  pints  (if  thoroughly  frozen  and 
beaten)  or  12  plates;  or  2  or  3  cents 
each. 

231— Orange   Sherbet. 

2  or  3  oranges — according  to  size. 

3  cups  water. 

1  large  cup  sugar. 

1  lemon — juice  only. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 

Grate  the  yellow  rind  of  one  or  two  of 
the  oranges  into  a  bowl,  squeeze  in  the 
juice  of  all,  without  the  seeds,  and  the 
juice  of  half  the  lemon.  ^lake  a  boiling 
syrup  of  the  sugar  and  half  the  water 
and  pour  it  to  the  grated  lind  in  the 
bowl.  Let  remain  until  cold.  Strain  it 
into  the  freezer,  add  the  rest  of  the 
water,  freeze,  add  the  whipped  whites, 
beat  up  and  finish  freezing. 

This  sherbet  is  cream  white  tinged 
with  the  orange  zest  and  juice. 

Cost — same  as  lemon  sherbet. 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT. 


73 


232— White  Cherry  Sherbet. 


4  cups  white  cherries  without  stems. 

IJ  cups  sugar. 

2  cupa  water. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 

Mash  the  fruit  raw  and  thoroughly  so 
as  to  break  the  stones,  and  strain  the 
juice  through  a  fine  strainer  into  the  freez- 
er. Boil  the  cherry  pulp  with  some  of 
the  sugar  and  water  to  extract  the  flavor 
from  the  kernels,  and  ma?h  that  also 
through  the  strainer,  add  the  other  pint 
of  water  and  the  sugar  and  freeze.  Then 
add  the  whipped  whites  and  finish  freez- 
ing. This  sherbet  is  not  distinguishable 
from  cream  as  long  as  it  remains  frozen. 
It  is  a  gotid  plan  to  drop  in  a  lew  whole 
cherries  that  have  been  simmered  in 
syrup,  to  show  what  kind  of  ice  it  is. 
Canned  cherries  are  good  enough. 


Cost  of  material — cherries  25,  sugar 
7,  white  of  eggs  3;  35  cents — ice  and 
salt  15 — 40c  for  3  pints,  or  3  to  4c  per 
plate  or  glass. 


233— Grape  Sherbet. 

Only  the  kinds  of  grapes  that  yield  a 
colorless  juice  can  be  used  this  way. 
The  others  turn  to  a  very  bad  color. 

5  cups  sweet  muscat  grapes. 

1  cup  angelica  or  other  sweet  wine. 

1  cup  water. 

1  cup  sugar. 

1  lemon — juice  only. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 

St«w  the  grapes  with  the  sugar  and 
water,  then  rub  them  through  a  strainer 
into  the  freezer,  with  the  lemon  juice 
and  syrup,  and  add  the  wine  and  freeze. 
When  nearly  finished  put  in  the  whip- 
ped whites  beat  up  and  finish  the  freez- 
ing Some  ripe  grapes  of  any  kind,  not 
cooked,  may  be  dropped  into  this  sher- 
bet as  suggested  for  white  cherries. 

Cost — According  to  locality  and  cost 
of  grapes  and  wine — average  5c  per 
plate. 


234 — Pineapple  Sherbet. 

1  can  of  pineapple— or  i  of  a  pineapple. 

1  cup  sugar. 

2  cups  water. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 

Make  a  boiling  syrup  of  the  sugar, 
the  pineapple  juice  and  part  of  the  water. 
Chop  the  fruit,  simmer  it  a  few  minutes 
m  the  syrup  then  mash  through  a  strainer 
into  the  freezer,  using  the  remainder  of 
the  water  to  help  it  through.  Freeze, 
add  the  whites  whipped  and  beat  up  and 
finish  freezing. 

Note. — The  canned  pineapple  is  gen- 
erally riper  and  sweeter  than  the  fresh 
fruit  that  is  sent  to  Northern  markets. 
When  the  latter  is  used  it  shoulvl  be  cut 
up,  have  hot  syrup  poured  over  and  al- 
lowed to  steep  till  cold.  Two  cans  con- 
tain about  1^  pounds  of  pineapple.  The 
juice  of  a  lemon  is  sometimes  added  to  a 
pineapple  ice  when  the  fruit  is  very  sweet. 

Cost  of  material — about  the  same  as 
cherry  sherbet,  or  25  to  30c  per  quart  or 
4c  per  plate. 

235— Peach  Sherbet. 

3  cups  of  sliced  mellow  peaches. 

1  large  cup  sugar. 

2  cups  water. 

The  kernels  of  half  the  peaches,  or  ^ 
a  peach  leaf. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 

Make  boiling  syrup  of  the  sugar  and 
water  stew  the  peach  kernels  and  put  in 
it  a  few  minuies  to  extract  the  flavor, 
pass  through  a  strainer  into  the  freezer, 
freeze,  add  the  whites  and  freeze  again. 

Cost—  Same  as  lemon  sherbet,  2  to 
3c  per  plate. 

236— Water  Ices. 

The  same  as  the  sherbets  with  the 
white  of  eggs  or  gelatine  left  out,  except 
that  as  Ji  rule  they  cannot  be  well  made 
with  cooked  or  scalded  fruit  as  sherbets 
can,  but  should  have  the  expressed  juice 
of  the  raw  fruit  mixed  with  water  and 
sugar.     Some  kinds  of  fruit,   especially 


74 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  OAZETUrS 


cherries,  giapes  and  peaches  have  the 
gumrny  property  that  causes  them  to  be- 
come light  and  white  in  the  freezer  if 
beaten  much,  precisely  as  if  eggs  or  jel- 
ly had  been  added;  consequently  when 
water  ices  are  desired  to  serve  almost  as 
beverages  at  evening  parties  they  are 
better  frozen  in  an  old  fashioned  freezer, 
Bcrapea  down  from  the  sides  with  a 
palette  knife  and  not  beaten  too  much. 


237- -Strawberry  Water  Ice. 

1  quart  strawberries. 

2  cups  sugar. 

3  cups  water. 

Cover  the  strawberries  with  the  sugar 
and  let  them  remain  some  time  to  form  a 
thick  red  syrup.  Pick  out  a  few  of  the 
berries  to  be  mixed  in  the  ice  at  last. 
Rub  the  rest  through  a  strainer  into  the 
freezer  with  the  syrup  and  add  the  water. 
Freeze  without  much  beating  if  a  crimson 
ice  is  wanted,  and  add  coloring  if  neces- 
sary. Throw  the  reserved  berries  on 
top  of  the  strawberry  ice  in  the  freezer 
and  mix  them  in  when  the  ice  is  to  be 
served.  • 


Cost  of  material — strawberries  25, 
sugar  10,  ice  and  salt  15;  50c  for  3  pints 
or  from  8  to  16  plates  or  glasses,  or  3  or 
4  cents  each. 


238~Lemon  Water  Ice. 


The  same  as  lemon  sherbet  without 
the  white  of  eggs.  A  good  strong  lem- 
onade made  in  the  common  way  answers 
as  well  to  freeze;  the  difference  is  that  it 
takes  three  times  as  many  lemons  as  by 
the  other  method  of  scalding  the  grated 
rind  to  draw  the  flavor. 


239— Raspberry  Water  Ice. 

3  cups  raspberriea 

1-J  cups  sugar. 

2  cupp  water. 

Mash  the  berries  and  ougar  together 
and  rub  them  through  a  strainer  into  the 
freezer  using  the  water  to  help  when  the 


pulp  is    dry.      Freeze    without    much 
beating. 

Cost — same  as  strawberry   water  ice. 
Three  pints. 

240— Pineapple  Water  Ice. 


Scald  the  the  sliced  fruit  in  syrup  as 
in  making  pineapple  sherbet  and  force  a 
portion  of  it  through  a  strainer  that  will 
not  let  the  fibrous  part  pass  through.  It 
is  the  same  as  the  sherbet  without  the 
white  of  eggs,  but  will  not  make  so  much 
in  bulk. 


241— Orange  Water   Ice. 


Same  as  orange  sherbet  without  the 
white  of  eggs. 

242— Cherry  Water  Ice. 

4  cups  sweet  red  or  black  cherries. 

2  cups  water. 

IJ  cups  sugar. 

Mash  the  fruit  raw  and  thoroughly  so 
as  to  break  the  stones,  and  strain  the 
juice  through  a  fine  strainer  into  the 
freezer.  Boil  the  cherry  pulp  with  some 
of  the  sugar  and  water  to  extract  the 
flavor  from  the  kernels,  and  mash  that 
also  through  the  strainer,  add  the  other 
pint  of  water  and  the  sugir  and  freeze. 
Beat  the  ice  only  enough  to  make  it  even 
and  smooth. 


Cost  of  material — cherries  20,  sugar 
8,  ice  and  salt  15;  43  cents  for  3  pints  or 
12  glasses  or  3  to  4c  each. 


243— Peach  Water  Ice. 


Is  best  made  with  soft,  raw  yellow 
peaches.  Use  the  same  proportions  as 
for  sherbet;  rub  the  pulp  through  a 
strainer  with  most  of  the  sugar  mtished 
with  it,  and  make  a  syrup  of  the  rest 
and  stew  the  peach  kernels  or  half  a 
peach  leaf  in  it  for  more  flavor.  Same  as 
peach  sherbet  without  the  white  of  eggs. 


COOKINO  FOR   PROFIT. 


75 


244— Grape  Water  Ice. 

Adj  kind  or  color  of  grapes  can  be 
made  into  water  ices  if  not  cooked.  Can- 
ned grapes  will  not  da  Proceed  as  for 
raspberry   water  ice.     Use  no  white  of 


245— Frozen  unch  es. 


These  are  sherbets  and  water  ices 
with  spiritoua  liquors  added  and  are  of 
two  classei?.  They  are  (according  to  the 
French  usage)  Roman  punches  when  they 
are  beaten  up  with  meringue  or  white  of 
eggs  like  the  sherbets  ot  the  preceding 
receipts,  and  plain  iced  punches  when 
not  so  whitened  and  are  in  a  semi-trans- 
parent condition. 

Some  of  these  punches  cannot  be  fro- 
Kon  quite  solid  and  must  be  served  in 
glasses  in  a  half  fluid  condition  as  bev- 
erages, on  account  of  the  spirit  and  sugar 
they  contain  and  all  of  thsm  take  more 
ice  and  salt  to  freeze  them  than  any  mix- 
ture without  liquors.  The  stronger  they 
are  made  the  harder  they  are  to  freeze. 

246 — Roman  Punch. 


1  pint  water — 2  cups. 
10  ounces  sugar — 1^  cups, 
1  lemon — juice  and  rind. 

1  orange — -juice  only. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 

Few  spoonfuls  of  rum  or  chablis. 

Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  hot; 
grate  the  rind  of  the  lemon — the  yellow 
part  only — into  a  bowl,  and  squeeze  in 
the  juice  and  that  of  the  orange  and  pour 
the  hot  syrup  to  them.  liCt  stand  awhile, 
then  strain  into  a  freezer.  Freeze,  and 
when  nearly  finished  whip  the  two  whites 
and  stir  them  in  and  beat  up  well.  Add 
the  rum,  or  the  mixture  of  rum  and  wine, 
or  the  wine  substitute  for  rum,  at  last. 
Serve  in  glasses. 


Cost  of  material-  sugar  7,  lemon  and 
orange  4,  white  of  eggs  3,  rum  ^  cupful 
6;  20  cents — ice  and  salt  15 — 35c  fori 
quart  or  8  to  12  glasses  according  to 
size. 


Note — Those  who  aim  at  making 
these  punches  as  smooth  and  delicate  as 
possible  will  put  the  2  whites  in  a  bowl 
and  whip  them  in  a  cold  place  to  a  firm 
froth,  then  add  two  tablespoons  cf  pow- 
dered sugar  and  beat  them  together 
about  one  minute,  making  a  smooth  cake 
icing,  and  stir  it  into  the  punch  when  it 
is  first  frozen  instead  of  the  whipped 
whites  without  sugar.  The  difference  is 
not  very  marked  and  those  who  are  in 
baste  will  not  care  to  stop  to  make  the 
icing,  still  others  insist  upon  its  supe- 
riority. 

247~Klrsch  Punch  Rom^ine. 

2  cups  water. 
1^  cups  sagar. 

1  lemon — juice  only. 

^  cup  kirschwasset — small. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 

Mix  the  punch  materials  together  cold, 
strain  into  the  freezer.  When  nearly 
frozen  whip  the  2  whites  firm,  mix  in 
and  freeze  again . 

Cost  ef  material — suf  ar  7,  lemon  2, 
eggs  3,  kirschwasser  20;  32  cents — ice 
and  salt  18 — 50c  for  1  quart  or  4  to  6c 
per  glass  according  to  size. 

248-^Maraschlno  Punch— Romaine. 

2  cups  water 

1  cup  sugar. 

i  a  lemon — ^juice  only. 
^  an  orange — juice  only. 
\  cup  of  maraschino — large. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 

Mix  all,  except  the  whites,  together 
cold,  strain  into  a  freezer,  freeze  as  usu- 
al, whip  the  whites  firm  and  stir  in  and 
beat  up  well  and  freeze  again.  It  is  a 
snow-white  ice,  rich  and  tenacious  like 
pulled  candy,  The  fruit  juices  are  not 
essential,  but  an  improvement. 


Cost  of  material — sugar  5,  lemon  and 
orange  4,  eggs  3,  maraschino  25,  37 
cents — ice  andsalt  15 — 52c  for  1  quart, 
or  6c  each  person. 


76 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETJITS 


249— Strawberry  Punch. 

3  caps  ripe  red  strawberries. 

1^  cups  sugar. 

ij  cups  water. 

^  cnp  angelica  or  any  sweet  wine. 

Cover  the  strawberries  with  the  sugar 
and  let  remain  some  time  to  form  a  thick 
red  syrup.  Kub  them  through  a  strainer 
into  the  freezer  with  the  syrup  and  add 
the  water  and  wine  and  freeze  without 
any  extra  beating. 

Cost  of  material — strawberries  18, 
sugar  7,  wine  12;  37  cents — ice  and  salt 
18-— 55c  for  something  over  a  quart,  or 
about  5c  per  glass. 


Note — In  counting  ihe  cost  observe 
that  the  addition  of  white  of  eggs  or 
meringue  increases  the  bulk  of  the  mate- 
rial iu  tho  freezer  according  to  the  de- 
gree to  which  it  is  beaten  and  a  punch 
a  la  Homaine  heaped  in  a  glass  like  ice 
cream  may  cost  less  each  person  than  a 
punch  plam  frozen  of  much  less  volume. 


250— Raspberry  Punch. 


Make  the  same  as  strawberry  punch. 
Stronger  wines  can  be  used  in  it. 


251— Regent's  Punch. 

cup  gin. 
a  lemon. 

J  cup  sugar. 

J  cup  maraschino — or  half  as  much 
kirchwasser. 

1  cup  water. 

1  bottle  eoda  water  (aerated  lemon 
mineral  water  or  **soda  pop  ") 

Grate  the  rind  of  ^  a  lemon  into  a 
bowl,  pour  in  a  spoonful  of  gin  and  rub 
with  the  back  of  a  spoon  to  extract  the 
flavor.  Add  the  lemon  juice  and  rest  of 
the  ingredients  except  the  boda;  strain 
into  the  freezer  and  freeze  as  firm  as  the 
spirit  in  it  will  allow,  add  the  soda — 
which  should  be  ice  cold — and  finish  the 
freezing. 


Cost  of  material — gm  12,  lemon  2, 
sugar  3,  maraschino  20,  soda  10;  47 
cents — ice  and  salt  18 — 65c  for  1  quarter 
6  to  8c  per  glass. 

252— Victoria  Punch. 


2  oranges. 

4  lemons. 

2  cups  sugar. 

2  cups  water. 

^  cup  angelica  or  other  sweet  wine. 

J  cup  rum. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 

Grate  the  rinds  of  2  of  the  lemons  into 
a  bowl,  add  the  rum  and  rob  with  the 
back  of  a  spoon  to  draw  the  flavor. 
Squeeze  in  the  juice  of  all  the  fruit,  add 
the  other  ingredients  and  freeze >  Then 
whip  the  whites,  stir  in  and  beat  up. 


Cost  of  material — oranges  and  lem- 
ons 14,  sugar  10,  wine  10,  rum  6,  eggs 
3;  43  cents — ice  and  salt  17 — 60c  for 
over  a  quart  about  6c  per  glass. 


253— Imperial  Punch, 


1  cup  sugar. 

1^  cups  water. 

■J  can  pineapple,  or  6  oz  fresh. 

1  orange. 

1  lemon. 

J  a  nutmeg. 

3  whites  of  eggs. 

2  tablespoons  each  of  maraschino,  no- 
yeau,  kirschwasser  and  curacoa. 

J  cup  of  champagne. 

Make  a  hot  syrup  of  the  sugar  and 
water  with  the  nutmeg  broken  in  it. 
Grate  the  rinds  of  both  lemons  and  one 
orange  into  a  bowl  Grate  or  mash  the 
pineapple  and  put  in  and  pour  the  hot 
syrup  upon  them.  Squeeze  in  the  juice  of 
the  fruit  and  let  stand  till  cold.  Strain 
and  freeze,  then  put  iu  the  liquors  and 
after  freezing  again  add  the  whipped 
whites. 


Cost  of   material — aboat  a 
quart. 


dollar  a 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT. 


7t 


254 — Cardinal  Punch. 

2  cups  port  or  other  red  wine. 

1  cup  water. 

1  cup  sugar. 

1  orange. 

12  cloves. 

1  cup  wine  jelly  (calfs  foot  or  gelatine). 

Bake  the  orange  light  brown  on  a  plate 
in  the  ovea  Make  a  boiling  syrup  of 
the  sugar  and  water  with  the  cloves  in 
it,  drop  the  baked  orange  into  it,  add 
the  wine  and  let  remain  until  cold.  Then 
cut  the  orange  and  press  it  for  the  juice 
and  strain  the  punch  into  the  freezer. 
Add  the  jelly  and  freeze.  If  in  the  sea- 
son add  red  strawberry  or  raspberry 
juice  to  heighten  the  color. 

Cost  of  material — wine  40,  sugar  5, 
orange  3,  jelly  15,  63  cents — ice  and 
salt  20 — 83c  for  over  a  quart  or  about  7c 
a  glass. 

255— Champagne  Punch. 

1  cup  sugar. 
^  cup  water. 

1  bottle  champagne. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 

Dissolve  the  sugar  to  syrup  with  the 
water,  pour  it  and  the  champagne  into 
the  freezer.  When  frozen  add  the  whites 
whipped  up  with  sugar  until  like  cake 
icing,  and  finish  the  freezing.  Serve  in 
glaspes. 

Cost — The  price  of  the  champagne, 
and  freezing  mixture  added — probably 
25c  a  glass. 

256~Fine   Bakery   Lunch 

There  are  some  large  establishments  in 
the  cities  doing  an  immense  business  in 
serving  lunches  of  breads,  rolls,  coflfee- 
cakes,  pies,  p-istries  and  cakes  with  cof- 
fee, tea,and  milk  and  no  meats  beyond  a 
small  reserve  of  ham  sandwiches.  The 
lunches  of  this  description  are  cheap  but 
where  the  goods  are  fresh  made  and  of 
tlic  iiighest  possible  excellence  and  the 
fiurrouuuings    clean    the    extraordinary 


numbers  of  customers  that  avail  them- 
selves of  it  make  the  business  one  of 
great  importance.  Bread  in  every  form 
is  very  cheap  diet  and  cheapest  of  all 
when  raised  with  yeast.  The  dough 
once  made,  a  very  considerable  number 
of  different  articles  such  as  raised  cakes 
can  be  made  from  it  easily.  The  first 
requisite  is  good  yeast  and  as  the  com- 
pressed artide  is  not  everywiiere  to  be 
obtained,  it  often  becomes  necessary  for 
the  baker  to  make  his  own,  both  stock 
and  ferment. 


257— Stock  Yeast, 

Boil  a  handful  of  hops  in  a  quart  of 
water  about  30  minutes,  strain  the  liquor 
and  put  it  into  a  quart  bottle.  Let  the 
bottle  be  only  two-thirds  full.  When 
cool  put  in  a  handful  of  sugar  and  a 
handful  of  ground  malt  Cork  and  tie 
it  down.  Set  the  bottle  in  a  moderately 
warm  comer  and  let  remain  about  4^ 
hours.  Then  boil  h  pound  of  hops  in  a 
gallon  of  water.  Put  4  cups  flour  in  a 
pan,  pour  the  boiling  hop-water  through 
a  strainer  on  to  it  and  mash  to  a  sort  of 
thin  paste.  When  cool  add  2  lieaping 
cups  of  ground  malt  and  1  of  sugar  then 
draw  the  cork  of  the  bottle,  mix  in  the 
contents  set  the  stock  away  in  a  jar  to 
ferment  and  in  two  days  it  will  be  ready 
for  use.  Strain  it  into  a  jug  and  keep  it 
cold.  It  will  keep  good  to  start  ferment 
with  for  a  month  or  more. 


258— Common  Yeast  or  Ferment. 

Stock  yeast  is  not  used  to  make  bread 
with  but  to  start  ferment  or  common 
yeasc  such  as  the  bakers  sell  in  most 
towns. 

Take  about  24  potatoes, 

2  pounds  of  flour. 

4  ounces  sugar. 

1  quart  stock  yeast* 

Wash  the  potatoes  thoroughly,  usin^ 
a  brush  for  the  purpose,  and  boil  them  in 
a  ketJe  of  water.  When  done  pour  off 
what  remains  of  the  dark  water  and  fill 
up  again  with  fresh.  When  that  boils 
torn  out  potatoes  and  boiling  water  on  to 


78 


SAN  FBANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


the  flour  in  a  large  pan  and  mash  all  to  a 
smooth  paste.  Throw  i:i  the  sugar 
Thin  down  with  ice  water  till  hke  thick 
cream.  Set  the  large  colander  over  your 
6-pallon  stone  jar  (just  fresh  scalded  out) 
and  strain  the  yeast  into  it.  When  it  is 
no  more  than  about  milk  warm  mix  the 
stock  or  other  yeast  to  start  it.  Let 
stand  in  a  moderately  warm  place,  un- 
disturbed, for  from  12  to  24  hours— ac- 
cording to  weather,  activity,  and  need 
of  using.  It  will  then  be  ready  for  use, 
and  should  be  kept  cold. 

Cost  of  material — potatoes  4,  flour  6, 
sugar  3,  stock  yeast  or  yeast  cakes  to 
start  with  10;  23  cents  for  4  gallons. 

Note — ^The  dry  hop  yeast  cakes  an- 
swer very  well  to  start  the  ferment  above 
described  if  used  plentifully — a  whole 
package  for  3  or  4  gallons — but  are  not 
equal  to  stock  in  making  articles  good 
and  profitable  to  sell.  Yeast  also  is  sold 
and  is  a  source  of  profit  where  the  de 
mand  is  such  that  not  much  is  left  to 
throw  away,  for  ferment  will  not  keep 
long.  The  most  of  the  cost  is  in  the 
labor  of  making  it 

259— CommorTBread  Dough. 

As  a  rule  one-fourth  yeast  to  three- 
fourths  water. 

The  good  potato  yeast  with  no  germs 
of  sourness  in  it,  such  aa  we  have  already 
directed  how  to  make,  does  no  harm  in 
still  larger  proportions  when  the  weather 
is  cold  or  time  of  mixing  late.  But 
the  whitest  bread  is  made  when  the 
dough  can  have  long  time  to  rise,  not 
hurried  up. 

1  pint  yeast. 

3  pints  warm  water, 

1  heaping  tablespoon  salt. 

8  pounds  flour. 

Makes  8  loaves  of  convenient  size. 

Cost  of  raateinal — There  are  12  pounds 
w^-ight  of  material  which  make  about  10 
pounds  of  bread  after  baking  and  the 
cost  per  pound  is  according^  to  the  price 
of  flour,  with  flour  at  3J  this  small  qnan- 
tity  costs  3c  per  pound  loaf. 


260— Cream  Rolls. 

For  about  60  split  rolls. 

3  large  cups  milk. 
1  large  cup  yeast. 

1  ounce  salt.    (A  heaping  tablespoon.) 

2  ounces  sugar. 

2  ounces  lard  or  butter. 

4  pounds  flour — 16  cups. 

Strain  the  yeast  and  the  water  into  a 
pan  and  mix  in  half  the  flour.  Beat  the 
batter  thus  made  thoroughly.  Scrape 
down  the  sides  of  the  pan.  Pour  a  spoonful 
of  melted  lard  on  top  and  spread  it  with 
the  back  of  the  fingers.  This  is  to 
prevent  a  crust  from  forming  on  top. 
Cover  with  a  cloth  and  set  the  sponge  in 
a  moderately  warm  place  to  rise  4  or  5 
hours. 

This  having  been  commenced  at  about 
8  in  the  morning  beat  it  again  about  one, 
add  the  salt  and  make  up  stiff  dough 
with  the  rest  of  the  flour.  Knead  the 
dough  on  the  table,  alternately  drawing 
it  up  in  round  shape  and  pressing  the 
pulled-over  edges  into  the  middle  and 
then  pressing  it  out  to  a  flat  sheet,  fold- 
ing over  and  pressing  out  again. 

Brush  the  clean  scraped  pan  over  with 
the  least  touch  of  melted  lard  or  butter — 
which  prevents  sticking  and  waste  of 
dough — place  the  dough  in  and  brush 
that  over,  too.  Where  economy  reigns 
the  strictest  a  little  warm  water  in  a  cup, 
and  teaspoonful  of  lard  melted  in  it  will  do 
for  this  brushing  over  and  insures  the 
truest  saving  and  smoothest  bread.  Let 
the  dough  rise  till  4. 

At  about  4  o'clock  spread  the  dough 
on  the  table  by  pressing  out  with  the 
knuckles  till  it  is  a  thin  uneven  sheet. 
Double  it  over  on  itself  and  press  the 
two  edges  together  all  around  first.  This 
imprisons  air  in  the  knuckle  holes  in  large 
masses.  Then  pound  and  press  the 
dough  with  the  fists  till  it  has  become  a 
thin  sheet  again,  with  the  inclosed  air 
distributed  in  bubbles  all  through  it. 
Fold  over  and  repeat  this  process  several 
times.  Then  roll  it  up.  Let  it  stand  a 
few  minutes  before  making  into  rolls. 
Persons   in   practice  find   it   quickest  to 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT. 


79 


pull  oflf  pieces  of  dough  of  right  size  and 
mould  them  up  instantly.  Others  cut  off 
strips  of  dough,  roll  them  in  extended 
lengths  and  cut  these  up  in  roll  sizes. 
Mould  them  up  round  with  no  flour  on 
the  board  and  only  a  dust  on  the  hands, 
and  place  them  in  regular  rows  on  the 
table — the  smoothest  side  down.  Take  a 
little  rolling  pin — it  looks  like  a  piece  of 
new  broom  handle — and  roll  a  depression 
across  the  middle  of  each.  Brush  these 
over  with  the  least  possible  melted  lard 
or  butter,  using  a  tin-bound  varnish 
brush  for  that  purpose.  Double  the  rolls, 
the  two  buttered  sides  together,  and 
place  them  in  the  pans  diagon  «lly,  with 
plentv  of  room  so  they  will  not  touch. 
Brush  over  the  tops  of  the  rolls  in  the 
pans  with  the  least  possible  melted  lard 
again  and  set  them  to  rise  about  an 
hour — less  or  more  according  to  the  tem- 
perature Bake  in  a  hot  oven,  about  10 
minutes.  Brush  over  with  dear  water 
when  done. 


Cost  of  material — flour  14,  yeast  3, 
milk  6,  sugar  2,  lard  6;  31  cents  for  4  or 
5  dozen,  according  to  size  or  6c  per  doz- 
en. They  sell  2  or  3  for  5c  with  a  chip 
of  butter  added — about  h  oz,  1  cent. 


261— Graham  Rolls. 


This  is  for  fifty  rolls  of  small  size. 

2  pounds  graham,  not  sifted. 

1  pound  white  flour. 

1 J  pints  warm  water. 

j^  pint  yeast 

J  cup  reboiled  molasses — small 

1  teaspoonful  salt. 

Set  sponge  with  the  graham  at  9  or 
10  as  directed  for  cream  rolls,  at  about 
1  add  all  the  rest  of  the  ingredients  and 
make  it  stiff  dough.  Let  rise  till  4. 
Then  work  the  dough  by  spreading  it 
out  on  the  table,  with  the  knuckles, 
folding  over  and  pressing  repeatedly. 
Make  into  little  round  balls  slightly  flat- 
tened, and  if  not  plenty  of  room  in  the 
pans  grease  slightly  between  each  one 
with  a  brush  dipped  in  melted  lard  or 
butter.     Brush   over  the   tops    with  the 


same,  and  set  the  rolls  to  rise  about  45 
minutes.  Brash  over  with  clear  water 
on  taking  them  from  the  ovea 

Cost  of  material — flour  10,  yeast  3, 
molasses  3;  16  cents  for  4  dozen  or  4c 
per  dozen — sold  same  as  cream  rolls. 


262— Coffee   Cakes. 


2  pounds  light  dough. 

4  ounces  sugar. 

4  ounces  butter. 

4  yolks  eggs 

Large  half  cup  milk. 

Flour  to  make  it  soft  dough. 

Take  the  piece  of  common  bread 
dough,  already  light  and  fit  to  be  made 
into  a  loaf,  6  hours  before  the  coffee 
cakes  are  wanted  to  be  baked,  place  it 
in  a  pan  with  the  butter,  sugar  and  milk. 
Let  aU  get  warmed  through  and  the  but- 
ter softened,  then  mix  them  thoroughly. 
Next  add  the  eggs  and  flour  by  littles, 
alternately,  beating  the  mixture  up 
against  the  side  of  the  pan,  to  make  it 
smooth  and  elastic.  Spread  the  last 
handful  of  flour  on  the  table,  knead  the 
dough  as  for  rolls,  pressing  and  spread- 
ing it  out  with  the  knuckles,  and  folding 
it  over  repeatedly.  Set  it  in  a  warm 
place  for  2  or  3  hours.  Then  knead  it 
the  second  time.  Every  time  the  dough 
is  doubled  on  itself  the  two  edges  shoidd 
be  pressed  together  first  When  the 
dough  is  good  and  finished  it  looks  silky, 
and  air  will  snap  from  the  edge  when  it 
is  pinched.  After  this  second  kneading 
the  dough  should  stand  an  hour  and 
then  be  kneaded  once  more  and  made 
into  shapes.  The  best  shape  is  a  twist 
made  by  taking  as  much  dou^h  as  would 
make  a  cream  roU — size  of  an  egg  be- 
fore raising,  roll  ib  under  the  hands  to  a 
long  rope,  pinch  the  ends  together  and 
make  a  long  twist  Rise  in  the  pans  1^ 
hours.  Bake  in  a  slow  oven  15  min- 
utes. Brush  over  when  done  with 
sugar  and  water  mixed,  and  flavored 
with  vanilla,  and  dredge  granulated  su- 
gar over.  If  to  be  made  overnight  with- 
out light  dough  for  a  start,  all  the  ingre- 


80 


SAN  FRANCISCO  BOTEL  OAZETLES 


dients  can  be  mixed  at  once  by  taking 
a  pint  of  yeast  and  a  half  pint  of  milk — 
or  nearly  all  yeast — adding  all  the  other 
articles  and  flour  to  make  soft  dough. 


Cost  of  material— dough  5,  sugar  3, 
butter  7,  yolks  6  milk,  flour,  flavor  3; 
24  cents  for  30  cakes— sell  at  2  for  6c 
with  ^  oz  butter. 


263— French   Coffee  Cakes. 


The  plain  coffee  cakes  described  in  the 
preceding  receipt  are  the  same  that  hotel 
pastry  cooks  call  rusks.  They  are  not 
80  easy  to  raise  and  bake  perfectly  as 
plain  rolls,  but  where  they  are  made  in 
perfection  and  nicely  brushed  over  with 
syrup  wheu  done  they  are  extremely 
popular  as  a  lunch  with  coffee  or  milk; 
but  still  more  of  a  favorite  is  this  variety, 
called  French .  The  same  dough  answers ; 
the  difference  is  in  making  out,  as  these 
have  the  dough  brushed  between  with  a 
very  little  melted  lard  and  rolled  up  so 
that  the  cakes  when  baked  will  pull  apart 
in  flakes  and  strings.  The  same  as  in 
making  split  rolls.  Wherever  the  butter 
touches,  the  roll  will  come  apart  after 
baking,  these  cakes  having  the  whole 
sheet  of  dough  slightly  brushed  over 
with  lard  or  butter  and  folded  upon  itself 
without  further  kneading,  will  produce 
the  layers  and  flakes  in  the  cake.  These 
are  made  in  the  shape  of  a  large  pretzel, 
raised,  baked,  brushed  over  with  syrup 
and  one,  weighing  about  the  same  as  one 
and  a  half  of  the  others,  served  to  an  or- 
der. When  a  still  richer  kind  is  wanted 
use  the  following  ingredients : 

1  pound  light  dough — 2  heaping  cups. 

6  ounces  butter — nearly  a  cup. 

4  tablespoons  sugar. 

6  yolks  and  1  whole  egg: 
i  cup  milk. 

5  cups  flour. 
Flavoring. 

If  for  ladies*  luncheon  or  aftemoon  tea 
take  the  dough  from  the  breakfast  rolls, 
and,  six  hours  before  the  cakes  or  rusks 
will  be  wanted  place  it  in  a  pan  with  the 
batter,  sugar,  and  milk  and   proceed  ac- 1 


cording  to  the  directions  given  already 
for  coffee  cakes.  The  best  flavoring  to 
put  in  this  dough  is  the  grated  rind  of  a 
lemon  and  half  the  juice. 

Cost  of  material  for  the  richest  vari- 
ety— dough  3,  butter  10,  sugar  3,  eggs 
8,  flour  3,  milk  and  flavoring 3;  30  cents 
for  3  pounds  or  about  24  rusks,  b ms, 
twists  or  coffee  cakes,  according  to  size. 

264 -Cheapest  Coffee  Cake. 


2  pounds  light  bread  dough— 4  cups 
large. 

4  ounces  sugar — J  cup. 

4  ounces  butter  or  lard — J  cupt 

1  e^^,     (Nt»t  essential.) 

Take  the  dough  at  noon  and  mix  in  the 
ingredients  all  slightly  warm.  Knead  it 
on  the  table  with  flour  sufficent.  Set  to 
rise  until  4  o'clock.  Knead  it  again  by 
fioreading  it  out  on  the  table  with  the 
Ltmckles,  folding  over  and  repeating. 
Roll  it  out  to  sheets  scarcely  thicker 
thau  a  pencil,  place  on  baking  pans, 
brush  over  with  either  water  or  melted 
lard  or  milk.  Rise  about  an  hour. 
Score  the  cakes  with  a  knife  point  as  you 
put  them  in  the  oven  to  prevent  the  crust 
puffing  up.     Bake  about  15  minutes. 

One  of  the  attractions  of  this  plain 
cake  is  the  powdered  cinnamon  and  su- 
gar sifted  on  top  after  baking,  the  cake 
being  first  brushed  with  sugar  and  water. 
Cut  in  squires  if  not  baked  in  sheet 
cakes  of  right  size  for  '^ale  already. 

Cost  of  material— dough  5,  sugar  4, 
lard  5,  e^^^  flour,  cinnamon,  4;  18  cents 
for  3  pounds— enough  for  8  five  cent 
sheets  or  36  round  plain  buns. 

265— Stollen  or  Picnic  Bread. 

IJ  cups  water  or  milk. 
-J  cup  yeast. 

1  teaspoon  salt 

4  tablespoons  sugar. 

i  cup  butter.  » 

2  eggs. 

1  nutmeg. 
1  cup  raisins 


COOKING  FOR    PROFIT, 


81 


1  cup  currants. 

Flour  to  make  soft  dough — 3  pounds. 

Set  sponge  same  as  for  bread  with  part 
of  the  flour,  yeast  and  water  at  8  in  the 
morning.  At  twelve  make  it  up  into 
dough  and  work  in  all  the  other  ingre- 
dients. Let  rise  until  4.  Work  it  oc 
the  table,  cut  in  G  pieces,  mould  them 
up  into  round  loaves,  make  a  depression 
like  a  trough  with  the  wrists  along  the 
middle,  brush  one  side  with  butter  and 
fold  the  two  sides  together  like  a  large 
eplit  roll  of  elongated  shape.  Rise  an 
hour.  Bake  in  a  slack  oven.  Brush 
over  with  syrup  when  done.  The  same 
may  be  made  by  taking  4  or  5  cups  of 
dough  from  the  bread,  already  light  and 
mixing  the  other  ingredients  in  as  for 
rusks  and  coffee  cakes. 


Cost  of  material — dough  5,  flour  to 
work  in  3,  sug-ir  3,  butter  or  lard  6, 
eggs  4,  fruit  and  nutmeg  20;  41  cents, 
or  8c  per  pound.  May  be  made  in  all 
sorts  of  shapes  and  baked  in  pans  or 
molds  to  serve  as  a  cheap  sort  of  fruit 
cake. 


266— Cheapest   Gingerbread,  Yeast- 
Raised. 


4  cups  light  bread  dough — 2  pounds. 

1  cup  black  molasses — 10  oz. 

1  cup,  small,  lard  or  butter — 6  osi 

1  heaping  teaspoon  ground  ginger. 

Flour  to  make  it  soft  dough. 

An  Q^^  improves  it  but  is  not  essen- 
tial. 

Work  the  ingredients  all  together 
at  about  si^  hours  before  baking  time. 
Let  rise  4  hours,  knead  it  on  the  table, 
taking  care  the  molasses  in  the  dough 
does  not  cause  you  to  take  in  too  much 
flour  and  make  the  cake  tough.  Roll  it 
out  in  sheets,  tike  up  on  the  rolling  pin 
and  unroll  on  the  baking  pans.  Brush 
over  the  top  with  water  that  has  a  little 
melted  1  ird  in  it.  Rise  in  the  pans  about 
an  hour,  bake  20  minutes.  Brush  over 
with  syrup.  Cut  in  square  blocks  for 
sale. 


Cost  of  material— dough  5,  molasses 
3,  lard  8,  ginger  2,  flour  3;  21  cents  for 
4  pounds.  Size  of  cakes  according  to 
lightess.  Usually  cut  into  12  five  cent 
blocks. 

267— Currant  Buns. 


No  eggs  required.  Favorite  sort  and 
quickly  made.     This  makes  20. 

4  cups  light  dough — 2  pounds. 

1  small  cup  currants. 

^  cup  softened  butter. 

\  cup  sugar. 

It  is  soon  enough  to  begin  these  2 
hours  before  baking  time  or  before  sup- 
per. Take  the  dough  from  the  rolls  say 
at  4  o'clock.  Spread  it  out,  strew  the 
currants  over  and  knead  them  in.  Roll 
out  the  dough  to  J  inch  sheet.  Spread 
the  butter  evenly  over  it  and  the  sugar 
en  top  of  that.  Cut  in  bands  about  as 
wide  ap  your  hand.  Roll  them  up  like 
roly-poly  puddings.  Brush  these  long 
rolls  all  over  slightly  with  a  little  melted 
lard  so  that  the  buns  will  not  stick  to- 
gether in  the  pans.  Then  cut  off  in 
pieces  about  an  inch  thick.  Place  fiat  in 
a  buttered  pan,touching  but  not  crowded. 
Rise  nearly  an  hour,  Bake  15  minutes. 
Brush  oxer  with  sugar  and  water. 
Dredge  sugar  and  cinn  mon  over. 

Cost  of  material — dough  5,  currants 
3,  butter  8,  sugar  and  cinnamon  4;  20 
cents  or  1  cent  each. 


268 — Cinnamon  Buns. 


The  same  as  the  preceding  with  the 
currants  left  out,  and  some  ground  cin- 
namon mixed  with  sugar  that  is  spread 
over  the  sheet  of  dough  instead.  Thb 
buns  can  be  uncoiled  after  baking  on  ac- 
count of  the  butter  being  rolled  up  in 
them. 


269— Plain  Doughnuts. 

4  cups  light  bread  dough — 2  lbs. 

^  cup  sugar. 

2  ounces  melted  lard. 

Lard  to  fry. 


82 


SAK  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


Take  the  dough  from  the  breakfast 
rolls,  say  at  9  in  the  morning,  in  Winter. 
In  Summer  the  dough  worked  up  at 
mid-day  will  do.  Mix  in  the  ingredients, 
let  stand  half  an  hour  Work  up  stiff 
with  flour  suflScient,  and  set  to  rise  about 
4  hours.  Then  knead, apd  roll  it  out  to  a 
sheet  Brush  over  the  whole  sheet  of 
dough  with  a  very  little  melted  lird. 

Cut  out  with  a  large  biscuit  cutler  and 
cut  the  middle  out  with  a  small  one. 
This  makes  rings,  which  must  be  set  to 
rise  on  greased  pans  about  J  hour,  then 
dropped  in  hot  lard.  Sift  sugar  over 
when  done.  They  cook  m  about  5  min- 
utes. 


Cost  of  material — dough  5,  sugar  and 
lard  5,  lard  to  fry  8;  18  cents  for  about 
24. 

270— Bread  Doughnuts. 

Only  plain  dough,  or  French  roll 
dough.  Cut  out  biscuit  shapes,  let  rise, 
and  fry.  These  are  very  often  found  at 
railroad  lunch  stands ;  nearly  as  cheap  as 
bread  and  butter,  and  very  saleable. 

271— Bismarcks. 

bort  of  doughnut  with  stewed  fruit  in- 
side. 

4  cups  light  dough — 2  pounds. 

1  bastingspoon  molasses. 

1  bastingspoon  sugar. 

1  egg. 

1  baatingspoon  melted  lard. 

^  cup  Ptewed  apple  or  other  fruit . 

Lard  to  fry. 

Put  the  light  dough  in  a  pan  with  all 
the  other  ingredients  except  the  fruit, 
and  work  them  together,  and  let  stand 
■J  hour.  Then  add  flour  sufficient  to 
make  a  soft  dough  of  it  and  set  it  to  rise 
about  4  hours.  Then  roll  it  out  to  a 
very  thin  sheet  and  brush  over  with 
water.  Put  a  teaspoonful  of  fruit  at  the 
right  distances  apart  on  one  half  of  it, 
fold  the  other  half  over  and  cut  with  a 
large  biscuit  cutter  so  that  the  inclosed 
spots  of  fruit  will  be  in  the  middle.    Rise 


on  pans  like  rolls  nearly  an  hour,  then 
drop  in  hot  lard  and  fry  to  a  fine  brown 
color.  

Cost  of  material — dough  5,  molasses 
and  sugar  3,  egg  2,  stewed  fruit  3, 
flour  2;  lard  to  fry  8;  23  cents  for  20. 

jq"oTE — The  mixture  of  molasses  and 
sugar  makes  a  better  color  on  the  dough- 
nut than  sugar  alone.  Always,  when 
making  any  kind  of  fried  cake  take  care 
to  have  the  sugar  dissolved  before  it  goes 
into  the  flour,  for  mixing  dry  sugar  in  is 
one  of  the  main  causes  of  such  things 
soaking  up  grease.  It  is  an  improvement 
to  dredge  them  with  powdered  sugar 
when  done. 

272— Fried  Pies. 


A  very  good  and  saleable  sort  is  pre- 
cisely like  Bismarcks  except  the  shape. 
Cut  out  large  flats,  wet  the  edge,  put  a 
spoonful  of  fruit  in  the  middle  and  double 
the  sido  over  like  any  other  sort  of  turn- 
over. Rise  an  hour  and  fry.  Another 
sort  of  fried  pie  is  made  of  common  cov- 
ered pie  paste,  in  shape  like  a  turnover, 
with  a  little  fruit  inside.  Close  the  edges 
well  Fry  as  soon  as  made,  light  col- 
ored, in  hot  lard.  The  others  are  a  kind 
of  fried  bread  and  light.  These  are  fried 
pie  paste,  yelU>w  and  crisp. 

273— Scotch  Seed  Cake. 

Takes  five  hours  time  to  make,  raise, 
and  bake,  using  dough  to  begin  with. 

2  pounds  light-bread  dough — 5  cnpa. 

12  ounces  sugar — IJ  cups. 

12  ounces  of  butter — 1 J  cups. 

4  eggs. 

1  teaspoon  caraway  seeds. 

8  ounces  flour — 2  cups. 

Weigh  out  the  dough  at  7  in  the  morn- 
ing. Set  it  with  the  butter  and  sugar  in 
a  warm  place.  At  about  9  work  all 
together  and  beat  in  the  eggs  one  at  a 
time,  and  add  the  carraway.  Give  it 
another  half  hour  to  stand  and  become 
smooth,  then  add  the  flour  and  give  the 
who^e  ten  minutes  beating.  It  makes  a 
stiff  batter — not  dough. 


COOKING  FOB   PROFIT. 


83 


Put  it  ia  two  buttered  cake  moulcls. 
Kise  about  an  hour.  It  should  not  be 
too  light,  bake  as  you  would  bread,  in  a 
slack  oven,  less  than  an  hour. 

Cost  of  material — dough  5,  sugar, 
seeds,  and  flour  10  butter  24,  eggs  9; 
48  cents  for  nearly  4  pounds  or  two 
2- quart  molds,  or  12c  per  pound. 

Note — These  raised  cakes  are  like 
fresh  bread,  cannot  be  sliced  till  a  day  or 
two  old  without  waste. 


274— Scotch  Tea  Cakes. 

2  pounds  light-bread  dough. 

8  ounces  sugar. 

8  ounces  lard. 

1  teaspoonful  carraway  seeds. 

1  pound  flour. 

The  difference  between  this  and  the 
preceeding  kind  is  that  this  makes  a  soft 
dough,  to  be  handled  and  kneaded  like 
bread.  It  is  less  rich  and  requires  no 
eggs .  Make  it  up  the  same  way  or  like 
the  cheapest  coffee  cake  and  let  rise  in 
thin  cakes  on  jelly  cake  pans.  Brush 
over  v/ith  melted  lard  when  setting  to 
rise.  Score  the  tops  with  a  knife  point 
when  they  are  light  and  bake  about  15 
minutes.  If  for  sale  bru'^h  over  with 
syrup  and  dredge  with  sugar. 

Cost  of  material — 25  cents  for  nearly 
4  pounds— equal  to  about  3  dozen  buns 
or  G  jelly-sheet  cakes  to  cut.  Good  hot 
for  supper. 

275— New  England  Cake. 

Make  the  Scotch  seed  cake  but  with  1 
pound  of  seeded  or  seedless  raisins  and 
half  cupful  of  brandy  and  flavorings,  and 
omit  the  carrawav  seeds. 


276— Yeast-Raised  Plum  Cake. 

The  slowest  to  rise.  Use  the  liveli- 
est dough,  and  in  winter  it  had  better 
be  saved  over  night  and  mixed  up  with 
the  mam  part  ot  the  ingredients;  add  the 
fruit  next  morning,  and  bake  after  din- 
ner. 


2  pounds  light  bread  dough. 

1  pound  black  molasses  and  sugar, 
mixed. 

1  pound  butter. 

6  eggs. 

12  ounces  flour. 

1  ounce   mixed  ground  spices. 

1^  pounds  seedless  raisins. 

1  pound  currants. 

8  ounces  citron. 

Brandy,  and  lemon  extract. 

Warm  the  dough  and  all  the  ingre- 
dients slightly.  5fix  well,  except  the 
fruit  and  brandy.  Beat  the  batter,  and 
set  to  rise  in  the  mixing  pan  about  3 
hours.  Beat  again  and  add  the  fruit, 
previously  floured.  Line  the  moulds 
with  battered  paper,  half  fill  and  set  to 
rise  again  about  '2  hours.  Bake  from 
one  hour  to  two,  according  to  size.  Large 
cakes  should  have  a  coating  of  paper  tied 
outside  the  moulds  to  protect  the  crust 
during  the  two  hours  baking. 

These  cakes  should  not  be  turned  out 
of  the  moulds  till  at  least  one  day  old. 

Cost  of  material — dough  5,  molasses 
and  sugar  II,  butter  30,  eggs  12,  flour 
and  spices  8,  raisins  30,  currants  10, 
citron  20,  brandy  and  extract  12;  $1,  38 
for  about  8  pounds  or  two  2-quart  moulds, 
or  about  18c  per  pound. 

Note — AH  of  the  foregoing  articles 
are  made  lijrht  with  yeast  and  all  are 
made  by  taking  a  piece  of  dough  that  is 
already  light  either  from  the  family  bread 
pan  or  bakera  trough.  A  very  good  sort 
of  apple  dumpling  is  cheaply  made  in  the 
same  way  of  the  same  dough  as  for 
doughnuts,  the  dumplings  allowed  to 
remain  in  the  pans  long  enough  for  the 
dough  to  become  light  before  baking. 
The  dumplings  like  the  doughnuts  and 
all  other  varieties  must  have  a  slight 
brushing  over  of  melted  lard  to  prevent 
a  era  St  forming  on  them  and  cracking 
open  while  set  away  to  rise. 

277— Rusks. 


These  are  slices  of  various  sorts  of  cake 
dried  in  the  oven  something  like  dry  toast 


84 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


The  coffee  cakes  previously  described,  if 
baked  in  loaves  and  sliced  when  stale 
make  the  best  of  r  asks  and  for  this  reason 
perhaps,  have  gained  the  name  of  rasks 
when  hot  and  in  fancy  shapes.  But  the 
name  is  not  correct.  They  are  then  cakes 
or  buns.  The  following  are  special 
Borts : 


278— Marlborough  Rusks. 


Make  the  common  sponge  cake — called 
eight-egg  sponge  cake  in  the  index — and 
add  to  the  mixture  along  with  the  flour 
one  ounce  carraway  seeds .  Bake  m  long 
narrow  moulds.  When  a  day  old,  slice 
and  brown  the  slices  in  the  oven.  These 
crisped  slices  can  be  kept  a  long  time, 
and  serve  much  the  same  purpose  as 
sweet  crackers. 


Cost  of  material — 32  cents  for  32 
dices,  or  according  to  size. 

279— Anisette   Rusks. 

8  ounces  granulated  sugar — 1  cup, 

10  eggs. 

4  ounces  almonds. 

6  ounces  flour. 

\  ounce  anise  seed. 

Mince  the  almonds  as  fine  as  possible, 
without  removing  the  skins.  ]\Iix  them 
and  the  anise  bced  with  the  flour  dry. 
Beat  the  sugar  and  egg;s  together  about 
20  minutes  or  until  quite  light,  as  if  for 
sponge  cake,  and  lightly  stir  in  the  flour 
etc  Bake  in  long  and  narrow  moulds  and 
when  a  day  old  slice  and  brown  the 
slices  on  both  sides  in  the  oven. 

Cost  of  material — 39  cents. 

280— Russian  Wine  Rusks. 

Make  with  the  s. me  care  in  beating 
the  eggs  and  cutting  in  the  flour  lightly 
that  IS  needed  to  make  sponge  cake 
good. 

14  ounces  granulated  sugar. 

12  eggs. 

8  ounces  almonds. 

8  oinces  graham  flour. 


1  teaspoon  almond  extract. 

Crush  the  almonds  with  the  rolling- 
pin  on  the  table  without  removing  the 
skins,  and  then  mix  them  with  the  gra- 
ham flour,which  should  have  the  coarsest 
bran  sifted  away  before  weighing.  Beat 
the  sugar  and  eggs  together  in  a  cool 
place  about  20  minutes  or  until  light  and 
thick.  Stir  in  the  flavoring  and  flour 
and  almonds.  Bake  in  long,  narrow 
molds  and  when  a  day  old  slice  and 
brown  the  slices  in  the  oven. 

Cost  of  material — sugar  10,  eggs  25, 
almonds  20,  flour  2,  extract  1;  58  cents 
for  2 J  pounds. 

Note. — Rusks  of  the  preceding  sorts 
may  be  seen  in  the  windows  of  many  of 
the  best  confectioneries.  They  are  as 
expensive  as  cakes  and  are  sold  accor- 
dingly. 

The  way  of  mixing  the  sponge  cake 
batter  for  the  two  foregoing  is  for  one 
person  working  alone.  The  eggs  and 
sugar  can  be  made  perfectly  light  by 
sufficient  beating.  If  it  is  preferred  to 
separate  the  eggs  and  have  the  whites 
and  yolks  and  sugar  beaten  separately 
by  two  persons,  observe  to  mix  in  the 
whipped  whites  last  of  all,  after  the  flour 
and  all  else. 


281— Sponge  Cake  Squares. 

14  ounces  sugar — 2  cups. 

8  eggs. 

1  cup  water. 

18  ounces  flour — 4  rounded  cups. 

1  heaping  teaspoon  baking  powder. 

Separate  the  eggs,  put  the  sugar  and 
water  with  the  yolks  and  beat  up  until 
light  and  thick.  Mix  the  powder  with 
the  flour.  Whip  up  the  whites.  Stir 
the  flour  into  the  yolk  mixture  and  then 
the  whites.  As  soon  as  they  are  fairly 
mixed  in  out  of  sight  it  is  ready.  Spread 
it  -h  inch  deep  in  a  greased  baking  pan. 
Dredge  a  very  little  powdered  sugar 
over  the  surface  and  bake  about  10  min- 
utes. When  cold  cut  it  into  10  or  12 
square  blocks. 

Cost  of  material — 30c; 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT. 


85 


282— Small  Sponge  Cakes. 

Either  the  foregoing  or  the  other 
9ponge  cake  mixture  baked  in  any  sort 
of  gem  pans  or  small  oblong  molds.  They 
are  among  the  articles  that  sell  in  large 
quantities  when  well  made,  and  being 
light  are  profitable,  h  ey  may  be  varied 
by  being  frosted  on  top  or  in  squares  in 
the  pans. 

283— Wafer  Jumbles 

14  ounces  sugar — 2  cups. 

14  ounces  butter — 2  cups . 

11  eggs. 

18  ounces  flour — 4  rounded  cups. 

Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together, 
beat  in  the  eggs  2  at  a  time,  add  the  flour, 
beat  well.  Put  into  a  ladi  finger  sack 
or  paper  comet.  Make  ringa  on  baking 
pans  very  slightly  greased,  and  bake  in 
a  slack  oven.  Thoy  run  out  to  a  flat  and 
thin  shape  and  become  crisp  and  brown. 
Need  careful  baking.  If  the  first  tried 
loses  the  nng  form  altogether  add  an 
ounce  or  two  more  flour. 


Cost  of  material — sugar  10.  bntter 

30,  eggs  22,   flour  4:  66  cents  for  3 J 
pounds. 

284 — Drop  Cakes, 


1  pound  sugar — 2  cups . 
10  eggs. 

10  ounces  butter — 1  large  cup. 

i  pint  milk  or  water. 

4  teaspoons  baking  powder. 

2  pounds  flour — 8  level  cups. 

Beat  the  sugar  and  eggs  together  a 
few  minutes,  in  a  good  sized  pan,  as  if 
baking  sponge  cake.  Melt  the  butter  in 
a  little  saucepan,  beat  it  in  and  the  milk, 
powder  and  flour.  Beat  up  well  Drop 
spoonfnls  on  baking  pans  very  slightly 
greased  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 
They  rise  in  the  middle  cone  shaped 
For  variations  sprinkle  currants  on  top, 
or  a  shred  of  citron,  or  gravel  sugar. 
The  latter  is  crushed  loaf  sugar  sifted 
through  thi  holes  of  a  colander  and  the 
duBt  sifted  away. 


Cost  of  material — sugar  10,  eggs, 
20,  batter  20,  powder  4,  flour  6;  60 
cents  for  4 J  pounds  plain — about  80  to 
100  according  to  size  and  lightneps. 

285~German  Almond  Cake. 


A  cheap  and  simple  sort  of  lunch  cake 
to  be  cut  in  square  blocks  Only  good 
while  fresh. 

8  ounces  sugar — 1  cup. 

4  ounces  butter — J  cup. 

6  eggs. 

1  pint  milk  or  water — 2  cupa. 

3  large  teaspoons  baking  powder 
\\  pounds  flour — 6  cups. 

2  ounces  almonds. 
Little  salt 

Mix  up  like  pound  cake  "by  creaming 
the  sugar  and  butter  together,  adding 
the  eggff  two  at  a  time,  the  milk  and 
then  the  flour  with  powder  and  salt 
Spread  it  ^  inch  deep  in  a  greased  baking 
pan  and  bake  about  30  mmutes  in  sT 
slack  oven.  Mince  the  almonds  fine, 
after  scalding  and  peeling  them.  When 
the  cake  is  done  brush  over  the  top  with 
syrup  and  sprinkle  the  minced  almonds 
upon  it     Cut  in  16  square  blocks. 

Cost  of  material— 40  cents  for  3J 
pounds. 

286— Corn  Rolls. 


The  bakery  name  for  them.  Also 
known  as  com  gems  and  muflSns.  They 
are  in  demand  like  cream  rolls  and  gra- 
ham with  coffee  or  milk. 

8  ounces  white  com  meal — 1^  cups. 

2  ounces  butter  or  lard — large  e^'^ 
size. 

\  pint  boiling  water — 1  cupt 

1^  cups  cold  milk. 

4  ounces  flour — 1  cup. 

1  tablespoon  sugar. 

2  eggs.     Salt. 

1  teaspoon  baking  powder. 

Sift  the  meal  into  a  pan,  place  the 
butter  or  lard  in  the  middle  and  pour  in 
the  boiling  water  and  mix  up  Throw 
in  the  salt  and  sugar.  Add  cold  milk 
and  flour,  then  the  eggs  and  powder  and 


86 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  OAZETLES 


beat  up  with  the  egrg  whisk.  The  mix- 
ture is  thin  like  batter  cakes.  Make 
deep  gem  pans  hot  without  greaeing 
them,  eo  that  they  hiss  when  the  batter 
is  poured  in  then  there  will  not  be  any 
black  marks  on  the  rolls.  Bake  about 
15  or  20  minutes. 


Cost  of  material — 12  cents  for  24  to 
36  according  to  size — sell  same  as  wheat 
rolls,  3  for  5c  with  ^  oz  butter. 

287— Macaroon  Cake. 


A  thin  sheet  of  cake  baked  first,  then 
either  spread  or  striped  with  cocoanut 
macaroon  mixture,  baked  lightly  and 
finished  with  spots  of  jelly. 

For  the  cake: 

8  ounces  sugar — 1  cup. 

4  ounces  butter — J  cup. 

3  eggs. 

J  cup  milk  or  water. 

1  large  teaspoon  baking  powder. 
Flour   to  roll   out,  or   about  4  cups. 

Warm  the  butter  and  sugsw  slightly,  stir 
them  together,  add  the  eggs,  milk,  pow- 
der and  flour.  Work  the  dough  on  the 
table  and  roll  it  out  thiui  Bake  on  a 
shallow  pan  to  a  light  color. 

For  the  macaroon  paste: 

8  ounces  sugar — 1  cup. 

2  whites  of  egg^s. 

4  ounces  desiccated  cocoanut. 
Little  lemon  extract. 

Stir  the  sugar  and  whites  together  in 
a  small  bowl  rapidly  for  about  5  mm- 
utes.  Add  the  extract  and  the  cocoa- 
nut.  When  mixed  placo  it  in  cords 
across  the  sheet  of  cake  and  bake  again 
in  a  slack  oven  until  the  macaroon  on 
top  has  a  light  brown  color  Place  fruit 
jelly  in  the  hollows  between  the  ridges. 

Cost  of  material — 43  cents  plain — 
with  jelly  5  cents  more — for  nearly  3 
pounds.     Cut  in  18  or  20  squares. 

288— Boston  Cream  Puffs  or  Cream 
Cakes. 


Common  in  the  baker's  shops,  consist- 
ing of  two  parts,  the  hollow   shell  made 


with  a  cooked  paste  not  sweetened  and  a 
thick  custard  for  filling.  This  makes 
about  20. 

J  pint  water — 1  cup. 

4  ounces  lard  or  butter — J-cup, 

4  ounces  flour — 1  cup. 

5  eggs. 

Little  salt  when  lard  is  used. 

Set  the  water  on  to  boil  with  the  lard 
in  it.  Put  in  the  flour  dry  as  it  Is  and 
all  at  once,  and  stir  the  mixture  over  the 
fire  about  five  minutes  or  until  it  has  be- 
come a  smooth,  well  cooked  paste.  Take 
it  off  and  add  the  eggs  one  at  a  time  and 
beat  in  each  one  well  before  adding  the 
next.  Give  the  paste  a  thorough  beat- 
ing against  the  side  of  the  pan  for  finish. 

Drop  portions  size  of  an  egg  on  ba- 
king pans  very  slightly  greased  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about  20  mm- 
utes.  Let  the  puffs  bake  slowly  at  last 
and  dry  so  they  will  not  fall  when  taken 
out.  Cut  a  slit,  in  the  side  and  fill  with 
pastry    cream  by   means   of   a  teaspoon 


Note. — The  eggs  must  be  added  to  the 
cooked  paste  before  it  becomes  cold,  oth- 
erwise they  will  be  a  failure.  It  is  bet- 
ter to  use  light  weight  of  shortening  and 
full  weight  of  flour,  than  to  risk  disap- 
pointment by  making  them  too  short  to 
retain  their  hollow  form. 

It  will  be  found  when  the  first  pan  of 
puffs  do  not  rise  perfectly  that  the  paste 
can  be  much  improved  by  more  beating. 
Make  them  small  for  profit  but  large  for 
show  if  you  want  to  please  the  party. 


289— Pastry  Cream  or  Custard  For 
Cream  Cakes. 


1  pint  milk  or  water — 2  cups. 
4  ounces  sugar — J  cup. 

2  ounces  flour — J  cup. 

2  eggs.     Very  little  salt. 

1  tablespoon  lemon  extract,  or  vanilla. 

Boii  the  milk — a  spoonful  of  the  sugar 
in  it  will  prevent  scorching — mix  ihe 
sugar  and  flour  together  dry  and  very 
thoroughly,  drop  them   into  the  boilbg 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT 


87 


milk  and  beat  rapidly  with  an  egg  wbisk. 
When  it  has  thickened  add  the  eggs  and 
let  cook  elowly  at  back  of  the  range 
about  10  minutes  longer.  Flavor  when 
cool. 

The  foregoing  quantity  is  right  for  fill- 
ing the  20  puffs  of  the  preceding  receipt. 

Cost  of  cream  puffs — eggs  14,  butter 
8,  sugar  3,  extract  3,  flour  2;  30  cents 
for  from  15  to  25  according  to  size. 
Large  ones  sell  at  5c  each. 

290— Corn  Starch  Cream  Puffs. 


Lightest  thinest  shells  and  in  other  re- 
spects the  finest. 
1  cup  milk — J  pint. 
J  cup  butter— 3  ounces. 

4  heaping  tablespoons  starch — ^four 
ounces. 

5  eggs. 

Boil  half  the  milk  with  the  butter 
in  it.  Mix  the  starch  free  from  lumps 
with  the  other  half.  Pour  both  together 
and  let  cook  to  a  smooth  paste.  Add 
the  eggs  one  at  a  time  after  removing  it 
from  the  fire — and  beat  thoroughly. 
Drop  spoonfuls  size  of  guinea  eggs  on 
baking  pans  very  slightly  greased  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about  20  min- 
utes. This  makes  20  to  25.  Fill  with 
the  following: 

291— Corn  Starch  Pastry  Cream. 


1  cup  water  or   m'lk — J  pint. 

3  tablespoons  sugar — 3  ounces. 

1  heaping  tablespoon  starch — 1  ounce. 

Butter  size  of  a  walnut. 

1  egfif,  (2  yolks  are  better.) 

Lemon  or  vanilla  flavoring. 

Boil  the  water  or  milk  with  the  sugar 
in  it  Mix  the  starch  with  a  little  water 
extra;  pour  it  in  the  saucepan  and  stir 
up.  Then  before  it  has  boiled  again, 
add  the  egg  and  butter  and  stir  until 
the  mixture  becomes  quite  thick — per- 
haps ten  minutes.  Flavor  when  cool. 
Fill  the  puff  with  it  by  means  of  a  tea- 
spoon, the  pu£&  being  cut  open  at  the 
side. 


Note — ^The  preceding  kind  of  pastry 
cream  makes  a  good  lemon  cream  pie  if 
a  small  lemon  is  added  to  it.  Grate  the 
rind  and  squeeze  in  the  juice. 

Cost  of  com  starch  puffs  and  cream 
filling— 27  cents  for  20  to  25. 

292— Transparent  Puffs. 

1  cup  water — J  pint. 

Butter  size  of  an  egg — 1^  ounces. 
3  tablespoons  starch — 3  ounces. 

2  whole  eggs  and  3  whites. 

Make  the  same  way  as  other  cream 
puffs.  The  use  ot  them  is  to  make  puffs 
different  from  other  peoples  and  for  the 
tollowing  sort. 

293— Cocoanut   Eclairs' 


Make  20  cream  puffs  of  either  of  the 
three  mixtures  above  directed  and  take 
care  not  to  have  the  paste  too  soft  through 
the  eggs  being  very  large  or  the  flour 
scant,  as  these  should  rise  round  and 
hollow,  and  not  run  out  wide  on  the 
pans. 

When  baked  have  some  grated  cocoa- 
nut  mixed  with  graaulated  sugar  ready 
on  a  dish  and  roll  the  puffs  in  it,  giving 
a  good  coating.  Set  them  in  a  warm 
place  to  dry.  If  you  use  desiccated 
cocoanut,  mix  it  with  syrup  hot. 

294— Cream    Puff    Tarts. 


Line  20  common  patty  pans  with  a 
very  thin  bottom  of  good  pie  paele  or 
sweet  tart  paste  and  pnt  in  each  one  a 
spoonful  of  cream  puff  mixture — the 
same  as  for  Boston  cream  puffs — spread 
it  evenly,  then  bake  about  20  minutes. 
Have  some  syrup  ready  and  brush  over 
the  tops  and  dredge  with  either  cocoa- 
nut  or  chopped  almonds.  They  are  risen 
high  and  hollow  like  cream  pufife  in  the 
baking  and  this  surf  ice  dredging  is  to 
be  done  while  they  are  hot.  After  that 
raise  one  end  with  the  point  of  a  knife 
and  insert  a  teaspoonful  of  any  kind  of 
pastry  cream. 


Cost  of  material — about  2  cents  each. 


88 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


295— Chocolate  Pastry  Cream. 

2  caps  milk — 1  pint. 

^  cup  sugar — 4  ounces. 

2  heaping  tablespoons  flour — 2  ounces. 

•J  cup  grated  chocolate — 1  ounce. 

Butter  size  guinea  egg — 1  ounce. 

1  egg  (2  yolks  are  better). 

1  teaspoon  vanilla  extract. 

Boil  the  milk,  butter  and  grated  choc- 
olate together,  stirring  with  an  egg-beater 
to  prevent  buraing.  Mix  sugar  and 
flour  together  diy  in  a  pan  and  when  well 
mingled  beat  them  into  the  boiling  milk, 
then  set  the  saucepan  on  the  side  of  the 
range.  Mix  the  yolks  well  with  a  spoon- 
ful of  milk,  add  them  to  the  other  and 
let  cook  until  well  thickened.  Flavor 
with  vanilla  when  cold.  Use  it  to  fill 
chocolate  cream  puffs  same  way  as  plain 
pastry  custard. 

Cost    of  material — 13    cents    for 
cnpfnls. 

Note — The  foregoing  chocolate  cream 
makes  excellent  cream  pies  or  tarts,  the 
pie  crust  to  be  baked  first  then  the  filling 
put  in  and  frosting  over  the  top.  The 
common  unsweetened  chocolate  is  in- 
tended. When  the  sweet  chocolate  is 
used  a  larger  proportion  will  be  needed. 

296— Chocolate  Eclairs. 

Bake  cream  puff's  in  long  or  ovel 
shape,  put  in  a  small  amount  of  cream 
filling,  then  dip  the  tops  in  a  chocolate 
icing* made  of 

1  cup  sugar. 

4  tablespoons  water. 

2  ounces  common  chocolate. 

Grate  the  chocolate  and  set  it  on  with 
the  sugar  and  water  to  melt  gradually  in 
a  place  not  hot  enough  t »  bnra  it.  When 
it  has  at  lengrth  become  boilinj^  hot  beat 
it  to  thoro\ighly  mix,  nnd  dip  in  the  ar- 
ticles to  be  glazed  while  it  is  hot.  May 
be  used  also  to  spread  up<jn  cakes. 

297— French  Ceam  Puffs. 

All  three  of  the  puff"  mixtures  preced- 
ing are    unsweetened    and  cook    light 


colored ;  this   contains  a  little  sugar  and 
is  consequently  easy  to  bum. 

1  cup  water — J  pint. 

J  cup  butter — 3^  ounces. 

2  tablespoons  sugar — IJ  ounces. 
1  cup  flour — 5  ounces. 

3  eggs. 

1  teaspoon  extract  vaniUa. 

Boil  the  water  with  the  butter  and 
sugar  in  it,  in  a  deep  bowl-shaped  sauce- 
pan large  enough  to  finish  the  paste  in. 
Put  in  the  flour  all  at  once  and  stir  until 
you  have  a  stiff,  smooth  paste,  or  about 
5  minutes.  Take  it  from  the  fire,  drop 
in  one  egg  at  a  time  and  boat  it  in  thor- 
oughly before  adding  another.  When 
all  are  in  give  the  paste  a  very  thorough 
beating  against  the  side  of  the  saucepan. 
Drop  pieces  in  either  round  or  egg  shapes 
on  a  baking  pan  very  slightly  greased. 
Bake  them  about  20  minutes  in  a  mode- 
rate oven.  They  rise  rounded  and  hol- 
low. Cut  a  slit  in  the  side  and  fill  with 
my  sort  of  pastry  cream  or  with   fruit 

je%  

298— Coffee    Pastry  Cream. 


1  cup  clear  very  strong  coffee. 

1  cup  cream. 

^  cup  sugar — 4  ounces, 
J  cup  flour — 2  ounces. 

2  eggs — (4  yolks  make  it  better.) 

Set  the  coffee  and  cream  on  to  boil. 
Mix  the  sugar  and  flour  together  dry 
then  drop  them  into  the  boiling  liquid 
and  beat  up  rapidly  with  an  egg  beater, 
(This  is  the  quickest  and  easiest  way  of 
thickening  all  flour  custards  and  pudding 
sauces).  When  it  has  thickened  add 
the  eggs  slightly  beaten  and  cook  5  min- 
utes more.  Use  to  fill  cream  puffs  or 
cakes  or  tarts,  or  make  coffee  cream  pie 
with  frosting  on  top. 


Cost  of  French  cream  puffs — the  paste 
16,  coffee  pastry  cream  16;  32  cents  for 
16.  With  jelly  for  filling  about  the  same. 
Large  puffs  sell  5c  each.  May  be 
brushed  over  the  top  with  sugar  slightly 
wetted,  and  then  dried. 


COOKING  FOR    PROFIT. 


89 


299— Cream  Cake  or  Washington  Pie. 

Consists  of  two  layers  of  cako  with 
pasiry  cream  spread  between — ^like  jelly 
cake — and  either  powdered  sugar  or  plain 
icing  on  top.     For  the  cake  take 

1  cup  sugar — 8  ounces. 
5  eggs. 

J  cup  butter — 4  ounces. 

^  cup  water — large  measure. 

2  teaspoons  baking  powder. 

3  cups  flour. 

Put  the  sugar,  eggs  and  water  into  a 
pan  and  beat  them  together  a  minute  or 
two.  Have  the  butter  melted  and  stir 
it  in,  then  the  powder  and  flour.  Beat 
all  well  together.  Bake  thinly  spread  on 
jelly  cake  pans  or  on  a  large  baking  pan 
to  cut  in  squares.  There  are  cheaper 
mixtures  that  can  be  used  for  the  same 
purpose  but  this  if  well  made  with  suffi- 
cient powder  rises  very  light  and  makes 
a  large  amount.  Spread  the  same  pastry 
cream  between  that  is  directed  for  cream 
puffs. 

Cost  of  material — cake  26,  pastry 
cream  13  39  cents. 


300— Napoleon  Cake. 

Consists  of  two  layers  of  puff  paste 
baked  separately,  pastry  cream  spread 
upon  one  the  other  placed  on  top,  and 
icing  sugar  slightly  wetted  spread  upon 
that. 

Make  puff  paste  with  three  quarters  of 
a  pound  of  butter  to  a  pound  of  flour. 
Roll  it  and  fold  it  only  6  times  instead 
of  7  as  for  tarts.  Cut  in  two,  roll  out 
thin,  place  the  sheets  of  paste  on  two 
baking  pans  and  after  baking  light  col- 
ored place  one  on  the  other  prepared  as 
above  directed.  The  com  starch  pastry 
cream  may  be  used.  The  glaze  for  the 
top  is  the  same  as  pearl  glaze  for  angel 
food.     Cut  in  squares  when  finij?hed. 

Cost  of  material — puff  paste  24,  pas- 
try cream  13,  glace  3;  40  cents,  or  same 
as  Washington  pie.  Can  be  cut  in  8  or 
10  ten-cent  squares,  according  to  light- 
ness. 


Note — In  order  to  handle  sheets  of 
puff  paste  without  breaking:  it  is  neces- 
sary to  roll  up  the  raw  paste  on  the 
rolling-pin  and  unroll  it  on  the  pan  it  is 
to  be  baked  on,  never  touching  it  with 
the  hands.  Take  up  the  sheet  of  paste 
after  baking  by  sliding  two  broad  knives 
under,  or  paddles  made  of  shingles. 

301— Saratoga    Cake. 

Bake  two  sheets  of  puff  paste  the  same 
as  for  Napoleon  cake.  Spread  fruit  jelly, 
preserves  or  some  good  fruit  stewed 
down  rich  upon  one  sheet,  place  the  oth- 
er sheet  on  top  and  cover  that  with  frost- 
ing, the  same  as  for  lemon  pies.  Cut  in 
squares. 

Cost  of  material — about  40c,  or  ac- 
cording to  kind  of  jelly  or  jam  used. 

302— Florentine  Pastry. 

Consists  of  a  bottom  crust  of  rich  pie 
paste  in  a  broad  baking  pan  with  jam  or 
good  fruit  stewed  down  with  sugar, 
baked  in  it,  and  a  covering  of  frosting 
the  same  as  for  lemon  pie  <t  strawberry 
meringue  well  sprinkled  over  with  shred 
almonds  and  slightly  baked. 

303— English  Fruit  Pies. 

These  sell  well  at  the  bakeries .  Take 
deep  dishes  such  as  are  used  to  dish  up 
vegetables  in  at  dinner,  but  about  6  or 
7  inch  size,  nearly  fill  with  any  kind  of 
berries  in  season,  cover  with  sufficient 
sugar  and  put  on  a  thin  top  crust  of  good 
short  paste.  Cut  around  the  edges, 
make  a  small  hole  in  the  middle  of  the 
lid.  Bake  about  15  minutes.  There  is 
no  bottom  crust  and  all  the  fruit  juice  is 
retained  in  full  flavor. 

Cost  of  material — crust  each  IJ 
cents,  berries  average  including  straw- 
berries 4c.     Sell  at  10c  each. 


304— Iced  Coffee. 

Served  in  a  tall  glass  like  lemonade, 
with  two  straws  and  shaved  ice  in  it.  . 
For  a  single  glass  take 
2  large  teaspoons  powdered  sugar. 


90 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


4  tablespoons  rich  milk. 

A  small  cap  coffee. 

Some  shaved  ice. 

Shake  up  with  a  tin  punch  mixer  over 
the  glass  (bar-keepers  fashion)  and  serve 
with  the  foam  on  top.  The  foaming  ap- 
pearance may  be  increased  by  one  raw 
egg  to  a  pint  beaten  up  in  the  milk  that 
is  used,  and  gives  it  a  cream  color. 

Cost  of  material — 2  cents  per  glass. 


OYSTER  BAY. 


305— Raw  Oysters— Half  Shell. 

Open  the  oysters  as  they  are  called 
for,  loosen  trom  the  shell,  serve  in  the 
best  shell  with  as  much  of  their  own 
liquor  as  can  be  saved,  ranged  on  a  plate 
with  half  a  lemon  in  the  center.  Shred 
cabbage,  crackers,  butter  and  table  sau- 
ces go  free. 

306— Raw  Oysters— Bulk. 

''Counts'*  are  the  largest— same  thing 
as  "Saddle  Rocks."  "Selects"  next  lar- 
gest. Serve  a  dozen  on  the  plate.  Lem- 
on, if  called  for,  in  a  small  glass  dish  at 
the  side. 

Cost — ^accord mg  to  the  price  of  oys- 
ters— with  oysters  'at  $1,00  per  100 — 
oysters  12,  lemon  J,  crackers  1,  butter 
2,  tomato  ketchup  etc.,  IJ;  17  cents  a 
dozen.  Small  oysters  only  half  the 
price. 

307— Oyster   Stei 

It  is  a  dozen  medium  oysters  with  a 
pint  or  less  of  milk  and  perhaps  a  small 
allowance  of  butter;  with  crackers,  but- 
ter and  pickles  on  the  table.  Cook  the 
oysters  and  milk  in  separate  saucepans. 
Dip  the  oysters  from  the  saucepan   into 


the  bowl,  add  a  ladleful  of  milk  and  a 
small  piece  of  fresh  butter.  Serve  crack- 
ers, butter  and  shred  cabbage  separately 
with  the  stew. 


Cost  of  material — oysters  7,  milk  3, 
table  extras  4;  14  cents. 

Note — Oysters  do  not  always  cu'-dle 
the  milk  when  boiled  in  it,  but  there  is 
always  a  danger  that  they  may,  so  the 
rule  is  not  to  run  any  risk.  Besides,  to 
cook  the  oysters  in  the  milk  although 
good  for  flavor,  always  makes  a  dingy 
looking  stew  with  a  scum  on  top.  To 
obtain  the  best  quality  and  appearance 
boil  some  oyster  liquor  separately  and 
keep  it  ready  for  orders,  Aa  it  reaches 
boiling  point  the  scum  on  top  can  be 
skimmed  off  and  after  that  pour  it 
through  a  fine  strainer  into  a  clean  sauce- 
pan, and  you  have  the  oyster  essence 
clear  and  ready  for  use  without  detri- 
ment to  the  appearances. 

308— Plain  Stew. 


The  oysters  cooked  as  above  with 
the  liquor  only  served  with  them,  and 
no  milk. 


Note — It  is  with  cooking  an  oyster  as 
with  cooking  an  egg.  It  may  be  either 
soft  boiled  or  hard  boiled,  only  there 
is  a  difference  that  an  oyster  boiled  hard 
is  spoiled.  To  cook  oysters  for  stews 
set  some  of  the  liquor  that  has  been  pre- 
viously boiled  and  strained  as  directed 
above,  on  the  lange  in  a  little  saucepan 
and  drop  in  the  oysters  with  a  fork.  Add 
a  pinch  of  salt  and  pepper,  shake  them 
back  and  forth  while  heating  and  as  soon 
as  the  liquor  fairiy  boils  they  are  done. 
Time  about  3  minutes  for  one  stew. 


309— Dry  Stew. 


The  same  as  plain  stew  but  served 
without  the  liquor.  Have  a  spoonful  of 
fresh  butter  ready  melted  at  a  conven- 
ient place  and  pour  it  to  the  oysters  in 
the  bowl  after  they  have  been  dipped  up 
out  of  their  liquor  with  a  strainer. 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT. 


91 


310— Boston  Fancy  Stew. 

Make  a  milk  stew  in  the  same  style, 
and  a  thin  slice  of  battered  toast  Use 
a  broad  and  shallow  bowl.  Put  the 
buttered  toast  in  the  bowl,  dish  the  oys- 
ters (soft  cooked)  on  the  toast  and  pour 
the  liquor  in  at  the  side,  enough  to  make 
it  float. 


Cost  of  material — 12  large  oysters  12, 
milk  4,  buttered  toast  1,  table  extras  3; 
20  cents. 


311— Box  Stew. 


The  richest  stew  that  can  be  made 
and  with  the  very  largest  oysters,  called 
Fulton  Market  box  oysters. 

Prepare  a  square  of  buttered  toast  the 
same  as  for  Boston  fancy  and  put  it 
in  a  hot  bowl.  Take  a  bastingspoon  of 
cream  and  put  it  into  a  bastingspoon  of 
dear  oyster  liquor  that  has  been  boiled 
before,  and  add  an  ounce  of  best  butler. 
Cook  the  oysters  in  another  saucepaiL 
When  soft  done  dish  them  on  the  toast 
in  the  bowl  and  pour  the  cream  liquor 
around. 


Cost  of  material — 12  extra  fine  oys- 
ters 24,  cream  2,  butter  and  toast  4, 
table  extras,  lemon  etc.,  5;  35  cents. 
Sells  at  60  cents. 


312— Oysters  Sawteed  In  Butter. 

Not  necessary  to  use  eggs.  Drop  the 
oysters  into  a  plate  of  cracker  meal  and 
give  them  a  good  coating.  Be  careful  not 
to  rub  it  oflP  as  it  will  not  stick  a  second 
time  Drop  an  ounce  of  butter  in  the 
frying  pan,  and  when  melted  lay  in  the 
oysters  close  together.  Cook  over  a 
brisk  fire  to  get  brown  on  one  side  with- 
out hardening  them.  Lay  a  small  plate 
upside  down  on  the  oysters,  turn  over 
the  pan,  then  slide  the  cake  of  oysters 
from  the  plate  into  the  pan  again  without 
letting  them  break  apart,  and  brown  the 
other  side.  Serve  on  the  plate  set  in 
another  plate.  Ornament  with  lemon 
and   parsley.     There    are   oval  shaped 


pans  for  such  saviees  as  this,  to  be  in 
shape  for  a  platter. 

Cost  of  material — 12  medium  oysters 
7,  butter  2,  cracker  meal  1,  lemon  and 
parsley  garnish  1,  table  extras  4,  15 
cents. 

313— Fried  Oysters.     Single  Breaded« 

Dry  the  oysters  by  pressing  with  a 
napkin.  Drop  them  into  beaten  egg,  in 
which  is  a  little  salt,  and  out  of  that 
into  craker  meal.  Give  them  a  good 
coating  by  pressing,  with  care  not  to 
rub,  or  leave  a  bare  place  for  the  grease 
to  get  in.  Drop  them  singly  into  a  fry- 
ing pan  of  hot  lard .  Fry  brown  in  2  or 
3  minutes.  Dish  neatly  in  tbe  middle 
of  a  hot  platter  with  a  piece  of  lemon 
and  sprigs  of  parsley 

Cost  of  material — oysters  12,  eggs  3, 
meal  1,  lard  to  fry  2,  lemon  and  parsley 
garnish  1,  table  extras  4;  23  cents. 

Note — The  way  of  frying  oysters  suc- 
cessfully without  the  use  of  eggs  has  been 
fully  explained  in  a  former  receipt.  It 
needs  more  care  than  when  eggs  are  used, 
but  may  effect  a  great  saving  in  the 
season  when  eggs  are  dearest.  Even 
with  that  fried  oysters  are  expensive 
over  the  other  methods  of  cooking  be- 
cause of  the  lard  destroyed.  At  the 
end  of  a  meal  the  craker  sediment  wiU 
have  made  the  lard  used  dark  and  unfit 
for  further  use,  and  if  clarified  of  that 
there  still  remains  a  sort  of  mucilage 
from  the  oysters  that  makes  the  lard  boil 
over  like  butter  melting,  and  almost  use- 
less. Consequently  the  charge  for  fries 
is,  and  has  to  be,  higher  than  for  other 
styles. 

314 — Fried  Oysters.  Double  Breaded 

Out  of  their  own  liquor  into  cracker- 
meal,  coat  well,  dip  in  beaten  eg^  and* 
then  in  cracker-meal  again.  Fry  4  or 
5  minutes.  Oysters  look  twice  as  large 
as  they  really  are,  when  double  breaded. 

Cost. — ^They  take  up  more  e^^  but 
the  expense  is  made  up  in  the  apparent 


92 


SAN  FBANGISGO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


increase  in  the  size,  and  when  they  are 
carefully  cooked  of  a  light  color  and 
crisp  the  double  breading  ia  preferred  by 
most  customers. 


315— Broiled  Oysters,  Bread-Crumbed 


The  original  meaning  of  breading  has 
nearly  been  forgotten,  so  much  better  for 
most  purposes  is  the  meal  of  crushed  and 
sifted  crackers  than  grated  dry  bread. 
But  the  Bmallness  of  the  demand  for 
breaded  oysters  broiled — a  way  that  over 
the  w  iter  is  considered  most  delicate — is 
procf  that  cracker-meal  is  not  the  thing 
for  it. 

Oysters  breaded  in  cracker-meal,  then 
broiled,  unless  they  are  deluged  with 
butter,  are  more  like  discolored  pieces  of 
buckskin  than  anything  eatable. 

Grate  a  stale  loaf  of  bread  or  else 
mince  the  thin  slices  extremely  fine  with 
a  knife.  Shake  the  oysters  about  in  a 
little  beaten  egg,  dip  them  in  the  bread 
crumbs  and  gently  press  a  coating  on 
Kith  sides.  It  is  better  to  let  them  lie 
in  the  crumbs  awhile  if  there  is  time . 

Brush  the  wire  oyster  broiler  with  a 
brush  dipped  in  butter,place  the  oysters, 
shut  down  the  other  side  and  as  soon  as 
the  egg  is  set  with  the  heat  of  the  bright 
coals  baste  the  oysters  on  both  sides 
with  the  same  brush  in  butter.  Get  a 
toast-brown  on  both  sides  without  cook- 
ing the  oysters  too  much.  Serve  on  a 
dish  the  same  as  tried  oysters,  with  a 
piece  of  lemon. 


Cost  of  material— oysters  12,  bread 
1,  egg  2,  butter  3,  table  extras  4:  22 
cents. 

Note. — Where  silver-plated  griddles 
and  sdver  wire   broilers   are    used    it  is 

Practicable  to  dispense  with  the  butter 
,  asting  altogether,  and  prevent  sticking 
by  rubbing  the  bars  with  chalk  Some 
of  the  greatest  re«^tauranis  of  the  two 
continents  have  had  a  sort  of  specialty 
in  this  line,  and  probably  proved  not 
only  the  desirableness  but  the  real  econ- 
omy of  the  mode. 


316— -Plain  Broiled  Oysters  on  Toast. 


Take  ihe  largest  oysters  >btainable. 
Brush  the  wire  oyster  broiler  with  soft- 
ened butter,  lay  in  the  oysters  and  broil 
over  a  hot  fire  2  or  3  minutes,  basting 
once  on  each  side  with  the  butter  brush. 
Dish  side  by  side  on  one  long  slice  of 
buttered  toast  in  a  dish.  Garnish  with 
lemon  and  parsley. 

Cost. — Largest  oysters  one  dozen 
24,  butter  2,  toast  1,  garnish  3,  table 
extras  6;  35  cents — Sells  at  50c,  or  ac- 
cording to  grade  of  oysters.  There  is 
no  satisfaction  in  plain  broiling  small 
oysters. 

317— Oysters  Broiled  in  Bacon. 


Dredge  some  large  oysters  with  pep- 
per and  squeeze  the  juice  of  a  lemon 
over  them. 

Cut  large  slices  of  fat  bacon  as  thin  as 
possible .  Roll  up  two  oysters  together 
in  each  slice,  run  a  skewer  through  diag- 
onally and  put  six  such  rolls  on  each 
skewer  crowded  together  to  allow  for 
shrinkage.  Bake  in  the  top  of  the  oven 
for  a  few  minutes,  the  skewers  resting 
on  the  edge  of  a  pan  with  the  oysters 
raised  above  the  drippings.  Finish  on 
the  broiler.  Serve  on  the  skewers  on 
buttered  toast  in  a  dieh,  and  if  common 
skewers  are  used  slip  a  ring  of  fringed 
paper  on  the  end. 

Cost  of  material — 12  large  oysters 
15,  lib  bacon  15,  toast  2,  lemon  2,  table 
extras  and  potatoes  6;  40  cents. 


318— Steamed   Oysters.    Shells, 


Scrub  the  oysters  clean  in  water. 
Place  the  deep  shell  side  down  in  the 
steamer  and  steam  them  about  5  min- 
utes. Take  off  the  top  shell  and  save 
as  much  of  the  liquor  as  possible  with 
the  oyster  in  ihe  lower  one.  Serve  on  a 
platter  without  seasoning  or  any  addition, 
except  lemon  in  quarters. 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT. 


93 


319~0ysters— Sheli  Roast. 

A  bright  and  glowing  charcoal  fire  is 
requisite  for  this.  The  oyster  ranges 
are  nearly  all  broiler  and  the  bars  are 
near  the  coals.  Scrub  the  dirt  from  the 
ehells  of  the  oysiers  before  cooking,  with 
a  brush  in  water.  Lay  them  on  the 
broiler,  flat  side  down,  and  endeavor  to 
get  the  shell  so  hot  as  to  slightljr  color 
the  oyster.  When  the  shell  begins  to 
open  turn  it  over.  Dish  up  in  the  deep 
shell,  the  other  removed  entirely,  and  if 
too  dry  pour  over  each  one  a  small  spoon- 
ful of  hot  oyster  liquor  and  butter  mixed. 
Serve  a  dozen  on  a  platter,  a  half  on  a 
fish  plate,  with  lemon. 

Cost — 12  oysters  12,  lemon  1,  ta  »le 
extras  4;  17  cents. 

320— Oysters— Fancy  Roast. 

Cut  two  slices  of  butterea  toast  to  fit 
a  medium  sized  platter,  when  placed  end 
to  end,  or  cut  fancy  shapes  of  toast  that 
when  placed  together  will  form  a  star 
shape, 

Roast  the  oysters  in  the  shells.  Take 
them  oHt  when  done  and  place  them  on 
the  toast  and  pour  some  hot  oyster  liquor 
mixed  with  cream  over  the  toast  in  the 
dish.     Garnish  with  parsley. 

Cost — oysters  12,  toast  2,  cream  2, 
table  extras  and  garnishing  4;  20  cents. 

3?1— Oysters— Pan  Roast. 

An  imitation  of  the  shell  roast. 

1.  Put  12  or  13  oysters  in  a  bright 
pie  pan,  with  their  liquor.  Dredge  with 
salt  and  pepper  very  sparingly.  Drop 
in  some  small  lumps  of  butter  and  bake 
on  the  top  shelf  of  a  hot  oveu  from  3  to 
5  minutes.  Slide  them  right  side  up 
into  a  hot  dish,  and  garnish  with  1  or  2 
quarters  of  lemon. 

2.  A  verj  common  way  in  restau- 
rants is  to  merely  stew  the  oysters  in  a 
bright  tin  pan  holding  only  about  a 
pint,  slightly  season,  and  serve  them  in 
the  same  pan  set  in  a  plate.  And,  fur- 
ther,  in  the  same    style  neat  lids   are 


used  that  fit  the  pans,  to  be  placed  when 
the  oysters  are  done  and  sent  in  so. 
There  is  no  difference,  except  in  the  im- 
agination, betwixt  that   and  a  dry  stew. 


322— Oysters  in  a  Loaf. 


Take  a  loaf  that  has  been  baked  in  a 
tm  mold,  such  as  the  bakers  sell;  cut  oflf 
the  top  crust  and  lay  it  aside,  remove 
most  of  the  inside  crumb,  then  cut  the 
edge  mto  ornamental  notches  or  saw  tooth 
fashion  all  around.  Spread  a  little  soft 
butter  inside  with  the  back  of  a  spoon 
and  set  the  loaf  in  the  oven  to  toast.  The 
top  generally  gets  browned  enough  by 
the  time  the  butter  inside  is  hot  Make 
an  oyster  stew  in  the  usual  way  but 
dredge  in  a  few  fine  bread  crumbs  to 
partially  thicken  it.  Pour  into  the  hot 
crisped  loaf  on  a  dish,  no  cover. 


323— Scalloped  Oysters. 

In  a  small  deep  dish  or  pan.  Mince 
some  slices  of  good  bread  extremely  fine 
with  your  large  knife  and  mix  in  about 
a  third  as  much  cracker  meal.  Cover 
the  bottom  of  the  individual  dish  with 
these  mixed  crumbs,  and  on  them  lay 
a  dozen  oysters.  Dredge  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  drop  butter  in  small  bits. 
Cover  thinly  with  crumbs.  Have  it 
slightly  rounded  up  in  the  middle. 
Baie  on  the  middle  shelf  one  minute,  or 
until  a  light  toa^^t  brown,  then  draw  it 
to  the  front  and  baste  the  top  with  oys- 
ter liquor  hot  and  with  a  little  butter 
melted  in  it. 

Bake  a  few  minutes.  The  object  is  to 
get  a  good  bake  on  top  without  cooking 
the  oysters  too  hard.  Serve  in  the  same 
dish  set  in  another  one. 


Cost  of  material — oysters  12,  bread 
1,  butter  2,  table  extras  4,  19  cents. 

Note. — The  appearance  is  much  im- 
proved if  the  oysters  are  scalloped  in 
metal  shells  made  for  the  purpose,  either 
stamped  heavy  tin  or  silver  plated. 
Proceed  the  same  as  with  dishes. 


94 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  OAZETLES 


324— Scalloped  Oysters  on  Half  Shell. 

Oyster  shells  of  good  shape  have  to  be 
selected  and  kept  for  the  purpose.  One 
large  or  two  small  oysters  in  each  may 
be  Bcall<»ped  this  way.  Dredge  fine 
bread  crumbs  in  the  shell,  put  in  the 
oyster,  cover  with  crumbs  and  bake  set 
in  a  baking  pan  on  the  top  shelf.  When 
lightly  browned  moisten  the  tops  with 
melted  fresh  butter  and  seasoned  oys- 
ter liquor.  Serve  the  moment  they 
are  done,  or  the  hot  shells  will  make  the 
oysters  cook  too  much. 

There  is  another  way  of  scalloping 
them  in  sauce  as  directed  for  clams. 


325— Scalloped  Oysters  for  a  Party. 

Baked  on  a  platter  of  a  size  according 
to  number. 

Put  a  border  of  mashed  potato  forced 
like  a  thick  cord  through  a  paper  comet 
all  around  the  inner  rim  of  the  platter  to 
hold  in  the  liquor.  The  inside  scooped 
out  of  baked  potatoes  is  often  the  avail- 
able thing  for  this. 

Cover  the  bottom  of  the  dish  with 
finely  minced  or  grated  bread  crumbs. 
Scald  the  oysters  slightly  in  a  saucepan 
and  then  place  them  close  together  on 
the  layer  of  crumbs.  Continue  until  the 
dish  is  piled  up  in  the  middle  and 
rounded,  with  the  butter,  salt  and  pep- 
per as  in  the  precedioej  receipt,  then  mix 
the  oyster  liquor  with  a  little  milk  and 
Btram  over  the  top.  Wipe  the  edges  of 
the  dish  dry.  Bake  to  get  a  quick 
brown  on  top,  on  the  top  shelf  of  the 
oven. 

Cost  of  material — each  dish  of  one 
dozen  18  or  20  cents. 


326— Scalloped  Oysters  for  Hotel 
Dinner. 


The  thing  to  be  guarded  a'gainst  is 
the  getting  it  all  bread  and  dry  and  hard 
and  for  that  reason  uneatable  These 
proportions  make  it  right. 

8  dozen  oysters  and  their  liquor. 

12  ounces  2 — cups  butter. 


2  pound  fine  bread  and  cracker  crumbs 
mixed. 

1  pint  milk.     Pepper  and  salt. 

Use  a  shallow  4-quart  milk  pan. 
Spread  a  little  of  the  butter  all  over  the 
bottom  and  cover  that  with  a  layer  of  the 
mixed  bread  crumbs. 

Scald  the  oysters  in  their  liquor  just 
enough  to  make  them  shrink  a  little  and 
place  half  of  them  close  together  on  the 
layer  of  crumbs.  Then  more  crumbs, 
butter  dropped  about  in  small  pieces, 
pepper  and  salt;  then  the  rest  of  the  oys- 
ters and  cover  with  the  remaining  bread 
crumbs  and  butter.  Mix  the  milk  with 
the  oyster  liquor,  strain  into  the  pan, 
moistening  the  top  all  over.  Bake  from 
20  to  30  minutes. 

Cost  of  material — with  oysters  at  $1, 
per  100— $1,40  for  16  dishes,  or  about 
9  cents  per  plate. 

327— Oyster  Patties— White. 


The  meaning  is  that  the  oysters  are 
in  a  white  sauce,  for  they  may  be  either 
white,  yellow,  or  brown.  The  same  care 
that  is  needed  to  make  a  good  stew  ia 
necessary  also  to  make  patties  delicious, 
that  is,  not  to  cook  the  oysters  long  be- 
Ibre  they  are  wanted  and  not  to  let  them 
get  done  too  much .  If  the  rich  liquor  of 
cream  or  milk  and  butter  described  for 
the  "box  stew"  were  thickened  with  flour 
just  to  the  right  point,  then  the  oysters 
lightly  cooked  in  another  saucepan,  dip- 
ped up  and  put  into  the  sauce  the.  result 
would  be  reached  of  preparing  the  oys 
ters  to  fill  any  kind  of  patty  cases  with 
the  white  preparation.  If  thickened  by 
adding  raw  yolks  of  eggs  it  makes  the 
yellow  sauce,  if  with  butter  and  flour 
baked  brown  together  and  the  oysters 
lightly  cooked ,  stirred  in  at  last  it  makes 
the  light  brown  kind.  To  begin  at  the 
beginning  take  for  12  patties. 

1  cupful  of  oysters. 

1  cup  milk. 

Butter  size  of  a  guinea  t^^, 

1  taplespooD  flour. 


COOKING  FOR    PROFIT. 


96 


Cayenne,  salt. 

1  teaspoon  minced  parsley. 

1  pound  of  puflf  paste. 

Make  the  puff  paste  shells  first  by  roll- 
ing out  to  a  quarter  inch  thickness,  cut- 
ting out  with  an  oval  cutter  and  marking 
the  inside  lid,  with  a  smaller  cutter  as 
previously  directed  for  cherry  tartlets, 
bake  carefully  in  a  brisk  oven  and  when 
done  lift  out  the  center  with  a  knife 
point. 

Set  the  oystrrs  over  the  fire  to  scald 
in  their  own  liquor,  shake  about  until 
they  are  set,  but  take  off  before  they 
boil. 

Mix  the  butter  and  flour  together  in  a 
saucepan  big  enough  to  hold  all  the  rest, 
and  when  it  bubbles  up  on  the  range  be- 
gin stirring  in  the  milk,  thus  making  a 
thick  white  sauce.  Let  it  boil  up,  etir- 
rmg  constantly.  Season  with  cayenne 
and  salt  Take  the  oysters  out  of  their 
liquor  and  put  them  in  white  sauce,  and 
then  stir  in  a  little  chopped  parsley.  Fill 
the  patties,  put  on  the  lids  and  serve. 


Cost  of  material— oysters  10,  milk  1, 
butter  2,  seasonings  1,  puff  paste  10; 
24  cents,  or  2  cents  each. 

328— Oyster    Patties— Ye  How. 

Read  the  foregoing  directions.  When 
the  thick  creaan  sauce  has  been  made 
beat  up  the  yolk  of  an  q^^  with  a  spoon- 
ful of  clear  oyster  liquor  and  stir  it  in, 
and  add  the  juice  of  a  quarter  of  a  lemon. 

329— Oyster    Patties— Bi  own. 

Put  an  ounce  of  butter  and  an  ounce 
of  flour  together  in  a  small  saucepan  or 
pint  cup  and  stir  them  over  the  fire  until 
they  are  light  brown,  like  the  crust  of  a 
well  baked  loaf  of  bread  in  color,  or  else, 
if  time  cannot  be  epared  to  continue  the 
stirring,  set  it  in  the  oven,  for  none  of  it 
should  be  burnt  black.  When  done  stir 
in  gradually  ^  cup  oyster  liqnor  and  about 
half  that  quantity  of  milk,  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  season,  and  at  last  a  table- 
spoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies.  Pass 
the    sauce    through   a   gravy    strainer. 


Scald  the  oysters  separately  and  put 
them  in  the  brown  sauce.  Use  to  fill 
the  vol-aw-vcrvt  patty  cases  ot  the  forej 
going  receipts. 

Note. — The  exercise  of  judgment  is 
required  to  have  the  sauces  for  such  pat- 
ties as  are  made  by  filling  pastry  shells 
as  above  of  just  the  right  thickness  not  to 
run  out  and  leave  the  oysters  bare  and 
dry  inside,  and  yet  not  so  thick  as  to 
make  the  mixture  a  lump  of  paste.  The 
addition  of  the  juicy  oysters  to  the  sauce 
often  thins  it  down  to  a  degree  that  is  a 
source  of  disappointment  to  an  inex- 
perienced person.  Moreover,  the  addi- 
tion of  yolks  of  eggs  to  the  yellow  kind 
will  not  thicken  tliem  unless  the  boiling 
be  stopped  immediately  after. 

330— Oyster  Patties.  Household  Style. 

Provide  12  deep  tin  patty  pans  hold- 
ing each  about  -J  cup; 

1  cupful  oysters. 

1  cup  milk 

1  large  tablespoon  flour. 

Butter  size  of  a  walnut. 

Pepper  and  salt. 

1  pound  short  pie  paste. 

Boil  the  milk,  thicken  it  with  the 
flour  mixed  up  with  a  little  milk  cold, 
add  a  little  salt  and  the  butter  and  beat 
until  the  butter  is  melted. 

RoU  out  the  common  pie  paste  very 
thin,  cut  out  with  a  large  biscuit  cutter 
and  line  the  patty  pans,  put  a  few  raw 
oysters  in  each,  sprinkle  with  pepper 
and  salt,  nearly  fill  with  the  thick  white 
sauce  previously  made,  cut  out  more 
flats  from  the  sheet  of  paste  and  put 
them  on  as  lids.  Brush  over  with 
mixed  yolk  of  e£g  and  water  and  bake. 
Serve  hot  with  a  sprig  of  parsley  on  top 
for  ornament. 

Cost  of  material — from  IJ  to  2  cents 
each,  according  to  size  and  richness. 

331— Oyster   Soup— Common    Lunch. 

To  make  to  order  have  ready  some 
boiling  milk  and  serve  in  a  bowl. 


96 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


1  pint  milk. 

6  oyetera  scalded  in  their  own  liquor, 
and  the  liquor  strained  into  the  bowl 
first  Crackers  and  table  sauces  go 
free.     Price  in  restanrants  15c. 

Cost  of  materifil — Oysters  5,  milk  3, 
table  extras  3;  11  cents. 

332— Oyster  Soup— Good  Hotel 

1  quart  "solid  meat**  oysters. 
1  quart  clear  soup  stock. 
1  qoait.  railk. 
Butter  size  of  an  egg. 

1  teaspoon  each  of  salt  and  pepper. 

2  heaping  tablespoons  crushed  oyster 
crackers. 

The  stock  is  used  on  the  principle  that 
the  liquor  that  meat  has  been  boiled  in 
is  better  than  water.  It  should  be  chick- 
en or  veal  broth  slightly  seasoned  with 
celery  and  parsley  and  other  vegetables, 
and  should  be  taken  from  the  top,  clear 
without  sediment. 

The  things  to  be  guarded  against  are, 
not  to  get  the  milk  curdled  by  boiling  it 
with  the  oysters,  and  to  avoid  having 
the  scum  from  the  oyster  liquor  floating 
on  top  of  the  soup.  To  get  out  of  the 
trouble  shiftless  cooks  sometimes  throw 
the  liquor  away  and  wash  off  the  oysters; 
ot  course  that  makes  the  soup  poor. 

Half  an  hour  before  dinner  time  set 
the  quart  of  stock  on  the  range  in  one 
saucepan  and  the  milk  in  another.  Pour 
the  oysters  into  a  colander  set  in  another 
saucepan  on  the  table  and  when  the 
soup  stock  boils  pour  a  few  ladlefuls  into 
the  oysters,  stir  them  and  let  them  drain. 
Then  set  the  oyster  liquor  thus  ob 
tained  over  the  fire,  when  it  boils  skim  it, 
then  strain  it  into  the  soup  stock.  Next 
throw  in  the  oysters  and  when  they  be- 
gin to  shrink,  showing  they  are  fairly 
hot  through  take  the  vessel  from  the  fire. 
Stir  in  the  rolled  crackers,  (not  cracker 
meal  from  the  barrel,)  the  salt,  pepper 
and  butter,  then  at  last  add  the  boding 
milk  and  pour  the  soup  into  the  tureen. 
Sprinkle  a  little  chopped  parsley  over 
the  top. 


Cost  of  material — oysters  40,  stock 
4,  milk  8.  butter  5,  seasonings  2;  59 
cents  for  3  quarts  or  12  large  plates,  or 
5c  per  plate.  It  should  be  observed  in 
comparing  cost  that  the  previous  receipt 
for  the  common  lunch  soup  of  the  oyster 
houses  supposes  a  pint  or  more  to  each 
person  with  crackers  etc.,  on  the  table, 
A  large  soup  plate  is  only  half  a  pint 

333— Oyster  Soup— French  Way 

This  is  for  25  or  30  persons  at  a  res- 
taurant party,  or  hotel  dinner  for  50. 

2  quarts  of  oysters — or  3  cans. 
4  quarts  of  seasoned  fish  stock. 
1  quart  French  white  wine. 

3  or  4  anchovies. 
18  yolks  of  eggs. 
1  pint  of  cream. 

Salt,  pepper,  and  white  butter-and- 
flour  thickening. 

Make  the  fish  stock  by  boiling  a  5 
pound  fish,  or  some  eels,  in  plain  broth, 
with  a  head  of  celery,  a  handful  or  two 
of  parsely,  salt,  white  pepper,  the  wine 
and  anchovies.  While  it  is  boiling  pour 
a  few  ladlefuls  into  the  oysters  and  then 
drain  them  in  a  colander  and  add  the 
liquor  to  the  stock.  When  the  fish  has 
boiled  slowly  about  three  quarters  of  an 
hour  strain  off  the  ptock  into  another  ket- 
tle, add  a  little  thickening,  (roita:,)  let  it 
boil  and  skim  it;  put  in  the  oysters  and 
while  they  are  nearing  the  boiling  point 
again  beat  the  yolks  and  the  pint  of 
cream  together  and  stir  them  in.  Draw 
the  kettle  to  the  side  of  the  range  and 
watch  till  the  s^up  becomes  smooth  and 
creamy  but  take  care  not  to  let  it  boU. 
Taste  for  seasoning. 

Cost  of  material — oysters  $1,50,  fish 
stock  25,  wine  50.  yolks  25,  cream  15, 
seasonings  5;  $2,70,  or  about  10  or  12 
cents  per  plate. 

334 — Brown  Oyster  Soup. 

Take  the  preceding  receipt  for  quanti- 
ties. While  the  fish  stock  is  in  prepa- 
ration fry  a  small  carrot,  turnip  and  a 
piece  of  onion,  all  chopped  small,   in  a 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT. 


97 


little  butter  till  brown,  then  put  them  in 
the  boiling  etock  and  let  them  cook  in 
it   Bome  time  longer. 

Make  some  brown  butter  thickening 
(roux)  by  stirring  together  a  cupful  of 
butter  and  the  same  of  flour  in  a  frying 
pan  and  letting  it  bake  brown  in  the 
oven. 

Strain  off  the  fish  slock  into  another 
kettle  on  the  fire.  Add  the  brown  thick- 
ening, stirring  lest  it  sink  and  bum  on 
the  bottom.  Add  the  oyster  liquor  and 
draw  the  soup  to  the  side  of  the  range 
to  slowly  boil  and  clear  itself  by  throw- 
ing up  scum.  Put  in  (he  juice  of  a 
lemon  mixed  with  a  little  cold  water 
and  skim  when  the  soup  boils  up  again. 
A  few  minutes  before  dinner  time  put 
the  oyster?  into  the  soup  and  take  off  as 
soon  as  i(  ynce  more  begins  to  boil.  If 
no  anchovies  have  been  us«id  in  the  fish 
stock  to  heighten  the  flavor  a  spoonful 
of  essence  of  anchovies  may  be  added 
to  the  finished  soup.  Season  with  salt 
and  cayenne. 

Cost  of  material — oysters  $1,50,  fish 
stock  25  butter  for  browning  15,  flour 
1,  lemon  2,  seasonings  5;  $1,98  if  made 
without  wine  or  $2,50  with  wine,  for  25 
or  30  plates,  or  anywhere  from  6  to  10 
cents  per  plate. 

335-Clams  Raw— Half  Shell. 

Wash  the  clams  in  water  using  a 
brush,  and  wipe  dry.  Open  and  loosen 
the  clams  from  both  shells.  Serve  a 
dozen  on  a  plate  or  dish  with  half  a  lem- 
on in  the  center.  Oyster  crackers,  but- 
ter and  a  dish  of  finely  shred  cabbage  at 
the  side, 

Selung  price,  generally  the  same  as 
oysters. 

Small  or  **  Little  Neck"  clams  only  are 
served  raw. 

336— Clam   Stew. 

Make  as  directed  for  oyster  stew.  The 
smallest  clams  are  the  best  for  the  pur- 
pose. If  the  large  kind  are  used  cut 
them  in  pieces  after  trimming  and  beard- 
ing. 


337— Clams— Shell   Roast. 


Same  as  oysters. 


338— Scalloped  Clams— Half  Shell. 

Prepare  the  clams  precisely  as  di- 
rected for  oysters  in  patties,  by  making 
a  white  sauce  of  half  clam  liquor  and 
half  milk  thickened  and  seasoned .  Pat 
in  the  scalded  clams.  Then  put  a  spoon- 
ful, or  about  two  clams  with  the  thick 
sauce  adhering  into  eaeh  clam  shell. 
Dredge  cracker  meal  over  the  top  and 
bake  on  the  top  shelf  in  a  hot  oven. 
Moisten  the  tops  with  the  back  of  a 
spoon  dipped  in  melted  butter.  Wlien 
brown  serve.  About  two  to  a  dish  for 
hotel  dinners,  or  by  the  dozen  at  a  res- 
taurant 


Cost — ^About  the  same  as  scalloped 
oysters. 

339— Scalloped  Clams— Party  Dinner. 

Take  the  clams  out  of  the  shells  and 
scald  them  slightly  in  their  own  liquor. 
Replace  them  in  the  half  shell,  pepper 
and  salt,  and  then  cover  with  fine  bread 
crumbs,  and  bake  quickly.  Make  a  lit- 
tle white  sauce  of  the  clam  liquor  mixed 
with  cream  and  a  little  butter  and  spoon- 
ful.of  flour  thickening,  and  pour  a  spoon- 
ful of  it  over  the  clam  in  the  shell  when 
it  has  become  browned.  Serve  same  as 
oysters,  on  a  small  fish  plate,  with  a 
piece  of  lemon. 

340— Fricasseed  Clams  on  Toast. 

12  large  thin  slices  of  buttered  toast. 
■k  dozen  clams  and  their  liquor. 
6  yolks  of  eggs. 

1  pint  milk. 

2  ounces  butter. 
1  ounce  flour. 

1  lemon,  cayenne,  salt. 

Boil  the  milk.  Take  the  clams  from 
their  shells  and  scald  in  their  own  liquor, 
drain  them  from  it  and  cut  them  in 
pieces.  Strain  the  clam  liquor  into  the 
milk,  add  a  spoonful   of  thickening,  the 


98 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


hotter,  and  the  yolks  slightly  beaten, 
and  salt  and  cayenne  to  taste.  Squeeze 
in  the  juice  of  the  lemon.  Then  put  in 
the  cut  clams.  Dish  spoonfuls  on  toast 
cut  in  neat  shapes,  or  on  fried  crusts. 

Cost  of  material — clams  35,  yolks  6, 
milk  4,  butter  4,  lemon  and  seasonings 
3,  buttered  toast  8;  60  cents  for  12  dish- 
es, or  5  cents  per  dish — or  depending  rn 
price  of  clams. 

Note. — The  foregoing  dish  can  be 
made  cheaper  if  desired  by  several  little 
omissions,  and  the  breakfast  or  lunch 
dishes  contemplated  will  be  large  enough 
for  two  at  dinner  where  it  is  only  a  side 
dish. 


341— Clam  Patties. 


The  same  as  oyster  patties,  or,  with 
the  clams  prepared  as  for  scalloped  or 
for  fricasseed  clams  on  toast  put  into 
pastry  shells  instead. 


342— Soft  Shell  Clams   Fried. 


This  is  a  large  kind  of  clam  with  a 
brittle  shell.  Cut  off  the  leathery  dark 
portion  that  projects  from  the  shell  and 
remove  with  knife  and  fingers  the  beard 
and  string  from  the  inside.  This  leaves 
Ihe  clam  in  the  ring  shape  in  which  they 
come  to  market  sometimes  strung  on 
twine.  Throw  them  as  they  are  taken 
out  of  the  shell  into  a  pan  of  cold  water 
When  wanted  dry  them  between  two 
towles,  dip  in  beaten  egg  with  a  little 
water  in  it  and  then  in  cracker  meal  and 
fry  in  hot  lard  the  same  as  oysters.  Drain 
in  a  colander.  Serve  piled  along  the 
middle  of  a  large  dish  with  a  quartered 
lemon  and  curled  parsley  for  garnish. 

'Cost  of  material — Clams  at  $1,50  per 
100  15c,  eggb  4,  cracker  meal  2,  lard  to 
fry  4,  lemon  2,  table  extras  3;  30  cents 
per  dozen.     [Jsual  charge  60  cents. 

Note. — Soft  shell  clams  on  account  of 
their  large  size  and  open  shape  when 
cooked  as  above  make  a  large  and  plen- 


tiful di8h,and  a  very  popular  one.  One- 
third  as  many  are  sufficient  for  an  ordinary 
breakfast  dish  for  one  person.  The  lard 
required  is  not  all  used  but  allowance 
has  to  be  made  for  the  damage  as,  after 
two  or  three  fryings  the  lard  remaining  is 
unfit  for  further  use. 

343— Scallops. 


The  small,  soft,  white  shellfish  bearing 
this  name  may  be  cooked  in  all  the  same 
ways  as  oysters  and  clams,  but  is  gene- 
erally  preferred  breaded  and  fried. 


344— Clam 


Chowder— Coney 
Style. 


Island 


The  clam  chowder  so  popular  in  the 
restaurants  as  a  lunch  dish  is  more  of  a 
stew  than  a  soup,  being  thick  with  clams 
and  potatoes;  a  large  plate  of  it  makes  a 
hearty  meal  for  a  person.  It  is  conse- 
quently unsuitable  to  serve  as  soup  at 
hotel  dinners.  The  Coney  Island  chow- 
der contains  tomatoes  and  herb  season- 
ings. Take  1  quart  of  clams  and  their 
liquor — or  a  large  caa 

1  quart  soup  stock  (or  water). 

1  quart  raw  potatoes  cut  in  pieces. 

1  large  onion. 

Butter  size  of  an  egQ, 

A  slice  of  ham — or  knuckle  bone. 

1  pint  tomatoes  chopped. 

1  teaspoon  mixed  thyme  and  savory. 

6  cloves,  1  bay  leaf,  parsley. 

1  teaspoon  each  black  pepper  and  salt. 

The  different  articles  should  be  made 
ready  separately  and  placed  conveniently 
for  use.  Have  the  clams  scalded  and 
then  cut  in  pieces  and  the  liquor  saved. 
Cut  the  potaioes  in  large  squares  and 
slice  the  onions.  An  hour  before  dinner 
put  the  butter  and  ham  in  a  saucepan  to- 
gether, and  the  onions  on  top  and  set 
over  the  fire.  Put  the  cloves  inside  of 
a  little  bunch  of  parsley  and  tie  it  and 
the  bayleaf  together  and  throw  in  on  top 
of  the  onions,  and  also  the  powdered  or 
minced  thyme  and  savory,  and  put  on 
the  lid, and  let  stew  slowly.  In  about  15 
or  20  minutes   or   before   the  ham   and 


COOKINO  FOR   PROFIT. 


99 


onions  begin  to  brown  put  into  tbe  same 
saucepan  the  quart  of  ^oup  stock, the  clam 
liquor  and  potatoes,  tomatoes,  pepper 
and  salt  and  let  cook  until  the  potatoes 
are  done,  then  i)Ut  in  the  cut  clams. 
Take  out  the  soup  bunch  and  piece  of 
ham,  let  boil  up  once  with  the  clams  in. 

It  is  expected  that  the  potatoes  will 
sufficiently  thicken  this  chowder  without 
the  use  of  fiour  but  they  should  not  be 
allowed  to  boil  so  much  as  to  disappear 
altogether. 

Cost  of  material — clams  40,  soup- 
43tock  4,  potatoes  and  onion  2,  butter  4 
ham  2,  tomatoes  5,  seasonings  2,  59 
cents  for  3  quarts  or  20  c^nts  per  quart 
or  5c  per  ordinary  plate  of  ^  pint.  The 
first-class  restaurant  price  per  pint  plate 
or  bowl  with  table  extras  added  is  25c. 


S^S^CIam  Chowder— Boston  Style. 

This  is  what  is  called  the  old-fashioned 
sort,  having  no  tomatoes  in  it.  Make 
the  same  as  the  foregoing  but  leave  out 
the  cloves,  the  bay  leaf  and  the  tomatoes, 
and  put  in  a  pint  of  milk  instead  and  a 
handful  of  broken  crackers. 


346— Baked  Clam  Chowder— HoteJ 
Side  Dish. 


1  cupful  clnms. 

1  cup  of  the  clam  liquor. 

1  cup  salt  pork  cut  in  dice. 

2  cups  sliced  raw  potatoes. 
1  small  onion. 

1  teaspoon  mixed  salt  and  pepper. 

1  cup  milk. 

•J  cup  crushed  crackers. 

A  deep  pan  or  crock  that  holds  2 
quarts  is  nev-ded  to  cook  this  without 
boiling  over. 

Cut  the  pork  in  dice,  put  it  into  the 
pan  and  bake  it  light  brown.  Take  the 
pan  out  and  strew  some  of  the  thin  sliced 
potatoes  all  over  the  pork  scraps  and  fat. 
Shave  some  slices  of  the  rmionover  them, 
then  half  the  clams,  cut  in  small  pieces, 
then  more  potatoes,  onion,  and  the  rest 
of  the  clams.  Potatoes  on  top  and  the 
crashed  crackers  over  all  Mix  the  quart 


of  milk  with  the  clam  liquor,  add  the 
pepper  and  salt  and  pour  it  over  the 
crackers.  ,  Brush  a  sheet  of  thick  paper 
with  a  little  meat  fat,  lay  it  on  top  of  the 
chowder  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
about  2  hours.  It  will  be  partly  browned 
on  top. 

More  liquid  may  be  needed  if  the 
chowder  boils  away  fast.  It  is  done 
whenever  the  potatoes  in  the  center  are 
done.     Dish  out  spoonfuls  on  flat  dishes 


Cost  of  material — clams  15,  pork  6, 
potatoes  1,  seasoning  2;  24  cents  for  3 
pints  or  8  to  12  orders,  or  2  or  3  cents 
per  plate. 


347— Clam  Soup— Hotel. 

1  can  of  clams  or  1^  dozen. 
1  quart  clear  soup  stock. 
1  cup  raw  potatoes  in  dice. 
J  cup  crushed  crackers. 
1  slice  raw  ham . 

1  heaping  tablespoon  chopped  onion. 

2  cups  milk. 

1  tablespoon  minced  parsley. 

The  soup  stock  should  have  been  al- 
ready flavored  with  vegetables  in  the 
stock  boiler.  Strain  the  required  amount 
and  set  it  over  the  fira 

Fry  the  piece  of  ham  at  the  side  of  the 
range  brown  on  both  sides,  put  it  into 
the  stock,  without  the  grease  and  let  boil 
in  it  for  flavor,  also,  add  the  onions. 
Scald  the  clams  in  their  own  liquor  a 
minute  or  two;  take  them  out,  pour  the 
liquor  to  the  soup  through  a  fine  strainer, 
and  cut  the  clams  in  small  pieces.  Thirty 
minutes  before  dinner  throw  in  tbe  pota- 
toes and  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper 
and  take  out  the  ham  which  is  no 
more  needed  in  the  soup),  and  skim  a  it 
begins  to  i  oil  again.  Add  the  clams 
and  boil  a  few  minutes,  and  the  cupful 
of  crackers  and  chopped  parsley  and  the 
milk  which  should  be  already  boiling. 

The  care  required  is  to  have  the  pota- 
toes done  and  not  boiled  away,  and  the 
crumbled  crackers  just  dissolved  in  the 
soup  without  making  it  too  thick. 


100 


SAN"  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


Cost  of  material — clams  20,  ponp 
stock  4,  milk  4,  seasonings  4;  32  cents 
for  2J  quarts  or  2  or  3c  per  pl^te. 

348— Clam   Cream   Soup. 

Out  the  clams  in  four  and  make  the 
same  as  directed  lor  oyster  soup  with 
milk,  and  add  a  cupful  of  crushed  crack- 
ers at  the  finish  for  thickining. 

349— Mussels— Steamed. 


Steam  them  in  the  shells  until  they 
open,  then  pull  of  the  heard  and  take 
cut  the  mussel  with  a  knife  into  a  sauce- 
pan or  dish.  The  way  to  steam  them  is 
to  first  wash  the  outside  thoroughly  and 
pack  them  in  a  kettle  with  only  a  little 
water  on  I  he  bottom  to  start  the  boiling. 
Put  on  the  lid  and  set  over  the  fire. 


350— Mussels— Water  Sauchet. 


The  mussels  having  been  steamed  as 
above  and  taken  out  of  the  shells  into 
a  saucepan,  strain  the  liquor  they  were 
steamed  in  into  another  saucepan.  Put 
in  a  titblespoon  of  chopped  parsley,  a  lit- 
tle butter, salt  and  pepper  and  let  it  boil, 
then  thicken  slightly  with  flour  mixed 
in  a  teacup  with  water.  Put  in  the 
mussels  aud  serve  with  crackers,  brown 
bread  or  toast. 


351— Mussels  Stewed. 


Having  steamed  the  mussels  and 
taken  them  out  of  their  shells  make  a 
milk  stew  the  same  as  for  oysters,  by 
boiling  a  cup  of  milk  and  adding  half 
cup  of  liquor  from  the  steamed  mussels 
with  butter  and  pepper.  Taste  for  salt; 
add  a  sprinkling  of  parsley. 

Cost — Count  about  the  same  as  oys- 
ters. 


35?— Lobsters  to    Boil. 

Have  a  kettle  of  water  with  plenty 
of  salt  in  it  boiling  briskly  and  drop  in 
the  live  lobster.     If  small  it  will  be  done 


in  20  or  30  minutes,  but  a  large  obb 
takes  three  quarters  of  an  hour.  Cool 
and  keep  it  on  ice. 

353— Lobster  in  the  Shell. 


Split  the  Lobster  lengthwise  and  serve 
the  half,  the  meat  side  up.  Take  off  the 
large  claws  and  crack  them  and  place  on 
the  dish  along  with  the  half  if  it  is  a 
restaurant  order.  Garnish  handsomely 
with  curled  parsley  or  endive  and  cut 
lemons.  When  served  at  hotel  dinners 
they  should  either  be  small  lobsters  or 
be  divided  by  chopping  through  the  shell. 

Cost. — According  to  locality.  Lob- 
sters alive  can  be  bought  at  one  dollar 
per  100  pounds  in  some  places;  in  the 
interior  they  cost  ten  or  twelve  times  as 
much  Usual  restaurant  price  with  gar- 
nishings  and  table  extras  40c  per  whole 
lobster  or  25c  half. 


354— Canned  Lobster  in    Vinegar. 

Empty  a  can  of  lobster  into  a  bowl 
and  pour  plain  vinegar  over.  Serve  in 
place  of  salad  cold  for  dinner . 

Cost — Lobster  20,  vinegar  4;  24  cents 
for  8  dishes  or  3  cents  per  dish. 

355— Lobster  in   Mayonaise — Pastry. 

1  lobster. 

1  cup  minced  celery. 

1  cup  mayonaise  dressing. 

1  cup  shred  lettuce. 

2  tablespoons  olive  oil. 

3  tablespoons  vinegar* 

1  teaspoon  made  mustard. 
Salt  and  cayenne. 

2  hard-boiled  eggs. 

Take  the  meat  out  of  a  large  lobster 
and  keep  the  handsomest  pieces  of  red 
meat  separate  after  trimming  all  to  a 
uniform  size.  Shake  them  about  in  a 
pan  with  a  little  oil  and  vinegar  to  mois- 
ten them.  Cut  the  other  portion  of  the 
lobster  meat  small,  without  mincing  it, 
but  mince  the  celery  fine  and  mix  both 
together  along   with  a  little  oil  vinegar 


COOKINO  FOR   PROFIT, 


101 


and  mnstard,  and  pinch  of  cayenne  and 
salt,  then  press  it  slightly  into  a  melon 
mould  or  some  kind  of  deep  bowL 

Prepare  the  dish  with  a  border  of  let- 
tuce or  endive  very  finely  shred  (like 
filaw)  with  a  sharp  knife.  Turn  out  the 
shape  of  mixed  lobster  and  celery  in  the 
center  and  cover  it  all  over  with  thick 
mayonaise  (No.  151).  Place  the  red 
pieces  of  lobster  around  the  base  and  or- 
nament further  with  quarters  of  hard- 
boiled  eggs. 

Cost  of  material — lobster  25^  celery 
and  lettuce  4,  mayonaise  15,  oil  and  vin- 
egar or  lemon  juice  5,  eggs  5;  54  cents 
for  over  a  quart  or  4  restaurant  orders 
for  15c  per  dish,  or  8  individual  dishes 
for  7c  per  dish. 

356 — Lobster   Mayonaise — Hotel 
Dinner. 


1.  The  same  as  the  preceding  except 
in  shape.  Instead  of  the  dome  shape  or 
melon  shape  spread  out  the  mixed  lobster 
meat  and  celeiy  in  a  flat  platter  so  that 
it  will  be  an  inch  deep  and  spread  the 
mayonaise  all  over  it.  Keep  it  very 
cold.  When  to  be  served  place  a  little 
freshly  shred  lettuce  in  the  small  dish,  a 
neat  spoonful  of  the  salad  in  the  middle 
ana  pieces  of  red  lobster  meat  around. 

2.  The  dishes  can  be  made  to  look 
very  neat  and  attractive  by  the  way 
above  described  of  taking  up  spoonfuls 
from  a  mass  ready  spread  in  a  disb,  (and 
it  is  quick  to  dish  up,)  but  another  way 
is  to  dish  the  lobster  salad  out  of  the 
pan  it  is  mixed  in  into  the  individual  dish 
with  or  without  a  border  of  green, 
then  on  top  drop  a  tablespoonful  of  may- 
onaise, without  spreading  or  smoothing 
it,  and  garnish  with  quartered  eggs  or 
or  olives  or  a  slice  of  lemon. 

Cost — About  5c  per  individual  dish. 


357— Salad   Cream  Without  Oil. 

Icup  vinegar. 

icup  water. 

t  cup  butter — 2  ounces. 


^  cup  yolks  of  esrgs — 5  or  six  yolks. 

1  tablespoon  made  mustard. 

1  teaspoon  sugar. 

Salt,  cayenne. 

Boil  the  vinegar,  water,  batter  and 
salt  together  in  a  bright  saucepan,  beat 
the  yolks,  and  add  to  them  some  of  the 
boiling  liquid,  then  pour  all  into  the 
saucepan,  stir  rapidly,  and  in  a  few  sec- 
onds, or  as  soon  as  the  mixture  becomes 
thick  and  smooth,  like  softened  butter, 
take  it  from  the  fire.  Add  the  mustard 
and  cayenne,  and  make  it  ice  cold  for 
use. 


Cost  of  material — 20 cents  a  pint. 

Note. — ^The  foregoing  is  extremely 
useful  for  making  a  salad  of  almost  any 
material;  it  should  be  practiced  a  few 
times  until  the  proper  point  at  which  to 
remove  it  from  the  fire  is  well  under- 
stood. It  is  generally  thickest  and 
smoothest  in  half  a  minute  after  the  yolks 
are  poured  into  the  boiling  liqaid,  and  it 
becomes  thicker  when  cooled  by  being 
set  in  ice  water.  It  will  keep  a  consid- 
erable time. 

358— Salad  Cream— Not  Cooked. 


The  vinegar  is  boiled  but  not  the  eggs 
and  it  is  somewhat  different  from  the 
preceding  kind. 

J  cup  vinegar. 

J  cup  water. 

\  cup  butter. 

^  cup  raw  eggs — 3. 

Mustard,  pepper-sauce,  salt. 

Boil  the  vinegar  and  water  together; 
beat  the  eggs  up  a  little  in  a  bowl  and 
pour  the  boiling  liquor  to  them,  beating 
at  the  same  time,  then  put  in  the  butter 
either  previously  softened  or  in  Httle 
pie(^s  and  stir  until  it  is  melted.  Add 
a  little  mustard  thinned  down  in  a  cup 
first  with  some  of  the  dressing. 

359— Lobster    Salad  Made   With 
Celery. 

1  can  lobster. 

Same  measure  minced  celeiy, 

1  cup  salad  cream. 


loa 


8 AN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


Shred  lettnce  endive  or  cress. 

Mince  the  celery  very  fine,  but  cut  the 
lobstifr  into  pieces  size  of  beans.  Put 
the  lobster  in  a  bright  pan,  the  celery  on 
top  and  the  salad  cream  poured  over  and 
mix  Ujj  lightly  without  mashing  the  lob- 
ster to  a  paste  Garnish  the  dishes  first 
with  shred  lettuce  and  di'^h  the  lobster 
salad  in  the  middle. 


Cost  of  material — 30  cents  per  quart 
or  3  to  4  cents  per  individual  dish. 

360— Lobster  Salad  made  with  Let- 
tuce. 


Pick  out  the  hearts  of  lettuce  and  pu 
two  or  three  of  the  smallest  leaves  in 
each  dish.  Chop  the  rest  only  a  few 
mmuies  before  it  is  wanted  and  mix  with 
lobster  and  salad  cream  the  same  as  di- 
rected for  the  preceding  kind. 


361— Substitute  tor  Celery. 

Use  tender  white  cabbage  finely  minced 
and  flavor  it  with  celery  seed,  celery 
vinegar,  or  celery  salt,  or  mix  in  a  few 
green  celery  leaves.  It  is  good  also  un- 
flavored  ana  seasoned  with  oil  and  vin- 
egar. 

362->Lobster  Salad    made   with  Po- 
tatoes. 


1  can  lobster 

Same  measure  of  cold  cooked  potatoes. 

2  hard-boiled  eggs . 
1  cup  salad  cream. 

Cut  the  cold  potatoes  in  dice  shape 
and  the  lobster  as  near  as  possible  in  the 
same  form  and  eggs  likewiee.  Put  all 
in  a  pan  pour  the  salad  cream  over  thera 
and  mix  by  shaking  up. 

Cost — lobster  20.  potatoes  2,  salad 
cream  10,  eggs  4;  36  cents  or  3  to  4 
cents  per  individual  dish. 

363— Buttered  Lobster  on  Toast. 


Take  the  large  and  solid  pieces  of  lob- 
ster, cut  them  to  an  even  size  but  not 
very  small.     Put  a  piece  of  butter   size 


of  an  eggj  in  a  frying  pan  and  chop  it 
apart  with  a  spoon  while  it  is  getting  hot 
over  the  fire  and  when  melted  put  in  the 
lobster,  dredge  with  pepper  and  salt, 
squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  and 
shake  it  back  and  forth.  As  soon  as 
hot  through  it  is  ready.  Serve  on  thia 
broad  slices  of  battered  toast. 


Cost — 34  cents  for  8  portions  or  about 
4  cents  per  dish. 

364— Lobster  Patties. 


See  directions  for  oyster  patties  of  the 
different  varieties,  white,  yellow,  brown, 
in  puff  paste  shells  and  in  household 
style  and  make  lobster  patties  the  same 
way,  but  remember  to  season  lobster 
with  a  dash  of  lemon  juice  and  cayenne. 

365— Lobster  Cutlets. 

So  called  because  made  to  imitate  a 
lamb  chop  or  cutlet  breaded . 

1  heaping  cup  lobster  meat — 8  oz. 
1  cup  fine  bread  crumbs — 2  oz. 
Butter  size  of  a  guinea  egg. 

1  teaspoon  mixed  salt  and  pepper.. 

2  tablespoons  vinegar. 
8  lobster  claws. 

1  egg  and  one  cup  cracker  meal. 

Lard  to  fry. 

Mash  the  lobster  meat  and  the  season- 
ing ingredients  together  in  a  pan  to  a 
paste,  divide  into  6  or  8  portions,  take 
them  up  with  flour  on  the  hands  and 
make  into  the  shape  ot  small  pears,  then 
flatten  them,  stick  a  lobster  claw  in  each 
one  to  look  like  the  bone  of  a  lamb  chop. 
Dip  tbem  in  egg  beaten  up  with  a 
little  water  and  from  that  into  cracker 
meal  and  fry  light  brown  by  immersion 
in  plenty  of  hot  lard.  Better  if  you  have 
a  wire  basket  to  dip  them  and  not  break. 
Serve  with  sauce,  either  tomato  sauce  or 
tomato  and  creauL-sauce  mixed,  or  pars- 
ley sauce. 

Cost — of  material — lobster  12,  butter 
3,  bread  and  seasonings  1,  egg  and 
cracker  meal  3,  lard  to  fry  2;  21  cents, 
or  with  sauce  from  3  to  4  cents  per  dish, 
according  to  size  made  up. 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT, 


103 


366— Lobster  Croquettes. 

Instead  of  maphing  to  a  papte  as  m  the 
preceding  case,  chop  tbe  lobster  small 
and  stir  in  the  bread  crumbs,  melt  the 
butter  and  pour  in,  add  a  little  chopped 
parsley  and  make  up  in  pear  shapes  or 
in  any  other  shape,  and  bread  and  fry  ap 
before 


367— Shrimps  and   Prawns. 


The  small  sea  shrimp  is  generally  eaten 
in  the  shell,  the  head  and  tail  only  re- 
moved, being  more  delicate  flavor  than 
the  prawn  but  too  small  for  most  culi- 
nary purposes.  The  prawn  is  twice  as 
large.  It  is  the  pink  colored  large  shrimp 
of  southern  waters  and  is  now  readily 
obtainable  put  up  in  cans  ready  trimmed 
and  shelled  for  use. 

Shrimps  of  all  kinds  are  first  cooked 
by  dropping  them  in  boiling  salt  water. 
It  is  said  to  show  that  they  were  dead 
when  put  in  the  boiler  if  they  come  out 
ying  straight  at  full  length;  and  it  is 
considered  ihey  ought  to  be  dropped  in 
alive  and  consequently  quite  fresh,  when 
they  come  out  in  the  doubled  form  as 
they  are  seen  in  the  market  Ten  min- 
utes boiling  is  enough. 

368— Shrimps  in  Mayonafse. 


Put  the  shrimps — already  picked  from 
their  shells — in  i  pan  or  bowl,  add  a 
spoonful  of  vinegar  and  the  same  of  ol- 
ive oil,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  cayenne  and 
shake  them'  about  until  they  are  mois- 
tened all  over.  Then  heap  them  neatly 
in  a  dish.  Put  a  border  of  minced  cel- 
ery or  shred  lettuce  around  and  a  spoon- 
ful of  mayonaise  dressing  on  top  of  the 
phrimps. 

Cost — A  cupful  of  prepared  shrimps 
costs  25  cents,  or  twice  as  much  as  lob- 
ster. The  ways  of  preparing  lobsters 
serve  equally  as  well  for  shrimps  but  the 
cost  should  be  counted  double — or  the 
25  cent  restaurant  dishes  be  about  half 
the  cost  of  lobster  salad. 


369— Shrimp  Salad. 

Put  the  prepared  shrimps  in  a  bowl 
with  salad  cream  enough  to  almost  cov- 
er them.  Prepare  individual  salad  dish- 
es with  a  border  of  fresh  shred  lettuce 
and  dish  up  a  spoonful  of  the  shrimps 
and  sauce  in  the  middle. 


Cost — shrimps  25,  salad  cream  5,  let- 
tuce 1;  31  cents  for  6  or  8  dishes  or  5 
cents  per  plate. 

370— Buttered  Shrimps 

Warm  up  the  prepared  shrimps  in  a 
frying  pan  with  a  little  butter,  pepper 
and  salt  and  serve  them  as  scon  as  hot 
through  on  a  broad  thin  slice  of  buttered 
toast. 


371— Shrimp  Toast. 

Pound  the  shrimps  to  a  paste>  season 
pleasantly  with  salt,  pepper,  a  slight 
grating  of  nutmeg,  a  teaspoonful  of  lem- 
on juice  and  half  as  much  best  butter  as 
there  is  shrimp,  and  spread  it  upon  thin 
slices  of  toast  A  breakfast  or  luncheon 
dish. 


372— Crabs  to  Bofl. 


Boil  the  same  as  lobsters.  The  large 
deep-water  crabs  take  the  same  length 
of  time.  Soft  shells  are  done  in  ten  or 
fifteen  minutes.  Qse  the  large  ones  if 
possible  for  salads  and  to  dress  cold. 

373— Soft  Shell  Crabs,  Boiled. 

As  served  in  the  restaurants  every 
part  of  a  soft  shell  crab  is  eaten,  shell, 
claws  and  all,  except  the  eand  pouch  on 
the  under  side,  .  but  the  small  claws 
should  be  taken  off  when  the  crabs  are 
to  be  cooked  by  boiling. 

Drop  the  erabs  into  boiling  water  al- 
ready well  salted, cook  10  or  15 minutes, 
drain,  and  serve  with  a  sauce  at  the 
side. 

Tomato  ketchup,  mayonaise  sauce,hot 
cream  sauce  or  butter  or  parsley  sauce 
are  suitable  kitids. 


104 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZEITE'S 


374_Soft  Shell  Crabs,  Fried. 

Bread  it  in  the  usual  manner  by  dip- 
ping in  egg  in  which  a  small  proportion 
of  water  has  been  beaten,  then  in  cracker 
meal.  Drop  two  or  three  at  a  time  in  a 
saucepan  of  hot  oil  or  lard  and  fry  light 
brown  in  about  ten  minutes.  The  claws 
should  be  crisp  enough  to  break.  Gar- 
nish with  fried  parsley  and  serve  mayon- 
aise  at  the.flide  separately. 

Cost — soft- shells  bring  from  10c  to 
20c  each  in  the  markets  when  hard 
shells  are  but  from  2c  to  5c — according 
to  where  the  market  may  be  located. 
Two  soft-shells  tried,  with  sauce  and  ta 
ble  extras  constitute  a  restaurant  dish  at 
60  or  60  cents. 

375— Crab  Salad. 


serve  the  meat  in  them,  placed  on  a  bed 
of  something  green — ^lettuce,  cres8,young 
celery  plants  or  parsley. 

377— Devilled   Crabs. 


6  boiled  crabs,  common  size. 

1  cup  finely  minced  white  cabbage  let- 
tuce, or  endive. 

^  cup  salad  cream. 

Pick  the  meat  out  of  the  crabs,  cut 
all  that  can  be  cut  into  pieces  of  even 
size  and  rub  the  rest  smooth  in  salad 
diessing,  adding  a  little  mustard.  Mix 
cabbage  and  dressing  thoroughly,  and 
the  crab  meat  mix  in  lightly  without 
breaking  tho  pieces.  Fill  the  crab  shells 
with  the  salad  and  place  them  on  a  dish 
previously  prepared  with  a  bed  of  cress 
or  other  green. 

Cost  of  material — 6  crabs  25,  salad 
cream  5,  green  2;  32  cents  for  6  shells  of 
Balad  or  5  or  6c  each. 


Boil  the  crabs  in  salted  water  20  min- 
utes, open  and  crack  the  claws  and  take 
out  the  mejit,  measure  it  with  a  spoon 
into  a  bowl  and  add  half  as  many  spoon- 
fuls of  fine  bread  crumbs.  For  each  crab 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  softened  butter, 
same  of  vinegar  mixed  with  a  small  tea- 
spoonful  of  made  mu8tard,a  pinch  of  salt 
and  cayenne.  Pack  the  mixture  in  the 
crab  shells  and  cover  the  surface  with 
cracker  meal, bake  brown  in  a  brisk  oven 
and  baste  the  tops  once  with  butter  to 
moisten  the  breading..  Serve  in  the 
shells. 


Cost — about  5  cents  each.. 


378— Canned  Crabs  Devilled;^ 


Note. — Crab  salads  may  be  made  in 
all  ihe  same  ways  as  shrimp  and  lobster 
salads;  particularly  good  with  mayonaise 
dressing. 

376— Dressed  Crab, 

Pick  the  meat  from  the  shell  and 
claws,  cut  the  solid  part  into  small 
pieces,  dry  the  soft  part  with  the  addi- 
tion of  a  spoonful  of  fine  bread  crumbs, 
mix  all  with  a  little  oil,  vinegar  and 
mustanl.     Wash  and  dry  the  shells  and 


1  can  of  crab. 
"    ^  cup  butter  sauce. 

4  hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggsi- 

Salt  and  cayenne. 

Crab  shells  or  paper  cases.. 

Have  the  butter  sauce  made  the  same 
as  if  for  boiled  meat,  mash  the  yolks  and 
sauce  together  and  stir  into  the  crab.  Sea- 
son to  taste.  Oil  the  crab  shells  inside 
with  salad  oil,  fill  up,  smooth  over  the 
top,  bake  about  6  minutes  and  serve 
hot 


Cost — can  of  devilled  crab    20,  yolks 
7,  butter  sauce  3;  30  cents  for  6  or  8. 


Note. — The  canned  crab  is  called  dev- 
illed crab  as  it  is,  simply  meaning  that  i- 
is  minced  and  cooked.  It  is  usually 
dryer  than  the  meat  taken  out  of  the 
shells, being  composed  of  selected  meat — 
hence  the  difference  between  the  two 
foregoing  receipts,  bread  being  needed 
in  one  case  to  dry  it  up.  Crab  shells 
may  be  saved  over  and  used  many  times 
for  the  same  purpose.  When  a  number 
are  to  be  served  at   once,  dish   them  ou 


COOKING  FOR    PROFIT. 


105 


a  folded  napkin  and  ornament  the  dish. 
Paper  cases  may  be  purchased  to  answer 
the  same  purpose  as  shells. 

379— Bnttered   Crabs. 


Devilled  crab  from  the  cans  made  hot 
in  a  frying  pan  with  a  little  butter,  pep- 
per and  salt  and^served  on  toast. 


QUAKER  DAIRY  LUNCH. 


Farinaceous  and  milk  food ;  such  dish- 
es as  mush  and  milk,  bread  and  butter 
and  fruit  and  buttermilk  are  the  special- 
ties of  some  lunch  houses.  These  are  all 
cheap  and  healthful  dishes  and  many  cus- 
tomers avail  themselves  of  the  opportu- 
nity to  avoid  meat  eating  altogether.  A 
large  variety  of  pastry,  puddings  and 
cakes,  however,  gets  into  the  bill  of  fare 
of  most  of  the  **  dairies"  eventually, such 
as  hdve  been  enumerated  already  under 
the  head  of  fine  bakery  lunch,  and  a  {qw 
more  will  be  found  following  these-  aim- 
pier  dishes. 

380— Oatmeal  Mush  and  Milk. 


1  cup  oatmeal. 
4  cups  water. 

2  teaspoons  salt. 

The  coarsest  oatmeal  is  the  best  and 
the  least  liable  to  bum.  It  is  the  dust 
in  oatmeal  that  sticks  and  scorches  on 
the  bottom,  if  that  is  washed  away  the 
tendency  will  be  very  much  lessened.  A 
double  bottomed  kettle  can  be  used  if 
steam  enough  can  be  kept  up,  but  gen- 
erally mush  seems  better  when  cooked 
in  a  pot  on  a  part  of  the  range  that  is  not 
very  hot. 

Boil  the  water  two  hours  before  the 
meal,  put  in  the   oatmeal,   cover    down 


and  let  simmer  at  the  side.  Watch  to 
see  that  it  does  not  boil  dry  but  only  stir 
it  up  when  nearly  done.  Serve  warm, 
with  cold  milk  in  another  bowl. 

Cost — with  oatmeal  6c  per  pound — 
oatmeal  mush  8c  per  quart  or  3  large 
cups,  milk  6;  3  cents  each  perbon. 

Note. — This  being  such  a  cheap  dish 
and  the  usual  price  ten  cents,  some  res- 
taurants serve  a  platter  with  an  unstinted 
amount  of  mush  and  a  pint  of  milk  for 
that  charga 

381— Cracked  Wheat  Mush  and  Milk. 


The  same  as  oatmeal  but  the  wheat 
needs  longer  boiling — say  3  hours.  It  is 
better  for  a  previous  soaking  in  water. 


382— Hulled 


Corn   or   Home    Made 
Hominy. 


Steep  a  quart  of  white  corn  in  weak 
lye  for  two  days,  wash  in  two  waters 
and  boil  it  about  4  hours  or  unlil  tender. 
The  lye  from  the  leach  of  wood  ashes  is 
the  kmd  generally  used,  but  a  weak  so- 
lution of  concentrated  lye  will  answer 
and  if  that  is  not  available  mix  a  handful 
of  baking  soda  in  water  enough  to  cover 
the  com  twice  over  and  let  steep  in  that. 
Wash  well  before  cooking,  eat  with  salt 
and  milk. 


Cost — the  same   as  mush    and  milk, 
rem  1  to  3  cents  each  person. 

383— Soda  Crackers  and  Milk. 

10  crackers  and  a  pint  bowl  of  milk. 
Usual  charge  10  cents. 


384 — Graham   or   Oatmeal   Crackers 
and  Milk. 


Same  as  the  preceding. 

385— Doughnuts  and  Milk. 

Prepare  the  dough  as  if  for  French 
roUs  or  cream  rolls,  roll  out  thin,  cut  out 
like  small  biscuits,  bmsh  over  the  tops 
with  the  least  possible  amount  of  melted 


106 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


lard  and  let  stand  in  pans  to  rise  for  an 
hour.  Take  them  up  singly  and  drop 
in  a  kettle  of  hot  lard  and  fry  light  brown 
in  about  5  minutes. 


Cost  of  mat«irial — these  small  plain 
doughnuts  6  cents  per  dozen.  Uusnally 
one  with  a  glass  of  milk,  5c. 

386— Baked  Pork  and  Beans. 


Wash  and  pick  over  a  large  heaping 
cnpfal  of  navy  beans  and  steep  them  in 
water  over  night.  Put  them  on  next 
moning  with  fresh  water  to  more  than 
cover,  and  baking  soda  the  size  of  a 
bean  and  let  boil  about  an  hour.  Then 
carry  them  to  the  sink,  pour  all  into  a 
colander  lettiug  the  water  run  away  and 
put  back  into  the  saucepan  with  cold 
water  enough  to  come  up  to  a  level.  Boil 
again  and  in  a  few  minutes  they  will  be 
soft.  Season  with  a  little  salt  and  table- 
spoon of  molasses.  Put  them  into  four 
pint  bowls  or  tin  pans,  lay  an  ounce  slice 
of  salt  pork  on  each  and  bake  half  an 
hour. 

387— Boston  Brown  Bread. 


1  pound  com  meal — about  3  cups. 

1  pint  boiling  water — 2  cups. 

J  cup  black  molasses. 

1  cup  cold  water. 

1  cup  yeast  or  yeast  cake  in  water. 

J  pound  of  either  rye  or  graham  flour. 

}  pound  of  white  flour — a  heaping  pint. 

Salt. 

Pot.r  the  boiling  water  over  the  corn- 
meal  in  a  pan  and  mix,  throw  in  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  add  the  molasses  and 
cold  water,  then  the  yeast  and  then  the 
two  kinds  of  flour.  Line  two  sheet-iron 
brown  bread  pails  with  s:reased  paper, put 
in  the  dough  and  let  rise  from  one  to  two 
hours,  ihen  bake  or  steam  for  five  hours. 
If  steamed,  bake  the  loaves  afterward 
long  enough  to  form  a  light  crust. 


Cosi  of  material —  corn  meal  3,  flour 
3,  molasses  and  yeast  2;  8  cents  for  two 
2-pound  loaves. 


Note. — A  good  sort  of  bread  is  made 
as  above  with  a  pound  of  graham  cifted 
through  a  common  flour  sieve  to  remove 
the  coarse  bran, and  the  white  flour  omit- 
ted; or  with  all  rye  flour  and  no  graham  or 
white.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to 
scald  the  yeast  by  adding  it  to  the  hot 
meal  before  the  cold  water.  When  this 
kind  of  bread  is  sticky  when  sliced  it 
shows  it  was  made  up  too  wet.  When 
the  loaves  come  out  hollow  or  caved  in  it 
hows  too  much  fermentation. 


Cost  of  material — beans  4,  pork  4;  8 
cents  for  4  dishes 


388— Sour  Milk  Cheese  or  Smearkase. 

Set  a  pan  of  clabbered  milk  on  the 
stove  when  there  is  not  much  fire,  and 
let  it  heat  slowly  without  bumiug  on  the 
bottom.  When  it  shows  signs  of  boiling 
it  should  be  taken  ofi',  as  actual  boiling 
makes  the  curd  tough.  Pour  it  into  a 
piece  of  muslin,  tie  and  hang  on  a  nail  to 
drip  until  next  day.  Chop  up  the  ball 
of  curd  and  mix  with  salt,  pepper  and 
cream  to  taste,  or  cream  or  sweet  milk 
and  sugar. 

Sells  well  at  the  dairy  lunch   houses 
When  for  sale    in  that  way   it  is  not  ne- 
cessary to  add  any  seasonings  but  a  little 
salt.     Serve  in  saucers. 

Cost  of  material — one  e;allon  sour 
milk  value  20  cents  will  yield  12  ounces 
of  cheese,  which  chopped  and  moistened 
with  milk  makes  3  half  pints,  or  6  of 
the  little  cheeses  done  up  in  tinfoil  that 
we  find  for  sale  in  the  stores . 

389— Cream  Cheese. 

Take  a  quart  of  cream  that  has  become 
sour  and  thick,  mix  in  a  tablespoonful  of 
salt  and  pour  it  into  a  piece  of  thin  mus- 
lin (butter  wrapping)  placed  in  a  sieve  or 
basket  bottom'.  Leave  it  in  the  milk 
house  or  other  cold  place  three  days,  to 
drain  and  ripen,  pouring  away  the  whey 
from  the  dish  it  stands  on  every  day. 
Lift  the  cheese  out  by  taking  hold  of  the 
corners   of  the   cloth;   invert   it   on  to  a 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT. 


107 


plate.  These  are  sometimes  inverted  on 
to  a  large  cabbage  leaf  on  the  pecond  day 
and  taken  to  market  on  the  leaf  the  next 
day  by  those  who  make  them  for  sale. 

Note. — The  above  is  the  "slipcote" 
cheese  of  English  dairies  and  country 
markets,  and  is  the  same  in  the  main  as 
the  imported  fromage  de  Brie,  the  dif- 
ferences consisting  in  the  use  of  a  pro- 
portion of  goats  milk  in  the  laster,  and 
peculiar  skill  in  manipulation  learned 
through  practice  among  the  English  pro- 
ducers. 


390— Baked  Bread  Pudding. 

4  heaping  cups  bread — 1  pound. 
4  cups  water  or  milk. 

1  cup  finely  minced  suet. 

2  tablespoons  sugar. 
2  eggs. 

1  nutmeg,  or  minced  lemon  peel. 

Bread  being  such  a  cheap  article  there 
is  no  economy  in  trying  to  use  the  dark 
crust  of  the  stale  pieces  that  are  re- 
quired, but  they  should  be  pared  until 
there  is  nothing  but  white  bread  left. 
Cut  iuto  thin  slices  and  then  across  in 
dice, and  put  it  in  a  pan  having  the  minced 
suet  first  strewn  over  the  bottom.  Mix 
the  milk,  sugar,  eggs  and  nutmeg  to- 
gether and  pour  it  over  the  bread.  Set 
in  the  oven  without  stirring  it  up,  bake 
until  set  in  the  middle.  Serve  out  of 
the  pan  and  pour  sauce  (No.  70)  over  in 
the  saucer. 


Cost  of  material — bread  4,  suet  2, 
sugar  2,  eggs  4;  12  cents  for  near  2 
quarts — sauce  8--20  cents  for  8  orders 
or  2Jc  each — or  1^  for  hotel  dishes. 

Note — It  is  the  genteel  way  in  most 
places  to  bake  the  puddings  in  .  bowls 
holding  a  pint  and  serve  the  sauce  in 
small  individual  pitchers.  Uusual  charge 
ten  conts. 


391-^Baked  Rice  and    Milk  Pudding. 

1  cup  rice 
1  cup  sugar. 


6  cups  milk. 

Cinnamuu  or  nutmeg. 

A  pinch  of  salt 

Wash  the  rice  in  three  or  four  waters, 
put  it  into  a  tin  pudding  pan,  and  the 
sugar,  milk,  salt  and  piece  of  stick  cin- 
namon with  it,  all  cold,  and  bake  in  a 
slow  oven  tor  three  or  four  hours.  It 
may  be  best  to  use  only  five  cups  of  milk 
at  first,  and  add  the  other  if  the  time 
allows  the  pudding  to  boil  down  dry 
enough.  Cover  with  a  sheet  of  greased 
paper  so  keep  the  top  from  scorching. 
Sauce  not  necessary,  but  generally  a 
glass  of  milk  served  with  it. 


Cost  of  material — rice  4,  milk  8,  su- 
gar 5,  seasoning  1;  18  cents  for  3  pints, 
or  6  or  8  orders,  or  3  cents  each  person. 

Note — The  preceding  is  a  favorite 
kind  of  pudding  everywhere  and  in  some 
of  the  finest  hotels  is  nearly  always  of- 
fered as  an  alternative  from  the  richer 
kinds.  Its  good  quality  arises  from  the 
slow  boiling  down  and  condensation  of 
the  richness  of  the  milk.  When  it  is  to 
be  baked  in  individual  bowls  it  becomes 
necessary  to  boil  it  first  ic  a  kettle  and 
in  that  case  the  milk  should  be  boiled 
down  partially,  with  the  sugar  in  it  to 
prevent  burning,  befoiethe  rice  is  put  in. 
Then  when  done  dip  it  into  bowls,  wipe 
off  the  edges  and  bake  until  top  is  brown. 


392— Cracked  Wheat  Pudding. 

4  large  cups  cracked  wheat  mush. 
Small  half  cup  black  molasses. 

1  cup  minced  suet — 3  ounces. 

2  eggs. 

1  cup  milk  or  water. 

1  rounded  teaspoon  ground  cinnamon. 

Mix  all  the  ingredients  together  and 
bake  about  an  hour.  If  wanted  to  make 
it  better  add  a  cup  of  raisins,  but  strew 
them  over  the  top,  for  if  stirred  in  they 
all  go  to  the  bottom. 

When  this  pudding  is  to  be  made  ex- 
tra, wheat  should  be  put  on  for  the  break- 
fast mush,  to  secure  the  benefit  of  the 
three  hours  cooking.     When  the   mush 


108 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


bappeDS   to  be   cold;    mash   it\^ith   the 
milk  made  hot,  so  as  to  have  no  himps. 

One  laige  cup  of  cracked  wheat  raw 
will  make  the  above  amount.  The  mush 
is  expected  to  be  dry.  else  use  less  milk 
or  more  eggs,  The  pudding  has  to  be 
apparently  quite  fluid  when  put  in  the 
oven  but  comes  out  firm  enough. 

Cost  of  material — mush  3,  suet  2, 
molasses  2,  eggs,  4,  milk  and  cinnamon 
1;  12  cents  for  3  pints  or  6  or  8  orders  or 
2  cents  each,  with  sauce  3  cents. 


393— Lincoln  Pie. 

1  pound  broken  crackers  or  bread. 

1  pound  brown  sugar  or  molasses. 

J  pound  currants. 

1  ounce  mixed  ground  spices,  chiefly 
cinnamon. 

1  pint  cold  water. 

^  pint  hard  cider,  or  vinegar  and 
water. 

1  pound  suet  chopped  fine,  or  lard. 

Soak  the  crackers  or  bread  in  the  flu- 
ids awhile.  jMix  everything  together. 
Cover  the  bottom  of  a  baking  pan  with 
a  very  thin  sheet  of  common  short  paste. 
Pour  in  the  mixture  to  be  1^  inches 
deep.  Cover  with  another  very  thin 
sheet  of  p^ste.  Brush  over  with  milk. 
Bake  to  a  light  color  in  a  slow  oven 
about  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Cut 
out  squares  either  hot  or  cold. 

Cost  of  material — bread  3,  sugar  8, 
currants  5,  epice  5.  cider  2,  suet  10, 
pie-paste  11;  44  cents  for  6  or  7  pounds 
or  14  squares. 

394— Baked   CustaTd  in  Cups. 

1  quart  milk. 

6  eggs. 

J  cup  sugar— 4  ounceb. 

Flavoring. 

Break  the  eggs  into  the  sugar  and 
pour  in  the  milk  while  beating.  Grate 
in  a  quarter  of  a  nutmeg.  Fill  five 
^pint  cups  with  the  custard,  wipe  off" 
the  edges  and  outside,  set  in  a  pan  and 
4i>ake  in  a  slack  oven  about  20  minutes. 


Be  careful  not  to  let  the  cups  remain  in 
the  oven  longer  than  till  the  custard  is 
just  set  in  the  middle. 

Cost  of  material — milk  8,  eggs  13, 
sugar  and  flour  3;  24c,  or  5  cents  per 
cup  or  according  to  price  of  eggs.  These 
are  restaurant  cups  that  sell  as  pudding 
at  10c.  Common  custard  cups  only  half 
the  size. 

395— Blackberry  Meringue. 

Make  the  same  as  strawberry  mer- 
ingue at  Na  195. 

396— Peach  Meringue 

Pare  ripe  peaches  (not  cooked)  and 
cut  them  to  size  of  strawberries  and 
make  the  same  as  strawberry  meringue 
at  No.  195. 


397— Peach  Shortcake. 


The  same  thing  as  strawberry  short- 
cake, using  chop ,jed  ripe  peaches  instead. 
It  is  a  cake  of  short  paste,  not  sweet,  as 
large  as  a  plate  and  thick  as  a  biscuit, 
split  in  two  after  baking,peache8  and  su- 
gar spread  on  the  lower  haL^,  the  other 
placed  on  top  with  the  split  side  upward 
and  more  peaches  spread  upon  that.  It 
is  eaten  with  cream.  The  ingredients 
required  are: 

1  cup  lard  or  butter — 8  ounces. 

3  cups  flour — 12  ounces. 

^  teaspoon  salt. 

1  CUD  ice  water, 

1  quart  cut  peaches. 

1  cup  sugar. 

Pare  the  peaches,  cut  them  small  and 
shake  up  with  the  sugar  before  making 
the  paste,  and  set  them  in  a  cool  place. 
Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour  thoroughly 
with  the  hands.  Salt  is  needed  only 
where  lard  is  used.  Make  a  hollow  in 
the  middle,  pour  in  the  water,  mix  up 
soft,  roll  out  on  the  table  in  flour  re- 
served for  the  purpose.  It  makes  the 
cake  flaky  and  part  in  layers  to  roll  it 
and  fold  it  a  few  times  like  pie  paste. 

Then  make  it  up  round,  let  stand  five 
minutes,   roll  out  thick  as  biscuit  and 


COOKING  FOR    PROFIT. 


109 


bake  on  a  jelly-cake   pan.     Finish  with 
frait  as  above  stated. 


Cost  of  material — peaches  20,  crnst 
13,  sugar  5;  37  cents  for  2  Bhortcakes,to 
be  cut  in  quarters. 

398— Apple  Shortcake. 

Use  mellow  apples  of  fine  flavor  and 
mike  the  same  as  peach  shortcake,  the 
apples  not  to  be  cooked,  but  mixed  with 
sugar  and  chopped  and  used  immediatly. 


399— Peach   Cobbler 


A  peach  pie  made  in  a  baking  pan  to 
be  cut  out  in  squares.  Make  common 
pie  paste,  roU  out  the  larger  half  of  it  to 
a  thin  sheet  and  take  up  off  the  table  by 
rolling  it  up  on  the  rolling  pin  and  so  un 
roll  it  on  the  pan.  Put  in  pared  and  cut 
peaches  an  inch  deep,  dredge  a  little 
sugar  over  them,cover  with  the  top  crust 
and  bake  about  half  an  hour. 


Cos'P— each  person  about  the  same  as 
fruit  pie  or  apple  dumplings,  or  3  to  5 
cents  per  plata 

400— Apple  Cobbler. 

Same  as  peach  cobbler.  Other  fruits 
same  way.  With  apples  use  cianamon 
or  nutmeg  for  flavor. 

401— Boiled  Rice  and  Milk. 


1  cup  rice — J  pound. 

2  cups  water. 
1  cup  milk. 
Salt. 

Wash  the  rice  in  three  or  four  waters, 
rubbing  it  between  the  hands  to  remove 
all  the  flour  there  may  be  about  it.  Set 
it  on  to  boil  in  the  water  and  when  half 
done  put  in  the  milk.  Keep  the  lid  on 
and  never  stir  it,  but  simmer  at  the  side 
of  the  range  and  it  will  not  be  apt  to 
bum. 

