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U.VELLEirS  HANDBOOK 
NAPLES  m  ENVIRONS 


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COOK'S 

HANDBOOK 


TO 


NAPLES 

AND    ENVIRONS. 
WITH  MAP  AND  PLAN. 


LONDON  : 

THOS.    COOK    &    SON,    LUDCiATE    CIRCUS,    E.C.4- 

SIMPKIN,  MARSHALL,   HAMILTON,  KHNT  &  CO.,  LTD, 

FLORKNCK:    lo.  VIA  TORNABUONI. 
VENICE:     PIAZZA    DEI  LEONCINI,    PIAZZA 

SAN  MARCO. 
,,^,.„,     \  PIAZZA  ESEDRA  5.1.  R(nrK  (22). 
KUMl-,:  I  jjj^  PIAZZA   1)1  Si>A(;XA. 
MILAN  :  7,  VIA  A.    .MANZONI. 
NAPLES:       CALLERIA        VITToRIA,       VIA 

CHIATAMONE,  N.4. 
STRESA  :    28,     VIALl'.    UMliERTO    I    (Summer 

onlv). 
SAN    REMO:    VIA    VITTORIO    EMANUEl,!': 

(Winter  only). 
C.ENOA:      VIA      AKSENALE       DI      TERRA 

(PIAZZA  ACQUAVERDE). 


THOS.  COOK 
&  SON'S 

OFFICES  IN 
ITALY. 


2034/1^/21.11. 


T922 


Cook's 

Travellers'  Handbooks 

Ca/i  be  obtained  Ihroitgh  any  oj  their 

OJffu 

es 

and  Ai^encies  at  the  folloiving;  net  pi 

■ices. 

6 

d. 
0 

Algeria  and  Tunisia 

Bt'lgium  and  Ardennes             .  . 

6 

Egypt  and  the  Sudan  .., 

20 

0 

Florence 

^ 

0 

Holland             

2 

6 

Italy,  Northern 

TO 

6 

Italy,   Southern    (including  Rome  and 

'  Sicily)        . .  /         

10 

6 

London 

2 

6 

Londres  (in  French)    ...          .... 

2 

0 

Naples 

2 

6 

Normandy  and  Brittany 

6 

0 

Norway  and  Denmark 

3 

6 

Palestine  and  Syria 

10 

6 

do.     (Lower  Palestine  Section) 

3 

6 

do.     (Cialilee  and  Syria  Section) 

2 

6 

P;u-is      

2 

6 

Rhine  and  Black  Forest 

3 

6 

Riviera  and  Pyrenees  ... 

5 

0 

Rome    ... 

2 

6 

Spain     ... 

1  2 

6 

Sweden  ... 

3 

6 

Switzerland 

6 

0 

X'enice  ...           ...           ...           ... 

2 

0 

URL 


HOTELS    IN    NAPLES 

AM)   ENVIRONS. 

Notice, — Oivinn  to  the  unsettled  conditions  of  hotel  charges  due  to  the  general  increase  in 
the  cost  of  everything  pertaining  to  hotel  life,  the  coupon  rates  formerly  shoivn  in 
these  paftes  have  been  temporarily  withdraivn.  Particulars  of  the  rates  ruling  at 
the  moment  may  be  obtained  at  any  of  uur  Offices. 

JCST  as  COOK'.S  luteriiatioual  Travelling  Tickets  enable  tlie  tourist  to  provide  himself 
before  starting  with  the  necessary  tickets  for  his  round,  and  to  know  the  exact  cost 
of  the  transit  portion  of  his  tour,  so  Cook's  Hotel  Coupons  enable  him  to  estimate 
to  within  a  fraction  the  hotel  expenses  of  the  journey. 

There  are  now  si.x  distinct  series  in  operation  on  the  Continent.  The  ('oupons  are 
issued  bound  with  a  booklet  giving  a  complete  list  of  the  hotels  at  which  they  are 
available,  and  also  full  details  of  any  exceptional  arrangements  that  may  be  in  force. 

Series  A  provides  for  Bedroom,  Lights  and  Attendance,  Plain  Breakfast  and  Dinner 
at  Table  d'Hote. 

Series  B  provides  f(jr  Meat  Brcakja^t,  Dinner  at  Table  d'Hote,  Bedroom,  Lights  and 
Attendance . 

Series  C  i)r()vides  for  Bedroom,  Lights  and  Attendance,  Plain  Breakfast,  Lnnch  at 
Table  d'Hote  (where  customarj)  and  Dinner  at  Table  d'Hote. 

Series  V  ;incl  W  also  provide  for  full  board,  but  at  a  superior  class  of  hotel  to  that 
of  Series  C. 

Series  R  also  provides  for  full  board,  but  at  Hotels  of  the  Second-class. 

Series  A,  B  and  C. 

Amalfi — Hotel  Cappucini. 
An.acapri — Hotel  Eden  Mi^Iaro. 
Capri — Hotel  (^uisisana. 

,,  Hotel  Schweizerhof. 

„  Hotel  Splendide. 

Cav.a   DEI  TikKKNi  (near  Salerno) — Hotel  de  l.ondres. 
N.Ai'i.KS  -  Parker  Hotel. 

„  Hotel  de  Lend  res. 

,,  Hotel  Continental. 

,,  Central  Station  lUiffet .(meals  only). 

Pompeii — Hotel  Suisse. 
SoRR i:\TO — Hotel  Tramontano. 

Series  V. 

Naples — Bertolini's  I'alace  Hotel. 


Naples — {continued). 

Series  W. 

Naples — Hotel  Royal. 

„  Grand  Hotel  du  \'esuve. 

Series  R. 

Amalfi — Hotel  de  la  Lune. 

„  Hotel  Marine  Riviere. 

Anacapri — Paradiso  Hotel. 
Capri — Hotel  Bristol. 
Caserta — Hotel  Victoria. 
Naples — Hotel  and  Pension  de  la  Rivieri. 

,,  Hotel  Metropole. 

Sorrento — Hotel  de  la  Syrene. 

„  Hotel  de  Londres. 

Valle  di   Pompei — Hotel  du  Sanctuaire. 


NAPLES. 

Population,  about  900,000. 
Italian,  Napoli.         French,  Naples. 

[Hotels — see  p.  iii.] 

Railway  Stations. — For  all  the  lines  there  is  only  one 
railway  station,   situated  at  the  east  end  of  the  town,  except 

The  Cumana  Railway,  a  short  line  starting  from  Monte 
Santo  {see  p.  3)  for  Bagiioli,  Fozzuoli,  Baia,  Torregaveta, 
etc.,  in  correspondence  with  the  steamers  for  the  islands  of 
Pro(ida  and  Ischia ;  (the  first  station  in  the  Corso  Vittorio 
Emanuele  is  very  convenient)  and  the  Ottaiano-Circum- 
vesuviana  Railway,  starting  from  the  Corso  Garibaldi,  connecting 
at  Pugliano  with  Thos.  Cook  &  Son's  Vesuvius  electric  railway 
and  the  line  to  Pompeii  {see  p.  85). 

Cook's  Office. — Galleria  Vittoria,  Via  Chiatamone. 

Post  Office. — Palazzo  Gravina,  Strada  di  Monteoliveto  {see 
p.  56) ;  open  8  a.m  to  8  p.m.  Branch  Office  at  Cook's 
Office  {see  above)  and  in  other  parts  of  the  city. 

Telegraph  Office. — Palazzo  Gravina;  open  day  and  night. 
Branch  office  at  Cook's  Office  (as  above). 

British  Consulate  General. — Via  dei  Mille,  40. 

U.S.  Consulate. — Via  Cuma  a  S.  Lucia. 

English  Dentist. — Dr.  Atkinson,  Via  Roma,  12. 

English  Chemists. — Roberts  &  Co.,  Via  Vittoria  ;  Watson, 
Via  Domenico  Morelli  ;   Kernot,  Strada  San  Carlo,  2. 

English  Church. — Strada  San  Pasquale  a  Chiaia,  Services  : 
On  Sundays,  1 1  a.m.  and  5  p.m. 

Scotch  Presbyterian  Church. — Vico  Cappella  Vecchia, 
5.     Service  on  Sundays,  11  a.m.  and  3.30  p.m. 

Baptist  Church. — Strada  Foria,  175.  Service  on  Sun- 
days, II  a.m. 

Wesleyan  Methodist  Church. — Vico  S.  Anna  dL 
Palazzo.     Service  on  Sundays,  1 1  a.m. 


2  NAPLES. 

Evangfelical  Schools. — Vico  Cappella  Vecchia,  5. 
English  and  Foreign  Booksellers. — Detken  &  Rocholl, 
l^iazza  del  Plebiscito,  Michaelsen,  opposite  Cook's  Office. 
Funicular  Railways  {see  p.  3). 

Steamers. — The  Orient  Line  Steamers  call  outward  and 
homeward  about  twice  monthly.  The  Cunard  Line  about 
once  a  month  to  and  from  Gibraltar  to  New  York.  The  White 
Star  Line  about  once  monthly  to  and  from  Gibraltar  to  Boston. 
The  Fabre  Line  about  twice  a  month  to  and  from  Marseilles 
and  to  and  from  New  York.  Lloyd  Sabaudo  about  once  a 
month  to  and  from  New  York  and  also  some  irregular  sailings 
to  the  Black  Sea.  Navigazione  Generale  Italiana  about  three 
times  a  month  to  and  from  New  York.  Compania  Tras- 
atlantica  about  once  a  month  to  and  from  New  York.  Cosulich 
Line  about  monthly  to  and  from  New  York  and  to  and  from 
Trieste.  Messageries  Maritimes,  irregular  sailings  to  Con- 
stantinople. Roumanian  Line  fortnightly  to  and  from  the 
Black  Sea.  Adria  Line  fortnightly  to  and  from  the  Black  Sea. 
Societa  Italiana  dei  Servizi  Marittimi,  twice  a  month  to  Egypt, 
Palestine  and  Syria  ;  once  a  month  to  the  Black  Sea.  Marittima 
Italiana,  once  a  month  to  Alexandria,  Palestine  and  Syria  ; 
once  a  month  to  Bombay  and  once  to  Durban.  Union  Castle 
Line  about  monthly  to  Durban  and  Cape  Town.  Navigazione 
Ferrovie  dello  Stato,  daily  at  8  p.m.  for  Palermo  and  weekly 
on  Mondays  at  8  p.m.  for  Tunis. 

The  local  steamers,  now  belonging  to  the  Italian  Govern- 
ment, start  daily  from  S.  Lucia  for  Sorrento,  Capri  and  the 
Blue  Grotto ;  for  Procida,  Ischia  and  Casamicciola  daily  (from 
Immacolatella)  ;  for  Vico,  Meta,  Sorrento,  Massa  and  Capri 
daily  (from  Imfnacolatella) ;  for  Capri-Amalfi-Salerno  twice  a 
week  (from  Immacolatelhi). 

Boats. — Fare  from  the  mail  steamer  to  the  Custom  House, 
2  fr.  50  c,  including  luggage  ;  to  local  steamers,  i  fr.  There  is 
no  fixed  tariff  for  pleasure  boats.  Prices  vary  according  to  the 
season ;  a  bargain  must  therefore  be  made  beforehand. 

Electric  Tramways  (till  midnight.) — Fare  50  c,  any 
distance  until  10  p.m.,  from  which  hour  a  supplement  of  20  c. 
is  charged.  On  holidays  70  c.  plus  20  c.  after  10  p.m.  The 
cars  stop  regularly  at  the  chief  stations  (^''  Sezione''),  and  also, 
when  required,  at  the  points  indicated  by  signboards  with  the 
inscription  "  Fermata." 

Tramways  run  in  all  directions,  and  from  one  end  of  Naples 
;to  the  other. 


TRAMWAY    ROUTES. 


Routes. 


1.  Posilipo  and  Piazza  Trinita  Maggiore. 

2.  Capo  di  Posilipo  and  Piazza  Trinita  Maggiore. 

3.  Piazza  Carlo,  Terzo  and  Mergellina. 

4.  Piazza  Bellini,  Marina  and  La  Torretta. 

5.  Rione  Amedeo  and  Strada  de  Tribunali. 

6.  La  Torretta,  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  and  Piazza  Dante. 

7.  Piazza  Dante,  Vomero  and  San  Martino. 

9.  Piazza  Dante,  Strada  Confalone  and  Arenella. 

10.  Piazza  San  Ferdinando  and  Strada  Fontanelle. 

11.  Piazza  San  Ferdinando,  Marina  and  Piazza  Bellini. 

12.  Largo  Montesanto,  Post  Office  and  Rione  del  Vasto. 
14.  Piazza  Dante,  Strada  Foria  and  Ponti  Rossi. 

16.  Piazza  del  Municipio,  Rione  del  V^asto  and  Poggioreale. 

17.  Ponte  delle  Sanita  and  Granili. 

18.  Vittoria  and  Capodimonte  (Tondo). 

19.  Rione  Amedeo  and  Montesanto. 

20.  Santa  Caterina  and  Via  Tasso. 
29.  Largo  Montesanto  and  Tribunali. 

There  are  also  the  Aversa-Cairano  and  the  Nola-Baiano 
Railways.  The  stations  of  both  these  are  close  together  near 
the  Porta  Capuana,  not  far  from  the  Central  Station. 

Funicolare  al  Vomero. — From  the  Parco  Margherita, 
every  15  minutes,  with  station  in  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele, 
to  the  top  of  the  Vomero.  Fares  :— ist  cl.,  60  c.  up;  50  c. 
down.  2nd  cl.,  50  c.  up  ;  40  c.  down.  Another  Funicolare 
has  been  made  to  the  Vomero,  the  Upper  Station  of  which  is 
close  by  the  Castle  of  S.  Elmo ;  the  Lower  Station  is  at  Monte 
Santo  next  to  the  terminus  of  the  Ciimana  Railway^  and  is 
reached  from  the  centre  of  the  Via  Roma  {^Toledo)  through  the 
populous  Market  of  Pignasecca. 

Theatres. — The  best  are  generally  closed  in  summer. 
Prices  moderate.     Performances  commence  8  to  9  p.m. 

S.  Carlo,  Via  S.  Carlo  (p.  60)  ...  Opera. 

Mercadante  (or  Del  Fondo)  Strada  del 

Molo  (p.  61)  ...  ...  ...  Opera  and  Drama. 

Bellini,  near  the  Museum  (p.  61)       ...  Opera  and  Drama. 

Sannazaro,  Via  di  Chiaia  (p.  61)        ...  Comedy  and  Drama. 

Fiorentini,  Strada  Fiorentini  (p.  61)   ...  Drama. 

Teatro  Nuovo,  Strada  Nuova  (p.  61)  Comic  Oi)era. 

B 


4  NAPLES, 

Teatro    Fenice,    Via    del     Municipio 

(p.  6 1 )  ...  ...  ...  ...   Varieties. 

Teatro    Rossini,    Strada    fuori    Porta 

Medina  (p.  6 1)         ...  ...  ...   Comedy  &  Operetta. 

Partenope,  Piazza  Cavour  (p.  6i)      ...   Punch  and  Judy. 

Politeama,  Strada  Monte  di  Dio        ...   Dramas,     Operettas, 

circus. 

S.  Ferdinando,  Strada  Pontenuovo    ...   Popular  pieces. 

Umberto  I.,  Via  Maio  di  Porto  ...   Drama  and  Operetta. 

Nuovo,  Vico  Lungo  Teatro  Nuovo   ...  Varieties. 

Eldorado,  S.  Lucia,  Castel  dell'  Ovo...  Varieties. 

Grand  Eden,  Via  Guglielmo  Sanfelice    Varieties. 

Salone  Margherita,  Galleria  Umberto  I.  Cinematograph. 

Kursaal,  A^ia  dei  Mille  ...  ...   Cinematograph. 

Restaurants,  Cafes.  —  Restaurant  Select,  Via  Santa 
Brigida.  Gambrinus,  Piazza  San  Ferdinando.  Cafe  and 
Restaurant  Calzona,  Galleria  Umberto  Primo  (Concert). 
Restaurant  Giardini  d'ltalia,  Via  Roma.  Restaurant  Regina 
d'ltalia.  Via  Roma.  At  Posilipo,  Restaurant  Soglie  de  Frisio, 
where  among  other  thing.s,  good  fish  may  be  procured. 

Macaroni  is  the  favourite  dish  of  the  country ;  this  and  the 
celebrated  Shell-fish  Soup,  if  not  served  at  the  traveller's  hotel, 
will  be  found  at  any  of  the  various  cafe-restaurants. 

Lava  Ornaments,  Coral  Ornaments,  Gloves,  and 
Tortoise = shell  are  specialities  of  Naples,  and  good  things  to 
bring  away  as  souvenirs.  In  making  purchases  in  shops,  it 
must  be  remembered  that  it  is  the  custom  of  the  country  to  ask 
considerably  more  than  will  be  taken.  It  is  by  no  means 
infra  dig.  to  drive  a  hard  bargain,  and  the  traveller  should  never 
allow  a  tout  to  introduce  him  to  a  shop  to  make  purchases. 

Festivals,  Religious  and  National,  have  lost  much  of 
their  former  importance,  but  some  of  them  are  still  very 
interesting  and  worth  visiting.  For  a  list  of  the  principal 
Festivals,  see  p.  62. 

Cabs  and  Carriages  are  very  numerous,  the  former  on 
taximeter  system  ;  prices  moderate,  as  follows  : — 

Private  Carriages. 

In  town — |)er  day  :  landau  or  victoria,  80  fr. 
In  country — per  day:  landau   or   victoria,    100  fr.  ;  plus    a 
gratuity  of  10  fr.  to  the  driver. 

N.B. — Private  arrangements  by  the  week  or  month. 


TAXI-CAB    PARKS.  5 

Taxi  =  Cab  Fares. 

One  Horse,  from  6  a.m.  to  ii  p.m.  within  the  limits  of  the 
city.  Indicator  starts  with  i  1.  20  c,  and  30  c.  is  added  to  the 
final  sum  registered. 

Two  Horses,  during  same  hours  and  within  same  limits. 
Indicator  starts  with  2  1.  40  c,  and  60  c.  is  added  to  the  final 
sum  registered.  Passengers  should  see  that  the  driver  opens 
the  lever  at  the  moment  of  starting. 

Small  gratuities  also  expected. 

Carriage  Drives. — Visitors  to  Naples  will  do  well  to 
consult  Thos.  Cook  &  Son's  Agent,  Galleria  Vittoria,  Via 
Chiatamone,  as  to  the  best  and  most  economical  way  of  seeing 
Naples  and  its  environs.  Thos.  Cook  &  Son  have  arranged 
programmes  for  Drives  and  Excursions,  by  which  the  chief 
attractions  can  be  comfortably  visited  in  seven  days;  or 
travellers  with  less  time  to  spare  have  a  choice  of  excursions  ot 
one  day  or  three  days'  duration. 

Tours  in  Sicily. — Cook's  Conducted  Tours.  Visiting 
Messina,  Taormina,  Syracuse,  Catania,  Girgenti,  and  Palermo. 
Inclusive  fares  quoted  on  application. 

Private  Parties  of  not  .less  than  six  can  arrange  with 
Thos.  Cook  &  Son  for  a  charming  tour  through  Sicily,  starting 
from  and  returning  to  Naples. 


On  arrival  at  Naples,  the  luggage  of  every  passenger,  by 
land  or  by  sea,  is  examined.  It  is  best  to  disregard  the 
solicitations  of  all  touters,  and  proceed  at  once  to  the  omnibus 
belonging  to  the  hotel ;  and  if  there  is  not  an  hotel  omnibus, 
engage  a  cab  (tariff  sec  above).  In  case  of  any  misunderstand- 
ing, call  a  policeman,  or  if  redress  cannot  be  obtained  in  this 
way,  take  his  and  (he  cabmaji's  number,  and  then  apply  to  the 
Central  Bureau  of  the  Corso  Pubblico,  Hotel  de  Ville,  Piazza 
del  Municipio  (ist  floor). 

Messrs.  Thos.  Cook  &  Son's  Interpreter,  in  uniform, 
meets  all  trains  and  the  principal  steamers,  to  assist  all 
travellers  ])rovided  with  Cook's  coupons. 

Climate. 

The  climate  of  Naples  varies  from  100°  Fahr.  in  July  and 
August,  to  32"  between  January  and  March,  and  is  subject  to 
extreme   variations   in    the    same   day.       The    mean     Winter 


6  NAPLES. 

temperature  (which  mostly  interests  visitors)  is  about  50°,  but 
in  January,  when  the  mountains  are  clad  in  snow,  the  thermo- 
meter at  night  often  registers  several  degrees  of  frost.  October 
and  November  are  more  or  less  rainy  months  ;  December  is 
generally  fine ;  January  cold ;  February  milder  but  rainy ; 
March  changeable ;  April  and  part  of  May  delightful  months  ; 
and  the  summer  hot,  with  usually  a  morning  sea  breeze. 

There  are  about  120  rainy  days  throughout  the  year,  a  great 
deal  of  N.E.  wind,  and  of  S.E.  wind  called  Scirocco,  but  snow 
and  fogs  are  seldom  seen.  Taken  altogether,  the  climate  of 
Naples  is  healthy  in  winter,  but  visitors  should  be  careful  to 
wear  warm  clothing,  to  avoid  chills,  to  observe  moderation  as 
to  diet,  and  not  to  over-fatigue  themselves  sight-seeing,  as  the 
neglect  of  these  precautions  may  induce  an  attack  of  Neapolitan 
fever,  a  mild  form  of  typhus.  The  water  supplied  by  the  new 
waterworks,  near  the  Palace  of  Capodimonte,  is  brought  from 
the  district  of  Serino,  about  55  miles  from  Naples,  and  is 
excellent'. 

Historical  Summary. 

B.C.   1000.     Greek  colonists  founded  Cumge,  of  which  an  off- 
shoot   founded    Parthenope — the     older     part 
called  Palaeopolis ;  the  new  part,  Neapolis,  was 
the  origin  of  Naples. 
480.     Naples  united  to  Rome. 
29.     Augustus    Cccsar,    Virgil,    and    other    illustrious 
Romans  resided  here,  followed  by  Tiberius. 
\.T).       54.     (About.)     Nero  appeared  on  the  Neapolitan  stage 
as  actor  and  singer. 
79.     Eruption  of  Vesuvius  destroyed  Pompeii. 
500.     Naples  under  Theodoric  and  the  Goths. 
536.     Taken  by  Belisarius. 

543.     Reduced    by  famine   and   the    walls    levelled    by 
Totila ;  soon  after  reconquered   by  Narses  for 
the    Grecian     emperor     Justinian ;     afterwards 
governed  l)y  exarchs    of   Ravenna,  then    inde- 
pendent till 
967.     Overrun  by  Germans  under  Otho. 
1000.     Occupied  by  Normans. 
io6i.     Roger  the  Norman  made  king. 
1 186.     Norman  Princess  Constantia  marries  the  Emperor 
Henry    VI.,    and     Naples    is     ruled    by    the 
Hohenstauffens. 


HISTORICAL    SUMMARY.  7 

1264      Ruled  by  the  house  of  Anjou. 

1382.     Charles  Durazzo. 

1416.     Alphonso    of    Arragon.        Franco-Italian    war    for 

possession  of  Naples.      Naples  a   province    of 

Spain  under  Ferdinand  the  Catholic.    Intolerable 

misery  of  the  people. 
1647.     Insurrection  of  Masaniello. 
1700.     Naples  passes  to  Austrian  rule. 
1735.     Charles  the  Bourbon  (Infanta  of  Spain)  becomes 

King  of  Naples.     Revival  of  prosperity. 
175 1.     Charles  becomes  King  of  Spain;  his  son  Ferdinand, 

King  of  Naples,  marries  Maria  Carolina. 
1799.     French  Republican  armies  enter  Naples. 
1806.     Joseph  Buonaparte  king. 
1808.     Joachim  Murat  king. 
18 1 5.     Restoration  of  Ferdinand. 
1825.     Francis  I. 
1830.     Ferdinand  II. 
1858.     Francis  II. 
i860.     Expulsion  of  the  old  dynasty. — Garibaldi   enters 

Naples,  which,  by  popular  suffrage,  is  annexed 

to  United  Italy. 
1 86 1.     Victor  Emmanuel  II. 
1878.     Humbert  I. 
1900.     Victor  Emmanuel  III. 

Naples  is,  perhaps,  the  loveliest  spot  in  Europe.  The 
beautiful  bay,  reflecting  the  buildings  in  its  azure  waters ;  the 
picturesque  amphitheatre  formed  by  the  verdant,  villa-sprinkled 
hills  that  enclose  the  city  ;  mighty  Vesuvius  on  the  right ; 
the  fair  shores,  sweeping  round  on  the  one  hand  by  Portici 
and  Castellamniare  to  Capri,  and  on  the  other  by  Pozzuoli 
and  Misenum  to  romantic  Ischia— of  all  this  most  travellers 
have  some  previous  idea  from  description  ;  but  the  universal 
verdict  of  visitors  is,  that  neither  pen  nor  pencil  ever  gave 
any  real  conception  of  the  surpassing  loveliness  of  Naples 
and  its  Bay  as  seen  from  the  sea. 

In  the  days  of  our  forefathers  a  visit  to  Naples  was  the 
privilege  of  the  few.  Of  those  who  ran  through  Europe 
for  pleasure,  or  education,  or  even  for  business,  a  very 
small  proportion  ever  got  so  far  south  as  this.  Now  things 
are  so  changed  that  in  the  next  generation  he  who  has  not 
seen  Naples  will  hardly  pretend  to  have  travelled  at  all. 


8  NAPLES. 

There  are  two  ways  of  arriving  at  Naples — sea  and  land. 
"  Land "  now  means  railway ;  and,  except  for  a  few  short 
local  lines,  there  is  but  one  railway  station,  humorously 
called  central.  This,  in  accordance  with  the  old  super- 
stition, which  regarded  railways  as  a  dangerous  innovation, 
is  situated  as  far  as  possible  from  the  town  it  is  supposed 
to  serve.  Moreover,  it  is  outside  the  eastern  boundary  of 
the  town,  and  most  visitors  take  up  their  abode  in  the 
West  End. 

In  the  front  of  the  station  a  road,  called  Corso  Garibaldi, 
runs  right  and  left.  The  side  of  this  road  opposite  the 
station  coincides  pretty  nearly  with  the  eastern  boundary 
of  the  city  proper.  Until  quite  recently  there  were  only 
two  practicable  entrances  through  this  boundary ;  and  both 
of  these  led  into  streets  so  crowded  and  narrow  that  the 
cabmen  themselves  preferred  to  take  the  traveller  round 
the  outside  of  the  town  by  one  of  two  roads.  The  first 
and  favourite  of  these  is  the  lower  road ;  by  this,  following 
the  Corso  Garibaldi  to  the  left,  is  soon  seen  the  Porta  del 
Carmine  with  its  two  heavy  towers  (one  of  the  tw-o  afore- 
said openings)  and  passing  outside  this,  the  seaside  road 
which  is  the  main  thoroughfare  between  Naples  and  Portici 
is  almost  immediately  reached.  Here,  turning  to  the  right, 
the  road  lies  between  the  sea  and  the  old  town.  In  the 
corner  between  the  Corso  Garibaldi  and  the  seaside  road  is  the 
Church  of  S.  Maria  del  Carmine,  the  south-eastern  extremity 
of  the  old  Mercato,  the  chief  scene  of  the  revolt  (1647)  under 
Masaniello.  Bulwer  Lytton,  in  his  "Zanoni,"  calls  this  the 
most  Neapolitan  quarter  of  the  town,  and  this  is  still  true, 
notwithstanding  the  trams,  and  the  railway  Une  on  the  left 
which  serves  for  goods  traffic  to  the  port.  Proceeding 
westward,  on  the  right,  runs  the  long  street  of  the  Duomo. 
The  opening  at  this  end  was  cut,  but  a  few  years  since, 
through  the  quarter  of  Pendino,  an  intricate  nest  of  dens, 
whose  gloom  and  squalor,  especially  in  times  of  pestilence, 
were  not  less  tragic  in  reality  than  in  appearance.  This 
opening  was  a  very  important  detail  in  the  great  work  of 
nisanamenio  begun  some  years  ago.  The  road  next  passes 
between  the  Port  and  the  Custom  House.  The  entrance, 
known  as  the  Immacolatella,  to  the  landing  places  for 
passenger  ships,  is  followed  by  the  large  harbour  for  merchant 
ships ;  a  great  part  of  the  imported  goods  is  conveyed  in 
barges  under  this  road  into  tlie  pool  of  the   Custom    House, 


GENERAL   SURVEY.  9 

on  the  right.  Opposite  is  a  row  of  houses  called  Piliero, 
occupied  entirely  by  shipbrokers  and  agents,  insurance  and 
banking  houses  of  various  nationalities.  At  the  end  of 
Piliero,  in  front,  is  the  entrance  to  the  Arsenal,  to  the  left 
lies  the  mole  with  its  lighthouse  at  the  end.  Taking  the 
road  to  the  right,  the  spacious  square  called  the  Piazza  del 
Municipio  is  entered.  Here  the  bustle  of  commercial  traffic 
begins  to  abate,  the  roads  are  wide  and  the  buildings  have 
some  pretensions  to  architectural  elegance.  On  the  left 
lies  the  Castel  Nuovo,  concealed  but  a  few  years  ago 
by  an  unseemly  if  picturesque  assemblage  of  small  theatrical 
booths.  The  approach  to  the  castle  from  the  Strada  San 
Carlo  will  soon  be  finished  and  a  fine  old  portico  has  already 
been  uncovered.  On  the  right  is  the  modest  facade  of  the 
Teatro  del  Fondo,  now  called  Mercadante,  rich  in 
traditions  of  musical  art.  In  the  middle  of  the  square  is 
a  bronze  equestrian  statue  of  Victor  Emmanuel.  The  broad 
road  to  the  right,  called  Piazza  Medina,  leads  to  the  Post 
Office,  but  following  that  to  the  left,  and  ascending  by  an 
easy  slope,  the  north  front  of  the  Castel  Nuovo  is  passed, 
then  the  gardens  of  the  Royal  Palace,  at  the  gate  of  which 
are  the  two  bronze  horses  presented  by  the  Czar  Nicholas. 
The  road  now  narrows,  passing  between  the  classic  portico 
of  the  great  S.  Carlo  Theatre  on  the  left,  and,  on  the  right, 
the  main  front  of  the  new  Qalleria  Umberto  Primo. 
Emerging  into  the  Piazza  5.  Ferdinando,  a  central  pc^nt 
(in  the  sense  in  which  Charing  Cross  is  central  m  London) 
marks  the  junction  between  the  city,  or  old  town,  and  the 
western  or  fashionable  quarter,  in  which  most  visitors  take 
up  their  residence 

Before  investigating  the  latter  it  will  be  well  to  complete 
the  survey  of  the  old  town. 

From  the  Piazza  S.  Ferdinando  runs,  in  a  northerly  direction, 
the  main  street  of  the  town,  its  familiar  old  name  Toledo  being 
gradually  replaced  by  its  official  new  name  of  Via  Roma. 
The  Church  of  S.  Ferdinando,  on  the  right,  from  its  ass(x:ia- 
tions,  and  from  the  funereal  and  commemorative  solemnities 
of  which  it  has  so  long  been  the  scene,  resisted  the  innovations 
of  1889,  when  the  labyrinth  of  disreputable  vicoli,  nests  of 
crime  and  pestilence,  which  lay  in  its  rear,  were  swept  away 
to  make  room  for  the  great  (ialleria,  which  has  also  an  opening 
in  the  Via  Roma.  This  used  to  be  called  the  "  noisiest  street  in 
Europe,"  and  it  only  enjoys  a  partial  respite  in  the  cessation  of 


lO  NAPLES. 

wlieel  traffic  on  Good  Fridays  and  the  preceding  Thursday 
evening.  It  was  also  the  principal  scene  of  the  almost 
obsolete  carnival  processions  ;  and  it  is  still  chosen  for  the 
starting-i^oint  of  the  four-in-hands  and  other  carriages  which 
attend  the  races.  The  right-hand  side  of  the  Via  Roma,  as 
we  turn  from  S.  Ferdinando,  nearly  coincides  with  the  eastern 
boundary  of  the  old  town.  About  the  middle  of  its  length  is 
the  Largo  della  Carita,  in  which  is  the  statue  of  Baron  Carlo 
Poerio,  the  patriot.  Here,  on  the  left,  is  the  crowded  quarter 
of  Pignasecca,  rife  with  ])opular  traditions,  in  which  are 
situated  the  terminus  of  the  Cuniana  railway,  the  shrine  of  the 
black  Madonna  worshipped  by  the  Camorra,  and  a  noble 
hospital  to  which  are  brought  sufferers  from  accidents  of 
various  kinds,  including,  alas  !  the  too  numerous  cases  of 
stabbing  and  wounding  among  the  populace. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  Via  Roma  is  an  entrance  to  the  present 
market.  The  road  here  begins  to  ascend,  presently  running 
into  the  Piazza  Dante  with  a  statue  of  the  poet  in  the 
centre.  On  the  light  is  the  facade  of  the  great  public  school 
of  Naples,  the  Liceo  Vittorio  Emanuele,  occupying  what 
was  the  north-west  corner  of  the  old  Merca/ello,  on  which 
have  been  enacted  many  tragic  scenes  of  Neapolitan  history. 
Beyond  is  seen  the  Porta  Alba.  Following  the  main  road, 
on  the  right  are  passed  various  buildings  dedicated  to  fine  art 
exhibitions ;  also  the  small  Galleria,  called  after  the  Prince 
of  Naples  ;  and,  beyond  this,  the  Museum. 

The  broad  road  to  the  right,  called  Piazza  Cavour,  skirts 
the  northern  boundary  of  the  old  city.  On  the  left,  at  the 
end  of  the  gardens,  is  a  road  leading  to  the  school  of  the 
Miracoli,  for  girls  of  noble  family.  On  the  right  is  the  Porta 
S.  Qennaro.  At  this  point  the  Piazza  Cavour  terminates,  and 
there  is  a  choice  of  roads.  The  road  straight  forward  is  called 
Strada  Foria  ;  the  first  to  the  right  is  the  Sirada  del  Diionio, 
leading  to  the  Cathedral.  The  second  to  the  right  leads 
to  the  Church  of  S.  Giovanni  a  Carbonara,  to  the  Porta 
Capuana,  and  the  Castel  Capuano,  and  thence  back  to  the 
railway  station  by  the  Corso  Garibaldi. 

This  completes  the  circuit  of  the  old  town,  the  greater  part 
of  which  consisted  of  enormous  palazzi  of  the  nobles,  where 
they  lived  with  their  families  and  dependents.  The  palazzi 
were  divided  from  each  other  by  very  narrow  streets,  and 
usually  contained  in  their  own  premises  spacious  courtyards, 
as  well  as  chapels,  and   sometimes  even  large  churches.     It  is 


GENERAL   SURVEY.  II 

obvious  that  this  arrangement  gave  great  advantage  to  the 
nobles  who  owned  the  palazzi  in  feudal  times  in  case  of 
popular  tumults.  Another  consequence  has  survived  those 
times.  The  families  of  the  servants  and  dependents  exercised 
their  small  industries  on  the  ground  floor,  just  as  in  ihe 
country  the  peasantry  crowded  for  protection  under  the  walls 
of  the  castle.  When,  under  the  Bourbons,  the  nobles  quitted 
their  castles  for  the  pleasures  of  court  life  they  thus  reinforced 
the  naturally  gregarious  habits  of  the  poor ;  and  this  explains 
that  strange  juxtaposition  of  splendour  with  squalor  that 
distinguishes  these  regions^.  Any  old  house  falling  into  decay 
was  soon  occupied  by  the  surplus  of  the  poor,  and  thus  were 
formed  those  numerous  hives  of  disease  and  crime  of  which  we 
have  already  mentioned  two  or  three. 

After  the  cholera  of  1884  the  authorities  recognised  the 
pressing  necessity  of  two  things — -an  improved  water  supply, 
and  new  thoroughfares  in  the  old  town  •  of  the  latter  the  most 
important  is  that  called  the  Corso  Umberto  Primo  (Rettifilo), 
opened  in  1897,  which  has  served  the  double  purpose  of  clearing 
out  some  of  the  worst  quarters,  and  affording  a  direct  com- 
munication between  the  railway  and  the  west  central  district. 
Entering  this  immediately  opposite  the  station  the  route  lies 
along  a  wide  and  straight  road  flanked  with  handsome  new 
buildings,  and  (branching  to  the  left  from  the  Piazza  della  Borsa) 
terminating  in  the  old  street  of  S.  Giuseppe,  where  a  slight 
congestion  of  traffic  shows  that  something  remains  to  be  done. 
The  road  to  the  right  leads  to  the  General  Post  Ofifice,  and 
beyond  that  to  several  objects  of  interest — the  Churches  of 
Sant'  Anna  dei  Lombardi  or  Monte  Oliveto  ;  S.  Chiara, 
the  Gesu  Nuovo  ;  S.  Domenico  Maggiore,  etc.  But  turning 
to  the  left  we  pass  through  the  Piazza  Medina  with  the 
statue  of  Mercadante  and  the  Church  of  the  Incoronata  running 
into  the  Piazza  del  Municipio,  and  so  again  to  S.  I'^erdinando. 
This  completes  tlie  general  topography  of  the  old  town. 

Hitherto  little  has  been  seen  of  the  beauties  of  nature,  but 
on  the  other  hand  much  of  the  characteristics  of  the  motley 
population  of  Naples,  of  which  the  busiest  street  is  the  Via 
Roma,  formerly  called  the  Toledo.  The  famous  lazzarone 
of  yore  is  no  longer  in  evidence,  happy  and  lialf  naked, 
but  more  of  family  life  in  the  open  air  is  to  be  seen  in  Naples 
than  in  any  other  city  in  Europe.  Hawkers,  newspaper- sellers 
and  itinerant  vendors  of  eatal)les,  such  as  fish,  macaroni,  etc., 
swarm  in  the  streets. 


12  NAPLES. 

The  traveller  will  miss  the  traditional  gaiety  and  light- 
heartedness  that  finds  its  spontaneous  expression  in  dance  and 
song.  Those  fragmentary  buffooneries  witnessed  here  and 
there  in  the  streets  are  no  longer  the  expression  of  exuberance, 
but  mere  catch-pennies.  Notwithstanding  the  spread  of 
education  professional  letter-writers  are  still  to  be  found  under 
the  portico  of  S.  Carlo. 

The  older  portion  of  Naples,  of  which  we  have  just  taken  a 
survey,  is  divided  from  the  western  or  modern  quarter  by  a 
ridge  of  rock  running  from  the  heights  of  S.  Elmo  on  the  north 
of  the  town  down  to  ihe  Castel  Nuovo,  which  is  a  conspicuous 
object  in  the  coast  line  of  the  bay,  dividing  the  latter  into  two 
distinct  curves.  Anciently  there  was  but  one  way  of  passing 
this  ridge  without  climbing  up  one  side  and  down  the  other ; 
and  that  was  the  narrow  cutting  called  the  Strada  di  Lhiaia. 
Standing  in  the  Piazza  S.  Ferdinando  with  the  back  to  S.  Carlo 
Theatre  and  looking  westward,  on  the  right  is  the  Via  Roma  ; 
on  the  left  the  royal  palace  ;  all  round  an  intricate  medley  of 
trams,  cabs,  omnibuses  and  carts  ;  and  immediately  opposite  is 
the  entrance  to  the  Strada  di  Chiaia.  The  steepness  of  the 
hill  through  which  it  is  cut  is  disguised  on  this  side  by  the 
buildings  with  which  it  is  covered.  At  the  top  of  it  is  the 
street  called  Monte  di  l)io,  leading  to  the  Pizzofalcone. 
By  the  Strada  di  Chiaia  the  street  passes  under  the  bridge 
which  connects  the  two  halves  of  the  severed  ridge.  Further 
down  is  the  Teatro  Sannazaro ;  the  road  then  bears  to  the  left. 
The  first  turning  to  the  right  leads  to  the  new  Via  del  Mille, 
where  is  the  British  Consulate  General.  Below  this  is  the 
Piazza  dei  Martiri,  so  called  in  memory  of  the  patriots 
whose  names  are  inscribed  on  the  column  in  the  centre. 
In  the  left-hand  upper  corner  is  the  Scottish  Church. 
Thos.  Cook  and  Son's  Offices  are  in  the  Via  Chiatamone 
(Galleria  Vittoria)  leading  from  the  Piazza  dei  Martiri  towards 
the  sea.  Straight  on,  through  the  short  street  Calabritto,  is 
the  Piazza  Vittoria  ;  to  the  left  towers  the  west  front  of  Monte 
di  Dio  ;  in  front  is  the  sea.  To  the  right  there  are  two  parallel 
roads  westward.  The  first  of  these,  where  the  tramway  runs,  is 
called  the  Riviera  di  Chiaia.  The  other  road,  called  the 
Via  Caracciolo,  runs  close  to  the  sea,  and  is  used  as  the 
fashionable  drive,  about  sunset.  From  this  is  obtained  a 
beautiful  view  of  the  whole  sweep  of  the  western  bay,  with  the 
promontory  and  hill  of  Posilipo.  Between  this  drive  and  the 
Riviera  lies  the  Villa  Nazionale,  or  public  garden,  a  delight- 


GENERAL    SURVEY.  I  3 

ful  pedestrian  lounge.  Among  the  trees  are  many  fine  statues, 
ancient  and  modern.  Here  is  the  granite  basin  brought  from 
Paestum  (it  stands  on  the  site  formerly  occupied  by  the 
Farnese  bull,  now  in  the  museum).  About  half  way  along  the 
garden  is  the  Aquarium  ;  and  opposite  this  an  opening  into 
the  Riviera  leads  to  the  street  of  S.  Pasquale,  where  is  the 
English  Church. 

At  the  end  of  the  Villa  the  road  emerges  on  a  square  called 
the  Piazza  Principe  de  Napoli,  at  the  left-hand  corner  of 
which,  by  the  sea,  is  the  Grand  Hotel.  Beyond  this,  in  front, 
is  a  district  now  occupied  by  elegant  palazzi,  which  less  than 
twenty  years  ago  was  a  beach  covered  by  fishermen's  boats. 
To  our  right  is  the  tram-line,  following  which,  still  westward, 
for  a  few  yards  is  the  tramways  junction  known  as  La 
Torretta.  One  line  following  the  road  to  the  left  runs  to 
Posilipo,  the  other  line  runs  straight  up  the  slope  of  Piedi  = 
grotta;  both  lines  served  by  electric  traction.  In  front  is  a 
conspicuous  object,  the  mouth  of  the  new  tunnel  through 
which  one  branch  of  the  line  runs  to  Pozziwli.  At  Mergellina, 
the  west-end  of  the  town,  there  has  been  recently  opened 
a  large  new  station  of  the  direct  electric  railway  from  Rome 
and  a  smaller  one  for  the  same  line  at  Parco  Margherita, 
a  little  to  the  north  of  the  Villa  Nazionale.  In  the 
middle  of  this  tunnel  is  a  lift  leading  to  numerous  villages 
on  the  hill  top.  Just  at  the  entrance  to  this  tunnel  a  turn  to 
the  left  brings  one  to  "Virgil's  Tomb,"  and  to  the  famous  old 
grotto  which  is  now  used  chiefly  for  carts  and  goats.  In  the 
street  of  Piedigrotta  is  the  large  church  (see  pp.  36,  60  and  62) 
dedicated  to  the  Madonna,  a  pilgrimage  to  which  in  1745  was 
the  origin  of  a  curious  popular  festa  every  7th  of  September. 
Near  this  the  tram-line  divides,  the  right-hand  branch  follows 
the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele,  a  road-  begun  in  the  last 
years  of  the  Bourbons,  and  finished  after  the  revolution  ot 
i860.  It  runs  along  the  slopes  of  the  Vomero,  which  forms 
the  back  of  the  whole  western  amphitheatre,  and  gradually 
rises  with  many  curves,  the  views  of  the  sea  to  the  right,  and 
the  hill  to  the  left  ever  increasing  in  beauty.  Presently  is 
reached  the  station  of  the  Cumana  Railway,  which  serves 
the  district  of  Pozzuoli  and  Baia,  with  boat  traffic  to  Ischia. 
The  Naples  terminus  of  this  line  is  at  Monte  Santo  in  the 
market  of  the  Pignasecca  to  the  left  of  the  V^ia  Roma.  A  little 
further  up  is  a  road  to  the  right  leading  to  the  Via  Amedeo,  a 
fashionable  neighbourhood,  favoured  by  English  residents,  and 


14  NAPLES. 

leading  through  the  Via  dei  Mille,  where  is  the  British  Consulate, 
to  the  Piazza  dei  Martiri. 

Proceeding  up  the  Corso  the  International  Hospital  is  passed 
on  the  left,  then  several  hotels  and  the  International  School 
for  Young  Ladies,  then  the  station  of  the  Funicolare  which 
leads  from  the  Parco  Margherita  and  Via  Amedeo  in  the 
valley  to  the  right,  to  the  new  village  of  the  Vomero  on  the 
hill  to  the  left.  Be)ond  this,  is  a  district  called  Cariati, 
which  is  at  the  junction  of  the  ridge  that  divides  the  town 
with  the  hill  which  lies  at  the  back  of  it.  Emerging  from 
the  houses  and  .still  following  the  tram-line  are  unfolded  a 
series  of  panoramic  views  of  the  old  town,  the  port,  the 
Campanian  plains,  the  hills  beyond,  and,  conspicuous  above 
all,  Vesuvius,  with  the  villages  of  Portici  and  Resina  at  its 
base,  and  further  to  the  right  Castellammare  and  the  Sorren- 
tine  peninsula;  the  view  being  terminated  by  the  island  of 
Capri.  Passing  a  second  Funicolare  which  connects  Monte 
Santo  below  with  5.  Elmo  and  S.  Martino  above,  the  road 
reaches  the  Piazza  Salvator  Rosa,  where  the  Corso  Vittorio 
Emanuele  ends.  Here  the  hill  of  Infrascata  to  the  left  forms 
a  quick  communication  by  electric  tramway  between  the  city 
and  the  heights  of  S.  Martino.  The  other  branch  of  the  tram- 
way from  Salvator  Rosa  leads  down  to  the  Museum. 

The  traveller  has  now  taken  a  general  survey  of  all  Naples 
old  and  new. 

The  following  details  should  not  be  omitted  : — 

Following  the  Via  Roma  straight  up  the  hill  past  the 
Museum  is  crossed  the  bridge  of  the  Sanita,  made  by  the 
Bourbon  kings  over  a  swamp  for  the  purpose  of  reaching  the 
village  of  Capodimonte,  the  royal  palace  and  park  which  will 
well  repay  the  time  of  a  visit  {see  p.  53). 

Secondly,  proceeding  along  Foria,  beyond  the  point  where 
the  road  formerly  turned  into  the  old  town  on  the  left,  is  the 
Botanic  Garden,  after  that  the  Reclusorio  or  Poor-house. 
Here  the  road  divides  ;  that  to  the  left  leads  up  to  the  Campo 
di  Marte.  used  chiefly  for  races  and  reviews,  and  formerly  by 
the  English  colony  for  cricket.  The  lower,  or  right-hand  road 
from  Reclusorio,  leads  to  the  old  and  new  English  cemeteries 
and  to  the  great  Neapolitan  burying-ground. 

Thirdly,  from  the  Piazza  S.  Ferdinando  the  traveller  who 
does  not  care  to  go  through  the  crowded  Strada  di  Chiaia  can 
take  the  road  to  the  left,  following  the  tram-line  in  the  direction 
of  the  sea.     On  the  left  is  the  west  front  of  the  royal  palace  ; 


CHURCHES.  15 

the  great  square  to  the  right  is  the  Piazza  Plebiscite,  where, 
in  i860,  the  popular  vote  annexed  Naples  to  the  kingdom  of 
United  Italy.  I'he  church  (S.  Francesco  di  PaoJa),  with  the 
colonnade,  was  built  after  the  peace  of  1815.  In  the  left-hand 
further  corner,  in  the  Piazza  Paggeria,  is  an  Industrial 
Museum  and  school  (open  daily  except  Sundays,  10-4).  Past 
the  royal  palace,  on  the  left  is  seen  the  Arsenal,  in  the  hollow  ; 
and  then  comes  the  once  famous  region  of  5anta  Lucia, 
which  has  become  a  thing  of  the  past,  on  account  of  the  new 
quarter  built  on  land  recently  reclaimed  from  the  sea.  At  the 
bottom  of  the  Strada  Sta.  Lucia  (in  which  is  a  sulphurous 
spring)  the  road  bears  round  to  the  right,  passing  under  the 
south  front  of  the  hill  of  Monte  di  Dio.  Anciently  there  was 
no  road  here,  as  the  promontory  ran  straight  down  into  the 
rock  on  which  is  built  the  Castel  dell'  Ovo.  Following  this 
road  (where  are  situated  the  hotels  Excelsior,  Sta.  Lucia,  du 
Vesuve,  Continental,  and  others),  which,  though  roundabout, 
is  more  agreeable  than  the  Strada  di  Chiaia,  the  visitor  soon 
arrives  at  the  Piazza  Vittoria. 

The  Duomo. 

The  Cathedral  (dedicated  to  St.  Januarius)  stands  in  the 
Strada  del  Duomo,  on  the  site  of  a  temple  of  Neptune,  of  which 
the  columns  of  granite  and  ancient  marble  found  in  the  present 
structure  probably  formed  a  portion.  It  was  commenced  by 
Masuccio,  under  Charles  I.  of  Anjou,  in  1272,  and  completed 
in  1323.  In  1456  it  was  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  an 
earthquake,  and  was  afterwards  rebuilt  by  Alphonso  I.  Not- 
withstanding frequent  alterations  made  during  the  17th  and 
1 8th  centuries,  it  still  retains  much  of  its  original  Franco- 
Gothic  character. 

The  Church  is  a  Basilica,  having  a  Gothic  nave  and  two 
aisles  separated  by  two  ranges  of  pila.sters.  The  Holy  Water 
Font,  of  green  basalt,  is  evidently,  by  its  Bacchanalian 
emblems,  of  pagan  origin.  Above  the  principal  gate  are  (1.) 
the  tomb  of  Charles  I.  d'Anjou,  and  (r.)  tomb  of  Charles 
Martel,  King  of  Hungary,  and  his  wife,  Clementina,  daughter 
of  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg.  Over  the  side  entrances  are 
pictures  by  Vasari.  The  ceiling  is  adorned  with  paintings  by 
Sa>ifafede  (square),  and  Viiiceiizio  da  Forti  (oval).  The 
frescoes  of  Doctors  of  the  Church,  Patron  Saints  of  the  City, 
and  the  Twelve  Apostles  above  the  arches  of  the  nave,  are  by 


1 6  NAPLES. 

Luca    Giorda/io.     S.   Cirillo    and    the    S.    Cri.sostomo    are   by 
Solitnetia. 

Passing  along  the  left  aisle  we  find  in  the  .second  chapel  — 

Incredulity  of  S.  Thomas      .  .  .         Marco  da  Siena. 

Bas-relief.,  the  Entombment  .  .     Giovanni  da  N'ola. 

In  the  fourth  chapel  (that  of  the  Seripandi  family) — 

The  Assumption  (much  restored  in  parts)       .  Periigino. 

In  the  left  transept — 

Tombs    of    Andrew,     King    of     Hungary,    and    of    Pope 

Innocent  IV. 
The  entrance  to  the  Sacristy   next   presents  itself.     Within 
are  numerous  portraits  of  Archbishops  of  Naples. 

On  the  left  of  the  high  altar  is  the  chapel  of  the  Capece 
Galeota  family  ;  over  the  altar  is- — 

Our  Saviour  between  SS.  Januarius  and  Athanasius. 

lieneath  the  high  altar,  down  a  double  flight  of  marble  steps, 
is  the  Confessio  (fee  i  1.)  or  Shrine  of  5an  Qennaro,  built 
l)y  Cardinal  Carafa  in  1497.  Ten  Ionic  columns  support  the 
marble  roof.  The  saint's  remains  are  beneath  the  altar,  and 
close  by  is  a  kneeling  statue  of  Cardinal  Carafa. 

To  the  right  of  the  choir  is  the  Tocco  Chapel. 

Tomb  of  S.  Asprenas. 
Frescoes  (scenes  from  his  life). 

In  the  corner  of  the  right  transept  (fee)  the  Minutolo 
Chapel  (13th  century),  designed  by  Masnccio  — 

Passion  of  our  Lord  (the  upper  paint- 
ings) .....        T'/niumso  degli  Stcfani. 

Members  of  Minutoli  family  (the  low^  r 

paintings)  .  ....  Unknown. 

The  latter  are  curious  for  costume,  but,  unfortunately,  have 
I)een  painted  over. 

Altar  .  .  .  .  .  .    Pie  fro  degli  Stefani. 

Tomb  of  Cardinal  Minutolo,  and  Gothic 

Canopy     ........  Baboccio. 

Tomb  of  Archbishops  of  the  family. 

Readers  of  Boccaccio  will  call  to  mind  the  adventure  of  the 
Jockey  of  Perugia,  who  came  by  night  to  this  chapel  to  steal  a 
ring  from  the  archbishop's  corpse. 


CHURCHES.  ly 

In  the  nave,  notice  the  Archbishop's  chair.  The  rich 
foHation  of  the  columns  and  elegant  tracery  of  the  arch  of  the 
nave  are  considered  almost  unique. 

In  the  right  aisle  the  Brancia  Chapel. 

Tomb  of  Cardinal  Carbone  and  Clothic 

Canop)-  ......  Baboicio. 

The  Caracciolo    Chapel    contains   a 

wooden  crucifix        ....  Alcm/ccio. 

.\  door  out  of  the  left  aisle  conducts  to  the  Basilica  of 
Santa  Restituta  (fee  2  1.),  the  ancient  cathedral  for  the  Greek 
ritual.  The  ancient  Corinthian  columns  of  the  nave,  and  two 
white  marble  columns  by  the  Tribune,  are  from  the  Temple  of 
Apollo,  which  formerly  occupied  this  site.  This  church  dates 
from  the  7th  century;  restored  in  the  17th;  but  some  of  the 
pointed  arches  in  the  nave  and  the  Gothic  chapels  in  the  right 
aisle  are  part  of  the  original  structure.     Near  the  entrance  are 

Tomb  of  Mazzocchi  (scholar). 

Tomb  of  Canonico  Jorio  (antiquarian). 

Observe  on  the  roof  of  the  nave, 

S.  Restituta's  body   carried  by  angels 

in  a  boat  to  Ischia  ....  Li/ca  Giordano. 

Behind  the  high  altar  in  tlie  choir, 

Virgin  and  Archangel   Michael  and   S. 

