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OOdK'S EXOTTRSIONS, TOURS, 

^ AHD 

GENEEAL TE AYELLING AEE AMEMENTS. 

THTOMAS COOZ ANQ^OIT, 

PIONEEBS, Inangarators, and Promoters of the principal aystems of Tonrs 
established in Great Britain and Ireland, and on the Cofitinent of 
Europe, are now giving increased attention to Ordinary Travelling Arrange- 
ments, with a view to rendering them as easy, practicable, and economical ais 
oircnmstances will aUow. During 35 years more than four millions of 
Travellers have visited near and distant places under their arrangements ; and 
their system of Tickets now provides for visiting the chief points. of interest 
in the Four Quarters of the Globe. 

Cook's West of England Tours, -combining Bailway, Coach, and Steamer 
to every point of interest between Bristol and the Land's End. The Tickets axe 
prepared in Coupon form, and can be issued in combination, to meet the requirements 
of the Tourist. Hotel Coupons are also issued for First Class Hotels in the District. 

Cook's Scotch Tours cover aU points of Tourist interest in Scotland, 
Oban, Staffa, lona. Isle of Skgre, Caledonian Ca^al, Kyles of Bute, the Trossachs, the 
Highlands, the Lalce District, Edinburgh, etc. ; dfed can be used in a similar manner to 
the Irifith TOurs. 

Cook's Irish Toars.~Thoma8 Cook and 'Son issue Tourist Tickets to and 
through all ports of Ireland, including the Gi|pt's Causeway, Belfast, Dublin, Galway, 
« Loch Erne, the Lakes of KiUamey, etc. They can be used in connection with Tickets 
from London, or any town on the Midland Btfilway. 

Cook's Tlcdcets to Paris are available by the Shortest and Cheapest 
Boutes, and by Dover and Calais. * * , 

Cook's Swiss Tickets are available by every Route, and Cover every 
part of the Ck>untry. Thomas *C00k and Son are the 9nly Authorized Agetits of every 
Swiss Bailway, Steamboat, and Diligence Company. Every Alpine route is included in 
their arrangements. 

Cook's Italian Tickets-provide for 6very Boute to and through Italy, and 
are offered at great Reductions in Fares. • * 

Cook's Tours to Holland, Belgium, and the Shine, are arranged upon a 
most comprehensive basis. Tickets IJ^eing provided for every Boute, for single and 
return journeys, and for Circular Tonrs. Breaks of journey are allowed at all places of 
interest. 

Cook's Personally-conducted Tours have become a most popular feature 
in their arrangements. Parties are organized to leave London weekly during the season 
for Switzerland, Qermany, Italy, •and various parts of the Continent. 

The Steam Navigation of the NUe is committed by the Khedive Govern- 
ment entirely to Thomas Cook and Son. The steamers (the only oneq on the Nile) 
ply between Cairo and the First C^aract (600 miles), and the Second Cataract (810 
miles). Tickets can be had, and Berths secured, at any of Thomas Cook and Son's 
OfELces. 

Tours to Palestine are rendered easy, safe, and economical, by the 
^P^oz-arransrementB of Thom&B OoolS. and SOU, wbo now have their own Besldent 
'^^fflWerio Beyront and Ja£Ea. Tbey are therefore pr«pated to couaLUcViAaxs^b ox ataalV 



Cook's Exomisioss avd Towh-eonUMud, 



parties in the most comfortable maimer throngli the coontry ; to Jerusalem, the^Dead 
Sea, the Jordan, Damascus, Sinai, etc. The parties can be so fixed as to go i^idepen- 
dently or imder personal management any time between October and April. Qrer one 
thousand ladies and gentlemen have visited Palestine under their arrangements. ! 

Turkey, Greece^ t)ie Levant, etc.— Thomas Ckxdc and Soi^are now pre- 
pared to issue Tickets by any line of Steamers, to any port touched by the Austrian 
Iiloyd's, M^ssageries Ifaritimes, and Bubattino Co.'s Steamers. 

India, Cblna, etc.—- Thomas Cook and Son are the Agents of the pxinoipal 
Steamship Gompanies of the world, and are prepared to issue Tickets from South- 
ampton, Venice, Ancona, Genoa, Naples, and Brindisi, to Alexandria, Aden, Bombay, 
Calcutta, Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, or any other point in India or Ohina. 

Algerian Tonrs.— Thomas Cook and Son issne Tickets by any rente 
to Algeria, and over the Algerian Bailways and Diligences. 

Norway, Sweden, and Denmark.—- Thomas Cook and Son now issue 

Tourist Tickets by all principal Bailways and Steamers for the most interesting parts 
of Scandinavia. 

Bonnd the World.— Thomas Cook and Son are prepared ft issue a direct 
travelling Ticket for a journey Bound the World by Steam, available to go either West 
or East. First Class, from £190. 

Cook's Hotel Coupons, availikble at oyer three hundred first-class Hotels 
in various parts of the world, can.^'had by travellers purchasing Cook's TouriSt 
Tickets, guaranteeing them first dass acoommodation at fixed and regular-prices. 

Passages to America and Canfula are secured by Thomas Cook and Son 

for all the ehiief lines of Steamers. Arrangements are made for Tours through America, 
living a choice of more than 200 BingU^^d Tourist Tickets; and an Office has been ^ 
opened in New York, under the joint ansngement of *C00kj Son, and Jenkins, 261, 
Broadway. 

Thomas Cook and Son's General .Travelling Arrangements are so widely 

extended, that^ey (»n supply Tickets to almost any point that Tourists may wish to 
visit, in many oases at reductions, many rangring from twenty-five to forty-five per cent, 
below ordinary fares. The regular TraveUiiik Ticket being issued in all cases printed in 
English on one side, and in the language of the country where it is used on the other, 
and it contains all tiie information the traveller needs. 

Polices Of .. Insurance a^lunst accidents of all' kinds, by land and sea, 
are effected through the Office of fThomas' Cook and Son, as Agents of the ** Ocean, 
Bailway,*and General Accident Assurance Company, Limited." 

Prognrammes can be had gratuitously, .on application at the Offices of 
Thomas Cook and Son, or by post, in return for stamps covering postage. 

Cook's Excursionist is published at short intervals during the season in 
London, New York, and Brussels, at 2d., post-free, 3d., and contains programmes and 
lists to the number of nearly one thousand specimen Tours, Tickets for which are 
issued by Thomas Cook and Son, with fares by every Boute. 

Cook's. .Continental Time Tables and Tourist Handbook, with Eight 

Sectional Ma]^, price Is., post-free. Published monthly. 

THOMAS COOK & SON, 

OMef Office: Ludgate Oiicus, Il&^t ^\:t^^\>^^^^^^>^^^ 

446, West strand (opposite Cliarias Ctos^^\.^^.Vs^ ^txSl^^-w^ 



DITEBESTDra ¥OBE FOB TEAVELLESS. 



Handsomely bound In ol. gilt. Vols. I. & II., price 4s. 6d. each. 

ALL THE WORLD OYER, 

A WORK OF TRAVEL, INCIDENT, LEGEND, d RESEARCH. 
Edited by EDWIN HODDER, F.R.G.S. 

Embellished with Handsome Haps, and profusely ninstrated. 



liiso? OIF jsj:-a.:ps. 



>1. X. 

ALGERIA. 

NAPLES and EHVIUONS. 

GREECE. 

SWITZERLAND. 

SWEDEN and NORWAY. 

PANORAMA Of the RHINE. 



31. XX. 

PLAN OF POUPEn. 

PLAN OF VENICE. 

MAP OF EASTERN TOURS. 

„ EGYPT. 

„ HOLLAND AND BELGIUM 

„ ITALY. 



THE FIRST VOLUME CONTAINS 

Birds of Passage ; or, a Six Weeks' Romance (complete in Nineteen 
Chapters). By T. Ambrose Heath. 

Articles on Algeria, Norway, Sweden, The Far North, Ceylon, Italian 
Lakes, Naples and Thereabouts, Lake of Geneva, The Ardennes; Our 
Travellers* Club, &c., &c. 



THE SECOND VOLUME CONTAINS 

A L*^ve Ghaae ; or. Autumn Manoeuvres (complete in Twelve Chapters). 
By T. Ambrose Heath. 

On the Track of the Pilgrim Fathers ; A Ride through the Sabines ; Field 
Sports in Ceylon ; Our Holiday in Sweden ; Alexandria and Cairo, The 
North Cape, Ragusa, Venice, Mount Etna, Mont St. Michel, City of 
Goa, The Jumping Procession at Echtemach, The Judengasse at Frankfort- 
on-the-Main, Lake of Zurich, Wmter Residence in Torquay, Travel Talk, 
Our Travellers' Club, &c, &c. 

And a variety of interesting matter contributed by well-known 

Authors and Travellers. 



Xoj^no^r ' /'^^^^' ^OOK & SON, LuDGkTTL Ci^CM^. 

(HODDER 8c STOUGHTON,rxTE^i5osT¥.^ ^qnv 



COOK'S 
TOURIST'S HANDBOOK 



FOR 



THE BLACK FOREST. 



Hoh-Cd 4- I . >-^^ 




ft 






•a.;.' 



-.• » 



•»■» 



a 



COOK'S 
TOURIST'S HANDBOOK 

FOR 

THE BLACK FOREST. 




THOMAS COOK & SON, LUDGATE CIRCUS, E.C. ; 
SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & Co. 

1876. 



CONTENTS. 



INTRODUCTORY. page 

PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR TOURISTS. 

Luggage, I ; Custom-house Examinations, i ; Passports, x ; 
Money, 2 ; Time-tables, 3 ; Postage, 3 ; Fees, 3 ; Time for 
Visiting the Black Forest, 4 ; Hotels, 4 ; Facilities for Tour- 
ists in the Black Forest, 5 ; Language : showing how it is 
possible for a traveller not knowing German, or any 
language other than English, to make the Tour of the Black 
Forest, 6 ; Plan of Work, 9 ; How to Reach the Black 
Forest : from England, 9 ; from Switzerland, 10 ; Diligence 
Routes in the Black Forest, 10 I — 10 

THE BLACK FOREST. 

General Features, 14; Scenery of the Black Forest, 15; 
Geology, 17; Agriculture, 18; The People, i8; Manufac- 
ture of Clocks and Watches, 19 ; History, 22 . , 14 — ^22 

Baden-Baden 25 

Environs of Baden-Baden 32 

Baden to Freiburg. 34 

The Kaiserstuhl . .37 

Freiburg 39 

Environs of Freiburg , ^ hj^ 

Alt Breisach , . . S*^ 



Ti CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Freiburg to Basle 54 

Basle > • • • • 55 

Environs of Basle 62 

Basle to Schaffhausen 63 

Neuhausen : Falls of the Rhine ... . . . 66 

Schaffhausen to Constance 70 



THE BADEN STATES, OR BLACK FOREST RAILWAY. 

Offenburg to Hausach 73 

Hausach to Wolfach 77 

Wol£Bu:h to Rippoldsau 79 

Wolfech to Freudenstadt By the Kinzigthal . . 82 

Hausach to Hornberg 84 

hornberg 85 

Romberg to Schrambeig and the Bemeck Valley. . 86 

Hornberg to Triberg 88 

Valley of the Niederwasser 88 

Triberg 89 

Triberg to Villingen 91 

St Georgen 91 

Villingen 93 

Villingen to Donaueschingen 94 

Donaueschingen 95 

Donaueschingen to Engen 98 

Engen and the Hohgau 99 

Engen to Singen loi 

SiNGEN TO Schaffhausen 103 

Singen to Constance 104 

Constance .......... iqc 

Lake of Constance 108. 

Excursion to the Upper Danube Valley . . . .110 

Ths Island of Reichenau 11^ 



CONTENTS. Yii 

PAGE 

Baden TO Freudenstadt, by the Murgthal . . . .115 
Gemsbach . . . * 116 

Baden to Wildbad 120 

Wildbad 122 

Wildbad to Pforzheim 123 

Wildbad to Freudenstadt 124 

Baden to Forbach 125 

FORBACH TO HERRENWIESE AND BUHL 125 

ACHERN TO THE HORNISGRINDE, MUMMELSEE, AND AlLER- 

HEILIGEN 126 

AcHERN (by Kappel) to Allerheiligen . . . .129 
Allerheiligen 129 

Allerheiligen to Oppenau 130 

Appenweier to Oppenau and the Kniebis Baths . .130 

The Kniebis Baths 132 

Oppenau to Freudenstadt . . . ; . . .133 

Freiburg to the Hollenthal, etc 134 

Stemen, Holsteig 137 

Sternen (Hollenthal) to St. Blasien 138 

St Blasien 140 

St. Blasien to Albbruck 142 

AlbbrQck 144 

Sternen (Hollenthal) to Hochenschwand .... 144 
Hochenschwand 145 

Hochenschwand to Waldshut 148 

Hochenschwand to Albbruck 148 

Hochenschwand to Todtmoos and Wehr .... 149 

Hochenschwand to St. Blasien 149 

Triberg to Furtwangen 149 

Furtwangen 150 

Furtwangen to Waldkirch AND Denzlingen . . .151 
Waldkirch . . 152 

Freiburg to Todtnau and the Feldberg .... i^z 
TheFddbeigr ^V»i 



viii CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Badenweiler 155 

Environs of Badenweiler . 156 

Badenweiler to Krotzingen, by the Belchen and Mflnster- 

thal 157 

The Belchen 157 

TODTNAU TO SCHOPFHEIM 1 57 

Schonau 159 

Schopfheun 159 

SCHOPFHEIM TO BaSLE l6o 

ToDTNAU TO Brennet, by the Wehrathal . . . .161 
Wehr 162 

ToDTNAU TO St. Blasien 163 

The Hollenthal to Donaueschingen . . . .163 
Neustadt , • . 163 ^ 

The Hollenthal to Schaffhausen 164 L 

Lenzkirch 164 ^ 



\^rA\jLj 






COOK'S 

HANDBOOK FOR THE BLACK FOREST. 



|firfr0dttdorg. 



PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR TOURISTS. 

LUGGAGE. 

Take as little as possible. In France, as a rule, each pas- 
senger is allowed 661bs. of luggage free ; in Holland and many- 
parts of Germany, 5olbs. ; but in some districts of Germany, 
and in Switzerland, Belgium, and Italy, all luggage, except that 
which the passenger carries in his hand, must be paid for unless 
stated otherwise upon the ticket. 

CUSTOM-HOUSE EXAMINATIONS 

are generally made at the station nearest the frontier. Thus 
between Belgium and Germany luggage is examined at Verviers ; 
but if registered through to Cologne by first-class express train, 
it is examined at Cologne. Passengers must always be present 
at the Custom-House Examinations, and hand their keys to the 
• examining officer. 

PASSPORTS 

are not at present really required by British travellers on 
the Continent (except for visiting Russia, TuxVe^,^\k^cce^^^sv^ 



2 THE BLACK FOREST. 

Portugal), but at the same time a passport is frequently useful, 
in order to procure admission to certain Museums, to obtain 
letters from the P^^/^ 7?^j/««/i?, and to establish identity when- 
ever required. The cost of a passport is very trifling, and it may 
be obtained, if desired, through Messrs. Cook and Son. 

MONEY. 

Messrs. Cook and Son issue Circular Notes of the value of 
£l or ;^io sterling, which are accepted at all their Continental 
agencies, and by the principal hotel-keepers. The chief advan- 
tages are (i) that they can be cashed at the Hotels and Agencies 
of Messrs. Cook and Son after the Banks are closed ; (2) safety, 
as they cannot be cashed without the holder's endorsement; 
and (3) convenience of exchange at any hour in small sums of 
the currency of each country, at the full rates of exchange. 

English sovereigns are received almost everywhere, and 
may generally be exchanged without loss. Foreign currency is 
always puzzling, and it will be well for every tourist to fami- 
liarize himself with the following tables : — 

France, Belgium, Switzerland, and Italy. 

I franc (in Italy Lira) = about Q^d. 

5 franc piece ( „ 5 lire) = „ 4s. 
20 franc piece ( „ 20 lire) = „ i6s. 
10 centimes ( „ 10 centesime) = „ id. 

100 centimes = i franc ; 100 centesime = i lira. 

Italian paper currency is much depreciated in value. 

North Germany. 

I2pfenninge = i silbergroschen. 

2^ silbergroschen = 3d. 
10 silbergroschen = is. 
I mark = 100 pf. = is. 
30 silbergroschen = i thaler = 3s. 

6 thalers 20 silbergroschen = i English sovereign. 
20 mark piece (gold) = 1 English sovereign. 



MONEY— POSTAGE^FEES. o 

South Germany and Austria. 

£i = ii| South German florins = lo Austrian florins. 
1 6s. = 9 fl. 20 kreut. S. Germany = 8 „ „ 

I Austrian florin =100 kreutzers = 2s. 
10 kreut. pieces = yV florin. 
6 kt. ps. S. Ger. = 9 kt. Austria = about 2jd. 

if fl. S. Germany = i^ fl. Austria = 3s. 

I fl. „ = 85 kreut. = IS. 8d. 

30 kr. „ = 50 jj = lod. 

3 » » = 4 „ = id. 

The Austrian paper currency is much depreciated, the dis- 
count constantly varying. 

Holland. 
5 cents rr about id. 

100 „ = I florin or guilder - „ is. 7d. 

I gold ducat =^ „ 9s. 4d. 

I gold 10 florin piece = „ i6s. 6d. 

TIME-TABLES. 

The official time-tables of the railway and diligence com- 
panies should be consulted, as alterations are constantly taking 
place, and though such alterations are carefully watched, it is 
impossible for any general time-table published in this country 
to guarantee complete accuracy. " Cook's Continental Time- 
tables and Tourists' Handbook" is published at is.; post 
free, is. 2d. 

POSTAGE. 

By the recent postal arrangements, letters can be sent to 
France, Switzerland, Germany, Italy, etc., for 2jd. under the 
i ounce. Thirty centimes (3d.) for letters from those countries to 
England. 

FEES. 

The Black Forest is not at present overrun with great crowds 
of annual visitors, and the inhabitants havct ivovXi^^'^ «j^ci^^^^'2^'5» 
in Switzerland and other tourist lia\inls,\>^ \)cv^ \aN\^ ^vsxx^s^- 



4 THE BLACK FOREST. 

tion of fees. If each trareller would make it a rule never to 
give a fee except for some positive service rendered worth the 
sum giveUy he would confer a boon upon the people and upon 
future travellers. At present there is nothing like mendicity in 
the whole region of the Forest. Will the traveller endeavour to 
discourage its occurrence by never tolerating any attempt at 
begging in any form } 

TIME FOR VISITING THE BLACK FOREST. 

From the beginning of June to the end of September. For 
the Tourist who intends to confine his travels to well-beaten 
tracks, even May and October may be included ; but these 
months cannot be recommended. 

HOTELS 

in the Black Forest are good, and every comfort in the way 
of accommodation can be obtained. The fare is generally 
excellent. Messrs. Cook and . Son supply Hotel Coupons 
available at Hotels which can be well recommended. In the 
following pages reference is only made to Hotels where these 
Coupons are accepted. (Full particulars as to Hotels and Hotel 
arrangements by Coupons will be found in the Appendix. 

The advantages of taking Hotel Coupons may be briefly 
summed up as follows : — 

I. Time, expense, annoyanpe in bartering, and ultimate dis- 
satisfaction, are saved by going to a well-recommended Hotel. 

II. It is a great drawback to pleasure to arrive in a foreign 
town a perfect stranger, and without any definite idea where 
to go. 