Serve  like  oatmeal  or  commeal  mush, 
in  a  bowl  with  another  bowl  full  of  milk. 


Cost  of  material — rice  4,  milk  2;  6 
cents  a  quart  or  3  or  4  portions — with 
milk  4  cents  each  person. 

402— Batter  Cakes  with  Syrup. 

No  eggL  needed, and  raised  with  yeast 

3  cups  flour — 12  ounces, 

2^  cupb  water  and  yeast. 

1  tablespoon  melted  lard. 

1  tablespoon  syrtip. 

-^  teaspoon  salt 

The  yeast  may  be  either  ^  cxrp  of  po» 
tato  yeast  or  ferment,  or  J  a  yeast  cake 
in  so  much  water.  Sift  the  flour  into  a 
pan,  make  a  hollow  in  the  middle,  strain 
in  the  yeast  and  water,  stir  around  to 
mix  in  the  flour  gradually  and  when  all 
melted  without  being  lumpy  add  the  other 
ingredients  and  beat  thoroughly.  Let 
sta.nd  in  a  warm  place  to  rise  6  hours, 
beat  up  again  and  bake.  When  the 
cakes  are  for  breakfast  mix  the  batter 
over  night  with  cold  water  according  to 
the  weather. 


Cost  of  material — flour  and  yeast  3, 
lard  and  syrup  2,  5  cents  for  3  pints,  24 
cakes  or  8  orders.  See  remarks  about 
buckwheat  cakes.  The  cakes  cost  noth- 
ing relatively,  it  is  the  syrup,  butter, 
and  made  of  baking  that  make  the  ex- 
pense. 

403— Flannel  Cakes—Best. 

4  cups  flour. 

4  cups  warm  water. 

•J  cup  ysast. 

1  tablespoon  syrup. 
Lard  size  of  an  e^^. 

2  eggs.     Little  salt. 

Mix  the  ^  flour  into  a  batter  with  tlie 
yeast  and  water  either  over  night,  if  it  is 
for  breakfast,  or  6  hours  before  supper. 
An  hour  before  it  is  time  to  bake  add 
the  other  ingredients — the  Lird  melted 
and  beat  well.     Bake  when  light  again. 

Cost  of  material — flour  3,  yeast  and 
syrup  1,  lard  2,  eggs  4;  10  cents  for  2 
quarts  or  30  cakes — 1  cent  each  perwa 
add  for  syrup  and  butter 


110 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


404— taking  Powder  Batter  C2kes. 

Same  iDgredients  as  * 'flannel  cakes," 
but  no  jreast.  Put  in  two  large  teaspoons 
of  baking  powder  and  beat  up  with  an 
e^  beater. 

405— White  Bread  Cakes. 


2  pressed -in  cups  bread  crumbs. 

IJ  cups  flour. 

8  cups  water. 

2  eggs.     Salt. 

1  teaspoon  baking  powder. 

Bemove  all  dark  crust  from  the  bread, 
and  then  soak  it  in  a  pint  of  the  water 
several  hours,  with  a  plate  to  press  it 
under.  Mash  smooth  and  add  the  flour, 
the  cup  of  milk  or  water,  eggs  and  pow- 
der. It  always  improves  batter  cakes  to 
beat  the  eggs  light,  before  mixing  them 
in.  No  shortening  nor  syrup  needed  for 
the  above. 


Cost  of  material — bread  2,  flour  5, 
eggs  and  powder  5/  8  cents  for  3  pints 
or  24  cakes. 


406— Graham   Bread  Cakes. 


Make  like  the  preceding,  with  part 
graham  flour,  and  the  crumbs  of  graham 
bread. 

407— Corn  Batter  Cakes. 


I  heaping  cup  white  com  meaL 
1  cup  flour — 4  ounces. 
1  tablespoon  melted  lard. 

1  egg.     Little  salt. 

2  cups  water. 

1  tablespoon  syrup. 

1  teaspoon  baking  powder. 

Mix  gradually  to  avoid  having  lumps 
in  the  batter.  Add  the  powder  last  and 
beat  up  well.  When  you  have  milk 
leave  out  the  syrup  as  the  cakes  will 
brown  well  enough  without  it. 

408— Corn  Cakes  Without  Flour. 

2  cups  com  meal  12  ounces. 
2  cups  water. 

Lard  size  of  an  egg. 


2  eggs.     Little  salt. 

1  teaspoon  baking  bowder. 

Boil  halt  the  water  {or  milk)  and  scald 
ihe  meal  with  it,  add  the  other  iogredi- 
ents,  the  powder  last. 

Note. — Buttermilk  aud  soda  can  be 
used  instead  of  baking  powder  in  the 
several  kinds  of  batter  cakes,  the  pro- 
portions are  1  teaspoonful  soda  to  2  €up3 
butter  milk-which  should  be  sour  enough 
to  counteract  that  amount. 


409— Rice  Batter   Cakes. 


I  heaping  pint  dry  cooked  rice. 

1  large  cup  milk  or  water. 

6  ounces  flour —  2  level  cups . 

2  eggs  (or  5  yolks  for  best  quality). 
2  tablespoons  syrup. 

1  teaspoon  baking  powder.  Salt 
The  amount  of  rice  to  be  cooked  spe- 
cially for  this  is  one  teacupful,  boiled  in 
a  pint  of  water,  with  the  steam  shut  in. 
If  ready  cooked  cold  rice,  warm  the  milk 
and  mash  the  rice  with  it  free  from 
Inmps,  adding  flour  at  the  same  time. 
Then  mix  in  the  other  ingredients;  the 
eggs  well  beaten  first.  Bake  on  a  grid- 
dle. Buttermilk  and  soda  can  be  used 
instead  of  the  powder  and  sweet  milk. 

410— Sugar  Tops  or  Cookies  Without 

Eggs. 

1  cup  butter  or  lard — 8  ounces. 
1  cup  sugar — 8  ounces. 

1  cup  water. 

2  teaspoons  baking  powder 
6  cups  flour — IJ  pounds 

Mix  butter  and  sugar  together,  then 
the  water  (not  too  cold)  then  the  flour 
with  the  powder  in  it.  The  softer  the 
dough  can  be  handled  the  better  the 
cakep  will  be.  Roll  out  thin,  sift  gran- 
ulated sugar  over,  run  the  rolling  pin 
over  again  to  make  the  sugar  stick;  cut 
out  and  bake. 


Note. — ^In  the  bakeries  baking-pow- 
der means  pulverized  carbonate  of  am^ 
monia.  It  is  the  most  effective  agent 
for  raising    cakes  because  it   all  evapo^ 


COOKINO  FOR    PROFIT. 


;i" 


rates  with  great  rapidity  and  great  force 
when  the  substance  it  is  incorporated 
with  is  exposed  to  the  action  of  beat 

In  making  sugar  cakes  or  cookies  some 
practice  is  necessary  to  produce  them 
properly  for  the  reason  that  the  softness 
of  the  butter  or  lard  used  makes  a  dif- 
ference  in  the  amount  of  flour  that  will 
be  taken  up  in  making  them  out,  and  if 
too  much  flour  the  cakes  come  out  like 
common  biscuits,  so  that  with  the  same 
receipt  to  work  by  one  person  will  make 
a  sugar  cake  twice  as  good  as  another. 
Another  thing  to  be  watched  is  the 
amount  of  baking  powder — whether  the 
common  household  bakinf>  powder  or 
ammonia  it  all  ai-  s  the  sime — because 
too  much  destroys  the  cakes  by  making 
them  too  light,  full  of  holes  and  spread 
all  over  the  pans,  while  with  too  little  or 
with  v/eak  powder  they  remain  harder 
than  crackers. 

411— Cookies— Good. 

2  cups  sugar — 1  pound. 

1  cup  butter — 8  ounces. 

6  eggs. 

1  cup  milk- 

4  teaspoons  baking  powder. 

8  cups  flour — 2  pounds. 

Soften  the  butter  and  rub  it  and  the 
sugar  together  until  well  mixed,  add 
the  eggs  one  at  a  time,then  the  milk  and 
flour  with  powder  in.  Sift  flour  oii  the 
table,  turn  out  the  lump  of  dough  and 
pat  it  smooth  and  compact,  keeping  if 
quite  soft.  Thn  roll  it  out  thin  as  the 
edge  of  a  dinner  plate,  dredge  granu- 
lated sugar  over  and  cut  out  the  cakes. 
Place  with  plenty  of  room  between  on 
the  baking  pans  and  bake. 

The  dough  when  it  has  been  suffi- 
ciently pressed  or  kneaded  together 
should  be  alio  we  1  to  rest  on  the  table  a 
minute  or  two  before  rolling:  out  which 
will  prevent  the  cakes  drawing  up  out  of 
shape  when  cut  out. 

412— Cookies— Richest  and  Best. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 
1  pound  of  butter. 


12  eggs. 

3  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Flour  to  make  soft  dough — 3  pounds. 

Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together 
the  same  as  for  pound  cake.  Beat  the 
eggs  and  mix  them  in,  then  the  powder, 
add  some  flavoring,  then  flour.  Let 
the  dough,  after  it  has  been  worked 
smooth,  stand  a  few  minutes  before  roll- 
ing it  out.  Sift  sugar  ovnr  the  sheet  of 
dough  before  cutting  out  the  cakes. 


413— Hard  Cookies  or  Sweet  Crackers. 


To  cut  in  fancy  shapes.     They  do  not 
spread  or  lose  form. 

12  ounces  of  powdered  sugar. 

6  ouncea  of  butter. 

6  eggp. 

Halt  cup  full  of  milk. 

1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder, 

2  pounds  of  flour. 

Lemon  or  cinnamon  extract  to  flavor. 


414 — German  Sugar  Tops, 
» 

Rich  cookies  sprinkled  with  giave 
sugar. 

1  cup  sugar — 8  ounces. 

^  cup  butter,  large— 4  ounces. 

3  eggs. 

J  cup  milk. 

2  teaspoons  baking  powder. 

4  cups  flour — 1  pound. 

Work  the  softened  butter  and  sugar 
together  to  a  cream,  the  same  as  for 
pound  cake,  beat  the  eggs  and  mix  them 
in,  then  the  milk,  and  the  flour  with  the 
powder  mixed  in  it.  Keep  the  dough 
as  soft  as  it  can  be  handled.  After  it 
has  been  pressed  and  worked  smooth  on 
the  table  let  it  alone  a  few  minutes  before 
rolling  out,  then  the  cakes  will  not  draw 
out  of  shape  when  cut. 

While  they  are  baking  mix  an  egg  and 
some  -syrup  together  in  a  cup.  add  some 
flavoring  extract,  brush  the  hot  cakes 
over  with  it  and  dredge  gravel  sugar  on 
top. 

Gravel  sugar  is  loaf  sugar  crushed  and 
the  dust  sifted  away,  then  again  sifted 
in  a  colander.     The  sugar  that  passes 


112 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


through    the   holes   of    the   colander  is 
gravel  sugar. 

415— Jumbles. 


These  are  cookies  in  ring  shapes  of  vari 
Otis  degrees  of  richness.  The  proper  shape 
is  ribbed  by  being  forced  out  of  a  tube 
with  a  saw  tooth  aperture.  Commonly, 
however,  they  are  only  rings  made  with 
a  ring  cookie  cutter.  Either  of  the  fore- 
going mixtures  for  sugar  cakes  or  cook- 
ies may  be  used  or  this,  which  is  rich 
and  contains  no  powder, 

1  pound  sugar. 
12  ounces  butter. 
8  eggs. 

Flavoring  extract — either  lemon,  or; 
ange  or  cinnamon. 

2  pound  scant  of  floor. 

416— Ginger   Snaps— Rich  Kind. 

8  ounces  of  butter. 

8  ounces  of  white  sugar. 

8  eggs. 

1  to  2  ounces  of  ground  ginger. 

1  tea  spoonful  of  baking  powder. 

1^  pounds  of  flour. 

Make  same  way  as  cookies.  Sift  gran- 
ulated sugar  over  the  sheet  of  dough 
and  run  the  rolling  pin  over  to  make  it 
adhere  before  cutting  out  the  cakes. 

417— Ginger  Snaps— English,  Richest. 

1-J  cups  sugar — 12  ounces. 

1  cop  butter — 8  ounces. 
8  eggs.* 

•J  cup  milk. 

2  tablespoons  ground  ginger. 
2  teaspoons  baking  powder, 
6  C'lps  flour — 1^  pounds. 

Mix  up  in  the  usual  way  for  cookies. 
Sift  sugar  over  before  cutting  out  the 
cakes.     These  will  keen  for  years. 


418— Brown    Ginger*    Coolcies,    Good 
Common. 

8  ounces  butter — 1  cup. 
8  ounces  sugar — 1  cup. 


8  ounces  black  molasses — a  small  tea- 
cap 

4  eggs. 

2  ounces  ground  ginger— 2  tablespoons. 

Half  cup  milk  or  water. 

4  teaspoons  baking  powder.  * 

2  pounds  flour,  or  enough  ta  make 
soft  dough. 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  they 
are  printed.  Roll  out  and  cut  with  a 
small  cutter. 


419— Ginger  Nuts  without  Eggs. 

8  ounces  bvitter — 1  cup. 

8  ounces  of  sugar — 1  cup. 

8  ounces  of  molasses — sma,ll  teacup. 

2  teaspoons  ground  ginger. 

2  teaspoons  baking  powder. 

Flour  to  make  soft  dough. 

Warm  the  butter,  sugar  and  molasses 
together  and  mix  them  well, when  nearly 
cold  agam  add  the  ginger,  powder  and 
flour.  Roll  pieces  of  the  dough  in  long 
thin  rolls  and  cut  off  in  pieces  large  as 
chemes.  Place  on  buttered  pans  with 
plenty  of  room  between.     Bake  light, 

420— Brandy  Snaps. 


1  pound  flour — 4  cups. 
8  ounces  butter — 1  cup 
8  ounces  sugar — 1  cup, 

2  ounces  ground  ginger. 
Lemon  extract  flavor. 

1  teaspoonful  soda — rounded  measoif^. 

IJ  pounds  light  molasses — 2  cups. 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour  as  in 
making  phort  paste,  and  add  the  ginger. 
Make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  the  flour 
and  put  in  the  sugar,  molasses  and  ex- 
tract; dissolve  the  soda  in  a  spoonful  of 
water  and  add  it  to  the  rest.  Stir  all 
together,  drawing  in  the  flour  gradually 
while  stirring. 

Drop  this  batter  with  a  teaspoon  on 
baking  pans — they  need  not  be  greased — 
and  Lake  in  a  slack  oven.  The  snaps 
run  out  flat  and  thin.  Take  them  off  be- 
fore they  get  cold  and  bend  them  to 
round  or  tubular  shape  on  a  new  broom 
handle. 


COOKING  FOR    PROFIT. 


113 


421— Soft  Ginger  Nuts— WItliout 

Eggs. 

Make  the  dough  as  for  brandy  snaps, 
and  add  to  it  8  ounces  more  fiour.  Roll 
it  out  lo  a  thick  sheet  and  cut  out  with 
a^mall  cutter. 

422— Sponge  Gingerbread— Best  Kind. 

8  ounces  molasses — a  teacupful, 

3  large  tablespoons  sugar — 3  ounces.. 

4  ounces  butter — J  cup. 
1  cup  milk  or  water. 

3  eggs. 

1  large  teaspoon  ground  ginger. 

1  large  teaspoon  baking  powder. 

1  pound  or  quart  of  flour. 

Melt  the  batter  in  the  milk  made 
warm,  and  pour  them  into  the  molasses 
and  sugar,  mix,  add  the  eggs,  the  gin- 
ger and  powder,  and  lastly  the  flour. 

It  is  a  great  improvement  lo  beat  the 
cake  thoroughly  with  a  spoon.  It  is  too 
soft  to  be  handled.  Spiead  it  an  inch 
thick  iu  a  buttered  pau  or  mold.  Bake 
twenty  or  thirty  minutes. 


Cost  of  material — molasses  3,  sugar 
2,  butter  8,  eggs  7,  ginger  1,  powder  1, 
flour  3 ;  25  cents  for  about  a  two  quart 
mold  or  about  20  cuts  in  a  thin  sheet  for 
hotel  supper. 

423— Common    Gingerbresd. 

12  ounces  black  molasses — a  co£fee 
cup. 

4  ounces  butter  or  lard — J  cup. 

1  egg. 

1  tablespoon  gi'ound  gin^r. 

1  small  teaspoon  soda. 

1  pound  or  quart  flour. 

1  cup  hot  water. 

Salt  when  lard  is  used. 

Melt  the  butter  and  stir  it  into  the 
molasses  and  thea  the  egg,  ginger  and 
soda. 

The  mixture  begins  to  foam.  Then 
stir  in  the  flour,  and  laatly  the  hot  water, 
a  little  at  a  time.  Bake  in  a  shallow 
pan. 


Cost  of  material — molasses  5,  lard  4, 
egg  2,  ginger  and  soda  3,  flour  3;  17 
cents  for  a  two- quart  pan. 


Black-Pudding  a  la  Franoaise. 

Chop  fine  a  few  large  onions,  and 
boil  them  in  salt  and  water,  with  a 
little  thyme  and  bay-leaf.  When 
done,  strain  them  and  remove  the 
seasoning  herbs.  Next  cut  up  in 
smaJl  dice  one  pound  of  inside  fat  of 
the  pig  or  "flare,"  and  mix  it  with 
the  chopped  onions  and  a  quart  of 
pig's  bloid  ;  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  some  ground  spice,  and  fill  up 
some  skins  cleaned  and  prepared  for 
the  purpose.  Tie  the  skin  with  string, 
so  that  each  pudding  may  be  the 
length  of  an  ordinary  sausage;  care 
being  taken  to  allow  a  little  loose 
space  between  each  individual  pudd- 
ing, or  the  skin  will  burst  during  the 
process  of  cooking.  Plunge  the 
puddings  in  water  at  boiling-point, 
and  let  them  remain  at  the  corner  of  the 
stove,but  without  boiling,  stirring  them 
occasionally  with  a  wooden  spoon. 


White-Pudding  a  la  Parisienne. 

Pound  in  a  mortar  twelve  ounces  of 
raw  chicken  with  four  ounces  of  leaf 
lard ;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a 
little  grated  nutmeg.  When  well 
pounded,  add  gradually  four  whites 
of  eg^  and  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of 
double  cream.  Remove  the  meat 
from  the  mortar,  and  pass  it  through 
a  wire  sieve.  Then  work  it  in  a 
basin  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  add 
to  it  three  ounces  of  trufiies  cut  in 
dice,  and  the  same  quantity  of  ox- 
tongue also  cut  in  small  dice.  Next 
put  this  forcemeat  into  a  biscuit-bag 
fitted  with  a  long  tin  pipe,  and  with 
it  fill  up  the  skins,  which  you  tie  as 
in  the  foregoing  recipe,  and  poach  in 
water  at  boiling-point  for  fifteen 
minutes,  taking  care  that  the  water 
does  not  boil. 


114 


SAN  FEANCISGO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


FINE  CONFECTIONERY  GOODS. 


424 — Peanut  Bar. 


1  pound  gi'anulated  sugar. 

f  pound  shelled  peanuts. 

Make  the  peanuts  hot  in  the  oven. 
Set  the  sugar  over  the  fire  in  a  kettle  to 
melt  without  any  water.  Stir  it  a  little. 
When  it  is  all  melted  and  of  the  color  of 
golden  syrup  or  light  molasses  mix  in 
the  peanuts,  pour  the  candy  into  a  but- 
tered shallow  pan  and  when  nearly  cold 
cut  into  strips  and  blocks. 

425— Mint  Drops. 

1  pound  pulverized  sugar. 

1  heaping  teaspoon  powdered  gum- 
arabic. 

5  tablespoons  water. 

1  tablespoon  essence  pepperment. 

Put  the  water  on  in  a  small  saucepan 
or  cup  and  the  gum  in  it  and  let  warm 
up.  When  the  gum  is  dissolved  put 
about  a  quarter  of  the  Eugar  in,  let  boil 
up  and  then  add  half  the  sugar  that  re- 
mains putting  it  in  gradually  without 
stirring.  When  it  boils  again  take  it  to 
the  table  and  stir  in  the  remaining  sugar 
and  after  that  the  flavoring.  Drop  por- 
tions the  size  of  quarter  dollars  on  bheets 
of  paper.  They  slip  off  the  paper  when 
cold.  It  may  be  neces'^ary  to  add  an- 
other tablespoon  or  two  of  sugar  to  give 
the  drops  consistency  enough  not  to  run 
on  the  paper,  yet  it  is  better  it  be  too 
thin  than  too  much  the  other  way. 

426— Wintergreen  Drops. 

The  same  as  the  preceding,  but  make 
them  pink  with  a  few  drops  of  cochineal 
or  vegetable  red  coloring  and  use  winter- 
green  extract  for  flavorins:.  These  drops 
have  a  smooth  surface  but  are  slightly 
granulated  inside.  Clove  drops,  cinna- 
mon drops  etc.,  same  way. 

427— Honey  Nougat. 

A  moist  candy  to  be  sliced,  wrapped 
in  wax  tissue  paper. 


4  tablespoons  strained  honey. 

2  ounces  almonds,  blanched. 

1  pound  flour  of  sugar,or  icing  sugar. 

Make  the  honey  hot  without  boiling, 
stir  in  the  sugar  a  little  at  a  time  until 
it  becomes  too  firm,  then  turn  out  on  the 
table  and  knead  in  more  sugar  and  also 
the  almonds,  which  must  be  dry.  When 
the  nougat  is  firm  enough  to  keep  its  form 
in  a  square  bar  like  a  brick  split  length- 
wise, sugar  the  outside,  roll  it  in  wax 
paper  and  keep  it  a  day  before  slicing  it 
up  tor  sale.  Wrap  the  little  cuts  like- 
wise in  wax  paper . 

428— Tutti-Frutti  Candy. 

Take  the  preceding  receipt  and  add  to 
it  a  teaspoon  of  vanilla, two  figs  cut  small 
and  an  equal  amount  of  raisins  seeded 
and  cut;  work  up  into  a  bar  with  all  the 
fine,  powdered  sugar  necessary  to  make 
it  firm,  cut  in  slices  and  wrap  in  wax 
tissue  paper. 

429— Burnt  Almonds. 


1  pound  shelled  almonds. 

1  pound  sugar. 

^  cup  water. 

1  level  teaspoon  cream  tarter. 

Set  the  almonds  in  a  round-bottom- 
ed candy  kettle  over  a  moderate  fire  and 
stir  them  until  they  begin  to  parch. 

Boil  the  sugar,  water  and  cream  tartar 
together,  making  a  clear  syrup,  pour  a 
little  over  the  almonds  in  the  kettle  and 
keep  them  moving  while  it  dries  to  su- 
gar on  them,  then  pour  on  more  and  so 
on  till  the  syrup  is  all  used  and  the  al- 
monds are  thickly  covered.  A  little  red 
coloring  can  be  added  to  the  syrup  near 
the  last  to  make  the  outside  coating  of 
that  color. 


430— Almond  Taffy— Brown. 

IJ  pounds  brown  sugar. 
8  ounces  best  fresh  butter. 
1  teacupful   of   vinegar  and   water — 
about  half  and  half. 

8  to  12  ounces  almonds. 

Scald  and  peel  the  almonds, split  them 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT. 


115 


and  spread  them  evenly  ou  tvro  large 
dishes  slightly  buttered.  Boil  the  other 
mgredienta  together  about  15  or  20  min- 
utes. Shake  tliem  together  at  first  but 
do  not  stir.  When  a  drop  of  the  candy 
sets  quite  hard  and  brittle  in  cold  water 
take  it  from  the  fire  and  pour  it  evenly  all 
over  the  almonds,  only  just  deep  enough 
to  cover  them.  This  kind  cannot  be 
stirred  nor  pulled,  as  the  butter  separates 
from  the  sugar  which  then  turns  grainy. 
Mark  it  off  with  a  knife  while  cooling, 
and  when  cold  cut  in  strips  and  wrap 
them  in  wax  paper. 

431— Almond  Candy— White. 

•^  pound  almonds. 

1  pound  granulated  sugar, 

1  small  cup  water. 

1  rounded  teaspoon  powdered  gum 
arable. 

1  level  teaspoon  cream  tartar. 

Little  extract  of  rose. 

Dissolve  the  gum  in  the  water -made 
warm,  add  the  sugar  and  cream  tartar 
and  boil  without  stirring  15  or  20  min- 
utes. When  a  drop  in  cold  water  sets 
nearly  hard  so  that  it  can  only  just  be 
presssed  flat  between  the  finger  and 
thumb  take  the  kettle  off  the  fire.  Drop 
the  flavoring  by  spots  over  the  surface, 
give  the  candy  only  one  or  two  turns 
with  a  spoon  to  mix  it  in,  then  pour  it 
into  slightly  buttered  pans,  in  thin 
sheets.  Push  the  split  almonds  into  the 
warm  candy  with  the  fingers.  Mark  it 
before  it  gets  cold  for  breaking  by  rolling 
over  it  the  thin  edge  of  a  thin  dinner 
plate.  Sliced  cocoanut  can  be  used  in- 
stead of  almonds. 

432 — Cocoanut   Cream   Squares. 

1  pound  granulated  sugar, 

8  ounces  cocoanut  either  fresh  grated 
or  desicated. 

A  small  half  cup  water, 

Set  the  sugar  and  water  over  the  fire 
in  a  small  bright  kettle  and  boil  about  5 
minutes,  or  till  the  syrup  bubbles  up 
thick  and  ropes  from  the  spoon,  and  do 
not    stir  it.     Then  put   in  the  cocoanut, 


stir  to  mix,  and  when  it  begins  to  look 
white  pour  it  immediately  into  a  shallow 
tra  pan.  As  soon  as  it  is  set  solid  mark 
it  off,  and  cut  in  little  squares  when 
cold.  The  same  kind  may  be  colored 
red,  and  also  be  made  wtth  chocolate. 

433— Chocolate  Cream    Drops. 

^  pound  fine  icing  sugar. 

1  teaspoon  powdered  gum  arable. 

2  tablespoons  water. 

1  teaspoon  extract  vanilla. 

^  pound  common  chocolate. 

Cut  up  the  cake  of  chocolate  into  a 
tin  cup  and  set  in  a  shallow  pan  of  hot 
water  to  melt  by  heat  alone  without  ad- 
ding any  water. 

Dissolve  the  gum  arable  in  the  two 
tablespoons  of  boUing  water  in  a  small 
bowl,  then  stir  in  fine  powdered  sugar 
enough  to  make  it  a  stiff  dough,  adding 
the  vanilla  at  the  same  time.  Turn  it  on 
the  table,  rull  into  a  cord,  cutoff  in  balls 
size  of  hazel  nuts  and  dip  these  in  the 
melted  chocolate.  Set  on  a  pan  or  dish 
to  harden.     Makes  75  to  100. 


434— Chocolate  Creams— Best. 


Make  the  white  inside  the  same  as  for 
the  preceding  and  make  the  balls  up  in 
any  shape  desired,  Ins^^ead  of  common 
chocolate  merely  melted  dip  them  in  this 
chocolate  icing; 

1  cup  sugar 

4  tablespoons  water. 

2  ounces  common  chocolate. 

Grate  the  chocolate  and  set  it  on  with 
the  sugar  and  water  to  melt  gradually 
in  a  place  not  hot  enough  to  burn  it. 
VVhon  it  has  at  length  become  boiling 
hot  beat  it  to  thoroughly  mix,  and  dip 
in  the  articles  to  be  glazed  while  it  is 
hot. 


435 — Chocolate  Cream  Dominoes. 


The  white  cream  candy  same  as  for 
chocolate  drops.  Roll  it  out  thin  and 
pour  a  layer  of  melted  chocolate  upon 
it.     Cut  v^hen  cold. 


116 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


436- Walnut  Creams. 


1  pound  fine  icing  sugar. 

2  heaped  teaspoons  powdered  giira 
arabic. 

5  tablespoons  water. 

3  doz  walnut  kernels. 

1  teaspoon  extract  vanilla. 

Put  a  little  sugjar  in  the  water  to 
make  a  syrup,  and  the  gum  in  it,  stir 
over  the  fire  until  the  gum  is  dissolved. 
Take  it  off  and  work  in  the  powdered 
sugar  gradually  with  a  wooden  paddle. 
Add  the  vanilla.  The  more  it  is  stirred 
and  beaten  with  the  paddle  the  whiter 
and  finer  the  candy  becomes.  At  last 
turn  out  the  lumps  on  to  the  table — it  is 
like  soft  white  dough — and  roll  it  in  one 
long  roll,  cut  off  slices,  stick  a  half  of  a 
walnut  kernel  in  each  piece  and  piuch 
the  paste  up  to  hold  it,  by  shaping  it  in 
the  hollow  of  the  left  hand.  Lay  the 
finished  creams  on  a  tray  to  dry.  This 
makes  about  6  dozen.  The  sugar  is  not 
boiled,  only  the  hot  gum  syrup  is  used. 

437— Date  Creams. 


The  same  as  the  preceding  kind  with 
dates  cut  in  pieces  to  use  instead  of  wal- 
nuts. 


438— Fig  Creams. 


Cut  each   fig  in  six   or  eight  and  pro- 
ceed as  for  walnut  creams. 


439— Angelica    Creams. 

Flavor  the  cream  candy  with  extract 
of  strawberry  instead  of  vanilla.  Cut 
green  angelica  or  any  other  French  can- 
died fruit  of  a  rich  color  and  use  as  di- 
directed  tor  walnut  creams. 

440— Cocoanut  Cream  Balls, 

1  pound  pulverized  sugar. 

1  teaspoon  powdered  gum  arabic. 
5  tablespoons  water. 

2  tablespoons  cocoanut,  minced. 
2  tablespoons  currants,  minced. 
1  teaspoon  lemon  extract. 


Dissolve  the  gum  in  the  water  hot  and 
stir  in  the  sugar  gradually,  flavor,  fruit 
and  cocoanut.  Work  the  paste  on  the 
table  with  sugar  until  it  is  firm  enough, 
roll  into  one  long  cord  half  an  inch  thick, 
cut  off  pieces  and  roll  into  balls  a  little 
larger  than  cherries.  Sugar  well  outside 
and  let  dry.  The  same  can  be  made 
with  candy  colored  pink.  The  foregoing 
kinds  are  all  easy  to  make  because  there 
is  no  boiling  of  sugar. 


441— Fine  White  Sugar  Candy-Pu'*ed. 

1  pound  white  sugar, 

•J  cup  water. 

•J  teaspoon  cream  tartar. 

1  ounce  butter. 

Oil  of  peppermint  or  lemon  or  other 
flavoring. 

Boil  all  together,  except  the  flavoring, 
about  15  minutes.  Try  by  dropping  a 
little  cold  water.  It  must  set  hard  to 
be  done.  Do  not  stir  it  at  all,  but  pour 
on  a  buttered  dish  and  flavor  when 
cool  enough  to  handle.  Pull  it  till  it  is 
quite  white. 

442— Lemon  Car.dy— Clear. 

1  pound  granulated  sugar. 

1  teacup  water. 

1  rounded  teaspoon  powdered  -gum 
arabic. 

J  teaspoon  cream  tartar. 

Oil  of  lemon,  few  drops. 

Dissolve  tbe  powdered  gum  in  the 
water  made  warm  for  the  purpose.  Then 
add  to  the  gum- water  the  sugar  and 
cream  of  tartar  and  set  on  to  boil.  Do 
not  stir  the  syrup  after  it  is  once  well 
mixed.  It  should  boil  about  15  minutes. 
Then  try  it  by  dropping  a  little  in  cold 
water.  VV  hen  the  lump  retains  its  shape 
pretty  well  and  can  be  worked  between 
the  fingers  like  gum  paste  it  is  ready. 
Pour  it  into  the  buttered  plate  or  in  little 
molds  of  fish  shapes  and  the  like  or  into 
a  thin  sheet  to  be  used  broken  for  mixed 
candies.  The  flavoring  may  be  dropped 
in  spots  in  the  kettle  just  before  turning 
out,  and  stirred  around  once. 


COOKING  FOB    PROFIT. 


117 


443~Lemon  Cream  Candy. 

Take  the  same  iogredients  as  for  the  le- 
mon candy  preceding  and  bull  to  the  same 
degree — that  is,  when  the  drop  in  a  cup 
of  cold  water  sets  brittle  around  the  thin 
edges  but  still  can  be  pressed  to  any 
shape  between  the  thumb  and  finger — 
then  add  the  flavoring  and  begin  to  stir 
it  rapidly  with  a  spoon.  In  from  10  to 
20  turns  it  will  begin  to  turn  white 
and  creamy.  Then  pour  it  quickly  on 
to  a  buttered  pan,  or  into  cream  bon-bon 
molds  made  of  plaster  paris  or  formed 
in  a  tray  of  starch. 

444 — Rose  Candy — Clear. 

1  pound  granulated  sugar. 

1  teacup  water. 

1  rounded  teaspoon  powdered  gum 
Arabic 

^teaspoon  cream  tartar. 

Red  coloring,  few  drops. 

Rose  extract  to  flavor. 

Dissolve  the  gum  in  the  hot  water,put 
in  the  sugar  and  cream  tartar  and  boil. 
When  it  has  boiled  about  ten  minutes 
try  a  drop  in  a  cup  of  cold  water.  When 
it  sets  hard  around  the  edges  but  still  so 
that  the  entire  drop  can  be  pressed  to  any 
shape  between  the  finger  and  thumb  it  is 
ready.  Take  it  from  the  fire,  drop  in  the 
flavoring  and  cochineal  and  stir  around 
only  once  or  twice  to  mix.  Pour  it  into 
the  buttered  plate,  or  shapes,  or  into  a 
shallow  pan,  to  be  broken  and  used  for 
mixed  candies. 


445— Rose  Cream  Candy. 

The  same  ingredients  and  proportions 
as  the  preceding  receipt.  Boil  to  the 
same  degree.  Then  take  the  kettle  from 
the  fire,  let  it  stand  5  minutes  to  lose 
some  of  its  heat,  add  red  coloring  enough 
to  make  it  pink,  and  a  few  drops  of  rose 
extract.  Have  a  buttered  dish  ready, 
stir  the  candy  rapidly  with  a  spoon  till  it 
begins  to  change  its  bright  appearance  to 
a  dull  color,  that  is  a  sign  of  setting,then 
pour  it  immediately  into  the  dish,  or  into 


cream  bon-bon   molds  made  of  plaster 
paris,  or  formed  in  a  tray  of  starch. 

446— Butter  Scotch. 


1^  pounds  light  bmwn  sugar. 

^  pound  best  fresh  butter. 

J  teacup  vinegar. 

J  teacup  water. 

Put  all  on  to  boil  in  a  candy  kettle, 
stir  at  first  to  mix  well  but  not  alter- 
wards.  When  it  has  boiled  10  minutes 
try  a  drop  in  a  cup  of  cold  water.  When 
it  sets  hard  and  brittle  so  that  it  breaks 
between  the  thumb  and  finger,  pour  it 
in  a  thin  sheet  in  a  buttered  dish  to  cooL 
This  kind  cannot  be  stirred  nor  pulled, 
as  the  butter  beparates  from  the  sugar, 
which  then  granulates.  Cut  in  squares 
when  cold  and  wrap  the  squares  in  wax 
tissue  paper. 

J,    447— Caramels— Lemon. 


.  1  pound  granulated  sugar. 

J  cup  water, 

1  ounce  butter — guinea-egg  size. 

4  drops  oil  of  lemon. 

Boil  all  together,  except  the  flavoring 
about  10  or  15  minutes.  Try  by  drop- 
ping a  little  in  cold  water.  It  must  set 
hard  and  brittle.  Do  not  stir  it  at  all 
except  two  turns  to  mix  in  the  oil  of  lem- 
on. Pour  into  a  buttered  •shallow  pan, 
mark  o£f  while  cooling,  and  cut  io  square 
caramels.     Wrap  in  wax  paper. 


448— Chocolate   Caramels. 


1  pound  sugar — either  brown  or  white 
will  do. 

1  ounce  butter. 
Half  cup  milk. 

2  ounces  grated  chocolate. 
Vanilla  flavoring. 

Set  the  milk,  butter  and  sugar  on  to 
boil,  and  stir  in  the  grated  chocolate  and 
flavoring.  After  that  do  not  stir  the 
mixture  again  or  it  will  go  to  sugar  in 
the  dish.  Boil  about  10  minutes.  When  a 
drop  in  cold  water  sets  rather  hard  but 
not   brittle  pour  the  candy  into  a   dish 


118 


SAN  FRANCISCO  H02EL  GAZETTES 


well  buttered.  Mark  in  little  square 
blocks  when  set.  Warm  the  dish  or  tin 
tray  a  little  if  the  candy  sticks . 

449->Molasses  Candy  to  Pull. 

1  large  coffee  cup  molasses. 

12  ounces  sugar,  either  brown  or 
white. 

One-third  cup  vinegar. 

Half  cup  water. 

1  ounce  butter. 

Put  all  in  a  kettle  and  boil  15  or  20 
minutes'  Try  in  cold  water.  It  must 
boil  till  the  drops  set  brittle  and  fairly 
snap  between  the  fingers.  Then  pour  it 
on  buttered  plates,     Pull. 

'  Molasses  candy  if  not  pulled  but  merely 
allowed  to  set  on  dishes  is  improved  by 
having  about  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda 
stirred  in  after  it  has  been  taken  from 
the  fire  and  before  it  is  poured  out.  Fla- 
vorings may  be  added  at  the  same  time, 

450— Chocolate  Candy  to  Pull. 

ounces  sugar. 

ounces  light  colored    molasses  or 
Byrup. 

Half  cup  cream . 

J  ounce  grated  chocolate. 

Vanilla  to  flavor. 

Boil  the  cream,  molasses  and  sugar 
together  for  about  15  minutes,  then 
throw  in  the  chocolate  and  boil  till  the 
candy  sets  brittle  in  cold  water.  Pour 
on  dishes,  flavor  when  cold  enough  to 
handle  and  pull. 

451— Fig  Paste. 

3  pints  water. 

IJ  pounds  sugar. 

3  ounces  com  starch. 

Juice  of  half  a  lemon. 

6  ounces  glucose. 

Boil  sugar  and  water  together  and 
thicken  with  the  starch  same  as  in  mak- 
ing a  thickened  pudding  sauce,  then  put 
in  the  glucose  and  lemon  juice  and  cook 
at  the  side  of  the  range  about  15  min- 
utes.    Color  a  portion  of  it  pink.     When 


nearly  cold    mould  it  into   any  form  and 
roll  in  powdered  sugar. 

452— Frosted  Grapes. 

Take  grapes  of  two  colors  as  red  To- 
kays and  white  Muscadels  and  pull  the 
bunches  apart  into  clusters  of  three  or 
four  grapes  each.  Prepare  a  platter  with 
the  sort  of  pulverized  sugar  known  as 
fine  granulated,  and  make  it  warm. 
Whip  some  white  of  eggs  in  a  shallow 
bowl,  dip  the  grapes  in  it,  lay  them  on 
the  sugar  and  sift  more  sugar  on  top. 
Lay  them  on  sieves  to  di-y. 


453— Grapes  Gl^ed  with  Sugar. 

Divide  some  bunches  of  grapes  into 
small  clusters. 

Put  into  a  deep  saucepan, 

1  pound  sugar. 

A  large  cup  water. 

J-  teaspoon  cre^m  tartar. 

Stir  to  dissolve  the  sugar,  then  set  it 
on  to  boil,  as  if  for  candy. 

When  the  syrup  has  boiled  10  minutes 
try  a  drop  in  cold  water.  When  it  sets 
so  that  it  is  hard  to  press  between  finger 
and  thumb  and  the  edges  of  drops  are 
hard  and  brittle  it  is  ready. 

Take  it  from  the  fire,  dip  the  clusters 
of  grapes  in  (without  ever  stirring  the 
candy)  and  lay  them  on  dishes  slightly 
greased  to  diy.  Should  the  candy  be- 
come set  in  the  kettle  it  may  have  a 
spoonful  or  two  of  water  added  and  be 
made  hot  again. 

454 — Frosted  Oranges. 

Make  plain  white  icing  and  use  it  to 
dip  orange  slices  in  just  when  it  has  be- 
come too  thick  with  beating  not  to  run 
off,  and  yet  thin  enough  to  settle  to 
smoothness.  Or,  if  so  good  that  it  has 
already  become  too  firm,  thin  it  by  add- 
ing the  white  of  another  t^g  or  part  of 
one. 

Prepare  the  oranges  by  peeling  and 
separating  by  the  natural  divisions,  with- 
out breaking  the  covering  or  getting  the 
pieces  wet.     Have   a  long  splinter  or 


COOKINO  FOB   PROFIT. 


119 


thin  skewer  ready  for  each  one, and  fill  a 
large  bowl  with  sngar  or  salt  and  stick 
them  in.  Stick  the  point  of  a  skewer 
into  the  edge  of  the  orange  section,  dip 
into  the  frosting,  push  the  other  end  of 
the  skewer  into  the  bowl  of  salt,  and  let 
the  pieces  hang  ovei  the  edge  of  the 
bowl   in  a  warm  place  to  dry. 


456— Oranges  Glazed  with  Sugar. 

Oranges  divided  and  put  through  the 
Bame  course  as  grapes  glazed  with  sugar. 

There  has  been  no  calculation  of  the  cost 
of  the  articles  in  this  division  which  come 
under  the  head  of  candies,  because  they 
are  not  necessary  in  counting  the  cost  of 
meals  and,  further,  because  they  can  be 
purchased  cheaper  than  they  can  be 
made  in  small  qnantities.  For  the  man- 
ufacturers have  learned  now  to  use  large 
proportions  of  glucose  instead  of  sugar 
and  honey,  and  likewise  make  savings 
jn  their  flavorings  and  in  buying  large 
quantities.  There  are  times,  however, 
when  it  is  desirable  to  have  a  candy 
party  in  the  house  and,  as  people  say, 
"it  is  nice  to  know  how." 


457— Almond  Macaroons. 


8  ounces  granulated  sugar. 

4  whites  of  eggs. 

8  ounces  almonds. 

1   teaspoon  lemon  juice  or  pinch   of 
cream  tartar. 

Put  the  sugar  and  tT70  of  the  whites 
in  a  deep  bowl  together,  and  beat  with 
a  wooden  paddle  about  fifteen  minutes, 
then  add  another  white  and  beat  again, 
then  the  lemon  juice  and  then  the  last 
white.  Crush  the  almonds  by  rolling 
them  with  the  rolling-pin  on  the  table. 
They  i.eed  not  be  blanched  (freed  from 
the  skins)  unless  so  preferred.  When 
they  are  reduced  to  meal  mix  them  with 
the  contents  of  the  bowl.  This  mixture, 
as  well  as  cake  icing,  should  always  be 
started  with  bowl  and  ingredients  all 
cold ,  for  if  warm  they  cannot  be  beaten 
to  the  requisite  degree  of  firmness. 


Drop  portions  size  of  cherries  on  bak- 
ing pans  previously  greased  and  then 
wiped  dry.  Bake  in  a  slack  oven,  until 
light  brown.  Too  much  heat  in  the  oven 
will  cause  them  to  melt  and  they  should 
be  little  more  than  dried  pale  brown. 


Cost  of  material — sugar  5,  almonds 
20,  white  of  eggs  and  acid  6;  31  cents  for 
4  dozen.  Turn  to  star  kisses,  No.  5, 
and  note  the  difference  in  cost  made  by 
the  almonds. 


45d— Common  Boxed  Macaroons. 

12  ounces  almonds. 

8  ounces  granulated  sugar. 

4  ounces  flour. 

4  eggs.     Pinch  of  salt. 

1  teaspoon  ammonia. 

Crush  the.  almonds  without  taking  ofP 
the  skins,  with  a  rolling.pin  upon  the 
table.  Mix  them  and  the  powder,  su- 
gar and  flour  together  in  a  bowl.  Drop 
the  eggs  in  the  middle  and  mix  the  whole 
into  a  rather  sof »;  dough .  Place  in  lumps 
size  of  cherries  on  baking  pans  very 
slightly  gre-^sed.  Bake  in  a  slack  oven 
light  brown.  A  few  bitter  almonds  or 
peach  kernels  mixed  in  improves  them. 

Cost  of  material — 45  cents  for  2 
pounds  gr  about  6  dozen. 

459— Meringue  Paste. 

This  in  various  forms  has  to  be  men- 
tioned often  in  these  colmmns.  It  is  al- 
ways white  of  egg  and  sugar,  but  is 
sometimes  soft  meringue  as  on  lemon 
pies,  aad  some  time^  nearly  all  sugar  as 
in  cake  icing  and  **kisses." 

460— Meringues  a  fa  Cream. 


1  pound  of  granulated  sugar. 

6  whites  of  eggs. 

Flavoring  extract. 

3  drops  of  acetic  acid,  or  a  pinch  of 
tartaric,  or  a  little  lemon  juice. 

Put  half  the  whites  in  a  bowl  without 
beating,    and  all   the  sugar  with   them 


120 


SAN  FRANGISGO  HOIEL  GAZEITE'S 


and  beat  together  with  a  woodeo  spoon 
or  paddle.  It  may  save  half  the  labor 
and  insures  success  to  have  all  the  uten- 
sils and  ingredients  quite  cold  to  begin 
with.  It  quickens  the  process  if  the 
beating  can  be  done  with  two  paddles, 
using  both  hands  as  regular  woi-kmen 
do.  The  bowl  should  be  a  deep  one 
holding  two  quarts. 

The  sugar  and  t^  at  first  are  as  stiff 
as  dough.  Beat  rapidly  and  constantly 
for  about  15  minutes,  when  it  should  be 
white  and  rather  firm  cake  icing.  Now 
add  the  remaining  3  whites  of  eggs,  one 
at  a  time,  and  beat  a  few  minutes  be- 
tween each  one,  but  before  the  last  one 
is  added  put  in  the  acid  and  the  flavor- 
ing. 

The  whole  time  of  beating  is  about  25 
minutes.  An  essential  point  is  to  beat 
the  icing  after  the  addition  of  each  white 
until  it  will  again  draw  up  in  peaks  after 
the  paddle  is  lifted  from  it,  except  the 
last  white  which  should  not  be  beaten 
much  as  it  fonuR  the  gloss  and  smooth- 
ness on  the  meringues  when  they  are 
baked. 

Have  ready  some  strips  of  writing 
paper  two  inches  wide  and  pieces  of 
boards  (not  pine)  to  bake  the  meringues 
on.  Plac&  spoonfuls  egg-shaped  on  the 
strips  of  paper,  not  too  close,  smooth 
them  with  a  knife,  place  the  strips  on  the 
boards  and  dry-bake  them  with  the  oven 
door  partly  open.  They  need  to  bake 
nearly  or  quite  half  an  hour.  They  can 
be  lifted  off  the  paper  when  cold."  The 
boards  prevent  a  cruet  forming  on  the 
bottom  and  the  soft  rem<iinder  inside  can 
be  scooped  out.  Pill  the  meringues  with 
whipped  cream  sweetened  and  flavored, 
or  with  wine  jelly,  and  either  place  two 
together  side  by  side  with  melted  candy 
or  icing,  like  an  open  walnut  shell,  and 
pile  whipped  cream  or  chopped  jelly  upon 
them.  These  meringues  likewise  look 
well  singly  as  cups  filled  with  brtght 
jellies  of  different  colors  and  with  ice 
creams. 

Cost  of  material — 20  cents  for  30  sin- 
gle meringues  or  "kisses."    Place  two 


together  with  whipped  cream,  sweetened 
and  flavored,  inside,  cost  of  filling  10' 
cents;  30  cents  for  15,  or  two  cent?  each 
on  an  average.  But  the  timft  and  labor 
are  more  than  the  material. 


461— Rase  Meringues. 

Having  made  the  meringue  paste  ac- 
cording to  the  preceding  directions,  color 
it,  or  a  part  of  it  a  delicate  pink  and  fla- 
vor with  rose  extract.  Drop  with  the 
sack  and  tube. pieces  like  large  marbles  on 
baking  pans  previously  greased  and  then 
wiped  dry,  and  bake  slowly  without  col- 
or. These  rise  rounded  and  nearly  hol- 
low and  have  a  gauzy  appearance  when 
rightly  baked. 

Note — Sometimes  the  first  panful  of 
any  c»f  these  varieticb  put  into  the  range 
will  run  together  and  melt  and  come  out 
worthless,  and  the  next  came  out  perfect 
meringues,  or  one  side  of  the  pan  will  be 
spoiled  and  the  remainder  good.  This 
shows  that  the  baking  is  the  critical  part^ 
of  the  making,and  that  is  what  we  never 
can  teach  by  word  of  mouth.  At  a  cer- 
tain gentle  heat  the  egg  in  the  meringues 
cooks  and  dries  in  shape,  but  at  a 
higher  degree  the  sugar  melts  and  runs 
to  candy  in  bubbles.  At  an  insufficient 
degree  of  heat  the  mewugue  dries  as  it 
would  in  the  sun  and  does  not  swell  and 
chanfi^e  its  appearanca  In  the  brick 
oven  after  the  bread  has  been  withdrawn 
is  the  proper  place  to  bake  meringues. 

462— Chocolate  Meringues. 

There  is  nothing  of  the  kind  cjioicer 
or  more  fragile  than  these.  Only  a  slight 
change  in  the  ingredients  from  the  fore- 
going varieties. 

1  pound  granulated  sugar. 
6  whites  eggs. 

3  ounces  gnted  common  chocolate — 
si  heaping  cupful. 

2  teaspoons  vanilla  extract. 

Beat  up  the  icing  as  directed  for  me- 
ringues a  la  creme,  and  when  it  is  fin- 
ished mix  in  the  chocolate  thoroughly. 
Drop  round  portions  with  the  sack  and 


COOKING  FOR   PROFIT. 


121 


tube  on  baking  pans  and  bake  at  a  very 
gentle  beat.  These  rise  rounded  like 
a  mushroom,  and  nearly  hollow.  They 
slip  from  the  pans  easily  when  cold. 

Cost  ot  material — see  star  kisses  and 
meringues  a  la  creme. 


463— Almond  Rings  and  Fingers. 

Make  the  same  as  the  preceding  with 
8  ounces  of  blanched  almonds  minced 
very  small  instead  of  chocolate.  Put  a 
smaller  tube  in  the  forcing  sack,  and 
form  finger  shapes  and  rings  of  the  al- 
mond meringue  paste  on  baking  pans, 
and  bake  them  in  a  v&rj  slack  oven. 
These  all  bake  light  and  nearly  hollow 
and  have  a  fine  glazed  surface. 

Note — The  foregoing  varieties,  which 
can  all  be  made  out  of  one  large  bowl  of 
meringue  paste,  form  a  handsome  as- 
sortment for  the  cake  stands,  to  build 
pyramids,  to  place  around  glass  bowls 
of  fruit,  to  decorate  cakes  and  to  fill 
icing  or  nougat  baskets  with. 

464>~icing  and  Ornamenting  Calces. 

Fruit  cakes  always  need  two  coats  of 
icing.  Common  glaze  or  sugar  only, 
melted  with  white  of  egg,  may  do  for  the 
first,  and  it  to  be  very  nice,  mix  some 
minced  almond  in  it.  The  first  coat  will 
dry  in  an  hour  in  a  warm  place. 

Cake  icing  is  the  same  as  the  star 
kiss  mixture  or  meringue,  at  No.  5,  only 
it  is  surer  to  beat  sugar  and  whites  to- 
gether in  a  bowl,  and  powdered  sugar 
makes  the  smoothest  icing.  Put  into  a 
deep  bowl  two  whites  and  a  cupful  of 
sugar,  which  makes  a  stiff  paste,  and 
beat  them  with  a  wooden  paddle  fifteen 
minutes.  Add  some  flavoring  extract. 
To  smooth  over  the  cake  cut  a  strip  o 
writing  paper  an  inch  wide  and,  stretch- 
ing it  between  the  hands,  draw  the  edge 
over  the  top  of  the  cake. 

To  make  a  border  put  some  of  the 
ing  into  a  comet  made  of  writing  paper 
and  pinned.      Clip  of  the  point,  and   the. 


pipe  of  icing  that  is  pressed  out  can  be 
laid  on  the  edge  of  the  cake  like  a  braid 
Leaves  and  flowers  can  be  bought  ready 
made. 


465~Wine  and  Fruit  Jellies. 


To  make  the  brilliantly  clear,  many- 
hned,and  delicately  flavored  jellies  that 
are  found  on  the  fables  of  the  best  hotels 
and  at  the  confectioners, the  simple  lemon 
jelly  has  first  to  be  made  in  perfection.  It 
is  technically  called  stock  jelly,  because, 
when  finished, it  can  be  mixed  with  wine 
or  other  liquors  and  cordials,or  be  flavored 
and  colored  to  make  as  many  varities  as 
may  be  desired. 

It  may  be  as  well  to  explain  that  these 
jellies  are  transient  and  will  not  keep 
over  two  or  three  days,  not  like  the 
boiled  fruit  jellies,  but  of  the  same  nature 
as  the  old-fashioned  calf's  foot  jelly, 
made  now  with  gelatine. 

Once  making  stock  jelly  should  serve 
either  for  a  large  party  or  two  or  there 
meals. 

For  3  quarts  of  jelly  take: 

3^  quarts  of  water. 

ij  pounds  of  sugar. 

4  ounces  of  gelatine 

5  lemons— juice  of  all,  thin  shaved 
rinds  of  2  or  3,  according  to  size. 

1  ounce  of  whole  spices— cloves,  mace 
and  stick  cinnamon. 

6  whites  of  eggs  to  clarify  it 

Put  the  water  in  a  bright  brass  kettle, 
add  all  the  other  ingredients — the  lemon 
juice  squeezed  in  without  the  seeds,  the 
yellow  rind  pared  very  thin,  and  the 
white  of  eggs  beaten  a  little  with  some 
water  mixed  in  first  The  clean  egg 
sheUs  may  be  put  in  also  to  assist  in  the 
clarification.  Use  the  sheet  gelatine  that 
floats,  for  preference.  Then  set  the  ket- 
tle on  the  side  of  a  range  and  let  it  slow- 
ly come  to  a  boil  with  occasional  stirring. 

Let  it  boil  about  half  an  hour,  and 
above  all,  to  avoid  the  trouble  and  waste 
of  having  to  boil  it  again,  be  sure  that 
the  white  foam  of  egg  on  top  becomes 
thoroughly  cooked  so  that   it    will  go 


y' 


122 


SAN  JfBANClSO  EOIEL  GAZETTES 


down  and  mix  with  the  jelly  again  like 
so  much  meal.  Sometimes,  to  accomplish 
this,  as  a  lid  cannot  be  kepi  on  without 
its  boiling  over,  it  is  necessary  to  set  the 
kettle  in  the  oven,  a  few  minutes  to 
get  heat  enough  on  top. 

Then  run  it  through  a  jelly  bag  sus- 
pended from  a  hook.  The  boiling  hav- 
ing been  properly  attended  to,  there 
should  not  be  the  slightest  difficulty  in 
getting  it  to  run  through  not  only  clear 
but  bright  and  transparent  as  glass.  The 
first  pouring  coats  the  inside  of  the  fil- 
tering bag  with  the  coagulated  white  of 
egg,and  each  succeeding  running  through 
brightens  the  jelly. 

It  may  be  tet  down  as  a  rule  that  this 
kind  of  jelly  cannot  be  successfully  made 
without  more  or  less  lemon  juice,  or  some 
acid  equivalent — it  will  not  run  through 
a  filtering  bag  without.  A  cheaper 
quality  can  be  made  with  less  sugar  and 
lemons. 

The  stock  having  been  made,  it  can 
now  be  divided  into  as  many  kinds  as 
may  be  wished.  But  the  stock  jelly  is 
already  good  and  mildly  flavored  and 
care  should  be  taken  not  to  over  season 
it,  or  injure  its  bright  appearance. 

Lemon  extract  cannot  be  put  into  jelly 
because  it  makes  a  milky  appearance  and 
dims  its  brilliancy.  Orange  extract  the 
same .  IMost  of  the  other  extracts  can  be 
used  to  flavor.  Use  wine  in  small  pro- 
portion to  mix  with  some  of  the  stock, 
and  color  deep  red ,  but  run  through  the 
jelly  b-ig  again  while  it  is  yet  warm. 
Flavor  some  with  vanilla,  and  color  it 
either  amber  or  brown  with  burnt  sugar. 
Flavor  some  with  strawberry  and  color  it 
pink,  and  leave  some  plain,  pale  yellow. 

Cost  of  matenal — sugar  15,  gelatine 
average  40,  lemons  10,  spices  10,  whites 
10;  85  or  90  cents  for  3  quarts  or  50  sau- 
cers or  glasses  for  dessert. 

466— One  Quart  of  Jelly. 

The  rule  is  for  good  quality. 
1  quart  of  water, 


IJ  ounces  of  g;elatine. 
8  ounces  of  sugar. 
1  or  2  lemons. 

1  teaspoonful  of  whole   mixed    spices. . 

2  whites  ofegg;s  and  the  clean  shells. 
But  a  cupful  of  water  must  be   added 

to  allow  for  evaporation  and  loss,  unless 
it  is  intended  to  add  ^  pint  of  wine  to  the 
stock  jelly  produced. 

Note, — There  are  different  kinds  of 
gelatine  and  some  thai  is  imported  will 
if  bought  at  retail  cost  nearly  double  the 
above  estimate  for  that  ingredient,  while 
some  of  the  sheet  gelatine  can  be  bought 
at  a  dollar  a  pound  or  one  third  less  than 
our  count. 

467— Soda  Mead. 


A  "health  drink"  for  summer. 
Make  a  syrup  with: 

1  quart  water. 

2  ounces  of  whole  spices  consisting  of 
equal  quantities  of  cloves,  stick  cinna- 
mon, ginger,  coriander,  seed  and  carda- 
mons. 

1  tablespoon  powdered  gum  arable. 

4  pounds  honey. 

Boil  the  spices  in  the  water  about 
half  an  hour,  strain  into  another  sauce- 
pan, put  in  the  honey,  boil  up  and  skim, 
dissolve  the  gum  in  it.  Use  same  as  so- 
da syrup,  about  a  gill  to  each  glass  of 
poda.  Thegnmis  to  produce  foam  and 
white  of  egg  answers  the  same  purpose 
but  not  to  keep  long. 

468— English    Mead— Small  Quantity. 

A  fermented  beer  of  the  "root  beer'* 
sort. 

To  make  five  gallons  procure  either  a 
keg  that  size  from  the  liquor  stores  or  a 
stone  jug.     Take: 

4    gallons  water — (a  pail  and  a  half.) 

16  pounds  honey — (20  large  cups.) 

1  ounce  hops. 

1  ounce  of  coriander  seed&^. 

Rind  of  2  lemonc. 

^  cupful  of  yeast — or  yeast  cake  sof- 
tened (with  water.)  Boil  the  honey  and 
water  together  about  an  hour,   skimming 


COOKING  FOB   PROFIT: 


123 


frequently,  until  no  more  scum  rises. 
Tie  the  bops  in  a  piece  of  muslin,  and  the 
coriander  seed  and  shaved  lemon  rind  in 
another,  put  them  in  a  tub  or  large  stone 
jar  and  pour  the  boiling  liquor  upun  them . 
When  it  is  no  more  than  milk  warm, 
spread  yeast  upon  both  sides  of  a  piece 
of  toast  and  set  it  floating.  Cover  and 
let  stand  in  a  warm  place  to  ferment  for 
three  days,  then  draw  it  off  without  sed- 
iment into  your  five  gallon  keg,*stone  jug 
or  demijohn.  Let  stand  six  hours  longer, 
full  to  the  brim,  so  that  whatever  rises 
may  run  over,  then  cork  down  and  keep 
cool.     The  longer  it  is  kept   the  better. 

469— Wine  Mead  in    Small    Quantity 

4  pounds  of  hon«y — 6  cupg. 

2  gallons  nearly  of  warm  water — 30 
cups. 

\  cupful  of  yeast — compressed ,  dis- 
solved  will  do. 

Mix  the  honey,  warm  water  and  yeast 
together  and  fill  up  a  two-  gallon  jug  or 
keg  with  it.  Set  it  in  a  warm  corner  to 
ferment,  and  as  the  yeast  rises  and  runs 
over  the  mouth  of  the  jug  keep  it  filled 
up  with  the  quart  that  was  left  over. 
When  the  fermentation  stops  cork  it  tight 
and  keep  cool. 

It  becomes  better  with  keeping  for 
several  months,  and  ought  to  be  in  bot- 
tles. 

It  is  recommended  to  improve  the  fla- 
vor to  put  in  two  lemons  sliced,  and  half 
pint  of  brandy,  both  to  be  put  in  the  keg 
or  jug  after  Uie  fermentation  has  ceased. 

470— Home  IViade  Beer. 

It  helps  the  understanding  of  what  is 
to  be  dote  if  you  have  never  made  beer 
before  to  remember  that  any  kind  of 
sweetened  liquor  with  a  little  yeast  ad- 
ded will  ferment  and  become  '*pop**  in 
three  or  four  days.  The  difference  in 
strength  of  beers  is  according  to  the  dif- 
ference of  amount  of  sweetening  in  the 
liquor  used,  strong  beer  or  ale  being 
made  with  plenty  of  malt  and  other 
sweetening  added  and  small   beer  made 


by  adding  more  water  to  the  same  malt 
for  a  second  drawing.  Once  the  method 
is  understood  it  is  only  a  question  of  dif- 
ferent flavoring  to  make  spruce  beer,  gin- 
ger beer,  or  any  other  variety  as  they  all 
go  through  the  same  process. 

471— Molasses    Beer. 


Procure  a  10  gallon  keg  and  another 
holding  5  gallons,  or  a  jug  or  two,  as 
there  will  be  about  15  gallons  of  beer. 
T«ke 

8  ounces  hops. 

4  quarts  coarse  ground  malt. 

6  pounbs  brown  sugar. 

3  pints  rebelled  Cuba  molasses. 

1  pint  brewers  yeast  or  a  quart  of 
baker's  stock. 

Boil  the  hops  in  a  kettle  with  2  pails 
of  water  about  half  an  hour,  then  pour  it 
boiling  hot  over  the  malt,  sugar,  and  mo- 
asses  in  a  tub,  stir  up ,  let  stand  an  hour, 
then  strain  the  liquor  without  stirring  up 
the  sediment  into  a  keg.  Boil  2  pails 
more  of  water,  pour  it  to  the  malt  etc., 
remaining  in  the  tub  to  extract  the  re- 
maining substance  and  when  it  is  settled 
strain  it  into  the  keg  along  with  the  first, 
then  use  another  pail  of  water  the  same 
way  but  it  need  not  be  boiled ,  only  have 
the  yeast  added  and  when  the  large  lot 
is  no  more  than  milk  warm  strain  this 
yeast  water  into  it. 

Let  ferment  in  the  kegs  2  cr  3  days, 
according  to  the  temperature,  kpeping 
them  full  to  the  bung  so  that  the  yeast 
may  work  over  and  run  off.  Then  cork 
tight  and  keep  a  week  or  a  month  as 
may  be  desired.  If  drawn  off  clear  after 
ermenting  and  bottled  it  becomes  very 
strong  after  a  few  weeks. 


472— Ginger  Pop. 

8  quarts  water. 

2  ounces  raw  ginger  pounded  to  pieces. 

2  lemons. 

8  heaping  cups  sugar. 

2  tablespoons  cream  tartar. 

J  cup  of  yeast. 


lU 


SAN  JfRANGlSO  HOJEL  GAZEITES 


Shave  off  the  thin  yellow  rind  of  the 
lemons  into  a  pail,  squeeze  in  the  juice, 
add  sugar,  ginger,  cream  of  tartar.  Boil 
the  water  and  pour  it  over.  When  cool 
enough  add  the  yeas^.  Cover  with  a 
cloth  and  let  ferment  two  days.  Strain 
off,  bottle  it  and  tie  down  the  corks. 

473— Plain  Lemonade. 


Three  or  four  lemons,  according  to 
Bize,  and  a  small  cup  of  sugar  to  a  qua^t 
of  water.  Slice  the  lemons  into  the  wa- 
ter beforehand,  and  let  stand.  Put 
shaved  ice  in  the  glasses  before  filling. 

Clear  lemonade  can  be  obtained  by  fil- 
tering it,  when  made,  through  blotting 
paper  folded  to  fit  in  a  glass  funnel. 

474  Egg  Lemonade. 

Individual  glasses  are  made  at  bars 
and  confectionaries  for  those  who  like  it 
with  one  raw  egg  broken  into  a  large 
gkss  with  half  a  lemon  sliced,  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  sugar. 

Add  water  and  shaved  ice,  cover  with 
a  punch  mixer  and  shake  up  to  produce 
a  foam  on  top. 

Individual  glasses  are  made  at  bars 
and  confectionaries  for  those  who  like  it 
with  one  raw  egg  broken  into  a  large 
glass  with  half  a  lemon  sliced,  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  sugur. 

Add  water  and  shaved  ice,  cover  with 
a  pnnch  mixer  and  shake  up  to  produce 
a  foam  on  top. 

475— Egg  Lemonade  tor  a  Party. 

8  quarts  water — a  tin  milk  pail  full, 

3  pounds  sugar— 76  or  7  cupfuls. 

2  dozen  lemons. 

2  oranges. 

8  or  10  whites  of  eggs. 

Shaved  or  broken  ice. 

Grate  the  rinds  of  8  or  10  of  the  lem- 
tSDA  and  oranges  into  a  large  bowl, using  a 
tingrater,aud  take  less  or  more.accordiug 
to  the  size  and  degree  of  ripeness  or  green- 
ness of  the  fruit.  Scrape  off  the  grated 
rind  that  adheres.     Put  a  little  sugar 


in  the  bowl  and  rub  the  zest  and  sngar 
together  with  the  back  of  a  spoon. 
Squeeze  in  the  juice  of  all,  add  the  sugar 
and  some  water  and  then  the  whites  of 
eggs,  and  beat  the  mixture  till  the  sugar 
is  dissolved ;  put  in  water  to  make  the 
specified  amount  and  strain  the  lemonade 
into  another  vessel  containing  ice. 

When  to  be  served  fill  a  glass  three 
parts  full,  invert  another  on  top,  the  rims 
close  together,  and  shake  up  to  make 
the  foam . 


476— Cider  Punch: 

I  bottle  of  "champagne^*  cider. 
1  capful  of  sugar. 

1  of  sherry. 

2  lemons. 

J  cupful  of  water. 

Mix  the  sugar,  water  and  wine  togeth- 
er in  a  pitcher,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is 
dissolved,  slice  in  the  lemons  as  for  lem- 
onade, put  in  a  lump  of  ice  and  then  fill 
up  with  cider. 

477— Claret  Cup. 

1  bottle  of  claret. 

1  bottle  of  soda  water. 
J  cupful  of  sherry. 
Peel  of  lemon. 

J  pound  sugar. 

2  or  3  slices  of  cucumber  or  a  sprig  of 
borage  or  verbena. 

Ice. 

Either  grate  the  lemon  rind  or  pare  ex- 
tremely thin  and  rub  it  -  and  the  sugar 
and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  water  together 
in  a  bowl.  Add  the  liquors  and  when 
the  sugar  is  dissolved  strain,  add  ice  to 
the  heroB  or  cucumber  slices. 


478— Catawba  Cup. 

To  each  bottle  of  dry  catawba  allow 
two  bottles  of  soda  water  and  a  quarter 
pint  of  curacoa,  mix  in  a  pitcher,  and 
p,dd  ice  abundantly.  If  not  convenient 
to  get  bottled  soda,  use  water  and  sugar 
or  lemonade  to  mix  with  the  wine  and 
liqueur. 


COOKING  FOR   PROFTT. 


125 


in 


The  precediog  are  for  ball  sapper  re- 
firesbments,  tbey  are  passed  arormd 
silver  pitcbers. 

479— Beef  Celery. 


A  bot  *'healtb   drink,"  sold   at   con- 
fectionaries  and  dmg  stores.     Take 
3  pounds  lean  beef. 
8  large  beads  celery. 

3  quarts  cold  water. 

4  wbites  of  egga. 
2  teaspoons  salt 

J  teaspoon  cayenne. 

Cbop  the  beef  until  it  is  like  sausage 
meat,  and  chop  the  celery  including  the 
roots,  the  came   way.     Mix  them   with 


the  cold  water  and  set  at  the  side 
of  the  range  to  heat  up  gradually,  then 
let  boil  about  an  hour,  add  the  salt  and 
pepper.  Then  strain  the  liquor  (bouillon) 
through  a  seive  or  napkin  held  over  a 
bowL  Take  off  every  particle  of  grease. 
Add  the  white  of  eggs  and  beat  them  in; 
boil  again  and  strain  three  or  four  times 
over.  Add  a  spoonfuU  of  burnt  sugar 
to  give  a  brown  color.  When  cold  add 
the  whites  of  two  more  eggs  to  make  a 
slight  foam  on  the  hot  drink. 

To  use,  take  a  third  of  a  glass  of  the 
preparation  and  fill  up  with  boiling  water 
poured  in  from  a  height.  There  are  hot 
water  fountains  that  discharge  into  the 
glass  with  force  like  soda. 


Hot  Drinks. 

Hot  Tom  and  Jerry. 

Take  a  punch-bowl,  into  which  put 
the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs,  and  beat 
them  up  until  as  thin  as  water;  then 
add  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon, 
ditto  of  ground  clove,  ditto  of  allspice; 
next  beat  the  whites  of  eggs  into  a 
stiff  froth,  pour  into  the  first  bowl, 
and  mix  well ;  then  add  one  bottle  of 
brandy,  one  ditto  of  Jamaica  rum. 
This  will  be  sufficient  for  a  party  of 
twenty. 

To  serve  Tom  and  Jerry  proceed  as 
follows:  -  Take  two  shakers,  heat  them 
well  with  boiling  water ;  then  pour  in 
half  of  the  mixture  and  half  of  boiling 
water,  and  keep  pouring  them  from 
one  shaker  to  the  other,  until  you 
have  attained  a  good  froth ;  then  heat 
your  tumbler  and  pour  the  liquid  in, 
which  sprinkle  with  a  little  grated 
nutmeg  on  top.     This  will  be  found  a 


delicious  drink  for  a  cold  winter's 
night. 

Hot  American  Punch. 
Take  a  punch-bowl ;  put  in  a  quarter 
pound  of  loaf  sugar,  the  juice  of  a 
lemon;  then  add  half  a  pint  of  brandy 
and  half  a  pint  of  Jamaica  rum ;  then 
set  light  to  this  ;  next  make  an  infu- 
sion of  green  tea,  one  ounce  to  a 
quart  and  a  half  water ;  pour  the  tea 
gently  into  the  bowl,  and  add  the  rind 
of  half  a  lemon.  The  compound  must 
be  served  flaming,  and  will  be  found 
sufficient  for  a  party  of  fifteen. 

Mailed  Claret 
Boil  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  pint 
of  water  six  cloves,  the  thin  rind  of 
two  lemons,  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
sugar,  and  a  stick  of  cinnamon  four 
inches  long  broken  into  small  pieces. 
Add  two  bottles  of  claret  or  burgundy 
previously  warmed,  and  when  the 
whole  boils  add  a  wineglassful  of 
brandy  or  curacao ;  strain  into  glasses, 
grating  a  little  nutmeg  over  each. 


EIGHT  WEEKS 


JLH?    JL 


SUMMER  RESORT. 


OUR  DAILY  BILL  OF  FARE 

ASD   WHAT  FT   COST. 


"Booking  «•  f or  *  fROFiT." 


Originally  Published  in  the  "San  Francisco  Daily  Hotel  Gazette  " 


BY 


Jessup  Whitehead 


1893. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  office  of  the  Librarian,  at  Washington, 
bv  Jessup  Whitehkad,  18S4.      All  rights  reserved. 


Eight  Weeks  at  a  Summer  Resort 


This  is  my  diary  of  a  time  when 
I  went  out  to  gain  experience  at  a 
small  place,  as  compared  with  our 
hotel  magnitudes,  but  a  first-class 
summer  boarding  house,  neverthe- 
less, situated  on  the  shore  of  that 
beautiful  sheet  of  water  called  Uintah 
Lake  in  the  State  of  Cornucopia.  A 
great  number  of  interesting  questions 
oonceming  the  business  of  boarding 
people  for  profit  are  to  be  answered 
in  this  way  as  will  be  seen  as  we  go 
along,  but  more  especially  the  object 
I  have  in  view  is  to  stop  once  for  all 
the  ceaseless  inquiries  of  a  lady  friend 
who  keeps  a  boarding  house  and  is 
very  economically  disposed.  This 
lady  knows  that  I  have  been  cooking 
for  profit  all  my  life  and  is  aware 
that  I  have  become  quite  indifferent 
in  regard  to  the  state  of  the  market, 
the  state  of  the  larder,  or  the  state  of 
the  storeroom,  having  learned  that  a 
good  meal  can  be  made  out  of  very 
slim  materials  if  one  knows  how  to 
manage,  and  therefore  seems  to  ex- 
pect that  I  can  answer  the  hardest 
kind  of  questions  off-hand  on  all  sorts 
of  unexpected  contingencies. 

"Oh,"  she  said  one  day  when  I 
was  going  out  just  after  breakfast, 
"before  you  go  do  tell  me  what  I 
can  have  for  dinner?"  and  she  put 
her  hand  to  her  head  in  the  same  old 
state  of  perplexity  she  was  so  well 
used  to. 

"Well,  Mrs.  Tingee,  a  suitable 
soup  would  be — " 

**The  weather  is  too  warm  for 


soup,"  she  broke  in  with,  "  and  be- 
sides, I  have  nothing  to  make  it  of, 
and  Anne  would  not  have  time." 

In  this  respect  I  think  she  was 
wrong.  In  warm  weather  people 
take  liquid  food  all  the  more  readily 
and  the  soup  is  seldom  too  hot.  I 
find  that  the  only  two  dishes  that  are 
invariably^  eaten  out  clean  with  no 
remainders  are  the  soup  and  ide 
cream.     However,  I  went  on: 

"If  it  is  to  warm  for  soup,  you 
might  get  a  fine  bluefish  and  stuff 
and  bake  it  with  about  a  pound  or 
less  of  slices  of  pickled  pork  laid 
under  and  over  it,  or  a  pompano  or 
two  of  them,  broiled,  with  softened 
butter  and  lemon-juice,  and  roast 
some  young  chickens,  and  get  some 
of  that  early  summer  squash  and 
corn  that  has  come  from  the  South, 
and  a  half  gallon  of  thick,  sweet 
cream  and  a  dozen  boxes  of  straw- 
berries and  then  if  you  have  some 
sponge  cake  and  delicate  cake  ready 
made  and  frosted  and  iftake  your 
coffee  strong  and  clear,  you  may  get 
through  this  dinner  time  very  well 
and  you  have  all  the  afternoon  and 
night  in  which  to  plan  for  to-mor- 
row." 

"  I  don't  want  to  know  that,"  the 
lady  snapped  out,  half  cross.  "  Do 
you  know  that  I  have  had  to  drop 
the  price  of  day  board  from  four 
dollars  a  week  to  three  dollars  and  a 
half,  because  the  boarders  teased  me 
so  to  do  8o;  they  ssid  they  could  not 
stand  it  to  pay  more  and  I  had  to  do 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


it,  and  I  should  like  to  see  myself 
buying  strawberries  for  them  at 
thirty  cents  a  quart  and  cream  at 
twenty-five.  Anybody  can  go  to 
market  and  buy  the  best  of  every- 
thing and  make  a  good  dinner;  what 
I  want  to  know  is  what  you  do  when 
you  have  no  pompano,  no  chickens, 
no  fresh  vegetables,  no  fruit,  no 
cream,  no  cake,  no  nothing — now 
tell  me  that" 

'^Can't  tell  you*,  Mrs.  Tingee,  but  I 
will  write  out  what  it  costs  to  give  first- 
class  board,  plentifiil,  reasonably  rich, 
but  not  extraordinary^  nor  extravagant 
and  perhaps  you  will  pick  out  some  items 
that  will  be  usefiil  to  you." 

So  the  knotty  question  of  "What  do 
you  do  for  a  good  meal  when  you 
nave  nothing  that  you  want  to  make  it 
with?"  recurs  continually.  How,  for 
instance,  can  we  serve  mint  sauce  with 
roast  lamb  in  Senator  Sawmill's  town, 
where  not  only  no  mint  is  to  be  bought, 
but  none  of  the  inhabitants  apparently 
have  ever  heard  of  any  other  mmt,  but 
Uncle  Sam's,  where  money  is  made? 
And  here  is  another  instance : 

500— A  Little  Party  Supper. 


Jane  25.  The  proprietor  of  the  Hotel 
D*Arlington  came  out  with  a  cigar  in  his 
mouth  and  stood  by  smiling  for  a  few 
minutes  while  I  was  cutting  meat  for 
supper.  There  was  something  coming. 
Presently  he  said : 

"I  can't  let  you  go  to  Uintah  Lake  for 
two  days  yet.  Does  it  make  much  dif- 
ference?" 

"What  has  happened?" 

'*Melnotte,  the  actor's  troupe  disbands 
here  to  pass  the  vacation  at  the  summer 
resorts,  and  he  wants  to  give  a  little  fare- 
well supper  to-night,  and  to-morrow 
night  the  college  graduates  have  a  straw- 
berry and  ice  cream  party  in  the  dining 
room." 

"It  is  after  four  o'clock  now;  not 
much  time  to  get  up  a  supper  when  our 
regular  supper  runs  till  eight." 

"But  they  don't  want  this  till  eleven 
and  it  is  just  a  little  cold  supper  nicely 
set  on  the  table,  nothing  elaborate.  I 
don't  want  it  to  cost  much — ^what  can 
you  give  them?" 


"There  are  plenty  of  things,  I  supnose 
that  can  be  given  for  such  an  occasion, 
but  one  can't  say  in  a  minute.  It  b  a 
bad  time  of  year  for  a  cold  party  supj)er 
—no  oysters.  Will  there  be  any  ladies ; 
that  is,  shall  we  want  any  sweets— ice 
cream?" 

"Miss  Ophelia  will  be  in  the  party. 

"That  is  the  star  actress?" 

"Yes,  and  one  or  two  others,  and  two 
newspaper  men,  but  I  would  not  go  to 
the  trouble  of  ice  cream— there  wilTonly 
be  seventeen  all  together." 

"We  must  have  some  chickens.'' 

"I  m  afraid  we  can't  get  any.  I  have 
not  seen  a  chicken  in  this  town  since  the 
frost  broke  up." 

"Turkeys,  then" 

"Harder  yet.  I  saw  one  old  gobbler 
at  the  butcher's  three  weeks  ago,  but  it 
is  a  thousand  chances  to  one  against 
finding  one  now." 

"We  have  the  best  of  all  sorts  of 
butcher's  meats  for  every  meal,  but  you 
don't  want  to  sit  your  actors  down  to 
dishes  of  the  same  meats  cold  that  they 
have  had  hot  three  times  in  the  day 
already.  Cold  roast  fowl  would  be  a 
rarity,  and  then  there  must  be  a  salad 
and  it  ought  to  be  of  turkey  or  chicken. 
Perhaps  you  can  find  canned  chicken 
at  the  stores,  and  if  it  is  not  very  good 
for  salad  alone  it  can  be  made  better  by 
mixing  with  white  veal  which  we  can  get 
at  the  Dutchers.  It  may  be  that  you  can 
find  boneless  roast  turkey  in  cans,  too, 
and  one  or  two  will  snfiice.  And  get 
some  canned  Baratana  shrimps  and  let 
the  boy  try  once  more  for  parsley." 

"No  use ;  the  people  in  tnis  town  don't 
know  what  parsley  isi  but  I  will  tele- 
phone to  the  stores  about  the  other 
things — do  you  want  any  lobster?" 

"1  think  not.  Canned  lobster  is  an 
abominadon.  Take  shrimp  instead,  and 
lettuce  and  lemons." 

The  telephone  having  been  employed 
and  yielded  nothing,  a  boy  was  sent  out 
I  who  returned  in  an  hour  with  the  intel- 
I  ligence  that  in  all  this  town  of  15,000  in- 
habitants there  was  no  poultry  either 
fresh  or  canned,  but  one  merchant  sent 
word  that  he  had.  some  nice  canned  crab 
and  with  each  two-pound  can,  eight  crab 
shells  were  furnished  to  bake  in ;  that  he 
supplied  some  of  the  same  to  Mrj.  Con- 
gressman Wmdmill's  partv^  and  they 
were  much  pleased.  So  this  following 
was  the  bill-of-fare  that  resulted : 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


Devilled  Crab  in  SheU. 

Sardines  with  Brown  Bread. 

Garnished  Pickles. 

Corned  Tongue. 

Shrimps  in  Mayonaise. 

French  Rolls  and  Butter  Bread,  Swiss 

Cheese. 

"Maids  of  Honor''  Tartlets. 

Strawberries  and  Cream.    Cake. 

Coffee. 

Wine,  extra.  Cigars,  extra. 

Of  course  there  was  no  menu  card;  a 

long  table  was  set  suitable  for  farewell 

speech-making  and  those  things  were  set 

on  it;  and,  the  waiters  out  of  pure  good 

wUl  ^ent  out  in  the  twilight  and  despoiled 

somebody's  garden  of  large   bunches  of 

lilac  and  snowballs  for  decoration. 

Cost  of  material : 
3  cans  crab  @  33^^  $1  00 

3  cans  shrimps  @  30  90 

6  small  cans  sardines  @  20  i  20 

6  heads  lettuce  15 

I  pint  salad  oil    ^  .,  50 

6  Imons  for  dressin  g  and  garnish  15 

5^  a  cold  corned  tongue  15 

I  bunch  red  radishes  for  garnish  5 

9  eggs  for  salad  dressing  15 

6  quarts  strawberries  @  15  90 

1  quart  cream  25 
24  tartlets  25 
Rolls,  bread,  butter  20 
Cheese,  pickles,  condiments  25 

2  pounds  of  cake  25 
20  cups  coffee  (J^  fi)  Java)  18 
2  pounds  sugar  16 

^ 

501— A  Dish  of  Devilled  Crabs. 


Opened  the  x  cans.  They  proved  to 
De  solid  packed  and  good,  only  a  little 
too  salty.  It  is  the  common  way,  to  mix 
fine  bread  crumbs  with  the  crab  meat, 
but  there  being  rather  more  than  enough 
of  this,  the  only  addition  made  was  a 
cupful  of  rich  butter  sauce  made  with 
melted  butter,  to  avoid  adding  the  salt 
drqgs,  and  some  pepper.  Buttered  the 
insides  of  the  shells;  filled  20  of  them, 
rounded  up,  and  on  top  pressed  some 
very  fine  minced  bread  crumbs;  baked 
to  a  toast-brown  in  the  oven  and  basted 
with  a  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 


Ready  an  hour  before  supper  time? 

To  serve :  Covered  each  one  of  three 
large  platters  with  four  of  the  handsom- 
est lettuce  leaves,  the  curled  green  edges 
coming  around  the  edges  of  the  dishes, 
and  arranged  the  crabs  in  star  form  upon 
them  with  quartered  lemons  between  the 
points. 

502— Sardines  With  Brown  Bread  and 
Butter;  or^  en  Canape. 


Shook  out  three  boxes  of  sardines  on 
to  a  dish,  took  up  the  unbroken  sardines 
with  forks  and  laid  on  paper  to  dram. 
Chopped  a  green  pickle  extremely  fine 
and  a  hard  boiled  egg  and  mixed  them 
together.  Cut  long,  tHm  slices  of  graham 
bread  about  width  of  two  fingers,  but- 
tered them,  sprinkled  the  minced  gar- 
nish down  the  middle  of  each  with  a 
tea-spoon,  and  laid  a  sardine  upon  it. 
Arranged  these  diagonally  on  two  small 
platters  with  radishes  scraped  in  stripes 
laid  between.  The  other  three  boxes  of 
sardines  were  opened  and  served  in 
the  boxes  as  they  were,  for  those  who 
might  prefer  them,  on  platters  having  a 
border  of  shred  lettuce. 

503— Cold  Corned  Tongue. 

Red  tongue  sliced  slantwise,  extremely 
thin,  enough  for  two  small  platters. 
Minced  green  radish  tops  in  little  heaps 
around  the  edges  for  ornament,  and  a 
thin,  round  slice  of  lemon  in  the  middle. 


504 — Shrimps  in  Mayonaise. 


This  is  only  another  term  for  shrimp 
salad  and  it  is  not  necessary  that  the 
mayonaise  dressing  (No.  151)  be  used 
every  time. 

Took  5  hard-boiled  yolks  and  3  raw. 

Yz  cup  olive  oil. 

1  table  spoon  sugar. 

2  teaspoons  salt  and  i  of  pepper. 
I  teaspoon  made  mustard. 
Juice  of  2  or  3  lemons. 

A  small  cup  vinegar. 

Whipped  whites  of  3  eggs. 

Rubbed  all  the  yolks  to  a  paste  with 
the  back  of  a  spoon  and  added  oil,  sugar, 
mustard,  salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice  and 


SAN  liRANCISCO  MOTEL  GAZE'ITE'S 


vinegar,  all  a  little  at  a  time.  Kept  the 
lettuce  in  cold  water  till  the  last,  then 
shook  and  dried  between  two  napkins. 
Shred  the  white  hearts  fine,  like  slaw, 
and  mixed  the  shrimps  with  it.  Whipped 
the  whites,  added  to  the  salad  dressmg, 
poured  over  the  salad,  stirred  up  lightly, 
dished  in  two  deep  glass  dishes  and  gar- 
nished with  the  boiled  whites  in  rings  and 
little  roimd  cuts  of  radishes.  Set  salad 
plates  handy  and  silver  forks  for  the 
waiters  to  serve  it  from  the  dishes  if  re- 
quired. 


507— Fresh  Strawberries. 


505— Maids   of    honor. 


This  is  the  old-fashioned  name  of  some 
sorts  of  cheese  cakes  or  tartlets.  As  it  is 
often  to  be  met  with  in^  English  and  old 
Virginia  bills-of-fare  it  is  necessary  to  use 
the  term,  if  only  for  explanatory  pur-  j  upon  the  eatables  showed  plamly  that 


Washed  them  in  a  large  jar  of  cold 
water  to  free  them  from  sana.  Picked 
and  heaped  them  in  three  glass  bowls 
with  individual  pitchers  of  cold  cream 
and  bowls  of  powdered  si^^  at  hand, 
and  piles  of  glass  sauce  dishes.  Cake 
of  two  or  three  varieties  in  the  usual 
cake  baskets  on  folded  napkins. 

It  was  not,  then,  a  strictly  cold  supper 
after  all,  since  the  devilled  crabs  were 
fresh  and  warm,  but  what  was  of  more 
consequence  than  that,  the  enture  party 
expected,  did  not  come.  There  was  a 
moonlight  excursion  by  steamboat  that 
night  and  Miss  Ophelia,  and  the  two 
ladies  and  the  two  newspaper  men  went 
off  on  the  boat  and  only  twelve  re- 
mained; still,  the  inroads  these   made 


poses.  Maids  of  Honor  are  different  from 
ordinary  patty-pan  tarts  in,  being  made 
of  fine  pun  paste,  which  rises  high  in  the 
pans. 

Took  puff  paste,  left  over  from  dinner 
pastry,  rolled  out  thm,  cut  out  with  a 
fancy  scollop-edge  cutter,  large  as  the 
top  of  a  coffee  cup,  and  pressed  the  fiats 
into  shallow  gem  pans.  Put  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  lemon  honey  (506) — called  lemon 
cheese  cake  by  the  English — in  each; 
baked  in  a  slack  oven;  took  out  just  be- 
fore the  "cheesecake"  began  to  boil  over 
the  edges  and  spoil  the  appearance. 
Served  on  small  pastry  plates,  four  in 
each  set,  at  intervals  down  the  table. 


506— Lemon    Butter;   or    Paste; 
Cheesecake;  or  Lemon  Honey. 


or 


A  world-wide  favorite  made  of— 

I  cup  sugar— 8  ounces. 

Slemons. 

Butter,  size  of  an  egg— 2  ounces. 

4  to  6  yolks  or  3  whole  eggs— not  par- 
ticular. 

Put  the  sugar,  butter  and  grated  rinds 
and  juice  into  a  saucepan  and  boil,  add 
the  yolks  and  stir  until  it  becomes  thick. 

It  looks  like  cold  honey  when  it  is 
cold.  May  be  kept  for  weeks.  Is  good 
to  spread  jelly  cakes  with  and  to  fill  tart- 
lets and  eclairs.  It  is  seldom  worth  while 
to  make  less  than  double  the  above 
amount. 


had  all  been  there,  there  would  only 
have  been  just  provisions  enough. 


The  Art  of  Charging  Enough. 


June  26.  This  morning  I  asked  the 
proprietor  of  the  Hotel  D'Arlington : 

"Have  you  any  objection  to  telling  me 
what  you  charged  for  last  night's  sup- 
per?" 

"What  would  you  have  charged?"  he 
returned,  with  the  complacent  smile  of 
one  who  knows  how. 

While  I  was  figimng  on  a  dollar  a 
plate  and  not  knowing  what  was  to  be 
done  about  the  odd  number  and  the 
absentees,  he  added: 

"I  charged  them  twenty  dollars  for  the 
supper  and  there  was  a  profit  on  wine 
and  cigars,  and  they  were  pleased  and 
satisfied.  If  it  had  been  a  partj  of  our 
town  boys  from  the  college  I  might  have 
had  to  take  seventy-five  cents  a  plate, 
but  these  actors  would  have  gone  away 
thinking  they  had  been  treated  in  a 
second-class  manner  if  I  had  charged 
them  less— and  I  do  not  work  for 
nothing." 

"A  very  close  friend  of  mine  lost  his 
chance  of  a  fortune  in  the  restaurant 
business  some  years  ago  through  not 
knowing  how  to  charge  enough." 

"It  is  a  very  essential  thing  to  know  in 
our  business. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


"Yes.  He  took  a  place  and  went  on 
serving  the  best  that  was  to  be  obtained 
in  a  superior  style  on  a  sort  ot  ten-per- 
cent profit  plan  until  all  the  one-horse 
eating  houses  around  him  closed,  one 
after  the  other  and  he  had  all  the  trade." 

"And  then  he  raised  his  prices!" 

"No." 

"He  was  a  fool." 

"Yes.  And  went  on  doing  more  bus- 
iness and  working  harder  and  making 
less  money,  until — " 

"He  took  sick?" 

"No.  But  a  man  who  knew  how  to 
charge  five  dollars  for  a  two-and-a-half 
supper  came  along,  bought  him  out  easy, 
stepped  in  and  made  a  few  thousands 
without  ever  taking  his  gl()ves  off,  as  it 
were." 

"Now,  that  is  not  the  way  to  look  at 
the  matter.  The  man  who  charged  five 
dollars  for  a  two-and-a-half  supper  did 
quite  right  and  just  what  a  portion  of  the 
public  wanted  him  to  do.  Thev  that 
paid  it  paid  two-and-a-half  for  exclusive- 
ness.  They  paid  a  price  that  Tom, 
Dick  and  Harry  could  not  pay,  purpose- 
ly that  those  three  objectionable  persons 
might  be  kept  out ;  and,  they  paid  it  for 
better  table-wear,  finer  furnishings  and 
better  service. 

There  is  a  vast  amount  of  working  for 
nothing  in  the  ordinary  boarding  busi- 
ness. Great  apparent  profits  would  turn 
out  to  be  dead  loss  in  many  cases  if  all 
the  principals  were  paid  as  exactly  as  the 
hired  helpers  are.  Summer  boarding- 
house  keepers  will  tend  a  garden  four 
months  in  advance,  turn  the  products 
into  the  boarding-house  and  count  so 
much  more  made  because  they  have  no 
vegetables  and  fruits  to  buy  when  if  they 
paid  themselves  for  their  gardening  they 
would  come  out  in  debt. 

Such  might  even  be  the  case  with  such 
an  apparently  renumerative  supper  as 
that  previously  detailed,  and  this  will  ex- 

{)lain  why  persons  never  become  sudden- 
y  rich  by  setting  up  to  furnish  parties  to 
order,  and  why  they  cannot  afford  to  be 
cheap  in  their  charges,  and  why,  more- 
over, hotel-keepers  themselves  seldom 
make  any  profit  on  any  suppers  or  ban- 
quets that  are  beyond  the  easy  capacity 
of  their  own  establishment  without  out- 
side help.  If  a  little  extra  supp>er  in  a 
hotel  requires  the  attendance  until  a  late 


hour  of  three  waiters,  a  pantr37man  or 
girl,  and  a  dishwasher,  the  proprietor  is 
not  ordinarily  expected  to  pay  extra  for 
such  service,  because,  hirmg  by  the 
month  some  accommodation  is  looked 
for  from  the  help  as  an  offset  to  the 
times  of  dull  business  when  there  is  little 
to  do,  but  the  pay  goes  on  all  the  same. 
But  if  these  had  to  he  specially  hired  for 
the  occasion  the  cost  would  be  one  dol- 
lar each  in  most  places,  and  half  that 
amount  in  the  very  cheapest.  A  first- 
class  cook  in  New  York  or  Saratoga,  if 
called  in  to  prepare  a  private  party  can 
generally  obtain  ten  dollars  a  day  for 
his  services.  Ordir\arly,  a  first-class 
caterer  in  any  city,  having  such  cooks  in 
his  employ  charges  for  their  services 
when  they  are  sent  out  about  %k  a  day, 
and  about  such  a  rate  the  hotel-keeper 
would  have  to  pay  if  he  had  not  his  own 
cook  to  command.  Add  then  the  cost 
of  gas,  of  fires,  the  hire  of  dishes  and 
tableware,  hire  of  express  wagon  and 
a  hand  to  go  to  and  tro,  pack  and  un- 
pack, the  washing  of  napkms  and  table 
cloths  and  other  like  incidentals  and  the 
anticipated  profits  from  even  the  finest 
ball  supper  may  delusively  vanish  before 
you  know  how  it  all  happened — unless 
you  rush  in  slowly  and  know  how  to 
charge  enough. 


508— A  School  Commencement  Straw- 
berry and  Ice  Cream  Supper. 

June  26.  The  supper  ordered  for  to- 
night is  a  very  different  affair  from  that 
of  the  actors.  It  is  for  some  professors 
and  teachers  but  mostly  for  girl  graduates 
who  are  not  hotel  boarders.  It  is  con- 
demed  in  advance  as  an  affair  that  will 
be  more  bother  than  it  is  worth;  that 
will  not  pay  a  cent;  but,  that  must  be 
accepted  for  the  sake  of  popularity  in  the 
town.  Perhaps  it  will  turn  out  more 
profitable  than  is  anticipated.  It  is  to  be 
fifty  cents  a  plate  for  ail  who  eat  except 
five  musicians  who  are  fi^e.  There  is  a 
guarantee  of  forty  persons  with  a  possi- 
bility of  seventy-five.  Orders  to  provide 
for  fifty  and  take  the  chances  on  more  01 
less;  to  make  nothing  expensive  and  not 
lose  any  more  on  the  party  than  was  ab- 
solutely unavoidable 

The  bill-of-fare: 

Thin  sliced  baked  ham  5  dishes. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


Thin  sliced  corned  tongue,  5  dishes. 

Thin  sliced  bread,  10  plates. 

Ham  sandwiches,  2  dishes. 

Butter;  the  usual  dishes  and  individual 
chips. 

Cream  rolls  (No.  260)  10  plates. 

Pickles  cut  in  thin  strips,  10  plates. 

Cofifee  cakes,  (No.  262)  10  plates. 

Lemon  tartlets  (like  No.  134)  15  plates. 

Angel  Food  cake  (No.  2)   frosted,  4 
stands. 

Butter  sponge  cake  (like  No.  299)  4 
stands 

Strawberries,  5  glass  bowls. 

Vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  196)^  served  in- 
dividually from  a  side  table. 

Lemonade,  an  unmeasured  quantity 
well  iced. 

Cofifee ;  cream ;  powdered  sugar. 

Cost  of  material : 
Ham,  4  K)S  @  15  60 

Corned  tongue,  two,  ©30  60 

Bread,  6  loaves  25 

Curled  lettuce  for  garnish  5 

Devilled  bam  for  sandwiches  25 

Butter,  4  pounds  @  .25  i  00 

Pickles,  I  qt.  10 

Cream  rolls,  sixty  50 

Cofifee  cakes,  seventy-two  90 

Lemon  tartlets,  seventy-two  90 

Angel  Food  with  thirty  whites,  -etc,      70 
Butter  sponge  cake,  frosted  80 

Strawberries,  10  qts.  @  .12  i  20 

Ice  cream,  5  qts.  craam,  sugar,etc    i  60 
Lemons,  3  doz  75 

Sugar  for  lemonade,  four  Bbs  35 

Cream  for  table,  two  qts.  50 

Powdered  sugar,  two  fi)S  18 

Coffee,  one-half  K>  20 


$11  43 

Sixty-nine  persons  partook  of  the  sup- 
per of  whom  sixty-four  paid  fifty  cents 
each — $32.  There  was  quite  enough  of 
everything^  and  nothing  left;  the  only 
thing  requuring  to  be  eked  out  by  a  plan 
of  dishmg  up  light  was  the  ice  cream. 
The  only  freezer  m  the  house  held  nom- 
inally eight  quarts.  Five  quarts  of  pure 
cream  put  in  increased  to  seven  quarts  in 
freezing  and  was  all  the  freezer  would 
hold.  Among  the  best  things  to  make 
for  such  an  occasion  are  the  coffee  cakes 
referred  to.  These  were  made  like  split 
rolls  in  shape,  then  the  edges  notched 
with  a  knife  to  make  what  the  boys  call 
"dog-toes,"  then  set  to  rise.    They  open 


up  in  baking,  are  rich  looking  and  when 
brushed  over  with  syrup  and  dredged 
with  sugar  are  the  showiest  things  on  the 
table. 


509— Sandwiches   of   Devilled  Ham. 


A  twenty-five  cent  can  of  the  devilled 
ham  S9ld  m  the  stores  will  spread  50  thin 
sandwiches.  Sandwiches  are  never  good 
unless  they  are  thin.  There  should  be  a 
very  sharp  knife  used  and  an  effort  to 
try  how  thinly  the  bread  can  be  sliced. 
Spread  one  slice  with  butter  the  other 
with  ham,  put  them  together  and  cut  ofif 
the  edges  smooth  and  even. 

Uintah  Lake,  ( 
State  of  Cornucopia,  ] 

Came  over  with  Mr.  Farewell  and  his 
family  of  boys  to  commence  the  resort 
season.  It  will  be  a  good  opportunity  to 
note  the  cost  of  first-class  family  hvmg, 
with  a  regular  bill-of-fare. 

Mr.  Farewell  has  invented  and  manu- 
factures the  only  successful  fire  escape  and 
in  the  course  of  the  business  has  learned 
a  good  deal  about  hotels.  He  formerly 
bad  a  "shooting  box"  at  the  lake  where 
he  would  pass  an  occasional  week,  then 
as  the  lakeshore  became  settled  up  he 
built  a  house  to  bring  his  family  to  for  a 
few  days.  Then  he  built  another  in 
which  they  could  live  all  summer.  Then 
came  all  the  relatives  and  friends  and 
business  acquaintances  who  respected 
Mr.  Farewell,  and  he  built  still  another 
house,  wherein  they  could  pass  the  sum- 
mer, too.  But  it  is  very  likely  that  at 
the  end  of  last  summer^s  pleasure  the 
hostess  quit  pretty  tired.  I  don't  know 
what  she  said,  but  the  fact  is,  that  this 
year  Mr.  Farewell  starts  in  with  a  regular 
hotel  register  a  regular  manager, 
a  regular  housekeeper,  a  regu- 
lar cook  and  a  bran  new  omnibus.  I  am 
afraid  it  will  not  pay  him  in  cash,  but  he 
will  get  i^eace,  rest  and  pleasure  for  his 
family  at  a  less  cost  than  neretofore. 

So,  this  is  the  kitchen;  a  summer 
kitchen,  truly;  not  ceiled,  with  plain 
boards  for  a  floor.  I  am  glad  it  is  so, 
for  there  are  no  hotel  advantages  to  be 
counted.  1*11  bet  it  is  just  like  all  the 
rest  of  the  summer  boarding  house 
kitchens,  on  both  sides  of  the  lake,  just 


COOKING  liOR  PROFIT, 


like  the  Trulirural  House,  over  on  the 

gjint ;  just  like  Swibob's  on  the  right  and 
amacle's  on  the  left.     Yes,  it  is  good 
enough. 

And  this  is  the  stove,  a  number  14  or 
16,  or  thereabout ;  and  this  is  the  cook's 
hot  water  tank — a  big  tin  teakettle — the 
reservoir  being  for  soft-water  for  the 
dishwashing.  I  suppose  there  has  been 
many  a  fine  meal  cooked  for  a  hundred 
or  more  on  smaller  stoves  than  this,  and 
teakettle  cookery  is  not  so  bad  in  some 
places.  Anjrway,  it  is  as  good  as  all  the 
rest  and  the  stove  has  an  immense  oven. 
The  Palmer  House  at  the  depot  has  a 
fair-sized  range  and  a  new  30  inch  broiler 
arrived  for  it  on  the  last  train,  but  we 
are  not  a  laige  house  like  that. 


510— The  Question  of  How  Many  Fires. 


There  is  a  wonderful  disproportion  in 
some  hotels  between  the  size  of  the  fur- 
nishins^s  and  appliances  and  the  results 
they  are  intended  to  secure.  One  of  the 
best  fitted-up,  most  city-like  country 
hotels  I  know  of,  is  the  Devereux  House 
in  tj;^e  city  of  Pandora,  State  of  Cornu- 
copia, but  it  is  also  keeping  up  one  of 
the  silliest  pieces  of  extravagance  in  run- 
ning seven  fires  in  the  kitchen  for  the 
cooking  for  generally  forty  and  never 
more  than  fifty  persons;  the  proprietor  at 
the  same  time  paying  $6  a  cord  for  wood 
and  fifteen  cents  a  bushel  for  charcoal 
and  pinching  and  saving  in  all  other 
ways  to  make  both  ends  meet.  As  some 
readers  will  be  puzzled  to  see  how  so 
many  fires  can  exist  in  one  small  kitchen 
at  once,  we  will  give  a  diagram  to  show : 


HOTEL  KITCHEN. 


L        K 


AA — i2-foot  range,  steam  chest  and 
hot  water  tank — fire  sixteen  hours  a  day. 

B — 30-inch  broiler — fire  six  hours  a 
day. 

C — No.  10  cook  stove  for  batter  cakes, 
private  tea-pots,  milk  for  toast,  soft 
water  in  reservoir — fire  eight  hours  a<iay. 

D^Dharcoal  toast  range  —  fire  su 
hours  a  day. 

E — Two-stoiT  zmc  oven  dish-heatex 
with  furnace — fire  ten  hours  a  day. 

F— Carving  table  with  furnace,  foi 
keeping  rolls  and  corn  bread  warm  and 
for  dinner— fire  ten  hours  a  day. 

G — Pastry  cooks  oven,  zinc,  with  fur- 
nace— fire  ten  hours  a  day. 

HH— Hot  place  for  the  cook. 


SAN  liRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


8 


I — Hard  place  for  the  hand  that  keeps 
up  all  the  fires. 

JTJ — Kitchen  table;  K  meat  block; 
L  dead  line  for  help. 

The  reason  why  they  use  so  many 
fires  to  feed  40  or  50  people  is  that  once 
upon  a  time,  long  years  ago,  the  house 
used  to  contain  150  people  and  the  fires 
were  not  too  many;  the  trade  went  away 
but  still,  like  the  Aztecs,  they  keep  up 
the  sacred  fires. 

Now  here  is  the  other  ejrtreme : 


SUMMER 


KITCHEN, 


A— One  large  cook  stove. 

B — Big  broiling  hearth  and  gridiron  to 
same. 

C— Hot  water  reservoir  and  tin  dish- 
closet  under. 

D — Meat  block. 

E— Kitchen  table. 

F — Dead  line  for  help. 

T— Tea  kettle. 

We  all  like  plenty  of  conveniences,  a 
place  for  everj^hing,  and  I  am  not  going 
to  make  an  arcument  against  plenty  of 
range  room.  Tnere  must  be  a  medium, 
however,  somewhere  between  these  two 
pictures.  This  stove  is  to  serve  for  some 
number  unknown  except  that  it  will 
never  exceed  fifty.  How  well  I  remem- 
ber the  splendid  and  plentiful  dinners 
that  usea  to  be  cookea  for  as  many  as 
from  150  to  300  people  on  those  little  up- 
river  steamboats  at  this  very  low-water 
time  of  year,  on  light  six-foot  ranges  that 
we  could  almost  carry  around.  More 
than  half  had  to  be  done  by  steaming, 
because  the  ovens  were  so  small.  Half- 
a-dozen  entrees  would  be  well  cooked 
over  the  ash-pan  full  of  coals  with  the 


gridiron  upon  them.  Right  now,  there 
IS  the  City  of  Fremont  of  the  Lake  Su- 
perior line  setting  a  magnificent  table  for 
large  numbers,  though  her  kitchen 
(caboose)  is  little  more  than  a  cupboard ; 
the  range  one  of  the  smallest ;  the  pastry 
room  positively  too  small  for  a  man  to 
stretch  his  arms  to  pull  off  a  coat.  And 
still  they  prepare  all  sorts  of  delicacies 
in  it.  "There  is  more  m  the  man  than 
there  is  in  the  land." 


Supper. 


Only  been  here  an  hour  or  two  and 
boy  clamorous  for  pie  already.  "It  aint 
good  for  you,  honey."  No  provisions 
but  some  fragments  of  the  janitor's  and 
contents  of  lunch  basket. 

Ham,  cold  boiled,  sliced  thin  ^K) 

Salt  pork,  fried  i^ 

Potatoes,  German  fried 

Tomatoes,  i  s-lb  can,  seasoned 

Bread  and  butter 

Coffee,  tea,  milk,  sugar 

Baked  custard,  2  quarts 


Fourteen  persons ;  6  cents  a  plate. 


10 
10 
4 
14 
II 
10 
21 

80 


511— German    Fried  Potatoes. 


ers 


This  is  the  name  the  restaurant  keep- 
have  given  to  the  family  style  of 
cooking  potatoes.  Boil  potatoes  with 
their  jackets  on  then  peel  and  cut  in 
thick  slices  into  a  large  frying  pan.  Put 
in  drippings,  or  butter,  or  the  fat  from 
fried  pork  enough  only  to  well  grease  the 
pan ;  let  the  potatoes  have  plenty  of  time 
to  brown  on  one  side  then  shake  them 
over  till  they  are  nicely  colored  all 
through.    Sprinkle  with  salt. 

512— Plain  Baked   Custard. 


?uickest  and  easiest  of  all  puddings. 
00k  6  cups  milk  (4^  cents) 

10  eggs  (12  J4  cents) 

I  cup  of  sugar  (4  cents) 

Grating  of  nutmeg. 

Beat  all  together  with  a  wire  egg 
beater,  pour  into  an  earthern  dish  and 
bake.  Be  careful  to  take  it  out  as  soon  as 
it  is  set,  as  too  long  baking  causes  it  to 
break  and  turn  watery.  Should  be  eaten 
cold.  No  sauce  needed. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


Breakfast. 


July  2nd. 
Minced  ham  on  toast 
Cold  ham,  thin  sliced  5^H> 


Poached  eg^s,  8  orders,  i6  eggs 
Potatoes  baked  in  milk 


20 
10 
21 

-_  13 

Baking  powder  biscuits,  40  large       72 
Butter,  15;  bread,    3;  cream,  10; 
milk,  6;  coffee  and  tea,  4  38 

$1  38 


Fifteen  persons ;  9  cents  a  plate 
513— iVlinced   Ham  on  Toast. 

It  is  best  when  freshly  made.  The 
ham  should  be  sliced  and  then  mmced 
and  served  up  as  soon  as  it  b  hot,  before 
it  turns  to  a  dark  color.  Took  the  lasc 
Itran  trimmings  of  the  boiled  ham  that 
would  not  make  slices,  iS),  18  cents, 
minced  fine.  Put  in  saucepan,  butter, 
I  cent,  and  large  spoonful  water,  put  in 
the  ham  and  let  get  hot  but  not  fry. 
Season  with  black  pepper  only.  Made 
12  thin  slices  of  toast  of  one-half  loaf 
bread,  23^  cents.  Spread  a  spoonful  of 
minced  ham  evenly  on  the  toast  as  called 
for.  

514— Potatoes    Baked  in  Milk. 


A  third  of  a  peck  of  potatoes,  4  cents, 
pared  and  cut  m  thick  slices  raw  into  a 
tin  baking  pan.  Added  part  of  a  green 
onion,  a  teaspoon  salt,  butter,  i  cent, 
and  two  quarts  milk,  6  cents,  and  put  in 
when  the  fire  was  first  made,  baked 
slowly  until  the  milk  was  dried  down 
like  cream  and  brown  on  top. 


515— Baking    Powder  Biscuits. 

The  lady  before  referred  to,  who  keeps 
a  boarding  house  under  difficulties,  did 
not  take  kindly  to  my  wav  of  making 
biscuits,  it  oeems  too  dear;  but,  I  should 
like  to  talk  it  over  with  her.  In  the  first 
place,  there  is  so  much  difference  be- 
tween the  cheapness  of  all  sorts  of  bread 
and  vegetable  food  and  the  deamess  of 
meat,  that  we  cannot  take  too  much 
pains  to  make  the  breads  good  in  order 
that  they  may  be  eaten  and  the  meat 
saved.     Then  in  places  where  one  man 


cook  has  to  do  as  much  as  four  of  Mrs. 
Tingee's  girls  put  together  and  be  ready 
every  time  without  excuses,  the  differ- 
ence in  time  saved  between  our  method 
of  pouring  in  the  butter  or  lard  in  a 
melted  state  and  adding  the  milk  or 
water  to  it  and  so  getting  them  mingled 
with  the  flour  instantly,  and  the  other 
slow  way  of  rubbing  the  cold  shortening 
into  the  dry  flour  with  the  hands,  be- 
comes quite  an  object.  But  I  do  not 
recommend  anybody  to  make  baking 
powder  bread  or  biscuit  an)rway,  only 
for  convenience.  It  is  dear  and  not 
nearly  so  good  as  yeast-raised  bread  and 
rolls.    This  is  the  way : 

2  quarts  or  pounds  flour  (7  centsj 

6  teaspoons,  rounded  up,  baking 
powder  (4  cents) 

Yz  cup  soft  butter  or  laid  (4  cents) 

Little  salt 

2  cups  milk  (2  cents)  or  water. 

Mix  the  powder  in  the  flour  by  rapid 
stirring  around.  Pour  in  the  shortenmg 
in  a  hollow  made  in  the  middle  and  the 
milk  (not  too  cold,  else  it  will  set  the 
shortening  in  lumps)  and  mix  up  soft. 
Press  the  dough  together  on  the  table 
and  when  worked  tolerably  smooth  let  it 
stand  a  minute  or  two  and  it  will  roll 
out  better.  Makes  about  two  dozen 
biscuits,  according  to  size. 

516— The  Round  of   Beef  for  Steak. 


We  are  going  to  get  our  meats  from 
Basswood  City  by  express  twice  a  week 
or  as  needed,  and  our  fresh  fish  from 
VVhitefish  Bay  the  same  way.  There  are 
some  fishes  in  Uintah  Lake,  but  they 
will  not  come  out  when  wanted,  so  we 
have  to  send  further.  When  I  was  at 
Basswood  I  found  the  steward  of  the 
new  Memphremagog  House  at  that 
place  was  buying  selected  round  of  beef 
instead  of  loin  for  steaks.  Not  the  com- 
mon round  steaks  which  the  butchers 
cut  straight  along  good  and  bad  together, 
but  the  tender  side  only,  cut  off  the  bone 
as  neat  and  trim  as  a  ham.  I  had  pre- 
viously written  up  and  advocated  the  use 
of  the  tender  side  of  the  round  instead  ol 
the  most  expensive  short  loins,  but  had 
in  view  the  case  of  siich  hotels  as  Black's, 
the  other  rival  house  here  at  the  depot, 
where  they  have  ninety  summei 
boarders,  at  $10  a  week,  and  still  buy 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


10 


their  beef  by  the  entire  side  at  a  time, 
hind-quarter,  fore-quarter,  neck,  shanks 
and  everything.  But  the  getting  the 
butcher  to  cut  out  the  best  piece  of 
round  for  a  house  every  day  was  new  to 
me.  The  tough  side  of  the  round,  of 
which  there  is  a  portion  in  every  whole 
round  steak,  is  about  one  third  of  it. 
Hovv  the  butcher  disposed  of  that  does 
not  concern  us,  but  he  charged  the 
steward  for  the  other  13  cents  a  pound. 
The  choice  cut  of  the  loin  at  the  same 
time  was  costing  i^  cents  and  one-fourth 
of  it  was  bone.  Twenty  pounds  of  loin 
at  15  cents  comes  to  $3.  Take  out  the 
bone  and  you  have  fifteen  pounds  of 
meat  that  has  cost  20  cents,  a  clear  dif- 
ference of  $7  on  every  hundred  pounds 
of  beef  bought.  This  meat  is  not  as 
good  as  the  best  parts  of  the  loin  but  it 
ranks  second  best,  and  is  better  than  the 
flank  part  which  every  loin  cut  carries. 
The  drawback  is  a  piece  of  the  sinewy 
end  of  the  round,  about  three  or  four 
pounds  that  become  tough  and  dry  and 
has  to  be  cut  off  to  make  either  corned 
beef  or  soup. 

There  are  plenty  of  people  to  whom 
one  beefsteak  seems  as  gooa  as  another, 
they  are  so  hungry  it  makes  no  differ- 
ence; but,  at  the  same  time  there  are 
others  whom  we  like  to  pamper  with 
choice  bits,  and  besides,  we  are  loth  to 
lose  the  rich  loin  bone  for  soup,  so  I 
called  on  the  butcher  and  arranged  that 
he  shall  send  a  round  and  a  lorn  alter- 
nately, and  that  promises  to  be  good  | 
enough.  While  that  is  on  the  way  we  | 
shall  have  to  pick  up  something  at  ''The 
Glen,"  where  the  village  butcher  kills 
something  once  or  twice  a  week,  or 
whenever  he  has  nothing  else  to  do. 

517— A  Meat  Block. 


shape  and  divide  the  tender  from  the 
tough  and  cut  out  the  superfluous  bones 
for  the  soup  boiler.  There  is  no  roal 
economy  in  the  use  of  meat  possible 
without  selection.  Our  manager  has 
been  over  to  "  The  Glen."  He  does  not 
know  one  piece  of  meat  from  another 
and  is  proud  to  say  so,  because  he  is  a 
college  graduate  and  is  going  to  be  a 
lawyer,  and  he  has  brought  back  some 
beefsteak  that  nobody  can  eat.  It 
would  require  a  person  to  have  cast-iron 
jaws.  Round  steaks  cut  low  down  on 
the  leg  of  a  very  tough  old  ox.  But  we 
must  do  something  with  it  and  the  wood- 
man must  saw  off  the  butt  of  a  tree  for  a 
block. 


There  is  as  yet  no  meat  block  in  the 
kitchen,  but  one  must  be  procured  soon. 
The  block,the  same  as  all  butchers  have, 
but  small,  is  the  first  sign  of  the  differ- 
ence between  professional  cookery  and 
poor  Mary  Jane's  fried  victuals.  It  is 
all  Greek  talking  about  selecting  choice 
parts  of  meat  to  those  who  don't  know 
the  use  or  see  the  need  of  having  a  meat 
block.  It  is  part  of  a  cook's  trade  to 
know  how  to  select  and  he  must  have  a 
block  to  saw  and  chop  upon,  to  trim  and 


Dinner. 


Beefsteak  stewed  in  gravy  20 

Potatoes  (4  cents)  mashed  with  but- 
ter 7 
Green  peas  from  garden                    15 
Com,  I  2-11)  can                                15 
Bread    custard   pudding    (No,   113 

doubled)  16 

Rhubarb  pie,  3  large  covered  30 

Milk  4  quarts  12 

Coffee  and  tea  5 

Bread  and  biscuits  from  breakfast      5 


$1  25 


Fifteen  persons ;  8>^  cents  a  plate 


518— Beefsteak  Stewed  in  Cravy. 

Took  ij^  pounds  the  toughest  part  ot 
steaks,  cut  thm  and  stewed  two  hours  in 
water  with  small  bits  salt  pork,  salt  and 
pepper.  Put  a  spoonful  butter  in  large 
trymg;  pan,  dipped  out  pieces  of  steak 
and  simmered  in  the  butter  till  all  light 
brown,  added  heaping  tablespoon  flour, 
stir  to  mix,  then  the  reduced  liquor  this 
was  stewed  in,  poured  through  a  strainer. 
Let  stew  together  ten  minutes  longer  to 
become  thick  smooth  gravy.  Served  like 
steak  in  individual  dishes. 


519— Covered  Rhubarb  Pie. 


Took  8  cups  flour  (2  pounds,  7  cents.] 
2  cups  butter  (i  pound,  19  cents.) 


II 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


Rubbed  together  dry  and  wetted  with 
two  cups  water  (No.  20.) 

Lined  three  pie  pans,  dinner  plate 
size,  cut  up  into  them  raw  rhubarb  in 
very  small  pieces  (4  cents)  and  spread 
over  it  a  pound  of  sugar  (8  cents). 
Covered  with  very  thin  crust,  cut  off 
by  pressing  the  paste  against  edge  of 
plate,  baked  light  colored.  One-third 
the  paste  left  over.  Cut  pies  in  five 
each ;  2  cents  each  plate. 

520— A  Bill  of  Groceries  and  the  Cost. 


We  are  now  to  make  out  an  order*  and 
send  to  Lakeport  for  a  store-room  stock 
of  groceries.  The  great  exjjenses  are 
going  to  be  for  perishable  provisions,  for 
meat,  butter,  eggs,  cream,  milk,  fruits 
and  such  things  as  people  go  to  the  coun- 
try expecting  to  enjoy  m  abundance. 
Besides  those  there  is  a  bewildering  lot 
of  articles  to  be  always  on  hand  and  it 
saves  a  great  deal  worry  and  a  good 
many  forced  journeys  to  get  them  to- 
gether all  at  once.  The  hostess  laughs 
when  this  is  mentioned,  saying  she  has 
always  been  in  the  habit  of  looking 
through  a  cook  book  when  this  ordering 
was  to  be  done,  to  be  reminded  of  things 
that  would  be  wanted.  This  time,  how- 
ever, we  will  dispense  with  the  cook 
book  lest  it  lead  us  to  order  articles  that 
would  not  be  needed  once  in  a  year. 
The  following  is  what  we  ordered  and 
the  prices  they  cost.  The  calculation 
was  fbr  one  month's  supply  with  the  ex- 
pectation of  a  big  business  to  be  done — 
for  a  house  of  this  size : 
Sugar,   granulated,   small  barrel, 

221  @  7  $15  47 

Sugar,  cut  loaf,  for  table,  35   @  S    2  80 
Sugar,  powdered  for  fruit,  etc.,  20 

@8 
Flour,  550  fi)S  _  @  3^ 


I  60 

19  25 

8  40 

6  00 


Coffee,  30  lbs,  Java  "     28 

Table  fruits  in  syrup  case    "     25 

Apples  canned  8  gals.  **     25  2  00 

Vegetables  assorted  36  cans  "     15  5  40 

Maple  syrup  6  gals  "  i  25  7  50 

Crackers,  3  kinds,  30  lbs     "      7  2  10 

Cheese  10  lbs  "     11  i  10 

Baking  powder  7  lbs  "37^  2  62 

Raisins  stoneless  cooking  14  "     10  i  40 

Nuts  assorted  18  lbs  "     15  2  70 

Tea  2  kinds  2  lbs  **    70  i  40 


Pickles  5  gals. 

Chow-chow  2  qt  bot's 

Rice  12^  lbs 

Currants  10  lbs 

Vinegar  5  gals 

Cocoanut  5  lbs  bulk  not  sweet 

@ 
Gelatine  4  packages  " 

Codfish,  boneless,  12  lbs     " 
Sardines  3  half  boxes  " 

Prunes  5  lbs  " 

Citron  4  lbs  " 

I '.lack  pepper  2  lbs  */ 

Tapioca  154  lbs  " 

Cornstarch  2  lbs  " 

Beans,  navy  10  lbs  ** 

Beans,  dry  Lima  i5^  lbs     " 
Macaroni  7  lbs  " 

Soda,  bakmg,  15^  lbs 
Cracker  meal,  4  lbs 
Honey,  8  lbs  comb 
Oatmeal,  50  lbs 
Cracked  wheat  10  2)S  ** 

Com  meal,  33  lbs  " 

Graham,  8  lbs  V 

Pie  fruits,  2  doz,  2-5)  cans 
Raisins  table  layer  J^  box 
Cayenne  pepper 
Worcestershure   sauce  i    qt-for 

cruets 
Chocolate  i  lb 
Mustard  i  lb 
JSalt,  table,  8  sacks 
Salt,  rock,  for  freezing,.  J^bbl 
Vanilla  extract,  ]^  pint 
Lemon  extract,  ^  pint 
Nutmegs,  2  ozs 
Spices,  5  sorts,  5  ozs 
Ginger,  2  ozs 
Cream  tartar  5^  lb 
Molasses,  i  gal 
Mustard,  French^  z  bet's 
Barley,  i  lb 
Lobster,  i  can 


8 

7 
20 

20 

I 


16 
I2>^ 

S 
S 

? 
3 


SO 
20 
00 
70 
00 

00 
60 
08 


80 

SO 
12 
20 
40 
II 
49 

^1 

1  00 

2  50 
«;o 


24 

jj  50 

75 

5 

90 
40 

io° 

7S 

6s 
10 
12 
5 
25 
so 
21; 


25 


$106  46 


Freight  charges  on  above  $3  06  cents, 
which  m  round  numbers  we  tack -on  to 
the  sugar,  making  all  the  sugar  cost  8 
cents  a  pound. 

521— Cooking  Tough   Steaks. 


Supper.     Cooked  the  bettC!f*faft*frf! 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


12 


handsome  young  manager's  tough  beef- 
steak. First  cut  in  two  ounce  pieces; 
pounded  it  both  with  back  of  cleaver  and 
side  until  beaten  out  thin  (it  draws  up 
thick  again  in  cooking)  drew  out  coals 
in  front  of  fire  and  made  the  gridiron  hot. 
Brushed  both  sides  of  steaks  with  brush, 
dipped  in  melted  butter  to  prevent  stick- 
ing to  bars,  broiled  over  the  coals  about 
three  minutes.  Ours  are  all  "well-done"" 
people,  but  must  cook  the  steaks  rare  to 
De  eatable,  and  then  disguise  them  with 
gravy. 

522— Beefsteak    jfaravy. 


524~Why   the    Codfish    was    Dark. 


J?ut  in  a  pan,  butter  size  of  an  egg, 
level  teaspoon  black  pepper,  little  more 
of  salt  and  two  tablespoons  water;  drop 
in  the  rare-cooked  steaks  and  set  the  pan 
over  the  coals  a  minute  or  two.  The 
gravy  that  runs  irom  the  meat  mingles 
with  the  rest  and  makes  a  rich  gravy  that 
many  will  like  better  than  the  meat  it- 
self. 

Oatmeal,  i   heaping   cup    when  raw 
W2  lb,  2^  cents.) 

Beefsteaks  twelve  (i^  lbs,  19  cents; 
gravy,  2j^  cents.) 

Codfish    in  cream  (J^  lb    codfish  5, 
milk  and  butter  2 — 7.) 

Potato  cakes  (mashe4,  leftfrom  dinner, 
2  cents.) 

French  rolls,  thirty-five  (3  lbs  flour, 
etc..  15  cents.) 

Milk  {4  qts,  12  cenfs.j 

Butter  {%  lb,  10  cents.) 

Coffee  and  tea  (8  cents.) 

Cream  to  coffee  and  oatmeal  <i  pint, 
10  cents.) 

Eggs,  I  order  3. 

96  cents.      16   persons;  6-  cents    a 
plate. 


523— Potato  Cakes   or  Pats. 


All  cold  mashed  potatoes  can  be  used 
by  pressing  them  into  little  pats  like  bis- 
cuits with  plenty  of  flour  on  the  outside 
and  browning  first  one  side  and  then  the 
other  in  a  trying-pan  with  very  little 
drippings  or  butter.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  popular  ways  of  serving  potatoes. 


"It  is  a  pretty  good  supper  bill-of- 
fare,  but  wnat  makes  the  codfish  in 
cre;^m  so  dark?"' 

That  is  what  the  chief  cook  of  the 
New  Hebrides  Hotel  wanted  to  know 
when  he  stopped  one  night  on  his  travels 
— not  at  this  house  where  cream  is  plenty 
but  at  the  Sapolio  City  House.  No  doubt 
but  he  makes  it  sq  himself  and  thinks  it 
is  quite  a  luxury,  but  very  few  do.  One 
trouble  was,  the  milk  was  skimmed  milk 
and  half  water,  besides,  and  wouldn't 
looklike  cream  under  any  circumstances, 
and,  to  make  it  worse  the  codfish  had 
never  been  steeped  to  freshen  and 
whiten  it.  If  the  fish  has  been  forgotten 
over-night  put  it  in  a  large  pot  of  cold 
water  as  soon  as  you  remember  it  and 
let  it  slowly  get  warm  over  a  slack  fire. 
Before  it  becomes  hot  enough  to  cook  it 
pour  away  that  salt  water  and  fill  up 
again  with  cold  and  do  as  before, 
and  the  third  time  let  it  boil 
up.  '  Pick  it  apart  in  cold  water  and  it 
will  not  only  be  fresh  enough  but  quite 
white.  Put  It  in  a  saucepan  with  good 
milk,  a  little  butter,  add  a  very  little 
flour,  thickening  when  it  boils. 


525— Pickerel    Fried  irr   Butter. 


July  3.    Breakfast. 

The  early  boys  caught  something  this 
time :  rose  at  four  and  coaxed  two  ^  4-H) 
pickerel  out  of  the  lake.  There  is  as 
yet  no  lard,  no  meat  fat,  bacon  nor  pork 
to  fry  them  in;  might  be  broiled,  but 
conclude  to  fry  in  bntter  sparingly.  Cut 
in  thin  slices  crosswise  of  the  fish,  pep- 
per and  salt  well,  dip  both  sides  in  flour. 
Put  into  the  frying  pans  only  a  little 
butter  and  fry  the  pieces  on  both  sides. 
The  pieces  are  cut  thin  to  cook  this  way 
because  butter  browns  and  burns  too 
easily  to  let  thick  slices  get  done 
through.  Take  up  on  a  hot  pan  to  drain. 
Send  m  as  soon  after  cooking  as  possible. 

Oatmeal  (25^  cents.) 

Pickerel  (3  lbs  net  @  10  cents;  butter, 
5— 35  cents.) 

Beefsteak  (remainder  of  h.  y.  m.'s 
tough,  12  cents.) 

Potatoes,  baked,  (3  cents.) 


r3 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


Biscuits  (21  cents.) 
Milk  and  cream  (22  cents.) 
Butter  do  cents.) 

Coffee,  tea,  bread,  sugar  (16^  cents.) 
$1  22.    18  persons;  nearly  7  cents  a 
plate. 


526— The  Refrigerator  Question. 


"Our  first  expressed  lot  of  meat  will 
arrive  at  noon ;  what  is  to  be  done  with 
it  to  keep  it?  The  cellar  is  as 
warm  as  out  of  doors  and  a  good  deal 
worse.  New  milk  put  down  there  at 
night  sours  before  morning.  A  ham  of 
the  janitor's  is  covered  with  blue  mold 
and  is  sticky  to  the  touch,  and  salt  and 
saltpetre  on  the  shelf  are  trickling  away 
in  moisture,  besides,  the  floor  is  muddy 
and  the  steps  are  broken  down — are  the 
other  summer  resorts  around  Uintah 
Lake  no  better  fixed — Swibob's  and 
Barnacle's  and  the  Trulirural  House?" 

"Oh,  that's  all  right;  we  are  going  to 
have  a  good  refrigerator." 

"What,  right  away,  to  be  built  now, 
in  July?" 

*'Why,  yes ;  as  quick  as  the  Fourth  is 
over  the  men  are  ready  to  come.  We 
waited  for  you  to  show  them  what  is 
wanted.  You  chalk  out  the  plan  for  an 
ice  house  and  we  can  get  plenty  of  ice  to 
fill  it." 

The  greater  number  of  refrigerators 
put  up  for  hotels  and  similar  houses  are 
milures  through  so  few  people  under- 
stdnding  really  what  is  needed  until  they 
have  learned  by  dear  experience.  A  re- 
frigerator must  be  dry  as  well  as  cold, 
not  steaming  and  with  the  clammy  mois- 
ture of  a  cellar.  It  is  often  a  good 
scheme  where  such  a  humid  vault  has 
nearly  spoiled  the  meat  in  one  day  to 
take  the  meat  out  and  hang  it  in  the 
open  air  wrapped  in  a  sheet  and  so  keep 
it  a  week  longer.  Such  a  failure  of  a 
refrigerator  as  that,  is  a  positive  damage 
instead  of  benefit. 

It  should  be  conveniently  located 
where  it  can  be  entered  every  few  min- 
utes, if  necessary,  without  a  long  journey 
or  a  chmbing  of  steps  each  time,  if  it  is 
not,  a  great  part  of  the  benefits  of  having 
a  perfect  refrigerator  are  lost.  And  then 
it  should  be  so  constructed  that  the  very 


frequent  opening  and\  shutting  of  the 
door  will  not  have  the  effect  of  driving  a 
warm  blast  through  the  mass  of  ice  and 
unduly  wasting  it  besides  keeping  the 
interior  of  the  refriprerator  always  warm. 
To  meet  all  requirements  some  houses 
have  several  remgeracors,  each  for  a 
special  use.  There  is  the  Tremont 
House  at  the  other  end  of  the  avenue 
with  perhaps  a  dozen,  of  all  sizes,  from 
the  large  storing  rooms  opened  only  once 
or  twice  a  day  to  the  handy  little  box 
holding  cut  meats  close. to  the  kitchen 
range. 


ICE.                                    ICE. 

Frnits  and 
Vegeubles. 

Milk  and 
Battel'. 

Meats. 

Beef. 

Plan  of  a  iarge  hotel's  cold  atore  rooms,   front  a  lew 

These  are  rooms  of  good  size,  say  6x10 
and  6  feet  high  divided  from  each  other; 
doors  opening  in  front,  with  one  large  ice 
room  above ;  all  ventilated  and  drained 
and  forming  one  gjeat  ice  house  with 
double  walls  filled  with  pulverized  char- 
coal.   Thb  is  built  in  a  dry  basement. 

Out  at  the  Bubbling  Springs  House 
they  have  a  good  ice  house  "that  is  made 
to  serve  for  many  purposes,  and  it  is 
built  out  of  doors,  just  four  steps  from 
the  kitchen  door  and  therefore  quite 
handy.  It  is  good  because  it  is  well 
constructed  with  thick  double  walls 
well  filled  in  and  is  roomy,  perhaps  10 
xio  inside.  It  is  a  two-story  building, 
the  ice  chamber  being  above;  the  ice 
blocks  resting  upon  a  frame  of  oak  scant- 
ling. A  zinc-covered  floor  leads  off  the 
water;  the  communication  with  the  room 
below  is  hy  af)ertures  along  the  sides  of 
the  floor.  The  roof  is  flat  and  covered 
deep  with  gravel.  A  spreading  cedar 
tree  partly  protects  it  from  the  sun'o  rays. 
The  defects  of  this  ice  house  are  these : 
It  is  but  one  room  and  it  is  the  one  re- 
frii^erator  that  must  be  used  for  every- 
thing. When  the  door  is  open  the  entire 
refrigerator  is  open  and  the  hot  summer 


SAN  JiRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


^4 


air  rushes  up  into  the  ice  chamber — and 
the  dcx)r  is  opened  every  few  minutes 
through  the  day.  Then  it  has  no  win- 
dow, and  the  cook  having  excellent 
reasons  for  keeping  his  meat  block  with- 
in it  and  cutting  the  meats  there  must 
keep  the  door  open  while  at  work.  It  is 
more  than  probable  that  several  hun- 
dreds pounds  of  meat  and  tons  of  ice  are 
lost  every  summer  through  the  general 
unhandiness  and  incompleteness  of  the 
refrigerating  arrangements.  A  very  bad 
break  of  this  sort  exists  at  the  Balbriggan 
House,  where  the  arrangements  are  gen- 
erally very  good,  and  a  seemingly  perfect 
square  room  refrigerator,  with  ice  cham- 
ber above,  as  in  the  preceeding  speci- 
men, stands  conveniently  at  one  end  of 
the  kitchen.  But  when  the  carpenter 
work  on  this  one  was  nearly  finished,  it 
happened  that  no  sawdust  could  be  ob- 
tained. As  it  was  winter  time  there  was 
no  immediate  need  experienced ;  the  re- 
frigerator was  finished  up  without  either 
sawdust  or  charcoal  being  filled  in  the 
double  wall  and  it  remains  so  still,  serv- 
ing as  a  receptacle  to  melt  away  from 
two  to  three  tons  of  ice  each  week  with 
very  little  effect  in  cooling  anything  in 
the  heated  season. 

These  one-room  refiigerators  are,  how- 
ever, not  the  sort  to  have  unless  there 
can  be  more  than  one-or  two  of  them  in 
a  house,  each  devoted  to  a  different  pur- 
pose. 

The  great  International  Cafe  had  to 
undergo  two  changes  of  proprietors  and 
be  partly  remodeled  within  before  it  ever 
became  the  successful  restaurant  where 
elaborate  little  meals  made  up  of  the 
most  diverse  orders  of  viands  could  be 
obtained  in  a  reasonably  short  time  after 
the  order  was  given.  There  being  no 
room  and  no  calculations  made  in  the 
building  for  a  convenient  refrigerator 
a  number  of  small  ice  boxes  were  first 
resorted  to,  set  in  all  sorts  of  out  of  the 
way  comers,  one  holding  one  thing  and 
another  something  else,  and  it  often 
happened  that  every  one  of  them  would 
have  CO  be  visited  before  the  required 
articles  were  put  together.  A  cook  can 
perhaps  travel  twelve  miles  up  and  down 
stairs  in  twelve  hours  or  sixteen  miles 
through  several  halls  and  passages  and 
back  again  in  sixteen  hours  if  he  is  re- 
quired to  do  so,  but  he  cannot  cook 


many  dinners  at  the  same  time. 

Thus  it  was  when  the  waiters  would 
come  rushing  into  the  kitchen  singing : 
"Hey ;  where's  my  order?  Where's  the 
cook?''  The  vegetable  woman  would 
answer:  "The  cook?  he's  gone  a  travel- 
ing down  to  the  big  ice  box  and  when  he 
gets  there  he'll  go  excavating  through  the 
ice  to  find  something,  but  I  guess  he'll 
be  back  in  half  an  hour." 

When  the  source  of  trouble  at  length 
became  fully  understood  at  the  Interna- 
tional Cafe,  something  was  pulkd  down 
and  a  refrigerator  half  as  long  as  the 
kitchen  was  puilt  along  the  wall  opposite 
the  range  with  so  many  compartments 
that  it  was  hardly  possible  for  an  oider  to 
come  that  the  material  could  not  be 
found  in  one  of  these  drawers.  Since 
that  time,  instead  of  one  cook  and  a 
losing  business,  the  cafe  has  kept  six  or 
eight  busy,  and  had  a  profitable  career. 


TOP. 

ICE.                          ICE.                         ICE. 

Quail. 

1 

■\ 

1 

Steaks. 

Cutlets. 

Fish. 

Frogs. 

S 

Crab. 

Croquettes. 

Tripe. 

Brains. 

1 

In  all  cases  the  construction  ought  to 
be  planned  in  view  of  the  fact  that  cold 
air  descends  and  warm  air  rises  In  the 
specimen  above  marked  out  the  pro- 
visions do  not  come  in  contact  with  the 
ice.  The  long  box  at  top  is  filled  with 
broken  ice  and  has  a  zinc  floor  and  the 
drawers  slide  in  and  are  cooled  from 
above  through  slits  in  the  zinc  so  made 
that  the  water  cannot  drip  through.  Of 
course,  like  all  ice  boxes,  the  walls  are 
double  and  the  lid  which  is  drawn  up  by 
means  of  a  rope  and  pulley  is  the  same. 


rs 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


The  common  square  ice  box  filled 
with  broken  ice  is  also  a  good  keeper  of 
fish  and  similar  kinds  of  provisions  that 
are  not  injured  by  water.  Put  frogs'  legs, 
lamb's  fries,  brook  trout  and  a  few  such 
articles  in  muslin  bags  and  bury  them  in 
the  ice  and  they  keep  a  long  time  and 
can  be  withdrawn  easily  when  wanted  ; 
but,  with  that  the  usefulness  of  such  a 
box  ends,  for  meat  is  injured  by  being 
kept  wet  and  by  being  washed  after  lying 
on  ice,  and  pans  set  on  top  of  ice  are  set 
in  the  wrong  place,  they  should  be  be- 
neath it. 

In  order  that  it  may  be  clearly  seen 
how  much  is  required  of  a  hotel  refrigera- 
tor for  all  purposes  let  us  look  at  the  in- 
ventory of  the  contents  of  one  for 
one  day.    There  are : 

Beef  loins  and  roasts— always  keeping 
a  supply  ahead  to  allow  it  to  improve  by 
keeping  and  become  tender. 

Cut  meats  and  small  meats — pans  of 
steaks,  chops  and  sliced  ham,  loin  of 
veal,  mutton,  lamb,  liver,  etc.,  all  car- 
ried in  warm. 

Brine  keg  for  corned  beef  and  tongues 
— it  must  stand  in  a  cold  place  or  the 

Eickle  will  spoil  in  the  course  of  three 
ot  days  ana  all  the  newly  added  [meat 
with  it. 

Butter — oneiar  at  least,  for  cooking, 
and  probably  the  table  butter  likewise. 

Lard — a  can  put  in  in  a  melted  state. 

Yeast — a  jar  just  made  and  brought  in 
warm. 

Milk  and  cream — the  cans  warm  from 
the  dairy  wagon  and  the  milk  pans  from 
the  kitcnen  for  the  milk  to  be  poured  in, 
all  brought  in  to  be  made  cold. 

Fruit  and  melons — they  will  not  be  fit 
for  the  table  unless  cooled. 

Ham  and  corned  beef  for  supper— just 
out  of  the  broiler  and  brought  m  smok- 
ing hot. 

Roast  meats  left  from  dinner— brought 
in  warm  from  the  carving  table  also 
gravies  and  sauces,  a  dish  of  fish  and 
plates  of  croquettes  or  other  side  dishes 
to  be  saved  for  another  day. 

Potatoes  cooked  to  be  ready  to  slice 
up  for  breakfast,  dishes  of  peas  and  com, 
half  a  pudding,  some  cooked  codfish,  a 
dozen  bunches  of  celery,  two  or  three 
pies. 

These  things  and  more  brought  in  for 
this  meal  and  soon  taken   out  for  the 


next  cause  the  ice  house  door  to  be  al- 
ways in  motion. 

Some  reader  will  say  this  thing  or  that 
shall  not  be  put  in,  but  managed  some 
other  way,  but  it  is  futile  fighting 
against  the  inevitable.  Perhaps  a  gallon 
of  boiling  hot  mush  will  be  stopped  at 
the  door  and  forbidden  to  be  put  in; 
but,  will  be  lelt  on  the  kitchen  table  and 
never  be  cold  enough  to  slice  and  fry  in 
the  morning  and  so  next  night  the  re- 
frigerator will  catch  it.  That  is  what  it 
is  for.  There  should  be  a  good  one  and 
large,  if  only  one  is  to  be  built. 


527~A  Good  Hotel  Refrigerator^ 


The  annexed  diagram  explaining  the 
form  and  construction  of  a  refrisjerator 
that  was  found  to  meet  all  the  require- 
ments at  a  certain  popular  hotel,  was 
printed  some  time  ago  m  "Hotel  Meat 
Cooking"  since  when  I  have  heard  of 
two  or  three  hotel  keepers,  who  could 
be  named,  having  built  refrigerators  in 
their  houses  after  Ithat  pattern  and  they 
approve  it.  It  seems  advisable  therefore 
to  reproduce  it  here,  as  it  is  at  least  a 
safe  pattern  and  not  like  a  thing  untried. 
The  dimensions  might  be  varied  to  suit. 

This  gives  a  front  view  as  the  interior 
appears  when  the  doors  are  open.  The 
height  inside  is  six  feet ;  depth,  ft-ont  to 
back,  five  and  a  half  j  the  middle  com- 
partment for  the  ice  is  three  feet  wide ; 
the  cold  rooms  on  each  side  three  and  a 
half.  The  drip  from  the  ice  is  led  away 
by  a  zinc  drainer,  and  the  space  below 
is  both  dry  and  cold.  The  outside  walls 
are,  of  course,  double,  and  filled  in  with 
ei^ht  inches  of  dry  sawdust.  This  re- 
fir^erator  is  built  close  by  the  outer  door 
on  one  side  of  a  cellar  basement,  the 
storeroom  being  directly  opposite.  It  is 
elevated  a  step  or  two  from  the  door. 


SAN  J^RANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


i6 


Ez: 

-E. 

— 

■ — 

B 

A 

B 

— 

C 

Dz: 

hd 

says  Mr.  Farewell,  "how  much  ice  will 
it  take?'* 

"You  will  require  two  tons  a  week,  be- 
cause, out  of  the  same  stock  of  ice  the 
Ice-pitchers  will  be  filled,  ice  cream 
made,  and  ice  for  the  various  other 
needs  taken.  An  ordinary  two-horse 
wason  bed  full  is  about  a  ton  of  blocks 
of  ice." 


openmg 


528— Potato   Cream    Soup 
Meat. 


Without 


A  Place  for  the  blocks  of  ice 
in  front. 

BB  Cold  rooms  fitted  with  shelves. 
Front  doors. 

C  Space  under  ice  floor  and  zinc 
drainer  where  milk  and  butter  may  be 
kept.    Front  door. 

DD  Small  doors  opening  into  the  ice 
box  letting  the  cold  air  in. 

EE  Small  doors  open  into  a  ventilating 
pipe  letting  the  warm  air  and  vapor  out. 

Shelves. 

One  of  the  two  rooms  can  be  used  to 
hang  joints  of  meats  upon  hooks  set  un- 
der the  shelves  and  be  opened  only  at 
long  intervals  while  the  other  side  used 
for  various  purposes  may  have  the  door 
in  almost  constant  swing,  and  instead  of 
letting  a  warm  blast  be  forced  through 
the  ice  every  time  the  door  is  banged,  a 
self-acting  spring  door  over  the  aperature 
D  closes  with  the  momentary  pressure. 

Milk  and  butter  easily  take  the  flavors 
of  other  articles  of  provision  such  as 
onions  and  celerv,  stored  with  them; 
hence,  the  use  of  naving  a  special  com- 
partment for  them  in  the  refrigerator. 

It  is,  unfortunately,  a  very  common 
supposition  that  the  cellar  is  the  best 
place  for  the  refrigerator,  while,  on  the 
contrary,  it  is  generally  the  very  worst. 
A  halt-cellar  or  basement  partly  above 
ground  and  with  a  free  circulation  of  air, 
IS  likely  to  be  the  best;  and,  yet,  some 
of  the  cooling  rooms,  which  it  is  a  pleas- 
ure to  enter,  where  everything  has  the 
cool,  fresh  and  solid  appearance  of  a  dry 
winter's  day,  though  the  mercury  outside 
has  climbed  up  into  the  nineties,  are  built 
in  recesses  left  for  them  in  the  walls  of 
the  buildings  on  the  same  levels  as  the 
dining  room  and  kitchen. 
"When  I  get  my  refriergator  built 


Neither  meat  nor  soup  .vegetables  in 
house.    Took : 

8  potatoes 

I  quart  skimmed  milk. 

I  quart  water 

^  cup  butter 

Carrots  and  onions  from  garden,  very 
small,  about  ^  dozen 

Salt,  pepper,  slight  grating  of  nutmeg. 

Use  two  saucepans.  Boil  the  potatoes 
in  salted  water  m  one;  the  vegetables, 
cut  or  chopped,  in  water  in  the  other. 
When  the  potatoes  are  well  done  drain 
them,  mash  with  the  milk  and  butter  and 
stir  through  a  seive  or  strainer  into  the 
other  saucepan  containing  the  vegetables 
The  soup  should  be  of  the  consistency  and 
appearance  of  cream  with  the  minced 
vegetables  showing  plainly.  A  little 
flour  thickening  may  be  needed  or  more 
milk. 


Dinner. 


Potato  cream  soup  (3  quarts,  10  cents.) 
Pickerel,    boiled,    butter    sauce    (30 

cents.) 
Roast  loin  of  mutton  (5  lbs,  55  cents.) 
Potatoes    steamed    and    browned    (3 

cents.) 
Tomatoes  stewed  (i  can,  15  cents.) 
Bread  custard  pudding  with  sauce  (No. 

113  9  cents.) 
Cherry  p  es  (2  made  of  i  can,  14  cents ; 

crusts  4  cents.) 

Milk,    coffee,  tea,   butter,   bread  (20 

cents.) 
$1  60;  17  persons,  g]^  cents  a  plate. 


tne 
lit,"  L 


Meat  arrived  at  noon. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


Loin  of  mutton  charged  @  ii  cents. 

Lej;of  veal  @  12^. 

Beef  loin  ©15. 

Liver  at  12^.  ' 

Sweetbreads  free. 

These  prices  are  too  high.  They  are 
the  prices  that  prevailed  in  ISpring,  but 
meat  becomes  cheap  in  July  if  ever. 
Write  to  the  butcher. 

Box  of  fish  packed  in  ice  arrived, 
charged  19  lbs  @  7  cents,  and  expressae;e 
to  pay. 

So  we  are  to  have  the  refrigerator  of 
2he  last  pattern  shown  in  diagram  built 
in  a  room  back  of  kitchen,  where  for- 
merly was  a  bedroom.  The  elevation  is. 
right  for  easy  drainage.  A  grove  of  pine 
and  black  oak  shades  the  roof. 


Supper. 


First  meal  that  caused  talk.  Superb 
French  rolls;  fine  creamery  butter.  Not 
much  besides,  but  these  are  a  feast  by 
themselves. 

Calf's  liver,  fried,  plenty  of  gravy  (10 
cents.) 

Cold  roast  mutton  from  dinner 
(charged  that  meal.) 

Baked  potatoes  (18,  3  cents — half  left.) 

Molasses  pound  cake,  warm  (i^  lbs, 
14  cents.) 

French  rolls  (30,  12  cents.) 

Butter  (12  ounces  @  24,  i8  cents.) 

Milk  (3  qts.,  19  cents.) 

Cream,  coffee,  tea,  etc.,  (19  cents.) 

85  cents;  17  persons,  5  cents  a  plate. 

529— Fried    Liver   and    Gravy. 

Only  about  half  the  people  anywhere 
will  order  liver  when  there  is  an  alter- 
native of  cold  meat  or  something  else. 

Cut  about  8  thin  slices,  which  will  be 
little  over  half  a  pound.  Lay  theni  in  a 
frying  pan  with  some  drippings  or  bacon 
fat  and  fry  brown  on  both  sides.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper  while  cooking. 
Take  up  the  liver  and  put  into  the  pan  a 
heaping  lablespoonful  of  flour  and  when 
that  has  been  stirred  around,  a  cupful  ot 
hot  water.  Let  boil  up  and  strain  over 
the  liver. 

530— How  To  Bake  Potatoes. 


there  is  no  better  way  than  baking  or 
roasting  either  for  ootatoes  that  cost  five 
for  a  cent  or  large  truffles  that  cost  five 
dollars  each.  Pick  out  the  largest  and 
smoothest  potatoes  to  bake  because  any 
size  will  do  to  pare  and  mash  and  even 
if  a  person  should  waste  part  of  a  too 
large  one  on  his  plate  it  would  slill  be 
the  cheapest  dish  of  the  meal.  After 
washing  well  cut  off  the  ends  of  the 
potatoes.  It  may  not  make  them  any 
mealier,  although  some  suppose  it  does; 
but,  it  makes  them  look  better,  and  as  if 
they  had  been  cared  for.  Put  them  in 
the  oven  as  a  rule  just  one  hour  before 
the  meal.  When  done  instead  of  sliding 
them  into  a  hot  closet  or  under  the  stove 
to  become  dry  and  worthless,  take  up 
each  one  in  a  damp] towel  in  the  hand 
and  press  it  gently  together  and  after 
that  cover  the  pan  containing  them  with 
the  same  damp  cioth  and  keep  them 
warm. 


531— Molasses  Pound  Cake. 


Though  there  are  fifty  other  good  ways 


This  will  be  found  quite  an  acquisition 
to  the  list  of  cheap  and  easy  cakes: 
I  cup  sugar,  small — 6  ounces. 
I  cup  butter — 6  ounces. 
I  cup  molasses — 12  ounces. 

1  cup  milk. 

2  eggs. 

6  cups  flour — ji^  pounds. 

I  teaspoon  each  of  ground  ginger  and 
*-innamon. 

Make  the  butter  soft  and  mix  it  and 
sugar,  m9lasses,  milk,  eggs,  and  spices 
together  in  a  pan.  Mix  the  powder  in 
the  flour,  then  stir  that  in  and  beat  up 
thoroughly.  Bake  in  two  small  cake 
moulds.  Makes  3  lbs  @  9  cents  a 
pound. 

This  cake  can  and  ought  to  be  made 
with  a  cup  of  sour  milk  instead  of  sweet, 
and  a  teaspoon  of  soda  instead  of  the 
ijowder— only  sour  milk  is  not  always  at 
hand  to  use. 

532— French    Rolls. 

As  a  rule  a  pound  of  light  dough 
makes  10  rolls  of  such  a  size  that  most 
persons  take  two  at  a  meal;  but,  as  it 
to.kes  half  a  pound  of  liquid  to  make 
dough  of  one  pound  of  flour  if  we  have 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


i8 


three  pounds  of  dough  and  make  thirty 
rolls  of  it  they  contain  only  2  pounds  of 
flour,  costing,  probably,  7  cents.  The 
cost  is  increased  by  a  few  enriching  in- 
gredients and  the  yeast.  To  make 
10  or  12  rolls  out  of  a  pound  of  dough, 
however,  we  must  raise  them  as  light 
and  large  as  it  is  possible  to  do,  like  the 
best  baker's  buns  for  lightness,  only  bet- 
ter eating,  and  we  have  no  calculations 
made  for  poor  Mary  Jane's  squatty  little 
lumps  of  Qough  that  she  calls  rolls.  It 
seems  so  easy  to  make  fine  rolls,  es- 
pecially with  the  compiessed  yeast  that 
nas  of  late  years  come  into  general  use 
that  the  wonder  is  how  anybody  can 
make  bad  ones  even  if  they  try.  Gen- 
erally the  failure  seems  to  be  owing  to 
not  using  enough  yeast,  not  setting  the 
dough  in  a  suitable  place  to  rise  and  not 
giving  the  rolls  time  to  become  as  light 
as  they  might  be  in  the  pans  before 
baking.  I  think  if  those  who  keep 
boarders  could  know  what  an  advantage 
this  cheap  luxury  of  fine  rolls  is  to  a 
house — even  to  the  extent  of  bringing  a 
higher  price  for  board — there  would  be  a 
general  cultivation  of  the  art  Of  domestic 
bread  making.  It  does  no  good  to  make 
fine  rolls  only  once  in  a  while  and  miss 
the  mark  twice  as  often;  and,  perhaps 
that  is  where  the  difficulty  lies,  the  con- 
stant care  to  do  always  the  same  way  at 
different  times  being  so  hard  to  exer- 
cise. 

1  am  asked  "Do  you  put  eggs  in  the 
rolls,'*  and  the  answer  is  no — not  in  the 
every  day  kind  that  is  good  enough  for 
anybody  all  the  year  round ;  but,  there 
are  varieties  of  rolls  of  different  degrees 
of  richness  that  are  made  with  eggs,  such 
as  butter  rolls  and  tea  cakes.  It  is  not 
so  much  what  they  contain  as  the  way 
the  dough  is  managed  that  makes  them 
good.    Take : 

2  quarts  or  pounds,  or  8  cups  flour. 
2  large  cups  sweet  milk  (water  will  do.) 
I  cent's  worth  compressed  yeast. 
I  tablespoon  sugar. 
|4  tablespoon  salt. 
Butter   or    lard    size   of   an    egg — 2 

ounces. 

If  the  rolls  are  for  6  o'clock  supper, 
any  time  in  the  forenoon  will  do  to  mix 
the  dough.     Noon  is  a  good  time  in 

summer.     Make  a  hollow  in  the  flour,    

dissolve  the  yeast  in  the  milk  and  pour  I  he 


it  in,  add  the  sugar,  salt  and  half  the 
shortening,  stir  up  into  stiff  dough,  turn 
it  out  on  the  table  and  work  it  well  with 
the  knucklej.  ^  Slightly  grease  the  bot- 
tom of  the  mixing  pan  which  you  have 
scraped  out  clean,  press  the  lump  of 
dough  down  into  the  greased  pan  and 
turn  the  greased  side  up— which  prevents 
a  crust  drying  on  the  dough  while  it  is 
rising  and  helps  the  appearance  of  the 
rolls.  Then  set  the  pan  on  an  upper 
shelf  where  it  will  be  warm  and  let  stay 
there  until  3  o'clock.  At  that  time  work 
the  dough  on  the  table  again  and  put  it 
back  to  rise  another  hour  or  more. 

Work  the  dough  again  with  the 
knuckles,  roll  it  out  to  a  thin  sheet. 
Brush  over  with  the  remaining  butter  or 
lard  melted,  cut  out  with  an  oval  cutter, 
double  over,  place  in  a  pan  far  enough 
apart  not  to  touch,  rise  an  hour  and 
bake  in  a  hot  oven  about  eight  or  ten 
minutes.  Brush  over  with  clear  warm 
water  when  done. 

Mrs.  Tingee  looked  incredulous  when 
I  told  her  to  bake  these  rolls  only  8  or  10 
minutes— thought  they  would  not  be  well 
baked  but  they  will.  Had  to  explain 
that  the  lighter  an  article  is  the  quicker 
it  bakes— that  a  souffle  or  meringne  may 
be  done  through  in  three  minutes ;  a  per- 
fect sponge  cake  will  bake  in  20  minutes 
because  it  is  light  and  full  of  air 
spaces  while  a  fruit  cake  of  the  same 
size  requires  2  hours.  Rolls  are  spoiled 
by  dry  baking.  Hotel  cooks  have  their 
ovens  hot,  hotter,  hotest. 

There  is  a  patent  roll  cutter  made  and 
for  sale,  which  forms  the  rolls  of  the  right 
shape  and  makes  the  depression  across  the 
middle  to  fold  them  over  by.  The  size 
of  the  rolls  may  be  governed  by  the 
thickness  or  thinness  to  which  the  sheet 
of  dough  is  rolled.  In  order  that  these 
or  any  sort  of  rolls  may  have  a  good  reg- 
ular shape  it  is  necessary  after  the  dough 
has  been  kneaded  and  rolled,  to  let  it 
alone  a  few  minutes  while  you  get  pans 
ready  or  do  something  else  that  it  may 
lose  the  elasticity  which  causes  it  to  puii 
back  out  of  proper  form. 

533— About  Compressed    Yeast. 


There  are  but  few  towns  now  where 
compressed  yeast  cannot  be  obtained, 
'     express  senice  being  so  nearly  uni- 


19 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


versal.  Thb  yeast  is  a  great  saver  of 
time  and  trouble.  Although  the  ex- 
pense of  purchasing  it  may  amount  to 
several  dollars  during  a  season  at  a  resort 
it  is  money  well  spent  if  there  is  anv  busi- 
ness done  worth  counting  at  all.  It 
comes  in  cakes  wrapped  in  tin-foil  which 
retail  at  2  cents  or  5  cents,  according 
to  size.  Will  keep  about  a  week  in  cool 
weather  or  in  a  refrigerator,  but  should 
be  obtained  from  the  manufacturers 
frcoh  every  day  or  two  if  possible.  It  is 
the  quickest  kmd  of  yeast,  as  by  using 
a  double  quantity  good  rolls  and  bread 
can  be  made  ana  baked  within  three  or 
four  hours.  To  use  it  take  half  a  cake 
or  more,  crumble  it  mto  tepid  milk  or 
water  and  let  it  dissolve,  then  pour  all 
into  the  flour.  Those  who  cannot  obtain 
the  compressed  yeast,  or  who  object  to 
the  expense  of  it  can  find  full  directions 
for  making  yeast  of  the  best  and  strongest 
liquid  sort  at  Nos.  257  and  258. 

Breakfast. 


July  4. 

Oatmeal  i  cup  raw,  2  cents. 

Beefsteak  (2  pounds  loin,  clear,  4c 
cents.) 

Eggs,  scrambled  (6  orders,  12  eggs,  17 
cents.) 

Potatoes,  stewed  in  cream  (7  cents.) 

Biscuits  {2  doz.,  15  cents.) 

Batter  cakes  (cheapest;  3  pints  batter, 
8  cents.) 

Syrup  (t2  cents.) 

Butter  (i  pound  for  table  and  steak, 
25  cents.) 

Milk,  cream,  coffee,  tea,  22  cents. 

$1  48;  19  persons,  nearly  8  cents  a 
plate. 


134— Potatoes    Stewed    i.r*.    Cream. 


Variously  called  stewed  potatoes, 
minced  potatoes  in  cream,  and  other 
ways,  and  a  favorite  way  with  many 
people.  Take  cold  cooked  potatoes, 
slice  them  as  thin  as  possible  into  a  stew 
pan,  pour  in  good  milk  to  come  up  even 
with  the  sliced  potatoes  and  set  over  the 
fire.  While  it  is  heating,  chop  the  po- 
tatoes small  with  a  knife  point,  add  salt, 
butter  and  cream,  according  as  can  be 
afforded.    When  made  as  most  people 


like  them  these  are  almost  as  thick  as 
mashed  potatoes. 

535— blabber  Batter   Cakes. 


About  the  easiest,  quickest  made  and 
best  batter  cakes,  are  made  with  only 
four  ingredients,  viz-,  "clabber,"  or  milk 
curdled  by  souring,  flour,  soda  and  salt. 

Take  a  little  sifted  flour  in  a  pan, 
add  the  "clabber"  until  it  can  be  stirred 
to  the  proper  consistency  to  bake  on  a 
griddle,  then  add  a  little  salt  and  soda. 
There  is  no  measure  to  give  only  that  in 
a  general  way  2  cups  of  sour  milk  needs  i 
teaspoon  of  soda. 

When  you  make  other  flour  batter 
caKes,  syrup,  eggs  and  shortening  are 
needed — the  syrup  to  make  them  brown 
easily — but  these  "clabber"  cakes  need 
nothing  but  what  is  named  above. 

This  is  the  Fourth,  the  great  excursion 
day.  Flags  are  flying  at  the  large  hotels 
at  the  depot  and  at  the  Trulirural  House. 
There  is  some  danger  that  a  few  of  the 
straggling  excursionists  may  come  to  bur 
house  to  dinner  and  we  are  not  prepared. 
Stores  have  not  arrived ;  scarcely  a  thing 
in  the  house  besides  the  meat  and  fish. 
So  much  uncertainty  it  is  useless  to  pre- 
pare extra  dishes  or  even  ice  cream,  but 
it  is  well  enough  to  make  a  little  larger 
quantity  of  such  plain  things  as  we  must 
have. 

Dinner. 


Tomato  and  green  pease  soup  (4  qts. 
28  cents.) 

Fillet  (leg)  of  veal  stuffed  {4  pounds 
veal,  52,  and  dressing  5;  ^7  cents.) 

Potatoes  mashed  and  browned  (10 
cents.) 

Com  (i  can,  15  cents.) 

Plum  pies  (4  covered,  of  two  cans 
plums  28 ;  sugar,  6 ;  crust,  10 ;  44  cents, 
24  cuts.) 

Cream  curd  pudding  with  sauce  (al- 
lowing full  price  for  the  soured  milk,  27 
cents.) 

Second  cooking : 

Fish,  fried  (12  pieces,  2%  lbs  gross,  25 ; 
lard,  5 ;  30  cents.) 

Mutton  chops  (2  pounds,  24  cents.) 

E^gs  (6,  special  order,  8  cents.) 

Milk  (6  quarts,  18  cents.) 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


30 


Bread  (15  cen*vS.) 
Cream  (i  qt.,  20  cents.) 
Coffee  (one-third  pound,  10  cents.) 
Butter,  sugar,  etc.  (20  cents.) 
Total  dinner,   $3  26;  30  persons,  11 
,  cents  a  pi  ate. 