Restituta  .....     Silvcsfro  de'  Ihioiii. 

On  the  left  of  the  chur(-h  is  the  Chapel  of  Santa  Maria 
del  Principio. 

Ancient  mosaic,   Virgin  and   Child,  called   del    Principio,  as 
being  the  first  picture  of  the  Virgin  venerated  in  Naples. 
"  Bas-reliefs^  parts  of  8th-century  pulpits,  representing  scenes 
from  lives  of  SS.  Januarius,  Eustatius,  and  Jose[)h. 

At  the  end  of  the  right  aisle  is  the  Chapel  of  S.  Giovanni  in 
b'onte,  once  the  Baptistery,  the  cupola  of  which  is  covered  with 
early  mosaics  and  paintings. 

From  the  right  aisle  of  the  church  we  enter  the  Chapel  of 
St.  Januarius  (or  Cappella  del  Tesoro).  A  vow  made  during 
the  plague  of  1527  was  the  origin  of  this  edifice.  It  was 
conmienced  in   1608,   and  completed  at  a  cost   of  a  million 


1 8  NAPLES. 

ducats,  in  twenty-nine  years.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  Greek 
cross.  Notice  the  splendid  bronze  grille,  designed  by 
Fansai^a,  which  occupied  forty-five  years  of  patient  work. 

7  altars  and  42  marble  columns. 

19  bronze  statues  of  saints. 

Sick  waiting  at  Tomb  of  S.  Gennaro     .  Domeuichifw. 

Martyrdom  of  S.  Gennaro    ...  „ 

Dead  man  raised  up  at   Tomb    of    b. 

Gennaro  .....  „ 

Sick    cured    with    Oil    from    Lamp    at 

Tomb  of  S.  Gennaro        ...  „ 

S.  Gennaro  curing  a  Demoniac    .  .  ,, 

The  latter  was  comi)leted  by  Spagnoletto. 
S.  Gennaro  leaving  Fiery  Furnace  (in 

r.  chapel)         .....  Spagnotetto. 

Frescoes  of  roof,  lunettes,  etc.      .         .  Doinenichino. 

Numerous  Frescoes  from  life  of  S.  Gennaro. 

In  the  Sacristy  of  the  Tesoro, 

S.  Gennaro  curing  a  Demoniac    .  .  Stanzioni. 

Several  Paintings         ....  L.  Giordano. 

Rich  collection  of  Plate  and  Vestments. 
Silver  bust  of  S.   Gennaro,   covered   with   valuable   offerings 

from  various  monarchs.     Notice  rich  parure   of  diamonds 

and  emeralds  from  Joseph  Buonaparte. 
3  silver  statues,  and  45  bust  of  saints,  etc. 
S.  Gennaro's  Martyrdom  (pencil  draw'ing)  Domenichitio. 

High    Altar,   with   silver    relief — Arrival   of   Remains    of   S. 

Gennaro. 

Behind  the  altar  is  a  taliernacle  containing  the  two  phials  of 
the  saint's  blood.  For  times  when  the  ceremony  of  lique- 
faction takes  place,  see  next  page. 

S.  Januarius  (S.  Gennaro)  was  of  ancient  Roman  descent, 
became  a  Christian  in  his  early  years,  and  was  made  first 
Bishop  of  Benevento  m  a.d.  304.  Januarius  and  his  friends, 
Socius  and  Proculus,  seem  to  have  passed  unscathed  through 
the  fearful  persecutions  of  Diocletian  and  Maximilian.  But  on 
the  accession  of  Galerius,  Timotheus,  the  pro-praetor  of 
Campania,  determined  to  stay  the  labours  of  the  Christian 
bishop.  He  summoned  Januarius  and  his  deacons  before  him, 
ordered  them  to  recant,  and  on  their  refusal  condemned  them 


CHURCHES.  19 

to  be  burned.  They  were  cast  into  a  fiery  furnace ;  sweet 
music  was  heard  in  the  midst  of  the  flames  ;  and  when,  at  the 
command  of  Timotheus,  the  furnace  was  opened,  fire  leaped 
forth  and  destroyed  his  soldiers,  while  the  saints  remained 
unhurt.  Other  miracles  followed,  but  did  not  preserve  the  life 
of  the  saint,  who  perished  by  the  sword  at  the  Solfatara,  on 
the  morning  of  September  19,  a.d.  305.  Two  phials  full  of 
the  blood  of  S.  Januarius  were  preserved,  which,  according 
to  tradition,  liquefies  accordingly  three  times  a  year,  on  the 
I  St  Saturday  in  May,  September  19th  and  December  i6th. 
When  the  "miracle"  takes  place,  the  head  is  placed  on  the 
altar,  in  a  magnificent  shrine,  together  with  the  crystal  vase 
containing  the  two  phials.  Only  one  phial  is  now  exhibited, 
the  contents  of  the  other  having  been  carried  off  to  Madrid  by 
Charles  III.,  where,  in  the  absence  of  the  head,  the  miracle  only 
takes  place  on  the  anniversary  of  the  martyrdom. 

No  special  permission  is  required  to  inspect  the  Tesoro  of 
San  Gennaro — a  small  tip  is  all  that  is  necessary. 


5anta  Chiara. 

(Strada  Trinita  Maggiore.) 

More  like  a  long  hall  than  a  church — 270  feet  long  by 
104  feet  broad.  Commenced  in  the  Gothic  style  in  the  reign 
of  Robert  of  Anjou;  completed  by  Masuccio  II.,  in 
Romanesque,  circ.  1320.  Overloaded  with  excessive  orna- 
mentation in  1752.  At  this  date  the  frescoes  of  Giotto,  with 
one  exception,  were  whitewashed  to  make  the  church  look 
lighter.  The  only  remnant  is  the  Madonna  delle  Grazie  (3rd 
pier  on  the  left).     On  the  left  of  the  principal  entrance — 

Tomb  of  Onofrio  di  Penna  (Secretary  of  King 

Ladislaus).     Now  an  altar      ....      Baboccio. 

„  AT    1  T-   .L         J  [  Francesco,  son  of 

tresco,  Madonna  Enthroned  .         s    ^r     j      c- 

'  |_  Maestro  Simone. 

Queen  of  Sheba  (on  roof)  ....  Seb.  Conca. 

David  dancing  before  the  Ark  (on  roof).  ,, 

David  sacrificing        ......  Bonito 

S.  Chiara  puttmg  Saracens  to  Flight  at 

Assist  (on  roof)       ....        Francesco  di  Muro. 

Four  Doctors  of  the  Church       ....  Bonito. 

The  Four  Virtues       ...  .         .  Conca. 


20  NAPLES. 

Holy  Sacrament  (on  roof  over  high  altar)  Francesco  di  Muro. 
King  Robert  at  the  Building  of  the  Church 

(over  principal  entrance)  .....   Ibid. 

The  5an  Felice  Chapel  (8th) — 

Crucifixion  .......  Lanfranco. 

Ancient    Sarcophagus,    with    bas-relief  of  the    Marriage    of 

Protesilaus   and   Laodamia,  used  as  the  tomb  of  Cesare 

San  Felice,  Duke  of  Rodi, 

The  Balzo  Chapel  contains  tombs  of  that  family.  The 
Cito  Chapel,  sculpture  by  San  Alartino. 

The  mediaeval  tombs  of  Anjou  Princes,  etc.,  give  the  chief 
interest  to  this  church. 

Gothic  monument  of  Robert  the  Wise, 

Pancius  and  Johannes. 

The  sitting  figure  represents  Robert  as  a  King,  the  recumbent 
one  as  a  Franciscan  friar.  It  is  said  that  Petrarcli  supplied 
the  inscription. 

Tomb  of  Charles  the  Illustrious. 
„  Mary  of  Valois. 

„  Mary,  Empress  of  Constantinople. 

„  Agnese    and    Clementina,     daughters     of    fore- 

going. 
,,  Mary  (child  of  Charles  the  Illustrious). 

Elegant  Monument  to  Antonia  Gaudino, 

Giovanni  da  JVola. 

This  is  near  the  door  on  the  left  of  the  Church.  The 
epitaph  is  by  the  poet  Antonio  Epicuro,  on  the  death  of  the 
young  girl  at  the  age  of  fourteen,  on  the  day  appointed  for  her 
wedding. 

In  Chapel  2,  on  left,  tomb  of  Raimondo  Cabano,  formerly 
a  Moorish  slave,  afterwards  High  Seneschal  to  Joanna  I.,  and 
one  of  the  chief  of  those  concerned  in  the  murder  of  her 
husband. 

Chapel  on  right  of  high  altar.      Burial-place  of  the  Bourbons. 
Tomb  of  Prince  Philip     .  .  .  San  Martino. 

Tombs  of  five  other  children  of  Charles  III. 

The  pulpit  of  this  church,  supported  by  four  lions,  has  some 
remarkable  13th-century  bas-reliefs  on  the  martyrdom  of  SS. 
John  and  Catherine, 


CHURCHES.  21 

Bas-reliefs  under  organ,  History  of  St.  Catherine  of 
Alexandria. 

In  Refectory  of  Franciscan  Convent  attached  to  the 
church — 

Saviour  with  Virgin  and  Saints 

King  Robert  and  Family  .  .  .     School  of  Giotto. 

Close  by  is  the  large  Monastery  of  5.  Chiara,  once 
containing  four  hundred  nuns  ;  area  now  occupied  by  shops  ; 
at  extremity  of  No.  23,  see — 

Miracle  of  Loaves  and  Fishes  (fresco)        .         .         .  Giotto. 

The  Campanile  of  Sta.  Chiara  is  a  fine  specimen  of 
decorative  art.  It  was  erected  to  illustrate  the  five  orders 
of  architecture.  The  Tuscan  portion  was  executed  under 
King  Robert  ;  the  Doric  was  completed  in  the  T5th,  and  the 
Ionic  early  in  the  17th  century,  leaving  the  Campanile  still 
unfinished. 

San  Domenico  Maggiore. 

(Vico  S.  Domenico.) 

A  Gothic  building,  founded  in  1285,  from  designs  by 
MaSHCcio  the  eldei'.  Altered  at  various  times,  now  one  of  the 
most  richly-adorned  churches  in  Naples.  Fine  nave,  2  aisles, 
27  chapels,  and  12  altars.  Gothic  arches  stuccoed  and 
re  gilt.     Conimencing  on  the  right — 

Chapel    I    (St.    Martin),    with    arabesques    on    arch    over 
entrance. 
Virgin     with     SvS.     Dominico    and 

Martin       .....       Andrea  da  Salerno. 
Chajjel  2.     Tomb  of  .'\rchbishop  Brancaccio. 

The  Madonna        .  .  .     (attrib.)       Ai^nolo  Fratico. 

S.  Dominic  and  Magdalen      .     (attrib.)  Stefanone. 

Chapel  3.      Frescoes  (much  repainted) 

(attrib.)      Agnolo  Franco. 

Chapel  7  (of  the  Crucifix)  is  a  church  in  itself. 
Picture  of  the  Crucifix  that  spoke  to 

S.  Thomas  Aquinas  .  Tommaso  degli  Stefxni. 

Bas-relief  o{  a.hovG  incident  in  front  of  altar. 
Carrying  of  the  Cross  and  Deposition,  on  the 
sides  of  the  altar,  in  Flemish  style. 

c  2 


22  NAPLES. 

Tomb  of  Francesco    Carafa  .  Agnello  del  Fiore. 

Toml:)   opposite   Agnello  del  Fiore  6^  Giovanni  da  No/a. 

Small  chapel  left  of  principal  altar. 
Tomb  of  Ettore  Carafa. 

Chapel  by  entrance  to  nave  contains — 

Madonna  della  Rosa     ....    Maestro  Simone. 
Tomb  of  Conte   Bucchianico   and  wife   Agnello  del  Fiore. 

Chapel  8  (S.  Thomas  Aquinas),  entrance  to  Sacristy. 

Altar-piece    ......     Luca  Giordano. 

Gothic  tombs  of  Aquino  family. 

Virgin  and  Child  (on  a  gold  ground)       .  .   Simone  {?). 

The  Sacristy  has  a  rich  marble  pavement. 
Presses  made  of  roots  of  trees 
Frescoes  (roof)       ......     Solimena. 

The  Annunciation  .  .  .       Andrea  da  Salerno. 

Forty-five  mortuary  chests  covered  with 

velvet,  ten  of  which  are  of  Arragonese 

Princes  or  Princesses. 

From  the  adjoining  Tesoro  the  heart  of  Charles  II.  of 
Anjou,  in  its  silver  casket,  was  stolen  during  the  French 
occupation. 

In  the  right  transept — 

Bas-relief  of  S.  Jerome. 

Several  tombs,  beautiful  arabesques,  etc. 

The  Madonna  delle  Grazie        .  .  .       Agnolo  Franco. 

The  latter  painting  is  in  one  of  the  chapels  in  the  i)assage 
opening  out  of  the  transept.  In  this  passage  are  various  tombs, 
etc.  In  the  chapel  of  S.  Bonito,  a  triptych  of  the  Virgin, 
Child,  and  Saints,  etc.,  and  some  16th-century  monuments. 

Monument  in  Zingarelli  (in  transept) — 


o'  .,        -„K     J  ,         r"in  small  chapel         .        Bros.  Donzello. 
S.  Mary  Magdalene  J  ^ 

The  High  Altar  (1652).     Splendid  specimen  of  Florentine 
mosaic  work ;  notice  the  verd  antique  columns  for  candelabra. 

Four  chapels  in  left  transept.     In  the  Pignatelli  Chapel  see 
The  Annunciation  (after  Titian)  .  Z.  Giordano. 

In  the  left  aisle  are  eight  chapels. 


CHURCHES.  23 

Chapel  8  (from  entrance),  dedicated  to  S.  Maria  della  Neve. 
Alto-relievo  over  the  altar,  with  statues  of  Virgin  and 
SS.  Matthew  and  John,  perhaps  the  chef  cTa'itvre  of 
Giovafini  da  No  la. 

Monument  of  Poet  Marini. 
,>  Bartolomeo  Pipi. 

Bust  of  Marini  (alluded  to  by  Milton) 

Bartolomeo  Visamti. 

Chapel  7.  (Ruffo  Bagnara) — • 

Martyrdom  of  S.  Catherine  .     Leonardo  da  Pistoja 

Tomb  of  Leonardo  Tomacella  (1529). 

Chapel  6.  Tombs  of  Carafa  family — 

A  Saint  dressing  wounds  of  S.  Sebastian. 

Chapel  5.  Tombs  of  Andrea  family — 
Picture  of  S.  Antoninus. 

Chapel  4.  (Rota  family) — 

S.  John  the  Baptist  (statue)  .         Giovanni  da  N'ola. 

Monument  of  Bernardino  Rota  (poet),  with 

figures  of  the  Arno  and  Tiber     .         Domenico  d Aiiria. 

Chapel  3. 

Martyrdom  of  S.  John  the  Evangelist 

Scipione  Gaetano. 
Tomb  of  Antonio  Carafa  (Malizia). 

Chapel  2.  (The  Rosary) — 

Madonna  di  Sant'  Andrea.     A  picture  said  to  be  endowed 
with  marvellous  miracle-working  powers. 

Chapel  I.  (St.  Giuseppe) — 

Infant  Christ  crowning  St.  Joseph  .       Luca  Giordano. 

Adoration  of  the  Magi  .        (attrib.)     Albrecht  Dilrer. 

Holy  family  ....         Andrea  da  Salerno. 

The  adjacent  monastery  contains  many  memorials  of  S. 
Thomas  Aquinas,  university  professor  here  in  1272.  His  cell 
(now  a  chapel),  his  lecture  room,  and  part  of  his  chair  are  still 
shown.  The  Accademia  Pontaniana  used  to  hold  its 
meetings  here  but  is  now  transferred  to  the  Palazzo  Tarsia, 
near  the  foot  of  Sant'  Elmo.  In  the  Piazza  outside  is  the 
obelisk  of  S.  Domenico  by  Fansaga  and  Vaccuro. 


24  NAPLES. 

S.   Filippo  Neri 

(Piazza  Geiolomini), 

or  the  Church  ol  the  Geroloniini,  near  the  Duomo  constructed 
by  the  Fathers  of  the  Oratory  in  1592-1619,  from  designs  of 
Dionisio  di  Bartolomeo.  Facade  by  Lazzari,  altered  later 
to  match  the  church  by  Fi/ga,  and  covered  with  marble. 
Statues  by  San  Martino.  Cupola  by  Lazzari.  Interior — a 
nave  and  two  aisles,  divided  by  Corinthian  granite  columns. 
Heavy  architrave  and  flat  roof,  with  gilt  bas-reliefs ;  the  whole 
building  excessively  ornamented. 

Frescoes  over  columns  ....      Benasca. 

Fresco  over  entrance,  Christ  driving 

dealers  from  the  Temple  .  .    Lvca  Giordano. 

The  architectural  details  by      .         .  Moscatiello. 

Picture  over  high  altar  Giovan.  Bernardino  Siciliano. 

The  pictures  on  side  walls       ....      Corenzio. 

Chapel  of  S.  Fihppo  Neri,  left  of  choir, 

designed  by         ...  .  Giacomo  Lazzari. 

Painting  on  Cupola.     S.  Filippo  in  Glory  .     So/iinena. 

Chapel  della  Concezione,  right  of  choir — 

Cupola,  Judith  and  Head  of  Holofernes  .  .    Simonelli. 

The  Conception      ....      Cesare  J^racanzano. 

Chapel    of    Ruffo    Scilla    family,    left    transept,    wnth    fluted 
Corinthian  columns. 
Six  Statues  .  .  .  .  .  .       Fietro  Bernini. 

The  Nativity Koncalli. 

Annunciation        ......      Santafede. 

Chapel  of  S.  Francis  (5th  on  left) — 

S.  Francis  in  prayer      .....  Guido  Reni. 

Near  this  chapel,  in  the  nave,  is  the   inscription  to  Giam- 
battista  Vico,  author  of  the  "  Scienzia  Nuova,"  died  1744. 

Chapel  of  S.  Agnese — 

Pictures         .  .  .      Roncalli  and  L.  Giordano. 

In  chapels  in  opposite  aisle— 

S.  Jerome  awed  by  the  last  trumpet  .  .  .  Gessi. 
Adoration  of  the  Magi .....  Corenzio. 
S.  Alexis  dying     ....  .Fietro  da  Cortona. 


CHURCHES.  25 

Tlie  picture  in  the  Chapel  of  the  Holy  Sacrament  is  the  last 
work  of  Scifitajede,  unfinished  at  the  time  of  his  decease. 

The  Sacristy  contains  many  fine  paintings — 

S.  Filippo  Neri  in  Glory         .  .  .  L.  Giordano. 

Baptism  of  Jesus  .......  Guide. 

Flight  into  Egypt Ibid. 

Mother  of  Zebedee  and  Saviour     .  .  .      Santafede. 

Ecce  Homo.         ......  Spagnoktto. 

S.  Andrew    .......   Spagjwletto. 

Crucifixion   ......     Marco  da  Siena. 

S.  Francis     .......      Tintoretto. 

Heads  of  the  Apostles  ....  Domenichino. 

Christ  bearing  the  Cross  (2  pictures)      .  .        Bassano. 

Nativity        .....         Andrea  da  Salerno. 

Adoration  of  the  Magi ......      Ibid. 

Jacob  and  the  Angel     .         .  .       Palma  Vecchio. 

S.  Sebastian  .....  Cav.  Ar(>ino. 

5.   Giovanni  a  Carbonara. 

(Strada  Foria.) 

Built  in  1344.  Designed  by  Masjiccio  the  younger.  King 
Ladislaus  enlarged  and  restored  the  church  in  1400. 

The  Cappella  dei  Mirobelli,  opposite  the  entrance,  contains 
the  Tomb  of  Trojano  Mirobello. 

Statues  of  S.  Augustin  and  S.  John  the  Baptist  in  the 
pilasters  by  the  high  altar. 

Tomb  of  King  Ladislaus  ....    Andrea  Ciccione. 

This  lofty  tomb  is  in  three  storeys  ;  the  first  behind  the  altar, 
four  statues  of  Virtues;  the  second,  Ladislaus  and  Joanna 
enthroned,  with  attendant  Virtues,  etc.  ;  the  third,  the  sarco- 
phagus containing  the  body,  with  attendant  figures,  recumbent 
effigy  of  Ladislaus,  angels  drawing  aside  curtain  of  the  canopy, 
etc.  On  the  summit  is  an  equestrian  statue  of  the  young 
king. 

Frescoes,  near  the  tomb,  by  Besozzo.  \w  the  chapel  beliind 
tliis  tomb  (Caracciolo  del  Sole  family) — • 

Tomb  of  Ser  Gianni  Caracciolo,  favourite  of  Joanna  IL, 
assassinated  1432,  through  the  influence  of  Corello  Rufo, 
Duchess  of  Sessa. 

Frescoes    of   Life  of  the    Madonna    (note    especially 

the  Coronation)         .  .  Leonardo  da  Besozzo. 


26  NAPLES. 

The  circular  Chapel  of  the  Caracciolo  di  Vico  family,  left  of 
high  altar,  designed  by  Girolavio  Santacroce. 

Statue  of  S.  Peter     ......       Merlicmo. 

,,  S.  Paul     ......     Santacroce. 

„  S.  Andrew         .....      Caccavello. 

„  S.  James  ....  Pedro  della  Piatta. 

These  four  statues  were  executed  as  a  trial  of  skill  by  the 
sculptors  named. 

The  Epiphany  (mezzo-relievo)  .         .         .  Della  Piatta. 

Bas-reliefs  on  altar  .......       Ibid. 

Two  Evangelists  and  small  statues  of  SS.  John  and 

Sebastian  ......      Santacroce. 

Tomb  of  Galeazzo    .......    Scilla. 

,,       Nicolantonio  Caracciolo     .  Domenico  cTAuria. 

In  the  Sacristy  (formerly  Somma  chapel) — 

Small  picture        ......         Bassano. 

Bas-reliefs  on  altar        .....      Caccarello. 

15  Frescoes  (Old  Testament  History  and  Life  of 

S.  John)   .....  Fasari  and  Doceno. 

Walnut-wood  presses,  from    .  .  .     Vasari's  designs. 

The    Chapter = house,     a    handsome   room    covered   with 
rescoes.     Prom  the  court  enter 

Chapel  of  the  Crucifixion,  belonging  to  the  Seripandis. 
The  Crucifixion  ......  Fasari. 

Chapels  of  S.  Monica  and  Madonna  Consolatrice. 


Monte  Oliveto,  or  Sant'  Anna  dei  Lombard! 

(Piazza  di  Monteoliveto), 

once  a  Benedictine  Monastery,  erected  in  141 1,  from  designs 
of  Ciccione.  The  Monastery  buildings  where  Tasso  was  so 
kindly  cared  for  by  the  monks  in  1588  are  now  Municipal 
Offices.  The  church  is  full  of  sculpture,  but  its  architecture 
is  spoilt  by  restorations. 

Monument  of  Generjil  Giuseppe  Trivulzio  (1757),  Domenico 
Fontana,  architect  (d.  1607). 


CHURCHES.  27 

Chap.  I,  1. — (Pezzo)  Statues  and  bas-reliefs. 
Chap.  2,  1. — (Piccolomini). 

The  Nativity  (relief)  ....  Donatello  (?) 

Singing  Angels  .....  Rossellino 

Tomb  of  Maria  of  Arragon      .         .         .  Ibid. 

The  Ascension  (picture)  .  .  .      Silvestro  Buono. 

Chap,  r,  r. — (Liguori),  Virgin  and  Child         Giovanni  da  Nola. 

„  Bas-reliefs         .  .  Ibid. 

Chap.  2,  r. — (Marini). 

The  Annunciation  (relief) 

Benedetto  da  Mariano. 
Chap.  5,  1. — S.  John  Baptist         .  .  .         Giov.  da  Nola. 

Chapel  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  contains  a  life-coloured  group 
in  terra-cotta  of  figures  kneeling  before  our  Saviour,  being 
portraits  of  contemporaries  of  the  sculptor,  by  Modanino. 

In  the  choir,  frescoes  by  Siffione  Fapa,  and  numerous 
monuments  by  JVola  and  others.  Organ  considered  one  of  the 
best  in  Italy  for  tone. 

Incoronata. 

(Strada  Medina.) 

Nave  and  left  aisle  of  this  church  built  by  Queen  Joanna 
in  commemoration  of  her  marriage  with  her  cousin  Louis 
of  Taranto  in  13-17  ;  she  included  the  Cappella  di  Giustizia 
in  which  the  ceremony  had  been  performed.  From  the  gallery 
(entrance  from  the  tower  30  c.)  can  be  seen  a  series  of  admirable 
frescoes,  considered  good  specimens  of  the  School  of  Giotto. 
I'he  compartments  of  the  Gothic  roof  are  filled  with  the 
following  subjects  :— 

Baptism.     Christening   of  infant  son   of  Duke  of  Calabria. 

Two  half  figures  in  this  picture,  one  crowned  with  laurel, 

said  to  be  Petrarch  and  Laura. 
Confirmation.     Three  children  of  Joanna. 
Holy    Communion.      Joanna     and    others     receiving     the 

Host. 
Holy   Orders.     Boniface    VIII.   consecrating   Bishop   Louis 

of  Anjou. 
Confession.     Joanna    confessing,    penitents   being  scourged, 

etc. 
Marriage.     Nuptials  of  Louis  and  Joanna.     Highly  admired 

as  a  picture  of  court  life,  costume,  manners,  etc.,  in  the 


28  NAPLES. 

14th     century.      A     portrait    of     Dante,     said    to     be 

discernible. 
Extreme  Unction.     A  dying   prince. 
Triumph  of  the  Church. 

Cappelia  del  Crocifisso,  end  of  left  aisle. 
Carthusians  doing  homage  to  Joanna,  and 

other  paintings  ....     Ge/i/iaro  di  Cola. 

Frescoes,  SS.  Martin  and  George,  etc. 


San  Lorenzo. 

(Strada  San  Paolo.) 

This  church  was  built  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Basilica 
Augustalis,  the  meeting-place  of  the  Senate  of  Naples  ; 
originally  Gothic  (1324),  little  of  that  style  now  remains  except 
the  marble  doorway,  and  the  ambulatory  with  chapels,  etc. 

Our   Saviour  and  St.   Francis,  etc.   (over 

chief  entrance)         ....        Vmcenzo  Cor  so. 
Sepulchral    slab    of    Giambattista    della 

Porta,  the  first  encyclopaedist. 
Statues  of  SS.    Francis,    Lawrence,    and 

Antony   ......     Giov.  da  Nola  (?) 

Bas-reliefs  on  high  altar ....  •  Ibid. 

St.  Anthony,  on  a  gold  ground  (in  cha[  el)      Maestro  Simone. 
Coronation  of  King  Robert     ...  Ibid. 

In  the  choir  are  monuments  of — 

Catherine  of  Austria  (1323)     .         .         .  Masuccio. 

Joanna    Durazzo,  Countess    of   Eu,    and 

her  husband,  both  poisoned  on  the 

same  day,  July  20,  1387. 
Princess  Mary  of  Durazzo        .  .  .  Masuccio  II. 

Charles  I.,  Duke  of  Durazzo  .         .         .  Ibid. 

In  the  Cloisters  will  be  found  the  tomb  of  Ludovico 
Aldemoresco  (14 14),  Baboccio. 

Petrarch  resided  for  some  time  in  the  adjoining  monastery  ; 
and  in  this  church  Boccaccio  saw  the  charming  lady  whom  he 
has  immortalised  as  Fiammetta. 


CHURCHES.  29 

Santissima  Annunziata. 

(Strada  dell'  Annunziata.) 

Founded  by  Queen  Sancia  ;  destroyed,  with  the  exception 
of  the  sacristy  and  treasury,  by  fire  in  1757  ;  rebuilt  (1782)  by 
Vanvitelli,  now  one  of  the  finest  examples  of  classical  archi- 
tecture in  Naples ;  forty-four  marble  columns  support  the  grand 
cornice. 

Paintings  over  high  altar  and  in  transept  .  Francesco  di Miira. 

Bas-j-elief^  Nativity  and  Deposition. 

,,         Descent  from  the  Cross  .         .         Giov.  da  No  la. 
The  Caraffa  Chapel  is  very  much  decorated. 
The  Treasury  is  a  large  hall  containing 

an   altar  and   the  Tomb  of  Alfonso 

Sancia     ......  Domenico  cT Aiiria. 

Frescoes  of  roof  (also  in  sacristy)     .         .  Corenzio. 

Bas-reliefs  on  sacristy  presses  .  .  .         Giov.  da  N'ola. 

In  front  of  the  high  altar  is  the  sepulchral  slab  of  the 
profligate  Joanna  II. 

Adjoining  the  Church  is  the  large  Foundlings'  Home  (shown 
by  special  permission). 

Sta.   Maria  la  Nuova. 

(Strada  San  Giuseppe.) 

Erected  in  1258,  on  the  site  of  ancient  Torre  Mastri ; 
rebuilt  1599,  by  Franco;  consists  of  a  nave  and  transept 
and  fourteen  chapels.  Among  the  paintings  on  the  flat,  gilt 
ceiling  are — 

Coronation  of  the  Virgin.         .         .         .  Saiitafede. 

Paintings  on  the  Dome  ....  Corenzio. 

Frescoes  on  roof  of  choir         .        Simone  Papa  the  Younger. 

Chapel  I,  right.     The  Archangel  Michael    Amato  il  Vecchio. 

Chapel  3      „  Crucifixion,  etc.   .  .       Marco  da  Siena. 

Chapel  of  the  Crucifix.     Frescoes  by  Corenzio. 

In  the  right  transept  is  a  fine  15th  century  work  with  bas- 
reliefs,  the  monument  of  Galeazzo  Sanseverino. 

In  the  adjacent  chapel,  beautiful  wooden  crucifix  by  Giov. 
da  Not  a. 


30  NAPLES. 

Over  the  high  altar  (very  much  repainted) — 

Madonna  (in  wood)         .  .  .     To>iiinaso  degli  Stefani. 

In  the  Nave.     Two  figures  of  children    .        Luca  Giordano. 

Chapel  (2,  left)  of  5an  Qiacomo  della  Marca  is  really  a 
church,  having  seven  altars,  erected  by  "  il  gran  capitano " 
Gonsalvo  da  Cordova,  whose  nephew,  Ferdinand,  in  the  chival- 
rous spirit  of  the  age,  raised  the  two  monuments  to  his  chief 
enemies,  Pietro  Navarro  and  Lautrec. 

The  chapel  on  the  right  of  high  altar  contains — 

A  picture        ......  Spagnoletii  (?). 

Frescoes  on  vault   .....  Stanzioni. 

On  left  of  high  altar  a  lofty  monument  to  three  of  the  Counts 
Sangro. 

In  the  refectory  of  the  adjacent  suppressed  convent  are 
frescoes    from    Scripture    history,    attributed    to    the    Brothers 

Donzelli. 

San  Martino. 

The  suppressed  Carthusian  monastery  and  church  of  San 
Martino  is  beautifully  situated,  with  splendid  views,  within 
the  fortifications  of  the  Castle  of  S.  Elmo  (see  p.  57). 
Founded  in  1325,  by  Charles  the  Illustrious,  Duke  of  Calabria, 
son  of  Robert  of  Anjou,  King  of  Naples,  it  was  rebuilt  in  the 
17th  century.  Since  the  suppression  of  the  Carthusian  Con- 
vent the  church  has  been  shown  by  Government  custodians,  as 
an  adjunct  of  the  Museum.  (10  to  4,  2  1.,  including  Belvedere 
and  Museum ;  free  on  Sundays,  9  to  i  ;  closed  on  public 
holidays.) 

In  the  vestibule  are  some  rude  frescoes  by  Micco  Spadaro 
and  Bellisario.  The  interior  of  the  church  is  perhaps 
unequalled  in  Europe  for  decoration ;  coloured  marbles, 
forming  a  long  mosaic  work,  encase  the  floors,  piers,  walls, 
etc. ;  an  open-w^ork  screen  of  marble  parts  off  the  choir. 

The  Ascension  (frescoes  on  roof)         .         .  Lanfranco. 

Twelve  Apostles  (between  the  windows).     .  Ibid. 

Descent  from  the  Cross  (over  chief  en- 
trance), enviously  damaged  by  Spagno- 
letto,  under  pretence  of  cleaning  it         .  Stanzioni. 

Moses  and  Elias  .....  Kibera, 

Twelve  figures  of  Prophets  over  arches  of 

the  chapels  .         .  .         .  Ibid. 


CHURCHES. 


31 


In  the  Choir  many  works  of  art  will  be  found. 

Frescoes  of  the  Vault.  ....     Cav.  d'Arpino. 

Supper  at  Emmaus     .  .  .     Coinpleied  by  Bernardino. 

The  Nativity       ......  Guido  Reni. 

(This  was  one  of  his  finest  productions  ;  it 
was  incomplete  at  his  death.) 

Fresco,  over  the  Nativity    ....  Lanfranco. 


On  the  side  walls  of  the  choir- 
Communion  of  the  Apostles 
Washing  of  the  Feet  . 
Last  Supper 
Institution  of  the  Eucharist 


Ribera. 

Caracciolo. 

Stanzioni. 

School  ot  P.   Veronese. 


The  two  statues  in  the  choir  are  by  Domeiiko  Bernini  and 
Finelii.  The  marble  ornaments  and  sculptured  rosettes  on 
the  pilasters  are  by  Fansaga  of  Carrara.  The  marble  pave- 
ment by  the  Carthusian  monk  Presti.  The  high  altar  is  from 
a  design  by  Solimefia. 


There  are  five  chapels  on  the  right,  viz 
Chapel  I. 

Chnpcl  2. 


A 


(Madonna      del      Rosario.) 

painting  by         .  .        Domenico  Vaccaro. 

Madonna  .....  Sfanzioni. 

Rebuilding  of  Lincoln  Cathedral, 

and  another  picture   .  .  Andrea  Vaccaro. 

Frescoes  on  Roof       .         .         .  Corenzio. 

Chapel  3.  S.  John  baptizing  our  Saviour      .    Carlo  Maratta. 

Lateral  paintings         .         .         .  De  Matteis. 

Our  Saviour  among  the   Blessed 

(Frescoes  on  ceiling).  .  Stanzioni. 

Grace   and    Providence   (marble 

statues)     ....  Vaccaro. 

Chapel  4.   S.  Martin  ....         An}iibale  Caracci. 

Two  lateral  paintings .  .  .  Solimena. 

Painted  Ceiling  ....  Finoglia. 

Charity     and     Constancy     (two 

statues)     .  .  .  San  Martino  {ciitrib.). 

Chapel  5.   (The  Choir  of  the  lay  brethren.) 

Altar  Painting    ....  Vaccaro. 

Landscapes  (wall  frescoes)  .         .    Micco  Spadaro. 


32 


NAPLES. 


Returning  from  the  high  altar  along  the  opposite  side  of  the 
church,  we  reach  successively — 

Chapel  I.   S.  Nicholas         .  .  .  Pachecco  di  Rosa. 

Chapel  2.   Paintings   .....  La  Mura. 

Chapel  3.  (S,  Bruno)  painted  throughout  by  Statizioni. 

Chapel  4.    S.     Gennaro    and    Virgin    {l>as- 

relief)       ....  Vaccaro. 

Torture  and  Death  of  S.  Gennaro  Caracciolo. 

Frescoes   on   ceiling    (life   of  S. 

Gennaro) ....  Corenzio. 

Chapel  5.  Painted  by  De  Matteis. 

In  the  Sacristy — 

Painted  compartment  of  Roof     .  .  .     Cav.  cTArphw. 

Ecce  Homo        ......  Stanziom. 

Peter's  Denial    .  .  .     Michael  An^^elo  da  Caravagi^io. 

Crucifixion  ......     Cav.  d'Arpino. 

Tarsia-work  Presses,  with  reliefs. 


In  the  Treasury — 

Deposition  from  the  Cross 

Triumph  of  Judith  (on  the  vault).     Said  to 

have  been  executed  in  forty-eight  hours. 

in  the  artist's  seventy-second  year    . 
History  of  the  Brazen  Serpent     . 
Numerous  well-arranged  relics  in  presses. 


Ribera. 


L.  Giordano. 
Ibid. 


In  the  Chapterhouse — 

Frescoes  on  Roof        .....  Corenzio. 

Founders  of  religious  Orders  (on  the  walls)  Finoi^iia. 

St.  John  in  the  Desert         ....  Sianziont. 

Flagellation         .....         Ippolito  Roro/iest. 


In  the  Sala  del  Colloquio — 

Paintings  (the  life  of  S.  Bruno) 


Avanzini. 


In  the  Cloisters — 

60  White  marble  Doric  columns,  forming  quadrangle. 


Statues  of  Saints 


Faiisai^a 


Vaccaro. 


Adjoining    the    cloisters    are    several    rooms    in    which    an 
historical  museum   has   been   formed,   under   the   care  of  the 


CHURCHES.  33 

director  of  the  National  Museum.  Collections  of  silver 
vessels,  ivories,  porcelain,  faience  from  Capodimonte,  Majoliche 
di  Castelli,  Neapolitan  civil  and  military  costumes,  Venetian 
glass  and  furniture,  silk  and  arras,  modern  pictures,  plans  and 
maps. 

Beyond  the  court  of  the  church  is  the  Monastery  Court, 
with  sarcophagi  and  marble  ornaments,  leading  to  the  former 
laboratory  of  the  Convent,  containing  i6th-i7th  century 
pictures  of  Neapolitan  artists,  battle-pieces,  etc.,  and  local 
curiosities  : — - 

Gala  carriage  of  Naples   Municipality  (used  by  Victor 

Emmanuel  and  Garibaldi  in  i860). 
Flags  vowed  to  S.  Lorenzo  in  the  plague  of  1656. 
Hat  of  Cardinal  Ruffo. 
Chair  of  President  of  Parliament  in  1848. 
Various  MSS.,  newspapers,  etc. 

The  view  from  the  Belvedere  at  the  end  of  the  Convent 
Garden  is  justly  celebrated,  and  should  not  be  missed.  "  One 
of  the  two  loveliest  views  of  the  kind  in  Europe,  the  other 
being  from  the  top  of  the  Doge's  Palace  in  Venice." 

Santi    Severino   e   Sosio. 

(Piazza  S.   Marcellino.) 

Formerly  attached  to  a  Benedictine  monastery.  Enlarged 
and  modernised  in  1490. 

Cupola,  painted  by     .....  Schefer. 

Frescoes  of  the  vaults  of  Choir  and  Transept  Coreiizio. 

In  retouching  these  works  Corenzio  fell  from   the  scaffold 
and  was  killed.     He  was  buried  in  this  church. 

Chapel  T.   r.   Nativity  of  the  Virgin      .  .  Marco  da  Siena. 

Chapel  2.   r.   Sculptured  Altar-piece    .  .  N'accariiii. 

Chapel  3.   r.   Assumption  of  the  X^irgin  .  Marco  da  Siena. 

Chapel  5.   r.  Annunciation  .  .  .  Criscuola. 

Frescoes  on  side  walls     .  .  Corenzio. 

Chapel  6.  r.   (Cimitile  Family)  lately  restored. 

Adoration  of  the  Magi    .  .  Marco  da  Siena. 

In  passage  leading  to  Sacristy  see — 

The  graceful  tomb  of  Andrea  Bonifacio  Cicara  (a  cliild) 

Giov.  da  Nola  or  Pedro  della  Piatta. 
Tomb  of  Giambattista  Cicara  .  Giov.  da  Nola. 


34  NAPLES. 

In  right  transept — 

Nailing  Christ  to  the  Cross.  .  .      Afidrea  da  Salerno. 

Tombs  of  Mormile  Family  (Dukes  of  Campochiaro). 

Chapel  of  the  Sanseverini^ 

Tomb  of  the  three  brothers  Sanseverini  (poisoned  for 
sake  of  their  property,  in  15 16,  by  their  uncle 
Ascanio)     ......     Giov.  da  N^ola. 

In  1.  transept,  Qesualdo  Chapel — 

A  Pieta  by  ....  .        Domenico  d'Auria. 

Statue  over  Tomb  of  Vincenzo  Carafa  .  Naccarmi. 

The  Crucifixion  .... 


In  recess  of  1.  aisle.  Baptism  of  Christ 
Adoration  of  the  Madonna,  etc. 
S.  Michael  and  other  Archangel 


Marco  da  Sietia. 

Periigmo  (?). 
G.  Imperato. 
G.  d  Amato. 


The  High  Altar,  beautiful  Florentine  mosaic. 

Choir  Stalls,  best  wood-carving  in  Naples. 

In  Crypt,  over  high  altar,  picture  by  Zingaro  (?).  In 
Monastery  Court,  an  ancient  plane-tree,  whose  planting 
is  ascribed  to  St.  Benedict.  In  the  Cloisters  (admission  25c.) 
are  the  twenty  frescoes,  scenes  from  the  life  of  S.  Benedict,  attri- 
buted, though  with  some  doubts,  to  Zingaro  and  his  pupils.  The 
immense  variety  of  life-like  figures  and  striking  landscapes  of 
these  frescoes  have  long  been  celebrated. 

Since  18 18  the  Archives  of  the  Kingdom  have  been 
kept  in  the  Monastery  (see  also  p.  53). 

Other  Churches  in  Naples. 

There  are  upwards  of  505  churches  in  Naples,  forming, 
in  fact,  so  many  museums  of  architecture,  sculpture,  and 
painting — the  innumerable  tombs  and  monuments  not  only 
interesting  to  lovers  of  art,  but  also  profusely  illustrating 
mediaeval  history.  (They  are  generally  open  free  until  about 
mid-day ;  after  that  hour  application  must  be  made  to  the 
sacristan.)  To  describe  all  these  churches  would  occupy 
volumes.  We  have  noted,  in  some  detail,  those  most  worthy 
of  attention,  and  now  briefly  mention  some  of  the  remainder, 
which  the  tourist  can  visit  if  inclination  prompts  and  time 
allows. 

S.  Gesu  Nuovo.  Frescoes  by  Solimena,  Corenzio ; 
Stanzioiii     and       Vaccaro ;      Cupola,     etc.,     by     Lan  franco ; 


CHURCHES.  35 

Paintings    by   Giordano^  Spiii^noletto^  etc.     San  (jennaro  (St. 
Januarius),  founded  in  the  8th   century,  but    now  modernised. 
The    history    of   the    Saint    is    depicted    in    frescoes.      Behind 
the  church  is  the  entrance  to  the  Catacombs    of  the  same 
name.     Admission,  i  1.  ;    apply  to  the  porter  of  the  adjoining 
Albergo  de'  Poveri  {see  page  64).      San    Paolo  Maggiore. 
Some    remains   of  earlier   Temple ;    Marbles    and    Paintings 
by  Corenzio,  Stanziom\  etc.    San  Giacomo  degli  Spagnuoli. 
Tomb  of  Don   Pedro   de   Toledo    (its    founder),   by   Giov.  da 
Nola  :    Pictures  by  Marco  da  Siena,  etc.      San    Francesco 
di  Paola  (181  7-31).     Inlaid  Altar,  etc.  ;  modern  paintings  and 
sculptures.     Santa  Maria  del  Carmine.     Statue  of  Conradin 
hy  Schopf,  after  Thoiivaldseii.     Sant'  Angelo  a  Nilo.     Monu- 
ment of  Cardinal  Brancaccio,  founder.  San  Pietro  a  Maiella. 
Closed   and   to   be  pulled   down.     Chiesa  del  Sannazaro. 
St.    Michael    overcoming    Satan,     by    Leonardo   da    Pistoja ; 
Monument  of  the  Poet  Sannazaro.    Sant'  Agnello  Maggiore. 
Statuary,    Giov.    da     Nola ;     paintings,    Santacroce,    Domeiiico 
d'Auria,    etc.      SS.    Apostoli  (said   to   have    been    founded 
on  ruins  of  Temple  of  Mercury,   by  Constantine).     Frescoes, 
paintings,  mosaics,  etc.  ;    tomb  of  Poet  Marini.     Ascencione. 
S.    Anna   and    S.    Michael,    both    by    Z.    Giordano.     Santa 
Brigida.      Some    of  the  best    works    of   L.   Giordano,  whose 
tomb  is  also  here.     S.  Carlo  all'  Arena.      S.  Charles  giving 
the   Sacrament  to    the    dying  during  the  plague    at    Milan^,  a 
celebrated  painting  by  Giuseppe  Mancinelli ;  fine  marble  crucifix 
by  Michael  Angelo  A^accarino.    Santa  Caterina  a  Formello. 
Later    Renaissance.      The  Crocelle.      Tomb  of  Rev.    J.    C. 
Eustace.     San  Giovanni  Evangelista.     Built  by  the  Poet 
Pontanus  (1492),  who  covered  interior  with  Greek  inscriptions. 
San  Giovanni  Maggiore  (recently  rebuilt).     Baptism  of  the 
Saviour,  one  of  the  best  works  of  Alerliano.     San  Giovanni 
de'     Pappacoda.      Remarkable    Gothic    i)ortal,    by    Antonio 
Baboccio.      San  Giuseppe  a  Chiaia.     Monument    to   Lord 
Holland    (1859)  ;    Sta.     Restituta,     by    Molmari ;    sculptures 
by    Solari.      San    Gregorio    on    site    of   Temple    of   ('eres. 
Paintings    by    L.    Giordano.     Santa    Maria    degli    Angeli. 
Holy  Family,  Andrea  Vaccaro  ;  other  [)aintings  by  De  Matteis, 
etc.       Santa    Maria    della   Catena.       Grave   of    Admiral 
Caracciolo  {see  "  Life  of  Nelson  ").       Santa  Maria   Donna 
Regina.       Paintings    on     Altar,     Criscuolo :      paintings    and 
frescoes,  Z.  Giordano;  Tomb   of   Queen   Maria    of    Hungary. 
Museum  in  old  church  behind  ;  gratuity.     Santa  Maria  delle 


7,6  NAPLKS. 

Grazie  a  capo  Napoli.  Embellished  with  works  of  Beinaschi. 
Giov.  da  Ao/a,  Saiitacroce,  Domenico  cCAuria,  Andrea  da 
Saiertio,  Caaavello,  etc.  Santa  Maria  del  Pianto,  over 
victims  of  plague  of  1656.  \'irgin  restraining  thunderbolts, 
Andrea  Jdcearo  :  two  pictures  relating  to  the  plague,  Giordano. 
Santa  Maria  di  Piedigrotta,  1353,  but  restored  1850,  the 
scene  of  an  annual  festival  {see  pp.  13  and  62).  S.  Maria 
della  Pieta  dei  Sangri,  or  La  Cappella  Sansevero, 
Remarkable  allegorical  statues,  proof  of  manual  dexterity 
rather  than  high  art — Modesty,  form  and  features  shown 
through  a  veil ;  Vice  Undeceived,  a  man  struggling  from  a 
net;  Dead  Christ,  covered  with  a  sheet.  Bas-relief  oi  the 
Passion  by  Cerebrano.  Santa  Maria  della  Sanita  has  an 
underground  church  attached.  Pictures  by  Giordano,  Vaccaro, 
etc.  Monte  della  Misericordia.  Altar-piece,  Caravaggio ; 
Samaritan  and  S.  Peter,  Saiitafede ;  S.  Paolino,  Corenzio : 
the  Redeemer,  Giordano.  San  Pietro  ad  Aram.  Descent 
of  the  Cross,  Santacroce  :  Virgin  and  Saints  (curious),  Protasio 
C7-ivello ;  Tomb  of  Sta.  Campeda,  and  Miraculous  Well. 
San  Pietro  Martire,  altar-piece  in  twelve  compartment.s, 
ascribed  to  Simon  Marmion  of  Valenciennes,  illustrating  the 
life  of  S.  Vincent.  Assumption  and  Madonna,  Silvestro  de" 
Buoni ;  several  royal  and  other  tombs,  15th  and  i6th 
centuries.  SS.  Pietro  e  Paolo,  Greek  liturgy  used  here ; 
frescoes  by  Corenzio.  Santa  Teresa  (in  Strada  di  Capodi- 
monte).  The  Visitation,  by  Santafede ;  Sta.  Teresa,  by  De 
Matteis ;  Flight  out  of  Egypt  and  other  pictures,  by  Giacomo 
del  Fo  ;  two  pictures  in  style  of  Guidd),  L.  Giordano  ;  some 
paintings  by  Stanzioni.  Santa  Teresa  (in  Largo  S.  Teresella 
a  Chiaia),  built  in  1650,  by  Fansaga  ;  Repose  in  Egypt,  and 
other  pictures,  by  Z.  Giordano. 

The  National  Museum  (Museo  Nazionale). 

Between  the  Piazza  Cavour  and  the  Via  Roma  (Toledo). 

Open  daily,  from    10  to  4  in  Winter;  9    to    3,  Summer 
except  on  certain  Festivals  or  Holy  days.'     Admission,   2  1.  ; 
children,  i  1.      Free  on  Sunday,  from  9  a.m.  to  i  p.m.  (or  10-2). 
The  entrance  is  opposite  the  Galleria  Principe  di  Napoli  (p. 
59).     Tickets  are  issued  on  the  right  side  of  the  gate. 

*  The  Museum  is  closed  on  Jan.  i,  6  and  8  (Queen's  Birthday),  F^aster 
Day,  Ascension  Day,  Whitsunday,  first  Sunday  in  June,  Aug.  15,  19, 
20,  Nov.  I  and  11  (King's  Birthday),  Dec.  25. 


THE    NATIONAL    MUSEUM.  37 

The  Museum  Building  was  originally  intended  for  a 
Cavalry  Barracks.  It  was  commenced  in  1586  by  the  Duke  of 
Ossuna  from  the  plans  of  Dom.  Fontana ;  and  the  build- 
ing was  left  incomplete  till  1610;  it  was  then  assigned  to  the 
University,  and  inaugurated  in  16 16  as  the  Regii  Studii. 
After  various  vicissitudes,  it  was  arranged  for  a  public  museum 
towards  the  close  of  the  i8th  century.  It  was  enlarged  at 
various  times  by  the  Bourbons,  who  named  it  in  1816  the 
Museo  Reale  Borbonico.  In  i860  General  Garibaldi  declared 
the  Museum,  etc.,  to  be  national  property.  Victor  Emmanuel 
had  the  whole  establishment  reorganised,  and  extensive 
collections  were  added  during  his  reign,  more  especially  those 
known  as  the  Cumaean,  Santangelo,  and  the  Farnese  collection 
from  Rome  and  Parma. 

The  Museum  contains  the  treasures  excavated  at  Hercu- 
laneum,  Paestum,  Stabige,  Cumae,  and  Pompeii.  The  bronzes 
and  statues  from  Herculaneum,  and  the  vast  number  of 
antiquities  from  Pompeii,  are  unique  and  unrivalled,  rendering 
the  collections  in  the  Naples  Museum  the  first  of  their  kind 
in  the  world.  The  present  Director  is  Professor  Vittorio 
Spinazzola.     English  or  French  illustrated  catalogues  2  1. 

Permission  for  copying  must  be  obtained  at  the  secretary's 
office. 


The  following  abbreviations  are  occasionally  used  in  the 
synopsis  of  the  contents  of  the  Museum,  to  indicate  the 
localities  from  whence  the  objects  exhibited  have  come : — 

B.  Borgia  Museum.         Noc.  Nocera.         Pae.  Paestum. 

C.  Cumae.  N.  Naples.  Pou.  Pozzuoli. 
F.  Farnese  Collections.    No.  Nola.  R.  Ruvi. 

H.   Herculaneum.  P.  Pompeii.  S.  Stabiae. 

The  rearrangement  of  the  entire  contents  of  the  Museum 
has  now  been  completed,  with  the  exception  of  the 
inscriptions,  and  a  few  special  collections.  On  the  Ground 
Floor  the  Statuary  is  divided  into — 

I.   In  the  Vestibule,  Decorative  Municipal  Art. 
II.   In  the  East  Wing-,  Marble  sculpture  of  the  Archaic  and 
Hellenistic  period. 
111.    In    the    West    Wing-,    (ireek    and     Roman     Portraits, 
Inscriptions  and  Large    Bronzes,   Egyptian   and  Terra- 
cotta Collections. 

D   2 


36  NAPLES. 

In  the  Entresol,  on  the  left  are  the  Offices  of  the  Directors  ; 
and  on  the  right,  Mural  Paintings  and  the  Reserved  Cabinet. 

On  the  First  Floor,  on  the  left  is  the  Picture  Gallery  and 
the  Museum  of  Mediaeval  Art ;  and  on  the  right  articles  of 
food  from  Pompeii,  the  Antiquities,  including  small  Bronzes, 
and  the  Library  which  extends  also  into  the  centre. 

On  the  Second  Floor  (by  a  winding  staircase)  is  a  new 
Gallery,  containing  the  collections  of  Glass,  Gold,  Silver,  Arms, 
Medals,  Vases,  Papyri. 

(A  portion  of  the  mural  paintings,  Pompeian  statuettes,  and  small 
bronzes  are  scattered  in  various  collections  from  mere  decorative  motives.) 

The  Vestibule,  divided  into  three  aisles,  contains  the 
principal  decorative  Statues  of  the  Forums  of  Pompeii 
and  Herculaneum,  with  some  important  memorial  monu- 
ments of  Rome,  such  as  the  columns  of  Herodes  Atticus  in 
cipollino  marble  on  each  side  of  the  entrance  found  at  Rome 
on  the  Via  Appia;  the  marble  vases  dedicated  to  Victory,  and 
Fortuna  Augusta  ;  the  four  colossal  Farnese  Statues,  the  Genius 
of  Rome,  Urania,  Flora,  and  Alexander  Severus. 

Chief  among  the  municipal  statues  of  Herculaneum  are 
the  equestrian  statues  of  the  Balbi,  father  and  son  ;  statues 
of  the  wnfe  and  daughters  of  Balbus  found  in  the  Basilica 
in  1759.  Among  those  of  Pompeii  are  Eumachia  as  a 
priestess ;  Cleonia  Augustale,  and  Marcus  Rufus.  Under 
the  four  great  windows  are  No.  6,705,  the  _Sarcophagus_of 
Prometheus,  and  three  others. 

To  complete  the  tour  of  the  rooms  on  the  Ground  Floor, 
according  to  the  new  arrangement  it  is  necessary  to  begin 
at  the  eastern  wing  of  the  first  room  to  the  right  of  the 
entrance. 

First  Section.  Corridor  of  the  Tyrannicides. — Hall 
of  Victory ;  of  the  Temple  of  Locri ;  of  Athene  Parthenos  ; 
of  the  Doryphoros  ;  of  the  Palestrite. 

Corridor  of  Flora. — Hall  of  the  Farnese  Bull,  and  other 
masterpieces  ;  of  the  Venus  Callypj^gus. 