III. Letters from home, or telegrams, may be found upon 
arrival at the Hotel, thus saving trouble or expense in sending 
for them to the Post Office. 

IV. The charges are all fixed, thus obviating the chance of 
imposition, and the disagreeable task of having to drive a bar- 
gain at each stopping-place. 

V. The charges being fixed at one uniform rate, and at the 
lowest siim to insure good accommodation, the Tourist is enabled 

to count the cost of his tour before startitv^. 



THE BLACK FOREST ASSOCIATION. ^ 

VI. Travellers with Coupons, bespeaking accommodation 
by letter or telegram, are always provided for, even in the 
busiest seasons, if they inform the Hotel-keeper that they have 
Coupons. 

VII. The special advantage of taking Cook's Coupons for 
Hotels in the Black Forest is, that the proprietors are willing to 
impart information to Tourists upon all matters of local in- 
terest, and, in the majority of instances, speak English (see 
p. 6). 

FACILITIES FOR TOURISTS IN THE 

BLACK FOREST. 

Access to the charming and interesting districts whose gene- 
ral features and history we propose to describe, is now cheap 
and easy. Fair accommodation at moderate charges can be 
obtained, even in the most remote places. The new Black 
Forest Railway (p. 71), from Offenburg by Singen to Schaff- 
hausen, lays open the central district of the Forest, and from 
the various stations, diligence routes, or romantic forest paths, 
conduct to all the principal places and chief points of interest. 
From several stations on the Baden and Basle, or Basle and 
Schaffhausen Railways, the Forest can be penetrated, as fully 
explained in other parts of this volume. 

At intervals of a few miles throughout the Forest, good com- 
fortable Hotels will be met with, at almost all of which private 
carriages may be obtained, or seats secured in the post dihgences, 
or luggage forwarded from point to point, for those who wish to 
make a pedestrian tour. Every river and lake in the Forest 
abounds with good fishing, for which the hotel proprietors have 
the right of giving permission. (Trout is exceptionally fine 
here.) 

During a visit to the Forest, the traveller will be constantly 
wondering how the splendid roads over which he is passing, and 
which can only be compared to private carriage- drives through 
an English nobleman's grounds, are kept up, and how the 
various objects of interest have been made accessible, appa- 
rently without anyone to direct or goveitv sucYv^rt^xvJ^^xcss^xs. . 'XNsfc. 
fact is, that a society called the Black. Tox^^ fcjww^^S^^^'^ 



6 THE BLACK FOREST. 

(p. 39) has been formed, having for its members all the landed 
or Forest proprietors, as well as the hotel and carriage pro- 
prietors, the objects of the Association being to see to the proper 
maintenance of the roads, to provide the necessary accommo- 
dation for Tourists, and to govern the charges for the same : 
also, wherever a point is discovered from which a fine view can 
be obtained, to erect a chilet, or take the necessary precautions 
for safety. In fact, the general objects of the Association are to 
do evCTything they can to facilitate the movements of Tourists 
through the Forest. 

To sum up, we may confidently assert that, with excellent 
hotels, good roads, pleasant lines of railway, cheap carriages? 
woods abounding with game, rivers full of fish, hills and valleys 
breathing health, and the scenery on every hand unrivalled in 
beauty, there are few places in the world more interesting for the 
traveller, pedestrian or otherwise, either for a passing visit or a 
prolonged stay, than the Schwarzwald, or Black Forest. 

LANGUAGE. 

Showing how it is possible for a Traveller not know- 
ing German, or any Language other than English, 
TO make the Tour of the Black Forest. 

A few years ago it would have been, if not impossible, at 
least exceedingly inconvenient, for a traveller not knowing the 
German language to have made the Tour ; and even now in 
some out-of-the-way places the same remark holds good. But, 
since the opening of the new railway, there has been a steadily 
increasing influx of English and American travellers, and those 
who cater for their accommodation have found it is imperative 
that provision must be made for their lack of German ; so that 
in many villages where nothing was ever heard but German, 
English is now being spoken. That is to say, at the Hotels, the 
proprietors, or members of their family, having a knowledge of 
EngUsh, devote themselves to the kindly task of making their 

• visitors at home, and posting them up in all requisite informa- 
tion as to routes, localities, etc . And when it happens that none 

of the family can speak English, then it is l\v^ ^o\\cn, ^sv^ vs. 



. LANGUAGE. 7 

becoming the habit^ which will soon be universal, of employing 
waiters and others who can act as interpreters. 

And here, lest the Tourist should fear it would fare ill with 
him if left to the tender mercies of hotel proprietors and head- 
waiters, it may be as well to state that such fears will be found 
to be without foundation. It is not in the Black Forest as it is 
in Switzerland, or on the Rhine, or in any of the crowded haunts 
of Tourists. In such places hotel proprietors have no time to 
devote to individual Tourists ; nor is it so necessary that they 
should, for there are always plenty at hand to undertake the 
task. But in the Black Forest the high pressure system is little 
known ; everything is more quiet and leisurely, and the style 
and habit of hotel life more nearly resembles that in quiet 
country places in England or Scotland. 

It cannot be denied that a Tourist who is deficient in the 
knowledge of languages, and is dependent upon others for his 
means of acquiring information, is a great loser ; at the same 
time, there is no reason why he should be a greater loser still 
by denying himself the privileges and pleasures of travel on that 
account. Every year there are hundreds of Tourists who travel 
in Norway, and it is probably no exaggeration to say that ninety 
per cent, are entirely ignorant of the Norsk language. The 
Black Forest Tour is, in many particulars, similar to touring in 
Norway. The people are simple, straightforward, and primitive 
in their habits. At easy distances there are halting-places ; the 
country is equally well adapted for driving or walking. In 
Norway the scenery is undoubtedly grander, but the acconmio- 
dation at the " stations" is very poor. In the Black Forest the 
scenery is more beautiful, or, rather, prettier^ than in Norway ; 
and it has this important practical advantage — the Hotels are 
good, the fare is excellent, and the accommodation all that can 
be desired. 

In planning a Tour in the Black Forest, let the Tourist 
arrange to make his stopping-places at Hotels where English or 
French is spoken ; and in order to assist him in this, we append 
a list * of Hotels at which Cook's Coupons are accepted, and 

* This list is incomplete, as there may now be other ^Va.^^'s* YCL>loR.^sa!3«^ 
Forest and environs where English and French, axe s^^«Ck.,\s3asci o\ 'Csv^ 



8 



THE BLACK FOREST. 



where he will be sure to receive courteous attention, and be able 
to pick up as much information as will enable him to get over 
the intermediate ground with satisfaction to himself. 



Albbriick 


Hotel Albthal 


English spoken 


Belchen 


High Mountain Station 
(Rasthaus Belchen) 


French 


J) 


Donaueschingen 


Hotel Schiitzen 


English 


» 


Furtwangen 


Angel Hotel 


English 


» 


Gernsbach 


Bath Hotel 


English 


99 


Hochenschwand 


Hotel Maier 


English 


5J 


Holsteig (HoUenthal) 


Star Hotel 


English 


97 


Homberg 


Hotel Baren 


English 


» 


Lenzkirch 


Hotel Poste 


French 


99 


Mulheim 


Hotel Kittler 


French 


J> 


Neustadt 


Hotel Poste 


English 


99 


Ottenhofen 


Hotel Pflug 


French 


J> 


Oberkirch 


Hotel Linde 


English 


» 


Schluchsee 


Hotel Star 


English 


J> 


Schopfheim 


Hotel Three Kings 


French 


J> 


St Georgen 


Hotel Hirsch 


French 


99 


St. Blasien 


Hotel St. Blasien 


English 


» 


Triberg 


Hotel Lowen 


French 


99 


Vohrenbach 


Hotel Kreuz 


English 


J> 


Villingen 


Hotel Blume 


French 


»> 


Waldkirch 


Hotel Poste 


English 


}> 


Waldshut 


Hotel Kiihner 


English 


» 


Wolfach 


Hotel Krone 


French 


» 



The " Tourist's Shilling Conversational Guide," in English, 
French, German, and Italian, by Dr. J. F. Loth (Cook and Son, 
Ludgate Circus, or their agents), will be found useful for learning 
a few indispensable phrases. 



proprietors having determined to secure interpreters for the present season ; 
but the foregoing instances have come under the personal notice of the 
Editor. He will be glad if Tourists who avail themselves of the hints here 
thrown out will kindly furnish him with the names of other Hotels where 
EnglJsb is spoken, in order that he may notify the same in future editions. 



HOW TO REACH IT. g 

PLAN OF WORK, 

The descriptions in the following pages have been arranged 
in the order given below, namely — 

I. The railway route from Baden to Basle, describing all the 
principal places of interest en route on the western side of the 
Forest, and notifying the best places for making excursions into 
the Black Forest. 

II. The railway route from Basle to Schaffhausen and Con- 
stance, notifying all principal places of interest, and showing all 
the principal entrances to the Forest from the south. 

III. The railway route through the heart of the Black Forest, 
by the new line of railway from Offenburg to Singen, pointing 
out all diligence routes and excursions in and about ihe neigh- 
bourhoods through which the Baden States Black Forest Railway 
passes. 

IV. A description of all the principal diligence routes in the 
Black Forest, many of which connect the different lines of 
railway, and enable the traveller to make a complete circuit of 
the Forest, or to select such portions only as time and inclina- 
tion may dictate. 

V. A description of all the principal pedestrian routes, 
showing how they may be best accomplished, and notifying the 
various stages at which they touch either railway or diligence 
routes. 

Although in the preparation of this work it has been the 
design of the author to keep these various divisions as distinct 
as possible, it has not been found possible to do so entirely. It 
is believed, however, that the arrangement of the work is such 
as to provide the most authentic and explicit information that 
has, up to the present time, been published in this country, and 
to render the Tourist the most practical and easily-to-be-under- 
stood directions. 

HOW TO REACH THE BLACK FOREST. 

From England. 

I. By way of the Rhine from Cologtvelo R^\'ij?Xcifex'^^'j>xv^ 
thence to Carlsruhe or Rastatt, eiiteim^ \)[i^ ^ ot^^X. "aX ^^aS^^- 



10 THE BLACK FOREST. 

Achem, or at Offenburg, and thence passing through the centre 
of the Forest by the new line of railway running by Horn- 
berg, Triberg, ViUingen, and Singen, to Schaffhausen. 

2. By way of the Rhine to Heidelberg, and thence to Frei- 
burg ; then, by diligence, carriage, or on foot, by the Hollenthal, 
Titi-See, Lenzkirch, St. Blasien, and the picturesque Albthal, to 
Albbriick, whence the rail can be taten to Basle, Schaff- 
hausen, etc. 

3. Same as No. 2, except that at Freiburg the route may be 
taken past the foot of the Feldberg to Todtnau, and thence to 
Schopfheim, and from Schopfheim to Basle, etc. 

4. By way of Paris, Epemay, Chalons, Nancy, and Strass- 
burg ; thence to Kehl and Offenburg. 

5. By way of Brussels and the Luxembourg route to Strass- 
burg, etc. 

From Switzerland. 

6. The entry to the Forest from Switzerland may be made 
from Constance by the new line of railway to Singen, Donau^- 
chingen, Villingen, Triberg, Offenburg, to Baden or Heidelberg 
en route for Rhine journey. 

7. From Albbriick by the Albthal to St. Blasien, Hollenthal 
and Freiburg, where the line for Rastatt and Carlsruhe may be 
joined. 

8. From Brennett for the delightful Wehrathal, Todtnau, and 
the Feldberg, for Freiburg. 

9. From Basle over the celebrated Belchen Mountain for 
Freiburg. 

These are only a few specimens ; many other ways of enter- 
ing the Forest, either en route to Switzerland from the Rhine, or 
to various points of the Continent from Switzerland, will readily 
suggest themselves to the Tourist who studies the map and the 
pages of the following work. 

DILIGENCE ROUTES IN THE BLACK FOREST. 

The following is a list of all the principal diligence routes 

in the Black Forest. • Messrs. Cook and Son issue their own 

tickets, and can so combine one Coupon wilVv axvotiv^x, i\\^t thfty 



DILIGENCE ROUTES. 



11 



will serve any route or series of routes which a traveller may 
select. 

The series of seventeen tickets numbered 331 to 347, provide 
for visiting almost every place of interest in the Forest, and are 
so arranged that the journey may be broken at any given spot, 
and resumed at the pleasure of the traveller, and any Coupon 
may be used in either direction. For example, series 331 is a 
ticket from Albbriick (p. 65) to Neustadt (p. 163) in Baden. It 
provides a Coupon from Albbriick to St. Blasien (p. 140), where 
the journey may be broken; another from St. Blasien to 
Schluchsee (p. 140); another from Schluchsee to Lenzkirch 
(p. 164) ; and the last Coupon from Lenzkirch to Neustadt. It 
will be desirable therefore that the intending Tourist should 
make himself fully acquainted with the various diligence routes 
indicated below, and by reference to the map at the commence- 
ment of the volume, he will see how easily, by availing himself 
of both lines of railway, and an occasional diligence journey, 
he may compass with ease, and at a trifling expense, all that is 
noteworthy in the Forest. 



SKRTES. 



331 



332 

333 
334 
335 
336 
337 



JOURNEY. 

Albbriick to Neustadt 

Triberg to Neustadt 

Altenweg to Schluchsee 
Altenweg to Bonndorf 
Birkendorf to Schluchsee 
Blumberg to Schaffhausen 
Bonndorf to Thiengen 



338 Donaueschingen to Freiburg 

339 Bonndorf to StUhlingen 

340 Blumberg to Stiihlingen 

341 Blumberg to Donaueschmgetv 



PROVIDING FOR BREAKS 
OF JOURNEY AT 

/ St. Blasien, 
I Schluchsee, 
( Lenzkirch. 
( Furtwangen. 
( Vohrenbach. 

Lenzkirch. 



Birkendorf. 

Loffingen, 

Neustadt, 

Altenweg, 

HoUsteig. 



1 2 THE BLACK FOREST. 

PROVIDING FOR BREAKS 
SERIES. JOURNEY. OF JOURNEY AT 

342 Freiburg to Schonau j Todmau.' 

343 Hausach to Schramberg j ^^^h. 

344 Hausach to Rippoldsau Wolfach. 

345 Schopfheim to Todtnau Zell, Schonau. 

346 Waldkirch to Furtwangen Altsimonswald. 

347 Unterkimach to Furtwangen Vohrenbach. 

In order to explain more fully how the diligence Coupons 
may be combined with railway journeys, according to any route 
that the traveller may select, it will be well to quote the follow- 
ing examples, which might be multiplied to any extent. 

A. — Basle to Albbriick, railway ; Albbriick to Neustadt and 
Freiburg, diligence ; Freiburg to Basle, railway. 

B. — Basle to Schopfheim, railway ; Schopfheim to Schonau, 
Todtnau, and Freiburg, diligence ; Freiburg to Basle, 
railway. 

C. — Basle to Schopfheim, railway ; Schopfheim to Schonau, 
' Todtnau, and Freiburg, diligence ; Freiburg to Offen- 
burg, Romberg, and Triberg, railway ; Triberg to Neu- 
stadt and Albbriick, diligence ; Albbriick to Basle, railway. 

D. — Basle to Albbriick, railway ; Albbriick to Neustadt and 
Freiburg, diligence; Freiburg to Offenburg, Hornberg, 
and Triberg, railway ; Triberg to Neustadt and Donaues- 
chingen, diligence ; Donaueschingen to Singen and 
Schaffhausen, railway. 

B. — Freiburg to Neustadt and Triberg, diligence ; Triberg to 
Donaueschingen, railway ; Donaueschingen to Neustadt 
and Albbriick, diligence ; Albbriick to Basle, railway. 



^ht Math yovtst 



The Black Forest — almost unknown to the great majority 
of tourists twenty years ago — is now becoming justly 
celebrated and increasingly popular, on account of its varied 
attractions, combined with readiness of access and excellence 
of accommodation. It is a quiet unsophisticated region, 
where people live to-day pretty much as they did 500 years 
ago 5 where beggars are happily unknown, and the fashion- 
able life of continental cities has found no settled home ; 
where Nature has been unusually lavish with her charms, 
and has spread abroad forests of pines, and glens and valleys 
of unrivalled beauty; where lakes sparkle amongst the 
mountain tops or in the plains, and waterfalls cast their 
rainbowed spray ; where rivers filled with splendid fish flow 
into the Danube or the Rhine, and where the tourist in 
search of the picturesque, or the family in search of healthy 
change of air, the botanist, geologist, artist, — all will find 
that which will charm and gratify their tastes. Nor does 
the Black Forest present a less fruitful field for the student 
of history or the literary man. Here were enacted scenes 
memorable in the troublous times of the Reformation ; here 
was played an important part in the sanguinary struggle, 
known as the Thirty Years* War -, and here may be read 
many dark chapters in sequel to the story of the French 
Revolution 5 while many of its lakes, and valleys, and moun.- 
tains are linked with legends, and poems, ^tv.^ toxtcKwy^^^NRj^ 



14 THE BLACK FOREST. 

less interesting than those pf the Rhine, though, perhaps, nt>t 
so well known. 

GENERAL FEATURES. 

The Black Forest, in German, Schwarzwald, is a well- 
wooded 'mountain range, in the south-west cf Germany. It 
extends from the south of the Grand Duchy of Baden, in a 
northtnorth-east direction to the left bank of the Neckar — 
lying.parallel to the river Rhine and the Vosges mountains^ 
Its length is about 85 miles, and its breadth varies from aboiit 
20' miles in the north to nearly 40 miles in the south. It 
covers an area of about 1290 square raiiles, which is almost 
equally divided between Baden and Wurtemberg. 

The highest summits of the Schwarzwald only doff their 
mantles of snow in June to resume them in September. In 
the wooded region, just below, are the immense pine forests, 
the sombre tint of whose foliage gives the district its name. 
The mountains are generally rounded, though some of the 
loftiest are peaked. Well-watered and populous valleys, 
mostly pastoral, but in some cases well-cultivated, intersect 
the whole district. The highest summits are in the south, 
the two most prominent being the Feldberg, between 
Todtnau and HoUenthal, and the Belchen, near the end of 
the Miinsterthal. The chain of hills running towards the 
Rhine by SchafFhausen, are called the Randengebirge. 
North-east of this is the romantic castle-studded district, of 
volcanic origin, known as the Hohgau. The Kaiserstuhl 
is another volcanic district, an isolated chain of hills, covering 
a considerable area to the north-west of Freiburg. 

Towards the north, the Schwarzwald gradually subsides 

into a broad plateau, with a few slight eminences. On the 

east there is a gradual slope towards the centre of Wurtem- 

berg-. On the west the descent is more abiu^it, vineyard and 



GENERAL FEATURES. I r 

orchard-covered slopes immediately succeeding to the wild 
and wooded heights. Both from the west and south, the 
interior of the Forest can be reached by charming valleys, the 
chief of which are the Murgthal> Hollenthal, Glotteirthal, 
Miinsterthal, Wiesenthal, Wehrathal, Albthal, etc. 

Numerous rivers rise in the Black Forest -, amongst them 
are the Danube and Neckar, with t^eir confluent streams -, 
also many tributaries of the Rhine, flowing by picturesque 
valleys, to that river. 

