ism
m
BERKELEY
LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY Of
CALIFORNIA
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
AGRICULTURE
BEQUEST
OF
ANITA D. S. BLAKE
^r->
THE
COOKING MANUAL
OF
PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR ECONOMICAL
EVERY-DAY COOKERY.
BY
JULIET CORSON.
SUPERINTENDENT OF THE NEW YORK COOKING SCHOOL.
"How well can we live, if we are moderately poor f"
NEW YORK:
DODD, MEAD & COMPANY,
751 BROADWAY.
IS/;.
COPYRIGHT
BY JULIET CORSON
1877.
AGRiOiiTURF
GIFT
/ A /'
AGRIC.
LIBRARY
PREFACE.
THIS book is intended for the use of those house-
keepers and cooks who wish to know how to make
the most wholesome and palatable dishes at the least
possible cost. In cookery this fact should be re-
membered above all others ; A GOOD COOK NEVER
WASTES. It is her pride to make the most of every-
thing in the shape of food entrusted to her care ; and
her pleasure to serve it in the most appetizing form.
In no other way can she prove her excellence ; for
poor cooks are always wasteful and extravagant.
Housekeepers can safely make this book a guide
for those of their cooks who are willing to learn new
and good methods of cooking familiar foods. Lest
it should be said that undue preference is given to
foreign ways of cooking, the author begs her readers
to remember how much of the success of any dish
depends upon its taste ; if it is well-flavored, and
palatably seasoned, the eaters of it do not closely
criticise its component parts. It is just there that
benefit is derived from European culinary skill ; the
judicious use of a few inexpensive sweet herbs, and
savory sauces, will raise a side dish, made from the
cheapest cut of meat, in gustatory excellence far
r 154
PREFACE.
above a badly cooked porterhouse steak, or a large
but poorly flavored roast. Because the art of utiliz-
ing every part of food is eminently French, the NEW
YORK COOKING SCHOOL plan has been to adapt for-
eign thrift to home kitchen use. To provide enough
at each meal ; to cook and serve it so as to invite
appetite ; to make a handsome and agreeable dish
out of the materials which the average cook would
give away at the door, or throw among the garbage ;
all are accomplishments that our American wives and
daughters will be glad to learn from their European
sisters.
The day has passed for regarding cooking as a
menial and vulgar labor ; and those who give some
thought to their daily food usually gain in vigor and
cheerfulness. It is a truism that food is concen-
trated force. The manipulation of a motive power
capable of invigorating both body and mind, is an
occupation worthy to employ intelligence and skill.
In countries where the people depend upon meagre
supplies this art is brought to perfection. The
pot-au-feu of France and Switzerland, the olla pod-
rida of Spain, the borsch of Poland, the tschi of
Russia, the macaroni of Italy, the crowdie of Scotland,
all are practical examples of this fact. In no coun-
try in the world is there such an abundance of food
as in America ; all the needful ingredients for mak-
ing these national dishes, or their equivalents, can
be found in the markets of our cities, and most of
them are the products of this country. This being
true, there is no reason why American cookery
PREFACE.
should be so comparatively limited why the ques-
tion of *' what shall we have for dinner to-day ? "
should be the despair of the inexperienced house-
keeper. If in no other land is there such profusion
of food, certainly in none is so much wasted from
sheer ignorance, and spoiled by bad cooking. In
Europe provinces would live upon what towns waste
here. The very herbs of the field in the hands of a
skilful cook can be transformed into palatable and
nutritious viands. The plainest and cheapest ma-
terials can be prepared for the table in an appetizing
and satisfactory form. Let our readers test this fact
by cooking according to the receipt any dish named
in the chapter upon "CHEAP DISHES WITHOUT
MEAT," and the author will stake her culinary
reputation that the food so prepared will be both
palatable and nourishing.
Many persons regard the practice of serving sev-
eral dishes at a meal as troublesome and expensive.
The first objection may hold good ; but the best
results in any direction are never gained without
trouble. The second is wholly untenable ; soup,
fish, vegetables, and bread, are all less costly than
heavy joints of meat ; if hunger can be partly satis-
fied on them, and it is true that a thick slice of bread
and a bowl of soup will content the hungriest
stomach, less meat will be required, and consequently
less expense incurred. This is an excellent reason
why the housewife should not spend the bulk of her
market money on a large roast of beef, or a leg of
mutton, but should rather divide the amount among
PREFACE.
the different dishes of soup, fish, a ragout, or stew
of some cheap cut of meat, and a few vegetables ;
and now and then indulge in a plain pudding, or a
little fruit for dessert. With judicious marketing
and proper cooking, the food of our well-to-do
classes might be made far better than two-thirds of
that now served on the tables of the wealthy ; and
the poor might learn that their scrag-end of mutton
would furnish them with at least three dishes. To
forward in some measure this result, the present col-
lection of COOKING SCHOOL receipts is offered to the
public, with the assurance that every one given has
been tested by the author, and is complete in every
detail, as economical as care and use can make it,
and plain enough for ordinary households. The
quantities mentioned in the various receipts are cal-
culated to serve for a family of eight persons, when
two or more dishes constitute a dinner, with the
addition of soup ; of course when only one dish is
to form the meal, with bread and vegetables, a larger
quantity must be allowed.
Communications from all parts of the country
state that the principles of kitchen economy as taught
in the NEW YORK COOKING SCHOOL and widely dis-
seminated by the press, have been put into practice
in many families, to the great improvement of health
and temper; for an illy fed man can neither be
strong nor cheerful ; the hours spent at table should
be full of harmony and content, or the meal will fail
to meet the requirements of the body. The question
of the hour is " How well can we live, if we are mod-
PREFACE.
erately poor ? " The author of THE COOKING
SCHOOL MANUAL is doing her best to answer it sat-
isfactorily. She has worked earnestly in a compara-
tively new field of labor, and she prays that strong
hands may unite in the effort to show how excellent
a thing it is to make the best and most of the bounti-
ful supply our country's teeming bosom bears at
every harvest tide.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
GENERAL RULES FOR MARKETING.
PAGE
Meats Poultry Game Fish Vegetables Fruit Sweet
Herbs 15
CHAPTER II.
SOUP.
General Stock Flavoring, thickening, and coloring Soups
Consomme Vermicelli and Macaroni Soup Rice
and Tomato Soup Scotch Broth without Meat
Scotch Broth with Meat Spinach Soup Sorrel Soup
Pea Soup Lentil Soup . . 22
CHAPTER III.
FISH.
Baked Blackfish Broiled Shad with Maitre c? hotel But-
ter Fried Smelts Fillet of Sole au gratin Fish
Chowder, St. James style Club House Fish Cakes-
Sardine Sandwiches Warmed up Boiled Fish, with
Dutch Sauce 31
10 CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
RELISHES.
PAGE
Anchoviss Sardines Pickled Herrings Scalloped Oys-
tersWelsh Rarebit Golden Buck Mock Crab-
English Bread and Butter Epicurean Butter 37
CHAPTER V.
SIDE DISHES OR ENTREES.
Beef Steak, with Parisian Potatoes Plain Rump Steak
Portuguese Beef Bubble and Squeak Stewed Kid-
neys Haricot or Stew of Mutton Epigramme of
Lamb with Piquante Sauce Spanish Sauce Krom-
eskys with Spanish Sauce Sheep's Tongues with
Spinach Broiled Sheep's Kidneys Liver Rolls
Fried Brains with Tomato Sauce Calf's Liver
larded Blanquette of Veal Stuffed Breast of Veal
Pork Cutlets with Robert Sauce Pork Chops with
Curry Broiled Pigs' Feet English Pork Pie-
Fried Chicken, Spanish Style Chicken Fricassee
Grilled Fowl Minced Chicken with Macaroni
Broiled Pigeons Salmi of Duck Civet of Hare Jug-
ged Hare Stuffed Eggs How to make Omelettes
Plain Omelette Omelette with fine Herbs Omelette
with Ham Omelette with Oysters Omelette with
Mushrooms Spanish Omelette Oriental Omelette
Omelette with Preserves How to cook Macaroni
Macaroni with Bechamel Sauce Macaroni Milan-
CONTENTS. ii
aise Style Macaroni with Tomato Sauce Timbale
of Macaroni, with Vanilla Cream Sauce 41
CHAPTER VI.
LARGE ROASTS.
Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding Roast Loin of Veal
stuffed Roast Lamb with Mint Sauce Roast Pork
with Apple Sauce Roast Turkey with Cranberry
Sauce Roast Chicken with Duchesse Potatoes
Roast Duck with Watercresses Roast Goose with
Onion Sauce Roast Wild Duck 'Roast Partridge
with Bread Sauce 68
CHAPTER VII.
BOILED MEATS.
Leg of Mutton with Caper Sauce Boiled Ham with Ma-
deira Sauce A la mode Beef Boiled Fowl with
Oyster Sauce 78
CHAPTER VIII.
SALADS AND SALAD SAUCES.
Spring Salad Watercress Salad Mint Salad Cauli-
flower Salad Dandelion Salad Asparagus Salad
Shad-roe Salad Green Pea Salad Orange Salad
Spinach Salad Tomato Salad Nasturtium Salad
Cream Dressing English Salad Sauce Remolade
12 CONTENTS.
PACK
Sweet Sauce Piquante Salad Sauce Green
Remolade Oil Sauce Ravigote Sauce Egg Dress-
ing Anchovy Salad Sauce Swiss Dressing Spring
Dressing Mayonnaise Hot Salad Sauce Romaine
Salad Dressing 83
CHAPTER IX.
VEGETABLES.
Asparagus with Melted Butter Green Peas String
Beans Baked Beets Brussels Sprouts Stuffed
Cabbage Red Cabbage Baked Cauliflower Baked
Turnips Glazed Onions Mushroom Pudding
Boiled Potatoes Lyonnaise Potatoes Stuffed Po-
tatoes Potato Snow Bermuda Potatoes Broiled
Potatoes Saratoga Potatoes Broiled Tomatoes
Stuffed Tomatoes Fried Beans Hani and Beans
Kolcannon Carrot Stew Baked Mushrooms Stuffed
Lettuce Stewed Parsnips 91
CHAPTER X.
CHEAP DISHES WITHOUT MEAT.
Potato Soup Crowdie Peas-pudding Red Herrings with
Boiled Potatoes Oatmeal Porridge Cheese Pudding
Polenta Fish Pudding Lentils Stewed Lentils
Fried Lentils Norfolk Dumplings Salt Cod with
Parsnips Pickled Mackerel Potato Pudding 101
CONTENTS. 13
CHAPTER XI.
CHEAP DISHES WITH MEAT.
PAGE
Three Dishes from a Neck of Mutton Barley Broth
with Vegetables Mutton Stew Fried Pudding
Neck of Pork Stuffed Pigs' Feet Fried Pigs'
Tongue and Brains Roast Tripe Ragout of Haslet
Cock-a-leeky Italian Cheese Gammon Dumpling
Toad-in-the-hole Bacon Roly-Poly Baked Ox-
heart Tripe and Onions Peas and Bacon Pot-au-
Feu Ragout of Mutton 107
CHAPTER XII.
THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER.
Oatmeal Porridge A good Breakfast Stewed Fruit Ripe
Currants Blackberry Jam Baked Fruit Broiled
Chops Beefsteak Broiled Chicken Boiled Eggs
Baked Potatoes Boiled Potatoes Apple Cake Fruit
Farina Plain Cookies Plain Gingerbread Straw-
berry Shortcake Apple Custard 116
CHAPTER XIII.
COOKERY FOR INVALIDS.
Gruels Arrowroot Gruel Arrowroot Jelly Arrowroot
Wine Jelly Calf 's-foot Jelly Sago Gruel Sago Milk
Tapioca Jelly Rice Caudle Refreshing Drinks
14 CONTENTS.
Filtered Water Jelly Water Plax-seed Lemonade
Barley Water Nourishing Drinks Iceland Moss
Chocolate Egg Broth Egg Tea Very Strong Beef
Tea Quick Beef Tea Farina Gruel Nutritious
Foods Bread Jelly Crackers and Marmalade
Chicken Jelly Chicken Broth Beefsteak Juice Sal-
mon Steak Broiled Oysters 125
CHAPTER XIV.
BREAD.
Aerated Homemade Bread Homebrewed Yeast Home-
made Bread Milk Bread Rice Bread Potato
Bread Pulled Bread Baking Powder Loaf Bread
Breakfast Rolls Tea Biscuit Finger Biscuit Cream
Breakfast Rolls Breakfast Twist How to freshen
stale Bread Toast 134
THE COOKING MANUAL.
CHAPTER I.
MARKETING.
IN order to market intelligently and economi-
cally, we must bear in mind the three great divisions
of foods generally accepted in their consideration,
and endeavor to adapt them to the requirements of
our households ; if we remember that carbonaceous,
or heat-giving foods, such as the inner part of the
cereals, fat meat, milk, honey, liver, grapes, peas,
beans, potatoes, beets, carrots, and parsnips, are the
best diet for hard steady workers, and for invalids
suffering from wasting diseases ; that nitrogenous, or
flesh-forming foods, such as lean meat, unbolted
flour, oatmeal, eggs, cheese, cabbage, cauliflower,
onions, spinach, asparagus, and artichokes, are
most suitable for those who work rapidly but with
intervals of rest ; and that brain-workers should sub-
sist chiefly on light and digestible articles, such as
fish, oysters, fruits, game, and vegetables containing
mineral salts in excess ; we can arrange the daily
marketing so as to give a pleasant variety and at the
same time satisfy all appetites.
Buy only small quantities of perishable things
1 6 THE COOKING MANUAL.
such as green vegetables, fruit, fish, eggs, cream, and
fresh butter ; buy dry groceries and preserved stores
in quantities large enough to entitle you to whole-
sale prices ; and pay cash in order to avail yourself
of the lowest market price. Make your purchases
as early in the day as possible in order to secure a
choice of fresh articles ; and trade with respectable
dealers who give full weight and honest measure.
Meats. While meats are in season all the year,
they are better at stated times ; for instance, pork is
prime in late autumn and winter; veal should be
avoided in summer for sanitary reasons ; and even
our staples, beef and mutton, vary in quality. The
flesh of healthy animals is hard and fresh colored,
the fat next the skin is firm and thick, and the suet
or kidney-fat clear white and abundant ; if this fat is
soft, scant and stringy, the animal has been poorly
fed or overworked. Beef should be of a bright red
color, well marbled with yellowish fat, and sur-
rounded with a thick outside layer of fat ; poor beef
is dark red, and full of gristle, and the fat is scant and
oily. Mutton is bright red, with plenty of hard white
fat; poor mutton is dull red in color, with dark,
muddy-looking fat. Veal and pork should be bright
flesh color with abundance of hard, white, semi-
transparent fat ; when the fat is reddish and dark,
the meat is of an inferior quality ; veal and pork
should be eaten very fresh. When meat of any kind
comes into the house it should be hung up at once
in some cool, dark place, and left until wanted.
Poultry. Fresh poultry may be known by its
MARKE TING.
full bright eyes, pliable feet, and soft moist skin ; the
best is plump, fat, and nearly white, and the grain
of the flesh is fine. The feet and neck of a young
fowl are large in proportion to its size, and the tip
of the breast-bone is soft, and easily bent between
the fingers ; the body of a capon is large, fat, and
round, the head comparatively small, and the comb
pale and withered ; a young cock, has short, loose,
soft spurs, and a long, full, bright red comb ; old
fowls have long, thin necks and feet, and the flesh
on the legs and back has a purplish shade ; chickens,
capons, and fowls, are always in season.
Turkeys when good are white and plump, have
full breasts and smooth legs, generally black, with soft,
loose spurs; hen turkeys are smaller, fatter, and
plumper, but of inferior flavor ; full grown turkeys
are the best for boning and boiling, as they do not
tear in dressing; old turkeys have long hairs, and the
flesh is purplish where it shows under the skin on
the legs and back. About March they deteriorate in
quality. Turkey-poults are tender, but lack flavor.
Young ducks and geese are plump, with light,
semi-transparent fat, soft breast-bone, tender flesh,
leg joints which will break by the weight of the bird,
fresh colored and brittle beaks, and windpipes that
break when pressed between the thumb and fore-
finger. They are best in fall and winter.
Young pigeons have light red flesh upon the
breast, and full, fresh colored legs ; when the legs
are thin, and the breast is very dark, the birds are
old. Squabs are tender and delicious.
T 8 THE COOKING MANUAL.
The giblets of poultry consist of the head, neck,
wings, feet, gizzard, heart, and liver ; and make good
soup, fricassees, pies, and various entrees, or side
dishes.
Grame. Fine game birds are always heavy for
their size; the flesh of the breast is firm and plump,
the skin clear ; and if a few feathers be plucked from
the inside of the leg and around the vent, the flesh of
freshly killed birds will be fat and fresh colored ; if
it is dark, and discolored, the game has been hung
a long time. The wings of good ducks, geese, pheas-
ants, and woodcock are tender to the touch ; the
tips of the long wing feathers of partridges are pointed
in young birds, and round in old ones. Quail,
snipe, and small birds should have full tender breasts.
Young rabbits and hares have short necks, thick
knees, and forepaws which can be easily broken;
old ones are very poor.
Buffalo meat is somewhat similar in appearance
to beef, save that the flesh is darker, and the fat
redder; it is tender and juicy when it has been kept
long enough, say about two months in winter ; the
tongue, when cured, is excellent.
Venison should be tender, and very fat, or it will
be dry and tasteless.
Bear meat, when fat and tender, is savory and
nourishing.
Fish. Sea fish, and those which live in both
salt and fresh water, such as salmon, shad, and smelts,
are the finest flavored; the muddy taste of some
fresh water species can be overcome by soaking them
MARKETING. 19
in cold water and salt for two hours or more before
cooking; all kinds are best just before spawning, the
flesh becoming poor and watery after that period.
Fresh fish have firm flesh, rigid fins, bright, clear
eyes, and ruddy gills.
Oysters, clams, scallops, and mussels, should be
eaten very fresh, as they soon lose their flavor after
being removed from the shell.
Lobsters and crabs should be chosen by their
brightness of color, lively movement, and great
weight in proportion to their size.
Vegetables. All juicy vegetables should be
very fresh and crisp ; and if a little wilted, can be
restored by being sprinkled with water and laid in
a cool, dark place ; all roots and tubers should be
pared and laid in cold water an hoXir or more before
using. Green vegetables are best just before they
flower ; and roots and tubers are prime from their
ripening until spring germination begins.
Fruit. All fruit should be purchased ripe and
sound ; it is poor economy to buy imperfect or de-
cayed kinds, as they are neither satisfactory nor
healthy eating ; while the mature, full-flavored sorts
are invaluable as food.
Sweet Herbs. Sweet and savory herbs are
absolutely indispensable to good cooking ; they give
variety and savory flavors to any dish into which
they enter, and are nearly all of some decided sani-
tary use ; the different kinds called for in the various
receipts further on in this work can be bought at
almost any grocery store, or in thV 8 market ; but we
20 THE COOKING MANUAL,
advise our readers to obtain seeds from some good
florist and make little kitchen gardens of their own,
even if the space planted be only a box of mould in
the kitchen window. Sage, thyme, summer savory,
sweet marjoram, tarragon, sweet basil, rosemary,
mint, burnet, chervil, dill, and parsley, will grow
abundantly with very little care; and when dried,
and added judiciously to food, greatly improve its
flavor. Parsley, tarragon and fennel, should be dried
in May, June, and July, just before flowering ; mint
in June and July; thyme, marjoram, and savory in
July and August; basil and sage in August and
September ; all herbs should be gathered in the sun-
shine, and dried by artificial heat ; their flavor is best
preserved by keeping them in air-tight tin cans.
Bay leaves can be procured at any drug store, or
German grocery, at a very moderate expense ; they
have the flavor of laurel.
An excellent and convenient spice-salt can be
made by drying, powdering, and mixing by repeated
siftings the following ingredients : one quarter of an
ounce each of powdered thyme, bay-leaf, and pep-
per ; one eighth of an ounce each of rosemary, mar-
joram, and cayenne pepper, or powdered capsicums;
one half of an ounce each of powdered clove and
nutmeg ; to every four ounces of this powder add
one ounce of salt, and keep the mixture in an air-
tight vessel. One ounce of it added to three pounds
of stuffing, or forcemeat of any kind, makes a de-
licious seasoning.
A bouquet of Sweet herbs. The bouquet,
MARKETING. 21
)r fagot, of sweet herbs, so often called for in foreign /
cooking, is made as follows : wash three or four
sprigs of parsley, lay in their midst one sprig of thyme,
and two bay leaves ; fold the parsley over the thyme
and bay leaves, tie it in a cork-shaped roll, about
three inches long and one inch thick. The bouquet
is used for seasoning soups, sauces, stews, and savory
dishes in general, and is removed when the dish is
served.
CHAPTER II.
SOUPS.
Soup is the most satisfactory and nourishing of
all dishes when it is properly made. Its value de-
pends upon what is put into it, but even in its most
economical form it constitutes a hearty meal when
eaten with bread and vegetables. It can be made
from the merest scraps and trimmings of meat ; from
the heads, tails, and feet of animals ; from the bones
and skin of fish ; and from cereals and vegetables
alone. Pot liquor in which meat has been boiled
should always be saved and used for soup the next
day, when by the removal of all fat, by careful skim-
ming, and the addition of a few vegetables or some
dumplings, rice, or macaroni, it will make a palatable
broth. Experiments made by French chemists prove
that the delicacy and richness of soup may be in-
creased by first soaking the meat in tepid water
enough to cover it, and adding this to the second
water in which the meat is put over the fire, just as
it reaches the boiling point.
i. General Stock. PART I. Where there is
a family of any size it is well to keep a clean pot or
sauce-pan on the back of the stove to receive all the
clean scraps of meat, bones, and remains of poultry
SO UPS. 23
and game, which are found in every kitchen; but
vegetables should not be put into it, as they are apt
to sour. The proper proportions for soup are one
pound of meat and bone to one and a half quarts of
cold water ; the meat and bones to be well chopped
and broken up, and put over the fire in cold water,
being brought slowly to a boil, and carefully skim-
med as often as any scum rises ; and being main-
tained at a steady boiling point from two to six
hours, as time permits ; one hour before the stock is
done, add to it one carrot and one turnip pared, one
onion stuck with three cloves, and a bouquet of sweet
herbs.
PART II. When the soup is to be boiled six hours,
two quarts of cold water must be allowed to every
pound of meat ; this will be reduced to one quart in
boiling. Two gills of soup are usually allowed for each
person at table when it is served as the first part of the
dinner, and meats are to follow it. Care should be
taken that the stock-pot boils slowly and constantly,
from one side, as rapid and irregular boiling clouds and
darkens the stock as much as imperfect skimming.
Stock should never be allowed to cool in the stock-
pot, but should be strained into an earthen jar, and
left standing to cool uncovered, and all the fat re-
moved, and saved to clarify for drippings ; the stock
is then ready to heat and use for soup, or gravy.
When stock has been darkened and clouded by care-
less skimming and fast boiling, it can be clarified by
adding to it one egg and the shell, mixed first with a
gill of cold water, then with a gill of boiling soup,
24 THE COOKING MANUAL.
and stirring it briskly into the soup until it boils ;
then remove it to the back of the fire where it will
not boil, and let it stand until the white and shell of
the egg have collected the small particles clouding the
soup ; then strain it once or twice, until it looks clear.