Corridor  of  the  Candelabra. — Hall  of  the  Fragments  ; 
Egyptian  Museum  ;  Terra-cottas  from  Aleiapontum,  Taren- 
tii/nt,  and  Pompeii. 

Second  Section. — Greek  and  Roman  Portraits. 

Corridor  of  the  Orators. 

Corridor  of  the  Emperors. — Hall  of  the  Temples  ol  Isis, 
Apollo,  and  Jove. 


THE    NATIONAL    MUSEUM.  39 

Corridor  of  the  large  Bronzes. — Hall  of  the  bronze  figures 
of  Pompeii  and  Herculaneutn. 

An  official  Catalogue  of  the  rearranged  Museum  has  not  yet 
been  published.  We  are  indebted  to  the  good  offices  of  Messrs. 
Detken  and  Rocholl,  English  and  Foreign  Booksellers, 
Piazza  Plebiscite,  Naples,  for  the  following  description  of 
the  various  collections. 


First    Section  (East  Wing). 
History   of   Art. 

With  a  view  of  giving  the  visitor  a  general  idea  of  the 
evolution  of  Art  in  ancient  times,  the  statues  have  been 
arranged  from  the  most  Archaic  period,  ascending  by 
degrees  to  the  art  of  Polycletus  and  Phidias,  and  from 
thence  to  that  of  Praxiteles,  and  the  decadent  schools.  This  in 
respect  to  Greek  Art. 

The  same  system  of  arrangement  could  not  be  followed 
for  Roman  Art,  but  an  attempt  has  been  made  to  group  the 
objects  according  to  the  various  copies. 

First  Corridor  (or  Portico).- — (Archaic  Statues  and 
Objects.)  6,556.  Funeral  tablet.  6,007.  Athena  Pronachos 
(copy).  F.  6,006.  Orestes  and  Electra.  H.  6,008.  Artemis  of 
Thespia,  antique  statue  of  the  5th  century  B.C.,  found  at  Pompeii 
in  the  house  of  Holconius,  and  has  preserved  some  traces  of 
colour.  In__  the  centre,__  6,009,  6^oio^^__Harmodius_iLDil 
Aristogejton^_ihe_slayers  of  the  tyrant  jjipparchug-  This  is  a 
copy  of  the  group  in  bronze  at  Athens,  carved  B.C.  450,  to 
replace  the  original  by  Antenor,  which  was  carried  off  by 
Xerxes. 

Room  I. — 5,998.  Venus  Genetrix,  the  work  of  Alcamenes, 
found  in  Naples  during  the  demolition  of  the  old  quarter. 

Room  II. — Remains  of  a  Greek  Temple  of  the  5th  century 
B.C.  1^0,119.  Group  of  the  Dioscuri,  allies  of  the  Locrians. 
Facade  of  the  temple  in  memory  of  the  battle  of  the  Sagra. 
Reproductions  in  i)laster  of  the  columns  and  capitals  of  the 
temple.      Wall-case  containing  figures  and  fragments  oi  ex  voto. 

Room  III. — 6,024.  Athena  (Minerva),  copy  of  a  statue  by 
'Phidias.       6,393.       Ver}^fin^_head_of__Ji4)ong.     F.      6,727. 
^H-TTnrmpQ.se  has-relirf^  representing  Orpheus  and  Eurydice,  guided 
by  Hermes  to  the  infernal  regions.   F. 


40  NAl'LES. 

Room  IV. — 6,oii.  Statue  of  Doryphoros,  antique  copy  of 
the  celebrated  statue  by  Polycletus  found  in  the  Palustra  of 
Pompeii  in  1797.  6,00c;.  Juno  Farnese  (work  believed  to  be 
by  Polycletus  about  420  B.C.) 

Room  V.  (Mosaics). — Including  some  of  the  very  finest 
Mosaics  from  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii.  9,991.  Genius  of 
Autumn  riding  on  a  lion.  9,985  and  9,987.  Comic  scenes, 
signed  by  Dioscurides  of  Samos.  P.  9994.  Garland  and  masks. 
9993.  Cat,  bird,  etc. 

Re-entering  the  First  Corridor,  pass  to  the  end  division  of  it. 
119,917.  Statue  of  a  Palestrita  found  at  Sorrento.  6,411. 
Wounded  fighting  warrior. 

Second  Corridor  (of  the    Flora). — Containing   works    of 

Roman    Sculpture,     and    Greek    reproductions.       6,409.    The 

':ijc>Farnese  Flora,  found  in  the  Baths  of  Caracalla  (a  large  graceful 

\vOTk).   F.   5^999.  Neoptelemus.  6,276.  Artemis.    6358.    Paris. 

Hall  of  the  Farnese  Bull. — 6027.  Farnese  Juno.  6353. 
Eros.  6017.  Aphrodite.  6019.  Psyche.  6318.  Farnese 
Bacchus.  6307.  Dionysius  and  Eros.  6,002.  The_Farnese 
Bull,  a  Roman  copy  of  a  large  group  by  ApoUonius  and 
Tmiriscus,  Rhodesian  sculptors  (pupils  of  Phidias),  found  in  the 
Baths  of  Caracalla  in  1546,  much  mutilated,  and  restored  by 
Giambattista  Biondi  of  Milan,  and  again  later.  The  mythological 
legend  of  the  group  is  as  follows  :  Lycus,  the  King  of  Thebes, 
having  married  Uirce  after  repudiating  Antiope,  her  rival,  the 
former  caused  Antiope  to  be  imprisoned  and  exposed  to  wild 
beasts  on  Mt.  Cithaeron,  where  she  was  avenged  by  her  sons, 
Zethus  and  Amphion.  Meanwhile,  Lycus  and  Dirce  came  to 
Mt.  Cithaeron  for  the  festival  of  Bacchus,  intending  to  kill 
Antiope,  but  the  sons  slew  Lycus,  and  tied  Dirce,  their  mother's 
persecutor,  by  her  long  hair  to  the  horns  of  a  bull,  to  be  dragged 
to  death  over  the  rocks  of  Cithaeron.  The  original  is  supposed 
to  have  been  in  bronze. 

6,001.  The  Farnese  Hercules,  found  in  the  baths  of 
Caracalla  in  1840.  The  simple  and  majestic  attitude  of  the 
statue  is  very  striking,  and  according  to  the  inscription  it  is  the 
work  of  Glycon  of  Athens. 

Both  the  Farnese  Bull  and  the  Farnese  Hercules  were 
presented  to  the  Bourbon  King  of  Naples  by  the  Farnese  family. 

124,325.  Sarcophagus,  with  inscriptions.  6726.  Bacchus. 
6673.  Birth  of  Bacchus  (one  of  three  marble  vases). 


THE    NATIONAL   MUSEUM.  4I 

Hall  of  the  Amazons. — A  short  passage  leads  to  two 
small  rooms  containing  reproductions  of  groups  erected  by 
King  Attains  I.  on  the  Acropolis  at  Athens  as  votive  offer- 
ings.     6,012.    Dead  Amazon.     6,013.    Dead  Giant.      6,014. 

Dead     Persian.      6^01  q. W^ounded__Gaul. 

J        Hall  of  Venus.- — A   collection    of  Venuses   and    Cupids. 

v^    6,339.     Cupid     asleep.       6,293.     Crouching     Venus.     6,284. 

5    Venus.    6j2^3^__Venus_Anadyomene.    6j^2^,__yenus_Calligy  = 

i    gus,  found  in  the  ruins  of  Nero's  Golden  House   at    Rome  ; 

remarkable  for  the   softness    of   the   flesh,    and    the   graceful 

attitude. 

At  the  end  of  the  Second  Corridor  is  the 


Egyptian  Museum 

which  belonged  to  the  Borgian  Collection.  It  contains  copies 
in  plaster  of  Egyptian  and  Assyrian  monuments,  statuettes  in 
basalt,  bas-reliefs,  inscriptions,  and  mummies.  At  the  foot  of 
the  staircase  are  male  and  female  mummies,  among  them  a 
priest  and  a  princess.  In  the  glass  cases  are  necklaces,  amulets, 
and  animals  sacred  to  Egyptian  worshij). 

In  one  of  the  four  rooms  is  a  Collection  of  Terra  =  Cottas 
principally  from  the  Tem]jle  of  Apollo  at  Metapontum,  also 
polychrome  tablets,  ex  voto  statuettes  from  Pompeii,  Tarentiini, 
and  Cumcc. 

Returning  pass  into  the  Third  C'orridor  (right)  where  are 
a  number  of  coloured  scul[)tures,  including  (centre)  6278  Diana, 
of  Ephesus.  Parallel  to  the  corridor  are  five  rooms  with 
various  sculptures  and  reliefs.  From  the  Third  Corridor  pass 
straight  forward  into  the 

Second  Section  (West  Wing). 

First  Corridor  ((keek  Portraits) — 6,023.  Homer,  a  splendid 
bust.  6,133.  .Sophocles.  6,129.  Socrates.  6,135.  Euripides. 
6,140.  Apollonius.  (?).  6,150.  Pyrrhus.  6, 130.  Lysias.  6,018. 
.'lischines. 

From  this  Corridor  a  door  leads  to  the 

Gallery  of  the  Inscriptions,  containing  in  five  rooms 
2,000  Latin  inscriptions,  which  are  a  mine  of  information  to 
the  scholar  ;   but  we  can,  of  course,  barely  allude  to  them. 

\st  Room.      Wall  cases  of  small  inscriptions. 


42  NAPLES. 

2nd  Room.  The  celebrated  Tables  of  Heradra  found  at 
Pis  fieri  in  t  735. 

T,rd  Room.     Oscan  inscriptions. 

4//z  Room,     (jraffiti  from  Pompeii. 

^th  Room.      Miscellaneous  inscriptions. 

In  the  Second  Corridor  (of  the  Emperors)  and  in  five 
adjacent  rooms,  have  been  placed  the 

Busrs   AND    Statues    of    the    Emperors,  of   which    the 

following    are    most    noteworthy :    6,040.  Colossal    statue    of 

. ^    Augustus    Cffisar,    seated.     6,029.  A    Matron.      6,062.  Julia, 

daughter    of   Titus.     6,033.  Caracalla.     6,058.  Titus.     6,060. 

^.  Claudius.     6,079.   Marcus  Aurelius.     6,075.   Hadrian.     6,046. 

^'*^  Caligula.     6,052.    Tiberius.       1  i_oJ^92^_ColQsaaU^st  of  Titus. 

6,102.   Maximinius,       6,078.  Antoninus  Pius.       6,098.   Helio- 

gabalus.       6,291.  Venus  Faustina.       6,299.    Venus   Marciana. 

6_^pi8_Colossal  bust  of  Caesar.         ^  itu ^    n+-,-   .  —  x> 

In  the  miidle  of  the  central  room  is  ^ 

iQ^2o^  The  famous  Mosaic  of  the  Battle  ofAlexander, 
found  in  1831  in  the  House  of  the  FauiTlit  Pompeii.  It 
represents  the  battle  of  Issus  at  the  moment  when  Alexander, 
having  lost  his  helmet,  charges  Darius  with  his  cavalry,  and 
kills  the  Persian  General.  Darius,  in  his  chariot,  is  preparing 
for  retreat. 

Also  parallel  with  the  above  corridor  are  three  rooms  with 
bronzes. 

Room  I. — QTJ^tatuette  of  Isis. 

Room  II. — Statues  and  vases  from  the  Pompeian  Temples. 
5,629.  Apollo  Sagittarius.  4,895.  Diana.  6,266.  Colossal 
bust  of  Jupiter. 

Room  III. — In  the  centre  (110,127)  remains  of  a  bust  of 
Gall>a  in  silver. 

Third  Corridor  Large  Bronzes. 

5,595.  Augustus  as  Jupiter.  In  centre.  Horse  from  a 
quadriga  from  Herculaneum.  5^^5(23.:__QaiKiius__Drus.us.  5,612. 
Li  via. 

In   the   five  i^arallel  rooms   are   Bronzes  from  Pompeii  and 

Herculaneum  : 

ist.  Hall  of  Narcissus.  Animals  for  ornaments  of 
fountains,  etc.  4,994-  Siatuet'e  of  Fishermen.  5^00^. 
NarcissuSj_Jbujid_jiL_£b/^4^^/i^^  (A  charming  statuette, 


THE    NATIONAL   MUSEUM.  43 

often  reproduced.)  5,002.  I  )aiicing  Faun.  5^,^02.  Drunken 
Silenus. 

2nd  Hall  of  the  Archaic  Apollo.  5,630.  Archaic 
Apollo.  4,995  Two  nude  statuettes,  one  of  them  repre- 
senting a  youthful  Faun.  4,998.  Venus.  4.QQ2:_3^ictory. 
5,613.  Apollo  pla\'ing  the  Cithaera.  In  the  centre,  125,348. 
Ephebos.  by  Polxcletus.     (Found  at  Pompeii  in  1899.) 

3rd.  Hall  of  Mercury.  The  bronzes  in  this  and  the  two 
following  rooms  were  found  in  the  V^illa  of  Fiso/u\  at 
Hercula>ieiim.  5,625.  Mercury  Re]j£sing^__a^__j3eauti£ul 
representation  of  youth,  probably  by  Lysippus.  Si6i8. 
llie  Bearded-Uionysius.  foriTierfvcalled  Plato.       5,604,   5,620, 

5, 60^. ,^621,     q,6lQ.     Archaic    Sf.ltllfS,     formprly  tlmilght    tn    b^ 

dancing  girls,  now  ideiitified-as-water  heareig.  5,624.  Sleeping 
Satyr. 

4th.     Hall  of  the  Drunken  Faun.     5j^628^_^)runken  Faun 
dancing,  found    July   13,     1754,    in    a  Villa    in    Hemilaneinn.       .-, 
5,626.   Discobulus.      5,627.    Discobulus.  J       ^kUi^^    "^  "^"^^-^.^iVTa. 

5th.  Hall  of  the  Paintings  from  Boscoreale.  Various  r«<j, 
splendid  wall  paintings  (frescoes)  discovered  by  Sigr.  de  Prisco  i- 
in  1900,  in  a  Villa  ai  BoSiOrealcwQ^v  ^o\n\)e.\\.  5,607.  Archytas 
(so  called).  5,600.  Ptolemy  S(  ter.  5,598.  Aulus  Gabinus. 
5634.  Scipio  Africanus.  4,896.  So-called  Sappho.  5,616. 
Supposed  Seneca.  5,623.  Heraclitus.  Small  busts  of 
Demosthenes,  Epicurus,     Agnppina,  Metrodorus. 

At  the  north  end  of  the  vestibule  is  the  staircase  leading  to 
the  Entresol  and  First  Floor.  At  the  foot  of  the  staircase 
colossal  Torso  of  Jupiter. 

Ascending  the  staircase  we  reach  the 

Entresol, 

on  the  right  side  of  which  are  the 

Collections  of  Ancient  Frescoes  and  Ornamental 
Painting's  from  die  excavations  of  Pompeii,  Herailaneum,  and 
Stabice.  They  were  executed  on  the  walls  by  a  method  known 
to  the  ancients,  but  not  handed  down  to  us.  I'hey  adorned 
the  walls  of  the  Pompeian  and  other  houses  when  it  became 
the  fashion  under  the  Empire  to  imitate  the  decorations  of  the 
great  Roman  houses. 

This  collection  has  been  arranged  partl\-  according  to  the 
myths  and  partly  according  to  their  subjects,  such  as  town  and 
country  life,   decorative   fancies,   sea   pieces,   and  landscapes. 


44  NAPLES.. 

They  are  generally  the  work  of  co|)yist  painters,  who  cultivated 
the  art  of  wall  decoration. 

Room  I. — 9,105.  Achilles  taking  leave  of  Briseis,  a 
splendid  painting.  9,008.  Telephus,  the  infant  son  of 
Hercules,  suckled  by  the  g  at.  9,109.  Achilles  being  taught 
the  lyre  by  Chiron.  9,110.  Achilles  at  the  Court  of  Lycomedes. 
9,112.  Sacrifice  of  Iphigenia.  In  the  centre  six.  Mono- 
chrome Paintings  on  marble. 

Room  II. — 8,976.  Medea  meditating  the  murder  of  her 
children.  In  centre,  109608.  Painted  statue  of  Venus 
Aphrodite. 

Room  III. — 9,043.  Theseus  and  the  Minotaur.  9,556. 
lo  and  Argus.  8,898.  The  three  continents — Europe,  Asia, 
Africa. 

Room  IV. — 9,040.  Pero  saving  her  father's  life  in  j^rison. 
9,278.  Dionysius  and  Ariadne.  8,984.  Polyphemus.  9,180. 
'Cupids  for  sa'e'  (doorway). 

RoOxM  V. — In  the  centre,  four  small  pictures  on  a  green  and 
blue  ground.  9,195.  Cupid  and  Psyche.  9,021.  Concert. 
9,022.   Concert.     9,118-21.   Rope-dancing  Satyrs  (doorway). 

Room  VI. — 9,009.  /Eneas  wounded.  9,010.  The  Trojan 
Horse.      1  andscapes  on  the  walls. 

Reserved  Cabinet. 

This  collection  contains  statuettes,  bas-reliefs,  mosaics, 
paintings,  and  amulets  of  obscene  character,  which  can  only  be 
seen  by  special  request. 

\st  Room.  27,700.  Satyr  and  the  Goat — a  group  from 
Herculaneum.      27,834.  Tripod  supported  by  three  Satyrs. 

2nd  Room.  Contains  in  three  glass  cases  the  most  famous 
amulets  against  fascination  in  use  in  ancient  times. 

Returning  to  the  staircase,  we  ascend  to  the 

First  Floor, 

and  turn  to  the  left  into  the  east  wing  for  the  Antiquities, 
comprising  Articles  of  Food,  Paintings,  Marbles,  Bronzes,  Lares, 
Statuettes,  objects  for  women's  use,  apjjaratus  for  lighting  and 
warming. 

At  the  end  of  the  passage,  to  the  right,  are  the 
1ST    &    2ND    Rooms.      Eatables.       Here,    in  glass   cases, 
are  seen  the   charred  remains  of  food,    such  as   bread,  olives, 


THE    NATIONAL    MUSEUM.  45 

figs,  etc.,  which  were  in  common  use  in  Pompeii.  In 
other  glass  cases  are  liquids,  such  as  oil  and  essences  ;  also 
the  colours  used  by  Pompeian  artists.  In  order  to  complete 
the  picture  of  real  life,  paintings  representing  fruit,  vegetables, 
fish,  etc.,  adorn  the  walls. 

3RD  Room.  Lares.  An  ample  collection  of  statuettes  of 
Divinities  found  in  the  .Sacrarii,  where  the  household  gods 
were  kept,  is  evidence  of  the  wide  use  of  sucli  sculptures 
applied  to  domestic  worship.  These  are  of  various  styles-^ 
Egyptian,  Etruscan,  Greek,  .Archaic,  Italian,  Roman  and 
Alexandrian. 

4TH   Room.      Safes.      The  use  of  safes  or  strong  boxes  to 
contain    valuable    treasures    is    shown    by   the    presence    of  ^^ 
Bronze  Coffers,  graceful   in    form,  and    with    sculptures    of 
a  high  order  of  merit.     Statuettes,  &c. 

5TH   Room.      Lamps,  amphoras,  vas-^s,  &c. 

6th  Room.  Vases  for  Domestic  and  Religious  Use. 
Lamps  and  Lampstands.  The  finest  bronze  vases  for 
domestic  use  or  public  worship  are  shown  in  Two  Glass 
Cases,  and  comprise  ewers,  amphorje,  pans,  bottles,  jugs, 
cups,  and  buckets.  Also  admirable  examples  of  lamp-stands, 
and  some  small  lamps  beautifully  sculptured.  Candelabra, 
theatre-tickets,  &c. 

ypH  Room.     Candelabra,  lamps,  &c. *^ 

8th  Room.  Cooking  stove,  kettle,  surgical,  musical,  and 
mathematical  instruments,  weights  and  measures,  &c. 

9TH  Room. 

In  the  centre  a  great  Plan  or  Model  of  Pompeii  in  which 
all  the  streets  of  the  city  are  shown  in  relief  in  cork  with 
surprising  precision,  and  on  a  scale  of  i  :  100. 

In  the  Wall  Cases  are  kitchen  utensils,  fishing  tackle 
etc.     On  the  walls  copies  of  Pompeian  Frescoes. 

In  the  National  Library  which  occupies  the  larger  part 
of  this  wing,  there  are  altogether  about  380,000  volumes, 
8,000  MSS.,  a  collection  of  300  Aldines,  and  many  rare 
specimens  of  early  German  or  Italian  printing.  The  Library 
is  also  rich  in  Autogra])h.s,  Missals,  Breviaries,  etc.  It  is 
open,  by  a  separate  entrance,  to  all  comers,  from  9  to  4  daily, 
except  Sundays  and  holidays. 

The  whole  of  the  West  Wing  is  occupied  by  the  Picture 
Gallery,  which  was  completely  rearranged  in  1909.  An 
official     catalogue     has     been     [)ublished,     but    the     following 


46  NAPLES. 

condensed    description    of  the  pictures  will,  in  the  absence  of 
this,  be  found  serviceable. 

The  Farnesian  Collection  of  the  Rinascimento,  with  the 
Sculptures  and  Casts,  dating  from  1700  to  1800  are  all 
arranged  on  the  first  floor  of  the  Museum  next  to  the  Picture 
Gallery.  Thus  all  the  modern  collections  are  united,  and 
entirely  separated  from  the  ancient,  including  also  the 
Firmiana    collection  of  Engravings. 

Picture  Gallery. 

The  Catalogue  Nos.  are  given  in  brackets. 

The  first  two  rooms  are  occupied  by  the  Tapestries  {Arazzi), 
the  work  of  B.  voti  Orley,  bequeathed  to  the  Museum  by  the 
Marchesi  del  ^^lsto  and  representing-  incidents  in  the  battle  of 
Pavia. 

Room  ITI  (A.  da  Salerno). 

(3x4).     84,437.      0"G     of     the     Magi     and 

Charles  of  Anjou  .  .  Nicolo  Fnimenti. 

(313).     84,442.     One   of   the   Magi  (portrait 

of  Robert,  King  of  Sicily)  Aicolo  Frumenti. 
(305).     84,480.     St.  Jerome  Extracts   Thorn 

from  Lion's  Foot   .  .  .  Colentonio. 

Rooms  IV  &  V  (Neapolitan  School,  i6th-i8th  centuries). 
Works  by  Z.  Giordano,  P.  Novelli,  F.  Solifneiia,  A.  and  A^. 
Vaccaro,  etc. 

Room  VI  (Italian  School). 


(2) 

(13). 
(10) 

(9) 


84,271.  .  Christ  and  the  Magdalen       .  B.  Daddi 

84,044.     Assumption      .  .  Fra  BartoUmieo. 

84,193.     Virgin  and  Child         .  Sandro  Botticelli. 

84,198.     The  Annunciation      .  .     Filippo  JJppi. 

84,209!     ^trjohn  '.  School  of  Ghirlatidaio. 


Room  VII.  (Bologna  School). 

(220).     83,895.     A    Soldier   announcing    the 

Slaughter  of  the  Innocents  Bai-t.  Schidone. 

(222).     83,865.     St.  John  the  Baptist  .  .       Idem. 

'245).     84,122.     Hercules  between  Vice  and 

Virtue  .  .  .  .A.  Caracci. 


THE    NATIONAL    MUSEUM.  47 


(260) 

84,030. 

Atalanta  and  Hippomenes    . 

G.  Reni. 

(253)- 

84,043. 

Bacchante 

A.  Caracci. 

(265) 

84,013. 

The  Guardian  Angel  . 

Doinenichino. 

(247) 

84,141. 

Rinaldo  and  Armida  . 

A.  Caracci. 

(248). 

84,129. 

Satirical  composition  against 

da 

Caravaggio 

A.  Caracci. 

Room  VIII  (ItaHan  Schooi.s,  1 6th- 17th  century). 

(261).     84,095.     Ulysses  with  Nausica  .         Guido  Reni. 

(246).     83,984.     Pieta        .  .  .         Annibale  Caracci. 

(214).     83,841.     Cupid  Sleeping  .  .    Bart.  Schidone. 

(280).     83,981.     Penitent  Magdalen 

Francesco  Barbieri  (il  Gutrcino). 
(95).     83,986.     The  Raising  of  Lazarus       .  Bassano. 

Room   IX.   (Pannini). 

(155).  83,816.  Charles  III.  of  Bourbon 
visiting  Benedict  XIV.  in  the 
Vatican  .  .  .    Giampaolo  Pa/inini. 

(154).     83,810.      Charles  III.   in   the   Square 

of  St.  Peter's  ....       Idem. 

(158).     83,764.     View  of  the  Coliseum         School  of  Pannini. 
(159).     83,814.     Ferdinando  IV.  of  Bourbon 

at  12  years    ....  Mengs. 

(597).     84,563.     Portrait  of  Ranucci  Farnese 

School  of  Van  Dyck. 
(107).  83,911,  83,914,  83,918,  83,923,  83,925,  83,929, 
83.945'  83,947,  83,951,  83,955,  83,959)  83,962— Twelve 
beautiful  Views  of  Venice  by  Canaktto,  which  were 
formerly  in  the  Royal  Palace,  and  placed  in  the  Museum, 
August  18,  1829. 

Room  X  contains  a  number  of  portraits  (miniatures)  of  the 
Farnese  family  and  paintings  of  the  Neapolitan  School. 

Room  XI  (Ferrara  and  Parma  Schools). 

Room  XII  ((^orreggio). 

(16).     83,995.     Portrait  of  a  Prelate  Andrea  del  Sarto. 

(195).     84,196.     Portrait  of  Gianbernardo  of 

Castel  Bolognese    .  .  //  Parmigiano. 


48  NAPLES. 

(196).     83,832.     The  Virgin  and  the  Infant 

Christ  Fravcesco  Mazzuoli  {il  Pannii^ianino). 
(203).     83,874.     The  Annunciation     .  .      J'ar/iiigianifio. 

(176).     83,q69.      jVladonna    iiT^^ejiose     (La 

ZingareTTT)  "  Aiitonw  Allegri  (//  Correggio). 
i^n)-     ^3)972-     The  Marriage  of  St.  Catherine  Idem. 


Room  XIII  (Titian). 


(74). 
(138). 

(74). 
J75)- 


83,Q74.     Portrait  _oLPauLn  I.     . 
83,809.     Christ  bearing  the  Cross 


sons    Octavio    and    Alexander 
Farnese      .... 

(78).     83,977.     Portrait  of  PhiHp  II. 

(79).     84,019.     Penitent  Magdajgn     . 


Titian. 


Titian. 


Jdem. 

Titian. 

Idem. 


Room  XIV  (Raphael). 

(86).     84,039.  Portrait    of   Pope     Clement 

VII  .            .            .    Sebastia)io  del  Pionibo. 

84,024.  Antea        Francesco  Mazzola  {il  Parmigiano). 

84,000.  Portrait  of  the  Cav.  Tebaldeo        F.  Salviati. 

83,988.  Madonna   della   Gatta            Gi/ilio  Romano. 

8-t,oo2.  Leo^X.              ....    Raphael. 

83,791.,  JIi£j\'^iryin  jjiillb^JillaivLClvist  •          Idem. 


(190) 
(21) 
(136) 
(131) 
(134) 
(18) 


84,036.     An  Old  Man  giving  a  lesson 

on  Architecture  to  a  Youth  II  Bronzino. 

(83).     83,913.     Portrait  of  a  Young  Lady 

School  of  Verojiese. 


Room  XV  (Venetian  and  Tuscan  Schools). 

(67). 
(53)- 
(56). 

(59). 
(61). 


84,011.     Holy  Family    .  .  .    S.  G.  Antonio. 

83,946.     jt^^jjphemi^a  .         Andrea  Mantegna. 

83,902.     The  Virgin  and  Infant  Christ 

Alvise  Vivarini. 
83,990.     The  Transfiguration  .  Giovanni  Bellini. 

84,261.     The     Virgin     Enthroned 


Triptych 


Antonio  Solaria  (lo  Zingarc 


Room  XVI  (Neapolitan  School). 


THE    NATIONAL    MUSEUM.  49 

Room  XYll  (Ribera). 

(644).     83,861.     The  Miracle  of  the  Loaves 

Cliristopher  Stare r. 
(359J.  83,980.  St.  Jerome  Giusepf'c  Ribera  {/o  Spagnoletfo). 
(365).      84,427.      St.  Agatha  School  of  Massimo  Stafizio/ie. 

(437).     84,362.     The  Deposition  .  .    Liua  Giordano. 

(384).     83,979.     St.  Jerome       ...  G.  Ribera. 

Room  XVIII  (Salvator  Rosa). 

(411)     83,967.     Christ    Disputing    with     the 

Doctors       ....     Salvator  Rosa. 

Room  XIX  (Velasquez). 

(1594).     83,970.      Portrait  .  .  .  A/itofiio  Vandyck. 

(605-6).  84,578.      Fruit  and  Flowers        Giovanni    Van  Kessel. 

(626).     84^5Q8^_.^ortrait  of  the  Master    Sc/iool  of  Rembrandt. 

(354).     84,042.     Drunken  Silenus 

Giuseppe  Ribera  {lo  Spagno/et/o). 

(654).     84,048.     Men  Drinking — Pastel  frojii 

fEe    Tainting    by    VeLsquez    at 

Madrid  .  .  Schoo/  of  Seville. 

Rooms  XX  and  XXI  (Netherlands  School  principally). 

Room  XXII  (Breughel). 

(577).     84,467.     The  Birth  of  Christ  .  /.  Gorneli<:z. 

(575).  84,439.  The  Adoration  of  the  Magi  y.  Van  der  Beke. 
(584).     84ac)o^^jrhe    Parable   of   the    Blind 

Men  '.  ^  T'PTBrueohel  the  Elder. 

(585).     84,486.      Hermit  Whose  Purse  Strings 

are  Cut         ....  Brueghel. 

(552).     84,473.     Portrait  of  Maximilian    I    of 

Austria         .  .  .  Luke  de  Leyden. 

Room  XXIII.   Room  of  Embroideries. 

The  walls  are  hung  with  embroideries  executed  in  Naples. 
'I'hey  represent  the  nine  Muse.s,  with  architectural  background.s, 
and  animals  and  plants. 

I''our  busts  represent  the  four  seasons. 

Room  XXIV  contains  small  bronzes,  statuettes,  &c. 
Room  XXV  has  a  collection  of  prints  and  engravings. 


50  NAPLES. 

From   Room  XXV.  we  ascend  by  a  small  staircase  to  the 
Second  Floor,  where  in  the  east  wing  are  exhibited  collections 
of  Enamels,    Majolica,    Olass,    Gold  Ornaments,    Silver  Orna- 
ments,    Greek,     Italian,    and    Gladiatorial    Weapon.s,    Papyri 
Medals,  and  Ceramic  \Vare. 


Second   Floor. 

isf  Room.  Enamels  and  Majolica.  'i'his  important 
collection  includes  a  number  of  specimens  of  a  kind  of 
earthenware  with  a  coloured  glaze.  In  the  centre  (72990)  an 
inlaid  dish  of  bronze. 

Two  cases  contain  ivory  objects. 

2nd  Room.  Ordinary  Glass.  Here  in  handsome  cases 
are  exhibited  hundreds  of  objects  of  ordinary  glass  for 
daily  use,  including  bowls,  beakers,  bottles  of  all  shapes, 
drinking  glasses,  amphorae,  cups,  plate-,  and  chemist's  outfit. 
In  the  front  table-cases  are  women's  toilet  articles. 

2,rd  Room.  Coloured  Glass.  In  this  magnificent  collec- 
tion of  ancient  glass  special  attention  should  be  directed 
to  13,521,  a  Funereal  Urn  found  at  Pompeii  in  the  Tomb  ot 
the  Garland.  It  is  of  cut  glass,  white  Cupids  on  a  blue 
ground,  with  a  wreath  of  exquisitely  chiselled  leaves. 

4//z  Room.  Gold  Ornaments.  Collections  from  J'ompeii, 
Herculaneau,  Ctimce,  Canossa,  and  Pozzuoli,  consisting  of  rings, 
necklaces,  diadems,  funeral  wreaths,  chains,  bracelets,  collars, 
bands,  and  leaves  of  gold  of  the  finest  workmanship.  Near 
the  window  is  the  celebrated  Tazza  Farnese,  a  vessel  made  of 
onyx  with  figures  in  relief. 

^th  Ream.  Silver  Ornaments.  Beautiful  and  rich  col- 
lection of  goblets,  vases,  tablets,  cups,  spoon«,  medallions. 
25,376-77.  Two  goblets  with  centaurs,  from  the  house  of 
Meleager  at  Pompeii.     75,091.  Bronze  inkstand. 

.  In  the  centre  25,289.    Bucket,  with  the  toilet  of  Venus   at 
the  Bath. 

•  6///  Room.  Greek,  Italian  and  Gladiatorial  Arms. 
The  Italian  and  Roman  weapons  were  found  in  the  soldiers^ 
barracks  at  Pompeii.  The  Greek  weapons  were  found  in  the 
tombs  of  Ruvi.,  Cano^sa,  and  PcBsfi/m,  in  1806,  including 
armlets,  belts,  shields,  helmets,  etc. 

There  are  also  richly  decorated  gladiatorial  helmets,  shields, 
and  trumpets. 


THE    NATIONAL    MUSEUM.  5  I 

']tli  Room.  Papyri.  A  large  number  of  Papyri  in  rolls, 
found  at  Herculaneum  in  a  carbonised  condition  in  1752,  have 
been  patiently  and  skilfully  unrolled  and  rendered  legible  by 
the  Abate  Antonio  Piatti.  Some  thirty  of  these  have  been 
published,  and  great  disappointment  felt  on  finding  that  the 
Library  from  which  the  Papyri  came  belonged  to  a  philosopher 
named  Philodemus  of  the  school  of  Epicurus,  who  only  wrote 
treatises  on  rhetoric  and  philosophy,  of  little  general  interest  or 
importance. 

It  is  to  be  hoped  that  some  of  the  unpublished,  or  yet  un- 
rolled papyri  will  be  more  valuable. 

In  this  room  also  are  eighty  wooden  tablets  found  in  the 
house  of  the  Poni|)eian  usurer,  L.  Cecilius  Jucundus,  inscribed 
with  accounts,  contracts,  receipts,  and  payments,  and  other 
entries  connected  with  a  commercial  office. 

8//z  Room.  Medals  and  Coins.  This  large  collection, 
arranged  by  Signor  Fiorelli,  is  displayed  in  ten  wall  cases. 
The  medals  are  classified  into  Italian  and  Foreign. 

The  Coins  are  divided  as  follows  :  Greek,  Greek-Campanian, 
Roman,  Mediaeval,  Modern. 

9//^  and  other  Rooms.  Ceramic  Ware.  This  collection, 
numbering  4,000  Vases  of  every  epoch  from  the  most  ancient 
to  that  of  Magna  Grecia,  is  perhaps  the  richest  in  the  world. 
It  comprises  the 

Collections  from  Southern  Italy ;  the 
Cumsean  Collection  ;   and  the 
Santangelo  Collection. 

The  Italian  Vases  are  mostly  from  the  tombs  of  Lower  Italy, 
of  native  workmanship. 

The  Cum?ean  ('ollection  consists  chiefly  of  vases,  terra-cottas, 
and  small  bronzes.  These  were  jjurchased  from  the  heirs  of 
the  Count  of  Syracuse  by  the  Prince  of  ('arignano  and  pre- 
sented to  the  Museum. 

The  Santangelo  Collection  is  arranged  in  two  rooms  reached 
from  the  Medal  Room.  It  is  rich  in  vases,  coin.s,  mosaics, 
statuettes,  arms,  terra-cotta,  and  a  great  variety  of  pottery. 

In  one  large  room  have  been  placed  the  finest  Greek  Vases, 
conspicuous  among  which  is  the  Destruction  of  Troy,  a 
three-handled  vase  found  in  a  Roman  tomb  at  Akda,  in  1797, 
and  acquired  by  ihe  Museum  from  the  Vincenzio  family  for 
10,000  scudi.  Also  the  large  two-handled  painted  Vase  found 
at  Nocera  Alfaterna. 


52  NAPLES. 

Continuing  the  inspection,  in  the  other  rooms  are  many  vases 
from  the  factories  of  Magna  Grecia,  catalcjgued  by  Patroni. 


UNIVERSITY     AND     COLLEGES,     ETC. 

Since  the  year  1780  the  University  has  been  lodged  in  the 
Convent  of  II  Gesu  Vecchio  {Marco  di  Pino).  The  President 
is  also  ex  officio  head  of  the  Board  of  Public  Instruction  ;  there  is 
a  Rector,  General  Secretary,  a  hundred  professors,  and  several 
thousand  students.  Collections  of  National  History,  Miner- 
alogy, etc.,  in  halls  recently  built.  Unique  collection  of 
Minerals  from  Vesuvius.  The  Library,  on  the  upper  floor,  is 
open  from  9  to  7  daily.  In  the  great  court  are  statues  of 
Giordano  Bruno,  S.  Thomas  Aquinas,  and  other  eminent 
Neapolitans.  Busts  of  less  known  local  celebrities  in  Upper 
Corridor. 

A  new  University  building  in  the  Corso  Alberto  Primo  has 
just  been  completed  for  the  faculties  of  Law  and  Philosophy. 

College  of  Music,  founded  in  1537.  Lodged  since  1826 
in  the  monastery  of  San  Pietro  a  Maiella.  A  hundred  pupils  on 
foundation  for  free  instruction ;  others  taught  for  9  ducats  a 
month.  Bellijii  was  a  student  here.  (Statue  in  the  Piazza 
di  Santa  Maria  di  Constantinopoli  close  by).  Zingarelli  and 
Mercadante  have  been  directors.  Valual)le  library  of  musical 
works,  autograph  compositions  of  Cimarosa,  Faesiello,  Belii/ii, 
Pergolese,  and  other  Neapolitan  masters.  Small  theatre  for 
rehearsals. 

Libraries. 

W^e  have  described  the  National  Library  in  our  account 
of  the  Museum  (p.  45). 

Biblioteca  Brancacciana,  attached  to  S.  Angelo  a  Nilo. 
{see  p.  35).  Oldest  Library  in  Naples.  Founded  1675  by 
Card.  F.  M.  Brancaccio.  About  70,000  printed  books  and 
7,000  MSS.  The  former  rich  in  works  on  jurisprudence  ;  the 
latter  mostly  historical.  (Open  daily  for  two  hours  before  sun- 
set). 

Biblioteca  dell'  Universita.  Chiefly  founded  from 
libraries  of  suppressed  convents.  Most  frequented  library  in 
Italy.  About  350,000  volumes.  Rich  in  15th-century  books, 
etc.  {see  above). 


PALACES.  53 

Biblioteca  dei  Qerolomini,  formerly  library  of  the  Oratory 
of  S.  Filippo  Neri,  18,000  books,  60  MSS.  Among  the  latter 
a  Seneca  (14th  century),  illuminations  attributed  to  Lo 
Zingara.     Open  daily  9  to  1 1  a.m. 

Biblioteca  del  Municipio,  chiefly  founded  from  Bourbon 
private  library.  Easy  of  access.  The  only  library  open  in  the 
evening  (6-10). 

Some  private  libraries  can  be  used.  Amongst  others  the 
Filioli  ;  the  Fasco  (with  valuable  numismatic  collection) ; 
Policastro,  with  complete  collection  of  books  printed  in 
Naples ;  the  Santo  Pio,  rich  in  princeps  editions  of  the 
Classics;  early  Italian  poets  {e.g.,  a  Dante,  1378;  and  a 
Petrarch,  Venice,  on  parchment,  1470);  also  in  early  Bibles 
and  Aldines. 

The  National  Archives.  In  rooms  of  suppressed  convent 
of  SS.  Severino  e  Sosio  (p.  34).  Admission  l)y  permission 
of  the  Director.  In  four  sections,  i.  Historical  and  Diplo- 
matic. 2.  Financial.  3.  Judicial.  4.  Municipal.  Some 
40,000  of  these  most  valuable  documents  are  parchment  MSS., 
and  those  of  the  Angevin  period  alone  number  380,000. 

The  first  or  historical  section  is  of  most  general. interest, 
containing  documents  from  about  a.d.  700,  to  the  close  of  the 
Spanish  regency.  Permission  to  inspect  any  of  the  documents 
must  be  obtained  from  the  Director  of  the  Archives. 


Palazzo  Reale. 

The  Royal  Palace,  or  Palazzo  Reale  (closed  to  the  public), 
is  an  immense  block  of  buildings,  upwards  of  550  feet  in 
length.  The  architecture  is  a  combination  of  the  Doric,  Ionic 
and  Corinthian,  there  being  separate  rows  of  pillars  of  each  of 
these  orders,  one  above  the  other,  along  the  facade  of  the 
I)alace.      In  niches  are  marble  statues  of  8  Neapolitan  rulers. 

On  application  to  the  intcndant  of  the  palace,  an  order  may 
be  obtained  which  will  admit  a  party  of  six  to  the  Capodimonte 
(p.  14)  and  Caserta  Palaces  (p.  65),  on  Sundays  and 
Thursdays. 

The  first  part  of  the  palace  to  which  the  traveller  is  conducted 
is  the  garden  =  terrace,  which  has  a  handsome  marble  table  in 
its  centre  ;  this  terrace  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  harbour  and 
arsenal,  etc. 

E  2 


54  NAPLES. 

Room  I. — From  this  may  be  seen  the  theatre  and  dining- 
room.     A  picture  of  the  Holy  Family  by  Spagiioleito. 

Room  II. — Christ  in  the  Temple  .  .  .       Caravaggio. 

John  the  Baptist  ....     Caracci. 

Carita  ......  Schidone. 

Room  III. — This  is  the  throne=room,  and  is  upholstered 
in  crimson  and  gold.  The  bas-reliefs  represent  the  different 
provmces.  The  silk  brocade  was  made  by  the  working  people 
at  the  poorhouse  in  1818. 

Room  IV.  is  a  gallery,  and"  contains  little  of  interest  except  a 
few  Sevres  vases. 

Room  V.  contains  a  writing-table,  the  gift  of  ^he  City  of 
Naples. 

There  are  other  chambers,  in  which  see,  amongst  other 
pictures, 

Leonardo  da  Vinci  parting  with  "  The  Last 

Supper  "........  Podesti. 

Portrait ........        Van  Dyck. 

Portrait  (of  the  Netherlands  School). 

Usurer  .......       Qiiintin  Matsys. 

Cardinal  ......      Domenichino  (.?). 

Henry  VIII Holbein. 

Alessandro     ........    Titian. 

The  staircase  is  perhaps  the  finest  portion  of  the  building 
(constructed  1 651),  and  is  about  the  only  part  of  the  original 
palace  to  be  seen,  the  rest  having  been  destroyed  by  fire  in 
1837.  The  emblematical  statues  of  the  rivers  Ebro  and 
Tagus  at  the  foot  remind  one  of  the  recent  Spanish  rule. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  Palace,  in  a  small  garden,  is  a 
statue  of  Italia  commemorating  the  annexation  of  Naples  in 
i860. 

Palazzo  Reale  di  Capodimonte 

(open  Sunday  and  Thursday,  with  permit,  see  p.  211,  10  till  4) 
\i  situated  on  the  most  beautiful  and  elevated  spot  in  Naples. 
Begun  by  Charles  III.  in  1738,  it  was  completed  by  Ferdinand 
II.,  in  1834.  Fine  park  and  gardens  (3  miles  in  circumference), 
with  charming  prospects  (open  on  Sundays  only).  The  enclo- 
sure called  the  Bosco  is  closed  during  April  and  May.  Fifty- 
five  spacious  rooms.  Paintings,  chiefly  modern,  in  the  Royal 
Museum  (fee  50  c).    Catalogues  in  each  room.     Fine  collection 


PALACES.  55 

of  armour,  including  helmet  and  shield  of  the  Norman  Roger  ; 
sword  given  by  Louis  XIV.  to  Philip  of  Anjou,  and  that  given 
by  Ferdinand  I.  to  Scanderbeg.  Arms  of  Alexander  Farnese, 
Victor  Amadeus,  etc.  One  room  is  decorated  with  Capodimonte 
porcelain  (now  very  rare). 

Near  the  Park  Gates  is  the  reservoir  of  the  new  waterworks  ; 
and  at  a  short  distance  is  the  Observatory,  founded  in  1812, 
and  enlarged  in  1820. 

Private  Palaces. 

Of  these  there  are  many  in  Naples,  though  but  few  claim 
attention,  eitht-r  as  regards  architecture  or  objects  of  art.  The 
most  worthy  of  note  are  the  following  : 

Palazzo  Arcivescovile,  in  the  Via  del  Duomo  (facing  the 
Church  of  Santa  Maria  Donna  Regina),  erected  in  the 
13th  century,  restored  by  Cardinal  Filomarino  in  the 
17th  century. 

Palazzo  Cuomo,  a  fine  15th-century  building,  in  the  Via 
del  Duomo ;  was  removed  and  carefully  re-erected  on  its 
present  site  in  1882-86,  and  presented  to  the  town  by  Prince 
Gaetano  Filangieri  as  the  Museo  Civico  Filangieri.  It 
contains  mosaics,  antique  weapons,  enamels,  gems,  majolicas, 
etc.,  and  some  60  pictures,  Italian  and  Dutch,  in  a  fine  hall  on 
the  first  floor.  Catalogue,  2  1.,  in  the  galleries.  Admission, 
Tuesday  and  Saturday,  10  till  2,  free;  Thursday  by  permission 
of  tile  Keeper. 

Palazzo  d'Angri,  in  the  Strada  Sant'  Anna  dei  Lombard!, 
built  by  Luigi  Vanvitelli,  1773,  and  occupied  by  Garilwldi 
when  Dictator,  i860. 

Palazzo  di  Donn'  Anna,  in  the  Strada  Nuova  di  Posilipo, 
in  ruins,  having  been  commenced  by  Fansaga,  1630,  for  Anna 
Carafa,  wife  of  the  Viceroy  Duke  of  Medina,  but  never  com- 
pleted. 

Palazzo  de'  Minister!,  or  Municipio,  in  the  Piazza  del 
Municipio,  erected  in  1820  under  the  Bourbons,  by  the 
architects  Luigi  and  Stefano  Gasse.  In  the  gateway  of  this 
handsome  building  are  the  statues  of  Kings  Roger  and 
Frederick  II. 

Palazzo  Fondi,  in  the  Strada  Medina,  designed  by  Luigi 
Vanvitelli,  containing  a  gallery  of  pictures.     Gratuity  to  porter. 

Palazzo  Qravina,  Strada  Monteoliveto,  finest  palace  in 
Naples  as  a  work   of  art.     Erected  for  the  Duca  di  Gravina 


56  NAPLES. 

and  designed  by  Gabriele  d"  Agnolo  in  15 13,  but  modernised 
and  converted  into  the  General  Post  and  Telegraph 
Offices  (see  p.    i). 

^a\3iT.io  Maddaloni,  in  the  Strada  Trinita  Maggiore, 
designed  by  Fansaga,  1628,  containing  handsome  staircase, 
fine  rooms,  and  massive  gateway. 

Castel  Capuano 

was  the  palace  of  the  Suabian  and  Angevine  monarchs. 
Here  Covella  Ruffo,  Duchess  of  Sessa,  came  from  the  ball-room 
to  trample  on  the  bleeding  corpse  of  her  victim,  J.  Caracciolo, 
favourite  of  Joanna  II.  (1370-1435).  In  1540  the  law  courts 
were  established  here  by  Don  Pedro.  Beneath  the  Criminal 
Court  are  prisons. 

Castel  del  Carmine. 

Now  used  for  military  purposes.  Founded  by  Ferdinand  I., 
1484;  enlarged  by  Don  Pedro.  Stronghold  of  the  people 
under  Masaniello  in  1647.  The  prison  of  distinguished  patriots 
under  Queen  Caroline  and  Cardinal  Ruffo,  in  1796. 

Castel  deir  Ovo. 

On  a  small  island  (the  Megaris  of  Pliny)  reached  from  the 
south  end  of  the  Pizzofalcone  by  an  embankment  and  bridge. 

So  named  from  its  shape.  Founded  11 54,  by  William  I. 
The  frescoes  of  Giotto  have  entirely  disappeared.  Here  the 
witty  painter  held  frequent  conference  with  his  patron,  Robert 
the  Wise.  Noted  by  Froissart  as  a  place  of  remarkable 
strength.  Destroyed  by  Ferdinand  II.  after  its  capture  by 
Charles  VIII.  in  1495  j  restored  1534  by  Don  Pedro.  Now 
a  barracks  and  military  prison. 

Castel  Nuovo, 

in  the  Strada  Medina,  was  built  in  1283  by  Charles  I. 
Designed  by  Giovanni  da  Pisa.  Most  of  present  works  date 
from  1546,  under  Don  Pedro  de  Toledo.  Charles  III.  of 
Bourbon  gave  it  its  present  form.  Two  round  towers,  capable 
of  threatening  the  city,  pulled  down  in  1862.  Entrance  on 
the  N.  side. 


CASTEL    SANT'    ELMO — BRIDGES.  57 

Triumphal  Arch  (with  bronze  gates  valued  at  several 
millions  of  francs),  built   to   celebrate  the  entry  of  Alphonso  I 
(1442). 

Bas-reliefs     .....  JMerliano,  Fiorenti/io,  etc 
Statues  of  Saint.s,  etc.     ....  Giov.  da  Nola. 

Special  permission  from  the  Minister  for  War  required  to 
visit  the  Armoury,  once  the  Hall  (jf  Reception  of  Kings  of 
Naples. 

Picture  of  S.  Francesca  di  Paola  .  .  .  Spagnoletto. 

In  the  inner  court  is  situate  the  Church  of  Santa  Barbara 

(gratuity  i  1.). 

Portal         ......   GitiHatw  da  Alaja/io. 

Adoration  of  the  Magi  .  .  .  -J-  '^^cin  Eyck. 

Statue  of  Virgin  and  Child  .  .  Giitl.  da  Aiajano. 

Ciborium,  with  reliefs  ......   Ibid. 

Winding  Stairs  (158  steps)  to  summit  of  the  Campanile, 
attributed  to  Giov.  da  Pisa. 

The  Dockyard  and  Arsenal  adjoin  the  Castel  Nuovo. 
Opposite  the  Arsenal  is  a  bronze  statue  (1910)  of  King 
Humbert  I. 

Castel  Sant'   Elmo, 

reached  from    the  Corso    Vittorio   Emanuele    by  steep   bridle 
paths,  or  by  the  Rione  Vomero  Cable  Tramways  {see  p.  3). 

Founded  1329,  by  Robert  the  Wise.  Architect,  Giaco/iio  de 
Sanciis.  \Vhat  is  now  seen  is  probably  the  work  of  Don  Pedro. 
View  from  the  Ramparts  very  fine.  Now  a  military  prison. 
Admission  only  by  special  permission  from  the  Commandant- 
General,  Largo  Plebiscito,  but  roof  may  be  ascended  on 
application  to  sentry  ;  gratuity.  Beneath  is  an  enormous 
cistern,  as  wide  as  the  Castle,  also  a  subterranean  passage 
leading  direct  to  the  Royal  Passage  in  Naples.  For  particulars 
of  the  suppressed  Carthusian  Monastery  of  •S'^/'/  Alarft/io,  within 
the  fortifications  {see  p.  30). 

Bridges. 

Ponte  della  Maddalena,  over  the  Sebeto.  Built  by 
Charles  HI.,  in  place  of  a  more  ancient  one. 

Ponte  della  Sanita,  a  viaduct,  being  part  of  road  made  in 
i8oy  by  the  French,  from  the  Toledo  to  Capodimonte. 


58  NAl'LES. 

Ponte  deir  Immacolatella,  near  the  Molo  Piccolo. 
Erected  hy  Charles  III.;  rebuilt  1843. 

Ponte  di  Chiaia,  a  viaduct,  connecting  hills  of  Pizzofalcone 
and  Sant'  Klmo.     Built  1634;  rebuilt  1838. 


Ports. 

Porto  Mercantile,  N.  of  the  Molo.  Constructed  1302,  by 
Charles  II.  of  Anjou,  at  the  same  time  as  the  Molo.  Harbour 
enlarged  1740.  This  port  presents  a  very  interesting  and  lively 
scene.  Boats  for  excursions  on  the  bay  can  be  had  here. 
Previous  understanding  must  be  come  to  and  enforced. 

Porto  Militare  (1826),  5  fathoms  deep,  is  enclosed  by  the 
old  Molo  (N.)  and  a  strong  breakwater  (S.),  extending  1,100 
feet  into  the  sea.  Vessels  of  the  Italian  navy  may  often  be 
inspected  here.  In  the  S.W.  corner  are  the  Darsena  and  the 
Arsenale  della  Marina,  with  dockyards,  etc. 

Porto  Piccolo,  the  last  remnant  of  ancient  Neapolis,  opens 
out  of  the  Porto  Mercantile.  Now  half  buried  in  sand,  and 
used  for  small  boats  only.  Traces  of  an  ancient  lighthouse 
exist,  whence  name  of  adjacent  street,  Lanterna  ^^ecchia. 
Close  by,  on  the  Molo  Piccolo,  are  the  Immacolatella, 
whence  steamers  for  Capri  and  Ischia  start,  and  further  down 
is  the  new  Maritime  Station  (also  called  Immacolatella 
Vecchia),  with  the  Sanita  offices,  etc.  Adjoining  is  the  cjuay 
at  which  travellers  arriving  by  sea  disembark. 


Gates. 

The  mediaeval  fortifications  of  Naples  have  mostly  dis- 
appeared, except  the  three  castles,  and  some  remains  of  the 
wall  and  ditch,  and  a  few  gates  which  have  been  modernised. 

Porta  Alba,  near  the  Via  de'  Tribunali,  erected  in  1632. 

Porta  Capuana,  at  the  beginning  of  an  old  road  to  Capua. 
Erected  by  Eerdinand  I.  ;  but  the  modern  ornamented  gate 
dates  from  1535,  entry  of  Charles  V.  Two  ancient  towers, 
BO  no  re  and  La  Virlu. 

Porta  del  Carmine,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Castel  del 
Carmine.  Of  this  structure  only  the  two  massive  round  towers 
remain. 

Porta  Nolana  opens  on  the  Corso  Garibaldi.  Two  round 
towers,  Santa  Fe  and  Speranza.     Bas-reliefs  of  Ferdinand  I. 


STREETS  AND  PUBLIC  PLACES.  59 

Streets  and  Public  Places. 

Galleria  Vittoria.  A  covered  gallery  with  shops,  winter- 
garden,  concert-rooms,  and  Cook's  Offices.  In  the  Via 
Chiatamone,  at  the  corner  of  the  Via  Vittoria. 

