COOKING FOR PROFIT.
A NEW AMERICAN COOK BOOK
ADAPTED FOR THE USE OF ALL
WHO SERVE MEALS FOR A PRICE,
BY
JESSUP WHITEHEAD.
Third Edition.
OHZCLA.C3O.
JESSUP WHITEHEAD &. Co., Publishers
1893.
rx
Entered according- to Act of Congress, in the office of the Librarian at Washington,
by JKSSUP WHITEHEAD, 1882. All rights reserved.
In compliance with current copyright
law, U. C. Library Bindery produced
this replacement volume on paper
that meets ANSI Standard 239.48-
1984 to replace the irreparably
deteriorated original
1998
Bros
CONTENTS.
PART FIRST Some Articles for the Show Case. The Lunch Counter. Restaurant
Breakfast, Lunches and Dinners. Hotel Breakfasts, Dinners and Suppers.
Oyster and Fish House Dishes. The Ice Cream Saloon. Fine Bakery Lunch.
Quaker Dairy Lunch. Confectionery Goods, Homemade Beers, etc.
PART SECOND Eight Weeks at a Summer Resort A Diary. Our daily Bill of
Fare and -what it costs. A Party Supper for Forty Cents per Plate. The Art
of Charging Enough. A School Commencement Supper. Question of How
Many Fires. Seven Fires for fifty persons vs. onefire for fifty. The Round* of
Beef for Steak. A Meat Block and Utensils. Bill of Groceries. A Month's
Supply for a Summer Boarding House, -with Prices. A Refrigerator Wanted.
About keeping Provisions; Restaurant Patterns. A Good Hotel Refrigerator.
Cost of Ice to supply it. Shall we have a Bill of Fare? Reasons -why: a Blank
Form. Is Fish Cheaper than Meat? Trouble with the Coffee. How to Scrub
the Kitchen. Trouble with Steam Chest and Vegetables. Trouble with the
Oatmeal. Building a House with Bread Crusts. Puddings without Eggs. A
Pastry and Store Room Necessary. A Board on a Barrel. First Bill of Fare.
Trouble with Sour Meats. Trouble with the Ice Cream. The Landlord's Birth-
day Supper. Showing how rich and fancy Cakes were made and iced and orna-
mented without using Eggs. The Landlady's Birthday Supper. Trouble in
Planning Dinners. Trouble with Captain Johnson. Trouble in Serving Meals.
Trouble with the Manager. Breakfasts and Suppers for Six Cents per Plate.
Hotel Dinners for Ten Cents per Plate. Hotel Dinners for Seventeen Cents per
Plate. Supper for Forty for Eight Cents per Plate. Breakfast for Forty for
Nine Cents per Plate. An Expensive Wedding Breakfast, for the Colonel and
the Banker's Daughter. Four Thousand Meals. Review. Groceries for 4,000.
Meat, Fish and Poultry for 4,000. Flour, Sugar and Coffee for 4,000. Butter
and Eggs for 4,000. Potatoes, Fresh Vegetables and Fruits for 4,000. Canned
Fruits and Vegetables for 4,000. Milk and Cream for 4,000. Total Cost of
Provisions for 4,000. How to Save Twenty Dollars per Week. How Much we
Eat, How Much we Drink. How Much to Serve. Work and Wages. Laundry
Work. Fuel, Light and Ice. Total Cost of Board. How Much Profit? How
Many Cooks to How Many People? Boarding the Employe's. Boarding
Children. Meals for Ten or Fifteen Cents. Country Board at Five Dollars.
If a Bundle of Suppositions. Keeping Clean Side Towels. How Many Fires
Again. A Proposal to Rent for next Season. Conclusion.
THE CONTENTS ALSO INCLUDE:
ONE HUNDRED DIFFERENT BILLS OF FARE Of Actual Meals, all with
New Dishes ; the Amount and the Cost per Head.
ELEVEN HUNDRED RECIPES. All live matter that every Cook needs both
by Weight and by Cup and Spoon Measure.
A DICTIONARY OF COOKERY Comprised in the Explanations of Terms and
General Information contained in the Directions.
ARTISTIC COOKERY. Instructions in Ornamentation, with Illustrations, and
Notes on the London Cookery Exhibition of 1885.
PREFACE.
ihts book is In many respects a continu-
ation of the preceding volumes in the series,
tt fulfills the designs that were intended but
not finished before, more particularly in the
second part which deals with the cost of
keeping up a table. It is not an argument
either for or against high prices, but it
embodies in print for the first time the
methods of close-cutting management
which a million of successful boarding-
house and hotel- keepers are already prac-
tising, in order that another millio'n who
are not successful may learn, if they will,
wherein their competitors have the advant-
age. At the time when the following in-
troduction was written, which was about
four years before the finish, I was just
setting out, while indulging a rambling
propensity, to find out why it was that my
hotel books which were proving admirably
adapted to the use of the ten hotels of a
resort town were voted "too rich for the
blood" of the four hundred boarding-houses ;
also, it was a question how so many of these
houses running at low prices are enabled
to make money as easily as the hotels
which have a much larger income. At the
same time some statistician published a
statement that attracted attention showing
that the vast majority of the people of this
land have to live on an income of less than
fifty cents a day. At the same time also an
English author published a little book,
which, however, I have not seen and did
not need, with the title of "How to live on
sixpence a day,* (twelve cents) which was
presumptive evidence that it could be done.
In quest of information on these points I
went around considerably and found a good
many "Mrs. Tingees" who were not keep-
ing boarding-houses, and I honor them for
the surpassing skill that makes the fifty
rents a day do such wonders ; but the right
rein was not struck until the opportunity
occurred to do both the buying and using
of provisions from the very first meal in a
Summer Boarding House.
In reference to unfinished work I take
the liberty here of saying that the bills of
fare in this book with the quantities and
proportions and relative cost from the con-
tinuation and complete illustration of an
article entitled "The Art of Catering" in
Hotel Meat Cooking. Knowing how much
co cook, how much to charge, ho\r to pre-
vent waste ana an such questions
there are carried out to an answer in thecv
pages. In regard to the use of French name*
for dishes it is necessary that a statement
should be made. A great reform has taken
place in the last ten years in the com-
position of hotel bills of fare, and the subject
matter of these books having been widely
diffused by publication in the hotel news-
papers, has undoubtedly had much to do
with the improvement that is now observ-
able. My own design was, however, to ex-
plain French terms, give their origin and
proper spelling, and to that end I had a
mass of anecdotes, historical mention and
other such material collected to make the
explanations interesting. As a preliminary,
I began exposing the absurdities com-
mitted by ignorant cooks and others trying
to write French, and before this had pro-
ceeded far the newspapers took up and
advocated the idea that French terms should
be abolished altogether. If that was to be
the way the knot of misspelling and mis-
naming dishes was to be cut, there was no
use for my dictionary work and the mate-
rial was thrown away ; I followed the new
path and it proves a plain and sensible one.
At the same time there is an aspect of the
subject which cooks seeking situations
perceive and editors of newspapers may
never think of, and that is that there are
many employers whom the reform has not
reached who will pay a hundred dollars for
a cook who can give his dishes imposing
foreign names more willingly than fifty
dollars to a better cook who can only write
United States. First class hotels which
have all the good things that come to
market avoid French terms. They that
have turkey and lamb, chicken, peas and
asparagus, oysters and turtle and cream
want them shown up in the plainest read-
ing; to cover them up with French names
would be injudicious; but if we have but
the same beef and mutton every day, the
aid that a few ornamental terms can give
is not to be despised. First of all it if
requisite that those who use such terras
should know what they are intended t& in-
dicate and how they should be spelled and
then they can be taken or left according
to the intelligent judgment of those con-
cerned I. W
COOKINQ KOR PROKIT.
INTRODUCTORY.
The pleasing discovery Las recently
been made by the writer, in the pursuit
of a new business, that the interest in the
subject of cookery is universal and only
wants the proper sort of instructors, the
right kind of books and some way ot
making it known that they are the right
kind to set everybody to trying their capa-
bilities in this at once the most useful and
most ornamental art. True, there are
cook books already by the hundreds, but
that is not all that is required, a greater
difficulty than to write and compile a
book on the subject is to get people to
read it, and certain pages or even cer-
tain items that might be veritable jewels
of knowledge at times to the possessors
of the books lie there undiscovered.
We have already tried the conversa-
tional style in writing about cooking, and
have reason to be satisfied with the re-
sults of the experiment as far as it has
gone. We have the satisfaction at least
of finding that what has been written has
been read, and what we have learned of
our subject has in that manner been
made plain to such readers as had need
of the knowledge.
Amongbt all the commendations of om
published hotel book, the "American
Pastry Cook," received from the work-
ers who have tried and know , and some
of whom have even written gratefully for
the help ihey found in it, we have met
no harsher adverse criticism than that of
a fashionable caterer of prominence in his
own city, who said that it was too good ;
that if the author could make the arti-
cles in it, and as good as described, he
ought to be in a certain famous hotel,
"where the best they can get is not good
enough for them."
This though not intended for praise,
certainly was praise of the highest kind,
for the book having the ambitious title
of American Pastry Cook, and the vol-
ume next to come being the American
Cook, ought not to show American cook-
ery and the American table to be in any
repect inferior to that of any other nation
or people whatsoever. That book does,
and the whole work will when comple-
ted contain the cheapest and best articles
as well as the costlier kinds, but cheap-
ness is not put in the foreground.
It is now proposed to run serially in the
HOTEL GAZETTE a book with some original
features, having the cost of each article
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
carefully counted ami all superfluities that
are eet down as optional in other books left
out of this altogether. It is to be a book
that will show how to make money by
cooking; a book suited to the wants of
an immense number who live by board-
ing others at the lowest rate compatible
with respectability of appearances, and
a book that shall lie on the same plane
of everyday life with the people in the
smaller hotels and in private houses that
the writer meets with every day. They'
do not run bills of fare, nor plan nor
reckon up their- meals at from fifty cents
to one dollar each person.
A book of this character must recog-
nize the great fact that there are infinitely
more women engaged or interested in
cooking than men; it is hardly too much
to Bay that every woman is interested,
and they do not need to be told that they
ought to know how to cook, that ia ac-
knowledged in advance, but, "oh dearl
the toil 1 the dry uninteresting study of
the incomprehensible cook books ! "
Said a lady laughingly, the other day
in a parlor full of friends a lady of
wealth and position, the daughter of a
prominent judge, and the wife of a lead-
ing lawyer of that section ' ' When we
were married my husband said he would
give me a fifty-dollar bill if I would learn
tom;ke good bread. We have been
married five years and I have not learned
nt, but I think I can out of this book,
im going to try to secure that green-
back yetl"
Said another one the same day, and
this one was extremely poor, the only
worker in the family, having a sick hus-
band "Now I find I can make things
from my book that sell well in the win-
dows, we will give up trying to keep
boarders, that is killing us both and pay-
ing nothing, almost."
To meet the wants of thousands such,
it is necessary to adopt the household
cup and spoon measures where measures
are wanted. Curious as it may seem to
workmen these people in small hotels
find one of the greatest difficulties of
life in having to weigh and measure,
very few possess scales and they do not
realize generally that absolute success,
and success every time depends upon
the exact proportions of their ingredi-
ents. As it is impossible for us to give
exact proportions without a better stand-
ard than the variable size of the cups
in use we shall have to give a double
set of measures, one by the cup and the
other by pint and pound.
Persons who practice from this book
can find which cup holds half a pint,
which is half a pound of water, and the
standard, and always using the same
can soon learn to measure as many
ounces as they want in it by observing
the difference of the specific gravity of
each article used. Thus:
No. 1 Cup and Spoon Measure.
A CUP means the common size of
white cup generally used in hotels and
restaurants that holds pint of liquid.
WATER. A pint is a pound, a cup is
\ pint, therefore a ctfp of water is 8 oz.
MTT.TT. A cup of milk is J pint, or '8
oz.
EGGS BY MEASURE. A cup of yolks
or whites or of ooth mixed is \ pound,
equal in weight to five large eggs. It
takes 9 whites to fill a cup. It takes
13 yolks to fill a cup. When you have
yolks left over, it is near enough to count
2 yolks equal to one egg, or a cup of
yolks as good as 7 eggs because richer
than whole ones. Water should be
added to them to increase the bulk and
make them capable of being beaten
light.
EGGS BY COUNT. 10 eggs average
a pound : 5 eggs fill a cup. When there
are duck, goose, turkey, bantam or
guinea-fowl eggs to be used, instead of
counting they can be measured after
breaking for cooking purposes by the
above rule i e, a cup of eggs is equal to
5 ordinary hen's eggs.
BUTTER. A cup of cold butter is 7^
ounces, if pressed in quite solid. A cup
of incited butter is J oz lighter. It is
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
usually near enough for cooking to call
a cup J pound. Butter size of an egg is
1 ounces.
LARD. Same as butter.
SUOAB. A level cup of granulated
sugar is 7 ounces 2 cups is 2 ounces
less than a pound. Although sugar by
the grain is heavier than water, and will
sink instantly the air spaces between the
grains make a cupful weigh less than so
much liquid. \ pound of granulated
sugar is a cup rounded up. The pow-
dered sugar that is known as fine gran-
ulated weighs the same, icing sugar or
flour of sugar is lighter, a cup is but 6
ounces. All that can be scooped up in
a cup out of a barrel of any grade weighs
9 ounces. Brown sugar a level cup is
6 ounces. Up in the mountains the cake
receipts people have been used to, fail.
It is all because of the sugar. So much
sugar cannot be used at great elevations
as at sea-level, hence the reason for be-
ing particular about the weights.
MOLASSES. A cup of thick molasses
weighs 12 ounces that is three-quar-
ters of a pound half as much as water
and 5 ounces more than so much sugar.
Thin syrups, however, do not weigh
quite so much.
FLOUE. A level cup of flour is 4
ounces. A cup heaped up with all that
can be dipped with it out of a barrel is
7 ounces, nearly twice as much as the
level. A quart of flour just rounded
over is a pound.
BREAD-CRUMBS. A cup of bread is 4
ounces pressed in rather solid. A
pound of bread is a pressed-in quart.
CORN-MEAL. A cup of corn-meal is 5
ounces, 3 rounded cups are a pound, or
a pound of corn-meal is a little less than
a level quart.
OATMEAL. A level cup of oatmeal is
6 ounces. All that can be dipped up
with a cup weighs 7 ounces nearly \
pound.
COBN STABCH. A level cup of starch
flour or cooking starch is G ounces, the
same as corn-meal. All that can be
heaped in a cup weighs 7 ounces.
FABIKA. The same as starch.
RICE. A level cup weighs 7 ounces
All that can be heaped in a cup weighs
9 ounces.
LIQHT BREAD DOUGH. A rounded
cup is \ pound.
A BASTING-SPOON means the pressed
iron spoon about half as long as one's
arm. The bowl of most of them of dif-
ferent lengths of handle holds the same.
Six basting-spoons of liquid are \ pint or
a cup. It is the most useful measure for
molasses. A full spoon of molasses is 2
ounces. A basting spoon of melted but-
ter or lard not quite full is 1 ounce, 6
spoons brim-full will be \ pound of
butter.
A TABLE-SPOON 14 tunes full is a cup
or pint of water ,'2 tablespoons of mel-
ted butter is 1 ounce. It is near enough
to count a tablespoonful \ ounce of any
fluid except molasses of which a table-
spoon may be made to take, up an ounce.
A heaping tablespoon of sugar is 1 ounce,
6 or 7 wiU fill a cup. A heaping table-
spoon of starch is 1 ounce, 4 will fill a
cup starch can be heaped so much
higher than sugar. A moderately heaped
tablespoon of flour is 1 ounce, three fully
heaped will fill a cup 4 ounces.
Of eggs broken in a cup, 3 tablespoons
are equal to 1 egg.
A teaspoon is \ a table spoon. When
baking powder, cream tartar, sugar,
starch and the like is to be measured a
rounded teaspoon is meant. It is near
enough in most cases to count a tea-
spoonful ^ ounce.
In the absence of such a table as the
foregoing ready prepared we have found
such questions the most perplexing of
any that have been given us to an-
swer. It looks now as if any of those
who are opposed to scales and weights,
might so well acquaint themselves with
the capacities of one cup as to become
accurate cooks, and safe from the dis-
couraging effects of culinary failures.
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES
SOME ARTICLES FOR THE SHOW
CASE.
2 Angel Food or White Sponge Cake
WHITEST AND FINEST CAKE MADE.
5 whites of eggs or six if small.
5 ounces fine granulated sugar J- cup
ounces flour J cup large.
1 rounded teaspoon cream tartar.
1 teaspoon vanilla or lemon extract.
Mix the cream tartar in tne flour by
sifting them together. Whip the whites
firm, put in the sugar and beat a few
seconds, add the flavoring, then stir in
the flour lightly without beating. As
soon as mixed put the cake in the oven.
It needs careful baking like a meringue,
in a slack oven and should stay in from
20 to 30 minutes. A small, deep, smooth
mold is the best and should not be
greased. When the cake is done turn
it upside down and leave it to get cold
in the mold before trying to take it out.
When you have pure cream tartar
from a drug store use only half as much
as of the common lest the cake taste
of it.
3 Plain Glaze or Icing for the Above.
4 tablespoons powdered sugar.
1 white of an egg.
Put the tmgar in a cup and mix it with
the white ot egg. As soon as the sugar
is fairly wetted it is ready. It dries
pearl white; takes but a minute to make.
Spread it all over the bottom and sides
of ''angelfood."
COST of material 15c., size 1 quart;
weight 15 oz.
The rule for the foregoing in large
quantities is an ounce of sugar to each
ounce of white of eggs and half as much
flour. Those who deal in it largely say
it is, or at least was before they got it
into a regular routine, the most trouble-
some cake they made, the tendency be-
ing always to fall in the middle. They
now use plain deep molds having centre
tubes of unusually large size. There is-
no difficulty with small cakes. But the
whites must be whiipped quite dry in a
cold place.
4 Lady-Fingers.
7 ounces granulated sugar 1 cup.
4 eggs.
3 tablespoons water.
6 ounces flour 1 heaping cup.
1 ounce sugar to dredge.
Separate the eggs, the whites in a
bowl, the yolks in the mixing pan. Put
the sugar to the yolks and stir up, then
add the water and beat with a bunch of
wire 10 minutes. Have the flour ready.
Whip the whites with the wire egg
whisk till they are firm enough to bear
up an egg. Mix the flour in the yolks
and stir in the white of eggs last.
Put the batter into a large paper
comet with the point clipped off, or into
a lady-finger sack and tube, and press
out finger lengths in regular order on a
sheet of manilla paper. When the sheet
is full dredge fine sugar over, catch up
two corners of the sheet and shake off
the surplus, and lay it on a baking-pan.
Bake a light yellow-brown in about 6
minutes. Take off by wetting the paper
under side and stick the two cakes to-
gether while they are still moist.
COST of material 14c. ; number of
cakes 6 dozen pairs, weight 18 oz.
5 Star Kisses.
8 ounces fine granulated sugar round-
ed cup.
4 whites of eggs.
1 teaspoon flavoring.
Whip the whites with a bunch of wire,
n a cold place until they are firm enough
to bear up an egg, add the sugar and
Savor and beat a few seconds longer.
Put the meringue paste thus made into
a sack and star-pointed tube or else into
a stiff paper cornet having the point cut
COOKING FOE PROFIT.
like saw teeth and press ont portions size
of walnuts ou to pans slightly greased
and then wiped clean. Bake in a very
slack oven about 10 minutes or till the
kisses are of a light fawn color and
swelled partially hollow. They slip off
easily whea cold.
COST of material lOc; number of cakes
5 doz. , or according to size.
6 Fairy Gingerbread, or Ginger
Wafers.
This appears to have originated in
Boston where it is held in high favor and
it is a sort of social duty to know how to
make it. No eggs needed .
1 cup butter 7 oz.
"2 cups light brown sugai 13 oz.
1 cup milk J pint.
4 cups flour 1 pound.
1 teaspoon ground ginger.
Warm the butter and sugar slightly
and rub them together to a cream. Add
the milk, ginger and flour. It makes
a paste like very thick cream. Spread a
thin coating of butter on the baking pans,
let it get quite cold and set, then spread
the paste on it no thicker than a visiting
card, barely covering the pan from sight.
Bake in a slack oven, and when done
cut the sheets immediately into the shape
and size of common cards. This is also
known as euchre gingerbread. Is served
in packs and eaten between games.
Do it up in paper packages to prevent
breakage, with one sheet outside.
COST of material 23c; weight 2J
pounds; cakes innumerable.
7 Jelly Roll.
1 cup sugar 7 ounces.
4 eggs.
1 cup water small.
2 cups flour 9 ounces.
1 large teaspoon baking powder.
cup fruit jelly or thin marmalade.
Separate the eggs, the whites in a
good-sized bowl, the yolks in the mixing
|>an. Put the sugar to the yolks, stir
up, then add the water and beat up till
they are light and thick. Mix the pow-
der in the flour, whip the whites to a
very firm froth. When they are ready
stir the flour into the yolk mixture and
mix in the -whipped whites last.
Cut sheets of blank paper the size of
your baking pans, spread the batter on
them, without previous greasing, as thin
as can be, and bake in a quick oven
about 6 minutes. Brush over the un-
der side of the paper with water, the
cake laid flat on the table, and take it
off. Spread the cake with thin jelly
and roll up.
It makes it rounder and smoother to
roll it in a fresh sheet of paper and keep
it so until wanted, care being taken that
the cake is sufficiently baked not to
stick. It shoul I be observed that this
and number 4 can both be used for the
same purposes, this is the cheaper.'
COST of material 19 or 20c. ; weight
over r| pounds; light and large.
8 Cocoanut Gems, Cakes or Caramels.
These very quickly and easily made
cream candy drops we learned to consid-
er worth having in our show case through
observing how rapidly they sold at two
rival fruit and confectionary stands in a
western city. They were freshly stacked
up hi sight close to the sidewalk every
morning, about a bushel in each place as
it seemed, and were all or nearly all sold
by night. They may be found in most
confectionaries under different names.
1 pound granulated sugar 2 cups.
8 ounces grated cocoanut 2 cups.
J cup of water.
Set the sugar and water over the fire
in a small, bright kettle and boil about
five minntes, or till the syrup bubbles up
and ropes from the spoon, and do not
stir it. Then put in the cocoannt, stir
to mix, and begin at once and drop the
candy by tablespoonfuls on a buttered
baking pan. The dry dessicated cocoa-
nut is the easier kind to work with.
With the moist, fresh graten more time
6
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
should be given for the sugar to boil to
the candy point.
Leave a little in the kettle and color
it pink with a few drops of cochineal,
adding water if necessary . Drop a spot
of the pink on each white cake .
COST of material 20 or 22c. Number
according to size. They sell at 2Jc each.
9 Pound Fruit Cake.
Yellow but spotted with fruit.
The staple every day sort of plum
cake. The fruit does not sink to the
bottom in this mixture.
14: ounces sugar 2 cups .
14 ounces butter 2 cups.
11 eggs.
18 ounces flour 4 rounded cups.
Mix the above the same as pound
cake, then add to it,
1 pound raisins.
1 pound currants.
8 ounces citron.
1 tea spoonful baking powder.
Use seedless raisins. Nothing is good
made full of raisin seeds. Mix the fruit
together and dust it with flour before
stirring it into the batter. The cakei
require *rom 1 to 1J hours to bake.
2 teaspoonfuls of mixed ground spices,
cinnamon, mace, and alspice, can be
added to the above if so desired. It
changes the appearance of the cake,
however, and renders it perhaps less
saleable. But either way it is an excel-
lent cake .
COST of material sugar 10, butter
20, eggs 18, flour and powder 4, raisins
20, currants 10, citron 15 97c. ; weight
over six pounds, size a five pint cake
mold full.
Preserving Corn with Salt
Cut green corn off the cob and pack
it in jars in layers with salt enough
between each layer to form a brine
that will cover the corn. Place a
plate or board on top of the corn,
cover the jar and keep in a cool
place.
When to be used soak the required
quantity in fresh water for 24 hours,
changing the water once or twice,
then boil and season with milk and
butter, or make into corn pudding, or
fritters.
The above method used to be uni-
versally followed before canning, be-
came so common. The corn is not so
well-flavored, yet serves a purpose in
some places.
Kossuth Cakes.
Make sponge drops large and thick,
hollow out the bottoms, fill the hollow
with whipped cream sweetened and
flavored, and place two together. Dip
them in melted sweet chocolate or
chocolate icing and place on an oiled
dish to dry. They are a Baltimore
specialty, are generally made to order,
only for parties; the price about a
dollar a dozen.
Cheese Fondue, a la Savarin.
It is one form of cheese omelet.
Take equal weights of cheese and eggs
and one fourth as much butter that
would be 3 eggs, 4 ounces cheese,
butter size of a guinea egg. Grate
the cheese, mix the butter with it in a
pan over the fire, break in the eggs,
season with pepper, scramble all to-
gether same as scrambled eggs, but
not' too hard, as the cheese becomes
tough and ropy if cooked too much.
Cheese Ramequins.
Roll out pie paste, cover it with
grated cheese, fold up and roll out
twice more. Cutout like thin biscuits,
wash over with egg and bake. For
luncheons and teas.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
THE LUNCH COUNTER.
10 Alamode Beef Soup.
There is a well established favorite soup
sold in the large cities under this name;
whether any relation to beef-a-la-mode
or not makes no difference whatever. It
is especially adapted for a lunch, or to
be made a meal of, being simply made
thick and of course nutritious with beef
boiled to shreds in it.
To make 12 quarts soup take,
5 gallons water.
5 pounds soup beef.
Shanks and bones, all the water will
cover.
An onion, a carrot, a turnip.
12 cloves, 1 bayleaf.
1 tablespoon salt.
1 tea spoonful black pepper.
Break up the shanks and bones, wash
off in cold water, put them into the boil-
er with the meat not touching the bot-
tom, boil gently for 6 hours, then take
out the piece of beef. Add to the stock
the cloves and bayleaf and continue
boiling until the water is reduced to
three gallons, and the remaining meat is
well dissolved, which may be three or
four hours longer. Strain off the stock
through a gravy strainer, skim free from
fat, set it on the fire again in the soup
pot; cut the vegetables or chop them aiid
throw them in, and mince the piece of
beef without any fat and add that like-
wise. Boil -J hour, thicken slightly with
flour-and-water, season with the salt and
pepper and skim off the particles of fat
that rise from tHe minced beef. It is
thick with meat and minced vegeta-
bles.
It is not much detriment to such a
soup to have the fat remaining in it,
except the crumbs of fat meat that rise
from the mince and spoil its smooth ap-
pearance, but it is needed for other uses
in the kicchan.
To make soup every day as easily as
possible there must be a regular time
for setting on the first boiler the stock
boiler and a routine something like this :
lu the morning when preparing break-
fast and dinner, get the soup pieces of
meat together. After dinner as soon as
possible set the boiler full of these pieces
and the complement of water on the
range and let it slowly simmer as long
as there is a fire at night. Then the
last thing at night, if warm weather,
strain off the stock and set in a cool
place till morning. But if cold weather
and the stock cannot spoil in the boiler
during the night it will be better to leave
it and draw it off quite clear before the
morning fire is started undei it.
Good soup can be made by setting the
prepared boiler on early in the morning
and drawing off the stock at about 11
o'clock, but it is not the best way for
obvious reasons.
COST of material rough baef at 5,
bones at 2, vegetables etc, 5, 12c per
pound gall.
11 Cold Baked Ham.
Scrape and carefully shave off the
outside of a ham and saw off the rank
end of the knuckle bone. It is an im-
provement to soak the ham in water 12
hours before cooking.
Boil it in the salt meat boiler from 2J
to 3J hours, according to size. Take
out, remove the rind, trim a little and
bake it brown and shining about
hour.
12 Roast Ham Bread-crumbed.
Boil and trim the ham as heretofore
directed. Mix 3 cupfuls of the sifted
crumbs of dried and crushed bread with
1 cupful of grated cheese. Brown the
ham in the oven only very slightly,
take it out and press upon it all the
bread crumb mixture that can be made
to stick. Put back in the pan and
brown it in the oven carefully all over
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
alike, basting the dry places with a little
clear fat from the pan. The cheese mixed
with the crumbs acts as a cement for
the coating, gives a rich color and a good
flavor. A ham done this way is good
either for hot or cold.
COST A 16 pound ham at 12Jc
$2,00. Loss by shrinkage, rind, bone,
waste 6 pounds, 10 pounds nett salea-
ble ham for $2,00 costs 20c per pound.
1 pound of ham makes from 4 to 8 plates,
or 12 sandwiches.
13 Fried Oysters.
1 dozen oysters.
1 cup cracker-meal or crumbs.
J cup milk batter.
Lard to fry.
Lemon to garnish.
Spread the oysters on a clean napkin
and wipe them dry.
Mix in a small bowl 2 rounded table-
spoons flour with 6 tablespoons milk,
gradually free from lumps and like
cream. Be particular to measure; and
use milk because it takes on a finer color
in frying than if water is used . Dip the
oysters into the batter then into the
cracker-meal or bread crumba and let
them lie well covered for a while. If eo
preferred double bread them by dipping
the second time in the batter and then
in the cracker-meal again.
Fry in hot lard about 3 or 4 minutes
or until brown. Drain in a strainer,
serve heaped in a hot dish and quarters
of lemon at each end.
14 Fried Oysters in Haste.
Where there is not time to dry the
oysters take
6 tablespoons cracker- meal.
2 large t'ablespoons flour.
Some oyster liquor in a small pan.
Mix the cracker-meal and flour thor-
oughly together dry. Dip the oysters
out of their own liquor into the meal, out
of the meal into the extra pan of oyster
liquor and out of that into the meal again.
Do not rub the oysters as the bread-
ing will not stick a second time, but press
them in singly. Fry brown in 3 or 4
minutes, garnish with parsley and lemon.
COST of material with bulk oysters
at 60c per quart of 4 doz. oysters 15,
breading 1, lemon 1, 17c. Lard to fry,
2 oz for each dozen oysters either con-
sumed or damaged 2c total 19c.
15 Oyster Fritters.
Mix one-fourth flour with three-fourths
cracker meal dry, and have some oyster
liquor or milk or both mixed in a pan.
Put in a good pinch of salt. Dip the
oysters out of their own liquor into tho
mixed meal, out of that into the oyster
liquor then into the meal again, and do
so twice more, giving the oysters 4
coats. Fry in hot lard crisp and brown
in 5 minutes. Serve in circular order in
a dish and garnish. These keep the
perfect shape of the oyster and the oys-
ter flavor in the crust much better than
if made by dipping into thick fritter
batter.
COST the same as fried oysters.
16 Oysters Sauteed in Butter.
Mix one-fourth flour with three-fourths
cracker meal (or sifted crumbs of dried
bread} dry. Dip the oysters out of their
own liquor into the meal, press clown
without rubbing and give them a good
coating.
Put 1 ounce of butter into a frying-
pan and melt it. Lay one dozen oysters
in close enough to stick together by the
edges. Fry carefully as butter easily
burns, until the under side is nicely
browned, then lay a plate upside down
upon them, turn over and slide them
back into the pan again and brown the
other side. Serve them still caked to-
gether on a hot plate.
COST of material oysters 15, bread-
ing and lemon 1, butter 2, 18c per doz.
17 Oyster Pies Individual..
These are covered pies of the usual
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
well-known form containing from 12 to
18 email oysters. They are served in a
deep plate with a soup ladleful of oyster-
stew liquor poured around. The pies
are about the size of a large saucer.
To make 10 such pies take for the
crust,
20 ounces flour 5 cups.
8 ounces lard or suet 1 rounded cup.
1 cup water.
1 teaspoon salr.
Rub the lard into the flour dry, pour
the water into the middle and stir up to
soft dough. Spread the flour that re-
mains un wetted on the table, pat the
dough smooth in it, roll it out 2 or 3
times and fold it up and it is ready for
use. Cut pieces, roll out very thin and
cover 10 pie pans.
Then put into each 18 small oysters
and the liquor belonging. Dredge in a
little salt and pepper and a little dust of
flour rubbed through a seive with the
fingers. Put a top crust on and cut off
the surplus by pressing the hands against
the edge of the pie pan all around. Bake
about 10 minutes, serve hot as above
stated.
COST of material flour 3, lard 7, cost
of crust lOc. With bulk small oysters
at 50c per quart of 15 dozen oysters
50c. 3 pints milk and oyster liquor sea-
Fonod 12c total 10 pies 72c say, 7c
each.
18 Oyster Pot-Pie.
Sells well in the restaurant.
2 quarts small oysters.
1 ounce butter.
1 cup milk.
Salt aud pepper.
Crust made of
1 pound flour 4 cups.
3 teaspoons baking powder.
1 cup water.
Drain the oysters pretty well from
their liquor and put them into a 3-quart
bright milk pan. Mix the crust like
making biscuit, but without shortening,
and have it as soft as possible to be han-
dled. Pat it out flat with the hands
and cover the oysters. Bake 15 min-
utes and then introduce at one side a
seasoning of salt and pepper ateaspoon-
ful of each a small piece of butter, a
cup of milk and a bastingspoon of flour-
and-water thickening. Stir about, re-
place the piece of dough that was raised
up and bake a short time longer. The
crust should be as light as a sponge and
lightly browned, but the oysters not
cooked hard.
COST of material- with bulk small
oysters at $180 gall. oysters 90, butter
2, milk 2, flour 3, powder 2. seasonings
1, $1,00. Contains about 16 doz oys-
ters, or according to grade, and crust to
correspond t
19 Chow-ChowDomestic.
12 larj^e green tomatoes.
12 cucumbers.
12 onions.
1 head cabbage.
There should be about twice as much
cabbage when all are chopped as of any
one of the others.
Chop them small, mix, sprinkle with
salt and let stand over night.
Then drain off and cover with weak
vinegar and let stand 2 days. Drain
aain and add to it
3 quarts cider vinegar.
1 cup grated horseradish.
4 ounces white mustard seed.
J ounce celery seed.
1^ ounces ground cinnamon.
2 tablespoons turmeric.
4 tablespoons dry mustard.
J pound sugar.
4 green peppers minced.
When well mixed set it on the range
in a bright kettle and boil up. When
cold it is ready for use. The above
makes something over 2 gallons. It is
a fine relish for the lunch table. Keep
in glass jars.
COST too variable for estimate. To
people with gardens very little. Prob-
able average 50c per gall.
10
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
20 Plain Pie Paste.
1 level cup lard 7 ounces.
4 level cups flour 1 pound.
1 teaspoon salt.
Water to mix J cup.
Drop the lard into the flour and rub
them together until well mixed. Pour a
small cup of cold water in the middle und
stir around gradually. Take the paste
out while quite soft, pat out smooth on
the table with plenty of flour under; roll
it out, fold up in three roil, out and fold
up twice more, and it is ready for use.
The rolling and folding makes the paste
flaky and better than it otherwise would
be, although this is not intended to be
re>l puff paste.
21 Suet Pie Paste.
2 pressed in cups minced suet.
4 cups flour.
1 teaspoon salt.
Warm water to mix.
Make the suet as fine as possible by
first shaving in thin slices and then minc-
ing very small with a little flour mixed
in while mincing, to prevent sticking to
the knife. Rub the suet into the dry
flour, add salt, mix up gradually from
the middle with water slightly warm.
Take the dough out of the pan and roll
out to a sheet on the table, fold over in
three and roll out twice more. Pie paste
made as above, then allowed to become
very cold and rolled twice again is al-
most as good as puff paste in flakiness.
The time may be shortened by having
the suet, pretty well chopped, in a warm
room to poften, then pounding it smooth,
throwing it into the flour and mixing up
and rolling out without stopping to rub
it in the flour first, which is a tedious
operation.
COST of material average for both
suet and lard 12c; makes 3 or 4 covered
pies large enough to quarter, if rolled
thin.
22 The Covered Lemon Pie of the
Great Bakeries.
NO EGGS NEEDED.
8 ounces sugar 1 large cup.
3 ounces flour 1 small cup.
1 lemon.
1 pint water 2 cups.
Grate rind of lemon into a small sauce-
pan, using a tin grater and scraping off
with a fork what adheres. Squeeze in
the juice, scrape out the pulp, chop it,
put in the water and boil. Mix the su-
gar and flour together dry and stir them
into the boiling liquor. When half thick-
ened take it off and let finish in the pies.
The above makes two large pies or
three small. It is necessary to be par-
ticular to get the right amount of flour.
The mixture is pale yellow from the rind
and sugar.
Put top crust as well as bottom on
these pies.
COST of material lOc pies each 8 or
9 cents. Cut in 4.
There are some immense bakeries in
the city of Chicago and one of them is
peculiar in that it turns out nothing
but pies. It has grown up to its pres-
ent dimensions from being a mere corner
pie shop, and even yet one of the firm,
the working partner, bakes all the pica
himself, indeed he says that so close is
the margin of profit in the business that
when once he was laid up by a spell of
sickness the loss during his absence
amounted to about three hundred dol-
lars per week. Hotel keepers and oth-
ers who have to hire inefficient help and
who see things burnt up and wasted
will understand how that might be; and
then there is the important matter of
buying cheaply and well.
The people of the present time are ac-
tuated by all sorts of queer desires and
ambitions. Some want to go around
the world in eighty days, some want to
walk a thousand miles in so many
hours, and the grand goal in view that
COOKING FOB PROFIT.
11
the owners of this great pie factory havi
set themselves the task of reaching o
die in the attempt is the production of a
million pies in a year. Two years ago th<
numoer turned out in the course o:
twelve months had reached to eigh
hundred and thirty thousand, and it die
seem as though the remaining trifle o
one hundred and seventy thousand pies
might be compassed in the succeeding
year, making it a round million in twelv<
months, however it was not to be
Whether somebody had a corner on
pumpkins that year, or whether apples
were high through increased shipments
to Europe where pies cannot go, or
whether pies had begun to go out o
fashion, or strong rivalry with this firm
had sprung up so it was that the sales
actually fell twenty-five thousand pies
short of the greatest pie year. Still th
prospect is good for the firm to achieve
the object of their ambition. The pop-
ulation of the city is still increasing and
no new or alarming accusations against
pie have been started of late. This es-
tablishment possesses six carrying vans,
five of which are of the capacity of om-
nibasses and are as finely painted. They
cost five hundred dollars each, have
horses to match and each van takes out
five hundred pies at every trip. The
customers are lunch counter keepers and
restaurants, hotels and boarding houses,
bakeries, groceries and private houses,
all over the city. They run five huge
rotary ovens of which the doors are nev-
er closed, but the pies put in at the front
pass around the interior on the revolving
floor and come to the door again done
and ready to taken out. Of course
their pies are good or they could never
hope to sell a million a year, and the
sorts they make are quite numerous
in variety. Still they are cheap.
23 Lemon Cream Pie.
Cover the pie pans with a single crust
but with a thicker edge than common,
and bake it slack done. Take out and
fill with lemon cream, cover with me-
ringue and bake again but only until
the meringue or frosting has a light col-
or on top.
The lemon cream filling.
2 cups milk 1 pint.
J cup sugar 4 ounces.
J cup flour 2 ounces.
I tablepoon butter 1 ounce.
Few drops oil lemon, or extract or
grated rind.
Put a spoonful of sugar in the milk
and set on to boil. The sugar prevents
the milk from burning on the bottom.
Mix the flour and rest of sugar very
thoroughly together dry, drop them into
boiling milk and stir rapidly with the
wire egg beater. Throw in the butter.
Let cook at the back of the range 10 min-
utes. Flavor before spreading in the
pie crusts.
For the frosting take whites of eggs,
3 tablespoons sugar, whip the whites-
quite firm, beat in the sugar a few mo-
ments, spread over the pies and dry
bake in a slsack oven.
At the great bakeries mentioned the
frosting is placed around in a pat-
tern with a star kiss tube, as named at.
No. 5.
Save the yolks of eggs to make cus-
tard pies.
COST of material crust for 2 pica
6c; filling and frosting 13c, 19c cut
each in 4.
24 Pumpkin or Squash Pie.
6 cups cooked pumpkin or squash,
or 3 pints or pounds, or a can.
1 cup light brown sugar 7 ounces.
1 cup flour 4 ounces.
1 cup milk pint.
1 teaspoon ground ginger J ounce.
J teaspoon salt.
Have the pumpkin drained dry after
cooking, and mashed smooth. Mix in
he sugar, ginger and pinch of salt.
ix the flour with the milk in a bowl
gradually, perfectly free from lumps,
,nd stir that well into the pumpkin.
Cover 3 large pie pans with thin.
12
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
crusts of short paste made of a small cup
of lard rubbed into 4 cups of flour and
mixed up with water and a little salt and
rolled. Fill them to the brim with the
pumpkin, bake hour in a slack oven.
Eat cold.
COST of material 4 Ibs raw pump-
kin or squash at 2c, one-third waste-
pumpkin 9, sugar 5, flour 1, milk 2,
ginger 1; 18c for filling. Crust average
3c each, total each pie 9c. Large din-
ner plate size, full. Cut in 4. A3
Ib. can pumpkin or squash costs 20e by
the dozen.
25 Apple Pie.
7 or 8 average apples 2 pounds.
Short paste for 2 covered pies.
Buy sweet, ripe apples that need no
sugar, have a care, however that they are
of a good cooking sort. Pare and slice
them thinly off the cores.
Spread thin bottom crusts on 2 large
pie paus, put iu the sliced apples raw,
cover with a top crust, bake ^ hour in
a slack oven.
A grating of nutmeg can be added if
desired to improve the flavor, and with
some kinds of apoles it is an advantage
to put in a spoonful or tv;o of water and
dredge a little flour on top of the fruit
before covering.
When puting on tlr top crust the
quickest and best way instead of cutting
around is to press both hands against
the edge of the pie pan, turning it around
on the table and so cutting off the paste.
It closes the edges together and takes
off all the surplus.
COST of material apples 6, double
crusts for 2 pies 8; 14c. Large dinner
plate size, full. Cut each in 4.
Sound apples lose one-third their
weight by paring and coring, unsound
apples, of course. are an indefinite proposi-
tion. A bushel of apples is 48 Ibs; it
contains from 150 to 200 apples, accord -
-ing to size, average, say 175. A bushel
of apples makes 48 pies, dinner plate
size.
26 Mince Pie No 1.
Cover large pie pans with a bottom
crust of plain pie paste and put into each
a heaped pint of the following mince-
meat. Cover with a top crust and bake
hour. Keep warm until served.
COST of material crust each 4,mince-
meat 6, lOc. Large size cut in 4.
27 Mincemeat No. 1
8 cups minced beef 2 pounds.
12 cups minced suet 3 pounds.
12 cups currants 4 pounds.
12 cups chopped apples 3 pounds.
2 heaped cups raisins 1 pound.
2 heaped cups brown sugar 1 pound.
2 heaped tablespoons mixed ground
spices cinnamon, alspice and cloves.
4 cups orange and lemon rinds boiled
tender and chopped 1J pounds.
2 cups common bran ly 1 pint.
14 cups cider 3 J quarts.
Season tbe chopped meat and suet
with salt and black pepper, then mix all
and keep in a jar or keg a week or two
or longer, before using.
COST of material Meat loses one-third
in boiling, buy 3 Ibs beef, heart or tongue
at average 8c., beef 24, suet 24, cur-
rants 40, apples 9, raisins 20, sugar 10,
gpice 10, orange peel 8, brandy 50, ci-
der 45; $2,40c. Amount3 galls., 80c
gall. Heaping J pint to each large pie
makes 40 at cost of 6c each.
29 Mince Pie No. 2.
Cover pie pans with plain pie paste
rolled very thin and put into each pie a
full large cup of the following mince-
meat. Cover with a thin top crust and
bake in a slack oven about 20 minutes.
COST of material crust for each pie
3J, filling 3; 7ceach. Large size, full.
Cut in 4.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
13
29 Mincemeat No 2.
1 ox heart boiled tender and nainced.
6 cups minced suet 1 pounds.
4 cups black molasses 1 quart.
4 heaped cups brown sugar 2 pounds.
2 heaped cups raisins 1 pound.
3 heaped caps currants 1 pound.
3 heaped tablespoons ground spices
alspk-e, cinnamon and cloves mixed.
1 heaped tablespoon black pepper.
2 cups vinegar 1 pint.
4 cups orange and lemon peel boiled
tender and minced.
6 heaped cups raw dried apples 1
pounds.
6 pressed-in cups bread crumbs 1J
pounds.
16 cups water 4 quarts.
Boil the dried apples in 2 quarts of
the water and before they become too
soft take them out and chop them and
put them with the liquor in a large jar.
Pour 2 quarts water over the bread and
add that, then all the othar ingredients
as named. Season the meat and suet
with salt. It is ready for present use.
COST of material $1,40. Amount 3
galls. ; 47c gall. Makes 40 pies, largo
sree.
Cheese Pudding.
Line a small shallow dish with good
pastry, beat up two eggs, add half a
pound of grated cheese, one quarter
ounze of butter, and a seasoning of
pepper and salt; mix well, and pour
into the lined dish.
Cheese Straws.
Take equal portions of flour, grated
cheese, and butter -one quarter or
half a pound of each, according to the
number of " straws " required. Add
a slight seasoning of salt and pepper;
make the whole into a paste, roll out,
cut into strips or straws, and bake in
a quick oven.
Cheese Pounded.
Cut up one pound of cheese that
has become too dry for the table, into
sirall pieces ; add three ounzes of
butter and a teaspoonful of made
mustard. Put in a mortar and pound
it until smooth ; press it into glass or
earthen pots such as are used for
potted meats. Use it by spreading
oik thin bread and butter or toast.
Cheese Souffle.
Mix a quarter of a pint of milk
with about a dessert-spoonful of flour
and a pinch of salt. Put in a sauce-
pan, and stir over the fire until it
thickens. Add one quarter pound of
cheese, fine grated, and the yolks of
two eggs. Beat all together, and
then, having beaten the whites of the
eggs into a stiff froth, add them to
the rest, and bake in a quick oven.
Cheese Scallops.
Soak three ounzes of breadcrumbs
in some milk, add two beaten eggs,
one ounze of butter, one quarter
pound of grated cheese, and pepper
and salt. Mix thoroughly, pour into
scallop shells, and cover with bread-
crumbs. Bake until brown.
u
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
RESTAURANT BREAKFAST.
30 Coffee.
More coffee is consumed in this coun-
try than in any other under the sun; its
value is understood, its power as a stim-
ulant to bodily and mental activity is
appreciated and no other article of gen-
eral consumption can be named of which
the public are so careful to guard against
adulteration as this. Packages of ready-
ground articles are generally shunned;
the merchants must keep the sacks of
coffee, ready browned but of different
grades in sight and a mill for it to be
ground in before the buyer's eyes, and
these straightforward methods are the
outgrowth of more than mere personal
solicitudes or defences against the small
frauds of imitation or substitution which
in the case of innumerable other articles
are submitted to with careless indiffer-
ence, they result from the feeling that
the active business of the community
cannot be carried on in the fast way to
which the New World cities have be-
come habituated without the stimulating
aid of good coffee, that is to say of gen-
uine coffee. For the potency of the ber-
ry to refresh and impel to new exertion
is not to any considerable degree depen-
dent upon tbe method of preparing it for
the table. Coffee causes wakefulness
when eaten raw, or drawn by long steep-
ing in cold water, its effects are rather
deadened than increased when it is
made into the pleasant breakfast bever-
nge with cream and sugar. Its energy
is most expansive in the out door camp
where, boiled in a camp kettle it is
drunk by the pint orquart without milk
and the drowsy hunters or travelers
spring up and start off singing.
There are the best of reasons therefore
why no great success should be expecterl
for any eating house that depends npon
boarders who are free to change, until
it is made a special matter of care first,
to provide genuine coffee ofgood qaulity,
and second, to have it made strong,
clear, fresh and furnished with cream,
pleasant to the sight, to the sense of
cleanliness .and purity and to the taste.
Some drink coffee for the sake of the
coffee, some, Rip Van Winkle's, for the
cream and sugar, but the latter, if not
already past work when they begin,
come over at last to the ranks of the ac-
tive multitude.
The stimulation afforded by the cof-
fee berry having become an absolute
necessity it is a question only whether
the coffee made is to be of such a sort
that it must be gu'ped down like a medi-
cine and a second draught avoided if
possible, or whether sipped with the ut-
most enjoyment of both its flavor and
fragrance, and this is a matter that rests
mostly with the maker who in turn is
dependent for success upon the vessel
that keeps it for him after it is made,
for an improper urn will spoil the best
coffee ever concocted in the course of an
hour or two. The most important im-
provement in coffee urns is that of fitting
the inside with a stone jar which holds
the coffee and keeps it free from metallic
taint. It is practically impossible to
make coffee to order as wanted, neither
can coffee bought ofgood quality and made
strong be thrown away when left over
from a meal, but if kept in a metal pot
or urn turns black and bitter, discolors
milk and cream like a dye and has none
of the fine aroma it had when first made.
The substitution of a bright new tin
vessel for the old and cankerous one will
remedy the matter for a short time but
rust spots form inside the new one with-
in a week and the coffee gradually be-
comes as bad as before. If the makers
of stoneware or some harmless unglazed
pottery would put upon the market coffee
urns with faucets, and an inner rim to
hold the hoop of a muslin filtering bag a
remedy would be furnished for much bad
coffee within the reach of those who can-
not buy the costly plated urns with the
stone- ware linings. When a good way
of keeping the coffee so that it will not
change to ink between one meal and the
next has been adopted it will become
worth while to lay a stress upon the se-
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
15
lection of the best kinds. Good Rio cof-
fee is the most servicable, the cheapest,
and in nine cases out of ten is good
enough if well made, but those who can
distinguish between the flavors will pre-
fer Java, and a mixture of Java and Rio
is generally satisfactory. The fancy
kinds such as Mocha, African, or what-
ever new names may be given are gene-
rally peculiar only in being the produce
of young trees which after awhile bear
the same old sort of coffee as other plan-
tations. It is paid that there is no more
of what used to be known as Mocha cof-
fee; nothing remains but a name.
31 To Make Coffee Family.
1 heaping cup ground coffee 4
ounces.
8 cups watei 2 quarts.
The most people who do cooking for
profit cannot afford to make coffee with-
out boiling, the full strength is not ex-
tracted until the boiling point is reached
and to make it otherwise more coffee
is required or less water. However, it
need not keep on boiling after the first
heat.
Have the coffee ground coarse like
oatmeal, put it on in cold water and let
come to a boil, then immediately remove
it to the stove hearth or some place to
keep hot without boiling and a few min-
utes before it is to be poured off add \
cup of cold water. Coffee made this
way half an hour before the meal will
pour off quite clear without anything
added to clearify it.
32 French Coffee.
Put a large cup of coarsely ground cof-
fee shaken in and heaped up (4 ounces)
into the perforated top of a coffee pot a.nd
pour over it 6 cups of boiling water.
Kepp the pot at boiling heat without ac-
tual boiling. When the water has run
through, pour it off into another vessel and
pour it through again and then once or
twice more. Whatever sediment may
have passed through in spite of the re-
peated filtering through the coarse coffee
! will remain at the bottom it never dis-
j turbed by boiling, and the coffee will
i pour off clear and strong. But very bad
coffee is often made by careless people by
I . 11 * J.AV
i this method.
33 To Make Coffee Restaurant.
If there is no properly constructed cof-
j fee urn, provide a tin one having a faucet
near the bottom, and a muslin bag run-
ning down to a point hanging inside from
a hoop that rests on the rim of the urn
and is covered by the lid. Put in the
coarse ground coffee J pound to 4
quarts of water. Keep a coffee pot
ppecially to boil the water in, you will
know how much it holds, and use it for
nothing else. Pour the boiling water
upon the coffee in the bag, draw it off at
the faucet and pour it through again and
again. Keep the urn where it will be at
boiling heat almost, yet not boil. This
is often very hard to manage where
there is no steam-heated stand, but some
way must be found if the coffee is to be
good.
Where there is a regular-built coffee
urn kept hot either by steam or gas that
can be regulated at will, the way is to
put into the urn the proper amount of
water and the coffee tied securely in a
muslin or canvas sack and there let it
draw.
The addition of eggs to the raw coffee
if not postitively necessary to make the
coffee clear seems to give it a raild taste
like the addition of milk. It is most
useful when the coffee is ground too fine.
If eggs are to be used put the coffee
in a pan, mix 1 or 2 eggs with a cup or
two of cold water, wet the coffee with it,
then put on in the big coffee pot and
boil before pouring it into the filtering
bag in the urn.
34 Cream For Coffee.
Use the very small individual cream-
pitchers that hold only 2 tablespoonfuls
ind serve one with each cup of coffee.
16
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
With this careful apportionment it is often
found practicable to procure cream enough
for the purpose where otherwise the serv-
ing of real cream could not be attempted
COST of coffee with cream and sugar
with coffee at 20c. , and ounce or a ta-
blespoon to each cup, and 2 teaspoons or
1 ounce sugar and 2 tablespoons cream
to each cup, and cream 90c., gall. cof-
fee 5, cream It pt, 6., sugar 5; 16c.,
for 8 cups or 2c. a cup for material.
35 Tea.
1 teaspoonful makes 1 large cup.
4 teaspoonfuls make a quart of tea.
1 heaping cupful is 14 teaspoonfuls,
and makes 1 gallon of tea if mixed tea is
used and allowed some time to draw.
2 heaping cupfuls of tea is a quarter
of a pound, and makes 2 gallons, or the
same number of cups as a pound of cof-
fee, or about 30 as cups are filled.
There are many who claim to make
2J gallons of coffee from a pound, and
the same will increase the quantity of tea
to the pound but it must be at a disad-
vantage to the good quality of the arti-
cles. It is probable that where a business
is successful in spite of a poor quality of
tea and coffee provided, it would be still
more successful with that point upheld.
On the other hand a great deal of dis-
satisfaction is caused in hotels through
an unsystematic way of making the tea;
because there is really scarcely anything
to be done that little is slighted ; a quan-
tity of tea much too large is thrown into
wnter that does not boil, in the hope to ob-
tain tea the quicker, which is bad at first;
but afterwards the tea becomes so strong
that nobody can drink it. There should
be a measure of some sort always in the
tea box, that there may be no excuse for
dipping it up by uncounted handfuls.
When the tea becomes so that it looks
like coffee in the cups, yet has neither
strength nor fragrance and of course is
unfit to drink, it may be partly due to
the use of black tea, but it is the certain
result of allowing the tea to stand and
boil too long, no matter what kind of
tea may be provided.
The best way to make tea for a lar-
ger quantity than can be supplied
from the family tea-pot is to put the
measured amount required into a box
made like a quart measure, of perforated
tin, having a lid to fasten on, and drop
it into an urn of boiling water, containing
the right proportion, and then stop the
boiling and allow J hour for the tea to
draw. The box must be large enough
to allow the tea to swell and the water
to circulate through it. Before all the
tea is drawn off add more boiling water
a fourth as much as was used at the
first for the second drawing. On an
average each person takes 2 teaspoon-
fuls of sugar to each cup of tea that is
1 ounce. In some good restaurants the
plan adopted is to give with each cup
three lumps of sugar in a butter-chip or
very small saucer; and a correspondingly
small individual pitcher with 2 table-
spoonfuls of cream.
COST of material 4 ounces tea 20,
sugar 20, cream 30; 70c 35 cups tea
for 70c, 2c a cup.
36 Chocolate.
Common unsweetened chocolate is to
be used as the sweet chocolate being -J
sugar is not strong.
1 ounce common chocolate makes 4
cups.
1 heaping cupful of grated common
chocolate, is 3 ounces and makes 3
quarts; it contains 7 tablespoonfuls.
1 heaping tablespoonful of grated com-
mon makes 2 cups as cups are filled.
Chocolate must be cold to grate; it
melts and runs when made hot. The
eu/ices are marked on the cakes.
To make chocolate take:
3 cups milk.
1 cup water.
2 heaping tablespoons grated chocolate.
Boil the milk and water in a saucepan,
drop in the chocolate and beat with the
wire egg- whisk until the chocolate is all
COOKING FOB PROFIT.
17
dissolved and it boils. It should be
made to order whenever practicable, the
milk and water being kept ready boiling,
but if made beforehand should be kept
in a sink of the steam chest or double
kettle and not allowed to boil again.
COST of material by gallon 4 ounces
chocolate 10, 3 quarts milk 21, sugar
10; 41c for 18 cups 2Jc a cup single
cups cost 2Jc.
37 A Restaurant Pot of Coffee, Tea
or Choclate.
A pot is a pint silver or crockery-ware
coffee pot that a person may order instead
of 2 cups; the restaurants that charge
lOc per cup furnish a pot of 2 cups for
15c or a pot for 2 of 4 cups for 25c of
either coffee or tea, but 5c higher per
pot for chocolate.
French coffee, meaning coffee of dou-
ble the common strength, dripped and
not boiled is 25c per pot of 2 cups.
French coffee with cognac per pot of
2 cups, 3-fourths coffee and 1 -fourth
brandy 50c.
Some Necessary Explanations.
As we are starting out to furnish a
ready-reckoning book that may in the
course of time show the average or proba-
ble cost of everything from a pie to a grand
banquet and as the selling prices of many
dishes in the restaurants and elsewhere
will often have to be quoted, for suffi-
cient reasons, we wish to caution all
readers against forming hasty conclu-
sions as to the profits made in any case.
There is not the least intention on our
part of setting the buying and selling
prices side by side for comparison, for in
fact the cost of material is very often a very
small part of the expenses of serving
meals. What those expenses are made
up of beside the cost of material it is
outside of our present business to in-
quire and these remarks are made for
fear of any false ideas being formed by
some readers who have never been in
business but think they ought to be, and
by others who may not know the differ-
ence between gross receipts and net
profits.
As regards the accuracy of our esti-
mates it is necessary to mention that
great differences in the prices of raw pro-
visions will be found to exist in different
parts of the country, coffee is cheaper in
San Francisco than in the east, salmon
is not half the price of halibut, being
only about 12c per pound when in Chi-
cago it costs 40c and halibut only 20;
eggs and butter take a wide range in
prices, and so forth. Still as our prices
are always stated upon which the esti-
mates of cost are based .each individual
can change them and arrive at the result
in his own locality. To cooks in par-
ticular who seldom trouble themselves
about the cost of materials and who
proverbially are sure to fail when they go
into business alone through deficiency of
that kind of knowledge, we hope to be of
great use by showing the necessity of
being exact in weights and measures if
they would not double the cost of arti-
cles made and render profit impossible.
38 Tenderloin Steak For One.
Price in first-class restaurants 55c,
including bread, butter, potatoes and
condiments.
Cut a slice from the filet rather ovei
than under -J pound, and in thickness
according to the size of the filet, notch
through the outside skin with the point
of the kbife, flatten the steak with a blow
of the cleaver to rather less than an inch
thick, lay it on a plate and brush over
both sides with a slight touch of butter,
broil over clear coals about 5 minutes,
or as ordered, and season with a dredg-
ing of salt and pepper while it is cook-
ing. Serve in a hot dish ; pour over it
2 tablespoonfuls of melted fresh butter,
garnish with a few sprigs of parsley and
place -J a lemon at the edges.
Serve potatoes as ordered ; if chips or
French-fried they may be in the dish as a
border, other kinds in a separate dish.
18
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
COST of material steak 18, butter to
sauce 2, potatoes 1, lemon 1, condiments
2, bread 2, butter 3; 29c.
39 Double Tenderloin.
The difference or deduction commonly
made when steak for two, of the other
descriptions is ordered is not 'observed
with tenderloins, but when a person re-
quires a double one it is simply cut accord-
ingly and so charged for. A steak to
weigh a pound will take a fourth of the
entire filet. Having cut it off the requi-
site length shave off two or three narrow
strips of the skin that partly encircles it,
to allow it to spread, and setting it on
end on the block flatten it with the
cleaver. Broil and serve as usual.
The filet consists of a lot of strings of
meat loosely held together and to be at
the best the steaks must be cut straight
up and 'down, as a slanting cut makes
course meat. At the thin end it is better
as regards good eating to cut the slices
not quite through, open and flatten them
to make the usual size. This however
does not answer for an unusually large
or double sized steak, but the fineness of
texture has to be sacrificed for the di-
mensions.
40 Tenderloin or Filet SteaksTheir
Cost.
The filet of beef is the long strip of
solid lean meat that rnns along the whole
length of the loin under the back bone
and between it and the kidney fat.
When the loin is cut and sawn straight
down to make porterhouse and sirloin
Bteaks each one of such steaks contains
a piece of the filet from 2 to 4 ounces iu
weight, according to where it is cut and
the thickness. It is the smaller lean
portion that has the suet upon it. To
make the tenderloin steaks of the res-
taurants the filet is taken out all in one
piece. This cannot be obtained of all
butchers but some, having a certain class
of trade will sell tenderloins at from 25
to 30c per pound. Those who buy beef j
by the loin or hind quarter, and having
sale for all the different grades of meat,
also take out the filet entire should still
count it at about 30c, per pound as the
following calculation shows. An even
weight is taken to make the estimate
easy to change when the price of beef is
different.
300 pounds of loin at 12c costs $36.
1-third of it is bone; 1-third is coarse
meat and fat; 1-third is fine clear steak,
including the tenderloin and the rest
nearly equal to it.
The bone is worth 2c per pound for
soup $2,
The coarse meat and fat is worth 8c
per pound $8. Take these amounts
from $36. the first price of the beef, and
the fine steaks will be found to cost 2,6c
per pound. As the tenderloin is ac-
counted a little better than the rest and
is in greater request it may be properly
reckoned at 30c per pound cost price
raw.
' 41 Filet a la Chateaubriand.
Price $1,25, or indefinite according to
style of house.
It is a large tenderloin steak broiled
between two thin steaks over a slow vhar-
coal fire until done through, with all the
gravy of the three carefully preserved.
The outside steaks removed when done
only their gravy squeezed over the oth-
er. Common thin steaks answer for the
outside. Have them wide enough and
fasten the edges together with small
skewers before placing on the gridiron.
Pour sauco of hot butter with salt and
pepper in it around the steak, add paris-
ienne potatoes and cut lemon. Truffle
sauce instead of the butter, if desired.
42 Potatoes Free With All Meat
Orders Their Cost.
Two average potatoes, or -J pound raw
make a dish.
Potatoes at $1,00 per 100 are 60c per
bushel and 4 middling potatoes cost Ic.
The cheapest way, as a matter of
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
19
course, is to serve them with their jack-
ets on or, as the French say and some-
times print in their menus, en chemise,
The next cheapest is the saute potatoes,
boiled first, peeled when cold and sliced
into a frying pan with a little fat and
browned more or less. Those pared raw
and friel by immersion in hot lard cost
the most.
In counting the* cost of potatoes as an
article of food it is necessary to estimate
that they loose half their weight by
paring raw. 100 pounds bought for $1
will be only 50 pounds after pairing
that is to say if pared by the help, and
the potatoes of a rough sort with deep
eyes. Smooth potato -s like the rose or
snowball, pared by the person who pays
for them may lose only a third of their
weight.
But potatoes boiled or steamed with
the skins on will only lose 15 pounds
out of 100 by peeling when done, or 2
or 3 ounces out of a pound instead of G
or 8. Where potatoes are used by the
wagon -load these differences are of great
consequence.
Taking the orders at a restaurant as
they come for plain boiled or baked or
the forms in which potatoes are boiled
before paring, and the fried and chips
and perhaps broiled, and sweet potatoes
it is a fair average count of Jc pe
dish for potatoes and ^cfor lard to
fry, or 100 dishes potatoes free with
meat orders for $1.
43 Porterhouse Steak For One.
Price in first-class restaurants G5c,
including bread, butter, potatoes and
condiments.
The porterhouse cut is the middle or
best part of the loin beginning an inch or
two from where the filet begins near the
last rib and extending back till the round
bone at the point of the hip is struck.
The porterhouse steaks are slices sawn
clear through, taking both bone, upper loin
and tenderloin. They cannot well be cut
weighing lesb than a pound and gene-
rally run from that to a pound and a half
according to size of beef. A loin yields
from 8 to 12 such steaks depending upon
the thickness. The butchers sell such
steaks at 25c per pound retail.
Having cut the steak from the loin
about an inch thick cut off part of the
thin strip of the flank so as to leave
about 3 inches length attached, chop off
half the depth of the back bone to give
a neat appearance without taking all the
bone away, and carefully sever the out-
side edge to prevent drawing up while
broiling. Brush over with the butter
brash and broil from G to 10 minutes or
as ordered. Serve with a border of chip
or fried potatoes.
COST of material 1 J Ibs meat (by the
loin) 25c, butter to sauce 2, potatoes 1,
condiments 2, bread 2, butter, 3; 35 to
40c as the meat may cut.
4/j Condiments With Meat Orders
Their Cost.
The greatest expense is for the table
sauces and ketchups Worcestershire,
Halford, London Club sauces and the
like and tomato ketchup, and the next
for olive oil, french mustard , and horse-
radish, while the cost of the fillings of
the cruet stands is merely nominal. One
half the expense of the costlier articles
may be saved by judicious management,
by keeping the sauces shaken up, setting
them out to each order and then moving
them to a back shelf, not inviting pro-
miscuous waste. In a business of mod-
erate dimensions the expense of table
sauces alone will easily run up to $25,
per month. Cucumber pickles are gene-
rally included in the free list of condi-
ments but dearer kinds are charged
extra.
45 Butter With Meat Orders Its
Cost.
With fine butter ranging in price from
30c per pound at the lowest to GOc and
even to75c at times, there is no protection
20
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
against lo?s on every meal served except
in serving the butter in individual allow-
ances in small butter chips. The neat
way of doing this is to make the butter
in individual prints, using for the pur-
pose a butter stamp precisely like the
pound size in common use by the far-
mers only these hold but ounce. They
are in general use in city restaurants.
They are like toy butter stamps in
size and are imported along with other
wood carvings from Switzerland. To
make the prints, dip the wooden stamp
in hot water, press in the tablespoonful
of butter that fills it, and push it out with
the moveable inside.
A person at table who has not enough
butter will call for more but such requests
are not very frequent, and the plan ef-
fectually prevents the eating of slices of
high-priced butter and slices of bread in
equal proportions. Fine creamry but-
ter at 48c per pound is 3c an ounce. We
calculate at 2 or 3c per order.
46 Porterhouse Steak for Two.
Price in first-class restaurants $1,20,
including 2 dishes of potatoes, bread,
butter and condiments.
This is 2 steaks on one dish and one
may be cut a little shorter than the other
BO that with the broad part of the steaks
at each end the one dish on which they
are served will have a neat and even ap-
pearance; the 3 inches of the flank end
being seldom eaten, but necessa.y to
make a large dish of a single steak.
47 Sirloin Steak.
Price in first-class restaurants 45c in-
cluding potatoes, bread, butter and con-
diments,
Either "a steak with a bone in it" cut
from the end of the rib roast down to
the first good porteihonse steak, or from
the loin thick end beyond the last por-
terhouse. Cut to weigh nearly a pound.
Broil and serve with a spoonful of butter
poured over, ard
COST of material steak 15, butter to
sauce 2, potatoes 1, condiments 2, bread
2, butter 3; 25c.
48 Mushrooms With Steak Orders.
Price in first-class restaurants 20 to
25c additional each person.
About half a can with each beefsteak.
Drain the mushrooms from their liquor
and fry (saute) them in a small frying
pan with a little butter. Add pepper
and salt. When they have acquired a
slight color draw them to one side of the
pan, put in a heaping teaspoonful of flour
and rub it smooth in the hot butter, still
keeping the pan over the fire, and when
the flour has become slightly browned
pour in the mushroom liquor gradually
and a few spoonfuls of water. Shake
in the mushrooms, let all boil up, squeeze
in the juice of a quarter of a lemon and
pour over the beefsteak in the dish.
COST of mushrooms. Canned mush-
rooms are all imported. There are arti-
ficial caves near Paris where the culti-
vated mushroom beds are over soven
miles long. Several different grades of
the canned goods are on the market
ranging in price from about $25 to $33
per case of 100 cans (tins they are called
by the English). The low priced article
is made up largely of mushroom stalks
and large open mushrooms. Theoe have
to be cut in pieces to serve with steaks.
They do well to mince for mushroom
sauce. The finer goods are mostly small
buttons and are white, beside being
more solidly packed. A third of a can of
the best goods will generally inakn a
better dish than half a can of the low
grade. Retail price from 30c to 40c per
can. Cost of mushrooms with beefsteak
a.s above should be 15c, or according to
buying rate.
49 Oysters with Steak Orders.
Price in first-class restaurants 20c to
25c, additional each person.
The oysters, dozen if large or a lar-
ger number of small are in a brown oys-
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
21
ter sauce prepared the same as the
mushrooms in proceeding article or in
detail.
A heaping tablespoon of flour will thicken
a cupful of liquor; only 2-thirds of that
amount is wanted, therefore, put a
rounded spoonful of flour and the same
of butter together in a small frying pan
and stir them over the fire until they are
light brown and not in the slightest de-
gree burnt. Then pour in gradually
nearly a cupful of oyster liquor and
water, etir to mix and season with salt
and pepper, then put in the dozen or
more of oysters and when they are at
boiling heat pour them over the steak.
COST of material oysters 6, butter 3,
flour and seasonings 1, lOc.
50 French Pease with Steak Orders.
Price in first-class restaurants 20c to
25c additional each person.
About ^ can of Dease with each beef-
steak. Throw away the water and put
the pease into a small saucepan with an
ounce* of butter and little salt, shake
them over the fire until hot and pour over
and around the steak.
For pease a la Francaise the difference
is that a little cream sauce must be made
first with a spoonful of flour and the
same of butter stirred together over the
fire but not browned, and a half cup ol
milk added ; then put in the pease and
let it get hot.
COST of pease French pease range in
price from $25 to $33 per case of 100
cans (tins), the quality varying from
large mature pease apparently artificfalh
colored, to the "petits pois extra fins/
which are very small and sweet. Ii
takes a third of a can for a sirloin steak
and J can for a porterhouse. Pease re-
tail at 30c to 40c per can. Cost with
butter average 15c. There are homi
packed pease to be had as good as th<
French at much less cost. The French ar
tides are made green by the addition
of a little vichy salt to the water they
are canned in.
51 Tomato Sauce With Meat Orders.
Price in first-class restaurants lOc
additional each person.
Throw 4 tomatoes into boiling water;
n three or four minutes take them out
peel and cut off the green around the
stem, mash them in a little saucepan
over the fire and let simmer in their own
uice. In another pan put an ounce of
jutter with a scrap of raw ham and a
teaspoon of minced onion and when they
mve fried a minute add a small table-
spoon of flour and stir until light brown.
Add cup of water or stock and then
the stewed tomatoes. Salt and pepper
slightly. Press the sauce through a
gravy strainer. Pour it over the meat
n the dish.
COST of material per order 6c A
cheaper quality for low-priced dishes can
be made without butter; and also by
simply stewing down strained tomatoes^
and their liquor until thick enough, and"
dding salt and pepper. The last is
probably the best of all but must be pre-
pared before wanted, needing slow stew-
ing down at the back of the range.
52 Onions With Meat Orders.
Price in first-class restaurants lOc to
15c additional each person.
Slice thinly enough onions to fill such
a dish as is used to serve fried potatoes
in. Put them into a small frying pan with
a spoonful of lard or drippings, shut down
with a plate or good lid and let cook in
that manner until tender 5 to 10 min-
utes then take off the plate and let the
onions get light brown. Sprinkle with
salt. Drain away the grease, if any left,
and serve the onions on the meat in the
dish.
COST of material the price of the
onions and the detriment caused by the
odor that prevades the establishment.
53 Small Steak.
The common term for a steak of no
particular cut. Price in restaurants from
22
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
Socdownto 15c, including baked, boiled
or saute potatoes, bread, butter and sea-
eonings.
A pound of round steak as cut by the
butchers divided in three makes 5-onnce
steaks, all meat, ot a size sufficient for
an ordinary meal. Beat them out a
little with the side of the cleaver and fry
instead of broiling them with the scraps
of fat in the same pan.
COST of material with round steak at
12c meat 4, 1 potatoe -Jo cruet condi-
ments |c bread 2, butter 2; 9c. With
rough steak at 8c, Ic per order less, or
ft large steak ot 2 orders to the pound.
54 Cheap Beefsteak.
After purchasers have been found wil-
ling to pay 25c to 30c per, pound for se-
lected portions there remains a large
amount of every carcass that will rate
.cither at the 12 cent rate of round of
bief or as skirt or flank and buttock
worth about 8c or of a cheaper grade
yet, the neck and brisket. This may be
bought at 5c, but it is half bone. If 150
pounds costs $7,50 at 5c, when the bone
is taken out it will be 75 pounds of clear
meat costing lOc per pound. If the bone
be worth 2c per pound for soup as doubt-
less it is, the 75 pounds is worth $1,50,
making the clear meat co?t only 8c per
pound. This meat is equally nutritious
with the selected portions but is not fit
for broiling, as it takes a longer time to
make it tender.
To make it good, slice it and lay it in
a deep baking pan and fry it with drip-
pings or some of the brisket fat pieces in
the usual manner, with a strong season-
ing of pepper and salt and a small allow-
ance of onion and when it is brown on
both sides fill up the pan with water and
let it bake in that manner in the oven for
an hour or two. The water will be re-
duced to brown gravy by that time.
Add a teaspoonful of flour thickening.
COST of material J pound of meat
with gravy and seasonings 3J, 1 large
boiled potatoe , bread 2, the meal 6c.
Chicken and Rice a la Valenciana.
Take a fresh killed fowl. Cut in
small pieces, braise for twenty minutes
in a saucepan. Chop very fine two
onions, with two dants garlic and a
fagot of parsley ; add to the chicken
and braise for five minutes over a slow
fire Then add one pint of tomato
sauce and a quar- of soup stock and
two heads of cloves. When the stock
corr.es to boil, add a pound of rice and
season to taste. Let it cook over a
slow fire till done.
Ladies' Lunches.
For ladies' lunches a truce has been
sounded to the expensive decorations
of dinner cards, painted ribbons and
bags for bonbons. The menu has been
simplified. Chops with pease, a
Spanish omelet (a delicious dish this),
birds broiled, fried potatoes, mush-
rooms on toast, artichokes, salads,
champagne, coffee and fruit: this is
now deemed a very stylish lunch for
ladies, and is not overloaded. Roasted
almonds, salted, make a very good
relish after the sweets.
Spanish Omelet.
Place in a saute'-paii one clove of a
garlic, a quarter of a can of tomatoes,
chopped mushrooms and chopped
ham; season with salt, pepper and
cook. Break three eggs into a bowl
and beat thoroughly; add a half a
cup of milk, salt arid pepper and make
an omelette in the usual way and
place in the middle the thick part of
the foregoing preparation; roll your
omelette on a side dish and pour the
remainder around the omelette and
serve.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
RESTAURANT DINNER DISHES.
55 Rich Beef Soup.
15c
Price in first-class restaurants
large bowl, with bread.
To make a gallon of eoup put into a
boiler a pailful of soup meat and soup
bones broken up about 10 or 12 pounds
by weight and the same measure of
water which will be 2J gallons or 20
pounds and slowly boil until it is re-
duced to about half, or 5 quarts. Then
strain it off through a fine gravy strainer
or seive into the soup-pot and skim off
the fat, probably a pint or pound. If
convenient and the vegetables are at hand
a small bunch of various kinds should be
boiled along with the soup bones, it is of
more consequence, however, to get the
stock to boiling early, that it may have
6 or 8 hours time, as the seasoning can
be done afterwards. Then take the
4 quarts of soup stock.
2 cups cold cooked beef cut in dice.
2 cups raw vegetables same way
turnip, ruta-baga, carrot, oniuu, celery,
a little of each to make the amount.
1 clove of garlic.
J a bay leaf.
3 cloves.
4 heaping tablespoons browned flour.
2 tablespoons salt.
1 tablespoon pepper.
Shave all the dark outside from the
piece of cooked beef and cut it into clean
squares, boil them and the cut vegetables
in the soup hour, cut the garlic small
and add with the other seasonings. Mix
the browned flour with some of the soup
and thicken with it. The bayleafcan
be taken out again with the skimmings.
Browned flour is flour baked dry in a
pan in the oven.
COST of material soup bones 25,
cooked beef 5 (seasonings paid for by
frying fat from stock) 30c gall. Add
brea i or crackers and castor condiments
8 bowls 12c; 5 or 6c a bowl.
56 Boiled Fresh Codfish, Egg Sauce.
Price in first-class restaurants per dish
of 1 pound 35c, including bread, butter,
potatoes and condiments.
Clean a fresh codfish the head is
considered a delicacy in some countries,
and it makes good chowder, but if not
wanted for that boil it in the same ves-
sel with the fish to enrich the liquor
have the water ready boiling in the flsh
kettle, throw in a handful of salt, put
in the fish and boil gently at the pitle of
the range about hour or until the flesh
will leave the backbone when tried.
Then lift out the drainer or false bottom
with the fish unon it and keep it hot.
57 Egg Sauce.
4 cups clear broth or water.
J cup butter.
3 hard-boiled eggs.
3 rounded tablespoons flour.
1 tablespoon salt.
Boil 3 cups of the water with J the
butter in it and the salt. Mix the flour
with the rest of the water and add it for
thickening. When boiled up add rest
of butter and beat till all melted chop the
eggs coarse and stir them in.
COST of egg sauce butter 8, eggs 6,
flour and salt 1, 14c for 8 orders.
COST of boiled codfish 10 Ibs gross
$1,00; loss and shrinkage 4 Ibs 8
12-oz dishes with 4 oz sauce 15c dish.
Add bread, butter and potatoes to
cost.
NOTE The size of the dishes here
mentioned is enough for 3 or 4 hotel din-
ner dishes.
58 Salmon Steak Maitre d* Hotel.
Price 50 cents.
Have ready some potatoes with the
skins on cooked in a steamer and hot as
they keep a better shape for restaurant
dishes managed this way than if pared
and stewed.
Pepper and salt a 12-ounce salmon st&ik,
nib the bars of the hiuged wire broiler with
24
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
butter and broil tbe steak either over or
before a clear fire about G or 8 minutes,
loosen it from the wires by pushing with
a brush dipped in butter and place on a
hot dish of large size.
Peel and cut 2 or 3 potatoes in quar-
ters and shake them up in a little hot
butter with salt; place them around the
steak.
Chop a lump of butter size of an egg
in a frying pan, throw in a large teaspoon
of chopped parsley, pour it hot over the
salmon. Cut a lemon, sqeeze half over
the salmon and garnish with the other
quarters, and sprigs of parsley.
COST of material salmon steak aver-
age 25, lemon and parsley 2, butter 4,
potatoes, 1, 32c.
NOTE Salmon ateak varies in price
from lOc to $1,50 per pound raw in mar-
ket according to place and season, and
restaurant prices accordingly.
59 New England Boiled Dinner.
Price in first-class restaurants 30c,
including bread, butter, and condiments.
Boil 3 or 4 pounds corned beef for 3
hours or longer. Also 1J pounds salt
pork about 1 hour.
Cook, either by boiling or steaming,
1 head of cabbage, 8 small onions, 8
pieces each of carrots, turnips, parsnips,
and beets, and 8 potatoes.
To serve, put a portion of every kind
of vegetable in orderly shape in an 8-inch
flat platter and a 4-oz slice of corned beef
and 2-oz slice of salt pork on top.
COST of material 4 Ibs corned beef at
7c will lose one-half by bone and shrink-
age 8 4-oz dishes 28c. Salt pork 8
dishes 20e, vegetables, nearly a pound
weight in each dish, equal to l| Ibs gross
raw at average 2c, Ib for all kinds, 8
dishes, 12 Ibs, 24c total 72c for 8
dishes, 9c per dish. Add bread, butter
and condiments to cost. Save the fry-
ing fa I from the meat boiler.
NOTE. Cheap restaurants serve the
above dinner for 15c, perhaps for less. The
quantities can be cut down somewhat,
the beef served with some bone in it, the
vegetables often bought for less than half
the quoted average or the dearer sorts
left out.
60 Irish Stew With Vegetables.
Price 20c.
It should be observed that this dish
which is very popular if properly cooked
is utterly worthless when the meat is not
stewed tender.
2 breasts of mutton 4J Ibs.
8 potatoes cut, or 16 small 4 Ibs.
8 small onions.
2 turnips.
A bunch of parsley and thyme.
Salt and pepper and thickening.
Saw the mutton briskets in two places
lengthwise across the bones and divide
them in neat lengths. Put them on in 3 or
4 quarts of water and let stew 3 hours.
Parboil all the vegetables in another
saucepan, then drain away the water and
put them in with the mutton and let
cook about an hour longer. It may be
necessary to keep out the potatoes if they
are of a kind that break when done and
steam them separately. Thicken the stew
with 2 tablespoons flour, salt and pep-
per to taste and add the parsley chopped.
Dish the meat equivalent to J Ib raw
weight, and a potato, onion and "piece of
turnip around, and plenty of the sauce.
COST of material meat 22, potatoes
4, onions and turnips 4, seasonings and
flour 2, 32c for 8 dishes or about 4c a
dish. Add bread, butter and condi-
ments to cost.
61 Roast Turkey.
Price 35c; with cranberry or oyster
sauce 40c.
As a rule a turkey that weighs 10 Ibs.
raw, drawn, should make 10 restaurant
dishes of the price 2sidebones, 2 drum-
sticks, 2 second joints, 2 tail pieces, 2
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
25
neck pieces, all split through and divided
as necessary, with a slice of the breast :
upon each and dressing in the dish. !
This proportion can only be kept up -with !
plump turkeys of medium size large and
very fat ones having a considerable
weight about the crop and neck that I
cannot be utilized, and the bone cuts be
ing too large and coarse. Young and i
light turkeys, sometimes no larger than i
common hens although not fat are good i
for restaurant use, sometimes admitting
of being served in 4 or 5 portions only;
light, but a dishful.
Pick over and singe the turkey, take
off the wing pinions if a number are to
be cooked together as they make a good
stewed dish and are but little cared for
when roasted. Wash,and stuff the turkey
with bread dressing, truss the legs in i
the body. Put it in a baking pan wi h
:\ handful of salt, the fat from the gizzard
and some toppings of the stock boiler and
a cup of water. Roast it in the oven about
2 hours. At the beginning of the cook-
ing keep a greased sheet of paper over
it to prevent blistering the skin and re-
move it later to baste and brown the tur-
key. When done take it up, poui off
the grease and make gravy in the bak-
ing pan.
62 Stuffing FOP Turkey.
63 Minced Turkey with a Poached
Egg-
8 solid cups fine minced bread crumbs,
1 heaping teaspoon salt.
1 heaping teaspoon black pepper.
1 heaping teaspoon ground sage.
2 cups warm water.
1 heaping cup finely minced suet.
Mix all together but not mash it to
naste, and stuff the turkey with it.
COST of stuffing 2 Ibs stale bread 10,
5 oz suet 4 seasonings 1; 15c.
COST of roast turkey stuffed 10 Ibs
turkey $1:80, stuffing 15, gravey 5;
$2:00 for 10 dishes, 20c dish.
Price 35 cents including bread, butter,
potatoes and condiments.
One 8 Ib turkey.
2 cups fine bread crumbs 6 oz.
3 pints broth.
3 heaping tablespoons browned flour.
1 small onion.
1 large teaspoonful black pepper.
2 of salt,
12 eggs.
Either boil or roast the turkey, boiling
is the better way when the turkey is old
but roasting gives the better flavor.
Pick all the meat from the bones and
cut it in very small dice, mix in the bread
minced extremely fine. An 8 Ib turkey
only yields 3 Ibs clear meat 6 pressed
cupfuls. Put the turkey bone, skin and
pieces of tat and piece of onion on to boil
in 3 quarts of broth and boil it down to
3 pints. Strain off, add the pepper and
salt, thicken with the browned flour and
when it has boiled put in the turkey
meat and stir until quite hot through.
Dish a cupful J Ib in a platter, flatten
the top and place one poached egg up-
on it.
COST of material turkey at 18c 8
Ibs $1,44, bread and seasonings 5, eggs
20, $l,G9for!2 dishes about 14c dish.
Add bread, butter and potatoes to cost.
NOTE A smaller amount can be made
with one fowl or a part of a turkey left
over, by observing the same proportions.
When no poultry fat a little butter should
be used in its place. A chicken makes
3 or 4 large dishes.
64 Rabbit Pot Pie.
Price in first-class restaurants 30- cents
dish of about 1 pound.
4 pounds rabbit 1 jack or 4 common.
10 ounces salt pork.
1 small onion and some parsley.
1 tablespoon black pepper.
2 tablespoons of salt.
2G
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
3 tablespoons of flour.
2 pounds flour for crust.
Cut up the rabbits; chop of the thin part
of the ribs and throw them away, divide
down the back and make 4 pieces of i
and divide the legs into 2 if large. Stee]
in cold water to wniten the meat anr
cleanse thoroughly. Boil 3 hours in 4
quarts water, or until reduced to
quarts. Cut the pork into strips anc
fry them partially, the onion cut up in the
fat, and as soon as they begin to brown adc
them to the stew. Season and thicken
pour the stew into a baking pan and cov-
er with soft pot pie crust (No 18) made
of 2 pounds flour, 6 teaspoons powder
3 caps water and salt. Bake 20 or 30
minutes basting the crust with the stew
liquor at last. Dish rabbit equivalent to
J pound in dish with gravy and light
spongy crust on top.
COST of material rabbita 40, pork
10, seasonings 2, flour 7, powder 3 oz 6c;
C5c for 8 dishes or about Sc dish.
65 Macaroni and Tomatoes, Italienne.
Price in first-class restaurants 15c a
vegetable side dish of less than \ pound.
\ pound macaroni J a package.
| cup grated cheese.
1 cup thick stewed tomatoes.
1 cup brown meat gravy.
Pepper.
This ia the favorite way with the Ital-
ians. The dish need not be baked.
They simply boil the macaroni and then
make it rich, not to say greasy, with the
other articles and gravy from the meat
dishes.
Break the macaroni into three-inch
' lengths, throw it into boiling water and
let cook twenty minutes. Drain it, put
it into a baking pan, mix in the grated
cheese, the tomatoes, the gravy, salt and
pepper and, if necessary, a lump of but-
ter. Mix up and let simmer together
about half an hour, either in a slack
oven or on the stove hearth. It will be
all eaten if not made too strong flavored
with tomatoes or too salt the common
mistakes.
COST of material macaroni 10, toma-
toes a pint stewed down 8, cheese 2,
gravy 2; 22c for 6 or 8 dishes.
66 Asparagus on Toast.
side
Price 15c. An extra vegetable
dish where potatoes are given free.
Trim off the ends of the stalks of as-
paragus, let it lie in cold water awhile.
Have the water ready boiling, put in a
little salt and a pinch of baking soda size
of a bean, to keep the asparagus of good
color, drop in tho asparagus tied in
bunches and boil gently until the green
end is tender, from 15 minutes to 45
minutes according to age and thickness.
Dram without breaking off the heads.
Serve 8 to 12 in a dish with a slice of
buttered toast under the white ends and
a spoonful of melted butter poured over
the heads in the dish.
COST According to the market and
season, When canned asparagus, a can
aiakes 3 orders asparagus 8, toast and
butter 2, lOc dish restaurant size.
67 Plain Fritters With Sauce.
Price served as a pudding dish lOc.
4 cups flour 1 pound.
1 large teaspoon baking powder*
2 cups water slightly warm.
3 egg?.
3 tablespoons melted lard,
1 of molasses.
Pinch of salt.
Lard to fry.
Sift tLe flour into a pan and throw in
he powder, make a hollow in middle,
put in all the rest the water not quite
old enough to set the shortening and
tir up thoroughly into a soft fritter
iough. It may need another basting
poon of water. Beat well. Fry large
poonfuls in hot lard or good fat from
he meat pans. Serve 2 in a dish with
: cup of sauce. Makes 24 fritters or ac-
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
27
cording to size and how light the dough
is made by beating.
COST of material flour 3, powder 1,
eggs 5, shortening 1, molasses 1, lard
consumed or damaged in frying 8; 19c
for 24 fritters sauce 15 34 cents for
12 dishes, 3c dish.
68 Sauce for Fritters.
4 cups water a quart.
Lemon peel, blade of mace, few cloves.
2 cups sugar.
% cup corn starch.
Boil the water with the flavoring in
it. Mix the starch in the sugar dry,
drop it into the water quickly and
beat with the egg whisk. Strain into
another saucepan and simmer at the side
of the range until it becomes clear like
COST of sauce 3 pints cost 15c.
69 Baked Apple Dumplings With
Sauce.
Price as pudding lOc.
For large restaurant disk make
the
dumpling of a whole apple but of a size
that run 4 to a pound. Make the plain
paste as for pies* at Nos. 20 and 21.
Pare and core the apples, roll the paste
out to a large, thin sheet on the table,
slip an apple under the edge, gather the
paste around and pinch it off underneath.
Bake placed close together in a moder-
ate oven until the apples are done when
tried with a fork generally 30 to 4&
minutes. Serve with sauce.
COST of material crust each 2, apples*
fat 4clb) each 1, 3c dish with^auce 1,
4c dish.
70 Apple Dumpling Sauce.
1 J cups boiling water.
1 cup light brown, sugar.
J cup butter.
Nutmeg.
1 tablespoon flour, large.
Mix flour and sugar together in a
saucepan dry, pour the boiling water to
them, add butter and grate in some nut-
meg, stir over the fire until it boils.
COST of sauce 14 bastingepoonp or
-i - j & f
orders 14c.
Scrapple
is made thus: Select a young pigs
head, slit the ears and clean them and
the mouth thoroughly and remove the
eyes, cut out the tongue, scald and
skin it. ut the head into three
gallons of cold water and boil slowly
until the flesh is easily removed from
the bones. Remove the scum and
take out the head ; reduce the meat
to a mince, return it to the liquid and
season moderately with salt and
pepper; mix together a teaspoonful
each of powdered sage, sweet mar-
joram and thyme, and add to the
meat. Mix together a quart each of
Indian meal and buck-wheat flour,
and add it slowly to the liquid, stirring
as in the making of ordinary mush.
Should the fire be too hot, remove the
pot to the back of the range, where it
will boil very moderately for half an
hour. Stir until ready to pour it into
greased pans, where it is to remain
until solid. Should the water have
evaporated too much all of the meal
may not be required, and on the
contrary, you may require more meal
if it has not evaporated sufficiently.
Cut in slices about one-quarter of au
inch thick, dredge the slices with fine
meal, and fry crisp in a liberal quan-
tity of smoking fat. Some prefer it
fried plain, with very little fat, and
browned nicelv on both sides.
SAN FXANC1SCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
RESTAURANT SUPPER DISHES.
71 Soft-Shell Crabs Fried.
Two crabs to an order, common price
60c including bread, butter, potatoes and
condiments.
Every part is eatable except the sand
pouch underneath, which pull off and
wash the crab in cold water. Dry on a
cloth, bread it by dipping in beaten egg
with a little water in it and then in
cracker meal and fry in hot lard until
the claws are crisp and the crab is light
brown. Garnish with fried parsley.
COST of material crabs 12Jc each,
lard 2, breading 3, accompaniments 6;
36c.
72 Soft-Shell Crabs Boiled.
Pull off the small claws and the sand
pouch and wash. Drop the crabs into
boiling salted water and cook about 10
minutes. Serve with butter sauce, pars-
ley sauce, cream sauce or mayonaise, as
ordered.
COST 2 crabs 25, sauce 2, bread, but-
ter, etc. 6; 35c.
73 Pork Tenderloin Broiled or Fried.
Price in first-class restaurants 35 cts.
including the usual accessories.
Pork tenderloins weigh from 6 ounces
to a pound each. The large ones should
be split part way and opened out and
flattened; the small take two to an or-
der not split. Season aud broil same as
beefsteak well done, or saute in a frying
pan. Serve with a spoonful of butter
over and a border of fried potatoes.
COST of material pork tenderloin 12,
potatoes 1, bread and butter 5, condi-
ments 2; 20c.
74 Pork Tenderlofn With Fried Ap-
ples.
The tenderloin cooked by broiling or
frying. The apples instead of potatoes.
Slice two apples across the core with-
out pairing or coring; dip the glices in
flour and lay them in a large fryingpan in
which is a little hot drippings or lard. Fry
one side brown then turn them over with
a broad knife. This is one of the things
that is clone right only in a few places,un-
skillful hands get the apples "mussed
up" and greasy. Some kinds of apples
fry well enough without flour.
Dish up on the edge of the hot dish
around the tenderloin, chop or salt pork.
COST apples at .4c pound 2 apples
weigh J pound, frying-fat Ic, 2 or 3
cents a dish.
75 Honeycomb Tripe Broiled or Fried.
Price 35 cents, including bread, but-
ter, potatoes and condiments.
Quite a specialty in some restaurants.
Cut pieces of about 12 ounces, they are
nearly twice as large as the open hand,
dip both sides in flour, broil in the hinged
wire broiler, brush liberally with butter
and serve the honeycomb side upwards
with the butter in a froth upon it. Serve
potatoes either around it or in a separate
dish, according to kind. Can be fried
(sawteed) in a frying-pan in a little but-
ter after flouring in the same way with-
out breading, but will not brown very
well without the butter.
COST of material tripe 12, butter to
sauce 2, extras 6; 20c.
76 Ham and Eggs Restaurant.
First-class price 45 cents, including
bread, butter, potatoes and condiments.
Medium-sized hams should be selected,
the very small ones being too lean, salt
and hard , and the very large not making
bandsome cuts. Shave off the outside,
cut slices clear across, very thin, down
to the bone, drive a ekewer into the
block down by the bone to steady it and
saw through with a small sharp saw
keptrfbr the purpose. This is a difficult
and trying joo with a soft ham unless
good tools are kept to work with, aud
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
29
the ham is very liable to be torn and
hacked in a very wasteful manner. The
slices of ham weigh from 5 or 6 ounces
to 12 ounces according as cut.
Broil the ham about 6 minutes, lay it
in a hot dish. Fry 3 eggs, half turned
over and dish them side by side with
the ham.
COST of material (allowing for waste,
butt and^shank) ham 12, eggs 6. pota-
toes 1, bread and butter 6, condiments
1; 25c.
77 Omelet With Jelly.
First-class price, omelet with 3 eggs
25 cents.
Break 3 eggs into a bowl, put in with
them 3 tablespoons milk. Beat to mix
but not to make it too light. Put a
bastingspoonful of the clear part of melted
butter, into the frying pan, pour in the
omelet without waiting for the butter to
get hot and discolored, let cook gradually,
shaking it frequently to the further side
of the pan until the thin edge, forced up-
ward, falls over into the middle. When
it is nicely browned and the upp^r side
just set, put current jelly or other fruit
jelly in a long line in the middle that is
made hollow in the further side of the
pan for the purpose. Roll so as to shut
in the jelly, slide it smooth side up on to
a hot dish, dredge powdered sugar on
too and mark it with slanting cross-bars
by touching the sugar with a red-hot
wire or spoon handle.
COST of material eggs 8, butter to fry
3, jelly 5, sugar 1; 17c.
78 Omelet With Oysters.
Frist-class price 50 cents, made with
\ dozen large oysters.
3 eggs.
Milk, butter, seasonings.
Cook the oysters rare done in a little
saucepan separately, with a spoonful of
milk, scrap of butter and thickening to
make white sauce of the liquor.
Break the eggs in a bowl, put in a
spoonful of milk and beat with the wire
egg whisk. Add a pinch of salt.
Shake a tablespoonful of melted lard
or clear butter about in the omelet frying
pan and before it gets very hot pour in
the omelet and let it cook 'rather slowly.
Properly made omelets are not exactly
rolled up, but there is a knack, to be
learned of shaping them in the pan by
shaking while cooking into one side of it,
the side farthest from you, while you
keep the handle toward you raised high-
er. Loosen the edges with a knife when
it is nearly cooked enough to shake. *
When the omelet is nearly done to the
center place the oysters with i spoon in
the hollow middle and pull over the fur-
ther edge to cover them in. Slide on to
the dish, smooth eide up. Garnish with
parsley and lemon.
One reason of omelets and all fried
eggs sticking to the frying pan is allow-
ing the pan to get too hot. They seldom
stick when poured into a pan that is
only kept warm till wanted. The pans
should be kept for no other purpose, and
be rubbed smooth after using, if not
bright. .
COST of material oysters 10, eggs 8,
butter, sauce, seasonings 4, garnish 2,
table extras 6; 30c.
79 Oyster Omelet.
Make the omelet according to direc-
tions preceding and pour over it when
done and in the dish the oysters cut in
pieces in .a brown sauce as follows.
Put a large ^ cup of oysters into a
frying-pan with their liquor, and salt
and pepper and keep them in motion by
shaking over the fire until they are soft-
cooked. Take up with a skimmer and
cut them in pieces.
Stir a, heaping teaspoon of sifted flour
and twice the measure of butter together
in a very small saucepan over the fire
until light brown, add \ cup milk and
the cooked oyster liquor, if any, and
when it has boiled up put in the cut oys-
SAN FRANGISGO HOTEL GAZETTES
ters. Add the juice of a quarter of
lemon.
The above brown oyster sauce should
be prepared before the omelet, is cooked
as omelets are not good unless eaten as
soon as done.
COST, the same as omelet with oyster*
preceding. cup oysters is doz large.
80 Liver and Bacon Broiled..
First-class price 35 cents, including
potatoes, bread, butter and condiments.
pound slice of calf s liver.
3 ounces breakfast bacon.
Cut the liver broad and thin, pepper
and salt, dip both sides in flour, broil
and while it is cooking brush it over
with soft butter.
Fry the 2 slices of bacon first, then
finish on the gridiron. Serve the liver
with the butter frothing upon it, the ba-
con on top and potatoes around in the
dish.
COST of material. The supply of call's
liver is never equal to the demand and
the butchers easily get 25c per pound.
Beef liver has to be the main reliance
for this dish and can be had much
cheaper. Liver average 10, bacon (al-
lowing for waste in cutting) 6, butter 1,
potatoes 1, bread, butter, etc. 5; 23c.
81 Welsh Rarebit or Canapes au
Fromage.
First-class price 40 cents.
4 to G ounces good cheese.
Butter size of an egg 2 ounces.
J cup of ale.
2 yolks of eggs.
Little cayenne and salt.
4 thin pieces of toast.
Chop the cheese small, throw it and
tho butter into a little saucepan and as
they get warm mash them together.
When softened add the yolks and ale
and pinch of cayenne and salt. Stir till
it is creamy, but do not let it boil, for
that would spoil it. Place the dlic** of
toast on a dish, pour the creamed cheese
upon them and set inside the oven about
two minutes. The ale only heightens
the flavor, and some prefer to use milk.
The simplest form of Welsh rarebit is
a slice of cheese placed on a slice of
bread and baked in the oven. It de-
pends upon the quality of the cheese a good
deal whether it will prove satisfactory.
And an addition to canapes au from-
age is sometimes made in the form of a
nicely-poached egg on the top of each
canape, in the hot cheese. This dish
then goes by the fanciful name of the
"golden buck" at least it has been so
named in a few places where price was
no object and specialties paid.
COST of material cheese 8, butter 4,
ale 4, eggs 5, toast 1, table extras 4;
26c.
With poached eggs on top, cost in-
creased and price indefinite.
82 Minced Potatoes.
This likewise has been a restaurant
specialty and has been known as of
great effect in drawing trade. It ought
to be observed, however, that it takes a
considerable allowance o^ butter in the
pan to give the potatoes the fine yellow-
brown, and appetizing flavor that will
draw the people from a distance of many
blocks to breakfast or supper.
Chop cold boiled potatoe" quite fine
and season with salt. Spread a spoon-
ful of drippings or butter in an omelet-
pan or small frying-pan and place the
minced potatoes about an inch deep.
Cook on top of the range like a cake,
without stirring. Invert a plate that
just fits the pan over the potatoes. Let
them brown nicely and slowly, then turn
over on to the plate. Push in the edge
a little all around and serve on the same
plate with the brown on top. There are
oval shaped pans that make these suita-
ble for a platter, and even in the round
frying-pan it can be managed to give the
cake the platter shape.
COOKINO FOR PROFIT.
31
83-Corn Meal Mush and Milk.
One of the floating paragraphs of the
day is concerning a noted British journa-
list who cannot bring himself to like corn
meal and says unfavorable things about it
such as paying it is nothing but oatmeal
with a flavor of mice. He has evidently
been trying yellow meal, and probably
that not properly cooked. An early
training "down south" convinced the
writer of these lines that there is much
more in corn meal than is generally sup-
posed, and various people who have
tried his methods have expressed a
pleased surprise. It is no use, however,
to try to gain favor for yellow corn meal.
Its strong flavor may be agreeable to
such as have been accustomed to it since
childhood, but then- preferences will not
be shared by many. Always use white
corn meal, coarsely ground and free from
flour, make the mush with all the water
it will take up, have it as soft and jelly-
like to fry as it can well be cut and
handled when cold ; be careful to salt it
right and fry it handsomely and you will
find corn meal in its different forms of
mush md milk, fried mush, corn bread,
muffins, batter-cakes, corn meal pud-
dings, and others, an article so pleasant
to the palate that it soon cornea to be re-
garded as one of the indispensibles.
While it is true the negro cooks of the
south have had almost the monopoly of
the art of cooking corn meal it will not do
to admit that what they accomplish
through the simple habit of doing, cannot
as well be done by the exercise of intelli-
gent judgement. Take
2 heaping cnps white corn meal.
8 cups water.
1 rounded tablespoon salt.
\Vhere the mush has to be made on a
cook stove, a cast pot with feet, to raise
the bottom an inch from the fire, is the
best vessel to use. It lessens the ten-
dency to burn and reduces tie waste if
the inside is brushed over with a touch
of lard or drippings. Put the salt in the
water, boil, and sprinkle the dry meal
in with one hand while you beat with an
egg-beater or spoon in the other. Put
on the lid, and let simmer with the steam
ehut in for about three hours.
If carefully cooked with a lid on and
not burnt there will be as much mush as
there was water put in, that is two
quarts.
Double the quantity needed for one
meal should be made and half put away
to become cold to fry. For this purpose
very slightly grease a pan, press the
mush in evenly, and slightly brush over
with melted lard again. No matter how
little the grease, it prevents the forma-
tion of a crust by drying on top.
Each quart of cold mush will cut into
about ten slices or blocks for frying.
COST of mush and milk corn meal 4,
milk 2 quarts 1620 cents for 8 half
pintb milk and 8 half pints mush or 2c
each pint bowl.
NOTE mush and milk served as a
first course for supper or breakfast in
hotels is but a spoonful in each bowl;
perhaps a third, or less, of the restau-
rant bowl above specified.
Hominy Muffins.
Pound one pint of cold boiled
hominy to a smooth paste, add to it
half a pint of flour, one teaspoonful
of salt, a heaping tabl^spoonful of
baking powder. Beat the yolks and
whites of two eggs separately, add to
the yolks two ounces of butter, same
of sugar, and a scant pint of luke-
warm milk. Mix these ingredients
together and stir into the flour, mix
quickly, pour the batter into hot, weil-
buttered muffin rings, and bake in a
quick oven.
32
SAN FEANCJSCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
HOTEL BREAKFAST DISHES.
84 "Old-Fashioned" Broiled Beef-
steak and Gravy.
Take a whole sirloin or other steak as
cut by the butcher, notch the edges to
prevent curling up on the gridiron and
beat it out on the block more or less ac-
cording to its thickness or the greater or
less tenderness of the meat, for the ex-
perienced cook is ble to improve a poor
steak considerably.
Put a shovelful of charcoal in the ash
pan of the range and some live coals from
the fire on that, cover with a pan or oth-
er means of making a draft over the
coals. Rub the bars of the gridiron with
a piece of bacon rind, lay the whole
steak upon it and cook medium well
done over the charcoal when it has
burned clear. Have a piece of butter
ready in a tin pan with a heaping tea-
spoon of good black pepper* and two cf
salt, put in the hot steak and press it
into the butter, making the gravy run
out, add half a cup of not water, set the
pan and contents over the coals and
when it begins to simmer the gravy and
pepper will have thickened the water
and made a good gravy.
Dish up on a large hot platter, carve
in pieces about the size of two or three
fingers and serve a spoonful of the gravy
with each cut.
The next thing to broiling for that kind
of beefsteak is frying over the fire, but a
little piece in a pan does not come out
natural-looking, but burns around the
edges it must be a full pan or nothing.
Good broiling can be done in a hinged
wire broiier set over the open hole of a
stove, but forethought is required to let
the fire burn down to a bed of glowing
coals in time for it, and to turn the dam-
per so that the draft will be strong
enough to carry the smoke up the chim-
ney. Some families and others are
made miserable by having their so-called
broiled meats always tasting of smoke
and coal smoke at that. This is some-
hing that calls for the exercise of com-
mon sense.
Cost of family beefsteak and gravy
pounds steak at 12c loses one-fourth
Done, fat and cooking, 24 ounces costs
24 cents, butter and seasoning 8 3
ounces of meat to each order, 32 cents
"or 8 orders or 4c each person.
85 Individual Beefsteaks.
This method practiced by a domestic
cook has been known to give extreme
satisfaction to a large houseful of people
when a so-called first-class cook had ut-
terly failed to fill the requirements of the
place.
Order the steak from the butcher cut
thin, and divide it in pieces weighing 2
ounces about the size of 4 fingers. Lay
your steak on a board of hard wood
and pound it down thin with the back
edge of a heavy knife. Fry the steaks
as wanted in frying pans slightly greased
and let cook only 2 or 3 minutes and
send in hot without gravy. All the
merit of this plan is in the sort of blunt
chopping with the knife-back, that
spreads out the meat, gristle and all as
thin as the edge of a dinner plate,
86 Minced Beefsteak.
4J cups lean beef minced
lj cnps beef fat minced.
J cup cold water.
1 heaping teaspoon salt.
Same of black pepper.
Or, 3 pounds meat, one fourth of it
tat, chopped and seasoned like sausage
and a little water added.
Take the thick part of beef flank or
any that is tender but that looks too
stringy and rough for steaks, cut both
lean and fat clear of such skin and gris-
tle as will not chop nicely. Mince it in
a bowl and when finished and seasoned
press it in a 2 quart pan and when to be
cooked cut in slices like beefsteaks and
fry on both sides, and serve with its own
gravy poured over it. It should be made
fresh every day.
COOKING FOR PEOFIT.
33
COST indefinite. It is an expedient
for using up the best part of an unhandy
piece of meat in a way that saves buying
perhaps a first-class steak, while the
pieces that cannot be minced are used to
make soup or stew.
87 Plain Omelet.
Two eggs and one teaspoonful of milk.
Add a pineh of salt, beat in a bowl
enough to thoroughly mix but not make
ir too light, as if the omelet rises like a
souffle it will go down again, so much
the worse.
Pour into a small frying pan, or ome-
let pan, in which is one tablespoonful of
the clear part of melted butter, and fry
like tried eggs. But when partly set
run a knife point around to loosen it and
begin to shake the omelet over to the
farther side of the pan until the thin
further edge forced upward falls back
into the omelet,. When the under side
has a good color, and the middle is near-
ly set, roll the brown side uppermost,
with a knife to help, and slide the omelet
on to a hot dish. Serve immediately
while it is light and soft.
88 Omelet with Parsley.
Mix a tablespoonful of minced parsley
with the omelet mixture while beating it
up. Make as directed in the preceding
article.
89 Omelet with Onions and Parsley.
Mince two table spoonfuls of onion and
fry it in a little lard in a frying-pan with
a plate inverted upon it. In five min-
utes take up the minced onion without
grease and add it to the omelet mixture
made ready with parsley in it; stir up
and fry as directed in plain omelet.
90 OmeleTwith Ham.
Have ready on the table some grated
or minced lean ham in a dish. Pour a
plain omelet of two eggs into the frying-
pan and strew over the surface about
a tablespoonful of the grated ham.
91 Omelet with Cheese.
Make in the same manner as ham om-
elet, with grated cheese instead of ham.
92 Omelet with Tomatoes.
Stew tomatoes down nearly dry, sea-
son with butter, pepper and salt. In-
close a spoonful in the middle of an om-
elet according to the preceeding exam-
ples.
COST of omelets. Omelets are kept
off the bill of fare more on account of the
time and attention required to cook them
properly than because of their cost whk-h
is only from ^c to Ic more than the eggs
alone would be. This is speaking of
hotel and family orders where the added
seasoning^ is but about a tablespoonful,
and not of omelets with asparagus,
points or other rarities. Eggs vary in
price from 6 cents per dozen in country
places to 60 cents in the cities at mid-
winter.
93 Scrambled Eggs.
Not to be beaten up like an omelet
but only stirred about. Put a spoonful
of melted butter or butter and lard into
the small frying-pan, and then two eggs,
sprinkle pepper and salt. Stir the eggs
about a dozen times around with a fork.
Pile in the middle of a little flat dish be-
fore they get cooked too hard.
NOTE. The oeufs (eggs) brouilles aux
truffles, or aux pointes d ' asperges, often
named in menus are scrambled eggs with
truffles and asparagus and similar acces-
sories, the word brouille being of the
same derivation as our broil, signifying
a row, being in a tumult, stirred up,
94 Shirred Eggs.
Some people keep little yellow ware
dishes for this purpose, or other dishes that
cannot be damaged by baking. Spread
with a teaspoon a slight coating of soft
butter over the inside of the dish, drop
in two eggs, not beaten, and set them
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
inside the oven, or, perhaps, on the top
of the range on one side. Try by shak-
ing, and take them from the fire when
the whites are quite cooked. Send in
the same dish set in a flat one.
95 Fried Eggs.
These are the most called-for of any
form in which eggs are cooked and there
is the widest possible difference between
the work of a skilful and unskilful cook
in this particular. The fried eggs that
are a displace to any table are broken as
to the yolks before they go in the pan,
then they have black grease simmering
up all around the edges and running
over their surface, they are cooked near-
ly as hard as leather, they stick to the
pan and cannot, be turned over and final-
ly when they are forcibly pushed into a
dish the same smoky, black grease flows
around them like gravy. That it should
happen so sometimes is nothing to be re-
marked, but these lines are prompted by
amazement that some will go on frying
eggs that way always and habitually
and do not senm to know that anything
is wrong.
To fry the eggs cleanly and hand-
somely, keep the small frying pans al-
ways rubbed clean, if not bright, and
never set them empty upon the range but
keep them warm on the bar along the
front of it or on a hot shelf or a row of
bricks at the back.
96 Poached Eggs.
Also called dropped eggs.
It is no trouble to poach eggs hand-
comely if two or three rules are ob-
served.
Have a roomy vessel with plenty of
water, the frying-pan shape is good, but
it is not deep enough. Have a little salt
in the water. Never let the water boil
furiously after the eejgs are in, as that
breaks them; keep it gently simmering
at the sides.
The eggs break and are wasted be-
causu when first dropped they go heavily
to the hot bottom and there stfcS, to pre-
vent which set the water in motion by
stirring it around with a spoon. The
eggs dropped in are carried around a
moment and the white cooks sufficiently
to prevent adhesion.
Break the eggs carefully into little
dishes and drop into the water one at a
time. Take them out with a perforated
ladle.
Serve either well drained in a small
deep dish and a speck of butter on top
or else laid neatly on a trimmed slice of
buttered toast.
97 Boiled Eggs.
The best furnished hotel kitchens
have a kettle much like a long fish ket-
tle in appearance,and a number of tin bas-
kets,each with its handle , that fi tin side by
side. The kettle is full of boiling water,
and the baskets with different orders of
eggs, can be withdrawn without disturb-
ing the others. One hand is detailed to
attend to the egg boiling, and he has
sand glasses to time them by, or a clock,
or both. At ordinary levels two or three
minutes for soft-boiled and four or five
for bard-boiled is the rule, but at great
altitudes in the Rocky Mountains as
much as eight minutes is the least time
for hard-boiled eggs. The low point
at which water boils is the reason for the
difference.
98-Fried Mush.
Take the pan of cold mush that was
set away over night, hold over the fire a
minute and shake it on the table. Cut
a quart of mush into 8 pieces. Roll
them hi cracker meal mixed with flour,
then in milk, then in the cracker meal
mixture again, let them lie in it to get a
good coating. Drop into a frying pan
half full of clear drippings made very
hot first, and let fry light brown.
COST Mush 3, breading 4, fat or lard
4; 11 cents, or from 1 to IJc each per-
son.
COOKING FOB PROFIT.
99 Fried Mush Egged and Breaded.
1 quart cooked mash.
1 pound cracker meal.
2eggP.
pound fat to 17.
Mix 3 tablespoonfuls milk or water
with the eggs and beat up. Roll the
pieces of mush in it and then in the crack-
er meal and fry a handsome brown in hot
lard hi a sauce pan deep enough to im-
merse them.
COST of material Neither the cracker
meal nor the lard will be all used but an
allowance should be made for waste or
deterioration of what is left over. Mush
3, eggs 4, cracker-meal 8, lard 8; 23c
for 8 to 12 orders say 2Jc each person.
100 Corned-Beef Hash.
Some of the worst blunders the half-
made cooks commit are in making hash.
Corned-beef hash can be made a real
delicacy, good to look at with no appear-
ance of mystery about it, the pink meat
fair and cleanly in the smooth and clean
potato, and good to taste being more
tempting to a fickle appetite than solid
beefsteak. It is not necessarily a very
cheap dish although it is convenient as a
means of using a remainder of corned
beef to make room for a fresh boiling.
Th attempt to make hash very cheap
by making it the general receptacle for
ail sorts of pieces is a penny wise and
pound-foolish proceeding, for nobody
wants it and it is thrown away at last
and through that and other blunders it
has come to be at last that hash cannot
even be given away at a free lunch. The
writer of these lines has seen the officers
of the finest vessels afloat send a special
request to the kitchen for dishes of the
deck hands' fresh made hot and savory
corned-beef hash for then: breakfast in
preference to all that was upon the table,
and the passengers who bad made its
acquaintance followed up the hint and
found out the place where hash was good.
There is no elaborate receipt to follow
these remarks, the necessity in the case
is not to put things hi, but to keep things
out. Keep out the cold turnips. Keep
out the cold mashed potatoes even,if thev
are not uncommonly good and fresh. It
has been shown a little way back in regard
to the cost of potatoes, that two large
ones are worth lees than half a cent, and
the water added when they are mashed
cheapens them still more. Mashed tur-
nip it still more worthless. Keep out
the black and hard scraps and ends of
meat, they will give a color and appear-
ance and stale taste that will cause the
mess to be thrown out, the good to be
lost with the bad. Keep out the onions.
This is the last thing that will be agreed
to. Cooks of hotels have been known
to quit the house rather than they would
leave the onions out of the hash* But
the people who live in the expensive class
of hotels will leave the dish alone if you
do not, and if they despise it who else is
going to bring hash in fashion again? It
is in the interest of true economy to
make hash popular, because it uses up
corned beef, which is too plentiful. To
make ''dry hash" that will be eaten. .and
enjoyed, take:
1 pressed-in cup minced comed beef.
4 medium potatoes 1 pound.
J a level teaspoon good black pepper.
1 level teaspoon salt.
1 ounce fresh butter.
A spoonful of hot water.
Shave off aU discolored outside of
meat. Chop as fine as pepper-corns or
wheat in a wooden bowl with a chopping
knife, add the pepper, salt and butter to
it. Pare the potatoes raw, steam or boil
them, put them to the meat boiling hot
and mash together. It is not of much
consequence whether it is to be baked or
not but it looks better browned over and
can be served hottest that way. Leave
out the butter when there is plenty of fat
to the meat. Those who study to make
this almost forgotten dish good take care
to corn fat pieces of brisket and calves
udder for the purpose.
36
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
COST of material J
cooked meat equal to 1
potatoes 1, butter 2;
8 family or hotel orders.
pound selectee
r pound raw9 ,
12c a quart or
101 Pork Brown Stew.
1 pound coarse cut of fresh pork.
4 medium potatoes.
1 tablespoonful minced onion.
2 or three leaves green sage or a pinch
of ground herbs.
1 level teaspoon minced red pepper.
2 of salt.
1 cup fresh roast meat fat for frying.
3 tablespoons flour.
The fat to fry in is only used tempo-
rarily and does not lose anything. Let
it be especially saved from the roast meat
pan for the brown breakfast stews, and
have no unpleasant taste about it. Put
it on in a small deep pauce pan to get
hot. Gut the meat in pieces, throw two
or three at a time into the fat when it is
hot enough to hiss, let them get the
sama sort of brown outside that roast
meat has, but quickly; take out with a
ekimmer. When all the pieces are
browned in that way, pour the fat back
in your jar, put the pieces of meat back
in the same saucepan , add 3 cups of wa-
ter, the potatoes pared and cut in halves,
and the seasoning, and stew until the po-
tatoes are done. Mix the flour in a cup
with water and thicken the stew with it.
COST of material Pork 10, potatoes
1, flour and seasonings 1; 12e for 8 fam-
ily portions.
102 Wheat Muffins Best.
2 rounded-up cups light bread dough
little over a pound.
4 tablespoons meltei butter 2 ounces.
Same of milk or cream.
1 teaspoon sugar.
3 yolks of eggs or 1 yolk and 1 egg.
Pinch of salt.
J cup of flour.
Take the piece of dough from your
light bread or rolls that was set to rise
over night. Two hours before breakfast
work the butter, sugar and milk in ard
set in a warm place a few minutes. Then
beat in eggs and floar and keep beating
against the side of the pan until the bat-
ter is very elastic and smooth. Let rise
in a warm place about an hour.
The muffin rings should be two inches
across and one inch deep. Grease them,
set in a greased pan, half fill with the
batter, which should be thin enough to
settle down smooth, but thick enough
not to run under the rings; let rise half
an hour, bake ten minutes in a hot oven.
103 Muffins from the Beginning.
When there is no dough set for other
purposes the muffins can be made from
the beginning with:
3 level cups flour.
1 cup warm water and yeast mixed.
5 tablespoons melted butter.
I teaspoon sugar.
Same of salt. *
3 yolks or 1 yolk and 1 egg.
Mix up too soft to handle yet not thin
enough to run; beat well and set in a
warm corner to rise. Beat extremely
well in the morning, use in muffin rings
and bake.
COST of material Flour and yeast 3,
eggs, sugar and salt 4; 7 cents for 12
muffins.
104 Buckwheat Cakes.
2 cups buckwheat flour.
2 cups water and yeast mixed.
1 level teaspoon salt.
1 table poon golden syrup.
2 tablespoons melted lard.
Make a sponge or batter over night of
the warm water,yeast and flour. In the
norning add the enriching ingredients;
beat up well,and bake thin cakes on a
griddle.
Most people like buckwheat cakes
with a little cornmeal mixed in the bat-
ter. Eggs are not needed except when
accidentally the batter ferments too much,
when an egg will bind and make the
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
37
cake? easier to bake. Serve with but-
ter and syrup.
