Google
This is a digital copy of a book that was preserved for generations on library shelves before it was carefully scanned by Google as part of a project
to make the world's books discoverable online.
It has survived long enough for the copyright to expire and the book to enter the public domain. A public domain book is one that was never subject
to copyright or whose legal copyright term has expired. Whether a book is in the public domain may vary country to country. Public domain books
are our gateways to the past, representing a wealth of history, culture and knowledge that's often difficult to discover.
Marks, notations and other maiginalia present in the original volume will appear in this file - a reminder of this book's long journey from the
publisher to a library and finally to you.
Usage guidelines
Google is proud to partner with libraries to digitize public domain materials and make them widely accessible. Public domain books belong to the
public and we are merely their custodians. Nevertheless, this work is expensive, so in order to keep providing tliis resource, we liave taken steps to
prevent abuse by commercial parties, including placing technical restrictions on automated querying.
We also ask that you:
+ Make non-commercial use of the files We designed Google Book Search for use by individuals, and we request that you use these files for
personal, non-commercial purposes.
+ Refrain fivm automated querying Do not send automated queries of any sort to Google's system: If you are conducting research on machine
translation, optical character recognition or other areas where access to a large amount of text is helpful, please contact us. We encourage the
use of public domain materials for these purposes and may be able to help.
+ Maintain attributionTht GoogXt "watermark" you see on each file is essential for in forming people about this project and helping them find
additional materials through Google Book Search. Please do not remove it.
+ Keep it legal Whatever your use, remember that you are responsible for ensuring that what you are doing is legal. Do not assume that just
because we believe a book is in the public domain for users in the United States, that the work is also in the public domain for users in other
countries. Whether a book is still in copyright varies from country to country, and we can't offer guidance on whether any specific use of
any specific book is allowed. Please do not assume that a book's appearance in Google Book Search means it can be used in any manner
anywhere in the world. Copyright infringement liabili^ can be quite severe.
About Google Book Search
Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers
discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web
at |http: //books .google .com/I
EASY AND ELEGANT BOOTS.
N. THIERRY,
LADIES' AND GENT'S
BOOT & SHOE MASUFACTUME
AT PARIS AND ST, OMER, FRANCE.
DEFOTS:
f70, qUABRMT, RE&EIfT STREET, W.
™U8, GRESHAM STREET, E,C.
MaaBhester: 2, ST. AHB'S SQUARE.
Liverpool; 5, BOLD feTBEET.
LADIES' TOURIST BOOT.
263.
OEMT'S TOURIST BOOT.
28s.
ALWAYS EEADT, OVER 25,000 PAlfiS OP BOOTS AND SHOES
TU CHOOSE FEOM, all equal to best bespoke itork. Any kind of Boot
or Shoe mada to order at 2h. jier pnir ratra, for apecial lasts.
Please Note. 1]
there is atioV
ited, and marked in plaii
NOTICE TO JRAVELLERS.
Accidental Mtli or Iiquries of all Kinds
INSURED AGAINST BY THE
OCEAN, RAILWAY, & GENERAL ACCIDENT ASSURANCE
AND GUARANTEE COMPANIES, LIIVIITED.
HEAD OFFICES:— MANSION HOUSE BUILDINGS, LONDON.
BI-I'PO'W'UE.ED BY BFXlOIJiJL, .A.OT OB' I»il.H.I.IA.^«E!3SrT.
Tickets coTerin^^ the risk of travelUng by any kind of oonTeyanoe throughout
Europe may be had at any of Thos. Cook & Son's Offices.
£1,000 available for One Month ... Premiam 5/-
£600 „ „ ... „ 3/-
1/6
10/.
5/.
2/6
£1,000 available for Three Months . ...
(general ^ccilrent ^olictea,
£1,000 available for Twelve Months ... Premium 25/-
Bailtijas policies for ifiliafeg in tfje ©nitelr Itinglrom.
£1,000 available for Twelve Months ... Premium 6/-
Throughoufc Europe ... 8/-
Double these Premiums secure a Weekly Allowance of 10/- for every £100 assured
in cases of Disablement.
^[ccilientg at Sea.
POLIOEM TO OB PBOM ANY PoBT IN THE WOBLD AT VJBBY LoW BaTES.
GUARANTEE POLICIES ISSUED TO PERSONS IN SITUATIONS OF TRUST.
POLICIES ISSUED AT THE OFFICES OF THE COMPANY,
AHD BT
THOS. COOK ft SON, LUDQATB CIRCUS ; and 445, WEST STRAND, LONDON.
BIRMINGHAM— Stephenson Place.
MANCHBSTER-43, Piccadilly.
JilVEKPOOL-U, Banelagh Street.
LEEDS— 1, Royal Exchongre.
BRADFORD— 8, Sxchansre, Market Street.
SHBPPIELD-CliangeAUey Corner. . . _ ^_
DlTRLIN-45, Dame Street. \ "S^^ XCflBfc-'W^'^f*^**^'**-'^
EBISBVRQK- 9, P. ince<* Street.
GLASGOW— 165, Buchanan Street.
PARIS -15, Place da Havre.
COLOGNE— 40, Domhiof .
BRUSSELS'^ Ckteie du BaV.
GENEV A.--%^, unA ^\Qb^<%v.
BEMEMBEB LAIOLOTTOH'S
PYRETIC SALINE,
AVD HATE IT UT YOUS HOUSES.
[t is most invigoratiBg, vitalisiftg, and refreskinp. Gives instant relief in
Headaches, Sea or Biiiens Sickness, and quickly cmres the worst form of
EmptiTe or Skin Complaints. The various diseases arising from Climatic
causes. Constipation, the Liver or Blood Impurities, Inocnlation, and the
resnlt of breathing air infected with Fever, Measles, or SMALL POX,
are frequently prevented, and these diseases cured by its nse. Any person
who has already Small pox should take it, and be kept in a cool and
•darkened room to prevent its lea^ng any trace on the features.
The numerous statements and letters relating to its marvdloms effect
as a positive cure in TYPHUS, SCARLET FEVER, SMALL POX
and other BLOOD POISONS, are most remarkable, and are painfnlly
soggestive of ^[seat neglect, whenever the PYRETiC SALIN£ is not
employed in these diseases.
-"'It fiimishes the Blood with its lost Saline oonstknenits.''— Dr.
MORGAK, M.D., &C.
SEA VOYAGES. — Itis4i veiw valnable accomcparament, and should
on no account be omitted. It instantly allays the sickness.
WORTHLESS IICIT ATIOKS are now being offered to the
public, the only merit of which is « lalael -and wrapper, with a transposition
of the sentences and words of mine, a colourable imitation — m fact, a
FRAUD en m3rseflf and the public. For <he protectnon of the public against
Fraudulent Imitations, I have applied for, and again obtained a per-
petual injunction, with costs, against several -Chemists.
Sold by all Ckemigis and the Haker^ in Patent glaes-stoppered
Bottlefi at 28. 6d., 4b. 6d.y lis., «nd 81b. each.
/
LAWPLOWGH'S CONCENTRATED LIME JUJCE SYRUP,
From the Fresh F«niit, as imported (or the Hospitals, a perfect luxury ;
ibrms wiith the addition of Lamplough's Pyretic Saline a most delicious and
invigorating draught for the deKcate and invalid, of special service in
Scrofula^ FeverSy and Rheumatism^ and a low or altered condition of the
system. Most Chemists sell the above with the Pyretic Saline.
In Patent glass-stoppered BottleSi at 28. and 48. 6d.
H, LtAMPLtOUGH,
^^« Holborn Hill, LONDON, E.G.
COOK»S
TOURIST'S HANDBOOK
FOK
SWITZERLAND.
Zo-Sxv \ ^ ^'•^l
COOK'S
TOURIST'S HANDBOOK
SWITZERLAND.
~ ■ JUN IfSO .
LONDON :
THOMAS COOK & SON, Lodo4tb Circds, E.C.j
SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & Co.
NEW YORK : THOMAS COOK Jk SON, 061, BROADWAY.
GENEVA: THOUAS COOK ft SON, 90, RUB DU Rh5nE.
187^.
CONTENTS.
Introductory. page
Luggage, I ; Custom-house Examinations, I ; Passports, 2 ; Lan-
guage, 2 ; Money, 2 ; Cook's Circular Notes, 2 ; Money Tables,
3 ; Time-tables, 3 ; Postage, 3 ; Fees, 4 ; Hdtels and Hotel
Coupons, 4 ; Routes, 4 ; Time for Visiting Switzerland, 5 ;
Guides, 5 ; Scope of Work, 6 ; Cook's Travelling Coupons, 6 ;
Churches, 6 ; English Churches, 6 141$
Switzerland.
Area, 7 ; Surface, 7 ; Geology, 8 ; Vegetation, 8 ; Animal Life,
8 ; Manufactures, 9 ; Language, 9 ; Religion, 9 ; Special
Objects of Interest, Mountains, Waterfalls, Passes, Glaciers,
Valle3rs, 9, 10 ; Goitre and Cretinism, 10 ; The Swiss People,
Wrestling Matches, 10; History, 1 1 — 13. • , , . 7 — 13
Basle 15
From Basle to Schaffhausen 2t
Neuhausen . • • • 22
Falls of the Rhine • . 22
Schaffhausen » . 24
From Schaffhausen to Zurich • • 24
From Schaffhausen to Constance, by Rail • • • • 25
From Schaffhausen to Constance, by Boat .... 25
Constance 26
Lake of Constance ...•••.•. 2S
From Constance to Coire (Chur) •«.,.. 30
Rorschach « . 30
Ragatz •• ^^'^
COIRB »...%« '^
^ CONTENTS.
PAGE
From Basle to Zurich 54
L By Waldshut and Tuigi 54
II. By Olten and Turgi 34
III. By Rheinfelden, Stein, and Bragg 36
ZOrich 37
Environs of Zurich 41
Uetliberg 41
Uetliberg Railway 42
From Zurich to Coire 43
The Lake of ZOrich. 43
The Lake of Wallenstadt 47
From ZOrich to Einsiedeln, Schweiz, and Brunnen . • 48
Einsiedeln 48
From Zurich to Glarus 52
Wesen to Glaras • 5^
Glaras to Dissentis or Trons 52
Glarus to Ilanz or Films for Coire . • « • • • 53
From Zi/RicH to Romanshorn -. . • « • • • 53
From Zurich to Rorschach (by St Gallai) .... 54
From Zurich to Lucerne, by Rail 54
The Lake of Zug. $5
From Zurich to Zug, by the Albis 56
From Zurich to the Rigi and Lucerne, by Horgen and the
Lake of Zug 57
From Basle. TO Lucerne . .57
Lucerne . . . . 58
Lake of Lucerne 6j
Filatus 69
Rigi . • 70
From Lucerne to Brieg or Sibrre (for Geneva), by the Fufca
Pass . 74
The Rhone Glacier 75
Brieg 77
From Lucerne to Brienz and Meiringen, by the BrOnig Pass • 78
From Meiringen to Interlaken . . . . . .80
Falls of the Reichenbach .81
Rosenlaui Glacier. 81
Great Scheideck 82
Grindelwald 83
TheFaulhom 84
Wengem Alp « BS
••
CONTENTS. vii
pXge
Lauterbrunnen 86
From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier, by the Grimsel . . 87
Handeck Falls 88
From Brienz to Berne 90
Lake of Brienz. 90
Falls of the Giessbach 91
INTERLAKEN 92
THUN 95
Lake of Thun 94
From Thun to Leuk and Susten, by the Gemmi Pass . .96
From Basle TO Berne 97
BiENNE TO Berne 97
Berne 98
From Berne to Lucerne, by Langnau and Escholzmatt . . 107
From Berne to Lausanne, by Fribomg ..... 108
Fribourg 109
From Basle to Neuchatel, Lausanne, and Geneva. . .111
NeuchateL 113
Bienne, Chaux-de-Fonds, and Neuchatel . . . . .116
FONTARLiER to Lausanne, by Vallorbes 118
Lausanne to Martigny .119
Bex 120
St Maurice . • . 120
., Vemayaz 121
Martigny 122
Bouyeret TO Martigny 122
Geneva 124
Environs of Geneva 131
The Lake of Geneva, Northern Bank . . • • 133
,. „ Southern Bank 142
Lausanne 134
Environs of Lausanne 137
Vevey . . . . » 138
Clarens 140
Chillon 141
From Geneva to Chamouny . 145
Chamouny AND Environs 14^
Mont Blanc .... 151
Tour of Mont Blanc 153
AosTA TO Martigny, by the Great St. Bernard . . • • V^
From Chamouny to Martigny, by the Tete li^oVi^ . * vn
viU CONTENTS.
PAGX
F&OM Chamouny to Martigny, by the Col de Balme • •159
BfARTIGNY TO ZERMATT l6o
St. Niklaus 160
Zermatt 161
The Rifielbeig and Goraer Grat 162
The Hbmli 163
Cimadijazi 164
Monte Rosa 165
Environs of Zermatt - • • 165
From Zermatt to Vogogna, on the Simplon .... 166
Macugnagna 168
From Zermatt to Chatillon 169
The Theodule Pass 169
From Martigny over the Simplon to Arona . • .170
Lucerne OVER THE St. GoTHARD TO CoMO . .172
,, COIRE OVER THE SpLUGEN TO COLICO (Como) . . IJJ
Splugen to Bellinzona, by the San Bernardino Pass. . 180
„ CoiRE TO Andermatt, by the Oberalp i8a
„ CoiRE TO THE Engadine, by the Julier Pass . . . 184
„ CoiRE TO THE Engadine, by the Albula Pass . • • 185
The Engadine 185
Samaden 186
Pontresina 187
The Bemina Pass 188
The Stelvio Pass 188
The Italian Lakes 189
Lago Maggiore 189
Borromean Isles • 190
The Lake of Como X91
,, Lugano 193
„ Varese . 193
M Orta 193
Appendix —
Festivals^ Fetes, Fairs, etc. • • 194
Heights of Mountains, etc 204
Time and Cost of a Tour . 1 . . • . . . 206
Specimens of Tours • • • • . 207
JJsi of Hotels ••;••••••• 219
COOK'S
HANDBOOK FOR SWITZERLAND.
^tdte&ndot^.
Luggage. — As conveyance of luggage forms an important item in the expenses
of a continental tour, this ** necessary evil *' should be condensed as much as may
be. If possible^ the tourist should only take a small trunk or valise, that he
can carry in his hand. To those who cannot do this, a strong leathtr portman«
teau is recommended. It should be of simple construction, and possess a good
lock, so that it can be opened in an instant for Customs Examination. In France,
as a rule, each passenger Is allowed 661bs. of luggage free, in Holland and many
parts of Germany 5olb8., but in some districts of Germany, and in Switserland,
Belgium, and Italy, all luggage must be paid for (except that which the passenger
carries in his hand], unless stated otherwise upon the ticket.
Custom House Examinations are generally made at the station
nearest the frontier. Thus, between Belgium and Germany luggage is examined
at Venders ; but if registered through to Cologne by first-class express train, it is
examined at Cologne. Passengers must always be present at the Custom House
Examinations, and hand their keys to the examining officer. The Custom?
Examination is one of the greatest drawbacks to the pleasures of foreign travel,
but passengers vdll do well to remember that civility costs nothing, and may pur-
chase much, and that the custom house officers are merely performing a duty^
perhaps as disagreeable to themselves as to the traveller. The following is a list
of stations at which baggage is generally examined :—
Ala
Avricourt
Arlon
Belfort
Basle
Bellegarde
Bodenbach
Brussels
Camerlata
Como
INTRODUCTORY.
Domo d'OisoIa
LiUe
Salzbergen
Dinan
Lindan
Schafthausen
Eger
Lugano
Spliigen
Elcen
Luxemburg
Tilburg
Emmerich
Modane
Toumay
Eydtkuhnen
Moutcron
ThionviUe
Furth
Oderberg
Udine
Friedrichshafen
Pagny-sur-Motelle
Valenciennes
Goritz
Paris
Verviers
Hazebrouck
Passau
Venlo
Hendaye
Pontarlier
Ventimille
Iran
Roosendaal
Zevenaar
Kuistein
Salzburg
And the ▼ariousSea and Channel Ports.
Passports are not at present really required by British travellers on the
Continent (except for visiting Russia, Turkey, Spain, and Portugal), but at the
lame time a passport is frequently useful, in order to obtain admission to certain
Museums, to obtain letters from the Paste Restante^ and to establish identity when-
ever required. The cost of a passport is very trifling, and may be obtained, if
desired, through Thos. Cook and Son.
Language. — So many thousands flock annually over most of the routes
described in this book, that nothing save the mother-tongue is absolutely essential.
English is spoken in all the principal hotels, and interpreters may be met with at
the principal railway-stations. Of course, a knowledge of French and German
\rill prove of great advantage, and those who explore remote regions will find it
indispensable, but no one need hesitate to visit Switzerland on the score of not
knowing anything save English. An hour or two spent in learning French
and German numerals, and a few phrases, will enable these to combat cab*
drivers and others who might be disposed to take them in. *^ The Tourist's
Shilling Conversational Guide,** in English, French, German, and Italian, by
Dr. J. F. Loth, will be found useful (Cook and Son, Ludgate Circus, or their
agents).
Money, if taken in large quantides, should be in circular notes, which may
be obtained fi-om many of the London bankers.
Cook's Circular Notes. Messrs. Cook and Son issue Circular Notes
of the value of £$ or ^f lo sterling, which are accepted at all their continental
agencies, and by the principal hotel keepers. The chief advantages are safety, ar
they cannot be cashed without the holder*s endorsement, and convenience of
exchange, at any hour, in small sums of the currency of each country at the fiill
rates of exchange. Foreign money can also be obtained of Thos. Cook and Son. .
English sovereigns are received almost everywhere, and in Switzerland
may generally be exchanged without loss. Foreign currency is always puzzling^
and it will be well for every tourist to familiarize himself with the following
tables :—
TIME AND MONEY TABLES. j
France, Bklgivm, SwrraitLAND, and Italy.
I franc (in Italy Lira) ss about 9)d.
5 franc piece ( „ 5 lire) == ,, 48.
20 franc piece ( „ ao lire) = ,, 1 6s.
10 centimes ( „ 10 centesime) = m I<U
100 centimes = i franc; 100 centesime s i lira.
Italian paper currency is much depreciated in value
North Gikm any
1% pfenninge = I silbergroschen*
z| silbergroschen = 3d*
10 silbergroschen == is.
I mark = 100 pf. = is.
3o^silbergroschen = i thaler = 38.
6 thalers 20 silbergroschen = i English sovereign.
20 mark piece (gold) = I English sovereign.
South Germany and Austria.
£1 = 11} South German florins = 10 Austrian florins.
l6s« = 9 fl. 20 kreut. S. Germany = 8 ,, i^
I Austrian florin = 100 kreutzers = 2S.
10 kreut. pieces = ^ florin.
6 kt. ps. S, Ger. = 9 kt Austria = about 2jd,
i| fl. S. Germany = ij fl. Austria = 3s.
I fl. „ =85 kreut. = IS 8d.
30 kr. „ = 50 „ = lod.
3 » » = 4 » = ^^'
The Austrian paper currency is much depreciated, the discount constantly
varying.
Holland.
5 cents = about id,
too „ = I florin or guilder = „ is. yd.
I gold ducat = „ 9s. 4d.
I gold 10 florin piece = „ i6s. 6d.
Time-Tables. — ^The oflicial rime-tables of the railway companies should be
consulted upon every available opportunity, as alterations are constantly taking
place ; and though such alterations are carefully watched, it is impossible for any
general time-table to guarantee complete accuracy. *' Cook's Continental Time-
Tables and Tourist's Handbook '* is published at is. ; post-free, is. 2d.
iPostage. — By the recent postal arrangements, letters can be sent to Fiance,
Switzerland, Italy, etc., at z^d. under the half-ounce^
^ INTRODUCTORY.
Fees are given by English and Americans with far too lavish a hand, and
much annoyance is caused to other travellers, and injury done to the people in the
countries visited, by this habit. Porters carrying luggage will generally make
extordonate demands. Ask the hotel proprietor to pay what is a fair sum. At
churches and galleries half a franc is quite enough for a couple of persons, as a
rule, although this may sometimes be increased to a franc. A sw, or any small
coin, is sufficient for the legions of beggars besetdng one's way j and probably one
Aranc put into the box of a local society for relief of the poor would be better spent
than two francs distributed amongst them in sws. Make a rule of never going
out without a supply of small coins, however, but never use them lavishly. Let
the traveller make a favour of giving a sou, aud he will be respected. Never ^ve
SL sou to one beggar in the presence of another.
Hotels abound, and, as a rule, are good. Unfortunately, a system prevails
abroad of charging ^cy prices, and hotel keepers are not different from their
brethren in other branches of business. An agreement should always be made, and
even then it is well to have the bill eveiy other day or so, in order to see how
things are going. Messrs. Cook and Son supply
Hotel Coupons j and as they are available at Hotels which can be well
recommended, every one should provide himself with them. In these pages.,
reference is only made to hotels where these Coupons are accepted. (Full par-
ticulars as to Hotels and Hotel Arrangements by Coupons mil be found in the
Appendix.)
The advantages of taking Hotel Coupons may be briefly summed up as fol-
lows:—
I. Time, expense, annoyance in bartering, and ultimate dissatisfaction, are
saved by going to a well-recommended Hotel.
II. It is a great drawback to pleasure to arrive in a foreign town beset by por-
ters, commissionaires, and rabble, a perfect stranger, and without any definite
idea where to go.
III. Letters fi'om home, or telegrams, may be found upon arrival at the Hotel,
thus saving trouble or expense in sending for them to the Post Office.
IV. The charges are all fixed, thus obviating the chance of imposition, and
the disagreeable task of having to drive a bargain at each stopping* place.
y. The charges being fixed at the lowest sum to insure good accommodation
at one uniform rate, the tourist is enabled to count the cost of his tour before
starting.
VI. Travellers with coupons, bespeaking accommodation by letter or telegram,
are always provided for, even in the busiest seasons, if they inform the hotel
keeper that they have coupons.
Routes should be carefiiUy selected, and plans well digested, before starting j
and in order to assist in this matter, a list will be found in the Appendix which
will supply all necessary information. It will be sufficient to mention here the
;»rincipal routes*
SCOPE OF WORK.
Via Paris.
London to Pari«, via Newhaven, Dieppe, and Rouen
,f „ via Folkestone, Boulogne, and Amiens
„ „ via Dover and Calais
There are five principal routes from Paris to Switzerland, namely-^
Paris to Strasbourg and Basle, by Epernay, Chalons, and Nanqr
„ to Basle, by Troyes, Chaumont, and Belfort
„ to Neuchatel, or to Lausanne, by Tonnerr, Dijon, and Pontarlier
„ to Geneva, by Dijon and Macon
Via Hollamp, Bilgium, and the Rninb,
London to Harwich, Boat to Rotterdam
„ Harwich, „ Antwerp
y, Queenboro* „ Flushing (Vlessmgen)
„ Dover, „ Ostend
Or by Boat direct from London to Rotterdam
„ fy Antwerp
n M
Ostend
The routes from either Rotterdam, Antwerp, Flushing, or Ostend are Yaxiooi^
Those who wish to get quickly into Smtzerland should go by the Luxembourg
route direct to Basle or Zurich.
For the Rhine journey the steamboat should be taken at Cologne or Bonn,
and quitted at Bingen or Mayence.
Travellers who wish to combine a visit to the Black Forest with the Rhine
trip should proceed to Heidelberg, thence to Baden, and by the new Baden States
Railway to Singen and SchafFhausen ; or continue by rail from Baden to Freiburg,
and then on foot or by carriage through some of the most charming scenery of
the Forest to Waldshut and Basle.
For detailed information as to all these routes see '' Cook's Tourist^ s Handbook
to Holland, Belgium, and the Rhine,** and <* Cook*s Tourist's Handbook to the
Black Forest."
Time for Visiting Switzerland.— From the beginning of May to the
end of October. Mountain climbers will find the end of July and the month of
August most suitable for their excursions.
Guides. — Certificated Guides may be found at all the principal centres
for excursions on application to the Hotel Proprietors. The fee should
not exceed eight francs for a day, but it is necessary to make «.V»K^bxk«.
Guides are altogether unnecessary for such ^iteWAjtateii \x«.0» *» ^^^^ '^^^
Stheideck, GrinMcl, etc.j but ht gUdei TOUte%^ «i eMfes.\JA. ' '"""
5 INTRODUCTORY.
ire invaluable. Twenty poonds' weight of baggage may be given to the guide cu
carry ; but this is the limit, and it is best to give him as little as possible.
Scope of ^Work.— It is not intended in this work to give precise infbr
madon as to excuraons among the High Alps, nor to mark out minutely the
thousand excursions that may be made to obscure and comparatively unknown
places. For such there are special works provided. In the present volume such
information only is given as it is thought will be found useful to the ordinary
Tourist
Cook's Travelling Coupons are now so well known and universally
usedy that they need but little description. Suffice it to say, that if there are
advantages in knowing of cheap, comfortable, and well recommended Hotels
wherein to rest, there are a hundredfold more in having all the difficulties of travel
made smooth. The most inexperienced may avail themselves of them without fear
of not being able to get on, and the most experienced take them as the simples^
easiest, and cheapest means of travelling.
Churches should be visited in the morning, as they are then open free, and
can be viewed with greater pleasure on account of the light. Moreover, it is a
great saving in expense, as later in the day a fee is demanded or expected by the
sacristan who opens them for visitors. It will not be taken unkindly by the
tourist to be reminded that the many attractions in Continental churches some-
times cause him to forget that they are places of toorsbip ; and if for his own
convenience and pleasure he visits them at times when they are frequented by
worshippers, he should be careful to abandon the use of opera-glasses, guide-books,
and other accessories, if they are likely to prove a hindrance to the devotions of
others. Unfortunately, this has been disregarded so much — and notably by
English and Americans — that it has been found necessary in some churches to
write over the entrance, <f Honour is due to God's house.'* A word to the wise
ia enough.
Bnglish Churches are not mentioned specially in this work, as in every
Hotel frequented by the English, notices are abundant in which the time and place
of service are recorded. Changes are often made, too, both as regards the place
and the time, according to the season of the year, but no difficulty will be found
in obtaining accurate information.
toit^erlank
Area, Population. — Switzerland, or Schweiz (Germ), Suisse (Fr.),
Svirrera (Ital.), Helvetia (Latin), includes an area of nearly 16,000 square
miles, being about 206 miles in length, by 139 at its greatest breadth. Its bound-
aries are, in most places, grandly defined by river, lake, or mountain. The popu-
lation in 1877 was 2,776,035.
Surface. — The surface of Switzerland is very varied, rising from 678 feet
on the shore of Lago Maggiore, or 800 feet on the banks of the Rhine at
Basle, to 15,226 feet at the summit of Monte Rosa. More than half the extent
of Switzerland is occupied by the Alps ; between these and the Juras to the west
is a plain, with a hilly country to the northward.
The Alps are ranged about a central spot west of the St. Gothard Pass, where
about a hundred square miles of rocks, etc., lie above the limits of perpetual snow,
and the Galenstock, Gletscherhorn, Dichterhorn, and other important peaks, rise
to the height of ten or twelve thousand feet. The waters from this elevated
region pass by the Rhine to the .German Ocean, by the Rhone to the Mediter-
ranean, by the Po to the Adriatic, and by the Danube to the Black Sea,
From this mountain knot a chain extends northward towards the Lake of
Lucerne, including the Titlis (11,406 feet), and the Urner Rothstock (10,063
feet). Southward runs a chain of mountains averaging from 6000 to 7000 feet.
Westward run the Bernese and Lepontine Alps, whilst the two branches of the
Rhaetian Alps diverge to the east.
The basin of the Upper Rhone (Canton Valais), and the Valley of the Rhone,
|2 miles in length, are important features of the map of Switzerland. As far as
Brieg, the Rhone Valley is about half a mile wide. Near Visp it widens, and
several very interesting lateral valleys join it. The river finally debouches into
Lake Leman, through about eight miles of swampy ground very little higher than
the level of the lake.
The Bernese Alps north of the Rhone Valley form one of the grandest fea-
tures of Switzerland. Six hundred square miles of ice and snow and savage moun-
tain scenery lie between the valley of Hasli and the valley of Kander. The dis-
trict is intersected by two or three fine valleys, and abounds in numerous lofty
peaks, splendid glaciers, mountain passes, torrents, etc., etc., of which attracdoiui •
the more striking will be found duly noted in 8ubse<^«&X. ^^'^'^ ^"i >^a2&^«$fi05SA«
g SWITZERLAND.
The Pennine Alps lie west of the Simplon Pass, stretching southward to Monte
Rosa (15,226 feet), and then westward to Mont Blanc. They include Mont
Cervln (14,764 feet), and several other peaks of somewhat less altitude. Towards
the east and south the ascent Is steep, and cultivation creeps up the base of lofty
mountains $ but towards the north for many miles the elevadon is above the line
of perpetual snow.
The Lakes of Switzerland are another prominent natural feature. The Lake
of Geneva, with its diversified scenery and varied associations, literary, legendary,
and historic ; the Lake of Lucerne, surrounded by the sacred ground of Svnss
history — at one point charming with its tranquil beauty, at another awe-inspiring
with its rugged grandeur $ the Lakes of Zurich, Thun, and Brienz, so thoroughly
characteristic of Switzerland j and the frontier and Italian Lakes of Lugano,
Como, etc., which may easily be included in the tour, are amongst the prin-
cipal.
Geology. — In all the lofHest Alpine chains granite is found mostly in con-
junction with gneiss and mica slate. In many parts, especially on the Great
and Litde St. Bernard, and south of the St. Gothard, granular limestone is abun-
dant $ and the celebrated mountain limestone appears on the Diablerets, Dent du
Midi, etc ; and Jura limestone has become a term descriptive of a special variety.
Particles of gold are found in the sands of several of the Smss rivers, but not in
sufficient quantity to repay the search. In the Grisons are some abandoned lead
and copper mines. Iron is widely diffused through the whole country. Rock-
salt is found in Vaud ; alabaster, marble, su'phur, and gypsum are also named
amongst Svnst productions ; and the asphalte (from the Val de Travers, etc.) has
become of late a prominent object in the streets of London and other great cities.
There are many mineral springs, as at Leuk, St. Moritz, etc. Coal of an
inferior quality is found in the Cantons of Fribourg, Vaud, Basle, and Thurgau.
Vegetation, Agriculture, etc. — Few countries present a more varied
aspect in this respect than Switzerland. Seven distinct regions mark the differing
circumstances under which cultivation is carried on—
I. Up to J 700 or 1800 feet the vine flourishes.
II. The hilly or Lower Mountain Region, up to about aSoo feet, contains
abundance of walnut-trees and good meadows.
III. The mountain district, up to 4100 feet, is chiefly distinguished by its
forest timber. The pastures and fields of barley and oats are good.
IV. The sub- Alpine region, up to 5500 feet, is characterized by pine forests
and good grass land ; a few kitchen vegetables are grown.
v. The lower Alpine region extends to 6500 feet, and is the region of the
celebrated Alpine pastures.
VI. The Alpine region, where, in proximity to glaciers, etc., only a stunted
vegetation is found. Summer lasts about five or six weeks.
VII. The region of perpetual snow, above 8000 feet.
Animal JUife. — ^The homed catde of Switzerland are nearly a million in
tiumber, a large proportion of which are milch cows. The chief game are the
SPECIAL OBJECTS OF INTEREST. g
chamois, hare, marmot, and partridge. Fish, espedally trout, abound in the lakes
and rivers; the salmon is found in the Aar, the Rhine, and Lake Zurich
Manufactures, etc. — There are manufactures of silks, ribbons, and
cotton goods in various parts of Swdtzerland, the principal being at Zurich and
Winterthur. Basle exports silk ribbons to a large exten^ also leather, paper, and
tobacco. Geneva b famous for its watches and musical boxes. Watches are also
largely manufactured in Lode and La Chaux-de-Fonds.
Xianguage. — German dialects are spoken in about three-fourths of
Switzerland. In Geneva, Vaud, Neuchatel, and parts of Berne, Fribourg, and
Valais, French is the language (written and spoken] of the educated classes. In
Ticino, and some of the southern valleys, Italian is spoken i The dialects known
as Romansch and Ladin prevail through about half the Grisons.
Religion. — Calvinlstic Protestantism predominates, but there is no State
Church, and all religions are tolerated. Since 1847 the Religious Houses have
been suppressed.
Special Objects of Interest. — Besides the delightful character of
the ever-varying Swiss scenery, the country has many attractions of a special
character.
The Mountains are an unfailing source of enjoyment. General views of
mountain scenery can be obtained from two or three points in the city of Berne,
from the Dole near Geneva, the Faulhorn near Grindelwald, Weissenstein, near
Soleure, the Ri^ near Lucerne, etc., etc. Nearer views of mountain scenery are
obtained from various points in the Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa districts, also in
the Bernese Oberland, etc. The grand views from the Belle Alp by Brieg ; the
Brevent byChamouny ; theEggischom by Viesch ; the Piz Languard by Pontresina j
and the Sidelhom near the Grimsel, and many others, are within the reach of
moderate climbers without serious difficulty.
Waterfalls are very numerous. The Fall of the Rhine at SchafHiausen
that of the Aare at Handeck (full, lofty, and grandly situated), the misty Staub-
bach, Schmadribach, Reichenbach, Giessbach, and many others, will be duly noted
at their proper places.
The Mountain Passes are of three kinds — i. Carriage Passes, such as the
Simplon, St Gothard, Splugen, etc. ; 2. Mule Passes, as the Col de Balme,
Grimsel, Scheideck, Gemmi, etc. ; 3. Glacier Passes, as the Strahleck, Tschingel,
S. Theodule, etc. Surpassingly grand are the ravines by which some of these
passes are approached ; as, for instance, the Via Mala and the Gasterenthal. The
sloping meadows seen at lofty elevations in crossing these lofty elevations are called
** Alps," whence the appropriation of the name to the mountains themselves. Here
and there are the rude structures for dairy purposes known as Chalets, where
refreshments can generally be obtained.
The Glaciers are perhaps the most wondertul of Alpine marvels. Around
the loftiest peaks the snow, filing and accumulating in the adjacent ravines,
becomes crystallized by ever-increasing pressure into solid ice, and is forced dA^nii*
ward by constant accumulation towards the valleys. At QtVEi^t^^'iniN.^^C^tkaxstxsQX);^
10 SWITZERLAND.
Zermatt, etc^ these Olacien can be inspected at the eztremitiei of the off-
shoots thus thrust downwards towards the culdrated districts. But to realise thttr
true wildness and grandeur, the traveller must venture to explore the Ssas or Id
{EisTneer, Mers de Glace) from whence they spring. Of these Ice Seat the
most remarkable are those surrounding Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa, and the Finster-
aaihorn. The Litter is probably the largest ice-field in Europe, covering over iio
square miles, and sending out more than a dozen branches towards the valleys
below. By the constant pressure, alternate melting and freezing, and other causet»
these Glaciers are kept in constant motion, disappearing to feed the rivers at their
bases, whilst afresh supplied fix>m the regions of eternal snow at their summits.
Down the middle or along the sides of the Glaciers are the huge accumulations of
rubbish thrown up by the glacial motion, and known as Moraines. The deep
fissures common in most Glaciers are called Crevasses. The Avalanchis, as
probably most readers will already be aware, are huge masses of snow and ice, dis-
engaged by the heat of the sun, and rolling down the mountain-side.
The Valleys of Switzerland are exceedingly beaudful. The Haslithal,
Simmenthal, Vale of Sarnen, and many others, will be found to afford much
enjoyment, especially to those who prefer tranquil and yet romantic loveliness,
without the fatigue and difficulty of ascending great heights.
Goitre and Cretinism are physical complaints still prevalent in some
parts of Switzerland. The former is a remarkable glandular swelling in the neclc,
the latter a species of idiocy. These complaints are limited to certain low-4]^iig
districts, and appear to be owing to deficient sanitary arrangements or local exhala-
tions.
The Swiss People, says Laing, << are the Dutch of the mountains {
the same cold, unimaginative, money-seeking, yet vigorous, determined, energetic
people." In the parts most frequented by tourists the Swiss are certainly notorious
for their efforts to extort money from the travellers ; but probably other tourist-
haunted spots nearer home might furnish instances of similar rapacity. The Swiss
are great lovers of freedom, and at the same time display an unbounded reverence
for antiquity ; and amongst the upper classes they are exceedingly reserved and
exclusive in their social anangements.
The Government of Switzerland consists of a Federal Assembly, comprising
a Nadonal Council and a Council of States — the former containing one delegate
for every 20,000 inhabitants, the latter having two members for each canton. This
Assembly elects a supreme Federal Council of seven. Every adult male in Switser-
land has the franchise at the age of twenty, and is bound for military service.
The country consists of 22 political divisions, called Cantons, of which the
Grisons, containing 2900 square miles, is the largest, and Zug, containing 85 square
miles, the smallest. The Swiss population for the whole country is 165 to the
square mile, or 244 to the square mile if Alpine Switzerland be excepted. Geneva
is the most densely populated canton, having 847 to the square mile \ whilst Ia
the Grisons, the least populous, there are only 33 to the square mile.
Wrestling Matches {Sckwingfeste) between the men of various Cuitoiit
HISTORY II
and the Tir Federal, or general rifle-shoodng contest, held once in two years,
and similar to our annual Volunteer gathering at Wimbledon, are interesting occat-
fiions. The dates of some of the more important will be found in the Travellers'
Calendar at the end of this volume.
History. — Not in the pages of the historian, but beneath the sur^ce of her
lakes, are found the earliest records of human existence in the country now called
Switzerland. As we shall have occasion to show hereafter, the earliest inhabitants
seem to have been a mysterious race, who dwelt in houses reared on [dies above
the waters of the lakes, and who used stone where we should now use
metal.
But leaving this primeval race, history shows us the Rhaeti, of supposed
Etruscan origin, retreating before the advances of the Celtic Helvetii, into the
mountainous regions of Eastern Switzerland. Then, in the first century of our
era, Rome comes upon the scene, brings Helvetii and Rhaeti alike into subjection,
founds colonies, constructs roads, and spreads Latin civilization. Save only during
the brief rebellion of a.d. 69, promptly suppressed by Cecina, the country re-
mained subject to the Roman power till the downfall of the latter.
And now, as in other outskirts of the Roman Empire, the native population,
led to rely on Roman protection, and enervated by Roman luxury, became speedily
subjected to the fierce, barbaric tribes that were swarming from the overcrowded
regions to which Roman prowess had hitherto confined them. The Burgundians
occupied Western Switzerland, and made Geneva their capital, the fierce Alemanni
settled on the banks of the Rhine, and Theodoric with his Goths seized moun-
tainous Rhaetia.
The Franks next appear under Clovis, driving out the Alemanni in a.d. 496,
defeating the Burgundians in a.d. 534, becoming masters of all Helvetia, and, as
the Italo-Gothic kingdom declined, conquering Rhaetia also. These conquests
culminated in the great Empire of Charlemagne, who introduced the feudal system.
Meanwhile, Christianity had been disseminated amongst the Burgundians in the
fifth century, and amongst the Alemmni by Columbus and his disciples in the
seventh century. These monks preached the gospel, destroyed the idols, built the
chapels at St Gall, Dlssentis, Zurich, and elsewhere, introduced the cultivation of
the ^ne and com, and in other ways aided in the culture and enlightenment
of the people.
At the dissolution of the Frank Empire, Eastern Switzerland became united to
Suabia, and Western Switzerland to the kingdom of Burgundy. Early in the
eleventh century the Burgundian power declined, and Rudolph III., in ioi6,made
over his kingdom to the Emperor Henry II. of Germany : for the German
Emperors the Dukes of Zaringia acted as vicegerents } and these latter found it
their policy to protect the towns, in order to curb the old Burgundian nobles, who
continued troublesome. From this period, Berne, Fribourg, and other important
places date their origin.
But the feudal lords of the soil, in course of time, g;c«vi t&!i»«, '^^«i&^ '»s^
less mindful of the imperial rule j and to preserve t^idc ^&2M;t^<e&^ ^<& ^''«>a» ^x«^
12 SWITZERLAND.
towns were compelled to treat with the nobles. One of the most importuit of
these was Count Rudolph of Hapsburg, with whom Zurich and the three Cantons
of Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden entered into alliance. He asristed the towns in
maintaining their independence, and, after becoming Emperor, continued the same
policy.
His son Albert pursued a different line of conduct— attempted to make
Svatzerland an integral part of the Hapsburg possessions, and sent Austrian
baHifli to oppress the country. The Swiss rose in revolt The three forest Can-
tons, led on by Arnold, and Furs^ and StaufFacher, confederated to protect their
liberties in 1307 (see p. 67). To this period belong the Tell legends.
For more than two hundred years Switzerland maintained a struggle for inde-
pendence, defeating the Austrians at the memorable fields of Morgarten in 1307,
Sempach in 1386, Nafels in 1388, and at the Stoss in 1405. Equally impottsnt
were the victories over the feudal nobles at Laupen in 1339, and over Charles the
Bold and the Burgimdian forces at Grandson and Morat in 1476.
In 1499, having refused to aid Maximilian in his war with France, that
Emperor struck the final blow at Swdss independence in what is known as the
Suabian war. But 6000 Confederates defeated 15,000 Austrians at Domach, and
henceforth the country was only nominally subject to the Emperors, and even thii
connection was formally relinquished in 1648.
During these long external struggles Switzerland had increased and internally
developed. Lucerne joined the confederacy in 132X, Zurich and Glarus in 1351,
Zug and Berne in 1352, in which year a Federal Diet was established. In 1422,
Valais allied herself as an independent State. Soleure and Fribourg came in in
1481, and Basleand SchaflFhausen in 1501. In 151 3 Appenzell was received,
thus completing the thirteen Cantons which constituted Switzerland till the French
Revolution in 1798.
The Reformation of Religion was commenced in Switzerland by the pro-
clamation of the new doctrine at Zurich in 1523 ; and under the teachings of
Zwingli, and subsequentiy of Calvin and Favel, a large proportion of the popu-
lation of the country embraced Protestantism, and in 1532 the Helvetic Confession
of Faith was put forth. Unfortunately, for a long period. Catholics and Pro-
testants would not agree amicably to differ, and no less than three sanguinary
religious wars ensued, viz., in 153 1, in 1653, and in 1712, the last being ended by
the Peace of Aarau.
It seems that, afcer the cessation of the wars for independence, the Swiss had
become satiated by their conquests. Swiss valour became individual rather than
national, and her soldiers were notorious as the mercenary champions of any cause
that could afford to pay'for their services. Swiss Guards were the last prop of the
expiring Bourbon monarchy at the close of the eighteenth centuiy ; and by a stroke
of bitter irony, the country of those brave hirelings became very shortly the prey
of the very people whose rising aspirations for freedom they had been paid to sup-
press. Vainly at Rothenthurm and Stans did Aloys Reding, and other patriots of
the ancient stamp essay to stem the progress of the French Republicans. The
HISTORY.
13
counCiy im con^Dcno, and, in reility, tanexti, though a t(M:alled HelTcdaa
Republic wB cstabliihed.
In 1S02, Buonaparte restored the Cinlnnal lyttem, under the protection of
France. In 1815 the Allied SoTcrdgni acknowledged the indepeadeoce of
Switierbnd. The Canton^ now twenty-two in number, were united under ■
conititution providing that a Federal EKet ihould be held alternately at Berne,
Zurich, and Laceme. In iSjo, lerenl Cantoni Intiodiiced important cliange) in
a democratic direcdoa. Theie chuigea, especially the ni^ii«nian of monasteriea
and e}ecllaa of the Jesuiti, were oppoied by other Canton), who, in 1841, joined
En the league known as the Sondetbuad. Thia oi^^ankfd appodtiou hid to lie
put down by force in i S47. In [he following year a new Coutitution, of a more
Liberal and Protestant chuacter. wai adopted, and Berne was made the permanent
■eat of Government. Since that time the history of Switzerland has been a record
of peacciiil and rapid progress. Urge development of the national reiourcei, and
£mUtiei of intercommunifJtinn.
BALE, BASLE, OR BASEL.
(Hotel Trois Rois.)
(A very fine hotel, beautifully situated, with good view of
the Rhine and opposite bank.)
Railway Stations. — There are two Railway Stations
at Basle, and they are about 40 minutes' walk from each other.
Omnibus, i franc. Carriage, i^ franc ; 2 francs, if more than
two persons.
^ The Central Station is on the S. side of the town, a
mile from the Bridge and Hotel Trois Rois. Omnibus to town,
I franc. Local Railway from one station to the other every 20
minutes.
Trains for the Swiss and Alsace lines start from this station.
The Baden Station is in Klein-Basel, nearly a mile from
the Bridge and the Hotel Trois Rois. Trains for Baden, Black
Forest, etc., start from this station.
Basle (population 45,000) is of Roman origin 5 its name is
derived from Basileia, or Basilis, a *' queen " — probably on
account of its wealth and importance, and splendid situation on
the Rhine. The town is divided by the river into two parts —
Great Basle on the left bank, and Little Basle on the right.
The geographical position of Basle is very interesting 3 until
the Franco-German war it was at the junction of Switzerland,
France, and Germany. There was a spot near Kleinhuningen
where it was said a man might plant his foot on all three
countries at once.
The inhabitants of Basle have always had the character of
being thrifty traders, and the charge of usury has been laid at
their door; they also earned the notoriety, in ancient times,
which attaches to the quarrelsome ; and as late as the year 1833
the city Basle and the country Basle were engaged in a civil war
on so small a scale as would have rendered it ridiculous, but for
the bloodshed and death in which it resulted. Since that time
the belligerent canton has been divided into two parts, by order
of the Swiss Diet. Each half canton has an independent vote,
but only one senator is returned to the Standerath.
Basle has been the scene of several important tcealvs& ^H.
1 5 BASLE.
peace j between the Prussians, Spanish, and French, in 1795,
and in the same year between Spain and France, when the latter
gave up the provinces south of the Pyrenees in exchange for a
portion of the Island of St. Domingo, since lost to them. One
or two important Councils have been held at Basle, notably
that in 143 1, convened by Pope Martin V., to suppress the
heresies of the Hussites.
Among the celebrated men for whom Basle is famous may
be mentioned : yohn and Charles Bemouilli, the mathema-
ticians 5 Buxtorfy an eminent professor of Oriental languages j
CEcolampadius and Grynceus, Holbein commenced his career in
Basle ; Erasmus resided here in the house Zur Lusi, near the
Munster 5 and Euler, the celebrated mathematician, was bom in
Basle.
The best starting-point for a tour of the town is the Three
Kings Hotel, a place of historic interest, if the following
statement may be accepted : —
'' Basle was founded by the Romans at an early period
(perhaps already in the second century). The Alemanni, how-
ever, destroyed it about the beginning of the fifth century j but
when that savage nation was itself subjugated by Clovis, Basle
passed likewise under the sceptre of that prince, and remained
under the dominion of the Frank monarchs till 912, when
Rodolphus II., sovereign of the newly-established kingdom of
Little Burgundy, offered Basle his protection against the ferocious
Normans and Hungarians, who infested the Grerman empire at
that time. Notwithstanding this promised support, the town
was entirely devastated and burnt down by the Hungarians.
" In the year 1004 the rebuilt city was restored to the Ger-
man empire by Rodolphus III., who bequeathed his kingdom
of Little Burgundy to the Emperor Henry If., and gave the
town of Basle as a pledge of his promise. In 1024, Henry's
successor, Conrad II., and the son of this monarch, Henry III.
(already elected as German Emperor) had an interview with
Rodolphus III., King of Burgundy, in a field near Muttenz, in
the neighbourhood of Basle 5 after which deliberation the three
sovereigns entered the town together, and are said to have
alighted and signed their agreement at the old inn, which stood
on the spot where this house now stands, and which, from this
circumstance, took the name of * Hotel of the Three Kings,* **
Maximilian Misson, who visited Basle in 1690, says, in his
" Instructions to Travellers," — " At Basle, lodge at the * Three
Kings,' where you will be well entertained."
BASLE. ^y
Close by the Hotel is the Wooden Bridge (280 yards),
which connects Gross-Basel with Klein-Basel. This is a very
favourite resort is summer evenings 5 the views up and down
the river are good. The tourist will watch with interest the
rafts coming down the river, and note the dexterity with which
they are shot under the bridge. No boat can force its way
against the mighty current here save one, and that is ingeniously
contrived to propel itself by the current. It is a curious but
simple contrivance, and is worth the price of the fare just to
cross and recross.
The Miinster, one of the finest Protestant churches in
the world, is but a short distance from the bridge 5 its two tall
towers (220 feet high) are conspicuous. It was built by the
Emperor Henry II. (loio — 10 19), and has several times since
been rebuilt or restored. The west front presents a very striking
appearance. On either side are statues of St. Greorge (left)
and St. Martin (right). By the doorway, representations of the
Emperor Henry, who founded the church, and Helena, his
wife. Above, the Virgin and Child.
The northern entrance is graced with a curious representation
of the parable of the wise and foolish virgins.
The interior, thoroughly restored and re-decorated in
1855, contains some objects of interest. Open free, Tuesdays
and Thursdays, 2 till 4. Oiher times a small fee. The organ
(performance once or twice a week in the summer, between
6 and 7, one franc), was built in i8j8,and is a very fine instru-
ment. It is supported by the old rood loft of 138 1. Stone
pulpit, date 1324. Font, 1465. Monument to Eras-
mus, the learned editor of the New Testament, and one of
the harbingers of the Reformation. Choir. Tomb of
Empress Anne, wife of Rudolph of Hapsburg. Stained -glass
windows by Swiss artists. A stairway leads from the choir to
the Concilium Saal (Council Hall). It was the scene of
the councils held between 143 1 and 1445, ^^^ remains now
exactly as it was then. It contains, among other curiosities,
the fragments of the Dance of Death, commemorating the
plague. The frescoes were not painted by Holbein, as was
formerly supposed. Beneath the Council Hall, in the chapel
of S. Nicholas, b the Lallenkonig, a curious head which
formerly stood on the bridge, and every time the clock struck
it protruded its tongue, in derision of the inhabitants of Klein.
Basel, with whom the people of Gross-Basel were on uaxixveoL^ic^
terms. The cloisters are extensive, an.d.N(re!ce -vvsR^^^a-^soKv^^-
jg BASLE.
place for many centuries. Close by is the Pfalz, a pleasant
promenade^ planted with chestnut trees 5 it is between 70 and
80 ft. above the Rbine^ and commands fine views of the hills
of the Black Forest.
Between the bridge and the Miinster is the Museum. (Open
free, Sundays 10 — 12, Wednesdays 2 — ^4. Other times i franc.)
Its chief attraction is a collection of paintings and drawings by
the younger Holbein. There are other works of value and
interest. Notice especially in the Molbein Room —
13. Portrait of Boniface Amberbach, a friend of the painter,
who formed this collection of his works.
14. Erasmus.
20. Holbein's wife and children.
21. Lais Corinthiaca. (Madame von Off enburg).
23. Venus with Cupid. „
26. The Passion of Christ. (Eight compartments.)
34. Froben, the printer.
In the collection of modern Swiss artists, notice —
146. A Mountain Festival .... Stuckelherg^
/^oT Watering the Cattle .... F, Roller ,
In the Birmann collection —
2t66. Nativity Annihale Caracci,
291. Smoker ...••... Tenters,
Modern German school —
351. Macbeth and the Witches .... y. Koch.
^61. The death of Joseph .... Overheck.
The collection of drawings is very good.
In addition to the picture gallery, there is a good collection
of antiquities, found, for the most part, at Augst, the site
of an old Roman colony — Augusta Rauracorum, six miles from
Basle — and other curiosities.
In the same building is the Public Library, with nearly
100,000 volumes, and a collection of MSS., including writings
of the Reformers. The University, close by, was founded
in T460. Bemouilli and Euler were professors here.
In the market-place is the Rathhaus (Town Hall).
Built 1508, restored 1826. The arms of the canton Basle
adorn the fagade, and in front of the inner court is a statue of
Munatius Plancus, the supposed founder of Basle and Augst.
Near here, in the Freien-Strasse, is the Post Office, a
very old building restored, and in the immediate vicinity are
several buildings dating from about the sixteenth century.
The Arsenal (Zeughaus), contains a collection of armour,
BASLE. 10
Burgundian cannon, etc. The principal curiosity is a suit o£
chain armour worn by Charles the Bold at the Baitle of Nancys
A short distance from the Arsenal is a very beautiful
Fountain, the Spahlenbrunnen, representing a bag-piper>
designed, probably, by Albert Diirer. The Spahlenthor, c^
Gate of St. Paul, built in the fourteenth century, is very fine.
The churches of Basle are —
The Barfiisser Church, fourteenth century. (Not
used now as a place of worship.)
The Church of S. Elizabeth, the most magnificent
modem building in Basle. It is in the Grothic style, and is the
gift of one Christopher Mirian, a merchant of Basle, who leffc
an enormous sum (nearly a quarter of a million) for its erection
Good stained-glass windows.
Church of St. Martin, where CEcolampadius preached
the doctrines of the Reformation. The English Church Service
is performed here.
Basle has long been celebrated for its philanthropists, and
there are at the present time, in admirable working order, as*
number of good institutions for the social, moral, and religioue
welfare of the people. Among them are the Protestant
Missionary and Bible Society, Missionary School, Society for the
Promotion of the Public Welfare, besides asylums, and other
' benevolent institutions. •
The Central Railway Station, on the S. side of the
town, is handsome. On the exterior, reliefs of Newton, Humboldt,
Laplace, and Euler. It will be observed that there are also two
clocks, which differ by twenty-two minutes. One shows the
Paris time, the other the time of Basle. Much interest attaches
to the time in Basle, as the following will show : —
"Everybody knows how, until the end of the last century,
it was a part of the religion of the people of Basle to keep their
clocks an hour in advance of those of the rest of the world. It
is somewhat remarkable, however, that the origin of so singular
a practice should not be more clearly traced. One theory
accounts for it, by the supposition that the people of Basle
were an hour lazier than other people, and required this notable
device in order to keep them up to the mark. Another, is that
the town dock having been struck by lightning, and the hand
forced an hour forward, the superstition of the people- prevented
them from mterfering with what they considered to be the ^sfC
of heaven. A third is, that the attempt of atv ewexcv-^ \.o ^\«^\vsfe
the town at a certain appointed hour, was deiea\.^^>o^ ^'^ \.^h*'«^
20
ENVIRONS OF BASLE.
dock^ which was to have given the signal, striking an hour in
advance, and thus deceiving them into the belief that they were
too late ; in grateful commemoration of which this tribute of
respect was paid to bad clock-making — like that of the Romans
to the geese, which saved the Capitol. A fourth theory — and
that which finds favour in the eyes of the respectable traveller,
Coxe — is, that it is owing to the fact of the choir of the cathe-
dral being built at a little deviation from the due east, which
consequently produced a corresponding variation upon the sun-
dial which was affixed to it. Whatever the origin of the
practice might be, it was considered by the people of Basle as
an integral part of their constitution; and every proposition
made in the council to alter it, met with a signal defeat.*' In
1799 they were put right, however, and Basle now keeps
" railway time."
Basle is rapidly rising in the estimation of tourists, and a day
or two may be spent here with pleasure. There are good
Swimming Baths, a Reading Club, and a handsome new
Theatre. The Zoological Gardens, which are planned on an
extensive scale, will prove a great attraction.
In the environs of Basle are some charming walks and
drives. About three-quarters of a mile from the town is the
Battle Field of St- Jacob, where, in 1444, 1300 Swiss
withstood an army of 40,000 French, under the command of the
Dauphin of France, at that time a confederate of the Austrians.
The latter army perished, only ten escaping alive, and the battle
of St. Jacob is still referred to as the Thermopylae of Swiss
history. The vineyards near here produce a red wine called
Schweitzer Blut (Swiss Blood). It was not till 1872 that a
monument was erected to their memory. It is a very fine
one by F, Schloth, and bears the inscription, "Our souls to
God, our bodies to the enemy.*' Well worth seeing.
Augst, six miles. A few Roman remains.
Arleslieim, six miles. Formerly summer residence of
Bishops of Basle. Fine English park surrounding the ruined
castle of Birseck.
Benedictine Convent of Manastein, six miles.
Very picturesque.
Htiningen, three miles. A great establishment for
pisciculture.
RHEINFELDEN. 21
BASLE TO 8CHAFFHAU8EN.
Station of the Baden Railway in Klein-Basel (p. 15). Time,
3 hours.
Grenzack, — A verjr good wine grown here. Whylen,
Rheinfelden, on the left bank of the Rhine, is a little
walled town, thoroughly Swiss j it is partly built with the ruins
of the old Roman settlement, Augusta Rauracorum, founded
by Munatius Plancus (p. 18). Basel Augst (p. 18) is
about 3 miles from here. Rheinfelden was one of the border
forts of the Holy Roman Empire : many battles were fought
around it during the Thirty Years* War j it sustained numerous
sieges, imtil, in 1 744, it was taken by the French; and all its
fortifications levelled. It has formed part of Switzerland since
1 801. The Covered Bridge, the Upper Gate, and the Stork's
Nest Tower, are curious and interesting. There are some
famous salt-works in the vicinity of the town, and baths. The
Rhine here narrows, and rushes in a foaming torrent, forming
the Hollenhaken,
Sdckingen (Hotel Schutzen). — A fine old Abbey Church,
Klein- Lauffenhurg, — A covered bridge connects it with
LaulTenburg (from Lauffen, cataracts). — An ancient
Castle here. The Rhine is here very picturesque, passing
through a rocky channel, where it forms a series of cataracts,
impossible for loaded boats to pass. Good salmon fishing.
Waldshut (Hotel Kiihner, near the Station) is a walled
to\^^, and a railway jimction (pop. 1000). It is on the margin
of the Black Forest.
Hochenschwand, the highest village in the Forest, and
commanding a magnificent view of the Alps (see Cook's
** Handbook to Black Forest *'), is about 10 miles from
here. Waldshut is an uninteresting town, and has not a vestige
of holiday attraction about it. Entering by a gate, there is
before the traveller one long street, terminated by another gate,
and this is the whole of Waldshut. Some of the houses are
old, with large, projecting gables and cranes. The shutters to
all the windows throughout the town are green. The church
is whitewashed inside, and contains nothing worthy of remark.
The walks in the neighbourhood of Waldshut are pretty.
Waldshut to Ziirich (p. 34).
Erzingen is the last station in the Baden territoiy*
Wilschingen, the first in the Canton of Scha£Ehausea«
22 BASLE TO SCHAFFHAUSEN.
NEUHAU8EN
(Hotel Schweizerhof, immediately facing the Falls, and with
fine view of the Alps.)
This is the best station for alighting to visit the Falls of
the Rhine.
The Rhine, above the Falls, is about 300 feet wide j the
height of the Falls is about 60 feet on one side, 45 feet on the
other, and the water rushes in three leaps, with a volume of
about 80,000 cubic feet per second, and then falls into a large
basin. Descend, through the beautiful grounds belonging to the
Schweizerhof Hotel, to the Schlosschen Worth, where there is
a fine view. Here also is a camera obscura, a restaurant, and
a stall of fancy goods. Then take a boat (3 francs for i to 3
persons), and row in the midst of the turbulent waters to the
middle rock in the Falls. The boat will rock violently, and the
spray may fall heavily, but there is no danger — in fact, an acci-
dent has never been known. You will alight just at the foot of
the great volume of water, and will find it hard to make your-
self heard in conversation without an effort. Ascend to a
pavilion (** the Umbrella," as it is called in the neighbourhood),
and a view of unspeakable grandeur will be witnessed.
If the traveller is nervous, and does not care to visit the
rock, go by ferry direct to Schloss Laufen (30c).
Schloss Laufen is beautifully situated immediately above the
Falls. Admission to the grounds, i franc. Although the
general effect of the Falls is grand from any point of view, it is
impossible to fully realize their true beauty and grandeur except
from the Schloss Laufen.
Passing through the rooms, in which will be found a good
collection of Swiss carvings, photographs, water-colour draw-
ings, and curiosities, the traveller enters the enclosed grounds,
and sees first a pavilion from which a good general view is
obtained (with or without stained glasses). Descending by a
pleasant path, he then enters a small tunnel in the rock, against
which the waters are booming, and it seems as if the rocks shook.
This leads to the Kanzli, a wooden platform beside the Falls.
There descend again, and enter through a doorway to the
Fischetz, an iron platform, overhanging the troubled sea of
waters. (Here waterproofs are kept, and are often needed, as
the spray continually dashes over.) The most imposing view
^nd the finest effects are to be seen here.
A description by John Ruskin will be read here with
Measure : —
FALLS OF THE RHINE. 23
** Stand for an hour beside the Falls of Schaifhausen^ on
the north side, where the rapids are long, and watch how the
vault of water first bends unbroken in pure poliShed velocity
over the arching rocks at the brow of the cataract, covering
them with a dome of crystal twenty feet thick, so swift that its
motion is unseen except when a foam-globe from above darts
over it like a falling star ; and how the trees are lighted above
it xinder all their leaves at the instant that it breaks into foam 5
and how all the hollows of that foam burn with green fire, like
so much shattering chrysoprasi 5 and how, ever and anon start-
ling you with its white flash, a jet of spray leaps hissing out of
the fall, like a rocket bursting in the wind and driven away in
dust, filling the air with light 5 and how, through the curdling
wreaths of the restless, crashing abyss below, the blue of the
water, paled by the foam in its body, shows purer than the sky
through white rain cloud 5 while the shuddering iris stoops in
tremulous stillness over all, fading and flushing alternately
through the choking spray and shattered sunshine, hiding itself
at last among the thick golden leaves which toss to and fro in
sympathy with the wild waters, their dripping masses lifted at
intervals, like sheaves of loaded corn, by some stronger gush
from the cataract, and bowed again upon the mossy rocks as its
roar dies away."
The tourist should now return to the Castle, and after pass-
ing out into the road, turn to the left, and descend by a path
to the Railway Bridge. This he will cross by a footway,
and will notice the river bed, the gathering waters rushing to
the Fall, and the unequal arches of the bridge. Then through
vineyards on the left, and back, past the village, to the hotel.
The Falls should be seen in the early morning, when the rain-
bows are around them; by the light of the sunset; and, if
fancy so dictates, illuminated with magnesium and Bengal
lights. The best time in the year for witnessing a mighty rush
of waters is in June or July, when the snow of the Alps is
melting, but the Falls are always grand. On a moonlight night
the effects are exquisite.
Dr. Forbes thus describes the scene : — "We walked out on
the terrace in front of the hotel to enjoy the view of the Falls
by moonlight. The evening was as lovely as the day had been
— warm, cloudless, and without a breath of wind. The huge
white mass of tumbling foam lay straight before us, the oidy
bright spot in the dinaly-lighted landscape, and attractltv^'asA
fixing the eye exclusively on itself. No ^ovmi^ ^^s» X^^-^^^soS^-
H
SCHAFFHAUSEK.
the one continuous roar of the water, softened by the distance,
and seemine to fill the whole air like the moonshine itself.
There was something both wild and delightful in the hour and
its accompaniments. The mind yielded passively to the im-
pressions made on the senses. A host of half- formed,
vague, and visionary thoughts crowded into it at the same
time, giving rise to feelings at once tender and melancholy,
accompanied with a sort of objectless sympathy or yearning
after something unknown. The ideas and emotions moht
definite and constant were those of power and perpetuity,
wonder and awe. What was now impressing the senses and
the mind seemed a part of something infinite, which they could
neither comprehend nor shake off -, the same mass, the same
roar, the same rush day and night, year after year, age after age,
now and for ever ! '*
SchafThausen is the capital of the same named Canton.
The name Schaff hausen is derived from the '* skiff-houses,"
which were once ranged here along the river bank when it was
a mere landing-place for goods, and was principally peopled by
boatmen. It is a remarkably picturesque town, and retains
some good specimens of the Suabian style of the sixteenth
century. Notice the frescoes on some of the houses, especially
the House Zum Ritter, opposite the Krone Hotel. Tlie
Cathedral, founded 1052, was once an Abbey Church 5 the
style is Romanesque, very massive. The inscription on the
great bell (cast in 1468) gave the suggestion to Schiller for his
exquisite ** Lied von der Glocke." It runs as follows : — '* Vivos
voco, mortuos plango, fulgura frango.*' The Castle of
Munoth, with a thick, bomb-proof wjill and a round tower, was
built 1564 ; visitors may inspect it, enjoy the view, and en-
ter the subterranean passages for a trifling fee. The Library
is only celebrated for the works of Johann von MftUer, the Swiss
historian. On the Promenade (Vesenstaub) is Miiller's
monument. A good swimming-bath in the river. The Im-
thurneum (named after its founder, M. Imthurn, a native,
who presented it to the town) contains a good Theatre, Concert
and Ball Room, etc.
FROM 8GHAFFHAU8EN TO ZURICH
(Time, 2 hours.)
A long tunnel is entered, then the great bridge over the
Rhine is crossed, and another tunnel, passing under the Castle
SCHAFFHAUSEN TO CONSTANCE. 25
of Laufen, on emerging from which a glance at the Falls may
be obtained. The scenery is very beautiful in the neighbour-
hood of Dachsen, after which there is little to call for special
attention until Winterthur (p. 53) is reached. The stations
after Dachsen are Marthalen, Andelfingen, Henggart, Hetlingen,
Winterthur.
Winterthur to Zurich, p. ^^.
SCHAFFHAUSEN TO CONSTANCE, BY RAIL.
(Time li hours.) The first station of any importance is Singen,
a junction for Donaueschingen. Near Singen is the fortress of
Hohentwiel, celebrated in the history of the Thirty Years*
War, partly destroyed by the French in 1800, Magnificent
view from the tower.
Radolpliszell, a walled town, with a fine Gothic Church
(1436). A good view of the Lower Lake is obtained here, in
the centre of which is the Island of Reichenau. (See below.)
The journey from this point is on the margin of the Lake,
past stations Marke/Jingen, Allenslach, Reichenau, The Rhine
is then crossed by a handsome bridge thrown across that part
of ihe lake, which is here contracted to a river.
Schaffliausen to Constance. By boat (Time, 4 to 5
hours ; reverse journey Constance to Schaffhausen, 3 hours).
Para dies, formerly a nunnery. The Austrian army, under the
Archduke Charles, crossed the Rhine here 1799. Diessen-
hLOfen, where the French army in 1800 effected a passage
before the Battle of Hohenlinden. Stein, a fine old town.
Abbey of St. George. Ruined Castle of Hohenklingen, with a
good view.
Soon after leaving Stein the river widens, and the Unter-
see (Lower Lake) is entered. The Castle of Freudenfels is
seen on the right, and below it the village of Eschenz. To the left,
Olerstaad, near which are the Quarries of Oehningen, remark-
able for fossils 5 on the right, Steckborn and Feldbach, nunnery.
At Berlingen the Island of Reiclienau is seen to advantage.
It is 3 miles long, and i^ miles broad. In the Church of the
Benedictine Abbey, Charles the Fat, great-grandson of Charle-
magne, is buried. To the right of Berlingen is the Castle of
Eugensberg, built by Eugene Beauhamais ; the Castle of Salen-
stem ; Arenenberg, where Queen Hortense died, and now
the occasional residence of the Ex- Empress of the French.
Soon alter leaving Ermatingen, the narrow ^^iS^'^l'^ coosjkfts^''
ing the Untersee with the Lake ol CoxisVasLCfc \& «o&rx^^
26 CONSTANCE
On the right is the castellated Monastery of Gottlleben,
where John Huss and Jerome of Prague were imprisoned by
order of the Emperor Sigisraund and Pope John XXII. It
was a curious coincidence that Pope John XXII. should have
himself been confined in this very castle a few years later, by
order of the Council of Constance (p. 27). The remainder of
the journey is somewhat uninteresting.
COMSTANCE (BADEN).
(Hotel Hecht.)
The population of Constance was once over 40,000 5 it is
now about 11,000. The town is on the Swiss bank of the
Rhine, but was, by the Treaty of Pressburg (i8oj) ceded to
Baden.
There is not much in Constance for the mere sightseer 5 it
is rich, however, in historical associations. As Geneva is the
city of Calvin, and Ziirich the city of Zwingli, so Constance is
the city of Huss.
Ttie House of Huss, in the St. Paulsstrasse, is adorned
with his effigy. The Dominican Monastery of Gottlieben,
where he was imprisoned, is on an island near the town (see
above). The place where he stood to receive the sentence of
death is pointed out in the MUnster. The Kaufhaus, in
which the Council met who condemned him, may be visited 5
and the field at Briihl, where the last act in the tragedy was
performed, is still to be seen ; and' here the visitor, as he stands
on the very spot where the stake was planted, will be asked to
bny an image of the Reformer, made from clay taken from the
place above which the flames crackled.
It is not necessary here to tell the story of Huss again ; but
as the visitor looks at his prison at Gottlieben, it may not be
uninteresting to recall one of his dreams, as related by D'Au-
bign6 in his '' History of the Reformation'* : —
'^ One night the holy martyr saw in imagination, from the
depths of his dungeon, the pictures of Christ that he had had
painted on the walls of his oratory, effaced by the Pope and his
bishops. This vision distressed him 5 but on the next day he
saw many painters occupied in restoring these figures in greater
number and in brighter colours. As soon as their task was
ended, the painters, who were surrounded by an immense
crowd, exclaimed, * Now let the popes and bishops come ! They
shall never efface them more ! * ' And many people rejoiced in
CONSTANCE.
«7
Bethlehem, and I with them/ adds John Huss. • Busy your-
self with your defence rather than with your dreams/ said his
faithful friend, the Knight of Chlum, to whom he had com-
municated this vision. * I am no dreamer/ replied Huss ; ' but
I maintain this for certain, that the image of Christ will never
be effaced. They have wished to deface it, but it shall be
painted afresh in all hearts by much better preachers than my-
self. The nation that loves Christ will rejoice at this ; and I,
awaking from among the dead, and rising, so to speak, from
my grave, shall leap with great joy.'*
Nor can the visitor walk out to the suburb of Bnihl, on
the Zurich road, where he was burnt at the stake, without
thinking of the remarkable pun and prophecy he made as he
was entering the flames in allusion to his own name, which
signified in the Bohemian tongue a goose. He said, " Are you
going to burn a goose ? In one century you will have a swan
you can neither roast nor boil." And in one century came forth
Luther, who had a swan for his arms.
The Munster, or Cathedral, was founded 1052, but did not
assume its present form till the beginning of the sixteenth cen-
tury. The Gothic tower at the west end was erected during the
years 1850-57. From the platforms round the open-work spire
a magnificent view is obtained of the town, the lake, the
valley of the Rhine, and the mountains of the Tyrol. The
oak doors of the chief entrance are decorated with reliefs by
Simon Haider (1470), in twenty sections, representing scenes
in the life of our Lord.
In the interior observe the sixteen monolith pillars which
support the nave ; the choir-stalls, with old carvings ; the
Tomb of Robert Hallam, Bishop of Salisbury, made of
English brass. In the nave is a light-coloured stone, marking
the spot where John Huss stood when the cruel sentence
of death was delivered, July 6, 1415, and where he knelt before
his accusers, and cried, '* Lord Jesus, forgive my enemies ! **
It is affirmed that this stone always remains dry when those
surrounding it are damp. The sacristy contains some curious
missals, miniatures, plate, and other relics. A good collection
of stained glass, by Vincent^ may be seen in the Chapter-
room. The Crypt below the church is very old, and contains
a representation in stone of the Holy Sepulchre. The Clois-
ters, though now much dilapidated, exhibit some excellent
workmanship.
The Hall of the Kauf haus Is -wViet^ ^'fe C,o\xaK\ ^
28 LAKE OF CONSTANCE.
Constance held its sittings, and condemned Huss and Jerome
of Prague. Many memorials of the former are preserved here
in a kind of museum, admission one franc.
In the Wessenberg-Haus may be seen a good collec-
tion of engravings and pictures. On the Town Hallf Stadt"
Kanzlei, are frescoes illustrating passages in the history of
Constance.
The walks in the neighbourhood of Constance, and the
promenades surrounding the town, are pretty. The pier is
attractive, on account of the good views it commands. There
is also a good Swimming Bath.
In the environs of Constance are several very interesting
places 5 among them the Abbey of Kreuzlingen— or,
rather^ the building which once bore that name, for it is now
an agricultural school. The present structure has been erected
since the Thirty Years' War, as the former one was destroyed
during that time. In one of the chapels is a marvellous piece of
wood-carving, adorned with many hundreds of miniature figures,
the work of a Tyrolesej also an embroidery, adorned with
pearls, presented by Pope John XXII. on his journeying to
Constance in 14 14.
Mainau, the beautiful seat of the Grand Duke of Baden,
is situated on a small island, about four miles from Constance.
The island is connected with the mainland by a bridge. Nc
pleasanter day's excursion than this can be undertaken in the
vicinity of Constance.
The Field of Briihl is outside the town, on the road to
Ztirich, and possesses the melancholy interest of being the
place where Huss was burnt in 14 15, and Jerome of Prague
a year after. The spot is marked by a rough monument of
stones, upon which is an inscription.
THE LAKE OF CONSTANCE.
(Latin, Lacus Bri^aniinus, German, Boden See.)
This spacious reservoir of the Rhine is over forty miles in
length, and eight in width ; it is a glorious sheet of water in
fine weather, but rather turbulent in storm, being elevated about
1,300 feet, and not protected by lofty mountain embankaients j
it is by no means an uncommon thing for tourists to suffer
from sea-sickness when being rocked on its bosom. There are
BREGENZ. 20
some fine views from it, especially of the Appenzell Alps,
including the snow-clad Sentis and the Vorarlberg Alps. Lake
Constance would probably be considered very beautiful, were it
not in Switzerland; but being there, it suffers from odious
comparisons with its fairer neighbours.
The position held by the lake is curious, as it forms the
boundary of ^ye different states, viz., Baden, Wiirttemberg,
Bavaria, Austria, and Switzerland, to each of which states a
portion of the coast belongs.
For Steamers to all parts of the lake, see local time-tables.
Friedrichshafen, nearly opposite Constance, is the prin-
cipal bathing place on the lake, and the views from here are
among the finest in the neighbourhood. It is a pleasant town^
with about 3000 inhabitants. The Schloss is the summer
residence of the King of Wurtemberg. Friedrichshafen is the
terminus of the Stuttgart Railway.
Llndau, a pretty town at the £. end of the lake, is the
terminus of the Bavarian Railway.
Bregenz, in the Vorarlberg, is a good starting-point for
the Tyrol. It is thus sketched by Adelaide Proctor : —
** Girt round with rugged mountains.
The lair Lake Constance lies ;
In her blue heart reflected,
Shine back the starry slues ;
And, watching each white cloudlet
Float silently and slow,
You think a piece of heaven
Lies on our earth below !
Midnight is there ; and silence.
Enthroned in heaven, looks down
Upon her own calm mirror.
Upon a sleeping town ;
For Bregenz, diat quaint city
Upon the Tyrol shore,
Has stood above Lake Constance
A thousand years and more.
Her battlements and towers.
From off their rocky steep.
Have cast their trembling shadows
For ages on the deep j
Mountain, and lake, and valley,
A sacred legend know.
Of how the town was saved one night,
Three hundred years a%o *' — cXc ^ cXc*
30
RORSCHACH.
CONSTANCE TO COIRE (CHUR).
The journey may be made by boat to Rorschach, and thence
by rail, or the whole route by rail^ the line skirting the bank of
the Lake as far as to Rorschach. In either case the principal
places passed will be Kreuzlingen (p. 28), Miinsterlingen,
(with a large lunatic asylum, formerly a monastery)^ AltnaUj
Guttingen, Kessweil, Uttweil, Romanshorn (a steamboat-
station, eight miles from Friedrichshafen, and a junction with
line to Winterthur), Egnach, Arbon (once the Roman Arbor
Felix), Horn (with its good bath)^ and then Rorschach,
RORSCHACH.
(Hotel Seehof.)
Behind the town, which has a population of 3492, is a hill
called the Rorschacher Berg, commanding a view of the
entire length of Constance and the Alps of the Orisons. There
are some old castles dotted about on hills, some good baths not
far off from the town, and very pretty walks and drives, and the
air is said to be very beneficial to invalids. It is not, however,
a place to choose for a lengthened stay.
A large traffic passes through here or by the coast steamers
from Romanshorn, across the lake to Lindau, where it is
transhipped from steamer to railway for Bavaria, Austria, etc.
It was a busy place during the late war, as it was the route
selected for traffic from the eastern line from France.
The trip to Bregenz can be made from this town by
steamer (p. 29).
Leaving Rorschach, the lake is skirted and the valley of
the Rhine is entered. Rheineck is a pleasant village, situated
in a bend in the river, and surrounded with vineyards 5 travellers
who are seeking the Molken-kar, or Whey-cur© (made of
goat's milk) alight here for Heiden, said to be one of the
cleanest and healthiest towns in Switzerland. Diligence twice
daily, i^ hour. From Heiden a diligence runs to St. Gallen
(P-54).
Altstatten has a population of nearly 8000. Beautiful
neighbourhood. Good roads from here to Appenzell, St. Gall,
and a pleasant footpath to Heiden. The manufacture in this
neighbourhood is a muslin fabric known as St. Gallen muslin^
the handiwork of all the women of the villages round about.
From Altstatten to Coire the scenery is extremely picturesque.
RAGATZ. qi
Oberried, a ruined castle (Blatten) is seed to the right,
and below it is a defile known as the Hirschsprung (stag's leap.)