Galleria  Principe  di  Napoli.  A  covered  bazaar,  designed 
by  Alvino.     Opposite  the  Museum  {see  p.  36). 

Galleria  Umberto  Primo.  In  the  Via  Roma  (Toledo),  a 
handsome  structure  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  Cross,  resembling 
the  Galleria  Vittorio  Emanuele  at  Milan.  Cafes,  concerts, 
shops.      Built  in  1887-90. 

Largo  del  Castello,  now  Piazza  del  Municipio.  Largest 
square  in  Naples.  Gardens,  etc.  Busy  Centre  of  traffic.  Town 
hall  built  in  1819-25.  Police  Offices,  Finance  Offices,  Bank 
of  Naples,  and  Bourse.  Equestrian  statue  of  Victor  Emmanuel 
II.  by  Franceschi,  1897  {see  p.  11). 

Piazza  del  Mercato  {see  p.  8). 

Piazza  San  Domenico.  Several  palaces.  Obelisk  and 
statue,  Fa/isaga. 

Piazza  Medina,  adjoining  the  Piazza  del  Municipio, 
contains  the  statue  of  Mercadante,  operatic  composer. 

Piazza  Cavour,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Museum,  to  the 
north  leads  10  the  Strada  Foria,  thence  the  Strada  del  Duomo 
leads  (south)  to  the  Cathedral  (p.  15). 

Piazza  del  Plebiscite.  On  the  right  the  royal  palace ; 
op[)osite  is  the  Prefecture  ;  on  the  W.  side  is  the  handsome 
church  of  vS.  Francesco  di  Paola,  with  dome  and  arcades, 
an  imitation  of  the  Pantheon  at  Rome,  erected  1818-31. 
Statues  and  pictures  by  modern  Italian  masters.  Admission 
till  noon.  Opposite  the  church  are  tw^o  colossal  bronze 
equestrian  statues  of  Charles  III.  and  Ferdinand  I.  Band  on 
the  Piazza  on  summer  evenings. 

Piazza  Dante,  near  the  Porta  Alba,  formerly  the  Largo 
del  Mercatello.  Marble  monument  to  Dante,  erected  in 
1872.  Liceo  Ginnasiale  Vittorio  Emaiuiele,  built  by  the  City 
of  Naples  in  1757  in  honour  of  Charles  III.,  surmounted  by 
a  balustrade  with  twenty-six  statues. 

Piazza  dei  Martiri,  near  the  fine  street  Via  Calabritto, 
contains  the  Colonna  dei  Martiri,  a  marble  column  crowned 
with  a  bronze  Victory,  erected  in  1864  to  the  memory  of 
the  patriots  who  fell  during  the  several  Neapolitan  revolu- 
tions.    Several  palaces  at  the  sides  of  the  triangular  Piazza. 


6o  NAI'LES. 

Piazza  Principe  di  Napoli,  situated  at  the  west  end 
of  the  Villa  Nazionale,  near  an  open  space  (La  Torretta) 
of  tramway  stations  and  s'eam  tramways,  to  Fiujrigrotta, 
Bagnoli,  and  Pozzuoli. 

Riviera  di  Chiaia,  fashionable  quarter,  separated  from 
the  Villa  Nazionale  gardens  by  a  riding  path 

The  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  surrounds  the  town  oii 
the  heights.  Beautiful  views.  Streets  or  steps  descend  to 
the  lower  roads,  notably  to  the  Via  Roma  and  the  Riviera 
di  Chiaia.  Tramways  from  the  Piazza  Salvator  Rosa  to 
Piedigrotta,  2^  miles. 

Tile  Marinella,  a  long  beach,  from  the  port  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Sebeto,  once  the  headquarters  of  the  Lazzaroni,  a 
race  now  almost  extinct. 

The  Molo  Angioino,  a  favourite  promenade  of  seafaring 
people.  Built  1302,  by  Charles  II.  Here  Padre  Rocco,  the 
Dominican,  delivered  his  remarkable  addresses,  and  excited 
crowds  to  enthusiasm.  The  Liglithouse  should  be  ascended 
(a  marble  staircase  leads  to  the  gallery)  for  the  view  it  com- 
mands over  the  town  (i  1.). 

The  new  Via  Partenope,  and  Via  Caracciolo,  the 
fashionable  drive  and  promenade,  facing  the  sea.  The 
Galleria  Vittoria  {see  p.  59)  abuts  on  the  Via  Partenope. 

The  Via  Roma  (Toledo),  described  on  a  previous  page 
{see  p.  9). 

Villa  Nazionale  (formerly  Villa  Reale),  a  favourite  prome- 
nade, between  the  sea  and  the  Riviera  di  Chiaia.  Shrub- 
beries, winding  paths,  grottoes,  fountains,  statues.  Some 
cafes  near  the  point  where  the  military  bands  play,  in  winter 
2  to  4,  in  summer  9  to  10  or  11.  The  Aquarium  (p.  62)  is 
situated  in  the  middle  of  the  gardens. 

Theatres. 

Teatro  San  Carlo,  founded  by  Charles  III.,  1738, 
was  built  by'  Angela  Carasale.  It  is  one  of  the  finest 
theatres  in  the  world.  The  theatre  was  damaged  by  fire 
in  18 1 6,  but  was  soon  restored.  This  house  has  been 
the  scene  of  the  first  productions  of  many  of  the  finest 
operatic  compositions  of  last  century.  Indeed,  Naples  may 
boast  of  being  the  mother  of  modern  opera.  She  has 
numbered  among  her  later  names  those  of  Donizetti, 
Bellini,  Rossini,  and  Mercadante. 


THE   OBSERVATORY.  6 1 

Teatro  Bellini,  in  the  Via  Bellini,  close  to  the  National 
Museum  ;    modern  and  elegant.     Opera  and  drama. 

Teatro  Mercadante  (or  del  Fondo),  1778,  in  the 
Piazza  del  Municipio,  under  the  same  management  as  San 
Carlo.     Opera,  ballets,  and  French  dramas. 

Teatro  Fenice,  Piazza  del  Municipio.  Opera  bouffe  and 
melodrama.      Varieties. 

Teatro  Fiorentini,  Strada  Fiorentini  Drama.  Very 
popular.     Oldest  theatre  in  Naples. 

Teatro  Nuovo,  1724.  In  a  side  street  of  the  Via  Roma, 
in  the  Vico  del  Teatro  Nuovo.     Comic  opera. 

Teatro  Politeama,  Strada  Monte  di  Die.  Circus, 
drama,  operetta,  varieties,  cinematograph. 

Teatro  Rossini,  Strada  fuori  Porta  Medina.  Comedy 
and  operetta. 

Teatro  Sannazaro,  Strada  di  Chiaia.  Drama  and 
comedy. 

In  the  Strada  Foria  and  Piazza  Cavour  are  several 
theatres  for  Pulcinella,  the  Neapolitan  Punch  and  Judy, 
a  never-ending  attraction.  Marionette  theatres  on  the 
Marinella  and  in  the  Strada  Foria  are  always  popular  with 
the  Neapolitans.     Teatro  Cavour,  in  the  Strada  Foria. 

The  principal  Cafes  Chantants,  or  music  halls,  are  near 
the  Salone  Margherita,  Galleria  Umberto  Primo  ;  Grand 
Eden,  Strada  Guglielmo  Sanfelice. 

The  Botanic  Garden. 

'lliis  Garden,  situated  in  the  line  Strada  Foria,  was  com- 
menced in  1809,  completed  in  1818  ;  laid  out  by  the  late 
Professor  Tenore.  There  are  a  botanical  library  and  lecture 
room,  with  instruments  for  microscopic  observations,  and  auto- 
graphs of  celebrated  botanists.  The  out-door  collection  of 
trees  is  extensive  and  interesting  and  the  four  herb  gardens  are 
worthy  of  notice.     Admission  by  special  permit  only. 

The  Observatory, 

on  the  Capodimonte,  500  feet  above  sea-level,  the  horizon  line 
only  broken  by  the  Castle  of  Sant'  Elmo.  A  graceful  edifice, 
with  vestibule  of  marble  columns.  Here  the  celebrated  Piazzi 
discovered  Ceres  in  182 1  ;  Comm.  de  Gasparis,  discovered 
several  planetoids. 


62  NAPLES. 

The  Zoological  Station 

is  the  striking  white  building  in  the  centre  of  tiie  Villa 
Nazionale.  It  is  intended  especially  for  the  studv  of  the 
marine  animals  abounding  in  the  Bay  of  Naples.  It  was 
established  in  1874  by  Dr.  Dohrn,  greatly  at  his  own  expense, 
aided  by  a  contribution  from  the  German  Government.  Great 
Britain,  the  United  States,  Germany,  Austria,  Italy,  Holland, 
Belgium,  Russia,  Switzerland,  all  pay  subsidies  for  the  privilege 
of  sending  students  to  make  use  of  the  institution.  The  lower 
part  is  an  Aquarium,  second  to  none  for  the  multitude  and 
variety  of  animals  in  its  tanks,  exemplifying  the  abundant  fauna 
of  the  Mediterranean.  In  the  upper  storeys  are  the  laboratories, 
library  and  apartments  of  the  resident  naturalists.  The  labora- 
tories contain  a  number  of  tables,  subscribed  for  by  different 
governments  for  students  of  their  nationalities.  In  the  Library 
are  some  modern  frescoes  and  busts.  Admission  daily  8  to  5 
or  6,  October-May,  5  1.  ;  on  Sunday  afternoon,  i  1.  50  c. 
(see  p.  60). 

Fetes  and  Festivals. 

The  NeapoUtan,  like  the  ancient  Greek,  festivals  display  a 
marvellous  intermixture  of  religion  and  pleasure,  and  are 
thoroughly  characteristic  of  the  national  life  and  manners. 

Festa  di  Piedigrotta.  Once  the  chief  festival  of  Naples, 
on  the  7th  and  8th  of  September.  The  royal  family  used  to 
go  in  procession  to  the  Church  of  the  Vergine  di  Piedigrotta, 
at  Piedigrotta.  All  the  available  troops  were  drawn  out  to  aid 
the  display,  and  for  the  remainder  of  the  day  the  most  boisterous 
and  unrestrained  merriment  prevailed  among  the  thousands  of 
peasantry  in  gay  local  costumes,  gathered  from  all  parts  of  the 
adjacent  provinces.  The  day,  although  shorn  of  its  former 
glories,  is  still  observed  in  a  limited  degree  in  and  around  the 
grotto  of  Posilipo  with  music,  singing,  and  the  celebrated 
tarantella  dance  {see  pp.  13  and  36). 

The  festival  of  the  Madonna  di  Monte  Vergine  takes 
place  on  Whit  Sunday  and  the  two  following  days.  In  vehicles 
of  every  kind  the  Neapolitans  flock  to  the  scene  of  they?/^  at 
the  convent  church  of  Monte  Vergine,  near  Avellino.  Here 
also  gather  motley  crowds  from  all  parts  of  the  kingdom, 
affording  a  wonderful  study  of  local  costumes,  characters  and 
dialects.  The  return  to  Naples  is  a  Greek  Bacchanalian  pro- 
cession with  modern  accessories.  The  vehicles  are  decorated 
with  boughs  of  trees,  and  drawn  by  animals  of  all  kinds  (horse, 


CHARITABLE    INSTITUTIONS.  63 

bullock  and  ass  yoked  together),  adorned  with  ribbons  and 
coloured  feathers;  and  crowds  of  excited  men  and  women 
their  heads  wreathed  with  flowers  and  fruit,  and  in  their  hands 
decorated  wands  and  pictures  of  the  Virgin,  dance  round  the 
motley  procession. 

Most  of  the  Neapolitan  pilgrims  return  by  way  of  Nola,  and 
spend  Whit-Tnesday  at  the  Shrine  of  Madonna  dell'  Arco, 
at  the  foot  of  Monte  Somma.  Hither  also  come  crowds  from 
Naples  who  cannot  undertake  the  longer  journey  to  Avellino  ; 
and  the  day  is  given  up  to  dancing,  singing,  etc.,  round  the 
shrine  and  along  the  seven  miles  of  the  road  to  Naples. 

Throughout  Italy  on  the  first  Sunday  in  June  the  Festival 
of  the  Constitution  takes  place.  Parades  of  the  military 
and  the  national  guards,  etc.,  mass  in  front  of  S.  Francesco  di 
Paola,  accompanied  by  salutes  from  the  ships  of  war  and 
harbour  batteries ;  concerts  at  various  places,  where  the 
Garibaldi  Hymn  forms  a  conspicuous  feature,  and  elicits 
enthusiastic  applause  ;  fireworks  at  the  Villa  Nazionale  (see 
p.  60)  etc.,  form  the  regular  programme.  The  anniversary  of  the 
King's  Birthday  is  also  celebrated  on  nth  November  by  a 
military  parade  at  Villa  Nazionale. 

Christmas  brings  to  Naples  the  bagpipers  of  the  Abruzzi 
{Za?fipoi;/iari),  who  play  before  the  images  of  the  Virgin. 
The  churches  exhibit  tableaux  of  the  Nativity  {presepi),  some 
of  them  moving  by  machinery.  At  Easter  there  are  represen- 
tations of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  On  Easter  Sunday,  the 
populace  make  holiday  at  Antignano  in  the  morning,  and  at 
Poggio  Reale  in  the  evening.  On  Ascension  Day  fifes  are 
kept  up  at  Scafati  and  Carditello.  On  the  day  of  Corpus 
Christi  there  are  special  services  at  Santa  Chiara  {see  p.  19), 
and  parade  of  troops.  The  Festa  di  San  Antonio  Abate 
(January  17th)  is  celebrated  by  the  blessing  of  domestic 
animals  (gaily  decorated)  at  the  church  of  the  saint.  The 
Festivals  of  San  Qennaro,  in  May,  September,  and 
December,  are  referred  to  in  our  notice  of  the  Cathedral 
{see  p.  19). 

The  Tombola,  or  lottery,  attracts  large  crowds  to  witness 
the  drawing  every  Saturday  afternoon  (4  ]).m.). 

Charitable  Institutions. 

There  are  abcnil  sixty  hospitals  and  other  charitai)le 
institutions  in  Naples,  with  good  endowments.  The  following 
are  the  principal : — 


64  NAPLES. 

The  Santa  Casa  degl'  Incurabili,  founded  152 1,  by 
Francesca  Maria  Longo,  sometimes  contains  as  many  as  2,000 
patients  of  both  sexes,  arranged  in  various  wards  according  to 
their  diseases. 

Ospedale  de  Jesu  Maria,  the  Chief  Clinical  School  of 
Naples.  Medical  men  should  make  a  point  of  visiting  this 
admirable  institution. 

Ospedale  dei  Pelligrini,  in  the  Strada  Porta  Medina,  with 
a  convalescent  branch  at  Torre  del  Greco.  Distinguished  for 
its  good  management  and  order. 

Ospedale  della  Pace,  in  the  Sirada  de'  Tribunali,  specially 
for  acute  medical  cases.  Well  directed  by  the  brothers  of 
San  Giovanni  di  Dio. 

Ospedale  di  S.  Eligio,  for  females,  with  a  Conservatorio 
of  nursing  sisters. 

Ospedale  della  Pazienza  Caesarea,  for  infirm  females. 
Founded  1600,  by  Annibale  Cesareo. 

Ospedale  de'  Ciechi,  in  the  Chiaia.  Founded  by 
Ferdinand  I.,  181S.     Two  hundred  blind  persons  taught. 

The  Albergo  de'  Poveri,  or  Reclusorio,  a  celebrated 
Neapolitan  institution  in  the  Strada  Foria,  commenced  from 
designs  of  Fu^j;^a  in  175 1.  It  was  founded  like  all  other  good 
institutions  in  Naples,  Sicily,  and  Spain,  by  Charles  III.  He 
intended  it  to  contain  15,000  poor  persons  !  About  a  third  of 
his  plan  has  been  completed.  This  institution  is  said  to  have 
given  rise  to  the  infant-schools  in  England  {see  also  p.  35). 

Ospedale  Internazionale,  Via  Tasso,  is,  as  its  name 
implies,  a  hospital  for  the  reception  of  patients  of  all  nation- 
alities. It  is  a  well-conducted  institution,  in  a  healthy  situation, 
under  the  care  of  Dr.  Scotti.  Travellers  attacked  with  illness 
may  with  confidence  enter  this  hospital. 

The  new  Casa  Paterna  of  the  Duchess  Ravaschieri,  for 
orphans. 

Ospedale  Lina,  for  children. 

Society  for  the  Protection  of  Animals,  opposite  Cook's 
Office. 

Cemeteries. 

Campo  Santo  Vecchio. — Old  cemetery.  There  are  360 
deep  pits. 

Campo  Santo  Nuovo,  near  Pogglo  Reale. — Begun  by  the 
French  ;  remodelled  in  1837.  It  is  a  handsome  garden,  with 
many   fine   monuments   tastefully  placed.     There  is  a  Church, 


SUMMARY   OF    EXCURSIONS    FROM    NAPLES.  65 

Doric,  with  a  Pieta  in  the  Tribune  by  Genmiro  Cali.  More 
than  a  hundred  proprietary  chapels  open  into  a  square, 
surrounded  by  a  l3oric  portico.  In  the  centre  is  a  colossal 
statue,  emblematic  of  Religion,  by  Angeliiii.  C.  Poerio,  the 
jurist  Nicolini,  and  other  noted  Neapolitans,  are  buried  in  the 
south-west  portion  reserved  for  that  class.  The  views  from  the 
cemetery  are  magnificent,  tracks  of  the  lava  currents  of  1850 
and  1855  being  conspicuous  in  the  landscape.  At  the  adjacent 
Capuchin  Convent,  the  bas-reliefs  on  the  altar  of  the  oratory 
are  by  Giovanni  da  A^ola. 

Cimitero  della  Pieta,  or  burial-ground  of  the  poor,  is 
situated  at  a  short  distance  from  the  Campo  Santo  Nuovo.  It 
was  opened  in  r888,  and  is  laid  out  in  an  amphitheatre  of 
terraces,  with  a  marble  Pieta  in  the  centre,  and  a  ciiapel  on  the 
hill. 

Protestant  Cemetery. — Near  the  Porta  Capuana,  now- 
closed.       Well    kept  (fee  50  c). 

The  new  Protestant  Cemetery  is  outside  the  city. 

SUMMARY    OF    EXCURSIONS     FROM    NAPLES. 

Posilipo.  —  Vomero  and  S.  Martino.  Beautiful  carriage 
drive  of  about  2  hours.  Walk  3^-4  hours.  Tram  routes  i 
and  2  {see  p.  3). 

Camaldoli. — Monastery,  splendid  view.  By  carriage  in 
4^  hours,  including  stay.  On  foot,  5-6  hours.  Donation 
expected  by  monks.      Ladies  not  admitted. 

Pozzuoli,  Baia,  Misenum,  Cumae. — By  carriage,  electric 
tramway,  or  Cumana  railway  as  far  as  Pozzuoli,  thence  railway 
to  Baife  (Baia)  and  the  Lago  del  Fusaro,  thence  walk  (f  hour) 
to  Cumai.     One  day  should  be  devoted  to  this  excursion. 

Caserta. — Royal  Palace  and  Park,  with  fine  waterworks. 
By  rail  from  Central  Station  in  i  hour  (21  miles). 

Herculaneum. — By  tramway  in  1^  hours. 

Pompeii,  —  iMther  by  the  Circumvesuviana  Railway  (16 
miles  in  i]  hours),  from  the  (Central  Station  (15  miles  in  i 
hour),  or  by  motor  in  \\\,  hours. 

Castellammare, — By  train  (i7;l  miles)  from  Central  Station 
in  1  hour.      The  first  railway  line  in  Italy,  oi)ened  in  1840. 

Sorrento. — -Either  I)y  train  to  Castellammare  {see  above), 
and  from  there  by  carriage  or  electric  tram  in  i^  hours,  or  by 
steamtr  from  Naples  (morning  and  afternoon  services). 


66  NAI'LKS. 

Capri. — Either  via  Sorrento  (see  p.  223),  or  direct  by  steamer 
(touching  Sorrento),  daily  at  9  am.,  weather  permitting,  in 
2^  hours.     Also  afternoon  service  via  Sorrento. 

Procida  =  Ischia  =  Casamicciola. — By  steamer  to  Procida 
in  r  ^-  hours  ;  to  Ischia,  2  hours  ;  to  Casamicciola  in  2|  hours, 
or  by  train  to  Torregaveta,  and  then  steamer.  For  times  see 
time-table,  or  apply  to  Cook's  Office. 

Cava  dei  Tirreni. — By  rail  (28  miles)  in  I5  hours  from 
Central  Station. 

Corpo  di  Cava. — In  |  hour  by  carriage  from  La  Cava. 

Amalfi  and  Ravello. — By  train  to  La  Cava,  and  from 
thence  in  2-3  hours  by  carriage. 

Paestum. — Temples  :  direct  by  rail  (change  at  Battipaglia) 
in  about  3^-4!  hours  from  Central   Station. 

Vesuvius. — Daily  from  Cook's  Office,  by  electric  Circum- 
vesuviana  Railway  to  Pugliano,  thence  by  Cook's  new  Electric 
Railway  from  Pugliano. 

Passengers  wishing  to  visit  Pompeii  and  Vesuvius  in  one  day 
can  do  so  by  advising  Cook's  Tourist  Office  the  day  before. 
Passengers  would  have  to  leave  Naples,  Circumvesuviana 
Station,  at  9.0  a.m. 

A  pamphlet,  containing  particulars  of  the  above  excursions, 
can  be  obtained  free,  at  the  Offices  of  Messrs.  Thos.  Cook 
and  Son,  Galleria  Vittoria,  Via  Chiatamone,  where  complete 
sets  of  tickets  are  issued  for  any  of  these  tours. 

THE    ENVIRONS    OF    NAPLES. 

One  of  the  favourite  short  trips  from  Naples  is  to  the 
Monastery  of  Camaldoli.  Carriage  along  the  Strada  dell' 
Infrascata,  and  Strada  S.  Gennaro  to  Antignano,  on  to 
Cangiani  and  Nazaret.  Here  leave  the  vehicle  and  walk  to 
the  entrance  of  the  monastery,  in  which  there  is  little  of 
interest,  but  the  view  from  the  Belvedere  in  the  garden  is 
magnificent.  Height,  1,488  feet  above  sea-level.  The  monastery 
was  suppressed  in  1863,  but  twenty- two  years  later  was  pur- 
chased and  is  now  inhabited  by  eleven  monks.  Ladies  are  not 
admitted  to  the  monastery,  but  an  equally  fine  view  may  be 
obtained  close  by  at  a  spot  marked  Vediita  Pagliarella.  (Fee 
20  c.}  Pedestrians  can  take  the  tramway  to  Antignano,  and 
I  hence  walk  by  long,  devious  paths  to  Nazaret,  and  gradually 
descend  to  the  monastery. 


THE    ENVIRONS    OF    NAPLES.  67 

Western  District. 

West  of  the  Gulf  of  Naples  lies  a  district  which  fascinates  by 
its  natural  beauty,  and  attracts  notice  by  the  abundant  evidence 
of  powerful  volcanic  agencies,  whereby  wondrous  changes  have 
been  wrought  in  the  natural  features  of  the  scenery.  It  is  also 
a  district  whose  forests  and  lakes  and  rivers  and  mountains  are 
so  intimately  associated  with  ancient  religion  and  poetry,  as  of 
necessity  to  excite  absorbing  interest  so  long  as  Homer  and 
Virgil  continue  to  be  read.  And,  moreover,  this  portion  of 
Italy  was  so  frequented  by  the  wealthier  sons  of  Imperial  Rome, 
who  built  their  rural  villas  amongst  its  fair  scenery,  that  were  we 
to  recount  all  names  of  historic  interest  connected  with  it,  we 
should  indeed  have  to  marshal  before  our  readers  a  goodly 
array  of  poets  and  philosophers,  warriors  and  heroes,  senators 
and  consuls,  and  emperors.  For  visiting  Bagnoli,  Po2zuoli, 
Baiae  (Baia),  Misenum,  and  Cumae,  the  traveller  can  avail 
himself  of  the  electric  tramway,  the  Cumana  railway,  or  of  a 
carriage,  as  may  best  suit  the  length  and  nature  of  his  tour. 
Carriages  leave  Cook's  Office  daily,  at  9.30  a.m.,  for  this 
interesting  excursion. 

After  leaving  the  Chiaia  by  the  Strada  di  Piedigrotta,  and 
passing  the  Church  of  the  Madonna  di  Monte  Vergine  (see 
p.  62),  the  Tomb  of  Virgil  is  reached.  It  is  situated  on  a  rocky 
hillside.  Fee,  i  1.  The  tomb  is  a  small,  square  building, 
with  a  domed  roof,  differing  little  from  the  ancient  edifices 
of  the  same  kind  that  abound  in  the  neighbourhood.  The 
old  entrance  has  been  enlarged,  and  there  is  a  modern  window 
cut  through  the  hall,  which  admits  of  a  curious  view  of  the 
chasm  that  forms  the  approach  to  the  tunnel,  or,  as  it  is 
called  in  the  country,  the  Grotto  of  Posilipo.  Internally,  this 
tomb  is  a  vaulted  cell,  about  15  feet  square,  having  many 
columbaria,  or  small  recesses  in  the  side-walls  made  to  receive 
urns.  No  urns,  however,  nor  vestiges  of  them,  no  sarco- 
phagus, nor  any  inscription  (really  ancient),  remain  here ;  nor 
is  the  story  told  of  the  removal  in  the  i6th  century  of 
the  very  urn  that  contained  the  great  poet's  ashes  authenti- 
cated. According  to  one  account,  the  urn,  standing  in  the 
middle  of  the  sepulchre,  supported  by  nine  small  marble 
pillars,  with  an  inscription  on  the  frieze,  was  here  as  late 
as  1526,  and  frequently  visited  by  the  lovers  of  letters;  but 
It  is  said  that,  in  the  course  of  the  wars  and  invasions  of  the 
kingdom  that  ensued,  the  Neapolitan  Government,  fearing  such 


68  NAPLES. 

precious  relics  should  be  carried  off  or  destroyed,  caused  ihem 
to  be  removed  from  the  tomb  to  the  fortress  called  Castel 
Nuovo,  where  they  were  lost.  Another  statement  is  that,  at 
the  earnest  suit  of  the  Cardinal  of  Mantua,  who  was  anxious  to 
enrich  his  native  city  with  the  poet's  remains,  the  Government 
gave  the  urn,  the  pillars,  and  some  small  statues  that  had  stood 
in  the  tomb,  to  the  Mantuans ;  and  that  the  Cardinal,  on  his 
way  home  with  them,  fell  sick,  and  died  at  Genoa,  in  which 
town  the  treasures  were  scattered  and  lost.  Another  account 
is,  that  the  monks  of  the  neighbouring  Convent  of  Mercellina 
removed  the  urn  and  its  accessories  from  the  toml,  and  that 
they,  and  not  the  Government,  made  a  present  of  them  to  the 
Cardinal  of  Mantua,  on  whose  sudden  death  at  Genoa  they 
were  lost.  The  e[)itaph  reported  to  be  inscribed  on  the  urn  is 
the  well-known  distich — 

"  Mantua  megenuit,  Calabri  rapuere,  tenet  nunc 
Farthenope  :  cecini  pascua,  rura,  duces." 

But  not  a  vestige  of  this  remains.  On  a  marble  slab  placed  on 
the  side  of  the  rock  opposite  the  entrance  of  the  tomb  is  an 
inscription  rudely  cut  in  coarse  marble ;  but  the  words  are  very 
different,  and  much  more  barbarous,  being — 

"  (^ui  cineies  ?     Tumuli  htec  vestigia  conditur  cilim 
Ille  hie  qui  cecinit  pascua,  rura,  duces. 

Can.  Reg.  M.D.LIII." 

After  leaving  the  Tomb,  we  come  to  the  long,  gas-lit 
tunnel  (750  yards),  called  the  Grotta  Nuova  di  Posilipo, 
bored  in  1882-85  ;  the  old  one,  being  in  a  dangerous 
condition,  is  now  closed.  In  the  middle  of  the  present 
tunnel  is  a  lift  (15  c.)  to  the  new  quarter  of  Parco  Savoia. 
Beyond  the  tunnel,  the  village  of  Fuorigrotta  is  reached. 
Church  of  San  Vitale,  with  monument  to  Giacomo  Leopardi, 
poet,  etc.  Road  to  Bagnoli  through  the  vines  and  mul- 
berry-trees.    Electric  trams  and  railway,  2\  miles. 

Bagnoli  is  a  small  watermg-place  much  frequented  by 
Neapolitans  in  July,  August,  and  September,  during  which 
months  the  sea-bathing  is  very  enjoyable.  There  are  several 
hot  springs  of  sulphur  and  iron,  others  of  salt  and  carbonic 
acid  gas.     Numerous  baths  and  lodging-houses. 

A  mail-boat  runs  three  times  a  day  to  the 

Island  of  Nisida,  an  extinct  crater,  with  a  circular 
harbour,    situated    opposite    Capo     Coroglio,     scene    of    the 


THE    ENVIRONS   OF    NAPLES.  69 

retirement  of  Brutus,  after  death  of  Csesar.  The  fort, 
once  a  Villa  of  (^ueen  Johanna  II.,  is  now  a  prison  for 
criminals. 

The  return  from  Bagnoli  may  be  effected  by  another 
route,  by  keeping  nearer  to  the  sea-coast.  Notice  the  ruins 
of  Villa  Pausilypon  of  Vedius  PoUio  (whence  the  name  of  the 
promontory,  the  Posilipo),  and  various  other  ruins ;  the  lofty 
Qrotto  di  Sejano  (i  1.).  By  the  Strado  Nuova  di  Posilipo 
and  Mergellina  hack  to  Naples. 

The  Lago  d'Agnano  (now  drained),  an  old  crater,  4  miles 
in  circumference,  the 

Qrotto  del  Cane  (admission  2  1.,  including  experiments 
with  torches,  the  Grotta  del  Morto  and  remains  of  a  Roman 
building  close  by),  noted  for  the  poisonous  gases  at  the  lower 
part  of  the  cave,  and 

Astroni,  i  mile  from  the  Lago  d'Agnano,  with  its  large, 
walled-in  volcanic  crater,  formerly  a  royal  preserve  for 
wild  boars,  deer,  etc. ,  may  all  be  taken  in  an  easy  drive  from 
Naples. 

From  the  Lago  d'Agnano  a  pleasant  walk  over  hills 
past  the  Villa  Sarno  (visitors  admitted)  and  the  Capuchin 
Monastery  of  vSan  Gennaro  {see  p.  74)  leads  in  about  an  hour 
and  a  quarter  to 

POZZUOLI. 

The  road  from  Naples  to  Pozzuoli  has  been  described  as* 
far  as  Bagnoli  (pp.  67-68).  It  then  follows  the  coast-line  ; 
and  the  tourist  will  note  the  ancient  cliff  of  volcanic  rock, 
now  separated  from  the  sea  by  a  low  strip  of  land,  whose 
recent  volcanic  formation  is  evinced  by  the  quantity  of 
marine  deposits  which  it  contains,  and  by  the  numerous 
Tragments  of  mosaics  which  are  buried  in  the  soil.  The 
wave  mark  on  the  inner  cliff  is  thirty-two  feet  above  the 
sea-level.  The  road  near  Pozzuoli  is  cut  through  Monte 
Olibano,  which  is  composed  of  lava,  deposited  by  a  stream 
from  Solfatara.  This  stream  must  have  been  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  broad,  and  seventy  feet  thick,  when  it  reached  the 
sea.  Pozzuoli  was  originally  a  Greek  colony,  called  at 
first  Puteoli  ;  then,  in  allusion  to  its  government,  Dicrear- 
chia.  About  200  ii.c,  the  Romans  restored  its  ancient 
name,  and  made  it  the  headquarters  of  their  traffic  with 
the  East.     Cicero  calls  it  "a  little  Rome."     It  was  made  a 

F  2 


JO  NAPLES. 

Rtmian  colony  by  Augustus,  and  was  called  by  Nero, 
PtiteoU  Augusta,  to  which  title  the  Vespasian  added  the 
word  Flaria.  Here  Sylla  revelled,  and  miserably  died. 
From  the  statements  of  Strabo,  corroborated  by  numerous 
inscriptions  on  the  monuments,  etc.,  an  extensive  com- 
merce with  Asia  Minor,  Syria,  and  Egypt  was  maintained. 
The  town  possessed  mineral  springs,  which  made  it  a 
favourite  resort  of  Roman  patricians.  With  the  loss 
of  its  commerce,  as  the  Roman  Empire  collapsed,  this 
city,  once  extending  almost  to  the  Solfatara,  itself  declined. 
From  the  5th  to  the  i6th  century,  Puteoli  was  involved  in 
a  long  period  of  disaster.  Alaric,  Genseric,  Totila,  the 
Dukes  of  Benevento,  the  Saracens,  the  Turks,  all  in  turn 
ravaged  and  destroyed.  Nature  herself  seemed  to  war 
against  the  doomed  city.  Solfatara  poured  forth  lava  and 
showered  ashes ;  earthquakes  shook  down  the  buildings ; 
part  of  the  city  even  subsided  below  the  sea-level.  In  the 
1 6th  century,  the  terrible  eruption  which  formed  Monte 
Nuovo  laid  waste  the  whole  district  ;  malaria  became  a 
constant  summer  visitor ;  most  of  the  inhabitants  fled  from 
the  town,  and,  in  spite  of  spasmodic  efforts  of  the  Viceroy, 
Don  Pedro  de  Toledo,  and  his  friend,  Andrea  Doria,  and  others 
since  their  time,  Puteoli,  now  Puzzuoli,  has  never  recovered. 
Few  indications,  indeed,  remain  of  its  ancient  prosperity. 

There  is  one  circumstance  in  the  history  of  Puteoli  which 
must  ever  render  it  memorable  to  the  Christian  traveller.  It 
■was  here  that  St.  Paul,  St.  Luke  and  Aristarchus,  were  sent  to 
Rome  by  King  Agrippa,  completed  their  perilous  sea  voyage, 
and  remained  a  week  with  St.  Paul's  countrymen  in  the  Tyrian 
quarter  before  passing  on  to  Rome  (Acts  xxviii,  13-14). 

The  Cathedral  (San  Proculo)  has  in  one  of  its  walls  six 
Corinthian  columns,  formerly  part  of  a  Roman  temple  erected 
here  by  L.  Capurnius,  and  dedicated  to  Augustus.  Relics  of 
St.  Proculus  are  shown  here.  Monuments  to  Due  de  Montpen- 
sier  and  Giovanni  Battista  Pergolese,  composer  of  the  original 
"  Stabat  Mater." 

In  the  Piazza  Vittorio  Emanuele  is  a  statue,  discovered 
in  1704,  of  a  senator,  Q.  Klav.  Mavortius.  The  head  is  a  more 
recent  addition,  though  antique,  the  original  head  of  the  statue 
not  having  been  found.  Another  statue  in  the  Piazza  is  of 
Philip  III.'s  Viceroy,  Bishop  Leon  y  Cardenas. 

The  Temple  of  Jupiter  Serapis,  or  the  Serapeum,  is 
reached  bv  a  narrow  road  at  the  west  end  of  the  town.     These 


THE    ENVIRONS   OF    NAPLES.  7 1 

extensive  ruins  were  lost  sight  of  early  in  the  i6th  century,  and 
remained  entombed  until  they  were  disinterred  by  Charles  II. 
in  1750.  The  edifice  consisted  of  a  circular  temple,  once 
surrounded  by  a  peristyle  of  sixteen  Corinthian  pillars  of 
African  marble.  The  pillars  have  been  removed  to  the 
Theatre  of  the  Palace  at  Caserta,  and  only  the  bases  remain. 
Between  these  pedestals  are  small  fluted  vases  once  used  in 
the  sacrificial  rites.  The  temple  is  surrounded  by  a  quadri- 
lateral court,  140  fe.t  by  122,  to  which  a  vestibule,  supported 
by  six  pilasters  on  the  side  nearest  the  sea,  forms  the  main 
entrance.  Forty-eight  columns,  partly  of  marble  and  partly  of 
granite,  once  formed  a  portico  round  the  interior  of  the  court. 
Under  this  portico  were  chambers,  sixteen  of  which  could 
be  entered  only  from  the  court,  and  sixteen  only  from  the 
exterior.  There  are  remains  of  stairs,  showing  that  there 
was  an  upper  storey.  The  two  corner  chambers  on  the  north- 
east side  are  of  double  dimensions,  with  marble  seats  and 
water  channels.  Between  these  two  chambers  the  wall  of  the 
court  forms  a  semicircular  niche.  In  front  was  once  a  pronaos 
of  six  Corinthian  columns  and  two  pilasters  supporting  a  richly 
decorated  frieze,  the  loftiest  portion  of  the  edifice.  Three  of 
the  columns  still  stand,  each  cut  from  a  single  block  40  feet  in 
height ;  three  others  lie  in  fragments  around.  Six  feet  below 
the  marble  pavement  of  the  court,  a  more  ancient  mosaic 
pavement  has  been  discovered.  The  arrangements  of  the  whole 
building,  in  all  essential  particulars,  are  similar  to  those  of  the 
Iseon  at  Pompeii  and  the  Serapeum  at  Alexandria.  There  is 
authentic  evidence  that  the  Egyptian  divinity  Serapis  was 
worshipped  here  as  late  as  the  2nd  century. 

The  ruins  of  the  Serapeum  are  also  intensely  interesting  from 
the  evidences  they  afford  of  frequent  alterations  of  level.  From 
the  operations  of  lithodomites  on  the  colunms,  and  the  position 
of  the  mosaic  and  more  recent  marble  floor,  and  other  circum- 
stances. Professor  Forbes,  Mr.  Babbage  and  Sir  Charles  Lyell 
have  demonstrated  a  series  of  remarkable  changes.  Historical 
evidence  bears  out  the  philosophical  argument.  There  can  be 
no  doubt  that  the  original  mosaic  floor,  with  its  water-courses 
leading  to  the  sea,  was  above  the  sea  level,  and  that  a  gradual 
subsidence  necessitated  the  formation  of  the  marble  floor  six 
feet  higher.  The  building  was  probably  abandoned  at  the 
conversion  of  Constantine,  and  a  gradual  subsidence  continued, 
as  shown  by  sea  marks  at  various  levels.  Then  came  the  fall 
of  scoriae,  etc.,  from   the  eruption  of  Solfatara,  in  the    12th 


72  NAl'LES. 

century,  filling  up  the  courtyard  to  the  height  of  12  feet,  and 
preserving  a  portion  of  the  columns  from  marine  action. 
Subsidence,  however,  continued  until  the  sea  reached  a  height 
of  nine  feet  above  this  volcanic  deposit.  For  three  and  a  half 
centuries  no  further  change  took  place,  and  at  this  level  the 
lithodomic  perforations  are  most  numerous,  largest  and  deepest, 
and  contain  shells.  The  tremendous  earthquakes  preceding 
and  accompanying  the  formation  of  Monte  Nuovo  in  1538 
(p.  75)  raised  the  ruins  above  the  sea-level  simultaneously 
with  the  upheaval  of  the  tract  of  land  west  of  Pozzuoli.  Since 
1780  subsidence  has  again  set  in,  and  there  is  now  at  high  tide 
two  feet  of  water  in  the  courtyard. 

A  little  to  the  west  of  the  Serapeum  (p.  70)  is  the 
Stabilimento  Armstrong  (founded  by  the  well-known  cannon 
and  armour  plate  firm  of  Armstrong  &  Co.,  Newcastle),  where 
about  2,000  workmen  are  employed. 

Three  mineral  springs,  supposed  to  come  from  Solfatara, 
appear  near  the  Sera])eum.  Acqua  dell'  Antro  is  hot,  used 
internally  for  dyspepsia,  gout,  etc.  ;  externally  for  rheumatism, 
scrofula,  and  skin  affections.  The  Acqua  de  Lipposi  and 
Acqua  Media  are  cold  :  the  former  is  used  in  eye  affections  ; 
the  latter  is  something  like  seltzer.  The  springs  can  be  visited 
gratis. 

At  the  quay  may  be  seen  the  remains  of  the 

Mole  of  Pozzuoli,  now  called  the  Ponte  di  Caligola,  from 
an  erroneous  idea  of  its  having  been  connected  with  the  bridge 
of  boats  inaugurated  with  such  drunkenness,  cruelty,  and  pomp 
by  the  insane  tyrant,  as  described  by  Suetonius.  An  inscrip- 
tion over  the  city  gate  records  the  restoration  of  the  mole  by 
Antoninus  Pius,  in  fulfilment  of  a  promise  made  by  Hadrian. 
Twenty-four  arches,  with  a  lighthouse  at  the  extreme  end,  once 
formed  this  pier.  Only  sixteen  buttresses  now  remain,  three 
of  these  being  submerged.  They  are  constructed  of  brick, 
cemented  with  Pozzolana  or  volcanic  earth,  and  are  faced  with 
stone.  These  buttresses,  like  the  pillars  of  the  Serapeum, 
furnish  evidence  of  alternate  subsidence  and  elevation. 

Of  the  Temple  of  Neptune,  once  a  goodly  edifice,  west  of 
the  Serapeum,  where  Cfcsar  Augustus  sacrificed,  31  B.C.,  before 
he  sailed  to  Greece  and  vanquished  Antony  and  Cleopatra  at 
Actium,  nothing  remains  but  a  few  pillars  rising  from  the  sea. 
In  the  vicinity,  but  under  water,  is  the  Temple  of  the 
Nymphs,  so  named  from  conjecture,  as  is  the  case  with  many 


THE    ENVIRONS    OF    NAPLES.  73 

baths,    temples,    villas,    etc.,    in   this   neighbourhood.      Several 
columns,  vases,  statues,  etc.,  have  been  found  here. 

A  few  scanty  fragments  above  the  sea-shore  are  all  that 
remain  of  the  Villa  of  Cicero,  where  the  great  orator  wrote 
his  "  Academicae  "  and  "  De  Fato."  When  Hadrian  died  at 
Baise  in  a.d.  138,  the  body  was  interred  in  the  precincts  of 
Cicero's  Villa  till  a  mausoleum  at  Rome  was  prepared. 

The  road  behind  the  Serapeum  passes  remains  of  various 
kinds,  and  the  adjacent  hills  are  covered  with  ruins  of  baths 
and  various  edifices.  A  few  we  may  briefly  mention.  A  mass 
of  ruins,  resembling  the  hall  of  a  bath,  is  called  the  Temple  of 
Diana.  The  beauty  of  the  site  of  the  Villa  Cardito  is 
striking  ;  its  grounds  contain  baths  and  warm  springs.  The 
Piscina  (erroneously  called  the  Labyrinth),  in  the  Villa 
Lusciano,  may  possibly  have  held  the  water  for  the  Naumachia. 
The  large,  solid  Piscina  Grande,  whose  vaulted  roof  rests  on 
thirty  pilasters,  is  still  used  as  a  reservoir.  Hard  by  are  the 
remains  of  the  Puteoli  branch  of  the  Julian  Aqueduct.  An 
ancient  tunnel  in  the  mountain,  restored  by  Don  Pedro  de 
Toledo,  now  supplies  the  town  with  water.  Some  ruins  known 
as  the  Temple  of  Antinous,  are  in  the  Villa  Licastro. 
They  were  so  named  from  the  discovery  of  a  statue  of 
Antinous,  with  fragments  of  marble  arches  and  beautiful 
columns,  in  1838. 

The  Amphitheatre  (Fee  2  lire;  Sundays  and  holidays  gratis) 
is  the  most  perfect  of  the  ruins  in  this  vicinity.  Three  series 
of  arches,  the  I0we.1t  of  large  stonework,  the  others  of  brick, 
form  the  walls.  Two  minor  entrances  at  the  sides  lead  to  the 
arena  and  to  subterranean  works  of  vast  extent,  including  dens 
for  the  animals,  formed  of  solid  masonry,  and  various  other 
substructions.  The  two  principal  entrances  were  at  the  ends, 
each  approached  by  three  marble  covered  colonnades.  The 
interior  displayed  the  arena,  measuring  236  by  138  feet,  and 
surrounded  by  four  ranges  of  seats,  where  the  spectators  sat 
according  to  their  rank.  Corinthian  columns  of  black  marble 
distinguish  the  seat  of  the  Emperor.  On  the  left  of  the 
principal  entrance,  a  water  conduit  supplied  the  means  of  flooding 
the  arena,  for  the  representation  of  naval  combats.  It  was 
here  that  Nero,  as  Dion  Cassius  relates,  astonished  his  guest, 
Tiridates,  King  of  Armenia,  by  stepping  down  into  the  arena, 
and  slaying  several  wild  beasts  with  his  own  imperial  hands. 
Here  also  St.  Januarius  and  his  companions  are  said  to  have 
been   thrown   to   wild   beasts   before    their   martyrdom.      The 


74  NAPLES. 

chambers  under  tlie  arcade  which  have  been  made  into  a  chapel 
under  the  name  of  the  Carceri  di  S.  Gennaro,  commemorate 
this  legend.  The  visitor  must  not  omit  to  notice  the  magnifi- 
cent prospect  from  the  upper  part  of  the  Amphitheatre. 

The  adjacent  Theatre  has  been  but  little  excavated.  The 
ruins  are  extensive,  but  little  more  than  a  portico  and  a  few 
rows  of  arches  are  above  ground. 

There  is  an  extensive  ruin  on  the  Via  Cumana,  but  anti- 
quaries differ  in  opinion  as  to  whether  it  is  Cicero's  Villa,  a 
Circus,  or  the  Ancient  Stadium.  The  weight  of  evidence 
seems  in  favour  of  the  latter  theory. 

There  have  been  frequent  discoveries  of  ancient  tombs  on 
the  old  roads — the  Via  Campana  leading  to  Capua,  the  Via 
Puteolana  to  Naples,  and  the  Via  Cumana  to  Cumge,  by  which 
St.  Paul  travelled  towards  Rome.  These  tombs  are  of  various 
forms,  some  simple  columns  or  towers,  some  are  temples  or 
chambers,  with  rich  interior  decorations,  others  little  else  than 
masses  of  brickwork.  Many  are  family  columbaria,  from  which 
numerous  sarcophagi,  cinerary  urns,  coins,  personal  ornaments, 
lamps,  etc.,  have  been  transferred  to  the  Naples  Museum. 

The  Capuchin  monastery  of  San  Gennaro  on  a  hill  by  the 
Via  Puteolana,  was  erected  in  1580,  to  commemorate  the 
martyrdom  of  St.  Januarius  on  this  spot  a.d.  305.  A  stone  is 
shown  on  which  the  saint  is  said  to  have  been  beheaded.  At 
the  moment  of  the  annual  liquefaction  of  the  saint's  blood  at 
Naples,  blood  is  said  to  appear  on  this  stone.  There  are  fine 
views  from  hence  across  the  Gulf  of  Pozzuoli. 

EXTINCT  VOLCANOES:  SOLFATARA,  ETC. 

The  Solfatara  is  situated  a  short  distance  beyond  the 
monastery.  The  admission  fee  is  5  1.  for  one  person.  Hills 
of  pumice-stone  surround  an  oblong  space,  the  crater  of  a  semi- 
extinct  volcano,  with  fissures  from  which  sulphurous  vapours 
and  gases  constantly  rise.  The  only  recorded  overflow  of  lava 
was  in  11 98,  when  the  stream  was  poured  forth  which  formed 
Monte  ffabono.     Above  Solfatara  to  the  east  rise  the 

CoUes  Leucogei,  white  hills,  the  stone  from  which  was 
pulverised  by  the  ancients  and  used  for  colouring  various 
substances.  Here,  at  the  foot  of  Monte  Sicco,  are  the  sources 
of  several  aluminous  brooks,  much  in  repute  for  the  cure  of 
cutaneous  diseases.  These  streams,  now  known  as  I.  Pisciarelli, 
and   called   by  Pliny   the   Pontes   Leucogaei,   all   fall   into   the 


THE    ENVIRONS    OF    NAPLES.  75 

ravine  with  a  noise  as  if  the   hollow  caverns  ol    the   mountain 
were  full  of  boiling  water. 

Two  small  craters,  Al.  Cigliano  and  M.  Campana,  lie  north- 
west of  Solfatara,  and  beyond  these  rise 

Monte  Barbaro,  the  loftiest  of  the  volcanic  mountains  m 
the  district.  The  floor  of  the  crater,  which  is  3,}  miles  in 
circumference,  is  a  plain  of  extraordinary  fertility  The  outer 
slopes  of  the  cone  are  covered  with  vineyards.  The  first 
Roman  victory  over  the  Samnites,  340  B.C.,  took  place  al  the 
foot  of  this  mountain. 

Starting  from  the  west  end  of  Pozzuoli,  and  proceeding  along 
the  shore,  the  traveller  will  see  the  ancient  sea-cliff,  now  inland, 
enclosing  a  tract  of  land  called  LaStarsa,  12  to  20  feet  above 
the  sea-level,  which  affords  abundant  opportunity  for  studying 
the  submarine  deposits  of  comparatively  recent  times. 

From  Pozzuoli,  a  journey  of  lA  mile  brings  us  to 

Monte  Nuovo,  an  obtuse  cone,  440  feet  in  height,  with  walls 
of  pumice-stone,  trachyte,  and  tufa  enclosing  a  crater  419  feet 
in  depth.  During  two  years  frequent  earthquakes  preceded 
the  upheaval  of  this  mountain  in  Se|)tember,  1538.  In  that 
month  the  shocks  became  more  frequent,  till,  on  the  28th, 
twenty  shocks  were  felt  in  the  twenty-four  hours,  elevating  the 
coast  from  Misenum  to  Coroglio  to  such  an  extent  that  the  sea 
retired  200  paces  from  its  ancient  boundary.  Of  the  quantities 
of  dead  fish,  etc.,  left  on  the  strip  of  land  thus  formed,  the 
subsidence  of  the  volcanic  rocks,  leaving  a  gulf  filled  with  hot 
water — the  dense  volumes  of  steam,  which,  combining  with 
ashes,  fell  in  showers  of  black  mud  as  far  as  Naples,  the 
projection  of  stones  "  larger  than  an  ox,"  to  the  height  of  a 
mile  and  a  half,  and  the  fall  of  ashes  over  the  surrounding 
country,  even  as  far  as  parts  of  Calabria,  150  miles  distant — of 
all  these,  and  similar  startling  phenomena,  the  details  may  be 
found  in  contemporary  accounts.  The  upheaval  left  behind  it 
the  mount. lin  we  are  describing,  i|  miles  in  circumference, 
completely  covering  the  ancient  village  of  Tripergola,  a  villa  of 
the  Anjou  kings,  the  baths  and  hospital  erected  by  Charles  II., 
the  ruins  of  Agri[)pina's  Villa,  more  than  half  tiie  Lucrine  Lake, 
and  the  canal  connecting  it  with  Avernus. 

Following  the  road  that  leads  southward  from  .Monte  Nuovo 
we  reach 

Lake  Lucrinus,  separated  from  the  sea  by  a  narrow  strip  of 
land.  This  lake  was  once  celebrated  for  its  oysters  ;  it  is  now 
little  better  than  a  marshy  swamp  ;  beneath  the  surface   of  the 


7'^  NAPLES. 

water  may  be  seen  a  portion  of  the  submerged  bank  once 
called  the  Via  Herculea,  from  a  tradition  that  it  was  followed 
by  Hercules  when  he  drove  away  the  bulls  of  Geryon.  The 
causewav  was  strengthened  by  Julius  Caesar,  and  repaired  by 
Agrippa  when  he  formed  the  Portus  Julius.  Considerable 
remains  of  the  quays  of  this  harbour  still  exist.  The  oysters 
spoken  of  by  Cicero,  and  the  mussels  in  which  Horace 
delighted,  are  no  longer  found  here  ;  but  a  profitable  fishery  of 
grey  mullet  and  spigola  flourishes  instead. 

A  rough  road  conducts  from  Lake  Lucrinus  to 

Lake  Avernus.  This  lake  is  the  central  portion  of  an 
extinct  volcano,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  circumference 
and  250  feet  deep,  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  hills  richly 
covered  with  the  chestnut  and  the  vine.  Up  to  about  the 
time  of  Augustus  noxious  volcanic  gases  seem  to  have  risen 
through  the  lake,  and  these  vapours  were  so  confined  by  the 
dense  surrounding  forest  that  it  was  said  no  bird  could  fly 
across  it ;  there  are,  at  the  present  time,  plenty  of  waterfovd 
and  fish.  The  Cimmerii  {see  "Odyssey,"  Book  xi)  were  said 
to  dwell  in  the  gloomy  ravines  and  sunless  caverns  surrounding 
this  lake  ;  and  here  the  oracles  of  the  infernal  regions  were 
evoked.  By  a  cavern  near  this  lake  ^neas,  led  by  the  Sibyl, 
passed  to  the  abode  of  spirits  (^n.  vi,  237).  Hither,  214  B.C., 
came  Hannibal,  avowedly  to  sacrifice  to  Pluto  ;  but,  as  Livy 
asserts,  to  prepare  an  attack  on  Puteoli.  But  all  these  legends 
and  superstitions  seem  to  have  been  roughly  dispelled  by  the 
engineering  works  of  Agrippa,  who  cut  down  the  forest, 
connected  both  Lucrinus  and  Avernus  with  the  sea  by  a  canal, 
and  so  formed  for  the  Roman  fleet  a  harbour  extolled  as  a 
prodigy  by  both  Horace  and  Virgil.  The  canals  and  wharves 
of  Agrippa  existed  till  destroyed  by  the  upheaval  of  Monte 
Nuovo.  Subsequent  attempts  to  restore  the  harbour,  etc., 
have  failed,  but  there  has  lately  been  some  talk  of  reconnecting 
these  lakes  with  the  sea. 

There  are  numerous  cuttings  and  grottoes  on  the  south  of 
Lake  Avernus.     The  most  important,  called  the 

Qrotta  della  Sibilla,  is  part  of  the  tunnel  formed  by 
Agrippa  to  connect  the  lake  with  Cumae.  Through  a  brick 
gateway  the  traveller  enters  a  long  damp  passage,  with  the 
rockwork  occasionally  strengthened  with  masonry ;  about 
midway,  a  passage  on  the  right  leads  into  a  small  square 
chamber  styled  the  "  Entrance  to  the  Infernal  Regions " ; 
near   it  is  a  chamber  arranged  as  a  bath,  and  with  the  floor 


THE    ENVIRONS   OF    NAPLES.  TJ 

covered  to  the  depth  of  a  foot  with  tepid  water  ;  this  is  called 
the  "Bath  of  the  Sibyl."  The  whole  length  of  the  grotto  is 
280  feet.  Fee  for  admittance,  (torches  included)  as  arranged. 
West  of  Lake  Avernus  is  the  Grotta  della  Pace  ;  it  was 
doubtless  Agrippa's  tunnel  to  Cumae.  The  steepness  of  this 
tunnel  is  alluded  to  in  the  phrase  ^''  facilis  est  descensus  Averni." 
East  of  the  lake  are  ruins  of  some  magnificent  baths,  sometimes 
called  the  Temple  of  Apollo  ;  amidst  these  extensive  remains 
rises  a  mineral   spring,  the  Acqua  Capona. 