After the first mixing with yeast some
of the batter may be saved and used in-
stead of yeast for several succeeding
days. A pinch of carbonate of soda
may then be needed to be mixed in the
batter in the morning, but cakes made
that way, for some reason, are more pal-
atable than with sweet yeast care being
taken to proportion the soda to the de-
gree of slight sourness.
COST of material Buckwheat 2, yeast
1, syrup 1, lard 1; 5 cents for 1 quart
batter or 24 cakes or 8 plates. To eat
with them, 8 ounces butter 20, J pint
syrup 6; 28 cents total 33 cents 8 plates.
NOTE. As it is seen the cost of the
buckwheat is next to nothing, but as the
butter and syrup is nearly all, it is ob-
vious that to whatever extent the lavish
use o^ butter can be checked, a saving
will be effected. The alleged indigesti-
bility of buckwheat should be laid to tiie
common extravagance in butter and
syrup. To such as are proof against
dyspepsia, the poeple who lead active
out-door lives,the fat from fried sausages
is more relishing than butter with buck-
wheat cakes.
These and all other batter cakes are
made more costly than they ought to be,
as well as unhealthy in many places, by
the wasteful way of ladling great spoon-
fuls of melted lard on to the griddle to
bake, or rather fry, the cakes in. A
pound of lard does not last long that way
and it is unnecessary. Cakes can be
baked on any sort of a griddle if it is on-
ly rubbed md polished with a cloth every
baking, but if greased at all a piece of
bacon or ham rind or of suet answers
every purpose and the cost is scarcely
appreciable.
Sweet Tomato Pickle.
Seven pounds ripe tomatoes, peeled
and sliced ; three and one half pounds
sugar; one ounce cinnamon and mace
mixed ; one ounce cloves ; one quart
of vinegar. Mix all together and
stew one hour.
Picklette. .
Four large crisp cabbages, cut fine ;
one quart onions, chopped fine; two
of vinegar, or enough to cover the
cabbage; two pounds brown sugar,
two tablespoonfuls of ground mustard,
two tablespoonfuls of black pepper,
two tablespoonfuls turmeric, two
tablespoonsfuls celery seed, one table-
spoonful allspice, one tabiespoonful of
mace, one of alum, pulverized. Pack
the cabbage and onions in alternate
layers, with a little salt between them.
Let them stand until next day. Then
scald the vinegar, sugar, and spice
together, and pour over the cabbage
and onions. Do this three mornings
in succession. On the fourth put all
together over the fire and heat to a
boil. Let them boil five minutes.
When cold pack them in small jars.
It is fit for use as soon as cool and
keeps well.
Turnovers.
Roll out some puff-paste and cut in
oblongshaped pieces. Put some finely
cut cheese on the paste, turn over,
and pinch down the edges and bake.
38
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
HOTEL DINNER.
105 Ox Tail Soup.
2 J quarts of soup stock.
1 ox tail.
1 small carrot.
1 turnip.
1 onion.
Celery, Lay leaf, cloves, salt and pep-
per.
Make the stock by boiling a beef shank
in 6 quarts of water several hours, until
it is reduced one-half,
While the stock is boiling take a car-
rot, turnip, onion and stalk of celery,
and, with any kind of a round cutter or
an apple-corer and knife, cut enough loz-
enge shapes to fill a cup with the mixed
sorts. Throw a few of the remaining
scraps into the boiling stock for season-
ing, and a bay leaf and 3 cloves.
Saw or chop the ox tail into thin round
slices and steep them an hour in cold
water. The ox tail must stew at least
2 or 3 hours to be eatable and so far
dissolved as to enrich the soup, and it
may be done either in the stock boiler,
and the pieces picked out afterward to
go in the soup plates, or may be stewed
in some of the stock in a separate sauce-
pan, whichever way may be most con-
venient.
At last strain the specified amount of
stock clear into the soup pot. Boil the
shapes of vegetables in water by them-
selves \ hour, then drain off and put
them into the soup, also the ox tail sli-
ces. Add brown butter and flour thick-
ening in small quantity, let the poup sim-
mer slowly until it becomes smooth and
clear again, and skim until all the fat is
removed. Season with salt and cayenne.
Serve a slice or two of the ox tail and
some of the vegetables in each plate.
When a soup like the foregoing has
not a clear syrup-like sort of thickness or
body, but is dull, like flour gravy, it
may be cleared by longer simmering and
adding more stock with Pome cold tomato
juice, or lemon juice or even cold water,
and skimming from the side
If not already light brown add a
spoonful of burnt sugar caramel.
COST of material Beef shank for stock
10, oxtail 8, vegetables, seasonings,
thickening 4; 22 cents for 10 half pint
plates, or say, 2c plate or 4c pint
bowl.
106-Fried Bass With Bacon.
Scale and clean the fish, chop off the
fins, and if small cook them with-
out cutting; if large, split them length-
wise and cut across making four.
Pepper and salt'the pieces, roll them
in flour and let lie in it until the last;
drop them into a pan of hot lard and let
fry from five minutes upwards according
to size.
Fry a slice of breakfast bacon for each
piece of fish in another pan and send in
the bacon on the fish and a garnish of
parsley and plain boiled potatoes.
NOTE There are several varieties of
bass and for some reason hardly to be
explained hotel stewards seem to be
proudest of displaying striped bass in
their best meuus. The black baas is,
however, the favorite with restaurant
customers and it seems fair to infer that
it has some good qualities which make it
so. It is certainly the favorite with an-
glers. In weight it ranges from one
pound to five. Only from 2 to 4 ounces
need to be served as a dinner order of
the cooked fish, and a spoonful of potat
toes in some form should go in on the
same plate. For a restaurant order a
fish weighing just one ponnd is the most
satisfactory all around .
COST ^ass 24c for 2 pounds, 8 oun-
ces bacon 8, potatoes 8 orders 2, lard to
Ty 2; 36c for 8 dishes or 4J cents each;
botel size.
107-Boiled Beef with Horseradish.
A fat, unctuous, gristly piece of the
brisket or "plate" is the best for this, 01
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
39
the rib ends that are sawed off a rib roast.
Boil it slowly for at least three hours;
have a little salt in the water (which is
afterwards to be used to make soup.)
Grate or finely scrape down a stick of
horseradish, put it in a bowl with vine-
gar and water enough to cover, and use
it for sauce.
COST of material >Beef 2 pounds 12,
loses one-third -horseradish 2, mashed
potatoes 2; 16c for 8 diahes, 2c per dish.
108 Roast Sucking Pig.
The pig will be ready trussed when it
comes from the butcher's, with the toes
inserted in slits cut in the skin. Lay it
on its back and drive the point of a sharp
knife down through the bone of the back,
dividing it convenient for carving, and
also detach the ribs along one side, and
loosen the inner joints of the hips and
legs, which can be done without spoiling
the outside appearance of the pig. Wash
and wipe it dry, stuff with bread dressing
containing sage and onions, and sew up
with twine. Roast about two hours,cov-
ered with a sheet of greased paper for part
of the time,and baste with butter to get a
fine transparent brown color on the skin
at last. Make gravy in the pan to pour
around the pig in the dish. Serve ap-
ple sauce separately in a sauce dish. It
is a time honored custom to insert a
small apple in the mouth of the pig be-
fore sending it to table.
NOTE Pigs weighing from 30 to 4C
pounds are more frequently furnished to
hotels than the very small ones, and, as
they are not sent to table whole are con-
sidered more satisfactory. They are too
large to be cooked whole but are split in
halves, carefully hacked through the
bones inside according to the directions
for sucking pig, and basted arid crispec
light brown in the same manner. Serve
with apple sauce.
109 Apple Sauce for Meats.
Pure good ripe apples and slice them
nto a bright saucepan. Add water
enough to come up level with the apples
nd stew with a lid on till done about
thirty minutes . While they are stewing
throw in a littlte butter. Mash at last
with the back of a spoon. No sugar.
COST of material 10 pound pig $2,00,
pie sauce 7; $2,17 say
lers not less than lOc per
stuffing 10, apple sauce 7; $2,17 say
for 20 to 25 orden
dish.
NOTE Pigs often cost a much larger
amount than their weight at 20c per
pound would be, five dollars being often
obtained at Christmas and other holiday
seasons. The number of dishes is some-
what dependent upon skill in carving.
In any case, however, this is an expen-
sive dish.
110 Chicken Pie, Plain.
When chicken pie or any similar dish
is written in a menu as of some partic-
ular style, it, of course, carries the im-
plication that there are more ways than
one. A very small variation or addi-
tion of vegetables, mushrooms or eggs
and wine may suffice to change the
name. It is only necessary to say here
that one way by which young chickens,
squirrels, rabbits etc., are partly fried in
butter before being covered with a crust,
and the gravy in the pan is made rich
and light brown, may be found detailed
elsewhere for pigeon pie, and the follow-
ing is the other principal method, or
country style.
1 large fowl or 2 chickens.
1 slice of fat salt pork 2 ounces.
1 large potato.
1 teaspoonful of minced onion*
1 of black pepper.
1 of salt.
1 pound of pie crust.
2 tablespoonfuls of flour .
A little pareely.
The salt pork is ouly a seasoning, and
mav be dispensed with or substituted
with butter or the fat of the fowls.
40
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
Cut the fowl in 8 pieces if large, firs
dividing it in half through the back anc
breast, chop each side in 4, taking a
piece out between the leg and the wing
Cook the gizzard and heart with the fowl
but leave out the liver, which is apt to
impart its flavor to the whole dish. Boi
the meat till tender, which may take
anywhere from 1 hour to 4, according to
the kind of fowl. It does not make much
difference how old the fowl is if it be boil-
ed accordingly with seasonings added
It will make the liquoi rich as jelly after
a while.
Half an hour before taking the fow]
from the fire put in the potato, cut in
pieces, and afterward thicken the liquor
with flour and water and mix in some
chopped parsley.
Tuna it into a baking pan,dredge a little
more ulack pepper over the top and a lit-
tle flour over that, and then cover with
plain pie paste and bake it hour.
COST of material Fowl 40, pork 3,
vegetables and seasonings 1, paste 5,
49 cents for 8 dishes, or 6 or 7c per
dish.
111 Boiled Kale or Seakale.
Wash free from grit, tie it in bunches,
trim off the root end and boil it in salted,
water, like winter spinach, about
twenty minutes. Drain in a colander.
Pour a spoonful of butter sauce over
each bunch in the di?h.
112 Mashed Potatoes.
Being such a common and easy article
it is ofteu the most neglected and goes
to the table dark and full of lumps,
when it ought to be as smooth as if
pressed through a sieve. Butter and
milk to mash with are good additious in
their way, but vigorous pounding of the
potatoes with a little salt and hot water
or perhaps the clear fat from the top of
the soup will make very fine mashed po-
tatoes when neither of those luxuries can
be afforded. The longer the mashiug
is continued provided the potato is kept
hot at the same time, the whiter it be-
comes. It is an improvement, to bake
the mashed potato in a pie pan, brushing
the top over with milk to cause it to
brown easily.
113 Bread Custard Pudding.
2 cups-pressed in-fine bread crumbs.
2 cups milk.
1 ounce butter small egg size.
1 tablespoon sugar.
Nutmeg or grated or minced lemon
peel.
1 egg
Crumble the bread fine either by
chopping or grating; grate half of the
rind of a lemon into it or a little nutmeg.
Mix the milk with the egg and sugar;
melt the butter and mix in and pour the
mixture over the bread crumbs in a but-
tered pudding-pan or bowl and bake
about twenty-five minutes. Various
changes can be made by adding raisins,
currants or citron to this pudding. The
fruit must be sprinkled in after the pud-
ding is in the baking pan. It will sink
if stirred. Serve a sauce with the pud-
ding.
COST of material 11 cents for one
quart or 8 portions. With sauce 2c
each order.
114 Rhubarb Pie.
Rhubarb should be peeled and cut in
two-inch lengths, and cooked with only
water enough to cover the bottom of the
settle, with half a pound of brown su-
gar to each pound spread over the top
and the steam shut in. It burns easily,
and should be cooked at the side of the
range or set upon a brick, till the sugar
dissolves with the juice to form a syrup.
Line the pie pans with puff paste, made
not very rich, fill with the stewed rhu-
barb and place broad strips of paste, cut
with a paste jagger across and bake; or
use tne plain pie paste and bake with a
op crust.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
41
COST of material Rhubarb 5, sugar
6, crust 6: 15c. for 2 pies, cut in 8 or
10.
115-The Stock Boiler.
Where the best management prevails
and the work goes on like machinery,
one wheel within another, there is a reg-
ular time of day to set the stock boiler
on, it may be in the evening to simmer
till the last, and then the liquor strained
off is set away till the next day, or it
may be early in the morning. The boil-
er should be larger than the ordinary
stove pots. Put into it a gallon of clear
cold water.
The meats to be cooked during the
day are trimmed of all the tough and
gristley ends, such as are sure to be
thrown away if fried, broiled or roasted,
and all the bones are taken from the
meat that can be without detriment to
the joint, and these scraps, after washing
in clear water, are put into the boiler.
Then, if there is a soup bon beside, or
a chicken to be boiled, or a leg of mut-
ton it will be so much the richer stock.
Some days there will be reason to choose
which kind of soup to make, according
to the contents of the stock boiler, which
is a more economical way to look at it
than if the boiler was to be furnished to
suit the soup. A cream soup, for ex-
ample, may be made when the stock is
thin, and when it is rich as jelly make
beef gravy soup or mnck turtle.
The available meat being in next,
throw in a little vegetable seasoning,
such as a small onion and piece of tur-
nip and carrot. But these are not indis-
pensible, for the soup will be seasoned af-
terwards.
Let the bjiler heat slowly and when
at last it boils, skim carefully two or
three times, put the lid on and let sim-
mer 4 or 5 hours, when there will prob-
ably be 2 quarts of rich stock ready
when strained, to be used in soup or to
make gravies and sauces.
The strainer fine enough for ordinary
use is made of perforated tin, or a pan
with a perforated t ; xi bottom. Strike
the edge of the pan rapidly to make the
soup go through.
116 - Celery Cream Soup.
3 pints soup stock.
1 pint rich milk.
Outside stalks of celery, about 4.
1 small onion, minced.
Small piece of lean cooked ham.
1 tablespoon flour.
Butter size of an egg.
Salt and white pepper.
Boil the soup stock with the onion and
scrap of ham hi it for flavor. Cut up the
celery about enough to fill a large cup
in dice shapes, and boil it ten minutes in
water; then strain the water away. Mix
the butter and flour together, and stir
them into the boiling stock to thicken it
slighty, then strain it into another sauce-
pan and put in the parboiled celery and
the pint of milk. Season with pepper
and salt to taste. Let it simmer ten min-
utes or more after the celery is in.
Mince a piece of green leaf of celery
very fine, and sprinkle it from a knifw
point into the soup. This makes six or
seven plates.
Butter and flour for thickening ij the
orthodox article (roux), but should tho
butter fail to arrive punctually at the
time the flour can be mixed with a little
water instead. The stock used should
have been skimmed free from fat, if not
the soup must be.
COST 21c for
plate.
2 quarts, or 3c per
117 Boiled Red Snapper Shrimp
Sauce.
There should be a proper fish kettle
for boiling a fish whole, having a p vibr-
ated false bottom or drainer, that can be
lifted out with the fish upon it when
done. Where there is no such article
the best substitute is a common milk pan
42
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
of large size. Cover it with another pan
that the fish may get steamed if not
quite covered.
Choose a small fish, scale it, draw, i
chop off the fins,wash and wipe it dry on
a cloth.
Half fill the pan with water and put
in a little salt, vinegar, a small onion |
and four cloves stuck in it and half a bay I
leaf. When it boils put in the fish and |
simmer it at the side of the range about |
halt an hour. Then pour off the water, !
take the skin off the upper side, slide the .
fish on to its dish, if to be served whole, |
and pour over it some shrimp sauce. But
if served individually it may be di-
vided with a fish slice in the pan and
sauce poured over in the plates. Small
and tend r fish, like fresh mackerel, are
best rolled up in a pudding cloth and
boiled in plan salted water, then care-
fully unrolled onto the dish.
118 Shrimp Sauce.
1 pint of clear broth or water.
Butter size of an egg.
1 tablespoonful of flour rather large.
Yolk of 1 egg.
Salt and pepper.
\ can Barataria shrimps.
Stir the flour and most of the butter
together over the fire. When they bub-
ble begin adding the hot broih or water,
and stir it till cooked and thick about
two minutes longer. Then drop in the
egg yolk and beat, and next the remain-
ing small piece of butter and beat till it is
melted. Season slightly and put in the
shrimps. They are already cooked,
119 Duchesse Potatoes.
Usually served with fish, on the same
plate. They are little cakes of mashed
potatoes, in fancy shapes or plain. Take
four steumt'd potatoi-s and mash them
with an ounce of butter, the yolk of an
egg and salt. Spread on a pie plate, brush
over with the yolk of an egg mixed with
a ppoouful of milk, cut in pieces of any
shape, take up the pieces with a knife
point, place them on a greased baking
pan and bake a nice color on top.
COST of fish with sauce etc. 2 pounds
fish 40, seasoning 1, shrimps 15, butter
eggs and seasonings 3, potatoes 8 por-
tions 2 61 cents for 8 to 12 portions,
or about 7c an order.
120 Larded Filet of Beef.
This is nothing if not neat, uniform,
precise and workmanlike in appearance.
There must be a pound of fat bacon for
larding, cold and firm, so that it can be
cut aright. Cut the slices a quarter
inch thick, cut these in lengths of 1J
inches and then into strips all precisely
alike and as thick as a common pencil.
Procure the filet or tenderloin of beef
with the fat on it, that is with the coat-
ing of suet that covers the upper side of
it, and shave that down until the cover-
ing of fat is about as thick as a beefsteak
all over it. Then raise the edge of the
fat at one side, skinning the filet, so
to speak, and lay the sheet of fat over
on the other side without cutting it off.
This is to have the sheet of fat attached
ready to cover over the filet again after
it is larded with strips of bacon. Draw
the point of a sharp knife across and
across the skin inside the fat, to score it
so that it will not draw up in cooking.
Trim off the thin end of the- filet and
round off the thick end. C >mmence at
the thick end with the larding. Insert
a piece of bacon in the end of the larding
needle and draw it through the
top parts of the meat pinched up
with the left thumb and finger for the
purpose, one end of the strip of bacon BO
inserted will be left leaning backward,
the. other forward, on the surface. In-
sert 6 or more of these strips in a row
across. Begin the next row so that the
strips will come alternately between
those of the first, and the exposed ends
will cross the others, and so continue,
with the regularity of stitching cloth, to
the other end. Cover the larded filet
with the sheet of fat. Make a long and
COOKING FOB PROFIT.
narrow baking pan hot in the oven, with a
table spoonful of salt and a cap of drip-
pings in it, and enough water to keep the
bottom from burning. Put in also a
slice of turnip, carrot and onion, and a
piece of celery. Have the oven hot,
put in the filet, and roast it with the
fat, covering it half an hour; then take
off the fat, baste the filet with the con-
tents of the pan, and let cook fifteen
miuutes longer, by which time the sur-
face of the meat should be brown, and
bacon strips brown too, without being
burnt at the ends.
Filets of beef vary in weight and
thickness, and the time above given is
only a guide to the average. Unless
specially ordered otherwise, the thick
part of the filet should cut slightly rare
in the middle, while the thinner portion
is well done.
In carving, the filet should be sliced
across vertically because it is a mass of
strings of meat lying side by side, and
if cut slantingly the slices begin to be
stringy and coarse. A filet that is to
be braised along with herbs, spices, veg-
etables, wine, etc., is larded with strips
of bacon or fat pork that pass clear
through from one side to the other diag-
onally, so that the slices cut across when
done, show the larding all through the
meat.
COST of filet 1 pounds $1,20, pork
15 (not all used but culled and spoiled),
seasonings paid for with drippings; $1.35
for 3 pounds net, or 15 to 20 slices or 7c
an order
121 Mushrooms Stewed in Wine.
Larded filet of beef with mushrooms
or, aux champignons , is the almost uni-
versal dish at small party dinners. The
common method of preparing the mush-
rooms has been described at No. 48, but
if a finished sauce is required use half
brown beef gravy and half mushroom
sauce, add a bastingspoon of wine and
simmer at the side of the range and skim
until clear, then if not thick enough boil
it down rapidly, and after that add the
mushrooms, cayenne, and a spoonful of
sherry.
122 Brown Gravy.
Before serving the filet, or any roast
meat let the gravy in the pan dry down
until the grease can be poured off clear,
while the glaze remains adhering to the
pan; pour in water to dissolve it, and
when it has boiled add a trifle of brown
flour thickening if it seems to need
it; strain through a fine strainer; serve
some in the dish with the filet, the rest
in a sauceboat.
123 Brown Flour for Thickening.
While butter and flour mixed in equal
parts and baked brown makes the best
thickening for gravies, plain browned
flour does nearly as well and is more de-
sirable when the butter is not very good.
Put some sifted flour dry into a frying
pan and bake deep brown in the oven.
Use it at the rate of a tablespoonful to
a cupful of liquid. Wet with water the
same as raw flour, before stirring it in.
It may be kept in a can always ready.
124 Stuffed Tomatoes.
6 or 8 large tomatoes.
1 cupful fine bread crumbs.
1 rounded tablespoonful of minced
onion.
1 heaping tablespoonful minced fat
bacon, or butter in equal amount.
Slight grating of nutmeg.
Cayenne and salt.
Do not peel the tomatoes, but take a
slice off the rough stem side and scoop
out the inside with a tablespoon into a
colander, so that the juice may partly
drain away. Cut a thin slice or two of
bread and mince across to make a cup-
ful. Mix the crumbs and tomato pulp
together, bacon, onion, very little salt,
if any, pepper, and touch of nutmeg or
mace.
Fill the tomatoes with the mixture
rounded up on top, bake in a small pan
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
44.
well buttered, with a greased sheet of
paper over, one-half hour. Then mois-
ten over the tops with the back of a
epoon dipped in butter, dredge fine
crumbs on top and bake again without
cover until they are well browned.
COST 1 to 2 cents each according to
season. One of the best substitutes for
mushrooms with filet of beef.
125-Egg Plant Plain Fried-(Sauteed.)
Slice the egg plant, without paring,
into five or six, throwing away only the
end parings. Boil the slices in salted
water a few minutes to extract the strong
taste, drain them, and while still moist
dip both sides in flour, then fry brown
in a fiying pan with a little drippings
They are served as a vegetable, like
fried parsnips, etc.
COST Ic each person.
126 Chicken Croquettes.
1 young hen lightly roasted.
cup mushrooms.
1 small cup butter.
Same of flour.
1 cup cream.
Same of broth or water.
A slight grating of nutmeg.
A little lemon juice.
Pepper and salt.
Cut the meat of the roast fowl into the
smallest possible dice, mince the mush-
rooms and add, sprinkle with a teas-
poonful of mixed pepper and salt, grate
a little nutmeg and squeeze a lemon
over it.
Make cream sauce by stirring the but-
ter and flour together in a sauce pan and
adding the broth and cream when it be-
gins to bubble, and when the sauce is
ready moisten the meat with it, stir it up
well and set it away to become cold.
' Then make out in rolls about the size of
a finger, roll in flour, then egg, then
in cracker crumbs and fry in hot lard.
Pile in the dish and garnish with fried
parsley.
COST of material fowl 50, butter 8,
mushrooms 10, cream 6, seasonings 2
eggs, breading and frying 6, 82; 16 to
20 croquettes cost 4c to 5c each.
ftoTE The above is the way to make
croquettes of the best quality, but a
much cheaper will be found elsewhere
described, and half the quantity can be
made with the remains of fowl left over.
127 Stewed Cucumbers.
Pare three or four young and good cu-
cumbers, and cut them in thick slices,
boil these in water, with a little salt and
vinegar in it the same as for egg-plant
for about fifteen minutes, then pour away
the water. Make a cupful of cream
sauce in another saucepan, and, when
ready 3 heat in the yolks of two eggs and
a tablespoonful of vinegar. Pour this
yellow sauce over the slices of cucumber,
after they have been placed neatly in
their dish.
128 Angelica Punch.
2 cups California angelica wine.
2 cups hot water a pint.
1 cup sugar pound.
1 cup stemmed raisins J pound.
1 lemon.
2 whites of eggs and 2 tablespoonful
of powdered sugar to beat in.
Chop the raisins, grate half the rind
the lemon, squeeze in all of the juice,
pour the hot water to them, add the su-
gar, and stir until it is all dissolved.
Strain the flavored syrup thus obtained
into a freezer, and rub the most of the
raisin pulp through as well. Add the
wine and freeze. When nearly frozen
whip the two whites and the powdered
sugar together till thick, add them to
the punch and finish freezing. It is like
cream. Serve in stem glasses.
COST of material wine 25, sugar 5,
raisins 10, lemon 2, whites and suar 3,
ice and salt 12; 57 cents for 2 quarts
(when beaten) of punch, or 16 glasses or
more 3 cents a glass.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
45.
129 Boiled Young Ducks.
Having picked and singed them, split
them down the back and draw them. Cut
off the neck and feet. Wash them quick-
ly in cold water and wipe dry, and flat-
ten them slightly to broiling shape with
a tap of the cleaver. Lay the duck on
a plate, dredge with salt and pepper and
brush over both Fides with butter. Broil
on the gridiron over clear coals, the in-
side first, about 15 minutes. Serve on
a hot dish, with a border of small pieces
of toast or green peas with currant jelly
or a quartered lemon, or with the folio w-
sauce.
130 Or an ga Sauce For Meats.
1 orange.
1 cupful of brown sauce.
cupful of claret.
A little cayenne.
Shave off very thinly the yellow rind
of about a quarter ef the orange and
boil it in the brown sauce about 10 min-
utes. Gut half the orange into small
slices and remove the pith and seeds.
Strain the brown sauce from the peel,
throw into it the orange slices, squeeze
in the juice of the remaining half, add
the claret and cayenne, let it boil up and
skim off the film that will rise.
If there is no brown sauce on hand
soup stock can be used and thickened
with a spoonful of flour worked in a
small piece of soft butter. Pour the
sauce under the ducks in the dish and
dispose the pieces of orange around them.
COST. 4 young ducks, $1 ; 1 can
peas or sauce equivalent, 20 8 persons,
15 cents each.
131-Crab Salad.
6 boiled crabs, common size.
1 cup finely minced white cabbage.
cup salad dressing.
>ick the meat out of the crabs, cut
all that can be cut into pieces of even
size and rub the rest smooth in salad
dressing, adding a little mustard . Mix
cabbage and dressing thoroughly, and
he crab meit mix in lightly, without
Breaking the pieces. Fill 8 crab shells
with the salad and place them on a dish
previously prepared with a bed of cress
or other green.
COST. 6 crabs, 30; dressing, 4; 34
cents for 8 orders.
132 Apple Turnovers.
Sometimes served as a " sweet en-
tree; " more suitable to put in place of
pie; best for luncheon, pic-nic parties,
and for sale; a favorite form of pastry
everywhere.
Make the flaky pie paste with about
12 ounces of butter to a pound of flour,
roll it out to a thin sheet and cut out
flats nearly as large as saucers, with the
lid of a baking powder can or similar
cutter.
Place a good spoonful of dry stewed
apple in the middle of each piece of paste
and double over iii half-moon shape.
Press the two edges together and crimp
them with the thumb and finger. When
the baking pan is full of the turnovers,
brush them over with egg-and-water,
and dredge granulated sugar on top.
Bake slowly till they are crisp, glazed
and of a fine reddish brown color. These
large sizes have generally to be cut in
two. They contain more fruit and are
better eating when made small.
COST OP MATEBIAL. Four turnovers
crust 4, apple marmalade, 2, egg and
sugar glaze, 2; 8 c. or 1 cent each order.
133 Puff Paste.
1 pound of cold flour.
15 ounces of cold butter.
1 cupfiil of ice water.
Get quite ready to make the paste be-
fore you begin, that it may be done
quickly. It will not, perhaps, belightand
good if allowed to stand long in a warm
room. Leave out a handful of flour to
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
46.
dust with. Make a hollow in the mid-
dle of the rest in a pan, pour in the ice-
water and mix up gradually with the
fingers. Turn the paste on the table
double and press a little to make it,
smooth. Roll it out to half an inch
thickness, pound the butter with a potato
masher to make it pliable, drop half of
it in lumps all over the sheet of paste,
gift a very little flour over, press down the
lumps of butter, fold over in three and
turn the broad side toward you. Roll
out again, drop the rest of the butter as
before, fold in three and count that one.
Roll out evenly with plenty of flour to
prevent sticking, fold over in three and
count that two. Do the same four times
more, making six folds (beside the first
one not counted) and it is ready for use,
but should be 'allowed to stand awjrile
in the refrigerator to lose the tendency
it has when first made to draw up out of
shape. *
If you have a good refrigerator at
hand tha puff paste will be the better for
being set in it after the third folding and
allowed to remain ^ hour and then taken
out and finished rolling, but, it not, the
only way to have the paste good is to
start with cold material and make it and
bake it so quickly that it has not time to
warm and melt in the meantime.
COST of material butter 23, flour 3;
26 cents for 2J pounds. Makes 5 pies
with single bottom crusts, or 3 covered
dependingjapon the size or 20 turnovers
or 20 to 25 tarts in patty pans, or 10 to
16 tartlets like the following.
NOTE Lard of a solid, firm sort will
make puff paste that is quite as good
as that made with butter, and that rises
nearly as high in the baking; and the '
cost is reduced according to the differ-
ence in price per pound. But soft lard
cannot be used for this purpose. The
best common flaky paste is made with
half lard and half butter, with salt
sprinkled over the lard, the butter put
into the dough first, and the whole of
the ingredients kept as cold as possible.
134 Cherry Tartlets.
1 heaping cup ripe cherries.
I level cup light brown sugar.
IJ'xmnds puff paste.
Set the cherries on to cook in a smalt
saucepan with a bastingspoon of water,
and sugar spread over the top. Put on
the lid and let simmer slowly then set
them away to become cold. The fruit
for this purpose should be rich with a
thick strong syrup, because only a small
quantity is used and it should not run
out of the tartlets.
Roll the puff paste to inch thick, cut
out with a biscuit cutter, and cut the
middle of each part way through with a
smaller cutter. Put them in a hot oven
and when they are risen open the door
partly and let them dry well done. Take
out the middle piece with a knife point
and fill the tarttets with the stewed fruit.
COST about 2c each, or according to
whether fresh or cannnd frut is used and
the price.
135 Tipsy Pudding.
Sheets of sponge cake partly saturated
with rum and set in a pan of cold boiled
custard, For the cake make this:
\ cupful of sugar 4 ounces.
6 tablespoonfuls of water.
1 cup of flour 4 ounces .
1 teaspoonful baking powder.
Separate the eggs the whites in a
bowl or dish, the yolks in the mixing
pan. Put the sugar and water in with
the yolks, and beat them till they are a
thick yellow froth. Mix the powder in
the flour, add that and stir up well.
Whip the whites firm, add them last.
Grease and flour 2 jelly cake pans, di-
vide the mixture into them and bake of
a very light color. When done place
the sheets of cake one on the other in a
pan and pour cup of rum or brandy
into them with a teaspoon. Have ready
2 cups of custard and pour around. Cut
in 8 and serve like pudding and sauce.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
47.
COST of material sugar and flour 3,
;gs 4, powder 1, rum 12, custard. 9,
to, for 8 dishes 3 or 4 cents an order.
136 Boiled Custard.
2 caps milk.
2 eggs.
2 heaping tablespoons sugar.
Flavoring of nutmeg or stick cinna-
mon. Boil the milk with half the sugar
in it to prevent burning on the bottom.
Beat the two eggs in a cup with the rest
of the sugar and a spoouful of milk
added. When the milk boils pour a
little to the eggs, then turn all into the
saucepan and stir until it thickens and
shows signs of boiling. Too much cook-
ing will spoil it.
137 Caramel Ice Cream.
3 cups rich milk.
1 cup cream.
6 yolks of eggs.
2 tablespoons sugar forcaramel
8 tablespoons sugar to sweeten
J rupcuracoa.
Set the 2 ounces of sugar over the fire
in a little saucepan, without water, and
let it melt and brown to the color of ma-
ple syrup, then add to it a few spoons-
fuls of water and set it at the side to
dissolve and make liquid caramel.
Boil the 3 cups of milk with half the
sugar in it, beat the yolks with the rest
of the sugar and a spoonful of milk added,
pour them and the milk together and
cook a minute carefully to make smooth
yellow custard. Add the caramel to it
and strain ii into the freezer, pour in the
curacoa when cold and whip the cup of
cream and add that and freeze with
rapid beating.
COST of material milk and cream 10,
eggs 8, sugar 7, cnracoa 20, ice and
salt 10, 55 cents for about 2 quarts af-
ter freezing.
13S-Clams on the Half Shell.
The smallest clams are preferred.
Wash the outside thoroughly before
opening. Loosen the clams from shell
they are served in and retain all the
liquor the shell will hold. Place 4 or 5
in each plate and half a lemon in the
middle.
COST depends on locality. The fur-
ther from the sea shore the more of a
variety to serve at a fine diner.
139 Consomme Royal.
We have no word in English for ron-
somme but broth, and that is not an
equivalent,but only a substitute. French
cooks understand by consomme a clear
soup as rich as melted jelly. Consomme
royal is of the color of brandy, with little
egg custards floating in it.
Simmer a large fowl and two or
more shanks of veal in a gallon >f water
for three or four hours, and while it is
cooking add the vegetables and season-
ings. These should be the usual soup
bunch (without parsnips or green onion
tops, however), together with a stalk of
celery, half a bay leaf, a teaspoonful of
bruised pepper-corns and a sprig of
green thyme or marjoram.
When it has boiled long enough strain
the broth into a saucepan.
To clarify the consomme,chop a pound
of lean beef fine, mix with it two whites
of eggs and a cup of cold water. Then
pour the broth to the be?f, stir up and
boil again. Strain through a napkin or
jelly bag, season with salt, color with a
teaspoonful of dissolved burnt sugar and
remove every particle of grease.
To make the floating custards take three
or four yolks of eggs, raw, and mix
with them a spoonful of the consomme.
Pour into a slightly buttered saucer and
steam it until done 10 minutes. Cut
the custard in diamond shapes and drop
three or tour in each soup plate.
Where it is not necessary to be ex-
tremely particular good clear soup can
be obtained by letting the soup-stock get
cold in a jar and after taking off the fat,
pouring it off without disturbing the
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
48.
sediment. Strain through a napkin
make hot and add the spoonful of color in
and salt as before.
COST of material chicken to be use
in salad or patties 0, veal 16, vegetable
5, beef 10, eggs, 6; 37c for 2 quarts
or 3c per plate.
140 Vegetable Soup.
2 quarts of soup stock 8 or 10 cups
3 cups mixed vegetables.
Seasonings.
Take for the stock the liquor in whicl
any kind of meat has been boiled be
shank, mutton, heart, tongue, fowl, rab
bit, etc., and corned beef liquor does
very well. The richer the stock can be
of course the better it is. Strain it into
the soup pot. Skim off most of the fat
almost every kind of vegetable can be
used. Take a piece of each andc ut al
into dice shapes, or, if to be very nice,
cut vegetables in slices and stamp oul
little patterns with a tin cutter or the
point of a tin funnel. There should be
turnips white and yellow, carrot, pump-
kin, celery, siring beans, green peas,
onions, summer squash, cauliflower. li
vegetables are scarce, a little parsnip
and cabbage and potatoes can be used,
but the latter put in late so as not to boi]
away.
Boil the hard vegetables, such as car-
rots, turnips, onions, string beans and
celery, together in a littls saucepan first;
then pour the water away and put the
vegetables in the boiling stock, and add
the easy-cooking kinds, such as cauli-
flower, asparagus heads and peas
whatever may be on hand. At last add
apiece of red tomato, cut small, salt and
pepper to taste and a tablespoonful of
corn starchomxed in a cup with water.
COST about lOc per quart or 8 plates
141 Baked Sea Bass.
Scale and clean the fish; leave the
bead on if it h to be sent to table whole.
Make a stuffing for it of 2 pressed cupfnls
of bread crumbs, a email cupful of but-
ter, rind of a quarter of lemon minced
fine, parsely, green thyme and marjoram,
and pepper and salt, and two eggs
mixed with a spoonful of water to mois-
ten it. Sew up the fish when stuffed.
Mark it in slices as if to be carved, on
both sides, by cutting down to the bone,
and put a thin slice of salt pork in each
incision. Bake in a long pan, with soup
stock and salt and pepper in it,
about 30 or 40 minutes, or according to
size. Put a little strained tomatoes and
brown gravy into the fish pan, and water
if necessary; let boil up, skim and strain
for sauce.
COST of material 3 Ibs fish 36, pork
slices for insertion and scraps in baking
pan 6, stuffing and sauce 15; 57c for 8
to 12 orders or 5 or 6c per plate.
142 Small Potatoes.
Scoop out balls size of cherries from
arge potatoes with a potato spoon. A
cupful will make enough for a dozen
plates of fish. Make cup of butter
and -i cup of lard hot in a very small
saucepan and drop the potato balls in and
et them stew slowly, As soon as the
>utter gets down to the frying point and
he potatoes and sediment begin to
)rown on the bottom pour off all the
grease and set the potatoes in the oven
a few minutes to acquire a handsome
olor. Sprinkle salt and chopped pars-
ey among them. Serve a tablespoon-
*ol with each plate of fish. These are
not the same as fried potatoes and when
irst put into the boiling butter and lard
hey must be stirred from the bottom
nee or twice lest they scorch and ac-
uire a bad taste.
43 Boiled Corned Tongue, Caper
Sauce.
Fresh tongues put in a jar and cover-
d with the brine or pickel No. 106, will
e of a good pink color and nicely salted
n from a week to ten days.
Wash off the corned tongue and boil it
iree hours. Plunge it in cold water
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
49.
and pelt off the skin then set in a hot
place. In carving cut slantingly to
make long slices that will not ran oat
too small at the thin end . Serve with
caper sauce, which is butter sauce with
a little of the caper vinegar mixed in and
the capers about a teaspoonful dashed
on top of the sauce on the meat.
COST of material tongue 35, sauce
5; 40c for 8 to 12 orders or 4c per plate.
144 Roast Rib Ends of Beef.
Take the ends of the ribs that are
sawed off the rib roasts, and put them in
to cook early, while breakfast is still
going on. Let there be in the baking
pan, which should be a deep one, a hand-
ful of salt, 2 or 3 ladlefuls of sweet
fresh drippings from the previous day's
roasting, and about as much water or
soup stock, and let simmer in the oven,
never getting quite without water in the
pan till very nearly time to serve dinner.
If other meats have to be crowded into
the same pan let these rib ends be at
the bottom, they will be so much the
richer and keep on cooking in the gravy
till tender and glutinous. At last, the
water beingall evaporated out of the pan,
roll these rib ends over and over in the
natural glaze that remains on the bottom
and take them out brown and shining
before they likewise get dry. Serve
cuts of 2 or 3 ribs with gravy.
COST of material 3 Ibs beef rib ends
18, seasonings and gravy 2; 20c for 8 or
10 orders.
145 -The Side of Lamb.
The dainty dish of spring lamb may
easily be spoiled, or at least made
very unsatisfactory by careless cutting.
If you take off the shoulder it will
scarcely make two good orders when
roasted, and the ribs underneath it will
amount to nothing. Nearly all who
choose their cuts ask for the ribs and the
carver needs all that the cook can fur-
nish.
Instead of taking the shoulder off,bone
it where it is, beginning at the throat.
Cut along on both sides of the blade
bone and pull it out. There will not be
much time for careful boning, nor is it
necessary, five minutes or less will do.
Saw the ribs across the middle, hack
through the back bone with the point of
a sharp cleaver at two ribs apart and
hack the brisket through ready for carv-
ing in the same manner. Then pull the
meat of the shoulder well over the bris-
ket and fasten it with a skewer or two.
When carved, the ribs will carry a good,
meaty slice of the shoulder with them,
and with a little management the brisket-
en Is of the ribs can be equally well por-
tioned off.
The side thus prepared should be
roasted in one piece, loin and flank in-
cluded, but the leg requiring more time
to cook, should be made a separate cut.
The loin should likewise be carefully
hacked through the back bone ready for
carving into slices like loin chops.
146 Roast Lamb Mint Sauce.
It cooks in from 30 to 45 minutes.
Should be fairly done through and no
more. Needs to be in a pan by itself.
Having prepared the meat as directed
above, wash it in cold water, dredge
both sides with salt and flour, by pres-
sing both sides down into a pan of
flour and shake off the surplus. Place it
with the outside upwards in a baking
pan already hot and containing a little
saltwaterand drippings. When theupper
side has cooked so that the flour will
not wash off begin to baste it and
repeat frequently. If a quarter pound
of quite fresh batter can be had melt it
and baste the lamb with it at the finish.
The butter froths upon meat and gives
it a fine color.
COST of material fore-quarter of lamb,
or 4 Ibs, 60, mint sauce 5; 65c for 12
dishes or 5 or 6c per order.
147 Mint Sauce for Roast Lamb.
The conventional lamb sauce. No
50
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES
other sauce or gravy is needed when
this is used;
2 tablespoons green mint.
1 tablespoon sugar.
\ cup vinegar.
Pick the leaves of mint from the
stems, wash and chop fine, and mix with
the sugar and vinegar in a bowl. Serve
cold, a spoonful to each plate.
148 Roast Green Goose.
Singe and pick the young goose free
from pin-feathers and draw it. If to send
the table whole, the pinions should be
cut off before cooking and the main wing
joints skewered to the back, and the
legs held compactly to the side either
with skewers or twine. Fry a minced
onion in butter, light yellow, and not
at all dark and strong, and mix it
with some dry mafihed potatoes; add
an egg and the butter that the onion
was fried in and a seasoning of white
pepper. Stuff the goose with the sea-
soned potato, sew up, bake it in a pan
for about one hour, or more, if large.
Dredge the goose over with flour when
nearly done, and baste it with butter,
which will prnduce a fine crust and
brown color. -
If to be sent in whole, bake some
email apples in a pan covered with
greased paper and place them around
the goose in a dish.
COST of material the same as spring
lamb, about 6 or 7c an order, according
to market price.
149 Cucumber Salad.
Slice the cucumbers two hours before
they are wanted and sprinkle the slices
plentifully with salt. Set the dish in the
refrigerator. Just before dinner drain
away the salt liquor from the cucum-
bers and shake them about with oil first,
and then with vinegar and pepper. Serve
on a very cold dish.
150 Turkey Salad.
Take the remainder of a cooked tur-
key or half a boiled turkey, if cooked
for the purpose, pick all the meat from
the bones and remove the thick fat and
skin, cut the meat into long shreds and
then across, making the smallest, pos-
sible dice shapes. Cut celery, if in sea-
son, the same way, about two-thirds as
much celery as there is turkey, or if
that is not in season use crisp lettuce or
a mixture of lettuce and finely chop*
ped white cabbage, and add celery salt
or extract or celery vinegar. Mix meat
and the vegetables together, season
slightly with uepper and salt. Pour in
a little salad oil say a quarter cupful,
stir about and then stir in as much vin-
egar. Heap and smooth over the salad
in a large platter it will adhere and
keep shape well then pour and spread
over it a well-seasoned mayonaise.
After spreading the mayonaise over
the turkey salad, ornament with quar-
ters of hard boiled eggs or with chop-
ped yolks and parsley, olives, cut lem-
ons or shapes stamped out of cooked
beets.
COST of material 2 Ibs turkey meat
or chicken 40, oil, vinegar and season-
ings 10, celery and garnishings 10, may-
onaise 15; 75c for 2 quarts, or from 8
to 16 orders; or, 40c per quart or 5c
per hotel dinner dish.
151 Mayonaise Salad Dressing.
2 raw yolks of eggs .
teacup olive oil.
About half as much vinegar or lemon
uice.
A level teaspoon salt.
Same of made mustard.
Pinch of cayenne.
Put the two raw yolks in a pint bowl,
add two tablespoonfuls of oil, set the
bowl in ice-water or otherwise make it
cold, and beat with a Dover egg-beater
about a half a minute. Then add more
oil and whip, and then throw in the salt,
and on whipping again the mixture will
it once thicken up, looking like softened
mtter. Then add a spoonful of vinegar,
:hen oil and so on alternately till all is
n. Add the mustard and cayenne for
easoning. The best mayonaiee is
COOKNG FOR PROFIT.
51
made with lemon juice instead of part
of the vinegar, and when it will not
thicken as desired the lemon juice inva-
riably corrects the trouble and gives the
dressing the desired consistency. It
should not be thin enough to run, but
should coat over the pile of salad mate-
rial it is spread upon. The foregoing
shows the quickest method of making
this important sauce or dressing; the
egg-beater or the want of it need not,
however, be an obstacle in the way, for
simply stirring around in the bowl with
a wooden spoon is the way most com-
monly practiced.
152 Water Cress Salad.
Cut away the rough stems, pick off
the root fibers, and wash the cress care-
fully. Drain, cut it in inch lengths,
season in a bowl with a little salt and
pepper, and when they are mixed in
sprinkle with vinegar. Serve in small
salad dhhes individually,
153 Lambs' Tongues with Artichokes.
Take for preference, corned lambs' or
sheeps' tongues of a good pink color, and
boil them not less than 2 hours, which
may be done the evening before they
are served, if more convenient. Put
them into cold water and peel off the
outside and split them lengthwise in two.
Having the halves ready in a dish
when the roast meat is done, after taking
it out lay the tongues in the fat and
glaze in the baking pan for about 5 min-
utes,then take them out slightly browned
and glazed and keep hot.
Cook an artichoke for each dish, as
directed further on, boiling them, that is
to say, like summer cabbage or cauli-
flower, but cut them in halves instead
of quarters; only scoop out the fibrous
part before cooking. Drain them well.
Serve half a tongue in the small dish
and a half artichoke at each end, and a
spoonful of brown gravy over the vege-
table without covering the tongue.
Tongue and spinach may be served the
same way.
COST of material 4 tongues 20, arti-
chokes and gravy 10; 30cfor 8 dishes or
about 4 cents pev order.
154 Spaghetti and Cheese Romaine.
Spaghetti is maccoroni in another form,
a solid cord instead of a tube.
4 ounces spaghetti 2 cups when
broken.
1 cup minced cheese 2 ounces.
1 cup milk.
Butter size of an egg.
2 yolks of eggs .
This dish ought to be quite yellow.
Throw the spaghetti into water that is
already boiling, and salted. After cook-
ing 20 minutes drain it dry, and put it
into the buttered dish it is to be baked
in.
Put the cheese and butter and half
the milk into a saucepan and stir them
over the fire till the cheese is nearly
melted, mix the yolks with the rest of
the milk, pour that into the saucepan,
then add the whole to the spaghetti in
the pan, and bake it a yellow brown in
as short :\ time as possible. It loses its
richness if cooked too long, through the
toughening of the cheese.
COST of material spaghetti 4, cheese
3, milk 1, butter 3, egg-yolks 3; 14c
for 8 orders, or about 2c per dish*
155 Vanilla Puff fritters Rum
Sauce.
1 cup water -J- pint.
^ cup butter- -3 J ounces.
2 rounded tablespoons sugar.
I rounded cup flour 5 ounces.
3 large eggs.
1 teaspoon vanilla extract.
Boil the water with the sugar and
butter in it in a deep saucepan. Drop
in the flour all at once and stir the mix-
ture over the fire till you have a firm,
well-cooked paste. Take it from the
fire and work in the egg* one at a time
with a spoon, and beat the paste well
against the side of the saucepan. Add
the vanilla with the List egg. The more
the paste is beaten the more the puffa
will expand in the frying fat.
52
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZET1ITS
Make some lard hot. It will take
half a saucepauful. Drop pieces of the
batter about as large as eggs and watch
them swell and expand in the hot larc
and become hollow and light. Only four
or five at a time can be fried because
they need lots of room.
The fritters being slightly sweet wil
be liable to fry too dark if the lard be
made too hot; and they may be as much
as five minutes in it before they begin to
swell and roll over.
COST of material butter 8, sugar
and vanilla 2, flour 1, eggs 6, lard to
fry damaged 4 21c for 12 fritters rum
sauce 11 32 cents for 12 dishes of frit-
ters with rum sauce cr about 3c per
order.
156 Rum Sauce for Fritters.
1 cup water.
J cup sugar.
1 rounded tablespoon starch.
J a lemon without the seeds.
1 ounce butter.
1 bastingspoon of rum.
Boil the water. Mix the starch with
the sugar dry and stir them in. Slice
the lemon into it and add the butter and
let the eauce simmer at the side until it
becomes quite transparent. Then add
the rum. Pour a spoonful over each
fritter as they are dished up.
COST 11 or 12 cents.
157 Browned Potatoes.
Pare the potatoes and steam them, and
the broken ones being used to mash, or
a la duchesse, put the others in a small
pan with some of the drippings from the
roast lamb pan and a dredf ing of salt
and bake them browii. Cold boiled or
baked potatoea are not fit for this pur-
posethey can be used better for break-
fast dishes.
158 Cauliflower in Cream.
Cauliflower takes from half to three-
quarters ot an hour to cook done. It
should not boil rapidly enough to de-
stroy the small flowerets. Try the stems
with a fork and take off when tender. A
lump of baking soda the size of a
bean in the water will hasten the cook-
ing without injuring the vegetable.
Divide the cauliflower into portions of
convenient size before cooking, and
when drained and dished up pour a
spoonful or two of good strained cream
sauce over each portion.
159 Stewed Butter Beans.
Throw Lima or butter beans into a
sauce-pan of water that is already boil-
ing and has salt in it, and cook about
half-hour, if green beans, but if dried
they will take one and a hall hours, be-
sides a previous soaking in water. Drain
away the water, and mix a little cream
sauce or butter sauce, or add milk, but-
ter and salt, and thicken when it boils
ISOArtichokes as a Vegetable.
Let ihe artichokes lie in a pan of cold
water,the same as is the rule for cauliflow-
er,spiuach,etc., an hour or two before they
are to be cooked. Wash well, and if
the tips of the leaves are discolored,
clip them; cut the artichokes in 4 and
remove the stringy core. Have the water
ready boiling, put in a teaspoonful of
salt and baking soda the size of a bean,
tail the artichokes about hour or until
the soft end of the leaf when pulled out
proves to be tender. Drain and serve
ike cauliflower, 2 pieces in a dish, and
a spoonful of butter sauce poured over.
161 Indian Fruit Pudding.
3 cups milk or water 1 pints.
1 cup yellow corn-meal 6 ounces.
1 teacup minced suet 3 ounces.
J teacup black molasses 3 ounces.
2 eggs. Little salt.
1 cup seedless raisins 4 ounces.
Same of currants.
J teaspoon ginger, cinnamon, or grated
emon rind.
Make mush with the meal and water
and let it cook well with the steam shut
COOKING FOB PROFIT.
53
in for an hour or two. Then mix in all
the other ingredients, the fruit previously
dusted with flour, and bake it in a pan
or mold about an hour. Cover with
greased paper to keep the fruit from
blistering. Three heaping cups of corn-
meal mush ready made will do as well.
The above makes a quart of pudding.
COST of material meal 2, suet or but-
ter 3, molasses 2, eggs 4, raisins 5
currants and spices 5; 21c for 8 orders
with sauce 3c per dish.
162 Rich Lemon Pie.
7 ounces sugar a cupful.
3 lemons.
1 cup rich cream.
6 yolks of eggs and 2 whites.
Place the sugar in a bowl and grate
the lemon rinds into it with a tin greater,
and then squeeze in the juice. Beat the
yolks of eggs light and mix the cream
with them; pour this to the lemon and
sugar, and just before filling the pie
crusts with the mixture whip the two
whites to a froth and stir them in.
Use puff-paste to line the pie pans.
The mixture will fill two pies, or three if
small. It is hard to bake without brown-
ing the top too much, so they should be
under the shelf of the oven. These rich
pies do not need frosting, only a dredging
of powdered sugar.
COST of material sugar 5, lemons 6,
cream 6, eggs 12, paste 6; 35c for 10
portions, or 3 or 4 cents each order.
163 White Cocoanut Pie.
1 cup milk.
2 tablespoons sugar.
1 rounded tablespoon starch.
2 or 3 ounces grated cocoanut,
3 or 4 whites of eggs.
Small piece of butter.
Pinch of salt.
Boil the milk alone. Mix the starch
and sugar together dry and stir them in;
then the butter and cocoanut. Set it
away to get cold. Whip the whites to
a firm froth and mix them with the pie-
mixture. Bake in thin crusts of puff
paste. Makes two small pies.
COST of material milk 2, sugar and
starch 2, cocoanut 5, butter 1, eggs 4,
crusts for 2 pies 5; 19 cents for 8 por-
tiQOS, or 2 to 3c per order.
164 Apricot Ice.
3 cupfuls of apricots cut in pieces-.
1 cupful of sugar 8 ounces 1 .
2 cupfuls of water, ,
The kernels of half the apricots.
2 whites of eggs.
The ripest and sweetest apricots, if the
fresh fruit be used, should be kept out,
one cupful to be mixed in the ice when
finished.
Stew the other two cupfuls and the
peeled kernels in the water and sugar for
a few minutes, rub the fruit then with
the back of a spoon, through a strainer
into the freezer along with the syrup.
Freeze like ice cream and when it is
nearly finished whip the two whites to a
firm froth, mix them in and turn the
freezer rapidly a short time longer. Stir
in the cut apricots just before serving.
Canned apricots can be used as well, and
if in syrup that can be mixed in also.
COST of material apricots 25, sugar
5, white of eggs 4, ice and salt 10; 44c
for 3 pints or 8 to 12 dishes, or 4c per
order.
165 Fine White Cake.
18 ounces granulated sugar 2J ends
8 ounces white butter 1 large cup.
pint of milk 1 large cup.
6 ounces of corn starch 1 roupde.
cup.
12 ounces of flour 3 rounded cups,
2 large teaspoonfuls cream tartar.
1 small teaspoonful of soda.
12 whites of eggs.
Vanilla extract to flavor.
Sift the cream tartar in the flour three
or four times over.
54
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES
Mix the starch in a email bowl with
the cup of milk.
Get the whites of eggs ready in a tin
pail or large whipping bowl.
Dissolve the soda in two spoonfuls of
milk in a cup.
Put the sugar and butter together in
the mixing pan, warm them slightly and
stir till creamy and add the dissolved
soda. Srir in the com starch and milk.
Whip the whites to a firm froth and mix
them and the prepared flour in a portion
of each alternately. Flavor. Bake as
soon as mixed ; either in layers for choc-
olate cake or in mold . If the latter, frost
over when cold.
COST 50 cents for a 2 quart mold or
about 3 Ibs of cake; with icing 5c more.
166 Tomato Soup.
2 quarts soup stock.
1 cupful stewed tomatoes*
1 small cupful of minced vegetables.
6 cloves.
1 tablespoon minced parsley.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Little flour for thickening.
Tomatoes stewed down after season-
ing with salt, pepper and butter, are a
different article from the freshly pre-
pared and impart a new richness to soup.
The soup stock may be the liquor in
which a piece of beef or mutton is boiled
for dinner, with the addition of other raw
scraps and pieces, such as the bones and
gristly ends of a beefsteak. An hour
before dinner time take out the meat
strain the stock through a fine strainer
and into the soup pot. Cut piece of car-
rot, turnip and onion into small dice
and throw in and let cook till done and
add the cloves and cup of tomatoes,
pepper and salt, thickening and the pars-
ley at 1-st.
It is generally considered a reproach
to say the eoup is thin. A proper inuli-
um should be observed. A spoonful of
flour gives the smoothness and substance
required without destroying the clear-
ness of the soup.
COLT of material stock 4, tomatoes
6, vegetables and seasonings 2; 12c for
12 plates.
167 Middle Cut of Salmon Boiled.
Take about three pounds of the mid-
dle out of a small salmon, and, having
scaled and cbaned it, put it on to cook
in water that is already boiling and
strongly salted. The fish should be
placed on the drainer or false bottom of
the fish kettle, but where there is no
such utensil the precaution should be
taken to wrap and pin it in a buttered
napkin, that it may come out of the
water unbroken. Let it cook, very
gently at the side of the range for three-
quarters of an hour. Take it up, re-
move the skin, and place it carefully on
a hot dish. At the moment that it is
sent to table pour over it some of the
fresh butter sauce of the next recipe, fill
the remaining space around it in the dish
with a pint of potato boulleites, and
send in some more of the sauce in a
sauce-boat.
168 Scotch Fish Sauce.
Set 8 ounces of the best butter, the
juice of one lemon, a pinch of cayenne
and a tablesoonful of chopped parsley in
a bowl in a place warm enough to soften
the butter, but not to melt it, and when
the sauce is wanted for use stir together
until creamy.
COST of material salmon 1,00, pota-
toes 2, sauce 20; $1,22 for 12 hotel
orders or lOc per plate.
169 Boiled Bacon and Cabbage.
(Jut 2 summer cabbages in quarters
and cut out most of the. stem part. Let
lie in a pan of cold water until wanted
to cook. Put on sauc ^pan plenty large
enough with water and salt and a very
little baking soda in it about the size
of a bean for two cabbages when it
boils put in the cabbage and let it cook
half an hour.
Shave the smoky outside off a pound
COOKING FOE PROFIT.
55
of bacon and boil the bacon in a sauce
pan by itself for half hour. Then drain
off both cabbage and bacon and put them
both together in one pot, pour in boiling
water just to cover, put on a good-fitting
lid and let them slowly cook tog^the
half hour longer.
The quarters ot cabbage, nice and
green appearing, should be drained in
the spoon as they are taken up withou
destroying their shape, and placed in thi
dish with the bacon sliced on top.
COST of material 24c
3 c per plate.
for 8 orders o:
170 Roast 'beef.
To roast or bake meat so that, how-
ever small the piece may be, it will
be found full of gravy when cut,
it is necessary to have the pan it is baked
in hot before the meat goes in, and al-
though there must be liquor in the pan
while it is baking, that should be added
after the meat has become hot enough
outside for the pores to be closed and
juices retained inside.
The choice roasting piece of beef is the
ribs between the edge of the shoulder-
blade and the loin the short ribs. As
the butchers have to sell everything, as
a matter of business, they take out the
ri is and coil the thin meat of the breast
around the choice upper portion, and
make a neat cushion-shaped roast, se-
cured with twine and skewers. In the
places where the highest prices are paid,
however, the breast portion has to be c it
away altogether and cooked separately,
as in our example of last week, and the
choice upper portion or enire-cote only is
roasted. This is nearly always cooked
rare clone, and the plentiful graTy that
flows from it when cut is caught in a dish
and is the only gravy served with it. As
to time, the old rule is the only ona.
Allow a quarter of an hour for each
pound of meat, and less, according to
judgment, when the roast is of thin shape
or required to be very rare done.
Common Roast of beef,
by slicing off the top.
To be carved
Choice roast, close trimmed and the
spine bone removed. To be carved by
cutting entire slices off the end.
COST of roast beef common roast beef
at 12c, loses one-third in trimmings and
cooking 1 pound 18c, 6 plates to the
pound, 3c per plate. Choice roast at
18d, same proportions, 6 plates to the
pound 4Jc per plate.
171 Stuffed Brisket of Veal.
The breast or brisket of veal is a low-
priced cut, at least when the veal is
large, but is most excellent when cooked
tender. There is a large proportion of
gelatinous bone and tendon good for
soups and stews. Take the entire
'plate," as the butchers call it, and
ake out the bones by cutting down the
sides of the ribs and along the brisket
edge with the point of the knife, without
cutting down through. Then chop the
)one in pieces and use them in soup, as
directed in a previous receipe. Make
he bread stuffing the same as for roast
urkey , lay it on the broad , boneless
>iece of veal which may be made
roader and evener by splitting the
reast edge part way then roll up and
ie in good shape with twine. Put the
56
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETIES
rolled veal into a baking pan, with fat
skimmed from the soup, a little water
and salt and baked with greased paper
on top for a time, according to the size
of the veal probably an hour and a
half. Baste it with a little drippings,
roll it over in the glaze or gravy of the
pan when that becomes brown at last,
and make pan gravy when the meat is
taken oat the usual way.
COST of material 3 Ibs veal brisket
at lOc loses one half in boning, soup
bones pay for the dressing 2 Ibs stuffed
veal for 30, or 8 to 10 orders, 3c per
plate.
172 Ragout of Sweetbreads and
Mushrooms.
2 or 3 large sweetbreads, or 1 pound.
J can mushrooms.
2 ounces butter size of an egg.
1 tablespoon flour.
Little minced onion and ham for
Boning.
Juice of 1 lemon.
Cayenne jind salt.
Fried shapes of bread for the border.
Take the sweatbreads already cooked
and cold, and cut them in large dice.
Make the sauce for them in a deep
saucepan, first putting in half the butter,
a large teaspoon! id of minced onion and
a very thin slice of ham, and when these
are cooked enough for flavor without
browning put in the flour and stir the
mixture over the fire until it begins to
color. Then add gradually the mush-
room liquor and a cupful of the liquor
the sweatbreads were boiled in, let it
boil up and become thick. Add a pinch
of cayenne. Next, melt the other piece
of butter in a frying-pan, put in the
mushrooms and the cup of sweetbreads
and shake them about over the fire until
they begin to show color; tike it off,
squeeze in the juice of the lemon and
strain in the thick sauce from the other
vessel. Dish them heaped up in the
center of a flat platter, or of small dishes
for individual ordeis, and place a border
of thin shapes of bread fried in lard
around the edge.
COST of material sweetbreads 30,
mushrooms 15, butter 4, seasonings and
croutons 4; 53c for 8 orders or 6 or 7c
per plate.
173 Macaroni and CheeseBechamel.
5 ounces Macaroni J package.
2 ounces cheese \ cup.
2 ounces butter.
1J pints milk, or water 3 cups.
2 eggs. Salt.
Parsley and flour thickening.
Boil the macaroni by itself first, throw-
ing it into water that is already boiling
and salted. Let it cook only 20 minutes.
Then drain it dry and put it into a pan
or baking dish holding about three pints.
Chop the cheese, not very fine, and
mix it with the macaroni likewise the
butter. Beat the two eggs and the pint
of water or milk together, pour them on
the macaroni and set in ihe oven to
bake. While it is getting hot boil a cup
of milk (the remaining half pint of the
recipe), and thicken it with a rounded
tablespoonful of flour mixed up with part
of it in a cup, add salt and a tablespoon-
ful of chopped parsley, and when the
macaroni in the oven is set so that the
two cannot mix, pour this white cream
sauce on top of it, shut up the oven, and
let it bake a yellow brown. This makes
a very attractive dish, as the yellow
cheese and custard boils up in spots
among the white sauce and parsley.
COST of material macaroni 5, cheese
3, butter 4, milk 2, eggs 4, seasonings
1; 19c for 8 orders, 2^c per plate.
174 New Potatoes, Maitre d'Hotel.
All articles that are a la maitre d 'hotel
have an acid and some green in the sauce.
Take potatoes that are small and just out
of the ground and scrape them, keeping
them covered with cold water until time
to cook. Put them on in cold water,
COOKING FOB PROFIT.
67
with salt in it; boil with care, not to let
them break when done. Drain off ; put
in fresh hot water, little salt, lump of
butter, vinegar to make laste slightly,
chopped parsley, and when these have
boiled up a spoonful of flour thicken-
ing. Fhake about, without putting a
epoon in, until it thickens.
175 Summer Squash.
This vegetable should always be
eteamed, or at any rate not boiled in
water, it being an object to get it as dry
as possible so as to allow the addition
of milk or cream when it is mashed.
Shave off the outside thinly with a sharp
knife; cut each squash in six or eight
pieces. It depends upon the age and
distinctness of the seeds whether they
should be cut out or not if large enough
to show prominently in the mashed squash
take out the entire core. Squash cooks
in about half an hour, and may be al-
lowed to pimmer and dry out more after
mashing and seasoning, in a pan se
upon a couple of bricks.
176 Steamed Cherry Pudding.
1 cup pitted cherries. ,
2 heaping cups flour.
2 teaspoonfuls baking powder.
^ cup water.
Mix the powder in the flour dry, make
a hollow in the middle, throw in a little
salt, pour in the water and mix up as
soft as it can be handled. Work th
dough on the table slightly by pressinj
in flat with the hands and doubling over
Lay a bottom crust of it in a tin pud
ding pan that holds a quart; spread hal
the Bitted cherries on it, lay anothe
crust on them, then the remainder of th
cherries and a third sheet of dough o
top. Set in a steamer and steam from
30 to 45 minutes and serve while ho
and light, with sauce.
COST of material cherries 10, flour 2
powder 2; 14 hard sauce 13- 27c fo
8 orders or 3c per plate.
* 177 Hard Sauce.
1 large cup powdered sugar, pound.
1 small cup tresh buttea, J pound.
Grated nutmeg.
Soften the butter but not melt it.
Stir it and the sugar together to a cream
s in making cake. The more it is
tirred (if in a bowl or dish and not in
hi) the whiter it becomes. Spread it on
dish and grate nutmeg on top. Keep
t cold until wanted.
Good for all kinds of puddings, and
can be colored pink by. adding while
steaming a little red fruit juice.
COST butter and sugar I3c.
J78. Sliced Apple Pie, Rich.
Use this way only the best ripe cook-
ng applies. Pare and core and slice
hem thin across the core hole, making
rings. Fill paste-lined pie pans about
two layers deep. Thinly cover the ap-
ple slices with sugar, and grate nutmeg
Dver. Put in each pie, butter about the
size of a walnut and a large spoonful of
water. Bake without a top crust slowly
and dry. The apples become transpar-
ent and half candied.
COST of material for 2 pies, puff
paste 6, apples 2, sugar 3, butter 2;
count 2 per plate .
179 Lemon Sherbet,,
1 quart water.
1 pound sugar.
2 large lemons.
3 whites of eggs.
Grate the rinds of the lemons into a
bowl and squeeze in the juice. Make a
boiling syrup of the sugar and half the
water, and pour it hot to the lemon zest
and juice and let it remain so till cold, or
as long as convenient, to draw the flavor.
Then add the rest of the water, strain
into a freezer, freeze as usual, and when
it is pretty well frozen, whip the whites
to a froth, mix them in, beat up and
again.
58
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETIES
COST of material sugar 10, lemons 4,
eggs 4, ice and salt 12; 30c for 3 pints
or 8 saucers or 12 glasses, or 3c per
order.
180 Small Cream Cakes.
8 ounces granulated sugar 1 cup.
4 ounces butter, melted J cup.
\ cup milk.
12 ounces flour 3 cups.
1 teafpoonful baking powder.
Beat the sugar and eggs together a
minute or two, add the melted butter,
the milk, the powder and the flour.
Slightly greape some baking pans and
drop the batter by tablespoonful? to form
little round cakes. Sprinkle granulated
eugar on top of each one. Bake in a
slack oven. The cakes run out rather
thin and delicate and should have plenty
of room. Take off with a knife when
cold and place two together with pastry
cream spread between.
COST of material sugar 6 eggs 10,
butter 8, milk 1, flour 2, powder 1;
28c pastry cream 8 36c for 36 cream
cakes.
181 Pastry Cream.
1 cup milk J pint.
2 tablespoons sugar 2 ounces.
1 heaping tablespoon flour 1 ounce.
Batter size of a walnut.
Lemon extract to flavor.
Boil the milk with a little of the su-
gar in it to prevent burning. Mix the
rest of the sugar and the flour together
dry, dredge them into the boiling milk,
beating all the while, and let cook five
minutes. Throw in the butter and beat
the egg a little and stir in. Put the lid
on and let cook at the back of the range
about ten minutes longer. Flavor when
nearly cold.
COST 8 cents.
Compote of Bananas with Rice.
Peel the bananas and cut them in
two across. Make a clear syrup like
pudding sauce, drop in the bananas
while it ia boiling, then remove from
the fire, as they do not need to cook,
but. only scald. Stir a little sugar
and butter into some cooked rice.
Serve rice smoothed over in the dish,
and bananas with sauce on top. Rum
is the flavoring mostly used with
bananas; it may be added to the
sauce. A lemon cut up in it does as
well.
Banana Ambrosia.
Cat up bananas and oranges in
about equal proportions in a glass
bowl, add grated cocoanut, powdered
sugar, rock candy and wine to make
a syrup, and anything else such as
gum drops, almonds and crystalized
fruits to make a brimming bowlful
that may be desired, and mix all
together. The ladies all know how
to serve it.
Macaroon Ice Cream.
Use the rich kind of macaroons,
known as soft macaroons; they are
made like egg kisses with plenty of
crushed almonds in to make them
brown. Allow a pound of them to
three pints of pure cream. Sweeten
the cream with maraschino, chop the
macaroons fine and mix them in.
Freeze ; put it in a brick mould, pack
and freeze again.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
59
HOTEL DINNER.
182 Puree of Bean Soup With Crusts.
The special seasonings that make this
eoup 'good are mustard, butter and
minced red pepper, to be added at last.
A little of the liquor from the boiling
corned beef or a knuckle bone of ham
will improve the flavor.
2 quarts of soup stock.
1 cupful of navy beans.
1 tablespoon of minced onion.
Butter size of an egg (optional).
1 teaspionful of made mustard.
Parsley, salt, little minced red pepper.
Make the soup stock by boiling al-
most any kind of meat and marrow
bones in a gallon of water, with the
usual soup bunch of various vegetables
in it, until the liquor is reduced nearly
one-half. Then strain it and skim off
the fat.
The trouble with this kind of soup of
the bean puree settling to the bottom and
leaving the liquid clear is caused through
the beans being imperfectly cooked.
Steep them in water over night and put
a pinch of Boda in the water they are
cooked in, to help dissolve them, and
when perfectly soft, mash them through
a seive or gravy strainer. Have the
stock boiling; pour it to the puree grad
ually and stir to mix; throw in the
minced onion. Set on the side of the
range or on bricks on the stove top, and
let simmer 15 or 20 minutes. Season
as already indicated. Add a spoonful
of thickening along with the mustard.
Sprinkle parsely over the surface.
Serve with crusts.
COST stock 8, beans 3, seasonings
5 crusts 2; 18c for 2 quarts.
183 Crusts for Soup.
It is a common fault to make these
large and unsightly. When, in addition,
they are burned in the oven, they spoil
any soup, however well made.
Shave away the dark crust from cold
rolls or slices of bread ; cut the bread in-
to neat, dice shapes of even size,
and toast it in a pan in the oven to a
light brown color all over. Pour from
six to twelve in each soup plate before,
the soup.
184-Baked Whitefish.
Split the fish, after cleaning, down
the back and take out the backbone.
Put some good, clear drippings to get
hot in a baking pan. Wipe the fish, dip
it in beaten egg, then dip it in flour and
then in egg again, lay it in the pan of fat
and bake it carefully at moderate heat-per
haps with the oven door open for about
twenty minutes. Baste the exposed
surface with the fat. Fish looks ex-
tremely rich cooked this way, yellow-
brown and semi-transparent, if not al-
lowed to get too hot while baking; yet
the fat must be hissing hot when the fish
is put in. Serve tomato sauce at the
side. Garnish the fish with fried par-
sley.
COST of material fish 2 Ibs. 25, 2
eggs 4, seasonings and frying fat 3,
sauce 3; 35 cents for 8 orders or 4 to 5c
per plate.
NOTE Whitefish does not lose much
weight in cooking, and for the above
method it is best if in thin and broad
pieces it takes less raw weight for a
given number than most other kinds.
185 Roast Leg of Mutton.
For plain roast leg of mutton proceed
in the same manner as for roast beef.
Whether the mutton shall be rare done
or well done must depend upon the
preferences of those it is cooked for, but
in either case the method is the same
and the natural gravy should flow from
a well-done leg of mutton as well as one
under-done, if not in suchlarge quantity.
It is best to make it a rule to always put
a little salt in the pan the meat is roasted
in, and water enough to cover the bottom,
60
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
and if a made gravy is wanted some
pcraps and trimmings beside. The rea-
son is that the gravy that oozes from
these scraps, and that will escape from
the meat, too, to some extent, will be
found at the end of the roasting sticking
to the bottom of the pan, while the
grease is above it is clear it will dissolve
as soon as the grease is poured off and
water reaches it instead, but if there is
no salt it is slow to dissolve. A spoonful
of thickening will be needed in it.
Let the leg of mutton have a good
brown color on the outside, even if not
done through. Turn it over by lifting
the projecting bone, and do not pierce
the meat with a fork. From 1 hour to
2 will be required to roast it, according
to size.
COST per plate the same as roast beef.
186 Beef Heart, Stuffed and Baked
Boil the heart tender first, allowing
about two or three hours, and let the
water be nearly all boiled away at the
finish, that the remaining liquor may be
available for gravy.
When the heart has boiled long enough
cut out a portion of the middle and fill
the cavity with stuffing. Set the heart
in a pan in the oven with the liquor it
was boiled in, and salt and pepper and
bake brown. Cut the piece of heart
into small pieces, put them to the liquor
remaining in the pan and stir up with the
fragments of dressing and a spoonful of
thickening, making a savory thick sauce
or ragout.
COST heart 10, stuffing 5; 15c for 8
or 10 orders, or 2c per plate.
187 Scrambled Brains in Patties.
A good way to serve brains where
there is but a small quantity available.
1 set of brains or a cupful.
2 eggs.
1 ounce of butter small egg size.
Parsley, pepper and salt.
Puff paste for 8 shells.
Simmer the brains in water, with salt
and a little vinegar in it, about 20 min-
utes. Takeout, pick them over to" re-
move the dark portions, put them into
a frying-pan with the butter, break in
the eggs, and a little chopped parsley, v
pepper and salt, and stir all together
over the fire until the eggs in it are soft
cooked. Then till patty shells made of
puff paste, put on the lids and ornament
with a sprig of parsley.
Scrambled brains as above also make
a good breakfast dish without the pat-
ties. It is common to put the brains in
the pan raw, but not a good way, for it
is difficult to get them cooked through
without making them too dry, and almost
impossible to free them from blood dis
colorations.
The shells are formed in the same
manner as directed for cherry tartlets,
but may be oval or any other shape.
COST of material brains 10, eggs 4,
butter 2, seasonings 1, pastry 8; 25c for
8 patties or 3c per plate.
188 Rice
Croquettes
Jelly.
with Currant
J cup rice, raw, or 2 cups cooked.
1-J- cup water and milk.
Butter size of a guinea egg an ounce.
1 tablespoon sugar.
2 yolks, or 1 egg.
Nutmeg.
> Put the rice on to boil in a measured
cupful of water, and when it is half done
add cupful of milk. It is an object to
have the rice dry when done, and vet
well cooked. Keep the steam shut in
while it is cooking. When soft eno igh,
mash it slightly with the back of a spoon,
work in the other ingredients and a pinch
of salt. Make it in shapes, with flour
on the hands, like small biscuits, and
make it hollow iu the middle to hold a
spoonful of jelly. Having coated the
shapes well with flour, fry them in a
saucepan of hot lard. They will do
without breading in egg and cracker
meal. Put currant ieUy in the depres-
sion when dishing up.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
61
COST of material rice 2, milk 1, but-
ter 2, egg 2, sugar and flour 1, jelly 4;
12c for 8 croquettes with jelly or Ic
each with only powdered sugar.
189 Lobster Salad.
Take the meat of one large lobster and
cut it as near as may be in large dice
shapes, or at least to uniform size, and
keep the reddest pieces in a dish sepa-
rate. Chop two heads of celery. Par-
boil two or three green leaves of celery
to make them a deeper green, and chop
them with the celery likewise to color
the whole.
Spread a layer of the celery on a flat
dish or platter, then the lobster on that
with the red pieces around the edge,
where they will show among the green,
another layer of chopped celery on top,
level over the top surface and pour and
spread upon it some mayonaise dressing
that is almost thin enough to run. The
dreasing should be sufficiently seasonec
to season all the rest.
COST of material lobster 20, celery
5, dressing 9; 34c for from 8 to 12 dish*
es, or from 3 to 4c per plate.
190 Browned Sweet Potatoes.
If the potatoes are of good size pare
them before cooking, split lengthwise anc
steam them until done. Turn them int(
a baking pan, sprinkle with salt, moisten
with spoonfuls of fat from the roas
meat pan and bake them a handsom
brown. Sweet potatoes will not bake t(
a rich color and be really good unles
they are first steamed or boiled thor
oughly done. Thin and stringy potatoe
can be steamed first and peeled after
ward
COST about Ic per plate.
191 Stewed Turnips.
Pare turnips deep enough to remov
the rind that contains the pungent fla
vor. Boil in salted water until tende
sually about an hour then pour away
ic water and add a white sauce instead,
nd a slight sprinkling of minced pare-
ey for ornament.
192 Lemon Cream Pie, Rich.
2 cups milk a pint. .
4 tablespoons sugar 4 ounces.
2 heaping tablespoons flour.
Butter size of a walnut.
4 eggs or the yolks only.
1 small lemon, or some lemon extract
and cream tartar.
Mix the sugar and flour together dry
and grate the rind of the lemon into
hem; boil the milk and stir the dry ar-
icles into it with a wire egg whisk. Add
the butter and juice of the lemon and
hen the yolks of the egs$ well beaten,
jut tako from the fire before they cook.
Line pie pans with puff paste or tart
paste. Pour in the cream and bake in a
slack oven. When done meringue over
as directed in other cases for lemon pies
and meringues, using the whites of the
iggs reserved for the purpose.
COST of material milk 4, sugar fo
pies and meringue 6, butter and flour 2,
eggs 9, lemon 2, crusts 5; 28c for 2
large pies, or 10 portions or 3c per plate.
193 Custard Fritters Glazed.
A sort of sliced custard, breaded and
fried, very rich and very generally liked,
made of
1 cup milk.
2 tablespoons sugar.-
1 tablespoon core starch.
1 heaping tablespoon flour.
2 yolks of eggs.
Butter size of a walnut
Flavoring. Pinch of salt.
Boil the milk with the sugar in it,
which prevents burning. Mix the starch
and flour in a cup, with a spoonful of
old milk extra, and some of that on the
fire; pour it when the railk boils and let
boil thick. Beat in the butter and yolkfl
and take it off. Flavor with lemon or
other extract, and let it get cold like
62
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETZE'S
mush, in a buttered pan. Cut in thick
slices or blocks, *oll in beaten egg anc
then in cracker meal, fry golden yellow
in hot lard . Pour over the hot slices
when they are served a thick, transpa
rent sauce that will coat them withou
running off. It is made so by a spoonfu
of com starch added to boiling syrup anc
allowed to simmer until bright and clear
COST of material milk 2, sugar
starch and flour 3, butter 2, eggs for
mixing and breading 8, flavoring extract
1, cracker meal 2, lard to fry 4, sauce
6; 28c for 8 orders or 3 to 4c per plate.
194 Roman Cream.
As it is always easier to make an arti-
cle if it is known what it should be like
when it is finished this may described as
a dark yellow boiled custard stiffened
with gelatine and whipped to a light
spongy condition while cooling.
1 pint milk.
5 ounces sugar.
1 ounce gelatine light weight.
Small piece stick cinnamon .
^ cup thick cream.
6 yolks eggs.
J cup curacoa, or a wine substitute.
Set the milk over- the side of the fire,
with the sugar, cinnamon and gelatine in
it, and beat often with the wire egg
whisk till the gelatine is all dissolved^
which will be at about the boiling point.
Beat the yolks light, mix them in like
making custard, allow a few moments
for it to thicken but not boil, then strain
into a tin pail or a freezer and set in ice
water; when nearly cold whip the cream
to froth and beat it in and add the cura-
cora or other flavoring. Where there is
no cream whatever to be used for the
purpose after beating up the gelatine
cream quite light as it cools whip the
whites of three eggs to froth and nrx in
by beating.
When the Roman cream has become
cold enough in the ice water to be on
tho point of setting pour it into small in-
dividual molds if convenient, or it not
dish up by spoonsful like ice cream out
of the vessel it is made in. A spoonful
of whipped cream poured around it like
a sauce is an improvement.
CosT of material milk 4, sugar 3,
gelatine 16, cream 2, eggs 10, curacoa,
rum or wine to flavor 15, ice to set 3;
53c for 1 quart or 16 individual molds,
or about 4c per plate.
NOTE These creams, of which there
are several kinds to be made, can be
produced for one-half the above cost by
the use of sheet gelatine, which ia cheap",
and the omission of the expensive liquor.
195- Strawberry Meringue.
This is sold extensively at the fine ba-
keries under the name, generally, of
strawberry shortcake. For the cake
take
8 ounces granulated sugar 1 cup.
5 eggs.
4 ounces butter, melted J- cup.
J cup of milk.
12 ounces of flour 3 cops.
1 teaspoonfill of baking powder.
Beat the sugar and eggs together a
miuute or two, add the melted butter,
the milk, the powder and the flour.
Bake on jelly-cake pans as thin as it can
be spread, or, if preferred, on a large
shallow baking pan. The cake is liable
to rise in the middle and must be spread
on the pan accordingly.
When done cover the top of the cake
with raw strawberries and spread a thick
covering of meringue on top of them.
Set the cake in the oven one minute to
bake a very light color on top, but the
meringue paste must not be cooked
.hrough.
The meringue paste or frosting is made
jy iieating 5 whites of eggs to a firm
Voth and then mixing in 4 tablespoon-
p uls of powdered sugar.
Cut in squares to serve.
COST of materialcake 27, strawber-
ies 2 quarts 50, meringue 10; 87c for
.6 plates or 5Jc per plate- -or, according
o size and the price of berries.
COOKING FOB PROFIT.
63
THE ICE CREAM SALOON.
196 Ice Cream Best.
1 quart of good sweet cream.
10 heaping tablespoons sugar.
2 tablespoons extract vanilla.
Put the the sugar and flavor into the
cream. Set the pan or tin pail contain-
ing it in ice water and whip with the
wire egg-beater for about five minutes
till the cream is half froth. Put it into
a freezer that will hold twice as much,
pack with ice and salt and freeze, and
either by rapid motion of a freezer hav-
ing an inside beater, or by beating the
frozen cream with a paddle make it fill
the freezer before leaving it. Other fla-
voring extracts can of course be used in
place of vanilla.
COST of material cream 24, sugar 6,
vanilla 4, twelve pounds ice 12, three
pounds salt 3 49 cents for 2 quarts of
ice cream or 12 plates, or 4c per plate.
197 Cost of Ice Gream.
There are but few things so uncertain
as this, so much depending upon the price
of ice and salt and so much more upon the
method of proceeding to freeze it We
have stated a supposable average with
cream at 90c per gallon, sugar at lie
per pound and ice and salt each at Ic
per pound. But undoubtedly while the
cream is generally considered the most
costly item the real expense is the freez-
ing mixture. Ice at the cheapest is about
50c per 100 pounds, yet it generally
rules higher and ice cream often has to
be made with ice at 3 dollars per hun-
dred, and salt even of the coarsest, on
account of the cost of transportation in
some places runs up to an equal figure.
It is necessary then to pay particular at-
tention to the freezing process, for one
person can freeze the cream as well with
ten pounds of ice as another may with
thirty. One will have it done and off
hand within half an honr and another
take all the forenoon to accomplish the
same thing and may have to replenish
the freezer three or four times over.
When custards are to be frozen or im-
itation cream made by enriching milk
with eggs and starch it is obviously the
best to let the boiling mixture become
cold before .putting it into the freezer
Still where ice is very plentiful, as in
winter, some time and trouble may be
saved by not going through that prepa-
tion, but the hot custard is strained di-
rect into the freezer. In summer, how-
ever much it may be desired to make the
custard cold beforehand it ought never
to be made over night without special
care to make it thoroughly cold at once,
for otherwise it is almost sure to ac-
quire a curious sort of fermented taste,
and will even in large quantities, throw
up tiny bubbles of fermentation before
morning, and all the high-priced flavor-
ing extract that can be added will not
quite disguise the spoiled taste. The
proper way to do is to make the custard
early in the morning, strain it into a
freezer or tin pail and set it in ice water
or the cold brine that is left in the freez-
ing tub from the previous day, and when
made cold by occasional stirring change
it into the packed freezer it is to be
frozen in.
193 How to Freeze Ice Cream.
Pound the ice quite fine. It seems to
take longer at the beginning but it is by
far the shorter plan in the end, for the
large lumps that are crowded in to save
the trouble of crushing do very little
good and a person may turn a freezer
packed with such large pieces for three
hours without accomplishing the freezing.
The quickest freezing is done with a
mixture of fine ice and snow and salt.
The large establishments that have
the huge cog-wheeled freezers turned
by steam power have ice crushers, a good
deal like the rock crushers at the mines.
A good and neat way on the smallest
scale is to put ten pounds of ice into a
burlap sack and pound it fine with a
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
wooden manl or even with a hammer It
is soon learned by practice how to do this
without immediately destroying the sack.
The rough and ready way for ordinary
hotel work is to throw a fifty pound
block into a large box and pound it fine
with the head of an axe.
Having your ice ready ,plaee the freez-
er with the cream in it. Put around it
hi the freezing tub about four shovelfuls
of ice and on top of that one spoonful of
the coarsest kind of salt you can get
bay salt like that seen sometimes in the
barrels of salted mackerel then more
ice and salt till the freezing tub ia full,
and let there be salt on top. Turn and
keep the fine ice and the salt well mixed
with it pressed and packed into close
contact with the freezer, and in a short
time, running from 20 to 30 minutes, the
freezing will be complete.
There is a hole large enough to admit
a cork near the top of the freezing tub.
That is to let the brine run off before it
rises bigh enough to flow over the lid of
the freezer; and another an inch or two
above the bottom, which is to let out the
brine when it begins to raise the ice from
the bottom. But the brine from the
melting ice and salt should not be kept
too low, but should fill up all the spacei
around the freezer which the ice is not
fine enough to filL The brine in such a
condition is colder than the ice itself, for
salt water will not freeze until the tem-
perature is a long way below freezing
point of fresh water. This accounts fcr
the ice cream remaining at the bottom of
the freezer becoming so hard frozen after
an hour or two in the brine. But there
must always be ice present for the brine
to act upon, consequently there must not
be enough brine in the freezing tub to lift
the ice from the bottom while the freezer
is full.
One can never calculate the cost of ice
cream without knowing whether the art
of freezing it expeditiously with the least
possible consumption of ice will be well
understood.
In some hotels where ice cream is made
every day the brine thus made of clear
ice and clean salt can be utilized, put in
ban-els in which the cucumbers and man-
goes as they are gathered daily in the
garden may be dropped so keep them
until they are eventually made into
pickles .
199 Corn Starch Ice Cream.
4 cups rich milk.
10 tablespoons sugar.
2 rounded tablespoons corn starch.
3 eggs.
1 tablespoon lemon extract.
This is the best and closest imitation
of real cream and is moot generally in
use wherever real cream cannot be ob-
tained. But in order to give it the beat-
ing up quality to increase the bulk and
make it light and rich eating the eggs
must be used strictly as directed.
Separate the eggs" and keep the whites
cold. Beat the yolks with a basting-
spoon of milk added in a large bowl.
Boil the quart of milk with the sugar in
it. Mix the starch in a cup with a little
cold miik and stir it in, and when it boila
again pour it to the beaten yolks in the
bowl. The heat will cook them suffi-
ciently. Then strain, cool, and freeze in
a freezer that will bold twice as much.
^^ 7 hen frozen nearly firm enough whip
the whites to a froth, add them to the
ice cream and work it either by rapid
turning or with a wooden paddle until it
fills the freezer.
COST of material milk 8, sugar 6,
starch and flour 3, eggs 5; 22c ice and
salt 15 37c for 2 quarts of ice cream
or from 12 to 16 plates, according as
dished up, or 2 to 3c per plate.
NOTE It is very unprofitable to serve
ice cream in a half frozen state, in which
condition it is as heavy as water and
does not go as far. Neither is it good
or profitable when allowed to stand and
merely solidify or freeze itself without
beating. It will seem rich and soft
however hard frozen if it is beaten up
COOKING FOZ PROFIT.
65
although it may bo made only of milk.
It pays therefore to have a good freez-
er and sufficient ice to complete the
freezing.
200 Frozen Custard Rich.
4 cups rich milk.
12 tablespoons sugar.
12 yoDis of eggs.
Vanilla or other flavoring.
Boil the milk with half the sugar iu it
which prevents burning. Beat the yolks
in a large bowl with the rest of the su-
gar in and a half of cup of milk to make
them come up frothing. Pour the boil-
ing milk to them, then set on the fire for
not more than a minute, as if too much
cooked the custard will not come up
light and rich in the freezer.
Strain, flavor and freeze.
COST of material milk 8, sugar 7,
flavor 2, yolks 15; 32 ice and salt 15
47 cents for something less than 2 quarts.
About the same cost as pure cream, or
4c per plate.
201 New York Ice Cream.
Known as Delmonico's ice cream, but
most people are averse to printing it so in
every hotel bill of faro. Nearly the
same as the foregoing with gelatine ad-
ded to produce extreme lightness.
3 cups good milk.
1 cup sweet cream.
10 yolks of eggs.
A vanilla bean.
10 tablespoons sugar.
J package gelatine or less than
ounce.
Set the milk on to boil with the sugar,
gelatine and vanilla bean (or part of one)
in it The kettle should be set at the
side of the range where the milk will
heat up gradually giving the gelatine
time to dissolve, with frequent stirring
from the bottom. The sheet gelatine can
be used but is liable to curdle the milk
if allowed to boil in it, which the pack-
age kind does not.
Add a little milk to the yolks in a
large bowl to make them capable of be-
ing beaten up light. Whip them light
as sponge cake. Pour the boiling milk
to them and strain into the freezer.
Wipe the vanilla bean and put away to
be used the same way again. When the
custard has become cold and begun to
freeze whip the cup of cream to froth,
Btir it in and finish the freezing as
usual, working the ice cream until it is
twice its original bulk.
COST of material milk and cream 12,
sugar 6, gelatine 5, vanilla 5, yolks 12;
40 cents ico and salt 15 55c for over
2 quarts or, according, to the way of
dishing up, from 12 to 16 plates or 4c
per plate.
NOTE The genteel way of serving ice
creams in small individual shapes has in
it also the purpose of serving as a meas-
ure of quantity. Where there is an
abundance of good things served and the
ice cream is only one among many it may
be quite sufficient to make twenty-four
dishes of two quarts of ice cream, while
on the other hand in a saloon the size of
the dish is an object with the customer.
There are ice eream ladles made that
form the cream in conical and dome
shapes to go in the saucers, and these
can be had of different measures to suit
the particular case.
202 Corn-Starch Ice Cream
out Eggs.
With-
The former corn-starch cream has the
cream color; this is pure white and while
it answers to make at times when neither
eggs nor cream can be obtained it is also
valuable for fancy ices where different col-
ors are required, and besides serving for the
perfectly white it takes a handsomer red
color from strawberry syrup or other col-
oring than a yellow cream or custard
will. ' .
4 cups milk.
12 tablespoons sugar.
J ounce butter.
2 rounded tablespoons corn starch.
r,c
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES
Flavoring.
Boil the milk with the sugar in it.
Mix the starch in a cup with a little cold
milk and stir it in while the milk is boil-
ing. Take it from the tire and throw in
the small lump of b itter and beat till it
is dissolved. The butter is not so much
for flavor as to make the starch cream
white, opaque and smooth and not semi-
transparent like milk as it would be
without that addition.
Strain, cool, and flavor and freeze as
usual.
This kind will not rise and increase in
bulk much in the freezer as it is, but if
2 whites of eggs can be had whip them
light and stir in when the cream is nearly
frozen and it will make a difference in
the quantity provided rapid turning or
beating is resorted to.
COST of material milk 8, sugar 7,
butter 1, starch and flavoring 2; 18
cents ice and salt 15 33 cents for
about 3 pints or 12 plates, or 3c per
plate.
NOTE. As a rule the richer a cream
may be the more ice and salt it takes to
freeze it, and the less sugar in the
cream the sooner it will become solid.
The plain cream of the foregoing receipt
will freeze in half the time that may be
required for a rich yellow custard.
203 Chocolate Ice Cream.
It is never very good when made with
any kind of custard or imitation cream
and ought to be made only when real
cream is to be had .
4 cups cream.
1 ounce common chocolate.
1 heaping cup sugar.
1 tablespoon vanilla.
Chocolate cream is generally too
strongly flavored for the majority. The
imported sweet kinds are made of half
sugar and more of such chocolate can of
course be used, but the common unsweet-
ened is the kind generally furnished.
The ounces are marked on the cakes.
Otherwise use a half cup dry grated.
Boil a little milk with some sugar in
it, put in the grated chocolate and beat
up over the fire until it is melted then
strain it into the freezer, put in the cream
and eugar, freeze and beat up well to
make it a rich bright color.
The chocolate can also be mixed in the
cream by only melting it in a saucepan
set in a rather warm place, with nothing
added, but it does not do to pour it into
the cold cream without previously dilut-
ing it with a little thoroughly beaten in
COST Same as best ice cream.
204 Ordinary Frozen Custard.
1 quart of milk.
3 eggs.
1 email cup sugar.
J a peach tree leaf for flavor.
Boil half the milk with the peach leaf
and the sugar in it; beat the eggs in a
bowl, pour some boiling milk to them,
set on the fire again and in one minute,
or as soon as it shows signs of boiling up
again take it off and add the cold milk to
stop the cooking. Strain into the freezer,
flavor and freeze.
NOTE There is a point in cooking
custards when they are at the richest and
that is exactly at the boiling point. The
custard is then creamy and as thick as it
will ever be. A few seconds more of the
fire may spoil it or at least make it thin
and full of grains of curd. This is a
great point to know in making all such
sauces and soups as are thickened with
eggs as well as sweet custards. A pint
or two may thicken almost as soon as it
touches the fire but a gallon may require
several minutes .
The ordinary custard made as above
being less trouble to prepare than the one
thickened in part with starch is oftenest
mad where no particular interest is felt
in the quality of the cooking, arid earns
abuse often bestowed upon hotel ice
cream, nevertheless if half cream os even
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
67
a quarter can be had and the custard
is carefully cooked it may prove to be
equal to that made with all pure cream.
205 Bisque Ice creams.
Ice creams with a proportion of the
pulp of pounded fruit or nuts added are
termed bisques.
206 Bisque of Pineapple Ice Cream.
1 can pineapple or J pound.
2 cups sugar.
4 cups cream.
Chop the pineapple small and put it
in a bright pan or kettle with the sugar
and a few spoonfuls of juice or water to
dissolve the sugar to syrup. Simmer at
the side of the range a short time.
Whip the cream till it is halt froth,
then freeze it first by itself, because the
pineanple added before freexing has a
tendency to curdle it. Pound the pine-
apple and syrup through a colander, mix
it with ihe partly frozen cream, and
freeze again.
It can and ought to be managed to
have the pineapple in syrup prepared
beforehand to be cold. In making these
bisques it is not best to pound the fruit
perfectly fine but the small pieces about
like grams of wheat should be percepti-
ble and show that the creams are mixed
with fruits and not merely flavored.
COST of material pineapple 20, sugar
10, cream 24; 54 cents ice and salt
20 74 cents for 2 quarts or about 6c
per plate.
207 Bisque of Preserved Ginger.
^ pound of either preserved or can
died ginger.
1 cup sugar.
Juice of 1 lemon.
4 cups cream.
Cu the candied ginger into very
small pieces. Make a hot syrup of the
sugar with a few spoonfuls of water and
squeeze the lemon into it, then put in the
ginger and let it soften and impart the
flavor to the syrup. Put the cream and
ginger and syrup all together, freeze and
beat up.
COST of material ginger 30, sugar
6, lemon 2, cream 24; 62 cents ice and
salt 20 82c for 2 quarts or 12 plates or
7c per plate.
208 Italian Bisque Ice Cream.
1 cup sugar.
2 cups milk.
2 cups cream.
8 or 10 lady-fingers (pairs).
3 yolks of eggs.
J cup madeira.
Boil the milk with the sugar in it,
crumble in the lady fingers, add the
yolks and stir over the fire a minute.
Put it into the freezer with the wine and
cream, freeze, and heat up.
COST of material milk and cream
16, sugar 6, cakes 5, eggs 4, wine 10*
41 cents ice and salt 20 61c for 2
quarts or 12 plates or 5c per plate.
209 Bisque of Almonds.
J pound almonds.
4 cups cream.
1 heaping cup sugar*
Scald the almonds and take off the
skins. Pound them a few at a time in a
mortar with a little sugar and teaspoon-
ful of water. . They need not be a per-
fectly smooth paste, for the reason stated
under the head of bisque of pineapple,
but when all are pounded mix them with
the cream aad sugar and pass it through
a coarse strainer into the freezer. Freeze
and beat up as usual. This is perfectly
white.
COST of material almonds 30 r cream
24, sugar 8; 62 cents ice and salt 15
77c for 2 quarts or 12 plates or 6 or 7c
per plate,
210 - Brown Bisque of Hickory Nuts.
J pound of hickory nut kernels.
1 heaping cup sugar
4 cups cream.
Pick over the kernels to free them
68
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
from fragments of shell, and pound them
like almonds in a mortar with a little
sugar and a few drops of water added.
Only a few can be effectually pounded at
a time. They should be like meal, to
go through a coarse strainer. In order
to make the cream about the color ot
light coffee and cream and to give it a
good flavor put two tablespoons sugar in
a very small saucepan without water
and melt it over the fire and let it bum
to the color of molasses, then add a little
water let it boil up and dissolve. Put
the cream into the freezer, strain in the
caramel and pounded nuts and freeze.
COST 6 or 7c per plate.
211 Fruit Ice Creams.
These have the fruit mixed with the
cream either whole or in large pieces.
There is one rule to be observed all
through, and that is to add the fruit late,
when the cream is already frozen and it
is nearly time to serve it, for the reason
that fresh fruit freezes easily and some
kinds become as hard ;JB rocks and taste-
lees and useless. The exceptions are
the very sweet fruits which will not
freeze solid at all, and thoi-e made very
sweet like pbeapple stewed in syrup.
212 White Cherry Ice Cream.
4 cups cream.
2 cups sugar.
5 cups California white wax cherrie
J cup water.
Slake a boiling syrup of the sugar and
water, drop in the cherries and let them
simmer in it about 15 minutes, without
stirring or breaking. Then strain the
flavored syrup into the freezer and set
the fruit on ice, to be mixed in at last.
Add the quart of cream to the syrup in
the freezer, freeze and beat up well, then
stir in the cherries and pack down with
more ice and salt
COST of material cream 24, cherries
24, sugar 10; 58 cents ice and salt
20 68c for 2 quarts about 6c per plate
213 Red Cherry Ice Cream.
4 cups cream.
2 cups sugar.
5 cups red cherries.
J cup water.
Use only the light red cherries for this
purpose, for the dark kinds make an un-
pleasant color.
Boil the water and sugar together and
drop the cherries in. Let simmer at the
side of the range a few minutes without
stirring or breaking them. Then strain
the syrup into the freezer and set the
fruit on ice to be mixed in at last. Add
the quart of cream to the syrup in the
freezer, freeze and beat up well,then add
the cherries and cover down till wanted.
214 Pineapple Fruit Ice Cream.
1 can pineapple, or a pound.
2 cups sugar.
4 cups cream.
J cup water
Cut the pineapple in small dice. Make
a boiling syrup of the sugar and water,
stew the pineapple in it, then strain the
flavored syrup into the freezer and set
the fruit on ice to become cold. Add the
cream to the syrup, freeze and beat up
and stir in the prepared pinapple at last.
COST pineapple 20, sugar 10, cream
24, ice and salt 20; 74 cents or 7c per
plate.
215 White Grape Ice Cream.
Make the same as directed for white
cherries.
216- Strawberry Fruit Ice Cream.
1 quart strawberries red, ripe and
sweet.
2 cups sugar.
4 cups cream.
J cup water.
The fruit need not be cooked as in the
case of the preceding kinds, cover the
strawberries with the sugar and let then
remain some time to form a thick red syrup.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
Pick out half of them to be added after
the freezing, and rub the remaining half
with their syrup through a strainer into
the freezer. Add the cream, freeze and
beat up and at last stir in the whole
strawberries.
COST About the same as the other
fruit ice creams, varying with the price
of fresh fruit
217- - Peach Fruit Ice Cream.
4 cups of peeled and cat peaches.
4 cups cream.
2 cups sugar.
Peach extract to flavor.
Make a peach-flavored ice cream.
Mix some of the sugar with the cut
peaches and mix them in after the cream
is frozen.
218 Ice Cream With Strawberries.
Make any kind of plain ice cream or
frozen custard according to directions al-
ready given and dish up a spoonful of
berries on top in the saucer. Ice cream
with rasberries or cut peaches the same
way.
219 Frozen Puddings.
Sometimes called ice puddings. Some
are as cheap as the commonest ice cream,
others are quite expensive . They make
a welcome variation either to serve alone
like ice cream or for two kinds together.
220 Frozen Cocoanut Pudding.
4 cups milk.
1 cup sugar.
4 yolks of eggs.
J pound of grated cocoanut.
Make the custard as usual and stir in
the cocoanut while it is still warm after
straining. Freeze and beat as usual A
little lemon or orange flavoring can be
added.
The ordinary ice cream or starch cus-
tard can be used the same way as well
COST of material 25c per quart or 8
plates or 3c per plate.
221 Frozen Tapioca Pudding.
3 cups milk.
6 tablespoons sugar 5 oz,
2 tablespoons pearl tapioca.
Butter size of a walnut.
2 eggs.
^ cup cream to whip in at last.
Flavoring.
The pearl Tapioca is the most suitable.
If the large grained sort is used crush it
ou the table with the rolling-pin and then
sift away the dust
Steep the tapioca 2 hours in a cup of
milk cold, but set in a warm place. Boil
the rest of the milk with the sugar in it,
then add the steeped tapioca, cook for
15 minutes. Stir in the butter, then the
eggs, and take the custard immediately
off the fire, cool, flavor with vanilla or
lemon, and freeze like ice cream, and
when nearly finished add the ^ cup of
cream whipped to a froth, and beat well
COST of material milk 6, sugar 3,
tapioca and flavoring 3, eggs 4, butter
and cream 4; 20 cents ice and salt 15
35c for 3 pints or 8 to 12 plates, or 3 to
4c per plate,
222 Frozen Rice Pudding.
3 cups milk.
2 tablespoons rice.
6 tablespoons sugar.
6 yolks of eggs.
J cup of cream.
Piece of stick cinnamon.
Wash the rice; put it in the milk and
the sugar likewise, and an inch length
of stick of cinnamon, and let simmer
slowly at the side of the range until the
grains are tender about hour. Beat
the yolks with a spoonful of milk, poui
some of the boiling rice-milk to them,
then set all over the fire again about a
minute to nearly boil. Take out the
cinnamon. Cool, freeze, add the cream
whipped, and finish freezing.
70
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
COST same as tapioca pudding pre-
ceding.
NOTE. These as well as all other
custards and puddings are richar both in
taste and color when made with the yolks
of eggs than with whole eggs, and when
there is no cream to be had the whites
whipped to froth may be added instead
just before the freezing is finished. This
addition not only increases the volume
but gives the frozen custard a soft and
creamy taste.
223 Frozen Sago Pudding.
3 cups milk.
6 tablespoons sugar.
2 tablespoons best white sago.
Butter size of a walnut.
'2 eggs or 3 yolks.
J cup cream to whip in.
Flavoring.
Put on the milk with the sugar and
sago in it, stir from the bottom once or
twice lest the sago stick at the first heat-
ing, and let simmer until the grains are
transparent about 20 minutes. Then
add the beaten eggs and the butter, cool,
flavor and freeze and beat in the whipped
cream.
CobT same as tapioca and rice pud-
dings.
NOTE. The reason for using butter in
these preparations of starch, tapiaco and
sago is to whiten them. Without it they
have more or less of a bluish, semi-trans-
parent appeaaance that is not rich, but
the addition of butter well beaten in
makes the fluid portion white as milk
and leaves the grains distinct to show up
the compound for what it is. This is
especially useful to know when eggs are
dear and scarce and large quantities of
these puddings are needed tor hotel use.
224 Frozen Apple Pudding.
Freeze the following compote of apples
in one freezer and either of the three or
four kinds or frozen pudding of the fore-
going receipts in anno^her, and dish up
a half portion in the saucer with the
spoonful of apple ice in the centre.
2 or 3 ripe, mellow apples.
6 tablespoons sugar.
1J cups water.
^ a lemon.
Put on the sugar and cup water to
boil, and pare and cut the apples in small
pieces of even size. Put into ihe boiling
syrup a piece of the lemon rind shaved
off thin and more or less of the lemon
juice, and then stew the pieces of apple
in it, taking them out before they get too
well done. Set the pieces on ice. Add
the remaining cup of water to the syrup,
strain and freeze it makes a whitish
sort of ice and add the apples to it at
last and cover down with more ice and
salt to finish the freezing.
COST About the same per quart as
the rice pudding.
225 Frozen Nesselrode Pudding.
Glace Nesselrode or iced pudding. A
frozen custard made of pounded chest-
nuts, with fruit and flavorings:
1 pound of large chestnuts about 40^
1 pint of rich boiled custard.
1 cup sweet cream.
2 ounces citron.
2 ounces sultana raisins.
2 ounces stewed pineapple.
\ cupful of maraschino.
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of salt in the chestnut pulp.
Slit the shells of the chestnuts, boil
them half an hour, peel clean, and pound
the nuts to a paste, and rub it through a
coarse sieve, moistening with cream.
Then mix it with the boiled custard.
Freeze this mixture, and when firm whip
the cup of cream, and stir it in and freeze
again. Then add the citron cut in
shreds, the stewed or candied pineapple,
likewise the raisins, maraschino, and
vanilla extract. Beat up and freeze
again, and either serve in ice cream
plates out of the freezer, or pack the
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
71
cream in a mold, and when well frozen
send to table whole, turned out of the
mold on to a folded napkin on a dish.
COST of material chestnuts 20. cus-
tard (2 cups milk, 4 yolks, 4 tablespoons
sugar) 13, cream 6, raisins 3, citron 5,
pineapple 3, maraschino 20, vanilla, 2;
72 cents ice and salt 23 95c for 1
quarts.
NOTE. The foregoing makes about
enough to fill one of those brick molds
that have a large and deep stamped fruit
pattern in the lid and when frozen firm
it can be sliced into from 12 to 16 por-
tions. If dished up by spoonfuls out of
the freezer and made a little less heavy
with fruit it is practicable to make 2
quarts of the same material. When
chestnuts are not convenient some of the
large cafes use the ready prepared
pounded almonds or walnuts that may
be bought by the can at the confection-
ers' supply stores, and various additions
or substitutions of green candied fruits
are employed to make a handsome ap-
pearing compound without changing its
general character.
226 Tutti Frutti.
2 cups milk.
6 tablespoons sugar.
4 yolks eggs.
J cup curacoa.
cup thick cream.
1 pound of French candied fruits of
different colors or else use a mixture o*"
cut figs, sultana raisins, dates and greed
candied citron and Manched almonds.
Put a spoonful of sugar in the small-
est saucepan and burn it to caramel
not too dark and add a little water to
dissolve it. Make a yellow boiled cus-
tard of the milk, sugar and yolks, color
it with the caramel, add the curacoa for
flavor, strain, add the whipped cream
when cold and freeze and beat up. Cut
the fruits to the size of cranberries, mix
them in and cover down the freezer with
a fresh relay of ice and salt May be
served by spoonfuls out of the freezer or
packed hi a brick mold, turned out aud
sliced.
COST of material The same as Nes-
selrode, or about 60c per quart, depend-
ing somewhat upon the cost of the can-
died fruit and curacoa or their substi-
tutes.
227 Neapolitan Ice Cream or
Pocchi.
Occhi
Make 3 colors of ice cream or 2 creams
and 1 water ice in different freezers, and
when they are frozen medium hard place
them in layers as even as possible in a
brick shaped neapolitan mould. Let the
first layer, about an inch deep be of
rich yellow frozen custard made with
yolks of eggs and milk as already else-
where directed; having smoothed that
over spread another layer an inch deep
of pink strawberry ice cream or red
cherry water ice or other red kind, and
on that spread another layer of white ice
cream, either pure cream frozen or a corn
starch cream made without yolks of
e gg s > r e l se a white orange or lemon
ice. Three colors of cream are to be
chosen, however, in preference to any
water ice when they can be had, be-
cause they freeze of even density. A
chocolate or caramel cream will answer
instead of red.
228 Neapolitan Molds and How to
Manage Them.
Properly made molds have a bottom
lid as well as top. They can be bought
at the furnishing stores. The large es-
tablishments, however, find it less trouble
to use plain tin boxes almost identical in
size and shape with the common wooden
cigar boxes. They have a tight fitting
top lid, and before being filled are lined
with manilla paper, by means of which
the brick of ice cream nfter being firmly
frozen can easily be withdrawn It is
an advantage to use a paper lining in
whichever kind of mold may be em-
ployed. Where ice is plentiful, when
SAN FRANCISCO BOTEL GAZETTE'S
the freezers have been emptied into the
molds these may be placed in the same
freezers, well covered down and allowed
to remain there two or three hours to
become firm. If there is the least risk
o^ the inside not being cold enongh,
however, immerse the molds in a tub of
pounded ice and salt by themselves. Be-
fore doing so the joints of the lids should
be closed, if not made tight enough with
paper, by brushing with melted butter
to fill up the spaces where salt might
get in.
When the molds have remained in the
freezing mixture 2 or 3 hours wash off the
outside, take out the shape of cream and
wrap it in dry manilla paper and put it
back in the freezer, well packed, to re-
main until it is to be sliced and served.
All kinds of ice creams and frozen
puddings in single colros are thus frozen
in bricks and served in slices. When to
be served at a party table whole the
stamped ornamental lid may have the
fruit or flower form filled with a colored
ice that will show in relief upon the plain
form. These forms are served upon a
folded napkin in a dish, in some cases,
but are better placed in a silver dish
having a drainer bottom on the plan of a
butter dish.
Among the labor-saving expedients to
secure the ornamental tri-colored brick of
cream without making different kinds
the principal is the employment of the
prepared vegetable colors, to be obtained
of the manufacturers of flavoring extracts,
by which one large freezer of ice cream
may be made to take as many different
hues as may be desired.
COST of molded creams This is quite
out of proportion to the cost of ingredi-
ents. The extra time and labor and
consumption of ice probably will be found
to double the expense.
229-^Sherbets
Sherbets are water ices \uth either
calf 'sfoot jelly or gelatine or white of
e gg 8 * or dissolved gum added to make
them smooth and capable of being beaten
to a light and foamy condition. We give
examples only of the use of white of eggs,
it being the simplest and most generally
available, A remainder of table jelly
of the kind usually made for hotel des-
sert can be used in the same way.
230 Lemon Sherbet.
2 lemons.
1J cups sugar 12 oz.
3 cups water.
2 whites of esrgs.
Grate the rinds of the lemons into a
bowl and squeeze in the juice. Make a
boiling syrup of the sugar and half the
water and pour it hot to the lemon zest
and juice and let remain so till cold.
Then add the rest of the water, strain
the lemonade into a freezer, freeze as
usual, and at last add the whites whip-
ped to a firm froth, beat and freeze again
The scalding draws the flavor of the
lemon; it should never, however, be
boiled and fewer lemons should be used
when they are large. The sherbet is
perfectly white.
COST lemons 5, sugar 7, whites of
eggs 3; 15c ice and salt 15 30 cents
for 3 pints (if thoroughly frozen and
beaten) or 12 plates; or 2 or 3 cents
each.
231 Orange Sherbet.
2 or 3 oranges according to size.
3 cups water.
1 large cup sugar.
1 lemon juice only.
2 whites of eggs.
Grate the yellow rind of one or two of
the oranges into a bowl, squeeze in the
juice of all, without the seeds, and the
juice of half the lemon. Make a boiling
syrup of the sugar and half the water
and pour it to the grated rind in the
bowl. Let remain until cold. Strain it
into the freezer, add the rest of the
water, freeze, add the whipped whites,
beat up and finish freezing.
This sherbet is cream white tinged
with the orange zest and juice.
COST same as lemon sherbet.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
73
232 White Cherry Sherbet.
4 cups white cherries without steins.
1J cups sugar.
2 cups water.
2 whites of eggs.
Mash the fruit raw and thoroughly so
as to break the stones, and strain the
juice through a fine strainer into the freez-
er. Boil the cherry pulp with some of
the sugar and water to extract the flavor
from the kernels, and mash that also
through the strainer, add the other pint
of water and the sugar and freeze. Then
add the whipped whites and finish freez-
ing. This sherbet is not distinguishable
from cream as long as it remains frozen.
It is a good plan to drop in a few whole
cherries that have been simmered in
syrup, to show what kind of ice it is.
Canned cherries are good enough.
COST of material cherries 25, sugar
7, white of eggs 3; 35 cents ice and
salt 15 40c for 3 pints, or 3 to 4c per
plate or glass.
233 Grape Sherbet.
Only the kinds of grapes that yield a
colorless juice can be used this way.
The others turn to a very bad color.
5 cups sweet muscat grapes.
1 cup angelica or other sweet wine.
1 cup water.
1 cup sugar.
1 lemon juice only.
2 whites of eggs.
Stew the grapes with the sugar and
water, then rub them through a strainer
into the freezer, with the lemon juice
and syrup, and add the wine and freeze.
When nearly finished put in the whip-
ped whites beat up and finish tLe freez-
ing. Some ripe grapes of any kind, not
cooked, may be dropped into this sher-
bet as suggested for white cherries.
COST According tc locality and cost
of grapes and wine average 6c per
plate.
234 Pineapple Sherbet
1 can of pineapple or J of a pineapple.
1 cup sugar.
2 cups water.
2 whites of eggs.
Make a boiling syrup of the sugar.
the pineapple juice and part of the water.
Chop the fruit, simmer it a few minutes
in the syrup then mash through a strainer
into the freezer, using the remainder of
the water to help it through. Freeze,
add the whites whipped and beat up and
finish freezing.
NOTE. The canned pineapple is gen-
erally riper and sweeter than the fresh
fruit that ia sent to Northern markets.
When the latter is used it should be cut
up, have hot syrup poured over and al-
lowed to steep till cold. Two cans con-
tain about 1J pounds of pineapple. The
juice of a lemon is sometimes added to a
pineapple ice when the fruit is very sweet.
COST of material about the same as
cherry sherbet, or 25 to 30c per quart or
4c per plate.
235 Peach Sherbet.
3 cups of sliced mellow peaches.
1 large cup sugar.
2 cups water.
The kernels of half the peaches, or J
a peach leaf.
2 whites of eggs.
Make boiling syrup of the sugar and
water stew the peach kernels and put in
it a few minuses to extract the flavor,
pass through a strainer into the freezer,
freeze, add the whites and freeze again.
COST Same as lemon sherbet, 2 to
3c per plate.
236-Water Ices.
The same as the sherbets with the
white of eggs or gelatine left out, except
that as 11 rule they cannot be well made
with cooked or scalded fruit as sherbets
caa, but should have the expressed juice
of the raw fruit mixed with water and
sugar. Some kinds of fruit, especially
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL OAZETIE'S
cherries, grapes and peaches have the
gummy property that causes them to be-
come light and white in the freezer if
beaten much, precisely as if eggs or jel-
ly had been added; consequently when
water ices are desired to serve almost as
beverages at evening parties they are
better frozen in an old fashioned freezer,
scraped down from the sides with a
palette knife and not beaten too much.
237- -Strawberry Water Ice.
1 quart strawberries.
2 cups sugar.
3 cups water.
Cover the strawberries with the sugar
and let them remain some time to form a
thick red syrup. Pick out a few of the
berries to be mixed in the ice at last.
Rub the rest through a strainer into the
freezer with the syrup and add the water.
Freeze without much beating if a crimson
ice is wanted, and add coloring if neces-
sary. Throw the reserved berries on
top of the strawberry ice in the freezer
and mix them in when the ice is to be
served.
COST of material strawberries 25,
sugar 10, ice and salt 15; 50c for 3 pints
or from 8 to 16 plates or glasses, or 3 or
4 cents each.
238 Lemon Water Ice.
The same as lemon sherbet without
the white of eggs. A good strong lem-
onade made in the common way answers
as well to freeze; the difference is that it
takes three times as many lemons as by
the other method of scalding the grated
rind to draw the flavor.
239 Raspberry Water Ice.
3 cups raspberries.
1 cups sugar.
2 cups water.
Mash the berries and ougar together
and rub them through a strainer into the
freezer using the water to help when the
pulp is dry. Freeze without much
beating.
COST same as strawberry water ice.
Three pints.
240 Pineapple Water Ice.
Scald the the sliced fruit in syrup as
in making pineapple sherbet aiid force a
portion of it through a strainer that will
not let the fibrous part pass through. It
is the same as the sherbet without the
white of eggs, but will not make so much
in bulk.
241 Orange Water Ice.
Same as orange sherbet without the
white of eggs.
242 Cherry Water Ice.
4 cups sweet red or black cherries.
2 cups water.
1J cups sugar.
Mash the fruit raw and thoroughly so
as to break the stones, and strain the
juice through a fine strainer into the
freezer. Boil the cherry pulp with some
of the sugar and water to extract the
flavor from the kernels, and mash that
also through the strainer, add the other
pint of water and the sugar and freeze.
Beat the ice only enough to make it even
and smooth.
COST of material cherries 20, sugar
8, ice and salt 15; 43 cents for 3 pints or
12 glasses or 3 to 4c each.
243 Peach Water Ice.
Is best made with soft, raw yellow
peaches. Use the same proportions as
for sherbet; rub the pulp through a
strainer with most of the sugar niushed
with it, and make a syrup of the rest
and stew the peach kernels or half a
peach leaf in it for more flavor. Same as
peach sherbet without the white of eggs.
COOKING FOB PROFIT.
76
244 Grape Water Ice.
Any kind or color of grapes can be
made into water ices if not cooked. Can-
ned grapes will not do. Proceed as for
raspberry water ice. Use no wbite o
eggs-
245 Frozen unch es.
These are sherbets and water ices
with spiritona liquors added and are of
two classes. They are (according to the
French usage) Roman punches when they
are beaten up with meringue or white o
eggs like the sherbets of the preceding
receipts, and plain iced punches when
not so whitened and are in a semi-trans-
parent condition.
Some of these punches cannot be fro-
zen quite solid and must be served in
glasses in a half fluid condition as bev-
erages, on account of the spirit and sugar
they contain and all of them take more
ice and salt to freeze them than any mix-
ture without liquors. The stronger they
ore made the harder they are to freeze.
246 Roman Punch.
1 pint water 2 cups.
10 ounces sugar 1 cups.
1 lemon juice and rind.
1 orange juice only.