Ruthi. A pathway from here leads to Weissbad, by the
Kamor Pass, the views from which are magnificent. Sennwald,
at the foot of the Kanzel, or pulpit, is near here.
Haag. Railway from here to Feldkirch, for the Tyrol.
At Buchs is a castle, once the residence of the Counts of
Werdenberg. . .
At Sevelen is the ruined castle of Wartau, and on the
opposite bank of the Rhine, Vaduz, to which place a coach
runs from Triibbach.
Sargans. Inquire here if a change of carriage must be
made. Sargans is the junction with the railways from Wallen-
stadt and Zurich. In this neighbourhood are the mountains
Falknis and Scesaplana.
RAQATZ
(Hotels Qaellenhof and Hof Ragatz.)
On the Tamina, is annually crowded with thousands of visitors,
sometimes as many as 50,000 in a season, on account of
the Baths, the mineral water which supplies them being
conveyed from Pfaffers by tubes or wooden pipes made of
hollow pine trees, and reaching a distance of 12,500 ft.
Ragatz has some fine hotels, a Ciirsaal, and charming environs.
Bad- Pfaffers, up the gorge of the Tamina, should on no ac-
count be missed. It is an easy walk of 2^ miles from Ragatz.
The old Baths are between frowning rocks above the torrent of the
Tamina. The Gorge is traversed by a wooden pathway above
the torrent, and with gloomy walls of rock overhanging. In
many respects it resembles the Gorge duTrient (p. 121), although,
probably, that remarkable spot is more than equalled by the
savage grandeur of Pfaffers. In one part of the Gorge (the
Schlucht or abyss) the rocks are not more than 20 feet apart.
The journey from Ragatz may be made with perfect safety either
by carriage or on foot, and, although a very timid person might
fear to walk upon a mere shelf of planks, with a brawling river
below and threatening rocks above, it is nevertheless perfectly
safe. A charge of one franc is made to each person for
admittance, and a guide invariably accompanies the visitors.
The journey may be made in from two to three hours, but those
who have time at their disposal will do well to visit also the
Village of Pfaffers, which has a fine Benedictiue ^V^^^«
now used as a Lunatic Asylum. The ToaAitoTa.>3cvfcN^'a^^»
«2 CONSTANCE TO COIRE.
Ragatz is exceedingly picturesque, and passes the ruined castle
of Wartenstein. Innumerable pleasant excursions may be made
in this neighbourhood.
Resuming the railway, the Rhine is crossed, and the
traveller, leaving the Canton of St. Gall, passes into the Grisons.
Mayenfeld. — Fine views. An old Tower of the fourfh
century, built, it is said, by the Emperor Constantius, is seen
here ; and also the Convent of Pfaffers.
Landquart. — Diligences run from here to the Engadine
(p. i8i).
COIRE.
(German, Chur; Komansch, Cuera,)
(Hotel Steinbock.)
Coire (pop. 8000) is the chief city of the Canton of the
Grisons (firaulunden), whose history is quite as eventful as
that of the Forest cantons, and equally as interesting. Some
of the principal inhabitants of the country called Canton Grisons
met together in a forest near the village of Trons, to form a
league and concert measures by which they might thxow off the
oppressive tyranny of the petty lords and barons who had so
long held them in subjection. In May, 1424, they met at the
village of Trons, and there established " The Grey League "
(jGrauhund), so called from their being dressed in grey. Two
similar leagues were formed : one called *' The League of God's
House," and the other "The League of the Ten Jurisdictions."
These three leagues, known as the Grison Confederacy, warred
agamst the barons to such good purpose, that, had not the
Episcopal lords directed their movements, it is likely that their
oppressors would have been forced to flee the land. As it was,
however, they contented themselves witli forming their country
into a number of small republics, each with a perfectly inde-
pendent government and machinery. The result of this was an
endless storm of petty feuds and quarrels between the citizens,
which did not really end until, in 18 14, they became a canton
of the Swiss Confederation. Since then a new set of laws con-
cerning the administration of the canton has been put in opera-
tion, by which all the old landmarks connected with the earlier
form of government have been obliterated, and it is now settled
down to the ordinary peace and prosperity of the rest of the
Swiss cantons.
The language of the Grisons is Romansch, divided into
three different dialects 3 the inhabitants^ however, can nearly
COIRE. 23
always supplement their own tongue with German or Italian.
The tourist will be interested in perusing a newspaper published
in Coire, in the Romansch, entitled " Amity del Pievel," the
" Friend of the People."
The canton is very large, occupying about one-sixth of the
whole of the Swiss territory, and has a population which, in
1870, numbered 91,782. The scenery is very beautiful through-
out the canton, consisting of barren mountains end fertile val-
leys, and every charm that variety can give.
There are several places of interest for the fleeting tourist to
note as he passes by, although the town of Coire does not hold
out sufficient inducement for any lengthened stay. The situa-
tion of the town is extremely picturesque 5 the streets are
narrow and irregular, but abounding with good views. The
Plessur, a river flowing into the Rhine, passes through it. Part
of the town is surrounded with walls. The Cathedral, or
Church of St. Lucius, is the most remarkable building in Coire 5
it dates from the eighth century, and is a good specimen of the
early pointed Gothic. St. Lucius is of doubtful origin 5 but the
legends say he was a King of Scotland, who came as an evan-
gelist to Switzerland, and suffered martyrdom. Observe the
portal of the entrance courts representing Christ as the Lion of
the tribe of J udah. In the iuterior are many objects of in-
terest —
Tomb of Bishop Ortlieb de Brandis.
Madonna Stumm (pupil of Rubens),
High Altar, with fine carved work . . Jacob Roesch,
Christ bearing the Cross .... Albert Dilrer,
In the Treasury are many valuable curiosities, including a
miniature on lapis lazuli, by Carlo Dolce,
The Episcopal Palace, not far from the church, is also
very ancient ; and it is said that the chapel is one of the earliest
Christian edifices extant. It is in an old Roman tower, called
Marsdl, in which tower, says tradition, St. Lucius was mur-
dered in the year 1 76. Above the Cathedral is a very fine walk,
commanding extensive views of the Visl Mala and the Spliigen.
The Chapel of St. Lucius, beautifully situated at the
foot of the Mittenberg, commands a fine view, as also does the
Rosenhiigel, a promenade a short distance from the town, on
the Julier Road. The tourist may, perchance, hear the watch-
man perambulating the town at night, and if so, h.t, vs\^ <:jd\5^
a couplet of the following ancient chant ; —
l^ BASLE TO ZORICH.
*' Hear, ye ChrKriani, let me tell foa
Our clock hai itruck eight,
Our clock has struck nine, etc.
EigAt^-on\y eight in Noah*s time
Were saved firom punishment Kgiit
Hint digests no thanking :
Man, think of thy duty ! Nint!
Ten commandments God enjoined I
Let us be to Him obedient. Ten I
Only Eleven disciples were faithful t
Grant, Lord, that there be no filing off. EJeviu /
Tivehe is the hour that limits time :
Man, think upon eternity ! Twelve I
One, — O man, only one thing is needful i
Man, tliink upon thy death I One!
From Coire over the Spliigen Pass (p. 177).
„ Coire to St. Moritz (p. J 84).
„ Coire to Andermatt by the Oberalp (p. i8a).
A diligence runs between Coire and Andermatt, from whence
another diligence runs to Brieg and Leuk ; and hence the rail-
way may be taken to Geneva (p. 124).
BASLE TO ZURICH.
There are three ways by which the journey may be made.
I. Waldshut and Turgi. 2. By Olten and Turgi. 3.. By
Rheinfelden, Stein, and Brugg.
(i) From Basle to Waldshut (see p. 21). At Waldshut the
Swiss Junction Railway crosses the Rhine a short distance
from Coblenz, and traverses the right bank of the river Aare
(which joins the Rhine at Coblenz — Confluentia) to Turgi.
A short but interesting journey brings the traveller to Turgi,
from which place the journey to Zurich is continued, as m
Route 3. (See below.)
(2) Basle to Olten, Turgi, and Ziirich. Soon after
leaving the station, the battle-field of St. Jacob (p. 20) is
passed, where 1600 Swiss withstood for ten hours a French
army ten times more numerous, commanded by the Dauphin.
The whole of the journey from Basle to Olten is through
very charming country. As soon as the Rhine valley is left,
the valley of the Ergolz, in the Jura, is entered. Liestal,
the capital of the half-canton. Basle-Champagne (p. 15), re-
minds the traveller of the animosity existing between it and
Basle-ville. It is a poor town, possessing nothing of great in-
BASLE TO ZURICH. 25
terest except the cup of Charles the Bold found at Nancy.
Stations, Lausen, Sissack, Sommerau, and Ldufelfingen,
Soon after passing the latter station, the great Hauenstein
Tunnel is entered. It is one and a half miles long. A terrible
accident occurred here in May, 1857, when fifty-two workmen
perished by a fall of the earth. The Hauenstein commands a
magnificent view of the Alps, which is not seen from the rail-
way. Many tourists, therefore, leave the train at Laufelfingen,
ascend the mountain (time, one and a half hours), and descend
to Olten, where the journey can be continued.
Olten, junction for Lucerne, Berne, Gteneva, etc. Inquire
if carriages have to be changed here. The town is pleasantly
situated on the Aare, in a valley of the Jura. There is nothing
in Olten except its situation to interest the traveller.
Leaving Olten, the journey continues still through pleasant
scenery, with the Aare and the Jura mountains in sight.
Stations, Ddnikon, Schonenwertk, with a ruined castle.
Aarau (Hotel de la Cigogne), the capital of the Canton
Aargau, is on the Aare, and under the Jura. Henry Zschokke,
the historian, lived here. The Baths of Schinznach can be
reached from here by way of the Gyslifluh, 2539 feet. A plea-
sant excursion, commanding good views.
Stations : Ruppersweil, Wildegg, near to the Baths of Bres-
tenberg 5 Schinznach, celebrated for its baths j visited chiefly by
the French. The Castle of Habsburg is close by here, once the
seat of the Imperial house of Austria, but now a ruin.
B ru gg, a pleasant and pretty place, once belonging to the
House of Habsburg^ its old towers are very quaint and
curious. Near here, the Aare, the Reuss, and the Linmiat,
three of the principal rivers of the country, join and travel in
company under the name of the Aare, until they reach Coblenz,
near Waldshut. A mile to the south-east of Brugg stands the
Abbey of Konigsfelden, " founded by the Empress Eliza-
beth and Agnes of Hungary, on the spot where the Emperor
Albert, husband of the one and father of the other, was assassi-
nated two years before. How much religion went in those days
to the building of an abbey we may judge by the ferocious
revenge which Agnes, unable to lay hands on the conspirators
themselves, took upon their families and friends, when, on occa-
sion of the butchery of sixty- three guiltless victims before her
at one time, she exclaimed, • Now I bathe in May -dew ! ' The.
actual murderers succeeded in making thelt e!sca.\fc, ^Ni^ 'Oofc
exception of Wart, who was undoubl^^ ^tesfcuX, ^ow^ "^oas*
^5 BASLE TO zORICH.
share in the deed is disputed. He was sentenced to be broken
alive upon the wheel ; but the usual * stroke of mercy ' was
denied^ and he lingered for two days and two nights before
death relieved him from his sufferings. I know few stories more
affecting than that of the devotion of Wart's wife in the hours
>of his long agony. During the day she concealed herself in the
neighbourhood, and as soon as it was dark, eluding the guards,
she contrived to climb up to the scaffold, and kneeling by his
side through the slow and terrible night, wiped away the sweat
of anguish from his brow, and whispered into his ear the con-
solation of faith and love. Before the morning broke she has-
tened away to hide herself near the spot, and to pray that when
she came back again she might find him dead. There came in
the morning a gay troop of knights to see the sight, and bit-
terly spoke one when he looked upon the unmutilated face.
' Are there no crows in your country ? ' was his stem demand.
It was the cruel Agnes in disguise. Strange indeed it is that
two such passions should have a common origin of woman's
affection — that the same source should send forth such sweet
waters and such bitter ! "
Brugg was the birthplace of Zimmerman, the author of the
well-known book on '* Solitude."
Turgi, junction, with branch line to Waldshut.
Baden ( Hotel Hinterhof ) is the oldest of the watering-
places of Switzerland j its ancient name was Aquce Helvetica. It
was visited by fashionable Romans, and now fashionable cosmo-
politans visit it to the number of i j,ooo annually. Its springs
are good for rheumatism, catarrhs, and almost everything else.
A curious fact connected with this place is, that it was nn
ancestor of Baden-Baden ; that is to say, it was once a " hell "
of the Romans, if all accounts be true j for it is said the tVurfel
JFiese^ or Dice Meadow, is so named on account of the dice
found in it.
The season at Baden is May to September, and the pnncipal
frequenters are Swiss and French.
Stations, Killwangen, Dietikon, Schlieren, Altstetten junction
with branch line to Lucerne (p. 54). As the traveller draws near
to Zurich, he will be struck with the picturesque nature of the
scenery in its immediate neighbourhood, and with the view of
the great range of Alps seen on the right hand.
Crossing the river Sihl, the train arrives at Zurich (p. 37).
(3) By Rheinfelden, Stein, and Brugg. This is the most
direct route from Basle to Ziirich^ and is not less interesting
zOrich. g-
than either of the other two. There is a good service of trains,
namely, from seven to ten daily each way. The railway passes
through Rheinfelden (p. 21), and the picturesque surround-
ings of this quaint and interesting town are therefore much
better seen than from the railway — Basle to Waldshut and
Turgi — where the line is on the other side of the river. Before
reaching Stein, the next station of any importance on the
route, the line turns southward, thus — as may be seen in the
map — saving the long distance to Waldshut on the one hand,
or to Olten on the other. Then comes Brugg (p. s^), and the
remainder of the journey is the same as in the other routes.
ZURICH.
(Hotel Belle Vue, on the shore of the Lake j commands the
best view of the Alps and the Lake.)
Population, 60,000, chiefly Protestant.
Ziirich is the centre of Swiss intelligence and industry ; its
staple trade is the manufacture of silk and cotton. Its Uni-
versity is noted for the proficient medical men it sends forth,
for its liberality in the matter of lady students, and for the
advanced thought and ultra-democratic views entertained there.
Every new idea is grasped with ardour and agitated with vigour.
While the University is the nucleus of enlightened views,
ethical, religious, and political, the town preserves the severely
Calvinistic character that made it a stronghold of the Reforma-
tion. Police regulations exist with regard to keeping Sunday,
that sound strangely arbitrary and somewhat incongruous to
English ears. The spirit of clique largely animates its society 5
the merchant does not visit with the learned bodies, nor the
students with the bourgeoisie. The people are brusque in man-
ner and speech. *' Grossier comme un Zurichois " has become a
proverb.
Ziirich's history is ancient, rough, and not always honour-
able. Long before the ubiquitous Romans founded the colony
of Turicum, it was a Keltic community, as remains amply
prove. Excavations. in the neighbourhood have furnished rich
yields of antiquities, Keltic, Etruscan, and Roman. Zurich
early ruled itself, and knew the horrors of civil war, dissension,
and treachery. The Zurichers appear fond of fighting ; their
records abound in narratives of attacks and quarrels. Nor were
they good Swiss 5 oftentimes they made secret alUatvcfts»W>5&i.
the Austrians against their neighbontm^co\iTi\xyKvWN.,^\RX^^s^
jg zCrich.
they weaned of the Austrian yoke, and joined the forest cantons
in liieir revolt against the Habsburgs. When, early in the four-
teenth century, Duke Albert besieged Ziirich, the women
donned armour, and aided the men in routing the enemy
They drove him across the frontier to his ancestral castle of
Habsburg 3 and near here> while he was baiting to admire the
exquisite view the valley of the Reuss presents, he was treacher
ously murderv d by his own nephew. From this date Ziirich
grew in importance, acquiring much land by conquest and by
purchase. It was in the van of the Reformation ^ the Protes-
tants banished under Queen Mary found a sure asylum here 3 the
first English Bible printed issued from its press. It was in
Zurich Cathedral that Zwingli thundered forth the new doc-
trines he had recently embraced. His eloquence converted the
whole congregation, and the church has ever since been Pro-
testant.
Ziirich boasts of many distinguished names. Conrad Gess-
ner, the celebrated naturalist, was bom here, March 26, 15 16.
Among his multifarious labours, he designed and painted over
I joo plants, and left five volumes consisting entirely of figures.
He was buried in the cloister of the great Church in Zurich,
1565. Solomon Gessner, the poet and painter, was bom here
in 1730. He was the author of "The Death of Abel." He
died in Ziirich, and his monument may still be seen. And
Lavater, the thoughtful, amiable Lavater, was born and lived
here. Zimmerman dwelt for some time near here on the lake,
and wrote in one of his letters : " I can never recall these sub-
lime and tranquil scenes which I have enjoyed in the company
of Lavater without the most intense emotion.'' Lavater naet
his death in Ziirich when the town was entered by the French
army in 1799. There are several versions of the story of
his death, but the most credible is that which says he was
shot by a French soldier while dressing the wounds of his
dying comrade. The perpetrator of the crime had but a few
hours before received the hospitality of the man he thus cruelly
slew. Although Lavater knew who it was that had shot him,
he refused to divulge the information, notwithstanding a large
reward had been offered by the French commander, Massena,
for the discovery of the murderer. Lavater lingered for more
than a year, much of which time was spent in extreme bodilj'
torture consequent upon his wound.
It would take long even to name the famous men of Ziirich.
Pesta]ozzij, the children's friend, Orelli, Bodmer, Homer, Meyer,
ZtjRICH. 29
the friend of Goethe, not to speak of exiles innnmerahle, past
and present — for the gates of Zurich have always been open to
the politically oppressed.
Ziirich is divided, by the rapid river Limmat, into two parts 5
the Grosse-stadt (right) and the Kleine-stadt (left). The
Lake, at the north end of which the town lies, is 26 miles
long and 3 wide, and is one of the chief glories of Ziirich, and
the greatest attraction to strangers. Steamers traverse its length
and breadth, stopping at the various villages, remarkable for
little but their industry. An excursion round the lake is an
afternoon well spent 5 but halting at each station to explore the
neighbourhood repays the longei time it demands (For Lake
of Ziirich, see p. 43.)
The principal things to be seen in Zurich will not detain
the visitor long.
The Gross-Mlinster, built in the Romanesque style of
the eleventh century. It was in this church that Zwingli uttered
his protests against the sins of his day. It is a massive pile,
that rises precipitously above the town, approached by a steep
flight of steps ', an object that would have been imposing, had
the eighteenth century not crowned it with towers modelled
after the fashion of bridecake erections. Below them, on one
side, is niched an ancient equestrian figure of Charlemagne, in
his time a benefactor to the foundation. Here he sits, grey,
impassive, wooden, clutching his sword and sceptre, while
pigeons nestle at his feet, and swallows build in his golden
crown. He has witnessed a good slice of history from his ele-
vated post. Full in view spreads the lovely lake, closed in by
the snowy, peaks of the Sentis, Todi, and Glarnisch^ close to
the shore lies a tiny islet, one green mass of chestnuts, amid
which a solitary poplar rears its slender head. This is the sole
remains of the fortifications, that once defended the city ; they
are now levelled, and turned into pleasure gardens. A bridge
spans the Limmat, closed in on either side by two churches.
Half of the one actually rose from the water, whence it gained
its name of Wasserkirche (Water Church). The cloisters,
dating from the thirteenth century, deserve careful attention j
the fantastic ornamentation of their fan-shaped capitals, and
the grotesque heads peering between the vaulting of their
arches, present architectural beauties such as the cathedral can-
not boast. It is a tall, Romanesque, white-washed building,
Protestant au bout des angles.
The Town Library (admission i ftaac^, ^l^i^oaroKt A
^.0 zOrich.
the Munster Bridge, is in the building which was formerly the
Wasserkirche, or Water Church, founded, it is said, by Charle-
magne. It was much enlarged in 1 860, and contains about 50,000
works. Among the MSS. are valuable autograph letters of the
early Reformers, and Zwingli's Greek Bible, with his own
annotations in Hebrew ; letters of Lady Jane Grey, Frederick
the Great, etc. There is also a very fine Model, in relief,
of Switzerland, well worthy of careful attention. A Collec-
tion of Antiquities will be viewed with much interest by
those who are acquainted with Professor Keller*s work, as they
are relics of the Swiss lake dwellings and dwellers, those
^'Unknown, mysterious dead !
Whose relics Science from the shelly marl
Has gathered, and with vague conjecture based
On fact, esi^ays to read, like some weird scroll,
Or dark enigma by Cadmean Sphinx
Propounded.*' •
" The objects which have been recovered reveal the habits,
arts, conditions of life, and much of the internal history of those
who formed and used them. About the events of their external
history, though much of this can be pretty well imagined, of
course they are silent. Nor have they anything to tell us in
reply to the questions of who the people were, whence they
came, or what became of them ? The information they give us
begins with the time when men in Central Europe had not
attained to a knowledge of metals, and were using implements
of bone and stone for war, hunting, and domestic purposes.
Abundance of their stone tools have been found, and also of
specimens of the work done with them. For instance, some of
the series of piles upon which the dwellings were placed — and
these piles are found by the hundred — we see were hacked to
the point, which was to fit them for driving, with stone chisels
and hatchets. And then, in other series of piles, we pass on to
the era when stone had been superseded by bronze and iron
tools. It is very interesting to have thus before us the actual
tools and the actual work done with them, together with ocular
demonstration of the way in which, by the superiority of their
work, the first metal tools superseded their perfected predeces-
sors of stone." — Zincke,
The Hohe Promenade, under a fine avenue of trees,
conmiands a beautiful view of the Lake. Lavater is buried in
^ • "The Lake Dwellings of Switzerland." By Rev. F. H. Wood, B.A.
ENVIRONS OF zCRICH. ^1
tbe churchyard of St. Ann, close at hand. The Arsenal
(Zeughaus) contains the battle-axe used by Zwingli at the fatal
engagement at Cappel, together with his sword and helmet.
There is also a display of ancient armour, and the crossbow
with which it is alleged William Tell shot the apple from his
son's head.
In the Augustine Church there are two good pictures by
Deschwanden, The Botanical Gardens contain some fine
specimens of Alpine plants^ and a high n;iound^ called the Katz>
from which there is a splendid view.
The Polytechnic is a handsome building, and was founded
for the purpose of a large national school. It embraces in its
curriculum all branches of national industry. It has an endow-
ment of 25,000 fr. per annum from the State. It is built upon
a commanding terrace-like piece of ground, from which a very
fine view may be enjoyed. In this same building is the Uni-
versity, which has been so deservedly noted for the home
which it afforded to many eminent men who were obliged to
fly their fatherland for either political or religious opinions.
In the Environs of Zurich the most interesting excursion
is to the
UETLIBERG,
one of the Albis range. It is only 2864 feet, but com.
mands a magnificent view. A railway with sharp gradient,
similar to the Rigi line, pulls the idle up to its summit in
less than an hour (see p. 42). The wise Romans erected a
specula on this site, whose plateau commands the entire lake
which lies outstretched below, a blue, narrow crescent, encircled
by its fruitful hills. In the far distance, the Stockhorn, the
Jungfrau, Rigi, and Pilatus uprear their splendid heads j on
clear days the Vosges and the Black Forest are also plainly
distinguishable. The Uetliberg is a favourite afternoon
excursion, and no wonder ; for to see the sun cast its last loving
evening rays upon these beauties is a sight not soon forgotten.
It is customary for the school-children of the neighbourhood
to make an excursion up the Uetliberg on Ascension day, and
many of the masters let their flocks plant nurseries of pines on
these occasions. Little forests of various ages thus mark the
flight of time, for the youth of Ziirich link their lives with the
mountain that overshadows their city. It becomes identified
with their home, their childhood, and youth 5 and iaold^i^^i^CDss^
can seek the shelter of self -planted trees. It \s a ^Qe>L\es!N. ^-kbc^ >
4*
Em'lRONS OF ZtJRICH.
and deserves imitation. In this manner, the past and presexit
are joined hand to hand ; the KeUic tumulus^ Roman watch-
tower^ and modem forest all forming portions of one chain of
human brotherhood, while the lake flows calmly on, beautiful
then, now, and for ever.
The Uetliberg Railway.— Early in 1872 a conmiittee
of the inhabitants of Zurich was appointed to take steps to form
a line up the Uetliberg. Messrs. Culmann and Pestalozzi, and
Mr. J. Tobies, chief engineer, were consulted on the subject.
A special difficulty presented itself in the formation of the
ground. The incline from the town to the foot of the mountain
itself was so slight as to need only the ordinary adhesion
principle. But a special system was indispensable for the
ascent of the steep mountain. Thus it would be necessary
either to proceed to the foot of the mountain with an ordinary
locomotive and continue the journey up with one adapted to
incline travelling, or to continue the journey from the incline
to the town with an incline locomotive. It was finally decided
to use the ordinary locomotive under special precautions.
The incline is at its steepest in the last 810 metres before
the station of Uetliberg.
In order that in the descent journey the driver may have
full control over the speed, the locomotive is provided with an
air break, such as is used on the Rigi line, and which can be
made available instantaneously. Additional breaks are used for
stopping the train at stations. The break machine is always at
the lowest part of the train, to prevent accidents by breaking of
couplings, etc.
The trial journeys were from Wiedikon to Uetliberg, a
distance of eight kilometres. In the first journey, which was
accomplished in 21 minutes 26 seconds, the total weight of
train (consisting of one passenger-carriage, containing 30
persons at 70 kilpg. each, and one truck containing 28 rails of
1 75 kilog. each) amounted to over 1 7 tons. The second journey,
with an additional weight of eight tons (nearly), performed the
journey in 22 minutes 3 1 seconds.
It was concluded, from these attempts, that the locomotives
would amply fulfil the appointed conditions, which has proved
to be the case.
In good weather — in bad the line is less frequented—
three passenger-carriages, containing forty persons, can be
forwarded without any danger. These would weigh, together
with the breaks, driver, and stoker, 26 tons, a weight reached
zQrich to coire.
43
in the second descent journey It is hoped that as a lighter •
model of passenger-carriages is contemplated, the weight of the
train will be reduced and risk lessened. Later trials which the
company have sanctioned, promise important results, in con-
nection with this railway, to scientific knowledge. These at
present show that the theory (of using ordinary locomotives)
has asserted its right against cavillings of all sorts. The ascent
of the steepest railway inclines is practicable with the ordinary
adhesive locomotives without any danger.
(For fares and times of starting, see local time-tables.)
ZURICH TO COIRE.
The whole journey may be made (i) by railway 3 but the
pleasantest route is (2) by steamer to Rapperschwyl, and thence
by rail to Coire.
1. Crossing the Sihl, the road curves, and then crosses the
rapid Limmat by an iron bridge. After passing Oerlikon, and
crossing the Glatt, Wallisellen (p. 53) is reached. The traveller
is now in the Lancashire of Switzerland j cotton-mills are con-
tinually met with, especially in the neighbourhood of Uster,
The church in this town has an elegant pointed spire, and the
picturesque Castle, utilized as a Court of Justice, Gaol, and
Inn, is a conspicuous feature in the landscape. Four stations,
Aathal, Wetzikon (see below), Bubikon, the highest part of
the line near the Bachtel, with an inn on the summit ; fine
views. Ruti ; diligence from here to the foot of the Bachtel.
Rapperschwyl, at the extremity of the Lake of Zurich
(P- 45)-
2. By steamboat on
THE LAKE OF ZURICH.
The Lake is twenty-six miles long, and three miles wide.
It is the Windermere of Switzerland, beautiful and picturesque,
but not grand. There are many pretty villages on the banks,
and the background formed by the Alps of Glanis and Uri is
remarkably fine.
The steamboat journey to Rapperschwyl is very interesting,
and should not be omitted, unless the traveller has an important
object in view in taking the train.
On the left bank the first station of interest is Meilen.
HLere, in the winter of 1853, when the water was uauswaJA?}
low, were first discovered those remarkable \ae>]is\xm^\>\ic\^v^^^
44
ZtRICH TO COIRE.
that puzzle ethnologists? Who were these lake-dwellers?
Whence came they ? For what purpose did they isolate them-
selves from the mainland ? Arrows, beads, hammers, spindles,
grain, bones of tame animals, bread, plaited straw, seeds, and
many other evidences of civilization, were exhumed on this spot,
and can now be seen in the Zurich Museum (p. 40). For the
water once more covers the piles at Meilen — they are, indeed,
132 feet from the shore — and to see remains of such pile-build-
ings it is needful to go farther inland to Wetzikon, where a
former lake has become a peat-moor. Imbedded herein are the
remains of such dwellings. It certainly needs some imagination
to reconstruct them ; but the owner, an enthusiastic ethnologist,
has assisted fancy by a little model, that shows a structure built
somewhat after the manner of a Swiss ch&Iet, standing on an
elevated platform, and connected with the shore by a rude
bridge. It was in one of these lake communities that Sir
Arthur Helps laid the scene of ** Realmah."
Meilen produces a fairly good wine j indeed, most of the
low hills round the Lake of Zurich are planted with vineyards,
but the wine produced is only average.
Nearly opposite Meilen is Horgen, a good place for strik-
ing off for Zug and the Rigi.
The next station of interest is Mannedorf, known for an
establishment where maniacs may be healed by prayer. The
house is always full, and cures are said to be effected — chiefly,
however, it appears, upon hysterical and hypochondriacal
patients. The Swiss are in the minority of those who seek its
founder's aid, while Grermans predominate. Lately the Govern-
ment has taken the place under its jurisdiction, the villagers,
who are not favourable to the establislunent, having complained
of the abuses practised.
Stafa is the richest and one of the largest of the lake villages.
It was here that Goethe lived for a while, and wrote his little play,
*' Jery and Baetely,*' inspired by Swiss scenery. Nearly oppo-
site lies the islet of Ufenau, amid whose greenery a ruined
church uprears its walls. In this retired spot, the property of
the Convent of Einsiedeln, Ulrich von Hutten found an asylum
and a grave. When striving to regain health at the Baths of
PfatFers, he was pursued, and would have fallen into the hands
of his enemies, had not Zwingli shielded him, and, commend-
ing him to the care of the Ufenau pastor, directed him thither.
He died in his protector's arms, who laid the restless spirit to
rest at the early age of thirty-six. No stone marks the dod
J
LAKE OF Zt}RlCH. ^^
that covers the remains of Luther's friend, as trasty a cham-
pion of truth as ever enlisted in her service. His pen, some
letters, and an edition of his minor works, with MS. notes,
were his sole possession on his death. They are preserved at
Zurich. Ufenau, it appears, was a favourite burial-place long
before Christian times; its earth has yielded some curious
relics — skeletons, ornaments, and pottery, dating from the very
earliest times.
Wadenschwyl is quite a considerable place, owning a
castle, elegant villas, crape and silk manufactories, tanneries,
and dye-houses ; indeed, it is the chief industrial town on the
lake. From here a diligence starts daily for Einsiedeln, reaching
the village in less than two hours (p. 48).
Richterschwyl, built round a sheltering bay, is another
favourite starting-point for Einsiedeln pilgrims. Its green slopes
are remarkable for the scarlet pocket-handkerchiefs, printed
with Black Madonnas, or views of Einsiedeln, that appear to
grow on them perennially. They are spread out to dry, and a
pretty bright touch they give to the landscape. Zimmermann
lived here for many years ; he lauds the attractions of Richter-
schwyl as a home for philosophers in his famous book on
'•Solitude." ^
The thriving, picturesque town of Rapperschwyl closes
the extreme eastern point of the lake, a conspicuous object long
before the steamer touches below the knoll on which stand its
dark old houses, snugly grouped together, overtopped by a
monastery, and a venerable castle, built for a Crusader lord on
his return from Palestine. The paved terrace commands a fine
vista of the lake, a very gentle view of water and cultivated
slopes ; the hills fall back here, while the Alps are behind the
spectator. Rapperschwyl Rathliaus (Town-hall) deserves a
visit, if only on accoimt of its carved Gothic portal and sculp-
tured wooden roof, not to mention a stove of colossal height,
decorated with allegorical, scenic, and architectural bas-reliefs,
executed in a manner that stamps them contemporary with
Holbein, and not unworthy that master. The artistic beauty
of its ancient stoves is a characteristic of Switzerland. They
are generally made of porcelain tiles ; this, and another preserved
in the barracks at Zurich, are the only known specimens in
iron.
Rapperschwyl has played a large part in Swiss history 5 its
site made it important, and it has had to endure several sie^&«
It was here thiB conspirators met in ijjOjVifeiox^xSQaTCkassaKKfe
46
ZC?vICIl TO COIRE.
at Zurich; while as for Zurich, their feads with that town
appear to have been chronic.
Opposite Rapperschwyl, on a narrow tongue of land jatting
far out into the lake, lies Hurden. A wooden bridge of
the most primitive kind connects the two spots. While three-
quarters of a mile in length, its breadth is restricted to twelve
feet, and consists from end to end of loose planks, laid (not
nailed) on wooden piers. It boasts no railing, so that in a strong
gale it is difficult, sometimes impossible, to traverse ; the meet-
ing of two waggons is never without danger. Only invalids (but
never very nervous ones) or very lazy people will care to drive
across ; it is quite sufficiently unpleasant to meet horses walk-
ing, lest they turn shy. Fortunately the traffic is not consider-
able. The bridge dates from 1358, and has always been repaired
after the primitive style of its first construction. It is held to
be an indubitable testimony for a man's sobriety if he can cross
safely after a convivial evening. On the great pilgrimage days
to Einsiedeln this bridge is one mass of pedestrians ^ and a
strange sight they present, men, women, and children, all clad
in their best, clasping a rosary, and muttering Aves and Litanies
as they walk. On these festival days the stream has been
known to extend in one unbroken line from Rapperschwyl to
Einsiedeln itself.
This bridge ends the Lake of Zurich proper ; the sheet of
water beyond is called the Ober See* It is a shallower basin,
dotted with some pretty villages, little visited except by fisher-
men, and in the winter, when it regularly freezes over, and be-
comes the skating rink of the whole neighbourhood. The
larger lake rarely freezes entirely 5 it did so last in 1830, when
practised skaters flew from Zurich to Rapperschwyl in less than
two hours, a distance of twenty-four miles. At the end of the
Ober See the Linth Canal flows into the Lake of Ziirich
(see below).
Resuming the journey to Coire, the r ilway passes along the
edge of the lake as far as Schmerikon, From Uznach. diligences
run to Brunnen, Lachen, Einsiedeln, Schwyz. Numerous
towns and villages noted for their manufacturing industry are
passed.
Near Schanis, where the French and Austrians met in arms
in 1799, the Linth Canal is approached. This canal owes
its existence to a noble-hearted Swiss, Conrad Escher. Before
LAKE OF VVALLEN'STADT.
47
its formation, the wide plain that extends from Rapperschwyl
to Wallenstadt was a pestilential morass ; the water meandered
over the fields, carrying ague in its train ; the track became
depopulated year by year. To obviate this, Escher proposed to
lead the water into a navigable canal, that should connect the
lakes usefully. He gave a large sum of money towards the
undertaking, demandmg help in return from the Cantons. In
1822, thanks to his resistless energy, the canal was completed,
the land redeemed, and rendered wholesome. Since that time,
the Escher family are permitted to bear the name *' Von der
Linth,** the nearest approach to a title possible in the Swiss
Republic.
At Wesen passengers for Glarus (p. 52) change carriages.
A fine excursion is made from Wesen to' the Speer, 4600 feet
above the lake, commanding a magnificent view. Wesen is
situated at the western extremity of
THE LAKE OF WALLENSTADT,
next to Lucerne, probably the grandest lake in Switzerland j it
is only twelve miles long, and three broad. The northern shore,
with precipitous cliffs, crags, and precipices, is rugged and almost
savage in its character, while on the southern shore the scenery
is fertile and pretty. On the top of the northern precipices is
• the village of Amden, with 3000 inhabitants.
Leaving Wesen, the train passes along the southern side of
the lake, through a series of tunnels, two of which are pierced
with apertures on the side nearest the lake. The views on
emerging from the tunnels are magnificent, especially after the
first two — the Bayerbach Waterfall, the village of Amden, the
Falls of the Serenbach. At Muhlehom excursions may be
made to Mollis, in the valley of Glarus, or boat journeys to the
waterfalls, or to Wesen. At Murg the traveller may be
tempted to lose a train, in order to enjoy the wonderful com-
bination of mountain, lake, and valley, which here forms a gn nd
and imposing spectacle. Near Wallenstadt, which is an
uninteresting place in itself, a view may be obtained of the entire
length of the lake.
Sargans (p. 31), the junction of the railway to Rorschach,
Romanshorn, and Constance 5 the valley of the Rhine is reached,
and from this point the route to Coire is the same as that
described on pp. 31, 32.
49 ZURICH TO EINSIEDELN.
FROM ZURICH TO EINSIEDELN, 8CHWYZ,
AND BRUNNEN.
From Zurich to Waedenschweil by boat or by rail (p. 45),
Or to Richterswyl by the new railway recently opened from
Ziirich to Glarus. From thence by railway to Einsiedeln in
I hour.
The carriage road winds uphill all the way. It leads for
some time past rich meadow-lands bordered by fruit-trees, until
ascending higher, the vegetation grows scantier; blue-eyed
gentians and other mountain flowers peep out from the grass,
while alongside the -road rushes the Sihl, its cold grey colour
betraying its recent glacier origin. The scenery loses its
softer character, and grows Alpine and desolate ; and by the
time Biberbruck, the half-way station, is reached, the grand
dark chains of the Glamer Alps, with their glacier-crowned
summits, come full in view. The road still winds upwards,
till the destination is reached.
Stretched before the wanderer's eye lies a wide green table-
land enclosed by an amphitheatre of pine-clad hills^ dotted with
patches of snow ; beyond which three isolated peaks, almost
dolomitic in their quaint outline, uprear their majestic heads.
In the midst is Einsiedeln (Hotel du Paon), a clump of bar-
rack-like houses, of which there are over seven hundred, five
hundred being inns. No wonder they thrive ; even out of the
pilgrimage season the place is full of devout worshippers, and
at these periods people are glad to sleep under the shade of an
awning in their carts and carriages. On a single elevation, so
as to be in full view, stands the Monastery- Gliurch of Ein-
siedeln, the raison (Tetre of the place, so strangely placed in a
wide, desolate, barren moorland, distant from civilization and
communication. No doubt, it is to these causes it owes its
continued popularity 5 and it depends on the idiosyncrasy of the
casual visitor whether his first thought on arriving is, this is
the home of the miraculous Madonna, or, this is the birth-place
of Paracelsus. A keener air blows here than by the lake, that
is very healthful for a late autumn linger or an early spring
outing.
Einsiedeln 's fame rests upon the. miracles worked by its
Black Madonna. The foundation of the monastery dates back
to Charlemagne. Meinrad, a count of Hohenzollem, and also
a Benedictine monk^ feeling a great craving fur solitude, retired
EINSIEDELN. . .g
to a spot Dear Biberbruck to pursue his devotions unmolested.
Thither he brought his image of the Virgin, presented to him
by the Abbess of Zurich, and here, by the help of another
pious lady, he built a chapel to contain it. In vain did Meinrad
try to live alone 5 people flocked from far and near to seek his
advice. In despair, he retreated still farther into the wilds,
pitching his tent in the present village of Einsiedeln, as the most
inaccessible and unfrequented spot he could find. Food being
scanty, two ravens daily supplied him with the necessaries of
life 5 and so he lived for some time in lonely peace, till robbers,
finally, foully attacked and murdered him, fancying he owned
hidden treasures. The murder was discovered by means of
the ravens, who followed the men to Zurich, shrieking around
their heads, and, by their strange demeanour, attracting atten-
tion. A chapel was built over Meinrad's grave : pious men
loved to dwell in its precincts; thus, by degrees, a stately
monastery and church sprang into being. In Sie year 94C the
whole stood ready for consecration ; and the Bishop of Con-
stance was invited to perform the act. Rising at midnight to
say his orisons, he fancied he heard sweet sounds of music
proceeding from the church, accompanied by all the offices
customary at consecration. Next day, when about to begin the
ceremony himself, a voice cried three times through the church,
" Brother, desist, God himself has consecrated this building.**
This was on September 14th, and since that date the festival of
the Angelic Consecration has been the grand ferial of Einsiedeln.
A papal bull acknowledged the miracle, and promised special
indulgences to pilgrims. Einsiedeln rose in importance, until it
became the richest and most influential monastery in Switzer-
land ; its abbots were held by the Habsburgs as peers of the
realm, and to this day they are known in the Catholic cantons
as Princes of Einsiedeln. Their arrogance grew so great that,
even in the twelfth century, some of the neighbouring com-
munities revolted against their pretensions. Arnold of Brescia,
then preaching at Zurich against the abuses of the clergy, found
willing listeners. But the priests, backed by royalty, obtained
the upper hand, and the leaders of revolt had to sue for pardon
on their knees. From ijij to 15 19 Zwingli was an inmate of
Einsiedeln, and it was on the feast of the Angelic Consecration
that he denounced the Romish errors with such vigour that all
the monks left their cells, and the monastery stood empty for
some time. The French revolutionists plundered the church, and
thought to rob the sacred image, but that had been cait^eA. os^^
^o zOrich to einsiedeln.
into Tyrol for safety before their approach. The year after its
retorn 260,000 pilgrims came to visit it. The church has
many filials as well as landed possessions, vineyards, orchards,
and farms, and the brothers have considerable property in
America.
The present pile of buildings is the sixth or seventh erected
since the foundation, Fire has been busy in its attempts at de-
struction, but it has always spared the sacred image. The
present monastery flanks ^e church on either side, forming a
square, around it, which contains all the conventual requisites.
The church is in very bad taste, a roccoco aberration of the
very worst type conceivable, gaudy with colour, overladen with
gold, jewels, and marble ; an eyesore to a cultivated eye, a very
vision of paradise to the ignorant peasant. It is a large bailding,
consisting of nave and aisles in which side-chapels are niched ;
each of these is sacred to a local saint, whose skeleton lies
beneath the altar. Ntarthe chief entrance is the Madonna's
Chapel, a structure of black marble standing quite isolated in
the nave, a church within a church. The priests performing
the offices enter it by gilt doors, and are enclosed like sheep
in a fold, while without kneel the worshippers. Waxen ex
votos, arms, legs, cows, bulls, horses, dogs, etc., are hung on
its railings $ votive candles, varying from little tapers to sturdy
candles, are affixed to its spikes, injuring the marble by their
constant drippings.
It is not possible to see the Madonna closely, since none but
priests may enter the railed enclosure of this chapel ; but seen
at a distance, the colour is a rich bronze, not black, and there
is something quaint and benign about the figure that lends it a
curious grace. Of course it, too, is overladen with jewels and
fine clodiing; but the faces of the Virgin and Child are far
from unattractive, despite their gaudy envelopments.
Outside the church, a little below the broad flight of steps
that leads to it, is erected a semicircle of booths, entirely devoted
to the sale of rosaries, images, trinkets, devotional prints, and
prayer-books. These rosaries are strung along the walls by the
hundred, and one wonders how the dealers can sell enough to
render the trade lucrative. Rosaries bought at Einsiedeln are,
however^ in great demand, and no pilgrim leaves without buying
at least one for himself and every member of his family and
friends as a memento. They are of every colour, shape, size,
and variety, and a booth hung round with them from ceiling to
floor presents quite a kaleidoscopic scene.
EINSIEDELN TO SCHWYZ. ^1
All Einsiedeln is devoted to the manufactory and sale of
articles of this kind, and to the printing of devotional works.
A little below the booths stands a handsome Marble
Fountain, shaped like an open-worked crown, which shelters
a statue of the Virgin. The water trickles from fourteen spouts.
Tradition says the Saviour drank from one on an occasion not
further particularized, and left his blessing on the waters evermore.
It is the custom for pilgrims to put their mouths to each of these
openings, so as to be certain that their lips have touched the
right one. It is a most strange spectacle to see them, men and
women, going from one to the other spout, and drinking a little
of the water from each.
From Einsiedeln a diligence runs twice daily tO
Sohwyz, or the journey may be made on foot by the Hacken,
a pass commanding fine views from the summit. , On the
diligence road the village of Rothenthurm — so named from a
red tower of defence there standing — is passed. Between two
and three miles from here, on the W., is the Lake of Egeri, .
and on the borders of the lake is Morgarten, where, in 13 15,
a fierce encounter took place between the Swiss and Austrians,
under Duke Leopold. The Swiss only mustered 1300, while
the Austrians had a force of 20,000. The battle did not last
two hours, but the Austrians were cut to pieces.
"It was on a clear winter morning that Duke Leopold
atid his army rode through this mountain pass towards the lake.
The sun glinted on the bright spears and helmets of the men,
who rode along jauntily, apprehending no danger, when suddenly
die rocks seemed to become alive and precipitate themselves
down in massive blocks upon their heads; it literally rained
stones and rude missiles. The Swiss had got wind of the
Austrian intentions, and hearing the Duke*s boast that he would
* tread these peasants under foot,' determined to be beforehand
with him, and hiding themselves in their rocky fastnesses,
thus surprised and utterly routed their enemies, for escape was
impossible. Many gallant knights met their death in this
ignominious manner, or were drowned in the lake into which
their frightened horses dashed full speed. Thus was won
the famous day of Morgarten, of great importance in Swiss
annals, as from that time forward the power of the Austrian was
broken. A chapel on the southern shore of the lake marks the
burial place of the fallen, to whose memory an annual service is
still held every i6th of November. The altar-piece \s ^^\cN»x^
of the battle."
5a ZURICH TO OLARUS.
Schwyz (Hotel Rossli), with a population of 6,000, is the
capital of the canton. It is pleasantly situated at the foot of
the two-homed My then. Switzerland takes its name from
this little out-of-the-way town (p. 66).
Three miles from Schwyz is Brunnen (p. 66), on the
Lake of Lucerne.
Diligence from Schwyz to Zurich, Lucerne^ Arth, or the
Muottathal.
FROM ZORICH to QLARU8*
A new line of railway has been opened from Ziirich to
Glarus. It continues by the Lake of Ziirich to Richterswyl
(pp. 43 — 47). Then past stations Pfqffikon, Lachen, Siebnen,
The Linth Canal (p. 46) is then approached. After station Bilten,
the line turns abruptly southward, omitting Wesen, and joins
the Wesen and Glarus line at Nafels (see below).
Glarus (see below).
FROM WESEN TO GLARUS.
The journey occupies only half- an -hour. The only Roman
Catholic town in the Canton of Glarus is Nafels, which is
passed in the railway. Glarus, the capital of the canton, is
m the midst of innumerable manufactories, the canton being
famous for its various industries. It is situated at the foot of
the Glamisch, ^Viggis, and Schilt. In 1861 it was almost
entirely destroyed by fire. A fine view of the town and
neighbourhood is obtained from the Burghiigel. Zwingli
officiated at the church from 1506 to i J46. Curiously enough,
this church is used by Roman Catholics and Protestants in
common.
Glarus is celebrated for the number of pleasant places for
excursions within an easy distance. Among them, i. the Baths
of Stachelberg, unrivalled for the beauty of their situation^
and held in great repute for a strong sulphurous alkaline water
which dribbles from a spring about two miles off. 2. The
Pragel Pass, by the Muottathal to Schwyz. 3. To Linththal,
where the scenery is magnificent, the valley being enclosed
with snow mountains, the finest of which is the Todi.
GLARUS TO DISSENTI8 OR TR0N8.
This route passes Mitlodi in a picturesque valley, and
SchwandeD, where the Sernf Thai and Linth Thai diverge.
Zt}RICH TO ROMANSHORN. ^^
Proceeding up the Linth Thai, Leukelbach, with its waterfall,
Luchsingen, Hazingen, Diesbach (with fine waterfalls), are suc-
cessively passed.
Near Riiti are the Baths of Stachelberg, with a
powerful mineral spring, but of very limited supply. The
views in the vicinity of the Selbsanft, Kammerstock, and other
peaks, are very good. Excursions to the Todi mountain can be
arranged from here.
Linthtlial has numerous factories in the neighbourhood.
Hence to Dissentis, in the Vorder Rhein Valley, is an arduous
iwelve hours* journey by the Sand Grat Pass (9138 feet). Mag-
nificent views are obtained of the Piz Russein (11,887 f<^t),
and other summits of the Todi group. The path joins the high
road near the wonderful bridge over the Russeiner Tobel from
which either Dissentis or Trons is readily reached.
GLARUS TO ILANZ OR FLIMS, FOR GOIRE.
Glarus to Elm by the Sernf Thai. (See p. 52,)
From Elm to Ilanz is by the Panixer Pass (7907 feet). A
guide is necessary, and the expedition requires thirteen hours'
fatiguing toil. By this route the Russians retreated in 1799.
From Elm to Flims is by the Segnes Pass (8612 feet),
under the Tschingel Spitz (10,230 feet). The path crosses the
glacier, and passes the Martinsloch, the hole through which the
sun shines twice in the year. A guide is needed. This route
is shorter but more difficult than the Panixer.
FROM ZURICH TO ROMANSHORN.
Time, 3 hours. Stations, Oerlikon, Wallisellen, where
the line to Coire, diverges (p. 43), Bietlikon, Bffretikon,
Kemp thai.
Winterthur, Junction with line to Schaffhausen, St.
fallen, and Rorschach. Population 7000. This town was
once free, but gave up its freedom and became subject to
Austria. For the last 400 years it has belonged to Zurich.
Stations, Wlesendcmgen^ Islikon. Frauenfeld, a large manu-
facturing town on the Murg. The capital of the Canton of
Thurgau. Stations, FelweUy Miilhdm, Mdrstetten, IFemfelden,
Biirglen, Sullen, Erlen, AmristuyL Romanshorn, p. 30.
Romanshom to Friedrichshafen (p. 29), to SchatfhauseSb.
and Basle (p. 21), to Rorschach and Colte (,^. ^o)*
^^ ZORICH to RORSCHACH.
FROM ZURICH TO RORSCHACH (BY 8T.
GALLEN).
Zarich to Winterthur, (p. 53). St2Lt\(mSf RSterschen^ Elgg^
AadorJ, Eschlikon, Sirnach, Wyl, where a view of the Sentis
is obtained. A long lattice bridge over the Thur, then Schwar-
zenbach, Utzwyl, Flavryl, a large manufacturing village.
After crossing the river Glatt> stations, Gossan, Winkeln, and
Bruggen, where there is a remarkable bridge over the
valley of the Setter.
St. Gall (Hotel de St. Gall). This town, situated at a great
height, is the capital of the Canton St. Gallen. It has con-
siderable cotton manufactories, and is sometimes called the
Manchester of Switzerland. The Abbey, founded by St.'
Gallus, an Irish monk, early in the 7th century, was at one
time (8th century) the most celebrated seat of learning in
Europe. The cliurcll> rebuilt 1760, possesses some very an-
cient relics. In the town are a Museum, Town Library, and
Reading Room. The favourite excursion from St. Gall is to
Appenzell and Weissbad, by way of Trogen and Gais by
diligence. Whey cure establishments abound in all this neigh-
bourhood. Innumerable excursions can be made from Weiss-
bad, notably the Wildkircllli, a hermitage dedicated to St.
Michael, where Mass is held on St. Michael's Day. Close by
here is a stalactite cavern. The ascent of the Sentis, the
highest mountain in Appenzell, can be made from Weissbad
in about four hours.
From St. Gallen to Rorschach, a distance of 9 miles.
Stations St, Fiden, Morschwyl, are passed, frequent views of the
Lake of Constance are obtained j and soon after the train has
passed the stone bridge over the Goldach, a very fertile region
IS entered, and continues to Rorschacli (p. 30).
ZURICH TO LUCERNE BY RAIL.
[For Zurich to Lucerne by way of Lake of Zurich, Horgen,
and Zug, p. 57.]
By railway the journey occupies about two hours. Stations,
Altstetten (views of the Uetilberg), Urdorf, Blrmensdorf,
Bonstetten, Hedingen, Jffoliern^ Meimensteiten, Knonau, Zug.
Zug, population between 4000 and 4500, of whom only a few
are Protestants. The town, which is the capital of Zug, the
zOrich to lucerne. j5
smallest canton of the Confederation, contains yarious objects of
interest.
Among them, is the Arsenal, wherein is to be found the
ancient standard, stained by the blood of its gallant but un-
fortunate bearer, Pierre Collin, who perished at the brittle of
Arbedo, in 1422, when 3000 Swiss valiantly, but fruitlessly,
strove to maintain the field against 24,000 Milanese.
In the church of the Capuchins is an Entombment by
Flamingo, In St. Michael's church is a bone-house, where
hundreds of skulls, labelled and inscribed with the name, age,
and place of residence of the deceased, are piled up.
THE LAKE OF ZUG
is 9 miles long and 3 broad, and is 1370 feet above the level
of the sea.
The lake is most beautiful, and possesses many points of
interest. The adjacent country is highly picturesque j the richly
wooded banks, with the distant hills, and to the south, the
stately Rigi, forming a very picturesque background. Small
steamers are continually plying in various directions across the
lake, affording tourists every facility for visiting the more interest-
ing portions of the surrounding shores. See local time tables.
A short distance from Zug, on the steamboat journey,
Pilatus, the Ross-Stock, and the Frohnalp are seen. Immensee
is a charming little place, and those who have left the railway
and intend to ascend the Rigi on foot, had better do so from this
place. Arthj at the Southern extremity of the lake, is between
the Rigi and the Rossberg. Train or omnibus from here to
Goldau, where, in 1806, a large portion of the Rossberg, pene-
trated by the heavy rains, was precipitated from a height of
3*000 feet into the valley below, swallowing up four villages,
with upwards of five hundred of their inhabitants, together
with several visitors. The traces of the disaster are still to be
seen at Goldau and Lowerz.
Railway from Arth to the summit of the Rigi (see p. 71).
A diligence runs twice a day from Arth to Brunnen, (p. 66).
Omnibus from Immensee to Kiissnacht (p. 64).
Zug to Lucerne by rail. The bank of the Lake of Zug
is skirted. Stations, Chajn (look out for a charming view of
Zug here), Rothkreuz, where the valley of the Reuss is entered,
Gisikon, Ebikon. Then the line unites with the Swiss Central
Railway, and Lucerne is reached.
Lucerne (p. 58).
j6 zOrich to zuo.
ZORICH to ZUG, by the ALBI8.
The Albis road skirts the west bank of the Lake of Zurich
as far as to Wollishofen 3 then in a southerly direction to
Adlischwyl, where a wooden bridge crosses the Sihl. The
ascent then commences to Ober Albis, the highest part of
the road. Near here is the Hochwacht, and the traveller is
recommended to ascend to the pavilion on the suamiit» where
a magnificent view is to be obtained. Then descend past the
Tiirler See, a miniature lake, to Hausen, a pleasant village, with
villas and a homcsopathic establishment. Then continue to
Kappel, a place memorable in the history of the Reformation.
When the Roman Catholic Cantons of Lucerne, Zug, Schwyz,
Uri, and Unterwalden had declared war against Zurich and
Berne, their troops advanced to Kappel, where a battle was
fought, October 11, 153 1. And here Zwingli fell. "When
the first ranks had fallen and the rest fled, Zwingli, with a
halbert in his hand, which he stretched across their course, in
vain attempted to restrain their flight, calling out to them * not
to fear, for that they were in a good cause } to commend them-
selves to God, and stand their ground.' He appears to have
been first beaten to the ground by a stone, and afterwards, on
rising, or attempting to rise, to have been repeatedly thrown
down, and trodden upon by the crowd. At length he received
a wound in the throat from a spear, which he supposed to be
mortal -, when, sinking down on his knees, he exclaimed, ' Is
this to be esteemed a calamity ? They can kill the body, but
the soul they cannot touch.* When the soldiers came to strip
the slain, he was found yet alive, lying on his back, with his
hands clasped together, and his eyes lifted up to heaven. He
was asked if he wished a confessor to be sent for j then if he
would invoke the Virgin j and on his declining both, he was
immediately despatched. When the body was discovered to be
that of Zwingli, it was condemned by a military tribunal to be
cut in quarters, and then burned to ashes ; which barbarous
but impotent sentence, with other indignities, was accordingly
carried into execution."
The spot where the body of Zwingli was found is indicated
by a metal plate in the rock, with a Latin and German inscription.
In the old Gothic Church at Kappel may be seen some good
stained glass. Continuing from Kappel, the traveller will next
reach Baar (p. 57), where the road from Horgen to Zug is joined.
Baar to Zug, two miles.
BASLE TO LUCERNE.
57
ZURICH TO THE RIGI AND LUCERNE, BY
HORGEN AND THE LAKE OF ZUQ.
There is not a pleasanter journey from Zurich to Lucerne
than by this route, although it takes a much longer time than
by rail.
The traveller will take steamboat from Zurich to Horgen
(p. 44), and then proceed on foot, by carriage, or by omnibus to
Zug. The road ascends as far as to Hirzel, and then descends
to the valley of the Sihl. From the covered Sihl Bridge to
Baar the views are very beautiful. Baar (p. 56) is celebrated
for its charnel-house, where may be seen the skulls of many
generations of the inhabitants piled up in a pyramid. Zag is a
little more than two miles from Baar.
For the Rigi the traveller will proceed as far as to Arth
(p. 55) by steamboat on the Lake of Zug, where he will disem-
bark, and ascend the mountain either on foot or by rail (p. 71).
For Lucerne, take the steamboat to Immensee, where
omnibus can be taken to Kussnacht (p. 64)^ and from Kiiss-
nacht by steamboat to Lucerne (p. j8).
For this trip, as it is most desirable to arrange it so that
steamboats and omnibuses may be found in correspondence, the
traveller is recommended to start from Zurich by the first boat
in the morning, and consult local time-tables for the rest.
FROM BASLE TO LUCERNE.
From Basle to Olten (p. 34).
The short journey from Olten to Lucerne (thirty-three miles)
is through delightful country ; and as many travellers approach
Switzerland by this route, it is a memorable one with them, as
they get their first glimpses of the glories of the Bernese
Oberland. Take a seat on the left of the carriage.
Aarburg is the first station after leaving Olten. The old
castle (1660) was once the residence of the governors, then a
State prison, and it is now a gaol and arsenal. Aarburg was
destroyed by fire in 1840. Zoflngen, celebrated, amongst
other things, for two good ball-rooms, built on the branches of
some old trees^ close by the Schiitzenhaus, and for remains of a
Roman bath, and other ancient relics. Reiden; the large
house on the hill near the station was once a Lodge of the
Knights of Malta. Stations, Dagmersellan^ Nebikon, IVcuiwyl
(here the first view of the Monch, Eiger, J\M\^ic2L\x> «l\3A ^>ioet
58 LUCERNE.
mountains^ is obtained). Sursee, a pleasant old town, with
some quaint architecture. The double eagle of the House of
Habsburg is still upon its gates. A little beyond Nottwyl the
Lake of Sempach is skirted. The lake is small — six and a half
miles by two and a half, and not beautiful. The neighbourhood
all around Sompacll is, however, very interesting, on account
of its being the scene of one of the most thrillinsc chapters in
Swiss history. The Austrians for the third time invaded
Switzerland. Only 1400 Swiss met their overwhelming army,
under the command of Duke Leopold. The battle would have
been fatal to the Swiss, but for the heroism of Arnold von
Winkelried, who threw himself upon the Austrian spears.
^ Sdll on the terried files he pressed,
He broke their ranks and died.'*
Inspired with a new courage^ the Swiss, rushing over
Winkelried's dead body, slew 2600 of the enemy, and signally
defeated the Austrians. The battle took place July 9, 1386;
four stone crosses mark the site of the engagement.
Between Sempach and Rothenburg, good views of the Rigi
and Pilatus. Emmenhrucke^ by the side of the Reuss (left)^ then
through a tunnel^ and Lucerne is reached.
LUCERNE (Germ., Luzern).
[Hotel du Cygne (Swan), conducted by Mr. H. Haefeli. This
Hotel is delightfully situated (reconstructed in Renaissance
style in 1878) close to the steamboat stations on the lake,
and commands magnificent views. Circular Tickets and
Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Thos. Cook and Son may be
obtained here.]
The Railway Station is on the left bank of the lake.
The New Bridge crosses the Reuss between the station and the
town.
The Post Office is also on the left bank, near the Church
of the Jesuits. There is a branch office on the Schwanen-
platz.
Steamboats (which touch at the Railway Station) run at
intervals throughout the day to Fliielen and back (p. 6^). See
local time bills.
Rowing Boats (not recommended). See fixed tariff.
Diligence O flice, at the Branch Post-ofiSce, Schwanenplatz.
LUCERNE. ^Q
Lucerne^ one of the most populous towns in Switzerland
(16,000 inhabitants) is situate on the western extremity of its
lake, by the River Reuss. Its walls and watch-towers date from
the 14th century^ and in ancient days the town of Lucerne
occupied a far more important position among Swiss towns than
now. It has always been a residence of the Papal Nuncios, and
at the present day nine- tenths of its inhabitants are Roman
Catholics.
Lucerne contains numerous old buildings. Its lake is the
finest in Switzerland, and in its immediate neighbourhood are
t«70 of the most celebrated Swiss mountains^ Rigi and Pilatus—
famous, not for their height^ but because from them most can
be seen.
As the traveller leaves the Railway Station, he will be
charmed with his first view. In front is the lak^, which^ in
other parts rugged and sublime, wears at this point a fair and
smiling aspect. To the right is Pilatus; far away in the
distance, seeming to rise from lake to sky, are the mountains of
the Bernese Oberland ; opposite is the Rigi, with the villages
nestling at its feet; and to the left is the town, with its
churches, its towers, its queer old streets, and its four bridges.
Of these bridges, two are modem, but the other two number
with the special sights of Lucerne. They are not thrown
straight across the river, and are roofed over.
The oldest is the Kappelbriicke (Chapelbridge), dating
from the beginning of the 14th century. It is decorated with
154 curious paintings, so suspended, that anyone crossing
from the north side beholds in succession seventy-seven scenes
from the lives of the joint patron saints of the town, SS. Mau-
rice and Leger ; but coming in the opposite direction, the pic-
tures seen are commemorative of events in the history of the
Swiss Confederation. This structure, however, is likely to be
replaced by one that will be passable for vehicles -, and then, at
the behest of modem convenience, will a truly historical land-
mark disappear. Near the north end of the bridge is a
Chapel, dedicated to St. Peter, and containing four good paint-
ings by Deschwanden, Hard by stands the Wasserthurm,
rising from the middle of the river. It is now used as a de-
pository for the archives of the town. It was originally a Roman
lighthouse (Laoema),from which the town probably derived its
name.
The other covered bridge, near the Basle Gate, is called the
Muhlenbriicke (Mill-bridge). It was erected ewVqV\^^
6o LUCERNE.
15th century. It is decorated with thirty-four *' strange pic-
tures, with strange inscriptions," representing "The Dance of
Death." Our readers may remember the conversation between
Prince Henry and Elsie in Longfellow's " Golden Legend " —
" The dance of Death.
All that go to and fro must look upon it,
Mindful of what they shall be ; while beneath.
Among the wooden piles, the turbulent river
Rushes Impetuous as the river of Li^.**
The Stiftskirche, or Hofkirche, dedicated to S. Leger,
stands at the eastern end of the town. The body of the
church is in the Italian 17th century style j the two slender
towers are older, and date from the beginning of the i6th
century. It has two side-altars, with carved wood reliefs, and
finely -carved stalls and painted glass windows ', also an excellent
organ, upon which there are daily performances, for the benefit
of those willing to invest one franc for the privilege of hearing
it. The peal of bells is fine, and the ancient mode of ringing
is still adhered to. On the largest bell is the inscription, '* Vivos
voco, mortuos plango, f algura frango '* ('* I call the living, be-
wail the dead, disperse the storms *'). Round three sides of the
churchyard are arcades j the southern one affords beautiful views
of the lake and the mountains. In these cloisters are some fine
frescoes (two by Deschwanden), and numerous monuments in
good preservation. The old tombstones are very curious j on
some of them are carved the insignia of the guild or trade to
which the deceased belonged in his lifetime ; as, for instance, a
hammer and tongs for a blacksmith, a fish for a fishmonger, etc.
The GhurcSl of the Jesuits, with its handsome interior,
is a good example of the characteristic style of that order.
Notice the altar-piece and relics in the second chapel on the
right.
The Scliweizerliof Quai, with its fine avenue of trees,
which is the promenade of Lucerne, stands on ground reclaimed
from the lake, over which there was at this part formerly a very
long bridge, stretching as far as the Stiftskirche. On the
parapet will be seen an index to the chain of the Alps. The
view from hence comprises a fine semicircle of mountains, from
the Rigi to Pilatus. The Rigi Kulm, the Rossberg, Vitznauer
Stock, Ross Stock, Biirgenstock, Buochser Horn, the Titlis,
Stanserhorn, etc., etc., will be readily distinguished by means of
the indicator referred to.
J"\ the Town Hall are some fine carvings, done in 16051
LUCERNE. 6 1
by a native of Breslau. There is also an old fresco, representing
the death of Gundolfingen, who led the men of Lucerne at the
battle of Sempach.
The Arsenal (fee demanded) is full of objects of interest
to the antiquary. The reputed sword of Tell is shown here;
also a number of halberds^ battle-axes, and suits of armour
from native battle fields, especially from that of Sempach.
Two flags captured at sea in the memorable battle of Le-
panto, when the maritime power of the Turks in Europe was
finally broken. These were presented by a Knight of Malta^
who was a native of Lucerne.
The famous Lion of Lucerne, near the Stiftskirche,
is the greatest curiosity of the place. It is a large lion hewn
out of the solid sandstone rock, in memory of the Swiss Guards
who died in defending the royal family of France, in August
and September, 1792. It is truly a magnificent work of art,
'* admirable in conception and execution, and touching forcibly
both the imagination and the feelings.*' This colossal piece of
sculpture, 28i feet long and 18 feet high, represents a dying
lion, with his side transfixed by a broken spear, and protecting
the shield of the Bourbons even in the agonies of death. It is
surrounded with ivy and other creeping plants, and from the
rock beside it a mountain stream leaps down to a pool below
in which the lion is reflected. This exquisite monument was
originally suggested by General Pfyffer, one of the surviving
Swiss. The model (still to be seen in a building hard by)
was finished by Thorwaldsen, and from this design (with some
slight alterations) the actual monument was sculptured by
Ahom, of Constance. Near the lion is a chapel where, on
August loth, a special solemn mass is celebrated in memory of
the slain. The altar-cloth is the work of the Duchess d'Angou-
16me, daughter of Louis XV L, the last survivor of the terrible
scene annually commemorated.
Close at hand is StaufFer's Alpine Museum, which is
well worthy the attention of any tourist with a taste for natural
history. There are numerous groups of Alpine animals and
birds, and extensive collections of butterflies and botanical
specimens. All the specimens in the Museum are the work of
Stauffer, the proprietor, an intelligent man, who is always ready
to give information as to the natural history of the Alps.
Duplicates of his specimens are on sale. He is proposing to
establish a collection of living specimens of Alpine birds and
animals.
62 LUCERNE.
In the same immediate neighbourhood is the celebrated
Glacier Garden (Gletscher-garten). Here> in the so-called
" Giants' Pots," and other phenomena, the student of nature
may see the still existent results of the mighty forces that were
at work in that marvellous undated epoch, when enormous
glaciers, to which any now known are mere bagatelles, covered
the whole of Europe. Besides the sixteen excavations illus«
trative of glacial action, there are other attractions for visitors
to this garden, es|)ecially a collection of objects found in the
'Make dwellings" discovered atBaldegg, 12 miles from Lucerne,
in 1 87 1. These objects are of great interest; they consist of
66 instruments made of bone, 6 of wood, and 140 of stone;
besides about 100 fragments of pottery, various specimens of
fruit and leather, and a number of teeth, bones, antlers, and
horns of animals. Amongst the bone implements we may
specially note a drinking-vessel, very elegantly wrought 5 a spade
of stag's horn ; a stag's horn with two stone chisels 5 a weaving
or knitting instrument ; various pointed and cutting instru-
ments ; a knitting-needle made of a boar's tooth ; a well-pre-
served bone knife in shape of a dagger. Amongst the wooden
instruments, a little oval plate, with a small hole in each focal
point, is the most noticeable. Amongst the stone implements
are many hatchets — one made of flinty slate, very well wrought;
another of greenstone, with an edge as sharp as a knife ; also
many chisels, hammers, knives, spear-heads, and grinding-
stones. The pottery includes conical weights for flshing-nets,
and fragments of various clay vessels, some prettily ornamented.
On one is the crust of something cooked, and partly burnt ! The
vegetable collection consists of hazel-nuts, an acom^ some
carbonized wheat, carbonized pieces of apple, etc. The animal
specimens are two small pieces of untanned thick leather, and
the teeth, horns, claws, bones, of the boar, stag, roebuck, bear,
badger, beaver, ox, sheep, goat, horse, and dog.
It is not so much for any special attractions in the town
itself, as for its beautiful situation and surroundings,
that Lucerne is justly celebrated. From the windows of the
Swan Hotel you may gaze upon the lovely lake, and count
upwards of a score of mountain peaks in the encircling pro-
spect ; or you may stroll through groves of trees, and along
pleasant promenades close at hand, and enjoy magnificent
scenery with but little exertion. Short walks to the Drei
Linden, AUenwinden, or Little Rigi, in the vicinity, will afford
varied and more extensive prospects.
LAKE OF LUCERNE. go
Of somewhat longer expeditions in the neighbourhood there
are plenty for which visitors can arrange to walk or ride, as
suits their strength or convenience. There is the fine view
from the chapel in Herrgottswald (God*s Wood), reached by
following the carriage road for 4^ miles, and then tracking the
forest paths for an hour, and finally by ascending a prodigious
number of wooden steps. This jaunt may be extended to the
beautiful valley known as the Eigenthal.
The pretty village of Adligenschwyl (4J miles) is a favourite
drive 5 the route can be varied, and pedestrians can take a plea-
sant footpath from the Kiissnacht road.
Lovers of the rod and line will find good sport at Rothsee,
I i mile along the Zurich road.
For the view from the Giitsch, at the back of the Hospital
Church, in the Basle road, it is well worth taking the trouble of
the ascent.
An interesting drive of about 10 miles is to take the Berne
road for nearly 4 miles, then turning off by the Gorge of
the Renkloch, at the foot of Pilatus, and returning by Krienz
to Lucerne.
But these short trips are all on terra Jirma^ whereas it is by
crossing the bosom of the lovely lake that the places of chief
interest are reached, and the fairest charms of the district dis-
closed.
THE LAKE OF LUCERNE.
There is not to be found in Europe a lake more complete
and perfect in the grandeur of its mountain scenery, the quiet
beauty of its banks, the poetry of its legendary associations, and
the endless variety of its charms, than the Lake of Lucerne,
otherwise known as the Vierwaldstfttter See, or Lake of the
Four Forest Cantons. It is between twenty-five and twenty-
six miles long, and varies from one to four miles in breadtti. In
shape it is nearly cruciform. A thousand objects will interest
the traveller on every hand. " So clear is the lake, that you
can in some deep places see to the bottom 5 it does not look
like water, but a sheet of blue glass spread over deep caverns ;
and the fish look as if they were floating in air, and the weeds
like uncultivated gardens Enchantment gilds the scene ;
now a castle on a hill, now a shrine with a richly decorated
image of the Virgin reared upon some isolated piece of rocVL\
now an arm of the lake, disclosing a wocld oi NvoTA^^ts^^c^sax^^
6^ LUCERNE.
never dreamt were there.** These are some of the things for
iivhich the eyes must be kept open.
The steamers for the Lake Tour start from the station
immediately facing the Swan Hotel. There are six or eight
boats a day, some of which are express. Tickets are issued for
the tour of the lake, in which case the journey may only be
broken at Fliielen. It must be noted that different steamers
stop at different places, and proper inquiries must therefore be
made before embarking. Tourists who have not much time at
their disposal will probably be content with the trip to Fliielen
and back (which will give them a general survey of the lake),
and of course an ascent of the Rigi (see p. 70).
Soon after leaving Lucerne by the steamer, a splendid view
of the town and its environs is obtained. After passing the
bold promontory of the Meggenhom,. and the little island of
Altstad, the Bernese Alps lift their snowy summits into view.
So far, the adjacent shores have been low hills, sprinkled with
villas ; we now see the two bays of Alpnach and Kussnacht
stretching away to west and east respectively.
The former bay affords a picturesque trip to Alpnach
(Hotel Pilatus) by steamer in i\ hour, or by rowing boat in
3 hours. The landing-places are Hergiswyl (for the ascent of
Pilatus, p. 69) 'y Stanzstad, with its bridge across the lake to
Acheregg, its old fourteenth century tower by the waterside j
and the majestic Titlis, rising to the height of 11,000 feet, in
the backgroimd. The Castle of Rotzberg, on the east side of
the lake, has its romantic legend^ telling how, when Switzerland
was expelling the Austrians in 1308, Jagelli, a young Swiss
soldier, was admitted to the castle by Annelli, a diamsel within
it, and then managed to introduce a band of his companions,
who speedily made themselves masters of the stronghold.
The next stopping-place is Rotzloch, and at the extremity
of the lake is Alpnach- Gestad. Here was situated the noted
** slide,*' an immense wooden trough down the slopes and across
the ravines, down which timber hewn on Mount Pilatus rushed
eight miles in six minutes, for transmission by the Reuss and
Rhine to Holland. Napoleon L was the chief customer for his
dockyards, till his retirement to Elba. The church is built of
wood that came down by this slide.
The western bay (that of Kussnacht) has on its northern
bank the ruins of an Austrian fort, New Habsburg, destroyed
in 1352 by the Swiss. The town of Kussnacht stands at the
extremity of the bay.
LAKE OF LUCERNE. 65
A capital and very enjoyable excursion can be made by
leaving the steamer at Kussnacht, and taking the omnibus to
Immensee (p.5j), thence proceeding by steamer to Arth, and
on by diligence to Schwyz and Brunnen (p. 66). From thence
Lucerne is reached by steamer. The whole round would
occupy between nine or ten hours, exclusive of stoppages.
We will now pursue the central route across the lake to
Fliielen, first pausing to notice the two giant forms that tower
so conspicuously on either hand — Pilate on the right, grim and
formidable^ frowning in rugged grandeur j the Rigi on the left,
beautifully clothed with forest, and field, and orchard, smiling
as if storm and tempest were things undreamt of.
Passing the promontory of Tanzenberg, and the ruined
Castle of Hertenstein, we reach Weggis, the best landing-
place for those who mean to walk up the Rigi. It is a tranquil
little village, whose inhabitants subsist chiefly by selling fruit
to the people of Lucerne ; and if any traveller wishes to linger
by the lake, free from anything like town distractions, he cannot
do better than seek the calm stillness of Weggis. Vitznau
is the next place reached, wearing more of an air of bustling im-
portance as it is the terminus of the Rigi railway (p. 7 1) . Behind
the village is the high, precipitous Rothenfluh, containing the
stalactite grotto, 400 yards long, known as the Waldisbalm,
little visited, however, as it is difficult of access. At Vitznau it
appears as if the end of the lake was reached ; for a promontory
from the Rigi on the left, and another from the Biirgenstock on
the right, somewhat overlap each other. But between these
two points, called the Nasen (Noses), the steamer pursues its
course, and a new scene bursts upon us in the broad and beau-
tiful gulf of Buochs, with the Stanzer Horn (6000 feet), and
the Buochser Horn {5600 feet), watching over it. Near the
foot of the latter mountain stands Buochs, sacked by the French
in 1798. A little farther on, on the same shore is Bekenried,
a picturesque little village, and a justly popular watering-place,
with ample facilities for excursions to Stanz, Meiringen, Seelis-
berg, etc.
On the opposite side of the lake is the pretty little village of
Gersau, well sheltered from wind and storm and with a climate
so mild, that it affords a capital resting-place for invalids in the
colder months of the year. Gersau has a notable history. In
the year 1390 it bought its freedom from the Lords of Moos,
and remained a well-administered, independent republic till its
conquest by the French in 1798. It was annexed to 1^^ C^s^'^t^l
56 LUCERNE.
of Schwyz in 1817. East of Gersau is the Kindlimord Chapel,
"which derives its name from the tragic act of a poor fiddler,
who returning from a marriage festival, murdered his starvinf
child, at the place indicated by the black cross on the rocks.
Excursions may be made from Gersau to the Rigi-Scheideck
and the Hochfiuh.
Proceeding from Gersau, we see the My then, or Mitre Peaks
(5900 feet), and at their base Schwyz, the capital of the Canton
of the same name. From Treib, at which the steamer next
calls, Seelisberg is visited, and also the picturesque and well-
sheltered retreats for invalids near the chapel of Maria-Sonnen-
berg.
Opposite Treib is Brunnen (Hotel Adler), once a town
of considerable commercial importance. There are some
^ood hotels and pensions. The air is pure and cool, even
in the summer months, and the surrounding scenery very fine
On the Sust are two legendary paintings, one representing a
contest for the baptism of the land between two of the old
Swedish invaders, on which occasion, as the inscription testifies,
" Swyter besiegt Swen und griindet Schwyz" (Swyter conquered
Swen, and founded Schwyz) ; the other picture represents the
three confederates of Griitli. It was at Brunnen that Aloys
Reding roused his compatriots to resist the French in 1798.
From Brunnen a number of pleasant trips may be readily
undertaken. To ascend the Stoss (4000 feet) will take two and
a half hours ; the Frohnalp will require two hours longer.