The  Bag-ni  di  Tritoli,  mentioned  by  Pliny,  will  be  found 
near  the  high  road  a  little  beyond  the  Lucrine  Lake  ;  only  part 
of  the  present  edifice  is  ancient.  At  a  short  distance,  a  path 
on  the  mountam  slope  leads  to  a  long,  dark,  rocky  passage,  at 
the  end  of  which  are  the 

Stufe  di  Nerone.  These  are  warm  springs  (the  ancient 
Thermce  Ne romance),  temperature  182°  Fahrenheit;  access  to 
the  springs,  il.  ;  for  cooking  eggs,  i  1.  is  charged  ;  rheumatic 
patients  and  other  invalids  find  the  steam  from  these  springs 
beneficial. 

BAI^E   (BAIA). 

Carriages  leave  Thos.  Cook  &  Son's  Offices  daily  at 
9.30  a.m.  for  this  delightful  excursion  {see  p.  65). 

Small  Inn  (  Victoria).  Carriages  meet  the  train  to  visit  Cape 
Miseno,  the  Piscina  Mirabilis,  Bacoli,  and  the  Lago  del  Fusaro 
(four  hours,  including  waiting).  Bargain  necessary.  A  guide 
can  be  hired  for  the  afternoon. 

The  lovely  Bay  of  Baias,  with  which  Horace  declared 
"  nothing  in  the  world"  could  be  compared,  still  charms  by  its 
natural  l)eauty.  The  approach  from  the  side  of  the  Lucrine 
Lake  is  especially  lovely.  But  the  splendour  of  the  Roman 
watering-place  is  departed  ;  the  palatial  villas  which  once 
covered  the  surrounding  hills  are  no  more.  Li  their  place  we 
have  innumerable  fragments  of  masonry  and  brickwork,  and 
mosaic  pavement,  ruins  of  every  kind  half-hidden  in  under- 
wood, but  all  helping  to  prove  the  luxury  and  magnificence  so 
often  alluded  to  by  Latin  writers.  Baiee  is  said  to  have 
derived  its  name  from  Baius,  pilot  of  Ulysses.  Of  its  early 
history  little  is  known  ;  but  in  the  reign  of  Tiberius  it  had 
become  pre-eminent  among  Italian  cities  for  fashion  and 
immorality.  Although  many  of  the  ruins  are  named,  not  one 
can  be  really  identified.  Pompey,  Cresar,  Domitian,  Crassus, 
Cato,  and  a  crowd  of  illustrious   Romans  all  had  villas  here. 


/cS  NAl'LES. 

In  Piso's  villa  Seneca  and  Lucien  plotted  against  Nero.  At 
Baiae  Hadrian  wrote  the  "  Animula,  vagula,  blandula,"  and 
here  he  died.  Baias  declined  as  the  Roman  Emperors  fell ;  the 
Saracens  ravaged  it  in  the  8th  century,  and  in  the  i6th  it  was 
deserted. 

The  large  ruins  known  as  the  Temple  of  Mercury  (called 
by  the  peasants  //  troi:;lio,  the  trough  ;  fine  echo  inside  the 
building),  the  Temple  of  Venus,  and  the  Temple  of  Diana, 
are  evidently  baths.  The  Temple  of  Venus  is  a  public  thorough- 
fare ;  for  admission  to  the  other  two,  from  i  1.  to  i  1.  50  c.  is 
charged. 

A  boat  excursion  to  the  Cento  Camarelle,  Piscina  Mirabilis 
and  Misenum  can  be  conveniently  undertaken  from  the 
harbour  of  Baise  (15  to  20  1.),  or  can  be  made  by  the  road  which 
skirts  the  bay  and  rises  slightly.  On  the  left,  Castle  or  Fort 
of  Baise,  built  by  Don  Pedro  (i6th  century).  Beautiful  view, 
especially  at  sunset. 

The  following  remains  of  Roman  structures  will  interest  the 
archeeologist : — 

Bacoli,  one  mile  from  the  fort  (anc.  Baiili,  but  site  nearer 
shore).  Tomb  of  Agrippina,  really  a  small  theatre ; 
stuccoes,  reliefs,  etc.,  damaged  by  the  torches  of  the  guides. 
Villa  of  Hortensius,  partly  under  water ;  here  were  the 
ponds  of  Miimine,  celebrated  by  Cicero,  PHny,  etc. ;  in  this 
villa  Nero  planned  the  murder  of  his  mother  Agrippina, 
which  was  effected  at  her  residence  by  the  Lucrine  Lake. 
The  structure  called  the  Cento  Camarelle,  Carceri  di 
Nerone,  or  Labyrinth  (fee  i  1.),  is  of  doubtful  origin,  but 
supposed  to  have  formed  part  of  the  Villa  of  Julius  Caesar, 
where  Octavia  mourned  the  death  of  the  hopeful  young  prince, 
Marcellus,  immortalised  by  Virgil.  The  Cento  Camarelle 
consists  of  a  number  of  vaulted  chambers  separated  l)y 
pilasters,  apparently  reservoirs  for  water. 

Between  Bacoli  and  the  Mare  Morto  is  seen  on  the  left 
the  Piscina  Mirabilis  (fee  i  1.).  This  excavated  reservoir, 
220  feet  long  by  83  feet  broad,  formed  the  end  of  the  Julian 
Aqueduct,  and  supplied  water  for  the  Roman  fleet  when  off 
Misenum.  Forty-eight  massive  columns  support  a  vaulted  roof. 
The  whole  is  in  admirable  preservation.  Forty  steps  lead  to 
the  bottom  of  the  reservoir,  where  an  arrangement  for 
collecting  the  sediment  from  the  water  is  visible.  Vases  and 
other   antiquities   from  the   neighbourhood  can  be   purchased 


THE    ENVIRONS   OF    NAPLES.  79 

from  a  dealer  on  the  right  of  the  approach  from   BacoH   to  the 
Piscina. 

The  Punto  di  Pennata,  perforated  with  two  tunnels  by 
Agrippa,  to  hinder  accumulation  of  sand,  forms  the  north 
boundary  of  the  harbour  of  Misenum.  The  remains  of  the 
piers  of  a  mole  are  seen  under  the  water.  Some  ruins  on  the 
Punta  are  supposed  to  mark  the  site  of  the  Villa  of  Cornelia, 
mother  of  the  Gracchi. 

MISENUM. 

P>om  the  reign  of  Augustus  to  that  of  Titus,  the  Harbour 
of  Misenum,  constructed  from  Agrippa's  plans,  was  the 
station  of  the  Mediterranean  fleet.  It  had  three  basins  ;  the 
marsh  known  as  the  Mare  Morto  w^as  the  inner  one.  A 
causeway  now  separates  the  Mare  Morto  from  the  harbour. 
Beyond  the  causeway  rises  abruptly  the  pyramidal  Capo 
Miseno  (268  feet),  said  to  have  been  so  named  on  account  of 
its  being  the  burial-place  of  Missenus,  trumpeter  of  ALnea.s 
(JEn.  vi,  232).  The  somewhat  fatiguing  ascent  (three-quarters 
of  an  hour  from  Bacoli)  should  be  undertaken  on  account  of 
the  fine  view  from  the  summit.  Observe,  in  passing,  reservoirs 
for  obtaining  salt  by  evaporation.  The  village  of  Miseno,  or 
Casaluce,  perhaps  marks  the  ancient  city  (never  very  large)  and 
naval  arsenal  of  Misenum.  Ruins  of  a  Theatre  still  exist  on 
the  promontory  called  II  Forno.  Of  the  Villa  of  Lucullus 
nothing  remains  but  some  scanty  ruins  on  the  heights  ;  the 
Grotto  Dragonara,  another  Roman  relic,  is  a  long  subter- 
ranean passage,  with  columns  supporting  a  vaulted  roof,  whether 
reservoir  or  magazine  is  uncertain.  Near  this  point  two 
mediaeval  watch-towers  are  seen.  A  lighthouse  marks  the 
extreme  end  of  the  promontory. 

Westward  from  C.  Miseno  lies  a  strip  of  beach,  separating 
the  Mare  Morto  from  the  sea,  once  the  Militum  Schola,  or 
parade-ground  of  the  Roman  soldiers.  Modern  name  Miniscola. 
Krom  this  beach  boats  cross  the  (^anale  di  Procida  to 
Procida  or  Tschia.  ^\'est  from  this  beach  rises  the  volcanic 
rock  known  as  Monte  di  Procida,  covered  witli  vineyards 
yielding  excellent  wine ;  numerous  fragments  of  Roman  villas 
remain.  The  south-west  point  of  this  promontory  is  the  Punta 
di  Fumo.     Off  the  west  point  lies  the  rock  of  San  Martino. 

North  of  the  Mare  Morto,  and  stretching  to  the  Lago  del 
Fusaro,  lies  a  well-cultivated  plain,  which  antiquaries  consider 


8o  NAIT.ES. 

to  1)6  the  Campi  Elyssii  of  the  sixtli  hook  of  the  .'Eneid. 
Amongst  the  vineyards  and  gardens  arc  numerous  tombs, 
chiefly  of  sailors  from  the  fleet  at  Misenum,  as  the  inscriptions 
show.  'I'he  ancient  road  across  these  fields  to  Cumae  leads  by 
the  Lago  del  Fusaro.  (Train  from  Baife,  rather  more  than 
half  a  mile.)  This  was  the  Acherusian  Lake  of  the  poets.  It 
was  probably  once  the  port  of  Cumai.  A  Roman  canal,  the 
Foce  del  Fusaro,  connects  it  with  the  sea.  It  is  still,  as  of  old, 
famous  for  its  oysters.  Numerous  remains  of  villas,  tombs,  etc., 
are  in  the  neighbourhood.  In  the  centre  of  the  lake  is  a 
pavilion,  built  by  Ferdinand  I.  The  lake  is  supposed  to  be  an 
extinct  crater.  On  the  north  side,  on  a  projecting  piece  of  land 
called  the  Torregaveta,  are  the  remains  of  the  villa  of  Servilius 
Vatia,  who  retired  to  this  place  when  Nero's  cruelty  and  follv 
made  life  at  Rome  unbearable.  Some  ruined  arches  on  the 
hills  between  Fusaro  and  Avernus  are  supposed  to  mark  the 
site  of  Cicero's  Villa  Cumana.  The  Naples-Cumana  Railway 
ends  at  Torregaveta  {see  p.  i ).      Steamers  for  Procida  daily. 


CUM/C. 

Two  miles  and  a  half  by  the  Via  Domitiana  from  the  Lago 
del  Fusaro  brings  the  traveller  to  Cum;i3.  The  direct  road  from 
Naples  and  Pozzuoli  (the  Via  Cumana)  passes  north  of  L. 
Avernus,  and  by  the  Arco  Felice. 

Cumae  stands  on  an  isolated  hill,  forming  one  of  the  ranges 
of  "  sea-girt  cliffs "  spoken  of  by  Pindar.  It  was  the  most 
ancient  Greek  colony  in  Italy.  Hence  the  Romans  obtained 
the  Sibylline  Books  long  preserved  in  the  Capitol.  After 
becoming  absorbed  in  the  Roman  dominions,  Cumge  long 
remained  an  important  city,  till,  under  the  emperors,  it  decHned. 
It  was  restored  by  the  Goths,  burnt  by  the  Saracens  in  the  9th 
century,  and  completely  destroyed  by  the  inhabitants  of  Naples, 
as  being  a  mere  harbour  for  pirates  and  robbers.  The  huge 
walls  of  the  lofty 

Acropolis  afford  an  exten--ive  prospect  of  the  sea  as  far  as 
Gaeta  and  the  Ponza  Islands,  with  L.  Fusaro  and  Ischia  on  the 
left.  Notice  remnants  of  the  ancient  fortifications  at  the  south 
and  west  entrance.  Numerous  caverns  are  excavated  in  all 
directions  in  the  rock  on  which  the  Acropolis  stands.  One  ot 
these  should  be  visited,  viz.,  that  known  as  the 


THE    ENVIRONS   OF    NAPLES.  8 1 

Grotto  of  the  Sibyl,  from  its  supjjosed  identity  with  that 
mentioned  by  Virgil  (.^n.  vi,  43),  which  had  a  hundred 
entrances,  etc.,  whence  resounded  "as  many  voices,  echoing  the 
oracles  of  the  prophetess."  Many  of  the  passages  are  blocked 
up.  We  find  from  Justin  Martyr  that  the  Sibyl  was  still 
consulted  in  a.d.  150. 

Several  ruins  of  interest  are  found  in  and  near  Cumje,  among 
them  the  following : — Temple  of  Apollo,  conspicuous  on 
highest  point  of  the  Acropolis.  Only  one  Doric  column 
remains.  Temple  of  the  Giants,  from  which  was  taken 
the  colossal  Jupiter  Stator  in  the  Naples  Museum.  Temple  of 
Serapis,  where  colossal  Egyptian  statues  were  discovered  in 
1839.  Temple  of  Diana,  excavated  by  the  Count  of  Syracuse 
in  1852.  Beautiful  Corinthian  columns  of  cipilino  with  cornices, 
statuary,  etc.,  now  removed  to  Naples.  The  Necropolis  of 
Cumse  has  yielded  a  vast  store  of  vase.s,  ornaments,  etc.  {See 
Naples  Museum,  p.  37.) 

The  traveller  may  return  by  the  Via  Cumana  to  Pozzuoli  and 
Naples,  or  by  the  Cumana  Railway  from  Torregaveta. 

[The  more  resolule  antiquary,  if  willing  to  devote  a  separate  day  to  the 
Northern  Craters  and  CuniK,  may  continue  north  to  Liternum,  though  there 
is  little  of  general  interest.  The  road  follows  the  Via  Domitiana  (6  miles), 
passing  numerous  tombs,  etc  In  this  direction  will  be  SL-en  : — Lake  of 
Licola,  a  source  of  malaria  on  this  coast  ;  Monte  Gamdo,  mentioned 
by  Pliny;  Forest  of  Hamae  (Triva;  Lucus  of  Virgil) ;  Liternum, 
ancient  Roman  colony.  Here  Scipio  Africanus  died  in  exile.  Lago  di 
Patria,  River  Volturno,  etc] 

On  leaving  Cuma^  to  return  to  Naples,  a  long  vaulted  tunnel, 
known  as  the 

Grotta  della  Pace,  can  be  seen  from  the  carriage.  It 
is  about  half  a  mile  in  length,  lighted  by  vertical  shafts  at 
intervals,  and  was  ])robably  a  portion  of  the  engineering  works 
of  Agrippa.  Pedestrians  can  reach  the  north-west  bank  of 
Lake  Avernus  by  this  excavation.  About  500  yards  past  the 
lava-paved  road  leading  down  to  tlie  tunnel  is  the 

Arco  Felice,  60  feet  high  and  18  feet  wide,  spanning  a 
deep  gulley.  It  was  probably  a  bridge,  and  also  part  of  an 
a(iueduct.  The  traveller  now  reaches  the  road  (at  the  railway 
station  of  Arco  Felice)  between  Baiaj  and  Pozzuoli,  already 
traversed. 


82  NAI'LES. 

THE  ISLANDS    OF    PROCIDA   AND  ISCHIA. 

This  excursion  can  be  made  from  Naples  in  two  days,  but 
three  or  four  days  may  be  well  spent  by  those  who  have  time 
to  spare. 

Those  who  wish  to  visit  Casamicciola  <jnly,  can  do  so  from  Naples, 
returning  to  Naples  the  same  day,  by  taking  the  train  on  the  new 
Cum  ana  Railway  at  Monte  Santo  to  Torregavela,  thence  by  steamer  to 
Procida,  Ischia,  Casamicciola,  returning  by  steamer  to  Torregavela,  then 
train  to  Naples.  In  bad  weather  the  steamer  sometimes  starts  from 
Pozzuoli  instead  of  from  Torregaveta. 

Steamers. — Start  from  the  Immacolatella  Vecchia.  From 
Naples  to  Procida,  about  i^  hours;  to  Ischia,  2\  hours;  to 
Casamicciola,  2\  hours;  to  Forio,  3-^  hours.  For  particulars, 
consult  local  time-tables. 


Some  tourists,  after  visiting  Procida  and  Ischia,  cross  to 
Miniscola,  and,  meeting  a  carriage  previously  ordered  fiom 
Naples,  proceed  to  visit  Pozzuoli,  Baiae,  and  the  adjacent 
country  previously  described. 

The  island  of  Procida  appears  to  have  been  severed  from 
Ischia  by  volcanic  action.  A  population  of  nearly  14,000  live 
prosperously  by  supplying  the  markets  ot  Naples  with  fruit, 
wine,  etc.,  and  by  shipbuilding.  The  most  prominent  object 
on  approaching  the  island  is  the  fort  on  the  north-west  extremity 
(the  Punta  di  Rocciola).  Beneath  it  lie  the  flat-roofed,  white 
houses  of  the  town  of  Procida. 

After  visiting  the  Castle  (now  a  house  of  Correction),  for  the 
sake  of  the  splendid  view,  travellers  can  proceed  by  the  after- 
noon steamer  to  Casamicciola,  or  they  can  traverse  the  main 
street  of  Procida  as  far  as  the  Bay  of  Chiajolella  (2  miles), 
where  boats  are  found  for  crossing  to  Porto  cT Ischia,  then  on 
foot,  or  by  donkey  to  Casamicciola. 

The  approach  to  the  island  of  Ischia  affords  a  truly  mag- 
nificent scene.  Above  the  rows  of  white  houses,  built  on 
ancient  lava  streams  by  the  shore,  and  the  imposing  castle  on 
its  precipitous  rock,  rise  picturesque  mountains  clothed  with 
rich  vegetation,  and  capped  by  the  lofty  Epomeo.  North-east 
ihe  mountains  of  Terracina  are  visible ;  east,  Ciaeta ;  south-east, 
Vesuvius. 

This  scene  is  familiar  to  most  persons  by  reason  of  the 
beautiful  pictures  of  it  by  great  artists — Turner,  Stanfield, 
Roberts,  and  many  others 


THE    ENVIRONS   OF    NAPLES.  83 

The  island  of  Ischia  was  at  one  time  the  chief  seat  of  volcanic 
action  in  South  Italy.  It  is  twenty  miles  in  circumference, 
having  a  beach  on  the  north  and  west,  but  on  the  south  and 
east  the  land  terminates  in  abrupt  precipices.  The  population 
of  about  30,000  subsist  chiefly  by  the  cultivation  of  the  vine 
and  by  the  fisheries.  The  climate  of  the  island  is  delightful, 
the  air  being  always  five  to  ten  degrees  cooler  than  at  Naples. 
The  soil  is  exceedingly  productive  ;  the  flora,  especially  as  regards 
ferns  and  orchids,  is  interesting.  The  mineral  waters  of  Ischia 
are  the  strongest  in  Europe,  and  should  only  be  taken  under 
medical  superintendence.  In  all  historic  periods,  visitors  have 
delighted  to  sojourn  in  Ischia,  and  have  joined  in  the  general 
chorus  of  admiration.  Bishop  Berkeley,  writing  to  the  poet 
Pope,  says  the  island  "is  an  epitome  of  the  whole  eatth, 
containing  a  wonderlul  variety  of  hills,  vale.^,  rugged  rocks, 
fruitful  plains,  and  barren  mountains,  all  thrown  together  in  a 
most  romantic 'confusion."  Of  the  view  from  Epomeo  he  says, 
"  You  have  the  finest  prospect  in  the  world,  surveying  at  one 
view,  besides  several  pleasant  islands  lying  at  your  feet,  a  tract 
of  Italy  about  three  hundred  miles  in  length  from  the  promon- 
tory of  Antium  to  the  Cape  of  Palinurus.  Amongst  the  peaceful 
and  laborious  people  of  this  beautiful  island,  such  a  thing  as 
robbery  is  almost  unheard  of" 

Ischia  is  the  capital  of  the  island;  2,750  inhabitants.  (No 
hotel.)  Permission  may  be  obtained  from  the  commandant  to 
explore  the  castle,  built  by  Alfonso  V.  of  Arragon.  A  mole 
connects  the  castle  with  the  mainland,  and  from  this  mole 
the  town  stretches  along  the  coast  to  the  Punta  Molina,  formed 
by  the  lava  current  of  1302.  A  good  road  skirts  the  north 
coast  of  the  island,  passing  Porto  dTschia  and  Casamicciola, 
thence  to  Forio  on  the  west  coast,  continiiing  round  the  south 
side  to  the  east  coast  near  Ischia.  From  Ischia  a  drive  or  walk 
of  one  mile  brings  the  visitor  10 

Porto  d' Ischia  (a  circular  harbour),  at  one  time  a  crater 
and  lake ;  afterwards  connected  with  the  sea,  in  1856,  to 
afford  refuge  to  vessels.  There  are  several  warm  salt 
springs,  which  are  utilised  at  the  bathing  establishments, 
the  most  important  of  these  being  in  the  Piazza,  close  to 
the  park  and  small  casino.  The  journey,  continued  by  the 
Via  Querela,  offers  beautiful  coast  and  sea  views,  and,  in  about 
3  miles,  leads  to 

Casamicciola,  formerly  the  most  frequented  spot  in  the 
island  ;    and  at    one    time    the    population    exceeded    7,000. 


84  NAPLES. 

Destroyed  by  an  earthquake  on  the  28th  of  July,  18S3.  The 
town  has  been  rebuilt,  under  Government  supervision,  in  groups 
of  houses  on  the  slopes  of  the  Epomeo  and  several  hotels,  well 
spoken  of,  will  be  found  both  near  the  Marina  and  on  the  hill. 

Many  delightful  walks  and  excursions,  with  beautiful 
views.  Numerous  hot  springs  and  bathing  establishments, 
the  most  important  being  those  of  Belliazzi  and  Manzi. 
On  the  Marina  are  baths  for  400  poor  persons. 

The  ascent  of  Monte  Epomeo  (2,782  feet)  can  be  made 
from  here,  but  is  better  made  from  Fontana,  about  two 
hours  from  Casamicciola  via  Porto  d'lschia,  or  Bagni 
dTschia,  so-called  from  its  many  warm  salt  springs  and 
bathing  establishments.  Carriage  from  Casamicciola  and 
back ;  horse  or  donkey  for  ascent,  3  hours.  Notice  Monte 
Rotaro,  perfect  specimen  of  extinct  crater,  whence  issued  the 
eruption  which  expelled  the  first  Greek  colony  in  Ischia,  and 
gave  rise  to  the  fable  of  the  imprisoned  Typhteus  shaking  the 
island  with  his  strugcles.  At  the  Hermitage  of  St.  Nicola,  an 
anchorite  keeps  a  visitors'  book.  The  best  view  of  sea,  islands, 
and  distant  mountains  is  from  the  Belvedere,  a  rocky  platform. 

The  tour  of  the  island  in  a  carriage  with  two  horses  occupies 
about  eight  hours.  Lacco,  Forio  (the  most  populous  place  in 
the  island),  Panza,  Moropano  (or  Buonopane)  are  the  chief 
villages  passed.  Everywhere  the  most  charming  and  diversified 
scenery  meets  the  eye. 

As  compared  with  Capri,  comparatively  few  travellers 
visit  Ischia.  'I'rue,  it  has  no  famous  Blue  Grotto  like  Capri — 
yet  in  many  ways  it  is  more  attractive.  It  has  the  charm  of 
(juiet  beauty,  full  of  the  most  exquisite  walks  and  drives 
and  mountain  rambles.  Its  wines  are  remarkably  good,  as  are 
all  the  fruits  of  Ischia,  and  its  inhabitants  — husbandmen  and 
fisherfolk — are  courteous  and  hospitable. 


NAPLES   TO    VESUVIUS. 

Excursions  leave  Cook's  Office,  Naples,  daily,  {see  p.  66). 

Of  all  the  interesting  and  enjoyable  excursions  to  be 
made  from  Naples,  the  visit  to  Mount  Vesuvius  must  be 
set  down  as  certainly  one  of  the  most  attractive.  And 
by  means  of  Thos.  Cook  &  Son's,  electric  railway  the  visit 
is  now  rendered  easy  and  agreeable,  and  not  too  tiring 
for  even    delicate    persons.       The    route    adopted     for    this 


NAPLES    TO   VESUVIUS.  85 

fascinating  excursion  is  explained  below,  and  a  perusal  of 
the  details  will  sufifice  to  show  that  it  is  the  only  one  to 
commend  itself  to  travellers. 

The  ascent  of  Mount  Vesuvius  is  made  by  means  of 
the  Electric  Raihvay  from  Pugliano,  the  property  of  Thos. 
Cook  &  Son. 

From  Naples  to  Pugliano  passengers  are  conveyed  by  the 
Electric  Circumvesttviana  Raihvay  from  Corso  Garibaldi,  and 
thus  the  journey  to  the  summit  of  Vesuvius  is  accomplished 
rapidly,  and  with  the  greatest  comfort,  by  electric  power 
instead  of  by  the  long  and  fatiguing  carriage  route  of  former 
arrangements. 

The  Railway  (which  was  completed  in  1903)  from  Pugliano 
to  within  a  few  yards  of  the  crater  has  a  total  length  of 
4f  miles,  and  is  divided  into  three  sections.  The  first  and 
third  sections  are  both  adhesion  lines — ordinary  lines  on 
which  self-propelling  electric  cars  run.  The  maximum  incline 
on  both  these  sections  is  only  8  per  cent.  The  second 
section  is  a  rack  railway  with  a  maximum  incline  as  great  as 
that  of  the  Rigi  Railway — viz.,  25  per  cent.  The  rack  rail 
is  constructed  on  the  Strub  system,  and  is  similar  to  the 
perfected  system  adopted  on  the  railway  up  the  Jungfrau. 
The  generating  station  is  at  the  foot  of  Monte  Cateroni. 
The  cars  have  a  seating  capacity  of  twenty-four,  and  of 
forty-four,  and  there  are  two  independent  methods  of 
braking,  giving  the  most  powerful  braking  action  obtainable. 

From  the  above  description  it  will  be  seen  that  tbe 
visit  to  Vesuvius  can  now  be  made  as  follows  : — 

(i)  Electric  Railway  and  Tramway  from  Naples  to  Pugliano, 

5  miles,  in  about  40  minutes. 
(2)  Electric    Railway    from    Pugliano    almost    to    the  edge 

of  the  crater,  4!  miles,  in  42  minutes. 

From  Pugliano  to  the  generatmg  station  at  the  foot  of 
Monte  Cateroni  the  line  runs  along  vineyards  where  grow  the 
grapes  from  which  the  famous  "  T.acrima  Christi  "  is  produced, 
and  by  orchards  and  gardens  in  which  oranges  and  lemons 
flourish  in  perfection.  As  the  line  rises  the  houses  along  the 
route  gradually  disappear,  and  charming  views  are  disclosed. 

From  the  generating  station,  by  the  aid  of  the  loco- 
motive, the  train  ascends  the  slo{)e  of  Mootc  Cateroni, 
traversing  in  its  climb  lovely  chestnut  and  acacia  woods 
intersected    by    deep    ravines    such    as    one    finds    on    the 

G  2 


86  NAPLES. 

Rigi,  and  affording  enchanting  views  over  the  Bay  of 
Naples.  At  the  Hermitage  station  there  is  a  view  so  beautiful 
and  fascinating  that  it  may  well  be  doubted  if  its  equal 
exists  anywhere  else  in  the  world.  At  this  lovely  spot 
Thos.  Cook  &  Son  have  built  an  Hotel-Restaurant  "  The 
Hermitage."  From  this  delightful  spot  the  train  proceeds  past 
the  Royal  Observatory,  and  in  about  twelve  minutes  arrives 
close  to  the  edge  of  the  crater.  In  this  short  ride  the  change 
is  from  a  garden  to  a  desert.  The  line  enters  the  enormous 
lava  and  rubble  fields,  where  lava  lies  all  around  in  the  most 
wonderful  shapes.  The  mighty  cone  ot  ashes  which  towers 
above  the  broad  mountain  of  lava  is  an  impressive  spectacle. 
Its  column  of  smoke  rises  swift  and  black ;  all  around  is  the 
stillness  of  death.  Only  the  brilliant  sunshine  and  the  azure 
sky  remind  the  spectator  of  life. 

At  the  foot  of  the  cone  the  passenger  changes  into  the  cars 
of  the  Funicular  and  in  ten  minutes  ascends  to  within  a  few 
yards  of  the  Crater.  The  height  of  the  Lower  Station  is  2,478 
feet  above  sea  level,  that  of  the  Upper  Station  3,727  feet  and 
that  of  the  Crater  3,822  feet.  An  easy  foot-path  leads  from  the 
Upper  Station  to  the  edge  of  the  Crater. 

For  the  visit  to  the  Crater  the  Government  has  made  the 
services  of  guides  compulsory.  These  official  guides  are  not 
under  the  control  of  the  Railway. 

Here  on  the  summit  of  Vesuvius  with  smoke  issuing  out  of 
invisible  fissures  around,  the  imposing  black  column  in  the 
background,  the  traveller  sees  a  picture  which  will  ever  be 
remembered.  He  sees  the  ravines,  valleys,  and  fields  of 
petrified  lava  in  all  their  curious  formations.  He  sees  the 
white  houses  in  the  plain  scattered  about  singly  or  clustering 
together  into  towns.  He  sees  the  blue  sea  which  in  its 
majestic  calm  is  rippling  along  the  coast,  and  right  and  left  over 
the  low  mountains  of  the  Campagna  other  fair  regions  come 
into  vision.  But  he  also  sees  the  mounds  which  are  funereal 
memorials  of  the  cities  and  hamlets  of  past  centuries,  and  he 
hears  the  long-drawn,  hollow  rolling  in  the  depths  of  the 
mountain,  which  reminds  him  that  the  force  is  still  alive  which 
buried  them  beneath  the  deadly  lava  streams,  and  that  it  may 
again  destroy  the  works  of  man,  and  change  a  prosperous  and 
smiling  district  into  a  desert. 

"  The  graceful  curve  of  the  bay,  a  sheet  of  soft  but  intense 
azure,  dotted  with  white  sails ;    the  long  winding  shore  as  far  as 


NAPLES   TO    VESUVIUS.  87 

Naples,  gay  with  suburbs  ;  the  hills  of  Pausilipo  covered  with 
villas  ;  the  distant  inlet  of  Baise ;  the  islands  of  Ischia  and 
Capri  ;  the  bold  headlands  of  Sorrento ;  the  far-distant  sea 
extending  away  towards  Mola ;  this  unequalled  combination 
of  objects,  so  varied  in  outline,  so  exquisite  in  colour,  and 
o'er-canopied  by  an  atmosphere  so  pure,  a  sky  so  lucid  and 
transparent,  that  the  lungs  seem  to  expand  with  delight  in 
breathing  it ;  such  is  the  view."  Of  this  view  Goethe  declared 
that  one  look  westward  repaid  all  the  toil  of  the  ascent. 
Unless  the  volcano  is  actually  in  eruption,  tourists  may 
approach  the  brink  of  the  crater  without  risk,  except  that  ot 
frizzling  the  soles  of  their  shoes.  The  crater  changes  its  form 
after  every  great  eruption.  The  desolate  and  weird  appeal - 
ance  of  the  summit  is  very  striking. 

The  height  of  Mount  Vesuvius  varies  from  time  to  time, 
according  as  the  overflowing  lava  adds  to  it  or  carries  away 
previous  deposits.  In  1845  it  stood  3,900  feet  above  the  sea- 
level ;  in  1868  it  had  increased  more  than  350  feet.  The 
eruption  of  1872  somewhat  reduced  it ;  but  since  then  small 
deposits  have  been  added  by  minor  eruptions.  The  last 
eruption  was  in  1906.  The  north-eastern  mountain  is  called 
Monte  Somma,  or  the  highest  mountain.  Its  highest  peak  is 
called  the  Pun  fa  del  Nasone,  or  Nose  Point.  A  deep,  curving 
valley,  called  Atrio  del  Cavallo,  lies  between  the  Somma  and 
the  bulk  of  the  mountain.  The  latter  consists  of  a  cone  of 
ashes,  from  whose  centre  opens  the  crater.  The  sides  of  the 
intervening  valley  are  very  precipitous,  but  the  slope  of  the 
mountain  towards  the  sea  is  quite  gradual. 

Ancient  Vesuvius. — Although  the  mountain  has  been 
for  hundreds  of  years  the  only  outlet  in  a  district  highly 
volcanic  in  all  directions,  in  earlier  times  it  showed  Httle  signs 
of  eruption.  Strabo,  writing  in  the  time  of  Augustus,  describes 
its  slopes  as  covered  with  beautiful  meadows,  the  summit  alone 
being  barren,  and  having  the  appearance  of  once  having 
burned.  In  the  reign  of  Nero,  a.d.  63,  the  volcanic  character 
of  the  mountain  was  indicated  by  an  earthquake,  which 
seriously  damaged  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum.  The  first 
recorded  outbreak  of  lava  occurred  in  a.d.  79,  when  the 
country  around  was  destroyed  by  showers  of  ashes  and  streams 
of  lava,  and  the  peak  now  called  Vesuvius  was  first  formed. 
The  entire  destruction  of  Pompeii,  Herculaneum,  and  other 
towns  near,  occurred  at  this  time  {see  p.  93).  The  Elder 
Pliny,  who  commanded  a  Roman  fleet  at  Misenum,  landed  at 


88  NAPLES. 

Castellaminare  for  the  purpose  of  observation,  and  also  to 
assist  those  who  were  ruined  by  the  eruption,  and  fell  a  victim 
to  his  thirst  for  knowledge.  The  letters  of  his  nephew,  Pliny 
the  Younger,  describing  the  eruption,  are  among  the  most 
remarkable  examples  of  Roman  literature.  A  severe  eruption, 
which  occurred  in  a.d.  222,  was  described  in  similar  terms  by 
Diodorus  Cassius.  Since  then  eruptions  have  taken  place 
more  or  less  down  to  the  present  day. 

Up  to  the  year  1500  nine  eruptions  were  recorded  ;  since 
then  no  less  than  fifty  have  taken  place.  One  of  the  most 
nnportant  occurred  in  1631.  Stones  of  many  tons  weight 
were  thrown  to  a  distance  of  some  miles,  and  the  day,  as  far 
as  Naples,  was  darkened  by  smoke  and  showers  of  ashes.  No 
less  than  three  thousand  persons  perished.  In  1707  Vesuvius 
was  in  eruption  from  May  until  August,  to  the  great  alarm  of 
the  Neapolitans.  Further  outbreaks  occurred  m  1737,  1760, 
and  1767  ;  in  1794  a  stream  of  lava  ran  down  to  the  sea  at 
Torre  del  Greco,  making  the  water  hiss.  During  the  last 
century  the  most  important  outbreak  was  in  December,  1861. 
This  eruption  has  been  described  by  Humboldt.  In  1872 
another  great  eruption  occurred,  which  caused  damage 
estimated  at  several  million  lire,  and  destroyed  many  lives. 
Since  then  there  have  been  outbreaks  in  1891,  1895,  1900, 
1904,  and  in  April,  1906,  occurred  one  of  the  greatest 
eruptions  of  modern  times. 

Torre  del  Qreco  is  a  town  of  35,000  inhabitants, 
flourishing,  lively,  and  unconcerned,  though  the  smoke  of 
Vesuvius  daily  floats  over  it.  It  is  built  of  lava,  and  upon  the 
lava  stream  that  in  1631  destroyed  two-thirds  of  the  town. 
Three  times  since  it  has  been  destroyed  by  eruptions  ;  once 
it  was  rocked  and  swayed,  and  broken  and  crushed  like  a  toy 
in  the  hand  of  a  giant ;  at  another  time  eleven  openings  were 
formed  above  the  town,  from  whence  a  deluge  of  ashes  poured 
on  it,  and  at  the  same  time  the  shore  in  the  neighbourhood 
was  upheaved  to  the  extent  of  three  feet,  causing  great 
destruction  of  life  and  property.  Traces  of  similar  catastrophes 
exist  all  the  way  to  Torre  dell'  Annunziata.  The  eruption  of 
1906  did  not  do  much  damage  here.  The  Monastery  of 
Camaldoli,  (p.  66)  on  an  isolated  peak  on  the  slopes  of 
Vesuvius,  commands  a  fine  panorama. 

Torre  Annunziata  (pop.  about  25,000)  has  pretty  views  of 
the  bay ;  mineral  water,  macaroni  manufactories,  etc. 


NAPLES    TO    POMPKII.  89 


NAPLES  TO  POMPEII. 

Excursions  leave  Cook's  Office,   Naples,   every  week-day 
except    Thursdays   and    Government    holidays,    for   Pompeii. 

Excursions  are  al'^o  arranged  for  Cava  dei  Tirreni,  Salerno, 
Paestum,  Amalfi,  Sorrento,  Castellammare,  Capri,  etc. 
Particulars  of  fares — according  to  number  in  party — -may  be 
obtained  from  Cook's  Office  in  Naples,  Oalleria  Vittoria,  Via 
Chiatamone. 

By  Rail. 

Tourists  who  are  pressed  for  time  can  accomplish  the 
fifteen  miles  between  Naples  and  Pompeii  in  about  an 
hour  by  the  railway,  which  affords  fine  views  of  the  bay. 
The  stations  passed  are  San  Giovaii/ii  a  Teduccio  Portici, 
Torre  del  Greco,  Torre  A/i/i//?iziata  Cifta,  and  Torre 
Anniinziata  Centrale.  Here  the  branch  to  Castellammare 
{see  p.  125)  follows  the  coast,  whilst  the  line  to  Salerno  and 
Eboli  turns  inland  ;  Fompeii  is  the  next  station  on  the  latter. 
Notice  the  cuttings  through  huge  lava  streams  near  Torre  del 
Greco. 

By  Road. 

The  road  from  Nnples  to  Pompeii  runs  very  near  the 
railway,  passing  several  places  of  interest  as  it  rounds  the 
foot  of  Vesuvius.  We  first  reach  Portici,  with  its  palace 
beautifully  situated.  Its  art  treasures,  etc.,  have  been  removed 
to  Naples.  Resina  is  built  on  the  lava  stream  above 
Herculaneum.  Numerous  country  residences  are  situated 
here  ;  notice  especially  La  Favorita,  once  the  property  of  the 
Prince  of  Salerno,  and  of  H.H.  Ismail  Pasha,  late  Khedive  of 
Egypt. 

Herculaneum  lies  buried  a  hundred  feet  and  more 
below  Resina.  The  remains  of  the  town  were  greatly 
injured  by  carelessness  in  excavating,  and  there  is  really 
very  little  now  to  see,  but  no  doubt  interesting  discoveries  will 
be  made  in  the  future.  A  number  of  statues,  inscriptions,  etc., 
are  now  in  the  Naples  Museum.  The  Theatre  is  reached  by 
a  descent  of  about  a  hundred  steps  ;  and  shown  by  candles, 
etc.  Herculaneum  is  far  more  interesting  to  read  about  than 
to  see,  while  Pompeii  is  a  thousand  times  more  intrresting 
to  see  than  to  read  about. 


90  NAPLES. 

Herculaneuni,  whose  origin  the  Greeks  ascribed  to  Her- 
cules, was  successively  an  Oscan,  Tyrrhenian,  Pelargian, 
Samnite,  and  Roman  city.  It  was  overwhelmed  by  showers 
of  volcanic  mud,  79  B.C.,  and  subsequent  eruptions  deposited 
thick  strata  above  it,  and  the  very  site  was  unknown  till 
accidentally  discovered  in  17  19. 

The  road  skirts  the  great  lava  streams  of  1794,  through 
Torre  del  Greco,  in  view  of  the  destruction  caused  by  the 
eruption  of  December,  1S61,  then  more  lava  to  Torre  An- 
nunziata,  and,  turning  to  the  left,  reaches  Pompeii. 

POMPEII. 

Its  Early  History. 

Of  the  early  history  of  Pompeii  but  little  is  known. 
Hercules  is  said  to  have  founded  both  it  and  Herculaneum. 
The  first  direct  historical  notice  of  the  city  is  310  B.C.;  but 
it  must  have  had  an  existence  long  before  that  date,  and  those 
who  have  carefully  studied  its  remains  declare  their  conviction 
that  some  of  its  important  buildings  date  from  the  6th  cen- 
tury B.C.  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum  are  said  by  Strabo  to 
have  been  originally  possessed  by  the  Oscans,  then  by  the 
Tyrrhenians  (Etrusci) ;  they  then  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
Greek  colonies  of  (Jumse  and  Parthenope,  and  finally  into 
those  of  the  Samnites,  who  made  themselves  masters  of  the 
Campagna  440  B.C.  Eighty  years  later  the  cities  of  Cam- 
pagna  threw  off  the  yoke  of  the  Samnites  and  placed  themselves 
under  the  protection  of  Rome.  Nothing  of  importance  is 
known  of  the  city  until  90  B.C.,  when  in  the  Social  War  it 
joined  the  Marsian  confederacy.  From  this  time  to  the  period 
of  its  destruction  it  was,  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  a  Roman 
city,  much  visited  by  emperors  and  nobles,  and  celebrated  for 
its  baths,  its  gladiatorial  displays,  and,  above  all,  for  its 
magnificent  situation. 

Pompeii  before  the  Eruption. 

Looking  from  the  quay  of  Sta.  Lucia  towards  Vesuvius,  one 
would  suppose  that  Naples  extended  without  interruption  the 
whole  length  of  the  coast.  Distance  alone  produces  this 
illusion.  This  long  line  of  houses,  which  appear  only  as  a 
suburb  of  Naples,  is  composed  of  a  number  of  towns  and 
villages,   viz.  :    Portici,   Resina,   Torre  del  Greco,  Torre  dell' 


POMPEII.  91 

Annunziata,  Castellammare  and  Sorrento.  During  the  first 
century  of  our  era,  under  the  Roman  Emperors,  all  these  same 
appearances  existed.  The  coast  of  Naples  offered  to  the  eye 
the  same  enchantments,  to  the  mind  the  same  languor,  and  to 
maritime  commerce  the  same  advantages.  An  active  and 
numerous  population,  occupied  either  with  business  or  pleasure, 
hurried  along  this  narrow  shore.  The  towns  or  villages  had 
not  then  the  same  names  as  now,  with  the  exception  of  Naples 
and  Sorrento  (Neapolis  and  Sorrentum)  ;  Resina  was  called 
Herculaneum,  Torre  dell'  Annunziata  was  then  Aplonte,  and 
Castellammare  was  called  Stabile.  There  was  on  the  sea-shore 
another  city  of  great  importance,  whose  name  has  neither  been 
altered  nor  preserved,  for  it  has,  during  fifteen  centuries,  been 
effaced  from  history — this  is  Pompeii.  Naples  was  not  then, 
as  it  is  now,  a  city  of  nearly  a  million  population.  It  was  a  city 
of  pleasure  and  amusement  for  the  Romans.  Its  port,  not 
much  frequented,  was  of  less  importance  than  that  of  Hercu- 
laneum, and  still  less  than  that  of  Pompeii,  which,  according 
to  all  appearance,  was  the  great  commercial  port  of  one  part  of 
Italy.  It  served  as  the  e?itrepdt  for  merchandise  at  Nola, 
Nocera  and  Atella.  Its  port,  situated  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  town,  was  very  spacious,  sufficiently  so  to  receive  a  naval 
army,  for  it  sheltered  the  entire  fleet  of  Cornelius.  Pompeii 
was  under  Roman  rule,  but  was  not  much  burdened  with  its 
yoke.  The  city  only  had  to  pay  a  tribute  of  men  in  case  of 
war.  In  consideration  of  this  service  she  governed  herself, 
having  her  own  senate  and  magistrates.  It  was  through  these 
favourable  conditions  that  Pompeii  enjoyed  such  great  pros- 
perity.    The  population  at  that  time  exceeded  30,000. 

The  appearance  of  the  cities  by  the  side  of  the  bay,  at  the 
foot  of  Vesuvius,  may  have  been  much  the  same  then  as  now. 
But  Vesuvius  as  we  now  know  it,  with  its  immense  cone  and 
smoking  summit,  did  not  then  exist.  There  was  in  its  place  a 
mountain  called  La  Sonima,  whose  height  was  not  much  more 
than  half  that  of  the  present  Vesuvius.  La  Somma  had  not 
the  gloom  of  the  burning  mountain,  which  now  seems  suspended 
as  an  eternal  menace  to  the  inhabitants  round  Naples.  It  was 
a  rural  and  charming  mountain,  wooded  from  its  base  to  near 
the  top.  The  merchants  of  Pompeii,  Herculaneum  and  Naples 
used  to  spend  here  their  leisure  time,  and  many  wealthy 
Romans  from  all  parts  of  Italy  had  country  houses  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  La  Somma.  Cicero  did  not  fail  to  build 
one  there,  although  he  had  chateaux  at  many  other  places. 


92  NAPLES. 

Nothing,  indeed,  forewarned   the  inhabitants   nnind  Naples  uf 
the   catastrophe  which  threatened  them.     Truly  applicable  to 
them  were   the  famous  words  of  JM.  Salvandy,  ''They  danced 
over   a  volcano."     It   is  true  Strabo  and  other  ancient  writers 
had  said  that  in  times  past  La  Somma  had  been  the  theatre  of 
volcanic  eruption.     But   the  Romans   held  their  scholars  too 
much    at   a  distance    to    trouble  themselves  about   what    the 
ancient  authors  had  written  ;  geology  as  a  science  did  not  then 
exist,  and   the   Pompeians   would   have  been  much  puzzled  to 
distinguish  a   volcanic  from  a  calcareous  rock.     Although  at 
the  gates  of  Naples  were  seen  the  "  Burning  Fields,"  covered 
with   volcanic   eruption,  and  the  Solfatara  of  Pozzuoli  smoking 
to   no   small  extent,  no   one  had  the  least  fear.     They  did  not 
wish  to  consider  La  Somma  a  volcano.     The  poet  sang  of  it  as 
the  source  from  whence  the  gods  made  a  luscious  wine  to  flow, 
as  a  perfumed  present  to  that  blessed  land.     However,  in  the 
year  a.d.'63,   the  inhabitants   of   Pompeii  received  from  the 
mountain     their    first    warning.      In    that    year    Pompeii    was 
fearfully    shaken    by    an    earthquake.     The  palace  of  justice, 
the  colonnade  of  the  forum,  the  tragic  and  comic  theatres, 
with    several   temples   and    houses,  w^ere   overthrown    by   the 
convulsions   of  the   earth.     Half   the  population,  struck   with 
terror,  left  the  city,  taking  with  them  their  valuables,  furniture 
and  statues.     This  earthquake  was  also  felt  at  Naples  and  at 
Nocera.     Seneca  says  that  at  Nocera  there  did  not  remain  a 
single   house  standing,  and   that  nearly  all  the  inhabitants  lost 
their  lives  or  their  reason.     At  Naples,  when  this  catastrophe 
happened,  the  people  w-ere  assembled  to  hear  Nero  himself 
execute  the  famous  cantata  which  he  had  composed ;  a  choir 
of  five  hundred  persons  accompanied  the  voice  of  the  tyrant. 
Nero  did    not    wish  the  music  to  be  interrupted,  and   would 
not  allow  the  crowd  to  go  out  until  the  singing  was  finished. 
This  warning,    notwithstanding    its    gravity,    was    lost    on  the 
Pompeians  ;  the  Senate,  after  having  hesitated  for  some  time, 
decided    to    order    the     reconstruction    of    the    city.      They 
wished  this  rebuilding  to  be  thorough.     Artists  were  brought 
from  every  corner  of  Italy  to  compete  in  the   embellishment 
of  the   repopulated   city.      The  basilica,   the   forum   and  the 
temples    were    remodelled,    and    ornamented    with  capitals  in 
the    new    fashion  ;  that    is    to  say,   in  the  Corinthian    Roman 
Order.     The  interiors  of  the  houses  were  covered  with  paintings 
executed    upon    excellent    stucco,   and   represented    the    best 
compositions  of  Greek  and  Roman  art.     Statues  of  marble  and 


POMPEII.  93 

bronze  adorned  the  atrium,  the  dining  rooms  and  the  chambers 
of  each  house.  Fountains,  ornamented  with  groups  of  pure 
marble,  were  placed  in  the  interior  courtyards.  Luxury  and 
taste  were  everywhere  exercised  to  embellish  the  new  city. 

With  the  rebuilding  of  the  temples,  work  and  pleasure  again 
revived;  domestic  duties  resumed  their  accustomed  course  in 
the  houses  enlivened  with  new  paintings,  until  in  the  year 
A.D.  79  came  the  disastrous  eruption  which  brought  Pompeii  to 
utter  ruin. 

The  Eruption 

"On  the  23rd  of  August,  a.d.  79,  at  about  2  o'clock  p.m., 
the  inhabitants  at  tiie  foot  of  the  mountain  were  alaimed  by 
terrible  sounds  from  the  depth  of  La  Somma.  During  the 
preceding  days  several  shocks  of  earthquake  had  caused  some 
uneasiness  over  a  large  expanse  of  the  surrounding  country. 
The  sky  was  serene,  the  sea  calm.  The  wind,  which  blew  at 
first  from  the  north,  fixed  afterwards  in  the  east.  The  noise 
redoubled  in  violence ;  and  then  an  enormous  column  of 
watery  vapour,  which  has  been  compared  by  Pliny  the  Younger 
to  the  trunk  and  branches  of  a  pine  tree,  crowned  the  mountain 
with  its  dismal  plume.  This  formidable  cloud,  coming  from 
the  bowels  of  the  earth,  gradually  enlarged.  L  remained  some 
time  suspended  in  the  air,  motionless.  Then  still  enlarging, 
the  vapour  condensed  and  fell  in  boiling  rain  on  the  sides  of 
the  mountain,  from  whence  it  went  to  the  sea.  Herculaneum, 
situated  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  between  it  and  the  sea, 
came  in  the  way  of  this  terrible  torrent  of  mud.  At  the  same 
lime  the  mountain,  opening  all  its  abysses,  threw  out  a  frightful 
mass  of  burning  stones  and  earth  calcined  by  the  fire.  All  this 
beat  upon  Herculaneum. 

"  We  will  leave  to  others  the  task  of  describing  the  scenes 
of  terror,  of  confusion,  and  of  death  which  prevailed  in  the 
thick  darkness  which  enveloped  this  city,  whilst  the  cataracts 
of  earth  and  sky  opened  to  devour  them.  The  innabitants  of 
Herculaneum  fled,  some  to  Naples  and  some  to  Pompeii. 
Those  who  sought  the  former  place  only  were  rightly  inspired, 
for  Naples  tlid  not  suffer  any  harm,  but  Pompeii  shared  the 
fate  of  Herculaneum. 

"  Until  the  evening  it  was  believed  that  Pompeii  would  be 
spared,  but  towards  eight  o'clock  the  eruption  of  La  Somma 
redoubled  in  violence.  The  electric  detonations  did  not  cease 
lo  resound  in  the  depths  of  the  mountain,  as  the  watery  vapour 


94  NAPLES. 

escaped.  Succeeding  the  burning  vapours  was  a  fearful  mass 
of  pumice-stones,  red  with  fire.  All  around,  the  mountain  was 
covered  with  the  dark  cloud  of  these  stones,  which,  striking 
against  each  other  in  the  air,  caused  a  fearful  noise.  This 
mineral  rain  beat  upon  Pompeii.  The  hour-glass  that  was 
found  turned  over  at  Pompeii  points  to  two  hours  after 
midnight.  It  was  therefore  in  the  middle  of  the  night  that 
this  disaster  fell  upon  the  unfortunate  city.  This  night  seemed 
eternal.  No  one  saw  the  sun  rise  on  the  morrow,  for  the 
cloud  of  earth  and  /apilli,  which  fell  without  ceasing,  darkened 
the  sky,  and  prevented  their  knowing  the  arrival  of  the  day. 
The  town  of  Pompeii  was  a  scene  of  horror,  better  iuiagined 
than  described. 

"  On  the  24th  of  August,  the  day  after  the  destruction  ol 
Herculaneum  and  Pompeii,  Stabies  was  in  its  turn  attacked 
by  this  fearful  cloud,  which  carried  with  it  fire  and  death. 
Vesuvius  finished  the  work  which  the  conquerors  Sylla  had 
commenced,  only  the  volcano  went  further — it  effaced  even 
the  situation  of  the  town.  The  air  was  so  thick,  that  at  seven 
leagues  from  the  volcano  it  was  almost  stifling.  Ihey  say 
that  it  extended  as  far  as  Africa.  At  least  it  reached  Rome, 
and  made  it  quite  dark.  The  Romans  said  to  each  other 
'  The  end  of  the  world  is  come !  the  sun  is  going  to  fall  to  the 
earth,  or  the  earth  mount  up  and  be  set  on  fire  by  the 
heavens.'  Pliny  wrote,  '  What  mournfully  consoled  us  was 
the  thought  that  the  whole  universe  was  perishing  with  our- 
selves.' 

"  During  these  two  terrible  days  seven  cities  or  towns 
ceased  to  exist — Herculaneum  and  its  port  Resina,  Aplonte, 
Tagianum,  Taurania,  Pompeii,  and  Stabies." 

It  was  a  wonderful  piece  of  good  fortune  that  the  catas- 
trophe should  have  been  witnessed  by  one  who  had  the  power 
to  describe  it  graphically,  and  the  reader  is  referred  for  further 
details  to  the  two  letters  written  by  Pliny  the  Younger  to 
Tacitus,  in  which  he  describes  the  intrepidity  and  death  of  his 
uncle,  who  perished  in  the  catastrophe. 

How  the  Cities  were   Buried. 