2 whites of eggs.
Few spoonfuls of rum or chablis.
Dissolve the sugar in the water, hot;
grate the rind of the lemon the yellow
part only into a bowl, and squeeze in
the juice and that of the orange and pour
the hot syrup to them. Let stand awhile,
then strain into a freezer. Freeze, and
when nearly finished whip the two whites
and stir them in and beat up well. Add
the rum, or the mixture of rum and wine,
or the wine substitute for rum, at last.
Serve in glasses.
COST of material- sugar 7, lemon and
orange 4, white of eggs 3, rum cupful
6; 20 cents ice and salt 15 35c forl
quart or 8 to 12 glasses according to
size.
NOTE Those who aim at making
these punches as smooth and delicate as
possible will put the 2 whites in a bowl
and whip them in a cold place to a firm
froth, then add two tablespoons of pow-
dered sugar and beat them together
about one minute, making a smooth cake
icing, and stir it into the punch when it
is first frozen instead of the whipped
whites without sugar. The difference is
not very marked and those who are in
haste will not care to stop to make the
icing, still others insist upon its supe-
riority.
247 Klrsch Punch Ronrtine.
2 cups water.
1^ cups sugar.
1 lemon juice only.
J cup kirschwassef email.
2 whites of eggs.
Mix the punch materials together cold,
strain into the freezer. When nearly
frozen whip the 2 whites firm, mix in
and freeze again.
COST ef material sugar 7, lemon 2,
eggs 3, kirschwasser 20; 32 cents ice
and salt 18 50c for 1 quart or 4 to 6c
per glass according to size.
248-^MaraschIno Punch Romaine.
2 cups water
1 cup sugar.
" a lemon juice only.
an orange juice only,
cup of maraschino large,
whites of eggs.
Mix all, except the whites, together
cold, strain into a freezer, freeze as usu-
al, whip the whites firm and stir in and
beat up well and freeze again. It is a
snow-white ice, rich and tenacious like
)ulled candy, The fruit juices are not
essential, but an improvement.
COST of material sugar 5, lemon and
Drange 4, eggs 3, maraschino 25, 37
sents ice andsalt 15 52c for 1 quart,
r 6c each person.
7G
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
249 Strawberry Punch.
3 cups ripe red strawberries.
1^ cups sugar.
l| cups water.
cnp angelica or any sweet wine.
Cover the strawberries with the sugar
and let remain some time to form a thick
red syrup. Rub them through a strainer
into the freezer with the syrup and add
the water and wine and freeze without
any extra beating.
COST of daterial strawberries 18,
sugar 7, wine 12; 37 cents ice and salt
18 55c for something over a quart, or
about 5c per glass.
NOTE In counting ihe cost observe
that the addition of white of eggs or
meringue increases the bulk of the mate-
rial iii tho freezer according to the de-
gree to which it is beaten and a punch
a la Homaine heaped in a glass like ice
cream may cost less each person than a
punch plain frozen of much less volume.
250 Raspberry Punch.
Make the same as strawberry punch.
Stronger wines can be used in it.
251 Regent's Punch.
cup gin.
a lemon.
cup sugar.
cup maraschino or half as much
kirchwasser.
1 cup water.
1 bottle eoda water (aerated lemon
mineral water of "soda pop ")
Grate the rind of ^ a lemon into a
bowl, pour in a spoonful of gin and rub
with the back of a spoon to extract the
flavor. Add the lemon juice and rest of
the ingredients except the toda; strain
into the freezer and freeze as firm as the
spirit in it will allow, add the soda
which should be ice cold and finish the
freezing.
COST of material gin 12, lemon 2,
sugar 3, maraschino 20, soda 10; 47
cents ice and salt 18 65c for 1 quarter
6 to 8c per glass.
252 Victoria Punch,
2 oranges.
4 lemons.
2 cups Rugar.
2 cups water.
J cup angelica or other sweet wine.
J cup rum.
2 whites of eggs .
Grate the rinds of 2 of the lemons into
a bowl, add the rum and rob with the
back of a spoon to draw the flavor.
Squeeze in the juice of all the fruit, add
the other ingredients and freeze. Then
whip the whites, stir in and beat up.
COST of material oranges and lem-
ons 14, sugar 10, wine 10, rum 6, eggs
3; 43 cents ice and salt 17 60c for
over a quart about 6c per glass.
253 Imperial Punch,
1 cup sugar.
1^ cups water.
J can pineapple, or 6 oz fresh*
1 orange.
1 lemon.
^ a nutmeg.
3 whites of eggs.
2 tablespoons each of maraschino, no-
yeau, kirschwasser and curacoa.
J cup of champagne.
Make a hot syrup of the sugar and
water with the nutmeg broken in it.
Grate the rinds of both lemons and one
orange into a bowL Grate or mash the
pineapple and put in and pour the hot
syrup upon them. Squeeze in the juice of
the fruit and let stand till cold. Strain
and freeze, then put in the liquors and
after freezing again add the whipped
whites.
COST
quart.
of material about a dollar a
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
77
254 Cardinal Punch.
2 cups port or other red wine.
1 cup water.
1 cup sugar.
1 orange.
12 cloves.
1 cup wine jelly (calfs foot or gelatine).
Bake the orange light brown on a plate
in the oven. Make a boiling syrup of
the sugar and water with the cloves in
it, drop the baked orange into it, add
the wine and let remain until cold. Then
cut the orange and press it for the juice
and strain the punch into the freezer.
Add the jelly and freeze. If in the sea-
son add red strawberry or raspberry
juice to heighten the color.
COST of material wine 40, sugar 5,
orange 3, jelly 15, 63 cents ice and
salt 20 83c for over a quart or about 7c
a glass.
255 Champagne Punch.
1 cup sugar.
^ cup water.
1 bottle champagne.
2 whites of eggs.
Dissolve the sugar to syrup with the
water, pour it and the champagne into
the freezer. When frozen add the whites
whipped up with sugar until like cake
icing, and finish the freezing. Serve in
glaspes.
COST The price of the champagne,
and freezing mixture added probably
25c a glass.
256 Fine Bakery Lunch
There are some large establishments in
the cities doing an immense business in
serving lunches of breads, rolls, coffee-
cakes, pies, p-istries and cakes with cof-
fee, tea,and milk and no meats beyond a
small reserve of ham sandwiches. The
lunches of this description are cheap but
wbere the goods are fresh made and of
the highest possible excellence and the
burrouuuings clean the extraordinary
numbers of customers that avail them-
selves of it make the business one of
great importance. Bread in every form
is very cheap diet ad cheapest of all
when raised with yeast. The dough
once made, a very considerable number
of different articles such as raised cakes
can be made from it easily. The first
requisite is good yeast and as the com-
pressed article is not everywhere to be
obtained, it often becomes necessary for
the baker to make his own, both stock
and ferment.
257 Stock Yeast.
Boil a handful of hops in a quart of
water about 30 minutes, strain the liquor
and put it into a quart bottle. Let the
bottle be only two-thirds full. When
cool put in a handful of sugar and a
handful of ground malt Cork and tie
it down. Set the bottle in a moderately
warm corner and let remain about 48
hours. Then boil ^ pound of hops in a
gallon of water. Put 4 cups flour in a
pan, pour the boiling hop-water through
a strainer on to it and mash to a sort of
thin paste. When cool add 2 heaping
cups of ground malt and 1 of sugar then
draw the cork of the bottle, mix in the
contents set the stock away in a jar to
ferment and in two days it will be ready
for use. Strain it into a jug and keep it
cold. It will keep good to start ferment
with for a month or more.
258 Common Yeast or Ferment.
Stock yeast is not used to make bread
with but to start ferment or common
yeast such as the bakers sell in most
towns.
Take about 24 potatoes.
2 pounds of flour.
4 ounces sugar.
1 quart stock yeast.
Wash the potatoes thoroughly, using
a brush for the purpose, and boil them in
a ketole of water. When done pour off
what remains of the dark water and fill
up again with fresh. When that boila
turn out potatoes and boiling water on to
78
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
the flour in a large pan and mash all to a
smooth paste. Throw b the sugar
Thin down with ice water till like thick
cream. Set the large colander over your
6-pallon stone jar (just fresh scalded out)
and strain the yeast into it When it is
no more than about milk warm mix the
stock or other yeast to start it. Let
stand in a moderately warm place, un-
disturbed, for from 12 to 24 hours ac-
cording to weather, activity, and need
of using. It will then be ready for use,
and should be kept cold.
COST of material potatoes 4, flour 6,
sugar 3, stock yeast or yeast cakes to
start with 10; 23 cents for 4 gallons.
NOTE The dry hop yeast cakes an-
swer very well to start the ferment above
described if used plentifully a whole
package for 3 or 4 gallons but are not
equal to stock in making articles good
and profitable to sell. Yeast also is sold
and is a source of profit where the de
mand is such that not much is left to
throw away, for ferment will not keep
long. The most of the cost is in the
labor of making it.
259 Common Bread Dough.
Aa a rule one-fourth yeast to three-
fourths water.
The good potato yeast with no germs
of sourness in it, such aa we have already
directed how to make, does no harm in
still larger proportions when the weathei
is cold or time of mixing late. Bu
the whitest bread is made when the
dough can have long time to rise, no
hurried up.
1 pint yeast
3 pints warm water.
1 heaping tablespoon salt.
8 pounds flour.
Makes 8 loaves of convenient size.
COST of material There are 12 pound
weight of material which make about 1<
pounds of bread after baking and th
cost per pound is according to the pric
of flour, with flour at 3J this small qnan
tity costs 3c per pound loaf.
260 Cream Rolls.
For about 60 split rolls.
3 large cups milk.
1 large cup yeast.
1 ounce salt. (A heaping tablespoon.)
2 ounces sugar.
2 ounces lard or butter.
4 pounds flour 16 cups.
Strain the yeast and the water into a
Dan and mix in half the flour. Beat the
.atter thus made thoroughly. Scrape
,own the sides of the pan. Pour a spoonful
f melted lard on top and spread it with
he back of the fingers. This is to
jrevent a crust from forming on top.
jover with a cloth and set the sponge in
a moderately warm place to rise 4 or 5
lours.
This having been commenced at about
8 in the morning beat it again about one,
add the salt and make up stiff dough
with the rest of the flour. Knead the
dough on the table, alternately drawing
t up in round shape and pressing the
pulled-over edges into the middle and
ihen pressing it out to a flat sheet, fold-
ing over and pressing out again.
Brush the clean scraped pan over with
the least touch of melted lard or butter
which prevents sticking and waste of
dough place the dough in and brush
that over, too. Where economy reigns
the strictest a little warm water in a cup,
and teaspoonful of lard melted in it will do
for this brushing over and insures the
truest saving and smoothest bread. Let
the dough rise till 4.
At about 4 o'clock spread the dough
on the table by pressing out with the
knuckles till it is a thin uneven sheet.
Double it over on itself and press the
two edges together all around first. This
imprisons air in the knuckle holes in large
masses. Then pound and press the
dough with the fists till it has become a
thin sheet again, with the inclosed air
distributed in bubbles all through it.
Fold over and repeat this process several
times. Then roll it up. Let it stand a
few minutes before making into rolls.
Persons in practice find it quickest to
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
79
pull off pieces of dough of right size and
mould them up instantly. Others cut off
strips of dough, roll them in extended
lengths and cut these up in roll sizes.
Mould them up round with no flour on
the board and only a dust on the hands,
and place them in regular rows on the
table the smoothest side down. Take a
little rolling pin it looks like a piece of
new broom handle and roll a depression
across the middle of each. Brush these
over with the least possible melted lard
or butter, using a tin-bound varnish
brush for that purpose. Double the rolls,
the two buttered sides together, and
place them in the pans diagon lly, with
plenty of room so they will not touch.
Brush over the tops of the rolls in the
pans with the least possible melted lard
again and set them to rise about an
hour less or more according to the tem-
perature. Bake in a hot oven, about 10
minutes. Brush over with clear water
when done.
COST of material flour 14, yeast 3,
milk 6, sugar 2, lard 6; 31 cents for 4 or
5 dozen, according to size or 6c per doz-
en. They sell 2 or 3 for 5c with a chip
of butter added about oz, 1 cent.
261 Graham Rolls.
This is for fifty rolls of small size,
2 pounds graham, not sifted.
1 pound white flour.
1 J pints warm water.
pint yeast
} cup reboiled molasses small
1 teaspoonful salt.
Set sponge with the graham at 9 or
10 as directed for cream rolls, at about
1 add all the rest of the ingredients and
make it stiff dough. Let rise till 4.
Then work the dough by spreading it
out on the table, with the knuckles,
folding over and pressing repeatedly.
Make into little round balls slightly flat-
tened, and if not p^nty of room in the
pans grease slightly between each one
with a brush dipped in melted lard or
butter. Brush over the tops with the
same, and set the rolls to rise about 45
minutes. Brush over with clear water
on taking them from the ovea
COST uf material flour 10, yeast 3,
molasses 3; 16 cents for 4 dozen or 4c
per dozen sold same as cream rolls.
262 Coffee Cakes.
2 pounds light dough.
4 ounces sugar.
4 ounces butter.
4 yolks eggs
Large half cup milk.
Flour to make it soft dough.
Take the piece of common bread
dough, already light and fit to be made
into a loaf, 6 hours before the coffee
cakes are wanted to be baked, place it
in a pan with the butter, sugar and milk.
Let all get warmed through and the but-
ter softened, then mix them thoroughly.
Next add the eggs and flour by littles,
alternately, beating the mixture up
against the side of the pan, to make it
smooth and elastic. Spread the last
handful of flour on the table, knead the
dough as for rolls, pressing and spread-
ing it out with the knuckles, and folding
it over repeatedly. Set it in a warm
place for 2 or 3 hours. Then knead it
the second time. Every time the dough
is doubled on itself the two edges should
be pressed together first When the
dough is good and finished it looks silky,
and air will snap from the edge when it
is pinched. After this second kneading
the dough should stand an hour and
then be kneaded once more and made
into shapes. The best shape is a twist
made by taking as much dough as would
make a cream roll size of an egg be-
fore raising, roll it under the hands to a
long rope, pinch the ends together and
make a long twist Rise in the pans 1^
hours. Bake in a slow oven 15 min-
utes. Brush over when done with
sugar and water mixed, and flavored
with vanilla, and dredge granulated su-
gar over. If to be made overnight with-
out light dough for a start, all the ingre-
80
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
dients can be mixed at once by taking
a pint of yeast and a half pint of milk
or nearly all yeast adding all the othe
articles and flour to make soft dough.
COST of material -dough 5, sugar 3
butter 7, yolks 6 milk, flour, flavor 3
24 cents for 30 cakes sell at 2 for 5c
with oz butter.
263 French Coffee Cakes.
The plain coffee cakes described in the
preceding receipt are the same that hotel
pastry cooks call rusks. They are not
so easy to raise and bake perfectly as
plain rolls, but where they are made in
perfection and nicely brushed over with
syrup when done they are extremely
popular as a lunch with coffee or milk;
but still more of a favorite is this variety,
called French. The same dough answers;
the difference is in making out, as these
have the dough brushed between with a
very little melted lard and rolled up so
that the cakes when baked will pull apart
in flakes and strings. The same as in
making split rolls. Wherever the butter
touches, the roll will come apart after
baking, these cakes having the whole
sheet of dough slightly brushed over
with lard or butter and folded upon itself
without further kneading, will produce
the laj-ers and flakes in the cake. These
are made in the shape of a large pretzel,
raised, baked, brushed over with syrup
and one, weighing about the same as one
and a half of the others, served to an or-
der. When a still richer kind is wanted
use the following ingredients:
1 pound light dough 2 heaping cups.
6 ounces butter nearly a cup.
4 tablespoons sugar.
6 yolks and 1 whole egg:
cup milk,
cups flour.
Flavoring.
If for ladies' luncheon or afternoon tea
take the dough from the breakfast rolls,
and, six hours before the cakes or rusks
will be wanted place it in a pan with the
butter, sugar, and milk and proceed ac-
cording to the directions given already
for coffee cakes. The best flavoring to
put in this dough is the grated rind of a
lemon and half the juice.
COST of material for the richest vari-
ety dough 3, butter 10, sugar 3, eggs
8, flour 3, milk and flavoring 3; 30 cents
for 3 pounds or about 24 rusks, b ; ins,
twists or coffee cakes, according to size.
264, -Cheapest Coffee Cake.
2 pounds light bread dough 4 cups
large.
4 ounces sugar J cup.
4 ounces butter or lard \ cup.
1 egg. (Not essential.)
Take the dough at noon and mix in the
ingredients all slightly warm. Knead it
on the table with flour sufficent. Set to
rise until 4 o'clock. Knead it again by
spreading it out on the table with the
Lnuckles, folding over and repeating.
Roll it out to sheets scarcely thicker
Lhaii a pencil, place on baking pans,
arush over with either water or melted
ard or milk. Rise about an hour.
Score the cakes with a knife point as you
put them in the oven to prevent the crust
puffing up. Bake about 15 minutes.
One of the attractions of this plain
cake is the powdered cinnamon and su-
sifted on top after baking, the cake
)eing first brushed with sugar and water.
Cut in squares if not baked in sheet
cakes of right size for <?ale already.
COST of material dough 5, sugar 4,
ard 5, egg, flour, cinnamon, 4; 18 cents
or 3 pounds enough for 8 five cent
sheets or 36 round plain buns.
265 Stollen or Picnic Bread.
1J cups water or milk
\ cup yeast.
1 teaspoon salt.
4 tablespoons sugar.
\ cup butter.
2 eggs.
1 nutmeg.
1 cup raisins
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
81
1 cup currants.
Flour to make soft dough 3 pounds.
Set sponge same as for bread with part
of the flour, yeast and water at 8 in the
morning. At twelve make it up into
dough and work in all the other ingre-
dients. Let rise until 4. Work it oc
the table, cut in 6 pieces, mould them
up into round loaves, make a depression
like a trough with the wrists along the
middle, brush one side with butter and
fold the two sides together like a large
split roll of elongated shape. Rise an
hour. Bake in a slack oven. Brush
over with syrup when done. The same
may be made by taking 4 or 5 cups of
dough from the bread, already light and
mixing the other ingredients in as for
rusks and coffee cakes.
COST of material dough 5, flour to
work in 3, sug^r 3, butter or lard 6,
eggs 4, fruit and nutmeg 20; 41 cents,
or 8c per pound. May be made in all
sorts of shapes and baked in pans or
molds to serve as a cheap sort of fruit
cake.
266 Cheapest Gingerbread, Yeast--
Raised.
4 cups light bread dough 2 pounds.
1 cup black molisses 10 oz.
1 cup, small, lard or butter 6 oz,
1 heaping teaspoon ground ginger.
Flour to make it soft dough.
An egg improves it but is not essen-
tial.
Work the ingredients all together
at about six hours before baking time.
Let rise 4 hours, knead it on the table,
taking care the molasses in the dough
does not cause you to take in too much
flour and make the cake tough. Roll it
out in sheets, tike up on the rolling pin
and unroll on the baking pans. Brush
over the top with water that has a little
melted 1 ird in it. Rise in the pans about
an hour, bake 20 minutes. Brush over
with syrup. GUI in square blocks for
sale.
COST of materialdough 5, molasses
3, lard 8, ginger 2, flour 3; 21 cents for
4 pounds. Size of cakes according to
lightess. Usually cnt into 12 five cent
blocks.
267 Currant Buns.
No eggs required. Favorite sort and
quickly made. This makes 20.
4 cups light dough 2 pounds.
1 small cup currants.
^ cup softened butter.
\ cup sugar.
It is soon enough to begin these 2
hours before baking time or before sup-
per. Take the dough from the rolls say
at 4 o'clock Spread it out, strew the
currants over and knead them in. Roll
out the dough to J inch sheet. Spread
the butter evenly over it and the sugar
en top of that. Cut in bands about as
wide a? your hand. Roll them up like
roly-poly puddings. Brush these long
rolls all over slightly with a little melted
lard so that the buns will not stick to-
gether in the pans. Then cut off in
pieces about an inch thick. Place fiat in
a buttered pan, touching but not crowded.
Rise nearly an hour, Bake 15 minutes.
Brush oxer with sugar and water.
Dredge sugar and cinn mon over.
COST of material dough 6, currants
3, butter 8, sugar and cinnamon 4; 20
cents or 1 cent each.
268 Cinnamon Buns.
The same as the preceding with the
currants left out, and some ground cin-
namon mixed with sugar that is spread
over the sheet of dough instead. Tht>
buns can be uncoiled after baking on ac-
count of the butter being rolled up in
them.
269 Plain Doughnuts.
4 cups light bread dough 2 Ibs.
J cup sugar.
2 ounces melted lard.
Lard to fry.
82
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES
Take the dough from the breakfast
rolls, say at 9 in the morning, in Winter.
In Summer the dough worked up at
mid-day will do. Mix in the ingredients,
let stand half an hour Work up stiff
with flour sufficient, and set to rise about
4 hours. Then knead, and roll it out to a
sheet. Brush over the whole sheet of
dough with a very little melted hrd.
Cut out with a large biscuit cutter and
cut tho middle out with a small one.
This makes rings, which must be set to
rise on greased pans about -J hour, then
dropped in hot lard. Sift sugar over
when done. They cook in about 5 min-
utes.
COST of material dough 5, sugar and
lard 5, lard to fry 8; 18 cents for about
24.
270 Bread Doughnuts.
Only plain dough, or French roll
dongh. Cut out biscuit shapes, let rise,
and fry. These are very often found at
railroad lunch stands; nearly as cheap as
bread and butter, and very saleable.
271 Bismarcks.
Sort of doughnut with stewed fruit in-
side.
4 cups light dough 2 pounds.
1 bastingspoon molasses.
1 bastingspoon sugar.
1 e gg-
1 bastingspoon melted lard.
\ cup ptewed apple or other fruit .
Lard to fry.
Put the light dough in a pan with all
the other ingredients except the fruit,
and work them together, and let stand
\ hour. Then add flour sufficient to
make a soft dough of it and set it to rise
about 4 hours. Then roll it out to a
very thin sheet and brush over with
water. Put a teaspoonful of fruit at the
right distances apart on one half of it,
fold the other half over and cut with a
large biscuit cutter do that the inclosed
spots of fruit will be in the middle. Rise
on pans like rolls nearly an hour, then
drop in hot lard and fry to a fine brown
color.
COST of material dough 5, molasses
and sugar 3, egg 2, stewed fruit 3,
flour 2; lard to fry 8; 23 cents for 20.
NOTE The mixture of molasses and
sugar makes a better color on the dough-
nut than sugar alone. Always, when
making any kind of fried cake take care
to have the sugar dissolved before it goes
into the flour, for mixing dry sugar in is
one of the main causes of such things
soaking up grease. It is an improvement
to dredge them with powdered sugar
when done.
272 Fried Pies.
A very good and saleable sort is pre-
cisely like Bismarcks except the shape.
Cut out large flats, wet the edge, put a
spoonful of fruit in the middle and double
the side over like any other sort of turn-
over. Rise an hour and fry. Another
sort of fried pie is made of common cov-
ered pie paste, in shape like a turnover,
with a little fruit inside. Close the edges
well Fry as soon as made, light col-
ored, in hot lard. The others are a kind
of fried bread and light. These are fried
pie paste, yellow and crisp.
273 Scotch Seed Cake.
Takes five hours time to make, raise,
and bake, using dough to begin with.
2 pounds light-bread dough 5 cups.
12 ounces sugar 1J cups.
12 ounces of butter 1^ cups.
4 eggs,
1 teaspoon caraway seeds.
8 ounces flour 2 cups.
Weigh out the dough at 7 in the morn-
ing. Set it with the butter and sugar in
a warm place. At about 9 work all
together and beat in the eggs one at a
time, and add the carraway. Give it
another half hour to stand and become
smooth, then add the flour and give the
whole ten minutes beating. It makes a
stiff batter not dough.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
83
Put it in two buttered cake moulds.
Kise about an hour. It should not be
too light, bake as you would bread, in a
slack oven, lesa than an hour.
COST of material dough 5, sugar,
seeds, and flour 10 butter 24, eggs 9;
48 cents for nearly 4 pounds or two
2- quart molds, or 12c per pound.
NOTE These raised cakes are like
freeh bread, cannot be sliced till a day or
two old without waste.
274 Scotch Tea Cakes.
2 pounds light-bread dough.
8 ounces sugar.
8 ounces lard.
1 teaspoonful carraway seeds.
1 pound flour.
The difference between this and the
proceeding kind is that this makes a soft
dough, to be handled and kneaded like
bread. It is less rich and requires no
eggs. Make it up the same way or like
the cheapest coffee cake and let rise in
thin cakes on jelly cake pans. Brush
over with melted lard when setting to
rise. Score the tops with a knife point
when they are light and bake about 15
minutes. If for sale bru^h over with
syrup and dredge with sugar.
COST of material 25 cents for nearly
4 pounds equal to about 3 dozen buns
or G jelly-sheet cakes to cut. Good hot
for supper.
275 New England Cake.
Make the Scotch seed cake but with 1
pound of seeded or seedless raisins and
half cupful of brandy and flavorings, and
omit the carraway seeds.
276 Yeast-Raised Plum Cake.
The slowest to rise. Use the liveli-
est dough, and in winter it had better
be saved over night and mixed up with
the main part ot the ingredients; add the
fruit next morning, and bake after din-
ner.
2 pounds light bread dough.
1 pound black molasses and sugar,
mixed.
1 pound butter.
6 eggs.
12 ounces flour.
1 ounce mixed ground spicefl.
1^ pounds seedless raisin?.
1 pound currants.
8 ounces citron.
Brandy, and lemon extract.
Warm the dough and all the ingre-
dients slightly. Mix well, except the
fruit and brandy. Beat the batter, and
set to rise in the mixing pan about 3
hours. Beat again and add the fruit,
previously floured. Line the moulds
with buttered paper, half fill and set to
rise again about '2 hours. Bake from
one hour to two, according to size. Large
cakes should have a coating of paper tied
outside the moulds to protect the crust
during the two hours baking.
These cakes should not be turned out
of the moulds till at least one day old.
COST of material dough 5, molasses
and sugar II, butter 30, eggs 12, flour
and spices 8, raisins 30, currants 10,
citron 20, brandy and extract 12; $1, 38
for about 8 pounds or two 2-quart moulds,
or about 18c per pound.
NOTE All of the foregoing articles
are made lijrht with yeast and all are
made by taking a piece of dough that is
already light either from the family bread
pan or bakers trough. A very good sort
of apple dumpling is cheaply made in the
same way of the same dough as for
doughnuts, the dumplings allowed to
remain in the pans long enough for the
dough to become light before baking.
The dumplings like the doughnuts and
all other varieties must have a slight
brushing over of melted lard to prevent
a crust forming on them and cracking
open while set away to rise.
277 Rusks.
These are slices of various sorts of cake
dried in the oven something like dry toast
84
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES
The coffee cakes previously described, \\
baked in loaves and sliced wben stale
make tbe best of r asks and for tbis reason
perhaps, have gained the name of rusks
when hot and in fancy shapes. But the
name is not correct. They are then cakea
or buns. The following are special
sorts:
278 Maryborough Rusks.
Make the common sponge cake called
eight-egg sponge cake in the index and
add to the mixture along with the flour
one ounce carraway seeds . Bake in long
narrow moulds. When a day old, slice
and brown the slices in the oven. These
crisped slices can be kept a long time,
and serve much the same purpose as
sweet crackers.
COST of material 32 cents for 32
elices, or according to size.
279 Anisette Rusks.
8 ounces granulated sugar 1 cup,
10 eggs.
4 ounces almonds,
6 ounces flour.
J ounce anise seed.
Mince the almonds as fine as possible,
without removing the skins. Mix them
and the aiiise beed with the flour dry.
Beat the sugar and eggs together about
20 minutes or until quite light, as if for
sponge cake, and lightly stir in the flour
etc. Bake in long and narrow moulds and
when a day old slice and brown the
slices on both sides in the oven.
COST of material 39 cents.
280 Russian Wine Rusks.
Make with the s ime care in beating
the eggs and cutting in the flour lightly
that is needed to make sponge cake
good.
14 ounces granulated suur.
12 eggs.
8 ounces almonds.
8 O'inces graham flour.
1 teaspoon almond extract.
Crush the almonds with the rolling-
pin on the table without removing the
skins, and then mix them with the gra-
ham flour,which should have the coarsest
bran sifted away before weighing. Beat
the sugar and eggs together in a cool
place about 20 minutes or until light and
thick. Stir in the flavoring and flour
and almonds. Bake in long, narrow
molds and when a day old slice and
brown the slices in the oven.
COST of material sugar 10, eggs 25,
almonds 20, flour 2, extract 1; 58 cents-
for 2J pounds.
NOTE. Rusks of the preceding sorts
may be seen in the windows of many of
the best confectioneries. They are a a
expensive as cakes and are sold accor-
dingly.
The way of mixing the sponge cake
batter for tbn two foregoing is for one
person working alone. The eggs and
sugar can be made perfectly light by
sufficient beating. If it is preferred to
separate the eggs and have the whites
aud yolks and sugar beaten separately
by two persons, observe to mix in the
whipped whites last of all, after the flour
and all else.
281 Sponge Cake Squares.
14 ounces sugar 2 cups.
8 eggs.
1 cup water.
18 ounces flour 4 rounded cups.
1 heaping teaspoon baking powder.
Separate the eggs, put the sugar and
water with the yolks and beat up until
light and thick. Mix the powder with
the flour. Whip up the whites. Stir
the flour into the yolk mixture and then
the whites. As soon as they are fairly
mixed in out of sight it is ready. Spread
it -k inch deep in a greased baking pan.
Dredge a very little powdered sugar
over the surface and bake about 10 min-
utes. When cold cut it into 10 or 12
square blocks.
COST of material 30c.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
85
282 Small Sponge Cakes.
Either the foregoing or the other
aponge cake mixture baked in any sort
of gem pans or small oblong molds. They
are among the articles that sell in large
quantities when well made, and being
light are profitable, h ey may be varied
by being frosted on top or in squares in
the pans.
283 Wafer Jumbles
14 ounces sugar 2 cups.
14 ounces butter 2 cups .
11 eggs.
18 ounces flour 4 rounded cups.
Cream the butter and sugar together,
beat in the eggs 2 at a time, add the flour,
beat well. Put into a ladj finger sack
or paper cornet. Make rings on baking
pans very slightly greased, and bake in
a slack oven. They run out to a fiat and
thin shape and become crisp and brown.
Need careful baking. If the first tried
loses the ring form altogether add an
ounce or two more flour.
COST of material sugar 10. bntter
30, eggs 22, flour 4: 66 cents for 3 J
pounds.
284 Drop Cakes.
1 pound sugar 2 cups .
10 eggs.
10 ounces butter 1 large cup.
^ pint milk or water.
4 teaspoons baking powder.
2 pounds flour 8 level cups.
Beat the sugar and eggs together a
few minutes, in a good sized pan, as if
baking sponge cake. Melt the butter in
a little saucepan, beat it in and the milk,
powder and flour. Beat up well Drop
spoonfuls on baking pans very slightly
greased and bake in a moderate oven.
They rise in the middle cone shaped
For variations sprinkle currants on top,
or a shred of citron, or gravel sugnr
The latter is crushed loaf sugar sifted
through the 1 holes of a colander and the
dust sifted away.
COST of material sugar 10, eggs,
20, butter 20, powder 4, flour 6; 60
cents for 4J pounds plain about 80 to
LOO according to size and lightneps.
285 German Almond Cake.
A cheap and simple sort of lunch cake
to be cut in square blocks Only good
while fresh.
8 ounces sugar 1 cup.
4 ounces butter J cup.
6 eggs.
1 pint milk or water 2 cupa.
3 large teaspoons baking powder
1J pounds flour 6 cups.
2 ounces almonds.
Little salt.
Mix up like pound cake by creaming
the sugar and butter together, adding
the eggff two at a time, the milk and
then the flour with powder and salt
Spread it \ inch deep in a greased baking
pan and bake about 30 minutes in af
slack oven. Mince the almonds fine,
after scalding and peeling them. When
the cake is done brush over the top with
syrup and sprinkle the minced almonds
upon it Cut in 16 square blocks.
COST of material 40 cents for 3J
pounds.
286 Corn Rolls.
The bakery name for them. Also
known as corn gems and muffins. They
are in demand like cream rolls and gra-
ham with coffee or milk.
8 ounces white corn meal 1J cups.
2 ounces butter or lard large egg
size.
\ pint boiling water 1 cup.
1 cups cold milk.
4 ounces flour 1 cup.
1 tablespoon sugar.
2 eggs. Salt.
1 teaspoon baking powder.
Sift the meal into a pan, place the
butter or lard in the middle and pour in
the boiling water and mix up Throw
in the salt and sugar. Add cold milk
and flour, then the eggs and powder and
86
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
beat up with the egg whisk. The mix-
ture is thin like batter cakes. Make
deep gem pans hot without greasing
them, eo that they hiss when the batter
is poured in then there will not be any
black marks on the rolls. Bake about
15 or 20 minutes.
COST of material 12 cents for 24 to
36 according to eize sell same as wheat
rolls, 3 for 5c with ^ oz butter.
287 Macaroon Cake.
A thin sheet of cake baked first, then
either spread or striped with cocoanut
macaroon mixture, baked lightly and
finished with spots of jelly.
For the cake:
8 ounces sugar 1 cup.
4 ounces butter J cup.
3 eggs.
cup milk or water.
1 large teaspoon baking powder.
Flour to roll out, or about 4 cups.
Warm the butter and suga.:? slightly, stir
them together, add the eggs, milk, pow-
der and flour. Work the dough on the
table ;md roll it out thini Bake on a
shallow pan to a light color.
For the macaroon paste:
8 ounces sugar 1 cup.
2 whites of eggs.
4 ounces desiccated cocoanut.
Little lemon extract.
Stir the sugar and whites together in
a small bowl rapidly for about 5 min-
utes. Add the extract and the cocoa-
nut. When mixed placfl it in cords
across the sheet of cake and bake again
in a slack oven until the macaroon on
top has a light brown color Place fruit
jelly in the hollows between the ridges.
COST of material 43 cents plain
with jelly 6 cents more for nearly 3
pounds. Cut in 18 or 20 squares.
288 Boston Cream Puffs or Cream
Cakes.
Common in the baker's shops, consist-
ing of two parts, the hollow shell made
with a cooked paste not sweetened and a
thick custard for filling. This makes
about 20.
J pint water 1 cup.
4 ounces lard or butter J-cup.
4 ounces flour 1 cup.
6 eggs.
Little salt when lard is used.
Set the water on to boil with the lard
in it Put in the flour dry as it Is and
all at once, and stir the mixture over the
fire about five minutes or until it has be-
come a smooth, well cooked paste. Take
it off and add the eggs one at a time and
beat in each one well before adding the
next Give the paste a thorough beat-
ing against the side of the pan for finish.
Drop portions size of an egg on ba-
king pans very slightly greased and
bake in a moderate oven about 20 min-
utes. Let the puffs bake slowly at last
and dry so they will not fall when taken
out. Cut a slit, in the side and fill with
pastry cream by means of a teaspoon
NOTE. The eggs must be added to the
cooked paste before it becomes cold, oth-
erwise they will be a failure. It is bet-
ter to use light weight of shortening and
full weight of flour, than to risk disap-
pointment by making them too short to
retain their hollow form.
It will be found when the first pan of
puffs do not rise perfectly that the paste
can be much improved by more beating.
Make them small for profit but large for
show if you want to please the party.
289 Pastry Cream or Custard For
Cream Cakes.
1 pint milk or water 2 cups.
4 ounces sugar J cup.
2 ounces flour J cup.
2 eggs. Very little salt.
1 tablespoon lemon extract, or vanilla.
Boii the milk a spoonful of the sugar
in it will prevent scorching mix ihe
sugar and flour together dry and very
thoroughly, drop them into the boiling
COOKING FOR PROFIT
87
milk and beat rapidly with an egg whisk.
When it has thickened add the eggs and
let cook slowly at back of the range
about 10 minutes longer. Flavor when
cool.
The foregoing quantity is right for fill-
ing the 20 puffs of the preceding receipt.
COST of cream puffs eggs 14, butter
8, sugar 3, extract 3, flour 2; 30 cents
for from 15 to 25 according to size.
Large ones sell at 5c each.
290 Corn Starch Cream Puffs.
Lightest thinest shells and in other re-
spects the finest.
1 cup milk pint.
J cup butter 3 ounces.
4 heaping tablespoons starch four
ounces.
5 eggs.
Boil half the milk with the butter
in it. Mix the starch free from lumps
with the other half. Pour both together
and let cook to a smooth paste. Add
the eggs one at a time after removing it
from the fire and beat thoroughly.
Drop spoonfuls size of guinea eggs on
baking pans very slightly greased and
bake in a moderate oven about 20 min-
utes. This makes 20 to 25. Fill with
the following:
291 Corn Starch Pastry Cream.
1 cup water or nrlk \ pint.
3 tablespoons sugar 3 ounces.
1 heaping tablespoon starch 1 ounce.
Butter size of a walnut.
1 egej, (2 yolks are better.)
Lemon or vanilla flavoring.
Boil the water or milk with the sugar
in it Mix the starch with a little water
extra; pour it in the saucepan and stir
up. Then before it has boiled again,
add the egg and butter and stir until
the mixture becomes quite thick per-
haps ten minutes. Flavor when cool.
Fill the puff with it by means of a tea-
spoon, the puffs being cut open at the
side.
XOTE The preceding kind of pastry
cream makes a good lemon cream pie if
a small lemon is added to it. Grate the
rind and squeeze in the juice.
COST of corn starch puna and cream
filling 27 cents for 20 to 25.
292 Transparent Puffs.
1 cup water J pint.
Butter size of an egg 1 ounces.
3 tablespoons starch 3 ounces.
2 whole eggs and 3 whites.
Make the same way as other cream
puffs. The use of them is to make puffs
different from other peoples and for the
following sort.
293 Cocoanut Eclairs-
Make 20 cream puffs of either of the
three mixtures above directed and take
care not to have the paste too soft through
the egga being very large or the flour
scant, as these should rise round and
hollow, and not run out wide on the
pans.
When baked have some grated cocoa-
nut mixed with granulated sugar ready
on a dish and roll the puffs in it, giving
a good coating. Set them in a warm
place to dry. If you use desiccated
cocoanut, mix it with syrup hot.
294 Cream Puff Tarts.
Line 20 common patty pans with a
very thin bottom of good pie paste or
sweet tart paste and put in each one a
spoonful of cream puff mixture the
same as for Boston cream puffs spread
it evenly, then bake about 20 minutes.
Have some syrup ready and brush over
the tops and dredge with either cocoa-
nut or chopped almonds. They are risen
high and hollow like cream puffs in the
baking and this surface dredging is to
be done while they are hot. After that
raise one end with the point of a knife
and insert a teaspoonful of any kind of
pastry cream.
COST of material about 2 cents each.
88
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
295 Chocolate Pastry Cream.
2 cups roilk 1 pint.
J cup sugar 4 ounces.
2 heaping tablespoons flour 2 ounces.
\ cup grated chocolate 1 ounce.
Butter size guinea egg 1 ounce.
1 egg (2 yolks are better).
1 teaspoon vanilla extract.
Boil the milk, butter and grated choc-
olate together, stirring with an egg-beater
to prevent burning. Mix sugar and
flour together dry in a pan and when well
mingled beat them into the boiling milk,
then set the saucepan on the Bide of the
range. Mix the yolks well with a spoon-
ful of milk, add them to the other and
let cook until well thickened. Flavor
with vanilla when cold. Use it to fill
chocolate cream puffs same way as plain
pastry custard.
COST of material 13 cents for
cupfnls.
NOTE The foregoing chocolate cream
makes excellent cream pies or tarts, the
pie crust to be baked first then the filling
put in and frosting over the top. The
common unsweetened chocolate is in-
tended. When the sweet chocolate is
used a larger proportion will be needed.
296 Chocolate Eclairs.
Bake cream puffs in long or ovel
shape, put in a small amount of cream
filling, then dip the tops in a chocolate
icing* made of
1 cup sugar.
4 tablespoons water.
2 ounces common chocolate.
Grate the chocolate and set it on with
the sugar and water to melt gradually in
a place not hot enough t buna it. When
it has at length become boiling hot beat
it to thoroughly mix, and dip in the ar-
ticles to be glazed while it ia hot May
be used also to spread upon cakes.
297 French Ceam Puffs.
All three of the puff mixtures preced-
ing are unsweetened and cook light
colored ; this contains a little sugar and
is consequently easy to burn.
1 cup water \ pint.
cup butter 3^ ounces.
2 tablespoons sugar 1J ounces.
1 cup flour 5 ounces.
3 eggs.
1 teaspoon extract vanilla.
Boil the water with the butter and
sugar in it, in a deep bowl-shaped sauce-
pan large enough to finish the paste in.
Put in the flour all at once and stir until
you have a stiff, smooth paste, or about
5 minutes. Take it from the fire, drop
in one egg at a time and beat it in thor-
oughly before adding another. When
all are in give the paste a very thorough
beating against the side of the saucepan.
Drop pieces in either round or egg shapes
on a baking pan very slightly greased.
Bake them about 20 minutes in a mode-
rate oven. They rise rounded and hol-
low. Cut a slit in the side and fill with
my sort of pastry cream or with fruit
298 Coffee Pastry Cream.
1 cup clear very strong coffee.
1 cup cream.
\ cup sugar 4 ounces.
\ cup flour 2 ounces.
2 eggs (4 yolks make it better.)
Set the coffee and cream on to boil.
Mix the sugar and flour together dry
then drop them into the boiling liquid
and beat up rapidly with an egg beater.
(This is the quickest and easiest way of
thickening all flour custards and pudding
sauces). When it has thickened add
the eggs slightly beaten and cook 5 min-
utes more. Use to fill cream puffs or
cakes or tarts, or make coffee cream pie
with frosting on top.
COST of French cream puffs the paste
16, coffee pastry cream 16; 32 cents for
16. With jelly for filling about the same.
Large puffs sell 6c each. May be
brushed over the top with sugar slightly
wetted, and then dried.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
89
299 Cream Cake or Washington Pie.
Consists of two layers of cako with
pastry cream spread between like jelly
cake an d either powdered sugar or plain
icing on top. For the cake take
1 cup sugar 8 ounces.
5 eggs.
cup butter 4 ounces.
\ cnp water large measure.
2 teaspoons baking powder.
3 cups flour.
Put the sugar, eggs and water into a
pan and beat them together a minute or
two. Have the butter melted and stir
it in, then the powder and flour. Beat
all well together. Bake thinly spread on
jelly cake pans or on a large baking pan
to cut in squares. There are cheaper
mixtures that can be used for the same
purpose but this if well made with suffi-
cient powder rises very light and makes
a large amount. Spread the same pastry
cream between that is directed for cream
puffs.
COST of material cake 26, pastry
cream 13 39 cents.
300 Napoleon Cake.
Consists of two layers of puff paste
baked separately, pastry cream spread
upon one the other placed on top, and
icing sugar slightly wetted spread upon
that.
Make puff paste with three quarters of
a pound of butter to a pound of flour.
Roll it and fold it only 6 times instead
of 7 as for tarts. Cut in two, roll out
thin, place the sheets of paste on two
baking pans and after baking light col-
ored place one on the other prepared as
above directed. The corn starch pastry
cream may be used. The glaze for the
top is the same as pearl glaze for angel
food. Cut in squares when finished.
COST of material puff paste 24, pas-
try cream 13, glace 3; 40 cents, or same
as Washington pie. Can be cut in 8 or
10 ten-cent squares, according to light-
ness.
NOTE In order to handle sheets of
puff paste without breaking; it ia neces-
sary to roll up the raw paste on the
rolling-pin and unroll it on the pan it is
to be baked on, never touching it with
the hands. Take up the sheet of paste
after baking by sliding two broad knives
under, or paddles made of shingles.
301 Saratoga Cake.
Bake two sheets of puff paste the same
as for Napoleon cake. Spread fruit jelly,
preserves or some good fruit stewed
down rich upon one sheet, place the oth-
er sheet on top and cover that with frost-
ing, the same as for lemon pies. Cut in
squares.
COST of material about 40c, or ac-
cording to kind of jelly or jam used.
302 Florentine Pastry.
Consists of a bottom crust of rich pie
paste in a broad baking pan with jam or
good fruit stewed down with sugar,
baked in it, and a covering of frosting
the same as for leinon pie or strawberry
meringue well sprinkled over with shred
almonds and slightly baked.
303 English Fruit Pies.
These sell well at the bakeries. Take
deep dishes such as are used to dish up
vegetables in at dinner, but about 6 or
7 inch size, nearly fill with any kind of
berries in season, cover with sufficient
sugar and put on a thin top crust of good
short paste. Cut around the edges,
make a small hole in the middle of the
lid. Bake about 15 minutes. There is
no bottom crust and all the fruit juice is
retained in full flavor.
COST of material crust each 1J
cents, berries average including straw-
berries 4c. Sell at lOc each,
304 Iced Coffee.
Served in a tall glass like lemonade,
with two straws and shaved ice in it. .
For a single glass take
2 large teaspoons powdered sngar.
90
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
4 tablespoons rich milk.
A small cup coffee.
Some shaved ice.
Shake up with a tin punch mixer over
the glass (bar-keepers fashion) and serve
with the foam on top. The foaming ap-
pearance may be increased by one raw
egg to a pint beaten up in the milk that
is used, and gives it a cream color.
COST of material 2 cents per glass.
OYSTER BAY.
305 Raw Oysters Half Shell.
Open the oysters as they are called
for, loosen from the shell, serve in the
best shell with as much of their own
liquor as can be saved, ranged on a plate
with half a lemon in the center. Shred
cabbage, crackers, butter and table sau-
ces go free.
306 Raw Oysters Bulk.
"Counts" are the largest same thing
as "Saddle Rocks. " "Selects" next Lar-
gest. Serve a dozen on the plate. Lem-
on, if called for, in a small glass dish at
the side.
COST according to the price of oys-
ters with oysters 'at $1,00 per 100
oysters 12, lemon , crackers 1, butter
2, tomato ketchup etc., 1; 17 cents a.
dozen. Small oysters only half the
price.
307 Oyster Stei
It is a dozen medium oysters with a
pint or k-ss of milk and perhaps a small
allowance of butter; with crackers, but-
ter and pickles on the table. Cook the
oysters and milk in separate saucepans.
Dip the oysters from the saucepan into
the bowl, add a ladleful of milk and a
small piece of fresh butter. Serve crack-
ers, butter and shred cabbage separately
with the stew.
COST of material oysters 7, milk 3,
table extras 4; 14 cents.
NOTE Oysters do not always cuddle
the milk when boiled in it, but there is
always a danger that they may, so the
rule is not to run any risk. Besides, to
cook the oysters in the milk although
good for flavor, always makes a dingy
looking stew with a scum on top. To
obtain the best qualit) and appearance
boil some oyster liquor separately and
keep it ready for orders. As it reaches
boiling point the scum on top can be
skimmed off and after that pour it
through a fine strainer into a clean sauce-
pan, and you have the oyster essence
clear and ready for use without detri-
ment to the appearances.
308 Plain Stew.
The oysters cooked as above with
the liquor only served with them, and
no milk.
NOTE It is with cooking an oyster as
with cooking an egg. It tnay be either
soft boiled or hard boiled, "only there
is a difference that an oyster boiled hard
is spoiled. To cook oysters for stews
set some of the liquor that has been pre-
viously boiled and strained as directed
above, on the lange in a little saucepan
and drop in the oysters with a fork. Add
a pinch of salt and pepper, shake them
back and forth while heating and as soon
as the liquor fairly boils they are done.
Time about 3 minutes for one stew.
309 Dry Stew.
The same as plain stew but served
without the liquor. Have a spoonful of
fresh butter ready melted at a conven-
ient place and pour it to the oysters in
the bowl after they have been dipped up
out of their liquor with a strainer.
COOKING FOB PROFIT.
91
310 Boston Fancy Stew.
Make a milk stew in the same style,
and a thin slice of battered toast U
a broad and shallow bowl. Put the
battered toast in the bowl, dish the oys-
ters (soft cooked) on the toast and pour
the liquor in at the side, enough to make
it float.
COST of material 12 large oysters 12,
milk 4, buttered toast 1, table extras 3;
20 cents.
311 Box Stew.
The richest stew that can be made
and with the very largest oysters, called
Fulton Market box oysters.
Prepare a square of buttered toast the
same as for Boston fancy and put it
in a hot bowl. Take a bastingspoon of
cream and put it into a bastingspoon of
clear oyster liquor that has been boiled
before, and add an ounce of best butter.
Cook the oysters in another saucepan.
When soft done dish them on the toast
in the bowl and pour the cream liquor
around.
COST of material 12 extra fine oys-
ters 24, cream 2, butter and toast 4,
table extras, lemon etc., 5; 35 cents.
Sells at 60 cents.
312 Oysters Sawteed in Butter.
Not necessary to use eggs. Drop the
oysters into a plate of cracker meal and
give them a good coating. Be careful not
to rub it off as it will not stick a second
time Drop an ounce of butter in the
frying pan, and when melted lay in the
oysters close together. Cook over a
brisk fire to get brown on one side with-
out hardening them. Lay a small plate
upside down on the oysters, turn over
the pan, then slide the cake of oysters
from the plate into the pan again without
letting them break apart, aud brown the
other side. Serve on the plate set in
another plate. Ornament with lemon
and parsley. There are oval shaped
pans for such sautees as this, to be in
shape for a platter.
COST of material 12 medium oysters
7, butter 2, cracker meal 1, lemon and
parsley garnish 1, table extras 4, 15
cents.
313 Fried Oysters. Single Breaded.
Dry the oysters by pressing with a
napkin. Drop them into beaten egg, in
which is a little salt, and out of that
into craker meal. Give them a good
coating by pressing, with care not to
rub, or leave a bare place for the grease
to get in. Drop them singly into a fry-
ing pan of hot lard . Fry brown in 2 or
3 minutes. Dish neatly in tbe middle
of a hot platter with a piece of lemon
and sprigs of parsley
COST of material oysters 12, eggs 3,
meal 1, lard to fry 2, lemon and parsley
garnish 1, table extras 4; 23 cents.
NOTE The way of frying oysters suc-
cessfully without the use of eggs has been
fully explained in a former receipt. It
needs more care than when eggs are used,
but may effect a great saving in the
season when eggs are dearest. Even
with that fried oysters are expensive
over the other methods of cooking be-
cause of the lard destroyed. At the
end of a meal the craker sediment will
have made the lard used dark and unfit
for further use, and if clarified of that
there still remains a sort of mucilage
from the oysters that makes the lard boil
over like butter melting, and almost use-
less. Consequently the charge for fries
is, and has to be, higher than for other
styles.
314 Fried Oysters. Double Breaded
Out of their own liquor into cracker-
meal, coat well, dip in beaten egg and*
then in cracker-meal again. Fry 4 or
5 minutes. Oysters look twice as large
as they really are, when double breaded.
COST. They take up more egg but
the expense is made up in the apparent
92
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
increase in the size, and when they are
carefully cooked of a light color am
crisp the double breading is preferred bj
most customers.
315 Broiled Oysters, Bread-Crumbed
The original meaning of breading has
nearly been forgotten, so much better fo:
most purposes is the meal of crushed anc
sifted crackers than grated dry bread
But the Bmallness of the demand for
breaded oysters broiled a way that ovei
the w iter is considered most delicate is
protf that cracker-meal is not the thine
for it.
Oysters breaded in cracker-meal, then
broiled, unless they are deluged with
butter, are more like discolored pieces ol
buckskin than anything: eatable,
Grate a stale loaf of bread or else
mince the thin slices extremely fine with
a knife. Shake the oysters about in a
little beaten egg, dip them in the bread
crumbs and gently press a coating on
both sides. It is better to let them lie
in the crumbs awhile if there is time .
Brush the wire oyster broiler with a
brush dipped in butter,place the oysters,
shut down the other side and as soon as
the egg is set with the heat of the bright
coals baste the oysters on both sides
with the same brush in butter. Get a
toaet-brown on both sides without cook-
ing the oysters too much. Serve on a
dish the same as tried oysters, with a
piece of lemon.
COST of material oysters 12, bread
1, egg 2, butter 3, table extras 4: 22
cents.
NOTE. Where silver-plated griddles
and silver wire broilers are used it is
practicable to dispense with the butter
.basting altogether, and prevent sticking
by rubbing the bars with chalk Some
of the greatest restaurants of the two
continents have had a sort of specialty
in this line, and probably proved not
only the desirableness but the real econ-
omy of the mode.
316 Plain Broiled Oysters on Toast.
Take ihe largest oysters >btainable.
Brush the wire oyster broiler with soft-
ened butter, lay in the oysters and broil
over a hot fire 2 or 3 minutes, basting
once on each side with the butter brush.
Dish side by side on one long slice of
buttered toast in a dish. Garnish with
lemon and parsley.
COST. Largest oysters one dozen
24, butter 2, toast 1, garnish 3, table
extras 5; 35 cents Sells at 50c, or ac-
cording to grade of oysters. There is
no satisfaction in plain broiling small
oysters.
317 Oysters Broiled in Bacon.
Dredge some large oysters with pep-
per and squeeze the juice of a lemon
over them.
Cut large slices of fat bacon as thin as
possible . Roll up two oysters together
in each slice, run a skewer through diag-
onally and put six such rolls on each
skewer crowded together to allow for
shrinkage, Bake in the top of the oven
for a few minutes, the skewers resting
on the edge of a pan with the oysters
raised above the drippings. Finish on
broiler. Serve on the skewers on
auttered toast in a dieh, and if common
skewers are used slip a ring of fringed
paper on the end.
COST of material 12 large oysters
15, lib bacon 15, toast 2, lemon 2, table
extras and potatoes 6; 40 cents.
318 Steamed Oysters. Shells.
Scrub the oysters clean in water.
Place the deep shell side down in the
teamer and steam them about 5 min-
utes. Take off the top shell and save
as much of the liquor as possible with
he oyster in ihe lower one. Serve on a
latter without seasoning or any addition,
except lemon in quarters.
GCOK1NO FOR PROFIT.
319 OystersShell Roast.
A bright and glowing charcoal fire is
requisite for this. The oyster ranges
are nearly all broiler and the bars are
near the coals. Scrub the dirt from the
shells of the oysters before cooking, with
a brush in water. Lay them on the
broiler, flat side down, and endeavor to
get the shell so hot as to slightly color
the oyster. When the shell begins to
open turn it over. Dish up in the deep
shell, the other removed entirely, and if
too dry pour over each one a small spoon-
ful of hot oyster liquor and butter mixed.
Serve a dozen on a platter, a half on a
fish plate, with lemon.
COST 12 oysters 12, lemon 1, ta >le
extras 4; 17 cents.
320 Oysters Fancy Roast.
Cut two slices of buttered toast to fit
a medium sized platter, when placed end
to end, or cut fancy shapes of toast that
when placed together will form a star
shape,
Roast the oysters in the shells. Take
them owt when done and place them on
the toast and pour some hot oyster liquor
mixed with cream over the toaet in the
dish. Garnish with parsley.
COST oysters 12, toast 2, cream 2,
table extras and garnishing 4; 20 cents.
321 Oysters Pan Roast.
An imitation of the shell roast.
1. Put 12 or 13 oysters in a bright
pie pan, with their liquor. Dredge with
salt and pepper very sparingiy. Drop
in some small lumps of butter and bake
on the top shelf of a hot oveu from 3 to
5 minutes. Slide them right side up
into a hot dish, and garnish with 1 or 2
quarters of lemon.
2. A ver] common way in restau-
rants is to merely stew the oysters in a
bright tin pan holding only about a
pint, slightly season, and serve them in
the same pan set in a plate. And, fur-
ther, in the same style neat lids are
used that fit the pans, to be placed when
the oysters are done and sent in so.
There is no difference, except in the im-
agination, betwixt that and a dry stew.
322 Oysters in a Loaf.
Take a loaf that has been baked in a
tin mold, such as the bakers sell; cut off
the top crust and lay it aside, remove
most of the inside crumb, then cut the
edge into ornamental notches or saw tooth
fashion all around. Spread a little soft
butter inside with the back of a spoon
and set the loaf in the oven to toast. The
top generally gets browned enough by
the time the butter inside is hot Make
an oyster stew in the usual way but
dredge in a few fine bread crumbs to
partially thicken it. Pour into the hot
crisped loaf on a dish, no cover.
323 Scalloped Oysters.
In a small deep dish or pan. Mince
some slices of good bread extremely fine
with your large knife and mix in about
a third as much cracker meal. Cover
the bottom of the individual dish with
these mixed crumbs, and on them lay
a dozen oysters. Dredge with salt and
pepper, and drop butter in small bits.
Cover thinly with crumbs. Have it
slightly rounded up in the middle.
Bake on the middle shelf one minute, or
until a light toast brown, then draw it
to the front and baste the top with oys-
ter liquor hot and with a little butter
melted in it.
Bake a few minutes. The object is to
get a good bake on top without cooking
the oysters too hard. Serve in the same
dish set in another one.
COST of material oysters 12, bread
1, butter 2, table extras 4, 19 cents.
NOTE. The appearance is much im-
proved if the oysters are scalloped in
metal shells made for the purpose, either
stamped heavy tin or silver plated.
Proceed the same as with dishes.
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES
324 Scalloped Oysters on Half Shell.
Oyster shells of good shape have to be
selected and kept for the purpose. One
large or two small oysters in each may
be scalloped this way. Dredge fine
bread crumbs in the shell, put in the
oyster, cover with crumbs and bake set
in a baking pan on the top shelf. When
lightly browned moisten the tops with
melted fresh butter and seasoned oys-
ter liquor. Serve the moment they
are doue, or the hot shells will make the
oysters cook too much.
There is another way of scalloping
them in sauce as directed for clams.
325 Scalloped Oysters for a Party.
Baked on a pktter of a size according
to number.
Put a border of mashed potato forced
like a thick cord through a paper cornet
all around the inner rim of the platter to
hold in the liquor. The inside scooped
out of baked potatoes is often the avail-
able thing for this.
Cover the bottom of the dish with
finely minced or grated bread crumbs.
Scald the oysters slightly in a saucepan
and then place them close together on
the layer of crumbs. Continue until the
dish is piled up in the middle and
rounded, with the butter, salt and pep-
per as in the preceding receipt, then mix
the oyster liquor with a little milk and
strain over the top. Wipe the edges of
the dish dry. Bako to get a quick
brown on top, on the top shelf of the
oven.
COST of material each dish of one
dozen 18 or 20 cents.
326 Scalloped Oysters for Hotel
Dinner.
The thing to be guarded against is
the getting it all bread and dry and hard
and for that reason uneatable These
proportions make it right.
8 dozen oysters and their liquor.
12 ounces 2 cups butter.
2 pound fine bread and cracker crumbs
mixed.
1 pint milk. Pepper and salt.
Use a shallow 4-quart milk pan.
Spread a little of the butter all over the
bottom and cover that with a layer of the
mixed bread crumbs.
Scald the oysters in their liquor just
enough to make them shrink a little and
place half of them close together on the
layer of crumbs. Then more crumbs,
butter dropped about in small pieces,
pepper and salt; then the rest of the oys-
ters and cover with the remaining bread
crumbs and butter. Mix the milk with
the oyster liquor, strain into the pan,
moistening the top all over. Bake from
20 to 30 minutes.
COST of material with oysters at $1,
per 100 $1,40 for 16 dishes, or about
9 cents per plate.
327 Oyster Patties White.
The meaning is that the oysters are
in a white sauce, for they may be either
white, yellow, or brown. The same care
tnat is needed to make a good stew ia
necessary also to make patties delicious,
that is, not to cook the oysters long be-
ibre they are wanted and not to let them
get done too much . If the rich liquor of
cream or milk and butter described for
the "box stew" were thickened with flour
just to the right point, then the oysters
lightly cooked in another saucepan, dip-
ped up and put into the sauce the. result
would be reached of preparing the oys
ters to fill any kind of patty cases with
the white preparation, if thickened by
adding raw yolks of eggs it makes the
yellow sauce, if with butter and flour
baked brown together and the oysters
lightly cooked , stirred in at last it makes
the light brown kind, To begin at the
beginning take for 12 patties.
1 cupful of oysters.
1 cup milk.
Butter size of a guinea egg.
1 taplespoon flour.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
95
Cayenne, salt.
1 teaspoon minced parsley.
1 pound of puff paste.
Make the puff paste shells first by roll-
ing out to a quarter inch thickness, cut-
ting out with an oval cutter and marking
the inside lid, with a smaller cutter as
previously directed for cherry tartlets,
bake carefully iu a brisk oven and when
done lift out the center with a knife
point.
Set the oysters over the fire to scald
in their own liquor, shake about until
they are set, but take off before they
boil.
Mix the butter and flour together in a
saucepan big enough to hold all the rest,
and when it bubbles up on the range be-
gin stirring in the milk, thus making a
thick white eauce. Let it boil up, stir-
ring constantly. Season with cayenne
and salt. Take the oysters out of their
liquor and put them in white sauce, and
then stir in a little chopped parsley. Fill
the patties, put on the lids and serve.
COST of material oysters 10, milk 1,
butter 2, seasonings 1, puff paste 10;
24 cents, or 2 cents each.
328 Oyster Patties Yellow.
Read the foregoing directions. When
the thick creaan sauce has been made
beat up the yolk of an egg with a spoon-
ful of clear oyster liquor and stir it in,
and add the juice of a quarter of a lemon.
329 Oyster Patties Bi own.
Put an ounce of butter and an ounce
of flour together in a small saucepan or
pint cup and stir them over the fire until
they are light brown, like the crust of a
well baked loaf of bread in color, or else,
if time cannot be epared to continue the
stirring, set it in the oven, for none of it
should be burnt black. When done stir
in gradually J cup oyster liqnor and about
half that quantity of milk, and salt and
pepper to season, and at last a table-
spoonful of essence of anchovies. Pass
the sauce through a gravy strainer.
Scald the oysters separately and put
them in the brown tauce. Use to fill
the vol-aiL-vcnt patty cases ot the forej
going receipts.
NOTE. The exercise of judgment is
required to have the sauces for such pat-
ties as are made by filling pastry shells
as above of just the right thickness not to
run out and leave the oysters bare and
dry inside, and yet not so thick as to
make the mixture a lump of paste. The
addition of the juicy oysters to the sauce
often thins it down to a degree that is a
source of disappointment to an inex-
perienced person. Moreover, the addi-
tion of yolks of eggs to the yellow kind
will not thicken them unless the boiling
be stopped immediately after.
330 Oyster Patties, Household Style.
Provide 12 deep tin patty pans hold-
ing each about -J cup;
1 cupful oysters.
1 cup milk
1 large tablespoon flour.
Butter size of a walnut.
Pepper and salt.
1 pound short pie paste.
Boil the milk, thicken it with the
flour mixed up with a little milk cold,
add a little salt and the butter and beat
until the butter is melted.
Roll out the common pie paste very
thin, cut out with a large biscuit cutter
and line the patty pans, put a few raw
oysters in each, sprinkle with pepper
and salt, nearly fill with the thick white
sauce previously made, cut out more
flats from the sheet of paste and put
them on as lids. Brush over with
mixed yolk of eg and water and bake.
Serve hot with a sprig of parsley on top
for ornament.
COST of material from 1J to 2 cents
each, according to size and richness.
331 Oyster Soup Common Lunch.
To make to order have ready somo
boiling milk and serve in a bowl.
96
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
1 pint milk.
6 oysters scalded in their own liquor,
and the liquor strained into the bowl
first Crackers and table sauces go
free. Price in restaurants 15c.
COST of material Oysters 5, milk 3,
table extras 3; 11 cents.
332 Oyster Soup Good Hotel,
1 quart "solid meat*' oysters.
1 quart clear soup stock.
1 quart railk.
Batter size of an egg.
1 teaspoon each of salt and pepper.
2 heaping tablespoons crushed oyster
crackers.
The stock is used on the principle that
the liquor that meat has been boiled in
is better than water. It should be chick-
en or veal broth slightly seasoned with
celery and parsley and other vegetables,
and should be taken from the top, clear
without sediment.
The things to be guarded against are,
not to get the milk curdled by boiling it
with the oysters, and to avoid having
the scum from the oyster liquor floating
on top of the soup. To get out of the
trouble shiftless cooks sometimes throw
the liquor away and wash off the oysters;
ot courpe that makes the soup poor.
Half an hour before dinner time set
the quart of stock on the range in one
saucepan and the milk in another. Pour
the oysters into a colander set in another
saucepan on the table and when the
soup stock boils pour a few ladlefuls into
the oysters, stir them and let them drain.
Then set the oyster liquor thus ob
tained over the fire, when it boils skim it,
then strain it into the soup stock. Next
throw in the oysters and when they be-
gin to shrink, showing they are fairly
hot through take the vessel from the fire.
Stir in the rolled crackers, (not cracker
meal from the barrel,) the salt, pepper
and butter, then at last add the boiling
milk and pour the soup into the tureen.
Sprinkle a little chopped parsley over
the top.
COST of material oysters 40, stock
4, milk 8. butter 5, seasonings 2; 59
cents for 3 quarts or 12 large plates, or
5c per plate. It should be observed in
comparing cost that the previous receipt
for the common lunch soup of the oyster
houses supposes a pint or more to each
person with crackers etc. , on the table.
A large soup plate is only half a pint
333 Oyster Soup French Way
This is for 25 or 30 persons at a res-
taurant party, or hotel dinner for 50.
2 quarts of oysters or 3 cans.
4 quarts of seasoned fish stock.
1 quart French white wine.
3 or 4 anchovies.
18 yolks of eggs.
1 pint of cream.
Salt, pepper, and white butter-and-
flour thickening.
Make the fish stock by boiling a 5
pound fish, or some eels, in plain broth,
with a head of celery, a handful or two
of parsely, salt, white pepper, the wine
and anchovies. While it is boiling pour
a few ladlefuls into the oysters and then
drain them in a colander and add the
liquor to the stock. When the fish has
boiled slowly about three quarters of an
hour strain off the ptock into another ket-
tle, add a little thickening, (roux,) let it
boil and skim it; put in the oysters an'd
while they are bearing the boiling point
again beat the yolks and the pint of
cream together and stir them in. Draw
the kettle to the side of the range and
watch till the s^up becomes smooth and
creamy but take care not to let it boil.
Taste for seasoning.
COST of material oyster? $1,50, fish
stock 25, wine 50. yolks 25, cream 15,
seasonings 5; $2,70, or about 10 or 12
cents per plate.
334 Brown Oyster Soup.
Take the preceding receipt for quanti-
ties. While the fish stock is in prepa-
ration fry a small carrot, turnip and a
piece of onion, all chopped small, in a
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
97
little butter till brown, then put them in
the boiling etock and let them cook in
it some time longer.
Make some brown butter thickening
(roux) by stirring together a cupful of
butter and the same of flour in a frying
pan and letting it bake brown in the
oven.
Strain off the fish slock into another
kettle on the fire. Add the brown thick-
ening, stirring lest it sink and burn on
the bottom. Add the oyster liquor and
draw the soup to the side of the range
to slowly boil and clear itself by throw-
ing up scum. Put in (he juice of a
lemon mixed with a little cold water
and skim when the soup boils up again.
A few minutes before dinner rime put
the oyster? into the soup and take off as
soon as it >nce more begins to boil. If
no anchovies have been ustid in the fish
stock to heighten the flavor a spoonful
of essence of anchovies may be added
to the finished soup. Season with salt
and cayenne.
COST of material oysters $1,50, fish
stock 25 butter for browning 15, flour
1, lemon 2, seasonings 5; $1,98 if made
without wine or $2,50 with wine, for 25
or 30 plates, or anywhere from 6 to 10
cents per plate.
335 Clams Raw Half Shell.
Wash the clams in water using a
brush, and wipe dry. Open and loosen
the clams from both shells. Serve a
dozen on a plate or dish with half a lem-
on in ths center. Oyster crackers, but-
ter and a dish of finely shred cabbage at
the side.
SELLING price, generally the same as
oysters.
Small or "Little Neck" clams only are
served raw.
336 Clam Stew.
Make as directed for oyster stew. The
smallest clams are the best for the pur-
pose. If the large kind are used cut
them in pieces after trimming and beard-
ing.
337 Clams Shell Roast.
Same as oysters.
338 Scalloped Clams Half Shell.
Prepare the clams precisely as di-
rected for oysters in patties, by making
a white sauce of half clam liquor and
half milk thickened and seasoned . Pat
in the scalded clams. Then put a spoon-
ful, or about two clams with the thick
sauce adhering into each clam shell.
Dredge cracker meal over the top and
bake on the top shelf in a hot oven.
Moisten the tops with the back of a
spoon dipped in melted butter. When
brown serve. About two to a dish for
hotel dinners, or by the dozen at a res-
taurant
COST About the same as scalloped
oysters.
339 Scalloped Clams Party Dinner.
Take the clams out of the shells and
scald them slightly in their own liquor.
Replace them in the half shell, pepper
and salt, and then cover with fine bread
crumbs, and bake quickly. Make a lit-
tle white sauce of the clam liquor mixed
with cream and a little butter and ppoon-
ful.of flour thickening, and pour a spoon-
ful of it over the clam in the shell when
it has become browned. Serve same as
oysters, on a small fish plate, with a
piece of lemon.
340 Fricasseed Clams on Toast.
12 large thin slices of buttered toast.
4 dozen clams and their liquor.
6 yolks of eggs.
1 pint milk.
2 ounces butter.
1 ounce flour.
1 lemon, cayenne, salt.
Boil the milk. Take the clams from
their shells and scald in their own liquor,
drain them from it and cut them in
pieces. Strain the clain liquor into the
milk, add a spoonful of thickening, the
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
butter, and the yolks slightly beaten
and salt and cayenne to taste. Squeeze
in the juice of the lemon. Then put in
the cut clams. Dish spoonfuls on toas
cut in neat shapes, or on fried crusts.
COST of material clams 35, yolks 6
milk 4, butter 4, lemon and seasonings
3, buttered toast 8; 60 cents for 12 dish-
es, or 5 cents per dish or depending rn
price of clams.
NOTE. The foregoing dish can be
made cheaper if desired by several little
omissions, and the breakfast or lunch
dishes contemplated will be large enough
for two at dinner where it is only a side
dish.
341 Clam Patties.
The same as oyster patties, or, with
the clams prepared as for scalloped or
for fricasseed clams on toast put into
pastry shells instead.
342 Soft Shell Clams Fried.
This is a large kind of clam with a
brittle shell. Cut off the leathery dark
portion that projects from the shell and
remove with knife and fingers the beard
and string from the inside. This leaves
Ihe clam in the ring shape m which they
come to market sometimes strung on
twine. Throw them aa they are taken
out of the shell into a pan of cold water
When wanted dry them between two
towles, dip in beaten egg with a little
water in it and then in cracker meal and
fry in hot lard the same as oysters. Drain
in a colander. Serve piled along the
middle of a large dish with a quartered
lemon and curled parsley for garnish.
CosT of material Clams at $1,50 per
100 15c, eggb 4, cracker meal 2, lard to
fry 4, lemon 2, table extras 3; 30 cents
per dozen. Usual charge 50 cents.
NOTE. Soft shell clams on account of
their large size and open shape when
cooked as above make a large and plen-
tiful dish, and a very popular one. One-
third as many are sufficient for an ordinary
breakfast dish for one person. The lard
required is not all used but allowance
has to be made for the damage as, after
two or three fryings the lard remaining is
unfit for further use.
343 Scallops.
The small, soft, white shellfish bearing
this name may be cooked in all the same
ways as oysters and clams, but is gene-
erally preferred breaded and fried.
344 Clam Chowder Coney Island
Style.
The clam chowder so popular in the
restaurants as a lunch dish is more of a
stew than a soup, being thick with clams
and potatoes; a large plate of it makes a
hearty meal for a person. It is conse-
quently unsuitable to serve as soup at
hotel dinners. The Coney Island chow-
der contains tomatoes and herb season-
ings. Take 1 quart of clams and their
liquor or a large can.
1 quart soup stock (or water).
1 quart raw potatoes cut in pieces.
1 large onion.
Butter size of an egg.
A slice of ham or knuckle bone.
1 pint tomatoes chopped.
1 teaspoon mixed thyme and savory.
6 cloves, 1 bay leaf, parsley.
1 teaspoon each black pepper and salt.
The different articles should be made
ready separately and placed conveniently
or use. Have the clams scalded and
;hen cut in pieces and the liquor saved.
Uut the potatoes in large squares and
slice the onions. An hour before dinner
put the butter and ham in a saucepan to-
gether, and the onions on top and set
over the fire. Put the cloves inside of
i little bunch of parsley and tie it and
he bayleaf together and throw in on top
>f the onions, and also the powdered or
minced thyme and savory, and put on
he lid, and let stew slowly. In about 15
>r 20 minutes or before the ham and
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
99
onions begin to brown put into tbe same
saucepan the quart of s*oup stock, the clam
liquor and potatoes, tomatoes, pepper
and salt and let cook until the potatoes
are done, then put in the cut clams.
Take oat the soup bunch and piece of
bam, let boil up once with the clams in.
It is expected that the potatoes will
sufficiently thicken this chowder without
the use of fiour but they should not be
allowed to boil BO much as to disappear
altogether.
COST of material clams 40, soup-
stock 4, potatoes and onion 2, butter 4
ham 2, tomatoes 6, seasonings 2, 59
cents for 3 quarts or 20 cmts per quart
or 6c per ordinary plate of pint. The
^first-class restaurant price per pint plnte
or bowl witb table extras added is 25c.
345 Clam Chowder Boston Style.
This is what is called the old-fashioned
sort, having no tomatoes in it. Make
the same as the foregoing but leave out
the cloves, the bay leaf and the tomatoes,
and pat in a pint of milk instead and a
handful of broken crackers.
346 Baked Clam Chowder Hotel
Side Dish.
1 cupful clams.
1 cup of the clam liquor.
1 cup salt pork cut in dice.
2 cups sliced raw potatoes.
1 small onion.
1 teaspoon mixed salt and pepper.
1 cup milk.
J cup crushed crackers.
A deep pan or crock that holds 2
quarts is needed to cook this without
boiling over.
Cut the pork in dice, put it into the
pan and bake it light brown. Take the
pan out and strew some of the thin sliced
potatoes all over the pork scraps and fat.
Shave some slices of the onion over them,
then half the clams, cut in small pieces,
then more potatoes, onion, and the rest
of the clams. Potatoes on top and the
crushed crackers over all Mix tbe quart
of milk with the clam liquor, add the
pepper and salt and pour it over the
crackers. . Brush a sheet of thick paper
with a little meat fat, lay it on top of the
chowder and bake in a moderate oven
about 2 hours. It will be partly browned
on top.
More liquid may be needed if the
chowder boils away fast. It is done
whenever the potatoes in the center are
done. Dish out spoonfuls on flat dishes
COST of material clams 15, pork 6,
potatoes 1, seasoning 2; 24 cents for 3
pints or 8 to 12 orders, or 2 or 3 cents
per plate.
347 Clam Soup Hotel.
1 can of clams or 1 dozen.
1 quart clear soup stock.
1 cup raw potatoes in dice.
Jcup crushed crackers.
1 slice raw ham .
1 heaping tablespoon chopped onion.
2 cups milk.
1 tablespoon minced parsley.
The soup stock should have been al-
ready flavored with vegetables in the
stock boiler. Strain the required amount
and set it over the fire,
Fry the piece of ham at the side of the
range brown on both sides, put it into
the stock, without the grease and let boil
in it for flavor, also, add the onions.
Scald the clams in their own liquor a
minute or two; take them out, pour the
liquor to the soup through a fine strainer,
and cut the clams in small pieces. Thirty
minutes before dinner throw in tbe pota-
toes and seasoning of salt and pepper
and take out the ham which is no
more needed in the soup), and skim a it
begins to I oil again. Add the clams
and boil a few minutes, and the cupful
of crackers and chopped parsley and the
milk which should be already boiling.
The care required is to have the pota-
toes done and not boiled away, and the
crumbled crackers just dissolved in the
soup without making it too thick.
100
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES
COST of material clams 20, poup
stock 4, milk 4, seasonings 4; 32 cents
for 2J quarts or 2 or 3c per
348 Clam Cream Soup.
Cut the clams in four and make the
same as directed lor oyster soup with
milk, and add a cupful of crushed crack-
ers at the finish for thickining.
349 Mussels Steamed.
Steam them in the shells until they
open, then pull of the beard and take
out the mussel with a knife into a sauce-
pan or dish. The way to steam them is
to first wash the outside thoroughly and
pack them in a kettle with only a little
water on the bottom to start the boiKng.
Put on the lid and set over the fire.
350 Mussels Water Sauchet.
The mussels having been steamed as
above and taken out of the shells into
a saucepan, strain the liquor they were
steamed in into another saucepan. Put
in a tablespoon of chopped parsley, a lit-
tle butter,salt and pepper and let it boil,
then thicken slightly with flour mixed
in a teacup with water. Put in the
mussels and serve with crackers, brown
bread or toast.
351 Mussels Stewed.
Having steamed the mussels and
taken them ou-t of their sheljs make a
milk stew the same as for oysters, by
boiling a cup of milk and adding half
cup of liquor from the steamed mussels
with butter and pepper. Taste for salt;
add a sprinkling of parsley.
COST Count about the same as oys-
ters.
35? Lobsters to Boil.
Have a kettle of water with plenty
of salt in it boiling briskly and drop in
the live lobster. If small it will be done
in 20 or 30 minutes, but a large OHO
takes three quarters of an hour. Cool
and keep it on ice.
353-Lobster in the Shell.
Split the Lobster lengthwise and serve
the half, the meat side up. Take off the
large claws and crack them and place on
the dish along with the half if it is a
restaurant order. Garnish handsomely
with curled parsley or endive and cut
lemons. When served at hotel dinners
they should either be small lobsters or
be divided by chopping through the shell.
COST. According to locality. Lob-
sters alive can be bought at one dollar
per 100 pounds in some places; in the
interior they cost ten or twelve times as
much Usual restaurant price with gar-
nishings and table extras 40c per whole
lobster or 25c hal
354 Canned Lobster in Vinegar.
Empty a can of lobster into a bowl
and pour plain vinegar over. Serve in
place of salad cold for dinner .
COST Lobster 20, vinegar 4; 24 cents
for 8 dishes or 3 cents per dish.
355 Lobster in Mayo naise Pastry.
1 lobster.
1 cup minced celery.
1 cup mayonaise dressing.
1 cup shred lettuce.
2 tablespoons olive oil.
3 tablespoons vinegar*
1 teaspoon made mustard.
Salt and cayenne.
2 hard-boiled eggs.
Take the meat out of a large lobster
and keep the handsomest pieces of red
meat separate after trimming all to a
uniform size. Shake them about in a
pan with a little oil and vinegar to mois-
ten them. Cut the other portion of the
lobster meat small, without mincing it,
bnt mince the celery fine and mix both
together along with a little oil vinegar
COOKING FOB PROFIT.
101
and mnstard, and pinch of cayeuue and
salt, then press it slightly into a melon
mould or some kind of deep bowl
Prepare the dish with a border of let-
tuce or endive very finely shred (like
slaw) with a sharp knife. Turn out the
shape of mixed lobster and celery in the
center and cover it all over with thick
mayonaise (No. 151). Place the red
pieces of lobster around the base and or-
nament further with quarters of hard-
boiled eggs.
COST of material lobster 25., celery
and lettuce 4, mayonaise 15, oil and vin-
egar or lemon juice 5, eggs 5; 54 cents
for over a quart or 4 restaurant orders
for 15c per dish, or 8 individual dishes
for 7c per dish.
356 Lobster Mayonaise Hotel
Dinner.
1. The same as the preceding except
in shape. Instead of the dome shape or
melon shape spread out the mixed lobster
meat and celeiy iu a flat platter so that
it will be an inch deep and spread the
mayonaise all over it. Keep it very
cold. When to be served place a little
freshly shred lettuce in the small dish, a
neat spoonful of the salad in the middle
ana pieces of red lobster meat around.
2. The dishes can be made to look
very neat and attractive by the way
above described of taking up spoonfuls
from a mass ready spread in a dish, (and
it is quick to dish up,) but another way
is to dish the lobster salad out of the
pan it is mixed in into the individual dish
with or without a border of green,
then on top drop a tablespoonful of may-
onaise, without spreading or smoothing
it, and garnish with quartered eggs or
or olives or a slice of lemon.
COST About 5c per individual dish.
357 Salad Cream Without Oil.
Icup vinegar.
Sp water.
ip butter 2 ounces.
cup yolks of esrgs 5 or six yolks.
1 tablespoon made mustard.
1 teaspoon sugar.
Salt, cayenne.
Boil the vinegar, water, butter and
salt together in a bright saucepan, beat
the yolks, and add to them some of the
boiling liquid, then pour all into the
saucepan, stir rapidly, and in a few sec-
onds, or as soon as the mixture becomes
thick and smooth, like softened butter,
take it from the fire. Add the mustard
and cayenne, and make it ice cold for
use.
COST of material 2O cents a pint.
NOTE. The foregoing is extremely
useful for making a salad of almost any
material; it should be practiced a few
times until the proper point at which to
remove it from the fire is well under-
stood. It is generally thickest and
smoothest in half a minute after the yolks
are poured into the boiling liqaid, and it
becomes thicker when cooled by being
set in ice water. It will keep a consid-
erable time.
358 Salad Cream Not Cooked.
The vinegar is boiled but not the eggs
and it is somewhat different from the
preceding kind.
cup vinegar.
cup water.
cup butter.
cup raw eggs 3.
ustard, pepper-sauce, salt.
Boil the vinegar and water together;
beat the eggs up a little in a bowl and
pour the boiling liquor to them, beating
at the same time, then put in the butter
either previously softened or in little
pieces and stir until it is melted. Add
a little mustard thinned down in a cup
first with some of the dressing.
359 Lobster Salad Made
Celery.
1 can lobster.
Same measure minced celery.
1 cup salad cream.
With
102
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETIE'S
Shred leltnce endive or cress.
Mince the celery very fine, but cut the
lobster into pieces size of beans. Put
the lobster in * bright pan, the celery on
top and the salad cream poured over and
mix u ( j lightly without mashing the lob-
ster to a paste Garnish the dishes first
with shred lettuce and dhh the lobster
salad in the middle.
COST of material 30 cents per quart
or 3 to 4 cents per individual dish.
360 Lobster Salad made with Let-
tuce.
Pick out the hearts of lettuce and pu
two or three of the smallest leaves in
each dish. Chop the rest only a few
minutes before it is wanted and mix with
lobster and salad cream the same as di-
rected for the preceding kind.
361 Substitute for Celery.
Use tender white cabbage finely minced
and flavor it with celery seed, celery
vinegar, or celery salt, or mix in a few
green celery leaves. It is good also un-
favored ana seasoned with oil and vin-
egar.
362 Lobster Salad made with Po-
tatoes.
1 can lobster
Same measure of cold cooked potatoes.
2 hard-boiled eggs.
1 cup salad cream.
Cut the cold potatoes in dice shape
and the lobster as near as possible in the
same form and eggs likewise. Put all
in a pan pour the salad cream over them
and mix by shaking up.
COST lobster 20. potatoes 2, salad
cream 10, eggs 4; 36 cents or 3 to 4
cents per individual dish.
363 Buttered Lobster on Toast.
Take the large and solid pieces of lob-
ster, cut them to an even size but not
very small. Put a piece of butter size
of an egg in a frying pan and chop it
apart with a spoon while it is getting hot
over the fire and when melted put in the
lobster, dredge with pepper and salt,
squeeze in the juice of half a lemon and
shake it back and forth. As soon as
hot through it is ready. Serve on thin
broad slices of buttered toast.
COST 34 cents for 8 portions or about
4 cents per dish.
364 Lobster Patties.
See directions for oyster patties of the
different varieties, white, yellow, brown,
in puff paste shells and in household
style and make lobster patties the same
way, but remember to season lobster
with a dash of lemon juice and cayenne.
365 Lobster Cutlets.
So called because made to imitate a
lamb chop or cutlet breaded .
1 heaping cup lobster meat 8 oz.
1 cup fine bread crumbs 2 oz.
Butter size of a guinea egg.
1 teaspoon mixed salt and pepper*
2 tablespoons vinegar.
8 lobster claws.
1 egg and one cup cracker meal.
Lard to fry.
Mash the lobster meat and the season-
ing ingredients together in a pan to a
paste, divide into 6 or 8 portions, take
them up with flour on the hands and
make into the shape ot small pears, then
flatten them, stick a lobster claw in each
one to look like the bone of a lamb chop.
Dip them in egg beaten up with a
little water and from tLat into cracker
meal and fry light brown by immersion
in plenty of hot lard. Better if you have
a wire basket to dip them and not break.
Serve with sauce, either tomato eauce or
tomato and creanL>Bauce mixed, or pars-
ley sauce.
COST of material lobster 12, butter
3, bread and seasonings 1, egg and
cracker meal 3, lard to fry 2; 21 cents,
or with sauce from 3 to 4 cents per dish,
according to size made up.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
103
366 Lobster Croquettes.
Instead of mashing to a papte as in the
preceding case, chop tbe lobster email
and stir in the bread crumbs, melt the
batter and pour in, add a little chopped
parsley and make up in pear shapes or
in any" other shape, and bread and fry ap
before
367 Shrimps and Prawns.
The small sea shrimp is generally eaten
in the shell, the head and tail only re-
moved, being more delicate flavor than
the prawn but too small for most culi-
nary purposes. The prawn is twice as
large. It is the pink colored large shrimp
of southern waters and is now readily
obtainable put up in cans ready trimmed
and shelled for use.
Shrimps of all kinds are first cooked
by dropping them in boiling salt water.
It is said to show that they were dead
when put in the boiler if they come out
ying straight at full length; and it is
considered they ought to be dropped in
alive and consequently quite fresh, when
they come out in the doubled form as
they are seen in the market. Ten min-
utes boiling is enough.
368 Shrimps in Mayonaise.
Put the shrimps already picked from
their shells in .1 pan or bowl, add a
spoonful of vinegar and the same of ol-
ive oil, a pinch of salt, and cayenne and
shake them 1 about until they are mois-
tened all over. Then heap them neatly
in a dish. Put a border of minced cel-
ery or shred lettuce around and a spoon-
ful of mayonaise dressing on top of the
phrimps.
COST A cupful of prepared shrimps
costs 25 cents, or twice as much as lob-
ster. The ways of preparing lobsters
serve equally as well for shrimps but the
cost should be counted doubleor the
25 cent restaurant dishes be about half
the cost of lobster salad.
369 Shrimp Salad.
Put the prepared shrimps in a bowl
with salad cream enough to almost cov-
er them. Prepare individual salad dish-
es with a border of fresh shred lettuce
and dish up a spoonful of the shrimps
and sauce in the middle.
COST shrimps 25, salad cream 5, let-
tuce 1; 31 cents for 6 or 8 dishes or 5
cents per plate.
370 Buttered Shrimps,
Warm up the prepared shrimps in a
frying pan with a little butter, pepper
and salt and serve them as scon as hot
through on a broad thin slice of buttered
toast.
371 Shrimp Toast.
Ponnd the shrimps to a paste-, season
pleasantly with salt, pepper, a elight
grating of nutmeg, a teaspoonful of lem-
on juice and half as much best butter as
there is shrimp, and spread it upon thin
slices of toast A breakfast or luncheon
dish.
372 Crabs to Boil.
Boil the same as lobsters. The large
deep-water crabs take the same length
of time. Soft shells are done in ten or
fifteen minutes. Use the large ones if
possible for salads and to dress cold.
373 Soft Shell Crabs, Boiled.
As served in the restaurants every
part of a soft shell crab is eaten, shell,
claws and all, except the eand pouch on
the under side, but the small claws
should be taken off when the crabs are
to be cooked by boiling.
Drop the crabs into boiling water al-
ready well salted, cook 10 or 15 minutes,
drain, and serve with a sauce at the
side.
Tomato ketchup, mayonaise sauce, hot
cream sauce or butter or parsley sauce
are suitable kiuds.
104
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZEITES
374 Soft Shell Crabs, Fried.
Bread it in the usual manner by dip
ping in egg in which a small proportion
of water has been beaten, then in cracke
meal. Drop two or three at a time in J
saucepan of hot oil or lard and fry ligh
brown in about ten minutes. The clawi
should be crisp enough to break. Gar-
nish with fried parsley and serve mayon
aise at th&side separately.
C OST soft- shells bring from lOc to
20c each in the markets when hare
shells are but from 2c to 5c according
to where the market may be located.
Two soft-shells tried, with sauce and ta
ble extras constitute a restaurant dish at
50 or 60 cents.
375 Crab Salad.
6 boiled crabs, common size.
1 cup finely minced white cabbage let-
tuce, or endive.
\ cup salad cream.
Pick the meat out of the crabs, cut
all that can be cut into pieces of even
size and rub the rest smooth in salad
(1 teasing, adding a little mustard. Mix
cabbage and dressing thoroughly, and
the crab meat mix in lightly without
breaking the pieces. Fill the crab shells
with the salad and place them on a, dish
previously prepared with a bed of cress
or other green.
COST of material 6 crabs 25, salad
cream 5, green 2; 32 cents for 6 shells of
salad or 5 or 6c each.
NOTE. Crab salads may be made in
all the same ways as shrimp and lobster
salads; particularly good with mayonaise
dressing.
376 Dressed Crab.
Pick the meat from the shell and
claws, cut the solid part into small
pieces, dry the soft part with the addi-
tion of a spoonful of fine bread crumbs,
mix all with a little oil, vinegar and
mustard. Wash and dry the shells and
serve the meat in them, placed on a bed
of something green lettuce, cress, young
celery plants or parsley.
377 Devilled Crabs.
Boil the crabs in salted water 20 min-
utes, open and crack the claws and take
out the mejit, measure it with a spoon
into a bowl and add half as many spoon-
fuls of fine bread crumbs. For each crab
add a teaspoonful of softened butter,
same of vinegar mixed with a small tea-
spoonful of made mustard,a pinch of salt
and cayenne. Pack the mixture in the
crab shells and cover the surface with
cracker meal, bake brown in a brisk oven
and baste the tops once with butter to
moisten the breading.. Serve in the
shells.
COST about 6 cents each.,
378 Canned Crabs Devilled,.
1 can of crab.
J cup butter sauce.
4 hard-boiled yolks of eggs.
Salt and cayenne.
Crab shells or paper cases..
Have the butter sauce made the same
as if for boiled meat, mash the yolks and
sauce together and stir into the crab. Sea-
son to taste. Oil the crab shells inside
with salad oil, fill up, smooth over the
:op, bake about 6 minutes and serve
hot
COST can of devilled crab 20, yoJks
, butter sauce 3; 30 cents for 6 or 8.
NOTE. The canned crab is called dev
led crab as it is, simply meaning that i-
j minced and cooked. It is usually
ryer than the meat taken out of the
hells, being composed of selected meat
ence the difference between the two
oregoing receipts, bread being needed
n one case to dry it up. Crab shells
may be saved over and used many times
or the same purpose. When a number
re to be served at once, dish them on
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
105
a folded napkin and ornament the dish.
Paper cases may be purchased to answer
the same purpose as sheila.
379 Bnttered Crabs.
Devilled crab from the cans made hot
in a frying pan with a little butter, pep-
per and salt undeserved on toast.
QUAKER DAIRY LUNCH,
Farinaceous and milk food ; such dish-
es as mush and milk, bread and butter
and fruit and buttermilk are the special-
ties of some lunch houses. These are all
cheap and healthful dishes and many cus-
tomers avail themselves of the opportu-
nity to avoid meat eating altogether. A
large variety of pastry, puddings and
cakes, however, gets into the bill of fare
of most of the "dairies" eventually,such
as hd,ve been enumerated already under
the head of fine bakery lunch, and a few
more will be found following these- aim-
pier dishes.
380 Oatmeal Mush and Milk.
1 cup oatmeal.
4 cups water.
2 teaspoons salt.
The coarsest oatmeal ia the best and
the least liable to burn. It is the dust
in oatmeal that sticks and scorches on
the bottom, if that is washed away the
tendency will be very much lessened. A
double bottomed kettle can be used if
steam enough can be kept up, but gen-
erally mush seems better when cooked
in a pot on a part of the range that is not
very hot.
Boil the water two hours before the
meal, put in the oatmeal, cover down
and let simmer at the side. Watch to
see that it does not boil dry but only stir
it up when nearly done. Serve warm,
with cold milk in another bowl.
COST with oatmeal 6c per pound
oatmeal mush 3c per quart or 3 large
cups, milk 6; 3 cents each peruon.
NOTE. This being such a cheap dish
and the usual price ten cents, some res-
taurants serve a platter with an unstinted
amount of mush and a pint of milk for
that charge.
381 Cracked Wheat Mush and Milk.
The same as oatmeal but the wheat
needs longer boiling say 3 hours. It is
better for a previous soaking in water.
382 Hulled Corn or Home Made
Hominy.
Steep a quart of white corn in weak
lye for two days, wash in two waters
and boil it about 4 hours or until tender.
The lye from the leach of wood ashes is
the kind generally used, but a weak so-
lution of concentrated lye will answer
and if that is not available mix a handful
of baking soda in water enough to cover
the corn twice over and let steep in that.
Wash well before cooking, eat with salt
and milk.
COST the same as mush and milk,
rom 1 to 3 cents each person.
383 Soda Crackers and Milk.
10 crackers and a pint bowl of milk.
Usual charge 10 cents.
384 Graham or Oatmeal Crackers
and Milk.
Same as the preceding.
385 Doughnuts and Milk.
Prepare the dough as if for French
rolls or cream rolls, rollout thin, cut out
ike small biscuits, brash over the tops
with the least possible amount of melted
106
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES
lard and let stand in pans to rise for an
hour. Take them up singly and drop
in a kettle of hot lard and fry light brown
in about 5 minutes.
COST of material these small plain
doughnuts 6 cents per dozen. Uusu,ally
one with a glass of milk, 5c.
386 Baked Pork and Beans.
Wash and pick over a large heaping
cupful of navy beans and steep them in
water over night. Put them on next
morning with fresh water to more than
cover, and baking soda the size of a
bean and let boil about an hour. Then
carry them to the sink, pour all into a
colander lettiug the water run away and
put back into the saucepan with cold
water enough to come up to a level. Boil
again and in a few minutes they will be
soft. Season with a little salt and table-
spoon of molasses. Put them into four
pint bowls or tin pans, lay an ounce slice
of salt pork on each and bake half an
hour.
387 Boston Brown Bread.
1 pound corn meal about 3 cups.
1 pint boiling water 2 cups.
\ cup black molasses.
1 cup cold water.
1 cup yeast or yeast cake in water.
\ pound of either rye or graham flour.
\ pound of white flour a heaping pint
Salt.
Pour the boiling water over the corn-
meal in a pan and mix, throw in a tea-
spoonful of salt, add the molasses and
cold water, then the yeast and then the
two kinds of flour. Line two sheet-iron
brown bread pails with greased paper, put
in the dough and let rise from one to two
hours, iben bake or steam for five hours.
If steamed, bake the loaves afterward
long enough to form a light crust.
COST of material corn meal 0, flour
3, molasses and yeast 2; 8 cents for two
2-pound loaves.
NOTE. A good sort of bread is made
as above with a pound of graham Gifted
through a common flour sieve to remove
the coarse bran, and the white flour omit-
ted; or with all rye flour and no graham or
white. Care should be taken not to
scald the yeast by adding it to the hot
meal before the cold water. When this
kind of bread is sticky when sliced it
shows it was made up too wet. When
the loaves come out hollow or caved in it
hows too much fermentation.
COST of material beans 4, pork 4; 8
cents for 4 dishes
388 Sour Milk Cheese or Smearkase.
Set a pan of clabbered milk on the
stove when there is not much fire, and
let it heat slowly without burniug on the
bottom. When it shows signs of boiling
it should be taken off, as actual boiling
makes the curd tough. Pour it into a
piece of muslin, tie and hang on a nail to
drip until next day. Chop up the ball
of curd and mix with salt, pepper and
cream to taste, or cream or sweet milk
and sugar.
Sells well at the dairy lunch houses
When for sale in that way it is not ne-
cessary to add any seasonings but a little
salt. Serve in saucers.
COST of material one gallon sour
milk value 20 cents will yield 12 ouuces
of cheese, which chopped and moistened
with milk makes 3 half pints, or 6 of
the little cheeses done up in tinfoil that
we find for sale in the stores .
389 Cream Cheese.
Take a quart of cream that has become
sour and thick, mix in a tablespoonful of
salt and pour it into a piece of thin mus-
lin (butter wrapping) placed in a sieve or
basket bottom'. Leave it in the milk
house or other cold place three days, to
drain and ripen, pouring away the whey
from the dish it stands on every day.
Lift the cheese out by taking hold of the
corners of the cloth; invert it on to a
COOKING FOB PROFIT.
107
plate. These are sometimes inverted on
to a large cabbage leaf on the second day
and taken to market on the leaf the next
day by those who make them for sale.
NOTE. The above is the "slipcote"
cheese of English dairies and country
markets, and is the same in the main as
the imported fromage de Brie, the dif-
ferences consisting in the use of a pro-
portion of goats milk in the laster, and
peculiar skill in manipulation learned
through practice among the English pro-
ducers.
390 Baked Bread Pudding.
4 heaping cups bread 1 pound.
4 cups water or milk.
1 cup finely minced suet.
2 tablespoons sugar.
2 eggs.
1 nutmeg, or minced lemon peel.
Bread being such a cheap article there
is no economy in trying to use the dark
crust of the stale pieces that are re-
quired, but they should be pared until
there is nothing but white bread left.
Cut into thin slices and then across in
dice, and put it in a pan having the minced
suet first strewn over the bottom. Mix
the milk, sugar, eggs and nutmeg to-
gether and pour it over the bread. Set
in the oven without stirring it up, bake
until set in the middle. Serve out of
the pan and pour sauce (No. 70) over in
the saucer.
COST of material bread 4, suet
sugar 2, eggs 4; 12 cents for
2,
near 2
quarts sauce 820 cents for 8 orders
or 2Jc each or IJc for hotel dishes.
NOTE It is the genteel way in most
places to bake the puddings in . bowls
holding a pint and serve the sauce in
small individual pitchers. Uusual charge
ten conts.
391 Baked Rice and Milk Pudding.
1 cup rice
1 cup sugar.
6 cups milk.
Cinnamon or nutmeg.
A pinch of salt
Wash the rice in three or four waters,
put it into a tin pudding pan, and the
sugar, milk, salt and piece of stick cin-
namon with it, all cold, and bake in a
slow oven for three or four hours. It
may be best to use only five cups of milk
at fin?t,, and add the other if the time
allows the pndding to boil down dry
enough^ Cover with a sheet of greased
paper so keep the top from scorching.
Sauce not necessary, but generally a
glass of milk served with it.
COST of material rice 4, milk 8, su-
gar 5, seasoning 1; 18 cents for 3 pints,
or 6 or 8 orders, or 3 cents each person.
NOTE The preceding is a favorite
kind of pudding everywhere and in some
of the finest hotels is nearly always of-
fered as an alternative from the richer
kinds. Its good quality arises from the
slow boiling down and condensation of
the richness of the milk. When it is to
be baked in individual bowls it becomes
necessary to boil it first ic a kettle and
in that cape the milk should be boiled
down partially, with the sugar in it to
prevent burning, befoiethe rice is put in.
Then when done dip it into bowls, wipe
off the edges and bake until top is brown.
392 Cracked Wheat Pudding.
4 large cups cracked wheat mush.
Small half cup black molasses.
1 cup minced suet 3 ounces.
2 eggs.
1 cup milk or water.
1 rounded teaspoon ground cinnamon.
Mix all the ingredients together and
bake about an hour, If wanted to make
it better add a cup of raisins, but strew
them over the top, for if stirred in they
all go to the bottom.
When this pudding is to be made ex-
tra, wheat should be put on for the break-
fast mush, to secure the benefit of the
three hours cooking. When the mush
108
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
happens to be cold, mash it \uth the
milk made hot, so as to have no lumps.
One laige cup of cracked wheat raw
will make the above amount. The mush
is expected to be dry. else use less milk
or more eggs, The pudding has to be
apparently quite fluid when put in the
oven but comes out firm enough.
COST of material mush 3, suet 2,
molasses 2, eggs, 4, milk and cinnamon
1; 12 cents for 3 pints or 6 or 8 orders or
2 cents each, with sauce 3 cents.
393 Lincoln Pie.
1 pound broken crackers or bread.
1 pound brown sugar or molasses.
pound currants.
1 ounce mixed ground spices, chiefly
cinnamon.
1 pint cold water.
pint hard cider, or vinegar and
water.
1 pound suet chopped fine, or lard.
Soak the crackers or bread in the flu-
ids awhile. Mix everything together.
Cover the bottom of a baking pan with
a very thin sheet of common short paste.
Pour in the mixture to be 1^ inches
deep. Cover with another very thin
sheet of piste. Brush over with milk.
Bake to a light color in a slow oven
about three-quariers of an hour. Cut
out squares either hot or cold.
COST of material bread 3, sugar 8,
currants 5, spice 5. cider 2, suet 10,
pie-paste 11; 44 cents for 6 or 7 pounds
or 14 squares.
394 Baked Custa d in Cups.
1 quart milk.
6 eggs.
\ cup sugar 4 ounceb.
Flavoring.
Break the eggs into the sugar and
pour in the milk while beating. Grate
in a quarter of a nutmeg. Fill five
J-pint cupa with the custard, wipe off
the edges and outside, set in a pan and
-bake in a slack oven about 20 minutes.
Be careful not to let the cups remain in
the oven longer than till the custard is
just set in the middle.
COST of material milk 8, eggs 13,
sugar and flour 3; 24c, or 5 cents per
cup or according to price of eggs. These
are restaurant cups that sell as pudding
at lOc. Common custard cups only half
the eize.
395 Blackberry Meringue.
Make the same as strawberry mer-
ingue at No. 195.
396 Peach Meringue
Pare ripe peaches (not cooked) and
cut them to size of strawberries and
make the same as strawberry meringue
at No. 195.
397 Peach Shortcake.
The same thing as strawberry short-
cake, usingchop.jed ripe peaches instead.
It is a cake of short paste, not sweet, as
large as a plate and thick as a biscuit,
split in two after baking,peaches and su-
gar spread on the lower half, the other
placed on top with the split side upward
and more peaches spread upon that, It
is eaten with cream. The ingredients
required are:
1 cup lard or butter 8 ounces.
3 cups flour 12 ounces.
\ teaspoon salt.
1 CUD ice water.
1 quart cut peaches.
1 cup sugar.
Pare the peaches, cut them small and
shake up with the sugar before making
the paste, and set them in a cool pUce.
Rub the butter into the flour thoroughly
with the hands. Salt is needed only
where lard is used. Make a hollow in
the middle, pour in the water, mix up
soft, roll out on the table in flour re-
served for the purpose. It makes the
cake flaky ana part in layers to roll it
and fold it a few times like pie paste.
Then make it up round, let stand five
minutes, roll out thick as biscuit and
COOKING FOR PEOFIT.
109
bake on a jelly-cake pan. Finish with
fruit as above stated.
COST of material peaches 20, crust
13, sugar 5; 37 cents for 2 shortcakes,to
be cut in quarters.
398 Apple Shortcake.
Use mellow apples of fine flavor and
mike the same as peach shortcake, the
apples not to be cooked, but mixed with
sugar and chopped and used immediatly.
399 Peach Cobbler,
A peach pie made in a baking pan to
be cut out in squares. Make common
pie paste, roll out the larger half of it to
a thin sheet and take up off the table by
rolling it up on the rolling pin and so un-
roll it on the pan. Put in pared and cut
peaches an inch deep, dredge a little
sugar over them,cover with the top crust
and bake about half an hour.
COST each person about the same as
fruit pie or apple dumplings, or 3 to 5
cents per plate.
400 Apple Cobbler.
Same as peach cobbler. Other fruits
same way. With apples use cianamon
or nutmeg for flavor.
401 Boiled Rice and Milk.
1 cup rice J- pound.
2 cups water.
1 cup milk.
Salt.
Wash the rice in three or four waters,
rubbing it between the hands to remove
all the flour there may be about it. Set
it on to boil in the water and when half
done put in the milk. Keep the lid on
and never stir it, but simmer at the side
of the range and it will not be apt to
burn.
Serve like oatmeal or cornmeal mush,
in a bowl with another bowl full of milk.
COST of material rice 4, milk 2; 6
cents a quart or 3 or 4 portions with
milk 4 cents each person.
402 Batter Cakes with Syrup.
No eggL needed, and raised with yeast
3 cups flour 12 ounces.
2 cupb water and yeast.
1 tablespoon melted lard.
1 tablespoon syrup.
iV teaspoon salt
The yeast may be either cop of po-
tato yeast or ferment, or J a yeast cake
in so much water. Sift the floor into a
pan, make hollow in the middle, strain
in the yeast and water, stir around to
mix in the flour gradually and when all
melted without being lumpy add the other
ingredients and beat thoroughly. Let
st&nd in a warm place to rise 6 hours,
beat up again and bake. When the
cakes are for breakfast mix the batter
over night with cold water according to
the weather.
COST of material flour and yeast 3,
lard and syrup 2, 5 cents for 3 pints, 24
cakes or 8 orders. See remarks about
buckwheat cakes. The cakes cost noth-
ing relatively, it is the syrup, butter,
and made of baking that make the ex-
pense.
403 Flannel CakesBest.
4 cups flour.
4 cups warm water.
J cup ysast.
1 tablespoon syrup.
Lard size of an egg.
2 eggs. Little salt.
Mix the f flour into a batter with the
yeast and water either over night, if it is
for breakfast, or 6 hours before supper.
An hour before it is time to bake add
the other ingredients the lard melted
and beat well. Bake when light again.
COST of material flour 3, yeast and
syrup 1, lard 2, eggs 4; 10 cents for 2
quarts or 30 cakes 1 cent each penon.
add for syrup and butter
110
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES
404-^Baking Powder Batter Cakes.
Same ingredients as * 'flannel cakes/'
but no yeast. Put in two large teaspoons
of baking powder and beat up with an
egg beater.
405 White Bread Cakes.
2 pressed -in cupa bread crumbs.
1J cups flour.
8 cups water.
2 eggs. Salt.
1 teaspoon baking powder.
Remove all dark crust from the bread,
and then soak it in a pint of the water
several hours, with a plate to press it
under. Mash smooth and add the flour,
the cup of milk or water, eggs and pow-
der. It always improves batter cakes to
beat the eggs light, before mixing them
in. No shortening nor syrup needed for
the above.
COST of material bread 2, flour 5,
eggs and powder 5; 8 cents for 3 pints
or 24 cakes.
406 Graham Bread Cakes.
Make like the preceding, with part
graham flour, and the crumbs of graham
bread .
407 Corn Batter Cakes.
1 heaping cup white corn meal.
1 cup flour 4 ounces.
1 tablespoon melted lard.
1 egg. Little salt.
2 cups water.
1 tablespoon syrup.
1 teaspoon baking powder.
Mix gradually to avoid having lumps
in the batter. Add the powder last and
beat up well. When you have milk
leave out the syrup as the cakes will
brown well enough without it.
408 Corn Cakes Without Flour.
2 cups corn meal 12 ounces.
2 cups water.
Lard size of an egg.
2 eggs. Little salt.
1 teaspoon baking bowder.
Boil halt the water {or milk) and scald
ihe meal with it, add the other ingredi-
ents, the powder last.
NOTE. Buttermilk aud soda can be
used instead of baking powder in the
several kinds of batter cakes, the pro-
portions are 1 teaspoonful soda to 2 <jups
butter milk-which should be BOUT enough
to counteract that amount.
409 Rice Batter Cakes.
1 heaping pint dry cooked rice.
1 large cup milk or water.
6 ounces flour 2 level cups .
2 eggs (or 5 yolks for best quality).
2 tablespoons syrup.
1 teaspoon baking powder. Salt
The amount of rice to be cooked spe-
cially for this ia one teacupful, boiled in
a pint of water, with the steam shut in.
If ready cooked cold rice, warm the milk
and mash the rice with it free from
Inmps, adding flour at the same time.
Then mix in the other ingredients; the
eggs well beaten first. Bake on a grid-
dle. Buttermilk and soda can be used
instead of the powder and sweet milk.
410 Sugar Tops or Cookies Without
Eggs.
1 cup butter or lard 8 ounces.
1 cup sugar 8 ounces.
1 cup water.
2 teaspoons baking powder
6 cups flour 1J pounds
Mix butter and sugar together, then
the water (not too cold) then the flour
with the powder in it. The softer the
dough can be handled the better the
cake? will be. Roll out thin, sift gran-
ulated sugar over, run the rolling pin
over again to make the sugar stick; cut
out and bake.
NOTE. In the bakeries baking-pow-
der means pulverized carbonate of am-
monia. It is the most effective agent
for raising cakes because it all evapo-
COOKING FOB PROFIT.
rates with great rapidity and great force
when the substance it is incorporated
with is exposed to the action of heat
In making sugar cakes or cookies some
practice is necessary to produce them
properly for the reason that the softness
of the butter or lard used makes a dif-
ference in the amount of flour that will
be taken up in making them out, and if
too much flour the cakes come out like
common biscuits, so that with the same
receipt to work by one person will make
a sugar cake twice as good as another.
Another thing to be watched is the
amount of baking powder whether the
common household baking powder or
ammonia it all at- s the sime because
too much destroys the cakes by making
them too light, full of holes and spread
all over the pans, while with too little or
with v/eak powder they remain harder
than crackers.
411 Cookies Good.
2 cups sugar 1 pound.
1 cup butter 8 ounces.
6 eggs.
1 cup milk.
4 teaspoons baking powder.
8 cups flour 2 pounds.
Soften the butter and rub it and the
sugar together until well mixed, add
the eggs one at a time, then the milk and
flour with powder in. Sift flour on the
table, turn out the lump of dough and
pat it smooth and compact, keeping it
quite soft. Thn roll it out thin as the
edge of a dinner plate, dredge granu-
lated sugar over and cut out the cakes.
Place with plenty of room between on
the baking pans and bake.
The dough wben it has been suffi-
ciently pressed or kneaded together
should be allowe 1 to rest on the table a
minute or two before rolling out which
will prevent the cakes drawing up out of
shape when cut out.
412 Cookies Richest and Best.
1 pound of sugar.
1 pound of butter.
12 eggs.
3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder.
Flour to make soft dough 3 pounds.
Cream the butter and sugar together
the same as for pound cake. Beat the
eggs and mix them in, then the powder,
add some flavoring, then flour. Let
the dough, after it has been worked
smooth, stand a few minutes before roll-
ing it out. Sift sugar over th*e sheet of
dough before cutting out the cakes.
413 Hard Cookies or Sweet Crackers.
To cut in fancy shapes. They do not
spread or lose form.
12 ounces of powdered sugar.
6 ouncea of butter.
6 HgP.
Halt cup full of milk.
1 teaspoonful of baking powder.
2 pounds of flour.
Lemon or cinnamon extract to flavor.
414 German Sugar Tops,
Rich cookies sprinkled with grave
sugar.
1 cup sugar 8 ounces .
J cup butter, large 4 ounces.
3 eggs.
\ cup milk.
2 teaspoons baking powder.
4 cups flour 1 pound.
Work the softened butter and sugar
together to a cream, the same as for
pound cake, beat the eggs and mix them
in, then the milk, and the flour with the
powder mixed in it. Keep the dough
as soft as it can be handled. After it
has been pressed and worked smooth on
the table let it alone a few minutes before
rolling out, then the cakes will not draw
out of shape when cut.
While they are baking mix an egg and
some -syrup together in a cup. add some
flavoring extract, brush the hot cakes
over with it and dredge gravel sugar on
top.
Gravel sugar is loaf sugar crushed and
the dust sifted away, then again sifted
in a colander. The sugar that passes
112
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES
through the holes of the colander is
gravel sugar.
415 Jumbles.
These are cookies in ring shapes of van -
ous degrees of richness. The proper shape
is ribbed by being forced out of a tube
with a saw tooth aperture. Commonly,
however, they are only rings made with
a ring cookie cutter. Either of the fore-
going mixtures for sugar cakes or cook-
ies may be used or this, which is rich
and contains no powder,
1 pound sugar.
12 ounces butter.
8 eggs.
Flavoring extract either lemon, or>
ange or cinnamon.
2 pound scant of flour.
416 Ginger Snaps Rich Kind.
8 ounces of butter.
8 ounces of white sugar.
8 eggs.
1 to 2 ounces of ground ginger.
1 tea spoonful of baking powder.
1^ pounds of flour.
Make same way as cookies. Sift gran-
ulated sugar over the sheet of dough
and run the rolling pin over to make it
adhere before cutting out the cakes.
417 Ginger Snaps English, Richest.
1 cups sugar 12 ounces.
1 cop butter 8 ounces.
8 eggs."
cup milk.
2 tablespoons ground ginger.
2 teaspoons baking powder.
6 cups flour 1 pounds.
Mix up in the usual way for cookies.
Sift sugar over before cutting out the
cakes. These will keep for years.
418 Brown Ginger* Cookies, Good
Common.
8 ounces butter 1 cup.
8 ounces sugar 1 cup.
8 ounces black molasses a small tea-
cap
4 eggs.
2 ounces ground ginger 2 tablespoons.
Half cup milk or water.
4 teaspoons baking powder. '
2 pounds flour, or enough to- make
soft dough.
Mix the ingredients in the order they
are printed. Roll out and cut with a
small cutter.
419 Ginger Nuts without Eggs.
8 ounces butter 1 cup.
8 ounces of sugar 1 cup.
8 ounces of molasses small teacup.
2 teaspoons ground ginger.
2 teaspoons baking powder.
Flour to make soft dough.
Warm the butter, sugar and molasses
together and mix them well, when nearly
cold again add the ginger, powder and
flour. Roll pieces of the dough in long
thin rolls and cut off" in pieces large as
cherries. Place on buttered pans with
plenty of room between. Bake light.
420 Brandy Snaps.
1 pound flour 4 cups.
8 ounces butter 1 cup
8 ounces sugar 1 cup.
2 ounces ground ginger.
Lemon extract flavor.
1 teaspoonful soda rounded measure.
1J pounds light molasses 2 cups.
Rub the butter into the flour as in
making phort paste, and add the ginger.
Make a hole in the middle of the flour
and put in the sugar, molasses and ex-
tract; dissolve the soda in a spoonful of
water and add it to the rest. Stir all
together, drawing in the flour gradually
while stirring.
Drop this batter with a teaspoon on
baking pans they need not be greased
and Lake in a slack oven. The snaps
run out flat and thin. Take them off be-
fore they get cold ana bend them to
round or tabular shape on a new broom
handle.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
113
421 Soft Ginger Nuts Without
Eggs.
Make the dough as for brandy snaps,
and add to it 8 ounces more fiour. Roll
it out lo a thick sheet and cut out with
a^mall cutter.
422 Sponge Gingerbread Best Kind.
8 ounces molasses a teacupful.
3 large tablespoons sugar 3 ounces^
4 ounces butter J cup.
1 cup milk or water.
3 eggs.
1 large teaspoon ground ginger.
1 large teaspoon baking powder.
1 pound or quart of flour.
Melt the butter in the milk made
warm, and pour them into the molasses
and sugar, mix, add the eggs, the gio-
ger and powder, and lastly the flour.
It is a great improvement to beat the
cake thoroughly with a spoon. It is too
soft to be handled. Spiead it an inch
thick iu a buttered pau or mold. Bake
twenty or thirty minutes.
COST of material molasses 3, sugar
2, butter 8, eggs 7, ginger 1, powder 1,
flour 3 ; 25 cents for about a two quart
mold or about 20 cuts in a thin sheet for
hotel supper.
423 Common Gingerbread.
12 ounces black molasses a coffee
cup.
4 ounces butter or lard J cup.
1 tablespoon ground ginger.
1 small teaspoon soda.
1 pound or quart flour.
1 cup hot water.
Salt when lard is used.
Melt the butter and stir it into the
molasses and then the egg, ginger and
soda.
The mixture begins to foam. Then
stir in the flour, and laatly the hot water,
a little at a time. Bake in a shallow
pan.
COST of material molasses 5, lard 4,
egg 2, ginger and soda 3, flour 3; 17
cents for a two- quart pan.
Black-Pudding a la Francaise.
Chop fine a few large onions, and
boil them in salt and water, with a
little thyme and bay-leaf. When
done, strain them and remove the
seasoning herbs. Next cut up in
smaJl dice one pound of inside fat of
the pig or "flare," and mix it with
the chopped onions and a quart of
pig's blo(,d ; season with salt, pepper,
and some ground spice, and fill up
some skins cleaned and prepared for
the purpose. Tie the skin with string,
so that each pudding may be the
length of an ordinary sausage; care
being taken to allow a little loose
space between each individual pudd-
ing, or the skin will burst during the
process of cooking. Plunge the
puddings in water at boiling-point,
and let them remain at the corner of the
stove,but without boiling, stirring them
occasionally with a wooden spoon.
White-Pudding a la Parisienne.
Pound in a mortar twelve ounces of
raw chicken with four ounces of leaf
lard ; season with salt, pepper, and a
little grated nutmeg. When well
pounded, add gradually four whites
of egg and three-quarters of a pint of
double cream. Remove the meat
from the mortar, and pass it through
a wire sieve. Then work it in a
basin with a wooden spoon, and add
to it three ounces of truffles cut in
dice, and the same quantity of ox-
tongue also cut in small dice. Next
put this forcemeat into a biscuit-bag
fitted with a long tin pipe, and with
it fill up the skins, which you tie as
in the foregoing recipe, and poach in
water at boiling-point for fifteen
minutes, taking care that the water
does not boil.
114
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
FINE CONFECTIONERY GOODS.
424 Peanut Bar.
1 pound granulated sugar.
f pound shelled peanuts.
Make the peanuts hot in the oven.
Set the sugar over the fire in a kettle to
melt without any water. Stir it a little.
When it is ail melted and of the color of
golden syrup or light molasses mix in
the peanuts, pour the candy into a but-
tered shallow pan and when nearly cold
cut into strips and blocks.
425 Mint Drops.
1 pound pulverized sugar.
1 heaping teaspoon powdered gum-
arabic.
6 tablespoons water.
1 tablespoon essence pepperment.
Put the water on in a small saucepan
or cup and the gum in it and let warm
up. When the gum is dissolved put
about a quarter of the tugar in, let boil
up and then add half the sugar that re-
mains putting it in gradually without
stirring. When it boils again take it to
the table and stir in the remaining sugar
and after that the flavoring. Drop por-
tions the size of quarter dollars on bheets
of paper. They slip off the paper when
cold. It may be necessary to add an-
other tablespoon or two of sugar to give
the drops consistency enough not to run
on the paper, yet it is better it be too
thin than too much the other way.