THE SCENERY OF THE BLACK FOREST, 

as we have already stated, is singularly vilried and beautiful. 
Of some portions of the Schwarzwald, tbe following extract 
from a recent writer gives a fair picture : — 

" The sombre and gloomy name of the district suggests 
a meaning which the scenery does not carry out, and I am 
bound to declare that the very legends of wooded Grermany 
— ^the romance of Undine, the story of Sintram and his com- 
panions-^ the very poems of the Black Forest— the White 
Fawn, the Nixie, and the like — all illustrated, as you know, 
on the walls of the Baden-Baden bath house, predispose the 
mind to a belief in grand desolation, rather than in smiling 
landscape. When I talk of happy valleys and comfortable 
farms, of peaceful villages and rushing waterfalls ; when I 
tell o^ the luxuriant hay crops, the plentifully-irrigated grass- 
land, the trout-streams, and the broad white roads, I am 
always met by the question, ^ But how can this be in the 
Black Forest ? ' The truth of the matter is that the Forest 
proper is always with us on the right hand and on the left j 
but it is not until we walk up one of the valleys, following 
the course of one of the trout-streams, mounting continually 
upward, and the forest trees closing around us, that 
we get deeper and deeper into \Aie %>aaAa, ^s\^ ^-a^ ^'s^ 



l6 THE BLACK FOREST. 

find the homes of the wood-cutters, whose business it is to 
cut the timber and send it hurrying down the rivers to the 
sea. The valleys proper of the Black Forest are pretty much 
like other valleys, with houses and homesteads on either side 
of the stream, with a village at every other turn of the road, 
with continual orchards and with perpetual water-meadows 
— save that the valley scenery is always fringed high on the 
hills over our heads with a deep belt of pinewood, which, 
from its intense darkness and deep colour, has suggested the 
name of Black Forest for the whole district." 

Another phase of the Black Forest scenery is thus de- 
scribed by William Howitt : — 

" Besides a very Swiss character which we immediately 
discerned in the houses, with their outside galleries and pro- 
jecting roofs, and the church towers, with their domes or 
short spires covered with bright zinc, or with coloured and 
burnished tiles, the novelty of the peculiar forest scenery was 
in itself a great delight. We were now surrounded by those 
dark woods of which we had heard so much, and whose 
noble limbs we had seen so often floating down the Neckar 
or the Rhine. Here now lay around, as in profoundest 
stillness, these forest tracts. Here, reared aloft on the hills, 
or shooting up from the deep glens below us, are those mag- 
nificent forest trees which we had so long desired to see. 
We were surprised to find that these were not as we ima- 
gined, like our Scotch fir, but all of the silver fir {Pinus 
Pinacea), a tree which, when it grows alone, stands aloft, 
gradually contracting its dimensions, like a tall Chinese 
pagoda, and hung with its large cones as this is with its 
bells. In these mountain woods it is somewhat different, 
but not the less striking. Its clear and regular stems rise in 
perfect cylinders to the height often of two hundred feet, 
and generally of more than one 5 hence an air of vigour and 



GEOLOGY. 1 7 

youthful majesty about them, which is very beautiful. These 
stems of a leaden or silvery colour, whence the name, are so 
perfectly round, so clear, and rise so high without any sen- 
sible diminution of their size, that they look rather like 
gigantic cylinders placed in the earth than ordinary trees 
which have gradually grown there. . . . They spring 
from the deepest glens, and still stretch their fine columns 
above you, and rear themselves in rivalry of the highest 
rocks." 

But the two extracts given do not by any means exhaust 
the varying aspects of the Black Forest scenery. In the 
Hollenthal (p. 134), Albthal (p. 143), Wehrathal (p. 162), 
and in some other valleys duly described in successive pages 
of this work, wild grandeur and picturesque beauty are 
delightfully mingled. Glaciers and snowy peaks may be 
absent, but, nevertheless, the valleys are far more diversified 
and romantic than is generally the case in Switzerland. 
Ruined castles and other edifices abound, more numerously 
in proportion to the size of the district than in Rhin^land 
itself, lending fresh interest to the varying JIandscape by their 
historic and legendary associations. 

GEOLOGY. 

The rocks of the Schwarzwald, especially in the south- 
west, are mostly granite and gneiss. Porphyry, of which 
some of the highest peaks are formed, overlies the granite 
to some extent. Towards the north and east, red sandstone 
forms the chief elevations. Silver, copper, lead, iron, 
cobalt, and other minerals, are found in the rocks of oldest 
formation. Several of these were formerly mined for, but 
at the present day the most important mineral ^tod\\Rl\syDL vs. 
iron. There aw numerous mineral spnn^s va. >iJaa '^'^O^w 



1 8 THE BLACK FOREST. 

Forest, around which water'mg-places have sprung up as at 
Baden weiler (p. ijj), Rippoldsau (p. 80), etc. 

AGRICULTURE 

is not much developed. Crops of summer rye, oats, and 
potatoes are raised in some parts with very doubtful success. 
Good ordinary wines are produced in some of the valleys. 
But most of the irrigated fairm-lands bordering the streams 
of the Black Forest are used as pastures for cattle, or as 
meadows from which rich crops of hay are gathered, and 
stored for winter consumption. 

THE PEOPLE 

of the Black Forest, numbering about 300,000, are, for the 
most part, a very primitive race, chiefly engaged in the rear- 
ing of cattle, in the felling and transport of timber, and in 
various occupations of a mechanical character. Their pecu- 
liar idioms, characteristic costumes, and unsophisticated 
manners, are striking features of the inhabitants. 

The timber traffic occupies a large number of persons. 
Trees cut down in the forests are floated down the mountain 
torrents to the rivers in the valleys. When the streams are 
too small to be thus utilized, dams {Schwellungen) are 
formed amongst the mountains (p. 118), and, by letting loose 
the waters at certain times, immense quantities of timber are 
forced down to the broader rivers below. Here rafts are 
formed (p. 83), and at certain depots are seen immense piles 
of trees brought down the smaller streams, and collected for 
transmission in rafts to the Rhine, and thence to Holland. 
These great piles are called Polterplatxe (p. 84). 

Nearly a million cubic fathoms of timber are annually 
exported from the Grand Dachy of Baden. Masts 150 feet 
in length are brought down in tVie raits abo\^ described. 



INDUSTRIES OF THE BLACK FOREST. ig 

The industrial products of the inhabitants of the 
Schwarzwald are widely diffused over Europe. Straw- 
plait is a very noticeable manufacture, and is taught in State- 
aided schools in various places. Wooden ornaments of 
various kinds, jewellery, organs, orchestrions, musical boxes, 
etc., are produced to a very large extent. The distillation of 
the renowned Kirchwasser is another important branch of 
industry. 

But of all the occupations of the people of the Black 
Forest, the most important is 

THE MANUFACTURE OF CLOCKS AND 

WATCHES. 

Triberg is, perhaps, at the present day, the chief seat of 
the clock-making industry. Its real home, however, is in 
the upper regions of the Forest, where a race of men with 
dark hair, dark brown eyes, and of a meditative disposition, 
show a great talent for mechanical work, the fairer neigh- 
bouring race showing more tendency to engage in agricul- 
tural pursuits. It has been surmised that the former are 
descendants of Kelts or Gauls, driven by victorious Teutons 
to seek refuge in the mountains. Carpentering, turning, and 
coopering, and the production of various articles in wood, 
were the earliest industries of the district 5 brush-making, 
glass-blowing, and working in pewter were subsequently 
introduced, and about the year 1667 clock-making was added. 
This industry was commenced in a small way in districts 
where it still flourishes, and the earliest results were obtained 
with the simplest tools — a pair of compasses, a small saw, 
some drills, and a knife. The wooden clocks thus produced 
became popular ; the demand for them rapidly increased, 
till, by about the middle of last century, this industry was 
pursued at all the places where it still flourvs\v^^« 



20 



THE BLACK FOREST. 



The construction of the primitive Black Forest clocks 
was very simple. The internal mechanism comprised only 
three wheels^ and the movements were regulated by means 
of leaden weights on a curved balance^ which acted as a 
pendulum. This arrangement was superseded by the ordi- 
nary pendulum about the year 1740. About this time 
striking 9locks made their appearance, going for twenty- 
four hours without winding up. With some of these was 
combined an arrangement for showing the day of the month. 
Eight-day clocks first made their appearance about the year 
1780. 

Up to the year 1830 the manufacture of Black Forest 
clocks is shown to have gone on with increasing prospe- 
rity. For some years after that date, there was a consider- 
able decline in this industry. In order to re-establish the 
trade, a clockmaker's school was established at Furtwangen 
in 1850. The special objects sought in this institution were 
to train young people to perfection of workmanship, and 
stimulate the manufacture of Sprivg clocks and watches. 
The good results of the school soon showed themselves, and 
in 1862 it was closed, as its task was considered to be accom- 
plished. 

Although the school is no longer needed, good work- 
manship is still stimulated by the Exhibitions held in several 
towns. One is held at Furtwangen (p. 150), another at 
Triberg (p. 90) 5 and similar industrial exhibitions are being 
arranged for at St. Georgen, Eisenbach, and other places. 

The manufacture of the better description of clocks has 
of late years been the prominent industry of the Black Forest, 
but there is still a considerable demand for the old-fashioned 
species. The wooden clocks of 150 years ago are still manu- 
factured, and are said frequently to prove superior to those 
o£ the modern kind. It is asserted that some of the old 



INDUSTRIAL LIFE. 21 

wooden clocks have withstood the changes of temperature, 
and the dust and wear and tear of a hundred years. 

It would of course be impossible in our limits to describe 
in detail all the various kinds of clocks produced in the 
Black Forest. The tourist of a horological turn of mind, 
desirous of making himself acquainted' with these matters, 
must visit the various industrial exhibitions and the large 
manufactories. 

The large demand for the Black Forest clocks has natu- 
rally led to considerable division of labour. The painted, 
polished, and carved cases, the works, weights, chains, 
springs, belts, etc., are now to a great extent the separate 
handiwork of artisans specially devoted to the production of 
those particular articles. The " Packer " is a merchant who 
buys up the separate parts from independent workmen, puts 
them together and disposes of them. 

The great demand and consequent division of labour 
above referred to, has led to the establishment of large fac- 
tories, where the various parts can be produced by the special 
workmen and then combined, and the finished clocks and 
watches turned out in vast numbers. 

One of the largest manufactories in the Black Forest is 
the Actiengesellchaft or Clock-making Company of Lenz- 
kirch (p. 164). Another large factory is that of Messrs. 
Fiirderer, Jagler and Co., of Neustadt. About a thousand 
hands are employed by these two firms 5 the workmen earn 
from I to 2i florins per day. 

But although factories have increased, the old Home 
industry is by no means abolished. It especially flourishes in 
Furtwangen and the surrounding district. Here the clock- 
maker lives and works in his one-storied house^ all tVsfc \ssa\fc 
members of the family working irom. e2cc\7 t£\otc^\.o e^^,^^ 
wife and children when not engaged mYvovx^i^OAY^'t^'^'^'^' 



22 THE BLACK FOREST. 

either helping in the clockmaking or plaiting straw. On 
the way to church on Sunday, the work is taken to the 
clock-dealer at the *' Kratze " to be disposed of. The tourist 
will be gratified by observing that these working families gene- 
rally possess a cow, and a meadow, and a plot of cultivated 
ground on which to grow some of the necessaries of life. 

The clock country of the Black Forest comprises 92 
parishes, chiefly in the neighbourhood of Triberg, Villingen, 
Neustadt, Waldkirch and Freiburg. There are 1429 self- 
supporting clockmakers and owners of manufactories employ- 
ing 5726 workmen. Altogether about 13,500 people earn 
their living by watch and clockmaking. From 1797 to 1873, 
the value of the clocks and watches manufactured in the 
district was about twelve million guldens. These articles 
are exported to all parts of the world. But in England the 
former demand for Black Forest clocks (commonly known 
as Dutch clocks) has been greatly interfered with by the 
introduction of American clocks. 

HISTORY. 

The Black Forest was known to the Romans in the 
northern part as Marciana Silva, and in the southern portion 
as Mons Abnoba. The latter is also spoken of by Julius 
Caesar as the Helvetiorum Eremus, or desert of the Hel- 
vetii. Both the Silva Marciana and Mons Abnoba were 
included in the great Hercynian Forest (Hercynia Sylva) sur- 
rounding the sources of the Danube, and comprising the 
present Thuringia and the Harz Mountains. It was the 
Hercynia Sylva, computed by Caesar as sixty days* journey in 
length, and nine days' journey in .breadth, that so Ictng served 
as the outer defence of Teutonic independence against the 
incursions of Romey till, in the reign of Augustus, Drusus 
erected forts along the borders oi tVie ^\im^, ^xi^\^^^ ci^^o. 



HISTORY. 23 

this vast forest district, till then inaccessible, and almost 
unknown. Some attempts were subsequently made by the 
Romans to establish forts and make roads in the Hercynian 
Forest. Remains of their watch-towers and forts, etc., are 
occasionally alluded to in the following pages. These re- 
mains are most conspicuous in the neighbourhood of HiifiD- 
gen (p. 164), Kirnach (p. 93), Rottweil (p. 93), and Has- 
lach (p. 76). 

But however much or however little of Roman prowess 
and civilization penetrated the Black Forest, it all disappeared 
when the great northern hives swarmed, devastated the fair 
south, and took their turn at founding kingdoms and empires. 
For several centuries the Black Forest has no history. Eth- 
nologists assert that there are physical and mental differences 
between the inhabitants of the mountains and valleys in 
some parts, evidencing a struggle between two races, one of 
Celtic and the other of Teutonic origin. But of such a 
struggle, though probable enough, no record remains. 

The next to appear upon the scene are the monks. 
Christianity was introduced into the Black Forest in the 
nth century, when the church at Peterzell (p. 92) was built 
by the monks of Reichenau (p. 113), and the Benedictine 
Abbey at St. Georgen subsequently founded. The first roads 
of communication seem to have been opened up at this time. 
Later on we hear of Abbots of Hirschau, Bishops of S trass- 
burg. Lords of Falkenstein, and other notable persons, 
coming up to recruit their health and strength on trout and 
venison, and breathe the bracing mountain air. But com- 
munication remained very defective till about the 15th cen- 
tury. Old historians relate that it used to take the Bishop of 
Strassburg four or five days to reach St. (reorgen on a visit 
to his learned friend the Abbot. He might do it now in as 
many hours. 



24 THE BLACK FOREST. 

The mediaeval appellation of the Black Forest was Nigra 
Silva. 

In the I jth century the inhabitants of this district suf- 
fered much, in common with their neighbours the Swiss, 
when the German emperors were consolidating their power, 
and subjugating the semi-independent inhabitants of their 
borders. But no Tell or Arnold appeared, and in the i6th 
century the Black Forest was an integral portion of Suabia 
or Alemannia (whence the French name for G^ermany, 
Allimiagne), one of the five great circles into which Maxi- 
milian divided his empire. 

In the wars following the Reformation, in the Thu^y 
Years* War, and in the war with Gustavus Adolphus^ the 
people of the Schwarzwald had a full share of the general 
troubles. 

In the 1 7th century hostile appearances of the French 
in Suabia were so frequent, that, in 1693, Louis of Baden 
farmed a system of entrenchment, from the crests of the 
Montagues Noires, to Rheinfelden, near Pforzheim. In the 
1 8th century some of the Schwarzwald roads, especially the 
Hollenthal (p. 134) and the Kniebis (p. 133), became the 
scenes of marching and counter-marching in the revolu- 
tionary struggles with which that century came to a close. 



(Hotel de Hollaride, near the Kursaal, Promenade, 
and Theatre, commanding one of the most charming 
views in Baden). 

Baden (Fr. Bade), commonly called Baden-Baden, to 
distinguish it from other towns of the same name, is situated 
in a lovely and salubrious valley between two offshoots 
from the mountains of the Black Forest. Through this 
charming valley winds the Oos, or Oel-Bach, to join the Murg 
near Rastatt, and flow on to the Rhine. The Oos was once 
the boundary between the Franks and the Alemanni. Along 
the banks of this stream are bright green meadows j then 
on the lower slopes cornfields and vineyards abound -, above 
these are the forests of dark pines, whilst the higher summits 
of the hills are clad with brushwood only. In every direc- 
tion paths will be found, leading through picturesque and 
varied scenery of valley and hill and forest, affording oppor- 
tunity for walks and drives innumerable. 

The site of the town of Baden has been compared to 
that of Richmond-on-Thames. It is built on sloping 
ground, and, looking down the opening valley, the Rhine is 
seen with the Vosges mountains beyond. Over 10,000 
inhabitants reside here permanently (mostly Roman Catho- 
lic), and every year some 50,000 visitors frequent the place. 
For the latter, every accommodation is provided. Hotels, 
inns,- lodging-houses, and cafes abound. Promenades, 
saloons, concerts, balls, and other attractions are provided. 
The affluent may live here in pr\tvce\y s\.y\&^^\^^%\."a^^.*^Dkfc 



26 THE BLACK FOREST. 

same time it is possible to enjoy the pleasures of Baden- 
Baden, and explore its delightful environs, at a moderate 
cost. 

The special season of Baden is during July and August, 
but in fine summers it may be said to last from May ist 
to October 3ist^ and indeed at no period of the year is the 
town without numerous visitors. 

History. 

It seems that the River Oos preserves the name of the 
Oser, a Keltic tribe mentioned by Tacitus. The district 
was partially subjugated by Drusus Germanicus, and brought 
into complete subjection by Trajan. A Roman colony was 
founded, called Civitas Aquensis — the hot springs being, even 
then, celebrated. Caracal la gave the town the freedom of 
Rome, and in his honour, the place became Civitas Aurelia 
Aquensis, Since the breaking up of the Roman Empire, 
Franks and Alemanni, or, in more modem times, French 
and Germans, have often made sad havoc in this charming 
district. But notwithstanding various vicissitudes, Baden 
has flourished. Monks of Weissenburg, Dukes of Suabia, 
Counts of Zahringen, and Henry the Lion, successively owned 
the town, and then Frederick Barbarossa gave it to the 
Margrave Hermann HI. For six hundred years the Mar- 
graves dwelt here, first at the Old and then at the New 
Castle, till the latter was burnt down by the French in 
1689. The seat of the Margravate was then fixed at 

Rastatt. 

Conversationsliaus- 

The accommodation and special attractions for visitors 
are mostly on the left bank of the Oosbach. At the Con- 
versationsliaus (built in 1824 by Weinhrenner) are 
znagnJGcent rooms for dining, music, and dsitvcvcv^. 



BADEN-BADEN. 27 

The principal saloon is 157 feet in length by 52 feet 
in breadth. The restaurant is in the right wing. In the 
left wing are some highly decorated rooms of more recent 
erection than the main building. One of these is a ball and 
concert room, in the style of the Renaissance. The columns, 
lights held by graceful figures, flower vases, lustres, and a 
profusion of white and gold ornamentation, are all in har- 
mony with the work of the first masters of the Renaissance 
school. Cupids, genii, and other allegorical figures and 
armorial bearings, are richly painted on the ceiling. Another 
salooji is entirely in the Louis XIV. style — ceiling, panels, 
furniture, tapestry, pictures, and sculpture, all in keep- 
ing. '^ It is in fact," says a French writer, " a repetition of 
one of the fine saloons of the Versailles Palace designed 
in the time of the Grand MonarqueP Connected with this 
saloon are a conservatory (beautifully adorned in Louis XIV. 
style, and with a fine profusion of rare plants and flowers, 
sculpture, and fountains) and a boudoir in the Pompadour 
style, a charming and luxurious room. These four rooms 
were ornamented by Sechan. 