2. Flavoring, thickening, and coloring
soups. The flavor of soup stock may be varied by
using in it a little ham, anchovy, sausage, sugar, or
a calf s foot. Herbs in the sprig, and whole spices
should be used in seasoning, as they can easily be
strained out. All delicate flavors, and wine, should
be added to soup just before serving it, unless the
contrary is expressly directed in the receipt, because
boiling would almost entirely evaporate them : one
gill of wine is usually allowed to every three pints
of soup.
Soups which precede a full dinner should be less
rich than those which form the bulk of the meal.
Corn starch, arrow root, and potato flour are better
than wheat flour for thickening soup. The meal of
peas and beans can be held in suspension by mixing
together dry a tablespoonful of butter and flour, and
stirring it into the soup ; a quarter of a pint of peas,
beans, or lentils, is sufficient to make a quart of
thick soup. Two ounces of macaroni, vermicelli,
pearl barley, sago, tapioca, rice, or oatmeal, are
usually allowed for each quart of stock.
If you wish to darken soup use a teaspoonful of
caramel; but avoid burnt flour, carrot, and onion, as
all these give a bad flavor. Caramel can be made
from the following receipt ; melt half a pound of
SOUPS. 25
loaf sugar in a thick copper vessel, Stirring it fre-
quently with a wooden spoon, and boiling it slowly
until it assumes a rich brown color, but do not let it
burn ; when brown enough add one quart of cold
water, stir well, and boil gently at the side of the
fire for twenty minutes ; then cool, strain, and bottle
tight. In using the caramel add it just as you are
about to serve the soup, or sauce colored with it.
3. Clear Soup, or Consomme^ (Two
quarts for eight persons.) This is made by strain-
ing two quarts of stock, which has been cooled and
freed from fat, through a piece of flannel or a napkin
until it is bright and clear ; if this does not entirely
clear it, use an egg, as directed for clarifying soup ;
then season it to taste with salt, using at first a tea-
spoonful, and a very little fine white pepper, say a
quarter of a saltspoonful ; and color it to a bright
straw color with caramel, of which a scant teaspoon-
ful will be about the proper quantity. Consomme is
sent to the table clear, but sometimes a deep dish
containing poached eggs, one for each person, with
enough consomme to cover them, accompanies it.
4. Poached Eggs for Ccnsomme\ Break
the eggs, which should be very fresh, into a deep
sauce-pan half 'full of boiling water, seasoned with a
teaspoonful of salt, and half a gill of vinegar ; cover
the sauce-pan, and set it on the back part of the fire
until the whites of the eggs are firm ; then lift them
separately on a skimmer, carefully trim off the rough
edges, making each egg a regular oval shape, and
slip them off the skimmer into a bowl of hot, but not
2
26 THE COOKING MANUAL.
boiling water, Vhere they must stand for ten minutes
before serving.
5. Vermicelli and Macaroni Soup. These
soups are both made as for consomme, ; and to every
quart of stock is added two ounces of one of these
pastes blanched as follows. Put the paste into plenty
of boiling water, with one tablespoonful of salt to
each quart of water, and boil until tender enough to
pierce with the finger nail ; then drain it, and put it
in cold water until required for use, when it should
be placed in the two quarts of hot soup long enough
to heat thoroughly before serving.
6. Rice and Tomato Soup. Strain, and pass
through a sieve with a wooden spoon, one pint of
tomatoes, either fresh or canned, stir them into two
quarts of good, clear stock, free from fat ; season it
with a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoon-
ful of pepper ; taste, and if the seasoning seems defi-
cient add a little more, but do not put in too much
for general liking, for more can easily be added,
but none can be taken out. Add four ounces of
rice, well washed in plenty of cold water, and boil
the soup slowly for three quarters of an hour before
serving.
7. Scotch Broth without Meat. Steep
four ounces of pearl barley over night in cold water,
and wash it well in fresh water ; cut in dice half an
inch square, six ounces of yellow turnip, six ounces
of carrot, four ounces of onion, two ounces of celery,
(or use in its place quarter of a saltspoonful of celery
seed ;) put all these into two and a half quarts of
SOUPS. 37
boiling water, season with a teaspoonful of salt,
quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and as much
cayenne as you can take up on the point of a very
small pen-knife blade; boil slowly for two hours;
then stir in quarter of a pound of oatmeal, mixed to
a smooth batter with cold water, see if seasoning be
correct, add two or three grates of nutmeg, and boil
half an hour. Meantime, cut two slices of bread in
half inch dice, fry light brown in hot fat, and lay the
bits in the soup tureen ; when the soup is ready
pour it over them, and serve. This soup is very rich
and nutritious, and should be served with light
dinners.
8. Scotch Broth with Meat. Put four
ounces of barley to soak in warm water. From two
pounds of the shoulder of mutton, cut the lean meat
in dice half an inch square ; cut up the rest in small
pieces and make a stock as directed in receipt No. i.,
Part /., using two and a half quarts of water, and
boiling and skimming for two hours ; at the end of
an hour and a half put the dice of meat into a sauce-
pan with two ounces of butter, and fry them brown ;
stir in one ounce of flour; cut in dice six ounces
each of yellow turnip and carrot, chop four ounces
of onion, and put these with the meat ; add the bar-
ley, and the stock strained, season with a teaspoon-
ful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper,
and simmer one hour. Then serve with a table-
spoonful of chopped parsley sprinkled in the soup.
9. Spinach Soup. Blanch two quarts of
spinach, by putting it into a large pot full of boiling
28 THE COOKING MANUAL.
water, with two tablespoonsful of salt, cover until it
boils up once ; then remove the cover, and with a
wooden spoon press the spinach under water as fast
as it rises to the surface ; boil it steadily until it is ten-
der enough to pierce easily with the finger nail ; then
drain it ; run plenty of cold water from the faucet
over it, while it is still in the colander ; drain it
again, chop it fine, and pass it through a kitchen
sieve with the aid of a wooden spoon ; boil two
quarts of milk, add the spinach to it, thicken it by
stirring in one tablespoonful of corn starch dissolved
in cold milk ; season it with one teaspoonful of salt,
quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper, and the
same of nutmeg; and serve it as soon as it boils up.
10. Sorrel Soup. Put one pint of sorrel into a
saucepan with a dessert spoonful of salt, and one gill
of cold water; cover it, and cook until it is tender
enough to pierce with the finger nail, then drain,
wash it well with cold water, chop it and pass it
through the kitchen sieve with a wooden spoon;
meantime brown half an ounce of chopped onion in
a sauce-pan with one ounce of butter ; add one ounce
of flour, and stir till brown ; then add two quarts of
hot water, or hot water and stock, and the sorrel, and
season with one teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a salt-
spoonful of pepper, and the same of nutmeg; mix
the yolks of two eggs with two tablespoonmls of cold
water, add to them half a pint of boiling soup, and
gradually stir the mixture into the soup, boiling it
a minute after it is thoroughly blended ; meantime
cut two slices of bread into half inch dice, fry them
SOUPS. 29
brown in smoking hot fat, drain them free from grease
on a napkin, put them into a soup tureen, pour the
soup on them, and serve at once.
1 1 . Pea Soup. Use half a pint of dried peas for
thick soup, or one pint for a puree, to two quarts of
stock or cold water. Bring slowly to a boil ; add a
bone or bit of ham, one turnip and one carrot peeled,
one onion stuck with three cloves, and simmer three
hours stirring occasionally to prevent burning; then
pass the soup through a sieve with the aid of a potato
masher; and if it shows any sign of settling stir into
it one tablespoonful each of butter and flour mixed
together dry; this will hold the meal in solution;
meantime fry some dice of stale bread, about two
slices, cut half an inch square, in hot fat, drain them
on a napkin, and put them in the bottom of the soup
tureen in which the pea soup is served.
12. Lentil Soup. The seed of the lentil tare
commonly cultivated in France and Germany as an
article of food, ranks nearly as high as meat, as a
valuable food, being capable of sustaining life and
vigor for a long time; this vegetable is gradually
becoming known in this country, from the use of it
by our French and German citizens ; and from its
nutritive value it deserves to rank as high as our
favorite New England beans. For two quarts of
lentil soup half a pint of yellow lentils should be well
washed, and put to boil in three pints of cold water,
with a small carrot, an onion, two sprigs of parsley,
and two bay leaves, and boiled gently until the lentils
are soft enough to break easily between the fingers ;
30 THE COOKING MANUAL.
every half hour one gill of cold water should be
added, and the lentils again raised to the boiling
point, until they are done ; they should then be
drained in a colander, and passed through a sieve
with a wooden spoon, using enough of the liquor to
make them pass easy, and mixed with the rest of the
soup ; it is then ready to simmer for half an hour,
and serve hot, with dice of fried bread half an inch
square, like those used for pea soup. These dice of
fried bread are called Conde crusts.
CHAPTER III.
FISH.
WHEN fish is rather deficient in flavor, a little
vinegar rubbed over the skin ; and a few sweet herbs
boiled with it will greatly improve it. For boiling,
large fish should be placed on the fire in cold water,
and small ones in hot water ; both are done when the
fins pull out easily. Fish soup is the most economi-
cal of all fish dishes ; baked fish the second best ;
broiled fish retains nearly all its nourishment ; and
boiled fish is the poorest of all. The following
technical terms are used to denote different methods
of cooking fish : to dress fish a la Hollandaise is to
boil it in sea water ; a I'eau de sel, in salt and water ;
au court bouillon, with cold water, white wine or vin-
egar, sweet herbs, soup vegetables, lemon, and whole
spices ; a la bonne eau, with sweet herbs and cold
water ; au bleu* in equal quantities of red wine and
cold water, highly flavored with spices and aromatic
herbs.
13. Boiled Cod with Oyster Sauce. Lay
two pounds of cod in enough cold water to cover it,
with a tablespoonful of salt, for an hour or more be-
fore cooking ; then put it to boil in three quarts of
cold water, with two tablespoonfuls of salt ; as soon
3 2 THE COOKING MANUAL.
as the fish is done, set the kettle containing it off the
fire, and let the fish stand in it until you are ready
to use it ; meantime put a pint of oysters on the fire
to boil in their own liquor; as soon as they boil drain
them, and put the liquor again on the fire to boil ;
mix together in a sauce-pan over the fire one ounce
of butter and one ounce of flour, as soon as it bub-
bles, gradually .pour in the boiling oyster liquor, and
stir with an egg whip until the sauce is quite smooth ;
season with half a teaspoonful of salt, an eighth of a
saltspoonful of pepper, and the same of nutmeg; and
add the oysters. Take up the fish, serve it on a
napkin, and send it to the table with a bowl con-
taining the oyster sauce.
14. Baked Blackfish. Have a fish weighing
from two to two and a half pounds cleaned by tjie
fishmonger ; rub it well with a handful of salt, to re-
move the slime peculiar to this fish, wash it well, and
wipe it with a clean, dry cloth ; stuff it with the fol- '
lowing forcemeat. Put four ounces of stale bread to
soak in sufficient luke-warm water to cover it ; mean-
time fry one ounce of chopped onion in one ounce of
butter until it is light brown ; then wring the bread
dry in a clean towel, put it into the onion with two
tablespoonsful of chopped parsley, one ounce of salt
pork chopped fine, one teaspoonful of chopped ca-
pers or pickles, one teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a
saltspoonful of white pepper, and one gill of broth
or hot water; stir until it is scalding hot, when it
will cleave from the bottom and sides of the sauce-
pan ; then stuff the fish with it, and lay it in a drip-
FISH. 33
ping pan on one ounce of carrot and one ounce of
onion sliced, one bay leaf and two sprigs of parsley ;
cover the fish with slices of salt pork, season it with
a saltspoonful of salt, and one fourth that quantity
of pepper, and bake it in a moderate oven for half-
an hour, basting it occasionally with a little butter,
or stock. When it is done, put it on a dish to keep
hot while you prepare a sauce by straining the drip-
pings in the pan, and adding to them one table-
spoonful each of walnut catsup, Worcestershire sauce,
chopped capers, and chopped parsley. Pour a little
of this sauce in the bottom of the dish under the
fish, and serve the rest with it in a bowl.
15. Broiled Shad with Malt re d'hotel
butter. Choose a medium sized shad, weighing
about three pounds, have it cleaned and split down
the back ; turn it occasionally for an hour or more,
in a marinade made of one tablespoonful of salad
oil, or melted butter, one of vinegar, a saltspoonful
of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper ; lay
it on a gridiron, rubbed with a little butter to prevent
sticking, broil it slowly, doing the inside first, and,
after laying it on a hot dish, spread over it some
maitre d'hotel butter.
1 6. Maitre d'hotel Butter. Mix together
cold, one ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of chopped
parsley, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and quarter of
a saltspoonful of pepper; and spread it over the
broiled shad. This butter is excellent for any kind
of broiled fish, or for steaks.
17. Fried Smelts, French Style. Carefully
34 THE COOKING MANUAL.
wipe two pounds of cleaned smelts with a dry cloth ;
dip them in milk, then roll them in finely powdered
cracker crumbs, next in an egg beaten with a salt-
spoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pep-
per, and then again in cracker crumbs ; fry them in
enough smoking hot fat to cover them, until they are
golden brown ; take them from the fat with a skim-
mer, lay them on a napkin, or a piece of paper to
absorb all fat ; and serve them laid in rows with a
few quarters of lemon on the side of the dish.
1 8. Fillet of Sole au gratin. Choose two
flounders weighing about three pounds. Lay them
on the table with the dark side uppermost ; with a
sharp, thin-bladed knife cut down to the back bone,
following the dark line in the middle of the fish;
then turn the edge of the knife outward, and cut to-
wards the fins, keeping the blade flat against the
bone, and removing one quarter of the flesh of the
fish in a single piece ; proceed in the same way until
you have eight fillets ; carefully cut the skin from
them ; season them with salt and pepper, lay them
on a buttered dish suitable to send to table, sprinkle
them thickly with sifted cracker crumbs, and a little
grated Parmesan, or any rich, dry cheese ; put a few
bits of butter over them, using not more than an
ounce in all, and brown them in a quick oven. Serve
them as soon as they are nicely browned. This is a
very savory and delicate dish, requiring some prac-
tice to do nicely, but comparatively inexpensive, and
well worth all trouble taken in making it.
19. St. James Fish Chowder. Put half a
FISH. 35
pound of sliced salt pork in the bottom of a deep
sauce-pan and fry it brown ; take it out, and put in
layers of potatoes, onions and fish sliced, seasoning
each layer plentifully with salt and pepper; using
about three pounds of fish, and a quart each of pota-
toes and onions ; cover with cold water, bring grad-
ually to a boil, and cook slowly for thirty minutes ;
then add two pounds of sea-biscuits soaked for
five minutes in warm water, and boil five minutes
longer and serve. This receipt calls for the ad-
dition of half a pint of port wine, and a bottle of
champagne to be added to the chowder just before
serving; but it is quite good enough without, and far
less expensive.
20. Club House Fish Cakes. Wash and boil
one quart of potatoes, putting them on the fire in
cold water enough to cover them, and a tablespoon-
ful of salt. Put one and a half pounds of salt cod-
fish on the fire in plenty of cold water, and bring it
slowly to a boil ; as soon as it boils throw off that
water, and put it again on the fire in fresh cold
water ; if the fish is very salt change the water a third
time. Free the fish from skin and bone ; peel the
potatoes, mash them through a colander with a potato
masher, season them with quarter of a saltspoonful
of pepper and an ounce of butter ; add the yolks of
two eggs, and the fish ; mix well, and make into cakes,
using a little flour to prevent sticking to the hands.
Fry them golden brown in enough smoking hot fat
to nearly cover them; observe that in frying any
article of food it will not soak fat if the latter be hot
36 THE COOKING MANUAL.
enough to carbonize the outside at once, and smok-
ing hot fat will do that.
21. Sardine Sandwiches. Butter sixteen
thin slices of bread on both sides, put between each
two a very thin layer of sardines, sprinkled with a
little lemon juice, and brown them in a quick oven.
22. Warmed up boiled fish, with Dutch
Sauce. Put the cold fish on the fire in plenty of
cold water and salt, and let it come slowly to a boil;
meantime make a sauce for it as follows.
23. Dutch Sauce. Put one ounce of butter,
and one ounce of flour in a sauce-pan over the fire,
and stir constantly until it bubbles ; then add grad-
ually one gill of boiling water, remove the sauce from
the fire, stir in the yolks of three eggs, one at a time,
add one saltspoonful of dry mustard ; add one table-
spoonful of vinegar and three of oil, gradually, drop
by drop, stirring constantly till smooth. When the
fish is warmed take it up carefully without breaking
and serve with the Dutch sauce in a boat.
CHAPTER IV.
RELISHES.
THE dishes known as relishes are usually eaten
at dinner just after the soup or fish ; they are in re-
ality the restorers of appetite ; they are usually cold,
and are sent to the table on small oval dishes, or
ornamental boats.
24. Anchovies. (One for each person!) The
best anchovies are small and plump, with white
scales, and dark red pickle ; they are prepared for
the table by soaking two hours in cold water, taking
out the backbone, removing the scales and some of
the small bones, and serving them, with oil or vine-
gar in a suitable dish, or pickle shell.
25. Sardines. (One for each person!} Sardines
are served by wiping them, and serving them on a
small dish with quarters of lemons beside them.
26. Pickled Herrings. (One for each person!}
These are served in a boat with a few capers, and
a little chopped parsley sprinkled over them.
27. Scalloped Oysters. (One shell for each
person.") Blanch one quart of oysters by bring-
ing just to a boil in their own liquor, then strain
them, saving the liquor, and keeping it hot;
wash them in cold water and drain them; mix
38 THE COOKI::G MANUAL.
one ounce of butter and one ounce of flour to-
gether in a sauce-pan over the fire ; as soon as
it is smooth gradually stir in one pint of the oyster
liquor, which must be boiling; season the sauce with
half a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoon-
ful each of white pepper and nutmeg ; put the oysters
into it to heat, while you thoroughly wash eight or
ten deep oystershells with a brush ; fill them with the
oysters, dust them thickly with bread crumbs ; put
a small bit of butter on each one, and brown them
in a quick oven ; they should be sent to the table
laid on a napkin neatly folded on a platter.
28. Welsh Rare-bit. Grate one pound of
rich cheese, mix it over the fire with one gill of ale,
working it smooth with a spoon ; season it with a
saltspoonful of dry mustard; meantime make two
large slices of toast, lay them on a hot dish, and as
soon as the cheese is thoroughly melted, pour it over
the toast and send it to the table at once.
29. Golden Buck. Prepare the cheese and
toast as in receipt No. 28 ; cut the toast in eight
pieces ; while the cheese is melting poach eight eggs,
by dropping them gently into plenty of boiling water
containing a teaspoonful of salt, and half a gill of
vinegar ; as soon as the whites are firm, take them
carefully out on a skimmer, trim off the edges, and
slip them again into warm water, while you divide
the cheese on the pieces of toast; then lay an egg on
each piece, and serve at once. The success of
the dish depends upon having the eggs, cheese, and
toast ready at the same moment, putting them
RELISHES. 39
together very quickly, and serving them before
they cool.
30. Mock Crab. Break up half a pound of
soft, rich cheese with a fork, mix with it a teaspoon-
ful of dry mustard, a saltspoonful of salt, half a salt-
spoonful of pepper, and a dessertspoonful of vinegar;
serve it cold, with a plate of thin bread and butter,
or crisp crackers.
31. English bread and butter. Cut an
even slice off a large loaf of fresh homemade bread ;
butter the cut end of the loaf thinly, then hold it
against the side with the left hand and arm, and with
a sharp, thin knife, cut an even slice not more than
an eighth of an inch thick ; a little practice, and a
steady grasp of bread and knife, will enable any one
to produce regular whole slices ; fold each one double,
with the butter inside ; and cut as many as you re-
quire ; serve them on a clean napkin, and send them
to the table with any other of the above relishes.
32. Cheese Straws, Sift six ounces of flour
on the pastry board, make a hole or well in the cen-
tre ; into this well put two tablespoonfuls of cream,
three ounces of grated Parmesan, or any rich dry
cheese, four ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of
salt, quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper, and the
same quantity of grated nutmeg, together with as much
cayenne as you can take up on the point of a very
small penknife blade ; mix all these ingredients with
the tips of the fingers, to a firm paste, knead it well,
roll it out an eighth of an inch thick \ and with a sharp
knife, or pastry j agger, cut it in straws about eight
40 THE COOKING MANUAL.
inches long, and quarter of an inch wide ; lay the
strips carefully on a buttered tin, and bake them light
straw color in a moderate oven.. These cheese straws
make a delicious accompaniment to salad.
33. Epicurean Butter. Bone and skin four
anchovies or sardines, and chop them fine ; chop a
tablespoonful of chives, and the same quantity of
tarragon leaves, four small green pickles, the yolks
of two hard boiled eggs ; mix with these ingredients,
a level teaspoonful of French mustard, a saltspoonful
of salt, and two ounces of sweet butter ; pass them
all through a fine sieve with the aid of a wooden
spoon ; put it on the ice to cool, and then mould it
in balls the size of a walnut, by rolling small lumps
between two little wooden paddles; serve it with
crackers and cheese.
These receipts are given because many persons call
for them ; the author begs leave to accompany them
with the assurance that a prolonged diet of any of them
will produce a well grounded dyspepsia in a very mod-
erate length of time.
CHAPTER V.
SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES.
THE multitude of dishes known as entrees, repre-
sent to a great extent the economical use of food for
which the French are so celebrated ; they are based
upon the principles of suitable combination. Usage
has classed certain sorts of food together as fit ad-
juncts; for instance, bon vivants instruct us that
white sauces and light wines are the best accompani-
ments for fish, poultry, and the white meats ; and
that brown sauces, and rich, heavy wines, naturally
follow with the dark meats and game. These gen-
eral principles readily apply to the preparation of
the numberless made dishes which are the glory of
European cookery, and which transform the remains
of an ordinary meat breakfast into a delicious
luncheon, or an inviting side-dish for dinner. The
fact that the secret of all good cookery is economy,
must be our apology for treating this division of our
subject at some length; and we beg our readers to
test our receipts before accusing us of attempting to
introduce obnoxious and difficult culinary methods
into American kitchens.
34. How Meat should be Broiled. In
broiling all meats, you must remember that the
42 THE COOKING MANUAL.
surface should not be cut or broken any more
than is absolutely necessary ; that the meat should
be exposed to a clear, quick fire, close enough to
sear the surface without burning, in order to con-
fine all its juices ; if it is approached slowly to a
poor fire, or seasoned before it is cooked, it will be
comparatively dry and tasteless, as both of these pro-
cesses are useful only to extract and waste those
precious juices which contain nearly all the nourish-
ing properties of the meat.
35. Parisian Potatoes. Pare and cut one
quart of raw potatoes in balls the size of a walnut,
reserving the trimmings to use for mashed potatoes ;
put the balls over the fire in plenty of cold water and
salt, and boil them until just tender enough to pierce
easily with a fork ; which will be in about fifteen
minutes ; drain them, lay them on a towel a moment
to dry them, and then brown them in enough smok-
ing hot lard to immerse them entirely ; when they
are brown take them up in a colander, and sprinkle
them with a saltspoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful
of chopped parsley.
36. To broil a Beefsteak. Rub the bars of
the gridiron smooth, and then grease them slightly ;
lay on a sirloin steak weighing about three pounds ;
put the gridiron over a hot fire ; if the fire is not clear
throw a handful of salt into it to clear it ; broil the
steak, turning it frequently so that it cannot burn,
until it is done to the required degree ; do not cut
into it to ascertain this, but test it by pressing the
tips of the fingers upon it ; if it spring up again af-
SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 43
ter the pressure is removed it is done rare ; if it re-
mains heavy and solid it is well done ; while it is
broiling prepare a maitre d'hotd butter according to
receipt No. 16; spread it over the steak after you
have laid it on a hot dish, and arrange the Parisian
potatoes at the sides of the dish ; send it to the table
at once. After the proper cooking of a steak comes
the immediate eating thereof, if it is to be found
perfect.