426 Wintergreen Drops.
The same as the preceding, but make
them pink with a few drops of cochineal
or vegetable red coloring and use winter-
green extract for flavoring:. These drops
have a smooth surface but are slightly
granulated inside. Clove drops, cinna-
mon drops etc., same way.
427 Honey Nougat.
A moist candy to be sliced, wrap
in wax tissue paper.
4 tablespoons strained honey.
2 ounces almonds, blanched.
1 pound flour of sugar,or icing sugar.
Make the honey hot without boiling,
stir in the sugar a little at a time until
it becomes too firm, then turn out on the
table and knead in more sugar and also
the almonds, which must be dry. When
the nougat is firm enough to keep its form
in a square bar like a brick split length-
wise, sugar the outside, roll it in wax
paper and keep it a day before slicing it
up tor sale. Wrap the little cuts like-
wise in wax paper .
428 Tutti-Frutti Candy,
Take the preceding receipt and add to
it a teaspoon of vanilla, two figs cut small
and an equal amount of raisins seeded
and cut; work up into a bar with all the
fine, powdered sugar necessary to make
it firm, cut in slices and wrap in wax
tissue paper.
429 Burnt Almonds.
1 pound shelled almonds.
1 pound sugar.
J cup water.
1 level teaspoon cream tarter.
Set the almonds in a round-bottom-
ed candy kettle over a moderate fire and
stir them until they begin to parch.
Boil the sugar, water and cream tartar
together, making a clear syrup, pour a
little over the almonds in the kettle and
keep them moving while it dries to su-
gar on them, then pour on more and so
on till the syrup is all used and the al-
monds are thickly covered. A little red
coloring can be added to the syrup near
the last to make the outside coating of
that color.
430 Almond Taffy Brown.
1J pounds brown sugar.
8 ounces best fresh butter.
1 teacupful of vinegar and water
about half and half.
8 to 12 ounces almonds.
Scald and peel the almonds, split them
COOKING FOR PEOF1T.
115
and spread them evenly 011 two large
dishes slightly buttered. Boil the other
ingredients together about 15 or 20 min-
utes. Shake them together at first but
do not stir. When a drop of the candy
sets quite hard and brittle in cold water
take it from the fire and pour it evenly all
over the almonds, only just deep enough
to cover them. This kind cannot be
stirred nor pulled, as the butter separates
from the sugar which then turns grainy.
Mark it off with a knife while cooling,
and when cold cut in strips and wrap
them in wax paper.
431 Almond Candy White.
J pound almonds.
1 pound granulated sugar,
1 small cup water.
1 rounded teaspoon powdered gum
arabic.
1 level teaspoon cream tartar.
Little extract of rose.
Dissolve the gum in the water-made
warm, add the sugar and cream tartar
and boil without stirring 15 or 20 min-
utes. When a drop in cold water sets
nearly hard so that it can only just be
presssed flat between the finger and
thumb take the kettle off the fire. Drop
the flavoring by spots over the surface,
give the candy only one or two turns
with a spoon to mix it in, then pour it
into slightly buttered pans, in thin
sheets. Push the split almonds into the
warm candy with the fingers. Mark it
before it gets cold for breaking by rolling
over it the thin edge of a thin dinner
plate. Sliced cocoanut can be used in-
stead of almonds.
432 Cocoanut Cream Squares.
1 pound granulated sugar.
8 ounces cocoanut either fresh grated
or desicated.
A small half cup water,
Set the sugar and water over the fire
in a small bright kettle and boil about 5
minutes, or till the syrup bubbles up
thick and ropes from the spoon, and do
not stir it. Then pnt in the cocoanut, I
stir to mix, and when it begins to look
white pour it immediately into a shallow
tin pan. As soon as it is set solid mark
it off, and cut in little squares when
cold. The same kind may be colored
red, and also be made with chocolate.
433 Chocolate Cream Drops.
J pound fine icing sugar.
1 teaspoon powdered gum arabic.
2 tablespoons water.
1 teaspoon extract vanilla.
J pound common chocolate.
Cut up the cake of chocolate into a
tin cup and set in a shallow pan of hot
water to melt by heat alone without ad-
ding any water.
Dijsolve the gum arabic in the two
tablespoons of boiling water in a small
bowl, then stir in fine powdered sugar
enough to make it a stiff dough, adding
the vanilla at the same time. Turn it on
the table, roll into a cord, cutoff in balls
size of hazel nuts and dip these in the
melted chocolate. Set on a pan or dish
to harden. Makes 75 to 100.
434 Chocolate Creams Best.
Make the white inside the same as for
the preceding and make the balls up in
any shape desired, Instead of common
chocolate merely melted dip them in this
chocolate icing;
1 cup sugar
4 tablespoons water.
2 ounces common chocolate.
Grate the chocolate and set it on with
the sugar and water to melt gradually
in a place not hot enough to burn it.
Whon it has at length become boiling
hot beat it to thoroughly mix, and dip
in the articles to be glazed while it is
hot,
435 Chocolate Cream Dominoes.
The white cream candy same as for
chocolate drops. Roll it out thin and
pour a layer of melted chocolate upon
it. Cut T/hen cold.
116
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
436 Walnut Creams.
1 pound fine icing sugar.
2 heaped teaspoons powdered gum
arabic.
5 tablespoons water.
3 doz walnut kernels.
1 teaspoon extract vanilla.
Put a little sugar in the water to
make a syrup, and the gum in it, stir
over the fire until the gum is dissolved.
Take it off and work in the powdered
sugar gradually with a wooden paddle.
Add the vanilla. The more it is stirred
and beaten with the paddle the whiter
and finer the candy becomes. At last
turn out the lumps on to the table it is
like soft white dough and roll it iii one
long roll, cut off slices, stick a half of a
walnut kernel in each piece and piuch
the paste up to hold it, by shaping it in
the hollow of the left hand. Lay the
finished creams on a tray to dry. This
makes about 6 dozen. The sugar is not
boiled, only the hot gum syrup is used.
437 Date Creams.
The same as the preceding kind with
dates cut in pieces to use instead of wal-
nuts.
438 Fig Creams.
Cut each fig in six or eight and pro-
ceed as for walnut creams.
439 Angelica Creams.
Flavor the cream candy with extract
of strawberry instead of vanilla. Cut
green angelica or any other French can-
died fruit of a rich color and use as di-
directed lor walnut creams.
440 Cocoanut Cream Balls.
1 pound pulverized sugar.
1 teaspoon powdered gum arabic.
5 tablespoons water.
2 tablespoons cocoanut, minced.
2 tablespoons currants, minced.
1 teaspoon lemon extract.
Dissolve the gum in the water hot and
stir in the sugar gradually, flavor, fruit
and cocoanut. Work the paste on the
table with sugar until it is firm enough,
roll into one long cord half an inch thick,
cut off pieces and roll into balls a little
larger than cherries. Sugar well outside
and let dry. The same can be made
with candy colored pink. The foregoing
kinds are all easy to make because there
is no boiling of sugar.
441 Fine White Sugar Candy-Pulled.
1 pound white sugar,
J cup water.
\ teaspoon cream tartar.
1 ounce butter.
Oil of peppermint or lemon or other
flavoring.
Boil all together, except the flavoring,
about 15 minutes. Try by dropping a
little cold water. It must set hard to
be done. Do not stir it at all, but pour
on a buttered dish and flavor when
cool enough to handle. Pull it till it is
quite white.
442 Lemon CandyClear.
1 pound granulated sugar,
1 teacup water.
1 rounded teaspoon powdered -gum
arabic.
J teaspoon cream tartar.
Oil of lemon, few drops.
Dissolve the powdered gum in the
water made warm for the purpose. Then
add to the gum-water the sugar and
cream of tartar and set on to boil. Do
not stir the syrup after it is once well
mixed. It should boil about 15 minutes.
Then try it by dropping a little in cold
water. VV hen the lump retaius its shape
pretty well and can be worked between
the fingers like gum paste it is ready.
Pour it into the buttered plate or in little
molds of fish shapes and the like or into
a thin sheet to be used broken for mixed
candies. The flavoring may be dropped
in spots in the kettle just before turning
out, and stirred around once.
COOKING FOB PROFIT.
117
443 Lemon Cream Candy.
Take the same ingredients as for the le-
mon candy preceding and boil to the same
degree that is, when the drop in a cup
oi cold water sets brittle around the thin
edges but still can be pressed to any
shape between the thumb and finger
then add the flavoring and begin to stir
it rapidly with a .spoon. In from 10 to
20 turns it will begin to turn white
and creamy. Then pour it quickly oc
to a buttered pan, or into cream bon-bon
molds made of plaster pans or formed
in ajray of starch.
444 Rose Candy Clear.
1 pound granulated sugar.
1 teacup water.
1 rounded teaspoon powdered gum
arabic.
J teaspoon cream tartar.
Red coloring, few drops.
Rose extract to flavor.
Dissolve the gum in the hot water,put
in the sugar and cream tartar and boil.
When it has boiled about ten minutes
try a drop in a cup of cold water. When
it sets hard around the edges but still so
that the entire drop can be pressed to any
shape between the finger and thumb it is
ready. Take it from the fire, drop in the
flavoring and cochineal and stir around
only once or twice to mix. Pour it into
the buttered plate, or shapes, or into a
shallow pan, to be broken and used for
mixed candies.
445 Rose Cream Candy.
The same ingredients and proportions
as the preceding receipt. Boil to the
eame degree. Then take the kettle from
the fire, let it stand 5 minutes to lose
some of its heat, add red coloring enough
to make it pink, and a few drops of rose
extract. Have a buttered dish ready,
etir the candy rapidly with a spoon till it
begins to change its bright appearance to
a dull color, that is a sign of setting, then
pour it immediately into the dish, or into
cream bon-bon molds made of plaster
pans, or formed in a tray of starch.
446 Butter Scotch.
1J- pounds light brown sugar.
pound best fresh butter.
teacup vinegar.
teacup water.
ut all on to boil in a candy kettle,
stir at first to mix well but not alter-
wards. When it has boiled 10 minutes
try a drop in a cup of cold water. When
it sets hard and brittle so that it breaks
between the thumb and finger, .pour it
in a thin sheet in a buttered dish to cooL
This kind cannot be stirred nor pulled,
as the butter beparates from the sugar,
which then granulates. Out in squares
when cold and wrap the squares in wax
tissue paper.
^ 447 Caramels Lemon.
- 1 pound granulated sugar.
cup water,
1 ounce butter guinea-egg size.
4 drops oil of lemon.
Boil all together, except the flavoring
about 10 or 15 minutes. Try by drop-
ping a little in cold water. It must set
hard and brittle. Do not stir it at all
except two turns to mix in the oil of lem-
on. Pour into a buttered shallow pan,
mark off while cooling, and cut in square
caramels. Wrap in wax paper.
448 Chocolate Caramels.
1 pound sugar either brown or white
will do.
1 ounce butter.
Half cup milk.
2 ounces grated chocolate.
Vanilla flavoring.
Set the milk, butter and sugar on to
boil, and stir in the grateu chocolate and
flavoring. After that do not stir the
mixture again or it will go to sugar in
the dish. Boil about 10 minutes. When a
drop in cold water sets rather hard but
not brittle pour the candy into a dish
118
SAN FRANCISCO HOIEL GAZETTES
well buttered. Mark in little square
blocks when set. Warm the dish or tin
tray a little if the candy sticks .
449 Molasses Candy to Pull.
1 large coffee cup nnl*s&es.
12 ounces sugar, either brown or
white.
One-third cup vinegar.
Half cup water.
1 ounce butter.
Put all in a kettle and boil 15 or 20
minutes* Try in cold water. It must
boil till the drops set brittle and fairly
enap between the fingers. Then pour it
on buttered plates. Pull.
' Molasses candy if not pulled but merely
allowed to set on dishes is improved by
having about half a teaspoonful of soda
stirred in after it has been taken from
the fire and before it is poured out. Fla-
vorings may be added at the same time.
450 Chocolate Candy to Pull.
8 ounce? sugar.
8 ounces light colored molasses or
syrup.
Half cup cream .
J. ounce grated chocolate.
Vanilla to flavor.
Boil the cream, molasses and sugar
together for about 15 minutes, then
throw in the chocolate and boil till the
candy sets brittle in cold water. Pour
on dishes, flavor when cold enough to
handle and pull.
451-Fig Paste.
3 pints water.
1 pounds sugar.
3 ounces corn starch.
Juice of half a lemon.
6 ounces glucose.
Boil sugar and water together and
thicken with the starch same as in mak-
ing a thickened pudding eauce, then put
in the glucose and lemon juice and cook
at the side of the range about 15 min-
utes. Color a portion of it pink. When
nearly cold mould it into any form and
roll in powdered sugar.
452 Frosted Grapes.
Take grapes of two colors as red To-
kays and white Muscadels and pull the
bunches apart into clusters of three or
four grapes each. Prepare a platter with
the sort of pulverized sugar known as
fine granulated, and make it warm.
Whip some white of eggs in a t hallow
bowl, dip the grapes in it, lay them on
the sugar and sift more sugar on top.
Lay them on sieves to dry.
453 Grapes Glazed with Sugar.
D ; vide some bunches of grapes into
small clusters.
Put into a deep saucepan,
1 pound sugar.
A large cup water.
J- teaspoon cre_m tartar.
Stir to dissolve the sugar, then set it
on to boil, as if for candy.
When the syrup has boiled 10 minutes
try a drop in cold water. When it sets
so that it is hard to press between finger
and thumb and the edges of drops are
hard and brittle it is ready.
Take it from the fire, dip the clusters
of grapes in (without ever stirring the
candy) and lay them on dishes slightly
greased to dry. Should the candy be-
come set in the kettle it may have a
spoonful or two of water added and be
made hot again.
454 Frosted Oranges.
Make plain white icing and use it to
dip orange slices in just when it has be-
come too thick with beating not to run
off, and yet thin enough to settle to
smoothness. Or, if so good that it has
already become too firm, thin it by add-
ing the white of another egg or part of
one.
Prepare the oranges by peeling and
separating by the natural divisions, with-
out breaking the covering or getting the
pieces wet. Have a loiig splinter or
COOKING FOB PROFIT.
119
thin skewer ready for each one.and fill a
large bowl with sugar or salt and stick
them in. Stick the point of a skewer
into the edge of the orange section, dip
into the frosting, push the other end oi
the skewer into the bowl of salt, and let
the pieces hang ovei the edge of the
bowl in a warm place to dry.
456 Oranges Glazed with Sugar.
Oranges divided and put through the
same course as grapes glazed with sugar.
There has been no calculation of the cost
of the articles in this division which come
under the head of candies, because they
are not necessary in counting the cost of
meals and, further, because they can be
purchased cheaper than they can be
made in small quantities. For the man-
ufacturers have learned now to use large
proportions of glucose instead of sugar
and honey, and likewise make savings
jn their flavorings and in buying large
quantities. There are times, however,
when it is desirable to have a candy
party in the bonse and, as people say,
"it is nice to know how."
457 Almond Macaroons.
8 ounces granulated sugar.
4 whites of eggs.
8 ounces almonds.
1 teaspoon lemon juice or pinch of
cream tartar.
Put the sugar and trro of the whites
in a deep bowl together, and beat with
a wooden paddle about fifteen minutes,
then add another white and beat again,
then the lemon juice and then the last
white. Crush the almonds by rolling
them with the rolling-pin on the table.
They i.eed not be blanched (freed from
the skins) unless so preferred. When
they are reduced to meal mix them with
the contents of the bowl. This mixture,
as well as cake icing, should always be
started with bowl and ingredients all
cold , for if warm they cannot be beaten
to the requisite degree of firmness.
Drop portions size of cherries on bak-
ing pans previously greased and then
wiped dry. Bake in a slack oven, until
light brown. Too much heat in the oven
will cause them to melt and they should
be little more than dried pale brown.
COST of material sugar 6, almonds
20, white of eggs and acid 6; 31 cents for
4 dozen. Turn to star kisses, No. 5,
and note the difference in cost made by
the almonds.
458 Common Boxed Macaroons.
12 ounces almonds.
8 ounces granulated sugar.
4 ounces flour.
4 eggs. Pinch of salt.
1 teaspoon ammonia.
Crush the. almonds without taking off
the skins, with a rolling-pin upon the
table. Mix them and .the powder, su-
gar and flour together in a bowl. Drop
the eggs in the middle and mix the whole
into a rather soft dough . Place in lumps
size of cherries on baking pans very
slightly greased. Bake in a slack oven
light brown. A few bitter almonds or
peach kernels mixed in improves them.
COST of material 45 cents for 2
pound* or about 6 dozen.
459 Meringue Paste.
This in various forms has to be men*
tioned often in these colmmns. It is al-
ways white of egg and sugar, but is
sometimes soft meringue as on lemon
pies, aad some time 7 * nearly all sugar as
in cake icing and "kisses."
460 Meringues a la Cream.
1 pound of granulated sugar.
6 whites of eggs.
Flavoring extract.
3 drops of acetic acid, or a pinch of
tartaric, or a little lemon juice.
Put half the whites in a bowl without
Dealing, and all the sugar with them
120
SAN FRANCISCO HOZEL GAZETTE'S
and beat together with a wooden spoon
or paddle. It may save half the labor
and insures success to have all the uten-
sils and ingredients quite cold to begin
with. It quickens the process if the
beating can be done with two paddles,
using both hands as regular workmen
do. The bowl should be a deep one
holding two quarts.
The eugar and egg at first are as stiff
as dough. Beat rapidly and constantly
for about 15 minutes, when it should be
white and rather firm cake icing. Now
add the remaining 3 whites of eggs, one
at a time, and beat a few minutes be-
tween each one, but before tho, last one
is added put in the acid and the flavor-
whole time of beating is about 25
minutes. An essential point is to beat
the icing after the addition of each white
until it will again draw up in peaks after
the paddle is lifted from it, except the
last white which should not be beaten
much as it forms the gloss and smooth-
ness on the meringues when they are
baked.
Have ready some strips of writing
paper two inches wide and pieces of
boards (not pine) to bake the meringues
on. Place* spoonfuls egg-shaped on the
strips of paper, not too close, smooth
them with a knife, place the strips on the
boards and dry-bake them with the oven
door partly open. They need to bake
nearly or quite half an hour. They can
be lifted off the paper when cold." The
boards prevent a cruet forming on the
bottom and the soft remainder inside can
be scooped out. Fill the meringues with
whipped cream sweetened and flavored,
or with wine jelly, and either place two
together side by side with melted candy
or icing, like an open walnut shell, and
pile whipped cream or chopped jelly upon
them. These meringues likewise look
well singly as cups filled with brtght
jellies of different colors and with ice
creams.
COST of material 20 cents for 30 sin-
gle meringues or "kisses." Place two
together with whipped cream, sweetened
and flavored, inside, cost of filling 10'
cents; 30 cents for 15, or two cent? each
on an average. But the time and labor
are more than the material.
461 Rose Meringues.
Having made the meringue paste ac-
cording to the preceding directions, color
it, or a part of it a delicate pink and fla-
vor with rose extract. Drop with the
sack and tube. pieces like large marbles on
baking pans previously greased and then
wiped dry, and bake slowlv without col-
or. These rise rounded and nearly hol-
low and have a gauzy appearance when
rightly baked.
NOTE Sometimes the first panful of
any of these varietieb put into the range
will run together and melt and come out
worthless, and the next came out perfect
meringues, or one side of the pan will be
spoiled and the remainder good. This
shows that the baking is the critical part %
of the making,and that is what we never
can teach by word of mouth. At a cer-
tain gentle heat the egg in the meringues
cooks and dries in shape, but at a
higher degree the sugar melts and runs
to candy in bubbles. At an insufficient
degree of heat the meringue dries as it
would in the sun and does not swell and
change its appearance. In the brick
oven after the bread has been withdrawn
is the proper place to bake meringues.
462 Chocolate Meringues.
There is nothing of the kind choicer
or more fragile than these. Only a slight
change in the ingredients from the fore-
going varieties.
1 pound granulated sugar.
6 whites eggs.
3 ounces gr-ited common chocolate
i heaping cupful .
2 teaspoons vanilla extract.
Beat up the icing as directed for me-
ringues a la creme, and when it is fin-
ished mix in the chocolate thoroughly.
Drop round portions with the sack and
COOKING FOB PROFIT.
121
tube on baking pans and bake at a very
gentle heat. These rise rounded like
a mushroom, and nearly hollow. They
slip from the pans easily when cold.
COST ot material see star kisses and
meringues a la creme.
463 Almond Rings and Fingers.
Make the same as the preceding with
8 ounces of blanched almonds minced
very small instead of chocolate. Put a
smaller tube in the forcing sack, and
form finger shapes and rings of the al-
mond meringue paste on baking pans,
and bake them in a very slack oven.
These all bake light and nearly hollow
and have a fine glazed surface.
NOTE The foregoing varieties, which
can all be made out of cue large bowl of
meringue paste, form a handsome as-
sortment for the cake stands, to build
pyramids, to place around glass bowls
of fruit, to decorate cakes and to fill
icing or nougat baskets with.
464- Icing and Ornamenting Cakes.
Fruit cakes always need two coats of
icing. Common glaze or sugar only,
melted with white of egg, may do for the
first, and it to be very nice, mix some
minced almond in it. The first coat will
dry in an hour in a warm place.
Cake icing is the same as the star
kiss mixture or meringue, at No. 5, only
it is surer to beat sugar and whites to-
gether in a bowl, and powdered sugar
makes the smoothest icing. Put into a
deep bowl two whites and a cupful of
sugar, which makes a stiff paste, and
beat them with a wooden paddle fifteen
minutes. Add some flavoring extract.
To smooth over the cake cut a strip o
writing paper an inch wide and, stretch-
ing it between the hands, draw the edge
over the top of the cake.
To make a border put some of the
ing into a cornet made of writing paper
and pinned. Clip of the point, and the,
pipe of icing that is pressed out can be
laid on the edge of the cake like a braid
Leaves and flowers can be bought ready
made.
465 Wine and Fruit Jellies.
To make the brilliantly clear, many-
h tied, and delicately flavored jellies that
are found on the fables of the best hotels
and at the confectioners, the simple lemon
jelly has first to be made in perfection. It
is technically called stock jelly, because,
when finished, it can be mixed with wine
or other liquors and cordial?, or be flavored
and colored to make as many varities as
may be desired.
It may be as well to explain that these
jellies are transient and will not keep
over two or three days, not like the
boiled fruit jellies, but of the same nature
as the old-fashioned calf's foot jelly,
made now with gelatine.
Once making stock jelly should serve
either for a large party or two or there
meals.
For 3 quarts of jelly take:
3 quarts of water.
l pounds of sugar.
4 ounces of gelatine
5 lemons juice of all, thin shaved
rinds of 2 or 3, according to size.
1 ounce of whole spices cloves, mace
and stick cinnamon.
5 whites of eggs to clarify it
Put the water in a bright brass kettle,
add all the other ingredients the lemon
juice squeezed in without the seeds, the
yellow rind pared very thin, and the
white of eggs beaten a little with some
water mixed in first The clean egg
shells may be put in also to assist in the
clarification. Use the sheet gelatine that
floats, for preference. Then set the ket-
tle on the side of a range and let it slow-
ly come to a boil with occasional stirring.
Let it boil about half an hour, and
above all, to avoid the trouble and waste
of having to boil it again, be sure that
the white foam of egg on top becomes
thoroughly cooked so that it will g o
122
SAN 1RANC1SO HO1EL GAZEITE'S
down and mix with the jelly again like
so much meal. Sometimes, to accomplish
this, as a lid cannot be kept on without
its boiling over, it is necessary to set the
kettle in the oven, a few minutes to
get heat enough on top.
Then run it through a jelly bag sus-
pended from a hook. The boiling hav-
ing been properly attended to, there
should not be the slightest difficulty in
getting it to run through not only clear
but bright and transparent as glass. The
first pouring coats the inside of the fil-
tering bag with the coagulated white of
egg,and each succeeding running through
brightens the jelly.
It may be tet down as a rule that this
kind of jelly cannot be successfully made
without more or less lemon juice, or some
acid equivalent it will not run through
a filtering bag without. A cheaper
[uality can be mad with less sugar and
The stock having been made, it can
now be divided into as many kinds as
may be wished. But the stock jelly is
already good and mildly flavored and
care should be taken not to over season
it, or injure its bright appearance.
Lemon extract cannot be put into jelly
because it makes a milky appearance and
dims its brilliancy. Orange extract the
same . Most of the other extracts can be
used to flavor. Use wino in small pro-
portion to mix with some of the stock,
and color deep red , but run through the
jelly bag again while it is yet warm.
Flavor some with vanilla, and color it
either amber or brown with burnt sugar.
Flavor some with strawberry and color it
pink, and leave some plain, pale yellow.
COST of material sugar 15, gelatine
average 40, lemons 10, spicea 10, whites
10; 86 or 90 cents for 3 quarts or 50 sau-
cers or glasses for dessert.
466 One Quart of Jelly.
The rule is for good quality.
1 quart of water,
1J ounces of gelatine.
8 ounces of sugar.
1 or 2 lemons.
1 teaspoonful of whole mixed spices. .
2 whites of eggs and the clean shells.
But a cupful of water must be added
to allow for evaporation and loss, unless
it is intended to add J pint of wine to the
stock jelly produced.
NOTE, There are different kinds of
gelatine and some that is imported will
if bought at retail cost nearly double the
above estimate for that ingredient, while
some of the sheet gelatine can be bought
at a dollar a pound or one third less than
our count.
467 Soda Mead.
A "health drink" for summer.
Make a syrup with :
1 quart water.
2 ounces of whole spices consisting of
equal quantities of cloves, stick cinna-
mon, ginger, coriander, seed and carda
mons.
1 tablespoon powdered gum arabic.
4 pounds honey.
Boil the spices in the water about
half an hour, strain into another sauce-
pan, put in the honey, boil up and skim,
dissolve the gum in it. Use same as so-
da syrup, about a gill to each glass of
poda. Thegnmis to produce foam and
white of egg answers the same purpose
but not to keep long.
468 English Mead Small Quantity.
A fermented beer of the "root beer"
sort.
To make five gallons procure either a
keg that size from the liquor stores or a
stone jug. Take:
4 gallons water (a pail and a half.)
16 pounds honey (20 large cups.)
1 ounce hops.
1 ounce of coriander seeds-.
Rind of 2 lemonc.
cupful of yeast or yeast cake sof-
tened (with water.) Boil the honey and
water together about an hour, skimming
COOKING FOB PROFIT.
123
frequently, until no more scum rises.
Tie the bops in a piece of muslin, and the
coriander seed and shaved lemon rind in
another, put them in a tub or large stone
jar and pour the boiling liquor upon them .
When it is no more than milk warm,
spread yeast upon both sides of a piece
of toast and set it floating. Cover and
let stand in a warm place to ferment for
three days, then draw it off without sed-
iment into your five gallon keg,*stone jug
or demijohn. Let stand six hours longer,
fall to the brim, so that whatever rises
may run over, then cork down and keep
cool. The longer it is kept the better.
469 Wine Mead in Smali Quantity
4 pounds of hon^y 6 cups.
2 gallons nearly of warm water 30
cups.
\ cupful of yeast compressed , dia-
solved will do.
Mix the honey, warm water and yeast
together and fill up a two- gallon jug or
keg with it. Set it in a warm corner to
ferment, and as the yeast rises and runs
over the mouth of the jug keep it filled
up with the quart that was left over.
When the fermentation stops cork it tight
and keep cool.
It becomes better with keeping for
several months, and ought to be in bot-
tles.
It is recommended to improve the fla-
vor to put in two lemons sliced, and half
pint of brandy, both to be put in the keg
or jug after the fermentation has ceased.
470 Home Made Beer.
It helps the understanding of what is
to be done if you have never made beer
before to remember that any kind of
sweetened liquor with a little yeast ad-
ded will ferment and become "pop" in
three or four days. The difference io
strength of beers is according to the dif-
ference of amount of sweetening in the
liquor used, strong beer or ale being
made with plenty of malt and other
sweetening added and small beer made
by adding more water to the same malt
for a second drawing. Once the method
is understood it is only a question of dif-
ferent flavoring to make spruce beer, gin-
ger beer, or any other variety as they all
go through the same process.
471 Molasses Beer.
Procure a 10 gallon keg and another
holding 5 gallons, or a jug or two, as
there will be about 15 gallons of beer.
Tke
8 ounces hops.
4 quarts coarse ground malt.
6 ponnbs brown sugar.
3 pints rebelled Cuba molasses.
1 pint brewers yeast or a quart of
baker's stock.
Boil the hops in a kettle with 2 pails
of water about half an hour, then pour it
boiling hot over the malt, sugar, and mo-
asses in a tub, stir up, let stand an hour,
then strain the liquor without stirring up
the sediment into a keg. Boil 2 pails
more of water, pour it to the malt etc.,
remaining in the tub to extract the re-
maining substance and when it is settled
strain it into the keg along with the first,
then use another pail of water the same
way but it need not be boiled , only have
the yeast added and when the large lot
is no more than milk warm strain this
yeast water into it.
Let ferment in the kegs 2 cr 3 days,
according to the temperature, kpeping
them full to the bung so that the yeast
may work over and run off. TUen cork
tight and keep a week or a month as
may be desired. If drawn off clear after
ermenting and bottled it becomes very
strong after a few w^eks.
472 Ginger Pop.
8 quarts water.
2 ounces raw ginger pounded to pieces.
2 lemons.
3 heaping cups sugar.
2 tablespoons cream tartar.
J cup of yeast.
124
SAN 1RANC1SO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
Shave off the thin yellow rind of the
lemons into a pail, squeeze in the juice,
add sugar, ginger, cream of tartar. Boil
the water and pour it over. When cool
enough add the yeas'. Cover with a
cloth and let ferment two days. Strain
off, bottle it and tie down the corks.
473 Plain Lemonade.
Three or four lemons, according to
size, and a small cup of sugar to a quan
of water. Slice the lemons into the wa-
ter beforehand , and let stand. Put
shaved ice in the glasses before filling.
Clear lemonade can be obtained by fil-
tering it, when made, through blotting
paper folded to fit in a glass funnel.
474 Egg Lemonade.
Individual glasses are made at bars
and confectionaries for those who like it
with one raw egg broken into a large
ghss with half a lemon sliced, and a
tablespoonful of sugar.
Add water and shaved ice, cover with
a punch mixer and shake up to produce
a foam on top.
Individual glasses are made at bars
and confectionaries for those who Jike it
with one raw egg broken into a large
glass with half a lemon sliced, and a
tablespoonful of sugur.
Add water and shaved ice, cover with
a punch mixer and shake up to produce
a foam on top.
475 Egg Lemonade fora Party.
8 quarts water a tin milk pail full.
3 pounds sugar 76 or 7 cupfuls.
2 dozen lemons.
2 oranges.
8 or 10 whites of eggs.
Shaved or broken ice.
Grate the rinds of 8 or 10 of the lem-
ons and oranges into a large bowl, using a
tin grater, and take less o* more.accordiug
to the size and degree of ripeness or green-
ness of the fruit. Scrape off the grated
rind that adheres. Put a little sugar
in the bowl and rub the zest and sugar
together with the back of a spoon.
Squeeze in the juice of all, add the sugar
and some water and then the whites of
eggs, and beat the mixture till the sugar
is dissolved ; put in water to make the
specified amount and strain the lemonade
into another vessel containing ice.
When to be served fill a glass three
parts full, invert another on top, the rims
close together, and shake up to make
the foam .
476 OdeTPunch:
1 bottle of "champagne" cider.
1 cupful of sugar.
1 of sherry.
2 lemons.
J- cupful of water.
Mix the sugar, water and wine togeth-
er in a pitcher, and stir until the sugar is
dissolved, slice in the lemons as for lem-
onade, put in a lump of ice and then fill
up with cider.
477 Claret Cup.
1 bottle of claret.
1 bottle of soda water.
J- cupful of sherry.
Peel of lemon.
J- pound sugar.
2 or 3 slices of cucumber or a sprig of
borage or verbena.
Ice.
Either grate the lemon rind or pare ex-
tremely thin and rub it - and the sugar
and a few spoonfuls of water together
in a bowl. Add the liquors and when
the sugar is dissolved strain, add ice to
the herus or cucumber elices.
478 Catawba Cup.
To each bottle of dry catawba allow
two bottles of soda water and a quarter
pint of curacoa, mix in a pitcher, and
add ice abundantly. If not convenient
to get bottled soda, use water and sug-ar
or lemonade to mix with the wine and
liqueur.
COOKING FOR PBOFH 1 .
125
The preceding are for ball supper re-
freshments, they are passed around in
silver pitchers.
479 -Beef Celery.
A hot "health drink," sold at con-
fectionaries and drag stores. Take
3 pounds lean beef.
3 large heads celery.
3 quarts cold water.
4 whites of eggs.
2 teaspoons salt
J teaspoon cayenne.
Chop the beef until it is like sausage
meat, and chop the celery including the
routs, the came way. Mix them with
the cold water and set at the side
of the range to heat up gradually, then
let boil about an hour, add the salt and
pepper. Then strain the liquor (bouillon)
through a seive or napkin held over a
bo wL Take off every particle of grease.
Add the white of eggs and beat them in;
boil again and strain three or four times
over. Add a spoonfull of burut sugar
to give a brown color. When cold add
the whites of two more eggs to make a
slight foam on the hot drink.
To use, take a third of a glass of the
preparation and fill up with boiling water
poured in from a height. There are hot
water fountains that discharge into the
glass with force like soda.
Hot Drinks.
Hot Tom and Jerry.
Take a punch-bowl, into which put
the yolks of twelve eggs, and beat
them up until as thin as water; then
add one pound of powdered sugar,
half a teaspoon ful of ground cinnamon,
ditto of ground clove, ditto of allspice;
next beat the whites of eggs into a
stiff froth, pour into the first bowl,
and mix well ; then add one bottle of
brandy, one ditto of Jamaica rum.
This will be sufficient for a party of
twenty.
To serve Tom and Jerry proceed as
follows: Take two shakers, heat them
well with boiling water ; then pour in
half of the mixture and half of boiling
water, and keep pouring them from
one shaker to the other, until you
have attained a good froth ; then heat
your tumbler and pour the liquid in,
which sprinkle with a little grated
nutmeg on top. This will be found a
delicious drink for a cold winter's
night.
Hot American Punch.
Take a punch-bowl ; put in a quarter
pound of loaf sugar, the juice of a
lemon; then add half a pint of brandy
and half a pint of Jamaica rum ; then
set light to this ; next make an infu-
sion of green tea, one ounce to a
quart and a half water ; pour the tea
gently into the bowl, and add the rind
of half a lemon. The compound must
be served flaming, and will be found
sufficient for a party of fifteen.
Moiled Claret
Boil for twenty minutes in a pint
of water six cloves, the thin rind of
two lemons, quarter of a pound of
sugar, and a stick of cinnamon four
inches long broken into small pieces.
Add two bottles of claret or burgundy
previously warmed, and when the
whole boils add a wincglassful of
brandy or curacao ; strain into glasses,
grating a little nutmeg over each.
EIGHT WEEKS
SUMMER RESORT
OUR DAILY BILL OF FARE
A3T1> WHAT FT COST.
SIECOHSTZD IF-AJR'X' OIF 1
OOKING f OR fROFIT.'
Originally Published in the "San Francisco Daily Hotel Gazette "
JESSUP WHITEHEAD
1893.
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the office of the Librarian, at Washington,
hv JESSUP WHITEHKAD, 1884. All rights reserved.
Eight Weeks at a Summer Resort
This is my diary of a time when
I went out to gain experience at a
small place, as compared with our
hotel magnitudes, but a first-class
summer boarding house, neverthe-
less, situated on the shore of that
beautiful sheet of water called Uintah
Lake in the State of Cornucopia. A
great number of interesting questions
concerning the business of boarding
people for profit are to be answered
in this way as will be seen as we go
along, but more especially the object
I have in view is to stop once for all
the ceaseless inquiries of a lady friend
who keeps a boarding house and is
very economically disposed. This
lady knows that I have been cooking
for profit all my life and is aware
that I have become quite indifferent
in regard to the state of the market,
the state of the larder, or the state of
the storeroom, having learned that a
good meal can be made out of very
slim materials if one knows how to
manage, and therefore seems to ex-
pect that I can answer the hardest
kind of questions off-hand on all sorts
of unexpected contingencies.
"Oh," she said one day when I
was going out just after breakfast,
"before you go do tell me what I
can have for dinner?" and she put
her hand to her head in the same old
state of perplexity she was so well
used to.
"Well, Mrs. Tingee, a suitable
soup would be "
"The weather is too warm for
soup," she broke in with, " and be-
sides, I have nothing to make it of,
and Anne would not have time."
In this respect I think she was
wrong. In warm weather people
take liquid food all the more readily
and the soup is seldom too hot. I
find that the only two dishes that are
invariably^ eaten out clean with no
remainders are the soup and icfe
cream. However, I went on:
"If it is to warm for soup, you
might get a fine bluefish and stuff
and bake it with about a pound or
less of slices of pickled pork laid
under and over it, or a pompano or
two of them, broiled, with softened
butter and lemon- juice, and roast
some young chickens, and get some
of that early summer squash and
corn that has come from the South,
and a half gallon of thick, sweet
cream and a dozen boxes of straw-
berries and then if you have some
sponge cake and delicate cake ready
made and frosted and make your
coffee strong and clear, you may get
through this dinner time very well
and you have all the afternoon and
night in which to plan for to-mor-
row."
" I don't want to know that," the
lady snapped out, half cross. " Do
you know that I have had to drop
the price of day board from four
dollars a week to three dollars and a
half, because the boarders teased me
so to do so; they said they could not
stand it to pay more and I had to do
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
it, and I should like to see myself
buying strawberries for them at
thirty cents a quart and cream at
twenty-five. Anybody can go to
market and buy the best of every-
thing and make a good dinner; what
I want to know is what you do when
you have no pompano, no chickens,
no fresh vegetables, no fruit, no
cream, no cake, no nothing now
tell me that"
"Can't tell you', Mrs. Tingee, but I
will write out what it costs to give first-
class board, plentiful, reasonably rich,
but not extraordinary nor extravagant
and perhaps you will pick out some items
that will be useful to you."
So the knotty question of "What do
you do for a good meal when you
have nothing that you want to make it
with?" recurs continually. How, for
instance, can we serve mint sauce with
roast lamb in Senator Sawmill's town,
where not only no mint is to be bought,
but none of the inhabitants apparently
have ever heard of any other mint, but
Uncle Sam's, where money is made?
And here is another instance :
500 A Little Party Supper.
Jane 25. The proprietor of the Hotel
D'Arlington came out with a cigar in his
mouth and stood by smiling for a few
minutes while I was cutting meat for
supper. There was something coming.
Presently he said :
"I can't let you go to Uintah Lake for
two days yet. Does it make much dif-
ference?"
"What has happened?"
"Melnotte, the actor's troupe disbands
here to pass the vacation at the summer
resorts, and he wants to give a little fare-
well supper to-night, and to-morrow
night the college graduates have a straw-
berry and ice cream party in the dining
room."
"It is after four o'clock now; not
much time to get up a supper when our
regular supper runs till eight."
"But they don't want this till eleven
and it is just a little cold supper nicely
set on the table, nothing elaborate. I
don't want it to cost much what can
you give them?"
"There are plenty of things, I supoose
:hat can be given for such an occasion,
DUt one can't say in a minute. It is a
bad time of year for a cold party supper
no oysters. Will there be any ladies;
that is, shall we want any sweets ice
cream?"
"Miss Ophelia will be in the party."
"That is the star actress?"
"Yes, and one or two others, and two
newspaper men, but I would not go to
;he trouble of ice cream there will only
be seventeen all together."
"We must have some chickens."
"I m afraid we can't get any. I have
not seen a chicken in this town since the
frost broke up."
"Turkeys, then"
"Harder yet. I saw one old gobbler
at the butcher's three weeks ago, but it
is a thousand chances to one against
finding one now."
"We have the best of all sorts of
butcher's meats fpr every meal, but you
don't want to sit your actors down to
dishes of the same meats cold that they
have had hot three times in the day
already. Cold roast fowl would be a
rarity, and then there must be a salad
and it ought to be of turkey or chicken.
Perhaps you can find canned chicken
at the stores, and if it is not very good
for salad alone it can be made better by
mixing with white veal which we can get
at the outchers. It may be that you can
find boneless roast turkey in cans, too,
and one or two will suffice. And get
some canned Baratana shrimps and let
the boy try once more for parsley."
"No use ; the people in this town don't
know what parsley is* but I will tele-
phone to the stores about the other
things do you want any lobster?"
"I think not. Canned lobster is an
abomination. Take shrimp instead, and
lettuce and lemons."
The telephone having been employed
and yielded nothing, a boy was sent out
who returned in an hour with the intel-
ligence that in all this town of 15,000 in-
habitants there was no poultry either
fresh or canned, but one merchant sent
word that he had some nice canned crab
and with each two-pound can, eight crab
shells were furnished to bake in ; that he
supplied some of the same to Mrs. Con-
gressman Windmill's party and they
were much pleased. So this following
was the bill-of-fare that resulted :
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
Devilled Crab in Shell.
Sardines with Brown Bread.
Garnished Pickles.
Corned Tongue.
Shrimps in Mayonaise.
French Rolls and Butter Bread, Swiss
Cheese.
"Maids of Honor" Tartlets.
Strawberries and Cream. Cake.
Coffee.
Wine, extra. Cigars, extra.
Of course there was no menu card; a
long table was set suitable for farewell
speech-making and those things were set
on it; and, the waiters out of pure good
will went out in the twilight and despoiled
somebody's garden of large bunches of
hlac and snowballs for decoration.
Cost of material :
3 cans crab
3 cans shrimps
6 small cans sai
6 heads lettuce
i pint salad oil
6 imons for dressin g and garnish
y 2 a cold corned tongue
i bunch red radishes for garnish
9 eggs for salad dressing
6 quarts strawberries @ 15
1 quart cream
24 tartlets
Rolls, bread, butter
Cheese, pickles, condiments
2 pounds of cake
20 cups coffee (^ S) Java)
2 pounds sugar
oo
90
20
15
50
15
15
5
IS
90
25
S
25
3
16
501 A Dish of Devilled Crabs.
Opened the 3 cans. They proved to
De solid packed and good, only a little
too salty. It is the common way, to mix
fine bread crumbs with the crab meat,
but there being rather more than enough
of this, the only addition made was a
cupful of rich butter sauce made with
melted butter, to avoid adding the salt
drqgs, and some pepper. Buttered the
insides of the shells ; filled 20 of them,
rounded up, and on top pressed some
very fine minced bread crumbs; baked
to a toast-brown in the oven and basted
with a table-spoonful of melted butter.
Ready an hour before supper time?
To serve : Covered -each one of three
large platters with four of the handsom-
est lettuce leaves, the curled green edges
coming around the edges of the dishes,
and arranged the crabs in star form upon
them with quartered lemons between the
points.
502 Sardines With Brown Bread and
Butter; or, en Canape.
Shook out three boxes of sardines on
to a dish, took up the unbroken sardines
with forks and laid on paper to drain.
Chopped a green pickle extremely fine
and a hard boiled egg and mixed them
together. Cut long, tmn slices of graham
bread about width of two fingers, but-
tered them, sprinkled the minced gar-
nish down the middle of each with a
tea-spoon, and laid a sardine upon it.
Arranged these diagonally on two small
platters with radishes scraped in stripes
laid between. The other three boxes of
sardines were opened and served in
the boxes as they were, for those who
might prefer them, on platters having a
border of shred lettuce.
503 Cold Corned Tongue.
Red tongue sliced slantwise, extremely
thin, enough for two small platters.
Minced green radish tops in little heaps
around the edges for ornament, and a
thin, round slice of lemon in the middle.
504 Shrimps in Mayonaise.
This is only another term for shrimp
salad and it is not necessary that the
mayonaise dressing (No. 151) be used
every time.
Took 5 hard-boiled yolks and 3 raw.
y 2 cup olive oil.
1 table spoon sugar.
2 teaspoons salt and i of pepper,
i teaspoon made mustard.
Juice of 2 or 3 lemons.
A small cup vinegar.
Whipped whites of 3 eggs.
Rubbed all the yolks to a paste with
the back of a spoon and added oil, sugar,
mustard, salt, pepper, lemon juice and
SAN FRANCISCO JJOT&L
vinegar, all a little at a time. Kept the
lettuce in cold water till the last, then
shook and dried between two napkins.
Shred the white hearts fine, like slaw,
and mixed the shrimps with it. Whipped
the whites, added to the salad dressing,
poured over the salad, stirred up lightly,
dished in two deep glass dishes and gar-
nished with the boiled whites in rings and
little round cuts of radishes. Set salad
plates handy and silver forks for the
waiters to serve it from the dishes if re-
quired.
505 Maids of honor.
507 Fresh Strawberries.
This is the old-fashioned name of some
sorts of cheese cakes or tartlets. As it is
often to be met with in^ English and old
Virginia bills-of-fare it is necessary to use
the term, if only for explanatory pur- j upon the eatables showed plainly that
Washed them in a large jar of cold
water to free them from sand. Picked
and heaped them in three glass bowls
with individual pitchers of cold cream
and bowls of powdered sugar at hand,
and piles of glass sauce dishes. Cake
of two or three varieties in the usual
cake baskets on folded napkins.
It was not, then, a strictly cold supper
after all, since the devilled crabs were
fresh and warm, but what was of more
consequence than that, the entire party
expected, did not come. There was a
moonlight excursion by steamboat that
night and Miss Ophelia, and the two
ladies and the two newspaper men went
oft on the boat and only twelve re-
mained; still, the inroads these made
poses. Maids of Honor are different from
ordinary patty-pan tarts in, being made
of fine puff paste, which rises high in the
pans.
Took puff paste, left over from dinner
pastry, rolled out thin, cut out with a
fancy scollop-edge cutter, large as the
top of a coffee cup, and pressed the flats
into shallow gem pans. Put a teaspoon-
ful of lemon honey (506) called lemon
cheese cake by the Englishin each;
baked in a slack oven; took out just be-
fore the "cheesecake" began to boil over
the edges and spoil the appearance.
Served on small pastry plates, four in
each set, at intervals down the table.
506 Lemon Butter; or Paste;
Cheesecake; or Lemon Honey.
or
A world-wide favorite made of
i cup sugar 8 ounces.
3 lemons.
Butter, size of an egg 2 ounces.
4 to 6 yolks or 3 whole eggs not par-
ticular.
Put the sugar, butter and grated rinds
and juice into a saucepan and boil, add
the yolks and stir until it becomes thick.
It looks like cold honey when it is
cold. May be kept for weeks. Is good
to spread jelly cakes with and to fill tart-
lets and eclairs. It is seldom worth while
to make less than double the above
amount.
had all been there, there would only
have been just provisions enough.
The Art of Charging Enough.
June 26. This morning I asked the
proprietor of the Hotel D'Arlingtqn :
"Have you any objection to telling me
what you charged for last night's sup-
per?" '
"What would you have charged?" he
returned, with the complacent smile of
one who knows how.
While I was figuring on a dollar a
plate and not knowing what was to be
done about the odd number and the
absentees, he added :
"I charged them twenty dollars for the
supper and there was a profit on wine
and cigars, and they were pleased and
satisfied. If it had been a party of our
town boys from the college I might have
had to take seventy-five cents a plate,
but these actors would have gone away
thinking they had been treated in a
second-class manner if I had charged
them less and I do not work for
nothing."
"A very close friend of mine lost his
chance of a fortune in the restaurant
business some years ago through not
knowing how to charge enpugh."
"It is a very essential thing to know in
our business. '
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
"Yes. He took a place and went on
serving the best that was to be obtained
in a superior style on a sort ot ten-per-
cent profit plan until all the one-horse
eating houses around him closed, one
after the other and he had all the trade."
"And then he raised his prices!"
"No."
"He was a fool."
"Yes. And went on doing more bus-
iness and working harder and making
less money, until "
"He took sick?"
"No. But a man who knew how to
charge five dollars for a two-and-a-half
supper came along, bought him out easy,
stepped in and made a few thousands
without ever taking his gloves off, as it
were."
"Now, that is not the way to look at
the matter. The man who charged five
dollars for a two-and-a-half supper did
quite right and just what a portion of the
public wanted him to do. They that
paid it paid two-and-a-half for exclusive-
ness. They paid a price that Tom,
Dick and Harry could not pay, purpose-
ly that those three objectionable persons
might be kept out; and, they paid it for
better table-wear, finer furnishings and
better service.
There is a vast amount of working for
nothing in the ordinary boarding busi-
ness. Great apparent profits would turn
out to be dead loss in many cases if all
the principals were paid as exactly as the
hired helpers are. Summer boarding-
house keepers will tend a garden four
months in advance, turn the products
into the boarding-house and count so
much more made because they have no
vegetables and fruits to^buy when if they
paid themselves for their gardening they
would come out in debt.
Such might even be the case with such
an apparently renumerative supper as
that previously detailed, and this will ex-
plain why persons never become sudden-
ly rich by setting up to furnish parties to
order, and why they cannot afford to be
cheap in their charges, and why, more-
over, hotel-keepers themselves seldom
make any profit on any suppers or ban-
quets that are beyond the easy capacity
of their own establishment without put-
side help. If a little extra supper in a
hotel requires the attendance until a late
hour of three waiters, a pantryman or
girl, and a dishwasher, the proprietor is
not ordinarily expected to pay extra for
such service, because, hiring by the
month some accommodation is looked
for from the help as an offset to the
times of dull business when there is little
to do, but the pay goes on all the same.
But if these had to oe specially hired for
the occasion the cost would be one dol-
lar each in most places, and half that
amount in the very cheapest. A first-
class cook in New York or Saratoga, if
called in to prepare a private party can
generally obtain ten dollars a day for
his services. Ordinarly, a first-class
caterer in any city, having such cooks in
his employ charges for their services
when they are sent out about $5 a day,
and about such a rate the hotel-keeper
would have to pay if he had not his own
cook to command. Add then the cost
of gas, of fires, the hire of dishes and
tableware, hire of express wagon and
a hand to go to and tro, pack and un-
pack, the washing of napkins and table
cloths and other like incidentals and the
anticipated profits from even the finest
ball supper may delusively vanish before
you know how it all happened unless
you rush in slowly and know how to
charge enough.
508 A School Commencement Straw-
berry and Ice Cream Supper.
June 26. The supper ordered for to-
night is a very different affair from that
of the actors. It is for some professors
and teachers but mostly for girl graduates
who are not hotel boarders. It is con-
demed in advance as an affair that will
be more bother than it is worth; that
will not pay a cent; but, that must be
accepted for the sake of popularity in the
town. Perhaps it will turn out more
profitable than is anticipated. It is to be
fifty cents a plate for all who eat except
five musicians who are free. There is a
guarantee of forty persons with a possi-
bility of seventy-five. Orders to provide
for fifty and take the chances on more 01
less; to make nothing expensive and not
lose any more on the party than was ab-
solutely unavoidable
The bill-of-fare:
Thin sliced baked ham 5 dishes.
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
Thin sliced corned tongue, 5 dishes.
Thin sliced bread, 10 plates.
Ham sandwiches, 2 dishes.
Butter; the usual dishes and individual
chips.
Cream rolls (No. 260) 10 plates.
Pickles cut in thin strips, 10 plates.
Coffee cakes, (N9. 262) 10 plates.
Lemon tartlets (like No. 134} 15 plates.
Angel Food cake (No. 2) frosted, 4
stands.
Butter sponge cake (like No. 299) 4
stands
Strawberries, 5 glass bowls.
Vanilla ice cream (No. 196)^ served in-
dividually from a side table.
Lemonade, an unmeasured quantity
well iced.
Coffee ; cream ; powdered sugar.
Cost of material :
30
6o
60
25
5
25
oo
IO
50
90
90
E
20
60
75
35
So
18
20
$n 43
Sixty-nine persons partook of the sup-
per of whom sixty-four paid fifty cents
each $32. There was quite enough of
everything^ and nothing left; the only
thing requiring to be eked out by a plan
of dishing up light was the ice cream.
The only freezer in the house held nom-
inally eight quarts. Five quarts of pure
cream put in increased to seven quarts in
freezing and was all the freezer would
hold. Among the best things to make
for such an occasion are the coffee cakes
referred to. These were made like split
rolls in shape, then the edges notched
with a knife to make what the boys call
"dog-toes," then set to rise. They open
Ham, 4 Ibs @ 15
Corned tongue, two,
Bread, 6 loaves
Curled lettuce for garnish
Devilled bam for sandwiches
Butter, 4 pounds @ .25
Pickles, i qt.
Cream rolls, sixty
Coffee cakes, seventy-two
Lemon tartlets, seventy-two
Angel Food with thirty whites, -etc.
Butter sponge cake, frosted
Strawberries, 10 qts. @ .12
Ice cream, 5 qts. craam, sugar,etc
Lemons, 3 doz
Sugar for lemonade, four Bbs
Cream for table, two qts.
Powdered sugar, two tt>s
Coffee, one-half Ib
up in baking, are rich looking and when
brushed over with syrup and dredged
with sugar are the showiest things on the
table.
509 Sandwiches of Devilled Ham.
A twenty-five cent can of the devilled
ham sold in the stores will spread 50 thin
sandwiches. Sandwiches are never good
unless they are thin. There should be a
very sharp knife used and an effort to
try how thinly the bread can be sliced.
Spread one slice with butter the other
with ham, put them together and cut off
the edges smooth and even.
UINTAH LAKE,
STATE OF CORNUCOPIA
:
i.
Came over with Mr. Farewell and his
family of boys to commence the resort
season. It will be a good opportunity to
note the cost of first-class family living,
with a regular bill-of-fare.
Mr. Farewell has invented and manu-
factures the only successful fire escape and
in the course of the business has learned
a good deal about hotels. He formerly
bad a "shooting box" at the lake where
he would pass an occasional week, then
as the lakeshore became settled up he
built a house to bring his family to for a
few days. Then he built another in
which they could live all summer. Then
came all the relatives and friends and
business acquaintances who respected
Mr. Farewell, and he built still another
house, wherein they could pass the sum-
mer, too. But it is very likely that at
the end of last summers pleasure the
hostess quit pretty tired. I don't know
what she said, but the fact is, that this
year Mr. Farewell starts in with a regular
hotel register a regular manager,
a regular housekeeper, a regu-
lar cook and a bran new omnibus. I am
afraid it will not pay him in cash, but he
will get peace, rest and pleasure for his
family at a less cost than heretofore.
So, this is the kitchen; a summer
kitchen, truly; not ceiled, with plain
boards for a floor. I am glad it is so,
for there are no hotel advantages to be
counted. I'll bet it is just like all the
rest of the summer boarding house
kitchens, on both sides of the lake, just
COOKING fOR PROFIT.
like the Trulirural House, over on the
point ; just like Swibob's on the rightand
Barnacle's on the left. Yes, it is good
enough.
And this is the stove, a number 14 or
16, or thereabout ; and this is the cook's
hot water tank a big tin teakettle the
reservoir being for soft-water for the
dishwashing. I suppose there has been
many a fine meal cooked for a hundred j
or more on smaller stoves than this, and '
teakettle cookery is not so bad in some
places. Anyway, it is as good as all the
rest and the stove has an immense oven.
The Palmer House at the depot has a
fair-sized range and a new 30 inch broiler
arrived for it on the last train, but we
are not a large house like that.
510 The Question of How Many Fires.
There is a wonderful disproportion in
some hotels between the size of the fur-
nishings and appliances and the results
they are intended to secure. One of the
best fitted-up, most city-like country
hotels I know of, is the Devereux House
in tl^e city of Pandora, State of Cornu-
copia, but it is also keeping up one of
the silliest pieces of extravagance in run-
ning seven fires in the kitchen for the
cooking for generally forty and never
more than^fifty persons; the proprietor at
the same time paying $6 a cord for wood
and fifteen cents a bushel for charcoal
and pinching and saving in all other
ways to make both ends meet. As some
readers will be puzzled to see how so
many fires can^ exist in one small kitchen
at once, we will give a diagram to show :
HOTEL KITCHEN.
H
II
AA i2-foot range, steam chest and
hot water tank fire sixteen hours a day.
B 30-inch broiler fire six hours a
day.
C No. 10 cook stove for batter cakes,
private tea-pots, milk for toast, soft
water in reservoir fire eight hours a<lay.
D Charcoal toast range fire six
hours a day.
E Two-story zinc oven dish-heatei
with furnace nre ten h9urs a day.
F-;-Carving table with furnace, foi
keeping rolls and corn bread warm and
for dinner fire ten hours a day.
G Pastry cooks oven, zinc, with fur-
nace fire ten hours a day.
HH Hot place for the cook.
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
8
I Hard place for the hand that keeps
up all the fires.
JTJ Kitchen table; K meat block;
L dead line for help.
The reason why they use so many
fires to feed 40 or 50 people is that once
upon a time, long years ago, the house
used to contain 150 people and the fires
were not too many; the trade went away
but still, like the Aztecs, they keep up
the sacred fires.
Now here is the other extreme :
SUMMER
KITCHEN.
A One large cook stove.
B Big broiling hearth and gridiron to
same.
C Hot water reservoir and tin dish-
closet under.
D Meat block.
E Kitchen table.
F Dead line for help.
T Tea kettle.
We all like plenty of conveniences, a
place for everything, and I am not going
to make an argument against plenty of
range room. There must be a medium,
however, somewhere between these two
pictures. This stove is to serve for some
number unknown except that it will
never exceed fifty. How well I remem-
ber the splendid and plentiful dinners
that usea to be cooked for as many as
from 150 to 300 people on those little up-
river steamboats at this very low-water
time of year, on light six-foot ranges that
we could almost carry around. More
than half had to be done by steaming,
because the ovens were so small. Half-
a-dozen entrees would be well cooked
over the ash-pan full of coals with the
gridiron upon them. Right now, there
is the City of Fremont of the Lake Su-
perior line setting a magnificent table for
large numbers, though her kitchen
(caboose) is little more than a cupboard ;
the range one of the smallest ; the pastry
room positively too small for a man to
stretch his arms to pull off a coat. And
still they prepare all sorts of delicacies
in it. "There is more in the man than
there is in the land."
Supper.
Only been here an hour or two and
boy clamorous for pie already. "It aint
good for you, honey." No provisions
but some fragments of the janitor's and
contents of lunch basket.
Ham, cold boiled, sliced thin ^B> 10
Salt pork, fried ilb 10
Potatoes, German fried 4
Tomatoes, i 3-lb can, seasoned 14
Bread and butter n
Coffee, tea, milk, sugar 10
Baked custard, 2 quarts 21
Fourteen persons ; 6 cents a plate.
511 German Fried Potatoes.
So
This is the name the restaurant keep-
ers have given to the family style of
cooking potatoes. Boil potatoes with
their jackets on then peel and cut in
thick slices into a large frying pan. Put
in drippings, or butter, or the fat from
fried pork enough only to well grease the
pan ; let the potatoes have plenty of time
to brown on one side then shake them
over till they are nicely colored all
through. Sprinkle with salt.
512 Plain Baked Custard.
Quickest and easiest of all puddings.
Took 6 cups milk (4^ cents)
10 eggs (12^ cents)
i cup of sugar (4 cents)
Grating of nutmeg.
Beat all together with a wire egg
beater, pour into an earthern dish and
bake. Be careful to takejt out as soon as
it is set, as too long baking causes it to
break and turn watery. Should be eaten
cold. No sauce needed.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
Breakfast.
July 2nd.
Minced ham on toast 20
Cold ham, thin sliced ^S> 10
Poached eggs, 8 orders, 16 eggs 21
Potatoes baked in milk 13
Baking powder biscuits, 40 large 72
Butter, 15; bread, 3; cream, 10;
milk, 6; coffee and tea, 4 38
Fifteen persons ; 9 cents a plate.
513 Minced Ham on Toast.
It is best when freshly made. The
ham should be sliced and then minced
and served up as soon as it is hot, before
it turns to a dark color. Took the lasc
lean trimmings of the boiled ham that
would not make slices, iE>, 18 cents,
minced fine. Put in saucepan, butter,
i cent, and large spoonful water, put in
the ham and let get hot but not fry.
Season with black pepper only. Made
12 thin slices of toast of one-half loaf
bread, 2 Y 2 cents. Spread a spoonful of
minced ham evenly on the toast as called
for. _
514 Potatoes Baked in Milk.
A third of a peck of potatoes, 4 cents,
pared and cut in thick slices raw into a
tin baking pan. Added part of a green
onion, a teaspoon salt, butter, i cent,
and two quarts milk, 6 cents, and put in
when the fire was first made, baked
slowly until the milk was dried down
like cream and brown on top.
515 Baking Powder Biscuits.
The lady before referred to, who keeps
a boarding house under difficulties, did
not take kindly to my way of making
biscuits, it oeems too dear; but, I should
like to talk it 9ver with her. In the first
place, there is so much difference be-
tween the cheapness of all sorts of bread
and vegetable food and the dearness of
meat, that we cannot take too much
pains to make the breads good in order
that they may be eaten and the meat
saved. Then in places where one man
cook has to do as much as four of Mrs.
Tingee's girls put together and be ready
every time without excuses, the differ-
ence in time saved between our method
of pouring in the butter or lard in a
melted state and adding the milk or
water to it and so getting them mingled
with the flour instantly, and the other
slow way of rubbing the cold shortening
into the dry flour with the hands, be-
comes quite an object. But I do not
recommend anybody to make baking
powder bread or biscuit anyway, only
for convenience. It is dear and not
nearly so good as yeast-raised bread and
rolls. This is the way :
2 quarts or pounds flour (7 centsj
6 teaspoons, rounded up, baking
powder (4 cents)
Yz cup soft butter or laid (4 cents)
Little salt
2 cups milk (2 cents) or water.
Mix the powder in the flour by rapid
stirring around. Pour in the shortening
in a hollow made in the middle and the
milk (not too cold, else it will set the
shortening in lumps) and mix up soft.
Press the dough together on the table
and when worked tolerably smooth let it
stand a minute or two and it will roll
out better. Makes about two dozen
biscuits, according to size.
516 The Round of Beef for Steak.
We are going to get our meats from
Basswood City by express twice a week
or as needed, and our fresh fish from
Whitefish Bay the same way. There are
some fishes in Uintah Lake, but they
will not come out when wanted, so we
have to send further. When I was at
Basswood I found the steward of the
new Memphremagog House at that
place was buying selected round of beef
instead of loin for steaks. Not the com-
mon round steaks which the butchers
cut straight along good and bad together,
but the tender side only, cut off the bone
as neat and trim as a ham. I had pre-
viously written up and advocated the use
of the tender side of the round instead oi
the most expensive short loins, but had
m view the case of such hotels as Black's,
the other rival house here at the depot,
where they have ninety summei
boarders, at $10 a week, and still buy
SAN PRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
their beef by the entire side at a time,
hind-quarter, fore-quarter, neck, shanks
and everything. But the getting the
butcher to cut out the best piece of
round for a house every day was new to
me. The tough side of the round, of
which there is a portion in every whole
round steak, is about one third of it.
How the butcher disposed of that does
not concern us, but he charged the
steward for the other 13 cents a pound.
The choice cut of the loin at the same
time was costing 15 cents and one-fourth
of it was bone. Twenty pounds of loin
at 15 cents comes to $3. Take out the
bone and you have fifteen pounds of
meat that has cost 20 cents, a clear dif-
ference of $7 on every hundred pounds
of beef bought. This meat is not as
good as the best parts of the loin but it
ranks second best, and is better than the
flank part which every loin cut carries.
The drawback is a piece of the sinewy
end of the round, about three or four
pounds that become tough and dry and
has to be cut off to make either corned
beef or soup.
There are plenty of people to whom
one beefsteak seems as good as another,
they are so hungry it makes no differ-
ence; but, at the same time there are
others \yhom we like to pamper with
choice bits, and besides, we are loth to
lose the rich loin bone for soup, so I
called on the butcher and arranged that
he shall send a round and a loin alter-
nately, and that promises to be good j
enough. While that is on the way we
shall have to pick up something at ; 'The
Glen," where the village butcher kills
something once or twice a week, or
whenever he has nothing else to do.
517 A Meat Block.
shape and divide the tender from the
tough and cut out the superflu9us bones
for the soup boiler. There is no roal
economy in the use of meat possible
without selection. Our manager has
been over to " The Glen." He does not
know; one piece of meat from another
and is proud to say so, because he is a
college graduate and is going to be a
lawyer, and he has brought back some
beefsteak that nobody can eat. It
would require a person to have cast-iron
jaws. Round steaks cut low down on
the leg of a very tough old ox. But we
must do something with it and the wood-
man must saw off the butt of a tree for a
block.
Dinner.
There is as yet no meat block in the
kitchen, but one must be procured soon.
The block,the same as all butchers have,
but small, is the first sign of the differ-
ence between professional cookery and
poor Mary Jane's fried victuals. It is
all Greek talking about selecting choice
parts of meat to those who don't know
the use or see the need of having a meat
block. It is part of a cook's trade to
know how to select and he must have a
block to saw and chop upon, to trim and
Beefsteak stewed in gravy 20
Potatoes (4 cents) mashed with but-
ter 7
Green peas from garden 15
Corn, i 2-fi> can 15
Bread custard pudding (No, 113
doubled) 16
Rhubarb pie, 3 large covered 30
Milk 4 quarts 12
Coffee and tea 5
Bread and biscuits from breakfast 5
Fifteen persons ; 8j^ cents a plate.
25
518 Beefsteak Stewed in Cravy.
Took ij^ pounds the toughest part ot
steaks, cut thin and stewed two hours in
water with small bits salt pork, salt and
pepper. Put a. spoonful butter in large
frying pan, dipped out pieces of steak
and simmered in the butter till all light
brown, added heaping tablespoon flour,
stir to mix, then the reduced liquor this
was stewed in, poured through a strainer.
Let stew together ten minutes longer to
become thick smooth gravy. Served like
steak in individual dishes.
519 Covered Rhubarb Pie.
Took 8 cups flour (2 pounds, 7 cents.)
2 cups butter (i pound, 19 cents.)
II
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
Rubbed together dry and wetted with
two cups water (No. 20.)
Lined three pie pans, dinner plate
size, cut up into them raw rhubarb in
very small pieces (4 cents) and spread
over it a pound of sugar (8 cents).
Covered ^ with very thin crust, cut off
by pressing the paste against edge of
plate, baked light colored. One-third
the paste left over. Cut pies in five
each ; 2 cents each plate.
520 A Bill of Groceries and the Cost.
We are now to make out an order* and
send to Lakeport for a store-room stock
of groceries. The great expenses are
going to be for perishable provisions, for
meat, butter, eggs, cream, milk, fruits
and such things as people go to the coun-
try expecting to enjoy in abundance.
Besides those there is a bewildering lot
of articles to be always on hand and it
saves a great deal worry and a good
many forced journeys to get them to-
gether all at once. The hostess laughs
when this is mentioned, saying she has
always been in the habit 9! looking
through a cook book when this ordering
was to be done, to be reminded of things
that would be wanted. This time, how-
ever, we will dispense with the cook
book lest it lead us to order articles that
would not be needed once in a year.
The following is what we ordered and
the prices they cost. The calculation
was for one month's supply with the ex-
pectation of a big business to be done
for a house of this size :
Sugar, granulated, small barrel,
221 @ 7 $15 47
Sugar, cut loaf, for table, 35 @ 8 2 80
Sugar, powdered for fruit, etc,, 20
(o>8 i 60
f9 25
840
6 oo
2 OO
5 40
7 50
2 10
1 IO
2 62
1 40
2 70
I 40
Flour, 550 Ibs
Coffee, 30 Ibs, Java " 28
Table fruits in syrup case 25
Apples canned 8 gals. " 25
Vegetables assorted 36 cans " 15
Maple syrup 6 gals " i 25
Crackers, 3 kinds, 30 Ibs " 7
Cheese 10 Ibs n
Baking powder 7 Ibs " 37^
Raisins stoneless cooking 14 " 10
Nuts assorted 18 Ibs " 15
Tea 2 kinds 2 Ibs " 70
Pickles 5 gals. " 30
Chow-chow 2 qt bot's " 60
Rice i2# Ibs " 8
Currants 10 Ibs " 7
Vinegar 5 gals " 20
Cocoanut 5 Ibs bulk not sweet
@ 20
Gelatine 4 packages " 15
Codfish, boneless, 12 Ibs "
Sardines 3 half boxes " 16
Prunes 5 Ibs " 12
Citron 4 Ibs " 20
IJlack pepper 2 Ibs '/ 25
Tapioca x# Ibs "
Cornstarch 2 Ibs " 19
Beans, navy 10 Ibs V 4
Beans, dry Lima 1% Ibs " 7
Macaroni 7 Ibs " 7
Soda, baking, i^ Ibs " 16
Cracker meal, 4 Ibs " 6%
Honey, 8 Ibs comb " 12^
Oatmeal, 50 Ibs 5
Cracked wheat 10 B>s " 5
Com meal, 13 Ibs " 2
Graham, 8 IDS !' 3
Pie fruits, 2 doz, 2-tt> cans
Raisins table layer % box.
Cayenne pepper
Worcestershire sauce i qt~for
cruets
Chocolate i Ib
Mustard i Ib
Salt, table, 8 sacks
Salt, rock, for freezing,- j bbl
Vanilla extract, y 2 pint
Lemon extract, y z pint
Nutmegs, 2 ozs
Spices, 5 sorts, 5 ozs
Ginger, 2 ozs
Cream tartar y 2 Ib
Molasses, i gal
Mustard, French* 2- bot's
Barley, i Ib
Lobster, i can
1 50
I 20
I 00
70
I 00
I 00
60
I 08
80
12
20
40
II
49
1 00
2 5
24
3 50
75
5
90
40
75
H
10
12
5
25
5
2?
25
$10646
Freight charges on above $3 06 cents,
which in round numbers we tack on to
the sugar, making all the sugar cost 8
cents a pound.
521 Cooking Tough Steaks,
Supper. Cooked the
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
handsome young manager's tough beef-
steak. First cut in two ounce pieces;
pounded it both with back of cleaver and
side until beaten out thin (it draws up
thick again in cooking) drew; out coals
in front of fire and made the gridiron hot.
Brushed both sides of steaks with brush,
dipped in melted butter to prevent stick-
ing to bars, broiled over the coals about
three minutes. Ours are all "well-done"
people, but must cook the steaks rare to
be eatable, and then disguise them with
gravy.
522 Beefsteak jfaravy,
524-Why the Codfish was Dark.
Put in a pan, butter size of an egg,
level teaspoon black pepper, little more
of salt and two tablespoons water; drop
in the rare-cooked steaks and set the pan
over the coals a minute or two. The
gravy that runs irom the meat mingles
with the rest and makes a rich gravy that
many will like better than the meat it-
self.
Oatmeal, i heaping cup when raw
(Yz lb, 2^ cents.)
Beefsteaks twelve d^ Ibs, 19 cents;
gravy, 2^ cents.)
Codfish in cream (^ lb codfish 5,
milk and butter 2 7.)
Potato cakes (mashe4 leftfrom dinner,
2 cents.)
French rolls, thirty-five (3 Ibs flour,
etc.. 15 cents.)
Milk (4 qts, 12 cents.)
Butter ( l / 2 lb, 10 cents.)
Coffee and tea (8 cents.)
Cream to coffee and oatmeal <i pint,
10 cents.)
Eggs, i order 3.
96 cents. 1 6 persons; 6- cents a
plate.
523 Potato Cakes or Pats.
All cold mashed potatoes can be used
by pressing them into little pats like bis-
cuits with plenty of flour on the outside
and browning first one side and then the
other in a frying-pan with very little
drippings or butter. It is one of the
most popular ways of serving potatoes.
"It is a pretty good supper bill-qf-
fare, but wnat makes the codfish in
cream so dark?"
That is what the chief cook of the
New Hebrides Hotel wanted to know
when he stopped one night on his travels
not at this house where cream is plenty
but at the Sapolio City House. No doubt
but he makes it SQ himself and thinks it
is quite a luxury, but very few do. One
trouble was, the milk was skimmed milk
and half water, besides, and wouldn't
looldike cream under any circumstances,
and, to make it worse the codfish had
never been steeped to freshen and
whiten it. If the fish has been forgotten
over-night put it in a large pot of cold
water as soon as you remember it and
let it slowly get warm over a slack fire.
Before it becomes hot enough to cook it
pour away that salt water and fill up
again with cold and do as before,
and the third time let it boil
up. ' Pick it apart in cold water and it
will not only be fresh enough but quite
white. Put it in a saucepan" with good
milk, a little butter, add a very little
flour, thickening when it boils.
525 Pickerel Fried in Butter.
July 3. Breakfast.
The early boys caught something this
time : rose at four and coaxed two 4-B>
pickerel out of the lake. There is as
yet no lard, no meat fat, bacon nor pork
to fry them in; might be broiled, but
conclude to fry in bntter sparingly. Cut
in thin slices crosswise of the fish, pep-
per and salt well, dip both sides in ftour.
Put into the frying pans only a little
butter and fry the pieces on both sides.
The pieces are cut thin to cook this way
because butter browns and burns too
easily to let thick slices get done
through. Take up on a hot pan to drain.
Send in as soon after cooking as possible.
Oatmeal (2^ cents.)
Pickerel (3 Ibs net @ 10 cents; butter,
S35 cents.)
Beefsteak (remainder of h. y. m.'s
tough, 12 cents.)
Potatoes, baked, (3 cents.)
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
Biscuits (21 cents.)
Milk and cream (22 cents.)
Butter do cents.)
Coffee, tea, bread, sugar (16^ cents.)
$i 22. 18 persons; nearly 7 cents a
plate.
526 The Refrigerator Question.
"Our first expressed lot of meat will
arrive at noon; what is to be done with
it to keep it? The cellar is as
warm as out of doors and a good deal
worse. New milk put down there at
night sours before morning. A ham of
the janitor's is covered with blue mold
and is sticky to the touch, and salt and
saltpetre on the shelf are trickling away
in moisture, besides, the floor is muddy
and the steps are broken down are the
other summer resorts around Uintah
Lake no better fixed Swibob's and
Barnacle's and the Trulirural House?"
"Oh, that's all right; we are going to
have a good refrigerator."
"What, right away, to be built now,
in July?"
*nVhy, yes ; as quick as the Fourth is
over the men are ready to come. We
waited for you to show them what is
wanted. You chalk out the plan for an
ice house and we can get plenty of ice to
fill it."
The greater number of refrigerators
put up for hotels and similar houses are
failures through so few people under-
standing really what is needed until they
have learned by dear experience. A re-
frigerator must be dry as well as cold,
not steaming and with the clammy mois-
ture of a cellar. It is often a good
scheme where such a humid vault has
nearly spoiled the meat in one day to
take the meat out and hang it in the
open air wrapped in a sheet and so keep
it a week longer. Such a failure of a
refrigerator as that, is a positive damage
instead of benefit.
It should be conveniently located
where it can be entered every few min-
utes, if necessary, without a long journey
or a climbing of steps each time, if it is
not, a great part of the benefits of having
a perfect refrigerator are lost. And then
it should be so constructed that the very
frequent opening and shutting of the
door will not have the effect of driving a
warm blast through the mass of ice and
unduly wasting it besides keeping the
interior of the refrigerator always warm.
To meet all requirements some houses
have several refrigerators, each for a
special use. There is the Tremont
House at the other end of the avenue
with perhaps a dozen, of all sizes, from
the large storing rooms opened only once
or twice a day to the handy little box
holding cut meats close. to the kitchen
range.
ICE. ICE.
Fruits and
Milk and
Meats.
Beef.
Vegetables.
Butter.
Plan of a iarge hotel's cold store rooms, front A lew
These are rooms of good size, say 6xio
and 6 feet high divided from each other;
doors opening in front, with one large ice
room above ; all ventilated and drained
and forming one great ice house with
double walls filled with pulverized char-
coal. Thb is built in a dry basement.
Out at the Bubbling Springs House
they have a good ice house "that is made
to serve for many purposes, and it is
built put of doors, just four steps from
the kitchen ^door and therefore quite
handy. It is good because it is well
constructed with thick double walls
well filled in and is roomy, perhaps 10
xio inside. It is a two-story building,
the ice chamber being above; the ice
blocks resting upon a frame of oak scant-
ling. A zinc-covered floor leads off the
water; the communication with the room
below is by apertures along the sides of
the floor. The roof is flat and covered
deep with gravel. A spreading cedar
tree partly protects it from the sun'o rays.
The defects of this ice house are these :
It is but one room and it is the one re-
frigerator that must be used for every-
thing. When the door is open the entire
refrigerator is open and the hot summer
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
air rushes up into the ice chamber and
the door is opened every few minutes
through the day. Then it has no win-
dow, and the cook having excellent
reasons for keeping his meat block with-
in it and cutting the meats there must
keep the door open while at work. It is
more than probable that several hun-
dreds pounds of meat and tons of ice are
lost every summer through the general
unhandiness and incompleteness of the
refrigerating arrangements. A very bad
break of this sort exists at the Balbriggan
House, where the arrangements are gen-
erally very good, and a seemingly perfect
square room refrigerator, with ice cham-
ber above, as in the preceeding speci-
men, stands conveniently at one end of
the kitchen. But when the carpenter
work on this one was nearly finished, it I
happened that no sawdust could be ob- j
tained. As it was winter time there was
no immediate need experienced ; the re-
frigerator was finished up without either
sawdust or charcoal being filled in the
double wall and it remains so still, serv-
ing as a receptacle to melt away from
two to three tons 9f ice each week with
very little effect in cooling anything in
the heated season.
These one-room refrigerators are, how-
ever, not the sort to have unless there
can be more than one-or two of them in
a house, each devoted to a different pur-
pose.
The great International Cafe had to
undergo two changes of proprietors and
be partly remodeled within before it ever
became the successful restaurant where
elaborate little meals made up of the
most diverse orders of viands could be
obtained in a reasonably short time after
the order was given. There being no
room and no calculations made in the
building for a convenient refrigerator
a number of small ice boxes were first
resorted to, set in all sorts of out of the
way corners, one holding one thing and
another something else, and it often
happened that every one of them would
have to be visited before the required
articles were put together. A cook can
perhaps travel twelve miles up and down
stairs in twelve hours or sixteen miles
through several halls and passages^ and
back again in sixteen hours if he is re-
quired to do so, but he cannot cook
many dinners at the same time.
Thus it was when the waiters would
come rushing into the kitchen singing :
"Hey; where's my order? Where's the
cook?" The vegetable woman would
answer: "The cook? he's gone a travel-
ing down to the big ice box and when he
gets there he'll go excavating through the
ice to find something, but I guess he'll
be back in half an hour."
When the source of trouble at length
became fully understood at the Interna-
tional Cafe, something was pulled down
and a refrigerator half as long as the
kitchen was built along the wall opposite
the range with so many compartments
that it was hardly possible for an oider to
come that the material could not be
found in one of these drawers. Since
that time, instead of one cook and a
losing business, the cafe has kept six or
eight busy, and had a profitable career.
g
i a
H
Quail.
1
Restaurant Refrigerator, with Drawers.
BOTTOM.
Steaks.
Cutlets.
Fish.
Frogs.
Crab.
Croquettes.
Tripe.
Drains.
1
In all cases the construction ought to
be planned in view of the fact that cold
air descends and warm air rises In the
specimen above marked out the pro-
visions do not come in contact with the
ice. The long box at top is filled with
broken ice and has a zinc floor and the
drawers slide in and are cooled from
above through slits in the zinc so made
that the water cannot drip through. Of
course, like all ice boxes, the walls are
double and the lid which is drawn up by
means of a rope and pulley is the same.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
The common square ice box filled
with broken ice is also a good keeper of
fish and similar kinds of provisions that
are not injured by water. Put frogs' legs,
lamb's fries, brook trout and a few such
articles in muslin bags and bury them in
the ice and they keep a long time and
can be withdrawn easily when wanted ;
but, with that the usefulness of such a
box ends, for meat is injured by being
kept wet and by being washed after lying
on ice, and pans set on top of ice are set
in the wrong place, they should be be-
neath it.
In order that it may be clearly seen
how much is required of a hotel refrigera-
tor for all purposes let us look at the in-
ventory of the contents of one for
one day. There are :
Beef loins and roasts-^always keeping
a supply ahead to allow it to improve by
keeping and become tender.
Cut meats and small meats pans of
steaks, chops and sliced ham, loin of
veal, mutton, lamb, liver, etc., all car-
ried in warm.
Brine keg for corned beef and tongues
it must stand in a cold place or the
Eickle will spoil in the course of three
ot clays ana all the newly added [meat
with it.
Butter one jar at least, for cooking,
and probably the table butter likewise.
Lard a can put in in a melted state.
Yeast a jar just made and brought in
warm.
Milk and cream the cans warm from
the dairy wagon and the milk pans from
the kitcnen for the milk to be poured in,
all brought in to be made cold.
Fruit and melons they will not be fit
for the table unless cooled.
Ham and C9med beef for supper just
out of the broiler and brought in smok-
ing hot.
Roast meats left from dinner brought
in warm from the carving table also
gravies and sauces, a dish of fish and
plates of croquettes or other side dishes
to be saved for another day.
Potatoes cooked to be ready to slice
up for breakfast, dishes of peas and com,
half a pudding, some cooked codfish, a
dozen bunches of celery, two or three
pies.
These things and more brought in for
this meal and soon taken out for the
next cause the ice house door to be al-
ways in motion.
Some reader will say this thing or that
shall not be put in, but managed some
other way, but it is futile fighting
against the inevitable. Perhaps a gallon
of boiling hot mush will be stopped at
the door and forbidden to be put in;
but, will be left on the kitchen table and
never be cold enough to slice and fry in
the morning and so next night the re-
frigerator will catch it. That is what it
is for. There should be a g9od one and
large, if only one is to be built.
527 A Good Hotel Refrigerator.'
The annexed diagram explaining the
form and construction of a refrigerator
that was found to meet all the require-
ments at a certain popular hotel, was
printed some time ago in "Hotel Meat
Cooking" since when I have heard of
two or three hotel keepers, who could
be named, having built refrigerators in
their houses after that pattern and they
approve it. It seems advisable therefore
to reproduce it here, as it is at least a
safe pattern and not like a thing untried.
The dimensions might be varied to suit.
This gives a front view as the interior
appears when the doors are open. The
height inside is six feet ; depth, front to
back, five and a half \ the middle com-
partment for the ice is three feet wide;
the cold rooms on each side three and a
half. The drip from the ice is led away
by a zinc drainer, and the space below
is both dry and cold. The outside walls
are, of course, double, and filled in with
eight inches of dry sawdust. This re-
frigerator is built close by the outer door
on one side of a cellar basement, the
storeroom being directly opposite. It is
elevated a step or two from the door.
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
16
1 says Mr. Farewell, "how much ice will
it take?"
1 "You will require two tons a week, be-
] cause, out of the same stock of ice the
Ice-pitchers will be filled, ice cream
made, and ice for the various other
needs taken. An ordinary two-horse
wacon bed full is about a ton of blocks
of ice."
528 Potato Cream Soup Without
Meat
E~
B
D
A
~E.
B
D
C
A Place for the blocks of ice, opening
in front.
BB Cold rooms fitted with shelves.
Front doors.
C Space under ice floor and zinc
drainer where milk and butter may be
kept. Front door.
DD Small doors opening into the ice
box letting the cold air in.
EE Small doors open into a ventilating
pipe letting the warm air and vapor out.
Shelves.
One of the two rooms can be used to
hang joints of meats upon hooks set un-
der the shelves and be opened only at
long intervals while the other side used
for various purposes may have^the door
in almost constant swing, and instead of
letting a warm blast be forced through
the ice every time the door is banged, a
self-acting spring door over the aperature
D closes with the momentary pressure.
Milk and butter easily take the flavors
of other articles of provision such as
onions and celery, stored with them;
hence, the use of naving a special com-
partment for them in the refrigerator.
It is, unfortunately, a very common
supposition that the cellar is the best
place for the refrigerator, while, on the
contrary, it is generally the very worst.
A hall-cellar or basement partly above
ground and with a free circulation of air,
is likely to be the best ; and, yet, some
of the cooling rooms, which it is a pleas-
ure to enter, where everything has the
cool, fresh and solid appearance of a dry
winter's day, though the mercury outside
has climbed up into the nineties, are built
in recesses left for them in the walls of
the buildings on the same levels as the
dining room and kitchen.
"When I get my refriergator built,"
Neither meat nor soup, vegetables in
house. Took :
8 potatoes
i quart skimmed milk.
i quart water
yz cup butter
Carrots and onions from garden, very
small, about ^ dozen
Salt, pepper, slight grating of nutmeg.
Use two saucepans. Boil the potatoes
in salted water in one; the vegetables,
cut or chopped, in water in the other.
When the potatoes are well done drain
them, mash with the milk and butter and
stir through a seive or strainer into the
other saucepan containing the vegetables
The soup should be of the consistency and
appearance of cream with the minced
vegetables showing plainly. A little
flour thickening may be needed or more
I milk.
Dinner.
Potato cream soup (3 quarts, 10 cents.)
Pickerel, boiled, Butter sauce (30
cents.)
Roast loin of mutton (5 Ibs, 55 cents.)
Potatoes steamed and browned (3
cents.)
Tomatoes stewed (i can, 15 cents.)
Bread custard pudding with sauce (No.
113, 9 cents.)
Cherry p es (2 made of i can, 14 cents ;
I crusts 4 cents.)
Milk, coffee, tea, butter, bread (20
cents.)
$i 60; 17 persons, g*/ 2 cents a plate.
Meat arrived at noon.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
Loin of mutton charged @ u cents.
Leg of veal @ 12^.
Beef loin @ 15.
Liver at 12 y*. '
Sweetbreads free.
These prices are too high. They are
the prices that prevailed in Spring, but
meat becomes cheap in July if ever.
Write to the butcher.
Box of fish packed in ice arrived,
charged 19 Ibs @ 7 cents, and expressaee
to pay.
So we are to have the refrigerator of
:he last pattern shown in diagram built
in a room back of kitchen, where for-
merly was a bedroom. The elevation is,
right for easy drainage. A grove of pine
and black oak shades the roof.
Supper.
First meal that caused talk. Superb
French rolls; fine creamery butter. Not
much besides, but these are a feast by
themselves.
Calf's liver, fried, plenty of gravy do
cents.)
Cold roast mutton from dinner
(charged that meal.)
Baked potatoes (18, 3 cents half left.)
Molasses pound cake, warm (i% Ibs,
14 cents.)
French rolls (30, 12 cents.)
Butter (12 ounces @ 24, 18 cents.)
Milk (3 qts., 19 cents.)
Cream, coffee, tea, etc., (19 cents.)
85 cents; 17 persons, 5 cents a plate.
529 Fried Liver and Gravy.
Only about half the people anywhere
will order liver when there is an alter-
native of cold meat or something else.
Cut about 8 thin slices, which will be
little over half a pound. Lay them in a
frying pan with some drippings or bacon
fat and fry brown on both sides. Season
with salt and pepper while cooking.
Take up the liver and put into the pan a
heaping \ablespoonful of flour and when
that has been stirred around, a cupful ot
hot water. Let boil up and strain ever
the liver.
530 How To Bake Potatoes.
there is no better way than baking or
roasting either for potatoes that cost five
for a cent or larse truffles that cost five
dollars each. Pick out the largest and
smoothest potatoes to bake because any
size will do to pare and mash and even
if a person should waste part of a too
large one on his plate it would slill be
the cheapest dish of the meal. After
washing well cut off the ends of the
potatoes. It may not make them any
mealier, although some suppose it does ;
but, it makes them look better, and as if
they had been cared for. Put them in
the oven as a rule just one hour before
the meal. When done instead of sliding
them into a hot closet or under the stove
to become dry and worthless, take up
each one in a damp] towel in the hand
and press it gently 'together and after
[that cover the pan containing them with
the same damp cloth and keep them
warm.
531 Molasses Pound Cake.
Though there are fifty other good ways
This will be found quite an acquisition
to the list of cheap and easy cakes:
i cup sugar, small 6 ounces,
i cup butter 6 ounces,
i cup molasses 12 ounces.
1 cup milk.
2 eggs.
6 cups flour i ^ pounds.
i teaspoon each of ground ginger and
Cinnamon.
Make the butter soft and mix it and
sugar, molasses, milk, eggs, and spices
together in a pan. Mix the powder in
the flour, then stir that in ana beat up
thoroughly. Bake in two small cake
moulds. Makes 3 Ibs @ 9 cents a
pound.
This cake can and ought to be made
with a cup of sour milk instead of sweet,
and a teaspoon of soda instead of the
powder only sour milk is not always at
hand to use.
532 French Rolls.
As a rule a pound of light dough
makes 10 rolls of such a size that most
persons take two at a meal; but, as it
takes half a pound of liquid to make
dough of one pound of flour if we have
SAN PRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
18
three pounds of dough and make thirty
rolls of it they contain only 2 pounds of
flour, costing, probably, 7 cents. The
cost is increased by a few enriching in-
gredients and the yeast. To make
10 or 12 rolls out of a pound of dough,
however, we must raise them as light
and large as it is possible to do, like the
best baker's buns for lightness, only bet-
ter eating, and we have no calculations
made for poor Mary Jane's squatty little
lumps of dough that she calls rolls. It
seems so easy to make fine rolls, es-
pecially with the compiessed yeast that
has of late years come into general use
that the wonder is how anybody can
make bad ones even if they try. Gen-
erally the failure seems to be owing to
not using enough yeast, not setting the
dough in a suitable place to rise and not
giving the rolls time to become as light
as they might be in the pans before
baking. I think if those who keep
boarders could know what an advantage
this cheap luxury of fine rolls is to a
house even to the extent of bringing a
higher price for board there would be a
general cultivation of the art of domestic
bread making, It does no g9od to make
fine rolls only once in a while and miss
the mark twice as often; and, perhaps
that is where the difficulty lies, the con-
stant care to do always the same way at
different times being so hard to exer-
cise.
1 am asked "Do you put eggs in the
rolls," and the answer is no not in the
every day kind that is good enough for
anybody all the year round; but, there
are varieties of rolls of different degrees
of richness that are made with eggs, such
as butter rolls and tea cakes. It is not
so much \vhat they contain as the way
the dough is managed that makes them
good. Take :
2 quarts or pounds, or 8 cups flour.
2 large cups sweet milk (water will do.)
i cent's worth compressed yeast.
i tablespoon sugar.
Y 2 tablespoon salt.
Butter or lard size of an egg 2
ounces.
If the rolls are for 6 o'clock supper,
any time in the forenoon will do to mix
the dough. Noon is a good time in
summer. Make a hollow in the flour,
dissolve the yeast in the milk and pour
it in, add the sugar, salt and half the
shortening, stir up into stiff dough, turn
it out on the table and work it well with
the knucklej. f Slightly grease the bot-
tom of the mixing pan which you have
scraped out clean, press the lump of
dough down into the greased pan and
turn the greased side upwhich prevents
a crust drying on the dough while it is
rising and helps the appearance of the
rolls. Then set the pan on an upper
shelf where it will be warm and let stay
there until 3 o'clock. At that time work
the dough on the table again and put it
back to rise another hour or more.
Work the dough again with the
knuckles, roll it out to a thin sheet.
Brush over with the remaining butter or
lard melted, cut out with an oval cutter,
double over, place in a pan far enough
apart not to touch, rise an hour and
bake in a hot oven about eight or ten
minutes. Brush over with clear warm
water when done.
Mrs. Tingee looked incredulous when
I told her to bake these rolls only 8 or 10
minutes thought they would not be well
baked but they will. Had to explain
that the lighter an article is the quicker
it bakes that a souffle or meringne may
be done through in three minutes ; a per-
fect sponge cake will bake in 20 minutes
because it is light and full of air
spaces while a fruit cake of the same
size requires 2 hours. Rolls are spoiled
by dry oaking. Hotel cooks have their
ovens hot, hotter, hotest.
There is a patent roll cutter made and
for sale, which forms the rolls of the right
ape and makes the depression across the
iddle to fold them over by. The size
mi
of the rolls may be governed by the
thickness or thinness to which the sheet
of dough is rolled. In order that these
or any sort of rolls may have a good reg-
ular shape it is necessary after the dough
has been kneaded and rolled, to let it
alone a few minutes while you get pans
ready or do something else that it may
lose the elasticity which causes it to pull
back out of proper form.
533 About Compressed Yeast.
There are but few towns now where
compressed yeast cannot be obtained,
he express sendee being so nearly uni-
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
versal. This yeast is a great saver of
time and trouble^. Although the ex-
pense of purchasing it may amount to
several dollars during a season at a resort
it is money well spent if there is anv busi-
ness done worth counting m at all. It
comes in cakes wrapped in tin-foil which
retail at 2 cents cr 5 cents, according
to size. Will keep about a week in cool
weather or in a refrigerator, but should
be obtained from the manufacturers
fresh every day or two if possible. It is
the quickest kind of yeast, as by using
a double quantity good rolls and bread
can be made ana baked within three or
four hours. To use it take half a cake
or more, crumble it into tepid milk or
water and let it dissolve, then pour all
into the flour. Those who cannot obtain
the compressed yeast, or who object to
the expense of it can find full directions
for making yeast of the best and strongest
liquid sort at Nos. 257 and 258.
Breakfast.
July 4.
Oatmeal i cup raw, 2 cents.
Beefsteak (2 pounds loin, clear, 40
cents.)
Eggs, scrambled (6 orders, 12 eggs, 17
cents.)
Pptatpes, stewed in cream (7 cents.)
Biscuits (2 doz., 15 cents.)
Batter cakes (cheapest ; 3 pints batter,
8 cents.)
Syrup (12 cents.)
Butter (i pound for table and steak,
25 cents.)
Milk, cream, coffee, tea, 22 cents.
$i 48; 19 persons, nearly 8 cents a
plate.
134 Potatoes Stewed in Dream.
Variously called stewed potatoes,
minced potatoes in cream, and other
ways, and a favorite way with many
people. Take cold cooked potatoes,
slice them as thin as possible into a stew
pan, pour in good milk to come up even
with the sliced potatoes and set over the
fire. While it is heating, chop the po-
tatoes small with a knife point, add salt,
butter and cream, according as can be
afforded. When made as most people
like them these are almost as thick as
mashed potatoes.
535 Clabber Batter Cakes.
About the easiest, quickest made and
best batter cakes, are made with only
four ingredients, viz: "clabber," or milk
curdled by souring, flour, soda and salt.
Take a little sifted flour in a pan,
add the "clabber" until it can be stirred
to the proper consistency to bake on a
griddle, then add a little salt and soda.
There is no measure to give only that in
a general way 2 cups of sour milk needs i
teaspoon of soda.
When you make other flour batter
cases, syrup, eggs and shortening are
needed the syrup to make them brown
easily but these "clabber" cakes need
nothing but what is named above.
This is the Fourth, the great excursion
day. Flags are flying at the large hotels
at the depot and at the Trulirural House.
There is some danger that a few of the
straggling excursionists may come to bur
house to dinner and we are not prepared.
Stores have not arrived ; scarcely a thing
in the house besides the meat and fish.
So much uncertainty it is useless to pre-
pare extra dishes or even ice cream, but
it is well enough to make a little larger
quantity of such plain things as we must
have.
Dinner.
Tomato and green pease soup (4 qts.
28 cents.)
Fillet (leg) of veal stuffed (4 pounds
veal, 52, and dressing 5; $7 cents.)
Potatoes mashed and browned do
cents.)
Corn (i can, 15 cents.)
Plum pies (4 covered, of two cans
plums 28 ; sugar, 6 ; crust, 10 ; 44 cents,
24 cuts.)
Cream curd pudding with sauce (al-
lowing full price for the soured milk, 27
cents.)
Second cooking :
Fish, fried (12 pieces, 2% Ibs gross, 25 ;
lard, 5 ; 30 cents.)
Mutton chops (2 pounds, 24 cents.)
Eggs (6, special order, 8 cents.)
Milk (6 quarts, 18 cents.)
SAN JFRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
30
Bread (15 cents.)
Cream (i qt., 20 cents.)
Coffee (one-third pound, 10 cents.)
Butter, sugar, etc. (20 cents.)
Total dinner, $3 26; 30 persons, n
.cents a plate.
In this case it turned out as was half
expected for at just about the time that
the regular dinner was ended there came
two little parties of five and six persons
respectively, making eleven more to fur-
nish dinner to. Such little parties com-
ing on the heels of a meal are generally
profitable to the hotel keeper. On this
occasion there was enough soup, coffee,
potatoes, pudding and pie remaining and
the fish and mutton chops specially
cooked made up a good and plentiful
dinner at an additional expense of less
than a dollar. The party of eleven con-
tributed 50 cents each, the regular price
per me2l.
In calculating quantities to be pre-
pared it is never necessary to count one
portion of every dish to each person.
Perhaps some who take fish will decline
meat, or will take corn and not potatoes,
and only half the number will call for
Pie.
536 Tomato and Green Pea Soup.
(No. 171) the fillet of veal being the same
as the round of beef and solid meat.
The dressing is pressed into the cavity
left by removing the bone, and inclosed
also by the skirt of fat, which should
be left on the meat drawn close and tied
around with twine. The surplus stuffing
may be baked in a small pan and served
with the meat and gravy. For best
stuffing see No. 62. Half the quantity
will serve for veal, and an egg added
will make it richer. Drippings, lard or
butter can be used instead of suet.
538 Cream Curd Padding
One of the best looking soups when
the pease are green and the soup is rich
colored. This day it was the soup of
necessity rather than choice for in truth
we had a half can of tomatoes (8 cents)
and nothing else for soup unless the late
and neglected garden would yield some
trifles. Found a few green pease, not
enough to use as a vegetable, but about
two cupfuls do cents) are plenty in soup,
also some carrots and onions as thick as
straws. Where there are no herbs, or
cloves, or parsely a very small quantity
of the feathery green carrot leaves may
be used with advantage, minced and
dropped in the soup just before serving.
Made tomato soup as directed at No.
1 66, and let the green pease cook in it
about one-half hour. Made four quarts
and used one-half can tomatoes. Little
burnt sugar to improve the color.
537 Stuffed Fiilet of Veal.
The same in the main as the brisket
Our wretched cellar sours the milk
wonderful rapidity. Lucky thing
is cheap at this place. This morn
ised some curdled milk for batter
cakes and still there remained 4 quarts
more, and part of it was cream. It
would make good cream cheese or smear-
kase if it could be spared, but there be-
ing none of the usual pudding ingre-
dients in the house this comes in oppor-
tunely for a good pudding. Curd from
the cheese vats, that has been curdled
with rennet and is not sour, is the chief
ingredient in the genuine cheesecakes of
old Maryland cookery; mixtures made
too rich for everyday dinners. This is of
the same kind and can be baked without
a crust of pastry ; it is a pudding and not
a tart or pie.
i pound or little more of scalded curd.
yz teaspoon soda.
y 2 cup sugar.
yz cup butter.
i cup fine or minced bread crumbs.
i cup milk.
Nutmeg or other flavoring.
3 e i& s -
it does not make much difference how
the ingredients are put together, but it is
best to first take the dry articles and
pound them smooth and then add the
eggs and milk.
To obtain the curd set the pan con-
taining a gallon of curdled milk on the
stove when it is not very hot and let
come to boiling heat, then pour it into a
fine strainer or in a napkin to drain.
There will be nearly a two-quart pan
of pudding from the above ingredients-
Bake light brown and serve with a sauce.
at
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
Supper.
A fragmentary meal. Great rival dis-
plays of fireworks getting ready in the
shrubbery of all the resort houses around
the lake. Nobody caring about eating.
Oatmeal (2 cents.)
Cold veal (8 slices, charged at dinner.)
Fried liver do cents.)
Beefsteak d pound flank, 13 cents.)
Codfish in cream (5 cents.)
Potatoes baked (3 cents.)
Smearkase (No. 3880! 2 qts. milk,
& cents.)
French rolls (45, 20 cents.)
Cake (12 cents.)
Butter d Ib. creamery, 25 cents.)
Milk and cream, (22 cents.)
Coffee, sugar, etc. do cents.)
$i 30; 22 persons, 6 cents a plate.
"Alter the Fourth," says the report
proprietor, "we must begin and get
ready for the rush."
"Will there be a rush ?''
"Oh, the people have to come some-
timethey always do."
"There has nobody come yet seems
to be getting late."
"No, this isn't late, it is early. I never
looked for anybody to come until after
the Fourth."
"No?"
"They cannot; the schools don't close
till now, the weather is cool at their
homes all through June; the Govern-
ment employes do not take their vaca-
tion till now and so many people will
not leave their homes for fear they may
be burned up on the Fourth, or be en-
tered by roughs."
"And yet Black's Hotel over here,
has had, so they say, ninety boarders for
a week or two past."
"Oh, well, the people he gets would
not come here, anyway, and they that
will come here would not go there. He
lets them fiddle and dance all night if
they wish to, and drink beer, and row
boats and sail and fish on Sundays."
"They would not stay here a minute"
"I suppose not."
"Ana sail they pay Black about nine
hundred dollars a week
"Well, I don't expect this thing to
make any money, but if it pays its own
expenses and keeps me and ray family
pleasantly I shall be satisfied."
"I'm afraid your profits will never
compare with Black's profits,"
"Well, well; we will be virtuous and
we shall be happy."
539 Shall We TavT a Bill-of-Fare?
The answer that was reached when
this question was discussed at this place
was, that a bill-of-fare is a luxury that
shonld be indulged in if possible and
that in this case it could be adopted for
dinner and was necessary, but was not
needed for breaskfast or supper to an ex-
tent commensurate with the trouble of
preparing it
At the Pansyblossom House where I
put in one summer they had never be-
fore run a bill-of-fare but were quite de-
lighted with the apparent ease, the neat-
ness and economy of the bill-of-fare
plan. I heard somebody saying, when
the busy season was over, that the pro-
prietor intended to run a bill all through
the rest of the year after that "f9r then
instead of setting out a lot of dishes to
each person he would only have to gjve
them what they called for. The sequel
to that story I never knew, but feel sure
the bili-of-fare was not kept up. It is
harder for the cook and requires knowl-
edge of tne names of dishes that poor
Mary Jane does not possess. Here at
Uintah Lake it was allowed that it would
be the stylish thing to have one.
"But I don't see how we can" says the
landlady.
"Didn't you have a bill-of-fare last
year?"
"Why, no, of course not. The girls
just called off what we had."
"Were they sweet-voiced German
girls, like these who cannot warble out
the names of our dishes with any more
distinctness than an opera singer might
give the words? And if so I don't see
how you ever let your guests know what
you had for them to choose from. The
bills cannot be printed daily in this coun-
try place. We can get blanks printed
however, and write the dishes in the
proper places."
"When I was clerk at the Rushbottom
House at Limbertown," says the mana-
ger, "we used to have seven different
biils-of-fare all printed at once, one lor
each day of the week so when Monday
came around we brought on the Mon-
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
day bill and so on through the week
why would not that do here?"
"Would not do at all because of the
location for one thing, for it will often
happen that not a single dish that is on
your bill-of-fare can be obtained when
wanted ; but it would not do for other
reasons, because such a way defeats the
object of having a bill and makes the
hotel like an almshouse or House of
Correction where they have a certain
fare for each day; their boiled beef day,
their suet pudding day, their pork and
beans day and so on perpetually."
Then the housekeeper spoke up :
"At the Water Cure Home at Camp-
meetingville in the Great Frying Pan
Valley we used to get along very well
with having the waiters call off what we
had, but -then we never had but two
kinds; still, that seemed to be enough."
"Ah, yes," chimed in the proprietor
facetiously, "but this will not be a water
cure so much as a sort of hunger cure,
and we must have variety, If we don't
feed the people well they may be going
ovr to tne Trulirural House where they
can board cheaper."
"It is impossible," the cook said, "to
set a superior table and distance rival
houses or to get the full credit of your
more liberal providing without a bill-of-
fare. Suppose we have but two kinds of
meat, there will be and ought to be
about six kinds of vegetables, which are
cheap and attractive if properly cooked
and which make up a good meal, and it
would be tedious to call off so many
while very few at table would really have
opportunity enough to choose what they
wished as they do from a printed list.
There is just one other way; that is, to
call the meats only, and set out the
full array of everything else that is
ready in small dishes. Plenty of people
like that way best, for they get plenty set
before them and eat whatever strikes
their fancy. The great objection to it is
the great waste entailed. The perfection
of all plans is to have a new bill-of-fare
printed for each meal that comes, break-
fast, lunch, dinner, supper, always new.
That method leads to the smallest pro-
portion of waste and greatest freshness
of cooked dishes. The expense of so
much printing and the fact of there be-
ing so little to change in the breakfast
and supper menu leads nearly all hotel
keepers to get the bills for these meals
printed once for all, the same bill for
weeks or months, while they change the
dinner bill every day. Rather than do
this I would 'call off the breakfast and
supper and have but few dishes; for
dinner, as said before, a written or
printed bill-of-fare is indispensable."
Breakfast.
- Baked Pork and Beans.
Tea, Coffee and Chocolate.
MISCELLANEOUS,
White Rolls. Muffins. Corn Bread.
Griddle Cakes.
Dry Toast. Milk Toast Buttered Toast.
Chipped Beef with Cream.
Oat Meal Mush.
BROILED.
BeefSteak, plain or with onions.
Mutton Chops. Pork Chops.
Breskfast Bacon. Ham. Veal Cutlets.
EGGS.
Boiled. Fried. Scrambled. Poached.
Omelet.
FRIEDy
Liver and Bacon. Codfish Balls.
Fresh Fish. Mush. Sausage.
Corned Beef Hash.
POTATOES.
I Baked, Fried, Lyonaise, Stewed.
I In order to point out the the detriment
these unchangeable breakfast cards are
to the quality of the dishes served, here is
a copy of one that was in use at a good
two-dollar-a-day hotel. There are so
many articles offered to the person at
table, there are too many, but no more
than rival houses offer and no more than
is expected. It was a rule of that land-
lord that nothing must be crossed off his
bills.
"Our list is so small," he would say,
"that we cannot afford to drop even one
dish from it." Consequently, although
the meats might be cooked only as
wanted there were many other articles
that were necessarily prepared before-
hand and by the usual contrariness of
the luck when the corned beef hash,
the corn bread, codfish balls, or what-,
ever else was fresh made, as good, as
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
bright colored, as rich, as well flavored
as it could be there would not be one
order for it; but, when it had been put
away, brought out again and warmed
over, lost its first good quality and looked
common and stale, then by the same
blessed luck, everybody in the dining-
room would be seized with a desire to
have some. Did we try another way and
make only five codfish balls instead of
twenty determined not to have any left
aver that very morning at least twenty-
five people would call for codfish balls
at once.
But here at Uintah Lake we will not
have any breakfast or supper bill and
you shall see how we will make the cod-
fish balls go, each one to its proper
plate.
Mr. Farewell's consultation, as it
seemed to be, with the manager and the
house-keeper waj only a pretense for the
purpose of reconciling them to the daily
task in store for one or other of them of
writing in the blank menu for dinner, for
he had long ago decided that point for
himself and taken pride in selecting a
handsome heading of fine type with
flourishes, which announced that this
was the dinner, on such a date, at The
Eyrie, Uintah Lake, State of Cornuco-
pia, John Smith Farewell, proprietor:
Dinner.
ROAST.
BOILED.
SOUP.
FISH.
ENTREES.
VEGETABLES.
PASTRY AND DESERT.
Assorted Nuts. Raisins. Tea. Cofiee.
That is a copy of our blank bill-^f-
fare, as simple as could be made, having
the headings, and blank spaces for
writing in. It seems, at first glance,
that a number of stand-by dishes such as
roast beef and mashed potatoes might as
well be printed in and save so much
writing; curiously enough, however, ex-
perience shows that your boarders look
only at the writing and you seldom get
a call for anything that is in print. Let
there be stewed tomatoes printed in
place under the vegetable heading and
one can will last a week, but write stewed
tomatoes and you need two cans in one
day. It should be all written or all
printed.
Breakfast.
Julys-
No oatmeal in house.
Veal steaks (2 Ibs, 26 cents.)
Mutton steaks or rough chops (2 Ibs,
22 cents.)
Butter gravy for meats and eggs (6 oz,
7 cents.)
Stowed eggs (22 eggs, 28 cents.)
Potatoes minced and browned. (7
cents.)
Biscuits (14 fresh made, 8 cents.)
Rolls (14 lefi last meal warmed over.)
Batter cakes (No. 402 i qt, 8 cents.)
Coffee 5, tea i, milk 12, cream 10,
syrup 10, butter y 2 Ib, 10, bread baked
15.
$i 69; 21 persons, 8 cents a plate.
540 Broiied Mutton Chops.
Lay the chops on a plate and touch
both sides with the butter brush. Broil
over clear coals about five minutes, turn-
ing over only once.
Put a tablespoonful of butter into a
tin pan, together with as much water
and a pinch of salt and pepper. Shake
together and when the chops are done
let them lie in the pan and form their
own gravy.
541 Stewed Eggs.
These are eggs poached, a large num-
ber at once, then partly chopped,
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
seasoned and dished up by spoonfuls.
Drop into a saucepan of water that is
boiling gently (See No. 93) about a dozen
eggs and cook medium or until the yolks
begin to harden, then either drain away
the water or dip the eggs into another
vessel. Throw in a few small lumps ot
butter, salt, and if you have white pep-
per a little of that. Cut each egg in four
with the edge of a spoon.
542 Potatoes Minced and Browned.
edge, and you have a long roll of dough.
Place it in the tin and brush over with
the brush dipped in a teaspoonful of
melted lard and set on a warm shelf to
rise. The use of being particular how
you fold up the dough is that if done
right the loaves rise even and smooth
without a break, but if wrong they rise
and split open at one end. This is a
dainty sort of bread that makes baker's
breaa ashamed.
Dinner.
At No. 82 find p9tatoes minced and
browned in entire dishes for restaurant
orders. At No. 534 find potatoes minced,
in cream. Another way is to put the
minced C9ld potatoes in a baking pan,
mix in a little milk, butter, pepper and
salt and brown the surface in the oven.
Serve spoonfuls in flat dishes.
543 To Warm Over Rolls.
Take rolls left over from the previous
meal, place in a pan and cover with a
wet cloth, half a cotton flour sack or
piece of old table cloth dipped in water
will do. Set in the oven and by the
time the cloth is dry the rolls will be as
good as if fresh baked for such as are
not critical judges of fresh bread.
Some nights when the bands are play-
ing and rockets flying it is exceedingly
inconvenient to stay at home and mix!
dough, and a pan of rolls left over on 1
purpose may do to satisfy the inexorable
breakfast bill-of-lare at such a time.
544 Fine Bread.
Lake trout, baked, gravy, (2 Ibs, 20
cents.)
Veal pot pie (meat, 24, crust, 428
cents.)
Potatoes mashed, browned (5 cents.)
No other vegetables in house.
No butter in house.
Cherry pies (2 with i can cherries, 14;
crust, 4; sugar, 220 cents.)
Cottage pudding, hot cream sauce (2
Ibs, 20 cents.)
Milk, cream, coffee, tea (26 cents.)
$i 19; 20 persons, 6 cents a plate.
That meal used up last of first lot of
meat except sweetbreads reserved.
Bought jar fresh butter at neighboring
creamery at 20 cents a pound. Bought
canned goods at country store.
545-Veal Pot P,e.
If such good bread can be afforded the
receipt for French rolls (No. 532) may be
used. That quantity makes two loaves.
After it has been kneaded on the table
the last time, as if for rolls, divide it in
two and work up into round shape, then
let them remain a few minutes while you
grease two long and deep bread tins.
Take your loaves, the rough under side
up, and press a long depression down
the middle with the knuckles. Then
fold over one edge into the depression
and press that down; then the other
Put into a saucepan the pieces of veal
that will not slice into neat cutlets, rinse
off with cold water, then fill up and boil
about half an hour. Take up the meat
and cut it all into neat pieces as near one
size and shape as can be, put in another
saucepan or other pan and pour the
liquor it was boiled in to it through a fine
strainer. Put in a slice of salt pork, an
onion, half blade of mace or half tea-
spoon of powdered sage whichever may
be at hand, for all are good seasonings
for veal ; boil half an hour longer, add
sait and pepper and thicken with flour
mixed with water. Then drop spoon-
fuls of dough on the surface, set in the
oven and let cook about twenty minutes.
Milk may be added to the liquor some-
times for a change, making a white stew
and then there should be a little greea
parsley in it.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
The use of taking out the meat and
cutting when half cooked is for the bet-
ter appearance on the dishes, as the
pieces keep their shape and may be
placed two in a dish with a light dum-
fing on top.
,46 Pot Pie Dumplings.
To make them, whether dropped far
apart as dumplings or close together as
one covering of crust, so that they will
remain lir^it after cooking and not go
down like lumps of lead, it is necessary
to mix the dough so boft that it must be
taken up and dropped with a spoon. All
that is needed is :
2 cups flour.
i heaping teaspoon baking powder.
Salt.
i cup water.
But sour milk and soda can be used
and save powder. And to make a rich
yellow sort an egg, or two yolks may be
added. Mix the powder in the Hour,
pour in the water and stir hard for one
minute then drop into the boilng stew.
547 Cottage Pudding.
This, as well as the molasses pound
cake is a great acquisition to the list of
cheap cakes, for a good sort of cake it is,
although served as a pudding. 89016 of
the large city bakeries are selling it now
in different forms (See No. 285.) It is
good likewise as a sally-lunn for
breakfast, being not too sweet or rich,
but short, light and wholesome:
1 cup sugar ^ pound.
y>2 cup butter % pound.
6 eggs.
2 cups milk a pint.
$ large teaspoons powder.
6 cups flour 1 1 A pounds.
Make up like pound cake by cream-
ing the butter and sugar together, add
the eggs two at a time and beat in well,
then the milk. Mix the powder in the
flour and stir in. J '.eat the mixture well
with the spoon.
This makes two cakes in the common
shallow tin baking pans about ten inches
long. Let the batter be less than an
inch in depth to bake easily, and sift
some granulated sugar on the surface be-
fore putting in the oven and the cakes
will come put nicely glazed. One will
serve to slice for pudding with sauce,
the other for cake. About 3% pounds
costs 28 to 30 cents.
548 Cream Sauce for Puddings.
Boil rich milk or cream with stick cin-
namon or broken nutmeg in it and sugar
to sweeten. Stir in a spoonful of starch
mixed with cold milk.
Supper.
No meat in the house, b'rt some fish
left yet. Good country lake house sup-
per.
Fried trout (18 pieces, 4^ Ibs gross,
@ 8, 36; 2 eggs, and cornmeal 4; lard,
Yz lb, 747 cents.)
Potatoes plain boiled (3 cents.)
French rolls (24, 10 cents.)
Cherries (2 cans, 28 cents.)
Cake (No. 54713 cents.)
Butter 10, milk and cream 20, coffee,
tea, sugar 9 (39 cents.)
$i 40; 20 persons, 7 cents a plate
549-ls Fish Cheaper Than Meat?
A few meals back some pickerel, home
caught, is credited in our account, to
the boys, as worth ten cents a pound,
that is net weight. That is what the
fish we get by express seems to cost as it
is put in the pan. It is bought at White-
fish Bay at seven cents, packed in ice
and boxed; but it has to be expressed
over two railroads in some way that
makes it pay double rate, and twenty-
five pounds costs 50 cents, and there is
another carriage from the depot. Al-
though they come clean as to the insides,
the heads, fins and backbones take away
one-sixth of the weight, on an average,
of different kinds of fish. Therefore, 25
Ibs @ 7 cents and 50 cents added costs,
$2 25. Take off one-sixth in trimming
before cooking and we have scarce 21
Ibs of fish for that sum. it being nearer
eleven cents per pound than ten. As
there is waste, likewise, in all other kinds
SAN PRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
26
of meat, the 9nly fair comparison that
can be made is with the solid, boneless
round of beef (No. 516) which we buy at
thirteen cents. There is then a differ-
ence of three cents in favor of the fish,
but if we cook it by breading and frying,
the cost of fish and meat is about the
same and our fish supper with fruit and
cake is not one of the cheapest meals.
The conditions are, of course, only local
but are stated at length because they are
likely to be much the same at a great
number of resort houses.
550 Fried Lake Trout.
None of these tea-kettle cooks, either
in this house or around at the neighbors',
I find, have ever seen frying by immer-
sion in hot fat before. Mrs. Tingee,
too, I remember, although she had kept
house fifteen years and a boarding
house ten, had never known that pota-
toes could be cooked by dropping them
raw into hot fat as French fried, and
Saratoga chips neither did the two
ladies who boarded with her, the retail
merchant's wife and the photographer's
wife, they all thought that in every case
potat9es must be boiled first. After
thinking it well over I concluded not to
mention frying fish that way to her, be-
ing afraid to go into her kitchen and
take her whole pound of lard at once, if
I could ever find so much there, and j
proceed to make it hissing hot over the
fire, because it is dangerous to have a
kettle of hot lard on the fire and a lady
fainting around, both at one time. We
grow reckless of lard where we cook tor a
number of people every day, who pay a
fair price for board and have something
good to eat, and generally, besides, have
a jar full of roast meat fat and melted
suet that helps out without depending
upon it except for a few things that must
be tried of a good clean color. It does
not really consume much lard or fat to
fry in it, as the same can be used several
times over if care is taken not to let it
burn black, still, in counting the cost it
has to be remembered that the pound of
lard put in the frying pan becomes worse
and darker with every frying and at last
has to be thrown away.
Cut the fish in pieces across without
splitting it, if the full flavor of the
fish is desired rather than the fried crust.
Beat one or two eggs with half their
bulk of water. Pepper and salt the
pieces of fish well, dip them in tne egg
and then in corn meal, coat well by
pressing, then drop into lard that is hiss-
ing hot and fry brown, allowing 8 or 10
minutes for the fish to get done to the
bone. Dredge a little fine salt and keep
hot in a pan in the open oven until
served
To fry without using eg^s, mix i cup
of flour and 2 cups powdered crackers
together. Dip> the pieces of fish in milk,
then in the mixture, coat well, dipping
twice if necessary, and fry brown. (See
Nos. 13, 98 and 314.)
551 Potatoes Plain Boiled.
To go with hot fried fish there is no
form of potatoes better than plain boiled.
Pare them first and put on in salted
water. When done drain off the water
and serve the potatoes out of the sauce-
pan as wanted.
"Roll on, thou deep and dark: blue
ocean, Roll \"
Cold day for resort keepers. Fierce
north-west gale been blowing all day.
This green little two-mile lake has been
trying to lash itself into a rage and
swamped all the skiffs.