"  We  have  no  positive  details  of  the  circumstances  which 
preceded  and  accompanied  the  eruption  of  La  Somma,  and 
which  formed  the  cone  of  tufa  and  pumice-stone  composing 
the    present  Vesuvius,  and   buried  under  stones  and    earthy 


POMPEII.  95 

dust  these  cities  of  Campania.     The  houses  of  Herculaneum 
and  all  objects  contained  in  them  are  covered  with  an  earthy 
crust,  hard  and  compact,  which  can  only  be  removed  by  means 
of  the  chisel.     There  is  preserved  in  the  Museum  at  Naples,  as 
an  instructive  curiosity,  an  iron  stewpan  partly  extricated  from 
its   earthy  covering.     It  can  only  be  removed  by  means   of  a 
hammer  and   chisel.     This  example   is   sufificient  to   show  the 
difficulty,  or  rather  the  impossibility,  of  laying  open  the  whole 
of  Herculaneum  and   extricating  the  objects   it   contains,  the 
town  being  now  covered  with  earth  to  the  depth  of  20  metres. 
It  is   not  lava,  as   so  many  have   sjid,  which  encrusts    Hercu- 
laneum, but  an   entirely  earthy  formation   mixed  with  pumice, 
in  substance  like  that  which  forms  the  cone   of  Vesuvius.     It 
must    therefore    be    admitted    that     Herculaneum    was     not 
destroyed  by  a  stream  of  volcanic  lava,  for  Vesuvius  did  not 
pour    out    any    lava    during    the    eruption    of    79,   but    it    was 
drowned  in   a   stream   of  mud.     Vesuvius   at   first   cast  out  a 
watery   vapour,  and   then   there   mingled  with   it  an   immense 
mass   of  earthy   matter,  sand,  and   pumice-stone.     The   water, 
condensing   in   the  air,  fell  in  the   form  of  boiling  ram  on  the 
sides   of  the   mountain,  and  drew  with   it   great  quantities   of 
earthy   materials.     It   thus  formed    a  torrent   of  mud,    which 
beating  upon  the  city  submerged  it.     Of  this  mud,  dried  by  the 
air,  and  still  more  condensed   by  the  weight  of  the  earth  and 
real  lava  which  have  been  cast  out  by  other  eruptions,  has  been 
formed    the    hard    crust    which    now    envelops    Herculaneum. 
With  Pompeii  it  was  different.     On  witnessing  the  marvellous 
and    easy    work    of    clearing    this    city,    one    can    understand 
perfectly   well   how  it   was   entombed.      Everywhere  are  seen 
two  layers,  one  over  the  other.     One  layer   of  small  whitish 
pumice-stones,  called  at  Naples  lapilli ;  they  are  about  the  size 
of  a  pea  ;  and  above  these  is  a  layer  of  brown  dust,  exceedingly 
fine  and  movable.      Pompeii  was  not  then  either  covered  with 
the  lava,  as  later  so  many  villages  situated  near  the  volcano  have 
been,  or  drowned   by  a  stream  of  mud,  as   Herculaneum.      It 
was  buried  under   enormous  masses  of  lapilli  and  the  dust   of 
pumice-stones,  generally,  but  very  improperly,   called  cinders. 
The  intense  heat  of  these  lapilli  and  dust,  coming  red  hot  from 
theburningcrater,  carbonised  the  roofs  of  the  houses,  which  were 
made  of  wooden  l)eam.s,  and  then  forced  their  way  through  the 
ceilings.     The  houses  were  by  degrees  entirely  filled  up  by  the 
incessant  fall  of  the  volcanic  dust." 


0  NAPLES. 


Excavations  at  Pompeii. 

The  city  was  completely  buried,  and  lay  beneath  a  mass  of 
materials  from  lo  to  20  feet  deep.  The  face  of  the  country  all 
around  was  altered,  the  shape  of  the  mountain  was  changed, 
but  Pompeii  was  not  forgotten.  The  Emperor  Titus  contem- 
plated its  rebuilding,  but  abandoned  the  project.  Italian 
authors,  from  1488-1556,  referred  to  it,  and  even  indicated  the 
supposed  site  of  the  city.  A  Roman  architect,  Domenico 
Fontana,  constructed,  in  1592,  a  subterranean  canal  under  the 
very  site  of  Pompeii,  from  the  Sarno  to  Torre  dell'  Annunziata, 
and  met  with  many  memorials  of  the  ruined  city ;  but  there 
was  no  earnest  spirit  of  scientific  research  in  those  days,  and 
no  attempts  were  made  to  carry  investigation  further.  It  was 
not  till  the  reign  of  Charles  III.  (1748),  the  first  Bourbon  king 
of  Naples,  that  the  work  of  excavation  commenced.  Hercu- 
laneum  had  already  been  identified,  and  the  attention  of 
scientific  men  was  being  directed  to  the  subject  of  excavations, 
when  a  peasant  alighted  upon  a  house  containing  statues  and 
bronze  utensils.  Charles  III.  entrusted  one  Don  Roca 
Alcubierre,  a  Spanish  officer  of  engineers,  to  commence  the 
work  of  disentombment. 

He  commenced  at  what  is  now  called  the  Street  of  P^ortuna. 
First  a  fine  fresco  was  found,  then  a  helmet,  then  coins;  and 
the  work  proceeded  so  rapidly  that  by  the  end  of  the  year  the 
amphitheatre  was  laid  bare.  From  that  time  to  the  present, 
with  the  exception  of  a  few  year.s,  the  work  has  been  continued 
— at  first  slowly — so  that  at  the  end  of  a  century  only  one- 
third  of  the  city  was  disclosed.  And  fortunately  so,  for  the 
spirit  in  which  the  work  was  done  was  rather  that  of  the 
Vandal  than  the  archsologist. 

With  the  changes  of  i860  came  a  change  in  the  manage- 
ment of  the  excavations  at  Pompeii.  The  Cavaliere  Giuseppe 
Fiorelli,  a  profound  scholar  and  antiquary,  was  entrusted  with 
the  superintendence  of  affairs.  Since  his  appointment,  every 
year  has  seen  most  important  and  satisfactory  results,  and  now 
the  tourist  can  walk  from  one  end  of  the  city  to  the  other. 
The  picture  of  an  old  Roman  town  is  marvellously  vivid ;  and 
its  shops,  streets,  and  alleys,  its  forum,  baths,  and  amphitheatre, 
its  costly  houses,  works  of  art,  and  tombs — all  are  laid  bare, 
and  the  dead  city  lives  again. 


POMPEII.  97 

The  traveller  will  not  care  for  a  lengthy  history  of  Pompeii. 
Nor  in  the  following  description  will  it  be  desirable  to  give 
more  than  an  outline  of  the  principal  things  to  be  seen, 
together  with  such  condensed  information  as  may  lend  an 
interest  to  their  inspection. 

Pompeii,  once  seen,  will  never  be  forgotten  by  the  tourist ; 
and,  with  the  buried  city  in  his  mind's  eye,  he  will  read  the 
descriptions  of  standard  authors  with  a  keen  appreciation.  Of 
the  many  works  on  the  subject,  Overbeck's  "Pompeji," 
Dr.  Dyer's  "  Ruins  of  Pompeii,"  and  Sir  W.  Gell's 
"  Pompeiana,"  are  the  best  and  most  exhaustive.  No  book  of 
fiction  can  interest  the  tourist  who  lingers  in  the  neighbourhood 
more  than  Lytton's  "  Last  Days  of  Pompeii." 

Almost  all  the  antiquities,  objects  of  art,  and  the  most 
important  frescoes  recovered  from  the  excavations  have  been 
transferred  to  the  Museum  at  Naples  {see  p.  36),  but  at 
Pompeii  a  small  Museum  has  been  established  near  the  Porta 
delta  Marifia,  the  contents  arranged  in  three  rooms. 

A  local  hotel-keeper  has  laid  bare  the  remains  of  a  large 
villa,  containing  a  dining-room  decorated  with  valuable  frescoes, 
with  figures  of  exquisite  workmanship. 

The  following  interesting  passage  from  an  article  in  the 
Qtiarterly  Review  will  indicate  one  aspect  in  which  the 
traveller  will  find  .special  interest  in  viewing  the  ruins  : — 

"  Nothing  conveys  a  loftier  conception  of  the  grandeur, 
might,  wealth  and  civilisation  of  the  Roman  empire  at  its  most 
flourishing  period  than  the  remains  of  its  provincial  towns,  and 
especially  of  its  colonial  cities.  It  is  not  the  public  edifices  of 
Rome  herself,  uneciualled  as  they  are  for  vastness  and 
magnificence,  which  impress  us  most  with  her  former  power. 
They  are  such  monuments  as  we  might  expect  from  those  who 
peopled  the  capital  of  the  world.  But  it  is  the  third  or  fourth 
class  town,  such  as  Pompeii,  with  its  two  theatres,  its  amphi- 
theatre, its  temples,  its  basilica,  and  its  forum — all  upon  a 
scale  of  singular  splendour,  adorned  with  hundreds  of  statues 
in  bronze  and  marble,  with  exquisite  paintings,  and  with  the 
most  precious  marbles  .  .  .  that  fills  our  minds  with  wonder, 
and  enables  us  to  form  some  conception  of  the  greatness  and 
power  (jf  that  mighty  people." 


gS  NAl'LES. 

Pompeii. 

[Hotels — see  p.   iii.] 

Admission  on  Sunday  gratis — other  days  5  1.,  including 
services  of  an  official  guide.*  Amphitheatre  (see  p.  121),  50  c. 
extra.  A  number  of  the  houses  are  locked,  but  opened  on 
application  ;  no  extra  payment.  English  or  French  speaking 
guides  can  be  engaged  at  the  entrance  at  a  charge  of  3  lire  ptr 
hour.  On  Thursday  the  closed  hou.-es  and  public  buildings 
cannot  be  visited.  Visitors  are  admitted  from  8  a.m.  till  6  p.m. 
June-August,  in  September  till  5  p.m.,  in  the  winter  till  4  p.m., 
the  afternoon  being  the  quietest  time  for  a  comfortable 
inspection  of  the  ruins. 

The  quickest  and  cheapest  way  to  reach  Pompeii  is  by  rail- 
way from  Naples.     Trains  run  frequently. 

The  drive  from  Naples  is  interesting,  but  very  long  and 
fatiguing,  passing  Portici,  Resina,  Torre  del  Greco,  Herculaneum 
etc.  (p.  89).  A  bargain  should  be  made  with  the  driver,  who 
should  also  be  instructed  to  set  down  the  passengers  at  the 
Porta  della  Marina,  and  wait  for  them  at  the  Amphitheatre,  or 
the  Street  of  the  Tombs. 

The  following  description  commences  at  the  Porta  della 
Marina,  near  the  Forum,  and  terminates  with  the  Street  of  the 
Tombs. 

At  least  three  to  four  hours  should  be  devoted  to  the  visit, 
which  should  be  repeated  as  often  as  time  and  opportunity 
permit. 

Tourists  are  recoinmer.ded  to  visit  the  National  Museum  at 
Naples  (p.  36)  before  visiting  Pompeii. 


Starting  from  the  Porta  della  Marina,  the  fust  visit  is  to 
a  small  Museum,  which  contains  vases,  amphorte  in  terra-cotta, 
bronze  vessels,  carbonised  food,  skeletons,  casts  of  men  and 
women,  arranged  in  three  rooms — entrance  free — then  a  steep 
street,  the  Via  Marina,  leads  to 

*  The  ruins  are  closed  to  visitors  on  New  Year's  Day,  Easter  Sunday, 
the  first  Sunday  in  June,  Corpus  Christi,  September  8th  and  20th,  first 
Sunday  in  October,  December  8lh  and  Christmas  Day. 


POMPEII.  99 

The  Forum. 

The  principal  streets  of  Poinp.eii  (six  in  number)  led  up  to 
the  Forum,  which  was,  as  in  every  Roman  city,  the  centre  of 
all  the  life  of  the  place.  It  is  surrounded  on  three  sides  by 
Doric  columns  of  limestone,  12  feet  high.  Above  this  colon- 
nade there  was  formerly  a  gallery.  The  area,  530  feet  long  by 
112  feet  broad,  is  paved  with  large  slabs  of  stone.  Twenty-two 
ornamented  pedestals  for  statues  adorned  the  area,  and  the 
effect  must  have  been  imposing.  The  statues  were  in  honour 
of  Emperors  and  Pompeian  citizens,  and  some  still  bear  dedi 
catory  inscriptions. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  Forum  is  the 

Temple  of  Apollo, 

the  patron  goddess  of  Pompeii,  the  largest  and  finest  Temple 
in  the  city,  an  edifice  of  early  origin,  but  restored  after  the 
earthquake  of  a.d.  63.  It  stands  on  an  elevated  basement,  in 
an  open  area,  and  is  approached  by  a  flight  of  steps.  Sur- 
rounding it  was  a  peristyle  of  forty-eight  columns,  forming  a 
portico  or  arcade.  These  columns  were  originally  Ionic,  but 
were  badly  altered  into  Corinthian.  In  one  of  them  there  is  a 
perforation  made  to  receive  a  jjipe,  through  which  the  water  for 
the  sacrifices  flowed  into  a  basin  placed  on  a  fluted  pedestal. 

In  front  of  the  steps  stands  an  altar.  This  altar  was  not 
adapted,  some  authorities  contend,  for  sacrifices  of  blood,  but 
only  for  the  usual  offerings  to  Venus — fruit,  incense,  and  flowers. 
On  the  east  and  west  sides  of  the  altar  is  an  inscription,  re- 
cording the  fact  that  the  Quatuor  Viri  erected  it  at  their  own 
expense.  On  the  walls  under  the  colonnade  were  paintings  in 
bright  colours  of  dwarfs,  pigmies,  dancers,  etc.  Within  the 
cella,  the  admirable  fresco  of  Bacchus  and  Silenus  was  found. 
In  the  vestibule  of  the  temple  was  found  a  much-mutilated 
statue  of  Venus,  which  by  some  has  been  considered  to  i)ear  a 
faint  resemblance  in  expression  to  the  Medicean  Venus. 

To  the  north  of  the  Forum  is  the 

Temple  of  Jupiter, 

raised  upon  a  basement  10  feet  high,  and,  like  the  Temple 
of  the  Capitoline  Jove  at  Rome,  it  dominated  the  whole 
city.  The  entrance  is  approached  l)y  a  flight  of  fifteen  steps, 
and  the  facade  is  embellished  with  six  columns  in  front  and 

H 


100  NAPLES. 

three  on  either  side,  of  fluted  Corinthian  pattern.  In  the 
interior  a  row  of  pillars  runs  on  each  side  the  cella  (nave), 
which  was  probably  open  above.  The  interior  was  painted 
chiefly  in  black  and  red ;  a  border  of  black  and  white  mosaic 
encloses  the  pavement.  The  temple  is  122  feet  long,  including 
the  approach.  Many  interesting  relics  were  discovered  here, 
particularly  the  colossal  head  of  the  god  whose  worship  was 
celebrated  in  this  place,  and  the  skeleton  of  a  man  crushed  by 
the  falling  of  a  column.  At  the  time  of  the  eruption  the  temple 
was  being  restored. 

The  Prison, 

adjoining  the  north-east  end  of  the  Forum,  is  approached  by  a 
low  arch  of  brick.  The  cells  are  narrow  and  dark  :  the  skeletons 
of  one  or  two  of  the  prisoners  were  found  here,  the  shackles 
still  encircling  their  leg  bones. 

Adjoining  the  prison  was  the  Public  Granary,  and  near 
here,  under  the  colonnade  of  the  Forum,  were  found  the 
Standard  Measures  for  grain,  wine,  and  oil.  The  originals 
are  in  the  Museum  (p.  45),  but  the  copies  in  the  recess  are 
accurate.  The  measures  for  grain  are  thick  horizontal  slabs  of 
stone  with  a  sliding  bottom,  which,  when  the  measure  was  full, 
could  be  pulled  out,  and  the  contents  dropped  into  a  sack 
beneath.  For  the  wine  and  oil,  tubes  were  provided  to  draw 
off  the  liquids. 

Close  to  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  are  two  Triumphal  Arches, 
or  rather  the  piers  and  part  of  the  columns  that  embellished 
them.  Statues  probably  stood  in  the  niches,  and  some 
apparatus  was  found  which  suggests  that  one  of  them  was  used 
as  a  fountain. 

At  the  north-east  of  the  Forum  is  the 


Temple  of  Augustus, 

or,  as  it  has  been  variously  called,  the  Pantheon,  the  Macellum 
and  the  House  of  the  Augustales.  The  use  to  which  this  temple 
was  put  is  not  clear ;  the  twelve  pedestals  round  the  altar 
suggest  that  it  was  a  Pantheon.  It  is  more  probable,  however, 
that  it  was  used  as  a  college  of  Augustales  (an  order  founded  by 
Augustus).  Whatever  its  use,  it  is  sacred  to  the  memory  of 
those  who  lived  well.  The  decorations,  the  shop,  the  kitchen, 
the  very  names  of  the  streets  surrounding  it,  all  suggest  that  the 


POMPEII.  lOI 

sacrifices  ofiered  here  were  celebrated  by  banquets.  The 
Pantheon  consisted  of  an  open  atnii»i  or  court,  120  feet  by  90 
feet,  in  which  was  the  altar,  surrounded  by  the  twelve  pedestals 
above  referred  to.  Behind  the  altar  was  a  niche,  in  which  was 
placed,  perhaps,  the  image  of  the  presiding  deity,  to  whom  an 
offering  might  be  made  on  entering.  The  paintings  on  the 
walls  have  been  wonderfully  preserved ;  the  best  are  Ulysses  and 
Penelope,  Theseus  and  .4^thra,  and  the  Muse  Thalia.  The 
porticoes  were  24  feet  in  depth  on  the  west  side,  and  were 
probably  roofed  with  timber.  On  the  south  are  twelve  small 
chambers  painted  in  red  panel,  supposed  to  have  been  the 
Chambers  of  the  Augustales,  and  above  them  there  was  evidently 
another  set  of  rooms.  The  court  is  paved  with  pebbles  em- 
bedded in  cement.  Many  curiosities  are  pointed  out  in  this 
temple,  such  as  the  gallery  used  by  the  orchestra,  the  refresh- 
ment bar,  the  porter's  ticket-office,  etc.  One  very  curious 
discovery  was  made  in  the  sink-hole  in  the  centre  of  the  court ; 
it  was  found  to  be  choked  up  with  fish-bones  and  articles  of 
food! 

It  should  be  noted  that  the  statues  of  Livia  and  Drusus, 
discovered  in  this  temple,  were  removed  to  the  Museum  at 
Naples,  and  are  here  replaced  by  copies  (p.  42). 

Adjoining  the  building  connected  with  the  Temple  of 
Augustus,  and  called  (whether  correctly  or  not  is  doubtful)  the 
Senaculum,  is  the 

Temple  of  Mercury  or  Vespasian,  or,  as  it  is  as  frequently 
called,  the  Temple  of  Quirinus  ;  the  first  name  is  derived  solely 
from  the  fact  that  certain  inscriptions  discovered  in  Pompeii 
referred  to  a  Temple  of  Mercury,  which  it  was  thought  should 
be  in  the  Forum.  The  last  appellation  is  derived  from  an 
inscription  found  in  the  Forum,  commemorating  the  achieve- 
ments of  Romulus,  and  his  deification  under  the  name  of 
Quirinus.  The  temple  is  an  irregular  quadrangle,  at  one  end 
of  which  is  a  sanctuary  with  a  pedestal  for  the  statue  of  the 
presiding  deity.  Many  relics  are  kept  in  this  temple,  as  vases, 
fetters,  wheels,  earthenware,  etc.  Special  attention  should  be 
given  to  the  white  marble  altar  in  the  centre  of  the  court. 
The  bas-reliefs  on  one  side  of  the  altar  represent  (foreground) 
the  celebration  of  a  sacrifice;  and  in  the  background  a  repre- 
sentation of  the  temple.  On  the  opposite  side  the  utensils 
employed  in  connection  with  the  sacrifice,  a  curious  illustration 
of  the  religious  rites  of  antiquity, 

H    2 


I02  NAPLES. 

The  Chaicidicum  (or  building  of  Eumachia,  or  Crypto- 
Portia/s),  erected  by  a  priestess  Eumachia  at  her  own  expense, 
is  in  the  form  of  a  basilica,  and  was  probably  used  as  a  cloth- 
market  or  exchange.  Over  the  entrance  from  the  Strada 
deir  Abbondanza  is  an  inscription  to  the  following  effect : 
"  Eumachia,  the  public  priestess,  daughter  of  Lucius,  in  her 
own  name  and  that  of  her  son,  M.  Numistrus  Fronto,  erected 
this  Chaicidicum  and  Crypto-Porticus  at  her  own  expense, 
and  dedicated  the  same  to  Concord  and  Piety."  There  are 
two  entrances  :  one,  as  already  mentioned,  from  the  Street  of 
Abundance,  and  the  other  from  the  Forum.  The  whole 
building  consists  of  a  hypcethriun,  or  open  court ;  a  portico 
adorned  with  forty-eight  marble  columns ;  a  chaicidicum,  or 
enclosed  apartment,  at  the  further  extremity ;  a  semicircular 
recess  at  the  end  containing  a  statue  of  Concord ;  and  a  crypto- 
porticus,  which  ran  round  three  sides  of  the  building.  It  was 
lighted  at  intervals  by  windows,  and  above  it  was  a  wooden 
gallery.  A  cornice  projected  from  the  gallery  into  the  area, 
sheltering  the  tables  on  which  the  fullers  and  cloth  merchants 
carried  on  their  sales.  In  a  niche  at  the  back  of  the  semi- 
circular recess  is  a  copy  of  the  Statue  of  Eumachia,  erected  by 
the  fullers  in  memory  of  their  benefactor.  The  original  has 
been  removed  to  Naples.     {See  p.  38.) 

Several  interesting  inscriptions  were  discovered  in  this 
building.  One  on  the  outer  wall  announced,  "The  gladia- 
torial troupe  of  Suettius  Curius,  the  asdile,  will  fight  at 
Pompeii  on  the  last  day  of  May.  There  will  be  a  chase 
of  wild  beasts  ivenatio)^  and  awnings  (vela)  to  protect  spectators 
from  the  sun." 

On  the  other  side  of  the  Street  of  Abundance  is  a 
corner  building,  which,  in  the  absence  of  other  informa- 
tion, has  been  called  the  School  of  Verna,  from  the  name 
of  Verna  having  been  found  in  an  inscription  supplicating 
for  himself  and  his  pupils  the  aid  of  Coelius  Capella,  the 
Duumvir  of  Justice. 

There  has  also  (1914)  been  found  in  this  street  a  crypto 
porticus,  decorated  with  a  frieze  of  paintings  representing 
scenes  from  the  Iliad. 

At  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Forum  are  three  halls 
of  nearly  equal  size,  which  have  been  called  the  Curiae, 
or  courts  where  cases  of  minor  importance  were  decided 
by  the  magistrates.     The  central  hall  is  called  the  /Grarium, 


I'OMPEII.  103 

or  Treasury,  from  the  fact  that  many  coins  were  dis- 
covered here.  Whatever  the  use  of  these  buildings  may 
have  been,  there  are  traces  to  show  that  they  must  have 
been  richly  decorated.  Adjoining  these  are  two  houses 
which  were  excavated  by  General  Championnet  while  in 
command  of  the  French  troops  in  occupation  of  Naples. 
They  are  called  the  Houses  of  Championnet  and  deserve 
inspection  on  account  of  the  elegance  of  their  decoration. 

Close     to     these     houses,    on     the    western    side    of    the 
Forum,   is 

The  Basilica. 

It  is  one  of  the  largest  buildings  in  Pompeii,  and  is  oblong, 
as  was  the  invariable  rule.  It  is  220  feet  long,  80  feet 
broad.  The  whole  of  the  central  space  was  roofed,  and  lighted 
by  openings  in  the  upper  part  of  the  side  walls.  Twenty-eight 
brick  columns  covered  with  stucco  supported  the  ceiling. 
At  one  end  of  the  peristyle  is  the  Praetors'  Tribunal,  a 
platform  six  to  seven  feet  high,  ascended  by  wooden  steps. 
Underneath  is  a  vault  supposed  to  have  been  used  as  a 
dungeon  for  the  accused.  Here,  as  elsewhere  in  Pompeii,  the 
vice  of  scribbling  upon  the  walls  is  traced.  In  this  instance,  to 
good  account,  as  an  inscription  shows  that  the  Basilica  was 
standing  in  the  year  that  Lepidus  and  Catulus  held  the  coni- 
mandership  (79  B.C.).  It  was  made  by  one  Pumidius  Dipilus, 
who  scratched  his  name  on  the  wall  in  that  year  thus  : — 

C.   PVMIDIVS  DIPILVS  HEIC   FVIT  ADV   NONAS 
OCTOBREIS  M.   LEPID  Q  CATVLCOS. 

Having  gone  round  the  Forum,  let  the  traveller  now  cri^ss 
from  the  Basilica  to  the  Chalcidicum,  and  enter  the  Strada 
dell'  Abbondanza  (Street  of  Abundance,  so  named  from 
a  fountain  with  head  and  cornucopia).  A  short  distance 
down  this  street  on  the  right  is  the 

House  of  the  Boar  Hunt,  so  named  from  a  mo.saic 
in  the  Prothyrum  representing  a  boar  attacked  by  two 
dogs.  The  peristyle  is  well  preserved,  and  has  fourteen 
Ionic  columns  with  their  capitals.  In  the  atrium  is  a 
mosaic,  the  border  of  which  represents  a  walled  city — perhaps 
Pompeii. 

Turning  to  the  right,  towards  the  unexcavated  part  of 
the  town — the  small  street  or  lane  is  called  the  Vicolo  dei 
Dodici  Dei — is  a  oaintinfif  on  a  wall,  representing  the  twelve 


104  NAPLES. 

great  divinities,  and  their  attributes.  It  is  not  in  good  con- 
dition. Returning  to  the  Strada  dell'  Abbondanza,  the 
second  turning  on  the  right  is  the  Street  of  the  Theatre, 
at  the  end  of  which  is  the 


Triangular  Forum, 

an  irregular  triangle,  flanked  on  the  east  and  west  sides  by 
a  Doric  colonnade,  450  feet  long  on  the  eastern  side,  and 
300  feet  on  the  western,  adorned  with  ninety  columns. 
The  third  side  had  no  portico,  and  was  probably  bordered 
with  shops.  From  the  eastern  side  there  were  three 
entrances  to  the  great  theatre.  Within  the  area  are  the  ruins 
of  a  sacred  edifice,  called  the 

Greek  Temple,  or  the  Temple  of  Hercules,  undoubtedly 
the  oldest  building  hitherto  discovered,  by  some  experts 
considered  to  date  as  far  back  as  800  B.C.  If  so,  it  must 
have  been  built  by  the  early  Greek  settlers.  Little  of  the 
edifice  remains,  but  it  is  clear  that  it  stood  on  a  basement, 
approached  by  five  steps.  It  was  120  feet  long,  and  70 
broad.  In  front  of  the  steps  is  an  enclosure,  in  which  it  is 
presumed  the  animals  to  be  offered  in  sacrifice  were  kept, 
and  beside  it  are  three  altars.  Close  by  are  the  remains  of 
a  small 

Circular  Temple,  with  eight  Doric  columns  covering  a 
pi/teal,  or  well.  This  is  generally  supposed  to  be  a  Bidental, 
or  locus  fulminatus — a  place  struck  by  lightning,  or  where 
a  thunderbolt  had  fallen.  Such  places  w^ere  sacred  to 
Pluto  and  infernal  deities,  and  were  held  in  great  awe  by 
the  ancient  Romans.  To  violate  its  precincts  was  sacrilege 
of  the  worst  kind.  At  the  south-west  angle  of  the  temple  is 
a  semicircular  seat,  so  placed  as  to  command  a  fine  view  of  the 
surrounding  country. 

The  Great  Theatre, 

to  which  there  were  three  entrances  from  the  eastern  side 
of  the  Triangular  Forum,  is  situated  on  the  southern  slope 
of  a  hill,  the  large  circular  corridor  surrounding  the  entire 
cavea  being  the  highest  part.  The  theatre  was  injured  by 
the  earthquake  a.d.  63,  and  an  inscription  shows  that  it 
w^as  restored   by    M.   Artorius,  at  the  cost  of  M.    Holconius 


POMPEII.  105 

Rufus.  It  is  curious  that  Pompeii  should  have  remained 
undiscovered  so  long,  for  it  is  certain  that  the  great  wall 
which  encloses  the  theatre  was  never  completely  buried. 
The  theatre  was  constructed  to  accommodate  5,000  spec- 
tators, and  in  the  palmy  days  of  the  city  it  must  have 
presented  a  gay  appearance,  with  its  marble  decorations, 
its  statues,  and  scenic  embellishments.  The  following  points 
may  be  observed  by  the  spectator  :  The  stage  is  long  and 
narrow,  and  in  front  of  it  may  still  be  seen  the  opening 
for  the  drop  scene.  At  the  back  of  the  stage  are  three 
doors  deeply  recessed,  and  behind  them  the  greenroom. 
In  the  wall  supporting  the  front  part  of  the  stage  are  recesses, 
which  may  have  been  occupied  by  the  musicians.  The  wall 
of  the  cavea  still  exhibits  the  lines  of  benches,  summa,  media, 
and  infima :  the  first  containing  five  tiers,  occupied  by  the 
chairs  of  the  nobility ;  the  second  occupied  by  middle  clas.ses 
(who  usually  brought  their  own  cushions  to  sit  upon),  con- 
taining twenty  tiers  ;  the  third  rank  contains  only  four  tiers. 
Staircases,  doors  for  entrance  and  exit,  and  corridors, 
leading  to  various  parts  of  the  theatre,  may  be  traced.  High 
above  all  is  the  women's  gallery,  for  in  ancient  theatres 
the  women  were  separated  from  the  men.  The  seats  were 
divided  into  compartments  or  boxes,  the  space  allotted  to 
each  lady  being  i  foot  3-^  inches.  In  the  wall  enclosing 
the  theatre  are  projecting  stone  rings^  which  formerly  received 
the  masts  of  the  velarium  or  awning,  used  as  a  protection 
from  the  sun. 

From  the  eastern  side  of  the  stage  a  covered    portico  led 
to  the  orchestra  of  the  small  theatre. 


The  Small  Theatre, 

although  inferior  in  decoration  and  construction  to  that  of 
the  great  theatre,  is  in  a  better  state  of  preservation.  Its 
general  plan  is  much  the  same,  although  the  form  of  the 
building  is  .somewhat  different.  It  is  supposed  to  have  been 
built  soon  after  the  Social  War,  and  an  inscription  to  the 
foUownig  effect  records  that  it  was  permanently  roofed  :  "Caius 
Quinctius  Valgus,  son  of  Caius,  and  Marcus  Porcius,  son 
of  Marcus,  Duumviri,  by  a  decree  of  the  Decurii,  let  out 
the  covered  theatre  to  be  erected  by  contract,  and  the  same 
approved  it." 


I06  NAPLES. 

The  scena,  the  front  wall  of  the  proscenium,  and  the 
pavement  of  the  orchestra,  were  in  various  coloured  marbles, 
and  an  inscription  announces  that  the  latter  was  the  gift  of 
M.  Oculatius  Verus,  son  of  Marcus,  Duumvir  for  the  games. 
The  number  of  spectators  who  could  be  accommodated 
with  seats  is  estimated  at  1,500.  At  the  back  of  the  two 
theatres  is  a  large  rectangular  enclosure,  which  has  been 
variously  called  the  School  of  the  Gladiators,  the  Forum 
Nundinarium,  or  weekly  market,  and  the 


Soldiers'   Barracks. 

It  is  still  doubtful  which  of  these  is  the  correct  designation, 
but  the  balance  of  evidence  is  in  favour  of  its  having  been  a 
Roman  garrison.  It  is  190  feet  long  by  160  broad,  surrounded 
by  a  colonnade  of  Doric  columns.  Around  the  colonnade 
are  recesses  where  provisions  were  sold.  There  are  also  rooms 
which  have  been  called  the  soldiers'  mess-room,  the  guard- 
room, etc.  Four  flights  of  stairs  led  to  the  upper  storey, 
which  has  been  called  the  officers'  quarters.  Among  these 
ruins  sixty-three  skeletons  were  discovered.  In  the  guard- 
room were  four  skeletons  wnth  their  legs  in  iron  stocks.  Under 
the  stairs  lay  the  skeleton  of  a  man  holding  a  silver  cup.  At 
the  entrance  gate  lay  thirty-four  skeletons  together.  When 
first  unearthed  the  building  contained  in  every  part  indications 
that  it  was  frequented  by  gladiators.  On  one  of  the  columns 
of  the  portico  was  found  the  name  Valerius,  followed  by  the 
figures  XX,  supposed  to  represent  the  number  of  his  victories. 
The  names  of  other  known  gladiators  were  also  found  inscribed 
on  the  inner  wall.  Many  valuable  articles,  the  majority  of 
which  were  of  a  military  character,  were  also  discovered  here. 
A  short  distance  from  the  soldiers'  barracks  is  the  Gate  of 
Stabiae,  built  of  huge  blocks  of  stone,  put  together  without 
mortar.  The  holes  for  the'  bolts  show  that  it  was  closed  by 
double  doors,  and  not  by  the  usual  portcullis.  A  valuable 
Oscan  inscription  was  discovered  here,  which  shows  that  the 
gate  was  at  a  remote  period  called  the  Stabean  Gate.  It  gives 
also  the  names  of  three  streets,  which  were  constructed  by  the 
public  slaves  of  Pompeii,  under  the  direction  of  the  surveyors, 
and  states  that  one  street  led  to  the  temple  of  Jupiter 
Meilichius. 

Let  the   traveller  now  return  along  the  Strada  Stabiana,  and 


POMPEII.  107 

after  passing  the  boundary  wall  of  the  small  theatre,  he  will 
find  on  the  left  the 

House  of  the  Sculptor,  of  little  interest  in  itself,  but 
remarkable  for  the  treasures  which  were  found  in  it,  and  are 
now  in  the  Museum  at  Naples  {see  p.  36).  Compasses, 
mallets,  levers,  saws,  unfinished  statues,  in  fact,  all  the 
appliances  of  the  sculptor's  art,  were  found  here  just  as  he  had 
left  them  on  the  day  of  doom.  A  few  steps  further  on,  at  the 
corner  of  the  Street  of  Isis,  is  the  Temple  of  >Esculapius. 
Whether  it  was  dedicated  to  ^sculapius  or  not  is  uncertain, 
but  in  the  cella  his  statue  was  discovered,  together  with  that 
of  Hygeia  and  Priapus.  By  some  it  has  been  called  the 
Theatre  of  Jupiter  and  Juno.  It  is  a  small  building — the 
smallest  temple,  in  fact,  in  Pompeii ;  and  the  most  interesting 
object  it  contains  is  a  large  altar,  which  stands  in  the  open 
court.  It  is  built  of  tufa,  and  closely  resembles  the  sarco- 
phagus in  the  Vatican,  known  as  the  Tomb  of  the  Scipios. 

Close  to  this  temple  may  be  seen,  through  an  aperture  in 
the  arch,  the  Aqueduct  built  by  Domenico  Fontana  in  1592, 
to  supply  Torre  dell'  Annunziata  with  water  from  the  Sarno. 
(See  p.  96.)  * 

The  Temple  of  Isis 

was  destroyed  by  the  earthquake  of  a.d.  63,  and  the  present 
building  had  been  only  just  restored  at  the  time  of  the 
great  eruption.  Over  the  entrance  is  the  copy  of  an  inscrip- 
tion discovered  there.  It  runs  thus:  "  Numerinus  Popidius 
Celsinus,  son  of  Numerinus,  restored  from  the  foundation,  at 
his  own  expense,  the  Aides  of  Isis,  overthrown  by  an  earth- 
quake. The  Decurii,  on  account  of  his  liberality,  elected  him, 
when  sixty  years  of  age,  to  be  one  of  their  order,  without 
paying  fees." 

The  Temple  is  on  a  slightly  elevated  basement  in  the  centre 
of  a  court  surrounded  by  a  portico  of  painted  Corinthian 
columns,  between  which  are  several  altars.  In  the  inner 
temple  was  found  an  image  of  Isis,  which  is  preserved  in  the 
Museum.  On  the  south  side  are  the  chambers  used  by  the 
priests.  Several  skeletons  were  found  here,  one  being  that  of 
a  man  who  had  endeavoured  to  cleave  his  way  through  a  wall, 
the  door  having  been  blocked  up  by  the  ashes.  The  axe  lay 
by  his  side,  and  traces  of  his  frantic  efforts  were  seen  upon  ihe 
wall.     On  the    fireplace    remnants  of   food    were    discovered. 


108  NAPLES. 

There  are  many  interesting  things  to  trace  in  this  temple — the 
Purgatorium,  containing  the  Sacred  Well,  where  the  wor- 
shippers performed  their  ablutions ;  the  halls,  embellished  w'ith 
elegant  reliefs  in  stucco  ;  an  adjoining  wall,  still  bearing  the 
traces  of  smoke  from  the  sacrificial  fire. 

Leaving  the  Temple  of  Isis,  the  building  on  the  left,  just 
before  reaching  the  portico  of  the  Triangular  Forum,  should 
next  be  visited.      It  has  been  variously  called  the 

Curia  Isiaca,  the  School,  and  the  Tribunal  ;  but  these  are 
mere  conjectures,  no  satisfactory  evidence  of  its  purpose 
having  yet  been  discovered.  It  is  an  oblong  court,  80  feet 
long  by  60  feet  broad,  surrounded  with  Doric  columns,  with 
two  chambers  at  one  end,  supposed  to  be  the  crypt,  and  a 
piilpitum,  raised  about  seven  feet  high.  An  inscription  was 
found  in  the  Great  Theatre,  which  has  been  translated  as 
follows  :  "  Marcus  Holconius  Rufus,  son  of  Marcus,  built 
the  Crypt,  Tribunal,  and  Theatre  for  the  honour  of  the 
city  {colonia)." 

Proceeding  (to  the  north)  up  the  Strada  dei  Teatri  and 
turning  right  the  first  building  on  the  right  hand,  in  the  Strada 
deir  Abbondanza,  is  the 

House  of  Holconius,  numbered  4.  It  was  an  elegant 
mansion,  with  a  handsome  peristyle,  and  the  embellishments 
usual  in  the  houses  of  noble  Pompeians.  In  this  house  lived 
a  lover  of  the  fine  arts,  and  a  man  of  good  taste.  Paintings 
may  be  still  traced  here,  though  some  are  fading,  and  the  best 
have  vanished.  Groups  of  Bacchus  and  Ariadne,  Diana 
and  Endymion,  Leda  and  Children,  Silenus  supporting  a 
Hermaphrodite,  and  others  yet  remain.  The  most  remarkable, 
perhaps,  is  that  of  Bacchus  and  Ariadne,  of  which  Dr.  Dyer 
has  given  a  lengthened  description.  Many  of  the  decorations 
in  this  house  are  very  rich.  Several  skeletons  were  discovered 
here,  among  them  one  of  a  female,  in  w-hose  hand  was  found 
a  casket  of  treasures,  who  was  arrested  by  the  fatal  vapour 
while  endeavouring  to  escape. 

A  short  distance  further  on,  in  the  same  street,  is  the  House 
of  Cornelius  Rufus.  The  spacious  atrium  contains  two 
handsome  pedestals  carved  in  the  form  of  lions,  on  which 
probably  stood  a  table.  A  marble  bust  of  the  owner  of  the 
house,  inscribed  with  his  name,  was  discovered  here,  and  still 
stands  in  the  atrium. 


POMPEII.  109 

Between,  and  in  a  line  with,  the  Strada  dell'  Abbondanza 
and  the  Amphitheatre  {see  p.  121),  is  a  Thermopolium,  a  kind 
of  public-house  where  hot  drinks  were  sold.  This  is  in  a  state 
of  perfect  preservation,  and  an  exact  idea  of  a  Roman  place 
of  refreshment  can  be  obtained  from  it. 


In  the  Strada  dell'Abbondanza  and  close  to  the  House  of 
Cornelius  Rufus  (p.  108)  are  the 

Stabian  Thermae, 

so  called,  to  distinguish  them  from  the  smaller  and  less  magni- 
ficent baths  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Forum.  The  Stabian 
Therms  are  entered  by  a  wide  portal,  opening  into  a  spacious 
court  or  Palaestra,  where  gymnastic  exercises  were  performed  ; 
this  court  has  a  portico  with  fluted  Doric  columns  and  orna- 
mented capitals.  On  the  walls  are  stucco  ornaments,  arabesques 
and  paintings,  some  in  good  preservation.  The  court  is  44  yards 
long  and  27  broad,  and  in  it  were  found  two  large  stone  balls, 
which  were  evidently  used  in  some  game  of  skill  or  strength. 
Opposite  the  entrance  a  door  opens  en  a  Tepidarium,  and  a 
corridor,  where  single  baths  are  situated.  On  the  other  side 
is  a  Spoliatorium,  with  small  dressing  rooms.  A  passage  leads 
into  the  Calidarium,  and  another  to  the  Tepidarium,  which 
contained,  l)esides  the  usual  square  ir.arble  bath,  an  elegant 
fountain. 

The  side  of  the  Thermee  parallel  with  the  Strada  Stabiana  is 
full  of  various  apartments,  where  may  be  traced  the  places 
occupied  by  the  furnaces  of  the  two  Tepidaria,  with  hollow 
walls  for  circulating  the  hot  vapour.  A  magnificent  Apody- 
terium,  with  circular  arches,  surrounded  by  marble  seats,  and  rich 
with  reliefs  in  stucco ;  a  richly-decorated  atrium,  etc. 

A  short  description  of  the  process  of  bathing  may  not  be 
uninteresting.  Those  who  took  the  cold  bath  only,  entered  the 
Apodyterium,  where  they  undressed,  then  donned  a  loose  robe, 
and  passed  to  the  bath.  The  processes  for  the  hot  bath  were 
more  complicated,  and  resembled  in  some  degree  the  modern 
Turkish  bath.  Passing  into  the  Tepidarium,  where  they 
unrobed,  they  entered  the  Sudatorium  or  vapour  bath.  'I  hen 
followed  the  use  of  the  strigil,  an  instrument  of  bone,  iron  or 
silver,  for  scraping  the  body,  and  corresponding  in  its  purpose 
to  the  rough  glove  used  in  the  Turkish  l)ath.     Then  came  the 


no  NAPLES. 

peirumed  hot-water  bath,  and  after  this  luxury  the  bathers 
returned  to  the  Tepidarium,  where  their  bodies  were  anointed 
with  unguents  rich  and  rare,  then,  after  leisurely  dressing, 
they  would  enter  the  Palaestria  to  engage  in  various  exercises 
to  create  an  api)etite  for  the  next  meal,  or  otherwise  kill  time. 

At  the  back  of  the  baths,  in  the  Strada  del  Lupanare,  there 
is  a  small  lane  called  Vicolo  del  Balcone  Pensile,  on  the  right 
of  which  is  the 

House  with  the  Hanging  Balcony  {Casa  del  Balcone 
Pensile)  (closed).  This  is  the  only  case  in  which  a  successful 
attempt  has  been  made  to  restore  a  house  with  a  balcony  to  its 
pristine  state.  It  is  evident  that  such  dwellings  were  not 
uncommon  in  Pompeii.  Signor  Fiorelli  has  succeeded  in  this 
instance  with  great  skill ;  three  rooms  of  the  upper  floor,  from 
which  the  balcony  projects  several  feet  into  the  street,  being 
preserved. 

In  the  Strada  del  Lupanare,  at  the  corner  of  the  Vicolo  del 
Balcone  Pensile,  is  the  Lupanar,  Pompeian  brothel.  This  place 
is  kept  locked  up.  The  street  derives  its  name  from  it.  On  the 
other  side  of  the  street  is  the 

House  of  Siricus  (closed),  so  named  from  an  inscription 
on  the  outer  wall,  containing  the  name  of  Siricus,  and  from  a 
seal  found  in  one  of  the  rooms  with  the  letters  "  Sirici "  in 
relief.  On  the  threshold  there  is  an  inscription  in  mosaic, 
"  Salve  Lucru."  On  the  left  is  a  room  in  which  are  symbolical 
representations  of  the  deities.  In  an  adjoining  apartment 
there  are  some  good  pictures,  namely,  Neptune  and  Apollo 
presiding  at  the  building  of  Troy ;  Vulcan  presenting  the  Arms 
of  Achilles  to  Thetis ;  Hercules  Intoxicated,  with  Bacchus  in 
the  background,  "  for  grace,  grandeur  of  composition,  and 
delicacy  and  freshness  of  colouring,  among  the  best  discovered 
at  Pompeii."  There  are  various  other  paintings  in  this  house, 
and  traces  of  many  elegant  embellishments.  Close  to  this 
house  were  two  taverns,  one  having  the  sign  of  an  elephant, 
and  the  other  serpents.  Above  the  latter  is  an  inscription, 
"  Lingerer  depart ;  this  is  no  place  for  idlers,"  a  motto  one 
would  like  to  see  over  taverns  nowadays. 

Entering  again  the  Street  of  Stabiae,  and  proceeding  north, 
the  tourist  will  fmd  on  the  right  the 

House  of  Marcus  Lucretius  (closed),  in  which  was  found 
a  painting  and  an  inscription,  indicating  that  the  house  belonged 
to  Marcus  Lucretius,  a  Flamen  of  Mars  and  Decurio  of  Pompeii. 
The  inscription  was  as  follows  : 


POMPEII.  Ill 

M.  Lucretio  Flam.  Martis  decurio?ii  Pompei. 

The  construction  of  this  house  is  very  curious  ;  the  garden 
laid  out  in  terraces,  being  considerably  higher  than  the 
atrium.  In  it  is  a  fountain  and  various  statues.  Only  a  few 
of  the  paintings  are  retained  here,  the  best  having  been 
removed  to  the  Museum.  The  fountain  deserves  special 
attention  ;  it  is  elaborately  ornamented  with  shell-work  and 
mosaics. 

In  the  Street  of  Stabiae  are  several  shops.  The  turning  to 
the  right  is  the  street  of  Nola,  and  in  this  street  in  191 1  was 
discovered  a  house,  named  after  the  Count  of  Turin  {Cam  del 
Conte  di  Torino)  belonging  to  Marcus  Obbellius  Firmus.  There 
were  6  skeletons  in  it,  which  have  been  temporarily  covered 
over  with  glass,  but  will  probably  be  removed  to  the  Museum 
at  Naples.  A  walk  of  five  to  ten  minutes  will  bring  the  tourist 
to  the 

Gate  of  Nola,  which  lies  within  a  passage  or  covered  way 
built  of  stout  masonry.  An  Oscan  inscription,  stating  by  whom 
the  gate  was  erected,  is  on  the  keystone  of  the  arch.  The 
tourist  whose  time  is  limited  need  not  visit  this  gate,  as  he  will 
see  others  of  greater  interest.  Turning  to  the  left,  he  will  enter 
the  Street  of  Fortune,  and  find  on  his  right  the  Casa  degli 
Scienziata,  named,  as  so  many  of  the  houses  in  Pompeii  are, 
from  the  presence  of  those  who  witnessed  its  excavation.  On 
the  left  hand,  just  opposite  the  narrow  lane  called  Vicolo  degla 
Scienziata,  is  the 

House  of  the  Chase,  so  named  from  a  large  painting  in 
the  peristyle  of  a  combat  with  wild  beasts.  Adjoining  this 
house  is  the 

House  of  Ariadne,  which  extends  from  the  Street  of 
Fortune  to  the  Street  of  the  Augustales.  The  atrium,  entered 
from  the  Street  of  Fortune,  is  remarkably  fine,  being  80  feet 
long  by  43  feet  broad,  and  adorned  with  24  columns.  The 
peristyle  is  composed  of  16  columns,  the  capitals  painted  with 
brilliant  colours.  In  the  centre  was  a  fountain.  The  con- 
struction of  the  house  is  such  that,  from  whichever  of  the  two 
streets  the  visitor  entered,  he  had  before  him  exactly  the  same 
view,  and  around  him  an  identical  arrangement  of  rooms. 

Continuing  to  explore  tlic  Street  of  Fortune,  notice,  on  the 
left,  the 


112  NAPLES. 

House  of  the  Grand  Duke  of  Tuscany.  It  is  small  ijut 
elegant,  and  has  a  mosaic  fountain  and  a  representation  of 
Amphion  and  Dirce.     Close  to  it  is  the 

House  of  the  Figured  Capitals,  so  named  from  the 
capitals  at  the  entrance  doorway  being  sculptured  with  fauns 
and  bacchantes.     Next  to  this  is  the 

House  of  the  Black  Walls  {Casa  della  Parete  Nero),  in 
one  of  the  rooms  of  which  are  various  graceful  representations 
on  a  black  ground.     Adjoining  is  the 

Temple  of  Fortune.  On  the  architrave  of  the  shrine  is  an 
inscription,  which  has  been  translated  as  follows  :  "  Marcus 
TuUius,  son  of  Marcus,  three  times  Duumvir  for  the  administra- 
tion of  justice,  Quinquennalis,  Augur,  and  Tribune  of  the 
Soldiers,  by  election  of  the  people,  erected  this  temple  of 
Fortuna  Augusta  on  his  own  ground  and  at  his  own  expense." 
It  is  approached  by  a  flight  of  steps.  Traces  of  an  iron  railing 
which  enclosed  the  temple  are  visible.  The  building  was  80  feet 
long  by  31  feet  broad,  and  the  whole  was  encased  in  marble. 
Two  statues  were  foimd  here,  one  of  them  resembling  Cicero, 
the  illustrious  ancestor  of  the  Tullion  family. 

In  the  street  leading  to  the  Forum  is  a  small 

Museum,  which  contains  objects  found  in  a  Roman  Villa 
excavated  at  Boscoreale,  2^  miles  from  Pompeii  {see  p.  125), 
in  1895,  such  as  the  bath  with  leaden  pipes,  and  taps  for  hot 
and  cold  water,  various  earthenware  vessels,  an  olive  press,  and 
a  hand-mill.    The  frescoes  and  busts  are  in  the  Naples  Museum 

(P-  43)- 

Ninety   silver  vessels   ot    Greek    and    Roman   workmanship 

found  in  the  Villa  are  now  in  the  Louvre,  Paris. 
Close  to  the  Temple  of  Fortune  are  the 

Old  Public  Baths  or  Thermae. 

Entering  the  spacious  court,  bounded  on  two  sides  by  a 
Doric  portico,  and  on  the  third  by  a  crypt,  there  will  be  seen 
arranged  round  the  walls  the  seats  where  servants  sat  awaiting 
the  pleasure  of  their  masters,  who  sometimes  bathed  as  often 
as  seven  times  a  day.  Under  the  portico  the  bathers  waited 
their  turn,  and  here  were  exposed  public  placards  of  the 
amusements  of  the  city.  It  is  curious  to  read  an  inscription 
which  was  found  on  a  wall,  but  has  been  effaced,  and  which 
has  been  translated  as  follows  : — 


POMPEII.  113 

"  At  the  dedication  of  the  Baths,  at  the  expense  of  Caucus 
Alleius  Nigidius  Mains,  there  will  be  a  venatio,  athletic 
contests,  sprinkling  of  perfumes,  and  awning.  Prosperity  to 
Mains,  chief  of  the  colony." 

Beyond   this    room    is    the    Frigidarium    (or    cold    bath),    a 

circular  chamber,    with   niches,    in   which   were    seats    for  the 

bathers.     Two  marble  steps  surround  the  basin,  which  is  only 

12  feet  10  inches  in  diameter,  and  about  3  feet  deep — rather 

a    poor    swimming    bath,   and  one  that   would   find   but   little 

patronage  among    hardy  northerners.       However,   in  this   the 

Pompeian  reposed,  and,  after  strengthening  his  frame  with  cold 

water,  passed  through  folding  doors  into  the  Tepidarium  (or 

warm  bath),  a  chamber  heated  by  air-pipes  and  a  brazier  of 

bronze.     The  embellishments  in  this  room  are  of  a  very  rich 

character,    the   vaulting    being   in  stucco   relief ;    the  cornice 

supported    by   small    figures   of   Atlas,    made   of  terra-cotta; 

recesses  for  the  clothes  of  the  bathers.     Beyond  this  room  is 

the  Calidarium  (or  hot-air  bath),  its  walls  being  so  constructed 

that  a  column  of  hot  air  enclosed  it  on   every  side ;  the  floor 

also  was  hollow,  so  that  the  steam  may  be  distributed  from  it. 

The  mouldings  in  the  vault  are  very  rich.     At  one  end  of  the 

room  there  is  a  semi-circular  niche,  in  which  is  a  vase  of  white 

marble  for  washing  the  face  and  hands.     An  inscription  states 

that  it  was    made   at    the   public    expense,    by   order    of  the 

Decurions,  and  cost  750   sestertia  (or  a  sum  equal  to  about 

^6).       Some   read  the  inscription    differently,  and  make  the 

cost  much  more  considerable.     At  the  other  end  of  the  room 

was  the  hot  sitting-bath.     These  baths  occupied  a  considerable 

space,  and  contained  many  other  chambers,   now  inaccessible 

to  the  public.      The  tourist  will  get  a  better  idea  of  the  old 

Roman  baths  from  the  Stabian  Thermae,  described  on  p.  109, 

although    these  are   but  insignificant   in   comparison   with   the 

Thermae  of  Caracalla  at  Rome. 

Returning  to  the  Street  of  Fortune,  and  retracing  his  steps 
past  the  Temple  of  Fortune,  the  tourist  will  find  on  the  left  the 
House  of  the  Faun  (closed),  so  named  from  an  elegant 
bronze  statuette  of  a  dancing  faun.  This  house  occupies  an 
entire  insula-— that  is,  the  whole  space  between  four  streets — 
and  is  one  of  the  largest  in  Pompeii.  It  measures  280  feet  long 
and  120  feet  broad.  It  was  discovered  in  1830,  in  the  presence 
of  Goethe's  son.  On  the  pavement  in  front  of  the  entrance  is 
inscribed  the  word  of  greeting,  "  Havk,"  in  coloured  marble. 
It  has  two  atria,  a  peristyle,  with  twenty-eight  1  )oric  columns,  and 


114  NAPLES. 

a  large  quadrangular  garden  with  a  portico,  in  which  may  be  seen 
a  great  number  of  amphorae,  or  wine  jars.  Some  of  the  finest 
mosaics  were  discovered  here,  amongst  them  the  Battle  of 
Issus  and  Acratus  on  the  Panther,  both  of  which  are  in  the 
Museum  at  Naples.  In  this  house  was  found  the  skeleton  of  a 
woman,  and  by  her  side  gold  rmgs,  bracelets,  and  jewels, 
which  she  was  endeavouring  to  carry  off  when  the  roof  gave 
way. 