37. Plain Rump Steak. Broil three pounds
of tender rump steak according to directions in re-
ceipt No. 36, put it on a hot dish, season it with a
level teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoon-
ful of pepper, spread over it one ounce of butter,
and lay two tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish on
the side of the platter, and serve it hot, without
delay.
38. Portuguese Beef. Cut in thin shavings
two pounds of cold beef, and put it into a sauce-pan
with half a pint of any .brown gravy, and heat it
gradually ; in another pan put one small onion chop-
ped fine, the rind of one orange chopped, the juice,
quarter of a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, as much
cayenne as can be taken up on the point of a very
small penknife blade, and one gill of port wine ; boil
these ingredients rapidly until the liquid is reduced '
one half, and then mix them with the beef; fry in
hot fat some slices of bread, cut in the shape of
hearts, about two inches long and one inch wide, I
pile the beef in a mound on a hot dish, lay the ^
tons of fried bread around it, and serve it hot.
44 THE COOKING MANUAL.
39. Bubble and Squeak. Cut about two
pounds of cold meat in neat slices, put them into a
pan with an ounce of butter, and brown them ; at
the same time chop one head of tender cabbage,
without the stalks, put it into a sauce-pan with two
ounces of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, and quarter
of a saltspoonful of pepper, and stir it occasionally
over the fire until it is quite tender ; when both are
done, lay the slices of beef in the centre of a hot
dish, and arrange the cabbage around it ; serve it
hot.
40. Stewed Kidneys. Cut one large beef
kidney in thin slices about an inch long; fry two
ounces of onion in one ounce of butter, until pale
yellow ; add the kidney, fry or rather sauter it, for
about five minutes, shaking the pan frequently to
prevent burning ; then stir in one ounce and a half
of flour, season with one saltspoonful of salt, a quar-
ter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and the same of pow-
dered sweet herbs made as directed on page 20, and
one gill of boiling water; cook ten minutes longer;
meantime make eight heart-shaped croutons of bread,
as directed in receipt No. 38 ; add one gill of Ma-
deira wine to the kidneys, pour them on a hot dish,
sprinkle them with a teaspoonful of chopped pars-
ley, arrange the croutons around the border of the
dish, and serve hot at once. The success of this
dish depends on serving it while the kidneys are
tender ; too much cooking hardens them ; and they
must not be allowed to stand after they are done, or
they deteriorate.
SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 45
41. Haricot or Stew of Mutton. Trim a
neck of mutton, weighing about two pounds, of all
superfluous fat, cut it into cutlets, put them in a deep
sauce-pan with one ounce of butter, and fry them
brown ; pour off all fat, add two ounces of flour, stir
till brown, moisten with one quart and a half of
stock, or water, and stir occasionally until the
haricot boils ; meantime cut one quart of carrots
and turnips, half and half, in small balls, and add
them, with one dozen button onions, a bouquet of
sweet herbs, half a saltspoonful of pepper, and a
teaspoonful of salt ; simmer for one hour ; take up
the cutlets with a fork, skim out the vegetables, and
remove the bouquet ; lay the cutlets in a wreath on a
hot dish, place the vegetables in the centre, and strain
the gravy over all. Green peas, new turnips, or new
potatoes, may replace the first named vegetables.
The dish should always be sent to the table hot.
42. Epigramme of Lamb, with Piquante
Sauce. Boil a breast of young mutton, weighing
from two to three pounds until tender, either in the
stock-pot, or in hot water seasoned with salt, two
cloves stuck in a small onion, and a bouquet of sweet
herbs made as directed in the first chapter ; when it
is tender enough to permit the bones to be drawn
out easily, take it up, lay it on a pan, put another,
containing weights, on it, and press it until it is cold ;
then cut it in eight triangular pieces, about the size
of a small cutlet ; season them with salt and pepper ;
roll them first in sifted cracker dust, then in an egg
beaten with a tablespoonful of cold water, and 'again
46 THE COOKING MANUAL.
in cracker dust ; fry them light brown in enough
smoking hot fat to cover them.
43. Piquante Sauce. While the lamb is fry-
ing, chop one tablespoonful of capers, two of shallot,
or small, finely flavored onion, and the same quantity
of green gherkins ; place them over the fire in a
sauce-pan with one gill of vinegar, two bay leaves,
quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and the same of
powdered thyme, and boil quickly until the vinegar
is reduced to one third of its original quantity ; then
add half a pint of rich brown gravy of any kind, or
of Spanish sauce, which may always be kept on
hand ; boil the sauce gently for five minutes, take
out the bay-leaves, and pour a little of the sauce on
the bottom of a hot platter ; when the pieces of
breast are brown, take them up with a skimmer, and
lay them on soft paper, or on a clean napkin for a
moment, to free them from grease, and arrange them
in a wreath on the platter containing the sauce ;
serve them at once, with the rest of the sauce in a
gravy boat.
44. Spanish Sauce. Fry one ounce of ham or
bacon, cut in half-inch dice, with one ounce of fat ;
add to it, as soon as brown, two ounces of carrot
sliced, two ounces of onion sliced; stir in two ounces
of dry flour, and brown well ; then add one quart of
stock ; or if none is on hand, one quart of water,
and half a pound of lean meat chopped fine ; season
with a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful
of pepper, and a bouquet of sweet herbs, made as
directed in the first chapter ; simmer gently for an
SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 47
hour, skimming as often as any scum rises ; then
strain the sauce, add one gill of wine to it, and use
it to dress any dark meat, game, or baked fish. This
sauce will keep a week or longer, in a cool place.
45. Kromeskys, -with Spanish Sauce.
Cut one pound of cold roast lamb, or mutton, in
half inch dice ; chop one ounce of onion, and fry it
pale yellow in one ounce of butter ; add one ounce of
flour, and stir until smooth ; add half a pint of Span-
ish sauce, or water, if no sauce is at hand, two table-
spoonfuls of chopped parsley, one level teaspoonful
of salt, one level saltspoonful of white pepper, half a
saltspoonful of powdered herbs, as much cayenne as
can be taken up on the point of a very small penknife
blade, and the chopped meat ; two ounces of mush-
rooms, slightly warmed with quarter of an ounce of
butter, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice, improve the
flavor of the kromeskys exceedingly ; stir until scald-
ing hot, add the yolk of one raw egg, cook for two
minutes, stirring frequently ; and turn out to cool on
a flat dish, slightly oiled, or buttered, to prevent
sticking, spreading the minced meat about an inch
thick ; set away to cool while the batter is being
made.
46. Plain Frying Batter. Mix quarter of a
pound of flour with the yolks of two raw eggs, a level
saltspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper,
quarter of a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, one table-
spoonful of salad oil, (which is used to make the bat-
ter, crisp,) and one cup of water, more or less, as the
flour will take it up ; the batter should be stiff enough
48 THE COOKING MANUAL.
i
to hold the drops from the spoon in shape when they
are let fall upon it ; now beat the whites of the two
eggs to a stiff froth, beginning slowly, and increasing
the speed until you are beating as fast as you can ; the
froth will surely come ; then stir it lightly into the bat-
ter ; heat the dish containing the meat a moment, to
loosen it, and turn it out on the table, just dusted with
powdered crackers ; cut it in strips an inch wide and
two inches long, roll them lightly under the palm of
the hand, in the shape of corks, dip them in the batter,
and fry them golden brown in smoking hot fat. Serve
them on a neatly folded napkin. They make a de-
licious dish, really worth all the care taken in pre-
paring them.
47. Sheep's Tongues with Spinach. Boil
eight sheep's tongues in the stock pot, or in hot water
with a bouquet of sweet herbs, and a gill of vinegar,
for about an hour, or until they are quite tender ; then
remove them from the stock, lay them on their sides
on a flat dish, place over them another dish with
weights on it, and allow them to cool: trim them
neatly, put them into a sauce-pan with enough Spanish
sauce, or brown gravy to cover them, and heat them
gradually.
48. To boil Spinach. Wash and trim one quart
of green spinach, put it into a sauce-pan holding at
least three quarts of boiling water, and three table-
spoonfuls of salt, and boil it rapidly, with the cover off,
until it is tender enough to pierce easily with the
finger nail, which will be in from three to seven min-
utes, according to the age of the spinach ; then drain
SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 49
it in a colander, wash it in cold water, thoroughly
drain it again, and chop it very fine, or pass it through
a sieve with a wooden spoon ; put it into a sauce-pan
with enough Spanish sauce or brown gravy to moisten
it, season it with a saltspoonful of salt, and half that
quantity of white pepper, and heat it until it steams ;
arrange the tongues in a wreath on a hot platter, put
the spinach in the centre, and pour the gravy in which
the tongues were heated, over them. Serve hot at
once.
49. Broiled Sheep's Kidneys. Split eight
kidneys lengthwise, skin them, lay them for half an
hour in a dish containing a tablespoonful of salad oil,
the same of some spiced vinegar, or table sauce, and
a saltspoonful of salt and pepper mixed equally ; turn
them frequently ; then roll them in cracker dust, lay
them on a greased gridiron, and broil them, the inside
first ; when done brown, place them on a hot dish,
with a small piece of maitre (T hotel butter in each,
made according to receipt No. 16, and send them hot
to the table.
50. Liver Rolls. Cut two sheep's livers in slices
half an inch thick ; season them with salt and pepper ;
spread over each a layer of sausage meat as thick as
the liver, season that, roll each slice up, and tie it in
place with a string ; on the bottom of a baking pan
put one ounce of carrot, and one ounce of onion sliced,
two bay leaves, one sprig of thyme, three of parsley,
and an ounce of salt pork sliced ; lay the liver on these,
put over each roll a tablespoonful of brown gravy, or
Spanish sauce, and bake them in a moderate oven
3
50 THE COOKING MANUAL.
about forty minutes, or until they are thoroughly
cooked ; lay them on a hot platter, add a gill of stock
or water to the pan they were baked in, stir the vege-
tables about in it, and strain it over the liver. Serve
at once.
51. Fried Brains with Tomato Sauce.
Lay four pieces of calf's brains in cold water and salt
for one hour, to draw out the blood ; meantime begin
a tomato sauce as directed below ; carefully remove
the outer skin without breaking the brains ; put them
over the fire in enough cold water to cover them, with
half a gill of vinegar, two bay leaves, a sprig of parsley,
and an onion stuck with three cloves ; bring them to
a boil, and simmer slowly for ten minutes ; take them
up carefully, and lay them in cold water and salt to
cool. When cool, cut each one in two pieces, roll
them first in cracker dust, then in one raw egg beaten
with a tablespoonful of cold water, then again in cracker
dust, and fry them in plenty of smoking hot fat ; as
soon as they are golden brown take them up on a
skimmer, and lay them on a soft paper or napkin to
absorb all fat, and then arrange on a platter containing
half a pint of tomato sauce.
52. Tomato Sauce. Put into a thick sauce-
pan half a can, or one pint of tomatoes, one ounce of
carrot, and the same quantity of onion sliced, one
ounce of salt pork cut in small bits, a bouquet of
sweet herbs, made as directed in Chapter first, four
cloves, one clove of garlic, if it is liked, one teaspoon-
ful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and a
gill of stock, gravy, or water; simmer slowly one
SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 51
hour, and pass through a sieve with a wooden spoon.
This is an excellent sauce for any breaded side dish.
53. Calf's Liver larded. The operation of
larding is done by passing strips of larding pork,
which is firm, white, fat pork, cut two inches long, and
quarter of an inch square, in rows along the surface
of a liver, placing the strips of pork in the split end
of a larding needle, and with it taking a stitch about
a quarter of an inch deep and one inch long in the
surface of the liver, and leaving the ends of the pork
projecting equally ; the rows must be inserted regu-
larly, the ends of the second coming between the ends
of the first, and so on, until the surface is covered ;
the liver is then laid in a dripping pan on one ounce
of carrot, one ounce of onions, and one ounce of salt
pork sliced, half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a
saltspoonful of pepper, three sprigs of parsley, one
of thyme, three bay leaves, and six cloves ; a gill of
Spanish sauce or brown gravy is poured over it, and
it is cooked in a moderate oven about an hour, until
it is thoroughly done. The liver should be laid on a
hot platter, while half a pint of Spanish sauce or gravy
is stirred among the vegetables it was cooked with,
and then strained over it. If served hot it is a most
delicious and economical dish, being nearly as satis-
factory to appetite as a heavy joint of roast meat,
54. Blanquette of Veal. Cut three pounds
of the breast of veal in pieces two inches square,
put them in enough cold water to cover them, with
one saltspoonful of white pepper, one teaspoon-
ful of salt, a bouquet of sweet herbs, made as
52 THE COOKING MANUAL.
directed in Chapter first, and an onion stuck with
three cloves ; bring slowly to a boil, skim carefully
until no more scum rises, and cook gently for thirty
or forty minutes until the veal is tender ; then drain
it, returning the broth to the fire, and washing the
meat in cold water ; meantime make a white sauce by
stirring together over the fire one ounce of butter and
one ounce of flour, until they are smooth, then adding
a pint and a half of the broth gradually, season with
a little more salt and pepper if they are required, and
with quarter of a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg ; when
the sauce has boiled up well, stir into it with an
egg-whip the yolks of two raw eggs, put in the meat,
and cook for five minutes, stirring occasionally ; a
few mushrooms are a great improvement to the
blanquette ; or it may be served with two tablespoon-
fuls of chopped parsley sprinkled over it after it is put
on a hot platter.
55. Stuffed breast of Veal. Have the
butcher make what is called a pocket in a three pound
breast of veal, by cutting the flesh of the upper side
free from the breast bones, taking care to leave three
outer sides of the meat whole, so as to hold the stuff-
ing ; prepare a bed of vegetables, herbs, and pork,
as directed for liver, in receipt No. 53 ; stuff the
breast, sew it up, lay it on the vegetables, put four
ounces of salt pork cut in thin slices on the top, sea-
son it with a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a salt-
spoonful of pepper, and bake it in a moderate oven
about one hour, till thoroughly done ; serve it with a
SIDE DISHES, OR ENTXEES. 53
brown gravy made the same as the liver gravy in
receipt No. 53.
56. Stuffing for Veal. Steep four ounces of
bread in tepid water ; chop one ounce of onion, and
fry it yellow in one ounce of butter ; wring the bread
dry in a towel and add it to the butter and onion ;
season with one saltspoonful of salt, quarter of a salt-
spoonful each of pepper and powdered thyme, or mixed
spices, and stir till scalding hot, then remove from
the fire, stir in the yolk of one raw egg, and stuff the
breast of veal with it. This is a very good stuffing
for poultry, or lamb.
57. Broiled Pork Cutlets. Make a Robert
sauce, according to directions given below. Broil
two pounds of cutlets from the neck of pork, being
careful not to burn them, and dish them in a wreath
on a hot platter with Robert sauce poured on the
dish.
58. Robert Sauce. Chop two ouoces of onion,
fry pale yellow with one ounce of butter, add two ta-
blespoonfuls of spiced vinegar, and reduce one half
by quick boiling ; add half a pint of Spanish sauce,
or brown gravy, and boil slowly for fifteen minutes ;
then season with a saltspoonful of salt, quarter of a
saltspoonful of pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of French
mustard, and serve.
59. Pork Chops with Curry. First boil a
quarter of a pound of rice according to receipt No.
60. Fry two pounds of pork chops cut from the loin,
brown in a very little butter, pour off all the grease,
add to them half a pint of Spanish sauce, and a table-
54 THE COOKING MANUAL.
spoonful of curry powder mixed smooth with two
tablespoonfuls of cold water; cover the sauce-pan, and
simmer the chops for fifteen minutes ; then dish them
in a wreath on a hot platter, pour the sauce on the
bottom of the dish, and fill the centre with rice.
60. Boiled Rice. Wash a quarter of a pound
of rice in plenty of cold water, put it into a quart of
boiling water with a tablespoonful of salt, and boil it
fast for twenty minutes ; shake it out into a colander,
drain it, and shake it from the colander into the cen-
tre of the dish of chops ; do not stir it with a spoon.
6 1. Broiled Pigs' Feet. Boil four well
cleaned pickled pigs' feet in stock or boiling water
with sweet herbs, until they are tender enough to
permit the bones to come out readily ; split them in
halves, take out all the large bones ; trim and shape
them neatly, and cool them when cold season them
with pepper and salt, dip them first in melted butter
and then in cracker dust, and broil them over a clear,
moderate fire, turning them frequently ; serve with a
little melted butter, lemon juice, and chopped parsley
over them.
62. English Pork Pie. Make a plain pie-
crust by mixing together with the hand, half a pound
of flour and quarter of a pound of butter, with enough
cold water to make a stiff paste ; roll out about six
times on a well floured pastry board, folding the paste
evenly each time ; line the side of an earthen pie dish
nearly to the bottom ; in the bottom put a thin layer
of bacon, about four ounces sliced ; pare and slice
half a quart of potatoes ; chop two ounces of onion ;
SIDE DISHES, OR ENTRIES, 55
cut two pounds of fresh lean pork in two-inch pieces ;
lay all these in the dish in layers, season with half a
saltspoonful of pepper and the same quantity of pow-
dered sage ; fill the dish with any good cold gravy,
cover with crust, wetting the edges to make them fit
tight ; ornament the surface according to your fancy,
with leaves and fancy shapes cut out of the pastry ;
brush over with a raw egg beaten with a tablespoonful
of water ; bake in a moderate oven fifteen minutes \
cover the top with paper, and bake one hour longer ;
serve hot, or cold, as desired.
63. Fried Chicken, Spanish Style. Cut up
a four pound chicken as for a fricassee ', sprinkle the
pieces with salt, and Spanish red pepper ; put four
ounces of lard in a frying pan on the fire, and when
smoking hot, put in the legs, back, thighs, and wings ;
when they are half done, add the pieces of breast, two
ounces of chopped onion, one clove of garlic chopped,
a bouquet of sweet herbs, made as directed in Chapter
first, and fry seven minutes ; add half a pound of raw
ham cut in half inch dice, and fry till the chicken is
tender ; take it out and keep it hot, while you fry four
large tomatoes cut in dice, and seasoned with salt and
pepper to taste ; then add the chicken, make it quite
hot, and serve all together on a platter, like a fricassee.
64. Chicken Fricassee. Cut a four pound
tender chicken in joints, put it over the fire in enough
cold water to cover it, with one dessertspoonful of salt,
half a saltspoonful of pepper, a bouquet of sweet herbs,
made as directed in Chapter first, two ounces of car-
rot, pared and left whole, and one dozen button onions
56 THE COOKING MANUAL.
peeled ; skim frequently as often as any scum rises,
simmer slowly until the chicken is tender, about an
hour, and then take it up to keep hot while the sauce
is made ; strain out the vegetables, and set the broth
to boil ; mix one ounce of butter and one ounce of
flour together over the fire until they become a smooth
paste ; then gradually add a pint and a half of the
broth, stirring the sauce with an egg-whip until it is
quite smooth, season it to taste with salt and pepper,
and dish it on a hot platter ; half a can of mushrooms
greatly improve the flavor of \b% fricassee.
65. Grilled Fowl. Cut the legs and second
joints from two cold roast fowls ; score them closely,
season them with pepper and salt, and lay them by,
ready to broil. Mince the rest of the meat fine.
Make a white sauce by mixing together over the fire
two ounces of butter and two of flour until they form
a smooth paste ; gradually add enough boiling milk
to make a good thick sauce, season with half a tea-
spoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of white
pepper, and the same quantity of grated nutmeg ; add
the minced fowl, and heat ; now broil the legs and
thighs, and after dishing the mince on a hot platter,
lay them on it, and serve hot.
66. Minced Chicken with Macaroni. Put
four ounces of macaroni to blanch as directed in receipt
No. 67. Cut two pounds of cold roast fowl in small
slices, or scallops ; and heat them in a white sauce,
as directed in receipt No. 65 : dish them in a border
of macaroni, and serve hot.
67. Macaroni with Cheese. Blanch four
SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 57
ounces of macaroni by putting it to boil in two quarts
of boiling water and a tablespoonful of salt ; boil it
until it is tender enough to pierce with the finger nail,
drain it in a colander, wash it well in cold water, and let
it remain in water while you prepare a white sauce of
one ounce of butter, one of flour, and boiling milk, as
directed in receipt No. 65 : put the macaroni into it
with two ounces of grated cheese, Parmesan is the
best ; heat it thoroughly ; dish it in a border around
the minced fowl, which should be piled in the middle
of the dish.
68. Broiled Pigeons. Carefully pluck and
draw eight pigeons, split them down the middle of the
back, flatten them by pounding them with the blade
of a heavy knife, broil them on a greased gridiron, the
inside first ; lay each one on a slice of buttered toast,
and dress them with a little maitre d" 1 hotel butter,
made according to receipt No. 16.
69. Salmi of Duck. Cut two cold roast wild
ducks in joints ; put them into a sauce-pan with
enough Spanish sauce to cover them, and add two
dozen olives with the stones removed ; season to taste
with salt and pepper, being guided in this by the
seasoning of the Spanish sauce ; heat thoroughly ;
meantime cut a dozen heart shaped croutons, or slices
of bread about two inches long and one wide, and fry
them brown in plenty of hot fat ; when the salmi is
hot, pour it on a hot dish, and arrange the croutons
around the border ; serve hot.
70. Civet of Hare. Skin a pair of leverets, or
young hares, carefully wipe them outside with a damp
3*
58 THE COOKING MANUAL.
cloth ; remove the entrails, and wash the interior with
a cup of vinegar, which must be saved ; cut them into
joints as you would divide a chicken fa fricassee ; cut
the back and loins in pieces about two inches square ;
peel two dozen button onions, and fry them light
brown in two ounces of butter, with half a pound of
lean ham cut in half inch dice ; add the hare, and
brown well ; stir in two ounces of dry flour, add three
gills of broth, and one gill of the vinegar used to wash
the hare, or two gills of claret, season with one tea-
spoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of ground cloves, and
half a saltspoonful of pepper ; simmer gently about one
hour, until the hare is tender, and serve on a hot
platter like chicken fricassee.
. 71. Jugged Hare. Prepare two hares as for a
civet, in receipt No. 70; in the cup of vinegar and
half a pint of Spanish sauce, (or in their place one pint
of claret,) put the yellow rind of one lemon, a bouquet
of sweet herbs, prepared as in Chapter first, eight
cloves, two blades of mace, two inches of stick cinna-
mon, eight allspice, one ounce of onion whole, one
ounce of carrot whole ; boil all these together half an
hour when you are preparing the hare, as in receipt
No. 70 lay the browned pieces of hare in an earthen
jar ; season them a little with a teaspoonful of salt,
and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper ; strain the
gravy made as above into the jar ; put on the cover ;
fasten it in place with a paste made of flour and water,
and oiled on the top to prevent cracking. Bake the
hare in a moderate oven three hours. When you are
nearly ready to dish it, cut a slice of bread two inches
SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 59
thick , the entire side of a large loaf, trim it to a
perfect oval, fry it light brown in hot fat, put it on a
platter, arrange the hare on it, and pour the gravy
over ; serve hot.