Second lot of meat :
Ham charged @ 15 cents,
Mutton @ 10.
Loin beef @ 12^.
Rib roast beef @ 12^.
Bacon @
rk
10.
Salt Por
Liver
Sweetbreads, i tt> free.
Some reduction in prices from former
lot, but too high yet, and the loin has
over five pounds of suet and waste fat
and mutilated kidney in it, and they sent
us no lamb.
Breakfast.
July 6.
Oatmeal (3 cents.)'
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
Ham broiled (6 slices, n oz. net,
equal to i Ib gross, 15 cents.)
Mutton chops broiled (n chops, 2 Ibs,
20 cents.)
Poached eggs on toast; (16 eggs, 20,
and toast buttered 727 cents.)
Broiled potatoes (few, and baked 12,
5 cents.)
Batter Cakes (i qt. with 2 eggs, No.
403, 10 cents.)
Syrup do cents.)
Butter (average of many meals, 12 oz.,
15 cents.)
Milk and cream (average, 21 cents.)
Coffee and tea (average, 5 cents.)
French rolls (16, 8 cents.)
$i 39; 20 persons, 7 cents a plate.
552- Cutting Up a Ham.
One of the most serious calamities that
ever betalls Mary Jane is the sending
her a whole ham to cut up, all by her-
self: k is a calamity to the ham, too,
when she has whittled it and hacked and
torn k with her little case-knife that she
tries to sharpen on the edge of the stove.
Her reliance and the reliance of most
private families is upon the butcher gen-
erally., to slice the ham before sending it,
but in that case good ham is never as
good as it might be because it is cut too
thick and being sawed through the bone
from one end to the other many of the
slices are of such a sort that a little of it
goes a Ion? way. We have in our kitchen
a meat block, a meat saw and a small
cleaver, besides good knives. These
things are indispensable both for econ-
omy and good quality of the dishes we
cook. Without them our choice ham
that costs 15 cents -a pound gross, and
when the bone and rind is counted
out, costs somewhere between 20 and 25
cents, might all have to be whittled away
in shreds and shavings without a respect-
able slice among them. The best and
most saving method of dealing with a
ham is as follows :
First, saw off the butt end of the ham
as shown above, taking the projecting
point of bone that is easily found for a
guide where to cut. The lower wood-
cut shows the inside of the butt where it
has been cut and the black lines show
where the knife must go to separate the
meat on both Asides from the irregular
shaped bone. There are then two
pieces of ham, all meat, ready to be cut
in slices, the thinner the better, with
a sharp knife. Then cut down the large
or main portion as the line shows, from
the shank to the bottom. There is a
bone that guides the knife down that
mark. All the piece on the right is
solid meat ; the best part of the ham, and
makes the handsomest slices. The
other side can be sliced part .way or be
used for boiled bam.
553 Broiled Ham!
Strange it seems, but it will not do to
make a regular practice of broiling ham
over the stove hearth because it ruins
the stove for drawing. After broiling a
;ot of ham where the smoke from the
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
broiling goes into the draught, the fire
will go almost out and something gen-
erated by the salt in the stove pipe pre
vents the fire being good again for a
whole day. A few slices for a family
may be broiled without the bad effect
being noticeable but when the house is
full of people it may save trouble to re-
sort to frying.
It was thought here that charcoal
would have to be provided, but the wood
embers drawn out into the ash pan prove
to be sufficient to broil over, thus far.
Slice the ham thin and broil if you
can broil it over clear coals about live
minutes, turning it to get a good even
brown on both sides.
554 Poached Eggs on Toast.
A neat little way of poaching eggs for
a few people is to take tin muffin rings,
the kind without bottoms, put them in a
frying pan of salted boiling water and
break an egg into each one and let it
cook. Take up ring and all with a cake
turner or shallow perforated ladle and
take off the muffin rin^ after the erjg has
been placed safely on its piece of
buttered toast. We call this good for a
few people, because when there are
many it takes too long. (See No. 96.)
555 Fan. y Toast for Poached Eggs.
Cut for each dish three slices of bread
very thin and quite square in form.
Toast them, butter them, place one
square in the middle of the dish. Cut
the other two squares across corner-
wise and you have four triangular pieces
to place around that in the dish, the
points oucwards.
556 Broiled Potatoes.
and if done before time to dish up can
be kept hot in a pie-pan without spoiling.
557- Trouble With the Coffee.
They can be done in two ways, either
cold boiled potatoes may be sliced,
buttered with a brush, placed in the
hinged \vire broiler and broiled or toasted
over the fire, or raw potatoes may be
done the same way. The boiled pota-
toes are quickest done and are much
liked. Should be sprinkled with finely
minced parsley and with salt and pepper
We are having bad coffee, it is poor in
taste, worse in appearance; has that
dirty color as if mixed with ink and none
of the reddish-brown hue 9f good coffee.
People here don't care much, as milk
is the principal beverage except for two
or three. That makes no difference,
however, for the C9ffee must be not only
good but superlatively so. Proprietor
good naturedly says it is the fault of that
common twenty-cent coffee, that is the
only grade the country store can furnish
and we must wait until the good coffee
I comes with all the other groceries. But
it is not that. If they bring coffee that
costs fifty cents a pound it will be as bad
when made as this is, unless there be some
other method of making adopted. I
have blamed the coffee pots and tried
and discarded three because they have
lost their bright tinned inside and allow
the iron to act upon the coffee and have
taken to a bright tin pail, with some im-
provement but great unhandiness. There
is one remedy for bad coffee but it is a last
resort. In r^tel work we go a lon<* way
around to avoid using eggs to clear cof-
fee with. It is a constant tax to have
to use half a dozen eggs every time cof-
fee is made when eggs may be both dear
and hard to get, and we make fine coffee
without, by dripping through a sack into
an urn that has an earthen jar or porce-
lain lining inside instead of metal. But
here the common family coffee pot is the
only utensil to use unless we send to
Lake port for an urn.
Tried the egg remedy and it proved
satisfactory. Put the ground coffee in -e
small deep pan with a cup 9f cold water
broke in one egg and mixed well by
stirring, put it into the pot of boiling
water and when it boiled up again set it
off the fire and poured in a little cold
water to make it settle. The coffee is
fine now, although of a low-priced sort
but only as long as it remains in that
ccnee pot. Poured off soxe into another
coffee pot to be clear of grounds and in
fifteen minutes it had turned to the same
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
muddy, inky fluid we had before, while
that in the pot it was made in remained
good and bright the whole day.
The wqrriment about poor coffee is
almost universal. The egg-clearing way
is well-known, but there is, even after
that, some attention to be paid to
the vessel it is kept in. It may be that
the good effect oi the egg was greatest in
.coating over the inside of the coffee pot
it was cooked in. At this place eggs are
cheap and we shall use whatever may be
necessary to keep the coffee bright and
clear, and not buy an urn.
The 'bus has brought a passenger.
Put him on the new register, quick! A
majestic looking gentleman, and they
say he is all the way from Rome.
Later.
The passenger only came to try to con-
tract to deliver us a carload of water-
melons every week. The extent of our
business will not warrant such a contract
at present. I would rather have fifteen
cents' worth of onions, ten of turnips
and ten of carrots and parsley for my
soups. He thinks we might club to-
ether with the other houses. After
inner he will go and see them and then
he starts back to his home in Rome
(Ga.)
558 Co-king Sweetbreads.
It is the making of sweetbreads to
press them to a flat shape between two
pans after boiling them, and let them get
cold that way. As a rule they are
always boiled before being otherwise
cooked ; not but what they may be cut
up and stewed, or split qpen and broiled
without brevious cooking if they are
calves' sweetbreads, and tender, still it is
best to do the other way and the largest
and finest that people will naturally select
for the best are the very ones that need
about an hour's boiling to make them
tender.
Sweetbreads are the whitish pieces of
soft meat that look like fat, found near
the throat and the heart of the animal
the largest coming from the heart. They
are used extensively as a fancy meat for
little side dishes.
When they first come from the
butcher's put them in cold water and
after steeping a while set them over the
fire in a saucepan of water to cook for an
hour. As they have an insipid taste that
is not improved by keeping, a little vine-
gar should be put in the water they are
boiled in about four tablespoons and
some salt. Take them up in a pan or
dish, put another on top of them and a
heavy weight like a pail of water on that.
When cold you can split them into thin
slices and trim off the rough edges.
Dinner.
Roast Mutton No. 1854^ Ibs, 45
cents.
Sweetbreads fried in butter sweet-
breads worth 30, and butter 5, 35 cents.
Green pease (small quantity from
garden for garnishing sweetbreads, worth
20 cents.)
Tomatoes (i can, 15 cents.)
Potatoes mashed with milk and butter
(6 cents.)
Rhubarb pies (No. 1143 large,
covered ; cost 27 cents, 18 cuts ; i ^ cents
each.)
Cup custard (No. i36-;-used six. eggs
to a quart milk, made 3 pints, 18 custard
cups, 15 cents.)
Milk and cream average 21, butter and
bread average 12 cents.
$i 96; 21 persons, little ovjer 9 cents a
plate.
559 Sweetbreads With Green Pease.
Have the sweetbreads previously
cooked and pressed (No. 558.) Split
each in two, dredge with a fittle pepper
and salt then dip both sides in flour. Put
a lump of butter in a frying pin to me.lt
over the fire and lay the sweetbreads in
when it begins to froth. Cook them a
nice brown on both sides.
Have green pease ready cooked and
season with salt only. Serve one sweet-
bread to each dfsh, placed diagonally
with a spoonful of pease across each end
and a teaspoonful of the butter they
were fried in (beuerre noir) for sauce.
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
560 To Cook Green Pease.
Hard water is the best to boil them in
as it preserves the green color. If they
take more than half an hour to cook it
shows that they are not worth the name
of green pease. Very few people gather
pease young enough to be at their prime
or seem to know how great the difference
can be. We get pease from the garden,
as good and better than the finest
French canned pease, by taking them
early.
Have the water boiling when you put
the pease in, and a little salt in it and
boil gently till done. If old pease, put
a pinch of soda in the water and keep
stewing an hour or mpre. Drain off the
water and season either with butter, or
cream sauce. (See No. 50.)
Who's going to scrub the kitchen?
Not I, of course. It is getting pretty
dirty by this time, the stove, too. House-
keeper comes along casually as it were,
and looks, and looks. She does not say
anything; she will never say anything,
but some people can look a whole vol-
ume. I suppose she had everything
dreadful nice and clean at the Water
Cure Home at Campmeetingville in the
Great Frying Pan Valley.
When I first came here I was allowed
my choice of four of the hired girls to
take one to be my second cook. Was
fool enough to choose the prettiest and
smartest. . Guess she will think herself
to9 nice to scrub. Don't like to ask her.
Wish I could swap her off for my old
Mike or Slim Tim, or Reddy; they were
the boys could sling a scrub broom and
were not afraid of a kettle of boiling lye
except when they had new boots on,
which was about once a month, poor
boys, for hot lye is awful hard on boots
Supper.
Butter (table and steak, i Ib, 20 cents.)
Coffee tea (5 cents.)
$i 265,20 persons, little over 6 cents a
plate.
561 Butter Sponge Cake.
One of the best and most useful cakes*
i cup sugar 8 ounces.
^ cup butter, large 4 ounces.
4 eggs (use 5 if they are cheap.)
Yz cup milk.
i large teaspoon baking powder.
3 cups flour.
Beat the sugar and eggs together a
few minutes, melt the butter and beat it
in, add the milk, then the powder and
flour and beat up thoroughly. Good to
j bake in a shallow tin and frost over with
I No. 3 9r for layer cakes or with currants
and raisins mixed in. About two pounds;
costs 10 cents a pound.
Breakfast.
Beefsteak (16 2-oz steaks, 2 Ibs loin
net, 40 cents.)
Potatoes baked (15, 3 cents,)
French rolls (30, 14 cents.)
Rhubarb sauce (9 cents.)
Butter sponge cake, warm frosted
(No. 5611^ pounds, 15 cents.)
Milk and cream (20 cents.)
July 7.
Liver and bacon, a la brochette (liver
9, b?.con 7, 1 6 cents.)
Beefsteak broiled (7 steaks, i Ib- com-
mon 15 cents.)
Lyonaise potatoes (5 cents.)
Rolls, bread and toast (16 cents.)
Batter cakes (i qt, 8 cents.)
Syrup do cents.)
Butter, milk, cream, coffee, tea (40
cents.)
$i 20; 20 persons, 5^ cents a plate.
562-Calf's Liver a la Brochette.
Take a thin slice of liver and one of
breakfast bacon for each person and cut
them into little square pieces as nearly
of one size as may be and place them on
tin skewers, a piece of liver and a piece
of bacon alternately till the skewers are
full. Dredge with pepper, place them
in a dripping pan in the oven, turn
them over two or three times while they
are cooking and when done place the
liver and bacon on long pieces cf but-
tered toast already in a dish, hold in
COOKING FOR PRO f IT.
place with a tork while you draw out the
skewers, ther. send it in.
As only about half the people will take
liver when there is other meat, and as
each slice weighs but an ounce, three
quarter pound of liver and half pound
bacon serves for 20 persons' orders.
Brochette is French for spit or skewer.
563 Lyonaise Potatoes.
Lyonaise potatoes are cold boiled
potatoes sliced in a frying-pan, and
browned with a little minced onion
mixed with the drippings. But, on ac-
count of the very general objection to
onions, at least among business people,
the name of lyonaise is often given to the
plain article, that is, to cold potatoes
fried more or less brown, in a little fat in
a frying;pan without the onions.
In this case, having no parsley I used
green onions from the seed bed very
sparingly, as much for the green sprink-
ling as for taste; partly fried the onions
in the drippings before putting the po-
tatoes in. Potatoes this way should be
sliced small.
But who is going to scrub the kitchen?
My gracious 1 And the housekeeper,
from the Water Cure Home has been in
since breakfast looking harder than
ever. And there is my "sec." A great
singer she is, with not the least intention
of having a scrub out, singing in chorus
with three other German girls, and wip-
ing rjans, not at the hotel rate of a mile
a minute, but at about the eighth of a
mile an hour. It is a very pretty pic-nic,
this summer resort business, at present
and I hate to break it up.
"Shall we gather at the rivei
The beautiful, beautiful river."
That is what they are singing but not
in the same tongue. They have it :
I
Sammeln wir am Strom uns Alle,
Wo die Engel warten schon,
Und die Wasser wie Crystalle
Fliessen bin vor Gottes Thron.
CHOR.
I a, wir sammeln uns am Strome,
Dem herrlichen, dem herrlichen
Strome ;
Sammeln uns am Lebens Strom,
Der da fliesst von Gottes Thron.
II
Dort, wo an des Strom's Gestade
Sich die Silber-VVelle brichj.
Preisen ewig wir die Gnadc
An dem Tag voll Glanz und Licht,
CHOR.
Ja, wir sammeln unsgam Strome, etc.
Ill
Ehe wir zum Strom gelangen,
Legen jede Last win hin ;
Dort als Sieger zu empfangen
Kron' und Purpur zum Gewinn.
CHOR.
Ja, wir sammeln uns am Strome etc.
IV
In des Stromes hellem Spiegel
Nimmt man Jesus Antlitz wahr,
Und des Tpdes Schloss und Riegel
Trennt nicht mehrdie heil'ge Scbaar.
CHOR.
Ja, wir sammeln uns am Strome etc.
V *
An den Silberstrom im Leben
Schliesst sich unser Pilgerlauf,
Und des Herzens heilig Leben
Geht in Wonnejubel auf.
CHOR.
Ja, wir sammem uns am Strome etc.
Dinner.
Nudel soup (4 qts, 12 cents.)
Rib ends of beef (No. 144, but smallei
cuts 30 cents.)
I '.rowned potatoes (No. 157 5 cents.)
Baked pork and beans (No. 386
beans i Ib, 4 ; pork ^3 Ib 5 9 cents for 2
quarts or 10 orders.)
Tomatoes (i can, 15 cents.)
Rhubard pie (cheap short crust, 3 pie*,
21 cents.)
Milk 20, butter 5, bread 6, coffee and
sugar 6 (37 cents.)
$i 29; 20 persons, 6y 2 cents a plate.
5 64 -Nude Is, Noodles or No miles
Paste.
There was a rather funny passage oi
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
comment and rejoinder not long since be-
tween certain New York and Philadel-
phia editors, occasioned by the former
having seen "Nudels" somewhere for the
first time and the latter remarking that
his friend would see nudels or noodles
very frequently indeed if he would visit
the good land of Pennsylvania. It is
just barely possible that neither of these
had ever recognized * 'nudels" in the
French nouilles soup of their several city
hotels and restaurants. Undoubtedly
German nudel is the proper word and the
nudel is the original German home-
made macaroni.
To make nudels is an extremely sim-
ple matter if you start right and there is
no real need of the trouble being taken
of drying the dough before or after
shredding it. Drop the yolks of two : . . ,. , . ,
eggs in a cup, add flour by the teaspoon- j We see this dish with all these names
ftf and a little salt and stir together to and others besides in hotel biils-of-fare.
This is something that
make it a prettier color and show up the
nudels better put in a tablespoonful of
burnt sugar coloring. Let it boil again
and fifteen minutes before dinner time
throw in the nudels and let cook until
time to serve.
At the Monegaw White and Black
Sulphur Springs Hotel, I used to make
nudel soup almost daily for a poor lady
in the last stage of consumption who
could eat a plateful of this farinaceous
sustenance every day for weeks after she
was past every other kind of food.
566 Beans Baked in Jars, or Boston
Baked, or Potted Beans.
make it a stiff yellow dough. Then turn
it out on to the table and work more
flour in as long as the yolks will take up
any. Next, roll out the lump till it is as
thin as a knife blade, dust it all over
with flour, cut it into bands and lay one
on top of the other the flour keeps
them from sticking together and then
with a sharp knife cut off the nudels in
shreds no thicker than straws and all of
one length, which will be the width of
the bands of dough. Shake the shreds
apart and dust with flour and slide them
into a dry pan to keep until the soup is
ready to receive them. Any surplus
flour may be got rid of by shaking the
nudels around in a seive, and if to go in
a very clear soup or consomme (139) they
can be parboiled separately first and
dipped up with a skimmer.
565 Nudel or Noodel Soup.
It has no particular or special flavor-
ings beyond the nudels or nouilles paste.
Make as rich a broth as the meat and
bones at your disposal will allow, by
boiling them several hours, with a bunch
of the ordinary soup vegetables and
a stalk of celery. Strain the broth into
a clean saucepan, skim off all the grease,
add a spoonful or two of tomato juice or
catsup, salt and white pepper and a little
flour thickening, and if you wish to
is spmetmng mat we can never
have at this little summer house, for the
cooking arrangements are not right.
There is a very wide-spread custom
among hotel-keepers of having baked
beans and brown bread served hot
for Sunday breakfast. It is generally
thought that a brick oven is an indis-
pensable requirement for the baking, yet
at the Rathburn House at the Moun-
tain Gap, we used to bake beans most
perfectly in the range in which the night-
watchman kept up a slow fire all night.
On account of the expense of fuel we
only baked once a week and then used
two jars of a larger size, than is ordi-
narily required, that there might be cold
beans for several days after. For a gal-
lon jar take :
8 cups of navy beans (14 cents.)
y<i cup molasses (2 cents.)
i tablespoon salt.
V 2 pound salt pork (5 cents.)
Supposing they are to be baked during
Saturday night, put them in water to
soak in the morning, and set the pan in
a warm corner. At night drain away
the water that remains, put the beans in
the jar, also the molasses, salt and piece
of Dork and pour in fresh water enough
to De about an inch above the beans.
Put on the lid or a little plate and set the
jar in the oven. It is a mistake to get up
a great fire and keep the beans furiously
boiling as some do, that try it for the
first time; they have not the taste oi
33
COOKING FOR PRO f IT.
baked beans when done; but keep a
slow and steady fire and let the jar TC-
main in the oven 8 or 10 hours. They
should come out brown on top, yet not
quite without water at bottom.
567 Canned Tomatoes as a Vege-
table.
Let the tomatoes stew down to dry out
the surplus juice if possible, instead of
adding bread crumbs to thicken them.
Canned tomatoes are vastly improved (in
the way of being solid packed) over what
they were a few years ago, when they
were generally colorless and watery.
While they are stewing add salt and J>ep-
per and a small piece of butter if afford-
ed. If bread crumbs are added mince
thein very fine first, or better still, do as
they do at Black's, for their 90 boarders;
put the cold rolls in a pan of cold water
and after a few minutes drain the water
off and squeeze the bread dry. This
soaked and squeezed bread is called
panada. It is used for chicken stuffing
as well as to thicken tomatoes.
"When we're rich we ride in chaises,
When we're poor we walk (or worK)
like blazes!"
Hudibras (or some other fellow.)
The deuce take this disappointing sum-
mer resort business. Here is a week gone
and nobody has come yet. Proprietor
evidently disappointed; feels like one
forsaken ; has gone and got a saw and
hatchet and ;<I tearing up and repairing
the dilapidated cellar steps with his near-
ly new nfty-dollar summer resort suit on.
That's a great way to save expenses. I
feel sorry for his suit but not so sorry for
him as I should be for a .poor man who
might have spent everything getting ready
for a resort bnsiness that never comes
after all. One week is nothing if one
only knew what is to come. If one week
goes by and brings nobody why may not
the next and the next? There may be a
host of summer tourists on the way v;ho
will fill all the rooms and ask for cots and
tents, and beds even on the roof of the
house, for all we know, but suppose a
rainy spell or a cold spell intervene and
they never get here. And they say that
at this time last year there were over forty
people visiting here. When a man who
has been keeping open house for years,
at last provides himself with a real hotel
register with $2.00 per day printed on
the top of every page, it does seem 'as
though by that act he had alienated
every friend he had in the world. That's
whai makes the proprietor tired. He is
tired 9f playing the lone fisherman ; tired
of sitting on the piazza seeing the 'bus
come back and waiting my darling sum-
mer boarder for thee ; tired of hearing his
hired girls sing the beautiful river; tired
of seeing his boat boy in the big sailor
hat idly sitting on his lone rock by the
sea; tired of thinking that somebody's
coming when the dew drops fall; tiredof
resting and gone to work.
568 How to Scrub th^ Kitchen.
Swish, Bang !
. Why, it is a real relief to see the boiling
hot suds and lye water dash around and
deluge tables, walls, shelves, stove and
floor once more, after all these years
endurance of that vile, slimy, push-the-
dirt-in-the-corners-and-leave-it-thereway
of mopping the horrible painted, grained
and varnished kitchens of the present
idiotic fashion. What! let the spiders
build webs over the range and stay there
the year around because the painted walls
are too good to have hot suds thrown
upon them?
Now, I hope that housekeeper from the
Great Frying Pan Valley will stay away
while I scald something. This is my
water cure, and my oldfMike and Slim
Jim and Reddy know it is a good one.
I want to scald the winter and spring
mouldiness, the bugs and roaches, flies,
muddaubers, daddy-longlegs, spiders,
, centipedes, mice,toads, snails and things,
and there will be no reserved seats foi
spectators for a while. One afternoon,
not long since, I went to show an old
second of mine who is pastry cook at the
Bendebeer House at Bingen-on-the-
Bayou, how to make the Kaaterskill flan-
nel rolls, sometimes called German puffs,
that are just now the fashion, and while
there had a chance to try the efficacy of
boiling water. That house, too, has a
painted and varnished kitchen with every-
thing as inconveniently placed as all the
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTES
34
modern improvements could possibly be,
and altogether too nice for cleanliness.
There are patent do9rs with patent springs
to shut them up quick to keep the fresh
air out; patent windows with nickel-
plated fastenings and blinds and ^screens
and shutters to keep the foul air in. The
meat block is at the other end of the
table distant from the broiler ; the pastry
room is two rooms distant from the oven ;
the kitchen ftoor is covered with oilcloth
and a girl slimes it over with a mop at
eleven every morning, and the cock-
roach population of that fine house is
over a hundred millions (estimated).
Seeing an odd million or so of the abomi-
nable insects roosting in a bunch under a
low shelf near the range I could not
resist the temptation to sling a two-quart
dipper of hot boiling water. Brought
them all down at one shot. But, as if that i use d to scrub
was not enough, from some painted and horoughly as the
and go back to their old haunts.
It is all egregious folly making kitchens
too good to stand boiling water. At
some hotels that have been rebuilt two
or three times and thereby cured of the
first follies and made right at last. They
have stone floors in the kitchens even
when up stairs, and tile drains where the
water may flow free. The old and nat-
ural style of kitchen had massive oaken
beams and rafters, solid oaken tables and
walls or wainscot that could be scrubbed.
Every time I chop the fins and head off
a fish, or strike abroiling chicken with
the side of the cleaver to flatten it for
the gridiron a spray of animal juices flies
and strikes somewhere. It may be scarce-
ly visible at one time yet it coats over
the walls after a whlie. On the river we
call the dividing walls bulkheads and we
grained little cuddy hole underneath a lot
of mice skipped out,for the hot water had
iallen into a breeding place that had been
undisturbed perhaps since the house was
built. It being none of my funeral I left
the place before the cook came home.
Swash, Zip!
There's that housekeeper from Camp-
meetingville looking again, and I guess
she is laughing now. But, for pity's sake,
what made her skip away so quick? There
was no danger. Guess I can hit where I
aim, if she can't, and did not aim her way.
Boiling water and plenty of it, is a gpod
thing to fight a mutinous boat's crew with.
It is an infallible exterminator. This
method of hydraulic scrubbing is new to
her. Wants a hose and tank of boiling
water to do it up perfectly. She was look-
ing to see where the water goes when it is
brushed off the tables and stove and falls
from the walls. Where does she think it
goes? Where does she think the flies
comes from that she spends half her life
fighting to death ? They come out of the
ground, under damp floors where there
are crumbs and sweepings and decaying
matter. That is where this scalding lye
and soap water is going and it will kll
more flies in their infancy than her suf
focating insect powder ever will. Insec
powder does not kill. It is necessary to
take up the vermin in their apparentl;
dead state and bum them, otherwise
after a few hours they begin to kick, the_
get up and look around, snake themselve
these bulkheads as
tables and floors and
we found that after scrubbing with
rooms dipped in a tub of hot water con-
aining some lye or soap, if the water we
insed off with was likewise boiling hot
he boards dried much whiter than if
insed off with cold water.
Oh 1 how white your tables are dry-
ng?
"Yes, of course they're white did you
hink I was going to mop them?"
"Housekeeper says we can get a tub of
x>iling suds and do the pantry that
way."
"Ah, wretched hypocrites, you can get
awfully enthusastic over it now the work
is done. Get out."
It is not so ranch of a pic-nic for the
waiter girls when these summer houses
fill up at last. The reason why the girls
at that same Bendebeer House al Bingen-
on-the-Bayou looked so pale and powd-
ered and rouged so ridiculously was not
because they were dissipated as some
thought and said, but because the ne-
cessity of keeping their pink gowns
starched out as wide, stiff and sharp al-
most as mowing machines robbed them
of hours of sleep. I should like to know
if anybody thought they could pay for
all mat laundry work out of their wages
their linen cuffs and little frilled aprons
and white neck gear, fresh ever dinner
time. They rose at three in the morning
taking turns by squads to have the use*
of the laundry before the regular laundry
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
hands came on ; in the interval between
dinner and supper they had to po and do
something else to the duds anc at night
after the dining room doors were closed
and the laundry hands had vacated the
place they took'possession of the starching
and ironing tables for several hours at a
spell. Misery loves company and they did
not seem to know they were suffering as
long as all the other girls had to go through
the same ordeal. But it did make them
pale and gaunt to a degree that the regu-
lar day work alone would not have
done. Then they piled on the artificial
colors.
569 Trouble witn Steam Chest and
Vegetables.
The caustic concentrated lye we buy
in cans has to be used in moderation ; the
steam from it alone caused a painful
ulceration of the breathing apparatus of
a lot of us fellows once where we threw it
around too carelessly. The old-fashioned
ash-hopper lye is doubtless as danger-
ous if boiled down strong. It was at the
Uncomphagre House, out in the Rath-
skeller Range of mountains, Slim Jim
Dalton was my second then. He was
the most cleanly boy I ever knew. He
had just quit the Quaintuple House at
Turtle Key, because he could get noth-
ing but sea water there to scrub with,
and it would not make a lather. I doubt
whether he would have taken the key as
a gift, or a whole bunch of keys in
Grouper Inlet if they were without soft
water to make soap suds with. But he
could never be a good cook for he seemed
to be devoid of the senses of taste and
smell. A thing might be burning up on
top of the range for an hour before ever
he would find it out, and then he was in-
dolent. If he scrubbed the floor until it
was as white as a table-cloth it seemed to
be only that he might have the luxury of
rolling down to sleep upon it withput
soiling his white shirt, and after draining
the steam chest dry he often forgot or
neglected to fill it again, and the result
was that the pipes which take the water
down into the tire-backs often went dry
and burnt a good way up, and that makes
one of the worst of smells and taints the
vegetables that are steamed over the steam
chest for days afterwards. Another thing,
there was no ice, and the water the
pared potatoes were kept in would hardly
stay sweet over night.
We have to keep potatoes and other
vegetables after they have been pared
ready for breakfast covered with water,
otherwise they turn black and wilt in a
short time, but it is necassary if any are
left over to put them in fresh water and
let them be the next to be used. This
Slim would notalwavs do, and the pota-
toes at the bottom of the keg acquired a
bad smell. We had a lot of awful par-
ticular people in that house, and one day
after those bad potatoes had been steam-
ed over that badly burned steam chest
some of them made a grand kick and the
proprietor who did not know what was
the matter any more than a child, got
clear off his head about the reputation of
his house. I promised there should be
no more cause for complaint and Slim
turned over a new leaf with his potatoes ;
threw away the wooden keg and got two
stone jars and kept them scalded out.
But we did not know what to do with the
steam chest. The foul smell was caused
by the starchy sediment that drips from
steaming vegetables going down into the
pipes and burning there when the pipes
get dry. I suppose the only way
to clean them was to take them off, but
that we could not do. Slim thought
concentrated lye was good for everything
and put a can in the steam chest and let
it dissolve. The burnt stuff was not the
right sort for lye to act upon, but it
seemed to eat away by degrees, so we
kept it up for days and weeks, drawing
the lye water to scrub with and putting
in fresh every morning and living in the
steam from the boiling lye until it had
nearly put the whole of us, seven in all
who worked in the kitchen, past working
at all, our lungs seemed all on fire and
we had not the least idea of what was
causing the sickness. The truth dawned
upon us at last, and then I banished
concentrated lye from the place entirely
and drove a wooden plug into the faucet
so that Slim could not drain the steam
chest dry any more. The cause once
understood and removed, we soon re-
covered from the ailment. But Slim was
all broke up. The floors lost their white-
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
ness. He took to looking out of the
windows and whistling 10 himself, and
soon left me, to find some other place
where the water was all soft and where
they made in unlimited abundance their
own soft soap.
Five arrivals this evening. They have
come for the season. They are either
frcftn Paris or Peoria, Pekin or Pewaukee
it's a P, but I did not quite catch the
name.
Goods arrived from Lakeport at last.
Open them to-morrow.
Supper.
Broiled Mackinaw trout (4 S>s, gross 30,
butter to baste 5 35 cents.)
Broiled tenderloin steak (No. 40-7-
steaks, iS>. 25 cents.)
Beefsteak common (8 steaks, iB>. 16,
butter gravy 5-21 cents.)
Eggs (4 orders, 14 cents.)
Potatoes baked (5 cents.)
French rolls (35 and loaf bread, 19
cents.)
Rhubarb sauce do cents.)
Cake, frosted d^ E>s, 18 cents.)
Butter, (average count 15 cents.)
Milk and cream, (average count 28
cents \
Coffee and tea, do cents.)
Twenty-five -persons; Scents a plate.
570 B, oiled Mackinaw Trout.
If the fish is of small size, split it length-
wise in halves and remove the bone
entirely, by cutting along both sides of it.
Dry the halves on a clean kitchen towel,
dredge with pepper and salt, dip both
sides in flour, place them in the hingec
wire broiler and cook over clear coals.
When partly cooked, brush over with
melted butter and keep it moist until wel
done through. To serve, turn out of the
broiler on to a little board on the table
kept for the purpose and divide each side
in four by a sudden chop with a large
sharp knife. For a plain family supper
like this, no sauce is needed, but have tne
fish freshly cooked and hot. May also
be served like No. 58.
Note. It is not necessary to cock
Droiled fish entirely on the broiler, but,
when the place is wanted to broil the
Beefsteaks the fish may be finished in a
pan in the oven. Very large iishes are
sometimes broiled whole ostensibly,when
:hey are in reality baked except for suf-
ficient broiling at first to give them the
marks and appearance. A very nice w
broil can also be effected over the top of
the stove, by beginning a little earlier.
Breakfast.
July 8. Meats all cut and laid ready in
a pan are to be broiled as ordered. Where
there are so many kinds offered it is suf-
ficient to prepare two or three orders of
each.
Beefsteak (6, 12 ozs, net, and season-
nings, 1 6 cents.)
Liver U slices, 8 ozs, 7 cents.)
Bacon (4 slices, 6 ozs, net, 6 cents.)
Ham (4 slices, 8 ozs, net, 12 cents.)
Mutton chops (6 Ib, gross, 10 cents.)
Eggs (2 dozen, and outter to fry, 35
cents.)
Potatoes baked and fried (8 cents.)
Rolls and bread (15 cents )
Batter cakes (2 qts, 13 cents.)
Syrup (of iy 2 Ibs, sugar, 12 cents.)
Butter d Ib, 20 cents.)
Milk and cream (25 cents.)
Coffee and tea do cents.)
Total, $i 89; 25 persons; j% a plate,
Dinner.
Not having soup regularly as yet, for
no reason of expense but because it makes
more work waiting on table, washing
plates, and prolongms the meal.
Boiled trout with butter sauce (2 Ibs,
gross and sauce, 18 cents.)
Roast beef (2 ribs, 4 Ibs 50 cents.)
Boiled ham (knuckle with 2 Ibs, net,
30 cents.)
Com (2 cans, seasonings, 31 cents.)
Green peas (from garden, equal 2 cans,
30 cents.)
Potatoes (7 cents.)
Baltimore butter pie (No. 577 increased
3 large, deep, 40 cents.)
Raisins, nuts, cheese, pickles, condi-
ments (average cost i cent each person.
COOKING FOR PRO f IT.
all counted together, 25 cents.)
Bread, butter (16 cents.",
Milk, coffee, tea (30 cents, y.
Total, $2 77 ; 25 persons ; over n cents
a plate.
571 Boiled Trout.
When we have but a smalt amount of
fish Wvi boil it, because we find that it
goes further" that way than if baked or
broiled; whether the reason be that it
shrinks less or that there are fewer orders
for it. Boiled fish ought not to be con-
sidered inferior, for in no other way is
the peculiar flavor of a fine fish so well
preserved. It is always safe when the
preferences of the people to be served are
unknown, to boil a trout or salmon in
water that is well salted and without other
seasonings. At some other time you can
try the addition of an onion stuck with
four cloves, and half a cup of vinegar to
the water, and perhaps a bayleaf and
some parsley, besides the salt. Use a
bright pan if you add vinegar, or the fish
will be dark. As our summer boarders
all come to the table a t the same minute
and want to be served instantly, we pre-
pare the fish for dishing up by cutting it
in portions half way through before boil-
ing, being careful to sever the bone at
each cut, which is easily done with the
point of a large knife. Then the fish
must not boil too long, nor too fast ; have
the water boiling in a deep boiler, pan,
or something roomy enough, drop in the
fish and simmer not longer than half an
hour. Drain off most of the water. Serve
on small plates with the sauce at the side
of the piece of fish.
572 Taking Unw.rrantable Liberties
Whoever serves fish or meat to a num-
ber of guests at a public house of whose
tastes and preferences he can knpw noth-
ing, takes unwarrantable liberties with
their food if he covers it with a sauce be-
fore sending it in. The sauce should be
placed under or at the side of the cut.
The salmon or the trout- may be fine,
firm, flaky, pink-fleshed, good to look at,
and appetizing, but the sauce may be a
dull paste, perhaps tasting of butter of a
poor quality ; or, if of the very best quality
when first made it may have become thick
and stringy with waiting, or, it may be a
caper sauce, which the person does not
like, or eggs, or tomato, or anchovy which
many detest why should the fish or meat
be deluged with these peculiar flavors
whether the recipient wishes it or not ?
There is an answer it is because that it is
the custom of French cooks and so the
directions read. But it never was in-
tended for general application. One day
I happened to be at the Lookover-the-
Mountain House (by-the-Sea) when a
large number of prominent townspeople
were taking dinner there for some com-
plimentary purpose concerning the ex-
cellence of the^ table, and the cook served
the fish with wine sauce. The fish was
of the finest ; probably it was well cooked ;
I but whether it was the wrong wine or no
[ wine at ail, but a substitute, the sauce
1 was sweet; it could hardly have been
sweeter if it had been n^lasses ; it had
the Parisienne potatoes in it saturated and
dingy, and each portion of fish served
was buried out of sight under a large
spoonful of the mess. There are plenty
of reasons why sauces may be bad in spite
ot skill and good intentions, but they are
of small consequence in the houses where
they are but poured at the side and not
over the cut of meat or fish, because then
a free choice is left to either take or leave,
and the cook's sauce is placed upon its
own merits.
573 Butter Sauce Best.
2 cups clear strained broth or water.
l / pound butter or more.
2 heaping tablespoons flour.
Salt, if not enough in the butter.
Take half the butter and all the flour
and stir them together in a saucepan over
the fire. When well mingled and bub-
bling from the bottom add the D9iling
water or broth a littlj at a time, stirring
till all is in and the sauce has cooked
thick and smooth. Take it from the fire
and beat in the other half the butter a
portion at a time and do not let it boil
again. It looks glossy and smooth as soft
butter ; may need thinning down for some
purposes, as for parsley sauce, etc.
The above makes over a pint of sauce ;
the cost is whatever the price of the but-
ter used may bt.
: SAN fRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S j
574 Cheap Butter Sauce Substitute. I when we count up the sum -total at the
1 end of the book, 1
2 cups clear strained broth or water. 1
Flour and water thickening.
i ounce butter (guinea egg size:)
Salt.
Thicken the broth or water by stirring
in the mixed flour and water. Take it
from the fire and beat in the lump of but-
ter until it is melted. Do not boil after
the butter is in..
575 Family Roast Beef.
Each of beef weighs on an average
2 pounds hen it has been shortened and
trimmed ready for roasting. Our 2-rib
roast weighs 4 pounds and takes an hour
to cook well done. Roasted meat is at
its best when it is but just done, when
the gravy flows freely, as soon as it is cut.
I make it an invariable practice to hold
back the roasting until the last ; a cut that
will take 2 hours goes in just 2 hours be-
fore dinner time, and if tnere is no gravy
on hand and the pan is required to make
some, change the meat into another pan
15 minutes before dishing up which gives
time for the gravy making.
Some comical wordy encounters take
place at times through the difference of
menus of quantity between hotel and
private house people. "Four pounds of
beef for twenty-five people's dinner!"
says one, "why, that would not be more
than enough for my family at home."
"Two pounds of meat to make an entree
for a dinner for fifty !" exclaims another
"and even when it is chicken meat nicely
fixed up, still only two pounds ! Nonsense,
you can't tell me, I know that one hungry
man could eat up the whole business." '
At the same time Mrs. Tingee, who
knows far more about saving than ever I
can tell her would think we were giving
ruinously large rations if she could see.
It is a curious study, this bill of fare
plan with its small amount of each of
many viands, I have not time to at-
tempt to explain how it is that the one
hungry man does not eat up the whole
business, nor a dozen hungry men either.
These little bills of fare are truthful
records of stubborn facts and they may
explain it all. If not, we shall find out
how well fed all these people have been
576 Brown Pan Gravy or Espagnole.
The brown sauce which in systematic
cooking we find so useful, so indispensa-
ble, even, is not much unlike the frying-
pan gravy that Mary Jane makes very
nicely, sometimes, by taking out the fried
pork, sausage or chicken and pouring in
water or milk and thickening it when it
boils, but we are strictly careful to get rid
of all the grease. We think over the matter
an hour or two ahead of the time for
making gravy to see what can be put in the
pan to make it richer and to improve the
color, and we make it in the roast meat
pans, and generally in the oven. The
material for making the gravy is the
essence of beef or other meat that escapes
from the meat in roasting, as already
mentioned at Nos. 170, 185, 171, i44and
other places, and settles at the bottom of
the pan, and of course the more meat the
better the gravy \yill" be. It is well
enough, but not strictly necessary to put
a piece of turnip, carrot and celery in the
pan along with any rough pieces of meat
besides the roast, and there must be some
salt put in at the beginning. All the time
the meat is roasting there is more or less
water in the pan and the grease and gravy
are mixed together, but when the meat is
taken out the pan dries down, the essence
sticks on the bottom and turns brown
like the outside of roast meat and the hot
grease above it is as clear as water and
can be poured off into ajar to be used for
frying and other purposes. That being
done put into the pan a quart, more or
less of water or soup stock, let it boil up
and dissolve the brown glaze, then ada
flour thickening a little at a time, making
it as thick as cream, let boil and strain it
into a saucepan. It is t hen ready for use ;
but if allowed to simmer at the side of
the range, it will throw up scum and
grease which must be skimmed off, and
the sauce becomes bright and is much
improved.
577 Baltimore Butter Pie or Custard
Without Eggs.
Having no eggs left after breakfast,
COOKING FOR PRO f IT.
made a kind of pie that serves in place
of pudding and needs none.
At the Kissimmeequick Hotel a noted
resort on the-Kissimmee River they have
one of those little customs with which no
fault can be found of keeping a standing
favorite dish always on the Dill of fare,
and there it is custard pie, regularly,
there being another kind of pie and the
pudding and cream to make the changes
on. But there the supplies are by no
means regular in arriving, and when they
have no eggs they make custard this way :
4 cups milk a quart.
i small cup butter 6 ounces.
iY 2 cups sugar 12 ounces
i level cup flour 4 ounces.
Boil the milk with the bntter in it and
a spoonful of the sugar to prevent burn-
ing. Mix the Hour and sugar together
dry, stir them into the boiling milk quickly
with a wire egg beater, like making mush
and take from the fire as soon as it begins
to thicken. It will finish cooking in the
pies. Line 2 deep custard pie plates with
crust rolled very thin and pour the
whcle 3 pints 01 mixture into them if
you have people enough to eat so much,
if not. of course the receipt can be
divided. The butter is the only flavoring
needed in this mixture and must be good.
Bake in a slack oven until the filling be-
gins to rise in the middle. It will rise
and flow over the edge if baked too long.
Cost of mixture here 17 cents and crusts
of rich paste 10 cents for two. Cut each
pie in eight they are deep enough for
that. Can be made richer yet with cream.
Supper.
578 Molasses Fruit Cake, Cheap.
Beefsteak do orders, 20 ozs, 25 cents.)
Mutton chops (9 ord^rs,24 ozs,2o ce nts.)
Cold boiled ham (8 ozs, 10 cents.)
Potatoes (5 cents.)
French rolls (35, 14 cents.)
Batter cakes ( 2 qts, 14 cents.)
Syrup [12 cents.]
Blueberries [2 cans,and sugary cents.]
Molasses fruit cake [No. 578, i^ Ibs,
15 cents.]
Butter 15, milk, cream 25 coffee, tea 8.
Total, $i 96; 25 persons, nearly 8 cents
a plate.
3 cups raisins a pound.
4 cups currants a pound.
i small cup sugar 6 ounces.
Same of butter.
1 large cup molasses 12 ounces.
2 eggs.
i cup sour milk and teaspoon soda or
else use sweet milk and baking powder.
6 cups flour 154 pounds.
Spices if desired.
Prepare the raisins and currants and
dust them with flour. Mix all the rest
together and beat well, then aad the fruit.
May be baked in a shallow pan to cut out
squares warm or in deep mold. Makes
about 5 pounds, costing 45 cents, or 9
cents a pound.
Divide before baking and you can have
I one cake and the other half steamed
to-morrow for pudding.
There is music on the water to-night
serenading party in boats fifteen young
ladies have come to the Trulirural House
to board for a week or two glee club or
seminary class or something of the sort
from Basswood City, and they are down
at our boat landing singing. Proprietor
of the Trulirural has instigated them to
that knows that our side cannot muster
even a parlor quartette. If Mr. Farewell
would put his hired girls in a boat and
tell them to sing their loudest that party
would soon be put to fleht. I suppose that
would not do it would make what they
call a scandal, and, instead, the manager,
the housekeeper and 'bus driver are hang-
ing the trees lull of Chinese lanterns, and
the beat boy with the big hat, is getting
out some fire-works.
"For it makes the heart so gay,
To hear the sweet birds singing
On their summer hol-i-day."
It does put new life into a fellow who
is weary of his ill success when duck
hunting to see the game come circling
around at last.
579 Mrs. Tmgee's Costard Pie.
The glory of the custard pie, is in the
depth or thickness of it. The distance
should be great between the glossy surface
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
wavering between orange, yelbw and
brown and the substratum,waler-like in its
thinness, of paste. The custard pie, then
demands a pie pan of an uncommon
depth and spaciousness, with a capacity
not frittered away in broad and spreading
edges but, rather, with boundaries of an
upright character and quite unobtrusive,
the necessary wall of crust being of no
great moment, so that it be respectably
short as all about a custard pie that is
worthy of consideration relates only to
the filling. Taking this view of the cus-
tard pie, which I believe is the popular
one. I have been troubled about pie
pans. We have none at this place but
such as are shallow, almest flat, nothing
that is a cross between pie plate and pud-
ding pan, which is what the exigency de-
mands. Thinking to get out of the dilem-
ma easily enough I went over to the
country store and explained the matter to
the merchant, who would not even stop
for me to finish before he went off nod-
ding and smiling, saying he had just what
I wanted, some pie plates that were deep
and some that were deeper. There never
was a man more mistaken in the use of
words. All he really had was some that
were shallow and some others that were
shallower, and I spent some time trying to
prove it to him, but as he was German it
seemed without much success. Then I
had to come home, take a hammer and
beat the broad, flat, edges of the pie
plates we have into a comparative per-
pendicularity. They look bad but, "what
can't be cured must be endured," as the
sailor said when he bade his sweetheart,
good bye "so farewell, Susan," etc.
The very last time I had a talk with
Mrs. Tingee we are opposite neighbor's
and it is common for me to step in of a
morning just as I was as i thought weli
out of the nouse she stopped me on the
steps with the usual, "Oh, tell me some-
thing, now, what can I have for dinner?',
"Why; Mrs. Tingee,why don't you give
your boarders some roast iamb? There
is nothing better ; and as for the price it
is really no dearer now than mutton or
the other meat you buy." But, wouldn't
they eat " Whatever she may have in
tended to say, she did not finish the
sentence but stopped for a moment anc
then resumed :
"No; it is not much trouble about the
meat part, but it is the something to come
after. I ought to make them something.
Day before yesterday I gave them pud-
ding; yesterday we had nothing and it
seems as though I ought to have some-
thing to-day, and it ought to be pie and,
oh, I do dread to make pie, so!
I could plainly see a shiver ran all
through the poor lady as she said this;
probably she was thinking of lard and the
outlay involved in its use.
"Why not make a custard pie," I said,
it does not require much pie paste."
"I should want some eggs, shouldn't
I?" she asked dubiously. ~
"Yes; perhaps four.
"Couldn't you make it with two, if it
was you?"
"How can I tell when I don't know
how much or how many you are going to
make." '
She gazed away off into space for a
while. There was a mighty argument for
and against pie going on in her mind.
Then coming close and looking around
to see that there were no listeners, she said
in a low tone :
"I would not say it to anybody but
you, but I have one boarder, a young
man, that actually sometimes eats four
pieces of pie?"
So that's what made this poor woman
shiver. Not the bare reflection upon the
expensiveness of lard, but the dread of
this young man's calling heartlessly one,
two, three, four times for pie ; having her
in his power; knowing she dared not say
no, or, "it is all out," while the other
boarders were, yet to be served and would
presently be, right before his eyes. I
think if he had been in my place and real-
ized what depths of dpubt and fear this
likelihood of his wanting four pieces had
opened before her he would have sworn
oil from ever going beyond the second
order. However, there are extenuating
circumstances to be mentioned in his
favor.
We fellows who make our custard pies
in all that swaggering, arrogant feeling of,
boundless wealth that is born of having
a plethroic store-room and whole barrels
full of "stuff' to use out of would
feel more like pitying than blaming the
young man who would essay to move
around after a four-piece w-zitf-ment of
I our pies, however good and wholesome,
I for, as we fill each one to the brim wicn
i a i.int of milk, four eggs and four ounces
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
of sugar and the crust weighs at least
four ounces more it is within an ounce or
two of being two pounds weight for each
custard pie, and though we cut it in the
smallest pieces, that is in eight, the young
man who would eat four would almost
surely feel such discomfort that a pound
of pie at once would bring its own punish-
ment ; and I understood Mrs. Tingee to
say that she cut her's in only six so much
the worse for the young man. However,
in this case I tried to sympathise with
Mrs. Tingee and offered her the poor
comfort of saying that everything costs
and it might as well be custard pie as
something else ; with which she cautiously
agreed.
"But won't it take milk? she asked."
"Yes, of course."
"How much, do you think?,
Now I verily believe she was thinking j
spoonfuls while I was thinking quarts,
but not wishing to alarm her, I said :
"Oh, about a pint."
"But that's for tea," she replied.
"Maam?"
"That's for tea."
"What, the pie?"
"No, the milk."
"Oh! yes, I understand," and did be-
gin to apprehend her meaning. That is
just like a woman. I was thinking of a
pint of milk any pint of milk from
anywhere in the world so that we, got it;
she was thinking of the pint of milk, the
one pint of milk m her cupboard set there
to be used for the tea at the evening meal
and, to her the only pint of milk in the
universe.
"Well, then," I said, "you need not
use that ; you can make just as good a
custard with water."
"Is that so?" she said, brightening up,
"have you ever made custard with
water?" I nodded an affirmative.
"What ever made you think of trying
that?"
"It tried itself, as it were. You see
when at the Cloverdale Hotel and cot-
tages in the early part of the season we
had more milk than we could possibly
use we made custard pie with cream, and
of course it was good. As the season
advanced and the crowd increased we
got down to skimmed milk and to milk
mixed with water, and still the custard
pies were apparently as good as before;
so when it happened, as it will in every
place sometimes, that there was no milk
at all it was but an easy step further to
make the custard pies with water alone
and not care whether the cows come
home or not."
"And they were every bit as good?"
"Yes, ma am apparently."
"Did you ever hear of anybody using
flour or starch or anything to save eggs?"
"Oh, yes; there is a rule for that. If
you have need of four eggs you can mix
up some flour and water to the consist-
ency of thick cream and each cooking-
spoonful of that is equal to one egg, for
thickening purposes, but it will be white."
"But ifi use three of that and one egg
it will look yellow. Well, I must get to
doing something, for the morning is half
gone."
So then I was released, but only for
a short time, for after dinner Mrs. Tingee
made me cross the street again.
"I want you to come and try my cus-
tard pie," said she.
"No> thank you I have had dinner."
"But you must tell me whether I did
right or wrong and what you think of it."
But the pie she set bef9re me was none
of mine. I disclaim having anything to
do with it. My custard pies are big and
fat three big cups of custard in each one,
and there is room to dive down deep in
them; but this! Oh, Mrs. Tingee how
could you! It is only the ghost,, the
shadow, the skeleton ot a custard pie. I
hope she will not ever ask me any nrore
questions. Sometimes I feel like pitying
her, but am always sure to be taken aback
by some such exhibition of the preternat-
ural sharpness she has acquired in the
long battle ot three-and-a-half-a-week.
In this case to borrow a simile from
minister Schenck's book on poker she
has seen the hand I held and gone me
one, ten, aye a hundred better. One of us
two has been "sold" and it wasn't Mrs.
T. Her custard pie is primped and
crimped around the edges, but there is
nothing of it. It consists of a sheet of
bottom crust about as thin as paper, with
a yellow laver of custard about as deep as
a sheet of Slotting paper upon it. Why,
three cups of custard would cover "wilds
immeasurably spread" of paste of such a
depth as that. With a quart of such cus-
tard made with no milk but one egg she
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
could fill pies enough to stock up a
bakery. I am afraid of her. As for the
young man who, sometimes eats four
pieces I may envy him his vigorous ap-
petite, but I utterly despise him for his
want of taste. Let him go without a
lecture. Mrs. Tingee is able to cope with
him alone. In some way or other he gets
his full punishment, never doubt it.
Breakfast.
Ham and eggs (7 orders, 12 ozs, ham,
net, is;e 'gsi8, 33 cents.)
Beetsteak (8 orders, i Ib, net, 20 cents.)
Mutton chops (8 orders, 12 cents.)
Stewed kidneys (y 2 Ib, 6 cents.)
Potatoes baked and fried, (5 cents.)
Wheat mufrlns (No. 102 doubled, 14
cents.)
Batter cakes (2 qts, 12 cents.)
Milk and cream (aveiage count, 25
cents.)
Butter 15, syrup and sugar 16, tea and
coffee 6.
Total, $i 64; 25 persons; .about 6]/ 2
cents a plate.
580 Ham and Eggs, Hotel Style.
The large dish of ham and eggs served
at some restaurants as described at No.
76 as costing 25 cents is not the best dish
of the kind that can be served. It is
quantity in that case rather than quality,
Take the best pieces of ham, the right-
hand cut shown at No. 552, shave off the
outside, cut slices very thin the full size
of the piece they scarcely ever weigh so
much as two ounces and broil over
a brisk fire. Lay on a good sized platter
up towards one end and two fried eggs
partly upon th * ham and partly on the
dish. If at 1 8 cents a dozen two eggs
cost thrse cents, and two ounces uf choice
cut of nam worth 24 cents a pound net
costs 3 cents each dish served counts six
cents for material.
581 Stewed Kidneys, or Saute of
Kidneys.
Kidneys cooked this way are not really
stewed, but we have to call them so,
because of the dazed looks we meet if we
used any harder words.
Slice the three or four lundneys that
have been taken from the different meats
and steep a short time in cold water. Put
them in a frying pan with a little butter,
dredge with pepper and salt, and simmer
slowly over the fire shaking the pan oc^-
casionally. There will be a rich gravy in
the pan m a few minutes in which the
kidneys become well cooked and remain
tender, but if not watched the gravy
presently coagulates and the kidneys are
hard and tasteless. The cooking should
take place only a short time before the
meal begins. Add a tablespoonful of
walnut catsup to the gravy before serving.
582 Muffins in Haste.
There are no better muffins than the kind
made according tp the directions at Nos.
102 and 103, but in summer weather and
with compressed yeast they can be made
of fine quality in a still shorter time with
only one rising. Breakfast beginning at
half past seven, I mix up the muffins at
six. Take a piece of the light dough that
was set over-night for rolls or bread, put
it in a pan, add four yolks, six table-
spoons melted butter, same of warm milk
and one tablespoon sugar and pinch of
salt. Hold the pan over the stove to
warm the ingredients while you thoroughly
mix and beat them together. Drop into
greased gem pans, set in a warm place to
rise about an hour, then bake.
Dinner.
Soup puree of tomatoes with duchess
crusts (5 qts, 25 cents.)
Boiled ham (knuckle, 2 Ibs, 20 cents.)
Roast beef ( i rib and cap or shoulder
cut, 4 Ibs, gross, 50 cents.)
Mutton pie (i Ib, meat 8, i Ib, paste 7,
15 cents.)
Macaroni and cheese (No, 584, 12
orders, 12 cents.)
Mashed potatoes, (7 cents.)
String beans (2 eans,seasoned,28 cents.)
Steamed fruit pudding (2 Ibs, 20 and
sauce 5, 25 cents.)
Rhubarb pie (2 large j rolled thin, i^
cento.)
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
Cheese, raisins, pickles, crackers, con
diments (average count, 25 cents.)
Butter (average, 15 cents.)
Milk, cream, coffee, tea (36 cents.)
Total, $2 71; 25 persons; nearly li
cents a plate.
583 Puree of Tomatoes Soup;
A <puree is a paste or pulp like mashed
potatoes and a puree soup is one thickened
by having a puree of vegetables or per-
haps of fowl or game stirred into it; a
plain tomato soup may be thin and clear
enough to show up green peas, rice or
other additions, but a puree soup is thick,
more like tomato sauce. These explan-
ations will do to refer to again.
The butcher over at "the Glen" would
sell us a beef shank for 12 or 15 cents,
but as that is a distance of four miles we
must either say, "can't make soup," or
do this way. Take the bone of the short
loin of beef, (all the meat for steaks hav-
ing been cut off raw,) the piece of shoulder
off the rib roast, bone out of the veal,
shanks of mutton, small piece of ham, all
raw. Wash in cold water, and reject
every piece that has become stale and
dark through exposure to the air. Put
them into a large pot with two gallons of
cold water and set on to boil between 8
and 9 o'clock in the morning. Skim
when it begins to boil. These bones we
will count worth 10 cents.
The flavors which "go well" with
tomatoes are onions, ham, garlic, cloves,
green and red peppers, allspice, clams,
lamb, walnut catsup, anchovies. Not to
be used all at once.
Into the S9up pot you had better put
one onion, six cloves, piece of turnip and
carrot and a three pound can of tomatoes
(15 cents) or fresh tomatoes to that amount
and let boil with the meat and bones until
near dinner time, them add flour-and-
water thickening a spoonful at a time un-
til it seems thick enough, and season with
salt and cayenne. The soup is then
ready to be strained and freed from
grease. Take a clean soup pot and set
a strainer over it. A colander-shap>ed
strainer at least as fine as a flour seive
should be used, or one of perforated tin,
finer still. You can hurry the soup and
all such mixtures through by rapidly
striking the strainer edge with an iron
spoon better than stirring arouno!.
There will be five or six quarts. Set it
on the back part of the stove and as it
slowly boils up at one side all the grease
that is in it will collect on the surfoce at
the other and must be skimmed off.
Serve with a few duchess crusts, not put
in the soup previously, but droypecf in the*
plates as they are taken in.,
584 Duchess and Comfe Crusts, -or
Croutons.
These are the names given 6y the
French to what English cooks call "sip-
pets of fried bread." Cut bread in thin
slices without crust, then in dice no larger
than navy beans. If you diop them for
! a few seconds, into hot clarified butter,
! oil or lard and fry them light brown they
are duchess crusts, if, instead, you put
them in a pan in the oven and bake them
brown like toast they are conde crusts.
They are to eat in soup instead of crackers.
585 Macaroni and Cheese Ordinary.
This makes 12 orders at a cost of one
cent each.
y^ pound macaroni*
2 ounces cheese a smalT cup grated or
minced.
2 ounces butter size of an egg;,
i cup milk.
i spoonful flour thickening*
i egg, salt, cracker crumbs*
Set on a saucepan of water and wherrft
boils put in the macaroni broken in pieces.
Cook 20 minutes then drain in a colander.
Get a r>anpr deep dish that holds about
three pints, butter it, put in the maca-
roni, the cheese minced fine and butter
in small bits, mix them with a fork.
Break the egg in a b9wl, add a cook-
ing-spoonful of flour thickening and beat
while pouring in the milk, add it to the
macaroni, dredge cracker meal over the
surface and bake until the liquid is set
and surface brown.
There should be a little mixed flour and
thickening, about as thick as cream al-
ways at hand when cooking is going on.
The use of a spoonful saves an egg in this
dish and is better, but do not use enough
to make the macaroni solid and dry. For
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
a high-flavored dish of macaroni, see No.
154, which is macaroni \r*fr&&4ue, like
Welsh rarebit.
58S-CheapF Steamed* FroTf Pudding.
Take the molasses fruit? caEe* mixture,
No. 578. Put it in a cake mould and steam
from one to two hours. The color both of
pudding and cake will be from yellow to
black according to the kind of syrup or
molasses used* Servejwith* sauce i Nos.
iSuppefg
Oatmeal mush, (3 cents??
Beefsteak (8 orders, i Ib, i
Cold beef and ham (from dinner.)
Potatpes, (enough lett from dinner.)
Biscuics (2 doz, 15 cents.)
Fresh wild raspberreis (2 qts, 30 cents.)
Cookies (3 doz, 12 cents.)
Batter cakes and syrup, (14 cents,)
Butter 15, milk and cream^o, coffee,
tea 10.
Total, $1.49; 25 persoiis> (*> cents* a
plate*
587 Cookies Goorf CommofT.
af cups sugar a pouncfk
i cup butter y z pounos
5 or 6 eggs.
i cup milk or water ^ puffe
4 teaspoons baking powder.
8 cups flour 2 pounds.
Soften the butter and stir if afidl the
sugar together, add eggs, milk, beat well.
Mix the powder in the flour; mix all to a
soft dough. Press it together on the
table, roll out thin, sift granulated sugar
all over and cut out the cakes. The softer
the dough can be worked the better the
cakes will be. Makes 9 dozen, cost 36
cents, 4 or 5 cents a dozen; ot twice as
many if rolled extremely thin*
'Breakfast
wheat, 4 cents.)
Beefsteak (7 orders, i Ib, -20 cents.)
Ham and oreakfast bacon (6 orders,
15 cents.)
Buttered egss (No. 558, 18 eggs and
butter, 25 cents.)
German fried potatoes (No. 511, 20
potatoes, 6 cents.)
Corn muffins (No. 286, with 2 cups
meal, etc., 20, 12 cents.)
Graham batter cakes (with sour milk,
like No. 535, 2 qts, 15 cents.)
Syrup 12, butter 15, milk and cream 30,
coffee, tea, sugar, bread 20.
Total, $i 74; 25 persons; 7 cents a
Plate.
Boarders and children are getting filled
up. No longer ravenous anofcovetous of
large portions. Just beginning to have
misgivings as to the gentility of large cuts,
heaped up dishes and six batter cakes on
a plate; willing to have them made small
and only three at a time. 'Tis ever thus
after a week or two. Out of eggs again,
as usual ; must make up a dinner without.
The big hotels at the depot catch up all
that comes to that little country store.
Our manager as busy is as a bee from morn
till dewey eve playing croquet and has no
time to go further to buy. But we are
out of meat, too, and somebody must go
to the "Glen," which is a few sizes larger
.than the depot village, and buy some.
588 Trouble with the Oatmeal.
racked Vheat mush (2
The majority of those who board where
the oatmeal or cracked wheat mush is
made regularly and made good soon find
they cannot make a satisfactory meal
without it. < It is an article of diet es-
pecially desirable for children. I believe,
moreover, that more hard work both of
hands and head can be done, particularly
in hot weather, upon a diet of oatmeal
and cream than upon any mixed diet
of meat and vegetables. There are two
ways of cooking it and the best way is
difficult and more or less wasteful. There
is no waste in cooking the oatmeal in a
farina kettle as the double kettles are
called but there is a loss of something
still. We cooks know by various signs
when a dish strikes the peoples' fancy,
and know that the oatmeal and cracked
wheat that is eaten to the last grain and
45
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
for which the disappointed "help" after
the meal want to scrape the kettle clean
for a dish for themselves is not that which
is cooked in a farina kettle or steam chest,
but that cooked in a thick-bottomed
saucepan slowly at the back of the range,
where a crust bakes under and around it
and the mush gets a baked flavor. I think
the best way to cook oatmeal mush would
be the same as Boston baked beans, in a
jar in the oven, but have never been suf-
ficiently interested to try it. A cup of
oatmeal costing two or three cents re-
quires four cups of water to cook it, and
makes a quart or two pounds of good
food. If we make up our minds that it
is cheap enough to throw away the crust
that forms in the kettle every time k is
made, the best quality tan be secured that
way, provided there is a slow place on
the range for it to simmer for a couple of
hours. Such, however, is not the case
here. The thin stove nred up with light
wood causes the mush to burn at the
bottom every other day and the fine baked
flavor and the fine theories go up in smoke
together. This will never do. So having
no farina kettle, and there being none to
buy at either village, my "sec'* and I have
hit upon the plan of taking a five-pint
milk pail with a tight lid and setting it
with the oatmeal, previonsly steeped in
the requisite quantity of water, inside a
deep iron pot containing water and so
boil and steam k, covered with a lid.
These tea-kettle cooks steam many a loaf
of brown bread very well by the same
plan, and could steam a variety of good
puddings in the same contrivance if they
only knew how to make tnem.
589 Buttered Eggs.
Break some eggs about 6 or 8 at a
time into a bright saucepan and add for
each egg a tablespoonful of melted butter
and very little salt. Have a pan of water
boiling on the stove; set the saucepan in
it and stir and beat the eggs until they are
cooked as thick as scram bled eggs. Serve
sometimes plain in dishes same as scram-
bled eggs, sometimes on fancy toast.
590 Graham Cakes with Spur Milk-
Cheapest.
It is necessary to mix white flour with
the Graham, about half of each. Other-
wise they are made the same as the other
kind, No. 535.
Dinner.
Vegetable soup (No. 140 ; cost nominal,
say 1 6 cents.)
Roast loin mutton (3 Ibs, 30 cents.)
Potted beefsteak (village bought, rough
30 cents.)
Macaroni with creamed cheese (12 or-
ders, 12 cents.)
Green peas (from garden, worth 20
cents.)
Lima beans (dried, ^ Ib, and season-
ing, 5 cents.)
Tomatoes (i can, 15 cents.)
Potatoes (plain steamed, 3 cents.)
Spjce Pie \No. 593; 3 pies, 19 cents.)
Old-fashioned nee pudding (2 qts, 13
cents ; sauce, 316 cents.)
Condiments, crackers, nuts, raisins,
cheese (average, 25 cents.)
Butter 15^ milk anv* cream 30, coffee,
tea, bread 10.
Total, $2 46; 25 persons; nearly 10
cents a plate.
591 Potted Beefsteak.
Beef in pieces baked in a covered jar,
like Boston beans. Put two or three
pounds of rough cut beef into a gallon
far, with a few cloves, a slice of bacon, a
bayleaf, salt, pepper, little vinegar and
two cups water. Cover the jar with a lid,
plate, or greased paper. Bake 3 hours
in a slow oven. Then take out the meat,
strain the gravy and skim off the fat. Add
a tablespoonful of walnut catsup to the
gravy and serve it with shapely cuts or
strips of the beef.
592 Macaroni with Creamed Cheese.
No eggs required, costs about 12 cents
for 12 dishes.
% pound macaroni.
4 ounces cheese a heaping imp
minced.
2 ounces butter size of an egg.
2 cups milk. m
Cheese that is good enough for use is
generally too soft to grate, but must be
SAN JFRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
chopped fine.
Break the macaroni and throw it into
boiling water, cook 20 minutes.
Warm the butter and cheese in another
saucepan and rub them together with a
spoon, add milk a little at a time as the
cheese becomes hot, and a pinch of
cayenne. The mixture must not reach
the boiling point. Cheese and butter will
combine when warm and the milk grad-
ually diluting them makes a thick, creamy
sauce, but they separate if boiled. Drain
macaroni and pour the creamed cheese
over it. Serve it in flat dishes heaped as
much as possible.
593 Spice Pie, Vinegar Pie or Har-
vest Pie,
No eggs required nor milk.
2 cups water a pint.
1 cup vinegar.
2 cups brown sugar a pound,
i ounce butter small egg size,
i cup flour 4 ounces.
i teaspoon ground cinnamon.
Boil the water, vinegar and butter to-
gether. Mix sugar, flour and cinnamon
together dry and dredge them into the
boiling liquid, beating at the same time.
Take it on the fire as soon as partly thick-
ened, before it boils. It will finish cook-
ing in the pies. Bake with both a bottom
and top crust rolled very thin. It is nec-
essary to be particular to get just the right
proportion of flour.
59* Baked Rice Pudding witnout
Eggs.
Neither eggs nor butter required. It is
called by a dozen different names, such
as Astor House, poor man's pudding and
others and is made daily in many fine
hotels as an alternative from the richer
kinds, which some cannot eat.
i cup rice ^2 pound.
i cup sugar y 2 pound.
6 cups milk.
Cinnamon or nutmeg.
A pinch of salt.
Wash the rice in three or four waters,
put it into a tin pudding pan, and the
sugar, milk, salt and piece of stick cinna-
mon with it, all cold, and bake in a slow
oven for three or four hours. It may be
best to use only five cups of milk at first;
and add the other if the time allows the
pudding to bake down dry enough. Cover
with a sheet of greased paper to keep the
top from scorching. Serve with sail DC.
Supper.
Oatmeal (3 cents.)
Beefsteak (6 orders, 12 oz, qual i Ib,
gross, 15 cents.)
Cold mutton (8 orders, 10 oz, net;
charged dinner.)
Potatoes (2 ways, 3 cents.)
Graham rolls (No. 596; 30 rolls, 12
cents.)
Raspberry shortcake with cream, (No.
595 ; 2 dinner plate size ; paste 27 ; berries
and sugar 30; 24 cuts 57 cents.)
Cream 40, milk 18. coffee, tea, sugar 14,
butter 15.
Total, $i 77 ; 25 persons^ over 7 centsa
plate.
595 Raspberry Shortcake.
Boys made a bargain with me that I
should make raspberry shortcake for the
crowd if they would go and pick the ber-
ries. Imposed the condition that they
should bring a gallon. Said they would
if they could, but it was a weejc too early
yet for berries to be plenty. They came
home at four o'clock in disorder. Had
been in old Barnacle's woods and the old
chap and his hired man came up with
switches and wanted to take the berries
away from them. Boys called up their
big dog to defend them and ran home* I
am under solemn promise "not to tell
pa." Sorry, for they will be afraid to go
to Barnacle's to buy eggs, now. They
brought nearly two quarts red raspberries
(25 cents.) After looking them over I
shook a large cup powdered sugar (5
cents) into them. For the short paste :
8 level cups flour 2 pounds.
2 cups butter i pound.
Rub the butter into the flour, after first
slicing it thin. When well mingled, wet
with two small cups water. Knead the
paste smooth, roll out and bake on two
jelly cake pans or large pie pans if the
others are not at hand. Split the short-
cakes when done and spread with berries,
both inside and on top. Cut in 8. Cost
COOKING FOR PROMT.
2^ cents a cut. Serve cream in in-
dividual creamers.
596 Graham Pocket Book Rolls.
Graham rolls are a novelty in most
places and very nice if made like French
rolls, that is, folded over with a touch of
butter between, so that they pull open
when baked. It requires more practice,
however, to make them of good shape, as
Graham dough rises faster than white
and the shapes run out Hat if kept too
warm. v Of course the more difficult it is
to make 'such an article the more merit
and the more of a specialty it is for the
one who can. Some white flour must
be mixed with the Graham. The addi-
tion of the white of an egg to the liquor
the dou^h is mixed with, is an improve-
ment Section No. 261. Use com-
pressed yeast. Make half in split rolls,
the rest a loaf of Graham bread.
Breakfast.
July n.
Oatmeal (3 cents.)
Salmon trout, breaded and fried (13
orders, 4^ Ibs, gross, 36; 2 eggs to bread
2 ; cracker meal 2 ; lard to fry equal to y 2
ib, loss, 6 47 cents.)
Beefsteak 18 orders, i lb,net, 20 cents.)
Breakfast bacon (4 orders, y 2 lb,6 cents.)
Potatoes German fried (6 cents.)
Corn bread (No. 599; n cents.)
Biscuits (24, 15 cents.)
Batter cakes [cheapest, iqt, 7 cents.]
Syrup 10, butter 15, milk, cream 22,
coffee, tea 7.
Total, $i 69; 25 persons; nearly 7
cents a plate.
597 Salmon Trout Fried.
Split the fish down both sides of the
backbone and take it out, cut the two
sides in two-ounce pieces; salt and pep-
per, dip in egg and then in cracker meal
and fry by immersion in hot lard.
or gingerbread work upon them, but the
meaning is not half so literally intended
as a remark I heard when old Mr. Stick-
tite was building the fine view four-story
Sticktite House at Jknsonvale Junction.
It was sa id he built that house with money
saved by drying the broken pieces of bread
and crushing them to use instead of
cracker meal to bread-crumb fried oysters
and fish and other things. No doubt but
that particular was but one tangible point
seized upon to represent a life full of small
saying ways, by which wealth was ac-
quired in the long run. But I don't see
where the harm was in that. Mr. Stick
tite had the depot eating h9use and he
had a large oyster trade besides and he
was not the man to give grounds for the
cutting sarcasms which are flung at rail-
| road eating-house sandwiches, bread and
rolls. Wfcen they became dry really,
dry and hard he, instead or palming
them off upon helpless travelers took them
off his counters and tables and even out of
his showcases, had the dark crust shaved
off and spread them on trays in a warm
plac cover the oven to become dry enough
to crush ; then, to keep the boys and girls
out of mishchief between train times, he
made them roll and sift the dried bread
so that it looked like corn meal or Cracker
meal. And some of them could easily
save their wages that way. It does not
take long to use up a barrel of cracker
meal where there is a considerable trade
in fried oysters or in a hotel where veal
cutlets and fried mush are breaded every
day. As our price list of groceries shows
cracker meal costs exactly the same price
as new crackers, or seven dollars a hun-
dred, so a hundred pounds of crushed
dried bread is worth just that amount.
But is it as good? is the question.
Yes, if selected and freed from crust
before crushing.
599 Fine Corn Bread.
598 Building a House
Crusts.
with Bread
We have all heard of gingerbread houses
Happily for us all this little company
of people contains no distressful hypo-
chondriacs nor people with special aver-
sions. Two harmless hot-water drinking
lunatics, that's all. But some of them
have intimated that it is essential to their
happiness to have com bread for break-
fast constantly, and baked potatoes ; or-
ders which make those two oishes fixtures
SAN PRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
on the bill of fare from this time forth.
For fine corn bread take :
2 heaping cups corn meal.
1 or 2 ounces butter or lar.U size of -an
egg.
2 eggs, salt.
2 teaspoons baking powder.
Milk or water to mix.
Make a hollow in the meal and put in
the butter and pour in a little boiling
water from the teakettle to scald part of
the meal. Thin it down with cold milk,
add the eggs and salt and lastly the
powder. Beat it well with spoon or egg
whip. Have the baking pan hot and not
greased, If it hisses when the corn batter
is poured in the bread never sticks. Per-
fect success with corn bread of this fine
sort depends on having the batter th3
proper consistency. It should be like
thick batter-cake mixture when poured in
the baking pan. If just right it will rise
rounded and smooth and cuts like cake.
For corn bread without eggs, see No. 626.
Third expressed lot of of meat arrived.
Have got prices down to :
Mutton chaiged @ 10 cents.
Lamb, @ 10.
Beef round boneless forsteak, 13.
Beef rib roast, @ 12^.
Liver, @ 12^.
Sweetbreads, small lot presented.
Dinner.
Cream of rice soup (No. 600^4 qts, 15
cents.)
Trout baked, an gratin (No. 601 ; 3 Ibs,
36 cents.)
Roast beef (2 ribs, 4 Ibs, 50 cents.)
Roast mutton (2 Ibs, 20 cents.)
Blanquetteoflamb (No. 602; 12 orders
14 cents.)
Green peas do cents.)
Lima beans (charged yesterday's din
ner.)
Mashed potatoes (5 cents.)
Raspberry meringne (No. 604; 24 -or
ders, 36 cents.)
Vanilla ice cream (2 qts, 26 cents.)
Raisins, nuts, cheese, condiments
crackers (average, 25 cents.)
Milk, cream 30, coffee, tea 6, butter
bread 10.
Total, $2 77; 25 persons; n cents a
plate.
600 Cream of Rice Soup.
Put into 5 quarts of water some soup
)ones and the neck and shanks obtained
rom the newly arrived side of lamb, 3 or
r small green onions, a pinch of thyme
nd savory ; boiled an hour and took out
he pieces of lamb to make the blan-
quette. An hour later poured the stock
rom the bones through a fine strainer
into a clean soup pot, and skimmed off
;he fat.
Boiled half a cup of rice in a small
saucepan. Made a quart of milk hot
and mashed the rice with milk added a
ittle at a time; put it into the soup stock,
also a half blade of mace, salt, cayenne,
a small carrott from seed bed finely
minced. Let simmer and skimmed again.
Lastly added a spoonful of thickening,
lalf cup of cream and an ounce of butter.
Costs 4 cents a quart.
601 Trout, au Gratin.
Au gratin signifies that the fish is
ratinated or browned like toast on the
surface, and therefore, that it is covered
with bread crumbs. It comes handy to
express it in that way, as the fish is not
exactly breaded as for frying.
Split the fish in halves and dredge both
sides with salt and pepper. Put a spoon-
ful of drippings into your baking pan and
let it get hot. Dip the skin side of the
sides of fish in either milk or egg, and
then in cracker meal or crumbs ana place
in the pan with the breaded side up.
Bake it brown and baste once with butter.
Divide neatly in pieces with a sharp
knife. Serve either sauce, gravy, or
potato balls with it.
602 Blanquette (or White Dish) of
Lamb with Fried Crusts.
This was the first appearance of the
lamb in any form at this table and the
little entree was quite sure to be in re-
quest ; and although but a trifle to fill the
bill it served as a premonition to the
boarders of more lamb to come.
Took the pieces of lamb cooked in the
COOKIWG FOR PROFIT.
soup stock, cut into large dice. Boiled
a ladleful of stock with teaspponful
minced onion, put the cut meat in and
seasoned with salt and pepper.
Made white sauce of ladleful of the
finished soup (to save time) with cream,
butter, thickening and scrap broken nut-
meg and a tablespoon of mushroom cat-
sup (private stock from the cook's valise)
and poured it to the lamb. Serve with
cut shapes of fried bread for border and
a sprinkling of green peas.
603 Fancy Shapes of Fried Bread.
These may be very ornamental if fried
to a clean, bright yellow-brown color in
the clear oil of butter or in lard. Cut slices
of bread in diamond shapes or six sided
and cut out the middle, then divide by
a cut across and you have a border for
each end of the dish and the filling will
be in the middle, or, cut thin slices and
then take a scollop-edge cutter and cut
out crescent shapes and fry them.
604 Raspberry Meringne.
cents each.
Supper.
Broiled Pickerel (3 Ibs, gross, and but-
ter, 30 cents.)
Beefsteak (6 orders 12 ozs, n cents.)
Cold meats (6 orders, charged dinner.)
Codfish in cream (4 orders, 3 cents.)
Baked potatoes (3 cents.)
Butter rolls (No. 607 ; 20 cents.)
Raspberries and cream (2 qts, berries
25, sugar 5, cream 20; 50 cents.)
Plain white cake (No. 609; 2 Ibs, 17
cents.)
Butter 5, milk, cream 20, coffee, tea,
bread, sugar 15.
Total, $i 74; 25 persons; 7 cents a
plate.
i
1 606 Broiled PtekeTel with French
Potatoes.
Bought wild raspberries at 12 cents a
quart. Meringne is best made with cake
as at Nos. 195, and 395, but having paste
left over from shortcake trimmings of
previous day used that. Lined two shal-
low pans with thin crust and baked light
colored. Spread them both with one
quart berries mixed with half cup sugar.
Whipped 8 whites, stirred in 8 teaspoons
sugar, spread on top and baked lightly.
Made 24 cuts ; cost i % cents each. Serve
with cream.
605 Vanilla Ice Cream.
i quart milk.
8 yolks (left from raspberry meringne.)
i heaping cup sugar.
i pint cream.
Vanilla extract i tablespoon.
Made rich boiled custard of the milk,
sugar and yolks (No. 200) strained into
treezer, added the cream and flavor.
Takes half hour to freeze and half hour
more to stand and become firm, 3 quarts
after freezing, 8 orders to a quart, i^
Pickerel is a firmer fish than Mackinaw
trout, less oily than whitefish and pre-
ferred by many. Split by cutting down
both sides of the back bone. Cut each
half in three or four, dip in flour, put in
the hinged wire broiler, broil both sides
and brush with butter. Serve with a few
crisp "Francaise" potatoes in the plate.
607 Butter Rolls.
Sometimes called tea cake, and also
Sally Lunn.
2 pounds light bread dough,
i ounce sugara spoonful.
4 ounces butter^ cup.
3 yolks of eggs.
i teacup milk or cream.
i pound flour to work in.
Take the dough, already light, 4 hours
before the meal, mix in all the ingredients.
Let rise 2 hours. Knead, then make the
dough into round balls and roll them flat.
Brush over with melted butter and place
two of the flats together, one on the other.
Press in the center. Rise an hour, and
bake. When done, slip a thin shaving of
fresh butter inside each and brush the
top over slightly, too. Should be made
very small if to serve whole, or as large
as saucers, to cut. Makes 8 large enough
to cut in 4. Cost buttered 20 cents.
SAN PRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
608 Raspberries and Cream.
Serve the berries in glass plates or ice
cream saucers individually, quite plain,
with powdered sugar and cream on the
table.
609 Good White Cake.
A great deal of the fuss and labor some
people go through every time a white
cake is to be made is altogether needless:
to prove it try this easy cake and be sur-
prised: that it can be put together so
quickly :
2 cups sugar a pound.
i cup melted butter ^ pound.
10 whites of eggs.
1 cup milk.
2 teaspoons baking powder,
i teaspoon cream tartar.
6 cups flour i y^ pounds.
Put the sugar and melted butter into
the mixing pan along with the whites, not
whipped, tnen take the wire egg beater
and beat them together a minute or two;
add the milk, powder, cream tartar and
flour and some flavoring extract if you
choose, and beat it up with a spoon thor-
oughly. The more it is beaten the whiter
and finer the cake. If there is no cream
tartar handy use the juice of a lemon.
Makes nearly 4 pounds ; costs 34 cents.
Ought to be frosted the easy way, No. 3;
or, with frosting that will slice without
breaking, No. 635.
Breakfast.
July 12.
Fresh black cap raspberries (i qt, 10
cents.)
Oatmeal (3 cents.)
Fish plain fried (7 orders, i Ib, and lard,
12 cents.)
Beefsteak (12 orders, ij^ Ibs, 20 cents.)
Liver breaded (8 orders, 12 cents.)
Potatoes baked and a la Francaise (7
cents.)
French rolls (25, 10 cents.)
Corn bread and corn batter cakes (16
cents.)
Cream and milk 42, syrup 6, butter 15,
coffee, tea 12.
Total, $i 65; 25 persons; 6*4 cents
a nlate.
610-Fish Fried Plain.
Dip the pieces in flour only and drop
k.to a saucepan of lard hot enough to hiss.
All the smaller kinds of fish and those
most esteemed for their flavor such as
brook trout and whitebait are best fried
that way, and it is suitable for all kinds
if they are cut in thin pices.
611 Calf s Liver Breaded and Fried
Cut thin slices, pepper and salt them,
dip in a little milk in a saucer (not to
wash the seasoning away) then in cracker
meal in which a little flour has been mixed,
To make it a better color the liver had
better be dipped twice giving it a double
breading, otherwise it comes out dark.
Drop into a frying pan of hot drippings
or lard, and fry. Serve either plain or
with a slice of broiled bacon.
612 Potatoes Francaise.
Cut potatoes raw with a fluted or scol-
loped knife, (there are knives made for the
purpose) in thin strips the length of the
potato, and drop them a few at a time into
a saucepan of hot lard or drippings.
When they rise from the bottom and
float, they are dene. Take up in a col-
ander set in a plate. Sprinkle with fine
salt and a little minced parsely and serve
hot and crisp. The fat should not be
very hot for these as if fried 190 quickly
the potatoes turn soft after taking up.
Dinner.
Italian soup (No. 613; 5 qts, 20 cents.)
Boiled Mackinaw trout, pickle sauce
(2 Ibs, and sauce, 20 cents.)
Roast beef (i rib, 2 Ibs, 25 cents.)
Roast lamb (Nos 145, 146; 3 Ibs, 35
Beet greens (from garden, worth 10
cents.)
Sweet corn (i can, 15 cents.)
Rice with cream (Y 2 cup raw 2; sea-
soning 4 6 cents.)
Mashed potatoes (5 cents.)
Steamed raspberry pudding, hard sauce
(Nos. 176 and 177 ; 21 cents.)
Chocolate butter pie (without eggs ; No.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
6i7 ; 3 large, 20 cents.)
Pickles, c
;e, 20 cents.)
A i^, condiments, cheese, nuts, rrai
sins, crackers average, 25 cents.
Butter 10, milk, cream 22, coffee, tea 10.
Total, $2 44; 25 persons \ nearly 10
cents a plate.
613 Italian Soup.
4 quarts soup stock (obtained as at No
582.)
i quart milk.
4 ounces macaroni broken small.
i cup cooked lamb, veal or chicken cut
small.
i cup mixed vegetables same way.
Chopped parsely or other green herb or
vegetable.
Salt, cayenne, thickening.
It is a white soup with macaroni, etc.,
in it. Strain off the stock, skim free from
grease, put in the vegetables and maca-
roni and afterwards the cut meat and
milk. When lamb is boiled the broth
has a milky appearance and it is advisa-
ble to make white soup of that material.
614 Beet Greens.
Take the leaves of young beets, throw
away the thick stalks, wash the leaves
and keep in cold water. Shortly before
dinner put them into a pot of boiling
water in which throw a lump of baking
soaa size of a bean. The greens cook in
about half an hour. Drain in a colander.
Season with salt and corned beef fat or
butter and cut them small in the pan.
615 Rice with Cream.
Wash half a cup of rice and put it to
boil in a cup of water with a lid on. When
nearly dry add half a cup of milk and
little salt. When done mix in a half a
cup of cream. Serve same as a vegetable
in deep dishes.
616 Puddings without Eggs.
At Cedar Point Cottage on Nipantuck
Island, one day I found Mary Jane in a
state of great perturbation; she was sit-
ting on the edge of a washtub, her face
very red and with her wetted thumb she
was turning over the leaves of a cook
book at a rapid rate.
"I don't know what to g.ve 'em," she
said.
"What's the matter?"
"Pudding: Them fifteen boarders will
be here in less than an hour as hungry as
go-its, and they won't think they've had
any dinner if there don't be pudding
every day."
"Well," I said, "you know there are
some kinds can be made in a few min-
utes," and I looked to see whether her
fire was good.
"I know," she returned, "yes, I know
lots, but all the dratted puddings seems
to want eggs and there isn't an egg on the
I island this blessed day."
"Oh, that's the trouble ; then why not
try this," and I pointed out No. 176.
"Theieit is again," says Mary Jane,
"that's cherry pudding and where would
I get the cherries?"
"Don't you see that what is good for
one kind of fruit is good for any other kind?
That receipt shows the way they make
the steamed apple pudding or apple rolls
as they call it at some high-priced city
restaurants; for never an egg do they use
for puddings at some of thos^ places; they
chop the apples small and use the same
as that says to use cherries."
"And would these blackberries do that
I was^going to make pie of and didn't find
"Of course they will, and it only takes
about five minutes and your pot there is
boiling and there is the steamer hanging
up clean and ready and you must do this
way, use a large pie plate, and be sure
not to have the layers of dough too thick
because they rise so much that the pud-
ding will seem to have too little fruit if
you do. It will be all the better for being
made late and being served as soon as it is
done."
By that time Mary Jane's perplexity
was all over, and when the time came to
change those fifteen plates she had ready
for them as fine a pudding as you would
wish to meet on a summer day. For an-
other class of puddings without eggs see
Nos. 631, 639, 652, 594 and index.
SAN JFRANCTSCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
617 Chocolate Butter Pie without
Eggs.
The same as No. 577 with a small cup
of grated chocolate added to the milk
when put on to boil with the butter in it.
Chocolate flavor is n9t good in combin-
ation with eggs, but it is with butter and
cream. Chocolate custard frozen is not
much esteemed, but chocolate with pure
cream is one of the favorite ices. So this
chocolate butter pie is the best flavored
compound of the sort that can be made.
If wanted as good as it can be, use a pound
of sugar and half a pound of butter to a
quart of milk and four ounces flour and
the cup of chocolate. Makes three pies
large and deep, each to cut in eight.
Supper.
Discouraged landloard. Twelfth of
July gone and still "nobody in the
house, comparatively speaking.
Some very fine people sure to come
soon and there is a party or two talked of
but meantime he says there is no use of
our doing our best. " Cut down expense
and take it easy. There is pleasant row-
ing on the lake and the girls have struck
up some new tunes.
Cracked wheat mush (3 cents.)
Lamb stew with potatoes (10 cents.)
Cold roast beef (charged dinner.)
Potato pats ana German fried (cold
served previous meals. )
French rolls (10 cents.)
Flour batter cakes (cheapest, No. 535;
2 qts, 10 cents.)
Peaches (3 Ib, can CaL in syrup, 25
cents.)
Chelsea buns (No. 619; 22, 16 cents.)
Syrup 8, butter 20, milk, cream 32,
coffee, tea, sugar, bread 17.
Total, $i 51; 25 persons; 6 cents a
plate.
618 Lamb and Potato Stew, or Gal-
limaufry.
This is said by one of our French
authors to be the ancient dish of gal-
limaufry a la Languedocienne. It does
not hurt anybody to eat it, however, and
only costs 10 or 12 cents with all its
wealth of name thrown m.
Take some pieces of cold lamb ; about
i pound of clear meat will do and it may
be the neck or shoulder that was boiled
until just done in the soup boiler. Shave
off the dark portions and cut the meat in
kuge dice. Cut an equal amount of raw
potatpes the same way and put both on
to boil with clear broth or water barely
to cover. Put in a small onion cut up
and if to be true to name a clove of garlic
and sprig of green thyme and little chop-
ped parsley. When it has sttwed until
the potatoes are done, season with pepper
and salt and thicken it slightly if^the
potatoes have not boiled away and thick-
ened it already. It is a neat looking little
stew and good for a family supper.
619 Chelsea Buns, without Eggs.
One of the sweetest warm breads that
serve in place of cake when there are no
eggs to be had.
Take nearly half the dough that is
mixed up for French rolls and work into
it a few currants. Roll it out to a very
thin sheet, brush over with softened but-
ter, sprinkle sugar all over, then cut the
dough into ribbons and coil them into
spiral buns. Place with plenty of room
between in a buttered pan, rise an hour
and bake. Sugar over when done. For
exact pro [portions, see No. 267. That
variety is like currant rolls, these are flat
coils.
Breakfast.
gross,
July 13.
Oatmeal (3 cents.)
Beefsteaks (6, 12 cents.)
Lamb chops do, \ Ib, net,
i; cents.)
Ham (4, 8 cents.)
Shirred eggs (No. 94; i8 and butter,
24 cents.)
French fried potatoes (6 cents.)
Corn muffins (No. 286; 24, 12 cents.)
French rolls (8 cents.)
Graham batter cakes (i qt, 8 cents.)
Syrup, butter 23, milk, cream 32,
coffee, tea, sugar 12.
Total, $i 63; 25 persons; 6^ -cents.
a plate.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
620 Lamb Chops and Toast
Lamb chops are tedious, being small,
but make a cilice dish for a Sunday
breakfast. As, in order to make a chop
worth having of the ribs it is necessary to
cut two ribs to each, take out one bone and
leave all the meat on the other, there can
be but few, to serve to the most honor-
ably select, the main dependence for
quantity is in cutting up the entire loin
and perhaps the leg. Flatten with the
cleaver. Trim and shape all as near like
rib chops as may be. Cut little pieces of
buttered toast very thin and in pear shape.
Place one in the dish, a broiled chop
leaning upon it, another piece of toast
and another chop all on an end aslant
in the dish and garnish with parsley or
cress or young seed-bed celery.
Dinner. (Sunday.)
Roast beef (i rib, 2 Ibs, 28 cents.)
Spring lamb (4 Ibs, 44 cents.)
Tomatoes (i can, seasoned, 16 cents.)
Com (i can, seasoned, 16 cents.)
String beans (i can, 14 cents.)
Tomatoes (2 ways, 6 cents.)
Rhubarb pie (i, o cents.)
Cocoanut custard pie (No. 621 ; 2, 20
cents.)
Icecream with raspberries (No. 218;
3 pts, pure cream 15, 14 ozs, sugar 7,
2 qts, berries 20, freezing k 47 cents.)
Fine white cake frosted, (No. 622 ; 20
cents.)
Layer cake with raspberry jelly, frosted
(No. 622 ; 22 cents.)
Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, pickles,
condiments (average, 25 cents.)
Milk ( 2 galls, 24 cents.)
Cream (i pt, 10 cents.)
Butter, bread 13, coffee, tea 6.
Total, $3 20; 25 persons; nearly 13
cents a plate.
621 Cocoanut Custard Pie.
2 cups milk a pint.
1/1 cup sugar 4 ozs.
3 eggs-^r, 6 yolks left as from No. 622.
i heaping cup cocoanut grated fresh,
or dry.
i teaspoon lemon extract.
Beat the eggs sugar and milk together,
add the cocoanut and flavor. Makes a
quart and fills two pies large and deep.
Costs : milk 2, sugar 2, eggs 4, cocoanut
6, extract i, short crusts 4 or 5; 20 cents
for 2. Cut each in 8.
622 Best White Cake, or
Cake."
'Dream
2 cups granulated sugar a pound,
i cup butter^ pound.
12 whites of eggs-^12 ounces.
1 cup milk 2 pint.
2 rounded teaspoons baking powder,
i do creara tartar.
Vanilla or lemon extract.
4 large cups flour a pound good weight.
Sift the flour, powder and cream tartar
together three or four times over.
Soften the butter and stir it and the
sugar together until white and creamy,
gradually stir in the milk, tepid, and a
handful of the flour to keep them from sep-
arating. Whip the whites to froth and add
part whites and part flour until all are in.
can b e baked in cake moulds or in layers.
Makes i 3-pint mould of cake and i
shallow tin cake pan an inch deep. When
done, spread over them the easy cake
frosting, No. 3 and set in a warm place
to dry.
Cost : sugar 8, butter 10, whites equal
to 8 eggs @ 15, 10, milk i, powder and
c. t. 3, flour 3, frosting for 2 cakes 5; 40
cents for 4 pounds.
Supper.
Beefsteaks (9 orders, 18 cents.)
Codfish in cream (5 cents.)
Potatoes baked ana fried (4 cents.)
German puffs (No. 623 trebled; 24
puffs, 1 8 cents.)
Toast and bread (6 cents.)
White cake, cookies, jelly cake (from
dinner.)
Rhubarb stewed for sauce (13 cents.)
Milk, cream 34, butter 20, coffee, tea
12.
Total, $i 30; 25 persons; about $fa
cents a plate.
SAN fZANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
623 German Puffs, Flannel Rolls
Muffins or Popovers.
It makesagreat difference whether any
dish or product of skill is the present
fashion or not. We have all heard of
somebody's popovers and come across
remarks in the farmers' papers about
somebody else's popovers that wouldn't
pop, without wanting any in ours par-
ticularly. So when I saw that Mary Jane,
at Cedar Point Cottage, on Nipantuck
Island had a stove-full of very fine ones
ready for supper I admired them, and
told her they were splendid and she ought
to be proud that she could make them
(as indeed she was) without yet caring to
get the receipt for my books; having so
many good yeast : raised fancy breads al-
ready; and, besides, I had heard Mrs.
1 ingee condemn popovers on account of
their using up her eggs too last and not
being very good eating anyhow.
"But that isn't what we call 'em," said
Mary Janes, "them's flannel rolls."
They are popovers, Mary Jane," j.
persisted; "did you never hear of pop-
ov ', an , d PPvers that wouldn't pop?"
The baker at the Nipantuck House
called 'em flannel rolls," said she, "and
knew and he brou<;
. ~ >re he went away." !
___ sigh and turned away ^ u mere
was nothing more to be said on that
question.
Afterwards, upon the very voluminous
breakfast and supper bills of fare of a
very large summer hotel I found printed
."Kaaterskill Flannel Rplls,"and in think-
ing over what they might be, naturally
reverted to that stove-full of "flannel rolls*
on Nipantuck Island, and learning almost
immediately that the Grand Pacific was
serving them as "muffins," the Palmer
House as "German puffs" and the Mat-
teson as "flannel rolls," I began to feel
like a collector of coins, who has heard of
a date that is not in his collection, or like
one of those Dutch tulip fanciers when
they heard of a new color, and startedout
to catch up with the procession. I soon
overtook my friend the steward of the
Matteson who, for the good of the public
handed me this: take
2 eggs.
2 cups milk-
pint.
2 cups flour 10 ounces.
Salt, a small teaspoon.
Break the eggs into a bowl; beat them
light and keep adding the milk to them
gradually while your are beating. That
takes about five minutes. Add the salt.
When all the milk is in put in the flour,
all at once, and beat it smooth, like
cream. Butter the inside of six coffee
cups, divide the batter into them and
bake in a moderate oven about half an
hour.
It is to be observed there is no powder
nor raising of any kind in them and no
butter, yet they rise high above the tops
of the cups and are hollow inside when
done. They are not perfect if made with
skimmed milk. When they collapse in
the cups and come out tough and heavy
it is owing to the baking, the stove being
not hot enough on the bottom, or, pos-
sibly not having been thoroughly beaten.
I have made large batches and baked
sojne for early breakfast and beaten the
same batter again and baked it two hours
later and found the last to be as good as
the first.
Cost, 6 cents. But the cups are not
the best for a number, holding too much.
There are deep gem pans shaped like
small tumblers that suit better to bake in.
These are a pleasing kind of bread to
make, their remarkable lightness making
them always something of a marvel.
J
Breakfast.
uly 14.
Bracked wheat mush (2 cups raw, *
cents.)
Beefsteak (14 orders, i% Ibs, and but-
ter, 25 cents.)
Breakfast bacon (6 orders, 8 ozs, 7
cents.)
Calf's liver broiled (5 orders, 7 cents.)
Potatoes (4 cents.)
Plain rolls (30, 10 cents.)
Cora bread (without eggs, No. 626: 12
orders, 5 cents.)
Batter cakes (cheapest yeast-raised, No.
267; 3pts, 7 cents.)
Syrup (common, i pt, 7 cents.)
Butter 15, milk, cream 30, coffee, tea.
sugar 12.
Total, $x 32; 25 persons; 5^ cents a.
plate.
ss
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
624 Plain Rolls.
For 30 rolls dissolve i cent's worth of
yeast in 2 cups of milk or water, warm
but not hot, add a teaspoonful of salt
and stir in the flour enough to make
dough (2 IDS, 6 cents.) It is just as good
made up in ctough at first as if a sponge
was set, (that is, making a soft-batter first,
and working it up into dough afterwards,)
the part that makes the most difference
in quality, is the proper kneading of the
dough which should be as for coffee
cakes, No. 262. If made up over night,
the dough will be light in the morning.
Knead it well, make up in round rolls,
touch between each one with a brush
dipped in melted butter to cause them to
separate easily when done. Rise an hour
and bake.
The rolls will have a thin and soft crust
and will be much better Io9king if they
are brushed over the tops with a very lit-
tle lard or butter when they are first
placed in the pan. It takes away the
rough and floury appeal ance of common
bread.
Baking powder and sweet milk can be
used as well.
The same can be raised with yeast.
Makes 12 to 16 orders ; costs about q cents.
627 Yeast rfaised Batter
Without Eggs.
Cakes
625 Plain Bread.
The same as plain rolls preceding.
That quantity, makes 2 loaves. A par-
ticularly sweet home made Vienna bread
is made by giving the bread only one
rising: mixing with milk, compressed
yeast and salt at, say, 3 in the afternoon,
making up into loaves at 6 and putting in
the oven almost as soon, or in 15 or 20
minutes. Brush over with milk after
baking.
626 Corn Bread without Eggs.
It is as li^ht and soft and smooth^
crusted as wheat bread.
i/4 cups corn meal.
Y2 cup flour.
i tablespoon sugar.
y^ teaspoon soda ; same of salt.
4 tablespoons melted butter or lard.
Sour milk or buttermilk enough to mix
it up about as thin as batter cakes.
Beat up well with the spoon. Bake it
in a shallow pan. - Have the pan hot and
greased before pouring it in.
3 cups flour.
2 cups warm water.
Yz cup yeast or i cent's -worth-com-
pressed.
i tablespoon melted lard.
Same of syrup (to make them brown
easily.)
y z teaspoon salt.
Mix all the ingredients together like
setting sponge for bread with very cold
water if made over night for breakfast,
or else 6 hours before the meal with warm.
Beat thoroughly both at time of mixing
and just before baking.
Cold weather prevails; "it rains and
the wind is never weary." The 'bus will
not go to the trains to-day. The driver has
started with a wagon to a distant town to
buy brick wherewith to build two chim-
neys in the cottages occupied by the
shivering guests of the house, that they
may have fires. At present they are
huddled around the dining room fire-
place. Hope they have some among
them "whose smiles can make a sum-
mer," for we need one, badly.
Hard Times Dinner.
But it was all good, and nobody would
ever suspect that there was a paucity of
material or omission of the usual in-
gredients.
Pearl barley soup (No. 628 ; 5 qts, 20
cents.)
Roast beef (rib ends, 15^ Ibs, 15 cents.)
Roast lamb (brisket, shoulder, left
when ribs were taken for chops; 5 Ibs,
50 cents.)
Macaroni and cheese (without eggs or
butter; No. 629; 9 cents.)
Potatoes in cream sauce (5 cents.)
Tomatoes (i can, 15 cents.)
Corn li can, 15 cents.)
Pumpkin pie (No. 630 ; without eggs or
butter; 3 large; 24 cuts, 24 cents.)
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
Plain boiled rice pudding (No. 631,
without eggs; 3 pints, 14 cents; sauce
418 cents.)
Coffee 10, tea 3, milk 4 qts, 12, cream
i qt, 20, butter average 15, bread 6,
cheese 5.
Total, $242; 24 persons; 10 cents a
plate.
628 Pearl Barley Soup.
4 quarts soup stock,
i quart milk.
5 tablespoons barley.
i cupful minced vegetables.
i ounce butter.
Salt ; cayenne.
It is a white soup suitable to*be made
with mutton or lamb. To obtain the stock
boil any spare pieces of meat in 5 quarts
of water for 2 hours. Put in a small tur-
nip, onion and carrot, and stalk of celery.
Strain, skim, add the milk. Boil the
barley separately. A teaspoonful to each
quart is enough. Pour off the bluish
barley water and put the barley in the
soup. Mince a few spoonfuls of differ-
ent colored vegetables, such as string
beans, young carrots, white turnips, greer
onions, add them to the soup and boil
half an hour. Skim while boiling. Sea-
son and add butter.
629 Macaroni and Cheese without
Eggs.
*'I never could understand,** said "Mrs
Tingee, one day, "how the Italians can
be so poor, as the papers say they are
and yet eat so much macaroni as the pa
perstellus they do: I should think i
would break them up buying eggs to cook
it with. But then," she added reflectively
"sometimes the papers say things tha
ain't so. Do you cook macaroni some
times?"
"Yes ma'am, quite often."
"Do you put cheese iniL?"
"Yes."
"And eggs?"
*' Yes : and butter and mflk and toma
toes and gravy and oysters and chicke
and many more things."
"Ah; I^had a girl once who wanted t
make a dish of macaroni and I kept la]
ing off to get the things together, but,
omehow, I never did. Do you know,
friend of mine told me she once knew
hotel cook who never made a dish of
macaroni without putting eight eggs in it !
Do you think that was true?"
"Yes, ma'am ; and I have no doubt but
hat there are hotel cooks who will even
use as many as twelve, 9r thirteen."
Then Mrs. Tingee said, "O, myl"
It is a singular trait in this lady that
she never seems to regard the difference
>etween a dish for two hundred people
and a oUsh for two or three; all she sees
is the eight eggs gone at one fell swoop.
I venture the opinion that the Italians
eat macaroni alone or in soup or gravy
without much thought of cheese and
without any thought of eggs, and I doubt
very much whether many 01 them would
touch the dry and heavy cake of macaroni
and cheese that is seen at many hotel
tables in this country. There is a good
example of an Italian way of preparing
macaroni, spaghetti, lassagnes, ndilim
and other such pastes at our No. 65;
which requires neither eggs nor butter,
and here is another just as good :
Y 2 pound macaroni.
2 or 3 ounces cheese or a grated cup-
ful.
3 or 4 basting spoonfuls of fat from the
roasting meat.
2 cups water of milk.
2 spoonfuls flour thickening.
A handful of crushed crackers.
Boil the macraom 20 minutes, then
pour off the water. Put in the cheese and
other ingredients and salt ; turn it into a
2-quart pan. strew the crushed crackers
on top and bake brown.
The flour thickening added is to form
a sort of sauce in it, but not enough to
cake to the macaroni together. When
there is a suitable sauce or gravy ready at
hand it can be used to good advantage
in that way. The strained gravy from a
chicken stew, for example. Cost, 9 or xo
cents for 12 dishes.
630 Pumpkin or Squash Pie without
Eggs.
The bakery pumpkin pie; the pie of
the lunch houses and shops.
i can of pumpkin, or a quart fresh
57
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
cooked (which is cheaper.)
1 cup sugar.
2 cups milk.
3 basting spoonfuls flour-and-water
thickening
i teaspoon each ground ginger and
cinnamon.
Mash the pumpkin through a colan-
der, stir in the other ingredients. It
makes 3 pints, enough to fill 3 deep pie
plates lined with thin crusts of common
short paste. Pumpkin 14, sugar 4, milk,
spice and flour 2, crusts 424 cents or 8
cents each.
631 Boiled Rice Pudding without
Eggs.
i cup nee.
4 cups milk.
% cup sugar.
Butter size of an egg.
Wash the rice free from dust and cook
it with the milk in a farina kettle or double
kettle. If you have none put the sugar
and rice both into the milk and let boil
in a saucepan at the back of the stove
with the steam shut in. Never stir it
while cpoking and it will not burn. When
done stir in the butter. Serve in small
pudding saucers with sauce poured over.
For the sauce, boil y 2 cup sugar and piece
of lemon, nutmeg or stick cinnamon in 2
cups water; thicken slightly, add small
piece of butter and simmer until it is like
jelly
Two strangers arrived on the five o'clock
train. Just the luck. The only time the
'bus failed to go to the train somebody
came. But they got a livery ri^ and came
over. Somebody says they are real dukes.
Later : They are real Dukes. Not the
European article, but members of the
firm of Duke and Diamond, the well-
known advertising agents, of Lakeport.
Supper*
Cfatiked wheat (3 cents.)
Beefsteak (8 orders, i^ Ibs, *<J cents.)
Ham and eggs (8 orders, 36 cents.)
Cold lamb (i Ib, from dinner, charged.)
French fried potatoes (6 cents.)
German puffs (No. 623; 30; 23 cents.)
Plain rolls (few from breakfast.)
Wild raspberries (2 qts, 10 cents.)
White cake (without eggs, No. 632 ; 15
cents.)
Cream 30, sugar 10, milk 12, butter,
bread 20, coffee, tea 12.
Total, $i 97; 27 persons; 7^ cents a
plate.
632 White Caka without Eggs.
1 small cup sugar 6 ounces.
Y* cup butter 4 ounces.
2 small cups milk little less than a
pint.
2 heaped teaspoons baking powder.
; cups flour ij^ pounds.
Warm the butter and stir it and the
sugar together until well mixed, then add
the irulk and a little flavoring of nutmeg,
lemon, vanilla or cinnamon.
Mix the powder in the flour, stir all
together. It makes a stiff batter. The
more it is beaten up with the spoon the
better the cake.
To make it as white as if made with
white of eggs, one cup of the milk used
should be sour, or else add a small tea-
spoon of cream tartar tfye same thing
that makes "angel food cake" so white.
Brush the top with milk before baking.
633 White Layer Cakes
ggs.
wilhout
Bake the -white cake of the preceding
receipt in jelly cake pans; spread with
jelly when done; place two or three to-
gether and frost over the top. Should be
very thin in the cake pans or they rise too
high to make handsome layers.
634 Chocolate Layer Cakes without
Eggs.
Put half cup sugar over the fire to boil
with a large spoonful of water and add to
it two ounces of chocolate. When melted
use instead of jelly as in the preceding
receipt.
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
635 Cake Frosting without Eggs.
It is not necessary to Lave white of
eggs to make cake icing or frosting. A
better kind of frosting that will not break
when the cake is sliced, is made of either
dissolved gelatine or powdered gum
arable. 1 hey need only be dissolved in
boiling water to make a mucilage like the
common bottle mucilage in thickness,
then beat up sugar in it just the same as
with white of eggs. It is quicker to make
than the egg kind and is extremely white.
If too thick on the cakes, set them in a
warm place and this kind of frosting will
run down smooth and glossy. There is a
powdered kind of gelatine called granu-
lated, that is very good for this purpose.
Breakfast.
July 15.
Cold night. Rolls poor; no place in
summer kitchen to keep dough warm.
Cold enough for buckvvheat cakes wish
we had some. Good time for mince pies
make sausag anyhow.
Oatmeal (3 cents.)
Beefsteak (7 orders, i Ib, and butter, 15
cents.)
Breakfast bacon (5 orders, 8 oz ross,
7 cents.) s, g
Crepinettes de veau (No. 636 ; i 2 orders,
i ^Ibs, one-third raw meat, 7 cents.)
Potatoes baked and French fried (9
cents.)
French rolls (18; 8 cents.)
Corn bread (fine, with 2 cups meal, 2
eggs, 10 ozs, butter, etc.; No. 599; 12
cents.)
Hatter cakes (i qt, 7 cents.)
Butter 20, syrup 8, milk 12, cream 20,
coffee, tea, sugar 17, bread 4.
Total, $i 49; 27 persons; $% cents. a
plate.
636 Crepinettes, or Sausages of
o(Kked Meat.
Take two-thirds cold C9oked meat
and one-third raw meat with some fat
upon it, chop it into sausage meat, season
with powered sage, some salt and plenty
of black papper. Make up in little cakes
as with pork sausage and fry brown on
both sides. Cook only as wanted. They
are nice when fresh cooked and hot. Serve
without sauce or gravy, but garnish with
parsley or seed-bed celery.
Dinner.
Dinner ordered an hour earlier. Two
lady boarders arrived. The firm of
Duke and Diamond intend to make
much of their vacation from city business
and will take a sail with all the ladies on
board around the lake. Looks like an
exploration : Perhaps there is business
in it. It may be there is to be no more
dependence upon the patronage of friends
and acquaintances, but an advertisement
to the _ great pleasure-seeking public of
the claims of this place. However, the
dinner will not be much regarded and
must be short and easy.
Consomme jardiniere ( qts, 25 cents.)
Roast beef (2 ribs, 3 IDS net 40 cents.)
Spring lamb (5 Ibs 50 cents.)
Summer beets in sauce (10 cents.)
String beans (garden 10 cents.)
Corn (i can 15 cents.)
Potatoes browned, mashed (9 cents.)
Tomatoes (i can, 15 cents.)
Raspberry pie (open ; puff paste ; 3, 30
cents.)
Boiled corn starch pudding (No. 639;
pudding 9, sauce 4, 13 cents.)
Vanilla cup custard (No. 136 treble, 22
cents.)
Spice cake (without eggs, No. 640 ; frost-
ed, 21 cents.)
Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, condi-
ments, (average count, 27 cents.)
Butter, bread, coffee, tea, milk , cream,
63 cents.
Total, $3 50; 29 persons; 12 cents a
plate.
637 Consomma Jardiniere.
The words signify a clear soup with
vegetables. See No. 139. When the
materials recommended are not avail-
able make as rich a broth as can be with
the shoulder bone of the beef roast and the
"cap" or coarse meat that is upon it
and a veal shank. Strain, and remove
all grease.
Cut string beans in little diamonds,
take an equal quantity of green peas,,
young carrots and turnips cut to the same
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
size; also two green onions, a summer
squash and a small green cucumber; or
whatever of the kindcan be obtained, all
cut small, and about three cupfuls in all
to five quarts. Boil the vegetables a few
minutes* in water. Season the consomme
with salt and cayenne, and add two
tablespoons of walnut catsup. Drain off
the water from the vegetables and put
them into the consomme. A heaping
teaspoonful of starch may be used to
thicken it slightly. Let it boil until clear
again.
638 Beets in Sauce.
Boil blood beets in plenty of water from
one to two hours. Try with a fork. Put
them into cold water and rub off the skin.
Cut in quarters or suitable pieces into a
saucepan, and fill up with three parts |
water and one part vinegar. Boil, add
salt, a little butter, and flour thickening.
2 cups milk a pint.
2 heaped teaspoons baking powder.
5 cups flour i % pounds.
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon.
i teaspoon each of cloves and allspice.
Warm the butter; stir up the sugar and
milk. Put the powder and spices in the
flour, mix all and beat up well. Bake in
shallow tins and frost over when done.
Before baking brush over the top of each
cake with milk; it glazes them, and
makes smooth crust.
639- Boiled Corn Starch
without Eggs.
Pudding
4 cups milk a quart.
2 heaping tablespoons sugar.
4 do corn starch 4 ounces good
weight.
i ounce butter small egg size.
i yolk to color it it" you like.
Boil the milk with the sugar in it.
Mix the starch with a little cold milk,
thin it with some hot out of the kettle,pour
it quickly into the boiling milk and stir
while it is thickening, which it does im-
mediately.
Throw in the butter and beat up, then
add the yolk of egg thinned with milk,
and take it from the fire. An extremely
easy and simple pudding and excellent.
Must not be kept too hot after cooking
as that causes it to turn thin. Serve with
sauce.
640 Spice Cake without Eggs.
A great favorite : Looks like chocolate
cake. Would not be any better if made
with eggs.
i small cup sugar 6 ounces.
y?, cup buttei -4 ounces.
641 A Paslry and Store Room Neces-
sary.
It took about two weeks at this house
to get a little room fixed up with a few
shelves to keep certain kinds of stores upon
and a table in the same room for the
bread-making pastry, although I had
made temporary arrangements of the kind
on the very first day, being allowed to
gently pitch a lounge and rocking chair
out of the window of a little room adjoin-
ing the kitchen for the purpose. It one
person with very little help is going to get
up a great number and succession of
dishes week after week and always "get
there" as soon as the clock does, give
every guest their orders according to their
taste, keep nobody waiting and never
omit to prepare every sauce, stuffing,
ornament and trimmings which the bill
of fare promises, the track must be
cleared of obstructions and every thing
placed so that it can be picked up in
passing whenever it is wanted. Then it
is all easy, and, as somebody expressed it
here yesterday, "it is fun to cook." But
to have things as they had them here
last year would make life a burden and
take twice as many hands to prepare
meals of half the dimensions that we ex-
pect to serve; with the meats at the bot-
tom of the house, the sugar at the top,
the oatmeal across the way, the vegeta-
bles down the alley, the baking powder
locked up in a cupboard and 'the keys
running around somewhere in some-
body's pocket; the flour in a corner of
the kitchen and all the pastry table and
work place being a board on a barrel.
These are the misarran^ements which
make Mary Jane seem so inefficient, and
she herself does not know what is the
matcerthat she cannot get along with-
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
out calling upon the whole household to
drop their work and come and help her
through. I am under the impression that
a vast number of fine houses both public
and private want a shaking up in their
culinary departments and all the loose
ends bringing together where hands can
be laid upon them without waste of time,
and want something better in the way of
a work table for the cook than a mere
board on a barrel.
642 A Board on a Barrel.
Which reminds me that it is better to
be born lucky than rich. How many
lucky rascals there are wherever there is
a good hotel, not really deserving more
than stale bread and butter, who manage
to get either by audacity, favoritism or
some Detty terrorism of influencing trade
melted down in the grease, (not hot
enough) and were sent in that way, soft
and disgustins and a dozen such blunders
or more I should have liked to correct but
the contract would have been too large,
and, besides, there was no convenience.
When their Mary Jane made bread she
mixed up a pan of dough, using for her
table a board set on top of the barrel of
flour. When she wanted a handful of
flour she had to set the pan over on the
dish sink and remove the board, and then
set them back again and it was a fine
painted, grained and ornamented kitchen
too and when she made rolls she could
not knead the dough, but seized a hand-
tul, squeezed it and pinched off the little
dumpling shape that rose up out of her
fist. Well, they were not very bad rolls,
and not very good ; just the commonest
of the common although the people were
rich and might as well have had the
a living that a king might envy, the first, finest; and neither Mary Jane nor I could
best and dearest of everything that comes roll out the pastry on a board on a barrel
to market ; and how many deserving- but
unlucky rich people there are in private
homes who never know what it is to have a
really good meal. One such family living
in a small city in the Delectable Moun-
tains, on a certain occasion employed me
to get up a "Mother Hubbard party"
supper for fifty.
These gooa people had an income from
a fortune of two hundred thousand dol-
lars; they were amiable, generous to an
extreme ; the lady was sunshine itself in
spite of poor meals; they deserved really,
to live in a good hotel and enjoy the best
of cookery and yet in fact they had noth-
ing but Mary Jane and a kitchen, that
was little more than a board on a barrel.
As for my own three days' work that did
not concern me, for I had a separate room
and everything needful, but then I could
see the gentleman was not happy. He
was intended by nature to be a man of a
large and portly presence ; the frame was
broad, but there was not much upon it ;
his vest was not filled out and could not
be with such poor cooking as a board on
a barrel affords. I could not see without
some concern their Mary Jane trying to
broil large and thick beefsteaks over the
holes of a stove filled with soft coal, doing
the same thing three times each day and
sending them in half cooked, halt raw,
blackened with coal smoke, dirty. Car-
lot croquettes she tried to make and they
that tipped over.
We may take Mr. Toots' view of such
a matter saying, "it's of no consequence,"
for health ana strength may be kept up
on very plain food, if one will be an as-
cetic ana philosopher, but that is what very
few will be. In this family were four
daughters, young ladies for whose pleasure
this party was given, and the mischief oi
the situation is, that having grown up with
nothing better before their eyes they will
go out to their own housekeeping think-
ing that a board on a barrel is all that is
needed to set up a kitchen, and that the
miserable ways of Mary Jane which
they have seen are the ways they must
remember and carry on as all that is
necessary to know about cooking.
Finding these good people inclined to
liberality in the matter of expenditure,
when sending for some Lie big's extract
ot meat, wherewith to make their bouillon
of extra fineness, I sent for twice as much
as was needed that some might remain to
give them pleasure some other day ; the
same by the finest salad oil, the walnut
catsup to give a new zest to their soups ;
mushroom catsup to transform their
chicken stews and pies; genuine table
sauces to help ameliorate those dreadful
beefsteaks; some kirchwasser for the
ladies' punch ; genuine maraschino to im-
plant a new sensation for them in the'
creams and jellies; a few truffles to cause
COOKING POR PRO f IT.
them to ask questions ; Camera bert cheese j
in tiny round boxes; Roquefort cheese
in larger bulk j biscuits ot the superfine
sorts and choice fruits, all in excess of
the needs of the one night. After the
supper was over I had the satisfaction of
seeing the remainders of the goods and
sweets with the unwonted flavors spirited
away to secure hiding places by fairy
fingers, and then had to leave these poor
two-hundred-thousand-dollar people to
the maladministrations of Mary Jane
with her board on a barrel; but they
seemed to deserve a better fate.