The Marx Library and Reading- Room adjoin the left 
wing. 

Information as to terms and dates of the reunion balls 
and soirees musicales can of course be best obtained by 
local inquiry. 

East of the Conversationshaus is an avenue with shops in 
triple row, forming a bazaar and promenade. Here *' every- 
body that is anybody," walks from 3.0 to 4.0 p.m. In the 
evening, open-air concerts are given here. 

Trinklialle. 

The Trinklialle, built in 1841, \s «i\. ^^^t\.^\^\!«^r.^. 
The contiguous colonnade, 295 ieet \ou^> Vj ?>T \ftfc\. Xs^^'^^* 



28 THE BLACK FOREST. 

contains the following frescoes by Gotzenherger, illustrating 
legends of the Black Forest : — 

1. The Image of Keller (p. 33). 

2. The Mummelsee (p. 127). 

3. The Wildsee (p. 82). 

4. The Teufels Kanzel (p. 116). 

5. The Count's Leap. 

6. The Old Castle of Eberstein (p. ^^), 

7. The Convent of Fremersberg (p. 34). 

8. The Neu Windeck (p. 3^)' 

9. The Baldreit. ,. . 

10. The Felsen (p. 32). 

11. The Castle of Windeck (p. 34). 

12. Allerheiligen (p. 129). 

13. Hohenbaden (p. 32). 
J 4. Lichthenthal (p. 33). 

The piece of sculpture over the chief entrance is — 

The Nymph of the Spring . . Reich von Rufingen. 

The pictures over the doors are — 

(East.) Subjugation of the Germans by the Romans. 

Roman Occupation of Baden. 

Expulsion of Romans from Baden. 

(North.) Entry of Margrave Lewis into Rastatt. 

Plan of Carlsruhe. 

The Trinkhalle itself is a large, frescoed room, 55 feet 

square, in the centre of which the water brought in pipes from 

the Ursprung (see p. 29) flows from taps in a marble column. 

The ascent behind the Trinkhalle, known as the Frie- 

senberg, is laid out as a garden, and affords some fine 

prospects. 

The Hot Springs. 

The thirteen hot springs which are the chief source of 
Baden 's increasing prosperity are touud m Vba ^axt o^ >^^ 



BADEN-BADEN. 20 

town locally known as ^*Hell," near the handsome new 
Batll House, built on the site of the old Trinkhalle. Of 
varying temperature, from 115° to 153® Fahrenheit, and 
abundant in supply, they well forth from the rocks of the 
Schntfckengarten, and are transmitted to the different bath- 
ing-houses. Chloride of sodium, sulphate of lime, bicar- 
bonate of lime, chlorate of potash and silica, enter into the 
composition of these waters, which can be applied either 
externally or internally, and are efficacious for rheumatism, 
gout, neuralgia, and other bodily ailments. 

The chief spring is the Ursprung, known to the Ro- 
mans, as the solid masonry enclosing the spring testifies. 
Remains of Roman baths were found in building the ad- 
joining vapour baths in 1847. '^^® Bruclibrunnen, or 
Scalding Well, near at hand, is another of these hot springs j 
it is much utilized for dipping poultry in to denude them of 
their feathers preparatory to cooking them. The Hollen- 
quelle, or Infernal Well, the Jew's Spring and the Fett- 
quelle are other springs in the vicinity. 

Theatre, etc- 

The Baden Theatre is a splendidly furnished building, 
by the Con versa tionshaus. French and Italian companies 
perform here during the season. The stage is occupied by 
actors and actresses from the Carlsruhe Theatre during other 
portions of the year. Near the theatre an exhibition of 
pictures will be found in the Kunsthalle. (Entrance fee 
18 kr., including a chance in the picture lottery.) 

Churches and Cemeteries. 

The Pfarrkirche, or Stiftskirche, endowed by Mar- 
grave Bernhard in 1453 > in fulfilment of a vow, is an in- 
teresting building. It is said that the original edifice dated 



OQ THE BLACK FOREST. 

from the 7th century. It was destroyed by the French in 
1680, rebuilt in 1753, and repaired at a recent date. There 
are some good stained glass windows, one presented by 
Queen Augusta of Prussia (now Empress of Germany), in 
memory of her husband's escape from attempted assassination 
in 1861. 

The following Monuments of Margraves, etc., are in 
the choir : — 

Philip (d. I j88). With statue. 

George ( 1 7 7 1 ) . With bust. 

Philip (d. 1 553). Recumbent statue on Sarcophagus. 

Lewis William (d. 1707). Monument by Pigalle. 

Margrave Lewis William, never defeated in twenty-six 
campaigns, was the first general of his age. He fought 
against the'.Turks with Prince Eugene. 

Maria Victoria Paulina (d. 1793). 
This lady was the widow of the last of the Margraves. 

Margrave Philibert (d. 1529) and wife. 

On the opposite side of the church to the foregoing 
are — 

Jacob IL (d. 15 11), Elector of Treves. A Pietlt. 

Christopher (d. 1527). 

Ottilie (d. 1468), wife of Christopher I. 

Leopold William (d. 167 1). Sarcophagus supported by 
Turks. 

Frederick (d. 15 17), Bishop of Utrecht. A Bronze 
Knight. 

Bernhard (d. 1536). A statue. 

The fine new Protestant Ghurcli and the English 
Churcll are near the Leopold's Platz, where the bronze 
Statue of tlie Grand Duke Leopold, by Xavier 
Reichy 1 86 1, is so conspicuous an object. The sumptuous 
Greek Chapel is on the Michaelsberg. Gold and mar- 



BADEN-BADEN. 3 1 

ble and painting have been lavishly employed to decorate the 

interior. Portraits of the Stourdza family (of Roumania), 

by Perignon, adorn the vestibule. The chapel was built as 

a tomb for a young prince of that family, Michael Stourdza, 

who died at Baden (aged 17) in 1863. 

Baden possesses two Cemeteries. The new cemetery 

south-east of the town has some fine monuments. The old 

cemetery is near the Gernsbacher Thor. Over the entrance 

is the head of our Saviour, in relief, executed in 1482. A 

curious representation of the Mount of Olives, with a stone 

cross and image of our Saviour (1462), and the loftily 

perched statue of a gravedigger will attract notice. Some 

well-known names will be found amongst the inscriptions 

on the tombs. 

The Neue ScMoss. 

The Neue ScMoss is situated on an eminence to the 
north of the town. It was first built by Margrave Chris- 
topher, above some Roman ruins, when he abandoned the 
old castle in 1479. In 1689 it was almost destroyed by the 
French, but was subsequently partially rebuilt. Some good 
pictures and other objects of interest are to be seen in the 
building, which is now handsomely fitted up as a summer 
residence for the Grand Duke. Beneath the edifice are a 
series of vaults with massive doors of stone or iron, once 
dungeons and torture chambers. It is believed that one 
of the Tribunals of the Holy Vehm exercised its functions 
and carried out its sentences in these gloomy vaults. The 
Koly Vehm, or Bloody League, originated in Westphalia, 
and spread through all Germany, till it is said that in the 
ijth century 100,000 of its tribunals existed. By some, 
these subterranean chambers are considered to have been 
originally Roman baths, and places of refuge from the at- 
tacks of surrounding barbarians. 



2z THE BLACK FOREST. 

ENVIRONS OF BADEN. 

Geologists will observe that in the whole district round 
Baden the rocks are chiefly of the old red sandstone. 
Three varieties of granite and pophyry are also met with. 
Evidences of great natural changes since the formation of 
these older rocks present themselves. Fossils of the eocene 
are frequent in some localities. The valley consists chiefly 
of alluvial deposits. It is considered probable that the bed 
of the river Rhine once extended from the Vosges moun- 
tains to the Black Forest. 

The wild flora of tlie district is very poor -, but, under 
the fostering care of art, exotic trees and shrubs abound in 
the park -like vicinity of Baden. 

The paths are mostly well supplied with sign-pasts ; 
when this is not the case the paths are generally for the use 
of woodmen or miners, lead nowhere in particular, and often 
terminate suddenly in the forest. 

The Alte Schloss Hohenbaden (1610 feet) was 
built in the 12th century by Hermann II., and improved by 
various Margraves, who dwelt there until the building of 
the New Castle, in 1479. ^^ ^^^ been in ruins since the 
French invasion in 16S9, but the tower has been made safe 
and accessible. The view from the siunmit is very beautiful j 
** the town far below you 5 the conical hills rising round it 
covered with their pine woods ; the vast plain, with smoking 
villages ; the dark hills of the Black Forest in one direction, 
those of the Odenwald in another, the Vosges on the French 
frontier in a third*' (Howitt), all combine to make up a 
beautiful picture. 

The remarkable porphyry rocks known as the Felsen, 
and connected by bridges of wood, are at the summit of the 
Batter; the best point of view is the Felsenbrucke. 



ENVIRONS OF SADEN-BADEN. o^ 

The castle of Alt Elberstein, by the village of Eber- 
steinbnrg, was originallj a Roman watch-tower, and after- 
wards a feudal castle. But in 1337 its owner^ Count Wolf, 
was at war with Eberhard the Weeper- The latter destroyed 
his adversary's castle, and for six centuries it has been a ruin. 
In 1660 the Eberstein family died out^ and these ruins^ as 
well as the Neue Schloss, near Gremsbach^ and the family 
estates, came into the possession of the Margraves of Baden. 

Alt Eberstein was a place of considerable strength and 
importance in ancient days. Tradition says that Otho I., 
longing to reduce it, invited Count Eberstein to a tournament 
at Speyer, intending to attack the castle in its owner's 
absence. But the Emperor's daughter fell in love with the 
Count and revealed the plot. He hastened home and saved 
his castle. The Count and the Imperial Princess were sub« 
sequently married, and it is to be supposed lived happily 
ever after. 

From Alt Eberstein, Baden can be reached in two hours 
by the Kellerbild (Image of Keller), which commemor- 
ates the fate of a gentleman who, as the legend goes, after 
thrice meeting a phantom woman at this spot, threw himself 
into her arms and perished. 

The Mercuriusberg (2205 feet) affords a fine pano- 
rama of Baden, Strassburg, Heidelberg, the Murgthal, etc. 
A tower ascended by 138 steps crowns the summit. Notice 
the copy of the votive tablet to Mercury now preserved at 
Carlsruhe, which was found here, and from which the emi- 
nence derives its name. 

The Convent of Lichtentlial is approached by the 
avenue near the Conversationshaus. It was founded by 
Irmengard, widow of Margrave Hermaim IV. The skele- 
tons of St. Pius and St. Benedictus, gay with ornaments, are 
exhibited here, and there are some vntei^^Vva.^ ^v^srKiSk -asy^ 



^4 THE BLACK FOREST. 

ornaments, especially in the Todtencapelle, or mortuary 
chapel, dating from the 13th century. An Orphan Asylum, 
founded by Stulz, the celebrated tailor, is attached to the 
convent, which is occupied by some strictly secluded Cis- 
tercian nuns. 

The walks and drives round Baden are very numerous, 
any public path will lead to scenes of varied beauty or 
interest. Amongst the surrounding spots not yet mentioned, 
the following are the most important. The Cacilien- 
berg ; the Seelacll ; the pretty valley, village, and water- 
fall of Geroldsau; the Sauersberg; the Birken- 
kopf ; the Gunzenbacbtlial; the fine massive ruins of 
Yburg (1873 feet), of Roman origin, with fine prospect 5 
the wooded Fremersberg (1807 feet), site of the old 
convent pictured in the Baden Trinkhalle^ the plea- 
sant timber-trading town of Gernsbacla (see p. 116), on 
the Murg; Schloss Eberstein (see p. 116), in the 
Murgthal, with glorious views, also some i6th century pic- 
tures, and ancient curiosities; the Favorite (six miles from 
Baden), where the lovely and gifted Margravine Sibylla, 
widow of Margrave Lewis William, finished her career in 
religious exercises and penance. 

BADEN TO FREIBURG. 

A branch line (three miles) conducts to the junction 
with the main line at Oos, Fine views of the Black Forest 
mountains. Sinzheim. Steinbach. is the birthplace of 
Erwin, the architect of Strassburg Cathedral 5 a monument 
to his memory is seen on a hill to the left. Before this 
statue the Freemasons of the Grand Duchy of Baden annually 
assemble. In this locality the superior red wine known as 
Affenthaler is produced. 

Buhl is a flourishing little manufacturing town. The 



BADEN TO FREIBURG. 35 

church is the oldest in this part of the Duchy. A pleasant 
excursion can be made to the ruins of Alt-Windeck on 
the hill. 

Biihl to Herrenwiese and the Murgthal by the beautiful 
Biihlerthal (p. 126). 

Ottersweier, near the mouth of the Neusatzerthal, 
along which flows the Ambach. Excursion by the valley of 
the Hub to the warm springs of the popular Hubbad, and 
then on to Alt-Windeck. 

Aclieril (pop. 2700), with monument to the Grand 
Duke Leopold, by Friedrich, of Strassburg, in the market- 
place 3 and fine Lunatic Asylum of Illenau (1843) in 
the neighbourhood. Sasbacb. (pop. 1200) is iJ miles 
from Achern 5 here a granite obelisk (26 feet high) marks 
the spot where Marshal Turenne was shot whilst recon- 
noitring the enemy, July 27, 1675. It was erected July 
27, 1826, and is inscribed '* France to Turenne." A smaller 
monument marks the actual spot where he fell, and the 
fatal bullet is exhibited in a neighbouring house. The salt 
springs of the Erlenbad are near Sasbach, also the castle of 
Lauf, cr Neu Windeck, and the ruins of the Brigitten- 
schloss, with fine prospects. 

Many beautiful excursions can be made from Achern. 
By the Kappelerthal, passing Ober Achern, Kappel and Otten- 
hofen to Allerheiligen (p. 129). By the Hornisgrinde, 
Mummelsee (p. 127) ; and Seebach to Allerheiligen (p. 
126). 

Continuing the railway journey, and crossing the river 
Rench (which comes down the Rench Thai from the 
Kniebis) the station at Renchen is next reached. The 
town (pop. 2600) was once an important place. Soon after ^ 
. passing Renchen, the spire of Strassburg Cathedral comes 
into view. 



^6 THE BLACK FOREST. 

From Renchen there is a cross road to Oberkirch on the 
route from Appenweier to Oppenau, etc. 

At Appenweier Station, the railway to Strassburg, by 
Kehl, leaves the main line. Diligence route through the 
Renchthal, by Oberkirch and Oppenau to the Baths of the 
Black Forest, etc. (pp. 80, 132), and Freudenstadt (p. 82). 

Proceeding from Appenweier by rail, the Durbach is 
crossed near Windschlag. The grand-ducal castle of Stau- 
fenberg (nth century) is seen on the left 5 founded by a 
Bishop of Strassburg in the nth century. Zell and Wein- 
garten, both of wine-producing fame, are passed on the left, 
and the Castle of Bilenstein. 

« 

Oflfenburg (p. 73). 

Oflfenburg (Black Forest Railway) to Singen 

(P- 73). 

Leaving Offenburg the main line crosses the Kinzig, 

and passes Schloss Ortenberg, a modem Gothic erection, 
built in 1834 by a Russian nobleman, from designs by 
Eisenlohr, at a cost of ;^3 0,000. It occupies the site of 
an ancient fortress destroyed by Marshal Crequi in 1668. 
The Kinzig is crossed on a bridge of trellis- work, 130 yards 
in length, and Nieder-Sch&pfheim, with its glass works, is 
passed, and then Friesenheim. Schuttern is left on the right. 
Dinglingen is a small town on the high road from Strass- 
burg to Basle. Here the Schutter issuing from the Schut- 
terthal is crossed. Up this valley there is a branch line, i^ 
miles, to the prosperous manufacturing and commercial 
town of Lahr. (Pop. 7563.) There are some tombs in 
the old church, and an ancient tower founded on ruins of 
Roman origin. From Lahr there is a good view of the 
Schutterlindenburg, with the National Monument comme- 
morating the Constitution of Baden. Atv. Interesting excur- 



BADEN TO FREIBURG. ^7 

sion can be made to the extensive ruins of the Castle of 
Hohengeroldseck (see p. *j^) destroyed in 1697, by 
Marshal Cr^qui. The Schutterthal, Kinzigthal, and plain 
of the Rhine are well seen from these ruins. On an oppo- 
site height are the ruins of the Liitzelhard. 

From Dinglingen there is a route to Ettenheim by the 
Schutterthal, joining the Ettenheim and Stein ach route not 
far from Streitberg. 

Kippentieiin has a monument to the successful tailor 
StuJz (afterwards Baron Ortenberg), who was a native of this 
town. 

On the left of the line is Mahlberg, founded by Conrad 
III. in the J2th century. It was anciently the seat of the 
Baden Government. Above it, on the height, is the old 
castle of the same name. 

Orschweier station is near Ettenheim, at the entrance 
to the Miinster Thai. Ettenheim (pop. 2731) is the place 
where the young Due d'Enghien was seized by Napoleon's 
emissaries on March 14th, 1804, to be shot in the castle 
ditch at Vincennes, within six days afterwards. Herr von 
Tiirckheim's elegant chateau of Altdorf is near Ettenheim. 

Ettenheim by the Miinster Thai to Steinach (see p. 76). 

Herbolzheim station is next reached, and the Bleiche 
crossed and then Kenzingen, The Elz is twice crossed ; 
Hecklingen, with ruins of Lichtenegg is passed, and then 
Riegel is reached at the junction of the Dreisam and Elz. 
Till the formation of the Leopold's Canal, this district was 
little more than a swamp. 

THE KAISERSTUHL. 

From Riegel, an excursion can be made to the Kaiser- 
Stuhl, seen on the right of the railway. This is an isolated 
mountain of volcanic origin between iVve ^Av\wa -axA^ "^^c^fc 



-^8 THE BLACK FOREST. 

Black ForivMt. There arc about 40 peaks, and on the vine- 
yard-covered slopes there are three towns, twenty villages, 
and .34,000 inhabitants. It is 1877 ^^^^ ^^ height, and occu- 
pies about forty-two scjuare miles. It derives its name from 
the fact tliat the Kmperor, Rudolph of Habsburg, used, 
when Imnting, to rest on the plateau called the Todten- 
kopf. An omnibus runs frequently during the day from 
Kit'gcl to Kndigen, from which the ascent to the Chapel 
of St. C/atherine, is elfected in ij hours. Here, at the 
height of 1620 feet, there is a splendid view of the Black 
Forest, the Vosges, and the valley of the Rhine, as far as 
Strassburg. The excursion may be continued to Vogtburg 
for the Neun Linden. This is the highest peak in the 
district. 

If after inspecting the Kaiserstuhl, the tourist prefers 
to go on to Freiburg without returning to Riegel, either 
Jhrigcn or Gotten heim on the Alt-Breisach branch railway 
(see p. 5.3) are within easy distance. 

Proceeding by the main line towards Freiburg, the Bel- 
chen (p. 157), the Blauen (p. i J7), and other lofty peaks of 
the Black Forest become visible soon after leaving RiegeL 
Malterdingen is passed, and then Koudringen, with the ruins 
of Landeck Castle, and Mundigen, where PfefFel (German 
poet) was born. 

Emmendigen (pop. 3000) has a churchyard in which 
Cornelia, the sister of the poet Goethe, lies buried. The astro* 
nomer Kepler and Professor Schopflin commenced their 
studies in the local school. There is a Rathhaus, with a 
statue of the Margrave James III. in front, and in the 
market-place is a statue of the Margrave Charles II. The 
ruins of Hochburg (which, after Heidelberg, are the most 
extensive in Germany) are on a hill near the town (twa 



FREIBURG. OQ 

hours' excursion). This fortress owes its spoliation to Louis 
XIV., in 1689. 