72. Stuffed Eggs. Boil eight eggs for ten min-
utes, until quite hard, lay them in cold water until
they are quite cold ; make a white sauce, as directed
in receipt No. 65 ; soak two ounces of stale bread in
tepid water for five minutes, and wring it dry in a
towel ; put one ounce of grated cheese, Parmesan is
the best, in a sauce-pan with one saltspoonful of salt,
half that quantity of white pepper, as much cayenne
as can be taken up on the point of a very small pen-
knife blade, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, two ounces
of butter, and a gill of the white sauce ; cut the eggs
carefully in halves lengthwise after removing the shells,
rub the yolks through a sieve with a silver spoon, and
add them with the bread to the sauce, as prepared
above ; stir these ingredients over the fire until they
cleave from the sides of the sauce-pan, when they will
be scalding hot ; on a hot platter put a layer of the
white sauce as a foundation for the eggs ; fill the
whites with the forcemeat, rounding it up to look like
the entire yolk of an egg, set them on a dish in a
pyramid, and heat them in a moderate oven ; send
whatever white sauce you have left to the table in a
boat, with the dish of eggs.
When, after preparing the eggs for the oven, they
are sprinkled with grated cheese, and cracker dust, and
then browned, they are called gratinated eggs, or stuffed
eggs, au gratin, and are served without any sauce.
60 THE COOKING MANUAL.
73. How to make Omelettes. There is no
great difficulty in making omelettes, and as they may
be expeditiously prepared and served they are a con-
venient resource when an extra dish is required at
short notice ; care should be taken to beat the eggs
only until they are light, to put the omelette into a
well heated and buttered pan, and never to turn it in
the pan, as this flattens and toughens it; if the pan be
large, and only three or four.eggs be used in making
the omelette, the pan should be tipped and held by
the handle so that the eggs will cook in a small space
upon one side of it ; instead of spreading ail over it,
and becoming too dry in the process of cooking.
There are three secrets in the making of a good
omelette, namely, the separate beating of the eggs, the
knack of stirring it upon the fire, and the method of
transferring it from the fire to the table. If you will
carefully follow the directions here given, you can pro-
duce a dish dainty enough to satisfy the most fastidi-
ous eater.
74. Plain Omelette. If you have to serve
eight persons, make three omelettes as follows:
Put one half an ounce (about a tablespoonful) of
butter into a clean, smooth frying-pan, and set it upon
the back of the stove to melt ; stir the yolks of three
eggs with a saltspoonful of salt for one minute ; beat
the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth with an egg-
whip, beginning slowly, and gradually increasing the
speed until the froth will not leave the dish if it be
turned bottom up ; this will take from three to
five minutes, according to the freshness of the eggs ;
SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 6 1
now pour the yolks into the froth, and mix them gently
with a silver spoon, turning the bowl of the spoon
over and over, but do not stir in a circle, or rapidly ;
put the frying-pan containing the melted butter over
the fire, pour in the omelette, and stir it with a large
two-pronged fork (a carving fork will do), carefully
raising the edges with the fork as fast as they cook,
and turning them toward the centre, until the omelette
lies in the middle of the pan in a light mass, cooked
soft or hard to suit the taste ; when done to the de-
sired degree, turn it out upon a hot dish without touch-
ing it with either fork or spoon, and send it to the table
immediately. Another excellent method is to beat
three eggs, without separating the whites and yolks,
with one tablespoonful of milk, and a little salt and
pepper, and put them into a frying-pan containing two
ounces of butter browned ; let the omelette stand for
a moment, and then turn the edges up gently with a
fork, and shake the pan to prevent it burning or stick-
ing at the bottom ; five minutes will fry it a delicate
brown, and it should then be doubled and sent to the
table at once on a hot dish. Three eggs will make an
omelette large enough for two persons, if any other
dish is to be served with it. There are several varie-
ties of omelettes, each named after the ingredient
prominent in the composition. We subjoin some ex-
cellent receipts, which may be based upon the first-
mentioned method of preparation and cooking.
75. Omelette with Herbs. Stir into the
yolks of three eggs a saltspoonful of salt, half a tea-
spoonful of chopped parsley, one tablespoonful of
62 THE COOKING MANUAL.
chopped mushrooms, and one tablespoonful of shallot
or white onion ; beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff
froth, add them to the yolks, and cook as in the first
receipt.
76. Omelette with Ham, Tongue, or
Cheese. Use chopped or grated ham, or tongue,
or cheese, in the proportion of one tablespoonful to
one egg ; proceed to mix and cook in the same way
as for omelette with herbs.
77. Omelette with Oysters. Blanch one
dozen small Blue Point oysters, by bringing them just
to a boil in their own liquor, seasoned with a dust of
cayenne, a saltspoonful of salt, and a grate of nut-
meg ; mix an omelette as above, omitting the herbs,
place it over the fire, and when it begins to cook at
the edges, place the oysters, without any liquor, in its
centre, and fold and serve it in the same manner as
the omelette with herbs.
78. Omelette with Mushrooms. Choose a
dozen small, even sized mushrooms ; if they are can-
ned, simply warm them in the essence in which they
are preserved, and if they are fresh, peel them by
dipping them, held by the stem, into boiling water for
one moment, and heat them over the fire with half an
ounce of butter and half a saltspoonful of salt put over
them ; prepare the omelette as above, and as soon as
the edges begin to cook, place the mushrooms in the
centre, and fold^nd serve like the omelette with herbs.
79. Spanish Omelette. Peel two large ripe
tomatoes, cut them in thin slices, put them into a fry-
ing pan with an ounce of butter, a saltspoonful of salt,
SIDE DISHES, OR ENTRIES. 63
and a dust of pepper, and toss them to prevent burn-
ing, until they are just cooked through ; make an ome-
lette as above, and as soon as its edges are cooked
put in the tomatoes, and fold and serve the same as
the omelette with herbs.
80. Oriental Omelette. Heat a thick earthen
plate over a charcoal or wood fire, until it will melt
butter enough to cover the bottom of it, dust on the
butter a little pepper, and sprinkle on a little salt ;
break into it as many eggs as will lay upon it without
crowding, and brown them underneath ; then set them
where the heat of the fire will strike their tops, and let
them color a pale yellow ; salt them a little, and serve
them very hot upon the same dish upon which they
were cooked.
8 1. Omelette with Preserves. Prepare an
omelette as directed in receipt No. 77, substituting any
kind of jelly or preserves for the oysters.
82. How to Cook Macaroni. This is one
of the most wholesome and economical of foods, and
can be varied so as to give a succession of palatable
dishes at a very small cost. The imported macaroni
can be bought at Italian stores for about fifteen cents a
pound ; and that quantity when boiled yields nearly
three times its bulk, if it has been manufactured for any
length of time. In cooking it is generally combined
with meat gravy, tomato sauce, and cheese ; Gruyere
and Parmesan cheese, which are the kinds most used
by foreign cooks, can be readily obtained at any large
grocery, the price of the former being about thirty-five
cents per pound, and the latter varying from forty to
64 THE COOKING MANUAL.
eighty cents, according to the commercial spirit of the
vendor ; the trade price quoted on grocers' trade lists
being thirty-eight cents per pound, for prime quality.
This cheese is of a greenish color, a little salt in taste
and flavored with delicate herbs ; the nearest domestic
variety is sage-cheese, which may be used when Par-
mesan can not be obtained. If in heating Parmesan
cheese it appears oily, it is from the lack of moisture,
and this can be supplied by adding a few tablespoon-
fuls of broth, and stirring it over the fire for a minute.
When more macaroni has been boiled than is used, it
can be kept perfectly good by laying it in fresh water,
which must be changed every day. There are several
forms of Italian paste, but the composition is almost
identical, all being made from the interior part of the
finest wheat grown on the Mediterranean shores : the
largest tubes, about the size of a lead pencil, are
called macaroni ; the second variety, as large as a
common pipe-stem, is termed mazzini ; and the small-
est is spaghetti, or threads ; vermicelli comes to market
in the form of small coils or hanks of fine yellowish
threads; and Italian paste appears in small letters,
and various fanciful shapes. Macaroni is generally
known as a rather luxurious dish among the wealthy ;
but it should become one of the chief foods of the
people, for it contains more gluten, or the nutritious
portion of wheat, than bread.
83. Macaroni with Bechamel Sauce.
Heat three quarts of water, containing three tablespoon-
fuls of salt, to the boiling point ; boil half a pound of
macaroni in it until it is tender enough to pierce easily
SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 65
with the finger nail; then drain it in a colander, and
wash it well in cold water ; while it is boiling make a
Bechamel, or white sauce, as in receipt No. 84 : put
just enough of it with the macaroni to moisten it, heat
it thoroughly ; shake it up well with two forks to make
the cheese fibrous, put it on a hot dish, sprinkle with
half an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, and serve
it hot.
84. Bechamel Sauce, with Parmesan
Cheese. Stir together over the fire two ounces of
butter, and two ounces of flour, until they are perfectly
blended, boiling one pint of milk meantime ; when the
butter and flour are smooth, pour the boiling milk into
them, stir in two ounces of grated Parmesan gradually
and melt it thoroughly, stirring constantly until the
sauce is smooth; if cream is used instead of milk, and
the Parmesan cheese omitted, the same is called Cream
Buchamel.
85. Macaroni Milanaise style. Have ready
some tomato sauce, made according to receipt No. 52,
or use some fresh tomatoes passed through a sieve
with a wooden spoon, and highly seasoned ; and two
ounces of grated Parmesan cheese ; put half a pound
of imported Italian macaroni in three quarts of boiling
water, with two tablespoonfuls of salt, one saltspoon-
ful of pepper in coarse pieces, called mignonette pep-
per, and a teaspoonful of butter ; boil rapidly for
about twenty minutes, or until you can easily pierce
it with the finger nail, then drain it in a colander, run
plenty of cold water from the faucet through it, and lay
it in a pan of cold water until you are ready to use it.
66 THE COOKING MANUAL.
Put into a sauce-pan one gill of. tomato sauce, one
ounce of butter, and one gill of Spanish sauce, or any
rich meat gravy free from fat, and stir until they are
smoothly blended : put a half inch layer of macaroni
on the bottom of a dish, moisten it with four table-
spoonfuls of the sauce, sprinkle over it half an ounce
of the grated cheese; make three other layers like
this, using all the macaroni, cheese, and sauce, and
brown the macaroni in a hot oven for about five min-
utes ; serve it hot.
86. Macaroni with Tomato Sauce. Boil
half a pound of spaghetti or macaroni as directed in
receipt No. 83, and lay it in cold water. Make a
tomato sauce as follows, and dress the macaroni with
it, using only enough to moisten it, and sprinkling the
top with half an ounce of grated cheese ; serve it hot.
87. Tomato Sauce. Boil together, for pne
hour, half a can of tomatoes, or six large, fresh ones,
one gill of broth of any kind, one sprig of thyme, one
sprig of parsley, three whole cloves, three peppercorns,
and half an ounce of onion sliced ; rub them through
a sieve with a wooden spoon, and set the sauce to
keep hot ; mix together over the fire one ounce of
butter, and half an ounce of flour, and when smooth,
incorporate with the tomato sauce.
88. Timbale of Macaroni. (A sweet dish)
Boil half a pound of macaroni of the largest size, in
boiling water and salt for fifteen minutes ; drain it in
a colander, wash it well, lay by one quarter of it, and
put the rest into a sauce-pan with one ounce of butter,
one pint of milk or cream, four ounces of sugar, one
SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 67
teaspoonful of vanilla flavoring, and a saltspoonful of
salt ; simmer it gently while you line a well buttered
three pint plain mould with the best pieces you have
reserved, coiling them regularly in the bottom and up
the sides of the mould ; put what you do not use
among that in the sauce-pan, and as soon as it is
tender fill the mould with it, and set it in a hot oven
for fifteen minutes ; then turn it out on a dish, dust it
with powdered sugar, and serve it hot, with a pudding
sauce.
89. Vanilla Cream Sauce. Put three ounces
of powdered sugar into a sauce-pan with one ounce
of corn starch, and one gill of cold water ; mix them
smooth off the fire ; then put the sauce-pan on the
fire and pour in half a pint of boiling milk, stirring
smooth with an egg-whip for about ten minutes, when
the sauce will be thoroughly cooked ; flavor it with
one teaspoonful of vanilla, and serve with pudding
at once.
CHAPTER VI.
LARGE ROASTS.
SINCE roast or rather baked meats so often play
the chief part in American dinners, a few directions
will be useful in connection with their cooking. The
object in cooking meat is to prepare it for easy masti-
cation and complete digestion ; and it should be ac-
complished with the least possible waste of the valu-
able juices of the meat. The roasting of meat before
the fire is not often possible in ordinary kitchens, but
with a well managed oven the same result can be at-
tained. If meat is placed before a slow fire, or in a
cool oven, the little heat that reaches it serves only to
draw out its juices, and with them its nutritious ele-
ments. The albumen of its cut surfaces coagulates at
the temperature of a bright, clear fire, or a hot oven,
and thus seals up the juices so that only a part of
them escape, and those are collected in the form of a
rich brown, highly flavored crust, upon the surface of
well roasted meat. A good temperature for baking
meat is from 320 to 400 Fahr. If the meat is put
into a very hot oven for a few moments to harden the
outside, the heat can subsequently be moderated, and
the cooking finished more slowly, so that the meat
will be sufficiently well done, but not burned. Meats
LARGE ROASTS. 69
should be roasted about twenty minutes to a pound,
to be moderately well done ; the fire should be clear,
and steady, in order that an equal heat may reach the
joint and keep its interior steam at the proper degree
of heat ; after the right length of time has elapsed,
care being taken meantime that the meat does not
burn, it may be tested by pressing it with the fingers ;
if it is rare it will spring back when the pressure is
removed ; if it is moderately well done the resistance
to pressure will be very slight ; and if it is thoroughly
cooked it will remain heavy under the fingers ; never
test it by cutting into it with a knife, or puncturing
it with a fork, for in this way you waste the rich juices.
If you wish to froth roast meat, dredge a little flour
over its surface, and brown it a few moments before
serving it. If it is to be glazed, brush it with clear
stock concentrated to a paste by rapid boiling, or dust
a little powdered sugar over it, and in both cases
return it to the oven to set the glaze.
90. Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding.
Have three ribs of prime beef prepared by the
butcher for roasting, all the bones being taken out if
it is desirable to carve a clean slice off the top ; secure
it in place with stout twine ; do not use skewers, as
the unnecessary holes they make permit the meat-
juices to escape ; lay it in the dripping pan on a bed
of the following vegetables, cut in small pieces ; one
small onion, half a carrot, half a turnip, three sprigs
of parsley, one sprig of thyme, and three bay leaves ;
do not put any water in the dripping pan ; its tempera-
ture can not rise to a degree equal in heat to that of
?o THE COOKING MANUAL.
the fat outside of the beef, and can not assist in its
cooking, but serves only to lower the temperature of
the meat, where it touches it, and consequently to
soften the surface and extract the juices; do not sea-
son it until the surface is partly carbonized by the heat,
as salt applied to the cut fibre draws out their juices.
If you use a roasting oven before the fire, the meat
should be similarly prepared by tying in place, and it
should be put on the spit carefully ; sufficient drippings
for basting will flow from it, and it should be seasoned
when half done ; when entirely done, which will be
in fifteen minutes to each pound of meat, the joint
should be kept hot until served, but should be served
as soon as possible to be good. When gravy is made,
half a pint of hot water should be added to the drip-
ping pan, after the vegetables have been removed, and
the gravy should be boiled briskly for a few minutes,
until it is thick enough, and seasoned to suit the palate
of the family ; some persons thicken it with a tea-
spoonful of flour, which should be mixed with two
tablespoonfuls of cold water before it is stirred into
the gravy.
91. Yorkshire Pudding. Put seven ounces
of flour into a bowl with one teaspoonful of salt ; mix
it smoothly with enough milk, say half a pint, to make
a smooth, stiff batter ; then gradually add enough
more milk to amount in all to one pint and a half, and
three eggs well beaten ; mix it thoroughly with an
egg-whip, pour it into a well buttered baking pan,
bake it in the oven one hour and a half, if it is to be
served with baked beef ; or if it is to accompany beef
LARGE ROASTS. 71
roasted before the fire, one hour in the oven, and then
half an hour under the meat on the spit, to catch the
gravy which flows from the joint. To serve it cut it
into pieces two or three inches square before taking it
from the pan, and send it to the table on a hot dish
covered with a napkin, with the roast beef.
92. Roast Loin of Veal. Take out the chine,
or back-bone, from a loin of veal weighing about six
pounds, being careful to leave the piece of meat as
whole as possible ; chop up the bones and put them in
a dripping pan with two ounces of carrot, one ounce
of turnip, and quarter of an ounce of parsley ; stuff
the veal with a forcemeat made as in receipt No. 93,
roll it up neatly, tie it firmly with stout cord, lay it
on the vegetables in the pan, and roast it one hour
and a half. When done take it from the pan, and
keep it hot while you prepare the gravy by putting
half a pint of hot water in the pan, boiling it up once,
and straining it ; or if desirable thicken it with a tea-
spoonful of flour smoothly dissolved in two table-
spoonfuls of cold water and stirred with the gravy.
93. Stuffing for Veal. Cut two ounces of salt
pork in quarter inch dice, and fry it brown in half an
ounce of butter, with one ounce of chopped onion ;
while these ingredients are frying, soak eight ounces
of stale bread in tepid water, and then wring it dry in
a napkin ; add it to the onion when it is brown, with
one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, half a salt-
spoonful of powdered thyme, and the same quantity
of dried and powdered celery, and white pepper,
and one teaspoonful of salt ; mix all these over the
72 THE COOKING MANUAL.
fire until they are scalding hot, and cleave from the
pan ; then stir in one raw egg, and use it with the veal.
94. Roast Lamb with Mint Sauce. Choose
a plump, fat fore-quarter of lamb, which is quite as
finely flavored and less expensive than the hind-
quarter ; secure it in shape with stout cord, lay it in a
dripping pan with one sprig of parsley, three sprigs of
mint, and one ounce of carrot sliced ; put it into a
quick oven, and roast it fifteen minutes to each
pound ; when half done season it with salt and pepper,
and baste it occasionally with the drippings flowing
from it. When done serve it with a gravy-boat full
of mint sauce.
95. Mint Sauce cold. Melt four ounces of
brown sugar in a sauce boat with half a pint of vine-
gar, add three tablespoonfuls of chopped mint, and
serve cold with roast lamb.
96. Hot Mint Sauce. Put one pint of vinegar
into a sauce-pan with four ounces of white sugar, and
reduce by rapid boiling to half a pint, stirring to pre-
vent burning ; add a gill of cold water, and boil for
five minutes ; then add three tablespoonfuls of chop-
ped mint, and serve with lamb.
97. Roast Pork with Apple Sauce. Neat-
ly trim a loin of fresh pork weighing about six pounds;
put it into a dripping pan on three bay leaves, quar-
ter of an ounce of parsley, one ounce of onion, and
the same quantity of carrot sliced, and roast it about
twenty minutes to each pound ; when half done, season
it with salt and pepper ; when brown, serve it with a
border of Parisian potatoes, prepared according to re-
LARGE ROASTS. 73
ceipt No. 2, and send it to the table with a bowl of
apple sauce.
98. Apple Sauce. Pare and slice one quart of
good tart apples ; put them into a sauce-pan with half
a pint of cold water ; stir them often enough to pre-
vent burning, and simmer them until tender, about
twenty minutes will be long enough ; then rub them
through a sieve with a wooden spoon, add a saltspoon-
ful of powdered cloves, and four ounces of sugar, or
less according to the taste ; serve in a bowl, with the
roast pork.
99. Roast Turkey with Cranberry
Sauce. Choose a fat tender turkey weighing about
six or seven pounds ; pluck it, carefully remove the
pin-feathers, singe the bird over the flame of an alco-
hol lamp, or a few drops of alcohol poured on a plate
and lighted ; wipe it with a damp towel and see that
it is properly drawn by slitting the skin at the back of
the neck, and taking out the crop without tearing the
skin of the breast ; loosen the heart, liver, and lungs,
by introducing the fore-finger at the neck, and then
draw them, with the entrails, from the vent. Un-
'less you have broken the gall, or the entrails, in draw-
ing the bird do not wash it, for this greatly impairs the
flavor, and partly destroys the nourishing qualities of
the flesh. Twist the tips of the wings back under the
shoulders, stuff the bird with forcemeat made accord-
ing to receipt No. 100 ; bend the legs as far up to-
ward the breast as possible, secure the thigh bones in
that position by a trussing cord or skewer ; then bring
the legs down, and fasten them close to the vent.
74 THE COOKING MANUAL.
Pound the breast bone down, first laying a towel over
it. Lay a thin slice of salt pork over the breast to
baste it until sufficient drippings run from the bird ;
baste it frequently, browning-it on all sides by turning
it about in the pan ; use a clean towel to turn it with,
but do not run a fork into it or you will waste its juices :
when it is half done season it with two teaspoonfuls of
salt and one saltspoonful of powdered herbs, made
according to directions in Chapter first ; when it has
cooked about twenty minutes to each pound, dish it,
and keep it hot while you make a gravy by adding
half a pint of water to the drippings in the pan, first
taking off a little of the superfluous fat, and thicken-
ing it if desired with a teaspoonful of flour mixed
with two tablespoonfuls of cold water ; serve the turkey
hot with a gravy-boat full of gravy and a dish of cran-
berry sauce made according to receipt No. 101. The
same directions for drawing, trussing, and roasting will
apply to other poultry and game.
100. Forcemeat for Roast Poultry. Steep
eight ounces of stale bread in tepid water for five
minutes, and wring it dry in a clean towel ; meantime
chop fine four ounces each of fresh veal and pork, or
use instead, eight ounces of good sausage meat ; grate
eight ounces of good rather dry cheese; fry one ounce
of onion in one ounce of butter to a light yellow color ;
add the bread, meat, and cheese, season with a salt-
spoonful of powdered herbs, made according to direc-
tions in Chapter first, a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoon-
ful of pepper, and two whole eggs ; mix well and use.
10 1. Cranberry Sauce. Carefully pick and
LARGE ROASTS. 75
wash one quart of cranberries ; put them over the fire
in a sauce-pan with half a pint of cold water ; bring
them to a boil, and boil them gently for fifteen min-
utes, stirring them occasionally to prevent burning ;
then add four ounces of white sugar, and boil them
slowly until they are soft enough to pass through a
sieve with a wooden spoon ; the sauce is then ready
to serve.
102. Roast Chicken with Duchesse Pota-
toes. Prepare and roast a pair of chickens as directed
in receipt No. 99 ; or for the stuffing named in that
receipt substitute No. 93 ; meantime boil one quart of
potatoes, for mashing, and make twelve heart-shaped
croutons or pieces of bread fried in hot fat : lay the
Duchesse potatoes around the chickens when it is
dished, and the croutons in an outer circle, with the
points outward.
103. Duchesse Potatoes. Mash one quart of
hot boiled potatoes through a fine colander with the
potato masher ; mix with them one ounce of butter,
one level teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of
white pepper, quarter of a saltspoonful of grated nut-
meg, and the yolks of two raw eggs ; pour the potato
out on a plate, and then form it with a knife into small
cakes, two inches long and one inch wide ; lay them
on a buttered tin, brush them over the top with an egg
beaten up with a teaspoonful of cold water, and color
them golden brown in a moderate oven.
104. Roast Duck with Watercresses.
Prepare and roast a pair of ducks as directed in receipt
No. 99, and serve them with a border of a few water-
7 6 THE COOKING MANUAL.
cresses, and a salad bowl containing the rest of a
quart, prepared as in receipt No. 105.