Supper.
Cracked wheat (2 cups, 4 cents.)
Beefsteak (7 orders, i Ib, and bULter,
18 cents.)
Lamb chops (n orders, i% Ibs, 18
cents.)
Chipped beef in cream (3 orders, 3
cents.)
Cold meats (6 orders, 12 ozs, net,
charged dinner.)
Potatoes French fried and baked (6
cents.)
Sally Lunn(2o cents.)
Batter cakes (i qt, 8 cents.)
Green gages in syrup (i can, 25 cents.)
Cake and cookies (without eggs, 15
cents.)
Buttermilk, cream, milk 36, bread 6,
syrup 6, butter 15, coffee, tea, sugar 16.
Total, $i 96; 27 persons; 7^ cents a
plate.
643 Chipped Beef in Cream.
Shave the dried beef extremely thin
with a plane or sharp knife, and parboil
it in water.
While it is in preparation, make a cup-
ful ot cream sauce ; beat in a small lump
of butter additional, then drain the water
from the beef and pour the suce over it
instead.
644 Sally Lunn Tea Cakes.
If you are making rolls or bread daily,
for the evening meal it will be easy to
change the dough into sally lunn. Make
up the dough at, say, n o'clock, the same
as at No. 532 and let it rise until 3. Then
take nearly all, or 2)4 pounds, or 5 or 6
cups of the dough.
l /2 cup butter, melted.
3 tablespoons sugar
2 eggs and 2 yolks.
y>z cup warm milk.
2 cups .lour.
Work them all together and beat up
very thoroughly. It is like muffin dougn
or fritters, too soft to handle.
Let rise until 5. Beat again. Divide
it in 4 or 5 pie pans previously buttered
and rise half an hour, then bake and have
them hot and ready at 6. Cut like pieces
of pie carefully with a sharp knife not
to crush it. Send it in instead of rolls.
Makes 24 to 28 cuts; costs 20 or 21 cents.
645 Cookies without Eggs.
1 small cup sugar 6 ounces.
Yz cup butter 4 ounces.
2 small cups milk little less than a
pint.
3 heaped up teaspoons baking powder.
Flour to make soft dough about
6 cups.
Warm the butter and mix it and the
sugar together and then the milk (water
will do.) Mix the powder in the flour,
stir all together. Roll out very thin.
Shake some granulated sugar over the
sheet of dough, cut out and bake well
done. Costs 17 or 18 cents for about 100
cookies.
Breakfast.
July 16.
Fresh raspberries (2 qts, 20 cents.;
Oatmeal (2 cents.)
Beefsteak (8 orders, i Ib, and butter,
1 8 cents.)
Mutton chops (n orders, itf Ibs, 18
cents.)
Ham (6 orders, 12 ozs, equal i Ib,
gross, 15 cents.)
Omelets and boiled eggs (20 eggs, 25
cents.)
Potatoes German fried (5 cents.)
Corn bread (without eggs, No. 626;
5 cents.)
Buttermilk muffins (without eggs, No.
646; 22, Scents.)
Rice batter cakes (10 cents.)
Milk, cream, buttermilk 36, coffee, tea,
sugar 20, butter 18, syrup 8, bread 6.
Total, $* 14; 27 persons; 8% cents a
SAN JFRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
plate.
646 Buttermilk Muffins without Eggs. )
4 cups flour.
i tablespoon sugar.
i teaspoon salt.
1 teaspoon soda, small.
2 or 3 tablespoons melted butter or lard.
2 cups butter-milk.
Mix all, beat up thoroughly the more
it is beaten the better the muffins will
be then drop spoonfuls into greased
gem pans. Makes about 22 or accord-
ing to size ; costs 7 or 8 cents.
647 Rice Batter Cakes.
2 large cups dry cooked rice.
i large cup milk or water,
i cup flour.
2
2 tablespoons baking powder.
Mash the rLe free from lumps; mix
all and beat up well. Butter milk and
soda can be used instead of baking pow-
der, and mik. A small cup of rice raw
makes the required amount. Costs 10
cents a quart, or 24 cakes.
Dinner.
First bill of fare. /
Soup Macaroni clear (4 qts, 20 cents.)
Corned beef (i Ib, 10 cents.)
Roast beef (i rib, 2 Ibs, 25 cents.)
Roast lamb (3 Ibs, 30 cents.)
Broiled Sweetbreads, maitre d'hotel
(No. 651; Sweetbreads 19, sauce 5; 24
cents.)
. Green peas (garden, equal i can, sea-
soned, 20 cents.)
Corn and tomatoes (30 cents.)
Potatoes mashed, browned (6 cents.)
Tapioca pudding (without eggs, No.
652 ; and sauce, 12 cents.)
YVhite Mountain ice cream (2 qts, 35
cents.)
Chocolate and other cake (without
eggs, 20 cents.)
Cherries, nuts, raisins, pickles, cheese
27.
Butter, bread, coffee, tea, milk, cream
So-
Total, $3 09; 27 persons; 11% cents a
plate.
648 Macaroni Clear Soup.
One ounce of macaroni or less to a
quart is enough.
Make soup stock by boiling soup
bones and a bunch of vegetables and
spoonful of tomatoes in five ^quarts of
water. Strain through a napkin or Cne
seive. Skim off all the fat. Boil again,
season, thicken slightly with a table-
spoonful of starch. Boil gently until it
again becomes clear and skim ^well.
Boil separately 4 ounces macaroni un-
til half done (10 minutes), drain, and as
it lies in the colander cut it into very
short pieces all of one size. Rinse it off
with hot water to get rid of crumbs and
drop it in the clear soup to finish cooking.
Lamb should not be used for clear soups
as it makes a whitish stock. Use little
burnt sugar to color if necessary.
649 Tiouble with the Corned Beef.
An old friend of mine went as steward
to open the new and splendid Winnipeg-
away House at Red Lake Falls, and when
I arrived there a week or two after and
asked "how's everything" he said, rather
sorrowfully that everything was all right,
"except blame the luck 1"
I thought he was going to say the drain-
age or climate or railroad connections or
something large, but, after all it is the
small troubles that are hardest to bear-
he said he couldn't get a bit of corned
beef fit to put on the table, and he had
all the directors of the new concern there,
hawk-eved and exacting to the smallest
particulars; just as is always the case
whilst a new hotel is the new toy of a
company.
They had salt beef but it would not
turn to that pink or scarlet color which
you like to see a streak of pink and a
streak of fat upon a bed of pale green
boiled cabbage for your New England
boiled dinner ; for plain salt beef turns
dark, almost black after slicing, and has
something of the depressing effect upon
the diner of a cloudy day. It was not
only their own which they had tried to
pickle, but the village butcher's was
equally poor,
It is saltpeter that gives the required
color. They had both employed salt-
peter. They were a good way from a
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
large town, but both had obtained their
stores from the same place. Told the
steward that I thought I used to know
that there are two sorts of saltpeter, but
it does not make any difference if you
make sure to get the large crystals, size
of your thumb, look like washing soda or
alum. That which they had used was
small like cpmmon salt. We obtained
the right article the next day, made new
brine 'according to the following receipt ;
dropped some oeef in it while it was warm
almost hot and in twelve hours there-
after used some of the thin pieces that
boiled as red as a painted town.
650 Corned Beef Brine.
6 gallons water nearly 3 pailfuls.
3 to 6 ounces saltpeter, in water.
i pint sugar.
10 pounds coarse salt.
Boil the above all together and skim
while it is boiling. Pour it into two stone
jars or a keg or barrel. The jars are best
in places where there are pieces of beef
unsuitable for roasting, to be rolled up
and tied in shape and dropped in every
day, one jar to receive the fresh additions
ana the other to use out of that which is
sufficiently corned.
For this use the larger Quantity of salt-
peter is needed. Beef dropped in this
pickle will be ready for use in a week.
But when a quarter of beef is to be cut
up and put down in brine to remain in it
a very long time, 3 or 4 ounces of saltpeter
is sufficient. The barrel should be kept
in a cool, dry cellar. Put a board on top
of the meat and a rock upon that. Keep
covered.
While they are cooking soften 4 ounces
of butter, squeeze in the juice of half a
lemon, add a dust of cayenne, a table-
spoonful chopped parsley or other green
and spoonful of water. Serve the sweet-
breads hot from the broiler with sauce
poured over and garnish of lemon and
parsley or seed-bed celery.
Anything cooked a la maitre d'hotel
has a combinaton of green herbs with an
acid ; it may be in butter or in thin white
sauce.
652 Tapioca Pudding without Eggs,
Costs 10 or 1 2 cents or i cent each
order.
1 heaping cup tapioca % Ib.
4 cups milk a quart.
2 tablespoons sugar.
Small lump of butter.
Take half the milk and put the tapioca
in it to soak in a little pan set in a rather
warm place for an hour or two. Boil the
rest of the milk with the sugar and butter
in it, put in the tapioca, stir up, pour into
a buttered pan and bake half an hour.
It is, of cpurse, quite white. Serve with
any pudding sauce. One egg or two yolks
may be added if wished to have it richer.
The e^gs must not be boiled in the milk,
but stirred in just before putting in the
oven.
651 Broiled
Sweetbreads,
d'Hotcl.
Maitre
It can generally be relied upon that
only two-thirds, perhaps only half the
people will order such a dish as this how-
ever good it may be. Prepare the sweet-
breads by splitting in slices the flat way,
dust with salt and pepper, press down in
a plate of flour to coat well on both sides;
broil in the wire oyster broiler. Turn
frequently and baste with a brush dipped
in butter.
653 Red Raspberry Sauce for Pud-
dings.
Take half red raspberry juice or syrup
and half water. To one cup add hafi
cup sugar with a heaping teaspoonful
starch mixed in it dry. Simmer over the
fire until thick and clear. Good sauce
for any white pudding like the preced-
ing.
654 White Mountain Ice Cream.
i quart cream,
i pint milk.
1 cup sugar.
2 large tablespoons starch.
Boil the milk and sugar and thicken
with the starch. Add the cream cold.
Flavor, strain and freeze.
SAN fRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
655 Chocolate Cake without Epgs.
1 small cup sugar 6 ounces.
% cup butter 4 ounces.
2 cups milk a pint.
2 rounded teaspoons baking powder.
5 cups flour ij^ pounds.
2 ounces chocolate.
Warm the butter and stir it and the
sugar together until well mixed, then add
the milk and vanilla flavoring if you have
it. Mix the powder in the flour and stir
all together.
Melt two ounces of common chocolate
in a little pan by wanning it with noth-
ing added and beat it into the cake bat-
ter.
Bake in shallow tins and frost overwhen
done, with frosting made without eggs,
No. 635.
Supper.
Oatmeal and cracked wheat mush (3
cents.)
Beefsteak (8 orders, i Ib, and butter, 16
cents.)
Corned beef stewed with potatoes (*4
Ib, meat, etc., 6 orders, 7 cents.)
Codfish in cream (4 orders, 3 cents.)
Cold meats (4 orders, charged dinner.)
Potatoes (from dinner, baked few, 2
cents.)
Plain rusks (without eggs, No. 657 ; 20
rusks, 10 cents.
Rolls and bread (n cents.)
Raspberry tartlets and cake (paste trim-
mings and remainders from dinner, say,
10 cents.)
Fresh raspberries (3 pints, 12 cents.)
Batter cakes (no orders.)
Butter 15, milk, cream, buttermilk 42,
coffee, tea, sugar 16.
Total, $i 47 ; 26 persons ; nearly 6 cents
a plate.
656 Corned Beef Stew with Pota-
toes.
Called also hashed corned beef. Make
same as the lamb "gallimaufry" No. 618
of equal quantities of corned beef with
some fat upon it and potatoes all cut in
neat dice shapes.
657 Rusks without Eggs.
Take half your roll dough and work in
sugar and butter, setit^to rise again and
.t 4 o'clock make out in round balls or
cut with a small biscuit cutter; butter
Between them when placing in the pan
and brush over the tops; place near
together but not crowded ; rise an hour
or longer and bake in a slack oven about
20 minutes.
The difficulty with most people's sweet-
ened breads is that they are clammy like
dough not sufficiently baked. There is
no need of having them that way for all
that is necessary to make them feathery
Light and dry, is the proper way of knead-
ing fully explained for coffee cakes at No.
262 ana elsewhere; and then sufficient
time to rise.
The right proportions are :
2 pounds light dough about a good
quart dipperful.
3 ounces butter or lard f cup.
8 ounces sugar i cup.
Brush over with syrtrp when done and
dredge sugar.
Breakfast.
Blackcap raspberries and currants (2
qts, 18 cents.)
Oatmeal (2 cents.)
Beefsteak (4 orders, 10 cents.)
Lamb chops (10 orders, 20 small chops,
2 Ibs, 20 cents.)
Omelets with green onions (No. 89 ; 4
orders, 8 eggs, 10 cents.)
Eggs poached and boiled (10 orders,
24 cents.)
Potatoes minced in cream (No. 534; 7
cents.)
German puffs (No. 623; 18 large with
6 eegs, etc., 1 8 cents.)
Corn bread (buttermilk, no eggs, 8
orders, 3 cents.)
Graham batter cakes (no eggs, i qt, 7
cents.)
Milk (6 qts, 18 cents.)
Cream (3 pts, 30 cents.)
Butter (i Ib, 20 cents.)
Syrup 4, bread 4, coffee, tea, sugar 14.
Total, $2 09; 26 persons; 8 cents a
plate.
COOKING fOR PROflT.
658 -White Citron Cake w.thout
Eggs.
1 small cup sugar 6 ounces.
y<i cup butter 4 ounces.
2 cups milk a pint (part of it should
be sour.)
2 heaped teaspoons baking powder.
5 cups flour 1 5^ pounds.
Yz pound citron cut small.
i teaspoon lemon extract.
Soften the butter, stir it up with the
sugar and the milk not too cold to mix.
Sift the powder in the flour. Mix and
beat well and add flavor and the citron
previously dusted with flour. Bake in
round mould or shallow tin and frost
over. Fine cake and favorite. If no sour
milk use pinch cream tartar or juice of
half a lemon to whiten it. Use no soda
in any cake that is to be white. Costs,
30 cents for 3^ pounds frosted without
eggs.
Dinner.
Soup, beef a 1'Anglaise (5 qts, 25 cents.)
Whitefish, Point Shirley Style (2 fishes,
4lbs, 20 orders, with seasonings,45 cents.)
Boiled corned beef (^ Ib, 5 cents.)
Boiled bacon and greens (trifle, 3 cents.)
Roast loin of beef (2 Ibs, 30 cents.)
Roast lamb (3 Ibs, 30 cents.)
Veal patties, bechamel, (ro with ^ Ib,
veal, 12 cents.)
String beans with bacon (garden, 12
cents.)
Green peas (garden, 10 cents.)
Tomatoes and corn (20 cents.)
Potatoes (two ways, 7 cents.)
Sponge pudding, cherry sauce (No.
664; I /4 Ibs, with sauce, 19 cents.)
Cherry pie (i large, with i pt, pitted
cherries 6, sugar 3, crust 3; 12 cents.)
Raspberries and cream (i qt, berries,
8 cents.)
Cream 20, milk 12, butter, bread n.
Crackers, cheese, pickles, condiments,
nuts, raisins, average 27 cents.
Coffee, tea, sugar 12.
Total, $3 19; 27 persons, nearly 12
cents a plate.
659 Beef
Soup, a I'Anglaisj,
English Uyle.
or
cut beef and vegetables in it.
Prepare stock over night that the soup
may be ready in good time in the fore-
noon, to allow it to simmer and have fre-
quent skimming to brighten it. The
stock may be made by boiling the lower
P9rtion of round of beef (2 Ibs., 15 cents)
with other beef trimmings and a veal
bone ; a bayleaf and six ctoves and an
onion. Strain and skim, boil and add a
thickening of brown roux if you can have
good butter, or of baked flour, or common
fl9ur-and-water. Cut 2 small cups of
different soup vegetables in small dice
and the same of the cold boiled beef out
of the stock pot. Simmer at least an
hour; skim often, season, and at last add
a tablespoon of walnut catsup, and half
a lemon cut in small slices.
660 Whitefish, Point Shirley Style.
The fish are split in halves, laid open,
seasoned, baked in a buttered dripping
pan, egged over while baking and spread
with softened butter and minced parsley
when done. Divide in portions with a
broad fish slice; serve on small plates
with a spoontul of mashed potato in the
sarae "plate.
661 Bacon and Greens.
A small quantity of greens, not enough
to serve as a vegetable with every order,
fills up a gap in this way and will seldom
be called upon when other dishes are
numerous. Boil the bacon with the
corned beef first, then with the beet,
radish or turnip greens. Serve a slice on
each dish of greens.
It is a brown, strong soup with small
662 Veal Patties, Bechamel.
The term bechamel attached to a dish
signifies that it is in cream sauce and con-
sequently white; thus the white oyster
patties, No. 327. are a la Bechamel in a
bill of fare. It is the name of a French
steward or cook, who brought cream
sauce into notice; but to be genuine the
sauce should be but half cream, the other
half seasoned broth boiled down strong
and clarified. Cut cooked veal in neat
dice, put it in bechamel sauce well sea-
SANPRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
66
soned and fill patty shells wich it same as
oysters.
663 String Becns, German Style.
Snap short and boil an hour. Instead
of butter or cream sauce to finish cut up
some bacon or salt pork quite small, and
boil with the beans after pouring off the
first water.
664 Baked Sponge Pudding.
Make butter sponge cake, No. 561.
Bake in shallow tins. Sift granulated
sugar over before baking and it will come
out glazed. Cut in small square blocks
and serve with red syrup made of cherry
juice, water and sugar.
665 Cherry Pie, Country Style.
Roll the paste thin, line the largest pie
pan. Put in 2 cups of pitted cherries
raw, spread sugar over, cover with a thin
crust, bake slowly and well but light
colored.
Supper
Oatmeal (2 cups raw, 4 cents.)
Broiled bass (n orders, 2 fishes, 3 Ibs,
gross, and butter, 30 cents.)
Beefsteak (3 orders, 7 cents.)
Cold corned beef (4 orders, charged
dinner.)
Potatoes (pats and cold fried, charged
dinner.)
Biscuits (20, buttermilk, 9 cents.)
French coffee cakes (No. 262; 30,
glazed, sugared, warm, 20 cents.)
Cake (2 kinds, for show, trifle used, 10
cents.)
Raspberries (3 pints, 15 cents.)
Cream (3 pints, 30 cents.)
Butter 15, bread 4, coffee, tea, sugar 17.
Mik, buttermilk 24.
Total, $i 85; 27 persons; 7 cents a
plate.
666 Broiled Bass.
It will be found that dipping the split fish
in flour before broiling secures a better
jrown color than it will take on without.
;t is a firm fish and rather dry when
>roiled, but preferred so by many to
whitefish or other oily kinds. Split
engthwise, divide each side in two or
,hree, flour, and while broiling baste with
a brush dipped in butter. Small ones
may be broiled whole, the head being
eft on, and larger ones for restaurant
orders partly broiled, and finished in the
oven or wholly broiled by being wrapped
in buttered paper,allowing plenty of time.
Breakfast.
July 18.
Cherries and gooseberries (2 qts, 16
cents.)
Oatmeal (3 cents.)
Fried trout (dipped in flour only, 4
orders, 8 cents.)
Saratoga chips and baked potatoes (5
cents.)
Beefsteak (6 orders, 8 cents.)
Bacon d order, 2 cents.)
Lamb chops (13 orders, 26 chops, 3 Ibs,
gross, 30 cents.)
Fancy twisted rolls (20 rolls, 10 cents.)
Corn egg-bread (6 cents.)
Graham batter cakes (i qt, 6 cents.)
Cream (3 pts, 30 cents.)
Milk, buttermilk (6 qts, 18 cents.)
Butter 15, syrup 6, bread 4, coffee,
tea, sugar 16.
Total, $i 83; 26 persons; 7 cents a
plate.
Last evening two of Black's boarders
came over to look at rooms ladies said
to be a banker's wife and daughter said
they could not endure the noise over there
had heard good reports of our "Eyrie"
from our two friendly Dukes ; took rooms
in the hill cottage and would move over
this morning. They came again for good
after breakfast. Gentleman soon after
came over in a buggy ; a colonel some-
body; has been stopping at the Palmer,
the other large hotel at the depot. He
says they gave him a sour mutton chop
for breakfast this morning; that every
steak and mutton chop he has had since
he has been there has been sour "and a
fellow can't stand that, you know." He
must have had previous acquaintance
with these ladies for after engaging a room
and sending for his baggage they three
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
went sailing into the west in the same
boit together before they had been here
an hour.
On eleven o'clock train arrived another
member of the Dukes firm lady this
time. Has been at some neighboring
resort.
"What is a lady duke. called isn't she
a duchess?"
"Why, certainly she is a duchess of
course. Goodness ! girls, you must wait
on them splendidly, the best you know
how for now we have a family from
Paris, two dukes, a duchess, a colonel
and a banker's wife and daughter you
must fold the napkins in beautiful shapes,
like this and this, and cut the finest bread
in thick blocks and lay one under the fold
of the uapkin on each inverted plate, this
way. The housekeeper will show you
more when she comes in, but I hope they
will keep her always busy in th~ cottages
now."
Arrived at same time two elegant
boquets for the cook, viz. : one basket of
summer cabbages, 8 cost 40 cents; and
one basket summer beets and onions,
cost the same.
Have just received notice to prepare a
little birthday supper two days hence.
Arrived, first lot of meat from a new
butcher, one who is used to supplying
hotels. Was rather surprised to find by
bill everything charged one uniform price,
ii cents a ponnd.
There is i5cent ham, i2^-cent loin
beef and roast, i3-centlard, 8-cent mut-
tonand lo-cent lamb and other items all
charged at n cents all round. Seems
novel, but gooti enough.
667 Trouble with Sour Meats.
Noblesse oblige. A gentleman speaks
truth about a hotel although he may be
seeking reasons for leaving it. When
the colonel says the steaks and chops
served to him at the Palmer House at
Uintah Lake are always sour, there is
nothing to be said but to seek the reason
why.
Our breakfast and supper bills of fare
show that sometimes there will be four
beefsteaks ordered and at another twelve
tor fourteen ; the same with lamb or mut-
ton chops, bacon, fish and other meats ;
these numbers are to be multiplied by ten
a for house like the Palmer,at the depot,
and yet if a train should arrive bringing
an unusual number of people to a meal,
there would be no unusal flurry and the
many would receive their fresh broiled
meats as soon > as the few would have
done; and, taking one time with another,
there wiU be no more cooked steaks and
chops left over after a meal for a few than
for a large number. This is because the
meats are always kept ready to be laid
upon the gridiron, but are never actually
cooked until they are asked for, and this
is the great recommendation of the first-
class plan of broiling meats to order over
the Barnacle way of cooking up a lot of
meat large enough to meet expected de-
mands and haying to throw away panfuls,
blackened, dried or sodden of that which
is left, or be thrown into wild confusion
by the arrival of five or six unexpectedly.
'1 he one disadvantage of the possibility
of the cut meats turning sour before they
are cooked,is due entirely to carelessness
There should be a tray made purposely
to hold the raw steaks, chops and other
meats, like this :
Cutlet*
Veal and Pork
BaCOC.
Ham.
Mutton
and
Lamb Chops
Tendcrloini
Co amon
Steak
Broiler's Tray of Cut Meats.
iron: the compartments are 10 or 12
inches square, the sides are 3 inches
deep; there are stout handles on two
sides, like a baking pan, to cany and
hang up by when not in use. A tray with
more or smaller compartments than this
is hard to clean, being unweidly, but
there might be two used for a large busi-
ness requiring twice as many kinds of
meats to be ready.
The trouble over at the Palmer House
is caused by the tray being overstocked.
They not only fill it but stack it up with
SAN RANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
steaks, chops and cutlets ; bring it from
the refrigerator to the kitchen, keep it
there in front of range and broiler for
four hours from 6 till 10 in the morn-
ing of a hot summer day; only use half
and cany the remainder back to the
meat house where it hardly becomes
cool before supper time when it is brought
out again. .They ^ould not have any
sour meats if they would but leave the
bulk of them in the refrigerator and only
bring out a dozen or two of orders at a
time mere matter of forethought.
Dinner.
Consomme, a la de Stael (No. 668; 6
qts, 35 cents.)
Salmon trout, a la Chevaliere (2 fishes,
4 Ibs, and seasonings, 40 cents.)
Nantaise potatoes (3 cents.)
Boiled ham and corned beef (20 cents.)
Roast loin of beef (3 Ibs, net, 38 cents.)
Lamb cutlets with puree of green peas
(12 orders, 18 cents.)
Scrambled sweetbreads in pasty borders
(6 orders, 10 cents.)
Marrowfat peas (15 cents.)
Lima beans (dried, y z Ib, and season-
ings, 5 cents.)
Corn and tomatoes (20 cents.)
Potatoes mashed, boiled (6 cents.)
Eve's pudding, raspberry butter sauce
(No. 675; pudding 20; sauce 9; 29 cents.)
White coc9anut pie (No. 677 ; mering-
ued pink with raspberry juice, 2 pies
large, deep, 26 cents.)
Vanilla ice cream (32 cents.)
Cherries and currants (2 qts, 16 cents.)
Cake assorted (12 cents.)
Cheese, crackers, pickles, nuts, raisins
(average, 30 cents.)
Milk 12, cream 15, coffee 6, tea, sugar
6, bread 6.
Total, $4 oo ; 30 persons; 13 Ji cents a
plate.
The cpionel when at table, it woulc
appear, is talkative and full of life anc
spirits. That's all right. He made the
aemark that my consomme was exquisite
but, was seasoned too highly with cay-
enne, and of course I heard! of it. No
such thing. But that's all right. II
bet he only said it to lead off to currie
and his experiences in hot climates anc
his "hairbreath 'scapes by flood anc
field." That's all right too; we,a)l have
our parts to play and get our work in when
we can. Then, later on, he asked the
manager, with whom he is already on
crms of the utmost cordiality , why this was
called Eve's pudiing and the manager,
aughing, said he would ask me. Now, a
ellow does not want to be bothered with
bol questions after scudding around the
whole of a hot morning preparing^ din-
ner and then carving and serving it ; still
'. did not tell them to go to thunder as
cooks generally do under such circum-
stances this house being too small for
anybody to be mean in but replied that
:he pudding is as old as the hills ; one of
:he oest ever was invented ; the receipt
las been put in rhyme like Sydney Smith's
salad dressing ; didn't known why it^ is
called Eve's unless because it contains
apples, and couldn't even see where that
came in, Then the irrepressible colonel
took a bill of fare and wrote on the back
of it:
Eureka 1
"The woman tempted me and I did
eat."
The pudding tempted/^ and /did eat!
The manager showed it to me after
dinner was over. That's all right. I'll
keep it to fling at the next one asks me
something I don't know. I'll have to
save tenderloin steaks for the colonel.
668 Consomme a la do Stael.
It is a clear, rich brown soup with
lozenge shapes of fried bread and
quenelle forcemeat in the plates.
Make a rich broth of beef and veal
boiled down strong overnight with a
bunch of soup vegetable* and three or
four cloves. Strain into a jar. When
cold remove the fat, pour off from the
sediment. Chop a pound of lean beef
and boil up in the beef broth. Strain
through a napkin. Set over the fire again
skim, season, and add from one-third to
one-half of a little white pot of Leibeg's
extract of meat (private stock from the
cook's valise.) The consomme will then
have sufficient color and flavor.
For the quenelles mince a piece of
white veal size of an egg, (or; use breast
of partridge, quail or chicken if at hand)
and then pound to a paste. Season with.
a pinch of minced herbs or parsley and
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
grated lemon rind (very little), moisten
with yolk of egg, fatten out, cut with
something like a funnel point or apple
corer if you have not the proper cutters,
drop the quenelles in boiling water ; dip
up two to each plate of soup. Cut out
bread with the same cutter, fry in the
clear part of melted butter and put two
in each plate with the quenelles.
These little accessories can be made
ready long before they are to be used ;
perhans in the intervals between orders
while breakfast is going on. The French
name was given lonGj ago in allusion to
Madame de Stael, of literary and political
fame.
669 The Chevalier Style.
One of our French authors writes ad-
miringly of "the chevaliers and abbes"
of the last century, and their beneficent
influence in advancing and disseminating
the art of cookery. The chevaliers, it
appears, were men of high social position ;
a sort of gentlemen soldiers, educated
according to the culture of those days;
having nothing particular to do but travel
and see what they thought was the world;
putting up themselves and their steeds at
the monasteries when it happened that
there was no inn that offered entertain-
ment for man and beast ; observing what
the fattest of the fat friars ate and thrived
upon and telling it at the next table for
the edification of the new company;
sampling and remembering the best dishes
of the different countries and carrying the
news in the times when books, papers and
readers alike were few and dull. It could
not be otherwise than that some maitrcs
hotel (stewards of wealthy houses)
should eagerly name some dish which
had been so lucky as to be approved by
one of these perhaps temporarily C9n-
spicuous personages, a la ehevaliere, which
is impliedly a la mode chevaliere; oras
we should write it in the chevalier
fashion ; and it appears that there have
been many dishes so named, but nearly
all were evanescent, having no distin-
guishment but some trifling accessory or
whim of decoration of no permanent
value. A comparison of several author-
ities shows that the only dishes which all
agree in designating as a la chevaliere,
are those that are egged and bre?d-
crumbed. A chicken breaded and fried
is a la chevaliere, a trout breaded and
fried is a la chevaliere, too. The deco-
rations vary ,the breading is the one perma-
nent feature. There is a refinement in
this however, which requires grated cheese
Parmesan to be mixed with the bre d
curmbs used to coat the morsel. It may
easily be imagined how some epicurean
rover sitting down to breakfast with the
sleek abbot found a surprise and a revel-
ation in his first dish of capon bread-
crumbed and fried in oil ; how he labored
to reproduce the dish when he returned
come, and how it came to be called the
chevalier's. ^
It should be observed that although
the masculine chevalier does not termi-
nate with e t a peculiarity of the French
language requires a terminal e to be
added and makes it feminine in the
menu, as are all the words which follow
"a la mode." Parisian style potatoes as-
sume the feminine Parisienne; macaroni
Italian style becomes Italienne, and so
with all designations after "a la" except
the proper names of persons.
670 Tiout, a la Uhevaliere.
Split the fish, remove all bones, sea-
son with fine salt, cayenne and drops of
lemon juice. Mix together 2 cups cracker
meal and i cup grated or finely minced
cheese (any kind.) Dip the sides of the
, fish in beaten egg in a shallow pan, then
I in the cracker dust mixture ana let lie in
it awhile. Spread a baking pan with soft
butter, lay the fish in and bake slowly,
basting once with melted butter. The
pan should be roomy that the pieces of
fish may not be crowded together. Serve
hot and crisp without sauce, but with
potatoes in the same plate.
671 Nantaise Potatoes.
Scoop out fluted berry shapes of raw
potatoes with a potato spoon, put them
in a saucepan with a lump of butter and
let simmer in it until done, then pour off
the butter, set the potatoes in the oven
to brown slightly. Sprinkle with minced
parsley. Serve with fish. Nantaise has
reference to the city of Nantes, in France.
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
70
672 Lamb Cutlets with Puree o*
Green Peas.
Take ths best shaped lamb chops, trim
nicely and flatten, season, dip in flour and
have them ready in a frying pan with very
little fat from the roasting meats.
Mash some very green cooked peas
through a seive, season with butter and
white pepper, drop a pear shaded spoon-
ful of this green puree in each individual
dish, shape and smooth it a little, iry
(saute) the lamb chops, lay one on top of
the puree, press down slightly, pour a
spoonful of light brown sauce around the
base in the dish.
673 Scrambled Sweetbreads in
Pastry Borders.
Small and fragmentary sweetbreads
that cannot be sliced can be used this
way. Cut them in dice, put in a frying
pan with butter and eggs, salt, pepper,
scramble same as eggs, not too dry, add
a squeeze of lemon juice and little minced
Roll out scraps of pie paste, cut out
crescent shapes with a scolloped cake
cutter and bake them. Serve the sweet-
breads in flat dishes with pastry crescents
at each end.
y 2 pound bread crumbs minced fine-
about 4 cups.
^ pound chopped suet i cup.
6 ounces raisins or currants i cup.
Same of chopped apples.
Nutmeg about ft grated.
Mix the above together dry, then beat
up in another bowl :
A eggs.
6 tablespoons milk or water.
3 tablespoons sugar.
Minced lemon peel, or a little extract
if at hand.
Stir all well together; tie up in a pud-
ding cloth and boil 4 hours. Serve with
hard sauce or any other plum pudding
sauce.
676 Raspberry Butter Sauce.
Make hard sauce in the uiual manner
(No. 177 ;) and stir in enough of the f yrup
from scarlet raspberries to color and and
flavor it.
674 Dried Lima Beans.
The dried are better than the canned.
They are not hard to cook either. Soak a
cupful in water a few hours and boil about
an hour. Drain offand season in the same
way as peas, that is, sometimes with cream
sauce, sometimes with butter only or,
with small pieces of bacon or salt pork
stewed in them. Should they prove to
be of a sample difficult to boil soft add a
small piece of baking soda to the water
they are boiled in.
677 White Cocoanut Custard.
There is a most excellent white cocoa-
nut mixture at No. 163; but takes up
more time than this to make.
For this proceed as if making custard
pie, using all whites and ^counting 2
whites equal to one egg; which will be:
3 cups milk.
i cup white of eggs 10 or 12 whites.
y z cup sugar.
i heaping cup cocoanut.
i teaspoon lemon extract.
Beat up, fill 2 paste-lined pie pans and
bake slowly.
Meringue (or fi ost) them over when they
are nearly done ; stirring in a little rasp-
berry syrup to color the frosting pink and
dredge granulated sugar on the surface
before baking.
675 Eve's Pudding.
It is a good sort of boiled plum pud-
ding, not so rich and heavy ; is cinnamon
colored when made right. It is well worth
while to weigh the ingredients as they are
uncertain things to measure.
678 Trouble with the Ice Cream.
A little party of four ladies from the
Trulirural House came over in a boat im-
mediately after dinner. Wanted to know
of the manager whether really and truly,
you know, we have ice cteam every day.
Said they never were so disappointed .
the Trulirural only makes ice cream once
a week, that is on Sunday, and after all
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
when it was made it proved to be only
frozen buttermilk full of lumps of butter.
These four are the elders remaining^of
the party that came over serenading
about ten days ago. They have taken
rooms and will move over before supper.
I know how that ice cream trouble oc-
curred ; saw the same mishap at Bass-
wood City. There vras a young fellow of
a too sanguine disposition struggling
ak-n^ with a restaurant that did not pay,
buoyed up by ihe visions of wealth he
was going to realize during the approach-
ing summer by making ice cream. Be-
ing consulted, I advised the purchase of
only one freezer, or, if he must have two,
to get a 4-quart and a 6-quart size.
Young man thought I was surely jesting
and sent off for a 4-gallon and a lo-gal-
lon. On the first balmy day that fore-
tokened the arrival of gentle spring he in-
vited all his acquaintances to a treat of the
first luscious ice cream of the season; his
own make ; the first he had ever made,and
after all it proved a delusion and for him
a mortification that he never recovered
from. It was buttermilk and butter
frozen. Such a thing could not happen
to a person who might not care whether
the ice cream were not good or indiffer-
ent, but this party was too solicitous,
whipped or churned the cream to make
it foamy, and increase the bulk when the
temperature was just right for "butter to
come" quickly. If the young man had
had freezers to buy that afternoon he
would have been content with a i -quart
and a 2-quart, for he took a sudden dis-
gust at the ice cream business. Pour
your cream into the freezer, sweeten and
flavor it and freeze without further prep-
aration, but after it is frozen then the
more it is beaten the better it will be and
"butter won't come" at that temperature.
Supper.
Oatmeal (3 cups raw, 4 cents.)
Broiled whitefish (4 Ibs, net, and j Ib,
butter, 45 cents.)
Beefsteak (7 orders, i Ib, loin net, 15
cents.)
Cold meats (8 orders, charged dinner.)
Potatoes (from dinner, and baked, 4
cents.)
French rolls (30; 12 cents.)
Waffles (No. 679; 3 qts, 24, and lard to
bake 6; 30 cents.)
Crackers and milk (crackers, 5 cents.)
Cherries, fresh ripe (2 qts, 20 cents.)
Cocoanut cookies (without eggs, and
other cake, 15 cents.)
Cream 30. milk 24, syrup 16, butter 20.
Coffee, tea, sugar 22, bread 6.
Total, $2 68; 34 persons; 8 cents a
plate.
679 WafflesYeast Kaised.
6 cups flour i^ oounds.
2 large cups milk or water.
2-cent cake compressed yeast.
y* cup melted butter or lard.
4 or 5 eggs, or yolks left over.
Salt.
Dissolve the yeast in the milk (or water)
lukewarm; stir up all to a thick batter
i and beat it well with a large egg whip or
1 spoon. Let rise in a moderately warm
place about 4 hours, beat up again half
an hour before baking time. It you use
potato yeast a cupful will be required.
If mixed at 2 o'clock in summer the bat-
ter will be ready to bake at 6.
Anyone who has made muffins out of
the roll dough as at No. 582; can take the
same advantage making waffle batter,
using about 4 cups of roll dough, warm
milk to thin it down like batter cakes and
the enriching ingredients the same as in
this receipt. It will be ready to bake in
an hour after, if warm.
Any kind of batter cake mixture can
be baked in waffle irons if they are in
good order and not burnt, and waffles
can be made without eggs if the same as
batter cakes, but when they stick to the
irons the remedy is to add an egg or two,
and waffles without eggs cannot be baked
in much haste but must have time and
dry out of the irons. Syrup or sugar in
the batter causes them to bake brown.
It is a vast improvement and prevents
sticking to beat the batter very thor-
oughly.
Make the waffle irons hot, put in a tea-
spoonful of melted lard and turn over,
pour batter in each compartment, shut
up and bake both sides. Waffles are
known only by the name of wafers in
some places.
680 Cocoanut Cookies without tggs.
The same as No. 64 5 ; but, before all
SAM FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
the flour is in add a cup (4 oz.) of com-
mon bulk, or new grated cocoanut.
681 Good Fruit Cake without Eggs.
1 small cup sugar 6 ounces.
y^ cup butter 4 ounces.
2 cups milk or water a pint.
2 heaped teaspoons baking powder.
5 cups flour ij^ pounds.
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon.
i teaspoon each cloves and allspice.
i or 2 cups raisins and the same of cur-
rants. Cut the raisins in halves, dust
them and currants with flour. Mix up
the cake the usual way by stirring butter,
sugar and milk together first. Frost over
when baked with frosting made without
eggs, No. 635.
Breakfast.
July 19.
Raspberries and cherries (2 qts, 18
cents.)
Cracked wheat (2 cups, 3 cents.)
Beefsteak (9 orders, i% Ibs. net, 20
cents.)
Mutton chops (6 orders, i Ib, 13 cents.)
Liver and bacon (n orders, i^ Ibs,
15 cents.)
Ham and eggs (6 orders, 12 egg 15,
12 oz, ham, net 15 30 cents.)
Potatoes, Saratoga chips and baked
(7 cents.)
Corn bread (with 3 cups meal, 2
eggs, 2 yolks, etc., 18 orders, 12 cents.)
French rolls (30 rolls, 13 cents.)
Butter 20 oz, 25, syrup 5, bread 6.
Cream 3 pts, 30, milk, buttermilk 2
gallons 24.
Coffee 12, tea 3, sugar 12.
Total, $2 48; 34 persons; little over 7
cents a plate.
682 Saratoga Cbip Potatoes.
Shave raw potatoes into the thinnest
possible slices, drop a a few at a time
into a saucepan of hot lard and let fry to
a deep yellow color. Drain them well
keep hot in a colander set in a pan
sprinkle with fine salt. They curl up
like shavings if sliced thin enough. No
really necessary to dry each slice on a
owel before frying, although it has been
lone at some places of great repute.
Busy day in the kitchen and dinner
must stand back and make itself small,
'ruit is very abundantand cheap and the
lostess and that one of her hired girls
hat has the biggest arms are twisting and
squeezing currants and raspberries in
strong t9wels expressing the juice to boil
down with equal weight of sugar to make
elly. It is a pressing business which
nakes the girl red in the face, as pressing
might be expected to do, and the land-
ady herself has her lips curiously set as
she says she is "afraid somebody will be
very much annoyed by their putting up
r ruit in the kitcken, but ."
I don't know what the final but, was in-
tended to mean, unless it was :
"But when she will she will, yru may
depend on't,
And when she won't she won't, and
there's an end on't."
However, the landlady is very kindly
disposed and interested, as this is Mr.
Farewell's birthday, and a little supper is
in preparation to celebrate the anniver-
sary. The cakes are already ornamented
with initials and dates on them as large
as Ufe and wreathed with roses, but care-
fully hidden away to guard against spring-
ing the surprise too soon. The chickens
are already boiling for salad, Lnd the
manager went to the depot this time un-
der heavy injunctions not to forget the
lemons. Mrs. Farewell also, made
a special request of me that the frosting
on the cakes be of such a nature that it
can be sliced evenly with the cake itself,
whether the slices be thick or thin ; not
break off in the annoying way of their
town confectioner's cakes as soon as the
cake is cut. Requests like these are im-
perial orders and must be obeyed, and
"Our praises are our wages. (Shakes-
peare.)
But, Mary! It is time now to set your
preserving kettle away off the stove until
after dinner; it would break my heart to
see you all starving to death at one
o'clock precisely.
Dinner.
Soup Scotctf barley broth (6 qts, 20.
cents.)
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
Trout a la Bechamel (No. 684; 4 Ibs
gross, and sauce, 42 cents.)
Boiled corned beef and cabbage (i Ib,
beef, 10 cents.)
Roast beef (not in demand, some from
previous day enough.)
Spring lamb (4 Ibs, net, 48 cents.)
Stuffed shoulder mutton (No. 686 ;s Ibs,
net, boned, and stuffing, 35 cents.)
Macaroni and tomatoes, Italienne (No.
*>5 J Vz Ib, macaroni, J^ can tomato, 2
ozs, cheese, etc., 14 cents for about 14
orders.)
Summer beets in sauce (5 beets and
sauce, 6 cents.)
Cabbage (2 heads, 10 cents.)
Onions in cream (5 cents.)
Potatoes browned, mashed (8 cents.)
Baked corn starch pudding, red cherry
syrup for sauce (No. 689; 24 cents.)
Raspberry pie, apple pie (used canned
apples, 3 pies, 30 cents.)
Vanilla ice cream (3 pts, cream, etc.,
40 cents.)
Angel food cake (No. 2 ; doubled, 25
cents.)
Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, condi-
ments, pickles 3$.
Butter 10, milk 24, cream 10, coffee,
tea, sugar 16.
Total, $4 r2j 34 persons; about 12
cents a plate.
683 Scotch Barley Broth.
Fake the trimmings of the lamb, tne
shank, shoulder hone and neck of mut-
ton, and add spare pieces of other meats;
boil them in eight quarts of water from
early morning until 10 or 1 1 o'clock. Boil
6 tablespoonfuls of barley for 6 quarts of
soup in a separate saucepan.
Strain off the broth, skim well, put in 2
cupfuls of turnip, carrott and onion cut
in small dice, some chopped parsley, salt
and pepper, the barley already cooked
and rinsed off in hot water; boil till the
vegetables are done, thicken very slightly
and add a cupful of lean meat from the
neck of mutton, also cut in dice.
mel ; because that is the name of the
sauce, it is always a cream-white dish.
If you put your fish to bake in plain
milk or cream at fiibt, exacting to thicken
the sauce when the fish is done, you find
that it has been curdled by the gelatine
from the fish and has an unsightly ap-
pearance. Make the cream sauce first,
of rich milk, a little minced onion, butter
and flour, pour it boiling hot over the fish
in a baking pan; bake about 3^ hour
basting twice ; at last add a little cream
and chopped parsley. Serve in small
plates with Parisienne potatoes plain
steamed in the same.
684 Trout a la Bechamel.
Another name for it is trout baked in
cream. As previously stated at No. 662,
any dish of fish or meat that is in cream
sauce is allowably designated a la Becha-
685 Corned Beef and Cabbage,
The beef having been well corned, the
next requisite to make it a^ooddish is to
give it plenty of time to boil tender. The
cabbage should be boiled separately and
chopped and seasoned at last with the fat
from the beef boiler. If cooked together
the beef left to slice cold is too strongly
flavored. Serve the cabbage in a flat
dish with a slice of beef on top.
686 Stuffed Shoulder of Mutton.
Take out the bone, lay a thin covering
of well-seasoned bread stuffing upon the
meat; roll up, tie with twine and cook
the same as rolled brisket of veal ; No.
171.
687 Beets in Butter Sauce.
Beets should not be cut before cooking
as they lose their juice and color. Boil
about an hour, rub off the skin in cold
water, cut up into a saucepan, add 2 cups
water, 5^ cup vinegar, half as much but-
ter, salt, and flour thickening to make a
moderately thick sauce when it boils.
688 Onions in Cream Sauce.
Boil in plenty of water and pour the
water away entirely, as it is dark colored.
Make sufficient cream sauce well salted
in another saucepan and put the onions
in.
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
689-B.ked Corn Starch Pudding
6 cups milk 3 pints.
6 heaped tablespoons starch 7 ounces.
3 do do sugar.
J^ cup butter 2 ounces.
5 or 6 yolks (left over from making
white cake.)
Flavoring extract, pinch salt.
Boil the milk with the sugar in it
which prevents burning at bottom. Mix
up the starch with a little cold milk and
then some hot, pour quickly into the boil-
ing milk in the kettle and almost im-
mediately, or, as soon as fairly mixed,
take it off the fire. u Beat in the butter, the
yolks beaten up with a spoonful of milk,
flavor then, bake in a pan or earthen dish
about 20 minutes. Too much cooking
causes starch pudding to turn watery.
Serve with sauce made of part fruit juice,
sugar, water and starch simmered clear
and bright.
Supper.
Oatmeal (3 cups, 5 cents.)
Beefsteak (12 orders, 20 cents.)
CalPs liver breaded (12 orders, 18
cents )
Broiled bacon (2 orders, 4 cents.)
Codfish in cream (4 orders, 5 cents.)
Cold meats (Y 2 Ib, charged dinner.)
Potatoes French fried and baked (8
cents.)
Rolls (30, 12 cents.)
French coffee cakes (No. 262; made
30, 20 cents.)
Pears in syrup (2 cans California, 50
cents.)
Cake, cookies, ginger snaps (15 cents.)
Milk, cream 44; butter 22.
Coffee, tea, sugar 21 ; bread 6.
Total, $2 50; 35 persons; little over 7
cents a plate.
690 A Birthday Party Supper Pre-
pared without Eggs.
Gotten up without using eggs, to show
that it can be done ; and that if it be wel
done the party will never discover any
difference.
MENU.
Cold Roast Chicken garnished with Jelly.
Sandwich Rolls with Potted Tongue.
Pickles. Lettuce.
Lobster Salad,
all's Foot Jelly (Lemon and Raspberry Flavors. ,
Panachee Ice Cream.
Florentine Meringue. Chocolate Layer Cake
Birthday Fruit Cake, Ornamented.
White Citron Cake. Neapolitan Cake.
Nuts. Raisins.
Lemonade. Coffee.
This was for a party of 20 persons who
did not really need to eat an extra meal ;
t was a supper table for a social family
gathering and so provided for, the quanti-
ses would not be sufficient for a calcula-
tion for a paid supper.
Cost of material :
Roasted breasts only of 4 chickens
equal 2 chickens, 50 cents.
Savory jelly for decoration, i quart, 25
cents.
20 Sandwiches of potted tongue and
butter, 20 cents.
Lobster salad, lettuce and pickles, 25
cents.
Calf s foot jelly 3 pints, 45 cents.
Ice cream, 2 quarts, 70 cents.
Florentine meringue, 15 cents.
Chocolate layer cake, 15 cents.
Fruit cake ornamented, weight 5 Ibs.,
70 cents.
Other cakes small amounts, 10 cents.
Nuts and raisins about 3 Ibs., 60 cents.
Lemonade iced, 45 cents.
Coffee, cream and sugar, 15 cents.
Total, $4 65 ; 20 persons; over 23 cents
a plate.
691 Cold Chicken with Aspic Jelly.
The supper being for 20 persons, took
4 large spring chickens and of these used
only the breasts to roast cut off raw, and
the rest of the chickens reserved for a
side dish for next day's dinner. After
roasting in a small pan about half an
hour set them away to get cold, and at
night sliced thinly enough for 16 individ-
ual dishes to be set at intervals along the
table, ornamented with colored jelly, and
the remainder kept in reserve in case of
further orders.
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
692 Calf's Foot 0' Aspic or Savory
Jelly.
Colored jelly in ornamental shapes was
the distinguishing characteristic of Car-
erne's system in cookery, particularly as
he employed it to produce gorgeous effects
of light and color in the elaborately dec-
orated set tables and grand banquets of
his time ; classic figures in wax, m waxen
leaves and borders and scenic designs are
.the distinguishing characteristic of the
later system originated (or t rather re-
suscitated, for there is nothing new) by
the court cooks at Vienna, and fostered
and encouraged by the emperor and em-
presj themselves, as if they would fain
have an original system for their own
court and following, not borrowed from
the French.
The extent of the impression made by
Careme upon the English cooks and con-
fectioners, then, might almost be meas-
ured by the frequency of the dishes in
aspic and the offers of brilliant sweet
jeflies among the confections for sale in
the shops; trie prevalence of the German
methods by the frequency of the waxen
Neptunes, dolphins, forests and flowers
worked on the stands which hold up the
dishes at any elaborate exhibition of
culinary skill. The essential part of the
cookery, that which affects the eatable
part ofthe dishes cannot in the nature of
things differ much, it is only a divergence
of externals and it has to be said of the
dishes in jelly that they are at least all
eatable, the savory ornaments even more
so perhaps than the meat itself.
If there could be an American dis-
tinctive style it would be marked by the
use of fruit jellies, cranberry sauce and
jelly with game, apples, pears and peaches
in compotes and pickles sweet as well as
sour, such things as Careme had an
inklingof when he built up his "supremes
of truits" pyramidal forms of fruits pre-
served whole and decorated with straw-
ernes and green angelica.
But the simple style of individual ser-
vice now so universally employed while
it brings into use a great number of small
dishes, glasses ana silver-ware almost
precludes the use of any method of orna-
mentation beyond such borders and
sprinklings as may be formed in the act
of dishing the food.
693 Fo Make Calf's Foot Jelly.
For reasons named in the preceding
article if in England or France we write
jelly it is understood first to mean gela-
tine jelly, whether savory like the jelly o
head-cheese or^sweet and wine flavored,
but in the United States it is taken to
mean jellied fruits. So if we find our-
selves at some country resort where the
landlady and all her maidservants are
busy making currant, gooseberry, rasp-
berry and apple jellies to put away for
winter use and we have to make at the
same time ornamental clear jelly of Car-
erne's own sort with which to decorate a
birthday supper table, we must call it
calf s foot jelly, lest there be an impres-
sion that we have been surreptitiously
dipping into the wrong kettles.
To make the jelly really of calves feet
1 as it used to be forty or fifty years ago,
you first put on 2 feet in 4 quarts of
water, simmer for 6 or 8 hours, and the
feet will be so nearly dissolved that the
liquor that remains which will measure
about 2 quarts when strained off will
set in strong jelly when cold. It has
then to be freed from fat, sweetened,
spiced and clarified in all respects the
same as the gelatine jelly of Nos. 465 and
466; that is if to be a lemon or other sweet
jelly, but if to be savory jelly it will be
seasoned something like a savory dish of
meat*
694 How to Serve Colored Jellies
Five Ways.
1. Pour the jelly (No. 465 ;) when made
into soup plates or bright pans quite
shallow. Set on ice. Cut it in diamond
shapes when set, and put one piece of
eacn color in small stem glasses, get
three glass cake stands, set one on tl e
other, they being of three sizes ; set the
glasses of jelly upon them for a pyramid
of jelly for the center of the table.
2. Cut the jelly in diamonds or squares
and serve in ice cream saucers individu-
ally with cake.
3. Pour the jelly into small custard
cups, or individual ornamental jelly
moulds or other small form, run a pen-
knife around to loosen and shake out
the form of jelly on to the Individual ice-
cream plate.
SAW FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
76
4. Cool the jelly in the ordinary stamped
jelly moulds, dip in warm water when
wanted, turn out the shape and place
on large dishes along the table, to
be served with a spoon or the people to
help each other.
5. Cool the jelly in the m large orna-
mental border moulds which have a
hollow middle. When perfectly C9ld
turnout the border of jelly first clipping
the mould a moment in warm water <>n
to a cake stand and fill the center cavity
with whipped cream.
695 To Make Savory or Aspic Jelly.
Aspic is the French cooks' name for
it. It is the jelly formed by boiling meat
down till the liquor will set when cold, the
ielly, for example of head cheese, or of
boiled chickens when the liquor has nearly
all boiled away,and if it is the intention to
make jelly of such liquor an extra calfs
foot or pig's foot or two will be thrown in
at the beginning of the boiling and make
the liquor stronger. This being the jelly
in the rough state seasoned as soup
would be to make it taste good and relish-
in order to change its appearance
from dull gray into an article of sparkling
transparency it is necessary to clarify it
by boiling white of eggs and lemon juice
in it and straining it through a flannel
jelly bag.
The making ot savory jelly is not an
abstruse and foreign affair, but anyone
who takes pleasure in such things finding
at hand some meat liquor that has set in
jelly firm enough to cut with a knife can
clarify it and use it to set off a luncheon
or supper table in a way that is by no
means common.
But when there is no meat jelly already
formed make some by dissolving an ounce
of sheet gelatine in a guart of good soup
stock, season it nicely, let it get quite
cold to remove the grease, then melt and
clarify it as for sweet jelly at No. 465.
Make different tints by adding burnt
sugar dissolved in boiling water for amber
and brown, and cochineal or beet juice
for pink and red.
Extra fine jelly, more brilliant than is
ever seen in the restaurant windows, is
made by putting it through the clarifying
process twice, allowing a little in the
measure for the inevitable loss of quan-
tity in the repeated boiling and filtering ;
and a correspondingly enhanced flavor is
obtained by adding a proportion of
sherry.
695 Ornamenting with Aspic Jally
1. Place thin slices of breast of chicken
or turkey in individual platters. Chop
some jelly quite small, put it in a paper
cornet, snip off the end and squeeze the
jelly through in a cord around the edge
of the dish or in patterns the same as the
ornamental frosting of a cake.
2. Chop some of the brightest jelly
not very small, and sprinkle about a
teaspoonful over the sliced meat or
around upon a salad.
3. Cool the jelly in plates quite shal-
low and when set cut, it in triangular
shapes, large or small in proportion to
the size of dishes to be ornamented, and
set the pieces in order around the edge
ot the otish.
4. Pour the jelly upon the thin sliced
meat in large flatter, just enough to
cover, set it on ice and when it has be-
come firm cut out the slices with the
coating of jelly upon them and ornament
the edges with minced jelly and parsley.
5. Take a solid boneless piece of
cooked and pressed meat like head
cheese, pressed corned beef or tongue,
boned turkey or chicken or liver pate and
put it in a mould or pan that is a little
too large for it, fill up the mould with
melted jelly there should be a quarer
inch or more space for the jelly on all
sides and underneath make it quite
cold, turn put by first dipping the mould
a moment in warm water and then slice
the meat with border of jelly adhering to
each slice.
697 To Clarify Jelly without Eggs.
Use lean beef chopped fine, about 4
ounces to a quart. This is the way ^ fine
consommes are made clear, and it is
as good for jelly. Mix the minced beef
thoroughly with a little cold water, stir it
into the jelly after it has been boiled
once, (without any white of eggs) then
boil again and strain through the jelly
bag. It is the albumeu in beef that has
the effect in clearing the fluid it is boiled
77
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
in.
"But won't it make it taste?" somebody
says, as the mineed beef goes into the
sweet jelly.
"No ; only like calf s foot jelly ;" indeed
it is- an improvement, for all gelatine has
a slightly unpleasant flavor which the
fresh beef removes. Of course if white
of eggs can be had as well as not there is
no need to resort to the substitute, yet,
it is often vjry convenient to know how
to do without.
698 Tongue Sandwiches.
Make dough as for French rolls, after
the last kneading roll it out extremely
thin, brush the sheet all over with melted
butter and double it upon itself; roll it
again and when it has stood a minute or
two to lose the tendency to draw out of
shape cut out with a biscuit cuttei , place
in pans, brush over with butter, rise
nearly an hour and bake. These are flat
round rolls that will pull apart when
done. Spread one hall with butter the
other with potted tongue and put them
together. Or, use potted tongue with
plain sliced bread.
699 Potted Tongue.
Boil a corned tongue 3 hours, if a beef
tongue, or until tender. Dip it in cold
water and peel off the skin. Cut up and
mince small, then pound it to a paste.
Melt two large cupfuls of butter and pre-
pare a teaspoonful of mixed ground
spices, half mace and the rest cloves,
nutmeg and cayenne. Add the spices to
the tongue, and a little salt besides, and
most of the clear part of the melted bui-
ter, and pound it all together. Press it
into cups or small jars tightly to exclude
the air and pour the rest of the clear but-
ter on top. Keep covered in a cool place.
700 Lobster Salad without May-
onalse.
Cut white heart lettuce in shreds and
across quite fine ; break about the same
amount of lobster in small pieces but
without mashing it, season both with
celery, celery-salt, salt, cayenne, oil and
vinegar enough to moisten, mix together,
serve on individual dishes ornamented
with cooked beets stamped out in shapes.
Can be made likewise with finely minced
cabbage with some thick cream, salt and
pepper stirred in and the lobster on top*
701 Panachee, or Tri-colored eel-
Cream.
The same as Neapolitan, No. 227;
which see for directions and use of
molds. The bill-of-fare writers get tired of
and having the same thing over and over
instead of repeating Neapolitan they call
it panachce, it being like panachee jelly,
which is of three colors in layers, and
named after the tn-colored feather \vhich
used to be worn in the hat as the sign or
badge of the French republican.
1 o save trouble on the occasion of this
party supper, the 2 quarts of white ice
cream frozen with the dinner cream in
the morning was divided, and half of it
colored with caramel and cinnamon and
frozen again in a small pail set in a wash-
tub of small ice and salt. The red was
cherry juice taken from the preserving
kettles and mixed with water, then frozen
the same way and all three kinds put in
brick moulds and packed down for 3
hours. Cost 67 cents for 3 quarts.
702 Florentine Meringue.
Roll out a sheet of puff paste thin and
cover a baking pan bottom with it, spread
jelly or preserves upon it and pake.
Whip up some meringue and mix in
chopped almonds or desiccated cocoanut
and spread that on top of the florentine,
sift sugar on top and bake. It is like the
fruit meringues in a general way but
ought to be thin, to cut in large, but flat
strips. The meringue can be made with
gelatine instead of white of eggs if so
needed.
703 Neapolitan Cake.
The new fashion for it is to make layer
cakes of three colors, white, yellow, (or
Eink) and chocolate, spread jelly and
uild up to 6 layers high ; trim tr.e edges
and ice it all over. Three kinds can be
made without eggs, by using Nos. 655 and
632 ; and making part of the latter pink
with raspberry juice. The old fashion
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
was to make pound jelly cake 6 or 8
layers high and ice it and ornament.
704 Ornamented Fruit Cake.
Cut a pound of citron in strips and add
to the mixture No. 681. Bake in a large
round mold previously lined with but-
tered paper. Put on two coats of icing,
a border around, and if for a birthday
party put up the initials of the person's
name in letters of lace-work icing 6 or 8
inches high according to plan to be found
described in succeeding pages.
705 Cake Frosting That Will Not
Break Off.
Our birthday cake was required to be
cut in pieces and sent hither and thither,
a piece or two to Basswood City and some
more to Lakeport, and it would have
been extremely annoying had the frosting
all broke away on the first attempt to cut
it, and yet that is just what the common
raw icing will always do if made with
white of eggs .alone. But if you dissolve
a little gelatine in hot water in a cup,
have it like thicfc mucilage, then use it
and one or two whites of eggs mixed in
to beat up the sugar with; the frosting
will stay on the cake and cut as easy as
a piece of cheese. For a rule, take :
2 tablespoons dissolved gelatine.
2 whites of eggs.
2 cups sugar.
Put all in a bowl and stir with a wooden
paddle. To making icing or frosting
easily it is best to have it as thick as
dough at first, it soon turns thin as the
sugar dissolves, when it becomes too
thick with long stirring it can be reduced
with warm water by the teaspoon ful, or
with white of egg.
A few drops of acetic acid, or lemon
juice, or cream tartar added to icing
whitens and stiffins it. Add lemon or
vanilla extract to flavor.
706 Boiled Icing, That Will Not
Break.
1 y* cups sugar.
4 tablespoons water.
2 whites of eggs.
Set the water and sugar on to b9il,have
it just like making candy. Whisk the
whites to a stiff froth, pour the boiling
sugar inio the whites, stir up and spread
on the cake immediately. If boiled
enough it will set firm as soon as cold,
if not set it in a warm place to dry.
707 Chocolate Boiled Icing without
Eggs.
i pound sugar 2 cups.
% teacup water.
4 ounces common chocolate, grated
i cup.
Boil all together almost to candy point,
flavor with vanilla when partly cooled,
beat a short time, spread over the cake.
708 Chocolate Icing Not BoiM
1 pound sugar 2 cups either granu-
lated or powdered will do.
6 whites of eggs.
4 ounces grated common chocolate
i cup.
2 teaspoons vanilla extract.
Put the sugar and whites of eggs to-
gether into a bowl and beat rapidfy with
a wooden spoon or paddle,in a cool place
for about ten minutes, or until you have
good white frosting. Set the grated
chocolate on the side of the stove to melt
merely by the heat, without anything
added to it. Pour it to the frosting in
the bowl, add flavor, beat up and use to
cover cakes or spread between layers.
Speaking of cake glaze and_ icings,
however, there are two young friends of
mine, the head and second baker at the
Gondolier-Grand Hotel, at Firefly Grove,
who have their ambition aroused even
now while I am writing this, trying how
many and how choice a lot of small cakes
and trifles they can send in, in the silver
baskets daily, and are much pleased with
the soft glazes or icings of the following
receipts, which they found in the Ameri-
can Pastry Cook. They find a number
of uses for them and are glad of having
so many kinds and colors. Another
friend, a grizzly bearded old partner up
north was using them one day, and he
remarked: "Hal that's what we call
bongdong, eh? you know?"
79
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
"No-^hat is not quite fondant, al
though it is as good for these uses. To
make fondant you must have a saccharo-
meter, kettle and marble slab, etc., but
these fondant icings a boy or girl can
make with a tin pan, a spoon and an egg
whip."
709 Yellow Glaze or Boiled Icing.
This should be the first to be tried as
it is of less consequence whether the
sugar is boiled to the exact point for
yolks of eggs than for whites.
2 cups granulated sugar a pound.
y^ teacup water 6 tablespoons.
6 yolks of eggs.
Flavoring extract.
Boil the sugar and water for 5 minutes,
or until a drop in cold water sets ir
candy so hard it can be hardly flattenec
between the finger and thumb. Have
the yolks slightly beaten ready in a bowl
pour the bubbling syrup to them quickl>
while you keep beating with an egg
beater. Set over the fire for a minute or
two and keep beating while it cooks a
little more, flavor and pour it over sheets
of cake, or dip small cakes in it. If the
sugar was boiled enough it \vill set hare
and dry as soon as cold. Is improved by
being beaten in the saucepan untii
partly cooled, and the flavoring should
go in the very last thing to avoid loss by
boiling out.
710 White G aze or Boiled Icing.
2 cups sugar.
6 tablespoons water.
4 whites of eggs.
Boil the sugar and water until a drop
in cold water sets in brittle candy. Have
the whites slightly beaten in a bowl, pour
the boiling sugar to them while you beat
very rapidly. Set over the fire again
until it boils, taking care to keep it from
burning. Then set it on ice and beat
711-Rose Glaze or Boiled Icing.
. The same as the preceding with color-
ing to make it pink. Cherry juice or
cochineal can be used.
or
with an egg beater until it is perfectly
white and creamy like/<?/wfo#/,and begins
to set. Ice cakes with it or dip small
cakes in, such as sponge drops, holding
them on a fork. This is quick and easy
after the first trial ; the point is to boil
the sugar to "the crack, which takes a
712 Chocolate Glaze or Boiled Icing.
i pound sugrr.
& cup water 7 tablespoons.
3 ounces grated common chocolate a
cupful.
3 eggs.
Vanilla flavoring.
Boil the sugar, water and chocolate
together until a drop in the water sets in
candy. Beat the eggs and add the boil-
ing candy to them with rapid beating.
Dinner.
July 20.
Soup Consomme Brunoise (5 qts, 30
cents.)
Fillets of trout, Spanish style (3 Ibs,
gross, potatoes and sauce, 35 cents.)
Potatoes Brabant.
Boiled meats (no orders, left over for
supper, etc.)
Roast beef (2 Ibs, 25 cents.)
Roast pork (2 Ibs, 22 cents.)
Roast veal with dressing (2 Ibs, and
dressing, 30 cents.)
Epigramme of lamb, sauce Trianon
(2 Ibs, and sauce, 30 cents.)
Potato salad (5 cents.)
String beans 5, butter beans 5, cabbage
2 heads 10 tomatoes 15, potatoes 843
Raspberry drop dumplings with sauce
30 dumplings and sauce, 17 cents.)
Custard pie (2 with i qt, milk, 8 eggs
and sugar, 20 cents.)
Lemon sherbet (No. 179; 2 qts, before
reezinsr, 20 cents.)
Angel food cake (baked thin, frosted
and sliced, 22 cents.)
^Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, con-
diments (average, 35 cents.)
Milk (9 quarts, 27 cents.)
Cream 10, coffee 10, tea 3, sugar 4,
mtter 10, bread 6.
SAW FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
80
Total t $4 04; 35 persons; u& cents a
plate.
713 Consomme Brunoise.
5 quarts clear soup stock.
y<z Ib, chopped lean beef.
2 whites of eggs to clear it.
i cup green cooked peas.
i cup carrot and turnip and leek and
celery if you have them cut in. smallest
dice.
r teaspoon extract of meat.
Draw off the stock free from grease,
put in the beef and white of egg mixed
with some cold water and set ic on to
boil. When well boiled strain through a
napkin or tammy cloth or jelly bag. Cook
the vegetables separately, wash them off,
season the consomme with salt and cay-
enne and add meat extract (or glaze of
your own making) to color light brown,
and then the vegetables.
714 -Fillets of Trout Spanish Style.
Cook the fish this way when you have
a lot of small ones, such as brook trout,
or lake hemng. Run a knife along both
sides of the back bone and take it out.
Take the two sides, double them, the
meat side^ out wards, lay them in a but-
tered baking pan one leaning upon the
other so as to hold it in shape, and so
proceed until the pan has all it will con-
tain, one layer deep ; the boned part of
the fillets of fish being on top. Before
putting in the fish strew some finely
minced 9nion in the pan. After the fish
is in, sprinkle salt and pepper, sitt over a
little cracker meal, and pour in enough
light colored veal gravy mixed with
strained tomato, or Spanish stock sauce
(No. 784;} to half cover the fillets, and
bake light brown. Dish out of the pan
it is baked in, one fillet to each person, a
spoonful of the sauce and a few potatoes
of any baked or fried kind like the follow-
ing in the same plate.
715 Potataes, a la Brabant.
Cut raw potatoes in dice, medium size
and perfect cubes, rejecting the uneven
sides and ends. Boil them in water
drain off before they break, then, fry in
clean lard very light colored. Sprinkle
with salt and finely minced parsley,
Brabant is the name of a place a duchy.
716 Epigramme of Lamb, a la Tri-
anon.
Epigramme is the French cooks' name
for the brisket or breast of lamb. After
cutting lamb chops for breakfast there
will be three or four of these briskets on
hand. Saw them lengthwise in two, boil
for half an hour in soup stock well sea-
soned, press them between two dishes.
When cold bread thereby dipping in egg
and cracker meal, lay in a pan, pour a
little oil, clear butter or drippings over
and bake light brown. To serve : divide
in pieces about 4 9r 5 ribs wide, place a
spoonful of sauce in the dish and the meat
pressed down in it. It does not do well
to fry it after breading, the bright yel-
low-Drown of a careful bake is what
makes it a desirable entree.
7f7 Sauce Trianon.
It is a yellow sauce made of \yhite
butter sauce with yolks of eggs stirred
in to color, and speckled with minced
truffles, mushrooms, shalots and white
pepper. Add a spoonful of white wine
or little dash of lemon juice. A very
small quantity of such a sauce can be
made to fill the bill and one small truf-
fle out of a bottle and four or five
mushrooms sliced will be all that are
needed. Trianon is the name of a place
a French palace.
718 Potato Salad.
Take cold boiled potatoes, slice them
thinly so that the vinegar will penetrate.
For a bowl of sliced potatoes mince^
one good sized onion and a bunch of
parsley and throw on top, also salt and
white pepper, Pour over half cup ot
olive oil and mix all well. If you mix
all with oil this way first the parsley re-
tains its green color, which vinegar
used first takes away. Pour over half
cup of vinegar and mix by turning from'
one bowl to another shortly before serv-
COOKING fOR PROFIT.
ing. A pint cupful is enough at such
a house as this with no expense worth
counting but a few spoonfuls of oil,
but where there is lunch served potato
salad is a leading dish and not a cheap
one because oil must be used plenti-
fully.
719 Raspberry Dumplings
Eggs cr Powder.
without
When rolls are made in the morning
instead of making loaves of bread of the
dough that remains keep it cold until the
middle of the forenoon. Then roll it
out on the table to a thin sheet as ^ thin
as the edge of a dinner plate. Cut it all
in squares,about 2^ inches,place a table-
spoonful of fruit in the middle of .each
and lap the corners over the top. Pinch
the edges together a little, set the dump-
lings in a greased pan and also brush over
the tops with a little melted lard or but-
ter. Let rise about 45 minutes, like rolls.
Have a large pan of boiling water a
baking pan will do, drop the dumplings
in and cook 20 minutes either on top of
the stove or. in the oven. Serve with
sauce, either No. 70 ; or, hard sauce or
cream.
D nner.
July 21.
Soup Green corn (6 qts, 30 cents.)
Boiled muskalonge, esg sauce (3 Ibs,
sauce and potatoes, 33 cents.)
Potatoes Hollandaise.
Boiled smoked tongue and corned beef
(few orders, 12 cents.)
Roast beef (i rib, 2 Ibs, 26 cents.)
Roast lamb, mint sauce (5 Ibs, 60
cents.)
Fricassee of chicken, Parisienne (2
chickens, sauce, etc., 65 cents.)
Haricot of mutton, Bourgeoise (13
cents.)
Summer cabbage 2 heads io,beets plain
stewed 2, tomatoes 12, string beans 6,
potatoes 8 38 cents.
Tapioca custard pudding (2 qts, 20
cents, with sauce, 25 cents.)
Cherry and raspberry pie (2 pies, 16
cents.)
White Mountain ice cream (36 cents.)
Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, condi-
ments (average, 35 cents.)
Bread, butter 10, coffee, tea, sugar 14.
Milk 24, cream 10.
Total, $4 47 ; 35 persons ; nearly 13
cents a plate.
720 Green Corn Soup.
Any good simple soup not specially
flavored may have grated corn and some
milk added to it and will be generally
acceptable. For a rule for 30 to 35 per-
sons take:
5 quarts soup stock.
i or 2 quarts milk.
i can of corn or a quart of green coin
grated.
i tablespoon minced onion.
*A Ib, salt pork.
Boil a carrot, turnip and onion with the
meat, bones and water that makes the
stock. Cut the pork in dice and fry it light
brown, and then pour away the fat, boil
up the milk in the pork pan to obtain the
flavor of the frying, and pour all back
into the stock pot. Strain into a clean
saucepan, add the minced onion, the
corn mashed or grated, boil up and sea-
son, and sprinkle a little parsley finely
minced.
721 Boiled Muskallonge.
The muskallonge is fish like the pick-
erel. It is convenient sometimes to nave
another name even for the same fish for
the purposes of a bill of fare. Mark off
the nsh in individual portions. Have the
water ready boiling, put in a bay leaf, an
onion and 4 cloves and salt and piece of
lemon if at hand, drop in the fish, boil
gently at the side of the range not over
alf an hour. Serve with egg sauce or
other kinds suitable for boiled fish, and
a spoonful of potato.
722 Potatoes, Hollandaise.
Cut raw potatoes in quarters lenghtwise
as if to be fried, then trim to a rough
kidney shape, boil in salted water, take
off before they break, drain, and sprinkle
with parsley, melted butter, salt and
lemon juice. Serve with the fish on the
same plate.
There used to be a Dutch kidney potato
of small size but much esteemed, which
these cut potatoes are intended to imitate
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
and, like those of Holland, are to be
simply cooked.
723 Fricassee of Chicken, Farisienne.
Cut tender chickens in joints, pepper
and salt and roll in flour, either fry or
bake brown using enough oil, clarified
butter or drippings to baste with. Make
yellow fricassee sauce that is, white
sauce with yolk of.egg added and lemon
juice and cayenne, and prepare a pint
cupful of Parisienne potatoes. Serve
sauce in the dish, piece of chicken in it,
potatoes around and, if wished, decorate
further with button mushrooms same size
as the potatoes.
Fricassee, is the French word for
fry, and seems to have meant fried
chicken with sauce at first, but fricassees
are variously put up. The term "Parisi-
enne," is one of the convenient designa-
tions that, like "a la Russe," means but
little and does no harm. Two chickens
can be cut into 28 or 30 pieces.
724 Haricot of Mutton, Bourgeoise.
Haricot, is the name of a stew of meat
with vegetables in it. Bourgeoise signi-
fies that it is common in family style.
Haricots is also the French ior beans.
Cut up the breast and neck of mutton,
brown it first in a pan either in oven or
on top of stove, with frequent stirring.
Then put in a saucepan with turnip, car-
rot and onion cut in large pieces. Stew
till tender, season plainly with salt and
depper and thicken the liquor.
725 Beets Plain.
Boil the beets, peel in cold water, cut
them in dice size of cherries, season with
salt and one spoonful of roast meat fat
shaken about in them to keep them from
drying out and serve so without sauce.
726 Tapioca Custard Pudding.
i heaping cup tapioca^ pound.
6 cups milk 3 pints.
y>2, cup sugar 4 ounces.
i ounce butter small egg size.
4 eggs, or 8 yolks.
Crush the tapioca, if the large and
rough kind, put it to soak in half the milk
for 2 hours.
Boil the other half the milk with the
sugar in it, stir in the soaked tapioca, let
simmer slowly at the side or in a pan of
boiling water for half an hour, or until
the tapioca is become transparent and
well cooked. Then stir in the butter and
eggs and bake. Serve with sauce. This
makes over 2 quarts, about 24 portions,
costs 20 cents; with sauce i^ cents each
person.
Dinner.
July 22.
Soup Barley, a la Princesse (6 qts, 30
cents.)
Whitefish, a 1' Espagnole (3^ Ibs,
gross, and sauce, 35 cents.)
Julienne potatoes.
Boiled meats (nominal to fill bill, rarely
ordered.)
Roast beef (i rib, 2% Ibs, 30 cents.)
Roast lamb (4^ Ibs, 50 cents.)
Fricassee of veal, Francaise (15 orders,
i 1 /?, Ibs, with sauce, and garnishing, 25
cents.)
Brochettes of liver, Bretonne (10 or-
ders, iY 2 Ibs, 18 cents.)
Marrowfat peas 20, string beans 8 corn
i can 15 potatoes 9 60 cents.
m Boiled suet pudding, silver sauce (pud-
ding 20 sauce 1 6 36 cents.)
Covered lemon pie (No. 22; 2 pies, 16
cen ts.)
Vanilla ice cream (^ pints cream and
milk, etc., 35 cents.)
Assorted cake (15 cents.)
Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, condi-
ments (average, 35 cents. )
Milk, cream 34, butter, bread 14, cof-
fee, tea, sugar 14.
Total, $4 38; 34 persons; about 13
cents a plate.
727 Barley Soup a la Princess
Consomme a I' Orge
or
Prepare 5 quarts of clear consomme ;
boil YZ cup pearl barley separately until
well done, then wash it in a colander in
plently of water. Cut a piece of carrot
and turnip in fine dice no larger than the
barley grains and boil a few minutes,
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
strain and wash, then put barley and
vegetables in the consomme just before
time to serve. Orge, is the French name
for barley.
728-Whitefish a I' Espagnole.
Anything and every thing you may meet
with m a bill of fare that is a V Espagnole
is in brown meat sauce, either cooked in j
it or has the sauce poured over it. Fish
cooked in this way is more like meat than
in any other form. It is not a good way
with a soft kind of fish or when the sauce
is too dark. A nice veal gravy and a firm
whitefish will make a good dish. Split
the fish, as only smallportions are wanted
to be served, score oftthe portions, with-
out cutting through. Brush a little fat
over the baking 'pan, lay the fish skin
side up; cut carrot, turnip and onion
in very small dice and strew a small por-
tion in the spaces in the pan, dredge salt
and pepper and bake about 15 minutes.
Then pour in enough light colored veal
gravy or Spanish stock sauce (No. 784) to
come half way up and bake 20 minutes
longer, basting the fish with the gravy and
having some left in the pan to serve with
the fish. Send in some kind of potatoes
in the same plate.
yolks, take the sauce from the fire before
it becomes rough with curdling of the
egg and strain it over the meat. To
garnish : Cut out leaf shapes of thin
puff paste, egi* over and bake and put one
or two in each dish when served.
731 Brochette of Liver a la Bretanne.
Make thin slices of liver and equal num-
ber of bacon and cut them in squares no
much larger across than a silver quater,*
place them on sk-wers alternately, have
the skewers nearly full. Dip in egg and
cracker meal and fry light brown. Serve
729 Potatoes a la Julienne.
Choose the longest potatoes, slice them I
raw very thinly and then cut the slices in j
shreds thin as shoestrings. Fry in hot
lard, drain well, sprinkle with salt.
730 Fricasses cf Veal, Francaise.
Take veal that is not suitable for cut-
lets and cut it in square pieces, put in a
frying pan with a little oil, butter or
roast meat fat and fry (saute) pver the
fire until it is light brown. Put in water
or stock enough to cover, add a minced
onion and little grated nutmeg and let
stew until tender. Take out the pieces
of meat into another saucepan so that you
can thicken the liquor, which requires
about i spoonful of 3 our thickening and
2 yolks of eggs or according to quantity,
and add salt, pepper and juice of half a
lemmon. Immediately after adding the
minced onion light brown, adding brown
sauce, a spoonful of made mustard and
same of vinegar. Can also be fried with-
out breading and served on toast.
732 Boiled Suet Pudding.
4 cups flour a pound.
2 large cups minced suet 6 ounces.
i cup sugar y^ pound.
i large cup raisins or currants Yz
pound.
i cup milk.
i egg.
Pinch of soda and little salt.
The suet should be selected, free from
skin and meat and minced very fine. Rub
it into the flour. Put in the other in-
gredients, stii together very thoroughly.
Tie up in a pudding bag and boil 4 or 5
hours. Take up only just before it is
wanted as it is best when first taken from
the pot. Serve slices with sauce. Three
pounds costs 19 cents.
733 Silver Pudding Sauce, or Sweet
Velante.
i cup powdered sugar,
y>z cup butter.
3 whites of eggs.
3 tablespoons brandy or little flavoring
extract.
It is hard sauce (No. 177) improved by
having whipped white ot ees stirred in
while it is still soft. It should be made
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
the last thing before dinner and then kept
cold as the whites go down with standing.
734 Pound Cakes, Assorted Kinds.
4 cups sugar light weight of 2 pounds.
4 small cups butter 1% pounds.
20 eggs.
8 rounded cups flour 2 pounds good
weight.
Warm the butter and sugar to soften,
then stir them to a cream, add eggs two
at a time and work them in, then the flour.
No powder or raising of any kind wanted
but a good beating at the last to make
the cake fine grained, and pound cake
should not be flavored.
Having made the above you can bake
part of it in a deep mould for pound
cake; spread some on jelly cake pans
for jelly cake or any other kind of layer
cake ; bake one sheet thin on a baking
pan and frost over when done for mer-
ingue cake, put citron, raisins or currants
in some of it, or mix in some melted
chocolate.
Dinner.
July 23.
Soup Puree of green peas, or potage
St. Germaine (6qts, 36 cents.)
Fillets of whitefish with fine herbs (3
Ibs, net 30, mushrooms, etc., 15; 45
cents.)
Potatoes, Victoria.
Boiled tongue and corn beef (2 orders,
10 cents counting waste.)
Roast beef (end of loin 2 Ibs, 24 cents.)
Roast pork, apple sauce (2^ IDS, and
sauce, 35 cents.)
Escalopes of veal, sauce Bearnaise (2
Ibs, veals net 30, breading, and butter
to baste 10, sauce 10; 28 orders, 50
cents.)
Deviled ham, puree of potatoes (6
orders, 8 ozs, 12 cents.)
' Summer beets (3 large and sauce 6
cents.)
Green peas, corn, tomatoes, potatoes
(with seasonings, 50 cents.)
Boiled spice pudding, golden sauce
(3 Ibs, 20, and sauce 9; 29 cents.)
Gooseberry jelly tarts (22 tarts, 20
cents.)
Frozen custard (with milk, little cheaper
34-
;han cream, 2 qts, and freezing, 34 cents.)
Cake, crackers, cheese, bread, butter
Milk, cream 34, coffee, tea, sugar 14.
Total, $4 33; 34 persons; nearly 13
cents a plate.
735 Puree of Green Peas Soup, or
Potage St. Germaine.
Boil 3 pints of dry peas of a good
screen color, or 5 pints of fresh green peas
in 5 quarts of clear soup stock. Put in
a piece of salt pork, about half a pound
and a handtul of soup vegetables. When
the peas are thoroughly done take out the
pork, which can be used as boiled meat,
and pass the soup and peas through a
fine strainer or seive into the soup pot.
Season, arid keep hot without boiling.
Serve toasted bread (croutons) cut very
small, a few in each plate, or the kind
made as follows.
736 Croutons Soufflees.
These are little squares of fine puff
paste, cut no larger than white beans,
thrown into hot lard and fried of a
very light color.
737 Fillets of Whitefish with Fine
Herbs.
"Fine herbs" as applied to several
dishes and to "sauce aux fines heroes,"
means mushropmSjShalots or green onions
and parsley minced and mixed together
in a light brown sauce.
Take whitefish when fresh and firm,
cut the two sides from the back bone,
then holding them flat on the table slice
them the flat way again with a very
sharp knife to make thin, broad pieces.
Cut these in strips, double them as you
place them in the buttered baking pan
to have the boned side up and lean one
against the other until the pan is full.
Chop half a can of mushrooms, four
young onions and handful of parsley to-
gether and strew them among the fillets,
also, a dredging of salt and pepper, some
bits of butter and the liquor from the can
of mushrooms. Bake about half an hour,*
basting twice with a little light colored
COOKING fOR PROFIT.
veal gravy. Serve one fillet and potatoes
in some special form on the same plate.
738 Potatoes a la Victoria.
They are balls of mashed potato egged
on top and baked.
Boil 4 potatoes, drain off and mash
them with the raw yolk of an egg, pinch
of salt and slight grating of nutmeg.
Make in round balls about the size of
walnuts, place in a baking pan, egg over
the tops and a few minutes before dinner
put them in the oven to bake a light
brown. Serve one or two with fish or
use to garnish entrees.
739 Escalopes of Veal a la Bear-
naise.
The slices must be thin ana oi a choice
cut to look well ; scraps and fragments, will
make other dishes ; the leg or best meat
of the loin and ribs will make escalopes.
Cut like small thin steaks about half as
large as the palm of the hand, season with
a dredging of spiced salt, or with salt and
pepper only, egg and bread them in
cracker meal, lay in a buttered pan,
moisten with oil, clear butter or fresh
roast meat fat ; brown them handsomely
in the oven. Place a spoonful of sauce
in the individual dish, the veal in that and
ornament wich either fried bread in fancy
torm or pastry leaves or lemon.
740 Sauce Bearnaise.
It is a thick yellow sauce that looks
like tartar sauce or mayonaise, but hot
and contains minced shalots, mushrooms,
truffles and parsley.
Put into a small bright saucepan 4 ta-
blespoons vinegar and i of minced young
onions, and boil ; add 2 ounces bcsi but-
ter (large eg^ size) and then 4 yolks and
stir over the fire until it begins to thicken ;
add i tablespoonful each of minced
mushrooms and truffles, little salt, cay-
enne and finely minced parsley. It is to
be cooked enough to set the egg yolks to
a buttery thickness, but not enough to
cause them to break into curds.
There was a king called Henry the
Bearnaise. The word refers either to him
or his country.
741 Deviled Ham with Puree of
Ptoato.
Thin slices ham half the size that are
used for breakfast will do for this, opread
them with French mustard, largely di-
luted with oil and vinegar, or with com-
mon mustard a3 if for sandwiches, lay in
a pan and cook them in the oven. Dish
a spoonful of mashed potato (sweet po-
tato is better) and a slice of the deviled
ham pressed down on it.
74-2 Coiled Spice Pudding.
4 cups flour a pound.
2 cups minced suet 6 ounces,
i cup molasses y% pound,
heaping cup raisins y^ pound,
tablespoon mixed ground spices-
cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, alspice or
whichever may be at hand.
small teaspoon soda, same of salt,
cup milk*
Mix the suet and flour together, put in
soda, salt, spices; cut the raisins in halves
and throw in. Stir togetherthe egg, milk
and molasses, mix up the dry stuff with
them, stir thoroughly. Tie up in a pud-
ding bag, leaving a little room to swell,
boil 4 or hours. Puddings of this
sort should be made before breakfast or
over night that they may have plenty of
time to boil. They are light, rich and
cheap, using the surplus suet from the
meat.
Costs 19 cents for three 3 Ibs. 012
quarts.
74-3_Golaen Sauce for Puddings.
i cup sugar.
i cup water.
i heaping teaspoon <:orn starch.
i yolk of egg.
i ounce butter.
Lemon peel or nutmeg.
Boil the sugar and water with the fla-
voring in it. Mix the starch in a cup with
water and tnicken, beat in the butter then
the yolk or two of them. Costs 8 or 9
cents for a pint.
744 Gooseberry Jelly Tarts.
One making of puffpaste or a piece kept
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
on ice from a previous day will do for the
fried souffles for soup (No. 738) for leaf
or crescent shapes to decorate an entree,
and the remainder for tarts. Roll it out
thin, cut out with a cake cutter, press
into gem pans, a teaspoon of jelly in each
and Bake.
745 Trouble wilh the Fruit Jellies
This is about jelly that "wouldn't jell".
It was beautifully pink and clear, how-
ever, that is the jelly which the lady of
the house and her maids made was,
while a quart that the cook made in a
sort of short order way for present use
was not clear and was rather dark ; but it
was solid enough to slice when cold.
Probably the difference was caused in
part by the little lot that was made in
haste, having plenty of sugar and the
large lot that took all the afternoon and
evening to boil and all night to stand and
get cold and thin "w9uldn't jell" and had
to go it all over again, had not. They
talked about it beforehand and intended
to have the jelly as good as could be
made (for small fruit is very abundant
here, the best costing only 6 to 8 cents a
quart,) but came to a wrong decision
a bout the amount of sugar; one said that
the rule was to use a pint of sugar to every
pint of fruit juice that is a pound to a
pound but then, they said, that was for
jelly to put away in glass jars or tumblers
and keep for a year or more, only to bring
out for company, and they only wanted
this to keep through the winter and use
it when needed and it seemed as though
three-quarters of a pound of sugar to a
pound (or pint) of juice ought to do, so
that was what they allowed and the result
was the jelly * 'wouldn't jell." Perhaps it
would have "iell'd" if they had boiled it
down more ; out then there would not
have been so much of it and it would
have been as dear as if it had more sugar.
I think after all that it was the house-
keeper who was to blame, but the jelly
stayed soft and they put it back in the ket-
tle next day and put in a lot more sugar
without weighing or measuring, only be-
ing sure to give it plenty and then boiled
it all the afternoon and it came out all
right, at least so far as setting solid was
concerned, but it was not fine jelly after
that, the second boiling took away the
good color. They had better have al-
lowed pound for pound at first. It is
very likely the cook was half-way glad
that jelly "wouldn't jell" through covet-
ousness ; for he knew that whether good
or bad none of it would come to him and
there were pound layer cakes made last
evening waiting for jelly to spread them
with, tarts for dinner that wanted jelly and
some white cake layers to come yet with
the ice cream, but he went on saying the
jell that all are praising is not the jell for
me, and took 2 quarts of ripe gooseber-
ries in a small tin pan with a cover and
put in y 2 cup water and parboiled them
with the steam shut in about ten minutes,
then rubbed the pulp and juice through
a fine strainer, added 2 cups sugar, set
the pan on top of a stove-lid to hold it up
from the stove, and let simmer without
further attention for 2 hours. Produced
i quart dark red jelly very firm ; good for
all ordinary uses in pastry; cost : 2 qua ts
berries 16, and i Ib. sugar & 24 cents.
To make really cheap jellies it is neces-
sary to use apple's at the cheapest season;
proceed the same as above named for
gooseberries and either mix the juice of
other fruits with the apple juice to get
various kinds, or else merely color and
flavor it as desired.
Hurrah for fresh vegetables and sea
fish ! First arrival. Right here in the
heart of an agricultural country canned
goods are used as much as a matter of
course ^ as if it were a mountain camp ;
find it is about as difficult to buy poultry
as it would be to buy a turtle or terrapin ;
perhaps these could be obtained by ex-
press in even less time than it would take
to find a farmer with young ducks or
chickens so sell. Instead of inquiring
whether a resort is situated in a good
farming region, people who desire all the
luxuries of the season would do better to
ascertain if the express companies reach
the point in question. Received :
1 bbl new potatoes, 3 bu @ 75.
2 boxes tomatoes, a bushel, i 20.
i bu green pease i oo.
i bu turnips 60.
25 heads summer cabbage @ 5.
8 Ibs Iresh salmon @ 12.
7 Ibs red snapper @
Calf s head and feet 75.
Dinner.
July 24.
COOKING fOR PROFIT.
Soup Consomme Solferino (6 qts 35
cents).
Sliced tomatoes (10 cents).
Fried black bass, tartar sauce (5 Ibs
gross breaded and fried 50 sauce 8; 58
cents.)
Potatoes, gastronome.
Boiled meats (nominal, left over for
cold.)
Roast lamb, mint sauce ( 3 Ibs AO cents.)
Roast veal with dressing ( i Yz Ibs and
stuffing 23 cents.)
Beef a la mode (2 Ibs 25 cents.)
Epigramme of lamb, a rAllemande,
dj^lbs 15; sauce 5; dumpling 5 16 or-
ders 25 cents.)
New potatoes 12, cabbage 12, rice 3,
peas 10, corn 7 44 cents.
Queen fritters and sabayon (24 fritters
22 ; sauce 10 ; 32 cents.)
Apple and cherry pies (spies 27 cents.)
Cake and milk (47 cents.)
Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, condi-
ments (34 cents.)
Butter 7, bread 6, coffee, tea, sugar,
1 6.
Total $4 29, 34 persons; 12^ cents a
plate.
al form in the same plate, and tartar
sauce in a separate dish.
746 Consomme Solferino.
A clear brown consomme with white
quenelles in the plates.
When boUin? the strained broth to
clarify it (as at No. 139) add a tabjespoon-
ful of whole cloves and alspice, giving the
finished consomme a spicy flavor, and
add a little extract 01 meat or a well
browned roast chicken to color and en-
rich it. To make the quenelles; boil y 2
cup farina in three times as much milk,
as at No. 761, making a stiff porridge ol
it, add salt, nutmeg and two raw yolks,
pound all together, let cool, then roll up
in balls, size of cherries ; boil them in
water a few minutes, drain off and put
half a dozen in each plate.
747 Fried Black Bass. Tartar Sauce
Split the fish, divest them of skin,
which can be done by cutting close with
a sharp knife or else by dipping in hot
water; cut in small pieces, salt well, roll
in flour only, and fry in a kettle of hot
Kiru. Serve with potatoes in some speci-
748 Tartar Sauce.
It is mayonaise sauce with minced
pickle, capers and onion added.
Put 2 raw yolks into a pint bowl, add
a tablespoon of salad oil and stir to-
gether with an egg beater, add more oil
and continue stirring, throw in *4 tea-
spoon of salt and it will become thick al-
most immediately ; then add a teaspoon
of vinegar, then 2 of oil and continue un-
til you have enough for the purpose con-
stantly; stirring the sauce, adding oil twice
and vinegar once alternately and always
in very small portions, and at the finish
or when y9u have near a cupful, squeeze
in the juice of half a lemon. Mustard
and cayenne may be added if wished, but
are not essential ingredients of mayonaise
sauce.
Mince a few capers and piece of green
pickle and a young onion or two extremely
fine, drain the mince on a napkin, stir it
into the mayonaise and you have tartar
sauce. Serve cold in individual sauce
dishes or large butter chips.
749 Potatoes a la Gastronome.
Cut raw potatoes in shape of bottle
corks, which is done by first cutting in
thick slices and then with an apple corer
or funnel or a column cutter of graded
size proper for the purpose. Boil in
salted water and then fry in fresh hot
lard and drain on a sieve. Sprinkle with
minced parsley, lemon juice and a little
clear butter, shake up and serve 3 or 4 in
each plate with the fish.
750 Beef a la Mode Jardiniere.
Take a lean piece of beef about i%
pounds, and 54 pound salt pork and a tur-
nip and carrot. Choose the pork fat close
to the skin because it is j.oui>h enough
to lard with without breaking. Cut it in
strips rather thinner than a common
pencil and cut ihe turnip and carrot the
same way. Fill the piece of beef full of
these strips drawing them in with
a larding needle. Put the beef with the
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
ss
fragments of pork and vegetables into
a saucepan, add an onion with a few
cloves stuck in it, a bay leaf and soup
stock to nearly cover and simmer with
the lid on or in the oven 2 or 3 hours.
Take it up, either make sauce in the
same or add some Spanish sauce, (No.
784) and a little wine, strain, skim off the
fat and serve in the dish with the meat
carefully sliced across the larding and
garnish with a few shapes stamped out
of cooked vegetables and warmed in
sauce. Small larding is necessary to
make this a desirable dish ; the slices of
meat should show spots no larger than
French peas.
751 Epigramme of Lamb a P Alle-
mande.
It is lamb stew with German dump-
lings, Ailemande signifying German.
The sauce is light yellow, the dumplings
raised with yeast and strained separ-
ately. Chop the breast of lamb into
strips, then into pieces of 3 or 4 ribs,
wash, stew with a few cut vegetables and
season. Take out the meat when done
which will be in less than an hour if
young lamb, strain the liquor, add a
thickening of flour and 2 yolks. Let the
yolks be added after the flour has boiled
up in it and do not let boil again.
Throw in a little minced parsley and
pour tne sauce over the pieces of meat.
Serve one piece of lamb with sauce and
a dumpling at one end.
752 German Dumplings without
bggs or Powder.
Leave put a piece of roll dough from
the breakfast breads and keep ic cool.
About 2 hours before dinner make it out
in round balls, set them in steamers,
taking care not to cover all the holes,
grease the tops to prevent drying, let
rise an hour, steam about fifteen
minutes. Serve as pot pie dumplings or
in such dishes as the preceding, or with
sweet sauce or fruit or butter and sugar
to take the place of pudding.
753 Queen Fritters Beignets Souffles.
I cup water y 2 pint full measure.
2 ounces butter or lard large egg size.
i round cup flour 4 ounces.
t the water on to boil in a saucepan
and the butter (or lard) in it. Stir in the
flour all' at once and work the paste thus
made with a spoon till smooth and well
cooked . Take it from the fire and work
in the eggs one at a time, beating in one
well before adding another, and when
all are in beat the mixture thoroughly
against the side of the saucepan. Make
some lard hot. It will take half a sauce-
panful. Drop pieces of the batter a bout
as large as eggs and watch them swell
and expand in the hot lard and become
hollow and light. Only four or five at
a time can be fried because they need
plenty of room.
If dropped small, say, not much larger
than a walnut, the above will make 25
fritters. They show their remarkable
lightness better, however, when made
larger.
754 Sauce Sabnyon.
Boil together i cup suo;ar and ^ cup
water and thicken with cornstarch.
Beat 2 or 3 yolks in a bowl with 4 table-
spoons of wine and 2 of sugar; when it
is frothy with beating pour the thickened
sauce to it, whisk again and serve as
sauce to fritters and puddings. Other
flavorings can be used, rum is ^frequently
employed or brandy when for plum pud-
ding. The golden sauce No. 743 is
nearly the same thing if whisked to a
foam, and does not require liquor or
wine which suits a temperance house
like this we are writing of.
Dinner.
July 25.
Soup Puree of white beans or, potage
a la conde (6 qts 30 cents).
Sliced tomatoand cucumber (10 cents).
Salmon au gratin, tartar sauce (3 Ibs
net (0)15, breading and sauce 53 cents).
Potatoes, mareschale.
Boiled ham with greens (7 orders, i lb
ham 15, with greens 20 cents).
Roast beef (2 ribs 3 Ibs 36 cents).
Veal with dressing d^ Ibs 20 cents).
COOKING FOR PROflT.
Entrecote of pork, Dauphinoise (3 Ibs
net 40, with dressing 45).
Kromeskies a la Russe (8 orders 16
cents).
Green peas 15, string beans 5, rice with
cream 6, tomatoes 8, potatoes 12 (46
cents).
Boiled farina pudding, lemon sauce (3
pts 12, with sauce 18 cents).
Coffee ice cream d qt cream, sugar,
coffee; 2 qts frozen 35 cents).
Cake assorted (20 cents).
Nuts, raisins, cheese, pickles, condi-
ments (35 cents).
Milk, cream, coffee, tea, bread, butter
(55 cents).
Total $4 39 : 35 persons; 12^ cents a
plate.
755 Puree of White Beans or, Potage
a la Conde.
It is bean soup with milk- added a
cream of beans. Take :
4 cups beans.
i large onion, carrot, turnip,
i Ib lean salt pork.
5 or 6 quarts soup stock
i or 2 quarts milk.
Soak the beans in water over night ; put
them in with the vegetables either whole
or in large pieces and boil in the soup
stock until the beans are quite soft. The
pork which is for seasoning need only be
boiled in it an hour then taken up and
kept for some other use, as for baked
beans etc.
Half an hour before dinner take out
the vegetables and pass the soup and
beans through a sieve or strainer into the
soup ppt. i>oil the milk, add a little
thickening then pour through a strainer
Jnto the puree of beans. Season and
serve with small conae crusts of & very
light color dried instead of toasted. See
also No. 182. The French word prob-
ably has reference to a Prince de conde
who was very popular in his time.
756 Sliced Tomatoes.
While it is quicker and easier to peel
tomatoes if they are first scalded in hot
water, they are never so good afterwards,
and some people take a little more time
and patience and peel them with a sharp
knife without scalding. That is the best
way. Keep cold and serve with pieces of
ice upon them.
These belong to the list of cold hprs <f
ottevreor side dishes; their place in the
bill of fare is after the soup when soup is
the first dish named; but if raw oysters or
clams precede the soup, the tomatoes,
cucumbers, olives and similar articles
will be written after them. Being gener-
ally placed on the table before the begin-
ning of dinner some latitude is taken by
the guests as to the time of partaking of
such relishes and salads according to in-
dividual preferences.
757 Salmon au Gratin.
Means that it is browned in the oven-
A gratin is a baking pan ; anything grati-
nated is toasted or browned.
Take half the salmon and lay it open
without quite dividing; take off the skin
with a sharp knife, moisten the fish with
a little olive oil, pepper and salt, and let
lie in the pan an hour or two. An hour
before dinner make some fresh roast meat
fat hot in the pan and bake brown in
about half an hour, basting once or twice
with clear butter. Drain away the grease ,
or move the fish into a clean pan. Serve
small portions cut with a fish slice with
tartar sauce at the side and potatoes in
some special form on the same plate.
758 Potatoes a la Marechale.
The name for the familiar browned
whole potatoes with the difference, how-
ever, that these must be all quite round
and of one size, made so by cutting out
with the largest size of potato spoon
which forms them large as crab apples or
small tomatoes. New potatoes of a
round smooth sort scraped serve the pur-
pose. Put them in a pan with roast meat
tat and cook brown in the oven. Serve
with fish or entrees.
759 Entrecote of Pork, Dauphinoise.
Entrecote signifies choice piece, middle
cut, the cut between the ribs, generally
applied to beef. The use of it is to inti-
mate that it is not plain roast pork but
something seasoned.
Cut the meat from the back bone of a
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
Join or rack of young pork in one long fil-
let and a portion of the flank with it.
Make a roll of it that will be quite small;
split the meat if too large when rolled and
make two. Before rolling; up spread
upon it a seasoning of finely minced on-
ion, powdered sage or rosemary, bayleaf
also powdered, salt and a little cayenne,
tie up with twine, cook in soup stock a
while without browning, then roll in egg
and cracker meal and bake brown. Bake
a few small tomatoes set far apart in a
pan so that they will dry away from their
juice, and also a few small onions and
when time to serve put a spoonful of
gravy into the small dish, a slice of the
roll of pork and baked tomato and
browned onion at the ends for^garnish.
Dauphinoise is equivalent to saying after
the manner of the people of Dauphiny.
760 Kromeskies a la Russe.
Kromeskies are a kind of meat fritter
or fish or oyster fritter; for krom-
eskies can 6e made of anything
that will make croquettes. Mince
some veal, lamb or chicken very
fine ; season with spiced salt, or salt, pep-
per and nutmeg, mix with a little very
stiff sauce made by stirring butter and
flour over the fire and adding broth or
water, taking care not to get in too much
liquor. When cold roll up the prepara-
ti9n like very small sausages; dip into thin
fritter batter and fry light colored in fresh
lard. Serve with a spoonful of good
white sauce placed previously in the dish
and sprinkle with finely minced parsley.
As these are fried they should be laid on
paper to drain. Very few are called for
at the first time of ^ervng, the name not
being iamiiiar to many, and expensive
ingredients may as well be omitted.
Make kromeskies ot game or lobster same
way.
761 Boiled Farina Pudding.
4 cups milk a quart,
i small cup farina 4. ounces.
Y cup sugar,
i or 2 yolks.
Butter size of an egg.
Boil the milk with the sugar in it, beat
in the farina with an egg whisk the same
as making mush. When well mixed put
a lid on and let it cook an hour; set it on
a brick to raise it from the fire, or in a
farina kettle. Beat in the butter before
serving and the yolks first beaten with a
iittle milk. The pudding need not be
baked. Serve with sauce.
762 Coffee Ice Cream.
i quart pure sweet cream*
i cup sugar.
y z cup strong clear coffee;
Mix and freeze.
In order to obtain coffee strong enough
not to dilute the cream a cup of made
coffee can be boiled up with a heaping
tablespoon of ground coffee and then
strained into the cream. It is not best to
matte it too highly flavored.
Dinner.
July 26.
boup consomme aux pates d* Italic
(6 qts 30 cents).
Sliced tomatoes and cucumbers (io
cents).
Salmon a 1'Ecossaise (3 Ibs {gross @
13, with sauce 48 cents).
Potatoes au naturel.
Braised tongue a la Flamande (tongue
24 cents, la.ded, garnished, 30 cents).
Roast beef (2 ribs 3 Ibs 36 cents).
Spring lamb, mint sauce (fore quarter
6 Ibs 70 cents).
Pork cutlets, sauce Robert do orders
\y>2 Ibs net and sauce 20 cents).
Queen fritters requested and double
quantity of other day, (40 fritters with
transparent sauce 60 cents).
Green peas 15, string beans 5, cabbage
io, tomatoes 12, rice 5, potatoes io (57
cents).
Baked plum pudding (No. 29, with
sauce, 35 cents).
Custard pie (2 pies 18 cents).
Cherry water ice (No. 242, 30 cents).
Delicate cake (No. 770, i Ib io cents).
Telly roll (No. 7, i Ib io cents).
Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, pickles,
condiments, 39 cents.
Milk, cream, coffee, tea, bread, butter,
60 cents,
Total $5 63; 39 persons; 14^ cents a
plate.
COOKING fOR PROFII.
763 Consomme with Italian Pastes
or aux Pates d' Italic.
It is clear consomme made as for royal
(No. i M) with some sort of Italian pastes
cooked separately, washed free from meal
and put in. These are various, such as
alphabet pastes of the same material as
macaroni stamped in letters or in fancy
figures. There is a short kind of maca-
roni for the purpose, or common maca-
roni may be cooked and afterwards cut
into quarter inches and put in the con-
somme. Fidelini, spaghetti and lasagnes
are other varities of macaroni which can
be used in the same ways.
764 Salmon, Scottish Style or a
I'Ecossaise.
Have some water boiling ready, throw
in salt enough to make it taste, and half
an hour before dinner drop in the fish and
boil gently at the back of the stove. Stir
some butter to make it soft without melt-
ing it and mix in lemon juice and parsley.
Cook potatoes with the skins on, peel
when done and cut in quarters. Take up
the salmon (there should be a fish kettle
with a drainer or false bottom to boil fish
in) serve small portions individually with
the prepared butter for sauce and the cut
potatoes on the same plate.
minutes before dinner, usbg roast meat
fat or butter and get them brown. Serve
a spoonful of sauce Robert in the dish
and a cutlet in it and a fried bread crou-
ton for garnish.
767 Sauce Robert
Named after a French restauranteur of
the last century who made it known and
valued as an accompaniment to broiled
pork.
Mince an onion extremely fine and stir
over the fire in a small saucepan with a
little oil or clear butter until it is cooked
and beginning to brown, then put in a
little made mustard, a tablespoonful of
vinegar, pepper, and half a cup of light
veal gravy or Spanish sauce. Skim pff the
{ oil or butter as it rises. Serve without
straining it is a yellowish brown sauce
with miinced onion in it.
765 Braised Tongue, Flemish Style,
a la Flamande.
It is corned tongue larded through
lengthwise with strips of fat pork, sim-
mered in a covered saucepan with vege-
tables and seasonings, sliced across the
larding so as to show it, laid upon a i
spoonful of greens in the individual dish j
to serve. Anything in the style of Flan- ;
ders or Holland may be expected to come
up with a garniture of greens.
766 Pork Cutlets, Sauce Robert.
Cut pork chops or steaks very small
and thin, dredge with salt and pepper and
dip into flour; lay them in a frying pan
ready. Ccok on top of the stove a few
768 Rice Plain Southern Wa>.
The object is to get the grains loose
and distinct and served dry although well
cooked. Wash a cupful 9f rice in three
waters; put in on to boil in four cups of
water and shut up with a lid. Never stir
it. When done, or in half an hour, drain
off the water ; wash it in cold water, pour
into a colander to drain, put back into
the saucepan with a little salt shaken
about in it and let get hot again without
more boiling; serve dry.
769 Rich Baked Plum Pudding.
Had broken cake and frosting from
party supper, crushed and rolled it to
crumbs, took
6 heaped cups of cake crumbs and ic-
ing.
6 eggs.
i Yz cups milk.
K cup brandy.
i lemon.
Mix eggs and milk together, stir in the
cake crumbs, add the grated rind of the
lemon and the juice, stir up and bake
covered with buttered paper to prevent
blistering. Cost; cake 2 Ib 10, eggs 8,
milk 3, lemon 2, brandy 6; 29 cents for
2 quarts . Serve with sauce sabayon or
transparent .
SAN fRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
770 Delicate Cake.
One of the very best white cakes.
2 cups granulated sugar i pound
light weight.
2 cups white butter ^ pound.
13 whites of eggs 1/ pound.
i teaspoon cream tartar.
i teaspoon baking powder.
flavoring extract or little brandy if
wished, but not essential; y 2 cup milk.
Sift the cream tartar ana baking pow-
der in the mixed starch and flour.
Soften the butter and stir it and t e
sugar together to a cream ; add the whites
a little at a time, without previous beat-
ing, then the flour and starch and beat
well ; and at last beat in the milk. Bake
either in moulds or in jelly cake pans. If
lemons are at hand the juice of one may
be used instead of cream tartar; but use
no soda in white cakes.
Dinner^
July 27.
Soup cream a la duchesse (8 qts 45
cents).
Scalloped salmon, frizzed potatoes
(fish, charged previous days, say, 20
cents).
Boiled corned tongue (2^ Ibs, 28
cents).
Corned beef and cabbage (i Ib, and
cabbage 16 cents).
Roast beef, (2 ribs, 3 Ibs net, 39 cents).
Spring lamb (side, 7 Ibs net, 80 cents).
Roast mutton (for second table, 4 Ibs,
48 cents).
Grenadins of veal, sauce Napolitaine
(8 orders, i Ib select and sauce 24 cents).
Brochettes of kidney, sauce claremont
(4 orders, 10 cents).
Mashed turnips 4, hot slaw 9, green
peas 15, stewed tomatoes 15, potatoes two
days 15 (57 cents).
Steamed pound pudding, wine sauce
(2 Ibs and sauce, 28 cents).
Apple tarts (24 tarts, 30 cents).
Boston cream puffs (No. 288 ; 32 puffs
half size, 36 cents).
Sultana cake and pound cake (15
cents).
Vanilla ice cream (2^ qts pure cream,
sugar, etc., 70 cents).
Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, pickles,
condiments (48 cents).
Milk 36, cream 20, butter 20, bread 12
(88 cents).
Coffee 10, tea 3, sugar 4 (17 cents).
Total $6 99 ; 48 persons ; 14^ cents a
plate .
771 Cream Soup, a la Duchesse.
A rich white soft SOUD like cream of
chicken with egg custards.
Boil either a chicken or white veal in
the stock until quite tender; chop in the
meat and pound it in a mortar. Boil a
cup of rice and when done and drained
pound it also with the meat and pass
throuh a sieve. Use 4 or 5 quarts of
seasoned stock, 2 or 3 quarts rich milk
and the puree of chicken and rice to
thicken.
Beat 4 eggs slightly, season with nut-
meg, salt and pepper; put in a deep pan
and cook either in steamer or in pan of
water in the oven. Cut out cork shapes
of custard with a column cutter and put
in the soup just before serving.
772 Scalloped Salmon, Plain cr au
Vin.
Take cold cooked salmon which may
have been left from a previous day and
some other fish or canned salmon to make
enough, and pick it into pieces of ^ even
size without bones. Mix finely minced
bread and cracker meal in equal quanti-
ties. Butter a baking pan, cover the
bottom with the crumbs, place fish enough
to cover that, and plenty of crumbs again
on top.
Take soup stock and milk if to be in
plain style, or soup stock and white wine
if that way, enough to thoroughly moisten,
season with pepper and salt, pour over
the scallop and bake ^brown. Cut out
squares, place on the dishes as neatly as
possible, add a border of frizzed potatoes
for decoration.
773 Frizzed Potatoes.
The same as Julienne (No. 729) but
shred much finer. Slice raw potatoes*
with a Saratoga cutter, then place the
93
COOKING JFOR PROSIT.
slices upon each other and shred them.
Fry almost white in fresh lard. Serve as
a garnish.
774 Grenadins of Veal, Napolitaine.
Small selected veal steaks, size of the
palm of the hand, larded with a few strips
of fat pork, baked in a quick oven, served
with sauce in the dish.
Slice the leg of veal for them and use
the trimmings in soup or stews. Draw
the lardoons through so that a dozen ends
will cluster in the middle of each grena-
din. Butter a pan, strew a very little
rcinced onion, salt and pepper ; place the
veal close together; bake light brown.
Have some clear soup stock boiled down
to glaze and baste them with it while bak-
ing.
775 Sauce Napolitaine.
Mix grated horseradish in thin white
sauce, made by tnickening strong chicken
broth with white roux. Butter sauce di-
luted will answer the purpose ordinarily
the horseradish is the chief ingredient.
776 Brcchettes cf Kidneys and Ham.
Slice up the kidneys that may have ac-
cumulated, and small pieces of ham, cut
them to one size as near as can be, and
not larger than a silver half dollar. Run
them on iron skewers, a slice of kidney
and a slice of ham alternately until
the skewers are full. Trim off corners
with a straight cut, lay in a pan and bake.
Serve in a spoonlul of sauce in the dish,
pushing off the portion from the skewer
with a fork.
These may also be fried in hot fat and
served for breakfast; also breaded and
fried.
777 ^auce Claremonl.
Mince onions and stir over the fire in a
little oil until cooked ; add brown sauce
or light veal gravy; skim off the oil as it
rises.
i cup vinegar.
i cup water.
4 yolks of eggs.
i tablespoon butter.
i tablespoon salt.
Shred the cabbage fine, mix the yolks
well with some water, put everything
into a saucepan or into the sink of the
steam chest and stir occasionally until it
reaches boiling point ; then keep it where
it will not boil. m This makes a yellow sort
of cream dressing in the cabbage; but
boiling curdles the egg and would make
it noc so g09d. Add minced red pepper
if you have it ; some add sugar.
779 Hot Slaw Another Way.
The common hotel way of making hot
slaw is to put the shred cabbage into a
large saucepan with roast meat or bacon
fat and vinegar and stir it over the fire
until f the cabbage is partly cooked and
the vinegar has dried out, making a sort
of imitation of sour krout ; it is cheap.
730 Steamed Pound Pudding.
i pound sugar any kind.
3/i pound butter.
10 eggs.
i pound flour.
Stir the butter and sugar together ; add
the eggs, two at a time, not beaten ; when
all are in add the flour. Beat up well.
Use part to steam in a mould or pan for
pudding. It takes from one to one and
a half hours to steam ; must have a good
lid on or paper cover under the lid and
plenty of steam. As the pudding is sliced
like cake and "goes a good way" there
will be some of the batter to spare to
bake a pound cake at the same time.
Serve sauce with the pudding. If no
wine, add some fruit juice to the syrup
made of sugar and starch and boil until
clear.
778 Hot Slaw.
i or 2 heads white cabbage.
781 Apple Tarts.
Made of puff paste and cooked apple
put through a colander and well sweet-
ened. Canned apples will answer when
fresh cannot be had.
Roll out puff paste, cut flats and line
large patty pans or jem pans, put in a
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
tablespoon of apple and bake. A favor-
ite sort of pastry, richer than apple pie
and sells well at the fine bakeries.
782 Eclairs a la Crcme
The French name for cream puffs No.
288 when filled with whipped cream. In
places where pure cream can be obtain-
ed, as at this summer resort, instead of
using the pastry custard take cream, set
in a pan ot ice water, sweeten, and then
whip with the wire egg-whisk until it is
frothy and thick. Flavor with vanilla ^or
lemon ; cut the puffs open at top fill with
whipped cream and replace the piece.
Cream puffs can be made for 15 cents a
dozen of small size with eggs at a low price,
and cream.
783 Sultana Cake
Make delicate cake, No 770, and add
to it a pound of sultana seedless raisins .
784 Spanish Stock Sauce.
When the number of people to be pro-
vided for amounts to forty or fifty, it is a
saving of labor to keep stock sauces on
hand ;the most useful is that which has
come to be called Spanish sauce, con-
taining a small proportion of tomatoes.
It will have to be maae every second or
third day and kept cold until all is used.
Take a large saucepan, pour in to it about )
a cupful of the clear oil of melted butter
and lay in some pieces of raw ham the
rough ends will ao but no smoky outside.
Throw in 6 or 8 onions or leeks or both,
cut in large pieces, as much turnips and
carrots, a tablespoon of cloves and some
alspice and crushed black pepper, lay on
these some soup bones, veal shank and
neck, flank of beef and any small pieces
that can be spared and set over the fire
without any water but with a lid on to stew
and slowly become light brown, stirring
it frequently with a long wooden paddle.
In about half an hour oranhour,accord-
ing to the heat of the fire, put in a small
can of tomatoes and 5 or 6 quarts of soup
stock or part water, anda'handful of salt.
Let cook slowly for 2 hours then thicken
with flour to be about like a tplerably
thick soup, and presently strain it off
away to become cold. The fat can be
taken off when cold. There should
not be enough tomatoes used to make
everything the sauce goes in taste of them.
The uses of this Spanish sauce are to
add to soups of several kinds. Mock Tur-
tle, green turtle and other such soups are
half made when this sauce is made,and a
number of brown sauces need only cer-
tain other ingredients, such as fried min-
ced onion or mushrooms to be added to
the stock sauce, to bring them to an easy
completion.
Dinner
Soup Mock turtle (8 qts, 60 cents.)
Sliced tomatoes and cucumbers (10 cts.)
Fish Redfish au court-bouillon (4
Ibsand sauce 56 cents)
New Potatoes.
Corned beef and tongue (12 orders 22
~ Roast beef d rib 2^ Ibs 30 cents.)
Roast leg mutton (4 Ibs net 50 cts.)
Fricandeau of veal, Italienne (2 Ibs
veal, lardoons, sauce, 40 cts.)
Small patties a la Toulouse (8 orders
24cents.)
String beans in espagnole 10, cabbage
., stewed turnips 5, rice 5, potatoes 15,
io, . _.
beets in vinegar 4, (49 cents.)
Apple pie, old style (3 pies 25 cents.)
Boiled cinnamon pudding, hard sauce
(3 Ibs and sauce 30 cents.)
Vanilla frozen custard (3 qts and freez-
i"g 60 cents.)
Cakes and star kisses (No 5; 20 cents.)
Nuts, raisins, crackers, cheese, pick-
les, condiments, (48 cents.)
Milk, cream, butter, bread, coffee, tea,
sugar, (1,00)
Total, $6.24; 48 persons; 13 cents a
plate.
785 -Mock Turtle Soup
Light brown, rather like a thin gravy
with square cut pieces of calfs head in it
and chopped hard boiled yolks, wine and
lemon.
Boil a calfs head and feet for 2 hours
the head previously split and tongue and
brains taken ont. Take the calfs head
liquor 4 qts and Spanish stock (No. 784)
4 quarts, mix, boil, thicken
through a fine gravy strainer and set it i strain, skim free from grease
slightly,
Cut half
95
COOKING fOR PROFIT.
the calf s head into large dice and add
salf , cayenne, little sherry and juice of
half oi "a lemon and chopped yolks of
2 eggs
If no stock sauce on hand, and the soup
must be started from the beginning, but-
ter the bottom of a saucepan and lay in 2
slices ot lean ham, a handful of onions,
same of turnips and carrots and fry them
together. Put in half can tomatoes, two
bay leaves, cloves, parsley, thyme, the
calf s head liquor and strong soup stock
made in the usual way, enough to make
about 2 gallons. Boil an hour and thick-
en either with roux or flour and water,
Strain, add calf's head, wine lemon juice,
sherry, salt and cayenne.