Schwyz can be reached in half an hour's drive. It is a
town of nearly 6000 inhabitants, and of some historical im-
portance. The Canton gave its name to Switzerland, as its
sons were the most distinguished in the celebrated defeat of the
Austrians at Morgarten in 13 15. At Schwyz may be seen an
historical model of the Muotta and the retreat of the Rus-
sians before the French in 1799, when, in a fearful struggle, lasting
for eighteen days and nights, Suwarrow was beaten from point
to point, losing 6000 men, and most of his horses and artillery,
and only returning to Russia himself to die within sixteen days.
Of other places easily reached from Brunnen, we may just
mention the much-frequented Curhaus Axenstein, on the
Brandli (three miles), to which an omnibus runs twice daily;
Morschach 5 the Frohnalpstock -, Lake of Lowerz ; Fall of the
Grestubtach j the Gross Mythen, etc.
Brunnen to Schwyz, Einsiedeln, and Zurich, p. 48.
Bnmnen by Arth to Zug, p. 55.
LAKE OF LUCERNE. gy
On leaving Brunnen, we enter that portion of the lake of
which the shores are sacred ground in the legendary lore of
Switzerland. This is the Bay of Uri. The scenery is here
much bolder than in other parts of the lake 5 in many places
bare, perpendicular cliffs rising in romantic ruggedness. At the
entrance to the bay, close to Treib, is the Mytenstein, with its
inscription in huge gilt letters, executed in 1859. It commemo-
rates the gratitude of Uri, Schw}'z, and Unterwalden to the
German poet Schiller, for the drama in which he has embodied
the legend of Tell. At Griitli, which is simply a green plain, 650
feet above the water, with a few unpretending dwellings spread
on its fertile surface, was held the meeting of the Swiss con-
federates (one of whom was the father-in-law of the celebrated
William Tell), who determined to maintain their independence
against the tyranny of Austria. It was on November 8, 1307,
that Arnold of Unterwalden, Fiirst of Uri, and Stauffacher of
Schwyz, and thirty others, bound themselves together, " for the
good of their brethren, and the evil of no man," and solemnly
swore to drive out the Austriaus, without taking revenge for
their oppression. So well did they carry out their resolution,
that, after a series of wars, lasting one hundred and fifty years,
their descendants succeeded in establishing their independence,
which they have ever since retained. At Griitli are still pointed
out the three springs which are said to have made their miracu-
lous appearance when the confederates joined hand in hand in
solemn covenant.
** For the father-sDJl which they trod.
For freedom and hearth, they stood.
While they vowed to the mightiest God
To cast out the tyrant brood.
Thus our hearts, with thy spirit still glowing,
O Grutli, thy name shall retain,
So long as our Rhine shall be flowing,
So long as our Alps shall remain."
The Swiss Practical Guide states that '* the owner of the
Grutli wa3 about to build an hotel there in 1858. The children
of Switzerland undertook a subscription to prevent this dese-
cration J they limited each offering to ten cents (one penny),
and the result was double the amount required."
Tell's Platte is a small rocky shelf, on which it is said
that the Swiss patriot leaped from the boat of Gressler. Above
the ledge of rock is a little chapel called " TelV^ CiVva^^i^
which was erected about thirty years aitex >u!aft ^^?i>Cci o\ '^^^ %
gg LUC£RN£.
it contains some pictures and rough frescoes illustrating the
hero's history. On the Friday after Ascension Day, this little
chapel is the scene of a national demonstration, mass being
performed, and a patriotic sermon delivered, in presence of large
numbers of people assembled for the occasion from all parts of
the Swiss Republic.
Above Teirs Chapel is the fine new Axenstrasse,
with its tunnel a little further on through the cliffs of the
Axenberg, from the openings in which exquisite panoramic
views are obtained. This wonderful road, from Gersau and
Brunnen to Fliielen, is a fine specimen of engineering. Till
1865 the east shore of the Bay of Uri was impassable, except
by a very difficult mountain path, leading by Morschach and
Sisikon.
The terminus of the lake journey is at Fluelen (Hotel Croix
Blanche et Poste). At a distance of two miles (omnibus, half-
franc) is Altdorf, at an elevation of 1500 ft. Here are a colossal
plaster statue of Tell, and a fountain — the former marking the
position of the father, and the latter that of the child, in the
celebrated trial of skill directed by the tyrant Gessler. The tall
tower is of earlier date, the frescoes having been added since.
It will be remembered that, according to the legend (now gene-
rally received as mythic), (ressler had elevated his hat in the
market-place, and ordered all passers-by to make obeisance.
For refusing. Tell was ordered to show his famed skill in archery
by shooting an apple off his son's head. He was successful, but
Gessler saw a second arrow, which Tell had secreted. On being
questioned, the bold archer said it was for Gessler's heart, had
the child been harmed. Tell was then, for his audacity, taken
prisoner, and hurried away in G«ssler's boat towards his castle
It KUssnacht. A tempest arose 5 none but Tell could steer ;
he seized the opportunity, sprang ashore at what is now known
as Tell's Platte, intercepted Cressler at KUssnacht, and killed
nim. At Biirglen (one and a half miles from Altdorf), a chapel
laarking Tell's birthplace, and a bridge where Tell died in try-
ing to save a drowning child, are shown.
Of late years the William Tell legends have been gradually
passing from the domain of history into that of fiction. The
first book which dared to broach so startling a heresy was pub-
licly burnt at Altdorf by the hangman. But in spite of this
spirited protest, the idea has gained ground. Contemporary
chroniclers make no allusion to the alleged events of his career
and Dot for a century or two do we find any trace of the tradi
PILATUS. 6g
tions in their present form. The establishment of the chapels^
and the widespread belief in the legends are almost the only
arguments in their favour. Those most qualified to judge,
whilst conceding that there probably was a William Tell amongst
the confederates, assert that the events linked with his name by
imaginative patriots rest upon no more solid basis of fact than
. do the stories of Sir Lancelot of the Lake, or the Lily Maid of
Ashtolat, in the fascinating pages of the Laureate.
For route over the St. Gothard Pass, see p. 172.
PILATUS
may be ascended either from Hergiswyl (p. 64), or Alpnach
(p. 64), to which places steamers ply three times daily, the
journey to Hergiswyl occupying thirty-five minutes, and to
Alpnach one hour and a quarter. On either side there is a good
hotel — that of theKlimsenhomonthe Hergiswyl side and Bellevue
on the Alpnach side. The route which gives the greatest variety
of scenery is to ascend by way of Hergiswyl and descend to
Alpnach, The ascent occupies three and the descent four hours.
In ascending this mountain we shall be treading in the footsteps
of royalty, inasmuch as Her Majesty Queen Victoria, with the
Princess Louise and Prince Arthur, ascended it from Alpnach,
on August 31, 1868.
It is one of the most interesting mountains in these parts ;
being easy of access from Lucerne, and not diflficult of ascent,
except just toward the summit. The name of the mountain has
been the subject of much dispute, some alleging that it is merely
a corruption of the Latin '^pileatus,** capped, in allusion to the
clouds which generally surround its summit. It has been, and
is to this day, the weather guide to all this part, and the popular
saying runs thus : —
" If Pllatus wears his cap, serene will be the day ;
If his collar he puts on, then mount the rugged way ;
But if his sword he wields, then stay at home, I say."
Others aver that the name is derived from Pontius Pilate, the
governor of Judea, who, when he had committed the terrible sin
which makes his name a reproach, filled with remorse, fled from
Judea, and took refuge in the fastnesses of this melancholy
mountain ; there the wild crags and dark precipices were his
lonely resorts 5 upon these gloomy scenes his mind dNR^\^ ^^^
many years, until at last, unable to bear \is xecao^se, «xA ^^«^
yO LUCERNE.
with despair^ he committed suicide in a lake near the snnmiit of
the mountain. But his spirit continued to haunt the place, and
when travellers have gone up those dismal heights, they have
seen him come up from the waters, and slowly and solemnly
go through the ceremony of washing his hands. Then the
tempest howled, the lake heaved^ dark clouds and heavy mists
gathered round the mountain's head, and a storm or a hurricane •
always followed. And so, as the spirit showed such evident
dislike to being disturbed, severe penalties were inflicted by the
magistrates of Lucerne upon any one who might dare to visit
the haunted place.
For an interesting account of the mountain and its traditions,
see Sir W. Scott's *' Anne of Geierstein."
The original name of the mountain was Fracmont, from
monsfractus — broken mountain. Many other traditions appear
to have sprung up as occasion required ; such as its being the
abode of other evil spirits — the TUrst and the Bergmannlein 5
of dragons, of a colossal statue carved without hands in the black
rock of a cavern, and so on. Put these tales of horror and
wonder have died out, and the tourist of weakest nerves need not
fear an encounter with infernal spirits, as he wanders over the
green pastures or the rugged wastes of the mountain, and beholds
a glorious panorama, superior, say some, to that from the Rigi.
The path to the summit of the mountain leads from Hergiswyl
past Brunni, the Gschwdnd Alp^ the Frakmiind ChMets, and
other resting-places, to the Hotel Klimsenhom, whence the jour-
ney must be made on foot. From the hotel the path leads to the
Krisiloch, which is a hole cut upwards through the rock, where
a ladder is placed for the convenience of travellers. On eraeig-
ing from the funnel-shaped cutting, the whole of the Bernese
Alps lie disclosed to view. From here to the Hotel Bellevue is
the next stage, and hence to the Esel. The path then leads
down to Alpnach.
It may be mentioned that carriages may be taken to Her-
giswyl, at the east base of Pilatus 5 and the remainder of the
journey performed, except the last steep ascent, by mule.
THE RIGI.
Rigi-Kulm — Hotel du Rigi-Kulm, Hotel Schreiber.
Rigi-Staffel— Hotel Rigi-Staffel.
Whether the ascent of Pilatus be made or not, the traveller
should not omit to ascend the Rigi. It would be like going to
THE RlGI. 71
Rome and not seeing the Coliseum, or going to Naples and not
seeing Pompeii.
It is so easy to ascend, that the poorest mountain climber
need not fear his abilities ; or if he does, there are half-a-do^en
ways by which he may avoid the toil. It can be walked from
Weggis in three hours and a half. There is now a railway
from Vitznau (both Weggis and Vitznau are a short and
pleasant steamboat journey from Lucerne), or from Arth
(p- S5) ; or. if this is not desired, there are horses, or chaises
(sedan chairs).
The Rigi Railway (si miles in length) first demands
consideration, as it is one of the most novel features in moun-
tain climbing. It was completed in July, 1873. After pass-
ing through a tunnel 230 feet long, it crosses a bridge 262
feet in length. On one side are fine ^iews of the lake, on
the other is a precipice a thousand feet in height. The stations
are Freiberger, Kaltlad, Siqffelhohe, Romiti, Staffel, and Rigi^
Kiilm, The trains run in correspondence with the steamers
from Lucerne 5 and as a limited number only can be taken,
each passenger has a " numbered and reserved seat." The
carriages are two stories high, carrying eighty persons each trip.
The rate of travelling is slow, not exceeding three miles an hour,
and it is well it is so, as the gradient '* over about one-third of
the line is one in four, i.e., for every four feet of length, the line
rises one foot.** The tourist should notice the toothed wheel
working between the rails by which the train ascends, the
breaks by which each carriage can be held fast to the rack-rail,
and the various other appliances for insuring safety. The
engine " has little resemblance to an ordinary locomotive, the
boiler being upright ; and, with a view to give it a vertical
position when on the steep gradient, it slopes considerably when
standing at the station, which has a very odd appearance." No
one should miss inspecting the railway, and making a journey,
either ascending or descending by it. At Staffel there is a
junction with a still newer railway, which starts from Arth, and
passes through the village of Goldau, and then near the
convent of Maria zum Schnee, to join the line from Vitznau.
But it is a delightful walk if time permits, and the points of
interest to note on the way are worth seeing. Starting from
Weggis by a path which it is impossible to mistake, we pass a
spot where, in • 795, a thick bed of mud descended like a stream
of lava, and swept away everything before it 5 but as it took,
fourteen days to slide down, the inhabitants ^ec^ ^iJ^^ V^ ^v^^
72 LUCERNE.
themselves and much of their property. Then we reach a
curious little chapel, the Heiligkreuz (Chapel of the Holy Cross),
where the shepherds come to pray, and where travellers can
obtain refreshments. Soon after we pass through the Hochstein,
or Felsenthor, a natural archway of rocks fallen from the heights.
Then on to
Kaltbad, where there is a very beneficial mineral spring,
and a spacious hotel, etc. A festival is held here on Aug. lo.
From Kaltbad there is a railway to the Rigi Scheideck.
From Kaltbad to Staffel there are two paths. The less
direct leads by the Schwesterborn (Fountain of the Sisters),
so named from three maidens, said to have been protected by
angels from Austrian license, " in the time of Tell." Thence
proceed to the plateau known as the Kanzli, and observe the
charming view of Lucerne, etc., and then on to StafFel.
At StafFel all the different routes meet ; and then the summit
is soon reached. All along the way the views are interesting and
beautiful. The ascent to this point can also be made from
Kiissnacht, past Tell's chapel (commemorating the death of
Gessler), and the Seeboden Alp and Chalet.
On account of the great number of visitors to the Rigi
Kulm, it is necessary for those wishing for accommodation
for the night, to send a telegram to the proprietor, notifying
their wish, or it may not infrequently happen that it will be
impossible for them to remain at the Kulm.
If it is determined not to stay the night at the Rigi, there
is ample time to get down the mountain in the twilight.
The Rigi Kulm is 5,905 feet high. It is the highest and
most northerly point of the range, and is grass-grown to the
top. The name is said by some to be derived from Regina
Montium, the Queen of Mountains j and by others from Mons
Rigidus, the firm or compact mountain, in opposition to Mons
Fractus (Pilatus), the broken mountain. The view from the
summit is absolutely indescribable. We will just enumerate
the chief features.
Standing on the Belvedere at the hotel, we see on the left
the Rossberg close at hand, sloping down towards the Lowerz
See. Traces of the terrible fall in 1806 are plainly visible.
Beyond this, in the background, is the Sentis, in the Canton of
Appenzell. Almost due east rise the white summits of the
Glarnischer Alps. Then, following the sky line, the Todi group
are conspicuous. Just facing us are the Windgelle and the
Bristenstock. The Blackenstock and Urizothstock are nearly
THE RIGI. 73
due south ; and then the precipitous, rugged Titlis comes into
view. The mountains of the Bernese Oberland stand next in
order, presenting a magnificent appearance, with their mantles
of eternal snow. The conspicuous summits of this group are
the Finsteraarhorn, the Shreckhorn, the Wetterhom, the Monch,
the Eiger, and the Jungfrau. The chain ends with the crags of
Pilatus on the extreme right. We have mentioned the promi-
nent objects bounding the scene. In this area are included a
vast number of nearer and lower summits — as the Englestock,
the Fluhbrig, the double-headed My then, with the town of
Schwyz at its base. Then the mountains encircling the Muotta
Thai, the Hohfluh, Scheideck, and Dossen, in the imme-
diate foreground 5 the Axenberg, just beyond the Scheideck j
with the Buochserhom, Stanzerhorn, and Burgenstock, more
to the right. Ten lakes can also be counted from the Lowerz
See, under Rossberg, to the Bay of Alpnach, under Pilatus.
On the other side of the Rigi Kulm, the vie at comprises the
whole of Lake Zag, the town of Lucerne, and most of the
canton, with the rivers Emme and Reuss, the bay of Kiissnacht,
part of Lake Egeri (on the banks of which Morgarten was
fought), part of the town of Zurich, Lake Sempach, the Jura
mountains, and the Black Forest.
The Rigi is more than a thousand feet higher than Ben
Nevis, but the ascent has become almost a matter of course with
Swiss tourists. Many others deem the whole affair so hackneyed
as to be beneath their notice. In fine weather the roads up and
down are alive with visitors, and the various hotels thronged.
The evening view is very fine, and by some preferred to that in
the morning. It is, however, the sunrise that constitutes the
great attraction of the Rigi. Half an hour before that time a
horn is blown to arouse the visitors from their slumbers, and all
turn out, in every variety of greatcoats, rugs, and wrappers, to
witness the scene. Note that there is a penalty for using the
hotel blankets. Soon the stars begin to fade 5 a streak of dawn
gradually brightens to a golden line on the horizon's verge, the
mountain peaks blush rosy red, the shadows melt away, and
the varied charms of the landscape gradually reveal themselves,
till the sun bursts forth in all his glory, and the full splendour
of the vast panorama is displayed.
In certain atmospheric conditions, a phenomenon called the
Spectre of the Rigi is witnessed, which is also observable on
other lofty mountains. The figures of persons stand mg on the
Rigi are occasionally reflected, and surrounded by a ^^vsccisftx^
74 LUCERNE TO BRIEG.
balo, on a bank of mist rising from the valley below, without
enveloping the mountain itself.
Besides the two hotels at the Rigi Kulm (summit), there
are other hotels and numerous pensions on the lower slopes of
the mountains, where, amidst delightful scenery, and amongst
pleasant society, travellers from all parts of the world sojourn
for longer or shorter periods j some to recruit exhausted nature
with the now fashionable Swiss air- cure.
The neighbouring height of the Rigi Scheideck (jooo feet) is
reached by railway from Kaltbad, or by a two hours* walk from
Gersau.
LUCERNE TO BRIEG OR 8IERRE (FOR
GENEVA) BY THE FURCA PASS.
Lucerne to Fliielen by steamer (p. 64)
Fliielen to Hospenthal (St. Gothard route, p. 172).
There is a daily communication by diligence between
Andermatt or Hospenthal and Brieg, along the new Furca
road. The entire journey occupies about 12 hours j a stoppage
for dinner being made at the Rhone Glacier Hotel.
Leaving the St. Gothard route at Hospenthal, we proceed
by a level road along the Urseren Thai — a valley of rich pasture
land, through which flows the Reuss — and arrive at Realp.
This is a poor little village, celebrated for its pancakes, where
Father Hugo, a Capuchin monk, entertains travellers.
From Realp, an ascent of about 9 miles, through somewhat
monotonous scenery, treeless and barren, brings us to the sum-
mit of the Furca.
The Furca, or Fork, so named from its two peaks, be-
tween which the Pass lies, is 81 jo feet above the sea, and the
road descends on each side so abruptly, that no one can fail to
be conscious of being on the summit of the Pass. It is a rare
thing to find the Furca entirely free from snow.
There is a very good inn here, at which Queen Victoria
stayed three days in August, 1868. The views are very fine j
giant peaks are visible in abundance. The Furca-hom may be
reached in an hour, and is worth visiting for the fine panorama^
The higher Furcahom (9,934 feet) will take 2^ hours, and a
guide is advisable. The .Galenstock (11,900 feet) is recom-
mended to those accustomed to mountaih expeditions. From
the Furca (with a guide) a path may be taken across the Rhone
Glacier to the Grimsd in about 4 hours.
THE FURCA PASS. y^
The descent from the Furca is by a series of zigzags, very
abrupt, and giving the unnecessarily nervous traveller the im-
pression that he is going to the bottom with a bound. There
are seven zigzags, which are marvels of engineering skill. This
road, costing 5^20,000, only dates from 1867. The views
obtained in the descent more than compensate for the poverty
of those in the ascent. Nowhere can finer views be had of
those grim giants of the Oberland, the Schreckhorn, and the
Finsteraarhom, or of the glorious Alpine chain from Monte
Leone to the Weisshorn. Beside all this, the marvels of
the
Rhone Glacier are seen 5 one of the finest sights in
Switzerland. Every minute during the descent some fresh im-
pression of the magnitude of its frozen billows and its yawning
crevasses is obtained.
At the foot of the glacier the traveller will be struck with its
wonderful appearance, which now assumes a fresh form. Above
it stand the Gelmerhorn and the Galenstock, and from between
them is the great sea of ice, "resembling a gigantic frozen
waterfall," extending for i j miles. This is the source of the
river Rhone, which flows onward to the sea at Marseilles, 500
miles away. It has been said to issue *'from the Gates of
Eternal Night, at the foot of the Pillar of the Sun ;" and really
any poetry is excusable in sight of a scene of such unparalleled
grandeur. The Hotel du Glacier du Rhone is a good place to
dine. The Ice Cavern should be inspected before the journey
is resumed.
The diligence takes about 5 hours to perform the journey
from the Rhone Glacier to Brieg (31 miles). Walking will
not be found worth while.
The road, after crossing the deep ravine along which the
Rhone rushes, winds down to Oberwald, the highest village
of the Upper Valais (4,316 feet), surrounded by far-reaching
pastures.
The next town is Obergestelen, burnt down in Septem-
ber, 1868. It is an important depot for the exportation of
cheese. In the graveyard will be seen the large grave of eighty-
four victims of an avalanche in 1720.
Ulrichen, Munstery Reckingen, Niederwald, are successively
passed, and numerous other places sighted in this populous dis-
trict. Upper Valais is German in speech and manners, and was
never conquered by the legions of Rome.
Soon after passing Niederwald, the to\i\j& t«^\^^ ^tesRfc\A&
J6 LUCERNE TO BRIEG.
to a lower level of the great Rhone valley, and arrives at
Viesch.
Viesch is a flourishing little place, splendidly situated undei
the Viescher Horner, whose highest peak (Grosse Wannehorn)
rises to the altitude of over 12,000 feet. From Viesch a glorious
excursion can be made to the Eggischom (9649 feet). The
ascent will require four and a half hours, the return about an
hour less. A horse can be ridden nearly to the summit. At
the height of 7153 feet is the Hotel Jungfrau. The student of
botany will be delighted with the flora of the vicinity. At the
hotel a guide should be hired, and then, proceeding to the ter-
mination of the bridle-path, an arduous climb over rocks and
stones brings the traveller to the wooden cross marking the
summit.
The view is superb. The most prominent object is the
great Aletsch Glacier, nearly twenty miles in length, and
varying in breadth from one to four miles. This glacier, the
largest of the great ice-streams of Switzerland, has its source at
the foot of the Jungfrau, Monch, etc. Its course is direct and
uniform for about a dozen miles, till the Eggischborn turns it
. aside, when it becomes steeper and narrower, and it is seen
'disappearing, a few miles to the south-west, into the gorge of
' the Massa. The Viescher Glacier, which, compared with the
broad, smooth expanse of the Aletsch, more nearly resembled &
torrent of ice, is also in front. Just below him, the visitor sees
the Marjelen See, a mountain lake, hemmed in on one side by
the ice-clifFs of the Aletsch. From these ice-cliffs huge por-
tions break off. The encircling panorama comprises a great
number of mountain peaks. The Olmenhom and Dreieck-
horn are seen to the north-west, encircled by the two prin-
cipal arms of the Aletsch Glacier ; whilst beyond these rise the
Aletschhom (left), and the Jungfrau (right). More to the
right are the Monch, Eiger, and companion peaks. Due north
rise the ViescherhOrner, and then the Finsteraarhorn, Rothhom,
Oberaarhorn, Wasenhom, and Galenstock, Mutthom, etc.,
bring us to the east. Due east is the Blinnenhom, and due
south Monte Leone. Between these two latter, amongst others,
we see the Ofenhorn, Mittelberg, Kelsenhorn, etc. Continuing
the circle from Monte Leone, the Weissmies, Fletschhorn,
Monte Rosa, Mischabelhomer, Matterhom, Weisshorn, Mont
Blanc, Sparenhom, Sattelhorn, complete the panorama.
Numerous mountain and glacier expeditions may be made
/iroin the E^gischorn. A grand but easy mountain and glacier
BR] EG* mm
walk leads to the splendidly situated Belle Alp hotel, built on
a cliff, around which curves the great Aletsch Glacier. The
views are magnificent.
Resuming the route from Viesch, we pass on to Lax, still
tracking the downward course of the Rhone along its romantic
and rugged ravine. By devious windings we reach, at the
Bridge of Grengiols, a lower level of the Rhone Valley. Morel
is next passed. Hard by notice the Hochfluhkirche, on a pro-
minent rock; also the junction of the Massa, bringing the
watery tribute of the Aletsch Glacier to swell the Rhone. No
other Alpine giacier stream equals the Massa in magnitude.
Passing orchard-encircled Naters, with its two ruined
Castles of Weingarten and Auf der Fliih, we next arrive at
Brieg.
BRIEG, OR BRIGUE,
(Hotel de la Poste.)
is a small town at the junction of the Rhone and Saltine, and
the temunus of the Simplon railway. Notice the Stockalper
Chateau, with its tin-capped turrets. The Hotel Belle Alp (see
above) can be reached by bridle-path in about five hours ; the
summit of the Sparrenhom in less than three more. At Blatten,
on the way to Belle Alp, a footpath leads to the source of the
Massa, amongst the ice-grottoes of the Aletsch Glacier.
Brieg to Domo d'Ossola, by the Simplon Pass (see p. 171).
The next station is Yisp, or Yispach, at the mouth of the
Visper Thai, once containing so many noble families, that the
lower of the two churches was appropriated solely to their use.
The nobles have disappeared, and the town is peopled by
poverty-stricken inhabitants, in continual danger of destruction
from floods, which are only kept ofif by constantly renewed
dykes. All the houses but seven were made uninhabitable by
an earthquake in 1855. In 1868 a flood occasioned great des*
traction.
Visp to Zermatt (see p. 160).
From Visp the road conducts us to Tourtemagne, from
whence a beautiful excursion can be made to the Tourtemagne
Valley, with its waterfall, glacier, etc. The next station of any
importance is Susten, on the left bank of the Rhone. Leuk is
on the opposite side of the river, at the confluence of the Rhone
aid Ddla.
78
LUCERNE TO BRIENZ.
To the Baths of Leuk and Gemmi Pass (see p. 97).
Between Susten and Sierre, Pfyn is passed, marking the
boundary between the French and German-speaking districts.
The route lies amongst pine-clad hills, once the resort of brigands,
and then reaches Sierre.
Sierre, p. 170.
FROM LUCERNE TO BRIENZ AND MEIRINGEN
(Over the Brijnig Pass).
Take the steamer to Alpnach (p. 64), from which place th^
diligence, or one of the (preferable) supplementary carriages,
will convey the tourist to Brienz. Places must be booked at
Lucerne, or on board the steamer. If the tourist cares to ride
only to Lungem, and then walk the remaining distance, it is
well worth the extra exertion.
The road from Alpnach leads along the bank of the river
Aa, through park-like scenery, with a background of glorious
mountains, to the Lake of Sarnen.
SARNEN
(Briinig Hotel and Hotel de TOberwald)
is the chief town of Obwalden, in the Canton of Unterwalden,
and is the seat of government. 4000 inhabitants. There is a
monastery, a nunnery, and a conspicuous church on a hill.
The green hill called the Landenberg, with the Arsenal
upon it, was once crowned by the castle of the cruel
bailiff, Beringar, who put out the eyes of the aged father of
Arnold von Melchthal, for resisting his tyranny. The castle
was destroyed by the Swiss a few weeks after the Vow at
Griitli. Since 1646, the terrace where the castle once stood has
been the place of assembly, whereon the citizens of the canton
have met for consultation, the choice of magistrates, etc. ' In
the Rathhaus are portraits of the Obwalden magistrates for
nearly five centuries, and also a painting representing the cele-
brated St. Nikolaus von der Fliie. The visitor to Sarnen will
scarcely fail to notice the peculiar head-dress of the Unter-
walden peasant women — the plaited hair, interlaced with white
ribbon, and fastened up with a spoon- shaped buckle of silver.
East of Sarnen lies the romantic mountain-girdled valley of the
Melchthal, fifteen miles long. Here dwelt Arnold von Melch-
thal and his aged father (see above) 3 and here also lived the
venerated St. Nikolaus von der Fliie, who, with timely words of
peace, jwevented the break-up of the Swiss Confederacy in 148 1.
THE BRUNIG PASS. yn
At the Lake of Sarnen pedestrians will save a good step
by taking a boat for a couple of francs to the other end, four
and a half miles.
On the east of the lake stands Sachseln. In the church
are the bones of St. Nikolaus (locally known as Bruder Klaus),
with a jewelled cross under the ribs where the heart throbbed
in life. Numerous relics and votive tablets are to be seen.
The next village is Giswyl, which in 1629 was partially
destroyed by an inundation of the Lanibach. The ascent of
the Kaiserstuhl now begins, and at Biirglen, at an altitude of 2283
feet, the Lake of Luilgem is reached. This was once one of
the loveliest spots in Switzerland ; but the draining of half its
waters into the Sarner See by a subterranean canal, in 1836, has
much detracted from its beauty. Still, the surrounding scenery
is very fine, and we must solace our regrets for the lake's de-
parted charms by remembering that five hundred acres of
good land have been redeemed and brought under cultivation.
Passing along the steep cliffs east of the lake, we see the
three peaks of the Wetterhorn to the south. The lake is two
miles in length 5 and near its south end, as it were in a basin of
the mountains, stands the wood-built village of Lungern, at the
foot of the Briinig.
From Lungern (Hotels Lion d'Or, Briinig, and Ober-
wald), a well -constructed and costly zigzag road winds through
the woods up to the summit of the Briinig Pass. The oc-
casional views looking back through the trees are very fine.
At the culminating point (3648 feet) the northern view shows
the Valley of Sarnen and Lake of Lungern., and Pilatus in the
background j a few steps in the opposite direction reveal the
Eiger and Wetterhorn, and other snowy summits of the Bernese
Alps, with the gorge of Grimsel on the left, and the Brienzer
See on the right.
The descent of the Briinig is romantically interesting, afford-
ing fine and varied views of the surrounding Alpine scenery.
Soon after passing the splendidly situated hotel, the road divides,
that on the right leading past the Brienzwyler Bridge to
the beautifully situated village of Brienz (p. 90), where
admirers of wood-carving may see that pursuit most industri-
ously and artistically carried on. The left hand road leads to
Meiringen, under the wooded ridge surmounted by craggy
peaks tiiat bounds this portion of the Aare valley.
Meiringen (p. 80).
8o MEIRINGEN.
MEIfJNGEN TO INTERLAKEN.
(By the Scheideck, Grindelwald, Wengem Alps, and Lauter-
bninnen.)
The charming district now under notice is one of those
portions of Switzerland in which the tourist who can rely on
his own powers of locomotion may see the most and realize the
greatest enjoyment. He may, however, if so inclined, hire a
horse with advantage in some parts of the excursion.
Of course, the time occupied in this detour must entirely
depend on the traveller's convenience. He may spend a week
or more, and find many points of interest to visit beyond those
alluded to in the following brief epitome. But at least two days
should be devoted to the trip.
From Meiringen to Rosenlaui is a 3 hours' walk; from
Rosenlaui to Scheideck, 2 § hours 5 from the Scheideck down
to Grindelwald, 2 hours. Allowing 2 hours for stoppages at
various points of interest, this will make a good day's work for
most. On the following day, from Grindelwald to the Little
Scheideck will take 3 J hours 3 thence to the Wengern Alp,
half an hour ; and to Lauterbrunnen, 2 hours more. Here a
horse or a carriage can be hired to Interlaken : or, if the pedes-
trian be still fresh, he may walk on the remaining yi miles. In
taking this beaten track no aid from guides is requisite.
The peasantry of this lovely district have become keenly
alive to the desirability of preying on the traveller. No native
of the Isle of Thanet itself could be more ready in inventing
schemes for drawing coins from the traveller's pocket. At
every echoing cliff, waterfall, or glacier, somebody is at hand to
distract his attention with obtrusive services. Singing-girls,
horn- blowers, and itinerant vendors of all sorts of trifles dog
his footsteps everywhere. Let patience be cultivated, and a
supply of centimes kept in the pocket, for chary distribution in
unavoic'able circumstances, remembering that the Government
advice is to pay nothing, except for pre-engaged services. At any
rate, care should be taken to avoid the lavish bestowal of largesse
affected by some rich tourists, which has chiefly contributed to
develop the system complained of, and sap the sturdy inde-
pendence and native nobility of the Swiss peasant.
Meiringen (Hotel Sauvage) is a charming Alpine village
of 2800 inhabitants, with fine views of snow-clad mountains
2>dted with luxuriant woods, where they bound the long valh y
ROSENLAUI GLACIER. g X
that runs eastward from the Lake of Brienz. Along the valley
flows the river Aare ; and at the village of Meiringen various
important Alpine routes converge — ^viz., to Brienz (p. 79) j
to Grindelwald over the Scheideck ; to Lucerne, by the Briinig
(p. 78) ; to the Grimsel, past the Fall of the Handeck (p. 88)5
to Engelberg by the Joch Pass 5 and to Wasen by the Susten Pass
(P- 91)' . , . . . .
If the interest of the visitor is chiefly centred in art, archi-
tecture, or exhibitions, he will find little to please him in
Meiringen. He may, if he has an hour or two to spare, look
into the shops and buy some wood carvings, or sit on the l^al-
cony of the hotel and listen to the tinkle of distant cattle-
bells, or the strange, weird cry of the peasants calling the cattle
home, or stroll to one of the three brooks that leap down into
the valley at the back of the village. The Falls of the* Alpbach
are best seen in the morning.
The inhabitants of Hasli-Thal — of which Meiringen is the
capital — are an active, wiry race, descended from old Swedish
conquerors of the soil. Their prowess at the wrestling-matches
with the men of surrounding districts at the beginning of
August is well established. The women are considered better-
looking than is the case with their compatriots generally j and
their personal appearance is well set off by the graceful local
costume worn on holiday occasions. There is an English church
in the village.
The Falls of the Reichenbach are only a short walk
from Meiringen. The stream comes rushing and tumbling
down 2000 feet to the valley below, leap after leap, the three
lowest forming the jcelebrated Falls. Hoardings or huts have
been erected, at which fees are demanded at the best points of
view. The Lower Fall, behind the Reichenbach Hotel, is
illuminated every evening in the season for the benefit of per*
sons staying at that establishment.
From the Falls to Rosenlaui the path gradually rises along
the side of the Reichenbach Valley, beloved of artists. During
the journey the eye is charmed with ever-varying combinations
of rock and grassy slope, woodland and waterfall, with the
snowy peaks of the Wellborn and Wetterhorn piercing the blue
sky in front. The latter mountain, as seen from this valley, has
been compared to a colossal snow model of the Great Pyramid
of Egypt.
At the foot of the Wellborn, and between it and the En^V-
Umxex, is the Rosenlaui Glacier. Tba ^2Ak\.o VJoe \sio\. ^^
82 MEIRINGEN TO INTERLAKEN.
the glacier crosses a little bridge over the Weisbach. This is
the stream flowing from the glacier to join with others in form-
ing the Reichenbach. It rushes along a deep chasm in the
slaty rocks, 200 feet below the bridge. The glacier is small
and gradually decreasing, but it is exquisitely beautiful in colour,
hemmed in by rocks not friable enough to furnish the usual
dirty moraines, and is very easy of access. Any who shrink
from more formidable glacier expeditions should at least see the
Rosenlaui. The best point of view is from a rock that projects
out into the glacier, about 30 minutes' walk from its foot.
The Baths of Rosenlaui, in great repute with invalids
for the mineral waters, are charmingly situated amongst wood
and mountain scenery. An upward walk of 2j hours, partly
through a dense pine wood, conducts to the highest point (6480
feet), where the narrow ridge of rock, about 3 miles in length,
known as the Great Sheideck, is crossed. The view from
this point comprises the lofty and barren crags of the Wetter-
horn, the smiling valley of Grindelwald, bounded by the well-
wooded Little Scheideck 5 the Schwarzwald Glacier, and several
of the Bernese Oberland peaks. Here is an inn at which a
horse can be hired to make the ascent of the Faulhom in 4 or j
hours (p. 83). If not inclined to do the Faulhorn, the visitor
should walk as far on the road to it as the Grindelalp (where
fine views of mountains and glaciers will reward the extra
exertion), and then descend to Grindelwald by a path as short
as the direct course from the Great Scheideck.
Grindelwald (Hotel de TAigle Noir) is a romantic
village, inhabited chiefly by those whose vocation it is to tend
the thousands of cattle in the adjacent pastures. It is situated
in a valley some 12 miles by 4, at a height of 4000 feet above
the sea level, and guarded by giant mountains, the Eiger
(13,045 ft.), the Mettenberg (10,443 ft.), forming the base of
the Schreckhom, and the Wetterhom (12,165 ^^O- ^^ *s chiefly
celebrated for its two glaciers, whose " stiffened billows " are
far grander and wilder than the Rosenlaui.
These two glaciers descend one on each side the Metten-
berg, and supply by their melting the muddy waters of the
Black Lutschine. They are the lowest projecting portions of
the vast icefield of the Bernese Alps. The Lower Glacier
affords a capital opportunity of witnessing glacier sceneiy at a
comparatively small expenditure of time and labour. It ap-
proaches the valley by a gorge between the Schlossberg (base of
JSigei) and the Mettenberg. The ravine^ it is said, was once
GRINDELWALD. g^
extremely narrow, and was the only outlet for an immense
mountain lake. This narrow opening was often blocked up,
and devastating floods were the frequent result. To remedy
this state of things, St. Martin came to the rescue. He pressed
his back against the Mettenberg, and pushed the Eiger with his
staff, and lo ! at one effort the ravine reached its present width.
The impression made by the giant's back (Martinsdruck),
and the hole in the Eiger made by his staff (Martinsloch),
are pointed out to this day. Through the Martinsloch the sun
shines only on February 13th, casting a bright spot of light on
the shadow of the mountain below.
In a walk of about three-quarters of an hour from Grindel-
wald the foot of the glacier can be reached, but little can be
seen at this point beyond the moraines or accumulated heaps of
rock and other detritus brought down by the glacial action. It
is desirable to walk two hours further to the Baregg chalet.
(5412 ft.)» where are facilities for getting on to the glacier, and
examining the beautiful forest of spires, called '* ice needles,"
formed by the melting of the ice. If inclined for further ex-
ploration, the visitor may (with a guide) cross the Eismeer
(sea of ice), from which the glacier descends, to Zasenberg
(6076 ft.), where the highest habitation of the Bernese Alps
is found. It is a simple stone chalet amidst pastures for
goats. The views from the Eismeer are indescribable. Ice
and snow of vast extent and in stupendous masses, and a grand
amphitheatre of mountain peaks, compose the scene. From
the chalet to Grindelwald the descent may be accomplished in
3 hours.
The Upper Glacier, which is much smaller than the
other, can be sufficiently seen in coming from the Scheideck to
Grindelwald. The ice, especially as seen from the artificial
cave cut in it, is much purer than that of the Lower Glacier,
and the crevasses are more beautiful.
The adventurous traveller with plenty of time at his disposal
will find Grindelwald a suitable head-quarters from which to
indulge in mountain climbing. Many of the mountains named
in the last few pages can be ascended, with proper precautions
and good guides. And there are also some less lofty heights,
which will amply repay the tourist for the slight detention
necessary for their ascent 3 such, for instance, as the Faulhom,
which is easily accessible to those who have neither nerve nor
opportunity for grander exploits.
Th^ Faullxorn (8803 feet) can be ascenAe^ltoxcL^fvcA^*
$A MEIRINGEN TO INTERLAKEN.
wald in five hours, the return occupying considerably less time.
Horses can be made use of for the entire route, or chairs and
porters can be engaged at Grindelwald for those preferring that
mode of conveyance. There is an inn on the summit, but
previous notice should be sent if accommodation for the night
is desired. The path leads up, by woods and meadows
and chalets, to the hotel on the Ross Alp 3 then passing the
waterfall of Muhlibach, and the chalets of the Bachalp, where
cheeses weighing over 150 lbs. are manufactured, we reach the
rock -en circled lake known as the Bachalpsee, around which
frown the Rothihorn (9060 feet), Simelihorn (9040 feet), and
the Ritzligratli (8281 feet). Presently the path to or from the
Great Scheideck is joined, and then the way winds on amongst
the debris continually descending from the crumbling Rothihorn,
till the cone of the Faulhorn is reached.
The view from the top is very fine. On one side we see
the whole or parts of the Lakes of Brienz, Thun, Lucerne,
Zug, Morat, and Neuchatel, with their adjacent mountains.
Turning southward, we see in the foreground the Wildgerst and
Schwarzhorn, with the glacier between, the Rothihorn, the
Simelihorn, and the Bussalp 3 whilst on or near the sky-line we
behold the lofty peaks of the Bernese Alps, the most prominent
(from east to west) being the Sustenhorn, Wellhorn, Wetter-
hom (i 1,^12 feet), Berglistock, Schreckhorn (12,570 feet),
Finsteraarhorn (13,230 feet), Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau, Breit-
hom, Blumlisalp, etc.
On returning from the summit, the traveller may from the
Bachalp ascend the isolated Rothihorn (9052 feet), and get
a better view than from the Faulhorn as far as the Grindelwald
mountains are concerned.
From Grindelwald to Interlaken the easiest route is
by the carriage road, along the valley of the Black Liitschine to
Zweilutschinen, and so to Interlacken (12 miles). But good
pedestrians will much prefer the route about to be described.
It may be accomplished on horseback, if the rider be willing to
dismount at one or two steep, rugged places.
Leaving Grindelwald, the traveller gradually ascends, cross-
ing the rounded spurs at the base of the Eiger, and passing
numerous cottages and chalets. Some fine views of the Grin-
delwald Valley are obtained by occasionally casting a backward
£^Iance in that direction. At a height of over 5000 feet above
the sea-level, a whey- cure establisbment \s ^ass^. At length
yegetatioa becomes coarse and scanty, and tes^eoX. ^icxA& ^i
WENGERN ALP. 85
the prevalence of avalanches and landslips are witnessed. In
about three and a half hours the pass of the
Little Scheideck (6768 feet) is reached. Here there is
an inn, the Hotel Belle Vue. The view is superb at any time 5
and towards sunset, when the Monch, the Jungfrau, the Eiger,
and the Schreckhom are tinted with a thousand hues, nothing
can exceed the glories of the scene. The Oberland peaks are
well seen to the south j northward lies the Grindelwald Voiley,
with its mountain boundaries.
From the Little Scheideck the traveller may, if so inclined,
return to Grindelwald by the Lauberhorn (8120 feet), and
Mannlichen (7694 feet), both peaks of the ridge running north-
ward from the Scheideck j or he may proceed to the Hotel
Jungfrau, on the Wengem Alp, by the Lauberhorn, in about
two hours. But the direct path descends in about thirty
minutes to the sloping pasture known as the Wengern Alp.
Far below lies the valley of Lauterbrunnen, with the Staubbach
like a thread of silver winding from the upper to the lower fall.
The Hotel de la Jungfrau is, towards noon, a resting-place for
visitors from various directions, when quite an international
gathering takes place during the season. Opposite the hotel are
the Silberhorn (12,156 feet) on the right, and the Schneehorn
(11,204 feet) on the left j and between them, upspringing from
a world of glaciers, rises the colossal Jungfrau (13,671 feet),
in robes of dazzling whiteness, but not revealing her loftiest
peak from this point of view. The ascent of this mountain is
not considered immensely difficult, but is very fatiguing, and
requires good guides. Ladies have on several occasions visited
the summit.
From the Wengem Alp the traveller will not only hear the
avalanches, but also see them, as they break away from the
glaciers on the brow of Jungfrau, dash into fragments, and
plunge into the ravine called theTriimlethenthal. The sight at
this distance is insignificant, but the sound is marvellous as echo
after echo takes up the thunders with manifold reverberation.
If the traveller wishes for a nearer view of these wonderful
phenomena, he must go with a guide and a rope (only needed
at one or two points of the journey) down into the Triimlethen-
thal, cross the branch of the Liitschine at the bottom, anb
ascend to the side of a deep channel. Here, in cQ\xv^\siy^
security, he may watch the avalancYies \3cv2X \v^n^ A\^^^ ^^'^^
cended 2000 feet from the gUciets, da^ ^o^}^cv ^^t "asvoKfegJt
thousand feet along this channel, to teaiciVi VJaa ^.c.oxss^v:^'^^^^^^ ^
86 MEIRINGEN TO INTERLAKEN.
snow and ice below. The expedition will occupy about three
hours going and returning, exclusive of the time spent in watch-
ing the avalanches. Particulars as to how best to accomplish
the journey should be ascertained at the hotel.
A descending walk of about three hours* length brings the
traveller from the Wengern Alp to Lauterbrunnen. The
course lies at first over grassy slopes, thickly populated by small
cattle with their tinkling bells. The immediate descent into
Lauterbrunnen valley is by a steep zigzag path down the cliffs.
The views en route are very beautiful and varied.
LAUTERBRUNNEN
(Hotel du Capricorne)
is a village of chalets, where 1400 inhabitants are so secluded
amidst rocks and mountains, that although dwelling nearly 2500
feet above the sea level, the sun cannot visit them till seven a.m.
in summer, nor till noon in winter. Lauterbrunnen signifies
" nothing but springs 5" some twenty or thirty streamlets come
down from the surrounding cliffs and mountains.
Of these the finest is the world-renowned Staubbach. It
is quite possible that the visitor may consider this fall has been
over-praised. Its beauty depends, however, very much on the
amount of water falling. It is often very small 5 and as it leaps
down over 900 feet — thus taking rank as the highest European
waterfall — the water is dissipated into spray before reaching the
bottom. Hence the name Staubbach — '* Dust- stream.'* It has
been compared to an undulating lace veil, to a bird of Paradise,
to the descent of a shower of rockets, etc., etc. Byron com-
pares it to the tail of
'< The giant steed to be bestrode by Death,
As told ia the Apoca'ypse 5*'
Wordsworth calls it a *' sky-bom waterfall 3" Goethe and several
other poets have also sung its praises.
Theie are no lack of walks and excursions for the tourist
who can aflxjrd time to linger at Lauterbrunnen. It is a pleasant
evening walk to the Falls of the Trumlenbach, where
the glacier-fed torrent from the foot of the Jungfrau leaps down.
To view the grand, wild scenery round Miirren, half a day
must be allowed. The road lies throngja. lYva iot^^t above the
Staubbach Falls, and the moantam panotama seen ou «£otet^vxi^
MEIRINGEN TO THE RHONE GLACIER. ^j
from the forest is beyond description. Miirren itself is glori-
ously situated, and the view of glaciers, and rocks, and ravines,
untrodden save by the daring chamois hunter, is magnificent.
From Miirren the Schilthorn (9000 feet) is ascended. The
view of mountain-tops from its summit is unrivalled, including
the Juras, the Niesen, the peaks of the Bernese Oberland, the
Titlis, the Rigi, and many others.
The exploration of the Upper Valley of Laaterbrunnen
is well worth the trouble. To Stechelberg and Trachsell-
auinen requires no guide, and can be managed with horses.
Beyond that to the Falls of the Schmadribach the path is
obscure. The falls are 200 feet in height, aud the arch of vapour
formed by them is very remarkable.
From Lauterbrunnen to Interlaken is seven and a
half miles. The road leads along the valley, whose rocky walls
rise to the height of 1000 feet, and past the lowering rock
called the Kunnenfluh to Zweilutsckinen. This town is situated
near the junction of the Black Lutschine from Grindelwald
with the White Lutschine from Lauterbrunnen. A little
further on, the road enters a narrow ravine, with the precipices
of the Rothenfluh rising on the left. The Bosenstein, with its
inscription marking the spot where a fratricide was committed
by a local baron, was removed in blasting the rocks to improve
the road 3 but the gloomy spot is still pointed out. Passing on
by g6itre-haunted Muhlinen, IVilderswyl, and Matten, we soon
arrive at Interlaken. Between Wilderswyl and Matten we pass
the ruins of the Castle of Unspunnen, said to have been
in Byron's thoughts as the stronghold of Manfred — the won-
drous tale, of which the scenery is mostly laid in the Wengern
Alp and neighbourhood.
Interlaken, p. 92.
MEIRINGEN TO THE RHONE GLACIER, BY
THE GRIM8EL.
(For the St. Gothard Route, or for the Rhone Valley.)
This cross route takes about eleven hours. From Meiringen
to the Handeck Falls, and to return by the same route, takes
about as long. A carriage road has been formed a little beyond
Imhof, after which there is a bridle path only.
•Leaving Meiringen, the Aare is sooiicros%e^(s?^Y^Qk^^^^^^«^^^
is repeated many times during the xoute) , «lTv^ ^^^a %\ixwxi^. A
ihendge of limestone, strewn with gtamle \AocVs, >B.xia^^^^
gg MEIRINGEN TO THE RHONE GLACIER.
the Kirchet, or Kirchen, is reached. This ridge, 2782 feet in
height, forms the division between the Upper and Lower Hasli-
thal. From the summit there is a lovely view down into the
verdant valley of Imgrund.
By paying a small fee at the Inn, a short detour can be made
through a woodland path to the Finsteraar Schlucllt.
This is a romantic ravine, cut clean through the Kirchet ridge
by the Aare, which foams along three hundred feet below.
As the road winds down the side of the Kirchet, the pedes-
trian will easily see how to make several short cuts. The first
village of any importance in the valley is Imhof, near to which
diverge the routes leading to the Susten and Joch passes re-
spectively. From Imhof a fine excursion may be made to the
magnificent Urbachtlial, with the immense Gauli Glacier at
the head of it. The experienced miountaineer may visit many
glaciers, etc., from this locality.
Passing on from Imhof, the road leads through a romantic
defile, over which towers the Mahrenhom (9593 feet). Re-
freshments can be obtained at various chalets. After crossing
the Aare a time or two, and also various mountain torrents,
Guttanen is reached. This wretched-looking place, the
highest village of the Haslithal, has been four times destroyed
in the present century— twice by fire, and twice by flood.
From Guttanen the visitor passes through fine rock and
forest scenery, crossing the Aare at the Tschingelbriicke. Here
and there the ravages of avalanche and wintry torrent are evident.
On the right, the foot of the Weiss Glacier is seen, and mountain-
tops patched with snow come into view. After crossing the
Aare by the Schwarzbrunnenbriicke, and passing a small cascade,
the end of the valley is reached, formed by a rocky height, sur-
mounted by a grove of pines. Up this ridge the path leads
amongst rocks where former glacial action is plainly visible.
At Handeck are the celebrated Falls, where the Aare
leaps down 250 feet at a bound. The falls should be viewed
from below, and again from the bridge above. Half way down,
the river Erlenbach., entering at right angles, joins its. falling
waters with those of the Aare, and the mingling cascades de-
scend into a basin, over which rainbows are seen in the spray
between ten and one. This is the third largest, 'and by many
considered the finest, waterfall in Switzerland.
Up to this point rich forest scenery has softened the boldaess
of the landscape, hut now a wild and barren region of desolation
's gradually catered. The pine dlsappeaxs-, W-^es., xcio^%^ acid
THE GRIMSEL.
89
pprass form the vegetation, and that not in abundance. Hahle
Platte is crossed, being the polished granite bed of an ancient
glacier. Agassiz studied glacial action here as elsewhere, and
has left his name carved on the rock. Opposite, the picturesque
waterfall of the (Jelmerbach descends from the Gelmer See.
Again the valley narrows, and the savage wildness of the
scene increases in intensity. The Aare is crossed again and
again ; and the Raterisboden, where is the only chMet be'
tween Handeck and Grimsel, is soon reached. This hollow
basin was given by the French to the innkeeper of Guttanen, who
aided them in their attack on the Austrians at the Grimsel in
1799. But the Swiss Government speedily revoked the grant.
Between the rocky walls of a mountain glen the traveller still
mounts, and, after a time, arrives at the Grimsel Hospice.
The Grimsel Hospice, formerly a monastic refuge, and
now an inn, was destroyed by an avalanche in 1838, and burnt
down in 1852. At the present building, of massive stone, 6148
feet above the sea-level, fifty beds are made up in the season,
and a couple of hundred persons are often entertained at the
seven p.m. table d'hdte. The hospice stands in the basin called
the Grimselgrund. Around are rocks and snow, and a black
lake destitute of fish. Beyond the lake is the scanty pasturage
of the cows of the establishment.
From this point an easy ascent of the Sidelhorn may be
made 5 the panorama of the Grimsel is very fine. From
the rocky height near the hospice, called the Nollen, the Fin-
Steraarhorn is visible. This mountain presents a capital
expedition for experienced mountaineers with able guides 5 and,
indeed, for travellers of this class, many fine ascents may be
arranged from the Grimsel. The Finsteraar and Lau-
teraar Glaciers can be visited with comparative ease. The
former is twenty-one miles in length, the latter eighteen. On
these glaciers Agassiz and others have performed a serfes of
experiments on glacial action. It has been proved that this
glacier moves at the rate of eight inches a day, or eighty- five
yards a year.
A steep path, which takes about an hour to traverse, leids
from the Hospice to the summit of the pass (7103 feet) called
Hauseck. Here, in 1799, French and Austrians closed in
deadly struggle, and the dead were interred in the adjacent lake^
henceforward known as the Todtensee. TYie\>M^, ^T«xv\\fc ^sox-
rounding of this lake are sombre enough, \>\xl \Jcvft Sv&\.«qX. 'h\««
cf the Weiashom and Mischabel is more \ave\7.
go BRIENZ TO BERNE.
From Hauscck the descent can be made by one path to
Obergestelen (p. 75), for the Rhone Valley.
The other path leads by the flowery Maienwand, with
splendid views of the Rhone Glacier, Furca, Galenstock, etc.,
down to the Rhone Glacier Hotel, where there is a table d'h6te
at one, after which a diligence runs to Brieg, in the Rhone
Valley (see p. 77).
Rhone Glacier to Hospenthal and St. Gothard route (see
P- 74).
BRIENZTO BERNE.
(At Brienz, Hotel de la Croix Blanche. At Giessbach, Hotel
Giessbach.)
There is not much in Brienz to detain the visitor. It is a
picturesque village of wooden houses, nestling at the foot of the
Brienzer Grat ; the inhabitants are chiefly occupied in wood-
carving, and carry on a considerable trade j and in the Repository
a good collection of articles may be seen, and, if so minded,
purchases can be made. From the Churchyard excellent
views may be obtained of the lake and surrounding mountains.
The Lake of Brienz is celebrated for the magnificence
of its mountain scenery. Except towards the south-west, it is
entirely surrounded by high mountains j the Faulhom, on the
south side of the lake, forms a splendid object in the panorama.
The lake is 8 miles long, and 2 broad in its widest part. Near
the mouth of the Giessbach the depth is 500 feet, but it varies
in other parts considerably. It is 10 feet higher than the Lake
of Thun, and 850 feet above the level of the sea j it abounds in
fish, and the " Brienz- ling,*' which is salted for the supply of
the neighbouring districts, is found in abundance, and is a good
fish.
Steamers ply upon the lake between Brienz and Inter-
laken ; and in the season there are special night boats for the
illumination of the Falls of the Giessbach (see p. 91).
The journey from Brienz to Interlaken occupies about an
hour J from Brienz to Giessbach, about 10 minutes.
Rowing-boats on the lake may be obtained at Brienz or
Interlaken. A bargain should always be made with the
rowers.
Leaving Brienz by steamer, the lake is crossed, and Giess-
bach is reached. It must be bottie Va imrvdvlhat from the lake
the Falls cannot be. seen, or the beauty ol xSaa «i^\\&t^ ^v^twssA^
GIESSB ACH FALLS. g ^
ing them. Continuing towards Interlaken, there are seen on
the right hand (north bank) the villages of Oberried andNeider-
ried, backed by the Augstmatthorn. Further on, the ruined
Castle of Ringgenberg ; and further still, the town of Golds wyl.
On the left hand (south bank), the charming little village of
Iseltwald. Approaching Interlaken the lake narrows j the
village of BOnigen is reached ; the Aare, as the water is called
whidi connects the Lake of Brienz with that of Thun is entered j
and the steamer sets down its passengers at Bonigen pier, where
a railway takes them in a few minutes to Interlaken (p. 92).
THE FALLS OF THE GIE88BACH.
(Hotel Giessbach. Telegraph for rooms.)
A railway (Drahtseilbahn) will be opened in 1879 from the
shore to the Hotel.
The Falls are brilliantly illuminated with Bengal lights every
evening, from the middle of June till the end of September —
before that time, on Mondays and Saturdays only. Fee^ i^ franc.
In the following account by an American of a visit to the
Falls the traveller will find all the information he will need : —
*' As the twilight began to gather we landed at Giessbach,
and wended our way up a steep declivity to the very fine hotel.
After engaging rooms for the night, and partaking of a good
supper, we were prepared to see Giessbach Falls illuminated.
The hotel is situated on a high bluff of land, which juts out into
the lake, and from this er unence you have a fine view of the
lakes and mountains, looking towards Interlaken — which place
Is seen quite distinctly — ^with a portion of Lake Thun.
" The great attractions, however, at Giessbach, are the cas-
cades, which extend 1300 feet from the mountain top into the
lake below. These waterfalls are supplied by two lakes in the
mountains, uamed Hagel and Hexen.
•* Issuing from the hotel into the well-lighted, gravelled
walks, fringed with flowers and shrubbery, we arrived at an
eminence directly opposite the Falls, where seats are provided
for the spectators. At a given signal the lights of the garden
are all put out, leaving us in almost total darkness, made doubly
dark by the shadow of the mountain facing us. Anon, a rocket
was sent into the air -, then, darker still and murky the inter-
val. Then another rocket whizzed close by \3ls \ ^^'ajvxv, ^^^^«
darkness aiid deeper mystery, by contcast". vy\\ew — ^t^sIo^
cbai^ ! I-^^ach fall, to the number oi twelve, \>eeatafc s^n^^^s.^
Q2 BRIENZ TO BERNE.
with intense light ! — silvered for a distance of 800 feet up the
mountain side.
" The mountain firs and other foliage, lit up with the sudden
glare, were wonderfully verdant j with an immediate gloss on
it that seemed fairy-like, and with a filmy sheen playing around
the outer edges. At the bottom of each fall the foam seemed
frosted into so much virgin silver, and bubbled away to sparkle
again below 5 while the water-spray, like silver dust receiving
light from the moon's rays, floated away into the deep, moun-
tain shadows. Up, up, up the gorge of the cascades we gaze
with much delight, viewing the sparkling little rustic bridges
which span with their quaint forms the glistening chasms, at given
spaces, to the top. Down came the water in frolicsome curves
and splashes, seemingly much pleased with its beautiful glow.
*' Lo, and behold again ! are we in Fairyland ? One of the
longest falls turns, or laints, into a liquid purple ; another, into
a lovely sea-green j and, at the base, the largest fall of all, has
dissolved into a stream of liquid ruby, molten and spreading,
tinting with a roseate hue the dark stones, and starting by the
sight the most prosaic into wonder and delight. Verily, one
would think that I had exerted an over-vivid imagination in
trying to describe this beautiful exhibition j but, the truth is,
our language cannot depict the gorgeous effect of an intense
effulgence of light over a large body of water — especially if that
water is dancing, foaming, and meandering over a mountain
side 800 feet high, garnished with a dense, varied foliage, hid
in the gloom, then breaking into blaze, gilding or silvering every
web-like twig, illumining every lichen-covered rock, piercing
with light every nestling nook of the deep shade, exposing the
tangled network of vine and tree-branch, and rousing beetle and
bird. We saw the same Falls on the next morning looking
innocent of the last night's varied glow — as lovely and limpid
in the natural light of a fine day as would satisfy the most
veracious poet or painter seeking for the truly picturesque. So
beautiful seemed the scene after the night's theatric debauch,
so tender seemed the daylight, that the tampering with Nature's
slumber appeared, after all, but profanation." — ^W. J.
INTERLAKEN,
/Hotel Victoria and Hotel Ritchard. These hotels command fine
v/eivs of the /ungfrau and other Alps of the Bernese Oberland.)
The lakes of Brienz and TYivm. axe >av3L\. «k. ^ott ^\^\aaf:»
INTERLAKEN. go
apart^ and, as its name implies, Interlaken lies between them.
It is thought that formerly the two lakes were joined together,
until separated by deposits brought down by streams flowing
into them.
Interlaken has been described as the Leamington, or Chel-
tenham, or Harrogate of Switzerland. It was once a truly
Swiss town J it is gradually becoming a little Paris or Brussels.
Fashion and gaiety find their homes here, and the pleasure-
seeker will vote the town to be one of the most charming in
Switzerland. Many of the houses are built in the most perfect
and accomplished Swiss style. Interlaken consists of a prin-
cipal one-sided street, beside which are the hotels, pensions, and
boarding-houses. With the exception of the hotels, nearly all
the houses are of wood, with overhanging eaves, galleries,
shingle-roofs, and ornamented with quaint carvings and inscrip-
tions. Some of these houses bear date 250 years ago, and yet
look as sound as ever, though they are never painted.
From the door of the hotel, in the quiet of the eventide,
may often be heard the peculiar sound produced by an avalanche
from one of the neighbouring mountains. For in the vicinity
of Interlaken there are ''giant mountains, massive glaciers,
rushing cataracts, picturesque villages, green oases, and the ever
changeful combinations of Alpine nature in her most lavish
mood.*'
At Interlaken there are many temptations to spend money
in articles of Swiss manufacture, from the most minute figure
in wood, or the horns of the chamois, to good-sized drawing-
room tables, and other large articles of household furniture.
The whey-cure is one of the institutions of Interlaken.
The principal avenue of communication in Interlaken is
the Hoheweg, one of the finest promenades in Switzerland,
with splendid views of the Jungfrau. Here stands the Gur-
saal, with its Reading Room, Restaurant, Billiard Room, and
its constantly recurring Balls, Concerts, and other amusements.
At a short distance is the Monastery, an ancient pile sur-
rounded by beautiful walnut trees. In the more modem part,
called the Schloss, dating from 17 jo, the Government offices
are located. The best view of the town is from the Hohbiihl
across the bridge.
Opinions differ as to the enjoyment of a lengthened stay in
Interlaken. While one traveller of a merry, social^ ia^ovss^-
loTing turn of mind will revel in its proIrleIl2Ae%,\i^^v«!t^-'^^^'^^^
and concert-balls, and such like, the diow^^iX-ixA, iSL^i^xXaJixs^ ^cbks^
g^ BRIENZ TO BERNE.
will turn aside^ glad to find a more secluded spot elsewhere. It
is uridoubtedly a capital place as a centre for excursions j and
the tourist may branch off here to visit the Wengern Alps,
Grindelwald, and other places of the Bernese Oberland, de-
scribed fully at p. 80.
Whether the whole of this detour be undertaken or not, no
one should miss the delightful drive from Interlaken to Lauter-
brunnen, and the Falls of the Staubbach. It is a charming
valley, and a description of it will be found on p. 86.
Excursions may also be accomplished in a day, or less, to
(i) Kleine Rugen, and Heimweh Fluh, returning by the Un-
spunnenj Hohbiihl, Vogtsruhe,Untere Bleicki, Goldei, Lustbuhl,
Zwerglocher, Eck, etc. (2) The Thurmberg and small lake
of Golzwyl. (3) To the Beatenhohle.
Longer excursions, (i) Schynige Platte, 6180 feet high,
with a fine view of the Snow Mountains. (2) To Lauter-
brunnen, Staubbach Falls, thence by mule up to Miirren, and
back to Interlaken; or over the Wengern Alp from Lauter-
brunnen to Grindelwald, and back to Interlaken. (3) To
Grindelwald, thence over the great Scheideck to the Baths of
Rosenlaui and Rosenlaui Glacier, thence to Interlaken by
Brienz and the Giessbach Falls.
LAKE OF THUN.
From Interlaken by railway to Darligen, and then by steam-
boat, on the Lake of Thun, to Thun (the former station of the
steamers of this lake was Neuhaus, a walk or omnibus drive of
two miles through a long grove of poplars).
On both sides of the lake is a constant succession of rustic
villages, and dotted here and there, on the hill sides, are chalets,
villas, and gardens, backed by the snowy giants of the Oberland.
On the southern shore are two isolated mountains named the
Niesen (7,700 feet), and the Stockhom (7,200 feet), *' striking,"
says Dr. Forbes, " from their sharp and peculiar outline j the
former rising up like a vast symmetrical broad-based pyramid,
the other shooting out diagonally into the western sky its huge
terminal horn.'* At a greater distance, the loftier Jungfrau,
Monch and Eiger tower on high.
The lake is ten miles and a half long, and two miles broad,
and IS nearly 1800 feet above the sea level. As we steam on,
we notice on the right a perpend\cw\ax cWfE, lotrakL^ the base of
tlie Beatenberg. Here is the cavem ol ^\.,'&^a\.\is^^\!ka^^^%
THUN, Q^
tradition, was the first to introduce Christianity into these parts 5
of course, no old-fashioned saint could have made his abode in
the side of such a cliiF, situate in such a place, with a cascade
issuing from it, without having some strange legends also
attached to it. It is reported that a dragon originally occupied
the cave, but was turned out much in the same way as St. Saba
ousted the lion. St. Beatus had also accomplished the art of
navigating the lake on his cloak, without any other external
assistance.
After passing the little perpendicular headland known as the
Nase, we soon afterwards see on the opposite (left) bank the
castle of the descendants of Erlach, the hero of Laupen.
In about an hour after starting, we reach the mouth of the
Aare, at which point we have a beautiful view of the Niesen and
BlUmlisalp chains of mountains, the latter in their garb of
never- melting snow.
THUN.
(Hotel Belle Vue and Grand Hotel deThoune).
If the tourist wishes to proceed direct to Berne without
stopping at Thun, he will alight at
Scfierzligen, the landing-place being close to the railway
station.
Thun has above 5,000 inhabitants 5 it is traversed by the
river Aare; and its principal street is its principal curiosity.
** There is a sort of terrace some ten or twelve feet high, on the
flat roof of which are the shops, while the carriage-way is
bounded by the cellars, of which the terrace is the roof.** The
sights of Thun are few, and therefore it is best to ascend to
tfie cliurcll by a covered way cf 218 steps, where a mag-
nificent view is obtained ; one of the most striking objects from
here is the Stockhorn. whose bell-shaped summit differs from
everything else within range of our view. The late Emperor
Napoleon III. was a resident in Thun for eight years, when a
Captain in the Swiss Artillery, the house he occupied is now
known as the Cafe Maulbeerbaum.
Near the church is seen the tower of the Castle of
Kyburg, where the old Counts of Thun once dwelt. The
square tower, with its high pointed roof, known as the Berne
Grate^ is a remnant of the ancient fortifications. T\\& ¥ ^^^"^^iX
Military College at Thun is the SaneiYiXtt^X. ol '^^^Xx.ieevsis^^
Kevj^ws In coDDection with this estaVA\sYvmetL\. ^x^'WAvo.'^^
gS THUN TO LEUK.
neighbourhood in the summer. Some curious old Gothic
windows distinguish the Beguinage, near the Town
House. The Jacobishiibeli, or Pavilion of St. John, is a short
distance from the town. The view excels that from the church-
yard in beauty and extent. The majestic Jungfrau forms a
prominent feature in the scene.
Charmingly situated at the junction of the river Aare with the
lake is the modem erection known as the Schloss Schadau,
with extensive and well-ordered gardens, to which, on Sunday
evenings, the public are admitted.
Thun is extremely picturesque, but is not regarded by all
travellers as the best halting-place on the journey. Those so
minded can speedily proceed by Central Swiss Railway to Berne,
the journey of about three quarters of an hour is short, but
delightful, with views that require incessant watchfulness from
both sides of the carriage.
Berne, p. 98.
THUN TO LEUK AND SU8TEN, BY THE
GEMMI PASS.
Carriage road to Kandersteg 22 J miles 5 thence over the pass
to the Baths of Leuk, a bridle-path ji hours. From thence to
Susten (8 miles), there is a good road.
To Kandersteg it is a charming drive through pasture lands
and orchards, crossing the Kander, and passing Moos, Miih-
lenen, Reichenbach, and Frutigen. At the latter place
the road ascends the Kander valley, and passes the azure waters
of the picturesque Blaue See, and the Felsenburg Tower,
near Mittelholz, to Kandersteg.
At Kandersteg the panorama of the Birrenhorn, Bliim-
lisalp, Doldenhorn, Gellihorn, and other mountains, is superb.
Soon after leaving Kandersteg, the road ascends at the
base of the Gellihorn, and in about three hours the Inn of
Scliwarenbach is reached.
Hence the path leads by the dirty waters of the Daubensee
to the summit of the pass (7553 feet) known as the Daube
or Gemmi, at the base of towering limestone rocks forming
the Daubenhorn (9449 feet). From an eminence close by the
pass, the view is very grand. The Baths of Leuk are seen far
below, and around is a iine mountain panorama, comprising
the MIscbabelhorneTj WeissTdom, Biuneckhom, Matterhom,
jDent Blanche^ etc.
BASLE TO BERNE. qm
Descending amidst grand scenery, by a skilfully constructed
path on the side of the almost perpendicular rock, 1800 feet in
height, the Baths of Leukare reached (Hotels des Alpes and
Belle Vue). There are twenty- two mineral springs here. The
bath house is a unique sight. Male and female patients sit up
to their necks in one conmion bath, attired in fanciful flannel
dresses. There are small floating tables, at which the patients
sip coffee or read the newspapers for hours together, amidst a
lively din of conversation in all languages. Visitors are allowed
to view this curious scene.
The road to Leuk and Susten crosses the D ala and passes
Inden. The route is very attractive, and presents fine views of
the Dala ravine and opposite mountains, and of the Rhone
Valley as far as Martigny.
At Leuk, where tjie culture of the vine conmiences, there
is a fine old castle on an eminence. Susten, on the other
side of the Rhone^ is on the high road from Sierre to Brieg
(see p. 77).
BASLE TO BERNE.
From Basle to Aarburg (p. 57).
At Aarburg the line to Lucerne diverges to the south-east.
Stations, JSiedertvyl, Morgenthal^ Roggwyl^Langenthal,But%herg,
At Herzogenbuchsee (which is a junction with the line to
Solothurn, Bienne, Neuch^tel) inquire whether carriages must
be changed. The train generally waits from ten to fifteen
minutes at this station. Then stations Riedwyl, fVynigeny
Burgdorf, or Berthoud, where Pestalozzi introduced his edu-
cational system in 1798. The town is pleasantly situated, and
carries on a good trade in cheese. It commands fine views of
the Bernese Oberland. A diligence runs from Burgdorf to Lang-
nau (p. 107). Stations, Lyssach, Hindelhank, Schonbiihl, Zolli*
kqfen, junction, with branch line to Bienne (p. 113). Between
Zollikofen and Berne is the most interesting part of the railway
journey, the chain of the Oberland being seen from end to end.
The approach to Berne by way of the Bridge across the Aare is
very striking.
BIENNE TO BERNE.
This journey is performed in about an hour and a quart<e.T« .
.• At Brugg CTOSs the Zihl, and at B\ISSrsNrs[\ cxosa ^^ K353»>
by a bridge 800 feet in length. TYie succee^vci^ ^XaJassos* ^^^
Z^/> (Aarberg, four miles south, Vith 2LiiCveoX ca^^ oV^cd^
gg BASLE TO BERNE.
Counts of Aarberg, etc.), Schiipfen, Miinchenhuchsee, and ZollU
kofen,
Zollikofen is the junction with the Central Railway from
Olten. At a short distance are the Felienberg educational insti-
tutions at Hofwyl. Passing the lofty, three-arched Bridge of
Tiefenau, and the Castle of Reichenbach, where the hero of
Laupen, Rudolph von Erlach, was murdered by his son-in-law,
the railway next reaches the Drilling Ground, passes the new
workmen's quarter, and crosses the Aare by a curious, two
storied bridge into Berne.
BERNE.
(Hotel Belle Vue.)
. Post and Telegraph Office, near the railway station,
west part of town. Branch Office iu the Kramgasse.
Omnibuses run from the station to the principal hotels.
Fare, 50 c. ; extra charge for luggage.
Cabs for one or two persons to drive in the town, 60 c. ;
three or four persons, i fr. 30 c. 5 whole day, two persons,
12 frs.
The English Church is in the Chapel of the Brge r
Spital.
PRINCIPAL SIGHTS, AND TIMES FOR SEEING
THEM.
Arsenal. — p. 105.
Bear-pit. — p. 106.
Biirger-Spital (City Hospital). — p. 105.
Cathedral.— Interior, 30 c. 5 tower, 50 c. See tariff at entrance.
Casino, with Reading-room, etc. — Near the Federal Council
Hall.
Clock Tower (12 o'clock best time). — p. 100.
Federal Council Hall (Bundes Rathhaus), — i franc. Sessions
of " the House," open to the public. The Kunsisaal, Pic-
ture Gallery (see below).
Fountains in various places. — p. 10 1.
Museum. — Free, Tuesday and Thursday, 3 to 5, and Sunday,
10 to 12. At other times, i franc for two or three per-
sons, p. 105.
Picture Gallery (Kunsisaal). — Federal Council Hall, Upper Floor.
Free from g to 4, except Satuxdo^s. From Sept. 15 to
Oct. i^, trifling fee j p. loa.
BERNE. gg
Schanzli. — p. io6.
Terraces. — Cathedral Terrace, p. 102.
Terrace at back of Federal Council Hall (finest view
of Alps from here), p. 104.
Zeughaus (Arsenal). — p. 10 j.
Berthold, Duke of Zahringen, having occasion to overawe
his refractory nobility, built a castle, around which a town sprang
up 5 and this is said to have been the origin of Berne, deriving
its name, its coat-of-arms, and the ubiquitous bear in its public
places, from the fact of its founder having slain one of that
species in the neighbourhood. The town was about a century
old when Frederick II. made it an imperial city. Consumed
by fire in 1405, it arose from its ashes on a grander scale. Berne
united itself with the Swiss Confederacy in 1352, and in 1849
became the Federal Capital.
Berne occupies an elevated position a hundred feet above the
river Aar, which nearly surrounds the city. This river is itself
1500 feet above the sea-level at this point. The city is one of
the most ancient in Europe, and at every turn the visitor is re-
minded of past ages. The main street, nearly a mile in length, ex-
tends from the Ny deck Bridge to the Porte de Morat 5 the smaller
streets are mostly parallel to the main street, and connected by
transverse streets and places, so that the town has a very regular
appearance. The streets, being mostly built in one direction —
from east to west — have the two sides respectively distinguished
as the Cote du Soleil, and the Cote de TOmbre. The whole
town slopes towards the Nydeck Bridge, the part below the
Clock Tower being called the Lower Town, whilst above that
structure lies the Upper Town. A stream from the upper end
of the town runs through channels in the centre of the chief
streets, only partially covered in. The fountains are numerous,
and many of them beautiful 5 they form a striking ornament of
the city. The houses are mostly of grey sandstone, with iron
balconies, containing seats, usually covered with cushions of
crimson, or some other bright colour. The houses, moreover,
are generally so constructed, as to form an arcade over the foot-
way. In cold, snowy weather this has its advantages ; but as
was found to be the case in the Regent Street Quadrant, the
shops are rendered dull and gloomy. This leads to the dkc^ssi^
universal practice in Berne of exposing tYie ^00^^ ovsJesAa^ ^^oa
shop 5 so that if 70U step in to purchase an at\AcX'ei, \\. v^'ViViSj:^
probable tbatyoa will have to step outside \jo ^ec^\^*
IQQ BERNE.
Some handsome promenades, affording grand prospects of
the surrounding country, have been formed on the site of the
ancient fortifications of Berne.
On Market-days (Saturday and Tuesday) the streets of
Beme are thronged with townspeople and peasantry. On
Tuesday especially the scene is very lively. Pleasure as well as
business is made a matter of importance. Few better oppor-
tunities could be found for studyingthemanners, costumes, etc.,
of the Swiss peasantry. Long drays, drawn by ponderous bul-
locks, and laden with farm produce, are passing continually.
The stalls are innumerable ; very conspicuous are those for the
sale of cattle-bells j for here all the sheep, goats, and cattle
wear bells. Meanwhile, provisions of all kinds are being sold —
eggs, poultry, game, vegetables — going at prices that would
delight the soul of an English housekeeper 3 and the whole
scene is one of busy interest and enjoyment.
The visitor will of course be struck with the shaggy animal
which the good city of Beme so delights to honour. Bears
figure prominently on the city arms — on the gates, and foun-
tains, and other monuments — modelled in clay, or more expeu'
sive materials, they abound in the shops ; and besides all this, a
few favoured specimens in the fiesh are kept in a municipal
bear-pit.
The principal street in Beme extends the whole length of
the town, from east to west. It is known as the GerecMig-
keitsgasse in its eastern portion, and subsequently as the
Kramgasse, Marktgasse, and Spitalgasse. The curi-
ous arcaded shops, and the fountains, towers, etc., combine to
render this street very interesting. On market-days (see above)
it is the centre of Bernese life and enjoyment. At the extreme
western end of the street stands the Ober Thor, or Moral
Gate, with its two colossal bears in granite- standing like sen-
tinels on either side. Between the Spitalgasse and Marktgasse
stands the Kaflgthurm, or Bird-cage Tower, now used as a
prison. Between the Marktgasse and the Kramgasse, in the very
centre of the city, stands the noted Clock Tower. When
the founder of the city reared this tower, it guarded the outer
wall. » ^
The following curious exhibition takes plaA whenever the
clock strikes : — At three minutes before the how a cock crows
and flaps his wings ; presently some bears mar(£ in procession
round an old man, and the cock crows again. Then a fool
strikes the hour on a bell with a hammer, whilst the old man
BERNE, jQj
checks off the strokes with his sceptre, and turns his hour-
glass. A bear nods approval, and a final bout of cock-crowing
ends the performance.
At the other end of the Kramgasse is the Barenbrunnen.
It displays a bear holding a pennant, and fully equipped for
battle, with sword, and shield, and helm, and breastplate.
The Fountains of Beme are very numerous. The
Sdliitzen-Brunnen represents a Swiss archer and a young
bear. But perhaps the most curious of these erections is the
Kindlifresser-Brunnen, near the Komhaus. It repre-
sents a monstrous Ogre encircled by bears placidly devouring
a baby, with a number of little ones at his girdle and in his
pockets, waiting their turn.