105. Romaine Sauce for Watercresses.
Grate half an ounce of onion, and use two tablespoon-
fuls of vinegar to wash it off the grater ; to these add a
saltspoonful of sugar, a tablespoon ful of lemon juice,
three tablespoonfuls of olive oil, six capers chopped
fine, as much cayenne as can betaken up on the point
of a very small pen-knife blade, a level saltspoonful of
salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper ; mix well,
and use for dressing watercresses, or any other green
salad. A few cold boiled pototoes sliced and mixed
with this dressing, and a head of lettuce, makes a
very nice potato salad.
1 06. Roast Goose with Onion Sauce.
Prepare a goose as directed in receipt No. 99 ; stuff it
with onion stuffing made according to receipt No.
107 ; serve it with a gravy boat full of onion sauce
made according to receipt No. 108.
107. Sage and Onion Stuffing. Pare six
ounces of onion, and bring them to a boil in three
different waters ; soak eight ounces of stale bread in
tepid water, and wring it dry in a towel ; scald ten
sage leaves ; when the onions are tender, which will
be in about half an hour, chop them with the sage
leaves, add them to the bread, with one ounce of but-
ter, the yolks of two raw eggs, one level teaspoonful
of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper; mix and
use.
108. Onion Sauce. Prepare six ounces of onions
as in receipt No. 107 ; chop them fine, pass them
LARGE ROASTS. 77
through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and put them
into half a pint of boiling milk, with one ounce of but-
ter, one saltspoonful of salt, and one quarter of a
saltspoonful of pepper.
109. Roast Wild Duck. Prepare a pair of
ducks as directed in receipt No. 99 ; do not stuff
them, but tie over the breasts slices of pork or bacon ;
roast fifteen minutes to the pound ; serve with gravy
in a boat and quarters of lemon on the same dish.
no. Roast Partridge. Prepare a pair of par-
tridges as in receipt No. 99, but do not stuff them ;
tie over the breasts slices of pork or bacon, and roast
about twenty-five minutes ; serve with bread sauce.
in. Bread Sauce. Peel and slice an onion
weighing full an ounce, simmer it half an hour in one
pint of milk, strain it, and to the milk add two ounces
of stale bread, broken in small pieces, one ounce of
butter, one saltspoonful of salt, and quarter of a salt-
spoonful of nutmeg and pepper mixed ; strain, passing
through a sieve with a spoon, and serve hot.
CHAPTER VII.
BOILED DISHES.
BOILING is the most economical way of cooking, if
properly done ; there are several important points to
be considered in this connection. We have already
said that the best method of cooking meat is that
which preserves all its nourishing juices ; if in addition
to this we can prepare it in such a way as to present
a large available surface to the action of the digestive
juices, we would seem to have reached culinary per-
fection. Judicious boiling accomplishes this : and we
cannot do better than to follow Liebig's plan to first
plunge the meat into boiling water, and boil it five
minutes to coagulate the albumen to a sufficient
depth to form a crust upon the surface, and thus con-
fine the juices, and then add enough cold water to
reduce the temperature to 158 Fahr., if the meat is
to be rare, or to 165 Fahr., if it is to be well done ;
and to maintain this gentle heat until the meat is
tender. There is comparatively little waste in boil-
ing, from the fact that fat melts less quickly than in
broiling or roasting, and the covering of the pot re-
tards evaporation, while the water absorbed by the
meat adds to its bulk to a certain extent without de-
tracting from its quality. A strainer or plate should
BOILED DISHES. 79
be placed in the bottom of the pot to prevent burn-
ing ; the pot should be skimmed clear as soon as it
boils, and the subsequent simmering should^be gentle
and steady ; there should always be sufficient water to
cover the meat in order to keep it plump. Less body
of heat is required to boil in copper or iron pots, than
in those made of tin, especially if the latter have pol-
ished surfaces which throw off the heat. The pot-
liquor from boiled meat should always be strained
into an earthen jar and left to cool ; the fat can then
be taken off for kitchen use, and the liquor utilized as
the basis for some kind of soup.
112. Leg of Mutton with Caper Sauce.
Put a leg of mutton, weighing about six pounds, on
the fire in enough boiling hot water to cover it ; boil
it for five minutes, skimming it as often as any scum
rises, then pour in enough cold water to reduce the
heat to about 160 Fahr., season with a tablespoonful
of salt, and simmer the meat at that heat until it is
tender, allowing about twenty minutes cooking to each
pound of meat ; if turnips are to be served with it as
a garnish, choose them of equal size, pare them
smoothly, and boil them with the mutton ; if the vege-
tables are cooked first take them up without break-
ing, and set them back off the fire, in a little of the
mutton stock, to keep hot. Just before dishing the
meat, make a caper sauce, as directed in receipt No.
113 ; serve the mutton on a hot dish, with the turnips
laid around it, and send the sauce in a gravy-boat to
the table with it.
113. Caper Sauce. Put one ounce of butter
8O THE COOKING MANUAL.
and one ounce of flour in a sauce-pan over the fire,
and stir until smoothly melted ; gradually pour in half
a pint of .boiling water, season with one teaspoonful
of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper,
and stir until the sauce coats the spoon when you lift
it out ; take it from the fire, and stir in two ounces of
butter, and two tablespoonfuls of small capers, and
serve at once. Do not permit the sauce to boil after
you have added the butter, as it may turn rancid.
114. Boiled Ham with Madeira Sauce.
Choose a ham by running a thin bladed knife close to
the bone, and if the odor which follows the cut is sweet
the ham is good ; soak it in cold water for twenty-four
hours, changing the water once ; scrape it well, and
trim off any ragged parts ; put it in enough cold water
to cover it, with an onion weighing about one ounce,
stuck with six cloves, and a bouquet made according
to directions in Chapter first, and boil it four hours.
Take it from the fire and let it cool in the pot-liquor.
Then take it up carefully, remove the skin, dust it
with sifted bread or cracker crumbs, and brown it in
the oven. Serve it either hot or cold ; if hot send it
to the table with a gravy boat full of Madeira sauce.
115. Madeira Sauce. Put over the fire in a
thick sauce-pan one pint of Spanish sauce made ac-
cording to receipt No. 44, or the same quantity of any
rich brown gravy, season with salt and pepper to taste ;
the seasoning must depend on the flavor of the gravy ;
when scalding hot add half a pint of Madeira wine,
and stir till the sauce is thick enough to coat the
spoon ; then strain through a fine sieve, and serve hot.
BOILED DISHES. 8 1
ii 6. Beef a la Mode Jardiniere. Daube a
seven pound piece of round of beef, by inserting, with
the grain, pieces of larding pork, cut as long as the
meat is thick, and about half an inch square, setting
the strips of pork about two inches apart ; this can be
done either with a large larding needle, called a sonde,
or by first making a hole with the carving-knife steel,
and then thrusting the pork in with the ringers ; lay
the beef in a deep bowl containing the marinade, or
pickle, given in receipt No. 117, and let it stand from
two to ten days in a cool place, turning it over every day.
Then put it into a deep pot just large enough to hold
it, together with the marinade, and turn it occasionally
over the fire until it is nicely browned ; cover it with
hot stock or water, and simmer it gently four hours.
When it has been cooking three hours cut about four
ounces each of carrots and turnips in the shape of
olives ; pare two dozen button onions ; and cut one
pint of string beans in pieces one inch long ; put all
these vegetables on the fire in cold water, in separate
vessels, each containing a teaspoonful of salt, and half
a saltspoonful of sugar, and let them boil till tender ;
then lay them in cold water to keep them white, until
ready to use them. When the meat is tender, take it
up, and keep it warm ; strain the sauce in which it
has cooked, and stir it over the fire until it is thick
enough to coat the spoon ; drain the vegetables, and
let them scald up in the sauce, and pour all over the
beef.
117. Marinade. Cut in slices, four ounces each
of carrot and onion, two ounces of turnip, and one
4*
82 THE COOKING MANUAL.
ounce of leeks ; chop a quarter of an ounce each of
parsley and celery, if in season ; slice one lemon ;
add to these one level tablespoonful of salt, one salt-
spoonful of pepper, six cloves, four allspice, one inch
of stick cinnamon, two blades of mace, one gill of oil
and one of vinegar, half a pint of red wine, and one
pint of water. Mix all these ingredients thoroughly,
and use the marinade for beef, game, or poultry,
always keeping it in a cool place.
1 1 8. Boiled Fowl with Oyster Sauce.
Prepare a pair of fowls in accordance with receipt No.
99, but do not stuff them ; put them into boiling water
enough to cover them, with a level tablespoonful of
salt to each quart of water ; skim until clear, and boil
slowly until tender, about fifteen minutes to a pound ;
when nearly done, make an oyster sauce, as directed in
receipt No. 119, and serve it on the same dish with the
fowls, sprinkling them with a teaspoonful of chopped
parsley.
119. Oyster Sauce. Blanch one quart of oys-
ters by bringing them to a boil in their own liquor ;
drain them, saving the liquor; wash them in cold water,
and set them away from the fire until you are ready
to us them ; stir one ounce of butter and one ounce
of flour together over the fire until they form a smooth
paste, strain into them enough of the oyster liquor and
that the chicken was boiled in to make a sauce as
thick as melted butter ; season with a teaspoonful of
salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper, and the
same of grated nutmeg ; .put in the oysters, and serve.
CHAPTER VIII.
SALADS AND SALAD SAUCES.
" THE very herbs of the field yield nourishment,
and bread and water make a feast for a temperate
man," says Plato ; and indeed the healthfulness of
fresh vegetables is well enough known in our day ; we
include under this term not only the edible roots, but
the young shoots of succulent plants, rich in nitrates
and mineral salts, which play an important part in the
preparation of salads. Americans are beginning to
realize the wealth of green food abounding in their
gardens and fields, which they have too long abandoned
to their beasts of burden. We are wise in letting the
ox eat grass for us, but with the grass he too often
consumes tender herbs which might find a place on
our own tables, to the advantage of appetite and di-
gestion. Dandelion, corn-salad, chicory, mint, sorrel,
fennel, marshmallows, tarragon, chives, mustard, and
cresses, and their numerous kind, grow wild, or can be
cultivated with but little trouble ; and should find their
way to favor in every family, for with the oil and vine-
gar employed in dressing them, they promote digestion,
and purify the system ; while the condiments used
with them are of decided medicinal value.
There is some degree of truth in the idea that a
84 THE COOKING MANUAL.
salad-maker is born, not made, and yet with due care
and delicate manipulation, almost any deft-handed and
neat-minded individual may become an expert salad
dresser. Most careful preparation of the green vege-
tables is imperatively necessary to the production of a
good salad ; they must be freshened in cool water,
cleaned of all foreign matter, well drained upon a clean
napkin ; and, above all, torn with the ringers, and not
cut with a knife. Then the various ingredients should
be very delicately and deliberately compounded, and
withal by a quick and cunning hand, and the result will
be perfection. Below we give the receipts for a class
of salads best adapted for general use.
In the preparation of all salads only good oil should
be used, as none other will produce invariably satis-
factory results. The very best salads are often
the result of the inspiration of the moment, when
the necessity arises for substituting some ingredi-
ent near at hand for one not to be obtained, as in the
case of the shad-roe salad mentioned below. The for-
mula called for Russian caviare, but Russian caviare
was not to be had, and a cold shad-roe was ; the con-
sequence was its substitution and the alteration of one
or two other ingredients, and the result, we do not
hesitate to say, was the production of one of the most
delicious salads ever invented. Let careful house-
keepers not given to these " foreign dishes " remem-
ber that they are not only appetizing but economical.
120. Spring Salad. Break one pint of fresh
mustard tops, and one of cresses, tear one good-sized
lettuce, and chop two green onions ; place all lightly
SALADS AND SALAD SA UCRS. 85
in a dish, and ornament it with celery and slice's of
boiled beet. Use it with a cream dressing.
izi. Watercress Salad. Serve one quart of
watercresses with one chopped green onion, one tea-
spoonful of ground horseradish, one tablespoonful of
lemon juice, and two of oil, simply poured over.
122. Mint Salad. Wash and clean the tender
tops of one quart of spearmint, lay them in a bowl
with one tablespoonful of chopped chives, and dress
them with brown sugar and vinegar, or sweet sauce.
This is an excellent accompaniment for roast lamb.
123. Cauliflower Salad. Place in a salad
bowl one underdone cauliflower, broken in branches,
six small silver onions, six radishes, ornament with
the hearts of two white lettuces, and one dessert spoon-
ful each of chopped olives and capers ; dress it with
cream sauce, or plain oil and vinegar.
124. Dandelion Salad. This salad is a favorite
European dish ; one pint of the plants are carefully
washed and placed in a salad bowl with an equal
quantity of watercresses, three green onions or leeks
sliced, a teaspoonful of salt, and plenty of oil or cream
dressing. This is one of the most healthful and re-
freshing of all early salads.
125. Asparagus Salad. Cut the green tops
of two bunches of cold asparagus one inch long, mix
them with the leaves of one lettuce, a few sprigs of
mint, and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, ornament
with tufts of leaves, and serve with a Mayonnaise.
126. Shad-roe Salad. Boil two roes, separate
the grains by washing them in vinegar, place them in \
86 THE COOKING MANUAL.
a salad bowl, with one head of tender lettuce and one
pint of ripe tomatoes cut thin ; dress them with two
tablespoonfuls each of oil, lemon juice, and strained
tomato pulp, seasoned with cayenne pepper.
127. Green Pea Salad. Place one pint of cold
boiled peas in a bowl with one tablespoonful of pow-
dered sugar ; pour over them two tablespoonfuls of oil
and one of vinegar, and garnish with two cucumbers
delicately sliced. This salad is excellent with a
Mayonnaise.
128. Orange Salad. Divest four under-ripe
oranges of all rind and pith, slice them into a dish,
season with a little cayenne pepper, add the rind of one
minced, the juice of one lemon and a tablespoonful of
oil if desired ; decorate with tarragon tops.
129. Spinach Salad. Place one pint of lettuce
leaves, and one pint of tender spinach tops in a bowl
with a few fresh mint leaves, dress them with oil and
vinegar plain, and decorate them with sliced hard
boiled eggs. A ravigote sauce is excellent with this
salad.
130. Tomato Salad. Slice one quart of ripe
tomatoes, sprinkle with cayenne pepper, garnish with
chervil or fennel, and dress with oil or lemon juice
three tablespoonfuls of each.
131. Nasturtium Salad. Tear two white let-
tuces into the salad bowl, sprinkle over them one
tablespoonful of pickled nasturtiums, or capers, dress
with simple oil and vinegar, and garnish with fresh
nasturtium blossoms.
In mixing salad dressings, first, carefully stir to
SALADS AND SALAD SAUCES. 87
gether all the ingredients except the oil and vinegar,
and add these gradually and alternately a few drops
at a time.
132. Cream Dressing. Where oil is disliked
in salads the following dressing will be found excellent.
Rub the yolks of two hard boiled eggs very fine with
a spoon, incorporate with them a dessert spoonful of
mixed mustard, then stir in a tablespoonful of melted
butter, half a teacupful of thick cream, a saltspoonful
of salt, and cayenne pepper enough to take up on the
point of a very small penknife blade, and a few drops
of anchovy or Worcestershire sauce ; add very care-
fully sufficient vinegar to reduce the mixture to a
smooth creamy consistency ; and pour it upon lettuce
carefully prepared for the table.
133. English Salad Sauce. Break the yolk
of one hard boiled egg with a silver fork, add to it a
saltspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of dry mustard, a
mashed mealy potato, two dessert spoonfuls each of
cream and oil, and one tablespoonful of vinegar ; mix
until smooth and firm.
134. Remolade. Beat a fresh raw egg, add to
it a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, and three table-
spoonfuls of oil ; when smooth add just enough vine-
gar to change the color slightly.
135. Sweet Sauce. Mix well two tablespoon-
fuls of oil, the raw yolk of one egg, a saltspoonful of
salt, a half that quantity of pepper, one tablespoonful
of vinegar, and a dessertspoonful of moist sugar.
136. Piquante Salad Sauce. Mix together
the yolks of two hard boiled and two raw eggs j add
THE COOKING MANUAL.
one tablespoonful each of cream and oil ; and, when
smooth, enough Chili or tarragon vinegar to season
sharply, about two tablespoonfuls.
137. Green Remolade. One dessert spoonful
each of chopped tarragon, chives, and sorrel, pounded
in a mortar ; add a saltspoonful of salt, half that
quantity of mignonette pepper, one tablespoonful of
mixed mustard, a gill of oil, and the raw yolks of
three eggs ; when pounded quite smooth, dilute it
with a little vinegar, and strain it through a sieve.
138. Oil Sauce. Pound in a mortar one shal-
lot or two button onions, the yolks of two hard boiled
eggs, a saltspoonful of herbs, a tablespoonful of vine-
gar, and enough oil to thicken it, about one gill.
139. Ravigote Sauce. Clean and chop a
few salad herbs, put one teaspoonful of each into a
small pan with a tablespoonful of meat jelly or thick
stock, and a little pepper and salt ; stir till the jelly
is hot, and then add one tablespoonful of vinegar,
and two of good oil ; when thoroughly mixed set the
sauce-pan into a cool place, or pour out the mixture
on a dish until it is wanted for use.
140. Egg Dressing. Chop the yolks and
whites of two hard boiled eggs separately, but not
fine ; strew them upon any salad after having dressed
it with two tablespoonfuls of cream, and one of white
vinegar.
141. Anchovy Salad Sauce. Mix until
smooth two raw eggs, one teaspoonful of the essence
of anchovy, one tablespoonful of vinegar, and two of
oil.
SALADS AND SALAD SAUCES. 89
142. Swiss Dressing. Pound two ounces of
old cheese in a mortar, add one tablespoonful of
vinegar, a little salt and pepper, and dilute to the
consistency of cream with oil.
143. Spring Dressing. Beat the yolks of two
raw eggs, add a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoon-
ful of dry mustard, chop one leek or two new onions,
and mix them in, then add three tablespoonfuls of
oil and one of vinegar and mix thoroughly ; tear up
two heads of lettuce, putting thin slices of boiled
beets upon it, and pour the dressing over all.
144. Mayonnaise. Place in the bottom of a
salad bowl the yolk of one raw egg, a level teaspoon-
ful of salt, the same quantity of dry mustard, a salt-
spoonful of white pepper, as much cayenne as can
be taken up on the point of a very small pen-knife
blade, and the juice of half a lemon; mix these in-
gredients with a wooden salad spoon until they as-
sume a creamy white appearance ; then add, drop by
drop, three gills of salad oil, stirring the mayonnaise
constantly ; if it thickens too rapidly, thin it with a
little of the juice from the second half of the lemon,
until ajl is used ; and towards the finish add gradu-
ally four tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Keep
it cool until wanted for use.
145. Hot Salad Sauce. This sauce when
cold is an excellent and economical substitute for
the more expensive mayonnaise.
PART i. Put one ounce each of butter and flour
into a sauce-pan over the fire, and stir until it is
melted, add gradually half a pint of boiling water,
90 THE COOKING MANUAL.
season with a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a
saltspoonful of white pepper, stir till smooth, and set
a little away from the fire, while you make the fol-
lowing sauce.
PART 2. Put the yolk of one raw egg in a salad
bowl, add a quarter of a saltspoonful of salt, half
that quantity of grated nutmeg, as much cayenne as
you can take up on the point of a very small pen-
knife blade ; mix these ingredients with a wooden
salad spoon thoroughly, and then add, a few drops at
a time and alternately, three tablespoonfuls of oil,
and one of vinegar. Pour the preparation marked
part i, into this, gradually stirring until the sauces
are thoroughly mixed ; cool and use. This sauce
will keep for weeks in a cool place.
146. Romaine Salad Dressing. Grate half
an ounce of onion, mix it with a teaspoonful of lemon
juice, a saltspoonful each of salt and powdered sugar,
a level saltspoonful each of white pepper, and dry
mustard, then gradually add three tablespoonfuls of
oil, and one of vinegar. Use for lettuce or tomato
salad
CHAPTER IX.
VEGETABLES.
SOFT water is the best for boiling all vegetables.
Fresh vegetables boil in one-third less time than stale
ones. Green vegetables should be put into plenty of
boiling water and salt, and boiled rapidly, without
covering, only until tender enough to pierce with the
finger nail ; a bit of common washing soda, or of
carbonate of ammonia, as large as a dried pea, put
into the boiling water with any of the vegetables
except beans, counteracts any excess of mineral ele-
ments in them, and helps to preserve their color. A
lump of loaf sugar boiled with turnips neutralizes
their excessive bitterness. Cabbage, potatoes, car-
rots, turnips, parsnips, onions, and beets, are injured
by being boiled with fresh meat, and they also hurt
the color of the meat, and impair its tenderness and
flavor. When vegetables are cooked for use with
salt meat, the meat should first be cooked and taken
from the pot liquor, and the vegetables boiled in the
latter. The following table will be a guide in boil-
ing vegetables, but it must be remembered that the
youngest and freshest boil in the least time ; and that
in winter all the roots except potatoes require
nearly double the time to cook, that they would take
92 THE COOKING MANUAL.
in summer, when they are new ; spinach, ten to fif-
teen minutes ; brussels sprouts, peas, cauliflowers,
and asparagus, fifteen to twenty minutes ; potatoes,
cabbage, corn, and string-beans, twenty to thirty min-
utes ; turnips, onions, and squash, twenty to forty
minutes ; beets, carrots, and parsnips, about one
hour.
147. Asparagus -with Melted Butter.
Trim the white tough ends from two bunches of as-
paragus, tie it in packages of about a dozen stalks
each ; put them into three quarts of boiling water,
with three tablespoonfuls of salt, and boil them gen-
tly until done, about twenty minutes ; meantime
make some drawn butter according to receipt for
caper sauce, omitting the capers; fit two slices of
toast to the bottom of the dish you intend to use,
dip it for one instant in the water in which the aspar-
agus has been boiled, lay it on the dish, and arrange
the asparagus in a ring on it with the heads in the
centre ; send the butter to the table in a gravy boat,
with the dish of asparagus.
148. Green Peas. Boil two quarts of freshly
shelled peas in two quarts of boiling water with half
an ounce of butter, one bunch of green mint, and
one teaspoonful each of sugar and salt, until they
begin to sink to the bottom of the sauce-pan : drain
them in a colander, season them with a saltspoonful
of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and
send them to the table hot.
149. String Beans. These beans are generally
marketed while they are unripe, and cooked in the
VEGETABLES. 93
shell ; in that condition two quarts of them should
be stringed, split in halves, cut in pieces two inches
long, and thrown into boiling water with a table-
spoonful of salt, but no soda or ammonia should be
added, as its action discolors them ; a few sprigs of
parsley and an ounce of pork can be boiled with them
to their improvement ; when they are tender, which
will be in about half an hour, they should be drained,
and served with melted butter, made as for caper
sauce, but without the capers.
150. Baked Beets. Clean eight smooth beets
with a soft cloth or brush ; bake them in a moderate
oven about one hour; rub off the skin, baste them
with butter and lemon juice, return them to the oven
for five minutes, and serve them hot.
151. Brussels Sprouts. Trim two quarts of
Brussels sprouts, wash them thoroughly, put them in
three quarts of boiling water with two tablespoonfuls
of salt, and boil them gently until tender, about fifteen
minutes, shaking the sauce-pan occasionally ; then
drain them in a colander, being careful not to break
them ; put them again into the sauce-pan with one
ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a salt-
spoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of white
pepper; toss them gently over the fire, while you
make some rounds of buttered toast for the bottom
of a platter ; when this is ready shake the Brussels
sprouts upon it, and serve hot. Some persons like
the addition of two ounces of grated Parmesan
cheese ; and others serve them with the Bechamel
sauce named in receipt No. 84.