In  this  case  it  turned  out  as  was  half 
expected  lor  at  just  about  the  time  that 
the  regular  dinner  was  ended  there  came 
two  little  parties  of  five  and  six  persons 
respectively,  making  eleven  more  to  fur- 
nish dinner  to.  Such  little  parties  com- 
ing on  the  heels  of  a  meal  are  generally 
profitable  to  the  hotel  keeper.  On  this 
occasion  there  was  enough  soup,  coffee, 
potatoes,  pudding  and  pie  remaining  and 
the  fish  and  mutton  chops  specially 
cooked  made  up  a  good  and  plentiful 
dinner  at  an  additional  expense  of  less 


(No.  171)  the  fillet  of  veal  being  the  same 
as  the  round  of  beef  and  solid  meat. 
The  dressing  is  pressed  into  the  cavity 
left  by  removing  the  bone,  and  inclosed 
also  by  the  skirt  of  fat,  which  should 
be  left  on  the  meat  drawn  close  and  tied 
around  with  twine.  The  surplus  stuffing 
may  be  baked  in  a  small  pan  and  served 
with  the  meat  and  gravy.  For  best 
stuffing  see  No.  62.  Half  the  quantity 
will  serve  for  veal,  and  an  egg  added 
will  make  it  richer.  Drippings,  lard  or 
butter  can  be  used  instead  of  suet. 


538— Cream  Curd   Piidding 


Our  wretched  cellar  sours  the  milk 


than  a  dollar.    The  party  of  eleven  con-   ^^hy^^^erful  ra^^^^^^^^        ^Thl.^^nln^ 

tributed  so  cents  each,  the  regular  price  \  P^^  "^  f^^^  ^^  this  place.     This  morn- 

-•'  >  &         f        jjjjg  ^gg(j  some  curdled  milk  lor  batter 


per  me2l. 

In  calculating  quantities  to  be  pre- 
pared it  is  never  necessary  to  count  one 
portion  of  every  dish  to  each  person. 
Perhaps  some  who  take  fish  will  decline 
meat,  or  will  take  com  and  not  potatoes, 
and  only  half  the  number  will  call  for 
pie. 

536— Tomato   and    Green  Pea  Soup. 


One  of  the  best  looking  soups  when 
the  pease  are  green  and  the  soup  is  rich 
colored.  This  day  it  was  the  soup  of 
necessity  rather  than  choice  for  in  truth 
we  had  a  half  can  of  tomatoes  (8  cents) 
and  nothing  else  for  soup  unless  the  late 
and  neglected  garden  would  yield  some 
trifles.  Found  a  few  green  pease,  not 
enough  to  use  as  a  vegetable,  but  about 
two  cupfuls  (10  cents)  are  plenty  in  soup, 
also  some  carrots  and  onions  as  thick  as 
straws.  Where  there  are  no  herbs,  or 
cloves,  or  parsely  a  very  small  quantity 
of  the  feathery  green  carrot  leaves  may 
be  used  with  advantage,  minced  and 
dropped  in  the  soup  just  before  serving. 
Made  tomato  soup  as  directed  at  No. 
166,  and  let  the  green  pease  cook  in  it 
about  one-halt  hour.  Made  four  quarts 
and  used  one-half  can  tomatoes.  Little 
burnt  sugar  to  improve  the  color. 

537— Stuffed  Fillet    of  Veal. 


The  same  in  the  main  as  the  brisket 


cakes  and  still  there  remained  4  quarts 
more,  and  part  of  it  was  cream.  It 
would  make  good  cream  cheese  or  smear- 
kase  if  it  could  be  spared,  but  there  be- 
ing none  of  the  usual  pudding  ingre- 
dients in  the  house  this  comes  in  oppor- 
tunely for  a  good  pudding.  Curd  from 
the  cheese  vats,  that  has  been  curdled 
with  rennet  and  is  not  sour,  is  the  chief 
ingredient  in  the  genuine  cheesecakes  of 
old  Maryland  cookery;  mixtures  made 
too  rich  for  everyday  dinners.  This  is  of 
the  same  kind  and  can  be  baked  without 
a  crust  of  pastry ;  it  is  a  pudding  and  not 
a  tart  or  pie. 

I  pound  or  little  more  of  scalded  curd. 

J^  teaspoon  soda. 

%  cup  sugar. 

^  cup  butter. 

I  cup  fine  or  minced  bread  crumbs. 

I  cup  milk. 

Nutmeg  or  other  flavoring. 

3  eggs. 

it  does  not  make  much  difierence  how 
the  ingredients  are  put  together,  but  it  is 
best  to  first  take  the  dry  articles  and 
pound  thena  smooth  and  then  add  the 
eggs  and  milk. 

To  obtain  the  curd  set  the  pan  con- 
taining a  gallon  of  curdled  milk  on  the 
stove  when  it  is  not  very  hot  and  let 
come  to  boiling  heat,  then  pour  it  into  a 
fine  strainer  or  in  a  napkin  to  drain. 

There  will  be  nearly  a  two-quart  pan 
of  pudding  from  the  above  ingredients.. 
Bake  light  brown  and  serve  with  a  sauce. 


21 


COOKING  FOR  PROFI i\ 


Supper. 


A  fragmentary  meal.  Great  rival  dis- 
plays of  fireworks  getting  ready  in  the 
shrubbery  of  all  the  resort  houses  around 
the  lake.      Nobody  caring  about  eating. 

Oatmeal  {2  cents.) 

Cold  veal  (8  slices,  charged  at  dmner.) 

Fried  liver  (10  cents.) 

Beefsteak  (i  pound  flank,  13  cents.) 

Codfish  in  cream  (5  cents.) 

Potatoes  baked  (3  cents.) 

Smearkase  (No.  388— of  2  qts.  milk, 

^  cents.) 

French  rolls  (45,  20  cents.) 

Cake  (12  cents.) 

Butter  li  lb.  creamery,  25  cents.) 

Milk  and  cream,  (22  cents.) 

Cofiee,  sugar,  etc.  (10  cents.) 

$1  30;  22  persons,  6  cents  a  plate. 

"Alter  the  Fourth,"  says  the  reburt 
proprietor,  "we  must  begin  and  get 
ready  for  the  rush." 

"Will  there  be  a  rush?'* 

"Oh,  the  people  have  to  come  some- 
time—they  always  do." 

"There  has  nobody  come  yet — seems 
to  be  getting  late." 

"No,  this  isn't  late,  it  is  early.  I  never 
looked  for  anybody  to  come  until  after 
the  Fourth." 

"No?" 

"They  cannot;  the  schools  don't  close 
till  now,  the  weather  is  cool  at  their 
homes  all  through  June;  the  Govern- 
ment employes  do  not  take  their  vaca- 
tion till  now  and  so  many  people  will 
not  leave  their  homes  for  lear  they  may 
be  burned  up  on  the  Fourth,  or  be  en- 
tered by  roughs." 

"And  yet  Black's  Hotel  over  here, 
has  had,  so  they  say,  ninety  boarders  for 
a  week  or  two  past." 

"Oh,  well,  the  people  he  gets  would 
not  come  here,  anyway,  and  they  that 
will  come  here  would  not  go  there.  He 
lets  them  fiddle  and  dance  all  night  if 
they  wish  to,  and  drink  beer,  and  row 
boats  and  sail  and  fish  on  Sundays." 

"They  would  not  stay  here  a  minute" 

"I  suppose  not." 

"Ana  biiii  they  pay  Black  about  nine 
hundred  dollars  a  week 

"Well,  I  don't  expect  this  thing  to 
make  any  money,  but  if  it  pays  its  own 
expenses  and  keeps  me  and  my  family 
piv:uisantly  I  shall  be  satisfied." 


"I*m  afraid  your  profits  will  never 
compare  with  Black's  profits," 

"Well,  well;  we  will  be  virtuous  and 
we  shall  be  happy." 

529— Shall  We  "hav7  a  Bill-of-Fare? 


The  answer  that  was  reached  when 
this  question  was  discussed  at  this  place 
was,  that  a  bill-of-fare  is  a  luxury  that 
shonld  be  indulged  in  if  possible  and 
that  in  this  case  it  could  be  adopted  for 
dinner  and  was  necessary,  but  was  not 
needed  for  breaskfast  or  supper  to  an  ex- 
tent commensurate  with  the  trouble  of 
preparmg  it 

At  the  Pansyblossom  House  where  I 
put  in  one  summer  they  had  never  be- 
fore run  a  bill-of-fare  but  were  quite  de- 
lighted with  the  apparent  ease,  the  neat- 
ness and  economy  of  the  bUl-of-fare 
plan.  I  heard  somebody  saying,  when 
the  busy  season  was  over,  that  the  pro- 
prietor intended  to  run  a  bill  all  through 
the  rest  of  the  year  after  that  "for  then 
instead  of  settmg  out  a  lot  of  dishes  to 
each  person  he  would  only  have  to  g?ve 
them  what  they  called  for.  The  sequel 
to  that  stor}'  I  never  knew,  but  feel  sure 
the  bili-of-fare  was  not  kept  up.  It  is 
harder  for  the  cook  and  requires  knowl- 
edge of  tne  names  of  dishes  that  poor 
Mary  Jane  does  not  possess.  Here  at 
Uintah  Lake  it  was  allowed  that  it  would 
be  the  stylish  thing  to  have  one. 

"But  1  don't  see  how  we  can"  says  the 
landlady. 

"Didn't  you  have  a  bill-of-fare  last 
year?" 

"Why,  no,  of  course  not.  The  girls 
just  called  off  what  we  had." 

"Were  they  sweet-voiced  German 
girls,  like  these  who  cannot  warble  out 
the  names  of  our  dishes  with  any  more 
distinctness  than  an  opera  singer  might 
give  the  words?  And  if  so  I  don't  see 
now  you  ever  let  your  guests  know  what 
you  had  for  them  to  choose  from.  The 
Dills  cannot  be  printed  daily  in  this  coun- 
try place.  We  can  get  blanks  printed 
however,  and  write  the  dishes  in  the 
proper  places." 

"When  I  was  clerk  at  the  Rushbottom 
House  at  Limbertown,"  says  the  mana- 
ger, "we  used  to  have  seven  different 
Biils-of-fare  all  printed  at  once,  one  lor 
each  day  of  the  week  so  when  Monday 
came  around  we  brought  on  the  Mon- 


SAN  JPRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


22 


day  bill  and  so  on  through  the  week — 
why  would  not  that  do  here?" 

"Would  not  do  at  all  because  of  the 
location  for  one  thing,  for  it  will  pften 
happen  that  not  a  single  dish^  that  is  on 
your  bill-of-fare  can  be  obtained  when 
wanted ;  but  it  would  not  do  for  other 
reasons,  because  such  a  way  defeats  the 
object  of  having  a  bill  and  makes  the 
hotel  like  an  almshouse  or  House  of 
Correction  where  they  have  a  certam 
fare  for  each  day;  their  boiled  beef  day, 
their  suet  puddinsj  day,  their  pork  and 
beans  day  and  so  on  perpetually." 

Then  the  housekeeper  spoke  up ; 

"At  the  Water  Cure  Home  at  Camp- 
meetingville  in  the  Great  Frying  Pan 
Valley  we  used  to  get  along  very  well 
with  having  the  waiters  call  off  what  we 
had,  but  then  we  never  had  but  two 
kinds;  still,  that  seemed  to  be  enough." 

"Ah,  yes,"  chimed  in  the  proprietor 
facetiously,  "but  this  will  not  be  a  water 
cure  so  much  as  a  sort  of  hunger  cure, 
and  we  must  have  variety.  If  we  don't 
feed  the  people  well  they  may  be  going 
ovtr  to  tne  Trulirural  House  where  they 
can  board  cheaper." 

"It  is  impossible,"  the  cook  said,  "to 
set  a  superior  table  and  distance  rival 
houses  or  to  get  the  full  credit  of  your 
more  liberal  providing  without  a  bili-of- 
fare.  Suppose  we  have  but  two  kinds  of 
meat,  there  will  be  and  ought  to  be 
about  six  kinds  of  vegetables,  which  are 
cheap  and  attractive  if  properly  cooked  | 
and  which  make  up  a  good  meal,  and  it 
would  be  tedious  to  call  off  so  many 
while  very  few  at  table  would  really  have 
opportunity  enough  to  choose  what  they 
wished  as  they  do  from  a  piinted  list. 
There  is  just  one  other  way;  that  is,  to 
call  the  meats  only,  and  set  out  the 
full  array  of  everything  else  that  is 
ready  in  small  dishes.  Plenty  of  people 
like  that  way  best,  for  they  get  plenty  set 
before  them  and  eat  whatever  strikes 
their  fancy.  The  great  objection  to  it  is 
the  great  waste  entailed.  I'he  perfection 
of  all  plans  is  to  have  a  new  bill-of-fare 
printed  for  each  meal  that  comes,  break- 
fast, lunch,  dinner,  supper,  always  new. 
That  method  leads  to  the  smallest  pro- 
portion of  waste  and  greatest  freshness 
of  cooked  dishes.  The  expense  of  so 
much  printing  and  the  fact  of  there  be- 
ing so  litde  to  change  in  the  breakfast 


and  supper  menu  leads  nearly  all  hotel 
keepers  to  get  the  bills  for  these  meals 
printed  once  for  all,  the  same  bill  for 
weeks  or  months,  while  they  change  the 
dinner  bill  every  day.  Rather  than  do 
this  I  would  'call  off  the  breakfast  and 
supper  and  have  but  few  dishes;  for 
dinner,  as  said  before,  a  written  or 
printed  bill-of-fare  is  indispensable." 


Breakfast. 

Baked  Pork  and  Beans. 
Tea,  Coffee  and  Chocolate. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

White  Rolls.      Muffins.      Corn  Bread* 

Griddle  Cakes. 

Dry  Toast.   MUk  Toast  Buttered  Toast. 

Chipped  Beef  with  Cream. 

Oat  Meal  Mush. 

BROILED. 

Beefsteak,  plain  or  with  onions. 

Mutton  Chops.    Pork  Chops. 

Breskfast  Bacon.    Ham.    Veal  Cutlets. 

EGGS. 

Boiled.    Fried.    Scrambled.    Poached. 
Omelet. 

FRIED., 

Liver  and  Bacon.     Codfish  Balls. 

Fresh  Fish.         Mush.         Sausage. 

Corned  Beef  Hash. 

POTATOES. 

Baked,  Fried,  Lyonaise,  Stewed. 

In  order  to  point  out  the  the  detriment 
these  unchangeable  breakfast  cards  are 
to  the  quality  of  the  dishes  served,  here  is 
a  copy  of  one  that  was  in  use  at  a  good 
two-dollar-a-day  hotel.  There  are  so 
many  articles  offered  to  the  person  at 
table,  there  are  too  many,  but  no  more 
than  rival  houses  offer  and  no  more  than 
is  expected.  It  was  a  rule  of  that  land- 
lord that  nothing  must  be  crossed  off  his 
bills. 

"Our  list  is  so  small,"  he  would  say, 
"that  we  cannot  afford  to  drop  even  one 
dish  from  it."  Consequently,  although 
the  meats  might  be  cooked  only  as 
wanted  there  were  many  other  articles 
that  were  necessarily  prepared  before- 
hand and  by  the  usual  contrariness  of 
the  luck  when  the  corned  beef  hash, 
the  com  bread,  codfish  balls,  or  what-, 
ever  else  was  fresh  made,  as  good,  as 


^3 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


bright  colored,  as  rich,  as  well  flavored 
as  It  could  be  there  would  not  be  one 
order  for  it;  but,  when  it  had  been  put 
away,  brought  out  again  and  wanned 
over,  lost  its  furst  good  quality  and  looked 
common  and  stale,  then  by  the  same 
blessed  luck,  everybody  in  the  dining- 
room  would  be  seized  with  a  desire  to 
have  some.  Did  we  try  another  way  and 
make  only  five  codfish  balls  instead  of 
twenty— determined  not  to  have  any  left 
over— that  very  morning  at  least  twenty- 
five  people  would  call  for  codfish  balls 
at  once. 

But  here  at  Uintah  Lake  we  will  not 
have  any  breakfast  or  supper  bill  and 
you  shall  see  how  we  will  make  the  cod- 
fish balls  go,  each  one  to  its  proper 
plate. 

Mr.  Farewell's  consultation,  as  it 
seemed  to  be,  with  the  manager  and  the 
house-keeper  wai  only  a  pretense  for  the 
purpose  of  reconciling  them  to  the  daily 
task  in  store  for  one  or  other  of  them  of 
writing  in  the  blank  menu  for  dinner,  for 
he  had  long  ago  decided  that  point  for 
himself  and  taken  pride  in  selecting  a 
handsome  heading  of  fine  type  with 
flourishes,  which  announced  that  this 
was  the  dinner,  on  such  a  date,  at  The 
Eyrie,  Uintah  Lake,  State  of  Cornuco- 
pia, John  Smith  Farewell,  proprietor: 


Dinner. 


ROAST. 


BOILED. 


SOUP. 


FISH. 


ENTREES. 


VEGETABLES. 


PASTRY  AND  DESERT. 


Assorted  Nuts.    Raisins.    Tea.    Coffee. 


That  is  a  copy  of  our  blank  bill-of- 
fare,  as  simple  as  could  be  made,  having 
the  headings,  and  blank  spaces  for 
writing  in.  It  seems,  at  first  glance, 
that  a  number  of  stand-by  dishes  such  as 
roast  beef  and  mashed  potatoes  might  as 
well  be  printed  in  and  save  so  much 
writing;  curiously  enough,  however,  ex- 
perience shows  that  your  boarders  look 
only  at  the  writing  and  you  seldom  get 
a  call  for  anything  that  is  in  print.  Let 
there  be  stewed  tomatoes  printed  in 
place  under  the  vegetable  heading  and 
one  can  will  last  a  week,  but  write  stewed 
tomatoes  and  you  need  two  cans  in  one 
day.  It  should  be  all  written  or  aU 
pnnted. 


Breakfast. 

July  5- 
No  oatmeal  in  house. 
Veal  steaks  {2  lbs,  26  cents.) 
Mutton  steaks  or  rough  chops  (2  lbs, 

22  cents.) 
Butter  gravy  for  meats  and  eggs  (6  oz, 

7  cents.) 
Stowed  eggs  (22  eggs,  28  cents.) 
Potatoes    minced   and     browned.    (7 

cents.) 
Biscuits  (14  fresh  made,  8  cents.) 
Rolls  (14  lefi  last  meal  warmea  over.) 
Batter  cakes  (No.  402—1  qt,  8  cents.) 
Coffee  5,  tea  i,  milk  12,  creaai  10, 

syrup  10,  butter  ^  lb,  10,  bread  baked 

IS- 

$1  69;  21  persons,  8  cents  a  plate. 

540— Broiled  Mutton  Chops. 


Lay  the  chops  on  a  plate  and  touch 
both  sides  with  the  butter  brush.  Broil 
over  clear  coals  about  five  minutes,  turn- 
ing over  only  once. 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  into  a 
tin  pan,  together  with  as  much  water 
and  a  pinch  of  salt  and  pepper.  Shake 
together  and  when  the  chops  are  done 
let  ihem  lie  in  the  pan  and  form  their 
own  gravy. 

541—Stewed  Eggs. 


These  are  eggs  poached,  a  large  num- 
ber   at    once,    then    partly    chopped. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


24 


seasoned  and  dished  up  by  spoonfuls. 

Drop  into  a  saucepan  of  water  that  is 
boiling  gently  (See  No.  93)  about  a  dozen 
eggs  and  cook  medium  or  until  the  yolks 
begin  to  harden,  then  either  drain  away 
the  water  or  dip  the  eggs  into  another 
vessel.  Throw  m  a  few  small  lumps  ot 
butter,  salt,  and  if  you  have  white  pep- 
per a  little  of  that.  Cut  each  egg  in  four 
with  the  edge  of  a  spoon. 

542— Potatoes  Minced  and  Browned. 


edge,  and  you  have  a  long  roll  of  dough. 
Place  it  in  the  tin  and  brush  over  with 
the  brush  dipped  in  a  teaspoonful  of 
melted  lard  and  set  on  a  warm  shelf  to 
rise.  The  use  of  beinp  particular  how 
you  fold  up  the  dough  is  that  if  done 
right  the  loaves  rise  even  and  smooth 
without  a  break,  but  if  wrong  they  rise 
and  split  open  at  one  end.  This  is  a 
daint)^  sort  of  bread  that  makes  baker's 
bread  ashamed. 

Dinner. 


At  No.  82  find  potatoes  minced  and 
browned  in  entire  dishes  for  restaurant 
orders.  At  No.  534  find  potatoes  minced, 
in  cream.  Another  way  is  to  put  the 
minced  cold  potatoes  in  a  baking  pan, 
mix  in  a  little  mUk,  butter,  pepper  and 
salt  and  brown  the  surface  in  the  oven. 
Serve  spoonfuls  in  flat  dishes. 


543— To  Warm  Over  Rolls. 


Take  rolls  left  over  from  the  previous 
meal,  place  in  a  pan  and  cover  with  a 
wet  cloth,  half  a  cotton  flour  sack  or 
piece  of  old  table  cloth  dipped  in  water 
will  do.  Set  in  the  oven  and  by  the 
time  the  cloth  is  dry  the  rolls  will  be  as 
good  as  if  fresh  baiced — for  such  as  are 
not  critical  judges  of  fresh  bread. 

Some  nights  when  the  bands  are  play- 
ing and  rockets  flying  it  is  exceedmgly 
inconvenient  to  stay  at  home  and  mix  I 
dough,  and  a  pan  of  rolls  left  over  on  \ 
purpose  may  do  to  satisfy  the  inexorable 
breakfast  bill-of-lare  at  such  a  time. 


544— Fine  Bread. 


Lake  trout,  baked,  gravy,  (2  lbs,  20 
cents.) 

Veal  pot  pie  (meat,  24,  crust,  4—28 
cents.) 

Potatoes  mashed,  browned  (5  cents.) 

No  other  vegetables  in  house. 

No  butter  in  house. 

Cherry  pies  (2  with  1  can  cherries,  14; 
crust,  4;  sugar,  2 — 20  cents.) 

Cottage  pudding,  hot  cream  sauce  (2 
lbs,  20  cents.) 

Milk,  cream,  coffee,  tea  (26  cents.) 

$1  19;  20  persons,  6  cents  a  plate. 

That  meal  used  up  last  of  first  lot  of 
meat  except  sweetbreads  reserved. 

Bought  jar  fresh  butter  at  neighboring 
creamery  at  20  cents  a  pound.  Bought 
canned  goods  at  country  store. 

545— Veal  Pot  P.e. 


If  such  good  bread  can  be  afforded  the 
receipt  for  French  rolls  (No.  532)  may  be 
used.  That  quantity  makes  two  loaves. 
After  it  has  been  kneaded  on  the  table 
the  last  time,  as  if  for  rolls,  divide  it  in 
two  and  work  up  into  round  shape,  then 
let  them  remain  a  few  minutes  while  you 
grease  two  long  and  deep  bread  tins. 
Take  your  loaves,  the  rough  under  side 
up,  and  press  a  long  depression  down 
the  middle  with  the  knuckles.  Then 
fold  over  one  edge  into  the  depression 
and  press  that  down;   then  the  other 


Put  into  a  saucepan  the  pieces  of  veal 
that  will  not  slice  into  neat  cutlets,  rinse 
off  with  cold  water,  then  fill  up  and  boil 
about  half  an  hour.  Take  up  the  meat 
and  cut  it  all  into  neat  pieces  as  near  one 
size  and  shape  as  can  be,  put  in  another 
saucepan  or  other  pan  and  pour  the 
liquor  it  was  boiled  in  to  it  through  a  fine 
strainer.  Put  in  a  slice  of  salt  pork,  an 
onion,  half  blade  of  mace  or  half  tea- 
spoon of  powdered  sage  whichever  may 
be  at  hand,  for  all  are  good  seasonings 
for  veal ;  boil  half  an  hour  longer,  add 
salt  and  pepper  and  thicken  with  flour 
mixed  with  water.  Then  drop  spoon- 
fuls of  dough  on  the  surface,  set  in  the 
oven  and  let  cook  about  twenty  minutes. 
Milk  may  be  added  to  the  liquor  some- 
times for  a  change,  making  a  white  stew 
and  then  there  should  be  a  little  greea 
parsley  in  it. 


?5 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


The  use  of  taking  out  the  meat  and 
cutting  when  half  cooked  is  for  the  bet- 
ter appearance  on  the  dishes,  as  the 
pieces  keep  their  shape  and  may  be 
placed  two  in  a  dish  with  a  light  dum- 
Ung  on  top. 

.46— Pot  Pie  Dumplings. 


To  make  them,  whether  dropped  far 
apart  as  aumplings  or  close  together  as 
one  covering  of  crust,  so  that  they  will 
remain  lir^ht  after  cooking  and  not  go 
down  like  lumps  ot  lead,  it  is  necessary 
to  mix  the  dough  so  boft  that  it  must  be 
taken  up  and  dropped  with  a  spoon.  All 
that  is  needed  is : 

2  cups  flour. 

I  heaping  teaspoon  baking  powder. 

Salt. 

I  cup  water. 

But  sour  milk  and  soda  can  be  used 
and  save  powder.  And  to  make  a  rich 
yellow  sort  an  egg,  or  two  yolks  may  be 
added.  Mix  the  powder  in  the  Hour, 
pour  in  the  water  and  stir  hard  for  one 
minute  then  drop  into  the  boilng  stew. 


547— CottagD    Pudding. 


This,  as  well  as  the  molasses  pound 
cake  is  a  great  acquisition  to  the  list  of 
cheap  cakes,  for  a  good  sort  of  cake  it  is, 
although  served  as  a  pudding.  S9me  of 
the  large  city  bakeries  are  selling  it  now 
in  different  forms  (See  No.  285.)  It  is 
good  likewise  as  a  sally -lunn  for 
breakfast,  being  not  too  sweet  or  rich, 
but  short,  light  and  wholesome: 

1  cup  sugar — ^  pound. 
^  cup  butter— Ji  poimd. 
6  eggs. 

2  cups  milk — a  pmt. 

3  large  teaspoons  powder. 
6  cups  flour — I V2  pounds. 

Make  up  like  pound  cake  by  cream- 
ing the  butter  and  sugar  together,  add 
the  eggs  two  at  a  time  and  beat  in  well, 
then  the  milk.  Mix  the  powder  in  the 
flour  and  stir  in.  1  '.eat  the  mixture  well 
with  the  spoon. 

This  makes  two  cakes  in  the  common 
shallow  tin  baking  pans  about  ten  inches 
long.  Let  the  batter  be  less  than  an 
inch  in  depth  to  bake  easily,  and  sift 


some  granulated  sugar  on  the  surface  be- 
fore putting  in  the  oven  and  the  cakes 
will  come  out  nicely  elazed.  One  will 
serve  to  slice  for  puading  with  sauce, 
the  other  for  cake.  About  35^  pounds 
costs  28  to  30  cents. 


548— Cream  Sauce  for  Puddings. 


Boil  rich  milk  or  cream  with  stick  cm- 
namon  or  broken  nutmeg  in  it  and  sugar 
to  sweeten.  Stir  in  a  spoonful  of  starch 
mixed  with  cold  milk. 


Supper. 


No  meat  in  the  house,  b'lt  some  fish 
left  yet.  Good  country  lake  house  sup- 
per. "^ 

Fried  trout  (18  pieces,  4^  lbs  gross, 
@  8,  36;  2  eggs,  and  commeal  4;  lard, 
^  lb,  7—47  cents.) 

Potatoes  plain  boiled  (3  cents.) 
,    French  rolls  (24,  10  cents.) 

Cherries  {2  cans,  28  cents.) 

Cake  (No.  547 — 13  cents.) 

Butter  10,  milk  and  cream  20,  coffee, 
tea,  sugar  9  (39  cents.) 

$1  40;  20  persons,  7  cents  a  plate 

549-ls    Fish   Cheaper   Than  Meat? 


A  few  meals  back  some  pickerel,  home 
caught,  is  credited  in  our  account,  to 
the  boys,  as  worth  ten  cents  a  pound, 
that  is  net  weight.  That  Is  what  the 
fish  we  get  by  express  seems  to  cost  as  it 
is  put  in  the  pan.  It  is  bought  at  VVhite- 
fish  Bay  at  seven  cents,  packed  in  ice 
and  boxed;  but  it  has  to  be  expressed 
over  two  railroads  in  some  way  that 
makes  it  pay  double  rate,  and  twenty- 
five  pounds  costs  50  cents,  and  there  is 
another  carriage  from  the  depot.  Al- 
though they  come  clean  as  to  the  insides, 
the  heads,  fins  and  backbones  take  away 
one-sixth  of  the  weight,  on  an  average, 
of  different  kinds  of  fish.  Therefore,  25 
lbs  @  7  cents  and  50  cents  added  costs, 
$2  25.  Take  off  one-sixth  in  trimming 
before  cooking  and  we  have  scarce  21 
lbs  of  fish  for  that  sum,  it  being  nearer 
eleven  cents  per  poimd  than  ten.  As 
there  is  waste,  likewise,  in  all  other  kinds 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


26 


of  meat,  the  only  fair  comparison  that 
can  be  made  is  with  the  solid,  boneless 
round  of  beef  (No.  516)  which  we  buy  at 
thirteen  cents.  There  is  then  a  ditter- 
ence  of  three  cents  in  favor  of  the  fish, 
but  if  we  cook  it  by  breading  and  frying, 
the  cost  of  fish  and  meat  is  about  the 
same  and  our  fish  supper  with  fruit  and 
cake  is  not  one  of  the  cheapest  meals. 
The  conditions  are,  of  course,  only  local 
but  are  stated  at  length  because  they  are 
likely  to  be  much  the  same  at  a  great 
number  of  resort  houses. 


550— Fried  Lake  Trout. 


None  of  these  tea-kettle  cooks,  either 
in  this  house  or  around  at  the  neighbors', 
I  find,  have  ever  seen  frying  by  immer- 
sion in  hot  fat  before.  Mrs.  Tingee, 
too,  I  remember,  although  she  had  kept 
house  fifteen  years  and  a  boarding 
house  ten,  had  never  known  that  pota- 
toes could  be  cooked  by  dropping  them 
raw  into  hot  fat— as  French  fried,  and 
Saratoga  chips— neither  did  the  two 
ladies  who  boarded  with  her,  the  retail 
merchant's  wife  and  the  photographer's 
wife,  they  all  thought  that  in  every  case 
potatoes  must  be  boiled  first.  After 
thinking  it  well  over  I  concluded  not  to 
mention  frying  fish  that  way  to  her,  be- 
ing afraid  to  go  into  her  kitchen  and 
take  her  whole  pound  of  lard  at  once,  if 
I  could  ever  find  so  much  there,  and  j 

Eroceed  to  make^  it  hibsing  hot  over  the 
re,  because  it  is  dangerous  to  have  a 
kettle  of  hot  lard  on  the  fire  and  a  lady 
fainting  around,  both  at  one  time.  We 
grow  reckless  of  lard  where  we  cook  tor  a 
number  of  people  every  day,  who  pay  a 
fair  price  for  board  and  have  something 
good  to  eat,  and  generally,  besides,  have 
a  jar  full  of  roast  meat  fat  and  melted 
suet  that  helps  out  without  depending 
upon  it  except  for  a  tew  things  that  must 
be  fried  of  a  good  clean  color.  It  does 
not  really  consume  much  lard  or  fat  to 
fry  in  it,  as  the  same  can  be  used  several 
times  over  if  care  is  taken  not  to  let  it 
burn  black,  still,  in  counting  the  cost  it 
has  to  be  remembered  that  the  pound  of 
lard  put  in  the  frj'ing  pan  becomes  worse 
and  darker  with  every  frying  and  at  last 
has  to  be  thrown  away. 
Cut  the  fish  in  pieces  across  without 


splitting  it,  if  the  full  flavor  of  the 
fisti  is  desired  rather  than  the  fried  crust. 

Beat  one  or  two  eggs  with  half  their 
bulk  of  water.  Pepper  and  salt  the 
pieces  of  fish  well,  dip  them  in  tne  egg 
and  then  in  com  meal,  coat  well  by 
pressing,  then  drop  into  lard  that  is  hiss- 
ing hot  and  fry  brown,  allowing  8  or  10 
mmutes  for  the  fish  to  get  done  to  the 
bone.  Dredge  a  little  fine  salt  and  keep 
hot  in  a  pan  in  the  open  oven  until 
served 

To  fry  without  using  eg^s,  mix  i  cup 
of  flour  and  2  cups  powdered  crackers 
together.  Dij)  the  pieces  of  fish  in  milk, 
then  in  the  mixture,  coat  well,  dipping 
twice  if  necessary,  and  fry  brown.  (See 
Nos.  13,  98  and  314.) 


551    Potatoes  Plain  Boiled. 


To  go  with  hot  fried  fish  there  is  no 
form  of  potatoes  better  than  plain  boiled. 
Pare  them  first  and  put  on  in  salted 
water.  When  done  drain  off  the  water 
and  serve  the  potatoes  out  of  the  sauce- 
pan as  wanted. 


"Roll  on,  thou  deep  and  dark  blue 
ocean,  Roll!" 

Cold  day  for  resort  keepers.  Fierce 
north-west  gale  been  blowing  all  day. 
This  green  little  two-mile  lake  has  been 
trying  to  lash  itself  into  a  rage  and 
swamped  all  the  skiffs. 

Second  lot  of  meat : 

Ham  charged  @  15  cents. 

Mutton  @  10. 

Loin  beef  @  12^. 

Rib  roast  beef  @  i2j^. 

Bacon  @  i2j^. 

Salt  Pork  @  10. 

Liver  @  12]^. 

Sweetbreads,  i  H)  free. 

Some  reduction  in  prices  from  former 
lot,  but  too  high  yet,  and  the  loin  has 
over  five  pounds  of  suet  and  waste  fat 
and  mutilated  kidney  in  it,  and  they  sent 
us  no  lamb. 


Breakfast. 


July  6. 
Oatmeal  (3  cents.)' 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


Ham  broiled  (6  slices,  ii  oz.  net, 
equal  to  i  lb  gross,  15  cents.) 

Mutton  chops  broiled  (11  chops,  2  lbs, 
20  cents.) 

Poached  eggs  on  toast;  (16  eggs,  20, 
and  toast  buttered  7—27  cents.) 

Broiled  potatoes  (few,  and  baked  12, 
5  cents.) 

Batter  Cakes  (i  qt.  with  2  eggs,  No. 
403,  10  cents.) 

Syrup  do  cents.) 

Butter  (average  of  many  meals,  12  oz., 
15  cents.) 

Milk  and  cream  (average,  21  cents.) 

Coffee  and  tea  (average,  5  cents.) 

French  rolls  (16,  8  cents.) 

$1  39;  20  persons,  7  cents  a  plate. 


552-  Cutting  Up  a  Ham. 


One  of  the  most  serious  calamities  that 
ever  betalls  Mary  Jane  is  the  sending 
her  a  whole  ham  to  cut  up,  all  by  her- 
self: it  is  a  calamity  to  the  ham,  too, 
when  she  has  whittled  it  and  hacked  and 
torn  k  with  her  little  case-knife  that  she 
tries  to  sharpen  on  the  edge  of  the  stove. 
Her  reliance  and  the  reliance  of  most 
private  families  is  upon  the  butcher  gen- 
erally:, to  slice  the  ham  before  sending  it, 
but  in  that  case  good  ham  is  never  as 
eood  as  it  might  be  because  it  is  cut  too 
thick  and  being  sawed  through  the  bone 
from  one  end  to  the  other  many  of  the 
slices  are  of  such  a  sort  that  a  little  of  it 
goes  a  lon§  way.  We  have  in  our  kitchen 
a  meat  block,  a  meat  saw  and  a  small 
cleaver,  besides  good  knives.  These 
things  are  indispensable  both  ioz  econ- 
omy and  good  quality  of  the  dishes  we 
cook.  Without  them  our  choice  ham 
that  costs  iq  cents -a  pound  gross,  and 
when  the  bone  and  rind  is  counted 
out,  costs  somewhere  between  20  and  25 
cents,  might  all  have  to  be  whittled  away 
in  shreds  and  shavings  without  a  respect- 
able slice  among  them.  The  best  and 
most  saving  method  of  dealing  with  a 
ham  is  as  follows : 


^ 


First,  saw  off  the  butt  end  of  the  ham 
as  shown  above,  taking  the  projecting 
point  of  bone  that  is  easily  found  for  a 
guide  where  to  cut.  The  lower  wood- 
cut shows  the  inside  of  the  butt  where  it 
has  been  cut  and  the  black  lines  show 
where  the  knife  must  go  to  separate  the 
meat  on  both  ^  sides  from  the  irregular 
shaped  bone.  There  are  then  two 
pieces  of  ham,  all  meat,  ready  to  be  cut 
m  slices,  the  thinner  the  better,  with 
a  sharp  knife.  Then  cut  down  the  large 
or  mam  portion  as  the  line  shows,  from 
the  shank  to  the  bottom.  There  is  a 
bone  that  guides  the  knife  down  that 
mark.  All  the  piece  on  the  right  is 
solid  meat ;  the  best  part  of  the  ham,  and 
makes  the  handsomest  slices.  The 
other  side  can  be  sliced  part  way  or  be 
used  for  boiled  ham. 

'553^Broiled   Ham! 

Strange  it  seems,  but  it  will  hot  do  to 
make  a  regular  practice  of  broiling  ham 
over  the  stove  hearth  because  it  ruins 
the  stove  for  drawing.  After  broiling  a 
lot  of  ham  where  the  smoke  bova  tne 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


28 


broiling  goes  into  the  draught,  the  fire 
will  go  almost  out  and  something  gen- 
erated by  the  salt  in  the  stove  pipe  pre* 
vents  the  fire  being  good  again  for  a 
whole  day.  A  few  shoes  for  a  family 
may  be  broiled  without  the  bad  effect 
being  noticeable  but  when  the  house  is 
full  of  people  it  may  save  trouble  to  re- 
sort to  frying. 

It  was  thought  here  that  charcoal 
would  have  to  be  provided,  but  the  wood 
embers  drawn  out  into  the  ash  pan  prove 
to  be  sufficient  to  broil  over,  thus  far. 

Slice  the  ham  thin  and  broil — if  you 
can  broil  it — over  clear  coals  about  five 
minutes,  turning  it  to  get  a  good  even 
brown  on  both  sides. 


554— Poached  Eggs  on   Toast. 


A  neat  little  way  of  poaching  eggs  for 
a  few  people  is  to  take  tin  muffin  rings, 
the  kind  without  bottoms,  put  them  in  a 
frying  pan  of  salted  boiling  water  and 
break  an  egg  into  each  one  and  let  it 
cook.  Take  up  ring  and  all  with  a  cake 
turner  or  shallow  perforated  ladle  and 
take  off  the  muffin  rin^  after  the  erjg  has 
been  placed  safely  on  its  piece  of 
buttered  toast.  We  call  this  good  for  a 
few  people,  because  when  there  are 
many  it  takes  too  long.    (See  No.  96.) 

555 — Fam  y  Toast  for  Poached  Eggs. 

Cut  for  each  dish  three  slices  of  bread 
very  thin  and  quite  square  in  form. 
Toast  them,  butter  them,  place  one 
square  in  the  middle  of  the  dish.  Cut 
the  other  two  squares  across  comer- 
wise  and  you  have  four  triangular  pieces 
to  place  around  that  in  the  dish,  the 
points  oucwards. 


and  if  done  before  time  to  dish  up  can 
be  kept  hot  in  a  pie-pan  without  spoiling. 

557-   Trouble  With  the  Coffee. 


556— Broiled  Potatoes. 


They  can  be  done  in  two  ways,  either 
cold  boiled  potatoes  may  be  sliced, 
buttered  v.'ith  a  brush,  placed  in  the 
hinged  wire  broiler  and  broiled  or  toasted 
over  the  fire,  or  raw  potatoes  may  be 
done  the  same  way.  The  boiled  pota- 
toes are  quickest  done  and  are  much 
lUted.  Should  be  sprinkled  with  finely 
minced  parsley  and  with  salt  and  pepper 


We  are  having  bad  coffee,  it  is  poor  in 
taste,  worse  in  appearance;  has  that 
dirty  color  as  if  mixed  with  ink  and  none 
of  the  reddish-brown  hue  9f  good  coffee. 
People  here  don't  care  much,  as  milk 
is  the  principal  beverage  except  for  two 
or  three.  That  makes  no  difference, 
however,  for  the  coffee  must  be  not  only 
good  but  superlatively  so.  Proprietor 
good  naturedly  says  it  is  the  fault  of  that 
common  twenty-cent  coffee,  that  is  the 
only  grade  the  country  store  can  furnish, 
and  we  must  wait  until  the  good  coffee 
I  comes  with  all  the  other  groceries.  But 
it  is  not  that.  If  they  bring  coffee  that 
costs  fifty  cents  a  pound  it  will  be  as  bad 
when  made  as  this  is,  unless  there  be  some 
other  method  of  maidng  adopted.  I 
have  blamed  the  coffee  pots  and  tried 
and  discarded  three  because  they  have 
lost  their  bright  tinned  inside  and  allow 
the  iron  to  act  upon  the  coffee  and  have 
taken  to  a  bright  tin  pail,  with  some  im- 
provement but  great  unhandmess.  There 
IS  one  remedy  for  bad  coffee  but  it  is  a  last 
resort.  In  hotel  work  we  go  a  long  way 
around  to  avoid  using  eggs  to  clear  cof- 
fee with.  It  is  a  constant  tax  to  have 
to  use  half  a  dozen  eggs  every  time  cof- 
fee IS  made  when  eggs  may  be  both  dear 
and  hard  to  get,  and  we  make  fine  coffee 
without,  by  dripping  through  a  sack  into 
an  urn  that  has  an  earthen  jar  or  porce- 
lain lining  inside  instead  of  metal.  But 
here  the  common  family  coffee  pot  is  the 
only  utensil  to  use  unless  we  send  to 
Lakeport  for  an  urn. 

Tried  the  egg  remedy  and  it  proved 
satisfactory.  Put  the  grourid  coffee  in  b 
small  deep  pan  with  a  cup  of  cold  water, 
broke  in  one  egg  and  mixed  well  by 
stirrmg,  put  it  into  the  pot  of  boiling 
water  and  when  it  boiled  up  again  set  S 
off  the  fire  and  poured  in  a  little  cold 
water  to  make  it  settle.  The  coffee  is 
fine  now,  although  of  a  low-priced  sort 
but  only  as  long  as  it  remains  in  that 
ccfiee  pot.  Poured  off  soxe  into  another 
coftee  pot  to  be  clear  of  grounds  and  in 
fifteen  minutes  it  had  turned  to  the  same 


29 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


muddy,  inky  fluid  we  had  before,  while 
that  in  the  pot  it  was  made  in  remained 
good  and  bright  the  whole  day. 

The  worriment  about  poor  cofifee  is 
almost  universal.  The  egg-clearing  way 
is  well-known,  but  there  is,  even  after 
that,    some    attention   to    be    paid    to 

•  the  vessel  it  is  kept  in.  It  may  be  that 
the  good  effect  ol  the  egg  was  greatest  in 

.  coat tng  over  the  inside  of  the  cofifee  pot 
it  was  cooked  in.  At  this  place  eggs  are 
cheap  and  we  shall  use  whatever  may  be 
necessary  to  keep  the  cofifee  bright  and 
clear,  and  not  buy  an  urn. 


The  'bus    has  broug^ht  a    passenger. 
Put  him  on  the  new  register,  quick!      A 
majestic  looking  gentleman,    and  they 
say  he  is  all  the  way  from  Rome. 
Later. 

The  passenger  only  came  to  try  to  con- 
tract to  deliver  us  a  carload  of  water- 
melons every  week.  The  extent  of  our 
business  will  not  warrant  such  a  contract 
at  present.  I  would  rather  have  fifteen 
cents'  worth  of  onions,  ten  of  turnips 
and  ten  of  carrots  and  parsley  for  my 
soups.       He  thinks  we  might  club  to- 

§  ether  with  the  other  houses.  After 
inner  he  will  go  and  see  them  and  then 
he  starts  back  to  his  home  in  Rome 
(Ga.) 

558— Cocking  Sweetbreads. 


It  is  the  making  of  sweetbreads  to 
press  them  to  a  flat  shape  between  two 
pans  after  boiling  them,  and  let  them  get 
cold  that  way.  As  a  rule  they  are 
always  boiled  before  being  otherwise 
cooked ;  not  but  what  they  may  be  cut 
up  and  stewed,  or  split  qpen  and  broiled 
without  brevious  cooking  if  they  are 
calves'  sweetbreads,  and  tender,  still  it  is 
best  to  do  the  other  wa^  and  the  largest 
and  finest  that  people  will  naturally  select 
for  the  best  are  the  very  ones  that  need 
about  an  hour's  boiling  to  make  them 
tender. 

Sweetbreads  are  the  whitish  pieces  of 
soft  meat  that  look  like  fat,  found  near 
the  throat  and  the  heart  of  the  animal 
the  largest  coming  from  the  heart.  They 
are  used  extensively  as  a  fancy  meat  for 
little  side  dishes. 

When     they    first    come    from    the 


butcher's  put  them  in  cold  water  and 
after  steepmg  a  while  set  them  over  the 
fire  in  a  saucepan  of  water  to  cook  for  an 
hour.  As  they  have  an  insipid  taste  that 
is  not  improved  by  keeping,  a  little  vine- 
gar should  be  put  in  the  water  they  are 
boiled  in — about  four  tablespoons — and 
some  salt.  Take  them  up  in  a  pan  or 
dish,  put  another  on  top  of  them  and  a 
heavy  weight  like  a  i-ail  of  water  on  that. 
When  cold  you  can  split  them  into  thin 
slices  and  tnm  off  the  rough  edges. 


Dinner. 


Roast  Mutton  No.  185 — 45^  lbs,  45 
cents. 

Sweetbreads  fried  in  butter  sweet- 
breads worth  30,  and  butter  5,  35  cents. 

Green  pease  (small  quantity  from 
garden  for  garnishing  sweetbreads,  worth 
20  cents.) 

Tomatoes  (i  can,  15  cents.) 

Potatoes  mashed  with  milk  and  butter 
(6  cents.) 

Rhubarb  pies  (No.  114— 3  large, 
covered ;  cost  27  cents,  18  cuts ;  i  y^  cents 
each.) 

Cup  custard  (No.  136 — used  six. eggs 
to  a  quart  milk,  made  3  pints,  18  custard 
cups,  15  cents.) 

Milk  and  cream  average  21,  butter  and 
bread  average  12  cents. 

$1  96;  21  persons,  little  ovjer  9  cents  a 
plate. 


559— Sweetbreads  With  Green  Pease. 


Have  the  sweetbreads  previously 
cooked  and  pressed  (No.  558.)  Split 
each  in  two,  dredge  with  a  little  pepper 
and  salt  then  dip  both  sides  in  flour.  Put 
a  lump  of  butter  in  a  frying  pm  to  melt 
over  the  fire  and  lay  the  sweetbreads  in 
when  it  begins  to  froth.  Cook  them  a 
nice  brown  on  both  sides. 

Have  jgreen  pease  ready  cooked  and 
season  with  salt  only.  Serve  one  sweet- 
bread to  each  dfsh,  placed  diagonally 
with  a  spoonful  of  pease  across  each  end 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  the  butter  they 
were  fried  in  {beuerre  noir)  for  sauce. 


SAN  JFRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


SO 


560— To  Cook  Green  Pease. 


Hard  water  is  the  best  to  boil  them  in 
as  it  preserves  the  green  color.  If  they 
take  more  than  half  an  hour  to  cook  it 
shows  that  they  are  not  worth  the  name 
of  green  pease.  Very  few  people  gather 
pease  young  enough  to  be  at  their  prime 
or  seem  to  know  how  great  the  difference 
can  be.  We  get  pease  from  the  garden, 
as  good  and  better  than  the  finest 
French  canned  pease,  by  taking  them 
early. 

Have  the  water  boiling  when  you  put 
the  pease  in,  and  a  little  salt  in  it  and 
boil  gently  tUl  done.  If  old  pease,  put 
a  pinch  of  soda  in  the  water  and  keep 
stewing  an  hour  or  mpre.  Drain  off  the 
water  and  season  either  with  butter,  or 
cream  sauce.      (See  No.  50.) 

Who's  going  to  scrub  the  kitchen? 
Not  I,  of  course.  It  is  gettmg  pretty 
dirty  by  this  time,  the  stove,  too.  House- 
keeper comes  along  casually  as  it  were, 
anci  looks,  and  looks.  She  does  not  say 
anything;  she  will  never  say  anything, 
but  some  people  can  look  a  whole  vol- 
ume. I  suppose  she  had  everything 
dreadful  nice  and  clean  at  the  Water 
Cure  Home  at  Campmeetingville  in  the 
Great  Frying  Pan  Valley. 

When  I  first  came  here  I  was  allowed 
my  choice  of  four  of  the  hired  girls  to 
take  one  to  be  my  second  cook.  Was 
fool  enough  to  choose  the  prettiest  and 
smartest.  .  Guess  she  will  think  herself 
too  nice  to  scrub.  Don't  like  to  ask  her. 
Wish  I  could  swap  her  off  for  my  old 
Mike  or  Slim  Tim,  or  Reddy;  they  were 
the  boys  could  sling  a  scrub  broom  and 
were  not  afraid  of  a  kettle  of  boiling  lye 
—except  when  they  had  new  boots  on, 
which  was  about  once  a  month,  poor 
bojrs,  for  hot  lye  is  awful  hard  on  boots 

Supper. 


Butter  (table  and  steak,  i  lb,  20  cents.) 
Coffee  tea  (5  cents.) 
$1  26;j2o  persons,  little  over  6  cents  a 
plate. 


561— Sutter  Sponge   Cake. 


One  of  the  best  and  most  useful  cakes» 

I  cup  sugar — 8  ounces. 

^  cup  butter,  large — 4  ounces. 

4  eggs  (use  s  if  they  are  cheap.) 

^  cup  milk.  • 

I  large  teaspoon  baking  powder. 

3  cups  flour. 

Beat  the  sugar  and  eggs  together  a 
few  minutes,  melt  the  butter  and  beat  it 
in,  add  the  milk,  then  the  powder  and 
flour  and  beat  up  thoroughly.  Good  to 
(  bake  in  a  shallow  tin  and  frost  over  with 
I  No.  3  9r  for  layer  cakes  or  with  currants 
and  raisins  mixed  in.  About  two  pounds; 
costs  10  cents  a  pound. 


Beefsteak  (16  2-oz  steaks^  2  lbs  loin 
net,  40  cents.) 

Potatoes  baked  (15,  3  cents.) 

French  rolls  (30,  14  cents.) 

Rhubarb  sauce  (9  cents.) 

Butter  sponge  cake,  warm  frosted 
(No.  561—154  pounds,  15  cents.) 

Milk  and  cream  (20  cents.) 


Breakfast. 


July  7. 

Liver  and  bacon,  a  la  brochette- (liver 
9,  b?.con  7,  16  cents.) 

Beefsteak  broiled  (7  steaks,  i  lb-com- 
mon 15  cents.) 

Lyonaise  potatoes  (5  cents.) 

Rolls,  bread  and  toast  (16  cents.) 

Batter  cakes  (i  qt,  8  cents.) 

Syrup  do  cents.) 

Butter,  milk,  cream,  coffee,  tea  (40 
cents.) 

$1  20;  20  persons,  5^^  cents  a  plate. 


562~Calfs  Liver  a  la  Brochette. 


Take  a  thin  slice  of  liver  and  one  of 
breakfast  bacon  for  each  person  and  cut 
them  into  little  square  pieces  as  nearly 
of  one  size  as  may  be  and  place  theni  on 
tin  skewers,  a  piece  of  liver  and  a  piece 
of  bacon  alternately  till  the  skewers  are 
full.  Dredge  with  pepper,  place  them 
in  a  dripping  pan  in  the  oven,  turn 
them  over  two  or  three  times  while  they 
are  cooking  and  when  done  place  the 
liver  and  bacon  on  long  pieces  cf  but- 
tered toast  already  in  a  dish,  hold  in 


3^ 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


place  with  a  tork  while  you  draw  out  the 
dtewers,  ther.  send  it  in. 

As  only  about  half  the  people  will  take 
liver  when  there  is  other  meat,  and  as 
each  slice  weighs  but  an  ounce,  three 
quarter  pound  of  liver  and  half  pound 
bacon  serves  for  20  persons*  orders, 
Brochette  is  French  for  spit  or  skewer. 


563— Lyon&ise  Potatoes. 


Lyonaise  potatoes  are  cold  boiled 
potatoes  sliced  in  a  frying-pan,  and 
Drowned  with  a  little  minced  onion 
mixed  with  the  drippings.  But,  on  ac- 
count of  the  very  general  objection  to 
onions,  at  least  among  business  people, 
the  name  of  lyonaise  is  often  given  to  the 

Elain  article,  that  is,  to  cold  potatoes 
ied  more  or  less  brown,  in  a  little  fat  in 
a  frying-pan  without  the  onions. 

In  this  case,  having  no  parsley  I  used 
green  onions  from  the  seed  bed  very 
spannglv,  as  much  for  the  green  sprink- 
Img  as  for  taste;  partly  fried  the  onions 
in  the  drippings  before  putting  the  po- 
tatoes in.  Potatoes  this  way  should  be 
^ced  small. 

But  who  is  going  to  scrub  the  kitchen? 
My  gracious  1  And  the  housekeeper, 
from  the  Water  Cure  Home  has  been  in 
since  breakfa^jt  looking  harder  than 
ever.  And  there  is  my  "sec."  A  great 
singer  she  is,  with  not  the  least  intention 
of  having  a  scrub  out,  singing  in  chorus 
with  three  other  German  girls,  and  wip- 
ing i)ans,  not  at  the  hotel  rate  of  a  mile 
a  minute,  but  at  about  the  eighth  of  a 
mile  an  hour.  It  is  a  very  pretty  pic-nic, 
this  summer  resort  business,  at  present 
and  I  hate  to  break  it  up. 

"Shall  we  gather  at  the  rivei 
The  beautiiul,  beautiful  river." 
That  is  what  they  are  sirgmg  but  not 
in  the  same  tongue.    They  have  it : 
I 
Sammeln  wir  am  Strom  uns  Alle, 

Wo  die  Engel  wartcn  schon, 
Und  die  Wasser  wie  Crystalle 
Fliessen  bin  vor  Gottes  Thron. 

CHOR. 

la,  wir  sammeln  uns  am  Strome, 
Dem    herrlichen,    dem    herrlichen 
Strome ; 


Sammeln  uns  am  Lebens  Strom, 

Der  da  fliesst  von  Gottes  Thron. 
II 
Dort,  wo  an  des  Strom's  Gestade 

Sich  die  Silber-Welle  bricht. 
Preisen  ewig  wir  die  Gnadt 

An  dem  lag  vol!  Glanz  und  Licht# 

CHOR. 

Ja,  wir  sammeln  unsgam  Strome,  etc. 

Ill 
Ehe  wir  zum  Strom  gelangen, 

Legen  jede  Last  wm  hin ; 
Dort  als  Sieger  zu  empfangen 

Kron'  und  Purpur  zum  Gewinn. 

CHOR. 

Ja,  wir  sammeln  uns  am  Strome  etc. 

IV 
In  des  Stromes  hellem  Spiegel 

Nimmt  man  Jesus  Antlitz  wahr, 
Und  des  Todes  Schloss  und  Riegel 

Trennt  nicht  mehrdie  heil'ge  Schaar, 

CHOR. 

Ja,  wir  sammeln  uns  am  Strome  etc. 
V  ' 

An  den  Silberstrom  im  Leben 
Schliesst  sich  unser  Pilgerlauf, 

Und  des  Herzens  heilig  Lcben 
Geht  in  Wonnejubel  auf. 

CHOR. 

Ja,  v^ir  sammein  uns  am  Strome  etc. 
Dinner. 


Nudel  soup  (4  qts,  12  cents.) 

Rib  ends  of  beef  (No.  144,  but  smallei 
cuts — 30  cents.) 

I  '.rowned  potatoes  (No.  157 — 5  cents.) 

Baked  pork  and  beans  (No.  386— 
beans  i  lb,  4 ;  pork  ^  lb  5 — 9  cents  for  2 
quarts  or  10  orders.) 

Tomatoes  (i  can,  15  cents.) 

Rhubard  pie  (cheap  short  crust,  3  pie«5, 
21  cents.) 

Milk  20,  butter  5,  bread  6,  coffee  and 
sugar  6  (37  cents.) 

$1  29;  20  persons,  6J^  cents  a  plate. 

564— Nudels,    Noodles     or    Nouilles 

Paste. 


There  was  a  rather  fimny  passage  ol 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


comment  and  rejoinder  not  long  since  be- 
tween certain  New  York  and  Philadel- 
phia editors,  occasioned  by  the  former 
having  seen  "Nudels"  somewhere  for  the 
first  time  and  the  latter  remarking  that 
his  friend  would  see  nudels  or  noodles 
very  frequently  indeed  if  he  would  visit 
the  good  land  of  Pennsylvania.  It  is 
just  barely  possible  that  neither  of  these 
had  ever  recognized  * 'nudels"  in  the 
French  nouilles  soup  of  their  several  city 
hotels  and  restaurants.  Undoubtedly 
German  nudel  is  the  proper  word  and  the 
nudel  is  the  original  German  home- 
made macaroni. 

To  make  nudels  is  an  extremely  sim- 
ple matter  if  you  start  right  and  there  is 
no  real  need  of  the  trouble  being  taken 
of  drying  the  dough  before  or  after 
shredding  it.  Drop  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  in  a  cup,  add  flour  by  the  teaspoon-  j 
fill  and  a  little  salt  and  stir  together  to  ' 
make  it  a  stiff  yellow  dough.  Then  turn 
it  out  on  to  the  table  and  work  more 
flour  in  as  long  as  the  yolks  will  take  up 
any.  Next,  roll  out  the  lump  till  it  is  as 
thin  as  a  knife  blade,  dust  it  all  over 
with  flour,  cut  it  into  bands  and  lay  one 
on  tO{)  of  the  other — the  flour  keeps 
them  from  sticking  together — and  then 
with  a  sharp  knife  cut  off  the  nudels  in 
shreds  no  thicker  than  straws  and  all  of 
one  length,  which  will  be  the  width  of 
the  bands  of  dough.  Shake  the  shreds 
apart  and  dust  with  flour  and  slide  them 
into  a  dry  pan  to  keep  until  the  soup  is 
ready  to  receive  them.  Any  surplus 
flour  may  be  got  rid  of  by  shaking  the 
nudels  around  in  a  seive,  and  if  to  go  in 
a  very  clear  soup  or  consomme  (139)  they 
can  be  parboiled  separately  firet  and 
dipped  up  with  a  skimmer. 


565— Nudel   or  Noodel    Soup. 

It  has  no  particular  or  special  flavor- 
ings beyond  the  nudels  or  nouilles  paste. 
Make  as  rich  a  broth  as  the  meat  and 
bones  at  your  disposal  will  allow,  by 
boiling  them  several  hours,  with  a  bunch 
of  the  ordinary  soup  vegetables  and 
a  stalk  of  celery.  Strain  the  broth  into 
a  clean  saucepan,  skim  off  all  the  grease, 
add  a  spoonful  or  two  of  tomato  juice  or 
catsup,  salt  and  white  pepper  and  a  little 
flour  thickening,  and   if  you    wish    to 


make  it  a  prettier  color  and  show  up  the 
nudels  better  put  in  a  tablespoonful  of 
burnt  sugar  coloring.  Let  it  boil  again 
and  fifteen  minutes  before  dinner  time 
throw  in  the  nudels  and  let  cook  until 
time  to  serve. 

At  the  Monegaw  White  and  Black 
Sulphur  Springs  Hotel,  I  used  to  make 
nudel  soup  almost  daily  for  a  poor  lady 
in  the  last  stage  of  consumption  who 
could  eat  a  plateful  of  this  farinaceous 
sustenance  every  day  for  weeks  after  she 
was  past  every  other  kmd  of  food. 


566 — Beans  Baked  in  Jars,  or  Boston 
Baked,  or  Potted  Beans. 


We  see  this  dish  with  all  these  names 
and  others  besides  in  hotel  biils-of-fare. 
Thb  is  something  that  we  can  never 
have  at  this  little  summer  house,  for  the 
cooking  arrangements  are  not  right. 
There  is  a  very  wide-spread  custom 
among  hotel-keepers  of  having  baked 
beans  and  brown  bread  served  hot 
for  Sunday  breakfast.  It  is  generally 
thought  that  a  brick  oveii  is  an  indis- 
pensable requirement  for  the  baking,  yet 
at  the  Rathburn  House  at  the  Moun- 
tain Gap,  we  used  to  bake  beans  most 
perfectly  in  the  range  in  which  the  night- 
watchman  kept  up  a  slow  fire  all  night. 
On  account  of  the  expense  of  fuel  we 
only  baked  once  a  week  and  then  used 
two  jars  of  a  larger  size,  than  is  ordi- 
narily required,  that  there  might  be  cold 
beans  for  several  days  after.  For  a  gal- 
ion  jar  take : 

8  cups  of  navy  beans  (14  cents.) 

J^  cup  molasses  (2  cents.) 

I  tablespoon  salt. 

y^  pound  salt  pork  (5  cents.) 

Supposing  they  are  to  be  baked  during 
Saturday  night,  put  them  in  water  to 
soak  in  the  morning,  and  set  the  pan  in 
a  warm  corner.  At  night  drain  away 
the  water  that  remams,  put  the  beans  in 
the  jar,  also  the  molasses,  salt  and  piece 
of  pork  and  pour  in  fresh  water  enough 
to  be  about  an  inch  above  the  beans. 
Put  on  the  lid  or  a  little  plate  and  set  the 
jar  in  the  oven.  It  is  a  mistake  to  get  up 
a  great  fire  and  keep  the  beans  funously 
boiling  as  some  do,  that  try  it  for  the 
first   time;  they   have  not  the  taste  oi 


S3 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


baked  beans  when  done;  but  keep  a 
slow  and  steady  fire  and  let  the  jar  tc- 
main  in  the  oven  8  or  lo  hours.  They 
should  come  out  brown  on  top,  yet  not 
quite  without  water  at  bottom. 


567 — Canned  Tomatoes  as  a    Vege- 
table. 


Let  the  tomatoes  stew  down  to  dry  out 
the  surplus  juice  if  possible,  instead  of 
adding  bread  crumbs  to  thicken  them. 
Canned  tomatoes  are  vastly  improved  (in 
the  way  of  being  solid  packed)  over  what 
they  were  a  few  years  ago,  when  they 
were  generally  colorless  and  watery. 
While  they  are  stewing  add  salt  and  pep- 
per and  a  small  piece  of  butter  if  affprd- 
ed.  If  bread  crumbs  are  added  mince 
them,  very  fine  first,  or  better  still,  do  as 
they  do  at  Black's,  for  their  90  boarders; 
put  the  cold  rolls  in  a  pan  of  cold  water 
and  after  a  few  minutes  drain  the  water 
off  and  squeeze  the  bread  dry.  This 
soaked  and  squeezed  bread  is  called 
panada.  It  is  used  for  chicken  stufl&ng 
as  well  as  to  thicken  tomatoes. 

"When  we're  rich  we  ride  in  chaises, 
When  we're  poor  we  walk  (or  worK) 
like  blazes  r 
— Hudibras  (or  some  other  fellow.) 

The  deuce  take  this  disappointing  sum- 
mer resort  business.  Here  is  a  week  gone 
and  nobody  has  come  yet.  Proprietor 
evidently  disappointed;  feels  like  one 
forsaken ;  has  gone  and  got  a  saw  and 
hatchet  and  '"^  tearing  up  and  repairing 
the  dilapidatea  cellar  steps  with  his  near- 
ly new  nfty-doUar  summer  resort  suit  on. 
That's  a  great  way  to  save  expenses.  I 
feel  sorry  for  his  suit  but  not  so  sorry  for 
him  as  I  should  be  for  a  poor  man  who 
might  have  spent  everything  getting  ready 
for  a  resort  business  that  never  comes 
after  all.  One  week  is  nothing  if  one 
only  knew  what  is  to  come.  If  one  week 
goes  by  and  brings  nobody  why  may  not 
the  next  and  the  next?  There  may  be  a 
host  of  summer  tourists  on  the  way  v;ho 
will  fill  all  the  rooms  and  ask  for  cots  and 
tents,  and  beds  even  on  the  roof  of  the 
house,  for  all  we  know,  but  suppose  a 
rainy  spell  or  a  cold  spell  intervene  and 
they  never  get  here.  And  they  say  that 
at  this  time  last  year  there  were  over  forty 


people  visiting  here.  When  a  man  who 
has  Deen  keeping  open  house  for  years, 
at  last  provides  himself  with  a  real  hotel 
register  with  $2.00  per  day  printed  on 
the  top  of  every  page,  it  does  seem  as 
though  by  that  act  he  had  alienated 
every  friend  he  had  in  the  world.  That's 
whai  makes  the  proprietor  tired.  He  is 
tired  of  playing  the  lone  fisherman ;  tired 
of  sitting  on  the  piazza  seeing  the  'bus 
come  back  and  waiting  my  darling  sum- 
naer  boarder  for  thee ;  tired  of  hearing  his 
hired  girls  sing  the  beautiful  river;  tired 
of  seeing  his  boat  boy  in  the  big  sailor 
hat  idly  sitting  on  his  lone  rock  by  the 
sea;  tired  of  thinking  that  somebody's 
coming  when  the  dew  drops  fall;  tired  of 
resting  and  gone  to  work. 


56B— How^  to  Scrub  the^Xitchen. 


Swish,  Bang  ! 

,  Why,  it  is  a  real  relief  to  see  the  boiling 
hot  suds  and  lye  water  dash  around  and 
deluge  tables,  walls,  shelves,  stove  and 
floor  once  more,  after  all  these  years 
endurance  of  that  vile,  slimy,  push-the- 
dirt-in-the-comers-and-leave-it-there  way 
of  mopping  the  horrible  painted,  grained 
and  varnished  kitchens  of  the  present 
idiotic  fashion.  What!  let  the  spiders 
build  webs  over  the  range  and  stay  there 
the  yeararoimd  because  the  painted  walls 
are  too  good  to  have  hot  suds  thrown 
upon  them? 

Now,  I  hope  that  housekeeper  from  the 
Great  Frying  Pan  Valley  will  stay  away 
while  I  scald  something.  This  is  my 
water  cure,  and  my  old  Mike  and  Slim 
Jim  and  Reddy  know  it  is  a  good  one. 
1  want  to  scald  the  winter  and  spring 
mouldiness,  the  bugs  and  roaches,  flies, 
muddaubers,  daddy-longlegs,  spiders, 
centipedes,  mice,toads,  snails  and  things, 
and  there  will  be  no  reserved  seats  foi 
spectators  for  a  while.  One  afternoon, 
not  long  since,  I  went  to  show  an  old 
second  of  mine  who  is  pastry  cook  at  the 
Bendebeer  House  at  Bmgen-on-the- 
Bayou,  how  to  make  the  Kaaterskill  flan- 
nel rolls,  sometimes  called  German  puffs, 
that  are  just  now  the  fashion,  and  while 
there  had  a  chance  to  try  the  efficacy  of 
boiling  water.  That  house,  too,  has  a 
painted  and  varnished  kitchen  with  every- 
thing as  inconveniently  placed  as  all  the 


SAN  J^RANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


34 


modem  improvements  could  possibly  be, 
and  altogether  too  nice  for  cleanliness. 
There  are  patent  doors  with  patent  springs 
to  shut  them  up  quick  to  keep  the  fresh 
air  out;  patent  windows  with  nickel- 
plated  fastenings  and  blinds  and  screens 
and  shutters  to  keep  the  foul  air  in.  The 
meat  block  is  at  the  other  end  of  the 
table  distant  from  the  broiler;  the  pastry 
room  is  two  rooms  distant  from  the  oven ; 
the  kitchen  floor  is  covered  with  oilcloth 
and  a  girl  slimes  itoverwitha  mop  at 
eleven  every  morning,  and  the  cock- 
roach population  of  that  fine  house  is 
over  a  hundred  millions  (estimated). 
Seeing  an  odd  million  or  so  of  the  abomi- 
nable insects  roosting  in  a  bunch  under  a 
low  shelf  near  the  range  I  could  not 


and  go  back  to  their  old  haunts. 
It  is  all  egregious  folly  making  kitchens 
good  to  stand  boiling  water.      At 


too  o „ 

some  hotels  that  have  been  rebuilt  two 
or  three  times  and  thereby  cured  of  the 
first  follies  and  made  right  at  last.  They 
have  stone  floors  in  the  kitchens  even 
when  up  stairs,  and  tile  drains  where  the 
water  may  flow  free.    The  old  and  nat- 
ural style  of  kitchen  had  massive  oaken 
beams  and  rafters,  solid  oaken  tables  and 
walls  or  wainscot  that  could  be  scrubbed. 
Every  time  I  chop  the  fins  and  head  off 
a  fish,  or  strike    abroiling  chicken  with 
the   side  of  the  cleaver  to  flatten  it  for 
the  gridiron  a  spray  of  animal  juices  flies 
and  strikes  somewhere.  It  may  bescarce- 
,  ly  visible  at   one  time  yet  it  coats  over 
resist  the  temptation  to  sling  a  two-quart    the  walls  alter  a  whlie.    On  the  river  we 
dipper  of  hot  boiling  water.      Brought '  call  the  dividing  walls  bulkheads  and  we 
them  all  down  at  one  shot.    But,  as  if  that  i  used     to     scrub   these    bulkheads     as 
was  not  enough,  from  some  painted  and   thoroughly  as  the  tables  and  floors   and 
grained  little  cuddy  hole  underneath  a  lot   we    found   that   after   scrubbing     with 
of  mice  skipped  out,for  the  hot  water  had   brooms  dipped  in  a  tub  of  hot  water  con- 
lallen  into  a  breeding  place  that  had  been   taining  some  lye  or  soap,  if  the  water  we 
imdisturbed  perhaps  smce  the  house  was   rinsed  off  with  was  likewise  boiling  hot 
built.    It  being  none  of  my  funeral  I  left   the  boards  dried  much  whiter   than  if 


the  place  before  the  cook  came  home 
Swash,  Zip! 
There's  that  housekeeper  from  Camp- 
meetingville  looking  agam,  and  I  guess 
she  is  laughing  now.     But,  for  pity's  sake, 
what  made  her  skip  away  so  quick?  There 
was  no  danger.    Guess  I  can  hit  where  I 
aim,  if  she  can't,  and  did  not  aim  her  way. 
BoiUng  water  and  plenty  of  it,  is  a  good 
thing  to  fight  a  mutmous  boat's  crew  with. 
It  is  an   infallible  exterminator.     This 
method  of  hydraulic  scrubbing  is  new  to 
her.    Wants  a  hose  and  tank  of  boiling 
water  to  do  it  up  perfectly.    She  was  look- 
ing to  see  where  the  water  goes  when  it  is 
brushed  off  the  tables  and  stove  and  falls 
from  the  walls.    Where  does  she  think  it 
goes?    Where  does  she  think  the  flies 
comes  from  that  she  spends  half  her  life 
fighting  to  death  ?    They  come  out  of  the 
ground,  under  damp  floors  where  there 
are  crumbs  and  sweepings  and  decaying 
matter.    That  is  where  this  scalding  lye 
and  soap  water  is  going  and  it  wilT  kill 
more  flies  in  their  infancy  than  her  suf- 
focating insect  powder  ever  will.     Insect 
powder  does  not  kill.    It  is  necessary  to 
take  up  the  vermin  in  their  apparently 
dead  state  and  bum  them,  otherwise, 
after  a  few  hours  they  begin  to  kick,  then 
get  up  and  look  around,  snake  themselves 


rinsed  off  with  cold  water. 

"Ohl  how  white  your  tables  are  dry- 
ing? 

"Yes,  of  course  the/re  white — did  you 
think  I  was  going  to  mop  them?" 

"HouseKeeper  says  we  can  get  a  tub  of 
boiling  suds  and  do  the  pantry  that 
way." 

"Ah,  wretched  hypocrites,  you  can  get 
awfully  enthusastic  over  it  now  the  work 
is  done.    Get  out." 


It  is  not  so  mnch  of  a  pic-nic  for  the 
waiter  girls  when  these  summer   houses 
fill  up  at  last.    The  reason  why  the  girls 
at  that  same  Bendebeer  House  al  Bineen- 
on-the-Bayou  looked  so  pale  and   powd- 
ered and  rouged  so  ridiculously  was  not 
because    they  were  dissipated  as  some 
thought  and  said,   but  because  the  ne- 
cessity  of  keeping     their    pink    gowns 
starched  out  as  wiae,  stiff  and  sharp  al- 
most as  mowing  machines  robbed  them 
of  hours  of  sleep.    I  should  like  to  know 
if  anybody  thought  they  could    pay  for 
all  tnat  laundry  work  out  of  their  wages 
—their  linen  cuffs  and  little  frilled  aprons 
and  white  neck  gear,    fresh  ever  dinner 
time.    They  rose  at  three  in  the  moming 
taking  turns  by  squads  to  have  the  use* 
of  the  laundry  betore  the  regular  laundry 


35 


COOKING  FOR  PROMT. 


hands  came  on ;  in  the  interval  between 
dinner  and  supper  they  had  to  po  and  do 
something  else  to  the  duds  anc  at  night 
after  the  dining  room  doors  were  closed 
and  the  laundry  hands  had  vacated  the 
place  they  took'possessionof  the  starching 
and  ironing  tables  for  several  hours  at  a 
spell.  Misery  loves  company  and  they  did 
not  seem  to  know  they  were  suffering  as 
long  as  all  the  other  girls  had  to  go  through 
the  same  ordeal.  But  it  did  make  them 
pale  and  gaunt  to  a  degree  that  the  regu- 
lar day  work  alone  would  not  have 
done.  Then  they  piled  on  the  artificial 
colors. 


569— Trouble  witn  Steam  Chest  and 
Vegetables. 


The  caustic  concentrated  lye  we  buy 
in  cans  has  to  be  used  in  moderation ;  the 
steam  from  it  alone  caused  a  painful 
ulceration  of  the  breathing  apparatus  of 
a  lot  of  us  fellows  once  where  we  threw  it 
around  too  carelessly.  The  old-fashioned 
ash-hopper  lye  is  doubtless  as  danger- 
ous if  boiled  down  strong.  It  was  at  the 
Uncomphagre  House,  out  in  the  Rath- 
skeller Range  of  mountains,  Slim  Jim 
Dalton  was  my  second  then.  He  was 
the  most  cleanly  boy  I  ever  knew.  He 
had  just  quit  the  Quaintuple  House  at 
Turtle  Key,  because  he  could  get  noth- 
ing but  sea  water  there  to  scrub  with, 
and  ii  would  not  make  a  lather.  I  doubt 
whether  he  would  have  taken  the  key  as 
a  gift,  or  a  whole  bunch  of  keys  in 
Grouper  Inlet  if  they  were  without  soft 
water  to  make  soap  suds  with.  But  he 
could  never  be  a  good  cook  for  he  seemed 
to  be  devoid  of  the  senses  of  taste  and 
smell.  A  thing  might  be  burmng  up  on 
top  of  the  range  for  an  hour  before  ever 
he  would  find  it  out,  and  then  he  was  in- 
dolent. If  he  scrubbed  the  floor  until  it 
was  as  white  as  a  table-cloth  it  seemed  to 
be  only  that  he  might  have  the  luxury  of 
rolling  down  to  sleep  upon  it  without 
soiling  his  white  shirt,  and  after  draining 
the  steam  chest  dry  he  often  forgot  or 
neglected  to  fill  it  again,  and  the  result 
was  that  the  pipes  which  take  the  water 
down  into  the  tire-backs  often  went  dry 
and  burnt  a  good  way  up,  and  that  makes 
one  of  the  worst  of  smells  and  taints  the 


vegetables  that  are  steamed  over  the  steam 
chest  for  days  afterwards.  Another  thing, 
there  was  no  ice,  and  the  water  the 
pared  potatoes  were  kept  in  would  hardly 
stay  sweet  over  night. 

We  have  to  keep  potatoes  and  other 
vegetables  after  they  have  been  pared 
ready  for  breakfast  covered  with  wat^r, 
otherwise  they  turn  black  and  wilt  in  a 
short  time,  but  it  is  necassary  if  any  are 
left  over  to  put  them  in  fresh  water  and 
let  them  be  the  next  to  be  used.  This 
Slim  would  not  always  do,  and  the  pota- 
toes at  the  bottom  of  the  keg  acquired  a 
bad  smell.  We  had  a  lot  of  awful  par- 
ticular people  in  that  house,  and  one  day 
after  those  bad  potatoes  had  been  steam- 
ed over  that  badly  burned  steam  chest 
some  of  them  made  a  grand  kick  and  the 
proprietor  who  did  not  know  what  was 
the  matter  any  more  than  a  child,  got 
clear  off  his  head  about  the  reputadon  of 
his  house.  I  promised  there  should  be 
no  more  cause  for  complaint  and  Slim 
turned  over  a  new  leaf  with  his  potatoes ; 
threw  away  the  wooden  keg  and  got  two 
stone  jars  and  kept  them  scalded  out. 
But  we  did  not  know  what  to  do  with  the 
steam  chest.  The  foul  smell  was  caused 
by  the  starchy  sediment  that  drips  from 
steaming  vegetables  going  down  into  the 
pipes  and  burning  there  when  the  pipes 
get  dry.  I  suppose  the  only  way 
to  clean  them  was  to  take  them  off,  but 
that  we  could  not  do.  Slim  thought 
concentrated  lye  was  good  for  ever3rthing 
and  put  a  can  m  the  steam  chest  and  let 
it  dissolve.  The  burnt  stuff  was  not  the 
right  sort  for  lye  to  act  upon,  but  it 
seemed  to  eat  away  by  degrees,  so  we 
kept  it  up  for  days  and  weeks,  drawing 
the  lye  water  to  scrub  with  and  putting 
in  fresh  every  morning  and  living  in  the 
steam  from  the  boiling  lye  until  it  had 
nearly  put  the  whole  of  us,  seven  in  all 
who  worked  in  the  kitchen,  past  working 
at  all,  our  lungs  seemed  all  on  fire  and 
we  had  not  the  least  idea  of  what  was 
causing  the  sickness.  The  truth  dawned 
upon  us  at  last,  and  then  I  banished 
concentrated  lye  from  the  place  entirely 
and  drove  a  wooden  plug  into  the  faucet 
so  that  Slim  could  not  drain  the  steam 
chest  dry  any  more.  The  cause  once 
unJerstood  and  removed,  we  soon  re- 
covered from  the  ailment.  But  Slim  was 
all  broke  up.    The  floors  lost  their  white- 


SAN  JiRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


30 


ness.  He  took  to  looking  out  of  the 
windows  and  whistling  10  himself,  and 
soon  left  me,  to  find  some  other  place 
where  the  water  was  all  soft  and  where 
they  made  in  unlimited  abundance  their 
own  soft  soap. 


Five  arrivals  this  evening.  They  have 
come  for  the  season.  They  are  either 
frdta  Paris  or  Peoria,  Pekin  or  Pewaukee 
—it's  a  P,  but  I  did  not  quite  catch  the 
name. 


Goods  arrived  from  Lakeport  at  last. 
Open  them  to-morrow. 


Suppsr. 


Broiled  Mackinaw  trout  (4  "Q^s,  gross  30, 
butter  to  baste  5 — 35  cents.) 

Broiled  tenderlom  steak  (No.  40-7- 
steaks,  i2>.  25  cents.) 

Beefsteak  common  (8  steaks,  iBE).  16, 
butter  gravy  5-21  cents.) 

Eggs  (4  orders,  14  cents.; 

Potatoes  baked  (5  cents.) 

French  rolls  (35  and  loaf  bread,  19 
cents.) 

Rhubarb  sauce  do  cents.) 

Cake,  frosted  (i^  K)s,  18  cents.) 

Butter,  (average  count  15  cents.) 

Milk  and  cream,  (average  count  28 
cents  ^ 

Coffee  and  tea,  (10  cents.) 

Twenty-five -persons;  8  cents  a  plate. 


570— B. oiled  Mackinaw  Trout. 


If  the  fish  is  of  small  size,  split  it  length- 
wise in  halves  and  remove  the  bone 
entirely,  by  cutting  along  both  sides  of  it. 
Dry  the  halves  on  a  clean  kitchen  towel, 
dredge  with  pepper  and  salt,  dip  both 
sides  in  flour,  place  them  in  the  hinged 
wire  broiler  and  cook  over  clear  coals. 
When  partly  cooked,  brush  over  with 
melted  butter  and  keep  it  moist  until  well 
done  through.  To  serve,  turn  out  of  the 
broiler  on  to  a  little  board  on  the  table, 
kept  for  the  purpose  and  divide  each  side 
in  four  by  a  sudden  chop  with  a  large 
sharp  knife.  For  a  plain  family  supper 
like  this,  no  sauce  is  needed,  but  have  tne 
fish  freshly  cooked  and  hot.  May  also 
be  served  like  No.  58. 


Note. — It  is  not  necessary  to  cock 
broiled  fish  entirely  on  the  broiler,  but, 
when  the  place  is  wanted  to  broil  the 
beefsteaks  the  fish  may  be  finished  in  a 
pan  in  the  oven.  Very  large  fishes  are 
sometimes  broiled  whole  ostensibly, when 
they  are  in  reality  baked  except  fcr  suf* 
ficient  broiling  at  first  to  give  them  the 
marks  and  appearance.  A  very  nice^ 
broil  can  also  be  effected  over  the  top  ot 
the  stove,  by  beginning  a  little  earlier. 


Breakfast. 


July  8.  Meats  all  cut  and  laid  ready  in 
a  pan  are  to  be  broiled  as  ordered.  Where 
there  are  so  many  kinds  offered  it  is  suf- 
ficient to  prepare  two  or  three  orders  of 
each. 

Beefsteak  (6,  12  ozs,  net,  and  season- 
nin^^s,  16  cents.) 
Liver  (4  slices,  8  ozs,  7  cents.) 
Bacon  (4  slices,  6  ozs,  net,  6  cents.) 
Ham  (4  slices,  8  ozs,  net,  12  cents.) 
Mutton  chops  (6  lb,  gross,  10  cents.) 
Eggs  (2  dozen,  and  butter  to  fry,  35 
cents.)  • 
Potatoes  baked  and  fried  (8  cents,) 
Rolls  and  bread  (15  cents  ) 
Batter  cakes  (2  qts,  13  cents.) 
Syrup  (of  iy2  lbs,  sugar,  12  cents.) 
Butter  (i  lb,  20  cents.) 
Milk  and  cream  (25  cents.) 
Coffee  and  tea  (10  cents.) 
Total,  $1  89;  25  persons;  ^^^  a  plater 


Dinner. 


Not  having  soup  regularly  as  yet,  for 
no  reason  of  expense  but  because  it  makes 
more  work  waiting  on  table,  washing 
plates,  and  prolongmg  the  meal. 

Boiled  trout  with  butter  sauce  (2  Ibs^ 
gross  and  sauce,  18  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (2  ribs,  4  lbs  50  cents.) 

Boiled  ham  (knuckle  with  2  lbs,  net, 
30  cents.) 

Com  (2  cans,  seasonings,  31  cents.) 

Green  peas  (from  garden,  equal  2  cans,. 
30  cents.) 

Potatoes  (7  cents.) 

Baltimore  butter  pie  (No.  577  increased 
—3  large,  deep,  40  cents.) 

Raisins,  nuts,  cheese,  pickles,  condi- 
ments (average  cost  i  cent  each  person 


37 


COOKING  FOR  PROI^IT, 


all  counted  together,  25  cents.) 

Bread,  butter  (16  cents.; 

Milk,  coffee,  tea  (30  cents. y. 

Total,  $2  77 ;  25  persons ;  over  n  cents 
a  plate. 

571— Boiled  Trout. 


When  we  have  but  a  smalt  amount  of 
iish  Wvi  boil  it,  because  we  find  that  "it 
goes  further"  that  way  than  if  baked  or 
broiled;  whether  the  reason  be  that  it 
shrinks  less  or  that  there  are  fewer  orders 
for  it.  Boiled  fish  ought  not  to  be  con- 
sidered inferior,  for  m  no  other  way  is 
the  peculiar  flavor  of  a  fine  fish  so  well 
preserved.  It  is  always  safe  when  the 
preferences  of  the  people  to  be  served  are 
unknown,  to  boil  a  trout  or  salmon  in 
water  that  is  well  salted  and  without  other 
seasonings.  At  some  other  time  you  can 
try  the  addition  of  an  onion  stuck  with 
four  cloves,  and  half  a  cup  of  vinegar  to 
the  water,  and  perhaps  a  bayleaf  and 
some  parsley,  besides  the  salt.  Use  a 
bright  pan  if  yon  add  vinegar,  or  the  fish 
will  be  dark.  As  our  summer  boarders 
all  come  to  the  table  a  t  the  same  minute 
and  want  to  be  served  instantly,  we  pre- 
pare the  fish  for  dishing  up  by  cutting  it 
m  portions  half  way  through  before  boil- 
ing, being  careful  to  sever  the  bone  at 
each  cut,  which  is  easily  done  with  the 
point  of  a  large  knife.  Then  the  fish 
must  not  boil  too  long,  nor  too  fast ;  have 
the  water  boiling  in  a  deep  boiler,  pan, 
or  something  roomy  enough,  drop  in  the 
fish  and  simmer  not  longer  than  half  an 
hour.  Drain  off  most  of  the  water.  Serve 
on  small  plates  with  the  sauce  at  the  side 
of  the  piece  of  fish. 

572— Taking  Unw.rrantable  Liberties 

Whoever  serves  fish  or  meat  to  a  num- 
ber of  guests  at  a  public  house  of  whose 
tastes  and  preferences  he  can  know  noth- 
ing, takes  unwarrantable  liberties  with 
their  food  if  he  covers  it  with  a  sauce  be- 
fore sending  it  in.  The  sauce  should  be 
placed  under  or  at  the  side  of  the  cut. 
The  salmon  or  the  trout- may  be  fine, 
firm,  flaky,  pink-fleshed,  good  to  look  at, 
and  appetizing,  but  t.ie  sauce  may  be  a 
dull  paste,  perhaps  tasting  of  butter  of  a 
poor  quality ;  or,  if  of  the  very  best  quality 


when  first  made  it  may  have  become  thick 
and  stringy  with  waitmg,  or,  it  m^y  be  a 
caper  sauce,  which  the  person  does  not 
like,  or  eggs,  or  tomato,  or  anchovy  which 
many  detest — why  should  the  fish  or  meat 
be  deluged  with  these  peculiar  flavors 
whether  the  recipient  wishes  it  or  not  ? 
There  is  an  answer — it  is  because  that  it  is 
the  custom  of  French  cooks  and  so  the 
directions  read.      But  it  never  was  in- 
tended for  general  application.    One  day 
I  happened  to  be  at  the  Lookover-the- 
Mountain   House  (by-the-Sea)  when    a 
large  number  of  prominent  townspeople 
were  taking  dinner  there  for  some  com- 
plimentary purpose  concerning  the  ex- 
cellence of  the  table,  and  the  cook  served 
the  fish  with  wine  sauce.     The  fish  was 
of  the  finest ;  probably  it  was  well  cooked ; 
:  but  whether  it  was  the  wrong  wine  or  no 
!  wine  at  aU,  but  a  substitute,  the  sauce 
'  was  sweet ;  it  could  hardly  have  been 
sweeter  if  it  had  been  molasses ;  it  had 
the  Parisienne  potatoes  in  it  saturated  and 
dingy,  and  each  portion  of  fish   served 
was  buried  out  of  sight  under  a  large 
six)onful  of  the  mess.    There  are  plenty 
of  reasons  why  sauces  may  be  bad  in  spite 
ot  skill  and  good  intentions,  but  they  are 
of  small  consequence  in  the  houses  where 
they  are  but  poured  at  the  side  and  not 
over  the  cut  of  meat  or  fish,  because  then 
a  free  choice  is  left  to  either  take  or  leave, 
and  the  cook's  sauce  is  placed  upon  its 
own  merits. 


573— Butter  Sauce— Rest. 


2  cups  clear  strained  broth  or  water. 

%  pound  butter  or  more. 

2  heaping  tablespoons  flour. 

Salt,  if  not  enough  in  the  butter. 

Take  half  the  butter  and  all  the  flonj 
and  stir  them  together  in  a  saucepan  over 
the  fire.  When  well  mingled  and  bub- 
bluig  from  the  bottom  add  the  boiling 
water  or  broth  a  littb  at  a  time,  stirring 
till  all  is  in  and  the  sauce  has  cooked 
thick  and  smooth.  Take  it  from  the  fire 
and  beat  in  the  other  half  the  butter  a 
portion  at  a  time  and  do  not  let  it  boil 
again.  It  looks  glossy  and  smooth  as  soft 
butter ;  may  need  thinning  down  for  some 
purposes,  as  for  parsley  sauce,  etc. 

The  above  makes  over  a  pint  of  sauce ; 
the  cost  is  whatever  the  price  of  the  but- 
ter used  may  bt. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


JS 


574— Cheap  Butter  Sauce  Substitute. 


when  we  count  up  the  sum  -total  at  the 
end  of  the  book,' 


2  cups  clear  strained  broth  or  water: 

Flour  and  water  thickening. 

I  ounce  butter  (guinea  egg  size^) 

Salt. 

Thicken  the  broth  or  water  by  stirring 
in  the  mixed  flour  and  water.  Take  it 
from  the  fire  and  beat  in  the  lump  of  but- 
ter imtii  it  is  melted.  Do  not  boil  after 
the  butter  is  in., 


575— Family  Roast  Beef. 


Each  of  beef  weighs  on  an  average 
2  pounds  "hen  it  has  been  shortened  and 
tnmmed  ready  for  roasting.  Our  2-rib 
roast  weighs  4  pounds  and  takes  an  hour 
to  cook  well  done.  Roasted  meat  is  at 
its  best  when  it  is  but  just  done,  when 
the  gravy  flows  freely,  as  soon  as  it  is  cut. 
I  make  it  an  invariable  practice  to  hold 
back  the  roasting  until  the  last ;  a  cut  that 
will  take  2  hours  goes  in  just  2  hours  be- 
fore dinner  time,  and  if  tnere  is  no  gravy 
on  hand  and  the  pan  is  required  to  make 
some,  change  the  meat  into  another  pan 
15  minutes  before  dishing  up — which  gives 
time  for  the  gravy  making. 

Some  comical  wordy  encounters  take 
place  at  times  through  the  difference  of 
menus  of  quantity  between    hotel  and 

Erivate  house  people.  "Four  pounds  of 
eef  for  twenty-five  people's  dinner!" 
says  one,  "why,  that  would  not  be  more 
than  enough  for  my  family  at  home." 
"Two  pounds  of  meat  to  make  an  entree 
for  a  dinner  for  fifty  \"  exclaims  another — 
"and  even  when  it  is  chicken  meat  nicely 
fixed  up,  still  only  two  pounds  I  Nonsense, 
you  can't  tell  me,  I  know  that  one  hungry 
man  could  eat  up  the  whole  business." 

At  the  same  time  Mrs.  Tingee,  who 
knows  far  more  about  saving  than  ever  I 
can  tell  her  would  think  we  were  giving 
ruinously  large  rations  if  she  could  see. 
It  is  a  curious  study,  this  bill  of  fare 
plan  with  its  small  amount  of  each  of 
many  viands,  I  have  not  time  to  at- 
tempt to  explain  how  it  is  that  the  one 
hungry  man  does  not  eat  up  the  whole 
business,  nor  a  dozen  hungry  men  either. 
These  little  bills  of  fare  are  truthful 
records  of  stubborn  facts  and  they  may 
explain  it  all.  If  not,  we  shall  find  out 
how  well  fed  all  these  people  have  been 


576— Brown  Pan  Gravy  or  Espagnote. 


The  brown  sauce  which  in  systematic 
cooking  we  find  so  useful,  so  indispensa- 
ble, even,  is  not  much  unlike  the  frying- 
pan  gravy  that  Mary  Jane  makes  very 
nicely,  sometimes,  by  taking  out  the  fried 
pork,  sausage  or  chicken  and  pouring  in 
water  or  milk  and  thickening  it  when  it 
boils,  but  we  are  strictly  careful  to  get  rid 
of  all  the  grease.  We  think  over  the  matter 
an  hour  or  two  ahead  of  the  time  for 
making  gravy  to  see  what  can  be  put  in  the 
pan  to  make  it  richer  and  to  improve  the 
color,  and  we  make  it  in  the  roast  meat 
pans,  and  generally  in  the  oven.^  The 
material  for  making  the  gravy  is  the 
essence  of  beef  or  other  meat  that  escapes 
from  the  meat  in  roasting,  as  already 
mentioned  at  Nos.  170,  185,  171, 144  and 
other  places,  and  settles  at  the  bottom  of 
the  pan,  and  of  course  the  more  meat  the 
better  the  gravy  \yiir  be.  It  is  well 
enough,  but  not  strictly  necessary  to  put 
a  piece  of  turnip,  carrot  and  celery  in  the 
pan  along  with  any  rough  pieces  of  meat 
besides  the  roast,  and  there  must  be  some 
salt  put  in  at  the  beginning.  All  the  time 
the  meat  is  roasting  there  is  more  or  less 
water  in  the  pan  andthe  grease  and  gravy 
are  mixed  together,  but  when  the  meat  is 
taken  out  the  pan  dries  down,  the  essence 
sticks  on  the  bottom  and  turns  brown 
like  the  outside  of  roast  meat  and  the  hot 
grease  above  it  is  as  clear  as  water  and 
can  be  poured  ofl'into  ajar  to  be  used  for 
frying  and  other  purposes.  That  being 
done  put  into  the  pan  a  quart,  more  or 
less  01  water  or  soup  stock,  let  it  boil  up 
and  dissolve  the  brown  glaze,  then  add 
flour  thickening  a  little  at  a  time,  making 
it  as  thick  as  cream,  let  boil  and  strain  it 
into  a  saucepan.  It  is  then  ready  for  use ; 
but  if  allowed  to  simmer  at  the  side  of 
the  range,  it  will  throw  up  scum  and 
grease  which  must  be  skimmed  off,  and 
the  sauce  becomes  bright  and  is  much 
improved. 

577— Baltimore  Butter  Pie  or  Custard 
Without  Eggs. 

Having  no  eggs  left   after    breakfast, 


S9 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


made  a  kind  of  pie  that  serves  in  place 
of  pudding  and  needs  none. 

At  the  Kissimmeequick  Hotel— a  noted 
resort  on  the-Kissimmee  River— they  have 
one  of  those  little  customs  with  which  no 
fault  can  be  found  of  keeping  a  standing 
favorite  dish  always  on  the  Dill  of  fare, 
and  there  it  is  custard  pie,  regularly, 
there  being  another  kind  of  pie  and  the 
pudding  and  cream  to  make  the  changes 
on.  But  there  ihe  supplies  are  by  no 
means  regular  in  arriving,  and  when  they 
have  no  eggs  they  make  custard  this  way : 

4  cups  milk — a  quart. 

I  small  cup  butter— 6  ounces. 

i^  cups  sugar — 12  ounces 

I  level  cup  tiour — 4  ounces. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  bntter  in  it  and 
a  spoonful  of  the  sugar  to  prevent  burn- 
ing. Mix  the  Hour  and  sugar  together 
dry,  stir  them  into  the  boiling  milk  quickly 
with  a  wire  egg  beater,  like  making  mush 
and  take  from  the  tire  as  soon  as  it  begins 
to  thicken.  It  will  finish  cooking  in  the 
pies.  Line  2  deep  custard  pie  plates  with 
crust  rolled  very  thin  and  pour  the 
whcle  3  pints  of  mixture  into  them — if 
you  have  people  enough  to  eat  so  much, 
if  not.  of  course  the  receipt  can  be 
divided.  The  butter  is  the  only  flavoring 
needed  in  this  mixture  and  must  be  good. 
Bake  m  a  slack  oven  until  the  filling  be- 
gins to  rise  in  the  middle.  It  will  rise 
and  flow  over  the  edge  if  baked  too  long. 
Cost  of  mbcture  here  17  cents  and  crusts 
of  rich  paste  10  cents  for  two.  Cut  each 
pie  in  eight — they  are  deep  enough  for 
that.  Can  be  made  richer  yet  with  cream. 


supper. 


578— Molasses   Fruit   Cake,    Cheap. 


3  cups  raisins — a  pound. 

4  cups  currants — a  pound. 

I  small  cup  sugar— ^  ounces. 
Same  of  butter. 

1  large  cup  molasses — 12  ounces. 

2  eggs. 

I  cup  sour  milk  and  teasp9on  soda— or 
else  use  sweet  milk  and  baking  powder. 

6  cups  flour— I  ^  pounds. 

Spices  if  desired. 

Prepare  the  raisins  and  currants  and 
dust  them  with  flour.  Mix  all  the  rest 
together  and  beat  well,  then  aad  the  fruit. 
May  be  baked  in  a  shallow  pan  to  cutout 
squares  warm  or  in  deep  mold.  Makes 
about  5  pounds,  costing  45  cents,  or  9 
cents  a  pound. 

I  Divide  before  baking  and  you  can  have 
one  cake  and  the  other  half  steamed 
to-morrow  for  pudding. 


Beefsteak  do  orders,  20  ozs,  25  cents.) 
Mutton  chops  (9  ord-^rs,240zs,2o  ce  nts.) 
Cold  boiled  ham  (8  ozs,  10  cents.) 
Potatoes  (5  cents.) 
French  rolls  (35,  14  cents.) 
Baiter  cakes  (  2  qU,  14  cents.) 
Syrup  [12  cents.] 

Blueberries  [2  cans,and  sugar,33  cents.] 
Molasses  fruit  cake  [No.  578,  i^  lbs, 

15  cents.] 

Butter  15,  milk,  cream  25  cofifee,  tea  8. 
lotal,  $1  96;  25  persons,  nearly  8  cents 

a  plate. 


There  is  music  on  the  water  to-night — 
serenading  party  in  boats — fifteen  young 
ladies  have  come  to  the  Trulirural  House 
to  board  for  a  week  or  two — glee  club  or 
seminary  class  or  something  of  the  sort 
from  Basswood  City,  and  they  are  down 
at  our  boat  landing  singing.  Proprietor 
of  the  Trulirural  has  instigated  them  to 
that — knows  that  our  side  cannot  muster 
even  a  parlor  quartette.  If  Mr.  Farewell 
would  put  his  hired  girls  in  a  boat  and 
tell  them  to  sing  their  loudest  that  party 
would  soon  be  put  to  fleht.  I  suppose  that 
would  not  do — it  would  make  what  they 
call  a  scandal,  and,  instead,  the  manager, 
the  housekeeper  and  'bus  driver  are  hang- 
ing the  trees  lull  of  Chinese  lanterns,  and 
the  boat  boy  with  the  big  hat,  is  getting 
out  some  fire-works. 

"For  it  makes  the  heart  so  gay^ 
To  hear  the  sweet  birds  singmg 

On  their  summer  hol-i-day." 

It  does  put  new  life  into  a  fellow  who 
is  weary  of  his  ill  success  when  duck 
hunting  to  see  the  game  come  circling 
around  at  last. 


579— Mrs.  Tingee's  Custard  Pie. 


The  glory  of  the  custard  pie,  is  in  the 
depth  or  thickness  of  it.  The  distance 
should  be  great  between  the  glossy  surfece 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


40 


wravering  between  orange,  yelbw  and 
brown  and  the  substratum,wafer-like  in  its 
thinness,  of  paste.  The  custard  pie,  then 
demands  a  pie  pan  of  an  uncommon 
depth  and  spaciousness,  with  a  capacity 
not  frittered  away  in  broad  and  spreading 
edges  but,  rather,  with  boundaries  of  an 
upright  character  and  quite  ur.9btnisive, 
the  necessary  wall  of  crust  being  of  no 
great  moment,  so  that  it  be  respectably 
short  as  all  about  a  custard  pie  that  is 
worthy  of  consideration  relates  only  to 
the  iiliing.  Taking  this  view  of  the  cus- 
tard pie,  which  I  believe  is  the  popular 
one.  I  have  been  troubled  about  pie 
pans.  We  have  none  at  this  place  but 
such  as  are  shallow,  almest  flat,  nothing 
that  is  a  cross  between  pie  plate  and  pud- 
ding pan,  which  is  what  the  exigency  de- 
man(£.  Thinking  to  get  out  of  the  dilem- 
ma easily  enough  I  went  over  to  the 
country  store  and  explained  the  matter  to 
the  merchant,  who  would  not  even  stop 
for  me  to  finish  before  he  went  off  nod- 
ding and  smiling,  saying  he  had  just  what 
I  wanted,  some  pie  plates  that  were  deep 
and  some  that  were  deeper.  There  never 
was  a  man  more  mistaken  in  the  use  of- 
words.  All  he  really  had  was  some  that 
were  shallow  and  some  others  that  were 
shallower,  and  I  spent  some  time  trying  to 
prove  it  to  him,  but  as  he  was  German  it 
seemed  without  much  success.  Then  I 
had  to  come  home,  take  a  hammer  and 
beat  the  broad,  flat,  edges  of  the  pie 
plates  we  have  into  a  comparative  per- 
pendicularity. They  look  bad  but,  "what 
can't  be  cured  must  be  endured," — ^as  the 
sailor  said  when  he  bade  his  sweetheart, 
good  bye — "so  farewell,  Susan,"  etc. 

The  very  last  time  I  had  a  talk  with 
Mrs.  Tingee — we  are  opposite  neighbor's 
and  it  is  common  for  me  to  bCcp  m  of  a 
morning — ^just  as  I  was  as  i  thought  well 
out  of  the  nouse  she  stopped  me  on  the 
steps  with  the  usual,  "Oh,  tell  me  some- 
thing, now,  what  can  I  have  for  dinner?', 
"Why;  Mrs.  Tingee,why  don't  you  give 
your  boarders  some  roast  iamb?  There 
is  nothing  better ;  and  as  for  the  price  it 
is  really  no  dearer  now  than  mutton  or 
the  other  meat  you  buy."  But,  wouldn't 
they  eat — "  Whatever  she  may  have  in- 
tended to  say,  she  did  not  finish  the 
sentence  but  stopped  for  a  moment  and 
then  resumed : 

"No ;  it  is  not  much  trouble  about  the 
meat  part,  but  it  is  the  something  to  come 


after.  I  ought  to  make  them  something. 
Day  before  yesterday  I  gave  them  pud- 
ding; yesterday  we  had  nothing  and  it 
seems  as  though  I  ought  to  have  some- 
thing to-day,  and  it  ought  to  be  pie  and, 
oh,  I  do  dread  to  make  pie,  so!' 

I  could  plainly  see  a  shiver  ran  all 
through  the  poor  lady  as  she  said  this; 
probably  she  was  thinking  of  lard  and  the 
outlay  involved  in  its  use. 

"Why  not  make  a  custard  pie,"  I  said, 
"it  does  not  require  much  pie  paste.' 
"I  should  want  some  eggs,    shouldn"t 
I?"  she  asked  dubiouslv.  ^ 
"Yes;  perhaps  four.' 
"Couldn't  you  make  it  with  two,  if  it 
was  you?" 

"How  can  I  tell  when  I  don't  know 
how  much  or  how  many  you  are  going  to 
make." ' 

She  gazed  away  ofif  into  space  for  a 
while.  There  was  a  mighty  argument  for 
and  against  pie  going  on  in  her  mind. 
Then  coming  close  and  looking  around 
to  see  that  there  were  no  listeners,  she  said 
in  a  low  tone : 

"I  would  not  say  it  to  anybody  but 
you,  but  I  have  one  boarder,  a  young 
man,  that  actually  sometimes  eats  four 
pieces  of  pie?" 

So  that's  what  made  this  poor  woman 
shiver.  Not  the  bare  reflection  upon  the 
expensiveness  of  lard,  but  the  dread  of 
this  young  man's  calling  heartlessly  one, 
two,  three,  four  times  for  pie ;  having  her 
in  his  power;  knowing  she  dared  not  say 
no,  or,  "it  is  all  out,"  while  the  other 
boarders  were,  yet  to  be  served  and  would 
presently  be,  right  before  his  eyes.  I 
think  if  he  had  been  in  my  place  and  real- 
ized what  depths  of  doubt  and  fear  this 
likelihood  of  his  wanting  four  pieces  had 
opened  before  her  he  would  have  swon* 
oil  from  ever  going  beyond  the  second 
order.  However,  there  are  extenuating 
circumstances  to  be  mentioned  in  his 
favor. 

We  fellows  who  make  our  custard  pies 

in  all  that  swaggering,  arrogant  feeling  of, 

boundless  wealth  that  is  bom  of  having 

a  plethroic  store-room  and  whole  barrels 

full  of   "stuff'   to   use   out   of  would 

feel  more  like  pitying  than   blaming  the 

young  man  who  would  essay  to  movt 

around  after  a  four-piece  in-vesi-v^^nl  of 

I  our  pies,  however  good  and  wholesome, 

t  fjr,  as  we  fill  each  one  to  the  brim  wica« 

i  a  1  int  of  milk,  four  eggs  and  four  ounces 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


of  sugar  and  the  crust  weighs  at  least 
four  ounces  more  it  is  within  an  ounce  or 
two  of  being  two  pounds  weight  for  each 
custard  pie,  and  though  we  cut  it  in  the 
smallest  pieces,  that  is  m  eight,  the  young 
man  who  would  eat  four  would  almost 
surely  feel  such  discomfort  that  a  pound 
of  pie  at  once  would  bring  its  own  punish- 
ment ;  and  I  understood  Mrs.  Tingee  to 
say  that  she  cut  her's  in  only  six — so  much 
the  worse  for  the  young  man.  However, 
in  this  case  I  tried  to  sympa^-hise  with 
Mrs.  Tingee  and  offered  her  the  poor 
comfort  of  saying  that  everything  costs 
and  it  might  as  well  be  custard  pie  as 
something  else ;  with  which  she  cautiously 
agreed. 

"But  won't  it  take  milk?  she  asked." 
"Yes,  of  course." 
"How  much,  do  you  think?,* 
Now  I  verily  believe  she  was  thinking  j 
spoonfuls  while  I  was  thinking  guarts, 
but  not  wishing  to  alarm  her,  I  said : 
"Oh,  about  a  pint."  . 

"But  that's  for  tea,"  she  rephed. 
"Maam?" 
"That's  for  tea." 
"What,  the  pie?" 
"No,  the  milk." 

"Oh!  yes,  I  understand,"  and  did  be- 
gin to  apprehend  her  meaning.  That  is 
just  like  a  woman.  I  was  thinking  of  a 
pint  of  milk — any  pint  of  milk — from 
anywhere  in  the  world  so  that  we jzot  it; 
she  was  thinking  of  the  pint  of  milk,  the 
one  pint  of  milkm  her  cupboard  set  there 
to  be  used  for  the  tea  at  the  evening  meal 
and,  to  her  the  only  pint  of  milk  m  the 
universe. 

"Well,  then,"  I  said,  "you  need  not 
use  that ;  you  can  make  just  as  good  a 
custard  with  water." 

"Is  that  so?"  she  said,  brightening  up, 
**have  you  ever  made  custard  with 
water?"  I  nodded  an  affirmative. 

"What  ever  made  you  think  of  trying 
that?" 

"It  tried  itself,  as  it  were.  You  see 
when  at  the  Cloverdale  Hotel  and  cot- 
tages in  the  early  part  of  the  season  we 
had  more  milk  than  we  could  possibly 
use  we  made  custard  pie  with  cream,  and 
of  course  it  was  good.  As  the  season 
advanced  and  the  crowd  increased  we 
got  down  to  skimmed  milk  and  to  milk 
muted  with  water,  and  still  the  custard 
pies  were  apparently  as  good  as  before; 


so  when  it  happened,  as  it  will  in  every 
place  sometimes,  that  there  was  no  milfe 
at  all  it  was  but  an  easy  step  further  to 
make  the  custard  pies  with  water  alone 
and  not  care  whether  the  cows  come 
home  or  not." 

"And  they  were  every  bit  as  good?" 

"Yes,  ma  am — apparently." 

"Did  you  ever  hear  of  anybody  using 
flour  or  starch  or  anythmg  to  save  eggs?" 

"Oh,  yes;  there  is  a  rule  for  that.  If 
you  have  need  of  four  eggs  you  can  mix 
up  some  flour  and  water  to  the  consist- 
ency of  thick  cream  and  each  cooking- 
spoonful  of  that  is  equal  to  one  egg,  for 
thickening  purposes,  but  it  will  be  white." 

"But  ifi  use  three  of  that  and  one  egg 
it  will  look  yellow.  Well,  I  must  get  to 
doing  something,  for  the  morning  is  half 
gone." 

So  then  I  was  released,  but  only  for 
a  short  time,  for  after  dinner  Mrs.  Tingee 
made  me  cross  the  street  again. 

"I  want  you  to  come  and  try  my  cus- 
tard pie,"  said  she. 

"No,  thank  you — I  have  had  dinner." 

"But  you  must — tell  me  whether  I  did 
right  or  wrong  and  what  you  think  of  it." 

But  the  pie  she  set  before  me  was  none 
of  mine.  I  disclaim  having  anything  to 
do  with  it.  ^  My  custard  pies  are  big  and 
fat — three  big  cups  of  custard  in  each  one, 
and  there  is  room  to  dive  down  deep  in 
them;  but  this!  Oh,  Mrs.  Tingee  how 
could  you!  It  is  only  the  ghost^  the 
shadow,  the  skeleton  of  a  custard  pie.  I 
hope  she  will  not  ever  ask  me  any  more 
questions.  Sometimes  I  feel  like  pitying 
her,  but  am  always  sure  to  be  taken  aback 
by  some  such  exhibition  of  the  preternat- 
ural sharpness  she  has  acquired  in  the 
long  battle  ot  three-and-a-half-a-week. 
In  this  case — to  borrow  a  simile  from 
minister  Schenck's  book  on  poker— she 
has  seen  the  hand  I  held  and  gone  me 
one,  ten,  aye  a  hundred  better.  One  of  us 
two  has  been  "sold"  and  it  wasn't  Mrs. 
T.  Her  custard  pie  is  primped  and 
crimped  arpund  the  edges,  but  there  is 
nothmg  of  it.  It  consists  of  a  sheet  of 
bottom  crust  about  as  thin  as  paper,  with 
a  yellow  laver  of  custard  about  as  deep  as 
a  sheet  of  Slotting  paper  upon  it.  Why, 
three  cups  of  custard  would  cover  "wilds 
immeasurably  spread"  of  paste  of  such  a 
depth  as  that.  With  a  quart  of  such  cus- 
tard made  with  no  milk  but  one  egg  she 


SAN  JBRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


4^ 


could  fill  pies  enough  to  stock  up  a 
bakery.  I  am  afraid  of  her.  As  for  the 
young  man  who,  sometimes  eats  four 
pieces  I  may  envy  him  his  vigorous  ap- 
petite, but  1  utterly  despise  him  for  his 
want  of  taste.  Let  him  go  without  a 
lecture.  Mrs.  Tingee  is  able  to  cope  with 
him  alone.  In  some  way  or  other  he  gets 
his  full  punishment,  never  doubt  it. 


Breakfast. 


Lam  and  eggs  (7  orders,  12  ozs,  ham, 

net,  15 ;  e;^gs  18,  33  cents.) 
Beetsteak  (8  orders,  i  lb,  net,  20  cents.) 
Mutton  chops  (8  orders,  12  cents.) 
Stewed  kidneys  (5^  lb,  6  cents.) 
Potatoes  baked  and  fried,  (5  cents.) 
Wheat  muffins  (No.  102  doubled,  14 

cents.) 
Batter  cakes  (2  qts,  12  cents.) 
Milk  and  cream  (aveiage  count,  25 

cents.) 
Butter  15,  syrup  and  sugar  16,  tea  and 

cofiee  6. 
Total,  $1  64;  25  persons;  about  6J^ 

cents  a  plate. 


580— Ham  and  Eggs,  Hotel  Style. 

The  large  dish  of  ham  and  eggs  served 
at  some  restaurants  as  described  at  No. 
76  as  costing  25  cents  is  not  the  best  dish 
of  the  kind  that  can  be  served.  It  is 
quantity  in  that  case  rather  than  quality. 

Take  the  best  pieces  of  ham,  the  right- 
hand  cut  shown  at  No.  552,  shave  off  the 
outside,  cut  slices  very  thin  the  full  size 
of  the  piece — they  scarcely  ever  weigh  so 
much  as  two  ounces — and  broil  over 
a  brisk  fire.  Lay  on  a  good  sized  platter 
up  towards  one  end  and  two  fried  eggs 
partly  upon  tti  ham  and  partly  on  the 
dish,  if  at  18  cents  a  dozen  two  eggs 
cost  ihrse  cents,  and  two  ounces  uf  choice 
cut  of  nam  worth  24  cents  a  pound  net 
costs  3  cents  each  dish  served  counts  six 
cents  for  material. 

581— Stewed   Kidneys,   or  Saute   of 
Kidneys. 


stewed,  but  we  have  to  call  them  so, 
because  of  the  dazed  looks  we  meet  if  we 
used  any  harder  words. 

Slice  the  three  or  four  landneys  that 
have  been  taken  from  the  different  meats 
and  steep  a  short  time  in  cold  water.  Put 
them  in  a  frying  pan  with  a  little  butter, 
dredge  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  simmer 
slowly  over  the  fire  shaking  the  pan  ocr 
casionally.  There  will  be  a  rich  gravy  in 
the  pan  in  a  few  minutes  in  which  the 
kidneys  become  well  cooked  and  remain 
tender,  but  if  not  watched   the    gravy 

Presently  coagulates  and  the  kidneys  are 
ard  and  tasteless.  The  cooking  should 
take  place  only  a  short  time  before  the 
meal  begins.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of 
walnut  catsup  to  the  gravy  before  serving. 

582— MufTins  in  Haste. 


There  are  no  better  mufi^s  than  the  kind 
made  according  to  the  directions  at  Nos. 
102  and  103,  but  in  summer  weather  and 
with  compressed  yeast  they  can  be  made 
of  fine  quality  in  a  still  shorter  time  with 
only  one  rising.  Breakfast  beginning  at 
half  past  seven,  I  mix  up  the  muffins  at 
six.  Take  a  piece  of  the  light  dough  that 
was  set  over-night  for  rolls  or  bread,  put 
it  in  a  pan,  add  four  yolks,  six  table- 
spoons melted  butter,  same  of  warm  milk 
and  one  tablespoon  sugar  and  pinch  of 
salt.  Hold  the  pan  over  the  stove  to 
warm  the  ingredients  while  you  thoroughly 
mix  and  beat  them  together.  Drop  into 
greased  gem  pans,  set  m  a  warm  place  to 
rise  about  an  hour,  then  bake. 

Dinner. 


Kidneys  cooked  this  way  are  not  really 


Soup — puree  of  tomatoes  with  duchess 
crusts  (5  qts,  25  cents.) 

Boiled  ham  (knuckle,  2  lbs,  20  cents.) 

Roast  beef  ( I  rib  and  cap  or  shoulder 
cut,  4  lbs,  gross,  50  cents.) 

Mutton  lie  (i  lb,  meat  8,  i  lb,  paste  7, 
15  cents.) 

Macaroni  and  cheese  (No,  584,  12 
orders,  12  cents.) 

Mashed  potatoes,  (7  cents.) 

String  beans  (2  eans,seasoned,28  cents.) 

Steamed  fruit  pudding  (2  lbs,  20  and 
sauce  5,  25  cents.) 

Rhubarb  pie  (2  large,  rolled  thin,  i^ 
cento.) 


43 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


Cheese,  raisins,  pickles,  crackers,  con 
diments  (average  count,  25  cents.) 
Butter  (average,  15  cents.) 
Milk,  cream,  coffee,  tea  (36  cents.) 
Total,  $2  71;  25  persons;  nearly  ni 
cents  a  plate. 

583~Puree  of  Tomatoes  Soup; 


spoon — better  than  stirring  around. 

There  will  be  five  or  six  quarts.  Set  it 
on  the  back  part  of  the  stove  and  as  it 
slowly  boils  up  at  one  side  all  the  grease 
that  is  in  it  will  collect  on  the  sur&ce  at 
the  other  and  must  be  skimmed  off. 
Serve  with  a  few  duchess  crusts,  not  put 
in  the  soup  previously,  but  droype^in  th^ 
plates  as  they  are  taken  in.. 


A  -ptiree  is  a  paste  or  pulp  like  mashed 
potatoes  and  a  puree  soup  is  one  thickened 
by  having  a  puree  of  vegetables  or  per- 
haps of  fowl  or  game  stirred  into  it;  a 
plain  tomato  soup  may  be  thin  and  clear 
enough  to  show  up  green  peas,  rice  or 
other  additions,  but  a  puree  soup  is  thick, 
more  like  tomato  sauce.  These  explan- 
ations will  do  to  refer  to  again. 

The  butcher  over  at  "the  Glen"  would 
sell  us  a  beef  shank  for  12  or  15  cents, 
but  as  that  is  a  distance  of  four  miles  we 
must  either  say,  "can't  make  soup,"  or 
do  this  way.  Take  the  bone  of  the  short 
loin  of  beef,  (all  the  meat  for  steaks  hav- 
ing been  cut  off  raw,)  the  piece  of  shoulder 
off  ttie  rib  loast,  bone  out  of  the  veal, 
shanks  of  mutton,  small  piece  of  ham,  all 
raw.  Wash  in  cold  water,  and  reject 
every  piece  that  has  become  stale  and 
dark  through  exposure  to  the  air.  Put 
them  into  a  large  pot  with  two  gallons  of 
cold  water  and  set  on  to  boil  between  8 
and  9  o'clock  in  the  morning.  Skim 
when  it  begins  to  boil.  These  bones  we 
will  count  worth  10  cents. 

The  flavors  which  "go  well"  with 
tomatoes  are  onions,  ham,  garlic,  cloves, 
green  and  red  peppers,  allspice,  clams, 
lamb,  walnut  catsup,  anchovies.  Not  to 
be  used  all  at  once. 

Into  the  soup  pot  you  had  better  put 
one  onion,  six  cloves,  piece  of  turnip  and 
carrot  and  a  three  pound  can  of  tomatoes 
(15  cents)  or  fresh  tomatoes  to  that  amount 
and  let  boil  with  the  meat  and  bones  until 
near  dinner  time,  them  add  flour-and- 
water  thickening  a  spoonful  at  a  time  un- 
til it  seems  thick  enough,  and  season  with 
salt  and  cayenne.  The  soup  is  then 
ready  to  be  strained  and  freed  from 
grease.  Take  a  clean  soup  pot  and  set 
a  strainer  over  it.  A  colander-shaped 
stramer  at  least  as  fine  as  a  flour  seive 
should  be  used,  or  one  of  perforated  tin, 
finer  still.  You  can  hurry  the  soup  and 
all  such  mixtures  through  by  rapidly 
striking  the  strainer  ed^e  with  an  iron 


584 — Duchess  and  Conde  Crusted  -or 
Croutons. 


Thfese  are  the  names  given  6y  the 
French  to  what  English  cooks  call  "sip- 
pets of  fried  bread."  Cut  bread  in  thm 
slices  without  crust,  then  in  dice  no  larger 
than  navy  beans.  If  you  diop  them  for 
a  few  seconds,  into  hot  clarified  butter, 
j  oil  or  lard  and  fry  them  light  brown  they 
are  duchess  crusts,  if,  instead,  you  put 
them  in  a  pan  in  the  oven  and  bake  them 
brown  like  toast  they  are  conde  crusts. 
They  are  to  eat  in  soup  instead  of  crackers. 


585— Macaroni  and  Cheese^Ordinary; 


This  makes  12  orders  at  a  cost  of  one 
cent  each. 

^  pound  macaroni* 

2  ounces  cheese— a  smalT  cup  grated  or 
minced. 

2  ounces  butter-— size  of  an  egg-*, 

I  cup  milk. 

I  spoonful  flour  thickening., 

I  egg,  salt,  cracker  crumbs. 

Set  on  a  saucepan  of  water  and  wheirit 
boils  put  in  the  macaroni  broken  in  pieces. 
Cook  20  minutes  then  drain  in  a  colander. 
Get  a  panpr  deep  dish  that  holds  about 
three  pints,  butter  it,  put  in  the  maca- 
roni, the  cheese  minced  fine  and  butter 
in  small  bits,  mix  them  with  a  fork. 

Break  the  egg  in  a  bowl,  add  a  cook- 
ing-spoonful of  flour  thickening  and  beat 
while  pouring  in  the  milk,  add  it  to  the 
macaroni,  dredge  cracker  meal  over  the 
surface  and  bake  until  the  liquid  is  set 
and  surface  brown. 

There  should  be  a  little  mixed  flour  and 
thickening,  about  as  thick  as  cream  al- 
ways at  hand  when  cooking  is  going  on. 
The  use  of  a  spoonful  saves  an  egg  in  this 
dish  and  is  better,  but  do  not  use  enough 
to  make  the  macaroni  solid  and  dry.    For 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


44 


a  high-flavored  dish  of  macaroni,  see  No. 
I54>  which  is  macarQnkmi9»i,^;^z^,  like 
Weii^  ]:arebit. 

5,8G-Cheapr  Steamed^  FnfitLPlQddin^. 


Take  the  molasses  fruit?  ckEl^mixttirer, 
No.  578.  Put  it  in  a  cake  mould  and  steam 
from  one  to  two  hours.  The  color  both  of 

gudding  and  cake  will  be  from  yellow  to 
lack  according  to  the  kind  of  syrup  or 
molasses  used.   Servejwith^  sauce  j,  Nos. 

iSuppefg 


Oatta^al  mush,  (3  centsij        

Beefsteak  (8  orders,  i  lb,  ii5f|2!Teats.J 

Cold  beef  and  ham  (from  dinner.) 

Potatoes,  (enough  lett  from  dinner.) 

Biscuics  (2  doz,  15  cents.) 

Fresh  wild  raspberreis  (2  qts,  30  cents.) 

Cookies  (3  doz,  12  cents.) 

Batter  cakes  and  syrup,  (14  cents,) 

Butter  15,  milk  and  creami'so,  coffee, 

tea  10. 
Total,  $1.49;  25  persoiis>  6^  cents  a 

plate. 


587— Cookies— Gooff  Comfflor^ 

it  cups  sugar— a  pouncf^ 

1  cup  butter—^  pouncn 

5  or  6  eg^s. 

I  cup  muk  or  water— ^  piHft 

4  teaspoons  baking  powaen 

8  cups  flour — 2  pounds. 

Soften  the  butter  and  stir  i!  afidi  the 
sugar  together,  add  eggs,  milk,  beat  well. 
Mix  the  powder  in  the  flour;  mix  all  to  a 
soft  dough.  Press  it  together  on  the 
table,  roll  out  thin,  sift  granulated  sugar 
all  over  and  cut  out  the  cakes.  The  softer 
the  dough  can  be  worked  the  better  the 
cakes  will  be.  Makes  9  dozen,  cost  36 
cents,  4  or  s  cents  a  dozen;  o?  twice  as 
many  li  rolled  extremely  thiiH 


wheat,  4  cents.) 

Beefsteak  (7  orders,  i  lb,  -20  cents.) 

Ham  and  Dreakfast  bacon  (6  orders, 
15  cents.) 

Buttered  eges  (No.  558,  18  eggs  and 
butter,  25  cents.) 

German  fried  potatoes  (No.  511,  20 
potatoes,  6  cents.) 

Corn  muffins  (No.  286,  with  2  cups 
meal,  etc.,  20,  12  cents.) 

Graham  batter  cakes  (with  sour  milk, 
like  No.  535,  2  qts,  15  cents.) 

Syrup  12,  butter  15,  milk  and  cream  30, 
coffee,  tea,  sugar,  bread  20. 

Total,  $1  74;  25  persons;  7  cents  a 
plate. 

Boarders  and  children  are  getting  filled 
up.  No  longer  ravenous  and  covetous  of 
large  portions.  Just  beginning  to  have 
misgivings  as  to  the  gentility  of  large  cuts, 
heaped  up  dishes  and  six  batter  cakes  on 
a  plate;  willing  to  have  them  made  small 
and  only  three  at  a  time.  'Tis  ever  thus 
after  a  week  or  two.  Out  of  eggs  again, 
as  usual ;  must  make  up  a  dinner  without. 
The  big  hotels  at  the  depot  catch  up  all 
that  comes  to  that  little  country  store. 
Our  manager  as  busy  is  as  a  bee  from  mom 
till  dewey  eve  playing  croquet  and  has  no 
time  to  go  further  to  buy.  But  we  are 
out  of  meat,  too,  and  somebody  must  go 
to  the  "Glen,"  which  is  a  few  sizes  larger 
jthan  the  depot  village,  and  buy  some. 

588— Trouble  with  the  Oatmeal. 


Breaidasl^ 


July  io» 
t 


racked  Vheat  mush  (2  ciipir  decked 


The  majority  of  those  who  board  where 
'the  oatmeal  or  cracked  wheat  mush  is 
made  regularly  and  made  good  soon  find 
they  cannot  make  a  satisfactory  meal 
without  it.  ^  It  is  an  article  of  diet  es- 
pecially desirable  for  children.  I  believe, 
moreover,  that  more  hard  work  both  of 
hands  and  head  can  be  done,  particularly 
in  hot  weather,  upon  a  diet  of  oatmeal 
and  cream  than  upon  any  mixed  diet 
of  meat  and  vegetables.  I'here  are  two 
ways  of  cooking  it  and  the  best  way  is 
difficult  and  more  or  less  wasteful.  There 
is  no  waste  m  cooking  the  oatmeal  in  a 
fiarina  kettle — as  the  double  kettles  are 
called — but  there  is  a  loss  of  something 
still.  We  cooks  know  by  various  signs 
when  a  dish  strikes  the  peoples'  fancy, 
and  know  that  the  oatmeal  and  cracked 
wheat  that  is  eaten  to  the  last  grain  and 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


for  which  the  disappointed  "help"  after 
the  meal  want  to  scrape  the  kettle  clean 
for  a  dish  for  themselves  is  not  that  which 
is  cooked  in  a  farina  kettle  or  steam  chest, 
but  that  cooked  in  a  thick-bottomed 
saucepan  slowly  at  the  back  of  the  range, 
where  a  crust  bakes  imder  and  around  it 
and  the  mush  gets  a  baked  flavor.  I  think 
the  best  way  to  cook  oatmeal  mush  would 
be  the  same  as  Boston  baked  beans,  in  a 
jar  in  the  oven,  but  have  never  been  suf- 
ficiently interested  to  try  it.  A  cup  of 
oatmeal  costing  two  or  three  cents  re- 
quires four  cups  of  water  to  cook  it,  and 
makes  a  quart  or  two  pounds  of  good 
food.  If  we  make  up  our  minds  that  it 
is  cheap  enough  to  throw  away  the  crust 
that  forms  in  the  kettle  every  time  k  is 
made,  the  best  quality  ban  be  secured  that 
way,  provided  there  is  a  slow  place  on 
the  range  for  it  to  simmer  for  a  couple  of 
hours.  Such,  however,  is  not  the  case 
here.  The  thin  stove  fired  up  with  light 
wood  causes  the  mush  to  bum  at  the 
bottom  every  other  day  and  the  fine  baked 
flavor  and  the  fine  theories  go  up  in  smoke 
together.  This  will  never  do.  So  having 
no  farina  kettle- and  there  being  none  to 
buy  at  either  village,  my  "sec'*  and  I  have 
hit  upon  the  plan  of  taking  a  five-pint 
milk  pail  with  a  tight  lid  and  settmg  it 
with  the  oatmeal,  previonsiy  steeped  in 
the  requisite  quantity  of  water,  inside  a 
deep  iron  pot  containing  water  and  so 
boil  and  steam  it,  covered  with  a  lid. 
These  tea-kettle  cooks  steam  many  a  loaf 
of  brown  bread  very  well  by  the  same 
plan,  and  could  steam  a  variety  of  good 
puddings  in  the  same  contiivance  if  they 
only  knew  how  to  make  them. 

589~Buttered  Eggs. 


Break  some  eggs— about  6  or  8  at  a 
time — into  a  bright  saucepan  and  add  for 
each  egg  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter 
and  very  little  salt.  Have  a  pan  of  water 
boiling  on  the  stove;  set  the  saucepan  in 
it  and  stir  and  beat  the  eggs  until  they  are 
cooked  as  thick  as  scram  bled  eggs.  Serve 
sometimes  plain  in  dishes  same  as  scram- 
bled eggs,  sometimes  on  fajicy  toast. 

SgO^Qraham  Cakes  with  Scur  Milk- 
Cheapest. 

It  is  necessary  to  mix  white  flour  with 


the  Graham,  about  half  of  each.  Other- 
wise they  are  made  the  same  as  thecAher 
kind.  No.  535. 


Dinner. 


Vegetable  soup  (No.  140;  cost  nommal, 

say  1 6  cents.) 
Roast  loin  mutton  (3  lbs,  30  cents.) 
Potted  beefsteak  (village  bought,  rough, 

30  cents.) 

Macaroni  with  creamed  cheese  (12  or- 
ders, 12  cents.) 

Green  peas  (firom  garden,  worth  2a 
cents.) 

Lima  beans  (dried,  y^  lb,  and  season- 
ing,^ 5  cents.) 

Tomatoes  (i  can,  15  cents.) 

Potatoes  (plain  steamed,  3  cents.) 

^^!f ?  P}5  ^-"^O;  593J  3  pies,  19  cents.) 

Old-iashioned  nee  pudding  (2  qts,  13 
cents;  sauce,  3—16  cents.) 

Condiments,  crackers,  nuts,  raisins, 
cheese  (average,  25  cents.) 

Butter  15^  milk  anv*  cream  30,  coffee, 
tea,  bread  10. 

Total,  $2  46;  25  persons;  nearly  10 
cents  a  plate. 


591— Potted  Beefsteak. 


Beef  in  pieces  baked  in  a  covered  jar, 
like  Boston  beans.  Put  two  or  three 
pounds  of  rough  cut  beef  into  a  gallon 
far,  with  a  few  cloves,  a  slice  of  bacon,  a 
oayleaf,  salt,  pepper,  httle  vinegar  and 
two  cups  water.  Cover  the  jar  with  a  lid, 
plate,  or  greased  paper.  Bake  3  hours 
m  a  slow  oven.  Then  take  out  the  meat, 
strain  the  gravy  and  skim  off  the  ^L  Add 
a  tablespoonful  of  walnut  catsup  to  the 
gravy  and  serve  it  with  shapely  cuts  or 
strips  ol  the  beef. 

592— Macaror.i  with  Creamed  Cheese. 


No  eggs  required,  costs  about  12  cents 
for  12  dishes. 

y^  pound  macaroni. 

4  ounces  cheese — a  heaping  imp 
minced. 

2  ounces  butter — size  of  an  egg. 

2  cups  milk. 

Cheese  that  is  good  enough  for  use  is 
generally  too  soft  to  grate,  but  muse  be 


SAN  JFRANCISCO  MOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


46 


chopped  fine. 

Break  the  raacaroni  and  throw 
boiling  water,  cook  20  minutes. 

Warm  the  butter  and  cheese  in  another 
saucepan  and  rub  them  together  with  a 
spoon,  add  milk  a  little  at  a  time  as  the 
cheese  becomes  hot,  and  a  pinch  of 
cayenne.  The  mixture  must  not  reach 
the  boiling  point.  Cheese  and  butter  will 
combine  when  warm  and  the  milk  grad- 
ually diluting  them  makes  a  thick,  creamy 
sauce,  but  they  separate  if  boiled.  Drain 
macaroni  and  pour  the  creamed  cheese 
over  it.  Serve  it  in  flat  dishes  heaped  as 
much  as  possible. 

593— Spice  Pie,  Vinegar  Pie  op  Har- 
vest Pie, 


Ibest  to  use  only  five  cups  of  milk  at  first, 
and  add  the  other  if  the  time  allows  the 
pudding  to  bake  down  dry  enough.  Cover 
with  a  sheet  of  greased  paper  to  keep  the 
top  from  scorchmg.    Serve  with  sau^e. 


Supper. 


No  eggs  required  nor  milk. 
2  cups  water — a  pint. 

1  cup  vinegar. 

2  cups  brown  sugar — a  pound. 
1  ounce  butter — small  egg  size. 
I  cup  flour — 4  ounces. 

I  teaspoon  ground  cinnamon. 

Boil  the  water,  vinegar  and  butter  to- 
gether. Mix  sugar,  flour  and  cinnamon 
together  dry  and  dredge  them  into  the 
boiling  liquid,  beating  at  the  same  time. 
Take  it  on  the  fire  as  soon  as  partly  thick- 
ened, before  it  boils.  It  will  finish  cook- 
ing in  the  pies.  Bake  with  both  a  bottom 
and  top  crust  rolled  very  thin.  It  is  nec- 
essary to  be  particular  to  get  just  the  right 
proportion  of  flour. 

594— Baked    Rice    Pudding    witnout 
Eggs. 

Neither  eggs  nor  butter  required.  It  is 
called  by  a  dozen  difierent  names,  such 
as  Astor  House,  poor  man's  pudding  and 
others  and  is  made  daily  in  many  fine 
hotels  as  an  alternative  from  the  richer 
kinds,  which  some  cannot  eat. 

I  cup  rice — J^  pound. 

I  cup  sugar— 14  pound. 

6  cups  milk. 

Cinnamon  or  nutmeg. 

A  pinch  of  salt. 

Wash  the  rice  in  three  or  four  waters 
put  it  into  a  tin  pudding  pan,  and  the 
sugar,  milk,  salt  and  piece  of  stick  cinna- 
mon with  it,  all  cold,  and  bake  in  a  slow 
oven  for  three  or  four  hours.    It  may  be 


Oatmeal  (3  cents.) 

Beefsteak  (6  orders,  12  oz, -equal  i  lb, 
gross,  15  cents.) 

Cold  mutton  (8  orders,  10  oz,  net; 
charged  dinner.) 

Potatoes  (2  ways,  3  cents.) 

Graham  rolls  (No.  596;  30  rolls,  12 
cents.) 

Raspberry  shortcake  with  cream,  (No. 
595 ;  2  dinner  plate  size ;  paste  27 ;  berries 
and  sugar  30 ;  24  cuts  57  cents.) 

Cream  40,  milk  18.  cofiee,  tea,  sugar  14, 
butter  15. 

Total,  $1  77 ;  25  persons ;^^ over  7  centsa 
plate. 


595— Raspberry  Shortcake. 


Boys  made  a  bargain  with  me  that  I 
should  make  raspberry  shortcake  for  the 
crowd  if  they  would  go  and  pick  the  ber- 
ries. Imposed  the  condition  that  they 
should  bring  a  gallon.  Said  they  would 
if  they  could,  but  it  was  a  week  too  early 
yet  for  berries  to  be  plenty.  They  came 
home  at  four  o'clock  in  disorder.  Had 
been  in  old  Barnacle's  woods  and  the  old 
chap  and  his  hired  man  came  up  with 
switches  and  wanted  to  take  the  berries 
away  from  them.  Boys  called  up  their 
big  dog  to  defend  them  and  ran  home*  I 
am  under  solemn  promise  "not  to  tell 
pa."  Sorry,  for  they  will  be  afraid  to  go 
to  Barnacle's  to  buy  eggs,  now.  They 
brought  nearly  two  quarts  red  raspberries 
(25  cents.)  After  looking  them  over  I 
shook  a  large  cup  powdered  sugar  (5 
cents)  into  them.    For  the  short  paste : 

8  level  cups  flour— 2  pounds. 

2  cups  butter —  i  pound. 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  after  first 
slicing  it  thin.  When  well  mingled,  wet 
with  two  small  cups  water.  Knead  the 
paste  smooth,  roll  out  and  bake  on  two 
jelly  cake  pans  or  large  pie  pans  if  the 
others  are  not  at  hand.  Split  the  short- 
cakes when  done  and  spread  with  berries, 
both  inside  and  on  top.    Cut  in  8.    Cost 


i7 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


2^  cents  a  cut.     Serve  cream  in  in- 
dividual creamers. 


596— Graham  Pocket  Book  Rolls. 


Graham  rolls  are  a  novelty  in  most 
places  and  very  nice  if  made  like  French 
rolls,  that  is,  folded  over  with  a  touch  of 
butter  between,  so  that  they  pull  open 
when  baked.  It  requires  more  practice, 
however,  to  make  them  of  good  shape,  as 
Graham  dough  rises  faster  than  white 
and  the  shapes  run  out  Hat  if  kept  too 
warm.  ,0f  course  the  more  difficult  it  is 
to  make' such  an  article  the  more  merit 
and  the  more  of  a  specialty  it  is  for  the 
one  who  can.  Some  white  flour  must 
be  mixed  with  the  Graham.  The  addi- 
tion of  the  white  of  an  egg  to  the  liquor 
the  dou^h  is  mixed  with,  is  an  improve- 
ment— Section  No.  261.  Use  com- 
pressed yeast.  Make  half  in  split  rolls, 
the  rest  a  loaf  of  Graham  bread. 

Breakfast. 


July  II. 

Oatmeal  (3  cents.) 

Salmon  trout,  breaded  and  fried  (15 
orders,  4^  lbs,  gross,  36;  2  eggs  to  bread 
X ;  cracker  meal  2 ;  lard  to  fry  equal  to  3^ 
lb,  loss,  6—47  cents.) 

Beefsteak  18  orders,  i  lb,  net,  20  cents.) 

Breakfast  bacon  (4 orders, 54  lb,6 cents.) 

Potatoes  German  fried  (6  cents.) 

Com  bread  (No.  599;  "  cents.) 

Biscuits  (24,  15  cents.) 

Batter  cakes  [cheapest,  iqt,  7  cents.] 
:    Syrup  10,  butter  15,  milk,  cream  22, 
coffee,  tea  7. 

Total,  $1  69;  25  persons;  nearly  7 
cents  a  plate. 

597 — Salmon  Trout  Fried. 


Split  the  r*ah  down  both  sides  of  the 
backbone  and  take  it  out,  cut  the  two 
sides  in  two-ounce  pieces ;  salt  and  pep- 
per, dip  in  egg  and  then  in  cracker  meal 
and  fry  by  immersion  in  hot  lard. 

598— Building  a  House    with    Bread 
Crusts. 


or  gingerbread  work  upon  them,  but  the 
meaning  is  not  half  so  literally  intended 
as  a  remark  I  heard  when  old  Mr.  Stick- 
tite  was  building  the  fine  view  four-story 
Sticktite  House  at  Jknsonvale  Junction. 
It  was  said  he  built  that  house  with  money 
saved  by  drying  the  broken  pieces  of  bread 
and  crushing  them  to  use  instead  of 
cracker  meal  to  bread-crumb  fried  oysters 
and  fish  and  other  things.  No  doubt  but 
that  particular  was  but  one  tangible  point 
seized  upon  to  represent  a  life  full  of  small 
saving  ways,  by  which  wealth  was  ac- 
quired in  the  long  run.  But  I  don't  see 
where  the  harm  was  in  that.  Mr.  Stick 
tite  had  the  depot  eating  house  and  he 
had  a  large  oyster  trade  besides  and  he 
was  not  the  man  to  give  grounds  for  the 
cutting  sarcasms  which  are  flung  at  rail- 
j  road  eating-house  sandwiches,  bread  and 
rolls.  Wtien  they  became  dry — really, 
dry  and  hard — he,  instead  01  palming 
them  off  upon  helpless  travelers  took  them 
off  his  counters  and  tables  and  even  out  of 
his  showcases,  had  the  dark  crust  shaved 
off  and  spread  them  on  trays  in  a  warm 
plac  cover  the  oven  to  become  dry  enough 
to  crush ;  then,  to  keep  the  boys  and  girls 
out  of  mishchief  between  train  times,  he 
made  them  roll  and  sift  the  dried  bread 
so  that  it  looked  like  com  mealorv^racker 
meal.  And  some  of  them  could  easily 
save  their  wages  that  way.  It  does  not 
take  long  to  use  up  a  barrel  of  cracker 
meal  where  there  is  a  considerable  trade 
in  fried  oysters  or  in  a  hotel  where  veal 
cutlets  and  fried  mush  are  breaded  every 
day.  As  our  price  list  of  groceries  shows 
cracker  meal  costs  exactly  the  same  price 
as  new  crackers,  or  seven  dollars  a  hun- 
dred, so  a  hundred  pounds  of  crushed 
dried  bread  is  worth  just  that  amount. 

But  is  it  as  good?  is  the  question. 

Yes,  if  selected  and  freed  from  crust 
before  crushing. 

599— Fine  Corn  Bread. 


We  have  all  heard  of  gingerbread  hous 


Happily  for  us  all  this  little  company 
of  people  contains  no  distressful  hypo- 
chondriacs nor  people  with  special  aver- 
sions. Two  harmless  hot- water  drinking 
lunatics,  that's  all.  But  some  of  them 
have  intimated  that  it  is  essential  to  their 
happiness  to  have  com  bread  for  break- 
fast constantly,  and  baked  potatoes;  or- 
ders which  make  those  two  oishes  fixtures 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


on  the  bill  of  fare  from  this  time  forth. 
For  fine  com  bread  take : 
2  heaping  cups  com  meal. 

1  or  2  ounces  butter  or  la^J-rsize  of -an 
egg. 

2  eggs,  salt. 

2  teaspoons  baking  powder.- 

Milk  or  water  to  mix. 

Make  a  hollow  in  the  meal  and  put  in 
the  butter  and  pour  in  a  little  boiling 
water  from  the  teakettle  to  scald  part  of 
the  meal.  Thin  it  down  with  cola  milk, 
add  the  eggs  and  salt  and  lastly  the 
powder.  Beat  it  well  with  spoon  or  egg 
whip.  Have  the  baking  pan  hot  and  not 
greased.  If  it  hisses  when  the  com  batter 
IS  poured  in  the  bread  never  sticks.  Per- 
fect success  with  corn  bread  of  this  fine 
sort  depends  on  having  the  batter  th3 
proper  consistency.  It  should  be  like 
thidc  batter-cake  mixture  when  poured  m 
the  baking  pan.  If  just  right  it  will  rise 
rounded  and  smooth  and  cuts  like  cake. 
For  com  bread  without  eggs,  see  No.  626. 


pUte, 


Third  expressed  lot  of  of  meat  arrived. 
Have  got  prices  down  to : 
Mutton  chaiged  @  10  cents. 
Lamb,  @  10. 

Beef  round  boneless  forsteak,  ©13. 
Beef  rib  roast,  @  12^. 
Liver,  @  12^. 
Sweetbreads,  small  lot  presonted. 

Dinner. 


'600— Cream  of  Rice  Soup. 


Cream  of  rice  soup  (No.  600 ;.4  qts,  15 
cents.) 

Trout  baked,  an  gratm  (No.  601 ;  3 lbs, 
36  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (2  ribs,  4  lbs,  50  cents.) 

Roast  mutton  (2  lbs,  20  cents.) 

Blanquetteoflamb  (No.  602;  12  orders, 
14  cents.) 

Green  peas  (10  cents.) 

Lima  beans  (charged  yesterday's  din- 
ner.) 

Mashed  potatoes  (5  cents.) 

Raspberry  meringne  (No.  604;  24 -or- 
ders, 36  cents.) 

Vanilla  ice  cream  (2  qts,  26  cents.) 

RaisiuS,    nuts,    cheese,    condiments, 
crackers  (average,  25  cents.) 

Milk,  cream  30,  coffee,  tea  6,  butter, 
bread  10. 

Total,  $2  77;  25  persons;  u  cents  a 


Piit  into  5  quarts  of  water  some  soup 
bones  and  the  neck  and  shanks  obtained 
firom  the  newly  arrived  side  of  lamb,  3  or 
4  small  green  onions,  a  pinch  of  thyme 
and  savory;  boiled  an  hour  and  took  out 
the  pieces  of  lamb  to  make  the  blan- 
guette.  An  hour  later  poured  the  stock 
from  the  bones  through  a  fine  strainer 
into  a  clean  soup  pot,  and  skimmed  off 
the  fat. 

Boiled  half  a  cup  of  rice  in  a  small 
saucepan.  Made  a  quart  of  milk  hot 
and  mashed  the  rice  with  milk  added  a 
little  at  a  time:  put  it  into  the  soup  stock, 
also  a  half  blade  of  mace,  salt,  cayenne, 
a  small  carrott  from  seed  bed  finely 
minced.  Let  simmer  and  skimmed  again. 
Lastly  added  a  spoonful  of  thickening, 
half  cup  of  cream  and  an  ounce  of  butter. 
Costs  4  cents  a  quart. 


601—Trout,  au  Gratin. 

Au  gratin  signifies  that  the  fish  is 
gratinated  or  browned  like  toast  on  the 
surface,  and  therefore,  that  it  is  covered 
with  bread  crumbs.  It  comes  handy  to 
express  it  in  that  way,  as  the  fish  is  not 
exactiy  breaded  as  for  frying. 

Split  the  fish  in  halves  and  dredge  both 
sides  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  a  spoon- 
ful of  drippings  into  your  baking  pan  and 
let  it  get  hot.  Dip  the  skin  side  of  the 
sides  of  fish  in  either  milk  or  egg,  and 
then  in  cracker  meal  or  crumbs  and  place 
in  the  pan  with  the  breaded  side  up. 
Bake  it  brown  and  baste  once  with  butter. 
Divide  neatly  in  pieces  with  a  sharp 
knife.  Serve  either  sauce,  gravy,  or 
potato  balls  with  it. 

602— Blanquette  (or  White  Dish)  of 
Lamb  with  Fried  Crusts. 


This  was  the  first  appearance  of  the 
lamb  in  any  form  at  this  table  and  the 
littie  entree  was  quite  sure  to  be  in  re- 
quest; and  although  but  a  trifle  to  fill  the 
bill  it  served  as  a  premonition  to  the 
boarders  of  more  lamb  to  come. 

Took  the  pieces  of  lamb  cooked  in  the 


49 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


soup  stock,  cut  into  large  dice.  Boiled 
a  ladleful  of  stock  with  teasfwonful 
minced  onion,  put  the  cut  meat  in  and 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Made  white  sauce  of  ladleful  of  the 
finished  soup  (to  save  time)  with  cream, 
butter,  thickening  and  scrap  broken  nut- 
meg and  a  tablespoon  of  mushroom  cat- 
sup (private  stock  from  the  cook's  valise) 
and  poured  it  to  the  lamb.  Serve  with 
cut  shapes  of  fried  bread  for  border  and 
a  sprinkling  of  green  peas. 

603— Fancy  Shapes  of  Fried  Bread. 


These  may  be  very  ornamental  if  fried 
to  a  clean,  bright  yellow-brown  color  in 
the  clear  oil  of  butter  or  in  lard.  Cut  slices 
of  bread  m  diamond  shapes  or  six  sided 
and  cut  out  the  middle,  then  divide  by 
a  cut  across  and  you  have  a  border  for 
each  end  of  the  dish  and  the  filling  will 
be  in  the  middle,  or,  cut  thin  slices  and 
then  take  a  scollop-edge  cutter  and  cut 
out  crescent  shapes  and  fry  them. 

604 — Raspberry  Nleringne. 


cents  each. 


Supper. 


Bought  wild  raspberries  at  12  cents  a 
quart.  Meringne  is  best  made  with  cake 
as  at  Nos.  195,  and  395,  but  having  paste 
left  over  from  shortcake  trimmings  of 

Erevious  day  used  that.  Lined  two  shal- 
>w  pans  with  thin  crust  and  baked  light 
colored.  Spread  them  both  with  one 
quart  berries  mixed  with  half  cup  sugar. 
Whipped  8  whites,  stirred  in  8  teaspoons 
sugar,  spread  on  top  and  baked  lightly. 
Made  24  cuts ;  cost  i  J^  cents  each.  Serve 
with  cream. 


605— Vanilla  Ice  Cream. 


I  quart  milk. 

8  volks  (left  from  raspberry  meringne.) 

I  heaping  cup  sugar. 

I  pint  cream. 

Vanilla  extract  i  tablespoon. 

Made  rich  boiled  custard  of  the  milk, 
sugar  and  yolks  (No.  200)  strained  into 
treezer,  added  the  cream  and  flavor. 
Takes  half  hour  to  freeze  and  half  hour 
more  to  stand  and  become  firm,  3  quarts 
after  freezing,  8  orders  to  a  quarts  i^ 


Broiled  Pickerel  (3  lbs,  gross,  and  but- 
ter, 30  cents.) 
Beefsteak  (6  orders  12  ozs,  11  cents.) 
Cold  meats  (6  orders,  charged  dinner.) 
Codfish  in  cream  (4  orders,  3  cents.) 
Baked  potatoes  (3  cents.) 
Butter  rolls  (No.  607 ;  20  cents.) 
Raspberries  and  cream  (2  qts,  berries 
25,  su^ar  5,  cream  20;  50  cents.) 

Plain  white  cake  (No.  609;  2  lbs,  17 
cents.) 

Butter  5,  milk,  cream  20,  coffee,  tea, 
bread,  sugar  15. 

Total,  $1   74;  25  persons;  7  cents  a 
plate. 

606— Broiled    Pickerel   with   French 
Potatoes. 


Pickerel  is  a  firmer  fish  than  Mackinaw 
trout,  less  oily  than  whitefish  and  pre- 
ferred by  many.  Split  by  cutting  down 
both  sides  of  the  back  bone.  Cut  each 
half  in  three  or  four,  dip  in  flour,  put  in 
the  hmged  wire  broiler,  broil  both  sides 
and  brush  with  butter.  Serve  with  a  few 
crisp  "Francaise"  potatoes  in  the  plate. 


607— Butter  Rolls. 

Sometimes  called  tea  cake,  and  also 
Sally  Lunn. 

2  pounds  light  bread  dough. 
I  ounce  sugar—a  spoonful. 
4  ounces  butter— J^  cup. 

3  yolks  of  eggs. 

I  teacup  milk  or  cream. 

1  pound  flour  to  work  in. 

Take  the  doughy  already  light,  4  hours 
before  the  meal,  mix  in  all  the  mgredients. 
Let  rise  2  hours.  Knead,  then  make  the 
dough  into  round  balls  and  roll  them  flat. 
Brush  over  with  melted  butter  and  place 
two  of  the  flats  together,  one  on  the  other. 
Press  in  the  center.  Rise  an  hour,  and 
bake.  When  done,  slip  a  thin  shaving  of 
fresh  butter  inside  each  and  brush  the 
top  over  slightly,  too.  Should  be  made 
very  small  if  to  serve  whole,  or  as  large 
as  saucers,  to  cut.  Makes  8  large  enough 
to  cut  in  4.    Cost  buttered  20  cents. 


•< 


^y 


> 


CUi 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


50 


608— Raspberries  and  Cream. 

Serve  the  berries  in  glass  plates  or  ice 
cream  saucers  individually,  quite  plain, 
with  powdered  sugar  and  cream  on  the 
table. 

609— Good  White  Cake. 


A  great  deal  of  the  fuss  and  labor  some 
people  go  through  every  time  a  white 
cake  is  to  be  made  is  altogether  needless: 
to  prove  it  try  this  easy  cake  and  be  sur- 
prised: that  it  can  be  put  together  so 
quickly : 

2  cups  sugar — a  pound. 

I  cup  melted  butter — ^  pound. 

10  wnites  of  eggs. 

1  cup  milk.  .  . 

2  teaspoons  baking  powder. 
I  teaspoon  cream  tartar. 

6  cups  flour— I  ^  pounds. 

Put  the  sugar  ana  melted  butter  into 
the  mixing  pan  along  with  the  whites,  not 
whipped,  then  take  the  wire  egg  beater 
and  beat  them  together  a  minute  or  two; 
add  the  milk,  powder,  cream  tartar  and 
flour  and  some  flavoring  extract  if  you 
choose,  and  beat  it  up  with  a  spoon  thor- 
oughly. The  more  it  is  beaten  the  whiter 
and  finer  the  cake.  If  there  is  no  cream 
tartar  handy  use  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 
Makes  nearly  4  pounds;  costs  34  cents. 
Ought  to  be  frosted  the  easy  way.  No.  3; 
or,  with  frosting  that  will  slice  without 
breaking.  No.  635. 

Brealcfast. 


July  12. 

Fresh  black  cap  raspberries  (i  qt,  la 
cents.) 

Oatmeal  (3  cents.) 

Fish  plain  fried  (7  orders,  i  lb,  and  lard, 
12  cents.) 

Beefsteak  (12  orders,  ij^  lbs,  20  cents.) 

Liver  breaded  (8  orders,  12  cents.) 

Potatoes  baked  and  a  la  Francaise  (7 
cents.) 

French  rolls  (25,  10  cents.) 

Corn  bread  and  corn  batter  cakes  (16 
cents.) 

Cream  and  milk  42,  syrup  6,  butter  15, 
coffee,  tea  12. 

Total,  $1  6t;;  2«;  persons;  6J4  cents 
a  Tilate. 


610— Fish  Fried  Plain. 


Dip  the  pieces  in  flour  only  and  drop 
into  a  saucepan  of  lard  hot  enough  to  hiss. 
All  the  smaller  kinds  of  fish  and  those 
most  esteemed  for  their  flavor  such  as 
brook  trout  and  whitebait  are  best  fried 
that  way,  and  it  is  suitable  for  all  kinds 
if  they  are  cut  in  thin  pices. 


611— Calf s  Liver  Breaded  and   Fried 


Cut  thin  slices,  pepper  and  salt  them, 
dip  in  a  little  milk  m  a  saucer  (not  to 
wash  the  seasoning  away)  then  in  cracker 
meal  in  which  a  little  flour  has  been  mixed. 
To  make  it  a  better  color  the  liver  had 
better  be  dipped  twice  giving  it  a  double 
breading,  otherwise  it  comes  out  dark. 
Drop  into  a  frying  pan  of  hot  drippings 
or  lard,  and  fry.  Serve  either  plam  or 
with  a  slice  of  broiled  bacon. 

612— Potatoes  Francaise. 


Cut  potatoes  raw  with  a  fluted  or  scol- 
loped knife,  (there  are  knives  made  for  the 
purpose)  in  thm  strips  the  length  of  the 
potato,  and  drop  them  a  few  at  a  time  into 
a  saucepan  of  hot  lard  or  drippings. 
When  they  rise  from  the  bottom  and 
float,  they  are  dene.  Take  up  in  a  col- 
ander set  in  a  plate.  Sprinkle  with  fine 
salt  and  a  little  minced  parsely  and  serve 
hot  and  crisp.  The  fat  should  not  be 
very  hot  for  these  as  if  fried  too  quickly 
the  potatoes  turn  soft  after  taking  up. 

Dinner. 


Italian  soup  (No.  613;  5  qts,  20  cents.) 
Boiled  Mackinaw  trout,  pickle  sauce 
(2  lbs,  and  sauce,  20  cents.) 
Roast  beef  (i  rib,  2  lbs,  25  cents.) 
Roast  lamb  (Nos  145,  146;  3  lbs,  35 

cents.)  .  ,  , 

Beet  greens  (from  garden,  worth   10 

cents.) 

Sweet  com  (i  can,  15  cents.) 
•  Rice  with  cream  (J^  cup  raw   2;  sea- 
soning 4—6  cents.) 

Mashed  potatoes  (5  cents.) 

Steamed  raspberry  puddmg,  hard  sauce 
(Nos.  176  and  177 ;  21  cents.) 
Chocolate  butter  pie  (without  eggs ;  No. 


^I 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


617 ;  3  large,  20  cents.) 
JPi  " 


'ickles,  condiments,  cheese,  nuts,  rrai 
sins,  crackers  average,  25  cents. 

Butter  10,  milk,  cream  22,  coffee,  tea  10. 

Total,  $2  44;  25  persousj  nearly  10 
cents  a  plate. 

613— Italian  Soup. 


4  quarts  soup  stock  (obtained  as  at  No» 
582.) 

I  quart  milk. 

4  ounces  macaroni  broken  small. 

I  cup  cooked  lamb,  veal  or  chicken  cut 
small. 

I  cup  mixed  vegetables  same  way. 

Chopped  parsely  or  other  green  herb  or 
vegetable. 

Salt,  cayenne,  thickening. 

It  is  a  white  soup  with  macaroni,  etc., 
in  it.  Strain  off  the  stock,  skim  free  from 
grease,  put  in  the  vegetables  and  maca- 
roni and  afterwards  the  cut  meat  and 
milk.  When  lamb  is  boiled  the  broth 
has  a  milky  appearance  and  it  is  advisa- 
ble to  make  white  soup  of  that  material. 


614— Beet  Greens. 

Take  the  leaves  of  young  beets,  throw 
away  the  thick  stalks,  wash  the  leaves 
and  keep  in  cold  water.  Shortly  before 
dinner  put  them  into  a  pot  of  boiling 
water  in  which  throw  a  lump  of  baking 
soaa  size  of  a  bean.  The  greens  cook  in 
about  half  an  hour.  Drain  in  a  colander. 
Season  with  salt  and  corned  beef  fat  or 
butter  and  cut  them  small  in  the  pan. 


615— Rice  with  Cream, 


Wash  half  a  cup  of  rice  and  put  it  to 
boil  in  a  cup  of  water  with  a  lid  on.  When 
nearly  dry  add  half  a  cup  of  milk  and 
little  salt.  When  done  mix  in  a  half  a 
cup  of  cream.  Serve  same  as  a  vefi;etable 
in  deep  dishes. 

616— Puddings  without  Eggs. 


At  Cedar  Point  Cottage  on  Nipantuck 
Island,  one  day  I  found  Mary  Jane  in  a 


state  of  great  perturbation ;  she  was  sit- 
ting on  the  edge  of  a  washtub,  her  face 
very  red  and  with  her  wetted  thumb  she 
was  turning  over  the  leaves  of  a  cook 
book  at  a  rapid  rate. 

"I  don't  know  what  to  g.ve  'em,"  she 
said. 

"What's  the  matter?" 

"Pudding:  Them  fifteen  boarders  will 
be  here  in  less  than  an  hour  as  hungry  as 
go-its,  and  they  won't  think  they've  had 
any  dinner  if  there  don't  be  pudding 
every  day." 

"Well,"  I  said,  "you  know  there  are 
some  kinds  can  be  made  in  a  few  min- 
utes," and  I  looked  to  see  whether  her 
fire  was  good. 

"I  know,"  she  returned,  "yes,  I  know 
lots,  but  all  the  dratted  puddings  seems 
to  want  eggs  and  there  isn't  an  egg  on  the 
I  island  this  blessed  day." 

"Oh,  that's  the  trouble ;  then  why  not 
try  this,"  and  I  pointed  out  No.  176. 

"Theieit  is  again,"  says  Mary  Jane, 
"that*s  cherry  pudding  and  where  would 
I  get  the  chemes?" 

"Don't  you  see  that  what  is  good  for 
one  kind  of  fruit  is  good  for  any  other  kind? 
That  receipt  shows  the  way  they  mg.ke 
the  steamed  apple  pudding  or  apple  rolls 
as  they  call  it  at  some  high-priced  city 
restaurants;  for  never  an  egg  do  they  use 
for  puddings  at  some  of  thosj  places;  they 
chop  the  apples  small  and  use  the  same 
as  that  says  to  use  cherries." 

"And  would  these  blackberries  do  that 
I  was  going  to  make  pie  of  and  didn't  find 
time?" 

"Of  course  they  will,  and  it  only  takes 
about  five  minutes  and  your  pot  there  is 
boiling  and  there  is  the  steamer  hanginjg 
up  clean  and  ready  and  you  must  do  this 
way,  use  a  large  pie  plate,  and  be  sure 
not  to  have  the  layers  of  dough  too  thick 
because  they  rise  so  much  that  the  pud- 
ding will  seem  to  have  too  little  fruit  if 
you  do.  It  will  be  all  the  better  for  being 
made  late  and  being  served  as  soon  as  it  is 
done." 

By  that  time  Mary  Jane's  perplexity 
was  all  over,  and  when  the  time  came  to 
change  those  fifteen  plates  she  had  ready 
for  them  as  fine  a  pudding  as  you  would 
wish  to  meet  on  a  summer  day.  For  an- 
other class  of  puddings  without  eggs  see 
Nos.  631,  639,  652,  594  and  index. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


3^ 


617~Chocolate    Butter    Pie  without 
Eggs. 


The  same  as  No.  577  with  a  small  cup 
of  grated  chocolate  added  to  the  milk 
when  put  on  to  boil  with  the  butter  in  it. 
Chocolate  flavor  is  not  good  in  combin- 
ation with  eggs,  but  it  is  with  butter  and 
cream.  Chocolate  custard  frozen  is  not 
much  esteemed,  but  chocolate  with  pure 
cream  is  one  of  the  favorite  ices.  So  this 
chocolate  butter  pie  is  the  best  flavored 
compound  of  the  sort  that  can  be  made. 
If  wanted  as  good  as  it  can  be,  use  a  pound 
of  sugar  and  half  a  pound  of  butter  to  a 
quart  of  milk  and  four  ounces  flour  and 
the  cup  of  chocolate.  Makes  three  pies 
large  and  deep,  each  to  cut  in  eight. 

Supper. 


Discouraged  landloard.  Twelfth  of 
July  gone  and  still  "nobody  in  the 
nouse,    comparatively  speaking. 