786 Redfish au Couri-Bouillcn.
This is on 2 of the specialties of New
Orleans and all Southern holels and res-
taurants. The court-bouilkm is not the
same seasoned stock for boiling a whole
fish in, that is generally kn9wn by that
name and which contains wine, but is a
sort of soup of onions, thyme, garlic,
olive oil and tomatoes in which the slices
offish are stewed and both fish and sauce
served together . No one of the ingredients
named should be in excess, but all in
moderate proportions. It is a standing
dish on the breakfast bills of fare of the
best hotels in the Southern cities,trout,
snapper, or other good fish taking the
place according to the market . Without
expecting it to meet \yith any particular
appreciation in this little community. I
let it appear once for novelty, our butch-
er's little shipment of sea fishes allowing
the opportunity .
i with constant stirring, put in the flour
I and stir that about until the mixture
I (which is a seasoned roux) begins to
i brown. Add the soup stock (or broth
' or water) and let boil u p, and then- the
| tomatoes. Season^with salt and pepper.
I Skim off the oil while it is boiling.
Cut fish in slices and cook it in the
sauce. Serve fish and sauce together
with toast either under the slice of fish
or as a garnish at the edge. Rice is also
served with this dish the same as with a
curry, by way of variety.
788 Fncandeau of Veil, i alienne.
but
787 Sauce Court-Bouillon.
Yz cup olive oil
Yz cup minced young onions .
3 c oves (quarter:) of garlic
i teaspoon thyme green or-dned
on powdered.
> cup flour.
Yz cup tomatoes.
4 cups soup stock.
Salt and pepper
Take a riat-bottom saucepan, put in
the oil, onions, garlic, thyme, and let
them cook over the fire a few minutes
It is a piece of veal larded, cooked and
glazed in its own gravy. Take any lean
piece such as the shoulder with the bone
removed, or part of the flank, or the leg
and lard it full of strips of fat salt pork
the same as for beef a la mode or larded
and braised tongue. Cut the pork close
to the skin and it will be found better to
lard with than bacon, which is too strong-
ly flavored. The larding finished, put
the scraps of pork in a baking pan of
small size and depth, also some pieces of
turnip, carrot and onion, sweet herbs if
at hand, such as thyme and parsley ; put
in the veal, thin a little broth and wine,
cover with a buttered paper and bake in
a moderate oven about an hour, basting
occasionally .
Take up the meat when done in anoth-
er pan, strain the remaining liquor, skim
it, glaze the meat by pouring it over and
letting dry in the hot closet. Slice the
meat so that the lardings will show and
serve small cuts with Italian sauce in the
dish and two or three olives for garnish.
789 Italian Sauce. Brown.
1 cup brown sauce (roast meat gravy
skimmed, strained and thickened.)
r teaspoon minced onion.
2 of minced mushrooms.
Same of parsley.
Juice of i lemon .
Cayenne and salt.
Pour half the juice from a can of mush-
rooms into the brown sauce, add the
ether ingredients and boil for 15 minutes.
A better appeaance can be secured if rime
allows when serving to retain the parsley
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
which loses color in the sauce and add it
in each dish . If Spanish sauce be at hand
i* can be used in place of meat gravy.
790 Small Paities a la Toulouse
Puff paste shells filled with a ragout
of brains, chicken and mushrooms .
Boil the brains taken from the calf s
head used for soup, cut when cold into
large dice, cut white meat of chicken the
same way and slice a proportion of mush-
rooms . It does not take much to fill pat-
ties, perhaps half cupful of each will be
sufficient . Make white sauce, season well,
put in the meats and keep hot to fill the
patties with as wanted. Toulouse is a
part of France where the most mush-
rooms were found before they were
grpwn artificially.
791 String Beans in tspagnoie.
Boil the beans and pour over them
rich meat gravy or brown sauce No. 576 .
792 Boiled Cinnamon Pudding.
The English suet pudding No. 732, with
a teasp9onful of ground cinnamon added
has a pink color and forms another va-
riation among the kinds which can be
made with suet, saving butter and eggs.
Dinner.
July 29
Soup Consomme imperial (8 qts 56
cents.)
Red snapper a llndienne (3 Ibs and
sauce 48 cents.)
Rice au gratin (with the fish instead of
potatoes.)
Boiled ham with greens (8 orders i Ib
and greens 18 cents.)
Roast beef (sirloin 5 Ibs 65 cents.)
Shoulder of veal stuffed (4 Ibs in all 50
cents.)
Calf's ^head, turtle style (^ head and
feet 40 with sauce 55 cents.)
Scallops of mutton a la Provencale (8
orders i Ib net and sauce 18 cents. )
Baked beans and pork (ilbbeans4
oz pork 2 qts 10 cents.)
Summer beets 9, cabbage 5, green peas
15, corn 15, potatoes 2 ways 12, (58 cents.)
Ciacked wheat pudding with maple sy-
rup (No. 392 ; with sauce 24 cents.)
Apple cream pie (4 pies 33 cents.)
Lemon ice cream (starch and milk, no
;gs, 3 qts and freezing 40 cents.)
Cake assorted kinds (2 Ibs 20 cents.)
Nuts, raisins, crackers, cheese, pickles,
(average 49 cents.)
Milk, cream, butter, bread, coffee, tea,
sugar, $i oo.
Total, $6.44; 49 persons ; fraction-over
13 cents a plate.
793 Consomme Imperial.
Almost the same as royal. No. 139.
The egg custards can be cut with a round
cutter instead of in diamonds, and add
a half pint of Madeira or sherry. A lib-
eral allowance of extract of meat should
be used when desired to make this con-
somme of good quality in places where
there is no poultry to be had, and the ex-
tract makes it unnecessary to use color-
ing,as it imparts a very rich color itself.
794 Red Snapper a llndienne, or
with Curry Sauce.
Pish baked in curry sauce with a bor-
der of rice baked with it in the same dish.
Any dish that is said to be a ITndienne
may be expected to contain curry pow-
der or curry paste.
Brush a "baking pan or dish with but-
ter, skin 3 Ibs of fish and cut it into suit-
able pieces to serve. About half the peo-
ple will not take fish and this amount
will make from 24 to 30 portions. Place
them in the dish in close order.
Take some cooked rice, season it with
salt and milk and i egg or the yolk only
and make a raised bprderof it all around
the edge of the baking dish. Use a wet
knife to smooth it over. Set the dish in
the oven for 15 minutes for the fish to be-
come partly cooked then pour in enough
curry sauce to almost cover, and bake
again until the surface of both fish and
nee border is brown. Serve a portion
of rice with ^each order and the curry
sauce belonging.
97
COOKING FOR PROflT.
755 Curry Sance
Mince an onion extremely fine, put it
in a small saucepan with butter and stir
over the fire until it is cooked without
browning ; put in three times as much
grated cocoanut as there was onion (dry
cocoanut will do but not sweet) and a
heaped teaspoonful of curry powder.
When these are hot add a pint of light
brown sauce (No 57 6) or Spanish sauce or
fresh made gravy from the meat pans.
Skim off the tat, add a pinch of cayenne
and pour it over the fish or chicken or
whatever is to. be baked in the above re-
ceipt.
796 Calf's Head, a la 7 ortue, or in
Turtle Style.
Calf s head previously cooked, cut in
pieces in a brown sauce containing olives,
mushrooms, wine quenelles or egg balls
and mushroom liquor. Cut the half head
and the boneless feet reserved from the
mock turtle soup, making into pieces of
even size and put them in a saucepan of
Spanish sauce (No 784) or good bright
pan gravy with a seasoning of tomato,
add a small portion of each of the ingre-
dients above named, and make hoi . The
olives should have the stones taken out
by means of a small corer out of the col-
umn box, or by running a penknife
around. It is a great improvement to
the appearance to add egg-balls as a gar-
niture. Tortue is French for turtle.
797 Eqg Quenelles for Turtle Sauce
and Soup;
2 hard boiled yolks.
y* as much hot boiled potato.
i teaspoon chopped parsley.
Cayenne and salt.
i raw yolk.
Mash all together. Make up in balls
size of cherries, with flour on the hands.
Poach them a minute or two in a frying-
pan of boiling water. Take up on a skim-
mer and drop them into the soup.
cold veal.
y 2 the weight of fine bread crumbs.
2 or 3 tablespoons melted butter.
Seasoning of sweet herbs, and nutmeg.
Pepper and salt.
i raw egg.
Mince the meat small, add the other
ingredients, and pound them all togeth-
er. Make up in little balls, with "flour
on the hands. Poach them in boiling
water and put them in the soup.
The above two mixtures can be used
as croquettes, made into shapes, and fried
and are good to place as ornamental
acessories in the sauces to fish and
meats.
798 Forcemeat Balls or Quenelles.
^ a calf s tongue, cooked, or some
799 Scallops of Mutton, Provencale
or Creole
A scallop of meat is a thin slice or steak,
as is the Scotch collop and the French
escalope. Anything a la Provencale in
French cookery is the same as a la Creole
in American, it implies tomatoes, onions,
cayenne, oil, wine and sometimes garlic.
For this dish cut small slices of mutton,
saute them first in a frying pan, light
brown, then simmer in water, stock or
sauce until they are tender and add suf-
ficient strained tomatoes to serve as a
sauce. Season the meat and sauce
while stewing with onion, salt and pepper,
A leaf shape of fried bread is a good orn-
ament to the dish.
800 Apple Cream-Pie
2 cups stewed apple a pint.
i cup sugar ^ pound.
i cup milk.
y 2 cup butter % pound
4 eggs (or 8 yolks if any left over)
% cup sherry or nutmeg or lemon
flavoring.
Have^the apples dry by cooking with
scarcely any water but the steam -shut in,
mix apples, sugar and butter together
and milk and eggs together, stir up all
and flavor. Make 5 cupfuls, enough for
4 pies large family size to cut in 6 or 8,
like a custard with no top crust. Cost,
with wine 31 cents, without wine 25;
crust for 4 pies 8 cents.
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
Dinner
'July 30.
Soup Potage a T Andalouse (8qts^ 48
cents.)
Sliced cucumbers and tomatoes (12 cts.)
Broiled whitefish, Venitienne (4 Ibs and
sauce 52 cents.)
Potatoes dauphine.
Boiled corned tongue (28 cents)
Roast beef (i rib 2^ Ibs net 32 cents)
Spring lamb, mint sauce, (6 Ibs and
sauce 75 cents.)
Veal stew a la Milanaise (i^ Ibs and
trimmings 23 cents.)
Rissoles of sweetbreads with truffles (28
orders 60 cents.)
Beets in sauce io,rice 5, green peas 15,
string beans 4, corn 15, tomatoes 8, pota-
toes 12, (69 cents.)
Steamed currant roll (No. 809 ; 2 Ibs
with sauce 18 cents.)
Pumpkin pie (No. 810 ; without eggs, 3
large, 20 cents.)
Rasberry tarts (24 tarts 30 cents .)
Delmonico ice cream (No 201 ; 3 qts 80
cents.)
Chocolate and rose kisses (No 461 ;
20 cents.)
Cake, assorted kinds (15 cents.)
Milk, cream, butter, bread, cheese,
pickles, coffee, tea, sugar and crackers
(1.15)
Total, $6.97; 49 persons; fraction over
14 cents a plate.
The dinner above prepared for 49 per-
sons was partaken of by only 32, the rest
being away across the lake. Much pro-
vision was left over to be taken care of
as best it may, some for supper and
breakfast, some forthe next day's dinner.
801 Potoge a I'Andalouse.
Andalusian or Spanish soup. Make
same as directed for Spanish sauce with
twice as much tomatoes. It is a brown
tomato soup with a light flavor of garlic.
Serve a few croutons in the plates.
802 Broiled Whitefish, Venetian
Sauce.
Split the fish and cut in small pieces.
Broil in the oyster broiler only a few
minutes before it is wanted. Serve Vene-
tian sauce and dauphine potatoes in the
same plate with the fish.
03 Venetian Sauce for Fish
Make drawn butter (butter sauce) a lit-
tle thinner than usual for that sauce, with
a liberal amount of the best butter beaten
in. Add the juice of half a lemon, some
minced parsley and minced capers. A
cupful of sauce is enough and the expense
is small for just sufficient to fill the bill .
804 Potatoes a la Dauphine.
They are potato croquettes of a flat-
tened shape.
Take 4 or 5 potatoes out of the steam-
er and mash them with the yolk of i egg,
salt and a grating of nutmeg. If very
dry a small lump of butter may be added.
Make them out in flattened pats, very
much like figs as they are pressed in boxes,
dip in egg and cracker meal and fry to a
fine yellow color in hot lard . Serve with
fish or with meat entrees. Potatoes in
this form are fine as ornaments but most
tedious of any to prepare, requiring three
or four separate operations.
805 Veal Stew. Milanaise
Stew pieces 9f veal the same as for pot-
Eie; also, boil 4 ounces of macaroni
roken in short lengths and when done
drain dry and season it. Dish up maca-
roni in the individual dish with stewed
veal placed upon it. Milanaise means
in Italian style, or of the city of Milan in
Italy.
806 Rissoles of Sweetb.eads with
Truffles.
Sweetbreads cut small in very stiff
sauce rolled up in pie-paste and fried.
Boil and then cut small 4 or s sweet-
breads. Take l / 2 cup of minced onion
and the same of mushrooms and y 2 cup
butter and stir them over the fire, then
put in y 2 cup sifted flour and when that
is heated through, add a cup of broth or
mushroom liquor from the can gradually,
stirring it up to a very thick sauce. Sear
99
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
son with salt, pepper and nutmeg and
then mix in the sweetbreads. Let the
mixture become cold. There will be a-
bout 32 ounces, making 32 rissoles. Add
a slice of truffle to each one. Roll out
good pie paste as thin as card board, cut
squares the length of a finger place the
sweetbread mixture in the middle, roll
up with the ends doubled in and touch
the edge with a little beaten egg to make
it stick. Drop into a kettle of'lard mod-
erately hot and fry light-colored. Serve
a good sauce in the dish, or green peas
in sauce by way of garnish to the rissole.
807 Corn and Tomatoes.
Cut com from the cob and instead of
the usual milk dressing, mix it with
Stewed tomatoes, salt and little butter,
4ind serve.
811 Pumpkin Pie without Eggs-
Richer.
4 cups stewed squash or pumpkin a
quart.
y? cup sugar.
K cup butter.
2 large basting spoons of flour *nd wa-
ter to thicken it.
i teaspoon cinnamon.
i teaspoon ground ginger.
Melt the butter, stir all together. Fill
two or three pies and bake a long time.
Cost ; a quart pumpkin 8, sugar 2, butter
3, spice i; 14 cents, crust 2 cents
each pie.
808- -Sweet Tomatoes.
Peel tomatoes and put them in a pan
with sugar enough to cover and bake in
a slow oven . The sugar melts, then
dries down to syrup, and tomatoes that
way are esteemed a luxury among dinner
vegetables by many at the South
809 Currant Suet Roil.
One of the cheapest and best boiled
puddings.
3 cups flour y pound
2 large cups minced suet ^pound.
i heaped cup raisins or currants J^lb.
i cup water.
Salt.
Mix all together. Make the dough in-
to a long roll, solid ; tie it up in a cloth,
pin or sew in two places, boil 2 hours .
It is best when the dough is made up very
soft, almost too soft to oe handled. Dip
in cold water when done to get it out of
the cloth, serve with sauce.
812 Pumpkin Butter for Tarts.
4 cups pumpkin cooked dry.
2 cups sugar.
Vz cup butter.
Grated rind of a lemon or some kind
of spice flavor. Mash the pumpkin
through a colander, mix in the other in-
gredients, stew down rich and thick.
Will keep a long time. ^
Dinner.
July 31
Soi
Milanaise (7 qts
pickled beets
810--Sauce Diplomate for Puddings.
Sugar and water boiled and thickened
with flour, allowed to simmer until clear,
red fruit juice or wine, lemon and mace
added.
up Consomme
40 cents).
Tomatoes, cucumbers,
on the table (12 cents).
Fillets of trout a la Momey (6 Ibs grass
and trimmings 70 cents).
Potatoes au gratin .
Boiled tongue (from previous day).
Roast beef (reserved from previous
day.)
Roast pork, apple sauce (3^ Ibs and
sauce 47 cents.)
Rib-ends beef and Yorkshire pudding
No. 144; 3 Ibs ribs 2 1, pudding, No, 815;
u, 14 orders 32 cents.)
Lamb stew, jardiniere (3 Ibs. lamb and
trimmings 40 cents)
^Green com fritters, cream sauce
fritters and sauce 20 cents.)
String beans 2, beets 4, cabbage
tomatoes 12, rice 4, potatoes 14,
cents.)
West Point pudding (No, 820 ;
and sauce 20 cents.)
(20
10,
(46
2 qts
Frozen rice custard (No, 222 ; 3 quarts
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
100
and freezing 50 cents.)
Cake, assorted kinds (20 cents.)
Milk, buttermilk, cream (47 cents.)
Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, pickles,
coffee, tea, butter, bread,(75 cents)
Total, $5.44; 48 persons; n^ cents a
plate.
The dinner above prepared for 48 was
partaken of by only 37, the others being
out on excursions, There will be some
waste and things available such as cold
meats for succeeding meals, and pastry-
cake and ice cream disappear by myster-
ious means after meals and at night.
813 Consomme Milanaise.
Clear consomme with short cut maca-
roni or spaghetti or fidelini in it and red
corned or smoked tongue cut in shreds
size of Julienne vegetables. Cook the
macaroni or spaghetti separately, wash
off in cold water and place ready t9 drop
a spoonful in each plate precaution to
avoid spoiling the clearness of the con-
somme. The shred tongue makes no
difference.
814 Fillets of Trout,a la Morny
Small fillets doubled up in order in
a dish, a raised border of potato around
and all baked brown, with sauce.
Morny is the title of a French duke. A
large platter such as is used to dish up a
whole turkey for a family dinner, should
be devoted to the purpose of cooking fish
in this way, which is like the rice-bor-
dered dish No. 794, and if it can be a
metal chafing-dish of the same shape it,
will be the better, If no dish can be had
a shallow baking pan can be made to an-
swer tolerably well, but it does not hold
the border above the fish gravy.
Cut as many thin slices lengthwise of
the fish as there will be orders, which
may be about two thirds the number of
people, place them, doubled, close to-
gether till the dish is full. Mash potatoes
with egg-yolk salt and nutmeg same as
for croquettes and make a border all a-
round and brush with egg. Mince a
small onion, twice as much mushrooms
strew them amongst the fillets. Add half
cup white wine to a pint or white sauce
(No. 819) pour over the fish and bake on
the bottom of the oven about half an
hour. Serve potatoes, a fillet of fish and
some of the sauce in the same plate.
815 Yorkshire Pudding with Riast
Meats.
A rich egg-batter pudding; can also be
served with sweet sauce.
i y>z cups flour 6 ounces.
3 cups milk L^ pints.
i ounce butter, melted.
Yz teaspoon baking powder.
Mix the flour and milk carefully not
to have it full of lumps, add the melted
butter, salt, pinch of powder, the eggs well
beaten and beat up thoroughly. Butter
a small baking pan and make it warm in
the oven, pour the batter in only about
y% inch deep and bake 15 or 20 minutes.
Water instead of milk can be used, but
then a tablespoon of syrup should be ad-
ded to cause it to brown quickly without
drying out. Cut squares and serve with
roast beef and gravy.
816 Lamb Slew, a la Jardiniere.
Jardiniere is French for gardener; the
made jardiniere always implies the use of
a mixed lot of vegetables. There are
jardiniere cutters to be bought which cut
vegetables in various fancy shapes effect-
ing a great saving of time.
Chop up the breasts and neck of lamb
or mutton, stew until tender, let boil
nearly dry, skim, season and thicken the
liquor that remains. Cut carrots, white
and yellow turnips, Kohl-rabi or cabbage-
turnips, leeks, onions and string beans,
all or any of them, into dice or like peas
with a scoop cutter, and boil until done,
drain off and pour some Spanish sauce
or light brown sauce to them. Serve
the vegetables as a border in the dish
with stewed lamb in the center.
817 Green Corn Fritters.
i heaped cup corn.
y 2 cup butter.
y 2 cup flour.
COOKING FOR PROFI7.
i cup milk or water.
i egg.
Salt and pepper.
Batter to fry in.
The com may be either from a can of
the dry solid packed sort or else green
corn shaved off the cob.
Make white roux first by stirring the
butter and flour over the fire, add milk to
make stiff sauce, stir in the corn, season,
and then put the mixture which is a stiff
paste an inch deep in the pan to get cold.
Cut pieces two inches long, dip in thin
batter (same as if made for pancakes) and
fry light colored in hot lard . Have a
cupful of cream sauce ready and serve a
spoonful under each fritter. Another
and easier way may be found by refer-
ence to the index.
818 Cabbage au Veloute.
Means cabbage in white sauce, as en
Espagnole means brown sauce. Chop
the cabbage, season it, serve a spoonful
to a dish with sauce veloute poured over
it.
819 Sauce Veloute.
Is white sauce but not cream sauce
which latter is called Bechamel. The
word veloute means velvety or smooth.
To make the sauce take some chicken or
veal broth boiled down strong enough to
be jelly when cold, but, without cooling
it strain through a napkin and use it to
make butter sauce thinner than is usually
made ; and after that let it slowly boil and
the butter (that the roux was made with)
will rise to the top. Skim it off and you
have a bright veloute that is not greasy
and can be used as a stock sauce for white
dishes and for fish. This is one of the
main stock sauces in systematic cookery
but in point of fact is not so necessary as
brown sauce and therefore is not made
in every place.
820 West Point Pudding.
Brown cracked wheat pudding with
molasses and raisins.
4 heaped cups cracked wheat mush.
% cup molasses.
1 cup minced suet 4 ounces,
2 or 3 eggs,
3 cups milk.
i teaspoon ground cinnamon.
i cup raisins or currants.
Take cracked wheat mush that was left
over from breakfast and is well-cooked
and dry, mix in the other ingredients,
eggs last and well beaten, and bake in a
slack oven an hour. Maple syrup is good
sauce for it, but hard sauce (No 177) is,
the favorite.
Dinner.
August i.
Soup Croute-au-pot (8 qts. 40 cents.)
Tomatoes, cucumbers, (12 cents.)
Boiled whitefish, parsley sauce (3 Ibs.
and sauce 34 cents.)
New potatoes browned.
Tongue, corned beef, ham (nominal, 3
orders, rest left over.)
Roast beef (2 ribs cut short, 3 Ibs. 36
cents.)
Spring lamb (6 pounds and sauce 75
cents.)
Sweetbreads, au beurre noir (18 orders,
sweetbreads 5o,butter 10, olives, lemon
ii ; 71 cents.)
Ragout of veal, a la Julienne (7 orders
1 6 cents.)
Green peas 15, beets 4, cabbage 10,
succotash 15, rice 5, potatoes 12 (60 cts.)
Boiled lemon pudding (No. 827 ; 3 Ibs.
with sauce 27 cents. )
Ripe gooseberry pie (3 pies 27 cents. )
Tea, ice cream (2 qts. and freezing 60
cents.)
Chocolate eclairs (No. 296; 24 small
38 cents .)
Cake, ripe fruit, cheese, crackers, (21
cents.)
Milk, buttermilk, cream (40 cents. )
Butter, bread, coffee, tea (38 cents. )
Total $ 5 .95 ; 46 persons, 13 cents a
plate .
The dinner above prepared for 46, par-f
taken by only 37 ; the others away on
summer rambles.
821 Croute-r.u-Pot Soup.
Crust-pot or crust soup ; a good soup
of mixed vegetables and small toast.
Make the vegetable soup No. 140 and
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
10?
add tomatoes, or the tomato soup No.
1 66, and add more vegetables. Cut
some slices of bread extremely thin and
then in small pieces and toast them in
the 9ven. Drop a few in each plate when
serving.
822 Boiled Whitefish, Parsley Sauce.
Set on the poissoniere or fish-kettle
half-full of water, put in an onion stuck
with cloves, a bayleaf, salt, a handful of
parsley and half cup vinegar. When it
boils put in the fish on the moveable
drainer bottom and boil gently about half
an hour. Slide off the drainer on to a
dish. Serve by cutting portions with a
broad fish slice. Parsley sauce and new
potatoes in the same plate.
823 Parsley Sauce.
Make good butter sauce (No. 573)and
add to it a cupful of chopped parsley
while at boiling heat.
824 Sweetbreads au Beurre Noir
Some epicures, apparently have discov-
ered an agreeable new zest in butter
browned by frying, for it has been em-
ployed as a flavoring in sweets as well as
in meat sauces. The English call it nut
brown butter. Prepare the sweetbreads
by boiling and pressing and when cold
slice thinly, season and dip both sides in
flour and have them ready in a pan.
Shortly before dinner make a cupful of
butter hot in a frying pan. While it is
frothy and beginning to brown lay in the
floured sweetbreads and give them time
to get brown on both sides . Serve when
done with a little of the butter upon them,
two or three olives and quartei of lemon
in the dish.
825 Ragout of Veal, Julienne.
A ragout is a mixture of meats and
ther edibles cut small in a sauce. Elab-
orate mixtures of this sort are some-
oimes served like a sauce to larger meats,
and again, are served in this way. Cut
a piece of veal into large dice and a kid-
ney and slice or two of salt pork into
pieces only half as large. Stir them over
the fire in a saucepan with a spoonful
of fat or oil until they are slightly browned,
then drain off all the fat throw in a few
sliced mushrooms, a sprinkling of onion
and garlic and pour in enough Spanish
sauce to cover, or, if no sauce ready use
light brown gravy.
For the border cut Julienne vegetables
as if for soup, boil them, drain, mix in a
white sauce (some of the same made_ for
the fish) and put a spoonfulin each dish,
making a hollow with the spoon and the
ragout in the middle.
A Saratoga potato slicer is a help in
cutting Julienne, which is rather a ted-
ions operation without. The thin slices
can be laid together and shreded finely.
826 Succotash.
Corn and beans mixed together is
called succotash; butter beans is the
kind preferred but all sorts of green gar-
den beans are used. Season as corn
alone would be seasoned, with a little
sauce made of milk, butter and salt, or,
with salt alone.
827 Boiled Lemcn Pudding.
A lemon suet pudding; pale yellow,
rich.
2 cups flour y?. pound.
2 cups minced suet ^pound.
2 solid cups minced bread 1 / 2 pound.
y 2 cup sugar
2 lemons.
2 eggs .
2 cups milka pint.
Yz teaspoon soda.
Same of salt.
Make the bread crumbs fine by grating
or mincing. Grate the lemon rinds into
it, put soda in flour, mix dry articles to-
gether, wet with the eggs and milk and
stir up thoroughly. Tie up in pudding
bag or mould and boil 2 hours. Cost
of pudding 21 cents for 3 pounds or two
quarts.
828- Tea Ice Cream.
Can only be made with pure sweet,
cream as it is not good with custard or
COOKING fOR PROFIT.
starch, but fine if made right. Sweeten
2 quarts of cream with 2 cups sugar and
add i cup strong tea made as for diinking
and freeze as usual.
Dinner.
August 2.
Soup Consomme Calcutta (6 quarts
35 cents.)
Sliced tomatoes and cucumbers (on ta-
ble ;io cents.)
Fillets of sole, a la tartare (5 pounds
grass and iauce 70 cents.)
Potatoes duchesse .
Corned beef and cabbage (2 Ibs and
cabbage 21 cents.)
Roast beef (from previous day and i
Ib 13 cents.
Spring lamb, mint sauce (fore quarter
6 Ibs 75 cents.
Veal with dressing (shoulder boned, 3
Ibs net and dressing 45 cents .)
Scrambled sweetbreads, puree of peas
(part charged yesterday ; 20 cents.)
Turnips mashed 5, rice 5, string beans
4, corn 12, tomatoes 10, potatoes 12 (48
cents.)
Pineapple fritters (2 cans pineapple 50,
batter, frying ro, sauce 7, 30 fritters 67
cents.)
Raspberry tarts (small open pies, purl
paste, cut in three ; 18 orders 27 cents.)
Vanilla jelly (i qt 25 cents.)
Chocolate ice cream (3 pints cream, i
pint milk 2 oz chocolate etc, 60 cents.)
Cakes assorted (i Ib 10 cents)
Milk, cream, buttermilk (40 cents.)
Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, condi-
ments (38 cents.)
Coffee, tea, butter, bread, sngar (32
cents.)
Total $6,36; 43 persons, nearly 15
cents a plate.
omitted; for a light brown color is to be
obtained by some means and meat ex-
tract is the best where a choice of mate-
rials for soup making is not offered.
The consomme having been prepared
rub some tomatoes through a coarse
strainer, drain away part of the juice and
simmer down the pulp until it is thick;
add a teaspoon of curry powder and a
9d pinch of cayenne and salt. Drop
a little into the consomme on serving in
the plates, without mixing them .
830 Fillets of Sole, a la Tartare.
The sole is a flat-fish much esteemed
in the seaports where it is khown and
often represented by some good substitute
in the interiors where it is not known.
The fillets are the boneless strips of fish
left when the broad spine has been cut
out and fins removed.
Roll up the thin fillets, trim one end
of the roll so that they will stand, dip in
beaten egg and cracker meal and allow
to pass inside to stick the wrap together,
set them in a baking pan, make some lard
hot and pour around the fillets and so
bake them brown in the oven. But if
you have a proper fry-basket you can fry
them in the usual manner without their
losing shape. When done drain on a
' sheet of paper laid in a pan, sprinkle
with fine salt and serve hot with some
special form of potatoes in the same plate,
and tartar sauce in a buttei chip, sepa-
rately.
829 Consomme Calcutta.
Clear consomme with a teaspoonful of
pulp of tomato curry, and cayenne (or
Tobasco or Chili sauce) in each plate.
Make and clarify the consomme ac-
cording to directons for royal at No 139
with the difference that either fowls
roasted brown or brown glaze made by
boiling down meat, or else the prepared
extract of meat should be used to make
good consomme and coloring substitutes
831 Potatoes a la Duchesse.
Take 4 or 5 potatoes out of the dinner
steamer and mash them with a seasoning
of salt, the yolk of an egg and grating of
nutmeg or pinch of ground mace. When
perfectly smooth roll it on the flour board,
cut off balls larger than ^yalnuts, flatten
and pinch them up to a thick leaf shape,
mark the tops with back of the knife, set
in a buttered pan. wash over with egg
and bake to a fine color . Serve with
fish pr with entrees, as an ornamental
garnish.
832 Scrambled Sweetbreads with
Puree of Peas.
Cut up cooked sweetbreads into large
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
104
dice and put them in a buttered pan into
about half the amount of raw eggs, or 5
eggs to a pound of sweetbreads. Grate
in a little nutmeg, add salt and pepper
and keep covered until time to cook.
Mash some green peas the greener the
better, but those left over from the pre-
vious day are as good as if newly cooked
and rub them through a strainer adding
a little hot broth or white sauce to help
pass the puree ; season and set it to get
warm.
Stir the sweetbreads and eggs over the
fire until soft cooked. Place a spoonful
of the green puree in the small dish in
the manner of a border and the scram-
bled sweetbreads in the middle.
833 Pineapale -Fritters and Sauce
Open 2 cans pineapple, save the juice
cut the larger slices in two.
For the batter :
2 cups flour.
1 small teaspoon baking powder.
2 eggs .
i cup milk or water.
i tablespoon oil or melted lard.
Pinch of salt.
Put all at once into a small pail or deep
pan and beat up with a spoon. Put in
the pineapple slices, take up well coated
with batter and drop into a kettle of hot
lard. Fry light-colored. Drain well and
break off the rough edges. Serve with
thick sauce in the dish. To have fritters
of good shape the batter should be made
thin. Too much lightness makes them
absorb grease. To have them of very
light color use water instead of milk in
the batter but some people must have
them well browned, which calls for milk
or a spoonful of syrup mixed in .
834--Pinaapple Sauce.
Half pineapple juice and half water, a
cup of sugar to 2 cups of it, and a table-
spoon of starch . Boil and color pink
with raspberry or other fruit juice. It
should be thick enough to coat over a
fritter and glaze it, and when so used the
articles are put on the bill ot fare as "pine-
apple fritcers glace."
835 Vanilla Jelly.
Sweet jelly of gelatine (No 465) made
with a little lemon juice to help in the
clarifying but without lemon pee land a
flavoring of vanilla instead. Color like
golden syrup with few drops burnt sugar
caramel. (See No 694. )
August 3.
We^ have a ne\y boarder this morning
but his meals wili not count at presenL
Early breakfast ordered for a doctor who
is going away. I hope no sickness has
broken out at our resort. My "sec" has
an unusual amount of business to talk
over with the other girls and has let the
Lyonaise potatoes burn up.
At seven o'clock a little three-year-old
comes running over the croquette ground
to tell me that the doctor has brought-her
a new brother and I ask her what she'll
take, but she says ma won't let her eat
anything before breakfast time.
There the nurse comes to borrow my
scales without saying what for.
When she brings them back she says
"just twelve pounds and only half-a-
pound to take off for the wraps. "
Now, that must be pretty good weight
for the newspaper paragraphs generally
quote them at ten pounds. You see,
MrsTingee, the effects of g9od cooking
and good feeding everything is sleek
and fat around here.
Only 37 is the house-count to-day
though it went up with the thermometer
and touched 49 during the week, and I
expect everyone will be on time to dinner
as no person in this house excnrsionize
on Sunday. If there wis not something
to expect from the advertising that is cut
it would look as though the past week was
the culmination of our season's business
and small affair it would be. But the
advertising is bound to work a change ; it
has torn up all our peace and quietness
already in one way and made great
trouble with the meals, getting them or-
dered an hour earlier or an hour later or
divided in two or three or turned into half
meal and half picnic lunch and making
dinner small and disappointing by the ab-
sence of guests,and supper large and vex-
atious through their unwonted promptness
and inexpressible appetites. For this
COOKING FOR PROFIT^
small but romantic Uintab Lake in the
State of Cornucopia is a most interesting
locality when its merits are once known.
There is no end to the places and objects
to be seen if some knowing person will
clearly point them out. The Barnacles
family will talk about these things well
enough it somebody else starts the sub-
ject but are the last people to ever think
of making any matter of local interest
known ; and you might as well look at any
old and unremarkable building in any old
and unremarkable town as to look at the
most historic pile in Europe or elsewhere
if you have not a guide book or other
informant to awaken your imagination
and interest by showing wherefore the
historic pile is forever famous. So that
is about the way that our little company
got stirred up to an extent that they
cared liitle for their meals, or at least
were willing to forego a dinner or two for
the sake of an exploration, after the pa-
pers began to drop in, which contained
descriptions of "The Eyrie" and the
points of interest about Uintah Lake.
Over there by the Barnacles point you
may see in windy weather when all the
rest ot the lake is either yellow or green
through shallowness, there is an expanse
of water that remains blue almost to black-
ness ; it is the unfathomable place, the
well, the bottomless source of the waters
of the lake which has an outlet like a mill-
race but no other inlet, and as soon as
that was known there was an early break-
fast, the sailboats were brought into requi-
sition and all went, if only to drop peb-
bles and look into the depths and im-
agine, but some went to heave thelead,
and rinding no bottom ; went again next
day, and others were led off to a sequest-
ered bay tnat was covered with a magnif-
icent species of water-lily. There is
one remarkable hill on the lake shore
called Crystal Cone; it is covered with
pine and cedar and would not be ob-
served without being pointed out, yet all
the houses in this neighborhood have, as
curiosities, some specimens of the bril-
liant rock crystals that are found there
sometimes in large masses, and the Cone
is full of diminutive welis that have been
dug in search of them Among the ob-
wildemess and surrounded it with a
maze or labyrinth through which no
intruder could find the wav unless by
chance, part of which still remains; a
tortuous thicket of thorny bushes, and
near by is the remains of the log house
he lived and died in alone. The Barn-
acles family firmly believe the place
haunted and never go to that side of the
lake at night, but that- of course is non-
sense. Our people go in daytime to find
some sort of a scarce flower that he
planted here and there and as this is the
season of its blossoming they sometimes
bring home a few specimens and set in
glasses on the breakfast table .
When we had a house count of 49,
there were some disagreeable people who
could not be expected to stay long any-
where. One man and his wife made a
specialty of deriding hotels and the enter-
tainment and accommodations they of-
fer. Said he had been trying his powers
of endurance of all evils at the Hotel-
de Villa-Franca at Cabbageadia, and
made much sport of it. He did not seem
to find fault with anything here and yet
he made people feel uncomfortable and
many were glad when he and his wife
went away at the end of two days. Three
or four of the young people besides went
away Saturday evening, as this place is
intolerably dull on Sundays.
Ah, but here is worse sorrow; The
house and the guests are to lose the Col-
onel and the banker's wife and daughter
to morrow morning. They have been
the right sort of guests, evidently, for they
seemed always in the lead for pleasure.
L5tu they have been reading the adver-
tisements of other resorts very closely in
their resting spells when the papers lie on
the piazzas and in the reading room, and
they have found a place that seems to
suit their case better. So to morrow thby
go to the Rosedale house at Purple Lake
(it is in the Cashmere Vale, and the
nightingales sing round it all the day long
so the advertisements say) but they
promise the company to come back again
before the season ends.
That is early breakfast Monday morn-
ing for the friends who will go to see
them off, and at night comes off another
jects of sentimental interest the chief is j birthday supper this time it is for the
the half-buiit and now decayed chateau
which a certain singular and melancholy
German baron began to build in the
lady hostess and must be fine. I have a
i3-pound rich fruit cake made some days
ago to be old enough to cut to morrow,
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
106
for fruit cakes of the richest sorts are not
good until a week after baking.
836 Hich Fruit Cake or Black Cake.
This is the kind of cake or rather, one
of the kinds that can be kept for years
without detriment to the cake. Some
caterers have had it mentioned among
their specialties as "grooms cake, 3 years
old"
Prepare the fruit first :
2^ pounds raisins 6 heaped cups,
2^ pounds currants same.
\y z pounds citron shred fine 4 cups.
2 heaping tablespoons mixed ground
spices cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and
mace.
i small cup strong black -coffee.
i Sail cup dark molasses.
Same of brandy.
A small addition of almonds, nuts or
cut figs can be mixed in if wished, and
a spoonful of lemon extract.
Then mix the cake batter:
14 ounces su^ar 2 cups.
14 ounces butter same if pressed.
10 eggs.
18 ounces flour 4 large cups.
Mix up same as pound cake, the sugar
and butter together first, then eggs 2 at a
time, then flour. After the flour, put in
the 2 ounces spices, coffee, molasses,
brandy and lemon extract. The batter
is quite thin, but no matter. Mix flour
in the fruit to dust it well, then stir up
all together.
Take a mould that holds at least 6 qts.
or two moulds of 4 quarts each, line them
with greased paper, put in the cake and
wrap other papers around the outside
and tie on to guard the cake against too
much heat in baking. Bake from 2 to 3
hours. The raisins ought to be stoned
or; if there is nobody to do that, cut them
in two, but not mince them small, as that
spoih the appearance of the cake.
Cost of large fruit cake, about 15 cents
a pound.
Note. The above has been proven a
valuable receipt about Christmas and par-
tv times but as it makes a cake so nearly
all fruit it will bear a little thinning down
with moro cake batter for most occasions.
I make twice the amount of pound-cake
mixture, use a little of it as pound or jelly
cake and put the specified amount of
fruits in what remains or mix them with-
out taking any out; it is a rich cake siiil,
only of diffierent degrees ; and if they are
temperance people and will not buy
brandy put in another spoonful of spices
and the cake will be just as good as if the
brandy was put in and baked out of it.
Cost as above with prices as quoted at
this place, 14 pounds including one coat
thick icing $1.85.
Dinner.
August 3.
Soup-Consomme, chatelaine (6 qts.
40 cents.)
Tomatoes and cucumbers (on table 10
cents.)
Flounder a ITtalienne (4 Ibs. gross and
sauce 45 cents).
Potato croquettes.
Boiled ham and tongue (nominal, left
for cold).
Roast beef, (i rib 3 Ibs 39 cents.)
Braised brisket of veal, mareschale
(3 Ibs. 36 cents).
Lamb cutlets, a la Nelson (14 orders,
2 Ibs. and trimmings, 48 cents).
Rissole ttes, a la Marseillaise, (12 orders
26 cents).
Baked tomatoes 15, onions in cream
10, rice 4, beans 4, cabbage 8, potatoes
16, (57 cents).
Queen pudding with cream, (No. 845; 3
qts. or 4^3 Ibs. 35 cents).
Blackberry pie (2 pies large, 20 cents).
Bisque of pineapple icecreamlNo. 206;
2 qts i and freezing 65 cents.)
Cakes assorted' (15 cents).
Nats, raisins, cheese, crackers, condi-
ments, (37 cents).
Milk, buttermilk, cream, (46 cents) .
Butter, bread, coffee, tea, sugar, 38
cents.
Total $5,57, 37 persons; 15 cents a
plate.
837 Consomme Chatelaine
Like consomme royal with minced
shalots and mushrooms in the custards.
Make and clarify the consomme as at
No. 139; there ought to be a fowl roasted
brown and then boiled in it, otherwise
add extract of meat for richnes3 and
color.
Mince an equal quantity of butto
T07
COOKING fOR PROFIT.
mushrooms and young onions, about y 2
cup of each ; break 3 eggs in a pan, add
a spoonful of milk or both and the
minced ingredients, season, stir up, put
in a buttered small pan or mould and
cook by steaming. When the custard
is done and cold cut out shapes ether
like corks or plain squares, rut half a
dozen in each plate when the consomme
is served.
838 Flounder a' la Italienne.
The flounder is a flat fish about same
size as the sole, common and quite cheap
in the seaports.
Cut in pieces across the fish and re-
move the dark skin; cook it the same as
at No. 184. Serve with brown Italian
sauce and a potato croquette in the
same plate.
839 Potato Croquettes.
Take 4 or 5 potatoes out of the dinner
steamer and mash them with salt, the
yolk of an egg, or two, and pinch of
ground mace "or nutmeg and if quite dry
add a little butter. Roll on the flour
board, cut off balls larger than walnuts,
roll round, bread them in eg? and
cracker meal and fry to a handsome
light brown same as dauphine. They
can be made in other shapes but the
round is the quickest.
840 Braised Brisket of
Marechale.
Veal
To braise or braze meat is to cook in
a brazier or covered pot with live coals
on top. It can be done nearly as well in
deep baking pan in the oven if covered
with buttered paperwhich will ^ stand a
good deal of heat without burning and
keeps the steam in the meat. Saw the
breast of veal in strips across the ribs,
put them in the pan with some soup
stock, vegetables and garden herbs and
salt and cook with the paper cover on in
the oven for an hour and a half. Have
it so that the liquor is dried down to
glaze that sticks to the pan and to the
meat. Tak n the meat out, pour off the
fat and boil up some Spanish sauce in
the pan, if you have it, if not use water;
strain and use as gravy to the meat and
serve browned potatoes in the same plate.
841 Lamb Cutlets, a la Nelson.
Cutlets spread with a highly flavored
mince in stiff sauce, dredged with bread
crumbs and baked brown.
Prepare the cutlets (chops) as for
broiling, lay in a pan and bake half-
done so that thev will retain their shape
afterwards.
Mince an ounce each of ham, mush-
rooms, young onions, little barsiey andl
crush a clove of garlic ana mince it
with the rest. Take a spoonful each^
of flour and butter, stir them over the-
fire and add water to make a sauce
thick as paste; stir the minced ingre-
dients in. Spread a teaspoonful on>
each cutlet, round it over and cover
with bread crumbs or cracker meal and
brown them in the oven. Serve a spoon-
ful of Allemande sauce in the disnand
the cutlet in it and garnish with a strip
of toast.
84-2 Sauce Aliemande.
Take chicken or veal broth boiled
down rich and strained through a iA ap-
kin and pour it to a roux of Gutter and
flour made hot over the fire as if mak-
ing butter sauce.
When thin enough let it slowly boil
at the side and skim off the butter that
rises while the sauce is becoming thick-
er by reduction. Shortly before it .is
wanted mix the yolk of an egg with it
carefully, without curdling the yolk with
too much heat, and add the juice of
half a lemon. Allemande sauce is Ger-
man sauce
843 Rissolettes a la Marseillaise.
Picked fish and cheese pounded to-
gether, rolled up in pie paste and fried .
Take cold whitefisn or any other that
is free from bones, and half as much
cheese, mince, and then pound them to-
gether to a sort of paste and season with
salt and pepper.
Roll out a piece of good pie paste very
SAJV 7RANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
io9
thin, cut out with a biscuit cutter, make
little turnovers or other shapes such as
long rolls with a spoonful of the fish mix-
ture inside and the edges of the paste
wetted with egg to make them adhere.
Drop the rissolettes into the same kettle
of hot lard the potato croquettes are to
be fried in. Take out while still light-
colored and place on paper in a hot pan
to absorb every particle of grease. Serve
one or two to each dish with a green bor-
der of fried parsley or a green puree, or
chopped yolk of egg for ornament. Mar-
seilles is a seaport and great place for fish
dinners hence the names.
Use a large pan that the pudding m ay
be shallow and cut out the better for it.
844-Baked Tomatoes.
If not intelligently managed, baked to-
matoes are sure to be a failure through
all dissolving into liquid. Without peel-
ing, cut off a slice of the top and scoop
out the inside with a teaspoon into a
strainer that will let the surplus juice
flow away. Chop the pulp, add bread
crumbs on top and bake in a buttered
pan.
845 Queen Puddirg.
This is known by half a dozen different
names it looks well and is a favorite
kind. It is a bread custard with jelly
spread over the top after baking and
meringue (frosting) upon that like a lemon I
pie,
i pressed-m quart bread crumbs 4
cups.
4 cups milk.
% cup butter, melted.
y^ cup sugar.
4 yolks eggs.
i cup fruit jelly.
4 whites and y 2 cup sugar for the frost-
ing.
Have the bread very finely minced,
mix the first five ingredients together and
bake until the bread custard thus made
is set in the middle. Spread the jelly
over the top and set in the oven again.
Whip the whites firm enough to bear up
an egg, add the sugar, spread it on top of
the hot jelly and finish baking with the
oven door partly open as too much heat
spoils the meringue . Costs about 35
-cents,but is enough for thirty people.
(4 Ibs,
Dinner.
August 4.
Soup Potage a la Reine (5 qts 40
cents.)
^Fillets of trout, a la Chambord
with forcemeat etc. 70 cents.)
Potatoes, Monaco.
Boiled ham with spinach (3 orders ham,
9 spinach 13 cents.)
lloast beef (i rib, 2 ibs net 28 c.nts.)
Mutton a la Bretonne (No 849 shoulder
2 Ibs and beans 30 cents.)
Chicken pie (5 chickens $1.00, with crust
etc, $1.20.)
Green peas 15, mashed turnips 5 rice 5,
potatoes 15 (40 cents.)
Birdsnest pudding with cream (No 851;
about 28 cents.)
Lemon pie (No 852 ; 3 medium size 30
cents.
Vanilla ice cream (2 qts pure, and
freezing 65 cents.)
Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, pickles,
(35 cents.)
Cake assorted kinds d Ib 10 cents.)
Milk, buttermilk, cream (45 cents.)
Butter, bread, coffee, tea, sugar (43
cents.)
Total $5.97; 35 persons; 17 cents a
plate.
846 Potage a h Reine.
Reine is the French word for queen,
this would therefore be in English
"Queen's Soup."
It is a puree soup like the potato cream
and puree of beans, but thickened, in-
stead, with the paste- or puree of pounded
chicken and rice.
Take :
3 quarts chicken broth.
4 solid cups chicken meat,
i heaped cup boiled rice.
i quart cream or good milk.
Procure 4 cupfuls of clear chicken meat
tender enough to mash to a paste, either
from two or three young chickens roasted,
or i large fowl boiled. Mince it fine,
pound it smooth, add the rice while
pounding, pour in some of the broth to,
moisten it, then rub it through a perfor-
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
ated tin gravy strainer or a sieve.
The chicken (or veal) broth should have
a small bunch of parsley, i stalk of cel-
ery, a small piece ot onion and piece of
broken nutmeg boiled in it, and if ob-
tainable a sprig of green thyme, and af-
ter that be strained. Mix it boiling hot
with the puree of chicken and rice ; set
on bricks or at the back of the stove to
keep hot without boiling, and boil the
cream separately and pour it in- at last.
Serve with soufflee crouton, No. 736.
Another way is to make a cream of
rice with chicken meat in it cut small,
and no croutons.
847 Fillets of Redfish a la Chambord
Individual.
Thin fillets spread with a paste or force-
meat containing lobster, rolled up and
baked and served with a lobster sauce .
Chambon is the name of a part of
France on the sea coast and also a count's
title. The redfish is from the Florida
coast where it is also called red grouper .
Slice the fish lengthwise into fillets thin
and broad like fillets of sole and as small
as possible, pound a quarter can of lob-
ster to a paste, add as much panada
(soaked and squeezed bread) season it,
add a raw yolk. Spread the fillets with
the mixture thinly, roll them np, and lay
in a pan and bake with butter and water
iust enough to keep them moist, and
baste twice. They will cook in about 30
minutes .
Pound the reddest pieces of lobster
meat and rub it through a sieve, mix it
with a little good butter sauce ; slice in 3
or 4 mushrooms and as many shrimps,
if at hand, or a tew pieces of lobster cut
in dire and season with pepper and lemon
juice. Serve a fillet to each plate with
sauce and some special form of potato
in the same.
848 Potatoes a la Monac*.
Cut cores out of raw potatoes with an
apple corer or column cutter, and slice
them into thick lozenge shapes like gun-
wads. Boil first, then fry in a kettle of |
lard. Before serving, shake them about i
in a pan with a lump of butter, dredge i
with salt and fine minced parsley. Serve I
with fish . Monaco is the name of a ger- |
man resort, a sort of Saratoga.
84-9 Mutton a la Bretonne.
Mutton and beans. The French
equivalent for our pork and beans. The
frequency of the sign in the windows of
French restaurants seems to indicate that
it is in demand at least for a lunch dish.
Take a shoulder of mutton and remove
the bone by cutting close, laying out the
meat like a thick steak. To season it
mince one onion and crush a clove of
garlic with the side of your knife and
mix it in and stew over the meat, dredge
thyme or sage, salt and pepper, roll up
and tie and then braise the meat in
a covered pan with broth or water at first,
allowing it to dry down and brown like a
roast at last.
Boil two cups of white beans in the
usual way while the mutton is braising.
Take the mutton out of the saucepan
and cook a little minced ham and onion
in the gravy that remains, then put in the
cookeoT beans and shake up.
Serve beans in the dish with a cut of
the roll of mutton on top.
850 Chicken Pie, American Style.
When you make chicken pie cut down
the quantities of all other meats and
cut down the vegetables and leave out
the third entree altogether that there may
be afforded enough of this and without
haying to serve the roughest pieces of
chicken . It is one of the favorite dishes
alike in the largest hotels and the small-
est and it is poor policy to make it a dis-
appointment in either place. Let there
be a surplus of the liquor the chicken is
stewed in left over to pour into the pie as
it dries down while dinner is going on,
for the cry is " still they come*' no, not
that but "plenty of gravy and more of
the crust."
, A large chicken can be cut or chopped
into 18 pieces for stew or pie but such
pieces are not able to make you any rep-
utation. If the back bones and necks
are left out to be used in soup or other
ways it may take another chicken to make
the pie large enough but after all you will
not nave to work so hard to find a piece
of the breast for the few fastidious people
who can't eat anything else.
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
Cut up five chickens making 6 choice
cuts of each without counting the back
or neck ; allow about ^ pound salt pork
cut in strips, a heaped 'tablespoon
minced onion, same of salt, a teaspoon of
white pepper, some chopped parsley,
flour to thicken the liquor and about 3
pounds short pie crust.
Boil the chickens in water enough to
coyer, time according to age; young
chicken's less than y 2 hour; old fowls 3
hours ; with the seasoning of salt, pork
and onions. Thicken the liquor, add
parsley, dip the chicken into a baking pan
dredge over with pepper and flour and
cover with a thin pie crust. Bake ^
hour. Cut in squares.
There should not be gravy enough in
the pan to drown the crust before it can
bake the gravy can be poured in after-
wards. Baking powder crust can be made
good with care but seldom is, for it rises
too thick and absorbs all the sauce. A
short paste is better.
851 Birds Nest Pudding.
An egg batter pudding with apples.
Probably gets its name from its appear-
ance when baked in round pan.
1 large cup flour 5 ounces.
3 cups milk i y 2 pints.
2 heaped tablespoons sugar.
Butter size of an egg.
3 eggs. Little salt.
Apples enough for a 4 quart pan.
Sugar, butter and cinnamon or nut-
meg for the apples.
Pare and core the apples enough to
cover the pan bottom ; fill core holes with
sugar and some butter, water to barely
wet the pan, cover with greased paper
and bake until done and the syrup dried
down. Mix the batter smoothly, as if for
batter cakes, pour it over the apples and
bake about y 2 hour more . Pure cream
sweetened is a good sauce, any other
will answer if cream is not to be hid.
852 Lemon Pie Meringued.
Rule : One lemon and two eggs to each
pie.
1 cup sugar.
2 cups water or millr.
2 lemons or 3 if small.
y? cup flour.
6 yolks of eggs .
Put the su^ar in a saucepan and grate
lemon rinds into it, squeeze the juice,
add the pint of water and boil. Mix the
2 ounces flour with water and thicken the
boiling syrup . Take it off and pour it
gradually to the beaten yolks. Fill
three pies and bake.
Whip the 6 whites, add 6 tablespoons
sugar, spread over the pies while they are
still hot in the oven and bake light-col-
ored, A richer appearance may be given
by dredging granulated sugar over the
frosting before baking ; it makes a crust .
Too much baking will spoil the frosting,
causing it to fall ; also, be caretul to get
about a tablespoon of sugar to each
white of an egg.
853 Ga-antins en Ballev e
A galantine (not gelatine as it often
mistakenly appears in printed bills) is a
boned fowl or bird of any sort ; it is en
bellevue when it is encased in jelly and
ornamented. Galantines are maae the
same of either chickens or turkeys, ac-
cording to the following directions.
Singe and pick over a young turkey or
pullet, and without otherwise opening it,
cut the skin along the whole length of the
back and with the point of a sharp knife
go on cutting the meat from the bone on
both sides until the hip joints and wings
are reached. Chop through these with
the heavy end of a carving knife and con-
tinue cutting close to the breast bone un-
til the frame is entirely removed without
the skin being cut through.
After that, bone the legs and wings
half way and chop off the rest. The
meat of the legs and wings is to be
tucked into the body, which, when done
up, will be a smooth cushion shape .
Then wash the turkey in cold water and
dry it on a cloth. Spread it out with the
skm side down on the table and cover
with the forcemeat ; draw the two sides
together, sew with twine, put it into a
pudding cloth previously buttered and tie
and pin it securely. Boil the turkey in
salted broth or water containing the
bones and any other trimmings left from
the forcemeat besides, for from two to
three hours, according to size.
When the boned and stuffed turkey or
chicken has been sufficiently boiled, press
Ill
COOKING fOR PROFIT.
it, still in the cloth, into a pan or mold,
and there let it remain with a weight on
top until cold. Into whatever shape it
may be, there should be another vessel a
size larger precisely like it, and the boned
turkey or chicken, being taken out of the
first mold, and the cloth taken off and the
surface wiped clean with a napkin dipped
in hot water, is then to be placed in the
larger one; the space is then filled up
with aspic jelly, poured in nearly cold,
and when set, the mold being dipped a
few moments in warm water, the galan-
line can be tu.ned out onto its dish and
decorated.
The way to get a coating of jelly all
over the galantine is to stamp out star
shapes from thick slices of white turnip
or other material and lay them on the
bottom of the larger mould. They hold
up the galantine from the bottom for the
jelly to run under, and show up as orna-
ments.
Decorate with blocks of colored jelly
set around and upon it, and with orna-
mental silver skewers, with lemons cut
like baskets, and with flowers.
Two fair-sized turkeys, prepared as
above, either stuffed with forcemeat or
with the meat of another turkey or chick-
en, vdll slice into fifty plates.
854 Stuffing for Galantines.
Where boned turkey and chicken is
served so frequently fo* lunch that it is
no rarity, the easiest ana quickest way of
stuffing may perhaps be as good as the
best; a boned tutkey then becomes a
fraud, if considered as turkey while it
may be very good if regarded as sausage,
for the most available material is a com-
mon sausage meat to fill up the space
formerly occupied by the frame of the
fowl. Next to that and perhaps the oft-
enesc used is a mixture of selected lean
veal and fat salt pork minced into a sort
of veal sausage, well seasoned and
served up in the turkey. That can be
made by any person without special di-
recLions.
Another and better way is to bone two
turkeys or a turkey and chicken and put
the two in one, being careful to have
the inside chicken or small turkey quite
young and tender. Season well without
cutting or mincing, lay one on the other,
place a few strips of fat pork about as
thick as a pencil, lengthwise, and half
a dozen hard-boiled yolks, gather up and
sew in shape. When cooked, pressed
and sliced this will be all turkey or chick-
en and better liked than the sausage busi-
ness.
For something more elaborate for a
little party supper or lunch the following
may be relied upon to make a nice dish,
worth ornamenting.
855 Forcemeat far Boned Turkey
and Ci icken
The quantity of this receipt is sufficient
for one medium-sized turkey that will
slice into twenty-five individual dishes.
For a large chicken the amounts may b
one-half. This makes about four pounds
of choice meat, in addition to the turkey.
2 hens, boiled tender.
6 ounces fat salt pork a cup.
6 ounces butter a cup.
6 ounces white bread crumbs 2 cups.
2 raw eggs.
8 hard boiled eggs.
i cup broth or water.
i lemon.
Nutmeg or thyme.
Salt and pepper.
Take the dark meat of the fowls, cut it
in very small dice and keep it separate .
Take off the white meat, chop fine and
then pound to .a soft paste. Throw in
the fat pork minced, the seasonings and
the bread crumbs and mix together, and
soften the butter and stir in. Mix the
two raw eggs with the cup of broth, add
juice of lemon, and with this mixture
moisten the forcemeat. It is now ready
for use.
Strew over the turkey about half the dark
meat mince, and over that spread half the
white forcemeat. Cut the yolks of the
hard boiled eggs in quarters and scatter
some over the layer of forcemeat, then
the rest of the minced dark meat, the re-
maining forcemeat and eg-.? yolks. Do
up the boned turkey thus filled as above
directed.
When sliced cold the above shows little
dark squares set in a white meat, all
spotted through with the yellow egg
yolks.
Cost of material ; 2 fowls 50, pork 5
fRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
112
butter 8, eggs 13, bread, lemon and sea-
sonings 4; 80 cents.
856 Cost of Ga antine of Turkey cr
Chicken.
Twenty cents a pound for material is
the lowest that boned turkey and chick-
en can be expected to cost, and if prices
rule high the cost may be sometimes
twice that sum. A 14 pound turkey
(plucked but not drawn) may be dressed
boned and then done up with 6 pounds
of raw veal forcemeat or sausage meat
inside and after cooking and pressing it
will scarcely weigh 10 pounds altogether
a loss of over half; so that if the tur-
key be bought at 12^ the galantine will
cost 25 cents a pound at the lowest; and
we find that our chicken galantine con-
taining one-half the amount of force-
meat, (No. 855) and a 3^ pound fowl
bought at 10 cents a pound, making a
total of 75 cents, weighs but 3^ pounds
at last and has therefore cost over 21
cents a pound for material. The great-
est shrinkage takes place in the boiling.
Such is th calculation to be made
when contracting for a party.
On the other hand it is to be considered
the galantine is subject to no further
depreciation In our 3^ pounds are 56
ounces ; about 2 ounces make as large a
slice us anybody wants, being about 25
plates for 75 cents, or 3 or 4 cents a per- I
son. The aspic jelly makes a separate I
calculation ; it is not essential, but to be
charged to ornamentation . It is, how-
ever cheaper by the pound than the meat
and at a large party may be converted to
profit by an expert carver.
857 ohicken Salad.
. The same as No . 150. Make up the
form in a round salad bowl, place a heart
lettuce on top, and quarters of eggs in
close order around the base.
ornamental purposes. Eggs are turned
blue and made to look as if bad by too
long boiling ; when they are fairly hard-
boiled put them immediately in cold wa^
ter and there will be no discoloration.
858-Artinculti.gEggs.
Hold the hard-boiled egg in a napkin
in your hollowed hand while you cut it
in quarters lengthwise, and avoid break-
ing the yolks and spoiling the eggs for
859 Art in Mincing Parsley.
Chop parsley very fine, inclose it in a
clean towel and wring by twisting it until
all the juice is expressed. The parsley
is then a green dust which when scattered
upon a dish will not fall all in one spot
but will divide as easily as grains of col-
ored sugar. For salad ornamentation
dip round slices of lemon in the green
parsley dust and border the dish.
Birthday Party Supper.
MENU.
Galantine of Chicken en Bellevue.
Pain de Foies-gras.
Toasted Rusks. Sandwiches.
Chicken Salad.
Ornamented Fruit Cake.
Charlotte Russe. Orange Cake.
Meringues a la Gelee.
Frozen Bisque of Preserved Ginger.
Lemonade. Coffee.
There were but 21 or 22 persons to be
provided for so the difficulty in such a
case is to provide a small enough quan-
tity of each dish and yet make a table
that is pleasing to look at, for they that
come to the supper are not really hungry
and only care to try whatever is new ; at
the same time you do not like to ask
them to a Barmecide's feast of empty
plates and nothing else. There is noth-
ing for it but to utilize most of the sur-
plus, such as cakes, for the next dinner
'table, make as little as possible of liver
pate and chicken salad and submit to a
little waste in other respects, knowing
that the Ice cream and meringues will be
sufficiently well patronized and the large
fruit cake will be wanted to be sent away
in presents to absent friends.
Tost of material:
Galantine fowl 75, jelly 2 qts 55 (1.30)
Pain de foies-gras 45, jelly 25 (70)
Rusks (No. 277) and sandwiches,
(2scents).
Chicken salad, (No. 857), fjo cents).
COOKING fOR PROflT.
Ornamented fruit cake (No. 856), (2.00)
Charlotte-Russe of 2 qts Bavarian and
cake, (55 cents).
Orange cake, (No. 867), (35 cents).
Meringues, 25 (No. 460) wi:h jelly
(45 cents).
Bisque of ginger, ice cream, (No.
207), (60 cents).
Lemonade and coffee, (35 cents).
Total $7,25; 22 persons, ^3 cents a
plate.
860 Pan de Foies-Gras.
It means loaf or cake of poultry livers,
and is of course, a high -flavored dish of
which a small quantity suffices, to be eat-
en with thin sliced bread as potted tongue
or ham would be. Pain is the French
word for bread or loaf and seems to be
used in the same sense as ^ve use the
word cheese in head-cheese, liver-cheese
and the like. In other words this is a
form of liver paste, or pate-de-foie-gras,
turned out of its mould and incased in
jelly by the same method as for boned
chicken. Take the ingredients in two
parts and it does not seem so formidable.
y pound chicken livers.
6 ounces fat hen or salt pork.
2 ounces lean cooked ham.
y 2 cup sherry.
1 bay leaf, pepper, little mixed ground
spices, salt.
6 ounces panada ( bread soaked and
squeezed dry.)
2 raw e/gs.
4 hard boiled yolks.
l /2 a corned tongue cooked.
borne chopped mushrooms and aspic
jelly.
Steep the livers in water to whiten them.
If the poultry livers are short weight use
call's liver to make the amount. Set all
the ingredients of the first part to sim-
mer in a saucepan with a lid on the back
part of the range and let remain till a con-
venient time, 2 or 3 hours. Then mash to
paste. The livers should be nearly dry in
the saucepan but not fried or browned.
Mix the raw eggs with the panada and
3 {.ints and cover the bottom with very
thin slices of fat salt pork, press in the
liver paste, put on top a bay leaf and
slice or two of pork and a buttered pa-
per over that . Set the mould in a pan
of water in the pven and bake about
an hour. Turn it out of the pan or
mould when cold, remove the fat and
it is ready for use, but if to be set on
the table whole, proceed as for a galan-
tine of chicken and encase it in aspic
jelly.
Cost of material [about 45 cents for
2*/2 pounds or about the same as boned
chicken.
861 Charlotte Ku.se Tfcree Ways.
It is an outside casing of cake filled
with a thick cream, which ought to be
real cream thick enough to whip to froth ;
if such cannot be had, a thin cream can
be made firm by adding gelatine to it ;
and if no cream at all then make the
same thing of milk and whip it up light
as explained at No. 865.
There are many ways of putting up a
charlotu .
i. Procure 3 or 4 dozon lady fingers
(No. 4) and a tin shape, which is nothing
more than a hoop of tin with strai2;ht-up
sides, like a three pint milk cup would
be without a bottom. It may be either
round or oval according to the dish to be
used to set the charlotte on the table.
Cut the edges of the lady-fingers straight,
wet them with white of egg and line the
shape with them set upright and the
shape being on the dish. Whip the
cream to firm froth, sweetening and fla-
voring at the same time ; fill up the shape
with u and let it remain in a cold place
till wanted, then carefully lift off the tin
shape and the cream will keep the form
together ii it was double cream at the start
that is cream that has stood on the
milk two days before skimming.
If not sure of the cream being firm
enough, then add gelatine according to
directions for Bavarian cream.
There is no covering of cake in this,
but the surface of the cream may be or-
namented with some of the same cream
in a cornet or ornamenting tube the
these with the pounded liver and press
through a seive. Cut up the tongue, i same as if it were icing,
yolks and few mushrooms and mix them 2. When a shorter
in the liver paste.
Take a pan or mould that holds over
way must be
adopted bake a good sponge cake in a
round mould. No. 281 is as good as any
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
114
with a liberal allowance of powder. Then
cut out the inside to use as cake and take
the shell or crust to fill with whipped
cream. If the cake is evenly baked of
light color this way does very well ; and
where the charlotte is to be sliced and
served individually, as in most hotels,
the long and narrow moulds such as
loaves of bread are baked in may be
found most suitable, as the charlotte can
then be cut across.
3. Another way to be adopted when
the charlotte-russe is to be set on the ta-
ble whole, as for a party supper, is to
take a deep, plain mould or a tin pan,
cover the bottom with the thinnest sliced
sponge cake or lady-fingers and line the
sides with the same, fill with cream stif-
fened with gelatine, keep cold and when
set, turn it out of the mould bringing the
b9ttom on top and ornament that either
with whipped cream piled up and spotted
with strawberries or else with only a coat
of icing and a border. Cream stiffened
with gelatine is called Bavarian cream
see receipts below.
862 Individual Charlotte-Russe. Six
Ways.
1. It is best t9 make individual char-
lottes where the time allows, for hotel din-
ners or parties. In some places paper
cases can be bought and the charlottes
made and served in them. Make the
same mixture as for sponge roll, very
thin, and cut in bands and pieces that
will fit inside; then fill with whipped
cream. Some of the largest hotels serve
them in these paper cases always.
2. If you have no ready-made cases
you can make some of white unruled pa-
per, cutting the first piece to fit inside
a small tumbler, and then using it for a
pattern to cut the others by. Paste them
together, put in a bottom and fringe the
edges. Line with lady-fingers made
small and cut to fit; fill with whipped
cream and serve them in the cases.
3. bmall sponge cakes can be baked in
the deep mumn pans or gem pans they
are tumbler-shaped the inside cut out
to be made into pudding, and the shells
filled with cream, and sent in without a
paper case.
4. Another way and a good one is to
cut sponge-roll sheets into pieces that will
just line the inside of deep muffin rings of
the sort that have no bottom. Fill them
with cream stiffened with gelatine and
set on ice, and when cold and firm slip
them out of the rings, and serve with_ a
fine strawberry on top or ornament with
pink spots of meringue.
5-6. A good deal of variety can be
had with this form of charlotte as, some-
times, white sponge cake can be made and
filled with yellow Roman cream (No
194) or with chocolate or coffee cream,
and another time the ordinary yellow
sponge cake lining can be filled with
white cream, or, strawberry cream, etc,
863 About Whipped Cream.
Good thick cream, if cold, can be made
firm enough by beating with a wire egg
whisk to fill charlottes, or even plates
lined with a thin sheet of cake, or to
spread over a cream pie without the addi-
tion of gelatine or anything else, and
once so whipped to firmness it will not
go d9wn again as long as it is kept cold-
provided, however, that there is not
much sugar mixed with it. A half-pint
cup of good cream will increase in vol-
ume, when beaten sufficiently, to fill
about eight of the small charlotte cases
previously mentioned.
864 Bavarian Cream Best.
But whipped cream as stated in the
foregoing not being capable of carrying
much sugar or flavoring, a little gelatine
has to be added to give it substance.
Half an ounce to a quart is sufficient un-
less there is tp be an addition of some
flavoring cordial or fruit juice, when an
ounce to a quart will be the rule, and
four to six ounces of sugar. ^ No boiling
is required, but set the gelatine in half a
cup of milk or cream on the shelf of the
range where it will gradually get hot.
When it is dissolved, place the cream in
a deep pan set in ice water and pour in
the dissolved gelatine while beating. The
cream can then be put into molds, very
slightly oiled, and left to become firm, or
used to fill cases lined with cake for
charlottes.
Cost : i qt cream 20, *4 ounce gelatine
6, sugar 3, flavoring $ ; 34 cents. Makes
2 qts when whipped light ; about 18 cents
COOKING fOR PROFIT.
for each quart mould.
865 Bavarian Cream Substitute.
This is, in effect, blanc-mange whipped
up light while cooling, with the aid of
white of eggs, so that when perfectly cold
it can be sliced and shows the same
spongy texture as fine bread. It is good
to fill charlottes when pure cream cannot
be obtained, and good for dessert in
place of ice cream.
4 cups good rich milk a quart.
i small cup sugar 6 ounces.
i ounce gelatine nearly a package of
the shred kind, or 2 or \ sheets.
3 whites of eggs .
Vanil.a flavoring.
Set the milk over the fire with the
sugar and gelatine in it and stir it until
the gelatine is all dissolved. Better not
let it quite boil because sometimes milic is
curdled by the gelatine^at boiling point ;
strain it into a pan set in ice water, and
when nearly cold beat it up light. Whip
the three whites quite firm, and stir in
and continue the beating until the cream
has become nearly solid, then pour it
into moulds or into the charlotte-russe
case, which may have been prepared
previously. The flavoring extract can
be added while beating. A little salt
mixed in the ice water makes it colder
and hastens the setting of the cream.
Cost : milk 5, gelatine i oz 10, sugar 3,
flavoring 4, whites 3; 25 cents for 2
quarts.
866 -Maraschino Cream
For filling charlotte-russe or serving
instead of ice cream :
2 l / 2 pints thin cream.
i teacup maraschino.
7 ounces sugar.
i package of gelatine i ^ ounces.
Put the extia half pint of cream in a
small saucepan, and the gelatine and
sugar with it, set over the fire and beat
with the wire egg whisk till the gelatine
-is all dissolved the quicker the better.
Four the maraschino into the cold cream,
then strain in the contents of the sauce-
pan, set the whole in a pan of ice water,
and whip the cream mixture until it be-
gins to set, when pour it into the pre-
pared mould.
Maraschino is a cordial that gives a
pleasant flavor to creams and jellies. It
is kept in all first-class bars. Comes in
flasks bound in basket work. Is made by
steeping the kernels of an Italian cherry
in spirits of wine and then adding syrup.
867 Orange Cake.
White cake layers with orange -icing
(frosting). Make the best white cake,
No. 622, and bake on jelly-cake pans.
Grate the rinds of 2 or 3 oranges into 2
large cups powdered sugar. Take 3
whites of eggs in a bowl, put the flavored
sugar in, and beat with a wooden paddle
until you have a pale yellow icing firm
enough not to lun off the cake. Spread
some between the layers and the rest Aver
the top and sides.
Dinner.
August 5.
Soup consomme printanier royal (5
qts, 40 cents.)
Tomato salad (on table, 15 cents.)
Fillets of sheephead a la Horly (fish 3
IDS 24, batter frying, 20; 44 cents.)
Potatoes Julienne, corned tongue and
cabbage (25 cents.)
Roast beef (i rib, iY 2 Ibs 20 cents.)
Loin of mutton dy 2 Ibs 18 cents.)
Roulade of veal, Napolitaine (shoulder,
3 Ibs 40 cents.)
Cutlets ot minced chicken (21 orders,
equal to i fowl 55, with trimmings, frying
55 cents. )
Poultry livers in potato croustades (fil-
ling charged previous meals, 10 crous-
tades, 15 cents. )
Apricots, a la Colbert (30 orders, i can
25, rice, breading 26, sauce 4; 55 cents.)
Turnips, beans, corn, tomatoes, pota-
toes (45 cents.)
Preserved tomato tarts (8 saucer size,
cut in three, 2 Ibs tomatoes 20, crust 7 ; 27
cents.)
Lemon frozen custard (3 qts frozen, 60
cents.)
Cakes (charged other meals.)
Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, pickles
(35 cems.)
Milk, buttermilk, cream (average i^
cents each person, 44 cents.)
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
126
Bread, butter, coffee, tea, sugar (40
cents.)
Total $5 78 ; 35 persons, i6} cents a
plate.
868 Comomme Printanier Royal
It is cons9tnme royal, No. 139, with a
jardinier mixture of vegetables in it or
consomme jardiniere with custards in it,
whichever way you may choose to regard
it. Make the consomme good with roast
chicken, plenty of beef, or meat extract;
cut the vegetables as small as peas, with
a jardinier cutter if you have one at hand,
otherwise in very small dice, and have
fresh green peas and asparagus points aUo
if in season.
869 Tcmato Salad.
Take small tomatoes not ripe enough
to be soft, pare them with a very sharp
knife without scalding. Cut in quarters,
then in slices, put in a bowl with oil, vin-
egar, pepper, salt ; same as plain potato
salad, shake up, serve with border of
small lettuce leaves.
870 Fillets cf Sheephead, a la Horly.
Strips of fish fried in batter, served with
Julienne potatoes and crisp fried onions.
The sheephead is one of the best of the
Southern sea fishes ; in shape and quality-
it is very much like the black bass, and is
generally reserved for boiling. It is so |
named lor its projecting front teeth. To j
cook it a la Horly, cut it in strips size of
a finger, salt well, pepper a little. Make
a good frying batter with 2 eggs to a quart
offlour, little melted butter or oil, and
milk enough to make like thin batter-cake
mixture. Dip the pieces of fish, drop in
hot lard, fry slow enough to let get well
done, but of light color.
Slice 2 or 3 onions in rings, flour them
and fry yellow and dry, also fry a few
handfuls of Julienne potatoes. Serve a
little of each at the side of the fillet in
the same dish.
There was a duke de Horly, prominent
in the wars of the last century.
871 Ro lade of Veal, a I? Napolitaine.
Napolitaine is but another waj of say-
J ng Italian style; it means with macaroni
when it is not with Neapolitan or horse-
radish sauce. Roll up a shoulder of veal
after taking out the bone, and braise or
roast it covered with buttered jxiper.
Cook a dozen sticks of macaroni, cut
short, put in light gravy or Spanish sauce
and serve in the dish with a slice of veal
on top.
Napolitaine is the French spelling;
Neapolitan is the English; it means ot
the city of Naples in Italy.
872 Cutlets of Minced Chicken, Bor-
delaise.
2 solid cups chicken meat, or, equal to
the meat of one fowl,
i cup panada.
^ cup butter.
1 tablespoon minced onion.
2 tablespoons minced mushrooms.
2 eggs.
Thyme, parsley, pepper, salt.
Pick the chicken meat to pieces and
mince it; there should be over a pound.
Make panada by soaking white bread in
cold water and squeezing dry. Put the
butter in a frying-pan along with the on-
ions and mushrooms, and stir over the
fire a few minutes, then put in the |,anada
and when hot add the eggs and after that
the chicken and seasonings.
Let get cold in a pan, then make up
with floured hands, first in pear shapes,
small size and flatten them to look like
lamb chops. Get a piece of macaroni
for each one and insert it to look like the
bone. Dip in egg and cracker dust and
fry in lard or oil. Serve with Borde-
laise sauce in the dish and for ornament
take a small crouton of fried bread, cut
heart shaped, dip in tomato sauce, sprin-
kle with parsley dust and set in the end
of the dish.
873 Croustades of Chicken Livers.
^ livers of poultry and game being
high-flavored should be set apart for spe-
cial uses instead of being stewed promis-
cuously with the chicken, or pot-pies to
which they give a taste that may not be
to the general liking. In some of the
most elaborate ragouts of the French or-
der, these livers are used in equal parts
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
with truffles, mushrooms and wine as spe- ! the crust made short and the pies or tarts
cial flavorings . A simple brown stew of
chicken livers in meat gravy makes a good
dish served in cases made as directed in
the next article.
874 Potato ohells or Croustaries.
Make the same mashed potato prepa-
ration as for croquettes with one or two
yolks in it, take it on the pastry board with
a little flour, make a Ions roll of it, cut
off slices like common biscuits in size,
dip them in egg and cracker dust twice
over, giving them a double coating.
Then take a small cutter and mark a lid
in each one as you would in a puff-paste
tartlet. Put them in the frying basket to
fry, and only keep them in the hot lard a
short time lest they burst out of shape.
When of a good, yellow -brown color
take up, lift out the lid with a teaspoon
point and scoop out the inside, making a
crisp shell of potato to be filled with any
kina cf savory ragout or mince. After
rnakl.g the round shape once, oval and
diamond and boat shapes can be made
as well. It is work that consumes a good
deal of time not adapted for crowded
houses.
baked to dry ness in a slack oven.
877 T.ouble in Planning Dinners
875 Apricots a la Colbert
Half an apricot or peach placed
against a like amount of rice croquette
mixture, egged and breaded in the form
of a ball, and fried in a kettle of lard.
When done, light-colored, rolled in suzar
and served with sauce in the dish, made
of the apricot syrup. Make rice croquette
preparation as at No. 188, or light potato
croquette with a little sugar added.
Some of the canned apricots are firm
enough to use for this purpose. Drain
them well from the juice.
876 Preserved Tomato Tarts or
Fies.
When there are fresh tomatoes around,
perhaps already peeled and not otherwise
needed il is easy to put them in a pan
with a cup of su^ar and piece of bruised
kinder and let slowly stew down to pre-
serves. Make small open pies of them,
The last dinner was not well planned ;
there were good things in plenty but they
ought not to have met in the same bill of
fare; there were too many fries; came
near being all fried ; the fish in batter
with potatoes and onions fried, chicken
cutlets breaded and fried, croustades the
same, croutons too, and then apricots a
la Colbert. It was a mistake to have it
so, and such mistakes are being made
wherever bills of fare are written continu-
ally. \Vhen we see a bill of fare in print
in a newspaper, it generally is a model
one or tries to be so ; but models there
are few or none in actual practice. The
cook does not intend to get several dishes
of the same nature or appearance in the
same dinner and generally does not know
it till it is ^too late to make a change ;
perhaps his time for reflection was short
or he was thinking about the butchers
bill, or had found one thing he intended to
use was spoiled, and an unsuitable sub-
stitute was put in hastily. While one bill
may be all fries, perhaps another time it
will be all cream cream soup, fish with
cream sauce, macaroni a la Bechamel,
onions in cream, fried cream fritters,
cream cakes and ice cream for if there
is a pastry cook he is sure to be lucky
enough to come in with his contribution
of creams at the same time. Another
day the dinner will be all dough, with
nudel soup, fish in batter, meat pie ris-
soles or kromeskies, fritters of some kind
or pancakes and a batter pudding, or
fruit cobbler. Still again there may be a
surfeit of oysters; oysters raw, oyster
soup, fish with oyster sauce, oyster stuff-
ing in the turkey and oyster patties. So
it goes about planning a dinner. One of
Thackeray's novels has a French cheftoi
a character, who goes off and plays the
piano while composing his bill of fare and
seems ludicrous to the reader but there is
nothing extravagant about that. Most
cooks make up the bulk of the bill 9f fare
for tomorrow whilst carving or dishing
up their entrees to-day when their
j thoughts are upon the subject; but some
must no off and smoke or sit alone, and
the* e is no reason why a piano or a banjo
might not come in useful at such a time
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
and help to prevent the bad arrangement
which makes a dinner be all cream or all
dough, or of any one thing more than its
due proportion. And we have not
touched the still higher consideration of
how some dinners are all heaviness and
indigestibility, beginning with a heavy
soup and stuffed fish running on through
dishes that allow no relief by contrast to
plum pudding, mince pie and tuttifrutti ;
while others are as uniformly thin and
meagre, going from weak consomme
through water, and more water to a
finale of lemon water ice. If a piano will
help theproper planning of a dinner, ev-
ery house ought to have one.
Dinner.
August 6.
Soup Mulligatawney a la Manhattan,
(4qts 32 cents.)
Sheephead, a la Dieppaise (2 Ibs 24,
trimmings 20 ; 44 cents.)
Potatoes, serpentine.
Roast beef (i rib steak rare i Ib 15
cents .
Beef a la mode Pariessene (2 Ibs with
pork etc 33 cents.)
Veal pie, a la Fermiere (i^ Ibs veal
1 8, crust etc. 8; 26 cents.)
Cutlets of sweetbreads, Victoria (12 or-
ders, i lb sweetbreads 25, sauces, bread-
ing, frying 20; 45 cents.)
Green peas 10, cabbage 4 string beans
2, corn and rice 15, potatoes 15 (46
cents.)
Indian pudding, hard sauce (3 pts and
sauce 26 cents.)
Blackberryapple pie (2 pies large 20
cents.)
Pineapple ice (made like No. 214 with
water and whites instead of cream, 2 qts
frozen 50 cents .)
Cake assorted (15 cents.)
Nuts, raisins, cheese, pickles, condi-
ments (32 cents.)
Milk, cream, buttermilk (38 cents.)
Coffee, tea, bread, butter (24 cents.)
Total $4.46; 32 persons, 14 cents a
plate.
878 Mul igataw y a la Manhattan.
Mulligatawny soup is always a curry
soup although it may be changed in
other respects. This remark is prompted
by the mistake some cooks are making
of giving the name to a soup made of to-
matoes and vegetables without curry
powder. Mulligatawny is from two East
Indian words.
The soup above named is a chicken
and rice soup^ with enough curry powder
mixed in to give a pale yellow color. It
is light and simple. Boil the fowl in the
stock , take out and cut it in dice. Strain
the stock, put in vegetables cut in dice
and the chicken and little rice, curry,
seasonings and small amount of starch
thickening.
879 -Sheephead a la Dieppoise.
Fillets of fish placed in a deep baking
pan, a matelotte (or fish stew) poured over,
cracker crumbs on top and baked. Di-
eppe is a seaport and fishing town. Cut
the sheephead or other fish in two-ounce
strips, free from bones. Mince an onion
fine. Butter the baking pan. strew the
onion in and fill with the nsh.
For the matelotte make white sauce
about 3 cups, and put into it shrimps,
oysters and button mushrooms, about */ 2
cup of each, or if oysters are out of sea-
son, use lobster or crab substitutes, pour
over the fish in the pan, bake as above
stated. Dish up with some ot the sauce,
and serve potatoes in the same plate.
880 Potatoes Serpenl.ne.
There is an instrument like an auger
made for the special purpose of boring
out potatoes in corkscrew shapes. When
it has passed through a potato you have
two spirals of the size and appearance of
strands of untwisted rope. Fry light
colored in hot lard. Serve with fish and
entrees.
881 Beef a la Mode Parissienne.
A piece of beef larded with salt pork
only, braised tender, garnished in the
dish with lar^e cuts of vegetables in fancy
forms, and very green peas, and a crou-
ton. Braise the beef as usual. Prepare
an assortment of bright-colored vegeta-
bles carrots, turnips, parsnips, anything
that may be at hand, and cut them in
shapes like a section of an oran e, and
some like bottle corks; and for the round
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
ones pick out small onions, size of mar-
bles, and fry them till thty are lightly
browned, in a frying pan. Boil the vege-
tables, then put them and the onions in
brown sauce ; strain in the braised beef
gravy and add little wine. Have a bowl
of small peas, very green, either garden
or Frcncn canned. Slice the a la mode
beef, place mixed vegetables in gravy
around it. spoonful of peas on top and a
crouton dipped in sauce at one end.
882 Veal Pie, a la t ermier
Fermier is French for farmer ; a la mode
fermiere means country style. Make a
good veal stew with milk in it as directed
for veal pot pie, cover with short pie
crust and bake.
883 Cutlets of Sweetbreads, a la
Victoria.
Croquette mixture of sweetbreads made
in cutlet shapes.
There are two principal ways of pre-
paring croquettes, either with panada as
for tHe chicken cutlets of the last dinner
or with roux of butter and flour, which is
richer. Preparj the roux and the sauce
made of it by putting a cup of flour and
large y 2 cup butter into a trying pan and
stir over the fire until they bubble, hen
add 2 cups broth, allowing it to boil with
constant stirring; this makes sauce of
double thickness. Put in a pound or
more of minced sweetbreads previously
boiled, and 2 raw eggs. Stir till well
cooked, add little nutmeg, salt, pepper,
lemon juice, and then cool it in a pan.
Make out in shape of mutton chops,
stick a length of macaroni to imitate the
bone, dip 'in egg and cracker dust, and
fry in hot lard. Serve with Allemande
sauce in the dish and garniture of crou-
tons, fancy potatoes or quenelles.
884 Baked Indian Pudding Richest
4 cups milk a quart,
i heaped cup corn meal 6 ounces.
Butter size of an egg 2 ounces,
i large cooking spoon molasses
2 ounces.
4 eggs (8 yolks are better.)
i small lemon.
Make mush of the milk and meal and
set it at the back of the range, or *on a
brick and with a tight lid on keep
cooking slowly for an hour or two. Then
grate in the rind of lemon and squeeze in
iuicj of half; add the black molasses,
butter and eggs and bake in a 2 quart pan
about V-2, hour. It makes 3 pints. As
only half the people, or probably less
will order pudding or any other ordinary
dish in a plentiful dinner this amount is
enough for a dinner for 30. There are
plenty of cooks even in very good hotels
who can never make a satisfactory In-
dian pudding ; it runs with them from a
hard corn cake to a sort of brown gruel
which nobody wants. The only remedy
is to weigh or measure the ingredients
and follow directions.
885 -Mixed Fruits For Pies.
When certain kinds of fruits have been
repeatedly used because of their plenti-
fulness some variety may be had by mix-
ing two sorts together. Apples and
blackberries are good in any form of
pastry when so mixed ; in the bakery pies,
No. -^03, in steamed fruit puddings, No.
176, and in the ordinary family pie and
mulberries which aro almost useless
alone may be used as well as any other
fruit if mixed with an acid variety.
886 Trouble With Captain Joh son.
The trouble with Captain Johnson
was, he was top superficial in his methods
for his own interests and was not so
smart as he thought himself. It was a
long way from this place; yet I could not
help reverting to one of the extremes of
wastefulness, whe*i, by a singular unfit-
ness of season, just as I was deploring the
loss of frying fat in making the dinner of
two days ago, the woodman, or keeper of
this place through the winter time, came
with a complaint that he is netting no
grease this summer tor his wife to make
her winter's soap with, as he has been
used to do, and that the waste from the
kitchen is not sufficient to fatten over
half the pigs he has supplied himself
with, and his pork crop will be deplora-
bly short. He intimates that his place is
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
J2O
not worth much to him if shorn of these
perquisites. This is a sad case, but none
of us get any such perguisites in this
house. The question is here how a
good table can be set in a house that
charges ten dollars a week when all the
saving ways 9f turning one thing into an-
other and using up everything by the ap-
pliance of skill such as the French are
credited with in the same line are brought
into requisition and carried out industri-
ously, and not how many hogs can we
fatten, or how many barrels of grease can
we make. Poor John! By the time the
little suet that comes on the closely
trimmed meats has been used for short-
ening pie crusts and puddings, and the
fat^from the roasts and soups is used for
frying and sauteing, there is hardly
enough left for him to grease his boots
with. I know from experience that
thousands of meals are sold daily for from
20 to 25 cents that are allowed to cost 40
or 50 cents, not through what the people
eat or want, but because of the unneces-
sary wastes of all kinds and the extrane-
ous expenses, and the sellers of meals on
those losing terms are only kept up by
their beds, their bar profits, livery or
other source of revenue.
John is a young man and was born too
late. He would have been happy on
Captain Johnson's steamboat on the
Mississippi where the cooks made from
7^ to 10^ barrels of grease to sell for
themselves every trip the boat made. It
will be observed there was always a half
barrel that is where Captain Johnson
comes m. He could neither read nor
write, but he owned his steamboat and
she was a good one the America carry-
ing cotton, tobacco and pork from the
city of N -, State of 1' , to
New Orleans, and taking molasses and
imported goods on the return trip. But
New Orleans was the point the employes
considered the beginning and the end of
the trip. This used to take about three
weeks on the average. On every trip up
the boat used to take on a supply of pine
knots at the mouth of Red River; that
was racing fuel kept ready in case any
boat came in sight, that it was necessary
to beat; for the America could beat most
of them . But before reaching Red River
on the return trip, that stock of pine was
exhausted ; and there being nothing but
Tennessee poplar and gum wood on the
boat, it was no uncommon thing for the
engineers to seize all the bac9n shoulders
and hams they could lay their hands on
to mix with it to make more steam. The
cooks thought that a very poor use to
put fat bacon to, and, to prevent it, all
they could lay their hands on, they cut
up and laid snugly out of the engineers'
reach in the boltom of their grease bar-
rels. Captain Johnson, as may well
be supposed, was averse to all such pro-
ceedings, and instituted a rule which none
dared break, that no soap-grease man
should take away the "slush" or any part
of it before he had examined it. Does
the reader think that that placed the boys
in a bad fix? Not at all ; they knew him
well. So every trip on the day of reach-
ing port he went down into the kitchen
and rolled up his right sleeve.
"Well, boys, how many barrels of
slush have you made this trip?" ( This is
where the politicians get the word "slush
money"). "Only eight and a half, Cap-
tain, been as saving on you as possible
it might have been ten barrels if we
hadn't took good care."
"Eight nine! why you villains
what do you mean, going to rob me out
of my boat?"
"Captain, we had a big trip of passen-
gers up, and a long trip, and the meats
were some fatter than usual, and this
ain't so much as last trip by half a "
"Let me see it let mj see it well,
why don't you bring me my long flesh
fork here no, not that, the long one.
Oh you infernal rascals, I know you. I
began life as a cook myself, and I know
you."
And with that Captain Johnson began
forking the contents of the first full barrel
over into the half-filled barrel that stood
ready for it. By the time the full barrel
was half emptied the half barrel was, of
course, full; and, having no more room,
he commenced forking over the next full
barrel into that he had just quit, never
reaching the bottom of any barrel in the
row, but keeping up his talk all the
while.
"You can't rob me, boys, I've got eyes
and my eyes ain't sheep's eyes that you
can pull the wool over I've been a cook
and I know the ropes and and I've
pulled 'em all there, now ; I've got you,
what's this?"
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
But it always proved to be a bare bone
or something wprthless ; and so the farce
was always carried out on every trip dur-
ing the eight month's season, and the
boys received $4 a barrel from the soap
men for spending money as soon as the
boat reached the wharf.
It stands in proof that human nature
even steamboat human nature is not
wholly depraved; that nobody ever
wounded Captain Johnson's self-love by
informing him how grossly he was being
deceived. Suppose the boys beat him out
of a hundred dollars over and above what
was right; he must be dead before this;
for he was well along in years at that
time, and surely it was worth twice a
hundred dollars to him to die in the
happy belief that nobody had ever been
able to pull the wool over his eves.
Dinner.
August 7.
Soup Potage a la Bagiation (6 qts
36 cents.)
Croaker in batter, sauce remoulade (3
Ibs and sauce, 46 cents.)
Potatoes a la Bazaine.
Boiled mutton, caper sauce (boned
shoulder, 2 Ibs and sauce 27 cents.)
Roast beef (2 Ibs flank 22 cents.)
Spring lamb (hind quarter, 6 Ibs 70
cents.)
Emince of veal with eggs (6 orders, 8
cents.)
Timbales of macaroni a la Rossini (15
orders 23 cents.)
Rice 5, peas 12, corn 15, cabbage 6,
potatoes 15 (53 cents.)
Sliced bread and butter pudding (with
sauce, 2 qts, 20 orders 22 cents.)
Apricot pie (2 with one can apricots
25, crust 5, 30 cents.)
Vanilla ice cream (2 qts pure, 3 when
frozen 65 cents.)
Chocolate cake (finest, No. 894, i Ib
12 cents.)
White cake (finest, No. 622, i Ib 10
cents.)
Fruit, cheese, crackers, pickles (30
cents.)
Milk, cream, buttermilk (38 cents.)
Bread, butter, coffee, tea (28 cents.)
Total $5 20; 32 persons, 16 cents a
plate.
887 Potage a la Bagration.
Anything denominated bagration will
prove to be a mixture of fish and vegeta-
bles. For P9tage bagration make a white
rice soup with mixed vegetables cut in
small dice and fish cut small, about one-
third of it milk, and flavor with curry or
saffron. If in Lent make the stock of
the fish by boiling it whole, take out, strain
the liquor and cut the fish in pieces to be
added after the rice and vegetables are
cooked enough. The soup should be
rather thick with rice and fish and well
sprinkled with parsley at dishing-up
time.
Careme was at one period in the em-
ploy of the Countess of Bagration; it is
probable that trie half dozen dishes bear-
ing that designation were named in com-
pliment to her or to the house.
888 Croaker in Batter, Sauce Re-
moulade.
The croaker is a southern sea-fish,
small, something like a white perch
good for frying and broiling.
Split the fish lengthwise, remove the
bone, salt well, dip in thin batter same as
for a la Horly, or same as fruit fritters,
and fry in lard not too hot. Serve with
sauce and some special form of potatoes.
889 Sauce Remoulade.
Remoulade is the French name of a
favorite kind of salad dressing that is
made with cooked yolks in part, has gar-
lic, shalots and parsley added. It is dif-
ferent from mayonaise which is made
with raw yolks. 'Looks like sauce tartare,
which is minced pickles and shalots
(young onions) in maycnaise. Take :
3 hard boiled yolks.
i raw yolk.
% cup olive oil.
Same of melted fresh butter.
Yz cup vinegar.
i teaspoon salt, pinch of cayenne.
1 teaspoon made mustard.
2 or 3 cloves of garlic crushed and
minced, and 2 tablespoons finely minced
green onions.
Pound the hard-boiled yolks in a bowl
SAN- fRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
222
with the butter ; add salt, mustard pep-
per; then the raw yolk, or two of them,
and stir in the oil gradually and alter-
nately with the vinegar. It makes a but-
tery compound that is a most excellent
salad dressing without the garlic and on-
ion, but add those to make the sauce
remoulade.
80 Potatoes Algerienne.
Cut raw potatoes in large cubes (dice)
same as for Brabant, the more perfect
the better; the outside trimmings of po-
tato can be used to mash. Steam or
boil first and let get cold, then saute the
cubes in a frying pan like Dutch fried.
Sprinkle with salt and parsley when done.
Serve with fish and as a garnish for en-
trees. Cold boiled potatoes can be used
equally as well as raw, and the outside
cuttings cooked a la Lyonaise.
Lyonaise refers to the city of Lyons in
France. Bazaine was the name of a
general.
891-Lmince rf Veal With Eggs.
Trim up the remains of cold veal or
shave off the outside of cold cooked cut-
lets; mince the meat small, put in a pan
with few spoonfuls of hot gravy, season-
ing of powdered thyme or sage or nut-
meg, .salt and pepper; make hot without
cookinu. Serve neatly a spoonful heaped
in a small dish with a lengthwise quarter
or two of hard-boiled egg on top and
croutons, fancy potatoes or quenelles for
ornament.
with the macaroni and cheese.
Take deep gem pans or patty pans of
sufficient number, butter and coat them
with cracker dust, press in the macaroni
mixture, put a small lump of butter on
top; bake brown.
Serve with a spoonful of gravy in the
dish, the timbale turned out of the
mould, a conical pile of cheese on top.
Named for Rossini, the composer, who
is said to have been extremely partial to
both truffles and macaroni.
893 Sliced
Bread and
ding.
Butter Pud-
loaf.
1 pound bread in slices about i
^2 cup butter.
4 cups milk.
2 tablespoons sugar,
3 eggs (6 yolks are better.)
i cup currants.
Grated nutmeg enough to flavor.
Have the slices free from dark crust,
spread the butter on them, place in two
layers in the pudding pan with currants
between and on top. Beat eggs, su_;ar,
milk and nutmeg tpgether, and pour over
the bread, cover with either buttered pa-
per or crust and bake half an hour. Serve
with sauce or sweetened cream.
892-Timbales of Macaroni,
Rossini.
a la
A timbale is a shape, mould or form ;
the term is not often applied to anything
but moulds of macaroni, rice and potato.
Cook y 2 pound of macaroni, and when
cold, cut it in inch lengths, and mix with
it a cupful of grated cheese, little salt
and pepper.
Slice up y<z cup of button mushrooms,
same of cold, smoked tongue, same of
truffles or boiled chicken (livers substi-
tute); moisten them with a spoonful of
Spanish sauce or gravy ; then mix them
894 Chocoiat Cake Best.
2 cups granulated sugar a pound,
i cup butter y z pound.
1 cup milk y 2 pint.
5 cups flour little over a pound.
2 teaspoons baking powder.
12 whites of eggs or i^ cups.
4 ounces chocolate.
Vanilla extract.
Make up same as white cake, No. 622,
melt the chocolate by warming it in a
cup with nothing added, and beat it into
the cake. Vanilla extract improves the
chocolate flavor but is not essential. 4
pounds cost 48 cents.
895 T'ouble in Serving Weals.
At a pleasure resort it is the same as on
board a steamer or at the first table of a
public banquet, everybody sits down to
the table at the same instant, and, to all
COOKING fOR PROFIT.
appearances, begins instantly to wish
that he were the only gjiest and all the
other pe9ple were waiters so that he
might be instantaneously served. It may
seem somewhat ridiculous in people who
have really nothing else to do to become
so impatient over a little delay in receiving
their meals ; but with that we have noth-
ing to do; to be successtul in serving
meals it is quite as important to get them
on the table expeditiously as it is*to have
them well cooked.
It happened that I was a passenger
on two excursion steamers belonging
to the same line on the great lakes and
saw on board one of the very worst, and
on the other the very best method in
practice for dealing with this difficulty.
The first was the newest, largest, finest,
steamer of the line, the pet of the com-
pany, and, being too good to adopt com-
mon ways, its dining saloon was run on
the plan of those high-priced restaurants
which get about one customer in every
half hour, and keep him reading the pa-
per another half hour, while they cook a
meal for him, but it did not work on this
steamer, where a hundred people sat
down at once, and did not want to wait
over a half minute apiece. There was
nothing on the tables that people could
help themselves to. The waiters were
almost invisible ; a few ladies at the fur-
ther end took up all their time putting a
little more water in their tea, and chang-
ing their beefsteaks for one a little better
done, while all the rest at all the other
tables sat unnoticed and getting madder
the longer they sat. Perhaps a waiter
with a tray load of cups full of coffee
would be captured by one table, and an-
other with meat or rolls by another, but
very seldom did all the parts of a meal
meet together at any one place; the ser-
vice was, therefore, an utter failure, and
the quality of the cookery could not even
come into consideration, no matter how
high the pretensions of the boat to supe-
riority might be. The other boat had
two long tables with a large part of the
staple articles that go to complete a meal
set upon it within easy reach the indi-
vidual butters and creams, bread, pickled
jellies, mustard, sugar, cheese, salt
there was a saucer as well as a plate at
every seat. When the steward's bell taps
for breakfast as the passengers filed in and
took their places the waiters at the same
time came on with their trays ready
loaded with the dishes which were surest
to be called for beefsteaks, ham, eggs,
chops, hot breads and fried potatoes
and with cups of coffee, and by the time
the people were well in their seats, the
full meal was before them, and if the
waiters were then sent off by a few for
chocolate, hot milk, boiled fish instead of
fried omelets, or a little more water in
the tea, they did not leave the great major-
ity in a state of suffering and suspense.
There is a good deal in having plenty of
waiters; and yet that is not all; for often
there are so many they are in one anoth-
er's way, becauce of the impossibility of
getting the cooking or carving done just
enough to keep them in motion. It is
scarcely necessary to say that all was
joy and peace and contentment on this
steamer where the passengers found their
soup just being set at their place as they
reached it and where the ice cream and
cake came even before they were ready
for them, and the waiters seemed almost
troublesome by their frequent offerings of
fruit and glasses of water, while the other
steamer, the too good one, came into
port loaded down to the guards with re-
mains of good intentions, of good things
that were provided, but could never be
served, and with execrations and male-
dictions of the dissatisfied. Bestowing
some thought on these things before we
pull the bell rope at our little summer
house, we have the eggs broke and dishes
ready for immediate trying, the gridiron
chock full of steaks and chops already
sizzling over the glowing charcoal and
the gravy made ready; and we get the
housekeeper to come, like a good fellow,
and dish up the stewed tomatoes, pota-
toes, oat meal and side dishes generally,
while we are turning out the omelets and
eggs, or carving the roast, and our "sec"
is making toast or serving ice cream and
fruit.
Dinner.
August 8.
Soup Consomme with quenelles (5 qts
35 cents.)
Red Snapper a la Joinville (3 Ibs and
trimmings 60 cents.)
Potato boulettes.
Boiled ham aud tongue (left for cold,
say, 15 cents.)
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
124
Roast beef (rip ends only, 3 Ibs. 24
cents.)
Spring lamb (fore quarter, 6 Ibs, 70
cents,)
Veal cutlets, a la Milanaise (8 orders,
i Ib and trimmings, 20 cents.)
Vinaigrette of brains, Provencale (7
orders, brains with trimmings, 25 cents,)
Marrowfat peas 20, beets in sauce 6,
rice 4, string beans 2, tomatoes 15, pota-
toes 14 (61 cents,)
Boiled plum pudding, sauce sabayon
(No. 901, with sauce 38 cents.)
Rhubarb pie (2 small garden, 15 cents.)
Peach ice cream (No. 217 ; Cal. peaches
in syrup, i can 25, 3 pts cream, etc., 75
cents.)
Cakes, fruit and white (charged pre-
vious meals.)
Summer apples, nuts, raisins, cheese,
40 cents.)
Milk, buttermilk, 2 gallons 24, cream
i qt 20, (44 cents.)
Butter 10, bread 6, coffee, tea, 12 (28
cents.)
Total $5 50; 32 persons, 17 cents a
plate.
896 Consomme With Quenelles.
Clear soup like No. 139 with yellow
egg balls in the plates. One way of mak-
sauce
pan a heaping tablespoon of flour, and
about the same weight of butter, and stir
them over the fire as if to make butter
sauce, instead of a full cup of water or
broth, which this amount of flour would
thicken, pour in only half a cup, stir up,
and you have a stiff butter paste. Add
the yolks of 4 eggs, one after the other,
stirring over the fire until they are cooked
in the mixture. Season with salt, if not
enough in the butter, cayenne and
nutmeg. Make in balls' when cool, size
of : japes, poach them in water, drop 4
or 5 in each plate of consomme when
served . Another way is to pound 4 hard
boiled yolks with an equal amount of
butter, add all the dry flour needed to
make dough of it, make in balls and
boil.
897 Red Snapper a la Joinville.
Remove the rough skin of this fish
with the ppint of a sharp knife or by dip-
ping in boiling water, but it need not be
split open. Brush over with egg, sift
cracker meal upon it, take up and place
in baking pan with oil or lard and bake
light brown, basting once. Make white
sauce (veloute) with fish liquor or oyster
liquor and a small portion of white wine.
Aad to it oysters, crayfish, button mush-
rooms, very small onions, shrimps and
scallops, or such substitutes as may be
available to make a good matelotte sauce
with wine, salt and cayenne. Serve por-
tions of the fish with plenty of the mate-
lotte poured over, and potatoes in some
special form in the same place. Can be
served whole for a party as well with the
matelotte poured around, sliced lemons
on the fish and potato boulettes or Par-
isienne stacked in groups at ends and
sides.
Toinville is the title of a French prince
898 Potato Boul.ttes.
Potato balls, made of potato croquette
mixture with another raw y^lk added to
make it moist. Roll in flour till they
have taken a g9od coating and without
egging or breading ; fry them in the fry-
ing basket in very hot lard, only a min-
ute or two. They burst open if fried too
long. They should be about the size of
walnuts or little larger. Serve two in
each plate of fish.
899 Veal Cutlets, Milanaise.
Cut 8 cutlets small and thin, but of
good shape ; dust with powdered herbs,
salt and pepper; dip both sides in a plate
of flour and let them remain in it until
near dinner time. Melt 4 ounces of but-
ter in a frying pan, and, when it froths
up, lay in the cutlets and saute them
brown. Serve direct out of the pan with
the hot, brown butter adhering, and a
few olives and a quarter of lemon in the
dish.
900 Vinaig ette of Brains, a la
Provencale.
French vinaigrette sauce of minced
pickles and shalots of olive oil seasoned
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
\vith salt and pepper; poured over a por-
tion of calf s brains previously boiled.
Parboil the brains first, and pick off all
the dark stains, divide in portions and
simmer for half an hour in seasoned
broth, cut up a lemon in them and keep
hot till served. The vinaigrette sauce to
be kept cold. It is thick with minced
pickles and shalots enough to season
like tartar sauce made of clear oil instead
of mayonaise.
901 Boiled P u-n Pudding.
i pound white bread crumbs 4 pressed
cups.
y? pound sugar i cup.
y<2, pound minced suet 2 pressed cups.
54 pound raisins i heaped cup.
Same of currants.
i cup milk.
4 eggs, pinch soda and salt.
i teaspoon mixed ground spices cin-
namon, nutmeg, mace, alspice.
Mix the dry articles together the
bread crumbs chopped very fine ; mix the
milk and eggs, salt and soda, and, if you
use brandy or wine, add a few spoonfuls
and pour it over the dry mixture and stir
up thoroughly. Tie up in two pudding
bags, or put in two moulds and boil or
steam them 4 hours. Brandy sauce,
or sabayon or No. 733.
Cost, bread 5, sugar 4, suet 4, raisins
and currants 10, milk i, eggs 5, spices,
lemon peel or liquor 5 ; 34 cents for zVz
pounds or 25 orders.
902 Trouble With the Manager.
The trouble with our manager is, he is
not making as much money as he ex-
pected, and he is looking at the table
and at my regularly rendered account of
cost per "meal to find the reason why.
Another of those blue spells has come
upon us which often occur early in Au-
gust when it turns unseasonably cold and
there has been two days of steady rain.
The people sit and mope and have no
appetites for meals, get tired of them-
selves and want to get up and go, and
some do go ; many resort houses are al-
most emptied by the occurrence of two
rainy days. Not only that, but those
who are tree are often curious to try a
number of different places during the
season and although the average of goers
and comers may be equal in the end*
there are times when an hotel is almost
depopulated for no reason but that it is
the ebb before the flood, and it happens
so.
The way it began between the mana-
ger and myself was this : You see the
manager at such a small place as this has
to be a gentleman of all-work ; he is re-
quired to look sweet, and play croquette
and tennis part of the time, but he also
acts as host, clerk, cashier, bookkeeper,,
paymaster and part steward. As long as
there was nobody in the house and no
bills to collect we will suppose the owner
of the place put up the money for ex-
penses, but when there began to be some
receipts, the manager was told to go it
alone, and I expect he has been counting
over his money. Day after to-morrow
he has to pay all his help, the tenth being
the day of the month almost always ob-
served in that way, for by that time the
monthly bills which fall due on the first
have been collected and the indebtedness
to the butcher and market men has been
liquidated, then when the employees are
paid he can count over his balance on
hand, or at least ask where it is. If our
crowd had kept up to about forty-five
souls he would have been away ahead
and would have asked me no questions;
as it is he has been asked on every trip to
town to bring back a couple of cans of
mushrooms, or a dozen lemons, or a can
of shrimps and bottle of oil and so forth
and while he always brings them he hesi-
tates and asks first if they are really nec-
essary, with a great stress laid upon the
"really." Now, the butcher at the Glen
know.; we get our meats by express and
never go to him except in a case of ne-
cessity; consequently, he puts his finger
in our manager's eye every time he sells
him a piece of meat. This afternoon he
sold the manager who is proud to say
he does not know one piece of meat from
another a piece of the neck of beef for
a roast, and flour briskets of mutton for
racks and loins to cut into chops, and
when I explained the manager only laugh-
ed, and said it was good enough, and he
would like to make some money anyhow,,
and there was no use of being so particular
Then he went on to ask why the dinners
now were costing sixteen and seventeen
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
126
cents a plate according to my own show-
ing; whereas, for two or three weeks
they ran from seven to eleven cents only,
and why the same cheap scale could
not be always preserved. There is no
reason why. He is in the right. Ten-
cent dinners such as we had three weeks
back could be^continued all the season,
and give satisfaction. However, I have
not been under any instruction or restraint
in this matter. If the owner of the place
has had any thought about the matter, it
has probably been only to see what I
would do, and in what ways this sum-
mer's style would differ from the house-
hold style of keeping up a table. John,
the keeper, has been comparing the fru-
gal management of provisions this sum-
mer, which leaves him no perquisites with
the waste of former years, which gave
him a large pork crop, and he thinks it
extreme niggardliness.
The manager, who was not here last
year, is comparing the seventeen -cents-a-
plate of to-day, with the ten-cents-a-
plate of last month, and it seems to him
a change to extravagance. There is no
room for a reasonable doubt that there
was much wasted last year through
want of knowing what to do with it, and
through cooking too much as it takes to
make our most expensive meals now.
The extravagance of the dinners, such as
it is, arises from the use of more meat in
the soups and sauces, the use of sea-fish,
which the butcher sends according to a
custom which prevails, at eleven cents,
and which costs 12^, delivered; where-
as, the lake fish costs but 9; and the
cooking in fillets entails a loss of bulk
and requires more pounds gross for a
given number of people than if cooked
plain, with the bones in. There has
been an indulgence in a few cans of pine-
apple, and other fruits in syrup, a few
olives, a bottle of wine, a mincing up of
pickles, a rather more lavish use of esgs
and crackers for frying, and of lard "for
the same, a little waste in the matter of
potatoes in fancy forms, the new potatoes
being dearer than the old, and all the
odd cents counted up together have
swelled the sum total. There has not
been a corresponding increase in the cost
of breakfast and supper, the latter, in-
deed, bein;* half made up of the meats
and other remains from dinner, and be-
ing quite an inexpensive meal.
But what are we here for? Not alone
to see how cheaply one summer hotel
can be kept, but to find out how much
it costs to live well. The custom men-
tioned in connection with the butcher is,
that one who supplies a number of hotels
occasionally get a refrigerator car full of
special kinds of provisions, which he
sends around to his first-class customers,
without waiting for the' order, assuming
that a novely will be welcome in the
height of the season.
Dinner.
August 9.
Soup Pot au fere (6 qts 20 cents.)
Sliced cucumbers (on table 12 cents.)
Stewed codfish and potatoes (18 cents.)
Corned tongue and cabbage (^ tongue
15, cabbage 5, 20 cents.)
Roast beef (piece loin, 2^ Ibs 30
cents.)
Breast of lamb, a la jardiniere (2 bris-
kets, 4 Ibs 32 cents.)
Ragout of beef, a la Creole (meat from
soup pot 20, with trimmings 30 cents.)
Macaroni au gratin (No. 629 ; 12 cents.)
Summer beats 5, string beans *, corn
15, rice 7, potatoes 15 (45 cents.)
Baked Indian pudding (cheap, 20
cents.)
Apple pie, rhubarb pie (4 pies, 28
cents.)
Lemon ice cream (2 qts milk, starch,
eggs, etc., 38 cents.)
Cakes (2 Ibs 18 cents.)
Nuts, raisins, pickles, cheese crackers
(40 cents.)
Milk, buttermilk 24, coffee 10, tea,
sugar 6, bread 6.
Total $3 99; 40 persons; 10 cents a
plate.
Eight military cadets arrived shortly
before dinner had to add a little here
and there but, practicially, the same din-
ner was sufficient that would have been
prepared for 32 it is but a more thor-
ough clean-up of the dishes and a little
ekeing out of the corn and ice cream,
and a few slices of cake served in place
of the departed pudding. In a case like
this it is the home folks that go without.
903 -?ot-au-Feu or Gravy Soup.
Take 3 or 4 pounds of coarse beef, the
COOKING jFOR PROFIT.
127
neck will do or the long strings of the
flank which some butchers sell attached
to the porter house steaks ; cut in pieces,
put it into a jar or pot with 6 quarts of
water and set it in the oven while break-
fast is going on or at such a time that it
may bake 3 hours. Sometime while bak-
ing throw into the jar an onion cut small,
a piece of carrot, turnip, celery and pars-
nip or whichever may be at hand, merely
to give a little flavor, but the meat gravy
is the characteristic of the soup and riot
the vegetables. Season with salt and
pepper. Take out the meat and reserve
it for a side dish. Skim the fat off the
soup, add a little flour thickening, boil
up and serve with a few squares of toasted
bread in the plates.
904 Stewe, C.dfish and Fctatces.
Chop a pound of salt codfish in pieces
size of walnuts, steep them a few hours
to freshen, boil in water, throw that away
and boil again in fresh water and milk ;
put in as many potatoes as there are
pieces offish, also a small onion, lump of
butter, pepper, and thicken like white
sauce with flour.
905 Broast v>. L-mb, a laJardinier.
Chop briskets of mutton lengthwise in
strips, put them in a deep baking pan
with seasonings and vegetables, cover
with buttered paper and let cook in the
oven until quite tender and the liquor is
dried down.
Prepare a bright-colored jardini.r of
very green peas, white and yellow tur-
nips, string beans, summer squash, cu-
cumbers, carrots, whatever ot the kind
can be had except beets which would
color everything. Cut these vegetables j
all to one small size, and boil in water
till done. Mix them in one saucepan
and pour over them the seasoned gravy,
maae in the baking pan, which should
not, however, be of a dark color. Serve
cuts of the braised libs of lamb or mutton
smothered with the vegetables and a
spoonful of gravy poured under.
906 Ragouts cf Bief, a la Creole.
Take the pieces of beef from the soup
pot and cut to medium sized portions.
Mince an onion, crush a half head of
garlic with the side of your knife, and
mince that; put them on in a frying pan
with a spoonful of the clear fat from the
soup and str over the fire until cooked
?md beginning to brown; then add a
small can of tomatoes, rubbed through a
colander; season with salt and pepper,
then put in the pieces of beef and keep
simmering, set upon a brick until served .
If not likely to be a thick sauce by boil-
ing down there should be a little thicken-
ing of roux or raw flour added to the to-
matoes. Cut a leaf shaped crouton of
thin bread for each dish and fry them
brown to be placed at the end for orna-
ment and for use.
907 Baked Indian Pudding Cheap.
1 pound corn meal.
2 quarts water.
Make mush ot them, set at back of
stove or on a brick and let cook with a
lid on a long time. Then add :
y% cup butter or fine minced suet.
i small cup molasses the black sort.
4 eggs.
i teaspoon ground ginger.
Stir up and bake. Serve with any
pudding sauce or sugar dip or cream.
Costs 16 cents for nearly three quarts.
Supper Fo.' Forty.
August 9.
Oatmeal mush (2 heaped cups i Ib,
makes 2 qts, 5 cents.)
Beefsteak (21 orders, 10 tenderloins n
common, 3 Ibs, 45 cents.)
Broiled ham (6 orders, 12 ounces net
15 cents.)
Cold meats (for chidren, 6 orders
charged dinner.)
Welsh rarebit (19 orders i^ Ibs cheese
etc. 22 cents.)
Broiled smoked salmon (8 orders, 12
ounces, 12 cents.)
Potatoes new baked (TO cents.)
French rolls (30 rolls 12 cents.)
Corn muffins (No. 286; 18 deep with 2
cups meal, i flour, 3 eggs; 13 cents.)
Canned giapes in syrup (2 cans 50
cents.)
Cakes assorted (2 Ibs 20 cents.)
128
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
Milk 2y 2 gal 30, cream 3 pts 30, cof-
fee y$ Ib 10, butter ij^ Ibs 25, tea 4,
sugar i^ Ibs 10, bread 3 (112 cents.)
Total $3 16; 40 persons, nearly Scents
a plate.
908 Welsh Bar b:t Three Ways
A Welsh rarebit is a slice of cheese
baked upon a slice of bread; the season-
ings are optional.
1 . A good and easy way for a family
party is to cut a number of thin slices of
bread, toast them and spread with butter ;
cut a very thin slice of cheese for each
one, place in a baking pan and bake on
the top shelf in the oven until the cheese
is melted; serve hot or bake only three or
four at a time if the orders come that
way.
2. This is more elaborate; it is the
restaurant and club style :
i pound cheese.
4 ounces butter.
i glass ale.
Salt, cayenne.
10 slices of toast.
Mince the cheese small, put it and the
butter in a saucepan, set over the fire and
work them together with a spatula or a
psstle until the cheese is hot and melted,
but take care not to let it reach boiiing
heat, but keep it cooled by adding ale in
small portions until the mixture is smooth
and creamy. Add cayenne and perhaps I
a little salt if not enough in the butter. I
Place thin slices of toast in the dishes, '
pour a spoonful of the creamed cheese
upon them and set in the top of the oven
for 3 or 4 minutes. Pour a little ale upon
the edges of the toast and serve.
3. For a large number as in a hotel,
the creamed cheese prepared as above
may be kept warm without boiling by
setting in a vessel of hot water, the toast
kept ready and spread with a spoonful of
the cheese as called for and sent in with-
out baking.
4. Instead of ale use milk and a
milder flavored dish will be the result,
which may suit better at a country
house.
909 Chease hondue.
Is the name of a sort of cheese -omelet
that is fully half cheese and is a dish
much esteemed in some quarters, and
does not mean the same as fondu or
melted cheese.
Make the creamed cheese as for the
Welsh rarebits of the foregoing receipts,
and while stirring over the fire break in 6
eggs, one at a time, and finish like
scrambled or buttered eggs. Serve on
toast or in a dish bordered with toast cut
in shapes.
910 Smoked Salmon Broiled.
Cut smoked and dried salmon in broil-
ing slices and steep in water for half a
day. Dry the slices on a cloth, brush
with butter and broil about 5 minutes.
Breakfast for Forty.
August 10.
Fresh huckleberries (2 qts 24 cents.)
Summer apples do cents.)
Oatmeal and hominy grits (3 cups
makes 3 qts, 7 cents.)