94 THE COOKING MANUAL.
152. Stuffed Cabbage. Cut the leaves of a
large white cabbage as whole as possible, cut out the
stalks, wash the leaves well, and boil them only until
tender, in three quarts of boiling water and salt, with
a piece of soda as large as a dried pea ; have ready
some sausage meat highly seasoned, and as soon as the
cabbage is tender carefully drain it in a colander, run
cold water from the faucet over it, and, without tear-
ing the leaves, lay them open on the table, two or three
upon each other, making eight or ten piles. Divide
the sausage meat, and lay a portion in the centre of
each, fold the cabbage over it in a compact roll and
tie it in place with cord ; lay the rolls on a baking
sheet, season with salt and pepper, put over each a
tablespoonful of any rich brown gravy and brown a
little in a quick oven ; serve at once, on small rounds
of toast.
153. Red Cabbage. Cut a firm head of red
cabbage in shreds, lay it in a sauce-pan with the fol-
lowing ingredients ; one gill of vinegar, one teaspoon-
ful each of ground cloves and salt, half a saltspoon-
ful of pepper, two ounces of butter, and two ounces
of sugar ; stew it gently until tender, about one hour,
shaking the pan to prevent burning, and serve
it hot.
154. Baked Cauliflower. Thoroughly wash
a large cauliflower, boil it in plenty of boiling water
and salt, until tender, about twenty minutes ; drain
it whole ; pour over it one gill of Bechamel sauce,
made as in receipt No. 84, dust it thickly with crack-
er dust, or bread crumbs, and Parmesan cheese,
VEGETABLES. 95
mixed in equal proportions, and brown it ten min-
utes in a quick oven.
155. Baked Turnips. Pare six large yellow
turnips, slice them, and boil them till tender in plenty
of salted water ; drain them, put them on a flat dish in
layers, pour over them half a pint of Bechamel sauce,
dust them thickly with crumbs and grated Parmesan
cheese ; brown them in a quick oven, and serve hot.
156. Glazed Onions. Pare three dozen but-
ton onions, put them on a tin dish, pour over them
a very little Spanish sauce or brown gravy, just
enough to moisten them, season them with a tea-
spoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of
pepper ; brown them in a quick oven, shaking them
occasionally to color them equally ; serve hot.
157. Mushroom Pudding. Cleanse a quart
of fresh mushrooms, cut them in small pieces, mix
them with half a pound of minced ham or bacon, sea-
son them with a teaspoonful of salt, and half a salt-
spoonful of pepper ; spread them on a roly-poly crust
made by mixing one pound of flour, half a pound of
shortening, and a teaspoonful of salt, with about one
pint of water : roll up the crust, tie it tightly in a floured
cloth, and boil it about two hours in boiling stock,
or salted water ; serve hot with bread, or vegetables.
158. Boiled Potatoes. Potatoes should be
prepared for boiling by first carefully washing them,
removing the deep eyes or defective parts, and then
paring off one ring all around the potato ; place them
in cold water with a little salt ; when cooked, which
will be in from twenty to thirty minutes, pour
96 THE COOKING MANUAL.
off all the water, cover them with a clean, coarse
towel, leaving off the lid of the pot, and set them on a
hot brick on the back of the fire to steam. 'Pota-
toes treated in this way can be kept fresh, hot and
mealy for hours. Medium-sized and smooth pota-
toes are the most economical to use, and the kind
should be selected in reference to the season.
159. Lyonnaise Potatoes. Chop two ounces
of onion, and fry it pale yellow in two ounces of but-
ter; meantime peel boiled potatoes, either hot or
cold, cut them in slices, put them into the pan con-
taining the onion and butter, season them with a
teaspoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pep-
per, fry them pale brown, shaking the pan to prevent
burning, and tossing it to brown them evenly;
sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley,
and serve at once.
1 60. Stuffed Potatoes. Wash twelve large
potatoes with a brush ; bake them only until they be-
gin to soften ; not more than half an hour ; cut off
one end, scoop out the inside with a teaspoon into a
sauce-pan containing two ounces of butter, one salt-
spoonful of white pepper, one teaspoonful of salt,
and two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese ; stir all
these ingredients over the fire until they are scalding
hot ; then fill the potato skins with the mixture, put
on the ends, press the potatoes gently in shape, heat
them in the oven, and serve them on a hot dish cov-
ered with a napkin, the potatoes being laid on the
napkin. Observe never to cover a baked potato unless
you want it to be heavy and moist.
VEGETABLES. 97
161. Potato Snow. Peel a quart of white po-
tatoes, and boil them as directed in receipt No. 158;
drain them thoroughly, put them in a sieve over the
dish in which they are to be served, and rub them
through it with a potato masher, or a wooden spoon ;
do not stir them after they are put into the dish, and
serve them hot.
162. Bermuda or New Potatoes. Wash a
quart of new potatoes thoroughly, put them into
plenty of boiling water and salt, and boil them until
tender enough to pierce easily with a fork ; drain off
the water, cover them with a towel, let them steam
five minutes, and serve them in their jackets.
163. Broiled Potatoes. Boil a quart of even
sized potatoes until tender, but do not let them grow
mealy ; drain off the water, peel the potatoes, cut
them in half inch slices, dip them in melted butter,
and broil them over a moderate fire ; serve hot, with
a little butter melted.
164. Saratoga Potatoes. Peel a quart of
potatoes, cut them in very thin slices, and lay them
in cold water and salt for an hour or more ; then dry
them on a towel, throw them into a deep kettle of
smoking hot fat, and fry them light brown ; take them
out of the fat with a skimmer into a colander, scatter
over them a teaspoonful of salt, shake them well
about, and turn them on a platter to serve.
165. Broiled Tomatoes. Wipe half a dozen
large red tomatoes, cut them in half inch slices, dip
them in melted butter, season them with salt and pep-
per, dip them in cracker crumbs, and broil them on
c
98 THE COOKING MANUAL.
an oiled gridiron over a moderate fire, being very
careful not to break the slices in turning them. Serve
them with chops for breakfast.
1 66. Stuffed Tomatoes. Cut off the tops from
eight or ten large smooth round tomatoes ; scoop out
the inside, and put it into a sauce-pan with quarter
of a pound of scraps of ham, bacon or tongue minced
fine, a saltspoonful of salt, two ounces of butter, half
an ounce of chopped parsley, and four ounces of
grated cheese and bread crumbs mixed ; stir these
ingredients over the fire until they are scalding hot,
fill the tomato skins with this forcemeat, fit them
neatly together, dust them with sifted bread crumbs,
put over each a very little sweet oil to prevent burn-
ing, brown them in a quick oven, and serve them on
a hot dish with their own gravy turned over them.
167. Saratoga Onions. Slice half a dozen
delicately flavored onions in small strips ; drop them
into plenty of smoking hot fat, fry them pale brown,
and drain them for a moment in a colander. Serve
hot for breakfast or lunch.
1 68. Fried Beans. Fry two ounces of chop-
ped onions in one ounce of butter until golden
brown ; put into them about a quart of cold boiled
white beans, season them with a teaspoonful of salt,
and half a saltspooonful of pepper, moisten them with
half a pint of any brown gravy, and serve them hot.
169. Ham and Beans. Put into a sauce-pan
two ounces of butter, half a saltspoonful each of
salt and pepper, one quart of cold beans, and quar-
ter of a pound of ham chopped fine ; moisten these
VEGETABLES. 99
ingredients with a little gravy of any kind, heat them
thoroughly, and serve at once.
170. Kolcannon. Mince an ounce of onion,
fry it pale yellow in one ounce of butter, add to it
equal parts of cold boiled potatoes and cabbage,
season with a teaspoonful of salt, and half a salt-
spoonful of pepper, and fry for fifteen minutes ; serve
hot for breakfast or lunch.
171. Carrot Stew. Clean, boil, and quarter
three large carrots ; cut the pieces in two ; simmer
them gently in milk enough to cover them, season
with a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pep-
per ; when they are quite tender take them off the
fire long enough to stir in the raw yolk of an egg,
return them to the fire two minutes to cook the egg,
and serve them hot at once.
172. Baked Mushrooms. Clean a quart of
medium sized mushrooms, trim off the roots, dip
them first in some maitre cT hotel butter made of
equal parts of chopped parsley, lemon juice, and
sweet butter, then roll them in cracker or bread
crumbs, lay them on a dish, and just brown them in
a quick oven.
173. Stuffed Lettuce. Choose four round
firm heads of lettuce, first bring them to a boil in hot
water and salt, drain them carefully, cut out the
stalk end, fill the inside of the head with minced
veal or chicken highly seasoned, lay them on a bak-
ing pan, put a tablespoonful of some brown gravy
over each, and then bake in a moderate oven about
fifteen minutes.
ico THE COOKING MANUAL.
174. Stewed Parsnips. Wash eight parsnips,
carefully cut each in four pieces, boil them in plenty
of water, until tender, from twenty minutes to an
hour, according to the season ; then drain off the
water, make a layer of quarter of a pound of salt
pork on the bottom of the pot, put the parsnips in
again, and fry them until brown ; serve the pork
with them on a platter.
CHAPTER X.
CHEAP DISHES WITHOUT MEAT.
" BREAD is the staff of life ; " in all ages and coun-
tries farinaceous foods have formed the bulk of man's
sustenance ; under this general term we include maca-
roni, which contains more gluten than bread and
consequently is more nourishing, the different wheat
flours, oat and barley meal, pearl barley, peas, beans,
and lentils ; the latter are the nearest article to meat
in point of nourishment, containing heat-food in
quantity nearly equal to wheat, and twice as much
flesh food. Lentils have been used for food in older
countries from time immemorial, and it is quite time
that we should become acquainted with their merits;
a lentil soup is given in the second chapter, and in
this we append some excellent directions for cooking
this invaluable food. One quart of lentils when
cooked will make four pounds of hearty food.
There are two varieties in market ; the small flat
brown seed, called lentils a la reine j and a larger
kind, about the size of peas, and of a greenish color ;
both sorts are equally well flavored and nutritious.
There is no reason why, with judicious seasoning, the
"dinner of herbs" should lack the gustatory enjoy-
ment which is popularly supposed to belong to the
102 THE COOKING MANUAL.
repast furnished by the u stalled ox ; " especially if
we are economical enough to save towards making it
any pot-liquor, or cold meat gravy or drippings,
which are left from a feast-day.
175. Potato Soup. Slice six onions, fry them
brown with two ounces of drippings, then add two
ounces of flour and brown it ; add four quarts of
boiling water, and stir till the soup boils ; season
with a level tablespoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of
pepper ; add one quart of potatoes peeled and cut fine,
and boil all until they are tender; then stir in four
ounces of oatmeal mixed smooth with a pint of cold
water, and boil fifteen minutes ; this soup should be
stirred often enough to prevent burning ; when it is
nearly done mix together off the fire one ounce each
of butter and flour, and stir them into the soup ;
when it boils up pass through a sieve with a wooden
spoon, and serve hot with plenty of bread.
176. Scotch Crowdie. Boil one pound of oat-
meal one hour in four quarts of any kind of pot-
liquor, stirring often enough to prevent burning;
season with one tablespoonful of salt, a level salt-
spoonful of pepper, one ounce of butter, and serve
with plenty of bread.
177. Peas-pudding. Soak three pints of dried
peas in cold water over night ; tie them loosely in a
clean cloth, and boil them about two hours in pot-
liquor or water, putting them into it cold and bring-
ing them gradually to a boil ; drain them, pass them
through a sieve with a wooden spoon, season them
with a level tablespoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful
CHEAP DISHES WITHOUT MEAT. 103
of pepper, one ounce of butter, and one egg, if it is
on hand ; mix, tie in a clean cloth, and boil half an
hour longer ; then turn it from the cloth, on a dish,
and serve hot.
178. Red Herrings with Potatoes. Soak
a dozen herrings in cold water for one hour ; dry
and skin them, split them down the back, and lay
them in a pan with two ounces of drippings, two
ounces of onion chopped fine, a saltspoonful of pep-
per, and three tablespoonfuls of vinegar ; and set
them in a moderate oven to brown for ten or fifteen
minutes : meantime, boil one quart of potatoes, with
a ring of the paring taken off, in plenty of boiling
water and salt, pouring off the water as soon as they
are tender, and letting them stand on the back of the
fire, covered with a dry towel, for five minutes ; serve
them with the herrings, taking care to dish both quite
hot.
179. Oatmeal Porridge. Boil two ounces of
chopped onion in two quarts of skim milk ; mix half
a pound of oatmeal smooth with about a pint of milk,
pour it into the boiling rnilk, season it with a table-
spoonful of salt, boil it about twenty minutes, stir-
ring to prevent burning, and serve hot.
1 80. Cheese Pudding. Into two quarts of
boiling water, containing two tablespoonfuls of salt,
stir one pound of yellow Indian meal, and three
quarters of a pound of grated cheese ; boil it for
twenty minutes, stirring it occasionally to prevent
burning ; then put it in a buttered baking pan,
sprinkle over the top quarter of a pound of grated
104 THE COOKING MANUAL.
cheese, and brown in a quick oven. Serve hot. If
any remains, slice it cold and fry it brown.
181. Polenta. Boil one pound of yellow In-
dian meal for half an hour, in two quarts of pot-
liquor, stirring it occasionally to prevent burning;
then bake it for half an hour in a buttered baking
dish, and serve it either hot ; or, when cold, slice it
and fry it in smoking hot fat. This favorite Italian
dish is closely allied to the hasty-pudding of New
England, whose praises have been sung by poe-
tasters.
182. Pish Pudding. Make a plain paste by
mixing quarter of a pound of lard or sweet drippings
with half a pound of flour, a teaspoonful of salt,
and just water enough to make a stiff paste; roll it
out; line the edges of a deep pudding dish with it
half way down ; fill the dish with layers of fresh cod-
fish cut in small pieces, using two or three pounds,
season each layer with salt, pepper, chopped pars-
ley, and chopped onions, using one tablespoonful of
salt, one saltspoonful of pepper, two bay leaves, a
saltspoonful of thyme, four ounces of onion, and half
an ounce of parsley ; fill up the dish with any cold
gravy, milk, or water, cover with paste, and bake fif-
teen minutes in a quick oven ; finish by baking half
an hour in a moderate oven ; serve hot.
183. Lentils boiled plain. Wash two pounds
of lentils well in cold water, put them over the fire,
in four quarts of cold water with one ounce of drip-
pings, one tablespoonful of salt, and a saltspoon-
ful of pepper, and boil slowly until tender, that is
CHEAP DISHES WITHOUT MEAT. 105
about three hours; drain off the little water which
remains, add to the lentils one ounce of butter, a
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of
sugar, and a little more salt and pepper if required,
and serve them hot. Always save the water in which
they are boiled ; with the addition of a little thicken-
ing and seasoning, it makes a very nourishing soup.
184. Stewed Lentils. Put plain boiled len-
tils into a sauce-pan, cover them with any kind of
pot-liquor, add one ounce of chopped onion, two
ounces of butter, quarter of an ounce of chopped
parsley, and stew gently for twenty minutes ; serve
hot.
185. Fried Lentils. Fry one ounce of chop-
ped onion brown in two ounces of drippings, add
plain boiled lentils, see if they are properly sea-
soned, and brown them well ; serve hot.
1 86. Norfolk Dumplings. Mix well together
two pounds of flour, one dessertsp6onful of salt, and
two pints of milk ; divide the dough in twelve equal
parts, and drop them into a pot of boiling pot-liquor,
or boiling water; boil them steadily half an hour.
They should be eaten hot, with gravy, sweet drippings,
or a little molasses.
187. Salt Cod with Parsnips. Soak three
pounds of salt fish over night, with the skin uppermost,
and boil it about one hour, putting it into plenty of
cold water. Meantime pare half a dozen parsnips,
and cut them in quarters, boil them half an hour, or
longer, until tender, drain them, and dish them
around the fish. While the fish and parsnips are
106 THE COOKING MANUAL.
cooking make the following sauce : mix two ounces
of flour and one ounce of butter or sweet drippings,
over the fire until a smooth paste is formed ; then
pour in half a pint of boiling water gradually, stirring
until the sauce is smooth, add three tablespoonfuls
of vinegar, season with one saltspoonful of salt, and
half that quantity of pepper ; let the sauce boil up
thoroughly for about three minutes, and serve it with
the fish and parsnips. A hard boiled egg chopped
and added to the sauce improves it.
1 88. Pickled Mackerel. When fresh mackerel
or herrings can be bought cheap, clean enough to fill
a two quart deep" jar, pack them in it in layers with
a seasoning of a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoon-
ful of powdered herbs a saltspoonful each of pepper
and allspice, and cover with vinegar and cold water,
in equal parts. Bake about one hour in a moderate
oven. Serve with plain boiled potatoes.
189. Potato Pudding. Wash and peel two
quarts of potatoes ; peel and slice about six ounces of
onions ; skin and bone two bloaters or large herrings ;
put all these ingredients in a baking dish in layers
seasoning them with a dessertspoonful of salt and a
saltspoonful of pepper; pour over them any cold
gravy you have on hand, or add two or three ounces
of drippings ; if you have neither of these, water will
answer; bake the pudding an hour and a half ; serve
hot, with bread.
CHAPTER- XI,
CHEAP DISHES WITH MEAT.
THOSE parts of meat which are usually called in-
ferior, and sold at low rates, such as the head, tongue,
brains, pluck, tripe, feet, and tail, can be cooked so
as to become both nourishing and delicate. They
are more generally eaten in Europe than in this
country, and they are really worthy of careful pre-
paration ; for instance, take the haslet ragout, the
receipt for which is given further on in this chapter.
The author owes this receipt to the fortunate circum-
stance of one day procuring a calf's liver direct from
the slaughter-house, with the heart and lights at-
tached ; the liver was to be larded and cooked as
directed in receipt No. 53, at a cooking lesson ; the
chef said, after laying aside the liver, " I will make
for myself a dish of what the ladies would not
choose," and at the direction of the author he cooked
it before the class ; the ladies tasted and approved.
The nutritive value and flavor of the dishes specified
in this chapter are less than those of prime cuts of
meat, but properly combined with vegetables and
cereals, they completely take the place of those more
expensive foods ; they should be thoroughly cooked,
108 THE COOKING MANUAL.
and well masticated; and can usually be digested
with greater ease than the more solid flesh.
190. Three dishes from a Neck of Mut-
ton. PART I. BARLEY BROTH WITH VEGE-
TABLES. Trim a neck of mutton into neat cutlets,
and reserve them for part 2 ; put the bones and trim-
mings into three quarts of cold water, boil slowly,
and skim thoroughly : add six ounces of barley which
has been soaked in cold water over night, a bouquet
of sweet herbs, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and one salt-
spoonful of pepper, and simmer for two hours ; strain
out one quart of the broth for part 3, then add six
ounces of carrots, four ounces of onions, and four
ounces of yellow turnips cut in dice about half an
inch square, six ounces of oatmeal mixed to a smooth
batter with cold water, and simmer until the vege-
tables are tender, which will be about half an hour :
taste to try the seasoning and serve hot. PART II.
MUTTON STEW. Cut half a quart each of yellow
turnips and potatoes into balls as large as marbles,
saving the trimmings to put into soup, and for mashed
potatoes ; peel six ounces of small onions ; put all
these in separate vessels to boil until tender enough to
pierce with a fork ; meantime put the cutlets in a hot
pan containing an ounce of drippings, and fry them
brown quickly ; stir among them one ounce of dry
flour; brown it, add one quart of boiling water; sea-
son with one teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a
saltspoonful of pepper; drain the vegetables, put
them with the meat and gravy, and serve hot. PART
III. FRIED PUDDING. To the quart of broth
CHEAP DISHES WITH MEA T. 109
strained off as directed in Part /, and brought to the
boiling point, gradually add sufficient Indian meal
to thicken it, about half a pound will generally be
enough ; season with a teaspoonful of salt, and boil
it for twenty minutes, stirring it occasionally to
prevent burning; pour it out into a deep earthen
dish, and let it stand long enough to grow solid ; then
cut it in slices, and fry it brown in drippings ; it can
be eaten with molasses for dessert. With proper
management all these dishes can be ready at one
time, and will form a good and wholesome dinner.
191. Neck of Pork stuffed. Clean a neck of
fresh pork, fill it with sage and onion stuffing, made
according to receipt No. ; put it in a dripping pan,
with some small potatoes, peeled and washed well in
cold water, roast it brown, seasoning with a tea-
spoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper,
when it is half done ; when it is thoroughly cooked
serve it with the potatoes laid around it, and a gravy
made from the drippings in the pan cleared of fat, and
thickened with a teaspoonful of flour.
192. Pigs' Feet Fried. Thoroughly burn all
the hairs off with a poker heated to a white heat ;
then scald the feet, wipe them dry, and put them
over the fire to boil in cold water, with two ounces
each of carrot and onion, the latter stuck with six
cloves, two tablespoonfuls of salt, quarter of an ounce
of parsley made into a bouquet with three bay leaves
and a sprig of thyme ; boil them slowly four hours,
or more, until you can easily remove the bones.
Split the feet in two pieces, and take out all the large
no THE COOKING MANUAL.
bones ; have ready some sifted crumbs of cracker, or
dry bread, a little milk, or an egg beaten with a tea-
spoonful of water ; dry the pieces on a clean towel,
roll them first in the crumbs, then dip them in the
milk or egg, and roll them again in the crumbs ; fry
them in smoking hot lard, which you must after-
wards strain and save to use again, and lay them
neatly on a hot dish ; they will make an appetizing
and nourishing meal.
193. Pigs' Tongue and Brains. Soak them
in cold water with two tablespoonfuls of salt for two
hours ; then put them into cold water over the fire,
with two ounces each of carrot and onion, the lattei
stuck with three cloves, a bouquet of sweet herbs,
and a tablespoonful of vinegar, and boil slowly fifteen
minutes ; take out the brains leaving the tongue still
boiling, and put them in cold water to cool ; then
carefully remove the thin membrane or skin cover-
ing the brains, without breaking them ; season them
with a saltspoonful of salt and quarter of a saltspoon-
ful of pepper, roll them in cracker crumbs, and fry
them brown in smoking hot fat. By this time the
tongue will be tender ; take it up, lay it on a dish
between the brains, put a few sprigs of parsley, celery,
mint or watercresses, around them and serve them
hot. This inexpensive dish is very delicate and
nutritious.
194. Roasted Tripe. Cut some tripe in
pieces three inches long by six wide ; cover each
one with highly seasoned sausage-meat, roll up, and
tie with a string; lay the rolls in a dripping pan,
CHEAP DISHES WITH MEAT. Ill
dredge them well with flour, and set them in the
oven to bake, basting them with the liquor which
flows from them ; when they are nicely browned,
dish them up with a slice of lemon on each one.
Some melted butter maybe put over them if desired.
195. Ragout of Haslet. Wash the lights,
cut them in two inch pieces, put them into a sauce-
pan with one ounce each of butter, salt pork sliced,
onion chopped, one dessertspoonful of salt, and half
a saltspoonful of black pepper ; two bay leaves, two
sprigs of parsley and one of thyme, tied in a bouquet,
one ounce of flour, one gill of vinegar, half a pint of
cold gravy or cold water, and six potatoes peeled
and cut in dice ; stew all these ingredients gently
together for two hours, and serve as you would a
stew, with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley
sprinkled over the top.