Some  very  fine  people  sure  to  come 
soon  and  there  is  a  paiitv  or  two  talked  of 
but  meantime  he  says  there  is  no  use  of 
our  doing  our  best. '  Cut  down  expense 
and  take  it  easy.    There  is  pleasant  row- 
ing on  the  lake  and  the  girls  have  struck 
up  some  new  tunes. 
Cracked  wheat  mush  (3  cents.) 
Lamb  stew  with  potatoes  (10  cents.) 
Cold  roast  beef  (charged  dinner.) 
Potato  pats  and  German  fried  (cold 
served  previous  meals. ) 
French  rolls  (10  cents.) 
Flour  batter  cakes  (cheapest.  No.  535; 
a  qts,  10  centa.) 

Peaches  (3  lb,  can.  CaL  in  syrup,  25 
cents.) 
Chelsea  buns  (No.  619;  2a,  16  cents.) 
Syrup  8,  butter  20,  milk,  cream  32, 
coffee,  tea,  sugar,  bread  17. 

Total,  $1  St;  25  persons;  6  cents  a 
pkte. 

618— Lamb  and  Potato  Stew,  or  Gal- 
limaufry. 

This  is  said  by  one  of  our  French 
authors  to  be  the  ancient  dish  of  gal- 
limaufry a  la  Languedocienne.  It  does 
not  hurt  anybody  to  eat  it,  however,  and 
only  costs  10  or  12  cents  with  all  its 


wealth  of  name  thrown  m. 

Take  some  pieces  of  cold  lamb ;  about 
I  pound  of  clear  meat  will  do  and  it  may 
be  the  neck  or  shoulder  that  was  boiled 
until  just  done  in  the  soup  boiler.  Shave 
off  the  dark  portions  and  cut  the  meat  in 
laige  dice.  Cut  an  equal  amount  of  raw 
potatoes  the  same  way  and  put  both  on 
to  boil  with  clear  broth  or  water  barely 
to  cover.  Put  in  a  small  onion  cut  up 
and  if  to  be  true  to  name  a  clove  of  garlic 
and  sprig  of  green  thyme  and  little  chop- 
ped parsley.  When  it  has  sttwed  until 
the  potatoes  are  done,  season  with  pepper 
and  salt  and  thicken  it  slightly  if' the 
potatoes  have  not  boiled  away  and  thick- 
ened it  alreadv.  It  is  a  neat  looking  little 
stew  and  good  for  a  family  supper. 


619— Chelsea   Buns,    without   Eggs. 


One  of  the  sweetest  warm  breads  that 
serve  in  place  of  cake  when  there  are  no 
eggs  to  be  had. 

Take  nearly  half  the  dough  that  is 
mixed  up  for  French  rolls  and  work  into 
it  a  few  currants.  Roll  it  out  to  a  very 
thin  sheet,  brush  over  with  softened  but- 
ter, sprinkle  sugar  all  over,  then  cut  the 
dough  into  ribbons  and  coil  them  into 
spiral  buns.  Place  with  plenty  of  room 
between  in  a  buttered  pan,  rise  an  hour 
and  bake.  Sugar  over  when  done.  For 
exact  proportions,  see  No.  267.  That 
variety  is  like  currant  rolls,  these  are  flat 
coils. 


Breakfast. 


July  13. 

Oatmeal  (3  cents.) 

Beefsteaks  (6,  12  cents.) 

Lamb  chops  (10,  i  lb,  net,  i^  gross, 
15  cents.) 

Ham  (4,  8  cents.) 

Shirred  eggs  (No.  94;  i8>  and  butter, 
24  cents.) 

French  fried  potatoes  (6  cents.) 

Com  muffins  (No.  286;  24,  12  cents.) 

French  rolls  (8  cents.) 

Graham  batter  cakes  (i  qt,  8  cents.) 

Syrup,  butter  23,  milk,  cream  32, 
cofiee,  tea,  sugar  12. 

Total,  $1  63;  25  persons;  65^ -cents, 
a  plate. 


y 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


620~-Lamb  Chops  and  Toast. 


Lamb  chops  are  tedious,  being  small, 
but  make  a  choice  dish  for  a  Sunday 
breakfast.  As,  in  order  to  make  a  chop 
worth  having  of  the  ribs  it  is  necessary  to 
cut  two  ribs  to  each,  take  out  one  bone  and 
leave  all  the  meat  on  the  other,  there  can 
be  but  few,  to  serve  to  the  most  honor- 
ably select,  the  main  dependence  for 
quantity  is  in  cutting  up  the  entire  loin 
and  perhaps  the  leg.  Flatten  with  the 
cleaver.  Trim  and  shape  all  as  near  like 
rib  chops  as  may  be.  Cut  little  pieces  of 
buttered  toast  very  thin  and  in  pear  shape. 
Place  one  in  the  dish,  a  broiled  chop 
leaning  upon  it,  another  piece  of  toast 
and  another  chop — all  on  an  end  aslant 
in  the  dish— and  garnish  with  parsley  or 
cress  or  yoimg  seed-bed  celery. 


Dinner.  (Sunday.) 


Roast  beef  (i  rib,  2  lbs,  28  cents.) 

Spring  lamb  (4  lbs,  44  cents.) 

1  omatoes  (i  can,  seasoned,  16  cents.) 

Com  (i  can,  seasoned,  16  cents.) 

String  beans  (i  can,  14  cents.) 

Tomatoes  (2  ways,  6  cents.) 

Rhubarb  pie  (i,  o  cents.) 

Cocoanut  custard  pie  (No.  621 ;  2,  20 
cents.) 

Icecream  with  raspberries  (No.  218; 
3  pts,  pure  cream  15,  14  ozs,  sugar  7, 
2  qts,  berries  20,  freezmg  i — ^47  cents.) 

Fine  white  cake  frosted  (No.  622 ;  20 
cents.) 

Layer  cake  with  raspberry  jelly,  frosted 
(No.  622 ;  22  cents.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers,  pickles, 
condiments  (average,  25  cents.) 

Milk  (  2  galls,  24  cents.) 

Cream  (i  pt,  10  cents.) 

Butter,  bread  13,  coflfee,  tea  6. 

Total,  $3  20;  25  persons;  neariy"i3 
cents  a  plate. 


621— Cocoanut  Custard  Pie, 


2  cups  milk — a  pint. 
>^  cup  sugar — 4  ozs. 

3  eggs— or,  6  yolks  left  as  from  No.  622. 
I  heaping  cup  cocoanut— grated  fresh, 

or  dry. 


I  teaspoon  lemon  extract. 

Beat  the  eggs  sugar  and  milk  together, 
add  the  cocoanut  and  flavor.  M^es  a 
quart  and  fills  two  pies  large  and  deep. 

Costs :  milk  2,  sugar  2,  eggs  4,  cocoanut 
6,  extract  i,  short  crusts  4  or  5;  20  cents 
for  2.    Cut  each  in  8. 


622— Best  White  Cake,   or  '^Dream 
Calce.'' 


2  cups  granulated  sugar — a  pound. 
I  cup  butter— ^  pound. 
12  whites  of  eggS7-i2  ounces. 

1  cup  milk — ^pint. 

2  rounded  teaspoons  baking  powder. 
I      do     cream  tartar. 

Vanilla  or  lemon  extract. 

4  large  cups  flour— a  pound  good  weight. 

Sift  the  flour,  powder  and  cream  tartar 
together  three  or  four  times  over. 

Soften  the  butter  and  stir  it  and  the 
sugar  together  until  white  and  creamy, 
graduaUy  stir  in  the  milk,  tepid,  and  a 
handful  of  the  flour  to  keep  them  from  sep- 
arating. Whip  the  whites  to  froth  and  add 
part  whites  and  part  flour  until  all  are  in. 
can  b  e  baked  in  cake  moulds  or  in  layers. 
Makes  i  3-pint  mould  of  cake  and  i 
shallow  tin  cake  pan  an  inch  deep.  When 
done,  spread  over  them  the  easy  cake 
frosting.  No.  3  and  set  in  a  warm  place 
to  dry. 

Cost :  sugar  8,  butter  10,  whites  equal 
to  8  eggs  %  15,  10,  milk  1,  powder  and 
c.  t.  3,  flour  3,  frosting  for  2  cakes  5;  40 
cents  for  4  pounds. 


Sup|)e^ 


Beefsteaks  (9  orders,  18  cents.) 
Codfish  in  cream  (5  cents.) 
Potatoes  baked  and  fried  (4  cents.) 
German  puffs  (No.  623  trebled;    24 

puffs,  18  cents.) 
Toast  and  bread  (6  cents.) 
White  cake,  cookies,  jelly  cake  (from 

dinner.) 
Rhubarb  stewed  for  sauce  (13  cents.) 
Milk,  cream  34,  butter  20,  coffee,  tea 

12. 
Total,  $1  30;  25  persons;  about  5J^ 

cents  a  plate. 


SAN  IRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


54 


623— German    Puffs,    Flannel   Rolls, 
Muffins  or  Popovers. 

It  makes  a  great  difference  whether  any 
dish  or  product  of  skill  is  the  present 
fashion  or  not.  We  have  all  heard  of 
somebody's  popovers  and  come  across 
remarks  in  the  farmers'  papers  about 
somebody  else's  popovers  that  wouldn't 
I)op,  without  wanting  any  in  ours  par- 
ticularly. So  when  I  saw  that  Mary  Jane, 
at  Cedar  Point  Cottage,  on  Nipantuck 
Island  had  a  stove-full  of  very  fine  ones 
ready  for  supper  I  admired  them,  and 
told  her  they  were  splendid  and  she  ought 
to  be  proud  that  she  could  make  them 
(as  indeed  she  was)  without  yet  caring  to 
get  the  receipt  for  my  books;  having  so 
many  good  yeast-raised  fancy  breads  al- 
ready; and,  besides,  I  had  heard  Mrs. 
Trngee  condemn  popovers  on  account  of 
theu-  using  up  her  eggs  too  last  and  not 
being  very  good  eating  anyhow. 

"But  that  isn't  what  we  call  'em,"  said 
Ma^  Janes,  "them's  flannel  rolls." 

They  are  popovers,  Mary  Jane,"  I 
persisted;  "did  you  never  hear  of  pop- 
overs,  and  popovers  that  wouldn't  pop?" 

;*The  baker  at  the  Nipantuck  House 
called  em  flannel  rolls,"  said  she,  "and 
1  guess  he  knew  and  he  brought  me  the 
receipt  before  he  went  away."  She  heaved 
a  little  sigh  and  turned  away  as  if  there 
was  nothing  more  to  be  said  on  that 
question. 

Afterwards,  upon  the  very  voluminous 
breakfast  and  supper  bills  of  fare  of  a 
very  large  summer  hotel  I  found  printed 
."Kaaterskill  Flannel  Rolls,"and  in  think- 
mg  over  what  they  might  be,  naturallv 
reverted  to  that  stove-full  of  "flannel  rolls^' 
on  Nipantuck  Island,  and  learning  almost 
immediately  that  the  Grand  Pacific  was 
serving  them  as  "mufiins,"  the  Palmer 
House  as  "German  puffs"  and  the  Mat- 
teson  as  "flannel  rolls,"  I  began  to  feel 
like  a  collector  of  coins,  who  has  heard  of 
a  date  that  is  not  in  his  collection,  or  Uke 
one  of  those  Dutch  tulip  fanciers  when 
they  heard  of  a  new  color,  and  startedout 
to  catch  up  with  the  procession.  I  soon 
overtook  my  friend  the  steward  of  the 
Matteson  who,  for  the  good  of  the  pubUc 
handed  me  this:  take 

a  eggs. 

2  cups  milk— a  pint. 


2  cups  flour — lo  ounces. 

Salt,  a  small  teaspoon. 
^  Break  the  eggs  into  a  bowl;  beat  them 
light  and  keep  adding  the  milk  to  them 
gradually  while  your  are  beating.  That 
takes  about  five  minutes.  Add  the  salt. 
When  all  the  milk  is  in  put  in  the  flour, 
all  at  once,  and  beat  it  smooth,  like 
cream.  Butter  the  inside  of  six  coffee 
cups,  divide  the  batter  into  them  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about  half  an 
hour. 

It  is  to  be  observed  there  is  no  powder 
nor  raising  of  any  kind  in  them  and  no 
butter,  yet  they  rise  high  above  the  tops 
of  the  cups  and  are  hollow  inside  when 
done.  They  are  not  perfect  if  jnade  with 
skimmed  milk.  When  they  collapse  in 
the  cups  and  come  out  tough  and  heavy 
it  is  owing  to  the  baking,  the  stove  being 
not  hot  enough  on  the  bottom,  or,  pos- 
sibly not  havmg  been  thoroughly  beaten. 
I  have  made  large  batches  and  baked 
so;ne  for  early  breakfast  and  beaten  the 
same  batter  again  and  baked  it  two  hours 
later  and  found  the  last  to  be  as  good  as 
the  first. 

Cost,  6  cents.  But  the  cups  are  not 
the  best  for  a  number,  holding  too  much. 
There  are  deep  gem  pans  shaped  like 
small  tumblers  that  suit  better  to  bake  in. 
These  are  a  pleasing  kind  of  bread  to 
make,  their  remarkable  lightness  making 
them  always  something  of  a  marvel. 


Breakfast. 


Crackec 


bracked  wheat  mush  (2  cups  raw.  % 
cents.)  ^ 

Beefsteak  (14  orders,  i^  lbs,  and  but- 
ter, 25  cents.) 

Breakfast  bacon  (6  orders,  8  ozs,  7 
cents.)  ' 

Calf's  liver  broiled  (5  orders,  7  cents.) 

Potatoes  (4  cents.) 

Plain  rolls  (30,  10  cents.) 

Com  bread  (without  eggs.  No.  626;  12 
orders,  5  cents.) 

Batter  cakes  (cheapest  yeast-raised.  No. 
267;  3pts,  7  cents.) 

Syrup  (common,  i  pt,  7  cents.) 

Butter  15,  milk,  cream  30,  coffee,  tea. 
sugar  12. 

Total,  $1  3a;  25  persons;  5K  cents  a. 
plate. 


5S 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


624— Plain  Rolls. 

For  30  rolls  dissolve  i  cent's  worth  of 
yeast  in  2  cups  of  milk  or  water,  warm 
but  not  hot,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  stir  in  the  flour  enough  to  make 
dough  (2  lbs,  6  cents.)  It  is  just  as  good 
made  up  in  dough  at  first  as  if  a  sponge 
was  set,  (that  is,  making  a  soft-batter  first, 
and  working  it  up  into  dough  afterwards,) 
the  part  that  makes  the  most  difference 
in  quality,  is  the  proper  kneading  of  the 
dough  which  should  be  as  for  coffee 
cakes,  No.  262.  If  made  up  over  night, 
the  dough  will  be  light  in  the  mommg. 
Knead  it  well,  make  up  in  roimd  rolls, 
touch  between  each  one  with  a  brush 
dipped  in  melted  butter  to  cause  them  to 
separate  easily  when  done.  Rise  an  hour 
and  bake. 

The  rolls  will  have  a  thin  and  soft  crust 
and  will  be  much  better  looking  if  they 
are  brushed  over  the  tops  with  a  very  lit- 
tle lard  or  butter  when  they  are  first 
placed  in  the  pan.  It  takes  away  the 
rough  and  floury  appeaiance  of  common 
bread. 


625~Plain  Bread. 


The  same  as  plain  rolls  preceding. 
That  quantity,  makes  2  loaves.  A  par- 
ticularly sweet  home  made  Vienna  bread 
is  made  by  giving  the  bread  only  one 
rising:  mixmg  with  milk,  compressed 
yeast  and  salt  at,  say,  3  in  the  afternoon, 
making  up  into  loaves  at  6  and  puttmg  m 
the  oven  almost  as  soon,  or  in  15  or  20 
minutes.  Brush  over  with  milk  after 
baking. 

626— Corn  Bread  without  Eggs. 

It  is  as  light  and  soft  and  smooth- 
crusted  as  wheat  bread. 

i^  cups  com  meal. 

54  cup  flour. 

I  tablespoon  sugar. 

5^  teaspoon  soda ;  same  of  salt. 

4  tablespoons  melted  butter  or  lard. 

Sour  milk  or  buttermilk  enough  to  mix 
it  up  about  as  thin  as  batter  cakes. 

Beat  up  well  with  the  spoon.  Bake  it 
in  a  shallow  pan.  -  Have  the  pan  hot  and 
greased  before  pouring  it  in. 


Baking  powder  and  sweet  milk  can  be 
used  as  well. 

The  same  can  be  raised  with  yeast. 
Makes  12  to  16  orders ;  costs  about  5  cents. 

627— Yeast    Kaised     Batter     Cakes 
Without  Eggs. 

3  cups  flour. 

2  cups  warm  water. 

y2  cup  yeast— or  i  cent's  -worth-com- 
pressed. 

I  tablespoon  melted  lard. 

Same  of  synjpr— (to  make  them  brown 
easily.) 

J4  teaspoon  salt. 

Mix  ail  the  ingredients  together  like 
setting  sponge  for  bread — with  very  cold 
water  if  made  over  night  for  breakfast, 
or  else  6  hoturs  before  the  meal  with  warm. 
Beat  thoroughly  both  at  time  of  miTing 
and  just  before  baking. 

Cold  weather  prevails:  "it  rains  and 
the  wind  is  never  weary.  The  'bus  will 
not  go  to  the  trains  to-day.  The  driver  has 
started  with  a  wagon  to  a  distant  town  to 
buy  brick  wherewith  to  build  two  chim- 
neys in  the  cottages  occupied  by  the 
shivering  guests  of  the  house,  that  they 
may  have  fires.  At  present  they  are 
huddled  around  the  dining  room  fire- 
place. Hope  they  have  some  among 
them  "whose  smiles  can  make  a  sum- 
mer," for  we  need  one,  badly. 


Hard  Times  Dinner. 


But  it  was  all  good,  and  nobody  would 
ever  suspect  that  there  was  a  paucity  of 
material  or  omission  of  the  usual  in- 
gredients. 

Pearl  barley  soup  (No.  628 ;  5  qts,  20 
cents.) 

Roast  beef  (rib  ends,  15^  lbs,  15  cents.) 

Roast  lamb  (brisket,  shoulder,  left 
when  ribs  were  taken  for  chops;  5  lbs, 
50  cents.) 

Macaroni  and  cheese  (without  eggs  or 
butter;  No.  629;  9  cents.) 

Potatoes  in  cream  sauce  (5  cents.) 

Tomatoes  (i  can,  15  cents.) 

Com  li  can,  15  cents.) 

Pumpkin  pie  (No.  630 ;  without  eggs  or 
butter;  3  IzigQ;  24  cuts,  24  cents.) 


SAN  PRANCISCO  SOTEX.  GAZETTES 


Si 


nee 


pudding  (No.  631, 
pints,  14  cents;  sauce 


Plain  boiled 
without  eggs;  3 
4—18  cents.) 

Coffee  10.  tea  3,  milk  4  qts,  12,  cream 
I  qt,  io,  butter  average  15,  bread  6, 
cheese  k. 

Total,  $242;  24  persons;  10  cents  a 
plate. 

628— Pearl  Barley  Soup. 

4  quarts  soup  stock. 
I  quart  milk. 

5  tablespoons  barley. 

I  cupful  minced  vegetables. 

I  ounce  butter. 

Salt ;  cayenne. 

It  is  a  white  soup  suitable  to 'be  made 
with  mutton  or  lamb.  To  obtain  the  stock 
boil  any  spare  pieces  of  meat  in  5  quarts 
of  water  for  2  hours.  Put  in  a  small  tur- 
nip, onion  and  carrot,  and  stalk  of  celery. 
Strain,  skim,  add  the  milk.  Boil  the 
barley  separately.  A  teaspoonful  to  each 
quart  is  enough.  Pour  off  the  bluish 
barley  water  and  put  the  barley  in  the 
soup.  Mince  a  few  spoonfuls  of  differ- 
ent colored  vegetables,  such  as  string 
beans,  young  carrots,  white  turnips,  green 
onions,  add  them  to  the  soup  and  boil 
half  an  hour.  Skim  while  boiling.  Sea- 
son and  add  butter. 


629^Macaroni  and   Cheese 
Eggs, 


without 


*•!  never  could  understand,^  safidlfc. 
Tingee,  one  day,  "how  the  Italians  can 
be  so  poor,  as  the  papers  say  they  are, 
and  yet  eat  so  much  macaroni  as  the  pa- 
pers tell  us  they  do:  I  should  think  it 
would  break  them  up  buying  eggs  to  cook 
it  with.  But  then,"  she  added  reflectively, 
"sometimes  the  papers  say  things  that 
ain't  so.  Do  you  cook  macaroni  some- 
times?" 

"Yes  ma'am,  quite  often.** 

"Do  you  put  cheese  in  it?* 

"Yes." 

"And  eggs?" 

"Yes :  and  butter  tend  milk  and  toma- 
toes and  gravy  and  oysters  and  chicken 
and  many  more  things." 

"Ah;  I  had  a  girl  once  who  wanted  to 
make  a  dish  of  macaroni  and  I  kept  lay- 


ing off  to  get  the  things  together,  but, 
somehow,  I  never  did.  Do  you  know, 
a  fHend  of  mine  told  me  she  once  knew 
a  hotel  cook  who  never  made  a  dish  of 
macaroni  without  putting  eight  eggs  in  it ! 
Do  you  think  that  v/as  true?" 

"Yes,  ma'am ;  and  I  have  no  doubt  but 
that  there  are  hotel  cooks  who  will  even 
use  as  many  as  twelve,  or  thirteen." 

Then  Mrs.  Tingee  said,  "O,  myl" 

It  is  a  singular  trait  in  this  lady  that 
she  never  seems  to  regard  the  difierence 
between  a  dish  for  two  hundred  people 
and  a  dish  for  two  or  three;  all  she  sees 
is  the  eight  eggs  gone  at  one  fell  swoop. 

I  venture  the  opinion  that  the  Italians 
eat  macaroni  alone  or  in  soup  or  gravy 
without  much  thought  of  cheese  and 
without  any  thought  of  eggs,  and  I  doubt 
very  much  whether  many  01  them  would 
touch  the  dry  and  heavy  cake  of  macaroni 
and  cheese  that  is  seen  at  many  hotel 
tables  in  this  country.  There  is  a  good 
example  of  an  Italian  way  of  preparing 
macaroni,  spaghetti,  lassagnes,  ndilim 
and  other  such  pastes  at  our  No.  65; 
which  requires  neither  eggs  nor  butter, 
and  here  is  another  just  as  good : 

5^  pound  macaroni. 

2  or  3  ounces  cheese— or  a  grated  cup- 
ful. 

3  or  4  basting  spoonfuls  of  fat  from  the 
roasting  meat. 

2  cups  water  or  milk. 

2  spoonfuls  flour  thickening. 

A  handful  of  crushed  crackers. 

•Boil  the  macraoni  20  minutes,  then 
pour  off  the  water.  Put  in  the  cheese  and 
other  ingredients  and  salt ;  turn  it  into  a 
2-quart  pan.  strew  the  crushed  crackers 
on  top  and  bake  brown. 

The  flour  thickening  added  is  to  form 
a  sort  of  sauce  in  it,  but  not  enough  to 
cake  to  the  macaroni  together.  When 
there  is  a  suitable  sauce  or  gravy  ready  at 
hand  it  can  be  used  to  good  advantage 
in  that  way.  The  strained  gravy  firom  a 
chicken  stew,  for  example.  Cost,  9  or  zo 
cents  for  12  dishes. 


63l)-*-Piifnpkin  or  Squasb  Pie  witbout 
Eggs. 

The  bakery  pumpkin  pie;  the  pie  of 

the  lunch  houses  and  shops.  « 

I  can  of  pumpkin,  or  a  quart  fresh 


57 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


cooked  (which  is  cheaper.) 

1  cup  sugar. 

2  cups  miik. 

3  basting  spoonfuls  flour-and-water 
thickening 

I  teaspoon  each  ground  ginger  and 
cinnamon. 

Mash  the  pumpkin  through  a  colan- 
der, stir  in  the  other  ingredients.  It 
makes  3  pints,  enough  to  fill  3  deep  pie 
plates  lined  with  thin  crusts  of  common 
short  paste.  Pumpkin  14,  sugar  4,  milk, 
spice  and  flour  2,  crusts  4—24  cents  or  8 
cents  each. 


631— Boiled    Rice^    Pudding   without 
Eggs. 

I  cup  nee. 

4  cups  milk. 

%  cup  sugar. 

butter  size  of  an  egg. 

Wash  the  rice  free  from  dust  and  cook 
it  with  the  milk  in  a  farina  kettle  or  double 
kettle.  If  you  have  none  put  the  sugar 
and  rice  both  into  the  milk  and  let  boil 
in  a  saucepan  at  the  back  of  the  stove 
with  the  steam  shut  in.  Never  stir  it 
while  cooking  and  it  will  not  burn.  When 
done  stir  in  the  buiter.  Serve  in  small 
pudding  saucers  with  sauce  poured  over. 
For  the  sauce,  boil  J4  cup  su|;ar  and  piece 
of  lemon,  nutmeg  or  stick  cmnamon  in  2 
cups  water;  thicken  slightly,  add  small 
piece  of  butter  and  simmer  until  it  is  like 
jelly 


French  fried  potatoes  (6  cents.) 
German  puffs  (No.  623;  30;  23  cents.) 
Plain  rolls  (few  from  breakfast.) 
Wild  raspberries  (2  qts,  10  cents.) 
White  cake  (without  eggs.  No.  632 ;  15 

cents.) 
Cream  30,  sugar  10,  milk  12,  butter, 

bread  20,  coffee,  tea  12. 
Total,  $1  97;  27  persons;  7^^  cents  a 

plate. 


632~White  Calo  without  Eggs. 

1  small  cup  sugar— 6  ounces. 
y%  cup  butter— 4  ounces. 

2  small  cups  milk — ^little  less  than  a 
pint. 

2  heaped  teaspoons  baking  powder, 
i     5  cups  flour— I  ^  pounds. 

Warm  the  buiter  and  stir  it  and  the 
sugar  together  until  well  mixed,  then  add 
the  nulk  and  a  little  flavoring  of  nutmeg, 
lemon,  vanilla  or  cinnamon. 

Mix  the  powder  in  the  flour,  stir  all 
together.  It  makes  a  stiff  batter.  The 
more  it  is  beaten  up  with  the  spoon  the 
better  the  cake. 

To  make  it  as  white  as  if  made  with 
white  of  eggs,  one  cup  of  the  milk  used 
should  be  sour,  or  else  add  a  small  tea- 
spoon of  cream  tartar — tlje  same  thing 
that  makes  "angel  food  cake"  so  white. 
Brush  the  top  with  milk  before  baking. 


Two  strangers  arrived  on  the  five  o'clock 
train.  Just  the  luck.  The  only  time  the 
'bus  failed  to  go  to  the  train  somebody 
came.  But  thev  got  a  livery  ri^  and  came 
over.    Some  body  says  they  are  real  dukes. 


Later :  They  are  real  Dukes.  Not  the 
European  article,  but  members  of  the 
fiirm  of  Duke  and  Diamond,  the  well- 
known  advertising  agents,  of  Lakeport. 


Supper* 

Cracked  wheat  (3  cents.) 
Beefsteak  (8  orders,  i^  lbs,  20  cents.) 
Ham  and  eggs  (8  orders,  36  cents.) 
Cold  lamb  (i  lb,  from  dinner,  charged.) 


633— White   Layer    Cakes 
£ggs. 


wilhout 


Bake  the  white  cake  of  the  preceding 
receipt  in  jelly  cake  pans;  spread  with 
jelly  when  done;  place  two  or  three  to- 
gether and  frost  over  the  top.  Should  be 
very  thin  in  the  cake  pans  or  they  rise  too 
hi£:h  to  make  handsome  layers. 


634 — Chocolate  Layer  Cakes  without 
Eggs. 


Put  half  cup  sugar  over  the  fire  to  boil 
with  a  lars:e  spoonful  of  water  and  add  to 
it  two  ounces  of  chocolate.  When  melted 
use  instead  of  jelly  as  in  the  preceding 
receipt. 


SAN  liRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


58 


635— Cake   Frosting    without    Eggs. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  Lave  white  of 
eggs  to  make  cake  icing  or  frosting.  A 
better  kind  of  frosting  that  will  not  break 
when  the  cake  is  sliced,  is  made  of  either 
dissolved  gelatine  or  powdered  gum 
arable.  1  hey  need  only  be  dissolved  in 
boiling  water  to  make  a  mucilage  like  the 
common  bottle  mucilage  in  thickness, 
then  beat  up  sugar  in  it  just  the  same  as 
with  white  of  eggs.  It  is  quicker  to  make 
than  the  egg  kind  and  is  extremely  white. 
If  too  thick  on  the  cakes,  set  them  in  a 
warm  place  and  this  kind  of  frosting  will 
run  down  smooth  and  ^Igssy.  There  is  a 
powdered  kind  of  gelatine  called  granu- 
lated, that  is  very  good  for  this  purpose. 

Breakfast. 

July  IS- 

Cold  night.  Rolls  poor;  no  place  in 
summer  kitchen  to  keep  dough  warm. 
Cold  enough  for  buckwheat  cakes— wish 
we  had  some.  Good  time  for  mince  pies 
— make  sausag  anyhow. 

Oatmeal  {3  cents.) 

Beefsteak  (7  orders,  i  lb,  and  butter,  15 
cents.) 

Breakfast  bacon  (5  orders,  8  oz  ross, 
7  cents.)  s,  g 

Crepinettes  de  veau  (No.  636 ;  12  orders, 
i>^  lbs,  one-third  raw  meat,  7  cents.) 

Potatoes  baked  and  French  fried  (9 
cents.) 

French  rolls  {18;  8  cents.) 

Com  bread  (fine,  with  2  cups  meal,  2 
eggs,  10  ozs,  butter,  etc.;  No.  599;  12 
cents.) 

Hatter  cakes  (i  qt,  7  cents.) 

Butter  20,  syrup  8,  milk  12,  cream  20, 
coffee,  tea,  sugar  17,  bread  4. 

Total,  $1  49;  27  persons;  sJ^  cents,  a 
plate. 


are  nice  when  fresh  cooked  and  hot.  Serve 
without  sauce  or  gravy,  but  garnish  with 
parsley  or  seed-bed  celery. 


636— Crepinettes,    or    Sausages    of 
bocked  Meat. 

Take  two-thirds  cold  cooked  meat 
and  one-third  raw  meat  with  some  fat 
upon  it,  chop  it  into  sausage  meat,  season 
with  powered  sage,  some  salt  and  plenty 
of  black  pspper.  Make  up  in  little  cakes 
as  with  pork  sausage  and  fry  brown  on 
both  sides.  Cook  only  as  wanted.    They 


Dinner. 

Dinner  ordered  an  hour  earlier.  Two 
lady  boarders  arrived.  The  firm  of 
Duke  and  Diamond  intend  to  make 
much  of  their  vacation  from  city  business 
and  will  take  a  sail  with  all  the  ladies  on 
board  around  the  lake.  Looks  like  an 
exploration :  Perhaps  there  is  business 
m  It.  It  may  be  there  is  to  be  no  more 
dependence  upon  the  patronage  of  friends 
and  acquaintances,  but  an  advertisement 
to  the  great  pleasure-seeking  public  of 
the  claims  of  this  plaoe.  However,  the 
dinner  will  not  be  much  regarded  and 
must  be  short  and  easy. 

Consomme  jardiniere  (^  qts,  25  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (2  ribs,  3  lbs  net  40  cents.) 

Spring  lamb  (5  lbs  50  cents.) 

Summer  beets  in  sauce  (10  cents.) 

String  beans  (garden  10  cents.) 

Com  (i  can  15  cents.) 

Potatoes  browned,  mashed  (9  cents.) 

Tomatoes  (i  can,  15  cents.) 

Raspberry  pie  (open ;  puff  paste ;  3,  30 
cents.) 

Boiled  com  starch  pudding  (No.  639 ; 
pudding  9,  sauce  4, — 13  cents.) 

Vaniila  cup  custard  (No.  136  treble,  22 
cents.) 

Spice  cake  (without  eggs.  No.  640 ;  frost- 
ed, 21  cents.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers,  condi- 
ments, (average  count,  27  cents.) 

Butter,  bread,  coffee,  tea,  milk  , cream, 
63  cents. 

Total,  $3  50;  29  persons;  12  cents  a 
plate. 


637— Consomm2  Jardiniere. 


The  words  signify  a  clear  soup  with 
vegetables.  See  No.  139.  When  the 
materials  recommended  are  not  avail- 
able make  as  rich  a  broth  as  can  be  with 
the  shoulder  bone  of  the  beef  roast  and  the 
"cap"  or  coarse  meat  that  is  upon  it 
and  a  veal  shank.  Strain,  and  remove 
all  grease. 

Cut  string  beans  in  little  diamonds, 
take  an  equal  quantity  of  green  peas,, 
young  carrots  and  tumips  cut  to  the  same 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


size;  also  two  green  onions,  a  summer 
squash  and  a  small  green  cucumber;  or 
whatever  of  the  kindcan  be  obtained,  all 
cut  small,  and  about  three  cupfuls  in  all 
to  five  quarts.  Boil  the  vegetables  a  few 
minuted  in  water.  Season  the  consomme 
with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  add  two 
tablespoons  of  walnut  catsup.  Drain  off 
the  water  from  the  vegetables  and  put 
them  in'.o  the  consomme.  A  heapmg 
teaspoonful  of  starch  mav  be  used  to 
thicken  it  slightly.  Let  it  Doil  until  clear 
again. 


638— Beets  in  Sauce. 

Boil  blood  beets  in  plenty  of  water  from 
one  to  two  hours.  Try  with  a  fork.  Put 
them  into  cold  water  and  rub  off  the  skki. 
Cut  in  quarters  or  suitable  pieces  into  a 
saucepan,  and  fill  up  with  three  parts  I 
water  and  one  part  vinegar.  Boil,  add 
salt,  a  little  butter,  and  flour  thickening. 


2  cups  milk — a  pint. 

2  heaped  teaspoons  baking  powder. 

5  cups  flour— 1 1^  pounds. 

2  teaspoons  ground  cinnamon. 

I  teaspoon  each  of  cloves  and  allspice. 

Warm  the  butter;  stir  up  the  sugar  and 
milk.  Put  the  powder  and  spices  in  the 
flour,  mk  all  and  beat  up  well.  Bake  in 
shallow  tins  and  frost  over  when  done» 
Before  baking  brush  over  the  top  of  each 
cake  with  milk;  it  glazes  them,  and 
makes  smooth  crust. 


639- Boiled    Corn    Starch 
without  Eggs. 


Pudding 


4  cups  milk — a  quart. 

2  heaping  tablespoons  sugar. 

4  do  com  starch — 4  ounces  good 
weight. 

I  ounce  butter — small  egg  size. 

I  yolk  to  color  it  if  you  like. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it. 

Mbc  the  starch  with  a  little  cold  milk, 
thin  it  with  some  hot  out  of  the  kettle,pour 
it  quickly  into  the  boiling  milk  ancf  stir 
while  it  is  thickening,  which  it  does  im- 
mediately. 

Throw  in  the  butter  and  beat  up,  then 
add  the  yolk  of  egg  thinned  with  milk, 
and  take  it  from  the  fire.  An  extremely 
easy  and  simple  pudding  and  excellent. 
Must  not  be  kept  too  hot  after  cooking 
as  that  causes  it  to  turn  thin.  Serve  with 
sauce. 


640— Spice  Cake  without  Eggs. 

A  great  favorite :  Looks  like  chocolate 
cake.  Would  not  be  any  better  if  made 
with  eggs. 

I  small  cup  sugar — 6  ounces. 

J4  cup  buttei  -4  ounces. 


641— A  Pasfry  and  Store  Room  Neces- 
sary. 

It  took  about  two  weeks  at  this  house 
to  get  a  little  room  fixed  up  with  a  few 
shelves  to  keep  certain  kinds  of  stores  upon 
and  a  table  m  the  same  room  for  the 
bread-making  pastry,  although  I  had 
made  temporary  arrangements  of  the  kind 
on  the  very  first  day,  being  allowed  to 
gently  pitch  a  lounge  and  rocking  chair 
out  of  the  window  of  a  little  room  adjoin- 
ing the  kitchen  for  the  purpose,  li  one 
person  with  very  little  help  is  going  to  get 
up  a  great  number  and  succession  of 
dishes  week  after  week  and  always  "get 
there"  as  soon  as  the  clock  does,  give 
every  guest  their  orders  according  to  their 
taste,  keep  nobody  waiting  and  never 
omit  to  prepare  every  sauce,  stuffing, 
ornament  and  trimmings  which  the  bill 
of  fare  promises,  the  track  must  be 
cleared  of  obstructions  and  every  thing 
placed  so  that  it  can  be  picked  up  in 
passing  whenever  it  is  wanted.  Then  it 
IS  all  easy,  and,  as  somebody  expressed  it 
here  yesterday,  "it  is  fun  to  cook."  But 
to  have  things  as  they  had  them  here 
last  year  would  make  life  a  burden  and 
take  twice  as  many  hands  to  prepare 
meals  of  half  the  dimensions  that  we  ex- 
pect to  serve;  with  the  meats  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  house,  the  sugar  at  the  top, 
the  oatmeal  across  the  way,  the  vegeta- 
bles down  the  alley,  the  baking  powder 
locked  up  in  a  cupboard  and '  the  keys 
running  around  somewhere  in  some- 
body's pocket;  the  flour  in  a  comer  of 
the  kitchen  and  all  the  pastry  table  and 
work  place  being  a  board  on  a  barrel. 
These  are  the  misarran^ements  which 
make  Mary  Jane  seem  so  inefficient,  and 
she  herself  does  not  know  what  is  the 
matcerthat  she  cannot  get  along  with- 


SAN  JFRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


to 


out  calling  upon  the  whole  household  to 
drop  their  work  and  come  and  help  her 
through.  I  am  under  the  impression  that 
a  vast  number  of  fine  houses  both  public 
and  private  want  a  shaking  up  in  theh: 
culinary  departments  and  all  the  loose 
ends  bringing  together  where  hands  can 
be  laid  upon  them  without  waste  of  time, 
and  want  something  better  in  the  way  of 
a  work  table  for  the  cook  than  a  mere 
board  on  a  barrel. 


642— A  Board  on  a  Barrel. 

Which  reminds  me  that  it  is  better  to 
be  bom  lucky  than  rich.  How  many 
lucky  rascals  there  are  wherever  there  is 
a  good  hotel,  not  really  deserving  more 
than  stale  bread  and  butter,  who  manage 
to  get  either  by  audacity,  favoritism  or 
some  petty  terrorism  of  influencing  trade 
a  living  that  a  king  might  envy,  the  first, 
best  and  dearest  of  everything  that  comes 
to  market;  and  how  many  deserving- but 
unlucky  rich  people  there  are  in  pnvate 
homes  who  never  know  what  it  is  to  have  a 
really  good  meal.  One  such  family  living 
in  a  small  city  in  the  Delectable  Moun- 
tains, on  a  certain  occasion  employed  me 
to  get  up  a  "Mother  Hubbard  party" 
supper  for  fifty. 

These  good  people  had  an  income  from 
a  fortune  of  two  hundred  thousand  dol- 
lars; they  were  amiable,  generous  to  an 
extreme ;  the  lady  was  sunshine  itself  in 
spite  of  poor  meals;  they  deserved  really, 
to  live  in  a  good  hotel  and  enjoy  the  best 
of  cookery  and  yet  in  fact  they  had  noth- 
ing but  Mary  Jane  and  a  kitchen,  that 
was  little  more  than  a  board  on  a  barrel. 
As  for  my  own  three  days'  work  that  did 
not  concern  me,  for  I  had  a  separate  room 
and  everything  needful,  but  then  I  could 
see  the  gentleman  was  not  happy.     He 
was  intended  by  nature  to  be  a  man  of  a 
large  and  portly  presence ;  the  frame  was 
broad,  but  there  was  not  much  upon  it ; 
his  vest  was  not  filled  out  and  could  not 
be  with  such  poor  cooking  as  a  board  on 
a  barrel  affords.    I  could  not  see  withouc 
some  concern  their  Mary  Jane  trying  to 
broil  large  and  thick  beelsteaks  over  the 
holes  of  a  stove  filled  with  soft  coal,  doing 
the  same  thing  three  times  each  day  and 
sending  them  in  half  cooked,  halt  raw, 
blackened  with  coal  smoke,  dirty,    Car- 
lot  croquettes  she  tried  to  make  and  they 


melted   down    in   the  grease,   (not  hot 
enough)  and  were  sent  in  that  way,  soft 
and  disgusting  and  a  dozen  such  blunders 
or  more  I  should  have  liked  to  correct  but 
the  contract  would  have  been  too  large, 
and,  besides,  there  was  no  convenience. 
When  their  Mary  Jane  made^  bread  she 
mixed  up  a  pan  of  dough,  using  for  her 
table  a  board  set  on  top  of  the  oarrel  of 
flour.     When  she  wanted  a  handful  of 
flour  she  had  to  set  the  pan  over  on  the 
dish  sink  and  remove  the  board,  and  then 
set  them  back  again— and  it  was  a  fine 
painted,  grained  and  ornamented  kitchen 
too — and^^when  she  made  rolls  she  could 
not  knead  the  dough,  but  seized  a  hand- 
ful, squeezed  it  and  pinched  off  the  little 
dumpling  shape  that  rose  up  out  of  her 
fist.    Well,  they  were  not  very  bad  rolls, 
and  not  very  good ;  just  the  commonest 
of  the  common  although  the  people  were 
rich  and  might  as  well  have  had  the 
finest;  and  neither  Mary  Jane  nor  I  could 
roll  out  the  pastry  on  a  board  on  a  barrel 
that  tipped  over. 

We  may  take  Mr.  Toots'  view  of  such 
a  matter  saying,  "it's  of  no  consequence," 
for  health  and  strength  may  be  kept  up 
on  very  plain  food,  if  one  will  be  an  as- 
cetic ana  philosopher,  but  that  is  what  very 
few  will  be.  in  this  family  were  four 
daughters,  young  ladies  for  whose  pleasure 
this  party  was  given,  and  the  mischief  ol 
the  situation  is,  that  having  grown  up  with 
nothing  better  before  their  eyes  they  will 
go  out  to  their  own  housekeeping  think- 
ing that  a  board  on  a  barrel  is  all  that  is 
needed  to  set  up  a  kitchen,  and  that  the 
miserable  ways  of  Mary  Jane  which 
they  have  seen  are  the  ways  they  must 
remember  and  carry  on  as  all  that  is 
necessary  to  know  about  cooking. 

Finding  these  good  people  inclined  to 
liberality  in  the  matter  of  expenditure, 
when  sending  for  some  Liebig's  extract 
ot  meat,  wherewith  to  make  their  bouillon 
of  extra  fineness,  I  sent  lor  twice  as  much 
as  was  needed  that  some  might  remain  to 
give  them  pleasure  some  other  day ;  the 
same  by  the  finest  salad  oil,  the  walnut 
catsup  to  give  a  new  zest  to  their  soups ; 
mushroom  catsup  to  transform  their 
chicken  stews  and  pies;  genuine  table 
sauces  to  help  ameliorate  those  dreadful 
beefsteaks;  some  kirchwasser  for  the 
ladies'  punch ;  genuine  maraschino  to  im- 
plant a  new  sensation  for  them  in  the' 
,  creams  and  jellies;  a  few  truffles  to  cause 


6i 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


them  to  ask  questions ;  Camembert  cheese 
in  tiny  round  boxes;  Roquefort  cheese 
in  larger  bulk;  biscuits  ot  the  superfine 
sorts  and  choice  fruits,  all  in  excess  of 
the  needs  of  the  one  night.  After  the 
supper  was  over  I  had  the  satisfaction  of 
seeing  the  remainders  of  the  goods^  and 
sweets  with  the  unwonted  flavors  spirited 
away  to  secure  hiding  places  by  fairy 
fingers,  and  then  had  to  leave  these  poor 
two-hundred-thousand-dollar  people  to 
the  maladministrations  of  Mary  Jane 
with  her  board  on  a  barrel;  but  they 
seemed  to  deserve  a  better  fate. 


Supper. 

Cracked  wheat  (2  cups,  4  cents.) 

Beefsteak  (7  orders,  i  lb,  and  biAter, 
18  cents.) 

Lamb  chops  (11  orders,  ij^  lbs,  18 
cents.) 

Chipped  beef  in  cream  (3  orders,  3 
cents.) 

Cold  meats  (6  orders,  12  ozs,  net, 
charged  dinner.) 

Potatoes  French  fried  and  baked  (6 
cents.) 

Sally  Lunn(2o  cents.) 

Batter  cakes  (i  qt,  8  cents.) 

Green  gages  in  syrup  (i  can,  25  cents.) 

Cake  and  cookies  (without  eggs,  15 
cents.) 

Buttermilk,  cream,  milk  36,  bread  6, 
syrup  6,  butter  15,  coffee,  tea,  sugar  16. 

Total,  $1  96;  27  persons;  7}^  cents  a 
plate. 

643— Chipped  Beef  in  Cream. 

Shave  the  dried  beef  extremely  thin 
with  a  plane  or  sharp  knife,  and  parboil 
it  m  water. 

While  it  is  in  preparation,  make  a  cup- 
ful ot  cream  sauce ;  beat  in  a  small  lump 
of  butter  additional,  then  drain  the  water 
from  the  beef  and  pour  the  sj»nce  over  it 
instead. 


644— Sally  Lunn  Tea  Cakes. 


If  you  are  making  rolls  or  bread  daily, 
for  the  evening  meal  it  will  be  easy  to 
change  the  dough  into  sally  lunn.  Make 
up  the  dough  at,  say,  11  o'clock,  the  same 
as  at  No.  532  and  let  it  rise  until  3.  Then 
take  nearly  all,  or  2}^  pounds,  or  .«;  or  6 


cups  of  the  dough. 

Yz  cup  butter,  melted. 

3  tablespoons  sugar 

2  eggs  and  2  yolks. 

^  cup  warm  milk. 

2  cups  .lour. 

Work  them  all  together  and  beat  up 
very  thoroughly.  It  is  like  mufiin  dougn 
or  fritters,  too  soft  to  handle. 

Let  rise  until  5.  Beat  again.  Divide 
it  in  4  or  5  pie  pans  previously  buttered 
and  nse  Half  an  hour,  then  bake  and  have 
them  hot  and  ready  at  6.  Cut  like  pieces 
of  pie  carefully  with  a  sharp  kniie  not 
to  crush  it.  Send  it  in  instead  of  rolls. 
Makes  24  to  28  cuis;  costs  20  or  21  cents. 


645— Cookies  without  Eggs. 

1  small  cup  sugar — 6  ounces. 
y2  cup  butter — 4  ounces. 

2  small  cups  milk — little  less  than  a 
pint. 

3  heaped  up  teaspoons  baking  powder. 
Flour    to  make    soft    dough — ^about 

6  cups. 

Warm  the  butter  and  mix  it  and  the 
sugar  together  and  then  the  milk  (water 
will  do.)  Mix  the  powder  in  the  flour, 
stu-  all  together.  Roll  out  very  thin. 
Shake  some  granulated  sugar  over  the 
sheet  of  dough,  cut  out  and  bake  well 
done.  Costs  17  or  18  cents  for  about  100 
cookies. 


Breakfast. 


July  16. 

Fresh  raspberries  (2 

Oatmeal  (2  cents.) 

Beefsteak  (8  orders, 
18  cents.) 

Mutton  chops  (n  orders,  ij4  lbs, 
cents.) 

Ham  (6  orders,   12   ozs,  equal  i 
gross,  15  cents.) 

Omelets  and  boiled  eggs  (20  eggs, 
cents.) 

Potatoes  German  fried  (5  cents.) 

Com  bread  (without  eggs,  No.  626; 
5  cents.) 

Buttermilk  muflSns  (without  eggs.  No. 
646;  22,  8  cents.) 

Rice  batter  cakes  (10  cents.) 

Milk,  cieam,  buttermilk  36,  coffee,  tea, 
sugar  20,  butter  18,  syrup  8,  bread  6. 

Total,  $2  14;  27  persons;  V/2  cents  a 


qts,  20  cents.) 
I  lb,  and  butter, 
18 

lb, 

25 


SAN  JFRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


62 


plate. 


646— Buttermilk  Muffins  without  Eggs. 


4  cups  flour. 

I  tablespoon  sugar. 

I  teaspoon  salt. 

1  teaspoon  soda,  small. 

2  or  3  tablespoons  melted  butter  or  lard. 
2  cups  butter-milk. 

Mix  all,  beat  up  thoroughly — the  more 
it  is  beaten  the  better  the  mufiSns  will 
be — then  drop  spoonfuls  into  greased 
gem  pans.  Makes  about  22  or  accord- 
ing to  size ;  costs  7  or  8  cents. 


648— Macaroni  Clear  Soup. 


647— Rice  Batter  Cakes. 

2  large  cups  dry  cooked  rice, 
c  large  cup  milk  or  water. 

1  cup  flour. 
'    2  eggs. 

2  tablespoons  baking  powder. 

Mash  the  riv.e  free  from  lumps ;  mix 
all  and  beat  up  well.  Butter  milk  and 
soda  can  be  used  instead  of  baking  pow- 
der, and  mik.  A  small  cup  of  rice  raw 
makes  the  required  amount.  Costs  10 
cents  a  quart,  or  24  cakes. 


Dinner. 

First  bill  of  fare.  , 

Soup — Macaroni  clear  (4  qts,  20  cents.) 

Corned  beef  {i,lb,  10  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (i  rib,  2  lbs,  25  cents.) 

Roast  lamb  (3  lbs,  30  cents.) 

Broiled  Sweetbreads,  maitre  d'hotel 
(No.  651;  Sweetbreads  19,  sauce  5;  24 
cents.) 

.    Green  peas  (garden,  equal  i  can,  sea- 
soned, 20  cents.) 

Com  and  tomatoes  (30  cents.) 

Potatoes  mashed,  browned  (6  cents.) 

Tapioca  pudding  (without  eggs,  No. 
652 ;  and  sauce,  12  cents.) 

VVhite  Mountain  ice  cream  (2  qts,  35 
cents.) 

Chocolate  and  other  cake  (without 
eggs,  20  cents.) 

Cherries,  nut«5,  raisins,  pickles,  cheese 
27. 

Butter,  bread,  coffee,  tea,  milk,  cream 
SO. 

Total,  $3  09;  27  persons;  iij4  cents  a 
plate. 


One  ounce  of  macaroni  or  less  to  a 
quart  is  enough. 

Make  soup  stock  by  boiling  soup 
bones  and  a  bunch  of  vegetables  and 
spoonful  of  tomatoes  in  five  quarts  of 
water.  Strain  through  a  napkin  or  Cne 
seive.  Skim  off  all  the  fat.  Boil  again, 
season,  thicken  slightly  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  starch.  Boil  gently  until  it 
again  becomes  clear  and  skim  well. 
Boil  separately  4  ounces  macaroni  un- 
til half  done  (10  minutes),  drain,  and  as 
It  lies  in  the  colander  cut  it  into  very 
short  pieces  all  of  one  size.  Rinse  it  off 
with  hot  water  to  get  rid  of  crumbs  and 
drop  it  in  the  clear  soup  to  finish  cooking. 
Lamb  should  not  be  used  for  clear  soups 
as  it  makes  a  whitish  stock.  Use  little 
burnt  sugar  to  color  if  necessary. 

649— Tiouble  with  the  Corned   Beef. 


An  old  friend  of  mine,  went  as  steward 
to  open  the  new  and  splendid  Winnipeg- 
away  House  at  Red  Lake  Falls,  and  when 
I  arrived  there  a  week  or  two  after  and 
asked  "how's  everything" he  said,  rather 
sorrowfully  that  everythmg  was  all  right, 
"except — blame  the  luck — !" 

I  thought  he  was  going  to  say  the  drain- 
age or  climate  or  railroad  connections  or 
something  large,  but,  after  all  it  is  the 
small  troubles  that  are  hardest  to  bear- 
he  said  he  couldn't  get  a  bit  of  corned 
beef  fit  to  put  on  the  table,  and  he  had 
all  the  directors  of  the  new  concern  there, 
hawk-eved  and  exacting  to  the  smallest 
particulars;  just  as  is  always  the  case 
whilst  a  new  hotel  is  the  new  toy  of  a 
company. 

They  had  salt  beef  but  it  would  not 
turn  to  that  pink  or  scarlet  color  which 
you  like  to  see — a  streak  of  pink  and  a 
streak  of  fat— upon  a  bed  of  pale  green 
boiled  cabbage  for  your  New  England 
boiled  dinner ;  for  plain  salt  beef  turns 
dark,  almost  black  after  slicing,  and  has 
something  of  the  depressing  effect  upon 
the  diner  of  a  cloudy  day.  It  was  not 
only  their  own  which  they  had  tried  to 
pickle,  but  the  village  butcher's  was 
equally  poor. 

It  is  saltpeter  that  gives  the  required 
color.  They  had  both  employed  salt- 
peter.    They  were  a  good  way  from  a 


^3 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


large  town,  but  both  had  obtained  their 
stores  from  the  same  place.  Told  the 
steward  that  I  thought  I  used  to  know 
that  there  are  two  sorts  of  saltpeter,  but 
it  does  not  make  any  difference  if  you 
make  sure  to  get  the  large  crystals,  size 
of  your  thumb,  look  like  washmg  soda  or 
alum.  That  which  they  had  used  was 
small  like  common  salt.  We  obtained 
the  right  article  the  next  day,  made  new 
brine  according  to  the  following  receipt ; 
dropped  some  beef  in  it  while  it  was  warm 
— almost  hot — and  in  twelve  hours  there- 
after used  some  of  the  thin  pieces  that 
boUed  as  red  as  a  painted  town. 


650— Corned  Beef  Brine. 


6  gallons  water — nearly  3  pailfuls. 

3  to  6  ounces  saltpeter,  in  water. 

I  pint  sugar. 

10  pounds  coarse  salt. 

Boil  the  above  all  together  and  skim 
while  it  is  boiling.  Pour  it  into  two  stone 
jars  or  a  keg  or  barrel.  The  jars  are  best 
m  places  where  there  are  pieces  of  beef 
unsuitable  for  roasting,  to  be  rolled  up 
and  tied  in  shape  and  dropped  in  every 
day,  one  jar  to  receive  the  fresh  additions 
and  the  other  to  use  out  of  that  which  is 
sufficiently  corned. 

For  this  use  the  larger  Quantity  of  salt- 
peter is  needed.  Beef  dropped  in  this 
pickle  will  be  ready  for  use  in  a  week. 

But  when  a  quarter  of  beef  is  to  be  cut 
up  and  put  down  in  brine  to  remain  in  it  | 
a  very  longtime,  3or  4  ounces  of  saltpeter 
is  sufficient.  The  barrel  should  be  kept 
in  a  cool,  dry  cellar.  Put  a  board  on  top 
of  the  meat  and  a  rock  upon  that.  Keep 
covered. 


WhDe  they  are  cooking  soften  4  ounces 
of  butter,  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  add  a  dust  of  cayenne,  a  table- 
spoonful  chopped  parsley  or  other  green 
and  spoonful  of  water.  Serve  the  sweet- 
breads hot  from  the  broiler  with  sauce 
poured  over  and  garnish  of  lemon  and 
parsley  or  seed-bed  celery. 

Anything  cooked  a  la  maitre  d'hotel 
has  a  combination  of  green  herbs  with  an 
acid;  it  may  be  in  butter  or  in  thin  white 
sauce. 


652 — Tapioca  Pudding  without  Eggs, 

Costs  10  or  12  cents  or  i  cent  each 
order. 

1  heaping  cup  tapioca — ^  lb. 
4  cups  milk — a  quart. 

2  tablespoons  sugar. 
Small  lump  of  butter. 

Take  half  the  milk  and  put  the  tapioca 
in  it  lo  soak  in  a  little  pan  set  in  a  rather 
warm  place  for  an  hoiu:  or  two.  BoU  the 
rest  ofthe  milk  with  the  sugar  and  butter 
in  it,  put  in  the  tapioca,  stir  up,  pour  into 
a  buttered  pan  and  bake  half  an  hour. 
It  is,  of  course,  quite  white.  Serve  with 
any  pudding  sauce.  One  egg  or  tw o  yolks 
may  be  added  if  wished  to  have  it  richer. 
The  e^  must  not  be  boiled  in  the  milk, 
but  stirred  in  just  before  putting  in  the 
oven. 


651— Broiled     Sweetbreads,     Maitre 
d'Hotcl. 


It  can  generally  be  relied  upon  that 
only  two-thirds,  perhaps  only  half  the 
people  will  order  such  a  dish  as  this  how- 
ever good  it  may  be.  Prepare  the  sweet- 
breads by  splittmg  in  slices  the  fiat  way, 
dust  with  salt  and  pepper,  press  down  m 
a  plate  of  flour  to  coat  well  on  both  sides; 
broil  in  the  wire  oyster  broiler.  Turn 
frequently  and  baste  with  a  brush  dipped 
m  butter. 


653— Red  Raspberry  Sauce  for  Pud- 
dings. 


Take  half  red  raspberry  juice  or  syrup 
and  half  water,  lo  one  cup  add  half 
cup  sugar  with  a  heaping  teaspoonful 
starch  mixed  In  it  dry.  Simmer  over  the 
fire  until  thick  and  clear.  Good  sauce 
for  any  white  pudding  like  the  preced- 
ing. 


654 — White  Mountain  Ice  Cream. 


I  quart  cream. 
I  pint  milk. 

1  cup  sugar. 

2  large  tablespoons  starch. 

Boil  the  milk  and  sugar  and  thicken 
with  the  starch.  Add  the  cream  cold. 
Flavor,  strain  and  freeze. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


655— Chocolate  Cake   without  Epps. 

1  small  cup  sugar— 6  ounces. 
J^  cup  butter— 4  ounces. 

2  cups  milk — a  pint. 

2  rounded  teaspoons  baking  powder. 

5  cups  flour — \li  pounds. 

2  ounces  chocolate. 

Warm  the  butter  and  stir  it  and  the 
sugar  together  until  well  mixed,  then  add 
the  milk  and  vanilla  flavoring  if  you  have 
it.  Mix  the  powder  in  the  flour  and  stir 
all  together. 

Melt  two  ounces  of  common  chocolate 
in  a  little  pan  by  warming  it  with  noth- 
ing added  and  beat  it  into  the  cake  bat- 
ter. 

Bake  in  shallow  tins  and  frost  overwhen 
done,  with  frosting  made  without  egfijs. 
No.  635. 


657— Rusks  without  Eggs. 


Supper. 


Oatmeal  and  cracked  wheat  mush  (3 
cents.) 

Beefsteak  (8  orders,  i  lb,  and  butter,  16 
cents.) 

Corned  beef  stewed  with  potatoes  (^ 
lb,  meat,  etc.,  6  orders,  7  cents.) 

Codfish  in  cream  (4  orders,  3  cents.) 

Cold  meats  (4  orders,  charged  dinner.) 

Potatoes  (from  dinner,  baked  few,  2 
cents.) 

Plain  rusks  (without  eggs.  No.  657 ;  20 
rusks,  10  cents. 

Rolls  and  bread  (ii  cents.) 

Raspberry  tartlets  and  cake  (paste  trim- 
mings and  remainders  from  dmner,  say, 
10  cents.) 

Fresh  raspberries  (3  pints,  12  cents.) 

Batter  cakes  (no  orders.) 

Butter  15,  milk,  cream,  buttermilk  42, 
cofiee,  tea,  sugar  16. 

Total,  $1  47 ;  26  persons ;  nearly  6  cents 
a  plate. 


Take  half  your  roll  dough  and  work  in 
sugar  and  butter,  set  it  to  rise  again  and 
at  4  o'clock  make  out  in  round  balls  or 
cut  with  a  small  biscuit  cutter;  butter 
between  them  when  placing  in  the  pan 
and  brush  over  the  tops;  place  near 
together  but  not  crowded ;  rise  an  hour 
or  lone;er  and  bake  in  a  slack  oven  about 
20  minutes. 

The  difliculty  with  most  people's  sweet- 
ened breads  is  that  they  are  clammy  like 
dough  not  sufficiently  baked.  There  is 
no  need  of  having  them  that  way  for  all 
that  is  necessary  to  make  them  featherv 
light  and  dry,  is  the  proper  way  of  knead- 
ing fully  explained  for  coffee  cakes  at  No. 
262  ana  elsewhere;  and  then  sufficient 
time  to  rise. 

The  right  proportions  are : 

2  pounds  light  dough— alwut  a  good 
quart  dipperful. 

%  ounces  butter  or  lard— 54  cup. 

5  ounces  sugar — i  cup. 

Brush  over  with  syrup  when  done  and 
dredge  sugar. 


Breakfast. 


656— Corned  Beef  Stew    with    Pota- 
toes. 

Called  also  hashed  corned  beef.  Make 
same  as  the  lamb  "gallimaufry"  No.  6i8 ; 
of  equal  quantities  of  corned  beef  with 
some  fat  upon  it  and  po'-atoes  all  cut  in 
neat  dice  shapes. 


Blackcap  raspberries  and  currants  (2 
qts,  18  cents.) 

(3atmeal  (2  cents.) 

Beefsteak  (4  orders,  10  cents.) 

Lamb  chops  (10  orders,  20  small  chops, 
2  lbs,  20  cents.) 

Omelets  with  green  onions  (No.  89 ;  4 
orders,  8  eggs,  10  cents.) 

Eggs  poached  and  boiled  (10  orders, 
24  cents.) 

Potatoes  minced  in  cream  (No.  534;  7 
cents.) 

German  puffs  (No.  623;  18  large  with 
6  eegs,  etc.,  18  cents.) 

Corn  bread  (buttermilk,  no  eggs,  8 
orders,  3  cents.) 

Graham  batter  cakes  (no  eggs,  i  qt,  7 
cents.) 

Milk  (6  qts,  18  cents.) 

Cream  (3  pts,  30  cents.) 

Butter  (i  lb,  20  cents.) 

Syrup  4,  bread  4,  coffee,  tea,  sugar  14. 

Total,  $2  09;  26  persons;  8  cents  a 
plate. 


^3 


COOKING  FOR  PROJEIT, 


658— White    Citron    Cake      w.thout 
Eggs. 

1  small  cup  sugar — 6  ounces. 
54  cup  butter— 4  ounces. 

2  cups  milk — a  pint  (part  of  it  should 
be  sour.) 

2  heaped  teaspoons  baking  powder. 

S  cups  flour — 1 5^  pounds. 

y^  pound  citron  cut  small. 

I  teaspoon  lemon  extract. 

Soften  the  butter,  stir  it  up  with  the 
sugar  and  the  milk  not  too  cold  to  mix. 
Sift  the  powder  in  the  flour.  Mix  and 
beat  well  and  add  flavor  and  the  citron 
previously  dusted  with  flour.  Bake  in 
round  mould  or  shallow  tin  and  frost 
over.  Fine  cake  and  favorite.  If  no  sour 
milk  use  pinch  cream  tartar  or  juice  of 
half  a  lemon  to  whiten  \l.  Use  no  soda 
in  any  cake  that  is  to  be  white.  Costs, 
30  cents  for  3^  pounds  frosted  without 
eggs.  

Dinner. 

Soup,  beef  a  TAnglaise  (5  qts,  25  cents.) 
Whitefish,  Point  Shirley  Style  (2  fishes, 

4  lbs,  20  orders,  with  seasonings,45  cents.) 
Boiled  corned  beef  (>^  lb,  5  cents.) 
Boiled  bacon  and  greens  (trifle,3  cents.) 
Roast  loin  of  beef  (2  lbs,  30  cents.) 
Roast  lamb  (3  lbs,  30  cents.) 
Veal  patties,  bechamel,  (ro  with  5^  lb, 

veal,  12  cents.) 
String  beans  with  bacon  (garden,   12 

cents.) 
Green  peas  (garden,  10  cents.) 
Tomatoes  and  corn  (20  cents.) 
Potatoes  (two  ways,  7  cents.) 
Sponge  pudding,  cherry   sauce 

664^;  i}^  lbs,  with  sauce,  19  cents.) 
Cherry  pie  (i  large,  with  i  pt,  pitted 

cherries  6,  sugar  3,  crust  3;  12  cents.) 
Raspberries  and  cream  (i  qt,  berries, 

8  cents.) 
Cream  20,  milk  12,  butter,  bread  11. 
Crackers,  cheese,  pickles,  condiments, 

nuts,  raisins,  average  27  cents. 
Cofiee,  tea,  sugar  12. 
Total,  $3   19;  27  persons,  nearly  12 

cents  a  plate. 


(No. 


659— Beef   Soup,    a     i'Anglais^,    or 
English  ^tyie. 

It  is  a  brown,  strong  soup  with  small 


cut  beef  and  vegetables  in  it. 

Prepare  stock  over  night  that  the  soup 
may  be  ready  in  good  time  in  the  fore- 
noon, to  allow  it  to  simmer  and  have  fre- 
quent skimming  to  brighten  it.  The 
stock  may  be  made  by  boiling  the  lower 
portion  of  round  of  beef  (2  lbs.,  15  cents) 
with  other  beef  trimmings  and  a  veal 
bone ;  a  bayleaf  and  six  cloves  and  an 
onion.  Strain  and  skim,  boil  and  add  a 
thickening  of  brown  roux  if  you  can  have 
good  butter,  or  of  baked  flour,  or  common 
flour-and-water.  Cut  2  small  cups  of 
different  soup  vegetables  in  small  dice 
and  the  same  of  the  cold  boiled  beef  out 
of  the  stock  pot.  Simmer  at  least  an 
hour;  skim  often,  season,  and  at  last  add 
a  tablespoon  of  walnut  catsup,  and  half 
a  lemon  cut  in  small  slices. 


660— Whitefish,  Point  Shirley  Style. 

The  fish  are  split  in  halves,  laid  open, 
seasoned,  baked  in  a  buttered  dripping 
pan,  egged  over  while  baking  and  spread 
with  softened  butter  and  minced  parsley 
when  done.  Divide  in  portions  with  a 
broad  fish  slice;  serve  on  small  plates 
with  a  spoontul  of  mashed  potato  in  the 
same  "plate. 


661— Bacon  and  Greens. 

A  small  quantity  of  greens,  not  enough 
to  serve  as  a  vegetable  with  every  order, 
fills  up  a  gap  in  this  way  and  will  seldom 
be  cailecf  upon  when  other  dishes  are 
numerous.  Boil  the  bacon  with  the 
corned  beef  first,  then  with  the  beet, 
radish  or  turnip  greens.  Serve  a  slice  on 
each  dish  of  greens. 


662— Veal  Patties,  Bechamel. 


The  term  bechamel  attached  to  a  dish  • 
signifies  that  it  is  in  cream  sauce  and  con- 
sequentiy  white;  thus  the  white  oyster 
patties.  No.  327,  are  a  la  Becliamd  in  a 
bill  of  fare.  It  is  the  name  of  a  French 
steward  or  cook,  who  brought  cream 
sauce  into  notice ;  but  to  be  genuine  the 
sauce  should  be  but  half  cream,  the  other 
half  seasoned  broth  boiled  down  strong 
and  clarified.  Cut  cooked  veal  in  neal 
dice,  put  it  in  bechamel  sauce  well  sea- 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


66 


soned  and  fill  patty  shells  wich  it  same  as 
oysters. 


663— String    Becns,    German    Style. 


Snap  short  and  boil  an  hour.  Instead 
of  butter  or  cream  sauce  to  finish  cut  up 
some  bacon  or  salt  pork  quite  small,  and 
boil  with  the  beans  after  pouring  off  the 
first  water. 


664— Baked  Sponge  Pudding. 

Make  butter  sponge  cake,  No.  561. 
Bake  in  shallow  tins.  Sift  granulated 
sugar  over  betore  baking  and  it  will  come 
out  glazed.  Cut  in  small  square  blocks 
and  serve  with  red  syrup  made  of  cherry 
juice,  water  and  sugar. 


665— Cherry  Pie,  Country  Style. 


Roll  the  paste  thin,  line  the  largest  pie 
pan.  Put  in  2  cups  of  pitted  cherries 
raw,  spread  sugar  over,  cover  with  a  thin 
crust,  bake  slowly  and  well  but  light 
colored. 


Supper 

Oatmeal  (2  cups  raw,  4  cents.) 

Broiled  bass  (11  orders,  2  fishes,  3  lbs, 
gross,  and  butter,  30  cents.) 

Beefsteak  (3  orders,  7  cents.) 

Cold  corned  beef  (4  orders,  charged 
dinner.) 

Potatoes  (pats  and  cold  fried,  charged 
dinner.) 

Biscuits  (20,  buttermilk,  o  cents.) 

French  coffee  cakes  (No.  262;  30, 
glazed,  sugared,  warm,  20  cents.) 

Cake  (2  kinds,  for  show,  trifle  used,  10 
cents.) 

Raspberries  (3  pints,  15  cents.) 

Cream  (3  pints,  30  cents.) 

Butter  15,  bread 4,  coffee,  tea,  sugar  17. 

Mik,  buttermilk  24. 

Total,  $1  85;  27  persons;  7  cents  a 
plate. 

66&— Broiled  Bass. 

It  will  be  found  that  dipping  the  split  fish 
in  flour  before  broiling  secures  a  better 


brown  color  than  it  will  take  on  without. 
It  is  a  firm  fish  and  rather  dry  when 
broiled,  but  preferred  so  by  many  to 
whitefish  or  other  oily  kinds.  Split 
lengthwise,  divide  each  side  in  two  or 
three,  flour,  and  while  broiling  baste  with 
a  brush  dipped  m  butter.  Small  ones 
may  be  broiled  whole,  the  head  being 
left  on,  and  larger  ones  for  restaurant 
orders  partly  broiled,  and  finished  in  the 
oven  or  wholly  broiled  by  being  wrapped 
in  buttered  paper,allowing  plenty  of  time. 


Breakfast. 


July  18. 

Cherries  and  gooseberries  (2  qts,  16 
cents.) 

Oatmeal  (3  cents.) 

Fried  trout  (dipped  in  flour  only,  4 
orders,  8  cents.) 

Saratoga  chips  and  baked  potatoes  (5 
cents.) 

Beefsteak  (6  orders,  8  cents.) 

Bacon  (i  order,  2  cents.) 

Lamb  chops  (13  orders,  26  chops,  3  lbs, 
gross,  30  cents.) 

Fancy  twisted  rolls  (20  rolls,  10  cents.) 

Com  egg-bread  (6  cents.) 

Graham  batter  cakes  (i  qt,  6  cents.) 

Cream  (3  pts,  -^o  cents.) 

Milk,  buttermilk  (6  qts,  18  cents.) 

Butter  IS,  syrup  6,  bread  4,  coffee, 
tea,  sugar  16. 

Total,  $1  83;  26  persons;  7  cents  a 
plate. 

Last  evening  two  of  Black's  boarders 
came  over  to  look  at  rooms — ladies — said 
to  be  a  banker's  wife  and  daughter — said 
they  could  not  endure  the  noise  over  there 
had  heard  good  reports  of  our  "Eyrie" 
from  our  two  friendly  Dukes ;  took  rooms 
in  the  hill  cottage  and  would  move  over 
this  morning.  They  came  again  for  good 
after  breakfast.  Gentleman  soon  after 
came  over  in  a  buggy ;  a  colonel  some- 
body; has  been  stopping  at  the  Palmer, 
the  other  large  hotel  at  the  depot.  He 
says  they  gave  him  a  sour  mutton  chop 
for  breakfast  this  morning;  that  every 
steak  and  mutton  chop  he  has  had  since 
he  has  been  there  has  been  sour  "and  a 
fellow  can't  stand  that,  you  know."  He 
must  have  had  previous  acquaintance 
with  these  ladies  for  after  engaging  a  room 
and  sending  for  his  baggage  they  three 


tn 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


went  sailing  into  the  west  in  the  same 
bou  together  before  they  had  been  here 
an  hour. 

On  eleven  o'clock  train  arrived  another 
member  of  the  Dukes  firm— lady  this 
time.  Has  been  at  some  neighboring 
resort. 

"What  is  a  lady  duke  called — isn't  she 
a  duchess?" 

"Why,  certainly  she  is  a  duchess — of 
course.  Goodness !  girls,  you  must  wait 
on  them  splendidly,  the  best  you  know 
how — for  now  we  have  a  family  from 
Paris,  two  dukes,  a  duchess,  a  colonel 
and  a  banker's  wife  and  daughter — you 
must  fold  the  napkins  in  beautiful  shapes, 
like  this  and  this,  and  cut  the  finest  bread 
in  thick  blocks  and  lay  one  under  the  fold 
of  the  uapkin  on  each  inverted  plate,  this 
way.  The  housekeeper  will  show  you 
more  when  she  comes  in,  but  I  hope  they 
will  keep  her  always  busy  in  th**  cottages 
now." 

Arrived  at  same  time  two  elegant 
boquets  for  the  cook,  viz. :  one  basket  of 
summer  cabbages,  8  cost  40  cents;  and 
one  basket  summer  beets  and  onions, 
cost  the  same. 

Have  just  received  notice  to  prepare  a 
little  birthday  supper  two  days  hence. 


Arrived,  first  lot  of  fneat  from  a  new 
butcher,  one  who  is  used  to  supplying 
hotels.  Was  rather  surprised  to  nna  by 
bill  everything  charged  one  uniform  price, 
II  cents  a  ponnd. 

There  is  15-cent  ham,  1254-cent  loin 
beef  and  roast,  13-centlard,  8-cent  mut- 
ton»and  lo-cent  lamb  and  other  items  all 
charged  at  11  cents  all  round.  Seems 
novel,  but  gooti  enough. 

667— Trouble  with  Sour  Meats. 

Noblesse  oblige,  A  gentleman  speaks 
truth  about  a  hotel  although  he  may  be 
seekmg  reasons  for  leaving  it.  When 
the  colonel  says  the  steaks  and  chops 
served  to  him  at  the  Palmer  House  at 
Uintah  Lake  are  always  sour,  there  is 
nothing  to  be  said  but  to  seek  the  reason 
why. 

Our  breakfast  and  supper  bills  of  fare 
show  that  sometimes  there  will  be  four 


beefsteaks  ordered  and  at  another  twelve 
tor  fourteen ;  the  same  with  lamb  or  mut- 
ton chops,  bacon,  fish  and  other  meats ; 
these  numbers  are  to  be  multiplied  by  ten 
a  for  house  like  the  Palmer,at  the  deppt, 
and  yet  if  a  train  should  arrive  bringing 
an  unusual  number  of  people  to  a  meal, 
there  would  be  no  unusal  flurry  and  the 
many  would  receive  their  fresh  broiled 
meats  as  soon  as  the  few  would  have 
done ;  and,  taking  one  time  with  another, 
there  wiU  be  no  more  cooked  steaks  and 
chops  left  over  after  a  meal  for  a  few  than 
for  a  large  number.  This  is  because  the 
meats  are  always  kept  ready  to  be  laid 
upon  the  gridiron,  but  are  never  actually 
cooked  until  they  are  asked  for,  and  this 
is  the  great  recommendation  of  the  first- 
class  plan  of  broiling  meats  to  order  over 
the  Barnacle  way  of  cooking  up  a  lot  of 
meat  large  enough  to  meet  expected  de- 
mands and  having  to  throw  away  panfuls, 
blackened,  dried  or  sodden  of  that  which 
is  left,  or  be  thrown  into  wild  confusion 
by  the  arrival  of  five  or  six  unexfjectedly. 
1  he  one  disadvantage  of  the  possibility 
of  the  cut  meats  turning  sour  before  they 
are  cooked,is  due  entirely  to  carelessness 
There  should  be  a  tray  made  purposely 
to  hold  the  raw  steaks,  chops  and  other 
meats,  like  this : 


Catleta 
Veal  and  Pork 


Mutton 

and 

Lamb  Chops 


II  am. 


Tend-jrloiaj 

Co  amon 

Steak 


Broiler's  Tray  of  Out  Meats. 

This  tray  is  best  made  of  galvanized 
iron:  the  compartments  are  10  or  12 
inches  square,  the  sides  are  3  inches 
deep;  there  are  stout  handles  on  two 
sides,  like  a  baking  pan,  to  carry  and 
hang  up  by  when  not  in  use.  A  tray  with 
more  or  smaller  compartments  than  this 
is  hard  to  clean,  being  unweidly,  but 
there  might  be  two  used  for  a  large  busi- 
ness requiring  twice  as  many  kinds  of 
meats  to  be  ready. 

The  trouble  over  at  the  Palmer  House 
is  caused  by  the  tray  being  overstocked. 
They  not  only  fill  it  but  stack  it  up  with 


SAN    RANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


6S 


steaks,  chops  and  cutlets ;  bring  it  from 
the  refrigerator  to  the  kitchen,  keep  it 
there  in  front  of  range  and  broiler  for 
four  hours — from  6  till  lo  in  the  morn- 
ing— of  a  hot  summer  day;  only  use  half 
and  cany  the  remainder  back  to  the 
meat  house  where  it  hardly  becomes 
cool  before  supper  time  when  it  is  brought 
out  again.  They  ^vould  not  have  any 
sour  meats  if  they  would  but  leave  the 
bulk  of  them  in  the  refrigerator  and  only 
bring  out  a  dozen  or  two  of  orders  at  a 
time— mere  matter  of  forethought. 


Dinner. 

Consomme,  a  la  de  Stael  (No.  668;  6 
qts,  35  cents.) 

Salmon  trout,  a  la  Chevaliere  (2  fishes, 
4  lbs,  and  seasonings,  40  cents.) 

Nantaise  potatoes  (3  cents.) 

Boiled  ham  and  corned  beef  (20  cents.) 

Roast  loin  of  beef  (3  lbs,  net,  38  cents.) 

Lamb  cutlets  with  puree  of  green  peas 
(12  orders,  18  cents.) 

Scrambled  sweetbreads  in  pasty  borders 
(6  orders,  10  cents.) 

Marrowfat  peas  (15  cents.) 

Lima  beans  (dried,  %  lb,  and  season- 
ings, 5  cents.) 

Com  and  tomatoes  (20  cents.) 

Potatoes  mashed,  boiled  (6  cents.) 

Eve's  pudding,  raspberry  butter  sauce 
(No.  675;  pudding  20;  sauce  9;  29  cents.) 

White  cocoanut  pie  (No.  677 ;  mering- 
ued  pink  with  raspberry  juice,  2  pies 
laipe,  deep,  26  cents.) 

Vanilla  ice  cream  (32  cents.) 

Cherries  and  currants  (2  qts,  16  cents.) 

Cake  assorted  (12  cents.) 

Cheese,  crackers,  pickles,  nuts,  raisins 
(average,  30  cents.) 

Milk  12,  cream  15,  coffee  6,  tea,  sugar 
6,  bread  6. 

Total,  $4  00;  30  Dersons;  i^ji  cents  a 
plate. 

The  colonel  when  at  table,  it  would 
appear,  is  talkative  and  full  of  life  and 
spirits.  That's  all  right.  He  made  the 
aemark  that  my  consomme  was  exquisite 
but,  was  seasoned  too  highly  with  cay- 
enne, and  of  course  I  heard;  of  it.  No 
such  thing.  But  that's  all  right.  Ill 
bet  he  only  said  it  to  lead  off  to  curries 
and  his  experiences  in  hot  climates  and 
his  **hairDreath  'scapes  by   flood    and 


field."  That's  all  right  too;  we  all  have 
our  parts  tojplay  and  get  our  work  in  when 
we  can.  Then,  later  on,  he  asked  the 
manager,  with  whom  he  is  already  on 
terms  of  the  utmost  cordiality,  why  this  was 
called  Eve's  pudding  and  the  manager, 
laughing,  said  he  would  ask  me.  Now,  a 
fellow  does  not  want  to  be  bothered  with 
fool  questions  after  scudding  around  the 
whole  of  a  hot  morning  preparing  a  din- 
ner and  then  carving  and  serving  it ;  still 
I  did  not  tell  them  to  go  to  thunder  as 
cooks  generally  do  under  such  circum- 
stances— this  house  being  too  small  for 
anybody  to  be  mean  in— but  replied  that 
the  pudding  is  as  old  as  the  hills ;  one  of 
the  oest  ever  was  invented;  the  receipt 
has  been  put  in  rhyme  like  Sydney  Smith's 
salad  dressing;  didn't  known  why  it^  is 
called  Eve's  unless  because  it  contains 
apples,  and  couldn't  even  see  where  that 
came  in.  Then  the  irrepressible  colonel 
took  a  bill  of  fare  and  wrote  on  the  back 
of  it: 

Eureka  1 

"The  woman  tempted  me  and  I  did 
eat." 

The  pudding  tempted /«tf  and /did  eat  I 

The  manager  showed  it  to  me  after 
dinner  was  over.  That's  all  right.  Ill 
keep  it  to  fling  at  the  next  one  asks  me 
something  I  don't  know.  I'll  have  to 
save  tenderloin  steaks  for  the  colonel. 


668— Consomme  a  la  do  Stael. 

It  is  a  clear,  rich  brown  soup  with 
lozenge  shapes  of  fried  bread  and 
quenelle  forcemeat  in  the  plates. 

Make  a  rich  broth  of  beef  and  veal 
boUed  down  strong  overnight  with  a 
bunch  of  soup  vegetables  and  three  or 
four  cloves.  Strain  into  a  jar.  When 
cold  remove  the  fat,  pour  off  from  the 
sediment.  Chop  a  pound  of  lean  beef 
and  boil  up  in  the  beef  broth.  Strain 
through  a  napkin.  Set  over  the  fire  again 
sdm,  season,  and  add  from  one-third  to 
one-half  of  a  little  white  pot  of  Leibeg's 
extract  of  Ineat  (private  stock  from  the 
cook's  valise.)  The  consomme  will  then 
have  sufficient  color  and  flavor. 

For  the  quenelles  mince  a  piece  of 
white  veal  size  of  an  egg,  (or;  use  breast 
of  partridge,  quail  or  chicken  if  at  hand) 
and  then  pound  to  a  paste.  Season  with» 
a  pinch  of  minced  herbs  or  parsley  and 


^9 


COOKING  FOR  PROMT. 


grated  lemon  rind  (very  little),  moisten 
with  yolk  of  egg,  fatten  out,  cut  with 
something  like  a  funnel  point  or  apple 
corer  if  you  have  not  the  proper  cutters, 
drop  the  quenelles  in  boilmg  water ;  dip 
up  two  to  each  plate  of  soup.  Cut  out 
bread  with  the  same  cutter,  fry  in  the 
clear  part  of  melted  butter  and  put  two 
in  each  plate  with  the  quenelles. 

These  little  accessories  can  be  made 
ready  long  before  they  are  to  be  used ; 
perhaos  in  the  intervals  between  orders 
while  Dreakfast  is  going  on.  The  French 
name  was  given  lonG;  ago  in  allusion  to 
Madame  de  Stael,  of  literary  and  political 
fame. 


669— The  Chevalier  Style. 


One  of  our  French  authors  writes  ad- 
miringly of  "the  chevaliers  and  abbes" 
of  the  last  century,  and  their  beneficent 
influence  in  advancing  and  disseminating 
the  art  of  cookery.  The  chevaliers,  it 
appears,  were  men  of  high  social  position ; 
a  sort  of  gentlemen  soldiers,  educated 
according  to  the  culture  of  those  days; 
having  nothing  particular  to  do  but  travel 
and  see  what  they  thought  was  the  world; 
putting  up  themselves  and  their  steeds  at 
the  monasteries  when  it  happened  that 
there  was  no  inn  that  offered  entertain- 
ment for  man  and  beast ;  observing  what 
the  fattest  of  the  fat  friars  ate  and  thrived 
upon  and  telling  it  at  the  next  table  for 
the  edification  of  the  new  company; 
samplinc  and  remembering  the  best  dishes 
of  the  different  countries  and  carrying  the 
news  in  the  times  when  books,  papers  and 
readers  alike  were  few  and  duU.  It  could 
not  be  otherwise  than  that  some  maitres 
^  hotel  (stewards  of  wealthy  houses) 
should  eagerly  name  some  dish  which 
had  been  so  lucky  as  to  be  approved  by 
one  of  these  perhaps  temporarily  C9n- 
spicuous  personages,  a  la  chhjoliere,  which 
is  impliedlv  a  la  mode  chevalUre;  or — as 
we  shoula  write  it — in  the  chevalier 
fashion ;  and  it  appears  that  there  have 
been  many  dishes  so  named,  but  nearly 
all  were  evanescent,  having  no  distin- 
gubhment  but  some  trifling  accessory  or 
whim  of  decoration  of  no  permanent 
value.  A  comparison  of  several  author- 
ities shows  that  the  only  dishes  which  all 
agree  in  designating  as  a  la  chevaliere, 
are  those  that  are  egged   and    bre?d- 


crumbed.  A  chicken  breaded  and  fried 
is  a  la  chevaliere,  a  trout  breaded  and 
fried  is  a  la  chevaliere,  too.  The  deco- 
rations vary,the  breading  is  the  one  perma^ 
nent  feature.  There  is  a  refinement  in 
this  however, which  requires  grated  cheese 
— Parmesan— to  be  mixed  with  the  bre  d 
curmbs  used  to  coat  the  morsel.  It  may 
easily  be  imagined  how  some  epicurean 
rover  sitting  down  to  breakfast  with  the 
sleek  abbot  found  a  surprise  and  a  revel- 
ation in  his  first  dish  of  capon  bread- 
crumbed  and  fried  in  oil ;  how  he  labored 
to  reproduce  the  dish  when  he  returned 
come,  and  how  it  came  to  be  called  the 
chevalier's. 

It  should  be  observed  that  although 
the  masculine  chevalier  does  not  termi- 
nate with  Cy  a  i>eculiarity  of  the  French 
language  requires  a  terminal  ^  to  be 
added  and  makes  it  feminhie  in  the 
menu,  as  are  all  the  words  which  follow 
"a  la  mode.'*  Parisian  style  potatoes  as- 
sume the  feminine  Parisienne;  macaroni 
Italian  style  becomes  Italienne,  and  so 
with  all  designations  after  "a  la"  except 
the  proper  names  of  persons. 


670— Ti out,  a  la  Chevaliere. 

Split  the  fish,  remove  all  bones,  sea- 
son with  fine  salt,  cayenne  and  drops  of 
lemon  juice.  Mbc  together  2  cups  cracker 
meal  and  i  cup  grated  or  finely  minced 
cheese  (any  kind.)  Dip  the  sides  of  the 
fish  in  beaten  egg  in  a  shallow  pan,  then 
in  the  cracker  dust  mixture  ana  let  lie  in 
it  awhile.  Spread  a  baking  pan  with  soft 
butter,  lay  the  fish  in  and  bake  slowly, 
basting  once  with  melted  butter.  The 
pan  should  be  roomy  that  the  pieces  of 
fish  may  not  be  crowded  together.  Serve 
hot  and  crisp  without  sauce,  but  with 
potatoes  in  the  same  plate. 


671— Nantaise  Potatoes. 


Scoop  out  fluted  berry  shapes  of  raw 
potatoes  with  a  potato  spoon,  put  them 
in  a  saucepan  with  a  lump  of  butter  and 
let  simmer  in  it  until  done,  then  pour  ofl^ 
the  butter,  set  the  potatoes  in  the  oven 
to  brown  slightly.  Sprmkle  with  minced 
parsley.  Serve  with  fish.  Nantaise  has 
reference  to  the  city  of  Nantes,  in  France. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


70 


672~Lamb    Cutlets    with    Puree    0 
Green  Peas. 


Take  ths  best  shaped  lamb  chops,  trim 
nicely  and  flatten,  season,  dip  in  fl9ur  and 
have  them  ready  in  a  frying  pan  with  very 
little  fat  from  the  roastmg  meats. 

Mash  some  very  green  cooked  peas 
through  a  seive,  season  with  butter  and 
white  pepper,  drop  a  pear  shaped  spoon- 
ful of  this  green  puree  in  each  individual 
dish,  shape  and  smooth  it  a  little,  Iry 
(saute)  the  lamb  chops,  lay  one  on  top  of 
the  puree,  press  down  shghtly,  pour  a 
spoonful  of  light  brown  sauce  around  the 
base  in  the  dish. 


673— Scrambled    Sweetbreads     in 
Pastry  Borders. 

Small  and  fragmentary  sweetbreads 
that  cannot  be  sliced  can  be  used  this 
way.  Cut  them  in  dice,  put  in  a  frying 
pan  with  butter  and  eggs,  salt,  pepper, 
scramble  same  as  eggjs,  not  too  dry,  add 
a  squeeze  of  lemon  juice  and  little  minced 
parsley. 

Roll  out  scraps  of  pie  paste,  cut  out 
crescent  shapes  with  a  scolloped  cake 
cutter  and  bake  them.  Serve  the  sweet- 
breads in  flat  dishes  with  pastry  crescents 
at  each  end. 


y2  pound  bread  crumbs  minced  fine — 
about  4  cups. 

}i  pound  chopped  suet— i  cup. 

6  ounces  raisins  or  currants— i  cup. 

Same  of  chopped  apples. 

Nutmeg— about  J^  grated. 

Mbc  the  above  together  dry,  then  beat 
up  in  another  bowl : 

4  ^ggs- 

6  tablespoons  milk  or  water. 

3  tablespoons  sugar. 

Minced  lemon  peel,  or  a  little  extract 
if  at  hand. 

Stir  all  well  together;  tie  up  in  a  pud- 
ding cloth  and  boil  4  hours.  Serve  with 
hard  sauce  or  any  other  plum  pudding 
sauce. 


674 — Dried  Lima  Beans. 


The  dried  are  better  than  the  canned. 
They  are  not  hard  to  cook  either.  Soak  a 
cupful  in  water  a  few  hours  and  boil  about 
an  hour.  Drain  off  and  season  in  the  same 
way  as  peas,  that  is,  sometimes  with  cream 
sauce,  sometimes  with  butter  only  or, 
with  small  pieces  of  bacon  or  salt  pork 
stewed  in  them.  Should  they  prove  to 
be  of  a  sample  difficult  to  boil  soft  add  a 
small  piece  of  baking  soda  to  the  water 
they  are  boiled  in. 


676— Raspberry  Butter  Sauce. 


Make  hard  sauce  in  the  uiual  manner 
(No.  177 ;)  and  stir  in  enough  of  the  f  yrup 
from  [  carlet  raspberries  to  color  and  and 
flavor  it. 


677— White  Cocoanut  Custard. 


675— Eve's  Pudding. 

It  is  a  good  sort  of  boiled  plum  pud- 
ding, not  so  rich  and  heavy;  is  cinnamon 
colored  when  made  right.  It  is  well  worth 
while  to  weigh  the  ingredients  as  they  are 
uncertain  things  to  measure. 


There  is  a  most  excellent  white  cocoa- 
nut  mixture  at  No.  163;  but  takei  up 
more  time  than  this  to  make. 

For  this  proceed  as  if  making  custard 
pie,  using  all  whites  and  counting  2 
whites  equal  to  one  egg;  which  will  be: 

3  cups  milk. 

I  cup  white  of  eggs — 10  or  12  whites. 

%  cup  sugar. 

I  heaping  cup  cocoanut. 

I  teaspoon  lemon  extract. 

Beat  up,  fill  2  paste-lined  pie  pans  and 
bake  slovvly. 

Meringue  (or  fiost)  them  over  when  they 
are  nearly  done ;  stirring  in  a  little  rasp- 
berry syrup  to  color  the  frosting  pink  and 
dredge  granulated  sugar  on  the  surface 
before  baking. 


678— Trouble  with  the  Ice  Cream. 


A  little  party  of  four  ladies  from  the 
Trulirural  House  came  over  in  a  boat  im- 
mediately after  dinner.  Wanted  to  know 
of  the  manager  whether  really  and  truly, 
you  know,  we  have  ice  cieam  every  day. 
Said  they  never  were  so  disappointed, 
the  Trulirural  only  makes  ice  cream  once 
a  week,  that  is  on  Sunday,  and  after  all 


II 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


when  it  was  made  it  proved  to  be  only 
frozen  buttermilk  full  of  lumps  of  butter. 
These  four  are  the  elders  remaining  of 
the  party  that  came  over  serenading 
about  ten  days  ago.  They  have  taken 
rooms  and  will  move  over  before  supper. 
I  know  how  that  ice  cream  trouble  oc- 
curred ;  saw  the  same  mishap  at  Bass- 
wood  City.  There  vras  a  young  fellow  of 
a  tGO  sanguine  di-iposition  struggling 
aUng  witli  a  restaurant  that  did  not  pay, 
buoyed  up  by  ihe  visions  of  wealth  he 
was  going  to  realize  during  the  approach- 
ing summer  by  making  ice  cream.  Be- 
ing consulted,  I  advised  the  purchase  of 
only  one  freezer,  or,  if  he  must  have  two, 
to  get  a  4-quart  and  a  6-quart  size. 
Young  man  thought  I  was  surely  jesting 
and  sent  off  for  a  4-gallon  and  a  lo-gal- 
lon.  On  the  first  balmy  day  that  fore- 
tokened the  arrival  of  gentle  spring  he  in- 
vited all  his  acquaintances  to  a  treat  of  the 
first  luscious  ice  cream  of  the  season;  his 
own  make ;  the  first  he  had  ever  made,and 
afcer  all  it  proved  a  delusion  and  for  him 
a  mortification  that  he  never  recovered 
from.  It  was  buttermilk  and  butter 
frozen,  buch  a  thing  could  not  happen 
to  a  person  who  might  not  care  whether 
the  ice  cream  were  not  good  or  mdiflfer- 
ent,  but  this  party  was  too  solicitous, 
whipped  or  churned  the  cream  to  make 
It  foamy,  and  increase  the  bulk  when  the 
temperature  was  just  right  for  "butter  to 
come"  quickly.  If  the  young  man  had 
had  freezers  to  buy  that  afternoon  he 
would  have  been  content  with  a  i-quart 
and  a  2-quart,  for  he  took  a  sudden  dis- 
gust at  the  ice  cream  business.  Pour 
your  cream  into  the  freezer,  sweeten  and 
flavor  it  and  freeze  without  further  prep- 
aration, but  after  it  is  frozen  then  the 
more  it  is  beaten  the  better  it  will  be  and 
"butter  won't  come"  at  that  temperatiire. 

Supper. 

Oatmeal  (3  cups  raw,  4  cents.) 

Broiled  whitefish  (4  lbs,  net,  and  %  lb, 
butter,  45  cents.) 

Beefsteak  (7  orders,  i  lb,  loin  net,  15 
cents.) 

Cold  meats  (8  orders,  charged  dinner.) 

Potatoes  (from  dinner,  and  baked,  4 
cents.) 

French  rolls  (30;  12  cents.) 

Waffles  (No.  679;  3  qts,  24,  and  lard  to 


bake  6;  30  cents.) 
Crackers  and  milk  (crackers,  5  cents.) 
Cherries,  fresh  ripe  (2  qts,  20  cents.) 
Cocoanut  cookies  (without  eggs,  and 

other  cake,  15  cents.) 
Cream  30.  milk  24,  syrjp  16,  butter  20. 
Cofiee,  tea,  sugar  22,  bread  6. 
Total,  $2  68;  34  j)ersons;  8  cents  a 

plate. 

679— Waffles— Yeast  Raised. 


6  cups  fiour — i^^  oounds. 

2  large  cups  milk  or  water. 

2-cent  cake  compressed  yeast. 

^  cup  melted  butter  or  lard. 

4  or  5  eggs,  or  yolks  left  over. 

Salt. 

Dissolve  the  yeast  in  the  milk  (or  water) 
lukewarm ;  stir  up  all  to  a  thick  batter 
and  beat  it  well  with  a  large  egg  whip  or 
spoon.  Let  rise  in  a  moderately  warm 
place  about  4  hours,  beat  up  again  half 
an  hour  before  baking  time.  If^you  use 
potato  yeast  a  cupful  will  be  required. 
If  mixed  at  2  o'clock  in  summer  the  bat- 
ter will  be  ready  to  bake  at  6. 

Anyone  who  has  made  muffins  out  of 
the  roll  dough  as  at  No.  582;  can  take  the 
same  advantage  making  waffle  batter, 
using  about  4  cups  of  roll  dough,  warm 
milk  to  thin  it  down  like  batter  cakes  and 
the  enriching  ingreaients  the  same  as  in 
this  receipt.  It  will  be  ready  to  bake  in 
an  hour  after,  if  warm. 

Any  kind  of  batter  cake  mixture  can 
be  baked  in  waffle  irons  if  they  are  in 
good  order  and  not  burnt,  and  waffles 
can  be  made  without  eggs  if  the  same  as 
batter  cakes,  but  when  they  stick  to  the 
irons  the  remedy  is  to  add  an  egg  or  two, 
and  waffles  without  eggs  cannot  be  baked 
in  much  haste  but  must  have  time  and 
dry  out  of  the  irons.  Syrup  or  sugar  in 
the  batter  causes  them  to  bake  brown. 
It  is  a  vast  improvement  and  prevents 
sticking  to  beat  the  batter  very  thor- 
oughly. 

Make  the  waffle  irons  hot,  put  in  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  melted  lard  and  turn  over, 
pour  batter  in  each  compartment,  shut 
up  and  bake  both  sides.  Waffles  are 
known  only  by  the  name  of  wafers  in 
some  places. 

680 — Cocoanut  Cookies  without  bggs. 

The  same  as  No.  64"? ;  but,  before  all 


SAN  JiRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


72 


the  flour  is  in  add  a  cup  (4  oz.)  of  com- 
mon bulk,  or  new  grated  cocoanut. 


681— Good  Fruit  Cake  without  Eggs. 


1  small  cup  sugar— 6  ounces. 
^  cup  butter — ^4  ounces. 

2  cups  milk  or  water — a  pint. 

2  heaped  teaspoons  baking  powder. 

5  cups  flour — 1%  pounds. 

2  teaspoons  ground  cinnamon. 

I  teaspoon  each  cloves  and  allspice. 

I  or  2  cups  raisins  and  the  same  of  cur- 
rants. Cut  the  raisins  in  halves,  dust 
them  and  currants  with  flour.  Mix  up 
the  cake  the  usual  way  by  stirring  butter, 
sugar  and  milk  together  first.  Frost  over 
when  baked  with  frosting  made  without 
eggs.  No.  635. 


Breakfast. 


July  19.  . 

Raspbemes  and  cherries  (2  qts,  18 
cents.) 

Cracked  wheat  (2  cups,  3  cents.) 

Beefsteak  (9  orders,  ij^  lbs.  net,  20 
cents.) 

Mutton  chops  (6  orders,  i  lb,  13  cents.) 

Liver  and  bacon  (11  orders,  i}i  lbs, 
15  cents.) 

Ham  and  eggs  (6  orders,  12  egg  15, 
12  oz,  ham,  net  15—30  cents.) 

Potatoes,  Saratoga  chips  and  baked 
(7  cents.) 

Com  bread  (with  3  cups  meal,  2 
eggs,  2  yolks,  etc.,  18  orders,  12  cents.) 

French  rolls  (30  rolls,  13  cents.) 

Butter  20  oz,  25,  syrup  5,  bread  6. 

Cream  3  pts,  30,  milk,  buttermilk  2 
gallons  24. 

Cofiee  12,  tea  3,  sugar  12. 

Total,  $2  48;  34  persons;  little  over  7 
cents  a  plate. 


towel  before  frying,  although  it  has  been 
done  at  some  places  of  great  repute. 


682— Saratoga  C»?ip  Potatoes. 

Shave  raw  potatoes  into  the  thinnest 
possible  slices,  drop  a  a  few  at  a  time 
mto  a  saucepan  of  hot  lard  and  let  fry  to 
a  deep  yellow  color.  Drain  them  well, 
keep  hot  in  a  colander  set  in  a  pan, 
sprinkle  with  fine  salt.  They  curf  up 
like  shavings  if  sliced  thin  enough.  Not 
really  necessary  to  dry  each  slice  on  a 


Busy  day  in  the  kitchen  and  dinner 
must  stand  back  and  make  itself  small. 
Fruit  is  very  abundant  and  cheap  and  the 
hostess  and  that  one  of  her  hired  girls 
that  has  the  biggest  arms  are  twisting  and 
squeezing  currants  and  raspberries  in 
strong  t9wels  expressing  the  juice  to  boil 
down  with  equal  weight  of  sugar  to  make 
jellv.  It  is  a  pressing  business  which 
makes  the  girl  red  in  the  face,  as  pressing 
might  be  expected  to  do,  and  the  land- 
lady herself  has  her  lips  c^'iriously  set  as 
she  says  she  is  "afraid  somebody  will  be 
very  much  annoyed  by  their  putting  up 
fruit  in  the  kitcken,  but — ." 

I  don't  know  what  the  final  but,  was  in- 
tended to  mean,  unless  it  was : 
"But  when  she  will  she  will,  ym  may 

depend  on't. 
And  when  she  won't  she  won't,  and 

there's  an  end  on't." 
However,  the  landlady  is  very  kindly 
disposed  and  interested,  as  this  is  Mr. 
Farewell's  birthday,  and  a  little  supper  is 
in  preparation  to  celebrate  the  anniver- 
sary. The  cakes  are  auready  ornamented 
with  initials  and  dates  on  them  as  large 
as  life  and  wreathed  with  roses,  but  care- 
fully hidden  away  to  guard  against  spring- 
ing the  surprise  too  soon.  The  chickens 
are  already  boiling  for  salad,  Lnd  the 
manager  went  to  the  depot  this  time  un- 
der heavy  injunctions  not  to  forget  the 
lemons.  Mrs.  Farewell  also,  made 
a  special  request  of  me  that  the  frosting 
on  the  cakes  be  of  such  a  nature  that  it 
can  be  sliced  evenly  with  the  cake  itself, 
whether  the  slices  be  thick  or  thin ;  not 
break  off"  in  the  annoying  way  of  their 
town  confectioner's  cakes  as  soon  as  the 
cake  is  cut.  Requests  like  these  are  im- 
perial orders  and  must  be  obeyed,  and — 
"Our  praises  are  our  wages."  —  (Shakes- 
peare.) 

But,  Maryl  It  is  time  now  to  set  your 
preserving  kettle  away  off"  the  stove  until 
after  dinner;  it  would  break  my  heart  to 
see  you  all  starving  to  death  at  one 
o'clock  precisely. 


Dinner. 

Soup— Scotcl/ barley  broth 
cents.) 


(6  qts. 


73 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


Trout  a  la  Bechamel  (No.  684;  4  lbs 
gross,  and  sauce,  42  cents.) 

Boiled  corned  beef  and  cabbage  (i  lb, 
beef,  10  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (not  in  demand,  some  from 
previous  day  enough.) 

Spring  lamb  (4  lbs,  net,  48  cents.) 

Stuffed  shoulder  mutton  (No.  686  ;3  lbs, 
net,  boned,  and  stuffing,  35  cents.) 

Macaroni  and  tomatoes, Italienne  (No. 
65 ;  Vz  lb,  macaroni,  y^  can  tomato,  2 
ozs,  cheese,  etc.,  14  cents  for  about  14 
orders.) 

Summer  beets  in  sauce  (5  beets  and 
sauce,  6  cents.) 

Cabbage  (2  heads,  10  cents.) 

Onions  in  cream  (5  cents.) 

Potatoes  browned,  mashed  (8  cents.) 

Baked  corn  starch  pudding,  red  cherry 
syrup  for  sauce  (No.  689;  24  cents." 


Raspberry  pie,  apple  pie  (used  canned 
apples,  3  pies,  30  cents.) 

Vanilla  ice  cream  (3  pts,  cream,  etc., 
40  cents.) 

Angel  food  cake  (No.  2 ;  doubled,  25 
cents.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers,  condi- 


mel ;  because  that  is  the   name   of  the 
sauce,  it  is  always  a  cream-white  dish.  ^ 

If  you  put  your  fish  to  bake  in  plain 
milk  or  cream  at  fiibt,  exj:^cting  to  thicken 
the  sauce  when  the  fish  is  done,  you  find 
that  it  has  been  curdled  by  the  gelatine 
from  the  fish  and  has  an  unsightly  ap- 
pearance. Make  the  cream  sauce  first, 
of  rich  milk,  a  little  minced  onion,  butter 
and  flour,  pour  it  boiling  hot  over  the  fish 
in  a  baking  pan;  bake  about  '2>^  hour 
basting  twice ;  at  last  add  a  little  cream 
and  chopped  parsley.  Serve  in  small 
plates  with  Parisienne  potatoes  plain 
steamed  in  the  same. 


685— Corned  Beef  and  Cabbage, 


ments,  pickles  35. 

Ik  24, 


cream  10,  cofiee. 


Butter  lo,  mill 
tea,  sugar  16. 

Total,  $4  \2\  34  persons;   about   12 
cents  a  plate. 


683~Scotch  Barley  Broth. 


Fake  the  trimmings  of  the  lamb,  tne 
shank,  shoulder  bone  and  neck  of  mut- 
ton, and  add  spare  pieces  of  other  meats; 
boil  them  in  eight  quarts  of  water  from 
early  morning  until  10  or  1 1  o'clock.  Boil 
6  tablespoonfuls  of  barley  for  6  quarts  of 
soup  in  a  separate  saucepan. 

Strain  off  the  broth,  skim  well,  put  in  2 
cupfuls  of  turnip,  carrott  and  onion  cut 
in  small  dice,  some  chopped  parsley,  salt 
and  pepper,  the  barley  already  cooked 
and  rinsed  off  in  hot  water;  boU  till  the 
vegetables  are  done,  thicken  very  slightly 
and  add  a  cupful  of  lean  meat  from  the 
neck  of  mutton,  also  cut  in  dice. 


The  beef  having  been  well  corned,^  the 
next  requisite  to  make  it  a  good  dish  is  to 
give  it  plenty  of  time  to  boil  tender.  The 
cabbage  should  be  boiled  separately  and 
chopped  and  seasoned  at  last  with  the  fat 
from  the  beef  boiler.  If  cooked  together 
the  beef  left  to  slice  cold  is  too  strongly 
flavored.  Serve  the  cabbage  in  a  flat 
dish  with  a  slice  of  beef  on  top. 


686— Stuffed  Shoulder  of  IV!utton. 


Take  out  the  bone,  lay  a  thin  covering 
of  well-seasoned  bread  «^tuffing  upon  the 
meat;  roll  up,  tie  with  twine  and  cook 
the  same  as  rolled  brisket  of  veal ;  No. 
171-  

637— Beets  in  Butter  Sauce. 


684 — Trout  a  la  Bechamel. 


Another  name  for  it  is  trout  baked  in 
cream.  As  previously  stated  at  No.  662, 
any  dish  of  fish  or  meat  that  is  in  cream 
sauce  is  allowably  designated  a  la  Becha- 


Beets  should  not  be  cut  before  cooking 
as  they  lose  their  juice  and  color.  Boil 
about  an  hour,  rub  off  the  skin  in  cold 
water,  cut  up  into  a  saucepan,  add  2  cups 
water,  Vz  cup  vinegar,  half  as  much  but- 
ter, salt,  and  flour  thickening  to  niake  a 
moderately  thick  sauce  when  it  boils. 


688— Onions  in  Cream  Sauce. 

Boil  in  plenty  of  water  and  pour  the 
water  away  entirely,  as  it  is  dark  colored. 
Make  sufficient  cream  sauce  well  salted 
in  another  saucepan  and  put  the  onions 
in. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


74 


689-BLked    Corn    Siarch    Pudding 


6  cups  milk — 3  pints. 

6  heaped  tablespoons  starch — 7  ounces. 

3     do  do  sugar. 

5^  cup  butter — 2  ounces. 

5  or  0  yolks — (left  over  from  making 
white  cake.) 

Flavoring  extract,  pinch  salt. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it — 
which  prevents  burning  at  bottom.  Mix 
up  the  starch  with  a  little  cold  milk  and 
then  some  hot,  pour  quickly  into  the  boil- 
ing milk  in  the  kettle  and  almost  im- 
mediately, or,  as  soon  as  fairly  mixed, 
take  it  off  the  fire.  ^  Beat  in  the  butter,  the 
yolks  beaten  up  with  a  spoonful  of  milk, 
flavor  then,  bake  in  a  pan  or  earthen  dish 
about  20  minutes.  Too  much  cooking 
causes  starch  puddmg  to  turn  watery. 
Serve  with  sauce  made  of  part  fruit  juice, 
sugar,  water  and  starch  simmered  clear 
and  bright. 


Supper. 

Oatmeal  (3  cups,  5  cents.) 

Beefsteak  (12  orders,  20  cents.) 

Calfs  liver  breaded    (12    orders,    18 

cents  ) 
Broiled  bacon  (2  orders,  4  cents.) 
Codfish  in  cream  (4  orders,  ?  cents.) 
Cold  meats  (^  lb,  charged  dinner.) 
Potatoes  French  fried  and  baked  (8 

cents.) 
Rolls  (30,  12  cents.) 
French  coffee  cakes  (No.  262;  made 

30,  20  cents.) 
Pears  in  syrup  (2  cans  California,  50 

cents.) 
Cake,  cookies,  ginger  snaps  (15  cents.) 
Milk,  cream  44;  butter  22. 
Coffee,  tea,  sugar  21 ;  bread  6. 
Total,  $2  50;  35  persons;  little  over  7 

cents  a  plate. 


690— A  Birthday  Party  Supper   Pre- 
pared without  Eggs. 

Gotten  up  without  using  ci^gs,  to  show 
that  it  can  be  done ;  and  that  if  it  be  well 
done  the  party  will  never  discover  any 
difference. 

MENU. 
Cold  Roast  Chicken  garnished  with  Jelly. 


Sandwich  Rolls  with  Potted  Tongue. 

Pickles.  Lettuce. 

Lobster  Salad. 

Calf's  Foot  Jelly  (Lemon  and  Raspberry  Flavori  . 

Panacheelce  Cream. 

Florentine  Meringue.  Chocolate  Layer  Cake 

Birthday  Fruit  Cake,  Ornamented. 

White  Citron  Cake.    Neai>olitan  Cake. 

Nuts.  Raisins. 

Lemonade.  Coffee. 


This  was  for  a  party  of  20  persons  who 
did  not  really  need  to  eat  an  extra  meal ; 
it  was  a  supper  table  for  a  social  family 
gathering  and  so  provided  for,  the  quanti- 
ties would  not  be  sufficient  for  a  calcula- 
tion for  a  paid  supper. 

Cost  of  material : 

Roasted  breasts  only  of  4  chickens 
equal  2  chickens,  ^o  cents. 

Savory  jelly  for  decoration,  i  quart,  25 
cents. 

20  Sandwiches  of  potted  tongue  and 
butter,  20  cents. 

Lobster  salad,  lettuce  and  pickles,  25 
cents. 

Calfs  foot  jelly  3  pints,  45  cents. 

Ice  cream,  2  quarts,  70  cents. 

Florentine  meringue,  15  cents. 

Chocolate  layer  cake,  15  cents. 

Fruit  cake  ornamented,  weight  5  lbs., 
70  cents. 

Other  cakes  small  amounts,  10  cents. 

Nuts  and  raisins  about  3  lbs.,  60  cents. 

Lemonade  iced,  45  cents. 

Coffee,  cream  and  sugar,  15  cents. 

Total,  $4  65 ;  20 persons; over  23  cents 
a  plate. 


691— Cold  Chicken  with  Aspic   Jelly. 

The  supper  being  for  20  persons,  took 
4  large  spring  chickens  and  of  these  used 
only  the  breasts  to  roast  cut  off  raw,  and 
the  rest  of  the  chickens  reserved  for  a 
side  dish  for  next  day's  dinner.  After 
roasting  in  a  small  pan  about  half  an 
hour  set  them  away  to  get  cold,  and  at 
night  sliced  thinly  enough  for  16  individ- 
ual dishes  to  be  set  at  intervals  along  the 
table,  ornamented  ^vith  colored  jelly,  and 
the  remainder  kept  in  reserve  in  case  of 
further  orders. 


7S 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


692— Calf's  Foot  o*-  Aspic  or  Savory 
Jelly. 

Colored  jelly  in  ornamental  shapes  was 
the  distinguishing  characteristic  of  Car- 
erne's  system  in  cookery,  particularly  as 
he  employed  it  to  produce  gorgeous  effects 
of  light  and  color  in  the  elaborately  dec- 
orated set  tables  and  grand  banquets  of 
his  time ;  classic  figures  in  wax,  ^  waxen 
leaves  and  borders  and  scenic  designs  are 
.the  distinguishing  characteristic  of  the 
later  system  origmated  (or,^  rather  re- 
suscitated, for  there  is  nothing  new)  by 
the  court  cooks  at  Vienna,  and  fosterea 
and  encouraged  by  the  emperor  and  em- 

Eresj  themselves,  as  if  they  would  fain 
ave  an  original  system  for  their  own 
court  and  following,  not  borrowed  from 
the  French. 

The  extent  of  the  impression  made  by 
Careme  upon  the  English  cooks  and  con- 
fectioners, then,  might  almost  be  meas- 
ured by  the  frequency  of  the  dishes  in 
aspic  and  the  offers  of  brilliant  sweet 
jellies  among  the  confections  for  sale  in 
the  shops;  tne  prevalence  of  the  German 
methocfe  by  the  frequency  of  the  waxen 
Neptunes,  dolphins,  forests  and  flowers 
worked  on  the  stands  which  hold  up  the 
dishes  at  any  elaborate  exhibition  of 
culinary  skill.  The  essential  part  of  the 
cookery,  that  which  affects  the  eatable 
part  of  the  dishes  cannot  in  the  nature  of 
thmgs  differ  much,  it  is  only  a  divergence 
of  externals  and  it  has  to  be  said  of  the 
dishes  in  jelly  that  they  are  at  least  all 
eatable,  the  savory  ornaments  even  more 
so  perhaps  than  the  meat  itself. 

if  there  could  be  an  American  dis- 
tinctive style  it  would  be  marked  by  the 
use  of  fruit  jellies,  cranberry  sauce  and 
jelly  with  game,  apples,  pears  and  peaches 
m  compotes  and  pickles  sweet  as  well  as 
sour,  such  things  as  Careme  had  an 
inklingof  when  he  built  up  his  *'supremes 
of  truits" — pyramidal  forms  of  fruits  pre- 
served whole  and  decorated  with  straw- 
ernes  and  green  angelica. 
But  the  simple  style  of  individual  ser- 
vice now  so  universally  employed  while 
it  brings  into  use  a  great  number  of  small 
dishes,  gbsses  and  silver-ware  almost 
precludes  the  use  of  any  method  of  oma- 
meniation  beyond  such  borders  and 
sprinklings  as  may  be  formed  in  the  act 
of  dishing  the  food. 


693— ro    Make    Calfs    Foot     Jelly. 

For  reasons  named  in  the  preceding 
article  if  in  England  or  France  we  write 
jelly  it  is  understood  first  to  mean  gela- 
tine jelly,  whether  savory  like  the  jelly  o 
head-cheese  or  sweet  aiid  wine  flavored, 
but  in  the  United  States  it  is  taken  to 
mean  jellied  fruits.  So  if  we  find  our- 
selves at  some  country  resort  where  the 
landlady  and  all  her  maidservants  are 
busy  making  currant^  gooseberry,  rasp- 
berry and  apple  jelhes  to  put  away  for 
winter  use  and  we  have  to  make  at  the 
same  time  ornamental  clear  jelly  of  Car- 
eme's  own  sort  with  which  to  decorate  a 
birthday  supper  table,  we  must  call  it 
calfs  foot  jelly,  lest  there  be  an  impres- 
sion that  we  have  been  surreptitiously 
dipping  into  the  wrong  kettles. 


I  To  make  the  jelly  really  of  calves  feet 
'  as  it  used  to  be  forty  or  fifty  years  ago, 
you  first  put  on  2  feet  in  4  quarts  of 
water,  simmer  for  6  or  8  hours,  and  the 
feet  will  be  so  nearly  dissolved  that  the 
liquor  that  remains — which  will  measure 
about  2  quarts  when  strained  off— will 
set  in  strong  jellv  when  cold.  It  has 
then  to  be  freed  from  fat,  sweetened, 
spiced  and  clarified  in  all  respects  the 
same  as  the  gelatine  jelly  of  Nos.  465  and 
466;  that  is  if  to  be  a  lemon  or  other  sweet 
jelly,  but  if  to  be  savory  jelly  it  will  be 
seasoned  something  like  a  savory  dish  of 
meat« 

694 — How  to  Serve  Colored  Jellies-- 
Five  Ways, 

1.  Pour  the  jelly  (No.  465 ;)  when  made 
into  soup  plates  or  bright  pans  quite 
shallow.  Set  on  ice.  Cut  it  in  diamond 
shapes  when  set,  and  put  one  piece  of 
each  color  in  small  stem  glasses,  get 
three  glass  cake  stands,  set  one  on  tl  e 
other,  they  being  of  three  sizes ;  set  the 
glasses  of  jelly  upon  them  for  a  pyramid 
of  jelly  for  the  center  of  the  table. 

2.  Cut  thejelly  in  diamonds  or  squares 
and  serve  in  ice  cream  saucers  individu- 
ally with  cake. 

3.  Pour  the  jelly  into  small  custard 
cups,  or  individual  ornamental  jelly 
moulds  or  other  small  form,  run  a  pen- 
knife around  to  loosen  and  shake  out 
the  form  of  jelly  on  to  the  individual  ice- 
cream plate. 


SAN  J^RANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


76 


4.  Cool  the  jelly  in  the  ordinary  stamped 
jelly  moulds,  dip  in  warm  water  when 
wanted,  turn  out  the  shape  and  place 
on  large  dishes  along  the  table,  to 
be  served  with  a  spoon  or  the  people  to 
help  each  other. 

5.  Cool  the  jelly  in  the  large  orna- 
mental border  moulds  which  have  a 
hollow  middle.  When  perfectly  cold 
turnout  the  border  of  jelly — first  dipping 
the  mould  a  moment  in  warm  water — on 
to  a  cake  stand  and  fill  the  center  cavity 
with  whipped  cream. 


695— To  Make  Savory  or  Aspic  Jelly. 

Aspic  is  the  French  cooks'  name  for 
it.  It  is  the  jelly  formed  by  boiling  meat 
down  till  the  liquor  will  set  when  cold,  the 
ielly,  for  example  of  head  cheese,  or  of 
boiled  cfhickens  when  the  liquor  has  nearly 
all  boiled  away,and  if  it  is  the  intention  to 
make  jelly  of  such  liquor  an  extra  calf  s 
foot  or  pi^'s  foot  or  two  will  be  thrown  in 
at  the  beginning  of  the  boUing  and  make 
the  liquor  stronger.  This  being  the  jelly 
in  the  rough  state — seasoned  as  soup 
would  be  to  make  it  taste  ^ood  and  relish- 
— in  order  to  change  its  appearance 
from  dull  gray  into  an  article  ot  sparkling 
transparency  it  is  necessary  to  clarify  it 
by  boiling  white  of  eggs  and  lemon  juice 
in  it  and  straining  it  through  a  flannel 
jelly  bag. 

1  he  making  ot  savory  jelly  is  not  an 
abstruse  and  foreign  affau:,  but  anyone 
who  takes  pleasure  m  such  things  finding 
at  hand  some  meat  liquor  that  has  set  in 
jelly  finn  enough  to  cut  with  a  knife  can 
clarify  it  and  use  it  to  set  off  a  luncheon 
or  supper  table  in  a  way  that  is  by  no 
means  common. 

But  when  there  is  no  meat  jelly  already 
formed  make  some  by  dissolving  an  ounce 
oi  sheet  gelatine  in  a  auart  of  good  soup 
stock,  season  it  niceiy,  let  it  get  quite 
cold  to  remove  the  grease,  then  melt  and 
clarify  it  as  for  sweet  jelly  at  No.  465. 

Make  different  tints  by  adding  burnt 
sugar  dissolved  in  boiling  water  for  amber 
and  brown,  and  cochineal  or  beet  juice 
for  pink  and  red. 

Extra  fine  jelly,  more  brilliant  than  is 
ever  seen  in  the  restaurant  windows,  is 
made  by  putting  it  through  the  clarifying 
process  twice,  allowmg  a  little  in  the 


measure  for  the  inevitable  loss  of  quan- 
tity m  the  repeated  boiling  and  filtering ; 
and  a  correspondingly  enhanced  flavor  is 
obtained  by  adding  a  proportion  of 
sherry. 

698— Ornamenting  with  Aspic  Jelly 

1.  Place  thui  slices  of  breast  of  chicken 
or  turkey  in  individual  platters.  Chop 
some  jelly  quite  small,  put  it  in  a  paper 
cornet,  snip  off  the  end  and  squeeze  the 
jelly  through  in  a  cord  around  the  edge 
of  the  dish  or  in  patterns  the  same  as  the 
ornamental  frosting  of  a  cake. 

2.  Chop  some  of  the  brightest  jelly 
not  very  small,  and  sprinkle  about  a 
teaspoonful  over  the  sliced  meat  or 
around  upon  a  salad.  • 

3.  Cool  the  jelly  in  plates  quite  shal- 
low and  when  set  cut,  it  in  triangular 
shapes,  large  or  small  in  pioportion  to 
the  size  of  dishes  to  be  ornamented,  and 
set  the  pieces  in  order  around  the  edge 
ot  the  dish. 

4.  Pour  the  jelly  upon  the  thin  sliced 
meat  in  large  platier,  just  enough  to 
cover,  set  it  on  ice  and  when  it  has  be- 
come firm  cut  out  the  slices  with  the 
coating  of  jelly  upon  them  and  ornament 
the  edges  with  minced  jelly  and  parsley. 

5.  Take  a  solid  boneless  piece  of 
cooked  and  pressed  meat  like  head 
cheese,  pressed  corned  beef  or  tongue, 
boned  turkey  or  chicken  or  liver  pate  and 
put  it  in  a  mould  or  pan  that  is  a  little 
too  large  for  it,  fill  up  the  mould  with 
melted  jelly — there  should  be  a  quarer 
inch  or  more  space  for  the  jelly  on  all 
sides  and  underneath — make  it  quite 
cold,  turn  out  by  first  dipping  the  mould 
a  moment  in  warm  water  and  then  slice 
the  meat  with  border  of  jelly  adhering  to 
each  slice. 


697— To  Clarify  Jelly  withe ut  Eggs. 

Use  lean  beef  chopped  fine,  about  4 
ounces  to  a  quart.  This  is  the  way  ^  fine 
consommes  are  made  clear,  and  it  is 
as  good  for  jelly.  Mix  the  minced  beef 
thoroughly  with  a  little  cold  water,  stir  it 
into  the  jelly  after  it  has  been  boiled 
once,  (without  any  white  of  eggs)  then 
boil  again  and  strain  through  the  jelly 
bag.  It  b  the  albumeii  in  beef  that  has 
the  effect  in  clearing  the  fluid  it  is  boiled 


77 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


in.  I 

"But  won't  it  make  it  taste?"  somebody  : 
says,  as  the  mineed  beef  goes  into  the  I 
sweet  jelly. 

"No ;  only  like  calf  s  foot  ielly  ;'*  indeed 
it  is- an  improvement,  for  all  gelatine  has 
a  slightly  unpleasant  flavor  which  the 
fresh  beef  removes.  Of  course  if  white 
of  eggs  can  be  had  as  well  as  not  there  is 
no  need  to  resort  to  the  substitute,  yet, 
it  is  often  very  convenient  to  know  how 
to  do  without. 

698— Tongue  Sandwiches. 

Make  dough  as  for  French  rolls,  after 
the  last  kneading  roll  it  out  extremely 
thin,  brush  the  sheet  all  over  with  melted 
butter  and  double  it  upon  itself;  roll  it 
again  and  when  it  has  stood  a  minute  or 
two  to  lose  the  tendency  to  draw  out  of 
shape  cut  out  with  a  biscuit  cuttei,  place 
in  pans,  brush  over  with  butter,  rise 
nearly  an  hour  and  bake.  These  are  flat 
round  rolls  that  will  pull  apart  when 
done.  Spread  one  halt  with  butter  the 
other  with  potted  tongue  and  put  them 
together.  Or,  use  potted  tongue  with 
plain  sliced  bread. 


699— Potted  Tongue. 

Boil  a  corned  tongue  3  hours,  if  a  beef 
tongue,  or  until  tender.  Dip  it  in  cold 
water  and  peel  off"  the  skin.  Cut  up  and 
mince  small,  then  pound  it  to  a  paste. 
Melt  two  large  cupfuls  of  butter  and  pre- 
pare a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  ground 
spices,  half  mace  and  the  rest  cloves, 
nutmeg  and  cayenne.  Add  the  spices  to 
the  tongue,  and  a  little  salt  besides,  and 
most  of  the  clear  part  of  the  melted  bui- 
ter,  and  pound  it  all  together.  Press  it 
into  cups  or  small  jars  tightly  to  exclude 
the  air  and  pour  the  rest  of  the  clear  but- 
ter on  top.    Keep  covered  in  a  cool  place. 


700— Lobster   Salad     without    May- 
onaise. 

Cut  white  heart  lettuce  in  shreds  and 
across  quite  fine ;  break  about  the  same 
amount  of  lobster  in  small  pieces  but 
without  mashing  it,  season  both  with 
celery,  celery-salt,  salt,  cayenne,  oil  and 
vinegar  enough  to  moisten,  mix  together, 
serve  on  individual  dishes  ornamented 


with  cooked  beets  stamped  out  in  shapes. 
Can  be  made  likewise  with  finely  minced 
cabbage  with  some  thick  cream,  salt  and 
pepper  stirred  in  and  the  lobster  on  top* 

701— Panachee,  or    Tri«colored    eel- 
Cream. 


The  same  as  Neapolitan,  No.  227; 
which  see  for  directions  and  use  of 
molds.  The  bill-of-fare  writers  get  tired  of 
and  having  the  same  thing  over  and  over 
instead  of  repeating  Neapolitan  they  call 
itpanachee,  it  being  like  panachee  jelly, 
which  is  of  three  colors  in  layers,  and 
named  after  the  tn-colored  feather  which 
used  to  be  worn  in  the  hat  as  the  sign  or 
badge  of  the  French  republican. 

1  o  save  trouble  on  the  occasion  of  this 
party  supper,  the  2  quarts  of  white  ice 
cream  frozen  with  the  dinner  cream  in 
the  morning  was  divided,  and  half  of  it 
colored  with  caramel  and  cinnamon  and 
frozen  again  in  a  imall  pail  set  in  a  wash- 
tub  of  small  ice  and  salt.  The  red  was 
cherry  juice  taken  from  the  preserving 
kettles  and  mixed  with  water,  then  frozen 
the  same  wav  and  all  three  kinds  put  in 
brick  moulas  and  packed  down  for  3 
hours.    Cost  67  cents  for  3  quarts. 

702— Florentine  Meringue. 

Roll  out  a  sheet  of  puff  paste  thin  and 
cover  a  baking  pan  bottom  with  it,  spread 
jelly  or  preserves  upon  it  and  pake. 
VVhip  up  some  mermgue  and  mix  in 
chopped  almonds  or  desiccated  cocoanut 
and  spread  that  on  top  of  the  florentine, 
sift  sugar  on  top  and  bake.  It  is  like  the 
fruit  meringues  in  a  general  way  but 
ought  to  be  thm,  to  cut  in  large,  but  flat 
strips.  The  meringue  can  be  made  with 
gelatine  instead  of  white  of  eggs  if  sa 
needed. 


703— Neapolitan  Cake. 


The  new  fashion  for  it  is  to  make  layer 
cakes  of  three  colors,  white,  yellow,  (or 
pink)  and  chocolate,^  spread  jelly  and 
build  up  to  6  layers  high ;  trim  tr.e  edges 
and  ice  it  all  over.  Three  kinds  can  be 
made  without  eggs,  by  using  Nos.  655  and 
632 ;  and  making  part  of  the  latter  pink 
with  raspberry  juice.     The  old  fashion 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


78 


was  to  make  pound  jelly  cake  6  or  8 
layers  high  ana  ice  it  and  ornament. 

704— Ornamented  Fruit  Cake. 


Cut  a  pound  of  citron  yi  strips  and  add 
to  the  mixture  No.  68i.  Bake  in  a  large 
round  mold  previously  lined  with  but- 
tered paper.  Put  on  two  coats  of  icing, 
a  border  around^  and  if  for  a  birthday 
party  put  up  the  mitials  of  the  person's 
name  m  letters  of  lace-work  icing  6  or  8 
inches  high  according  to  plan  to  be  found 
described  in  succeeding  pages. 

705~Cake   Frosting   That   Will    Not 
Break  Off. 


Our  birthday  cake  was  required  to  be 
cut  in  pieces  and  sent  hither  and  thither, 
a  piece  or  two  to  Basswood  City  and  some 
more  to  Lakeport,  and  it  would  have 
been  extremely  annoying  had  the  frosting 
all  broke  away  on  the  first  attempt  to  cut 
it,  and  yet  that  is  just  what  the  common 
raw  icing  will  always  do  if  made  with 
white  of  eggs  alone.  But  if  you  dissolve 
a  little  gelatine  in  hot  water  in  a  cup, 
have  it  like  thicic  mucilage,  then  use  it 
and  one  or  two  whites  of  eggs  mixed  in 
to  beat  up  the  sugar  with;  the  frosting 
will  stay  on  the  cake  and  cut  as  easy  as 
a  piece  of  cheese.    For  a  rule,  take : 

2  tablespoons  dissolved  gelatine. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 

2  cups  sugar. 

Put  all  in  a  bowl  and  stir  with  a  wooden 
paddle.  To  making  icing  or  frosting 
easily  it  is  best  to  have  it  as  thick  as 
dough  at  first,  it  soon  turns  thin  as  the 
sugar  dissolves,  when  it  becomes  too 
thick  with  long  stirring  it  can  be  reduced 
with  warm  water  by  the  teaspoon  ful,  or 
with  white  of  egg. 

A  few  drops  of  acetic  acid,  or  lemon 
juice,  or  cream  tartar  added  to  icing 
whitens  and  stiffins  it.  Add  lemon  or 
vanilla  extract  to  flavor. 


706— Boiled  Icing,  That   Will 
Break. 

ij4  cups  sugar. 

4  tablespoons  water. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 


Not 


Set  the  water  and  sugar  on  to  boil,have 
it  just  like  making  candy.  Whisk  the 
whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  pour  the  boiling 
sugar  into  the  whites,  stir  up  and  spread 
on  the  cake  immediately.  If  boiled 
enough  it  will  set  firm  as  soon  as  cold, 
if  not  set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  dry. 


707— Chocolate  Boiled 
Eggs. 


Icing   without 


I  pound  sugar— 2  cups. 

5^  teacup  water. 

4  ounces  common  chocolate,  grated — 
I  cup. 

Boil  all  together  almost  to  candy  point, 
flavor  with  vanilla  when  partly  cooled, 
beat  a  short  time,  spread  over  the  cake. 


708— CI;ocolate  Icing  Not  BoiipH 


1  pound  sugar — 2  cups— either  granu- 
latea  or  powdered  will  do. 

6  whites  of  eggs. 

4  ounces  grated  common  chocolate — 
I  cup. 

2  teaspoons  vanilla  extract. 

Put  the  sugar  and  whites  of  eggs  to- 
gether into  a  bowl  and  beat  rapidly  with 
a  wooden  spoon  or  paddle, in  a  cool  place 
for  about  ten  minutes,  or  until  you  have 
good  white  frosting.  Set  the  grated 
chocolate  on  the  side  of  the  stove  to  melt 
merely  hy  the  heat,  without  anything 
added  to  it.  Pour  it  to  the  frosting  in 
the  bowl,  add  flavor,  beat  up  and  use  to 
cover  cakes  or  spread  between  layers. 

Speaking  of  cake  glaze  and^  icings, 
however,  there  are  two  young  friends  of 
mine,  the  head  and  second  baker  at  the 
Gondolier-Grand  Hotel,  at  Firefly  Grove, 
who  have  their  ambition  aroused  even 
now  while  I  am  writing  this,  trying  how 
many  and  how  choice  a  lot  of  small  cakes 
and  trifles  they  can  send  in,  in  the  silver 
baskets  daily,  and  are  much  pleased  with 
the  soft  glazes  or  icings  of  tne  foUowin^^ 
receipts,  which  they  found  in  the  Ameri- 
can Pastry  Cook.  They  find  a  number 
of  uses  for  them  and  are  glad  of  having 
so  many  kinds  and  colors.  Another 
friend,  a  grizzly  bearded  old  partner  up 
north  was  using  them  one  day,  and  he 
remarked:  "Hal  that's  what  we  call 
bongdongt  eh?— you  know?'* 


79 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


"No— that  is  not  quite  fondant,  al 
though  it  is  as  good  for  these  uses.  To 
vcii^Q  fondant  yoM  must  have  a  saccharo- 
meter,  kettle  and  marble  slab,  etc.,  but 
these  fondant  icings  a  boy  or  girl  can 
make  with  a  tin  pan,  a  spoon  and  an  egg 
whip." 


little  practice.     Add  flavoring    extract 
when  neady  cold. 


709— Yellow  Glaze  or   Boiled  Icing. 

This  should  be  the  first  to  be  tried  as 
it  is  of  less  consequence  whether  the 
sugar  is  boiled  to  the  exact  point  for 
yolks  of  eggs  than  for  whites. 

2  cups  granulated  sugar — a  pound. 

y^  teacup  water — 6  tablespoons. 

6  yolks  of  eggs. 

Flavoring  extract. 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  for  5  minutes. 


711— Rose  Glaze  op  Boiled  Icing. 

^  The  same  as  the  preceding  with  color- 
ing to  make  it  pink.  Cherry  juice  or 
cochmeal  can  be  used. 


712— Chocolate  Glaze  or  aoiled  Icing. 

I  pound  sugrr. 
Kcup  water— 7  tablespoons. 
3  ounces  grated  common  chocolate— a 
cupful. 
3  eggs. 

Vanilla  flavoring. 
Boil  the  sugar,  water  and    chocolate 


or  until  a  drop  in  cold  water  sets  in  ( together  until  a  drop  m  the  water  sets  in 

"  candy.     Beat  the  eggs  and  add  the  boii- 

mg  candy  to  them  with  rapid  beating. 


candy  so  hard  it  can  be  hardly  flattened 
between  the  finger  and  thumb.  Have 
the  yolks  slightly  beaten  ready  in  a  bowl, 
pour  the  bubbling  syrup  to  them  quickly 
while  you  keep  beating  with  an  egg 
beater.  Set  over  the  fire  for  a  minute  or 
two  and  keep  beating  while  it  cooks  a 
little  more,  flavor  and  pour  it  over  sheets 
of  cake,  or  dip  small  cakes  in  it.  If  the 
sugar  was  boiled  enough  it  will  set  hard 
and  dry  as  soon  as  cold.  Is  improved  hy 
being  beaten  in  the  saucepan  until 
partly  cooled,  and  the  flavoring  should 
go  in  the  very  last  thing  to  avoid  loss  by 
boiling  out. 


drop 
Have 


710— White    Gaze   or    Boiled    Icing. 

2  cups  sugar. 

6  tablespoons  water. 

4  whites  of  eggs. 

Flavor. 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  until  a 
in  cold  water  sets  in  brittle  candy, 
the  whites  slightly  beaten  in  a  bowl,  pour 
the  boiling  sugar  to  them  while  you  beat 
very  rapidly.  Set  over  the  fire  again 
until  it  boils,  taking  care  to  keep  it  from 
burning.  Then  set  it  on  ^  ice  and  beat 
with  an  egg  beater  until  it  is  perfectly 
white  and  creamy  likeyb«^352«/,and  begins 
to  set.  Ice  cakes  with  it  or  dip  small 
cakes  in,  such  as  sponge  drops,  holding 
them  on  a  fork.  This  is  quick  and  easy 
after  the  first  trial ;  the  point  is  to  bou 
the  sugar  to  "the  crack,    ^>rx\*^^  f-^irt^e  o 


which  takes  a 


Dinner. 

J^uly  20. 

Soup— Consomme  Brunoise    (q  qts,  ^o 
cents.)  J  ^t   >  o 

Fillets  of  trout,  Spanish  style  (3  lbs, 
gross,  potatoes  and  sauce,  35  cents.) 
Potatoes  Brabant. 

Boiled  meats  (no  orders,  left  over  for 
supper,  etc.) 
Roast  beef  (2  lbs,  25  cents.) 
Roast  pork  (2  lbs,  22  cents.) 
Roast  veal  with  dressing  (2  lbs,  and 
dressing,  30  cents.) 

Epigramme  of  lamb,  sauce  Trianon 
(2  lbs,  and  sauce,  30  cents.) 
Potato  salad  (5  cents.) 
String  beans  5,  butter  beans  5,  cabbage 
2  heads  10  tomatoes  15,  potatoes   S— 4-? 
cents. 

Raspberry  drop  dumplings  with  sauce 
{30  dumplings  and  sauce,  17  cents.) 

Custard  pie  (2  with  i  qt,  milk,  8  eggs 
and  sugar,  20  cents.) 

Lemon  sherbet  (No.  179;  2  qts,  before 
freezing,  20  cents.) 

Angel  food  cake  (baked  thin,  frosted 
and  sliced,  22  cents.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers, 
diments  (average,  35  cents.) 
Milk  (9  quarts,  27  cents.) 
Cream  10,  coffee  10,  tea 
butter  10,  bread  6. 


con- 


3,  sugar  4, 


SAN  liRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


80 


Total* $4  04;  35  persons \\iVz  ceats  a 
plate. 


713— Consomme  Brunoise. 


5  quarts  clear  soup  stock. 

Yi  lb,  chopped  lean  beef. 

2  whites  of  eggs  to  clear  it, 

I  cup  green  cooked  peas. 

I  cup  carrot  and  turnip  and  leek  and 
celery  if  you  have  them  cut  in.  smallest 
dice. 

r  teaspoon  extract  of  meat. 

Draw  off  the  stock  free  from  grease, 
put  in  the  beef  and  white  of  egg  mixed 
with  some  cold  water  and  set  ic  on  to 
boil.  When  well  boiled  strain  through  a 
napkin  or  tammy  cloth  or  jelly  bag.  Cook 
the  vegetables  separately,  wash  them  off", 
season  the  consomme  with  salt  and  cay- 
enne and  add  meat  extract  (or  glaze  of 
your  own  making)  to  color  light  brown, 
and  then  the  vegetables. 


7R-Fillets  of  Trout  Spanish  Style. 


Cook  the  fish  this  way  when  you  have 
a  lot  of  small  ones,  such  as  brook  trout, 
or  lake  hemng.  Run  a  knife  along  both 
sides  of  the  back  bone  and  take  it  out. 
Take  the  two  sides,  double  them,  the 
meat  side  outwards,  lay  them  in  a  but- 
tered baking  pan  one  leaning  upon  the 
other  so  as  to  hold  it  in  shape,  and  so 
proceed  until  the  pan  has  all  it  will  con- 
tain, one  layer  deep^  the  boned  part  of 
the  fillets  of  fish  being  on  top.  Before 
putting  in  the  fish  strew  some  finely 
minced  onion  in  the  pan.  After  the  fish 
is  in,  sprinkle  salt  and  pepper,  sitt  over  a 
little  cracker  meal,  and  pour  in  enough 
light  colored  veal  gravy  mixed  with 
strained  tomato,  or  Spanish  stock  sauce 
(No.  78a;>  to  half  cover  the  fillets,  and 
bake  light  brown.  Dish  out  of  the  pan 
it  is  baked  in,  one  fillet  to  each  person,  a 
spoonful  of  the  sauce  and  a  few  potatoes 
of  any  baked  or  fried  kind  like  the  follow- 
ing in  the  same  plate. 


715— Potataes,  a  la  Brabant. 


Cut  raw  potatoes  in  dice,  medium  size 
and  perfect  cubes,  rejecting  the  uneven 
sides  and  ends.     Boil  them  in  water 


drain  off  before  they  break,  then  fry  in 
clean  lard  very  light  colored.  Sprinkle 
with  salt  and  finely  minced  parsley, 
Brabant  is  the  name  of  a  place — a  duchy. 

716— Epigramme  of  Lamb,  a  la  Tri- 
anon. 


Epigramme  is  the  French  cooks'  name 
for  the  brisket  or  breast  of  lamb.  After 
cutting  lamb  chops  for  breakfast  there 
will  be  three  or  four  of  these  briskets  on 
hand.  Saw  them  lengthwise  in  two,  boil 
for  half  an  hour  in  soup  stock  well  sea- 
soned, press  them  between  two  dishes. 
When  cold  bread  them  by  dipping  in  egg 
and  cracker  meal,  lay  in  a  pan,  pour  a 
little  oil,  clear  butter  or  drippings  oyer 
and  bake  light  brown.  To  serve :  divide 
in  pieces  about  4  or  5  ribs  wide,  place  a 
spoonful  of  sauce  in  the  dish  and  the  meat 
pressed  down  in  it.  It  does  not  do  well 
to  fry  it  after  breading,  the  bright  yel- 
low-orown  of  a  careful  bake  is  what 
makes  it  a  desirable  entree. 


7  r7— Sauce  Trianon. 

It  IS  a  yellow  sauce  made  of  \yhite 
butter  sauce  with  yolks  of  eggs  stirred 
in  to  color,  and  speckled  with  minced 
trufiies,  mushrooms,  shalots  and  white 
pepper.  Add  a  spoonful  of  white  wine 
or  little  dash  of  lemon  juice.  A  very 
small  quantity  of  such  a  sauce  can  be 
made  to  fill  the  bill  and  one  small  truf- 
fle out  of  a  bottle  and  four  or  five 
mushrooms  sliced  will  be  all  that  are 
needed.  Trianon  is  the  name  of  a  place 
— a  French  palace. 


718— Potato  Salad. 


Take  cold  boiled  potatoes,  slice  them 
thinly  so  that  the  vinegar  will  penetrate. 
For  a  bowl  of  sliced  potatoes  mince^ 
one  good  sized  onion  and  a  bunch  of 
parsley  and  throw  on  top,  also  salt  and 
white  pepper.  Pour  over  half  cup  pf 
olive  oil  and  mix  all  well.  If  you  mix 
all  with  oil  this  way  first  the  parsley  re- 
tains its  green  color,  which  vinegar 
used  first  takes  away.  Pour  oyer  half 
cup  of  vinegar  and  mix  by  turning  from' 
one  bowl  to  another  shortly  before  serv- 


8z 


COOKING  JPOR  PROFIT, 


in^.  A  pint  cupful  b  enough  at  such 
a  nouse  as  this  with  no  expense  worth 
counting  but  a  few  spoonfuls  of  oil, 
but  where  there  is  lunch  served  potato 
salad  is  a  leading  dish  and  not  a  cheap 
one  because  oil  must  be  used  plenti- 
fully. 


719— Raspberry    Dumplings 
Eggs  or  Powder. 


without 


W'Tien  rolls  are  made  in  the  morning 
instead  of  making  loaves  of  bread  of  the 
dough  that  remains  keep  it  cold  until  the 
middle  of  the  forenoon.  Then  roll  it 
out  on  the  table  to  a  thin  sheet — as  thin 
as  the  edge  of  a  dinner  plate.  Cut  it  all 
in  squares,about  2V2  inches,place  a  table- 
spoonful  of  fruit  in  the  middle  of  each 
and  lap  the  comers  over  the  top.  Pinch 
the  edges  together  a  little,  set  the  dump- 
lings in  a  greased  pan  and  also  brush  over 
the  tops  with  a  little  melted  lard  or  but- 
ter. Let  rise  about  45  minutes,  like  rolls. 
Have  a  large  pan  of  boiling  water — a 
baking  pan  will  do,  drop  the  dumplings 
in  and  cook  20  minutes  either  on  top  of 
the  stove  or.  in  the  oven.  Serve  with 
sauce,  either  No.  70;  or,  hard  sauce  or 
cream. 


D  nner. 

July  21. 

Soup — Green  com  (6  qts,  30  cents.) 

Boiled  muskalonge,  egg  sauce  (3  lbs, 
sauce  and  potatoes,  33  cents.) 

Potatoes  HoUandaise. 

Boiled  smoked  tongue  and  corned  beef 
(few  orders,  12  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (i  rib,  2  lbs,  26  cents.) 

Roast  lamb,  mint  sauce  {5  lbs,  60 
cents.) 

Fricassee  of  chicken,  Parisienne  (2 
chickens,  sauce,  etc.,  65  cents.) 

Haricot  of  mutton,  Bourgeoise  (13 
cents.) 

Summer  cabbage  2  heads  10,  beets  plain 
stewed  2,  tomatoes  12,  string  beans  6, 
potatoes  8 — 38  cents. 

Tapioca  custard  pudding  {2  qts,  20 
cents,  with  sauce,  25  cents.) 

Cherry  and  raspberry  pie  (2  pies,  16 
cents.) 

White  Mountain  ice  cream  (36  cents.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers,  condi- 
ments (average,  35  cents.) 


Bread,  butter  10,  coffee,  tea,  sugar  14. 
Milk  24,  cream  10. 

Total,  $447;  35  persons;  nearly  13 
cents  a  plate. 

720— Green  Corn  Soup. 

Any  good  simple  soup  not  specially 
flavored  may  have  grated  com  and  some 
milk  added  to  it  and  will  be  generally 
acceptable.  For  a  rule  for  30  to  35  per- 
sons take: 

5  quarts  soup  stock. 

I  or  2  quarts  milk. 

I  can  of  com  or  a  quart  of  green  coin 
grated. 

I  tablespoon  minced  onion. 

5^  lb,  salt  pork. 

Boil  a  carrot,  tumipand  onion  with  the 
meat,  bones  and  water  that  makes  the 
stock.  Cut  the  pork  in  dice  and  fry  it  light 
brown,  and  then  pour  away  the  fat,  boil 
up  the  milk  in  the  pork  pan  to  obtain  the 
flavor  of  the  frying,  and  pour  all  back 
into  the  stock  pot.  Strain  into  a  clean 
saucepan,  add  the  minced  onion,  the 
corn  mashed  or  grated,  boil  up  and  sea- 
son, and  sprinkle  a  little  parsley  finely 
minced. 


721— Boiled  Muskallonge. 


The  muskallonge  is  fish  like  the  pick- 
erel. It  is  convenient  sometimes  to  nave 
another  name  even  for  the  same  fish  for 
the  pur{X)ses  of  a  bill  of  fare.  Mark  off 
the  fish  in  individual  portions.  Have  the 
water  ready  boiling,  put  in  a  bay  leaf,  an 
onion  and  4  cloves  and  salt  and  piece  of 
lemon  if  at  hand,  drop  in  the  fish,  boil 
gently  at  the  side  of  the  range  not  over 
half  an  hour.  Serve  with  egg  sauce  or 
other  kinds  suitable  for  boiled  fish,  and 
a  spoonful  of  potato. 


722—Potatoes,  HoUandaise. 

Cut  raw  potatoes  in  quarters  lenghtwise 
as  if  to  be  fried,  then  trim  to  a  rough 
kidney  shape,  boil  in  salted  water,  take 
off  before  they  break,  drain,  and  sprinkle 
with  parsley,  melted  butter,  salt  and 
lemon  juice.  Serve  with  the  fish  on  the 
same  plate. 

There  used  to  be  a  Dutch  kidney  potato 
of  small  size  but  much  esteemed,  w^^^^ 
these  cut  potatoes  are  intended  to  imitate 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


82 


and,  like  those  of  Holland,    are  to  be 
simply  cooked. 


723— Fricassee  of  Chicken,  Parisienne. 


Cut  tender  chickens  in  joints,  pepper 
and  salt  and  roll  in  flour,  either  fry  or 
bake  brown^  using  enough  oil,  clarified 
butler  or  drippings  to  baste  with.  Make 
yellow  fricassee  sauce — that  is,  white 
sauce  with  yolk  of.egg  added  and  lemon 
juice  and  cayenne,  and  prepare  a  pint 
cupful  of  Parisienne  potatoes.  Serve 
sauce  in  the  dish,  piece  of  chicken  in  it, 
potatoes  around  and,  if  wished,  decorate 
further  with  button  mushrooms  same  size 
as  the  potatoes. 

Fricassee,  is  the  French  word  for 
fry,  and  seems  to  have  meant  fried 
chicken  with  sauce  at  first,  but  fricassees 
are  variously  put  up.  The  term  "Parisi- 
enne," is  one  of  the  convenient  designa- 
tions that,  like  "a  la  Russe,"  means  but 
little  and  does  no  harm.  Two  chickens 
can  be  cut  into  28  or  30  pieces. 


724 — Haricot  of  Mutton,  Bourgeoise. 


Haricot,  is  the  name  of  a  stew  of  meat 
with  vegetables  in  it.  Bourgeoise  signi- 
fies that  it  is  common — in  family  style. 
Haricots  is  also  the  French  for  beans. 
Cut  up  the  breast  and  neck  of  mutton, 
brown  it  first  in  a  pan  either  in  oven  or 
on  top  of  stove,  with  frequent  stirring. 
Then  put  in  a  saucepan  with  turnip,  car- 
rot and  onion  cut  in  large  pieces.  Stew 
till  tender,  season  plainly  with  salt  and 
depper  and  thicken  the  liquor. 

725— Beets  Plain. 


Boil  the  beets,  peel  in  cold  water,  cut 
them  in  dice  size  of  cherries,  season  with 
salt  and  one  spoonful  of  roast  meat  fat 
shaken  about  in  them  to  keep  them  from 
drying  out  and  serve  so  without  sauce. 


726— Tapioca  Custard  Pudding. 

I  heaping  cup  tapioca—^  pound. 

6  cups  milk — 3  pmts. 

Yi  cup  sugar— 4  ounces. 

I  ounce  butter— small  egg  size. 

4  eggs,  or  8  yolks. 


Crush  the  tapioca,  if  the  large  and 
rough  kind,  put  it  to  soak  in  half  the  milk 
for  2  hours. 

Boil  the  other  half  the  milk  \yith  the 
sugar  in  it,  stir  in  the  soaked  tapioca,  let 
simmer  slowly  at  the  side  or  in  a  pan  oi 
boiling  water  for  half  an  hour,  or  until 
the  tapioca  is  become  transparent  and 
well  cooked.  Then  stir  in  the  butter  and 
eggs  and  bake.  Serve  with  sauce.  This 
makes  over  2  quarts,  about  24  portions, 
costs  20  cents;  with  sauce  ij^  cents  each 
person. 


Dinner. 

July  22. 

Soup — Barley,  a  la  Princesse  (6  qts,  30 
cents.) 

Whitefish,  a  V  Espagnole  (3^  lbs, 
gross,^  and  sauce,  35  cents.) 

Julienne  potatoes. 

Boiled  meats  (nominal  to  fill  bill,  rarely 
ordered.) 

Roast  beef  (i  rib,  25^  lbs,  30  cents.) 

Roast  lamb  (4^  lbs,  50  cents.) 

Fricassee  of  veal,  Francaise  (15  orders, 
i^  lbs,  with  sauce,  and  garnishing,  25 
cents.) 

Brochettes  of  liver,  Bretonne  (10  or- 
ders, V/i  lbs,  18  cents.) 

Marrowfat  peas  20,  string  beans  8  corn 
I  can  15  potatoes  97-60  cents. 

Boiled  suet  pudding,  silver  sauce  (pud- 
ding 20  sauce  16 — 36  cents.) 

Covered  lemon  pie  (No.  22;  2  pies,  16 
cents.) 

Vanilla  ice  cream  ("^  pints  cream  and 
milk,  etc.,  35  cents.) 

Assorted  cake  (15  cents.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers,  condi- 
ments (average,  35  cents. ) 

Milk,  cream  34,  butter,  bread  14,  cof- 
fee, tea,  sugar  14. 

Total,  $4  38;  34  persons;  about  13 
cents  a  plate. » 

727 — Barley  Soup  a  la   Princess    or 
Consomme  a  \  Orge. 


Prepare  5  quarts  of  clear  consomme ; 
boil  y2  cup  pearl  barley  separately  until 
well  done,  then  wash  it  in  a  colander  in 
plently  of  water.  Cut  a  piece  of  carrot 
and  turnip  in  fine  dice  no  larger  than  the 
barley  grains  and  boil  a  few  minutes. 


Sj 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


strain  and  wash,  then  put  barley  and 
vegetables  in  the  consomme  just  before 
time  to  serve.  Orge,  is  the  French  name 
for  barley. 

728~Whitefish  a  \  Espagnole. 


yolks,  take  the  sauce  from  the  fire  before 
It  becomes  rough  with  curdling  of  the 
e^  and  strain  it  over  the  meat.  To 
garnish :  Cut  out  leaf  shapes  of  thin 
puff  paste,  egi^  over  and  bake  and  put  one 
or  two  in  each  dish  when  served. 


Anything  and  every  thing  you  may  meet 
with  m  a  bill  of  far2  that  is  a  V  Espagnole 
is  in  brown  meat  sauce,  either  cooked  in 
it  or  has  the  sauce  poured  over  it.  Fish 
cooked  in  this  way  is  more  like  meat  than 
in  any  other  form.  It  is  not  a  good  way 
with  a  soft  kind  of  fish  or  when  the  sauce 
is  too  dark.  A  nice  veal  gravy  and  a  firm 
whitefish  will  make  a  good  dish.  Split 
the  fish,  as  only  smallportions are  wanted 
to  be  served,  score  on  the  portions,  with- 
out cutting  through.  Brush  a  little  fat 
over  the  baking  pan,  lay  the  fish  skin 
side  up;  cut  carrot,  turnip  and  onion 
in  very  small  dice  and  strew  a  small  por- 
tion in  the  spaces  in  the  pan,  dredge  salt 
and  pepper  and  bake  about  15  minutes. 
Then  pour  in  enough  light  colored  veal 
gravy  or  Spanish  stock  sauce  (No.  784)  to 
come  half  way  up  and  bake  20  minutes 
longer,  basting  the  fish  with  the  gravy  and 
having  some  left  in  the  pan  to  serve  with 
the  fish.  Send  in  some  kind  of  potatoes 
in  the  same  plate. 


731— Brochette  of  Liver  a  la  Bretonne, 

Make  thin  slices  of  liver  and  equal  num- 
ber of  bacon  and  cut  them  in  squares  no 
much  larger  across  than  a  silver  quater,^ 
place  them  on  sk-wers  alternately,  have 
the  skewers  nearly  full.  Dip  in  egg  and 
cracker  meal  and  fry  light  brown,  ^erve 
whole  or  half  one  to  each  order,  slipping 
them  off  the  skewers  and  placing  in  the  dish 
first  a  spoonful  of  sauce,  made  by  frying 
minced  onion  light  brown,  adding  brown 
sauce,  a  spoonful  of  made  mustard  and 
same  of  vinegar.  Can  also  be  fried  with- 
out breading  and  served  on  toast. 

732~Boiled  Suet  Pudding. 


729— Potatoes  a  la  Julienne. 

Choose  the  longest  potatoes,  slice  them  j 
raw  very  thinly  and  then  cut  the  slices  in 
shreds  thin  as  shoestrings.     Fry  in  hot 
lard,  drain  well,  sprinkle  with  salt. 


730— Fricassee   cf   Veal,    Francaise. 


Take  veal  that  is  not  suitable  for  cut- 
lets and  cut  it  in  square  pieces,  put  in  a 
frying  pan  with  a  little  oil,  butter  or 
roast  meat  fat  and  fry  (saute)  over  the 
fire  until  it  is  light  brown.  Put  in  water 
or  stock  enough  to  cover,  add  a  minced 
onion  and  little  grated  nutmeg  and  let 
stew  until  tender.  Take  out  the  pieces 
of  meat  into  another  saucepan  so  that  you 
can  thicken  the  liquor,  which  requires 
about  I  spoonful  of  3 our  thickening  and 
2  yolks  of  eggs  or  according  to  quantity, 
and  add  salt,  pepper  and  juice  of  half  a 
lemmon.    Immediately  after  adding  the 


4  cups  flour— a  pound. 
2  large  cups  minced  suet — 6  ounces. 
I  cup  sugar — J^  pound. 
I  large  cup   raisins   or   currants — Y^ 
pound. 
I  cup  milk. 

Pinch  of  soda  and  little  salt. 

The  suet  should  be  selected,  free  from 
skin  and  meat  and  minced  very  fine.  Rub 
it  into  the  flour.  Put  in  the  other  in- 
gredients, stii  together  very  thoroughly. 
Tie  up  in  a  pudding  bag  and  boil  4  or  ^ 
hours.  Take  up  only  just  before  it  is 
wanted  as  it  is  best  when  first  taken  from 
the  pot.  Serve  slices  with  sauce.  Three 
pounds  costs  19  cents. 


733— Silver  Pudding  Sauce,  or  Sweet 
Velante. 

I  cup  powdered  sugar, 

Vz  cup  butter. 

3  whites  of  eggs. 

3  tablespoons  brandy  or  little  flavoring 
extract. 

It  is  hard  sauce  (No.  177)  improved  by 
having  whipped  white  ot  eeg  stirred  in 
while  it  is  still  soft.    It  should  be  made 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTES 


the  last  thing  before  dinner  and  then  kept 
cold  as  the  whites  go  down  with  standing. 

734— Pound  Cakes,   Assortsd   Kinds. 

4  cups  sugar — light  weight  of  2  pounds. 

4  small  cups  butter — \%  pounds. 

20  eggs. 

8  rounded  cups  flour— 2  pounds  good 
weight. 

Warm  the  butter  and  sugar  to  soften, 
then  stir  them  to  a  cream,  add  eggs  two 
at  a  time  and  work  them  in,  then  the  flour. 
No  powder  or  raising  of  any  kind  wanted 
but  a  good  beating  at  the  last  to  make 
the  cake  fine  grained,  and  pound  cake 
should  not  be  flavored. 

Having  made  the  above  you  can  bake 
part  of  it  m  a  deep  mould  for  pound 
cake;  spread  some  on  jelly  cake  pans 
for  jelly  cake  or  any  other  kind  of  layer 
cake ;  bake  one  sheet  thin  on  a  baking 
pan  and  frost  over  when  done  for  mer- 
ingue cake,  put  citron,  raisins  or  currants 
in  some  of  it,  or  mix  in  some  melted 
chocolate. 


Dinner. 

July  23. 

Soup — Puree  of  green  peas,  or  potage 
St.  Germaine  (6qts,  36  cents.) 

Fillets  of  whitefish  with  fine  herbs  (3 
lbs,  net  30,  mushrooms,  etc.,  15;  45 
cents.) 

Potatoes,  Victoria. 

Boiled  tongue  and  com  beef  (2  orders, 
10  cents  counting  waste.) 

Roast  beef  (end  of  loin  2  lbs,  24  cents.) 

Roast  pork,  apple  sauce  (2^  Ids,  and 
sauce,  35  cents.) 

Escalopes  of  veal,  sauce  Beamaise  (2 
lbs,  veals  net  30,  breading,  and  butter 
to  baste  10,  sauce  10;  28  orders,  50 
cents.) 

Deviled  ham,  puree  of  potatoes    (6 
orders,  8  ozs,  12  cents.) 
■  Summer  beets  (3  large  and   sauce    6 
cents.) 

Green  peas,  com,  tomatoes,  potatoes 
(with  seasonings,  50  cents.) 

Boiled  spice  pudding,  golden  sauce 
(3  lbs,  20,  and  sauce  9;  29  cents.) 

Gooseberry  jelly  tarts  (22  tarts,  20 
cents.) 

Frozen  custard  (with  milk,  little  cheaper 


than  cream,  2  qts,  and  freezing,  34  cents.) 
(iake,  crackers,  cheese,  bread,  butter 

34- 

Milk,  cream  34,  coffee,  tea,  sugar  14. 

Total,  $4  33;  34  persons;  nearly  13 
cents  a  plate. 

735— Puree  of  Green  Peas  Soup,  or 
Potage  St.  Germaine. 

Boil  3  pints  of  dry  peas  of  a  good 
green  color,  or  ^  pints  of  fresh  green  peas 
in  5  quarts  of  clear  soup  stock.  Put  in 
a  piece  of  salt  pork,  about  half  a  pound 
and  a  handful  of  soup  vegetables.  When 
the  peas  are  thoroughly  done  take  out  the 
pork,  which  can  be  used  as  boiled  meat, 
and  pass  the  soup  and  peas  through  a 
fine  strainer  or  seive  into  the  soup  pot. 
Season,  and  keep  hot  without  boiling. 
Serve  toasted  bread  (croutons)  cut  very 
small,  a  few  in  each  plate,  or  the  kind 
made  as  follows. 

736— Croutons  Soufflees. 


These  are  little  squares  of  fine  puff 
paste,  cut  no  larger  than  white  beans, 
thrown  into  hot  lard  and  fried  of  a 
very  light  color. 

737— Fillets  of  Whitefish   with   Fine 
Herbs. 


'*Fine  herbs"  as  applied  to  several 
dishes  and  to  "sauce  aux  fines  herbes," 
means  mushrooms, shalots  or  green  onions 
and  i3arsley  minced  and  mixed  together 
in  a  light  brown  sauce. 

Take  whitefish  when  fresh  and  firm, 
cut  the  two  sides  from  the  back  bone, 
then  holding  them  flat  on  the  table  slice 
them  the  flat  way  again  with  a  very 
sharp  knife  to  make  thm,  broad  pieces, 
(jut  these  in  strips,  double  them  as  you 
place  them  in  the  buttered  baking  pan 
to  have  the  boned  side  up  and  lean  one 
against  the  other  until  the  pan  is  full. 