Beefsteak (18 orders, 2% Ibs net and
butter 45 cents.)
Mutton chops (9 orders, ij Ibs, 18
cents.)
Ham (9 orders, i Ib net, 15 cents.)
Egss any style (3 dozen 45 cents.)
Codfish balls ( 18 with i% Ibs fish etc.
24 cents.)
Fried rnush (4 orders 4 cents.)
Potatoes baked, and a la Francaise (10
cents.)
Muffins (No. 582; 18, 14 cents.)
French rolls (30, 12 cents.)
C9rn batter cakes (i qt 9 cents.)
Milk 2 gal. 24, cream 2 qts 40, butter
ij^ Ibs 25, syrup 8, coffee 8, tea 2, choc-
olate 8, bread 4, sugar 12 (131 cents.)
Total $3 68; 40 persons; little over 9
cents a plate.
911 Codfish Balls.
There should be nearly as much fish
used as potato, say i pound of salt codfish
to 8 potatoes. Codfish balls cannot be
made very good with cold mashed pota-
toes; all should be fresh boiled for the
purpose and made up hot.
Steep a pound of codfish in water to
COOKING fOR PROPIT.
129
freshen it, boil in two waters, pick free
from bones, mash it thoroughly in a pan
with a potato masher. Turn in the hot
potatoes and pound them together, add
a seasoning of black pepper, very little
butter and, if you choose, i egg or 2 or 3
yolks. Make up in balls either round or
flattened with plenty of flour on the
hands; drop in not lard and fry brown.
If they do not have a good appearance
when done you can change it next time
by breading them in egg and cracker
meal.
912 Cream Chocolate
There was the Queen and Crescent
restaurant enjoying qui fc e a reputation for
its chocolate, every cup of which was
said to be served with Chipped cream on
top although, in fact, no cream ever came
near it it was simply made to order and
whisked up while on the fire as directed
at our No. ^6, but with less milk than
that, and served with the appearance of
whipped chocolate cream upon it. And
there was, close by, the Hotel Fantastic,
on Fantastic Beach, that was said never
to have served a good cup of chocolate
during the whole ot its unprofitable ex-
istence. Such is the difference resulting
from the methods of making the latter
using twice as much chocolate, making
it hours too soon and spoiling it irrevo-
cably in the detestable, bain-marie can,
a miniature mud well.
Dinner.
August 10.
Soup Consomme Knickerbocker (6
qts 30 cents.)
Lake trout stuffed (3 Ibs and stuffing,
36 cents.)
Potatoes a la Colbert.
Boiled ham (shank, 2 orders 5 cents.)
Roast chicken with currant jelly (4
hens, 32 orders no cents.)
Beef a la mode Allemande (3 Ibs net
and trimmings 45 cents.)
Braised mutton with nudels (2 briskets,
4 Ibs and trimmings 40 c-^-nts.)
Summer squash 14, beets 4, cabbage
10, rice 3, corn 15, potatoes 15; (61
cents.)
Baked prune pudding (2^ qts with
sauce 28 cents.)
Custard pie (2 large, deep 24 cents.)
Blueberry pie (i qt, 2 pies, large, thin
20 cents.)
Lemon ice cream (5 pts pure cream,
sugar, flavor, freezing, makes 8 pts for 75
cents.)
Cakes, assorted kinds (2 Ibs 20 cents.)
Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, pickles
(average 42 cents.)
Milk, buttermilk 2}
- /r o "L~ 30, cream i
qt 20, coffee 8, tea 4, butter 20. jelly 10,
bread 8, sugar 8 (108 cents.)
Total $6 44; 42 persons: 15^ cents a
plate.
913 Consomme Knickerbocker.
It is chicken broth made dark colored
with fried vegetables and chopped fresh
tomatoes, and a small amount of barley
added. When you have fowls that must
be boiled before roasting, the liquor they
are boiled in makes good soup. Strain
and okim it. Cut a mixture of small
vegetables in dice and saute them with a
little butter and sugar, the same as for
Julienne ; when lightly colored put them
into the broth, and, if you have no fresh
tomatoes, use the solid part of the canned
cut in pieces, and without the juice.
Barley should be boiled separately for it,
or rice that is alreadv cooked may be
washed off clear and used instead. Sea-
son to taste.
914 Fish Stuffed and Baked.
Make a small amount of stuffing the
same as for chicken and turkey, and sea-
soned with either powdered thyme or
sage, and add an egg or two yolks. The
back bone can be taken out of the fish
without quite dividing the two sides, by
cutting down inside nearly to the skin,
and pulling the bone away. Wash the
fish and dry it ; spread the stuffing on one
side, double over to the original shape ; it
may be sewed up with thread, but will
do very well without. Place in the bak-
ing pan and^ score the upper side with a
sharp knife in places where it is to be cut
when done. Put a minced onion and
some scraps of fat, salt pork in the pan,
a spoonful of drippings, water and salt
and bake nearly an hour. Serve out of
the pan with a spoonful cf Spanish sauce
130
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
or other gravy, and potatoes in the same
plate.
915 Potatoes a la Colbert.
Like marechale, largest size of Paris-
ienne, size of crab apples, of raw pota-
toes, but steamed for this style instead of
baked brown, and sprinkle with fine
parsley, salt and melted butter.
916 Roast Chicken with Currant
Jelly.
Boil old fowls two hours, take out,
dredge with salt and pepper, then with
fiour, which insures a good, rich brown
color, and bake about y hour. Carve
and serve with gravy ana currant jelly.
917 Beef a la Mode Allemande, or
German.
Lard a piece of lean beef in the usual
way by drawing it full of strips of pork or
bacon fat, put it in a jar or pot in the
oven, with water enough to cover, and
salt, pepper and few pieces of carrot and
turnip, and bake about three hours.
Take out the meat, skim and strain the
liquor, add to it a cupful of white wine,
one of raisins and one of prunes, and a
small amount of flour thickening and
boil up. Put back into the gravy the
vegetables that were strained out before
and serve this sauce with the cuts of beef.
918 Braised Mutton with Nudels,
Something like mutton with beans, a
la Bretonne, but with nudels (noodles or
nouilles) cooked separately and in gravy
to serve with the cuts of mutton.
The briskets of mutton as well as the
shoulders can be used up in this way.
Take out the bones, season the meat and
roil it up and bake or braise it long
enough to make it quite tender, always
keeping water enough in the pan to keep
it from drying out, and a cover of greased
paper on top.
919 Baked Prune Pudding.
Make a bread pudding, either No, 113
doubled perhaps in quantity, or at No.
390. Take three cups of stewed prunes
without the juice and drop them in as
you would raisins ; the prunes are better
if pitted and sprinkled with lemon juice.
920 Summer Squash.
This vegetable should always be
steamed, or at any rate not boiled in wa-
ter, it being an object to get it as dry as
possible so as to allow the addition of
milk or cream when it is mashed. Shave
off the outside thinly with a sharp knife ;
cut each squash in six or eight pieces. It
depends upon the age and distinctness of
the seeds whether they should be cut out
or not ; if large enough to show promi-
nently in the mashed squash take out the
entire core. Squash cooks in about half
an hour, and may be allowed to simmer
and dry put more after mashing and sea-
soning, in a pan set upon a couple of
bricks.
Dinner.
August ii.
Soup Potage Parmentier or potato
cream (7 qts 40 cents.)
Boiled pickerel, parsley sauce (3 Ibs
and sauce 36 cents.)
Potatoes Hollandaise.
Boiled ribs beef with horseradish (ic
cents.)
Roast saddle of mutton (5 Ibs 55 cents.)
Braised veal with browned potatoes
(breast 5 Ibs and potatoes, 60 cents.)
Ragouts of giblets en croustade (18 or-
ders 30 cents.)
Green corn fritters, American style ( 30
orders 45 cents.)
String beans 3, beets, cabbage 10, rice
6, tomatoes 15, potatpes 15 (49 cents.)
New green apple pie (3 pies 21 cents.)
Raspberry pie (2 pies 18 cents.)
Gipsy pudding (24 orders 34 cents.)
Tapioca jelly with cream (j.lly i qt 8,
cream 4, 12 cents.)
Brandy snaps and wafer jumbles (15
cents.)
Nuts, raisins, cheese, condiments (av-
erage 44 cents.)
Milk 30, cream 20, butter 20, bread 8,
coffee, tea, sugar r8 (96 cents.)
Total $5 70; 44 persons; 13 cents a
plate.
COOKING POR PROPIT.
'3*
921-Potag3
Parmentier,
Soup,
or Potato
Named for the man, M. Parmentier,
who first brought the potato into France.
Take about 10 or 12 potatoes, steam or
boil, mash and mix them with a quart of
boiling milk or cream. Have a well
seasoned soup stock ready made with beef
and veal bones and the usual vegetables
and a knuckle bpne of boiled ham and a
large onion additional boiled in it, and
slightly thicken it while boiling, which
will prevent the potato puree from set-
tling. Mix 4 quarts of this stock with the
potato cream, pass through a strainer or
seive, season with salt and pepper, add a
sprinkling of minced parsley and keep hot
without foiling. Serve crusts or puff-
paste croutons (No. 736) in the plates.
922 Breast of Veal with Browned
Potatoes, or a I'Anglaise.
Saw through the ribs to make conven-
ient cuts ; cook as directed for rib ends of
beef and serve new potatoes first steamed
and then browned in the oven, and gravy
in the dish.
923 Ragout of Giblets en
tade.
Crous-
925 -Corn Fnthrs or Mock Ovslers
Two Ways.
The French way of making corn fritters
is found at No. 817. These two ways,
one with canned corn and one with
roasting ears the cheaper and much more
popular.
1. To one can of corn allow 2 eggs,
an ounce of softened butter, teaspoon of
mixed salt and pepper and about a cup
of flour or according to the dryness of
the corn. Stir up vigorously. Set a fry-
ing pan over the fire with lard in it just to
cover the bottom when hot and drop in
spoonfuls of the corn mixture flattened
and about the size of large fried oysters.
Cook brown on both sides and serve hot
and fresh cooked. Good for a breakfast
dish as well as for dinner.
2. Take ears of green corn and shave
off the cob, and every pint count the
same as one can above, and proceed the
same way. These made with green corn
have more of the taste of oysters than the
others.
Boil the livers, gizzards, hearts and
necks of poultry in water to cover, when
done drain them out and cut all into
small pieces. Mince an onion and fry it
in two ounces of butter pr oil, put in two
tablespoons flour and stir until it begins
to brown, strain in the giblet liquor and
a little Spanish sauce, Worcestershire
sauce, or gravy besides; cut a slice of
ham in small dice, throw that in and
then the cut giblets. Season with cay-
enne and salt and wine, if wanted. Serve
in patty shells or croustades like the fol-
lowing.
924-Croustades or Shells of Rice.
Make the same as directed for potato
croustades, No. 874, using boilea rice
mashed with yolk of egg instead of po-
tato.
926 New Green Apple Pie.
Apples before they are ripe are best
used this way. Steam them as you would
potatoes without paring, when done mash
them through a colander. Add sugar,
butter and nutmeg to the pulp and make
open pies with crust rolled thin, same
style as pumpkin pie.
927 Gipsy Pudding.
a pan of
Sponge jelly cake floating in
cold custard.
Make the sponge cake No. 281 and
bake on jelly-cake pans, put two to ether
with fruit jelly between. Make boiled
custard, No. 136, put in a tin milk pan
when cold and the cake in it. Have a
cup of cream in a large bowl, flavored
with vanilla. Serve spponfuls of the
cake and custard, and whip up the cream
and serve a spoonful on top for a finish.
928 Tapioca Jelly.
4 cups water.
J4 cup tapioca 4 ounces.
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
i heaped cup sugar 10 ounces.
i cup raspberry juice or syrup, or lemon
juice and rind and water.
Steep the tapioca in half the water two
hours. The water should be cold but
set in a rather warm place. Boil the
other pint of water with the sugar in it
and the raspberry or lemon syrup. Stir
in the steeped tapioca and C9ok gently
at the back of the stove until it is trans-
parent, about half an hour. Pour into
wetted cups or moulds; when cold and
set turn it out and serve with cream or
boiled custard.
Pearl tapioca is the best; the coarse
granulated if used should first be crushed.
Cost : 8 cents a quart.
929 Brandy Snaps.
The name of a sort of molasses wafer,
but there is no brandy about them.
4 cups flonr a pound,
i cup butter y 2 pound.
1 cup sugar % pound.
2 ounces ground ginger.
Lemon extract to flavor.
1 teaspoon soda rounded measure.
2 large cups common molasses i*^
pounds.
Rub the butter into the flour as in
making short paste, and add the ginger.
Make a hole in the middle, put in the
sugar, molasses and extract, dissolve the
soda and put in, stir all together.
Drop the batter with a teaspoon on
baking pans, not greased, and bake in a
slack oven. The snaps run out flat and
thin. Take off before they get cold and
bend them to tubular shape on a new
broom handle.
Dinner.
August 12.
Soup Consomme St. Xavier (7 qts 42
cents.)
Lake trout, a la Genevoise (5 Ibs and
wine 70 cents.)
Potato bignets do cents.)
Roast beef (loin and flank 4 Ibs 50
cents.)
Spring lamb, mint sauce (5 Ibs 60
cents.)
Mutton stew a 1'Irlandaise (2 Ibs and
vegetables 13 orders 20 cents.)
Macaroni a la Palermetane (12 orders
12 cents.)
Peaches a la Richelieu (i can in syrup,
20 orders 33 cents.)
Stewed carrots 4, squash 6, butter-
beans 8, mashed turnips 4, rice 5, pota-
toes 14 (41 cents.)
Steamed huckleberry roll (No, 937 ; 22
orders 28 cents.)
Sarat9ga shortcake (No. 301 ; 32 cents.)
Floating island (2 qts custard, cakes,
jelly, cream 30 orders 26 cents.)
Corn starch jelly (i^ qts and cream 18
cents.)
Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers condi-
ments (45 cents.)
Milk and buttermilk 3 gallons 36,
cream, 3 pts 30, butter i% Ibs 25, bread
8, coffee, tea, sugar 22 (121 cents.)
Total $6 08; 45 persons; 13^ cents a
plate.
930 Consnmme St. Xavier.
A brown vegetable broth with a kind
of nudel paste in it.
Make a good consomme as usual, with
brown roasted chicken and beef in it if
practicable or make good with meat ex-
tract, and add to it a small portion of
vegetables cut fine.
Make a yellow egg batter about as stiff
as for fritters, with 8 yolks, a spoonful of
water and flour sufficient and add a
small amount of minced parsley and
salt. Let some one stir the consomme
around while you pour the batter in a
colander and let it drip through the
holes into the consomme which immedi-
ately cooks it in rounded lumps an-
other form of nudel soup.
There is another way of reaching a
similar result, that is by putting the yolks
in a pan and carefully mixing flour with
them with the finger tips while shaking
the pan at the same time, making loose
yellow crumbs of nudel dough, soft but
separate, and then scatter them loosely
into the boiling soup. American cooks
call this "riffle soup."
St. Xavier is the name of a place.
931 Lake Trcut a la Genevoise.
Fish baked in wine and served on toast
in gravy.
Take a 5-pound trout, cleanse and wipe
dry ; score through the skin on both sides
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
where the individual portions are to be
taken off, and also sever the bone by
striking the point of a knife through.
Dredge salt and pepper in a buttered
baking-pan, put in the fish, a pint of wine,
an onion stuck with cloves, and bunch of
parsley and thyme. Set in the oven and
bake and baste the fish while baking very
frequently. The gelatinous gravy from
the' fish makes a glaze with the wine,
which is to be coated over it by the bast-
ing. When done, which should be in half
an hour, take up the fish into a dish,
pour a pint of broth in the pan and make
gravy, thickening with brown roux,
strain, skim, make pieces of toast, serve
toast in each dish, well saturated with
the sauce and a cut of the glazed fish
upon it and round slice of lemon dipped
in parsley dust on top.
To serve whole in this style the head
should be left on and the fish should be
brown and shining, and placed upon a
large crouton foundation of fried bread
cut to its shape and the wine gravy
poured around with garnishments o f
lemon and special forms of potatoes and
small croutons.
932 French Potato Fritters or
Beignets.
This makes 25, small size for garnish-
ing:
12 ounces potato 2 cups mashed.
y z cup flour 2 ounces
2 tablespoons cream.
Same of white wine or sherry
3 eggs and 2 yolks
Salt, nutmeg and cayenne.
Take the potatoes from the dinner
steamer and mash the required amount
through a colander and while still warm
mix in the other ingredients except the
flour. 1 he mixture should be in a deep
pan or saucepan and set in C9ld water.
While it is cooling whip it light with
an egg whisk, then stir in the flour.
Drop small spoonfuls egg-shaped in
hot lard, fry light colored, drain on pa-
per, serve 9ne in each plate of fish and
with any dish that is a la Dauphinoise.
Cost, about 10 cents for 25 fritters.
933 Mutton Stew, a la Irlar.daise.
The half-French bill-of-fare name for
Irish stew, No. 60. But there can be
beef stew a la Irlandaise us well as mut-
ton ; it is beef stewed with potatoes, and
a very cheap dish. It is good with to-
matoes added, but then these stews have
other names, for the original Irish stew
lias no tomatoes, and some people,
driven almost insane through everything
that is brought to them in an hotel being
flavored with tomatoes against their lik-
ing, (the consequence of the indiscrimi-
nate use of Spanish sauce), are glad to
turn to it for relief, and hope it will al-
ways keep its original character. In
writing a bill of fare observe that when
"a la" comes before a vowel, as in Irland-
aise or a I'ltalienne or a 1'Andalouse
the second "a" is omitted, and the apos-
trophe takes its place; but the full "a la"
comes in before a consonant, like a la
Richelieu.
934 Macaroni a la Palermetane.
The special name of the dish at No.
65. Itahenne is right, too, for it is a gen-
eral appellation for any form of macaroni
or Italian pastes. Palermetane means of
the city of Palermo, in Italy, just as we
might say Bostonian or Coloradan.
935 Peaches with Rice, a la Rich-
elieu.
Prepare some cooked peaches in syrup
a compote of peaches and prepare
some rice the same as for croquette or
rice cake, that is, slightly sweetened and
flavored, and with the yolk of an egg or
two in it.
Dish up a spoonful of rice, smooth it
around in the dish, place half a peach on
top and pour syrup over it. It is a sweet
entree like the fruit fritters, etc .
936 -Stewed Carrots.
Scrape young carrots, split and divide
in quarters lengthwise, boil or steam
about an hour. Put them in butter
sauce, cream sauce or plain butter only,
changing the style on different days.
937 Huckleberry Roil Pudding, or
Rnfy-Poly.
Make biscuit dough by the receipt at
'34
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
No. 515, which is good for the purpose as
it is,T)ut if you would have the dough so
that it will peel apart in flakes after cook-
ing, roll it out thin on the table, and
spread a half-cup of lard or butter upon
it; then fold it up and roll out twice.
The last time of rolling out cover the
sheet of dough with huckleberries (or
other fruit) cut in two or three, roll up,
put in pudding cloth, tie the ends and
pin or sew the middle, and either drop in
a roomy pot of boiling water or cook in a
steamer. They cook in an hour or little
more. Should be timed as they are not
so gO9d if kept long after they are done.
Dip in water when taken up and the
cloth will leave the pudding easily when
unrolled. Serve with hard sauce or
cream.
938 Floating Island.
It is a piece of cake floating in a bowl
of boileq custard; the cake should be
spread with fruit jelly and have a pile of
whipped cream on top. Sponge cake
and the varieties made out of the same
mixture are the best to use. Several other
trifles besides are called Floating Islands.
Make two quarts of boiled custard and
let it be ice-cold for use. Make sponge
drops (round lady-fingers same as No. 4.)
Spread with currant jelly, drop in the pan
of custard ; then serve in saucers or glasses
with plenty of custard and whipped
cream. Costs one cent a dish.
939 Corn Starch Jelly.
This can be made v^ry good, if not
spoiled by the use of too much lemon or
too much starch.
5 cups water a quart and a cup.
i/^ cups sugar 12 ounces.
i small lemon.
3 heaping tablespoons starch 3 ounces.
Boil 4 cups water with the sugar in it,
and juice of the lemon and half the rind
cut in small shreds. Mix the starch with
the other cup, and stir it into the boiling
syrup. Let simmer about 15 minutes to
become transparent and almost clear.
Pour it into custard cups, or any kind of
moulds. Serve in saucers with a spoonful
of sweetened cream whipped to froth.
Can be colored with burnt sugar or with
iced fruit-juice. Cost : i^ qts 12, cream
5 ; 17 cents for eighteen portions.
They said they would come again and
they are coming. Telegram for Mr.
Farewell at 3 o'clock this afternoon ask-
ing him to prepare a wedding breakfast
for them for to-morrow at n : they to be
married in the parlor of the hill cottage
at 10. "Simple and informal; no fuss/'
the Colonel added at the bottom of his
dispatch ; they generally say that, but are
wofully disappointed it they don't find a
fuss bsing made about their momentous
proceedings. This is no way to do ; they
ought to have given us time to send to
the city for the ready-made decorations
for the wedding-cake ; for floral designs ;
paper cases for confections; there is no
time for anything. Well, this means that
somebody in this house will have to work
all night, or nearly all, and the bride's
cake will not be worth a cent to cut up, so
fresh, scarcely cold unless made at once
and set in the refrigerator. Wish I knew
which is the winner in that match, the
colonel or the banker's daughter sup-
pose a novelist could tell plain enough,
but then it is none of our business, Any-
thing for a change; however, I'm glad
they chose this place for their breakfast.
From the 1 1 o'clock train this morning
Mr. Farewell brought over their Mary
Jane, the one that cooks for them in their
city house. He said that as but two
. weeks of the time now remains of the
j eight weeks for which I am engaged he
I should like his home cook to stay in the
' kitchen and try ^ to catch on I mean
take items, and pick up ideas about cook-
ing for the future benefit of his family
and himself, if I was willing as of course
I am. Said she is sadly deficient in the
styles of putting food on the dishes, does
not know how to make a good dish look
good, much less how to make a common
one look better than it is, and much
more. I know what he means, but he
could not explain, neither can I it is the
trimming and shaping, flattening and
squaring, the clean draining of the fries,
the crispness, the gloss, the color, the
garnishing. Now I shall tell her that
looking on is all very well, but it is not
equal to taking hold, and instead of sil-
ting at the door she may take upon her-
self to pick up something to make supper
for the guests whilst I make the wedding-
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
cake.
940 A P.cke -up Suppe: fir Forty
Oatmeal (3 cups raw near 3 qts, 7
cents.)
Beefsteak (cooked 20, small, 2^ Ibs 35
cents,)
Mutton chops (cooked 16, small, 2 Ibs
30 cents.)
Cold meats (charged dinner.)
Biscuits (made 45 ; 22 cents.)
Potatoes (baked and saute, 10 cents.)
Cakes assorted (2% Ibs 25 cents.)
Hpney in comb (3 Ibs 38 cents.)
Milk, 2^ gals 30, cream 20, bread and
toast 12, butter, 1% Ibs 30, cofiee, tea,
sugar 23 (115 cents.)
Total $2 82 : 43 persons ; 6$ cents a
plate.
941 Wedding Cake.
2 pounds sugar 4 cups.
1 y 2 pounds butter 3 cups.
12 eggs.
2 pounds flour 8 cups.
8 taplespoons wine ; same of brandy.
6 nutmegs grvind or grated.
5 pounds raisins.
4 pounds currants.
2 pounds crtron.
Stone the raisins, wash and dry the
currants, cut citron small, mix them and
dust with a cup of flour.
Mix the first four ingredients together
as it for pound cake, add the liquors,
nutmeg, and then the fruit.
Line the mould with buttered paper,
and wrap another paper around the out-
side and tie it with twine. Bake the
cake about three hours.
Made i large cake in a 6-qt milk pan,
weighs 14 pounds, and'i small cake 4
pounds. Cost : sugar @ 8, 16 ; butter @
20, 30; eggs 15; flour @3^, 8; liquors
25; nutmegs 3; raisins @ u, 55; cur-
rants @ 7, 28; citron @ 25, 50.
Total $2 30 for 18 pounds or 13 cents
a pound for material.
942 Cost of Ornam anted Cakes.
The confectioners and caterers fol-
lowing a similar rule to the other em-
ployers of skilled labor, charge for the or-
namentation of a cake about double the
amount that they pay in wages for the
time consumed; if a man to whom they
my three dollars a day consumes a whole
day in the elaborate decoration of a wed-
ding cake the charge of the ornamenting
alone will be about six dollars, and of the
cake complete perhaps ten dollars. The
same man rr.ay perhaps ornament a large
number of cakes at Christmas or New
Year's on each of which he will spend
but half an hour, and the price will be
accordingly. The imported ornaments
upon a fine cake may very likely swell
the cost to twenty-five or fifty dollars.
Wedding Breaktast.
. , Menu.
Fresh Peaches Sliced.
Boned Chicken with Truffles.
Tomatoes in mayonaise.
Ribbon Sandwiches.
Lamb Cutlets', a la Maintenon.
Potatoes Baden-Baden.
Partridge Souffles in Cases.
Dry and Buttered Toast.
White Coffee.
Ornamented Wedding Cake.
Delicate Cake. Apricot Ice Cream.
The breakfast was set^ on the long ta-
e in large dishes, family style, though
we did not send in all at once and of
course the table was set out to the best
advantage with the few ornamented
dishes, glass and china and a few flowers.
The marriage took place at half past ten
and the carriages drove up to the door a
"ew minutes later. The two principals
n the business took very little lunch and
:hat of the first division of the menu, the
service froid; the bride cut the large cake
n divisions which I had marked pre-
viously, to make it easy, and gave away
he pieces, and it did not crumble much
considering how newly made it was, but
had kept it almost frozen all night that
t might cut well. The hostess did up
he small cake, the four-pound one, and
put it in one of their traveling satchels,
hen they got into the carriage and two or
hree others followed and were driven to
SAJV FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
"the Glen," where they could catch a
train at one o'clock. After they were
gone the rest of the company went back
to the table ; we served the lunch in good
earnest, and they made a meal of it, and
did a little talking, too, I suppose.
Cost of material :
Early peaches, i basket $i oo
Boned truffled chicken ^ oo
Tomatoes mayonaise 40
Ribbon sandwiches, 30 75
Lamb cutlets, garnished i 90
Potatoes 12
Souffles in cases i 10
Ornamented wedding cakes with, 5
Ibs icing, 23 Ibs in all 3 oo
Delicate cake 5 Ibs 60
Coffee 30
Apricot ice cream, 2^ qts 75
Toast, butter, trimmings 50
Total $1342
25 persons* 54 cents a plate.
The repast was ordered for twenty, but
25 persons, and probably several more,
made it their midday meal and it is fair-
ly charged as above, the three-dollar
cake included in expense account with
the manager.
943 Boned Chicken with Truffles.
Bone one fat young fowl and take the .
white meat of two more and mince it fine j
for stuffing. Put the minced chicken in i
a saucepan with the two ounces of but-
ter, and about a third as much bread
panada as there is meat ; add a slight sea-
soning of herbs, salt and white pepper
and two raw eggs and stir the whole over
the fire until it is cooked to a smooth
paste; then put in a small can of truffles
whole or only the larger ones cut in two.
Stuff the boned chicken with the mix-
ture, sew up, lined in a cloth in good oval
form, boil two hours and press between
two dishes. When cold, brush over the
outside with melted butter, cut two or
three truffles in shapes such as round
slices with crescents and dots on each
side and decorate the surface of the fowl,
place it on a dish ornamented with lemon
slices and parsley and keep cold until
wanted. Then slice thinly and serve
cold. The truffles in the stuffing should
show as they are sliced through in every
cut.
Cost: 3 fowls, 75; truffles 2 oo, season-
ings, garnish, 15 ; $2 90 for 20 to 25 slices.
944 Tomatoes in Mlayonaise.
Pare good, smooth tomatoes with a
very sharp knife without scalding them
and they will retain their crispness, which
scalding destroys ; then slice each one in
three or four. Lay three of these slices
in a glass plate and place a teaspoon of
mayonaise salad dressing (No. 151) upon
each. Serve very cold.
To serve these we covered two -large
dishes with shred lettuce, set seven plates
of tomatoes in each one and bordered
them with small lumps of ice; placed
them on table last thing before the meal
began and removed them early.
945 Ribbon Sandwiches.
Cut thin slices of the finest and whitest
bread of close grain and newly baked and
remove the crust. Spread with potted
ham or tongue, roll them up and tie them
around with narrow satin ribbon, making
a neat true-lover's knot on each. Fold
napkins fan-shaped for two dishes and
pile up the rolled sandwiches in pyramidal
form.
946 Lamb Cutlets, a la Maintenon.
They are choice rib chops of lamb or
mutton the bones scraped, half-cooked
in a pan to shrink them, seasoned,
spread on one side with a thick, white
sauce, sprinkled with cut truffles baked in
a buttered pan in the upper part of a hot
oven to get a yellow-brown, served with
paper frills upon the bones, The garnish
for a breakfast dish may be a border of
shapes of thin toast and for dinner a bed
of peas or other accompaniment. To
make the sauce, as good a way as any is
to make a white roux of four ounces but-
ter and the same of flour; and when they
have been stirred over the fire until well
cooked, add but half quantity of liquor
(either broth or < liquor from a can of
mushrooms), which will be about t\yo
cups, and cook well with constant stir-
COOKING JFOR PROFIT.
'S?
ring. Season with salt and white pepper,
set the sauce away to get cold, then use it
as ab ve named, spreading it thickly on
the cutlets and sntooth over with a wet
knife before putting on the trfflues.
Small triangles of thin toast are best to
border a large dish as these cutlets must
lie flat with the frilled ends outwards.
Cost : 20 cutlets 60, truffles i oo, sauce,
etc., 20; $i 80.
Named for Madame de Maintenon, a
lady of the French court.
947 Potatoes a la Baden-Baden.
The same as No. 142; simmered in
butter first, then drained and carefully
baked to a yellow brown in the oven and
sprinkled with parsley and fine salt.
To serve them, fry a number of small
lettuce leaves in lard or oil as you would
fry Saratoga potatoes. The leaves should
be of heart lettuce and be shell shaped.
Out of the many, which take but a few
minutes to fry, select the best, bronze-
colored, dry and of good shade; drain
them hollow side downward on a sheet
of paper spread on a hot pan. Serve the
potatoes in them set in individual dishes,
and handed to each place as the cutlets
are being passed from the large dish.
Baden-Baden is a fashionable watering-
place.
948 Partridge Souffles in Cases.
Roast three partridges, young guinea
fowls or common chickens, pick off the
meat without skin or tendons, mince it
extremely fine and then pound to a paste
and rub it through a sieve. This is a
difficult matter to do with any but young
and tender partridges or chickens and
there ought to be a stone mortar to pound
the meat in. However, it can be done
without by taking precaution not to try
with eld birds. A souffle is a puff, and
this mixture will not puff if not quite a
smooth paste.
Make a thick butter sauce the same as
for spreading cutlets a la Maintenon,
with mushroom liquor, if convenient.
Take i l / 2 cups of the sauce to four cups
of the chicken paste, season with salt,
pepper, a slight grating of nutmeg and
si me of lemon rind, add a spoonful of
mushroom catsup and stir over the fire
until boiling hot. Then set away to cool.
Separate the whites and yolks of eight
eggs, whip them both light," add the yolks
to the mixture first, then the frothed
whites. Put the souffle in twenty fancy
paper cases, bake about 15 minutes, and
send them in as soon as they are done,
lor they fall as they become cool with
waiting. Serve in the cases on large
dishes with plates of buttered toast to
follow.
Cost: iy 2 Ibs selected partridge meat
60, sauce 10, eggs, seasonings 15, paper
cases 25; $r 10 for 20. Paper cases can
be bought of confectioners or made at
home. They hold about as much as a
patty or gem pan and are of various
shapes.
949-White Coffee a la Soyer.
Is made with coffee that, instead of
being browned is only baked to a slight
yellow color and is not ground, or at
most the berries are only bruised, and is
made with one-half milk and one-half
water. It requires twice as much coffee
as the ordinary.
For 8 cups take :
2 cups light baked coffee berries.
4 cups boiling water.
cups boiling milk.
The berries may have been parched
bef9re, but when wanted, heat them over
again and throw them hot into the boiling
water, Close the lid and let stand to
draw for half an hour; then add the boil-
ing milk through a strainer. Drop a ta-
blespoon of whipped cream in each cup
as it is carried in.
950 Apricot (ce Cream
5 cups cream.
2 cups canned (or cooked) apricots.
i l A cups sugar.
Pass the apricots without the syrup
through a sieve. Freeze the cream and
sugar first to guard against curdling by
the fruit ; then add the apricot pulp and
finish the freezing.
951 Four Thousand Meals.
So that couple got safely married and
'38
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
went away; still the number of guests in
the house is steadily increasing. It seems (
almost a pity there was not a story teller j
here making a book out of what he saw, for
it will be remembered, those young ladies
from the Trulirural House never came
over here to boaid until they saw the
Colonel sailing around with his best girl ;
and it stands to reason that there must
have been unmeasured mischief in the
air, and plotting and counter plotting;
and alt that is lost. But every man to his
trade, as the saying is. The way our
part of the play comes in is just this : we
have got things down to such a fine point
by keeping tally this way that, after a lit-
tle figuring in the spare hours of the re-
maining two weeks, we shall all know ex-
actly what it is^going to cost that young
couple to live, in whichever style, wheth-
er in a soup-entree-and-dessert order of
existence in a mansion on Euclid or
Michigan Avenue or St. Charles or Sac-
ramento street, or on bread and cheese
and kisses a la mode on laborers' wages in
Smoky Alley. Then we shall know how
much Mrs. Tingee makes off her board-
ers and shall see plainly how some people
managed to get rich so quickly at the
New Orleans Exposition, and, moreover,
we shall know how to go about preparing
a banquet for 4,000 people.
For, with the wedding breakfast for a
finish, the bell has sounded the call 130
times and we have served 4,000 meals.
The reasons are cogent for drawing the
line at this even number: the stock of
groceries laid in on a calculation for one
month, which did not arrive until one
week was past, has lasted one week over
a month and is now exhausted. Mar-
keting is beginning to come in from the
farms at all sorts of irregular prices ; ap-
ples, poultry, vegetables, all getting cheap
but impossible to keep track of, and but-
ter :and eggs correspondingly advanced ;
in short wo have had a rare opportunity,
it has been well improved and now the
favorable conditions no longer exist.
952 Review.
In keeping the foregoing accounts o
lost of dishes and meals there has been
trio attempt and no wish to argue that one
style of living is better than another;
those who must set out cheap meals will
look at the comparative cost of dishes,
taking notice at the same time of the
number of orders that can be served from
them, and choose always to make those
:hat are least expensive while others who
"umish a complete hotel bill of fare will
ind an approximate figure to show what
the expense ought to be. In this matter
of meals and prices, too, ^instead of fic-
ticiously changing and improving the
summer boarding house and its facilities
I have studiously represented it as it is
with the restrictions as to markets, the
lack of proper utensils, the scarcity of
"help," and such things as usually fur-
nish excuses for a p09r table, because I
believe this was a fair average of such
houses and I did not want a model place
to set up a pattern by. Our advantages
lay in having express facilities and in be-
ing in close proximity to a creamery and
a cheese factory which established low
prices for dairy products and at the same
time caused the offerings to be plentiful,
the whole neighborhood being engaged
in the milk business. This it will be seen
was an important item, and still the
greater number of country houses are as
well fixed as we were ; it may be by keep-
ing cows of their own, and most cf them
have far better gardens. In counting
the cost of soups I have first added to the
price of steaks and roasts the loss of
bones and trimmings, making meat that
costs ii cents at first rate at 15 or 20
cents a pound when the net weight was
reached, and then have valued these
bones and cullings at about 2 cents a
pound in soup; vegetables, quenelles,
eags, and all such ingredients have been
duly allowed for. It did not prove feasi-
ble to show some things in the way of
small economies such as every sensible
cook puts in practice how the cold rice
left from a previous dinner and the can
of peaches opened but scarcely touched,
for the preceding supper become the
"peaches a la Richelieu" of to-day's din-
ner; or how the can of corn, too much
yesterday, becomes the green corn fritters
on a new bill. 1'hcrc has been greater
watchfulness over the waste Awhile this
record was being kept, than would have
been necessary' in the ordinary run of
work, but otherwise all has been done
according to common iisa^c, and the
sums total will provo. reliable data or
future calculations.
COOKING JFOR PROflT.
'39
953 Croceres for Four Thousand.
Bill at No. 520 $109 52
Bought additional :
Mushrooms, 4 cans i 20
Shrimps, 2 cans retail 55
Lobster, 2 cans 45
Salad oil i qt i oo
Wine igt 90
Brandy for cooking i oo
Catsup, 3 bottles 2 oo
Gelatine, 4 packages 80
Chocolate, i Ib 40
Sundry canned goods 4 70
Compressed yeast 200
Total $124 52
954 Yeast and Baking Powder.
Roast beef (2 ribs 4 Ibs 50 cents.)
Stuffed shoulder mutton, a la Soubise
(3 Ibs and trimmings 40 cents.)
Saute of chicken with rissotto (4 chick-
ens and trimmings no cents.)
Kromeskies, a la Venitienne (16 orders
32 cents.)
New com 20, string beans 3, onions in
cream 5, turnips 3, rice 4, potatoes 15
(50 cents.)
Cream curd pudding (No. 538 increas-
ed, 38 cents.)
Potato cream pie (3 pies 30 cents.)
Bisque of pineapple ice cream (No,
206 with twice the cream to same fruit ;
3 qts frozen 85 cents.)
Golden cake (20 cents.)
Blackberries and apples, cheese, nuts,
pickles (45 cents.)
Bought compressed yeast, used regu-
larly twice a day 5 cents a day, 40 days,
$200
Baking powder used occasionally cost
$260
955 Meat, Fish and Poultry for
Four Thousand.
Bought meat 888 Ibs at average 12 cents,
includjng expressage, $106 56.
Bought fish 232 Ibs at average 10 cents,
including expressage, $23 20 ;
Bought poultry 93 Ibs @i2, $11 16.
Total, $140 92.
A fraction over 3^ cents each person
each meal for meat, fish and poultry, and
discarding fractions, about 4^ ounces
each or i Ib gross for 4 persons. Meat
loses on an average one-fourth the raw
weight in bone, and parts with one-fourth
more to the soup or gravy pan and in fat
and evaporation in cooking, -consequent-
ly only about 2 y% ounces is consumed by
each person on an average.
Dinner.
August 14.
Soup Consomme Colbert (5 qts 24
eggs 55 cents.)
Trout with Chili, Mexican style (4 Ibs
and sauce 50 cents.)
Potatoes Chilian.
Boiled ham (2 orders 4 cents.)
Milk 10 qts 30, cream 3 pts 30, coffee,
1 tea, sugar, bread, butter 42 (102 cents.)
Total $7 ii : 48 persons, nearly 15 cents
a plate.
956 Consomme Colbert.
Clear consomme with small vegetables
and green peas in it and a poached egg
dropped in each plate when served.
Make the consomme same as Brunoise
or jardiniere and have the eg2;s poached
nearly hard, ready in a pan of hoc water,
| to dip up as wanted.
Colbert was the name of a French
statesman.
957 Trcut w.th Chili, Mexican Style.
The Mexican chili pepper is no stronger
than curry powder. It is deep red, and is
sometimes called sweet pepper and col-
oring pepper; \L much used in the South
and by the Creoles.
Split open the fish, lay it white side up
in a buttered baking pan, season with
salt, and dredge enough cnili pepper to
color it red; pour a little broth if nec-
essary to keep the corners of the pan from
burning. Bake the fish half an hour and
serve with Spanish sauce in the dish or
else with veal gravy and little tomato
catsup added, and potatoes in some spe-
cial form in the same plate.
958 Potatoes, Chilian Style.
Mashed potatoes sliced cold, like cold
140
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
mush to fry, the slices cut in. shapes,
floured and sauted in oil or drippings.
Season the potatoes when mashing with
chili pepper as well as salt, and broth
but no butter; rather soft that they may
cake together well. The slices cut off
can be cut in diamonds or in rounds with
a small cutter.
959 Stuffed Mutton, a la Soubise.
Soubise always means with onions
either white or brown. Take a shoulder
and bone it. Cut 4 slices of bread in dice
and throw them in a frying pan ; put in
also a good-sized onion, cut up small, or
a buncli of green onions, a spoonful of
roast meat fat and same of water and
pepper and salt to season. Stir over the
fire till well mingled. Spread this stuffing
over the mutton, roll up, and braise ten-
der.
Take 3 or 4 onions from the saucepan
where they are cooking as a vegetable for
dinner, mince and pass through a strainer
and mix in sufficient brown sauce or
gravy.
Soubise has reference to a prince de
Soubise who made an onion sauce.
960 Saute of Chicken with Rissotto.
Rissotto is rice; this is seasoned the
Italian way with salt, cayenne, minced
onions, ham and saffron, which makes it
yellow. As saffron is not used and not
wanted much in this country, a little cur-
ry serves as a substitute.
Chop 3 or 4 chickens into small pieces,
saute them in a large frying pan and make
a thicken2d gravy to them. Add mush-
rooms if affordecf.
Fry some fat ham, minced onion in the
fat, little curry, broth to make gravy and
put in boiled rice and stir up.
Dish rice at one side of the dish and
chicken at the other, or chicken in the
middle and rice pressed into a patty pan
to give it a shape and turned out into the
dish of chicken.
Take the remains of cooked chicken,
some of the livers and hearts cooked,
I and small quantity of lean ham, enough
altogether to make two cups pressed, or a
pound. Stir a teaspoonful each of butter
and flour together over the fire and putin
a Jialf cup water or broth. Season rather
highly with pepper, mushroom or wal-
nut catsup, thyme and grated lemon peel,
add the minced chicken, which makes a
stiff sort of sausage meat; set it away to
get cold. When cool enough make in
shape like corks of champagne bottles.
Cut bacon slices as thin as possible ; roll
up the mince in a slice of bacon, dip in
batter and fry light colored. Serve with
sauce.
961 Krcmeskies a la Venitienne.
Minced meat rolled in thin bacon,
dipped in batter and fried and ?
with white Italian sauce.
962 White Italian Sauce.
9 Make butter sauce and use mushroom
liquor from the cans instead of water.
Let the sauce be rather thinner than the
usual butter sauce. Slice button mush-
rooms, about a dozen to a pint of sauce,
and put in, and a spoonful of minced
parsley. Same as Venetian sauce except
the lemon juice.
963 Corn in the Ear.
Leave a few of the husks on the ears
and drop them that way into a boiler of
salted water. Boil about half an hour.
When to be served take hold with a clean
napkin and pull off husks and silk. Take
a knife and cut out one row of grains by
drawing the point down both sides ; then
send in the ears.
964 Potato Cream Pie.
2 large cups mashed potato a pound.
i cup sugar % pound.
Small cup butter 6 ounces.
S/ggs.
% cup milk.
Flavoring of some kind.
Boil good mealy potatoes and mash
them through a sieve ; mix the butter in
while warm, then sugar, milk and flavor-
ing. Separate the eggs and beat both
yolks and whites guite light and stir them
^ just before baking. MaKes three me-
iram oie-s, open like pumpkin pies. Sift
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
powdered sugar over when done. If you
use brandy or wine in any dishes put y&
cup in the above mixture; if not use
vanilla or nutmeg and a trifle more milk.
965 Go den Cake.
2 cups sugar i pound light.
i cup butter % pound.
i cup water.
18 yolks about i^ cups.
4 teaspoons baking powder.
6 cups flour i Vz pounds.
This cake should be made after white
cake or icing has left the yolks of eggs on
hand. Beat the yolks and sugar and
water together 5 minutes ; melt the butter
and beat it in, then the powder and flour.
Heat five minutes more. May be baked
in one mould or in shallow pans. About
four pounds costs 39 cents or 10 cents a
pound.
966 FLur for Four Thousand.
Bought flour 550 Ibs at 3^ ....... $19 25
Bought corn meal, 33 Ibs at 2 ____ 66
Bought graham flour, 20 Ibs at 3. 60
Total .......... ............ $2051
Averaging 2*6 ounces for each person,
each meal at cost of cent each.
967 Sugar for Four Thousand.
Bought 276 Ibs at 8 cents $22 08
A little over i ounce each person, each
meal, used for all purposes, and costing
about y<z cent each.
968 -Coffee for Four Th.usand.
Bought 30 Ibs Java at 28 cents. . . $8 40
About one-fifth of a cent each person,
each meal; but as this was in summer
weather, when ice-water and milk were
in greater request, the amount will be no
guide except under similar conditions.
Dinner
August 15.
Soup cream of barley (7 qts 40 cents.)
Boiled whitefish, shrimp sauce (4 Ibs
and sauce 55 cents.)
Potatoes maitre d'hotel.
Corned beef and cabbage (i Ib and
cabbage 15 cents.)
Roast beef (flank braised tender, 4 Ibs
32 cents.)
Spring lamb, brown sauce (7 Ibs 80
cents.)
Young pigeon Die (i^ doz squabs 120,
trimmings 20, 36 orders 140 cents.)
Macaroni a la Genoise (20 oraers 12
cents.)
Roasted corn 25, beets, 4, summer
squash 12, tomatoes 10, potatoes 15 (71
cents.)
Baked sago pudding, lemon sauce (30
orders with sauce 36 cents.)
Sliced apple pie (No. 178, 4 pies 40
cents.)
White Mountain ice cream (3 qts milk
to i qt cream, etc., 60 cents.)
Sponge cake (common, No. 975, 24
cents.)
Blackberries and apples, nuts, cheese,
crackers pickles (50 cents.)
Milk, cream 60, coffee, tea, sugar,
bread, butter 48 (108 cents.)
Total $7 58 : 50 persons ; little over 15
cents a plate.
969 Cream of Barley Soap.
It is puree of barley mixed with half
stock and hall milk.
Boil 2 cups pearl barley in plenty of
water and strain the water away as it is of
a dark color. Then put the barley into
3 quarts of milk and cook at the back of
the stove or set on bricks for an hour or
more, toil 4 quarts of stock with a cut-
up carrot, onion, turnip and bunch of
parsley in k. Pass the barley and milk
through a strainer (fine or C9arse accord-
ing as you have time, for it is tedious),
and mash the barley that remains with
some stock to hasten the operation.
Strain the seasoned stock into the barley
puree, keep hot without boiling, add salt
and white pepper and serve with crusts
in the plates. A shorter way is to cook
the barley tender, mash it to a paste and
put it into the stock and milk without
passing the barley through a sieve. In
that case no crusts need be served as
there will be barley grains in the soup.
142
SAN JFRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
970- Potatoes, Maitre d'Hotei.
Pick out the smallest new potatoes,
scrape or pare, and boil them. Drain
away the water, put in a little fresh, and
lump of butter, salt and a spoonful of vin-
egar, and thicken slightly with flour ; boil
up and lastly shake in a spoonful of
chopped parsley. It is a thin, creamy
sauce like Venetian, without mushrooms,
and only enough to cover the potatoes.
971 Pigeon or Squab Pie.
Young pigeons, called squabs in this
country, are pigeonneaux in French. The
price varies greatly with locality ; we paid
80 cents a dozen. This is a pie ^yith
brown gravy instead of white 's in chick
en pie.
Take 1 8 squabs, pick, singe, 9pen down
the back, draw, and divide in halves;
wash and dry them and flatten with the
cleaver. Pepper, salt and flour them on
both sides. Melt y 2 pound of butter in
the baking pan the pie is to be made in,
lay in the squabs and Jpake them light
brown. Pour into the pan about 2 quarts
of broth or water and continue tne bak-
ing. When done sufficiently thicken the
gravy, add walnut catsup or a little Wor-
cestershire sauce and salt and pepper,
cover with a short crust and bake twenty
minutes longer. When the crust of a
meat pie gives out before the meal, bake
a thin crust by itself on a baking pan ; cut
it in squares and use to finish the. meal.
972 -Macaroni a la Geno se.
6 cups milk 3 pints.
y 2 cup sugar.
Butter size of an egg.
4 eggs or 8 yolks.
Grated lemon rind or other flavor.
Boil the milk with the sugar in it
which prevents burning dredge in the
sago, push the kettle to the back of the
stove, or set on bricks and cook about y z
hour. Beat the eggs, mix all, bake in a
3 quart pan, about y% hour more. Serve
with lemon syrup sauce the transparent
sauce with lemon juice and rind in it.
Cost : 20 cents for over 2 quarts or 30 or-
ders.
Macaroni plain boiled, served with
Spanish sauce or any meat gravy poured
first in the dish, the macaroni in that and
a dredging of grated cheese on top.
973 Roasiing Ears Roasted.
Pull off the outside husks, but leave
the ears well covered, throw them in the
oven on the bottom, get up a good heat,
and they will be done in half an hour.
Pull off husks and silk, cut out one row
to start the eaters fairly.
975 Cor, mm on Sponge Cake.
2 cups granulated sugar a pound
scant.
8 eggs. .
1 cup water y^ pint.
4 rounded cups floui 18 ounces.
2 large teaspoons baking powder.
Separate the eggs, the whites into a
good-sized bowl, the yolks into the mix-
ing pan. Put the sugar and water with
the yolks, and beat up until they are
light and thick. Mix the powder ^in the
flour by sifting together. Whip the
whites to a very firm froth, and when
they are ready stir the flour into the yolk
mixture, and mix in the whipped whites
last.
Cost : 24 cents for over 3 pounds.
976 Butter for Four Thousand.
Bought 13 lots butter ranging 25,
20, 19, 15, 12 cents; average 19 cents
Ibs 210 at 19, $39 oo.
Bought lard 37 IDS at 14, $5 18.
Total, $45 08.
Ta ble butter kept entirely separate ; the
consumption is a fraction under y z ounce
each person each meal ; when part butter
and part lard is used for cooking and the
whole butter and lard bill counted to-
gether, the consumption for all purposes
averages a fraction under one ounce each
person each meal and the cost is i}6
cents each.
974 -Sago Custard Pudding.
i heaped cup sago ^ pound.
977--Eggs for Four Thousand,
Bought 142 doz at 15 cents, $21 30.
COOKING fOR PROFIT.
That is 1704 eggs; ess than Y 2 egg for
each person; but as they were offered
only for breakfast it allowed one egg
each for the one-third number and left
3.74 eggs for the cooking ; and when be-
sides that, the individuals who are not
expected to want eggs were counted out,
it left the usual 2 eggs apiece for proper
orders.
978 Potatoes to Four Thou. and.
.Bought 1 6 bushels ranging 50, 60, 75
cents.
Total, $9 95.
16 bushels are 960 pounds; about J^
Ib each person each meal at cost of J^
cent each. Potatoes lose one-third the
gross weight if pared raw.
9?9 Fresh Vegetables and Fruits for
Four Thousand.
Bought at sundry times and some from
the garden to the amount of $14 oo.
9 80 Canned Fruits and Vegetables
for Four Thousand.
Bought vegetables 53 cans $ 795
Bought fruits, 60 cans 1125
Mushrooms, shrimps and lobster,
8 cans. .
2 20
Total $21 40
Dinner
August 16.
Soup consomme Claremont (6 qts 36
cents.)
Pike, a la Genoise (6 Ibs gross and
sauce 60 cents.)
Potatoes French fried.
Boiled corned tongue and cabbage
(tongue 30, with cabbage 35 cents.)
Roast guinea chicken, currant jelly (8
fowls 2 oo.)
Collops of beef, a la Macedoine (2 Ibs
22, vegetables 10, 18 orders 32 cents.)
Epigramme of lamb, Bordelaise (2 Ibs,
16 orders 24 cents.)'
Calf's head in batter, sauce piquante
2 head 30, total 16 orders 45 cents.)
Cut-on corn 20, hot slaw 5, squash 8,
tomatoes 10, potatoes 15 (58 cents.)
Baked farina pudding, vanilla sauce (5
pts and sauce 36 orders 32 cents.)
Blueberry shortcake with cream (4
cakes, 32 orders with cream 55 cents.)
Chocolate cup custard (2 qts, 24 cus-
tard cups, 20 cents.)
Butter sponge cake d Ib 10 cents.)
Milk, cream 60, coffee, tea, sugar,
bread, butter 52 (112 cents.)
Total $7 19 : 50 persons ; 14^ cents a
plate.
981 Consomme Claremont.
f Clear cons9mme, like royal, with crisp
light fried onions in rings ojropped in the
plates. Having the consomme prepared
and well flavored with meat extract and
catsup, cui some onions in slices across
and separate the slices into rings; throw
these into a pan of flour and dust well;
then into clean hot lard, and let fry yel-
low and dry. Drain free from grease,
and put a small proportion in each plate
as served. It requires a little practice to
fry onions this way successfully just as it
does to fry Saratoga chips. Claremont is
the name of a place and a palace.
982 Pike, a la Genoise.
Place the fish in the baking pan with-
out splitting open, but scored across
where the portions are to be taken off.
Slice a small carrot, piece of turnip, an
onion and stalk of celery into the pan,
and cut a slice of fat salt pork and mix
in. Add a bayleaf, salt, pepper and a
pint of soup stock. Bake brown with fre-
quent basting for over half an hour. Then
take up the fish wi:h a fish-slice carefully
into a dibh. Pour off the grease from the
baking pan and put in a pint of stock
a^ain, a spoonful of tomatoes or tomato
catsup and J^ cup wine; let boil up till
the fish glaze in the pan is all dissolved,
thicken slightly and strain for sauce to
the fish.
983 Potatoes Frpnch-Frie '.
The common way. Cut raw potatoes
*44
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
lengthwise in strips about the size of a
little finger and fry in a kettle of lard.
As fried potatoes are generally prepared
in haste to order it should be remember-
ed that they rise and float in the fat when
done and the color they may take on in-
stantly in fat that is too hot is no sign
that they are not still raw and unfit to
serve wait till they float.
984 Roast Guima Chicken.
Young guinea fowls are more like par-
tridges than like common chickens. Roast
them in the usual way with a chicken
stuffing, and serve currant or cranberry
jelly in small saucers or chips separately.
985 Collops of Beef, a la
doine.
Mace*
Collops are small steaks. Almost any
piece of meat will do for this dish but the
pieces must be sliced thin and trimmed
to be nearly round. Flatten them with
the cleaver, salt and pepper and flour
them on both sides.
Fry a minced onion in 4 spoonfuls of
roast meat fat, and when it begins to
color lay in the collops and brown them.
Pour in a pint of water or stock, little
Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper
and let the collops continue stewing in
the sauce until tender, the grease to be
skimmed off as it rises.
The Macedoine of vegetables cannot
be made to advantage without good green
peas, either garden or French canned, as
it is the mixture of colors of vegetables
that make.- the dish a good one. Cut
pieces of canot, turnip and other vegeta-
bles in dice and boil them ; mix a cupful
of these with a cupful of green peas as
many peas as of the others altogether
season with salt and butter, or some
white sauce, dish up a spoonful of the
Macedoine as a border, and a collop
glazed with its own thick sauce in the
middle.
broth and seasonings and let dry down
until glazed. Serve cuts with Bordelaise
sauce in the dish and ornamen. with
shapes of fried bread.
987 Bordelaise Sauce.
It is brown sauce with minced garlic,
ham, shalot, claret, cayenne and lemon
juice. Take a few shreds of lean cooked
ham only enough for a flavoring and
mince and pound it fine, boil it in a pint of
brown sauce or veal gravy, or use Spanish
sauce if not too much tomatoes in it.
Add while boiling a bay leaf, two or
three cloves and a piece of mace and
pinch of cayenne. In another saucepan
put a tablespoon of minced young 9mon
and a clove of garlic crushed and minced
and a spoonful of oil, and stir over the
fire to cook. Strain the seasoned brown
sauce into it, and a cup of claret and let
boil down, skimming off the oil and scum
as it rises, and add lemon juice and a
spoonful more wine to brighten it by
causing more scum to rise. Bordelaise
means of Bordeaux, the part of France
whence claret wine comes.
988 Calf's Head Pried in Batter.
Boil a calf's head and save the liquor
for soup. Take out the bones, put the
t meat in ; press between 2 dishes. A
| calf's head generally requires one hour's
j boiling but large ones may take two
hours.
When the head is cold take half and
cut in narrow slices about finger size, salt
and pepper them, dip in thin batter same
as kromeskies or fritters and fry light-col-
ored. Serve sauce in the dish and the
meat in it but not covered.
986 Epigramma of Lamb, Bordelaise.
Divide the breasts of lamb or mutton
in strips by sawing through the bones,
cook them in a deep baking pan with
989 Cut-off Corn.
Boil roasting ears half an hour; then
shave the corn off the cob and season it
the same as canned corn with butter, salt
and milk.
90 Sauce- Piquante.
Is brown caper sauce, having capers,
COOKING fOR PROFIT.
minced young onion and small bunch of
seasoning herbs boiled in either brown
meat gravy or Spanish sauce and the
herbs taken out without straining.
991 Baked Farina Puddirg.
8 cups milk 2 quarts.
i heaped cup farina 7 ounces.
Small cup sugar 6 ounces.
Yz cup butter 4 ounces.
e; eggs (or 8 yolks.)
Boil the milk with the sugar in it, and
sprinkle in the farina dry, beating all the
while with the wire and egg whisk as if
making mush. Let the farina C9ok slow-
ly half an hour or more, then mix in the
butter and beaten eggs. Serve with
sauce. Cost : 30 cents for 5 pints or 35
to 40 orders.
992 Blueberry Shortcake.
Made the same way as strawberry
shortcake and others as at No. 397. Pick
over the blueberries, mix a cup of sugar
in two quarts, and stir them about enough
to draw juice to dissolve the sugar.
Spread on split shortcakes, made large
but thin, cut in eighths and serve with
cream.
993 -Chocolate Cup Custard.
Make same as boiled custard. No, 1^6,
and add a tablespoon of grated common
chocolate. An ounce of chocolate is
sufficient for that quantity of custard
trebled, and serves for the orders of 40
persons. The surplus chocolate that was
top much for breakfast, can sometimes be
utilized in this way. A flavoring of va-
nilla improves it.
994- Milk and Cream for Four
Thousand.
Average cost i j cents each person
each meal; giving half a pint cf milk and
a gill of cream to each person some of
it used in the cooking and ice cream,
however.
Bought milk, regular supply,
40 days, 20 qts, a day,
ooo qts @ 3 cents
Bought milk and buttermilk
irregularly 6 weeks 140 qts.
@ 3 cents
Bought cream 102 qts. @ 20
cents
$24 oo
Total,
995 Tot I Cost of Provisions for
Four thousand.
Groceries, including canned goods*
coffee, flour, meal, yeast, sugar, baking
powder $124 52
Meat, fish and poultry 140 92
Milk and cream 48 60
Butter and lard 45 08
Eggs 21 30
Potatoes 9 95
Fresh vegetables and fruit 14 oo
Total $404 37
996- To Save Twenty Dollars a
Week.
The above is a fraction about the.
ninth of a cent over 10 cents a meal
average, including the extravagance of
the i6-cent and i7~cent dinners, the 54-
cent wedding breakfast and the birth day
suppers.
That is an expense of 30 cents a day
for each person, or $2.10 a week, for liv-
ing on the fat of the land and having
choice of nearly all the desirable dishes
with milk and cream without stint and
first quality of butter^ coffee and bread.
It does not seem very high, not even when
the additional expenses are added. Yet
as an incentive to carefulness it should
be borne in mind that a saying of but
one cent a meal on 4,000 will yield 40
dollars ; it reduced by 2 cents 80 dollars
will be saved and if the meals can be
held down 3 cents, or at 7 cents a meal
there will be a saving over our figures of
120 dollars, or for 6 weeks a saving of 20
dollars a week on provisions alone. This
is why it pays to give good wages to a
cook who knows how and is willing to
keep down the expenses by avoiding
waste and profusion. The dinners can
be kept down to 10 cents and breakfasts
and suppers to 6 cents and the average of
7 cents all around will easily be main-
tained; that is 21 cents a day for each
person or about $i 50 a week. As anile
146
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
supper is the cheapest meal, breakfast a
little higher, dinner costs as much as both
the other meals put together ; where din-
ner rules at 12 cents breakfast will cost 7
and supper 5 ; where lunch is served and
a 5 or 6 o'clock dinner, the lunch is or
ought to be as cheap as the ordi nary
supoer.
Dinner.
August 17.
Soup Potage Alexandrina (7 qts 40
cents.)
Whitefish a la Cardinal (4 Ibs and trim-
mings, 65 cents.)
Potato crulls.
Cold tongue.
Potato salad do cents.)
Roast beef (2 ribs 5 Ibs net, 70 cents.)
Roast Pork a 1'Anglaise (6 Ibs and
dressing, 70 cents.)
Veal cutlets a la Maintenon (20 orders,
45 cents.)
Calves brains, sauce remoulade (6 or-
ders, 12 cents.)
m Farina fritters, lemon flavor (cold pud-
ding from yesterday, say, 10 cents.)
Fried carrots 6, beets 4, squash 10,
grated corn 20, tomatoes 10, potatoes
15 (65 cents.)
Baked cabinet pudding (meringued
2^ qts 30 orders, 35 cents.)
Pineapple cream pie (2 cans, 5 pies
open, thin, 65 cents.)
Peach sherbet (No. 235; with can
peaches and 2 qts water, etc., 65 cents.)
Queen cakes (No. 1007; 3 Ibs 36
cents.)
Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, pickles
(52 cents.)
Milk, cream 60, coffee, tea, bread,
butter 48 (i 08 cents.)
Total, $7 48; 52 persons; 14^ cents
a plate.
997 Poiage Alexandrina.
It is a vegetable puree soup spotted
with a jardiniere of mixed vegetables
cooked separately. Set the strained soup
stock over the fire with a cup of raw rice,
a quart of green peas, a large tumip,
squash, celery, kohl-rabi, leaks and
onions, all in smaller quantity than the
peas, and a piece of lean salt pork.
Cook the vegetables soft, then pass them,
the rice, and the stock together through
a strainer. It is like green peas soup.
Prepare a small quantity of carrot,
turnip and parsnip, or squash or other
vegetables cut in small dice, and boiled
separately, a spo9nful of green peas or
flageolets or haricots verts, and mix in
and season to taste.
998 Whitefish a la Cardinal.
Lay the f.sh open in a baking pan,
spread over with lobster paste made the
same as for lobster croquettes, dredge a
small amount of cracker dust on top and
bake, basting once with butter. Serve
cuts with cardinal sauce in the dish, and
some special form of potatoes.
999 Cardinal Sauce.
Anything a la cardinal may be expected
to be red or have red ornaments. Cardi-
nal red being the color of the rpbe worn
by the Cardinals on State occasions.
Make butter sauce and make it red or
at least pink with pounded red lobster
meat and shrimp passed through a seive,
add cayenne and lemon juice to this
sauce. Lobster coral the roe is used
for this purpose where it can be obtained.
1000 Potato Crulls.
There are small machines of the aprjle-
parer class, which cut potatoes in spiral
shavings called crulls or curls. Fry these
in the usual way of fried potatoes, drain,
dust with fine salt; serve one with each
plate of fish.
1001 R:ast Pork, a I'Anglaise.
Pork with sage and onions.
Take the bone out of a st^ulder or loin
of pork. Mince a large onion, throw it
in a frying pan with a spoonful of fat,
and stir it over the fire ; put in a table-
spoonful of powdered sage, some salt and
pepper. Spread the minced onion upon
the meat and put some in the cavity
where the bone was taken out; roll up,
COOKING fOR PROFIT.
147
tie with twine, roast in a pan till well done.
Take up, pour off the fat and make gravy
in the pan with water added to the sea-
soned glazed that remains, or else pour
brown sauce in and let it boil up. Stir
in a tablespoon of made mustard, and
strain the sauce.
1002- Veal Cu.let?, a la Maintencn.
Cut veal steaks from the best part,
(using the remaining pieces for stews)
very thin and about two and a half inches
wide. Make a well seasoned mince like
that for kromeskies, No. 961 ; or chicken
croquette mixture. Spread the mince
on the cutlets, roll them into a cushion
shape, place close together in a buttered
pan, pour a few spoonfuls of seasoned
broth and minced mushrooms and pars-
ley in the spaces ; sitt cracker dust on
top, and bake about half an hour.
Serve with a brown sauce poured un-
der and garnish with croutons and lemon
slices dipped in parsley.
1003 Calves' Brains in Batter, Re-
moulade.
Boil the brains, perhaps those saved
from one calf s head will be enough to
fill the bill ; and when cold cut in small
pieces and put them in a dish of vinegar
and water with salt and pepper. When
to be cooked asain drain the pieces, roll
in flour, then dip in thin fnlter batter
and drop into hot lard. Fry light-color-
ed and serve with remoulade sauce.
1004 Farina Fritters.
Make farina cake or pudding and let it
become cold, then slice it in long but
narrow pieces, dip in egg and cracker
meal and fry brown. Roll the fritters in
powdered sugar and serve without sauce.
The sugar may be flavored by grating
lemon or orange rind into it, or dropping
vanilla extract and stirring it about.
1005 Fii.d Carrots.
Cut in long strips, boil in water, drain,
salt well, shake about in a pan of flour
and fry the same as fried potatoes.
1006 Grated Cm.
Boil ears of green corn and grate off
the cob instead of cutting as for cut-off
corn. Season the grated corn with but-
ter, salt and a spoonful or two of cream,
and serve as a vegetable same as Summer
squash.
1007 -Queen Cakes.
Queen cake is the best white cake with
sultana raisins, citron and currant ; a fine
white fruit cake.
Make the best white cake, No. 622 ;
and add about a cupful of each of the
fniits. The greenest new-made citron
should be chosen as it looks better in the
cake than the dark pieces. Can be
baked in one mould, or this way :
Having made the cake mixture put it
in small muffin pans or gem pans to
bake, and frost the tops when done.
Costs a trifle more than other kinds,
chiefly because it takes more weight to
serve small cakes frosted to each order
than in slices.
1008 Baked Cabinet Pudding.
It is made with slices of cake and
citron in small slips ; custard poured over
and baked, and then frosted on top like
lemon pie.
Take slices of cake of any sort, but
sponge cake is the best, and enough to
half fill a three-quart pudding pan.
Place one layer of cake in the pan and
drop in bits of butter and shreds of
citron, another layer on that and butter
and citron again.
Mix three eggs in four cups of milk
no sugar needed and flavor with grated
lemon rind and juice. Pour it over the
cake in the pan, cover with a sheet of
buttered paper, bake about half an hour".
Frost over with four whites whipped up
firm, and four tablespoons sugar stirred
in. Serve with sweetened cream.
Costs twenty-nine cents for four pints
without frosting or sauce, but it uses up
dry slices of cake at full value. Brandy
148
SAN fRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
is added to this pudding when
wanted richer.
it is
1009-Pineapple Cream Pie.
i quart pineapple 2 cans.
*y 2 cups sugar 12 ounces.
i cup cream.
1 2 yolks of eggs.
If fresh pineapple grate it ; if cans save
the juice for sauces and mince the fruit
first and then mash it, and stir it over the
fire in a saucepan with the sugar for a few
minutes ; add the cream and the yolks
well beaten and fill into small, open
pies, these mixtures being richer than
ordinary fruits. The same mixture stir-
red over the fire after the yolks are added
makes a rich pineapple conserve for
spreading on layer cakes and filling tart-
lets. Use the whites of eggs for frosting
cabinet pudding and in the sherbet.
Cost, according to pineapple, probably
sixty cents for four pies.
age meals.
Average breakfast order :
Fruit or oatmeal 2 ounces
Beefsteak or chop 2
Ham and bacon i "
Eggs or omelet, 2 eggs 3 "
Potatoes 2
Roll, corn bread, toast 3 "
Sugar i "
Butter i "
WafHeor 2 cakes.. 2 "
1010 How Much They Eat.
To serve four thousand meals required
solid food as follows :
Flour and meal 603 pounds made
into bread and pastry was, say 800 Ibs
Oatmeal and wheat 62 pounds
made into mush was say 150 "
Rice, tapioca, starch, beans, 28
pounds made 85 "
Meat, fish and poultry 1213 "
Sugar 276 '*
Eggs 170 "
Butter and lard 247 "
Potatoes 960 pounds less */3 by
paring 640 "
Canned goods 121 average 2
pounds solid 242 "
Green vegetables and fruits,
about 170 "
Sundries in grocery bill 2 34 "
Total 4227 Ibs
That is about i pound and ^ ounce
to each person each meal. Discarding
the fractions and leaving the 227 pounds
to represent the waste left on the plates,
we have one pound of solid food as the
requirement for each person three times
a day. We are dealing now with aver-
ages and these are examples of the aver-
Total 17 ounces
And y^ pint of coffee or tea and the
same of milk or water.
Average dinner order :
Soup % plate with crackers. . . 4 ozs
Fish with potato or bread
Roast meat, thin slice
Entree, stuffed chicken or veal
Vegetables 3 kinds
Pastry or ice cream 3 *
Bread, butter, nuts, fruit 2 "
Total 22 ozs
And a pint of milk or water.
A large proportion of the people never
take soup in Summer and about'as many
do not order fish, but perhaps take more
meat dishes and pastry, and a few make
a meal principally of vegetables.
Average supper order :
Fruit or mush 2 ounces
Meat hot or cold 2 "
Roll and muffin 3 "
Baked potato 3
Butter i "
Sugar i "
Cake i "
Total 13 ounces
And a pint of coffee, tea or milk.
1011- How Much They Drink.
To serve four thousand meals required :
Milk and cream 1042 quarts
Coffee at i Ib for 2 gallons 240
Tea at i Ib for 5 gaUons. . 40
Total 1322 quarts
Which is y$ quart each person each*
meal. While some drink water exclu-
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
sively there are others who take double
shares in the milk which is one of the
most important items in the menu. The
best reason that many city people can
give for spending the Summer at a coun-
try house is the benefit to be derived
from an abundant supply of pure milk
and cream.
the vegetables in the pqnsomme. Have
some very small and thin pieces of toast
ready and drop two or three in each
plate.
Dinner.
August 18.
Soup Consomme paysanne (7 qts 42
cents.)
Fried sunfish, a la Margate (string of
30 panfish, 5 Ib 40 cents."
Potatoes stuffed.
Sliced cucumbers, potato salad, olives
(20 cents.)
Boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce (4 Ibs j
55 cents.)
Roast beef (loin 4 Ibs 52 cents.)
Chicken pot pie (5 fowls 125, with
trimmings, 140 cents.)
Small fillecs of beef a la Creole (2 Ibs
and sauce, 30 cents.)
Virginia grated corn pudding (25
cents.)
Lima beans 7, mashed turnips 4,
browned carrots 5, tomatoes 12, potatoes
15 (46 cents.)
Steamed cabinet pudding (36 orders,
50 cents.)
Sweet p9tato pie (5 pies 43 cents.)
Vanilla ice cream (3^ qts 75 cents.)
Cocoanut macaroons (same as No.
457 ; doubled, 26 cents.)
Apple, peaches, nuts, crackers, cheese
(53 cents.)
Milk, cream 66, coffee, tea, sugar,
bread, butter 53 (irg cents.)
Total, $8 13; 54 persons; 15 cents a
plate.
1013 Fried Panfish. a la Margate.
Dip small fish in flour and fry in a pan
of hot lard.
To garnish, have ready a pint of young
green peas, fry them in lard or clear but-
ter, not too hot, until they are dry but
very bright green, like parched peas in
taste. Shake them up in a little fresh
butter and serve a spoonful around the
fish. Margate is a pleasure resort and
fishing place.
1012 Consomme Paysanne.
Clear consomme \yith vegetables like
jardiniere and Brunoise but the specialty
of shred cabbage in addition. Paysanne
means peasant -county style. For the
vegetables take the smallest vegetable
spoon and scoop out carrots, squash,
turnips of two colors, or whatever may be
available in the vegetable line, size of
peas, boil the;n along with a handful or
two of cabbage shred fine as if for slaw ;
draw away the water when done, and put
1014 Potatoes Stuffed.
Select medium potatoes all of one size
and cat off the ends and bake. When
the potatoes are done scoop out the in-
side, mash and season, then put it back
into the shells, set them on end in the
baking pan and keep in the oven till
wanted. Serve with fish but on a separate
plate or dish.
1015 Chicken Pot Pie, Country style.
Cut up five fowls in joints and boil in
water barely enough to cover, and time
according to age. Old fowls make good
pies if allowed two or three hours to stew
tender. Add a seasoning of sa t pork
and onion, parsley, salt and pepper.
When done add milk to make sauce suf-
ficient, thicken till like thin sauce and
turn the stew into a pan that will go in
the oven. Make up pot pie dumpling
batter as elsewhere directed, drop spoon-
fuls all over the surface and bake twenty
minutes or more.
1016 Sma I Fillets of Beef, a la
Creole.
Small beefsteak pieces sauteed and
stewed tender and put in tomato sauce.
To saute the meat put in the frying pan
first a minced onion and piece of garlic
along with butter or oil, and thin pieces
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
of steak on top. When the onion and
steaks begin to brown, add soup stock in
small quantity and put on the lid and
keep it simmering. Fill up with tomato
sauce, or Spanish sauce with tomatoes
added, just before time to serve. Gam
ish with croutons of fried bread.
1017 Grated Corrr Pudding.
Grate cooked corn off the cob ; to a
quart add four yolks eggs, half cup of
milk, jialf cup of butter, salt and pinch
of white pepper. Put in a tin pan and
bake. Serve as a vegetable, a spoonful
in a small dish.
1018 Browned Carrots.
Steam or boil first ; put the carrots in a
pan in the oven with a spoonful of roast
meat fat and bake brown. Dredge salt.
1019 Steamed Cabinet Puddings.
Individual ; in custard cups.
Take as many slices of cake as will fill
a two-quart pan.
Y-z cup butter.
Yz cup citron shred fine.
6 cups milk.
8 eggs.
Yz cup currant jelly.
Spread the slices of cake one side with
butter the other with jelly, very thinly ;
put three or four together cut in dice,
mix the shred citron with the cake and
fill custard cups or deep muffin pans.
Mix the eggs and milk together no
sugar needed and pour over the cake,
press down with a teaspoon after it has
soaked a short time, then steam about
half an hour.
Turn the puddings out in saucers to
serve, and there ought to be either a
spoonful of whipped cream or egg mer-
ingue on top and the meringue browned
with a red hot shovel held over it.
1020 Sliced Sweet Pntat) Pie.
Steam a few sweet potatoes and let get
cold. Roll out four or five pie crusts,
slice the sweet potatoes thin and lay in
slices enough to a little more than cover
the botioms. Strew in sugar enough t:>
cover the potato slices, and then half a
dozen bits of butter size of filberts and on j
blade of mace broken up in each pie. Pour
in a quarter cup of wine, or brandy and
water and bake without a top crust slowly
and dry.
1021 Cocoanut Ma aroons.
Make as at No. 457 ; but use desiccated
ctreeanut instead of almonds. When
you have cake icing left over it can be
used to advantage in this way.
How V.uch n Serve.
It is needless to 9ffer Mrs. Tingee the
advice to dish up light as her failing is
in that direction already ; I have seen her
serve portions to her best boarders that I
should consider only the scrapings of the
dishes, and have seen her boarders, not
caring to touch the blackened scraps of
meat which she set before them for tea,
make the repast of t\vo thin slices of
baker's bread and butter and a cup of
weak tea with apparent content. I can
only account for their staying to board at
such a table by supposing that there were
other reasons stronger than the love of
eating which prevented them from ex-
ercising a free choice and going some-
where else. But in nearly all more open
and public houses the failing is in quite
the opposite way. To hear the waiters in
many places trying to cajole or buily the
cooks into dishing up two or three pounds
to each person one would think their love
for those they wait on is stronger than a
brother's, and that their sensitiveness at
the disgrace of only taking a man just
what he can eat and nothing to waste
ought to excite our most sympathetic con-
sideration. There are young proprietors
and managers, too, working for popu-
larity who make mistakes in this line It
may be good policy in some circumstances
to make a show of that sort of liberality
which gives three times as much as the
average man or woman consumes; in
such a case let it be breads and vege-
tables that are condemned to be thrown
away, and always serve the meats small.
As some have but little idea of quantities
COOKING fOR PROFIT.
in pounds and ounces, let us observe that
ten eggs are a pound and two eggs are
three ounces, and enough for nearly every
person. If we should set five dishes of
eggs each containing two fried, it would
certainly look like a profuse allowance,
yet there would only be the alloted pound.
Take away a dish and replace it with one
of meat same weight ; take away another
and give potatoes or fried oysters, fish,
or mush of its weight ; take another and
give bread, and take the fourth and bring
in its place batter cakes and there is but
the allotted pound of solids yet, although
a good and complete meal. These things
are worth considering because they are
related to the difficulty there is of living
in this world, for it is not what we eat but
what we waste that makes board so high.
A man in business ought to have tact
enough to relax a rule in economy at the
right time but some have not. I stopped
somewhere recently where they only
served one egg to a dish, with small
piece of ham. I have forgotten where it
was but as there is no unpleasant im-
pression attached to the remembrance it
must have been a good table with enough
of other things, where nobody was dis-
pleased, and certainly at our Summer
house at Unitah Lake, where there was
no it ntor restraint, about half the orders
that ^ame were for one egg only, but eggs
are staple and common and that does
not excuse the mistake of old Mr. Stick-
tite at his Union Depot Hotel at Jimson-
vale with his asparagus. When the
crowd of passengers looked over his bill
of fare and sr.w "asparagus," not printed
but written in, they looked around and
at each other as if to say, "What a lib-
eral man," and "What an excellent din-
ner we shall have." But when it was
brought in, three poor ^ little infant stalks
counted without a miss to each plate
the sji.timent changed to a dry little
lau^h and all fell to finding fault in-
discriminately \yith everything on the
board. The dinner would have been
well enough without the asparagus; it
was not expected; why did he have it?
For popularity, 01 course; to make ueo-
ple say he was liberal, but he failed
through not giving enough ; it did more
harm than good. So it was at the Hotel
Fantastic at Fantastic Beach, when they
iri.d to Live a i Lh-toned Sunday dinner
wd fillet of beef and cooked one
\.m
fillet, four pounds, for near a hundred
people. Your guests who can afford to
pay three or four dollars a day are likely
to be aware of the merits of the tender-
loin, at least these were, and everybody
ordered it, so altogether it was shaved off
in slices as thin as card board and all the
first half were thereby made as mad as
high-toned people dare to get, the other
half got none at all and I don't know which
end thought they were the worst treated,
but probably the hotel lost custom enough
t9 have paid for several fillets. If I were
giving spring chicken for breakfast for
the fixst time in the season notwithstand-
ing the two-ounce rule in all else I would
give half a pound of chicken to every
order, drop off all other kinds of meat for
that meal and give the other half pound
in the best of breads and sauce and trim-
mings to the chicken.
Dinner.
August 19.
Soup Calf s head, a la Portuguaise
(6 qts 48 cents.)
Perch, water souchet (6 Ibs gross, 48
cents.)
Potatoes a la poulette.
Boiled bacon and greens (16 cents.)
Roast beef (2 ribs short, 4 Ibs 52 cents.)
Roast lamb, mint sauce (quarter, 7 Ibs
90 cents.)
Chicken giblets saute with rice (16 or-
ders, 20 cents.)
Lobster cutlets, a la Victoria (12 or-
ders, 22 cents.)
Green corn pudding (25 cents.)
Sweet potatoes 20, string beans 3, tur-
nips 3, squash 8, tomatoes 6, potatoes 15
Accents.)
Bciled sago pudding (with sauce 12
orders, 20 cents.)
Apple pie (5 pies, 40 cents.)
Lemon ice cream (3^ qts 75 cents.)
Orange butter cake (2 cakes i l /2 Ibs 21
cents.)
Fruit, nuts, cheese, crackers, pickles
(52 cents.)
Milk, cream 60, coffee, tea, sugar,
bread, butter 50 (no cents.)
Total, $6 96; 50 persons; 14 cents a
plate.
1022 Calf's Head Soup, Portugjaise.
It is a vegetable soup with barley, and
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
calf s head cut in dice in it and a small
proportion of tomatoes.
1023 Perch Water Souchet.
A water souchet called "souchy" by
English cooks is fish steaks or fillets
stewed in a very little water with herb
seasonings and served on toast with some
of the broth over the toast.
Slice the fish if large or split and cut in
quarters if small, lay the pieces in a
bright pan with a small bunch of parsley
and green thyme and two or three green
onions ; add salt and pepper to season,
fill up with water enough just to cover the
fish and stew gently at the side of the
range about haltan hour, skimming off the
scum that rises. Take out the herbs and
onions and serve the fish from the pan on
slices of buttered toast moistened with
the fish liquor.
OT water. This makes a stiff sauce. Put
in the lobster paste and stir all together.
Season with a light grating of nutmeg,
salt, cayenne and juice 9f half a lemon.
Set it away in the refrigerator. When
cold make it in small cutlet shapes, egg
and bread them, fry light colored in a
kettle of lard. Boil four or five eggs hard
and quarter them lengthwise. Serve
tomato sauce or cardinal sauce in the
dish, the lobster cutlet in it, a quarter of
egg and a crouton of fried bread.
1024 Potatoes a la Poulette.
Parisienne potatoes in yellow sauce.
Steam or boil the potatoes without break-
ing. Make butter sauce, add to it the
yolk of an egg, salt, white pepper and
juice of half a lemon. Put the potatoes
in the sauce ; serve with fish.
1027 Green Corn Pudding.
Shaved cooked corn off the cob, or
use canned corn pounded to a half-
paste. To a quart add one cup milk,
t naif a cup butter and four eggs and salt
| and white pepper to season. Bake in a
pudding pan ; serve as a vegetable entree
in flat dishes. This can be made much
richer if wanted so, with more milk and
yolks of eggs and is a very popular dish.
1025 Chicken Giblefs Saute, with
Rice.
Cut the giblets in small pieces all of
one size and steep in cold water. Fry a
minced onion in ham or bacon fat, then
put in the giblets and fry (saute) them
brown. Put in water to nearly cover,
season with powdered herbs or Worcester-
shire sauce, salt and pepper, and let stew
with a lid on till quite tender, then skim
and thicken the sauce and serve with rice
in the dish like a curry.
1026-Lobster Cutlets, a la Victo ia.
Take half a can of lobster and pound
it to a paste. Put in a saucepan, half a
cup butter and one small cup flour and
stir them over the fire and when hot and
well mingled, add a cup of boiling broth
1028 Boiled Sago Pudding.
4 cups milk.
2 tablespoons sugar.
1 cup sago.
Butter size of an egg.
2 eggs or the yolks only.
Boil the milk with the sugar in it, shake
in the sago and keep it stirred up for a
few minutes, let cook slowly with the lid
on for about half an hour, set where it
will not burn on bricks at back of the
range. Then beat in the butter and
eggs. Serve with sauce.
1029 Work and Wages.
Counting up to the i3th of August
we only had an average of twenty -three
paying people in the house including the
owner and his family. Mrs. Tingee and
her two or three girls, and a boy in the
yard could take care of that numbe-
easily ; but it has to be according to style.
There is the Summerland House at Uni-
tah running half the time with but seven-
ty-five paying people and eighty-five
"help." At this house we are between
styles and have nine employes to the*
average twenty-three guests, and some-
COOKING fOR PROflT.
153
times have ten. There is a fraction of a
person somewhere, perhaps that is the
baby, but we will not let fractions trouble
us when tney are but small, so of the
four thousand meals consumed eleven
hnndred and thirty-four have gone to the
help and the twenty-three guests have
to pay for them as well as the two thous-
and eight hundred and ninety-eight
meals for themselves, all at ten cents a
meal, discarding the ninth of a cent frac-
tion as usual for the sake of lucidity.
Besides this co.nes the wages paid for
carrying on the work of the place to
swell the expense account to nearly
donble. As most people are sensitive on
the subject of the amount ot compensa-
tion they can command, I will not "give
away" anybody but will give the sum
total for the bunch of us. There was
one whom I have reason to suppose took
his light employment as the price of his
board during his Summer vacation, and
cost the house nothing in cash ; another,
perhaps, had his compensation contin-
gent upon the amount of the profits ; two
of the workers were hired by the year at
country wages, and the girls who did the
table waiting were at the usual house-
yard man but the proprietor or his clerk,
and as they will not clean the fish for the
cook and ths cook cannot cook it with-
out being cleaned of course there is
nothing for that cook and his second to
do and they step out. The small houses
then hunt up a woman cook, for they
are generally more pliable ; they either do
not know of those iron-clad rules of the
kitchen, or, knowing them, with the nat-
ural mulishness of woman they choose
to do the other way and go right on
earning the wages. There are said to be
a few first-class female cooks getting as
high wages as the same grade of male
cooks. Without the least intention of
saying what ought to be and only stating
facts the highest wages I have ever known
a woman to receive for cooking in a small
hotel both meat and pastry, was fifty dol-
lars a month. There are thousand of
them working in hotels and boarding-
houses at five dollars a week, whose work
is but little above common labor. There
is no doubt but there is a demand for
skillful, bill-of-fare, women cooks; such
can always secure good situations with
sufficient help at about ten dollars a week
in any part of this country, board and
girl prices. The cook for this short sea- I lodging, of course, in addition. It is on
son received as much pay as the chief | that figure I will base future estimates of
cook at the best of the two hotels at the the cost of board in country houses,
depot and a little more than the chief I In the present instance, however, I have
cook at Black's, which was a fancy price the actualities to draw from and find that
for this small house to pay, yet neither
of those chief cooks would have taken the
situation or done the work because it is
mixed, both meat and pastry, and be-
cause it is mixed other ways; tor there
.some things which look natural
are _
enough but which it is impossible for a
limited and graded, bound and restricted,
enthralled and restrained cook to do.
I don't know why the French cooks sim-
ply say it is impos-seeble for them to
do so and that is all there is of it as, for
instance, it is quite possible for fishes to
fly, I have seen them do it in the tropics,
but it is impossible for the chief cook of
hotel
the sum total of wages paid for the six
weeks was three hundred and twelve dol-
lars.
1030 Laundry Work.
The washing of table cloths and nap-
kins is an expense large enough to change
the grade of the house that cannot afford
it from the one that can ; it must be paid
for by the boarders and consequently af-
fecis the price of board. In such a house
as the one we write of, however, it is not
practicable to make a separate account
of it. Good hotel managers expect the
_ full-grown hotel to clean fish, and
equally impossible for his second cook to i money earned by the laundry to pay its
pass dirty dishes over to the next table, way and pay for the laundry work of the
however much they may be in his way on house ; probably such was the case here
his own table, it isn't his business to and it need not aftect our estimates,
gather up dishes.
These" impossibilities often cause em-
barrassment in small houses where per-
haps there is not yard-man enough to go
droun, or where, it may be, there is no
1031 Fuel and Light.
This item I could not get with perfect
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
exactness but can approximate closely.
Our John has it as part cf his yearly con-
tract that he shall in Winter provide
twenty cords of wood for the Summer
business. He claims that he had this
Spring twenty-two cords, and having but
seven cords left we must have used fifteen
cords in six weeks. That includes the
laundry and dining-room fres, and allow-
ance has to be made for the wood being
at least half of it dry and decaying bass-
wood that burns away like paper. Of
such wood in six weeks we may have
burned enough in the kitchen to be
equivalent to eight cords of sound wood
worth in the country three dollars a cord
or twenty-four dollars.
The house has consumed twenty-five
gallons of coal oil of which the dining-
room and kitchen cannot have used more
than 10, or $2 worth.
1032-lce.
Mr. Farewell has contract with one of
the neighbors, by which he hauls all the
ice he needs for the season from said
neighbor's ice-house for a compensation
of $15. All the ice used for freezing
creams has been allowed for in counting
cost ; for this portion of the season allow
for ice otherwise used $10.
1033 Total Cost of Board.
Provisions for 23 boarders 42 days $290.70
Wages of employes 6 weeks 312.00
Provisions for employes 42 days 113.67
Fuel, light, ice 36.00
Total. . . . . . $752.37
This is within a fraction of 26 cents a
meal for the paying people and is $5.45
a week each as the actual cost of first-
class board and middle-class table
vice.
ser-
1034 How Much Profit?
This house charges $10 a week for
board and lodging, transient meals are
50 cents and therefore average half profit,
while there is a margin on regular board-
ers of $4.55 a week each and a total of
$627 63 for the six weeks, or over $100
a week out of which to pay the bed rooms
and rent, the laundry and chamber work
having already been paid for in this
estimate, which includes the help em-
ployed. The latter part 9f the season is
the best; there are now in the house 40
boarders to n "help," yielding a profit
of $182 a week. If a man can have a
season of only 10 weeks at that average
and these prices he makes $1,820 out of
a small house; a sum large enough to
tempt many to try the business. The
owner of the place and his family are
properly counted as boarders in every
calculation of expense, having placed the
manager and housekeeper in position to
relieve them from any active participation.
If the manager and housekeeper were
to get married and, with this book for
their guide, were to become the landlord
and landlady of the house they would
have a still better rate of profit to expect
than the figures above, for they would
have in addition the salaries which they
now enjoy, to go a long way towards
paying their rent.
The cost of sleeping people consists
chiefly in the laundry work involved in
changing the bedding after every sleeper.
Two sheets, a pillow slip and one or two
towels are expected to be washed after
every departure, which, put out at
schedule rates would cost 35 cents for a
bed that only yielded 50 cents. For
regular boarders the changes are made
only twice or it may be once a week ex-
cept towels, and reason is found in that
for making a difference in rates for regu-
lar and transient. The cost of laundry
work has also to be reduced to the
smallest sum by having it done at home.
Dinner.
August 20.
Soup Corn and tomato (7 qts 40
cents.)
Halibut, Maryland style (4 Ibs 50, trim-
mings 20, 70 cents.)
Fried hominy.
Boiled chicken with salt pork (5 .fowls
i 25, pork 12, and sauce 140 cents.)
Roast beef (3 ribs short, 7 Ibs 90 certs.)
Lyonaise of liver with fried crusts (10
orders, 12 cents.)
Queen fritters, vanilla sauce (65 cents.)
Browned sweet potatoes 25, lima beans
6, corn 10, cabbage 6, potatoes 13 (60
COOKING POR PROFIT.
155
ents.)
English suet pudding (29 cents.)
Peach pie (5 pies, 40 cents.)
Blackberry meringue (55 cents.)
Apples, nuts, raisins, cheese, condi-
ments (54 cents.)
Milk, cream 66, coffee, tea, sugar,
bread, butter 52 (118 cents.)
Total, $7 73; 54 persons; 14^ cents a
plate.
1035 Corn and Tomato Soup.
One quart green corn cut off the cob,
one quart tomatoes chopped small, one
pint mixed vegetables cut small in five
quarts seasoned soup stock. Boil up and
season to taste.
1036 -Halibut, Maryland Style.
Halibut steak cut thin, breaded in
corn meal and fried in a small quantity of
salt pork fat not immersed but in a
frying pan and turned over to brown.
Serve a slice of the dry fried salt pork on
top of the fish and a thin slice of fried
hominy in a separate dish.
1037 Fried Hominy.
Fine hominy made into mush same as
oatmeal. Cut thin slices when cold,
divide them in diamond shapes, flour on
b9th sides and fry light colored. Serve
with fish and chicken.
1038 Boiled Chicken with Sait Po.k.
Boil 5 fowls, time according to age,
and a pound of salt pork with them, and
make a cream sauce. Serve a joint of
fowl with sauce poured over and a small
slice of streaked pork by way of garnish
1039- Ly.naise of Liver with
Crusts.
Fri d
It is liver and onions in brown sauce.
Fry a cupful or more of chopped onions,
green ones are preferable, in roast meat
fat and throw in the liver cut in small
Blocks; cover with a lid and let them
simmer together half an hour. Pour off
the grease, shake a basting spoon of flour
into the pan and stir until the liver is
coated with it; pour in soup stock or
water barely to cover; salt and pepper,
and let stew half an hour longer. Border
the dishes with minced eggs and parsley or
croutons or potato balls.
1040 Srowned Sweet Potatoes.
Boil or steam first, and then brown in
the oven; dredge salt and baste with
butter or drippings.
1041 How Many Cooks to How
Many People?
My second used to do up her hair one
day with blue ribbon and the next day
with pink, in the old happy days five or
six weeks ago when there was nobody in
the house, and singing began and ended
the day ; now the boat boy never comes
to turn the ice cream freezer; nobody
has time to help her and she wears no
more ribbons; she has soured on the
work and gets mad if I call her "sec."
All hotel hands are working under a
heavy pressure now, at the busiest time
of all; there is no getting help when
every hand is already at work that can
be found. At various times it has fallen
to me to take charge of a kitchen for a
fixed sum and pay all the other hands
myself, when the fewer I had to help me
the more money I had left. For such
times I had a rule formulated that i
cook and i helper are required for 25 peo-
ple, and i more for every 25 additional,
and at this late day I find no reason to
change the estimate. This has reference
only to the work of hotels or houses where
regular meals are prepared after the style
of these present. m There are places where
one man will go into the woods and cook
for a hundred wood-choppers or saw-mill
hands, and carry his water and split his
wood besides, but there is little in that
for a comparison. It is the commonest
possible mistake to suppose that because
there are few people there is but little
work ; it is the number of dishes made
and not the number of people that makes
256
SAN JFRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
the work. It does not take much longer
to make 2 gallons of sou p than i. If I
have 5 sauces to make it is immaterial in,
point of time whether they be 5 cups or
5 quarts. Where the number of people
does make a difference is in the duration
of meals, breakfast encroaching upon
dinner and giving no time to the one
cook to begin his preparations at the
proper season for the next meal, then
another has to take hold of the lag-
ging breakfast orders and give him his
opportunity. The time when the pay-
master reaps a temporary advantage is
when the 25 gradually swell to 40. There
is a disinclination to take on another
cook or helper, the 2 are in harness and
are making the work go on, in part from
the force of habit, but it is on a strain
and by neglecting the small niceties, by
failing to clean up, and by letting things'go
withount the finishing strokes. It will be
found a .good rule to count by, that 2
skilled cooks and a pan-washer helper
are required to cook for 50.
1042 Puree a la Crecy, or Carrot
Soup.
Crecy, an old French battlefield, after-
wards turned into market gardens be-
came noted again for the production of
the carrot, a vegetable more highly val-
ued bef9re the introduction o^the beet
than it is now, but still one of the main-
stays of the French cook. So persistently
do these old names cling that but recently
a cook contributing a receipt to a New
York journal, told his readers to take
some Crecy carrots and do thus and so.
It is to be hoped they got some.
To make the soup, take soup stock and
boil carrots and corned beef in it and a
few other soup vegetables for seasoning.
Take out the meat and pass the carrots
alon? with the stock through a seive.
Skim well, add a small amount of flour
or starch thickening to keep the puree
(pulp) from settling to the bottom ; sea-
son and serve like bean soup, with crusts
in the plate.
Dinner.
August 21.
Soup Puree a la Crecy (6 qts 36 cents.)
Salt mackerel, mustard sauce (4 fish
and sauce, 24 cents.)
Potatoes a naturel.
Chicken, a )a Bechamel (5 fowls and
sauce, 130 cents.)
Roast beef (rib ends 5 Ibs 45 cents.)
Stuffed shoulder mutton (4 Ibs 50
cents.)
Curry of veal, a la Calcutta do orders,
i Ib and trimmings, 23 cents.)
Macaroni, a la Creole (20 orders, 20
cents.)
Fried egg plant 15, turnips 4, corn 10,
squash 8, potatoes 12 (40 cents.)
Astor House pudding (No. 594
doubled; 24 orders, 28 cents.)
Covered lemon pie (5 large, thin, 35
cents.)
Frozen buttermilk (5 qts frozen, 25
cents.)
Fruit cake, jelly cake (2 Ibs 20 cents.)
Peaches, nuts, cheese, crackers, condi-
ments (50 cents.)
Milk, cream 50, coffee, tea, sugar,
butter, bread 48 (98 cents.)
Total, $6 3^; 49 persons; 13 cents a
plate.
1043 Salt Mackerel Boiled.
There is as much difference between
mackerel boiled soft and boiled hard as
between eggs similarly cooked. If you
would have mackerel tender, as well as
of good color, put it on to cook in cold
water and take it off as soon as it begins
to boil. It is best if it can be cooked to
order, or only as warned, as it becomes
hard and curls out of shape with stand-
ing long in the water. Mackerel looks
best if cut across, not lengthwise, each
fish making three portions. Dish the
skin side up and a spoonful of melted
butter over it.
' Mackerel put in water to freshen will
hardly keep cweet twelve hours unless ice
water be used or the vessel set in the
refrigerator. It should remain in water
at least twenty-four hours, and be changed
once or twice. After that if any are
wanted to broil, they should be hung up
to dry one meal ahead.
1044 Salt Mackerel Broiled.
Divide the fish lengthwise, and if of
COOKING FOR PROFIT.
157
the largest size, again into quarters.
Broil over clear coals, or toast before the
fire in the hinged wire broiler, browning
the inside first. Serve the brown skin
side uppermost, with a spoonful of melted
butter poured over. It should cook in
five minutes.
1045 Mustard Sauce.
Make butter sauce, and mix with ti
made mustard enough to give it a pale
yellow color, then let boil up again for a
moment to thicken, but not to separate
the butter.
1046 Potatoes, au Naturel.
Means that they are plain. New pota-
toes with the skins pn, should be steamed
and served in a dish separate from the
fish.
1047 Chicken, a la Bechamel.
Chickens with cream sauce. Boil the
fowls in salted water or broth, and take
some of the broth, strain through a nap-
kin, boil, and thicken with flour, then
beat in butter and add cream or rich
milk and strain again.
1048-Gurry rf Veal, a la Calcutta.
The specialty of the style is the putting
grated cocoanut in the stew; and yet,
perhaps, there will be some to say that
it is no specialty, but common to all cur-
ries if properly made. There is an old
sea steward settled down in that haven of
rest for old salts, Nipantuck Island, who
will talk by the hour about the East
Indies and, as he expresses it, there they
curry everything and put cocoanut and
cocoanut milk in everything.
Pour a little oil or butter into a saucepan,
throw in a minced onion, cut any pieces
of veal you may have that will not make
roast or cutlets into small pLces of one
size, put them in with the onion, cover
with a lid and let stew in that way with-
out water until the meat begins to brown.
To a pound of meat allow about a tea-
spoonful of curry powder ; shake it about
in the stew, then put in water to barely
coyer and cook half an hour longer.
Skim off the grease from one side. Add
a heaping tablespoon of grated cocoanut,
some salt and pepper, cook a few min-
utes. Serve with plain rice at one end
of the dish or as a bordei.
1049 Macaroni, a la Creole.
Cook y<2, pound of macaroni, cat it in
short pieces, fry a little garlic and onion
in oil, throw in a minced red pepper, add
a pint of tomato sauce, put in the cooked
macaroni and shake up.
1050 Egg Plant Breaded and Fried.
See directions at No. 125. Besides
that egg-plant can be breaded in egg and
cracker dust, and fried by immersion.
It is not absolutely necessary to parboil
the vegetable, and in places where they
are short of help they fry it without that
preparation.
1051 Frozen Buttermilk.
A grateful change from ice cream in
hot weather. Put buttermilk in the
freezer \vithout any addition and freeze
with rapid turning to make it foamy, but
it should not be frozen solid.
I have had to add sugar before freezing
in some places to suit peculiar people,
but think it spoils the buttermilk. It is
a matter of taste, however.
1052 Boarding the Employes.
In all the preceding estimates and in
all the bills of fare the provisions for the
help have been counted the same as for
the guests and meals charged at the same
cost, but the same has not been done in
regard to table service and other expemes.
This seems the sound way to count the
expense : when the bills are to be paid to
the butcher and grocer it makes no sort
of difference bv whom the goods have
been consumed. It is but a self-decep-
tion for any keeper or manager of a resort
hotel to suppose that his help is costing
less speaking of the yross cost of i.ro-
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
visions than his paying guests by the
meal or in the aggregate. They eat the
then we will fry a few eggs. After dinner
the cook takes a little survey and puts
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same food with the difference that they away the solid meats either for slicing for
i . * f , i I fMn-\T-\o** /"NT* TO w\o cfinrr f^c^nr/^c r h^ /^o t"> T\ &rt
do not have such a free choice as the
guests. They eat what is left over, but
not the refuse, only that which the cooks
prepare in excess of the demands of the
aimng room. Of the three classes con-
stituting the community of a large hotel
the officers eating at a separate table in a
separate dining room are likely to fare
the worst as, if the biil of fare allotted
them be not satisfactory they have not the
opportunities for something supplemen-
tary which others below them enjoy. In
a large hotel the early breakfast for the
help consists in part of the surplus left
from the last nights dinner with enough
of fried fresh meat and boiled potatoes
to make up the needed quantity; their
dinner will consist in part of stews and
broiled meats and fish from the dining
room breakfast increased as before by
broiled or roast second-rate cuts of meat
and soup and a cheap pudding. Allow
that such a house is well-filled with guests
and there is little left; or that the cook is
one of the few that can estimate closely
how much to cook and the board of the
help may cost somewhat less than that of
the guests, still the chances are against it,
while in a small house the opportunities
are such that there is no room for the
supposition of a difference unless it be in
the helps' favor.
In the house of which I write, I
have made use of the help to make
a clean sweep of every meal, other-
wise there must have been more to throw
away and the estimates could not have
been so close nor the meals at once so
profuse and so cheap. For here as in all
small houses the help, what few there
are, take their meals immediately after
the guests. There is no re-warming pro-
visions from a previous meal, it would be
unless, not one of them would even look
at them, but if I have broiled 12 beef-
steaks and only 8 have been taken in,
the help will take the 4. If the guests
have taken to corn bread this meal and
left the rolls the help will eat rolls; if the
guests have taken a notion all to eat
baked potatoes then the help will take
the fried potatoes that are left or the
oatmeal or batter cakes and if, as is
more likely than all there is nothing
whatever left and we are glad t^ see k sp,
supper or re-roasting ; reserves the canned
corn and peas, the tapioca pudding if
enough for fritters next day, the joints of
chicken that will make patties or cro-
quettes or soup, but leaves on the board
the mutton, a ia Bretonne, the baked
beans, the stuffed shoulder of mutton,
the haricot, the cpllops of beef -with
tomatoes, the stews in general, the maca-
roni a la Creole, whatever of the sort
may unfortunately have been too much,
or if none of these, the help will make a
good dinner of soup and fish and clean
up the pans. With this in view all our
dinners are planned with a cheap meat
dish.
The guests will eat the Spring lamb
and chicken clean and ask at supper if
there is any lett cold, then the help come
in for the beef a la mode Pariseinne, and
live high too. If they do not have first
choice then they get even between meals
by drinking iced milk while the guests
3,re obliged to get along with iced water.
Of course we are all honest; would i;ot
take a feather's weight out of the house,
will not even eat a meal after we are paid
off; yet when we are handling the best
there is in the house it is but a short dis-
tance irom one's hand to one's mouth ;
and does not the cook himself know
where the tenderloin steaks are to be
found? Look ret his rotund form.
1053 Boarding Children
Growing boys and girls consume at
least as much food as adults, perhaps
more. If there is any difference to be
made in regard to children it must be for
those of too tender age to come to table.
Hotels generally charge full price for
children occupying seats at the first
table, that is, children who take the nap-
kins, the clean silver, goblets of ice water,
the newly filled cruets, the dishes of
olives and sardines, the waiter's time at
the busy hour ; they are charged for all
the extras that make meals expensive; as
for the amount of food they consume it
is but of secondary importance, but it is
the same as the adults require. It is
often the case that the baskets of fruit and
nuts, cakes and candies are untouched
during the whole dinner until the chil-
COOKING fOR PROFIT.
drcn come; the grown pepple have
enough without, but the children will
make a clean sweep and carry off what
they cannot eat ; then it is the children
who make the heaviest drafts upon the
cans of milk and cream and that, too,
between meals. It is good for them and
all right, but it ought to' be counted at
full price if you are going into the busi-
ness of boarding children on a first-class
scale.
Dinner
AugUSt 22.
Soup Chicken gumbo d chicken 25,
okra 25, 7 qts 70 cents.)
Red snapper, a la Palatka (7 Ibs and
trimmings, 100 cents.)
Sweet potatoes fried (12 cents.)
Bacon and cabbage do cents.)
Roast beef (flank 4 Ibs 48 cents.)
Roast chicken, puree de marrons (8
chickens and trimmings, 220 cents.)
Beef and green peas, a la Turgee (2 Ibs
meat 22, peas 10, 32 cents.)
Baked beans and pork (20 cents.)
Green corn 20, tomatoes 8, squash 6,
beets 4, potatoes 10 (48 cents.)
Spanish puff fritters (No. 155 trebled;
sugared, 40 orders, 45 cents.)
Baked apple dumplings (30 orders, 50
cents.)
Frozen buttermilk 6 qts frozen, 30
cents.)
Arabian cake (2*4 Ibs 25 cents.)
Apples, peaches (25 cents.)
Nuts, raisins, cheese, crackers, pickles,
condiments (56 cents.)
Milk 36, cream 30, butter 20, bread 12,
coffee, tea, sugar 20 (118 cents.)
Total, $9 09; 56 persons; i6
plate.
mucilaginous a nature to meet with much
favor at the North. It can be bought in
cans like everything else.
Take one fowl, which you can chop
nto 18 pieces, and an equal amount of
veal cut in similar pieces and fry (saute)
them in the usual Creole way with oil or
clear butter, with a large minced onion
and a leak and piece of carrot and turnip
cut m dice, and if you use green okra
from the garden slice the pods crosswise
and let simmer with the meat. When the
contents of the saucepan begin to brown
add 4 or 5 quarts of soup stock.
If canned okra be used, fry the chicken
and veal first then put in i or 2 cans and
fill up with stock ; the okra thickens the
soup and the amount to be used is
optional.
Tie up bouquet of herb, thyme, pars-
ley, one bay leaf and 6 or 8 cloves and
drop it in the soup, also a pod of red
pepper minced, and salt sufficient. Boil
until the pieces of chicken are tender,
take out the bunch of herbs; have a
small saucepan of boiled rice reader at
hand, serve a spopnful of rice in each
plate and fill up with soup.
cents a
1054 Chicken Gumbo Soup.
The several sorts of gumbo soup are
all named so from being made with okra
pods, called gumbo in the South, and
used both green and in a dried and pow-
dered state called gumbo file. This
green powder, a few bay leaves and
bundles of sassafras root are offered for
sale by Indians in the New Orleans mar-
kets and seems to constitute their entire
stock in trade. Okra or gumbo, is of too
1055 Red Snapper, a la Palatka
First make a sauce of the head of the
fish, then bake the sliced fish in it. It is
' a court-bouillon without wine. Split the
head, put it to boil in 3 or 4 pints of
water with a few green onions cut small
and a pod of red pepper. When it has
boiled a short time stir it about until it
falls to pieces, making the liquor thick
like soup. Lay the slices in a buttered
pan strewed with finely minced shalots,
dredge salt, scatter chopped parsley
over; strain the fish sauce into the pan,
bake until it is half evaporated and serve
the remainder as sauce with each slice.
1056 Fried Sweet Potatoes.
They can be fried raw, or Steamed and
then sliced raw and fried; are good either
way if carefully cooked in lard not too
hot, but a little better if cooked be-
fore frying. Cut them in slices an eighth
of an inch thick and full size of the
potato. Serve with fish or as a vegetable.
sVUH*~
ito
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
1057 Roast Chicken, Puree de Mar-
rons.
The words mean chicken stufied with
chestnuts mashed chestnuts the dish
in reality is chicken stuffed with sweet
potatoes. Good sweet potatoes are very
much like chestnuts in taste. Mash and
season well with butter and salt and
pepper, stuff the fowls not too solid and
roast as usual.
1058 Beef
and Green
Turque.
Peas, a la
Take any small pieces of beef such' as
the ends of porter-house steaks, or the
shoulder cap, cut all to one size, put
them in a saucepan with fat or butter
enough to grease the bottom, and a chop- 1 nave everytmng com to Degm witn;
ped onion, sprig of thyme and parsley ; P ut the e g s and sugar together in a deep
let it fry a while without any water and bow, 1 or round-bottomed pan or candy
stir frequently.
cake fine sponge cake made by beating
the eggs and sugar together without
separating the whites and yolks, the way
alluded to at Nos. 279 and 280 and the
note. These Turks beat the mixture
about an hour, but in rather a sleepy sort
of way and with frequent relays, for Ali,
Arabi and Raphael all had to come in
turn and work till their oriental arms gave
out. Some who read this will be in-
terested in the fact that this notable cook
from Constantinople made them always
stir the cake one way just like American
home folks do. This is the cake :
i pound ,fine granulated sugar (light
weight.)
12 eggs.
3 pound of starch (or flour if for Savoy
cake.)
Vanilla to flavor.
Have everything cold to begin with ;
any
When it begins to color,
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add water to barely cover and a pint of
green peas to every pound of meat,
btew together until the meat is tender ;
season with salt and pepper. It will be
sufficiently thickened and will be light-
brown. Serve in flat dishes and garnish
v with fried crusts cut in crescents, dipped
in bright gravy and sprinkled with minced
yolk of eggs.
1059 Arabian Cake Biscoscha.
There are several grades and varieties
of sponge cake to be found in this book,
all good in their place, yet the one I
used to regard the chief and is so put
forward in the American Pastry Cook had
nearly been set aside here because the
boys regard it as laborious and some-
times fail with it in warm weather, until
on a recent occasion I found at an "Ori-
ental Cafe" the Turks who kept the in-
stitution were making a specialty of
"Arabian cake," selling cons : derable
quantities to the curious passers-by and
kept a Turkish woman cook (youn^, and
a real Zuleika, by the way) busy all day
making and baking it. As I carry with
me the "Open Sesame!" to all the
kitchens in the land, I proceeded to in-
vestigate and found it to be neither more
nor less except the substitution of starch
for flour, than our old favorite Savoy
kettle, and beat vigorously with a bunch
of wire half an hour by the clock.
It should by that time be twice or thrice
the volume it was at the beginning. Add
flavoring and the flour or starch. Do
not beat after that is in but stir around
only enough to fairly mix it out of sight.
Bake in a deep turban-shaped mold,
slightly oiled before the cake is put in.
A large cake of this sort will gen-
erally be done in half an hour. Our
Turkish woman carried a long straw in
her eai just where a bookkeeper carries
his pen to try her cakes with.
1060 Meals to: Ten or Fifteen Cents.
If it be true, as our figures seem to
prove, that a pound of food and a pint
of drink are the average requirements for a
full meal, then if an eating-house keeper
offering meals for 10 cents could induce
his customers to take a pound of bread,
3 cents, a pound of potatoes, i cent, a
pound of mush, i cent and 3 cups of
milk, 3 cents, for the three meals of one
day his outlay would be 8 cents and his
profit 22 cents; whereas if he should give
a pound of meat, 10 cents, a pound of
pie, 10 cents and a pound of syrup, but-
er and batter cakes on one plate 10
cents, for the three meals of one day, he
would have furnished no more than the
average man could eat, would not have
COOKING fOR PROFIT.
r6r
given a full meal and yet would have
nothing left for profit. It is by striking a
medium between these and not neces-
sarily by using stuff that is unfit to eat
that some men manage in every large
city to sell meals for 10 cents and make
a profit. "Steak, bread, butter and
potatoes, 10 cents," is what the sign
boards announce. A pound of 8-cent
meat, a pound of potatoes, i cent, a
pound of bread, 3 cents 3 pounds for
the three meals of one day costing 12
cents out of 30 add 3 pats of butter ^
ounce each the regular restaurant size
3 c,:nts more, and the eating-house
keeper gives 15 cents and receives 30
cents, serves 300 meals a day and has 15
dollars a day margin out of which to pay
his help, rent and wear and tear, etc.,
could afford even to add 3 cups of coffee
to his sign-board inducements, while
those who offer meals at 15 cents might
afford to set a sumptuous table. There
are hundreds of such places in operation :
we are only seeking to know how they
can do as they do. San Francisco, years
ago, was talked about the world over as
much on account of her having houses
where a good meal could be obtained for
15 cents as for being the chief city of the
Golden State.
1061 Country Board at Five Dollars.
It was mentipned incidentally at the
beginning of this book that Mrs. Tingee
keeps boarders at $3.50 a week, having
lately had to make a reduction from her
former price of $4, to meet the demands
of her boarders and the stringency of the
times. Let us see how she does it. Our
emals in this small country house up to
the i2th of August, counting the small
family meals at 5 or 6 cents each person
and the more profuse hotel dinners at
from 10 to 1 6 cents, averaged 10 cents
each meal each person. Suppose Mrs.
Tingee allows her meals to cost 10 cents,
either through allowing some things to go
to waste, or through want of skill to make
good dishes out of cheap materials, or
through depending too much on meat
and butter to make up her table, then
her boarders cost her $2.10 a week each
and she has $1.40 each as a margin to
meet her other expenses and pay herself;
if she has 20 day boarders that leaves her
$28 a week.
She will dp most of the cooking herself;
she has 2 girls, and a boy in the yard,
whose wages average $2 a week each, and
their meals $2 a week more, making $12,
leaving $16 a week for Mrs. Tingee, but
out of that she must pay about $4 for fuel,
light, ice and incidentals, and she has for
herself about $50 a month.
Now, she has house rent to pay and the
house she occupies costs her $30 a month
but it does not properly come within OUT
scope, as her business is in taking
day boarders and letting out rooms
enough to pay the rent of the whole
house. The only time that she needs
and seeks a sympathizing ear is when a
young couple or two gentlemen who
have been paying a good price for her two
best rooms have moved out and left her in
fear of having little or no rent coming in.
So that, if she sets as good a table as we
have been setting here and keeps her 20
boarders she still is able to appear very
respectably and send her two children to
a good school. In reality, however, Mrs.
Tingee does not set any such table. If
she would she could set such meals as
we have shown in the divisions of this
book before the first birthday supper at
an average cost of about 7 cents a plate,
and, giving a sufficiency, could keep
her full quota of 20 boarders. There is a
defect in her method, however, which
never allows her full success or a full
house, for while a pound of food and a
pint of drink are required on an average
to make a full meal, Mrs. Tingee devotes
her ingenuities to make her boarders get
along with half a pound, and regards
three-quarters as a piece of extravagance
only to be indulged in on Sundays. In
consequence her boarders, not being well
fed, piece out by buy ing apples, peanuts,
candy, cakes and beer, and find when
they count up at the end of the week that
this sort of desultory boarding around has
cost them more than it would to board at
a good hotel, and all who are not bound
in some way, leave her and she has but
10 whom she can depend on to stay and
a transient customer now and then. She
does not allow the provisions for these to
cost more than 5 cents a meal, 15 cents a
day; $1.05 a week, or $10.50 a week
total, for which at $3.50 each she re-
ceives $35. This leaves her $24.50 in-
stead of $28 as under the other calcula-
tion and as tne work is less it is a greater
proportionate pront. The great diffei-
SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETTE'S
ence in the two methods, is that the latter
will not stand the test of competition.
The landlord and his wife are boarding
out the rent; the retail merchant and
wife board there because Mrs. Tingee
trades with him; the photographer has
his gallery next door and his wife finds
better employment retouching pictures
for him than she would keeping house,so
they board there, otherwise Mrs. Tingee
would have no boarders at all, poor wo-
man.
It chanced some two or three years ago,
I picked up a brief editorial article in an
unexpected quarter, considering the argu-
ment it contained, for it was the New
York Hotel Reporter, that said the great
want of the people of moderate means of
New York and all large cities is good
country board for the Summer months at
about $5 a week that is for board and
lodging. Well, it would seem there are
plenty of places offering board at that
price ; it may be they do not meet the re-
quirements of the city customers. In a
railroad guide book I read of one lake n
the State of New York, where there are 8
or 10 hotels but 400 boarding houses ; no
doubt but there are all grades and prices
but still something may be wanting.
Nearly all the well-to-do inhabitants of
New Orleans and other southern cities
leave their homes every Summer for a
sojourn at some country place or at the
sea side. At Biloxi, Pass Christian, South
Pass, there are houses which rent for from
$200 to $300 or $350 for the Summer sea-
son to be kept as boarding houses and re-
main closed all the rest of the year. In
the New Orleans papers I see an adver-
tisement which reads well, it is of a Sum-
mer boarding house at Gobegic Ferry, on
the Topmabee, branch of the Tchoupi-
toulas river, easy to find because ex-
actly 90 miles from New Orleans, and
700 feet above sea level, where there is
plenty of milk, eggs, butter and fruit and
vegetables, where board is offered at $5
a week, or $20 a month, and children
under 12 are taken at half price.
According to the figures that we have
devoted to Mrs. Tingee, allowing from 7
to 10 cents a meal for provisions and 50
cents each person as the expense of bed :
20 boarders at $5 would pay $ 100 a week
the provisions mostly home-raised may be
set down at Si.co or $30 for the whole,
which with the $10 cost of lodging them
I is $40 a week for 20 boarders and $60 re-
j mains. Allow $10 for drawback on chil-
j dren and monthly board and there is still
$50 a week or nearly $200 a month for
the family that keeps the house and does
nearly all the work. There will be tran-
sient meals enough sold to pay the rent,
or boats or carriages let out, or cigars
sold or some little side interest to keep
the main profit of the house intact. By
reducing the cost of meals 2 or 3 cents at
this xo-dollar house of ours we could
make a profit at $5 even here, where our
meats and fish have to be expressed and
our fruits and vegetables are nearly all
canned goods.
Dinner.
August 23.
Soup Vermicelli (7 qts 35 cents.)
Catfish stewed with tomatoes (5 Ibs net,
steaks 60 with sauce, 68 cents.)
Potatoes Hollandaise.
Boiled smoked tongue (25 cents.)
Roast beef (3 ribs short, 6 Ibs 80 cents.)
Civet of rabbit, a la Chasseur (8 rabbits
100, with trimmings, 125 cents.)
Chicken giblets, a la Parmentier (20
orders, 20 cents.)
Charlotte of apples, Francaise (36 or-
ders, 40 cents.)
Baked sweet potatoes 20, squash 8,
stewed onions 6, rice 6, beets 5, potatoes
8 (53 cents,)
Indian fruit pudding (No. 161 doubled,
24 orders, 36 cents.)
Blanc mange with cream (2 qts and
cream, 45 cents.)
Telly roll, white caketeH Ibs 26cents.)
Nuts, raisins, apples, cheese, crackers,
pickles (55 cents.)
Milk, cream 60, butter, bread, coffee,
tea, sugar 5 2 (112 cents.)
Total, $7 20; 55 parsons; 13 cents
plate.
1062 Verm ce;ii Soup.
For general directions about making
soup stock, or bouillon, as the French
call it, read No. ir5, the quantities to
be according to the number of people.
The stock having been strained into a 