196. Cock-a-leeky. Pluck, singe, and draw
a cheap fowl, as directed in receipt No. ; break
the breast bone down with a rolling-pin, tie the fowl
in a plump shape, put it into a sauce-pan with four
quarts of cold water, one pound of rice, first washed
in cold water, a tablespoonful of salt, half a salt-
spoonful of pepper, and a bunch of leeks weighing
about a pound, cut in two-inch pieces. Boil all
gently for three hours, stirring occasionally to pre-
vent the rice burning ; serve the fowl on one dish
with a tablespoonful of parsley chopped and sprinkled
over it, and the rice and broth in a soup tureen or
deep dish.
197. Italian Cheese. Chop a pig's pluck,
112 THE COOKING MANUAL.
and two pounds of scraps or trimmings of fresh
pork, season this forcemeat to taste with the spice
salt of mixed spices and sweet herbs named in
Chapter first ; put it into an earthen jar with a lid,
seal the lid with a paste made of flour and water,
and oiled upon the surface to prevent cracking; put
the jar in a moderate oven, and bake the cheese
three hours, slowly. This dish is eaten cold with
bread, in place of butter, and makes a hearty
meal.
198. Gammon Dumpling. Make a plain
paste of two pounds of flour, one dessertspoonful of
salt, half a pound of finely chopped suet or scraps,
and sufficient cold water to mix it to a stiff dough ;
roll this out about half an inch thick, spread over it
about two pounds of any cheap cut of bacon or ham,
finely chopped, roll up the dumpling as you would a
roly-poly pudding, tie it tightly in a clean cloth, and
boil it in boiling water, or boiling pot-liquor, for
about three hours. Serve it hot, with plain boiled
potatoes.
199. Toad-in-the-Hole. Cut two pounds of
the cheapest parts of any good meat into small
pieces, roll them in flour, pepper, and salt, and fry
them brown in two ounces of drippings ; meantime
prepare a batter as follows ; mix one pound of flour,
one heaping teaspoonful of salt, half a nutmeg
grated, and two eggs, stirred in without beating;
gradually add three pints of skim-milk, making a
smooth batter ; add the meat and its gravy to this
batter, put it in a greased baking dish, and bake it
CHEAP DISHES WITH MEAT. 113
slowly about two hours. Serve it with plain boiled
potatoes.
200. Bacon Roly-Poly. Boil a pound and a
half of bacon for half an hour ; then slice it thin ;
peel and slice six apples and the same number of
onions; make a stiff dough of two pounds of flour, a
teaspoonful of salt, and cold water ; roll it out half
an inch thick ; lay the bacon, apples, and onion all
over it, roll it up, tie it tightly in a clean cloth, and
boil it about two hours, in plenty of boiling water.
Serve it with boiled potatoes, or boiled cabbage.
201. Baked Ox-heart. Clean the heart thor-
oughly ; stuff it with the following forcemeat ; one
ounce of onion chopped fine, a tablespoonful of
chopped parsley, a saltspoonful of powdered sage or
thyme, a teaspoonful of salt, half a small loaf of bread,
and enough warm water to moisten the bread; mix,
stuff the heart with it, and bake it an hour in a good
hot oven, basting it occasionally with the liquor that
flows from it, and when half done seasoning it well
with salt and pepper. Serve hot with plain boiled
potatoes, or with potatoes peeled, and baked in the
pan with the heart.
202. Tripe and Onions. Cut two pounds of
tripe in pieces two inches square ; peel and slice six
large onions and ten potatoes ; slice a quarter of a
pound of salt pork or bacon ; put the bacon in the
bottom of a pot, with the tripe and vegetables in
layers on it, seasoning with a tablespoonful of salt, a
saltspoonful of pepper, and the same of powdered
herbs ; mix a pound of flour gradually with a quart
114 THE COOKING MANUAL.
and a half of cold water, pour it over the tripe and
vegetables, and boil it gently for two hours. Serve
hot with bread.
203. Peas and Bacon. Cut a quarter of a
pound of fat bacon in small bits, and fry it brown
with two ounces of onions sliced ; then add four
ounces of split peas, one tablespoonful of salt, one
saltspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of sugar, and
four quarts of cold water ; boil it until the peas are
reduced to a pulp, which will be about three hours ;
then stir in sufficient oatmeal to thicken it, and boil
slowly twenty minutes, stirring it occasionally ;
serve hot ; or when cold, slice and fry it brown.
204. Pot-au-feu. Put into four quarts of cold
water one pound of cheap lean meat, and one pound
of liver whole, some bones, cut into bits, two table-
spoonfuls of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, four
leeks cut in pieces, and the following vegetables
whole ; four carrots, four turnips, and four onions,
each stuck with two cloves ; boil all gently for three
hours, skimming occasionally, and adding two table-
spoonfuls of cold water about every half hour ; take
up the meat and the liver on a platter, arrange the
vegetables neatly around them, and serve the broth
in a tureen, with plenty of bread.
205. Ragout of Mutton. Cut four pounds
of the scrag end of mutton in small pieces ; peel a
quart of turnips and cut them in round pieces as
large as a walnut, and fry them brown in four ounces
of fat ; take them up, mix into the fat four ounces of
flour, and brown it ; add the mutton and sufficient
CHEAP DISHES WITH MEAT. 115
cold water to cover the meat, and stir until it boils ;
season with a tablespoonful of salt, half a saltspoon-
ful of pepper, a teaspoonful of sugar, and an ounce
of onion if the flavor is liked ; simmer gently until
the meat is tender, about two hours ; then add the
turnips, heat them, and serve hot.
CHAPTER XII.
THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER.
ANY elaborate discussion of the relations of food
to the needs of the body would not come within the
scope of a work of this character ; but there are a
few facts concerning the diet of children to which we
would call the attention of those mothers who wish
their little brood to brighten home with radiant eyes,
rosy cheeks, plump, graceful forms, and hearts bub-
bling over with the vivacity which springs from per-
fect health. Let them discard sago, arrowroot, and
tapioca, all largely composed of starch, as compara-
tively useless in nourishing the growing body, which
calls for the most complete nutrients ; these often do
very well in illness, where no great degree of nourish-
ment is necessary, and where simply a given quantity
of bland, innutritious food is required to help the
system do without stronger aliment, calculated to
irritate overworked and sensitive organs.
Indigestible articles, such as fat meat, rich pastry,
hot bread, unripe fruit and vegetables, tea, coffee,
spices, and stimulants, should be avoided in the diet
of children. Good wheaten bread, farina, ripe fruit,
fresh vegetables, meat-juices, milk, and sugar, should
make up the list of staples ; when meats are used they
THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER. 117
should be nutritious and digestible, sucb as good
mutton, young beef, and tender poultry ; bread and
milk and fruit, for breakfast ; meat, vegetables, bread
and some light dessert, for dinner ; bread and milk,
or their equivalents, for supper ; in other words, plain
food and plenty of it, will keep mind and body in a
sound condition, and supply all the requirements of
growth.
Meats should be carefully cooked, so as to pre-
serve all their natural juices; but no rich sauces, or
made gravies, should accompany them to the table ;
a few ripe vegetables cooked until perfectly tender,
roasted or baked potatoes, seed-bearing fruits, gen-
erally stewed, and plenty of light bread at least a day
old, should be eaten with the meat. In stewing fruit
only enough water should be used to prevent burning,
and plenty of sugar should be employed to sweeten
it; all fruit is less apt to be injurious if eaten early in
the day. Eggs should be plain boiled, and rather
soft. Milk should be boiled when there is any undue
action of the bowels; otherwise it should be used
uncooked with plenty of bread.
Hearty, vigorous children, who play much in the
open air, can digest more meat than those who are
confined indoors ; and the cravings of a healthy ap-
petite should always be appeased, care being taken
that the stomach has the proper intervals of rest.
Regularity of meals is really most important at all
ages ; the digestive organs must have time to assimi-
late their food supply. In childhood and youth, the
period of growth, the needs of the system are more
Ii8 THE COOKING MANUAL.
pressing than at any other time of life; if at this
time children are fed on rich and stimulating food,
they will be prone to fevers ; if they are underfed
they suffer both mentally and physically from slow
starvation ; equal and regular nutrition is imperative
to the well being of the little ones, if we would have
them grow up capable of performing in the fullest
degree the highest functions of life. Therefore give
the children plenty of plain, wholesome food ; their
active systems will appropriate it. If they continue
serene in temper, equable in disposition, and gen-
erally healthy, if the eyes are bright, the skin clear,
the sleep serene, the diet is proper and sufficient.
In the following receipts for preparing children's
food the quantities are calculated for four.
206. Oatmeal Porridge. Oatmeal is an ex-
tremely strengthening food ; when it is well cooked
it produces a large volume of nutritive matter in pro-
portion to its bulk; and combined with milk it is the
strongest and best of the cereals. Its flavor is sweet
and pleasant ; it appears in market in two forms, a
rather rough meal, and the unbroken grain, after the
husk has been removed ; in either shape it should be
thoroughly boiled, and combined with milk. A good
thick porridge can be made by stirring four ounces
of oatmeal into a quart of boiling milk, and then
pouring this into a quart of water boiling on the fire,
and allowing it to boil half or three-quarters of an
hour ; care must be taken not to burn it; just before
it is done it should be seasoned with a teaspoonful
of salt ; and sweetened to taste at the table.
THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER, 119
207. A good Breakfast can be made of fresh
milk sweetened with a little sugar and eaten with
bread a day old, lightly buttered.
208. Stewed Fruit, Put a quart of apples
pared and sliced over the fire in a thick sauce-pan,
with half a pint of water, to prevent burning, and
when tender break them well up and sweeten them
with four ounces or more of sugar, according to the
flavor of the apples. Serve them with bread and
butter in the morning, or at noon.
209. Ripe Currants. A pound of ripe cur-
rants mashed, and mixed with half a pound, or more,
of sugar, makes an excellent accompaniment for
bread, being served spread upon the slices.
210. Blackberry Jam. This is an invaluable
addition to the breakfast, or noon dinner, in place
of butter. It is an excellent agent for regulating
the action of the bowels. It is made by boiling with
every pound of thoroughly ripe blackberries half a
pound of good brown sugar ; the boiling to be con-
tinued one hour, and the berries well broken up.
211. Baked Fruit. In addition to baking
apples in the ordinary way, plums, peaches, pears,
and berries, are good when put into a stone jar with
layers of stale bread and sugar, and about a gill of
water, and baking the fruit slowly in a moderate
oven for an hour and a half.
212. Broiled Chops. Trim nearly all the fat
from a pound of loin mutton chops, broil them over
a clear, bright fire for about fifteen minutes, taking
care not to burn them ; when they are done put
120 THE COOKING MANUAL.
them on a hot platter, season them with half a tea-
spoonful of salt, and if they are very dry put a little
butter over them, using not more than a quarter of
an ounce. Serve them with mashed potatoes.
213. Beefsteak. A tender sirloin steak is the
best cut for general use. It should be chosen in ac-
cordance with the directions given in the chapter on
marketing, and broiled over a brisk, clear fire for
about twenty minutes ; the seasoning of salt should
be added after it is taken from the fire, and placed
on a hot dish ; and but very little butter, if any,
should be used. Serve it with baked potatoes, finely
broken with a fork.
214. Broiled Chicken. A tender, but not
very fat chicken, makes an excellent dinner for chil-
dren. It should be plucked, singed, split down the
back, carefully drawn, and wiped with a damp cloth,
but not washed ; the joints and breast-bone should
be broken with the rolling pin, the chicken being
covered with a folded towel to protect the flesh ; it
should then be broiled, inside first, over a clear, brisk
fire, or better still, laid in a pan on a couple of slices
of bread, and quickly roasted in a hot oven ; by the
latter process all the juices of the bird are saved ;
some gravy will flow from a good chicken, and from
this the superfluous fat should be removed ; if the
chicken is very fat the bread under it should not be
given to the children.
215. Boiled Eggs. Eggs are usually spoiled
in cooking ; if they are plunged into boiling water,
and maintained at the boiling point, the effect is to
THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER. 121
harden the albumen while the yolk remains almost
raw, and make them totally unfit for digestion. A
good way to cook them is to place them over the fire
in cold water, bring them slowly to a boil, and then
at once set the vessel containing them back from
the fire, and let the eggs stand in the water about
one minute if they are to be soft, and two minutes,
or longer, if they are to be hard. Poor eggs cooked
in this way are superior in flavor and digestibility to
new-laid eggs boiled rapidly. One minute is quite
long enough to boil them if they are wanted in their
best condition.
216. Baked Potatoes. Potatoes for baking
should be of equal and medium size, with smooth
skins; they should be well washed with a brush or
cloth, and put into a quick oven ; they will bake in
from twenty to thirty-five minutes, according to
variety and ripeness ; as soon as you find they yield
readily when pressed between the fingers, they are
done ; and should be served at once, uncovered. If
they stand they grow heavy, and if you put them in a
covered dish you will make them watery.
217. Boiled Potatoes. Potatoes for children's
use should be very carefully boiled; and if not used
as soon as they are done, should be kept hot and dry,
by pouring off the water, covering them with a dry
cloth, and setting them on the back of the stove.
After washing them thoroughly, pare them entirely,
or take off one ring around each ; if they are new,
put them over the fire in hot water; if they are old,
put them on in cold water; in either case, add a
122 THE COOKING MANUAL.
tablespoonful of salt, and boil them from fifteen to
thirty minutes, as they require, until you can pierce
them easily with a fork ; then drain off all the water,
cover them with a clean dry towel, and set them
on the back of the fire until you are ready to use
them.
218. Apple Cake. Grate a small loaf of stale
/bread; pare and slice about a quart of apples; lightly
butter a pudding mould, dust it well with flour, and
: then with sugar, and fill it with layers of bread
crumbs, apples, and sugar, using a very little cinna-
mon to flavor it ; let the top layer be of crumbs, and
put a few bits of butter on it ; bake the cake for one
hour in a moderate oven ; and serve it for dessert.
219. Fruit Farina. Sprinkle three tablespoon-
fuls of farina into one quart of boiling milk, using a
j sauce-pan' set into a kettle of boiling water, in order
to prevent burning ; flavor and sweeten to taste, and
boil for half an hour, stirring occasionally ; then add
one pint of any ripe berries, or sliced apples, and
boil until the fruit is cooked, about twenty minutes :
the pudding may be boiled in a mould or a cloth
after the fruit is added. It should be served with
powdered sugar.
220. Plain Cookies. Beat one egg with one
cup of sugar to a cream, work two ounces of butter
soft, and beat it with the egg and sugar, grate in quar-
ter of a nutmeg, add one gill of milk, and prepared
flour enough to make a sufficiently stiff paste to roll
out about a pound. Roll an eighth of an inch thick,
cut out with a biscuit cutter, or an inverted cup, and
THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER. 123
lay on a floured baking pan, and bake about twenty
minutes in a moderate oven.
221. Plain Gingerbread. Partly melt one
ounce of butter, stir it into half a pint of molasses,
with a tablespoonful of ground ginger, and half a
pint of boiling water, stir in smoothly half a pound
of prepared flour, and pour the batter into a buttered
baking pan ; bake it about half an hour in a quick
oven, trying it with a broom straw, at the end of
twenty minutes ; as soon as the straw passes through
it without sticking, the cake is done.
222. Strawberry Short-cake. Rub two
ounces of butter into a pound of prepared flour, mix
it stiff enough to mould with about half a pint of
milk ; put the dough upon a round tin plate, gently
flattening with the roller; bake it about twenty min-
utes in a quick oven, trying it with a broom straw to
be sure it is done, before taking it from the oven ;
let it cool a little, tear it open by first separating the
edges all around with a fork, and then pulling it in
two pieces ; upon the bottom put a thick layer of
strawberries, or any perfectly ripe fruit, plentifully
sprinkled with sugar ; then lay on the fruit the upper
half of the short-cake, with the crust down ; add an-
other layer of fruit, with plenty of sugar, and serve
it with sweet milk or cream. This is rather rich,
but a small piece may be given to the children as a
treat, at the noon dinner.
223. Apple Custard. Pare and core six
apples; set them in a pan with a very little water,
and stew them until tender; then put them in a
124 THE COOKING MANUAL.
pudding dish without breaking, fill the centres with
sugar, and pour over them a custard made of a quart
of milk, five eggs, four ounces of sugar, and a very
little nutmeg ; set the pudding-dish in a baking-pan
half full of water, and bake it about half an hour.
Serve it either hot or cold, at the noon dinner.
CHAPTER XIII.
COOKERY FOR INVALIDS.
224. Diet for Invalids. There are three ali-
mentary conditions in illness ; the first prevails where
the system suffers from the reaction consequent upon
over-taxation, when rest is the first demand ; then only
palliative foods meet the calls of nature, those which
give repletion to the sense of hunger, and tide the sys-
tem over a certain period of relaxation and recupe-
ration ; gelatinous soups, and gruels of arrowroot,
sago, and tapioca, will do very well at this stage. The
second condition, when the body, failing under the
pressure of disease, needs an excess of nutrition, is
serious enough to demand the interposition of the
physician the doctor is the proper person to decide
what shall be eaten ; we will offer only a few sugges-
tions concerning refreshing drinks. At the third point,
when the patient is beyond the reach of danger, when
foods are ordered which shall yield the greatest pos-
sible amount of nutrition, the culinary skill of the nurse
may be displayed. It is here that we would give the
paragraphs concerning highly nutritive foods. The
reader will please to note that the quantities in this
chapter are calculated for the use of one person.
225. Gruels. We have already said that in cer-
126 THE COOKING MANUAL.
tain physical conditions the lack of nutrition is what
the body requires, a period of comparative inaction,
combined with repletion ; in such a condition the
following aliments will suffice.
226. Arrowroot Gruel. Mix one ounce of
arrowroot with sufficient cold water to make a
smooth paste ; into this pour a gill or more of boiling
water, stirring the mixture until it is quite clear ;
sweeten it with a little sugar, and use it at once.
227. Arrowroot Jelly. Dissolve two tea-
spoonfuls of Bermuda arrowroot in just enough cold
water to mix it to a smooth liquid paste, stir it into a
quarter of a pint of water boiling upon the fire, with
two tablespoonfuls of white sugar; continue stirring
until the mixture becomes clear, then remove from the
fire and stir in one teaspoonful of lemon-juice, put
into a mould wet with cold water until it is cold. If
the patient's condition will permit, cream and sugar
may be eaten with it.
228. Arrowroot Wine Jelly. Following the
above process, make a jelly of one cup of boiling
water, two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, two teaspoonfuls
of white sugar, one tablespoonful of brandy or three
tablespoonfuls of wine. This jelly is more stimulating
than the gruel, and may meet some especial cases ;
but, unless used with brandy, for impaired digestive
powers, we do not believe it to be of permanent value.
229. Calf's Foot Jelly. Thoroughly clean a
calf s foot ; put it into an earthen jar, with half the
rind of a fresh lemon, two gills of sweet milk, and one
pint of cold water ; close the jar tightly, put it into a
COOKERY FOR INVALIDS. 127
moderate oven, and slowly bake it for three hours ;
then strain and cool it, and remove all fat, before
using ; it is bland and harmless.
230. Sago Gruel. Soak one ounce of sago,
after washing it well in a pint of tepid water for two
hours ; then simmer it in the same water for fifteen
minutes, stirring it occasionally ; then sweeten and
flavor it to taste, and use at once.
231. Sago Milk. Prepare the sago as in pre-
vious receipt, but boil it in milk instead of water ; and
when it has cooked for two hours it is ready for use.
232. Tapioca Jelly. Wash one ounce of tapi-
oca, soak it over night in cold water, and then sim-
mer it with a bit of lemon peel until it is thoroughly
dissolved ; sweeten it to taste, and let it cool before
using.
233. Rice Candle. Mix an ounce of ground
rice smoothly with a little cold water, and stir it into
a pint of boiling water j boil it for fifteen minutes, and
then sweeten it to taste and flavor it with nutmeg. Use
it warm or cold.
234. Isinglass Milk. Soak quarter of an ounce
of clear shreds of isinglass in a pint of cold milk for
two hours ; then reduce it by boiling to half a pint,
and sweeten to taste. Cool it before using.
235. Refreshing Drinks. In feverish condi-
tions cooling drinks, that is beverages which are in
themselves refrigerant, such as lemonade, and those
which are made from aromatic herbs, are grateful and
helpful to the patient, but pure, distilled or filtered
water, is the best for invalids. Hot drinks lower the
128 THE COOK[NG MANUAL,
temperature of the body by evaporation ; excessively
cold drinks check perspiration, and endanger con-
gestion of some vital part ; but water of a moderate
temperature is innocuous. Even in dangerous fevers
the burning thirst of the sufferer can safely be as-
suaged by the frequent administration of small bits of
ice. In cases of incomplete nutrition, cocoa, choco-
late, and other preparations of the fruit of the cocoa-
palm, are invaluable adjuncts ; the active principle of
all these is identical, and the chief nutritive element
is oil. A very small quantity of cocoa will sustain life
a long time.
236. Filtered Water. Put a quart of clear
water over the fire, and just bring it to a boil ; remove
it, and strain it three or four times through flannel ;
then cool it in a covered jar or pitcher, and give it to
the patient in small quantities as the condition re-
quires.
237. Jelly Water. Mix one large teaspoonful
of wild-cherry or blackberry jelly in a glass of cool
water ; drink moderately, and at intervals.
238. Flaxseed Lemonade. Pour one quart
of boiling water over four tablespoonfuls of whole
flaxseed, and steep three hours covered. Then sweeten
to taste, and add the juice of two lemons, using a lit-
tle more water if the liquid seems too thick to be pal-
atable. This beverage is very soothing to the irritated
membranes in cases of severe cold.
239. Barley Water. Wash two ounces of
pearl barley in cold water until it does not cloud the
water ; boil it for five minutes in half a pint of water ;
COOKERY FOR INVALIDS. 129
drain that off, put the barley into two quarts of clean
water, and boil it down to one quart. Cool, strain,
and use. Pearl barley largely contains starch and
mucilage, and makes an excellent soothing and refresh-
ing draught in fevers and gastric inflammations.
NOURISHING DRINKS. These are useful when
liquid nourishment is better suited to the invalid's
condition than solid food.
240. Iceland Moss Chocolate. Dissolve
one ounce of Iceland moss in one pint of boiling
milk ; boil one ounce of chocolate for five minutes in
one pint of boiling water ; thoroughly mix the two j
and give it to the invalid night and morning. This is
a highly nutritive drink for convalescents.
241. Egg Broth. Beat an egg until it is frothy,
stir into it a pint of boiling hot meat broth, free from
fat, season it with a saltspoonful of salt, and eat it hot,
with thin slices of dry toast ; it may be given to assist
the patient in gaining strength.
242. Egg Tea. Beat the yolk of an egg in a cup
of tea, and let the sick person drink it warm ; the
yolk is more readily digested than the white, and has
a better flavor ; and the tea is a powerful respiratory
excitant, while it promotes perspiration, and aids the
assimilation of more nourishing foods.
243. Very strong Beef Tea, (This tea con-
tains every nutritious element of the beef.} Cut two
pounds of lean beef into small dice, put it into a
covered jar without water ^ and place it in a moderate
6*
130 THE COOKING MANUAL.
oven for four hours, then strain off the gravy, and
dilute it to the desired strength with boiling water.
244. Beef Tea. (A quick preparation for im-
mediate use.} Chop one pound of lean beef fine, put
it into a bowl, and cover it with cold water ; let it
stand for fifteen or twenty minutes, and then pour both
beef and liquid into a sauce-pan, and place them over
the fire to boil from fifteen to thirty minutes as time
will permit ; then strain off the liquid, season it slightly,
and serve it at once.