Chop  half  a  can  of  mushrooms,  four 
young  onions  and  handful  of  parsley  to- 
gether and  strew  them  among  the  fillets, 
also,  a  dredging  of  salt  and  pepper,  some 
bits  of  butter  and  the  liquor  from  the  can 
of  mushrooms.  Bate  about  half  an  hour,* 
basting  twice  with  a  little  light  colored 


S5 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


veal  gravy.    Serve  one  fillet  and  potatoes  |  741  —Deviled 
in  some  special  form  on  the  saoie  plate. 


738— Potatoes  a  la  Victoria. 


They  are  balls  of  mashed  potato  egged 
on  top  and  baked. 

Boil  4  potatoes,  drain  off  and  mash 
them  with  the  raw  yolk  of  an  egg,  pinch 
of  salt  and  slight  grating  of  nutmeg. 
Make  in  round  balls  about  the  size  of 
walnuts,  place  in  a  baking  pan,  egg  over 
the  tops  and  a  few  minutes  before  dinner 

Eut  them  in  the  oven  to  bake  a  light 
rown.    Serve  one  or  two  with  fish  or 
use  to  garnish  entrees. 

739— Escalopes  of  Veal  a   la   Bear- 
naise. 


Ham    with 
Ptoato. 


Puree    of 


The  slices  must  be  thin  ana  oi  a  choice 
cut  to  look  well ;  scraps  and  fragments,  will 
make  other  dishes ;  the  leg  or  best  meat 
of  the  loin  and  ribs  will  make  escalopes. 

Cut  like  small  thin  steaks  about  half  as 
large  as  the  palm  of  the  hand,  season  with 
a  ckedging  of  spiced  salt,  or  with  salt  and 
pepper  only,  egg  and  bread  them  in 
cracker  meal,  lay  in  a  buttered  pan, 
moisten  with  oil,  clear  butter  or  fresh 
roast  meat  fat ;  brown  them  handsomely 
in  the  oven.  Place  a  spoonful  of  sauce 
in  the  individual  dish,  the  veal  in  that  and 
ornament  wich  either  fried  bread  in  fancy 
lorm  or  pastry  leaves  or  lemon. 


740— Sauce  Bearnaise. 


It  is  a  thick  yellow  sauce  that  looks 
like  tartar  sauce  or  mayonaise,  but  hot 
and  contains  minced  shalots,  mushrooms, 
truffles  and  parsley. 

Put  into  a  small  bright  saucepan  4  ta- 
blespoons vinegar  and  I  of  minced  young 
onions,  and  boil ;  add  2  ounces  bcsi  but- 
ter (large  eg;^  size)  and  then  4  yolks  and 
stir  over  the  fire  until  it  begins  to  thicken ; 
add  I  lablespoonful  each  of  minced 
mushrooms  and  truffles,  little  salt,  cay- 
enne and  finely  minced  parsley.  It  is  to 
be  cooked  enough  to  set  the  egg  yolks  to 
a  buttery  thickness,  but  not  enough  to 
cause  them  to  break  into  curds. 

There  was  a  king  called  Henry  the 
Bearnaise.  The  wordrefers  either  to  him 
or  his  country. 


Thin  slices  ham  half  the  size  that  are 
used  for  breakfast  will  do  for  this.  Spread 
them  with  French  mustard,  largely  di- 
luted with  oil  and  vinegar,  or  with  corn- 
mon  mustard  as  if  for  sandwiches,  lay  in 
a  pan  and  cook  them  in  the  oven.  Dish 
a  spoonful  of  mashed  potato  (sweet  po- 
tato is  better)  and  a  shoe  of  the  deviled 
ham  pressed  down  on  it. 

742— Boilad  Spice  Pudding. 

4  cups  flour — a  pound. 

2  cups  minced  suet—  6  ounces. 

I  cup  molasses—^  pound. 

I  heaping  cup  raisins — ^  pound. 

I  tablespoon  mixed  ground  spices- 
cinnamon,  nutmeg,  cloves,  alspice  or 
whichever  may  be  at  hand. 

I  small  teaspoon  soda,  same  of  salt. 

I  cupmiUu 

I  egg. 

Mix  the  suet  and  flour  together,  put  in 
soda,  salt,  spices;  cut  the  raisins  in  halves 
and  throw  in.  Sth:  togetherthe  egg,  milk 
and  molasses,  mix  up  the  dry  stuff  with 
them,  stir  thoroughly.  Tie  up  in  a  pud- 
ding bag,  leaving  a  little  room  to  swell, 
boil  4  or  ^  hours.  Puddings  of  this 
sort  should  be  made  before  breakfast  or 
over  night  that  they  may  have  plenty  of 
time  to  boil.  They  are  hght,  rich  and 
cheap,  using  the  surplus  suet  from  the 
meat. 

Costs  19  cents  for  three  3  lbs.  012 
quarts.  

743— Golden  Sauce  far  Puddings. 

I  cup  sugar. 

I  cup  water. 

I  heaping  teaspoon  <:om  starch. 

I  yolk  ofegg. 

I  ounce  butter. 

Lemon  peel  or  nutmeg. 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  with  the  fla- 
voring in  it.  Mk  the  starch  in  a  cup  with 
water  and  thicken,  beat  in  the  butter  then 
the  yolk  or  two  of  them.  Costs  8  or  9 
cents  for  a  pint. 

744 — Gooseberry  Jelly  Tarts. 
One  making  of  puff  paste  or  a  piece  kept 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


86 


on  ice  from  a  previous  day  will  do  for  the 
fried  souffles  for  soup  (No.  738)  for  leaf 
or  crescent  shapes  to  decorate  an  entree, 
and  the  remainder  for  tarts.  Roll  it  out 
thin,  cut  out  with  a  cake  cutter,  press 
into  gem  pans,  a  teaspoon  of  jelly  in  each 
and  Bake. 


745— Trouble  wnh  the  Fruit  Jellies 


This  is  about  jelly  that  "wouldn't  jell". 
It  was  beautifully  pink  and  clear,  how- 
ever, that  is  the  jelly  which  the  lady  of 
the  house  and  her  maids  made  was, 
while  a  quart  that  the  cook  made  in  a 
sort  of  short  order  way  for  present  use 
was  not  clear  and  was  rather  dark ;  but  it 
was  solid  enough  to  slice  when  cold. 
Probably  the  difference  was  caused  in 
part  by  the  little  lot  that  was  made  in 
haste,  having  plenty  of  sugar  and  the 
large^  lot  that  took  all  the  afternoon  and 
evening  to  boil  and  all  night  to  stand  and 
get  cold  and  thin  "wouldn't  jeU"  and  had 
to  go  it  all  over  again,  had  not.  They 
talked  about  it  beforehand  and  intended 
to  have  the  jelly  as  good  as  could  be 
made  (for  small  fruit  is  very  abundant 
here,  the  best  costing  only  6  to  8  cents  a 
quart,)  but  came  to  a  wrong  decision 
about  the  amount  of  sugar;  one  said  that 
the  rule  was  to  use  a  pint  of  sugar  to  every 
pint  of  fruit  juice — that  is  a  pound  to  a 
pound—bLt  then,  they  said,  that  was  for 
jelly  to  put  away  in  glass  jars  or  tumblers 
and  keep  for  a  year  or  more,  only  to  bring 
out  for  company,  and  they^  only  wanted 
this  to  keep  through  the  winter  and  use 
it  when  needed  and  it  seemed  as  though 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a 
pound  (or  pint)  of  juice  ought  to  do,  so 
that  was  what  they  allowed  and  the  result 
was  the  jelly  "wouldn't  jell."  Perhaps  it 
would  have  "iell'd"  if  they  had  boiled  it 
down  more ;  out  then  there  would  not 
have  been  so  much  of  it  and  it  would 
have  been  as  dear  as  if  it  had  more  sugar. 
I  think  after  all  that  it  was  the  house- 
keeper who  was  to  blame,  but  the  jelly 
stayed  soft  and  they  put  it  back  in  the  ket- 
tle next  day  and  put  in  a  lot  more  sugar 
without  weighing  or  measuring,  only  be- 
ing sure  to  give  it  plenty  and  then  boiled 
it  all  the  afternoon  and  it  came  out  all 
right,  at  least  so  far  as  setting  solid  was 
concerned,  but  it  was  not  fine  jelly  after 
that,  the  second  boiling  took  away  the 
good  color.    They  had  better  have  al- 


lowed pound  for  pound  at  first.  It  is 
very  likely  the  cook  was  half-way  glad 
that  jelly  "wouldn't  jell"  through  covet- 
ousness ;  for  he  knew  that  whether  good 
or  bad  none  of  it  would  come  to  him  and 
there  were  pound  layer  cakes  made  last 
evening  waiting  for  jelly  to  spread  them 
with,  tarts  for  dmner  that  wanted  jelly  and 
some  white  cake  layers  to  come  yet  with 
the  ice  cream,  but  he  went  on  saying  the 
jell  that  all  are  praising  is  not  the  jell  for 
me,  and  took  2  quarts  of  ripe  gooseber- 
ries in  a  small  tin  pan  with  a  cover  and 
put  in  ^2  cup  water  and  parboiled  them 
with  the  steam  shut  in  about  ten  minutes, 
then  rubbed  the  pulp  and  juice  through 
a  fine  stramer,  added  2  cups  sugar,  set 
the  pan  on  top  of  a  stove-lid  to  hold  it  up 
from  the  stove,  and  let  simmer  without 
further  attention  for  2  hours.  Produced 
I  quart  dark  red  jelly  very  firm ;  good  for 
all  ordinary  uses  in  pastry;  cost :  2  qua  ts 
berries  16,  and  i  lb.  sugar  8 — 24  cents. 

To  make  really  cheap  jellies  it  is  neces- 
sary to  use  apple's  at  the  cheapest  season; 
proceed  the  same  as  above  named  for 
gooseberries  and  either  mix  the  juice  of 
other  fruits  with  the  apple  juice  to  get 
various  kinds,  or  else  merely  color  and 
flavor  it  as  desired. 


Hurrah  for  fresh  vegetables  and  sea 
fish!  First  arrival.  Right  here  in  the 
heart  of  an  agricultural  country  canned 
goods  are  used  as  much  as  a  matter  of 
course  ^  as  if  it  were  a  mountain  camp ; 
find  it  is  about  as  difficult  to  buy  poultry 
as  it  would  be  to  buy  a  turtle  or  terrapin ; 
perhaps  these  could  be  obtained  by  ex- 
press m  even  less  rime  than  it  would  take 
to  find  a  farmer  with  young  ducks  or 
chickens  so  sell.  Instead  of  inquiring 
whether  a  resort  is  situated  in  a  good 
farming  region,  people  who  desire  all  the 
luxuries  of  the  season  would  do  better  to 
ascertain  if  the  express  companies  reach 
the  point  in  question.    Received : 

1  bbl  new  potatoes,  3  bu  @  75. 

2  boxes  tomatoes,  a  bushel,  i  20. 
I  bu  green  pease  i  00. 

I  bu  turnips  60. 

25  heads  summer  cabbage  @  5. 
8  lbs  Iresh  salmon  @  i2j^. 
7  lbs  red  snapper  @  12^. 
Calf  s  head  and  feet  75. 


Dinner. 


July  34. 


^7 


COOKING  liOR  PROFIT, 


Soup — Consomme  Solferino  (6  qts  35 
cents). 

Sliced  tomatoes  (10  cents). 

Fried  black  bass,  tartar  sauce  (5  lbs 
gross  breaded  and  fried  50  sauce  8;  fg 
cents.) 

Potatoes,  gastronome. 

Boiled  meats  (nominal,  left  over  for 
cold.) 

Roast  lamb,  mint  sauce  ( 3  lbs  40  cents.) 

Roast  veal  with  dressing  ( i  ^4  lbs  and 
stuflSng  23  cents.) 

Beef  a  la  mode  (2  lbs  25  cents.) 

Epigramme  of  lamb,  a  TAUemande, 
(i^lbs  15;  sauce  5;  dumplmg  5 — 16  or- 
ders 25  cents.) 

New  potatoes  12,  cabbage  12,  rice  3, 
peas  10,  corn  7 — 44  cents. 

Queen  fritters  and  sabayon  (24  fritters 
22 ;  sauce  10 ;  32  cents.) 

Apple  and  cherry  pies  (3  pies  27  cents.)  | 

Cake  and  milk  (47  cents.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers,  condi- 
ments (34  cents.) 

Butter  7,  bread  6,  coffee,  tea,  sugar, 
16. 

Total  $4  29,  34  persons;  12^  cents  a 
plate. 


al  form  in  the  same  plate,  and  tartar 
sauce  in  a  separate  dish. 


748— Tartar  Sauce. 


746— Consomme  Solferino. 


A  clear  brown  consomme  with  white 
quenelles  in  the  plates. 

When  boilin:^  the  strained  broth  to 
clarify  it  (as  at  No.  139)  add  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  whole  cloves  and  alspice,  giving  the 
finished  consomme  a  spicy  flavor,  and 
add  a  little  extract  ot  meat  or  a  well 
browned  roast  chicken  to  color  and  en- 
rich it.  To  make  the  quenelles;  boil  V2 
cup  farina  in  three  times  as  much  milk, 
as  at  No.  761,  making  a  stiff  porridge  ot 
it,  add  salt,  nutmeg  and  two  raw  yolks, 
pound  all  together,  let  cool,  then  roll  up 
m  balls,  size  of  cherries ;  boil  them  in 
water  a  few  minutes,  drain  off  and  put 
half  a  dozen  in  each  plate. 


It  is  mayonaise  sauce  with  minced 
pickle,  capers  and  onion  added. 

Put  2  raw  yolks  into  a  pint  bowl,  add 
a  tablespoon  of  salad  oil  and  stir  to- 
gether with  an  egg  beater,  add  more  oil 
and  continue  stirring,  throw  in  ^  tea- 
spoon of  salt  and  it  will  become  thick  al- 
most immediately ;  then  add  a  teaspoon 
of  vinegar,  then  2  of  oil  and  continue  un- 
til you  have  enough  for  the  purpose  con- 
stantly^ stirring  the  sauce,  adding  oil  twice 
and  vinegar  once  alternately  and  always 
in  very  small  portions,  and  at  the  finish 
or  when  you  have  near  a  cupful,  squeeze 
in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Mustard 
and  cayenne  may  be  added  if  wished,  but 
are  not  essential  mgredients  of  mayonaise 
sauce. 

Mince  a  few  capers  and  piece  of  green 

gickle  and  a  young  onion  or  two  extremely 
ne,  drain  fhe  mince  on  a  napkin,  stir  it 
into  the  mayonaise  and  you  have  tartar 
sauce.  Serve  cold  in  individual  sauce 
dishes  or  large  butter  chips. 

749— Potatoes  a  la  Gastroncme. 


747— Fried  Black  Bass,  Tartar  Sauce 


Split  the  fish,  divest  them  of  skin, 
which  can  be  done  by  cutting  close  with 
a  sharp  knife  or  else  by  dippmg  in  hot 
water;  cut  m  small  pieces,  salt  well,  roll 
in  Hour  only,  and  fry  in  a  kettle  of  hot 
Kird.    Serve  with  potatoes  in  some  speci- 


Cut  raw  potatoes  in  shape  of  bottle 
corks,  which  is  done  by  first  cutting  in 
thick  slices  and  then  with  an  apple  corer 
or  funnel  or  a  column  cutter  of  graded 
size  proper  for  the  purpose.  Boil  in 
salted  water  and  then  fry  in  fresh  hot 
lard  and  drain  on  a  sieve.  Sprinkle  with 
minced  parsley,  lemon  juice  and  a  little 
clear  butter,  shake  up  and  serve  3  or  4  in 
each  plate  with  the  fish. 


750— Beef  a  la  Mode  Jardiniere. 

Take  a  lean  piece  of  beef— about  1% 
pounds,  and  J^  pound  salt  pork  and  a  tur- 
nip and  carrot.  Choose  the  pork  fat  close 
to  the  skin  because  it  is  tou^h  enough 
to  lard  with  without  breaking.  Cut  it  in 
strips  rather  thinner  than  a  common 
pencil  and  cut  ihe  turnip  and  carrot  the 
same  wajr.  Fill  the  piece  of  beef  full  of 
these  strips  drawing  them  in  with 
a  larding  needle.    Put  the  beef  with  the 


SAN  JiRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


8S 


fn^ments  of  pork  and  vegetables  into 
a  saucepan,  add  an  onion  with  a  few 
cloves  stuck  in  it,  a  bay  leaf  and  soup 
stock  to  nearly  cover  and  simmer  with 
the  lid  on  or  in  the  oven  2  or  3  hours. 
Take  it  up,  either  make  sauce  in  the 
same  or  add  some  Spanish  sauce,  (No. 
784)  and  a  little  wine,  strain,  skim  off  the 
fat  and  serve  in  the  dish  with  the  meat 
carefully  sliced  across  the  larding  and 
garnish  with  a  few  shapes  stamped  out 
of  cooked  vegetables  and  warmed  in 
sauce.  Small  larding  is  necessary  to 
make  this  a  desirable  dish ;  the  slices  of 
meat  should  show  spots  no  larger  than 
French  peas. 

751— Epigramme  of  Lamb  aTAIIe- 
mande. 

It  is  lamb  stew  with  German  dump- 
lings, Ailemande  signifying  German. 
The  sauce  is  light  yellow,  the  dumplings 
raised  with  yeast  and  strained  separ- 
ately. Chop  the  breast  of  lamb  mto 
strips,  then  into  pieces  of  3  or  4  ribs, 
wasn,  stew  with  a  few  cut  vegetables  and 
season.  Take  out  the  meat  when  done 
—which  will  be  in  less  than  an  hour  if 
young  lamb,  strain  the  liquor,  add  a 
thickening  of  flour  and  2  yolks.  Let  the 
yolks  be  added  after  the  flour  has  boiled 
up  in  it  and  do  not  let  boil  again. 
Throw  in  a  little  minced  ])arsley  and 
pour  tne  sauce  over  the  pieces  of  meat. 
Serve  one  piece  of  lamb  with  sauce  ana 
a  dumpling  at  one  end. 


752— German     Dumplings    without 
tggs  or  Powder. 

Leave  put  a  piece  of  roll  dough  from 
the  breakfast  breads  and  keep  ic  cool. 
About  2  hours  before  dinner  make  it  out 
in  round  balls,  set  them  in  steamers, 
takmg  care  not  to  cover  all  the  holes, 
grease  the  tops  to  prevent  drying,  let 
rise  an  hour,  steam  about  fifteen 
minutes.  Serve  as  pot  pie  dumplings  or 
m  such  dishes  as  the  preceding,  or  with 
sweet  sauce  or  fruit  or  butter  and  sugar 
to  take  the  place  of  pudding. 

753— Queen  Fritters  Beignets  Souffles. 

1    cup   water— ^  pint    full  measure. 


2  ounces  butter  or  lard — large  egg  size. 

I  round  cup  flour — 4  ounces. 

5  eggs. 

Set  the  water  on  to  boil  in  a  saucepan 
and  the  butter  (or  lard)  in  it.  Stir  in  the 
flcur  air  at  once  and  work  the  paste  thus 
made  with  a  spoon  till  smcctn  and  well 
cooked .  Take  it  from  the  fire  and  work 
in  the  eggs  one  at  a  time,  beating  in  one 
well  before  adding  another,  and  when 
all  are  in  beat  the  mixture  thoroughly 
against  the  side  of  the  saucepan.  Make 
some  lard  hot.  It  will  take  half  a  sauce- 
panful.  Drop  pieces  of  the  batter  about 
as  large  as  eggs  and  watch  them  swell 
and  expand  in  the  hot  lard  and  become 
hollow  and  light.  Only  four  or  five  at 
a  time  can  be  fried  because  they  need 
plenty  of  room. 

If  dropped  small,  say,  not  mueh  larger 
than  a  walnut,  the  above  will  make  25 
fritters.  They  show  their  remarkable 
lightness  better,  however,  when  made 
larger. 


754— Sauce  Sabiyon. 


Boil  together  i  cup  su2;ar  and  ^  cup 
water  and  thicken  with  cornstarch. 
Beat  2  or  3  yolks  in  a  bowl  with  4  table- 
spoons of  wine  and  2  of  sugar;  when  it 
is  frothy  with  beating  ppur  the  thickened 
sauce  to  it,  whisk  again  and  serve  as 
sauce  to  fritters  and  puddings.  Other 
flavorings  can  be  used,  rum  is  frequently 
employed  or  brandy  when  for  plum  pud- 
ding. The  golden  sauce  No.  743  is 
nearly  the  same  thing  if  whisked  to  a 
foam,  and  does  not  require  liquor  or 
wine — which  suits  a  temperance  house 
like  this  we  are  writing  of. 


Dinner. 

July  25. 

Soup — Puree  of  white  beans  or,  potage 
a  la  conde  (6  qts  30  cents). 

Sliced  tomato  and  cucumber  (10  cents). 

Salmon  au  gratin,  tartar  sauce  (3  lbs 
net  @is,  breading  and  sauce  53  cents). 

Potatoes,  mareschale. 

Boiled  ham  with  greens  (7  orders,  r  lb 
ham  15,  with  greens  20  cents). 

Roast  beef  (2  ribs  3  lbs  36  cents). 

Veal  with  dressing  (i  J^  lbs  20  cents). 


8g 


COOKING  FOR  PROMT, 


Entrecote  of  pork,  Dauphinoise  (3  lbs 
net  40,  with  dressing  45). 

Kromeskies  a  la  Kusse  (8  orders  16 
cents). 

Green  peas  15,  string  beans  5,  rice  with 
cream  6,  tomatoes  8,  potatoes  12  (46 
cents). 

Boiled  farina  pudding,  lemon  sauce  (3 
pts  12,  with  sauce  18  cents). 

Coffee  ice  cream  (i  qt  cream,  sugar, 
coffee;  2  qts  frozen  35  cents). 

Cake  assorted  (20  cents). 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  pickles,  condi- 
ments (35  cents). 

Milk,  cream,  coffee,  tea,  bread,  butter 
(55  cents). 

Total  $4  39:  35  persons;  12^  cents  a 
plate. 


755 — Puree^of  White  Beans  or,  Potage 
a  la  Conde. 

It  is  bean  soup  with  milk- added— a 
cream  of  beans.    Take : 

4  cups  beans. 

I  large  onion,  carrot,  turnip. 
I  lb  lean  salt  pork. 

5  or  6  quarts  soup  stock 
I  or  2  quarts  milk. 

Soak  the  beans  in  water  over  night ;  put 
them  in  with  the  vegetables  either  whole 
or  in  large  pieces  and  boU  in  the  soup 
stock  until  the  beans  are  quite  soft.  The 
pork  which  is  for  seasoning  need  only  be 
boiled  in  it  an  hour  then  taken  up  and 
kept  for  some  other  use,  as  for  baked 
beans  etc. 

Half  an  hour  before  dinner  take  out 
the  vegetables  and  pass  the  soup  and 
beans  ttirough  a  sieve  or  strainer  into  the 
soup  pot.  iioil  the  milk,  add  a  little 
thickening  then  pour  through  a  strainer 
into  the  puree  of  beans.  Season  and 
serve  with  small  conae  crusts  of  a  very 
light  color — dried  instead  of  toasted.  See 
also  No.  182.  The  French  word  prob- 
ably has  reference  to  a  Prince  de  conde 
who  was  very  popular  in  his  time. 


756— Sliced  Tomatoes. 

While  it  is  quicker  and  easier  to  peel 
tomatoes  if  they  are  first  scalded  in  hot 
water,  they  are  never  so  good  afterwards, 
and  some  people  take  a  little  more  time 
and  patience  and  peel  them  with  a  sharp 
knife  without  scalding.    That  is  the  best 


way.    Keep  cold  and  serve  with  pieces  of 
ice  upon  them. 

These  belong  to  the  list  of  cold  hors  d* 
otfffure  or  side  dishes;  their  place  in  the 
bill  of  fare  is  after  the  soup  when  soup  is 
the  first  dish  named;  but  if  raw  oysters  or 
clams  precede  the  soup,  the  tomatoes, 
cucumbere,  olives  and  similar  articles 
will  be  written  after  them.  Being  gener- 
ally placed  on  the  table  before  the  begin- 
ning of  dinner  some  latitude  is  taken  by 
the  guests  as  to  the  time  of  partaking  of 
such  relishes  and  salads  according  to  in- 
dividual preferences. 


757 — Salmon  au  Gratin. 


Means  that  it  is  browned  in  the  oven- 
A  gratin  is  a  baking  pan ;  anything  grati- 
nated  is  toasted  or  browned. 

Take  half  the  salmon  and  lay  it  open 
without  quite  dividing;  take  off  the  skin 
with  a  sharp  knife,  moisten  the  fish  with 
a  little  olive  oil,  pepper  and  salt,  and  let 
lie  in  the  pan  an  hour  or  two.  An  hour 
before  dinner  make  some  fresh  roast  meat 
fat  hot  in  the  pan  and  bake  brown  in 
about  half  an  hour,  basting  once  or  twice 
with  clear  butter.  Drain  away  the  grease , 
or  move  the  fish  into  a  clean  pan.  Serve 
small  portions  cut  with  a  fish  slice  with 
tartar  sauce  at  the  side  and  potatoes  in 
some  special  form  on  the  same  plate. 


758 — Potatoes  a  la  Marechale. 


The  name  for  the  familiar  browned 
whole  potatoes  with  the  difference,  how- 
ever, that  these  must  be  all  quite  round 
and  of  one  size,  made  so  by  cutting  out 
with  the  largest  size  of  potato  spoon 
which  forms  them  large  as  crab  apples  or 
small  tomatoes.  New  potatoes  of  a 
round  smooth  sort  scraped  serve  the  pur- 
pose. Put  them  in  a  pan  with  roast  meat 
tat  and  cook  brown  in  the  oven.  Serve 
with  fish  or  entrees. 


759— Entrecote  of  Pork,  Dauphinoise. 

Entrecote  signifies  choice  piece,  middle 
cut,  the  cut  between  the  ribs,  generally 
applied  to  beef.  The  use  of  it  is  to  inti- 
mate that  it  is  not  plain  roast  pork  but 
something  seasoned. 

Cut  the  meat  from  the  back  bone  of  a 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


90 


loin  or  rack  of  young  pork  in  one  long  fil- 
let and  a  portion  of  the  flank  with  it. 
Make  a  roll  of  it  that  will  be  quite  small ; 
split  the  meat  if  too  large  when  rolled  and 
make  two.  Before  rolling:  up  spread 
upon  it  a  seasoning  of  finely  minced  on- 
ion, powdered  sa^e  or  rosemary,  bayleaf 
^o  powdered,  salt  and  a  little  cayenne, 
tie  up  with  twine,  cook  in  soup  stock  a 
while  without  browning,  then  roll  in  egg 
and  cracker  meal  and  bake  brown.  Bake 
a  few  small  tomatoes  set  far  apart  in  a 
pan  so  that  they  will  dry  away  from  their 
juice,  and  also  a  few  small  onions  and 
when  time  to  serve  put  a  spoonful  of 
gravy  into  the  small  dish,  a  slice  of  the 
roll  of  pork  and  baked  tomato  and 
browned  onion  at  the  ends  for  garnish. 
Dauphinoise  is  equivalent  to  saying  after 
the  manner  of  the  people  of  Dauphmy. 


760— Kromeskies  a  la  Russe. 


Kromeskies  are  a  kind  of  meat  fritter 
or  fish  or  ovster  fritter;  for  krom- 
eskies can  Se  made  of  anything 
that  will  make  croquettes.  Mince 
some  veal,  lamb  or  chicken  very 
fine ;  season  with  spiced  salt,  or  salt,  pep- 
per and  nutmeg,  mix  with  a  little  very 
stiff  sauce  made  by  stirring  butter  and 
flour  over  the  fire  and  adding  broth  or 
water,  taking  care  not  to  get  in  too  much 
liquor.  When  cold  roll  up  the  prepara- 
tion like  very  small  sausages;  dip  mtothin 
fritter  batter  and  fry  light  colored  in  fresh 
lard.  Serve  with  a  spoonful  of  good 
white  sauce  placed  previously  in  the  dish 
and  sprinkle  with  finely  minced  parsley. 
As  these  are  fried  they  should  be  laid  on 
paper  to  drain.  Very  few  are  called  for 
at  the  first  time  of  i:ervng,  the  name  not 
being  tamiiiar  to  many,  and  expensive 
ingreaients  may  as  well  be  omitted. 
Make  kromeskies  oi  game  or  lobster  same 
way. 


761— Boiled  Farina  Pudding. 

4  cups  milk — a  quart. 
I  small  cup  farina — 4  ounces. 
J^  cup  sugar. 
I  or  2  yolks. 
Butter  size  of  an  egg. 
Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it,  beat 
in  the  farina  with  an  egg  whisk  the  same 


as  making  mush.  When  well  mixed  put 
a  lid  on  and  let  it  cook  an  hour;  set  it  on 
a  brick  to  raise  it  from  the  fire,  or  in  a 
farina  kettle.  Beat  in  the  butter  before 
serving  and  the  yolks  first  beaten  with  a 
little  milk.  The  pudding  need  not  be 
baked.    Serve  with  sauce. 


762— Coffee  Ice  Creania 

I  quart  pure  sweet  cream- 

I  cup  sugar. 

y^  cup  strong  clear  coffee^ 

Mix  and  fir^eze. 

In  order  to  obtain  coffee  strong  enough 
not  to  dilute  the  cream  a  cup  of  made 
coffee  can  be  boiled  up  with  a  heaping 
tablespoon  of  ground  coffee  and  then 
strained  into  the  cream.  It  is  not  best  to 
make  it  too  highly  flavored. 


Dinner. 

July  26.  .  , 

boup — consomme  aux  pates  d'  Italic 

(6  qts  30  cents). 

Sliced  tomatoes  and  cucumbers  (lo 
cents). 

Salmon  a  TEcossaise  {3  lbs  (gross  @ 
13,  with  sauce  48  cents). 

Potatoes  au  naturel. 

Braised  tongue  a  la  Flamande  (tongue 
24  cents,  la.ded,  garnished,  30  cents). 

Roast  beef  (2  ribs  3  lbs  36  cents). 

Spring  lamb,  mint  sauce  (fore  quarter 
6  lbs  70  cents). 

Pork  cutlets,  sauce  Robert  (10  orders 
I V2  lbs  net  and  sauce  20  cents). 

Queen  fritters  requested  and  double 
quantity  of  other  day,  (40  fritters  with 
transparent  sauce  60  cents). 

Green  peas  15,  string  beans  5,  cabbage 
10,  tomatoes  12,  rice  5,  potatoes  10  (57 
cents). 

Baked  plum  pudding  (No.  29,  with 
sauce,  35  cents). 

Custard  pie  (2  pies  18  cents). 

Cherry  water  ice  (No.  242,  30  cents). 

Delicate  cake  (No.  770,  i  lb  10  cents). 

Telly  roll  (No.  7,  i  lb  10  cents). 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers,  pickles, 
condiments,  39  cents. 

Milk,  cream,  coffee,  tea,  bread,  butter, 
60  cents. 

Total  $5  63;  39  persons;  14^  cents  a 
plate. 


91 


COOKING  JPOR  PR0FI2. 


763— Consomme  with  Italian  Pastes 
or  aux  Pates  d'  Italie. 

It  is  clear  consomme  made  as  for  royal 
(No.  I  j9)  with  some  sort  of  Italian  pastes 
cooked  separately,  washed  free  from  meal 
and  put  in.  These  are  various,  such  as 
alphabet  pastes  of  the  same  material  as 
macaroni  stamped  in  letters  or  in  fancy 
figures.  There  is  a  short  kind  of  maca- 
roni for  the  purpose,  or  common  maca- 
roni may  be  cooked  and  afterwards  cut 
into  quarter  inches  and  put  in  the  con- 
somme. Fidelini,  spaghetti  and  lasagnes 
are  other  varities  of  macaroni  which  can 
be  used  in  the  same  ways. 


764— Salmon,    Scottish    Style    or  a 
TEcossaise. 


minutes  before  dinner,  using  roast  meat 
fat  or  butter  and  get  them  brown.  Serve 
a  spoonful  of  sauce  Robert  in  the  dish 
and  a  cutlet  in  it  and  a  fried  bread  crou- 
ton for  garnish. 

767— Sauce  Robert 


Have  some  water  boiling  ready,  throw 
in  salt  enough  to  make  it  taste,  and  half 
an  hour  before  dinner  drop  in  the  fish  and 
boil  gently  at  the  back  of  the  stove.  Stir 
some  butter  to  make  it  soft  without  melt- 
ing it  and  mix  in  lemon  juice  and  parsley. 
Cook  potatoes  with  the  skins  on,  peel 
when  done  and  cut  in  quarters.  Take  up 
the  salmon  (there  should  be  a  fish  kettle 
with  a  drainer  or  false  bottom  to  boil  fish 
in)  serve  small  portions  individually  with 
the  prepared  butter  for  sauce  and  the  cut 
potatoes  on  the  same  plate. 


Named  after  a  French  restauranteur  of 
the  last  century  who  made  it  known  and 
valued  as  an  accompaniment  to  broiled 
pork. 

Mince  an  onion  extremely  fine  and  stir 
over  the  fire  in  a  small  saucepan  with  a 
little  oil  or  clear  butter  until  it  is  cooked 
and  beginning  to  brown,  then  put  in  a 
little  made  mustard,  a  tablespoonful  of 
vinegar,  pepper,  and  half  a  cu[)  of  light 
veal  gravy  or  Spanish  sauce.  Skim  off  the 
oil  or  butter  as  it  rises.  Serve  without 
straming — it  is  a  yellowish  brown  sauce 
with  mimced  onion  in  it. 


765— Braised  Tongue,  Flemish  Style, 
a  la  Flamande. 


It  is  corned  tongue  larded  through 
length\yise  with  strips  of  fat  pork,  sim- 
mered in  a  covered  saucepan  with  vesje- 
tables  and  seasonings,  sliced  across  the 
larding  so  as  to  show  it,  laid  upon  a 
spoonful  of  greens  in  the  individual  dish 
to  serve.  Anything  in  the  style  of  Flan- 
ders or  Holland  may  be  expected  to  come 
up  with  a  garniture  of  greens. 

766— Pork  Cu:lets,  Sauce  Robert. 


Cut  pork  chops  or  steaks  very  small 
and  thin,  dredge  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
dip  into  flour ;  lay  them  in  a  frying  pan 
ready.    Ccok  on  top  of  the  stove  a  few 


768— Rice  Plain  Southern  Way. 

The  object  is  to  get  the  grains  loose 
and  distinct  and  served  dry  although  well 
cooked.  Wash  a  cupful  of  rice  in  three 
waters ;  put  in  on  to  boil  in  four  cups  of 
water  and  shut  up  with  a  lid.  Never  stir 
It.  When  done,  or  in  half  an  hour,  drain 
off  the  water ;  wash  it  in  cold  water,  f)Our 
into  a  colander  to  drain,  put  back  into 
the  saucepan  with  a  little  salt  shaken 
about  in  it  and  let  get  hot  again  without 
more  boilmg;  serve  dry. 

769— Rich  Baked  Plum  Pudding. 

Had  broken  cake  and  frosting;  from 
party  supper,  crushed  and  rolled  it  to 
crumbs,  took 

6  heaped  cups  of  cake  crumbs  and  ic- 
ing. 

6  eggs. 

I  Yi,  cups  milk. 

%  cup  brandy. 

I  lemon. 

Mix  eggs  and  milk  together,  stir  in  the 
cake  crumbs,  add  the  grated  rind  of  the 
lemon  and  the  juice,  stir  up  and  bake 
covered  with  buttered  paper  to  prevent 
blistering.  Cost;  cake  2  lb  10,  eggs  8, 
milks,  lemon  2,  brandy  6;  29  cents  for 
2  quarts .  Serve  with  sauce  sabayon  or 
transparent . 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


92 


770— Delicate  Cake. 


One  of  the  very  best  white  cakes. 
^  2    cups   granulated    sugar — i    pound 
light  weight. 

2  cups  white  butter — ^  pound. 

13  whites  of  eggs — ^  pound. 

I  teaspoon  cream  tartar. 

I  teaspoon  baking  powder. 

Flavoring  extract  or  little  brandy    if 
wished,  but  not  essential;  J^  cup  milk. 

Sift  the  cream  tartar  and  baking  pow- 
der in  the  mixed  starch  and  flour. 

Soften  the  butter  and  stir  it  and  t  e 
sugar  together  to  a  cream ;  add  the  whites 
a  little  at  a  time,  without  previous  beat- 
ing, then  the  flour  and  starch  and  beat 
well ;  and  at  last  beat  in  the  milk.  Bake 
either  in  moulds  or  in  jelly  cake  pans.  If 
lemons  are  at  hand  the  juice  of  one  may 
be  used  instead  of  cream  tartar;  but  use 
no  soda  in  white  cakes. 


Dinner' 

July  27. 

Soup — cream  a  la  duchesse  (8  qts  45 
cents). 

Scalloped  salmon,  frizzed  potatoes 
(fish,  charged  previous  days,  say,  20 
cents). 

Boiled  corned  tongue  (25^  lbs,  28 
cents). 

Corned  beef  and  cabbage  (i  lb,  and 
cabbage  16  cents). 

Roast  beef,  (2  ribs,  3  lbs  net,  39  cents). 

Spring  lamb  (side,  7  lbs  net,  80  cents). 

Roast  mutton  (for  second  table,  4  lbs, 
48  cents). 

Grenadins  of  veal,  sauce  Napolitaine 
(8  orders,  i  lb  select  and  sauce  24  cents). 

Brochettes  of  kidney,  sauce  claremont 
(4  orders,  10  cents). 

Mashed  turnips  4,  hot  slaw  9,  green 
peas  15,  stewed  tomatoes  15,  potatoes  two 
days  15  (57  cents). 

Steamed  pound  pudding,  wine  sauce 
(2  lbs  and  sauce,  28  cents). 

Apple  tarts  {24  tarts,  xo  cents), 

Boston  cream  puffs  (No.  288 ;  32  puffs 
half  size,  36  cents). 

Sultana  cake  and  pound  cake  (15 
cents). 

Vanilla  ice  cream  (25^  qts  pure  cream, 
sugar,  etc.,  70  cents). 


Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers,  pickles, 
condiments  (48  cents). 

Milk  36,  cream  20,  butter  20,  bread  12 
(88  cents). 

Coffee  10,  tea  3,  sugar  4  (17  cents). 

Total  $6  99;  48  persons;  145^  cents  a 
plate . 


771— Cream  Soup,  a  la  Duchesse. 


A  rich  white  soft  soup  like  cream  of 
chicken  with  egg  custards. 

Boil  either  a  chicken  or  white  veal  in 
the  stock  until  quite  tender;  chop  in  the 
meat  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar.  Boil  a 
cup  of  rice  and  when  done  and  drained 
pound  it  also  with  the  meat  and  pass 
throuh  a  sieve.  Use  4  or  5  quarts  of 
seasoned  stock,  2  or  3  quarts  rich  milk 
and  the  puree  of  chicken  and  rice  to 
thicken. 

Beat  4  eggs  slightly,  season  with  nut- 
meg, salt  and  pepper;  put  in  a  deep  pan 
and  cook  either  in  steamer  or  in  pan  of 
water  in  the  oven.  Cut  out  cork  shapes 
of  custard  with  a  column  cutter  and  put 
in  the  soup  just  before  serving. 


772— Scalloped   Salmon,  Plain  cr  au 
Vin. 


Take  cold  cooked  salmon  which  may 
have  been  left  from  a  previous  day  and 
some  other  fish  or  canned  salmon  to  make 
enough,  and  pick  it  into  pieces  of  even 
size  without  bones.  Mix  finely  mirxed 
bread  and  cracker  meal  in  equal  quanti- 
ties. Butter  a  baking  pan,  cover  the 
bottom  with  the  crumbs,  place  fish  enough 
to  cover  that,  and  plenty  of  crumbs  again 
on  top. 

Take  soup  stock  and  milk  if  to  be  in 
plain  style,  or  soup  stock  and  white  wine 
if  that  way,  enough  to  thoroughly  moisten, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  pour  over 
the  scallop  and  bake  brown.  Cut  out 
squares,  place  on  the  dishes  as  neatly  as 
possible,  add  a  border  of  frizzed  potatoes 
for  decoration. 


773— Frizzed  Potatoes. 


The  same  as  Julienne  (No.  729)  but 
shred  much  finer.  Slice  raw  potatoes* 
with  a  Saratoga  cutter,  then  place  the 


93 


COOKING  JFOR  PROMT. 


slices  upon  each  other  and  shred  them. 
Fry  almost  white  in  fresh  lard.  Serve  as 
a  garnish. 


774— Crenadins  of  Veal,  Napolitaine. 


Small  selected  veal  steaks,  size  of  the 
palm  of  the  hand,  larded  with  a  few  strips 
of  fat  pork,  baked  in  a  quick  oven,  served  | 
with  sauce  in  the  dish. 

Slice  the  leg  of  veal  for  them  and  use 
the  trimmings  in  soup  or  stews.  Draw 
the  lardoons  through  so  that  a  dozen  ends 
will  cluster  in  the  middle  of  each  p;rena- 
din.  Butter  a  pan,  strew  a  very  little 
rainced  onion,  salt  and  pepper ;  place  the 
veal  close  together;  bake  light  brown. 
Have  some  clear  soup  stock  boiled  down 
to  glaze  and  baste  them  with  it  while  bak- 
ing. 


775— Sauce  Napolitaine. 

Mk  grated  horseradish  in  thin  white 
sauce,  made  by  tnickening  strong  chicken 
broth  with  white  roux .  Butter  sauce  di- 
luted will  answer  the  purpose  ordinarily — 
the  horseradish  is  the  chief  ingredient. 

776— Brcchettes  cf  Kidneys  and  Ham. 


I  cup  vinegar. 

I  cup  water. 

4  yolks  of  eggs. 

I  tablespoon  butter. 

1  tablespoon  salt. 

Shred  the  cabbage  fine,  mix  the  yolks 
well  with  some  water,  put  everything 
into  a  saucepan  or  into  the  sink  of  the 
steam  chest  and  stir  occasionally  until  it 
reaches  boiling  point ;  then  keep  it  where 
it  will  not  boil.  This  makes  a  yellow  sort 
of  cream  dressing  in  the  cabbage;  but 
boiling  curdles  the  egg  and  would  make 
it  noc  so  good.  Add  minced  red  pepper 
if  you  have  it;  some  add  sugar. 

779— Hot  :>law  Another  Way. 


Slice  up  the  kidneys  that  may  have  ac- 
cumulated, and  small  pieces  of  ham,  cut 
them  to  one  size  as  near  as  can  be,  and 
not  larger  than  a  silver  half  dollar.  Run 
them  on  iron  skewers,  a  slice  of  kidney 
and  a  slice  of  ham  alternately  until 
the  skewers  are  full.  Trim  off  comers 
with  a  straight  cut,  lay  in  a  pan  and  bake. 
Serve  in  a  spoonlul  of  sauce  in  the  dish, 
pushing  off  the  portion  from  the  skewer 
with  a  fork. 

These  may  also  be  fried  in  hot  fat  and 
served  for  breakfast;  also  breaded  and 
fried.  

777— ^auce  Claremonl. 


The  common  hotel  way  of  making  hot 
slaw  is  to  put  the  shred  cabbage  into  a 
large  saucepan  with  roast  meat  or  bacon 
fat  and  vinegar  and  stir  it  over  the  fire 
until  the  cabbage  is  partly  cooked  and 
the  vinegar  has  dried  out,  making  a  sort 
of  imitation  of  sour  krout ;  it  is  cheap. 

730— Steamed  Pound  Pudding. 

I  pound  sugar — any  kind. 

^/i  pound  butter. 

lo  eggs. 

I  pound  flour. 

Stir  the  butter  and  sugar  together ;  add 
the  eggs,  two  at  a  time,  not  beaten ;  when 
'  all  are  in  add  the  flour.  Beat  up  well. 
'  Use  part  to  steam  in  a  mould  or  pan  for 
pudding.  It  takes  from  one  to  one  and 
a  half  hours  to  steam ;  must  have  a  good 
lid  on  or  paper  cover  under  the  lid  and 
plenty  of  steam.  As  the  pudding  is  sliced 
like  cake  and  "goes  a  good  way"  there 
will  be  some  of  the  batter  to  spare  to 
bake  a  pound  cake  at  the  same  time. 
Serve  sauce  with  the  pudding.  If  no 
wine,  add  some  fruit  juice  to  the  syrup 
made  of  sugar  and  starch  and  boil  until 
clear. 


Mince  onions  and  stir  over  the  fire  in  a 
little  oil  until  cooked ;  add  brown  sauce 
or  light  veal  gravy;  skim  off  the  oil  as  it 
rises. 


778— Hot  Slaw. 


I  or  2  heads  white  cabbage. 


781— Apple  Tarts. 


Made  of  pufi*  paste  and  cooked  apple 
put  through  a  colander  and  well  sweet- 
ened. Canned  apples  will  answer  when 
fresh  cannot  be  had. 

Roll  out  puff  paste,  cut  flats  and  line 
large  patty  pans  or  jem  pans,  put  in  a 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


94 


tablespoonof  apple  and  bake.  A  favor- 
ite sort  of  pastry,  richer  than  apple  pie 
and  sells  well  at  the  fine  bakeries. 


782— Eclairs  a  la  Crcme 


The  French  name  for  cream  puffs  No. 
288  when  filled  with  whipped  cream.  In 
places  where  pure  cream  can  be  obtain- 
ed, as  at  this  summer  resort,  instead  of 
using  the  pastry  custard  take  cream,  set 
in  a  pan  ot  ice  water,  sweeten,  and  then 
whip  with  the  wire  egg-whisk  until  it  is 
frothy  and  thick.  Flavor  with  vanilla  or 
lemon ;  cut  the  puffs  open  at  top  fill  with 
whipped  cream  and  replace  the  piece. 
Cream  puffs  can  be  made  for  15  cents  a 
dozen  of  small  size  with  eggs  at  a  low  price, 
and  cream. 


783— Sultana  Cake 


Make  delicate  cake,  No  770,  and  add 
to  it  a  pound  of  sultana  seedless  raisins . 

784 — Spanish  Stcck  Sauce. 


away  to  become  cold.  The  fat  can  be 
taken  off  when  cold.  There  should 
not  be  enough  tomatoes  used  to  make 
everything  the  sauce  c^oesm  taste  of  them. 
The  uses  of  this  Spanish  sauce  are  to 
add  to  soups  of  several  kinds.  Mock  Tur- 
tle, green  turtle  and  other  such  soups  are 
half  made  when  this  sauceismade,anda 
number  of  brown  sauces  need  only  cer- 
tain other  ingredients,  such  as  fried  min- 
ced onion  or  mushrooms  to  be  added  to 
the  stock  sauce,  to  bring  them  to  an  easy 
completion.      

Dinner 

July  28 
Soup— Mock  turtle  (8  qts,  60  cents.) 
Sliced  tomatoes  and  cucumbers  (10  cts.) 
Fish— Redfish     au  court-bouillon    (4 

lbs  and  sauce  56  cents) 
New  Potatoes. 
Corned  beef  and  tongue  (12  orders  22 

cents.) 
Roast  beef  (i  rib  21-^  lbs  30  cents.) 
Roast  leg  mutton  (4  lbs  net  50  cts.) 
Fricandeau  of  veal,  Italienne  {2  lbs 

veal,  lardoons,  sauce,  40  cts.) 

Small  patties  a  la  Toulouse  (8  orders 

24cents.) 
String  beans  m  espagnole  10,  cabbage 
stewed  turnips  5,  rice  5,  potatoes  15, 


When  the  number  of  people  to  be  pro- 
vided for  amounts  to  forty  or  fifty,  it  is  a 
saving  of  labor  to  keep  stock  sauces  on 
handVhe  most  useful  is  that  which  has 
come  to  be  called  Spanish  sauce,  con- 
tainin  (  a  small  proportion  of  tomatoes. 

It  will  have  to  be  maae  every  second  or  |  (3  ibs  and  sauce  30  cents 
third  day  and  kept  cold  until  all  is  used.  |      Vanilla  frozen  custard  (3  qts  and  freez 
Take  a  large  saucepan,  pour  into  it  about  i  jng  60  cents.) 


beetsin  vinegar  4,  (49  cents.) 
Apple  pie,  old  style  (3  pies  25  cents.) 
Boiled  cinnamon  pudding,  hard  sauce 


a  cujiful  of  the  clear  oil  of  melted  butter 
and  lay  in  some  pieces  of  raw  ham — the 
rough  ends  will  do  but  no  smoky  outside. 
Throw  in  6  or  8  onions  or  leeks  or  both, 
cut  in  large  pieces,  as  much  turnips  and 
carrots,  a  tablespoon  of  cloves  and  some 
alspice  and  crushed  black  pepper,  lay  on 
these  some  soup  bones,  veal  shank  and 
neck,  flank  of  beef  and  any  small  pieces 
that  can  be  spared  and  set  over  the  fire 
without  any  water  but  with  a  lid  on  to  Slew 
and  slowly  become  light  brown,  stirring 
it  frequently  with  a  long  wooden  paddle. 
In  about  half  an  hour  or  an  hour,accord- 
ing  to  the  heat  of  the  fire,  put  in  a  small 
can  of  tomatoes  and  5  or  6  quarts  of  soup 
stock  or  part  water,  and  a'handful  of  salt. 
Let  cook  slowly  for  2  hours  then  thicken 
with  flour  to  be  about  like   a  tolerably 
thick  soup,  and   presently  strain  it  off 
through  a  fine  gravy  stramer  and  set  it 


Cakes  and  star  kisses  (No 


20  cents.) 
pick- 


5' 
Nuts,  raisins,    crackers,  cheese, 

les,  condiments,  (48  cents.) 

Milk,  cream,  butter,  bread,  coffee,  tea, 
sugar,  (1,00) 

Total,  $6.24;  48 persons;  13  cents  a 
plate. 

785— Mock  Turtle  Soup 


Light  brown,  rather  like  a  thin  gravy 
with  square  cut  pieces  of  calf  s  head  in  it 
and  chopped  hard  boiled  yolks,  wine  and 
lemon. 

Boil  a  calfs  head  and  feet  for  2  hours— 
the  head  previously  split  and  tongue  and 
brains  taken  ont.  Take  the  calfs  head 
liquor  4  qts  and  Spanish  stock  (No.  784) 
4  quarts,  mix,  boil,  thicken  slightly, 
strain,  skim  free  from  grease.    Cut  half 


PS 


COOKING  JFOR  PROFIT, 


the  calf  s  head  into  large  dice  and  add 
salt,  cayenne,  little  sherry  and  juice  of 
half  ot  'a  lemon  and  chopped  yolks  of 
2  eggs 

If  no  stock  sauce  on  hand,  and  the  soup 
must  be  started  from  the  beginning,  but- 
ter the  bottom  of  a  saucepan  and  lay  in  2 
slices  ot  lean  ham,  a  handful  of  onions, 
same  of  turnips  and  carrots  and  fry  them 
together.  Put  in  half  can  tomatoes,  two 
bay  leaves,  cloves,  parsley,  thyme,  the 
calfs  head  Uquor  and  strong  soup  stock 
made  in  the  usual  way,  enough  to  make 
about  2  gallons.  Boil  an  hour  and  thick- 
en either  with  roux  or  flour  and  water. 
Strain,  add  calfs  head,  wine  lemon  juice, 
sherry,  salt  and  cayenne. 


with  constant  stirring,  put  in  the  flour 
;  and  stir  that  about  until  the  mixture 
\  (which  is  a  seasoned  roux)  begins  to 
'  brown.  Add  the  soup  stock  (or  broth 
'  or  water)  and  let  boil  u  p,  and  then- the 
)  tomatoes.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
I  Skim  off  the  oil  while  it  is  boiling. 
i  Cut  fish  in  slices  and  cookTit  in  the 
j  sauce.  Serve  fish  and  sauce  together 
I  with  toast  either  under  the  slice  offish 
i  or  as  a  garnish  at  the  edge.     Rice  is  also 

ser\'ed  with  this  dish  the  same  as  with  a 

curry,  by  way  of  variety. 


786— Redfioh  au  Court-Boulllcn. 


788— Fricandeau  of  Veil,  <  alienne. 


This  is  on  2  of  the  specialties  of  New 
Orleans  and  all  Southern  holels  and  res- 
taurants. The  court-bouillon  is  not  the 
same  seasoned  stock  for  boiling  a  whole 
fish  in,  that  is  generally  kn9wn  by  that 
name  and  which  contams  wine,  but  is  a 
sort  of  soup  of  onions,  th5mie,  garlic, 
olive  oil  and  tomatoes  in  which  the  slices 
offish  are  stewed  and  both  fish  and  sauce 
served  together .  No  one  of  the  ingredients 
named  should  be  in  excess,  but  all  in 
moderate  proportions.  It  is  a  standing 
dish  on  the  breakfast  bills  of  fare  of  the 
best  hotels  in  the  Southern  cities,trout, 
snapper,  or  other  good  fish  taking  the 
place  according  to  the  market .  Without 
expecting  it  to  meet  with  any  particular 
appreciation  in  this  little  community.  I 
let  it  appear  once  for  novelty,  our  butch- 
er's little  shipment  of  sea  fishes  allowing 
the  opportunity . 


It  is  a  piece  of  veal  larded,  cooked  and 
glazed  in  its  own  gravy.    Take  any  lean 
piece  such  as  the  shoulder  with  the  bone 
I  removed,  or  part  of  the  flank,  or  the  leg 
!  and  lard  it  full  of  strips  of  fat  salt  pork 
the  same  as  for  beef  a  la  mode  or  larded 
and  braised  tongue.     Cut  the  pork  close 
to  the  skin  and  it  will  be  found  better  to 
lard  with  than  bacon,  which  is  too  strong- 
ly flavored.    The  larding  finished,   put 
the  scraps  of  pork  in    a  baking  pan  of 
i  small  size  and  depth,  also  some  pieces  of 
I  turnip,  carrot  and  onion,  sweet  herbs  if 
I  at  hand,  such  as  thyme  and  parsley ;  put 
i  in  the  veal,  thin  a  little  broth  and  wine, 
I  cover  with  a  buttered  paper  and  bake  in 
i  a  moderate  oven  about  an  hour,  basting 
I  occasionally . 

I     Take  up  the  meat  when  done  in  anoth- 

I  er  pan,  strain  the  remaining  liquor,  skim 

I  it,  glaze  the  meat  by  pouring  it  over  and 

I  letting  dry  in  the  hot  closet.    Slice  the 

meat  so  that  the  lardings  will  show  and 

serve  small  cuts  with  Italian  sauce  in  the 

dish  and  two  or  three  olives  for  garnish. 


787— Sauce  CDurt-Bouillon. 

Yz  cup  olive  oil 

y2  cup  minced  )'oung  onions . 

3  c  oves  (quarter:)  of  garlic 

I  teaspoon  thyme — green  or<iried  but 
on  powdered. 
54  cup  flour. 
5^2  cup  tomatoes  • 

4  cups  soup  stock, 
salt  and  pepper 

Take  a  flat-bottom  saucepan,  put  in 
the  oil,  onions,  garlic,  thyme,  and  let 
them  cook  over  the  fire  a  few  minutes 


789— Italian  Sauce.  Brown. 


1  cup  brown  sauce  (roast  meat  gravy 
skimmed,  strained  and  thickened.) 

r  teaspoon  minced  onion. 

2  of  minced  mushrooms. 
Same  of  parsley. 

Juice  of  I  lemon , 

Cayenne  and  salt. 

Pour  half  the  juice  from  a  can  of  muih- 
rooms  into  the  brown  sauce,  add  the 
ether  ingredients  and  boil  for  15  minutes. 
A  better  appeaance  can  be  secured  if  rime 
allows  when  serving  to  retain  the  parsley 


SAN  I^RANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


g6 


which  loses  color  in  the  sauce  and  add  it 
iT\  each  dish .  If  Spanish  sauce  be  at  hand 
i»  can  be  used  in  place  of  meat  gravy. 


790— Small  Patties  a  la  Toulouse 


Puff  paste  shells  filled  with  a  ragout 
of  brains,  chicken  and  mushrooms . 

Boil  the  brains  taken  from  the  calf  s 
head  used  for  soup,  cut  when  cold  into 
large  dice,  cut  white  meat  of  chicken  the 
same  way  and  slice  a  proportion  of  mush- 
rooms .  It  does  not  take  much  to  fill  pat- 
ties, perhaps  half  cupful  of  each  will  be 
sufficient .  Make  white  sauce,  season  well, 
put  in  the  meats  and  keep  hot  to  fill  the 
patties  with  as  wanted.  Toulouse  is  a 
part  of  France  where  the  most  mush- 
rooms were  found  before  they  were 
grpwn  artificially. 


791— String    Beans  in  Espagnole. 

Boil  the  beans  and  pour  over    them 
rich  meat  gravy  or  bro^vn  sauce  No.  576 . 


792— Boiled  Cinnamon  Pudding. 


The  English  suet  pudding  No.  732,  with 
a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon  added 
has  a  pink  color  and  forms  another  va- 
riation among  the  kinds  which  can  be 
made  with  suet,  saving  butter  and  eggs. 


Dinner. 

July  29 

Soup— Consomme  imperial  (8  qts  56 
cents.) 

Red  snapper  a  Tlndienne  {3  lbs  and 
sauce  48  cents.) 

Rice  au  gratin  (with  the  fish  instead  of 
potatoes.) 

Boiled  ham  with  greens  (8  orders  i  lb 
and  greens  18  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (sirloin  5  lbs  65  cents.) 

Shoulder  of  veal  stuffed  (4  lbs  in  all  50 
cents.) 

Calf's  head,  turtle  style  (3^  head  and 
feet  40  with  sauce  55  cents.) 

Scallops  of  mutton  a  la  Provencale  (8 
orders  i  lb  net  and  sauce  18  cents. ) 

Baked  beans  and  pork  (i  lb  beans  4 
oz  pork  2  qts  10  cents.) 


Summer  beets  9,  cabbage  5,  green  peas 
15,  corn  15,  potatoes  2  ways  12,  (58  cents.) 

Clacked  wheat  pudding  with  maple  sy- 
rup (No.  392 ;  with  sauce  24  cents.) 

Apple  cream  pie  (4  pies  33  cents.) 

Lemon  ice  cream  (starch  and  milk,  no 
eggs,  3  qts  and  freezing  40  cents.) 

Cake  assorted  kinds  (2  lbs  20  cents.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  crackers,  cheese,  pickles, 
(average  49  cents.) 

Milk,  cream,  butter,  bread,  coffee,  tea, 
sugar,  $1  00. 

Total,  $6.44 ;  49  persons ;  fraction-over 
13  cents  a  plate. 

793— Consomme  Imperial. 


Almost  the  same  as  royal.  No.  139. 
The  egg  custards  can  be  cut  with  a  round 
cutter  instead  of  in  diamonds,  and  add 
a  half  pint  of  Madeira  or  sherry.  A  lib- 
eral allowance  of  extract  of  meat  should 
be  used  when  desired  to  make  this  con- 
somme of  good  quality  in  places  where 
there  is  no  poultry  to  be  had,  and  the  ex- 
tract makGS  it  unnecessary  to  use  color- 
ing,as  it  imparts  a  very  rich  color  itself. 


794— Red  Snapper  a    Tlndienne, 
with  Curry  Sauce. 


or 


Fish  baked  in  currjr  sauce  with  a  bor- 
der of  rice  baked  with  it  in  the  same  dish. 

Any  dish  that  is  said  to  be  a  ITndienne 
may  be  expected  to  contain  curry  pow- 
der or  curry  paste. 

Brush  a  "baking  pan  or  dish  with  but- 
ter, skin  3  lbs  of  fish  and  cut  it  into  suit- 
able pieces  to  serve.  About  half  the  peo- 
ple will  not  take  fish  and  this  amount 
will  make  from  24  to  30  portions.  Place 
them  in  the  dish  m  close  order. 

Take  some  cooked  rice,  season  it  with 
salt  and  milk  and  i  egg  or  the  yolk  only 
and  make  a  raised  border  of  it  all  around 
the  edge  of  the  baking  dish.  Use  a  wet 
knife  to  smooth  it  over.  Set  the  dish  in 
the  oven  for  15  minutes  for  the  fish  to  be- 
come partly  cooked  then  pour  in  enough 
curry  sauce  to  almost  cover,  and  bake 
a^ain  until  the  surface  of  both  fish  and 
nee  border  is  brown.  Serve  a  portion 
of  rice  with  each  order  and  the  curry 
sauce  belonging. 


97 


COOKING  J^OR  PROMT, 


7S5— Curry  Sance 

Mince  an  onion  extremely  fine,  put  it 
in  a  small  saucepan  with  butter  and  stir 
over  the  fire  until  it  is  cooked  without 
browning ;  put  in  three  times  as  much 
grated  cocoanut  as  there  was  onion  (dry 
cocoanut  will  do  but  not  sweet)  and  a 
heaped  teaspoonful  of  curry  powder. 
When  these  are  hot  add  a  pmt  of  light 
brown  sauce  (No  576)  or  Spanish  sauce  or 
fresh  made  gravy  from  the  meat  pans. 
Skim  off  the  tat,  add  a  pinch  of  cayenne 
and  pour  it  over  the  fish  or  chicken  or 
whatever  is  ta  be  baked  in  the  above  re- 
ceipt. 


796— Call's  Head,  a  ta  lortue,  orin 
Turtle  Style. 


Calf  s  head  previously  cooked,  cut  in 
pieces  in  a  brown  sauce  contaming  olives, 
mushrooms,  wine  quenelles  or  egg  balls 
and  mushroom  liquor.  Cut  the  half  head 
and  the  boneless  feet  reserved  from  the 
mock  turtle  soup,  making  into  pieces  of 
even  size  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  of 
Spanish  sauce  (No  784)  or  good  bright 
pan  gravy  with  a  seasoning  of  tomato, 
add  a  small  portion  of  each  of  the  ingre- 
dients above  named,  and  make  hoi .  The 
olives  should  have  the  stones  taken  out 
by  means  of  a  small  corer  out  of  the  col- 
umn box,  or  by  running  a  penknife 
around.  It  is  a  great  improvement  to 
the  appearance  to  add  egg-balls  as  a  gar- 
niture.   Tortue  is  French  for  turtle. 


797— Eqg  Quenelles  for  Turtle  Sauce 
and  Soup^ 

2  hard  boiled  yolks. 

54  as  much  hot  boiled  potato. 

I  teaspoon  chopped  parsley. 

Cayenne  and  salt. 

I  raw  yolk. 

Mash  all  together.  Make  up  in  balls 
size  of  cherries,  with  flour  on  the  hands. 
Poach  them  a  minute  or  two  in  a  frying- 
pan  of  boiling  water.  Take  up  on  a  skim- 
mer and  drop  them  into  the  soup. 


798— Forcemeat  Balls  or  Quenelles. 


cold  veal. 

y2  the  weight  of  fine  bread  crumbs. 

2  or  3  tablespoons  melted  butter. 

Seasoning  of  sweet  herbs,  and  nutmeg. 

Pepper  and  salt. 

I  raw  egg. 

Mince  the  meat  small,  add  the  other 
ingredients,  and  pound  them  all  togeth- 
er. Make  up  in  little  balls,  with  Iflour 
on  the  hands.  Poach  them  in  boiling 
water  and  put  them  in  the  soup. 

The  above  two  mixtures  can  be  used 
as  croquettes,  made  into  shapes,  and  fried 
and  are  good  to  place  as  ornamental 
acessories  in  the  sauces  to  fish  and 
meats. 


Yi  a  calfs  tongue,  cooked,  or  some 


799~Scallops  of  Mutton,  Provencale 
or  Creole 

A  scallop  of  meat  is'a  thin  slice  or  steak, 
as  is  the  Scotch  coUop  and  the  French 
escalope.  Anything  a  la  Provencale  in 
French  cookery  is  the  same  as  a  la  Creole 
in  American,  it  implies  tomatoes,  onions, 
cayenne,  oil,  wine  and  sometimes  garlic. 

For  this  dish  cut  small  slices  of  mutton, 
saute  them  first  in  a  frying  pan,  light 
brown,  then  simmer  in  water,  stock  or 
sauce  until  they  are  tender  and  add  suf- 
ficient strained  tomatoes  to  serve  as  a 
sauce.  Season  the^  meat  and  sauce 
while  stewing  with  onion,  salt  and  pepper, 
A  leaf  shape  of  fried  bread  is  a  good  orn- 
ame*it  to  the  dish. 


800— Apple  Cream  Pie 


2  cups  stewed  apple — a  pint. 

I  cup  sugar — ^  pound. 

I  cup  milk. 

Yz  cup  butter — ^  pound 

4  eggs  (or  8  yolks  if  any  left  over) 

^  cup  sherry  or  nutmeg  or  lemon 
flavoring. 

Have  the  apples  dry  by  cooking  with 
scarcely  any  water  but  the  steam  -shut  in, 
mix  apples,  sugar  and  butter  together 
and  milk  and  eggs  together,  stir  up  all 
and  flavor.  Make  5  cupfuls,  enough  for 
4  pies  large  family  size  to  cut  in  6  or  8, 
like  a  custard  with  no  top  crust.^  Cost, 
with  wine  31  cents,  without  wine  25; 
crust  for  4  pies  8  cents. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


9S 


Dinner 

'July  30- 

Soup— Potage  a  V  Andalouse  (8qts^  48 
cents.) 

Sliced  cucumbers  and  tomatoes  (12  cts.) 

Broiled  whitefish,  Venitienne  (4  lbs  and 
sauce  52  cents.) 

Potatoes  dauphine. 

Boiled  corned  tongue  (28  cents) 

Roast  beef  (i  rib  2^  lbs  net  32  cents) 

Spring  lamb,  mint  sauce,  (6  lbs  and 
sauce  75  cents.) 

Veal  stew  a  la    Milanaise  (ij^  lbs  and 
trimmings  23  cents.) 

Rissoles  of  sweetbreads  with  truffles  (28 
orders  60  cents.) 

Beets  in  sauce  io,rice  5,  green  peas  15, 
string  beans  4,  com  15,  tomatoes  8,  pota- 
toes 12,  (69  cents.) 

Steamed  currant  roll  (No.  809 ;  2  lbs 
with  sauce  18  cents.) 

Pumpkin  pie  (No.  810;  without  eggs,  3 
large,  20  cent's.) 

Rasberry  tarts  (24  tarts  30  cents .) 

Delmonico  ice  cream  (No  201 ;  3  qts  80 
cents.) 

Chocolate  and  rose  kisses  (No  461 ; 
20  cents.) 

Cake,  assorted  kinds  (15  cents.) 

Milk,  cream,  butter,  bread,  cheese, 
pickles,  coffee,  tea,  sugar  and  crackers 
(I. IS) 

Total,  $6.97;  49  persons;  fraction  over 
14  cents  a  plate. 

The  dinner  above  prepared  for  49  per- 
sons was  partaken  of  by  only  32,  the  rest 
being  away  across  the  lake.  Much  pro- 
vision was  left  over  to  be  taken  care  of 
as  best  it  may,  some  for  supper  and 
breakfast,  some  for  the  next  day's  dinner. 

801— Potage  a  I'Andalouse. 

Andalusian  or  Spanish  soup.  Make 
same  as  directed  for  Spanish  sauce  with 
twice  as  much  tomatoes.  It  is  a  brown 
tomato  soup  with  a  light  flavor  of  garlic. 
Serve  a  few  croutons  in  the  plates. 

802— Broiled      Whitefish,     Venetian 
Sauce. 


minutes  before  it  is  wanted.  Serve  Vene- 
tian sauce  and  dauphine  potatoes  in  the 
same  plate  with  the  fish. 

£03— Venetiaa  Sauce  for  Fish 


Make  drawn  butter  (butter  sauce)  a  lit- 
tle thinner  than  usual  for  that  sauce,  with 
a  liberal  amount  of  the  best  butter  beaten 
in.  Add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  some 
minced  parsley  and  minced  capers.  A 
cupful  of  sauce  is  enough  and  the  expense 
is  small  for  just  sufficient  to  fill  the  bill . 


804  —  Potatoes  a  la  Dauphine. 


They  are  potato  croquettes  of  a  flat- 
tened shape. 

Take  4  or  5  potatoes  out  of  the  steam- 
er and  mash  them  with  the  yolk  of  i  egg, 
salt  and  a  grating  of  nutmeg.  If  very 
dry  a  smalllump  of  butter  may  be  added. 
Make  them  out  in  flattened  pats,  very 
much  like  figs  as  they  are  pressed  in  boxes, 
dip  in  egg  and  cracker  meal  and  fry  to  a 
fine  yellow  color  in  hot  lard .  Serve  with 
fish  or  with  meat  entrees.  Potatoes  in 
this  form  are  fine  as  ornaments  but  most 
tedious  of  any  to  prepare,  requiring  three 
or  four  separate  operations. 


805— Veal  Stew.  Milanaise 


Split  the  fish  and  cut  in  small  pieces. 
Broil  m  the  oyster  broiler  only  a  few 


Stew  pieces  of  veal  the  same  as  for  pot; 

Eie;  also,  boil  4  ounces  of  macaroni 
roken  in  short  lengths  and  when  done 
drain  dry  and  season  it.  Dish  up  maca- 
roni in  the  individual  dish  with  stewed 
veal  placed  upon  it.  Milanaise  means 
in  Italian  style,  or  of  the  city  of  Milan  in 
Italy. 


806— Rissoles   of  Sweetb.eads   with 
Truffles. 

Sweetbreads  cut  small  in  very  stiff 
sauce  rolled  up    in  pie-paste  and  fried. 

Boil  and  then  cut  small  4  or  5  sweet- 
breads. Take  ^  cup  of  mincea  onion 
and  the  same  of  mushrooms  and  Yz  cup 
butter  and  stir  them  over  the  fire,  then 
put  in  54  cup  sifted  flour  and  when  that 
is  heated  through,  add  a  cup  of  broth  or 
mushroom  liquor  from  the  can  gradually, 
stirring  it  up  to  a  very  thick  sauce.  Sear 


99 


COOKING  FOR  PR0FI7. 


son  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg  and 
then  mix  in  the  sweetbreads.  Let  the 
mixture  become  cold.  There  will  be  a- 
bout  32  ounces,  making  32  rissoles.  Add 
a  slice  of  truffle  to  each  one.  Roll  out 
good  pie  paste  as  thin  as  card  board,  cut 
squares  the  length  of  a  finger  place  the 
sweetbread  mixture  in  the  middle,  roll 
up  with  the  ends  doubled  in  and  touch 
the  edge  with  a  little  beaten  egg  to  make 
it  stick.  Drop  into  a  kettle  of'lard  mod- 
erately hot  and  fry  light-colored.  Serve 
a  good  sauce  in  the  dish,  or  green  peas 
in  sauce  by  way  of  garnish  to  the  rissole. 


807 — Corn  and  Tomatoes. 


Sll—Pumpkin     Pie   without     Eggs- 
Richer. 


4  cups  stewed  squash  or  pumpkin — a 
quart. 

Yt.  cup  sugar. 

K  cup  butter. 

2  lai^e  basting  spoons  of  flour  ^  nd  wa- 
ter to  thicken  it. 

I  teaspoon  cinnamon. 

I  teaspoon  ground  ginger. 

Melt  the  butter,  stir  all  together.  Fill 
two  or  three  pies  and  bake  a  long  time. 
Cost ;  a  quart  pumpkm  8,  sugar  2,  butter 
3,  spice  i;  14  cents,  crust  2  cents 
each  pie. 


Cut  com  from  the  cob  and  instead  of 
the    usual   milk   dressing,    mix  it  with 
Stewed  tomatoes,  salt  and  little  butter,  I 
<ind  serve. 


808-  Sweet  Tomatoes. 


Peel  tomatoes  and  put  them  in  a  pan 
with  sugar  enough  to  cover  and  bake  in 
a  slow  oven .  The  sugar  melts,  then 
dries  down  to  syrup,  and  tomatoes  that 
way  are  esteemed  a  luxury  among  dinner 
vegetables  by  many  at  the  South 


809— Currant  Suet  Roll. 


812— Pumpkin  Butter  for  Tarts. 

4  cups  pumpkin  cooked  dry. 

2  cups  sugar. 

Vz  cup  butter. 

Grated  rind  of  a  lemon  or  some  kind 
of  spice  flavor.  Mash  the  pumpkin 
through  a  colander,  mix  in  the  other  in- 
gredients, stew  down  rich  and  thick. 
Will  keep  a  long  time.         ^ 


Dinner. 


One  of  the  cheapest  and  best  boiled 
puddings. 

3  cups  flour— 1^  pound 

2  lai^e  cups  minced  suet — ^pound. 

I  heaped  cup  raisins  or  currants — J^lb. 

I  cup  water'. 

Salt. 

Mix  all  together.  Make  the  dough  in- 
to a  long  roll,  solid;  tie  it  up  in  a  cloth, 
pin  or  sew  in  two  places,  boil  2  hours . 
It  is  best  when  the  dough  is  made  up  very  | 
soft,  almost  too  soft  to  be  handled.  Dip 
in  cold  water  when  done  to  get  it  out  of 
the  cloth,  serve  with  sauce. 


Milanaise    (7  qts 
pickled  beets 


810- -Sauce   Dipiomate  for  Puddings. 


Sugar  and  water  boiled  and  thickened 
with  flour,  allowed  to  simmer  until  clear, 
red  fruit  juice  or  wine,  lemon  and  mace 
added. 


July  31 

Soup — Consomme 
40  cents). 

Tomatoes,  cucumbers 
on  the  table  (12  cents). 

Fillets  of  trout  a  la  Momey  (6  lbs  grass 
and  trimmings  70  cents). 

Potatoes  au  gratin . 

Boiled  tongue  (from  previous  day). 

Roast    beef  (reserved  from    previous 
day.) 

Roast  pork,  apple  sauce  (3^^  lbs  and 
sauce  47  cents.) 

Rib-ends  beef  and  Yorkshire  pudding 
(No.  144;  3  lbs  ribs  21,  pudding.  No,  815; 
!  II,  14  orders  32  cents.) 

Lamb  stew,  jardiniere  (3  lbs.  lamb  and 
trimmings  40  cents) 

Green  com  fritters,  cream  sauce  (20 
fritters  and  sauce  20  cents.) 

String  beans  2,  beets  4,  cabbage  10, 
tomatoes  12,  rice  4,  potatoes  14,  (46 
cents.) 

West  Point  pudding  (No,  820;  2  qts 
and  sauce  20  cents.) 
Frozen  rice  custard  (No,  222 ;  3  quarts 


SAN  J^RANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


lOO 


and  freezing  50  cents.) 
Cake,  assorted  kinds  (20  cents.) 
Milk,  buttermilk,  cream  {47  cents.) 
Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers,  pickles, 

coffee,  tea,  butter,  bread,(75  cents) 
Total,  $5.44;  48  persons;  11^  cents  a 

plate. 

The  dinner  above  prepared  for  48  was 
partaken  of  by  only  37,  the  others  being 
out  on  excursions,  i  here  will  be  some 
waste  and  things  available —  such  as  cold 
meats — for  succeeding  meals,  and  pastry- 
cake  and  ice  cream  disappear  by  myster- 
ious means  after  meals  and  at  night. 

813— Consomme  Milanaise. 


Clear  consomme  with  short  cut  maca- 
roni or  spaghetti  or  fidelini  in  it  and  red 
corned  or  smoked  tongue  cut  in  shreds 
size  of  Julienne  vegetables.  Cook  the 
macaroni  or  spaghetti  separately,  wash 
off  in  cold  water  and  place  ready  to  drop 
a  spoonful  in  each  plate — precaution  to 
avoid  spoiling  the  clearness  of  the  con- 
somme. The  shred  tongue  makes  no 
difference. 


814— Fillets  of  Trout,a  la  Morny 

Small  fillets  doubled  up  in  order  in 
a  dish,  a  raised  border  of  potato  around 
and  all  baked  brown,  with  sauce. 
Morny  is  the  title  of  a  French  duke.  A 
large  platter  such  as  is  used  to  dish  up  a 
whole  turkey  for  a  family  dinner,  should 
be  devoted  to  the  purpose  of  cooking  fish 
in  this  way,  which  is  like  the  rice-bor- 
dered dish  No.  794,  and  if  it  can  be  a 
metal  chafing-dish  of  the  same  shape  it, 
will  be  the  better.  If  no  dish  can  be  had 
a  shallow  baking  pan  can  be  made  to  an- 
swer tolerably  well,  but  it  does  not  hold 
the  border  above  the  fish  gravy. 

Cut  as  many  thin  slices  lengthwise  of 
the  fish  as  there  will  be  orders,  which 
may  be  about  two  thirds  the  number  of 
people,  place  them,  doubled,  close  to- 
gether till  the  dish  is  full.  Mash  potatoes 
with  egg-yolk  salt  and  nutmeg  same  as 
for  croquettes  and  make  a  border  all  a- 
round  and  brush  with  egg.  Mince  a 
small  onion,  twice  as  much  mushrooms, 
strew  them  amongst  the  fillets.  Add  half 
cup  white  wine  to  a  pint  or  white  sauce 


(No.  819)  pour  over  the  fish  and  bake  on 
the  bottom  of  the  oven  about  half  an. 
hour.  Serve  potatoes,  a  fillet  of  fish  and 
some  of  the  sauce  in  the  same  plate. 


815— Yorkshire    Pudding  with  Riast 
Meats. 

A  rich  egg-batter  pudding;  can  also  be 
served  with  sweet  sauce. 

lYz  cups  flour — 6  ounces. 

3  cups  milk — V/2,  pints. 

I  ounce  butter,  melted. 

3  eggs. 

Salt. 

y^  teaspoon  baking  powder. 

Mix  the  flour  and  milk  carefully  not 
to  have  it  full  of  lumps,  add  the  melted 
butter,  salt,  pinch  of  powder,  the  eggs  well 
beaten  and  beat  up  thoroughly.  Butter 
a  small  baking  pan  and  make  it  warm  in 
the  oven,  pour  the  batter  in  only  about 
y^  inch  deep  and  bake  15  or  20  minutes. 
Water  instead  of  milk  can  be  used,  but 
then  a  tablespoon  of  syrup  should  be  ad- 
ded to  cause  it  to  brown  quickly  without 
drying  out.  Cut  squares  and  serve  with 
roast  beei  and  gravy. 


816— Lamb  Slew,  a  la  Jardiniere. 


Jardiniere  is  French  for  gardener;  the 
made  jardiniere  always  implies  the  use  of 
a  mixed  lot  of  vegetables.  There  are 
jardiniere  cutters  to  be  bought  which  cut 
vegetables  in  various  fancy  shapes  effect- 
ing a  great  saving  of  time. 

Chop  up  the  breasts  and  neck  of  lamb 
or  mutton,  stew  until  tender,^  let  boil 
nearly  dry,  skim,  season  and  thicken  the 
liquor  that  remains.  Cut  carrots,  white 
and  yellow  turnips,  Kohl-rabi  or  cabbage- 
turnips,  leeks,  onions  and  string  beans, 
all  or  any  of  them,  into  dice  or  like  peas 
with  a  scoop  cutter,  and  boil  until  done, 
drain  off  and  pour  some  Spanish  sauce 
or  light  brown  sauce  to  them.  Serve 
the  vegetables  as  a  border  in  the  dish 
with  stewed  lamb  in  the  center. 


817— Green  Corn  Fritters. 

I  heaped  cup  com. 
^  cup  butter. 
^  cup  flour. 


WI 


COOKING  JFOR  PROFIT, 


I  cup  milk  or  water. 

I  egg. 

Salt  and  pepper. 

Batter  to  fry  in. 

The  com  may  be  either  from  a  can  of 
the  dry  solid  packed  sort  or  else  green 
com  shaved  on  the  cob. 

Make  white  roux  first  by  stirring  the 
butter  and  flour  over  the  fire,  add  milk  to 
make  stiff  sauce,  stir  in  the  com,  season, 
and  then  put  the  mixture  which  is  a  stiff 
paste  an  inch  deep  in  the  pan  to  get  cold. 
Cut  pieces  two  inches  long,  dip  in  thin 
batter  (same  as  if  made  for  pancakes)  and 
fry  light  colored  in  hot  lard .  Have  a 
cupful  of  cream  sauce  ready  and  serve  a 
spoonful  under  each  fritter.  Another 
and  easier  way  may  be  found  by  refer- 
ence to  the  index. 


818-— Cabbage  au  Veloute. 

Means  cabbage  in  white  sauce,  as  en 
Espagnole  means  brown  sauce.  Chop 
the  cabbage,  season  it,  serve  a  spoonful 
to  a  dish  with  sauce  veloute  poured  over 
it. 


819— Sauce  Veloute. 

Is  white  sauce  but  not  cream  sauce 
which  latter  is  called  Bechamel.  The 
word  veloute  means  velvety  or  smooth. 
To  make  the  sauce  take  some  chicken  or 
veal  broth  boiled  down  strong  enough  to 
be  jelly  when  cold,  but,  without  cooling 
it  strain  through  a  napkin  and  use  it  to 
make  butter  sauce  thinner  than  is  usually 
made ;  and  after  that  let  it  slowly  boil  and 
the  butter  (that  the  roux  was  made  with) 
will  rise  to  the  top.  Skim  it  off  and  you 
have  a  bright  veloute  that  is  not  greasy 
and  can  be  used  as  a  stock  sauce  for  white 
dishes  and  for  fish.  This  is  one  of  the 
main  stock  sauces  in  systematic  cookery 
but  in  point  of  fact  is  not  so  necessary  as 
brown  sauce  and  therefore  is  not  made 
in  every  place. 


820— West  Point  Pudding. 


Brown  cracked  wheat  pudding  with 
molasses  and  raisins. 
4  heaped  cups  cracked  wheat  mush. 
Yi  cup  molasses. 


1  cup  minced  suet — ^  ounces, 

2  or  3  eggs, 

3  cups  milk. 

I  teaspoon  ground  cinnamon. 

I  cup  raisins  or  currants. 

Take  cracked  wheat  mush  that  was  left 
over  from  breakfast  and  is  well-cooked 
and  dry,  mix  in  the  other  ingredients, 
eggs  last  and  well  beaten,  and  bake  in  a 
slack  oven  an  hour.  Maple  symp  is  good 
sauce  for  it,  but  hard  sauce  (No  177)  is, 
the  favorite. 


Dinner. 

August  I. 

Soup — Croute-au-pot  (8  qts.  40  cents.) 

Tomatoes,  cucumbers,  (12  cents.) 

Boiled  whitefish,  parsley  sauce  (3  lbs. 
and  sauce  34  cents.) 

New  potatoes  browned. 

Tongue,  comed  beef,  hara  (nominal,  3 
orders,  rest  left  over.) 

Roast  beef  (2  ribs  cut  short,  3  lbs.  36 
cents.) 

Spring  lamb  (6  pounds  and  sauce  75 
cents.) 

Sweetbreads,  au  beurre  noir  (18  orders, 
sweetbreads  5o,butter  10,  olives,  lemon 
11;  71  cents.) 

Ragout  of  veal,  a  la  Julienne  (7  orders 
16  cents.) 

Green  peas  15,  beets  4,  cabbage  10, 
succotash  15,  rice  5,  potatoes  12  (60  cts.) 

Boiled  lemon  pudding  (No.  827 ;  3  lbs. 
with  sauce  27  cents. )  ^ 

Ripe  gooseberry  pie  (3  pies  27  cents. ) 

Tea,  ice  cream  (2  qts.  and  freezing  60 
cents.) 

Chocolate  eclairs  (No.  296;  24  small 
38  cents .) 

Cake,  ripe  fruit,  cheese,  crackers,  (21 
cents.) 

Milk,  buttermilk,  cream  (40  cents. ) 

Butter,  bread,  coffee,  tea  (38  cents. ) 

Total  $  5 .95 ;  46  persons,  13  cents  a 
plate . 

The  dinner  above  prepared  for  46,  par-f 
taken  by  only  37 ;  the  others  away  oa 
summer  raaibles. 


821— Croute-r.u-Pot  Soup. 

Crust-pot  or  crust  soup ;  a  good  soup 
of  mixed  vegetables  and  small  toast. 
Make  the  vegetable  sou[)  No.  140  and 


SAN  liRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


jo^ 


add  tomatoes,  or  the  tomato  soup  No. 
1 66,  and  add  more  vegetables.  Cut 
some  slices  of  bread  extremely  thin  and 
then  in  small  pieces  and  toast  them  in 
the  oven.  Drop  a  few  in  each  plate  when 
serving. 


822--Boiled  Whitefish,  Parsley  Sauce. 


Set  on  the  poissoniere  or  fish-kettle 
half-full  of  water,  put  in  an  onion  stuck 
with  cloves,  a  bayleaf,  salt,  a  handful  of 

Earsley  and  half  cup  vinegar.  When  it 
oils  put  in  the  fish  on  the  moveable 
drainer  bottom  and  boil  gently  about  half 
an  hour.  Slide  off  the  drainer  on  to  a 
dish.  Serve  by  cutting  portions  with  a 
broad  fish  slice.  Parsley  sauce  and  new 
I)otatoes  in  the  same  plate. 


823— Parsley  Sauce. 

Make  good  butter  sauce  (No.  573)and 
add  to  it  a  cupful  of  chopped  parsley 
while  at  boiling  heat. 


824— Sweetbreads  au  Beurre    Noir 


Some  epicures,  apparently  have  discov- 
ered an  agreeable  new  zest  in  butter 
browned  by  frying,  for  it  has  been  em- 
ployed as  a  flavoring  in  sweets  as  well  as 
in  meat  sauces.  The  English  call  it  nut 
brown  butter.  Prepare  the  sweetbreads 
by  boiling  and  pressing  and  when  cold  | 
slice  thinly,  season  and  dip  both  sides  in  ; 
flour  and  have  them  ready  in  a  pan. 
Shortly  before  dinner  make  a  cupful  of 
butter  hot  in  a  fr^^ing  pan.  While  it  is 
frothy  and  beginnmg  to  brown  lay  in  the 
floured  sweetbreads  and  give  them  time 
to  get  brown  on  both  sides .  Serve  when 
done  with  a  little  of  the  butter  upon  them, 
two  or  three  olives  and  quartei  of  lemon 
in  the  dish. 


825— Ragout  of  Veal,  Julienne. 

A  ragout  is  a  mixture  of  meats  and 
ther  edibles  cut  small  in  a  sauce.  Elab- 
orate mixtures  of  this  sort  are  some- 
oimes  served  like  a  sauce  to  larger  meats, 
and  again,  are  served  in  this  way.  Cut 
a  piece  of  veal  into  large  dice  and  a  kid- 
ney and  slice   or  two  of  salt  pork:  into 


pieces  only  half  as  large.  _  Stir  them  over 
the  fire  in  a  saucepan  with  a  spoonful 
of  fat  or  oil  until  they  are  slightly  browned, 
then  drain  off  all  the  fat  throw  in  a  few 
sliced  mushrooms,  a  sprinkling  of  onion 
and  garlic  and  pour  in  enough  Spanish 
sauce  to  cover,  or,  if  no  sauce  ready  use 
light  brown  gravy. 

For  the  border  cut  Julienne  vegetables 
as  if  for  soup,  boil  them,  drain,  mix  in  a 
white  sauce  (some  of  the  same  made  for 
the  fish)  and  put  a  spoonful  in  each  dish, 
making  a  hollow  with  the  spoon  and  the 
ragout  in  the  middle. 

A  Saratoga  potato  slicer  is  a  help  in 
cutting  Julienne,  which  is  rather  a  ted- 
ious operation  without.  The  thin  slices 
can  be  laid  together  and  shreded  finely. 


826— Succotash. 


Com  and  beans  mixed  together  is 
called  succotash;  butter  beans  is  the 
kind  preferred  but  all  sorts  of  green  gar- 
den beans  are  used.  Season  as  com 
alone  would  be  seasoned,  with  a  little 
sauce  made  of  milk,  butter  and  salt,  or, 
with  salt  alone. 


827— Boiled  Lemon  Pudding, 


A  lemon  suet  pudding ;  pale  yellow^ 
rich. 

2  cups  flour— J4  pound. 

2  cups  minced  suet — impound. 

2  solid  cups  minced  bread — j^  pound. 

y2  cup  sugar 

2  lemons. 

2  eggs . 

2  cups  milk— a  pmt. 

V2  teaspoon  soda. 

Same  of  salt. 

Make  the  bread  crumbs  fine  by  grating 
or  mincing.  Grate  the  lemon  rinds  into 
it,  put  soda  in  flour,  mix  dry  articles  to- 
gether, wet  with  the  eggs  and  milk  and 
stir  up  thoroughly.  Tie  up  in  pudding 
bag  or  mould  and  boil  2  hours.  Cost 
of  pudding  21  cents  for  3  pounds  or  two 
quarts. 

828-  Tea  Ice  Cream. 


Can  onlj;  be  made  with  pure  sweet» 
cream  as  it  is  not  good  with  custard  or 


^os 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


starch,  but  fine  if  made  right.    Sweeten  ( 
2  quarts  of  cream  with   2  cups  sugar  and  1 
add  I  cup  strong  tea  made  as  for  drinking 
and  freeze  as  usual. 

Dinner. 


August  2. 

Soup — Consomme  Calcutta  (6  quarts 
35  cents.) 

Sliced  tomatoes  and  cucumbers  (on  ta- 
ble; 10  cents.) 

Fillets  of  sole,  a  la  tartare  (5  pounds 
grass  and  lauce  70  cents .) 
Potatoes  duchesse . 

Corned  beef  and  cabbage  (2  lbs  and 
cabbage  21  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (from  previous  day  and  i 
lb  13  cents. 

Spring  lamb,  mint  sauce  (fore  quarter 
6  lbs  75  cents. 

Veal  with  dressing  (shoulder  boned,  3 
lbs  net  and  dressing  45  cents .) 

Scrambled  sweetbreads,  puree  of  peas 
(part  charged  yesterday ;  20  cents.) 

Turnips  mashed  5,  rice  5,  string  beans 
4,  corn  12,  tomatoes  10,  potatoes  12  (48 
cents.) 

Pineapple  fritters  (2  cans  pineapple  50, 
batter,  frj'ing  ro,  sauce  7,  30  fritters  67 
cents.) 

Raspberry  tarts  (small  open  pies,  puff 
paste,  cut  in  three;   18  orders  27  cents.) 
Vanilla  jelly  (i  qt  25  cents.) 
Chocolate  ice  cream  (3  pints  cream,  i 
pint  milk  2  oz  chocolate    etc,  60  cents.) 
Cakes  assorted  (i  lb  10  cents) 
Milk,  cream,  buttermilk  (40  cents.) 
Nuts,  raisins,   cheese,  crackers,  condi- 
ments (38  cents.) 

Coffee,  tea,  butter,  bread,  sngar  (32 
cents.) 

Total  $6,36;  43  persons,  nearly  15 
cents  a  plate. 


omitted;  for  a  light  brown  color  is  to  be 
obtained  by  some  means  and  meat  ex- 
tract is  the  best  where  a  choice  of  mate- 
rials for  soup  making  is  not  offered. 

The  consomme  having  been  prepared 
rub  some  tomatoes  through  a  coarse 
strainer,  drain  away  partof  tne  juice  and 
simmer  down  the  pulp  until  it  is  thick; 
add  a  teaspoon  of  curry  powder  and  a 
good  pincn  of  cayenne  and  salt.  Drop 
a  little  into  the  consonime  on  serving  in 
the  plates,  without  mixing  them . 


829— Consomme  Calcutta. 

Clear  consomme  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
pulp  of  tomato  curry,  and  cayenne  (or 
Tobasco  or  Chili  sauce)  in  each  plate. 

Make  and  clarify  the  consomme  ac- 
cording to  directons  for  royal  at  No  139 
with  the  difference  that  either  fowls 
roasted  brown  or  brown  glaze  made  by 
boiling  down  meat,  or  else  the  prepared 
extract  of  meat  should  be  used  to  make 
good  consomme  and  coloring  substitutes 


830— Fillets  of  Sole,  a  la  Tartare. 

The  sole  is  a  fiat-fish  much  esteemed 
in  the  seaports  where  it  is  khown  and 
often  represented  by  some  good  substitute 
in  the  interiors  where  it  is  not  known. 
The  fillets  are  the  boneless  strips  of  fish 
left  when  the  broad  spine  has  been  cut 
out  and  fins  removed. 

Roll  up  the  thin  fillets,  trim  one  end 
of  the  roll  so  that  they  will  stand,  dip  in 
beaten  egg  and  cracker  meal  and  allow 
to  pass  inside  to  stick  the  wrap  together, 
set  them  in  a  baking  pan,  make  some  lard 
hot  and  pour  around  the  fillets  and  so 
bake  them  brown  in  the  oven.  But  if 
you  have  a  proper  fry-basket  you  can  fry 
them  in  the  usual  manner  without  their 
losing  shape.  When  done  drain  on  a 
sheet  of  paper  laid  in  a  pan,  sprinkle 
with  fine  salt  and  serve  hot  with  some 
special  form  of  potatoes  in  the  same  plate, 
and  tartar  sauce  in  a  buttei  chip,  sepa- 
rately. 


831— Potatoes  a  la  Duchesse. 


Take  4  or  5  potatoes  out  of  the  dinner 
steamer  and  mash  them  with  a  seasoning 
of  salt,  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and  grating  ot 
nutmeg  or  pinch  of  ground  mace.  When 
perfectly  smooth  roll  it  on  the  flour  board, 
cut  off  balls  larger  than  walnuts,  flatten 
and  pinch  them  up  to  a  thick  leaf  shape, 
mark  the  tops  with  back  of  the  knife,  set 
in  a  buttered  pan.  wash  over  with  egg 
and  bake  to  a  fine  color .  Serve  with 
fish  or  with  entrees,  as  an  ornamental 
garnish. 


832— Scrambled    Sweetbreads     with 
Puree  of  Peas. 


Cut  up  cooked  sweetbreads  into  large 


.L.^--^^ 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


104. 


dice  and  put  them  in  a  buttered  pan  into 
about  half  the  amount  of  raw  eggs,  or  5 
egjj;s  to  a  pound  of  sweetbreads.  Grate 
in  a  little  nutmeg,  add  salt  and  pepper 
and  keep  covered  until  time  to  cook. 
Mash  some  green  peas — the  greener  the 
better,  but  those  left  over  from  the  pre- 
vious day  are  as  good  as  if  newly  cooked 
— and  rub  them  through  a  strainer  adding 
a  little  hot  broth  or  white  sauce  to  help 
pass  the  puree ;  season  and  set  it  to  get 
warm. 

Stir  the  sweetbreads  and  eggs  over  the 
fire  until  soft  cooked.  Place  a  spoonful 
of  the  green  puree  in  the  small  dish  in 
the  manner  of  a  border  and  the  scram- 
bled sweetbreads  in  the  middle. 


835— Vanilla  Jelly. 


Sweet  jelly  of  gelatine  (No  465)  made 

with  a  little  lemon  juice   to   help  in   the 

clarifying  but  without  lemon  pee  land  a 

I  flavoring  of  vanilla  instead.    Color  like 

j  golden  syrup  with  few  drops  burnt  sugar 

caramel.    (See  No  694. ) 


833— Pineapole    Fritters   and  Sauce 


Open  2  cans  pineapple,  save  the  juice 
cut  the  larger  slices  in  two. 
For  the  batter : 
2  cups  flour. 

1  small  teaspoon  baking  powder. 

2  eggs . 

I  cup  milk  or  water. 

I  tablespoon  oil  or  melted  lard. 

Pinch  of  salt. 

Put  all  at  once  into  a  small  pail  or  deep 
pan  and  beat  up  with  a  spoon.  Put  in 
the  pineapple  slices,  take  up  well  coated 
with  batter  and  drop  into  a  kettle  of  hot 
lard.  Fry  light-colored.  Drain  well  and 
break  off  the  rough  edges.  Serve  with 
thick  sauce  in  the  dish.  To  have  fritters 
of  good  shape  the  batter  should  be  made 
thin.  Too  much  lightness  makes  them 
absorb  grease.  To  have  them  of  very 
light  color  use  water  instead  of  milk  in 
the  batter — but  some  people  must  have 
them  well  browned,  which  calls  for  milk 
or  a  spoonful  of  syrup  mixed  in  . 


834-'Pinaapple  Sauce. 


naif  pmeapple  juice  and  half  water,  a 
cup  of  su^ar  to  2  cups  of  it,  and  a  table- 
spoon of  starch .  Boil  and  color  pink 
with  raspberry  or  other  fruit  juice.  It 
should  be  thick  enough  to  coat  over  a 
fritter  and  glaze  it,  and  when  so  used  the 
articles  arc  put  on  the  bill  ot  fare  as  **pine- 
apple  fritcers  glace." 


August  3. 

We_  have  a  ne\y  boarder  this  morning 
but  his  meals  wili  not  count  at  present^ 
Early^  breakfast  ordered  for  a  doctor  who 
is  going  away.  I  hope  no  sickness  has 
broken  out  at  our  resort.  My  "sec"  has 
an  unusual  amount  of  business  to  talk 
over  with  the  other  girls  and  has  let  the 
Lyonaise  potatoes  burn  up. 

At  seven  o'clock  a  little  three-year-old 
comes  running  over  the  croquette  ground 
to  tell  me  that  the  doctor  has  broughther 
a  new  brother  and  I  ask  her  what  she'll 
take,  but  she  says  ma  won't  let  her  eat 
anything  before  breakfast  time. 

There  the  nurse  comes  to  borrow  my 
scales  without  saying  what  for. 

When  she  brings  them  back  she  says 
"just  twelve  pounds  and  only  half-a- 
pound  to  take  off  for  the  wraps. " 

Now,  that  must  be  pretty  good  weight 
for  the  newspaper  paragraphs  generally 
quote  them  at  ten  j;ounds.  You  see, 
Mrs  Tingee,  the  effects  of  good  cooking 
and  good  feeding — everything  is  sleek 
and  fat  around  here. 


Only  37  is  the  house-count  to-day 
though  it  went  up  with  the  thermometer 
and  touched  49  during  the  week,  and  I 
expect  everyone  will  be  on  time  to  dinner 
as  no  person  in  this  house  excursionize 
on  Sunday.  If  there  wis  not  something 
to  expect  from  the  advertising  that  is  cut 
it  would  look  as  though  the  past  week  was 
the  culmination  of  our  season's  business 
and  small  affair  it  would  be.  But  the 
advertising  is  bound  to  work  a  change ;  it 
has  torn  up  all  our  peace  and  quietness 
already  in  one  way  and  made  great 
trouble  with  the  meals,  getting  them  or- 
dered an  hour  earlier  or  an  hour  later  or 
divided  in  two  or  three  or  turned  into  half 
meal  and  half  picnic  lunch  and  making 
dinner  small  and  disappointing  by  the  ab- 
sence of  guests,and  supper  large  and  vex- 
atious through  their  unwonted  promptness 
and    inexpressible    appetites.    For    this 


jqS 


COOKING  FOR  PROFITX 


small  but  romantic  Uintah   Lake  in  the 
State  of  Cornucopia  is  a  most  interesting 
locality  when  its  merits  are  once  known. 
There  is  no  end  to  the  places  and  objects 
to  be  seen  if  some  knowing  person  will 
clearly  point  them  out.    The  Barnacles 
family  will  talk  about  these  things  well 
enough  it  somebody  else  starts  the  sub- 
ject but  are  the  last  people  to  ever  think 
of  making  any  matter  of  local  interest 
known ;  and  you  might  as  well  look  at  any 
old  and  unremarkable  building  in  any  old 
and  unremarkable  town  as  to  look  at  the 
most  historic  pile  in  Europe  or  elsewhere 
if  you  have  not  a  guide  book  or  other 
informant   to  awaken  your  imagination 
and  interest  by  showing  wherefore  the 
historic  pile  is  forever  famous.    So  that 
is  about  the  way  that  our  little  company 
got  stirred  up  to   an  extent  that  they 
cared  little  for  their  meals,  or  at  least 
were  willing  to  forego  a  dinner  or  two  for 
the  sake  ot  an  exploration,  after  the  pa- 
pers began  to  drop  in,  which  contained 
descriptions    of  "The    Eyrie"  and  the 

g)ints  of  interest  about  Uintah  Lake, 
ver  there  by  the  Barnacles  point  you 
may  see  in  wmdy  weather  when  all  the 
rest  ot  the  lake  is  either  yellow  or  green 
through  shallowness,  there  is  an  expanse 
of  water  that  remains  blue  almost  to  black- 
ness;   it  is  the  unfathomable  place,  the 
well,  the  bottomless  source  of  the  waters 
of  the  lake  which  has  an  outlet  like  a  mill- 
race  but  no  other  inlet,  and  as  soon  as 
that  was  known  there  was  an  early  break- 
fast, the  sailboats  were  brought  into  requi- 
sition and  all  went,  if  only  to  drop  peb- 
bles and  look  into  the  depths  and  im- 
agine, but  some  went  to  heave  thelead, 
and  rinding  no  bottom ;  went  again  next 
day,  and  others  were  led  off  to  a  sequest- 
ered bay  tnat  was  covered  with  a  magnif- 
icent   species  of    water-lily.    There    is 
one    remarkable  hill    on  the  lake  shore 
called  Crystal  Cone;  it  is  covered  with 
pme  and  cedar  and  would  not    be   ob- 
served without  being  pointed  out,  yet  all 
the  houses  in  this  neighborhood  have,  as 
curiosities,  some  specimens  of  the  bril- 
liant rock  cr>'stais  that  are  found  there 
sometimes  in  large  masses,  and  the  Cone 
is  full  of  diminutive  welis  that  have  been 
dug  in  search  of  them     Among  the  ob- 
jects of  sentimental  interest  the  chief  is 
the  half-buiit  and  now  decayed  chateau 
which  a  cenain  singular  and  melancholy 
German   baron  began    to    build  in  the 


wilderness  and  surrounded  it  with  a 
maze  or  labyrinth  through  which  no 
intruder  could  find  the  wav  unless  by 
chance,  part  of  which  still  remains;  a 
tortuous  thicket  of  thorny  bushes,  and 
near  by  is  the  remains  of  the  log  house 
he  lived  and  died  in  alone.  The  Barn- 
acles family  firmly  believe  the  place 
haunted  and  never  go  to  that  side  of  the 
lake  at  night,  but  thatof  course  is  non- 
sense. Our  people  go  in  daytime  to  find 
some  sort  of  a  scarce  flower  that  he 
planted  here  and  there  and  as  this  is  the 
season  of  its  blossoming  they  sometimes 
bring  home  a  few  specimens  and  set  in 
glasses  on  the  breakfast  table . 

When  we  had  a  house  count  of  Ap, 
there  were  some  disagreeable  people  who 
could  not  be  expected  to  stay  long  any- 
where. One  man  and  his  wife  made  a 
specialty  of  deriding  hotels  and  the  enter- 
tainment and  accommodations  they  of- 
fer. Said  he  had  been  trying  his  powers 
of  endurance  of  all  evils  at  the  Hotel- 
de  Villa-Franca  at  Cabbageadia,  and 
made  much  sport  of  it.  He  did  not  seem 
to  find  fault  with  anything  here  and  yet 
he  made  people  feel  uncomfortable  and 
many  were  glad  when  he  and  his  wife 
went  away  at  the  end  of  two  days.  Three 
or  four  of  the  young  people  besides  went 
away  Saturday  evening,  as  this  place  is 
intolerably  dull  on  Sundays. 

Ah,  but  here  is  worse  sorrow;  The 
house  and  the  guests  are  to  lose  the  Col- 
onel and  the  banker's  wife  and  daughter 
to  morrow  morning.  They  have  been 
the  right  sort  of  guests,  evidently,  for  they 
seemed  always  m  the  lead  for  pleasure, 
iitu  they  have  been  reading  the  adver- 
tisements of  other  resorts  very  closely  in 
their  resting  spells  when  the  papers  lie  on 
the  piazzas  and  in  the  reading  room,  and 
they  have  found  a  place  that  seems  to 
suit  their  case  better.  So  to  morrow  they 
go  to  the  Rosedale  house  at  Purple  Lake 
(it  is  in  the  Cashmere  Vale,  and  the 
nightingales  sing  round  it  all  the  day  long 
— so  the  advertisements    say)    but  they 

Eromise  the  company  to  come  back  again 
efore  the  season  ends. 
That  is  early  breakfast  Monday  mom- 
mg  for  the  friends  who  will  go  to  see 
them  off,  and  at  night  comes  off  another 
birthday  suppt^r — this  time  it  is  for  the 
lady  hostess  and  rnust  be  fine.  I  have  a 
13-pound  rich  fruit  cake  made  some  days 
ago  to  be  old  enough  to  cut  to  morrow, 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


io6 


for  fruit  cakes  of  the  richest  sorts  are  not 
good  until  a  week  after  baking. 

SSG—Kich  Fruit  Cake  or  Black  Cake. 


This  is  the  kind  of  cake  or  rather,  one 
of  the  kinds  that  can  be  kept  for  years 
without  detriment  to  the  cake.  Some 
caterers  have  had  it  mentioned  among 
their  specialties  as  "grooms  cake,  3  years 
old" 

Prepare  the  fruit  first : 

254  pounds  raisins — 6  heaped  cups, 

254  pounds  currants — same. 

i}4  pounds  citron  shred  fine — 4  cups. 

2  heai^ing  tablespoons  mixed  ground 
spices — cinnamon,  cloves,  nutmeg  and 
mace. 

I  small  cup  strong  black  xoffee. 

I  Sail  cup  dark  molasses. 

Same  of  brandy. 

A  small  addition  of  almonds,  nuts  or 
cut  figs  can  be  mixed  in  if  wished,  and 
a  spoonful  of  lemon  extract. 

Then  mix  the  cake  batter: 

14  ounces  su^ar — 2  cups. 

14  ounces  butter— same  if  pressed. 

10  eggs. 

18  ounces  flour — 4  large  cups. 

Mix  up  same  as  pound  cake,  the  sugar 
and  butter  together  first,  then  eggs  2  at  a 
time,  then  flour.  After  the  flour,  put  in 
the  2  ounces  spices,  coffee,  molasses, 
brandy  and  lemon  extract.  The  batter 
is  quite  thin,  but  no  matter.  Mix  flour 
in  the  fruit  to  dust  it  well,  then  stir  up 
all  together. 

Take  a  mould  that  holds  at  least  6  qts. 
or  two  moulds  of  4  quarts  each,  line  them 
with  greased  paper,  put  in  the  cake  and 
wrap  other  papers  around  the  outside 
and  tie  on  to  guard  the  cake  against  too 
much  heat  in  bakin;^.  Bake  from  2  to  3 
liours.  The  raisins  ought  to  be  stoned 
or;  ii  there  is  nobody  to  do  that,  cut  them 
in  two,  but  not  mince  them  small,  as  that 
spoils  the  appearance  of  the  cake. 

Cost  of  large  fruit  cake,  about  15  cents 
a  pound. 

Note.  The  above  has  been  proven  a 
valuable  receipt  about  Christmas  and  par- 
tv  times  but  as  it  makes  a  cake  so  nearly 
all  fruit  it  will  bear  a  little  thinning  down 
with  moro  cake  batter  for  most  occasions. 
I  make  twice  the  amount  of  pound-cake 
mixture,  use  a  little  of  it  as  pound  or  jelly 
cake  and  put  the  specified  amount  of 


fruits  in  what  remains  or  mix  them  with- 
out taking  any  out;  it  is  a  rich  cake  siiil, 
only  of  diffierent  degrees ;  and  if  they  are 
temperance  people  and  will  not  buy 
brandy  put  in  another  spoonfiil  of  spices 
and  the  cake  will  be  just  as  good  as  if  the 
brandy  was  put  in  and  baked  out  of  it. 
Cost  as  above  with  prices  as  quoted  at 
this  place,  14  pounds  including  one  coat 
thick  icmg  $1.85. 

Dinner. 


August  3. 

Soup-Consomme,  chatelaine  (6  qts. 
40  cents.) 

Tomatoes  and  cucumbers  (on  table  10 
cents.) 

Flounder  a  ITtalienne  {4  lbs.  gross  and 
sauce  45  cents). 

Potato  croquettes. 

Boiled  ham  and  tongue  (nominal,  left 
for  cold). 

Roast  beef,  (i  rib  3  lbs  39  cents.) 

Braised  brisket  of  veal,  mareschale 
(3  lbs.  36  cents). 

Lamb  cutlets,  a  la  Nelson  (14  orders, 
2  lbs.  and  trimmings,  48  cents). 

Rissole ttes,  a  la  Marseillaise,  (12  orders 
26  cents). 

Baked  tomatoes  15,  onions  in  cream 
10,  rice  4,  beans  4,  cabbage  8,  potatoes 
16,  (57  cents). 

Queen  pudding  with  cream,  (No.  845 ;  3 
qts.  or  4^  lbs.  35  cents). 

Blackberry  pie  (2  pies  large,  20  cents). 

Bisque  of  pineapple  icecream(No.  206; 
2  qts i  and  freezing  65  cents.) 

Cakes  assorted  (15  cents). 

Nats,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers,  condi- 
ments,(37  cents). 

Milk,  buttermilk,  cream,  (46  cents) . 

Butter,  bread,  coffee,  tea,  sugar,  38 
cents. 

Total  $5,57,  37  persons;  15  cents  a 
plate. 

837— Consommo    Chatelaine 


Like  consomme  royal  with  minced 
shalots  and  mushrooms  in   the  custards. 

Make  and  clarify  the  consomme  as  at 
No.  139;  there  ought  to  be  a  fowl  roasted 
brown  and  then  boiled  in  it,  otherwise 
add  extract  of  meat  for  richness  and 
color. 

Mince  an    equal    quantity  of  butto 


t07 


COOKING    JFOR  PROFIT. 


mushrooms  and  young  onions,  about  ^ 
cup  of  each ;  break  3  eggs  in  a  pan,  add 
a  spoonful  of  milk  or  both  and  the 
minced  ingredients,  season,  stir  up,  put 
in  a  buttered  small  pan  or  mould  and 
cook  by  steaming.  When  the  custard 
is  done  and  cold  cut  out  shapes  ether 
like  corks  or  plain  squares,  rut  half  a 
dozen  in  each  plate  when  the  consomme 
is  served. 


838— Flounder  a'la  Italienne. 

The  flounder  is  a  flat  fish  about  same 
size  as  the  sole,  common  and  quite  cheap 
in  the  seap>orts. 

Cut  in  pieces  across  the  fish  and  re- 
move the  dark  skin ;  cook  it  the  same  as 
at  No.  184.  Serve  with  brown  Italian 
sauce  and  a  potato  croquette  in  the 
same  plate. 

839— Potato    Croquettes. 


Take  4  or  5  potatoes  out  of  the  dinner 
steamer  and  mash  them  with  salt,  the 
yolk  of  an  egg,  or  two,  and  pinch  of 
ground  mace  or  nutmeg  and  if  quite  dry 
add  a  httle  butter.  Roll  on  the  flour 
board,  cut  ofl"  balls  larger  than  walnuts, 
roll  round,  bread  them  in  eg?  and 
cracker  meal  and  fry  to  a  handsome 
light  brown  same  as  dauphine.  They 
can  be  made  in  other  shapes  but  the 
round  is  the  quickest. 


840— Braised    Brisket  of 
Marechale. 


Veal 


To  braise  or  braze  meat  is  to  cook  in 
a  brazier  or  covered  pot  with  live  coals 
on  top.  It  can  be  done  nearly  as  well  in 
deep  baking  pan  in  the  oven  if  covered 
with  buttered  paper—which  will^  stand  a 
good  deal  of  heat  without  burning  and 
keeps  the  steam  in  the  meat.  Saw  the 
breast  of  veal  in  strips  across  the  ribs, 
put  them  in  the  pan  with  some  soup 
stock,  vegetables  and  garden  herbs  and 
salt  and  cook  with  the  paper  cover  on  in 
the  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Have 
it  so  that  the  liquor  is  dried  down  to 
glaze  that  sticks  to  the  pan  and  to  the 
meat.    Tak^the  meat  out,  pour  off  the 


fat  and  boil  up  some  Spanish  sauce  in 
the  pan,  if  you  have  it,  if  not  use  water; 
strain  and  use  as  gravy  to  the  meat  and 
serve  browned  potatoes  in  the  same  plate. 


841— Lamb  Cutlets,  a  la  Nelson. 


flavored 
with  bread 


Cutlets  spread  with  a  highly 
mince  in  stifi" sauce,  dredged  wit 
crumbs  and  baked    brown. 

Prepare  the  cutlets  (chops)  as  for 
broiling,  lay  in  a  pan  and  bake  half- 
done  so  that  thev  will  retain  their  shape 
afterwards. 

Mince  an  ounce  each  of  ham,  mush- 
rooms, young  onions,  little  barsiey  and 
crush  a  clove  of  garlic  ana  mince  it. 
with  the  rest.  Take  a  spoonful  each^ 
of  flour  and  butter,  stir  them  over  the- 
fire  and  add  water  to  make  a  sauce 
thick  as  paste;  stir  the  minced  ingre- 
dients in.  Spread  a  teaspoonful  oni 
each  cutlet,  round  it  over  and  cover 
with  bread  crumbs  or  cracker  meal  and 
brown  them  in  th-j  oven.  Serve  a  spoon- 
ful of  Allemande  sauce  in  the  disnand 
the  cutlet  in  it  and  garnish  with  a  strip 
of  toast. 


842— Sause  Allemande. 


Take  chicken  or  veal  broth  boiled 
down  rich  and  strained  through  a  nap- 
kin and  pour  it  to  a  roux  of  butter  and 
flour  made  hot  over  the  fire  as  if  mak- 
ing butter  sauce. 

When  thin  enough  let  it  slowly  boil 
at  the  side  and  skim  off  the  butter  that 
rises  while  the  sauce  is  becoming  thick- 
er by  reduction.  Shortly  before  it  is 
wanted  mix  the  yolk  of  an  egg  with  it 
carefully,  without  curdling  the  yolk  with 
too  much  heat,  and  add  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon.  Allemande  sauce  is  Ger- 
man sauce 


843— Rissolettes  a  la  Marseillaise. 


Picked  fish  and  cheese  pounded  to- 
gether, rolled  up  in  pie  paste  and  fried . 

Take  cold  wnitefisn  or  any  other  that 
is  free  from  bones,  and  half  as  much 
cheese,  mince,  and  then  pound  them  to-- 
gether  to  a  sort  of  paste  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper. 

Roll  out  a  piece  of  good  Die  paste  very 


SAN  TT^ANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


io3 


thin,  cut  out  with  a  biscuiv  cutter,  make 
little  turnovers  or  other  shapes  such  as 
long  rolls  with  a  spoonful  of  the  fish  mix- 
ture inside  and  the  edges  of  the  paste 
wetted  with  egg  to  make  them  adhere. 
Drop  the  rissolettes  into  the  same  kettle 
of  hot  lard  the  potato  croquettes  are  to 
be  fried  in.  Take  out  while  still  light- 
colored  and  place  on  paper  in  a  hot  pan 
to  absorb  every  particle  of  grease.  Serve 
one  or  two  to  each  dish  with  a  green  bor- 
der of  fried  parsley  or  a  green  puree,  or 
chopped  yolk  of  egg  for  ornament.  Alar- 
seilles  is  a  seaport  and  great  place  for  fish 
dinners— hence  the  names. 


Use  a  large  pan  that  the  pudding  m  ay 
be  shallow  and  cut  out  the  better  for  it. 


844— Baked  Tomatoes. 


If  not  intelligently  managed,  baked  to- 
matoes are  sure  to  be  a  failure  through 
all  dissolving  into  liquid.  Without  peel- 
ing, cut  off  a  slice  of  the  top  and  scoop 
out  the  inside  with  a  teaspoon  into  a 
strainer  that  will  let  the  surplus  juice 
flow  away.  Chop  the  pulp,  add  bread 
crumbs  on  top  and  bake  in  a  buttered 
pan. 


845— Queen  Puddirg. 

This  is  known  by  half  a  dozen  diflerent 
names — it  looks  well  and  is  a  favorite 
kind.    It  is  a  bread  custard  with  jelly 
spread  over  the   top  after  baking  •  and . 
meringue  (frosting)  upon  that  like  alemon  \ 
pie, 

I  pressed-m  quart  bread  crumbs — 4 
cups. 

4  cups  milk. 

j^  cup  butter,  melted. 

5I  cup  sugar. 

4  yolks  eggs. 

I  cup  fruit  jelly. 

4  whites  and  J4  cup  sugar  for  the  frost- 
ing. 

Have  the  bread  very  finely  minced, 
mix  the  first  five  ingredients  together  and 
bake  until  the  bread  custard  thus  made 
is  set  in  the  middle.  Spread  the  jelly 
over  the  top_  and  set  in  the  oven  again. 
Whip  the  whites  firm  enough  to  bear  up 
an  egg,  add  the  sugar,  spread  it  on  top  of 
the  hot  jelly  and  finish  baking  with  the 
oven  door  partly  open  as  too  much  heat 
spoils  the  meringue .  Costs  about  35 
<»nts,but  b  enough  for  thirty  people. 


Dinner. 

August  4. 

Soup — Potage  a  la  Reine  (5   qts    40 
cents.) 

Fillets  of  trout,  a  la  Chambord  (4  lbs, 
with  forcemeat  etc.  70  cents.) 

Potatoes,  Monaco. 

Bdled  ham  with  spinach  (3  orders  ham, 
9  spinach  13   cents.) 

lloast  beef  (i  rib,   2  lbs  net  28  c.nts.) 

Mutton  a  la  Bretonne  (No  849  shoulder 
2  lbs  and  beans  30  cents.) 
Chicken  pie  (5  cnickens  $1.00,  with  crust 
etc,  $1.20.) 

Green  peas  15,  mashed  turnips  5  rice  5, 
potatoes  15  (40  cents.) 

Birdsnest  pudding  with  cream  (No  851; 
about  28  cents.) 

Lemon  pie  (No  852 ;  3  medium  size  30 
cents. 

Vanilla  ice  cream  (2   qts    pure,   and 
freezing  65  cents.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers,  pickles, 
(35  cents.) 

Cake  assorted  kinds  d  lb   10  cents.) 

Milk,  buttermilk,  cream  (45  cents.) 

Butter,   bread,  coffee,  tea,    sugar  (43 
cents.) 

Total    $5.97;   35  persons;  17  cents  a 
plate. 

846— Potage  a  la  Reine. 


Reine  is  the  French  word  for  queen, 
this  would  therefore  be  in  English 
"Queen's  Soup.'' 

It  is  a  puree  soup  like  the  potato  cream 
and  puree  of  beans,  but  thickened,  in- 
stead, with  the  paste  or  piuree  of  pounded 
chicken  and  rice. 

Take : 

3  quarts  chicken  broth. 

4  solid  cups  chicken  meat. 
I  heaped  cup  boiled  rice. 

I  quart  cream  or  good  milk. 

Procure  4  cupfuls  of  clear  chicken  meat 
tender  enough  to  mash  to  a  paste,  either 
from  two  or  three  young  chickens  roasted, 
or  I  large  fowl  boiled.  Mince  it  fine, 
pound  It  smooth,  add  the  rice  while 
pounding,  pour  in  some  of  the  broth  to, 
moisten  it,  then  rub  it  through  a  perfor- 


lOQ 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


ated  tin  gravy  strainer  or  a  sieve. 

The  chicken  (or  veal)  broth  should  have 
a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  i  stalk  of  cel- 
ery, a  small  piece  of  onion  and  piece  of 
broken  nutmeg  boiled  in  it,  and  if  ob- 
tainable a  sprig  of  green  thyme,  and  af- 
ter that  be  strained.  Mix  it  boiling  hot 
with  the  puree  of  chicken  and  rice ;  set 
on  bricks  or  at  the  back  of  the  stove  to 
keep  hot  without  boiling,  and  boil  the 
cream  separately  and  pour  it  ir>  at  last. 
Serve  with  soufiiee  crouton.  No.  736. 

Another  way  is  to  make  a  cream  of 
rice  with  chicken  meat  in  it  cut  small, 
and  no  croutons. 


847— Fillets  of  Redfnh  a  la  Chambord 
Individua!. 

Thin  fillets  spread  with  a  paste  or  force- 
meat containing  lobster,  rolled  up  and 
baked   and  served  with  a   lobster  sauce . 

Chambon  is  the  name  of  a  part  of 
France  on  the  sea  coast  and  also  a  count's 
title.  The  redfish  is  from  the  Florida 
coast  where  it  is  also  called  red  grouper . 

Slice  the  fish  lengthwise  into  fillets  thin 
and  broad  like  fillets  of  sole  and  as  small 
as  possible,  pound  a  quarter  can  of  lob- 
ster to  a  paste,  add  as  much  panada 
(soaked  and  squeezed  bread)  season  it, 
add  a  raw  yolk.  Spread  the  fillets  with 
the  mixture  thinly,  roll  them  np,  and  lay 
in  a  pan  and  bake  with  butter  and  water 
just  enough  to  keep  them  moist,  and 
baste  twice.  They  will  cook  in  about  30 
minutes . 

Pound  the  reddest  pieces  of  lobster 
meat  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve,  mix  it 
with  a  little  good  butter  sauce ;  slice  in  3 
or  4  mushrooms  and  as  many  shrimps, 
if  at  hand,  or  a  tew  pieces  of  lobster  cut 
in  dire  and  season  with  pepper  and  lemon 
juice.  Serve  a  fillet  to  each  plate  with 
sauce  and  some  special  form  of  potato 
in  the  same. 


848— Potatoes  a  la  Monac^f. 

Cut  cores  out  of  raw  potatoes  with  an 
apple  corer  or  column  cutter,  and  slice 
them  into  thick  lozenge  shapes  like  gun- 
wads.  Boil  first,  then  fry  in  a  kettle  of 
lard.  Before  serving,  shake  them  about 
in  a  pan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  dredge 
with  salt  and  fine  minced  parsley.  Serve 
with  fish .    Monaco  is  the  name  of  a  ger- 


man  resort,  a  sort  of  Saratoga. 
849— Mutton  a  la  Bretonne. 

Mutton  and  beans.  The  French 
equivalent  for  our  pork  and  beans.  The 
frequency  of  the  sign  in  the  windows  of 
French  restaurants  seems  to  indicate  that 
it  is  in  demand  at  least  for  a  lunch  dish. 

Take  a  shoulder  of  mutton  and  remove 
the  bone  by  cutting  close,  laying  out  the 
meat  like  a  thick  steak.  To  season  it 
mince  one  onion  and  crush  a  clove  of 
garlic  with  the  side  of  your  knife  and 
mix  it  in  and  stew  over  the  meat,  dredge 
thyme  or  sage,  salt  and  pepper,  roll  up 
and  tie  and  then  braise  the  meat  in 
a  covered  pan  with  broth  or  water  at  first, 
allowing  it  to  dry  down  and  brown  like  a 
roast  at  last. 

Boil  two  cups  of  white  beans  in  the 
usual  way  while  the  mutton  is  braising. 
Take  the  mutton  out  of  the  saucejDan 
and  cook  a  little  minced  ham  and  onion 
in  the  gravy  that  remains,  then  put  in  the 
cookedT  beans  and  shake  up. 

Serve  beans  in  the  dish  with  a  cut  of 
the  roll  of  mutton  on  top. 


850— Chicken   Pie,   American    Style. 

When  you  make  chicken  pie  cut  down 
the  quantities  of  all  other  meats  and 
cut  down  the  vegetables  and  leave  out 
the  third  entree  altogether  that  there  may 
be  afforded  enough  of  this  and  without 
haying  to  serve  the  roughest  pieces  of 
chicken  .  It  is  one  of  the  favorite  dishes 
alike  in  the  largest  hotels  and  the  small- 
est and  it  is  poor  policy  to  make  it  a  dis- 
appointment in  either  place.  Let  there 
be  a  surplus  of  the  liquor  the  chicken  is 
stfjwed  in  left  over  to  pour  into  the  pie  as 
it  dries  down  while  dinner  is  going  on, 
for  the  cry  is  "  still  they  come*' — no,  not 
that  but  "plenty  of  gravy  and  more  of 
the  crusl." 

,  A  large  chicken  can  be  cut  or  chopped 
into  18  pieces  for  stew  or  pie  but  such 
pieces  are  not  able  to  make  you  any  rep- 
utation. If  the  back  bones  and  necks 
are  left  out  to  be  used  in  soup  or  other 
ways  it  may  take  another  chicken  to  make 
the  Die  large  enough  but  after  all  you  will 
not  have  to  work  so  hard  to  find  a  piece 

I  of  the  breast  for  the  few  fastidious  people 

I  who  can't  eat  anything  else. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


no 


Cut  up  five  chickens  making  6  choice 
cuts  of  each  without  counting  the  back 
or  neck ;  allow  about  ^  pound  salt  pork 
cut  in  stiips,  a  heaped  'tablespoon 
minced  onion,  same  of  salt,  a  teaspoon  of 
white  pepper,  some  chopped  parsley, 
flour  to  thicken  the  liquor  and  about  3 
pounds  short  pie  crust. 

Boil  the  chickens  in  water  enough  to 
cover,  time  according  to  age;  voung 
chicken's  less  than  J^  hour;  old  fowls  3 
hours;  with  the  seasoning  of  salt,  pork 
and  onions.  Thicken  the  liquor,  add 
parsley,  dip  the  chicken  into  a  baking  pan 
dredge  over  with  pepper  and  flour  and 
cover  with  a  thin  pie  crust.  Bake  ^ 
hour.    Cut  in  squares. 

'I'here  should  not  be  gravy  enough  in 
the  pan  to  drown  the  crust  before  it  can 
bake— the  gravy  can  be  poured  in  after- 
wards. Baking  powder  crust  can  be  made 
good  with  care  but  seldom  is,  for  it  rises 
too  thick  and  absorbs  all  the  sauce.  A 
short  paste  is  better. 


851— Birds  Nest  Pudding. 

An  egg  batter  pudding  with  apples. 
Probably  gets  its  name  from  its  appear- 
ance when  baked  in  round  pan. 

1  large  cup  flour— 5  ounces. 
3  cups  milk — I  ^  pints. 

2  heaped  tablespoons  sugar. 
Butter  size  of  an  egg. 

3  eggs.    Little  salt. 

Apples  enough  for  a  4  quart  pan. 

Sugar,  butter  and  cmnamon  or  nut- 
meg for  the  apples. 

Pare  and  core  the  apples— enough  to 
cover  the  pan  bottom ;  fill  core  holes  with 
sugar  and  some  butter,  water  to  barely 
wet  the  pan,  cover  with  greased  paper 
and  bake  until  done  and  the  syrup  dned 
down.  Mix  the  batter  smoothly,  as  if  for 
batter  cakes,  pour  it  over  the  apples  and 
bake  about  }4  hour  more .  Pure  cream 
sweetened  is  a  good  sauce,  any  other 
will  answer  if  cream  is  not  to  be  hid. 

852— Lemon  Pie  Meringued. 

Rule :  One  lemon  and  two  eggs  to  each 
pie. 

1  cup  sugar. 

2  cups  water  or  milk. 
2  lemons  or  3  if  small. 


%  cup  flour. 

6  yolks  of  eggs . 

Put  the  su^ar  in  a  saucepan  and  grate 
lemon  rinds  into  it,  squeeze  the  juice, 
add  the  pint  of  water  and  boil.  Mix  the 
2  ounces  flour  with  water  and  thicken  the 
boiling  syrup .  1  ake  it  ofi"  and  pour  it 
gradually  to  the  beaten  yolks.  Fill 
three  pies  and  bake. 

Whip  the  6  whites,  add  6  tablespoons 
sugar,  spread  over  the  pies  while  they  are 
still  hot  in  the  oven  and  bake  light -col- 
ored, A  richer  appearance  may  be  given 
by  dredging  granulated  sugar  over  the 
frosting  before  baking ;  it  makes  a  crust . 
Too  much  baking  will  spoil  the  frosting, 
causing  it  to  fall ;  also,  be  caretul  to  get 
about  a  tablespoon  of  sugar  to  each 
white  of  an  egg. 


853— 6a-antin3  en  Bellev-e 


A  galantine  (not  gelatine  as  it  often 
mistakenly  appears  in  printed  bills)  is  a 
boned  fowl  or  bird  of  any  sort ;  it  is  en 
bellevue  when  it  is  encased  in  jelly  and 
ornamented.  Galantines  are  maae  the 
same  of  either  chickens  or  turkeys,  ac- 
cording to  the  following  directions. 

Singe  and  pick  over  a  young  turkey  or 
pullet,  and  without  otherwise  opening  it, 
cut  the  skin  along  the  whole  length  of  the 
back  and  with  the  point  of  a  sharp  knife 
go  on  cuttini<  the  meat  from  the  bone  on 
both  sides  until  the  hip  joints  and  wings 
are  reached.  Chop  through  these  with 
the  hea\-y  end  of  a  carving  knife  and  con- 
tinue cutting  close  to  the  breast  bone  un- 
til the  frame  is  entirely  removed  without 
the  skin  being  cut  through. 

After  that,  bone  the  legs  and  wings 
half  way  and  chop  off"  the  rest.  The 
meat  of  the  legs  and  wings  is  to  be 
tucked  into  the  body,  which,  when  done 
up,  will  be  a  smooth  cushion  shape . 

Then  wash  the  turkey  in  cold  water  and 
dry  it  on  a  cloth.  Spread  it  out  with  the 
skin  side  down  on  the  table  and  cover 
with  the  forcemeat ;  draw  the  two  sides 
together,  sew  with  twine,  put  it  into  a 
pudding  cloth  previously  buttered  and  tie 
and  pin  it  securely.  Boil  the  turkey  in 
salted  broth  or  water  containing  the 
bones  and  any  other  trimmings  left  from 
the  forcemeat  besides,  for  from  two  to 
three  hours,  according  to  size. 

When  the  boned  and  stufled  turkey  or 
chicKen  has  been  sufliciently  boiled,  press 


lit 


COOKING    JFOR  PROFIT. 


It,  still  in  the  cloth,  into  a  pan  or  mold, 
and  there  let  it  remain  with  a  weight  on 
top  until  cold.  Into  whatever  shape  it 
may  be,  there  should  be  another  vessel  a 
size  larger  precisely  like  it,  and  the  boned 
turkey  or  chicken,  being  taken  out  of  the 
first  mold,  and  the  cloth  taken  off  and  the 
surface  wiped  clean  with  a  napkin  dipped 
in  hot  water,  is  then  to  be  placed  in  the 
larger  one;  the  space  is  then  filled  up 
with  aspic  jelly,  poured  in  nearly  cold, 
and  when  set,  the  mold  being  dipped  a 
few  moments  in  warm  water,  the  galan- 
tine can  be  tu.ned  out  onto  its  dish  and 
decorated. 

The  way  to  get  a  coating  of  jelly  all 
over  the  galantine  is  to  stamp  out  star 
shapes  from  thick  slices  of  white  turnip 
or  other  material  and  lay  th«m  on  the 
bottom  of  the  larger  mould.  They  hold 
up  the  galantine  from  the  bottom  for  the 
jelly  to  run  under,  and  show  up  as  orna- 
ments. 

Decorate  with  blocks  of  colored  jelly 
set  around  and  upon  it,  and  with  orna- 
mental silver  skewers,  with  lemons  cut 
like  baskets,  and  with  flowers. 

Two  fair-sized  turkeys,  prepared  as 
above,  either  stuffed  with  forcemeat  or 
with  the  meat  of  another  turkey  or  chick- 
en, 7,'ill  slice  into  fifty  plates. 


854— Stuff j..g for  Gilantines. 

Where  boned  turkey  and  chicken  is 
served  so  frequently  fo^  lunch  that  it  is 
no  rarity,  the  easiest  ana  quickest  way  of 
stufifin;^  may  perhaps  be  as  good  as  the 
best;  a  boned  tutkey  then  becomes  a 
fraud,  if  considered  as  turkey  while  it 
may  be  very  good  if  regarded  as  sausage, 
for  tnc  most  available  material  is  a  com- 
mon sausage  meat  to  fill  up  the  space 
formerly  occupied  by  the  frame  of  the 
fowl.  Next  to  that  and  perhaps  the  oft- 
enesc  used  is  a  mixture  of  selected  lean 
veal  and  fat  salt  pork  minced  into  a  sort 
of  veal  sausage,  well  seasoned  and 
served  up  in  the  turkey.  That  can  be 
made  by  any  person  without  special  di- 
recLions. 

Another  and  better  way  is  to  bone  two 
turkeys  or  a  turkey  and  chicken  and  put 
the  two  in  one,  being  careful  to  have 
the  inside  chicken  or  small  turkey  quice 
young  and  tender.  Sea. on  well  without 
cutting  or  mincing,  lay  one  on  the  other. 


place  a  few  strips  of  fat  pork  about  as 
thick  as  a  pencil,  lengthwise,  and  half 
a  dozen  hard-boiled  yolks,  gather  up  and 
sew  in  shapje.  When  cooked,  pressed 
and  sliced  this  will  be  all  turkey  or  chick- 
en and  better  liked  than  the  sausage  busi- 
ness. 

For  something  more  elaborate  for  a 
little  party  supper  or  lunch  the  following 
may  be  relied  upon  to  make  a  nice  dish, 
worth  ornamenting. 

855— Forcemeat    far    Boned   Turkey 
and  Ccicken 


The  quantity  of  this  receipt  is  sufficient 
for  one  medium-sized  turkev  that  will 
slice  into  twenty-five  individual  dishes. 
For  a  large  chicken  the  amounts  may  ba 
one-half.  This  makes  about  four  pounds 
of  choice  meat,  in  addition  to  the  turkey. 

2  hens,  boiled  tender. 

6  ounces  fat  salt  pork — a  cup. 

6  ounces  butter — a  cup. 

6  ounces  white  bread  crumbs — 2  cups. 

2  raw  eggs. 

8  hard  boi'ed  eggs. 

I  cup  broth  or  water. 

I  lemon. 

Nutmeg  or  thyme. 

Salt  and  pepper. 

Take  the  dark  meat  of  the  fowls,  cut  it 
in  very  small  dice  and  keep  it  separate . 
Take  off  the  white  meat,  chop  fine  and 
then  pound  to  .a  soft  paste.  Throw  in 
the  fat  pork  minced,  the  seasonings  and 
the  bread  crumbs  and  mix  together,  and 
soften  the  butter  and  stir  in.  Mix  the 
two  raw  eggs  with  the  cup  of  broth,  add 
juice  of  lemon,  and  with  this  mixture 
moisten  the  forcemeat.  It  is  now  ready 
for  use. 

Strew  over  the  turkey  about  half  the  dark 
meat  mince,  and  over  that  spread  half  the 
white  forcemeat.  Cut  the  yolks  of  the 
hard  boiled  eggs  in  quarters  and  scatter 
some  over  the  layer  of  forcemeat,  then 
the  rest  of  the  minced  dark  meat,  the  re- 
maining forcemeat  and  eg^  yolks.  Do 
up  the  boned  turkey  thus  filled  as  above 
directed. 

When  sliced  cold  the  above  shows  little 
dark  squares  set  in  a  white  meat,  all 
spotted  through  with  the  yellow  egg 
yolks. 

Cost  of  material ;  2  fowls  50,  pork  5 


SAN  JiRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


112 


butter  8,  eggs  13,  bread,  lemon  and  sea- 
sonings 4;  80  cents. 

856— Cost  of  Ga  antine  of  Turkey  cr 
Chicken. 

Twenty  cents  a  pound  for  material  is 
the  lowest  that  boned  turkey  and  chick- 
en can  be  expected  to  cost,  and  if  prices 
rule  high  the  cost  may  be  sometimes 
twice  that  sum.  A  14  pound  turkey 
(plucked  but  not  drawn)  may  be  dressed 
boned  and  then  done  up  with  6  pounds 
of  raw  veal  forcemeat  or  sausage  meat 
inside  and  after  cooking  and  pressing  it 
will  scarcely  weigh  10  pounds  altogether 
—a  loss  ot  over  half;  so  that  if  the  tur- 
key be  bought  at  125^  the  galantine  will 
cost  25  cents  a  pound  at  the  lowest;  and 
we  find  that  our  chicken  galantine  con- 
taining one-half  the  amount  of  force- 
meat, (No.  855)  and  a  1%  pound  fowl 
bought  at  10  cents  a  pound,  making  a 
total  of  75  cents,  weighs  but  3^  pounds 
at  last  and  has  therefore  cost  over  21 
cents  a  pound  for  material.  The  great- 
est shrinkage  takes  place  in  the  boiling. 

Such  is  th«  calculation  to  be  made 
when  contracting  for  a  party. 

On  the  other  hand  it  isto  be  considered 
the    galantine  is  subject  to  no  further 
depreciation     In  our  31^  pounds  are  56 
ounces ;  about  2  ounces  make  as  large  a 
slice  us  anybody  wants,  being  about  25 
plates  for  75  cents,  or  3  or  4  cents  a  per-  I 
son.    The  aspic  jelly  makes  a  separate  ' 
calculation ;  it  is  not  essential,  but  to  be  ' 
charged  to  ornamentation  .    It  is,  how- 
ever cheaper  by  the  pound  than  the  meat 
and  at  a  large  party  may  be  converted  to 
profit  by  an  expert  carver. 


857— ohicken  Salad. 


The  same  as  No .  150.  Make  up  the 
form  in  a  round  salad  bowl,  place  a  heart 
lettuce  on  top,  and  quarters  of  eggs  in 
close  order  around  the  base. 


858  -Art  in  cutti  ^g  Eggs. 

Hold  the  hard-boiled  egg  in  a  napkin 
in  your  hollowed  hand  while  you  cut  it 
in  quarters  lengthwise,  and  avoid  break- 
ing the  yolks  and  spoiling  the  eggs  for 


ornamental  purposes.  Eggs  are  turned 
blue  and  made  to  look  as  if  bad  by  too 
long  boiling ;  when  they  are  fairly  hard- 
boiled  put  them  immediately  in  cold  wa^ 
ter  and  there  will  be  no  discoloration. 


859— Art  in  Mincing  Parsley. 

Chop  parsley  very  fine,  inclose  it  in  a 
clean  towel  and  wring  by  twisting  it  until 
all  the  juice  is  expressed.  The  parsley 
is  then  a  green  dust  which  when  scattered 
upon  a  dish  will  not  fall  all  in  one  spot 
but  will  divide  as  easily  as  grains  of  col- 
ored sugar.  For  salad  ornamentation 
dip  round  slices  of  lemon  in  the  green 
parsley  dust  and  border  the  dish. 


Birthday  Party  Supper. 


MENU. 

Galantine  of  Chicken  en  Bellevue. 

Pain  de  Foies-gras. 

Toasted  Rusks.  Sandwiches. 

Chicken  Salad. 

Ornamented  Fruit  Cake. 

Charlotte  Russe.  Orange  Cake. 

Meringues  a  la  Gelee. 

Frozen  Bisque  of  Preserved  Ginger. 

Lemonade.  Coffee. 


There  were  but  21  or  22  persons  to  be 
provided  for  so  the  difficulty  in  such  a 
case  is  to  provide  a  small  enough  quan- 
tity of  each  dish  and  yet  make  a  table 
that  is  pleasing  to  look  at,  for  they  that 
come  to  the  supper  are  not  really  hungry 
and  only  care  to  try  whatever  is  new ;  at 
the  same  time  you  do  not  like  to  ask 
them  to  a  Barmecide's  feast  of  empty 
plates  and  nothing  else.  There  is  noth- 
mg  for  it  but  to  utilize  most  of  the  sur- 
plus, such  as  cakes,  for  the  next  dinner 
table,  make  as  little  as  possible  of  liver 
pate  and  chicken  salad  and  submit  to  a 
little  waste  in  other  respects,  knowing 
that  the  Ice  cream  and  meringues  will  be 
sufficiently  well  patronized  and  the  large 
fruit  cake  will  be  wanted  to  be  sent  away 
in  presents  to  absent  friends. 
Cost  of  material: 

Galantine — fowl  75,  jelly  2  qts  55  (1.30) 
Pain  de  foies-gras  45,  jelly  25  (70) 
Rusks     (No.      277)  and    sandwiches, 
(25cents).  * 

Chicken  salad,  (No.  857),  /70  cents). 


113 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


Ornamented  fruit  cake  (No.  836),  (2.00) 

Charlottc-Russe  of  2  qts  Bavarian  and 
cake,  (55  cents). 

Orange  cake,  (No.  S67),  (35  cents). 

Meringues,  25  (No.  460)  wi:h  jelly 
(45  cents). 

Bisque  of  ginger,  ice  cream,  (No. 
207),  (60  cents). 

Lemonade  and  coffee,  (35  cents). 

Total  $7,25;  22  persons,  ^3  cents  a 
plate. 


860    Pan  de  Foies-Gras. 


It  means  loaf  or  cake  of  poultry  livers, 
and  is  of  course,  a  high-flavored  dish  of 
which  a  small  quantity  sufnces,  to  be  eat- 
en with  thin  sliced  bread  as  potted  tongue 
or  ham  would  be.  Pain  is  the  French 
word  for  bread  or  loaf  and  seems  to  be 
used  in  the  same  sense  as  Nve  use  the 
word  cheese  in  head-cheese,  liver-cheese 
and  the  like.  In  other  words  this  is  a 
form  of  liver  paste,  or  pate-de-foie-gras, 
turned  out  of  its  mould  and  incased  in 
jelly  by  the  same  method  as  for  boned 
chicken.  Take  the  ingredients  in  two 
parts  and  it  does  not  seem  so  formidable. 

y^  pound  chicken  livers. 

6  ounces  fat  hen  or  salt  pork. 

2  ounces  lean  cooked  ham. 

14  cup  sherry. 

I  bayieaf,  pepper,  little  mixed  ground 
spices,  salt. 


6  ounces  panada  (bread  soaked  and 
squeezed  dry.) 

2  raw  e.^gs. 

4  hard  boiled  yolks. 

Yz  a  corned  tongue  cooked. 

Some  chopped  mushrooms  and  aspic 
jelly. 

Steep  the  livers  in  water  to  whiten  them. 
If  the  poultry  livers  are  short  weight  use 
call's  liver  to  make  the  amount.  Set  all 
the  ingredients  of  the  first  part  to  sim- 
mer in  a  saucepan  with  a  lid  on  the  back 
part  of  the  range  and  let  remain  till  a  con- 
venient time,  2  or  3  hours.  Then  mash  to 
paste.  The  livers  should  be  nearly  dry  in 
the  saucepan  but  not  fried  or  browned. 
Mix  the  raw  egc^s  with  the  panada  and 
these  with  the  pounded  liver  and  press 
through  a  seive.  Cut  up  the  tongue, 
yolks  and  few  mushrooms  and  mix  them 
in  the  liver  paste. 

lake  a  pan  or  mould  that  holds  over 


3  pints  and  cover  the  bottom  with  very 
thin  slices  of  fat  salt  pork,  press  in  the 
liver  paste,  put  on  top  a  bay  leaf  and 
slice  or  two  of  pork  and  a  buttered  pa- 
per over  that .  Set  the  mould  in  a  pan 
of  water  in  the  oven  and  bake  about 
an  hour.  Turn  it  out  of  the  pan  or 
mould  when  cold,  remove  the  fat  and 
it  is  ready  for  use,  but  if  to  be  set  on 
the  table  whole,  proceed  as  for  a  galan- 
tine of  chicken  and  encase  it  in  aspic 
jelly. 

Cost  of  material  [about  45  cents  for 
2^  pounds  or  about  the  same  as  boned 
chicken. 

861— Charlotte  Ku:se—Tr.ree    Ways. 

It  is  an  outside  casing  of  cake  filled 
with  a  thick  cream,  which  ought  to  be 
real  craam  thick  enough  to  whip  to  froth ; 
if  such  cannot  be  had,  a  thin  cream  can 
be  made  firm  by  adding  gelatine  to  it ; 
and  if  no  cream  at  all  then  make  the 
same  thing  of  milk  and  whip  it  up  light 
as  explained  at  No.  865. 

There  are  many  ways  of  putting  up  a 
charlotu . 

1.  Procure  3  or  4  dozon  lady  fingexs 
(No.  4)  and  a  tin  shape,  which  is  nothing 
more  than  a  hoop  of  tin  with  straight-up 
sides^  like  a  three  pint  milk  cup  would 
be  without  a  bottom.  It  may  be  either 
round  or  oval  according  to  the  dish  to  be 
used  to  set  the  charlotte  on  the  table. 
Cut  ihe  edges  of  the  lady-fingers  straight, 
wet  them  with  white  of  egg  and  line  the 
shape  with  them  set  upright  and  the 
shape  being  on  the  dish.  Whip  the 
cream  to  firm  froth,  sweetening  and  fla- 
voring at  the  same  time ;  fill  up  the  shape 
with  iL  and  let  it  remain  in  a  cold  place 
till  wanted,  then  carefully  lift  off  the  tin 
shape  and  the  cream  will  keep  the  form 
together  if  it  was  double  cream  at  the  start 
— ttiat  is  cream  that  has  stood  on  the 
milk  two  days  before  skimming. 

If  not  sure  of  the  cream  being  firm 
enough,  then  add  gelatine  according  to 
directions  for  Bavarian  cream. 

There  is  no  covering  of  cake  in  this, 
but  the  surface  of  the  cream  may  be  or- 
namented with  some  of  the  same  cream 
in  a  cornet  or  ornamenting  tube  the 
same  as  if  it  were  icing. 

2.  When  a  shorter  way  must  be 
adopted  bake  a  good  sponge  cake  in  a 
round  mould.    No.  281  is  as  good  as  any 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


124 


with  a  liberal  allowance  of  powder.  Then 
cut  out  the  inside  to  use  as  cake  and  take 
the  shell  or  crust  to  fill  with  whipped 
cream.  If  the  cake  is  evenly  baked  of 
light  color  this  way  does  very  \vell;  and 
where  the  charlotte  is  to  be  sliced  and 
served  individually,  as  in  most  hotels, 
the  long  and  narrow  moulds  such  as 
loaves  of  bread  are  baked  in  may  be 
found  most  suitable,  as  the  charlotte  can 
then  be  cut  across. 

3.  Another  way  to  be  adopted  when 
the  charlotte-russe  is  to  be  set  on  the  ta- 
ble whole,  as  for  a  party  supper,  is  to 
take  a  deep,  plain  mould  or  a  tin  pan, 
cover  the  bottom  with  the  thinnest  sliced 
sponge  cake  or  lady-fingers  and  line  the 
sides  with  the  same,  fill  with  cream  stif- 
fened with  gelatine,  keep  cold  and  when 
set,  turn  it  out  of  the  mould  bringing  the 
bottom  on  top  and  ornament  that  either 
with  whipped  cream  piled  up  and  spotted 
with  strawberries  or  else  with  only  a  coat 
of  icing  and  a  border.  Cream  stiffened 
with  gelatine  is  called  Bavarian  cream — 
see  receipts  below. 


862— Individual  Charlotte-Russe, 
Ways. 


Six 


1.  It  is  best  to  make  individual  char- 
lottes where  the  time  allows,  for  hotel  din- 
ners or  parties.  In  some  places  paper 
cases  can  be  bought  and  the  charlottes 
made  and  served  in  them.  Make  the 
same  mixture  as  for  sponge  roll,  very 
thin,  and  cut  in  bands  and  pieces  that 
will  fit  inside;  then  fill  with  whipped 
cream.  Some  of  the  largest  hotels  serve 
them  in  these  paper  cases  always. 

2.  If  you  have  no  ready-made  cases 
you  can  make  some  of  white  unruled  pa- 
per, cutting  the  first  piece  to  fit  inside 
a  small  tumbler,  and  then  using  it  for  a 
pattern  to  cut  the  others  by.  Paste  them 
together,  put  in  a  bottom  and  fringe  the 
edges.  Line  with  lady-fingers  made 
small  and  cut  to  fit;  fill  with  whipped 
cream  and  serve  them  in  the  cases. 

3.  bmall  sponge  cakes  can  be  baked  in 
the  deep  muttin  pans  or  gem  pans — they 
are  tumbler-shaped — the  inside  cut  out 
to  be  made  into  pudding,  and  the  shells 
filled  wiih  cream,  and  sent  in  without  a 
paper  case. 

4.  Another  way  and  a  good  one  is  to 
cut  sponge-roll  sheets  into  pieces  that  will 


just  line  the  inside  of  deep  mufl5n  rings  of 
the  sort  that  have  no  bottom.  Fill  them 
with  cream  stiffened  with  gelatine  and 
set  on  ice,  and  when  cold  and  finn  slip 
them  out  of  the  rings,  and  serve  with  a 
fine  strawberr}'  on  top  or  ornament  with 
pink  spots  of  meringue. 

5-6.  A  good  deal  of  variety  can  be 
had  with  this  form  of  charlotte  as,  some- 
times, white  sponge  cake  can  be  made  and 
filled  with  yellow  Roman  cream  (No 
194)  or  with  chocolate  or  coffee  cream, 
ana  another  time  the  ordinary  yellow 
sponge  cake  lining  can  be  filled  with 
white  cream,  oi;  strawberry  cream,  etc. 


863— About  Whipped  Cream. 


Good  thick  cream,  if  cold,  can  be  made 
firm  enough  by  beating  with  a  wire  egg 
whisk  to  fill  charlottes,  or  even  plates 
lined  with  a  thin  sheet  of  cake,  or  to 
spread  over  a  cream  pie  without  the  addi- 
tion of  gelatine  or  anything  else,  and 
once  so  whipped  to  firmness  it  will  not 
go  d9wn  again  as  long  as  it  is  kept  cold — 
provided,  however,  that  there  is  not 
much  sugar  mixed  with  it.  A  half-pint 
cup  of  good  cream  will  increase  in  vol- 
ume, when  beaten  sufficiently,  to  fill 
about  eight  of  the  small  charlotte  cases 
previously  mentioned. 


864— Bavarian  Cream— Best. 


But  whipped  cream  as  stated  in  the 
foregoing  not  being  capable  of  carrying 
much  sugar  or  flavoring,  a  little  gelatine 
has  to  be  added  to  give  it  substance. 
Half  an  ounce  to  a  quart  is  sufficient  un- 
less there  is  to  be  an  addition  of  some 
flavoring  cordial  or  fruit  juice,  when  an 
ounce  to  a  quart  will  be  the  rule,  and 
four  to  six  ounces  of  sugar.  No  boiling 
is  required,  but  set  the  gelatine  in  half  a 
cup  of  milk  or  cream  on  the  shelf  of  the 
range  where  it  will  gradual Iv  get  hot. 
When  it  is  dissolved,  place  the  cream  in 
a  deep  pan  set  in  ice  water  and  pour  in 
the  dissolved  gelatine  while  beating.  The 
cream  can  then  be  put  into  molds,  very 
slightly  oiled,  and  left  to  become  firm,  or 
used  to  fill  cases  lined  with  cake  for 
charlottes. 

Cost :  I  qt  cream  20,  ^  ounce  gelatine 
6,  sugar  3,  flavoring  ^ ;  34  cents.  Makes 
2  qts  when  whipped  light ;  about  18  cents 


fi5 


COOKING    FOR  PROFIT, 


for  each  quart  mould. 


865— Bavarian  Cream— Substitute. 


This  is,  in  effect, blanc-mange  whipped 
up  light  while  cooling,  with  the  aid  of 
white  of  eggs,  so  that  when  perfectly  cold 
it  can  be  sliced  and  shows  the  same 
spongy  texture  as  fine  bread.  It  is  good 
to  fill  charlottes  when  pure  cream  cannot 
be  obtained,  and  good  for  dessert  in 
place  of  ice  cream. 

4  cups  good  rich  milk — a  quart. 

I  small  cup  sugar— 6  ounces. 

I  ounce  gelatine — nearly  a  package  of 
the  shred  kind,  or  2  or  -?  sheets. 

3  whites  of  eggs . 

V anil. a  flavormg. 

Set  the  milk  over  the  fire  with  the 
sugar  and  gelatine  in  it  and  stir  it  until 
the  gelatine  is  all  dissolved.  Better  not 
let  It  quite  boil  because  sometimes  milt  is 
curdled  by  the  gelatine  at  boiling  point ; 
strain  it  into  a  pan  set  in  ice  water,  and 
when  nearly  cold  beat  it  up  light.  Whip 
the  three  whites  quite  firm,  and  stir  in 
and  continue  the  beating  until  the  cream 
has  become  nearly  solid,  then  pour  it 
into  moulds  or  into  the  charlotte-russe 
case,  which  may  have  been  prepared 
previously.  The  flavoring  extract  can 
be  added  while  beating.  A  little  salt 
mixed  in  the  ice  water  makes  it  colder 
and  hastens  the  setting  of  the  cream. 

Cost :  milk  5,  gelatine  i  oz  lo,  sugar  3, 
flavoring  4,  whites  3;  25  cents  for  2 
quarts. 


866— Maraschino  Cream 


For  filling  charlotte-rnsse  or  serving 
instead  of  ice  cream : 

2^  pints  thin  cream. 

I  teacup  maraschino. 

7  ounces  sugar. 

1  package  of  gelatine — i  ^  ounces. 

Put  the  extia  half  pint  of  cream  in  a 
sm.ill  saucepan,  and  the  gelatine  and 
sugar  with  it,  set  over  the  fire  and  beat 
with  the  wire  egg  whisk  till  the  gelatine 
is  all  dissolved — the  quicker  the  better. 
Pour  the  maraschino  into  the  cold  cream, 
then  strain  in  the  C9ntents  of  the  sauce- 
pan, set  the  whole  in  a  pan  of  ice  water, 
and  whip  the  cream  mixture  until  it  be- 
gins to  set,  when  pour  it  into  the  pre- 


pared mould. 

Maraschino  is  a  cordial  that  gives  a 
pleasant  flavor  to  creams  and  jellies.  It 
IS  kept  in  all  first-class  bars.  Comes  in 
flasks  bound  in  basket  work.  Is  made  by 
steeping  the  kernels  of  an  Italian  cherry 
in  spirits  of  wine  and  then  adding  syrup. 

867— Orange  Cake. 

White  cake  layers  with  orange  icing 
(frosting).  Make  the  best  white  cake. 
No.  622,  and  bake  on  jelly-cake  pans. 
Grate  the  rinds  of  2  or  3  oranges  into  2 
large  cups  powdered  sugar.  Take  3 
whites  of  eggs  in  a  bowl,  put  the  flavored 
sugar  in,  and  beat  with  a  wooden  paddle 
until  you  have  a  pale  yellow  icing  firm 
enough  not  to  lun  ofl'the  cake.  Spread 
some  between  the  layers  and  the  rest  /aver 
the  top  and  sides. 


Dinner. 

August  5. 

Soup — consomme  printanier  rojral  (5 
qts,  40  cents.) 

Tomato  salad  (on  table,  15  cents.) 

Fillets  of  sheephead  a  la  Horly  (fish  2 
lbs  24,  batter  frying,  20;  44  cents.) 

Potatoes  Julienne,  corned  tongue  and 
cabbage  (25  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (I  rib,  154  lbs  20  cents.) 

Loin  of  mutton  (154  lbs  18  cents.) 

Roulade  of  veal,  Napolitaine  (shoulder, 
3  lbs  40  cents.) 

Cutlets  ot  minced  chicken  (21  orders, 
equal  to  i  fowl  55,  with  trimmings,  frying 
55  cents. ) 

Poultry  livers  in  potato  croustades  (fil- 
ling charged  previous  meals,  10  crous- 
tades, 15  cents. ) 

Apricots,  a  la  Colbert  (30  orders,  i  can 
25,  rice,  breading  26,  sauce  4;  55  cents.) 

Turnips,  beans,  com,  tomatoes,  pota- 
toes (45  cents.) 

Preserved  tomato  tarts  (8  saucer  size, 
cut  in  three,  2  lbs  tomatoes  20,  crust  7 ;  27 
cents.) 

Lemon  frozen  custard  (3  qts  frozen,  60 
cents.) 

Cakes  (charged  other  meals.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers,  pickles 
(35  cents.) 

Milk,  buttermilk,  cream  (average  i^ 
cents  each  person,  44  cents.) 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


116 


Bread,  butter,  coffee,  tea,  sugar  (40 
cents.) 

Total  $5  78;  35  persons,  16  J^  cents  a 
plate. 

868— Consomme  Printanier  Royal 

It  is  consomme  royal.  No.  139,  with  a 
jardinier  mixture  of  vegetables  in  it — or 
consomme  jardiniere  with  custards  in  it, 
whichever  way  you  may  choose  to  regard 
it.  Make  the  consomme  good  with  roast 
chicken,  plenty  of  beef,  or  meat  extract; 
cut  the  vegetables  as  small  as  peas,  with 
a  jardinier  cutter  if  you  have  one  at  hand, 
otherwise  in  very  small  dice,  and  have 
fresh  green  peas  and  asparagus  points  alio 
if  in  season. 


869— Tcmato  Salad. 


Take  bmall  tomatoes  not  ripe  enough 
to  be  soft,  pare  them  with  a  very  sharp 
knife  without  scalding.  Cut  in  quarters, 
then  in  slices,  put  in  a  bowl  with  oil,  vin- 
egar, pepper,  salt;  same  as  plain  potato 
salad,  shake  up,  serve  with  border  of 
small  lettuce  leaves. 


870— Fillets  cf  Sheephead,  a  la  Horly. 

Strips  of  fish  fried  in  batter,  served  with 
Julienne  potatoes  and  crisp  fried  onions. 
I'he  sheephead  is  one  of  the  best  of  the 
Southern  sea  fishes ;  in  shape  and  quality 
it  is  very  much  like  the  black  bass,  and  is 
generally  reserved  for  boiling.  It  is  so 
named  for  its  projecting  front  teeth.  To 
cook  it  a  la  Horly,  cut  it  in  strips  size  of 
a  finger,  salt  well,  pepper  a  little.  Make 
a  good  frying  batter  with  2  eggs  to  a  quart 
offlour,  little  melted  butter  or  oil,  and 
milk  enough  to  make  like  thin  batter-cake 
mixture.  Dip  the  pieces  of  fish,  drop  in 
hot  lard,  fry  slow  enough  to  let  get  well 
done,  but  of  light  color. 

Slice  2  or  3  onions  in  rings,  flour  them 
and  fry  yellow  and  dry,  also  fry  a  few 
handfuls  of  Julienne  potatoes.  Serve  a 
little  of  each  at  the  side  of  the  fillet  in 
the  same  dish. 

There  was  a  duke  de  Horly,  prominent 
in  the  wars  of  the  last  century. 

871— Ro  lade  of  Veal,  a  I?  Napolitaine. 

Napolitaine  is  but  another  w^  of  say- 


ing Italian  style;  it  means  with  macaroni 
when  it  is  not  with  Neapolitan  or  horse- 
radish sauce.  Roll  up  a  shoulder  of  veal 
after  taking  out  the  bone,  and  braise  or 
roast  it  covered  with  buttered  jDaper. 
Cook  a  dozen  sticks  of  macaroni,  cut 
short,  put  in  light  gravy  or  Spanish  sauce 
and  serve  in  the  dish  with  a  slice  of  veal 
on  top. 

Napolitaine  is  the  French  spelling; 
Neapolitan  is  the  English;  it  means  ot 
the  city  of  Naples  in  Italy. 

872— Cutlets  of  Minced  Chicken,  Bor- 
deiaise. 


2  solid  cups  chicken  meat,  or,  equal  to 
the  meat  of  one  fowl. 
I  cup  panada. 
^  cup  butter. 

1  tablespoon  minced  onion. 

2  tablespoons  minced  mushrooms. 
2  eggs. 

Thyme,  parsley,  pepper,  salt. 

Pick  the  chicken  meat  to  pieces  and 
mince  it;  there  should  be  over  a  pound. 
Make  panada  by  soakmg  white  bread  in 
cold  water  and  squeezing  dry.  Put  the 
butter  in  a  frying-pan  along  with  the  on- 
ions and  mushrooms,  and  stir  over  the 
fire  a  few  minutes,  then  put  in  the  i.anada 
and  when  hot  add  the  eggs  and  after  that 
the  chicken  and  seasonings. 

Let  get  cold  in  a  pan,  then  make  up 
with  floured  hands,  first  in  pear  shapes, 
small  size  and  flatten  them  to  look  like 
lamb  chops.  Get  a  piece  of  macaroni 
for  each  one  and  insert  it  to  look  like  the 
bone.  Dip  in  egg  and  cracker  dust  and 
fry  in  lard  or  oil.  Serve  with  Borde- 
laise  sauce  in  the  dish  and  for  ornament 
take  a  small  crouton  of  fried  bread,  cut 
heart  shaped,  dip  in  tomato  sauce,  sprin- 
kle with  parsley  dust  and  set  in  the  end 
of  the  dish. 


873— Croustades  of  Chicken  Livers. 


The  livers  of  poultry  and  game  being 
high-flavored  should  be  set  apart  for  spe- 
cial uses  instead  of  being  stewed  promis- 
cuously with  the  chicken,  or  pot-pies  to 
which  they  give  a  taste  that  may  not  be 
to  the  general  liking.  In  some  of  the 
most  elaborate  ragouts  of  the  French  or-« 
der,  these  livers  are  used  in  equal  parts 


JJ7 


COOKING  J^OR  PROMT. 


with  truffles,  mushrooms  and  wine  as  spe-  I  the  crust  made  short  and  the  pies  or  tarts 
cial  flavorings .    A  simple  brown  stew  of       *     '       ' 
chicken  livers  in  meat  gravy  makes  a  good 
dish  served  in  cases  made  as  directed  in 


the  next  article. 


baked  to  dryness  in  a  slack  oven. 
877~T(0uble   in    Planning     Dinners 


B74--Potato   b hells   or   Croustades. 