The Protestant Cathedlral, or Miinster, of Beme is a
handsome Gothic structure, dating from 1421, and constructed
in part by Matthias von Steinhach, son of the builder of Stras-
burg Cathedral. The varied parts of the delicately-traced para-
pet of the roof are the most striking of the exterior beauties of
the edifice. The sculpture on the west portal represents the
Last Judgment ; also a number of prophets and apostles.
Opposite the entrance is a fine bronze statue of Rudolph
von Erlach, with the inevitable bears at the corners of the
pedestal.
The Tower of the Cathedral, still unfinished, is 213 ft. in
height, and commands a good view from the gallery, reached
by 223 steps. The entrance to the tower is by a door on the
west of the chief portal.
On entering the Cathedral, the tariff of charges is seen,
clearly written in German, French, and English. The Interior
is grand and striking in its plain simplicity. In the choir
windows are fifteenth-century stained glass pictures, represent-
ing the Doctrine of the Eucharist and a Scene from our Saviour's
Life J and there are some beautiful carvings of prophets and
apostles on the choir stalls.
The Organ is one of the finest in Europe, and should, by
all means, be heard, if possible. It is played daily at 6.30 p.m.,
I franc being charged for admission.
There are two monuments of historical interest in the
Cathedral — one to the founder of the city, the Duke of Zahrin-
gen y and another to Friedrich von Steiger, and those who fell
with him fighting the French at Grauholz, in 1798. The
exquisite marble group representing the Entombment of
Christ has under it the inscription : " To all thosit ^wsNRSfc^Xssk
102 BERNE.
fell in the battle of 1798 for God and Fatherland, this statue of
the Greatest of all Sacrifices is devoted as an everlasting me-
morial." On the adjacent walls are tablets with the names of
the 18 officers and 683 soldiers who perished on that occasion.
The Munster PlatZ, or Cathedral Terrace, covered with
shady chestnut groves, is a deservedly favourite promenade with
both residents and visitors. On one side if is supported by a
stone wall, rising almost perpendicularly from the bank of the
Aare, 108 feet below. An inscription on the parapet sets forth
how, in i6j4, a horse ridden by a young student was frightened
by some children, and dashed over the precipice. The horse
was killed, the rider only damaged ; he recovered, and became
pastor of Kerzerz. A bronze statue of Berthold von Zahringen
stands on the terrace. The view of the Oberland scenery from
this terrace bafHes description. On all who behold it it seems
to make a lasting impression. The Wetterhom, Schreckhorn,
Jungfrau, Doldenhom, Stockhorn, and other peaks, are con-
spicuous features of the scene. From the West Pavilion the
visitor looks right across to the Finsteraarhorn, Eiger, Monch,
and Jungfrau. Especially wondrous is the prospect when lit
up with the alpgluhen — that marvellous glow which rests on
the mountains just after stlnset — as if the reflection of a huge
conflagration shone on them.
There is a Roman Catholic Churcll in Berne, but the
interior is uninteresting, and there are iron gates to prevent
the visitor from walking round to inspect what little there is
to see.
The finest building in Berne is the Bundes Ratllliaus, or
Federal Council Hall. In this magnificent edifice, 874 ft. long
by 170 broad, are located the Public Offices and the various
Departments of State. Here also are the halls in which the
Swiss Diet or Parliament assembles. Two deputies from each
of the twenty-two cantons form the Upper House, or Senate ;
whilst the House of Representatives is much larger, its mem-
bers being returned by the cantons in proportion to their popu-
lation. Thei debates, which usually take place in July, are open
to the public.
On the upper floor of the building is the KunstsaAl, or
Saloon of Art, open, free, from Monday to Friday inclusive,
except from September i jth to October 15 th. The works here
exhibited are chiefly by native artists.
Tlie positions of the pictures ate soccie^raas altered, but
^e numbers are retained. The objets £ art we Tv\iTcfe«cfe^\\aai
BERNE.
163
X to 197 5 and these numbers include sculptures, etc.^ as well
as pointings. The following is a list of the principal : —
Room I.
1. The Flight into Egypt
2. Madonna and Child .
3. Dutch Landscape
4. The Alchemist .
5. The Walpurgis Night
8—12. Portraits
22. A Sketch . . . .,
24. Flight into Egypt
29. The Triumph of Mars
S^, The Last Judgment .
37. Allegorical Tableau .
39. Justice Crowning Virtue and Con-
demning Vice . . .
43. Battle of Morgarten (p. 51).
46. Judith with Head of Holofernes
^S. Hohenweg at Interlaken (p. 92)
,54. The Reichenbach (p. 81) .
56. Landscape ....
59. Battle of Morat .
61. Swiss Ambassador before Louis XIV.
62. Portrait of Rod. d'Effinger .
67. David with Head of Goliath
70. Monument of Madame Langhaus at
Hindelbank (p. 97) .
73. Infant Sleeping .
. Alhano.
. Barl'ierim
• Both.
. Brekelenkamp.
. P. Breughel,
. Duntz,
. y, yordeans.
Parmeggiamno (?)
. Rubens,
. Ibid,
. Werner.
Ibid.
Folmar,
Fioris.
Konig.
G. Fblmar,
fVust.
K. Rieter,
Dieller.
Imhof.
Sonnenschdn.
Ibid.
Room II.
88. Collection of Swiss Costumes • . Reinhardt.
94. Mont Cervin . . . •. . y. Meyer.
95. The Scheidegg
96. Jungfrau and Valley of Lauterbrunnen . G. Lory.
102. Portal of Berne Cathedral . . . Lohrer.
107. Group of Cats . . . . . G. Mind.
117. Arch of Constantiiie, Rome . . Sonnenschein*
120. Statuette. The FouDdation oi the W\^<&
Coafederation (p. 6jy i • • Doret*
104
BERNE.
Room III.
121. The Last Day of the Ancient Republic
of Berne ...••.
124.. The Cascades at Terni . •
129. Falls of the Giessbach (p. 91)
130. Infant asleep
133. John Huss bidding adieu to his Friends
135. Episode in the Battle of Morat .
139. View near Beme . . . •
143. Lake of Brienz. A Spring Morning .
150. Hagar and Ishmael • . • .
151. Moses
152. Ruth
JValthard*
Bonstetten,
R. Volmarm
Dubufe.
Pixis.
GirardeU
Dalton,
Feillon.
Imhqf,
Ibid.
Ibid,
Room IV.
154. Falls of Schmadribach (p. 87) •
155. Elijah in the Desert .
161. Valley of Lauterbrunnen (p. 85) .
162. Chalet in the Bernese Oberland .
164. The Dying Husband . •
165. Scene from '* Faust" . . ,
167. View near the Han deck (p. 88) .
168. Cascade near Meiringen
172. Mountain Scene. Canton of Glarus
179. Landscape near Geneva
180. Villa Pamfili, Rome .
181. The School Examination
182. The Little Friend
185. Maternal Solicitude
186. Saying Grace
187. View in Rotterdam
196. Rebecca
• Snell,
. Geyer,
. Didai/,
. Ibid,
• Meuron,
• Walthincu
• CalcLtne*
• Ibid.
. Steffun,
• George.
. Meyer.
, Anker.
. Ibid.
m Schimon.
• Vauder,
, Ulrich.
. Imhoj.
Before leaving the Federal Palace, the visitor should not
omit to ascend to the roof. Of all the many sublime views of
the Bernese Oberland, seen from various parts of the city, the
panorama beheld from this vantage point is the grandest and
most extensive.
In front of the building a Fountain will be noticed^ with a
statue representing Beme.
At the back of the Bundes-Rathhaus isa terracei affording
a tnountain view even finer than t\ve ptos^cl ixoxaXSck^ Master
BERNE* lO^k
Platz. The highest mountain (to the eye) on the left, is the
Wetterhom. Standing alone, a little more to the right, is the
Schreckhom. Still further to the right, at the end of a group,
sharp and rugged, is the Finsteraarhom. Then follow the
stupendous mass of the Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau.
Near the Bundes-Rathhaus is the Museum. This build-
ing is open free from 3 to 6 p.m., on Tuesdays, Thursdays,
and Saturdays ; and on Sundays from 10 a.m. to 12 noon. At
other times a fee of one franc is required.
The front of the building is adorned with statues of Swiss
celebrities. The zoological department abounds in stufied
bears of all sizes and ages, and also contains many other ani-
mals, including specimens of the rare lynx and steinbok, a
gigantic wild boar, chamois with three horns, etc. Very inte-
resting is the noted Barry, the dog that saved fifteen lives
during his career at St. Bernard. In the ornithological de-
partment, the lammergeier (king of Swiss birds), is especially
noticeable. . There is a very complete exhibition of Swiss geo-
logical specimens, fossils, etc., with plans in relief. Some
Roman and mediaeval antiquities of interest, form another collec-
tion, in which the spoils from Grandson, and Morat,. are striking.
The University, founded in 1834, is on the S. side of the
Museum. On the otiier side is the Town Library, con-
taining 40,000 volumes, amongst which Histories of Switzerland
abound. The Butter Market occupies the space below
the building.
Close to the Bemerhof there is in course of construction an
Academy of Arts, for painting and sculpture. It is erected
in memory of Rudolph von Effinger, a native of Berne.
At the end of the street leading northward from the Clock
Tower is the Zeughaus, or Arsenal. Many of its chief
curiosities were taken away by the French, but sufficient remain
to make a visit interesting.' Some may find it pleasing to
contemplate the axes, warranted to have cut off a hundred heads
each. Here also are the halters prepared for the Swiss by Charles
the Bold^ and many ancient specimens of arms and armour.
There are many charitable institutions in Berne, of which
the administration and efficacy are well spoken of. The BUrger
Spital, or city hospital, near the Railway Station, bears the
inscription, " Christo in pauperibus '* (To Christ in his poor).
The Waisenhaus, or orphan asylum, is neat tha V^sj^^^xs^*
Anew Maternal Hospital, near t]be 0\i^T^^VQrj,\%xiR»^
ready to be opened.
I06 BERNE.
The Rornhaus is a fine building near the Arsenal, used
till 1830 as a storehouse in case of famine. An immense shield
is conspicuous on the wall, supported (of course) by bears.
The immense Zucthhaus (Prison and Penitentiary), and
the Post Office, are a little to the north of the Railway Station.
There are four bridges across the Aare, and in order to
accommodate the new quarter of the town of Berne, which is
rapidly rising into importance, it is proposed to build a new one
nearly in a line with the Belle Vue Hotel and the Mint. The
Nydeck Bridge is at the extreme eastern end of the main
street of the town. From this bridge the town is seen spreading
out like a fan or the tail of a bird, as far as the gates of Morat
and Aarberg. The structure, 900 feet in length, consists of
three arches, crossing the river Aare at an altitude of 100 feet.
After crossing the bridge, we come upon the Baren-
graben, or Bear Pits, opposite to the old road leading to the
Tower and Bridge of the Porte d'en Bas. In these pits a
few bears are kept at the expense of the State — shuffling about
after the manner of bears in captivity, and swallowing the
donations of visitors, all unconscious of their heraldic dignity.
About twelve or fourteen years ago an English officer fell into
one of the pits, whilst attempting to cross the wall between,
and was killed before he could be rescued.
Not far from the Bear Pits is the Rose Garden, a
pleasant spot to visit if time allows. After leaving the bridge
and the bears* den, the turning to the left leads to the new
Cavalry Barracks and Military School. From 150
to 200 horses are always kept here. Visitors can always get
leave to inspect the stables.
These, then, are the chief points of interest in the city of
Beme, claiming such n6tice from the passing visitor as his time
permits. If able to sojourn awhile in the town, so much the
better. Its local attractions and glorious surroundings can then
be more fully appreciated and enjoyed. The inmiediate
environs are truly delightful, excursions to many renowned
localities can be readily made, and it is en route to everywhere.
Crossing the magnificent railway bridge, we find the slopes
of the Aare charmingly utilized as Botanical Gardens.
About half a mile further on is Schanzli, a favourite place of
resort where refreshments can be obtained, and musical enter-
tammenis attended. The view is magnificent, including the
roofs and spires of Beme, and the fai-s^reading glories of the
Oberland and Stockhom Alps.
BERNE TO LUCEKNE. jqj
A quarter of an hour's walk northward from the Railway
Station^ through the Aarberg Gate, conducts to the Enge, a
high rocky peninsula, forming a pleasant promenade and a good
point of view. Continuing by a charming forest path through
the Engewald, we reach the Castle of Rerchenbach. Here
dwelt Rudolph von Erlach, who led the Bernese to victory over
the Burgundians at Laupen, in 1399. Here also the same
' hero was murdered by his daughter's husband, whose debts he
had refused to pay.
Another noted position from whence to obtain fine views,
is the long hill to the south of the town, called the Gurten, on
the summit of which is an inn. The panorama visible from
this point is a hundred miles in extent, including portions of
the Oberland, Stockhorn, Freiburg, and Jura mountains, and
portions of the Lake of Neuchatel.
A glance at the map will show that from the position of
Berne, and the facilities for railway travelling in several
directions, it is very easy for sojourners in the town to make
excursions to a great number of places. These will be
mentioned in connection with the routes to or from Berne. It
will only be necessary for the visitor to find Morat, Laupen,
Hindelbands:, Fribourg, or whatever place he wishes, in the
index, and its connection with Berne, and its local attractions
will be readily seen.
Berne to Thun and Interlaken (p. 94).
Berne by Herzogenbuchsee and Olten to Basle (p. 97).
Berne to Bienne, Neuchatel, etc. (p. 97).
Berne to Fribourg and Lausanne, etc. (p. 108).
Berne to Leuk, by the Genuni Pass (p. 96).
BERNE TO LANGNAU, ESOHOLZMATT, AND
LUCERNE.
(By railway 3 J hours.)
Berne to Gumlingen junction, on the Berne and Thun RaiN
way (see p. 96).
From Gumlingen the rail passes, with good views of the Stock-
horn chain on the right, to the thriving industrial town of ^Vorb,
with its old castle, and thence by stations Tdgertschi and Konol"
fingen, and round the base of the Homberg, to Zaziwyl, a pros-
perous place. At Signau there is a niltiftd c^&Ni\a ^^n^ *^^
pleasing village. Vassxng Emmenmatty aad ccossva.^ ^^ ^\ssss>»
and the I£is, Limgnau 1% reached.
I08 BERNE TO LAUSANNE.
Langnau is the chief town in the Emmenthal, an indus-
trious and prosperous valley, some thirty miles by twelve in
dimensions, and famous for its widely-exported cheese, its lovely
green pastures, its picturesque wooden houses, and its fine
cattle.
Langnau was, until very recently, the terminus of the rail-
way from Berne, and the remainder of the journey had to be
accomplished by diligence in eight to ten hours. Now the
railway is continued to Lucerne, and it is one of the most im-
portant of the new lines lately opened in that enterprising
country. A glance at the Railway Map will show how greatly
it facilitates the connection between Zurich, Lucerne, Berne,
Lausanne, and Greneva. The route is almost the same as that
traversed by the diligence, namely, the Emmenthal and the
Vale of Entlebuch.
After leaving Langnau, the next important station is Es-
cholzmatt, a rambling little town, the first in the Entlebuch.
Schiipflieim, the chief village of the valley, was destroyed by
fire in 1829, and since rebuilt. Many pleasant excursions may
be made from here. The villagers in the neighbourhood are
celebrated for their strength and skill in the national wrestling
matches. So also are tiie people of Entlebuch, a village
charmingly situated at the foot of the Bramegg, and having on
the west the Napf, from the summit of which splendid views
are obtained. Here the two torrents, the Emme and the
Entle, unite, and add much to the picturesqueness of the place.
Beyond Wohlhusen, or Wohlhausen, the line takes a sharp
curve round the base of the Bramegg to Mailers, after leaving
which station a short run brings the traveller to Lucerne,
p. 58.
BERNE TO LAUSANNE (BY FRIBOURG).
(Railway, 30 miles — about 4 hours.)
The journey is made through a fine open country, abound-
ing with charming landscapes. Passing Bumplitz and Thdris-
hausy and crossing the Sense river, we arrive at Flamatt.
From Flamatt a diligence runs to Laupen (5 miles), where
the Burgundians and their allies were defeated by the Swiss,
under Erlach, in 1399. The commemorative tower was erected
in i8js.
Then stations Schmitten and Guin-Balliswyt, where the
arice is crossed on a cast-iron viaduct, 160 l«,eX. ^t^^ '^^
FRIBOURG. lOQ
water, and 1094 feet from one abutment to the other. Fribourg
comes into view.
The station for Fribourg is at some distance from the town.
Omnibuses await the arrival of passengers. On approaching
by the Suspension Bridge the view is exceedingly picturesque.
The town, with its romantic medley of quaint houses, and
towers, and battlements, and gateways, is finely situated on a
steep eminence above the Sarine Valley, and forms a more
imposing spectacle when viewed from a little distance than when
closely explored.
FRIBOURG.
(Hotel, Grand Hotel Zaehringen.)
This town is the capital of the canton of the same name,
containing a population of 11,000, of whom 1200 are Protes-
tants. It was founded by Duke Berthold von Zahringen in
1 175. It is a curious town, outwardly and inwardly. Goto
the upper part of the town, and everybody and everything is
German 5 to the lower part of the town, and everybody and
everything is French. It is a very hilly town 3 the streets are
steep, and built one above the other j so that in one part the
upper street is carried on arches of stone over the roofs of the
houses in the street below.
There are three things which miLst be seen in Fribourg, and
many more which may if time permit. First, an old lime-
tree, fourteen feet in circumference, its branches supported on
stone pillars. It faces the Town Hall and Council Hall ; and
as the old tree is fruitful in bearing a good story, sit down
beside it and read the following : —
*' When the memorable battle of Morat was being fought,
the townspeople of Fribourg stood in the square anxiously
waiting for tidings of how the day sped. There was one young
fellow in the battle who remembered that the hearts of many
of his friends and fellow-citizen^ were beating painfully in that
time of suspense -, and as soon as the contest was over, he.i3
from the field of blood, jaded and fatigued though he
bear to them the joyful news that the Swiss had been vie
Away he sped over liill and dale, and, sliding down ^ij^y
slope, he grasped a ttvig which would nottiie^ his weiglCCVut
came out by the roots. Rising from tkl^^jjgM, on and (m he
sped, till he reached the square of Fr\boutg,^mifct«{^^^'KN^^^
and maidens, mvalids and \voraen» -were- ^?L\iWL^4^ ^^%\.
&ces and clasped hands, waiting Ta\s ai^ipto^iXi. "te^^"^^®^ ^^^
HQ BERNE TO LAUSANNE.
exhausted, the blood flowing from the wounds he had received
on the field of battle, he could only raise his voice to shout out
the word * Victory ! ' and fell dead in their midst. The twig,
which he still clutched in his hand, was planted on the spot
where he fell j and now that fine old lime-tree stands there as a
beautiful memento of the love and courage of that gallant young
soldier and the victory of Morat.'* This happened in 148 c.
Then the Cathedral, a Gothic building, dating frcm
1285 — 1500, with a fine tower 280 feet in height. The visitor
will be struck with the remarkable bas-relief over the entrance,
"The Last Judgment ** — an angel weighing mankind in batches,
devils carting otf the condemned, etc., etc. The organ is one
of the finest in the world ; there are two performances upon it
each day, and a pleasant hour may be spent here in listening to
its strange and marvellous music. Some wonderful wind and
storm efiects are introduced by the organist. The bust under
the instrument is that of j^loys Mooser^ the builder. The organ
has 67 stops, and 7800 pipes, some of them being no less than
32 feet in height.
Third, the Suspension Bridge thrown across the Sarine,
a small river, which runs through, or rather below, the city ;
for the principal streets are 200 and 300 feet above it. This
Suspension Bridge, the longest in Europe, has a span of 964
feet 5 and as you stand in the centre of it, looking down into
the wild, rocky ravine, you have one of the most striking views
that can be seen. This bridge was complete'd in 1834, at a cost
of nearly ^24,000. It is light and elegant, and yet amazingly
strong.
Across the Gotteron ravine is another bridge, 746 feet long,
and 305 feet above the water 5 it is fastened into the solid rock,
but looks, from its slight and delicate make, like a mere chain
thrown from one side to the other of the gorge.
Amongst the other objects of interest in Fribourg, we may
enumerate the Cantonal School, which, previously to 1848,
was a Pensionnat for 400 pupils, taught by the Jesuit fraternity.
The Jesuit Convent, suppressed in 1847, was founded by
Father Canisius in 1584. The Rathhaus, with its curious
clock-tower j the statue of the Monk Gerard 3 the very perfect
remains of ancient fortifications 3 and the general construction
and architecture of the city.
Leaving Fribourg by the railway, we see Mont Moleson on
the left across the Sarine. Then stations, Matran, Neyruz,
CotienSj Chenens, FillaZ'St.'Pierre, and Romont. The town
BASLE TO GENEVA. J 1 1
(population, 1600) is 2230 feet above the level of the sea.
There is an old castle here, dating from the loth century, in-
cluding in its construction an adapted Round Tower, similar to
those seen in Ireland. Another Round Tower stands isolated
outside the town. The Church was erected in 13th century.
At Romont is the junction for Bulle (45 miles), the chief
town of the Gruyfere cheese district. The village of Gruyer©j
with its 9th century castle, is about two miles from Bulle.
The next station after passing Romont — and, if the day be
fine, catching a glimpse of the head of Mont Blanc — is Sivi-
riez. Then Vauderens, Oron, Pal^zieux, and Chexbres.
Hence an omnibus conveys passengers to Vevay, in about an
hour's time (fare, i franc). Leaving Chexbres, the train darts
through a tunnel, after which a splendid view is obtained of the
Lake of Geneva . Grandvaux and La Conversion (for Lutry)
are next passed ; and then, passing on to the line from Geneva,
the train enters Lausanne (see p. 134).
Lausanne to Greneva (p. 133). Lausanne to Villeneuve (p.
^33)'
BASLE TO NEUCHATEL, LAUSANNE, AND
GENEVA.
The new direct route, via Delemont, abounds in picturesque
scenery. It follows the course of the Birse and Diese rivers, and
pierces the chain of the Jura with numerous tunnels. Another
route is via Herzogenbuchsee and Soleure.
From Basle to Olten and Herzogenbuchsee (see p. 97).
Herzogenbuchsee, the junction for Berne. Inquire whether
it is necessary to change carriages. Stations at Inkwyl, SubU
gen, and Derendingen, then, as Soleure is approached, the Hotel
on the Weissenstein becomes conspicuous.
Soleure (pop. 7000), in German, Solothurn, is a bright,
clean town, the capital of the canton. It is a quaintly interest-
ing place, of Roman origin ; for, under its name of Salodurum,
it was a flourishing colony in very early days. It was once a
strong fortress ; its ramparts (turned into boulevards) form an
agreeable promenade. Fountains and statues abound. The
Catliedral, or St. Ursus Munster, dates from 1762, when it
replaced an earlier erection of the eleventh century. Gideon
wringing out the Fleece, and Moses striking the Rock, form
two striking fountains on either side of the flight of steps, lead-
ing to the facade. St. Ursus was one of the Theban Legion.
The Arsenal> near at hand, contains a good s\\q^ q'I ^t^:cL^^
112 BASLE TO GENEVA.
Austrian, and Burgundian standards, and armour. It is the
best collection of the kind in Switzerland. The most ancient
building in Soleure is the Clock Tower, a rough pile of
masonry, bearing an inscription assigning its erection to the
fifth century b.c. It is, however, believed to be of Burgundian
origin. At the striking of the clock there is a performance of
automatic figures similar to that of Berne. Amongst the other
sights of Soleure we may note the Jesuits' Church, with a
Crucifixion by Holbein (155a), the Roman antiquities in the
Hotel de Ville and in the Public Library, the splendid
collection of fossils (15,000 from the Jura) and minerals, etc.,
at the Museum ; and the Franciscan Church, which possesses
a picture by Raphael. At No. 5 in the Bieler Strasse is the
house where the Polish patriot Koscziusko died in exile, in 181 1 .
Among other charming walks in the vicinity of Soleure
we may note that to the Hermitage of St. Verena, a
pious maiden, who accompanied the Theban Legion. The
path lies through the pretty ravine known as the St. Verenathal.
Near the village of S. Nicholas is the Hermitage where the
saint resisted the devil, a la St. Dunstan, on one occasion only
escaping being carried off by clinging tightly to the rock. The
marks of her finger-nails are still shown. In the vicinity is the
Wengenstein, one of those immense granite boulders fre-
quently seen on the Jura slopes, a memorial of the glacial epoch.
But the chief attraction of Soleure to most is the Weissen-
Stein, which rises to the height of 4213 ft., 8 miles to the north
of Soleure. The view is more extensive than from the Rigi.
The town of Soleure, the valley of the Aare, and the lakes of
Neuchatel, Bienne, and Morat, and a vast assemblage of moun-
tains, including Mont Blanc and the Jungfrau, the Schreckhorn,
the Wetterhom, the Titlis, and the Rigi are comprised in the
scene. The ascent of the Weissenstein is perfectly easy either
by the long winding road or by a steep path through the woods.
Carriages pass to and fro several times a day 5 for, as the pension
at the summit is town property, every facility is afforded for
reaching it. At this pension the Swiss air-cure and whey-cure
are to be experienced in perfection, and all around are ample
opportunities for pleasure walks and rides. The Rothe
(4587 ft.) and the Hasenmiatt (4754 ft.), in the vicinity, afford
even more extensive views than the Weissenstein.
Leaving Soleure, the railway runs between the river Aare and
tlie Jura mountains, and passes the stalionsoi Stbsachy Grencken,
andPie^erlen to Bienne (Germ., Biel).
NEUCHATEL. Uj
Bienne was a free and independent town from 1250 to
1798. Ao interesting collection of Lacustrine antiquities
belonging to Colonel Schwab can be seen by visitors. Leav-
ing the town to the S.£. some beautiful avenues are passed,
and the Lake of Bienne (Germ., Bielen See) is reached*
This is a miniature affair in comparison with the more
celebrated Swiss lakes, being only about 10 miles in length by
2 in breadth. From Neuveville (Germ., Neuenstadt), or,
indeed, from any village on its banks, a boat can be hired to the
small island of St. Pierre. Hither, in misanthropic mood,
came J. J. Rousseau, in 1765, after being ejected from Paris and
stoned by the street boys of Motiers. Of the peace and tran-
quillity of this island home he has written enthusiastically.
The room occupied by him in the little inn is still preserved as
he left it, except that tourists innumerable have scrawled their
names all over it.
[From Bienne, Basle may be reached by a romantic journey
through the defiles of the Val Moutier (Grerm., Munster Thal)J\
The train to Neuchatel runs along the N.W. coast of the lake,
stopping at Twann (Fr., Douanne) and Neuvemlle. From the
latter station, on the right, is seen the Chasseral, rising in three
terraces to the height of 5800 ft. The view from the summit
embraces a considerable extent of Switzerland, the Black Forest,
the Vosges, and the Alps.
The stations of Landeron, Cressier, ComaiLx^ and S. Blaise
are successively passed, and then the Lake of Neuchatel comes
into view. This lake is 24 miles in length by 5 in breadth.
NEUCHATEL.
(Grand Hotel du Loc aad Hotel Bellevue.)
Neuchatel is the capital of the small canton of the same
name, which chiefly consists of six or seven valleys amongst
the ridges of the Jura. From being a Burgundian province in
the eleventh century, this province has since had many masters.
Grerman, Prussian, French, or petty local potentates have . at
various times ruled its destinies before its final settlement as a
canton of the Swiss Republic.
The town of Neuchatel is pleasantly situated on the Jura
slopes, rising from the lake, at its base, in the form of an
amphitheatre. The general aspect of iVie '^Wa \s ^"^^aoic^'a:^
inviting, the streets being open and adiDAt^Vj ^^^^^^^"^^
pnacipal buildings substantial in ap^^eatance, ^ens^as"^^^,^^'
114
BASLE TO GENEVA.
tutions of the first class abound, both in the city and in the
surrounding localities, and it is scarcely possible to walk abroad
without recognizing by eye and ear groups of English pupils.
Neuch^tel is renowned for its wine and its watches. Of
the former, both in red and white varieties^ large quantities are
exported j the latter are produced in vast abundance, and, it
seems, can be produced at a smaller cost here than at
Geneva.
The town is built at the mouth of the Seyon, which has
been diverted from its former course, and made to pass by a
tunnel through the rocks to the lake. On a bank of debris
brought down from the old channel, a fine terrace skirting the
lake, and known as the Promenade du Gymnase, has been
constructed. This is adorned with rows of lime, chestnut, and
other trees, in luxuriant growth. One remarkable clump of
trees, probably 90 to 100 feet high, is to be seen near the Belle-
vue 5 and skirting a» basin of the lake, is a magnificent grove ot
trees, all of gigantic dimensions, under which are placed seats
overlooking the water. On the terrace first-named is an in-
genious contrivance for distinguishing the various mountains in
the vicinity. A brass plate, forming half a circle, has the names
engraved on its outer margin, and a style, fixed by a pivot,
works from one end of the half -circle to the other 5 when the
side of the style coincides with a line on the brass plate oppo-
site — we will say Mont Blanc — spectator looks along the style
and over a '' sight " something like that on a rifle, and, if the
weather is clear, it distinctly marks the mountain we have men-
tioned. The panorama of the lake, the Jura mountains, and the
more distant summits of the Oberland Alps> white with snow,
is very pleasing.
The ScMoss, on the hill, formerly the residence af the
princes of the province, is now used for the Government
offices.
The Temple, or Church, is a Gotluc building dating
from the twelfth century. In the choir is a remarkable monu-
ment, erected in 1372, by one of the Counts of Neuchatel»
- comprising fifteen life-sized figures. Farel the reformer, who
was buried on the terrace outside, and Greneral Zastrow, one of
the Prussian Governors of the town, have also monuments in
this building.
The Gymnasium is the large new educational building in
connection with which Proiessot A.gas!^YZi \i?kS Xseevi ^» tamest a
worker^ It comprises a Museum oi 'Satoa^X. K\^ssrj^\iaK»ar,
NEUCHATEL. I ^ r
trine relics, etc. Open free on Sundays and Thursdays^ from
II to 12 o'clock. At other times i franc is charged.
In the same building is the Public Library, containing
30,000 volumes, and a vast number of autograph letters of
J. J. Rousseau, dating between 1760 and 1770.
In front of the Gymnase is a statue of David Pury, originally
a poor boy, who in the course of his life amassed a fortune of
over four million francs, the whole of which he left to his native
town. The cantonal Hospital was built from the fund thus
created.
The Pourtal6s hospital owes its origin to the munificence
of' a private citizen. It is open to applicants of any religion
or nationality.
The Observatory is a recent erection for the benefit of the
watchmakers of the town.
Picture Gallery. In the Hotel Dupeyron, formerly
the Palais Rougemont, is a very good collection of modern
Swiss pictures. Admission, i franc. Sundays from i to 4,
free.
In the Entrance Hall is a collection of casts.
Rooms f and 2 contain, among others —
8. A Young Savoyard .... Bertkout.
12. Rosenlaui Glacier (p. 81) . . . Calame,
13. Monte Rosa (p. 164) .... Calame.
16. A Huguenot Family surprised by
Soldiers Girardet.
18. Cromwell and Mrs. Clay pole • • Girardet,
19. A Father's Blessing', . . • • Girardet.
32. The Ne'er-do-Well Girardet.
24. The Vintage of 1834 • • • • Grosclaude.
32. View of Rome Meuron,
^^. Lake of Wallenstadt (p. 47) . . Jecklin.
37. View between Isentwald and the Faul-
horn Meuron.
40. Henry II. of Longueville in the Castle
of Colombier Moritz,
50. St. Paolo fuori le Mura, after the fire
of 1823 Robert.
57. A Flemish Bridal Procession in the 17th
century Tsckoj^^ssK^^
In the 3rd Room are portraits, aaA. m ^^ A{(5ft. ^wKft^
sketches and water colours. .^^^
Amongst the excursions froia ISevx^cAxA^ ^^^ ^^ ^
21 5 BASLE TO GENEVA.
Chaumont, — a spur of the Jura chain— is the best. There
is a fine view of the Lakes of Neuchatel, Bienne, and Morat,
and the towns of Soleure^ Berne> and Fribourg^ and the fertile
country between.
The Pierre k Bot (toadstone), is an immense mass of
granite^ above 14,000 cubic feet, in a wood above the town,
probably deposited by a melting iceberg, when the condition of
things in this part of the world was very different from the
present.
Visits to the Grorge of the Seyon, Chan^laz with its Hydro-
pathic establishment 5 or longer expeditions to the Creux du
Vent or Chasseral can be undertaken by those protracting their
stay at NeuchHtel. Steamboat expeditions to Yverdon oi
Morat can also be made.
bienne-chaux-de-fondsandneuohAtel
The traveller wishing to vary the above route and make a
visit to La Chaux-de-Fonds, may do so by taking a train thence
from Bienne, and after visiting Le Locle, proceed to Neuchatel.
Or the visit to Chaux-de-Fonds may be made (as is more
frequently the case), from Neuchatel to Le Locle, either by
railway 2i hours, or by diligence, 4 hours. The best excursion
is, rail to Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle, and diligence from
thence by Les Fonts to Neuchatel.
The views from the railway between Neuchatel and
Hants Greneveys are magnificent.
Stations, Corcelles, Chamhrelien^ Cqffrane.
Hauls Geneveys. The views from here are the finest
on the line, and Mont Blanc is seen to perfection. Passing
through a long tunnel, Convers is reached, and the next station
is La Ghaux-de-Fonds (Hotel de la Fleur de Lis), which
is a large scattered town, resembling an assemblage of villages,
in a bleak bare valley, over 3000 feet above the sea, and very
imperfectly supplied with water. The inhabitants (about
18,000), are almost exclusively engaged in the manufacture of
watches and clocks, which is carried on in the dwellings of the
workpeople, each of whom devotes himself to the manufacture
of one particular piece of the machinery.
There are always to be found commercial travellers in the
hotels, a brisk trade being done here. Sometimes as many as
200,000 watches are manufactured here in the course of the year.
There is not much beyond the inspection of the industries
d the people to detain the tourist
NEUCHATEL TO LAUSANNE.
117
An uninteresting run past Eplatures^ and the traveller
arrives at
Locle (Hotel Jura), another town almost as populous
a& La Chaux-de-Fonds, virhere nearly all the men are watchmakers,
and the majority of the women are employed in the manufacture
of lace. A tunnel through the limestone rock forms a channel
for the Bied, which in former days inundated the plain, and
worked much havoc. The Bied, below its exit from the tunnel,
leaps down a chasm 100 feet deep, and joins the Doubs, the
water of the fait being utilised for turning the mills.
The Saut du Doubs is quite a curiosity in its way, and
should be visited by the tourist with leisure, as the scenery
around is very beautiful, and the fall itself is picturesque.
From Locle by diligence, via Les Fonts, Montmollm, Cor*
celles, and Peseux, to Neuckdtel,
FROM NEUOHATEL TO LAUSANNE
the railway crosses the river Seyon, and then enters a tunnel.
On emerging, be careful to notice the charming prospect of
lake and mountain. Near the Castle of Beauregard, a lofty
viaduct spans the ravine of Serri^res, and we rapidly reach
Auvernier, Here the Pontarlier railway diverges, and after
passing Colomhier (noted for its white wine), we arrive at
Boudry, the birthplace of Marat, at some distance from its
station.
Boudry is the place for the ascent of the Creux dn Vent,
where a strange phenomenon is to bo seen. There is a basin
like a crater at the top of the mountain, and when the weather
changes, clouds of vapour roll within it, but do not quit the
hollow. A gunshot produces a rattling echo like a volley of
musketry. An idea of the phenomenon in miniature is pro-
duced by filling a tumbler with smoke from a cigar, and
witnessing the action of the atmosphere upon it, causing it to
surge and roll like the sea.
At Bevcdx we again reach the lake, and follow its banks to
Yverdon. At the next station, Gorgier St. Auhin, we see the
small town of Estavayer on the opposite bank of the lake.
Passing Vauxmarctis on the right, with castle, and chUteaa
of La Lance, formerly a monastery, on the same side, we
reach Concise, and then Grandson, At Grandson there is a
picturesque old castle, overgrown with ivy. The town is
memorable for its siege, by Charles the Bold, in iW^^ '^W:^
Il8 PONTARLIER TO LAUSANNE, BY VALLORBES.
the populace were cruelly massacred after being induced to
surrender by promises of safety. Roused by this atrocity, the
Swiss collected their forces, rushed on the Burgundians^ and
totally routed them. A collection of antiquities is kept at the
old castle.
Skirting the S.W. end of the lake, we have fine views of
the Jura mountains, and crossing the river Thiele, speedily reach
Yverdon. At Yverdon, Pestalozzi lived from i8oj to 1825,
and elaborated his practical methods of teaching " the young
idea how to shoot. The ancient castle was the scene of his
labours. It now contains a Museum, with Lacustrine curiosities,
Roman antiquities, a Town Library, and Public Schools.
There is much picturesque scenery in the neighbourhood,
affording many delightful walks, or drives, or longer excursions.
The Chasseron may be visited by way of the town of St. Croix,
which annually produces 50,000 musical boxes; also the
Aiguille de Beaulmes^ or Mont Suchet, both over 5000 feet.
Yverdon is a very good place to stay at for those who wish
to explore the scenery of the Val d* Orbe. This excursion can
be effected by taking the train to Chavomay (15 minutes), and
then taking the diligence to the old Burgundian city of Orbe,
or by going on to Chavomay and then taking the branch line by
La Sarraz to the Val Orbe district.
From Yverdon the railway passes along the Thiele Valley,
with fine views of the Jura, and other mountain scenery. The
stations, of Ependes, Chavornay, and EcUpens la Sarraz are
passed, and then Cossonay, on its wood-embowered hill. Near
Bussigny is a branch line to Morges and Geneva (p. 133),
that to the left leading to Lausanne (p. 134).
Lausanne to Geneva (p. 13 3).
PONTARLIER TO LAUSANNE, BY VALLORBES.
Travellers between Paris, Dijon and Switzerland, or vice versa,
will find the New line of Railway from Pontarlier to Lau-
sanne of great convenience. Formerly the tourist had to travel
to Neuch^tel, and thence to Lausanne, the journey being two sides
of a triangle. The new line is the base of the triangle, and it
is an easy problem to solve how great a sating is thus effected.
The line is a continuation of that from Cossonay (see above)
to Vallorbes, and will no doubt be one of the most popular of
the many new Swiss railways.
Leaving Pontarlier^ a Frendi town on the Doubs, where
LAUSANNE TO MARTIGNY.
119
passengers' luggage is examined^ the line for a short distance
runs in the same course as that 'o Neuch^tel. It then
diverges southward^ and continues^ tlirough pleasant scenery,
to Jougne.
Vallorbes, the former terminus of the line, is a consider-
able village, and its inhabitants are nearly all watchmakers.
Romainmotier has an old Abbey Church, dating from 750.
Margaret of Austria was married here to Philibert, Duke of
Savoy (1501).
lla Sarraz, a well-to-do village, with a fine old castle, is
the last station on the line, which soon after joins that from
Neuchsltel to Lausanne, and proceeds to Cossonay (p. 11 8), and
thence to Lausanne.
LAUSANNE TO MARTIGNY.
From Lausanne the railway runs through the Lavaux vine-
yards, and past the coal-mine at Pully to Yevey, and then
past the stations of Clarens, Vernex-Montreux, Veytaux-
Ckillon (for Chillon) to Villeneuve. For further details of
this enchanting district, see the Tour of the Lake of Greneva,
p. ^33-
At Villeneuve the route enters the valley of the Rhone,
about four miles wide, with grand scenery on either side^
which can, however, be much better appreciated from the road
than from the railway. Through a large tract of alluvial soil
the Rhone pours its yellow waters to the lake — ^singularly differ-
ent in hue from the river that leaves the lake at Greneva. This
alluvial land has gradually encroached on the lake ; so that the
Roman station of Port Valais, once on the shore/ is now a mile
and a half from it.
The first station after Villeneuve is Roche, The top of
Mount Yvome was thrown down by an earthquake in 1J845 a
white wine of good repute is produced on the scene of the
catastrophe.
Aigle (Rom., Aguila — Hotel Victoria), is built of black
marble from the neighbouring quarries of St. Triphon. From
this spot a fine excursion can be made to the beautiful scenenr
of the Val des Ormonts. Another trip is to Yillard, a small
village, with several pensions, at a height of over 4000 feet,
and with splendid views of the Valley of the Rhone.
Near Ollon S, Triphon station will be noted a RomatL
Beacon-tower, 60 feet high, on a small wooded YuiW*
120 LAUSANNE TO MARTIGNY.
BEX
(Hotel des Bains),
on the Avengon, is an interesting place> with plenty of accom-
modation in the way of hotels, pensions, and baths. It is a
noted place for the milk and grape cures, and also for bathing in
salt water from the mines. The pension-studded environs are
charming. The most popular excursion is to Devens and
B^vieux, to inspect the salt magazines, evaporating houses, etc.,
and also to explore the excavations from which the rock-salt is
obtained. One of these is a gallery cut into the mountain,
nearly 7000 feet in length, 7 feet high and j feet broad.
From Bex the railway nears the Rhone, and crosses it by a '
wooden bridge, to unite with the line from Bouveret. There is
a fine view of St. Maurice before dashing into the tunnel that
conducts to the station just beyond the town.
ST. MAURICE
(Roman, A^aunum) stands hard by where the Dent de Morcles
on the east, and the Dent du Midi on the west, closely approach,
leaving a gorge only just wide enough for the road and river
to pass. At this spot is a bridge of the 15th century, reach-
ing from the base of one mountain to the base of the other,
with a single arch of seventy feet. The view from the bridge is
really superb, but is missed unless the visitor arrives by road
from Bex. The old town, which was fortified previous to the
Sonderbund War, stands beside the Rhone, with dark cliffs
lowering behind.
The ancient Abbey is one of the oldest religious houses in
Switzerland. Its treasury contains many elaborate specimens
of ecclesiastical art in gold, silver, and precious stones. Queen
Bertha's famous chalice, and a celebrated episcopal staff of gold,
elaborately carved with small figures, and a noted Saracenic
vase, presented by Charlemagne, are amongst the most striking.
There are also a curious MS. of the Gospels, the gift of the
same prince, and various other curiosities.
The Chapel of Yerolliaz, covered with rough frescoes,
is supposed to mark the site of the martyrdom of the cele-
brated Theban Legion, and their leader St. Maurice, whose
name the town now bears. This legion consisted of 6000
men, who had become Christians. In a.d. 302, with the rest
0/ the Roman army^ the Theban Legion, one of the most cou-
VERNAYAZ, 12 1
rageous in the world, crossed the Alps. On arrival at this spot,
Maximian commanded the whole army to offer sacritice to
Jupiter. The Theban Legion refused to take part. For so
doing, every tenth man was mercilessly slain. A second com-
mand^ and consequent refusal was followed by a second deci-
mation. Again and again the terrible ordeal was repeated, till
the whole legion^ except a few who escaped, and became her-
mits, had perished, rather than prove false to the faith of their
Redeemer.
Not far from this traditional spot, the visitor may get a
splendid view by toiling up over four hundred steps to the her-
mitage of Notre Dame de Sax.
The Baths of Lavey (hot sulphurous springs) are on the
opposite bank of the Rhone.
The Grotte aux Fees is a stalactite cavern of immense
length, containing a lake and waterfall^ a short walk from the
station.
The next station after leaving St. Maurice is Evionnaz. The
village marks the site of Epaunum, destroyed by a torrent of
mud in ^6^. Near the same locality a similar stream of mud
descended to the valley in 1835, bringing down numerous
blocks of limestone, etc. As it crept slowly down like a lava-
stream, no lives were lost, but much property was destroyed.
Near La Barma village are the Falls known as the Pisse-
vache, about 280 feet in height, and formed by the descent of
the Sallenche from the Glaciers of the Dent du Midi. Above
the fall, a fine view is obtained of the Glacier of Mont Velan
(12,350 feet), connected with the Great St. Bernard.
VERNAYAZ
(Hotel des Gorges de Trient) is the station for visiting the
Pissevache (li miles), and also the Gorge du Trient (J mile
beyond Vernayaz). A visit to this imposing ravine, with its
rocky precipices, recesses never penetrated by the sun, foaming
torrent, waterfall, and wonderful echoes, is strongly recom-
mended (entrance fee, i franc).
[From Vernayaz Chamouny may be reached by the Valley
of the Trient. The path zigzags up through chestnut woods to
Salvan (3035 feet). Close by is the Cascade du DalUy,
which is worth visiting, but with proper vq&^cXvscl ^\ >Xs» ^jox^
roundin^5, will add two or three hours to \!laft ex.^^^vC\cJc^. ^^ooi.
SaJrsn the ivute forward leads by tlie ¥d\s oi ^'SinLt^^^^^^^^
122 BOUVERET TO MARTIGNY.
on through the Grorge of the Triquent, with the steep slopes
thickly clothed with pines. Passing Triquent (3261 feet), and
Finhaut (4058 feet), the path then descends to Chatelard,
on the T^e Noire route (see p. 158). This cross route will
occupy about four hours, exclusive of time spent at the Cascade
du Dailly.]
Leaving Vemayaz, the Castle of La Bathiaz is passed. It
was built by Peter of Savoy in 1260, and was long a fortress of
the Bishops of Sion 3 but the Round Tower is of much earlier
and unknown date. The Dranse is crossed, and Martigny is
reached.
MARTIGNY.
(Hotel Clerc.)
Martigny is an uninteresting town in itself^ though its situa-
tion as to surrounding scenery is fine. It is an important and
busy tourist centre, from its position at the junction of the
routes from Chamouny (see p. 157), and the Great St. Bernard
(see p. I j6), with the routes from Geneva to the Simplon, etc.
(see p. 170) Martigny has been twice nearly destroyed by inun-
dations from the Dranse, the last occasion being in 18 18. Of
the latter calamity, evidences on the walls of some of the build-
ings are still apparent. The bridge is one of the specimens of
the roofed wooden bridges of Switzerland ; the monastery sends
its inmates in their turns to keep guard at the Hospice of St.
Bernard.
From Martigny, or from Saxon les Bains, the Pierre k
Voir ridge (8124 feet) maybe ascended in five hours ; descent,
three hours. The descent to Saxon by sledges is performed in
less than half an hour. The panorama of the Alps, from the
summit is very fine, including the Jungfrau (E.), the Great
Moveron (N.), the Dent du Midi, the Aiguilles Rouges (W.),
the Aiguille du Tour, the Great St. Bernard, Mount Velan, the
Great Combin (S.), and many other intervening heights.
Visitors not intending to go from Martigny to Chamouny
should, if time allows, make an excursion at least to the Forclaz
(see p. 159).
BOUVERET TO MARTIGNY.
From Bouveret (see p. 142) the railway passes over ground
formed since the time of the Romans, lo Port 7al<us, once a
resJ port on the shore of the lake. Porte du Sex \s -ossfX.
BOUVERET TO MARTIGNY. , 23
reached, a narrow gap between the mpuntain and the river,
formerly the fortified gate of the Canton of Valais.
Youvry stands where the unfinished Stockalper Canal,
commenced in 1740* joins the Rhone. In passing Evionnaz,
notice the view of Yvome, the Diablerets, and Oldenhorn, on
the opposite side of the Rhone Valley. Monthey is at the mouth
of the Yal d'lUiez. Up this delightful valley, well stocked
with rare plants, for the delectation of botanists, a fine excursion
can be made to Champ^ry. Hence the Dent du Midi can be
ascended.
Near Monthey are some huge boulders, in a chestnut wood,
evidently deposited by a glacier. Among them is the celebrated
rocking-stone^ the Pierre Adzo.
After leaving Monthey, the mountains converge towards the
river, and the rail from Villeneuve is joined before entering the
tunnel leading to St. Maurice.
St. Maurice to Martigny (see p. I2i),
PMk «^
^eirek^
German^ Genf. French^ Geneve. lialian, Ginevra.
Hotels. — Hotel de la Metropole; Grand Hotel de Russie et
Anglo- Americaine (with magnificent views) ; Hotel du
Lac. (These Hotels are admirably situated in the best
part of Geneva.) Cook's Tourist Office, po, Rue du
Rhone^ adjoins the Hotel du Lac.
Theatres.— Ancien Theitre, Place Neuf 3 Theatre des Vari6-
t6s. Rue Levrier.
The Post Office is on the Quai de la Coulouvrenifere
(7 a.m. to 8 p.m.). The Telegraph Office is on the first
floor (7 a.m. to 9 p.m.).
The Passport Office, Hotel de Ville, No. 28 (9 a.m. to
^ p.m. 3 Sundays, 9 a.m. to i p.m.).
The English Consul's Office is at the General Post
Office 5 that of the United States Consul, 2, Rue de la
Paquise.
Carriages wait on the various Places. The coachmen
must give a printed card, with number, name, and address, and
the local taritF.
Omnibuses run to Carouge, S. Julien, Momix Fernay,
and^ in the season^ to the Voirons.
A Tramcar runs to Carouge, starting from the Place
Neuve, and another to Chene, from the Cours de Rive.
Steamboats start for the northern and southern banks
of the Lake from the pier beside the Jardin Anglais. The
express boats from the pier close by the Hotel de Russie. Ex-
cellent provisions on all the boats.
Diligences from the Grand Quai, Place du Rhone, and
Zeon (/'Or. To Chamouny, once daily. To Sixt, once a-day.
To Thonon, twice daily.
GENEVA.
125
PRINCIPAL SIGHTS, AND TIMES FOR SEEING
THEM.
Academical Museum. — Sundays, 1 1 a.m. to i p.m. 5 Thursdays,
I to 3 p.m. 5 p. 130.
Arsenal. — By permission from Military Office, Hotel de Ville j
p. 129.
Ath^n^ (near Rue Beauregard). — Exhibition cf Pictures.
Biblioth^que Publique. — 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. 5 p. 129.
Birthplace of Rousseau. — p. 129.
Botanic Garden. — Free all day; p. 129.
Bridge of Mont Blanc. — p. 127.
Cathedral. — ^ franc to concierge ; p. 128.
Hotel de Ville. — ^p. 129.
House of Calvin. — p. 128.
English Garden, and other Promenades, Quays, etc. — p. 127.
Observatoire. — First Thursday in month, 4 to 5 p.m. 5 p. 128.
Rath Museum. — Free on Thursdays, from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
At other times a gratuity to the guardian ; p. 129.
Relief of Mont Blanc. — Daily, from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. A
small contribution required, except on Sundays and
Thursdays; p. 127.
Zoological Museum of the Alps. — Daily, 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.
New Opera-house constructed on the same plan as the one at Paris.
Geneva is the most thickly populated town in Switzerland,
although it is only the capital of the smallest of the cantons ;
population, 62,600. The river Rhone separates the town into
two parts, and this natural division has almost as naturally sepa-
rated the inhabitants into two classes, the Quartier St. Gervais
being chiefly occupied by folk of the poorer sort. The city, like
many others on the Continent, is being rapidly transformed 5
progress and improvement are noticeable everywhere, both in
and around the place. The railways which concentrate here
have wrought great changes ; for all around acres of fortifica-
tions have been cleared away to make room for beautiful pri-
vate residences, and public buildings, and institutions. The
chief manufacture of the town is watches, of which about
100,000 are turned out every year. In the production of these
an amazing quantity of gold, silver, and piecVoMS ^\.cpCL'iVw'5»'av"^^^
use of. The visitor will find splendid as>sot\ss\'et^ cJv ^"^^^^
and jewellery in some of the shops oi Geuev^i*
1 26 GENEVA.
Geneva and its lake have an interesting and eventful history,
of which, of course, .only the most pronjiinent details can be
briefly glanced at here. Passing over the ages when the mas-
todon and his compeers were evidently lords of the rich tropical
luxuriance which then characterized this district, we find the
mysterioiis tribes of the Age of Stone dwelling on the shores of
the lake, and leaving memorials of their existence in the piles
and stakes that supported their rude huts. Then, as history
dawns, come the Helvetians and Allobroges, who have left
weapons, and chariots, and Druidical monuments in evidence.
For a time mighty Rome asserted her sway in these regions ;
then, as Rome decayed, Teutonic tribes conquered or assimi-
lated the Gallo Roman element, which, however, has always
been prominent in this part of Switzerland to the present time.
How Burgundians and Franks occasionally wrested these fair
regions from each other we cannot stay to tell. In 1033 the
Burgundian Empire broke up, and these States became absorbed
into the German Empire. And now Greneva and Lausanne
slowly ripened for free institutions and Protestantism, whilst
the country districts of Vjaud were still intensely feudal and
Romanist.
Greneva became a town of the German Empire, governed
by a Prince Bishop. By continuous struggling, the Genevese
contrived to reduce the episcopal power to a minimum, and to
a large extent governed themselves. Meanwhile, another dan-
ger threatened ; the neighbouring Dukes of Savoy managed to
draw Vaud from its allegiance to the Empire, and longed to
obtain Gtenev^ also. They got scions of their own house
appointed by the Pope to the Grenevese bishopric, and much
oppression, and strife, and discord resulted for some two hun-
dred and fifty years. At length, to throw off the yoke that was
growing intolerable, the burghers of Geneva allied themselves,
in 1530* with Berne and Fribourg. It was about this time that
the patriot Bonnivard was seized by the Duke of Savoy, and im-
prisoned in the dungeons of Chillon for six years (p. 141). Fierce
war now raged between the Duke and the gallant burghers.
In 1536, by the aid of Berne, Geneva was freed, Chillon taken,
and Bonnivard and his companions released. In 1580 the
struggle was renewed, and raged till 1602. In that year the
event known as ^ Hie Escalade," a final attehipt to take Greneva,
failed. Savoy now accepted the situation, and left Geneva to
Itself, growing and prospering, and bacVLfid \v^ Vxy ^ ^^® ^®"
formed Countries ot Europe.
GENEVA. J 27
The Reformed Countries might well be interested in Geneva,
for here Calvin had taught from 1543 till 1564, and made the
town memorable for ever in the history of religion. The tour-
ist, as he stands by that small square stone in the cemetery
bearing the initials, "J. C./* will think of the mighty forces
that have been put in motion through that man*s work, and of
the fruit of seed sown in troublous times in the good town of
Geneva.
In 1 7 12 Jean Jacques Rousseau was bom at (Jeneva, and
has stamped the impression of his genius on much of the
surrounding scenery.
Geneva was made a province of France in 1798, under the
name of Leman; it again, however, became free in 18 14, and
joined the Swiss Confederation. In 1846 the aristocratic
Government gave place to a democratic one, and since then
affairs have gone smoothly.
The sights of Geneva can be readily seen in a single
day. Passing from the Place in front of the Railway Sta-
tion (where the large Hospice des Orphelins is a con-
spicuous object), along the Rue des AJpes, and turning up the
Rue Levrier, we reach the English Church, a small but
elegant building, consecrated by the Bishop of Winchester in
1853. Thence the Rue du Mont Blanc will bring us to the
Pontdu Mont Blanc, completed in 1863. There the visi-
tor obtains a good general view of the city, with its broad quays
along the banks of the blue and rushing Rhone. But the dis-
tant view is very striking, as from this bridge is obtained one of
the best possible views of the Mont Blanc chain, in some re-
spects eclipsing that from Chamouny . Between this bridge and
the next, the Pont des Bergues, is a small island, called the lie
de J. J. Rousseau. It contains a statue of that writer by
Pradier, At the other end of the Pont du Mont Blanc (left
bank) is an open place, where stands the National Monu-
ment, a bronze group by Dorer of Helvetia and Geneva. It
commemorates the union of Geneva with the Swiss Republic.
Close at hand is the Jardin Anglais, a pleasant and
attractive promenade. Concerts and f^tes take place here during
the summer months. In a small building in the garden is a
Relief of Mont Blanc, the finest model in Switzerland ol
this celebrated group. On Sundays and T\\\«^^V5^ \\. V5» ^sf^Rsa.
free from 11 to 3 $ at other times tVie ad\mssvoTv.\&^V^ ^^^^^^
Jibe model is carved in lime-wood, tYie arXisX., Seu^ , Vwv^^^«!^
128 GENEVA.
ten years engaged upon it. From this garden may be seen,
standing just above the waters of the lake, the Pierres du Niton,
said to have been used as Roman altars for the worship of Nep-
tune. By some they are considered to be portions of a harder
rock than the bed of the lake, from which surrounding softer
materials have been washed away ; others assign them a glacial
origin.
The Quai de Rive will conduct us to the Church of
S. Joseph and the Hall of the Reformation. The latter
was erected by public subscription in memory of Calvin, its
chief use being for lectures, etc.
The Boulevard Helvetique stretches across the more modem
part of the town. In the vicinity are the School Of Gym-
nastics, the Observatory, and the Greek Church. The
latter is an edifice in the Russian style, with a gilded dome 3 it
is noted for its exquisite music.
North of the Rue de la Fontane, is the court of the Cathe-
dral. This edifice, dedicated to S. Pierre, dates from a.d. i i 24,
and is a fine example of the Romanesque style. The Corinthian
Porch, added by AJfieri at the commencement of the present cen-
tury, is an incongruous blemish. The interior displays some
fine wood carving in the stalls, and some stained glass windows,
and several monuments of interest. That of the Duke de
Rohan and bis wife, Margaret de Sully, and their son Tancred,
is worthy of notice. Rohan was leader of the Protestants in the
reign of Louis XIII., and was killed at Rheinfelden in 1638.
On two sculptured lions rests a black marble sarcophagus, above
which is a statue of the Duke in plaster, the original one of
marble having been destroyed in the time of the French Revo-
lution of 1798. The grave of Jean de Brognier, once Presi-
dent of the Council of Constance, is marked by a black tomb-
stone in the nave. The monument to Agrippa d'Aubigne,
erected by the town in grateful remembrance of his services
whilst in exile at Geneva, will be noticed in one of the aisles.
He was a favourite of Henri Quatre, and grandfather of Madame
de Maintenon. But perhaps to many, more interesting than
any of these pretentious monuments, as a memorial of the illus-
trious dead, will be the Canopy of the Pulpit. It is the same
which hung over Calvin when the Genevese burghers crowded
the Cathedral, and drank in the Truth of Grod from bi^ im-
passiontd lips.
Close by the Cathedral, at No. ii,B:vie des Chanoines, is
d!ie house where Calvin lived lot TivaftVeeri ^^?Lt^,«A
GENEVA. 126
where, in 1J64, he died in the arms of the devoted Beza.
Turning from thence up the Rue de S. Pierre, we come shortly
to the Arsenal. Here are preserved many specimens of
mediaeval arms and accoutrements of the Swiss. The Duke of
Rohan's armour is shown -, also some scaling ladders, and other
memorials of the Duke of Savoy's abortive "Escalade" in
1602. At the end of the Rue de S. Pierre is the Hotel de
Yille, a good-sized, heavy building in the Florentine style, the
square tower dating from the 15th century. In this building an
inclined plane takes the place of a staircase, so that it was pos-
sible to enter the Council Chamber on horseback. In the Salle
de la Reine are some fine pictures. It will be remembered that
this edifice is associated with the history of our own time ; for
here in 1872 sat the Arbitration Commissioners on the Alabama
Claims. In front of the Hotel de Ville, in 1762, the Emile of
Rousseau was burnt by the common hangman. Now the city
counts his fame and glory as her own.
In the Grand Rue, at No. 40, is the house in which
Rousseau was born. The house formerly shown as his
birthplace, at No. 27, Rue Rousseau, was the abode of his
grandfather.
In or near the Place Neuve are two or three objects of
interest. The Musee Rath owes its foundation to the
Russian General Rath, who was a citizen of Geneva. It
contains some good paintings, i.e., some landscapes by Salvator
Rosa, some pictures by the Swiss artists Diday and Calame,
and the Death of Calvin, by Homung, There are also some
beautiful plaster casts by Pradier, and a collection of enamels.
The adjacent Conservatoire de Musique was founded
through the liberality of a Genevese, M. Bartholony. Close by
is the Botanic Garden, founded by the celebrated De
Candolle in 18 16, and memorable for the horrible scenes enacted
here by the Republicans in 1 794.
Opposite the Botanical Gardens is the Acadbmie, a fine
building, erected in 1871. It contains the Bibliotheque
Publique, which owes its origin to Bonnivard, whose library
formed the nucleus of the present collection (p. 129). It con-
tains more than 73,000 volumes, and an immense number of
MSS. Amongst these are autograph letters of Calvin, Beza,
Luther, Rousseau, S. Vincent de Paul, etc., documents of the
Council of BMe, a MS. volume of tlve 'W2XAfexiiva».^> ^* "^v^^^
Lecon^'* aad many other unique c\it\os\Uei&» 'l^i^'et^ vs* ''^'^^ "^
coIJectJon of precious miniatures* In tVi\s \tLS>C\X\x\\o^ ^^ "^^^
IjO GENEVA.
see, amongst .the portraits one picture which is a sad reminder
of the intolerance so often mixed with earnest belief. It is a
picture of Servetus, the Spanish Unitarian, condemned by Cal-
vin. It bears the label, " Burnt at Geneva, to the honour and
glory of God.*' In the same building is the Academical
Museum, containing the geological collection of De Saus-
sure and the zoological collections of Boissier and Neckar,
etc. There is also a collection of medals and antiquities.
The Eglise de la Madeleine, in the Place of the same
name, is the oldest religious edifice in the city, dating from the
loth century. The doctrines of the Reformation were first
taught in this church in i J34. One of the favourite Protestant
places of worship in Geneva is the Temple St. Gervais, in
the Rue du Corps Saint, where, on Sundays, the most popular
greachers may be heard. It contains the tomb of the seventeen
eroes of the Escalade. The Roman Catholic Church of
Notre Dame, in the Place Comavin, was commenced in iSji,
and dedicated to the Immaculate Virgin in 1859. Pope Pius IX.
presented the statue of the Virgin Mary, by ForzanL The
windows are from designs by Claudius Lavergne,
We have enumerated the chief objects in which the tourist
is likely to be interested. There are, of course, other churches,
municipal buildings, fountains, etc., the nature of which will
readily be ascertained by the inquiring visitor.
With a few exceptions, the streets of Geneva are neither
imposing nor picturesque. The quays, however, are broad and
handsome, and afford pleasant and much-frequented prome-
nades. The terrace near the Town Hfall, known as La
Treille, affords a splendid prospect; and parallel with the
Botanic Gardens is a pleasant walk under a fine avenue of trees,
called Les Bastions. The Plaine de Plainpalais is the
Champ de Mars of Geneva ; it is pleasantly surrounded with
trees and houses. The Corraterie was anciently the rampart
where the "Escalade" of 1602 was tried, and failed. A fountain
in the Rue des AUemands commemorates this efvent. In the
Cemetery of Plainpalais will be found the supposed grave of
Calvin, already alluded to, and also the graves of Sir Himiphrey
Davy and the great botanist, De CandoUe.
GENEVA.
ENVIRONS OF GENEVA.
131
In addition to excursions on the lake (to be mentioned pre-
sently), several pleasant walks and drives can be enjoyed in the
neighbourhood of Geneva. Amongst places most visited is the
Confluence of the Rhone and Arve, a little below the
island where the eagles (heraldic emblem of the canton) are
kept in a cage. It is very curious to watch the two rivers as
they meet at the junction, but do not blend for a considerable
distance ; the Rhone, a deep blue, which gives you the idea that
anything white steeped in it must come out dyed 5 and the
Arve, a thick, dirty white, struggling side-by^side, until at
length they merge into a mottled mass of waters. Voltaire's
villa, Les Delices, can be viewed on the way to the Confluence.
Greneva abounds in beautiful suburbs and environs, and
no difficulty will be experienced in reaching them by those
having time at their disposal. Travellers with limited time
should secure one of the open carriages on the quays, and drive
round to the niost picturesque spots. The coachmen are accus-
tomed to such drives, and can be trusted to make the selection
according to the time the visitor can spare.
We will just enumerate a few of the chief points of interest:
Secheron, with villa of Sir Robert Peel. Varemb6, where the
Empress Josephine, and subsequently Lola Montez, resided.
Pr6gny, with fine villa of M. Rothschild j open by cards
from the hotels, on Sundays and Thursdays, from 12 to 3.
the Petit Sacconnex, with the finest cedars in Europe, about
100 feet in height, and a dozen feet in circumference. The
Grand Sacconnex, from which splendid views of Mont
Blanc, etc., are obtained.
On the Savoy side : the Campagne Diodati, residence
of Byron in i8i6j the promenades of the Bois de Fron-
tinex ; the Genevese holiday-makers* resort at Montalegre.
A special excursion on the Savoy side should be made, if
possible, to Mont Saleve (4527 ft.), from which a grand
panorama of the lake and adjacent cantons of Geneva and
V^ud is beheld. Half a day must be allowed. Cost for
two-horse vehicle and driver to the Little and Great SaBve,
28 francs.
Fernex, in France^ is distant only 5 miles from Geneva*
Here Voltaire lived, and built the cbxiici^ Vi>i3a. ^^ vq&w.^<ns«^»
** Deo erexit VoJtaine." Here is tbe gM^eti ^\vet^ V'^ ^^ *^
compose; also. Us bed, arm-chait, etc. •, «sA ^^ xaacoa^^ssossi^
132 GENEVA.
which was intended by the Marchioness de Villette to contain
his heart.
The Perte du Rhone, where the river dives beneath
the rocks (10 minutes from Bellegarde station) ; the immense
French fortifications, known as the Fort de I'Ecluse (half
an hour from Collonge station 5 the splendid Suspension
. Bridge of La Caille, over a gorge 700 ft. in depth, which
can be visited by the diligence which runs along the road to
Annecy, are within excursion distance from Greneva.
Les Voirons, a charming excursion, can be reached by
omnibus (p. 124).
THE LAKE OF GENEVA.
(Locus Lemanus of the Romans.)
The Lake of Geneva is the largest in Switzerland, being on
the north shore 56 miles long, and on the south 44 j it is in
shape like a crescent $ its surface is 1230 ft. above the sea level,
and its depth from 300 to 600 ft. The widest part is near
Lausanne, where it is 8 miles across 5 and the extreme beauty
of its scenery is between Villeneuve and Ouchy. The colour
of the water is blue 5 that of other Swiss lakes being green.
It has been sung about, written about, preached about 5 and to
select what has been said and sung would fill a large volume.
Byron is always quoted, and deservedly, as he is, par excellence,
the poet of the lake. Everybody knows the lines —
^ Clear, placid Leman ! thy contrasted lake,
With the wild world I dwelt in, is a thing
Which warns me, with, its stillness, to forsake
£arth*8 troubled waters for a purer spring.
This quiet sail is as a noiseless wing
To yrak me firom distraction."
And the lines —
** Lake Leman woos me with its crystal face.
The mirror where the stars and mountains view
The stillness of their aspect in each trace
Its clear depth yields of their far height and hue.*
A delightful hour or two in the evening may be spent in
rowing on the lake in a good English boat (to be hired for 2 or
3 francs an hour on the Quai du Mont Blanc), or to take a
place in the steamer for a short trip, and, if so inclined, select
one that has a company of Swiss singi&ts on board, to give a
promenade concert
LAKE OF GENEVA. j^^
NORTHERN BANK.
We will now make the circuit of the lake describing all
that is of importance, and leave the tourist to visit for himself
whatever opportunity and inclination may render desirable^ or
if unable to do more, survey them as well as possible from the
steacper deck, or the window of the railway carriage.
The railw^ay from Geneva along the Northern shore of
the lake, has stations at Chaml^, GenihocUBellevue, Fersoix,
Coppet, Celigny, Nyon, Gland, Rolle, Auhonne, St, Prex, Morges,
RenenSf Lausanne^ Lutry, Cully, Vevey, La Tour de Peilz, Burier,
Clarens, Fernex-Montreux, Feytaux-Chillon, Filleneuve, Some
of these places are small, but are well known to many English
visitors, from having children or friends at the schools which
abound all through the district. There are also numerous
houses and chS.lets which belong to or are occupied by English
gentlemen. Many exquisite views of the lake are obtained on
this route.
The steamboat journey, which is performed between
Geneva and Villeneuve in about four hours, is far preferable to
the rail, presenting a thousand charms which cannot be seen
and leisurely contemplated from a railway carriage. The
steamer keeps near the Swiss or Northern side, passing in front of
S6cheron, Pr^gny (p. 131), Chambesy, Bellerive, Grenthod (where
the two Grenevese scholars, De Saussure and Bonnet dwelt),
and Versoix. This town .was vainly attempted to be nursed
into a rival of Geneva by Choiseul, the minister of Louis XV.
Looking southward, we have a grand view of Mont Blanc;
the peaks surrounding it are the Sal^ve, the Savoy Alps, the
Dole and the Voirons. Northward, the long blue line of the
Jura forms the background of the Swiss shore. Above
Versoix, is the pass of La Foncile, one of the few carriage roads
across the Jura 3 it passes under the Reculet, the highest sum-
mit of the range, and affords magnificent views.
At Versoix we leave the Genevese territory and enter the
Canton of Vaud. Soon we reach Goppet, where there is a
chllteau belonging to the Due de Broglie, where Necker, the
Finance Minister of Louis, retreated to end his days, and
where also his daughter, Madame de Stael, spent the long years
of her exile, when banished by NapoleotL 1. T\s& x^^^^ ^'s^-
spicuous on the green hills by Copi^el^ ^x^ '^-^^^ «Ck.^ '\.««&«?«
The next landing place is by CfeligXiL-^ , ^\i\c)Ci S>clom^ ^xveis^"^
1 3^ LAUSANNE.
by Vaud, is Genevese territory. Close by, the pretty village
of Crans is noticeable.
The nei^t stopping place is at Nyon, an ancient Roman
colony, founded by Julius Caesar. From this place the
ascent of the Dole is most readily accomplished. The pro-
montory of Promcnthoux here juts out, opposite to that of
Yvoire in Savoy, and passing these, the lake expands to a much
greater width. Above the point of Promenthoux, is the
Chateau de Prangins, formerly belonging to Joseph Buona-
parte. Prince Napoleon's villa. La Bergerie, is very near.
Passing Dulit, Bursinel, Bursins, and other villages, and
numerous pleasant villas, we arrive at Rolle, from which to
Thonon on the opposite shore the greatest width of the lake is
measured. This is an agreeable little town with a small island
in the harbour, laid out as a promenade, and adorned - with a
monument to Greneral La Harpe, a native of the place. We
next come in sight of Perroy and Allaman, passing the cele-
brated vineyard of La Cote, nine miles in length. Between
Rolle and Aubonne, on the height above, the Signal de Bouchy
should be noticed. One of the most extensive views in Swit-
zerland is obtained from it.
Passin|^ close to the point of S. Prex, and in sight of in-
numerable villas, and the towering ruins of the Chateau de
Wufflens, attributed to good Queen Bertha in the loth cen-
tury, we arrive at Morges. (Hotel des Alpes. Pop. 2800),
with its arsenal and cannon foundry close by the lake. Here
Mont Blanc is again beheld 3 a splendid view, one of the finest on
the lake. It is, however, quickly lost as we pass on. Morges
is a delightful place for a lengthened visit. The picturesquely
situated village of S. Sulpice is soon left behind, and the next
landing place is Ouchy.
Ouchy (Hotel d'Angleterre). At the Hotel Ancre,
Byron and Shelley had to stay two days through stress of
weather after boating across from Diodati, and here "The
Prisoner of Chillon ** was written. Omnibuses run from
Ouchy in half an hour, for half a franc, to Lausanne.
LAUSANNE.
(Hotel Gibbon, an excellent house, in the best situation) . In
the garden-house of the Hotel Gibbon, Gibbon completed his
^'Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire."
• Laasaane is the capital of the Catvtoti oi Na>i^,\j^«»JC\l\3».l
LAKE OF GENEVA. jJS
situate on hills and intervening valleys. It enjoys the advantage
of a salubrious climate, and a moderate temperature in winter 5
but its streets are badly paved and unpleasant for promenading,
and conveyances here are dear and unsatisfactory.
From the steamboat or railway, the town is entered by the
Rue de Grand Chene, which conducts to the Place S. Fran-
co! s^ the chief place of public resort, containing the Post and
Telegraph Offices, etc , and also the Hotel Gibbon, in the
garden of which the great historian completed his history of
Rome. To the left is the Grand Pont, a fine structure with
a double row of arches, spanning one of the intersecting valleys,
and affording a good central view of the city.
The fine old Cathedral, whosre (Jothic towers were seen
standing high and dark against the sky, before landing ^t
Ouchy, is the chief sight of the town, and indeed the only one
which need detain the tourist desirous of making rapid transit.
The most direct approach is by 164 mean-looking steps, ascending
from the market place. Like most Protestant places of wor-
ship, the Cathedral is not generally open to the public j Thurs-
day only being the day on which it can be seen without
application to the sacristan. No. j in the little square north of the
Cathedral. The simple and massive edifice is one of the hand-
somest Gothic churches in Switzerland. It is associated with the
stirring events of the Reformation, for here in i j.36, Calvin,
Farel, and Viret met in disputation ; from which came about
the separation of Vaud from the Romish Church, and the
transfer of its allegiance from Savoy to Berne. The Cathe-
dral, originally founded about 1000 a.d., was completed in its
present form in 1275, and consecrated in the presence of
Rudolph of Hapsburgh, by Pope Gregory X. It is 333 feet in
length and 61 in height. It has a central spire and two towers
to the west, of which only one is really completed. The beau-
tifully sculptured West Portal (of recent date) and the South
Portal, or Porch of the Apostle, claim special notice. The pro
minent features of the interior are —
Columns " (over a thousand) **
The Rose Window.
Moniunent of Otho of Grandson.
Tomb of Victor Amadeus VIII. (who was successively
duke, bishop, pope (Felix V.), and finally monk.
Monuments of —
Bishop of Menthonex.
Russian Princess Orlow.
J 2$ LAUSANNE.
Duchess of Courland.
Harriet, first wife of Lord Stratford de RedclifFe, by
Bartolini.
Robert Ellison.
Countess Wallmoden.
There is a fine view from the Terrace surrounding the
Cathedral 3 but if the visitor likes to ascend the clock tower (162
feet)^ a much finer prospect will be obtained.
The visitor who has time to make the round of the town,
will find a few other objects of interest. In the Rue Montee
de S. Laurence is the Musee Arlaud, containing some good
ancient and modem works of art, open free on Sundays, Wed-
nesdays, and Saturdays, from 1 1 a.m. to 3 p.m. Near the
Cathedral is the old cMteau, erected in the 13th century, but
since subjected to many alterations. It is in form a heavy
square tower, with turrets, and from once being the Episcopi
Palace, it has now become the Council Hall. The Barracks are
adjacent, and at a short distance are the Academy and College
(founded in 1587). In the Museum, which is worth a visit,
will be found —
Collection of Minerals, given by Emperor Alexander to
Greneral La Harpe.
Zoological and Botanical Collections.
Antiquities from Herculaneum, Pon^eii, etc.
Relief of the Bernese Oberland.
Antiquities from Aventicum.
Objects from the Swiss Lake Dwellings.
Natural History Collection.
The schools of Lausanne are in very high repute, and pupils
from Great Britain are found in them in large numbers. Pro-
fessors of music, drawing, etc., abound. The Public Schools
of Design .maintain a high standard of excellence. There is
an Asylum for the Blind, admirably conducted, which owes its
origin to Mr. Haldimand, an Englishman, who, when
resident here, took great interest in works of philanthropy and
benevolence.
In the Rue de Bourg, which is the central and chief busi-
ness street, containing most of the principal hotels, there is an
English Reading-room and Circulating Library, where, for
an admission fee of half a franc, the traveller can peruse the
Times, Punchy Illustrated London News, or other favourite
Journals from home. The English Chapel is on the road between
L,ausanne and Ouchy.
LAKE OF GENEVA. joy
THE ENVIRONS OF LAUSANNE
are exceedingly beautiful ; an abundance of tasteful country
villas enliven the scene. Those fond of a quiet, healthy town,
with plenty of opportunity for charming walks in the vicinity,
will find their tastes well provided for. One of the most fre-
quented spots is the Montbenon, a fine open promenade on
the Greneva road, commanding a lovely prospect of the lake and
its surroundings. The Signal is on a hill 2000 feet high, north
of the town. The finest view in the neighbourhood is obtained
here, the greater part of Lake Leman being visible, and a vast
horizon, crowded with mountain peaks. The adjacent forest of
Sauvabellin is traditionally linked with the worship of Bel by
the Druids. Les Grandes Roches are about a mile and a
half on the road to Yverdon, affording a fine view across the
lake, including Mont Blanc, which is not visible from the Sig-
nal. The Blumer Institution for Delicate Children, at the
Chateau de Venues, on the Berne road, is worthy of attention.
The view is grand. The English Cemetery, two miles along
the Berne road, contains the remains of John Philip Kemble,
the tragedian. At a short distance is the garden he delighted to
cultivate, and the house where he died (Feb. 26, 1823).
Several excursions can be made from Lausanne by rail,
amongst others, vi^ Cassonsay, to the magnificent scenery of the
Val Orbe 5 or to all parts of the lake, from Ouchy.