Near  here  is  the 

House  of  the  Anchor,  so  named  from  a  mosaic  on  the 
threshold.  It  is  a  large  house,  but  inferior  to  many  already 
described.     At  the  top  of  the  Strada  di  Mercurio  is  a 

Triumphal  Arch,  once  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Nero  or 
Caligula.  The  traveller  is  now  in  the  neighbourhood  of  some 
very  remarkable  houses,  which  may  be  visited  in  the  following 
order : — - 

The  House  of  the  Tragic  Poet  (entrance  by  a  side  door), 
nearly  facing  the  Thermae,  is  so  named  for  two  pictures 
discovered  in  the  tablinum,  one  representing  a  poet  reading, 
and  another  the  rehearsal  of  his  tragedy.  Every  reader  of 
Bulwer  Lytton  w411  take  pleasure  in  examining  the  elegant 
details  of  this  mansion,  which,  according  to  his  novel,  "The 
Last  Days  of  Pompeii,"  was  the  house  of  Glaucus.  Its  chief 
treasures  have  been  removed  to  the  Museum  of  Naples.  In 
the  vestibule  was  a  dog,  in  mosaic,  about  to  spring  upon  any 
intruder  ;  and  below  the  inscription,  "  Cave  Canem."  In  the 
tablinum  are  mosaics  and  remarkable  ornaments.  The  peristyle 
of  seven  Doric  columns  encloses  a  small  court,  probably  used 
as  a  garden.  On  the  left  of  the  peristyle  is  the  library,  and  a 
small  chamber,  with  Venus  and  Cupid  fishing,  and  Ariadne 
Abandoned.  In  the  triclinium  (or  chamber  of  Leda)  is  a 
•  representation  of  Leda  and  Tyndareus.  An  admirable 
description  of  this  house  and  its  valuable  contents  has  been 
given  by  Sir  W.  Gell,  in  his  "  Pompeiana." 

The  Pullonica  (or  establishment  of  the  fullers)  comes  next 
in  order.  In  it  were  found,  illustrated  on  the  walls,  the  various 
processes  in  the  fuller's  trade,  which  was  an  important  one,  as 
wool  was  the  only  material  used  for  dresses  in  those  days. 
The  atrium  was  probably  used  as  a  storehouse,  the  roof  being 
supported  by  square  pillars.  The  process  of  cleansing  the 
garments  was  performed  by  the  feet,  the  water  being  mixed 
with  fuller's  earth.  Four  large  square  vats  or  tanks  occupy  the 
entire  end  of  the  court,  and  in  these  the  clothes  were  cleansed. 


POMPEII.  1 1  5 

Near  here  are  the  houses  of  the  Great  and  Little 
Fountains,  in  both  of  which  are  richly-ornamented  fountains 
of  variegated  mosaic. 

The  House  of  Pansa  (so  called  from  the  words  "  Pansam 
asd,"  found  near  the  principal  entrance)  occupies  an  entire 
insula  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  probably  belonged  to  one 
of  the  richest  and  most  distinguished  residents  in  Pompeii. 
Including  the  garden,  which  occupies  a  third  of  the  whole 
length,  its  area  is  about  300  feet  by  100  feet.  Part  of  this, 
however,  was  appropriated  for  shops,  as  was  the  custom  of  the 
place. 

No  better  idea  can  be  obtained  of  a  handsome  mansion  of 
that  period  than  that  afforded  by  the  House  of  Pansa.  It 
contains  a  vestibule,  an  atrium,  with  impluvium,  the  usual 
wings,  open  tablinum,  peristyle,  visitors'  rooms  on  each  side  of 
the  atrium,  triclinium  for  winter  use,  a  large  triclinium  ;  open 
court,  cubicula  ;  a  large  summer  triclinium,  opening  on  to  the 
garden ;  kitchen,  servants'  hall,  and  two-storeyed  portico. 
The  peristyle,  spacious  and  elegant,  had  an  arcade  of  sixteen 
Ionic  columns  around  it.  In  the  kitchen  were  found  various 
utensils,  including  a  frying-pan  specially  made  for  cooking  eggs. 
There  was  also  found  a  painting  illustrating  the  art  of  cookery. 
On  the  threshold  of  this  house,  as  of  others,  was  found  a 
mosaic  with  the  word  "Salve." 

At  the  back  of  the  four  insulje  in  which  are  the  houses  of 
Pansa  and  the  Faun  are  four  other  insulse,  which  the  traveller 
should  next  ins])ect,  and  will  commence  at  the 

House  of  the  Labyrinth,  at  the  back  (N.)  of  the  House 
of  the  Faun,  which  derives  its  name  from  the  subject  of  a 
mosaic  in  one  of  its  rooms.  The  mosaic  represents  the 
slaughter  of  the  Minotaur  by  Theseus,  in  the  Cretan  labyrinth. 
The  virgins  of  Athens,  who  were  about  to  become  the  prey  of 
the  monster,  are  depicted  in  attitudes  expressive  of  horror  and 
trepidation  while  the  ground  is  strewn  with  bones,  the  remnants 
of  the  former  ravages  of  the  Minotaur.  The  house  has  two 
atria,  one  Tuscan,  the  other  tetrastyle,  with  columns  of  the 
Corinthian  order  of  architecture.  In  the  corridor  which  leads 
to  the  peristyle  is  a  window  with  six  small  apertures  or  loop- 
holes. It  is  constructed  of  terra-cotta.  Among  the  other 
objects  of  interest  found  in  this  house  may  be  mentioned  a 
bronze  bath,  which  as  yet  stands  unifjue  among  the  remains  of 
Pompeii;  also  a  large  bakehouse.      In  the  gardrii,  the  skeleton 

I 


Il6  NAPLES. 

of  a   woman   with  her  jewels  was  found  at  a  height  of  six  feet 
from  the  original  level  of  the  house. 

The  House  of  the  Gilded  Cupids  {Casa  degli  Amoriiii 
Dorati),  excavated  close  to  the  above-mentioned  House 
of  the  Labyrinth.  It  is  a  large  private  residence,  richly 
decorated.  Beyond  the  spacious  vestibule  the  beautifully- 
decorated  atrium  contains  a  money  chest,  and  the  adjoining 
rooms  have  some  remarkable  mural  paintings.  The  peristyle, 
charmingly  painted,  contains  marble  and  bronze  figures,  and 
the  walls  of  some  of  the  adjoining  rooms  are  decorated  with 
skilfully-drawn  gilded  Cupids. 

The  House  of  Castor  and  Pollux  (closed)  is  so  called 
from  paintings  of  the  Dioscuri,  or  Sons  of  Jupiter,  named 
Castor  and  Pollux,  which  decorate  the  vestibule.  The  house 
has  also  been  called  the  house  of  the  Quaestor,  two  large  and 
handsome  chests,  which  were  supposed  to  have  contained  the 
revenues,  having  been  found  in  it.  A  peristyle  connects  it 
with  the  neighbouring  house.  At  its  end  are  a  fountain  and 
garden.  The  peristyle  is  adorned  throughout  with  pictures. 
The  atrium  is  about  40  feet  square,  and  painted  throughout  in 
red  and  yellow.  Among  the  figures  on  the  walls  are  those  of 
Jupiter,  Fortune,  and  Bacchus.  The  Court  of  the  Piscina, 
which  is  entered  from  the  other  house,  is  one  of  the  finest  parts 
of  this  remarkably  preserved  building.  The  subjects  of  the 
pictures  are  Ceres,  Apollo,  and  Saturn.  Eight  columns  of 
stucco  form  the  colonnade.  In  the  centre  is  a  piscina,  or 
remains  of  a  fountain.  Two  of  the  most  beautiful  paintings 
in  Pompeii — Perseus  and  Andromeda,  and  Meda  meditating 
the  Destruction  of  her  Children— were  depicted  on  the  alse. 
The  triclinium  is  the  only  other  noteworthy  portion  of  the 
house.  It  opens  on  the  court.  The  pavements  of  this  house 
consist  of  a  peculiar  compound  of  tile  clay  and  marble,  called 
opus  sig)iinum.     The  adjoining  house  is  called  the 

House  of  the  Centaur.  It  contains  little  to  attract 
attention,  though  the  paintings  of  the  legends  of  Hercules  and 
Meleager  were  found  there,  and  subsequently  removed  to  the 
Museum  at  Naples.  The  house  itself  is  in  a  very  dilapidated 
condition,  owing  to  the  falling  in  of  the  roofs  of  a  number  of 
vaults  under  the  peristyle. 

The  House  of  Meleager,  or  the  Nereids  (closed),  contains 
one  of  the  finest  peristyles  in  Pompeii.  The  freshness  of 
the  decorations  and  the  presence  of  vessels  filled  with  lime  in 
several   of  the  rooms  indicate  that  the  house  was  undergoing 


POMPEII,  117 

repairs  when  it  was  entombed.  It  is  paved  with  opus  sigiiinum, 
and  contains  twenty-four  fine  pillars,  somewhat  of  the  Doric 
style  of  architecture ;  in  the  centre  is  a  fountain.  The 
apartment  is  painted  red  all  round,  as  are  the  pillars,  to  the 
height  of  about  four  feet.  The  peristyle  is  at  the  side  of 
the  atrium,  and  not,  as  is  general,  at  the  back.  The  atrium 
is  also  painted  red,  and  agrees  with  the  general  character  of  the 
house,  by  bearing  upon  its  red  walls  a  number  of  designs,  of 
which  the  principal  figures  are  Nereids  and  sea  monsters. 
Hence  one  of  the  names  of  the  house. 

The  House  of  Adonis  (closed)  contains  a  representation 
of  Adonis  wounded,  and  tended  by  Venus,  as  also  the  Toilet 
of  Hermaphroditus,  attended  by  two  women,  one  of  whom 
liolds  a  casket  of  jewels  and  the  other  a  mirror  before  the  face 
of  Hermaphroditus. 

The  House  of  Apollo  (closed)  derives  its  name  from  the 
numerous  representations  of  that  deity  found  on  the  walls  and 
inside  the  house  ;  one  in  particular,  a  bronze  statue,  has  since 
been  removed  to  the  Museum  at  Naples.  The  walls  are 
painted  with  Bacchanalian  and  other  figures.  In  the  cystus 
is  a  large  painting  of  Ulysses  finding  Achilles  at  the  court  of 
Lycomedes.  This  house  is  remarkable  for  its  peculiarly  formed 
fountain. 

Passing  on  to  the  Strada  Consolare,  we  find  the 

House  of  Julius  Polybius,  whose  name  has  been  found  in 
several  inscriptions.  It  is  paved  with  mosaic,  and  is  supposed 
to  have  been  very  highly  decorated,  from  the  remains  of  gilt 
stucco-work  found  on  it.  Leaving  the  house  of  Julius  Polybius, 
the  traveller  will  observe  a  small  building  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  Strada  Consolare,  which  has  been  called  the  House  of 
the  Musician,  or 

Academy  of  Music,  so  named  from  a  representation  on 
the  walls  of  musical  instruments,  including  the  trumpet,  flute, 
and  various  others.  There  is  nothing  else  of  interest  in  this 
house,  and  adjoining  it  is  the 

Baker's  Shop  and  Bakehouse,  the  most  comi)lete  of  any 
of  the  shops  of  this  descri[)ti()n  yet  discovered  in  l^ompeii.  It 
contains  a  mill  for  grinding  the  corn,  made  of  rough  stone  and 
of  the  shape  of  a  dice-box.  In  one  room  a  number  of  bowls 
were  found,  which  appear  to  have  been  used  as  kneading- 
troughs.     The  oven  itself  adjoins  this  room.     On  either  side 

I   2 


Il8  NAPLES. 

of  the  oven  is  a  hole ;  one  was  for  placing  the  dough  in  the 
oven,  the  other  for  withdrawing  it ;  above  is  an  aperture  for 
the  escape  of  smoke,  and  below  an  ash-pit. 

The  House  of  Sallust  (closed).  The  atrium  of  this  house  is 
curiously  painted  with  different  shades  of  the  same  colour ; 
the  panels  are  also  stuccoed  in  a  curious  style.  Passing 
through  the  tablinum  from  the  atrium,  the  cystus,  or  garden, 
is  entered.  In  this  there  is  a  summer  triclinium  of  the  kind 
described  by  the  younger  Pliny  as  being  attached  to  his  villa. 
Among  the  other  objects  of  interest  in  the  house  were  found 
a  furnace  and  a  machine  for  heating  water,  which  latter  has 
been  removed  to  Naples. 

The  House  of  the  Female  Dancers  is  very  beautifully 
painted  with  female  figures  in  the  act  of  dancing. 

The  Soap  =  shop  contained  beautifully-constructed  scales, 
and  was  stored  with  lime  of  a  very  pure  consistency,  for  the  use 
of  the  soap  manufacturers.  The  soap  vats  are  placed  in  an 
inner  room. 

The  Custom  House  adjoins  the  soap  manufactory,  and 
possesses  little  of  interest  to  the  traveller,  except  from  the 
facts  that  in  it  many  curious  scales  and  an  ancient  steelyard 
were  discovered. 

House  of  the  Surgeon.  Here  were  found  a  number  of 
surgical  instruments  of  all  kinds,  showing  that  the  former 
inhabitants  of  this  unfortunate  town  must  have  been  well  versed 
in  this  art,  as  some  of  the  instruments — the  probe  and  forceps, 
for  instance — have  not  been  surpassed  by  the  best  of  modern 
inventions.  The  pictures  with  which  the  house  is  adorned  are 
remarkable  for  their  generally  studious  subjects,  showing  the 
way  by  which  their  owner  had  obtained  his  skill  in  his  pro- 
fession. One  of  these  figures  is  peculiarly  interesting,  as  giving 
us  an  idea  of  the  way  in  which  the  papyrus  rolls  of  manuscript 
were  read— that  is,  from  side  to  side,  the  columns  running 
down  the  roll  from  top  to  bottom  of  its  breadth. 

The  House  of  the  Vestals  is  remarkable  by  reason  of  a 
number  of  cabinets  ranged  round  its  atrium  ;  these  were  used 
as  work-boxes  by  the  occupants. 

The  House  of  the  Three  Floors  more  nearly  resembles 
our  modern  dwellings,  except  that  the  top  storey  is  the  ground 
floor,  and  on  a  level  with  the  street,  which  contains  the  atrium, 
peristyle,  and  triclinium.  The  lower  storey  is  reached  either 
by  a  stair  from  the  peristyle  or  a  sloping  passage  from  the 
street,  and  contains  a  triclinium  and  baths  ;  behind  is  a  court, 


POMPEII.  119 

with  piscina.  The  lowest  floor  of  all  seems,  from  its  wretched 
architectural  arrangements,  to  have  been  the  apartment  of  the 
slaves. 

The  House  of  Albino,  or  of  the  Musician,  is  so  called  from 
the  numerous  paintings  of  musical  instruments  on  the  walls. 
It  seems  to  have  been  a  double-storeyed  house,  but  is  now  in  a 
very  dilapidated  state. 

The  House  of  the  Vettii  (closed)  is  one  of  the  most  important 
recent  discoveries  (1895).  It  is  almost  unique  in  the  beauty 
and  variety  of  its  decorations,  and  the  authorities  are  to  be 
congratulated  on  the  great  care  taken  to  avoid  any  injury 
in  the  process  of  excavation  and  in  the  great  success  of 
restoring  the  house  so  as  to  present  to  the  visitor  a  faithful 
representation  of  its  original  condition. 

The  atrium,  the  peristyle,  the  two  dining-rooms,  the  large 
room  to  the  right  of  the  peristyle,  and  the  bedrooms  abound 
with  beautiful  paintings,  statuettes,  marble  tables  and  fountain- 
basins.  The  kitchen  and  the  cooking  utensils  are  just  as  they 
were  nearly  two  thousand  years  ago. 

Inside  the  city,  the  walls  and  ramparts  were  reached  by  a 
staircase,  wide  enough  to  admit  of  several  men  ascending 
abreast.  The  ramparts  are  formed  by  two  walls,  the  outer  from 
27  to  34  feet  high,  and  the  inner  about  7  feet  higher.  The 
space  between  the  two  walls  is  filled  with  earth,  and  formed  a 
plateau  whereon  the  defenders  of  the  city  were  marshalled. 
The  wall  is  2,925  yards  in  circumference.  One  of  these  stair- 
cases is  situated  next  the  Porta  di  Ercolano,  or  Gate  of 
Herculaneum,  which  was  made  with  a  centre  and  two  small 
side  entrances.  The  principal  entrance  had  a  space  between 
the  portcullis  and  the  inner  gate,  forming  a  double  defence  ;  if 
the  first  were  forced  by  assailants,  a  second  still  remained,  and 
the  aperture  was  used  for  throwing  missiles  on  the  heads  of  the 
foes.  In  this  manner  the  defenders  were  enabled  to  do  much 
damage  in  comparative  safety. 

Passing  out  of  the  city  by  the  Gate  of  Herculaneum,  we  enter 
the 

Street  of  the  Tombs. 

To  the  left  is  a  recess  containing  seats.  The  inscription 
proves  it  to  have  been  the  Tomb  of  Cerrinius  Restitutus. 

Next,  and  on  the  same  side,  is  the  Tomb  of  Mamiae,  a  public 
priestess,  as  the  inscription  tells  us.  First,  there  is  an  alcove, 
which  is  reached  by  a  step.     Behind  this   is  the  actual  tomb, 


120  NAPLES. 

which  contains  niches  for  cinerary  urns.  From  this  point  a 
lovely  view  of  the  surrounding  country  may  be  obtained. 
Farther  to  the  right  is  a  large  square  pedestal,  which  probably 
supported  a  bronze  statue,  for  pieces  of  bronze  were  found  at 
its  base.  Beyond  this,  and  still  on  the  same  side,  is  a  large 
semicircular  seat,  called  an  exedra.  It  is  beautifully 
decorated  and  well  preserved.  The  Tomb  of  the  Garlands, 
so  called  from  the  nature  of  its  decoration,  is  the  next 
object  of  interest,  and  is  close  at  hand.  On  the  opposite 
side  of  the  way  a  number  of  broken  columns  may  be  seen. 
These  mark  the  site  of  what  is  known  as  the  Villa  of  Cicero. 
To  the  right  are  some  shops.  The  most  pretentious  of  these 
is  supposed  to  have  been  a  hostelry  or  inn.  The  tombs  on  the 
left  side  of  the  street  are  those  of  Servilia  and  Scaurus, 
which  latter  had  upon  it  a  number  of  bas-reliejs  in  stucco ; 
these  have  now,  however,  disappeared.  Next  is  the  Round 
Tomb,  so  called  from  its  peculiar  structure. 

The  Tomb  of  Quintus  bears  an  inscription  on  it  telling 
that  the  honour  of  the  bisellium  (or  seat  of  honour)  was 
conferred  upon  Caius  Calventius  Quintus  for  his  munificence. 
The  tomb  is  an  extraordinary  structure,  and  one  of  the  most 
complete  and  beautiful  in  the  whole  street.  That  of  Naevoleia 
Tyche  is  adjacent,  and  presents  bas-reliefs  of  Naevoleia,  of  the 
dedication  of  the  tomb,  and  of  a  Roman  vessel ;  the  latter  is 
represented  as  on  a  calm  ocean,  with  all  sails  set,  and  is 
supposed  to  represent  the  journey  of  the  soul.  Lastly,  the 
Funeral  Triclinium  is  reached.  This  is  the  place  where 
feasts  were  given  to  the  friends  of  the  deceased,  on  the  day  of 
their  burial,  by  their  heirs  or  survivors.  To  the  right  is  a 
cluster  of  tombs,  none  of  which  have  any  special  interest,  except, 
perhaps,  that  of  the  marble  door.  It  stands  at  the  junction 
of  two  roads,  and  contains  a  small  apartment,  with  numerous 
niches  for  the  reception  of  urns. 

The  Tomb  of  Lucius  Libella  has  a  very  pretty  appearance, 
being  built  somewhat  in  the  form  of  an  altar.  It  has  no 
columbaria,  and  is  rather  singular  in  this  respect. 

The  inscription  tells  that  the  tomb  was  erected  by  a  public 
priestess  of  the  name  of  alleiadecimilla  on  ground  given  by 
the  commonw^ealth,  in  memory  of  her  husband,  Lucius  Libella, 
and  her  son  Alleius  Libella.  AUeius  seems  to  have  been  a 
very  distinguished  young  man,  as  it  is  recorded  that  he  was  a 
Decurion  of  Pompeii  at  the  age  of  seventeen  years. 


POMPEII.  121 

The  distinction  thus  conferred  on  so  young  a  man  seems 
almost  to  contradict  Cicero's  reply  to  the  friend  who  solicited 
his  interest  to  obtain  a  similar  position,  "  That  it  was  easier  to 
become  a  senator  of  Rome  than  a  Decurion  of  Pompeii,"  but 
it  was  doubtless  a  tribute  of  public  gratitude  to  his  family. 

The  Tomb  of  Cenis  and  Labeo  shows  very  little  of  its 
former  grandeur,  and  is,  indeed,  so  very  much  deteriorated 
that  very  little  of  the  ornamentation  is  to  be  seen  at  all. 

The  Children's  Tombs  is  a  merely  complimentary  title,  as 
no  tombs  exist.  One  of  the  so-called  tombs  is  an  urn  bearing 
an  inscription,  which  informs  us  that  it  contained  the  ashes  of 
Gratus,  who  died  at  the  age  of  twelve,  and  in  another  place 
near,  one  that  says  Salvius,  a  boy,  died  at  the  age  of  six. 

The  Tombs  of  the  Arria  Family  record  the  deaths  and 
descriptions  of  Marcus,  Arrius,  Diomedes,  and  their  families, 
Romans,  to  whom  the  adjoining  villa  belonged  from  time  to  time. 

The  Villa  of  Diomedes  (closed)  seems  to  have  been  the 
only  dwelling-house  of  any  one  of  note  in  the  street  devoted 
to  the  emblems  and  receptacles  of  the  dead.  Diomedes  also 
had  his  mausoleum  very  close  to  him ;  the  tomb  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  way  bears  his  name.  Below  the  villa  is  a 
curious  vaulted  chamber,  wherein  a  number  of  dead  bodies 
were  found.  The  ill-fated  inhabitants,  in  their  last  extremity, 
must  have  rushed  below  for  protection.  But  the  openings  of 
the  roof  admitted  the  fine  dust  and  cinders,  and  Diomedes  and 
his  family  were  overwhelmed  with  the  rest  of  Pompeii. 
Eighteen  bodies  of  women  and  children  who  had  provided 
themselves  with  food  were  found  in  the  vault  with  their  heads 
covered  up,  buried  in  the  ashes. 

About  200  yards  west  of  the  Villa  of  Diomedes,  a  magnifi- 
cent Roman  Villa,  containing  more  than  20  rooms,  was  dis- 
covered in  1909.  Some  of  the  rooms  are  adorned  with  ancient 
fresco  paintings  imitating  sculpture  in  high  and  low  relief,  also 
the  precise  effect  of  architectonic  perspective. 

The  Amphitheatre. — This  building  may  be  reached  by 
following  the  Strada  dell'  Anfitcatro  running  eastwards 
out  of  the  Strada  Stabiana  or  from  the  high-road  by  a  path 
diverging  opposite  the  Albergo  del  Sole,  nearly  a  mile  from 
the  railway  station.  The  Amphitheatre  (see  p.  98)  at 
Pompeii,  although  not  equal  in  appearance  to  the  Colosseum 
at  Rome,  was  large  enough  to  accommodate  20,000  spectators. 
Like  all  similar  erections,  it  is  elliptical  in  shape,  and  measures 


122  NAPLES. 

433  feet  by  335.  At  either  end  of  the  eUipse  may  be  seen  the 
entrances  for  the  combatants  into  the  arena.  The  spectators 
were  admitted  by  tickets,  some  of  which  are  preserved  in  the 
Museum  ;  and  the  seats  were  arranged  very  much  in  the  same 
manner  as  those  in  theatres.  The  lirst  series  of  seats,  having 
five  tiers,  was  devoted  to  the  use  of  the  wealthy,  senators, 
magistrates,  etc. ;  the  second  series  had  twelve  tiers,  and  the 
third  eighteen ;  and  above  all  ran  a  gallery,  in  which 
attendants,  servants,  and  a  promiscuous  multitude  assembled. 

The  construction  of  the  seats  should  be  observed,  as  they 
are  cut  with  places  for  the  feet,  so  that  the  persons  in  the  tier 
below  should  not  be  inconvenienced.  When  the  Amphitheatre 
was  first  laid  bare  many  interesting  frescoes  and  inscriptions 
relating  to  the  usages  of  the  arena  were  discovered,  but  soon 
perished  from  exposure  to  the  air.  Several  important  sketches 
have,  however,  been  preserved,  and  may  be  found,  together 
with  an  elaborate  account  of  amphitheatres  in  general,  and 
this  amphitheatre  in  particular,  in  Dr.  Dyer's  "  Ruins  of 
Pompeii."  It  will  be  remembered  that  on  the  day.  of  the 
eruption,  the  Pompeians  had  assembled  in  this  building  to 
witness  a  gladiatorial  show,  and  to  this  fact,  which  Lord  Lytton 
has  worked  out  with  such  thrilling  interest  in  his  "  Last  Days 
of  Pompeii,"  is  to  be  attributed  the  comparative  scarcity  of 
skeletons  discovered  in  the  city,  as  it  is  supposed,  upon  the 
first  burst  of  the  eruption,  the  spectators  fled  into  the  open 
country  and  so  were  saved.  The  Amphitheatre  was  built  a 
few  years  before  the  birth  of  Christ ;  it  suffered  from  the 
earthquake  of  63,  and  was  not  completely  restored  at  the  time 
of  its  destruction.  In  the  Street  of  the  Tombs  is  a  curious 
inscription,  giving  the  names  of  certain  combatants  who  took 
part  in  the  gladiatorial  shows,  and  from  this  source  Lord  Lytton 
was  able  to  introduce  the  names  of  actual  characters  into  his  story_ 

Gates,  Streets,  and  Walls. 

The  Gates  of  Pompeii  are  eight  in  number,  and  some  of  them 
of  peculiar  construction.  The  Gate  of  Herculaneum,  or 
Porta  di  Ercolano,  faces  the  road  leading  from  Pompeii  to 
Herculaneum  ;  the  Porta  della  Marina,  or  sea  gate,  spans  the  road 
which  leads  to  the  sea.  The  other  gates  are  of  less  note,  both 
topographically  and  architecturally  ;  they  are  the  Porta  di  Nola 
at  the  end  of  the  street  of  Nola,  the  Porta  di  Sarno  in  the  part 
of  the  town   least  touched   by  excavators,  and  the  Porta  del 


POMPEII.  123 

Vesuvio,  leading  in  tlie  direction  of  Vesuvius,  a  gate  on  the 
way  to  Capua,  and  one  towards  Stabias,  with  the  gate  of  the 
theatres.  The  gates  which  are  most  perfect  are  the  iirst  three, 
namely,  those  of  Herculaneum,  Nola  and  the  sea ;  all  the  rest 
have  suffered  more  or  less  from  the  ravages  of  time. 

In  1913  excavations  outside  the  gate  led  to  the  discovery  of 
the  ruins  of  the  seaport  of  Pompeii  seven  hundred  metres 
beyond,  and  at  a  distance  of  1250  metres  from  the  sea.  The 
jetty  and  other  remains  of  the  harbour  were  buried  under  about 
seven  metres  of  earth. 

Outside  the  Porta  di  Sarno,  on  the  north-eastern  side  of  the 
city,  recent  (192 1)  excavations  have  brought  to  light,  at  a 
"  Compitum  '  or  street-crossing,  a  fresco  divided  into  three 
sections,  one  of  which  consists  of  a  large  painting  of  the  twelve 
Penates  or  custodians  of  the  city,  namely,  Jupiter,  Juno,  Mars, 
Minerva,  Hercules,  Venus,  Mercury,  Proserpine,  Vulcan,  Ceres, 
Apollo  and  Diana. 

Close  by  is  a  house  with  the  remains  of  a  balcony  on  the  first 
floor. 

A  bar  has  also  been  unearthed  with  many  terra-cotta 
amphorae  still  fixed  in  the  ground,  and  at  the  end  of  the  counter 
a  small  furnace.  xA.bove  the  furnace  is  a  cauldron  with  a  lid  in 
which  was  found  some  liquid  that  had  been  placed  there  on 
the  day  of  the  great  catastrophe. 

Other  important  discoveries  consist  of  two  porticoes,  almost 
intact,  of  a  pergola  above  four  shops  and  a  well  preserved 
building  containing  a  crypto-portico  composed  of  three  large 
corridors  looking  on  to  a  garden. 

A  few  yards  outside  the  Porta  Vesuvio  along  the  Publia 
Road,  Pompeii,  three  sepulchral  monuments  have  been  brought 
to  light,  and  hopes  are  entertained  that  this  is  the  beginning  of 
the  unearthing  of  the  long-sought  Pompeian  suburban  necropolis 
spoken  of  by  Pliny. 

The  Streets  of  Pompeii  are  for  the  most  part  narrow  and 
irregular,  although  there  are  a  few  better  constructed  than 
the  rest,  which  form  the  main  arteries  for  traffic.  It  would  not 
be  possible  for  more  than  one  vehicle  of  the  narrowest  kind  to 
drive  along  them,  and  this  would  seem  to  indicate  that  the 
commercial  activity  of  Pompeii  was  never  very  great.  The 
marks  of  chariot  wheels  are  still  to  be  seen  on  the  rough  blocks 
of  lava  which  form  the  pavement  of  the  roadway  ;  in  some 
streets  there  are  regular  ruts,  while  in  others  the  marks  cross 
and  recross   in  various  ways.     On  either  side  of  most  of  the 


124  NAPLES. 

streets  are  footways,  in  some  instances  raised  so  higli  above 
the  road  as  almost  to  suggest  that  streets  were  used  as  channels 
for  the  rain,  etc.  But  so  far  from  this  being  the  case,  it  has 
been  discovered  that  the  sewage  system  of  Pompeii  was 
perfect,  many  of  its  ramifications  under  different  streets  having 
been  unearthed.  The  water  of  Pompeii  was  brought  from  the 
Sarno  by  an  aqueduct. 

Men  of  ancient  times  would  seem  to  have  been  quite  as 
much  moved  by  public  elections  as  men  of  the  present.  For 
in  many  of  the  streets  inscriptions,  in  the  red  paint  so  common 
to  Pompeii,  call  upon  the  citizens  to  vote  for  such  and  such  a 
person,  as  ^dile  for  his  native  town,  and  the  contest  seems 
very  often  to  have  been  keen,  for  the  inscriptions  tabulate  all 
the  virtues  of  the  candidate,  and  the  deeds  which  should  entitle 
him  to  the  suffrages  of  the  citizens.  In  one  respect  the 
ancients  were  superior  to  the  burgesses  of  the  present  day ; 
they  did  not  think  it  necessary  to  call  attention  in  their  election 
placards  to  the  weaknesses,  fancied  or  real,  of  their  opponents. 

The  chief  streets  are — ■ 

The  Do7nitiana^  or  Consoiare,  leading  from  the  Forum  to  the 
Gate  of  Herculaneum,  receiving  smaller  streets  on  either  side. 

The  Strada  deW  Abbo/ida?iza,  ox  Street  of  Abundance,  which 
leads  from  the  Forum  to  the  Gate  of  Sarno. 

The  Street  of  Nola  extends  into  the  Street  of  Fortune,  and 
of  the  Baths,  and  leads  in  a  direct  line  from  the  Gate  of  Nola 
to  the  Forum. 

The  Street  of  the  Forum,  in  a  line  with  the  Street  of  Mercury, 
leading  from  the  Forum  to  the  city  walls. 

The  Walls  were  the  chief  fortification  of  Pompeii,  and  were 
well  and  carefully  built ;  although  the  stones  were  not  cemented 
in  any  way.  Their  construction  was  peculiar,  and  consisted  of 
two  parts — -the  outer  wall  was  about  25  feet  high,  and  the 
inner  about  30  betw^een  these  two  walls  ran  a  rampart,  about 
15  feet  in  width,  upon  which  the  defenders  stood.  On  the  city 
side  the  walls  were  strengthened  by  an  agger,  or  inclined 
buttress,  which  was  carved  in  some  parts  into  steps,  wide 
enough  to  admit  the  passage  of  large  bodies  of  men.  At 
different  stages  along  the  walls  are  traces  of  towers. 

In  the  Museums — near  the  Porta  della  Marina  and  near 
the  Temple  of  Fortuna — -will  be  found  a  variety  of  articles 
taken  from  the  houses  at  different  times  during  the  excavations. 
Among  them  are  jewellery,  carvings,  household  utensils,  surgical 
instruments,  tools,  vases,   cups,  masks,  clocks,  pastry-moulds, 


CASTELLAMMARE.  1 25 

theatre  tickets,  etc.  A  strange  interest  will  attach  to  the 
examination  of  these  articles,  as  they  bring  vividly  to  mind  the 
dwellers  in  the  houses  which  have  been  examined  by  the 
visitors.  And  a  mournful  interest  will  attach  to  the  few 
ghastly  figures,  casts  of  skeletons  and  bodies,  found  among  the 
ruins. 

Further  interesting  excavations  were  opened  to   the  public  in 

1915- 

Boscoreale. 

About  2\  miles  north  of  Pompeii  is  the  Roman  Villa 
referred  to  on  page  112,  which  can  be  visited  by  special 
permission  of  the  proprietor,  Signor  de  Prisco.  Most  of  the 
contents  of  the  Villa  have  been  removed,  but  it  is  interesting 
to  see  the  oil  and  wine  presses,  and  the  large  earthenware 
vessels  sunk  in  the  floor  into  which  the  wine  flowed  direct  from 
the  presses. 

Valle  di  Pompei. 

[Hotel,  see  p.  iii.] 

Before  or  after  visiting  Pompeii  the  traveller  should  go  by 
train  or  carriage  a  short  distance  {\  mile)  to  see  the  new 
church  of  the  Virgine  del  Rosario,  erected  by  subscriptions 
from  all  parts  of  the  world,  within  the  last  few  years.  It 
contains  a  miraculous  image  of  the  Virgin,  and  is  visited  yearly 
by  100,000  pilgrims.  There  is  a  remarkably  fine  organ,  which 
may  be  heard  every  morning  after  the  arrival  of  the  first  train 
from  Naples.  It  has  60  stops,  and  is  the  first  built  in  South 
Italy  on  the  German  system  with  latest  improvements. 

NAPLES  TO  CASTELLAMMARE,  SORRENTO 
&  CAPRI. 

From  Torre  Annunziata  {see  p.  89)  a  short  railway  journey 
conducts  to  Castellammare,  crossing  the  mouth  of  the  Sarno, 
and  passing  on  the  right  the  rocky  island  of  Revigliano,  with 
its  ancient  fort. 

CASTELLAMMARE  DI  STABIA. 

[Hotel — see  p.  iii.] 

British  Vice=Consul. 

Castellammare  (population  about  34,000),  a  busy  trading 
and  fishing  town,  is  built  on  a  slope  of  the    Monte  d'Auro,  a 


126  naplp:s. 

spur  of  the  range  known  as  Monte  S.  Angelo.  It  stands  on 
the  site  of  the  ancient  Stabise,  which  was  destroyed  in  the 
eruption  of  a.d.  79,  wherein  Phny  the  Elder  was  suffocated. 
The  town  offers  a  cool  and  delightful  retreat  in  hot  weather  ; 
it  is  sheltered  from  the  east  winds  in  winter ;  abounds  in 
mineral  waters  efficacious  in  gout,  rheumatism,  and  paralysis  ; 
is  surrounded  with  suburbs  of  unrivalled  beauty,  and  com- 
mands views  which  generations  of  artists  have  in  vain  striven 
to  reproduce  on  canvas. 

The  town  consists  of  two  main  streets  running  parallel 
with  the  coast  for  about  a  mile.  On  a  hill  to  the  south  is 
the  ruined  castle  which  gives  its  name  to  the  town.  This 
fort,  built  by  the  Emperor  Frederick  II.  (13th  century), 
was  afterwards  strengthened  by  Charles  I.  and  Alphonso  I. 
The  quay  and  the  port  are  generally  thronged  by  busy 
traders  and  workmen.  The  port  has  an  arsenal  and  dockyard, 
where  some  of  the  ships  of  the  Italian  navy  are  built. 

Castellammare  owes  its  chief  reputation  to  its  chalybeate 
springs,  which  flow  from  the  base  of  Monte  d'Auro,  and 
have  been  for  centuries  regarded  as  valuable  remedies  in 
cases  of  gout,  rheumatism,  and  paralysis.  Analyses  of 
twelve  different  springs  have  been  made,  and  their  various 
properties  are  recorded  for  the  benefit  of  visitors. 

The  neighbourhood  is  extremely  beautiful,  and  affords 
delightful  excursions  either  on  foot  or  on  donkey-back.  The 
following  are  the  most  interesting  : — 

To  the  Villa,  or  Casino,  Quisisana,  which  is  now  the 
property  of  the  municipality,  built  in  the  14th  century  by 
Charles  II.  of  Anjou.  The  view  from  the  terrace  (fee  25c.) 
is  fine,  and  the  gardens  are  well  worth  seeing. 

The  Bosco,  or  Park,  is  open  free  to  the  public.  Beauti- 
ful wooded  walk  to  Monte  Coppola  (990  feet) ;  return  to 
Castellammare  by  the  Monastery  (converted  into  a  naval 
hospital)  of  S.  Maria  a  Puzzaiio,  founded  by  Gonsalvo 
da  Cordova. 

To  Qragnano,  3  miles  by  train  (or  drive),  a  town  of  about 
12,000  inhabitants,  noted  for  its  wine  and  for  its  manufactory  of 
macaroni. 

To  Lettere,  a  village  about  3  miles  north-east  of  Gragnano, 
beautifully  situated  on  a  slope  of  the  mountains,  and  com- 
manding splendid  views. 


SORRENTO.  127 

To  Monte  Faito  (3,620  feet).  An  easy  and  enjoyable 
excursion,  part  of  which  can  be  made  by  carriage.  Extensive 
and  delightful  prospect  from  the  summit. 

To  Monte  Sant'  Angelo,  a  journey  of  4-5  hours.  The 
highest  point,  4,722  feet  above  the  sea,  commands  magnifi- 
cent views  of  the  bays  of  Naples,  Gaeta,  and  Salerno,  and 
of  the  Apennines.  A  guide  is  necessary,  and  can  be  hired, 
with  donkey.  The  tourist  should  ask  to  be  conducted 
to  the  peak  crowned  by  the  chapel,  or  he  will  be  taken  to 
another  point  where  the  view  is  interrupted. 

For  carriages  with  one,  two,  or  three  horses,  arrangements 
should  be  made  beforehand. 

The  road  from  Castellammare  to  Sorrento  (11  miles)  is 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  in  the  district.  It  passes  Vice 
Cquense,  Meta,  the  village  of  Carotto,  Pozzopiano,  sur- 
rounded by  orange  gardens,  and  Saiif  Agnello.  Electric  trams 
every  \  hour  (12  miles  in  about  \\  hours).  The  novelist, 
F.  Marion  Crawford,  who  died  April  9,  1909,  lived  at  Sant' 
Agnello  for  many  years. 


Sorrento 

[Hotels — see  p.  iii.] 

(population,  about  7,000)  has  attractions  similar  to  those  of 
Castellammare,  and  some  peculiarly  its  own.  Deep  ravines 
border  it  on  three  sides,  and  on  the  fourth  a  deep  precipice 
rising  out  of  the  sea.  The  walks  in  these  ravines  are 
charming,  especially  in  the  evening. 

In  the  Hotel  Traino/ihiiio,  from  November  to  May,  Church 
Service  is  held  by  an  English  chaplain.  The  church  itself 
is  one  of  the  most  comfortable  and  handsomely  decorated 
English  churches  on  the  continent. 

The  Tarantella,  or  National  Dana,  may  be  seen  at  the 
Hotel  Tramontano. 

Sorrento  is  a  good  stopping-place,  either  in  summer  or  in 
winter.  (Steamers,  see  p.  1 28)  In  summer  it  is  frequented 
chiefly  by  Italians  for  the  bathing  season,  and  for  its  cool 
northern  aspect.  All  the  hotels  are  situated  in  gardens, 
and  have  private  roads  and  stairs  descending  to  their  bathing 
establishments.  In  winter  visitors  of  every  nationality  frequent 
Sorrento,  especially  English  and  Americans.  Hotels  and 
lodging-houses  are  numerous  ;  fish,  fruit,  wine,  dairy  produce, 


128  NAPLES. 

etc.,  plentiful  and  good ;  the  neighbourhood  replete  with 
delightful  excursions.  Carriages,  horses,  donkeys,  boats,  etc., 
are  provided  for  visitors,  according  to  specified  tariffs. 

Sorrento  possesses  in  itself  few  antiquities  or  objects  of 
interest.  It  was  the  birthplace  of  the  poet  Tasso,  and  the 
Hotel  Tasso  contains  the  room  in  which  he  laboured.  His 
statue  stands  in  the  Piazza  del  Castello.  The  Cathedral 
is  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  temple,  of  which  two  marble  pillars 
support  a  canopy  in  the  nave.  La  Sedile  is  a  Museum,  with 
Greek  and  Roman  bas-reliefs,  etc. 

Amongst  the  excursions  which  may  be  made  from  Sorrento 
may  be  noted  the  following :  To  Capo  di  Sorrento 
{\\  mile),  with  Roman  remains,  etc. ;  Deserto,  with  monastery 
(fine  views  from  the  roof) ;  Sant'  Agata  ;  the  Telegrafo ; 
Soprala  Vaccina,  to  the  Piccolo  Sant'  Angelo,  descending 
on  the  east  of  Sorrento,  six  hours  in  all.  Donkeys  may  be 
hired  {see  above).  Santa  Maria  a  Castello  is  visited  by 
many  on  August  1 5th,  to  see  the  magical  effect  of  Positano 
lit  up  for  its  fete.  Numerous  other  walks  and  excursions  will 
easily  be  discovered  by  enquiry. 

The  road  to  Massa  Lubrense,  beyond  the  Capo  di 
Sorrento,  is  a  favourite  evening  drive  or  walk  {2\  miles), 
commanding  as  it  does  delightful  points  of  view.  From  Massa 
excursions  to  Termini  and  to  the  Punta  di  Campanella. 

A  new  road  has  been  made  from  Sorrento  to  Amalfi 
(p.  134),  passing  Meta,  Positano,  Praiano,  and  Conca — 
a  magnificent  drive  of  15  miles.  Splendid  inland  views 
between  Meta  and  Positano,  whence  the  beautiful  coast  is 
skirted  all  the  way  to  Amalfi. 

At  Sorrento  the  steamer  calls  from  Naples  en  route  for  Capri 
and  the  Blue  Grotto  about  10.10  a.m.;  in  good  wenther  the 
voyage  occupies  about  one  hour ;  but  when  there  is  any  force 
of  wind  from  the  north  or  east,  the  Blue  Grotto  is  not 
accessible. 

Capri. 

[Hotels — see  p.  iii.J 

Weather  permitting,  steamers  leave  Naples  daily  for 
Capri.  One  steamer  leaves  the  harbour  at  S.  Lucia  and  the 
Castel  deir  Ovo  daily  at  9  a.m.  for  Sorrcfito,  the  Blue  Grotto 
and  Capri — returning  4  p.m.  same  day  to  Naples.  The  mail 
steamers  of  the  Neapolitan  S.  N.  Co.  (Governmental)  leave  the 


CAPRI.  129 

Immacolatella  at  4.30  p.m.  daily,  calling  at  Vuo,  Equa, 
Meta,  Sorrento^  Afassa,  and  Capri,  returning  from  Capri  at 
6.30  p.m. 

The  island  of  Capri  consists  of  little  else  than  a  picturesque 
and  rugged  mass  of  rock  standing  in  the  sea,  of  stern  and 
forbidding  aspect,  containing  the  two  small  towns  of  Capri  and 
Anacapri.  The  town  of  Capri  is  like  a  village  of  Syria,  the 
roofs  of  the  houses  being  flat  or  domed,  and  essentially 
Oriental.  The  inhabitants  wear  the  most  picturesque  of 
costumes,  and  are  the  pleasantest  of  village  folks.  Artists 
flock  here  every  year,  and  find  fresh  scenes  in  abundance. 
The  wild,  precipitous  cliffs  remind  one  of  Norway  ;  the  village 
reminds  one  of  Egypt  and  Syria ;  the  patches  of  luxuriant 
vegetation  in  the  midst  of  rugged  rocks  remind  one  of  the 
Isles  of  Greece  ;  and  yet  Capri  is  unlike  all  other  places — it  is 
Capri. 

Holy  Week  is  observed  with  much  ceremony  in  all  the 
churches  on  the  island.  Following  the  celebration  of  Mass  in 
the  cathedral  on  the  morning  of  Holy  Thursday,  there  is  the 
washing  of  the  feet  of  the  twelve  oldest  and  poorest  men  on 
the  island  by  the  priests.  On  Good  P>i(lay  the  entire  popula- 
tion joins  in  a  procession  headed  by  the  priests  and  members 
of  the  Misericordia. 

The  chief  landing-place  is  at  the  Marina  Grande,  on  the 
north  side  of  the  island  ;  there  is  another  landing-place  at  the 
Marina  Piccola  on  the  south  side,  which  is  used  when  the 
north  wind  is  blowing  hard.  The  distance  to  the  town 
of  Capri  is  about  the  same  from  either  Marina,  namely 
30  minutes. 

At  the  Marina  Grande  (where  there  is  good  sea-bathing,  as 
also  at  the  Ragni  di  Tiberio)  are  several  hotels  and  restaurants  ; 
others  on  the  road  to  Capri  ;  and  others  again  in  the  towns  of 
Capri  and  Anacapri,  Many  of  these  are  full  during  the  winter 
and  spring,  and  visitors  intending  to  make  a  stay  in  the  island 
are  recommended  to  secure  rooms  in  advance.  Pensions,  and 
fairly  comfortable  furnished  apartments  can  be  obtained  at 
reasonable  rates.  Physicians  speaking  a  little  English  will  be 
found  at  Capri  ;  also  a  British  Consular  A^rent,  a  U.S. 
Consular  Aji;'ent,  and  an  International  Club  with  English 
newspapers,  billiard,  and  concert  rooms.  English  Church 
Service  (All  Saints)  in  winter. 

The  ascent  from  the  landing-places  is  very  steep,  and  is 
generally  made  in  the  saddle  or  in  a  carriage  ;  donkeys  and 


130  NAPLES. 

carriages  can  be  obtained  on  the  beach.  There  is  now  a 
funicular  railway  from  the  Marina  Grande  to  Capri.  Fare 
I  1.  90  c. 

Capri  in  recent  years  has  become  one  of  the  most  favourite 
spots  in  the  Bay  of  Naples,  frequented  by  some  40,000  visitors 
annually  in  autumn,  winter,  and  spring,  and  by  many  Italian 
families  during  the  summer.  The  climate  is  healthy,  being 
sunny  and  free  from  moisture,  but  inconvenience  is  often 
experienced  from  the  excess  of  dust,  and  the  absence  of  shade. 
The  mean  winter  temperature  is  50°  Fahr.  The  student  will 
be  interested  in  Capri,  from  its  associations  with  Augustus  and 
Tiberius.  With  the  latter,  this  island  w\is  a  constant  and 
favourite  retreat ;  here  he  ruled  the  great  Roman  Empire ; 
"  here  he  committed,  or  ordered,  some  of  the  most  atrocious 
of  his  cruelties  ;  here  he  wrote  the  '  verbose  and  grand  epistle  ' 
to  the  Senate  at  Rome,  immortalised  in  its  infamy  by  Juvenal  ; 
here  the  arbiter  of  the  fate  of  millions  trembled  in  his  old  age 
at  what  might  be  his  own  destiny,  and  sat  on  the  '  august  rock 
of  Capreas,'  with  a  Chaldean  band,  to  consult  the  stars." 

From  Capri  town  many  interesting  walks  and  excursions, 
most  of  them  steep  and  fatiguing,  can  be  made.  The  easiest 
of  all  is  to  the 

Punta  Trag-ara  (Cafe-Restaurant),  a  promontory  com- 
manding a  fine  view  of  the  south  coast  and  of  the  precipitous 
cliffs  called  the  Faraolioni.  Small  path  down  to  the  sea-shore. 
Another  path  leading  at  some  considerable  distance  to  the 
Arco  Naturale,  whence  good  view  of  the  east  coast. 

Another  walk  of  about  an  hour  to  the  north-east  promontory 
leads  to  the  ruins  of  the 

Villa  di  Tiberio,  built  byjTiberius,  and  dedicated  to  the 
twelve  deities,  some  of  the  \aulted  rooms  being  now  used 
as  cow-houses.  The  visitor  will  enjoy  from  this  point  the 
glorious  views  around,  the  deep  blue  sea  below,  the  islands  in 
the  distance  across  the  bay,  and  the  mountains  on  the  right. 
The  return  journey  may  be  made  by  the  Via  Matermania  to 
the  gorge  leading  to  the  Arco  Naturale,  turning  aside  to 
visit  the  Qrotto  di  Matromania  (Roman  Remains),  and 
regaining  the  road  to  the  Punta  Tragdra  previously  mentioned. 
The  hills  commanding  Capri  are  San  Michele  (804  feet)  with 
ancient  ruins  and  a  Stalactite  Grotto  (private  property;,  and  the 
Castiglione  (820  feet),  with  a  dilapidated  castle  on  the  top 
(gratuity).     For  any  of  these  excursions  guides  may  be  dispensed 


CAPRI.  131 

with,  and  boys  to  show  the  way  can  be  had  for  a  Hra  during 
a  whole  morning  or  afternoon. 

From  Capri  town  a  visit  may  be  made  to 

Anacapri,  2\  miles,  by  a  road  cut  in  the  rock,  commanding 
beautiful  views,  the  second  town  of  the  island;  pop.,  2,500. 
There  are  Roman  ruins  in  the  neighbourhood.  [Hotels,  see 
p.  iii.] 

From  Anacapri  good  walkers  should  make  the  ascent  of 
Monte  Salaro  (1,920),  on  the  south  side  of  the  island,  rising 
abruptly  from  the  sea.  The  view,  or,  rather,  two  views  from 
the  summit  are  superb,  taking  in  the  Bay  and  suburbs  of 
Naples,  with  the  Apennines,  Vesuvius,  Salerno,  Prestum, 
Sorrento,  etc.,  on  one  side,  and  the  long  land  and  sea  view  to 
Calabria. 

The  greatest  attraction  of  all  is  a  visit  to  the  Blue  Grotto 
( Grotta  Azzurrd)  This  is  made  from  the  steamer  in  small  boats, 
by  travellers  who  are  not  making  a  stay  on  shore.  Fare  to 
the  Grotto  and  back,  \\  fr.  For  resident  visitors  on  the 
island  a  boat  may  be  hired  at  the  Marina  Grande,  changing 
into  a  smaller  boat  at  the  Grotto.  Time  required,  2  hours — 
a  most  delightful  excursion  along  the  rocky  shore.  This 
natural  curiosity  is  alone  worth  the  journey  to  the  island. 
It  can  only,  however,  be  entered  when  the  sea  is  calm,  and 
even  then  the  visitor  must  bend  his  head  low  in  the  boat,  as 
the  low  rocky  arch  is  entered.  On  rising,  he  finds  himself 
in  fairyland.  "The  walls  and  roof  are  all  radiant  with  precious 
stones  of  a  clear,  rich  blue,  not  seen  to  perfection  until 
nearly  half  an  hour  has  passed,  but  every  moment  becoming 
more  radiant."  The  hand,  or  any  object,  placed  in  the  water 
seems  as  if  silvered  over.  "  Throw  a  stone  into  the  water," 
says  a  writer,  "  and  a  myriad  of  tiny  bubbles  that  are  created 
flash  out  a  brilliant  glare  like  blue  theatrical  fires.  Dip  an  oar 
and  its  blade  turns  to  a  splendid,  frosted  silver,  tinted  with  blue. 
Let  a  man  jump  in,  and  he  is  instantly  cased  in  an  armour 
more  gorgeous  than  ever  knightly  Crusader  wore." 

An  official  tariff  fixes  the  charges  for  boats  and  admission  to 
Grotto,  but  gratuities  are  expected. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  island  may  be  seen  the  Passagio  e 
Grotta  Verde  (Green  Passage  and  Grotto),  from  the  colour 
refracted  by  the  sea,  but  they  are  greatly  inferior  in  beauty  to 
the  Blue  Grotto. 

In  perfectly  calm  weather  a  voyage  round  the  island  may 
well  be  made  in  a  l)oat  with  four  rowers  at  a  cost  of  40-50  1. 


132  NAPLES. 

in  about  4  hours  ;  or  a  shorter  excursion  can  be  recommended 
from  the  Marina  Grande  round  the  east  side  of  the  island, 
which  is  the  most  attractive,  passing  the  Grotta  del  Bove 
Marino,  curious-shaped  rocks,  the  Grotta  Bianca,  the  Faraglioni, 
and  the  Grotta  del  Arsenale  to  the  Marina  Piccola,  and  return 
to  Capri. 

From  Capri  the  traveller  can  return  direct  to  Naples  by 
steamer  or  sailing  boat  (15  miles),  and  enjoy  the  exquisite 
panorama  of  the  shores  of  the  bay,  or  proceed  to  Sorrento. 


NAPLES    TO   SALERNO,  AMALFI    (BATTIPAQLIA), 
P/ESTUM. 

Naples  to  Pompeii  {see  p.  89). 

On  leaving  Pompeii,  the  line  crosses  the  plain  of  the  Sarno 
to  VaUe  di  Po7npei  {see  p.  125)  ;  Scafati  (festival  of  Santa  Maria 
dei  Bagni,  August  15th);  Angri,  near  which  the  Goths  were 
finally  vanquished  by  Narses,  a.d.  553  ;  Fagant,  with  Church 
of  S.  Michele,  and  body  of  S.  Alphonso  de'  Ligucri  (founder 
of  the  Redemptorists)  under  a  glass  case. 

Nocera  Inferiore  (population  12,000)  was  the  birthplace  of 
Hugo  de  Pagani  (founder  of  the  Templars)  and  of  the  painter 
Solimena.  The  chief  feature  of  interest  is  the  Castello  in 
Parco,  or  citadel,  where  Helena,  widow  of  Manfred,  and  her 
son  Manfredetto,  died  in  prison,  after  the  battle  of  Benevento. 
Many  historical  events  are  connected  with  this  edifice.  Leaving 
Nocera,  we  soon  pass  on  the  right  the  ancient  church  of 
Santa  Maria  Mag'giore,  with  antique  columns,  etc.,  and 
14th-century  frescoes.  It  was  originally  a  temple.  After 
passing  Nocera  Siiperiore  we  reach 

Cava  dei  Tirreni  [Hotels — see  p.  iii.],  a  justly  cele- 
brated summer  and  autumn  retreat  (population  25,000)  with 
delightful  neighbourhood,  whose  charms  are  said  to  have  often 
inspired  the  pencil  of  Salvator  Rosa.  A  lovely  walk  through 
the  wood,  or  a  drive  by  the  carriage  road,  conducts  to 

Corpo  di  Cava,  where  may  be  visited  the  renowned 
Benedictine  Abbey,  La  Trinita  della  Cava,  founded  in  1025. 
The  church,  the  tombs,  and  the  library,  especially  the  archives, 
and  the  small  picture  gallery,  are  all  worthy  of  careful  notice. 
Admission  daily,  9  till  sunset,  except  on  festivals.  The  return 
journey  may  be  made  by  the  Grotta  Bonea. 