Make  the  same  mashed  potato  prepa- 
ration as  for  croquettes  with  one  or  two 
yolks  in  it,  take  it  on  the  pastry  board  with 
a  little  flour,  make  a  loncj  roll  of  it,  cut 
off  slices  like  common  biscuits  in  size, 
dip  them  in  egg  and  cracker  dust  t\vice 
over,  giving  them  a  double  coating. 
Then  take  a  small  cutter  and  mark  a  lid 
in  each  one  as  you  would  in  a  puff-paste 
tartlet.  Put  them  in  the  frj'ing  basket  to 
fry,  and  only  keep  them  in  the  hot  lard  a 
short  lime  lest  they  burst  out  of  shape. 
When  of  a  good,  yellow -brown  color 
take  up,  lift  out  the  lid  with  a  teaspoon 
pomt  and  scoop  out  the  inside,  making  a 
crisp  shell  of  potato  to  be  filled  with  any 
kind  cf  savory  ragout  or  mince.  After 
maki  g  the  round  shape  once,  oval  and 
diamond  and  boat  shapes  can  be  made 
as  well.  It  is  work  that  consumes  a  good 
deal  of  time — not  adapted  for  crowded 
houses. 


875— Apricots  a  la  Colbert 


Half  an  apricot  or  peach  placed 
against  a  like  amount  of  rice  croquette 
mixture,  egged  and  breaded  in  the  form 
of  a  ball,  and  fried  in  a  kettle  of  lard. 
When  done,  light-colored,  rolled  in  suzar 
and  served  with  sauce  in  the  dish,  made 
of  the  apricot  syrup.  Make  rice  croquette 
preparation  as  at  No.  iS8,  or  light  potato 
croquette  with  a  little  sugar  added. 
Some  of  the  canned  apricots  are  firm 
enough  to  use  for  this  purpose.  Drain 
them  well  from  the  juice. 


876— Preserved    Tomato    Tarts    or 
Fies. 

When  there  are  fresh  tomatoes  around, 
perhaps  already  peeled  and  nototherwise 
needed  il  is  easy  to  put  them  in  a  pan 
with  a  cup  of  sugar  and  piece  of  bruised 
^in'jccr  and  let  slowly  stew  down  to  pre- 
<>crvcs.    Make  small  open  pies  of  them^ 


The  last  dinner  was  not  well  planned ; 
there  were  good  things  in  plenty  but  they 
ought  not  to  have  met  in  the  same  bill  of 
fare;  there  were  too  many  fries;  came 
near  being  all  fried;  the  fish  in  batter 
with  potatoes  and  onions  fried,  chicken 
cutlets  breaded  and  fried,  croustades  the 
same,  croutons  too,  and  then  apricots  a 
la  Colbert.    It  was  a  mistake  to  have  it 
so,  and  such  mistakes  are  being  made 
wherever  bills  of  fare  are  written  continu- 
ally.   W^hen  we  see  a  bill  of  fare  in  print 
in  a  newspaper,  it  generally  is  a  model 
one  or  tries  to  be  so ;  but  models  there 
are  few  or  none  in  actual  practice.    The 
cook  does  not  intend  to  get  several  dishes 
of  the  same  nature  or  appearance  in  the 
same  dinner  and  generally  does  not  know 
it  till  it  is  too  late  to  make  a  change ; 
perhaps  his  time  for  reflection  was  short 
or  he  was  thinking  about  the  butcher^s 
bill,  or  had  found  one  thing  he  intended  to 
use  was  spoiled,  and  an  unsuitable  sub- 
stitute was  put  in  hastily.    While  one  bill 
may  be  all  fries,  perhaps  another  time  it 
will  be  all  cream — cream  soup,  fish  with 
cream  sauce,  macaroni  a  la  Bechamel, 
onions  in    cream,   fried  cream  fritters, 
cream  cakes  and  ice  cream — for  if  there 
is  a  pastry  cook  he  is  sure  to  be  lucky 
enough  to  come  in  with  his  contribution 
of  creams  at  the  same  time.    Another 
day  the  dinner  will  be  all  dough,  with 
nudel  soup,  fish  in  batter,  meat  pie  ris- 
soles or  kromeskies,  fritters  of  some  kind 
or  pancakes  and  a  batter  pudding,  or 
fruit  cobbler.    Still  again  there  may  be  a 
surfeit   of   oysters;  oysters  raw,  oyster 
soup,  fish  with  oyster  sauce,  oyster  stuff- 
ing in  the  turkey  and  oyster  patties.    So 
it  goes  about  planning  a  dinner.    One  of 
Thackeray's  novels  has  a  French  chefior 
a  character,  who  goes  oft"  and  plays  the 
piano  while  composing  his  bill  of  fare  and 
seems  ludicrous  to  the  reader  but  there  is 
nothing  extravagant  about  that.     Most 
cooks  make  up  the  bulk  of  the  bill  of  fare 
for  to-morrow  whilst  carving  or  dishing 
up    their    entrees    to-day    when    their 
thoughts  are  upon  the  subject;  but  some 
must  1:0  off  and  smoke  or  sit  alone,  and 
the^e  is  no  reason  why  a  piano  or  a  banjo 
might  not  come  in  useful  at  such  a  time 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


uS 


and  help  to  prevent  the  bad  arrangement 
which  makes  a  dinner  be  all  cream  or  all 
dough,  or  of  any  one  thing  more  than  its 
due  proportion.  And  we  have  not 
touched  the  still  higher  consideration  of 
how  some  dinners  are  all  heaviness  and 
indigestibility,  beginning  with  a  heavy 
soup  and  stuffed  fish  running  on  through 
dishes  that  allow  no  relief  by  contrast  to 
plum  pudding,  mince  pie  and  tutti  frutti ; 
while  others  are  as  uniformly  thin  and 
meagre,  going  from  weak  consomme 
through  water,  and  more  water  to  a 
finale  of  lemon  water  ice.  If  a  piano  will 
help  theproper  planning  of  a  diiiner,  ev- 
ery house  ought  to  have  one.  ^ 

Dinner. 

August  6. 

Soup— Mulligatawney  a  la  Manhattan, 
(4qts  32  cents.) 

Sheephead,  a  la  Dieppaise  (2  lbs  24, 
trimmings  20 ;  44  cents.) 

Potatoes,  serpentine. 

Roast  beef  (i  rib  steak  rare  1  lb  15 
cents . 

Beef  a  la  mode  Pariessene  (2  lbs  with 
pork  etc  33  cents.) 

Veal  pie,  a  la  Fermiere  (i^  lbs  veal 
18,  crust  etc.  8;  26  cents.) 

Cutlets  of  sweetbreads,  Victoria  (12  or- 
ders, I  ib  sweetbreads  25,  sauces,  bread- 
ing, frymg  20;  45  cents.) 

Green  peas  10,  cabbage  4  string  beans 
2,  corn  and  rice  15,  potatoes  15  (46 
cents.) 

Indian  pudding,  hard  sauce  {3  pts  and 
sauce  26  cents.) 

Blackberry— apple  pie  (2  pies  large  20 
cents.) 

Pineapple  ice  (made  like  No.  214  with 
water  and  whites  instead  of  cream,  2  qts 
frozen  50  cents .) 

Cake  assorted  (15  cents.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  pickles,  condi- 
ments (32  cents.) 

Milk,  cream,  buttermilk  (38  cents.) 

Coffee,  tea,  bread,  butter  {24  cents.) 

Total  $4.46;  32  persons,  14  cents  a 
plate. 


878— Mul  igataw  y  a    la   Manhattan. 

Mulligatawny  soup  is  alwavs  a  curry 
soup  although  it  may  be  changed  in 
other  respects.     This  remark  is  prompted 


by  the  mistake  some  cooks  are  making 
of  giving  the  name  to  a  soup  made  of  to- 
matoes and  vegetables  without  curry- 
powder.  Mulligatawny  is  from  two  East 
Indian  words. 

The  soup  abpve  named  is  a  chicken 
and  rice  soup^  with  enough  curry  powder 
mixed  in  to  give  a  pale  yellow  color.  It 
is  light  and  simple.  Boil  the  fowl  in  the 
stock ,  take  out  and  cut  it  in  dice.  Strain 
the  stock,  put  in  vegetables  cut  in  dice 
and  the  chicken  and  little  rice,  curry, 
seasonings  and  small  amount  of  starch 
thickening. 

879 -Sheephead  a  la  Dieppoise. 


Fillets  of  fish  placed  in  a  deep  baking 
pan,  a  matelotte  (or  fish  stew)  poured  over, 
cracker  crumbs  on  tojD  and  baked.  Di- 
eppe is  a  seaport  and  fishing  town.  Cut 
the  sheephead  or  other  fish  in  two-ounce 
strips,  free  from  bones.  A'lince  an  onion 
fine.  Butter  the  baking  pan.  strew  the 
onion  in  and  fill  with  the  nsh. 

For  the  matelotte  make  white  sauce 
about  3  cups,  and  put  into  it  shrimps, 
oysters  and  button  mushrooms,  about  J4 
cup  of  each,  or  if  oysters  are  out  of  sea- 
son, use  lobster  or  crab  substitutes,  pour 
over  the  fish  in  the  pan,  bake  as  above 
stated.  Dish  up  with  some  ot  the  sauce, 
and  serve  potatoes  in  the  same  plate. 


880— Potatoes  Serpeil-ne. 


There  is  an  instrument  like  an  auger 
made  for  the  special  purpose  of  boring 
out  potatoes  in  corkscrew  shapes.  When 
it  has  passed  through  a  potato  you  have 
two  spirals  of  the  size  and  appearance  of 
strands  of  untwisted  rope.  Fry  light 
colored  in  hot  lard.  Serve  with  fish  and 
entrees. 


881— Beef  a  la  Mode  Parissienne. 

A  piece  of  beef  larded  with  salt  pork 
only,  braised  tender,  garnished^  in  the 
dish  with  larse  cuts  of  vegetables  in  fancy 
forms,  and  very  green  peas,  and  a  crou- 
ton. Braise  the  beef  as  usual.  Prepare 
an  assortment  of  bri<;ht-colorod  vegeta- 
bles— carrots,  turnips,  parsnips,  anything 
that  may  be  at  hand,  and  cut  them  in 
shapes  like  a  section  of  an  oran  e,  and 
some  like  bottle  corks ;  and  for  the  roun<l 


[jg 


COOKING    J^OR  PROFIT. 


ones  pick  out  small  onions,  size  of  mar- 
bles, and  fry  them  till  thty  are  lightly 
browned,  in  a  frying  pan.  Boil  the  vege- 
tables, then  put  them  and  the  onions  in 
brown  sauce ;  strain  in  the  braised  beef 
gravy  and  add  little  wine.  Have  a  bowl 
of  small  peas,  very  green,  either  garden 
or  Frcncn  canned.  Slice  the  a  la  mode 
beef,  place  mixed  vegetables  in  gravy 
around  it,  spoonful  of  peas  on  top  and  a 
crouton  dipped  in  sauce  at  one  end. 


882~V6al  Pie,  a  la  \  ermier 


Femiier  is  French  for  farmer ;  a  la  mode 
fermiere  means  country  style.  Make  a 
good  veal  stew  with  milk  in  it  as  directed 
for  veal  pot  pie,  cover  with  short  pie 
crust  and  bake. 


883--Cullets  cf   Sweetbreads,  a   la 
Victoria. 


Croquette  mixture  of  sweetbreads  made 
in  cutlet  shapes. 

There  are  two  principal  ways  of  pre- 
paring; croquettes,  either  with  panada  as 
for  the  chicken  cutlets  of  the  last  dinner 
or  with  roux  of  butter  and  flour,  which  is 
richer.  Preparj  the  roux  and  the  sauce 
made  of  it  by  putting  a  cup  oi  flour  and 
large  Y2  cup  butter  into  a  irying  pan  and 
stir  over  the  fire  until  they  bubble,  hen 
add  2  cups  broth,  allowing  it  to  boil  with 
constant  stirring;  this  makes  sauce  of 
double  thickness.  Put  in  a  pound  or 
more  of  minced  sweetbreads  previously 
boiled,  and  2  raw  eggs.  Stir  till  well 
cooked,  add  little  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper, 
lemon  juice,  and  then  cool  it  in  a  pan. 
Make  out  in  shape  of  mutton  chops, 
stick  a  length  of  macaroni  to  imitate  the 
bone,  dip  in  ecg  and  cracker  dust,  and 
fry  in  hot  lard.  Serve  with  Allemande 
sauce  in  the  dish  and  garniture  of  crou- 
tons, fancy  potatoes  or  quenelles. 


884— Baked  Indian  Pudding— Richest. 

4  cups  milk — a  quart. 

I  heaped  cup  com  meal— 6  ounces. 

Butter  size  of  an  egg — 2  ounces. 

I    large    cooking    spoon    molasses — 

^  ounces. 


4  eggs  (8  yolks  are  better.) 

I  small  lemon. 

Make  mush  of  the  milk  and  meal  and 
set  it  at  the  back  of  the  range,  or  -on  a 
brick  and  with  a  tight  lid  on  keep 
cooking  slowly  for  an  hour  or  two.  Then 
grate  in  the  rind  of  lemon  and  squeeze  in 
iuic,  of  half;  add  the  black  molasses, 
butter  and  eggs  and  bake  in  a  2  quart  pan 
about  ^  hour.  It  makes  3  pints.  As 
only  half  the  people,  or  probably  less 
will  order  pudding  or  any  other  ordinary 
dish  in  a  plentiful  dinner  this  amount  is 
enough  for  a  dinner  for  30.  There  are 
plenty  of  cooks  even  in  very  good  hotels 
who  can  never  make  a  satisfactory  In- 
dian pudding ;  it  runs  with  them  from  a 
hard  corn  cake  to  a  sort  of  brown  gruel 
which  nobody  wants.  The  only  remedy 
is  to  weigh  or  measure  the  ingredients 
and  follow  directions. 

885 -Mixed  Fruits  For  Pies. 

When  certaia  kinds  of  fruits  have  been 
repeatedly  used  because  of  their  plenti- 
fulness  some  variety  may  be  had  by  mix- 
ing two  sorts  together.  Apples  and 
blackberries  are  good  in  any  fonn  of 
pastry  when  so  mixed ;  in  the  bakery  pies, 
No.  -^03,  in  steamed  fruit  puddings,  No. 
176,  and  in  the  ordinary  family  pie — and 
mulberries  which  aro  almost  useless 
alone  may  be  used  as  well  as  any  other 
fruit  if  mixed  with  an  acid  variety. 


886— Trouble  With  Captain  Joh  son. 

The  trouble  with  Captain  Johnson 
was,  he  was  too  superficial  in  his  methods 
for  his  own  interests  and  was  not  so 
smart  as  he  thought  himself.  It  was  a 
long  way  from  this  place;  yet  I  could  not 
help  reverting  to  one  of  the  extremes  of 
wastefulness,  wheii,  by  a  singular  unfit- 
ness of  season,  jurt  as  I  was  deploring  the 
loss  of  frying  fat  in  making  the  dinner  of 
two  days  ago,  the  woodman,  or  keeper  of 
this  place  through  the  winter  time,  came 
with  a  complaint  that  he  is  netting  no 
grease  this  summer  for  his  wife  to  make 
her  winter's  soap  with,  as  he  has  been 
used  to  do,  and  that  the  waste  from  the 
kitchen  is  not  sufficient  to  fatten  over 
half  the  pigs  he  has  supplied  himself 
wiih,  and  his  pork  crop  will  be  deplora- 
bly short.    He  intimates  that  his  place  is 


SAN  JiRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


J20 


not  worth  much  to  him  if  shorn  of  these 
I)erquisites.  This  is  a  sad  a\se,  but  none 
of  us  get  any  such  perquisites  in  this 
house.  The  question  is  here  how  a 
good  table  can  be  set  in  a  house  that 
charges  ten  dollars  a  week  when  all  the 
saving  ways  of  turning  one  thing  into  an- 
other and  using  up  everything  by  the  ap- 
pliance of  skill  such  as  the  French  are 
credited  with  in  the  same  Ime  are  brought 
into  requisition  and  carried  out  industri- 
ously, and  not  how  many  hogs  can  we 
fatten,  or  how  many  barrels  of  grease  can 
we  make.  Poor  John!  By  the  time  the 
little  suet  that  comes  on  the  closely 
trimmed  meats  has  been  used  for  short- 
ening pie  crusts  and  puddings,  and  the 
fat  from  the  roasts  and  soups  is  used  for 
frying  and  sautemg,  there  is  hardly 
enough  left  for  him  to  grease  his  boots 
with.  I  know  from  experience  that 
thousands  of  meals  are  sold  daily  for  from 
20  to  25  cents  that  are  allowed  to  cost  40 
or  50  cents,  not  through  what  the  people 
eat  or  want,  but  because  of  the  unneces- 
sary wastes  of  all  kinds  and  the  extrane- 
ous expenses,  and  the  sellers  of  meals  on 
those  losing  terms  are  only  kept  up  by 
their  beds,  their  bar  profits,  livery  or 
other  source  of  revenue. 

John  is  a  young  man  and  was  born  too 
late.  He  would  have  been  happy  on 
Captain  Johnson's  steamboat  on  the 
Mississippi  where  the  cooks  made  from 
7^  to  10^  barrels  of  grease  to  sell  for 
themselves  every  trip  the  boat  made.  It 
will  be  observed  there  was  always  a  half  I 
barrel— that  is  where  Captain  Johnson ' 
comes  in.  He  could  neither  read  nor 
write,  but  he  owned  his  steamboat  and 
she  was  a  good  one — the  America — carry- 
ing cotton,  tobacco  and  pork  from  the 

city  of  N ,  State  of  1' .,  to 

New  Orleans,  and  taking  molasses  and 
imported  goods  on  the  return  trip.  But 
New  Orleans  was  the  point  the  employes 
considered  the  beginning  and  the  end  of 
the  trip.  This  used  to  take  about  three 
weeks  on  the  average.  On  every  trip  up 
the  boat  used  to  take  on  a  supply  of  pine 
knots  at  the  moutn  of  Red  River;  that 
was  racing  fuel  kept  ready  in  case  any 
boat  came  in  sight,  that  it  was  necessary 
to  beat;  for  ihe  America  could  beat  most 
of  them.  But  before  reaching  Red  River 
on  the  return  trip,  that  stock  of  pine  was 
exhausted;  and  there  being  nothing  but 
Tennessee  poplar  and  gum  wood  on  the 


boat.  It  was  no^  uncommon  thing  for  the 
engineers  to  seize  all  the  bacon  shoulders 
and  hams  they  could  lay  their  hands  on 
to  mix  with  it  to  make  more  steam.  The 
cooks  thought  that  a  very  poor  use  to 
put  fat  bacon  to,  and,  to  prevent  it,  all 
they  could  lay  their  hands  on,  they  cut 
up  and  laid  snugly  out  of  the  engineers' 
reach  in  the  bottom  of  their  grease  bar- 
rels. Captain  Johnson,  as  may  well 
be  supposed,  was  averse  to  all  such  pro- 
ceedings, and  instituted  a  rule  which  none 
dared  break,  that  no  soap-grease  man 
should  take  away  the  "slush"  or  any  part 
of  it  before  he  had  examined  it.  Does 
the  reader  think  that  that  placed  the  boys 
in  a  bad  fix?  Not  at  all ;  they  knew  him 
well.  So  every  trip  on  the  day  of  reach- 
ing port  he  went  down  into  the  kitchen 
and  rolled  up  his  right  sleeve. 

"Well,  boys,  how  many  barrels  of 
slush  have  you  made  this  trip?"  ( This  is 
where  the  politicians  get  the  word  "slush 
money").  "Only  eight  and  a  half.  Cap- 
tain,— been  as  saving  on  you  as  possible 
— it  might  have  been  ten  barrels  if  we 
hadn't  took  good  care." 

"Eight — nine!  wh}^  you  villains— 
what  do  you  mean,  going  to  rob  me  out 
of  my  boat?" 

"Captain,  we  had  a  big  trip  of  passen- 
gers up,  and  a  long  trip,  and  the  meats 
were  some  fatter  than  usual,  and  this 
ain't  so  much  as  last  trip  by  half  a — " 

"Let  me  see  it— let  mj  see  it — well, 
why  don't  you  bring  me  my  long  flesh 
fork — here— no,  not  that,  the  long  one. 
Oh  you  infernal  rascals,  I  know  you.  I 
began  life  as  a  cook  myself,  and  I  know 
you." 

And  with  that  Captain  Johnson  began 
forking  the  contents  of  the  first  full  barrel 
over  into  the  half-filled  barrel  that  stood 
ready  for  it.  By  the  time  the  full  barrel 
was  half  emptied  the  half  barrel  was,  of 
course,  full;  and,  having  no  more  room, 
he  commenced  forking  over  the  next  full 
barrel  into  that  he  had  just  quit,  never 
reaching  the  bottom  of  any  barrel  in  the 
row,  but  keeping  up  his  talk  all  the 
while. 

"You  can't  rob  me,  boys,  I've  got  eyes 
and  my  eyes  ain't  sheep's  eyes  that  you 
can  pull  the  wool  over — I've  been  a  cook 
and  I  know  the  ropes — and — and  I've 
pulled  'em  all — there,  now ;  I've  got  you, 
what's  this?" 


191 


COOKING    I^OR  PROFIT, 


But  it  aUvays  proved  to  be  a  bare  bone 
or  something  worthless ;  and  so  the  farce 
was  always  carried  out  on  every  trip  dur- 
ing the  eigtit  month's  season,  and  the 
boys  received  $4  a  barrel  from  the  soap 
men  for  spending  money  as  soon  as  the 
boat  reached  the  wharf. 

It  stands  in  proof  that  human  nature — 
even  steamboat  human  nature — is  not 
wholly  depraved;  that  nobody  ever 
wounded  Captain  Johnson's  self-love  by 
informing  him  how  grossly  he  was  bemg 
deceived.  Suppose  the  boys  beat  him  out 
of  a  hundred  dollars  over  and  above  what 
was  right ;  he  must  be  dead  before  this ; 
for  he  was  well  along  in  years  at^  that 
time,  and  surely  it  was  worth  twice  a 
hundred  dollars  to  him  to  die  in  the 
happy  belief  that  nobody  had  ever  been 
able  to  pull  the  wool  over  his  eves. 


Dinner. 


August  7. 

Soup— Fotage  a  la  Bagiation  (6  qts 
36  cents.) 

Croaker  in  batter,  sauce  remoulade  (3 
lbs  and  sauce,  46  cents.) 

Potatoes  a  la  Bazaine. 

Boiled  mutton,  caper  sauce  (boned 
shoulder,  2  lbs  and  sauce  27  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (2  lbs  flank  22  cents.) 

Spring  lamb  (hind  quarter,  6  lbs  70 
cents.) 

Emince  of  veal  with  eggs  (6  orders,  8 
cents.) 

Tim  bales  of  macaroni  a  la  Rossini  (15 
orders  23  cents.) 

Rice  5,  peas  12,  com  15,  cabbage  6, 
potatoes  15  (53  cents.) 

Sliced  bread  and  butter  pudding  (with 
sauce,  2  qts,  20  orders  22  cents.) 

Apricot  pie  (2  with  one  can  apricots 
25,  crust  5,  30  cents.) 

Vanilla  ice  cream  (2  qts  pure,  3  when 
frozen  65  cents.) 

Chocolate  cake  (finest,  No.  894,  i  lb 
12  cents.) 

White  cake  (finest.  No.  622,  i  lb  10 
cents.) 

Fruit,  cheese,  crackers,  pickles  (30 
cents.) 

Milk,  cream,  buttermilk  (38  cents.) 

Bread,  butter,  coffee,  tea  (28  cents.) 

Total  $5  20;  32  persons,  16  cents  a 
plate. 


887— Potagea  la  Bagration. 


Anything  denominated  bagration  will 

Erove  to  be  a  mixture  of  fish  and  vegeta- 
les.  For  potage  bagration  make  a  white 
rice  soup  with  mixed  vegetables  cut  in 
small  dice  and  fish  cut  small,  about  one- 
third  of  it  milk,  and  flavor  with  curry  or 
saflron.  If  in  Lent  make  the  stock  of 
the  fish  by  boiling  it  whole,  take  out,  strain 
the  liquor  and  cut  the  fish  in  pieces  to  be 
added  after  the  rice  and  vegetables  are 
cooked  enough.  The  soup  should  be 
rather  thick  with  rice  and  fish  and  well 
sprinkled  with  parsley  at  dishing-up 
time. 

Careme  was  at  one  period  in  the  ein- 
ploy  of  the  Countess  of  Bagration;  it  is 
probable  that  the  half  dozen  dishes  bear- 
ing that  designation  were  named  in  com- 
pliment to  her  or  to  the  house. 


888— Croaker  in   Batter,   Sauce  Re- 
moulade. 


The  croaker  is  a  southern  sea-fish, 
small,  something  like  a  white  perch — 
good  for  frying  and  broiling. 

Split  the  fish  lengthwise,  remove  the 
bone,  salt  well,  dip  in  thin  batter  same  as 
for  a  la  Horly,  or  same  as  fruit  fritters, 
and  fry  in  lard  not  too  hot.  Serve  with 
sauce  and  some  special  form  of  potatoes. 


889 — Sauce  Remoulade. 


Remoulade  is  the  French  name  of  a 
favorite  kind  of  salad  dressing  that  is 
made  with  cooked  yolks  in  partj  has  gar- 
lic, shalots  and  parsley  added.  It  is  dif- 
ferent from  mayonaise  which  is  made 
with  raw  yolks.  Looks  like  sauce  tartare, 
which  is  minced  pickles  and  shalots 
(young  onions)  in  mayonaise.    Take : 

3  hard  boiled  yolks. 

I  raw  yolk. 

^  cup  olive  oil. 

Same  of  melted  fresh  butter. 

5^  cup  vinegar. 

1  teaspoon  salt,  pinch  of  cayenne. 

1  teaspoon  made  mustard. 

2  or  3  cloves  of  garlic  crushed  and 
minced,  and  2  tablespoons  finely  minced 
green  onions. 

Pound  the  hard-boiled  yolks  in  a  bowl 


SAN  liRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


122 


with  the  butter ;  add  salt,  mustard  pep- 
per; then  the  raw  yolk,  or  two  of  them, 
and  stir  in  the  oil  gradually  and  alter- 
nately with  the  vinegar.  It  makes  a  but- 
tery compound  that  is  a  most  excellent 
salad  dressing  without  the  garlic  and  on- 
ion, but  add  those  to  make  the  sauce 
remoulade. 


8£0— Potatoes  Algerienne. 

Cut  raw  potatoes  in  large  cubes  (dice) 
same  as  for  Brabant,  the  more  perfect 
the  better ;  the  outside  trimmings  of  po- 
tato can  be  used  to  mash.  IS  team  or 
boil  first  and  let  get  cold,  then  saute  the 
cubes  in  a  frying  pan  like  Dutch  fried. 
Sprinkle  with  salt  and  parsley  when  done. 
Serve  with  fish  and  as  a  garnish  for  en- 
trees. Cold  boiled  potatoes  can  be  used 
equally  as  well  as  raw,  and  the  outside 
cuttings  cooked  a  la  Lyonaise. 

Lyonaise  refers  to  the  city  of  Lyons  in 
France.  Bazaine  was  the  name  of  a 
general. 


891— Lmince  rf  Veal  With  Eggs. 


with  the  macaroni  and  cheese. 

Take  deep  gem  pans  or  patty  pans  of 
sufficient  number,  butter  and  coat  them 
with  cracker  dust,  press  in  the  macaroni 
mixture,  put  a  small  lump  of  butter  on 
top;  bake  brown. 

Serve  with  a  spoonful  of  gravy  in  the 
dish,  the  timbale  turned  out  of  the 
mould,  a  conical  pile  of  cheese  on  top. 

.Named  for  Rossini,  the  composer,  who 
IS  said  to  have  been  extremely  partial  to 
both  truffles  and  macaroni. 


893— Sliced 


Bread  and 
ding. 


Butter  Pud- 


loaf. 


Trim  up  the  remains  of  cold  veal  or 
shave  off  the  outside  of  cold  cooked  cut- 
lets; mince  the  meat  small,  put  in  a  pan 
with  few  spoonfuls  of  hot  gravy,  season- 
ing of  powdered  thyme  or  sage  or  nut- 
meg, ialt  and  pepper;  make  hot  without 
cooking.  Serve  neatly  a  spoonful  heaped 
in  a  sniall  dish  with  a  lengthwise  quarter 
or  two  of  hard-boiled  egg  on  top  and  \ 
croutons,  fancy  potatoes  or  quenelles  for 
ornament. 


1  pound  bread  in  slices — about  i 
'^/^QM'^  butter. 
4  cups  milk. 

2  tablespoons  sugar, 

3  eggs  (6  yolks  are  better.) 
I  cup  currants. 

Grated  nutmeg  enough  to  flavor. 

Have  the  slices  free  from  dark  crust, 
spread  the  butter  on  them,  place  in  two 
layers  in  the  pudding  pan  with  currants 
between  and  on  top.  Beat  eggs,  su_;ar, 
milk  and  nutmeg  together,  and  pour  over 
the  bread,  cover  with  either  buttered  pa- 
per or  crust  and  bake  half  an  hour.  Serve 
with  sauce  or  sweetened  cream. 


892  — Timbales   cf    Macaroni, 
Rossini. 


a    la 


A  timbale  is  a  shape,  niould  or  form ; 
the  term  is  not  often  applied  to  anything 
but  moulds  of  macaroni,  rice  and  potato. 

Cook  J^  pound  of  macaroni,  and  when 
cold,  cut  It  in  inch  lengths,  and  mix  with 
it  a  cupful  of  grated  cheese,  little  salt 
and  pepper. 

Slice  up  Vz  cup  of  button  mushrooms, 
same  of  cold,  smoked  tongue,  same  of 
truffles  or  boiled  chicken  (livers  substi- 
tute); moisten  them  with  a  spoonful  of 
Spanish  sauce  or  gravy ;  then  mix  them 


894— Choccilat    Cake— Best. 

2  cups  granulated  sugar — a  pound. 
I  cup  butter — ^  pound. 

1  cup  milk — Yz  pint. 

5  cups  flour — little  over  a  pound. 

2  teaspoons  baking  powder. 

12  whites  of  eggs — or  i^  cups. 

4  ounces  chocolate. 

Vanilla  extract. 

Make  up  same  as  white  cake.  No.  622, 
melt  the  chocolate  by  warming  it  in  a 
cup  with  nothing  added,  and  beat  it  into 
the  cake.  Vanilla  extract  improves  the 
chocolate  flavor  but  is  not  essential.  4 
pounds  cost  48  cents. 


895— Trouble  in  Serving  IVleals. 

At  a  pleasure  resort  it  is  the  same  as  on 
board  a  steamer  or  at  the  first  table  of  a 
public  banquet,  everybody  sits  down  to 
the  table  at  the  same  instant,  and,  to  all 


"3 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


appearances,  begins  instantly  to  wish 
that  he  were  the  only  guest  and  all  the 
other  people  were  waiters  so  that  he 
might  be  instantaneously  served.  It  may 
seem  somewhat  ridiculous  in  people  who 
have  really  nothing  else  to  do  to  become 
so  impatient  over  a  little  delay  in  receiving 
their  meals ;  but  with  that  we  have  noth- 
ing to  do;  to  be  successtul  in  serving 
meals  it  is  quite  as  important  to  get  them 
on  the  table  expeditiously  as  it  is*to  have 
them  well  cooked. 

It  happened  that  I  was  a  passenger 
on  two  excursion  steamers  belongmg 
to  the  same  line  on  the  great  lakes  and 
saw  on  board  one  of  the  very  worst,  and 
on  the  other  the  very  best  method  in 
practice  for  dealing  with  this  diflBiculty. 
The  first  was  the  newest,  largest,  finest, 
steamerof  the  line,  the  pet  of  the  com- 
pany, and,  being  too  good  to  adopt  com- 
mon ways,  its  dining  saloon  was  run  on 
the  plan  of  those  high-priced  restaurants 
which  get  about  one  customer  in  every 
half  hour,  and  keep  him  reading  the  pa- 
per another  half  hour,  while  they  cook  a 
meal  for  him,  but  it  did  not  work  on  this 
steamer,  where  a  hundred  people  sat 
down  at  once,  and  did  not  want  to  wait 
over  a  half  minute  apiece.  There  was 
nothing  on  the  tables  that  people  could 
help  themselves  to.  The  waiters  were 
almost  invisible ;  a  few  ladies  at  the  fur- 
ther end  took  up  all  their  time  putting  a 
little  more  water  in  their  tea,  and  chang- 
ing their  beefsteaks  for  one  a  little  better 
done,  while  all  the  rest  at  all  the  other 
tables  sat  uimoticed  and  getting  madder 
the  longer  they  sat.  Perhaps  a  waiter 
with  a  tray  load  of  cups  full  of  coffee 
would  be  captured  by  one  table,  and  an- 
other with  meat  or  rolls  by  another,  but 
very  seldom  did  all  the  parts  of  a  meal 
meet  together  at  any  one  place;  the  ser- 
vice was,  therefore,  an  utter  failure,  and 
the  quality  of  the  cooker}'  could  not  even 
come  into  consideration,  no  matter  how 
high  the  pretensions  of  the  boat  to  supe- 
riority might  be.  The  other  boat  had 
two  long  tables  with  a  large  part  of  the 
staple  articles  that  go  to  complete  a  meal 
Set  upon  it  within  easy  reach — the  indi- 
vidual butters  and  creams,  bread,  pickled 
jellies,  mustard,  sugar,  cheese,  salt — 
there  was  a  saucer  as  well  as  a  plate  at 
every  seat.  When  the  steward's  bell  taps 
for  breakfast  as  the  passengers  filed  in  and 
tOok  their  places  the  waiters  at  the  same 


time  carne  on  with  their  trays  ready 
loaded  with  the  dishes  which  were  surest 
to  be  called  for — beefsteaks,  ham,  eggs, 
chops,  hot  breads  and  fried  potatoes — 
and  with  cups  of  coffee,  and  by  the  time 
the  people  were  well  in  their  seats,  the 
full  meal  was  before  them,  and  if  the 
waiters  were  then  sent  off  by  a  few  for 
chocolate,  hot  milk,  boiled  fish  instead  of 
fried  omelets,  or  a  little  more  water  in 
the  tea,  they  did  not  leave  the  great  major- 
ity in  a  state  of  suffenng  and  suspense. 
There  is  a  good  deal  in  having  plenty  of 
waiters;  and  yet  that  is  not  all;  for  often 
there  are  so  many  they  are  in  one  anoth- 
er's way,  becau:e  of  the  impossibility  of 
getting  the  cooking  or  carving  done  just 
enough  to  keep  them  in  motion.  It  is 
scarcely  necessary  to  say  that  all  was 
joy  and  peace  and  contentment  on  this 
steamer  where  the  passengers  found  their 
soup  jdst  being  set  at  their  place  as  they 
reached  it  and  where  the  ice  cream  and 
cake  came  even  before  they  were  ready 
for  them,  and  the  waiters  seemed  almost 
troublesome  by  their  frequent  offerings  of 
fruit  and  glasses  of  water,  while  the  other 
steamer,  the  too  good  one,  came  into 
port  loaded  down  to  the  guards  with  re- 
mains of  good  intentions,  of  good  things 
that  were  provided,  but  could  never  be 
served,  and  with  execrations  and  male- 
dictions of  the  dissatisfied.  Bestowing 
some  thought  on  these  things  before  we 

Eull  the  bell  rope  at  our  little  summer 
ouse,  we  have  the  eggs  broke  and  dishes 
ready  for  immediate  trying,  the  gridiron 
chock  full  of  steaks  and  chops  already 
sizzUng  over  the  glowing  charcoal  and 
the  gravy  made  ready;  and  we  get  the 
housekeeper  to  come,  like  a  good  fellow, 
and  dish  up  the  stewed  tomatoes,  pota- 
toes, oat  meal  and  side  dishes  generally, 
while  we  are  turning  out  the  omelets  and 
eggs,  or  carving  the  roast,  and  our  "sec" 
is  making  toast  or  serving  ice  cream  and 
fiiiit. 


Dinner. 


August  8. 

Soup— Consomme  with  quenelles  (5  qta 
35  cents.) 

I     Red  Snapper  a  la  Joinville  (3  lbs  and 
I  trimmings  60  cents.) 

Potato  boulettes. 

Boiled  ham  aud  tongue  (left  for  cold, 
I  say,  15  cents.) 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


124 


Roast  beef  (rip  ends  only,  3  lbs.  24 
cents.) 

Spring  lamb  (fore  quarter,  6  lbs,  70 
cents,) 

Veal  cutlets,  a  la  Milanaise  (8  orders, 
I  lb  and  trimmings,  20  cents.) 

Vinaigrette  of  brains,  Provencale  (7 
orders,  brains  with  trimmings,  25  cents,) 

Marrowfat  peas  20,  beets  in  sauce  6, 
rice  4,  string  beans  2,  tomatoes  15,  pota- 
toes 14  (61  cents,) 

Boiled  plum  pudding,  sauce  sabayon 
(No.  901,  with  sauce  38  cents.) 

Rhubarb  pie  (2  small  garden,  15  cents.) 

Peach  ice  cream  (No.  2 1 7 ;  Cal.  peaches 
in  syrup,  i  can  25,  3  pts  cream,  etc.,  75 
cents.) 

Cakes,  fruit  and  white  (charged  pre- 
vious meals.) 

Summer  apples,  nuts,  raisins,  cheese, 
40  cents.) 

Milk,  buttermilk,  2  gallons  24,  cream 
I  qt  20,  (44  cents.) 

Butter  10,  bread  6,  coffee,  tea,  12  (28 
cents.) 

Total  $5  50;  32  persons,  17  cents  a 
plate. 

896— Consomme  With  Quenelles. 

Clear  soup  like  No.  139  with  yellow 
egg  balls  in  the  plates.  One  way  of  mak- 
ing egg  balls  for  such  purposes  may  be 
lound  at  No.  797.  Another  sort  is  made 
as  follows:  Put  into  a  small  sauce- 
pan a  heaping  tablespoon  of  flour,  and 
about  the  same  weight  of  butter,  and  stir 
them  over  the  fire  as  if  to  make  butter 
sauce,  instead  of  a  full  cup  of  water  or 
broth,  which  this  amount  of  flour  would 
thicken,  pour  in  only  half  a  cup,  stir  up, 
and  you  have  a  stiff  butter  paste.  Add 
the  yolks  of  4  eggs,  one  after  the  other, 
stirrmg  over  the  fire  until  they  are  cooked 
in  the  mixture.  Season  with  salt,  if  not 
enough  in  the  butter,  cayenne  and 
nutmeg.  Make  in  balls  when  cool,  size 
of :  rapes,  poach  them  in  water,  drop  4 
or  5  in  each  plate  of  consomme  when 
served .  Another  way  is  to  pound  4  hard 
boiled  yolks  with  an  equal  amount  of 
butter,  add  all  the  dry  flour  needed  to 
make  dough  of  it,  make  in  balls  and 
boil. 


897— Red  Snapper  a  la  Joinvilie. 

Remove    the  rough  skin  of  this  fish 


with  the  point  of  a  sharp  knife  or  by  dip- 
ping in  boiling  water,  but  it  need  not  be 
split  open.  Brush  over  with  egg,  sift 
cracker  meal  upon  it,  take  up  and  place 
in  baking  pan  with  oil  or  lard  and  bake 
light  brown,  basting  once.  Make  white 
sauce  (veloute)  with  fish  liquor  or  oyster 
liquor  and  a  small  portion  of  white  wine. 
Add  to  it  oysters,  crayfish,  button  mush- 
rooms, very  small  onions,  shrimps  and 
scallops,  or  such  substitutes  as  may  be 
available  to  make  a  good  matelotte  sauce 
with  wme,  salt  and  cayenne.  Serve  por- 
tions of  the  fish  with  plenty  of  the  mate- 
lotte poured  over,  and  potatoes  in  some 
special  form  in  the  same  place.  Can  be 
served  whole  for  a  party  as  well  with  the 
matelotte  poured  around,  sliced  lemons 
on  the  fish  and  potato  boulettes  or  Par- 
isienne  stacked  in  groups  at  ends  and 
sides. 
Joinvilie  is  the  title  of  a  French  prmce 


898— Potato    BouLttes. 


Potato  balls,  made  of  potato  croquette 
mixture  with  another  raw  y^lk  added  to 
make  it  moist.  Roll  in  flour  till  they 
have  taken  a  good  coating  and  without 
egging  or  breading ;  fry  them  in  the  fry- 
ing basket  in  very  hot  lard,  only  a  min- 
ute or  two.  They  burst  open  if  fried  too 
long.  They  should  be  about  the  size  of 
walnuts  or  little  larger.  Serve  two  in 
each  plate  offish. 


899— Veal  Cutlets,  IVlilanaise. 

Cut  8  cutlets  small  and  thin,  but  of 
good  shape ;  dust  with  powdered  herbs, 
salt  and  pepper;  dip  both  sides  in  a  plate 
of  flour  and  let  them  remain  in  it  until 
near  dinner  time.  Melt  4  ounces  of  but- 
ter in  a  frying  pan,  and,  when  it  froths 
up,  lay  in  the  cutlets  and  saute  them 
brown.  Serve  durect  out  of  the  pan  with 
the  hot,  brown  butter  adhering,  and  a 
few  olives  and  a  quarter  of  lemon  in  the 
dish. 


900— Vinaig  ette     of    Brains,    a 
Provencale. 


la 


French   vinaigrette  sauce  of  minced 
pickles  and  shalots  of  olive  oil  seasoned 


^^5 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


\yith  salt  and  pepper;  poured  over  a  por- 
tion of  calfs  brains  previously  boiled. 

Parboil  the  brains  first,  and  pick  off  all 
the  dark  stains,  divide  in  portions  and 
simmer  for  half  an  hour  in  seasoned 
broth,  cut  up  a  lemon  in  them  and  keep 
hot  till  served.  The  vinaigrette  sauce  to 
be  kept  cold.  It  is  thick  with  minced 
pickles  and  shalots  enough  to  season — 
like  tartar  sauce  made  of  clear  oil  instead 
of  mayonaise. 


901— Boiled  P  UT]  Pudding. 

1  pound  white  bread  crumbs — ^4  pressed 
cups. 

^  pound  sugar — i  cup. 

Yi  pound  minced  suet — 2  pressed  cups. 

J4  pound  raisins — i  heaped  cup. 

Same  of  currants. 

I  cup  milk. 

4  eggs,  pinch  soda  and  salt. 

I  teaspoon  mixed  ground  spices — cin- 
nampn,  nutmeg,  mace,  alspice. 

Mil  the  dry  articles  together— the 
bread  crumbs  chopped  very  fine ;  mix  the 
milk  and  eggs,  salt  and  soda,  and,  if  you 
use  brandy  or  wine,  add  a  few  spoonfuls 
and  pour  it  over  the  dry  mixture  and  stir 
up  thoroughly.  Tie  up  in  two  pudding 
bags,  or  put  in  two  moulds  and  boil  or 
steam  them  4  hours.  Brandy  sauce, 
or  sabayon  or  No.  733. 

Cost,  bread  5,  sugar  4,  suet  4,  raisins 
and  currants  10,  milk  i,  eggs  5,  spices, 
lemon  peel  or  liquor  5 ;  34  cents  for  3^ 
pounds  or  25  orders. 


902— Trouble  With  the  Manager. 


The  trouble  with  our  manager  is,  he  is 
not  making  as  much  money  as  he  ex- 
pected, and  he  is  looking  at  the  table 
and  at  my  regularly  rendered  account  of 
cost  per  "meal  to  find  the  reason  why. 
Another  of  those  blue  spells  has  come 
upon  us  which  often  occur  early  in  Au- 
gust when  it  turns  unseasonably  cold  and 
there  has  been  two  days  of  steady  rain. 
The  people  sit  and  mope  and  have  no 
appetites  for  meals,  eet  tired  of  them- 
selves and  want  to  get  up  and  go,  arid 
some  do  go ;  many  resort  houses  are  al- 
most emi)tied  by  the  occurrence  of  two 
rainy  days.  Not  only  that,  but  those 
who  are  free  are  often  curious  to  try  a 


number  of  different  places  during  the 
season  and  although  the  average  of  goers 
and  comers  may  be  equal  in  the  end,, 
there  are  times  when  an  hotel  is  almost 
depopulated  for  no  reason  but  that  it  is 
the  ebb  before  the  flood,  and  it  happens 
so. 

The  way  it  began  between  the  mana- 
ger and  myself  was  this :  You  see  the 
manager  at  such  a  small  place  as  this  has 
to  be  a  gentleman  of  all-work ;  he  is  re» 
quired  to  look  sweet,  and  play  croquette 
and  tennis  part  of  the  time,  but  he  alsa 
acts  as  host,  clerk,  cashier,  bookkeeper,, 
paymaster  and  part  steward.  As  long  as 
there  was  nobody  in  the  house  and  no 
bills  to  collect  we  will  suppose  the  owner 
of  the  place  put  up  the  money  for  ex- 
penses, but  when  there  began  to  be  some 
j  receipts,  the  manager  was  told  to  go  it 
alone,  and  I  expect  he  has  been  counting: 
over  his  money.  Day  after  to-morrow- 
he  has  to  pay  all  his  help,  the  tenth  being 
the  day  of  the  month  alinost  always  ob- 
served in  that  way,  for  by  that  time  the 
monthly  bills  which  fall  due  on  the  first 
have  been  collected  and  the  indebtedness 
to  the  butcher  and  market  men  has  been 
liquidated,  then  when  the  employees  are 

Caid  he  can  count  over  his  balance  on 
and,  or  at  least  ask  where  it  is.  If  our 
crowd  had  kept  up  to  about  forty-five 
souls  he  would  have  been  away  ahead 
and  would  have  asked  me  no  questions; 
as  it  is  he  has  been  asked  on  every  trip  to 
town  to  bring  back  a  couple  of  cans  of 
mushrooms,  or  a  dozen  lemons,  or  a  can 
of  shrimps  and  bottle  of  oil  and  so  forth 
and  while  he  always  brings  them  he  hesi- 
tates and  asks  first  if  they  are  really  nec- 
essaiv,  with  a  great  stress  laid  upon  the 
"really."  Now,  the  butcher  at  the  Glen 
know^  we  get  our  meats  by  express  and 
never  go  to  him  except  in  a  case  of  ne- 
cessity ;  consequently,  he  puts  his  finger 
in  our  manager's  eye  every  time  he  sells 
him  a  piece  of  meat.  This  afternoon  he 
sold  the  manager — who  is  proud  to  say 
he  does  not  know  one  piece  of  meat  from 
another— a  piece  of  the  neck  of  beef  for 
a  roast,  and  flour  briskets  of  mutton  for 
racks  and  loins  to  cut  into  chops,  and 
when  I  explained  the  manageronly  laugh- 
ed, and  said  it  was  good  enough,  and  he 
would  like  to  make  some  money  anyhow,, 
and  there  was  no  use  of  being  so  particular 
Then  he  went  on  to  ask  why  the  dinners 
now  were  costing  sixteen  and  seventeea 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


126 


cents  a  plate  according  to  my  own  show- 
ing; whereas,  for  two  or  three  weeks 
they  ran  from  seven  to  eleven  cents  only, 
and  why  the  same  cheap  scale  could 
not  be  always  preserved.  There  is  no 
reason  why.  He  is  in  the  right.  Ten- 
cent  dinners  such  as  we  had  three  weeks 
back  could  be  continued  all  the  season, 
and  give  satisfaction.  However,  I  have 
not  been  under  any  instruction  or  restraint 
in  this  matter.  If  the  owner  of  the  place 
has  had  any  thought  about  the  matter,  it 
has  probably  been  only  to  see  what  I 
would  do,  and  in  what  ways  this  sum- 
mer's style  would  difier  from  the  house- 
hold style  of  keeping  up  a  table.  John, 
the  keeper,  has  been  comparing  the  fru- 
gal management  of  provisions  this  sum- 
mer, which  leaves  him  no  perquisites  with 
the  waste  of  former  years,  which  gave 
him  a  large  pork  crop,  and  he  thinks  it 
extreme  nig^^ardliness. 

The  manager,  who  was  not  here  last 
year,  is  comparing  the  seventeen  -cents-a- 
plate  of  to-day,  with  the  ten-cents-a- 
plate  of  last  month,  and  it  seems  to  him 
a  change  to  extravagance.  There  is  no 
room  for  a  reasonable  doubt  that  there 
was  much  wasted  last  year  through 
want  of  knowing  what  to  do  with  it,  and 
through  cooking  too  much  as  it  lakes  to 
make  our  most  expensive  meals  now. 
The  extravagance  of  the  dinners,  such  as 
it  is,  arises  from  the  use  of  more  meat  in 
the  soups  and  sauces,  the  use  of  sea-fish, 
which  the  butcher  sends  according  to  a 
custom  which  prevails,  at  eleven  cents, 
and  which  costs  121^,  delivered;  where- 
as, the  lake  fish  costs  but  9;  and  the 
cooking  in  fillets  entails  a  loss  of  bulk 
and  requires  more  pounds  gross  for  a 
given  number  of  people  than  if  cooked 
plain,  with  the  bones  in.  There  has 
been  an  indulgence  in  a  few  cans  of  pine- 
apple, and  other  fruits  in  syrup,  a  few 
olives,  a  bottle  of  wine,  a  mmcing  up  of 
pickles,  a  rather  more  lavish  use  of  es:gs 
and  crackers  for  frying,  and  of  lard  for 
the  same,  a  little  waste  in  the  matter  of 
potatoes  in  fancy  forms,  the  new  potatoes 
being  dearer  than  the  old,  and  all  the 
odd  cents  counted  up  together  have 
swelled  the  sum  total.  There  has  not 
been  a  corresponding  increase  in  the  cost 
of  breakfast  and  supper,  the  latter,  in- 
deed, being  half  made  up  of  the  meats 
and  other  remains  from  dinner,  and  be- 
ing quite  an  mexpensive  meal. 


But  what  are  we  here  for?  Nut  alone 
to  see  how  cheaply  one  summer  hotel 
can  be  kept,  but  to  find  out  how  mucli 
it  costs  to  live  we]l.  The  custom  men- 
tioned in  connection  with  the  butcher  is, 
that  one  who  supplies  a  number  of  hotels 
occasionally  get  a  refrigerator  car  full  of 
special  kinds  of  provisions,  which  he 
sends  around  to  his  first-class  customers, 
without  waiting  for  the' order,  assuming 
that  a  novely  will  be  welcome  in  the 
height  of  the  season. 


Dinner. 

August  9. 

Soup — Pot  au  fere  (6  qts  20  cents.) 

Sliced  cucumbers  (on  table  12  cents.) 

Stewed  codfish  and  potatoes  (18  cents.) 

Corned  tongue  and  cabbage  (^  tongue 
15,  cabbage  5,  20  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (piece  loin,  25^  lbs  30 
cents.) 

Breast  of  lamb,  a  la  jardiniere  (2  bris- 
kets, 4  lbs  32  cents.) 

Ragout  of  beef,  a  la  Creole  (meat  from 
soup  pot  20,  with  trimmings  30  cents.) 

Macaroni  au  gratin  (No.  629;  12  cents.) 

Summer  beats  5,  string  beans  "^,  corn 
15,  rice  7,  potatoes  15  (45  cents.) 

Bakea  Indian  pudding  (cheap,  20 
cents.) 

Apple  pie,  rhubarb  pie  (4  pies,  28 
cents.) 

Lemon  ice  cream  (2  qts  milk,  starch, 
eggs,  etc.,  38  cents.) 

Cakes  (2  lbs  18  cents.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  pickles,  cheese  crackers 
(40  cents.) 

Milk,  buttermilk  24,  coffee  10,  tea, 
sugar  6,  bread  6. 

Total  $3  99;  40  persons;  10  cents  a 
plate.  

Eight  military  cadets  arrived  shortly 
before  dinner — had  10  add  a  little  here 
and  there  but,  practicially,  the  same  din- 
ner was  «5iifificient  that  would  have  been 
prepared  for  32 — it  is  but  a  more  thor- 
ough clean-up  of  the  dishes  and  a  little 
ekeing  out  of  the  corn  and  ice  cream, 
and  a  few  slices  of  cake  served  in  place 
of  the  departed  pudding.  In  a  case  like 
this  it  is  the  home  folks  that  go  without. 


903  -?ot-au-Feu  or  Gravy  Soup. 


Take  3  or  4  pounds  of  coarse  beef,  the 


COOKING    FOR  PROFIT. 


127 


neck  will  do  or  the  long  strings  of  the 
flank  which  some  butchers  sell  attached 
to  the  f )orter  house  steaks ;  cut  in  pieces, 
put  ii  into  a  jar  or  pot  with  6  quarts  of 
water  and  set  it  in  the  oven  while  break- 
fast is  going  on  or  at  such  a  time  that  it 
may  bake  3  hours.  Sometime  while  bak- 
ing throw  mto  the  jar  an  onion  cut  small, 
a  piece  of  carrot,  turnip,  celery  and  pars- 
nip or  whichever  may  be  at  hand,  merely 
to  give  a  little  flavor,  but  the  meat  gravy 
is  the  characteristic  of  the  soup  and  not 
the  vegetables.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Take  out  the  meat  and  reserve 
It  for  a  side  dish.  Skim  the  fat  off  the 
soup,  add  a  little  flour  thickening,  boil 
up  and  serve  with  a  few  squares  of  toasted 
bread  in  the  plates. 


904 — Stewe^  Codfish  and   Fctatces. 

Chop  a  pound  of  salt  codfish  in  pieces 
size  of  walnuts,  steep  them  a  few  hours 
to  freshen,  boil  in  water,  throw  that  away 
and  boil  again  in  fresh  water  and  milk ; 
put  in  as  many  potatoes  as  there  are 
pieces  of  fish,  also  a  small  onion,  lump  of 
butter,  pepper,  and  thicken  like  white 
sauce  with  flour. 


905--Broast  \y    L-mb,  a  la  Jardinicr. 


Chop  briskets  of  mutton  lengthwise  in 
strips,  put  them  in  a  deep  baking  pan 
witn  seasonings  and  vegetables,  cover 
with  buttered  paper  and  let  cook  in  the 
oven  until  quite  tender  and  the  liquor  is 
dried  down. 

Prepare  a  bright-colored  jardini.r  of 
very  green  peas,  white  and  yellow  tur- 
nips, string  btans,  summer  squash,  cu- 
cumbers, carrots,  whatever  ot  the  kind 
can  be  had  except  beets  which  would 
color  everythmg.  Cut  these  vegetables 
all  to  une  small  size,  and  boil  in  water 
till  done.  Mix  them  in  one  saucepan 
and  pour  over  them  the  seasoned  gravy, 
maae  in  the  baking  pan,  which  should 
not,  however,  be  of  a  dark  color.  Serve 
cutb  of  the  braised  libs  of  lamb  or  mutton 
smothered  with  the  vegetables  and  a 
spoonful  of  gravy  poured  under. 

906— Ragouts  cf  Bief,  a  la  Creole. 
Take  the  pieces  of  beef  from  the  soup 


pot  and  cut  to  medium  sized  portions. 
Mince  an  onion,  crush  a  half  head  of 
garlic  with  the  side  of  your  knife,  and 
mince  that;  put  them  on  in  a  frying  pan 
with  a  spoonful  of  the  clear  fat  from  the 
soup  and  st  r  over  the  fire  until  cooked 
and  beginning  to  brown;  then  add  a 
small  can  of  tomatoes,  rubbed  through  a 
colander;  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
then  put  in  the  pieces  of  beef  and  keep 
simmering,  set  upon  a  brick  until  fer/ea. 
If  not  likely  to  be  a  thick  sauce  b)^  boil- 
ing down  there  should  be  a  little  thicken- 
ing of  roux  or  raw  flour  added  to  the  to- 
matoes. Cut  a  leaf  shaped  crouton  of 
thin  bread  for  each  dish  and  fry  them 
brown  to  be  placed  at  the  end  for  orna- 
ment and  for  use. 


907— Baked  Indian  Pudding—Cheap. 

1  pound  corn  meal. 

2  quarts  water. 

Make  mush  ot  them,  set  at  back  of 
stove  or  on  a  brick  and  let  cook  with  a 
lid  on  a  long  time.    Then  add : 

V2  cup  butter  or  fine  minced  suet. 

I  small  cup  molasses— the  black  sort. 

4  eggs. 

I  teaspoon  ground  ginger. 

Stir  up  and  bake.  Serve  with  any 
puddmg  sauce  or  sugar  dip  or  cream. 

Costs  16  cents  for  nearly  three  quarts. 


Supper  Fo-  Forty. 

August  9. 

Oatmeal  mush  (2  heapjed  cups  i  lb, 
makes  2  qts,  5  cents.) 

Beefsteak  {21  orders,  10  tenderloins  11 
common,  3  lbs,  45  cents.) 

Broiled  ham  (6  orders,  12  ounces  net 
15  cents.) 

Cold  meats  (for  chidren,  6  orders 
charged  dinner.) 

Welsh  rarebit  (19  orders  \'%  lbs  cheese 
etc.  22  cents.) 

Broiled  smoked  salmon  (8  orders,  12 
ounces,  12  cents.) 

Potatoes  new  baked  (10  cents.) 

French  rolls  (30  rolls  12  cents.) 

Com  muffins  (No.  286;  18  deep  with  2 
cups  meal,  i  flour,  3  eggs;  13  cents.) 

Canned  giapes  in  syrup  (2  cans  50 
cents.) 

Cakes  assorted  (2  lbs  20  cents.) 


128 


SAN  I^RANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


Milk  25^  gal  30,  cream  3  pts  30,  cof- 
fee >^  lb  10,  butter  \\i  lbs  25,  tea  4, 
sugar  1%  lbs  10,  bread  3  (112  cents.) 

Total  $3  16;  40  persons,  nearly  8  cents 
a  plate. 

908— Welsh    Rar.  b:t— Three    Ways 

A  Welsh  rarebit  is  a  slice  of  cheese 
baked  upon  a  slice  of  bread;  the  season- 
ings are  optional. 

1.  A  good  and  easy  way  for  a  family 

Earty  is  to  cut  a  number  of  thin  slices  of 
read,  toast  them  and  spread  with  butter; 
cut  a  very  thin  slice  of  cheese  for  each 
one,  place  in  a  baking  pan  and  bake  on 
the  top  shelf  in  the  oven  until  the  cheese 
is  melted;  serve  hot  or  bake  only  three  or 
four  at  a  time  if  the  orders  come  that 
way. 

2.  This  is  more  elaborate;  it  is  the 
restaurant  and  club  style : 

I  pound  cheese. 

4  ounces  butter. 

I  glass  ale. 

Salt,  cayenne. 

10  slices  of  toast. 

Mince  the  cheese  small,  put  it  and  the 
butter  in  a  saucepan,  set  over  the  fire  and  1 
work  them  together  with  a  spatula  or  a 

E3stle  until  the  cheese  is  hot  and  melted,  1 
ut  take  care  not  to  let  it  reach  boiling 
heat,  but  keep  it  cooled  by  adding  ale  in  I 
small  portions  until  the  mixture  is  smooth  | 
and  creamy.    Add  cayenne  and  perhaps  I 
a  little  salt  if  not  enough  in  the  butter.  I 
Place  thin  slices  of  toast  in  the  dishes, ' 
pour  a  spoonful  of  the  creamed  cheese 
upon  them  and  set  in  the  top  of  the  oven 
for  3  or  4  minutes.    Pour  a  little  ale  upon 
the  edges  of  the  toast  and  serve. 

3.  For  a  large  number  as  in  a  hotel, 
the  creamed  cheese  prepared  as  above 
may  be  kept  warm  without  boiling  by 
setting  in  a  vessel  of  hot  water,  the  toast 
kept  ready  and  spread  with  a  spoonful  of 
the  cheese  as  called  for  and  sent  in  with- 
out baking. 

4.  Instead  of  ale  use  milk  and  a 
milder  flavored  dish  will  be  the  result, 
which  may  suit  better  at  a  country 
house. 


909~Che^se  bondue. 


Is  the  name  of  a  sort  of  cheese  trmelet 


that  is  fully  half  cheese  and  is  a  dish 
much  esteemed  in  some  quarters,  and 
does  not  mean  the  same  as  fondu  or 
melted  cheese. 

Make  the  creamed  cheese  as  for  the 
Welsh  rarebits  of  the  foregoing  receipts, 
and  while  stirring  over  the  fire  break  in  6 
eggs,  one  at  a  time,  and  finish  like 
scrambled  or  buttered  eggs.  Serve  on 
toast  or  in  a  dish  bordered  with  toast  cut 
in  shapes. 


910— Smoked  Salmon— Broiled. 


Cut  smoked  and  dried  salmon  in  broil- 
ing  slices  and  steep  in  water  for  half  a 
day.  Dry  the  slices  on  a  cloth,  brush 
with  butter  and  broil  about  5  minutes. 


Breakfast  for  Forty. 


August  10. 

Fresh  huckleberries  (2  qts  24  cents.) 

Summer  apples  (10  cents.) 

Oatmeal  and  hominy  grits  (3  cups 
makes  3  qts,  7  cents.) 

Beefsteak  (18  orders,  2]^  lbs  net  and 
butter  45  cents.) 

Mutton  chops  (9  orders,  iV^  lbs,  18 
cents.) 

Ham  (9  orders,  i  lb  net,  15  cents.) 

Eggs  any  style  (3  dozen  45  cents.) 

Codfish  balls  (  18  with  1%  lbs  fish  etc. 
24  cents.) 

Fried  mush  (4  orders  4  cents.) 

Potatoes  baked,  and  a  la  Francaise  (10 
cents.) 

Muffins  (No.  582 ;  18,  14  cents.) 

French  rolls  (30,  12  cents.) 

C9m  batter  cakes  (i  qt  9  cents.) 

Milk  2  gal.  24,  cream  2  qts  40,  butter 
ij^  lbs  25,  syrup  8,  coffee  8,  tea  2,  choc- 
olate 8,  bread  4,  sugar  12  (131  cents.) 

Total  $3  68;  40  persons;  little  over  9 
cents  a  plate. 


911— Codfish  Balls. 


There  should  be  nearly  as  much  fish 
used  as  potato,  say  i  pound  of  salt  codfish 
to  8  potatoes.  Codfish  balls  cannot  be 
made  very  good  with  cold  mashed  pota- 
toes; all  should  be  fresh  boiled  for  the 
purpose  and  made  up  hot. 

Steep  a  pound  of  codfish  in  water  to 


COOKING  lOR  PROFIT, 


129 


freshen  it,  boil  in  two  waters,  pick  free 
from  bones,  mash  it  thoroughly  in  a  pan 
with  a  potato  masher.  Turn  m  the  hot 
potatoes  and  pound  them  together,  add 
a  seasoning  of  black  pepper,  vety  little 
butter  and,  if  you  choose,  i  egg  or  2  or  3 
yolks.  Make  up  in  balls  either  round  or 
flattened  with  plenty  of  flour  on  the 
hands ;  drop  in  hot  lard  and  fry  brown. 
If  they  do  not  have  a  good  appearance 
when  done  you  can  change  it  next  time 
by  breading  them  in  egg  and  cracker 
meal. 


912— Cream  Chocolate 

There  was  the  Queen  and  Crescent 
restaurant  enjoying  qui'e  a  reputation  for 
its  chocolate,  every  cup  of  which  was 
said  to  be  served  with  ^"hipped  cream  on 
top  although,  in  fact,  no  cream  ever  came 
near  it — it  was  simply  made  to  order  and 
whisked  up  while  on  the  fire  as  directed 
at  our  No.  c^,  but  with  less  milk  than 
that,  and  served  with  the  appearance  of 
whipped  chocolate  cream  upon  it.  And 
there  was,  close  by,  the  Hotel  Fantastic, 
on  Fantastic  Beach,  that  was  said  never 
to  have  served  a  good  cup  of  chocolate 
during  the  whole  ot  its  unprofitable  ex- 
istence. Such  is  the  difference  resulting 
from  the  methods  of  making — the  latter 
using  twice  as  much  chocolate,  making 
it  hours  too  soon  and  spoiling  it  irrevo- 
cably in  the  detestable,  bain-marie  can, 
a  miniature  mud  well. 


Custard  pie  (2  large,  deep  24  cents.) 

Blueberry  pie  (i  qt,  2  pies,  large,  thin 
20  cents.) 

Lemon  ice  cream  (5  pts  pure  cream, 
sugar,  flavor,  freezing,  makes  8  pts  for  75 
cents.) 

Cakes,  assorted  kinds  (2  lbs  20  cents.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers,  pickles 
(average  42  cents.) 

Milk,  buttermilk  25^  gals.  30,  cream  1 
qt  20,  coffee  8,  tea  4,  butter  20.  jelly  10, 
bread  8,  sugar  8  (108  cents  ) 

Total  $6  44;  42  persons:  15^^  cents  a 
plate. 


Oinoer. 

August  10. 

Soup— Consomme  Knickeibocker  (6 
qts  30  cents.) 

Lake  trout  stuffed  (3  lbs  and  stuffing, 
30  cents.) 

Potatoes  a  la  Colbert. 

Boiled  ham  (shank,  2  orders  5  cents.) 

Roast  chicken  with  currant  jelly  (4 
hens,  32  orders  no  cents.) 

Beef  a  la  mode  Allemande  (3  lbs  net 
and  trimmings  45  cents.) 

Braised  mutton  with  nudels  (2  briskets, 
4  lbs  and  trimmings  40  c;rnis.) 

Summer  squash  14,  beets  4,  cabbage 
10,  rice  3,  corn  15,  potatoes  15;  (61 
cents.) 

Baked  prune  pudding  (2^  qts  with 
sauce  28  cents.) 


913— Consomme  Knickerbocker. 

It  is  chicken  broth  made  dark  colored 
with  fried  vegetables  and  chopped  fresh 
tomatoes,  and  a  small  amount  of  barley 
added.  When  you  have  fowls  that  must 
be  boiled  before  roasting,  the  liquor  they 
are  boiled  in  makes  good  soup.  Strain 
and  ikim  it.  Cut  a  mixture  of  small 
vegetables  in  dice  and  saute  them  with  a 
little  butter  and  sugar,  the  same  as  for 
Julienne ;  when  lightly  colored  put  them 
into  the  broth,  and,  if  you  have  no  fresh 
tomatoes,  use  the  solid  part  of  the  canned 
cut  in  pieces,  and  without  the  juice. 
Barley  should  be  boiled  separately  for  it, 
or  rice  that  is  already  cooked  may  be 
washed  off"  clear  and  tised  instead.  Sea- 
son to  taste. 


914— Fish  stuffed  and  Baked. 


Make  a  small  amount  of  stuffing  the 
same  as  for  chicken  and  turkey,  and  sea- 
soned with  either  powdered  thyme  or 
sage,  and  add  an  egg  or  two  yolks.  The 
back  bone  can  be  taken  out  of  the  fish 
without  Quite  dividing  the  two  sides,  by 
cutting  down  inside  nearly  to  the  skin, 
and  pulling  the  bone  away.  Wash  the 
fish  and  dry  it ;  spread  the  stufiSng  on  one 
side,  double  over  to  the  origmal  shape ;  it 
may  be  sewed  up  with  thread,  but  will 
do  very  well  without.  Place  in  the  bak- 
ing pan  and  score  the  upper  side  with  a 
sharp  knife  in  places  where  it  is  to  be  cut 
when  done.  Put  a  minced  onion  and 
some  scraps  of  fat,  salt  pork  in  the  pan, 
a  spoonful  of  drippings,  water  and  salt 
and  bake  nearly  an  hour.  Serve  out  of 
the  pan  with  a  spoonful  cf  Spanish  sauce 


130 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


or  other  gravy,  and  potatoes  in  the  same 
plate. 


915— Potatoes  a  la  Colbert. 


Like  marechale,  largest  size  of  Paris- 
ienne,  size  of  crab  apples,  of  raw  pota- 
toes, but  steamed  for  this  style  instead  of 
baked  brown,  and  sprinkle  with  fine 
parsley,  salt  and  melted  butter. 


916— Roast    Chicken    with    Currant 
Jelly. 

Boil  old  fowls  two  hours,  take  out, 
dredge  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  with 
fiour,  which  insures  a  good,  rich  brown 
color,  and  bake  about  %i  hour.  Carve 
and  serve  with  gravy  ana  currant  jelly. 

917~Beef  a  la  Mode  Allemande,  or 
German. 


Lard  a  piece  of  lean  beef  in  the  usual 
way  by  drawing  it  full  of  strips  of  pork  or 
bacon  fat,  put  it  in  a  jar  or  pot  in  the 
oven,  with  water  enough  to  cover,  and 
salt,  pepper  and  few  pieces  of  carrot  and 
turnip,  and  bake  about  three  hours. 
Take  out  the  meat,  skim  and  strain  the 
lifluor,  add  to  it  a  cupful  of  white  wine, 
one  of  raisins  and  one  of  prunes,  and  a 
small  amount  of  flour  thickening  and 
boil  up.  Put  back  into  the  gravy  the 
vegetables  that  were  strained  out  lifore 
and  serve  this  sauce  with  the  cuts  of  beef. 

918— Braised    Mutton    with    Ni>dels. 

Something  like  mutton  with  beans,  a 
la  Bretonne,  but  with  nudels  (noodles  or 
nouilles)  cooked  separately  and  in  gravy 
to  serve  with  the  cuts  of  mutton. 

The  briskets  of  mutton  as  well  as  the 
shoulders  can  be  used  up  in  this  way. 
Take  out  the  bones,  season  the  meat  and 
roll  It  up  and  bake  or  braise  it  long 
enough  to  make  it  quite  tender,  always 
keepmg  water  enough  in  the  pan  to  keep 
It  from  drymg  out,  and  a  cover  of  greased 
paper  on  top. 


919— Baked  Prune  Pudding. 

Make  a  bread  pudding,  either  No.  113 


doubled  perhaps  in  quantity,  or  at  No. 
3go.  Take  three  cups  of  stewed  prunes 
without  the  juice  and  drop  them  in  as 
you  would  raisins ;  the  prunes  are  better 
if  pitted  and  sprinkled  with  lemon  juice. 


920— Summer  Squash. 

This  vegetable  should  always  be 
steamed,  or  at  any  rate  not  boiled  in  wa- 
ter, it  being  an  object  to  get  it  as  dry  as 
possible  so  as  to  allow  the  addition  of 
milk  or  cream  when  it  is  mashed.  Shave 
ofi  the  outside  thinly  with  a  sharp  knife ; 
cut  each  squash  in  six  or  eight  pieces.  It 
depends  upon  the  age  and  distinctness  of 
the  seeds  whether  they  should  be  cut  out 
or  not;  if  large  enough  to  show  promi- 
nently in  the  mashed  squash  take  out  the 
entire  core.  Squash  cooks  in  about  half 
an  hour,  and  may  be  allowed  to  simmer 
and  dry  out  more  after  mashing  and  sea- 
soning, in  a  pan  set  upon  a  couple  of 
bricks. 


Dinner 

August  II. 

Soup— Potage  Parmentier  or  potato 
cream  (7  qts  40  cents.) 

Boiled  pickerel,  parsley  sauce  (3  lbs 
and  sauce  36  cents.) 

Potatoes  HoUandaise. 

Boiled  ribs  beef  with  horseradish  (15 
cents.) 

Roast  saddle  of  mutton  (5  lbs  55  cents.) 

Braised  veal  with  browned  i.otatoes 
(breast  5  lbs  and  potatoes,  60  cents.) 

Ragouts  of  giblets  en  croustade  (18  or- 
ders 30  cents.) 

Green  corn  fritters,  American  style  ( 50 
orders  45  cents.) 

String  beans  3,  beets,  cabbage  10,  rice 
6,  tomatoes  15,  potatoes  15  (49  cents.) 

New  green  apple  pie  (3  pies  21   cents.) 

Raspberry  pie  (2  pies  18  cents.) 

Gipsy  pudding  (24  orders  34  cents.) 

Tapioca  jelly  with  cream  (jJly  i  qt  S, 
cream  4,  12  cents.) 

Brandy  snaps  and  wafer  jumbles  (15 
cents.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  condiments  (av- 
erage 44  cents.) 

Milk  30,  cream  20,  butter  20,  bread  8, 
coffee,  tea,  sugar  r8  (96  cents.) 

Total  $5  70;  44  persons;  13  cents  a 
plate. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


W 


921-Potag 


Parmentler,  or    Potato 
Soup, 


Named  for  the  man,  M.  Parmentier, 
who  first  brought  tiie  potato  into  France. 

Take  about  lo  or  12  potatoes,  steam  or 
boil,  mash  and  mk  them  with  a  quart  of 
boiling  milk  or  cream.  Have  a  well 
seasoned  soup  stock  ready  made  with  beef 
and  veal  bones  and  the  usual  vegetables 
and  a  knuckle  bone  of  boiled  ham  and  a 
large  onion  additional  boilea  in  it,  and 
slightly  thicken  it  while  boiling,  which 
will  prevent  the  potato  puree  from  set- 
tling. Mix  4  quarts  of  this  stock  with  the 
potato  cream,  pass  through  a  strainer  or 
seive,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  a 
sprinkling  of  minced  parsley  and  keep  hot 
without  Ijoiling.  Serve  crusts  or  puff- 
paste  croutons  (No.  736)  in  the  plates. 

922— Breast  of  Veal  with    Browned 
Potatoes,  or  a  TAngiaise. 

Saw  through  the  ribs  to  make  conven- 
ient cuts ;  cook  as  dir-jcted  for  rib  ends  of 
beef  and  serve  new  potatoes  first  steamed 
and  then  browned  in  the  oven,  and  gravy 
in  the  dish. 


923— Ragout  of   Giblets   en 
fade. 


CrouS' 


Boil  the  livers,  gizzards,  hearts  and 
necks  of  poultry  in  water  to  cover,  when 
done  drain  thena  out  and  cut  all  into 
small  pieces.  Mince  an  onion  and  fry  it 
in  two  ounces  of  butter  or  oil,  put  in  two 
tablespoons  flour  and  stir  until  it  begins 
to  brown,  strain  in  the  giblet  liquor  and 
a  little  Spanish  sauce,  Worcestershire 
sauce,  or  gravy  besides;  cut  a  slice  of 
ham  ia  small  dice,  throw  that  in  and 
then  the  cut  giblets.  Season  with  cay- 
enne and  salt  and  wine,  if  wanted.  Serve 
in  patty  shells  or  croustades  like  the  fol- 
lowing. 


92&— Corn  Prlttirs  or  Mock  Ovs^ers 
—Two   Ways. 


The  French  way  of  making  com  fritters 
is  found  at  No.  817.  These  two  ways, 
one  with  canned  com  and  one  with 
roasting  ears  the  cheaper  and  much  more 
popular. 

1.  To  one  can  of  com  allow  2  eggs, 
an  ounce  of  softened  butter,  teaspoon  of 
mixed  salt  and  pepper  and  about  a  cup 
of  flour  or  accoraing  to  the  dryness  of 
the  com.  Stir  up  vigorously.  Set  a  fry- 
ing pan  over  the  fire  with  lard  in  it  just  to 
cover  the  bottom  when  hot  and  drop  in 
spoonfuls  of  the  com  mixture  flattened 
and  about  the  size  of  large  fried  oysters. 
Cook  brown  on  both  sides  and  serve  hot 
and  fresh  cooked.  Good  for  a  breakfast 
dish  as  well  as  for  dinner. 

2.  Take  ears  of  green  com  and  shave 
off  the  cob,  and  every  pint  count  the 
same  as  one  can  above,  and  proceed  the 
same  way.  These  made  with  green  com 
have  more  of  the  taste  of  oysters  than  the 
others. 


926— New  Green  Apple  Pie. 


Apples  before  they  are  ripe  are  best 
used  this  way.  Steana  them  as  you  would 
potatoes  without  paring,  when  done  mash 
them  through  a  colander.  Add  sugar, 
butter  and  nutmeg  to  the  pulp  and  make 
open  pies  with  crust  rolled  thin,  same 
style  as  pumpkin  pie. 


927— Gipsy  Pudding. 


924— Croustades  or  Shells  of    Rice. 

Make  the  same  as  directed  for  potato 
croustades,  No.  874,  using  boiled  rice 
mashed  with  yolk  of  egg  instead  of  po- 
tato. 


Sponge  jelly  cake  floating  in  a  pan  of 
cold  custard. 

Make  the  sponge  cake  No.  281  and 
bake  on  jelly-cake  pans,  put  two  to  ether 
with  fruit  jelly  between.  Make  boiled 
custard.  No.  136,  put  in  a  tin  milk  pan 
when  cold  and  the  cake  in  it.  Have  a 
cup  of  cream  in  a  large  bowl,  flavored 
with  vanilla.  Serve  spoonfuls  of  the 
cake  and  custard,  and  whip  up  the  cream 
and  serve  a  spoonful  on  top  for  a  finish. 

928— Tapioca  Jelly. 


4  cups  water. 

%  cup  tapioca — 4  ounces. 


/J-? 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


I  heaped  cup  sugar — lo  ounces. 

I  cup  raspberry  juice  or  syrup,  or  lemon 
juice  and  rind  and  water. 

Steep  the  tapioca  in  half  the  water  two 
hours.  The  water  should  be  cold  but 
set  in  a  rather  warm  place.  Boil  the 
other  pint  of  water  with  the  sugar  in  it 
and  the  raspberry  or  lemon  syrup.  Stir 
in  the  steeped  tapioca  and  cook  gently 
at  the  back  of  the  stove  until  it  is  trans- 
parent, about  half  an  hour.  Pour  into 
wetted  cups  or  moulds;  when  cold  and 
set  turn  it  out  and  serve  with  cream  or 
boiled  custard. 

Pearl  tapioca  is  the  best;  the  coarse 
granulated  if  used  should  first  be  crushed. 

Cost :  8  cents  a  quart. 


929— Brandy  Snaps. 


The  name  of  a  sort  of  molasses  wafer, 
but  there  is  no  brandy  about  them, 
4  cups  flonr — a  pound. 
I  cup  butter — ^  pound. 

1  cup  sugar— J4  pound. 

2  ounces  ground  ginger. 
Lemon  extract  to  flavor. 

1  teaspoon  soda — rounded  measure. 

2  large  cups  common  molasses — i^ 
pounds. 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour  as  in 
making  short  paste,  and  add  the  ginger. 
Make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  put  in  the 
sugar,  molasses  and  extract,  dissolve  the 
soda  and  put  in,  stir  all  together. 

Drop  the  batter  with  a  teaspoon  on 
baking  pans,  not  greased,  and  bake  in  a 
slack  oven.  The  snaps  run  out  flat  and 
thin.  Take  off  before  they  get  cold  and 
bend  them  to  tubular  shape  on  a  new 
broom  handle. 


Dinner. 

August  12. 

Soup — Consomme  St.  Xavier  (7  qts  42 
cents.) 

Lake  trout,  a  la  Genevoise  {5  lbs  and 
wine  70  cents.) 

Potato  bignets  (10  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (loin  and  flank  4  lbs  50 
cents.) 

Spring  lamb,  mint  sauce  (5  lbs  60 
cents.) 

Mutton  stew  a  Tlrlandaise  (2  lbs  and 
vegetables  13  orders  20  cents.) 

Macaroni  a  la  Palermetane  (12  orders 


12  cents.) 

Peaches  a  la  Richelieu  (i  can  in  syrup, 
20  orders  33  cents.) 

Stewed  carrots  4,  squash  6,  butter- 
beans  8,  mashed  turnips  4,  rice  5,  pota- 
toes 14  (41  cents.) 

Steamed  huckleberry  roll  (No,  937  ;  22 
orders  28  cents.) 

Saratoga  shortcake  (No.  301 ;  32  cents.) 

Floating  island  (2  qts  custard,  cakes, 
jelly,  cream  30  orders  26  cents.) 

Com  starch  jelly  (ij^  qts  and  cream  18 
cents.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers  condi- 
ments (45  cents.) 

Milk  and  buttermilk  3  gallons  36, 
cream,  3  pts  30,  butter  ij^lbs  25,  bread 
8,  cofiee,  tea,  sugar  22  (121  cents.) 

Total  $6  08;  45  persons;  13^  cents  a 
plate. 

930— Consnmme  St.  Xavier. 

^■^^""^" 

A  brown  vegetable  broth  with  a  kind 
of  nudel  paste  m  it. 

Make  a  good  consomme  as  usual,  with 
brown  roasted  chicken  and  beef  in  it  if 
practicable  or  make  good  with  meat  ex- 
tract, and  add  to  it  a  small  portion  of 
vegetables  cut  fine. 

Make  a  yellow  egg  batter  about  as  stiff 
as  for  fritters,  with  8  yolks,  a  spoonful  of 
water  and  flour  sufficient  and  add  a 
small  amount  of  minced  parsley  and 
salt.  Let  some  one  stir  the  consomme 
around  while  you  pour  the  batter  in  a 
colander  and  let  it  drip  through  the 
holes  into  the  consomme  which  immedi- 
ately cooks  it  in  rounded  lumps— an- 
other form  of  nudel  soup. 

There  is  another  way  of  reaching  a 
similar  result,  that  is  by  putting  the  yolks 
in  a  pan  and  carefully  mixing  flour  with 
them  with  the  finger  tips  while  shaking 
the  pan  at  the  same  time,  making  loose 
yellow  crumbs  of  nudel  dough,  soft  but 
separate,  and  then  scatter  them  loosely 
into  the  boiling  soup.  American  cooks 
call  this  "riffle  soup." 

St.  Xavier  is  the  name  of  a  place. 


931— Lake  Trcut  a  la  Genevoise. 


Fish  baked  in  wine  and  served  on  toast 
in  gravy. 

Take  a  5-pound  trout,  cleanse  and  wipe 
dry ;  score  through  the  skin  on  both  sides 


COOKING    JFOR  PROFIT. 


^33 


where  the  individual  portions  are  to  be 
taken  off,  and  also  sever  the  bone  by 
striking  the  point  of  a  knife  through. 
Dredge  salt  and  pepper  in  a  buttered 
bakinG;-pan,  put  in  the  fish,  a  pint  uf  wine, 
an  onion  stuck  with  cloves,  and  bunch  of 
parsley  and  thyme.  Set  in  the  oven  and 
bake  and  baste  the  fish  while  baking  very 
frequently.  The  gelatinous  gravy  from 
the^fish  makes  a  glaze  with  the  wine, 
which  is  to  be  coated  over  it  by  the  bast- 
ing. When  done,  which  should  be  in  half 
an  hour,  take  up  the  fish  into  a  dish, 
pour  a  pint  of  broth  in  the  pan  and  make 
gravy,  thickening  with  brown  roux, 
strain,  skim,  make  pieces  of  toast,  serve 
toast  in  each  dish,  well  saturated  with 
the  sauce  and  a  cut  of  the  glazed  fish 
upon  it  and  round  slice  of  lemon  dipped 
in  parsley  dust  on  top. 

To  serve  whole  in  this  style  the  head 
should  be  leit  on  and  the  fish  should  be 
brown  and  shining,  and  placed  upon  a 
large  crouton  foundation  of  fried  bread 
cut  to  its  shape  and  the  wine  gravy 
poured  around  with  garnishments  of 
lemon  and  special  forms  of  potatoes  and 
small  croutons. 


932— French  Potato  Fritters  or 
Beignets. 

This  makes  25,  small  size  for  garnish- 
ing: 
12  ounces  potato — 2  cups  mashed. 
Y-z  cup  flour — 2  ounces 

2  tablespoons  cream. 
Same  of  white  wine  or  sherry 

3  eggs  and  2  yolks 

Salt,  nutmeg  and  cayenne. 

Take  the  potatoes  from  the  dinner 
steamer  and  mash  the  required  amount 
through  a  colander  and  while  still  warm 
mix  in  the  other  ingredients  except  the 
flour.  1  he  mixture  should  be  in  a  deep 
pan  or  saucepan  and  set  in  cold  water. 

While  it  is  cooling  whip  it  light  with 
an  egg  whisk,  then  stir  in  the  flour. 

Drop  small  spoonfuls  egg-shaped  in 
hot  lard,  fry  light  colored,  dram  on  pa- 
per, serve  one  in  each  plate  of  fish  and 
with  any  dish  that  is  a  la  Dauphinoise. 

Cost,  about  10  cents  for  25  fritters. 

933— Mutton    Stew,  a  la  Irlar.daise. 

The  half-French  bill-of-fare  name  for 


Irish  stew.  No.  60.  But  there  can  be 
beef  stew  a  la  Irlandaise  as  well  as  mut- 
ton ;  it  is  beef  stewed  with  potatoes,  and 
a  very  cheap  dish.  It  is  good  with  to- 
matoes added,  but  then  these  stews  have 
other  names,  for  the  original  Irish  stew 
lias  no  tomatoes,  and  some  people, 
driven  almost  insane  through  everything 
that  is  brought  to  them  in  an  hotel  being 
flavored  with  tomatoes  against  their  lik- 
ing, (the  consequence  of  the  indiscrimi- 
nate use  of  Spanish  sauce),  are  glad  to 
turn  to  it  for  relief,  and  hope  it  will  al- 
ways keep  its  original  character.  In 
writing  a  bill  of  fare  observe  that  when 
"a  la'  comes  before  a  vowel,  as  in  Irland- 
aise or  a  ritalienne  or  a  TAndalouse — 
the  second  "a"  is  omitted,  and  the  apos- 
trophe takes  its  place;  but  the  full  "a  la" 
comes  in  before  a  consonant,  like  a  la 
Richelieu. 


934— Macaroni  a  la  Palermetane. 


The  special  name  of  the  dish  at  No. 
65.  Italienne  is  right,  too,  for  it  is  a  gen- 
eral appellation  for  any  form  of  macaroni 
or  Italian  pastes.  Palermetane  means  of 
the  city  of  Palermo,  in  Italy,  just  as  we 
might  say  Bostonian  or  Coloradan. 


935— Peaches  with  Rice,  a  la  Rich- 
elieu. 

Prepare  some  cooked  peaches  in  sjnup 
— a  compote  of  peaches — and  prepare 
some  rice  the  same  as  for  croquette  or 
rice  cake,  that  is,  slightly  sweetened  and 
flavored,  and  with  tne  yolk  of  an  egg  or 
two  in  It. 

Dish  up  a  spoonful  of  rice,  smooth  it 
around  in  the  dish,  place  half  a  peach  on 
top  and  pour  syrup  over  it.  It  is  a  sweet 
entree  like  the  fruit  fritters,  etc  . 

936>St6wed   Carrots. 


Scrape  young  carrots,  split  and  divide 
in  quarters  lengthwise,  boil  or  steam 
about  an  hour.  Put  them  in  butter 
sauce,  cream  sauce  or  plain  butter  only, 
changing  the  style  on  aifferent  days. 

937— Huckleberry    Roll    Pudding,  or 
RoiV-Poly. 

Make  biscuit  dough  by  the  receipt  at 


./ 


^34 


SAN  liRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


No.  515,  which  is  good  for  the  purpose  as 
it  is,l3ut  if  you  would  have  the  dough  so 
that  it  will  peel  apart  in  flakes  after  cook- 
ing, roll  it  out  thin  on  the  table,  and 
spread  a  half-cup  of  lard  or  butter  upon 
it;  then  fold  it  up  and  roll  out  twice. 
The  last  time  of  rolling  out  cover  the 
sheet  of  dough  with  huckleberries  (or 
other  fruit)  cut  in  two  or  three,  roll  up, 
put  in  pudding  cloth,  tie  the  ends  and 
pin  or  sew  the  middle,  and  either  drop  in 
a  roomy  pot  of  boiling  water  or  cook  m  a 
steamer.  They  cook  in  an  hour  or  little 
more.  Should  be  timed  as  they  are  not 
so  good  if  kept  long  after  they  are  done. 
Dip  in  water  when  taken  up  and  the 
cloth  will  leave  the  pudding  easily  when 
unrolled.  Serve  with  hard  sauce  or 
cream. 


938->Floating  Island. 

It  is  a  piece  of  cake  floating  in  a  bowl 
of  boiled  custard;  the  cake  should  be 
spread  with  fruit  jelly  and  have  a  pile  of 
whipped  cream  on  top.  Sponge  cake 
and  the  varieties  made  out  of  the  same 
mixture  are  the  best  to  use.  Several  other 
trifles  besides  are  called  Floating  Islands. 
Make  two  quarts  of  boiled  custard  and 
let  it  be  ice-cold  for  use.  Make  sponge 
drops  (round  lady-fingers  same  as  No.  4.) 
Spread  with  currant  jelly,  drop  in  the  pan 
01  custard ;  then  serve  m  saucers  or  glasses 
with  plenty  of  custard  and  whipped 
cream.    Costs  one  cent  a  dish. 


939~-Corn  Starch  Jelly. 

Thb  can  be  made  Vv!ry  good,  if  not 
spoiled  by  the  use  of  too  much  lemon  or 
too  much  starch. 

S  cups  water — a  quart  and  a  cup. 

1/^  cups  sugar — 12  ounces. 

I  small  lemon. 

3  heaping  tablespoons  starch~3  ounces. 

Boil  4  cups  water  with  the  sugar  in  it, 
and  juice  of  the  lemon  and  half  the  rind 
cut  in  small  shreds.  Mix  the  starch  with 
the  other  cup,  and  stir  it  into  the  boiling 
syrup.  Let  simmer  about  i^  minutes  to 
become  transparent  and  almost  clear. 
Pour  it  into  custard  cups,  or  any  kind  of 
moulds.  Serve  in  saucers  with  a  s[)oonful 
of  sweetened  cream  whipped  to  froth. 
Can  be  colored  with  burnt  sugar  or  with 


iced  fruit-juice.    Cost :  ij^  qts  12,  cream 
5;  17  cents  for  eighteen  portions. 

They  said  they  would  come  again  and 
they  are  coming.  Telegram  for  Mr. 
Farewell  at  3  o'clock  this  afternoon  ask- 
ing him  to  prepare  a  wedding  breakfast 
for  them  for  to-morrow  at  11 :  they  to  be 
married  in  the  parlor  of  the  hill  cottage 
at  10.  "Simple  and  informal;  no  fuss,*' 
the  Colonel  added  at  the  bottom  of  his 
dispatch ;  they  generally  say  that,  but  are 
wofuUy  disappointed  it  they  don't  find  a 
fuss  bsing  made  about  their  momentous 
proceedings.  This  is  no  way  to  do ;  they 
ought  to  have  given  us  time  to  send  to 
the  city  for  the  ready-made  decorations 
for  the  wedding-cake ;  for  floral  designs ; 
paper  cases  for  confections;  there  is  no 
time  for  anything.  Well,  this  means  that 
somebody  in  this  house  will  have  to  work 
all  night,  or  nearly  all,  and  the  bride's 
cake  will  not  be  worth  a  cent  to  cut  up,  so 
fresh,  scarcely  cold  unless  made  at  once 
and  set  in  the  refrigerator.  Wish  I  knew 
which  is  the  winner  in  that  match,  the 
colonel  or  the  banker's  daughter — sup- 

Eose  a  novelist  could  tell  plain  enough » 
ut  then  it  is  none  of  our  business  ^  Any- 
thing for  a  change;  however,  I'm  glad 
they  chose  this  place  for  their^  breakfast. 
From  the  1 1  o'clock  train  this  morning 
Mr.  Farewell  brought  over  their  Mary 
Jane,  the  one  that  cooks  for  them  in  their 
city  house.  He  said  that  as  but  two 
weeks  of  the  time  now  remains  of  the 
eight  weeks  for  which  I  am  engaged  he 
should  like  his  home  cook  to  stay  in  the 
kitchen  and  try  to  catch  on — I  mean 
take  items,  and  pick  up  ideas  about  cook- 
ing for  the  future  benefit  of  his  family 
and  himself,  if  I  was  willing  as  of  course 
I  am.  Said  she  is  sadly  deficient  in  the 
styles  of  putting  food  on  the  dishes,  does 
not  know  how  to  make  a  good  dish  look 
good,  much  less  how  to  make  a  common 
one  look  better  than  it  is,  and  much 
more.  I  know  whathe  means,  but  he 
could  not  explain,  neither  can  I — it  is  the 
trimming  and  shaping,  flattening  and 
squaring,  the  clean  draining  of  the  fries, 
the  crispness,  the  gloss,  the  color,  the 
garnishing.  Now  I  shall  tell  her  that 
looking  on  is  all  very  well,  but  it  is  not 
equal  to  taking  hold,  and  instead  of  sit- 
ting at  the  door  she  may  take  upon  her- 
self to  pick  u|)  something  to  make  supi)er 
for  the  guests  whilst  I  make  the  wedding- 


COOKING    FOR  PROFIT. 


13^ 


cake. 


940— A  P;cke  -up  Suppe;  fir  Forty. 


Oatmeal  (3  cups  raw  near  3  qts,   7 

cents.) 
Beefsteak  (cooked  20,  small,  2^  lbs  35 

cents,) 
Mutton  chops  (cooked  16,  small,  2  lbs 

30  cents.) 
Cold  meats  (charged  dinner.) 
Biscuits  (made  45 ;  22  cents.) 
Potatoes  (baked  and  saute,  10  cents.) 
Cakes  assorted  (2^  lbs  25  cents.) 
Hpney  in  comb  (3  lbs  38  cents.) 
Milk,  2^  gals  30,  cream  20,  bread  and 

toast  12,  butter,  i^  lbs  30,  cofiee,  tea, 

sugar  23  (115  cents.) 

rotal  $2  82 ;  43  persons ;  6J^  cents  a 

plate. 


941— Weddinci  Cake. 


2  pounds  sugar — 4  cups. 

\Y2  pounds  butter — 3  cups. 

12  eggs. 

2  pounds  flour — 8  cups. 

8  taplespoons  wine ;  same  of  brandy, 

6  nutmegs  gr-'ind  or  grated. 

5  pounds  raisins. 

4  pounds  currants. 

2  pounds  crtron. 

Stone  the  raisins,  wash  and  dry  the 
currants,  cut  citron  small,  mix  ihem  and 
dust  with  a  cup  of  flour. 

Mix  the  flrst  four  ingredients  together 
as  it  for  pound  cake,  add  the  liquors, 
nutmeg,  and  then  the  fruit. 

Line  the  mould  with  buttered  paper, 
and  wrap  another  paper  around  the  out- 
side and  tie  it  with  twine.  Bake  the 
cake  about  three  hours. 


Made  i  large  cake  in  a  6-qt  mDk  pan, 
weighs  14  pounds,  and*i  small  cake  4 
pounds.  Cost:  sugar  @  8,  16;  butter @ 
20,  30;  eggs  15;  flour  @35^,  8;  liquors 
25;  nutmegs  3;  raisms  @  u,  55;  cur- 
rants @  7,  28;  citron  (^  25,  50. 

Total  $2  30  for  18  pounds  or  13  cents 
a  pound  for  material. 


942— Cost  of  Ornam  anted  Cakes. 


Tl'.c    confectioners   and  caterers  fol- 


lowing a  similar  rule  to  the  other  em- 
ployers of  skilled  labor,  charge  for  the  or- 
namentation of  a  cake  about  double  the 
amount  that  they  pay  in  wages  for  the 
time  consumed;  if  a  man  to  whom  they 

§Vj  three  dollars  a  day  consumes  a  whole 
ay  in  the  elaborate  decoration  of  a  wed- 
ding cake  the  charge  of  the  ornamenting 
alone  will  be  about  six  dollars,  and  of  the 
cake  complete  perhaps  ten  dollars.  The 
same  man  may  perhaps  ornament  a  large 
number  of  cakes  at  Christmas  or  New 
Year's  on  each  of  which  he  will  spend 
but  half  an  hour,  and  the  jjrice  will  be 
accordingly.  The  imported  ornaments 
upon  a  fine  cake  may  very  likely  swell 
the  cost  to  twenty-five  or  fifty  dollars. 

Wedding    Breakfast. 

Menu. 

Fresh  Peaches  Sliced. 

Boned  Chicken  with  Truffles. 

Tomatoes  in  mayonaise. 

Ribbon  Sandwiches, 

Lamb  Cutlets,  a  la  Maintenon. 

Potatoes  Baden-Baden. 

Partridge  Souffles  in  Cases. 

Dry  and  Buttered  Toast. 

White  Cofiee. 

Ornamented  Wedding  Cake. 
Delicate  Cake.  Apricot  Ice  Cream. 


The  breakfast  was  set  on  the  long  ta- 
ble in  large  dishes,  family  style,  though 
we  did  not  send  in  all  at  once  and  of 
course  the  table  was  set  out  to  the  best 
advantage  with  the  few  ornamented 
dishes,  glass  and  china  and  a  few  flowers. 
The  marriage  took  place  at  half  past  ten 
and  the  carriages  drove  up  to  the  door  a 
few  minutes  later.  The  two  principals 
in  the  business  took  very  little  lunch  and 
that  of  the  first  division  of  the  menu,  the 
service  froid;  the  bride  cut  the  large  cake 
in  divisions  which  I  had  marked  i)re- 
viously,  to  make  it  easy,  and  gave  away 
the  pieces,  and  it  did  not  crumole  much 
considering  how  newly  made  it  was,  but 
I  had  kept  it  almost  frozen  all  night  that 
it  might  cut  well.  The  hostess  did  up 
the  small  cake,  the  four-pound  one,  and 
put  it  in  one  of  their  traveling  satchels, 
then  they  got  into  the  carriage  and  two  or 
three  others  followed  and  were  driven  to 


136 


SAN  J^RAiVCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


"the  Glen,"  where  they  could  catch  a 
train  at  one  o'clock.  After  they  were 
gone  the  rest  of  the  company  went  back 
to  the  table ;  we  served  the  lunch  in  good 
earnest,  and  they  made  a  meal  of  it,  and 
did  a  little  talking,  too,  I  suppose. 

Cost  of  material : 
Early  peaches,  i  basket 
Boned  truffled  chicken 
Tomatoes  mayonaise 
Ribbon  sandwiches,  30 
Lamb  cutlets,  garnished 
Potatoes 
Souffles  in  cases 
Ornamented  wedding  cakes  with.5 

lbs  icing,  23  lbs  in  all 
Delicate  cake  5  lbs 
Coffee 

Apricot  ice  cream,  2j^  qts 
Toast,  butter,  trimmmgs 


$1  00 

40 

75 
I  90 

12 
I  10 

3  00 

60 

30 

75 

SO 

Total  $1342 

25  persons^  54  cents  a  plate. 

The  repast  was  ordered  for  twenty,  but 
25  persons,  and  probably  several  more, 
made  it  their  midday  meal  and  it  is  fair- 
ly charged  as  ^  above,  the  three-dollar 
cake  included  in  expense  account  with 
the  manager. 


943— Boned  Chicken    with    Truffles. 


Bone  one  fat  young  fowl  and  take  the 
white  meat  of  two  more  and  mince  it  fine 
for  stuffing.  Put  the  minced  chicken  in 
a  saucepan  with  the  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter, and  about  a  third  as  much  bread 
panada  as  there  is  meat ;  add  a  slight  sea- 
soning of  herbs,  salt  and  white  pepper 
and  two  raw  eggs  and  stir  the  whole  over 
the  fire  until  it  is  cooked  to  a  smooth 
paste;  then  put  in  a  small  can  of  truffles 
whole  or  only  the  larger  ones  cut  in  two. 

Stuff  the  boned  chicken  with  the  mix- 
ture, sew  up,  lined  in  a  cloth  in  good  oval 
form,  boil  two  hours  and  press  between 
two  dishes.  When  cold,  brush  over  the 
outside  with  melted  butter,  cut  two  or 
three  truffles  in  shapes  such  as  round 
slices  with  crescents  and  dots  on  each 
side  and  decorate  the  surface  of  the  fowl, 
place  it  on  a  dish  ornamented  with  lemon 
slices  and  parsley  and  keep  cold  until 
wanted.  Then  slice  thinly  and  serve 
cold.    The  truffles  in  the  stuffing  should 


show  as  they  are  sliced  through  in  every 
cut. 

Cost:  3  fowls,  75;  truffles  2  00,  season- 
ings, garnish,  15 ;  4)2  90  for  20  to  25  slices. 


944 — lomatops  in  Iflayanaise. 

Pare  good,  smooth  tomatoes  with  a 
verv  sharp  knife  without  scalding  them 
and  they  will  retain  their  crispness,  which 
scalding  destroys ;  then  slice  each  one  in 
three  or  four.  Lay  three  of  these  slices 
in  a  glass  plate  and  place  a  teaspoon  of 
mayonaise  salad  dressing  (No.  151)  upon 
each.    Serve  very  cold. 

To  serve  these  we  covered  two -large 
dishes  with  shred  lettuce,  set  seven  plates 
of  tomatoes  in  each  one  and  bordered 
them  with  small  lumps  of  ice;  placed 
them  on  table  last  thing  before  the  meal 
began  and  removed  them  early. 


945— Ribbon  Sandwiches. 


Cut  thin  slices  of  the  finest  and  whitest 
bread  of  close  grain  and  newly  baked  and 
remove  the  crust.  Spread  with  potted 
ham  or  tongue,  roll  them  up  and  tie  them 
around  with  narrow  satin  riobon,  making 
a  neat  true-lover's  knot  on  each.  Fold 
napkins  fan-shaped  for  two  dishes  and 
pile  up  the  rolled  sandwiches  in  pyramidal 
torm. 


946— Lamb  Cutlets,  a  la  Maintenon. 


They  are  choice  rib  chops  of  lamb  or 
mutton  the  bones  scraped,  half-cooked 
in  a  pan  to  shrink  them,  seasoned, 
spread  on  one  side  with  a  thick,  white 
sauce,  sprinkled  with  cut  truffles  baked  in 
a  buttered  pan  in  the  upper  part  of  a  hot 
oven  to  get  a  yellow-brown,  served  with 
paper  frills  upon  the  bones.  The  garnish 
for  a  breakfast  dish  may  be  a  border  of 
shapes  of  thin  toast  and  for  dinner  a  bed 
of  peas  or  other  accompaniment.  To 
make  the  sauce,  as  good  a  way  as  any  is 
to  make  a  white  roux  of  four  ounces  but- 
ter and  the  same  of  flour;  and  wh.n  thev 
have  been  stirred  over  the  fire  until  well 
cooked,  add  but  half  quantity  of  liquor 
(either  broth  or  liquor  from  a  can  of 
mushrooms),  which  will  be  about  two 
cups,  and  cook  well  with  constant  stir- 


COOKING  JiOR  PROMT. 


137 


ring.  Season  with  salt  and  white  pepper, 
set  the  sauce  away  to  get  cold,  then  use  it 
as  ab  ve  named,  spreading  it  thickly  on 
the  cutlets  and  smooth  over  with  a  wet 
knife  before  putting  on  the  trfflues. 
Small  triangles  of  thin  toast  are  best  to 
border  a  large  dish  as  these  cutlets  must 
lie  flat  with  the  frilled  ends  outwards. 

Cost :  20  cutlets  60,  truffles  1 00,  sauce, 
etc.,  20;  $1  80. 

Named  for  Madame  de  Maintenon,  a 
lady  of  the  French  court. 


947— Potatoes  a  la  Baden-Baden. 


The  same  as  No.  142;  simmered  in 
butter  first,  then  drained  and  carefully 
baked  to  a  yellow  brown  in  the  oven  and 
sprinkled  with  parsley  and  fine  salt. 

To  serve  them,  fry  a  number  of  small 
lettuce  leaves  in  lard  or  oil  as  you  would 
fry  Saratoga  potatoes.  The  leaves  should 
be  of  heart  lettuce  and  be  shell  shaped. 
Out  of  the  many,  which  take  but  a  few 
minutes  to  fry,  select  the  best,  bronze- 
colored,  dry  and  of  good  shade;  drain 
them  hollow  side  downward  on  a  sheet 
of  paper  spread  on  a  hot  pan.  Serve  the 
potatoes  in  them  set  in  individual  dishes, 
and  handed  to  each  place  as  the  cutlets 
are  being  passed  from  the  large  dish. 
Baden-Baden  is  a  fashionable  watering- 
place. 


948— Partridge  Souffles  in  Cases. 

Roast  three  partridges,  young  guinea 
fowls  or  common  chickens,  pick  off  the 
meat  without  skin  or  tendons,  mince  it 
extremely  fine  and  then  pound  to  a  paste 
and  rub  it  through  a  sieve.  This  is  a 
difficult  matter  to  do  with  any  but  young 
and  tender  partridges  or  chickens  and 
there  ought  to  be  a  stone  tnortar  to  pound 
the  meat  in.  However,  it  can  be  done 
without  by^  taking  precaution  not  to  try 
with  eld  birds.  A  souffle  is  a  puff,  and 
this  mixture  will  not  pufT  if  not  quite  a 
smooth  paste. 

Make  a  thick  butter  sauce  the  same  as 
for  spreading  cutlets  a  la  Maintenon, 
with  mushroom  liquor,  if  convenient. 
Take  i^  cups  of  the  sauce  to  four  cups 
of  the  chicken  paste,  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg  and 
simc  of  lemon  rind,  add  a  spoonful  of 


mushroom  catsup  and  stir  over  the  fire 
until  boiling  hot.  Then  set  away  to  cool. 

Separate  the  whites  and  volks  of  eight 
eggs,  whip  them  both  light,' add  the  yolks 
to  the  mixture  first,  then  the  frothed 
whites.  Put  the  souffle  in  twenty  fancy 
paper  cases,  bake  about  15  minutes,  and 
send  them  in  as  soon  as  they  are  done, 
lor  they  faU  as  they  become  cool  with 
waiting.  Serve  in  the  cases  on  large 
dishes  with  plates  of  buttered  toast  to 
follow. 

Cost:  i^  lbs  selected  partridge  meat 
60,  sauce  10,  eggs,  seasonings  15,  paper 
cases  25 ;  $  r  10  for  20.  Paper  cases  can 
be  bought  of  confectioners  or  made  at 
home.  They  hold  about  as  much  as  a 
patty  or  gem  pan  and  are  of  various 
shapes. 


949— White  Coffee  a   la   Soyer. 

Is  made  with  coffee  that,  instead  of 
being  browned  is  only  baked  to  a  slight 
yellow  color  and  is  not  ground,  or  at 
most  the  berries  are  onl)r  bruised,  and  is 
made  with  one-half  milk  and  one-half 
water.  It  requires  twice  as  much  coffee 
as  the  ordinary. 

For  8  cups  take : 

2  cups  light  baked  coffee  berries. 

4  cups  boiling  water. 

^  cups  boiling  milk. 

The  berries  may  have  been  parched 
before,  but  when  wanted,  heat  them  over 
again  and  throw  them  hot  into  the  boiling 
water.  Close  the  lid  and  let  stand  to 
draw  for  half  an  hour;  then  add  the  boil- 
ing milk  through  a  strainer.  Drop  a  ta- 
blesf>oon  of  whipped  cream  in  each  cup 
as  it  is  carried  in. 


950— Apricot  (ce  Cream 

5  cups  cream. 

2  cups  canned  (or  cooked)  apricots. 

i/^  cups  sugar. 

Pass  the  apricots  without  the  syrup 
through  a  sieve.  Freeze  the  cream  and 
sugar  first  to  guard  against  curdling  by 
the  fruit ;  then  add  the  apricot  pulp  and 
finish  the  freezing. 


951— Four  Thousand   Meals. 


So  that  couple  got  safely  married  and 


I3S 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


went  away;  still  the  number  of  guests  in 
the  house  is  steadily  increasing.  It  seems 
almost  a  pity  there  was  not  a  story  teller 
here  making  a  book  out  of  what  he  saw,  for 
it  will  be  remembered,  those  young  ladies 
from  the  Trulirural  House  never  came 
over  here  to  boaid  until  they  saw  the 
Colonel  sailing  around  with  his  best  girl ; 
and  it  stands  to  reason  that  there  must 
have  been  unmeasured  mischief  m  the 
air,  and  plotting  and  counter  plotting; 
and  alt  that  is  lost.  But  every  man  to  His 
trade,  as  the  saying  is.  The  way  our 
part  of  the  play  comes  in  is  just  this :  we 
have  got  things  down  to  such  a  fine  point 
by  keeping  tally  this  way  that,  after  a  lit- 
tle figuring  in  the  spare  hours  of  the  re- 
maining two  weeks,  we  shall  all  know  ex- 
actly what  it  is  going  to  cost  that  young 
couple  to  live,  in  whichever  style,  wheth- 
er in  a  soup-entree-and-dessert  order  of 
existence  in  a  mansion  on  Euclid  or 
Michigan  Avenue  or  St.  Charles  or  Sac- 
ramento street,  or  on  bread  and  cheese 
and  kisses  a  la  mode  on  laborers'  wages  in 
Smoky  Alley.  Then  we  shall  know  how 
much  Mrs.  Tingee  makes  off  her  board- 
ers and  shall  see  plainly  how  some  people 
managed  to  get  rich  so  quickly  at  the 
New  Orleans  Exposition,  and,  moreover, 
we  shall  know  how  to  go  about  preparing 
a  banquet  for  4,000  people. 

For,  wiih  the  wedding  breakfast  for  a 
finish,  the  bell  has  sounded  the  call  130 
times  and  we  have  served  4,000  meals. 
The  reasons  are  cogent  for  drawing  the 
line  at  this  even  number:  the  stock  of 
groceries  laid  in  on  a  calculation  for  one 
month,  which  did  not  arrive  until  one 
week  was  past,  has  lasted  one  week  over 
a  month  and  is  now  exhausted.  Mar- 
keting is  beginning  to  come  in  from  the 
farms  at  all  sorts  of  irregular  prices ;  ap- 
ples, poultry,  vegetables,  all  getting  cheap 
but  impossible  to  keep  track  of,  and  but- 
ter :and  eggs  correspondingly  advanced ; 
in  short  wo  have  had  a  rare  opportunity, 
it  has  been  well  improved  and  now  the 
favorable  conditions  no  longer  exist. 


952— Review. 


In  keeping  the  foregoing  accounts  of 
'-.est  of  dishes  and  meals  there  has  been 
no  attempt  and  no  wish  to  argue  that  one 
style  of  living  is  better  than  another; 
those  who  must  set  out  cheap  meals  will 


look  at  the  comparative  cost  of  dishes, 
taking  notice  at  the  same  time  of  the 
number  oi  orders  that  can  be  served  from 
them,  and  choose  always  to  make  those 
that  are  least  expensive  while  others  who 
furnish  a  complete  hotel  bill  of  fare  will 
find  an  approximate  figure  to  show  what 
the  expense  ought  to  be.    In  this  matter 
of  meals  and  prices,  too,  instead  of  fic- 
ticiously    changing   and  improving  the 
summer  boarding  house  and  its  facilities 
I  have  studiously  represented  it  as  it  is 
with  the  restrictions  as  to  markets,  tlie 
lack  of  proper  utensils,  the  scarcity  of 
"help,"  and  such  things  as  usually  fur- 
nish excuses  for  a  poor  table,  because  I 
believe  this  was  a  fair  average  of  such 
houses  and  I  did  not  want  a  model  place 
to  set  up  a  pattern  by.    Our  advantages 
lay  in  having  express  facilities  and  in  be- 
ing in  close  proximity  to  a  creamery  and 
a  cheese  factory  which  established  low 
pnces  for  dairy  products  and  at  the  same 
time  caused  the  offerings  to  be  plentiful, 
the  whole  neighborhood  being  engaged 
in  the  milk  business.    This  it  will  be  seen 
was  an  important    item,    and  still  the 
greater  number  of  country  houses  are  as 
well  fixed  as  we  were ;  it  may  be  by  keep- 
ing cows  of  their  own,  and  most  cf  them 
have  far  better  gardens.     In  counting 
the  cost  of  soups  I  have  first  added  to  ihe 
price  of  steaks  and  roasts  the  loss   of 
bones  and  trimmings,  making  meat  that 
costs  II  cents  at  first  rate  at  15  or  20 
cents  a  pound  when  the  net  weight  was 
reaohed,    and    then  have  valued  these 
bones  and  cullings  at  about  2  cents  a 
pound   in  soup;  vegetables,  quenelles, 
eggs,  and  all  such  ingredients  have  been 
duly  allowed  for.    It  did  not  prove  feasi- 
ble to  show  some  things  in  the  wa)r  of 
small  economies  such  as  every  sensible 
cook  puts  in  practice— how  the  cold  rice 
left  from  a  previous  dinner  and  the  can 
of  peaches  opened  but  scarcely  touched, 
for  the    preceding  supper  become  the 
"peaches  a  la  Richelieu"  of  to-day's  din- 
ner; or  how  the  can  of  corn,  too  much 
yesterday,  becomes  the  green  corn  friiiers 
on  a  new  bill.    I'hcrc  has  been  greater 
watchfulness  over  the  waste  ^whilc  this 
record  was  being  kept,  than  would  have 
been  necessary' in  the  ordinary  run  of 
work,  but  otherwise  all  has  been  done 
according    to  common   usage,  and  the 
Eums  total  will  prove  reliable  daia  for 
future  calculations. 


COOKING  JFOR  PROMT. 


i39 


953— Croceres  for  Four    Thousand. 

Bill  at  No.  520 $109  52 

Bought  additional : 

Mushrooms,  4  cans 120 

Shrimps,  2  cans  retail 55 

Lobster,  2  cans 45 

Salad  oil  I  qt i  00 

Wine  I  gt 90 

Brandy  for  cooking 100 

Catsup,  3  bottles 2  00 

Gelatine,  4  packages 80 

Chocolate,  i  lb 40 

Sundry  canned  goods 4  70 

Compressed  yeast 200 

Total $12452 

954 — Yeast  and  Baking  Powder. 


Bought  compressed  yeast,  used  regu- 
larly twice  a  day  5  cents  a  day,  40  days, 
$2  00 

Baking  powder  used  occasionally  cost 
$260 

955— Meat,     Fish    and    Poultry   for 
Four  Thousand. 


Roast  beef  (2  ribs  4  lbs  50  cents.) 

Stuffed  shoulder  mutton,  a  la  Soubise 
(3  lbs  and  trimmings  40  cents.) 

Saute  of  chicken  wich  rissotto  (4  chick- 
ens and  trimmings  no  cents.) 

Kromeskies,  a  la  Venitienne  (16  orders 
32  cents.) 

New  com  20,  string  beans  3,  onions  in 
cream  5,  turnips  3,  rice  4,  potatoes  15 
(50  cents.) 

Cream  curd  pudding  (No.  538  increas- 
ed, 38  cents.) 

Potato  cream  pie  (3  pies  30  cents.) 

Bisque  of  pineapple  ice  cream  (No. 
206  with  twice  the  cream  to  same  fruit ; 
3  qts  frozen  85  cents.) 

Golden  cake  (20  cents.) 

Blackberries  and  apples,  cheese,  nuts, 
pickles  (45  cents.) 

j     Milk  10  qts  30,  cream  3  pts  30,  coffee, 
tea,  sugar,  bread,  butter  42  (102  cents.) 

Total  $7  II :  48 persons,  nearly  15  cents 
a  plate. 


Bought  meat  888  lbs  at  average  12  cents, 
including  expressas^e,  $106  56. 

Bought  fish  232  ibs  at  average  10  cents, 
including  expressage,  $23  20, 

Bought  poultry  93  lbs  @i2,  $11  16. 

Total,  $14092. 

A  fraction  over  3^^  cents  each  person 
each  meal  for  meat,  fish  and  poultry,  and 
discarding  fractions,  about  4^  ounces 
each  or  i  lb  gross  for  4  persons.  Meat 
loses  on  an  average  one-fourth  the  raw 
weight  in  bone,  and  parts  with  one-fourth 
more  to  the  soup  or  gravy  pan  and  in  fat 
and  evaporation  in  cooking;  consequent- 
ly only  about  25^  ounces  is  consumed  by 
each  person  on  an  average. 


Dinner. 

August  14. 

Soup — Consomme  Colbert  (5  qts  24 
eggs  55  cents.) 

Trout  wich  Chili,  Mexican  style  (4  lbs 
and  sauce  50  cents.) 

Potatoes  Chilian. 

Boiled  ham  (2  orders  4  cents.) 


956— Consomme  Colbert. 

Clear  consomme  with  small  vegetables 
and  green  peas  in  it  and  a  poached  egg 
dropped  in  each  plate  when  served. 
Make  the  consomme  same  as  Bruno ise 
or  jardiniere  and  have  the  eg2;s  poached 
nearly  hard,  ready  in  a  pan  of  hoc  water, 
to  dip  up  as  wanted. 

Colbert  was  the  name  of  a  French 
statesman. 


957— Trout  w.ih  Chili,  Mexican  Style. 

The  Mexican  chili  pepper  is  no  stronger 
than  curry  powder.  It  is  deep  red,  and  is 
sometimes  called  sweet  pepper  and  col- 
oring pepper;  i:;  much  used  in  the  South 
and  0/  the  Creoles. 

Split  open  the  fish,  lay  it  white  side  up 
in  a  buttered  baking  pan,  season  wich 
salt,  and  dredge  enough  cniU  pepper  to 
color  it  red;  pour  a  little  broth  if  nec- 
essary to  keep  the  corners  of  the  pan  from 
bummg.  Bake  the  fish  half  an  hour  and 
serve  with  Spanish  sauce  in  the  dish  or 
else  with  veal  gravy  and  little  tomato 
catsup  added,  and  potatoes  in  some  spe- 
cial form  in  the  same  plate. 


958— Potatoes,  Chilian  Style. 

Mashed  potatoes  sliced  cold,  like  cold 


I40 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


mush  to  fry,  the  slices  cut  in.  shapes, 
floured  and  sauted  in  oil  or  drippings. 
Season  the  potatoes  when  mashing  with 
chili  pepper  as  well  as  salt,  and  broth 
but  no  butter;  rather  soft  that  they  may 
cake  together  well.  The  slices  cut  off 
can  be  cut  in  diamonds  or  in  rounds  with 
a  small  cutter. 


959— Stuffed  K!utton,  a  la   Soubise. 

Soubise  always  means  with  onions 
either  white  or  brown.  Take  a  shoulder 
and  bone  it.  Cut  4  slices  of  bread  in  dice 
and  throw  them  in  a  frying  pan ;  put  in 
also  a  good-sized  onion,  cut  up  small,  or 
a  bunch  of  green  onions,  a  spoonful  of 
roast  meat  fat  and  same  of  water  and 
pepper  and  salt  to  season.  Stir  over  the 
fire  till  well  mingled.  Spread  this  stuffing 
over  the  mutton,  roll  up,  and  braise  ten- 
der. 

Take  3  or  4  onions  from  the  saucepan 
where  they  are  cooking  as  a  vegetable  for 
dinner,  mince  and  pass  through  a  strainer 
and  mix  in  sufficient  brown  sauce  or 
gravy. 

Soubise  has  reference  to  a  prince  de 
Soubise  who  made  an  onion  sauce. 


960— Saute  of  Chicken  with  Rissotto. 


Rissotto  is  rice;  this  is  seasoned  the 
Italian  way  with  salt,  cayenne,  minced 
onions,  ham  and  saffron,  which  makes  it 
yellow.  As  saffron  is  not  used  and  not 
wanted  much  in  this  country,  a  little  cur- 
ry serves  as  a  substitute. 

Chop  3  or  4  chickens  into  small  pieces, 
saute  them  in  a  large  frying  pan  and  make 
a  thicken2d  gravy  to  them.  Add  mush- 
rooms if  afforded. 

Fry  some  fat  ham,  minced  onion  in  the 
fat,  httle  curry,  broth  to  make  gravy  and 
put  in  boiled  rice  and  stir  up. 

Dish  rice  at  one  side  of  the  dish  and 
chicken  at  the  other,  or  chicken  in  the 
middle  and  rice  pressed  into  a  patty  pan 
to  give  it  a  shape  and  turned  out  into  the 
dish  of  chicken. 


961— Krcmeskies  a  la  Venitlenne. 

Minced  meat  rolled  in  thin  bacon, 
dipped  in  batter  and  fried  and  ar«-^^ 
with  white  Italian  sauce. 


Take  the  remains  of  cooked  chicken, 
some  of  the  livers  and  hearts  cooked, 
and  small  quantity  of  lean  ham,  enough 
altogether  to  make  two  cups  pressed,  or  a 
pound.  Stir  a  teaspoonful  each  of  butter 
and  flour  together  over  the  fire  and  putin 
a  half  cup  water  or  broth.  Season  rather 
highly  with  pepper,  mushroom  or  wal- 
nut catsup^  thyme  and  grated  lemon  peel, 
add  the  minced  chicken,  which  makes  a 
stiff  sort  of  sausage  meat;  set  it  away  to 
get  cold.  When  cool  enough  make  in 
shape  like  corks  of  champagne  bottles. 
Cut  bacon  slices  as  thin  as  possible ;  roll 
up  the  mince  in  a  slice  of  bacon,  dip  in 
batter  and  fry  light  colored.  Serve  with 
sauce. 


962— White  Italian  Sauce. 


Make  butter  sauce  and  use  mushroom 
liquor  from  the  cans  instead  of  water. 
Let  the  sauce  be  rather  thmner  than  the 
usual  butter  sauce.  Slice  button  mush- 
rooms, about  a  dozen  to  a  pint  of  sauce, 
and  put  in,  and  a  spoonful  of  minced 
parsley.  Same  as  Venetian  sauce  except 
the  lemon  juice. 


963— Corn  in  the  Ear. 


Leave  a  few  of  the  husks  on  the  ears 
and  drop  them  that  way  into  a  boiler  of 
salted  water.  Boil  about  half  an  hour. 
When  to  be  served  take  hold  with  a  clean 
napkin  and  pull  off  husks  and  silk.  Take 
a  knife  and  cut  out  one  row  of  grains  by 
drawing  the  point  down  both  sides ;  then 
send  in  the  ears. 


964 — Potato  Cream  Pie. 


3  large  cups  mashed  potato — a  pound. 

I  cup  sugar — ^4  pound. 

Small  cup  butter— 6  ounces. 

Seggs. 

'%  cup  milk. 

Flavoring  of  some  kind. 

Boil  good  mealy  potatoes  and  mash 
them  through  a  sieve ;  mix  the  butter  in 
while  warm,  then  sugar,  milk  and  flavor- 
ing. Separate  the  eggs  and  beat  both 
yolks  and  whites  guite  light  and  stilf  them 
::r  just  before  baking.  MaKes  three  me- 
.'.iuicri  DJe-s,  open  like  pumpkin  pies.    Sift 


COOKING    ^OR  PROFIT, 


141 


powdered  sugar  over  when  done.  If  you 
use  brandy  or  wine  in  any  dishes  put  J^ 
cup  in  the  above  mixture;  if  not  use 
vanilla  or  nutmeg  and  a  trifle  more  milk. 

965— Go  den  Cake. 


2  cups  sugar — i  pound  light. 

I  cup  butter  54  pound. 

I  cup  water. 

18  yolks — about  I  ^  cups. 

4  teaspoons  bakinej  powder. 

6  cups  flour — 1 V2  pounds. 

This  cake  should  be  made  after  white 
cake  or  icing  has  left  the  yolks  of  eggs  on 
hand.  Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar  and 
water  together  $  mmutes ;  melt  the  butter 
and  beat  it  in,  then  the  p)Owder  and  flour. 
I'.eat  five  minutes  more.  May  be  baked 
in  one  mould  or  in  shallow  pans.  About 
four  pounds  costs  39  cents  or  10  cents  a 
pound. 


966~Fluur  for  Four  Thousand. 


Bought  flour  550  lbs  at  35^ $19  25 

Bought  com  meal,  33  lbs  at  2 66 

Bought  graham  flour,  20  lbs  at  3.        60 


Total $2051 

Averaging  2^  ounces  for  each  person, 
each  meal  at  cost  of  J^  cent  each. 

967— Sugar  for  Four  Thousand. 


Bought  276  lbs  at  8  cents $22  08 

A  little  over  i  ounce  each  person,  each 

meal,  used  for  all  purposes,  and  costing 

about  ^  cent  each. 


968  -Coffee  for  Four  Th.usand. 


Bought  30  lbs  Java  at  28  cents. . .  $8  40 
About  one-fifth  of  a  cent  each  person, 
each  meal;  but  as  this  was  in  summer 
weather,  when  ice-water  and  milk  were 
in  greater  request,  the  amount  will  be  no 
guide  except  under  similar  conditions. 


Dinner 

August  15. 

Soup — cream  of  barley  (7  qts  40  cents.) 

Boiled  whitefish,  shrimp  sauce  (4  lbs 


and  sauce  55  cents.) 

Potatoes  maitre  d'hotel. 

Corned  beef  and  cabbage  (i  lb  and 
cabbage  15  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (flank  braised  tender,  4  lbs 
32  cents.) 

Spring  lamb,  brown  sauce  (7  lbs  80 
cents.) 

Young  pigeon  Die  (ij^  doz  squabs  120, 
trimmings  20,  36  orders  140  cents.) 

Macaroni  a  la  Genoise  (20  orders  12 
cents.) 

Roasted  corn  25,  beets,  4,  summer 
squash  12,  tomatoes  10,  potatoes  15  (71 
cents.) 

Baked  sago  pudding,  lemon  sauce  (30 
orders  with  sauce  36  cents.) 

Sliced  apple  pie  (No.  178,  4  pies  40 
cents.) 

White  Mountain  ice  cream  (3  qts  milk 
to  I  qt  cream,  etc.,  60  cents.) 

Sponge  cake  (common.  No.  975,  24 
cents.) 

Blackberries  and  apples,  nuts,  cheese, 
crackers  pickles  (50  cents.) 

Milk,  cream  60,  coflee,  tea,  sugar, 
bread,  butter  48  (108  cents.) 

Total  $7  58 :  50  persons ;  little  over  15 
cents  a  plate. 


969— Cream  of  Barley  Soap. 


It  b  puree  of  barley  mixed  with  half 
stock  and  hall  milk. 

Boil  2  cups  pearl  barley  in  plenty  of 
water  and  strain  the  water  away  as  it  is  of 
a  dark  color.  Then  put  the  barley  into 
3  quarts  of  milk  and  cook  at  the  back  of 
the  stove  or  set  on  bricks  for  an  hour  or 
more.  Loil  4  quarts  of  stock  with  a  cut- 
up  carroi,  onion,  turnip  and  bunch  of 
paraley  in  it.  Pass  the  barley  and  milk 
through  a  strainer  (fine  or  coarse  accord- 
ing as  you  have  time,  for  it  is  tedious), 
and  mash  the  barley  that  remains  with 
some  stock  to  hasten  the  operation. 
Strain  the  seasoned  stock  into  the  barley 
puree,  keep  hot  without  boiling,  add  salt 
and  white  pepper  and  serve  with  crusts 
in  the  plates.  A  shorter  way  is  to  cook 
the  barley  tender,  mash  it  to  a  paste  and 
put  it  into  the  stock  and  milk  without 
passing  the  barley  through  a  sieve.  In 
that  case  no  crusts  need  be  served  as 
there  will  be  barley  grains  in  the  soup. 


142 


SAN  JPRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


970- Potatoes,  Maitre  d'Hotel. 

Pick  out  the  smallest  new  potatoes, 
scrape  or  pare,  and  boil  them.  Drain 
away  the  water,  put  in  a  little  fresh,  and 
lump  of  butter,  salt  and  a  spoonful  of  vin- 
egar, and  thicken  slightly  with  flour ;  boil 
up  and  lastly  shake  in  a  spoonful  of 
chopped  parsley.  It  is  a  thm,  creamy 
sauce  like  Venetian,  without  mushrooms, 
and  only  enough  to  cover  the  potatoes. 


971— Pigeon  or  Squab    Pie. 

Young  pigeons,  called  squabs  in  this 
country,  are  pigeonneauxini^rench.  The 
price  varies  greatly  with  locality ;  we  paid 
8o  cents  a  dozen.  This  is  a  pie  with 
brown  gravy  instead  of  white  's  in  chick 
en  pie. 

Take  1 8  squabs,  pick,  singe,  9pen  down 
the  back,  draw,  and  divide  in  halves; 
wash  and  dry  them  and  flatten  with  the 
cleaver.  Pepper,  salt  and  flour  them  on 
both  sides.  Melt  J^  pound  of  butter  in 
the  baking  pan  the  pie  is  to  be  made  in, 
lay  in  the  squabs  and  ];)ake  them  light 
brown.  Pour  into  the  pan  about  2  quarts 
of  broth  or  water  and  continue  tne  bak- 
ing. When  done  sufiiciently  thicken  the 
gravy,  add  walnut  catsup  or  a  little  Wor- 
cestershire sauce  and  salt  and  pepper, 
cover  with  a  short  crust  and  bake  twenty 
minutes  longer.  When  the  crust  of  a 
meat  pie  gives  out  bti^fore  the  meal,  bake 
a  thin  crust  by  itself  on  a  baking  pan ;  cut 
it  in  squares  and  use  to  finish  the.  meal. 

972  -Macaroni  a  la  Geno  se. 


6  cups  milk — 3  pints. 

%  cup  sugar. 

Butter  size  of  an  egg. 

4  eggs  or  8  yolks. 

Grated  lemon  rind  or  other  flavor. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  m  it — 
which  prevents  burning — dredge  in  the 
sago,  push  the  kettle  to  the  back  of  the 
stove,  or  set  on  bricks  and  cook  about  % 
hour.  Beat  the  eggs,  mix  all,  bake  in  a 
3  quart  pan,  about  ^  hour  more.  Serve 
with  lemon  syrup  sauce — the  transparent 
sauce  with  lemon  juice  and  rind  in  it. 
Cost :  20  cents  for  over  2  quarts  or  30  or- 
ders. 


975— Conmmon  Sponge  Cake. 

2    cups  granulated   sugar — a    pound 
scant. 
8  eggs.  . 

1  cup  water— J^pmt. 

4  rounded  cups  floui — 18  ounces. 

2  large  teaspoons  baking  powder. 
Separate  ihe  eggs,  the  whites  into  a 

good-sized  bowl,  the  yolks  into  the  mix- 
ing pan.  Put  the  sugar  and  water  with 
the  yolks,  and  beat  up  until  they  are 
light  and  thick.  Mix  the  powder  in  the 
flour  by  sifting  together.  Whip  the 
whites  to  a  very  firm  froth,  and  when 
they  are  ready  stir  the  flour  into  the  yolk 
mixture,  and  mix  in  the  whipped  whites 
last. 
Cost :  24  cents  for  over  3  pounds. 


Macaroni  plain  boiled,  served  with 
Spanish  sauce  or  any  meat  gravy  poured 
first  in  the  dish,  the  macaroni  in  that  and 
a  dredging  of  grated  cheese  on  top. 


973— Roasjing  Ears  Roasted. 


Pull  off  the  outside  husks,  but  leave 
the  ears  well  covered,  throw  them  in  the 
oven  on  the  bottom,  get  up  a  good  heat, 
and  they  will  be  done  in  half  an  hour. 
Pull  off  husks  and  silk,  cut  out  one  row 
to  start  the  eaters  fairly. 


974 -Sago   Custard   Pudding. 

I  heaped  cup  sago — %  pound. 


976— Butter  for  Four  Thousand. 

Bought  13  lots  butter  ranging  25, 
20,  19,  r5,  12  cents ;  average  19  cents- 
lbs  210  at  19,  $39  00. 

Bought  lard  37  lbs  at  14,  $5  18. 

Total,  $45  08. 

Ta  ble  butter  kept  entirely  separate ;  the 
consumption  is  a  fraction  under  %  ounce 
each  person  each  meal ;  when  part  butter 
and  part  lard  is  used  for  cooking  and  the 
whole  butter  and  lard  bill  counted  to- 
gether, the  consumption  for  all  purposes 
averages  a  fraction  under  one  ounce  each 
person  each  meal  and  the  cost  is  i^ 
cents  each. 


977' -Eggs  for  Four  Thousand. 

Bought  142  doz  at  15  cents,  $21  30. 


COOKING    jFOR  profit. 


'43 


That  is  1704  eggs;  ess  than  ^  egg  for 
each  person;  but  as  they  were  ofifered 
only  for  breakfast  it  allowed  one  egg 
each  for  the  one-third  number  and  left 
3.74  eggs  for  the  cooking ;  and  when  be- 
sides that,  the  individuals  who  are  not 
expected  to  want  eggs  were  counted  out, 
it  left  the  usual  2  eggs  apiece  for  proper 
orders. 


978— Potatoes  to   Four  Thou. and. 


fought  16  bushels  ranging  50,  60,  75 
cents. 

Total,  $9  95. 

16  bushels  are  960  pounds;  about  J^ 
lb  each  person  each  meal  at  cost  of  % 
cent  each.  Potatoes  lose  one-third  the 
gross  weight  if  pared  raw. 


g79— Fresh  Vegetables  and  Fruits  for 
Four  Thousand. 


Bought  at  sundry  times  and  some  from 
the  garden  to  the  amount  of  $14  00. 


98O— Canned   Fruits  and  Vegetables 
for  Four  Thousand. 


Bought  vegetables  53  cans $    795 

Bought  fruits,  60  cans n  25 

Mushrooms,  shrimps  and  lobster. 
Scans 220 

Total $21  40 


Dinner 

August  16. 

Soup — consomme  Claremont  (6  qts  36 
cents.) 

Pike,  a  la  Genoise  (6  lbs  gross  and 
sauce  60  cents.) 

Potatoes  French  fried. 

Boiled  corned  tongue  and  cabbage 
(tongue  30,  with  cabbage  35  cents.) 

Roast  guinea  chicken,  currant  jelly  (8 
fowls  2  00.) 

Collops  of  beef,  a  la  Macedoine  (2  lbs 
22,  vegetables  10,  18  orders  32  cents.) 

Epi;Tramme  of  lamb,  Bordelaise  (2  lbs, 
16  orders  24  cents.)' 

Calf's  head  in  batter,  sauce  piquante 


(J^  head  30,  total  16  orders  45  cents.) 

Cut-offcorn  20,  hot  slaw  5,  squash  8, 
tomatoes  10,  potatoes  15  (58  cents.) 

Baked  farina  pudding,  vanilla  sauce  (5 
pts  and  sauce  36  orders  32  cents.) 

Blueberry  shortcake  with  cream  (4 
cakes,  32  orders  with  cream  55  cents.) 

Chocolate  cup  custard  (2  qts,  24  cus- 
tard cups,  20  cents.) 

Butter  sponge  cake  (i  lb  10  cents.) 

Milk,  cream  60,  coffee,  tea,  sugar, 
bread,  butter  52  (112  cents.) 

Total  $7  19 :  50  persons ;  14^  cents  a 
plate. 


981— Consomme    Claremont. 


^  Clear  consomme,  like  ro^'al,  with  crisp 
light  fried  onipns  in  rings  dropped  in  the 
plates.  Having  the  consomme  prepared 
and  well  flavored  with  meat  extract  and 
catsup,  cut  some  onions  in  slices  across 
and  separate  the  slices  into  rings;  throw 
these  into  a  pan  of  flour  and  dust  well; 
then  into  clean  hot  lard,  and  let  fry  yel- 
low and  dry.  Drain  free  from  grease, 
and  put  a  small  proportion  in  each  plate 
as  served.  It  requires  a  little  practice  to 
fry  onions  this  way  successfully  just  as  it 
does  to  fry  Saratoga  chips.  Claremont  is 
the  name  of  a  place  and  a  palace. 


982— Pike,  a  la  Qenoise. 


Place  the  fish  in  the  baking  pan  with- 
out splittmg  open,  but  scored  across 
where  the  portions  are  to  be  taken  off. 
Slice  a  small  carrot,  piece  of  turnip,  an 
onion  and  stalk  of  celery  into  the  pan, 
and  cut  a  slice  of  fat  salt  pork  and  mix 
in.  Add  a  bayleaf,  salt,  pepper  and  a 
pint  of  soup  stock.  Bake  brown  with  fre- 
quent basting  for  over  half  an  hour.  Then 
take  up  the  fish  wi:h  a  fish-slice  carefully 
into  a  dibh.  Pour  off  the  grease  from  the 
baking  pan  and  put  in  a  pint  of  stock 
a^ain,  a  spoonful  of  tomatoes  or  tomato 
catsup  and  }^  cup  wine;  let  boil  up  till 
the  fish  glaze  in  the  pan  is  all  dissolved, 
thicken  slightly  and  strain  for  sauce  to 
the  fish. 


983~Potatoes   Frpnoh-Frle'. 


The  common  way.     Cut  raw  potatoes 


144 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


lengthwise  in  strips  about  the  size  of  a 
little  finger  and  fry  in  a  kettle  of  lard. 

As  fried  potatoes  are  generally  prepared 
in  haste  to  order  it  should  be  remember- 
ed that  they  rise  and  float  in  the  iat  when 
done  and  the  color  they  may  take  on  in- 
stantly in  fat  that  is  too  hot  is  no  sign 
that  they  are  not  still  raw  and  unfit  to 
serve— wait  till  they  float. 


984— Roast  Guin3a   Chicken. 


Young  guinea  fowls  are  more  like  par- 
tridges than  like  common  chickens.  Roast 
them  in  the  usual  way  with  a  chicken 
stuffing,  and  serve  currant  or  cranberry 
jelly  in  small  saucers  or  chips  separately. 

985— Collops   of  Beef,   a    la    Mace* 
doine. 


broth  and  seasonings  and  let  dry  down 
until  glazed.  Serve  cuts  with  Bordelaise 
sauce  in  the  dish  and  ornamen.  with 
shapes  of  fried  bread. 


987~Bordelaise   Sauce. 


^  Collops  are  sinall  steaks.  ^  Almost  any 
piece  of  meat  will  do  for  this  dish  but  the 
pieces  must  be  sliced  thin  and  trimmed 
to  be  nearly  round.  Flatten  them  with 
the  cleaver,  salt  and  pepper  and  flour 
them  on  both  sides. 

Fry  a  minced  onion  in  4  spoonfuls  of 
roast  meat  fat,  and  when  it  begins  to 
color  lay  in  the  collops  and  brown  them. 
Pour  in  a  pint  of  water  or  stock,  little 
Worcestershire  sauce,  salt  and  pepper 
and  let  the  collops  continue  stewing  in 
the  sauce  until  tender,  the  grease  to  be 
skimmed  ofl'as  it  rises.  I 

The  Macedoine  of  vegetables  cannot  j 
be  made  to  advantage  without  good  green 
peas,  either  garden  or  French  canned,  as 
It  is  the  mixture  of  colors  of  vegetables 
that  make.'  the  dish  a  good  one.    Cut 

gieces  of  canot,  turnip  and  other  vegeta- 
les  in  dice  and  boil  them ;  mix  a  cupful 
of  these  with  a  cupful  of  green  peas — as 
many  peas  as  of  tne  others  altogether — 
season  with  salt  and  butter,  or  some 
white  sauce,  dish  up  a  spoonful  of  the 
Macedoine  as  a  border,  and  a  coUop 
glazed  with  its  own  thick  sauce  in  the 
middle. 


It  is  brown  sauce  with  minced  garlic, 
ham,  shalot,  claret,  cayenne  and  lemon 
juice.  Take  a  few  shreds  of  lean  cooked 
ham — only  enough  for  a  flavoring— and 
mince  and  pound  it  fine,  boil  it  in  a  pint  of 
brown  sauce  or  veal  gravy,  or  use  Spanish 
sauce  if  not  too  much  tomatoes  in  it. 
Add  while  boiling  a  bay  leaf,  two  or 
three  cloves  and  a  piece  of  mace  and 
pinch  of  cayenne.  In  another  saucepan 
put  a  tablespoon  of  minced  young  onion 
and  a  clove  of  garlic  crushed  and  minced 
and  a  spoonful  of  oil,  and  stir  over  the 
fire  to  cook.  Strain  the  seasoned  brown 
sauce  into  it,  and  a  cup  of  claret  and  let 
boil  down,  skimming  off  the  oil  and  scum 
as  it  rises,  and  add  lemon  juice  and  a 
spoonful  more  wine  to  brighten  it  by 
causing  more  scum  to  rise.  Bordelaise 
means  of  Bordeaux,  the  part  of  France 
whence  claret  wine  comes. 


988— Calf's  Head    Fried    in    Batter. 

Boil  a  calf's  head  and  save  the  liquor 
for  soup.  Take  out  the  bones,  put  the 
meat  in;  press  between  2  dishes.  A 
calf's  head  generally  requires  one  hour's 
boiling  but  large  ones  may  take  two 
hours. 

When  the  head  is  cold  take  half  and 
cut  in  narrow  slices  about  finger  size,  salt 
and  pepper  them,  dip  in  thin  batter  same 
as  kromeskies  or  fritters  and  fry  light-col- 
ored. Serve  sauce  in  the  dish  and  the 
meat  in  it  but  not  covered. 


986— Epigramme  of  Lamb,  Bordelaise. 

Divide  the  breasts  of  lamb  or  mutton 
in  strips  by  sawing  through  the  bones, 
cook  them  in  a  deep  baking  pan  with 


989— Cut-off  Corn. 

Boil  roasting  ears  half  an  hour;  then 
shave  the  corn  off  the  cob  and  season  it 
the  same  as  canned  com  with  butter,  salt 
and  milk. 


S90— Sauco  Piquante. 

Is  brown  caper  sauce,  having  capers. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


145 


minced  young  onion  and  small  bunch  of 
seasoning  herbs  boiled  in  either  brown 
meat  gravy  or  Spanish  sauce  and  the 
herbs  taken  out  without  straining. 


991— Baked   Farini  Puddirg. 

8  cups  milk — 2  quarts. 

I  heaped  cup  farma— 7  ounces. 

Small  cup  sugar — 6  ounces. 

54  cup  butter— 4  ounces. 

5^ eggs  (or  8  yolks.) 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  m  it,  and 
sprinkle  in  the  farina  dry,  beating  all  the 
while  with  the  wire  and  egg  whisk  as  if 
making  mush.  Let  the  farma  cook  slow- 
ly half  an  hour  or  more,  then  mix  in  the 
butter  and  beaten  eggs.  Serve  with 
sauce.  Cost :  30  cents  for  5  pints  or  35 
to  40  orders. 

992~-Blueberry  Shortcake. 


Average  cost  i  y^  cents  each  person 
each  meal;  giving  half  a  pint  of  milk  and 
a  gill  of  cream  to  each  person — some  of 
it  used  in  the  cooking  and  ice  cream, 
however. 


Made  the  same  way  as  strawberry 
shortcake  and  others  as  at  No.  397.  Pick 
over  the  blueberries,  mix  a  cup  of  sugar 
in  two  quarts,  and  stir  them  about  enough 
to  draw  juice  to  disiolve  the  sugar. 
Spread  on  split  shortcakes,  made  large 
but  thin,  cut  in  eighths  and  serve  with 
cream. 

993  -Chocolate  Cup  Custard. 

Make  same  as  boiled  custard,  No,  1^6, 
and  add  a  tablespoon  of  grated  common 
chocolate.  An  ounce  of  chocolate  is 
sufficient  for  that  quantity  of  custard 
trebled,  and  serves  for  the  orders  of  40 
persons.  The  surplus  chocolate  thai  was 
too  much  for  breakfast,  can  sometimes  be 
utilized  in  this  way.  A  flavoring  of  va- 
nilla improves  it. 

994 — Milk     and     Cream    for    Four 
Thousand. 

Bought  milk,  regular  supply, 

Ao   days,  30  qts.  a  cay, 

800  qts*@  3  cents $2400 

Bought  muk  and  buttermilk 

irregularly  6  weeks  140  qts. 

@  3  cents 4  20 

Bought  cream  102  qts.  @  20 

cents 20  40 

Total $48  60 


995 


Tot  I  Cost  of    Provisions  for 
Four  Itiousand. 


Groceries,    including    canned   goods» 
coffee,  flour,  meal,  yeast,  sugar,  baking 

powder $124  52 

Meat,  fish  and  poultry 140  92 

Milk  and  cream 48  60 

Butter  and  lard 45  08 

Eggs 21  30 

Potatoes 9  95 

Fresh  vegetables  and  fruit 14  00 

Total $40437 

996- To    Save    Twenty     Do.lars    a 
Week. 


The  above  is  a  fraction — about  the 
ninth  of  a  cent  over  10  cents  a  meal 
average,  including  the  extravagance  of 
the  i6-cent  and  17-cent  dinners,  the  ^4- 
cent  wedding  breakfast  and  the  birth  day 
suppers. 

That  is  an  expense  of  30  cents  a  day 
for  each  person,  or  $2.10  a  week,  for  liv- 
ing on  the  fat  of  the  land  and  having 
choice  of  nearly  all  the  desirable  dishes 
with  milk  and  cream  without  stint  and 
first  quality  of  butter,  coffee  and  bread. 
It  does  not  seem  very  high,  not  even  when 
the  additional  expenses  are  added.  Yet 
as  an  incentive  to  carefulness  it  should 
be  borne  m  mind  that  a  saving  of  but 
one  cent  a  meal  on  4,000  will  yield  40 
dollars ;  it  reduced  by  2  cents  80  dollars 
will  be  saved  and  if  the  meals  can  be 
held  down  3  cents,  or  at  7  cents  a  meal 
there  will  be  a  savmg  over  our  figures  of 
120  dollars,  or  for  6  weeks  a  saving  of  20 
dollars  a  week  on  provisions  alone.  This 
is  why  it  pays  to  give  good  wages  to  a 
cook  who  knows  how  and  is  willing^  to 
keep  down  the  expenses  hy  avoiding 
waste  and  profusion.  The  dinners  can 
be  kept  down  to  10  cents  and  breakfasts 
and  suppers  to  6  cents  and  the  average  of 
7  cents  all  around  will  easily  be  main- 
tained; that  is  21  cents  a  day  for  each 
person  or  about  $1  50  a  week.    As  a  rule 


146 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


supper  is  the  cheapest  meal,  breakfast  a 
little  hip;her,  dinner  costs  as  much  as  both 
the  other  meals  put  together ;  where  din- 
ner rules  at  12  cents  breakfast  will  cost  7 
and  supper  5 ;  where  lunch  is  served  and 
a  5  or  6  o'clock  dinner,  the  lunch  is  or 
ought  to  be  as  cheap  as  the  ordi  nary 
supoer. 


Dinner. 


August  17. 

Soup — Potage  Alexandrina  (7  qts  40 
cents.) 

Whitefish  a  la  Cardinal  {4  lbs  and  trim- 
mings, 65  cents.) 

Potato  cruUs. 

Cold  tongue. 

Potato  salad  (10  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (2  ribs  5  lbs  net,  70  cents.) 

Roast  Pork  a  TAnglaise  (6  lbs  and 
dressing,  70  cents.) 

Veal  cutlets  a  la  Maintenon  (20  orders, 
45  cents.) 

Calves  brains,  sauce  remoulade  (6  or- 
ders, 12  cents.) 

Farina  fritters,  lemon  flavor  (cold  pud- 
ding from  yesterday,  say,  10  cents.) 

Fried  carrots  6,  beets  4,  squash  10, 
grated  com  20,  tomatoes  10,  potatoes 
IS  (65  cents.) 

Baked  cabinet  pudding  (meringued 
2j^  qts  30  orders,  35  cents.) 

Pineapple  cream  pie  (2  cans,  5  pies 
open,  thin,  65  cents.) 

Peach  sherbet  (No.  235;  with  can 
peaches  and  2  qts  water,  etc.,  65  cents.) 

Queen  cakes  (No.  1007;  3  lbs  36 
cents.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers,  pickles 
(52  cents.) 

Milk,  cream  60,  coffee,  tea,  bread, 
butter  48  (108  cents.) 

Total,  $7  48;  52  persons;  1454  cents 
a  plate. 


SBT—Polage  Alexandrina. 

It  is  a  vegetable  puree  soup  spotted 
with  a  jardiniere  of  mixed  vegetables 
cooked  separately.  Set  the  strained  soup 
stock  over  the  fire  with  a  cup  of  raw  rice, 
a  quart  of  green  peas,  a  large  turnip, 
squash,  celery,  kohl-rabi,  leaks  and 
onions,  all  in  smaller  quantity  than  the 


peas,  and  a  piece  of  lean  salt  pork. 
Cook  the  vegetables  soft,  then  pass  them, 
the  rice,  and  the  stock  together  through 
a  strainer.    It  is  like  green  peas  soup. 

Prepare  a  small  quantity  of  carrot, 
turnip  and  parsnip,  or  scjuash  or  other 
vegetables  cut  in  small  dice,  and  boiled 
separately,  a  spoonful  of  green  peas  or 
flageolets  or  haricots  verts,  and  mix  in 
and  season  to  taste. 


998 -Whitefish  a  la  Cardinal. 


Lay  the  fsh  open  in  a  baking  pan, 
spread  over  with  lobster  paste  made  the 
same  as  for  lobster  croquettes,  dredge  a 
small  amount  of  cracker  dust  on  top  and 
bake,  basting  once  with  butter.  Serve 
cuts  with  cardinal  sauce  in  the  dish,  and 
some  special  form  of  potatoes. 

999— Cardinal  Sauce. 

Anything  a  la  cardinal  may  be  expected 
to  be  red  or  have  red  ornaments.  Cardi- 
nal red  being  the  color  of  the  robe  worn 
by  the  Cardinals  on  State  occasions. 

Make  butter  sauce  and  make  it  red  or 
at  least  pink  with  pounded  red  lobster 
meat  and  shrimp  passed  through  a  seive, 
add  cayenne  and  lemon  juice  io  this 
sauce.  Lobster  coral — the  roe — is  used 
for  this  purpose  where  it  can  be  obtained. 


1000— Potato  Crulls. 

There  are  small  machines  of  the  apple- 
parer  class,  which  cut  potatoes  in  spiral 
shavings  called  crulls  or  curis.  Fry  these 
in  the  usual  way  of  fried  potatoes,  dram, 
dust  with  fine  salt;  serve  one  with  each 
plate  of  fish.  ♦ 

1001— R:ast  Pork,  a  I'Anglaise. 


Pork  with  sage  and  onions. 

Take  the  bone  out  of  a  shoulder  or  loin 
of  pork.  Mince  a  large  onion,  throw  it 
in  a  frying  pan  with  a  spoonful  of  fat, 
and  stir  it  over  th^  fire ;  put  in  a  table- 
spoonful  of  powdered  sage,  some  salt  and 
pepper.  Spread  the  minced  onion  upon 
the  meat  and  put  some  in  the  cavity 
where  the  bone  was  taken  out;  roll  up, 


COOKING    J^OR  PROFIT. 


W 


tie  with  twine,  roast  in  a  pan  till  well  done. 
Take  up,  pour  cfif  the  fat  and  make  gravy 
in  the  pan  with  water  added  to  the  sea- 
soned glazed  that  remains,  or  else  pour 
brown  sauce  in  and  let  it  boil  up.  Stir 
in  a  tablespoon  of  made  mustard,  and 
strain  the  sauce. 


1002-  Veal  Cu.let?,  a  la  Maintenon. 

Cut  veal  steaks  from  the  best  part, 
(using  the  remaining  pieces  for  stews) 
very  thin  and  about  two  and  a  half  inches 
wide.  Make  a  well  seasoned  mince  like 
that  for  kromeskies.  No.  961 ;  or  chicken 
croquette  mixture.  Spread  the  mince 
on  the  cutlets,  roll  them  into  a  cushion 
shape,  place  close  together  in  a  buttered 
pan,  pour  a  few  spoonfuls  of  seasoned 
broth  and  mmced  mushrooms  and  pars- 
ley in  the  spaces ;  sitt  cracker  dust  on 
top,  and  bake  about  half  an  hour. 

Serve  with  a  brown  sauce  poured  un- 
der and  garnish  with  croutons  and  lemon 
slices  dipped  in  parsley. 


1003— Calves'  3rains  in   Batter,  Re- 
moulade. 


Boil  the  brains,  perhaps  those  saved 
from  one  calf  s  head  will  be  enough  to 
fill  the  bill;  and  when  cold  cut  in  small 
pieces  and  put  them  in  a  dish  of  vinegar 
and  water  with  salt  and  pepper.  When 
to  be  cooked  again  drain  the  pieces,  roll 
in  flour,  then  dip  in  thin  fnlter  batter 
and  drop  into  hot  lard.  Fry  light-color- 
ed and  serve  with  remoulade  sauce. 


1004— Farina  Fritfers. 


Make  farina  cake  or  pudding  and  let  it 
become  cold,  then  slice  it  in  long  but 
narrow  pieces,  dip  in  egg  and  cracker 
meal  and  fry  brown.  Roll  the  fritters  in 
powdered  sugar  and  serve  without  sauce. 
The  sugar  may  be  flavored  by  grating 
lemon  or  orange  rind  into  it,  or  dropping 
vanilla  extract  and  stirring  it  about. 


1005— Fi id  Carrots. 

Cut  in  long  strips,  boil  in  water,  drain. 


salt  well,  shake  about  in  a  pan  of  flour 
and  fry  the  same  as  fried  potatoes. 

1006— Grated  Crn. 


Boil  ears  of  green  corn  and  grate  off 
the  cob  instead  of  cutting  as  for  cut-off" 
corn.  Season  the  grated  corn  with  but- 
ter, salt  and  a  spoonful  or  two  of  cream, 
and  serve  as  a  vegetable  same  as  Summer 
squash. 


1007 -Queen  Cakes. 

Queen  cake  is  the  best  white  cake  with 
sultana  raisins,  citron  and  currant ;  a  fine 
white  fruit  cake. 

Make  the  best  white  cake.  No.  622 ; 
and  add  about  a  cupful  of  each  of  the 
fniits.  The  greenest  new-made  citron 
should  be  chosen  as  it  looks  better  in  the 
cake  than  the  dark  pieces.  Can  be 
baked  in  one  mould,  or  this  way : 

Having  made  the  cake  mixture  put  it 
in  small  muffin  pans  or  gem  pans  to 
bake,  and  frost  the  tops  when  done. 

Costs  a  trifle  more  than  other  kinds, 
chiefly  because  it  takes  more  weight  to 
serve  small  cakes  frosted  to  each  order 
than  in  slices. 


1008— Baked  Cabinet  Pudding. 


It  is  made  with  slices  of  cake  and 
citron  in  small  slips ;  custard  poured  over 
and  baked,  and  then  frosted  on  top  like 
lemon  pie. 

Take  slices  of  cake  of  any  sort,  but 
sponge  cake  is  the  best,  and  enough  to 
half  fill  a  three-quart  pudding  pan. 

Place  one  layer  of  cake  in  the  pan  and 
drop  in  bits  of  butter  and  shreds  of 
citron,  another  layer  on  that  and  butter 
and  citron  again. 

Mix  three  eggs  in  four  cups  of  milk — 
no  sugar  needed — and  flavor  with  grated 
lemon  rind  and  juice.  Pour  it  over  the 
cake  in  the  pan,  cover  with  a  sheet  of 
buttered  paper,  bake  about  half  an  houf . 
Frost  over  with  four  whites  whipped  up 
firm,  and  four  tablespoons  sugar  stirred 
in.    Serve  with  sweetened  cream. 

Costs  twenty-nine  cents  for  four  pints 
without  frosting  or  sauce,  but  it  uses  up 
dry  slices  of  cake  at  full  value.    Brandy 


148 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


is  added   to  this  pudding  when    it  is 
wanted  richer. 


1009— Pineapple  Cream  Pie. 

I  quart  pineapple — 2  cans. 

ijl  cups  sugar — 12  ounces. 

I  cup  cream. 

12  yolks  of  eggs. 

If  fresh  pineapple  grate  it ;  if  cans  save 
the  juice  for  sauces  and  mince  the  fruit 
first  and  then  mash  it,  and  stir  it  over  the 
fire  in  a  saucepan  with  the  sugar  for  a  few 
minutes ;  add  the  cream  and  the  yolks 
well  beaten  and  fill  into  small,  open 
pies,  these  mixtures  being  richer  than 
ordinary  fruits.  The  same  mixture  stir- 
red over  the  fire  after  the  yolks  are  added 
makes  a  rich  pineapple  conserve  for 
spreading  on  layer  cakes  and  filling  tart- 
lets. Use  the  whites  of  eggs  for  frosting 
cabinet  pudding  and  in  the  sherbet. 

Cost,  according  to  pineapple,  probably 
sixty  cents  for  four  pies. 


age  meals. 

Average  breakfast  order : 

Fruit  or  oatmeal 2  ounces 

Beefsteak  or  chop 2 

Ham  and  bacon i 

Eggs  or  omelet,  2  eggs 3 

Potatoes 2 

Roll,  corn  bread,  toast 3 

Sugar I 

Butter I 

Wafiie  or  2  cakes 2 


Total 17  ounces 

And  ^  pint  of  cofiee  or  tea  and  the 
same  of  milk  or  water. 


1010— How  Much  They  Eat. 


To  serve  four  thousand  meals  required 
solid  food  as  follows : 
Flour  and  meal  603  pounds  made 

into  bread  and  pastry  was,  say  800  lbs 
Oatmeal  and  wheat  62  pounds 

made  into  mush  was  say 150  '* 

Rice,  tapioca,  starch,  beans,  28 

pounds  made 85  " 

Meat,  fish  and  poultry 1213  " 

Sugar 276  '* 

Eggs 170  " 

Butter  and  lard 247  " 

Potatoes  960  pounds  less  Yi  by 

parin;4 640  " 

Canned   goods  12 1    average  2 

pounds  solid 242  " 

Green    vegetables    and    fruits, 

about 170  " 

Sundries  in  grocery  bill 2  34  " 

Total 4227  lbs 

That  is  about  1  pound  and  ^  ounce 
to  each  person  each  meal.  Discarding 
the  fractions  and  leaving  the  227  pounds 
to  represent  the  waste  left  on  the  plates, 
we  have  one  pound  of  solid  food  as  the 
reauirement  for  each  person  three  times 
a  day.  We  are  dealing  now  with  aver- 
ages and  these  are  examples  of  the  aver- 


Average  dinner  order : 

Soup  54  plate  with  crackers. . .  4  ozs 

Fish  with  potato  or  bread 3  " 

Roast  meat,  thin  slice i^" 

Entree,  stuffed  chicken  or  veal  25?" 

Vegetables  3  kinds 6   " 

Pastry  or  ice  cream 3   " 

P.  read,  butter,  nuts,  fruit 2  " 

Total 22  ozs 

And  a  pint  of  milk  or  water. 

A  large  proportion  of  the  people  never 
take  soup  m  Summer  and  aboutas  many 
do  not  order  fish,  but  perhaps  take  more 
meat  dishes  and  pastry,  and  a  few  make 
a  meal  principally  of  vegetables. 

Average  supper  order : 

Fruit  or  mush 2  ounces 

Meat  hot  or  cold 2  " 

Roll  and  muffin 3  " 

Baked  potato 3  " 

Butter I  " 

Sugar I  " 

Cake I  " 

Total 13  ounces 

And  a  pint  of  cofiee,  tea  or  milk. 


1011— How  Much  They  Drink. 

To  serve  four  thousand  meals  required : 

Milk  and  cream 1042  quarts 

Cofiee  at  i  lb  for  2  gallons    240     '* 
Tea  at  I  lb  for  s  gtiUcns. .      40     " 

Total 1322  quarts 

Which  is  Vi  quart  each  person  each* 
meal.     While  some  drink  water  exclu- 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


149 


sively  there  are  others  who  take  double 
shares  in  the  milk  which  is  one  of  the 
most  important  items  in  the  menu.  The 
best  reason  that  many  city  people  can 
give  for  spending  the  Summer  at  a  coun- 
try house  is  the  benefit  to  be  derived 
from  an  abundant  supply  of  pure  milk 
and  cream. 


the  vegetables  in  the  ponsomme.  Have 
some  very  small  and  thin  pieces  of  toast 
ready  and  drop  two  or  three  in  each 
plate. 


Dinner. 

August  1 8. 

Soup — Consomme  paysanne  (7  qts  42 
cents.) 

Fried  sunfish,  a  la  Margate  (string  of 
30  panfish,  s  lb  40  cents." 

Potatoes  stuffed. 

Sliced  cucumbers,  potato  salad,  olives 
(20  cents.) 

Boiled  leg  of  mutton,  caper  sauce  (4  lbs  | 
55  cents.) 

Ruast  beef  (loin  4  lbs  52  cents.) 

Chicken  pot  pie  (5  fowls  125,  with 
trimmings,  140  cents.) 

Small  fillecs  of  beef  a  la  Creole  (2  lbs 
and  sauce,  30  cents.) 

Virginia  grated  com  pudding  (25 
cents.) 

Lima  beans  7,  mashed  turnips  4, 
browned  carrots  5,  tomatoes  12,  potatoes 
15  (46  cents.) 

Steamed  cabinet  pudding  (36  orders, 
50  cents.) 

Sweet  potato  pie  (5  pies  43  cents.) 

Vanilla  ice  cream  (3^  qts  75  cents.) 

Cocoanut  macaroons  (same  as  No. 
457 ;  doubled,  26  cents.) 

Apple,  peaches,  nuts,  crackers,  cheese 
(53  cents.) 

Milk,  cream  66,  coffee,  tea,  sugar, 
bread,  butter  53  (irg  cents.) 

Total,  $8  13;  54  persons;  15  cents  a 
plate. 


1013— Fried   Panfish,  a  la  Margate. 