From Emmendigen conveyances run to Waldkirch (see 
p. 152). 

Crossing the Elz again, Denzlingen with its curious 
old church is next reached. 

From Denzlingen, carriages run to Elzach by the Elz 
valley in about 2^ hours. 

Between Denzlingen and Freiburg, the scenery, especially 
on the left of the line, is exceedingly pretty. There is a 
beautiful prospect of Waldkirch (p. 152) and the valley of 
the Elz (p. 151). Leaving the Glotterthal on the left, and 
Gundelfingen on the right, Zahringen is passed. Above the 
town on a spur of the Rosskopf, are the ruins of the castle 
of the same name. This was once the home of the power- 
ful counts, who long ruled a wide territory as vicegerents 
of the Emperors. It dates from the nth century, and was 
destroyed in the Thirty Years' War. 

FREIBURG. 

Hotel, Trescher zum Pfau. A good old-fashioned 
hotel, near the Railway Station, and within a short 
distance of the principal sights. Excellent baths and 
every comfort may be obtained. The Proprietor, Mr. 
Trescher, is Secretary to the Black Forest Association, 
and acts as the representative of Messrs. T. Cook and 
Son in the Black Forest District. He speaks English 
fluently, and is a most obliging and agreeable host. 

Post Office in the Kaiserstrasse, a little to the north of 
the Gothic fountain. 

Telegraph Office at the Station . 

Reading Room at the Museum. (A Member's introduc- 
tion required.) 



^0 THE BLACK FOREST. 

Swimming Bath at the foot of the Lorettoberg (12 kr.) 
English Church Service in a room near the Post Office 

(P- 47)- 
A Band plays every Sunday in the Karl Platz. 

Freiburg-im-Breisgau (pop. 24,559, of whom 
about 3000 are Protestants) is beautifully situated at an 
altitude of 918 feet above the sea level, on a fertile plain 
surrounded by picturesque hill and mountain scenery. It is 
an old town, once the capital of the mountainous and woody 
district of the Breisgau, and is now the chief town of the 
Upper Rhine ; its Archbishop exercises spiritual sway over 
the Hohenzollem principalities as well as over the Grand 
Duchy of Baden. 

Freiburg is becoming increasingly popular as a winter 
residence. The climate is dry and healthy j living and 
education cheap , and the neighbourhood afibrds good fish- 
ing and shooting. There are some local wines of good 
repute. On market days there is a capital opportunity 
for studying the peculiar costumes of the Black Forest 
peasantry. 

HISTORY. 

Bertbold,Dake of Zahringen, founded Freiburg in iii8j 
previously it had been a mere village inhabited by miners. 
Berthold*s descendants retained it in their possession till 
they became extinct in 12 18. The town then passed by 
order of the Emperor into the hands of the Counts of Urach, 
who were allied by marriage with the house of Zahringen. 
But a time of trouble and conflict seems to have resulted, 
terminated in 1366 by the inhabitants transferring their alle- 
giance to the great house of Habsburg. In 1386, it received 
its present name of Freiburg, i.e., Freetown. For nearly 300 
j^eais h remained an appanage of the Imperial family, being 



FREIBURG. 41 

made an Imperial City in 1490, at the election of Maxi- 
milian I. 

Here Maximilian held the celebrated Diet, after which 
the Treaty of Basle was signed in 1499, recognizing the 
independence of Switzerland. The town, notwithstanding 
its fortifications, was burnt during the War of the Peasants, 
and suffered terribly during the Thirty Years' War. In 
1632, and again in 1638, it was taken by the Swiss, and re- 
taken by the Bavarians in 1644. The French became 
masters of Freiburg in 1677, and new fortifications were 
constructed by Vauban. At the Peace of Nymwegen in the 
following year, the French occupancy was confirmed. The 
town was restored to Austria in 1697 by the Peace of Rys- 
wick, but retaken by the French under Marshal Villars, 
after a protracted resistance in 17 13. In 17 14 at the Peace 
of Rastatt it was given back to Austria. In 1745 it was for 
the third time besieged and captured by the French, and its for- 
tifications blown up. The town was almost totally destroyed 
by Marshal Coigny in 1747. At the Peace of Aix-la- 
Chapelle in 1748, it again reverted to Austria, and at 
the Peace of Pressburg in 1806, Freiburg (and the whole of 
the Breisgau) became a part of the Duchy of Baden. In 
1848, the town was taken from the insurgents by the troops 
of Baden and Nassau. 

THE CATHEDRAL, 

The Miinster, or Catliedral of Freiburg is an 
ornately-decorated, magnificent Gothic structure of red sand- 
stone, mellowed by time. The tower and entrance, nave and 
west aisle, are the most ancient portions, dating from the 
13th century, but the church was originally commenced 
under Conrad von Zahringen in 11 22. The choir dates fronx 



42 THE BLACK. FOREST. 

^5^3* The octagonal tower is 400 feet in height, resting on 
a square basis, and terminates in an open-work spire of 
magnificent design and workmanship. This exquisite spire 
is indeed the most remarkable feature of the symmetrical and 
tasteful edifice, which for perfection of style is unsurpassed 
by any church in Germany. 

Facing the principal portal are* three columns, with 
statues of the Virgin, S. Lambert, and S.Alexander, the latter 
being patron saint of the church. 

In the portal itself, which is most elaborately decorated 
with sculptures, there are no fewer than 37 statues, repre- 
senting the Wise and Foolish Virgins, the Sciences, Saints, etc. 
They were once coloured, but the colours have much faded. 

The other portals are very fine, though that on the south 
side is modem, and out of taste. The visitor should by all 
means walk right round the church, and notice the statues 
and curious devices and designs lavishly distributed. The 
roof and some parts of the building are green with age, 
which contrasts curiously with the red stone of which the 
church is built. 

The Interior should be inspected between 10 a.m. and 
7 p.m., as visitors are not allowed to examine its curiosities 
during service. We may remark in passing that the music 
heard at the services here is very fine, much above the 
average. The length of the interior is 342 feet, the breadth 
100 feet, and the height 100 feet. Keeping to the right 
along the South. Aisle, the visitor will notice 

Stained glass windows of various dates. 

4th Window. The four Evangelists. . Helmer, 1822. 

Tomb of Duke Berthold V. of Zahringen, 12 18. The 
statue on this tomb is said to be life-size. 

Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, containing a figure 
of Christ on a tomb ; the Roman soldiers set to watch the 



FREIBURG. 43 

grave are seen sleeping below. On Good Friday a portion 
of the Host is placed in a small opening in the bosom of the 
figure of Our Saviour. In this chapel are also eight modern 
stained glass windows, admirably executed (from designs by 
Albert Diirer) by Hebner, in 1826. The side-altars display 
some ancient carving j the Adoration of the Magi on the 
left dates from 1505. 

At the end of the South Aisle is a showy altar, shortly to 
be replaced by an altar of solid silver. 

Passing before the Choir to the top of the North Aisle, 
the visitor sees a rich altar, carved in wood and gilt (ijoj). 

At the extreme end of the North Aisle is a closed chapel 
(which the sacristan will open) 5 this is the Chapel of 
St. Alexander, patron saint of the chnrch. The 
costly shrine contains the skeleton of the saint. The bones 
are placed together as if in repose, and are bedizened with 
gems of great value, and are robed in a gold embroidered 
suit, presented in i6jo by Pope Innocent X. A picture in 
this chapel represents the monks who found the skeleton of 
the saint showing the head to the Pope. St. Alexander was 
beheaded at Rome. 

Proceeding down the North Aisle towards the entrance, 
the Chapel of the Mount of Olives is reached, con- 
taining a curious and well-executed relief in stone of the 
Last Supper. The attitudes are very good, especially 
that of St. John leaning on the breast of Christ, and Judas 
at the end of the table, holding the bag, and looking vin- 
dictively towards the Saviour. 

Above the group are four excellent stained glass win- 
dows, by Helmer, from designs by Diirer, 

The North Aisle also contains — 

Statue of Archbishop Bolt, 1836. By Friedrich of 
Strassburg. 



44 THE BLACK FOREST. 

Statue of Archbishop Demeter, 1842. (A singularly 
benign countenance.) 

Tomb of the Counts of Zahringen. (This sarcophagus 
contains the bones brought from the Abbey of Then- 
nenbach in 1829.) 

Painted windows in mosaics of glass, of gorgeous colours. 

The Nave is supported by twelve pillars, with pedestals 
attached, on which are statues of the Apostles. There are 
some rose-windows of stained glass in the west wall. 

The Pulpit, a fine piece of early Gothic work, but not 
elaborate, was executed in 1561 by Gorg Kempf, The sculp- 
tor has introduced his own likeness in a listening attitude at 
a window. 

The visitor must on no account omit seeing the Choir 
and Choir Chapels ; the sacristan is always at hand. 

On the right and left of the entrance to the Choir wdl 
be noticed two chained doorways in the wall. These con- 
tain (l.) the Archives of the Church, and (r.) the Archives 
of the Town. 

The choir, supported on ten pillars, is loftier than the 
nave. 

(r.) Monument to Gen. de Rodt, erected by Maria 
Theresa. 

(r. and L.) Monuments to the builders of the town and 
church, Berthold III. and IV., Conrad III., and Rudolph, 
Dukes of ZiihringeD, by Hauser (1806). 

(r.) Old tapestry found in cellar 5 Abraham preparing to 
offer Isaac. 

(l.) Throne of the Archbishop 5 good modem wood- 
carving by Gldnz, with figures by KnitteL 

High Altar-Piece by Baldung, surnamed Grurif a na- 
tive of the Black Forest. The inside represents the Coronation 
of the Y'lTgin, and the Twelve Apostles ^ the outside represents 



FREIBURG. 4^ 

the Annunciation, Visitation, Nativity, and Flight into Egypt. 
The latter is exceedingly good. 

The Choir Chapels. Commence at the right of the 
altar, and the chapels will then be seen in the following 
order. Notice the mediaeval burlesque sculpture on the 
capitals of the pillars at the entrance. 

1st Chapel. The Baptistery. The altar-piece is a 
triptych. In the centre are SS. August in, Antony, and 
Rochus. On the wings, (l.) S. Sebastian, (r.) S. Chris- 
topher. This is one of the best pictures in the Cathedral, 
but the artist is unknown. Below the altar is some fine old 
tapestry. 

2nd Chapel. University. A fine altar-piece by the 
younger Holbein; the Nativity and the Adoration of the 
Magi (restored about ten years ago). In the latter picture 
the portrait of Holbein is introduced. On the outside of the 
picture are the four doctors of the church. Close by the 
altar is a good portrait of a priest of Basle (Kublein), painted 
by a pupil of Holbein. 

3rd Chapel. The painted windows are by a living artist 
in Freiburg. 

4th Chapel. The windows. Life of St. John. On the 
altar is a showy relief 5 the gilding and colouring are extrava- 
gant, but the figures are good. 

5th Chapel. On the windows are displayed legends of 
the House of Habsburg. 

Opposite this Chapel, at the back of the High Altar, is a 
picture of the Crucifixion, by Baldung Griin, especially worthy 
of notice. It has two wings j on the right are SS. George and 
Lawrence, and on the left John the Baptist and S. Jerome. 
The picture contains a portrait of Griin in a green habit. 

6th Chapel. The windows in this chapel, as well as in 
the ninth, are very old, and much defaced. 



4$ THE BLACK FOREST. 

7th Chapel. Over the altar is a Byzantine Crucifix, 
brought from Palestine by a Bishop of Freiburg in the time 
of the Crusades. The figure of Christ, about six feet high, 
is of gilded copper 5 it is adorned with an embroidered tunic, 
and a number of glittering stones. A large ruby represents 
the wound in the side. 

8th Chapel. On the altar is a small, well-executed relief 
of the Lord's Supper. 

9th Chapel. On the altar is a handsome wood-carving 
of the 1 6th century, representing the Adoration of the Magi. 
The Gothic framework is remarkably fine. 

The visitor will do well to ascend the Tower (entrance 
on the right of the principal portal). The view is admirable, 
and the exterior of the building can be inspected with ease. 
The effect of the interior, as a whole, is better seen from the 
gallery just beneath the tower than from any other part. The 
custodian will show the visitor the clock, by Schwilgue of 
Strassburg, and the belfry. Those who have weak nerves are 
recommended not to ascend beyond the belfry, as the tower 
is of open work, and the ascent may induce giddiness. 

Buildings, Churches, Fountains, etc. 
On the southern side of the Miinster Platz, stands the 
Kaufhaus, a curious 15th century erection. Only the 
exterior is of interest. A portico supports a balcony with 
turrets. The structure is rendered very striking by the free 
use of coloured tiles and painting and gilding. On the 
fa9ade are small statues of the Emperors Maximilian I., 
Philip I. of Castile, Charles V., and Ferdinand I. East of 
the Kaufhaus is the Archiepiscopal Palace. The Grand- 
ducal Palace is a little more to the south. 

A little to the north of the Miinster Platz are the 
Barracks, built hy the Austrian Government in 1776. 



FREIBURG. 47 

On pillars in front are tablets, in memory of soldiers who 
fell in the late war with France. Eastward of the barracks, 
by the Karlplatz, is the Kunsthalle (1846), devoted to 
concerts and dramatic entertainments. The adjacent Karl- 
platz is a large open piece of ground, used for military 
purposes. A band plays here on Sundays at 12 o'clock. 

The Protestant Gliurcll is in the north of the town, 
near the Frankfort .Gate. It is built of red sandstone, being 
the very stones of the old convent of Thennenbacb, removed 
and set up here by Huhsch (1828-1858). The interior is 
plain, but good. On the altar there is a silver crucifix, and 
at the back a fine picture by Durr, of the Resurrection of 
Christ — the four Evangelists are depicted at the sides. This 
picture was presented to the church by the Grand Duke 
Frederick, in i8j6. 

From near the Protestant Church, the fine handsome 
street, called the Kaiserstrasse, runs almost due south, 
through the centre of the town. It contains good shops, and 
like the other principal streets of Freiburg, is well watered 
by clear streams of water from the Dreisam. Ttiree Foun- 
tains adorn this street. The one to the north, has a statue 
of the Archduke Albert, the founder of the University (see 
below), hy Knittel ', the central fountain, opposite the Miin- 
sterstrasse, is an ancient Gothic erection, dating from the 
15th century. Its curious array of bishops, and knights, and 
saints is well worthy of notice. The third fountain, further 
south, in the part of the street where the Fishmarket is held, 
was erected in 1807, as a monument of Berthold III., founder 
of the town 3 it also displays a catalogue of local benefactors. 
In the Kaiserstrasse will be found the English. 
Church. It is a room neatly fitted up in one of the build- 
ings attached to the Post-office. The permanent clergyman 
is the Rev. James Bolton. 



48 THE BLACK FOREST. 

The St. Martinsthor is at the end of the same street. 
It is an ancient gateway, forming part of the old fortifications 
of the city. The fresco on the wall represents the legend of 
St. Martin sharing his coat with a beggar. There is also an 
inscription recording the bravery of the Freiburg volunteers 
against tlie French at Wagenstadt, in 1796. 

In the Berthold Strasse (running westward from 
the Berthold Fountain — see above), is the ancient Univer- 
sity, founded by the Archduke Albert IV., in 1456. Be- 
tween 400 and 500 students are instructed here by forty 
Professors. There are zoological and anatomical collec- 
tions, and a library of 120,000 volumes, in connection with 
the University. Erasmus and other noted names, are found 
on the list of its former students, and in recent times, the 
orientalist Hug, the historian Rotteck, Dr. Baumgartner, 
and other celebrated men, have been connected with it. 

Close by is the Stadthaus (Hotel de Ville), an old 
building, but entirely restored. Opposite stands a good 
Statue of the Franciscan monk, Berthold SchivarZj who in- 
vented gunpowder, in 1340. The statue is by Knittely 1858. 
There is a small relief, representing the first explosion. 
The Franciscan Church, with its beautiful cloisters, is 
close at hand. 

In the Rotteck Platz is a monument to Carlvon Rot- 
teck, 1847. It formerly stood in the Berthhold Strasse, in 
front of the College at which Rotteck taught, but was after- 
wards removed to its present site near his residence. The 
monument consists of a bronze bust, on a granite pedestal. 
Rotteck was the Liberal representative of the city, and Pro- 
fessor of History in the University. 

Amongst other buildings in Freiburg may be enumerated 

the Blind Asylum, the Theatre, the Anatomiege- 

JjaudOj with its Anatomical Museum (near the Protestant 



ENVIRONS OF FREIBURG. 49 

ChurcH), lyhere lectures are delivered in connection with 
the Univcjrsity 3 the Biirger Spital, the Convict 
Prison, the House of Charity, with an admirable bas- 
relief of the Good Samaritan 5 St. Martin's Cliurcli, the 
Loge, and the Museum (near the Miinster) 5 the Herder 
Institute, School of Forest Economy, Gymnasium, etc. 

ENVIRONS OF FREIBURG. 

The scenery round Freiburg is beautiful in the extreme , 
and is by. some considered equal to that of either Heidelberg 
or Baden. There is the charming valley of the Dreisam — a 
well-cultivated plain, stretching to the foot of the Kaiser - 
stuhl (see p. 37) — several scattered hills, very picturesque 
and interesting, besides the more distant views of the Black 
Forest mountains. 

The best point of view for a survey of Freiburg and its 
vicinity is the S Chios sberg. Visitors whose stay in the 
town is very brief should inspect the Miinster, glance at the 
exterior of the Kauf haus, and then, if possible, ascend the 
Schlossberg. The town is left by the Schwabenthor, 
from which a quarter of an hour's ascent by a broad path 
through the vineyards leads to the summit. Three ancient 
castles once commanded this hill, till destroyed by the French 
in 1744- At the highest point (426 feet) is the pavilion of 
Ludswigshohe. Here also is a metal indicator, showing on 
the inner circle the places in view of the spectator; the 
next circle indicates the direction of places in the neigh- 
bourhood not visible; whilst on the outer ring distant 
cities, such as Rome, London, etc., are pointed to. The 
hill is laid out as a pleasure-ground, of which the ruins 
of the old castles form conspicuous ornaments. The 
view is very fine. Looking westward, across the town 
of Freiburg, with its grand cathedral l0N<ie\ \\OTv%^\QkNiL^ 



JO THE BLACK FOREST. 

above it, the Rhine is seen, with the blue Vosges mountains 
beyond, with the Kaiserstuhl (p. 37) rather more to the 
south ; the Lorettoberg (see below), and Schonberg (p. 52), 
are seen to the south-west; the Schauinsland (p. 53) and 
the Belchen (p. 157) are to the south ; and on the east lies 
the fertile and populous valley of Kirchzarten (watered by 
the Dreisam), and the entrance to the Hollenthal. On the 
northern slope of the Schlossberg is a grotto, used for the 
storage and sale of beer, called the Felsenbier Keller. 

Leaving Freiburg by the St. Martin's Thor, a pretty pro- 
menade is reached on the banks of the Dreisam. Crossing 
the bridge, proceed about half-a-raile, and then turning to 
the left, the Swimming-batli at the foot of the Loretto- 
berg, is reached. 