SALERNO.  133 

From  Cava  the  line  passes  through  a  charming  district  of 
which  the  author  of  "Pictures  in  Italy  "  says  :  "The  railroad 
as  far  as  Vietri  winds  along  a  valley,  from  which  the  mountains 
rise  in  grand  and  massive  forms.  A  rapid  stream,  having 
innumerable  water-mills,  gives  vivacity  to  the  scene.  A  rich 
semi-tropical  vegetation  extends  far  up  the  mountain  sides. 
The  inhabitants,  as  yet  little  affected  by  the  tide  of  tourists 
which  the  railway  brings,  retain  their  old  usages  and  old 
customs  almost  unchanged.  Here,  as  throughout  the  Mar- 
emma,  labourers  from  the  Abruzzi  may  be  seen  celebrating  the 
ingathering  of  the  harvest,  wnth  songs  and  dances  which  have 
come  down  from  a  remote  antiquity,  and  bear  unmistakable 
traces  of  the  Pagan  festivities  in  honour  of  Bacchus  and 
Ceres." 

Pleasant  walk  or  carriage  drive  io  Salerno  /ro?n  Vietri 
^  hour ;  to  Amalfi,  2\  hours. 

After  passing  Vietri  (station  Vietri  sul  inare)^  a  picturesque 
town,  charmingly  situated,  the  railway  descends  to 


Salerno. 

British  Vice=Consul. 

Salerno  (pop.  about  32,000)  is  beautifully  situated  on  a'lovely 
bay,  its  principal  streets  running  parallel  to  its  crescent-shaped 
beach.  The  old  town  gradually  rises  on  the  slopes  of  a  spur  of 
the  Apennines,  from  the  summit  of  which  frown  the  ruins  of 
the  ancient  Citadel,  besieged  for  eight  months  by  Robert 
Guiscard. 

Salerno  (anc.  Saler/imu)  was  celebrated  by  the  Latin  poets 
for  the  charms  of  its  situation.  In  the  Middle  Ages  it  was  an 
important  town,  and  experienced  varied  fortunes  as  successive 
Lombard,  Norman,  Suabian,  or  other  princes  possessed  it.  Its 
chief  mediaeval  fame  rests  on  its  noted  university,  which  for 
centuries  was  the  headquarters  of  the  medical  knowledge  of 
the  period.  In  Longfellow's  "Golden  Legend"  some  graphic 
pictures  are  given  of  the  Salernian  Schools. 

The  Cathedral  (San  Matteo)  was  built  by  Robert  Guiscard 
in  1084,  and  Paestum  {see  p.  136)  was  rifled  of  works  of  art 
to  embellish  it.  It  was  restored  in  1768,  greatly  to  the  detri- 
ment of  its  original  simple  grandeur.  The'  quadranjfle  in 
front  contains  28  ancient  columns,  and  14  toml)s,  formed  of 
ancient    sarcophagi.      The   Bronze   doors    (1099),    executed 

K   2 


134  NAPLES. 

at     Constantinople,    and    presented    by    Landolfo    Butromile, 
were  originally  inlaid  with  silver. 

Inthe  Nave  are  two  amhones  or  lecterns, anarchbishop's  chair, 
richly  decorated  with  mosaics.  Marble  columns  from  Psestum. 
Tomb  of  Margaret  of  Anjou  (Queen  of  Charles  of  Durazzo).  In 
the  chapel  to  the  right  of  the  high  altar  is  the  Tomb  of 
liildebrand  (Gregory  VII.),  who  died  in  exile  at  Salerno  in 
1085.  Various  Pagan  sarcophagi  have  been  placed  in  this 
church  and  used  for  Christian  interment.  On  the  altar  of  the 
Sacristy  is  a  curious  piece  of  work,  comprising  fifty-four  Bible 
subjects,  carved  in  ivory,  about  a.d.  1200.  The  Crypt  contains 
interesting  tombs,  and  is  richly  decorated  with  mosaics,  etc. 
The  Campanile  has  two  storeys  left,  dating  from  a.d.  1130. 
the  rest  more  modern. 

In  the  churches  of  San  Giorgio  and  San  Lorenzo  are 
paintings  and  frescoes  by  the  celebrated  Andrea  Sabbatini  of 
Salerno. 

The  Corso  Garibaldi,  on  which  is  the  Grand  Theatre,  is  a 
delightful  promenade  of  a  mile  and  a  half  leading  to  the 
harbour. 


From  Salerno  a  pleasant  carriage  drive  of  15  miles  (2^  to 
3  hours)  leads  to 


Amalfi 

[Hotels — see  p.  iii], 

a  bright  busy  town  of  5,000  inhabitants.  It  can  also  be  reached 
from  Sorrento,  about  20  miles,  in  four  hours,  by  a  new  carriage 
road;  from  Vietri,  12  miles;  from  Castellammare  6  hours  by 
the  little  Piccolo  Sant'  Angelo,  rough  and  picturesque.  Steam- 
boat services  by  the  Neapolitan  S.N.  Co.  twice  a  week  from 
Salerno  or  Capri.  The  most  frequented  route  is  by  carriage  or 
boat  from  Salerno.  The  cliff-road  from  Salerno  by  Maiori, 
Minori,  and  Atrani  offers  great  attractions ;  the  landscapes  and 
the  sea  views  are  charming. 

Amalfi  stands  on  a  rocky  eminence,  at  the  entrance  of  a 
wild  ravine,  in  the  midst  of  the  most  picturesque  scenery.  Wild 
precipices  form  a  striking  background  to  the  romantic-looking 
town.  Amalfi  is  the  traditional  birth-place  of  Flavio  Gioja,  the 
alleged  inventor  of  the  Mariner's  Compass.  The  town  is  of 
mediaeval  origin ;  it  was  long  an  independent  state  under  its 


AMALFI.  135 

own  doge.       It  now  numbers  little  more  than    a  tithe  of  its 
ancient  population. 

The  following  are  the  chief  features  of  interest : — 

Cattedrale  Sant'  Andrea,  nth  century.  Byzantine  bronze 
doors.  Interior,  with  marble  columns,  mosaics,  etc.  Font,  an 
ancient  porphyry  vase.  Ancient  columns,  sarcophagi,  etc.  In 
the  Crypt  is  the  body  of  St.  Andrew,  from  which  the  celebrated 
Manna  di  Sant'  Andrea  is  said  to  exude.  The  centenary  of  the 
translation  (1208)  of  the  relics  of  the  saint  from  Constantinople 
to  Amalfi  was  celebrated  by  a  pageant  in  1908. 

Bronze  doors  executed  at  Constantinople,  bearing  inscriptions 
in  silver  letters,  dated  1066. 

Colossal  bronze  Statue  of  St.  Andrew 

Michael  Angela  N'accherino. 
Altar,  designed  by        ...  .      Dojnetiico  Fojitana. 

Handsome  Bell-tower  (1276). 

Monastery  of  the  Cappuccini,  now  the  Hotel  Cappuccini. 
Cloisters,  arcades,  and  adjacent  grotto  are  interesting. 

Many  very  pleasant  excursions  may  be  made  from  Amalfi, 
either  with  boats  or  donkeys,  or  on  foot,  the  most  attractive 
being  to 

Ravello,  with  its  Cathedral,  which  can  be  reached  by  carriage 
in  about  i  hour,  or  donkeys  can  be  hired  for  2  fr.  for  the 
journey. 

Ravello  [Hotels — see  p.  iii],  which  now  contains  less 
than  2,000  inhabitants,  was  a  very  prosperous  town  in  the  13th 
century,  with  a  population  of  35-40,000,  thirty  churches,  many 
palaces,  and  several  monasteries. 

The  Cathedral  (Romanesque)  was  founded  in  1086,  em- 
bellished in  11 79  and  1272,  is  now  greatly  modernised.  The 
interior  shows  a  splendid  marble  pulpit,  and  a  marble  lectern, 
both  inlaid  with  mosaics,  as  is  also  the  Episcopal  Throne  in  the 
choir.     The  bronze  doors  are  by  Barisanus  of  Trani. 

Other  churches  can  be  visited  if  time  allows,  but  a  visit 
should  certainly  be  paid  to  the 

Palazzo  Rufolo,  one  of  the  most  ancient  and  best  preserved 
palaces  in  Italy,  dating  from  the  nth  century.  By  permission 
of  the  proprietor  visitors  are  admitted  to  the  palace,  also  to 
the  gardens,  from  the  terrace  of  which,  1,200  feet  above  sea- 
level,  there  is  a  superb  view  (small  fee  to  the  gardener). 


136  NAPLES. 

From  Amalfi  to  Sorrento  a  new  carriage  road  was  opened  in 
1895 — a  lovely  coast  drive  passing  Praiano,  Positano  and 
Met  a  {see  p.  128). 

Leaving  Salerno  by  rail,  fine  sea  and  mountain  views  are 
seen,  and  passing  stations  Ponteca^nano  and  Alontecorvino, 
visitors  to  Passtum  change  at  Battipa^lia  (buffet),  the 
junction  (45^  miles  from  Naples)  for  Paestum  {see  below),  and 
Reggio.  The  train  passes  through  a  marshy  uninteresting 
country  (13  miles),  in  about  |  of  an  hour,  to 

Paestum. 

(Special  excursions  are  arranged  from  Cook's  Office,  Galleria 
Vittoria,  Via  Chiatamone,  Naples  {see  p.  66). 

Paestum  (anc.  Poseido/iia),  in  Italian  Pesto,  was  founded 
by  the  Greeks  about  600  B.C.,  and  became  a  Roman  colony 
273  B.C.  It  was  devastated  by  the  Saracens  in  the  9th  century, 
and  despoiled  of  its  sculptures,  etc.,  by  Robert  Guiscard,  in  the 
nth.  The  majestic  ruins  are  now  the  sole  attraction  of  the 
place.  Wild  vegetation,  stagnant  water,  and  malaria  charac- 
terise the  district,  which  is,  moreover,  infested  by  lizards  and 
small  snakes. 

The  ruins  consist  of  ancient  travertine  Town  Walls,  three 
miles  in  circumference ;  remains  of  Aqueduct  and  Gates  ; 
Tombs,  from  which  many  objects  have  been  transferred  to  the 
Naples  iVEuseum  ;  a  Temple  of  Neptune  (66|-  yards  by  26| 
yards),  with  36  columns  ;  the  so-called  Basilica,  50  columns  ; 
a  Temple  of  Ceres,  with  38  columns  ;  a  few  fragments  of  a 
Theatre,  Amphitheatre,  and  Roman  Temple.  A  walk 
along  the  town  walls  presents  fine  views  of  these  imposing 
ruins.  The  roses  of  Paestum,  that  flowered  twice  a  year,  as 
Latin  poets  sing,  are  no  more  ;  in  their  place  a  luxuriant  growth 
of  fern  and  acanthus  surrounds  these  massive  memorials  of 
Greek  art.  Many  travellers  have  written  enthusiastically  of  the 
ruins  of  Paestum.     Admission  to  the  temples,  2  1.  ;  Sunday  free. 

"Taking  into  view  their  immemorial  antiquity,  their 
astonishing  preservation,  their  grandeur,  their  bold  columnar 
elevation,  at  once  massive  and  open,  their  severe  simplicity  of 
design— their  simplicity  in  which  art  generally  begins,  and  to 
which,  after  a  thousand  revolutions  of  ornament,  it  again 
returns — taking,  I  say,  all  into  one  view,  I  do  not  hesitate  to 
call  these  the  most  impressive  monuments  that  I  ever  beheld 
on  earth." — Forsyth. 


INDEX. 

A 

I'AOK 

P.\GE 

Campo  Santo  Nuovo  ... 

...        64 

Accademia  Pontaniana 

...        23 

Campo  Santo  Vecchio 

...        64 

Albergo  de'  Poveri 

35.  64 

Cangiani 

...     66 

Amalfi               ...          66 

,  128,  134 

Capo  Coroglio 

...     68 

Anacapri       

...   131 

Capodimonte    ... 

6,  14 

Angri 

...   132 

Capo  di  Sorrento 

...   128 

Antignano 

...     66 

Capri  ...        

66,  128 

Aquaiium 

13,  60,  62 

.  Cariati  District 

...     14 

Archives 

34.  53 

Caiotto  ... 

...   127 

Arco  Felice 

..     81 

Carriage  Drives 

5,  65,  66 

Armoury 

•  ••     57 

Casamicciola     ... 

66,  82,  83 

Arrival  at  Naples 

•••       5 

Caserta  ... 

...     65 

Arsenal 

9.  15.57 

Castles — 

Astroni 

...     69 

Capuano 

10,  56 

del  Carmine  ... 

...     56 

B 

dell' Ovo       

15,  56,  128 

Nuovo 

9,  12,  56 

Bagni  di  Tritoli 
Bagnoli 

...     77 
60,  67,  68 

.Sant'  Elmo   ... 
Castellammare  ... 

30,  57 
65,  125 

Baise      13, 

65.  67,  77 

Catacombs 

■  ••     35 

Battipaglia        

...   136 

Cathedral 

10,  15 

Biblioteca  Brancacciana 

...     52 

Cava  dei  Tirreni 

66,  132 

dei  (ierolomini 

••     53 

Cemeteries 

14,  64,  65 

del  Municipio 

•  ••     53 

Charitable  Institutions 

...     63 

deir  Universita 

...     52 

Chemists 

I 

Blue  Grotto      

...  131 

Churches — 

Boats     ...          

Booksellers 

2 
2 

S.  Agnello  Maggiore 
S.  Angelo  a  Nilo     ... 
S.  Anna  dei  Lombardi 

..     35 
...     35 

Boscoreale 

112,  125 

II,  26 

Botanic  Garden 

14,  61 

S.  Antonio  Abate    ... 

...     63 

Bridges — 

Ponte  dell'  Immacolat 

ilia  ...      58 

SS.  Apostoli... 
Ascencione    ... 

...     35 
...     35 

della  Maddalena  ... 

...      57 

S.  Barbara     ... 

...     57 

della  .Sanita 

14,  57 
...     58 

S.  Brigida     ... 

...     35 

di  Chiaia  ... 

S.  Carlo  all'  Arena  ... 

...     35 

S.  Caterina  a  FormelU 

...     35 

c 

S.  Chiara 

II,  19,  63 

Cab  Fares         

4 

Crocelle,  The 

...     35 

Cafes  Chantants 

...     61 

S.  Domenico  Maggiore 

11,  21 

Cafes      

...       4 

Duomo  (si:e  Cathedral) 

Calabritto          

...      12 

.S.  Ferdinando 

9,  n 

Camaldoli  Monastery  ... 

65,  66,  88 

S.  Filippo  Neri 

...     24 

Campo  di  Marte 

...      14 

S.  Francesco  di  Paola 

15.35 

138 


INDEX. 


Churches  [coiitiiiiied) — 

S.  Gennaro   ...         ...  35,  69 

S.  Gesvi  Nuovo         ...         11,  34 
S.  Giacomo  degli  Spagnuoli     35 
S.  Giovanni  a  Carbonara    10,  25 
S.   Giovanni   de'  Pappacoda     35 
S.  Giovanni  Evangelista     ...     35 
S.  Giovanni  Maggiore        ...     35 
S.  Giuseppe  a  Chiaia  ...      35 

S.  Gregorio  ...         ...         ...     35 

Incoronata     ...  ...  Ii,  27 

Madonna  di  Monte  Vergine     67 
S.  Lorenzo    ...  ...  ...     28 

S.  Maria  degli  Angeli         ...     35 
S.  Maria  del  Carmine  8,  35 

S.  Maria  della  Catena         ...     35 
S.  Maria  delle  Grazie  ...     35 

S.     Maria    della    Pieta    dei 
Sangri        ...  ...  ...     36 

S.  Maria  della  Sanita  ...     36 

S.  Maria  del  Pianto  ...     36 

S.  Maria  di  Piedigrotta  ...  36 
S.  Maria  donna  Regina  ...  35 
S.  Maria  la  Nuova  ...  ...     29 


S.  Martino 


14,  30,  57 


Monte  della  Misericordia  ...     36 
Monte  Oliveto  ...  11,  26 

S.  Paolo  Maggiore  ...  ...      35 

S.  Pietro  ad  Aram   ...  ...     36 

S.  Pietro  a  Maiella 35 

SS.  Pietro  e  Paolo  ...  ...     36 

S.  Pietro  Martire     ...         ...     36 

del  Sannazaro  ...  ...     35 

Santissima  Annunziata        ...     29 
SS.  Severino  e  Sosio  ...     33 

S.  Teresa  (Strada  di  Capodi- 
monte         ...  ...  ...     36 

S.  Teresa  ( Largo  S.  Teresella 
a  Chiaia)    ...  ...  ...     36 

Cimitero  della  Pieta    ...         ...     65 

Climate  ...         ...         ...       5 

College  of  Music  ...         ...     52 

Colles  Leucogei  ...         ...     74 

Colonna  dei  Martiri     ...         ...     59 

Conca    ...         ...         ...         ...    128 

Conducted  Tours  in  Sicily     5 
Consuls  ...  ...      1,  12,  14 

Cook's  Offices    1,12,  66,  67, 

74,  77,  84,  89,  136 
Cook's  Carriage  Drives 

5,  65,  66,  67 
Interpreters       ...         ...       5 

Corpo  di  Cava  ...       66,  132 


Corso  Garibaldi 
Corso  Umberto  Primo 
Corso  Viltorio  Emanuele 

Cumce 

Cumana  Railway 

Custom  House 


PAGE 

8 

10 
II 

13, 

14, 

60 

65, 

67, 

80 

I 

13 

67 
8 

D 


Dentists 
Deserto 
Dockyard 


English  Churches 

Environs  of  Naples     ... 

Equa 

Excursions  from  Naples 


Festivals  and  Fetes 
Filangieri  Museum 
Fontana 

Funicular  Railways 
Fuorigrotta 


Galleria  Principe  di  Napoli 
Galleria    Umberto    Primo 
Galleria  Vittoria 
Gragnano 

Grotla  Nuova  di  Posilipo 
Grotta  della  Sibilla      ... 
Grotta  del  Morto 
Grotta  della  Pace 
Grotto  di  Sejano 
Grotto  del  Cane 

H 

Herculaneum 
History  of  Naples 
Hospitals 

I 

Immacolatella  ... 
Industrial  Museum 
Infrascata 


I 

128 

57 


.1,  13 

.     66 

.   129 

65 


4,  62 

-      55 
...     84 

3.  14 
60,  68 


10, 

59 

9> 
59 

59 

60 
126 

68 

76 
69 
81 

69 
69 

65 

89 
6 

14, 

64 

,  8 

58 

15 

14 

INDEX. 

139 

PAGE 

N 

Interpreters  (Cook's) 

5 

PAGE 

Ischia                13, 

66, 

82 

Naples     to     Castellammare, 

Sorrento,  &c. 

125 

L 

to  Pompeii 

...    65,  66,  89 

to      Salerno, 

Amalfi, 

Lago  d'Agnano 

69 

Pffistum 

132 

Lake  Avernus 

76 

to  Vesuvius 

...     .    66,  84 

Lake  Lucrinus 

75 

National  Archives 

34.  53 

Largo  del  Castello 

59 

Library,  The 

45 

della  Carita 

10 

Nazaret 

66 

Lava  Ornaments,  etc 

4 

Nisida  Island 

68 

Lazzarone,  The 

II 

Nocera  Inferiore 

132 

Lettere 

126 

Nocera  Superiore 

132 

Libraries           ...          ..-45 

52, 

62 

Libraries,  Private 

53 

Liceo  Vittorio  Emanuele 

10, 

59 

0 

Life  of  S.  Januarius    ... 

18 

Obelisk 

23 

Lighthouse  on  Molo    ... 

60 

Observatory 

...    55,61,86 

M 

P 

Madonna  deir  Arco 

63 

Passtum 

...       66,  136 

Map      of      Naples       and 

Pagani 

'32 

Environs         facir 

gP 

66 

Palaces — 

Marinella,  The 

60 

Angri 

55 

Massa  Lubrense          ...        i 

28, 

129 

Arcivescovile 

55 

Mercadante  Theatre    ... 

9 

Capodimonte 

...    6,  14,  54 

Mercatello         

10 

Cuomo 

55 

Mercato 

8 

Uonn'  Anna 

55 

Mergellina 

13 

,69 

Fondi 

55 

Meta                 ...           127,  128, 

129 

Gravina 

55 

Misenum            ...          ■•■65, 

67, 

79 

Maddaloni    ... 

56 

Molo  Angioinoe 

.,, 

60 

Ministeri 

55 

Molo  Piccolo 

58 

Reale 

9.  53 

Monastery  of  S.  Chiara 

21 

Tarsia 

23 

Monastery     of    S.     Domen 

ico 

Parco  Margherita 

13.  14 

Maggiore 

23 

Parco  Savoia 

68 

Monte  Barbaro 

75 

Piazza  Cavour 

10,  59 

Montecorvino 

136 

Dante 

10,  59 

Monte  di  Dio 

12 

.  15 

S.   Domenico 

59 

Monte  d'Auro 

125 

dei  Martiri 

...  12,  14,  59 

Monte  Epomeo 

84 

del  Municipio 

...     9,  II,  59 

Monte  Faito 

127 

Paggeria 

15 

Monte  Nuovo 

70 

.  75 

Medina 

...     9,11,59 

Monte  Oliveto 

II 

del  Mercato 

8,  59 

Monte  Sant'Angelo     ... 

127 

Plebiscito 

15.  59 

Monte  Santo                  ...      I 

.  13 

,  14 

Principe  de  Napoli 

13,  60 

Monte  Somma 

63 

Salvator  Rosa 

14 

Museums — ■ 

S.  Ferdinando 

...      9,  12,  14 

Egyptian 

41 

Vittoria 

12,  15 

Filangieri 

55 

Picture        Gallery 

in        the 

National 

10, 

36 

National  Museum 

...     46 

San  Martino 

30 

Piedigrotta 

13,  36,  60,  62 

140 

INDEX. 

PAGE 

P.\GE 

Pignasecca,  The            ...     3, 

10,    13 

Pompeii  {continued)— 

Piliero 

...       9 

House  of  Holconius 

108 

Pizzofalcone 

..     12 

Julius  Polybius... 

117 

Plan  of  Naples  facing  titl 

2  page. 

Marcus  Lucretius 

no 

Pompeii           65,  89,  90,  98,  132 

Meleager 

116 

Academy  of  Music   ... 

..    117 

Pansa     

"5 

Admission     ... 

..     98 

Sallust 

118 

Albergo  del  Sole 

..    121 

Siricus  ... 

no 

.(^rarium 

..    102 

the  Anchor       

114 

Amphitheatre           ...        98,  121 

the  Augustales  ... 

100 

Aqueduct  of  Fontana 

..    107 

the  Black  Walls 

112 

Bakehouse     ... 

..    117 

the  Boar  Hunt 

103 

Baker's  Shop 

..    117 

the  Centaur 

116 

Basilica,  The 

..    103 

the  Chase 

in 

Baths,  Old  Public    ... 

..    112 

the  Faun            ...       113 

"S 

Stabian... 

..    109 

the  Female  Dancers    ... 

118 

Before  the  Eruption... 

..     90 

the  Figured  Capitals  ... 

112 

Casa  degli  Scienziata 

..    Ill 

the  Gilded  Cupids 

116 

Casa  del  Balcone  Pensile 

..  no 

the     Grand      Duke     of 

Chalcidicum ... 

..  102 

Tuscany 

112 

Children's  Tombs    ... 

..   121 

the  Great  Fountain 

115 

Church    of  the    Virgine    del 

the  Labyrinth  ... 

115 

Rosario 

..  125 

the  Little  Fountain 

"5 

Circular  Temple 

..  104 

the  Musician     

117 

City  Walls 

..  124 

the  Nereids 

116 

Crypto  Porticus,  The  ... 

102 

the  Sculptor      

107 

Curiae 

..  102 

the  Surgeon 

118 

Curia  Isiaca  ... 

..  108 

the  Three  Floors 

118 

Custom  House 

..  118 

the  Tragic  Poet 

114 

Domitiana     ... 

..  124 

the  Vestals        

118 

Early  History  of 

..     90 

the  Vettii          

119 

Eruption,  The 

••     93 

with      the      Hanging 

Excavations  at 

..     96 

Balcony 

no 

Forum  Nundinarium 

..   106 

How  the  Cities  were  Buried 

94 

Forum,  The  ... 

••     99 

Lupanar,  The 

no 

.  Forum,  Triangular           104,  108 

Macellum 

no 

Fullonica,  The 

..   114 

Measures,  Standard 

100 

Funeral  Triclinium  ... 

..   120 

Museums      ...     97,98,112, 

124 

Gate  of  Ilerculaneum      119,  122 

Old  Public  Baths     

112 

Nola      II 

I,  122 

Pantheon 

JOO 

Stabise 

..   106 

Plan  of  Description ... 

98 

Gates,  Streets,  and  Walls 

..   122 

Pompeii  Vale           

125 

Granary,  Public 

..   100 

Porta  della  Marina   . .  .97,  98, 

122 

Greek  Temple 

..   104 

Porta  di  Ercolano    ...       119, 

122 

Guides           

..     98 

Porta  del  Vesuvio     ...       122, 

123 

House  of  Adonis 

..   117 

Porta  di  Nola           

122 

Albino 

..   119 

,,      ,,  Sarno         ...       122, 

123 

Apollo 

..   117 

Prison,  The 

100 

Ariadne...          ...• 

..   Ill 

Public  Granary        

100 

Castor  and  Pollux 

..   116 

Ramparts 

124 

Championnet    ... 

••   103 

Round  Tomb 

120 

Cornelius  Rufus 

..   108 

School  of  the  Gladiators     ... 

106 

Glaucus 

..   114 

School  of  Verna 

102 

INDEX. 


141 


PAGE 

Pompeii  {contiuued) — 

Senaculum    ..           ...          ...  loi 

Soap  Shop    ...         ...          ...  118 

Soldiers' Barracks   ...          ...  106 

Stabian  Therma;     ...          ...  109 

Strada    dell'   Abbondanza 

102,  103,  104,  108,  124 

deir  Anfiteatro             ...  121 

Consolare           ...     117,  1 24 

del  Lupanare    ...          ...  no 

di  Mercurio       ...          ...  1 14 

Nola       ...          ...      Ill,  124 

Stabiana    106,  no,  III,  121 

Street  of  the  Forum...         ...  124 

Augustales        ...         ...  in 

Mercury             ...          ...  124 

Theatre  ...       104,  108 

Tombs                ...       98,  119 

Street  of  Fortune      in,  113,  124 

Streets  ...         ...  ■.123 

Temple  of  yEsculapius        ...  107 

Apollo  ...         ...         ...  99 

Augustus           ...         ...  100 

Fortune 1 12,  113 

Hercules           ...          ...  104 

Isis         ...         ...         ...  107 

Jupiter 99 

Mercury            loi 

Quirinus             ...          ...  loi 

Theatre,  Great          ...          ...  104 

Small     ...         ...         ...  105 

of  Jupiter  and  Juno      ...  107 

Theimopolium          ...          ...  109 

Tombs  of  the  Arria  Family  121 

Tomb  of  Cenis  and  Labeo...  121 

Cerinius  Restitutus      ...  119 

Lucius  Libella  ...          ...  120 

Mamiffi...         ...          ...  119 

Nasvoleia  Tyche           ...  120 

Quintus...          ...         ...  120 

Scaurus...          ...          ...  120 

Servilia   .           ...          ...  120 

the  Children     ...          ...  121 

the  (iarlands     ...          ...  1 20 

Treasury,  The          ...         ...  103 

Triangular  Forum    ...          ...  104 

Triumphal  Arches   ...       lOO,  114 

Valle  di  I'ompei       ...       125,  132 

Via  Marina  ...          ...          ...  98 

Vicolo  del   Balcone  Pensile  1 10 

dei  Dodici  Dei...         ...  103 

Villa  of  Cicero          ...         ...  120 

Diomedes          ...         ...  121 


PAGE 

Pompeii  (continued) — 

Virgine  del  Rosario  Church      125 
Walls  ...  ...  ...    124 

Porta  Alba         10,  58 

Capuana        ...         ...  10,  58 

del  Carmine  ...  ...  8,  58 

Nolana  ...  ...      ....      58 

Piccolo  .' ant'Angelo  ...    128 

Pontecagnani>  ...  ...    136 

S.  Gennaro  ...  ...      10 

Portici  ...  ...  ...     89 

Porto  d'lschia  ...  ...     83 

Mercantile  ...  ...     58 

Militare     58 

Piccolo      58 

Posilipo  ...         12,  13,  65,  67 

Positano  128 

Post  Offices       ...         -..1,9,  11,56 
Pozzo  Piano       ..  ...  ...    127 

Pozzuoli       ...  I,  13,  60,  65,  67,  69 

Pozzuoli       I,  13,  65,  67,  69,  82 

Amphitheatre            ...          ..  73 

Armstrong  P'actory  ...          ...  72 

Cathedral      ...         ...         ...  70 

History          ...          ...          ...  69 

Mineral  Springs       ...          ...  72 

Mole,  The 72 

Piazza  Vittorio  Emanuele  ...  70 

Piscina  Grande         ...          ...  73 

S.  Gennaro  Monastery        69,  74 

S.  Paul's  Visit           70 

Stadium         ...         ...         ...  74 

Statues          70 

Temple  of  Anlinous             ...  73 

Diana     ...         ...          ...  73 

Jupiter  Serapis  ...          ...  70 

Neptune            ...          ...  72 

Nymphs             ...          ...  72 

Theatre          ...          ...          ...  74 

Tombs            ...          ...          ...  74 

Villa  Cardiff)             73 

of  Cicero           ...         ...  T}, 

Licastro             ...         ...  73 

Lusciano           ...         ...  73 

Praiano              ...          ...          ...  12S 

Private  Parties  (Sicily)              .  5 

Procida  66,  82 

Protestant  Cemeteries              ...  65 
Protestant  Churches     ...       I,  12,  13 

Pugliano             ...           ...          ...  1 

Public  Places    ...          ...          ...  59 

Pulcinella           ...                       ...  61 

Punta  di  Campanalla  ...          ...  128 


142 


INDEX. 


Railways 

Ramparts 

Ravello 

Reclusorio,  The 

Resina 

Restaurants 

Rettifilo 

Revigliano 

Riviera  di  Chiaia 


pa(;e 
.  2,  3,  13 
-  57 
66,  135 
14,  64 
...  89 
...  4 
...  II 
...  125 
12,  60 


S.  Januarius,  Life  of  . 

Salerno 

Sanita  Bridge    ... 

San  Martino  Museum. 

Sant'Agata 

Sant'Agnello    ... 

Santa  Lucia 

Santa  Maria  Maggiore 

Santa  Maria  a  Castello 

Scafati 

Schools  ...  2,  10 

Sebeto  River     ... 

Situation  of  Naples 

Society   for  the    Protection 

Animals 
Solfatara,  The... 
Sopra  la  Vaccine 


Sorrento 

Stabiiie 

Starsa,  La 

Statues 

Steamers 

Strada  del  Duomo 

Strada  di  Chiaia 

Strada  Foria     ... 

Strada  San  Carlo 

Streets 

Stufi  di  Nerone 


05,  127, 


9,  10,  II,  52 
•  2, 


...     18 

•••  133 

...  14 

...  30 

...  128 

...  127 

15,  128 

...  132 

...  128 

...  132 

.  14,  15 
...  60 
...  7 
of 

...  64 
...  74 
...    128 

28,  129 
...  1 26 
•••     75 

.  54,  57 

82,  128 
10,  15 

,  14,  15 
10,  14 
...       9 

■••  59 
...     77 


Taxi-cabs 
Telegraph  Offices 
Telegrafo 
Termini 
Theatres 
Toledo,  The     ... 
Tomb  of  Virgil 
Tombola,  The  ... 
Torre  Annunziata 
Torre  del  Greco 
Torregaveta 
Torretta,  La 
Tours  from  Naples 
Tramways   ... 


3.  9, 


1,56 
128 

...  128 

12,   60 

I 

9,  II 
3,67 

63 

88 

88 

I 

13 

5,65 

u 


L^niversity 


52 


Vesuvius  ...         ...  66,  87 

Vesuvius  Railway  (Coolc's) 

66,85 


Via  Amedeo 
Via  Caracciolo 
Via  del  Mille 
Via  Partenope 
Via  Roma 
Vietri 

Vico  Equense 
Villa  Nazionale.. 
Villa  Pausilypon 
Villa  Quisisana 
Villa  Reale 
Villa  Sarno 
Vomero,  The    .. 


Zoological  Station 


9,  II 


I3>  14 
12,  60 
12,  14 
..  60 
12,  1.3 

•••   133 

127,  129 

n,  60, 62 

...  69 
...  126 
...  60 
...    69 

i3>  14 


62 


ADVISETISEMENTS.  143 


r 


H.  Roberts  &  Co., 

ENGLISH  and 
AMERICAN 


iil.llllllll[|lill:llillllllllill>llllllllillllll 


Prescriptions     accurately     prepared. 
Complete    stock    of     Proprietary 

Medicines. 

Perfumery      and      Toilet      Articles. 
Invalid    Requisites. 


NAPLES:  FLORENCE 

Via  Vittoria  21-22.  Via  Tornabuoni  17. 

Telephone    19  62.  Telephone    5.28. 

ROME: 

Corso  Umberto  417.418. 

Telephone    11.98. 

ESTABLISHED    1843. 


I4i  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


Algiers    (North  Africa). 

Hotel  Continental. 

Beautiful    View.  Full   South. 

Modern   Comfort. 

□  n 
■ 

PENSION  from  35  frs.  No  Taxes. 

AMALFI. 

HOTEL     CAPPUCCINl     CONVENTO. 

ONE  OF  THE  BEST  WINTER  RESORTS  IN  EUROPE. 

This  IS  an  enchanted  land  !  Paestum  with  its  ruins  lies, 

Round  the  headlands  I  at  away  And  its  roses  all  in  bloom 

Sweeps  the  blue  Salernian  bay  Seem  to  tinge  the  fatal  skies 

With  its  sickle  of  white  sand  ;  Of  that  lonely  land  of  doom. 
Further  sUll  and  furthermost 
On  the  dim  discovered  coast  H.  W.  LONGFELLOW. 


For  a  number  of  years  the  favourite  resort  of  H.M.  The  Queen  of  Sweden. 

Is  the  ancient  monastery  famous  for  its  mcomparably  beautiful  situation 

above  the  south  end  of  Amalfi,  ten  minutes'  walk  from  the  mam  carriage 

road  along  the  sea  coast. 

The  hotel  has  extensive  grounds,  with  a  wealth  of  flowers  and  fruit  trees. 

Here  is  the  Monk's  embowered  walk  of  world-wide  fame  where  Longfellow 

wrote  his  poem  of  Amalfi. 

Unique  as  a  restful  health  resort.         NO    DUST— NO    NOISE. 

Open  all  the  year  round.         !\'o  branch  house. 

A.  VOZZI,  Proprietor. 

N.B.-Proprietor  of  the    HOTEL  DE  L0NDRE3-LA  CAVA. 


A  I)  I  'J'J  R  T I  SEME  NTS.  1 45 


r 


BISKRA, 
ALGERIA. 

ROYAL  HOTEL 

(On  the  Fringe  of  the  Desert). 
THE    ONLY    UP-TO-DATE   HOTEL. 


Apartments  with  private  bath,W.C., 
etc.  Latest   desirable   comfort. 


CAPRI. 

Hotel  Grotte  Bleue 

MARINA    GRANDE. 

This  Hotel  IS  specially  recommended 
to  Travellers  for  its  comfort  and  good 
management.  Luncheon  is  served 
according  to  arrival  cf  steamers  from 

Naples. 

Garden  and  Terrace    overlooking    the 

sea,   facing  Vesuvius.     Luncheon  and 

Dinner  served  on  the  Terrace.    Charges 

from  30  to  35  Lire. 

(i.  E.  MERCEDI. 

Proprietor. 


/46  A  I)  J  'J':  R  T  si:  men  ts. 


CAPRI. 


The    Best    Hotels. 


QUISISANA  &  GRAND  HOTEL, 

TIBERIO  PALACE  HOTEL, 
HOTEL  LA  PALMA. 

LA  CAVA. 

HOTEL  DE  LONDRES 

Open  all  the   year   round— HOTEL  ERSTEN    RANGES. 

SKATING-RINK  -  LAWN-TENNIS. 

Teleolione  N.    10. 
A  favourite  summer  resort    Steam  Heating  and  Electric  Light  throughout* 

This  town  lies  about  half  way  between  the  eastern  shore  of  the  in  i 
of  Naples  and  the  City  of  Salerno,  in  a  wonderfully  picturesque  regioBi, 
which  is  also  historically  most  interesting. 

This  Hotel  has  b:en  very  favourably  known  since  it  was  established  in 
1850,  and  is  in  the  most  convenient  locality  for  the  excursions  to  Paestum, 
Amalfi  and  Pompei. 

There  are  many  charming  drives  over  the  hills.  One  of  the  most 
attractive  is  to  the  famous  old  abbey  of  Cava,  which  can  be  visited  any  day. 

A.    VOZZI,   Proprietor. 


N.B.— Proprietor  of  the 
HOTEL  CAPPUCCINI,  AMALFI. 


A  h  I  'E  U  TIS  KM  EX  TS.  147 

NAPLES. 

GRAND      HOTEL 

SITUATED  IN  THE  FINEST  AND  MOST 

SELECT     PART     OF     NAPLES,     WITH 

MAGNIFICENT  VIEWS  OF  THE  TOWN, 

VESUVIUS   AND  THE  BAY. 


Re-opened  January,  1922,  entirely  renovated. 

Most     up-to-date.    New    and    perfect    Sanitary 
arrangements  throughout. 

300    beds,    125   private    bathrooms.      Hot   and 
cold  runnmg  water  m  every  room. 

Restaurant    Frangais   with    terrace    on  the  Sea. 

American  Bar.     Billiards.     Orchestra. 

Steam  Heating  throughout. 

Telegraphic  address:  "C      f^      Ti^m.         T\ /f 

Granotel  Naples.  '^ '  ^'  -Kota,  Manager. 

T.  Dombre,  Cen.  Inspect. 

BRANCH  HOUSES. 


^ 


("Grand  Hotel  Quisisana. 
Capri  <  Tiherio  Palace  Hotel. 

(.HotellaPalma. 

ij„ /Grand  Hotel  de  Russie. 

Home  -^  ^^,^1  f^3,^3,i^ 

Lake  of  Coino     Grand  Hotel  Villa  d'Este. 
Sestri  Levaote    Grand  Hotel. 


/  Hotel  B'i  lol 
I  Grand     Hotel    Save 
Genoa  -!  iVajeslic. 

I  Hotel  Londres  and 
V  Conti 


Continental 
'enegal. 

PassoMendo'al  Grand  Hotel  iVendola. 

e   _•  f  Grand  Hotel  Panhons. 

Semmenng       \  ^^^^j  E^her^oR  Jol  ann. 


Tyrol  J  Grand  Hotel  Penegal. 


148  ADVE  R  TfSEMEy  TS. 

NAPLES. 

BERTOLINI'S     PALACE     HOTEL 
AND   RESTAURANT. 

Leading    Firsl-Glass    Establishment,    with    every 
modern    improvement. 

A  "  Home  from  Home  "  for  American  and 
English  Families.  Suites  and  Bedrooms 
with  Bath  and  W.C.  Quietest,  highest  and 
healthiest  situation.  The  best  panoramic 
view  in  the  world.     Open  all  the  year  round. 


Tel.  Address  :  BERTOLINIS-NAPLES.  Lieber's  Code  Used' 

NAPLES. 

HOTEL  CONTINENTAL. 

QUAI     PARTENOPE     NEW     EMBANKMENT. 


First-Class :    Every    modern    comfort    combined 

with  moderate   charges.      Rooms  with 

private  bath  and  W.C. 

Opposite  the  Pier  for    Sorrento  and  Capri 

Steamers,  and  two  minutes  from 

Cook's  Offices. 

Renovated  and  enlarged    1 92 1 . 


A.    GARBRECHT, 

Managing  Proprietor. 


.4 1)  1  "ys"  R  T/S  KM /■■  N  7'.s-.  1  4;t 


EXCELSIOR 

HOTELS. 

ROME 

and 

NAPLES. 

Ihe    Smartest    Hotels 

i                   in    Italy. 

1 

1 

(OF  THE 
RITZ-CARLTON  GROUP  OF  HOTELS) 

^.          ^ -^J 

loO 


ABVEH  TISEME^^TS. 


NAPLES. 


^ 


PARKER'S  HOTEL 

.     .     .     Situated  on  the  High     .     ,    . 
CORSO     VITTORIO      EMANUELE. 


THE    MOST    ATTRACTIVE 
PART     OF      THE      CITY. 


World    Known    for    its    Comfort  and    Good    Cuisine. 


.Va,./cs   C5  SKI  fmm  Harl^tr  s  /.o.c/. 


NAPLES. 

Grand  Hotel  du  Vesuve. 


FIRST    CLASS. 


Central  Situation.  Full  south  on  the  Bay. 

Splendid  View. 

140  Rooms.  70  Bath  Rooms. 

O.  G.  FIORENTINO,  Proprietor. 
Branch  House : 

GRAND  HOTEL  VITTORIA. 


WORLD  RENOWNED. 


SORRENTO. 


ADVEPTf-^F^MESTS.  151 

MICHAELSEN'S 

ART  SHOP  &  BOOK-STORE 

No.  2  Via  Chiatamone,  Naples 

(not  just  opposite  Cook's  Office,  but  across  to  the  left). 


A  Speciality  is  made  in  Beautiful  Water- 
Colour    Sketches    by    Local    Artists. 

(Guaranteed  despatch  al!  over  the  world.) 


BAEDEKER'S    AND    OTHER    GUIDE   BOOKS. 

TAUCHNITZ  EDITION.  NELSON'S  CONTINENTAL  LIBRARY. 

KODAKS,    FILMS    DEVELOPED. 

STATIONERY,    PHOTOGRAPHS,    POSTCARDS, 

SORRENTO-WOODWORK,     MOSAICS, 

FLORENTINE    LEATHERWORK. 

BOOKS    OF    VIEWS,    ETC. 


"  There  is  in  Naples  a  Danish  bookseller,  who  will  tell  any  travelling 
Englishman  all  he  wants  to  know  about  modern  English  books.  Whether 
the  Dane  knows  very  much  about  books  himself  is  another  matter,  but 
he  knows  quite  enough  to  act  as  guide,  philosopher,  and  friend — and  long 
practice  has  made  him  a  master  of  these  parts — to  the  tourist.  He  has 
another  quality,  more  valuable,  and  one  which  enables  him  to  sustam 
the  others,  that  of  being  thankful  for  and  eager  to  profit  by  such  information 
about  books  as  the  traveller  may  give  him  in  passing.  Thus,  what  he  has 
learnt  from  the  man  who  left  yesterday  he  hands  on  to  the  man  who 
arrives  to-day.  And  what  he  knows  about  English  books,  he  knows 
equally  ab  )ut  French,  Italian,  and  German  books,  not  to  mention  those 
produc"d  by  his  own  particular  nation.  Among  other  nations,  I  have  not 
followed  but  I  am  sure  he  ould  prattle  pleasantly  abiut  them  all.  Where 
shall  we  find  such  sn  English  book-seller  as  this?"  —  Academy, 
\U-i   18.   1907. 

Any  General  Information  giaaiy  giv«n. 


152  AnVERTTSJCMK  V  TS. 

GIORGIO   SOMMER,  ^ 

NAPLES. 

Photographer  to  H.R.H.  the  King  of  Italy 
and  H.R.H.  the  Duchess  of  Aosta. 

Sale  Saloons  and  Exhibition  :    VIA  CALABRITTO  2  &  3. 

Telephone  :  51-48.  Established  1857. 


Largest  Photograph  Establishment 

The  best  and  most  extensive  collection  of  Photographs, 
Views,  Architectures,  Sculptures,  Paintings  of  the 
important  Places  and  (.  alleries  in  Italy,  Sicily, 
Tunis,  Malta,  Sw.tzerland  and  Tyrol. 

K^nHilVf  Eastman's    Kodaks,    Films.    Development,     Printing,    Dark 

JVUUctlV..         Rooms.  Enlarging,  etc. 

¥   otll'O'nn      QlirlfiG     °^    ^'^    Views    and    the    celebrated    collection 
l-<ailieill     OllClCS     Qf     Ferret's     volcano     pic- ures     of     Vesuvius. 
Solfatara.  Stromboli.  Messina.  Etna.  Teneriffa,  and   Kllauea. 

Awarded  the  onli/  silver  Medal  at  the  Jubilee  Exhibition.  Frankfort  o-M. 

Fine    Postcards.         Largest  selection. 

ALBl  MS    OF    NAPLES    AND 
ENVIRONS  AND  O.-   SICILY. 

iVia,TDle    dlUQlO   I     Reproductions   and  Copies    of    Masterpieces. 

^llvfiT"     Reproductions    of   Pompeian    and   Roman    Antiquities.   Vases. 
Oil  vex      Spoons,  etc. 

Water  Colours— Gouaches    Ceramics    Paintings-Majolica. 
ANTIQUITIES. 


^ 


OWN    MANUFACTURE. 

Artistic   Bronze   Foundry. 

Electric  Light   f.tted  to   Statues  and   Antique   Lamps. 

Reproduction  and    Copies   of  all    Masterpieces  of    Italian  and  Foreign 
Muse.ms,        The    largest    and    most    important     foundry     in    Naples. 

The  only  establishment  for  the  reorod    ction     nd  sale  of  the  "  NARCISSUS  " 
modelled  by  Prof.   Vincenzo   Gemilo. 

GRAND    PRIX    PARIS    EXHIBITION     1900. 

Awarded  seie'al   Gold  Medals   al   the   Principal   Exhibitions. 
CATALOGUES.  Telegraphic  Address  :  SOMMERARTE,  Naples. 


J 


.1  /)  I '  /•;  irri  s  km  /•;  .v  ts.  1 53 


J.  Lennon  iS;  Mac  Murray 

Succ.  F.  G.  GREEN  &  Co., 

PIAZZA  DEI    MARTIRI,  VIA  PACE  N.  1. 

NAPLES. 


LADIES'  AND  GENTLEMEN'S 
TAILORS. 


Telephone  No.  17  92. 


^ 


PASQUALE    SCALA. 

Einest  Neapolitan  Wines.       Exportation. 
NAPLES,  Via  Chiaia  135-136. 

Established    n  1828. 


Specialities 

Capri  Wine,  Lacrima  Crlstl  of  Vesuvius, 
Falerno,  Vesuvius,  Moscato  of  Syracuse, 
Malvasia,  Amarena  of  Syracuse,  Marsala, 
Sparkling  Lacrima  Cristi. 

KSK      FOR     SPECIAL     EXPORTATION      PRICE    LIST. 


)5'1  AD VE R TrSEMK  \TS. 


MARTUSCIELLO 

GLOVE 
MANUFACTORY. 

EXPORTATION,  WHOLESALE  &  RETAIL. 

Factory  &  Chief  House,  Via  S.  Lucia,  99, 101,  103,  105 

NAPLES. 


Branches:  GALLERIA  VITTORIA, 

NEAR  COOK'S  OFFICE, 

Via  Chiaia,  261,     Via  Roma,  315. 

Telephone:    S    Lucia  31-65. 


PALERMO. 


Hotel  de  France. 


First   Class  Family  House. 


A  D  VEIi  TiHEMENTS.  \  55 


PALERMO. 

GRAND  HOTE  DES  PALMES 

First  class  Hotel.  150  Rooms.  50  Bathrooms. 
Private  slttmg  rooms.  Apartments.  Central 
heating.  Very  healthy  and  central  position, 
near  all  sightseeing.  Famed  for  its  excellent 
cuisine  and  cellar.  Winter  and  Summer 
gardens.     Garage. 

OPEN  ALL  THE  YEAR  ROUND. 

M.    &    V.    MARCUCCI    &    PAGGIARIN, 

Managing   Proprietors. 


PALERMO  (Sicily). 

Villa  Igiea  Grand  Hotel 


Splendid  situation  on   the  Mediterranean. 
Full  South  Exposure. 

DANCES 

CONCERTS 

TENNIS  COURT 

YACHTING 


U.  Galanti,  Manager. 

^  . 


156  J  I)  I  ■  /.-  /,'  77  .s-  /.; .]/  /.'  .\  7'.v. 


f 


ROME. 

HOTEL  ROYAL 

FIRST    CLASS. 


Situated  in  the  Finest  Part  of  Rome, 
near  the  Royal  Palace  and  close  to 
the  English  and  American  Embassies. 


LATEST  IMPROVEMENTS.  ALL  MODERN  COMFORT. 

SORRENTO. 

HOTELS     TRAMONTANO, 
TASSO  &  SYRENE. 

TARANTELLA   pertormed  every  night  during  the  Season. 

LIFT    FROM    LANDING-PLACE. 

ELECTRIC  LIGHT  AND  STEAM  HEATING  IN  ALL  HOTELS. 


Patronised  in  April,  1907.  by  H.M.  King  Edward  VII.  and  H.M. 
Queen  Alexandra. 

These  hotels  are  situated  in  the  midst  of  large  gardens  and  extensive 
Orange  and  Lemcn  Groves,  facing  Mount  Vesuvius  and  the  finest 
panorama   in  the  World.  q    TRAMONTANO,   Proprietor. 


\ 


SORRENTO  :  Best  centre  for  Excursions  in  the  vicinity  of  NAPLES 
G.  TRAMONTANO    Banker  at   Hotel  Tramontano. 


AT))'ERTlSEMi:yTS.  157 

SYRACUSE. 

GRAND  HOTEL  DES  ETRANGERS 

FIRST  CLASS. 

Unrivalled  for  its  healthy,  quiet  and  central  position 
overlooking  the  Harbour,  the  Public  Garden  and 
Promenade.  Newly  built  with  latest  improvements. 
Richly  furnished.  Lift.  Central  heating.  Electric 
Light  throughout.  Private  suites  with  Bath-rooms. 
Large  terraces  and  beautiful  garden.  Moderate 
terms.  Advantageous  arrangements  for  prolonged 
stay.     Open  all  the  Year  round. 

7  ELEPHOKE :    N.  22. 
Cook's    Coupons    accepted. 

CAV.  L.  CAMPISI, 

Proprietor. 

TAORMINA  (Sicily). 

BRISTOL    HOTEL. 

OPEN  ALL  THE  YEAR  ROUND. 

First     Class      Family      House.  Splendid 

situation.  Most  central  and  quiet.  Very 
near  to  the  Greek  Theatre  and  the  English 
Church.  Full     South.  Facing     Etna. 

Only  House  with  moderate  charges  offering 
every  possible  modern  comfort,  heating, 
baths,  etc. 


Cook'.i  Coupons  accepted.  A.  MAZZULLO, 

Maniiger. 


\. 


158  .-/  b  I  E  U  TISKMEy  TS. 


TAORMINA. 

Grand  Hotel  Castello  a  Mare. 

The  most  Modern  up-to-date  Hotel  of  Taormina. 


World    Renowned    Unrivalled    Position. 
Full  South.  Splendid  Park. 

Private  Apari:ments  and  Suites  of   Rooms  with 
Bath  and  W.C.  GARAGE. 

Write   for    information    to  P.   Siligato,    Proprietor. 

TAORMINA. 

San  Domenico  Palace  Hotel, 

Thoroughly  first-class    house — 
The     Leading    Hotel. 

Most  interesting  Ancient  Castle. 
Large  Park  of  Orange  and  Lemon 
Trees  overlooking  the  great  Ioni>n 
Sea  and  the  Valley  of  Mount  Etna. 

TENNIS  COURT.  Steam  Healing. 

Apartments  with  Bath  and  Toilet. 

M.   &  V    MARCUCCI   &    PAGGIARIN   &  CO..  Managing  Proprietors. 


A  I)  I  K  li  TISEMKNTS.  15?> 


TUNIS. 

MAJESTIC  HOTEL. 

VEDRINE  FRERES,  Proprietors. 


FIRST  CLASS  IN  EVERY  RESPECT. 

American  Bar.  Restaurant.  Orchestra. 

Apartments.  Private  Bathrooms. 

Toilet,  W.C. 

TUNIS. 

Tunisia  Palace  Hotel 

NEWLY   OPENED. 

THIS  magnificent  newly  built  Hotel  is  the  finest  and  largest  in 
town.  Central  situation.  150  Rooms  and  Saloons.  Apart- 
ments with  Baths  and  Douches.  Hot  and  Cold  running  water 
in  all  rooms.  Every  possible  comfort.  Lift.  Electric  Light. 
Readmg  and  Smokmg  Rooms.  Large  Hall.  American  Bar. 
Superior  Cooking.  Restaurant  of  the  highest  order.  Prospectus 
with  terms  and  full  partxulars  on  application  to 

F.  TUOR,  Proprietor. 
In  Summer,  DISENTISERHOF-DISENTIS 

Ct.  des  Crisons,   Switzerland. 

1st  CLASS  CLIMATIC  STATION. 

1150  M.  above  Sea  Level 

BEAUTIFUL  SPRING  SEASON  FROM   ISt'i  JUNE. 


IGO  A  I)  I  Kli  TH^EMKNTS. 


THE 


OCEAN 

Accident  and  Guarantee  Corporation, 


LIMITED. 


DIRECTORSc 

E.   Roger  Owen,  Esq.,  C/iairnian. 
Arthur  M.  Asquith,   Esq.,  D.S.O. 
Jkrkmiah  Colman,   Esq.,  J. P. 
The   Right  Hon.  the  Eakl  of  Dunmore,  V.C. 
Richard  J.  Palll,  Esq. 
The   Hon.  Jasi'EK  N.  Ridley. 
Sir  Clarence  Smith,  J. P. 
W.  SINGLETON   HOOPER,  Alanager  and  Secirtary. 


Assets  -       £7,472,880 

Claims  paid      -    £25,000,000 


Accidents    and     Illness. 

Employers'     Liability. 

Fidelity    Guarantees. 

Fire  and  Burglary. 

Motor  Cars. 

Public     Liability. 

Inspection   and    Insurance 

of     Boilers,     Engines, 

Electrical    Plant    and    Lifts. 

Executorships    and    Trusteeships. 


ibcaD  ©ttice: 
MOORGATE,     LONDON,     E.C.2. 

V 


Harrison  &  Sons,   Ltd.,  I'rinters  in  Orcinary  to  His  Majesty,  St.  >hirtin  s  Lane,  W.C.  2 


y 


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