Dip  small  fish  in  flour  and  fry  in  a  pan 
of  hot  lard. 

To  garnish,  have  ready  a  pint  of  young 
green  peas,  fry  them  in  lard  or  clear  but- 
ter, not  too  hot,  until  they  are  dry  but 
very  bright  green,  like  parched  peas  in 
taste.  Shake  them  up  m  a  little  fresh 
butter  and  serve  a  spoonful  around  the 
fish.  Margate  is  a  pleasure  resort  and 
fishing  place. 


1012—Consomme  Paysanne. 


Clear  consomme  with  vegetables  like 
jardiniere  and  Brunoise  but  the  specialty 
of  shred  cabbage  in  addition.  Paysanne 
means  peasant-county  style.  For  the 
vegetables  take  the  smallest  vegetable 
spoon  and  scoop  out  carrots,  squash, 
turnips  of  two  colors,  or  whatever  may  be 
available  in  the  vegetable  line,  size  of 
peas,  boil  them  along  with  a  handful  or 
two  of  cabbage  shred  fine  as  if  for  slaw ; 
draw  away  the  water  when  done,  and  put 


1014— Potatoes  Stuffed. 

Select  medium  potatoes  all  of  one  size 
and  cat  off  the  ends  and  bake.  When 
the  potatoes  are  done  scoop  out_the  in- 
side, mash  and  season,  then  put  it  back 
into  the  shells,  set  them  on  end  in  the 
baking  pan  and  keep  m  the  oven  till 
wanted.  Serve  with  fish  but  on  a  separate 
plate  or  dish. 


1015— Chicken  Pot  Pie,  Country  Style. 

Cut  up  five  fowls  in  joints  and  boil  in 
water  barely  enough  to  cover,  and  time 
according  to  age.  Old  fowls  make  good 
pies  if  allowed  two  or  three  hours  to  stew 
tender.  Add  a  seasoning  of  sa  t  pork 
and  onion,  parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 
When  done  add  milk  to  make  sauce  suf- 
ficient, thicken  till  like  thin  sauce  and 
turn  the  stew  into  a  pan  that  will  go  in 
the  oven.  Make  up  pot  pie  dumpling 
batter  as  elsewhere  directed,  drop  spoon- 
fuls all  over  the  surface  and  bake  twenty 
minutes  or  more. 


1016— Sma  I    Fillets   of    Beef,   a   la 
Creole. 


Small  beefsteak  pieces  sauteed  and 
stewed  tender  and  put  in  tomato  sauce. 
To  saute  the  meat  put  in  the  frying  pan 
first  a  minced  onion  and  piece  of  garlic 
along  with  butter  or  oil,  and  thin  pieces 


^50 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


of  steak  on  top.  When  the  onion  and 
steaks  begin  to  brown,  add  soup  stock  in 
small  quantity  and  put  on  the  lid  and 
keep  it  simmering.  Fill  up  with  tomato 
sauce,  or  Spanish  sauce  with  tomatoes 
added,  just  before  time  to  serve.  Gam 
ish  with  croutons  of  fried  brfead. 


1017— Grated  Corrr  Pudding. 

Grate  cooked  corn  off  the  cob ;  to  a 
quart  add  four  yolks  eggs,  half  cup  of 
milk,  half  cup  of  butter,  salt  and  pmch 
of  white  pepper.  Put  in  a  tin  pan  and 
bake.  Serve  as  a  vegetable,  a  spoonful 
in  a  small  dish. 


1018— Browned  Garrots. 

Steam  or  boil  first ;  put  the  carrots  in  a 
pan  in  the  oven  with  a  spoonful  of  roast 
meat  fat  and  bake  brown.    Dredge  salt. 


1019— Steamed  Cabinet  Puddings. 


Individual;  in  custard  cups. 

Take  as  many  slices  of  cake  as  will  fill 
a  two-quart  pan. 

y^  cup  butter. 

^  cup  citron  shred  fine. 

6  cups  milk. 

8  eggs. 

J^  cup  currant  jelly. 

Spread  the  slices  of  cake  one  side  with 
butter  the  other  with  jelly,  very  tliinly ; 
put  three  or  four  together  cut  in  dice, 
mix  the  shred  citron  with  the  cake  and 
fill  custard  cups  or  deep  muffin  pans. 
Mix  the  egG^s  and  milk  together— no 
sugar  needed— and  pour  over  the  cake, 
press  down  with  a  teaspoon  after  it  has 
soaked  a  short  time,  then  steam  about 
half  an  hour. 

Turn  the  puddings  out  in  saucers  to 
serve,  and  there  ought  to  be  either  a 
spoonful  of  whipped  cream  or  egg  mer- 
ingue on  top  and  the  meringue  browned 
with  a  red  hot  shovel  held  over  it. 


1020— Sliced  Sweet  P^tat)  Pie. 

Steam  a  few  sweet  potatoes  and  let  get 
cold.  Roll  out  four  or  five  pie  crusts, 
slice  the  sweet  potatoes  thin  and  lay  in 


slices  enough  to  a  little  more  than  cover 
the  bottoms.  Strew  in  sugar  enou  :h  t^ 
cover  the  potato  slices,  and  then  half  a 
dozen  bits  of  butter  size  ot  filberts  and  on  j 
blade  of  mace  broken  up  in  each  pie.  Pour 
in  a  quarter  cup  of  wine,  or  brandy  and 
water  and  bake  without  a  top  crust  slowly 
and  dry. 

1021— Cocoanut  Ma  aroons. 


Make  as  at  No.  457 ;  but  use  desiccated 
cocoanut  instead  of  almonds.  When 
you  have  cake  icing  left  over  it  can  be 
used  to  advantage  in  this  way. 


How  V.uch  tD  Serve, 


It  is  needless  to  ofier  Mrs.  Tingee  the 
advice  to  dish  up  light  as  her  failing  is 
in  that  direction  already ;  I  have  seen  her 
serve  portions  to  her  best  boarders  that  I 
should  consider  only  the  scrapings  of  the 
dishes,  and  have  seen  her  boarders,  not 
caring  to  touch  the  blackened  scraps  of 
meat  which  she  set  before  them  for  tea, 
make  the  repast  of  two  thin  slices  of 
baker's  bread  and  butter  and  a  cup  of 
weak  tea  with  apparent  content.  I  can 
only  account  for  their  staying  to  board  at 
such  a  table  by  supposing  that  there  were 
other  reasons  stronger  than  the  love  of 
eating  which  prevented  them  from  ex- 
ercising a  free  choice  and  going  some- 
where else.  But  in  nearly  all  more  open 
and  public  houses  the  failing  is  in  quite 
the  opposite  waj^.  To  hear  the  waiters  in 
many  places  trying  to  cajole  or  bully  the 
cooks  into  dishing  up  two  or  three  pounds 
to  each  person  one  would  think  their  iove 
for  those  they  wait  on  is  stronger  than  a 
brother's,  ana  that  their  scnsiuveness  at 
the  disgrace  of  only  taking  a  man  just 
what  he  can  eat  and  nothing  to^  waste 
ought  to  excite  our  most  sympathetic  con- 
sideration. There  are  young  proprietors 
and  managers,  too,  working  for  popu- 
larity who  make  mistakes  in  this  line  It 
may  be  good  policy  in  some  circumstances 
to  make  a  show  of  that  sort  of  liberality 
which  gives  three  times  as  much  as  the 
average  man  or  woman  consumes;  in 
such  a  case  let  it  be  breads  and  vege- 
tables that  are  condemned  to  be  thrown 
away,  and  always  serve  the  meats  small. 

As  some  have  but  little  idea  of  quantities 


COOKING    JFOR  PROFIT, 


15^ 


in  pounds  and  ounces,  let  us  observe  that 
ten  eggs  are  a  pound  and  two  eggs  are 
three  ounces,  and  enough  for  nearly  every 
person.  If  we  should  set  five  dishes  of 
eggs  each  containing  two  fried,  it  would 
certainly  look  like  a  profuse  allowance, 
yet  there  would  only  be  the  alloted  pound. 
Take  away  a  dish  and  replace  it  with  one 
of  meat  same  weight ;  take  away  another 
and  give  potatoes  or  fried  oysters,  fish, 
or  mush  of  its  weight ;  take  another  and 
give  bread,  and  take  the  fourth  and  bring 
m  its  place  batter  cakes  and  there  is  but 
the  allotted  pound  of  solids  yet,  although 
a  good  and  complete  meal.  These  things 
are  worth  considering  b;:cause  thejr  are 
related  to  the  difficulty  there  is  of  living 
in  this  world,  for  it  is  not  what  we  eat  but 
what  we  waste  that  makes  board  so  high. 
A  man  in  business  ought  to  have  tact 
enough  to  relax  a  rule  in  economy  at  the 
right  time  but  some  have  not.  I  stopped 
somewhere  recently  where  they  only 
served  one  egg  to  a  dish,  with  small 
piece  of  ham.  I  have  forgotten  where  it 
was  but  as  there  is  no  unpleasant  im- 
pression attached  to  the  remembrance  it 
must  have  beeji  a  good  table  with  enough 
of  other  things,  where  nobody  was  dis- 
pleased, and  certainly  at  our  Summer 
house  at  Unitah  Lake,  where  there  was 
no  Lt  ntor  restraint,  about  half  the  orders 
that  '-ame  were  for  one  egg  only,  but  eggs 
are  staple  and  common  and  that  does 
not  excuse  the  mistake  of  old  Mr.  Stick- 
tite  at  his  Union  Depot  Hotel  at  Jimson- 
vale  with  his  asparagus.  When  the 
crowd  of  passengers  looked  over  his  bill 
of  fare  and  snw  "asparagus,"  notprmted 
but  written  in,  they  looked  around  and 
at  each  other  as  if  to  say,  "What  a  lib- 
eral man,"  and  "What  an  excellent  din- 
ner we  shall  have."  But  when  it  was 
brought  in,  three  poor  little  infant  stalks 
counted  without  a  miss  to  each  plate 
the  s.i.timent  changed  to  a  dry  little 
lau^h  and  all  fell  to  finding  fault  in- 
discriminately wiih  everything  on  the 
board.  The  dinner  would  have  been 
well  enoui^h  without  the  asparagus;  it 
was  not  expected;  why  did  he  have  it? 
For  poi;ularity,  or  course ;  to  make  peo- 
ple say  he  was  liberal,  but  he  failed 
through  not  giving  enough ;  it  did  more 
harm  than  good.  So  it  was  at  the  Hotel 
Kaniastic  at  Fantastic  Beach,  when  they 
uud  to  Live  a  i  i.^h-toned  Sunday  dinner 
N.iui  l.u\i;.d  fillet  of  beef  and  cooked  one 


fillet,  foiur  pounds,  for  near  a  hundred 
people.  Your  guests  who  can  afford  to 
pay  three  or  four  dollars  a  day  are  likely 
to  be  aware  of  the  merits  of  the  tender- 
loin, at  least  these  were,  and  everybody 
ordered  it,  so  altogether  it  was  shaved  off 
in  slices  as  thin  as  card  board  and  all  the 
first  half  were  thereby  made  as  mad  as 
high-toned  people  dare  to  get,  the  other 
half  got  none  at  all  and  I  don't  know  which 
end  thought  they  were  the  worst  treated, 
but  probably  the  hotel  lost  custom  enough 
to  have  paid  for  several  fillets.  If  I  were 
giving  spring  chicken  for  breakfast  for 
the  fust  time  in  the  season  notwithstand- 
ing the  two-ounce  rule  in  all  else  I  would 
give  half  a  pound  of  chicken  to  every 
order,  drop  off  all  other  kinds  of  meat  for 
that  meal  and  give  the  other  half  pound 
in  the  best  of  breads  and  sauce  and  trim- 
mings to  the  chicken. 

Dinner. 


August  19. 

Soup— Calf  s  head,  a  la  Portuguaise 
(6  qts  48  cents.) 

Perch,  water  souchet  (6  lbs  gross,  48 
cents.)  ' 

Potatoes  a  la  poulette. 

Boiled  bacon  and  greens  (16  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (2  ribs  short,  4  lbs  52  cents.) 

Roast  lamb,  mint  sauce  (quarter,  7  lbs 
90  cents.) 

Chicken  giblets  saute  with  rice  (16  or- 
ders, 20  cents.) 

Lobster  cutlets,  a  la  Victoria  (12  or- 
ders, 22  cents.) 

Green  corn  pudding  (25  cents.) 

Sweet  potatoes  20,  string  beans  3,  tur- 
nips 3,  squash  8,  tomatoes  6,  potatoes  15 
(55  cents.) 

B;,iled  sago  pudding  (with  sauce  12 
orders,  20  cents.) 

Apple  pie  (5  pies,  40  cents.) 

Lemon  ice  cream  (3^  qts  75  cents.) 

Orange  butter  cake  (2  cakes  i^  lbs  21 
cents.) 

Friit,  nuts,  cheese,  crackers,  pickles 
(52  cents.) 

Milk,  cream  60,  coffee,  tea,  sugar, 
bread,  butter  50  (no  cents.) 

Total,  $6  96;  50  persons;  14  cents  a 
plate. 

1022— Calfs  Head  Soup,  Portuguaise. 

It  is  a  vegetable  soup  with  barley,  and 


1^2 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


calf  s  head  cut  in  dice  in  it  and  a  small 
proportion  of  tomatoes. 


1023— Perch  Water  Souchet. 


A  water  souchet— -called  "souchy"  by 
English  cooks— is  fish  steaks  or  fillets 
stewed  in  a  very  little  water  with  herb 
seasonings  and  served  on  toast  with  some 
of  the  broth  over  the  toast. 

Slice  the  fish  if  large  or  split  and  cut  in 
quarters  if  small,  lay  the  pieces  in  a 
bright  pan  with  a  small  bunch  of  parsley 
and  green  thyme  and  two  or  three  green 
onions ;  add  salt  and  pepper  to  season, 
fill  up  with  water  enough  just  to  cover  the 
fish  and  stew  gently  at  the  side  of  the 
range  about  half  an  hour,  skimming  off  the 
scum  that  rises.  Take  out  the  herbs  and 
•onions  and  serve  the  fish  from  the  pan  on 
slices  of  buttered  toast  moistened  with 
the  fish  liquor. 


or  water.  This  makes  a  stiif  sauce.  Put 
in  the  lobster  paste  and  stir  all  together. 
Season  with  a  light  grating  of  nutmeg, 
salt,  cayenne  and  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 
Set  it  away  in  the  refrigerator.  When 
cold  make  it  in  small  cutlet  shapes,  egg 
and  bread  them,  fry  light  colored  in  k 
kettle  of  lard.  Boil  four  or  five  eggs  hard 
and  quarter  them  lengthwise.  Serve 
tomato  sauce  or  cardinal  sauce  in  the 
dish,  the  lobster  cutlet  in  it,  a  quarter  of 
egg  and  a  crouton  of  fried  bread. 


1024— Potatoes  a  la  Poulette. 


1027--Green  Corn  Pudding. 

Shaved  cooked  com  off  the  cob,  or 
use  canned  com  pounded  to  a  half- 
paste.  To  a  quart  add  one  cup  milk, 
naif  a  cup  butter  and  four  egg^s  and  salt 
j  and  white  pepper  to  season.  Bake  in  a 
puddinsc  pan ;  serve  as  a  vegetable  entree 
m  flat  dishes.  This  can  be  made  much 
richer  if  wanted  so,  with  more  milk  and 
yolks  of  eggs  and  is  a  very  popular  dish. 


Parisienne  potatoes  in  yellow  sauce. 
Steam  or  boil  the  potatoes  without  break- 
ing. Make  butter  sauce,  add  to  it  the 
yolk  of  an  egg,  salt,  .white  pepper  and 
juiceof  half  a  lemon.  Put  the  potatoes 
m  the  sauce ;  serve  with  fish. 


1023— Chicken    Giblefs    Saute,    with 
Rice. 


Cut  the  giblets  in  small  pieces  all  of 
one  size  and  steep  in  cold  water.  Fry  a 
minced  onion  in  ham  or  bacon  fat,  then 
put  in  the  giblets  and  fry  (saute)  them 
Brown.  Put  in  water  lo  nearly  cover, 
season  with  powdered  herbs  or  Worcester- 
shire sauce,  salt  and  pepper,  and  let  stew 
with  a  lid  on  till  quite  tender,  then  skim 
and  thicken  the  sauce  and  serve  with  rice 
in  the  dish  like  a  curry. 


1026— Lobster  Cutlets,  a  la  Victo  ia. 


Take  half  a  can  of  lobster  and  pound 
it  to  a  paste.  Put  in  a  saucepan,  half  a 
cup  butter  and  one  small  cup  flour  and 
stir  them  over  the  fire  and  when  hot  and 
well  mingled,  add  a  cup  of  boiling  broth 


1028— Boiled  Sago  Pudding. 

4  cups  milk. 

2  tablespoons  sugar. 

1  cup  sago. 

Butter  size  of  an  egg. 

2  eggs  or  the  yolks  only. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it,  shake 
in  the  sago  and  keep  it  stirred  up  for  a 
few  minutes,  let  cook  slowly  with  the  lid 
on  for  about  half  an  hour,  set  where  it 
will  not  burn  on  bricks  at  back  of  the 
range.  Then  beat  in  the  butter  and 
eggs.    Serve  with  sauce. 


1029— Work  and  Wages. 

Counting  up  to  the  13th  of  August 
we  only  had  an  average  of  twenty -three 
paying  people  in  the  house  including  the 
owner  and  his  familv.  Mrs.  Tingee  and 
her  two  or  three  girls,  and  a  boy  in  the 
yard  could  take  care  of  that  numbe- 
easily ;  but  it  has  to  be  according  to  style. 
There  is  the  Summerland  House  at  Uni- 
tah  running  half  the  time  with  but  seven- 
ty-five paying  people  and  eighty-five 
"help."  At  this  house  we  are  oetween 
styles  and  have  nine  employes  to  the* 
average  ♦^wenty-three  guests,  and  some- 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


'53 


times  have  ten.  There  is  a  fraction  of  a  \ 
person  somewhere,  perhaps  that  is  the 
Baby,  but  we  will  not  let  fractions  trouble 
us  when  tney  are  but  small,  so  of  the 
four  thousand  meals  consumed  eleven 
hnndred  and  thirty-four  have  gone  to  the 
help  and  the  twenty-three  guests  have 
to  pay  for  them  as  well  as  the  two  thous- 
and eii^ht  hundred  and  ninety-ei.^ht 
meals  for  themselves,  all  at  ten  cents  a 
meal,  discard in.:::^  the  ninth  of  a  cent  frac- 
tion as  usual  ifor  the  sake  of  lucidity. 
Besides  this  co.nes  the  wa^es  paid  for 
carrying  on  the  work  of  the  place  to 
swell  the  expense  account  to  nearly 
donble.  As  most  people  are  sensitive  on 
the  subject  of  the  amount  ot  compensa- 
tion they  can  command,  I  will  not  "give 
away"  anybody  but  will  give  the  sum 
total  for  the  bunch  of  us.  There  was 
one  whom  I  have  reason  to  suppose  took 
his  li^ht  employment  as  the  price  of  his 
board  during  his  Summer  vacation,  and 
cost  the  house  nothing  in  cash ;  another, 
perhaps,  had  his  compensation  contin- 
gent upon  the  amount  of  the  profits ;  two 
of  the  workers  were  hired  by  the  year  at 
country  wa^es,  and  the  girls  who  did  the 
table  waiting  were  at  the  usual  house- 
girl  prices.  The  cook  for  this  short  sea- 
son received  as  much  pay  as  the  chief 
cook  at  the  best  of  the  two  hotels  at  the 
depot  and  a  little  more  than  the  chief 
cook  at  Black's,  which  was  a  fancy  price 
for  this  small  house  to  pay,  yet  neither 
of  those  chief  cooks  would  nave  taken  the 
situation  or  done  the  work  because  it  is 
mixed,  both  meat  and  pastry,  and  be- 
cause it  is  mixed  other  ways;  tor  there 
are  some  things  which  look  natural 
enough  but  which  it  is  impossible  for  a 
limited  and  graded,  bound  and  restricted, 
enthralled  and  restrained  cook  to  do. 
I  don't  know  why  the  French  cooks  sim- 
ply say  it  is  m\\:^os-seebLe  for  them  to 
do  so  and  that  is  all  there  is  of  it — as,  for 
instance,  it  is  quite  possible  for  fishes  to 
fly,  I  have  seen  them  do  it  in  the  tropics, 
but  it  is  impossible  for  the  chief  cook  of 
a  full-grown  hotel  to  clean  fish,  and 
equally  impossible  for  his  second  cook  to 
pass  dirty  dishes*  over  to  tne  next  table, 
however  much  they  may  be  in  his  way  on 
his  own  table, — it  isn't  his  business  to 
gather  up  dishes. 

These  impossibilities  often  cause  em- 
barrassment in  small  houses  where  per- 
haps there  is  not  yard-man  enough  to  go 
droun,  or  where,  it  may  be,  there  is  no 


yard  man  but  the  proprietor  or  his  clerk, 
and  as  they  will  not  clean  the  fish  for  the 
cook  and  the  cook  cannot  cook  it  with- 
out being  cleaned  of  course  there  is 
nothing  for  that  cook  and  his  second  to 
do  and  they  step  out.  The  small  houses 
then  hunt  up  a  woman  cook,  for  they 
are  generally  more  pliable ;  they  either  do 
not  know  of  those  iron-clad  rules  of  the 
kitchen,  or,  knowing  them,  with  the  nat- 
ural mulishness  of  woman  they  choose 
to  do  the  other  way  and  go  right  on 
earning  the  wa2:es.  There  are  said  to  be 
a  few  first-class  female  cooks  getting  as 
high  wages  as  the  same  grade  of  male 
cooks.  Without  the  least  intention  of 
saying  what  ought  to  be  and  only  stating 
facts  the  highest  wages  I  have  ever  known 
a  woman  to  receive  for  cooking  in  a  small 
hotel  both  meat  and  pastry,  was  fifty  dol- 
lars a  month.  There  are  thousand  of 
them  working  in  hotels  and  boarding- 
houses  at  five  dollars  a  week,  whose  work 
is  but  little  above  common  labor.  There 
is  no  doubt  but  there  is  a  demand  for 
skillful,  bill-of-fare,  women  cooks;  such 
can  always  secure  good  situations  with 
sufficient  help  at  about  ten  dollars  a  week 
in  any  part  of  this  country,  board  and 
lodging,  of  course,  in  addition.  It  is  on 
that  figure  I  will  base  future  estimates  of 
the  cost  of  board  in  country  houses. 
In  the  present  instance,  however,  I  have 
the  actualities  to  draw  froni  and  find  that 
the  sum  total  of  wages  paid  for  the  six 
weeks  was  three  hundred  and  twelve  dol- 
lars. 


1030— Laundry  Work. 

The  washing  of  table  cloths  and  nap- 
kins is  an  expense  large  enough  to  change 
the  grade  of  the  house  that  cannot  a.^ord 
it  from  the  one  that  can ;  it  must  be  paid 
for  by  the  boarders  and  consequently  af- 
fects the  price  of  board.  In  such  a  house 
as  the  one  we  write  of,  however,  it  is  not 
practicable  to  make  a  separate  account 
of  it.  Good  hotel  managers  expect  the 
i  money  earned  by  the  laundry  to  pay  its 
I  way  and  pay  for  the  laundry  work  of  the 
house ;  probably  such  was  the  case  here 
and  it  need  not  affect  our  estimates. 


1031— Fuel  and  Light. 

This  item  I  could  not  get  with  perfect 


rS4 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


exactness  but  can  approximate  closely. 
Our  John  has  it  as  part  cf  his  yearly  con- 
tract that  he  shall  in  Winter  provide 
twenty  cords  of  wood  for  the  Summer 
business.  He  claims  that  he  had  this 
Spring  twenty-two  cords,  and  having  but 
seven  cords  left  we  must  have  used  fifteen 
cords  in  six  weeks.  That  includes  the 
laundry  and  dining-room  f res,  and  allow- 
ance has  to  be  made  for  the  wood  being 
at  least  half  of  it  dry  and  decaying  bass- 
wood  that  bums  away  like  paper.  Of 
such  wood  in  six  weeks  we  may  have 
burned  enough  in  the  kitchen  to  be 
equivalent  to  eight  cords  of  sound  wood 
worth  in  the  country  three  dollars  a  cord 
or  twenty-four  dollars. 

The  house  has  consumed  twenty-five 
gallons  of  coal  oil  of  which  the  dming- 
room  and  kitchen  cannot  have  used  more 
than  lo,  or  $2  worth. 


1032-lce, 


Mr.  Farewell  has  contract  with  one  of 
the  neighbors,  by  which  he  hauls  all  the 
ice  he  needs  for  the  season  from  said 
neighbor's  ice-house  for  a  compensation 
of  $15.  All  the  ice  used  for  freezing 
creams  has  been  allowed  for  in  counting 
cost ;  for  this  portion  of  the  season  allow 
for  ice  otherwise  used  $10. 


1033— Total  Cost  of  Board. 


Provisions  for  23  boarders  42  days  $290.70 

Wages  of  employes  6  weeks 312.00 

Provisions  for  employes  42  days     113.67 
Fuel,  light,  ice 36.00 


Total...... $752.37 

This  is  within  a  fraction  of  26  cents  a 
meal  for  the  paying  people  and  is  $5.45 
a  week  each  as  the  actual  cost  of  hrst- 
class  board  and  middle-class  table  ser- 


vice. 


1034— How  Much  Profit? 


This  house  charges  $10  a  week  for 
board  and  lodging,  transient  meals  are 
50  cents  and  therefore  average  half  profit, 
while  there  is  a  margin  on  regular  board- 
ers of  $4.55  a  week  each  and  a  total  of 
$627  63  for  the  six  weeks,  or  over  $100 
a  week  out  of  which  to  pay  the  bed  rooms 


and  rent,  the  laundry  and  chamber  work 
having  already  been  paid  for  in  this 
estimate,  which  includes  the  help  em- 
ployed. The  latter  part  of  the  season  is 
the  best;  there  are  now  in  the  house  40 
boarders  to  11  "help,"  yielding  a  profit 
of  $182  a  week.  If  a  man  can  have  a 
season  of  only  10  weeks  at  that  average 
and  these  prices  he  makes  $1,820  out  of 
a  small  house;  a  sum  large  enough  to 
tempt  many  to  try  the  business.  The 
owner  of  the  place  and  his  family  are 
properly  counted  as  boarders  in  every 
calculation  of  expense,  having  placed  the 
manager  and  housekeeper  in  position  to 
relieve  them  from  any  active  participation. 

If  the  manager  and  housekeeper  were 
to  get  married  and,  with  this  book  for 
their  guide,  were  to  become  the  landlord 
and  landlady  of  the  house  they  would 
have  a  still  better  rate  of  profit  to  expect 
than  the  figures  above,  for  thty  would 
have  in  adcfition  the  salaries  which  they 
now  enjoy,  to  go  a  long  way  towards 
paying  their  rent. 

The  cost  of  sleeping  people  consists 
chiefly  in  the  laundry  work  involved  in 
changing  the  bedding'after  every  sleeper. 
Two  sheets,  a  pillow  slip  and  one  or  two 
towels  are  expected  to^  be  washed  after 
every  departure,  which,  put  out  at 
schedule  rates  would  cost  35  cents  for  a 
bed  that  only  yielded  50  cents.  For 
regular  boarders  the  changes  are  made 
only  twice  or  it  may  be  once  a  week  ex- 
cept towels,  and  reason  is  found  in  that 
for  making  a  difference  in  rates  for  regu- 
lar and  transient.  The  cost  of  laundry 
work  has  also  to  be  reduced  to  the 
smallest  sum  by  having  it  done  at  home. 


Dinnor. 


August  20. 

Soup — Corn  and  tomato  (7  qts  40 
cents.) 

Halibut,  Maryland  style  (4  lbs  50,  trim- 
mings 20,  70  cents.) 

Fried  hominy. 

Boiled  chicken  with  salt  pork  (5  .fowls 
I  25,  pork  12,  and  sauce  140  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (3  ribs  short,  7  lbs  90  cer  ts.) 

Lyonaise  of  liver  with  fried  crusts  (10 
orders,  12  cents.) 

Queen  fritters,  vanilla  sauce  (65  cents.) 

Browned  sweet  potatoes  25,  lima  beans 
6,  com  10,  cabbage  6,  potatoes   13  (60 


COOKING    FOR  PROFIT. 


155 


ents.) 
Enslish  suet  pudding  (29  cents.) 
Peach  pie  (5  pies,  40  cents.) 
Blackberry  meringue  (55  cents.) 
Apples,  nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  condi- 
ments (54  cents.) 

Milk,  cream   66,    coffee,  tea,  sugar, 
bread,  butter  52  (118  cents.) 

Total,  $7  73;  54  persons;  14^^  cents  a 
plate. 

1035— Corn  and  Tomato  Soup. 


One  quart  green  corn  cut  off  the  cob, 
one  quart  tomatoes  chopped  small,  one 
pint  mixed  vegetables  cut  small  in  five 
quarts  seasoned  soup  stock.  Boil  up  and 
season  to  taste. 


1036  -Halibut,  Maryland  Style. 


Halibut  steak  cut  thin,  breaded  in 
com  meal  and  fried  in  a  small  quantity  of 
salt  pork  fat — not  immersed  but  in  a 
frying  pan  and  turned  over  to  brown. 
Serve  a  slice  of  the  dry  fried  salt  pork  on 
top  of  the  fish  and  a  thin  slice  of  fried 
hominy  in  a  separate  dish. 


1037— Fried  Hominy. 


Fine  hominy  made  into  nmsh  same  as 
oatmeal.  Cut  thin  slices  when  cold, 
divide  them  in  diamond  shapes,  flour  on 
both  sides  and  fry  li^ht  colored.  Serve 
with  fish  and  chicken. 


1038— Boiled  Chicken  with  Salt  Poik. 


Boil  5  fowls,  time  according  to  age, 
and  a  j.ound  of  salt  pork  with  them,  and 
make  a  cream  sauce.  Serve  a  joint  of 
fowl  witn  sauce  poured  over  and  a  small 
slice  of  streaked  pork  by  way  of  garnish. 


1039 


Lyv^naise  of  Liver  with 
Crusts. 


Fri.d 


It  is  liver  and  onions  in  brown  sauce. 
Fry  a  cupful  or  more  of  chopped  onions, 
green  ones  are  preferable,  in  roast  meat 
iat  and  throw  in  the  liver  cut  in  small 


blocks;  cover  with  a  lid  and  let  them 
simmer  together  half  an  hour.  Pour  off 
the  grease,  shake  a  basting  spoon  of  flour 
into  the  pan  and  stir  until  the  liver  is 
coated  with  it;  pour  in  soup  stock  or 
water  barely  to  cover;  salt  and  pepper, 
and  let  stew  half  an  hour  longer.  Border 
the  dishes  with  minced  eggs  and  parsley  or 
croutons  or  potato  balls. 


1040— Srowned  Sweet  Potatoes. 


Boil  or  steam  first,  and  then  brown  in 
the  oven;  dredge  salt  and  baste  with 
butter  or  drippings. 


1041'How    Many    Cooks    to     How 
Many  People? 


My  second  used  to  do  up  her  hair  one 
day  with  blue  ribbon  and  the  next  day 
with  pink,  in  the  old  happy  days  five  or 
six  weeks  ago  when  there  was  nobody  in 
the  house,  and  singing  began  and  ended 
the  day ;  now  the  boat  boy  never  comes 
to  turn  the  ice  cream  freezer;  nobody 
has  time  to  help  her  and  she  wears  no 
more  ribbons;  she  has  soured  on  the 
work  and  gets  mad  if  I  call  her  "sec." 
All  hotel  hands  are  working  under  a 
heavy  pressure  now,  at  the  busiest  time 
of  all;  there  is  no  getting  help  when 
every  hand  is  already  at  work  that  can 
be  found.  At  various  times  it  has  fallen 
to  me  to  take  charge  of  a  kitchen  for  a 
fixed  sum  and  pay  all  the  other  hands 
myself,  when  the  fewer  I  had  to  help  me 
the  more  money  I  had  left.  For  such 
times  I  had  a  rule  formulated  that  i 
cook  and  i  helper  are  required  for  25  peo- 
ple, and  I  more  for  every  25  additional, 
and  at  this  late  day  I  find  no  reason  to 
change  the  estimate.  This  has  reference 
only  to  the  work  of  hotels  or  houses  where 
regular  meals  are  prepared  after  the  style 
of  these  present.  ^  There  are  places  where 
one  man  will  go  into  the  woods  and  cook 
for  a  hundred  wood-choppers  or  saw-mill 
hands,  and  carry  his  water  and  split  his 
wood  besides,  but  there  is  little  in  that 
for  a  comparison.  It  is  the  commonest 
possible  mistake  to  suppose  that  because 
there  are  few  people  there  is  but  little 
work;  it  is  the  number  of  dishes  made 
and  not  the  number  of  people  that  makes 


IS6 


SAN  JPRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


the  work.  It  does  not  take  much  longer 
to  make  2  gallons  of  soup  than  i.  If  I 
have  5  sauces  to  make  it  is  immaterial  in. 
point  of  time  whether  they  be  5  cups  or 
K  quarts.  Where  the  number  of  people 
does  make  a  difference  is  in  the  duration 
of  meals,  breakfast  encroaching  upon 
dinner  and  giving  no  time  to  the  one 
cook  to  begin  his  preparations  at  the 
proper  season  for  the  next  meal,  then 
another  has  to  take  hold  of  the  lag- 
ging breakfast  orders  and  give  him  his 
opportunity.  The  time  when  the  pay- 
master reaps  a  temporary  advantage  is 
when  the  25  gradually  swell  to  40.  There 
is  a  disinclination  to  take  on  another 
cook  or  helper,  the  2  are  in  harness  and 
are  making  the  work  go  on,  in  part  from 
the  force  of  habit,  but  it  is  on  a  strain 
and  by  neglecting  the  small  niceties,  by 
failing  to  clean  up,  and  by  letting  thingsgo 
withount  the  finishing  strokes.  It  will  be 
found  a  ^ood  rule  to  count  by,  that  2 
skilled  cooks  and  a  pan-washer  helper 
are  required  to  cook  for  50. 


1042— Puree  a  la  Crecy,  or  Carrot 
Soup. 

Crecy,  an  old  French  battlefield,  after- 
wards turned  into  market  gardens  be- 
came noted  again  for  the  production  of 
the  carrot,  a  vegetable  more  highly  val- 
ued before  the  introduction  of  the  beet 
than  it  is  now,  but  still  one  of  the  main- 
stays of  the  French  cook.  So  persistently 
do  these  old  names  cling  that  but  recently 
a  cook  contributing  a  receipt  to  a  New 
York  journal,  told  his  readers  to  take 
some  Crecy  carrots  and  do  thus  and  so. 
It  is  to  be  hoped  they  got  some. 

To  make  the  soup,  take  soup  stock  and 
boil  carrots  and  corned  beef  in  it  and  a 
few  other  soup  vegetables  for  seasoning. 
Take  out  the  meat  and  pass  the  carrots 
alon:^  with  the  stock  through  a  seive. 
Skim  well,  add  a  small  amount  of  flour 
or  starch  thickening  to  keep  the  puree 
(pulp)  from  settling  to  the  bottom ;  sea- 
son and  serve  like  bean  soup,  with  crusts 
in  the  plate. 


Dinner. 

August  21. 

Soup— Puree  a  la  Crecy  (6  qts  36  cents.) 

Salt  mackerel,  mustard  sauce  (4  fish 
and  sauce,  24  cents.) 

Potatoes  a  nature!. 

Chicken,  a  )a  Bechamel  (5  fowls  and 
sauce,  130  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (rib  ends  5  lbs  45  cents.) 

Stuffed   shoulder   mutton    (4   lbs   50 
cents.) 

Curry  of  veal,  a  la  Calcutta  (reorders, 
I  lb  and  trimmings,  23  cents.) 

Macaroni,  a  la  Creole  (20  orders,  20 
cents.) 

Fried  egg  plant  15,  turnips  4,  corn  10, 
squash  8,  potatoes  12  (40  cents.) 

Astor     House     pudding     (No.     594 
doubled;  2±  orders,  28  cents.) 
'     Covered  lemon  pie  (5  large,  thin,  35 
cents.) 

Frozen   buttermilk   (5   qts  frozen,   25 
cents.) 

Fruit  cake,  jelly  cake  (2  lbs  20  cents.) 

Peaches,  nuts,  cheese,  crackers,  condi- 
ments (50  cents.) 

Milk,  cream  50,    coffee,    tea,  sugar, 
butter,  bread  48  (98  cents.) 

Total,  $6  zv,  49  persons;  13  cents  a 
plate. 


1043— Salt  Mackerel  Boiled. 


There  is  as  much  difference  between 
mackerel  boiled  soft  and  boiled  hard  as 
between  eggs  similarly  cooked.  If  you 
would  have  mackerel  tender,  as  well  as 
of  good  color,  put  it  on  to  cook  in  cold 
water  and  take  it  off  as  soon  as  it  begins 
to  boil.  It  is  best  if  it  can  be  cooked  to 
order,  or  only  as  wanted,  as  it  becomes 
hard  and  curls  out  of  shape  with  stand- 
ing long  in  the  water.  Mackerel  looks 
best  if  cut  across,  not  lengthwise,  each 
fish  making  three  portions.  Dish  the 
skin  side  up  and  a  spoonful  of  melted 
butter  over  it. 


'  Mackerel  put  in  water  to  freshen  will 
hardly  keep  cweet  twelve  hours  unless  ice 
water  be  used  or  the  vessel  set  in  the 
refrigerator.  It  should  remain  in  water 
at  least  twenty-four  hours,  and  be  changed 
once  or  twice.  After  that  if  any  are 
wanted  to  broil,  they  should  be  hung  up 
to  dry  one  meal  ahead. 

1044— Salt  Mackerel  Broiled. 


Divide  the  fish  lengthwise,  and  if  of 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


157 


the  largest  size,  again  into  quarters. 
Broil  over  clear  coals,  or  toast  before  the 
fire  in  the  hinged  wire  broiler,  browning 
the  inside  first.  Serve  the  brown  skin 
side  uppermost,  with  a  spoonful  of  melted 
butter  poured  over.  It  should  cook  in 
five  minutes. 


1045— Wustard  Sauce. 


Make  butter  sauce,  and  mix  with  ti 
made  mustard  enough  to  give  it  a  pale 
yellow  color,  then  let  boil  up  again  for  a 
moment  to  thicken,  but  not  to  separate 
the  butter. 


1046— Potatoes,  au  Naturel. 


Means  that  they  are  plain.  New  pota- 
toes with  the  skins  on,  should  be  steamed 
and  served  in  a  dish  separate  from  the 
fish. 


1047— Chicken,  a  la  Bechamel. 


Chickens  with  cream  sauce.  Boil  the 
fowls  in  salted  water  or  broth,  and  take 
some  of  the  broth,  strain  through  a  nap- 
kin, boil,  and  thicken  with  flour,  then 
beat  in  butter  and  add  cream  or  rich 
milk  and  strain  again. 


1048— Curry  rf  Veal,  a  la  Calcutta. 


The  specialty  of  the  style  is  the  putting 
grated  cocoanut  in  the  stew;  and  yet, 
perhaps,  there  will  be  some  to  say  that 
It  is  no  specialty,  but  common  to  all  cur- 
ries if  properly  made.  There  is  an  old 
sea  steward  settled  down  in  that  haven  of 
rest  for  old  salts,  Nipantuck  Island,  who 
will  talk  by  the  hour  about  the  East 
Indies  and,  as  he  expresses  it,  there  they 
curry  everything  and  put  cocoanut  and 
cocoanut  milk  in  everything. 
Pour  a  little  oil  or  butter  into  a  saucepan, 
throw  in  a  minced  onion,  cut  any  pieces 
of  veal  you  may  have  that  will  not  make 
roast  or  cutlets  into  small  pi.ces  of  one 
size,  put  them  in  with  the  onion,  cover 
with  a  lid  and  let  stew  in  that  way  with- 
out water  until  the  meat  begins  to  brown. 
To  a  pound  of  meat  allow  about  a  tea- 


spoonful  of  curry  powder;  shake  it  about 
in  the  stew,  then  put  in  water  to  barely 
cover  and  cook  half  an  hour  longer. 
Skim  oflf  the  grease  from  one  side.  Add 
a  heaping  tablespoon  of  grated  cocoanut, 
some  S4lt  and  pepper,  cook  a  few  min- 
utes. Serve  with  plam  rice  at  one  end 
of  the  dish  or  as  a  border. 


1049— Macaroni,  a  la  Creole. 


Cook  Yz  pound  of  macaroni,  cut  it  in 
short  pieces,  fry  a  little  garlic  and  onion 
in  oil,  throw  in  a  minced  red  pepper,  add 
a  pint  of  tomato  sauce,  put  in  the  cooked 
macaroni  and  shake  up. 

1050— Egg  Plant  Breaded  and  Fried. 


See  directions  at  No.  125.  Besides 
that  egg-plant  can  be  breaded  in  egg  and 
cracker  dust,  and  fried  by  immersion. 
It  is  not  absolutely  necessary  to  parboil 
the  vegetable,  and  in  places  where  they 
are  short  of  help  they  fry  it  without  that 
preparation. 


1051— Frozen  Buttermilk. 


A  grateful  change  from  ice  cream  in 
hot  weather.  Pat  buttermilk  in  the 
freezer  without  any  addition  and  freeze 
with  rapid  tiurning  to  make  it  foamy,  but 
it  should  not  be  frozen  solid. 

I  have  had  to  add  sugar  before  freezing 
in  some  places  to  suit  peculiar  people, 
but  think  it  spoils  the  buttermilk.  It  is 
a  matter  of  taste,  however. 


1052— Boarding  the  Employes. 

In  all  the  preceding  estimates  and  in 
all  the  bills  of  fare  the  provisions  for  the 
help  have  been  counted  the  same  as  for 
the  guests  and  meals  charged  at  the  same 
cost,  but  the  same  has  not  been  done  in 
regard  to  table  service  and  other  expenies. 
This  seems  the  sound  way  to  count  the 
expense :  when  the  bills  are  to  be  paid  to 
the  butcher  and  grocer  it  makes  no  sort 
of  difference  bv  whom  the  goods  have 
been  consumed.  It  is  but  a  self-decep- 
tion for  any  keeper  or  manager  of  a  resort 
hotel  to  suppose  that  his  help  is  costing 
less — speaking  of  the  gross  cost  of  i.ro- 


158 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


visions— than  his  paying  guests  by  the 
meal  or  in  the  aggregate.  They  eat  the 
same  food  with  the  difference  that  they 
do  not  have  such  a  free  choice  as  the 
guests.  They  .eat  what  is  left  over,  but 
not  the  refuse,  only  that  which  the  cooks 
prepare  in  excess  of  the  demands  of  the 
dinmg  room.  Of  the  three  classes  con- 
stituting the  community  of  a  large  hotel 
the  officers  eating  at  a  separate  table  in  a 
separate  dining  room  are  likely  to  fare 
the  worst  as,  if  the  bill  of  fare  allotted 
them  be  not  satisfactory  they  have  not  the 
opportunities  for  something  supplemen- 
tary which  others  below  them  enjoy.  In 
a  large  hotel  the  early  breakfast  for  the 
help  consists  in  part  of  the  surplus  left 
from  the  last  nights  dinner  with  enough 
of  fried  fresh  meat  and  boiled  potatoes 
to  make  up  the  needed  quantity;  their 
dinner  will  consist  in  part  of  stews  and 
broiled  meats  and  fish  from  the  dining 
room  breakfast  increased  as  before  by 
broiled  or  roast  second-rate  cuts  of  meat 
and  soup  and  a  cheap  pudding.  Allow 
that  such  a  house  is  well-filled  with  guests 
and  there  is  little  left;  or  that  the  cook  is 
one  of  the  few  that  can  estimate  closely 
how  much  to  cook  and  the  board  of  the 
help  may  cost  somewhat  less  than  that  of 
the  guests,  still  the  chances  are  against  it, 
while  in  a  small  house  the  opportunities 
are  such  that  there  is  no  rooni  for  the 
supposition  of  a  difference  unless  it  be  in 
the  helps'  favor. 

In  the  house  of  which  I  write,  I 
have  made  use  of  the  help  to  make 
a  clean  sweep  of  every  meal,  other- 
wise there  must  have  been  mure  to  throw 
away  and  the  estimates  could  not  have 
been  so  close  nor  the  meals  at  once  so 
profuse  and  so  cheap.  For  here  as  in  all 
small  houses^  the  help,  what  few  there 
are,  take  their  meals  immediately  after 
the  guests.  There  is  no  re-warming  pro- 
visions from  a  previous  meal,  it  would  be 
unless,  not  one  of  them  would  even  look 
at  them,  but  if  I  have  broiled  12  beef- 
steaks and  only  8  have  been  taken  in, 
the  help  will  take  the  4.  If  the  guests 
have  taken  to  corn  bread  this  meal  and 
left  the  rolls  the  help  will  eat  rolls;  if  the 
guests  have  taken  a  notion  all  to  eat 
baked  potatoes  then  the  help  will  take 
the  fried  potatoes  that  are  left  or  the 
oatmeal  or  batter  cakes  and  if,  as  is 
more  likely  than  all  there  is  nothing 
whatever  left  and  we  are  j^lad  tv^  see  it  sq. 


then  we  will  fry  a  fev/  eggs.  After  dinner 
the  cook  takes  a  little  survey  and  puts 
away  the  solid  meats  either  for  slicing  for 
supper  or  re-roasting ;  reserves  the  canned 
com  and  peas,  the  tapioca  pudding  if 
enough  for  fritters  next  day,  the  joints  of 
chiclTen  that  will  make  patties  or  cro- 
quettes or  soup,  but  leaves  on  the  board 
the  mutton,  a  la  Bretonne,  the  baked 
beans,  the  stuffed  shoulder  of  mutton, 
the  haricot,  the  coUops  of  beef- with 
tomatoes,  the  stews  in  general,  the  maca- 
roni a  la  Creole,  whatever  of  the  sort 
may  unfortunately  have  been  too  much, 
or  if  none  of  these,  the  help  will  make  a 
good  dinner  of  soup  and  fish  and  clean 
up  the  pans.  With  this  in  view  all  our 
dinners  are  planned  with  a  cheap  meat 
dish. 

The  guests  will  eat  the  Spring  lamb 
and  chicken  clean  and  ask  at  supper  if 
there  is  any  lett  cold,  then  the  help  come 
in  for  the  beef  a  la  mode  Pariseinne,  and 
live  high  too.  If  they  do  not  have  first 
choice  then  they  get  even  between  meals 

j  by  drij^king  iced  milk  while^  the  guests 
^re  obliged  to  get  along  with  iced  water. 

I  Of  course  we  are  all  honest;  would  i:oc 
take  a  feather's  weight  out  of  the  house, 
will  not  even  eat  a  meal  after  we  are  paid 
off;  yet  when  we  are  handling  the  best 
there  is  in  the  house  it  is  but  a  short  dis- 
tance irom  one's  hand  to  one's  mouth ; 
and  does  not  the  cook  himself  know 
where  the  tenderloin  steaks  are  to  be 
found?    Look  at  his  rotund  form. 


1053— Boarding  Gliildren 


Growing  boys  and  girls  consume  at 
least  as  much  food  as  adults,  perhaps 
more.  If  there  is  any  difference  to  be 
made  in  regard  to  children  it  must  be  for 
those  of  too  tender  age  to  come  to  table. 
Hotels  generally  charge  full  price  for 
children  occupying  scats  at  the  first 
table,  that  is,  children  who  take  the  nap- 
kins, the  clean  silver,  goblets  of  ice  water, 
the  newly  filled  cruets,  the  dishes  of 
olives  and  sardines,  the  waiter's  time  at 
the  busy  hour ;  they  are  charL;ed  for  all 
the  extras  that  make  ineals  expensive;  as 
for  the  amount  of  food  they  consume  it 
is  but  of  secondary  importance,  but  it  is 
the  same  as  the  adults  require.  It  is 
often  the  case  that  the  baskets  of  fruit  and 
nuts,  cakes  and  candies  are  untouched 
during  the  whole  dinner  until  the  chil- 


COOKING    JPOR  PROFIT. 


^59 


people     have 
children   will 


drcn  come;  the  grown 
enough  without,  but  the 
make  a  clean  sweep  and  carry  off  what 
they  cannot  eat ;  then  it  is  the  children 
who  make  the  heaviest  drafts  upon  the 
cans  of  milk  and  cream  and  that,  too, 
between  meals.  It  is  good  for  them  and 
all  right,  but  it  ought  to'  be  counted  at 
full  price  if  you  are  going  into  the  busi- 
ness of  boarding  children  on  a  first-class 
scale. 


Dinner 

August  22. 

Soup— Chicken  gumbo  (i  chicken  25, 
okra  25,  7  qts  70  cents.) 

Red  snapper,  a  la  Palatka  {7  lbs  and 
trimmings,  100  cents.) 

Sweet  potatoes  fried  (12  cents.) 

Bacon  and  cabbage  (10  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (flank  4  lbs  48  cents.) 

Roast  chicken,  puree  de  marrons  (8 
chickens  and  trimmings,  220  cents.) 

Beef  and  green  peas,  a  la  Turgee  (2  lbs 
meat  22,  peas  10,  32  cents.) 

Baked  beans  and  pork  {20  cents.) 

Green  com  20,  tomatoes  8,  squash  6, 
beets  4,  potatoes  10  {48  cents.) 

Spanish  puff  fritters  (No.  155  trebled; 
Sds^ared,  40  orders,  45  cents.) 

"Baked  apple  dumplings  (30  orders,  50 
cents.) 

Frozen   buttermilk  6    qts  frozen,    30 
cents.) 

Arabian  cake  (23^  lbs  25  cents.) 

Apples,  peaches  (25  cents.) 

Nuts,  raisins,  cheese,  crackers,  pickles, 
condiments  (56  cents.) 

Milk  36,  cream  30,  butter  20,  bread  12, 
coffee,  tea,  sugar  20  (118  cents.) 

Total,  $9  09;  56  persons;  \t]/i  cents  a 
plate. 


mucilaginous  a  nature  to  meet  with  much 
favor  at  the  North.  It  can  be  bought  in 
cans  like  ever5rthing  else. 

Take  one  fowl,  which  you  can  chop 
into  18  pieces,  and  an  equal  amount  of 
veal  cut  in  similar  pieces  and  fry  (saute) 
them  in  the  usual  Creole  wa^  with  oil  or 
clear  butter,  with  a  large  minced  onion 
and  a  leak  and  piece  of  carrot  and  turnip 
cut  m  dice,  and  if  you  use  green  okra 
from  the  garden  slice  the  pods  crosswise 
and  let  simmer  with  the  meat.  When  the 
contents  of  the  saucepan  begin  to  brown 
add  4  or  5  quarts  of  soup  stock. 

If  canned  okra  be  used,  fry  the  chicken 
and  veal  fiist  then  put  in  i  or  2  cans  and 
fill  up  with  stock ;  the  okra  thickens  the 
soup  and  the  amount  to  be  used  is 
optional. 

Tie  up  bouquet  of  herb,  thyme,  pars- 
ley, one  bay  leaf  and  6  or  8  cloves — and 
drop  it  in  the  soup,  also  a  pod  of  red 
pepper  minced,  and  salt  sufficient.  Boil 
until  the  pieces  of  chicken  are  tender, 
take  out  the  bunch  of  herbs;  have  a 
small  saucepan  of  boiled  rice  ready  at 
hand,  serve  a  spoonful  of  rice  in  each 
plate  and  fill  up  with  soup. 


1055— Red    Snapper,    a   la   Palatka 


1054 — Chicken  Gumbo  Soup. 

The  several  sorts  of  gumbo  soup  are 
all  named  so  from  being  made  with  okra 
pods,  called  gumbo  in  the  South,  and 
used  both  green  and  in  a  dried  and  pow- 
dered state  called  gumbo  file.  This 
green  Dowder,  a  few  bay  leaves  and 
bundles  of  sassafras  root  are  offered  for 
sale  by  Indians  in  the  New  Orleans  mar- 
kets and  seems  to  constitute  their  entire 
stock  in  trade.    Okra  or  gumbo,  is  of  too 


First  make  a  sauce  of  the  head  of  the 
fish,  then  bake  the  sliced  fish  in  it.  It  is 
a  court-bouillon  without  wine.  Split  the 
head,  put  it  to  boil  in  3  or  4  pints  of 
water  with  a  few  green  onions  cut  small 
and  a  pod  of  red  pepper.  When  it  has 
boiled  a  short  time  stir  it  about  until  it 
falls  to  pieces,  making  the  liquor  thick 
like  soup.  Lay  the  slices  in  a  buttered 
pan  strewed  with  finely  minced  shalots, 
dredge  salt,  scatter  chopped  parsley 
over;  strain  the  fish  sauce  into  the  pan, 
bake  until  it  is  half  evaporated  and  serve 
the  remainder  as  sauce  with  each  slice. 


1056— Fried  Sweet  Potatoes. 

They  can  be  fried  raw,  or  Steamed  and 
then  sliced  raw  and  fried ;  are  good  either 
way  if  carefully  cooked  in  lard  not  too 
hct,  but  a  little  better  if  cooked  be- 
fore frying.  Cut  them  in  slices  an  eighth 
of  an  inch  thick  and  full  size  of  the 
potato.    Serve  with  fish  or  as  a  vegetable. 


T.    -:    AJUH4-'^t^^ 


tCo 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


1057— Roast  Chicken,  Puree  de  Mar- 
rons. 


The  words  mean  chicken  stuffed  with 
chestnuts— mashed  chestnuts — the  dish 
in  reality  is  chicken  stuffed  with  sweet 
potatoes.  Good  sweet  potatoes  are  very 
much  like  chestnuts  in  taste.  Mash  and 
season  well  with  butter  and  salt  and 
pepper,  stuff  the  fowls  not  too  solid  and 
roast  as  usual. 


1058-Beef 


and   Green 
Turque. 


Peas,     a  la 


Take  any  small  pieces  of  beef  such*  as 
the  ends  of  porter-house  steaks,  or  the 
shoulder  cap,  cut  all  to  one  size,  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  fat  or  butter 
enough  to  grease  the  bottom,  and  a  chop-  j 
ped  onion,  sprig  of  thyme  and  parsley ; 
let  it  fry  a  while  without  any  water  and 
stir  frequently.  When  it  begins  to  color, 
add  water  to  barely  cover  and  a  pint  of 
green  peas  to  every  pound  of  meat, 
btew  together  until  the  meat  is  tender ; 
season  with  salt  and  pepper.  It  will  be 
sufficiently  thickened  and  will  be  light- 
brown.  Serve  in  flat  dishes  and  garnish 
^with  fried  crusts  cut  in  crescents,  dipped 
in  bright  gravy  and  sprinkled  with  minced 
yolk  of  eggs. 

1059— Arabian  Cake— Biscoscha. 


There  are  several  grades  and  varieties 
of  sponge  cake  to  be  found  in  this  book, 
all  good  in  their  place,  yet  the  one  I 
used  to  regard  the  chief  and  is  so  put 
forward  in  the  American  Pastry  Cook  had 
nearly  been  set  aside  here  because  the 
boys  regard  it  as  laborious  and  some- 
times fail  with  it  in  warm  weather,  until 
on  a  recent  occasion  I  found  at  an  "Ori- 
ental Cafe" — the  Turks  who  kept  the  in- 
stitution were  making  a  specialty  of 
"Arabian  cake,"  selling  considerable 
quantities  to  the  curious  passers-by  and 
kept  a  Turkish  woman  cook  (youn?:,  and 
a  real  Zuleika,  by  the  way)  busy  all  day 
making  and  baking  it.  As  I  carry  with 
me  the  "Open  Sesame!"  to  all  the 
kitchens  in  the  land,  I  proceeded  to  in- 
vestigate and  found  it  to  be  neither  more 
nor  less  except  the  substitution  of  starch 
for  flour,  than  our  old    favorite  Savoy 


cake — fine  sponge  cake  made  by  beating 
the  eggs  and  sugar  together  without 
separating  the  whites  and  yolks,  the  way 
alhided  to  at  Nos.  279  and  280  and  the 
note.  These  Turks  beat  the  mixture 
about  an  hour,  but  in  rather  a  sleepy  sort 
of  way  and  with  frequent  relays,  for  Ali, 
Arabi  and  Raphael  all  had  to  come  in 
turn  and  work  till  their  oriental  arms  gave 
out.  Some  who  read  this  will  be  in- 
terested in  the  fact  that  this  notable  cook 
from  Constantinople  made  them  always 
stir  the  cake  one  way  just  like  American 
home  folks  do.    This  is  the  cake : 

I  pound  ,fine  granulated  sugar  (light 
weight,) 
12  eggs. 

y^  pound  of  starch  (or  flour  if  for  Savoy 
cake.) 
Vanilla  to  flavor. 

Have  everything  cold  to  begin  with ; 
put  the  eggs  and  sugar  together  m  a  deep 
bowl  or  round-bottorned  pan  or  candy 
kettle,  and  beat  vigorously  with  a  bunch 
of  wire  half  an  hour  by  the  clock. 

It  should  by  that  time  be  twice  or  thrice 
the  volume  it  was  at  the  beginning.  Add 
flavoring  and  the  flour  or  starch.  Do 
not  beat  after  that  is  in  but  stir  around 
only  enough  to  fairly  mix  it  out  of  sight. 
Bake  in  a  deep  turban-shaped  mold, 
slightly  oiled  before  the  cake  is  put  in. 

A  large  cake  of  this  sort  will  gen- 
erally be  done  in  half  an  hour.  Our 
Turkish  woman  carried  a  long  straw  in 
her  eai — ^just  where  a  bookkeeper  carries 
his  pen — to  try  her  cakes  with. 

1060 -Meals  to:  Ten  or  Fifteen  Cents. 


If  it  be  true,  as  our  figures  seem  to 
prove,  that  a  pound  of  food  and  a  pint 
of  drink  are  the  average  requirements  for  a 
full  meal,  then  if  an  eating-house  keeper  , 
offering  meals  for  10  cents  could  induce 
his  customers  to  take  a  pound  of  bread, 
3  cents,  a  pound  of  potatoes,  i  cent,  a 
pound  of  mush,  i  cent  and  3  cups  of 
milk,  3  cents,  for  the  three  meals  of  one 
day  his  outlay  would  be  8  cents  and  his 
profit  22  cents;  whereas  if  he  should  give 
a  pound  of  meat,  10  cents,  a  pound  of 
pie,  10  cents  and  a  pound  of  syrup,  but- 
er  and  batter  cakes  on  one  plate  10 
cents,  for  the  three  meals  of  one  day,  he 
would  have  furnished  no  more  than  the 
average  man  could  eat,  would  not  have 


COOKING  FOR  PROMT, 


t6t 


given  a  full  meal  and  yet  would  have 
nothing  left  for  profit.  It  is  by  striking  a 
medium  between  these  and  not  neces- 
sarily by  using  stuff  that  is  unfit  to  eat 
that  some  men  manage  in  every  large 
city  to  sell  meals  for  lo  cents  and  make 
a  profit.  "Steak,  bread,  butter  and 
potatoes,  lo  cents,"  is  what  the  sign 
boards  announce.  A  pound  of  8-cent 
meat,  a  pound  of  potatoes,  i  cent,  a 
pound  of  bread,  3  cents— 3  pounds  for 
the  three  meals  of  one  day  costing  12 
cents  out  of  30— add  3  pats  of  butter  Yo. 
ounce  each — the  regular  restaurant  size 
— 3  c.nts  more,  and  the  eating-house 
keeper  gives  15  cents  and  receives  30 
cents,  serves  300  meals  a  day  and  has  15 
dollars  a  day  margin  out  of  which  to  pay 
his  help,  rent  and  wear  and  tear,  etc., 
could  afford  even  to  add  3  cups  of  coffee 
to  his  sign-board  inducements,  while 
those  who  offer  meals  at  15  cents  might 
afford  to  set  a  sumptuous  table.  There 
are  hundreds  of  such  places  in  operation  : 
we  are  only  seeking  to  know  how  they 
can  do  as  they  do.  San  Francisco,  years 
ago,  was  talked  about  the  world  over  as 
much  on  account  of  her  having  houses 
where  a  good  meal  could  be  obtained  for 
15  cents  as  for  being  the  chief  city  of  the 
Golden  State. 


1061— Country  Board  at  Five  Dollars. 


It  was  mentioned  incidentally  at  the 
beginning  of  this  book  that  Mrs.  Tingee 
keeps  boarders  at  $3.50  a  week,  having 
lately  had  to  make  a  reduction  from  her 
former  price  of  $4,  to  meet  the  demands 
of  her  boarders  and  the  stringency  of  the 
times.  Let  us  see  how  she  does  it.  Our 
emals  in  this  small  country  house  up  to 
the  i2th  of  August,  counting  the  small 
family  meals  at  5  or  6  cents  each  person 
and  the  more  profuse  hotel  dinners  at 
from  10  to  16  cents,  averaged  10  cents 
each  meal  each  person.  Suppose  Mrs. 
Tingee  allows  her  meals  to  cost  10  cents, 
either  through  allowing  some  things  to  go 
to  waste,  or  through  want  of  skill  to  make 
good  dishes  out  of  cheap  materials,  or 
through  depending  too  much  on  meat 
and  butter  to  make  up  her  table,  then 
her  boarders  cost  her  $2.10  a  week  each 
and  she  has  $1.40  each  as  a  margin  to 
meet  her  other  expenses  and  pay  herself; 
if  she  has  20  day  boarders  that  leaves  her 
$28  a  week. 


She  will  do  most  of  the  cooking  herself; 
she  has  2  girls,  and  a  boy  in  the  yard, 
whose  wages  average  $2  a  week  each,  and 
their  meals  $2  a  week  more,  making  $12, 
leaving  $16  a  week  for  Mrs.  Tingee,  but 
out  of  that  she  must  pay  about  $4  for  fuel, 
light,  ice  and  incidentals,  and  she  has  for 
herself  about  $50  a  month. 

Now,  she  has  house  rent  to  pay  and  the 
house  she  occupies  costs  her  $30  a  month 
but  it  does  not  properly  come  within  our 
scope,  as  her  business  is  in  taking 
day  boarders  and  letting  out  rooms 
enough  to  pay  the  rent  of  the  whole 
house.  The  only  time  that  she  needs 
and  seeks  a  sympathizing  ear  is  when  a 
young  couple  or  two  gentlemen  who 
have  Deen  paying  a  good  price  for  her  two 
best  rooms  have  moved  out  and  left  her  in 
fear  of  having  little  or  no  rent  coming  in. 

I  So  that,  if  she  sets  as  good  a  table  as  we 
have  been  setting  here  and  keeps  her  20 
boarders  she  still  is  able  to  appear  very 

I  respectably  and  send  her  two  children  to 

I  a  good  school.  In  reality,  however,  Mrs. 
Tingee  does  not  set  any  such  table.  If 
she  would  she  could  set  such   meals  as 

I  we  have  shown  in  the  divisions  of  this 
book  before  the  first  birthday  supper  at 
an  average  cost  of  about  7  cents  a  plate, 
and,  giving  a  sufficiency,  could  keep 
her  full  quota  of  20  boarders.  There  is  a 
defect  in  her  method,  however,  which 
never  allows  her  full  success  or  a  full 
house,  for  while  a  pound  of  food  and  a 
pint  of  drink  are  required  on  an  average 
to  make  a  full  meal,  Mrs.  Tingee  devotes 
her  ingenuities  to  make  her  board^srs  get 
along  with  half  a  pound,  and  regards 
three-quarters  as  a  piece  of  extravagance 
only  to  be  indulged  in  on  Sundays.  In 
conseguence  her  boarders,  not  being  well 
fed,  piece  out  by  buying  apples,  peanuts, 
candy,  cakes  and  beer,  and  find  when 
they  count  up  at  the  end  of  the  week  that 
this  sort  of  desultory  boarding  around  has 
cost  them  more  than  it  would  to  board  at 
a  good  hotel,  and  all  who  are  not  bound 
in  some  way,  leave  her  and  she  has  but 
10  whom  she  can  depend  on  to  stay  and 
a  transient  customer  now  and  then.  She 
does  not  allow  the  provisions  for  these  to 
cost  more  than  5  cents  a  meal,  15  cents  a 
day;  $1.05  a  week,  or  $10.50  a  week 
total,  for  which  at  $3.50  each  she  re- 
ceives $35.  This  leaves  her  $24.50  in- 
stead of  $28  as  under  the  other  calcula- 
tion and  as  tne  work  is  less  it  is  a  greater 
proportionate  profit.     The  great  difiei- 


j62 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


ence  in  the  two  methods,  is  that  the  latter 
will  not  stand  the  test  of  competition. 
The  landlord  and  his  wife  are  boarding 
out  the  rent;  the  retail  merchant  and 
wife  board  there  because  Mrs.  Tingee 
trades  with  him;  the  photographer  has 
his  gallery  next  door  and  his  wife  finds 
better  employment  retouching  pictures 
for  him  than  she  would  keeping  house,so 
they  board  there,  otherwise  Mrs.  Tingee 
would  have  no  boarders  at  all,  poor  wo- 
man. 

It  chanced  some  two  or  three  years  ago, 
I  picked  up  a  brief  editorial  article  in  an 
unexpected  quarter,  considering  the  argu- 
ment it  contained,  for  it  was  the  New 
York  Hotel  Reporter,  that  said  the  great 
want  of  the  people  of  moderate  means  of 
New  York  and  all  large  cities  is  good 
country  board  for  the  Summer  months  at 
about  $5  a  week— that  is  for  board  and 
lodgmg.    Well,  it  would  seem  there  are 
plenty  of  places  offering  board  at  that 
price ;  it  may  be  they  do  not  meet  the  re- 
quirements of  the  city  customers.    In  a 
railroad  guide  book  I  read  of  one  lake  n 
the  State  of  New  York,  where  there  are  8 
or  10  hotels  but  400  boarding  houses ;  no 
doubt  but  there  are  all  grades  and  prices 
but  still    something    may  be    wanting. 
Nearly  all  the  well-to-do  inhabitants  of 
New  Orleans  and  other  southern  cities 
leave  their  homes  every  Summer  for  a 
sojourn  at  some  country  place  or  at  the 
seaside.  At Biloxi, Pass  Christian,  South 
Pass,  there  are  houses  which  rent  for  from 
$200  to  $300  or  $350  for  the  Summer  sea- 
son to  be  kept  as  boarding  Louses  and  re- 
main closed  all  the  rest  of  the  year.      In 
the  New  Orleans  papers  I  see  an  adver- 
tisement which  reads  well,  it  is  of  a  Sum- 
mer boarding  house  at  Gobegic  Ferry,  on  1 
the  Topinabee,  branch  of  the  Tchaupi-  i 
toulas  river,  easy  to  find  because  ex-! 
actly  90  miles  from  New   Orleans,   and 
700  feet  above  sea  level,  where  there  is  1 
plenty  of  milk,  eggs,  butterand  fruit  and  i 
vegetables,  where  board  is  offered  at  $5  j 
a  week,  or  $20  a  month,  and  children  1 
under  12  are  taken  at  hall  price.  1 

According  to  the  figures  that  we  have  ' 
devoted  to  Mrs.  Tingee,  allowing  from  7 
to  10  cents  a  meal  for  provisions  and  50 
cents  each  person  as  the  expense  of  bed; 
20  boarders  at  $5  would  pay  $  100  a  week  •  i 
the  provisions  mostly  home-raised  may  be 
set  down  at  $1.^0  or  $30  for  the  whole,  i 
which  with  the  $10  cost  of  lodging  them  i 


is  $40  a  week  for  20  boarders  and  $60  re- 
mains. Allow  $10  for  drawback  on  chil- 
dren and  monthly  board  and  there  is  still 
$50  a  week  or  nearly  $200  a  month  for 
the  family  that  keeps  the  house  and  does 
nearly  all  the  work.  There  will  be  tran- 
sient meals  enough  sold  to  pay  the  rent, 
or  boats  or  carriages  let  out,  or  cigars 
sold  or  some  little  side  interest  to  keep 
the  main  profit  of  the  house  intact.  By 
reducing  the  cost  of  meals  2  or  3  cents  at 
this  lo-doUar  house  of  ours  we  could 
make  a  profit  at  $5  even  here,  where  our 
meats  and  fish  have  to  be  expressed  and 
our  fruits  and  vegetables  are  nearly  all 
canned  goods. 


Dinner. 

August  23. 

Soup— Vermicelli  (7  qts  35  cents.) 

Catfish  stewed  with  tomatoes  (5  lbs  net, 
steaks  60  with  sauce,  68  cents.) 

Potatoes  Hollandaise. 

Boiled  smoked  tongue  (25  cents.) 

Roast  beef  (3  ribs  short,  6  lbs  80  cents.) 

Civet  of  rabbit,  a  la  Chasseur  (8  rabbits 
100,  with  trimmings,  125  cents.) 

Chicken  giblets,  a  la  Parmentier  (20 
orders,  20  cents.) 

Charlotte  of  apples,  Francaise  {2i^  or- 
ders, 40  cents.) 

Baked  sweet  potatoes  20,  squash  8, 
stewed  onions  6,  rice  6,  beets  5,  potatoes 
8  (53  cents,) 

Indian  fruit  pudding  (No.  161  doubled, 
24  orders,  36  cents.) 

Blanc  mange  with  cream  (2  qts  and 
cream,  45  cents.) 

Telly  roll,  white  cake(2^  lbs  26cents.) 
_  Nuts,  raisins,  apples,  cheese,  crackers, 
pickles  (55  cents.) 

Milk,  cream  6o,  butter,  bread,  coffee, 
tea,  sugar  52  (112  cents.) 

Total,  $7  20;  55  parsons;  13  cents 
plate. 

1062— Verm  C8;li  Soup. 

For  general  directions  about  making 
soup  stock,  or  bouillon,  as  the  French 
call  it,  read  No.  irs,  the  quantities  to 
be  according  to  the  number  of  people. 
The  stock  having  been  strained  into  a 
clean  soup  pot  a  number  of  simple  soups 
without  names  can  be  made  by  even  inex 
perieaccd  persons  by  adding  a  mixtur. 


COOKING    FOR  PROFIT. 


r63 


of  vegetables  chopped  or  cut  small  and 
either  rice,  barley,  macaroni  or  nudelsor 
the  following :    Take 
6  quarts  stock. 

5  cups  minced  vegetables — being  cab- 
bage, onion,  turnip,  carrot,  celer)', 
squash,  pumpkin,  part  or  all  as  may  suit. 

6  ounces  or  2  or  3  cups  vermicelli 
broken  small. 

Boil  and  season.  It  will  be  thick 
enough  if  cooked  until  the  vermicelli  is 
well  done. 


1063— Catfish  Stewed  with  Tcmatoes. 


Cut  fish  in  slices,  each  about  2  ounces, 
and  fry  (saute)  them  in  a  frying  pan  with 
very  little  butter  or  drippings.  When 
they  are  partly  browned  and  about  half- 
cooked  add  a  cup  of  water,  a  minced 
green  onion  or  two  and  pod  ol  red  pep- 
per; then  strain  a  can  of  tomatoes 
through  a  colander  to  the  fish  and  cook 
together  about  J--^  hour.  Serve  with 
strips  of  dry  toast  about  a  finger's  length, 
in  the  plate. 


1064— Civet  cf    Rabbit,  a  la  Cjhsseu'. 


Chasseur  is  hunter,  a  la  Chasseur  means 
in  hunter's  style ;  it  does  not  signify  any- 
thing in  particular  in  regard  to  the  dish 
but  is  merely  an  ornamental  afiix  to  any- 
thing that  consists  of  game.  Civet  is  but 
another  word  for  a  ragout  or  highly  sea- 
soned stew. 

Trim  off  8  small  rabbits  by  chopping 
away  the  breasts,  necks  and  claws,  divide 
each  one  in  6  or  8  pieces,  steep  in  water 
a  while,  saute  them  brown  in  a  large  pan, 
pepper  and  salt  well  and  dredge  with 
flour  while  they  are  browning,  allowing 
about  a  cup  of  flour  and  shaking  till  the 
pieces  are  well  coated.  Then  put  in  a 
can  of  mushrooms  and  the  liquor  and 
stock  enough  to  barely  cover,  a  bouquet 
of  herbs  containing  onion,  bayleaf  and 
parsley  and  stew  at  the  back  of  the  range 
about  an  hour.  Take  out  the  bunch  of 
herbs  tit  last.  Garnish  with  small  crou- 
tons dipped  in  minced  parsley. 

1035-  Chicken    Giblets,    a    la    Par- 
men'iier. 


Cut  the  giblets  in  small  pieces  all  of 
one  size  and  stew  until  tender ;  strain  off 
the  liquor  that  remains  and  make  a  brown 
sauce  of  it,  or,  add  to  it  some  Spanish 
sauce  and  boil  down  until  it  is  thick 
enough,  put  the  giblets  in  the  sauce ;  dish 
a  spoonful  of  mashed  potatoes,  make 
hollow  with  the  back  of  a  spoon  dipped 
in  water  and  place  the  stew  in  the  miadle. 


Giblets  with  puree  of  potatoes. 


1066— Blanc  Mange, 

I  quart  milk. 

I  package  gelatine — i jounces. 

I  cup  cream. 

y^  cup  sugar. 

Flavoring. 

Put  the  sugar  and  gelatine  into  the 
milk  and  set  over  a  slow  fire  or  at  the  side 
and  stir  frequently  until  the  gelatine  is 
dissolved.  When  it  shows  signs  of  begin- 
ning to  boil,  take  off"  and  strain  into  a  pan 
and  set  away  on  ice  or  otherwise  make  it 
cold.  While  it  is  cooling  stir  up  and 
flavor  it  and  add  the  cup  of  cream  cold. 
It  will  set  like  jelly  when  quite  cold ;  may 
be  set  in  cups  or  molds  and  turned  out, 
or  cut  in  squares  and  served  with  s.veet- 
ened  cream.  Not  essential  to  have  cream 
but  needs  rich  milk.  May  be  flavored 
with  orange  or  lemon  peel  bofled  m  ii  or 
with  extracts. 

1067— I'— A  Bundle   cf   Suppositions. 

If  the  colonel  and  his  young  wife  desire 
to  indulge  in  meals  a  little  more  expensive 
than  their  neighbors',  as  has  been  the  de- 
sire of  wealthy  epicures  in  all  times,  they 
can  do  so  by  only  eating  oatmeal  and 
cream,  for  if  they  only  take  a  large  cup- 
ful each  of  oatmeal  much  requiring  i 
cent's  worth  each  of  oatmeal  to  make, 
and  take  2  cups  each  of  delicious  cold 
cream  to  eat  it  with,  the  cream  at  city 
price  will  cost  30  cents  for  the  two  and  it 
will  be  16  cents  a  plate  or  the  average  of 
our  highest-priced  dinners,  for  a  very  in- 
complete meal,  and  as  their  one  maid 
servant  will  inevitably  cost  them  the 
same  rate,  they  will  be  at  an  expense  of 
24  cents  a  meal  each  for  provisions  alone, 
and  not  much  provisions  either;  but  if 
they  will  take  their  i  cent's  worth  of  oat- 
meal with  2  cents'  worth  of  milk  that  will 
be  a  different  affair  and  much  better  for 
their  health  and  temper. 


IC4 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


To  be  extravagant  with  buckwheat 
cakes  let  them  have  all  the  cakes  they  can 
eat,  which  if  raised  with  yeast  will  only 
cost  them  2  cents  each,  and  put  between 
them  Yz  cup  of  fine  creamy  butter  at  the 
city  price  of  40  cents  a  pound  or  5  cents 
the  Vz  cup,  and  Yz  cup  more  of  pure  Ver- 
mont maple  syrup  at  $1.40  a  gallon,  or 
5  cents  the  V^  cup,  and  their  plate  of 
cakes  will  cost  12  cents  each  for  material 
alone,  which  is  higher  than  the  averac^e 
of  any  breakfast  or  supper  that  we  have 
set  out  in  this  book;  but  if  they  will  take 
elegant  silver  drips  which  can  be  bought 
now  at  60  cents  a  gallon  or  4  cents  a  cup 
and  restrict  themselves  to  restaurant  al- 
lowance of  Yo,  ounce  of  butter  or  even 
forego  it  altogether,  their  cake  breakfast 
need  not  cost  more  than  4  or  5  cents  each 
person. 

It  is  verv  likely  that  the  colonel's  young  ', 
wife  would  be  able  to  prevail  on  the  | 
butchei  to  cut  out  tenderloin  steaks  for 
her,  such  as  they  used  to  get  by  favor 
at  our  Summer  house,  but  it  would  be 
much  against  his  will  as  it  spoils  the  loin 
and  he  would  be  obliged  to  charge  her  at 
least  40  cents  a  pound.  1  aking  a  quarter 
pound  each  and  a  can  of  best  button 
mushrooms  at  40  cents  and  ^  cup  butter 
for  the  sauce,  and  rolls,  butter  and  coffee, 
they  will  have  managed  to  spend  40  cents 
each  for  the  miterial  for  a  breakfast  and, 
allowing  in  a  selection  of  this  sort  that  lo 
cents  more  will  feed  the  girl  it  is  50  cents 
each  for  the  meal  and  $1.50  for  the  three 
meals  of  one  day,  a  sum  that  with  careful 
management  and  good  cooking  might 
provision  them  for  a  whole  week  at  a 
Summer  house  after  the  method  which 
these  preceding  pages  have  shown ;  for  if, 
instead  of  the  40-cent  steak  and  40-cent 
mushrooms  or  peas,  she  will  take  a  pound 
of  steak  at  10  cents  and  10  cents  worth  of 
peas — either  green  garden  peas  or  home 
canned,  and  with  but  half  the  steak  make 
a  stew  with  peas,  a  la  Turque,  the  meal 
need  not  cost  more  than  15  cents  each, 
all  counted,  or  45  cents  a  day. 

There  has  been  plenty  of  matter  con- 
tributed to  the  newspapers  at  various 
times  in  regard  to  the  cost  of  living,  but 
all  partaking  more  of  the  nature  of  argu- 
ments m  favor  of  some  person's  pet  scheme 
than  of  plam  statements  of  actual  trials. 
What  we  think  this  diary  of  ours  proves 
is  that  people  can  live  more  cheaply  and 
better  in  numbers  together  than  they  can 


by  twos  and  threes;  that  a  moderate  va- 
riety of  dishes  does  not  necessarily  cost 
more  per  plate  than  two  or  three  dis  >esin 
larger  quantity  would  if  we  have  the  fore- 
sight to  know  how  little  of  some  of  the 
dishes  will  be  required  and  know  what 
to  do  with  the  remainders,  and  that  the 
profit  or  loss  ofkeepmg  boarders  depends 
greatly  upon  the  selection  of  material  and 
the  skill  to  offset  one  or  two  expensive 
dishes  with  a  good  many  others  made  of 
cheap  materials,  but  exceedingly  well- 
cooked  and  well  served — as  for  illustra- 
tion ;  a  pound  of  the  breast  of  chicken 
costs  25  cents,andyou  cannot  board  them 
on  breast  of  chicken ;  a  pound  of  baked 
beans  costs  3  cents,  and  they  will  not  take 
beans  alone ;  put  the  two  together  and 
you  have  2  pounds  of  the  most  desirable 
and  most  desired  food  for  14  cents  a 
pound,  which  you  can  afford,  and  it 
takes  more  skill  and  care  to  cook  the 
beans  so  that  the  dish  will  be  sought  after 
than  it  does  to  cook  the  chicken. 


Dinner. 


August  24. 

Soup— Tapioca  cream  (7  qts  48  cents.) 

Fillets  of  whitefish,  a  la  Normandie 
{5  lbs  80  cents.) 

Potatoes  a  la  Victoria. 

Roast  ham,  champagne  sauce  (i  lb  20 
cents.) 

Sirloin  of  beef,  a  la  Hongroise  (20 
cents.) 

Roast  sucking  pig,  a  I'Anglaise  (No. 
108;  10  lbs  and  sauce,  210  cents.) 

Roast  prairie  chickens,  game  sauce 
(10  grouse,  20D  cents.) 

Lamb  stew  with  tomatoes  (2  lbs  15 
cents.) 

Stewed  khol-rabi  8,  browned  sweet 
potatoes  15,  corn  10,  string  beans,  a  la 
Turque  10,  potatoes  12  (55  cents.) 

Lemon  soufflee  pudding  (2  qts  20  or- 
ders with  sauce,  35  cents.) 

Custard  and  blueberry  pies  (3  pies,  27 
cents.) 

Mountain  strawberry  ice  cream  (3  qts 
frozen,  75  cents.)  ,      1     ,   ik 

Almond  cream  cake,  pound  cake  (2  lbs 
25  cents.)  .  . 

Peaches,  nuts,  raisms,  cheese,  condi- 
ments (54  cents.) 

Milk,  cream,  butter,  etc  (106  cents.)    « 

Total,  $9  70;  56  persons;  liYi  cents  a 


COOKING  J^OR  PROMT. 


Ids 


plate. 


1068— Tapioca  Cream  Soup. 

Take  3  quarts  soup  stock  and  3  quarts 
milk,  make  a  white  roux  to  thicken  it  by 
simmering  a  slice  of  ham  in  4  ounces 
butter  and  stirring  in  a  cup  of  flour  and 
add  soup  to  the  roux  until  it  is  thick 
sauce;  let  boil,  then  strain  back  into  the 
soup.  Put  in  a  small  blade  of  mace,  a 
cupful  of  minced  onion,  a  cup  of  turnip 
and  carrot  in  the  smallest  dice  and  small 
cup  of  crushed  tapioca  Boil  slowly  un- 
til the  tapioca  grams  are  transparent  and 
stir  in  a  spoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
with  salt  and  white  pepper. 


1069— Fillets  cf  Fish,  a  la   Norman- 
die. 


Cut  the  fish  in  thin  fillets  size  of  two 
fingers,  double  them  and  place  in  close 
order  in  a  baking  dish.  Prepare  mashed 
potatoes  wich  yolk  of  eg^  mixed  in  as  for 
croquettes  and  place  a  border  of  it  round 
the  ed^eof  the  dish. 

Take  the  bones  of  the  fish  and  stew 
them  in  water  with  onion,  parsley,  thyme, 
pepper  and  salt,  making  a  fish  stew  or 
sauce,  strain  it  off  and  use  it  to  make  an 
oyster  stew,  into  which  throw  a  few 
shrimps,  crayfish,  lobster  pieces,  scallops, 
mussels  and  button  mushrooms,  all  or 
part  as  may  be  available.  Pour  this 
matelotte  or  fish  stew  over  the  fillets, 
add  a  cup  of  white  wine,  dredge  fine 
bread  crumbs  and  put  the  dish  in  the 
oven  to  bake. 

Serve  one  fillet,  the  sauce  that  belongs 
and  some  of  the  potato  border  in  the  same 
plate.  The  name  has  reference  to  the 
sea- coast  customs  of  Normandy. 


1070— R.as^  Ham,  Champagne  Sauce. 


Boil  a  piece  of  ham,  the  thick  end,  and 
when  nearly  done  put  it  in  the  oven  to 
finish  and  acquire  a  brown  outside. 
Slice  thin,  serve  sauce  under  in  the  dish. 


1071 — Chamoagne  Sauce. 
It  is  little  more  than  a  name  for  a 


brown  sauce  flavored.  Take  good  gravy 
from  the  veal  or  beef  pans  (No.  576). 
Put  on  a  spoonful  of  spices — allspice, 
cloves  and  mace — to  boil  in  ^  cup  of 
wine  and  strain  it  presently  into  the 
gravy.  Another  way  that  seems  to  meet 
the  requirement  of  a  good  sauce  for  roast 
ham,  is  to  add  wine  and  a  little  sugar  to 
the  brown  sauce  without  the  spices.  The 
substitute  where  there  is  no  wine  furnished 
is  vinegar,  sugar  and  water  in  brown 
sauce — it  is  good — nothing  wrong  about 
it  but  the  name. 


1072— Sirloin  of  Beef,  a  la  Hongroise. 


That  is  nothing  but  a  name  for  you  to 
attach  to  anv  piece  of  warmed-over  beel 
on  a  day  wnen  the  dinner  is  such  that 
you  know  nobody  will  order  beef.  Some- 
times you  can  call  it  a  la  Demidoff,  or 
Malakoff,  or  Marco  Bozarris  or  anything ; 
the  people  will  go  on  ordering  pig  and 
paraire  chicken  with  unswerving  con- 
stancy, just  the  same. 


1073— Roast  Prairia  Chickens. 


Singe  them,  wipe  clean  inside  and  out, 
skewer  through  the  thighs  and  body,  or 
else  tie  the  legs  in  place,  put  in  a 
salted  pan  with  drippings ;  roast  late  and 
have  them  come  out  only  just  done 
through.  Each  one  makes  5  dishes  by 
slicing  a  little  off  the  breast  which  is  the 
meatiest  part,  and  making  4  quarters  be- 
sides. Serve  with  jelly  or  cranberry 
sauce  or  game  sauce  which  is  cheaper. 


1074 -uame  Sauce. 


Take  two-thirds  brown  sauce  and  one- 
third  currant  jelly  or  grape  jelly,  throw 
in  6  or  8  cloves  and  simmer  together  a 
few  minutes. 


1075— Kohl-rabi,  or  Cabbage  Turnip. 

It  is  the  light  green  above-ground  tur- 
nip or  swelled  cabbage  stalk  seen  in  the 
markets  but  not  in  common  use.  Pare, 
cut  in  large  dice,  boil  as  you  would  tur- 
nips and  season  in  the  same  manner  by 
pouring  a  *f  hite  sauce  over  after  straining 


i66 


SAN  FRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


the  water  away.  It  is  like  cooked  cab- 
bage stalk  in  taste  and  may  be  cooked 
with  bacon  the  same  way. 


1076— String  Be^ns,   a   la    Turqu?. 

String  beans  salad,  m  effect.  Cut  the 
beans  down  the  whole  length,  shredding 
them,  boil  till  done,  drain  off,  cool,  then 
pour  over  enough  salad  oil  to  make  them 
shine;  salt,  pepper,  vinegar,  and  shake 
up  well.    Serve  cold  with  the  vegetables. 


1077— Umon  Suufflee  Pudding. 

It  is  the  pastry  cream,  same  as  used  to 
fill  Boston  cream  puffs.  No.  289,  with 
white  of  eggs  whipped  to  froth  stirred  in 
and  then  baked.  It  rises  high  in  the 
oven;  should  be  served  immediately  or 
at  least  not  allowed  to  become  cold. 
Use  a  quart  of  milk,  8  ounces  sugar,  5 
ounces  flour  (a  heaped  cup)  an  ounce 
butter,  8  eggs.  The  yolks  cooked  in  the 
mixture  which  must  then  b^  made  nearly 
cold  and  flavored  with  lemon,  and  the  8 
whites,  then  added.  A  spoonful  of  sweet- 
ened cream  in  each  dish  for  sauce. 


1078— rt'ountai..  Strawberry  Ice  Cream. 

Late  in  the  Summer  when  strawberries 
in  most  places  are  gone  and  forgotten  the 
mountain  gardens  send  down  their  crop, 
as  great  a  rarity  in  the  low  country  as  are 
peas  in  January.  A  few  of  them  may  be 
made  to  go  a  long  way  by  making  a  straw- 
berry flavored  ice  cream  and  mixing  one 
quart  with  it  at  the  finish. 


1079— Almond  Cream  Cake. 


Mince  a  cup  of  almonds,  boil  them  in 
a  cup  of  syrup  with  an  ounce  of  butter, 
put  in  a  cup  of  white  of  eggs  (8  whites) 
and  stir  until  cooked  after  the  same 
method  as  lemon  honey.  Spread  be- 
tween layer  cakes. 


1080— Keeping    CLan    Sids-Tcwels. 

When  a  correspondent  writes  of  what 
she  saw  at  the  South  Kensington  Cook- 


ing School,  she  seems  to  be  the  most 
taken  by  the  ceremoniousness  with  which 
the  grand  high  priestess  washes  her 
fingers  and  dries  them  on  a  snowy  side- 
towel  every  few  moments.  That  is  ^ 
good  kitchen  form  though,  as  long  as 
there  is  not  much  serious  work  to  do. 
You  may  hear  the  boys  anywhere,  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains  or  at  the  Gulf  of  Mex- 
ico or  the  eastern  sea-shore  mention 
the  Cincinnati  House  at  Gibson  City  as, 
a  pattern,  because  every  morning  every 
cook  whatever  his  grade,  is  not  only  fur- 
nished a  clean  towel,  but  finds  it  hung  on 
the  hook  under  the  edge  of  the  table  at 
his  place  when  he  comes  to  work.  At 
this  small  Summer  house  the  towel  ques- 
tion seemed  to  be  a  knotty  one  for  a 
while  until  that  good  and  smart  and 
pretty  girl,  who  was  my  second, unravelled 
It.  After  making  the  one  laundry  woman 
gasp  with  discouragement  at  the  sight  of 
the  jackets,  caps  and  aprons  I  put  upon 
her  according  to  custom,  I  was  positively 
afraid  to  say  towels  to  her;  it  was  the  last 
straw  and  might  have  broke  her  back  or 
raised  a  rebellion.  And  yet  what  was  to 
be  done? 

There  is  nothing  degardes  the  kitchen 
so  much  as  the  shameful  black  rag  that 
lies  on  the  table  in  contact  very  likely, 
with  the  best  and  whitest  dishes,  and 
when  hot  baking-pans  are  to  be  handled 
and  black-bottomed  pots  to  be  carried 
and  table  corners  to  be  wiped  off  as  well 
as  one*s  hands  a  hundred  times,thc  whitest 
towel  becomes  vile  in  two  or  three 
hours.  I  suppose  that  last  year  Mary 
Jane  used  to  wash  her  towels  out  in  the 
afternoon  instead  of  taking  her  needed 
half  hour's  nap,  poor  thing.  Well,  I  had 
three  new  towels  with  my  knives  wrapped 
in,  in  my  valise  and  out  they  came  and 
all  was  well  for  a  day  or  two  while  they 
were  new  and  nice.  But  my  second  was 
one  of  those  extremely  clean  girls;  she 
used  to  wash  and  wipe  every  egg  before 
they  should  be  used  if  the  lots  came  in 
the  least  9ff  color ;  she  washed  the  baking 
potatoes  in  three  waters  with  a  scrubbing 
brush,  washed  green  peas  before  she 
shelled  them,  picked  over  coffee  grains 
and  beans  one  by  one  and  never  knew 
trouble  or  stopoe'd  singing  until  the  work 
increased  so  that  she  could  not  do  those 
things.  It  was  about  the  evening  of  the 
fifth  day  that  she  was  first  struck  by  the 
enormity  of  the  dirtiness  of  those  towels. 


COOKING    FOR  PROFIT. 


i67 


Dinner. 

August  25. 

Soup — Bisque  of  lobster  (6  qts  48  cents.) 

Baked  carp,  tomato  sauce  (4  lbs  and 
sauce,  50  cents.) 

Boiled  ham  with  Brussells  sprouts  (25 
cents.) 

Roast  loin  of  beef  (2  lbs  35  cents.) 

Braised  young  pig,  a  la  Francaise  (7 
lbs  and  sauce,  155*  cents.) 

Salmi  of  grouse  with  olives  (6  grouse 
and  sauce,  130  cents.) 

Egg-plant  stew,  a  la  Turque  (16  orders, 
32  cents.) 

Compote  of  bananas  with  rice  (18 
bananas  36  orders,  4c  cents.) 

Fried  cabbage  6,  baked  pumpkin  8, 
tomatoes  8,  com  10,  beets  4,  potatoes  8 
(44  cents.) 

Baked  barley  puddin?  (28  cents.) 

Peach  mermgue  (like  No.  195;  43 
cents.) 

Best  sponge  cake  (No.  1091 ;  25  cents.) 

Plums,  apples,  nuts,  raisins,  cheese, 
etc.  (44  cents.) 

Miik,  cream,  coffee,  tea,  butter,  etc. 
(84  cents.) 

Total,  $7  83;  46  persons;  17  cents  a 
plate. 


This  morning  took  place  the  first  break 
of  Summer  boarders  for  their  homes; 
nine  went  away  before  dinner ;  going  to 
prepare  their  children  for  school  for  Sep- 
tember. 


1081— Bisque   of  Lobster. 


Bisque  is  paste ;  bisque  soups  are  soups 
thickened  with  a  paste  or  puree  or  pulp 
offish  or  game,  as  bisque  ice  creams  are 
creams  thickened  with  pulp  of  fruit  or 
nuts.  Selected  small  pieces  of  the  meat 
are  put  in  at  least  as  a  sign  of  what  the 
soup  is  made. 

Take  6  quarts  of  soup  stock,  and  boil 
in  it  the  bones  or  part  of  a  fish,  or  per- 
haps the  remains  of  yesterday's  matelotte. 
Take  out  half  of  it  and  made  into  butter 
sauce.  Pound  a  can  of  lobster  to  a  paste, 
and  mix  the  butter  sauce  with  it  and  pass 
through  a  seive;  strain  the  rest  of  the 
soup  stock  and  mix  both  portions  to- 
gether.   A  cupful  or  two  of  selected  red 


meat  of  lobster  may  be  added,  and  sprink- 
ling of  parsley,  salt  and  cayenne. 


1082— Baked    Carp,    Tomato    Sauce. 


Put  the  fish  in  a  baking  pan  without 
splitting  open,  with  salt  and  butter  or 
drippings,  and  bake  half  an  hour.  Pour 
a  quart  of  strained  tomatoes  into  the  pan, 
add  an  onion  and  pepper,  and  bake  half 
an  hour  longer.  Serve  by  spoonfuls  with 
sauce. 


1083— Brussells  Sprouts. 


They  are  a  small  species  of  cabbage 
about  the  size  of  apples,  that  grow  in  rows 
on  a  tall  stem.  All  dishes  in  European 
cookery  that  are  a  la  Flamande  are  with 
Brussells  sprouts.  They  are  met  with  in 
only  a  few  localities  in  this  country.  Cook 
and  season  the  same  as  cabbage  or  orther 
greens. 


1034— "ucking  Pig,  a   la   Francaise. 


To  make  the  stuffing;  fry  a  minced 
onion  in  some  fat,  throw  in  a  spoonful  of 
sage,  then  a  quantity  of  finely  minced 
bread  crumbs  and  ladleful  of  broth  to 
moisten.  Stir  around  in  the  frying  pan 
until  well  mingled,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  stuff  the  pig  with  it  and  roast  it 
in  the  oven.  When  barely  done,  take 
the  pig  and  cut  it  in  pieces  of  the  right 
size  to  serve,  put  them  in  a  broad  sauce- 
pan and  pour  in  Spanish  sauce  to  nearly 
cover,  put  a  lid  on  and  let  stew  slowly. 

Make  up  the  stuffing  from  the  cooked 
pig  into  small  balls,  bread  and  fry  them ; 
serve  one  such  forcemeat  ball  in  each 
dish  with  the  meat  and  sauce. 


1085— Salmi   of  Grouse  with  Olives. 


Roast  the  birds  rare  done,  cool  off,  cut 
in  pieces  ready  to  serve.  Make  some 
Spanish  sauce  hot,  add  wine  and  cayenne, 
put  in  the  cut  birds  and  a  cup  of  olives 
stoned  and  sliced.  Serve  with  crouton 
ornaments. 


i68 


SAN  JiRANCISCO  HOTEL  GAZETTE'S 


1036— Egg-Plant  Stew,  a  la  Turqiie, 


Take  rough  small  pieces  of  beef  or  the 
rib  ends  and  cut  to  one  size,  put  them  to 
stew  in  water.  Choose  small  egg-plants, 
the  seeds  not  very  distinct,  pare  and  cut 
up  in  pieces  like  apple  quarters,  and  put 
them  with  the  meat.  Add  a  large  onion 
and  two  or  three  tomatoes,  salt  and  pep- 
per. Let  stew  with  a  lid  on  until  the 
meat  is  tender  and  the  liquor  is  nearly  all 
boiled  out,  and  the  remainder  is  thick- 
ened with  the  vegetables.  It  is  a  sort  of 
gumbo,  worth  trying  a  few  times. 


1087— Compote    of    Bananas,    a    la 
Richelieu. 


Make  a  syrup  pudding  sauce;  cut  ba- 
nanas in  halves,  put  them  in  the  sauce 
and  let  be  parboiled  in  it,  but  not  cooked 
too  soft.  Make  a  bed  of  sweetened  rice 
in  the  dish,  place  bananas  on  the  top  and 
sauce. 


1088— Fried  Cabbage. 

Chop,  season  and  saute  in  a  frying  pan. 
A  good  way  to  dispose  of  cabbage  left 
over. 


1089-Baked  Barley  Pudding. 

Have  the  barley  thoroughly  well  boiled 
then  use  it  to  make  puddings  by  the 
same  receipts  as  cracked  wheat. 

1090— Best  Sponge  or  Savoy  Cake. 

Make  the  cake  mixture  No.  4;  and 
bake  in  molds  instead  of  small  shapes. 
May  be  flavored  with  lemon  rind  for 
lemon  Savoy  cake. 


1091~How  Many  Fires?-- Again. 


^  The  one  large  stove  has  proved  suffi- 
cient in  all  but  one  particular — we  could 
not  fill  toast  orders  with  it.  If  there  had 
been  another  fire  however  small  there 
would  have  been  nothing  more  to  be  de- 


sired. Fortunately  as  there  were  no 
breakfast  or  supper  bills  of  fare  to  remind 
them  of  "dry,  dipped,  buttered  and  milk 
toast"  the  boarders  seldom  remembered 
to  want  them,  and  then  if  the  stove  was 
crowded  full  with  cake  griddle,  soup  pots 
and  broiling  meats  we  had  to  take  the 
toast  to  the  laundry  stove. 

They  have  a  portable  sort  of  charcoal 
stove  in  the  South  that  would  be  a  boon 
to  all  the  resort  houses  elsewhere — a  stone 
pail  with  a  second  bottom  perforated  for 
draft,  put  a  coal  of  fire  in  and  fill  up  the 
pail  with  charcoal,  and  you  have  the  best 
of  fires  for  broiling,  toasting  or  keeping  a 
boiler  on,  and  one  easily  started  and 
easily  dropped  when  not  wanted.  Nine- 
tenths  ot  all  the  French  market  cooking 
at  New  Orleans  is  done  on  these  charcoal 
burners.  That  includes  the  complete  work 
of  many  restaurants. 

Whosever  buys  a  stove  such  as  our 
number  16, 8  holes,  should  be  advised  lo 
take  that  kind,  the  old  pattern,  and  not 
to  be  induced  to  get  themselves  into 
trouble  with  a  pretty  range  with  doors  and 
closets,  shelves  and  hangers,  but  no  room 
hardly  to  cook  for  a  family.  If  you  have 
a  stove  that  is  all  top  and  oven  with  a 
good  front  ash  pan  to  broil  over,you  may 
hang  a  boiling  pot  upon  the  very  edge  and 
it  will  keep  on  stewing  just  as  gently  as 
you  want  it,  and  you  need  not  clear  off 
everything  and  stop  everything  from  cook- 
ing in  order  to  get  the  cake  griddle  over 
the  only  hot  place  as  is  the  case  with  a 
so-called  range. 

If  good  and  complete  bill-of-fare  din- 
ners for  50,  rolls  and  bread  baking  and 
all  can  be  done  on  one  good  stove  is  it 
not  like  taking  a  steam  hammer  to  drive 
a  nail  to  furnish  a  house  like  the  Sum- 
merland  House  at  Unitah  City,  that 
rarely  has  more  than  75  boarders  with : 

A  3  oven  and  3  fire  range. 

Two  charcoal  broilers  for  steaks  and 
I  fish. 

Two  steam  jackets  for  boiling  meat  and 
vegetables. 

A  brick  oven. 

A  hard  coal  batter  cake  range. 

A  hard  coal  toast  range. 

A  steam  closet  for  steaming  puddings. 

A  steam  stock  boiler. 

A  steam  boiler  for  cooking  eggs. 

A  steam  carving  table. 

Steam  coffee  and  tea  urns. 


COOKING  ^OR  PROMT. 


i6g 


A  steam  "bammeree." 

Steam  closets  for  warming  dishes  and 
breads, 

A  steam  engine  and  2  engineers. 

Eighty-five  help  to  seventy-five  guests. 

A  money-losing  capacity  second  to  no 
hotel  of  its  size  in  the  land. 

August  26. 
1092— A    Rich    Fruit   Cake  for    the 
Landlady. 

This  is  an  English  wedding  cake  of 
equal  quality  with  the  black  cake  of  the 
second  bhthday  supper  and  the  bride's 
cake  of  the  wedding  breakfast,  but  all 
three  are  different, 

I  pound  sugar. 

1%  pounds  butter. 

10  eggs. 

i>^  pounds  flour. 

Mix  the  above  like  pound  cake,  then 
add: 

I  Yi  pounds  seedless  raisins. 

1^4  pounds  currants. 

I  pound  citron. 

8  ounces  almonds,  blanched. 

i  tablespoon  mixed  ground  spices. 

Half  pint  of  brandy. 

I  lemon,  juice  and  grated  rind. 

Bake  in  molds  lined  with  buttered 
paper.  Takes  from  i  to  2  hours  accord- 
mg  to  depth.  This  cake  cannot  be  cut 
while  fresh  without  crumbling,  but  be- 
comes moister  and  firm  with  a  few  days' 
keeping. 

Cost :  9  pounds  $1  6o,  or  18  cents  a 
pound;  with  3  pounds  frosting  added 
$1  90,  or  16  cents  a  pound. 

[End  of  the 


August  27. 
1093— Tomato  Catsup  for  the-  Land* 
lady. 

Known  to  be  good. 

^  bushel  tomatoes. 

3  ounces  allspice. 

2  ounces  cloves. 

I  ounce  cayenne. 

I  tablespoon  black  pepper. 

1  cup  salt. 

2  heads  garlic. 
2  large  onions. 
T  quart  vinegar. 

Take  ripe  tomatoes  slice  them  up, 
take  out  bad  spots  but  not  peel  them, 
boil  on  stone  until  soft  and  then  strain 
through  a  seive.  Tie  the  spices  in  a 
piece  of  thin  muslin.  Put  them  in  and 
the  remaining  ingredients  and  boil  3 
hours  or  longer,  if  not  thick  enough. 
Use  whole  spices;  keep  the  catsup  in 
glass,  bottles  or  jars  sealed  tight. 


1094 — Chili  Sauce  for  the  Landlady: 

Known  to  be  good. 
24  large  ripe  tomatoes. 
6  green  peppers. 
i     4  large  onions. 
I      3  tablespoons  salt. 

8  tablespoons  brown  sugar. 
6  teacups  vinegar. 

Chop  the  peppers  and  onions  very  fine. 
Peel  the  tomatoes  and  cut  up  very  small 
Put  all  into  a  kettle  and    boil  gently  an 
hour.    Keep  in  glass  jars  well  sealed. 
Eight  Weeks.] 


{Continued  from  page  r66.) 


and  I  went  behind  a  door  to  watch 
what  she  would  do.  Of  course  she 
would  not  touch  them,  only  walked 
around  the  table  and  viewed  them  on 
both  sides ;  nothing  further  took  place 
that  evening.  I  know  the  female 
mind  is  quick  to  act,  but  there  was  a 
problem  that  seemed  too  much  for 
her,  and  took  all  night  to  consider. 
But  it  was  all  right  next  morning, 
for  she  took  a  stick  and  raked  them 
into  a  gallon  apple  can,  put  in  a  small 
lump  of  concentrated  lye,  filled  up 
with  soap  suds  and  let  them  stew  for 


hours,  though  I  had  not  a  thing  but 
old  newspapers  to  use  in  the  mean- 
time, and  every  day  of  the  eight 
weeks  since,  immediately  after  dinner 
that  dear  girl  has  put  those  towels 
through  the  same  course  of  treat- 
ment, left  them  stewing  all  the  after- 
noon and  I  suppose  has  washed  them 
out  besides,  but  does  it  so  quickly  I 
have  never  witnessed  the  operation; 
and  now  if  it  were  not  for  the  burned 
places  the  same  three  towels  hanging 
there  are  white  enough  and  good 
enough  to  begin  another  campaign. 


170 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


1095 — Banana  Ice  Cream. 

About  three  good,  mellow  bana- 
nas are  enough  for  each  quart  of 
cream.  Rub  the  bananas  through  a 
sieve;  sweeten  the  cream  as  usual, 
mix  in  the  pulp  and  freeze.  This  is 
a  favorite  kind  when  made  with  real 
cream,  but  is  not  very  good  in  a 
custard  mixture. 


1096— Banana  Fritters. 

Make  thin  batter,  the  same  as  for 
apple  or  pineapple  fritters.  Cut  the 
bananas  in  halves  across,  if  large,  or 
use  whole  if  small;  put  them  in  a 
bowl  and  moisten  with  rum  and 
sugar,  dip  each  piece  in  the  batter, 
and  fry  by  dropping  them  in  hot  oil 
or  lard.  At  many  hotels  they  are 
only  rolled  in  powdered  sugar  when 
served,  but  you  will  find  they  are 
liked  better  with  sauce. 


1 097 — Oyster  Soup  aux  Fines  Herbes 

OR    NEW  ORLEANS     STYLE. 

For  a  hundred  people — two  gal- 
lons of  oysters  and  their  liquor,  two 
gallons  of  milk,  two  cans  mushrooms, 
one  onion,  two  bay  leaves,  a  handful 
of  parsley,  a  pod  of  red  pepper,  some 
white  roux  or  butter  and  flour  rubbed 
together,  or  common  flour  thicken- 
ing. 

Set  the  milk  over  the  fire  in  one 
saucepan, the  oysters  in  another;  just 
before  the  oysters  begin  to  boil  drain 
them  from  the  liquor  by  pouring  in 
a  colander,  and  keep  them  back  till 
time  to  serve.  Set  the  oyster  liquor 
over  the  fire  again,  boil  it,  skim,  and 
strain  through  a  fine  strainer  into  the 
milk,  chop  the  onion,  mushrooms 
and  parsley  and  throw  them  in  and 
bay  leaves  and  pepper  pod  whole. 


Boil  a  short  time ;  thicken  like  cream, 
add  the  oysters  at  last. 


1 098 — Oyster  Brochettes,  a  la  Creole. 

Run  a  dozen  or  more  of  large 
oysters  on  a  tinned  skewer,  drop  into 
hot  oil  and  let  fry  about  three  or 
four  minutes  to  shrink  them.  Take 
out  and  finish  them  on  the  gridiron 
over  hot  coals.  Dust  with  salt  and 
pepper;  serve  on  toast,  withdrawing 
the  skewer,  garnish  with  lemon  and 
parsley. 


1099 — A  Proposal  to  Rent  the  Place. 

Sept.  7. — As  long  as  the  moon 
shone  at  night  my  tent  among  the 
bushes  on  a  little  point  jutting  out 
into  the  lake  was  not  perceived ;  there 
is  no  path  that  leads  to  it  from  the 
land  side  and  the  boat  which  I  ha\e 
hired  from  John  is  hid  under  a  droop- 
ing tree,  and  having  no  interruptions 
the  work  of  transcribing  the  hurriedly 
pencilled  figures  of  the  summer 
accounts  has  been  rapid  and  easy. 
But  now  the  nights  are  dark  and  the 
tent  with  a  light  inside  is  like  a  huge 
lantern  and  attracts  notice.  It  would 
be  best  moved  further  back  if  I  was 
not  going  to  leave  for  good.  Mr. 
Farewell  kindly  offered  me  a  room 
in  the  hill  cottage  to  remain  as  long 
as  his  family  remained,  and  John, 
too,  who  has  made  more  pork  after 
all  than  he  expected  (for  he  has  two 
fat  hogs  that  will  weigh  250  pounds 
each)  invited  me  to  stay  and  have  a 
month's  hunting  with  him  after  the 
season  is  over.  But  I  knew  that 
safety  from  interruption  lay  only  in 
getting  clear  away  from  the  house 
where  they  could  not  call  oh  me  to 
help  them  through  sudden  troubles. 

To-night  I  have  heard  the  splash- 
ing oars  of  several  boats  passing  the 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


171 


point  and  there  were  parties  singing 
on  the  water  the  same  as  during  the 
moonlight  nights  of  last  week,  and 
at  last  commencing  on  the  other  shore 
and  coming  nearer  I  heard  the  fa- 
miliar sound  of 

♦'Ja,  wir  sammeln  uns  am  Strome," 

And  seeing  that  the  promised  visit 
was  to  take  place  I  threw  some  oil 
on  a  pile  of  dry  leaves  and  made  a 
fire  at  the  water's  edge  to  guide 
them.  It  was  John  bringing  a  letter 
from  Mr.  Farewell,  but  he  had  a 
pic-nic  party  with  him  of  young 
people  who  filled  two  boats,  and 
among  them  was  my  second  and  her 
sweetheart.  She  wore  pink  ribbons 
tliis  time,  so  the  blue  that  she  used 
to  wear  may  have  been  for  the  boat 
boy.  She  found  an  opportunity  to 
tell  me  that  with  the  money  she  has 
earned  this  summer  she  has  bought 
a  certain  handsome  young  Durham 
cow  that  we  used  to  admire  some- 
times and  carry  salt  and  corn  cakes 
to  at  the  fence  of  the  Barnacles' 
pasture.  I  don't  see  what  she  wants 
with  a  cow,  unless  maybe  she  is 
going  to  set  up  in  business  keeping 
summer  boarders.  Mr.  Farewell's 
letter  says:  "Mrs.  F.  and  I  have 
been  thinking  of  making  you  a  pro- 
position to  lease  our  place  and  run  it 
yourself  next  year.  What  do  you 
think  of  the  idea?  We  think  it  would 
be  to  your  interest  because  you  under- 
stand the  business.  There  are  places 
in  the  neighborhood  very  successful 
that  have  not  as  good  advantages  as 
ours,  but  it  needs  more  attention  than 
I  can  give  it. 

We  should  ask  you  no  rent  at  first 
but  to  accommodate  my  family  with 
the  same  rooms  we  now  occupy  dur- 
ing the  summer  season.  Come  over 
and  let  us  talk  about  it. 

We  have  had  quite  a  busy  time 
until  yesterday. 


The  relations  who  were  expected 
early  in  the  summer  arrived  the  day 
after  you  went  away.  We  regretted 
very  much  that  they  had  not  come 
sooner.  Unfortunately,  too,  Mary 
Jane  had  a  spell  of  sickness  in  the 
midst  of  it.  I  should  have  come  over 
to  see  you  if  I  had  known  your  where- 
abouts. Do  not  fail  to  come  and  see 
us  before  you  leave." 


He  would  ask  no  rent  but  his  fa- 
mily's summer  board.  Let  us  see 
how  much  rent  that  would  be.  There 
are  six  of  them  in  the  family.  This 
summer  they  have  been  waited  on  by 
the  regular  "help"  of  the  house,  but 
if  this  arrangement  were  made  they 
would  have  a  servant  of  their  own, 
that  would  be  seven.  And  under 
such  an  arrangement  they  would 
stay  here  twelve  weeks.  Our  figures 
show  that  it  costs  $5.40  per  week  to 
keep  each  person  according  to  the 
style  of  'the  few  weeks  past.  All 
things  considered  there  would  be  no 
need  to  charge  for  the  servant,  who 
would  relieve  the  house  girls  of  so 
much  work,  therefore  the  expense 
would  be: 

6  persons  @$5.40  each  $32.40  per 
week;  for  12  weeks,  total  $388.80. 

That  is  what  I  shall  have  to  pay 
them  in  the  way  of  rent. 

If  they  go  to  some  other  resort 
they  cannot  get  as  good  as  they  have 
here  for  less  than  ten  dollars  per 
week  each  and  their  one  servants 
board  free ;  that  will  be  for  6  persons 
12  weeks,  total  $720,  a  difference  in 
their  favor  of  $331.20.  I  had  rather 
pay  them  a  cash  rent  of  $500,  on  con- 
dition that  they  come  and  board  with 
me  at  $  10  per  week  each  for  1 2  weeks ; 
which  would  cause  them  to  pay  me 
back  $220. 


Another  consideration  is  that  they 
would  occupy  three  of  my  best  rooms, 


172 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


which  for  at  least  six  weeks  of  the 
season  I  could  fill  with  transients 
who  would  pay  $14  per  week  each 
or  even  more  for  choice  rooms;  and 
if  not  transient  couples  there  will  be 
parties  like  the  military  cadets  who 
can  be  put  four  in  a  room  at  special 
rates  which  will  still  make  the  rooms 
pay  better  than  having  cost-price 
boarders  in  them.  A  man  cannot  be 
too  careful  of  his  best  rooms.  I  have 
seen  a  small  hotel-keeper  lose  money 
every  day  in  a  most  prosperous  season 
through  his  want  of  skill  in  rooming 
people:  he  had  thirty  rooms  and  got 
thirty  single  persons  in  them  one  in 
each  room,  and  he  could  not  get 
them  out  nor  any  more  in,  and  the 
tide  of  tourists  was  surging  up  against 
his  doors.  Some  people  will  pay 
double  to  keep  a  good  room  to  their 
individual  use,  but  that  was  not  the 
case  with  his  agreements.  At  the 
Hotel  Fantastic  a  rich  man  and  his 
wife  occupied  three  of  the  b^st  rooms 
but  they  paid  three  hundred  dollars 
per  month  for  them  and  their  board. 
At  the  KennesawHouse  a  banker  and 
wife  paid  $150  per  month  for  two 
rooms  and  their  board.  At  the 
Bubbling  Springs  we  had  50  boarders 
who  paid  $15  per  week  each.  If  I 
take  up  Mr.  Farewell's  offer  I  shall 
be  letting  them  have  three  best 
rooms  and  board  for  six  for  $  1 30  per 
month  of  28  days  or  $21.60  per 
month  each  person.  Just  about  half 
what  it  is  worth,  and  my  rent  on  such 
terms  would  be  too  high. 


On  the  other  hand  it  is  to  be  con- 
sidered, next  season  will  be  far  better 
than  this  has  been  because  the  place 
is  now  well  advertised.  Mr.  Fare- 
well has  put  perhaps  $200,  or  $250 
in  advertising,  of  which  I  should  reap 
the  most  benefit  next  season,  for  he 
began  so  late,  the  effects  have  only 


been  felt  during  the  closing  weeks, 
when  many  came  out  of  curiosity  to 
see  a  place  they  had  read  about;  most 
people  make  up  their  minds  where 
they  will  spend  the  summer  or  winter 
a  good  while  before  the  time  comes. 
They  may  go  to  a  place  and  it  does 
realize  their  expectations.  While 
they  are  dissatisfied  they  recall  the 
good  words  they  have  heard  or  read 
in  favor  of  some  other  place  and  re- 
solve to  go  to  the  other  place  next 
time.  How  often  have  I  heard  them, 
when  they  were  chagrined  and  hu- 
miliated over  watered  milk,  bad 
butter  and  coarse  meat,  say  haughtily : 
"Ah,  never  mind,  we'll  go  to  Sara- 
toga next  year!" — as  if  that  was 
going  to  be  any  improvement,  the 
poor  innocents!  But  we  have  set  an 
excellent  table  here,  and  all  have 
gone  away  praising  not  only  the 
cooking  but  the  provisions;  they  will 
say  when  they  hear  their  friends 
complain  of  places:  "Ah,  you  ought 
to  have  gone  with  us  to  Uintah 
Lake!"  And  they  will  all  come  next 
year. 


But,  again,  there  is  the  considera- 
tion that  I  should  not  be  able  to  do 
my  own  cooking  and  taking  care  of 
provisions.  Perhaps  I  should  get 
cooks  who  would  let  the  help  run 
away  with  the  kitchen  and  feast  on 
the  best  while  the  guests  were 
served  with  the  worst;  perhaps  they 
would  carelessly  allow  every  meal 
served  to  cost  three  cents  more  than 
it  ought  to  cost; that  leakage  with  the 
increased  number  of  people  would 
amount  to  $25  per  week  and  in  twelve 
weeks  would  be  a  loss  to  me  of  $300. 
The  most  serious  loss  is  in  the  mis- 
management of  meat.  The  most 
successful  hotel  keeper  at  Bubbling 
Springs  is  one  who  still  cuts  and 
broils  and  carves  the  meats  himself; 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT,  , 


173 


though  he  has  paid  for  his  hotel  out 
of  its  earnings  and  has  built  on  to  it 
till  its  size  is  double  what  it  was  when 
he  bought  it  and  has  advanced  his 
rates,  too.  He  has  cooks,  but  he  cuts 
and  broils,  all  or  part  of  the  meats 
and  so  keeps  the  chief  expense  under 
curb  and  bridle.  He  has  a  wife  who 
can  fill  his  place  at  the  desk  when 
necessary. 


There  is,however,  a  great  deficiency, 
of  amusement  at  this  house  of  ours. 
If  there  were  more  pastimes  there 
would  be  so  many  more  transient 
visitors  that  a  few  hundred  dollars 
rent  more  or  less  would  not  be  worth 
considering.  I  will  see^  what  Mr. 
Farewell  as  landlord  is  willing  to  do 
in  improving  the  place  as  a  pleasure 
resort  before  deciding. 


CONCLUSION. 

A  few  materials  have  been  men- 
tioned as  derived  from  the  cook's 
valise,  they  are  not  included  in  the 
bills.  These  are  extract  of  meat, 
catsups  and  two  or  three  dollars'worth 
of  canned  truffles.  Opinions  will 
differ  on  such  matters,  but  as  every 
cook  carries  his  own  knives  and  lard- 
ing needles  I  think  it  wise  and  politic 
under  such  circumstances  as  are 
detailed  in  the  preceding  pages  for 
the  cook  to  carry  a  small  stock  of 
such  extra  helps  besides.  If  the 
proprietors  of  the  small  houses  knew 
everything  they  would  see  the  ad- 
visability of  providing  all  sorts  of 
seasoninj^s  at  their  own  expense,  as 
they  do  not  understand  the  use  of  them, 
the  cook  does  well  to  supply  him- 
self and  get  his  pay  back  in  the  repu- 
tation which  he  gains  for  the  superior 
flavor  of  his  dishes  and  for  the  un- 
expected production  of  a  truffled  fowl 


when  it  may  chance  there  are  visitors 
present  who  will  appreciate  the  effort. 
For  a  good  reputation  means  good 
pay  and  choice  of  good  positions,  and 
is  wortn  a  little  outlay  of  money  as 
well  as  a  good  deal  of  hard  work  to 
secure. 


TO  MAKE    GLAZE. 

Extract  of  meat  and  the  meat 
glaze  made  by  the  cooks  are  vary 
nearly  the  same  thing.  It  is  an  ex- 
pensive substance  when  made  of  the 
best  quality,  retailing  at  about  thirty 
cents  an  ounce.  The  cheapest  is  the 
Australian  extract  of  beef  solid  and 
dry  in  bladders,  which  sells  at  $1.25 
per  pound.  Meat  extract  added  to 
consommes  and  gravies  gives  them 
a  rich  flavor  which  is  one  of  the 
evidences  to  the  guests  at  t^ble  that 
there  is  a  professional  cook  in  the 
kitchen. 

There  are  times  when  a  cook  can 
make  his  own  glaze,  which  is  nearly 
the  same  as  extract,  the  difference 
being  that  it  contains  more  gelatine 
from  the  bones  than  the  extract  of 
lean  meat.  When  there  happens  to 
be  a  great  plenty  of  soup  bones  and 
the  stock  boiler  is  full  of  rich  stock 
or  bouillon^  and  when  instead  of 
using  it  oyster  soup  must  be  made, 
then  the  stock  should  be  strained  off 
into  a  large  copper  saucepan  and  be 
boiled  down  rapidly  until  it  is  nearly 
dried  down  to  gravy.  Then  skim 
off  the  fat,  add  some  salt,  and  simmer 
down  carefully  until  it  looks  thick 
and  dark  and  is  in  danger  of  burning. 
Four  it  into  a  jar  or  can;  it  will  set 
solid  when  cold  and  a  slice  taken  out 
and  added  to  the  soup  on  a  day  when 
the  stock  is  poor  will  be  found  the 
one  thing  that  was  needed  to  bring 
it  up  to  the  first  quality.  Such  glaze 
or  extract  will  keep  for  months.  The 
French  name  is  glace  iVron.  ^larce. ) 


lU 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


^\,^;^^^* 


Tl&e  Ballade  of 

A  printer  threw  away  his  stick 
And  washed  his  inky  hands. 

"I'll  go  and  tempt  the  Fates,"  he  cried, 
"Far  off  in  Western  lands." 


And  so  he  landed  in  Begosh, 
A  brand  new  Kansas  town, 

And  there  he  built  a  small  hotel 
And  named  it  "Settle  Down." 


He  was  the  landlord,  clerk  and  cook 

The  table  waiter,  too. 
He  made  the  beds  and  tended  bar — 

And  had  enough  to  do. 


The  town  grew  fast,  the  hotel  throve, 
He  hired  some  extra  hands. 

His  profits  quite  as  fast  as  got 
He  put  in  Begosh  lands. 


And  as  he  throve  he  felt  a  want : 
Mysterious,  dim,  obscure. 

He  could  not  tell  exactly  what, 
But  there  it  was,  for  shure. 


"Hal  Ha!"  he  cried,  as  sudden  light 
Broke  on  him  while  at  dinner, 

"I  want  a  printed  bill-of-fare — 
"I  do — as  I'm  a  sinner." 


There  was  no  printing  press  in  town; 

He  sent  and  bought  him  one. 
It  came,  with  type,  he  worked — and  lol 

The  bill-of-fare  was  done. 


ISettle  Mown." 

He  loaded  it  with  lots  of  French 

To  sort  of  give  it  style. 
And  proudfuUy  he  set  it  forth 

His  boarders  to  beguile. 

There  came  six  cowboys  to  his  board, 
All  armed  and  fierce  and  grim. 

Each  man  picked  up  a  bill-of-fare — 
Then  hastened  out  to  him. 

Then  on  that  pale  and  trembling  man 
Their  words  fell  fierce  and  hot: 

"Why  don't  yer  talk  United  States? 
"What  is  this  Dago  rot.? 

"Wlia's  'A  lay-matree  D-hoteV  f 
"What's  *^fum-mey-D-ter-ree'  ? 

"What's  ^Mack-er-hony-azv-i,r7'a-teen'  f 
"What's  'Me-Tiew'?  What's  'Saiv-teif 

"Who's  'Juliana'?  Who's  'Tojnmy  T? 

"Who's  'Z/'and  'May  O'Nass'f 
"Say!  is  'Coji-Sommy- Printer-near^ f 

"Where  is  ' P at. -D.-Foy- grass'  ^" 

"Yer'r  growin'  rich!  Yer'r  gettin'  proud  1 

"Yer  want  ter  be  er  dude. 
"Ther  daisies  claim  yer  tender  toes. 

"Yer'U  du  ther  grass  roots  good." 

There  fell  a  grave  like  silence  then — 
Each  man  his  cannon  drew. 

***•****♦ 
The  doctor's  perforation  count 
Came  up  to  forty- two. 

EPITAPH. 

This  man  was  too  advanced  for  use, 

He  had  to  great  a  head. 
He  worked  his"  Settle-Down"  in  French— 

His  settle-up  in  lead. 

From  the  Hotel  Register  ^  N,  T, 


*)  Menu  should  be  pronounced  tnayno. 


HOTKL   CARVING 


Cef  -.ain  men  who  practise  the  same 
set  of  duties  every  day  will  acquire 
extraordinary  dexterity  in  their  line, 
and  they  are  the  men  to  watch  if 
one  would  learn  all  the  sharp  cuts  in 
carving.  George  McG — ,  a  South- 
ern hotel  keeper  v/as  one  of  these 
fine  carvers,  but  rather  off-hand  and 
wasteful  with  it,  for  he  was  full  of 
other  business  and  would  not  dwell 
upon  trifles;  he  was  for  rapidity  and 
did  not  stop  to  clean  all   the  meat 


"Well — that  turkey  weighed  12 
pounds  before  it  was  cooked  —  I 
suppose  I  could  carve  35  or  40 
orders  from  it  if  I  was  trying,  and  I 
don't  think  there  are  many  carvers 
around  here  can  beat  me." 

"  Mr.  McG —  I  think  I  can  just 
about  double  that  number  for  a  five 
dollar  bet." 

"I'll  bet  you  a  ten  dollar  gold 
piece  against  seven  days  wages  you 
can't  beat  it  over  ten  dishes" — retum- 


Phlladelphia  Capon. 


from  the  carcasses;  left  them  to  be 
stripped  aftersvards  for  salad  or  hash. 
There  was  another  man  employed 
in  his  house,  a  professional  carver, 
Jake  Carter  by  name,  and  one  day 
he  said: 

"Mr.  McG — ,  how  many  orders 
do  you  think  I  can  get  off  this 
turkey.?" 

"Oh — I  don't  know — how  much 
does  it  weigh?" 

"Here  it  is — you  can  judge  for 
yourself." 


ed  McG — and  not  thinking  any  more 
about  the  matter  he  turned  on  his 
heel  and  went  off  to  the  front  of  the 
house.  But  Jake  Carter  called  wit- 
nesses to  watch  and  off  that  one 
turkey  he  carved  and  sent  in  70 
passable  orders.  It  was  nearly  two 
years  before  McG — would  pay  the 
bet,  and  then  he  was  greatly  in  need 
of  Carter's  services  at  a  banquet  and 
was  obliged  to  pay  it;  but  that  was 
only  one  specimen  of  Carter's  skill 
as  a  carver  which  has  been  so  valu- 


(ITO) 


176 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


able  to  him  that  he  has  had  fourteen 
years  constant  employment  in  one 
city,  the  time  being  devided  between 
only  two  hotels. 

The  art  and  the  difficulty  of  it 
consists  in  slicing  broad  but  thin, 
even  as  thin  as  paper. 

Of  course  there  are  two  sides  of 
the  carving  question  and  the  con- 
sumer may  not  see  the  subject  in  the 
same  pleasing  light  that  the  calculat- 
ing hotel  man  does;  there  must  be  a 
medium  observed  that  will  result  in 
giving  satisfaction  to  the  guests  at 
table,  yet  it  is  so  true  that  nearly  all 
hotel  dishes  contain  twice  as  much  as 


are  used  for  all  purposes,  and  withal, 
the  carver  must  know  where  the 
joints  are  so  well  that  his  sharp 
knives  will  pass  through  them  with- 
out contending  against  the  bones. 
With  such  a  keen  knife  the  breast 
of  a  small  chicken  can  be  laid  open 
so  as  to  top  cover  four  dishes,  which 
would  not  make  any  showing  upon 
two  dishes  in  the  hands  of  a  clumsy 
carver,  and  a  large  chicken  will  cover 
six  or  eight. 

The  method  is,  to  place  a  spoon- 
ful of  the  stuffing  in  the  dish,  slice 
meat  off  the  drumstick  and  place  be- 
side it,  or  a  joint  of  the  wing  and  on 


American  Thanksg^ivingf  Turkey. 


they  need  and  the  cost  of  provisions 
is  needlessly  increased  in  that  way 
that  a  skillful  carver  who  can  make 
a  dish  look  broad  and  plentiful  with- 
out giving  it  much  weight  may  be 
the  most  valuable  man  in  the  house. 
Some  men  are  not  adapted  to  be- 
come good  carvers;  quick,  impatient, 
irritable  men  are  not.  It  takes  an 
easy-going  imperturbable  person 
who  cuts  smoothly  with  long  and 
steady  strokes  and  does  not  see-saw 
and  scatter  the  splinters.  The  knives 
must  be  thin  and  as  keen  as  razors; 
there  can  be  no  good  carving  with 
the  ordinary  kitchen  knives  which 


top  lay  the  white  meat  as  broad  and 
thin  as  the  size  of  fowl  will  allow. 

While  such  directions  may  read 
well  enough  it  will  be  found  the 
practice  is  not  so  easy  unless  pursued 
with  steady  system.  Take  up  the 
chicken  by  inserting  the  fork  in  the 
cavity  of  the  neck,  where  the  crop 
was,  and  keep  the  fork  there  in  one 
place  until  the  fowl  is  disjointed  and 
the  breast  is  in  slices.  First  take  off 
the  legs  and  thighs,  cutting  to  the 
hip  joint,  then  with  a  turn  of  the 
wrist  throwing  it  out  of  the  socket 
and  pass  the  knife  clear  through, 
hold  up  the  carcass  and  strike  the 


COOKING  I^OR  PROFIT. 


177 


knife  through  the  small  of  the  back 
and  the  lower  part  or  side  bones  fall 
off.  Then  remove  the  wings  at  the 
sockets.  Next  take  off  the  first  slice 
— the  brown  outside — of  the  breast. 
If  a  large  fowl  you  can  get  a  broad 
slice  more  of  white  meat  before 
touching  the  bone.  Next  to  that  is 
the  fowl's  shoulder-blade,  a  bone 
almost  like  the  wishbone,  imbedded 
in  the  white  meat  and  very  much  in 
the  way  of  the  carver  who  is  not 
ported ;  but  your  knowing  hand  takes 
hold  of  it  by  the  projecting  knob, 
which  is  the  wing  socket,  and  gently 
pulls  it  off  and  the  whit^  meat  that 
comes  with  it  and  coveis  it,  and  it 
makes  a  slice  itself  almost  as  thin  and 
quite  as  broad  as  the  others.  Under 
that  and  lying  close  to  the  breast 
bone  is  another  layer  to  be  taken  off 


with  the  point  of  the  knife  and  that 
makes  four  slices  of  white  meat  from 
one  side,  eight  from  the  two  sides, 
to  make  the  tops  of  dishes  partly 
made  up  of  a  slice  from  the  leg,  or  a 
side  bone  or  split  of  the  upper  part 
of  the  back. 

In  carving  a  turkey  the  proceed- 
ing is  the  same  but  less  difficult  as 
there  is  more  meat  to  work  on.  The 
usual  way,  which  was  the  way  Mc- 
G —  did,  is  to  place  the  carving  fork 
astride  of  the  breast  bone  and  keep 
it  there  until  the  turkey  is  all  cut  up, 
but  Carter  objected  that  thrusting 
the  fork  in  there  cut  through  a  slice 
of  the  white  meat  in  the  best  part  on 
each  side  of  the  boite  and  he  took  a 
hold  in  the  crop  cavity  as  already 
mentioned. 


Boned  Chicken  witli  Jelly. 


ARTISTIC   COOKBRY 

And  Notes  on  the  London  Cookery  and  Food  Exhibition  of  1885. 


BY  JESSUP  WHITEHEAD. 


The  thousands  of  intelligent  and 
progressive  workers  who  are  now 
using  Whitehead's  Hotel  Books  are 
reminded  of  a  promise  w^ritten  some 
years  ago  in  the  American  Pastry 
Cook^  at  No.  221,  to  give  at  a  sub- 
sequent time  certain  illustrated  in- 
structions in  cake  ornamentation,  and 
also  some  further  details  of  the 
method  of  preparing  stands  and 
socles  for  meat  dishes  named  at  No. 
802 j.  Under  the  styles  of  table 
service  at  present  prevailing,  there  is 
not  much  demand  for  work  of  that 
kind,  however  beautiful  it  may  be; 
still,  whenever  the  holiday  season 
approaches,  with  its  banquets  and 
decorated  tables,  some  letters  always 
come  with  reminders  that  those 
promises  remain  unredeemed.  The 
completion  of  a  new  volume  in  the 
series  now  furnishes  the  desired  op- 
portunity. 

Had  these  lines  been  written  a  few 
months  earlier,  it  would  probably 
have  been  with  the  impression  that 
a  revival  of  what  is  called  artistic 
cookery,  which  is  really  only  orna- 
mental cookery,  was  taking  place; 
the  rather  unsatisfactory  result  of  the 
recent  cookery  and  food  exhibition 
at  the  Royal  Aquarium,  London,  has 
a  tendency  to  dispel  that  idea,  how- 
ever, and  seems  to  show  that  there 
is  but  little  recompense  to  be  ex- 
pected for  any  efforts  in  that  line,  the 
times  being  too  thorougly  practical 
in   their   tendency   to   allow    much 


demand  for  such  fragile  and  transit- 
ory work  as  the  cooks  can  put  upon 
their  cold  dishes.  A  resort  hotel  in 
the  United  States  may  go  through  a 
season's  business,  entertain  ten  thou- 
sand guests,  and  pay  «  chef  the  high- 
est salary,  and  yet  never  require  a 
single  ornamental  dish  beyond  a 
turkey  in  jelly  to  be  sliced  before 
served,  or  some  other  such  simple 
dish.     Still,  as 

"BEAUTY    IS    ITS    OWN    EXCUSE  FOR 
BEING," 

we  must  pursue  the  ornamental 
branch  as  a  labor  of  love,  because  we 
take  pleasure  in  showing  such  work, 
as  the  cooks  of  the  largest  cities 
yearly  make  displays  of  pieces  that 
cost  them  nights  and  days  of  patient 
toil,  simply  keeping  up  the  fashions 
of  other  times  for  their  own  pride 
and  gratification.  Numbers  of  the 
British  aristocracy  patronize  and  en- 
courage the  ornamental  work  that 
perpetuates  old  customs,  such  as 
boar's  head  banquets,  and  the  En- 
glishman who  eats  five  meals  a  day 
will  have  the  buffet  or  sideboard, 
where  the  early  lunch  or  late  cold 
supper  is  displayed,  decorated  in  his 
ckef'*s  best  style,  if  he  can  afford  it, 
for  there  it  does  not  interfere  with 
the  newer  floral  fashions  which  rule 
the  dinner  table.  At  some  American 
hotels,  where  a  specialty  is  made  of 
serving  banquets  to  order,  this  orna- 
mental  work   frequently    comes   in 


(178) 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


179 


place,  and  on  many  occasions,  such 
as  holidays  and  anniversaries,  the 
cook  can  bring  in  his  little  surprises 
for  the  benefit  of  his  own  reputation, 
if  for  nothing  else. 

It  was  not 

THE  LONDON  EXHIBITION 

alone  that  gave  seeming  indicatons  of 
a  change  to  a  revival  of  ornamental 
pieces,  for  its  precursor,  a  similar  ex- 
hibition at  Berlin  a  year  or  two  pre- 
vious, which  has  already  been  alluded 
to  in  this  book  (No.  692)  where  the 
Emperor  and  Empress  gave  their 
personal  attention  to  the  encourage- 
ment of  such  work  had  the  appear- 
ance of  originating  the  movement  of 
which  the  London  exhibition  with 
its  imposing  plan  and  extensive  ad- 
vertising was  a  continuation. 

The  after  report  shows  it  to  have 
been  principally  an  advertising  ex- 
position of  materials  and  appliances, 
and  in  spite  of  the  best  endeavors  of 
its  promoters,  the  cooking  depart- 
ment attracted  less  attention  than  the 
sideshows  and  the  music.  There  were 
about  300  exhibitors,  however,  and 
several  gold  medals  and  purses  were 
contested  for  in  various  departments, 
that  of  artistic  cookery  being  the 
most  interesting. 

In  accordance  with  the  European 
proprieties,  the  London  exhibition 
started  under  the  patronage  of  a 
dozen  titled  personages  and  a  jury 
besides  of  twenty-six  ladies  and 
gentlemen  in  the  artistic  cookery 
department.  The  motive  power  of 
the  whole  affair  seems  to  have  been 
furnished  by  three  or  four  firms  ex- 
tensively engaged  in  the  catering  and 
restaurant  business,with  a  hard  work- 
ing honorary  secretary  who  managed 
all  the  details,  and  for  whom  at  last 
a  purse  was  made  up  by  subscription 
of  the  exhibitors  in  recognition  of  his 
untirinsT    exertions.       One    of   these 


catering  firms  contracted  to  furnish 
meals  as  follows: 

Hot  and  cold  lunches  at  50  cents 
per  head.. 

Dinners  a  la  carte  from  60  cents 
upwards. 

The  club  dinner  at  85  cents. 

The  table  d'h6te  dinner  at  $1.25. 

The  dinner  a  la  carte  is  the  restau- 
rant style  where  every  dish  in  the 
bill  of  fare  has  the  price  attached,  and 
a  person  can  order  according  to  what 
he  wishes  to  spend. 

The  club  dinner  is  in  courses,  the 
person  takes  all  that  is  offered,in  good 
form  but  without  much  choice  and 
pays  a  fixed  price  for  the  repast. 

The  table  d'hote  is  the  hotel  plan; 
the  person  chooses  from  the  bill  of 
fare  whatever  he  joleases  and  as 
much  as  he  pleases,  and  pays  a  fixed 
price  for  the  repast,  be  it  little  or 
much.  We  give  these  particulars  to 
show  the  ideas  of  theLondon  caterers, 
of  the  worth  of  the  different  meals. 

On  certain  stated  dates  they  an- 
nounced they  would  serve: 

The  Indian  dinner  at  $1.25  per 
head. 

The  American  dinner  at  $1.75. 

The  old  English  dinner  at  1.50. 

Dinner  a  la  Francaise  at  $1.50. 

The  Indian  dinner  was  intended 
to  give  prominence  to  East  Indian 
products  and  dishes  of  curries,  pillaus, 
kabobs,  rice,  chutneys  and  teas,  a  fea- 
ture that  was  instigated  by  a  firm 
engaged  in  the  East  India  trade. 

The  old  English  dinners  we  have 
no  particulars  about,  but  doubtless  it 
included  roast  beef  and  plum  pud- 
ding, whatever  the  side  effects  may 
have  been,  and  the  French  dinner  as 
surely  included  bards  and  braizes^ 
sautes  and  ragouts^  as  well  as  sorbets 
and  sucres. 


180 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


It  was  certainly  atr  ibute  to  the  ex- 
cellence of  American  fare  that  the 
price  of  the 

AMERICAN  DINNER 
was  placed  the  highest  in  the  list;  the 
plan  probably  contemplated  oysters, 
turkey,  terrapin  and  canvas  back,with 
hominy  or  corn,  and  a  pumpkin  pie 
not  very  far  off,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped 
the  caterers  were  well  aware  that  ice 
cream,  the  pure  article  frozen,  is  reg- 
ular American  diet.  We  eat  it  three 
times  a  day  and  once  at  night  after 
the  theatre. 

There  was  a  vast  variety  in  kinds 
of  goods  exhibited,  ranging  from 
water  filters  and  ranges,  electric  light- 
ing for  dining-rooms,  and  refrigerat- 
ors and  silver  plating  to  the  flexible 
glass  neckties  and 
FLEXIBLE  GLASS  WEDDING  CAKE 

decorations,  and  from  steam  machin- 
ery for  making  bread  and  cake,  to 
"Mrs.  Butcher,  vegetable  flower  cut- 
ter," who  announced:  "Flowers 
carved  by  hand  from  carrots  and  tur- 
nips. The  process  demonstrated." 
This  must  have  been  a  very  useful  old 
lady  to  have  around  at  such  a  time, 
and  her  art  has  some  relation  to  the 
wax  flower  work  to  be  mentioned 
further  on.  Another  oddity  among 
the  entries  is  "Maids  of  Honour,  a 
peculiar  kind  of  Cheese-Cakes  which 
have  been  sold  at  the  original  shop, 
Hill  street,  Richmond,  for  nearly  two 
centuries."  (See  No.  505.) 
•  There  were 

PRIZES  OFFERED 
for  small  dishes  of  sweets,  best  four 
by  one  person,  and  best  two  prizes 
for  cold  entrees  in  sets,  or  for  groups 
of  savories  and  sweets,  all  by  the 
same  maker;  prizes  for  folding  nap- 
kins and  for  the  best  set  table,  and 
prizes  by  the  gas  stove  makers  for 
best  things  baked  in  their  contriv- 
ances; and  at  certain  times  there  were 


lectures  on  cookery  which  we  are  led 
to  infer  from  the  reports  proved  less 
attractive  than  the  various  side-shows 
which  had  been  admitted  to  the 
building. 

The  two  or  three  days  devoted  to 
the 

ARTISTIC  COOKERY  CONTEST 

proved  the  most  interesting  and  drew 
together  the  chefs  and  caterers  from 
vorious  parts  of  "the  kingdom." 
Some  of  the  prizes  were: 

For  two  grosse  pieces,  fish,  meat, 
fowl  or  game,  a  gold  medal  and  $30; 
second  prize,  silver  medal. 

Four  dishes,  cold  entrees,  prizes 
the  same. 

Six  dishes  of  meat,  poultry,  etc., 
larded  and  trussed,  etc.,  ready  for 
cooking.  Prize,  silver  medal  and 
$10. 

Trophy  of  birds,  animals,  fish, 
flowers,  fruit,  cascades,  temples,  or 
landscapes,  any  size  suitable  for  buf- 
fet.    Prize,  silver  medal  and  $10. 

Four  ornamental  blocks  for  sweets 
or  savories  made  of  either  of  the  fol- 
lowing: Saindoux,  stearine,  salt, 
wood,  raised  paste,  rice,  or  bread. 
Prize,  bronze  medal  and  $5. 

A  decorated  Christmas  cake. 
Prize,  bronze  medal. 

Twelve  varieties  of  rolls  and  bread. 
Prize,  silver  medal. 

Cheap  soup  for  the  poor  with 
recipe  for  making  and  the  cost. 

There  were  about  180  entries  in 
the  cookery  lists. 

The  principal  pieces  entered  were: 

A  cygnet  (young  swan)  in  galant- 
ine on  wax  stand. 

Boar's  head  on  wax  stand. 

Peacock  a  la  royale. 

Round  of  beef  a  I'Ecossaise. 

Dinde  (turkey)  a  I'Imperatrice. 

Galantine  de  faisan  (pheasant.) 

Boar's  head. 

Dish  of  game. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


181 


Tete  de  sanglier  de  la  Foret  noir, 
6ur  socle  (Boar's  head  from  Black 
Forest,  on  stand.) 

Capon  and  tongue,  en  bellevue. 

Poularde  a  la  "Army  and  Navy" 
(hotel)  on  mutton  fat  stand  (a  bas- 
tion.) 

Hure  de  sanglier  (wild  boar's 
head)  a  la  St.  Hubert,  on  mutton  fat 
stand  (a  fig  tree.) 

In  the  section  of  "trophies"  of 
birds,  animals,  etc.,  the  pieces  entered 
were  castles,  temples,  windmills  and 
the  like  made  of  sugar  or  gum  paste, 
one  temple  being  made  of  wood 
covered  with  icing,  and  one  consisted 
of  objects  representing  scenes  from 
operas,  in  sugar  work.  There  were 
also  entries  of — 

Two  decorated  salt  blocks,  suitable 
for  galantines,  tongues,  etc. 

Two  decorated  salt  blocks,  suitable 
for  boar's  head,  raised  pies,  hams,  etc. 

Four  carved  salt  blocks. 

Four  ornamental  blocks  of  wood, 
salt  and  wax. 

These  selections  from  a  lengthy 
catalogue  will  give  an  idea  what  the 
display  was  made  of.  The  exhibitors 
were  the  chefs  in  the  employ  of  cer- 
tain lords  and  ladies  in  most  cases, 
and  of  the  leading  restaurants  and 
London  hotels.  These  were  the  plans 
before  the  opening.  They  were 
carried  out  with  only  partial  success. 
The  after  report  says  the  exhibitors 
succeeded  in  getting  a  good  adver- 
tisement of  their  wares  if  they  did 
not  find  many  purchasers;  and  the 
artistic  cookery  competition  brought 
together  a  few  good  pieces  and  a 
great  many  indifferent  and  bad  ones. 
»  This  is  not  to  be  wondered  at.  As 
is  the  case  with  the  exhibits  made  at 
the 

COOK'S    ANNUAL    BANQUETS 

in  this  country  the  ornamental  work 
is  done  under  great  difficulties ,  usually 


in  the  nights  after  the  day's  work  has 
been  performed,  and  the  cooks  are 
almost  all  out  of  practice.  If  they 
had  the  same  tasks  to  perform  weekly 
or  monthly  they  would  learn  by  ex- 
perience and  improve  on  their  former 
efforts,  but  if  only  once  a  year  and 
they  try  a  new  thing  each  time  it  is 
impossible  for  their  works  to  be 
strictly  works  of  art  or  even  com- 
monly admirable.  Still  there  are 
some  champions  in  this  line  and  for 
their  best  efforts  a 

CHAMPION  PRIZE 

was  offered  in  addition  to  the  other 
prizes,  not  to  be  restricted  to  any  one 
department,  but  to  be  awarded  for 
the  best  piece  in  the  whole  exhibition. 
It  was  won  by  a  hotel  confectioner 
for  a  trophy  in  sugar  work ;  this  chef 
(Tceuvre  consisted  of  a  double  vase  of 
flowers  moulded  in  sugar  and  colored 
to  imitate  the  natural  tints. 

This  award  gave  dissatisfaction  to 
one  person  at  least,  this  was  an  ex- 
hibitor, a  champion,  too,  in  his  line, 
chef  to  a  lord,  author  af  a  book  on 
confectionery,  and  who  had  some 
admirable  pieces  on  exhibition  and 
he  has  since  challenged  the  champion 
prize  winner — the  hotel  man — to  an- 
other contest  for  $50  a  side.  The 
dissatisfied  man  is  a  Frenchman  and 
requires  a  jury  composed  of  three  or 
four  English  cooks  and  as  many 
French  to  decide  upon  the  result. 

Amongst  the  regrets  expressed 
that  this  exhibition  had  not  proven 
richer  in  fine  works  of  culinary  art, 
it  is  mentioned  that  the  French  cooks 
in  London  had  made  a  display  of 
their  own  some  months  previous  and 
shown  much  superior  work.  As  some 
of  the  exhibitors  have  furnished  de- 
scriptions of  their  dishes  for  publica- 
tion, it  is  possible  to  give  a  very  fair 
idea  of  what  "very  best"  work  con- 
sists. 


182 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


TIMBALES    OF    TRUFFLES   A  LA 
ROTHSCHILD. 

By  M.  Alfred  Suzanne,  of  London, 

Choose  some  large  fresh  truffles, 
all  of  one  size  and  as  round  as  pos- 
sible. Having  thorougly  cleansed 
them  by  brushing  the  mould  off  in 
water,  set  them  to  boil  slowly 
for  half  an  hour  in  a  champagne 
"mirepoix."  When  cold,  drain  the 
truffles,  saving  the  liquor  in  which 
they  have  been  boiled,  and  with  a 
round  cutter  scoop  out  all  the  inside 
of  the  truffles.  Next,  make  a  "salpi- 
con"  compound  of  chicken,  mush- 
rooms, tongue  and  truffles;  these  in- 
gredients must  be  stamped  out  with 
a  round  cutter,  the  third  of  an  inch 
in  diameter,  and  amalgamated  to- 
gether with  some  AUemande  sauce. 
When  ready  to  serve,  warm  up  the 
truffles  in  some  of  the  "mirepoix," 
the  remainder  of  which  is  reduced 
with  some  Espagnole  sauce  to  pour 
round  the  entree.  Fill  up  the  truffles 
with  the  hot  salpicon,  and  serve. 

The  season  of  the  London  Exhibi- 
tion was  the  season  also  of 

THE  TRUFFLE  HARVEST 
in  Italy  and  France.  Some  exceed- 
ingly fine  truffles  were  shown,  some, 
it  is  stated  weighed  i  ^  pounds  each. 
When  absolutely  fresh,  as  these  were, 
the  truffle  is  a  thing  to  raise  enthu- 
siasm in  the  mind  both  of  the  gour- 
mand and  his  cook;  it  has  a  rich, 
nutty  flavor  that  is  peculiarly  its  own 
and  a  pefume  as  pervading  as  that 
of  a  bunch  of  ripe  bananas.  It  is  a 
tuber  that  grows  spontaneously,  just 
below  the  surface  of  the  ground; 
some  are  nearly  white  all  through 
but  the  best  are  jet  black.  One  re- 
commendation of  the  truffle  in  the 
eyes  of  the  wealthy  is  its  dearness, 
which  keeps  it  above  the  reach  of 
"common  people."  A  dish  of  large 
truffles  prepared   as  directed   in   the 


recipe  for  a  fasionable  dinner  party 
fifteen  or  twenty  might  perhaps  cost 
fifty  dollars.  The  canned  and  bot- 
tled truffles  ranging  from  the  size  of 
a  gooseberry  up,  and  which  cost 
about  a  dollar  an  ounce,  do  serve  a 
purpose  in  furnishing  a  name  for  a 
dish,  but  their  intrinsic  value  is  noth- 
ing at  all;  they  are  not  even  the 
ghost  of  the  real,  fresh  article. 


NECTARINE  DE  FOIE  GRAS  A  LA 
MOLESWORTH. 

By  M.  Alphonse  Landry,  of  London, 

A  cylindrical  mould  resting  on  a  layer 
of  pounded  rough  ice  is  to  be  lined  with  a 
bright  aspic  jellj,  the  sides  being  decorated 
with  cut  truffles.  Line  the  mould  a  second 
time  with  white  sauce  chaudfroid.  When 
set,  fill  the  mould  lightly  with  foie  gras 
mixed  with  truffles,  both  cut  into  small 
dice.  To  set  the  whole,  fill  up  the  mould 
with  a  good  brown  sauce  chaudfroid,  and 
finish  with  essence  of  truffles  and  aspic 
jelly  of  a  good  consistency.  Let  the  mould 
remain  in  the  ice  until  wanted,  when  dip  it 
into  hot  water  and  turn  out  the  contents  on 
a  dish.  Fill  the  centre  with  truffles,  and 
put  croutons  of  aspic  jelly  round  the  base. 

Foie-gras  is  liver-fat  or  fat  liver; 
the  French  language  generally  puts 
the  cart  before  the  horse  that  way; 
but  it  specially  means  the  livers  of 
fat  geese  that  come  principally  from 
Strasbourg  where  a  great  business  is 
made  of  fattening  geese  for  the  sake 
of  the  livers. 

Pate  -  de  -foie  -  gras  means  two 
things,  it  is  either  paste  of  fat  liver, 
with  truffles  in  it,  such  as  comes  in 
jars  from  Strasbourg,  or  pie  of  fat 
livers — according  to  the  accent  on 
the  word  pate.  The  pie  or  pate  made 
of  a  crust  baked  in  a  raised  mould  is 
oftenest  lined  inside  with  a  coating 
of  paste  of  foie  gras  and  then  filled 
with  v2iwfoies  gras  and  seasonings 
covered  and  baked;  to  be  eaten  cold. 
M.  Landry's  dish  above  discribed  is 
of  cooked  foies  gras  and  truffles  in 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


183 


jelly,  in  a  border  mould,  and  is  a  cold 
ornamental  dish.  See  No.  860  of 
this  book. 


ORNAMENTAL  SALT  BLOCKS  OR 
STANDS. 


A  cook  having  either  of  the  fore- 
going named  dishes  in  preparation 
and  having  to  sei-ve  them  entire  at  a 
dinner  party  will  naturally  look 
around  for  some  means  to  elevate  it 
into  a  conspicuosness  corresponding 
to  the  recherche  character  of  the 
composition  and  brings  in  little  bits 
of  scenery  in  the  way  of  perhaps  a 
castle  carved  in  salt,  with  all  sorts  of 
ornamental  details  below  while  the 
top  with  its  towers  and  battlements  is 
so  shaped  that  it  holds  the  dish  of 
timbales,  already  built  up  on  a  double 
crouton  of  bread  fried  brown,  or 
other  foundation;  or  some  slender 
design  of  figures  holding  up  a  stand 
on  which  the  ornamented  "nectar- 
ine" is  suitably  displayed,  bordered 
and  brought  in  contrast  of  colors. 

For  salt  blocks  are  carved  in  selected 


blocks  of  rock  salt,  which  is  semi- 
transparent  and  has  a  reddish  color, 
and  in  the  finest  table  salt  caked  to- 
gether to  the  compactness  and  almost 
the  hardness  of  stone.  A  "trophy 
of  fillets  of  soles"  might  find  a  hand- 
some resting  place  on  top  of  a  rock 
of  rock  salt  carved  into 

A   SEA  CAVERN 
below;   set   upon  glass  with    boats 
and    other   accessories   of    a  cavern 
scene  carved  out  of  the  pure  white 
fine  salt  for  contrast. 

And  when  any  cook  or  set  of 
cooks  have  spent  more  time  and 
pains  on  the  ornamental  stands  than 
the  edible  dishes  have  cost  them,  it  is 
but  natural  for  them  to  carefully 
mention  the  stand  or  socle  in  every 
catalogue,  and  name  their  piece  a 
bastion  of  truffles,  or  a  "nectarine  de 
foies  gras  sur  socle,'''*  A  man  does 
not  want  people  to  fail  to  notice  the 
stand  or  socle  that  he  has  been  work- 
inor  on  of  nic^hts  for  two  weeks  be- 
fore,  merely  because  they  are  eager 
to  sample  the  contents  of  the  upper 
story. 


184 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


Fiir.  I. 


Dominica.ines  de  Volaille. 


By  Mr.  C.  J.  Corblet,  of  London. 


Take  a  dozen  tongue-shaped  moulds  as 
sold  at  the  principal  London  coppersmith's. 
Butter  them,  line  them  with  thin  slices  of 
raw  filleted  chicken  flattened  out,  and  then 
fill  them  up  with  a  galantine  farce  by  means 
of  a  forcing-bag. 

The  farce  is  made  as  follows :  Take  the 
remains  of  the  flesh  of  the  four  chickens 
which  have  already  yielded  the  fillets  for 
lining  the  moulds.  Put  the  chicken  meat 
through  the  sausage  machine,  with  twelve 
ounces  of  white  of  veal,  and  as  much  lard- 
ing bacon;  season  with  salt  and  spices:  and 
pass  through  a  sieve.  Five  large  raw 
truffles  and  five  ounces  of  tongue  (red)  cut 
in  large  short  strips  are  to  be  mixed  in. 
When  the  moulds  are  filled  with  this  mix- 
ture, place  them  in  a  sautd  pan,  and  put 
them  in  a  mild  oven  for  half  an  hour.  When 
cooked,  turn  them  out  on  a  napkin  and  let 


them  get  cold,  trimming  all  the  same  shape. 
Sauce  them  over  with  a  white  supreme 
chaudfroid  sauce,  with  the  exception  of  the 
thick  end,  which  is  to  be  sauced  with  a 
brown  chaudfroid  sauce.  Now  cut  up  in 
cocks'- comb  shape  two  dozen  pieces  of 
very  red  tongue,  and  dip  them  in  some 
aspic  jelly  half  set.  Dish  the  dominicaines 
up  against  a  wooden  stand  covered  over 
with  mutton  fat  spreading  the  fat  with  aspic 
jelly,  so  that  the  edible  shall  not  come  in 
contact  with  the  fat.  Alternate  each  do- 
minicaine  with  one  of  the  pieces  of  tongue, 
filling  the  space  between  the  upper  cup  and 
the  dominicaines  with  the  cocks'- combs 
passed  in  aspic  jelly.  The  upper  cup  should 
be  filled  up  with  a  Russian  salad,  and  at  the 
foot  of  the  stand  on  either  side  must  be 
placed  four  artichoke  bottoms  filled  up  with 
a  vegetable  salad  mixed  with  mayonnaise 
and  decorated  with  aspic  jelly. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


i8e 


A  chaudf  roid  sauce  is  one  that  will 
set  like  jelly  when  cold. 

The  woodcut  representation  above 
gives  an  idea  of  the  appearance  of  an 
ornamental  piece — a  cold  entree  that 
was  awarded  the  prize  of  a  gold 
medal  at  the  French  cooks'  own  ex- 
hibition in  London.  It  is  but  justice 
to  all  concerned  to  say  that  these 
pictures  are  far  less  handsome  than 
the  reality.  It  is  a  piece  that  illus- 
trates completely  the  explanations  of 
the  methods  followed  which  are 
found  in  the  salads  and  cold  dishes 
addition  to  the  AmericanPastry  Cook^ 
No.  8o2J.  It  was  an  original  design, 
but  employed: 

1st.    The  wooden  stand. 

2nd.  The  wax  flower  and  leaf  or- 
naments. 

3rd.  The  figures  of  swans  made 
of  mutton  fat  by  casting  in  metal 
moulds. 

There  are  shops  in  London  where 
a  great  variety  of  moulds  are  kept 
for  such  purposes,  usually  they  are 
of  pewter  and  consist  of  two  parts 
hinged  together.  Some  are  swans, 
some  battle  horses,  some  dragons, 
mermaids,  deer,  lions,  dolphins,  in 
short  anything  that  would  be  suit- 
able to  place  where  the  swans  appear 
in  the  cut  above  can  be  bought  or 
hired.  The  process  is  but  to  fill  them 
with  the  whitest  fat  that  can  be  ob- 
tained, in  a  melted  state,  open  the 
moulds  and  take  the  figures  out  when 
cold. 

Another  sort  of  mould  is  also 
mentioned  in  the  recipe;  tongue- 
shaped  moulds,  and  some  London 
manufacturers  advertise  that  they 
make  any  sort  of  mould  to  suit  new 
designs  and  new  fashions  as  they  are 
required. 

Another  requirement  is  the  wooden 
stand.  The  picture  shows  a  wooden 
stand  of  two  stories,  like  two  cake 
stands  set  one  upon  another,  except 


that  these  are  two  bowls  or  cups  in- 
stead of  flat  stands.  The  whole  of 
the  stand  is  covered  with  mutton  fat 
so  that  the  wood  is  not  perceivable 
but  it  looks  like  a  stand  of  wax.  The 
edible  part  is  built  up  in  the  larger 
bowl  and  ornamented  also  with 
edibles.  It  was  a  symmetrical  object 
and  glistening  with  colored  jellies 
and  meats,  and  colored  salads  above 
the  waxen  wreath  that  borders  the 
large  bowl  might  well  claim  atten- 
tion and  admiration. 

A  few  cooks  will  carry  a  small 
assortment  of  moulds  along  with  them 
when  they  travel  and  if  they  remain 
for  years  in  the  same  city  may  acquire 
a  large  collection ;  this  is  not  the  rule, 
however,  and  when  a  party  is  to  be 
provided  for  on  short  notice  the  cook 
must  either  pick  up  some  such  orna- 
mental objects  as  plaster  images  or 
toy  birds  and  animals  and  make  his 
own  moulds  in  plaster  of  paris,  or 
else  make  designs  that  do  not  require 
moulded  figures,  as  can  well  be  done 
according  to  the  following  showing. 

The  following  is  the  outline  of  a 
piece  that  was  put  up  with  a  large  pat- 
tern of  ornamentation,  suitable  for 
the  purpose  of  these  instructions.  It 
is  a  wooden  stand  in  the  first  place 
covered  first  with  a  smooth  coating 
of  stearine,  then  bordered  and  deco- 
rated with  wax  flowers  and  leaves. 
On  top  of  the  stand  is  a  large  platter 
containing  a  decorated  galantine  of 
turkey. 

To  obtain  the  wooden  stands  apply 
to  a  cabinet  maker,  and  have  them 
made  of  a  size  to  hold  the  dishes  you 
intend  to  use.  There  should  be  a 
rim  of  wooden  hooping  around  the 
edge  both  to  hold  the  dish  and  to 
give  room  for  the  ornaments.  These 
stands  will  very  likely  cost  about  one 
dollar  each.  They  may  be  of  differ- 
ent sizes,  the  stems  measuring  from 
six  to  twelve  inches  in  height. 


186 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


Ficr.   2. 


Galantine  de  Dinde  star  Socle, 

(Boned  Turkey  in  Jellv  on  Wax  Stand,  Mag'nolia  Pattern). 
By  "jessup  Whitehead. 


Served  at  a  terrapin  supper  given  by  Mrs.  Robt.  J.  Lowry  (Miss  Markham),  at  Atlanta,  Ga. 


the    stand,  melt    either 
wax,   or   parrafine,   or 


To  cover 
some    white 

stearine,  or  mutton  tallow,  or  a  mix 
ture  of  wax  and  tallow.  White  wax 
can  be  and  is  used  in  that  way  and  is 
cleanly,  but  it  is  expensive  and  hard 
to  make  a  smooth  surface  with,  on 
account  of  the  high  degree  of  heat 
required  to  keep  it  in  a  melted  state. 
Mutton  fat  mixed  with  wax  is  a  good 
material,  but  better  still  is  the  same 
stearine  that  candles  are  made  of;  it 
does  not  grease  the  fingers  and  has 


no  smell.  Wax  costs  from  fifty  cents 
to  a  dollar  a  pound  while  candles 
can  be  bougt  at  eight  pounds  for  a 
dollar.  Melt  in  a  tin  pan  and  pour 
it  over  the  stand  with  a  spoon.  When 
the  wood  is  everywhere  covered 
hold  the  stand  in  front  of  a  fire, 
turning:  it  about  while  the  surplus  fat 
drips  off  and  leaves  a  smooth,  even 
surface;  then,  when  the  stand  has 
become  cold  and  white  take  a  hot 
knife  and  smooth  off  the  edges  and 
ridges  that  remain. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


187 


Fig.  3- 


Tree    Designs   for    Game 
Pieces. 