The Loretto Chapel (1086 feet) is on the summit of 
the hill. It contains nothing remarkable. On the north 
wall, over the door, will be seen a cannon ball, fired by an 
artillerist of the King of Sweden against the army of 
Louis XV., which was stationed here. About a hundred 
years before (in 1644), this height was defended by the 
Imperial General Mercy against Turenne. 

The extensive and beautiful view embraces the Giinther- 
sthal (hce below), the hills of Alsace, with the vine-clad 
Kaiserstuhl in the foreground j the Witches' Valley, where 
in old times, persons suspected of witchcraft, were burned ; 
and the Schonberg (p. 52). The general effect is very fine, 
and a good idea is obtained of the beautiful walks and drives 
with which the neighbourhood abounds. 

A fine walk is obtained by continuing the route by the 
Kaiserstrasse, alone a new street, to Kingenderstuhl. It 
quickly brings the visitor into forest scenery, arid some lovely 
views are obtained. 

The Old Cemetery, situated in the suburb of 



ENVIRONS OF FREIBURG. -I 

Herdern, presents several features of interest. There is the 
grave of Hermann Gottlob, Commander of Belgrade, over 
which there is a curious device, emblematic of his chequered 
history. The modern monuments are very good. There is 
one of the Countess of Colombo, and another to Fritz 
Schnltz, which has, however, been wantonly injured. There 
is a good bust of Dr. Herscher, the celebrated Roman Catho- 
lic theologian, of Freiburg j and a monument to the soldiers 
who fell in the late war with France, inscribed, ^' To German 
Warriors, 1870, 187 c.'' 

In front of the Mortuary Chapel, which has a flat 
roof, with frescoes, there is erected a crucifix, and at the foot 
of it is represented a skull with a nail through it, and a frog 
under the jaw. 

The following circumstances are narrated respecting this 
curious memorial : — About forty years ago there dwelt in 
Freiburg a furrier, whose wife unfortunately fell in love with 
a neighbouring baker. The furrier suddenly died, and very 
soon after, his widow and the baker were married. Two 
years passed away. One day, as the sexton was digging a 
grave, he threw out a skull. He paused in his work to speak 
to a friend, when the attention of both was arrested by seeing 
the skull move to and fro. Their curiosity was aroused, and 
they took it up to examine it. They found the cause of the 
movement was a frog under the jaw -, but they also observed 
that the skull had a nail through it. The sudden death of 
the farrier, and equally sudden marriage of his widow, were 
remembered. The men took the relic to the authorities. 
On examination, the woman confessed her crime. She and 
her guilty paramour were both hanged, and the above-men- 
tion^ memorial placed in the cemetery as a warning to 
posterity. 

From the summit of Herdem it is well worth while to 



^2 THE BLACK FOREST. 

continue the walk to the Jagerhauschen, or Hunting House> 
of the once famous Castle of Zahringen. 

The Rosskopf (2437 feet) is an hour's jaunty the 
route is by Hebsack and the Schonehof. The view is very 
good. From the summit the Chapel and Inn of St. Otti- 
lien can be reached in half-an-hour. The return can be 
effected past the paper manufactory and silk-mills to the 
Schwabenthor. 

Manufactories abound in the neighbourhood of Frei- 
burg. Besides the factory and mills just mentioned, others 
for the production of parqueterie and imitation coral, chemical 
products, chicory, leather, soap, potash, and starch, will be 
met with in surveying the district. There are also some 
bell-foundries, some bleaching and dye-works, and some 
gunpowder mills. The political economist will take pleasure 
in noticing the cottages of the workmen, which are neat, 
clean, and respectable. Some (more especially those on the 
land leading to the Hollenthal) are built by the employers, 
and let to the workmen on the building society principle 3 so 
that, in process of time, the rent having gone towards the 
purchase, the house becomes the property of the hirer. 

The Giintherstlial can be reached in an hour's 
walk by either of several paths. It is a sequestered valley, 
enclosed by woods and mountains 5 but, peaceful as it now 
looks, it was a battle-field in the republican contests of 1848. 
Here, in 1224, was founded a convent of Cistercian nuns. 
In later days the nunnery became a brewery, and subse- 
quently a spinning-mill. The Kybfelsen (2716 feet), or the 
Lorettoberg (p. 50), can be easily included, either on the 
way to, or the return from, the Giinthersthal 5 or the excur- 
sion may be extended to the Schonberg (213a feet), the 
scene of the Bavarian battle with Turenne, and the story of 
'' Encore Milh:' 



ENVIRONS OF FREIBURG. ^3 

The Schauinsland, or Erzkasten (4200 feet), can 
be ascended by taking a carriage to Molz-Bauer, in the 
Kappeler Thai (li hours), by Liettenweiler and KappeL 
Thence it is a walk of 2i hours to the cross on the summit 
of the mountain. The visitor can descend to dine at the 
baths of Liettenweiler, and return in the afternoon to Frei- 
burg (3 miles). 

ALT-BREISACH. 

A very interesting excursion can be made by railway 
from Freiburg to Alt-Breisach. During the season a 
third-class return ticket for this jaunt, including a bath in 
the Rhine, costs one mark. The railway runs across the 
marshy district known as the Mooswald 5 and, after crossing 
the Dreisam Canal passes through the rich wine-growing 
country to the south of the Kaiserstuhl. The stations are 
Hugstetten, Gottenheim, Ihringen, From either of the two 
latter the Kaiserstuhl (p. 37) can be readily visited. 

Breisach, or Alt-Breisach (pop. 4500), is pic- 
turesquely situated on a rock above the Rhine. It was the 
Mons Brisidcus of the Romans (said to have been founded by 
Drusus), and in later ages was regarded as the key of Germany. 
It was once strongly fortified, and more surrounded than at 
present by the Rhine. Austrians, and French, and other 
nations have taken and retaken Alt-Breisach at various times 
during the last six hundred years. The fortifications, already 
injured by a change in the course of the Rhine, were in 1 793 
entirely destroyed by the French. There is a fine old partly 
Gothic and partly Romanesque church (St. Stephen's), built 
at various dates from the nth to the ijth century. It con- 
tains a fine rood-loft (15th century), a carved altar-piece 
(Coronation of the Virgin), by Lievering (1526), some pic- 
tures in the choir by Diirr (1851). 

The road from Alt-Breisach to CoW-ax \^ \s^ 'a.Niiv^^ 



^ . THE BLACK FOREST. 

across the Rhine, and by Fort MoHer^ destroyed in 1870, to 
Neu Breisach., with fortifications constructed by Vauban 
in 1700. This town was taken by the Germans after an 
eight days' siege in November, 1870. From Neu Breisach 
it is ten miles to Colmar, once a free town of the Empire, 
now the capital of Upper Alsace. 

Freiburg by Riegel to the Kaiserstuhl, p. 37. 

Freiburg to Todtnau for the Wiesenthal or Wehrathal, 
p. 152. 

Freiburg to St. Blasien by the HoUenthal, p. 134. 

Freiburg to Donaueschingen, p. 163. 

Freiburg to Triberg by Waldkirch and the Simonswald, 

p. Ij2. 

FREIBURG TO BASLE. 

From Freiburg to Basle the railway passes beside the 
western spurs of the Black Forest, with their lower slopes 
clad with vines. St. Georgen, the Schonberg (2132 feet) 
on the left, Schalstadt, the Castle of Staufenburg (p. 158) 
frowning over the town of Staufen (p. 158) at the entrance of 
the Miinsterthal (p. i j8), and Krotzingen, whence an omnibus 
runs to Staufen, are successively passed. 

Krotzingen to the Belchen and Baden weiler (p. i j7). 

Heitersheim, on the Sulzbach, was formerly the resi- 
dence of the Grand Prior of the Knights of Malta. Bug- 
gingen is the next station, and then Mullheim. (Hotel 
Kittler.) This little town occupies about a mile of sloping 
ground, and is noted for the Markgrafler wine made in 
the neighbourhood. From Miillheim there is an omnibus to 
Baden weiler (p. 155). On the Rhine (li miles from station 
Mullheim) is Neuenberg, where Duke Bemhard died in* 
1639 — in all probability a victim to the machinations of 
Richelieu. 



BASLE. /^^ 

Schliengen (famous for the battle between Moreau and 
the Archduke Charles in 1796), Beilingen, Rheinweiler 
(where the allied army crossed the Rhine on a bridge of boats 
in 1 8 14), and Kleinkemsy are next passed ; then the limestone 
clifF overhanging the Rhine, called the Isteiner Klotz, is 
passed through, by means of three tunnels. Along a road 
cut in the side of the hill the train winds on to Efringen, 
At Eimeldingen the Kander is crossed, a glorious prospect of 
the Rhine and the distant Juras is unfolded 3 then Haltingen 
and Leopoldshdhe are passed. The old Castle of Hiiningen, 
on the other side of the Rhine, is next seen, and then the 
traveller speedily arrives at Klein- Basel. 

BALE, BASLE, OR BASEL. 

(Hotel Trois Rols.) 

(A very fine hotel, beautifully situated, with good view 
of the Rhine and opposite bank.) 

Railway Stations.— There are two Railway Stations 
at Basle, and they are about 40 minutes' walk from each 
other. Omnibus, i franc. Carriage, i^ franc j 2 
francs, if more than two persons. 

The Central Station is on the south side of the town, 
a mile from the Bridge and Hotel Trois Rois. Omni- 
bus to town, \ franc. Trains for the Swiss and Alsace 
lines start from this station. 

The Baden Station is in Klein-Basel, nearly a mile 
from the Bridge and the Hotel Trois Rois. Trains for 
Baden, Black Forest, etc., start from this station. 

Basle (population, 45,000) is of Roman origin 5 its name 
is derived from Basileia, or Basilis, a ^^ queen" — probably on 
account of its wealth and importance, and splendid situa- 
tion on the Rhine. The town is iw\Aa^ Xrj >Jwi \\\^^ xssiwsk 



^6 THE BLACK FOREST. 

two parts — Great BasJe on the left bank, and Little Basle on 
the right. 

The geographical position of Basle is very interesting ; 
until the late war it was at the junction of Switzerland, 
France, and Grermany. There was a spot near Kleinhunin- 
gen where it was said a man might plant his foot on all three 
countries at once. 

The inhabitants of Basle have always had the character 
of being thrifty traders, and the charge of usury has been 
laid at their door 5 they also earned the notoriety, in ancient 
times, which attaches to the quarrelsome ; and as late as the 
vear 1833 the city Basle and the country Basle were engaged 
in a civil war on so small a scale as would have rendered it 
ridiculous, but for the bloodshed and death in which it 
resulted. Since that time the belligerent canton has been 
divided into two parts, by order of the Swiss Diet. Each 
half canton has an independent vote, but only one senator is 
returned to the StAnderath. 

Basle has been the scene of several important treaties of 
peace 5 between the Prussians, Spanish, and French, in 1795, 
and in the same year between Spain and France, when the 
latter gave up the provinces south of the Pyrenees in ex- 
change for a portion of the Island of St. Domingo, since lost 
to them. One or two important Councils have been held 
at Basle, notably that in 1431, convened by Pope Martin 
v., to suppress the heresies of the Hussites. 

Among the celebrated men for whom Basle is famous 
may be mentioned : yohn and Charles Bernouilli, the mathe- 
maticians 3 Buxtorff an eminent professor of Oriental lan- 
guages j CEcolampadius and Grynceus, Holbein commenced 
his career in Basle -, Erasmus resided here in the house Zur 
Lust, near the Munster 5 and Euler, the celebrated mathema- 
tlclauj was horn in Basle. 



BASLE. rj 

The best starting-point for a tour of the town is the 
Three Kings Hotel, a place of historic interest, if the 
following statement may be accepted : — 

'* Basle was founded by the Romans at an early period 
(perhaps already in the second century). The Alemanni, 
however, destroyed it about the beginning of the fifth cen- 
tury ; but when that savage nation was itself subjugated by 
Clovis, Basle passed likewise under the sceptre of that 
prince, and remained under the dominion of the Frank 
monarchs till 912, when Rodolphus II., sovereign of the 
newly-established kingdom of Little Burgundy, offered Basle 
his protection against the ferocious Normans and Hungarians, 
who infested the German empire at that time. Notwith- 
standing this promised support, the town was entirely 
devastated and burnt down by the Hungarians. 

"In the year 1004 the rebuilt city was restored to the 
Grerman empire by Rodolphus III., who bequeathed his 
kingdom of Little Burgundy to the Emperor Henry II., and 
gave the town of Basle as a pledge of his promise. In 
1024, Henry's successor, Conrad II., and the son of this 
monarch, Henry III. (already elected as German Emperor) 
had an interview with Rodolphus III., King of Burgundy, 
in a field near Muttenz, in the neighbourhood of Basle ; 
after which deliberation the three sovereigns entered the 
town together, and are said to have alighted and signed their 
agreement at the old inn, which stood on the spot where 
this house now stands, and which, from this circumstance, 
took the name of ' Hotel of the Three Kings,* " 

Maximilian Misson, who visited Basle in 1690, says, in 
his " Instructions to Travellers," — *' At Basle, lodge at the 
* Three Kings,' where you will be well entertained." 

Close by the Hotel is the Wooden Bridge (280 
yards), which connects Gross-Base\ V\\\vY»\€va-^^s^. ^^Ssss* 



ijg THE BLACK FOREST. 

is a very favourite resort in summer evenings j the views up 
and down the river are good. The tourist will watch with 
interest the rafts coming down the river, and note the dex- 
terity with which they are shot under the bridge. No boat 
can force its way against the mighty current here save one, 
and that is ingeniously contrived to propel itself by the cur- 
rent. It is a curious but simple contrivance, and is worth 
the price of the fare just to cross and recross. 

THE CATHEDRAL 

The Miinster, one of the finest Protestant churches in 
the world, is but a short distance from the bridge 5 its two 
tall towers (220 feet high) are conspicuous. It was built by 
the Emperor Henry II. (loio — 1019), and has several times 
since been rebuilt or restored. The west front presents a 
very striking appearance. On either side are statues of St. 
George (left) and St. Martin (right). By the doorway, 
representations of the Emperor Henry, who founded the 
church, and Helena, his wife. Above, the Virgin and Child. 

The northern entrance is graced with a curious represen- 
tation of the parable of the wise and foolish virgins. 

The interior, thoroughly restored and re-decorated in 
1855, contains some objects of interest. Open free, Tuesdays 
and Thursdays, 2 till 4. Other times a small fee. The 
organ (performance once or twice a week in the summer, 
between 6 and 7, one franc), was built in 18 j8, and is a very 
fine instrument. It is supported by the old rood loft of 138 1 . 
Stone pulpit, date 1324. Font, 1465. Monument to 
Erasmus, the learned editor of the New Testament, and 
one of the harbingers of the Reformation. Choir. Tomb 
of Empress Anne, wife of Rudolph of Hapsburg. Stained- 
^]ass windows by Swiss artists. A stairway leads from the 

aAo/r to the Concilium Saal (CouncW HaW^ . ix. ^^& the 



BASLE, ^g 

scene of the councils held between 1431 and 1445, and 
remains now exactly as it was then. It contains, among 
other curiosities, the fragments of the Dance of Death, com- 
memorating the plague. The frescoes were not painted by 
Holbein, as was formerly supposed. Beneath the Council 
Hall, in the chapel of S. Nicholas, is the Lallenkonig, a 
curious head which formerly stood on the bridge, and every 
time the clock struck it protruded its tongue, in derision 
of the inhabitants of Klein-Basel, with whom the people 
of Gross-Basel were on unfriendly terms (p. 56). The 
cloisters are extensive, and were used as a burial-place 
for many centuries. Close by is the Pfalz, a pleasant pro- 
menade, planted with chestnut trees -, it is between 70 and 
80 ft. above the Rhine, and commands fine views of the 
hills of the Black Forest. 

THE MUSEUM. 

Between the bridge and the Miinster is the Museum. 
(Open free, Sundays 10 — 12, Wednesdays 2 — ^4. Other times 
I franc.) Its chief attraction is a collection of paintings and 
drawings by the younger Holbein. There are other works 
of value and interest. Notice especially in the Holbein 
Room — 

13. Portrait of Boniface Amberbach, a friend of the painter, 

who formed this collection of his works. 

14. Erasmus. 

20. Holbein's wife and children. 

22. Lais Corinthiaca. (Madame von Off en burg.) 

23. Venus with Cupid. „ 

26. The Passion of Christ. (Eight compartments.) 
34. Froben, the printer. 

In the collection of modern Swiss artists, notice — 
146. A Mountain Festival .... S\.ucV«\.W^. 



6o THE BLACK FOREST. 

150. Watering the Cattle . . . . F. Koller. 

In the Birmann collection — 
266. Nativity ..... Annihale Caraccu 
291. Smoker. ....... Teniers. 

Modern German school — 
351. Macbeth and the Witches . . . y. Koch, 

361. The death of Joseph .... Overheck, 

The collection of drawings is very good. 

In addition to the picture gallery, there is a good collec- 
tion of antiquities, found, for the most part, at Augst, 
the site of an old Roman colony — Augusta Rauracorum, six 
miles from Basle — and other curiosities. 

In the same building is the Public Library, with 
nearly 100,000 volumes, and a collection of MSS., including 
writings of the Reformers. The University, close by, 
was founded in 1460. Bemouilli and Euler were professors 
here. 

In the market-place is the Ratbhaus (Town Hall). 
Built 1508, restored 1826. The arms of the canton Basle 
adorn the fagade, and in front of the inner court is a statue 
of Munatius Plancus, the supposed founder of Basle and 
Augst. 

Near here, in the Freien-Strasse, is the Post OfRce, 
a very old building restored, and in the immediate vicinity 
are several buildings dating from about the sixteenth cen- 
tury. 

The Arsenal (Zeughaus), contains a collection of 
armour, Burgundian cannon, etc. The principal curiosity 
is a suit of chain armour worn by Charles the Bold at the 
Battle of Nancy. 

A short distance from the Arsenal is a very beautiful 
rountain, the Spahlenbrunnen, iepteseti\:m^^.>o^%-^v(^^T, 



BASLE. 6 1 

designed^ probably, by Albert Diirer. The Spahlenthor, 
or Gate of St. Paul, built in the 14th century, is very fine. 

The churches of Basle are — 

The Barfiisser Church, fourteenth century. (Not 
used now as a place of worship.) 

The Church of S. Elizabeth, the most magnificent 
modem building in Basle. It is in the Gothic style, and is 
the gift of one Christopher Mirian, a merchant of Basle, 
who left an enormous sum (nearly a quarter of a million) for 
its erection. Good stained-glass windows. 

Church of St. Martin, where CEcolampadius preached 
the doctrines of the Reformation. The English Church Ser- 
vice is performed here. 

Basle has long been celebrated for its philanthropists, 
and there are at the present time, in admirable working 
order, a number of good institutions for the social, moral, 
and religious welfare of the people. Among them are the 
Protestant Missionary and Bible Society, Missionary School, 
Society for the Promotion of the Public Welfare, besides 
asylums, and other benevolent institutions. 