245. Farina Gruel. Stir one ounce of farina
into one pint of boiling water, and boil it down one
half, using a farina kettle, or stirring occasionally to
prevent burning, then add half a pint of milk, boil up
once, and sweeten to taste. Use warm. Farina is a
preparation of the inner portion of the finest wheat,
freed from bran, and floury dust ; it contains an excess
of nitrogenous, or flesh-forming material, readily
absorbs milk or water in the process of cooking, is
quickly affected by the action of the gastric juices ;
and is far superior as a food to sago, arrowroot, tap-
ioca, and corn starch.
246. Nutritious Foods. We have called at-
tention to the fact that the nurse's most important
office is exercised when the invalid begins to regain
health ; the task of rebuilding exhausted vitality de-
mands a thoughtful care that only a tender hearted
woman can bestow; and lacking which the skill of
the most enlightened physician is often set at naught.
Happy the woman who can here assist the restoration
of the vital powers ; she holds in her own hands a
COOKERY FOR INVALIDS. 131
force which wealth cannot buy. To such ministering
angels we dedicate this portion of our little work, in
the hope that countless sick beds will be comforted
thereby.
247. Bread Jelly. Remove the crust from a
roll, slice the crumb, and toast it ; put the slices in
one quart of water, and set it over the fire to simmer
until it jellies ; then strain it through a cloth, sweeten
it, and flavor it with lemon juice ; put it into a mould
and cool it upon the ice before using.
248. Crackers and Marmalade. Toast
three soda crackers, dip them for one minute in boil-
ing water, spread them with a little sweet butter, and
put between them layers of orange marmalade, or
any other preserve or jelly ; put plenty upon the top
cracker, and set them in the oven for two or three
minutes before serving. This makes a delicate and
inviting lunch for convalescents.
249. Chicken Jelly. Skin a chicken, remov-
ing all fat, and break up the meat and bones by pound-
ing ; cover them with cold water, heat them slowly in
a steam-tight kettle, and simmer them to a pulp ; then
strain through a sieve or cloth, season to 'taste, and
return to the fire without the cover, to simmer until
the liquid is reduced one half, skimming off all fat.
Cool to form a jelly. If you have no steam-tight ket-
tle, put a cloth between the lid and any kettle, and
the purpose will be served.
250. Chicken Broth. Dress a chicken or fowl,
cut it in joints, put them in a chopping bowl, and chop
them into small pieces, using flesh, bones, and skin.
132 THE COOKING MANUAL.
To every pound of the chicken thus prepared put one
pint of cold water and one level teaspoonful of salt ;
if pepper is desired it should be either enough cay-
enne to lie on the point of a small pen-knife blade, or
a half saltspoonful of ground white pepper. Put all
these ingredients over the fire in a porcelain lined
sauce-pan, bring them slowly to a boil, remove the pan
to the side of the fire, where it will simmer slowly, the
heat striking it on one side \ simmer it in this way
for two hours, and then strain it through a napkin, set
it to cool ; if any fat rises to the surface in cooling re-
move it entirely. Eat it either cold, say half a tea-
cupful when a little nourishment is required ; or
warm a pint, and eat it with graham crackers at meal
time.
.251. Beefsteak Juice. Quickly broil a juicy
steak, and after laying it on a hot platter, cut and press
it to extract all the juice ; season this with a very lit-
tle salt, and pour it over a slice of delicately browned
toast ; serve it at once.
252. Salmon Steak. Choose a slice of salmon
nearly an inch thick, remove the scales, wipe with a
dry cloth, roll it first in cracker dust, then dip it very
lightly in melted butter, and season with a dust of
white pepper and a pinch of salt; then roll it again in
cracker dust, and put it over a clear fire on a greased
gridiron, to broil slowly, taking care that it does not
burn before the flakes separate ; serve it with some
fresh watercresses and plain boiled potatoes. (Any
red-blooded fish may be used in the same way.)
253. Broiled Oysters. Dry some large oys-
COOKERY FOR INVALIDS. 133
ters on a napkin ; roll them in cracker dust, dip them
in melted butter as for salmon steaks, again in cracker
dust, dust over them a very little salt and white pep-
per, or cayenne, and broil them on a buttered wire
gridiron, over a clear fire . They will be done as soon
as they are light brown. They make a very delicate
and digestible meal.
CHAPTER XIV.
BREAD.
THE preparation of wheat and other grains, in the
form of bread, is one of the most important of all cu-
linary operations, and to many persons one of the most
difficult. It is impossible to set exact rules as to the
quantity of flour or liquid to be used, for the quality
of the flour varies as much as that of the grain from
which it is made ; and some varieties, excessive in
gluten, will absorb nearly one-third more liquid than
others, and produce correspondingly more bread.
For this reason in buying flour we must choose that
which contains the most gluten ; this kind will remain
in a firm, compact mass when pressed in the hand, and
will retain all the lines and marks of the skin ; or if
mixed with water it will take up a great deal in pro-
portion to its bulk, and will form a tough, elastic
dough. Gluten in flour corresponds with the nitrates
or flesh-formers in flesh, and abounds in hard winter
wheat. The flour containing much of it is never ex-
tremely white.
The object of making bread, that is of mixing
water with the flour and subsequently exposing the
dough to intense heat, is to expand and rupture the
cells of the grain so as to expose the greatest possible
BREAD. 135
surface to the action of the digestive fluids ; this is
accomplished in several ways ; by the formation of air
cells through the medium of acetous fermentation, as
in yeast bread ; by the mechanical introduction of
carbonic acid gas, as in aerated bread ; by the mixture
with the flour of a gas-generating compound, which
needs only the contact of moisture to put it in active
operation ; and by the beating into the dough of at-
mospheric air. No organic change in the elements
of the flour is necessary, like that produced by the
partial decomposition of some of its properties, in
bread raised with yeast ; so long as proper surface is
obtained for the action of the gastric juices, the pur-
pose of raising is accomplished. Bread raised with-
out fermentation can be made from the following
receipt, and there is no question of its healthfulness.
254. Aerated Homemade Bread. Mix
flour and water together to the consistency of a thick
batter ; then beat 'it until fine bubbles of air thor-
oughly permeate it ; for small biscuit, pour it into
patty pans, and bake in a good brisk oven ; for bread
in loaves more flour is thoroughly kneaded in with the
hands, until the dough is full of air-bubbles, and then
baked at once, without being allowed to stand.
When bread is to be raised by the acetous fermenta-
tion of yeast, the sponge should be maintained at a tem-
perature of 89 Fahr. until it is sufficiently light, and
the baking should be accomplished at a heat of over
320. When yeast is too bitter from the excess of
hops, mix plenty of water with it, and let it stand for
some hours j then throw the water off, and use the
136 THE COOKING MANUAL.
settlings. When yeast has soured it may be restored
by adding to it a little carbonate of soda or ammonia.
When dough has soured, the acidity can be corrected
by the use of a little carbonate of soda or ammonia.
If the sponge of " raised bread " be allowed to over-
work itself it will sour from excessive fermentation,
and if the temperature be permitted to fall, and the
dough to cool, it will be heavy. Thorough kneading
renders yeast-bread white and fine, but is unneces-
sary in bread made with baking-powder. Great care
should be taken in the preparation of yeast for leav-
ened bread, as the chemical decomposition insepara-
ble from its use is largely increased by any impurity
or undue fermentation. Experience and judgment
are necessary to the uniform production of good
bread ; and those are gained only by repeated trials.
We subjoin one of the best receipts which we have
been able to procure, for making yeast.
255. Home-brewed Yeast. Boil two ounces
of the best hops in four quarts of water for half an
hour, strain off the liquor and let it cool till lukewarm,
and then add half a pound of brown sugar and two
heaping tablespoonfuls of salt; use a little of this
liquor to beat up one pound of the best flour, and
gradually mix in all of it with the flour; let it stand
four days to ferment in a warm place near the fire,
stirring it frequently. On the third day boil and
mash three pounds of potatoes, and stir them into it.
On the fourth day strain and bottle it ; it will keep
good for months.
256. Homemade Bread. Put seven pounds
BREAD. 137
of flour into a deep pan, and make a hollow in the
centre ; into this put one quart of lukewarm water,
one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of sugar,
and half a gill of yeast ; have ready three pints more
of warm water, and use as much of it as is necessary
to make a rather soft dough, mixing and kneading it
well with both hands. When it is smooth and shining
strew a little flour upon it, lay a large towel over it
folded, and set it in a warm place by the fire for four
or five hours to rise ; then knead it again for fifteen
minutes, cover it with the towel, and set it to rise once
more ; then divide it into two or four loaves, and bake
it in a quick oven. This quantity of material will
make eight pounds of bread, and will require one hour's
baking to two pounds of dough. In cold weather, the
dough should be mixed in a warm room, and not al-
lowed to cool while rising; if it does not rise well, set
the pan containing it over a large vessel of boiling
water ; it is best to mix the bread at night, and let it
rise till morning, in a warm and even temperature.
257. Milk Bread. Take one quart of milk, heat
one-third of it, and scald with it half a pint of flour ;
if the milk is skimmed, use a small piece of butter;
when the batter is cool, add the rest of the milk, one
cup of hop yeast, half a tablespoonful of salt, and flour
enough to make it quite stiff; knead the dough until
it is fine and smooth, and raise it over night. This
quantity makes three small loaves.
258. Rice Bread. Simmer one pound of rice in
three quarts of water until the rice is soft, and the
water evaporated or absorbed ; let it cool until it is
138 THE COOKING MANUAL.
only luke-warm ; mix into it nearly four pounds of
flour, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and four tablespoorifuls
of yeast ; knead it until it is smooth and shining, let
it rise once before the fire, make it up into loaves with
the little flour reserved from the four pounds, and
bake it thoroughly.
259. Potato Bread. Take good, mealy boiled
potatoes, in the proportion of one-third of the quantity
of flour you propose to use, pass them through a coarse
sieve into the flour, using a wooden spoon and adding
enough cold water to enable you to pass them through
readily ; use the proper quantity of yeast, salt, and
water, and make up the bread in the usual way. A
saving of at least twenty per cent is thus gained.
260. Pulled Bread. Take from the oven an
ordinary loaf of bread when it is about half baked, and
with the fingers, while it is yet hot, pull it apart in egg-
sized pieces of irregular shape : throw them upon tins,
and bake them in a slow oven to a rich brown color.
This bread is excellent to eat with cheese or wine.
Where bread is made with baking powder the fol-
lowing rules should be closely observed : If any short-
ening be used, it should be rubbed into the flour before
it is wet ; cold water or sweet milk should always be
used to wet it, and the dough should be kneaded im-
mediately, and only long enough to thoroughly mix it
and form it into the desired shape ; it should then be
placed in a well-heated oven and baked quickly other-
wise the carbonic acid gas will escape before the ex-
panded cells are fixed in the bread, and thus the light-
ness of the loaf will be impaired.
BREAD. 139
As a very large margin of profit is indulged in by
the manufacturers of baking powders, we subjoin a good
formula for making the article at home at a consider-
able saving.
261. Baking Powder. Mix thoroughly by
powdering and sifting together several times the follow-
ing ingredients ; four ounces of tartaric acid, and six
ounces each of bi-carbonate of soda, and starch. Keep
the mixture in an air-tight can.
The following receipts will be found useful and
easy:
262. Loaf Bread. Sift together two or three
times one pound of flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking
powder, one saltspoonful of salt, and one teaspoonful
of fine sugar ; mix with enough cold sweet milk to
make the dough of the consistency of biscuit ; or, if
you have no milk, use cold water. Work the dough
only long enough to incorporate the flour well with
the milk or water put it into a baking-pan buttered
and slightly warmed, and set it immediately into a
hot oven ; after about five minutes cover it with paper
so that the crust may not form so quickly as to prevent
rising ; bake about three-quarters of an hour. This
bread is sweet and wholesome, and may be eaten *by
some persons whose digestion is imperfect, with greater
safety than yeast-fermented bread.
263. Breakfast Rolls. Mix well by sifting,
one pound of flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking pow-
der, half a teaspoonful of salt, and one heaping tea-
spoonful of pulverized or fine sugar ; into a small por-
tion of the above rub two ounces of lard, fine and
THE COOKING MANUAL.
smooth ; mix with the rest of the flour, and quickly
wet it up with enough cold milk to enable you to roll
it out about half an inch thick ; cut out the dough
with a tin shape or with a sharp knife, in the form of
diamonds, lightly wet the top with water, and double
them half over. Put them upon a tin, buttered and
warmed, and bake them in a hot oven.
264. Tea Biscuit. Mix as above, using the
same proportions, and cutting out with a round bis-
cuit-cutter ; when they are baked, wash them over with
cold milk, and return them to the oven for a moment
to dry.
265. Finger Biscuit. Mix as above, cut out
with a sharp knife in strips three inches long, one inch
wide, and one-quarter of an inch thick ; lay them upon
a buttered tin so that they will not touch, brush them
over with an egg beaten up with one tablespoonful of
milk, and bake them in a hot oven.
266. Cream Breakfast Rolls. Mix as above,
substituting cream for the milk in moistening the
dough ; cut them out with an oval cutter, two inches
long and one and a half inches wide ; brush the tops
with cream, and pull them slightly lengthwise ; then
fold them together, leaving a slight projection of the'
'under side; put them on a buttered tin, brush the
tops with cream, and bake them in a hot oven.
267. Breakfast Twist. Mix as for breakfast
rolls, cut in strips three inches long and half an inch
thick ; roll each one out thin at the ends, but leave
the centre of the original thickness ; place three strips
side by side, braid them together, and pinch the ends
BREAD.
to hold them ; when the twists are all made out, lay
them upon a buttered tin, brush them over with milk,
and bake them in a hot oven. A little fine sugar
dusted over the tops glazes them and improves their
flavor.
. Hot rolls and biscuits should be served well cov-
ered with a napkin.
268. How to freshen stale Bread. A loaf
of stale bread placed in a close tin vessel, and steamed
for half an hour will be completely freshened.
269. Toast. But few persons know how to pre-
pare toast properly. It should be made with the aim
of evaporating from the bread all the superfluous water,
and transforming its tough and moist substance into
digestible food : for this reason the slices should be ex-
posed gradually to heat of a gentle fire, first upon one
side and then upon the other, for one minute, and after
that they may be toasted golden-brown ; at this stage
it has become pure wheat farina, and is not liable to
produce acetous fermentation in the stomach ; besides,
it will now absorb the butter thoroughly, and both
substances will be in condition to be freely subjected
to the action of gastric juice, and consequently will
be digested with ease. Dry toast should be sent to
the table the instant it is made. Buttered toast should
be set into the oven for about five minutes to render
it crisp.
INDEX.
juice...
to broil.,
A la mode beef 81
Anchovies 37
Apple Cake 122
" Custard 123
Arrowroot Jelly 126
Asparagus with melted butter 92
Bacon Roly-poly 113
Baking Powder 139
Barley Broth with Vegetables... 107
Barley Water 128
Batter for Fry ing 47
Bay-leaves 20
Beans, fried 98
Beef, to choose 16
Beefsteak for children 120
132
Beef, Roast, with Yorkshire Pud-
ding 69
" Portuguese 43
Beets, baked 93
Biscuit 140
Blackberry Jam. 119
Blackfish, baked 32
Birds, to choose 18
Boiled Dishes 78
Bouquet of Sweet Herbs 20
Brains, fried, with Tomato Sauce 50
Bread 134
" Aerated, Homemade 135
" and Butter, English 39
" Homemade 136
" how to freshen stale. .!.... 141
" Loaf 139
" Milk 136
" Potato 138
" Pulled 138
" Rice 136
Breakfast Rolls and Twist. . . . 139, 140
Brussels Sprouts 93
Bubble and Squeak 44
Butter, Epicurean 40
" Maitre d' Hotel 33
Cabbage, Stuffed 94
CalPs Foot Jelly 126
" Liver, larded 51
Caramel 24
Carrot Stew 99
Cauliflower, baked 94
Cheese Pudding 103
" Straws 39
Chicken, broiled for children. , . . 120
" Broth 131
" Fricassee 55
" fried Spanish style 55
Jelly 131
Chicken minced with Macaroni. 56
" Roast 75
Children's Chapter, The 116
Chops, broiled 119
Chowder, St. James 34
Clams, to choose 19
Cock-a-leeky in
Cod, boiled with Oyster Sauce.. 31
Conde Crusts 30
Consomme... . 25
Cookies 122
Crabs, to choose 19
Crackers and Marmalade 131
Croutons
r . 43
Currants, ripe 119
Diet for Brain Workers 15
" forchildren 116
" for Invalids 125
" for Rapid Workers 15
" for Steady Workers 15
Drinks, nourishing 129
refreshing 127
Duck, Roast, with Watercresses.. 75
" Salmi of 57
" to choose 17
Eggs, au gratin 59
boiled for children 120
' Broth 129
" poached 25
" stuffed 59
" Tea 129
Entrees 51
Farina 130
" Gruel 130
" with Fruit 122
Fillet of Sole 34
Fish, d la bonne eau 31
a I'eau de sel 31
O, la Hollandaise . ... ..... 31
au court bouillon 31
au bleu 31
Cakes, Club House .. 35
Chowder 34
Pudding . . 104
to choose. 19
Warmed up 36
Flaxseed Lemonade 128
Flour, to choose 134
Foods, Carbonaceous 15
" Farinaceous 101
" Flesh-forming 15
" for Children ... 118
" Heat 51
" Nitrogenous 15
" Nutritious 130
INDEX.
143
Forcemeat for Poultry ..........
Fowls, boiled with Oyster Sauce.
" Grilled .................
" to choose ................
Fruit for Children ..............
" to choose .................
Gammon Dumpling ........ ....
Geese, to choose ................
Gingerbread ....................
Glaze .............. ...........
Golden Buck ..................
Goose, Roast, with Onion Sauce.
Gravy for Roast Meat ...........
Green Peas .....................
Gruels ............. ............
Ham and Beans ................
Ham, boiled with Madeira Sauce
Hare, civet of ....... ...........
" to choose .................
Haslet Ragout ..................
Herbs, sweet. ... ..............
Herrings, pickled ...............
Iceland Moss Chocolate .........
Isinglass Milk ..................
Italian Cheese ..................
Jelly Water ....................
Jelly, Bread ....................
Kidneys, broiled ...............
" stewed ...............
Kolcannon ......................
Kromeskys with Spanish Sauce..
Lamb, epigramme of. ...........
Larding ........................
Lentils ........................
" boiled ..................
" fried ...................
" stewed .................
Lettuce stuffed .................
Liver Rolls .....................
Lobsters, to choose .............
Macaroni .......................
" Milanaise style .......
" with Bechamel Sauce.
" with Cheese ..........
" with Tomato Sauce...
Timbale of ..........
Mackerel, pickled ..............
Marinade for beef .............
Marketing ........ . .............
Mayon na fse ........
Mock Crab ...................
Mushrooms, baked ..............
Pudding ...........
Mussels, to choose .............
Mutton haricot...
" Legof. .................
" Ragout ................
Mutton Stew 45
" three dishes from neck of. 108
" to choose 16
Norfolk Dumplings 105
Oatmeal Porridge 103
Onions, glazed 95
Saratoga 98
Omelettes, how to make 60
Oriental style 63
Plain 60
Spanish style 62
with Cheese 61
with Ham 62
with Herbs 61
with Mushrooms 62
with Oysters 62
with Preserves 63
with Tongue 61
Oysters, broiled 132
" scalloped 37
" to choose 19
Ox-heart, baked 13
Parmesan Cheese 64
Parsnips, stewed 100
Partridge, roast 77
" to choose 18
Peas and Bacon 114
Pease Pudding 102
Pheasants, to choose 18
Pigeons, broiled 57
to choose 17
Pigs' Feet, broiled 54
" fried 109
Pig's Tongue and Brains no
Polenta 104
Pork Chops with Curry 53
Cutlets, broiled 53
neck of 109
Pie, English...., 54
Roast, with Apple Sauce . . 72
to choose 16
Poultry, to choose 16
Potatoes, baked 121
" Bermuda 97
" boiled 95
" boiled for children .... 121
" boiled in jackets 97
" Duchesse 75
" Lyonnaise 96
" Parisian 42
" Pudding 106
" new 97
" Saratoga 97
" snow 97
" stuffed 96
Pot-au-feu 114
Quail, to choose 18
Red Cabbage 94
144
INDEX.
Red Herrings with Potatoes .... 103
Relishes ..................... ... 37
Rice, boiled .................... 54
". Caudle .................. 127
Roasts ........................ 68
" to froth ......... . . ..... 69
" to glaze ................ 69
" to test .................. 69
Rump Steak .......... . ........ 43
Sago Gruel ..................... 127
" Milk ..................... 127
Salad, Asparagus ....... ....... 85
" Cauliflower ............. 85
" Dandelion ............... 85
" Green Pea ............ 86
" Mint ... ................. 85
" Nasturtium ............... 86
" Oil ...................... 84
Orange .................. 86
" Shad-roe ................. 85
Spinach .................. 86
" Spring .................. 84
Tomato ................. 86
" Watercress ............... 85
Salad Sauce, Anchovy .......... 88
" Cream ............ 87
Egg ............... 88
English ........... 87
Green Remolade.. 88
Hot ......
" Mayonnaise
Oil ..............
" Piquante ......... 87
" Ravigote .......... 88
Remolade ......... 87
Romaine ......... 89
Salmon Steak ........... . ....... 132
Salt Cod with Parsnips .......... 105
Sardines ....... " ................. 37
" Sandwiches ........... 36
Sauce, Apple ................... 73
" Bechamel ............... 65
" Bread ................... 77
Caper ................... 74
" Cranberry . ............. 79
" Dutch .................. 36
" Madeira ................. 80
" Mint, cold, .............. 72
" Mint, hot ................ 72
" Onion ................... 76
" Oyster ................... 82
" Piquante ................ 46
" Robert .................. 53
" Romaine ................ 76
" Spanish ................. 46
" Tomato ................ 59, 66
" Vanilla Cream ........... 67
" White, with Eggs ........ 52
88
Sauce, White, without Eggs
Scollops, to choose
Scotch Broth with Meat
without Meat
Scotch Crowdie
Shad, broiled ;
Sheeps' Kidneys, broiled
" Tongues with Spinach. . .
Side Dishes...
Smelts, fried
Sole, fillet of.
Soup, clear
" to clarify
" to flavor, thicken, and color
" Lentil
" Macaroni
" Pea
" Potato
" Rice and Tomato. ..
" Sorrel
" Spinach
" Vermicelli
Spaghetti
Spinach, boiled
Stuffing for meat
Veal
" Sage and Onion
Strawberry Shortcake
String Beans
Tapioca Jelly
Toad-in-the-hole
Toast. . .
Tomatoes, broiled
" stuffed
Tripe and Onions
Tripe, roasted
Turkey, Roast, with Cranberry
Sauce
Turkey, to choose
Turnips, baked
Veal, Blanquette of
" Roast Loin of
" Stuffed
" to choose
Vegetables
" to choose
" to boil
Venison, to choose
Water, filtered
Welsh Rarebit
Wild Duck, Roast
" . to choose
Wild Goose, to choose
Woodcock, to choose
Yeast Homebrewed
" how to restore bitter
" how to restore sour
Yorkshire Pudding
56
102
33
49
48
4 1
33
34
25
2 3
24
29
26
29
IO2
26
28
2 7
26
64
49
53
7 1
76
123
9
127
112
I 4 I
99
"3
no
128
38
77
'37
136
136
70
CO
CN
Q. <
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