•
Leaving Ouchy, the route becomes surpassingly beautiful,
the steamer passes Pally and Lutry, and we find ourselves in
front of the celebrated vineyards of Lavaux, which extend for
ten miles along the lake. An immense amount of labour has
been expended in rearing the innumerable low walls which
sustain the crumbling soil. Near Cully, which stands in the
midst of these vineyards, is the monument to Major Davel,
killed during the long struggle between Vaud and Berne. On
a terrace of rocks, near S. Saphorin, stands the old castle of
Gl^rolles ; and hard by a picturesque waterfall is formed by the
torrent of the Forestay. Above, on the height, is the Tour de
GrOUl^se, the remains of a stronghold, dating from the loth
century — once a refuge for the neighbouring villagers in times
of chronic strife and disturbance. The traveller will be
struck with the amount of skill and industry tVsal \ssa.^\5aN^
been necessary to construct a carnage T02A «cA T'?ii\^'»5 va.^^iSi
narrow limits between the mountains 2Lnd V3!aa\?i5Rft« Ora.Vs®^^'^*^
138 I-AKE OF GENEVA.
Gl^rolles^ and catching sight of Vevey, the slopes are more
gradual, the valley wider, and the whole landscape softer and
more cultivated.
VEVEY
(Grand Hotel Vevey),
(Pop. 7800), the representative of the old *Roman Fibiscum, is
the second town of the Canton Vaud ; clean, picturesque, and
with a climate free from extremes, either in summer or winter.
The town is situated at the end of a narrow valley, down which
the Veveyse rushes to the lake. Its exquisite views and plea- ^
sant walks in the neighbourhood attract a large number of
visitors. v
From Vevey may be seen Chillon, Clarens, Villeneuve, and
the mouth of the Rhone ; in the distance the Alps of the Valois,
with the Dent du Midi and Mont Catogne -, whilst on the oppo-
site shore of the lake are seen the rocks of Meillerie, with the
Dent d'Oche. The best point of view in the town is the Quai
Sina ; but some spots outside the town afford more extensive
prospects.
On the left of the landing-place is the chateau of M. Cou-
vreu, with its beautiful tropical garden, open free from 10 a.m.
to 12, on Thursdays, Fridays, and Sundays. At other times the
gardener expects a franc.
In the Ghurcli of St. Martin (15th century), amongst
the vineyards above the town, are the graves of Ludlow and
Broughton, two of the judges of Charles 1. 5 — it was Broughton
who read the sentence of death. In vain Charles II. demanded
their extradition j in this quiet town they ended their days. An
*' Indicateur des Montagues *' will be found here.
The English Church service takes place at St. Claire on
Sundays, at 1 1 a.m., and 3.30 p.m.
Rousseau's favourite inn, the •' Clef," has been transformed
into a cafe, with the same name.
Vevey is the centre of the Swiss wine-growing district 3 the
wine called Lavaux being its speciality. An ancient guild
known as '' L'Abbaye des Vignerons,'* exists here, whose func-
tion it is to promote the interests of the wine-growers, and ex-
cite competition by presenting prizes to the most successful.
After an extraordinary wine season, a grand festival is held,
known as La F6te des Vignerons. It last took place in l86j.
^^The Vintners* Ftte at Vevey,'* says a recent writer in ** All
the World Over^' ''is famous evety\«rYi«e,atAV)aavx^%\j\VvcL
VEVEY. IjQ
vogue, is a genuine relic of the old worship of Bacchus — a
deity long revered in this, a vine country par excellence,
'*The continuance of this f6te is characteristic of the con-
servative and mirth-loving Vaudois. It comes off every twelve
or fifteen years in the market-place of Vevey. A large plat-
form is raised, the square is gay with flags and triumphal arches,
and thronged with spectators — artisans, little peasant pro-
prietors by hundreds, and strangers from all quarters. The
music strikes up, and gives the signal for the grand allegorical
procession of the Four Seasons. But first comes a corps of
Swiss halberdiers in motley costume, the vintner guilds of Vevey
and la Pans, and their abbe carrying a gilt crosier. He opens
the proceedings with a speech, and the coronation of the two
most successful vintners.
" This little ceremony over, the procession begins. First
enters Spring, a young girl in the character of Pales, reclining
in a triumphal car. Children and shepherdesses dance around
her, haymakers, labourers, and Alpine cowherds sing their
Ranz des Vaches. Summer follows — a lady of riper years, im-
personating Ceres — in a car drawn by two large oxen, accom-
panied by children carrying beehives and other appropriate
fixtures. With Autumn comes the climax of excitement, as
Bacchus, the god of the vine, appears in a chariot drawn by
horses covered with tiger skins. This is the signal for wild
dances and wilder music, after the fashion of the ancients. He
is accompanied by his train, among which Silenus, mounted on
his ass, figures conspicuously. Winter ends the cortege, which
thus forms a complete series of illustrations of rural life. In
this, the cold season, the peasant's work is ended, and he returns
to his cottage hearth. So winter stands in their minds for
things domestic, and is pictured accordingly. The aged parents
lead the way, then come the young couple, bride and bride-
groom. Rustic dances by woodmen and huntsmen follow, and
the whole concludes with a grand patriotic hymn. The tenacity
of life shown by this remarkable f^te arises, no doubt, from its
being more than a mere recreation and show. It still breathes
the true spirit of the people, of whose labours and joys it is a
faithful picture." *
The environs of Vevey are replete with interest. Haute-
Ville, a mile and a half from the town, is an imposing struc-
ture, and afibrds beyond doubt the finest ^tos^cX m>5oifcXJkRNsg5J«*
♦ ''An tbt World Over." (T. Cook «c ^on:^ \a5i^> ^^^l V
140
LAKE OF GENEVA.
bourbood. Blonay, at a somewhat greater distance from the
town, is a romantic castle, which for eight centuries was the
residence of the most powerful and distinguished of the old
Vaudois families. History and tradition join in confirmation of
the spotless honour and renowned valour of the house of De
Blonay. When the aristocracy were swept away at the close of
the last century, the family was still held in local reverence. It
exists in the neighbouring French province of Chablais at this
day. The Pleiades (4000 feet) is visited for the view from
its summit, and also for the Sulphur Baths of L'Alliaz at the
base. La Tour de Peilz is a little village west of Vevey, with
an old castle built in 1239 by Amadeus IV., Duke of Savoy j
but its two round towers are of very uncertain and possibly far
earlier origin. Peilz means skin, and is said to refer to a certain
Crusading proprietor, who returned to find his chateau roofless,
and made for it a temporary roof of skins.
Most of the objects mentioned in the preceding paragraph
are visible from the steamer as we resume our course on the
lake. The vineyards again reappear, and become a conspicuous
feature of the landscape. In about a quarter of an hour we
arrive at Clarens.
Clarens is all poetry, and little else, and Byron must again
describe it to us, in the place which none would feel as if they
had visited, did they not read it here —
" Clarens ! sweet Clarens, birthplace of deep LiOve !
Thine air is the young breath of passionate thought ;
Thy trees take root in Love ; the snows above
The very glaciers have his colours caught,
And sunset into rose-hues sees them wrought
By rays which sleep there lovingly : the rocks,
The permanent crags, tell here of Love, who sought
In them a refuge from the worldly shocks
Which sdr and sting the soul with hope that woos, then mocks.
^ *Twas not for fiction chose Rousseau this spot,
Peopling it with affections ; but he found
It was the scene which passion must allot
To the mind*s purified beings ; 'twas the ground
Where early Love his Psyche's zone unbound^
And hallowed it virith loveliness ; *tis lone.
And wonderful, and deep, and hath a sound,
And sense, and sight of sweetness ; here the Rhone
Hath spread himself a couch, the Alps have rear'd a throne.*'
guet
Notice the clump of trees to the left known as the '* Bos-
de Julie/' the favourite resort ol " l.a'SlJ^oxw^Viafe^lQise."
CHILLON. J.J
Montreux (Langbien's Hotel Beau-Sejour au Lac),
the warm winter refuge of the invalid, Glion, Yernex,
and Yeytaux, embosomed in walnuts, successively appear in
sight, and near the latter is the renowned Castle of Ghillon.
This Castle, washed by the waters of the lake, which at this
point is over 300 feet in depth, was built in a.d. 830, and forti-
fied by the Dukes of Savoy about four centuries afterwards.
Apart from its historic interest, it is impressive from its solid
walls and towers, and its strangely isolated situation on a rock
connected with the bank by a wooden bridge. Over the entrance
is the inscription, " God bless all who come in and go out.*'
It well repays a visit to its feudal hall, bedrooms, etc., and the
rock-hewn dungeons beneath, in one of which thousands of
J^ws are said to have been sentenced to death, and forthwith
drowned in the lake. The beam where criminals were hung,
the torture-chamber, the oubliette, and other horrors, are shown.
But the dungeon rendered memorable by Lord Byron's " Pri-
soner of Chillon " is, of course, the chief point of interest.
<< Chillon ! thy prison is a holy place,
And thy sad floor an altar— for 'twas trod,
Until his very steps have left a trace
Worn, as if thy cold pavement were a sod.
By Bonnivard ! May none those marks efiace^
For they appeal from tyranny to God.*'
The tourist, when he treads the pavement worn down by
the feet of the prisoner, or touches the iron ring in the dungeon
by which he was bound to one of the pillars, must remember
that the subject of Lord Byron's poem is not to be received as
a record of the historical Bonnivard. A few facts may not be
uninteresting, nor need they necessarily spoil the charm of the
fiction.
Francois de Bonnivard was bom in 1496 at Seyssel. He
was educated at Turin, and at the age of sixteen received from
his uncle the rich Priory of St. Victor, and the lands attached
thereto. In 15 19 the Duke of Savoy attacked Geneva, and
Bonnivard, who was of liberal opinions, and opposed to feudal
oppression, sided with the Republic. He was captured, and
confined by the tyrannical Duke for two years in the Castle at
Grolee. No sooner was he released, than he again made a
strenuous effort to advance the principles of the Republic.
Again, in 1530, he fell into the hands of the Dukftoi ^^a^^*
and was confined for six years m flie C2LSkV\"fc dl ^StS^^Tw. ^xa-
ing this time the Cantons of Berne axxd^f^w5X%^«»vo\^^'S^^
{
JA2 LAKE OF GENEVA.
with the Republic of Greneva j and when at length the Bernese
took possession of the Canton of Vaud, they lost no time in
throwing open the doors of the Chllteau de Chillon, and releas-
ing Bonnivard. He returned to (reneva, fought bravely in the
cause of the Republic, and died in 1570 at tie age of seventy-
five. His £ne collection of books formed the foundation of the
public Library (p. 129).
" On the fact of Bonnivard's imprisonment here, and cer-
tain traditions of the residents in the vicinity. Lord Byron
founded his short narrative poem of ' The Prisoner of Chillpn.'
The additional circumstance of two of the brothers of Bonni-
vard having been imprisoned with him has no foundation, ex-
cept in the imagination of the poet. The description of their
sufferings and death, which forms the most affecting part of the
narrative, was probably suggested by Dante's Count Ugolino and
his two sons."
The earliest recorded prisoner was a dangerous Bishop of
Corbie, shut up here by Louis le Debonnair.
Near the Castle of Chillon a part of the plot of Rousseau's
celebrated " Nouvelle Heloise " is laid.
We DOW speedily arrive at Villeneuve, the ancient little
town at the head of the lake. Some of the steamers go on to
Bouveret.
SOUTHERN BANK.
Between Geneva and Bouveret diligences run to and fro daily
along the southern or Savoy side of the lake. Steamers run
twice daily to Bouveret in five and a half hours 5 four times
daily to Evian-les-Eaux, crossing thence to Ouchy (see local
time-tables).
Two miles from (Geneva is Cologny, between which and
the lake stands the Villa Diodati, where Lord Byron resided in
1 816, and composed the third canton of Childe Harolde and
Manfred. The hamlets of La Belotte (stat.), Bessinges, Vese-
nar, CoUonge, Bellerive (stat.), Anieres (stat.), and Hermance
(stat.), are in Genevan territory. Entering Chablais, a district
of Savoy, we pass the Savoyard Castles of Beauregard and De
Boigne, and the little village of Nernier, on the edge of the
water. From the point of Yvoire a deep bay recedes, on which
stands Tlionoil (nine miles by road from Geneva), the ancient
seat of the Dukes of Savoy.
Evian, or Evian-les-Eaux, \s a iashionable French
watering-place; iht mineral waters W\e a\iv^ ifc\Ki\«^AQsa \^
SOUTHERN BANK. I^o
gout> and various other complaints. A company, "under
English direction/* is engaged in develojping the attractions of
this charming neighbourhood. Several short excursions can be
made 5 for instance, to the fine ruined Castle of Allinges,
where S. Francis de Sales dwelt many years j to Laninge, or
to the Valley of the Dranse. The torrent of the Dranse widens
as it reaches the lake, and is crossed by a curious bridge of
twenty-four arches. Near the mouth of the river is the pretty
village of Amphion, with ferruginous waters.
Another pleasant expedition is to the old Castle of La
Ripaille, famous for its connection with the eccentric Victor
Amadeus VIII. of Savoy, successively duke, pope, and friar.
This ruin is seen from the steamer soon after passing Thonon.
To this monastery he withdrew for several years with six
companions, and founded the order of the Knight-errants of
St. Maurice. According to one tradition, they passed their
time in carousing, and thus gave rise to the French expression,
'^faire ripaille" or to make merry, very merry. According to
another, they led an exemplary life of abstinence, and the name
of the convent was derived simply from its situation on the
shore, or ripa.
It is now a farm, the church is a hayloft, the cemetery a
cultivated field. The park of oaks which Amadeus had laid out
in the form of a star was allowed to run wild. The vegetation
here is extremely rich. An enormous walnut-tree overshadows
the ruins ; its origin, according to folk-lore, was supernatural
indeed. The tree sprang from a walnut containing a diamond
brought hither by the Prince of Darkness himself, from the
shades below, and buried in the ground. At certain intervals it
was said to bear a crop of diamonds, but of late years the tree
appears to have given up this good habit. In the numerous
superstitions of Chablais and Vaud, hidden jewels and buried
gold and silver play a prominent part. The nobles, constantly
at war with Berne and Geneva, alternately conquered and con-
quering, would often find it a measure of prudence in such
precarious times to conceal their treasure. Valuables dug up
here from time to time prove this to have been their habit. At
Evian no landed property is ever sold without some special
stipulation as to reserved rights on possible treasure trove ; and
when, in building, excavations have to be made, a watch is
always set on the workmen.
The views across the lake from Ev\aa ate ncc^ i«ife« .
Passing on we see La Tour "RoTiAe^^ti!^^^'^^^^'^''^
lAA LAKE OF GENEVA,
of La Meillerie, famous for their supposed resemblance to
the Leucadian rock. They afford excellent stone for building
At one time they ran down straight to the sea^ and Evian and
S. Gingolph could only communicate by water. The rocks
were blasted by Napoleon, to get material for the Simplon
Road.
It is in this portion of the lake, where the waters are least
disturbed, that the fisheries are chiefly carried on. From hence
come those fascinating little boats with double sails, like wings,
that strike every traveller who sees them poised like butterflies
on the surface. Here, in Rousseau's story, the lover of H^loise
lodged, to be in sight of her dwelling-place on the opposite
shore.
Six miles further on is St. Gingolph, the border village
between Valais and Chablais, situated on both sides of a
ravine that separates the two countries. For long, the only
place of worship was on the Chablais side, so that people were
in Switzerland at home, and in Savoy when they ^went to
church.
Excursions from St. Gingolph are made to the Dent
d' Oclie (8000 feet), in four hours 5 up the Gorge of the
Morge, the frontier ravine just alluded to ; or by boat to the
Grotto of Viviers. Boats can be hired to cross the lake for ten
francs to Clarens, Montreux, Chillon, or Villeneuve, or for six
francs to Vevey. Three miles beyond St. Gingolph is Bou-
veret, at the head of the lake.
Besides the swift Rhone, cleaving "his way between
heights which appear as lovers who have parted,*' Lake Leman
receives about forty rivers and streams. The depth of the lake
varies from about 950 feet near the rocks of Meillerie, to 30 or
40 feet in the neighbourhood of Geneva. It covers an extent
of about ninety square miles.
The marvellous beauty of this delightful lake has won
encomiums from a host of writers. Mr. Laing says, *'The
snowy peak, the waterfall, the glacier, are but the wonders of
Switzerland J her beauty is in her lakes — ^the blue eyes of this
Alpine land. The most beautiful passage of scenery in Switzer-
land is, to my mind, the upper end of the Lake of Geneva,
from Vevey, or from Lausanne to Villeneuve." Again, " the
zaargin of the lake is carved out, and built up into terrace above
terrace of vineyards and Indian cotn i^\o\& \ \»\v\tLd this narrow
beft, grain crops, orchards, grass &e\ds, aai dy&^\.xi\sX.\x«e&Vas^
GENEVA TO CHAMOUNY. I^^
their zone ; higher still upon the bill side, pasture grass and
forest trees occupy the ground -, above rises a dense mass of
pine forest, broken by peaks of bare rocks shooting up, weather-
worn and white, through this dark-green mantle ; and, last of
all, the eternal snow piled up high against the deep blue sky 5
and all this glory of Nature, this varied majesty of mountain-
land, within one glance ! *' '* It is not surprising that this
water of Geneva has seen upon its banks," he adds, " the most
powerful minds of each succeeding generation, Calvin, Knox,
Voltaire, Gibbon, Rousseau, Madame de Stael, Byron, John
Kemble, have, with all their essential diversities and degrees of
intellectual powers, been united here in one common feeling of
the magnificence of the scenery round it. This land of alp and
lake is indeed a mountain-temple, reared for the human mind
on the dull unvaried plains of Europe.*'
It is from Geneva and the lake — especially that celebrated
view near Morges — ^that the traveller realizes the supremacy
of Mont Blanc, more than he can do even at Chamouny,
when in its immediate presence. No one should be content
with the scenery at the Geneva end of the lake, which is com-
paratively uninteresting. Its grandeur is only fully perceived
from Morges or Ouchy.
GENEVA TO CHAMOUNY.
(To Sallanches, 32 miles j to Chamouny, 50 miles.)
The journey from Geneva to Chamouny is along a good
carriage-road. The diligences take 10 hours. From Sallanches
(reached in 61 hours) the remainder of the journey may be
performed oa foot easily and pleasantly by good walkers.
Early application at the office is desirable to ensure seats.
The diligences of the Messageries Imperiales are arranged for
affording the best views of the country, the after-part being open j
and there are also two seats in front. When places are taken,
they must be described and entered in the register of the office,
and on the pay-bills of the conductor. This prevents all
grumbling and confusion, as parties can only take their allotted
places. Diligences start from Greneva three or four times daily j
the exact time must be previously ascertained at the Hotel or
Diligence Office (p. 124).
A pleasant suburban road from tlae l^e^ QiwMXet c^ Qf^oss^*^
leads to the large village of Cliene. On ^e fv^X.^^l^Q^'^ %^^fe«^>
1^6 GENEVA TO CHAMOUNY.
the Castle of Momex^ and the Jufa mountains are seen ; and on
tiie left the Voirons, • At the fiver Foron, the French (formerlir
Sayo7ard).territor)r is reached, the first village in which is Anne-
masse (Custom House)* The high conical mountain called the
Mdle (6128 ft.), here comes fairly into view, and forms a promi-
nent'object for miles. The Castle ^of Etrambiere is passed on
die right, at the foot of the Petit Saldve. The road follows the
valley of ihc Arve. This stream, as the banks abundantly
testify, IS sometimes a broad and furious torrent. The Menoge
livec is crossed by. a broad lofty bridge.' After paissing Naiigy,
the Ch&teau de Pierre, the property of an Englishman, is seen
on a sn^all fir-clad eminence. Contamines is passed on the
left, and the two ruined towers of the ancient castle of Faucigny
stand out conspicuously. The bold mountain scenery bound-
ing the Arve valley, now becomes very enjoyable.
Bonneville is one of the most considerable towns on the
road, though its population has much declined oflateyears. (From
this place there is a good road — 17 miles-^— traversed by diligence in
4 hours to Annecy, where the rail can be taken to Aix-les-Eaux.)
At the foot of the town, the Arve is crossed by a stone bridge -,
and on the river side, close bf, is a monument over ninety feet
in height, erected in honour of Rex Carolus Felix of Sardinia,
as an expression of gratitude for favours conferred on the town
by the execution of works to prevent inundations of the Arve.
To the summit of the Brezon or the Mole is a four hours*
excursion from Bonneville^
Through a fertile district between the M61e and Brezon, we
pass on to Yougy, wh^re the Giffre, from the Sixt Valley,
joins the Arve, and then to Sclonzier, by which lies the
romantic Reposoir Valley.
The village of CluseS) newly built since the fire of 1844,
is chiefly inhabited by watchmakers. Near this town, the
Brezon precipices seem almost to overshadow the route, and the
fertile valley seems to be closed in by the mountain. But the
road is continued through a narrow gorge. Beyond La Balme,
two small cannons are .planted, for the purpose of awakening
the echoes. The entrance to a grotto is seen on the side of the
rock to the left, which penetrates into the heart of the mountain
to the extent of 1800 feet. Mules wait here to take visitors to
the cavern. A couple of hours will be occupied if the visit is
undertaken. Passing Magland and on to St. Martin,
several dne cascades and waterfalls atttac\.2L\XeD?L\otLaii\!afe\s&-^
^e JSnest of these ^is the graceWl 'NanX. ^ Kx^tiaa.^ ^^^.^&xJ^^
GENEVA TO CHAMOUNY.
H7
1>es6tj however^ with specimen dealers^ cannon firers, and various
sorts of beggars. The rocks on the same side of. the road are
« exceedingly fine^ and the low £at'on the right show signs of the
.effects of the overflow of the Arve, to which the country is
-subject. At Sallanches, the diligence used' to terftiinate its
course^ and passengers were transferred to sm^ll carriages^
-beoaus&of the hilly and stony roads before them. Now there
is a new good road all the way^ but it is not so mtjsrestni^ a^
vthe old« The diligence used to come into Sallanches () mile)
to -allow the passengers to dine and return to St. Martin to
pursue the journey. From the bridge between the two' towns>
fine views of Mont Blanc are obtained. A well-known writer
has thus described the scene : —
** Mont Blanc, ai^d his. army of white-robed brethren^ rose
before us i|i the di^tance> glorious as the four-and-twenty elders
around the great white throne. The wonderful gradations of
colouring in Alpine landscape are not among the least of its
charms. How can I describe it? Imagine yourself standing
with me on' this projecting rock, overlooking a deep pin^ gor'ge,
through which flow the brawling waters of the Arve. On tne
other side of. this rise mountains whose heaving swells of
velvet-green cliffs and dark pines are fully made out and
coloured ^ behind this mountain rises another^ whose tints are
softened and shaded, and seem to be seen through a purplish
veil ; behind that rises another^ of a decided cloud-like purple ^
and in the next still the purple tint changes to rosy lilac ^ while
above all^ like another world up in the sky^ mingling its tints
with the passing clouds, sometimes obscured by them, and then
breaking out. between them, lie the glacier regions. These
glaciers, in the setting sun, look like rivers of light pouring down
from the clouds. Such was the scene, which I remember with
perfect distinctness as enchanting my attention on one point of
the road."
Sallanches, like most of the towns on the route now under
notice, has had its conflagration. It was on Good Friday, 1840,
when everybody was at church, that the fire broke out.
The road from Sallanches and St. Martin, still recommended
to pedestrians, continues along the picturesque banks of the
Arve. Gh6de is passed, near which is a fine waterfall. The
road then crosses a plain, which was a lake till choked u^ V^^
mud and stones in 1837, and ServO2i\STieiA.x«aL0ckR.^» \^ej^
Ouches is the first village in the vaWey ol C\i?LTE^w\xsi .
The new road is on the leit banVi ol \^ife M^e -^ \\. ct^^'siaa.
1^ GENEVA TO CHAMOUNY.
the Bon-Nant, and passes the Baths of St. Gervaix (5
miles). They are situated in the lovely Bon-Nant ravine, and
seem efficacious for numerous disorders of the stomach, nerves,
skin, etc. The village of St. Gervaix is a mile from the baths.
Excursions to the eastern part of Mont Blanc, or the ascent of
the great mountain itself, can be arranged from this place.
There is a cross route, 5 hours' walk, by the Col de Voza, with
grand views of Mont Blanc, etc., to Chamouny.
The T^te Noire (not the T^te Noire leading to Martigny)
is then skirted, and, after passing the Tunnel of ChUtelard and
Le Lac^ the old road is reached at the Hotel des Montets.
CHAMOUNY
(Hotel de TAngleterre and Hotel Royal)
is situated in a valley, about 28 miles in length from the
Col de Balme in the N.E., to the Col de Voza in the S.W.
Its north-western boundary is formed by the Aiguilles Rouges
and the Br^vent j whilst on the south-eastern side, Mont Blanc,
with seven glaciers streaming down towards the valley, fonn its
crowning glory. Along the entire length of the valley flows
the Arve, with a multitude of mountain-bom rivulets flowing
into it.
Chamouny is 3446 ft. above the sea. Its permanent popu-
lation is small, but in the season it is a crowded resort of
tourists, for whom the district offers attractions and excursions
innumerable. Chamouny was long an almost imknown spot.
The monks of St. Benedict came and settled here in the eleventh
century, and its occasional notice or inspection by Bishops and
Counts of Greneva is historically proved; but it was not till
Pococke and Wyndham visited the valley in 1741, and reported
on it to the Royal Society of London, that the locality began to
be generally known. From that time the fame of the valley
has spread, and the tide of eager sightseers has increased, till
now in every land Chamouny is justly celebrated for its glorious
prospect of the ** Monarch of Mountains " and its surroundings,
and for the absorbing interest of the excursions that may be
undertaken in the neighbourhood.
Applications for the services of any of the 200 intelligent
and efficient guides of Chamouny must be made at the office
of the Guide en Chef. There is an official tariff and a code of
ra/es as to the engagement ol gmdes, laxxks, etc,^ which must
de strictly carried out.
CHAMOUNY. jAQ
There is an English Church at Chamouny, where
services are celebrated during the season.
Loppe's collection of Alpine Pictures is worth seeing.
The collection is at the back of the Royal fjotel.
The following itinerary may be useful to the traveller : —
To visit Montanvert, the Mer de Glace, the Chapeau, and
the source of the Arveiron, is an excursion of at least 6 or 7
hours } or a day may be well spent over it.
To the Brevent and back, 7 to 8 hours.
To the Glacier des Bossons and back, about 4 hours.
To the Flegere and back, 5 hours.
To the Jardin and back, 10 to 12 hours. A good day's
work.
We will note a few of the principal excursions, and the
tourist must combine or select from these according to the time,
at his disposal.
Montanvert (6302 ft. above the sea level, or 2858 ft.
above Chamouny) needs no guide 3 anybody will point out the
path J and when once found, nobody need lose it. The ascent
can easily be done in two hours. On the way, a pine forest,
debris of avalanches, and other scenes usual in mountain paths,
will be passed, and by-and-by you will stand face to face with
the
Mer de Glace. "Imagine the ocean to have overflowed
the mountains in front of you, and to have descended, boiling,
foaming, dashing, bubbling, into the valley, thousands of feet
below. Imagine the waters in the height of their wild and
furious descent to have been miraculously stopped by the Divine
fiat, ' Be still,' and you see before you thousands of sharp and
tapering billows, mountain waves arisen and petrified before
they burst, snow-crested heights and chasms of the deep. Such
is the Mer de Glace. And then imagine the surroundings.
To your right, as you look up, are green, precipitous banks,
covered with shrubs and plants, and beyond rises Mont Blanc,
approached by walls of barren rock, where the snow can find
no settling-place. In front and to your left rises a barrier of
rocks, and mountains, and peaks that make you cold and dizzy
to gaze upon. There is the Aiguille du Dru, shooting up alone
like an arrow, 6000 feet above the spot on which you stand.
There are the dark, awful masses of vertical granite, on which
no blade of grass will grow, no bird will rest, no snow will
cleave, standing like evil spirits broo<5Ati% oN^t ^^ \Na»ssNs» ^
death, Tbea 'magine the sounds wVvvcVi. ^\Nfe X^^c^a \.o ""^s^^^ft-
j-0 CHAMOUNy.
scenes. There is a crash and a tumble, and thunder is echoing
all around, and a thousand weird voices seem chuckling at some
sad disaster. It is an avalanche that has fallen in the distance !
Listen again. You hear the moan and the strain of glaciers
grinding each other to powder in a deadly strife. Again, and
you hear the war and tumult of cataracts and torrents rushing
madly into the hollow vaults, and delighting to startle their
awful stillness ! "
Nearly 300 feet above the edge of this sea of ice is an inn,
where the night can be spent by those wishing to go forward
from this pomt in the morning. A rude hut once stood here,
where Forbes and Tyndal studied glacial phenomena. The
" Pierre des Anglais," commemorating the visit of Pococke and
Wyndham, is close by.
Everybody should cross the Mer de Glace 5 it is easy for
ladies, or even children, but should not be attempted without a
guide, as the steps cut in the ice may easily be missed, and the
traveller would as easily get astray and nervous. If intending to
return direct from Montanvert to Chamouny, the visitor should
first take a walk b}' the side of the glacier for some distance^
and so get a better idea of the wondrous scene.
The descent from Montanvert, after crossing the Mer de
Glace, is by the Mauvais Pas, cut in the side of the rocks,
which once was a formidable journey, but is now bereft of its
horrors from having an iron rail along it, to which the traveller
can hold, instead of having to take his chance upon the bare
rock -ledge. The green mound called the
Chapeau^ where some glorious views are obtained over
the Glacier des Bois, is next reached. Here there is a grotto
and an inn. Descending by the moraine, the visitor soon reaches
The Source of the Arvelron. The stream issues
from the Glacier des Bois, and passes through an arch of ice.
Sometimes this spot is very beautiful, and at others it has little
or no interest, and does not repay the trouble of leaving the
direct path to view it. In any case it is dangerous to stand
^mder the ice arch, and instances are recorded in which fatal
results have happened.
N.B. — Whatever else the traveller may omit, the round just
described, occupying about 7 hours, ought to be taken. Either
the Chapeau or the Source of the Arveiron, or both, may, of
course, be visited direct from Chamouny, without crossing the
Mer de Glace, if wished.
To visit The Jardin is a good do^'a ^otVltowLCJoa.-
MONT BIi,ANC.
151
mouny, evea by taking a mule to and from Mpntanvert.
From the inn at this place^ w&ere it is best to pass the previous
night, it is a seven hours' expedition, and the descent to Cha-
mouny may be effected in less than two hours more. This is
a very fine glacier excursion. Guides are required, but ladies
may readily undertake this expedition, and an idea will be
obtained of the glorious rock and glacier solitudes of Mont
£lanc, which no shorter excursion will afford. The Jardin
itself is an island of about seven acres, a grassy, flower-sprinkled
oasis of beauty in the midst of eternal snows and aiguilles.
The Flegdre, a plateau on the side of the Aiguilles Rouge,
(6500 ft.) is ascended for its fine view of Mont Blanc. This
excursion can be entirely accomplished on mules, about five
hours being reqqired for going and returning. There is a
chalet where refreshment, or, if required, beds can be obtained.
The Br6vent (8000 ft.) presents an almost identical
view towards the south-east with that from the Fleg^re. It
takes about four hours to walk up and somewhat less to
descend. Many visitors only go up as far as the inn at Plan
Praz (3 miles) which can be reached with mules. Here there
is a terrace 6772 feet above the sea, connected by a mountain
path (3 miles) with the F16gere. An hour's walking brings
you to the fpot of La Cheminie, where some fifty feet of nearly
vertical climbing must be done. There is a longer way round
for ladies. The view from the summit (8283 ft.) is a glorious
panorama of the Mont Blanc chain, and the hamlet-studded
valley of Chamouny from the Col de Balme to the Col de
Voza.
The Cascade du Dard, the Glacier des Bossons,
the Pavilion de Pierre Pointue, and many other attrac-
tions, can be visited by those who can make a lengthened sojourn
at Chamouny. Those not intending to return by Martigny
should, if possible, spend a day in exploring the Col de
Balme and Tete Noire; a mule path connects the two
(P* ^ jS)« Those wishing to get a slight notion of the ascent
of Mont Blanc, without encountering the dangerous portions,
may ascend to the Grand Mulets, and spend a night at the
inn.
MONT BLANC.
To realize in some degree the height of this "woivdsw^sJL
mountain^ compare the following h.e\^x^ ol ^:^i\2l\\i\svQKiSi^wa
in Europe*
152
CHAMOUNY.
Malvern Hills • . • .
1,444 ft-
Skiddaw
3*022 „
Macgillicuddy Reeks • •
3*404 »
Snowdon
3.57^ >>
Vesuvius
3»73i «
Caimgoriu
4*050 »
Ben Nevis
4 380 „
Grand St. Bernard (Convent)
8,040 „
Peak of Teneriffe
12,358 „
Jungfrau
13,725 «
Monte Rosa • . • •
i5»54o „
Mont Blanc • . • •
1578 1 „
It is curious how much higher Mont Blanc appears from
the Fl^g^re than it does from the valley of Chamouny, but
even there the actual peak of Mont Blanc does not so impress
the spectator with the glory and majesty of nature, as do the
marvellous peaks around it, varying from 12,000 to 13,000
feet.
The group of mountains known as Mont Blanc is an im-
mense mass of rock, stretching about 13 miles from S.W. to N.E.,
and about 5 or 6 miles in breadth. The enclosing valleys vary
from 3000 to 4000 feet above the sea level. The whole of this
mountain mass rises to at least a thousand feet above the line
of perpetual snow. Innumerable aiguilles or peaks shoot up
from this vast basis^ of varying heights, surrounding the mighty
monarch himself, who towers to a height of more than 12,000
feet above the level of Chamouny.
The scenery of Mont Blanc is a wonderful combination of
Alpine glories on the grandest scale. Lofty peaks, for ever
robed in untrodden snow, wide seas of ice, huge crevasses,
bright green glaciers, savage rocks, and pine forests (skirting
the borders of civilization) make up a tout ensemble truly mar-
vellous and impressive.
Dr. Paccard and the guide, James Balmat, were the first to
scale Mont Blanc in August, 1786. The celebrated philosopher,
Saussure made the ascent in the following year with several
assistants, and numerous scientific observations were made on
the summit. Since that date, the ascent has become increas-
ingly frequent 3 and guides and all necessary appliances are to
be found either at Chamouny or St. Gervais, for those who
>fee/ physically qualified for t\ie "andetUVvci^, ?xA ?c5ft willing to
XDeer the somewhat expensive outlay ttc^mte.^.
TOUR OF MONT BLANC. I jj
The Ascent of Mont Blanc occupies from 17 to 22 hours,
and the descent about 8 hours. This does not include
stoppages. About forty times a year the ascent is accom-
plished 5 favourable weather is necessary, and the advice of the
guides must be strictly adhered to. . It is usual to go on mules
to the Chalet de la Pierre Pointue, and then forward to
the Grands Mulcts (10,007 ft.) to spend the night j the
ascent to the summit (15,781 ft.) and return to the Grands
Mulcts occupies the second day, and the return to Chamouny
the third. The Grands Mulcts route unites on the Grand
Plateau with the route from St. Gervais. Visitors coming
from the latter place spend the night at a hut on the Aiguille
du Gouter. The view from the summit is far reaching but
indistinct.
The chief peaks of importance in the Mont Blanc group,
after the summit are the Grandes Jorasses, 13,800 5 Aiguille
Verte, 13,5405 Aiguille de Bionnassay, 13,3243 Les Droites,
13,3225 Aiguille de Tr^latete, 12,9005 Aiguille d'Argentiere,
12,7995 Mont Dolent, 12,566.
TOUR OF MONT BLANC.
(By Chamouny, Courmayeur, Aosta, and the Great St.
Bernard.)
Martigny to Chamouny (see p. 157).
Leaving Chamouny by the road, and passing the Glacier
des Bossons on the left, the traveller reaches the small, pret-
tily situated village of Les Ouches. Here the mule path is
taken leading to the Pavilion de Belle Vue above the Col
de Voza- The views of the Chamouny valley from this
point are very fine. Hence the path may be taken by Bionnassay
to the high road at Bionnay, but it is nearer to keep by Champel,
joining the high road at La Villette. This part of the route is
very charming, as the valley of Bionnassay is beautifully wooded,
and surrounded by mountains of every form and colour. Two
miles along the high road from La Villette brings the traveller
to Les Contamines, 18 miles from Chamouny. Here the
night is usually spent.
From Contamines, Mont Joli can be ascended in four or
five hours, and affords good views. Leaving the village to
resume the route, the visitor reaches tive '^\\%\\\xv-N\i^'d^^2c»x^^
of Notre Dame de la Gorge. Here lYie io«A Vet\s\\TiaL\ss>^^sA'^c>fc
path leads through a rocky, pme-Aa^ ^'dsXe, «cA ct^^s*^ "^^
154-
TOUR OF MONT BLANC
mountain torrent near the waterfall^ emerging on an eleyated
plaiii. Nant Borrant (4560 ft.) is next reached^ and then
the Chalet de la Balme (an inn). Crossing the Plalne
des DameSi where a conical heap of stones is said to be the
memorial of a lady who perished here in a snowstorm, the path
winds up to the Col du Bonhomme.
Hence the traveller may descend by the Col des Fours
to Mottet, or to the Alpine village of Chapiu.
From Chapiu, the visitor may proceed to Pre St. Didier by
the Little St. Bernard. In bad or doubtful weather this should
be preferred to going forward by the Col de la Seigne.
At Chapiu {^6 miles from Greneva) the night is usually
passed. The route to the Col de la Seigne is through
Mottet. From the summit of the Col de la Seigne are obtained
glorious views of the Mont Blanc precipices towering over
11,000 feet above the grandly elevated valley known as the
A116e Blanche.
From the Col to Courmayeur is a six hours' walk, a mingling
of snow and rock and pasture land. The Lac de Combal, the
Glacier de Miage, the majestic Glacier de Brenva with its huge
Moraine, the Chapelle du Glacier (with its hermit), and the
Baths of La Saxe are passed on the way.
[With guides from Contamines, Courmayeur may be reached
in one day by ascending direct from the former place to the
Pavilion of Trelat^te, traversing for some distance the Glacier
of Trelat^te (don't omit the rope, even if guides smile at
it), and then crossing the Col du Bonhomme (9204 ft.),
higher up than previously indicated. The Glacier de Lancettes
must then be crossed, and thus the Col de la Seigne reached
without passing through Chapiu and Mottet.]
Cournaayeur (56 miles from Chamouny), at an altitude
of 42 1 1 ft. above the sea, is in the summer a well visited little
Piedmontese watering place. Excursions can be made to the
Glacier de Brenva, to the Glacier de Miage, or to the
Cramont (9081 ft. above the sea), with fine scenery on the
route, and glorious views of Mont Blanc from the summit.
From the Mont de Saxe (7329 ft.) some good views are
obtained.
From Courmayeur tne traveller may reach Martigny by
the Col de Ferret, 38 miles, or to Aosta, 27 miles 5 and from
thence to Martigny by the Great St. Bernard, 47 miles. There
is also a less interesting route by tVve Co\ dfe\aL%ex^\\^(;i^89 ft.)
to St. Remy and the Great St. Betuaxd.
TOUR OF MONT BLANC. fme
The first of these routes, viz., Courmaveur to Martiguy by
the Col de Ferret, will take nearly fifteen hours' walking.
The Val de Ferret is a prolongation of the Allee Blanche 3 nume-
rous glaciers and huge mountain masses bound the valley. The
Col is 8176 ft., and forms the boundary between France, Italy,
and Switzerland) the view of Mont Peteret and other mighty
buttresses of Mont Blanc is very grand. The descent is by the
ch^ets of La Foliaz, Orsi^res, dnd Sembrancher to Martigny.
From Courmayeur to Aosta is a very attractive and interest-
ing journey. It can be traversed by diligence in five hours.
The first village of importance is Pvh St. Didier, on the
Doire.
From Pre St. Didier the traveller may visit the Little St.
Bernard, where is a column indicating the boundary between
France and Italy. Here there are very imposing views of the
Mont Blanc chain. Hence, passing a hospice similar to the
Great St. Bernard, a gradual descent brings to the Bourg St.
Maurice, from whence there is a diligence to Chamousset
on the Mont Cenis Railway.
The route to Aosta, after leaving Pr6 St. Didier, is by
Morgex, where the Col de la Serena route to the Great St. Ber-
nard branches off. The ruined castle of Chatelard and village
of La Salle are passed. Along a steep road above the foaming
waters of the Doire, the route lies by Avise, with its old tower,
and Liverogne, to Arvier, noted for its good wine, and possess-
ing a thirteenth century castle. Villetieuve is next reached,
the ihost picturesque portion of the valley, with the ruined
Chateau d* Argent overlooking the village. After passing one or
two chateaux, the Castle of Aosta is seen at the mouth of the
Val de Cogne.
Aosta, with a population of about 8000, is a beautifully
situated town of importance. The valley produces various
metals from its mines, marble from its quarries, and timber in
abundance from its vast pine forests. The town was anciently
named Augusta Praetoria Salassorum, after Augustus, who gar-
risoned it with 3000 Praetorian Guards. Amongst the Roman
remains still left are the town walls and towers, a fine
triumphal arch, the ruins of a basilica, a gateway, etc. The
cathedral has a curious portal, and some frescoes, mosaic work,
etc.
From Aosta to Ivrea (where the rail can be taken for Turia'^
is 42 miles, traversed by diligence in xime\io\a^^'^^&i\:«^^^^^i^s2^^
tillon. Bard (with the fortress tViat tieaiVj ««^^\. ^^^^^^'^^'^
grand march in 1800), Douna,St. MaTXm,?^!^^^'^'^'^^^^^'*''^^^^
156
AOSTA TO MARTIGNY.
A08TA TO MARTIGNY BY THE GREAT ST,
BERNARD.
This route is amongst picturesque and fertile scenery, by
Signaye to the defile of Gignod. Here the southern aspect of the
scenery diminishes. After passing ^troubles and St. Oyen,
cultivation begins to get very scarce, and St. Remy is reached,
the last Italian village. From St. Remy, about a two hours' walk
will bring the visitor to the noted Hospice of St. Bernard,
passing a small lake that is frozen nine months of the year^ and
a column marking the boundary between Italy and Switzerland.
The celebrated hospice is a stone edifice on the crest of the
pass, the highest winter habitation in Europe. The mean
temperature for. the summer is 48 deg. ; for the winter, 15 deg.
The institution is said to owe its origin to St. Bernard of Men-
thon in 962. Across the pass armies have several times marched.
It was used by the Romans a hundred years before the Christian
era ; and in the fearful struggles that closed last century several
hundred thousand soldiers, French and Austrian^ passed through
these sterile scenes.
The approach to St. Bernard suggested Longfellow's noble
poem " Excelsior." We welcome another pen to describe the
scenery here. "What a bewildering, what a sudden change!
Nothing but savage^ awful precipices of naked granite, snowy
fields, and verdureless wastes ! In every other place of the Alps
we have looked upon the snow in the remote distance, to be
dazzled with its shining effulgence — ourselves, meanwhile, in
the region of verdure and warmth. Here we march through a
horrid desert — not a leaf, not a blade of grass — over the deep
drifts of snow. And this is the road that Hannibal trod, and
Charlemagne, and Napoleon ! They were fit conquerors of
Rome, who could vanquish the sterner despotism of eternal
winter."
It is usual to stay the night in the hospice (813 1 ft.) j no
charge is made, but of course no one would avail himself of the
accommodation without contributing liberally to the institution.
Everybody has heard of the noble work accomplished by the
devoted monks and their faithful dogs in rescuing from death
in the snow those who would otherwise perish. A piano in
the room set apart for visitors was presented by the Prince of
fVaJes.
The Morgue will be seen V\ic)cv mVex^^X. \i^ \kose who
indulge In visiting chambers oi lioitoxs. (C^Yv\sV\^^^^^^\«iX^
CHAMOUNY TO MARTIGNY. 1 C7
the world-famed hospice is deemed sufficient, as the Brethren
on the Mount take an interest in giving all particulars of the
place.) •
From the Great St. Bernard to Martigny is through the
desolate Vall6e des Morts, and across the Dranse, and past the
old Morgue, to the elevated pasture called the Plan de Proz.
Here the traveller reaches the carriage road at the solitary inn
known as the Cantine de Proz.
Mont Velan (12,057 ft), seen to the east of St. Bernard, can
be ascended from this point.
From the Cantine the new rock-hewn road leads, through
defile and forest, to Bourg St. Pierre, where there is an old
nth century church. Lid des, Orsieres, with its ancient
tower, Sembrancher, with its ruined castles, and some other
small places, are passed, and then Martigny is reached. From
the hospice, 29 miles. A coach runs between Martigny and
Bourg St. Pierre.
CHAMOUNY TO MARTIGNY BY THE T^TE
NOIRE.
(23 miles. Time, about 9 hours.)
There are three routes connecting the Rhone Valley with
the Valley of Chamouny — i. Martigny to Chamouny by the
T^te Noire ; 2. Vernayaz to Chamouny by Triquent, Salvan,
etc. (see p. 121) ; 3. Martigny to Chamouny by the Col de
Balme.
Except for its one grand, incomparable view of Mont Blanc
and the Valley of Chamouny (see p. ij9), the Col de Balme
route is unequal to the other two in general interest.
Leaving Chamouny for the Tete Noire route, the Arve is
soon crossed near the village of Les Praz. The source of the
Arveiron (see p. ijo), in the Glacier des Bois, is left on the right,
and then, passing over by Les Tines, Lavancher, La Joux (on
the opposite bank), Les lies, and Grasonet, Argentifere is
reached, 2i miles from Chamouny.
At Argenti^re the grand glacier of the same name is seen
stretching down towards the valley, with the Aiguille du Char-
donnet, 12,500 feet high, on one side, and the Aiguille Verte, a
thousand feet higher still, on the other.
Here the route by Tour and t\\e Co\ dfe'^^taa ^«xn^& ^»
the right (p. ijp.)
I^ CHAMOUNY TO MARTIONY.
The path to the left passes through the savage gfen ai Les
MontetSy and by the village of Trelechamp to uie Cd des
MontetSy at a height of 4819 feet. A cross shows the highest
point. From the Col the path leads on amidst frequent tiraces
of glacier and avalanche^ and varied combination^ of rook aiid
anoWf and wood and water, past Poyaz, with its romanttc Water-
fall (i franc), and then besicte the £au Noire to ValorCine.'
This village of ch&Iets, with a popolatioo tmdef^oo^ lalbe
largest in the vallej. It has walls tp-keep o^iia ^^nattaral
enemies*' the avalanches.
From Valorcine, past the fine water&ll- of the Barb6tine
(i franc), near its junction with the £^u Nodre, and amoiigst
so^iery increasingly grand, the Hotel Barberine is reached, and
soon afterwards the Hotel Royal du Chatekrd. •■*
Here the route by Triqvient and Salvan to Vemayaz diverges
(see p. 122).
Discarding the old Mauvais Pas on the left, the roate tt>
Martigny leads through the rocks of the Tfete Noire. The
highest point of the T^te Noire is some, distance to the south of
the pass, being 6600 feet above th6 sea l^vel. The Hotel near
the pass is over 4000 feet above the sea leveL The Bel-Oiseau,
Dent de Hordes, and Grand Moveran, are conspicuous peaks
in the vicinity. There is a path from the hotel by which the
grand view from the Col de Balme may be combined with the
journey by the T^te Noire route.
The general character of the scenery in this portion of the
excursion is well described in the following extract from*'' Swiss
Pictures :" —
•' Mountains lofty and precipitous, black, jagged rocks, roar-
ing torrents, dark, gloomy ravines, solemn pine-woods, between
whose columnar trunks the path winds as through the aisles of
a vast cathedral ; yet, withal, an exhaustless abundance of ex-
quisitely-tinted flowers, delicate ferns, slopes on which the wild
strawberry blushes, and hides beneath the rich green leaves, and
on all sides a profusion of verdure, which softens down the
ruggedness of tiie mountain forms, yet leaves their grandeur
undiminished Here are vast heights above, and vast depths
below, villages hanging to the mountain sides, green pasturages,
winding paths, chalets dotting the slopes, lovely meadows
enamelled with flowers, dark, immeasurable ravines, colossal,
overhanging walls and bastions of rock, snow-peaks rising into
the heavens over all,"
Leaving the Hotel de la Tfete l^ovte, ^<e ^oteaX. dl "WnssoxV^
CHAMOUNY TO MARTIGNY. I rA
entered^ with the river of the^i^^en^^ dfishing onward below
to join the Eati Noire. * At fiie yillage of Trient (Hotel du
Glaciei; de Trient) the Col de Balme route is reached.
From Trient the road ascends to the Col de la.FOrclaz.
or Col de Trient (5020 feet}. In descending tOwafds Mar-
tigny, the Valley of the Rhone as far as Sion is seen'spftad Otit
like a beautiful picture* The scene is described by on^ tiiaveller
as '' one of those flat Swiss valfeys, green as a velvet carpet>
studded with buildings and villages that look like dots in die
distance, and embraced on all sides by magnificent mounifains,
of which those nearest in the prospect were distinctly madeout^
with their rocks, pine-trees^ and foliage. The next in the re-
ceding distance were fainter^ and of a purplish green;' the
next of a vivid purple ; the next lilac ; while far in the fading
view the crystal summits and glaciers of the Oberland Alps
rose like an exhalation. ••...The Simplon road could be seen
dividing the valley like an arrow."
. Still descending amongst forests and pastures, ^nd orchards
rich with fruity the traveller soon reaches Martigny-le-boutg, and
then Martigny (see p. 122).
FROM CHAMOUNY TO MARTIGNY BY THE
COL DE BALME.
As far as Argentiere, and from Trient forward^ this route is
identical with the last (p. i J7)*: At Argentiere leave the T^te
Noire route, and proceed to La Tour (Hotel du Rivage), where
the carriage-road terminates. Leaving Tour, and its beautiful
glacier, and passing the landmark known as the Homme de
Pierre, and still ascending beside the rushing Arve, the inn is
reach^ on the Col de Balme. Hence there is a grand pro-
spect of the Mont £lanc range, with aiguilles, glaciers, etc.
Opposite to them are seen the Aiguilles Rouges, Br^vent, etc.
Turning in the direction of Martigny are seen the mountains of
Valais and the Bernese Oberland.
From the Col the path leads over sloping pastures, thea
through the Forest of Magnin, much injured by avalanches, and
then through more meadows to Trient, where the T^te Noire
route is again joined.
There is a fine mountain footpath connecting t3\& Cc^^. ^
Balme with the T^te Noire, which afEotda a AfiX\^\Sxii ^"5^5^ >»-
dear weath&c (p, ij8).
|60 MARTIGNY TO ZERMATT.
MARTIGNY TO ZERMATT
By railway to Sierre. Diligence thence to Visp (p. 77).
At Visp horses can be hired for the first nine miles up the
Visp Thai to St. Niklaus. From that place there is a carriage-
road (13 miles) to Zermatt.
The whole distance can be easily managed in ten to twelve
hours by those who can shoulder their knapsacks^ and march on,
independent of all conveyances.
The route lies now on one side and now on the other of the
river Visp, rushing along a richly-wooded mountain gorge. All
the way to Zermatt, peaks and glaciers, rocks, and torrents^ and
waterfalls, in varying combinations, make the journey a very
attractive one. It is year by year becoming increasingly popu-
lar. The inhabitants of this lovely valley are, however, a
poverty-stricken and dirty race, very much afflicted with goitre.
The path leads at first along the right bank of the Visp,
between hills clad with flowers, and shrubs, and trellised vines.
At Neubriicke the river is crossed, and the left bank pursued
to Stalden (5 miles). Fine views abound here. The town
is prettily situated at the junction of the Gorner Visp and Saaser
Visp, both being streams from the glaciers of Monte Rosa.
The bold dividing ridge between the two valleys consists of the
Mischabelhorn, Balferinhom, etc.
Leaving the Saas Thai on the left, the right bank of the
Corner Visp is followed into the Nicolai Thai. The Weiss-
horn comes into view, and the Jungbach, Riedbach, and other
waterfalls, are passed. A forest path conducts to another bridge
across the Visp, and shortly afterwards St. Niklaus is reached.
St- Niklaus (Grand Hotel), charmingly situated on a gentle
slope, 3819 feet above the sea level, is a good half-way resting-
place for those who wish to break the journey. A night's rest
here is more likely to be healthful and refreshing than at Vis-
pach or elsewhere in the malarious Rhone Valley. Numerous
excursions and expeditions can be arranged from St. Niklaus by
those who can spare time. There is in the village a church
whose metallic steeple is seen for miles shining like silver.
The Grand Hotel is commodious and comfortable.
Leaving St. Niklaus by the carriage-road which begins here,
the valley again narrows, and its mountain boundaries increase
in size. Frequent waterfalls dash down from the western preci-
pices / the road crosses the V\sp, i^^iSiSe^ Vi^ V«\%e reminders of
^he i8jj earthquake^ amongst woodYaiv^swL^^^^xa^&A^'^^ay^ii^
ZERMATT. l6i
Before reaching this spot> the Little Mont Cervin and fireithom
come into sight.
Randa is nearly 5000 feet above the sea level. On the
opposite side of the valley the Biesgletscher, an offshoot of
the Weisshomgletscher, protrudes through a mountain gap;
and from its precipitous mass a tributary torrent rushes to the
Visp. Parts of ihis glacier have occasionally broken off, spread-
ing terror and destruction around. An immense portion fell in
1 8 19, when 118 buildings in Randa were destroyed, and the
snow and broken ice lay in some parts of the village several feet
in depth.
East of Randa is the Grabengletscher, under the Graben-
hom, which is the highest peak of the Mischabelhorner^ being
nearly 15,000 feet.
In about an hour from leaving Randa, Tasch is reached.
The route is still upward, till, on crossing a rocky ridge, the
first view of the Matterhorn is obtained, stupendous and
overwhelming in its isolated majesty. By the Spiessbrucke, and
one or two other bridges, the road crosses and recrosses, till at
length the defile opens^ and the rich pastoral valley of Zermatt
lies full in view.
The quaint little village of Zermatt (pop., 450), overtopped
by its hotels, is situated in the midst of woods and pastures, in
a mountain-girdled valley, nearly 5500 feet above the level of
the sea. The valley and adjacent heights are rich in beautiful
and varied wild flowers, interesting mineral specimens, butter-
flies, insects, etc. Three glaciers feed the torrent of the Visp
as it rushes past the village 5 these are the Gomer from Monte
Rosa, the Findelen from the Strahlhorn, and the Z'mutt from
the Matterhorn. In the surrounding scenery the artist will find
abundant subjects for his pencil.
In the churchyard of Zermatt are the graves of Mr. Hadow,
the Rev. Charles Hudson, and the guide, Michael Croz, who
perished on the Matterhorn, in 1855. The body of Lord
Francis Douglas who fell with them, was never found. Its
whereabouts remains an awful secret of that mysterious moun-
tain.
The neighbourhood of Zermatt contains so much that is of
absorbing interest, that a visit of a day or two only suffices for
a glimpse at a few of the chief attractions.
w
1 52 ZERMATT.
THE RIFFELBERQ AND QORNER QRAT.
This is undertaken by most visitors to Zennatt even if time
allows of nothing else being attempted. The route is by the
first bridge across the Visp beyond the village, past the little
church of Winkelmatten, and then up a steep path through the
pine woods. From the openings between the trees the toot of
the Gromer Glacier is seen, and the fine waterfall of the Visp
rushing out from its icy cradle. Passing the chilet oil the
Augstkummenmatt, the pine woods are left behind^ some bare
slopes of short. grass are crossed, and two hours of good walk-
ing from Zermatt brings the visitqr to the broad terrace of the
mountain upon which stands the Riffel Hotel (8000 ft)
This is truly a glorious spot. In front, separated only by the
deep valley in which lie the Gorner and Furggen glacier, rises
the majestic Matterhom, a silent, solitary pinnacle of bare rock,
5,000 feet from base to summit, enthroned upon a pedestal of
snow and ice, which is itself 10,000 feet above the ocean level,
standing aloof and seeming to frown defiance on its fellows
which lie grouped on every side. It is well to behold this
scene, if possible, when the rosy glow of sunrise pervades it
with an intense liquid light, revealing its furrowed sides, its
seams of snow, its overhanging brow, its ice-bound feet, its
treacherous chasms, and its awful precipices, and yet softening
its asperity into a loveliness that holds the gazer spell-bound.
Two hours* ascent from the Riffel Hotel, brings the visitor
two thousand feet higher to the Corner Grat. This is one
of the very few spots in the Alps where one can obtain an eleva-
tion of over 10,000 feet without the slightest semblance of a
difficulty. The path is good and well-defined the whole way,
and the panorama quite unsurpassed. It is remarkable from
the fact that there is an unbroken range of magnificent snow
peaks on every side. There is not a single break in the chain.
It is an isolated, rocky peak that seems formed by nature to
enable one to survey at leisure the marvellous scene around.
The huge Gomer Glacier winds round its base at a dizzy depth
below ; beyond are the snows of that glorious range beginning
with Monte Rosa (which seems within a stone's throw) and
ending with the Matterhorn. Then the central range of the
Pennine Alps with the stupendous summits of the Dent
Blanche, the Gabelhom, the Rothhom, and the Weisshom all
Jinked together in one vast cYiaitv ol stvo^ ^\A Krr.. Next, far
awajr beyond the Rhone VaWey, some ^v^xasiV^eiiJs&^V^Jiaa^^-
THE HORNLI, 163
nese Oberland ; and again to the right, the group of the Mis-
chabelhorner, the Alphubel, the Strahlhorn, and the Stockhorn,
which last brings us round again to the snows of the Cima
di Jazi, and the Weisthor Pass, which flanks Monte Rosa on
the east. Between these mighty peaks h'e innumerable glaciers,
notably the vast sea of ice formed of the Gromer, the Theodule,
and the Furggen glaciers which lies like a map below 3 its
moraines, its snow slopes, and its countless crevasses revealed
at a single glance.
F. B. Zincke, in his *^ Month in Switzerland/' thus describes
the scene from the Gomer Grat —
" Here you have what is said to be the finest Alpine view in
Europe. You are standing on a central eminence of rock in,
as far as you can see, a surrounding world of ice and snow.
On the left is the Cima di Jazi, which you are told commands
a good view into Italy. Just before you, as you look across
the glacier, which lies in a deep, broad ravine at your feet, rise
the jagged summits of Monte Rosa with, at this season, much
of the black rock shining through their caps and robes of snow.
Next the Lyskamm, somewhat in the background 5 then Cas-
tor and Pollux, immaculate snow without protruding rock 3
next the Breithom, then the naked gneiss of the Matterhom,
a prince among peaks, too precipitous for snow to rest on in
the late summer, looking like a Titanic Lycian tomb (such as
you may see in the plates of * Fellowe's Asia Minor*), placed on
the top of a Titanic rectangular shaft of rock, ^ve thousand
feet high. Beyond, and completing the circle of the panorama,
come the Dent Blanche, the Gabelhorn, the Rothhorn, the
Weisshorn, over the valley of Zermatt, the Ober Rothhorn, and
the Allaleinhom, which brings your eye round again to the
Cima di Jazi.*'
From the Gomer Grat the visitor may return by the
Guggli, an eminence with a fine view, but less striking than
that just described. Hence a path leading beside the Finde-
len Glacier may be followed back to Zermatt. Or another path
may be taken from the Guggli to the Riffel Hotel, and thence
a descent effected to the foot of the Grorner Glacier, an inte-
resting and charming spot where the glacial encroachment is
very evident.
THE HORNLI
is the first great step in the ascent oi ^^ ^^^XXri^w^** ''?^^
should be visited by ail who desire a \ieatet nSstw <:S^ '^^ ^^^^
1 54 ZERMATT.
moantain without attempting to scale it. The route is to the
right of the Gromer Glacier, and along the base of the Matter-
horn to the mountain lake called the Schwarz-See, where there is
a fine view of the Zermatt Valley and its surroundings. Horses
can be ridden to this point. Another hour's upward climb
brings the traveller to the Homli (9492 ft.).
The /iew of the Matterhom from this point is amazingly
grand. The whole eastern face is close in front, and the trea-
cherous northern face is also in view. Down those awful
precipices the unfortunate victims of the first ascent fell a dis-
tance of 4000 feet to the glacier which lies on the right. From
one's very feet stretches away the wonderful plateau of ice
and snow constituting the Furggen and Theodule glaciers.
The ridge on which one stands is a mere arete in parts, perpen-
dicular on one side, and falling abruptly on the other, many
thousand feet to the Zermatt Glacier and the pine woods at its
foot. Over the ridge the wind sweeps with icy breath, and a
scene of desolation is around. Rain, and sun, and frost have
bared, and bleached, and riven the barren crags upon which one
stands. One glance takes in the green pastures of Zermatt,
5000 feet below 5 turning, the visitor sees the topmost pinnacle
of the Matterhorn, jooo feet above. The ridge of Homli
affords a wild and wondrous scene of mingled awe and loveli-
ness, which should be seen by all visitors to Zermatt possessing
tolerably stout legs and lungs, but having no ambition to
measure their strength with the High Alps.
The return to Zermatt can be varied by descending to the
foot of the Zermatt Glacier, and passing along the Zermatt
Valley. Beautiful and interesting scenery will reward the
extra exertion.
THE CIMA Dl JAZL
This is a mountain of 1.3,000 ft. in height, which can be
reached without danger or difficulty, in about 5 hours, from the
Riffelberg. The view is very grand, including the Itr.lian lakes,
the Tyrol, the Pennine and Bernese Alps, etc.
MONTE ROSA.
The ascent of this mountain is arduous and difficult. It
was first accomplished by Taugwald, in 1849. "-^^ ^^^7 vast-
ness, or rather its concentrated massiveness, unbroken by peaks
of proportionate size, makes it seeni\ess\o1tj ^tiaax\\.x«!!!5q v^-.^
ENVIRONS OF ZERMATT. j5^
and its immediate union on either side with a range of sharper
snowy summits approaching its own elevation tends still further
to prevent a just appreciation of its true character at the first
glance."
The five highest peaks of Monte Rosa are arrayed in a
connected ridge some 2 miles in length, in north to south. This
ridge is crossed at the centre by a ridge of lower summits run-
ning east and west. At the point of union is the Signalkuppe^
14,964 ft., the most conspicuous of the peaks from the Italian
side. North of this is the Zumsteinspitze, 15,004 ft. A little
further north, and connected by a ridge frowning over one of the
deepest and most awful of Alpine abysses, is the Hochste-
spitze 3 the true Monte Rosa, presenting from its summit a
wondrous view of mountain peaks. The Hochstespitze, or
Gornerhom, is *'a sharp, rocky obelisk," 15,217 ft. in height.
Still further north is the Nordende, 15,132 ft.
South of the central point is the Parrotspitze, I4,577 ^^'^
and four other peaks, ranging from 13,800 to 14,200 ft.
The
EXCURSIONS AND EXPEDITIONS
that can be made from Zermatt are too numerous to be fully
detailed. Tourists who shrink from danger in any form, and
even wish to avoid difficulty or over-exertion, will find no lack
of charming and interesting walks to occupy a prolonged
stay. For those possessing mountaineering ambition and the
requisite physical qualifications, there are no end of peaks and
passes. Many of these require more than ordinary experience
and skill in Alpine adventure 3 and none will, of course, be
undertaken without making proper inquiries and procuring
good guides. We simply enumerate a few of these expe-
ditions : —
The Matterhorn, 14,889 ft., was first scaled, in 1865, by
Mr. Whymper, the guide Taugwald, Lord Francis Douglas^
Mr. Hadow, Rev. Chas. Hudson, and the guide Croz. The
four latter lost their lives in commencing the descent.
The Breithorn, 13,685 ft., is reached by crossing the
snow from the Col on the S. Theodule route (p. 169).
The TriftjochL Pass, 11,614 ft-* a gap between the (xabel-
horn and the Trifthom, leading to the Val d'Annivlets,
The Col de la Dent BlancVie, ?i xstt^cfc^/s^-^^A^^^^
above the sea level} also a route to tJieNsX ^ KxixivnsJ^*
The Weissthor Pass^ 10,000 ix.., xo ^^ca^^'^^*
jgg ZERMATT TO VOGOONA.
The Mettelhorn, ii,i88 ft., with good guides, is <me of
the less difficult ascents. No similar scene of ice and pre-
cipitous mountain can be witnessed with equal ease on anj
known mountain.
The Lyskamm, 14)889 ft., was once considered the sum-
mit of Monte Rosa.
The Gabelhorn, i3»3^3 ^t-
The Weisshorn, 141804 ft.
The Mischabelhorn, 14,935 ft-> the highest mountun
entirely in Switzerland.
The Adler Pass, 12,461 ft., and other passes to the Saas
Vclley.
The Silber Pass, 14,040 ft. (passing nine of the Monte
Rosa peaks), and other passes into Italy.
In the inns of Zermatt will be seen the regular tariff of
charges for guides, for the various excur^ons and expeditions
in the vicinity.
ZERMATT TO VOGOGNA ON THE SIMPLON.
To effect this route without attempting any of the more
difficult passes above-mentioned, the tourist must reti ace his
steps to Stalden. From thence the path leads along the beau-
tiful defile known as the Saas Thai. Glaciers look down from
the gaps on the western side, and many a wayside cross tells of
the avalanche that has brought death and desolation into the
lovely valley. The tourist should turn from time to time to see
the prospect down the valley, with the Bietschhom closing the
view. In four hours Saas is reached, the chief place in the
valley — a good place to sojourn at, and becoming increasingly
frequented. It stands on a beautiful green plain, with moun-
tains all round.
" The contrast between Saas and Zermatt," says Zincke, in
his *' Month in Switzerland,** ** is very great. At Zermatt the
valley ends with great emphasis in a grand amphitheatre of
mountains and snowy peaks. At Saas it seems suddenly brought
to a close, without any object of interest to look upon. With
the mind full of Zermatt, Saas appears but a lame and impo-
tent conclusion. The village, however, is very far indeed from
being at the head of the valley. That is to be found at the
Monte Moro, 5 hours farther on ; and as it includes the Allnlein
Glacier, the grand scenery oi UtA MaUrci2LxVL^fee.«ckALQlthfi Monte
Moro Itself, it has enougli to satisiy eNeii ^t^^\. e^k^^^rXaJLvsose—
such as one has, of course, coimtig itonx Ti^xYaaxxr
ZERMATT TO VOGOGNA.
167
From Saas many mountain and glacier expeditions can be
undertaken. Those whose time is limited may make a very
enjoyable trip of about 3 hours to F6e, a charming little village,
in a lovely green hollow, headed by a vast glacier. By allowing
half a day, the Gletscher Alp, beyond F^e, may be reached.
This is a beautiful spot, bright with rich grass and flowers,
almost encircled by the sea of ice.
At Saas a guide for Macugnagna should be engaged. Post-
chaises can be procured for ladies. Horses can only be taken
to Thaliboden, about half an hour from the summit of the
pas^.
Leaving Saas, the road passes the waterfall from the Roth-
platt Glacier, and under the well- wooded Mittaghorn to Almagel.
Meigeren is next reached, and then the bridle-path winds
among rocks and stones, with the remarkable AUalein
Glacier apparently closing the valley in front. To pass this
glacier; the path zigzags up the mountain side, and then skirts
the Mattmark See. Here there is an inn (3 hours from
Saas), where those should pass the night who wish to enjoy
the early morning view from Monte Moro. The Schwarzen-
berg Glacier is close by.
Still ascending from Mattmark, the chalets of Distel are
reached in half an hour, where the usual light refreshments
can be obtained. The Seewinen Glacier is just opposite.
The summit of the pass of Monte Moro is reached in an
hour from Distel. The name (like Allalein, Mattmark, and
some other names in the neighbourhood) is of Moorish origin,
and carries us back some eight centuries, when with the Great
St. Bernard and the Engadine it was one of the three great
passes into Italy, and was held by the Moors, who levied black
mail on all comers. Fragments of ancient pavement are seen
near the summit. The immediate approach from the Swiss side
is very sterile and desolate, past the icy basin, into which the
Thaliboden Glacier descends from the Joderhorn.
By ascending the rocks near the cross on the summit, a
really sublime prospect of Monte Rosa is beheld to the south,
whilst turning to the north the Saas Valley is seen, with its
picturesque surroundings. A more extensive view is obtained
Irom the adjacent Joderlxom, including some of the Southern
Alps and the Italian plains.
The descent to Macugnagna will take about four hours.
The route is very steep 5 first over a swonn^<^^» ^'scl ^ss^cs^^si^
lones and rocks, and then over s\oigiva^ ^xeeo. ^^%\s»^'s»,^>5^
1 68 ZERMATT TO VOGOGNA.
glorious views of the Macugnagna Valley and Monte Rosa
beyond.
Mules can sometimes be procured at Macugnagna for the
remainder of the journey to Vogogna 5 or they may have to be
sent for from Ponte Grande, imless the traveller inclines to walk
on.
Macugnagna is situated between its glacier and thegreea
pastures, 4400 feet above the sea levels and is girded by majestic
mountains. In exploring the glacier, and enjoying the incom-
parable views of Monte Rosa, whose five principal peaks (p.
165) are all in sights a day may be well spent. At any rate, the
pine-clad eminence, known as the Belvedere — an ancient
moraine, should be visited without fail. There is no grander
view in the locality. If possible, proceed also, with a guide, for
a considerable distance on to the glacier, to where a cascade
leaps down into an icy abyss. The surrounding scene from
this point is strangely grand and impressive. From the margin
of the sea of ice the rocks of the central chain of Monte Rosa
tower proudly up to the height of 7000 or 8000 feet, with
connecting ridges to the Cima del Pizzo and Pizzo Bianco on
one side, and to the Cima di Jazi and Monte Moro on the
other.
Fillar, under the old Weissthor Pass, to the north of the
glacier } and PedriolO, to the south of the glacier, where
immense blocks (one specimen being joo feet in girth) have
come down from Pizzo Bianco, may be included in a day's round
with the previously mentioned points of view.
From Macugnagna, the route to the Simplon conducts by
Borca, Pestarena (with its mines of gold, silver, and copper), and
Campiole, to the rocky barrier of the Morgen, through a narrow
gorge in which the Anza forces its way. Here the Val Macug-
nagna is left, and with it, for the most part, the German lan-
guage 3 henceforward Italian.
The traveller now enters the lovely Val Anzasca, com-
bining in its scenery both Swiss and Italian characteristics. At
Ceppo Morelli, the carriage toad commences. Notice the
women hereabouts doing men's work, in men*s unmention-
ables. Fanzone is next passed — a good stopping- place for those
who can spare time for leisurely enjoyment of this delightful
valley. The same remark applies to the next town, Ponte
Grande, which is the principal place in the Val Anzasca, with
£ood hotel accommodation and travelling facilities. Cdstigilione
is next reached ^ and then Pie di Mulera. "^^t^^^nx^^ w^
ZERMATT TO CHATILLON. 169
the richly-fertile and well-wooded valley, with Monte Rosa
closing the scene, is very fine 5 there is also a grand prospect of
the Val d*Ossola below in the other direction. The road now
runs direct to the Simplon, near Vogogna (p. 170).
ZB RMATT TO CHATILLON.
(By the S. Theodule Pass.)
This is the most frequented of Alpine Glacier Passes ; it is
accomplished by many ladies with tolerable ease. The distance
is 29 miles, requiring from 12 to 14 hours' walking; or horses
may be taken to the foot of the glacier, and again forward from
the Fourneaux, in descending the southern side. It is necessary
to start at dawn in order to reach the two hours' passage across
the snow at the summit before it has softened under tiie influ-
ence of the sun's rays.
From Zermatt the route lies by Zmutt and along the side
of the Gorner Glacier ; from the Riff el (rather shorter), the path
is across the glacier just named. In about a couple of hours,
vegetation is left behind, and a pathless, rocky tract is crossed to
the foot of the glacier, where those who have ridden so far must
dismount.
The Glacier has few crevasses 5 but still the neglect of
the rope, in such expeditions, is foolhardy, and has led to fatal
accidents.
The summit of the Theodule Pass is nearly 11,000 feet
above the sea level. The scene is a very striking one. Close
around is the broad expanse of ice. Outside this, the scene
comprises the wondrous Matterhom, or Mont Cervin, the
Piedmontese mountains, Monte Rosa, the valley of S. Niklaus,
with the Bernese Alps beyond 5 and in the eastern foreground,
the Theodulhom (11,391 feet), the Breithorn (13,685 feet), and
the Petit Mont Cervin (12,749 feet).
On this Col, Saussure spent three days in scientific experi-
ments. There is a small hut, where light refreshments can be
obtained ; it is the loftiest inhabited spot in Europe.
Descending towards the Val d'Aosta, a walk of about three-
quarters of an hour across the glacier, brings the traveller to
the Fourneaux, a rugged tract of rocks and d6bris. Here
horses can be often met with, waiting the chance of an engage-
ment. Green meadows are again TeacYied,axA«LVQs\aaskKCk.^\i^sK.
Le Breuil, is a good inn, witJi horses^ etc.
170
MARTIGNY TO ARONA.
From the plain of Breuil, the descent is by a fine moontain
gorge^ with a torrent rushing through it. No graide is needed
tor the remainder of the route. From Fal Toumanche^ the de-
scending valley is very delightful, from the charming combins-
tion of rocks and precipices, rushing vtrater^ and plentiful 6)liage.
Some interesting remains of a Roman aoueduct are visible at
intervals, especially the arches, by the cliff near Antey, Oo
reaching Gh^tillon, the tourist is on the high road traversed
by daily diligence between Ivrea and Aosta. From Ivrea, the
railway can be taken for Turin or Milan ; and from Aosta (see
p. I j j) the St. Bernard and Martigny, or Chamouny and MoDt
Blanc may be reached.
FROM MARTIGNY OVER THE 8IMPLON, TO
ARONA.
The Baths Of Saxon are near station Gottfrey. They are
noted for the cure of skin diseases, and for gambling. Passing
Ardon, with its ironworks, we soon near Sion. The traveller is
now in a region of ancient castles. Every eminence seems to
have had, at one time or other, its own particular fortress. At
Sfion there are three of these edifices, adding much to the pic-
turesque appearance of the place as it is approached. Here the
shale mountains are beautifully terraced like those of the Rhine.
Sion contains, besides its three castles (of which the
highest, the Tourbillon, may be visited for the extensive view,
an old cathedral, of some interest for frescoes 3 a Jesuit con-
vent, with a local natural history collection 3 an old prison. La
Tour de Force 3 and a hospital. The town has had its great
conflagration, and some thirty sieges.
[From Sion there is a good four days' ride, by Evolena, St.
Luc, Griiben, and St. Niklaus, to Zermatt, which, if desired,
can be taken in preference to the Rhone Valley and Visp Thai
route (see p. 160).]
The railway passes 5"/. Leonard station, and by more ruined
castles, mulberry plantations, etc., on to Sierre.
Sierre (Hotel Belle Vue) is picturesquely situated on an
eminence in the centre of a good wine district, and has many
fine but decaying mediaeval buildings, and also some interesting
ruins in the vicinity.
Excursions from Sierre can be attan^^ \.o \>afc ^^^^&s^ ^
THE SIMPLON. I71
Leuk (see p. 96) by omnibus $ into the lovely Val d*AnnivierSj
etc.
Crossing the Rhone, the road lies past hills formerly the
resort of brigands, past Alpine villages, glistening church
towers, waterfalls, castles, rocks, valleys, snow-mountains, alter-
nations of sterility and fertility, past Leuk ; Susten;
Tourtemagne ; Viege, or Yispacli (whence numerous
tours may be made to the glacier region of Zermatt) ; and then
on to Brigue (Brieg, Hotel de la Poste), where the railway
terminates, and the work of ascent refally commences.* The dili-
gence leaves Brigue daily for the Simplon route, and takes about 17
hours to accomplish the journey to Arona. Here we bid farewell
to the romantic valley of the Rhone, and enter upon the land which
Mr. Laing quaintly epitomizes as one of " avalanches, snows,
glaciers, winding roads, with cataracts and precipices below, and
clouds and blue sky above, and all the other romance furniture
of Alpine scenery.* The road now pursued by us was con-
structed by Napoleon, after the famous battle of Marengo. The
scenery becomes wilder and grander at every turn. Bridge
after bridge is crossed, gallery after gallery gone through, houses
of refuge passed by, and then comes the stupendous panorama
of the Alps, the real grandeur of which is. beyond the power of
words to paint, and which forms a sight well worth the whole
cost of the journey from England. '* In the distance is an eagle
soaring majestically through the air 3 below us is heard the
distant Alpine horn, or the shepherd's melodious pipe, its notes
commingling with the tinkling of numerous sheep bells.
Higher and higher we rise, from the very roots of the moun*
tains, the picture varying in beauty at every turn ; now the dizzy
precipices below, now the craggy heights above, until the
summit of the pass, 6600 ft. above the level of the sea, is
reached. Further on is the hospice, capable of giving suitable
refuge to three hundred, managed by pious Augustine monks.
The little village of Simplon is situated about 1400 ft. below
the summit. Through a black and craggy rending asunder of
the granite Alps, the descent into Italy is commenced, a foam-
ing torrent below, and straight up, above the gloomy precipices,
the lowering clouds of heaven. Marvellous are the winding
tunnels which commence after passing the famous GrOrge of
Gondo, said to be the wildest and grandest in the Alps.
These gigantic tunnels are hewn out ot* ?l s^oVA xaasa <:^ x<is^6.»
♦ For farther particulan of the above-named vUc«&» ^e 'WaoxAN^'Ci x^njss.