The Central Railway Station, on the south side of 
the town, is liandsome. On the exterior, reliefs of Newton, 
Humboldt, Laplace, and Euler. It will be observed that there 
are also two clocks, which differ by twenty-two minutes. 
One shows the Paris time, the other the time of Basle. 
Much interest attaches to the time in Basle, as the following 
will show : — 

*' Everybody knows how, until the end of the last cen- 
tury, it was a part of the religion of the people of Basle to 
keep their clocks an hour in advance of those of the rest of 
the world. It is somewhat remarkable, however, that the 
origin of so singular a practice should not be more clearly 
traced. One theory accounts for it, by the supposition that 



62 THE BLACK FOREST. 

the people of Basle were an hour lazier than other people, and 
required this notable device in order to keep them up to the 
mark. Another is, that the town clock having been struck by 
lightning, and the hand forced an hour forward, the super- 
stition of the people prevented them from interfering with 
what they considered to be the act of heaven. A third is, 
that the attempt of an enemy to surprise the town at a certain 
appointed hour, was defeated by the town clock, which was 
to have given the signal, striking an hour in advance, and 
thus deceiving them into the belief that they were too late j 
in grateful commemoration of which this tribute of respect 
was paid to bad clock-making— like that of the Romans to 
the geese which saved the Capitol. A fourth theory — and 
that which finds favour in the eyes of the respectable traveller, 
Coxe — is, that it is owing to the fact that the choir of the 
cathedral was built at a little deviation from the due east, 
which consequently produced a corresponding variation upon 
the sun-dial which was affixed to it. Whatever the origin of 
the practice might be, it was considered by the people of 
Basle as an integral part of their constitution ; and every 
proposition made in the council to alter it met with a signal 
defeat.'* In 1799 ^^^7 were put right, however, and Basle 
now keeps '^ railway-time." 

Basle is rapidly rising in the estimation of tourists, and 
a day or two may be spent here with pleasure. There are 
good Swimming Baths, and a Reading Club, and a handsome 
new Theatre is in course of erection 5 the Zoological Gar- 
dens, which are planned on an extensive scale, will prove a 
great attraction. 

ENVIRONS OF BASLE. 

In the environs of Basle are some charming walks and 
drives. About three-quarters of a mile from the town is the 



• BASLE. 5q 

Battle-fleld of St- Jacob, where/ in 1444, 130a 
Swiss withstood an army of 40,000 French, under the com- 
mand of the Dauphin of France, at that time a confederate 
of the Austria ns. The latter army perished, only ten escap- 
ing alive, and the battle of St. Jacob is still referred to as 
the Thermopylae of Swiss history. The vineyards near here 
produce a red wine called Schweitzer Blut (Swiss Blood). 
It was not till 1872 that a monument was erected to their 
memory. It is a very fine one by F, Schloth, and bears the 
inscription, " Our souls to God, our bodies to the enemy." 
Well Worth seeing. 

Augst, six miles. A few Roman remains. (See below.) 
Arlesheim, six miles. Formerly summer residence of 
Bishops of Basle. Fine English park surrounding the ruined 
castle of Birseck. 

Benedictine Convent of Mana stein, six miles. 

Very picturesque. 

HUningen, three miles. A great establishment for 
pisciculture. 

Basle to Schopfheim by rail (see p. 160). 

Basle to Olten, for various parts of Switzerland (see 
Cook's Tourist'' s Handbook to Switzerland), 

BASLE TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. 

The Station of the Baden Railway is in Klein-Basel. 
Time, 3 hours. 

Grenzack, — A very good wine grown here. Whylen. 
. The castles of Birseck, Angerstein, and Landskron are 
seen on the Jura heights. As the Rhine is neared, Augst 
is seen on the opposite side. This village occupies the site 
of the ancient Raura^a, afterwards Augtista Rauracorum^ 
founded by L. Munatius Plancus in the time of Augustus, 
and destroyed in the jth century by the Huns. 



6^ THE BLACK FOREST. 

Rheinfelden, on the left bank of the Rhine, is next 
seen 3 a little walled town, thoroughly Swiss. It was 
largely built with materials brought from the ruins of Augst 
(p. 63): Rheinfelden was one of the border forts of the 
Holy Roman Empire : many battles were fought around it 
during the Thirty Years' War -, it sustained numerous sieges, 
until, in 1744, it was taken by the French, and all its for- 
tifications levelled. It has formed part of Switzerland since 
1 80 1. The Covered Bridge (supported by a rock, with 
ruins of the once formidable Steinschloss destroyed by the 
Swiss in 1445), the Upper Gate, and the Stork's Nest Tower, 
are curious and interesting. There are some famous sdt- 
works in the vicinity of the town, and baths. The Rhine 
here narrows, and rushes in a foaming torrent, forming the 
Hollenhaken (Hooks of Hell). 

Passing Beuggen, once a lodge of the Teutonic Order, 
but since 181 7, a Reformatory for Children, and Normal 
School for Teachers, Brennet (Hotel Werrathal) is reached. 

Brennet to Todtmoos by the Wehrathal (p. 161). 

Sackingen (Hotel Schiitzen).— A fine old Abbey 
Church. 

At Murg the river of the same name is crossed. There 
is a route from Murg by Harpoligen and the castle of Sehl 
to Herrischried, From Herrischried there are cross routes 
to either Todtmoos or fTehr in the Wehrathal or to Tiefen- 
stein in the Albthal (p. 143). 

Klein- Laiiffenburg, — A covered bridge connects it with 

Lauffenburg (from Lauffen, cataracts). — An ancient 
Castle here, destroyed in the Thirty Years' War. The 
Rhine is here very picturesque, passing through a rocky 
channel, where it forms a series of cataracts, impossible for 
loaded boats to pass. Good salmon fishing. 

After passing through a tunnel nearly a thousand feet in 



BASLE TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. 65 

length, and across some lofty viaducts, near stations Liittingen 
and Hauensiein, the once important iron town of Albbruck 
(Hotel Albthal) at the mouth of the Albthal is reached. 

Albbriick to St. Blasien (seep. 142). 

Passing Dogern station we (see below) next arrive at 

Waldshut (Hotel Kiihner, near the Station), a walled 
town, and a railway junction (pop. 1000). It is on the mar- 
gin of the Black Forest, nearly opposite the mouth of the 
Aare. Waldshut is an uninteresting town, and has not a 
vestige of holiday attraction about it. Entering by a gate, 
there is before the traveller one long street, terminated by 
another gate, and this is the whole of Waldshut. Some of 
the houses are old, with large, projecting gables and cranes. 
The shutters to all the windows throughout the town are 
green. The church is whitewashed inside, and contains 
nothing worthy of remark. The walks in the neighbour- 
hood of Waldshut are pretty, especially to Calvarienberg, 
Gurtweil, and Dogern — the latter a Rhine bathing-place. 

Waldshut to Hochenschwand and the Hollenthal (p. 148). 

Waldshut to Turgi and Ziirich (see Cook's Tourist* s 
Handbook to Switzerland) . 

Passing by a tunnel under the Aarberg and crossing the 
Schluct, Thiengen is next reached, with its old castle. The 
railway crosses the Wutach at station Oher-Lauchringen with 
Unter-Lauchringen on the opposite bank j the ruins of Kiis- 
senberg are seen on the right. The origin of this fortress is 
ascribed to the Romans, it was afterwards a stronghold of 
the Bishops of Constance, and met its destruction from the 
Swiss in 1499. Stations, Griesseji, Erzingen (the last station 
in the Baden territory), Wilschingen (the first station in the 
Canton of SchafFhausen), Neunkirch, Bering en, Neuhausen. 



66 THE BLACK FOREST. 

NEUHAUSEN. 

(Hotel Schweizerhof, immediately facing the Falls, and 
with fine view of the Alps.) 

This is the best station for alighting to visit the Falls 

of the Rhine. 

The Rhine, above the Falls, is about 300 feet wide 5 the 
height of the Falls is about 60 feet on one side, 45 feet on 
the other, and the water rushes in three leaps, with a volume 
of about 80,000 cubic feet per second, and then falls into a 
large basin. Descend through the beautiful grounds belong- 
ing to the Schweizerhof Hotel, to the Schlosschen Worth, 
where there is a fine view. Here also is a camera obscura, 
a restaurant, and a stall of fancy goods. Then take a boat 
(3 francs for i to 3 persons) and row in the midst of the 
turbulent waters to the middle rock in the Falls. The boat 
will rock violently, and the spray may fall heavily, but there 
is no danger — in fact, an accident has never been known. The 
tourist will alight just at the foot of the great volume of water, 
and will find it hard to make himself heard in conversation 
without an effort. Ascend to a pavilion (** the Umbrella,'* 
as it is called in the neighbourhood), and a view of unspeak- 
able grandeur will be witnessed. 

If the traveller is nervous, and does not care to visit the 
rock, go by ferry direct to SchlOSS Laufen (30c.). 

Schloss Laufen is beautifully situated inunediately above 
the Falls. Admission to the grounds, i franc. Although 
the general effect of the Falls is grand from any point of 
view, it is impossible to fully realize their true beauty and 
grandeur except from the Schloss Laufen. 

Passing through the rooms, in which will be found a 

good coJJection of Swiss carvings, photographs, water-colour 

drawIngSj and curiosities, the traveWer eivtei^ ^^ evi^losed 



FALLS OF THE RHINE. 67 

grounds^ and sees first a pavilion from which a good general 
view is obtained (with or without stained glasses) . Descend- 
ing by a pleasant path^ he then enters a small tunnel in the 
rock, against which the waters are booming, and it seems as 
if the rocks shook. This leads to the Kanzli> a wooden 
platform beside the Falls. Then descend again, and enter 
through a doorway to the FisclietZ, an iron platform, 
overhanging the troubled sea of waters. (Here waterproofs 
are kept, and are often needed, as the spray continually 
dashes over.) The most imposing view and the finest effects 
are to be seen here. 

A description by John Ruskin will be read here with 
pleasure : — 

** Stand for an hour beside the Falls of Schaffhausen, 
on the north side, where the rapids are long, and watch 
how the vault of water first bends unbroken in pure polished 
velocity over the arching rocks at the brow of the cataract, 
covering them with a dome of crystal twenty feet thick, so 
swift that its motion is unseen except when a foam-globe 
from above darts over it like a falling star 5 and how the 
trees are lighted above it under all their leaves at the instant 
that it breaks into foam ^ and how all the hollows of that 
foam bum with green fire, like so much shattering chryso- 
prasi 5 and how, ever and anon startling you with its white 
flash, a jet of spray leaps hissing out of the fall, like a rocket 
bursting in the wind and driven away in dust, filling the air 
with light 5 and how, through the curdling wreaths of the 
restless, crashing abyss below, the blue of the water, paled 
by the foam in its body, shows purer than the sky through 
white rain cloud; while the shuddering iris stoops in tre- 
mulous stillness over all, fading and flushing alternately 
through the choking spray and shattered sunshine, hiding it- 
self at last among the thick goldea \e2L\^^ ^\i\^ \xi'Sfi»\.^ 'kxA 



68 THE BLACK FOREST. 

fro in sympathy with the wild waters, their dripping masses 
lifted at intervals, like sheaves of loaded com, by some 
stronger gush from the cataract, and bowed again upon the 
mossy rocks as its roar dies away." 

The tourist should now return to the Castle, and after 
passing out into the road, turn to the left, and descend by 
a path to the Railway Bridge. This he will cross by a 
footway, and will notice the river bed, the gathering waters 
rushing to the Fall, and the unequal arches of the bridge. 
Then through vineyards on the left, and back, past the 
village, to the hotel. The Falls should be seen in the early 
morning, when the rainbows are around them 5 by the light 
of the sunset 5 and, if fancy so dictates, illuminated with 
magnesium and Bengal lights. The best time in the year 
for witnessing a mighty rush of waters is in June or July, 
when the snow of the Alps is melting, but the Falls are 
always grand. On a moonlight night the effects are exqui- 
site. 

Dr. Forbes thus describes the scene : — "We walked out 

vOn the terrace in front of the hotel to enjoy the view of the 

Falls by moonlight. The evening was as lovely as the day 

had been — warm, cloudless, and without a breath of wind. 

The huge white mass of tumbling foam lay straight before 

us, the only bright spot in the dimly-lighted landscape, and 

attracting and fixing the eye exclusively on itself. No sound 

was heard but the one continuous roar of the water, softened 

by the distance, and seeming to fill the whole air like the 

moonshine itself. There was something both wild and 

delightful in the hour and its accompaniments. The mind 

yielded passively to the impressions made on the senses. A 

host of half-formed, vague, and visionary thoughts crowded 

into it at the same time, giving rise to feelings at once 

tender and me/ancholy, accompamed -wvlVv a sort of object- 



SCHAFFHAUSEN. 69 

less sympathy or yearning after something unknown. The 
ideas and emotions most definite and constant were those of 
power and perpetuity, wonder and awe. What was now 
impressing the senses and the mind seemed a part of some- 
thing infinite, which they could neither comprehend nor 
shake off-, the same mass, the same roar, the same rush day 
and nighty year after year, age after age, now and for ever ! ** 
SchafFhausen is the capital of the same named Can- 
ton. The name SchafFhausen is derived from the " skiff- 
houses," which were once ranged here along the river bank 
when it was a mere landing-place for goods, and was prin- 
cipally peopled by boatmen. It is a remarkably picturesque 
town, and retains some good specimens of the Suabian style 
of the sixteenth century. Notice the frescoes on some of 
the houses, especially the House Zam Ritter, opposite the 
Krone Hotel. The Cathedral, founded 1052, was once 
an Abbey Church ; the style is Romanesque, very massive. 
The inscription on the great bell (cast in 1468) gave the 
suggestion to Schiller for his exquisite*' Lied von der Glocke,*' 
It runs as follows : — "Vivos voco, mortuos plango, fulgura 
frango." The Castle of Munoth, with a thick, bomb- 
proof wall and a round tower, was built 1564 ; visitors may 
inspect it, enjoy ths view, and enter the subterranean pas- 
sages for a trifling fee. The Library is only celebrated 
for the works of Johann von Miiller, the Swiss historian. 
On the Promenade (Vesenstaub) is Miiller's monument. 
.A good swimming-bath in the river. The Imthurneum 
(named after its founder, M. Imthurn, a native, who pre- 
sented it to the town) contains a good Theatre, Concert and 
Ball Room, etc. 

Schaff hausen to Singen (p. 103), and Constance (p. 104). 
Schaffhausen to Winterthur, Zurich, etc., by Railway, see 
Cook's Tourisfs Handbook to Switzerland. 



yo THE BLACK FOREST. 

SCHAFFHAUSEN TO CONSTANCE, BY BOAT. 

Time, 4 to «; hours ; reverse journey Constance to Schaff- 
hausen, 3 hours. 

Paradies, formerly a nunnery. The Austrian army, 
under the Archduke Charles, crossed the Rhine here 1799. 
Diessenhofen, where the French army in 1800 effected a 
passage before the Battle of Hohenlinden. Stein, a fine 
old town. Abbey of St. George. Ruined Castle of Hoh^n- 
klingen, with a good view. 

Soon after leaving Stein the river widens, and the 
Untersee (Lower Lake) is entered. The Castle of Freu- 
denfels is seen on the right, and below it the village of 
Eschenz, To the left, Oberstaad, near which are the Quarries 
of Oehningen, remarkable for fossils 5 on the right, Steck- 
horn and FeLdhach, nunnery. At Berlingen the Island Of 
Reichenau is seen to advantage (seep. 113). To the right 
of Berlingen is the Castle of Eugensberg, built by Eugene 
Beauharnais; the Castle of Salenstein; Arenenb erg, where 
Queen Hortense died, and Napoleon IH. visited. Soon after 
leaving Ermatingen, the narrow passage connecting the 
Untersee with the Lake of Constance is entered. On the 
right is the castellated Monastery of Gottlieben, where 
John Huss and Jerome of Prague were imprisoned by order 
of the Emperor Sigismund and Pope John XXIL It is 
a curious coincidence that Pope John XXIL should have 
himself been confined in this very castle a few years later, 
by order of the Council of Constance. The remainder of 
the journey is somewhat uninteresting. 

Constance (see p. 105). 



THE BLACK FOREST RAILWAY. 7 1 

THE BADEN STATES OR BLACK FOREST 

RAILWAY, 

This railway has been recently completed from Offen- 
burg to Singen, by the State of Baden, and has not only 
opened up a new and most interesting route to Switzerland, 
but affords such facilities as to induce those who have 
been desirous of visiting the Black Forest, but have been 
deterred through the difficulty of getting to its most inter- 
esting points, now to accomplish their object. Tourists can 
now readily arrange either to make a complete circuit of the 
Forest, or only to take such sections as the time they have 
at their disposal will admit, or as their tastes for the dif- 
ferent descriptions of forest scenery may dictate. 

The only difficulty at present existing, and that a slight 
one, is that the most beautiful scenery lies on the two oppo- 
site sides of the Forest, and in pretty close proximity to the 
two lines of railway, viz., the OfFenburg-Singen branch, and 
the Off enburg-Frei burg- SchafFhausen line; therefore it is 
not possible to see the most important features of this 
anique district without breaking the railway journey, and 
penetrating into the Forest, either on foot, or by private car- 
riage, or by post-diligence. 

The Black Forest Railway was constructed in three por- 
tions. The first, from Offenburg to Hausach, 2o| miles in 
length, was opened for traffic in Jul), 1866. Its cost was 
,^^250,000. The line follows the Kinzig Valley j the incline 
not exceeding i in 200. 

The Hausach- Villingen portion of the railway, 32f 
miles in length, was commenced in the summer of 1867 ; 
but being interrupted during the war with France, it was not 
opened for traffic till November, 1873. It cost .5^1,162,500, 
of which about ^917,000 were expended between Horn- 



«2 THE BLACK FOREST. 

berg and St. Georgen. On the line between Hausach (leav- 
ing the Kinzig Valley) and Gutach the inclines vary from 
I in 450 to I in 56. From Gutach to Hornberg, and thence 
to Triberg and Sommerau, the inclines are generally about 
I in jo. At Sommerau, the highest point of the line is 
reached at a height of nearly 2800 feet above the sea level. 
Thence there is a descent to Villingen. 

Between Hausach and Villingen, thirty-eight tunnels are 
passed through. 

The third portion of the line, from Villingen to Singen, 
40 miles in length, was opened in September, 1866, the 
cost of construction being ^597,000. This branch joins the 
Wurtemberg Neckar Valley Railway at Villingen, and the 
Grand Ducal Baden Railway at Singen. 

In a strategic and political point of view, the Black 
Forest Railway is considered as of immense importance. 
The experience of the war of 1870-71 showed how easily 
the traffic of the Upper Rhine Valley might be disturbed. 
In consequence of the railway running over a portion of 
foreign (Swiss) territory, the passage of troops and the 
transport of necessaries of war were hindered and delayed. 
Although the Rhine from Basle and the whole of Alsace are 
now included in German territory, still, taking into account 
the eventualities of the future , it is deemed a great advan- 
tage by means of the Black Forest Railway and its branches 
penetrating into the very heart of Germany, to be able to 
bring up rapidly large bodies of troops to defend the passes of 
the Forest, or the passage of the Rhine. 

But of more agreeable interest is the mercantile aspect 

of this railway. The opening of the line has, of course, 

facilitated the transport of goods from the interior of the 

Forest, and given a great impetus to the native industries. 

On the completion of the St. Gothard railway, the Black 



OFEENBURG TO HAUSACH. r o 

Forest line will doubtless become one of the chief means of 
transport between Germany, Switzerland, and Italy. The 
distance between Offenburg and Singen, which by the Rhine 
Valley line is 149 miles, is reduced by the Black Forest 
line to 93f miles. 

OFFENBURG TO HAUSACH. 

At Offenburg, on the railway from Baden or Strass- 
burg to Basle (see p. 36), the tourist leaves the Rhine Valley 
to dash into the heart of the Black Forest. In the large and 
commodious station there is a good refreshment room, 
wh^re the celebrated Offenburg beer is in great demand. 