But  if  the  design  is  to  be  a  tree 
select  a  natural  bough  from  a  tree  or 
bush,  something  that  branches  hand- 
somely like  a  deer's  horns  with  room 
in  the  forks  to  place  a  piece  of  wood 
as  large  as  a  plate  or  dish.  Set  the 
butt  of  it  in  a  wooden  bottom  like 
that  shown  for  the  other  kind  of 
stand  and  fasten  the  upper  shelf  in 
the  forks  where  the  boar's  head  is  to 
be,  then  proceed  to  coat  over  the 
entire  stand  and  branches  with  stear- 
ine  as  in  the  other  case.  Coral 
branches  and  sea-weed  designs  can 
be  prepared  in  a  similar  manner. 
When  the  stand  is  thus  far  prepared 
proceed  to  cover  it  with  wax  leaves, 
fruit,  berries,  flowers  or  any  orna- 
mental shapes  that  may  suit  the  sub- 
ject; the  tree  stand  may  be  decorated 
with  leaves  and  fruit  on  every  twig. 


Wax  Leaves  and  Flowers. 


The  best  material  for  flowers  and 
leaves  is  white  wax  although  stear- 
ine  answers  very  well  for  some  of  the 


less  delicate  forms.  They  are  made 
by  carving  a  flower  on  a  carrot  or 
turnip  or  potato,  dipping  it  into  melt- 
ed wax  and  taking  off  the  thin  cover- 
ing of  wax  that  the  vegetable  shape 
has  taken  up.  Wax  impressions  are 
thinner  and  finer  than  stearine,  and 
wax  can  be  pulled  gently  off  of  in- 
tricate shapes  where  any  other  ma- 
terial would  break  to  pieces.  Veget- 
ables make  the  best  shapes  because 
wax  will  not  adhere  too  tightly  and 
they  must  be  kept  wet. 

Supposing  Mrs.  Butcher,  men- 
tioned in  the  catalogue  as  having 
special  skill  m  such  work  to  have 
carved  a  white  turnip  into  the  form 
of  a  rose  and  the  end  of  a  carrot  into 
the  shape  and  markings  of  a  rose 
leaf,  the  next  step  would  be  to  throw 
them  into  a  pan  of  water  and  then 
melt  some  white  wax  in  a  tin  cup. 
Take  up  the  turnip  rose,  dip  the  face 
of  it  in  the  wax,  then  immediately 
in  the  cold  water  again  and  a  thin 
pearly  waxen  rose  can  be  pulled  off 
the  vegetable;  dip  the  leaf -shaped 
carrot  the  same  way  and  you  have 
a  waxen  leaf.  The  wax  must  not 
be  very  hot.  When  it  is  cool  enough 
to  be  on  the  point   of   setting,  the 


188 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


leaves  and  flowers  caii  be  made  with 
the  greatest  rapidity,  sometimes  drop- 
ping from  the  shape  of  themselves. 

By  the  same  method  fan-leaves, 
palms,  bells,  grape  bunches,  cups, 
thimbles,  stars,  faces,  animals'  heads, 
spear  heads,  cornices  and  mouldings 
can  be  made  in  great  variety  within 
certain  restrictions  which  will  soon 
be  discovered  upon  trial,  such  as  the 
impracticability  of  making  a  round 
ball-shaped  flower,  unless  in  two 
halves. 

It  is  best  for  a  beginner  to  make 
a  large  number  of  very  small  flowers 
and  leaves  at  first  instead  of  large 
and  heavy  ones,  the  light  ones  being 
easy  to  fasten  in  place  and  less  liable 
to  fall  off  or  be  broken  through  pro- 
jecting too  far  from  the  stand. 


To  Decorate  the   Stands. 

The  flowers  and  leaves  are  fastened 
in  place  by  melting  a  little  stearine 
upon  them,  hold  a  rose  to  its  place 
with  the  fingers  of  one  hand  while 
the  other  applies  the  point  of  a  hot 
knife  to  the  place  of  contact.  They 
may  also  be  dipped  in  melted  stear- 
ine and  pressed  in  place  while  it  sets. 
Heavy  ornaments  require  tape  stems 
to  be  attached  to  support  them  on 
the  edge  of  the  stand. 

It  is  scarcely  possible  to  improve 
upon  the  appearance  of  a  well  exe- 
cuted wax  stand  in  pure  pearly  white, 
yet  colored  wax  can  be  used  and 
colored  flowers  made  by  the  same 
methods.  The  material  of  which  the 
colored  candles  on  Christmas  trees 
are  made  is  suitable  for  the  purpose. 
Wax  stands  with  colored  ornaments 
are  suitable  for  comic  designs  like 
pigs  in  dress  coats,  and  similar  notions. 


Galantines  and  Aspics. 

Directions  for  preparing  and  or- 
namenting galantines  and  apics  de 
foies-gras  have  been  given  at  Nos. 
853,  860,  and  943,  and  methods  of 
ornamenting  with  colored  jellies  at 
No.  692  and  succeeding  numbers. 
Very  particular  directions  for  larger 
operations  can  also  be  found  in  the 
cold  dishes  department  in  the  Amer- 
ican Pastry  Cook.  The  ordinary 
galantine  moulds  are  tin  pans  made 
oval  instead  of  round  and  of  sizes 
that  run  about  one  inch  difference  in 
diameter.  But  any  other  shape  can 
be  used  as  well  if  it  only  corresponds 
with  the  stand.  A  very  fine  supper 
with  decorated  dishes  has  been  set 
where  nothing  but  the  common  round 
glass  cake  stands  were  available ;  but 
a  number  of  them  were  covered  with 
melted  wax  and  then  smothered  in 
wax  flowers  till  they  had  not  the 
slightest  semblance  of  a  glass  cake 
stand,  and  they  required  meat  dishes 
and  raised  pies  to  be  of  round  shape 
to  match.  , 


Broad  Blocks   and  Crous- 
tades. 


In  order  to  elevate  a  galantine 
into  suflficient  prominence  above  the 
ornaments  a  bread  "block"  may  be 
employed  or  cake  of  cooked  rice, 
according  to  the  subject.  Cut  the 
bread  to  fit  the  dish,  fry  it  in  a  kettle 
of  oil  or  lard  to  a  handsome  light 
brown  color.  When  cold  dip  it 
several  times  in  bright  jelly  keeping 
it  in  ice  between  each  dipping  till  a 
good  coat  of  jelly  remains  upon  it, 
place  it  in  the  dish  and  turn  the  de- 
corated galantine  out  of  its  mould  on 
top  of  it. 

A  very  handsome  dish  or  terrine 
of  pdte-de-foie-gras  can  be  made  ii. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


189 


this  way.  Prepare  a  decorated  stand 
with  wax  leaves  and  flowers.  Cut 
three  or  four  blocks  of  bread  of  dif- 
ferent sizes  to  make  a  pyramid  and 
fry  them  to  a  nice  deep  yellow  color 
and  place  them  in  their  dish.  Have 
some  bright  aspic  jelly  ready  and 
chop  it  quite  fine.  Take  a  pan  of 
liver  paste  (No.  S6o  will  do  for  the 
purpose)  and  cut  out  pieces  with 
spoons  made  hot  in  boiling  water. 
The  spoon  will  shape  the  liver  paste 
like  the  half  of  an  q^^  cut  length- 
wise. As  fast  as  cut  out  dredge 
them  with  the  minced  jelly,  then 
place  them  around  on  the  steps  of 
the  fried  bread  pyramid,  covering  it 
very  nearly,  and  between  the  points 
insert  triangular  blocks  of  colored 
jelly  and  decorate  with  lemon  baskets 
garnished  with  sprigs  of  parsley. 


Make  Allowance  for  Heat. 


Much  vexation  and  trouble  over- 
takes every  inexperienced  hand  who 
makes  no  allowance  for  the  effects 
of  a  heated  supper  room  upon  the 
jellies  which  his  refrigerator  has  kept 
in  such  a  pleasant  state  of  solidity, 


but  after  one  or  two  catastrophes 
caused  by  the  build-up  dishes  melt- 
ing down  like  snow  in  the  sun  the 
workman  learns  to  make  his  goods 
doubly  firm  with  plenty  of  gelatine 
to  withstand  the  ordeal  of  a  gas-lit 
and  crowded  hall. 


The  Boar's  Head. 

In  the  United  States  we  have  little 
or  nything  to  do  with  the  perpetua- 
tion of  ancient  customs  and  have 
little  sympathy  of  sentiment  with 
them  that  have.  We  are  too  ready 
to  throw  a  wet  blanket  on  every 
exhibition  of  the  ancient  fires  by 
asking  and  continually  asking :  *' What 
is  the  use  of  it?" 

We  are  so  accustomed  to  looking 
forward,  to  "  the  millions  yet  to  be," 
to  the  new,  to  the  cities  which  are 
springing  up  without  permission  from 
anybody,  that  we  have  forgotten 
about  such  things  as  the  ancient 
granting  of  city  charters  by  kings 
and  barons  with  tributary  conditions 
imposed,  such  as  the  presenting  of  a 
peacock,  or  a  huge  blackbird  pie,  or 
a  boar's  head  to  the  suzeraine  on  a 


190 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


certain  day  each  year;  and  find  it 
hard  to  enter  into  the  solemn  sort  of 
fun  which  the  very  respectable  and 
reverend  seat  of  English  learning, 
Oxford  College,  enjoys  as  an  annual 
custom.  A  little  better  understand- 
ing of  the  symbolism  of  some  of  the 
designs  would  make  even  the  exhi- 
bition of  artistic  cookery  at  the 
cook's  annual  banquets  far  more 
interesting  than  they  are. 


THE      OXFORD      BOAR'S      HEAD 
DINNER. 

The  boar's  head  dinner  at  Queen's 
College,  Oxford,  on  Christmas  Day  is  a 
survival  of  a  custom  once  prevalent  in  all 
England.  In  1678,  Aubrey  wrote:  "In 
gentlemen's  houses  at  Christmas,  the  first 
dish  that  was  brought  to  table  was  a  boar's 
head,  with  a  lemon  in  his  mouth."  There 
is  an  account  of  an  Essex  parish,  called 
Homchurch,  in  which  the  inhabitants  paid 
the  great  tithes  on  Christmas  Day,  and 
were  treated  with  a  bull  and  a  brawn.  The 
boar's  head  was  wrestled  for  by  the  peasants 
on  that  occasion,  and  then  feasted  upon. 
It  would  be  easy  to  multiply  instances. 

At  half-past  six  o'clock  in  the  afternoon 
of  Christmas  Day,  the  Hall  of  Queens 
College  was  filled  by  persons  anxious  to 
witness  the  time-honoured  ceremony  of  the 
Boar's  Head  procession.  The  hall  was 
liberally  adorned  with  greenery,  and  a 
monstrous  fire  created  a  welcome  tempera- 
ture. Although  the  weather  was  damp  and 
foggy,  by  six  o'clock  the  picturesque  old 
hall  presented  an  animated  appearance, 
filled  nearly  to  overflowing  with  a  crowd 
of  merr}  faces ;  the  dark  tone  of  the  gentle- 
men's clothing  and  the  bright  bits  of  colour 
of  the  ladies'  showed  up  very  effectually 
against  the  old  oaken  wainscoating.  The 
boar's  head,  which  was  provided  and  dished 
up  by  Mr.  Wm.  H.  Horn,  the  College 
manciple,  was  a  splendid  specimen,  weigh- 
ing seventy  pounds,  and  was  decorated 
with  the  proverbial  "bays  and  rosemary," 
and  surmounted  with  a  crown  and  flags 
bearing  the  College  arms.  Upon  the 
sound  of  the  trumpet,  at  the  head  of  the 
procession  of  singing  men  and  choristers, 
marched  the  Rev.  Robt  Powley,  M.  A., 
Curate  of  Cowlev,  who  took  the  solo  part 
in  the  "  Boar's  rfead  Carol :" 


j  The  Boar's  head  in  hand  bear  I. 

Bedecked  with  bays  and  rosemary, 
And  I  pray  you,  masters,  merry  be, 
Quotquot  estis  in  convivio. 
Chorus. 
Caput  Apri  defero, 
Redden  iaudes  Domino. 

The  Boar's  head,  as  I  understand, 
Is  the  bravest  dish  in  the  land; 
Being'  thus  decket  with  g^ay  garland, 
Let  us  servire  cantico. 
Chorus. 
Our  Steward  has  provided  this 
In  honour  of  the  King  of  Bliss, 
Which  on  this  day  to  be  served  is 
In  Reginensi  Atro. 

Chorus. 
Wynkin  de  Worde's  carol  (printed  in 
1 521)  was,  of  course,  much  quainter,  espe- 
cially verse  three : 

Be  gladde,  lordes,  both  more  and  lesse, 
For  this  hath  ordeyned  our  stewarde 

To  chere  you  all  this  Christmasse, 
The  Boar's  heed  with  mustarde. 

A  distribution  of  leaves  which  garnished 
the  dish  was  then  made  by  the  Provost  (Dr. 
Magrath).  The  custom  of  serving  up  the 
boar's  head  at  Queen's  College  has  been  ob- 
served for  about  500  years,  one  authority 
quoting  1350  as  being  the  probable  year  of 
the  first  festival. — London  Caterer. 

The  man  whose  office  requires 
him  to  provide  a  boar's  head  in  the 
orthodox  fashion  for  such  an  occasion 
as  that  described,  be  he  "manciple" 
steward  or  cook,  must  feel  a  greater 
importance  attaching  to  the  task  than 
if  it  were  the  most  elaborate  of  tran- 
sient party  dinners.  A  dozen  or 
more  of  boar's  heads  were  shown  at 
the  London  Exhibition.  They  are 
equally  prominent  in  continental  dis- 
plays. The  narratives  of  continental 
history  as  well  as  fiction  abound  in 
recitals  of  wild  boar  hunts,  in  the 
Forest  of  Ardennes,  in  France,  the 
Black  Forest,  in  Germany.  A  boar's 
head  a  la  St.  Hubert  is  among  the 
highest  achievements  a  chef  in  orna- 
mental work  can  set  himself  to 
accomplish.  St.  Hubert  is  the  patron 
saint  of  hunters.  The  piece  is  a 
boar's  head,  the  bones  taken  out, 
stuffed,  cooked,  set  up  in  the  likeness 
of  life,  glazed,  ornamented,  placed 
upon  a  stand,  set  amongst  waxen  or 
silver-plated  branches  of  a  tree, 
decorated   with   bays    and    hunting 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


191 


horns  and  spears  and  heads  of  hounds. 
The  carcass  of  a  real  wild  boar  from 
the  Black  Forest  was  displayed  at 
the  Exhibition,  much  as  a  grizzly 
bear  from  the  Rocky  Mountains 
might  be  displayed  in  this  country. 
It  was  an  object  of  curiosity  and 
interest  and  was  immediately  pur- 
chased by  the  steward  of  a  large 
establishment. 


BOAR'S  HEAD  GALANTINES. 


For  practice  in  putting  up  a  boar's 
head  the  beginner  should  bone  and 
cook  pigs'  heads  to  serve  cold,  until 
he  has  become  familiar  with  the 
methods  of  making  them  good  and 
of  putting  them  in  shape.  One  or 
two  heads  a  week  would  be  esteemed 
a  luxury  in  any  hotel  among  the 
regular  cold  dishes.  For  there  was 
no  foolishness  about  the  ancient  lik- 
ing for  a  hogs  head  and  it  is  con- 
sidered as  good  eating  to-day  as  it 
ever  was,  but  requires  a  good  deal 
of  the  cook.  It  must  be  partly  salted, 
it  must  have  the  superabundant  fat 
cut  out  and  lean  and  brawn  supplied 
instead;  it  must  be  carefully  seasoned 
and  cojked  until  perfectly  tender 
and  the  liquor  it  is  boiled  in  is  jelly. 
Choose  a  large  head  for  the  purpose 
and  a  small  one  to  stuff  it  with.  Cut 
it  as  far  back  as  the  shoulder  bones 
of  the  hog  to  get  as  much  of  the 
neck  as  possible.  Begin  at  the  throat 
and  cut  the  meat  from  the  bone 
without  cutting  through  the  skin; 
take  out  the  tongue,  put  them  both 
into  the  corned  beef  brine  (No.  650) 
to  remain  two  or  three  days.  Then 
take  them  out,  wash  and  trim,  and 
cut  away  all  the  fat  of  the  jowls. 
Sew  up  the  mouth  and  throat.  Place 
the  small  head  similarly  boned  and 
prepared  inside  the  large  one,  fill  in 
with  tongues  cut  in  strips  and  some 
well    seasoned    pork    sausage    meat, 


cover  in  the  neck  with  the  rind  of 
pickled  pork,  then  sew  the  stuffed 
head  in  a  cloth,  boil  it  four  or  five 
hours,  take  it  up  and  press  it  in  a 
suitable  mould  and  set  it  away  to 
become  cold.  After  that  take  off 
the  cloth,  remove  the  threads  and 
slice  the  meat  to  serve. 


TO  MAKE  AN  ORNAMENTAL  DISH. 

It  is  not  essential  that  a  boar's  head 
shall  always  be  set  up  with  ears  erect 
and  mouth  open,  it  may  be  a  smooth 
rounded  dish  of  meat  only  having 
the  general  outline  of  the  head  shape, 
and  to  form  it  that  way  it  is  neces- 
sary to  take  the  cooked  head  out  of 
the  cloth  it  was  boiled  in  when  it  is 
nearly  cold,  then  take  a  long  muslin 
bandage  and  wrap  around  it,  draw- 
ing tight  in  one  place  and  slack  in 
another  to  give  the  head  the  proper 
form,  then  set  it  in  the  refrigerator 
to  become  solid  in  that  shape.  After- 
wards, take  off  the  bandage,  wipe 
off  with  a  cloth  dipped  in  hot  water, 
then  glaze  the  head  by  frequent 
basting  with  jelly  in  a  cold  place 
until  it  is  covered,  or,  glazed  with 
meat  essence,  and-  ornament  with 
cubes  and  patterns  in  aspic. 


AS  NATURAL  AS  LIFE. 


"Rosemary  and  bays"  always 
mentioned  in  connection  with  the 
boar's  head,  belong  to  that  dish  by 
association  as  holly  belongs  to  Christ- 
mas. They  are  both  used  for  sea 
sonmg  as  well  as  for  green  decora- 
tions. Rosemary  is  a  herb  that  looks 
like  pine  leaves  and  has  a  flavor  like 
a  mixture  of  sage  and  spruce  fir. 
Season  the  boar's  head  that  is  to  be 
put  up  in  shape  with  rosemary  and 
bay  leaves  powdered,  instead  of  the 
customary  sage.  To  form  the  head 
as    natural    as    life  and    even  moie 


192 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


ferocious  looking  it  is  best  to  employ 
a  plaster  mould  which  can  be  made 
shortly  before  it  is  to  be  used  and 
will  serve  for  many  repetitions.  It 
is  to  be  observed  that  the  wild  boar 
carries  a  high  and  bristly  forehead 
and  the  mould  is  to  be  managed  so 
as  to  throw  the  top  of  the  head  into 
prominence  instead  of  the  fat  jowls 
of  common  hogs.  Choose  a  head  of 
a  large  porker  to  make  a  cast  from. 
It  is  not  advisable  to  have  the  mould 
too  large  because  the  cooked  head 
shrinks  so  much  it  is  difficult  to 
thoroughly  fill  a  large  mould.  Hav- 
ing the  raw  head  cut  off  with  all  the 
neck  belonging,  cut  off  the  ears, 
place  it  snout  downwards  and  resting 
on  the  bottom  in  a  tin  pail  or  five 
gallon  tin  lard  can.  Get  half  a 
bushel  of  plaster  of  paris,  which 
costs  about  seventy-five  cents  at  the 
cement  stores,  stir  it  up  with  water 
to  a  thin  paste  and  pour  it  around 
the  head  in  the  pail.  In  half  an 
hour  the  plaster  sets  and  becomes 
solid,  but  leave  it  alone  several  hours, 
and  then  the  head  can  be  drawn  out 
and  you  have  a  plaster  mould  of  it. 
Perhaps  the  mould  can  be  improved 
in  shape  by  scraping  down  with  a 
knife,  and  the  bottom  of  the  pail  or 
can  should  be  cut  through  that  the 
snout  of  the  cooked  head  may  be 
drawn  in. 

Prepare  a  salted  head  with  stuffing 
as  before  directed,  leave  the  ears  on 
and  lay  them  flat  on  the  top  of  the 
head.  Sew  up  the  head  in  muslin 
closely  wrapped  and  without  any 
thick  folds  or  knots.  Boil  four  hours, 
take  up  and  let  drain  and  partly  cool 
off,  then  place  it  still  in  the  cloth  in 
the  mould,  taking  care  that  the  ears 
are  in  the  right  place  and  the  .snout 
goes  well  to  the  bottom.  In  that 
position  with  the  neck  above  the  top 
of  the  mould,  place  weight  upon  it 
and  leave  it  in  press  in  a  cold  place 


for  twelve  hours.  It  can  be  with- 
drawn from  the  mould  easily  by 
means  of  the  cloth,  which  is  then  to 
be  taken  off,  the  head  wiped  off  with 
a  cloth  in  warm  water,  the  ears 
raised  up,  softened  with  a  hot  cloth, 
shaped  as  wanted  and  upheld  by  a 
small  silver  skewer  in  each;  the 
mouth  opened  and  tusks  inserted; 
bead  eyes  put  in  and  the  head  glazed 
and  ornamented. 

The  tusks  finely  curved  may  be 
obtained  from  almost  any  hog's  head. 
Find  one  with  small  tusks  projecting, 
boil  the  jaw  bones,  then  break  the 
bones  with  a  hammer  about  the 
roots  and  the  tusks  will  be  found 
three  or  four  inches  long. 


Decorated  Cakes. 


There  is  evidently  a  laborious 
effort  to  discover  something  mar- 
velous to  put  upon  a  cake  when  a 
resort  is  had  to  flexible  glass,  satin 
sashes,  panel  paintings  and  various 
sorts  of  millinery  in  addition  to  the 
plaster  of  paris  and  gum  paste  figures 
and  structures  which  are  perennial  as 
cake  ornaments.  These  things  come 
high  but  they  must  have  them  at  the 
London  Exhibitions  and  they  do  not 
interest  pastry  cooks  and  bakers 
much  because  all  such  methods  are 
outside  of  their  trade.  When  a  cake 
has  to  be  carried  to  the  glass-blow- 
er's, the  landscape  gardener's,  the 
upholsterer's,  the  milliner's,  the  image 
maker's,  and  the  painter's  places,  the 
baker  may  throw  his  slipper  after  it 
for  luck  but  he  need  not  go  with  it. 
It  is  none  of  his  work  to  do. 

There  were  prize  medals  offered 
for  the  best  decorated  Christmas 
cake  and  best  wedding  cake,  and 
Messrs.  Newton  &  Eskell,  proprie- 
tors of  the  Caterer  offered  a  special 
prize  in  that  department.     This  was 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


193 


awarded  to  a  firm  of  "  country  cate- 
rers," from  Leamington,  who  came 
to  the  great  city  and  took  the  premi- 
um with  a  cake  that  was  remarkable 
for  its  elaborate  piping  in  sugar 
icing,  which  is  true  pastry  cook's  and 
confectioner's  work;  and  the  gem  of 
the  exhibition  in  bride  cakes  is  said 


beyond  the  sphere  of  the  w^orkman 
who  makes  the  cake  to  carry  it  to 
such  a  completion.  It  is  a  trade  to 
itself  to  make  the  gum  paste  struc- 
tures with  altars  and  leaves  and 
flowers  which  we  see  exhibited  for 
sale  under  glass  cases  at  the  confec- 
tioners in  every  large  city.      Pastry 


Cake  Decoration  in  IVhite  Icins. 


BY    JESSLP     WHITEHEAD. 


(From  a  Fhoiograph.') 

to    have    been   one    decorated  with  i  cooks  can  make  a  few  flowers  on  the 
real    hot-house    flowers    relieved  by  •  spur  of  necessity,  but  very  few  can 


delicate  green  ferns,  and  if  the  cake 
itself  was  already  ornamented  in 
icing  it  must  have  been  a  beautiful 
object  and  not  too  far  removed  from 
common  ideas  of  edibility,  and  not 


make  them  as  perfectly  as  those  do 
who  never  do  any  other  work  but 
make  flowers. 

The  instructions  here  to  be  given 
are  for  designs  in  pure  sugar  icing, 


194 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


practice  in  which  will  lead  the 
learner  on  to  a  trial  of  all  the  addi- 
tional branches. 

The  engraving  on  the  preceding 
page  shows  the  design  of  cake  deco- 
rated in  the  Grecian  style  that  once 
came  under  the  powerful  protection 
of  no  less  a  person  than  General 
Grant,  whose  interference  prolonged 
its  existence  at 
least  two  days. 
The  hand  that 
was  extended  to 
make  a  breach 
in  the  upper 
works  was  Mrs. 
Grant's.  That 
serene  lady 
would  have 
broken  off  one 
of  the  white 
birds  which 
were  hovering 
in  the  act  of  sip- 
ping the  crim- 
son jelly  in  the 
glasses.  The 
general  put  his 
hand  on  hers 
and  pushed  it 
aside  saying: 
"Don't  break 
that."  "I  want 
to  try  the  con- 
fectionery,"said 
the  lady. 

"There  is  plenty  without — don't 
break  it — ,"  said  he  again ;  and  it  was 
saved  to  appear  again  next  day  ivith 
sections  cut  out  of  both  the  lower  cake 
and  the  upper  one  on  two  sides,  the 
cake  sliced  and  part  of  the  slices 
replaced,  and  all  was  done  ivithout 
breaking  the  ornamentation^  which 


requires  but  a  small  foundation  to 
stand  upon.  The  lower  cake  was 
made  by  the  recipe  No.  836,  the 
upper  was  a  white  citron  cake. 

Over  the  top  of  the  pyramid,  which 
was  all  pure  white  and  lace-like,  was 
thrown  a  long  and  slender  vine  of 
I  Virginia  creeper,  much   handsomer 
i  than    smilax    because    of    the    finely 
tapering  grada- 
tions of  the  leaf 
sizes,  and  these 
were  just  turned 
to  vivid    colors 
by  the  touch  of 
the  first  October 
frost.*) 

This  is  a  pic- 
ture of  the  cake 
that  was  made 
and  ornamented 
in  haste  and 
under  difficul- 
ties for  the 
wedding  of  the 
banker's  daugh- 
ter, as  hurriedly 
sketched  at  No. 
941.  It  took 
about  four  hours 
of  a  summer 
night  to  put  up 
^^  those  ornaments 
in  sugar  icing. 
There  were,  of 
course,  more 
people  concerned  in  that  wedding 
than  it  was  business  of  mine  to  men- 
tion at  such  a  hard-working  time, 
and  among  them  was  the  young 
lady's  father,  the  banker  himself; 
and  when  the  table  was  set  and  the 
time  was  right  to  bring  along  the 
wedding  presents  he  walked  up  and 


*  [That  was  perhaps  the  happiest  period  of  General  Grant's  life.  He  was  spending-  a  week  with 
his  family  and  officers  of  his  staff  and  their  wives  at  the  Maniton  House,  Manitou  Springes,  Colorado. 
He  loved  that  locality,  this  was  his  third  visit  to  it;  it  was  in  the  third  vear  of  his  first  term  as  President, 
an  office  of  which  he'  was  wi-arv  and  he  delig^hted  the  people  of  Manitou  villag-e  by  declarin^^  his  intention 
of  returning'  and  making  his  home  there  when  his  term  was  ended.  He  went  around  the  world  after 
that  and  after  all  he  visited  Manitou  once  more,  though  only  for  a  day,  when  on  his  way  to  Leadviile, 
where  he  had  thought  of  investing  in  the  mines.] 


OOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


195 


Decorated  Cake  Center-Piece  on  a  SilTcr  Dish. 

•  Height  about  sYtft. 

Served  at  a  private  supper  tendered  to  General  U.  S,  Grant  by  Governor  Tabor  at  Leadville,  Colo. 
The  baskets  and  spaces  filled  up  with  a  various  assortment  of  the  lig-htest  Italian  cakes,  macaroons, 
meringues,  and  bon-bons  and  the  whole  festooned  with  smilax. 


196 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


took  out  of  his  breast  pocket  the  title 
deed  to  a  forty-thousand-dollar  house 
and  lot  in  Lakeport,  made  out  in  his 
daughter's  name;  he  rolled  up  the 
document  and  placed  it  under  the 
lid  of  the  basket  and  left  it  there. 
The  hostess  put  into  the  basket  on 
top  a  silver  thimble  and  the  host  put 
in  a  gold  pencil  case,  then  the  children 
climbed  on  chairs  and  filled  the  basket 
and  all  the  spaces  with  white  flowers 


which  they  had  been  out  at  sunrise 
to  all  the  neighbours'  gardens  to 
gather.  When  the  bride  came  to 
cut  the  cake  she  shed  tears  on  the 
flowers,  hung  the  pencil  case  on  her 
watch-chain,  put  the  thimble  on  her 
finger  and  tucked  the  title  deed  down 
in  the  bosom  of  her  dress.  And 
the  children  ate  both  the  basket  and 
the  pedestal  because  it  was  all  sugar 
and  flavored  with  lemon. 


Cake   Decoration    in   ^''hite   Icingr. 


BY   JESSUP   WHITEHEAD. 


From   a    P holograph. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


197 


Height  about  j  feet. 
Cake  Decoration    in   IVhite   Idnflr. 


BY    JESSUP     WHITEHEAD. 


Cake  Center  Piece,  Stand  for  Small  Sweets,  to  gfo  with  Floral  Decorations, 
given  by  Mrs.  R.  J.  Lowry,  Atlanta,  Georgia. 


Served  at  a  terrapin  supper 


This  pattern  has  been  redrawn 
large  and  distinct  to  show  the  details 
plainly  for  the  purpose  of  this  article. 
The  photographer  remarked  that  "  it 
was  a  daisy,"  and  he  squared  himself 
three  or  four  different  ways  to  get 
the  best  expression  of  it.     The  pure 


white  and  fragile  structure  was  orna- 
mented with  bright  colored  sugar 
flowers  set  upon  it  and  around  the 
edges  and  in  the  spaces.  It  was  an 
ornamented  cake  made  to  serve  as  a 
center  piece  among  some  elaborate 
floral  decorations  at  a  party  supper 


198 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


given  by  a  lady  of  Atlanta,  Georgia. 
The  design  was  Jinishcd  for  the 
purpose  by  having"  the  stands  and 
baskets  filled  up  with  bonbons^  maca- 
roons^ kisses,  and  the  lightest  kinds 
of  fancy  small  cakes,  and  was  hung 
with  trailing  sprays  of  smilax.  In 
such  positions  these  tall  pieces  harmo- 
nize most  perfectly  with  floral  deco- 
rations, the  effect  of  which  they 
highten  without  being  too  obtrusive 
and  without  the  least  suggestion  of 
children's  play-house  figures  such  as 
attaches  to  the  gum  paste  temples 
and  pavilions  of  the  ordinary  style. 


HOW    THEY    ARE   MADE. 


For  a  single  stand  take  two  sheets 
of  note  paper  and  keeping  them 
doubled  as  they  are,  cut  out  a  scroll 
pattern  with  a  pair  of  scissors,  which 
when  opened  out  will  be  like  this: 


Fig.  5. 
Cut  them  apart  down  the  back  and 
you  have  four  paper  patterns  like  that 
on  the  left  side  of  the  cut.  Take  a 
tin  plate  and  melt  some  white  wax 
and  mutton  tallow  in  equal  parts,  dip 
the  paper  patterns  in  it  and  lay  them 
each  one  on  a  separate  piece  of  board 


or  a  shinsfle.     Then   mix 


up 


stiff  icing  (directions  at  No.  464)  and 
lay   a   piping   border    on    the    edge 


around  the  outline  of  the  pattern; 
use  a  star  piping  tube  and  lay  a 
wreath  pattern  on  the  waxed  paper 
as  shown  at  the  right  of  the  cut,  ob- 
serving that  as  the  extremely  light 
and  graceful  effect  of  these  designs 
is  largely  due  to  the  spaces  left  be- 
tween the  piping,  the  icing  must  not 
be  run  together  nor  placed  too  close. 
As  fast  as  they  are  done  place  them 
to  dry  in  some  such  place  as  inside  an 
oven  after  the  fire  has  gone  out. 
When  dry  turn  them  over,  warm 
them  till  the  wax  begins  to  melt  and 
then  pull  of  the  paper  pattern.  Now 
repeat  the  same  pattern  of  icing  ^  on 
this  side  where  the  paper  was  and 
when  that  is  dry  and  hard  on  all 
four  you  have  the  four  scrolls  to  set 
up  as  a  support  for  the  basket. 


To  fasten  them  together  so  that 
they  will  stand  square  and  perpen- 
dicular it  is  necessary  to  procure  a 
small  goods  box  and  break  off  one 
side  with  one  end  attached.  Lay 
two  of  the  pieces  on  the  wood  as  at 
figure  5,  but  a  quarter  inch  space 
between  them,  lay  some  icing  on  the 
edges,  then  place  a  third  one  on  edge 
on  top  of  them  and  all  three  touch- 
ing the  end  piece  of  the  board,  which 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


190 


is  upright  and  acts  as  a  square,  and 
set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  dry  again 
while  you  work  on  another  part. 
When  dry  set  it  upright  and  place 
the  fourth  side  in  place;  it  will  stand 
with  no  support  but  a  touch  of  icing; 
and  when  again  dry  the  stand  thus 
far  made  can  be  set  upon  the  cake. 

To  make  baskets  or  brackets  use 
shallow  plates  or  jelly  cake  pans 
'waxed  over  and  cover  them  with 
piping,  the  more  open  and  lace-like 
the  better.  Ornament  the  outer 
edges  as  cakes  are  piped,  and  when 
thoroughly  dry  warm  the  plate  till 
the  thin  coating  of  wax  that  it  was 
dipped  in  melts  and  the  shape  of 
icing  can  be  lifted  off  and  placed  on 
its  stand.  The  handle  of  the  basket 
can  be  formed  on  a  piece  of  tin  bent 
to  a  bow  shape.  Make  it  in  two 
pieces  with  broad  foundations,  set 
them  up  on  the  basket  and  fasten  the 
middle  with  some  icing  and  a  rose 
and  leaves. 

To  build  such  a  design  two  or 
three  stories  high  use  a  sheet  of 
foolscap  for  the  lower  pattern  and  a 
sheet  of  note  paper  for  the  next,  or, 
let  each  upper  stand  be  one-third 
smaller  than  that  below  it. 

The  patterns  can  be  varied  and 
multiplied  according  to  the  ingenuity 
and  patience  of  the  operator.  The 
pieces  are  fragile  yet  will  bear  a 
heavy  weight  of  flowers,  cakes  and 
fruit  carefully  placed.  It  is  said  of 
these  objects  that  they  are  fresh  and 
new — the  people  have  seen  all  sorts 
of  ornamented  cakes  all  over  the 
country,  but  all  more  or  less  alike, 
but  never  saw  any  like  these,  and 
that  is  where  the  advantage  is  gained, 
as  one  can  be  made  for  every*  table 
in  a  dining  room  and  each  of  a  dif- 
ferent form,  without  any  very  great 
expenditure  of  time,  when  we  are  in 
practice. 

To  make  icing  tougher  and   less 


liable  to  break  add  gelatine  dissolved, 
or  gum  arable,  and  for  further  in- 
structions for  such  as  have  had  no 
practice  the  American  Pastry  Cook 
should  be  consulted  and  directions 
compared  before  any  work  is  under- 
taken that  might  lead  to  failure  at  a 
time  when  success  should  be  assured. 


PATTERNS  ON  TINFOIL. 


Tinfoil  paper  such  as  tobacco  and 
similar  merchandise  is  wrapped  in 
can  be  used  instead  of  the  waxed 
paper  recommended  in  foregoing 
directions.  Lay  a  covering  of  tinfoil 
on  the  outside  of  a  bowl  turned  up- 
side down,  lay  a  piping  pattern  on  it 
for  a  basket  or  other  object;  let  it 
dry  and  turn  right  side  up  and  after 
removing  gently  from  the  bowl  the 
tinfoil  can  be  carefully  picked  away 
as  the  icing  does  not  adhere  to  it. 
The  learner  can  practice  both  ways 
and  decide  for  himself  which  he  has 
most  success  with. 


RAISED   BORDER  ORNAMENTS. 


Palisade  or  garden  fence  patterns 
of  icing  to  set  around  a  cake  can  be 
made  as  directed  for  the  bowed 
basket  handles.  Make  a  hoop  of 
tin  and  wax  it  with  mixed  wax  ^nd 
mutton  fat,  set  it  on  a  board  and 
make  the  pattern  upon  it  in  panels  or 
pieces  divided  at  convenient  distances. 
When  dry  take  off  the  pieces  by 
warming  the  tin,  and  set  the  border 
around  the  edge  of  the  cake.  The 
tin  hoop  must  of  course  be  made  to 
fit  the  cake. 

Another  way  requiring  more  prac- 
tice and  a  steady  hand  is  to  take  a 
cake  already  iced  over  and  quite  dry, 
turn  it  upside  down  upon  something 
like  a  gallon  tomato  can,  then   with 


200 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


your  piping  tube  hang  a  loop  or 
fringe  border  all  round  the  edge. 
Dry  that  and  then  put  on  another 
row  of  loop  border,  and  continue  till 
you  have  four  or  five  tiers.     Let  it 


get  perfectly  dry  and  then  turn  the 
cake  right  side  up  and  if  you  have 
no  accident  you  have  a  raised  lace- 
work  border  around  the  cake  which 
raises  a  wonder  as  to  how  it  was  done. 


Pyramids   of  Small   Cakes. 

Height  20  to  24  inches. 


Have  a  tin  shape  made  like  that 
on  the  left,  with  a  wired  rim  on  the 
bottom  to  keep  it  firm  and  several 
tin  circles  also  rimmed  to  keep  them 
from  yielding  and  breaking  the 
pyramid,  and  have  them  large  enough 
to  lift  easily  without  binding  on  the 
shape.  Cover  the  tin  circle  on  the 
edge  with  a  lace  cake  paper  and  slip 
over  the  top.  Grease  the  pyramid 
shape  and  then  build  up  lady  fingers. 


almond  fingers,  meringues,  cocoanut 
caramels  or  anything  of  the  sort  by 
dipping  the  edges  in  melted  clear 
candy,  or  in  cake  icing.  When  set 
lift  the  pyramid  off  the  shape,  still 
resting  on  the  tin  ring  and  place  it  on 
a  cake  stand.  The  most  beautiful 
object  of  this  sort  is  a  pyramid 
of  kiss  meringues  perfectly  made, 
and  covered  with  a  veil  of  spun 
sugar. 


Another  Exhibition. 


The  London  managers  while  yet 
sore  over  the  unsatisfactory  results  of 
this  one  are  asking  each  other  if 
there  shall  be  another  and  they  are 
disposed  to  answer  yes.  However 
that  may  come  out  there  will  probably 


be  such  an  exhibition  opened  in  the 
United  States  and  it  will  be  success- 
ful for  it  will  be  arranged  and  carried 
out  by  hotel-keeping  men  for  the 
furtherance  of  hotel  -  keeping  inter- 
ests. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


201 


There  are  two  distinct  classes  of 
cooks  and  two  different  lines  of  cook- 
ing, they  are  the  chefs  who  cook  for 
my  lord  the  Marquis  of  Carrabas  and 
his  noble  compeers  on  the  one  side, 
and  the  chefs  who  manage  large 
kitchens  and  numerous  subordinates 
and  who  count  the  meals  they  send 
out  by  the  thousands  a  day  on  the 
other,  and  the  American  Cookery 
Exhibition  will  regard  the  latter  cla^s 
and  their  work  as  the  matter  of 
greatest  public  interest  and  will 
stimulate  them  to  seek  methods  of 
greater  variety  and  perfection  in 
serving  the  complete  individual  din- 
ners of  the  modern  hotel  and  restau- 
rant system.  There  were  ideas  in 
the  London  exhibition  which  will 
perhaps  have  to  be  brought  over  to 
this  side  for  development.  There 
was  the  national  dinner  idea  but  too 
pinched  and  narrow;  the  prize  table 
setting,  but  on  a  private  house  basis; 
the  prize  napkin-folding,  but  no 
waiter's  drill  nor  prize  waiter  work ; 
there  were  little  dishes  made  by 
amateur  cooks,  but  no  contests  of 
veterans  of  the  table  cChote  system ; 
there  were  two  days  of  fitful  interest 
over  a  display  of  ornamental  pieces 
which  resulted  in  dissatisfaction  over 
the  awards  of  prizes  and  while  even 
this  was  being  but  poorly  attended 
there  were  a  thousand  "  temperance 
lunch    houses,"    "coffee     taverns," 


"oyster  houses,"  "railway  eating  sta- 
tions," "chop  houses,"  restaurants 
and  hotels  of  every  description  where 
the  real  cookery  exhibitions  were 
going  on  and  in  which  the  public 
were  really  interested  which  had  no 
more  part  nor  lot  in  the  Aquarium 
exhibition  than  if  it  had  been  in  some 
distant  country.  They  are  all  inter- 
ested in  the  art  of  cooking  for  large 
numbers  but  not  in  pieces  montees. 
There  was  one  good  idea  of  a  hotel 
cook  who  entered  for  exhibition  three 
sauces,  but  little  known;  that  idea 
will  be  amplified  in  the  American 
exhibition  into  a  show  and  sampling 
of  all  known  sauces.  There  will  be 
a  display,  for  prizes,  of  the  best  ways 
the  best  cooks  have  invented  of  orna- 
menting the  individual  dishes  of  each 
separate  hotel  dinner;  there  will  be 
prizes  for  the  best  ten  ways  of  cook- 
ing certain  specified  articles  of  diet 
and  the  requirement  of  the  proper 
name  attached  to  every  dish.  There 
will  be  exhibitions  of  rapid  waiter- 
work  given  at  dinners  served  to 
members  at  nominal  prices  for  this 
purpose,  and  the  specially  ornamental 
cooks  who  set  out  very  grand  ban- 
quet tables  but  never  succeed  in 
getting  their  patrons  half  waited  upon, 
will  have  the  opportunity  to  look  on 
and  learn  how  meals  are  served  to 
hundreds  or  thousands  at  once. 


THE  END. 


COOKIJS/G  FOR  PROFIT. 


203 


Suggestions  for  the  Decoration  of  Small  Dishes. 

For  Restaurant  Orders  and  Course  Dinners. 


Cases  {caisses^  of  various  shapes 
can  be  made  by  a  simple  method 
similar  to  that  of  making  a  kind  of 
crisp  waffle.  It  is  well  enough  to 
have  the  iron  or  copper  shapes  but 
they  are  not  indispensable.  Take 
common  tin  patty-pans,  mix  up  a 
pancake  batter  or  the  same  as  used 
for  pineapple  fritters,  that  is  rather 
thin ;  even  flour  batter-cake  will  do. 
Make  some  lard  hot,  dip  the  patty- 
pans in,  then  dip  the  outsides  in  the 
batter,  drop  into  the  lard  and  fry 
slowly.  Soon  the  batter  becomes 
dry  and  crisp  like  a  shell.  Pull  it 
off,  drain  on  paper,  dip  the  patty- 
pans again  until  you  have  enough. 
Use  these  shells  or  cases  instead  of 
puff-paste  patties  to  fill  with  stewed 
terrapin  or  scrambled  brains,  ragout 
of  chicken  liver,  etc.  Very  small 
ones  as  thin  as  paper  can  be  used  to 
set  around  a  dish,  some  filled  with 
grated  horseradish,  others  W\\\\Tnaitre 
d'hote/ butter,  with  peas  or  aspaj-a- 
gus  points.     Other  shells  or  cases  are 


made  by  shaping  rice  croquettes  or 
potato  croquettes  in  any  desired  form, 
egging  and  breading  them  either 
once  or  twice  and  frying  as  usual. 
When  done  of  a  handsome  clear 
brown  color  cut  out  the  top  and  re- 
move the  inside  and  fill  up  with 
minced  chicken,  minced  kidneys,  any 
curry  mixture  or  ragout,  giblets,, 
sweetbreads  or  brains. 

Another  resource  for  small  orna- 
mental dishes  is  the  carving  of  raw- 
potatoes,  sweet  potatoes  and  turnips 
into  shapes  like  cups  or  tumblers,  fry 
them  slowly  in  lard  or  oil  enough  to 
cover  them  till  done,  drain  on  paper, 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  use  them  in 
the  ways  above  described. 

Similar  shapes  may  be  cut  out  of 
bread  and  fried  in  the  same  way. 

The  common  method  of  orna- 
menting a  spoonful  of  meat  and 
sauce  in  an  individual  dish  with  a 
heart-shaped  or  leaf-shaped  crouton 
of  fried  bread  is  good  with  the  excep- 
tion  of   being   too   common.      The 


204 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


common  fault  is  to  cut  the  shapes 
too  large  and  out  of  bread  sliced  too 
thick.  They  should  be  dipped  some- 
times in  bright  sauce  and  parsley- 
dust  and  be  set  up  leaning  against 
the  meat  as  well  as  bordering  the 
dish. 

Similar  thin  pieces  of  fried  bread 
may  be  set  up  on  end  around  a  dish, 
fastened  by  being  dipped  in  q%%  and 
placed  while  the  dish  is  hot;  the 
meat  is  then  to  be  dished  in  the 
middle.  A  very  handsome  border 
can  be  made  of  duchesse  potato  mix- 
ture or  balls  set  around,  carefully 
egged  over  and  the  top  slightly  baked 
by  setting  on  the  top  shelf. 

Another  is  made  by  making  a 
firm  puree  by  rubbing  green  peas 
through  a  sieve.  Dip  a  teaspoon  in 
hot  butter  and  with  it  dip  up  small 
egg-shapes  and  place  in  order  around 
the  dish.  Lemons  to  go  with  salmon 
steak  or  fried  oysters  may  be  cut  in 
basket  shapes  with  scolloped  edges. 
Beets  may  be  stamped  out  with  fancy 
cutters.  There  should  not  be  too 
much  crowding.     One  of  the  most 


effective  ornaments  for  a  salad  is  a 
strip  or  two  of  blood  beet  in  vinegar 
cut  with  a  scollop  potato  knife,  small, 
like  a  common  lead  pencil  in  size, 
but  serrated,  and  laid  on  top  of  the 
salad. 

A  little  ornamental  effect  can  be 
given  to  all  the  ordinary  individual 
dishes  at  dinner  by  placing  the  meats 
diagonally  in  the  dish;  the  rice  may 
be  placed  slanting  across  one  side  and 
end  of  a  dish  and  the  curry  in  the 
same  lengthened  form  in  the  remain- 
ing space  just  as  well  as  shapelessly 
bunched  up  at  each  end  or  mixed, 
and  the  green  peas  with  a  croquette 
may  as  well  lie  in  two  diagonal  lines 
alongside  of  it  as  to  be  in  a  promis- 
cous  pile.  Don't  try  too  many  expe- 
riments. One  new  wrinkle  a  week 
is  enough.  But  remember  that  some 
big  reputations  and  big  salaries  are 
made  through  the  assiduous  follow- 
ing up  of  all  the  advantages  afforded 
by  a  cultivated  taste  for  ornamenta- 
tion rather  than  from  any  real  differ- 
ence in  the  cooking  that  is  behind  it 
alL 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


205 


An  Elaborate  Dish. 

(From  the  London  Caterer.^ 


At  the  late  Cookery  Exhibition  in 
Paris  the  highest  award  was  obtained 
by  M.  Charles  Poulain  for  his  Bour- 
riche  de  Gibier  a  Tlndienne  (Basket 
of  Game).  We  present  an  illustra- 
tion, and  append  some  brief  descrip- 
tive notes  of  this  highly  artistic  piece 
montee* 


edifice.  The  projecting  flowers  were 
likewise  modelled  in  wax  of  various 
colors.  The  contents  of  the  basket 
consisted  of  galantines  of  pheasants, 
and  ballottines  of  partridges  and 
quails.  These  were  dished  upright, 
and  surmounted  by  the  heads  and 
feathers  of  the  birds.  A  small  silver 
skewer  passing  through  each  bird's 
head  fixed  it  to  the  galantine.     In 


The  stand  was  made  of  mutton  fat, 
and  covered  with  a  mosaic-work 
composed  of  diamonds  of  trufties, 
tongue,  and  boiled  white  of  Q%%' 
The  basket,  or  bourriche^  was  made 
of  wax,  as  were  also  the  four  model- 
led   Indian    figures    supporting    the 


the  middle  of  the  group  rose  a  high 
wax  vase  containing  a  bouquet  of 
vegetables  cut  in  the  shape  of  differ- 
ent flowers.  The  hollows  between 
the  galantines  were  filled  with  aspic 
jelly. 


206 


COOKING  I^OR  PROFIT, 


Trophy  of  Galantines  of  Partridges. 


This  was  the  work  of  a  French 
chef'wi  London  of  which  the  picture 
only  and  no  particulars  were  given. 


borate  raised  foundation  on  which 
they  stand,  with  the  borders  of  aspic 
and  truffles ;  the  truffles,  probably,  in 


Evidently  the  stand  itself  is  of  sil- 
ver, one  of  those  pieces  of  "  massive 
family  plate"  so  often  mentioned  in 
relation  to  old  and  titled  families. 
The  cook's  work  is  the  four  boned 
partridges  finely  decorated,  the  ela- 


the  two  raised  baskets  at  the  sides, 
the  waxen  bird  and  basket  at  top, 
the  waxen  figure  of  the  cook  him- 
self and  his  benign  angel  at  the  bot- 
tom, very  likely  with  a  white  vax 
floor  and  decorations  to  stand  upon. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


307 


APPKNDIX. 


CAMOVITO'S  DINNERS. 

Because  all  large  dinners  in  New 
York  are  given  at  Delmonico's,  the 
Brunswick,  the  Fifth  Avenue  or  the 
Hoffman  House,  it  is  an  error  to 
suppose  that  a  really  artistic  table- 
spread  is  never  produced  outside  of 
those  establishments.  Steward  Ca- 
movito,  of  the  Union  League  club, 
has  arranged  some  dinners  that  have 
never  been  excelled  in  this  town. 
The  members  of  the  club  consider 
him  a  genius  in  his  way.  President 
Grant's  dinner  to  Diaz,  before  refer- 
red to,  was  a  case  in  point.  Photo- 
graphs of  the  big,  round  table  made 
especially  for  the  purpose,  taken  just 
before  the  guests  set  down,  give  but 
a  faint  idea  of  their  magnificence. 
At  the  dinner  Senator  Evarts  gave 
to  the  French  naval  visitors  and  the 
Bartholdi  committee,  not  long  ago, 
Camovito's  model  of  the  statue  of 
Liberty  was  a  triumph  of  the  confec- 
tioner's skill.  He  surrounded  Bedloe's 
Island  with  natural  water  clear  as 
cr}'stal,  had  the  Isere  and  French 
war  ships  riding  at  anchor,  and 
illuminated  Liberty's  torch  with  a 
little  incandescent  lamp  that  sparkled 
like  a  diamond  in  a  lady's  ring.  At 
the  Wiman  dinner  he  bridged  the 
Arthur  Kill  with  a  towering  struc- 
ture of  gelatine  and  sugar  with  a 
train   of    Baltimore    and    Ohio    cars 


crossing  it,  and  he  set  afloat  a  ferry- 
boat of  white  sugar  to  carry  the 
passengers  that  Mr.  Wiman  hopes  to 
capture  from  the  Pennsylvania  road 
if  his  air  castle  don't  break  down. 
Camovito  spends  as  much  time  and 
care  over  planning  a  big  dinner  as 
some  architects  do  over  designing  a 
new  house.  He  told  me  once  that 
he  often  laid  awake  nights  thinking 
over  some  litte  surprise  peculiarly 
applicable  to  the  occasion  of  the  din- 
ner or  the  guest  of  the  evening.  To 
be  sure  he  gets  well  paid  for  it,  and 
he  ought  to.  He  is  one  of  the  dozen 
or  more  chefs  in  New  York  who 
can  command  as  high  a  salary  as  a 
successful  preacher. 


The  tables  were  appropriately 
decorated  when  the  Boston  Com- 
mercial Club  gave  a  dinner  to  some 
railroad  men.  The  central  piece  re- 
presented a  complete  train,  with 
engine  and  tender  two  feet  high, 
made  entirely  of  roses,  pinks,  violets, 
and  other  flowers.  It  extended  nearly 
half  across  the  President's  table. 


At  a  private  dinner  recently  on 
Brooklyn  Heights,  where  many  epi- 
cures reside  and  are  not  wanting  in 
hospitality,  the  ice  cream,  served  on 
a  silver  platter  in  front  of  the  hostess. 


208 


C  O  OKING  FOR  PR  OFIT, 


was  in  the  form  of  a  watermelon, 
and  when  cut,  the  deception  was 
excellently  preserved. 


At  a  luncheon  given  by  the  Vis- 
countess Combermere  the  table  de- 
corations consisted  of  a  carpet  of 
moss  dotted  with  real  primroses.  In 
the  centre  rose  a  bank  of  moss,  upon 
which  was  a  gold  efergne  filled  with 
oranges,  relieved  by  little  bunches  of 
primroses.  The  edge  of  the  table 
was  trailed  and  framed  with  ivy. 

For  a  ladies'  lunch  party  in  a 
fashionable  New  York  hotel,  a  novel 
idea  was  introduced.  Roses  were 
frozen  in  a  large  cake  of  ice,  which 
was  placed  on  a  mat  of  smilax.  The 
effect  was  as  if  these  were  standing 
in  water. 


A  TIN  Y  —  very  tiny  —  pig  was 
served  at  a  fashionable  dinner,  the 
other  evening;  and  when  he  was 
placed  on  the  table  a  howl  went  up 
from  the  assembled  rank  and  fashion 
surrounding  him.  The  little  beast 
stood  on  his  own  hoofs  in  the  midst 
of  a  bed  of  Marshal  Neil  roses;  in 
his  rosy  snout  was  the  customary 
lemon,  and  twisted  in  his  small  tail 
was  a  blue  pond  lily!  How  her  chef 
accomplished  this  feat  the  hostess 
refused  to  divulge,  and  though  pork 
is  not  usually  admitted,  in  any  form, 
into  good  society,  Mr.  Piggy — who 
was  pronounced  too  sweet  for  any- 
thing— was  duly  cut  up  and  tasted, 
and  the  health  of  the  Chinese  cook 
duly  drank  in  champagne. 


A  COSTLY  DINNER. 

Count  Horace  de  Viel  -  Castel, 
whose  memoirs  were  recently  pub- 
lished, was  a  decided  gourmand. 
He   made  a  bet  once  that  he  would 


eat  a  dinner,  the  cost  of  w^hich  would 
not  be  less  than  500  fr.  The  menu, 
which  he  prepared  for  the  occasion, 
was  as  follows: 

Potage  a  I'essence  de  gibier. 
Laitances  de  carpe  au  Xeres. 

Cailles  desossees  en  caisse. 

Truite  de  lac  de  Geneve. 

Faisan  roti  barde  d'ortolans. 

Pyramide  de  truffes  entieres. 

Compote  de  fruits  et  stilton. 

VINS. 

Tokay,  johannisberg,    glace,   clos-vougeot 
1819,  chypre  de  la  Commanderie. 

He  won  the  wager,  going  about  a 
hundred  francs  above  the  stipulated 
price.  He  left  not  a  remnant  of  any 
dish,  nor  a  drop  of  wine,  and,  strange 
to  say,  was  able  to  spend  the  rest  of 
the  evening  with  Earl  Granville  at 
the  British  Embassy. 


WINE  SERVICE. 


The  proper  service  of  wines  is  a 
study  of  itself;  but  we  may  say 
generally  that  sherry  should  be 
poured  with  the  soup,  white  wines 
with  the  fish,  champagne  with  the 
roast  and  claret  all  through  the  din« 
ner.  Choice  Burgundy  comes  in 
with  the  game,  and  a  glass  of  fine 
Madeira  finishes  the  dinner.  Liquors 
and  brandy  are  offered  with  or  after 
the  coffee.  It  is  the  pleasant  custom 
now  to  offer  mineral  waters  with  the 
wine.  Appollinaris  has  been  called 
the  Presidential  beverage  since  the 
days  of  Mrs.  Hayes,  and  for  those 
who  can  not  drink  wine  it  is  a  very 
ofood  substitute. 


Kitchen  gossips  say  that  $6,000 
worth  of  unused  "stuff"  was  taken 
from  Vanderbilt's  house  the  day  after 
the  ball. 


In  a  corner  of  those  magnificent 
markets  of  Paris,  called  Halles  Cen- 
tralles,  you   may    behold    a   strange 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


209 


sight  every  morning  between  six 
o'clock  and  noon.  Half  a  dozen 
large  stalls  there,  bright  with  gilding 
and  varnish,  luxurious  with  marble, 
well- furnished,  with  lusty  shop  girls, 
display  the  remnant  of  yesterday's 
banquet — plates  of  soup;  bits  of  fish 
half  picked,  with  the  sauce  still  round 
them ;  fragments  of  pates  and  sweets ; 
liquefied  ices;  fragments  of  game; 
and  costly  viands  formless,  heaped 
together.  These  are  the  leavings  of 
a  grand  restaurant  or  a  ministerial 
dinner,  sold  by  the  officer  to  whom 
such  perquisities  belong.  Too  proud 
is  he  to  touch  them  himself;  but 
round  the  counter  you  will  see  a  few 
workmen,  mostly  red  -  nosed,  and 
shaggy,  the  wives  of  many  more, 
and  a  crush  of  threadbare  individuals 
of  that  class  one  would  rather  see  by 
daylight  than  by  dark.  It  is  not 
that  these  broken  meats,  as  far  as  I 
have  noticed,  are  particularly  cheap. 
Five  pennyworth  of  beef  would  give 
more  strength  than  ten  plates  of 
melted  ice  and  sauce  congealed.  But 
the  worn  out  stomachs  of  such  people 
crave  high  seasoning  and  strong 
taste,  which  the  beef  would  not  give 
them.  So  they  take  away  in  bits  of 
newspaper  a  franc's  worth  of  wretch- 
ed dainties,  and  eat  them  with  a 
scowl  and  curse  against  "  the  rich." 


Pope  Leo  XIII.  daily  dines  at  a 
cost  of  37  cents,  on  a  simple  soup,  a 
little  bread,  a  leg  or  wing  of  a 
chicken,  six  or  seven  grapes  and  one 
pear,  with  a  big  glass  of  the  best 
Marcia. 


No.  9  DoYERS  Street,  this  city, 
may  aptly  be  called  a  hotel  for  the 
extremely  poor.  It  is  under  the 
management  of  the  Sanitary  Aid 
Society  of  the  Tenth  Ward.  Board- 
ers are  entertained  at  nominal  prices. 


The  three  upper  floors  are  full  of 
bunks,  similar  to  those  on  a  ship, 
covered  over  with  clean  white  linen. 
A  charge  of  ten  cents  is  made  for 
each  one  of  these  beds  a  night,  in- 
cluding a  warm  bath,  which  is  made 
a  necessity  by  the  rules  of  the  insti- 
tution. Breakfast  is  furnished  for 
three  and  five  cents,  and  dinner  for 
ten  cents.  Each  lodger  is  compelled 
to  register  his  name,  give  age,  occupa- 
tion, and  tell  whether  married  or 
single  before  he  can  get  a  ticket  for 
a  bed.  This  is  the  only  institution 
of  its  kind  in  the  city,  but  efforts  are 
being  made  to  establish  more  as  soon 
as  possible.  As  the  house  is  self- 
supporting  money  invested  is  not 
lost,  but  pays  a  good  percentage. 


On  the  bills  of  fare  in  New  York 
Italian  restaurant's  coffee  is  i  cent  per 
cup;  steaks,  chops  and  stews,  3  cents; 
pastry,  3  cents;  beer,  2  cents;  whisky 
and  brandy,  3  cents.  These  places 
are  thronged  daily  by  persons  of  all 
nationalities. 


So-called  English  chop  houses 
are  springing  up  in  all  parts  of  the 
city  of  New  York.  Their  popu- 
larity increases  constantly.  Three 
or  four  years  ago  there  was  only  half 
a  dozen  good  chop  houses.  Now 
there  are  a  score  or  more  and  they 
are  all  of  them  flourishing.  The 
slapbang,  greasy,  noisy  and  rushing 
restaurant,  with  its  dozens  of  tables, 
soiled  linen,  slouchy  negro  waiters 
and  miserable  kitchen,  has  given  way 
to  neat  and  commodious  little  chop 
houses,  with  well  polished  tables, 
quiet  waiters  and  excellent  cooks. 
They  sell  nothing  but  chops,  steaks, 
potatoes,  beer  and  ale,  and  the  service 
is  characterized  by  cleanliness  and 
promptness.  The  prices  are  quite 
reasonable. 


210 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


The  five-cent  lunch  places  in  lower 
Broadway,  N.  Y.,  are  getting  more 
numerous  and  more  popular.  The 
proprietor  of  one  of  them  said  to  a 
Tribune  XQ.^QxX.Q.r\  "  For  nearly  half 
a  century  cheapness  in  New  York, 
for  nearly  everything,  but  especially 
eating,  has  been  synonymous  with 
dirt.  It  was  my  idea  in  opening  this 
place  to  make  it  absolutely  clean  and 
neat,  the  food  wholesome  and  tooth- 
some, and  the  price  so  reasonable 
that  I  should  get  not  only  the  multi- 
tude who  are  obliged  to  buy  five-cent 
lunches,  but  that  other  class  who  pay 
a  higher  price  to  get  something  clean. 
I  hit  it,  and  so  have  the  other  places 
of  this  kind.  I  have  enlarged  my 
place  twice  since  coming  here,  and 
shall  enlarge  it  again  as  soon  as  the 
present  tenants  vacate  a  room  next 
to  me.'' 


A  MOVEMENT  is  now  ''n  very  suc- 
cessful operation  m  Bordeaux  to  sup- 
ply workingmen  with  wholesome, 
well-cooked  and  substantial  meals  at 
a  low  cost.  To  this  end  a  number 
of  restaurants  have  been  started  in 
various  parts  of  the  city  by  a  certain 
company,  which  is  backed  by  the 
moral  support  of  the  medical  frater- 
nity, the  churches  and  the  health 
authorities.  In  the  course  of  a  flying 
trip  to  Bordeaux  last  week,  writes  a 
correspondent,  I  visited  one  of  these 
restaurants.  The  bill  of  fare  served 
and  the  cost  per  item  were  as  fol- 
lows: A  large  plate  of  vegetable 
soup,  cost  two  cents;  two  large  slices 
of  bread,  two  cents;  a  plate  of  red 
haricot  beans,  two  cents;  a  plate  of 
roast  veal,  four  cents;  a  plate  of  rice, 
one  cent;  half  a  bottle  of  vin  ordi- 
naire^ four  cents.  Thus  a  very  fair 
and  liberal  dinner  —  there  was  no 
stinting  in  the  amount  sei^ved — was 
to  be  obtained   for    1 15   cents.       This 


might  serve  as  a  hint  to  New  York. 
What  can  be  made  a  successful  busi- 
ness, where  almost  every  article  of 
food  is  taxed,  ought  to  pay  in  New 
York,  where  meat  and  nearly  all 
kinds  of  food  are  cheaper.  Surely 
a  good  warm  dinner  of  this  charac- 
ter, served  at  a  comfortable  table,  is 
a  boon  to  the  artisan. 


ONE-CENT  BREAKFAST. 

The  head  master  of  the  Board 
School  at  Wallsend,  seeing  so  much 
distress  about,  and  that  many  of  the 
children  attending  his  school  were 
badly  prepared  to  face  the  lessons  of 
the  day  for  want  of  sufficient  food  at 
home,  and  being,  it  is  said,  a  firm  be- 
liever in  oatmeal,  once  the  chief  of 
"Scotia's  food,"  determined  to  do 
something  on  his  own  account  with- 
out waiting  for  "  a  committee."  So 
he  ordered  a  good  supply  of  oatmeal 
from  a  mill  in  Berwickshire,  of  the 
finest  quality.  The  cooking  opera- 
tions commenced  at  6:  30  a.  m.,  and 
the  porridge  is  allowed  to  boil  for 
fifty  minutes,  and  is  cooled  and  ready 
for  serving  out  at  8:  15.  Each  child 
is  supplied  with  about  a  pint  of  por- 
ridge— more  or  less,  according  to 
size  and  appetite — and  a  little  more 
than  half  a  gill  of  good  skimmed 
milk.  About  one  hundred  and  twenty 
children  are  thus  receiving  breakfast 
at  a  cost  of  about  one-half  penny 
each,  and  in  most  cases  they  are 
given  free.  In  times  gone  by  oat- 
meal was  also  the  staple  food  of  the 
North  of  England;  it  will  be  curious 
if  it  comes  again  into  use.  Its  value 
as  regards  nutrition  for  children  is 
beyond  dispute.  High  wages  have 
conduced  to  a  high  class  though  not 
better  food  for   the   working  class. 

■London  Lancet, 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


211 


The  New  York  Hotel  Reporter 
makes  the  following  remarks  upon 
country  or  seaside  boarding. 

"  As  a  general  thing  the  city 
boarder  wants  the  full  value  of  his 
money  when  sojourning  in  the  coun- 
try, and  is  hard  to  please.  He  will 
criticise  the  meat  and  say  that  it  can- 
not be  compared  with  that  which  he 
gets  in  the  city.  This  may  be  true, 
if  he  really  gets  first  rate  city  food. 
Our  opinion  is  that  the  farmer's  wife 
who  takes  boarders  should  confine 
herself  to  those  dishes  which  she 
knows  how  to  cook  well — to  the 
stews  and  the  pot-pies.  Her  deserts 
should  be  ample  puddings,  especially 
in  the  season  of  fruits,  the  city 
boarder,  who  is  always  hungry  in 
the  country,  does  not  care  for  thin 
and  stingy  little  slices  of  cake  and  a 
spoonful  of  sweetmeats.  The  prob- 
lem usually  is,  where  can  we  have 
still  salt  water  bathing  and  boating, 
shade,  a  quiet  farmhouse  where  the 
people  go  to  bed  early,  and  where 
the  food  is  plentiful,  without  being 
extravagantly  fine,  at  a  cheap  price? 
These  questioners  always  have  chil- 
dren, big  and  little.  The  busy  board- 
ing-house of  popular  seaside  resorts 
are  not  suitable  for  people  who  are 
disposed  to  be  quiet  and  do  not  wish 
to  be  kept  awake  until  after  mid- 
night by  the  banging  of  a  cracked 
piano,  by  silly  laughter  and  by  noisy 
dancing.  So  that  the  quiet  family 
which  should  like  to  be  in  a  farmer's 
house  on  a  still  bay,  with  both  a 
beach  and  shady  trees,  finds  itself 
hard  to  please,  especially  when  it 
wishes  to  pay  about  five  dollars  a 
head.  The  farmer's  wife  who  has 
such  a  place  is  usually  shy  of  board- 
ers, and  looks  at  them  as  if  they  are 
always  dissatisfied,  and  is  not  dis- 
posed to  take  them  at  all.  If  she  is, 
we  have  not  heard  of  her  at  all.  But 
the  papers  will  soon  be  full  of  adver- 


tisements of  boarding  places  and 
people  will  be  seeking  for  what  they 
will  never  get.  After  all  it  is  a 
problem.     Who  will  explain?" 


THE  PREVAILING  DISCONTENT. 


It  was  a  little  country  inn 

Without  a  bill-of.fare. 
They  simply  set  forth  what  they  had; 

Variety  was  spare. 

A  man  of  cranky  appetite 

Sat  at  this  humble  board, 
And  was  no  sooner  served  than  he 

Thus  started  in  and  jawed. 

"  Take  hence  this  hammered  Dit  of  steak. 

«'  Remove  this  old  hen's  legs. 
"  Withdraw  this  bitter  chicory — 

"  And  bring  some  scrambled  eggs." 

"Alas!"  replied  the  table  girl, 
"  To  please  you  much  I'd  like. 

"  Some  little  discontent  prevails — 
"  The  hens  are  on  a  strike." 

"  What  is  the  cause?"  the  traveler  asked. 

"  It's  simply  this,"  she  stated, 
"  The  plain  glass  nest  egg's  out  of  style. 

"  They  want'em  decorated,^'' 

—New  Tork  Hotel  Registtr^ 


AU  CAFE. 


You're  a  natty  little  waiter, 

O,  Fraulein ! 
To  my  wants  you  always  cater. 

When  I  dine; 
And  you  have  no  irritating 
Way 'of  keeping  people  waiting, 
And  your  smile  is  captivating, 

I  opine. 


212 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT 


You  are  dressed  so  nicely, 

O,  Frauleinl 
All  my  feelings  so  precisely 

You  divine: 
That  from  soup  to  tutti  frutti^ 
You're  acquainted  with  your  duty ; 
And  utility  with  beauty 

You  combine. 

You  are  skilled  in  fancy  cooking, 

O,  Fraulein ! 
You  are  the  maid  for  whom  I'm  looking 

For  my  shrine. 
Tho'  I  have  not  wealth  nor  title, 
Prithee,  list  to  my  recital, 
Give  my  fond  love  some  requital, 

O,  be  mine! 

So  you  actually  are  laughing. 

And  decline? 
And  my  sentiment  you're  chaffing, 

And  say:  "Nein?" 
At  my  proffered  love  you  laugh;  eh? 
What  I  you  are  a  better  half,  eh? 
Of  the  man  who  keeps  this  cafe? 

O,  Frauleinl 

— Chicago  Rambler. 


TO  MAKE  AN  ASTONISHING  EGG. 

Labouchere  gives  the  following 
recipe  for  a  monster  Easter  ^gg'. 
Take  a  dozen  eggs,  separate  the 
whites  from  the  yolks,  which  latter 
you  pour  into  a  small  bladder  well 
washed  and  thoroughly  cleaned. 
Shape  the  bladder  like  a  sphere,  close 
it  hermetically  and  plung  it  into  boil- 
ing water.  When  the  yolks  are 
quite  hard  peel  the  bladder  off;  you 
will  find  them  in  the  form  of  a  ball, 
which  you  must  place  in  a  larger 
bladder,  adding  the  whites.  The 
yellow  ball  suspends  itself  naturally 
in  the  center  of  the  whites.  Close 
the  bladder  and  plunge  it  into  boil- 
ing water.  When  this  monster  egg 
is  quite  hard  peel  the  bladder  oS 
again.  When  you  serve  it  place  it 
in  the  center  of  a  bowl  of  salad ;  then 
cut  it  up  and  serve  with  the  salad. 


Sun,  heard  of  them  then  for  the  first 
time.  He  describes  them,  not  very 
accurately,  and  states  how  the  hostess 
buys  them  of  a  German  woman, 
though  they  are  usually  made  at  home 
as  wanted.  The  woman  started  the 
business,  made  such  nice  "  nudels" 
and  was  so  cleanly  that  she  now  sells 
enough  to  support  herself  and  chil- 
dren. All  through  Pennsylvania 
"nudels"  are  much  eaten,  particu- 
larly in  soup.  In  Lancaster,  and 
other  inland  towns,  they  are  sold  in 
the  market.  They  are  kept  by  some 
of  the  Philadelphia  grocers,  and  are 
frequently  served  at  Philadelphia 
tables.  They  are  one  of  the  many 
excellent  dishes  to  which  the  New 
Yorker  is  a  comparative  stranger. 
If  Mr.  Dana  will  come  to  Philadel- 
phia, and  let  me  know  of  his  coming, 
I  will  promise  him  "  nudel"  soup  of 
home-made  "  nudels"  for  dinner.  I 
think  he  spells  the  word  wrong.  It 
ought  to  be  noodles.  It  is  the  cus- 
tom, when  you  have  noodle  soup,  to 
dispose  of  from  four  to  five  plates  at 
least.  The  chicken,  which  is  boiled 
in  the  soup,  comes  afterwards  to 
table. 


Thby    had  "nudels"    at   a    New 
York  dinner,  and  Mr.  Dana,  of  the 


Mr.  Boucicault  is  said  to  be 
such  an  artist  in  cookery  that  he 
could  give  points  to  the  best  chefs  in 
the  country.  Mr.  Jefferson  is  very 
fond  of  griddle  cakes;  Salvini,  of 
macaroni;  Catherine  and  Jeffreys 
Lewis,  of  Frankfort  sausage;  and 
Patti  has  a  weakness  for  onions — 
but  "  the  weakness  is  so  strong." 


"PLANKED  SHAD." 


The  approach  of  the  season  when 
Washington  epicures  can  enjoy  the 
luxury  of  "planked  shad,"  reminds 
the  correspondent  of  the  St.  Louis 
Globe  -  Democrat   of    the    following 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


213 


story  about  Daniel  Webster:  "Web- 
ster was  an  artist  in  this  line,  and 
prided  himself  greatly  upon  his  gifts. 
His  only  rival  was  an  aged  slave,  a 
character  on  the  river,  called  Sam. 
There  were  those  who  said  that  Sam 
was  the  only  one  who  knew  how  to 
cook  planked  shad;  others  protested 
that  the  great  statesman  was  supreme. 
On  sunny  spring  days,  when  parties 
of  gentlemen  went  down  the  river  to 
watch  the  fish  nailed  to  their  boards, 
sizzling  and  browning  before  the 
blaze  of  an  outdoor  fire,  it  was  ar- 
ranged to  have  a  trial  for  the  cham- 
pionship between  old  Sam  and  Mr. 
Webster.  Each  contestant  was  well 
backed,  and  the  lights  of  those  early 
political  days  were  all  there.  First 
Sam  split  the  shad,  seasoned  them  as 
he  knew  would  most  suit  Mr.  Web- 
ster's taste,  and  laid  them  before  the 
orator  done  to  a  turn.  "Really, 
Sam,  this  is  the  best  planked  shad  I 
have  ever  eaten,"  quoth  Daniel;  and 
applause  rang  from  Sam's  adherents. 
Next  Webster  laid  aside  his  toga  and 
hovered  around  the  fire,  knife  and 
salt-box  in  hand,  watching  the  shad 
that  he  had  prepared  in  the  way  he 
knew  would  best  suit  Sam's  taste. 
Sam  ate  three  mouthf uls  rapturously, 
and  exclaimed:  'Fore  God,  Mr. 
Webster,  I  neber  have  tasted  planked 
shad  before !'  Webster  yielded  grace- 
fully the  palm  to  Sam,  outdone  by 
him  in  compliments  as  well  as  in 
cooking." 


"PLANKED"   SHAD. 

Every  little  hotel  and  eating  house 
fronting  the  Delaware  at  Gloucester 
has  its  specialty  of  "planked"  shad. 
The  fish,  fresh  from  the  stream,  is 
cut  in  twain,  fastened  by  tenpenny 
nails  to  a  thick  oak  board,  slanted 
toward  a  hot  wood  fire,  duly  basted 


and  finally  served  at  table  on  his  oak 
gridiron.  That  the  prince  of  Ame- 
rican fishes,  served  under  these  con- 
ditions and  fianked  by  asparagus  and 
kindred  dainties,  is  at  his  best,  goes 
without  further  saying.  Daniel  Web- 
ster, I  have  heard,  used  to  plume 
himself  more  on  his  ability  to  "plank" 
a  shad  than  on  his  highest  oratorical 
flights.  But  if  I  may  venture  a  per- 
sonal opinion  against  so  famed  an 
authority,  the  planked  shad  is  not, 
after  all,  decidedly  better  than  the 
same  fish  cooked  prosaically  on  the 
domestic  gridiron.  He  is  fresher 
from  the  water,  he  is  surrounded  by 
the  poetic  novelty  of  odd  cookery 
and  service,  and  appetite  is  sharpened 
by  the  keen,  watery  air.  Take  these 
concomitants  away,  and  the  planked 
shad  would  lose  half  his  fame. 


THE  REAL  VIENNA  BREAD. 

Viennese  bread  is  celebrated.  It 
may  interest  you  to  know  something 
about  it.  The  excellence  of  the 
bread  is  attributed  in  Vienna  to  three 
reasons — the  oven,  the  men  and  the 
yeast.  I  think  another  may  be  added, 
and  that  is  the  dry  climate.  An 
ounce  of  yeast  (three  decagrammes) 
and  as  much  salt  is  taken  for  every 
gallon  of  milk  used  for  the  dough. 
The  yeast  is  a  Viennese  specialty, 
known  as  the  "St.  Marxner  Press- 
heffe,"  and  its  composition  is  a  secret 
It  keeps  two  days  in  summer  and  a 
little  longer  in  winter.  The  ovens 
are  heated  by  wood  fires  lighted 
inside  them  during  four  hours;  the 
ashes  are  then  raked  out  and  the 
oven  is  carefully  wiped  with  wisps  of 
damp  straw.  On  the  vapor  thus 
generated,  as  well  as  that  produced 
by  the  baking  of  the  dough,  lies  the 
whole  art  of  the  browning  and  the 
success  of  the  "  semmel." 


814 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


"Yes,"  said  Chef  Ranhoffer,  of 
Delmonico's,  "we  have  a  great  de- 
mand for  quail.  We  sold  one  hund- 
red a  day  and  more  before  the  sea- 
son ended.  We  could  have  given 
Mr.  Walcott  a  quail  cooked  differ- 
ently every  day  in  his  match,  thus 
agreeably  relieving  the  monotony  of 
his  feat.  A  person  would  hardly 
believe  this  statement,  but  quail  can 
be    cooked   in   thirty-four    different 


ways, 


at  a  cost  to  the  eater  of  from 


seventy-five  cents  to  two  dollars  for 
a  single  bird.  We  make  them  into 
soups,  pies,  stews  and  salmis,  and  add 
all  kinds  of  sauces.  In  France  a 
delicious  way  of  cooking  them  is  to 
wrap  them  with  leaves  and  a  piece 
of  lard,  bathe  them  in  wine,  and 
pour  tomato  sauce  over  them  after 
they  are  cooked.  Sometimes  they 
are  cooked  with  bay  leaves,  or  they 
are  treated  in  Spanish  fashion  and 
cooked  with  rice  dressing.  They 
can  be  stuffed  like  a  regular  fowl 
and  treated  with  sauces  until  they 
are  a  luxury  to  the  palate,  and  the 
diner  will  crave  for  a  repetition." 


CREAM  OR  FONDANT. 


I  presume  from  your  question 
that  the  cream  you  speak  of  is  what 
we  call  fondant,  which  article  is  the 
basis  of  all  cream  bonbons.  This 
fondant  is  also  used  for  covering  or 
icing  cakes  and  a  great  variety  of 
what  are  called  dipped  goods.  Fon- 
dant is  made  by  boiling  simple  syrup 
to  the  forty-fifth  degree  by  the  sac- 
charometer;  then  pouring  it  on  a 
very  clean  marble  slab  between  iron 
bars,  and  when  it  has  become  nearly 
cold,  so  that  you  can  place  the  back 
of  your  hand  upon  it  without  its  ad- 
hering to  it;  it  must  be  worked  to 
and  fro  with  a  long-handled  spatula 
until  it  granulates  into  a  smooth 
mass,  it  must  then  with  a  knife  be 


loosened  from  the  marble  and  worked 
or  broken  with  the  hands  into  a  soft- 
ish  mass,  and  placed  in  an  earthen- 
ware pan  and  covered.  When  you 
want  to  use  it  for  icing  purposes 
place  the  required  quantity  in  a 
round-bottomed  pan,  place  it  upon  a 
slow  fire,  and  stir  constantly  with  a 
small  wooden  spatula  until  it  is  thor- 
oughly melted,  and  there  are  no- 
lumps  in  it.  Do  not  on  any  account 
allow  it  to  boil,  even  a  little,  as  that 
would  entirely  destroy  its  creamy 
texture  and  change  it  into  hard  con- 
serve; when  melted  pour  it  over  the 
article  to  be  covered  and  use  a  pallet 
knife  to  smooth  it  and  facilitate  your 
operation,  which  must  be  done  quick- 
ly, as  in  a  few  moments  it  will  be- 
gin to  set  and  dry.  The  cake  can 
then  be  decorated  with  ordinay  egg- 
icing,  or  in  any  other  way  to  suit 
your  fancy. —  Confectioner's  your^ 
nal. 

HOW  TO  PREPARE  STUFFED  EGG- 
PLANT. 


Mme.  C.  B.  Waite's  style  is  thus 
described  by  M.  Xavier  Wirtz,  of 
the  Societe  Culinaire  Philantro^ 
fique^  and  as  fine  a  chef  as  ever 
wore  white  cap  and  apron:  Cut  the 
top  of  the  eggplant  off,  also  a  small 
piece  from  the  bottom,  so  it  will 
stand  steadily,  then  cut  out  all  the 
inside,  as  near  the  shell  as  possible 
without  breaking  it.  Fill  the  shell 
with  salt  and  water  (to  extract  the 
bitterness)  and  let  it  stand  until  just 
before  dinner  time.  Stew  the  inside 
with  a  little  water,  bread  crumbs, 
butter,  c^ayenne  pepper,  salt,  spices 
and  a  small  piece  of  onion  cut  very 
fine.  Before  dinner  throw  the  water 
from  the  shell  and  fill  it  with  the 
hot  stuffing.  Grate  bread  crumbs 
over  the  top,  with  a  little  butter,  and 
put  it  into  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes 
to  brown. 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


215 


HOW  TO  SERVE  POTATOES. 

A  grand  international  potato  ex- 
hibition was  opened  at  the  Crystal 
Palace  yesterday  afternoon  by  Mr. 
Alderman  and  Sheriff  De  Keyser, 
in  the  absence  of  the  Lord  Mayor. 
Ten  years  ago  an  association  was 
formed  for  the  encouragement  of 
potato  culture,  and  the  introduction 
and  diffusion  of  improved  varieties. 
An  annual  exhibition  has  been  held, 
and  the  result  has  been  that  not  only 
has  the  number  of  exhibits  increased, 
but  the  quality  of  the  potatoes  shown 
has  greatly  improved.  At  yester- 
day's show  all  the  leading  growers 
were  represented,  and  the  excellence 
of  the  specimens  made  the  task  of 
awarding  the  prizes  no  easy  one. 
At  a  luncheon  Mr.  Shirley  Hibbard 
remarked  that  there  was  still  a  great 
deal  of  ignorance  shown  in  putting 
potatoes  on  the  table.  It  was  the 
usual  practice  to  bring  them  up  in  a 
porcelain  dish,  with  a  close-fitting 
cover.  In  ten  minutes  the  best  po- 
tatoes, however  carefully  cooked, 
were  thus  utterly  destroyed.  He 
recommended  that  they  should  be 
placed  in  a  wooden  dish  or  served  in 
a  porcelain  dish,  with  towels  above 
and  below  to  absorb  the  moisture. 


"  D.  C."  WISHES  to  know  how  to 
pickle  the  small  red  and  yellow  to- 
matoes that  are  brought  to  market 
somewhat  later  in  the  season.  If 
very  small  it  is  not  necessary  to  re- 
move the  skin,  and  you  may  proceed 
exactly  as  if  for  pickling  peaches. 
Make  a  sirup  of  one  quart  of  vinegar 
and  seven  pounds  of  sugar;  let  this 
come  to  a  boil,  add  spices  to  suit  your 
taste;  put  the  tomatoes  in  a  jar  or  in 
a  porcelain  kettle,  having  first  re- 
moved the  stems  and  wiped  the  fruit 
carefully ;  then  pour  the  hot  sirup 
over  them.     If  you  wish  them   for 


use  late  in  the  Spring  it  is  advisable 
to  can  them,  as  then  they  will  keep 
perfectly.  If  you  can  them,  put  the 
porcelain  kettle  over  the  front  of  the 
stove,  pour  the  hot  sirup  over,  and 
let  tlie  fruit  boil  gently,  but  do  not 
break  it  in  pieces.  If  the  fruit  is 
very  ripe  and  inclined  to  be  soft, 
steam  it  before  pouring  the  sirup 
over  it;  then  you  may  can  it  im- 
mediately. 


Here  is  Rossini's  receipt  for  cook- 
ing macaroni:  Take  a  pound  of  ma- 
caroni and  three  parts  cook  it  in  salt 
and  water,  after  which  drain  it  well 
in  a  colander,  throw  away  the  water, 
put  the  macaroni  back  again  into  the 
stewpan  in  which  it  has  been  dressed, 
pour  over  it  half  a  pint  of  good  gravy 
or  stock,  place  the  stewpan  at  the 
side  of  the  fire  where  it  may  keep 
hot,  simmer,  simmer,  simmer  and  al- 
ways simmer,  and  from  time  to  time 
shake  the  stewpan  so  that  the  maca- 
roni may  be  turned  about,  but  be 
careful  not  to  break  it;  when  the 
gravy  is  entirely  absorbed  by  the 
macaroni,  put  it  in  layers  on  a  silver 
dish  (this,  of  course,  is  a  question  of 
rank,  earthenware  doing  just  as  well, 
perhaps  better),  between  each  layer 
spread  some  grated  Parmesan  cheese, 
with  sliced  truffles  mixed  with  a  good 
Espagnole  sauce,  and  on  the  top  or 
last  layer  put  the  truffles  thicker; 
serve  hot  with  grated  Parmesan  on 
a  separate  plate. 


ABOUT  TRUFFLES. 


Truffles  are  subterranean  in  their 
habits,  their  position  beneath  the  soil 
varying  from  two  or  three  inches  to 
two  feet  in  depth.  They  have  neither 
root,  stem  nor  leaf,  and  are  of  differ- 
ent shades  of  color,  from  light  brown 
to    black.       They    are   more  or  lees 


216 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


globular  in  form  and  vary  in  size 
from  a  filbert  to  a  large  hen's  Q%z* 
Their  surface  is  knotty  or  warty  and 
covered  with  a  skin  of  net  work 
which  looks  like  veins.  Truffle? 
grow  in  pastures  and  on  open  downs, 
under  trees  and  sometimes  far  away 
from  them.  They  prefer  loose  soils 
and  affect  the  neighborhood  of  oaks, 
beeches  and  chestnuts,  but  they  do 
not  thrive  well  in  thick  woods.  They 
are  common  in  Central  and  Southern 
Europe,  particularly  in  this  country, 
where  the  Poitou  and  Perigord  dis- 
tricts are  most  prolific,  and  Italy, 
where  Piedmont  carries  of  the  palm. 
The  French  truffles  are  decidedly 
superior  to  those  of  any  country,  but 
they  vary  in  flavor  according  to  lo- 
cality. Up  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Nancy  or  Bar-le-Duc  they  are  gray- 
ish in  color  and  nearly  tasteless ;  down 
near  Grenoble,  Valence  and  Av- 
ignon they  have  a  musky  taste;  in 
Burgundy  they  are  smaller,  dry  and 
have  a  flavor  of  resin,  but  the  Peri- 
gord truffle  is  the  kind  that  makes 
one's  mouth  water  to  think  of  it. 
Did  you  ever  eat  a  Perigord  pie? 
Well,  without  the  presence  of  the 
thin  slices  of  the  Perigord  tuber  that 
delicious  fate  de  foie  gras  would 
lose  half  its  value.  I  have  a  loving 
remembrance  of  the  flat  de  resist- 
ance of  our  national  Thanksgiving 
Day,  for  a  truffled  turkey  is  quite  a 
different  bird  from  that  stuffed  with 
bread  crumbs,  sausage  meat,  boiled 
chestnuts  and  many  other  things.  In 
the  northern  woods  they  are  hunted 
for  with  dogs,  but  down  in  Perigord 
they  train  pigs  for  this  purpose.  It 
seems  that  pigs  have  better  noses 
than  dogs  for  this  work.  This  is 
because  the  one  likes  truffles  better 
as  an  article  of  food  than  the  other, 
and  a  good  truffle-hunting  hog  will 
fetch  as  much  as  $50.  Of  the  same 
fungi  family  as  truffles  are  the  cham- 


pignons, which  are  now  also  in 
season,  but  which  are  not  so  plenti- 
ful in  France  as  in  some  parts  of 
Russia,  where  they  are  said  to  form 
the  principal  staples  of  food  with  the 
peasantry. 


A  BATTLE  WITH  WILD  HOGS. 


An  Arkansas  correspondent  writes : 
Few  people  are  aware  that  there  are 
such  things  as  wild  hogs  in  this 
country,  but  such  is  the  case,  how- 
ever little  the  fact  may  be  known. 
Not  long  since  James  Reynolds  and 
myself  were  on  a  deer  hunting  ex- 
pedition on  one  of  the  numerous 
bayous  that  jut  into  Red  river  in  the 
southeastern  purt  of  Arkansas.  We 
had  with  us  two  dogs,  and  were 
trailing  along  the  bank  of  the  bayou 
— the  dogs  some  200  or  300  yards  in 
advance.  All  at  once  the  dogs  be- 
gan to  bark,  and  there  arose  the 
greatest  consternation  imaginable.  It 
did  not  take  us  long  to  determine 
the  cause  of  all  the  commotion,  as 
the  dogs  soon  hove  in  sight,  fighting 
and  retreating  toward  us.  Attacking 
them  was  a  drove  of  wild,  infuriated 
hogs,  some  of  them  so  large  and 
ferocious  that  a  grizzly  bear  would 
be  little  more  formidable.  To  say 
that  they  would  strike  terror  to  the 
bravest  heart  is  but  to  make  an  as- 
sertion that  would  receive  immediate 
credence  of  the  reader  should  he 
ever  be  brought  face  to  face  with 
them. 

What  was  to  be  done?  Here  they 
came  with  a  deafening  and  unearthly 
noise,  their  every  bristle  projecting 
forward,  eyes  maddened  with  rage, 
froth  dripping  from  their  mouths, 
and  their  long  tusks  ready  to  rip 
open  any  one  or  anything  that  of- 
fered combat. 

I  suggested  to  Reynolds  that  we 
give  them   a  volley  from  our  four 


,  COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


S17 


barrels  at  once,  and  perhaps  it  would 
so  discomfit  them  that  they  would 
retreat.  This  we  did  when  they 
were  about  two  rods  from  us,  and 
although  we  felled  some  three  or 
four  to  the  ground  and  crippled 
others,  they  seemed  more  enraged 
than  ever  and  were  on  us  before  we 
could  reload  our  guns.  The  only 
thing  left  for  us  to  do  was  to  take  to 
the  water  (and  very  fortunate  for  us 
that  we  had  water  to  take  to)  which 
we  immediately  did.  Abandoning 
our  guns'  we  plunged  in  and  swam 
to  the  opposite  shore,  the  live  dog 
taking  kindly  to  our  example. 

Some  little  time  after  they  had  dis- 
appeared among  the  thick  timber  of 
the  bottom,  we  swam  back  to  our 
guns.  After  making  an  examination 
of  the  hogs  we  had  dispatched,  we 
concluded  that  we  had  all  the  bottom 
hunting  that  we  desired  that  day, 
and  struck  out  for  the  uplands. 

We  learned  that  these  wild  hogs 
abound  in  considerable  numbers 
along  the  bottoms  of  Red  River  and 
tributary  streams  in  this  locality. 

The  tusks  of  the  largest  one  that 
we  killed  (an  old  boar)  projected 
fully  four  inches  from  the  jaw,  curv- 
ing outward  and  upward  from  their 
base  on  the  upper  jaw,  and  upward 
and  outward  on  the  lower.  They 
are  frequently  hunted  in  the  fall  and 
winter  after  the  mast  has  fallen  and 
they  have  become  fattened  on  it  and 
make,  it  is  said,  fair  bacon. 


ABOUT  TERRAPIN. 


Sam  Ward,  during  his  reign  at 
Washington  as  king  of  the  Lobby, 
used  to  delight  in  treating  epicurean 
foreigners  to  a  thoroughly  American 
dinner.  His  bill  of  fare  was  iced 
clams,  fish  chowder,  stewed  terrapin, 
canvas-back  ducks,  oysters  on  the 
half  shell,  hominy  and  Albany  celery, 


with  Chateau  Yquem,  dry  cham- 
pagne, and  old  madeira  from  the 
Gadsby  stock.  In  purchasing  terra- 
pin, Mr.  Ward  would  turn  with  dis- 
dain from  the  yellow-bills  and  the 
sliders,  and  purchase  the  diamond 
backs  at  twenty-five  dollars  a  dozen. 
Having  sent  them  to  Welcher's,  he 
would  go  into  the  kitchen  and  super- 
intend their  preparation  after  the 
following  formula:  Immerse  the 
terrapin  in  pure  spring  water,  boiling 
hot,  for  five  minutes,  to  loosen  the 
skin.  The  skin  is  then  removed  with 
a  knife,  thoroughly  polished  first  to 
free  it  from  any  foreign  substance, 
with  a  piece  of  chamois  leather. 
Then  replace  the  terrapin  in  the 
boiling  water,  the  temperature  of 
which  should  be  regulated  by  a 
thermometer.  When  the  claws  be- 
come so  soft  las  to  pinch  into  a  pulp 
by  a  moderate  pressure  between  the 
thumb  and  forefinger  it  is  sufficiently 
boiled.  Take  them  out  and  remove 
the  bottom  shell  first,  as  the  convex- 
ity of  the  upper  shell  catches  the  rich 
and  savory  juices  which  distinguish 
the  terrapin  from  the  mudturtle  and 
the  slider.  Cut  off  the  head  and 
claws  and  carefully  remove  the  gall 
and  sand  bag.  A  little  of  the  gall 
does  not  impair  the  flavor  of  the  ter- 
rapin, but  the  sand  bag  requires  the 
skilful  touch  of  a  surgeon,  and  the 
heart  of  a  lion,  the  eye  of  an  eagle 
and  the  hand  of  a  lady.  Cut  up  the 
remainder  into  pieces  about  a  half  an 
inch  in  length.  Be  careful  to  pre- 
serve all  the  juice.  Put  in  a  chafing 
dish  and  add  a  dressing  of  fine  flour, 
the  yolk  of  eggs  boiled  so  hard  that 
they  are  mushy,  quantum  sufficit  of 
butter  fresh  from  the  dairy,  salt  to 
taste,  red  pepper,  a  large  wineglass 
of  very  old  Madeira  (to  each  terra- 
pin) and  a  small  quantity  of  rich 
cream.  The  dish,  like  everythmg 
else  fit  to  eat,  except  Roman  punch 


818 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


and  Stilton  cheese,  should  be  served 
smoking  hot;  some  persons  have 
been  known  to  season  with  spices, 
but  this,  like  the  rank  perfume  which 
exhales  from  the  handkerchief  of 
under-bred  people,  is  apt  to  arouse 
suspicion.  Terrapin  should  be  eaten 
only  at  night  and  then  only  by  very 
honest  men.  To  slightly  paraphrase 
Dr.  Boteler:  "A  better  shell  fish 
than  the  terrapin  might  have  been 
made,  but  one  never  was  made." — 
^^  Per  ley'''*  in  Boston  Budget. 


Efforts  rather  to  preserve  terra- 
pins than  to  propagate  them  have 
not  yet  been  very  successful.  Ter- 
rapins may  be  kept  in  an  enclosure 
from  Summer  to  Winter,  but  it  is  at 
the  sacrifice  of  their  delicacy  as  food, 
penned  terrapins  losing  their  fine 
flavor  and  becoming  ,  tough  and 
stringy.  Some  years  ago  a  discovery 
was  made  as  to  a  new  method  of 
feeding  terrapins.  In  Washington, 
where  some  terrapins  had  been  put 
in  a  pond,  a  neighboring  field  of 
clover  had  been  cut.  Some  of  the 
clover  having  fallen  from  the  scythe 
into  the  pond,  the  terrapins  were 
seen  to  eat  it  with  the  same  avidity 
as  would  a  cow. 


TERRAPIN  -  FISHING. 

"  Boil  your  terrapin  for  two  hours, 
until  the  skin  on  the  legs  peels  off; 
the  pick  the  terrapin  out  of  the  shell 
and  remove  its  gall-sac;  then  stew, 
by  adding  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  a  taste  of  red  pepper  and  the 
squeeze  of  a  half  lemon;  put  as  much 
water  as  will  stew,  pour  in  a  dash  of 
sherry,  and  leave  the  rest  to  nature^'' 

Thus  "Tommy"  Boylan,  of  Guy's, 
in  Baltimore,  to  the  artist  and  the 
writer,  and  there  is  no  better  autho- 
rity on  terrapin  from  Savannah  to 
the  Pata^sco  River. 


Turtle  may  be  fit  for  aldermen; 
but  terrapin  is  food  for  princes,  and 
a  terrapin-stew  might  be  served  by 
Hebe  to  the  immortal  gods  in  high 
Olympus. 

Terrapin  are  caught  from  Savan- 
nah and  Charleston  up  to  the  Pa- 
tapsco  River  at  Baltimore,  while  the 
genuine  "diamond-back"  is  only  to 
be  found  in  the  upper  Chesapeake 
and  its  tributaries.  A  diamond-back 
never  measures  less  than  seven  inches 
in  length  on  the  under  shell,  a  seven- 
inch  being  known  as  a  "  count  ter- 
rapin," while  anything  under  the 
length  of  a  "  count "  does  not  count. 
Ten  inches  long  and  eight  pounds  in 
weight  is  reckoned  a  very  large  ter- 
rapin, the  seven-inches  weighing,  on 
an  average,  four  pounds. 

During  the  season,  terrapins  sell 
for  $30  to  $38  per  dozen;  while 
"sliders" — common  river  turtles, 
principally  caught  in  the  James 
River — which  sell  at  from  $6  to  $8 
per  dozen,  are  palmed  off  by  skill- 
ful restaurateurs  as  genuine  diamond- 
backs  on  unwary  but  ambitious 
guests,  at  a  dollar  and  a  half  the 
dish. 

The  male  terrapin  is  known  as  the 
"bull,"  the  female  as  the  "cow,"  the 
lady  being  more  in  request  on  account 
of  her  thirty  eggs,  which  are  used  to 
garnish  the  delectable  dish. 

The  artist  and  I  having  consigned 
our  lives  and  limbs  to  the  custody  of 
the  darkest  darkey  my  eyes  ever 
alighted  upon,  and  to  the  most  rickety 
of  crazy  skiffs,  were  paddled  up  a 
small  tributary  of  the  Chesapeake 
Bay,  situated  at  about  six  miles  from 
Annapolis,  on  a  terrapin-searching 
expedition.  Having  quitted  the  sanc- 
tuary of  the  boat  for  the  more  genial 
atmosphere  of  the  mud,  our  darkey, 
who  was  armed  with  a  long,  thin 
pole,  commenced  to  probe  the  bot- 
tom— he  was  wading  waist-deep — or, 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT. 


219 


to  use  the  technical  term,  to  "sound" 
for  terrapin.  His  practiced  sense  of 
touch  tells  him  when  he  taps  terra- 
pin, and  if  they  are  numerous,  he 
marks  his  prey,  and  returns  to  grab 
them  with  a  net. 

On  this  occasion  the  "  birds  "  —  as 
bon  viveurs  love  to  call  them,  although 
terrapin  is  used  as  fish  by  the  most 
devout  Catholics  in  the  severest  or 
Lenten  time — were  plentiful,  and  our 
darkey,  having  put  us  ashore,  very 
soon  returned  with  a  boat  containing 
his  mate,  nets,  sounding-poles,  rakes 
and  other  impedi?nenta  of  his  calling, 
a  business  that  pays  the  catcher, 
according  to  luck,  from  $5  to  $50  a 
week. 

The  haul,  which  was  watched  by 
a  luckless  fisherman  with  consider- 
able envy,  proved  a  good  one,  the 
ground  being  literally  cut  from  under 
the  feet  of  the  terrapin,  and  there 
were  vast  expansive  grins,  accom- 
panied by  chuckles  loud  and  deep,  as 
the  well- laden  boat  rowed  back  with 
its  precious  freight  to  the  quaint  old 
capital  of  Maryland. 

Terrapins  are  jealously  guarded 
by  the  law,  and  a  stringent  Act 
exists  which  protects  diamond-back 
terrapin  in  the  waters  of  the  State  of 
Maryland.  The  fishing  opens  on 
the  first  of  November  and  terminates 
on  the  thirty-first  of  March.  It  is 
unlawful  to  catch  any  terrapin  of  a 
size  less  than  five  inches  on  the  bot- 
tom of  the  shell,  or  to  interfere  with 
or  destroy  the  diamond-back  terra- 
pin's eggs.  It  is  stated  that  thirty 
years  ago  the  dealers  found  it  diffi- 
cult to  sell  terrapin  at  $6  a  dozen, 
and  now  the  difl5culty  lies  in  obtain- 
ing them  at  any  price.  Their  num- 
bers are  rapidly  decreasing,  and  un- 
less some  effective  protective  means 
are  forthwith  taken,  a  terrapin  will 
indeed  prove  a  rara  avis  in  terris. 

Sliders  are  plentiful  in  the  tribut- 


aries of  the  Chesapeake,  as  also  are 
"snappers."  Turtles  are  fished  for 
in  this  way:  The  fisherman  plants 
poles,  sometimes  a  hundred,  in  the 
middle  of  the  stream ;  to  each  pole 
he  fastens  a  line,  to  which  is  attached 
a  hook  baited  with  salted  eel.  The 
snapper  grabs  bait  and  hook,  and  is 
hauled  up,  always  vicious  and  despe- 
rate. 

The  fishermen  around  these  trib- 
utaries take  a  thousand  pounds' 
weight  of  turtle  a  week,  which  they 
sell  at  ten  cents  a  pound.  The  snap- 
pers' eggs,  about  the  size  of  marbles, 
are  considered  a  great  delicacy. 

Apropos  of  turtle  and  terrapin,  the 
following  is  the  menu  of  a  perfect 
Maryland  dinner,  as  arranged  by 
"one  of  the  knowing  ones": 

"Four  small  oysters  from  Lyn- 
haven  Bay ;  terrapin  a  la  Maryland ; 
canvas-back  ducks;  a  small  salad  of 
crab  and  lettuce.  Vegetables — baked 
Irish  potatoes;  fried  hominy  cakes 
and  plain  celery." — Magazine, 


THE  CONSUMPTION  OF  ICE  CREAM. 


Enormous  quantities  of  ice  cream 
are  consumed  every  day  in  New 
York  city  in  warm  wether.  On  the 
Fourth  of  July  the  supply,  though 
unusually  large,  was  nearly  exhausted 
by  ten  o'clock  at  night.  Ice  cream, 
like  ice,  in  old  times  used  to  be  con- 
sidered a  luxury  in  New  York  in- 
stead of  a  necessity,  and  old  Gotham- 
ites  recall  with  pleasure  the  memories 
of  Vauxhall  Garden,  Niblo's,  Castle 
Garden  and  other  open-air  resorts 
where  ice  cream,  ices  and  Roman 
punches  were  served  during  the  dog 
days.  In  those  days  a  quarter  of  a 
dollar  was  considered  a  fair  evening's 
investment  for  a  young  man  treating 
a  single  fair  friend,  as  the  highest 
price  for  ice  cream  was  "sixpence" 
a  plate,  and   an  ice  was  thrown  in 


920 


COOKING  FOR  PROFIT, 


for  a  "  shilling."  A  first-rate  Prin- 
dpa  cigar  for  two  cents  would  top 
off  the  treat. 

The  old  times  have  changed  and 
the  cool  gardens  have  vanished.  Ice 
cream  is  now  considered  as  much  of 
a  necessity  as  ice,  and  is  served  as 
regularly  at  the  tables  of  private 
families  as  at  hotels  and  restaurants. 
Gardens  have  given  place  to  "sa- 
loons," where  ice  cream,  ices  and 
cakes  are  exclusively  served.  Some 
of  the  most  aristocratic  of  these 
saloons  are  elegantly  and  expensively 
furnished,  and  some  are  in  the  rear 
of  bakeries  and  confectionary  stores. 
From  Fifth  avenue  to  Grand  street, 
however,  all  are  alike  in  having 
marble-top  tallies  and  one  or  more 
gilt  mirrors.  It  is  a  singular  fact 
that  every  ice  cream  saloon,  whether 
of  high  or  low  degree,  has  a  gilt- 
framed  mirror  and  marble-top  tables, 
and  palm-leaf  fans  are  also  much 
affected. 

It  is  not  merely  the  wealthy  or 
those  in  moderate  circumstances  who 
cat  ice  cream.  From  the  costly  pist- 
ache  or  Neapolitaine  brick  there  is 
a  gradual  descent  to  ice  cream  at  ten 
cents  a  plate  on  the  extreme  east  and 
west  sides.  Then  by  a  sudden  bound 
an  open-air  tariff  of  one  or  two  cents 
a  plate  is  reached,  so  that  the  cooling 
cream  is  within  the  means  of  every 
street  urchin.  The  plates  are  small 
and  no  spoons  are  furnished,  and  the 
ice  cream  is  sometimes  a  trifle  gritty, 
but  still  it  is  ice  cream. 

A  large  manufacturer  said :  "  You 
might  as  well  try  to  find  out  how 
many  cigan  are    smoked    or  how 


many  cups  of  coffee  or  tea  are  used 
every  day  as  try  to  find  out  how 
much  ice  cream  is  consumed.  I  can 
tell  you  how  much  I  sell  daily,  but 
there  are  several  other  large  manu- 
facturers. We  supply  a  good  many 
hotels  and  restaurants,  but  many 
other  hotels  and  restaurants  make 
their  own  ice  cream.  We  supply 
hundreds  of  private  families,  but 
hundreds  more  have  their  own  ice 
cream  freezers.  You  see  it's  a  big 
business.  What  are  the  prices  ?  Well, 
the  regular  standard  price  for  ice 
cream  is  forty  cents  for  a  single 
quart,  but  church  fairs,  picnics  and 
excursions  are  supplied  in  large 
quantities  at  twenty.five  cents  a 
quart.  The  regular  retail  price  is 
fifteen  cents  a  plate,  but  many  fairs 
and  picnics  sell  small  plates  for  ten 
cents.  Ours  is  a  good,  pure  article 
of  cream;  but,  of  course,  fancy  ice 
creams  are  sold  at  wholesale  and 
retail  for  more  than  double  our  rates. 
We  sell  to  customers  outside  of  the 
city,  and  have  now  an  order  for  five 
hundred  quarts  to  go  some  distance 
out  on  Long  Island. 

"  The  sale  of  ice  cream  varies,  of 
course,  with  the  weather,  but  it  is  a 
staple  article  of  consumption  all  the 
year  round.  Some  families  use 
twenty  to  thirty  quarts  a  week,  and 
even  then  their  youngsters  will  come 
and  buy  it  in  boxes.  Healthy  ?  Why, 
there  is  nothing  more  healthy  than 
pure  ice  cream.  Many  people  actu- 
ally eat  it  at  breakfast.  Vanilla  is 
the  standard  flavor,  but  we  sell  large 
quantities  of  strawberry,  chocolate 
and  other  flavors.'' 


ANALYTICAL  INDEX. 


^The  Numbers  Refer  to  the  Recipe  and  Not  to  the  Pages.-^j^ 


About  whipped  cream,  863. 
Allemande  sauce,  848. 
Almond  cake,  285. 

cream  cake,  1079. 

macaroons,  457. 

rings  and  fingers,  463. 
Andalusian  soup,  801. 
Angel  food  cake,  2. 
Angelica  punch,  128. 
Apples,  fned,  74- 
Apple  pie,  25,  926,  178. 

dumplings,  baked,  69. 

cobbler,  400- 

shortcake,  398. 
Apricots  a  la  Colbert,  875. 
Apricot  ice,  164. 

ice  cream,  950- 
Arabian  biscoscha,  1059. 
Art  in  cutting  eggs,  858. 

mincing  parsley,  859. 
Artichokes  to  cook,  160. 
Asparagus  on  toast,  66. 
Aspic  jelly,  692. 

Bacon  and  greens.  661. 
Baltimore  butter  pie,  577. 
Bananas,  compote  a  la  Rich 

elieu,  1087. 
Banana  ice  cream,  1095. 

fritters,  1096. 
Barley  soups,  683,  969,  727. 

pudding,  baked,  1089. 
Bass,  fried  with  bacon,  106. 

broiled,  666. 
Batter  cakes,  buckwheat,  104. 
bread,  405- 

clabber,  cheapest,  535. 
com,  407,  408. 
flannel,  403. 
graham,  406,  590. 
rice,  409,  647. 
yeast-raised,  627. 
Bavarian  cream,  864,  865. 
Beans  and  pork,  baked,  386. 
Boston  baked  in  jars,  566. 
soup,  182,  755. 
Bearnaise  sauce,  740. 
Beef  {see  Entrees). 
celery,  479. 

chipped  in  cream,  648. 
corned  in  one  day,  649. 
heart  baked,  186.' 
rib,  ends  of,  144. 


Beef,  roast,  575, 170. 

round  of  for  steaks,  616. 
soup  a  I'Anglaise,  659. 
a  la  mode,  10. 
Beefsteak,  cheap,  64. 
cooking  tough,  518. 
gravy,  522. 
individual  hotel,  85. 
minced,  86. 
old  fashion,  84. 
porterhouse,  43. 
potted,  591. 
restaurant,  small,  63. 
sirloin,  47. 
tenderloin,  38. 
with  French  peas,  50. 
mushrooms,  48. 
onions,  52. 
oysters,  49. 
tomato  sauce,  61. 
Beef  tongue  a  I'ecarlate,  143. 

with  horseradish,  107. 
BeeU  in  sauce,  687,  638. 
Beet  greens,  614. 
Beer,  ginger,  472. 
home  made,  470. 
molasses,  471. 
Beignets  a  la  vanille,  155. 

souffles,  753. 
Bill  of  groceries,  520. 
Birdsnest  pudding,  851. 
Biscuits,  baking  powder,  616. 
Bismarks,  271. 
Bisque  ice  creams,  206. 
Bisque  of  lobster,  1081. 
Blackberry  meringue,  396. 
Black  cake,  rich,  836. 
Blanc  mange,  1066. 
Blanquette  of  lamb,  602. 
Blueberry  shortcake,  992. 
Boned  chicken   with  tru/Bes, 

943. 
Boned  turkey,  853. 
Bordelaise  sauce,  987. 
Boston  brown  bread,  387. 

cream  puffs,  288. 
Brains  {see  Entrees'). 
Brandy  snaps,  929,  420. 
Bread,  brown,  387. 
corn,  fine,  599. 

without  eggs,  626. 
fine  wheat,  544. 
graham,  596- 
plain,  625. 


Brochettes    of    kidneys    and 

ham,  776. 
Brown  gravy  or    espagnole^ 

576. 
Brussels  sprouts,  1083- 
Buns  currant,  267. 

cinnamon,  268. 

Chelsea,  619. 
Butter  rolls,  607. 

pie,  577,  617. 

sauce,  best,  573,  674 

sponge  cake,  561. 

Cake,  almond,  286. 
cream,  1079. 
angel  food,  2- 
Arabian  biscoscha,  1059. 
black  fruit,  836- 
Boston  cream  puffs,  288. 
brandy  snaps,  929. 
butter  sponge,  561. 
chocolate,  best,  894. 
eclairs,  296. 
layer,  634. 
meringues,  462. 
cocoanut  eclairs,  293. 
macaroons,  1021. 
cookies,  680. 
citron,  wthout  eggs,  658. 
cookies,  ginger,  418. 
rich,  412. 
good,  411. 

without  eggs,  410,  645. 
cream  or  Washington,  299. 

puffs,  290, 
delicate,  770. 
dream,  622. 
drop,  284. 
Florentine,  302. 
frosting  without  egg^,  68Si 
fruit  without  eggs,  681. 
rich,  wedding,  1092. 
ginger  sponge,  422. 
common,  423. 
nuts,  419,  421. 
snaps,  416,  417. 
wafers,  6. 
golden,  965. 
icing  for,  705,  404. 
jellv  roll,  7- 
jumbles,  415,  283. 
lady  fingers,  4. 
layer,  633. 


11. 


Cakes. 

macaroon,  287. 
meringues  a  la  creme,  460. 
molasses  fruit,  cheap,  578- 
pound,  HSl. 
Napoleon,  300. 
Neapolitan,  703. 
-■     New  England,  275- 

oransre,  8G7- 
,'     ornamented  fruit,  704 
pound  fruit,  9. 

varieties,  734. 
queen,  1007. 
rusks,  277. 
Saratoga,  301. 
Scotch  seed,  273. 

tea,  274. 
spice,  without  eggs,  640- 
sponge,  butter,  561. 

common,  975. 

small,  282. 

squares,  cheap,  281. 

Savoy,  1090. 
star  kisses,  5. 
sultana,  783. 
transparent  puffs,  292. 
■wafer  jumbles,  283. 
wedding,  941,  1092. 
white,  632,  609,  770,  622. 
yeast-raised  plum,  276. 

Cabinet  pudding,  1008,  1019. 
Cabbage,  818,  1088- 
Calf s  head,  turtle  style,  796. 
soup  a   la  Portuguaise, 

1022. 
fried  in  batter,  988. 

foot  jelly,  693. 
Canapes  au  fromage,  81. 
Candies,  424  to  463. 
Candied  yams,  1097. 
Canned  vegetables,  567. 
Caper  sauce,  143. 
Caramel  ice  cream,  187. 
Cardinal  sauce,  999. 
Carp,  1082. 

Carrots,  1042, 1018,  1005,  936. 
Catawba  cup,  478. 
Catfish,  1063. 
Cauliflower,  158. 
Celery  and  beef  tea,  479. 

cream  soup,  116, 
Charlotte-russe,    three    ways, 
861. 

individual,  six  ways,  862- 
Cheese,  cream,  389. 

smearkase,  388. 

fondue,  909. 
Cherry  ice  cream,  212,  213. 

pie,  6G5. 

pudding,  steamed,  176. 

sherbet,  232. 


Cherry  tartlets,  134. 

water  ice,  242. 
Chicken  a  la  Bechamel,  1047- 

boned,  with  truffles,  943. 

croquettes,  126. 

cutlets,  Bordeiaise,  872. 

fricassee,  723- 

liver  croustades,  873. 
with  puree  potatoes,1065. 

pie,  American  style,  850. 
plain,  110. 

pot-pie,  1015. 

roast,  916. 

salad  in  form,  857. 

saute  with  risotto,  960. 

with  aspic  jellv  691. 

with  salt  pork^  1038. 
Chili  sauce,  1094. 
Chipped  beef  in  cream,  643. 
Chocolate,  36. 

cake  without  eggs,  655. 

cake,  best,  894. 

cream,  912. 

cup  cnstard,  993. 

icing,  712. 

ice  cream,  203. 

meringues,  462. 
Chow-chow,  home  made,  19. 
Cider  punch,  476. 
Civet  of  rabbit,  a  la  chasseur, 

1064. 
Cinnamon  pudding,  792. 
Clabber  batter  cakes,  535. 
Clam  chowder,  Boston  style, 
345. 

Conev  Island,  344. 
baked  346. 

patties,  341. 

soup,  hotel,  347. 
a  la  creme,  348. 
Clams,  fricasseed  on  toast,  340. 

on  half  shell,  335. 

raw,  138. 

scalloped  half  shell,  338. 
party  dinner,  339. 

shell  roast,  337- 

soft  shell,  fried,  342. 
Claremont  sauce,  777. 
Claret  cup,  477. 
Cocoanut  caramels,  8. 

custard  pie,  621. 

eclairs,  293. 

macaroons,  1021. 

pie,  1G3. 

pudding,  frozen,  220. 

white  custard,  677. 
Codfish  balls,  911. 

stewed  with  potatoes,  904. 
Coffee,  80. 

and  cognac,  37. 

cakes,  262  to  265. 

family,  31. 


Coffee,  French,  32. 

iced,  304. 

ice  cream,  762. 

trouble  with  the,  557. 

white,  949. 
Compressed  veast,  535. 
Compote  of  bananas,  1087. 
Consomme  royal,  139. 
Cooking  sweetbreads,  558. 
Corned  beef,  brine,  650. 
hash,  100. 
stew,  656. 
tongue,  143- 
Corn  batter  cakes,  407- 

bread,  026,  599. 

fritters   or   mock    oysters, 
925,  817. 

green    corn,   grated,  1017, 
1007. 

green  corn  pudding,  1027, 
1007. 

Indian  pudding,  907,  884. 

mush,  83. 

rolls  or  gems,  286. 

starch  pastry  cream,  291. 
puffs,  290. 
puddinjjs,  639,  689. 
jellv,  039. 

stewed,  989. 

with  tomatoes,  807. 
Cottage  pudding,  547. 
Courtbouillon,  786. 
Crab,canned,devilled,  378,501. 

devilled,  377,  501. 

dressed,  376. 

salad,  131,  375. 
Crabs,  buttered,  379. 

soft  shell,  373,  374,  72. 

to  boil,  372. 
Cracked  wheat  mush,  381. 

pudding,  392,  820. 
Cream,  Bavarian,  864. 

curd  pudding,  538. 

maraschino,  866. 

rolls,  260. 

Roman,  194- 

soup  (see  soups). 

whipped,  863. 
Crepinettes,  636. 
Croaker  in  batter,  888- 
Croquettes,  chicken,  126. 

lobster,  366,  1026. 

potato,  889. 

rice,  188- 
Croustades,  potato,  874- 

rice,  924. 
Croutons  for  soup,  584. 

ornamental,  603. 

soufilees,  786. 
Croute-au-pot,  821. 
Cucumbers,  salad,  149. 

stewed,  127- 


in. 


Cup  and  spoon  measure,  1. 

Doughnuts,  Bismarks, 

271. 

Eggs,  poached,  96. 

Currant  suet  ro.l,  809- 

plain,  269. 

on  toast,  fancy,  554. 

Curry,  fish  baked  with,  794. 

Ducks,  broiled,  129. 

scrambled,  country,  93- 

sauce,  795- 

shirred,  94. 

Custard,  baked,  512. 

Eclairs  a  la  creme,  782 

stewed.  541. 

in  cups,  394. 

cocoanut,  293. 

Egg  lemonade,  474. 

boiled,  136. 

chocolate,  296- 

Egg  plant,  breaaed,  Med,  1050. 

fritters,  193. 

Eggs,  buttered,  589- 

plain,  125. 

pie,  without  eggs,  577. 

boiling  for  large  nu 

mbers, 

stewed,  1086- 

97. 

Egg  quenelles,  797,  896. 

Doughnuts  bread,    cheapest, 

fried,  95. 

English  fruit  pies,  303. 

270. 

omelets,  77  to  92. 

Eve's  pudding,  675. 

ENTREES  AND  RESTAURANT  ORDERS, 


entrees. 

Bacon  and  Cabbage,  169. 

Beef  a  la  Mode,  Allemande, '917. 

Jardiniere,  750. 

Parisienne,  881. 
Beef  and  Green  Peas,  a  la  Turque,  1058. 
Beef  and  Fried  Squash,  a  la  Creole, 
Beef  Heart,  Smothered  with  Onions, 

Stuffed  and  Baked,  186. 
Blanquette  of  Lamb  with  Peas,  602. 
Breast  of  Lamb,  a  la  Jardiniere,  905. 

of  Veal,  a  I'Anglaise,  922. 
Braised  Mutton  with  Nudels,  918. 

Tongue,  a  la  Flamande,  765. 
Brochettes  of  Kidneys,  a  la  Claremont, 

776. 

Liver,  a  la  Bretonne,  731. 
Brisket  of  Veal,  a  la  Marechale,  840. 
Buttered  Crab  on  Toast,  379. 

Eggs  on  Toast,  589. 

Lobster  on  Toast,  363. 

Shrimp  on  Toast,  370. 
Calf  s  Head,  a  la  Tortue,  796. 

Fried  in  Batter,  988. 
Calf's  Brains  in  Batter,  Remoulade  1003. 
Canapes  au  Fromage,  81. 
Catfish,  Stewed  with  Tomatoes,  1063. 
Cheese  Fondue,  909. 
Chicken  a  la  Bechamel,  1047. 

au  Puree  de  Marrons,  1057. 

Croquettes  with  French  Peas,  126. 

Cutlets  a  la  Bordelaise,  872. 

Liver  Croustades,  873. 

Giblets  in  Rice  Cases,  923. 

Giblets  Sautes,  with  Rice,  1025. 

Pot  Pie,  Country  Style,  1015. 

Pie,  American  Style,  850. 

Pie,  plain,  HO. 
Civet  of  Rabbit,  a  la  Chasseur,  1064. 
Clam  Chowder,  Baked,  346. 
Clams,  Fricasseed  on  Toast,  344 
Clam  Patlies,  341. 
Clams,  Scalloped,  en  Coquille,  338. 

Soft  Shell,  Fried,  342. 

Stewed.  336. 


Entrees. 

Collops  of  Beef,  a  la  Macedoine,  985. 
Corned  Beef  Hash,  100. 

Stew  with  Potatoes. 
Corn  Fritters,  Marvland  Stvle,  925. 
Crabs,  Soft  Shell,  374. 
Crepinettes  of  Veal,  a  la  Toulouse,  636. 
Curry  of  Veal,  a  la  Calcutta,  1048- 
Cutlets  of  Sweetbreads,  a  la  Victoria,  883. 
Ducks  with  Green  Peas,  129. 
Devilled  Crabs,  501  and  377. 

Ham  with  Puree  of  Potatoes,  741. 
Egg-plant  Stew,  a  la  Turque,  1086. 
Emince  of  Veal,  a  la  Portuguaise,  891. 
Epigramme  of  Lamb,  a  1' Allemande,  751. 

a  la  Bordelaise,  986. 

a  la  Trianon,  716. 
Entrecote  of  Pork  a  la  Dauphin  oise,  759. 
Escalopes  of  Veal  a  la  Bearnaise,  739. 
Fillet  a  la  Chateaubriand,  41. 
Fillet  of  Beef,  larded,  with  Mushrooms, 

120. 
Fricandeau  of  Veal,  a  I'ltalienne,  788. 
Fricassee  of  Chicken,  a  la  Parisienne,  723. 

Veal,  a  la  Francaise,  730. 
Fried  Oysters,  13. 
Giblets  a  la  Parmentier,  1065. 
Grated  Corn  Pudding,  1017. 
Green  Com  Pudding,  1027. 
Grenadins  of  Veal  a  la  Napo.itaine,  774. 
Ham  and  Eggs,  Restaurant,  76. 

Roulettes  with  Puree  of  Potatoes,  741. 
Haricot  of  Mutton,  a  la  Bourgeoise,  724. 
Irish  Stew  with  Vegetables,  60. 
Kidneys  Sautes,  581. 
Kromeskies  a  la  Russe,  760. 

Venitienne,  961. 
Lamb  Cutlets,  a  la  Main  tenon,  946. 

a  la  Nelson,  841. 

with  Peas,  672. 

Gallimanfry,  618. 

Stew,  a  la  Jardiniere,  816. 
Lambs'  Tongues  with  Artichokes,  153. 
Larded  Fillet  of  Beef,  120. 
Liver  and  Bacon,  Restaurant,  80. 


IV. 


Entrees. 

Entrees. 

Lobster  Cutlets,  365. 

Pigeon  or  Squab  Pie,  971. 

a  la  Victoria,  1026. 

Poached  Eggs,  96. 

Croquettes,  366. 

Pork,  Brown  Stew,  lOl. 

in  Shell,  353. 

Cutlets  a  la  Robert,  766. 

in  vinegar,  354. 

Tenderloins,  73. 

Patties,  a  la  Reine,  364. 

Tenderloins  with  Fried  Apples,  74. 

Lyonaise  of  Liver  with  Crusts,  1039. 

Potted  Beefsteak,  591. 

Macaroni,  a  la  Bechamel,  173. 

Rabbit  Pot  Pie,  Country  Style,  64 

a  la  Creole,  1049. 

Ragout  of  Beef,  a  la  Creole,  906. 

a  la  Genoise,  972. 

of  Giblets,  en  Croustade,  923. 

a  la  Palermetane,  934. 

of  Sweetbreads  and  Mushrooms,  172. 

a  la  Rossini,  892. 

of  Veal,  a  la  Julienne,  825. 

and  Cheese,  Ordinary,  585. 

Rissolettes,  a  la  Marseillaise,  843. 

and  Tomatoes,  Italienne,  65. 

Rissoles  of  Sweetbread  with  Truffles,  806- 

with  Creamed  Cheese,  592. 

Roulade  of  Veal,  a  la  Napolitaine,  871. 

Minced  Beefsteak,  86. 

Salmi  of  Grouse  with  Olives,  1085. 

Ham  on  Toast,  513. 

Sautd  of  Chicken  with  Rissotto,  960. 

Turkey  with  Poached  Eggs,  63. 

Scalloped  Salmon,  au  Vin,  772. 

Mushrooms,  Stewed  in  Wine,  121. 

Scalloped  Oysters  (see  Oysters). 

Mussells,  Stewed,  351. 

Scallops,  343. 

Mutton,  a  la  Breton ne,  849. 

Scollops  of  Mutton,  a  la  Provencale,  799. 

a  la  Soubise,  959. 

Scrambled  Brains  in  Patties,  189- 

Stew,  a  ITrlandaise,  933. 

Eggs,  93. 

New  England  Boiled  Dinner,  69. 

Sweetbreads  with  Puree  of  Peas,  832. 

Omelet,  Plain,  87. 

Shirred  Eggs,  94. 

with  Cheese,  91. 

Shrimp  Toast,  371. 

with  Ham,  90. 

Small  Fillets  of  Beef,  a  la  Creole,  1016. 

with  Jelly,  77- 

Small  Patties,  a  la  Toulouse,  790. 

with  Onions,  89. 

Soft  Shell  Clams,  Fried,  342. 

with  Oysters,  78. 

Crabs,  71  and  72. 

with  Parsley,  88. 

Spaghetti  and  Cheese,  a  la  Romaine,  154 

with  Tomatoes,  92. 

Stuffed  Choulder  of  Mutton,  686. 

Oyster  Fritters,  15. 

Stuffed  Brisket  of  Veal,  171. 

Patties,  a  la  Francaise,  829. 

Sucking  Pig,  a  la  Francaise,  1084 

a  la  Princesse,  328. 

Sweetbreads  au  Beurre  Noir,  824. 

a  la  Reine,  327. 

a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel,  651. 

Pies,  individual,  17. 

Scrambled  in  Border,  673. 

Pot  Pie,  18. 

with  Green  Peas,  559. 

Oysters,  Boston  Fancy,  820. 

Timbales  of  Macaroni,  a  la  Rossini,  892. 

Broiled,  315. 

Tripe,  Broiled  or  Fried,  75. 

Broiled  in  Bacon,  317. 

Veal  Cutlets,  a  la  Main  tenon,  1002. 

Fried,  313. 

Cutlets,  a  la  Milanaise,  899. 

Fried  in  Butter,  312. 

Patties,  a  la  Bechamel,  662. 

Pan  Roast  on  Toast,  321. 

Pie,  a  la  Fermiere,  882. 

Scalloped,  Coney  Island  Style,  826. 

Stew,  a  la  Milanaise,  805. 

Steamed,  318. 

VinaigretteofBrains,alaProvencale,900. 

Partridge  Souffles  in  Cases,  948. 

Welsh  Rarebit,  three  ways,  908. 

Fish,  a  la  Bechamel,  684. 
a  la  Cardinal,  998. 

Chambord,  847. 

Chevaliere,  670. 

Dieppoise,  879. 
I'Ecossaise,  764. 

Espagnole,  728. 
a  la  Genevoise,  931. 

Genoise,  982. 

Horly,  870. 
I'Indienne,  794. 

Italienne,  838. 


Fish  a  la  Joinville,  897. 

Maitre  d'Hotel,  58. 
Margate,  1013. 
Maryland,  1036. 
Mexico,  957- 
Momy,  814. 
Norm'andie,  1067. 
Palatka,  1055. 
Point  Shirlev,  660. 
Remoulade,  888. 
Tartare,  830. 
Venitienne,  802- 


Fish  a  la  Victoria,  1026. 
au  Courtbouilion,  786. 

Gratin,  757,  601. 
aux  Fines  Herbes,  737. 
Bisque,  of,  1081. 
Scalloped,  772. 
Steaks,  58. 
Water  Souchet,  1023. 

Fish,  Kinds. 

Bass,  666,  747,  106. 
Carp,  1082. 


V. 


Fish,  Kinds. 
Catfish,  1063. 
Codfish,  904,  56,  911. 
Croaker,  888. 
Flounder,  838. 
Halibut,  1036. 
Lake  Trout,  550. 
Mackerel,  1043. 
Mackinaw  Trout,  570. 
Muskallonge,  721. 
Panfish,  1013,  888. 
Perch,  1023. 
Pickrel,  606,  610,  525. 
Pike,  982. 
Redfish,  786,  847- 
Red  Snapper,  794,  117. 
Salmon,  910,757,764,58. 
Salmon  Trout,  597. 
Sardines,  502. 
Sea  Bass,  141. 
Sheephead,  870,  879. 
Sole,  830. 
Trout,  931,  670. 
Whitefish,  822, 802,184,728. 

Fairy  gingerbread,  6. 
Family  roast  beef,  575. 
Fancy  toast  for  poached  eggs, 

555. 
Farina  puddings,  761  and  991. 
Fig  creams,  438. 

paste,  451. 
Fillet  of  beef,  120,  41. 
Fillets  of  sole,  830. 

fish,  1069,  737. 
Floating  island,  938. 
Florentine  meringue,  302, 702. 
Flounder,  838. 
Forcemeat  balls,  798. 

for  boned  turkey,  855. 
Frangipane  or  pastry  cream, 

181. 
French  coffee  cakes,  263. 

cream  puffs,  297. 

peas,  50. 

potato  fritters,  932. 

rolls,  532. 
Fried  pies,  272. 
Fritters,  custard  or  fried  cream 
193. 

green  corn,  81T. 

pineapple,  838. 

plain,  67. 

potato,  982. 

queen,  753. 

Spanish  puff,  155. 
Frozen  buttermilk,  1051. 

puddings,  219. 

punches,  245. 
Frosted  grapes,  452. 

oranges,  454. 
Fruit  ice  creams,  211. 


Galantine  en  bellevue,  858. 
Game  sauce,  1074. 
German  almond  cake,  286. 

coffee  cakes,  264. 

dumplings,  752. 

puffs,  623. 

sugar  tops,  414. 
Gingerbread,    cheapest,    266, 

423. 
Ginger  cake,  best,  422. 

cookies,  418. 

snaps,  416,  417. 

nuts,  419,  421. 

pop,  472. 

wafers,  6. 
Golden  buck,  81. 

cake,  965. 
Goose  roast,  148. 
Graham  batter  cakes,  cheap- 
est, 590. 

pocket  books,  596. 

rolls,  261. 
Grapes,  glazed  with  sugar,  463. 
Grouse  roast,  1073. 

salmi  of,  1085. 
Guinea  chicken,  984. 
Gumbo  soup,  1054. 

Ham,  baked,  11. 

broiled,  553. 

devilled,  741. 

how  to  cut,  552. 

minced,  on  toast,  518. 

roast,  12,  1070. 
Halibut,  Maryland  style,  1036. 
Hard  sauce,  177. 
Hominy  fried,  1037. 

honie  made,  382. 
Hot  slaw,  778. 
Huckleberry  pudding,  937. 
Hulled  corn,  382. 

Ice  Cream, 

best  vanilla,  196. 
bisques,  205  to  210. 
caramel,  137. 
chocolate,  203. 
coffee,  762. 
corn  starch,  199. 
cost  of,  197. 

frozen  buttermilk,  1051. 
frozen  custard,  200,  204. 
New  York,  201. 
tea,  828. 

white  mountain,  202. 
Ice  Creams,  fruit,  211. 
apricot,  950. 
banana,  1095. 
cherry,  red,  218. 

white,  212. 
peach,  217. 
pineapple,  214,  206. 


Ice  creams,   stiawberry,  216 
218,  1078. 
white  grape,  216. 

Ice  Puddings,  ai9. 

apple,  224. 
cocoa  nut,  220. 
Neapolitan,  227. 
nesselrode,  226. 
rice,  222. 
sago,  223. 
tapioca,  221. 
tutti  frutti,  226. 

Ice  Punch,  246. 

angelica,  128. 
cardinal,  254. 
champagne,  256. 
imperial,  253. 
kirsch,  247- 
maraschino,  248. 
roman,  246. 
raspberry,  250. 
regents,  251. 
strawberry,  249. 
Victoria,  252. 

Ice  Sherbets,  229  to28S. 
Ice  Water,  236. 

apricot,  164. 
cherry,  242. 
grape,  244. 
lemon,  238, 179. 
orange,  241. 
peach,  243. 
pineapple,  240. 
raspberry,  239. 

Iced  coffee,  304. 

Icing  and  ornamenting,  464. 

boiled,  706  to  711. 

without  eggs,  635,  705. 
Icing,  pearl  glaze,  3. 
Indian  puddings,  884,  907. 
Italian  pastes,  763. 

sauces,  789,  962. 

soup,  618. 

Jellies,  wine  and  fruit,  466. 
Jelly,  aspic,  695. 

corn  starch,  939* 

calf  s  foot,  693. 

omelet,  77. 

ornamenting,  696* 

one  quart,  ^6. 

roll,  7. 

tapioca,  928. 

vanilla,  835. 
Jumbles,  416. 

wafer,  288. 


VI. 


Kale  or  seakale,  111. 
Kidneys,  brochettes  of,  776. 
Kidneys  sautes,  581. 
Kisses,  chocolate,  4C3. 

egg,  460. 

rose,  461. 

star,  5. 
Kohl-rabi,  1075. 
Kromeskies,  760,  961. 

Lady-fingers,  4. 
Lamb,  {see  Ettirees.) 

roast,  145,  146. 
Lambs  tongues,  153. 
Lemonade,  plain,  473. 

egg,  474. 
Lemon  cream  pies,  23,  192. 

honev,  506. 

pies,  '162.  852. 
without  eggs,  22. 

puddings,  1077,  827. 

sherbet,  179. 
Lima  beans,  674. 
Lincoln  pie,  398. 
Liver,  {see  Entrees.) 
Lobster,  bisque  of,  1081. 

cutlets,  1026,  365. 

croquettes,  366. 

in  shell,  353. 
mayonaise,  355. 
vinegar,  354. 

on  toast,  363. 

palt.c's,  364. 

salads,  180,  356  to  363. 

to  boil,  352. 

IVIacaroni,  {see  Entrees^ 

soup,  648- 
Macaroon  cake,  287. 
Macaroons,  almond,  457. 

cocoanut,  1021. 

common,  458. 
Mackerel,  salt,  1048. 
Maids  of  honor,  505. 
Maraschino  cream,  866. 
Mayonaise  sauce,  151. 
Mead,  468,  467,  469. 
Measures  and  weights,  1. 
Meat  block.  517. 
Meringues,  a  la  creme,  460. 
Meringue,  blackberry,  395. 

florentine,  702. 

raspberry,  604. 

strawberry,  195. 

peach,  396. 

paste,  459. 
Minced  beefsteak,  86. 

potatoes,  82. 

turkey,  63. 
Mincemeat,  27,  29. 
Mince  pie,  26, 
Mint  sauce,  147. 
Mock  turtle  soup,  785w 


Molasses  beer,  471. 

pound  cake,  531. 

fruit  cake,  578. 
Muffins,  102,  582,  646. 
Mulligatawney  soup,  878. 
Mush,  cracked  wheat,  381. 

corn  meal,  83,  98. 

oatmeal,  380,  588. 
Mushrooms,  grades,  48. 

stewed  in  wine,  121. 

with  steak,  48. 
Mussells,  steamed,  349. 

stewed,  351. 

water  souchet,  350. 
Mutton,  {see  Entrees.) 

leg  roast,  185. 

Napoleon  cake,  300. 
Neapolitan  cake,  703. 

ice  cream,  227. 

sauce,  775. 
New   England  boiled  dinner, 

59. 
Nesselrode  ice  pudding,  225. 
Nudels,  or  noodles,  564. 

soup,  565. 

Omelets,  77  to  92. 
Orange  cake,  867. 
Oranges,   glazed   with  sugar, 

456. 
Oysters,  305  to  334  and  13  to  18. 

omelet,  with,  78. 

pot  pie,  18. 

scalloped,  323. 

soup,  332. 

stews,  307  to  311. 

Pain  de  foies  gras,  860. 
Panachee  ice  cream,  701. 
Panfish,  1013. 

Partridge, souffles,in  cases,948. 
Paste,  plain  pie,  20. 

puff,  133. 

suet,  21. 
Pastry  cream,  chocolate,  295. 
coffee,  298. 
corn  starch,  291. 
or  custard,  289- 
Patties,  a  la  Toulouse,  790. 

oyster,  327. 
Peach  cobbler,  399. 

ice  cream,  217. 

meringue,  396. 

short  cake,  397. 

water,  ice,  243. 
Peaches  with  rice,  935. 
Pearl  barley  soup,  628. 

glaze,  3. 
Perch,  water  souchet,  1023. 
Pigeon  or  squab  pie,  971. 
Pig,  roast,  108. 
Pike,  982. 


Pineapple  cream  pie,  1009. 
fritters,  833. 
ice,  240. 
ice  cream,  206. 
sauce,  834. 

Pie,  apple,  25,  178,  800,  926. 
apple  cream,  800. 
butter  or  custard  without 
eggs,  777. 
cocoanut  custard,  621. 

white,  677. 
chocolate  butter,  617. 
cherry,  665. 
chicken,  850,  110. 

pot,  1015. 
English  fruit,  303. 
fried,  272. 

lemon,852,22,23,162, 192. 
mince,  28. 

mixed  fruits,  for,  885. 
oyster,  17,  18. 
pigeon,  971. 
pineapple  cream,  1009. 
pumpkin, .24,  811,  630. 
potato  cream,  964. 
rabbit,  64. 
rhubarb,  519,  114. 
spice,  593. 

squash,  24,  811,  630. 
sweet  potato,  1020. 
tomato,  876. 
vinegar,  593. 

Plum  pudding,  769,  901. 
Popovers,  623. 
Pork,  {see  Entrees.) 

roast,  1001. 

tenderloins,  74. 
Porterhouse  steak,  43. 

Potato  boulettes,  898. 
cakes  or  pats,  523. 
cream  pie,  964. 
croquettes,  839. 
cruUs,  1000. 
salad,  718. 

shells  or  croustades,  874 
soup,  528,  921. 

Potatoes,  Algerienne, 
890. 
baked  in  milk,  514. 
Baden-baden,  947. 
Brabant,  715. 
browned,  157. 
broiled,  556. 
Colbert,  915. 
dauphine,  S04. 
duchesse,  831. 
Francaise,  612. 
French  fried,  983. 


VII. 


Potatoes,  fricasseed,  1024. 

frizzed,  773. 

gastronome,  749. 

GermaPi  fried,  511. 

Hollandaise,  722.   ' 

Julienne,  7'29. 

Lyonaise,  563. 

maitre  d'hotel,  174,  970. 

marechale,  758- 

mashed,  112. 

Monaco,  848. 

minced,  82,  542. 

Nantaise,  671. 

poulette,  a  la,  1024 

Saratoga,  682. 

serpentine,  880. 

small,  for  garniture,  142. 

stewed  in  cream,  534. 
Potted  tongue,  699. 
Pot  pie  dumplings,  540. 
Pound  cake  varieties,  734. 

fruit  cake,  9. 

pudding,  steamed,  780- 
Prairie  chickens,  1073. 
Prune  pudding,  919. 
PufEs,  cream,  288. 

transparent,  292. 

French  cream,  297. 
Puff  paste,  133. 
Punch,  Angelica,  128. 

cider,  476. 
Punches,  frozen,  245. 
Pumpkin,  811,  812,  24. 

Pudding,  apple,  baked,6 

steamed,  616. 
Astor  House,  391. 
barlev,  baked,  1089. 
batter,  815. 
birdsnest,  851 
bread,  baked,390. 

custard,  113. 

and  butter,  sliced,  893. 
<:abinet,  ba^ed,  1008. 

steamed,  1019. 
cherry,  steamed,  176. 
cinnamon,  boiled,  792. 
corn  starcli,  baked,  689. 

boiled,  689. 
cottage,  547. 
cracked  wheat,  392. 
cream  curd,  538. 
currant  saet,  809. 
custard,  130. 

baked,  512. 
Eve's,  675. 
farina,  boiled,  761. 

baked,  991. 
frozen,  219. 
ginger,  742. 
gipsy,  927. 
golden  sauce  for,  743. 


Pudding,  huckleberry  rolI,937. 
Indian,  cheap,  baked,  907. 

fruit,  161. 

rich,  884. 
lemon,  boiled,  827. 
soufflee,  1077. 
Nesselrode,  225. 
plum,  boiled,  901. 

baked,  769- 
pound,  steamed,  780. 
prune,  baked,  919. 
queen,  845. 
rice  and  milk,  391. 

baked,  594,  616. 

boiled,  631. 

frozen,  222, 
sago,  baked,  974 

boiled,  1028. 

frozen,  223. 
sponge,  baked,  664. 
steamed  fruit,  cheap,  586. 
spice,  boiled,  742. 
suet,  boiled,  732. 
tapioca  custard,  726. 

without  eggs,  652. 

frozen,  221. 
tipsy,  135. 
West  Point,-  820. 
Yorkshire,  815. 

Queen  cakes,  1007. 
fritters,  753. 
pudding,  845. 
soup,  846. 

Rabbits,  64,  1066. 
Raspberries  and  cream,  608. 
Raspberry  butter  sauce,  676. 

dumplings,  719. 

meringue,  604 

sauce,  653. 

shortcake,  595. 
Refrigerator,  good  hotel,  627. 
Remoulade,  889. 
Rice  batter  cakes,  409,  647- 

cases  or  croustades,  924. 

pudding,  {see  Puddings.) 

southern  style,  768. 

with  cream,  615. 
Ribbon  sandwiches,  945. 
Rissolettes,  843. 
Rissoles,  806. 
Roasting  ears,  973. 
Rolls,  corn,  286. 

cream,  260. 

French,  532. 

graham,  261. 
Roman  cream,  194 

punch,  246. 
Rose  icing,  711. 
Rusks,  277,  280,  657. 


Salad  dressing,  151 ,  357,358. 

cabbage,  361. 

chicken,  150,  857. 

crab,  131,  375,  376. 

cucumber,  149. 

lobster,  189,  353  to  362. 

potato,  718. 

shrimp,  368,  369,  504. 

tomato,  869,  944. 

turkey,  150.* 

water  cress,  152. 
Salmon,  {see  Fish.) 
Sally  lunn,  644. 
Sandwiches,  devilled  ham,  509. 

ribbon,  945. 
Sardines,  502. 
Saratoga  cake,  301. 

chips,  682. 

Sauce,  Allemande,  842. 
Apple  for  meats,  109. 
Bearnaise,  740. 
Bechamel,  662. 
Bordelaise,  987. 
brown  gravv,  578. 
butter,  573. ' 
Cardinal,  999. 
caper,  143- 
champagne,  1071. 
Chili,  1094 
Claremont,  777. 
courtbouillon,  786. 
curry,  795. 
diplomate,    for    puddings, 

810. 
^ggy  57. 

Espagnole,.784. 
for  apple  dumplings,  70,  68. 
frangipane,  181. 
game,  1074. 
hard,  or  butter  and  sugar, 

177. 
Hollandaise,  1097. 
Italian,  brown,  789. 

white,  962. 
Mayonaise,  151. 
mint,  147. 
mustard,  1045. 
Neapolitan,  775. 
orange  or  Bigarrade,  130. 
parsley,  823. 
pineapple,  834. 
piquante,  990. 
remoulade,  889. 
Robert,  767. 
rum,  for  fritters,  150. 
sabayon,  754. 
Scotch  fish,  168. 
shrimp,  118. 
Spanish,  784. 
sweet  veloute,for  puddings, 

733. 


VIII. 


Sauce,  tomato,  51. 

Soup. 

Sweet  Entrees. 

Trianon,  717. 

Consomme  Quenelles,  896. 

Peach  cobbler,  399. 

veloute,  819. 

Royal,  139. 

meringue,  396. 

Venetian  for  fish,  808. 

Solferino,  746- 

Peaches  with  rice,  935. 

Scotch  broth,  683. 

St  Xavier,  930. 

Plain  fritters  with  sauce,67. 

cakes,  273,  274. 

Cream  a  la  Duchesse,  771. 

Pineapple  fritters,  833. 

Scallops,  343. 

of  Barley,  969. 

Queen  fritters,  753. 

Scalloped  oysters,  326. 

of  Celery,  116. 

Rice  croquettes  with  jelly, 

fish,  772. 

of  Potato,  921,  528. 

188. 

Scrambled  brains,  187- 

of  Rice,  600. 

Strawberry  meringue,  195. 

sweetbreads,  832,  678. 

of  Tapioca,  1068. 

Vanilla  or  Spanish  fritter«v 

Sea  bass,  141. 

Corn,  720. 

155. 

Sherbets,  229. 

and  Tomato,  1035. 

Shortcakes,  595,  397,  39a 

Croute-au-Pot,  821. 

Tapioca  custard  pudding,  726. 

Sheephead,  870,  879. 

Croutons  for,  584,  736. 

cream  soup,  1068. 

Shrimps,  504, 118, 367  to  371. 

Gumbo,  1054. 

frozen  pudding,  221. 

Soft  shell  clams,  342. 

Italian,  613. 

jelly,  928. 

crabs,  373. 

Macaroni  Clear,  648. 

pudding  without  eggs,  652. 

Sour  milk  cheese,  888. 

Mock  Turtle,  785. 

Tartar  sauce,  748. 

Spaghetti,  154. 

MuUigatawney,  878. 

Tartlets,  cherry,  134. 

Spanish  sauce,  784. 

Nudel  or  Noodle,  565. 

maids  of  honor,  505. 

Sponge  cake,  1090, 281, 976. 

Ox  Tail,  105. 

Tarts,  apple,  781. 

pudding,  664. 

Oyster,  331  to  334. 

gooseberry,  744. 

Squabs,  Philadelphia,  971. 

Pearl  Barley,  628. 

tomato,  876. 

Squash,  fried. 

Potage,  Alexandrina,  997. 

Tenderloin,  restaurant,  88,  89. 

pie,  24,  811,  630. 

Andalouse,  801. 

pork,  73. 

Squash,  summer,  920,  175 

Bagration,  887. 

Tea  ice  cream,  828. 

Strawberry    ice  cream,    216, 

Conde,  755. 

Tipsy  pudding,  135. 

218,  1078. 

Parmentier,  921. 

Tomatoes,  baked,  844. 

meringue,  195. 

Reine,  546. 

catsup,  1093. 

punch  Romaine,  249. 

St  Germaine,  736. 

mayonaise,  944. 

shortcake,  397. 

Pot-au-Feu,  903. 

preserves,  876. 

Stuffed  fish,  914. 

Puree  of  Beans,  182. 

salad,  869. 

Suet  pie  paste,  21. 

Carrots,  1042. 

sliced,  756. 

Succotash,  826. 

Green  Peas,  735. 

soups,  166,  536,  588. 

Sucking  pig,  108. 

Potatoes,  921. 

sweet,  808. 

Sweetbreads,  (see  Entrees.) 

Tomatoes,  583. 

with  corn,  807. 

^.                   ' 

White  Beans,  755. 

Timbales  of  macaroni,  890- 

Soup. 

Stockboiler,  115. 

Tongue,  caper  sauce. 

A  la  mode  Beef,  10. 

Tapioca  Cream,  1068. 

potted,  699. 

Barley  a  la  Princesse,  727. 

Tomato,  166,  583. 

sandwiches,  698. 

Broth,  683. 

and  Green  Peas,  536. 

with  greens,  765. 

Beef,al'Anglaise,55,  659. 

Vegetable,  140. 

Trianon  sauce,  717. 

Bisque*  of  Lobster,  1081. 
Calf  s  Head,  a  la  Portu- 

Vermicelli,  1062. 

Tripe,  broiled  or  fried,  76. 

Trout,  {see  Fish.) 

guaise,  1022. 

Sweet  Entrees. 

Turkey  minced,  with  eggs,  68> 

Celery  Cream,  116. 

Apple  charlotte. 

roast,  61. 

Clam  Chowder,  344,  345. 

cobbler,  400. 

stuffing,  62. 

Hotel,  347,  348. 

fritters,  833. 

salad,  150. 

Consomme  Brunoise,  718. 

turnovers,  132. 

Tutti  frutti,  226. 

Calcutta,  829. 

Apricots  a  la  Colbert,  875. 

Chatelaine,  837. 

same  ways  as  apples. 

Vanilla  ice  cream,  605. 

Claremont,  981. 

Banana  fritters,  1098. 

jelly,  835. 
Veal,  {see  Entrees.) 

Colbert,  956. 

compote  with  rice,  1087. 

De  Stael,  668. 

Blackberry  meringue,  395. 

stuffed  fillet  of,  537,  171. 

Imperial,  793. 
Italian  Pastes,  763. 

Boston  puff  fritters,  753. 

Vegetable  soup,  140. 

Compotes  of  fruits  same 

Veloute,  819. 

Jardiniere,  637. 
Knickerbocker,  918. 

as  1087. 

Vinaigrette  of  brains,  900. 

Custard  fritters,  193. 

Vinegar  pie,  593. 

Milanaise,  813. 

Creme  frite,  193. 

Paysanne,  1012. 

Farina  fritters,  1004. 

Vegetables. 

Print  a  niere  Royal,  868. 

Pancakes  with  jelly,  408. 

Artichokes,  160. 

IX. 


Vegetables. 

Asparagus,  66. 
Beets,  614,  638,  687. 
Brussells  Sprouts,  1083. 
Butter  Beans,  159.  674. 
Cabbage,  818,  1088. 
Cauliflower,  158. 
Carrots,  1018,  1005,  936. 
Corn,  936, 1027, 1017, 1016, 

989. 

and  Tomatoes,  807. 

Fritters,  817. 
Cucumbers,  127. 
Egg  Plant,  125, 1050, 1086. 
French  Peas,  50. 
Green  Peas,  560. 
Hominy,  1037. 
Hot  Slaw,  778. 
Kaleor  Seakale,  111. 
Kohlrabi,  1075. 
Mu^rooms,  48. 
Onions,  688. 
Rice,  7^«,  615. 
Squash,  175,  920. 
String  Beans,  663,  1076. 
Succotash,  826. 
Sweet  Potatoes,  1056, 1040, 

190. 
Tomatoes,   124,  844,  808, 

766. 
Turnips,  191. 


Vegetables. 

Yams,  candied,  1097. 

Wafer  jumbles,  283. 
Waffles,  679. 
Washington  pie,  299. 
Water  cress,  152. 

ices,  236. 
Wedding  cakes,  941,  1092. 
Welsh  rarebit,  81,  908. 
West  Point  pudding,  820. 
White  cakes,  609,  622,  658,  2. 

coffee,  949. 

Italian  sauce,  962. 

Mountain  ice  cream,  654. 
Wine  and  fruit  jellies,  465. 

Without  Eggs. 

Baltimore  Butter  Pie,  577. 
Batter  Cakes,  627. 
Brandy  Snaps,  41tf. 
Cake  Frosting,  635. 
Cakes,  Chocolate,  656. 

citron,  658. 

layer,  633,  634. 

good  fruit,  681. 

sugar,  410. 

spice,  640. 
Cookies,  645. 
Cocoanut  Cookies,  680. 


Without  Eggs. 

Corn  Starch  Ice  Cream,202 

Pudding,  639. 
Cinnamon  Buns,  268. 
Chelsea  Buns,  619. 
Chocolate  Butter  Pie,  617. 
Clarify  jelly,  697. 
Currant  Buns,  267. 
Doughnuts.  269. 
Gingerbread,  266. 
Ginger  Nuts,  419,  421. 
German  Dumplings,  752. 
Lobster  Salad,  700. 
Lemon  Pie,  22. 
Muffins,  646. 

Macaroni  and  cheese,  629. 
Oysters  Fried,  14. 
Pumpkin  or  Squash  Pie, 

630. 
Puddings,  616. 
Party  Supper,  690. 
Raspberry  Dumplings,  719 
Sweet  Rusks,  657. 
Tapioca  Pudding,  652. 
Waffles,  679. 

Yeast,  common  or  ferment, 
258. 
stock,  257. 
Yellow  icing,  709. 
Yorkshire  pudding,  816. 


ARTICLES  RELATING  TO  THE  COST  OF  BOARD. 


Trouble  with  the  manager,  902. 

Four  thousand  meals,  951. 

Review,  952. 

Groceries  for  4,000,  953. 

Meat,  fish  and  poultry  for  4,000,  066. 

Flour  for  4.000,  966-  ' 

Sugar  for  4,000,  967. 

Coffee  for  4.000,  968- 

Butter  for  4,000,  976. 

Eggs  for  4,000,  977. 

Potatoes  for  4,000,  978. 

Fresh  vegetables  and  fruits  for  4,000,  979. 

Canned  fruits  and  vegetables  for  4,000,  980- 

Milk  and  cream  for  4.000,  994. 

Total  cost  of  provisions  for  4,000,  995. 

How  to  save  twentv  dollars  a  week,  996* 

How  much  they  ea't,  1010. 

How  much  they  drink,  1011. 


How  much  to  serve,  1022. 
Work  and  wages,  1029. 
Laundry  work,  1030. 
Fuel,  light  and  ice,  1081. 
Total  cost  of  board,  1038. 
How  much  profit?  1034. 
How  many  cooks  required?  1041* 
Boarding  the  employes,  1052. 
Boarding  children,  1053. 
Meals  for  lo  or  15  cents,  1060. 
Country  board  at  five  dollars,  1061. 
If — a  bundle  of  suppositions,  1067. 
Keeping  clean  side  towels,  1080. 
How  many  fires?  1091. 
Conclusion  of  Part  Second. 
Artistic  cookery,  and  notes  on  the  London 
Cookery  Exhibition,  lioa 


HOTEL  COOK  BOOKS. 

No.  I. -''THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK." 

(SIXTH  EDITION.) 
DPSrICE,   I»OSTI=-A.I3D,    S2.00. 

EMBRACES  THE  FOLLOWING: 
PART   FIRST— The  Hotel  Book  of  Pine  Pastries,  Ices,  Pies,  Patties,  Cakes,  CreasM,  Caatarda. 

Charlottes,  Jellies  and  Sweet  Entrements  in  Variety. 
PART   SECOND -The  Hotel  Book  of  Puddinars,  Souffles  and  Merin^es.    A  handy  Collection  oi 

Valuable  Recipes,  original,  selected  and  perfected  for  use  in  Hotels  and  EatLog  Houses 

of  every  Grade. 
PART   THIRD— The  Hotel  Book  of  Breads  and  Cakes;  French,   Vienna,  Parker  House,  and  other 

rtoUs,  Muffins,  Waffles,  Tea  Cakes;   Stock  Yeast  and  Ferment;  Yeast  raised  Cakes, 

etc,  etc,  as  made  in  the  best  hotels. 
PART   FOURTH— The  Hotel  Book  of  Salads  and  Cold  Dishes,  Salad  Dressings,  with  and  without 

oil ;  Salads  of  all  kinds,  how  to  make  and  how  to  serre  them;  BonM  Fowls,  Galantines, 

Aspics,  etc,  etc 

The  above  parts  are  all  comprised  in  the  "  American  Pastry  Cook,"  together  with 
a  large  amount  of  valuable  miscellaneous  culinarj  matter. 


No.  2.-'' HOTEL  MEAT  COOKING." 

(FIFTH   EDITION.) 
leiaiOE,   ^OSTI=-A-XID,    S2,00. 

EMBRACES  THE  FOLLOWING: 
PART   FIRST— The  Hotel,  Fish  and  Oyster  Book;  Showing:  aU  the  best  methods  of  Cookinif  Oysten 

and  Fish,  for  ResUnrant  and  Hotel  Service,  tog^ether  with  the  appropriate  Sauces  and 

Ve^tables. 
PART   SECOND— How  to  Cut  Meats,  and  Roast,  Boil  and  Broil.    The  entire  trade  of  the  Hotel 

Meat  Cutter,  Roaster  and  Broiler,  including  •'  Short  Orders,"  Omelets,  etc 
PART    THIRD— The  Hotel  Books  of  Soups  and  Entrees,  comprising  specimens  of  French,  English, 

and  American  Menus,  witn  translations  and  comments.      Showing  how  to  make  up 

Hotel  Bills  of  Fare,  with  all  the  different  varieties  of  Soups  and  Consommes  in  proper 

rotation,  and  a  new  set  of  entrees  or  "  made  dishes"  for  every  day. 
PART   FOURTH— Creole  Cookery  and  Winter  Resort  Specialtiea. 
PART   FI FTH— Cooks'  Scrap  Book— A  Collection  of  Culinary  Stones,  Poems,  Stray  Recipes,  etc,  etc 

Index  of  French  Terms,  an  explanation  and  translation  of  all  the  French  terms  used  in 

the  Book,  alphabetically  arranged. 

By  The  above  parts  are  all  comprised  in  "  Hotel  Meat  Cooking,"  together  with  a 
large  and  varied  selection  of  matter  pertaining  to  this  part  of  the  culinary  arL 


No.  3.-"WHITEHEAD'S  FAMILY  COOK  BOOK." 

A  PROFESSIONAL  COOK'S  BOOK  FOR  HOUSEHOLD  USB. 

Consisting  of  a  series  of  Menus  for  every-day  meals,  and  for  private  entertainments, 
with  minute  instructions  for  making  every  article  named. 


The  Recipes  in  all  these  books  are  properly  headed,  numbered  and  indexed,  for 

nandy  reference. 

The  author  of  this  series  of  Hotel  Cook  Books  is  a  professional  Cook  of  Thirty 
Years'  experience,  and  every  recipe  has  been  tried  and  practically  proved. 

The  above  books  will  be  sent  postpaid  on  receipt  of  price:  "  American  Pastry  Cook," 
$2XX);  *♦  Hotel  Meat  Cooking,"  $2.00;  "Family.  Cook  Book,?'  $i.5a 

Address  all  orders  to 

Jessup  IVhitehead  &  Co., 

PUBLISHERS  OF  HOTEL  COOK  BOOKS, 

183  NORTH  PEORIA  STREET,  -  -  -  CHICAGO,  ILL 


WHITEHEAD'S    NEW    BOOK, 

NUMBER  5, 

The  STEWARD'S  Handbook 

AND  GUIDE  TO  PARTY  CATERING. 
BY  JESSUP  WHITEHEAD. 


PRICE,    POSTPAID,   $3.00. 


EMBRACES   THE   FOLLOWING: 

PART  FIRST— HOTEL  STE WARDING.  Showing  the  Internal  Workings  of 
the  Ameiican  System  of  Hotel  Keeping.  The  Steward's  Dtxties  in 
Detail,  and  in  Relation  to  Other  Heads  of  Departments.  Steward's 
Storekeeping,  Steward's  Bookkeeping,  and  Management  of  Help.  Also, 
Composition  of  Bills  of  Fare,  the  Reasons  Why,  and  Numerous  Illus- 
trative Menus  of  Meals  on  the  American  Plan. 

PART  SECOND  — RESTAURANT  STEWARDING.  Comprising  a  Survey  of 
Various  Styles  of  Restaurants  and  their  Methods,  Club  Stewarding  and 
Catering,  Public  Party  Catering,  Ball  Suppers,  Base  Ball  Lunches,  Hotel 
Banquets,  etc.;  How  to  Prepare  and  How  to  Serve  Them,  with  Numer- 
ous Pattern  Bills  of  Fare  Carried  Out  to  Quantities,  Cost  and  Price  per 
Head. 

PART  THIRD  — COMPRISING  CATERING  FOR  PRIVATE  PARTIES.  A 

Guide  to  Party  Catering,  Wedding  Breakfasts,  Fantasies  of  Party 
Givers,  Model  Small  Menus,  and  Noteworthy  Suppers,  with  Prices 
Charged.  Also,  Catering  on  a  Grand  Scale.  Original  and  Selected 
Examples  of  Mammoth  Catering  Operations,  Showing  the  Systems 
Followed  by  the  Largest  Catering  Establishments  in  the  World.  Also, 
a  Disquisition  on  Head  \\'aiters  and  their  Troops. 

PART  FPURTH— WHITEHEAD'S  DICTIONARY  OF  DISHES,  Culinary 
Terms  and  Various  Information  Pertaining  to  the  Steward's  Depart- 
ment, being  the  Essence  of  all  Cook  Books,  Telling  in  Brief  what  all 
Dishes  and  Sauces  are  or  what  they  should  Look  Like.  What  Materials 
are  Needed  for  and  what  They  are.  How  to  Use  to  Advantage  all  Sorts 
of  Abundant  Provisions,  or  How  to  Keep  Them.  Comprising,  also,  a 
Valuable  Collection  of  Restaurant  Specialties,  Distinctive  National 
Cookery,  Remarks  on  Adulterations,  and  How  to  Detect  Them,  Treat- 
ment and  Service  of  Wine,  and  a  Fund  of  Curious  and  Useful  Informa- 
tion in  Dictionary  Form,  for  Stewards,  Caterers,  Chefs,  Bakers,  and  all 
Hotel  and  Restaurant  Keepers. 

PART   FIFTH  — HOW   TO    FOLD    NAPKINS.      Abundantly  Illustrated  with 
many  Handsome  Styles  and  Diagrams  which  Show  how  It  is  Done. 
Address  all  Orders  to 

Jessitp  Whitehead  &  Co., 

PUBLISHERS  OF  HOTEL  COOK  BOOKS, 

183  NORTH  PEORIA  STREET,  -  -  -  CHICAGO,  ILL 


HDTEL  WDRLD 


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Blank  Hotel  Account  Books 


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:  Hotel  Book-Keeping  : 

All  Kinds  of  Books  For 

City  and  Country  Hotels. 

Published  and  Sold   Exclusively  by 

H.J.  BOHN  &  BRO., 

Publishers  "The  Hotel  World,"  CHICAGO. 


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