(P- 77)'
IJ2 LUCERNE TO COMO.
which seemed to impede the further progress of the road, and
took eighteen months to excavate — loo men, in gangs of
eight, working in turns day and night. On emerging from
the tunnel, a scene of stupendous majesty meets the eye.
Hissing and roaring, the boiling waters of the Fressinone
dash over the rocks above into the tremendous gorge below.
On either side rise rocks more than 2000 ft. in height, the
whole forming a picture of almost terrific sublimity. More
cascades, more fearful ravines, more lofty crags, and then
GondO, the last Swiss village. Soon Iselle, die frontier
town of Switzerland and Italy, is reached. Crevola, with
its rock gallery, gorge, and bridge, passed, a completely
new scene unfolds. '* Now the scenery softens," says another
writer ; " the Yal d'Ossola expands, a charming relief and
contrast to past horrors. Luxuriant verdure, plants, vines,
insect voices, mellowing tints, the very air ' breathing of the
sweet south,' yes, this is Italy indeed ! " There is little to detain
us at Domo d'Ossola (Hotel de la Ville). More and more
delightiully Italian becomes the journey. Nothing can exceed
its highly picturesque character, especially as FariolO is ap-
proached. After passing numerous granite quarries, and the
famous quarry " out of which man's skill has disinterred the
whole of Milan cathedral," a perfect maze of vineyards, olive
groves, corn-fields, and chestnut plantations arrests the gaze.
Here, too, the beautiful LagO Maggiore suddenly bursts
into view, heightening inconceivably the rich glories of the
landscape 3 and in the distance is seen Isola Madre, one of
the charming islands which stud the lake. Reaching Baveno
(where many travellers stay in order to visit the Borromean
Isles), the diligence journey is continued over a road almost
wholly supported by granite pillars, by the side of the famous
lake, and passing numerous villas and gardens, it rattles at full
speed through the streets of Arona.
LUCERNE OVER THE ST. GOTHARD TO
COMO (Camerlata).
(By steamer to Fliielen 2i hours; thence dIRgence to
Biasca 5 railway to Bellinzona, and diligence to Lugano. In
summer time there are two diligences daily.)
The St. GrOthard Railway is in course of construction,
but will not be completed for Ita^c Omom^ \tota. lissjcetne to
Como for some years. There ate a\te.?Ld^ ^ Yko^e^et ^ orofc i^jt \:«^
ST. GOTHARD PASS.
173
portions of the line open, namely, from Biasca to Bellinzona
and Locarno, and from Lugano to Chiasso (p. 177).
Leaving FlUelen, Altdorf is soon reached 5 the capital of
the Canton of Uri, with a colossal statue of William Tell, mark-
ing, it is said, the spot where the Swiss hero stood when he
aimed at the apple on his son's head.
A little further on is Burglen, at the entrance to the
Schachtenthal, the birthplace and home of Tell, with a chapel
painted over with scenes from his life and supposed to mark
the site of his house. Through the Schachtenthal there is a
path to the Baths of Stachelberg.
Crossing the Schachenbach (in the waters of which the hero
perished while struggling to save a child) and skirting the
meadow forming the popular meeting-place of the canton,
IIlus is reached. Near Silenen there is a fine view of the
pyramidal Bristenstock (io,o8j) 5 a castle attributed to Gressler,
and the chapel of the " Fourteen saints who help the needy."
Several minor places are passed in rapid succession, the road
rising gradually, and the scenery everywhere being of the most
romantic description imaginable. After leaving Amsteg the
road crosses the Reuss, which here dashes madly along, foam-
ing and leaping over its rocky bed.
The ascent of the St. Gothard is here commenced ; it is
not, as many suppose, a single peak or eminence, but a moun-
tainous group presenting many peculiar features. The region
now traversed has occupied a prominent position in modem
continental history. In the valley of the Reuss and the sur-
rounding neighbourhood, several of the deadliest struggles,
occasioned by the outbreak of war between France, Germany,
and Russia, in 1 799 took place 5 the French, after their defeat
of the Russian geneial, occupying the road as far as the Hos-
pice of St. Gothard, the building of which was used by them
as fuel. Crossing and recrossing the Reuss several times, and
passing Wasen, Wattingen, and Gk)schenen, with its
glacier landscape and its wonderful works in connection with
the St. Gothard Tunnel, the awe-inspiring defile of the
Schollenen is entered, and continues for three miles. In it,
amid wild and savage desolation, is the famous Devil's
Brid.^e: —
*^ Winding *neath rocks Impending, and o*er steeps
Dread in their awfiil altitude, the road
Leads through a pass whose ^jcandcMt \& ^\caii
Upon the aMre-strock mindi die mVi'^«v3S&v««s^
jy^ LUCERNE TO COMO.
From precipice to chum, where it keepe
Boiling and fretting till it throws abrosui
Milt doads : then, chafed and flying from iti goaly
Like fiery steed, o*er crag and crerice leaps.
The thunder rolls among the mountain peaki $
The echoes seem gigantic in their home,
(Now answering deep as voice Promethean speaki ;)
Towering aloft where the fleet chamois roam,
IVIid pines and cottages the church oh seeks
To buUd its shrine where prayerful Switzen come.**
Here a tremendous battle was fought in lygg, between the
French and Austrians, numbers of whom perished in the
abyss beneath. The bridge is a modem structure; the old
bridge (the ruins of which, covered with creeping plants, are
yet visible) was blown up by the Austrians while being forced
by the French, during the conflict.
From the " Paradise Lost " of Milton, to the " Satan " of
Montgomery, the certain gentleman who haunts mysterious
places, has been the burden of poets' song. The following
well-known lines are very graphic: —
•< Called the DeviVs Bridge :
With a single arch, from ridge to ridgey
It leaps across the terrible chasm
Yawning beneath us black and deep.
As if, in some convulsive spasm,
The summits of the hills had cracked.
And made a road for the cataract.
That raves and rages down the steep !
Never any bridge but this
Could stand across the wild abyss ;
All the rest, of wood or stone.
By the Devil's hand were overthrown.
He toppled crags from the precipice^
And whatsoe'er was built by day
In the night was swept away ;
None could stand but this alone.*'
Away, through the granite tunnel of Urner Loclx, across the
peaceful Valley of Uri, where winter reigns during eight
months out of twelve, to Andermatt. As Andermatt is
only one mile from the Devil's Bridge, it is a convenient and
good place to break the journey at. It is considered to be
the chief village of the valley. The Churcll has a very
remarkable skull-adorned charnel house. From the Marla-
trilf Chapel there is a ftne View, ^xi vntec^stln^ Exhibi-
tJon of SU Gothard MiliieTals o^^o€v\fc >i>afc >aa\sfiw*>a.
ST. GOTHARD PASS. lyr
worthy of notice. Hospenthal (Hotel Meyerhof), about a
mile and a half further on, is also a good stopping place. From
Hospenthal where the road to the Furca diverges (see p. 74),
the road becomes steeper, ascending by numerous windings.
The route becomes more and more impressive as we reach the
summit of the pass, and the tourist's sketch-book is frequently
in active requisition. Near the AlbergO del St. Gottardo,
6joo feet about the level of the sea, is the famous Hospice,
where superior Newfoundland dogs may be purchased, at some-
what high rates, by those fond of canine companions. A pause
is made at the post house for some time while the travellers
dine.
It is in the St. Gothard that the Rhine, Rhone, and Reuss
have their source. (See p. 7). •
Hepworth Dixon, in " The Switzers," says, speaking of the
St. Gothard :—
" Her cardinal peak is Galen-stock — ^the peak now towering
on our right, — a fount of light and beauty in this sombre realm,
which ancient shepherds, coming up the valleys of the Rhone
and Reuss in search of fortune, called the ' Pillar of the Sun.'
He is the Saul of the St. Gothard group, — above the tallest of his
brethren : Gerstenhorn, Lucendro, Mutt-horn, Spitzberg, Six
Madun, — though all these mountains are of Anak breed.
Three glaciers hang about his hoary neck, and shiver down his
sturdy sides j the Tiefen glacier on his northern flank, the
Siedeln glacier on his southern flank, and the Rhone glacier
(which has many feeders) on his western flank. These glaciers
drip by different ravines, and descend to different seas. Above
his summit floats a canopy of cloud, from under which at times
leap fire, and wind, and hail — those rival demons of this upper
air, which shake and daze the earth in their plutonic and mag-
netic strife. About his feet, low down among the ruts and
wrecks of ice, lie caves of wondrous beauty and uncounted
wealth. Three years ago a cave was entered by this Tiefen
glacier, when the noblest crystals in the world were found.
The rock was topaz. Fragments lay about in heaps, each
broken piece a hundred to two hundred pounds in weight.
Some fifteen tons of topaz were removed from this great
hiding-place of nature in a single year. What sage can count
the marvels yet in lurking near this Pillar of the Sun ? "
Crossing the Ticino, we approach the s^^t ^Vssxfc ^fea.
Russian Greneral Suwarrow, seeing \i\s ^e"oa.^vet% ^^as'st nse^^s.
the fearful £re of the French, causedi a ^as^ X.o\» ^^^%* ^^*2s»t-
1^5 LUCERNE TO COMO.
ing he would be buried at the place where, for the first time,
his soldiers had retreated. The effect was electrical. With a
loud cry they furiously charged the French, driving them back
to Lucerne ; the Devil's Bridge, destroyed a second time by
the French, being crossed by means of planks suspended from
the soldiers' scarves. Descending the Val Tremola, a wild
and dismal valley in which avalanches are not uncommon, we
reach Airolo (Hotel de la Poste) where is an ancient tower
more than a thousand years old, and where the sound of the
Italian language reminds us that we are almost in another
country. ITie route now becomes exceedingly beautiful j pic-
turesque ravines, mouldering ruins, foaming cataracts, huge
masses of rock, and other romantic features imparting fresh
charms to the landscape. ■ The ravine just beyond, Dazio
Grande, is one of the grandest pieces of the whole route.
Passing Faido, the scenery becomes more Italian in appear-
ance. The masses of snow which encumbered the roadside
have completely disappeared. The rich sunshine sparkles on
the roofs of the numerous church towers, cascades leap in a
thousand fantastic forms over the time-beaten cliffs, while
here and there the mulberry, the fig, and the vine lend fresh
attractions to the view. Then in swift succession the towns
of Giornico, where 15,000 Austrians were ingloriously routed
by 600 Swiss in 1478, Bodio, and Poleggio are passed.
At Biasca (Hotel de Biasca) the St. Gothard railway can be
taken to Bellinzona and Locarno. A further portion of the
line is also open (1876) between Lugano and Chiasso. Re-
suming the diligence route from Biasca, we reach Osogna,
situated at the base of a rocky peak. Two or three small
villages follow, then, the junction with the Bernardino route
(see p. 181), the Moesa is crossed, and the road, passing
Arbedo, where in 1422, 3000 Swiss were defeated by 24,000
Milanese, brings to view the frowning walls and lofty turrets
of Bellinzona. (Hotel de la Ville and Hotel TAnge.)
Omnibuses may be taken from here to Magadino (p. 189).
The position of the fortress- wall was formerly one of great
strength. Nothing can surpass the superb character of the
landscape at this point. To reproduce it in full beauty is
utterly beyond the skill of the artist, even were he possessed
of the genius of a Turner. Near Cadenazzo emerging
from the charming valley of the Ticino, through which
the traveller has so long been p\e«ksaTL^\^ V>\iTass^\\v^, -aadi
Bfter passing through a rich che^nxA ^00^^ ^xi^ \s^ n%cv^x^%
COIRE TO COLICO. I77
mountains, and villages, he arrives at Lugano. (Hotel du
Pare.) Passing by tiie east side of the Lake of Lugano,
M elide is reached, where the lake is crossed by means of a
stone dam, erected some years since at a cost of 700,000 francs.
At Mendrisio is seen Monte Generoso, " The Rigi of
Italian Switzerland." Good hotels abound here. At Mendri-
sio, Hotel Mendrisio j at Monte (renerosa, Hotel de Monteroso 5
and at Rovio, the Hotel Rovio. At Ghiasso is the custom
house, and here the tourist takes leave of Switzerland, and in a
brief period of time finds himself at Como.
COIRE, OVER THE SPLUGEN, TO COLICO
(COMO).
Coire (Hotel Steinbock). In the summer-time there are
three diligences daily. The journey to Colico is about seventy-
six miles, and performed in about seventeen hours.
For six miles the road is level, and excepting the barracks,
esplanade, and agricultural school, there is little to see. Passing
through the little village of Ems, and crossing the Rhine by a
covered bridge (252 ft. long), Reichenau is reached at the con-
fluence of the Vorder-Rhein and Hinter-Rhein. In the chateau,
Louis Philippe, then Dae de Chambres, seeking refuge from the
fury of the French Revolution, resided from October 1793 to July
1794, under the assumed name of Chabot. The road increases
in interest as the journey progresses. Small towns and villages
are passed, and on the summits of rocky and barren crags in
this romantic region, houses and churches are seen perched
like doves on the roofs of high buildings. Dark-brown goats
are also browsing on the cliffs ; vegetation is rich, and the sides
of the roat! are starred with flowers.
Bonaduz, with its ancient frescoes in the chapel of St.
George ; RhaznUs, with the handsome residence of the Vieli
family, overlooking the Rhine 5 Katzis ; and many castles,
chSiteaux, etc., are successively passed. Near Katzis, the Piz
Curver, Piz St. Michael, and other majestic snow-clad moun-
tains, are prominent features of the prospect. On approaching
Thusis, the castle of Tagstein is seen overlooking the slopes by
the pretty village of Massein.
Thusis (Hotel Via Mala) \s 21! t\\^ fioxiSL\5fi»R& ^ *^^
NoUa with the Rhine, a pretty vVWa^e oti 2, s^nm o\^^>^^'^«=>^'**^'^"'
i
, yg COIRE TO COLICa
I
berg, in the midst of fme scenery. It was bamt down in 1845;
apd has been much improved in the re-building. Prom- the
Nolla, a very remarkable view is obtained. The valley is en-
circled by a guardian chain of lofty mountains } on tiie right
hand are the ruins of the castle of Hohen-Rhaetien> or Hochr
Realty found, it is said, by Raetus, chief of-the-Etru^canSi b:c;-
587. If so, it is the oldest castle in Switzerland.
The Via Mala is. now entered. It is a remarkable fissure^
three to four miles long,, a few feet wide, with precipices of ijoo
feet. As seen in Middleton Dale, in Derbyshire, and some
other similar ravines, the two sides correspond with each other,
suggesting that some vast natural convulsion produced this
enormous fissure. From 200 to 500 feet above the stream
below, a carriage-road has been hewn out of the solid rock, and
protected by strong masonry. At the Ferlorenes Loch^ or Lost
Gulf, at Via Mala, where the once impassable rocks are tunnelled
for over 200 ft., it is as though the grandeur of nature had been
concentrated on this wild spot. The view looking back towards
Thusis is probably one of the finest, in all the Alpine passes.
The traveller will not fail to notice the* great skill exercised in
engineering this wonderful piece of road. The river is crossed
three times, and at the second bridge the view either way is
grand in the extreme.
Leaving the Via Mala, the valley of Schams (Latin, Sexam-
niensis — " six streams '*) is entered. Here the green meadows
and neat cottages form a graceful relief, after the gloomy
terrors of the awful chasms from which the traveller has just
smerged. The peaks of the Hirli are seen to the south.
Passing Zillis, with its ancient church, and Donat, a village,
with the castle of La Turr (where dwelt the Austrian bailifE
whose head Johann Calder plunged into the boiling broth, as
recorded in Swiss history), and crossing the glacier stream that
comes down from the Piz Curver, Andeer is reached. Here are
a ruined castle, fine views, and capital opportunities for excur-
sions to some of the adjacent valleys. Passing the ruins of the
Barenburg, a kind of minor Via Mala is entered, known as the
Roffna Ravine, a wild gorge three miles long, through which
the bright waters of the Rhine precipitate themselves in a
remarkable series of cascades and falls. Leaving the gorge
behind, the spacious snow-fields of the Einshom reveal &em-
5eJves; while further on the noble Alpine landscape of the
Rheinwald Thai bursts into view. TVi<&Y\li^'&V<)\"ai%^cS.%'^\xiL%^
THE SPLt)GEN. lyg
(Hotel de la Posfe) is .4800 feet above the level oi the sea.
Here travellers by .diligence stop for refreshitient^. Oh tEbe
Spliigen, as on t^e, Julier slopes, numbers of Bergamasqiie
shepherds with their flocks are encountered during the season*]
An excursion to the source of the Hinter-Rhein can be arranged'
from this place.
Spliigen to Bellinzona, by the Bernardino Pass .(see p. 180). ..
Leaving Spliigen^ the diligence crosses the Khine through
a long gallery or tynnel, anc) then^ by ipea^s' of numerous
zig-zags, mounts to the summit of the l^pliigen Pass.
Crossing the frontier, the descent into Italy is commenced,
" I have crossed by Mont Cenis Pass, the St. Gothard, and the
Simplon," says a recent traveller, " and though each has its own
peculiar attraction, yet the Spliigen Pass is truly the most
magnificent road over the Alps. No one can go over this road
aiid enter into the spirit of it, without feeling that the mind
has been enlarg:ed hy this communion with Nature in her
noble grandeur."
This opinion is held by many who have become acquainted
with the characteristics of the difFerent routes. The Spliigen
Pass was known to the Romans. The present road was con*
structed by the Austrian Government in 1821.
Passing the Dogana, or Italian Custom House,, and two
or three adjacent houses, whose first-floor windows are often
on a level with the surrounding snow, the traveller proceeds by
endless zig-zag paths, through numerous galleries, past the
waterfall formed by the Madesimo (800 ft. in height), till a halt
is made at the tiny village of Campo Dolcino, with its
church and cemetery. Then through the Liro valley, or
Valle S. Giacomo, the rugged aspect of which is somewhat
softened by the rich luxuriance of the vast chestnut forests
below. Rapidly the features of the landscape begin to change
their aspect. The region of flrs and pines, of overhanging
precipices and romantic waterfalls, of frowning rocks and
yawning chasms, are left for a land of beautiful vineyards,
stately olive groves, and golden comflelds.
Chiavenna (Hotel Conradi), is a capital resting-place.
Very charming is the locale of the town. It is situated on the
Maira, at the entrance to the Val Bregaglia. Thet^ 'as^ ^ji^\s!t&
ruins of an ancient castle of the De ^aWs ^2lyjv\'^ > ^\!Lv2QL\sa^^ ^
troublous history in the old days. l?xoni Y^e c^^'Cl^ ^\^«^^Ck^
iPo splUgen to bellinzona.
views are very fine. The church of S. Lorenzo has a beautiful
campanile springing up from an arcaded enclosure, which was
formerly the cemetery, or Campo Santo. Those interested in
such things may inspect the neatly-arranged skulls and bones in
the adjacent charnel houses. There is a very antique sculptured
font in the Baptistery.
From Chiavenna, the character of the scenery again changes
and all around there are mountains hemming in the valleys^ and
wild ravines forming singular contrasts to the quieter scenes.
The falls of the Maira near here form a perfect picture.
Crossing swift rushing rivers^ and leaving the realms of eternal
snow behind, cornfields, vineyards, and mulberry groves are
passed. Riva is the last village on the road. The Lake
of Riva is skirted, and the rums of the castle of Fuentes —
owing its origin to the Spaniards in 1603, and its destruction
to the French in 1796, — are passed on the right. The
diligence stops at Colico, where the steamboat is waiting to
convey the tourist across the silvery waters of the beautiful
lake, whose distant sails
** For floating birds we take,
Bathing in azure waves their plumes of snow.
Wherein shore, tower, and town their mirror make."
8PLUGEN TO BELLINZONA, BY THE SAN
BERNARDINO PASS.
(By diligence in eight hours.)
Spliigen (see p. 178).
The road passes Medels and Nufenen to Hinterrhein,
the highest village of the Upper Rheinwaldthal.
[From Hinterrhein a fatiguing expedition of four hours can
be undertaken to the source of the Hinterrhein, issuing from an
opening in the Rheinwald or Zapport Glacier, at an altitude of
7270 ft. above the sea level. From the adjacent Zapportalp
the glacier can be ascended, and good views obtained of the
Rheinwald mountains^ varying from nine to eleven thousand
feet in height.]
After crossing the stream by a three-arched bridge, and
wending up the mountain side, the road forward from Hinter*
rheln conducts through a sterWe Tavme lo \\i^ ^. Bernardinc
JPass {6tjo ft.) This pass, wVAcYi 'W2&V\iowci vo S>Rfc^^\Ea!Q&
SAN BERNARDINO PASS. l8i
received its present name from the chapel erected in the time
of St. Bernardino of Siena. The inn (Casa di Rifugio), stands
by the Lago Moesola, whose shores are an attractive place for
the Alpine botanist. A fine waterfall in the river Moesa is
passed, and the bridge, named after Victor Emmanuel, is crossed.
To the monarch just named, the construction of this Alpine
carriage route is chiefly due. Passing for some distance under
a well-buttressed roof, to guard against avalanches, the road
then descends the precipitous face of the mountain by windings
so cleverly constructed that a quick trot can be kept up all
the way.
S. Bernardino is the highest village in the Val Mesol-
cina. The baths at this place, supplied from the mineral springs
are in good repute, and well frequented in summer.
Passing the Fall of the Moesa, Giacomo, and Celbia, and
commanding many beautiful views, especially from the bridge
of S. Giacomo, the road proceeds to Mesocco, from which
this delightfully Italian and rigidly Roman Catholic valley de-
rives its name. Maize, vines, mulberry and walnut trees, in
luxuriant abundance, clothe the valley, into which numerous
waterfalls leap down from the enclosing mountains. The
snake- haunted ruins of the castle of Misox add charmingly to
the interest of the view in passing Mesocco.
The road in proceeding passes abundant evidences of the
fearful ravages of the storm and floods of 1868, when over 250
dwellings and many bridges were destroyed. The beautiful
Waterfall of BuflTalora is seen soon after passing Soazza.
Cabbiola, with its waterfalls, Lostallo with its vineyards, Cama,
Leggia, and Grono, with the strongly-built tower of Florentina
and a frescoed chapel, are successively passed.
At Grono is the entrance to the Val Calanca, extending
18 miles northward to the Adula mountains, and studded with
numerous towns and villages.
At Roveredo, the chief town of the lower valley (pop.
1 100), are the ruins of the castle of the Trivulzio family. At this
town the good St. Charles Borromeo, in i J38, burnt eleven old
women and the prior of Roveredo for witchcraft. After passing
8. Fiiiore, the last village of the Grisons, and Lumino, the
first of Canton Ticino, the St. Gothard route is reached, near
the bridge over the Moesa (p. 176).
Hence by the battle-field of Arbedo to Belliazoua. <3»^
p. 176).
1 82 COIRE TO ANDERMATT.
COIRE TO ANDERMATT BY THE OBERALP.
(By diligence in I3i hours.)
The route is by one of the most picturesque valleys in
Switzerland, the Vorder Rheinthal, with castles on the heights
along the river as numerous as in Rhenish Prussia itself.
At Reichenau (p. 25), 6 miles from Coire, two routes offer
themselves as far as Ilanz. The shortest is on the lefl bank of
the river, by Versam, with its lofty bridge, (260 feet above the
waters of the Rabiusa,) Carrera, Vallendas, and cretinous Kas-
tbris. to Ilanz. The other and far more picturesque route is by
tl e high road on the right bank, through numerous villages,
and with plenty of fine views of mountain's, waterfalls, ruined
castles, etc. Tamlns, Trins, and Films are the chief places
passed.
Ilanz, on both sides the Rhine, was once an important
place, as many fine old houses with armorial bearings testify.
The language of the place is Romansch, which is more or less
prevalent throughout the valley. Grand views are obtained in
this vicinity, especially from some of the neighbouring heights —
the Piz Mundaun (6775 feet), and others. Excursions to
the Lugnetz Valley, or the Vrinthal, are of great inte-
rest.
The road forward crosses the Rhone at Tavanasa, and at
Rinkenberg, proceeding through delightful and ever-varying
scenery to Trons.
At Trons the diligence stops to allow the passengers to
dine. There are several attractions to inspect. The Hall of
the Statthalterei of the Abbey of Dissentis, is adorned
with armorial bearings of the magistrates of many genera-
tions. The fragment of the sycamore-tree near the village,
over 700 years old, marks the spot where the celebrated Grey
League was formed, in 1424, to resist the tyranny of the
feudal lords (p. 32). The adjacent Chapel Of St. Anna
has curious frescoes and iiiutti.es illustrating the history of the
League. The view from the Church of S. Maria, above the
village, is very fine.
Radius is next passed, and then picturesque Somvix on its
jbllL The Val Somvix is well worth exploring. There is a
bridle-path through it, and by iVve Gtdti2L'^^s&\ftO\\Natkfc»QRLc.\L'-
Pying abo^''* *'"elve hours.
THE OBERALP PASS. :ig3
. Nearing Dissendsr the hc^ly-constrncted road crosses the
grand Russeiner Tobel, by a wooden bridge over 200 feet in
length, at a height of 160 feet above the stream below.
Dissentis was famous for its Benedictine Abbey, founded
in the 7th century by fellow-missionaries of St. Gall, and long
the head-quarters of religion and civilization in these remote
regions. It is finely situated, 4000 feet above the sea level,
having been rebuilt after a fire in 1846, and is now used as a
Cantonal School.
At Dissentis, the Mittel-Rhein, or Medelser, joins the
Vorder Rhein. The Medelser Glacier is well seen from the
Chapel of St. Acletta, half a mile west of Dissentis. The
Piz Muraun (95 n feet) can be ascended in five hours;
ladies have accomplished it. The Medelser Thai, Lukmanier
Pass, Val Piora, etc., to the south, and the Val Russein, Sand-
alp Pass, in the Todi Mountains, etc., to the north, afford
good opportunities for explorations, of too protracted and
fatiguing a character, however, for the general tourist.
From Dissentis there is a route to Biasca on the St. Gothard
route (p. 176)5 nine hours by a bridle-path across the Lukmanier
Pass (6298 feet) to Olivone ; thence by diligence to Biasca in
three hours. Some portions of this route are similar to the
Via Mala.
Leaving Dissentis, the Vorder Rhein is seen, reduced to a
mountain torrent, up the left bank of which the road ascends,
affording splendid views of the valley behind, and the snow-clad
mountains in front.
Passing Sedriin, chief village in the Tavetsch Valley,
Ruerasy S. Giacomo, and other villages, and the ruins of the
Castle of Pultmenga on a rocky hill, Tschamut is reached,
at a height of 5380 feet above the sea level — the highest place
in Europe where corn is successfully grown.
Winding up the Val Surpalix, the road reaches the boundary
between the Grisons and Uri, at the summit of the Oberalp
Pass (6733 feet). The Oberalp See, abounding in trout,
was the scene of a fierce struggle between French and Austrians
in 1799. The road crosses the Oberalp, and soon brings the
traveller in sight of the Vale of Urseren, with the Furca Inn
in the backgrounds By a number of long windings, Ander-
inatt, on the St. Gothard route, is reached (p. 174).
l84 COIRE TO THE ENGADINE.
COIRE TO THE ENGADINE BY THE JULIER
PASS.
(By diligence to Samaden in 14 hours.)
This route leads through very fine scenery to the increasingly
popular district known as the Engadine.
At Ghurwalden the whey cure is usually in full opera-
tion. From Parpan the Statzerhorn or Piz Raschill, 845a
feet, can be ascended without a guide. There is a splendid
panorama of the adjacent valleys and mountain chains.
At a height of jo88 feet, the Pass of Valbella is crossed.
The descending road then leads by the Lake of Vatz^ and some
smaller lakes, on to Lenz. Thence, still descending, the rapid
Albula is reached by Tiefenkasten. This village is finely
situated in a basin-like valley.
Hence by Burvein^ Coniers, Schweiningen, Tlnzen, and
other picturesque villages, and amongst much remarkable hill
and valley scenery, rendered still more interesting by occa-
sional waterfalls, churches, castles, etc., the route conducts to
Molins (Muhlen.) Here the diligence usually halts for dinner.
The scenery is now increasingly fine; grand rocks and
dense woods mingle their attractions. Leaving Molins, the
road winds through a wild gorge, with fir and larch-coverei'
cliffs rising on either side. As the road rises, the wildness of
the scenery increases, and vegetation becomes poorer, till at
Stalla, or Bivio (5827 feet), even potatoes can seldom be suc-
cessfully grown.
From Stalla there is an ancient route, now little frequented,
over the Septimer pass to Casaccia. It was often trodden by
Roman and German armies.
In about two hours from Stalla the summit of the Julier
Pass is reached (7J03 feet). Here are two round colunms, said
by some to be Augustan milestones, by others described as
Celtic altars to the sun. On the adjacent lofty pastures im-
mense fiocks of sheep are fed in summer.
The short descent from the pass into the high valley of the
Engadine is very striking. Between the lofty precipices of the
Piz Julier and Piz d'Albana on the left, and the Piz Pulaschin
on the right, the road descends. The view of Silva plana and
its lake, with the snowy peaks of the Bernina mountains in the
background, is exceedingly fine. S\Vva^\3iTv3L^^efe^.\ft6'\ is reached
in about an hour from the pass, and then ^2Lm^d^n V>^ ^, V^t^^,
THE ENGADINE.
185
COIRE TO THE ENGADINE BY THE ALBULA
PASS.
(By diligence to Ponte in 1 1 hours.)
Coire to Lenz> see p. 184.
From Lenz a fine new road passes Brienz, and then winds
down into the Albula Thai to Bad Alveneu, with its
mineral springs. The scenery is very beautiful. The ruins
of the Greifenstein frown from a rock above the town of
Filisur.
The Berguner Stein is a thickly-wooded, deep mountain
gorge. High up on one side a rock-blasted road runs 650 feet
above the Albula flowing below. Bergun lies in a grassy
basin, surrounded by snowy peaks. It has an old church anid a
fine prison-tower.
From Bergun the road winds and curves by various chalets,
and several fine waterfalls, formed by the Albula river, up to
the rock-strewn valley known as the Teufelsthal. Thence the
summit of the Albula Pass is reached, 7589 feet above the
sea level, closed in by the granite and limestone peaks of the
Albulastock. The pass itself is a mass of rocks and debris in
chaotic confusion. .
"Winding down from the Pass towards Ponte, fine views of
the valley are obtained, with the Piz Languard on the right, and
the distant Piz del Diavel (10,259 feet).
THE ENGADINE,
or Upper Valley of the Inn, extends along the river Inn for about
fifty-seven miles, and is generally about a mile broad. At its
north-east extremity, near Martinsbruck, it is over 3000 feet
above the sea level, and rises to nearly 6000 feet at Sils on the
south-west. The valley produces in abundance grass and wild
flowers. Vbila tout ! Its dry, clear atmosphere and intensely
blue skies are proverbial, and it is hemmed in by majestic moun-
tains and glacial scenery. For sketchers, botanists, butterfly-
collectors, Alpine climbers, and others, the Engadine is a very
paradise. The most interesting part of the valley is the Upper
Engadine, south-west of Samaden.
186 SAMADEN.
THE UPPER ENQADINE.
(The Maloja to Samaden, i j miles.)
The Maloja is an elevated table-land (5941 feet), separat-
ing the Engadine from the Val Bregaglia. In the vicinity are
the sequestered, mountain-girdled CavlOCCiO Lake^ the ele-
gant Monte d'Oro (10,544 feet), the Ordlegna Waterfall,
the snowy Muretto Pass (8389 feet), leading to Chiesa.
From the Maloja we will briefly describe the prominent fea-
tures of the Engadine Valley to its termination. Passing bj
the light green Lake Of Sils (4i miles in lenrth), commanded
by the Piz della Margna (10,354 feet), and its frowning glacier,
the town of Sils is reached, with some capital mountam and
glacier expeditions in the vicinity.
The Lake of Silvaplana is next skirted, and then the
town of the same name is reached, pleasantly surrounded by
green pastures. Every season this delightful town and neigh-
bourhood is receiving an increasing number of visitors 3 and its
beauties are so unique, that they justify the glowing colonrs in
which they have been painted. (Hotel Kivalta.)
From Silvaplaua a capital excursion can be arranged to
Pontresina (p. 187) by the Pass called the Fuorda da Surlcj
(9042 feet).
Silvaplana to Coire by the Julier Pass (see p. 184).
Campf^r is li miles from Silvaplana, Piz Langoard, tower-
ing to the south-east.
St. Moritz (6100 feet) is the next place in the valley, the
highest village in the Engadine. The Baths of St. MoritZ
are on a grassy plain, one mile from the village. They were highly
praised by Paracelsus in 1539. Two hundred and fifty patients
can be accommodated at the Curhaus. Variations of temperap
ture must be provided against here, as elsewhere in the Enga-
dine, for snow in August is not infrequent. Many beautiful
walks, carriage-drives, and excursions are afforded in the varied
and interesting neighbourhood of St. Moritz.
Some other small places, only interesting as supplying start-
ing places for further explorations of the district, are next
passed^ and then
SAMADEN
(Hotel Bernina),
IS reached. This is the c\i\ei ip\2LCft Vjx ^^ Xiv^'t ^^jl^^vksc
(pop., SJo) ; it has several Y\anAsora^\vo^'&^^«^^^'^^^^^ ^^Asst
THE LOWER EI^GADINE 1 87
reside the great Planta famiiT, who have been a considerable
power in the country for nearly a thousand years. The grave-
stones of the Plantas, and other great families now extinct,
lie thick in the old Church of St. Peter near the village.
From Samaden the Muottas (8464 feet) may be visited,
with fine views of the Bernina Glaciers, the Lakes of the
Upper Engadine, etc. Another excursion is to the Piz Ot
(10,660 feet). The flora of all this district is very fine.
From Samaden, Pontresina (see below) is often visited by
those not intending to take the Bernina Pass. The Piz Bernina
(13,294 feet), and other peaks of the grand Bernina chain, are
accessible from this place. The beautiful and interesting glaciers
of this district, covering about 3 jo square miles^ are now fre-
quently inspected.
PONTRESINA.
Pontresina is only a village of about 300 inhabitants, at. an
altitude of nearly 6000 feet. Flowers are abundant. It is a
first-rate head-quarters for glacial expeditions. (Hotel Krone.)
Amongst the attractions of Pontresina, the chief is perhaps
the ascent of the Piz Languard, through rhododendron
fringed forests, and across bright green pastures. From the
smnmit (10,715 feet, or nearly 5000 above Pontresina) the view
is bounded by Monte Rosa and Mont Blanc in the south-west,
and north-west by the Todi^ and includes all East Switzerland
and a portion of the Tyrol. On the sides of this mountain the
botanist may fiud a rich harvest of rare specimens.
The Morteratsch Glacier is a " frozen cataract," six
miles in length, li hours south of Pontresina.
The Roseg Glacier, like the previous, needs no guide 5 it
is about 2i hours from Pontresina. There are several other
excursions, as to the Diavolezza, etc., for experienced moun-
taineers only.
THE LOWER ENGADINE.
Samaden to Niauders, 1 1 hours by diligence — not worth while
io walk.
Leaving Samaden, a fine view of the lower valley, with the
snowy mountains and bright glaciers that encompass it, is ob-
tained.
Passing Bevers, under Crasta Mora (9636 feet), Ponte is
reached, with its old castle.
Ponte to Coire, by the AlbulaPas^ (jaee ^. 'i^^^' . __
Passing Madulein, and its ravne^ liJcvvcl^eRSv^ cecsssr^
1 88 BERNINA AND STELVIO PASSES.
castle of Guardavall, and Zuz, with its andent tower, a milder
and better cultivated portion of the valley is reached. ScaufSf
Zernetz (fine old church and ancient castle), Lavin, burnt
down in 1869, Ardelz, Scfuils, Baths ot TSLVSiSp, Fulpera,
Remiis, Martinshruck, and then Nauders, are the chief re-
maining places in the valley. The diligence ride is interesting
and attractive throughout ; and at many points the traveller who
has time at his disposal may well be tempted to alight and
sojourn at one of the village inns, to make explorations on
either side of this beautiful and remarkable valley.
THE BERNINA PASS.
(Samaden to Tirano, by diligence, 8| hours.)
From Samaden to Pontresina by the Flatzbach. From
Pontresina the route lies by the Morteratsch Glacier (see
p. 187), and the Bernina Houses (6735 feet). Four milesfur-
ther on, after leaving the region of trees, and passing the Lago
Minore and Lago Nero, Ospizio Bernina is reached, plea-
santly situated on the Lago Bianco, two miles long, and
affording plenty of fish. The Cambrena Glacier is just oppo-
site. To this point excursions are often made from Pontresina
and St. Moritz. ThePiz Campaccio and Piz Lagalp are acces-
sible peaks in the neighbourhood. At a short distance east is
the highest point of the Bernina Pass.
Through rock-hewn galleries and by winding curves, the road
descends, and fine views are obtained of the Poschiavino Valley,
the bottom of which is reached at Pisdadella.
Poschiavo, the delightful watering-place of Le Prese, Brusio^
Campo Cologno, and Madonna di Tirano, are successively reached,
and then Tirano, with its ancient palaces of the Pallavicini,
Visconti, and other noble families. From Tirano, there is a
route, 45 miles, through the Valtellina to Colico, by diligence,
in 8 hours, passing Sondrio and Morbegno, and joining the
Spliigen route a little before reaching Colico.
THE STELVIO PASS,
Nauders (see above).
From Nauders the road leads by S, Valentin auf der Hdde,
where Maximilian was defeated in 1499 ^7 ^ Orisons army half
the number of his own j then by Mals, with Knollers picture
of the ''Death of Joseph," vn tVie cYivxiOck. ^Jckwxvdaxice of fine
mountain scentry and many tvutied c2kS!0L^s, 2ccA o'Ccisx ^>^x^&^
THE ITALIAN LAKES. 1 89
Interest, are passed, and also the towns of Prod, Trafoi, and
Frinzenshohe,
Eight miles from Franzenshohe, the summit of the StelviO
Pass is reached, 9045 feet above the sea level. A grand view
of the Ortler Spitz, 1 2,900 feet, is obtained from an adjacent
eminence. This road is the highest in Europe. It is annually
much damaged hj the spring avalanches, etc. ; but is quite safe
from June to September, though it is well to postpone crossing
the Pass just after a heavy fall of snow. Through grand and
varied scenery the route descends to S, Maria and ^e celebrated
Baths of Bormio, with their chalybeate springs and beautiful
pleasure grounds 5 and then on by 5o//ac^/"e to Tirano (p. 188).
THE ITALIAN LAKES.
(For fuller particulars of the Italian Lakes, see ^'Cook's Hand-
book to Northern Italy.")
A visit to these charming lakes can readily be united with a
Swiss tour.
A tour of the lakes may be made thus : — Visit Lago
Maggiore, and terminate the journey at Luino (see below)
Take diMgence, or carriage, to Lugano. Make the tour of the
lake, and terminate the journey at Porlezza. Hence take
omnibus or carriage to Menaggio, on the lake of Como, and if
Lago d'Iseo and Lago di Garda are to be visited, terminate the
Como journey at Lecco, and take train vik Bergamo.
LAGO MAGGIORE
is about forty miles long, of varying breadth, and unequal
scenery. The northern part is finer than the southern, the glory
of the lake culminates in the neighbourhood of Baveno and Stresa.
Three steamboats daily run from Magadino to Arona in six
hours for five francs.
The chief places on the lake are Magadino, unpleasant
and unhealthy ; Locarno, a busy place ; pilgrimage church of
Madonna del Sasso 5 Ascona, with its ruined castle -, Bris-
sago (by Mont Limidario, 6550 feet), abounding in orchards
of orange, lemon, fig, etc. ; Canobbio ; in the church are
frescoes by Gaudenzio Ferrari ; Maccagno 5 Luino, from
whence the drive to Lugano is one of the sweetest imaginable j
Cannero, with the two castled islands o^^osx^^ ^\sr2«. "xo^.
the 15th century, the Mazzarda btoOaets \\n^^ ^ \^^ ^ ^^^^^^^la,
1^ THE ITALIAN LAKES.
beautiful mountain II Sasso del Ferro, from whose sammit a
charming prospect, stretching from Milan to Monte Rosa, is
seen; the silk- winding town of Intra, Pallanza (Oi^d
Hotel, Pallanza), Baveno, from either of wluch theBcmt)-
mean Isles can be readily visited. From Pallanza also there 13 a
pleasant omnibus route to Lago d'Orta, and from Baveno the
Simplon route can be joined (p. 172).
Between Laveno and Intra, and between Pallanza and the
idands, glorious glimpses of the Monte Rosa, Strahlhorn,
Simplon, and other mountain scenery are obtained.
THE BORROMEAN ISLANDS
are four in number, Jsola S. Giovanni, Isola Bella, and Isola
Madre (belonging to the Borromeo family), and Isola Superior^
or Dei Pescatori (the fishermen's island).
Isola Bella is a planted and terraced pleasure-ground, on
a once bare rock ; very fine, but somewhat formal and artifi-
cial. The views of tbe lake and its surroundings are splendid.'
Admission to the Gardens is one franco to the GliateaUi
with some good pictures, and room where Napoleon slept the
night before Marengo, also one franc.
Isola Madre (one fraoc) is a charming terraced island,-
with many rare tropical plants.
Isola del Pescatori is a compact fishermen's village.
Isola S. Giovanni is of no particular interest.
After leaving the Borromean isles, at the principal of which,
Isola Bella, the steamer stops without extra charge for landing
or embarking, Stresa is next reached.
Stresa (Hotel des lies Borrom^es, a magnificent hotel*
commanding some of tbe finest views on the lake) is a pleasant
place, surrounded with fine scenery both by land and water.
From here the Monte Motterone may be ascended : it is 4174
feet above the lake, and the view equals, if it does not rival, that
from the Rigi ; the plain of Lombardy and Piedmont, with the
Cathedral of Milan, in clear view 5 six of the Italian lakes, with
their picturesque islands and surroundings 5 the rivers Sesia
and Ticino meandering in streams of silver ; and on the other
hand, the great mountains from Monte Rosa to Ortler in the
Tyrol.
Belgil^te is the next town passed, and the tour of the lake
comes to an end at Arona.
AronsL contains a Gliurcb. ol S. lilL«LT\aL,^\CcL ^^a&^iwfci.
THE ITALIAN LAKES. igi
romeo Chapel ; a Holy Family, by Gaudenuo Fmcij and some
other pictures. The colossal statue of St. Charles Borromeo
is hear the town, sixty-six feet high, on a forty feet -pedestal.-
Facilities exist for the adventurous to mount the {Mestal;' enter
the saint's body, and climb up into his head.
From Arona diligences run to Bellinzona, forihe 'St. Gothafd *
or Bernardino Pass, to Lucerne, or Coire. See local time' tables. '
(For the Railway to Genoa and Turin, and the Railwayto
Milan, see *' Cook's Guide to Nbrthfem Italy.") '■ '' '
THE LAKE OF COMO
is the grandest and most beautiful of the Italian lakes. It is
thirty-eight miles long, and varies from one to three miles in
breadth. It reminds sometimes of the Rhine, and sometimes of
Lake Lucerne, yet differs from both. A perfect efflorescence of
loveliness is this fairy lake. In whatever direction you cast
your eyes whilst traversing its waters, the scenic effects are un-
rivalled. Embosomed amongst lofty mountains towering
proudly above the silvery surface j verdant slopes and vine-qlad
hills, with villas on the margin and on jutting peninsulas 5 pic-
turesque and charmingly-situated villages 5 the eye never wearies
in its search for the beautiful. Castles, with turreted towers,
ever and anon keep peeping out, as the boat proceeds, from the
sylvan woods which hide them, a sort of stolen glance. The
glowing Italian sky, the azure of which is almost unknown to
those who are accustomed to the unkind climate of England 5
the water of an indescribable blue, the delicious purity of the
atmosphere, and the silver streaks of sunlight cast upon the lake
heighten the beauty of the scene. The finest prospects are near
Bellaggio.
The tour of the lake can be made either from Colico or Como.
Colico is simply a station for diligences. They run twice
daily to Chiavenna for the Splugen route; also to Sondrio and
Bormio. Steamers from Como twice daily.
Menaggio (Hotel Victoria) is a popular halting-place.
The scenery is exquisite. It also contains the Villa Vigoni,
near the town, with some modem works of art of great beauty j
reliefs by Thorwaldsen ; monument to the son of the late pro-
prietor, by Marchesij and a family group, by Argend, The
large silkworm manufactory is of great interest.
. From Menaggio to Lugano, by omTAW*& «xA ^\aKccket» >s» -^si.
easy and pieasant journey.
19 2
THE ITALIAN LAKES.
The tour of the three principal lakes maj be made thus :^
Menaggio to Lugano, Lake of Lugano, Lugano to Luino, Lago
Maggiore. For this tour a special circular ticket Is provided by
Tbos. Cook and Son.
Bella ggio (Hotel Grand Bretagne, with the Dependence
Hotel Pension, Villa Serbelloni. The hotel is one of the finest
in the Italian Lake districts ; the Pension is the gem of the
neighbourhood.)
Bellaggio is charmingly situated where the lake divides into
two arms. The magnificent park and gardens of the Villa
Serbelloni form one of the finest attractions of the place. Ad-
mission one franc to those not staying at the Hotel. At the
Villa Melzi arc many works of art by Canova^ Thorwaldsen,
Marched, etc.
From Bellaggio to Lecco a steamer runs daily.
Cadenabbia (Grand Hotel Belle Vue) is justly popular
with invalids and others. The Villa Carlotta contains some
wonderful works by Thorwaldsen, and Canova, Monte C re-
done can be ascended in about eight hours.
Several places of more or less interest and beauty are passed.
Between Moltrasio and Cernobbio is the Villa d'Este»
now the Hotel Regina d'Inghilterra, where Queen Caroline,wife
of George IV., resided. This is a capital centre for excursions j
the grounds are very fine. (Cook's coupons accepted).
Como (Hotel Regina d'Inghilterra, see above) — popula
tion, 21,000 — lies at the extreme end of this arm of the lake, and
is backed by fine hills and mountains. It is celebrated as being
the birthplace of Pliny the Elder and the Younger. The latter
had several villas in the neighbourhood. Volta, the electrician,
and Pazzi, the astronomer, were also bom here.
The Cathedral, built in 1396, is entirely of marble, and
is a remarkably handsome church. The fagade is very rich.
Statues of the two Pliny s by the principal entrance.
In the interior the principal paintings are —
The Marriage of the Virgin • . • . G. Ferrari.
The Flight into Egypt Ibid.
Adoration of Magi B. Luino.
Virgin and Child, with saints .... Hid.
There are some fine altarpieces in the church j the one with
St. Joseph and the young Saviour is the last work of Marched,
and one of his best.
The Town Hall (BroVe^td) ^i^^om^ ^^ ^Na^- \V\%>wS54l
THE ITALIAN LAKES. 153
of black and white stone, in alternate layers. The Theatre is
on the other side of the church.
The churches S, Fedele, loth century 5 Del Crocifisso, with,
miraculous crucifix 3 and S. Abondio, nth century, on outskirts
of town, are worth visiting.
Notice a massive ruined building, the Porta del Tozze. It is
five stories high^ and is passed in leaving the town to go towards
Camerlata.
From Como to Camerlata is a little more than a mile
and a half. Omnibuses run to meet each train.
THE LAKE OF LUGANO
is sixteen miles by about two ; the scenery is varied and beau-
tiful. It can be reached from Menaggio on Lake of Como^ or
Magadino or Luino, on the Lago Maggiore.
Steamers run from Porlezza to Lugano (Hotel du Pare).
Behind the latter town is Monte San Salvatore, scalable
in two hours. The view is superb.
Monte Generoso, called the Rigi of Italy, is best ascended
from Mendrisio, on the road to Como. The view of the Italian
lakes and the Alpine chain beyond is unrivalled.
THE LAKE OF VARE8E,
reached either from Laveno (Lago Maggiore) or from Como, is
about six miles by five. Varese (Hotel Varese) is the prin-
cipal place, from which the chief excursion is to the pilgrimage
church of La Madonna del Monte.
THE LAKE OF ORTA
is best reached by omnibus or diligence from Pallanza, Gravellonay
or Arona. It is exceedingly pretty, eight miles long by nearly
two broad.
The principal thing to see at the quaint town of Orta is the
Sacro Monte, sacred to S. Francis d'Assisi, with its twenty
frescoed chapels, passed during the ascent. The island of
S. Giuliois a delicious little spot
LAGO DM8E0 AND LAGO Dl GARDA
are both within easy reach by diligence from Brescia. Both are
very beautiful. Iseo is sixteen miles by two\ ^Jafc^&^^^^^asasKk
are Sarnico^ Iseo (named from a lemp\boi\iY^>«sAVKr5i«^^>
194
THE ITALIAN LAKES.
8o enthusiastically described by Lady Maiy Wortley Montagu.
Lago di Garda is thirty-eight miles by six or seven, and appal-
lingly deep, 1900 English feet having been fathomed in some
places, and it may be found to be deeper yet. It is often assailed
by. storms, and is then as rough as the Mediterranean.
Omnibuses run to the lake from Peschiera and Desenzano.
Many very popular and charming places are located on its shore.
(For fuller information as to the Italian Lakes, see ''Cook's
Tourist's Handbook for Northern Italy.")
APPENDIX.
FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC.
[Some time since, a good article in MacmillarCs Magazine called
attention to the want of a Traveller's Calendar, which should
indicate the principal Festivals, etc., on the Continent of Europe.
The present list is founded upon the data given in that article,
and it is hoped it will be useful to the traveller. The Editor
will feel much indebted to those of his friends who will kindly
favour him with information of other events of interest to add to
the list.]
Place. Date. Description.
Adelsberg Whit-Monday... Peasants' Ball in the Caverns. Ulumi-
nated.
Aiz - la- Cha - July 10-24 Exhibition of Relics m Cathedral every
pelle 7 years. Next Exhibition, 1881.
Whitsun-week . The ** Niederrheinische Musikfest"
Amsterdam ... 2nd Monday in Festivities of the Kermesse commence><.
Sept and continue for a fortnight
Anneoy (Savoy) Jan. 29. Festival of St. Francis de Sales.
Antwerp Sunday follow- Kermesse, Procession of Giant in
ing Aug. 15... Rubens' Car.
Carnival lor three days preceding Ash-
Wednesday.
Assisi Aug. I and 2 ... Grand Festivals.
Oct 14 Festival of St Francis.
Augsburg April 10 Commencement of Fair, which con*
tinues for a fortnight.
Avellino Whit-Sunday . . . Pilgrimage to Monte Vei^ne. Popuktf
Fetes. At Mercogliano, dances oi
peasants. (5 days.)
Bari (S. Ita?j j... liliy.... S, Nicholas, Pilgrimage to shrinew
Miraculous m^ima exuded.
ffasle Attg. 2 5 Commemoration of b»X^^ ^^ ^fi^
BatersalpfSnit^ Jii]y25thorSun- 'Wits^iiks^UA.vSb!^
zerlsBd) , my folL iVuig.
196 APPENDIX.
Place. ^ Date. Description.
Beaucaire (on July Great Fair. (Beaucaire is near Tans-
Rhone) con.)
Bergamo Middle Aug. to Fair.
middle Sept
Black Forest. End Aug., be- "Raft Parties "at V^dbad and else*
ginning Sept where^
Bologna Dec. 3 St. Francis Xavier. Fete at Sta. Lucia.
Bra Sept 8 Pilgrimage to Sanctuaxy of Madonna
dei Fiore.
Bremen Nov. 6 Festival
Bruges- ist Sun. in Lent Great day of the CamivaL
1st Sun. in May Festival
Brussels Jan. 8 Ste, GuduU. Festival at Ste. Gudule.
July 13 or Sim- Procession of miraculous wafers in Ste;
day following. Gudule.
Sept 23 Requiem Mass in Ste. Gudule. FStes
de Septembre from 23 — 26.
Canoello (S. July 26 Annual Festival in honour of S. Pan-
Italy) linus, who invented church beDs.
Games, processions, etc.
Catania (Sicily) Feb. 3-5 Festival of Sta. Agata.
Aug. 18-21 „ ^ „
Colre (Chur) ... Ascension Day . Popular Fetes.
Cologne Carnival for three days before 'Ash*
Wednesday.
Whitsun-week . The " Neiderrheinische Musikfest"
Courtrai (Bd- Carnival for three days before Ai^«
gium) Wednesday.
Binsiedeln Jan. 21 Festival of St Meinrad.
(Switzerland)
Sept 14 Festival of the Engjel Weihe. Mass out
of doors. Illuminations.
Bngstlenalp July 26th or Sun-
(nr. Meiringen) day following. Wrestling Matches.
Bnnetegg (in Lt. Sun. in Aug.,
the EntTebuch) istSun.inSep. Wrestling Match.
]|florence Easter Eve Fireworks in Piazza del Duomo. "Lo
scoppio del Carro."
March 25 Annunciation, Festival at Annunziata
Church.
June 23 Eve of St. John, Races and Firewoiks.
„ 24 St. John Baptist, High Mass in
Duomo. Races. Illuminations.
Aug. 10 St. Lorenzo. Festival in all Churches in
Italy bearing his name.
„ 15 Assumption of Virgin. Musical Ser-
vices. Decorations.
Sept 8 Nativity of Virgin. * * Rificplone," and
d^coxaUoti of street altars.
CanaN«\ vttc«^>3a% VkoSu
FESTIVALS, FETES/ FAIRS, ETC igy
Place. Date. Description;
Genazz&no April 26 Pilgrimages.
(Sabine Hills)
Genoa Jiuie24 St, yohn BafHst, Relics carried in
procession m Cathedral
Gtonzano . (near Corpus Christi • Floral Festival — ^very picturesque.
Albano)
Ghent 2nd Sunday in FestiyaL Kermesse.
July.
Grrats Aug. 12 Pilgrimage to MariazelL- - • - -
Gravina(S. Italy) April 20 Great Fair.
Hal (Belgium)... A^t-Monday... Pilgrimages.
IieipsiO Jan. I Fair commences.
' Sept 29 Fair.
2nd Simday after Great Fair b^^ins. Lasts three weekfc
Easter.
Idege Feb. 10 Musical Festival commemorating bittt
of Gr6tiy.
lK>Oamo Sept 8 Nativity of Virgin.^ Fair.
IiOreto v.. Dec 10 Great Festival at the " Holy House."
IiOUyain Feb. 9 St, Apollonia* Festival
• May 26 Pilgrimages.
2nd Simday in Festival
July.
XiUOeme..' Sunday after Festival at Tell's Chapel Crowds in
Ascension. boats.
Thursday before Quaint and curious procession.
Ash- Wed.
Iitigo (near Ra- Sept 1-19 Fair.
venna)
•MalineB •• July Festival of the Guilds every five years.
Next in 1879.
1st Sun. in July St, JRombauld. Festival
Manfredonia May 8 Pilgrimage to Church of St Michael
(nearFoggia) ^. ..^
IH ftTitTift Aug. 15 Assumption of Virgin. Pilgrimage to
Sta. Maria deUe Grazie.
^KarseiUes June 16 ........ Festival of Sacred Heart, commemo-
rating the staying of the plague*
172a
Aug. 15 Assumption of the Virgini Procession
r ' . of the silver statue.
Mesaina J^^ne 3 Festival of the Madonna della Lettera.
Aug. 15 Assumption of Virgin. Festival of "La
Vara."
Meiringen ist Sunday in Wrestling matches at the Stadtalp, and
August on Aug. 10 at the Tannalp.
ynan May 3 Invention of the Cross. Procession
f"' through the city. • ■ ^
Not* 4 San Carlo JBorYomco* ^t»S!^"^>^»*
Ij8 APPENDIX.
Place. Date. Description.
Monoalieii Oct 29. Nov. Cattle Fair.
(near Turin) 14.
Mnnioh. Monday before The "Metzersprung** — a curious paw
Ash- Wed. formance.
Good Friday. Pergolesi's Stabat Mater at Jesuit^
Church.
Corpus Christi . Procession of Guilds, Open-air s^-
vices.
TXsipl&B 1st Sun. in May Liquefaction of Blood of St Januarius.
Sept 19 to 26 . „ „ Great Festival
Dec. 16 „ Feast of his ** Patrocinio"
1st Sun. in June Festival of the Constitution. Fireworks
at Villa Nazionale.
Aug. 15 Assumption of Virgin, Festival at
Capodimonte.
M „ Pilgrimi^
to Massa Lubrense^ near Sorrento.
Ascension Day . Fetes at Scarfati and Carditello.
Corpus Christi . Festival at Sta. Chiara. Parade of
troops.
Jan. 17 Festeai St Antonio Abate. Blessing
of domestic animals.
Sept 8 Nativity of Virgin, Festival of the
Vergine de Piedegrotta.. A variety
of curious entertainments, induding
the Tarantella dance.
Dec. 24 "Presepe" (i.ft, manger) in all churches
and houses.
Whit-Sunday... Festival at Avellino.
Whit-Monday... „ Shrine of Madonna dell' AroQi.
Easter Sunday . Pilgrimage to Antignano.
J^epoxnulc May 16 Pilgrimage to birthplace of St John
Nepomuk (between Prague and Nu-
remberg).
Vivello(BeIgium) Whit-Monday... Procession.
Ober-Axnmer- ist Sunday in And each succeeding Sunday till end of
gau June September. Passion Play. Every 10
years. Next representation, iS8a
Ostond Corpus Christi . Blessing the sea.
Padua Jan. 17 St, Anthony, Festival
Palermo Julyii-15 Festival of Sta. Rosalia. Cathedral
illuminated on last day of festival.
Sept. 4 Pilgrimage to Monte Pellegrino.
Paris Jan. I Circumcision, General holiday. Dis-
play of iStrennes.
Nov. 2 AllSouU. Crowds visit P^re la Cluuse.
.Pesth Aug. 20 Festival of St Stephen of Hunmy.
JRiffS ..« June 16 Festival of "Xa Luminara." Oroefil
three years.
FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC viog
Place. Date. Description.
Prague May 16-24 Sf. ^hn Nepomuk, Grand Festival
Pilgrimages. Mass on great bridge.
Sept 28 Festival of St Wenceslaus.
BapallO (near July 2-4 Festival of Madonna dell' Orto. II-
Genoa) lumination of the coast
Sigi July 22 Pilgrimage to church on Rigu Wrest-
ling Matches.
Aug. 5 Pilgrimage to Chapel Maria Zum
Schnee, KlosterlL
Sept 6 „ „ ,',
Aug. 10 Wrestling Matches at Kaltbad.
Bono [Note. — Many of the festivals have been altered, aban-
doned, or become irr^ular, since Rome has become
the capital of Italy. Those marked with an asterisk
are still observed with great pomp.]
Jan. I CtV«<»KTyip«. "Papal Chapel" (t.^., ser-
vice at which the Pope is present) at
the Sistine. Curious ceremony at
Sta. Maria in Campitelli — drawing
for patron saints.
f, 5 Fair of the Befano. St Eustachia
,, 6 Epiphany, Ara Coeli Church; pro-
cession. Benediction with the Sante
Bambino from top of steps. Services in
various churches throughout octave.
„ 17 St, Anthony s Day, Blessing the beas^
„ 18 Chair of St Peter. Procession wiA
Pope, in St. Peter's.
^,20 St, Sebastian. Festival at Sant' Andrea
della Valle.
„ 21 *St, Agnes, Blessing the lambs, at Sta.
Agnese fiiori Mura.
,,25 ^Conversionof St, Paul. Exhibition of
his chains at San Paolo.
Feb, I *St, Ignatius, The interesting subter-
ranean Church of San Clemente
illuminated.
„ 2 Purification, Procession with candles
in St Peter's.
March 9 Sta, Francesca Rotnana, Fete at the
Tor de* SpecchL
„ 12 St, Gregory, Festival at S. Gregoria
„ 19 St, Joseph, Festival of S. Giuseppe.
„ 25 * Annunciation, Papal ChapeL JPro-
cession of white mule. Sta. MEuria
sopra Minerva.
April 23 St, George, Exhibition of relics S.
Giorgio in Velabro.
„ 25 •5f. Mark. '^xowsBtfSii^x^ax'Siu^JKSe'*'
aoO APPENDIX,
pLAci. Date. Dbsoliption.
QQIII0 April 30 ^/. CaM«rM^. Festival at the MinennL
May 3 ^Invention of the Cross, Exhibition of
relics at Sante Crooe.
„ 26 *St. FUippoNeru Papal Chappl» Chiesa
Nuova. (The rooms occupied by the
saint are open on this day.)
June 24 * St. John Baptist, Papal Chapel at the
I^teran. Fine musical service, and
oh previous evening.
„ 28 Eve of St. Feter. Papal Chapel, St
Peter's. Dome illuminated.
M 29 *St, Peter, The Pope performs H^
Mass in St Peter's. At Lat&ran
exhibition of relics. Fireworks on
Monte Pincio, etc.
Throughout the octave the Mamertine
Prisons are illuminated.
June 31 St, Ignatius Loyola. Festival at the
Gesi^.
Aug. I *St. Peter's Chains. Festival at S.
Pietro in VinculL
„ 4 St. Dominic, Fdte at the Minerva.
«9 5 Sta. Maria ad Nives. Cardinal's Chapel
{ue.^ service at which the Cardinal
is present) at Sta. Maria Maggiore.
During the function white flowers are
showered from the roof of the Bor-
ghese Chapel.
«, 15 * Assumption of the Virgin, Sta. Maria
Maggiore. High Mass, in presence of
( the Pope. Benediction from balcony.
Sept 8 * Nativity of Virgin, Papal Chapel at
Sta. Maria del Popolo.
1st Sunday in Rosary Sunday. Procession from the
October. Minerva. Fdtes, etc., throughout the
month on Sundays and Thursdays at
Monte Testaccio.
Nov. I *All Saints, Feast at S. Lorenza
Curious scenes in the cemeteries
throughout the octave.
«, 4 * San Carlo Borromeo, Papal Chapel at
San Carlo in Corso.
„ 22 ^Sta. Cecilia, Festival at Sta. Cecilia.
Illumination of Cs^tacomb .of St
Calixtus, where St Cecilia was
buried.
g, 23 *St, Clemente, Festival and illumioa-
tions, Subterranean Church of S>
Dec 3 £<• Francis XcEuier. ^^^\3a&Gesd,
FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC 201
Place. Date. Description,
20X110 ••> ' Dec. 4 Military Mass at Sta. Maria Ttuopoitp
tina. . Fete of artillerymen.
„ 8 Immaculate Conceptum, Papal Chapel
in the Sistine.
„ 24 Christmas Eve. Procession of Holy
crib in Sta. Maria Maggiore. Night
services at Sistine, Vatican, etc
y, 25 Christmas Day. Pope performs High
Mass at St. Peter's. Festival of the
"Presepe" at the Ara CceK. Ser-
mons by boys for ten subsequent
days.
„ 26 St. Stephen. Fete, San Stefano Ro-
tondo. " Te Deum " at the Gesu.
Pope and Cardinals present.
„ 27 St. John the Evangelist, St John
Lateran.
„ 31 St. Sylvester. At his church, and "Te
Deum " at the Gesu.
Holy Week ... Noble ladies wash the feet of pilgrims
1 each evening at the Trinita dei Pelle-
grinu
Wednesday. The " Tenebrae" — an in-
teresting service, at which the lights
are gradually extinguished while the
story of the Passion is rehearsed.
** Miserere* sung in the Sistine ChapeL
Pope present.
Thursday. Sistine Chapel, High Mass.
Procession of the Pope to the Pauline
Chapel, which is illuminated. St
Peters — ^the Pope blesses the peoplb
from the balcony : washes the feet
of thirteen priests ; serves thirteen
priests at table. "Tenebrae" and
' * Miserere ** in Sistine. Illuminatiop
of the various chapels.
Good Friday. ** Tenebrae" and "Mise-
rere." Adoration of relics in St
Peter's by the Pope.
Saturday. Jews baptized in baptistery
of Constantine. In the evening, ser-
vice at St. Peter's.
Etster Sunday. Pope borne to St Peter's, where. he
celebrates Mass. Blowing of the
silver trumpets. Benediction fron
202 APPENDIX.
Place. ^ Date. DEsciaPTio^ it
BoniO Easter Monday. Fetes, fireworks, etc.
Carnival Begins Saturday- week before Ash Wed*
nesday, and continues till Shro?e
Tuesoay. Masquerades and liorse>
racing daily. On the last ereningi
lighting and blowing out tapers.
Ash Wednesday Ashes are sprinkled on the heads of the
Cardinals in St Peter's. HighMus;
3rd Sunday in Exhibition of relics at San Lorenza
Lent
4th Monday in Feast of the Santa Quattro IncoroDati
Lent at their Basilica.
Palm Sunday ... The Pope carried round St Petei^Si
Consecration of Palms.
Rogation Days . Processions.
Ascension Day . Papal Chapel at Lateran. Benediction
by the Pope from the balcony.
[The Great National Festas, celebrated with musics
illuminations, etc, etc., are —
1st Sunday in Celebration of the Constitution.
June.
Sept 20 Anniversary of the Liberation of Rome.
Processions, etc.
Oct 2 Anniversary of the Plebiscite.
Etc, etc, etc
[Every visitor should consult the Calendar, and also local authorities, as
there is scarcely a day when there is not some ecclesiastical celebra^
tion of interest going forward somewhere in Rome].
SftOhseln July 26 Wrestling Matches. (Sachseln isnetf
Sandeuy on the Brunig, Switzerland.)
Sohopfheim June 29 Wrestling Matches.
(Switzerland)
Sept 29 „ „
1st Sunday in
Oct „ „
Beealp (near July 6 Or Sunday following that date. Wiest-
Appenzel) ling Matches.
Sempaoh (near „ 8 Commemoration of victory on battte*
Lucerne) field.
Siena April 30 St, Catherine, Festival.
July 2 & Aug. 16 Horse Races (II Palio).
Sinigaglia October Great Fair.
(S. ItiUy)
Borrento Aug. 15 Fete at S. Maria a Castella Hlmnini-
tion of Positano.
BpeSlB tt Assumption of Virgiiu Festival at tlie
C\xaiO[L ol ^^tlAAdotma di Soviore.
FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC 20$
tiALZ Date. Description.
St. Moritz Sept 21 nimninations.
(Switzerland)
„ 22 Festival and High Mass at AT)bey off
St Moritz.
Stadtalp (near ist Sunday in Wrestling Match.
Meiringen) Aug.
Stuttgart Sept 28 Volksfest at Cannstadt
Tannalp (near Ai^. 10 Wrestling Match.
Meiringen)
Tivoli May8 S, Michde. Festival.
Trent (Trento) June 26 Festival of S. Vigilius.
Trieste Corpus Christ! Processions. Festivals.
Turin SeptS NaiwUy of Virgin. Festival on the
Supeiga.
TJetliborg (Zii- Ascension Day Children's Fete,
rich) ■
Var8&lo(Lakeof Aug. 15 Assumption of Virgin. Pilgrimage to
Orta) the Sacro Monte.
Venice April 25.... StrMarJis, Grand Festival
[Festivals on all the Saints* Days, and
a- variety of Fetes of local interest]
Vienna May i Popular Fete in the Au^arten.
June 28 Pilgrims leave for Manazell (reached
from Bru'ck on the Semmering Rail-
way).
July 6 ^ Pilgrims return from Mariazell.
Sept 4 .,.. Sta, Rosalia. Pilgrimage to Rosalien
Chapel.
,, 8 ......... Public Holiday at Mariabrunn, a short
distance from Vienna.
Good Friday ... H6ly Sepulchre in all the Churches.
Easter Eve Great Procession of the Court in Im-
perial Palace.
Easter Monday. Pilgrimage to Antignano.
Corpus Christi . Processions, Festivals, etc.
Vire (Normandy) Aug. 10 Fete des Drapiers.
Vlsardingen June 14 Prayers for successofthe herring fishery.
(Holland)
.,, 15 General Holiday. Fleet of herring
boats set saiL
Wengem Alp ist Sunday in Wrestling Match.
Aug.
Ypres (Belgium) ist Sunday in Festival.
Aug. ■
204
APPSNDiaC.
SWISS ELEVATIONS.
The following is a comparative account of the height (in feet
above the sea level) of some of the well-known places in
Switzerland -referred to in the present work : —
Piz Languard
Gomdr Grat
Faulhom ..:
Riffel Hotel
Lauberhom
Furca
Grimsel ' ...
Rothhom ...
Niesen
Bemina Pass
Albula Pass
Julier Pass ...
Spliigen Pass
St Gothard Pass
Bellevue HotdySVengem Alp
Engadine ...
Rigi
Rhone Glacier (lower)
Miirren
Zermatt
Rosenlaui Glacier
Andermatt...
Maderaner Thai
Comballaz ...
Rosenlaui ...
T6te Noire Hotel
Crrindelwald
•••
•••
...
•••
•••
•••
•••
•••
.••
Chamouny ...
Briinig Pass
Engelberg ...
Lauterbfunnen
Meiringen ...
Interlaken ...
Lucerne
Geneva
•••
•••
•••
•0*
• ••
• * .
10,715
• •• ....
• ••
...
• . *
• ••
10,290
8,803
. 8428
wtrt
...
8,I2Q
***
• ••
7,992
7,936
• *.
• •*
• *.
• ••
• •«
• ••
• ••
7,917
7,763
7,658
7,589
• ••
• «•
7,503
<••
• ••
6,945
...
)
• ••
• ••
6,936
6,788
*••
• ••
6,100
• *•
• •*
5,905
• ••
• •*
5,742
• ••
...
5,347
• ••
• •«
5,315
• •»
...
5,027
• •.
...
4,900
• ••
•*•
• ••
• •*
4,500
4,416
• ••
• •*
4,397
. «•
• ••
4,oo3v
• ••.
• a.
3,773
• ••
...
3,445
• «*
• . •
3,379
• ••
• * .
3,291
• *.
*••
2,730
• ••
• ••
...
...
2,224
1,837
• ••
• ••
1,437
•••
• ••
1,230
IMPORTANT NOTICE.
Thomas Cook and Son's tickets are available for
one or more passengers to travel by any train any day, and
do not compel the holders to travel in parties.
^ropmme of |[oiites.
TIME AND COST OF A TOUR.
IN order to help the Tourist to arrange a route, to show how
time may be economized, and, above all, to give him some
notion as to the approximate cost of a tour to Switzerland,
we append a few examples. It must be borne in mind, however,
that the costs of travelling are liable to constant change, and
therefore the Tourist will do well to consult the last number of
" Cook's Excursionist " (published monthly, price 2d.) ; or, if
he cannot from that source obtain the exact information re-
quired, if the precise itinerary of the tour contemplated be for-
warded to Messrs. CoOK & Son, Chief Office, Ludgate Circus,
E.C., with stamped directed envelope for a reply, a special
quotation will be sent by first post.
In CALCULATING EXPENSES, nothing will be said here about
hotel accommodation, or about the luxuries of travel Of
course, it depends entirely on the taste of the individual, and
his habits, as to whether expenses in this respect be great or
small What we wish to denote is the actual travelling expense
and the actual expenditure of time, necessary for a tour in
Switzerland. A tour may be a very expensive matter as regards
time and money, if the traveller thinks well to make it so ; but
this is by no means a necessity. A fortnight, three weeks, or
a, month, will suffice, as regards time ; and the travelling
expenses will be within the tnaaxis oi ^Sl otdlnary Tourists.
Full particulars as to hotel accoTSMaod^^LvyDL\^\ifc Sksvscc^ks^
SPECIMENS OF TOURS.
207
Whenever in the foUowmg illustrations guides or carriages
are mentioned, the expense is not included in the estimate
given, except in the case of the T^te Noire or Col de Balme.
Route No. I. A Fourteen Days' Tour.
Allowing time to visit Geneva, Chamouny, Mont Blanc
1st day.^'LoxAon to Paris, via Calais, 11 hours.
2nd day, — Paris to Geneva, 13J hours.
y^dday.^^Aa Geneva.
4/^ day, — Trip on the Lake.
^th i/iijy,— Geneva to Chamouny by diligence.
6th day, — Chamouny. Ascend to Montanvert ; cross the Mer
de Glace to the Chapeau ; descend to source of the Arveiron.
(Guide over Mer de Glace ; trifling fee.)
Jth day, — At Chamouny.
Zih d?<jy.— Chamouny to Martigny, by the T6te Noire or Col
de Balme.*
9/^ day, — Visit Gorge du Trient j rail to Lausanne.
loih day, — Lausanne and environs.
nth ^^. —Lausanne to Berne, breaking the journey in order
to spend a few hours at Fribourg.
i2th day.—BtxTiQ to Neuchitel, 3J hours,
13/A day,—\^t\xchk\jd to Paris.
i^ih day. — Paris to London.
Approximate cost: First class throughout, ;£ 11 los. ; second
class, £^,
Route No. IL A Fortnight's Tour.
Allowing time to visit the finest scenery of the Bernese
Oberland.
1st day. — Leave London for Paris by morning train, 11
hours, via Calais.
* In going to Martigny from Chamouny the T6te Noire is the prefet«.U&
route. From Martigny to Chamouny the CoV 6ft '^a2afift\& t^R»ts^(&s:Qi&s^
ao8 APPENDIX.
2nd day.-^Taxis to Basle by Troyes and Mulhous^ 12}
hours.
3rd day.^^Explore Basle in early morning ; then Basle to
Lucerne, 3J hours.
4M day, — In Lucerne (ascend Rigi or Pilatus).
5M dajy, — Tour of the Lake of Lucerne.
6/ih day, — Lucerne to Meiringen, over the Briinig Pass.
7M daj^, — On foot to Falls of the Reichenbach, Rosenlaui
Glacier, Great Scheideck, Grindelwald, Little Scheideck.
StA day. — ^Wengem Alp, Lauterbrunnen and Staubbach
Falls ; carriage from thence to Interlaken.
gtA day. — Spend morning in Interlaken; return ticket to
Brienz, to visit Falls of the Giessbach.
\oth day. — Interlaken to Darligen by train ; Darligen to
Thun by boat ; Thun to Berne by rail.
wth day. — In Berne.
\7.th day. — Berne to Geneva, breaking journey at Fribourg
or Lausanne, 5 hours.
i^th day. — In Geneva.
\\th day. — To Paris.
\^th day. — Paris to London.
Approximate cost : First class throughout, about £,\l\
second class, £,% los.
No provision is made in this estimate for mule, or other means tA ooa*
veyance from Meiringen to Interlaken.
Route No. III. A Fortnight's Tour.
1st day, — London to Paris (via Dieppe).
7.nd day. — Paris to Basle.
3rd day, — Basle to Schaffhausen, 3J hotu^; Falls of the
Rhine.
i^h day. — Schaffhausen to Constance, 2 hours ; Lake of
Constance.
S^A day^ — To Ziirich, choice of routes.
. 6tk day, — ^At Zurich.
SPECIMENS OF TOURS.
209
^1h day, — Zurich to Lucerne, 2 hours ; at Lucerne.
Zth /&_y.— Trip on Lake of Lucerne to Fliielen and back.
9M day, — Lucerne to Brienz ; over the Briinig Pass ; stay at
Falls of the Giessbach.
\oth day, — Interlaken.
I \tk day. — Rail to Darligen : steamboat on Lake of Thun ;
rail to Berne.
\2th day, — In Berne.
I'^thday, — Rail to Paris by Neuchitel, Pontarlier, and
Dijon.
14M day, — In Paris.
15M day. — ^To London.
Cost: First class throughout, ;^ii 7s. ; second class, £7 15s.
Route No. IV. A Three Weeks* Tour,
Visiting Falls of the Rhine, Bernese Oberland, Chamouny,
and Mont Blanc.
1st and 2nd days, — London to Basle (via Dieppe and Paris).
y^d day. — Basle to Schaff hausen.
4/// day, — Schaffhausen to Ziidch.
Ith day, — Ziirich to Lucerne.
6th day, — Ascend Rigi.
jth day, — Trip on Lake to Fliielen and back.
%th day. — From Lucerne to Meiringen, by the Briinig Pass.
9M day. — On foot to Falls of Reichenbach,Rosenlaui Glacier,
Great Scheideck, Grindelwald, and Little Scheideck.
lotk day, — Wengem Alp, Lauterbrunnen (see Staubbach
Falls) : carriage from thence to Interlaken.
I ith day, — In Interlaken. Falls of Giessbach.
12th day,--K3A\ to Darligen; boat to Thun; rail to Berne.
13M day, — To Lausanne, visiting Fribourg, en route,
i4tA day, — Trip on Lake to visit Vevey ; Chillon ; thence to
Bouveret for Martigny; s^op^^ route to visit Gorge du Trient.
15/A day, — Martigny to Chamouny by Col da li^isKkfc^^x'^^^
Noire.
210 APPENDIX.
16/A day.'^Kx. Chamouny.
1 7M ^j'.— Diligence to Geneva.
\%tk day. — Geneva.
19M day, — Geneva.
20th day, — ^To Paris.
^istday^—lo London.
Cost : First class throughout, ;f 12 19s. ; second class,
£^\o 8s.
RoxTTE No. V. A Three Weeks' Tour,
Visiting Belgium, the Rhine, and Switzerland.
Leave London for Antwerp by evening train ; arrive there in
early morning of
\st day, --Pa Antwerp.
2nd day, — To Brussels, 2 hours. Brussels.
yd day,— Trip to Waterloo, etc.
4M day, — Brussels to Cologne, 7 hours.
5M day» — ^Up the Rhine to Bingen or Mayence,
6th day,-— To Heidelberg.
yfk day, — Baden-Baden.
8M day, — To Strassburg ; visit Cathedral, etc.. and then pro-
ceed to Basle.
gfk day .—At B2Lsle.
loth day, — Basle to Lucerne, 3 J hours. Lucerne.
nth day,— "Lyxctm^ ; trip on Lake to Fliielen and back.
I2tk day. — Lucerne ; ascend Rigi or Pilatus, etc.
i^th day.—Yrova Alpnach to Brienz by diligence ; steamer
from Brienz to Giessbach ; stay night there, and see the Falls
illuminated.
14/A ^j'.— Steamer to Interlaken.
15/A day.PLi Interlaken ; trip to Grindelwald, etc.
i6th <il^.' Interlaken to Berne.
17 tk day.—Bem^ to Lausanne.
j8//f day. — Ouchy to Geneva by boat.
X9/5I ^a^.— Geneva.
SPECIMENS OF TOURS. ^if
2Gth day.^To Paris.
2ist' day, — To London, via Calais.
Cost : First class throughout, £i/^ ; second dass, ;f li
Route No. VI. A Three Weeks* Tour,
Visiting Belgium, the Rhine, and Switzerland.
1st day to \oth day, — As in Route V.
i\th ^j'.- Ascend Rigi. etc.
\7,th //^y.— Lucerne to Fliielen by steamboat ; diligence to
Andermatt.
13M day,—^y the Furca Pass to Brigue ; rail to Martigny.
i\th day,— By the Col de Balme or T6te Noire to Chamouny.
15M day, — ^At Chamouny.
i6tk day, — At Chamouny.
17M day, — To Geneva, by diligence.
18M day, — Geneva.
igtk day. — Trip on the Lake of Geneva.
2otA day.— To Paris.
2ist day,— To London, via Calais.
Approximate cost : First class, £15 ; second class, ;f 11 i8s.
Route No. VII. A Month's Tour,
Visiting the principal places in Switzerland leisurely.
Same as Route No. IV.
Cost, same as Route No IV.
Roxtte No. VIII. A Month's Tour,
Including a visit to the principal places in Switzerland and the
Italian Lakes.
1st day.^To Paris (via Calais).
2nd day,— To Basle.
9ia^
APPENDIX.
yrd day, — To SchaHhausen.
4M day, — Zurich.
Ith day, — By rail to Coire.
(dh ^j'.— Diligence to Chiavenna," over the Spliigen.
^th day, — Chiavenna to Colico, diligence ; Colico to Bellaggio
by steamer.
%th day, — At Bellaggio.
9/A day, — ^To Como.
\oth day, — To Menaggio, boat ; and Lugano (Lake of
Lugano), diligence.
iithday^ — Lugano to Luino, diligence; thence to Laveno,
Baveno, or Stresa, on the Lago Maggiore.
i2ih and 13/A days, — Still in the same neighbourhood.
14M and iifh ^fe^j.— From Baveno, by the Simplon Pass> to
Brigue.
idth //^fiy.— Rail to Martigny.
\Tth day,^By Col de Balme to Chamouny.
iSth day, — At Chamouny.
igt/i day, — At Chamouny.
20th day, — Diligence to Geneva.
list day, — Genevi.
22nd day, — Lake of Geneva to Lausanne.
2y^dday,'^'YQ Berne.
2\th day,—'L3ke of Thun to Interlaken.
25/^ day. — Interlaken ; boat to Giessbach Falls.
26/A day,— Over the Briinig to Lucerne.
2'jtk day.^-ljictmt, (If there should be thirty-one days in
the month spend two days here.)
2Zth day,— To Basle.
29/^ day, — To Paris,
2,0th day, — To London.
Cost: First class throughout, for one calendar month|
£iZ IIS. ; second class, ;£ 1 5 los.
SPECIMENS OF TOURS.
«i3
Route No. IX. A Four Weeks^ Tour,
Visiting Holland, Belgium, the Rhine, Black Forest, and
principal places in Switzerland.
Leave London by evening train for Antwerp, arriving theie in
early morning of
1st day, — Antwerp.
2nd day, — ^Antwerp.
y^d day, — ^To Brussels, 2 hours.
4/^ day.— BtmssqIs ; drive to Waterloo, or train.
Ith day, — Brussels to Cologne, 7 hours.
6th day, — Up the Rhine; ascend Drachenfels; stay at
Coblenz.
yth day.^^Vp the Rhine : to Bingen or Mayence, breaking
journey at St. Goar.
Stk day, — To Heidelberg, by rail.
9M day, — Baden-Baden.
\oih day f ^'^ ^^^^k Forest. Take Baden-States rail from
wth davl Off^^^burg to Hausach, Villingen, Singen, and
^ Schaflfhausen.
I2t/i day, — Schaflfhausen.
13/^ day. — Zurich.
14/A day, — Zurich to Zug and Lucerne.
. i$th day, — Lucerne. Ascend to Rigi or Pilatus.
i6tk day, — Lake of Lucerne to Alpnacht. Diligence to
Brienz and steamer to Giessbach.
lytk day, — Giessbach to Interlaken and Berne.
iStA day, — Berne to Martigny.
igth day.— Over the Col de Balme to Chamouny,
20tA //(fj/.— Chamouny.
2ist ^<!iy.— ^Chamouny,
22«^^/<^y.— Diligence to Geneva.
2^rd day. — Geneva.
24/A <^;^.— Trip on Lake of Geneva.
214 APPENDIX
25M day, — Geneva to Neuch&teL
26M day, — To Paris.
^^th day, — In Paris.
28/A day, — 1
29ilA day, — > To London.
yythday, — J
Fares : First class, £iz IQS- ; second dass, {^w 14s.
Having now shown how to plan a tour for a given time, it
may assist the intending tourist to show a few other specimens
taken at random from a great number of combinations provided
by the tickets of Thomas Cook and Son. It should be clearly
understood that these are but specimens, and are in nowise
arbitrary arrangements, as the traveller can be supplied with
tickets throughout, for any other route he may have decided to
follow.
It is the more necessary to point this out as, formerly, a book
of tickets issued by Thomas Cook and Son necessitated a
continuous journey in the order of issue. This is not now the
case. Take, for example, a point connected with the Bernese
Oberland. Formerly they bad no tickets which would har-
moniously combine the Rhone Valley with the lines leading to
Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, and Grindelwald. They are now
able to supply tickets from various points — Geneva, Berne, or
Basle to Interlaken ; from thence travellers may make their own
way over the range of the Alps by the Baths of Leuk, or any
other Alpine route which they desire to take to the Rhone
Valley, where the tickets again come into operation, taking them
up the valley of the Rhone to the Furca or Simplon Pass, or to
Martigny, St. Bernard, and the Chamouny district. The great
advantage of this system is that there need be no unused cou-
pons, and that the selection may be made in accordance with
the wishes of the traveller ; and, in the event of a coupon not
being required, it will be taken back subject to the conditions on
which unused tickets are accepted. It may be well just to men-
tion that their list of tickets for Switzerland, including railways,
steamboats on the lakes, and diYL^exic.^ otl the Alpine roads
SPECIMENS OF TOURS. ^1^
leading into Italy, amounts to the number of about threescore
and ten, and these can be combined for the selection and choice
of travellers, on certain conditions as to the number of coupons
which they will be required to take.
Paris and Switzerland.
A. — London to Paris, Dijon, Macon, Culoz, Geneva, and
back. Available for one month. Going and returning via
Dieppe: ist class, £S 19s.; 2nd class, £6 12s. Going and
returning via Calais : ist class, ;^io 19s. ; 2nd class, £7 18s.
B.— London to Paris, Dijon, Pontarlier, Neuch&tel, Bemei
Fribourg, Lausanne, Geneva, Culoz, Dijon, Paris, and London^
or vice versa. Available for one month. Via Dieppe : 1st class,
£y i6s. ; 2nd class, £$ 15s. Via Calais: ist class, £g i6s.
2nd class, £y iis.
C— London to Paris, Dijon, Pontarlier, Neuchitel, Berne,
Lausanne, Vevey, Martigny, T^te Noire or Col de Balme to
Chamouny (one mule or one guide), thence diligence via Sal-
lanches to Geneva, rail to Culoz, Dijon, Paris, London, or vice
versa. Available for one month. Via Dieppe : ist class, £g ys. ;
2nd class, £7 4s. Via Calais: ist class, ;^ii 7s.; 2nd class,
£9-
D.— London to Paris, Fontainebleau, Dijon, Macon, Culoz,
Geneva, Lausanne, Fribourg, Berne, Thun, Interlaken, Brienz,
Briinig, Alpnach, Lucerne, Olten, Bienne Neuchitel, Pontarlier,
Dijon, Paris, London, or vice versa. Available for one month.
Via Dieppe : ist class, £<) 6s. ; 2nd class, £(i 17s. Via Calais:
1st class, ;^ii IS. ; 2nd class, £% 13s.
£. — London to Paris, Belfort, Basle, Lucerne, Alpn^h,
Briinig, Brienz, Giessbach, Interlaken, Thun, Berne, Lausanne,
Geneva, Culoz, Dijon, Paris, London, or vice versa. Available
for one month. Via Dieppe: ist class, £% 17s.; 2nd class^
£(> 14s. Via Calais : ist ckss, £10 i6s.\ •rcA^^sa^ f>^^
1
2i6 APPENDIX.
F.— London to Paris, Belfort, Basle, Lucerne, Alpnach,
Briinig, Brienz, Giessbach, Interlaken, Thun, Berne, Lausanne,
Vevey, Martigny, T6te Noire or Col de Balme, Chamouny,
Geneva, Culoz, Dijon, Paris, London, or vice versa. Available
for one month. Via Dieppe : ist class. ;^io 8s. ; 2nd class,
;^8 3s. 6d. Via Calais : ist class, £\2 8s. ; 2nd class, £j^ 19s. 6d«
G. — London to Paris, Belfort, Basle, Lucerne, Fliielen, Hos-
penthal, Furca Pass, Brigue, Visp, Sierre, Martigny, T6te Noire
or Col de Balme, Chamouny, Geneva, Culoz, Dijon, Paris,
London, or vice versa. Available for one month. Via Dieppe:
1st class, £\i i6s. 6d. ; 2nd class, ;^9 9s. 6d. Via Calais : ist
class, ;£i3 i6s. 6d. ; 2nd class, J^w 5s. 6d.
H.— London, Paris, Dijon, Pontarlier, Neuchitel, Berne,
Thun, Interlaken, Brienz, Briinig, Alpnach, Lucerne, Fliielen,
Hospenthal, Furca, Brigue, Visp, Sierre, Martigny, T^te Noire
or Col de Balme, Chamouny, Geneva, Culoz, Dijon, Paris,
London, or vice versa. Available for one month. Via Dieppe :
1st class, J^w IIS.; 2nd class, ;£9 8s. Via Calais: 1st class,
;^I3 los. ; 2nd class, £^\\ 4s.
The Rhine, Black Forest, and Switzerland.
L — London, Harwich, Antwerp, Brussels, Cologne, Rhine
steamer to Mayence, Worms, Heidelberg, Baden-Baden, Offen-
burg, Hausach, Villingen, Singen, Schaffhausen, Ziirich, Zug,
Lucerne, Alpnach, Brienz, Interlaken, Thun, Berne, Fribourg,
Lausanne, Geneva, Paris, Rouen, Dieppe, London, or vice versa,
1st class, ;^ii 19s. 6d.; 2nd class, ;^8 i8s. 9d. i
Same route between Brussels and Paris, but going and
returning via Calais: ist class. £\\ los. 6d. ; 2nd class,
£1 1 OS. 9d.
Going via General Steam Navigation Company's roate to'
Antwerp : ist dass, £1 1 8s. 9d. •, 2iid c\as^, fo o^. ^d.
SPECIMENS OF TOURS. 217
Paris, the Black Forest, Switzerland, and the
Jura.
K.— London, Newhaven, Dieppe, Paris, Nanqr, Strassburg,
Kehl, Offenburg, Villingen, Singen, Constance, Rorschach, St.
Gall, Winterthur, Zurich, Zug, Lucerne, Bernese Oberland,
Berne, Bienne, Chaux de Fonds, Neuch&tel, Pontarlier, Dijon,
Paris, Rouen, Dieppe, London, or vice versa. Available for two
months, ist class, ;^ii los. ; 2nd class, ;^8 2s.
Same route beyond Paris, but going and returning via Dover
and Calais : ist class, £ii^ 5s. ; 2nd class, ;£io 15s.
Luxemburg, Black Forest. Switzerland, and Paris.
L. — London, Harwich, Antwerp, Brussels, Luxemburg, Metz,
Strassburg, Kehl, Offenburg, Villingen, Singen, Schaffhausen,
Winterthur, Zurich, Zug, Lucerne, Alpnach, Brienz, Interlaken,
Thun, Berne, Fribourg, Lausanne. Geneva, Culoz, Macon, Dijon,
Paris, Rouen, Dieppe, Newhaven, London, or vice versa, ist
class, ;£ii 13s.; 2nd class, ;^8 12s.
Going to Brussels via Calais ; returning from Paris via Calais
and Dover; same route between Brussels and Paris, ist class,
;£i3 19s. 6d. ; 2nd class, ;^io 13s. 6d.
Many " Circular Tours " are issued in combination with
those quoted above. Take Tour B for example. It only takes
the traveller within sight of Mont Blanc. But by combining
with that tour " Circular ticket Geneva to Lausanne,'* the tourist
can go by diligence to Chamouny ; be provided with a guide or
mule (one of each is best if there are two in a party, or two
mules and one guide if there are three) over T^te Noire or Col
de Balme to Martigny. Rail to St. Maurice and Bouveret;
thence by steamer on the Lake of Geneva to Ouchy, or by rail-
way through to Lausanne, whence the journey may be continued
by the tickets in Route B. For a delightful addition to the tour,
such as is given in this circular tour, the additional co^t \& ^^''^
£^i IIS., first class throughout, or £1 9s. s^coxvi^ cNaw^^s^.
HOTEL ACCOMMODATION COUPONS,
ORIGINATED AND ISSUED BY
THOMAS COOK AND SON.
The Hotel Coupon business, which wu commenced as a friendly
arrangement of mutual interest to ourselves, to Hotel Proprietors, and
Tourists, has far exceeded our most sanguine anticipations; and as its
benefits become better known, they will be more highly appreciated by all
who are interested in the success of the scheme.
The European Hotel Coupons are issued at the uniform rate of 8s. per
day, and are arranged as follows : — ist Coupon (yellow). — Breakfast ^
specifying of what it shall consist. 2nd Coupon (red). — Dinner at Table
a*H6te, with or without Wine, according to the custom of the Hotels. 3ni
Coupon (blue). — Bed *com including lights and attendance.
These are the ordinary features of Continental Hotel life, all else beine
regarded as extras, and as such they are left to be paid for by Supplement^
Coupons or cash.
The coupons are accepted at full value at one principal Hotel in
each of the chief cities, towns, and places of Tourist resort, in Switzerland,
Italy, on the banks of the Rhine, and at a great many places in France, Ger-
many, Holland, Belgium, Austria, etc. ; dso for meals on board the Great
Eastern Channel Steamers and the Rhine Steamers.
SUPPLEMENTAL AND EXCEPTIONAL ARRANGEMENTS.
In London Tourists may be accommodated en route to or from the Con*
tinent at Cook's British Museum Boarding House, 59, Great Russell Street,
Bloomsbury, at 6s. per day, for Bed, Breakfast, and Tea with meats.
(Hotel Coupons accepted at their full value in payment.)
Hotel Coupons are also accepted at the London and Paris Hotel and
Refreshment Rooms, Newhaven Wharf, Coupons are accepted for
meals on board the Great Eastern Channel Steamers, and on the
Rhine Steamers.
Special Coupons are issued for Vienna, available at the Hotel
d'Union, and Hotel Metropole at 13s. per day.
For Paris, Hotel Coupons at special rates are issued for the Grand
Hotel and for the Hotel Bedford.
In Paris, the other Hotels in Messrs. Cook and Son's connection are
not equal in appearance and style to those of the Continent generally ; but
the proprietors having long evinced a kindly vcAett&X. 'ydl \Jt«3«!kKi«!B^ "^o^
comfort and convenience of Excursiomste ooA. TQwf\&\s^ ^^ C^ns^-os^
22C
allowed to be accepted at the London and New York Hotel, Place do
Havre; Hotel St. Petersboui^, 35, Rue Caumartin; at the Hotel Beretta
(late Londres), 8, Rue St. Hyacinthe, Rue St. Honorc. For these Hotels
iccommodation cards are also issued at the rate of 8s. per day, mdnding
meat for Breakfast. Special Coupons are issued on the Grand Hotel,
at 1 6s. to 28s. per day, and on the Hotel Bedford at 12s per day.
At Rouen, Mrs. Daniells, widow of the late Interpreter at the Station,
who keeps a small Hotel, the Victoria, near the Station, wishes to accept
Coupons from parties breaking their journey there.
Additional Charges are made on the Coupons as follows :
At Baden-Baden, at the time of the Races, 2 francs per day.
At Rome, from the 1st of December to the end of April, fix)m I firanc
to 3 francs per day, according to the class of rooms, are now agreed to as
extra charges ; but new arrangements may have to be made in consequence
of Rome being now the capital of Italy. Whatever change is made,
notice will be given thereof.
For Rome, an additional series of Hotel Coupons can be had, pro-
viding for three meals per day, and other accommodation, at ^e Hotd
d'Allemagne, at an extra charge of 2s. per day.
At the RiGi KuLM Hotels, I franc extra is required on the Bedroom
Coupon All these extras can be paid by Supplemental Coupons or Cash.
Travellers wishing to spend the night at this Hotel must give at least one
day's notice by letter or telegram to the Manager, stating that they hold
*' Cook's Coupons,** and wish rooms reserved.
GiESSBACH. — The Dinner Coupons can only be accepted at this Hotd
when the passengers remain for the night.
Conditions and terms of Repayment for unused Coupons are printed
in the Coupon Books.
Any Complaints which parties have to make as to the use of the
Coupons, or the conduct of Hotel Proprietors or Servants, to be addressed,
in writing, to Messrs. Thomas Cook & Son, Ludgate Circus, Fleet
Street, London.
Coupons can be obtained at the offices of Messrs. Thomas Cook &
Son, Ludgate Circus, and 445, West Strand, London; ii, Ranelagh
Street, Liverpool; 43, Piccadilly, Manchester; St€j>henson Place, New
Street, Birmingham ; I, Royal Exchange, Leeds ; 8, Exchange, Market
Street, Bradford ; Change Alley Comer, Sheffield ; 15, Place du Havre,
Paris ; 22, Galerie du Koi, Brussels ; 40, Domhof, Cologne ; 90, Rue dn
Rhdne, Geneva; IB, Piazza di Spagna, Rome; and also at the Hotds
Swan, Lucerne ; Trois Rois, Bale ; Trombetta, Turin ; Victoria, Venice.
Repayments for unused Hotel Coupons, less 10 per cent, can
only be made at the Chief Office, Ludgate Circus, Fleet Street, Loudens
and no agents are authorised to repay for any not used.
Hotels in the East. — A special Series of Coupons is provided for
the East Levant, and we append List of Hotels.
For Scotland and Ireland also a special series is providedy as per
Programme.
EUROPEAN AND EASTERN HOTELS
Where Cook^s Coupons for Hotel Accommodation will
be ctccepted.
HOTELS IN FBANCE AND FBENCH SAVOY.
Aix tes Bains — Hotel de la Paix.
Allevard les Bains— Gnnd Hotel des
Bains.
Amiens — Hotel de TUnivers.
Amphion (L«ake of Geneva)— Grand
Hotel des Bains.
Angavleme—Grand Hotel du Palais.
Annecy—Hoi^ d'Angleterre.
Avignon — Hotel de r£urope.
Bagneres de Bigorre — Hold de France.
Bagneres de Luchon — Grand Hotel des
Bains.
Biarritz— Gnnd Hotel Garderes.
Bordeavx— Hotel de France.
Bifulogne— Grand Hotel ChristoL
Calais — Hotel Desiin.
Cannes — Hotel Beau Site.
C-Atfiw^O'— Hotel de T.Europe.
fHotel de Londres, and
Hotel d'Angleterre.
Chamouny—^ Hotels Royal, Imperial,
Union, Couronne &
Palius de Cristal.
Ckei^ourg-Ghjid Hotel de 1* Univers.
Cintra (Portugal)— Hotel Victor,
r^^uj. i Hotel Qu6en Victoria.
^^*^^— \ Grand Hotel des Etrangers.
/^>bif— Hotel Jura.
Fontainehleau—Ho\A de Londres.
Gorges du /V>r— Ch&let Hotel.
Grenob/e — Hotel Monnet.
Havre — Grand Hotel de la Banque.
Hendaye^ Gnnd Hotel Cbapny.
n
Hyeres — Hotel des lies d'Or.
Lisbon (Portugal)— Hotel Braganza.
Z.^<7»j— Hotel de T Europe.
Macon — Hotel de rEuro[)e.
Marseilles — Hotel du Louvre et de la
Paix.
i Hotel Grande Bretagne.
Mentone — < Hotel de Menton.
\ Hotel de Turin.
n/r^^^^s C Grand Hotel Intema-
Moaane-- | station Buffet. [tionaL
Nice — Grand Hotel.
Pontarlier — Hotel de la Poste.
Grand Hotel (Special Cou-
pons).
Bedford Hotel (Special
Coupons).
Londres et New York,
Place du Havre.
St. Petershourg, 35, Rue
Caumartin.
Londres, 8, Rue St. Hya^
cinthe.
Pau — Grand Hotel Gassion.
Perpignan—Gt2Jid Hotel de Per-
pignan.
/?^««j— Smith's Albion Hotel.
Semnoz Alps—QhaXtX Hotel de Sem-
noz.
Toulon—Gi^xad Hotel.
Tours — Grand Hotel de Bordeaux.
Vichy— Gizxid Hotel des Bains.
Paris'-"^
ALGESIA AND TUNIS.
Atgiersr-
AiMa— Hotel de Paris.
BUdah—H^^i d'Orient.
Bona-^HtXiA d'Orient
ComstanHm^HoUli d'Orient
Guelma — Hotel Auriel.
Oran — Hotel de 1* Univers.
Soukahras — Hotel Thai^isaSfc,
T/emcen— \lo\A ^t '^x^njru
aaa
APPENDIX.
HOTELS XH SICILY, etc.
Caiania—Onnd Hotd.
Malta — Dunsford's Hotel*
Messima'-^Hotel Victoria.
I Palermo—Hotel de Franoo.
Syracuse^Hotei Victoria.
TaormiMa—HxAA Timeo.
SWITZERLAND AND THE ALPINE DIST&IOTS.
Aarau—HoXtl de la Cigogne.
AigU—YioXjA Victoria.
^i>»/i?— Hotel de la Poste.
A Ipnachi— Hotel Pilatus.
Altdorf—Hoitl Furka.
AndermaU—See Hospenthal.
Axenfels (Brunner) — Grand Hotel
Axenfels
Baden (Switzerland)— Hinterhof.
^ai^— Hotel Trois Rois, and Central
Station Buffet.
Bel /1/A— Hotel Bel Alp.
Bergun — Hotel Pir Dela.
^^ni«— Hotel Belle Vue.
Bellintona—HoXA de I'Ange, and
Hotel de U Ville.
^er— Hotel des Bains.
Biasca — Hotel de Biasca.
Brienz—Ho\.€i de la Croix Blanche.
Brigue—Ho^x^ de la Poste, and Stdr
tion Buffet.
^r«»«tf»— Hotel Adler.
Chamouny (Savoy)— See under "Hotels
in France.'*
Chaux de Fonds—HoXiA de la Fleur de
Lis.
Constance (Baden) ^Hotel Hecht
G?f«— Hotel Steinbock.
ry Dt J i Hotel Kuranstalt.
Davos Platz- \ ^^^^^ Belvedere.
/>«*«/w— Disentis Hof.
Einsiedeln — Hotel du Paon.
Engeibf.rg— Hotel Sonnenberg.
Falls of the Rhine (Neuhausen) —
Schweizerhot
Fluelen — Hotel Croix Blanche ct
Foste.
Prihourg — Hotel Zsehringen.
Fruti^en — Hotel Bellevue.
Furka—HoteL Furka.
i Hotel de la Metropole.
Geneva — < Hotel du Lac
( Hotel de Russie.
Giessiach — Hotel Giessbach.
Grofr^es (Soleure) — Hotel du Lion.
Grindelwald—HotfSL de 1' Aigle Noir.
/ft?/^!*/^/— Meyerhof.
Tmf0^jnrh0^ S notel Victoria.
/nterlacien-^ Hotel Ritschard.
ITandersteg—Hotel Gemmi.
La r^rr— Hotel du Rivage.
£mc Noir (Fnbouig) — Hotel des Bains
du Lac Noir.
( Hotel Gibbon.
Lansanni—l Hotel d'Angleterre,
I Ouchy.
Laulerbrunnen-^Hotel du Caprfooroe.
Leuherdad— Hotels des Alpes and BeUe
Vue.
Locarno— GtzsA Hotel, Hotel dela
Couronne.
LocU—HoXiel Jura.
Loeche leS'Batns — Hotel des Alpes.
Lucerne— Hotel du Cygne (Swan)
Lu^ano^Hotjel du Pare and StatioB
Buffet.
( Hotel du Lion d'Or.
Lungem — < Hotel Brunig.
i Hotel rOberwald.
Martigny — Hotel Qerc.
Af^mnt^ii— Hotel du Sauvage.
Mendrtsio — Hotel Mendrisio.
Monte Generoso — Hotel de lionle-
roso.
J/iTff/fviiu:— Langbein's Hotel Bean*
S^jour au Lac
Morges— Hotel des Alpes.
Morschach (Lake Lucerne) — Hotel
Frohnap.
Pit^iMt^ i Hotel Klimsenhom.
i-uatus J jj^^^j BeUevue.
Ponlresina—HotA Kxone.
Ri^i-Siajfc^-Hotel Rigi-StaffU.
Rcrschachr-^<(A^^M£KJL
\
APPENDIX.
MS
J?Af»i/0#/— Hotel RosenlauL
JPtfVfb— Hotel Rovio.
Salvan^HoieX des Gorges dn Tri^fe.
Samaden^Hot^i Bemina.
San MoritM— Hotel Engadine.
c^«^^ S Bnmig Hotel.
Saruen^ I Hotel de rObcrwald.
ScAaJ%ausen-~See Falls of the Rhine.
Sckon/els (Zug)— Hotel Schonfels.
SchuU—noxjA de la Poste.
SchweiM—HoXfA Rossli
5/. GaU—
St. Nicholas— QmiiA HoteL
iSf^yrv— Hotel Belle Vue.
Silvaplana — Hotel Rivalta.
Sitm — Hotel and Pension Silas.
Spiez — Hotel Spiezerhof.
i^ir^tfjf— Hotel de la Poste.
StaHSsiad^lioX€i Buigenstock.
SusUn (near Leuk)— Hotel de la
Souste.
TerriteUMontreux—HoXtX des Alpes.
{Hotel BeUe Vue.
Grand Hold de
Thoune.
Thusis—Uoi^i Via Mala.
7'm»/--Hotel du Glacier de Trient.
r<fvi?y— Grand Hotel Vevey.
Vemayaz—lio\€i des Gorges de
Trient.
Viach (£ggischomV--Hotel des Alpes.
Vtlleneuve—HoXxH Byron.
F(jr/— Hotel de la Poste, and Station
Bu£fet.
Vissoie—HoUSi d'Anniviers.
Zermatt — Hotel du Montendn.
Zurich— Hovel Belle Vue.
HOTELS IN BLACK FOBEST.
Albruek-HoifSL AlbthaL
Btrmmii (Station)— Hotel Werrathal.
Belchen (High Mountain Station)—
Rasthaus Belchen.
Donaueichingen — Hotel Schutzen.
Feldhtrg (High Mountain Station)—
Hotel Feldbergerhof.
Furtwangen— Angel HoteL
Gimsback — Bath Hotel.
Hodien Schwand^-Hotel Maier.
HolsUig (HoUenthal)— Golden ^tar
Hotel
Hamberg ^HoXxX Baren.
i^rro^A— Hirsch HoteL
LMzkirch—HtAel Poste.
Muihcim— Hotel Kittler.
AWtfto^— Hotel Poste.
Ottenhc/em— 'Hotel Pflug.
Oderhirch— Hotel Lind.
Schluchsee^Hottl Star.
Sackingen — Hotel Schutzen.
Sehonau — Hotel Sonne.
ScAop/hciffi^Hotel Three Kings.
St, Georgen (Black Forest)— Hotel
Hirsche.
St. Blasien— Hotel St. Blasien.
7W/»<z«— Hotel Ochsen.
Triderg (Town)— Lion Hotel.
Triberg (Cascade)— Black Forest
HoteL
Vohrcnbach — Hotel Kreoz.
F*7^i»^«i— Hotel Blume (Poste).
Waldkirch—Hotel Poste.
Waldshut—HotfSi Kuhner.
Wehr (Werrathal)— Hotel Krone.
Wildbad,-^
Wolfach—Hot€i Krone.
BELGIUM, HOLLAND, THE BHINE, GEBMANT, AND
AX78TBIA.
AdiUhtrg — Grand HoteL
AiA^a-ChapelU — Dubigk's Grand
HoteL Hotel du Drs^on d'Or.
AmsUrdam—OlA Bible HoteL
Antwerp" ^ ^^^^ ^ r Europe,
^ntAMf— Grand Hotel du SoleO.
^i^^vijf- Hotel de Baviere.
Badm^Badtn—HiM de HoUande.
/Markgrafs Hotel de
B€rlin^< Hote?B£rtickow.
VTopfer's HoteL
Bingen— Hotel Victoria.
Bonn—GmTid. Hotel RoyaL
^^anf— Hotel du Rhin.
2^14
APPENDDC
Brtdor^Hottl Swan.
Bremen — Hotel de I'Europe.
Brixen — Elephant Hot^
BmgeS'^lioicX de Flandre.
n^„^/._ ( Hotel de la Poste.
ifrusseu—^ Hotel du Grand Miroir.
r^^F^^h^— i Hotel «um Erbprinz.
Carlsruhe-^ Hotel Germania.
Corj//— Ho'el Royal.
CobUnce — Hotel du Geant
Cologne — Hotel Hollande.
Constance— VioitiX Hecht.
Creutnach — Riedel's Hotel.
Darmstadt — Hotel Traube.
rw^.^.. i Grand Union HoteL
Dresden- -j j^^^^j ^^ g^^^
Eisenach— \AoX!t\ Halben Nf ond.
Ems — Hotel Darmstadt.
Field of Waterloo — Museum Hotel.
Frankfort — Hotel Swan.
Freiburg (Baden)— Hotel Trescher
sum Pfauen.
GA«i/— Hotel de Vienne.
Gmvnden—^oi€i. Belle Vue.
Goerli/z— Hotel Herbst.
Namdurg— Hotel Streit
Hanover^-'Bri^iAi Hotel.
Heidelberg^ Hotel de TEurope.
Innsbruck — Hotel Tyrol.
Ischyl-HoVA Kreuz.
AV^/— Hotel Germania.
Aw««^(f»— Hotel Victoria.
Leipsic—Hot€L de Baviere.
Marburg— Hotel Ritter.
Mayence — Hotel de Hollande.
Meiningen — Hotel de Saxe.
w--. C Hotel de Paris.
meiz— ^ Qrande Hotel de Metr.
Munich— Hot€L Belle Vue.
yv<ifffirr— Hotel HoIIaiMle.
A^MfiM^^^Moravian HoteL
OberlahnsUin — Hotel Lahneck.
(Stracke's Hotel d' AHe-
Ostend—\ magne.
( Hotel de Gand et d' Albion.
/Vuitfir— Hotel Bayrischen Hof.
Prague — Hotel d'Angleterre.
Regensburg— Hotel Three Helmets.
Rendibur^Hotel Bergman.
Riva (Lalce Garda)— Hotel SoleiL
Rochefort — Hotel Biron.
Rotterdam— "Sew Bath HoteL
Rudol/stadt— Hotel rum Ritter.
5a/«^tfr^— Hotel Erzherzog CaiL
Schandau ^Hotel Bahr.
Schwalbach— Hotel Metropole.
Schwarzburg— Hotel Weissen Hirsch..
Spa — Hotel de T Europe.
Stettin — Hotel du Nord.
Strasburg — Hotel Maison Rouge.
Stuttgardt — Marquardi's Hotel. "
The Hague — Hotel du Vieux Doelen.
Trient (Tryol)-- Hotel Trento.
Treves^ Hotel le Treves.
7W«/tf— Hotel de la Ville.
Ueberlingen (Lake of Constance) —
Hotd des Bains.
,, i Station Buffet.
Vervters—^ Hotel du Chemin de fer.
/ Union HoteL Special
... ) Hotel Ccnipons.
*^^?*~'S Hotel Metropole. Special
V Hotel Coupons.
Weimar— Hotel fum Erbprinzen.
Wiesbaden— Grdctid. Hotel du Rhin.
Worms— Hotel de I'Europe.
(f^irn^tf/^—Hotel Kronprinz.
SWEDEN, N0BWA7, AND DENICABK.
Aarhuus — Hotel Royal.
-^^''^^'l-rHotel Bergen.
Christiania-'-GrvLvA Hotel.
Copenhagen — Hotel d'Angleterre.
Gothenburg — Hotel Christiania.
/felsingborg— Hotel Molberg.
/^<wi//&j— Gladvett's Hotel.
Jonkoping— Hotel Jonkof^ng.
e^ 11 » i Grand Hotel.
Stockholm- <j j^Q^^^i Rydberg.
7v^^A<v<» i ^°'«^ Angleterre.
Trondhjemr- 1 ,^^^^ Victoria.
HOTELS IN ITALY.
Alassio— Hotel de Rome.
Alessandria — Hotel de I'Europe.
^ft^ana — Hotel della Pace.
Anma^Hotei de I'ltalie.
^awjfo^Hotd BeViQ Vue.
Bellagio — Hotel Grande Bretagne.
Bolognar^Hottl Brun.
Bofdighera-r-HtAti d'Angletene;
. Bormio — Nouveaux-fBains de Bonnia
APPENDIX.
MS
Cadtmahhia (Lake of Como)— Grand
Hotd Bdle Vue.
Capri — Hotels da Louvre, et de
Tlberio.
GiJ«r/«— Hotel Victoria.
CasUllamart — Hotel RoyaL
Ctmobbio (Lake of Como) — Grand
Hotel Villa d' Este.
Cowu> (on Lake)— Hotel de la Reine
d'Angletene (Villa d'Este).
Corfu (Greece)— Hotel St. George.
Comigliano — Grand Hotel Villa
RadieL
Chiavenna — Hotel Conradi.
Chiasso—Hoxtl Chiasso.
Damo lyOssola—HoteX de la Ville.
"Hotel New York.
Hotel de 1' Europe.
Hotel de Russie.
Florence^-^ English and American
Boarding House, Pa-
lazzo d'Elci, 28, Via
L Maggio.
Otftfo— Hotels de la Ville and Trom-
betta Feder.
Jschia (Casamicciola) — Hotel Belle
Vue.
La 7<7«r— Hotel de I'Ours.
Lecco — Hotel deux Tours.
Leghorn — Hotel du Nord.
Lucca-— -I^kAxSl de TUnivers.
Z,iff'ff<7— Hotel Simplon.
Mantua — Hotel de I'Ecu de Fhmoe.
Menaggio — Hotel ^^ctoria.
( Grand Hotel de Milan.
Milan;^< Hotel de I'Eoiope.
( Station Buffet
KT ^r \ Hotel Royal des Etranger&
NapUs-- \ Hotel Metropole.
OrvUto-~Qt9Xid Hotel Delle Belle Arti
Padua'~GT^XiA Hotel Fanti.
Pallanza — Grand Hotel Pallanza.
Parma —
f*^r»^tf— Hotel de Perugi^.
Pisa— Hotel de Londres.
/Vm/ftt'— Hotel Diomede.
P<7£nM?/^— Hotel Grande Bretagne.
„ C Hotel d*Allemacn:ie.
Komt— J jjQ^gj Anglo.Americain.|
SaUmo — Hotel Victoria.
San Remo — Hotel Victoria.
5iMi»a'— Grand Hotel.
Sondrio (Valtelina)— Hotel de la
Poste.
Sorrento— 'YioVA Tramontano.
Spezia—YioVsX de la Croix de Malte.
5/rtfj<z— Hotel des Isles Borromees.
t 7«ryVf— Hotel Trombetta and Hotel
d'Angleterre.
Varenna — Hotel Royal.
Varese— Grand Hotel Varese.
+ yenice—Hotei Victoria.
,. ( Hotel de Londres.
Verona— ^ station Buffet.
At the Hotels marked thiu f Cook*« Tickets naay be had.
EASTERN HOTELS (SPEGIAL COUPONS).
Alexandria — Hotel de I'Europe.
Cairo — Shepheard's Hotel and the
New HoteL
iSir£B— Suez Hotel.
Port Said—Hot^ des Pays-Bas.
^..^^r^/iM. i Mediterranean Hotel.
jtruioum'^ t Hotel de I'Europe.
7a^— Hardegg's Hotel Jerusalem.
Beyrout'^^oxA Bellevue.
DamascuS'^\yimxX'n& Hotel.
Constantinople— Hovtl d'Angleterre.
AtAens—HoX^i des Etrangers and
d'Angleterre.
\«v
226
ToukiST orncES.
TOURIST OFFICES OF THOS. COOK AND $0N.
/Ludgate Circus, Fleet
Stree t (Chief Office) $
London
j West-end Agenqr, 445,
We$t Strand (opposite
j Charing Cro^ Sution and Hotel) ; and .
^ Front of Midland SUtion* St. JPancras.
Liverpool .
II, Ranelagh Street
1
Iflanchestcr
43, Piccadilly.
J
Biimingfaam
Stephenson Place
'
Leeds •
ti. Royal Exchange.
Bradford
8, Exchange, Market Street.
Sheffield .
Change Alley Comer.
Leicester '.
Temperance Hotely Granby Street
Edinburgh •
9, Princes Street.
Glasgow
165, Buchanan Street
Dublin
45, Dame Street.
Paris .
!$» Place dti Havre.
•
Cologne •
40^ Domhot
Brussels
22, Galerie du Roi.
.-
Geneva
90^ Rue du Rhone.
4
Rome
Cairo .
book's Tourist Pavilion* Shqpheard's HoteL
Alexandria .
Hotel de I'Etirope.
Ja£b, Palestine
Haidegg's "Jerusalem HoteL"
AMERICAN OFFICES OF THOS. COOK & SON.
261, BROADWAY, NEW YORK.
ynth Branch Offices at Boston, Washington, PhiladdphU, Chicago^
Ne«r Orleans, Fittsbuq;, San Francisco, and Toronto.
\ >
i: t
!i.
it ..
( I
■ ; } f • •
I
I :
.^.f.
Aa
Aadorf •
Aarau •
Aarberg.
Aarburg
Aare, Tne
Aare, Glaciers, The
Aathal .
AcherqK
Adlerras
Adligeoschwyl
Adlischwyl .
Affoltem .
Aigle •
Aiguille de Beaulmes
Aiguilles Rouges
Airolo •
Aix-les-Eaux .
Allaman
AUee Blanche
Alliaz \\ baths
Albis, The
AlbnlaThal .
,,. Pass .
Aletsch Glacier
Allalein Glacier
AUensbach .
AUenwinden .
Allinges, Castle
Amagel
Alpach» The .
Alpnach, Gestad
Alpnach, Bay.
Alstad •
Altdorf •
AltaaQ •
Altorf •
35.88-
PA6B
78
54
35
97
57
if etc
88
43
166
6
54
\\t
148
176
146
X34
154
140
56
4
167
62
143
167
81
64
64
64
68,173
. ao
68,173
Altstattei^
Altstetten
Amben •
Amphion
AmHswyt
Amsteg .
Andeer ,[
Andelfingen
Andermatt
Ani^res ..
Annecy •
Annemasse
Anniviers, Val d'
Antey .
Anza, The
Anzasca, Val
Aosta ;..
„ Castle
Appenzell
Arcjedo .
Arbon .
Ardetz .
Ardon .
Arenebere
Argent, Chateau d'
Aigenti^
„ Aiguille
„ Glacier
Arlesheim
Arona •
Arpenaz, Nant d'
Arve • •
Arve and Rhone, Confluence
Aryeiron, Source
Arvier • • .
Ascona , .
Aubonnt %
132)
PAOB
47
143
53
178
a5
174
,146
146
»7i
170
168
158
155
155
176
lis
170
»s
155
157
»53
157
20
17a, 190
146
146
131
IJO
a28
INDEX.
Auf der Flub, Castle
Angst, Basel •
Angstkummenmatt, The
Aogstmatthom, The
Auyemier .
Avencon, The.
Avise
Axenstein, The
Azenstrasse, The
Baar
Bachalp, The.
Bachalp, Lake
Bachtel, The .
Bad-Alvenea .
Baden (Aargau)
Bad-Pfaffers .
Balferinhom •
Balme, Col de
Balme, La
„ Chalet de la
Barberine, The
Bard
Basle .
Basel Augst ... 20,
Bathiaz, h, Castle
Baveno .... 172
Bayerbach, The
Beatenberg, The
Beatenhohle, The
Beaulmes, Aig. de
Beauregard (Neuchatel) Castle
„ (Chabalis) Castle
Beckenried
Belgirate
Bellagio
Belle Alp
Bellegarde
Bellerive
Bellevue, PavUlon de
Bellinzona
Bel-Oiseau, The
Belotte, La .
Belvedere, The
Bergerie, La .
Bergun .
Beij^'ner Stein
Berfingen
Beroard, St, Great
„ Little
PAGE
. 77
20, 21
162
91
117
120
155
66
68
ff
Streets
84
43
185
36
31
160
159
146
154
158
155
15
, 21
122
190
47
94
94
118
117
142
65
190
192
77
132
133
153
176
158
142
168
134
185
185
.11
100
\
Berne (continued)
Cathedral .
Bund Rathaus
Kunstsaal .
Museum •
Gardens, etc.
Bernardino Pass, San
Bernese Oberland
Bemina Glaciers
,, Pass .
Berthoud
Bessinges •
Bevaix • •
Bevers . •
Bevieux • •
Bex . . .
Bianca Pizzo .
Biasca .
Biberbruck .
Bied, The
Bieler See
Bienne .
„ Lake .
Bie^letscher .
Bietschhom, The
Bionnassay .
Aiguille de
Glacier de
Bionnay
Bilten .
Birmensdorf •
Bivio . •
Blaise, St •
Blanc, Mont •
Blatten . •
Blaue See •
Blonay . •
Bliimlisalp .
Bodio .
Bois, Glacier des
Bolladore
Bonaduz
Bon-homme, Col du
Bbnigen
Bon-Nant, The
Bonneville •
Bonstetten •
BoFca • •
Bormio, Baths of
Borromean Islands
'Gfoaexi&Xsain.
80.
ft
PAGB
lOI
IQ2
103
100
180
eta
187
188
97
142
117
187
120
t20
167
176
48
117
"3
"3
"3
161
166
153
153
153
153
52
.1:
"3
151
96
140
95
176
189
177
154
91
148
146
54
168
189
Tr
PACE 1
Bonchy. Sfgua . . .134
Boodiy. . .
117
Booig, SL Hanrice
155
„ SLPiene
>57
BovTcret
143
Brem^g, The
lU
BwidCThe-
66
^^^Tb^
•n
Breon, UUdd de
■54
35
Breni],Le .
1S9
Brfrent, ITie .
'SI
BreMn,Tbe.
146
Bti«g . .
77
Btiau . .
J
9.90
,. Lake .
90
BrienEW7kr .
79
Br£^ .
.g
'73
Bnwg . .
35
Sen' ■
97
a^^wldrf
^
BrJDig,Pui.
79
Bnmnen
J, 66
Branni . .
,1;
Brusio . .
Bnbikon. .
43
Bochi . .
:?:
BDffiOtH., Falli
Bnlle . .
Btimplitz
Bomiud
108
134
Boisino
>34
Batzbeig
97
Boochs . .
6S
„ Lake .
4
BuochierHom,Th
4
Burgdorf
97
BurgenstocJc ,
6S
Burghugel, The
5*
B5i£len (Obwalden
79
„ (Thurgcn)
53
„ (Uri).
6
«.73
Bniid .
i§
Boiveia
97
Cambrcna GLader ,
Ounpioles
Ounpten
Cunpo Cologno
Campo Doldno
Canobbjo
Castlgtione
Cattle, Mont
Cavloccio, Lake
Cebbk .
Cfligny . .
Ceppo Morelli
Cernobbio
Cervin, Monl
„ Petit .
ChabUis
Cham .
Cbunb£iy
Chambesy
Chambrelien .
Chamounjr
Chamousset ,
Champel
Chapeau (M. Blanc)
Chapelle du Glader .
ChanloDnet, Aigi du
Chasseral, The
Cbaaseron, The
Clutelaid, Le
Casde
„ Tunnel
Chitillon
CbaumoDt
Chaui-de-Fondi, t*
CbxroniAy .
Ch&le .
Cheminie, La
Chfne .
ajo
XNDKX.
TAGS
PAGS
Chillon, Castle
. 141
banl)ensee. The •
• •». 96
Chnr • . • <
• 5*
Dazio Grande
. ♦ 176
Churwalden .
Cima del Pizzo •
. 183
. 167
De Boicne, Castle .
Tent Blanche, Col de
* 142
la . • 165
. -.158
Cima di Jazi .
. 164
Dent de Morcles .
Clarens • • ll<
). flAO
Dent da Midi
» '• 123
Closes . • • .
• 146
Derendingen • .
... ..Ill
Coblens .
. . 35
Devil's Bridge, The
. J- 173
Coffirane
. . 116
Devens . , .
. . lao
Copie, Val de
Coiie • . • .
. . 155
Diablerets • •
• - ^123
. 32
Diavolezza . •
. * i«7
Colico .
. 191
Didier, Fr6 St. .
. . ^55
CoUonge
Cologny
• 132
Diessenhofen •
• : .25
. 142
Dietikon
• ^ 36
Colombier . •
. . 117
Dietlikon
• 53
Combalf Lac de .
. . 154
Diodati Campagne
1 ! iS
Como
. 192
Dissentis
M Lalce of
. 191
Pistel .
% . 167
Concise .
. 117
Doire^The .
* 155
Constanoe
. . 26
Dole, The .
* 134
: „ Lake
. . 26
Dolent, Mont
• . . 153
... 178
Cotitamines, Les .
. 146. »53
Donat .
Convers . •
. . 116
Dossen, The . • .
. * 73
Conversion, La
. Ill
Douanne • • .
. 113
Coppet .
. .133
Doubs^The .
i . 117
Corcelles
• 116
Douna .
.'55
Cornaux
. . 113
Dranse (Chablais) .
. X43
Cossonay
. 118
„ (Valais) .
. 122,157
Cdte, La
. 134
Dreieckhom .
. * 76
Cottens .
. no
Drei Linden . • .
. . 62
Conrmayeur .
• '5^
Droites, Les . • .
. 153
Centers . •
. 184
Dalit . . . ;;
.Vii .'-..* .134
Crgmont • ..
. 154
1
Cnins . • .
. .134
Eaa Noire .
. r .158
Cressier
. 113
Ebikon . .
• • 55
Creux dn Vent» The
. . 117
Eck . . .
* 94
Crevola. . .
. .170
Ecl^pens
. 118
CroiXf St • •
.118
Ecluse, Fort de 1' .
* 132
Cuera • • • .
. 32
Effretikon . . .
J .53
Cully • . . .
133.137
Egeri .
. ,51
„ Lake .
. . 51
Dachsen . •
• 25
Eggischorn* The .
• . 76
Dap;mersellan
. 57
Egnach . ;
• 30
DaiUy, Cascade da
. 121
E^thal, The
... 63
Dala, Tlie .
77, 97
Eiger .
.^ . 8i
pames, Plaine des
• 154
Einsiedeln . • .
■ .) . 48
I)anikon . . . .
• 35
Elgg .
. . 54
pard, Cascade du .
.149
Emme, The .
. ..107
VAigent, Cliateaa
• 155
Emmenbrucke, The .
• '..,. 58
^ligcn . . . ,
• 94
i YAnmemna^The •
. * K»
j^f^be. The . . . .
. .
\ 'EnaneciScaX^'t^ «
« \ to8
Paubenboxn .
fc^ ' • i' ¥>
\"S*»
, % tJLJ* \^
INDEX.
Engadine^The
i. Upper
„ Lower
Enge, The« near Berne
Englestockf The
EnUe, The .
Entlebnch
» Vale
Ependes
Eplatnres
E%oli, Valley
ErUich
Erlen .
Erlenbach, The
Ermatigen •
Erzmgen •
Eschenz •
Eschlikon •
Escholzmatt .
Esel, The .
Estavayer
Etrambieres, Castle
^troubles
cu^ensbeig •
Evian les Eaiu
Evionnas
Evolena
PAGE
ux
Faido .
Falknis, The .
Fariolo .
Faucigny, Castle
Faulhom, The
Fee .
Feldbach
Feldkirch
Felsenburg, The
Felsenthor, The
Felwen .
Femex .
Ferret, Col de
„ Val de
Fiden, St .
Filisnr .
FiUar .
Findelen, The
,, Glacier
Finhaut .
Finster-Aar Glacier.
Finster-Aarhom
Finster-Aar Schlnct
Fischeti, The.
187
107
.3
108
108
118
117
34
95
11
^5
21
as
>fi
70
"7
i46
156
^5
142
121
170
1?
.170
146
f^
167
as
96
72
S3
131
15s
»S5
54
168
161
163
122
89
H
22
Flamatt . •
Flawyl .
Fleg^, The .
Flims .
Fluelen .
Fluhbrig, The
Foliaz, La
Fondle, La .
Forclaz, Col de la
Forestay, The
Foron, The .
Foomeaux, The
Fours, Col des
Frakmiind
Franzenshbhe .
Frauenfeld .
Freiberger
Fressinone, The
Freudenfels .
Friboure
Friedri<£shafen
Frohnalp
Frohnalpstock
Frontinex, Bois de
Frutigen
Fuorda de Surlej
Furca .
Furcahom
Furggen Glacier
Gabelhom, The
Gals
Galenstock, The
Gall, St.
Gauli Glacier, The
Gellihom, The
Gelmerbach, The
Gelmerhom, The
Gelmersee, The
Gemmi, llie .
Generoso, Monte
Geneva •
Histoiy
Cathedral .
Lake . •
N. Bank .
S. Bank .
Genthod Bellevue
Gersau .
Gervaix, St. .
„ Bath&
231
PAGS
108
54
182
68
73
^SS
133
159
137
140
169
154
^n
53
71
172
as
109
29
66
66
74
164
166
54
74
II
96
193
I2|
128
13a
133
142
133
148
G>«»mo . . .
i8i
GrinuelHoqrfce
GieadMch
90
Grindelalp .
..Falls . .
91
Giflre, The . . .
I4fi
Giisoos .
Gignod. . . .
»S6
Grono .
Cingolph, St . .
144
Grotle sxa Fm*
Giomen. . . .
169
Griiben. .
Giomico. . . .
176
Grfitli . .
Giiikon. . . .
GUwyl ....
79
Gniyere.
GsSwandAlp
Guardavall, CtuUe
Gkod ....
"S
Gluner Alps .
Gu^U . .
Gliimisch
S«
Glanis ....
Sa
GSmlfficn .
Glatt,Tbe .
43
Gwt^,The .
GUroUes . . .
137
Giitsch, The .
167
Guttanea
Glion ....
'41
GQItingen .
Goldach. The. .
54
55
Gyslifluh .
Goldd, The . . .
.94
Hwg . .
Gqld5wyl
Golzwyl, Lake
9>
94
Haie Pfilte .
Gondo ....
170
Handeck, Falls
Gondo, Gorge of ,
Goigier Sl Aubyn ,
170
Hesennmtt, Hie
117
HasliThal .
Gomei Grat .
162
Hanenslon .
Gomer GUcier
162
Tunnel
Gomer Horn, The.
16S
Hauseck
Goschenen
'73
Hansen .
Gosssu ....
54
HanteviUe .
Gothaid, St., Railway .
172
Hauls Generevi
Hospice .
'75
HedtHKen .
Pass.
"75
Heiden .
Tunnel .
'74
HeligkreiB, The
Golleron, Bridge .
„ VflUe7 . .
Henggait
Gottfrev . . .
Cotllieben . . .
170
Hergiswyl .
26
Gouise, Tourde .
137
Hermance
Gouter. Aiguille du
Hertenstein .
Giabengletscher .
Giabenhom .
HettlinEcn .
Grandson . . ,
117
Hindelbank .
Grandvaux « . .
HinteiThein .
Grasonet
ii
Hirzel . .
Greifenstein ,
I behenschwand
GreinaPass .
18^
Hoehiluh, The
C/enchen
HQchfluhkirche, Tlie
Grengiols .
•n
HocWein, The
1 HodaVcST^tcTHc
^renttcb . . .
21
ramse/gnwd.
. 89
\ mcti^wVl.Tta
'i
INDEX.
433
PAGE
:
PAGE
Hofwyl • • • • i
98
Kammerstock, The •
P
Hohbiihl . . . .
' 94
Itander, The . • • •
Hohenklingen . • .
2J
Kandersteg . . . •
96
Hohen Rhoetian, Castle • ,
178
Kanzli (Neuhausen) •
23
Hohentwiel . . . ,
25
» (Rifi) . . . .
Kappel (iUbio)
72
HoUenhaken, The .
21
M.
Homme de Pierre • . .
159
Kastris
HoFgen
, 44
Katzis . • • • «
iTt
Horn • • • • I
30
Kempthal, The • • .
53
H*6mberc,The
Hbmli, TTie . . . ,
107
Kessweil . . • «
. 30
163
Killwangen . . • ,
• 36
Hospenthal . • • <
. 175
Kindlimord, Chapel • 1
66
Humgen . • . .
. 20
Kirchen, The . . . ,
, 88
Hmmenfluh . • • .
. 87
Kirchet, The . . • .
88
Harden . • • • .
. 46
Klem Basel ... I
5»«
Klein Lauffenburg .
. 21
Ilanz . • • • ,
. 182
Kleine Rugen
. 94
Tlfis
. 107
Klimsenhom . . • .
. 70
imez,Vald' . . . ,
. 123
Kills • . . . «
► «73
Im Grand . . . .
. 88
Knonau • • . . .
> 54
Im Hof
. 88
Koblenz. . . . .
- 35
Immensee . • . .
- 55
Konigsfelden, Abbey •
. 35
Inkwyl
. Ill
Konolfingen .
.107
Interlaken . . . .
. 92
Kreuzlingen, Abbey. • 2
8,30
Intra
. 190
Krienz ....
. 63
Iselle
. 170
Krisiloch . . •
. 70
Isdtwald . . . . ,
. 91
Kiissnacht . . •
. 64
Isles, Les . . . ,
• 157
Kiissnacht Bay
Kyburg, Castle
. 64
Tslikon
• 53
. 95
Isola Bella . • . .
„ Madre . •
L'AUiaz, Baths .
. 140
„ Dei Pescatori .
LaBalme . . . .
. 146
„ S. Giovanni .
La Bathiaz .
. 122
Ivrea , . . ,155
f 170
LaBelotte .
. 142
La Bergerie .
La CaiUe, Bridge .
. 134
^ acob, St . • •
. 20
. 132
] acol^ubeli . . •
• 95
La Conversion •
. Ill
' ardin (M. Blanc) . •
. 150
La Cote
. 134
] azi, Cima di .
» 164
LaFoliaz
«55
^ oderhom . • •
. 167
La Fondle . •
. 133
' bli, Mont . • •
' 153
LaToux
La Lance
. 157
brasses, Grandes »
• 153
. 117
] bugne ....
. "9
La Meillerie .
. 144
' bux, La > • •
. 157
La Salle
. 155
' vdie, Bosquet de •
. 140
La Sarraz
. 119
] ulier Pass
. 184
LaSaxe, Baths
• 154
] ungbach, The •
. 160
La Tour
. 178
Jungfiraa
:.fl
La Turr, Castle .
, bra- • r •> •
LaVillette .
>^^
^
\ liBA>\A
KuserstuM, Xbe •
• 70 \ 1ax^«cl . • • •
' ^
Kaltbad. ...
\ Vag^'fiA»»»c) «
» *
»34
INDEX.
PAGE
LaeoDi Gaida
• • •
193
188
. yy Minore .
„ Moesola
•" • • •
181
. „ Nero .
188
Lakes, Italian
. ■ • t
. 189
l«ak0 of Como
191
. „ . Lugano
• • •
> 193
„ Orta .
• • «
193
Pf . Riva .
• • ■
180
ft . SUs .
f • •
186
„ . Varese
• • «
193
:» , Vatz .
• • •
184
Lance, La
• • •
"7
Lancettes, Glacier de
'54
Jjandpaherg, The
78
Landeron
"3
Landquart
32
La^g^thal
97
L^ngnan
Lanibach, The
107
79
Laninge
143
I^berhora .
85
iiufielfingen .
Lliufen, Schloss
35
22
LfUiffenburg .
21
Laupen .
108
Iiaupaxme .
134
,, Cathedral .
135
Lausen .
• • •
ii
Laut^r-Aar Glacier
Laaterbmnnen
• « •
86
„ Upper Valley .
87
L^Ta^cher
• • •
157
Layaux .
. .119
► 137
Laveno .
189
jjiyej. Baths
121
La? , .
77
Lf^a .
181
I^nz
184
I>eon^, St.
170
LeBjed
"7
Le Breuil
169
LeL^c .
148
L^ Lode
117
Le. R-ese
188
Leslies
157
Les Montets .
158
Zeg Fonts
• "7
ZesPraz
• iS7
fes Tines
•
77»79
I
I
ll
Leuk, Baths .
liddes .
liestal .
Limmat, The .
Lindau .
Linth Canal, The
Linththal
Liro Valley .
Liverogne
Locarno
Locle, Le
Lostallo
Liovere .
Lower Engadine
Lower Glacier (Grindelwal^)
Lowerz
. „ Lake .
Lac, St
lauoerne
Bridges
; StiftScirche
rLion .
j Glacier Garden .
Lucerne, Lake of
Lugano .
„ Lake • . 177,
I^up[netz Valley
Loino .
Lukmannier Pass
Lumino .
Lungem
Lnneem, Lake
Lustbuhl
Lutry . . . . Ill,
Latschine, Black
Whitje
Lyskamm
Lyss
Lyssach . • .
Maccagno
Macugnagna .
Val de
Madre, Isola .
Madonna di Tirano
M&dulein
Magadino
Maggiore* Lago
Magland
PAGE
97
157
34
35
^
4fi
53
179
155
181
82
55
66
170
58
59
60
61
62
63
177
m
189
181.
79
79
94
133
82
?7
166
97
97
189
\u
172
187
189
172
146
ibJns The .
KMMli, Iiland
iStiter*.
_ , . , nSchoee
MirieleDSee.
Markdfii^en
mintetlcn .
Mutbalen .
U&rtigny- le-bou rg
Martin, St. (Chabia
(Aosta)
HarlmsbrDck .
Martinsdruch
Hartiiuloch (Flims)
„ (Grindclwald)
Husa, The .
jg Bsa, Gorge.
Uatten (iDteriaken)
HattcthorD, "nie
Hattmark
MattntarkSee
■annex, Sl .
Hain^ Tu <H. Blanc)
MaRDfUd
Hcdels .
Ucdcker, The
„ Pass
Mde«ren
Hdhn .
Ueillerie, U.
Hd^^ !
UaUde .
Umage, The
Her£Ghu«(M.
ICctmeDatetten
Mcttelhom, The
Stii^
Misot, Castle
Hitlodi .
Mitlufaoni, The
MitleUioli
Hittel RheiD .
Uoesa, The
„ Falls
MBle, The .
Mol^son, The
Molins .
Mollis .
Mottrasio
Hontalegre .
Montanvert .
Motitbenon
Mont Blanc .
Monte Generoso
Montets, Col des .
»S5
PACE
Montm^Un .
Morb^no
More, MoDte .
Morel .
MoTgaiten
HoTge, Goi^ of .
Horgen, The .
MorgeDlhal . .
Moines .
Morgei.
Momex, Castle
Morschach
Morschwjl
Morteratsch Glacier
Morts,, Valine des
Mottet .
Moulier Val .
Hoveran, Grand
Miihlehom
Miihien .
Muhtenen
Muhlibach
Mtdets, Glands
Miilheim
Miilinen
Miinchen-Buchsce .
Tklunoth, Castle
Miioster (Valais)
Milnslett.ha,\ .
Mvko«as,&e .
-^.
236
INDEX.
]
P^GE
PAGE
Muig (Wallenstadt) • . 47
Oerlikon • • • 4
3> 53
Miirren . . • ,
86
Oggebio . . . .
OUvone
Myes . . <
133
\ 182
Mythen . . .
66
Ollon, St Triphon .
. 119
Mythenstein .
67
Olmenhom • • • ,
Olten
. 76
Nafels .
52
Orbe
Nangy . . » .
146
„ Vald' .
. 118
Nant Borrant .
154
Ordleg;no Falls
, 186
Nant d'Arpenaz
146
Ormonto, Val des •
119
Napf, The .
108
Oron . . • • ,
, III
Nase, The .
95
Orta
193
Nasen, The .
65
Orsieres . . . 155
» '57
Naters .
77
Ortler Spitz . . . .
189
Nauders •
188
Ossola,Vald'
172
Nebikon
57
Ossola, Domo d' • . ,
172
Nemier .
142
Ouches, Les . • . ,
146
Neubrucke
160
Ouchy
1^
Neuchatel
"3
Oyen, St • . . .
„ Lake of .
"3
Neuenstadt .
"3
Palezieuz • • • .
III
Neuhaus ■
94
Pallanza. • ...
190
Neuhausen
22
Panixer Pass . . • ,
53
Neuveville
"3
Paradies
25
Neyruz .
no
Parpan
184
Nicholas, St .
Nicolai Thai .
112
160
Parrotspitze, The .
Pedriola . . • .
\U
Niederried
91
Peilz, La Tour de •
140
Niederwald .
75
Perroy
134
Niederwyl
97
Peseux
117
Niesen .
94
Pestarena • . • .
168
Niklaus, St .
160
Peteret, Mont.
155
Nolla, The .
177
Pfaflfers, Abbey .
31
Nollen, The (Grimsel) .
89
„ Bath
31
Notre Dame de la Gorge.
146
Village .
• 31
Notre Dame de Saxe
121
Pfaffikon . . . ,
> 52
Nottwyl
.^
Pfyn
► 78
Nufenen.
Pie di Mulera
. 168
Nyon . . . ,
133
Pierre, Chateau
Pierre a Bot . . . ,
.146
. 116
Ober-Albis, The .
, 56
Pierre Adzo . . • .
. 123
Oberalp Pass .
. 183
Pierre a voir . • • .
. 122
y, oce • •
. 183
Pierre, St, Island .
. 113
Obergestelen .
. 75
Pierre Pointue, Pavilion de
. 151
Oberried (Brienz) .
• 91
Pierre, Homme de .
• IS2
Oberried (Rhine Valley) .
. 31
Puciadella . • • .
. 188
Ober See
, 116
Pieterlen
» 112
02>erstaad
. 25
Pilatus • . •
. ^
Oberwald
. 15
, Pissevache Falls - • •
. 121
Obwalden . . . • 7^ \ 't^'BerDma. •
. Ig
Oche, Dent d' • • 1A4 \ «« C»m\»«^
«^Sk
OebnigeB
• a?
A «Oan« . * *
*v^
INDEX.
m
PAGE
Pizd'Albana.
. 184
,, del Diavel • •
. 185
„ Julier
. 184
y, Languard • •
• '?§
„ Lugalp . . .
. 188
„ Mundaun. •
. 182
. „ Otl .
. 187
„ Pulaschin.
. 184
„ Raschill .
. 184
„ S. MicheL
. 177
Pizzo Bianco .
. 167
,y Cimadel
. 167
Plateau Grand (M. Blanc
. 153
Pleiades, The.
. 140
Poleggio
. 176
Pontarlier
. 118
Ponte . . . <
. 185
.. .168
Ponte Grande. •
Pontresina
. 187
Ponts, Les .
. 117
Porlezza
. 193
PortValais .
119,. 122
Porte du Sexe.
. 122
Porto .
. 189
Poschiavino Valley.
. 188
Poyaz .
. 158
. 189
Prad
Pragel Pass .
. . 52
Prangins, Chateau .
. 134
Praz, Les
. 157
Pre St Didier
. 155
Pregny .
. 131
Prex, St
. 133
Promonthoux .
. 134
Proz, Plan de
. 157
„ Cantine de .
. 157
PuUy .
. "9, 137
Radolphzell •
. . 25
Ragatz .
. 31
Randa .
. 160
Rapperschwyl.
- . 45
„ Bridge
. . 46
Katerisboden •
. .. 89
Raterschen •
. 54
Realp .
. 74
Reckingen •
. . 75
Reculet .
• 133
Reichenau
. 25
„ Island .
. 25
Reichenbadi .
. . 96
„ Castle.
. . 9»
Reichenbach, River
„ Valley
„ Falls.
Reiden .
Remy, St
Renens .
Renkloch, Gorge
Reposoir Valley
Reuss, The . . 35, 55
Rheineck
Rheinfelden ....
Rhine . . i5f 24, 189
„ Falls . . . ,
Rhone, The . . .119
„ Glacier
„ Perte du
Rhone and Arve, Confluence
Richterschwyl.
Riedbach, The
Riedwyl.
Riffelberg
Rigi
Railway.
Kulm
„ Scheideck
„ Little
Ringgenberg, Castle
Ripaille, La .
RiUligratli .
Roche .
Roches, Les Grandes
Roggwyl
RoUe . ^ .
Romainmotier
Romanshom . . • 30,
Romiti .
Romont .
Rorschach
Rosa, Monte .
Rosenlaui, Baths
,, Glacier
Rossalp, The .
Rossberg, The
Rbthe, The .
Rothenburg .
Rothenfluh (Vitznau)
„ (Lauterbrunnen)
Rothenthurm . •
Rbthihom • «
9i
PAG&
8t
81
81
156
133
140
etc
30
21
etc.
22
etc.
75
132
131
i6a
162
70
71
72
74
62
91
84
119
»37
97
134
119
► 53
71
no
30
164
82
81
84
55
112
58
^S
87
«38
RgU»M;,Cutla
SauThiil
StcontT, Gnnd .
„ Petit
Siickiiilin)
St MuU
SL MoiiU .
St ValenCioe .
SaUre .
Sdte, La
SaUendie, Tlie
Snldne, Its .
Silvan .
S>lv*tore, Monte Son
Sunaden
Su Benuudioo Pass
S«n Giulio, Istand .
S«aVittore .
Sand Grat Pass
Sjiphorin, St .
Sl^e, The .
SanaZi La
SanvabeUin .
Saxe, La, Baths
„ Mont de
„ Noire Dame de
Saion, Billis of
Scanf .
Scesiplana, The
S^hachenbach, The
Schichentha!. The .
Schadau, Schloss .
Scbaffbtusea .
Schatns, VaJlej of .
:»
Sdimlwen
SchatThe
SchreckhDin, The .
Sdml* .
Sdiupien
Sdi^iQiNni .
Sdiwanden
Schwareobach
Schwarrbninnenbriicke ,
Schwanenbach
Schwanenberg, Glacier .
Sdiwatihom, The .
Schwan See, The .
Schwanwald, Glader
Schwesteri^oni
SchwTi .
SchTnige Plaits The
Secheron
Sedriin .
Seeboden Alp.
Seetisberg
Seewinen, Glaci<:r .
Segues Pass .
Scigne, Col de la .
Selbsanft, The
Selzach .
Sembiancher .
Sempoch
„ Lake of .
Sense, The .
Sentis, The .
Septimer Pass.
Serena, Col de la .
SeieTiWV, Falls .
Sei[aST\iA .
IND
EX.
a39
PiWB
PABB
S«TO. .... .147
Suehet Mont . . . .118
Settetno ViUMe
<5S
SilEen . . .
S3
Setter, The .
54
Sulpice, St .
"U
Sercten. .
3'
Su^ . .
iSSiSx
ilfi
89
Stoten . .
n
Siebenen
S'
T^^ertsOii .
•07
Sieire .
ip>
Tamina, The.
.6
12;
Taminl .
Tannav .
1
■6|
107
m^ '.
IS*
43
T^p.Bath..f
J
TataiwM
181
TaTClKh Valley
(83
somen . .
;ii
Tell's Chapel ,
SO*, Lake of .
Tell's Plane
i^;
SilnpUoft .
StmeEhom, TU
186
84
Tite Noire (St. Gervaii)
(Marligny) .
SlmploA Pass .
171
ThitilKiden Glacier
Sngen
as
Tbeodule Gladet .
t^
Sion
170
„ Pass
169
SimKh. .
it
Theodulhom. The
169
SUkra . .
Thiele.The .
ii§
SiKWh . .
35
Thonon .
I4>
no
tU
Silt VaUer ■
146
Thna
95
SOMI. . .
tSl „ Lake .
94
SoUure . .
iir ; Thur, The .
54
Solothurn
94
35
Thuai . .
177
77
Tidio, The .
;ji
I6i
Tiefenan. Bridge
isasui*.
178
5)
Tines, Les .
Tinien .
stiih . .
44
Tiiano . .
StaSel . .
71
Tithij . .
S4
71
Todi .
it
Sulden . .
160
Todten»ee .
Sulla . .
184
Tonr, La
'59
Stanur Horn, The
65
Toonuuiche Val
170
Stanntad
1^
TowRondcLa
■43
Sl«Ata*,The
Tonitenugne.
77
StM^berg .
8?
7^ Vttlle
■
U
StM^bom
35
Tnehtellauineo
Stein . .
a
'•.«
TwJW . .
1F9
StelvioPais .
-nefenkMten.
■u
113
Twib . .
StMkho>n,The
S«»,lS .
ti
190
TtOattle, J^uille de
„ Glader de
IS3
'54
&AJp». .
III
Tt(kd>»^ .
.^
240
INDEX.
Tremola, VaL
Trient .
„ Col de .
I, Forest of
„ Gorge du
Trieve, Falls .
Triftjoch Pass
Trins .
Triphon, St., Ollon
Triquent, Gorge
Trogen •
Trons ,
Trfibbach .
Trumlenbach, Falls
Trlimletenthal
Tschamut
TschingelbriOce, The
Tschingel Spitz
Turgi .
Turr, La, Castle of.
Turter See .
Twann . .
Uetliberg, The
„ Railway
Ufnau, Island
Ulrichen
Unspunnen, Castle
Untere-Bleicki
Untersee, The
Upper Engadine
Upper Glacier (Grindelwald)
Urbachthal, The
Urdorf . ,
Uri, Lake
„ Valley of
Umer Loch .
Urseren, Valley . . 74
Uster .
Uttweil .
Uznach . •
Uzwyl • •
Vaduz . •
Val Bregaglia
Val Calanca •
Vald'Illicz .
Vald*Orhe ..
Val Moutier ,
Val des O mons
Val Meso'ciasL
PACK
176
«59
121
I2I
16S
189
U9
121
182
1^
178
"3
41
42
44
75
87
94
25
186
83
88
54
67
174
a74
183
43
30
46
54
31
179
181
123
115
i\9
» 1^1
Val Piora .
Val Somyix •
Val Surpalix .
Valbella, Pass of
Valle S. Giacomo
Valhndas
Vallorbes •
Valorcine •
ValtelUna .
Vanzone •
Varembe •
Varese • •
Vaud
Vauderens
Vauxmarcus, Castle
Velan, Mont
Verena, St., Hermitage
Verlorenes Loch
Vemayaz
Vemex-Montreux
Verolliar, Chapel
Versam . •
Versoix .
Verte Aiguille
Vesenaz.
Vevey ,
Veveyse, The
Veylaux-Chillon
Via Mala
Vierwaldst'atter See
Viesch . *• .
Viescher- Homer
Viescher Glacier
Villard .
Villaz, St Pierre
Villeneuve (Leman)
„ (Aosta)
Villette, La
Visp
Visp, Gomer
Visp, Saaser
Vispach
Visp Thai
Vitznau .
Viviers, Grotto
Vogtsruhe
Voirons, Les
Vrinthal
Vougy •
Vouvry •
\
121.
PAGS
. 182
. 182
. 183
. 184
. 182
. 119
. x68
. «3i
• «93
. «33
. XXI
. "7
'57
X12
178
X2I
"9, i33> W
. 120
. x82
• «33
153. «57
• '^
i33»»38
. 131
'33. '4|
. 178
. "9
. no
133. I4«
. 15s
77,160
• t6o
. 160
77,160
. 160
. 65
. m
• 94
• 132
• 183
.146
. 12$
"9
"9.
"9,
INDEX
Wadensdiwyl. •
Waldisbalm, Grotto
Waldshut
Wallenstadt .
,f Lake
Wallisellen .
Wannehom, Grosse
Warton, Castle
Wartenstein, Ruins.
Wasen .
Wattineen
Wauw]^.
Weggis .
Wemfelden
Weingarten, Castle.
Weissbach, The
Weissbad
Weissenstein .
Weiss Glacier
Weisshom, The
Weisshomgletscher .
Weissthor Pass
Wengenstein
Wengem Alp
Wesen .
Wetterhom
Wetzikon
Whilen .
Wiesendangen
Wiggis, The
Wi^hingen
Wildegg.
Wilderswyl
Wildgerst, The
WUdkirchli, The
V:
45
6$
ai
47
47
43, S3
76
31
32
173
173
57
65
53
2
54
112
88
160
161
165
112
85
82
43
21
53
5a
21
k
54
l^^nkeln.
Winkehnatten.
Winterthur .
Wohlhausen •
Wohlhusen .
WoUishofen •
Worb .
Wufflens Chateau
Wyl .
Wyningen •
Yverdon.
Yvoire .
Yvome, Mount
Zapport Glacier
Zasenberg
2^iswyl.
Zermatt .
„ Glacier
Zemetz •
Zihl, The
Zillis .
Z'mutt .
Zofingen
Zollikofen
Zug
,, Lake ^ •
Zumsteinspitze
Zurich .
„ The Munster
„ Lake •
Zweilutschinen
Zweigl'ocher • •
241
25.53
. 108
108
56
107
134
54
97
. 118
134. 14a
. "9
. 180
. «3
. 161
. 178
. 161
. 57
54,184
• 1^
. 165
• 37
• 39
:S
• 94
iS^
TOURIST'S MEMORANDA:
4Ka»si«t'ft jitmrttttmtg.
Votttist's 0itU\BXElibtU
MtnxtiBf% ^ttiiioraiiftA*
1 ■ '0ittiuicwibiu
Sottilff^' ^ifimmiiiliM*
T ^* • f
Vmtciaf s fhrnotanheu
ADVEBTIBMMENm. 1
SAMUEL BROTHERS,
MBBOB&BT TAXLOBa Un BOTB- OVTFITTBSB,
SYDEHHAM HOPaE, 66 k 87, LnPOtTE HIIL, LOSBOH, E.C.
:bo-vs' sttxo^s,
"WSAB-RBaisTiya rABBics" {»■?<).),
FOR GENTLEMEN'S, YOUTHS', & BOYS' CLOTHING.
SUIT FOB A BOT ate. 8m. in beiglit-C CLASS, 37s- ; D OLASS, 91s.
PucaB TiKima Iccordiis to She.
Guide to 8tlf lleat wnment, lUv atraUd Priai Litl ami Paftemi, Fort Jt-gg.
^"SCHRBORO"' ""jltM T»R" "HIGHLAND" "ETON"
X> B P.A.XC7IVKEIN ^TS.
1. OenUemtti'iClotlilnKMade'toDrdet. i. DnUonns and Uvsrlw,
3. Gtntlamsa't OIoUHhk Bsady for Im- D. IaiIIbb' Hablta, CoitusiM, Ulttcn,
mediate Vm. Hautlee, etc
a. Bor«' uid TontlM' Olotbliigr RMOy- t. etarU, H&ta, Hodeiy, Bug*, Port-
>Ade or to lleMnre. T. Boott and SIumb.
if TOUXISTS and T£jr»£L£US ii partlcTilul; InTit^ to On,
>»"> ^n tuwd, oompiuing matflrialA tnitable for all cHuuteii.
■"■' ' ■ ' ' " " 8 prioe and olan towUdt
STDElffiAJI HOUSE, 65 AND 87, LtTUakTS. ^SiS^^^a.
SAMJ]EL m-OT^^e^
ADVEBTISEMENTB.
NBGRETTI & ZAMBRA,
TOURIST'S SCIENTIFIC REQUISITES
©gtitfjans and ^ctwiiolofliital Jnsirum^nt Itafeera
Zb aSB MAJESTY TBS QUBSN and tJu Oovtmnunii Deparimnti,
HOLBORN VIADUCT;
Also at 46, CORNHILL ; 123, BEGFENT ST.; and CRYSTAL
PALACE. SYDENHAM.
* Pocket Buomater, to ftretell Weather
* Ditto, with Soole of Altitudes for correctly aaoertainiii^
the Height of HoontaiaH £5 5b. Od, and
* Tourist's Binoonlar Olaues £S 3s. Od. (ud
* Negretti and ZuDbn's New BioDcnlar —
FricBB in Bronse, with Leather Sling Oase
Ditto, in Al - nminiiiTii . , .
■troBg in Frame, and c
IB of high power
kod aohromutic, :
r Military Sorrioe. Il it
_. . . ^ . ;h (me haiul ; (tetdolly, it
a lai^ Geld of view, abandiuce of light; peifeot asfinilion ;
mj Colour or Flag can be recogniied at long diatanoes.
A. GIsBH, ta be really ueefu). ahoald poaaese mecfaanioal itrengtii, optdoal perfec-
Jon, and be handy either on <i>ot or in the ■addle; these qoalil^ are Dre-eminentlT
united in the NEW BINOCUIAE.
* Tonhst'e Telescopes, 16 to 20 miles' range £4 4s. Od. to 6 6
* Fedometeia, for Hfeasnmg 'VGii\lDik% TJujtuLoea 3 3
■* .?5fa*r dwv io 6«oilai»eA at TEOS. COOKS; SOFSOiPo»,I*a,«U 0™».
ADTEBTISEMENTS.
IMPORTANT CAUTION.
The MAC4SSAB0IIi for the hair, ODONTO for the Teeth,
and EALYDOR for the Face, msjinfac tared by A, BOWIiAND
& SONS, of 20, Hattos Oardea, Loadon. foi the last 80 years, and
bearing their aignatore in red ink on the wrapper, ore the only
lienuine articles sold mider theae or any 5IM1LAE names : therefore,
do not be peranaded to bay worthless imitations of Bowi.A>ni'B
KiCABSAB Ou., Kalidob Or Odohto, however cheap.
ROWLAND'S MACASSAR OIL
Freventa the hair falling oS, and eradicates scurf and daudriS. Sizes
3s. Gd., Tb., 10s. 6d. (family bottles, equal to foor small), aad 2l3.
ROWLAND'S EUKONIA
Is a new and fragrant ToOet Fovder, specially recommended to ladies.
Size 38. per hox; or double that size with Fuff, 5b.
ROWLAND'S ODONTO
Whitens the Teeth and prevents and arrests their decay. 2s. 9d.
per boi:.
ROWLAND'S KALYDOR
Eradicates Freckles, Tan, Sanbarn, and Cutnneoua Eruptions, and
ABVBBTISEMENTS.
WHELFTON'S VEGETABLE PURIFTING FILLS.
A Direct Purifier of the Blood, by
which Many Thousands of Cures have
been effected; numbers of which cases
had been pronounced Incurable. During
more than Forty Years the numeronti
well-authenticslied Testimonials in dis-
orders of the HEAD, CHEST, BOWELS,
MVER, and KIDNEYS ; also in EHEU-
_ MATISM, ULOEaS, SOSES, andaUSK IN
BBOTTLD Bl IN lYSKT HOUSBHOLB. DISEASES, Bxe Sufficient to proTe the
gxeat Tslue of this most vbuitl fakilt i»Dici2rB,.it being
ONE OP THE BEST MEDICINES KNOWN.
Ifany persons have found these fills of great service, both in preventing and
reliiBvin^ Sea Sickness r aad in warm elixnates tiiey are vexj benefloia] in all Bilious
Complamts.
Sold in Boxes, price 7id., Is. l^d., and 2s. 9d., by Qt. WHELPTON & SON,
3, Crane-court, Fleet-street, London, and by all Chemists and Medicine Vendors at
home and abroad. Sent free by post in the United Kingdom for 8, 14,.or 83 stamps.
THOS. COOK & SON'S
FOREIGN BANKING & MONEY EXCHANGE
DEPARTMENT.
Chief Offce-LUDBATE CIRClfS, LONDON, E.G.
Foreign Monies Ezclianged at most Advantageous Bates.
Drafts and Circular Notes Issued and Cae^ed.
Messrs. THOS. COOK & SON have added the above Department to their
old-established Tourist business, in order to more fully meet the requirements of
their numerous patrons.
WE8LEYAN METHOOrST SUNDAY SCHOOL IffllON -CENTRAL AGENCY.
SALE AND SHOW ROOMS OPEN FROM g a.m. to 7 p.m.
BIBLE CARTOONS— LIFE OF JESUS.
(27 in. hy 23 in.) ; printed in 9ipia, on a Gold groand. One Shilling each : —The
Set of 21, One Pound. Mounted. Framed, ka., fl-om Is. 8d. to ISs. ; Sets. 30s. to £13 128.
Also, in Stained Glass, on Tiles, kc. , to Order.- {For Prices, Ac, apply to W, Mnn»,)
Miniature Cartoons.— Set of 21, Is. 4d. ; Framed, 6d. to 2s. 8d. Sfet in box, lOs.
ILLV8TBATED BEADINOS-LIFE OF JESUS.
The Twent]H>ne Bible CaiAoons, with Scrrptore Beadings, printed on untearable
cloth, on background of pale Blae (Wedgwood Blue) in place of Gold. 2s. each, 28. 8d.
mounted ; Sets, £2 ; mounted on one roller, £2 2s. ; and mounted singly, £2 ISs. 4d.
THE LAST SUPPER.
A New Bible Cartoon (35 in. by 25 in.), printed in Sepia and Gold,.28. each.
Banner and other Texts, Ulustrated Books, Illuminated Maxims, Scripture Beadings,
Bpiritual Songs, American Oi^^s, Harmoniums, and other Appliances for Sunday School
Mnd Mission Soom Work, General B«\igiona liVtenXTO^, Tracts, and Books. Foil Lists
on Application, P.0.0. and Cheques pay&^U to Yl . %1lSY%. Ot^%\^ Pqi* attended to.
ADVERTISEMENTS.
MANUFACTURERS OF
WATCHES
JEWELLERY.
GOLD
MEDAL,
t!=;^
n » K«*o % « jnaoiSrmaiivi
PAKIS,
1878. J
JOSEPH GILLOTTS
STEEL PENS.
Sold by aU dealers throughout the IVorUL
WORKS ON SEA-SICENESS AND NEUBALGIA.
8EA.SICKNESS, AND HOW TO PREVENT IT: an EzplanatLon of its
Nature, and snccessfal Treatmont, through the Agency of the Nervons
System, by means of the Spinal loe-Bag, with an Introduction on the
General Principles of Neuro-Therapeutics. By John Chapman,
M.D., M.B.C.P., M.B.C.S., late Physician to the Parringdon Diapen-
saiy, and late Assistant-Physician to tiie Metropolitan Free HospitaL
Second Edition, in 870, price 3s.
AUOf by the sa/me AuthoTj
KEURALOIA, AND KINDRED DISEASES OF THE NERVOUS BTSTEM^
their Nature, Causes, and Treatment ; also a Series of Cases, preceded
by an Analytical Exposition of them, exemplifying the Principles and
Practice of Neuro-Dynami Medicdue. Svo, doth, 14s.
London : J. & A. Churchill Paris z Ilbrairio Galigwani. 224, fine de Bivoli.
PHRENOLOGY.
PROFESSOR FOWLER (of New York) gives Phreno-
logical AND Physiological Consultations Daily, at hia Rqqto5l^
in Cook's New Bmlding, 107, m^e^^ ^\»^^^\.,^w£l^S^ 5b..Ts..H«.
5 p.m.
ADVERTISEMENTS.
SEVEN PRIZE MEDALS AWARDED.
GOODALL'S HODSEHOLD SPECIALITIES,
A single trial solicited from those who have not yet tried thene splendid preparations.
GoodaH'sBakinePowde
THE BEST IN THE WOELD.
The cheapest hecause the best, and indispensable to every liousehold, and an inestimable
boon to honsewives Makes delicious Puddings without eggs. Pastry without butter, and
beautiful light Bread without yeast. fck>ld by Grocers, Oilmen, Chemists, &c., in Id.
Prepared by 'gOODALL, BACKHOUSE, & Co., White Horse Street, Leeds.
Yorkshire Relish
THE MOST DELICIOUS SAUCE IN THE WOELD.
This cheap and excellent Sauce makes the plainest viands palatable, and the daintiest
dishes more delicious. To Chops and Steaks, Fish, &o., it is incomparable. Sold by
Grocers, Oilmen, Chemists, &c., in Bottles, 6d., Is., and 28. each.
Prepared by GOODALL, BACKHOUSE, & Co., Whi-e Horse Street, Leeds.
The best, cheapest, and most agreeable tonic yet introduced. The best remedy known
for Ind^estion, Loss of Appetite, General Debility, &c. Eestores delicate individuals to
health and vlgrour. Sold by Chemists, Qrocers, &c., at Is., Is. lj|d., 2s., and 28. 3d. each
Bottle.
Prepared by GK)ODALL, BACKHOUSE, & Co., White Horse Street, Leeds.
Goodall's CustardPowder
For making delicious Custards without eggs^ in less time and at half the price. Qive it a
trial. Sold by Grocers, Chemists, and Italian Warehousemen, in 6d. and Is. Boxes.
PREPAB.111> BT
si^mu, BAcmusi, & co.,mw^mm.'s\,,MUis.
ABVER TI8EMENT8.
M I D L A ND RA I LW AY.
The Fiotnresqne Eonte between London & Manchester & Liverpool,
through Matlock and the Peak of Derbyshire.
XSzpress Trains in each direction at convenient hours.
THE TOURIST AND EXCURSION' ROUTE
BETWEEN ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND,
Via SETTLE and CARLISLE, is now Open.
A Morning Express Train runs between London and Edin-
burgh and Glasgow, in each direction, with Pullman Drawing-
room Cars attached ; and a Night Express Train runs in each
direction, between the same places, with Pullman Sleeping Cars
attached. First Class Passengers may avail themselves of the
comfort and convenience of these luxurious Cars on payment of
a small charge in addition to the Railway Fare, particulars of
which may be ascertained at the Stations.
PTJILMAN I)RAWI]J&-B.OOM AM SLEEPIIf& GARS
are also run by certain Express Trains between London and Liver-
pool, and London and Manchester.
Tourist Tickets are issued during the Summer months from
London and principal stations on the Midland System to all
principal places of Tourist resort in the United Kingdom.
The Official Time Tables of the Company, and every informa-
tion respecting their Trains and arrangements, may be obtained at
any of the Stations of the Line.
Tickets from London for all parts of the Midland Railway, and Lines in con-
nection, are issued at the Company's Office, 445, West Strand (opposite
Charing Cross Station), and at the Office of Thos. Cook & Son, Ludgate
Circus, as well as at the St. Pancras, Moorgate Street, Victoria, and other
Stations.
THE MIDLAND GRAND HOTBL
(One of the Largest Hotels in Europe),
Containing upwards of 400 Bed-rooms, with spacious CofFee-rocn, Reading-
room, and numerous Drawing-rooms, has been erected by the Company at
the ST. PANCRAS TERMINUS, and wiU be found replete with every
accommodation. The Company are also owners of
THE aUEEN'S HOTEL, LEEDS,
THE MIDLAND HOTEL, DEBBY,
And THE MIDLAND HOTEL, MOBECAMBE,
Adjoining the Midland Railway Station in each of those Town&.
ALL naST CLASS HOTKLA TOSL 'BkHIlA:6& KS:V^ ^2SSK^:uaSSS..
Derby, April, 1 879. ] A>A.1E.^ K\-\-^Q^:^ ^ Geu. Ma»va?,eY
8 ADrBRTI8Ei£EirT8.
LONDON, CH ATHAM, AND DO VER RAILWAY.
LONDON' AND PARIS,
Til. DOTSB AHD OkXiUB.
TBKEX SPKCXAI. EXPRESS SXHTICES DAIXiT.
ShortHt Sea PaiMce. Bo Hlnutcs.
■ & (TEST EKD), HOtBOKN AITD LUDGATR (CITT).
si: 'iiiE
If
I»LS
LojMn TP Pl^^
8z:s,vios:.
fall lud BxpNM SarrloM
t Btdglimi, Qonxiaiiy, ft»^ tlu BUdAp
'" ?mM°'
AH bv Uie T.s iLm. Tnln, but Pvaebfon *
' p^ urt dUbnoM of fu* Ir thar with » pnK
»u?Mlloil (InoloifiDi Sunud'i Wee*) ><• Ci
OfllMa irtwra THBOmH TtOKETS and InfomuitloiL cui be obtaliiAd :-
CtaM w«t 111(1 om»-T«iTauA eriTina. i roiDKiw— ar j. j. nubbbe, t-t, ihimhii
I4tr TwnLnii*— HOLaoav TUDDCT. 1 Putt— H4nbanivfrna«IWLw4Ti*lidtlM
ClCjOmo*— LUDaATIBILLfTATIOB. _ I UbfttbAOU flGI Dovar HvUmr CqajMii
r.Sl5»r*«Mf«Tljiiil«01Ili»,Locl«»to01niii«. »<"■ B~.i~-rf .«.. i^H-.?' *^
AiuHZi-irr.dlVI'ZUttl.HoiiUwudBlkOgiii. I Cdil
TAWKUYUi
ADVERTISEMENTS. 9-
TO EXCURSIONISTS AND TOURISTS.
To avoid the rush at Bailwaj Stations in procuring Tickets at the time of
departure, Messrs. Thos. Cook <^ Son have heen appointed Passenger Agents to
the Kailway Oompanies, and the following Tickets, for starting from London,
can be obtained at ANY TIME at their Chief Office, LTTDGATE
CIBCnS, LONDON:—
Midland Railway. — All Ordinary, Excursion, and Tourist Tickets.
Great Eastern Bailway. — All Ordioary and Tourist Tickets.
London, Brighton, and South Coast Bailway.— All Ordinary and
Excursion Tickets.
Great Western Badlw^ay. — ^AU Excursion and Tourist Tickets.
London, Chatham, and Do^er Bailway.— All Ordinary and Excursion
Tickets.
Qlie aboTe Tickets ean be procured at any time, and will be dated to suit the
convenience of the passenger.
THOS. COOK & SON
Cblef Office— Ludgate Clrous, London.
10 ADVEBTI8EMENT8.
NEW SYSTEM OF TOURS,
ARRANGED BT
TSZOIMI-A-S OOOIEZ <Sc SOIT,
INCLUDING ALL PRINCIPAL PLACES OF INTEREST,
FROM BRISTOL TO THE LAND'S END;
THE MAGNIFICENT SCENERY OF THE COASTS OF
NORTH & SOUTH DEVON, CORNWALL,
AND THE
ISLANDS OF SCILLY;
Special Travelling Arrangements
BY
RAILWAYS, STEAMERS, COACHES, & PRIVATE CARRIAGES
BETWEEN
Bristol, Weston-snper-Mare, Taontoa, Exeter, Teignmonth, Torquay,
Dartmonth, Plymooth, Falmouth, Helston, Penzance. The Lizaid,
Land's End, the Soilly Islands, Tavistock, Lannceston, Bnde,
Barnstaple, Lynton, Ilfraoombe, and other places of note in
SOMERSET, DEVON, AND CORNWALL.
Passengers can be Booked to start from
LONDON, BIRMINGHAM, MANCHESTER, LIVERPOOL, LEEDS,
BRADFORD, SHEFFIELD, EDINBURGH, GLASGOW, DUBLIN, &G.
For full Particulars, see Programme, to be obtained
free at any of the Offices of
THOMAS COOK & SON.
AJDVEBTISEMENTS. 11
COOK'S TOUR
TO THE
SOUTH COA ST & THE IS LE OF WIGHT.
THOS. COOK & SON have much pleasure in calling attention to this
popular TOUR, which they have arranged with the London, Brighton, and South
Coast Railway Company, and the Port of Portsmouth and Ryde United Steam
Packet Company, by which
MONTHLY TOURIST TICKETS
FROM LONDON may be issued on any day
BETWEEN THE 1ST OF MAY AND THE END OF OCTOBER,
Offering facilities for visiting
HASTIN&S, ST. lEOU ARDS, BRI&ITOIf, PORTSMOUTH,
THE ISLE OP WIGHT,
And almost every intermediate Coast Town and Village.
This splendid tour comprises nearly 300 miles of the most charming Railway
and Steamboat travelling in the United Kingdom, and affords facilities for stop-
ping at nearly twenty places on and adjacent to the Coast of Sussex. The
journey may be made from LONDON BRIDGE, VICTORIA, or KENSING-
TON, and can be taken either way, going first to Hastings, and thence by the
South Coast Line to Portsmouth, proceeding from Portsmouth by Mail steamers
to RYDE, and returning from Portsmouth, terminating the trip at any stopping
station of the London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, between Portsmouth
and London ; or reversing the route by going first to Portsmouth, and returning
by Brighton, St. Leonards, Hastings, etc. The tickets are prepared as neat
little books of Coupons, and are good for completing the Tour at any time not
exceeding a month.
THE FARES FOR THE ROUND,
Exclusive of trifling pier dues and omnibus charges connected with embarkation
and landing, are,
FIRST CLASS, 37s. ; SECOND CLASS, 27s.
Tickets are available for all Trains. i2olb. weight of luggage allowed to each
First Class, and i2olb. to each Second Class Passenger. Children under ii years
of age, travelling with parents and firiends, are charged half-fares.
In all cases, at starting from London, or any other London, Brighton, and
South Coast Station, the tickets must be presented to be dated and stamped, and
they can only be used for the Lines and the Companies for which they are pro-
vided. They are good for a calendar month from the date of dei^axt^ix^.
THOS. COOjK & SON, LUDGXI^E. C\^03'5., MS^v-^^S^
12
ADVERTISEMENTS,
RUBATTINO & GO.'S ITALIAN MAIL STEAMERS.
THOMAS OOOK & SON, Passenger Agents.
INDIAN LINE.
BEOULAB MONTHLY DEFAETURES (via Suez Canal)
From Genoa to Bombay on the
24th, and from Naples on the 27th
of each month.
From Bombay to Gtenea on the
Ist, and from Aden on the 8th of
each month.
The steamers employed by the Company on this line are, as it is
well known, all first rate English-built vessels, of 1»400 tons register,
or about 2,500 tons burden, affording every comfort and convenience
to passengers. Each vessel carries a qualified surgeon.
The average passage from Naples to Bombay is performed in about
18 to 19 days.
Besides the regular monthly Indian Line the E. EUBATTINO'S
Steam Navigation Company have many other important mail services,
under contract with the Italian Government, as follows : —
MEDITERRANEAN LINES.
ALEXANDRIA (Ugypt), STRIA, and CYPRUS, to ITALY.
Alexandria to Genoa every Friday
at 9 a.m.
(Calling at Messi. Napl. & Legh.)
From Naples to Genoa every
Wednesday at 10 p.m.
Arr. at Genoa every Friday at
10 p.m.
Genoa to Alexandria every Mon-
day at 9 p.m
(CalUng at Legh. Napl. & Mess.)
From Naples to Alexandria every
Thursday at 6.30 p.m.
Arr. at Alexandria every Tuesday
at 11 a.m.
Eeoulab Depabtubbs from Genoa to Tunis, Genoa to Cagliari,
Naples to Cagliari, Genoa to Poitotorres, Genoa, Bastia, Madilena,
Portotorres, Civita Yecchia to Madalena and Fortotorres, Piombino to
Portoferraio.
The Company, in order to be agreeable to Passengers, will take
charge in G«noa of their luggage if they desire to have it forwarded
direct to England, France, or Germany.
The Company also undertake to forward goods and any oilier
article at any Port touched at by their Vessels, and from those Ports
to any commercial Place in Europe, at through rates, addressing for
information E. ETJBATTINO and Co., TransU Office, Genoa.
JjiBUTSbiiGe on Cargo shipped on hoard their Vessels can be efteoted at
moderate terms according to tke CoiitcaAt stipulated with French
Inaarance Companies, whoB©iidoTmait\ouTa»i3\ift\is^^*0sACiompany*a
A-genciea,
ABVEBTISEMENTS. IS
UNDER CONTRACT WITH H.M. POSTMASTER-GENERAL.
THE
PENINSULAR AND ORIENTAL
Despatch their Steamers, FROM SOUTHAMPTON,, vid the
Suez Canal, with H.M. Mails, as follows : —
EVERY THURSDAY
For GIBRALTAR, MALTA^ PORT SAID, SUEZ,
ADEN and BOMBAY.
EVERY ALTERNATE THURSDAY
For CEYLON vGalle), MADRAS, CALCUTTA,
THE STRAITS, CHINA and JAPAN.
EVERY FOURTH THURSDAY
For AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEALAND.
The Company also book Passengers through to Queensland, via"
Singapore and Torres Straits.
CcHTesponding Steamers are despatched from VENICE
every FRIDAY, and from BRINDISI every MONDAY to
ALEXANDRIA with the Overland portion of the Mails and Pas*
sengers.
INDIAN PARCEL POST.
Th« Compuiy are ftuthorised by the Direotor-General of the Post Office of lodift to
reoeive Faroels for Delivery at any Post Town or District throaghoat India and British
Barmahy at a oniform rate of Is. per lb. or fraction of a poond weight, and Booka at a
rednoed weight of 6d. per lb.
Parcels mnst not exceed 60 ponnds in weight, and 2ft. by 1ft. by 1ft. in measure-
ment, nor be more than £20 in value, and if containing Jewellery, Gold and Silver
Ware, Watches, or Precious Stones, an additional rate wUl be charged.
This charge covers tne conveyance from London- to the address in India, etc. (but
does not include du^), and may either be prepaid or paid on delivery.
The Parcel Post arrangements are now extended to Aden and Oeyion at the rate of
Is. per lb. or fraction of a lb. The service to Oeyion is, however, fortnightly only ; in
other respects the conditions are the same as for India.
For Rates of Passage Money and Freight^ and all other infor^
motion^ apply at the Company s Offices^
122, LEADEN HALL STREET, E,0.
Passengers can be booked at any oi tiie Ottisi^^ oITtao^. Cqh&^^'^^s^-
14 ADVERTISEMENTS.
Genera/ Steam Navigation Co., 71, Lombard Street, E,C,, and ^7, Regent
Circus, Piccadilly, London, W.
For Bank Holiday Arrangemonta, see Special Bills and AdyertiBementB.
GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY.
When the Comimny'B VesBelB cannot come alongside the Irongate and St.
Katharine's Wharf, Passengers and their Lnggage are conveyed hy
Steam Tender to and firom the Ships FKBE of CHARGE.
I.OMBON AHD BOULOGNE.
The Dolphin, Rhine, Co\og^^, Moselle, or Concordia.
Prom Etondon— Daily. From Bonlosne — Daily
FABES (includisg Steward s Fee).— London to Boulogne, 12b. and Ss. 6d. ; Betnm
Tickets, ISs. 6d. and ISs. Ijondon to Paris, available for three days, 27s. 6(1. ;
23b.; 198. 6d. ; * 16s. 6d. Betum Tickets to Paris, available for fourteen
days, 52s. 6d. ; 40s. ; 35b. ; and 26s.
IiONDON AND BATRS.
Pilot. — From Irongate and St. Katharine's Steam Wharf.
From liOndon— Every Thorsday. From Havre — Every Sunday.
Fares (Steward's Fee included).— Chief Oabin, 13s.; Fore Cabin, 98. Betum
Tickets, 20s. 6d. and 14s
LOMDON & 08TEHD, THE aBIllE, A SWITSKERI. AHD.
The Swift and Swallow.— From and to Irongate and St. Katharine's ¥^harf.
From liondon— Wednesday & Saturday From Ostend— Tuesday & Friday.
FABES (Steward's Fee included) .—Chief Cabin, 18s.; Fore Cabin, 14b, Betum
Tickets, 27s. 6d. and 21s.
LOMDOH A ANTWERP, THE RHINE, A 8WITSKSaX.AND.
The Hawk, Orion, Falcon, Earl of Aberdeen.— Ftom and to Irongate and
St. Katharine's Wharf.
From liOndAn— Every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
From Antwerp— Every Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday.
FABES (Steward's Fee included).— Chief Cabin, 24s. ; Fore Cabin, 16B. Betum
Tickets, 37s. and 24s. 6d.
LONDON AND BAMBITRO.
Libra, Osprey, Granton, Penguin, Iris, Rainbow, Martin, Nautilus, or Alford.
From JLondon— Every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
From Hamburff— Every Tuesday, Thursday, and Satmrday. FABES (including
Steward's Fee) .— <3hief Cabin, 45s ; Fore Cabin, 29s. Betum Tickets, 68b. and 41s.
1.0ND0N TO OFORTO, PORTUGAIi, AND SPAIN,
The Petrel.— From and to Irongate and St. Katharine's Wharf.
Departures from each end every fortnight. For dates see daily papers.
FABES (No Steward's Fees).— Chief Cabin, 84fi.
LONDON AND BORDEAUX . BOVTB OF FRANCE, AND
Tbe Bittern, Kestrel, or Lapwing. —From Irongate and St. Katharine's Wharf.
From liOndon — Avery Thursday. From Bordeaux.— Every Friday.
FABES vNo Steward's Fees).— Chief Cabin, 60s.; Fore Cabin, 408. Betum
Tickets, 100s. and 66s 8d.
LONDON AND EDINBURGH (Oranton Pier).
The Virgo and Widgeon. —From and to the Irongate and St. Katharine's Wharf.
From fondon —Every Wednesday aud Saturday.
From Edinburgh (Granton Pier).— Every Wednesday and Saturday.
FABES (Steward's Fee included).— Chief Cabin, 22s. ; Fore Cabin, 16s. Betum,
348. and 24s. 6d. ; Deck (Soldiers and Sailors only), lUs.
LONDON AND BULL.
The Heron, Ostrich, and Hamburg.— From and to the Custom House Quay,
Lower Thames Street.
From JLondon— Every Wednesday and Saturday at 8 mom.
From Hull— Every Wednesday and Saturday. FABES (Steward's Fee included
•"Saloon, 9s. 6d. : Fore Cabin, 68. 6d. Betum Tickets, 15s. and 10s
LONDON AND YARMOUTH.
During the winter months tbere is a r^ular weekly steamer le».Vj(ng ijondon ou
Hiursday morning and Tarmouth oh Sunday. During the summer there is a
special dadly service. FABES.— Saloon, ^. *, "SoTe Oabin, 78.
Tbe above arrangements are subjeot to such. sltatsA&ou Ixoxa \&xi\a \a ^o&a «a^QQR'UV&ttQAQBB vaaj
think neoemaary or desirable. See Adverttaemente tn. ^sX^ -Bwg«n.
ABVERTiaBMENTS. 15
ILLUSTRAT ED BOOKS O F TRAVEL.
Imperial Svo, Ss. each, elegantly bound, gilt edges,
1. French Pictures, drawn with Pen and Pencil.
By the Bbt Samuxl G. Gainr, B.B. With upwards of 150 fine Eaflrravin^s.
*' One of the most sumptuous of Gift Books. The perfection of Wood Engraving
and descriptive Letter-press." — Qowt Journal.
2. English Pictures, drawn with Pen and Pencil.
By the Bev. Samuei. Mavkivg, LL.D., and the Bev. S. G. GBxnr, B.D. With
Coloured Frontii^iece and numerous Wood Engravings.
" Next to' seeing the heautif ul places of the earth comes the delight of reading
of them, and many a one who is doomed to begin and end his days within a ' cribb'd,
cabined, and confined ' circle, can roam guided by such a book, at the will of fane
through sunny glades, by babbling streama or over the breezy moorlands."
3. American Pictures, drawn with Pen and Pencil.
By the Bev. Samuel Makkiitq, LL.B. Profusely Hhistrated in the best style
of Wood Engraving by eminent English and Foreign Artists.
*' These American Pictures are a credit to all concerned in th^r production."
PaU Mali Gazette,
** A very interesting and entertaining volume." — SfpecioAor.
** C!opiously and cleverly illustrated and pleasantly written." — Daily News,
4. Swiss Pictures, drawn with Pen and Pencil.
By the Bev. Sakxtbl MANiriHe, LL.B. With numerous Illustrations by
Whymper and others.
** In th^ third edition there are so many additions and improvements that this
beautiful volume is still more attractive and beautiful than ever." — Standard.
5. "Those Holy Fields."
Palestine Illustrated bt Pev akd Pencil. By the Bev. Sakuel Mavnuto,
LL.D. With numerous sux>erior engravings.
" The work is executed with great ability — but the great charm of the book is
the Illustrations. Very simple, but executed with extreme fidelity, and a thoroughly
artistic feeling." — Ghraj^ie.
6. The Land of the Pharaohs.
Eqtpt and Sinai. Illustrated bt Pen and Pencil. By the Bev. Samuel
Manning, LL.B. Profusely Illustrated with fine Engravings.
** Dr. Manning wields a lively and graceful pen. The volume is full of spirited
and highly-finished engravings on wo<^." — Standard.
" Written in a pleasing, readable fashion. . . The woodcuts are capital."
Athenaeum,
7. Italian Pictures, drawn with Pen and Pencil.
By the Bev. Samuel Manning, LL.D. Profusely Illustrated
** The more we turn over the pag^s of this book, the more we like it. Italy is the
tbeme of a great deal of fine writing and fine painting, but the plain descriptions
and accurate drawings here really tml us more about it than a library of inspired
puems and a gallery of ideal paintings." — Timee.
8. Spanish Pictures, drawn with Pen and Pencil.
By the Bev. Samuel Manning, LL.D. With Illustrations by Gustavo Bor^
and other eminent artists.
"A volume that does credit to the writer and artists epiployed." — Pall Mall GFaaetta.
"The letter-press is pleasant reading, and many of the sketches are of the
highest excellence."— T?M Time*.
THE RELIGIOUS TRACT SOCIETY,
London : 56, Pateknostbb Bow-, 65, St. Paxtl^a QiK\j^BA-B.^icKCk \ msa^'^assr.kssvs^s*-
lUustrated OotologuM/ree ou oijy^'VMoXMfK.
16 ADVBBTI8B2£BNTFf.
GUI DE BO O K S.
The following Books can be obtained at any of the Offices of
THOS. COOK &* SONy or sent by Post to any part of the United
Kingdom : —
Cook's Tourists' Guide to Holland, Belgium, and
the Rhine. Price 3s. 6d. With Maps.
Cook's Tourists' Guide to Switzerland, showing all
Routes to Paris, with descriptions of the places of interest
Price 3s. 6d. With Maps.
Cook's Tourists' Guide to the Black Forest. Price
3s. 6d. With Map.
New Guide to Ancient and Modern Rome. By
SHAKSPERE WOOD. Price 6s. With Map. This work
contains full Particulars of the recent Excavations in Rome.
"This is extremely well done. The information is clear and brief, given
with judgment and good taste, and apparently exhaustive. It is
hardly possible to conceive a more useful book for its especial pur-
pose — that of guiding the hasty tourist to see as much as may be-
with the least expenditure of time." — Guardian.
Cook's Tourists' Guide to Northern Italy. Price 4s.
With Maps.
"Cook's 'Northern Italy' will tell the traveller nearly all he wants to
know of the chief cities of the North, including Florence, the
approaches through the mountain passes from France, Switzerland,
and Austria.*' — Graphic,
Cook's Tourists' Guide to Southern Italy. Price 4s.
With Maps.
"Cook's 'Tourist Handbook to Southern Italy* is another of those
plain, unpretending guides, which, like Cook's Coupons, are perhaps
best suited for the mexperienced traveller, but to him will prove of
more real service than the more voluminous and exhaustive manuals.
It is as good a handbook as tourists can desire." — Graphic,
Cook's Handbook to Venice. Price is. With Planv
Cook's Handbook to Florence. Price is. With Plan.
** Cook's Handbooks to Florence and Venice form two handy little
volumes full of reliable information." — yohn Bull,
Cook's Handbook to the Health Resorts of the
South of France and the Mediterranean. Price is. WidiMap.
Cook's Handbook for Egypt, the Nile, and the
Oesert. Price 6s. With Five Maps.
Cook's Handbook for Palestine and Syria. Price
jTu 6d. With Four Maps.
A Few Words of Advice on Travelling and its
JRagu/rements. Addressed to "La^i^^. "^'"^V^cabulary in
French and German and olthet >3fi^bA\TiQrcBa5aaT^. ^tv^w
ADVERTISEMENTS, 17
GUIDE BOOKS, Ac—oonHnued,
Cook's Guide to Paris. With Plan of Paris. Price is-
Cook's Handbook for London. Full particulars of all
places of interest, Railways, Omnibuses, Tramways, Steamers,
Cab Fares, Churches, Chapels, Public Buildings, National
Institutions, Museums, Picture Galleries, Law Courts, Theatres,
Clubs and Club Houses, Banks and Bankers in London, Short
Excursions in the Suburbs, Hotels, &c., &c. With Two Maps.
Price 6d. ; cloth gilt, lod. By post, yd. and is.
Up the Nile by Steam. To the First and Second Cata-
racts. With Maps. Price 6d.
Programmes of Personally-Conducted and Inde-
pendent Palestine Tours with extensions to Egypt and
the Nile. With Maps. Price 6d.
Cook's Excursionist and Tourist Advertiser. Pub-
lished at short intervals during the Season, in London, New
York, and Brussels ; and contains Programmes and Lists to
the number of looo Specimen Tours ; tickets for which are
issued by Thos. Cook & Son, with Fares by every Route.
Price 2d., or by Post 3d.
Cook's Continental Time-Tables and Tourists'
Handbook. Contains the Time-Tables of the principal
Continental Railway, Steamboat, and Diligence Companies,
and includes Eight Sectional Maps, specially engraved ;
full directions as to Passports, Foreign Currency, etc. Com-
piled and arranged under the personal supervision of THOMAS
Cook & Son. Price is.
Cook's Centennial Map of Atlantic Steamship
Routes; and Tourists* Map of Central Europe. The
two in cloth case. Price gd.
London: THOS. COOK & SON, Ludoate Circus,E.C.
WEST END AOENCT-mdlajid Railway Office, 445, West Strand
(opposite Cliaring: Cross Station and Hotel).
BRANCH OFFICES:
BIR1IIIHGH4H— Stephenson Place
MANCHESTER— 43, Piccadilly
LIVERPOOL— 11, Ranelagh Street
LEEDS— 1, Royal Excliazige
BR ADFOR D -8. Exchange, MarketSt
SHEFFIELD— Change Alley Corner
LEICESTER— 6^, Gallowtree Gate.
DUBLIN— 45, Dame Street
EDINBITRGH— 9. Princes Street
GLASGOW— 165, Buchanan Street
PARIS— 15, Place du Havre
COLOGNE-40. Domhof
BRUSSELS— 22, Galerie du Roi
GENEVA— 90, Hue du Rhone
ROME— iB, Piazza di Spagna
CAIRO— Cook's Tourists' Pavilion^
Shepheazd'fk Bs^\j^
CmBF AMBRIOAN OPFIOT-a«l,«B.^KB^ « ^^KSW^^'*^
79.
18 ADVEBTI8UMENT8.
COOK'S EXCITRSIONS, TOURS,
GENERAL TE AYELLIM AR RANGEMENTS.
THOMAS COOS AND SON,
"piONEEBS, Inangarators, and Promoters of the principal systems of Tonrs
-^ established in Great Britain and Ireland, and on the Continoit of
Europe, are now giTing increased attention to Ordinary Trayelling Arrange-
ments, with a view to rendering them as easy, practicable, and economical as
oircnmstances will allow. Daring 88 years more than six SfUJjOKB of
Travellers have visited near and distant places under their arrangements ; and
their system of Tickets now provides for visiting the chief points of interest
in the Four Quarters of the Globe.
TourlBt Tickets by Midland Route issued by THOHAS COOK and I^OK
to Berbyshire, Yorkshire, Lancashire* Moreoamhe Bay, Isle of Man, Sootland,
Ireland, kc, ; also Cheap Ezotirsion Tickets to and from London.
Cook's Englldi Lake Tours cover all points of Interest, including Win-
dermere, Ck>niston, Ullswater, Derwentwater, Bydal, and Grasmere Lakes. Also
Coaches and Carriage Excursions to visit all principal plaora.
Cook's West of England Tours, combining Bailway, Coach, and Steamer
to every point of interest between Bristol and the Land's End. The Tickets are
prepared in Coni>on form, and can be issued in combination, to meet the requirements
of the Tourist. Hotel Coupons are also issued for First Class Hotels in the District.
Cook's Scotch Tours cover all points of Tourist interest in Scotland,
Oban, StafEa, lona. Isle of Skye, Caledonian Canal, Eyles of Bute, tdie Trossachs, the
Highlands, the Lake District, Edinburgh, etc. ; and can be used in a aiTniiay manner to
the Irish Tours.
Cook's Irish TounL^Thomas Cook and Son issue Tourist Tickets to and
through all parts of Ireland, including the Giant's Causeway, Belfast, Dublin, Qalway,
Loch Erne, the Lakes of EjUamey, etc. They can be used in connection with Tickets
from London, or any town on the Midland Bailway.
Cook's Tickets to Paris are available by the Shortest and Cheapest
Boutes, and by Dover and Calais.
Cook's Swiss Tickets are available by every Boute, and Oover every
part of the Country. Thomas Cook and Son are the only Authorized Agents of every
Swiss Bailway, Steamboat, and Diligence Company. Every Alpine route is included iu
their arrangements.
Cook's Italian Tickets provide for every Boute to and through Italy, and
are offered at great Beductions in Fares.
Cook's Tours to Holland, Bel«:lum, and the Shin*, are arranged upon a
most comprehensive basis, Tickets being provided for every Boute, for single and
return journeys, and for Circular Tours, Breaks of journey are allowed at all places of
merest.
Cook's PersonaUy-conducted Tooxb \ubiVQ \)C(QQme a most popular feature
ha tbeir arraagementB. Parties ore orgaaBized.\o\Qnk^«ljO'&dLO'&.'««^£cs ^no^fi^tho season
^or Switzerland, Qermaaj, Italy, aaid vadoua -pvEts ol ^ftCiaBL\Sa«!o^
ABVEBTISEMBNTS. 19
Ooox'b Bxcubsioss avd Toubs— contintted.
The Steam Navigation of the Kile is oommitted by the Khedive Govem-
ment entirely to Thomas Cook and Son. The Steamers (the only ones on the Nile)
ply between Oaixo and the First Cataract (600 miles), and the Second Cataract (810
miles). Tickets can be had, and Berths secured, at any of Thomas Oook and SOU'S
OfOlces.
Tonrs to Palestine are rendered easy, safe, and economical, by the
8ni>erior arrangements of Thomas Cook and Son, who now have their own Besident
manager in Beyroat and JafEa. They are therefore prepared to conduct larg^ or small
parties in the most comfortable manner through the country ; to Jerusalem, the Dead
Sea, the Jordan, Damascus, Sinai, etc. The parties can be so fixed as to go indepen-
f)ently or under personal management any time between October and April. Nearly
two thousand ladies and gentlemen have visited Palestine under their arrangements.
Turkey, Oreece^ the Levant, etc.— Thomas Cook and S<m are now pre-
pared to issue Tickets b^ any line of Steamers, to any port toudied by the Ausl^ian
Itloyd's, Messageries Mantimes, and Bubattino Co.'s Stewners.
India, China, eta— Thomas Cook and Son are the Agents of the principal
steamship Companies of the world, and are prepared to issue Tickets from Sonth-
xmpton, Venice, Ancona, Gtenoa, Naples, and Brindisi, to Alexandria, Aden, Bombay,
Calcutta, Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, or any other innnt in India or China.
Algerian Tonrs.— Thomas Cook and Son issne Tickets by any ronte
to Algeria, and over the Algerian Bailways and Diligence routes.
Norway, Sweden, and Denmark.— Thomas Cook and Son now issne
Tourist Tickets by all pnncipal Bailways and Steamers for the most interesting parts
of Scandinavia.
Bound the World.— Thomas Cook and Son are prepared to issne a direct
travelling Ticket for a journey Bound the World by Steam, available to go either West
or East.
Cook's Hotel Coupons, available at over fonr hundred first-class Hotels
in various parts of the world, can be had by travellers purchasing Cook'S Tourlst
Tickets, guaranteeing them first class accommodation at fixed and regular prices.
Passages to America and Canada are secured by Thomas Cook and Son
for all the chief lines of Steamers. Arrangements are made for Tours through America,
giving a choice of more than 200 Single and Tourist Tickets .
Thomas Cook and Son's General TravelUug Arrangements are so widely
extended, that they can supply Tickets to almost any point that Tourists may wish u>
visit, in many cases at reductions, many lunging from twenty-five to forty-five per cent.
1 >elo w ordinary fares. The regular Travelling ^cket being issued in all cases printed in
English on one side, and in the language of ihe country where it is used on the other
and it contains all the information the traveller needs.
Policies of Insurance against accidents of all kinds, by land and sea,
nre effected throt^h the 0£pice of Thomas Cook and Son, as Agents of the " Ocean,
Bailway, and General Accident Assurance Company, Limited."
Prog^rammes can be had gratuitously, on application at the Ofi&ces of
Thomas Cook and Son, or by post, in return for stamps covering postage.
Cook's Excursionist and Tourist Advertiser is published at short intervals
during the season inLondon, New York, and Brussels, at 2d., post-free, 3d., and con-
tains programmes and lists to the number of nearly one thousand specimen Tours.
Tickets for which are issued by Thomas Cook and Son, with fares by every Boute.
Cook's Continental Time Tables and Tourist Handbook, with Eight
Sectional Haps, price Is. Published monthly.
THOMAS COOK & SON,
Ohief Office : Ludgate Oirous, Fleet Street^ Lou<i<v^^ '^Ax
445, West Strand (opposite Cliarlas Ototo^\»XNss^ 5jciA.^ass^ ^
20 ADVERTISEMENTS.
THE MIDLAND GRAND HOTEL, LONDON.
R. ETZENSBERGER, Manager.
The Midland Grand Hotel, opened in May, 1873, with the adjoining
Station constitutes the
GRANDEST RAILWAY TERMINDS
IN THE WORLD.
Every modem appliance and improvement has been introduced in a
most liberal spirit ; Erard's Pianos are at the free disposal of the occupants
in all first-class private sitting-rooms. The Public Rooms are the finest
and best of any Hotel in the Kingdom. Bedrooms for 500 guests, most
luxuriously furnished with couches and easy- chairs, varying in charges from
2/6 to 14/- per day. A free area of several hundred yards* width surrounds
the building on every side, which contributes greatly to the privacy and
comfort of visitors, and makes the Midland Grand Hotel an exceptionally
healthy and most desirable residence for visitors intending to spend some
time in London.
GLASGOW HOTEL.
PHILFS COCKBURN HOTEL,
141, BATH STREET, GLASGOW.
FIJRST CLASS. CHARGES MODERATE.
AMERICAN NEWSPAPERS KEPT.
JAMES PHILP (late of U.S.), Proprietor.
ooozs:»s
BRITISH MUSEUM BOARDING HOUSE
69, Great Bussell Street, Bloomsbiiry, London.
This XhstabliabmeDt ia pleasantly situated within three minutes' walk of Oxford
Street and High Holhom, the great Ommibua xou\a \a \»Y\a City and the West End,
with eeu^ ikdUtiea for Tisiting evexy paxt ot tVi^HU^xo^'^.
Oi;0ntii«ntttl Hotels* 21
ALEXANDRIA (Egypt).
HOTEL D'EUROPB.
This Hotel is situated in the best and healthiest port of the town, facing the
large Consuls' Place. Gk>od caisine. Baths in the house. Omnibus at the Station.
The Hotel boats meet every Steamer. Moderate charges.
Cho '8 Cou/pons accepted.
BADEN-BADEN.
HOTEL DB HOLLANDB,
AND DEPBNDAVCE
AU BEAU SBJOUR.
A. EOSSLER, Proprietor.
This favourite and first-class Hotel, situated near the Kursaal, Promenade, and
Theatre, commands one of the most charming views in Baden. The Hotel and
D^pendance consists of 160 sleeping apartments, elegant sitting rooms, and garden.
Extensive and airy dining room, and a comfortable public sitting room, with piano
and library. It is conducted under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietor.
English and American newspapers. The Table d'hote of this Hotel is reputed of the
best qualitv in Baden. Fixed moderate charges for everything. Rooms from 2s.
and upwards. Cook'* Hotel Coupons accepted.
BELLAGIO (Lake of Como).
HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE
AND DEPEKDBVCB
VILLA SERBBLLONI.
Proprietors, MoBsrs. MEYER and ARRIGONI.
First-class Hotels, situated in the most splendid position of the Italian Lakes.
Large and beautiful Park. English Church Service. Moderate prices.
Cook's Hotel Coupons accepted,
BERNE.
HOTEL BELLE VUE.
Proprietor, F. OSSWALD.
A magnificent Hotel, situated in an exceptional position ; splendid view over the
Alps and the Aare. This Hotel is suited to the means of all, from its moderate
charges, combined vrith family comforts.
Cook's Cowpons accepted,
BOLOGNA.
GRAND HOTEL BRUN.
W. WELLER and Co., Proprietors.
First-rate accommodation for &inilies and single gentlemen ; magnificent dining
room ; conversation room, with pianoforte ; reading room, snppliea with the Txvmh.
andother principal papers; smoking room. Modet&te <^bBX%<e»« 'Y«sc«Rros^''^sQi:^!5c>ss^
tendance of the Proprietor.
Tk4 Motel CovffionB qf Jfesirt. Tkot. Coolc «md S«a ac«*iBit«a."^^»-
22 CONTINENTAL HOTELS.
— I I _ ___■■_ ■ _ -- - ^
BONN.
GRAND HOTEL ROYAL.
ON THE BANKS OF THE RHINE.
Proprietor, A. EBMEKBIL.
Tint-class Hotd of Europeia repute : largely patronised by English and
Amerioan families. Situation unequalled— uusing the Bbine, Seren mountains, and
Park, near Landing Place and Railway Station. Beautiful gardens, ladies' saloons,
reading and smoking rooms. Warm and oold baths. HigUy recommended.
Cook*$ ComponM acc«pt«d.
BRINDISI.
ORIENTAL HOTEL.
Proprietor, a. BBUBCHETTI.
Ladies and Gentlemen travelling to or from Australia, China, India, Egypt,
Plsleetine, or the Mediterranean Ports will find this Hotel a most desirable restlng-
plaoe. It combines European comfort with Oriental luxury, and is most pleasantly
situated on the Esplanade overlooking the Bay. Passengers land from the steamers
in front of the Hotel. English spoken.
Oook't Cov/pona received.
BRUSSKLS.
HOTEL DU GRAND MIROIR.
Proprietor, Mr. JULES DOWRIN.
A well conducted and old established Hotel, situated Rue ds la Mohtaoni, 28,
has au exoeUent reputation for its general comfort, cleanliness, superior accommo-
dation, and very moderate charges. The landlora speaks Ensrlish, French, Dutcn,
and Qerman. Omnibuses meet the trains at the Northern and Midi Stations.
The Hotel Coupone qf Mettre, Cook and Son are aeeepttd here.
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DB LA POSTE.
Proprietor, H. TILMAVB.
This excellent establishment, situated Rue Fosse aux Loups, will be found very
convenient to visitors who prize cleanliness and comfort. It is very substantially
furnished, has an excellent cuisine, and displays every attention to visitors, the
charges being moderate. It is well situated for tourists desirous of rendering
themselves familiar with the principal objects of interest in the Belgian capital,
and the Landlord wiU be found willing to afford every information in his power.
Proprietor speaks English, French, German, Dutch, and Italian. Omnibus to the
Stations. The Hotel Ootvpont qf Meeerx. Cook antt Son accepted here.
CAIRO (Egypt).
GRAND NEW HOTEL.
This new and magnificent Establishment is situated in the healthiest part of the
town, isunng the Public Ghurden and the Oi^ra Square. Good cuisine. Baths on
€tftc& Aoor, Omnibus at every traan. 'MoCieTa.^A cS^oax^i^.
Ooolc'8 Oou.potvs o«c«pUdi.
CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 23
CHAMOUNY.
GRAND HOTELS DB LONDRBS BT
D'ANGLBTBRRB.
Proprietor. 0REPAVX-TAIBB4Z.
HoiUM of the first class ; reooniinended to Families for their comfort and
irreproachable cuisine. These Establishments are newly famished. Situated near
to the Encash Church, the Post Office, and the Telegn.ph» Spleoidid view of Mont
Blanc. English gardens. Various kmguages spoken.
Cook's Coupons aeeeptsd.
COBLENCE.
HOTBL DU GBANT.
Proprietors* Messrs. EI8BNHANN BROTHERS.
This well-known and favourite first-class Hotel is delightfully situated opposite
the Castle of Ehrenbreitstein. It is the nearest to the landing-place of the SteEuners,
and commands a most beautiful view of the Rhine and surrounding country. This
highly recommended Establishment combines superior accommodation with mode-
rate prices, every attention being displayed towards Visitors, and facilities afforded
for their visiting the various objects of interest in the neighbourhood.
The Hotel Coupon* qfMeure. Cook and Son accepted here.
DAVOZ PLATZ.
CANTON DES GRISONS, SWITZERLAND.
HOTBL AND PBNSION BBLVBDBRB.
First-class Hotel, in the celebrated valley of Davos, 5,200 feet above the sea level,
particularly recommended to Englii^ travellers for its excellent cuisine, comfort-
able rooms, and sanitary arrangements, combined with most moderate charges.
Pension, including room, from 5s. 6d. and upwards per day. The English chaplain
resides in the Hotel, and the service is held there both in summer and winter.
F. C. COESTER, Proprietor.
Cook's Hotel Coupons accepted,
f — ' — _^^^— — ^^— — ^.—
DIEPPE.
GRAND HOTEL DBS BTRANGBRS.
Proprietor, JAVAULT.
This Hotel is in a charming position, directly opposite the sea, and dose to the
Baths. Table d'hote. Moderate prices.
Cook's Cowpons accepted,
DIJON.
HOTBL DU JURA.
DAVID and MERCIER, Proprietors.
This first-class Hotel, near the station, is highly recommended. Table d'hote.
English spoken.
The EottH ConjKHU qf Xewrt, Cook a-ad. ^u QAfi«iiU^«
24 CONTINENTAL MOTELS.
EINSIEDELN.
HOTEL PEACOCK.
Proprietor, CH. aTR-TANNEB (speaks English).
An old-establifllied and well-known Hotel and Boarding honse, opi>osite the cele-
brated Benedictine Abbey, and beautiful church. The greatest attention is paid to
the cooking, the service, and cleanliness. Post and telegraph in the house.
Th* jSoM Cowpoiu <^ Meisrt. Cook and Son are taken,
FLORENCE.
GRAND HOTEL D'EUROPE.
SANTA TRIiaTA SQUABE.
This convenient Hotel, under the direct management of the Landlord, Mr. P. del
BsLiiO, is situated in the central and finest part of the town, near St-a. Trinita
Bridge, Post Office, the Uffizzi and the Pitti Gkdleries. Families or Gentlemen will
find verj comfortable accommodation, with the most moderate charges. Good
Table d'hote. f alons for Ladies and Grentlemen. Arrangements made with
Families if desired. Foreign languages are spoken.
The holders of Thoe. Cook and Son's Hotel C(m'p<yns toill always have a corAial tDelcom^.
FLORENCE.
GRAND HOTEL DE RUSSIE.
Proprietor, PHILLIP TOMABETTI.
First-lass, beautiful position. Piazza Manin and Lung Arno. Patronised by the
best English and American Families. Highlj recommended for modem comforts
and very moderate charges. Beading and smoking rooms. Baths in the Hotel.
Omnibus to and from the Bailway Station. Under the immediate sui>erintendence
of the Proprietor himself.
The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cool and Son accepted here.
FRANKFORT.
SWAN HOTEL.
Proprietor. GEORGE FAT.
100 Apartments and Private Sitting Booms. This Hotel, well known by the
Signature oj Peace between France and Germany, 10th of May, 1871, at the Hotel, is
conducted under the direction of its Proprietor, Mr. Geoi^ Fay, who has had
many years' experience in studying the comforts of English and American travellers.
Every modem convenience, added to strictly moderate prices. Table d'hote at one
and five o'clock. Carriages at the Hotel. Hot and cold baths, &c. No charge for
the tMttol lights and attw dance. English and French papers. English, f rench, and
Italian spoken.
The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son accepted here.
FREIBURG (Baden).
HOTEL TRESCHER ZUM PFAUEN.
Mrst-dass Hotel. The Proprietor is anxious to promote the comfort of Visitors
Btaying in hia Hotel, and will give every information as to the points of Interest in
the nedgbbonrbood.
Tk€ SoM Coupont qf Metirt. Cook and Son •cc«pl«i\«T%,
CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 25
GENEVA.
HOTEL DE LA METROPOLE.
Director. PAUL MEI8TEBLIN.
First-class Hotel, facing the Lake and the English garden.
The Proprietor will have the greatest pleasure to assist and help in every wav all
Ck>ok's Toorists.
Cook's Coupons accepted,
— ,
GENEVA.
HOTEL DE LA COURONNE.
Proprietor. F. RATHGEB.
Facing the Lake, and in front of the National Monument. First-class Hotel.
Lift of the newest construction, by E. Heurtebise, Paris, of the greatest con-
venience to travellers.
CooTc't Coupons accepted.
GENOA.
HOTEL DE LA VILLB,
Proprietor, M. SNGEL.
HOTEL TROMBETTA, ci-devant FEDER.
SAJCB PBOPBIETOB.
This large establishment, situated in the centre of the town, facing the south,
with more than 60 front windows overlooking the sea and the picturesque environs,
and already a most agreeable residence, has been still further embellished by the
addition of a fine reading saloon, bath saloon, &c., and will be still more improved
by the efforts of the new Proprietor, to render it more deserving the high i>atronage
of the usual visitors. The Hotel C ouporu qf Mesars. Cook and Hon are accepted here.
HEIDELBERG.
HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.
Proprietor, Mr. HAEFELI GUJER.
This splendid and admirably conducted EstabHshment, in the finest situation of
the town, near the Bailroad and Post Office, commands, by its charming position,
the best view of the Promeuade, the Castle, and the Mountains ; and offers, by its
sui>erior arrangements, the comfort of the apartments, and careful and civil attend-
ance, all desirable attractions to Travellers. Ladies' sitting room and well-furnished
reading room. Hot and cold baths, &c. The charges ore moderate, and persons
desirous of visiting the environs will receive every attention. Omnibus meets every
train. The Motel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son are accep ted here.
HOSPENTHAL.
HOTEL AND PENSION MEYBRHOF.
Proprietors, FBERES METER.
A comfortable House, and charmingly situated, with moderate charges. Tele-
giwph and Post Office, where Diligence Tickets are issued for all routes. Carriages
to Fluelen ; to Biasca by the St. Gotthard ; to Bhone Glacier and Brigue by the
Fnrca: to Coire by the Oberalp. The Proprietor is Messrs. Cook's Agent tor
8pe<aal carriage anangements for the St. Gotthax^, ^^atc».««av^'S\»^«&.«
Cook*s HoUl CoufOKt oeeepteA.
26 CONTINENTAL HOTELS.
INNSBRUCK.
HOTEL DU TYROL.
Proprietor. CABL LANDBEE,
Formerly Manager of the Hotel dn Pare, Lugano.
First^olaaa Hotel, next to the Station, with all modem comforts. Beantifnl
view over the yallej of the Inn and of the mountains. Choice kitchen. Charges
yery reasonable. Arrangement made for protracted stay.
P.S. — From the roof of the Hotel one enjoys the best of Tiews over the town,
the valley of the Inn, and the mountains. Fine bird's-eye view.
Cook's Couyona accepted.
INTERLACKEN.
GRAND HOTEL RITSCHARD.
Conduoted by M. ED. RirSOSABD.
This nplendid first-class Establishment, situated in the centre of the Kurort,
contains 350 weU-fnmished rooms, and a beautifal dining-room for 250 persons,
ladies' saloon, conyersation, reading, and billiard rooms, 40 balconies, with splendid
view of the Jungfrau and Alps. A newly-erected comfortable bathing establishment,
with douches; large shady garden. The greatest attention is paid to the cooking
and service.
The Hotel Cfoupone qf Meeen. Choh and Son aeeepted here.
LECCO (Lake of Como).
HOTEL DEUX TOURS.
This Hotel, situated in the centre of the Town, and near the Lake, has elegant
ai>artments, ^uwing and dining rooms, restaurant. Omnibus meets all trains and
steamers. Excellent service of carriages and boats at fixed rates. To Tourists are
recommended the carriage drives Lecco-Bellf^o and Lecoo-Como ; ttie road passing
through beautiful gardens, picturesque villages, and a rich and fertile country.
Diligences for Cohco and Como, in correspondence with the Federal Post, start
from the Hotel. In the district of Lecco there still ^cist the House of the " Pro-
messe Spoee," the Castle of Fluminato, and many places interesting through their
historical associations. English spoken in the Hotel.
Cooh'i Coupow accepted.
LEGHORN.
HOTEL DU NORD.
Messrs. OADDINI and Co., Proprietors.
Cook'e Coupone aeeepted,
' " LUCERNE.
HOTEL DU OYGNB (Swan).
Conducted by Mr. H. HAEFELI.
The Swan Hotel is delightfully situated, immediately facing the Steamboat Station,
and commanding the best views of the Bigi, and other mountain scenery, lir. H.
HAxnu gratefully acknowledges the extensive support he has received from English
visitors and tourists, and b^s to intimate that, encouraged by past success, he has
now added another large establishment, which wiU enable him to provide aooommo-
dation tor greatly increased numbers. Tourists travelling under the arrangements
ofMeeara. Oooe A Sov will have the best atteu.^on.,at the same rates as arechaiged
bj- the other selected Swiss HoteiB. ^ng^\i «^'toa\^l^^^^Ks^Mnetor. Various
cironmr Ucketa and the Hotel Ooupona ol ttsaaxa. Goo'k.^ ^"a<»s^\«i\aftAissMk.
CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 27
LUINO (Lago Maggiore).
HOTEL SIMPLON,
Adjoining the Steamboat Qa&j. Newly decorated ; with fine Garden, Beading
and Billiard Scorns, Baths, &c. Carriages for excursions. Open all the year.
Cook'$ HoM Coupon$ aeetpied,
MARTIGNY.
HOTEL CLERC.
Conducted by M. CLBRC.
A new and commodions Hotel, pleasantly situated, facing the Bhone YaUcy, of
which it commands a magnificent view. Visitors here receive the most liberal
attention, every care being taken to ensure their comfort. The accommodation is
good and the prices reasonable. The Hotel forms a capital starting iK>int for
excursions to the Chateau la Batia, the Fordaz, the Gietroz Glacier, the Hospice of
the Great 8t. Bernard, and, where necessary, guides and moles can be obtained, at
moderate (diarges. 7%e Tickett qf M.eur». Cook and Son for guid«$ and mules are
adeepted here, aleo Meters. Cook and Son's Hotel Coupons.
MAYKNGE.
HOTEL DE HOLLANDE.
Proprietor, Mr. FERDINAND BVDINGEN.
This well-known and favourite Hotel is situated opi>osite the landing idace of the
Bhine steamers, and near the Bcdlway Station, and is one of the best on the Rhine
for the accommodation of Bnglish Families and Tourists. Mr. Budingpen, the Pro-
prietor, has newly furnished the Hotel throughout, and hox>es, by unremitting attri-
tion and moderate prices, to merit the patronage of English Travellers. The Hotel
commands a fine view of the Rhine, and will be found very convenient for Visitors.
The Hotel Coupon* of Messrs. Cook and Son accepted here.
MEIRINGEN.
HOTEL DU SAUVAGE.
Proprietor, M. E. BAUD.
An old established Hotel and Boarding House, situated opposite the Alpbach and
the Reichenbach, of which there is a fine prosi>ect from the Hotel. Splendid view
of the Glacier de Rosenlaiu, Engelshomer, Wellhom, &c. The Alpbach Falls are
illuminated every evening throughout the season. The Hotel has been newly
arranged, and can boast of excellent service and moderate terms. An English
Church is situated in the large and beautiful garden of the Hotel. English, French,
and German newspax>ers. Billiard-room; warm and cold baths. The Hotel forms
a good head-quarters for Tourists desiroas of making short excursions in the neigh-
bourhood. Telegraph and Post-office &cing the Hotel.
The Hotel Coupons qf Messrs. Cook and Son accepted here.
MENTONE.
HOTEL DE TURIN.
Proprietor, Uoxu. P. LUaANI.
This Hotel is situated in the centre of the city, far from the noise of the sea,
with a southern aspect, and surroimded by magnificent ^saxdso&s >*» Sa ^^'^^J^'!^^
prettiest Hotels in Mentone. It has been en^tKJVs T«na^re!w!^\i.l HJaa-ass* -^-tsssp^^fi^^-^
CooVs HcftA CouiMyiws OAC«fi|VA^%
28 CONTINENTAL HOTELS.
MILAN.
HOTEL DE L' EUROPE.
Proprietor, ENRICO MARCIONNI.
COESO VITTORIO, EMANUELE, 9 to 11.
Aparfcments overlooking the Corso and Gardens. Omnibus to the Station. Table
d'hote at fixed price. Foreign new8pai>ers.
Cook's Coupons accepted.
MILAN.
GRAND HOTEL DE MILAN.
Proprietor, F. BPATZ.
First-class Hotel. The onlj house at Milan which possesses a hydraulic lift*
Near the road to the Central Station, the Scala Qrand Theatre, Victor Emanuel
Gallery, the Cathedral, Telegraph, and the Breda Palace of Fine Arts.
Cook's Hotel Coupons a,ccepted,
NEUHAUSEN, SCHAFFHAUSEN, FALLS* of the RHINE.
HOTEL SCHWETZERHOF.
Proprietor, F. WEOENSTBIN.
The Schweizerhof (1877 greatly enlaiged) is no wa splendid first-rate Establish-
ment, opposite the celebrated FALLS OF THE RHINE, surrounded by a fine park
and garden, and has long been known to English and Ainerican visitors as one of
the best houses in Switzerland. The situation is unsurpassed, the eye ranging a
distance of above 180 miles— a Panoramic View including the whole of the Swiss
Alps and the " Mont filanc." Healthy climate. English Church Service. Preserved
trout fishing. Prices moderate. Pension. Hotel omnibuses at NEUHAUSEN
and SCHAFFHAUSEN. Cook's Coupon* accepted,
OSTEND.
HOTEL D'ALLEMAGNE.
Proprietor, A. STRACKE.
This lai^e and well-known first-class Establishment is situated 24, Rue du Qoai
(centre of the town), close to the Carousal and the Casino. Hhs an excellent
reputation for its comfort, liberal accommodation, and reasonable terms. Arrange-
ments for the Winter and Summer season.
The Kotsl Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son accepted.
OUCHY (near Lausanne).
HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE.
Proprietors, JULES PERRIN and SONS.
Under the x>er8onal management of the Proprietors since 1874, who have newly-
/nmiahed the Hotel throughout. The Hotel enjoys a beautiful position on the edge
of the Lake, and ia situated opposite the landing place of the steamboats, and
commands a magniflcent view of the Alps. Poat Office in the Hotel. Omnibus
and carriagea tor the Railway Station.
^^koldtri of Cook and 8on^% TloitX CotipoiM «iU aUDa«|»'KaiBe a ewriVoA. ««\eQ«A.
CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 20
PARIS.
LONDON AND NEW YORK HOTEL.
PLACE DU HAVEB.
Proprietor, Mr. OHARDON.
Well-known to English Visitors for bein? very centrally situated and homely
comfortable. Arrangements made with families. Pension by the week in winter.
CooVs HoUl Cov/pona accepted.
PARIS.
HOTEL St. PETERSBURG.
Oonducted by U. MOTTE.
This well-condnoted Hotel, situated 35, Bne Caumartin, will be fonnd very con-
venient for visitors to the French capital. Splendidly re-famished. Near the
Grand Opera House.
Coole*a Couponn accepted.
PARIS.
Visitors to Paris will meet with comfort and moderate charges at the
HOTEL DE LONDRES ET DE MILAN.
BERETTA, Proprietor.
8, Bue St. Hyacinthe — Saint Honors, near the Tuileries.
Arrangements made with families.
PARIS.
HOTEL COQUILLIBRE.
Proprietor, Mr. PUIOSAGU.
The Proprietor of this Hotel begs to inform the English Visitors to Paris that
they will find every comfort at his House, which is most centrally situated, midway
between the Bank of France, Palais Boyal, General Post Office, and the Palace of
the Louvre. Omnibuses pass every few minutes. English spoken. Moderate
terms.
PERPIGNAN.
GRAND HOTEL DE PERPIGNAN.
Proprietor, J. JONOA.
Coofc** Coupone accented.
30 CONTINENTAL HOTELS.
ROME.
HOTEL D'ALLBMAGNB.
Proprleton, UK. LUaANI and P&SSBNZANI.
This Hotel is sittiated in the host part of Borne, near the l*iazza di Sp&gna, and
the Corso.
Cook*$ Sottl Coupotu aeeepUd,
SAN RGMO
GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA.
Proprleton, C. PAVICCI and P. TARANI. 0. PAHICCI. Manager.
This oomfortable establishment, which is very pleasantly situated In the town,
will be found deserving the patronage of Visitors proceeding over the Comiche
Boad, one of the most picturesque imaginable, tbe Landlord being desirous of main-
taining the reputation of the Hotel for civility and moderate charges. The building
commands several fine views of the surrounding scenery, and x>os8e88es ampie
accommodation for Families. The cuisine is g^ood, and the attendance efficient.
The climate will be found very mild and pleasant, especially for invalids.
Tk* Hotel Coupons of Meutn. Cook and Son cure aeeepted here.
SGHONFELS (Canton of Zug, Switzerland, Mountain of Zug).
HOTEL OF THE STAG.
Proprietor, B. LEHZIKGEB.
Elevation, 3000 feet above the level of the sea. Monntain air, baths and douches,
milk and whey cures, mineral waters. Beautiful park of fir trees, containiu? 250
trees. Splendid i>08ition in front of Mount Bigid, mild, well sheltered, and yet
bracing air, wonderful scenery and view of the Alps and tbe surrounding Lakes.
Very quiet residence. Direct omnibus service between the Bulway Station of
Zug and the Hotel. Telegraph in the house. Apply, Hotel of the Stag, at Zn?.
Detailed Prospectuses gratis of the Proprietor. Cook'n Couvonx accepted.
SCHWALBACH.
HOTBL METROPOLB.
G. HERBSTER. Proprietor.
This favourite first-class Hotel is situated in the prettiest, most airy, and
healthiest part of Schwalbach, overlooking the New Cursaal and English Church,
close to the Springs and Boyal Baths. The Proprietor having had long experience
in the wants and tastes of English travellers, is weU able in every respect to larovide
for their comfort. Laa^e and small apartments, good table d'hnte room. IS ice
readirg room, and a beautiful winter garden. Time* taken in. Moderate terms.
Boarding if desired. Most of the apartments with balconies.
Cook's Rotel Coupons accepted.
THOUNE (Thun).
HOTEL BELLE VUB.
Conducted by M. SCHMIDLIN.
This Hotel is charmingly situated outside the town, in the centre of a large and
beautiful park, delightfully adorned with gardens, and will be found very comfort-
able by those usimp it; the charges being reasonable, and the attendance good.
There ia an English Church in the park. The Hotel faces the Steamboat Pier,
wJu'ch JB Bitnate at the end of the lawn ; the boats plying to and f^m Interlaken.
Every facility ia afforded Tourists desixonB ot "nsaXams the neighbourhood, which is
rezy pretty, and full ot attractions.
TAe Motel Coupom qf ICeinrt. Gook and S<m veemioeiLVfrt.
CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 31
TRIESTE.
HOTEL DE LA VILLE.
Proprietor, F. PEOGLEE.
This first-lass well-lmown Hot^, the only one on the Qnai, is weU reoommended
for its oomfort. Baths in the Hotel. Good cooking and attendance. Moderate
charges. Weekly or monthly arrangements can also be made. Omnibus at the
Station. Carriages for visiting Miramar. Grand Hotel, Adelsberg, under the same
management. Cook't Coupons aeeept§d,
TRYBERG (Black Forest).
BLACK FOREST HOTEL.
Proprietor, L. BEIBINOER.
Station, Trybeig ; situated on a charming height, 9000 feet above sea level, near
a romantic cascade of many falls, with park-like extensive promenades, and magni-
ficent fir-tree forests, commanding splendid views. It recommends itself by tbe
elegance and gnreatest ix>88ible comfort of its arrangements for all visitors who seek
refined recreation or health. English, French, and German spoken.
Cook'$ Hotel Coupons accepted.
VARESE (Italy). ^
In direct communication by rail with Milan and Lake Maggiore, Como, &c.
HOTEL VARESE.
D. MABINI, Manager.
Opened 1st July, 1874. Beautiful first-class Establishment, offering all the
comforts and requirements of the present time. It conteins 200 rooms and
saloons. Baths on each fioor. Its situation commands the most extensive
view of the Alps, Monte Bosa Chain, Lakes Maggiore and Yarese. An extensive
park and grounds, with grottoes, etc., surround the Hotel. Pension the whole
year round. Omnibus to and from the station. The house is heated in the winter
season. Begular English Church in the Hotel. Begular diligence service,
connecting I^es Lugano, Yarese, and Maggiore. Cook's Coupons accepted.
VENICE.
HOTEL VICTORIA.
Manager, M. EMIL THOMA.
This first-class Establishment is most centrally situated, close to the Piazzo S.
Marco (without crossing a single bridge), the principal Theatres and Churches.
The Hotel Yictoria, entirely rebuilt and improved, contains 180 bedrooms, lai^e
and small apartments, furnished with every modem requisite. Beautiful pubuc
sitting rooms, smoking and billiard rooms, table d'hote, baths, &c. Charges consi-
derably more moderate than in any other first-rate Establishment in the city.
Every facility afforded for excursions in gondolas to the various parts of the city.
Gk>naolas from the Hotel meet all trains.
The Hotel Coupon* of Mes»r$. Cook and Son are aeeepfed here.
VERVIERS.
HOTEL DU CHEMIN DE FER.
Proprietor, LOUIS BENSONNET.
This Hotel is situated opposite the Station, and the Buffet Bestaurant at the
Station belongs to same Proprietor. It was occupied by the late Bm.\k«fi5n.'^'«?»;^s»sv^>
on ^e 4th September, 1870.
CooKt Hotel Oo«9<»iu oceesteai.
32 CONTINENTAL HOTELS.
VIEGE.
HOTEL DE LA POST E.
Froporieton, Messni. LAOOEE and 8TAMPFER.
The sitnationof Yiege is completely changed by the- embankment of the Bhone
and YiBp ; and this Hotel is only five minutes' distance from the Station, to and
from which the Omnibus is gratis. There is a splendid view over the mountains
and glaciers of Balf rin.
Cook't Coupon* accepted.
ZURICH.
HOTEL DE BELLEVUE.
Proprietors, MM. ERMELL and POHL.
This splendid and admirably conducted Establishment, situated on the shore of
the Lake, commands, by its charming position, the best view of the Lake and the
Alps, and offers, by its superior arrangements, the comfort of the Apartments, and
a careful and civil attendance, all desirable attractions to Travellers. Ladies'
sitting-room, and well furnished reading-rooms. One hundred and twenty-five
ftpartmcnts. Pension arrangements made for Families. N.B. — The Belle Vue
Hotel is situated close to the Lake. To avoid any miutake be sure to ask for the
*' Belle Vue au Lac." Advantages:— Stone Staircase to the top of the Hotel;
Belvedere on the fourth floor ; nearly all the rooms of the Hotel offering a view of
the Lake and Alps. 2£*$»rt. Cook and Son « Hotel Coupons accepted.
All Gommunications relating to Adver-
tisements in COOK'S TOURIST HANDBOOKS
to be addressed to THOMAS COOK & SON
(Advertisement Department), Tourist Offices,
Ludgate Circus, London. ^
ft
HARRONiS PORTMANTEAUS
The Tourist's Oo-operative Store for the Manu-
iBctOTB and Supply of P0BTMASTBAU3, TBUNKS. BiOS. DEESS B18KETS.
and eieiy Article tor Travelling Wholesale Frlcee for Cash only, 361, HIQH
HOLBORN (Tomporarj PreiniWB). foe the
One Guinea Real Leather Expanding Railway
FORTMANTEAIT. a in long, with Dutsida Sbapa. Jny article (onianled tor
appmyal on receipt uf t.O.O., poTuble to L. HAREiDN. iniutnted Hit tree.
HARRONS BAGS
The "KNOCKABOUT" Bag (Registered). This
tbe MBonfacturer.^iKnON, The TOUBISt's CO-OPEEATrVK STOBE, 2M,
HiaH I
HARRON'S DRESS TRUNKS
Ladies' Dress Trunks. The " Holhorn." 30 in.
lone, with thnwmoiable BoDDet compartmenta, p>ice lOa. 6(1 „ itrongl)' rpcom-
inoDdedbjUiBEdiH)ro(Ilie"Qi«Bii."andflieOSBOBNEDRE38CABB,withoo.!fti-
giUe Bomiet diiiitlDna, price lUB. 6d., are tno of the gmteatbugalnaeTeT offered.
Second-Hand Portmanteaus, BaffB. etc.
always beobtaJDedgimt,Pa™BiiiBatai»BJi"&'*.'™TSi^^M5fe%^^
eTOSE, 1-1, HIOH HOLBOBU IJg\^B Poot*'^ «H fanmAa.™^ ""■"
DR. J. COLLIS BROWHE'S CHLORODYHE.
THE ORIGINAL AN D ONLY GENUINE,
A DVICE TO INVALIDS.— If you wish to obtain quiet refresliiiig
J\. sleep free from headache, relief from pain and anguish, to calm
and assuage Uie weary achingn of protracted disease, invigorate the
Tii.'rvous media, and regulate the circulating systems of the body, you
will provide vourself with that marvellous remedy discovered by Dr. J.
(MOLLIS BROWNE (late Medical Staff), to which he gave the name of
CHLORODYNE
And whicli is admitted by the Profession to be the most wonderful and
valualwe remedy ever discovered.
GHLOKODYNE is the best remedy known for Coughs, Consump-
tion, Bronchitis, Asthma.
CHLOBODYiNE effectually checks and arrests those too often
fatal diseases— Diphtheria, Fever, Croup, A^e.
CHLORODYNE acts like a charm in Diarrhoea; and is the only
specific in Cholera and Dysentery.
CHLORODYNE effectually cut« short all attacks of Epilepsy,
Hysteria, Palpitation, and Spasms.
CHLORODYNE is the only palliative in Neuralgia^ Bheumatism,
Oont, Cancer, Toothache, Meningitis, Ac.
Tlie Right Hon. EABL EUSSELL hrs graciously favoured J. T. DAVEKPORT
with the following^ —
" Rarl Bas4ell commnnicatod to the College of Physicians that he Teoeived a
despatch from Her Majesty's Consul at Manilla, to the effect that Cholera had been
mKing fearfuUv jmd that the ONLY remedy of any service was CHLORODYNE.**
— rfee Lancet, December Ist, IStil.
FiOin W. Vr-sT^ijw Pctttgreuj, M.D.
I linve po h<fsit ition in statin-.c that I have never met with any medioine so ^-
OiioiouK n« au lUiti-siiaftTnodic an<\ Seiiative. I have used it in Consumption, Asthma,
Diiirrhcea, and other diseases, and am perfectly satisfied with the results.
'From Dr. B. J. Boultnn and Co., Homcasth.
We have made pretty extensive use of Chlorodyne in our practice lately, and
look upon it as an excelleut direct sedntive and anti-spasmodic. It seems to allay
pain and i^ri^ation in whatever organ, and from whatever cause. It induces a
feeling of comfort and quietude not obtainable bv any other remedy, and it seems
to xH^sscss this g^reat advantage over all other sedatives, that it leaves no unpleasant
af fc^»r effects.
CAUTION— The extmordinary medical rei>orts on the eSLchcy of Oblorodyne
render it of vital importance that the public should obtain the genuine, wMch
bears the words " Dr. J. Collis Browne's Chlorodyne/*
Vice-Chau(H'llor Wood stated that Dr. J. CoLiiis Bnowms was undoubtedly the
Tnvcutor of CHLOBODYNfi ; that the whole story of the defendimt. Freeman, was
doli^eratelj' untrue.
Lord Chancellor Selbonie and Lord Justice Jnmes state 1 that the defendant had
mad«i a delibonire inisrepresentation of the decision of Yice-Olumcellor Wood.
Oljemists throughout the land coutirm this decision that Dr. J. C. BEOWNE
was the Inventor of CHLOEODYNK.
Sohl in Bottles at Is. l^cl., 2s. 9(1., and 4s. 6d., hy aU ChmrUsta,
SOLE MANUFACTUREE,
•'?5, Gt. Biissell St., B\ooTOaWT7,\iQ^\iC^^,
\
SAMPSON & CO.,
SURPLICE SHIRT, 1
Six for
45s.,
51s.
COLOURED FRENCH CAMBRIC. All New Patterns.
SURPLICE SHIRTS. 6 for 45s.
SARATTA GAUZE. Suitable for Travelling.
SURPLICE SHIRTS. 6 for 45s.
FLANNEL SHIRTS. ios. 6d. and 12s. 6d.
PYJAMAS SLEEPING SUITS. 12s. 6d. and i6s. 6d.
DttaiUd Prictd Omifit Lists and Stlf-Mtasurtmint Cards unt on applicatioH.
TAILORING DEPARTMENT.
Homespun Trousers, 16s,, 21s.
Tweed or Angola Trousers, 25s., 30s.
Homespun Suits, 53s., 70s.
Diagonal Ctoth Morning Ooat and Waistcoat, 75s., QOs.
Blue Serge Suits, 63s., 70s.
Tebms;— All Goods Marked IN Plain Fiaunea. Cash, 5 pi
gA MPgON & CO. ,
Hosiers, Gilaver^ i^^f'^-^i'^i y. Outfitters,
-i3sd ^- '""■'.■■■; ' ■•'-;■■"■ ^
RHd
130, 03
NEAR I