The town, containing about 5500 inhabitants, is at the 
mouth of the Kinzigthal. It is a walled town, and amongst 
its chief buildings are a red sandstone church, of modern Gothic 
style, a town-house, a merchant's hall, a gymnasium, theatre, 
hospital, and nunnery. The chief manufactures are of mops 
and glass j there are also a few mills and tanneries. It was 
once an imperial town of considerable importance, as the 
seat of government for the Suabian district of Ortenau. 
At the end of the Hauptstrasse there is a square surrounded 
by trees, in which there is a statue of Sir Francis Drake, 
" the introducer of the potato into Europe in 1586,*' exe- 
cuted by Friedrich of Strassburg in 1853. Sir Francis stands 
on a high pedestal in knightly array, holding potatoes in his 
left hand. There is a curious *' Mount of Olives," dating 
from 1520, in the Old Cemetery. 

In the neighbourhood of Offenburg are produced the 
Klingelburger and Teller wines. The fishing and shooting 
of this district are a great attraction to many. A shooting 
licence (which is necessary) can be obtained of Mr. Schell 
for seven florins, which is valid from the date of purchase to 



74 THE BLACK FOREST. 

the en^ of the current year. It extends all over the Grand 
Duchy of Baden, of course with permission of the owners. 
Roes, pheasants, hares, and partridges are the chief game. 
The season is from September to May. 

Leaving Offenburg, the Black Forest railway conducts 
the traveller to the fertile and well -peopled Kinzigthal ; the 
first station reached is Ortenberg, a town of about 1300 
inhabitants. On the hill above rises the modem Gothic 
Castle of Ortenberg, surrounded by vineyards. Here for- 
merly stood the old castle, where resided the representatives 
of the imperial authority in the district of Ortenau. Here, 
in 1549, died Count Wilhelm, the celebrated " condottiere," 
the friend of Bayard, and the deadly enemy of the Constable 
de Montmorency. The ancient castle was blown up in 1668 
by Marshal Cr^qui. The ruins and estate were purchased 
by Herr von Hcrckholz, who had the present structure 
erected in the ancient style, from designs by Professor Eiseri' 
lohr. Permission to view the chateau can be readily ob- 
tained. The grounds are prettily laid out, the interior 
pleasingly furnished and decorated, and the view from the 
high tower, which includes the Vosges mountains, is very 
fine. 

Gengenbach (pop. a5oo) is larger than most of the • 
towns met with on the present route. In towers, and walls, 
and gates, it still shows the relics of its former importance, 
when, till the Peace of Luneville, it was a free Imperial 
City. Gengenbach, and also its ancient Benedictine Abbey, 
are both said to date their origin from 736 a.d. The town 
suffered fearfully during the Thirty Years* War, and was 
burnt down by the French in 1689. ITie Rathhaus was built 
in 1734. 

Kastellberg is about half an hour's walk from Gengen- 
bach. A chapel stands on the site of a demolished Roman 



OFFENBURG TO HAUSACH. y^ 

castle, around which Roman antiquities have bepn dis- 
covered. There is a good view from this spot, including the 
city of Strassburg. Further on in the same direction, Teu- 
felskanzel is reached, from which there is a path dowp. through 
the forest to the Hiittersbacher Valley, where the Baths of 
Hiittersbach are situated. From this valley Gengenbach can 
be reached by way of Einach. The whole round can easily 
be done in three and a half hours. The trip can be extended 
to a pleasant day's excursion by going from Einach to the 
Hochkopf, whence some beautiful views can be obtained. 

Proceeding by rail from Gengenbach, the scenery becomes 
prettier, although with rather a monotony of prettiness. The 
views between OfFenburg and Hornberg are not to be com- 
pared with those between Hornberg and Villingen. In the 
former district the road is comparatively level, and the tra- 
veller looks up at the scenery, whereas in the latter the valleys 
lie stretched out below him. 

Passing up the Kinzigthal, whose hardy inhabitants are 
chiefly employed in floating timber down their river to the 
Rhine, the next stations reached are Schonherg^ and then 
Biberach, 

From Biberacli some pleasant excursions can be made. 
There is a road to Lahr (9 miles) by the Schutterthal, pass- 
ing the ruins of Hohengeroldseck (see p. 37). This 
castle is said to have been founded about the year 800 by 
Ceroid, a relation of Charlemagne, on the ruins of a Roman 
watch-tower. The Hohengeroldseck family died out in 1634. 
The views from the ruins are very fine. 

The Prinzbachthal opens to the right of Biberach. 
Old legends say that here formerly stood a large Roman town, 
founded by Hadrian, and possessing many rich mines. This 
tow^n is furthermore said to have been destroyed in 1088 by 
the Freiburgers ; but Freiburg was not then in existence. 



76 THE BLACK FOREST. 

Jt was not till the 14th century that the Freiburgers made 
their power felt in this district. Traces of Roman occupa- 
tion have, however, been discovered. 

On the opposite side of the Kinzig, to the left of the 
railway, the Unterharmersbacher and Nordracher Thais 
unite near the town of Zell. 

Zell, or Zell-am-Harmersbach, is a thriving little 

town, with important stoneware and porcelain factories. Like 
many other towns hereabout, Zell was burnt in the Thirty 
Years* War ; it still possesses remains of its old moats and 
walls. 

Pleasant excursions into the Nordracher and Unter- 
harmersbacher Thais can be made from this point. 
In the latter valley is the large village of Oberharmersbach. 
There is a tine church, with a good organ, and an altar-piece 
by Diirr, The Inn — Drei Schweinskopfe, or " Three Pigs* 
Heads " — commemorates the old custom of nailing up the 
heads of wild boars killed in the chase. 

From Zell the Renchthal (p. 130) can be reached by 
either the Nordracher or Unterharmersbacher Thai. 

Resuming the railway journey from Biberach, the next 
station reached is Steinach, a large village, from whence 
an excursion can be made by a picturesque road over the 
Geisberg to Schweighausen, for the ascent of the Huhner- 
sedels -, this mountain is very easy to ascend. 

Steinach to Ettenheim (p. 37) by the Miinster- 
tbal. The route is by Welschsteinnach, Schweighausen, 
Streitberg, Ettenheinmiinster (with monastic ruins), St. 
Landolin (with springs which are asserted to have welled 
forth miraculously from the saint's tomb), and Miinch- 
weiler. 

The next station is at Hasslach, the principal town 
of the district After the battle of Hochstadt, in 1704, the 



HAUSACH. 77 

French burnt down everything in Hasslach except the parish 
church. 

From Hasslach an excursion can be made in an hour and 
a half .to the Heidburg, with ruins of a small castle. The 
view is splendid . In the Prechthal beyond Miihlenbach 
a votive stone dedicated to Diana Abnoba in 195 by Cassianus 
Cassatius and his brother Attianus, was discovered in 1786, 
having been laid bare by an inundation. It is now in Frei- 
burg. 

There is a beautiful route (9 miles) from Hasslach 
by Hofstetten and Heidburg (see above) to Elzach (see 

The railway now passes through very picturesque scenery 
— a mingling of orchard and meadow and woodland to 
Hausach. 

Hausach. is a small town, till recently the terminus of 
the railway 3 a new station is in course of erection (1875), ^^ 
consequence of the rapidly increasing traffic. Above the 
town are the ruins of the old castle, destroyed in 1643 by 
the French. It was formerly a residence of the Princes of 
Fiirstenberg. 

Hausach to Horaberg by rail (see p. 84). 

From the Railway Station at Hausach post diligences run 
to Wolfach a hour), Rippoldsau (3 hours), or Alpirsbach 
(3 hours). 

HAUSACH TO WOLFACH, 

The valley of the Kinzig is followed leaving at Am Thurm 
the Gutach valley route to Hornberg and Triberg on the 
right. Kirnhach, whose inhabitants are noticeable for their 
picturesque costumes, is passed, and in less than three miles 
from Hausach, Wolfach is reached. 



7 8 THE BLACK FOREST. 

WOLFACH 

(Hotel Krone) 

is a town of about 1600 inhabitants, prettily situated amongst 
wooded mountains at the junction of the Kinzig and Wolfach. 
It is a healthy spot, and its celebrated pine-cone baths attract 
numerous visitors every year. There are a few mineral 
springs. The inhabitants of the town carry on a consider- 
able trade in wood. 

Wolfach owes its origin to a family of that name, who 
used to live in a castle of which the ruins are seen near the 
road to Rippoldsau. This family died out in the 13th cen- 
tury, and the castle passed into the hands of the Fiirsten- 
bergs. The town of Wolfach was burnt in 1633 by the 
Swedes. The Church dates from 1479, ^^^ t^® Rathhaus 
from 1564. 

. The jaded citizen anxious to escape for awhile from hurry 
and turmoil, and fashion and conventionality, can scarcely 
do better than linger for a time at Wolfach. Calm seclusion, 
beautiful scenery, and health- giving odours of the forest and 
mountain, combine to make this tranquil retreat a perfect 
haven of rest. And then, as a recent writer says, " For 
those who cannot inhale sufficient fir scent in a mountain 
walk, the pine bath of the Black Forest is a positive luxury, 
for the efficacy of the pine cure is brought home to us. For 
all nervous disorders it is impossible to imagine a more grate- 
ful remedy than to bathe in the memory of a thousand forests, 
and to feel every nerve strengthened with the soothing and 
healing pleasure of the pine tree. For so it is. The essence 
or juice of which the bath is composed, is derived from boil- 
ing down the pine leaf. The liquor into which you plunge 
is dark and pleasantly scented. The effect is indescribably 
delicious^ even to those who do not need It." 



WOLFACH. 70 

Short excursions can be made from Wolfach, to the 
Jacobskapelle, with its strange legend of a picture 
of St. James, which is said to have discovered itself by 
singing whilst hidden in the cleft of a tree j to the castle 
ruins above the town (i hour) j to the neighbouring 
copper, silver, lead, and other mines on the Wolfberg j to 
the Riegelsberg in the Kimbach valley, etc. 

WOLFACH TO RIPPOLDSAU. 

(By Diligence 2| hours.) 

Day by day a constant stream of carriages passes through 
Wolfach to Rippoldsau. The route is through picturesque 
and ever-varying scenery. As the roadway ascends, the 
forest-covered hills close in nearer and nearer till on 
approaching Rippoldsau, there is only room for the river and 
road between the wooded slopes on either side. 

Passing from Wolfach up the Wolfach Valley, Ober- 
wolfach Bnd Altwolfach are successively passed 3 a road to St. 
Bonan is left on the right, and one to Freiersbach in the 
Harmersbachthal on the left, and soon after the Wildschap- 
bachthal, with a lovely route to Petersthal, is passed on the 
left. 

Eight miles from Wolfach, Schapbach is reached j 
its houses are scattered over a considerable extent of 
country. The dress of the peasants is very peculiar. The 
construction of the houses is also curious. The first floor 
forms the dwelling-house proper, having stables below and a 
granary, or hayloft above. 

The road now lies along the Schapbachthal, for about 
four miles. Then the Seebach is seen on the left, rushing 
down from the Wildsee. A mile further on the Burgbach 
brings floating timber down to the Wolfach, and in wet 
weather forms a small waterfall. 



go THE BLACK FOREST. 

Passing under some immense granite rocks on the right, 
Klosterle is next reached. Here, on a portion of the site 
of the ancient Benedictine Priory of St. George, dating from 
the 1 2th century, is a church built with materials from the 
ruins of the old castle of Burgbach. Another three-quarters 
of a mile brings the traveller to Rippoldsau . 

Rippoldsau is a handsome watering-place, situated 
about 2000 feet above the sea level, in a charming and 
densely-wooded valley, protected from the north winds by 
the Kniebis. It is the most frequented of the Kniebis Baths, 
and to the visitor coming from Wolfach, as he emerges from 
the Forest, the scenes of watering-place gaiety break upon 
him with a startling surprise. There are plenty of hotel and 
bath accommodation and table d'hote, billiard rooms, open- 
air concerts, and other similar institutions for the enjoyment 
of visitors. 

The waters from the four springs (Leopold, Joseph, 
Wanzel, and the Baths) contain sulphate of iron, soda, etc., 
and are efficacious in various complaints of the nerves, and 
stomach. They are very powerful, and should only be 
used under medical advice. 800,000 bottles of these waters 
are annually exported, and the chemical ingredients are also 
largely sold as Rippoldsauer-Brunnensah. 

The mineral springs of Rippoldsau were known and 
used by the inmates of the Monastery of St. Georgen as early 
as 1 140 A.D. Buildings for the accommodation of bathers 
were erected at an early date, but were destroyed by the 
Swedes in 1643. After the peace of Osnabruck, a bathing 
establishment was again erected, and ever since the place has 
been annually frequented by considerable numbers. 

Life at Rippoldsau is thus graphically pictured by a cor- 
respondent of the Daily Telegraph, Sept. 4, 1875 • — 

This is Rippoldsau in the middle oi \ive¥oTest,atidthe 



/-/ 



RIPPOLDSAU. 8 1 

water-cure establishment literally stops the way. The fur- 
ther we proceed up the avenue, the more curious does the 
originality of Rippoldsau strike one. There are tables 
placed under the trees, and the ladies are writing their let- 
ters or sketching 3 ladies without their hats, and children, 
playing as they would in a nursery, and all this on the high 
road of the Black Forest. Here we rest, for we can go no 
further. There are courtyards and flower-gardens, a pretty 
miniature chapel up a tiny flight of steps, winding paths up 
the hills on either side, detached buildings, of which the pen- 
sion is composed, and the concentrated essence of watering- 
place life It is one of the most compact homes of plea- 
sure I have ever seen, away from the dust, out of the sun, 
shaded by the trees, cool and quiet, forgotten by locomotives 

and railways altogether They do at Rippoldsau just what 

they do at the thousand and one other water-cures, only they 
do it in a silent and undemonstrative fashion. They get up at 
cockcrow, drink water, and take a constitutional down the 
avenue j they write letters, and doze over books 5 they take 
their breakfast under the trees, and they dine in state in the 
middle of the day; they listen to music as they calmly 
digest 3 they drink more water, take more constitutionals, 
try a little gentle exercise when the sun has gone down 5 
they ride out, drive out, play cribbage, piquet, and double 
dummy, romp with the children, eat again, smoke mode- 
rately, do crochet-work, and probably, as an illustration of 
reckless dissipation, they conclude their revels with the 
schottische, or a minuet by the old people. By ten o'clock 
every light in the place is extinguished, the avenue is de- 
serted, the moon and the fairies take possession of the scene, 
there is a gentle murmur of snoring heard in every corridor, 
and this is the reason why, if not wealthy, at any rate they 
are * healthy and wise ' at Rippoldsau." 



82 THE BLACK FOREST. 

Rippoldsaa to Oppenaa or Allerheiligen, etc. (see p. 130). 

There is no lack of charming and easy walks in the 
neighbourhood of Rippoldsaa. The favourite excursion is 
the descent of the valley (see p. 80) to Klosterle (J mile), 
or the Burgbach rocks and falls (i J miles). Griesbach 
(p. 133), or Freudenstadt (p. 83), can be readily visited. 
The ascent of the HolzAvalder Hohe, 3004 feet, is easy, 
and affords some fine views. The Wolfach, as it flows by 
Rippoldsaa, is formed by the junction of six streams,. viz., 
the Wolfach, Eichelbach, Kamersbach, Rimbach, Schem- 
bach^ and Alsbach 5 visitors often take an interest in tracing 
these to their sources in the recesses of wooded valleys. 
The GlassTVald See, or Wildsee, at the source of the 
Seebach, is another point of attraction 5 also the remarkable 
sandstone rock on the Sommerberg, shaped like a large 
drink ing-glass, and known as the Rasselstein. 

WOLFACH TO FREUDENSTADT, BY THE 

KINZIGTHAL. 

Passing HalhTneil, and the cluster of hamlets known as 
Lehngericht, the town of Schiltach (1194 feet) is reached, 
six miles from Wolfach, in a wild, romantic neighbourhood, 
at the point where the Schiltach flows into the Kinzig. The 
little town possesses a very antique appearance. The church, 
in the Byzantine style, was built in 1840. The ruins of the 
old Castle of Schiltach are seen on the hill. 

From Schiltach there is a picturesque road by the Schilt- 
achthal to Schramberg (see p. 87) ; thence to Hornberg by 
the Schonachthal, io| miles. 

Passing up the Kinzig valley from Schiltach, the Kinzig 
is crossed, and the timber- trading town of Schenkenzell is 
reached. 

In traversing the Kinzig valley, as in some other parts of 



WOLFACH TO FREJJDENSTADT. 83 

the Black Forest, the raft traffic, which is still actively carried 
on, though falling off as other modes of transport are de- 
veloped, is a very noticeable feature. These rafts consist 
frequently of several hundreds of pine stems, fastened 
together by willow twigs. It is a very interesting sight 
to watch these masses of timber (Flossen) wending like 
serpents down the tortuous stream, and, from the mode of 
connection, adapting themselves to all its irregularities. At 
the head of the raft a strong, clever raftsman guides its 
course by means of a long pole,- in the middle of the raft 
others are similarly occupied, whilst at the end, where there 
is the greatest weight of poles, stands a steersman directing 
the hinder portion of the huge monster. Of course, the 
whole concern not unfrequently sticks fast, tasking the skill 
and energy of the conductors to get it free again. 

From Schenkenzell there are two routes to Freudenstadt, 
one through the romantic Reinerzau, by Fbrmthal, and over 
the Berneck, and the direct road, which proceeds up the 
Kinzigthal, crosses the Wurtemberg frontier, and passes 
Alpirsbach. 

Alpirsbach. (pop. 2000) has some interesting ruins of 
an old Benedictine monastery and church. There are cobalt 
mines in the neighbourhood. Thence to Freudenstadt by 
the Ehlenbogenthal is loi miles. 

Freudenstadt (pop. 4200) is situated on the right 
bank of the Forbach, at an altitude of 2470 feet. It was 
built as an asylum for Protestant refugees by Duke Frederick 
of Wurtemberg, about the year 1600. It has been two or 
three times destroyed and rebuilt. The 17th century fortifi- 
cations, commenced by Duke Eberhard, are still unfinished. 
The church is of curious construction, the nave for the males 
being at right angles to that for the females 5 so that whilst 
all can see the pulpit, the two se^'es c-wxcvaX. Vck'^'^;^ '^'5^^:i<js^ 



84 THE BX-ACK FOREST. 

Other. The font (Romanesque) and the well-carved choir- 
stalls are worthy of notice 5 also the galleries, coeval with 
the first foundation of the town. 

Freudenstadt to Baden by the Murgthal (see p. iij). 

Freudenstadt to Achem (see p. 129, et seq.) 

Freudenstadt to Oppenau (see p. 133). 

There is a road from Freudenstadt by Dornstetten to 
Horh on the Upper Neckar Railway 5 or by Dornstetten, 
MerTidgenweiler, Pfalzgrqfenweiler^ and Alstensteig, to Na- 
gOld (p. 124). 

From Freudenstadt to the summit of the Kniebis (p. 
134), a hours. 

HAUSACH TO HORNBERG. 

(Black Forest Railway.) 

The railway now traverses the romantic valley of the 
Gutach. The Gutach river, frequently seen between Hau- 
sach and Triberg, rises near St. Georgen, on the western slope 
of a mountain, from whose eastern declivity the Brigach 
(p. 92) runs down to Donaueschingen, to unite in forming 
the Danube. The scenery in the Gutach Valley is very mag- 
nificent ; the peculiar construction of the houses will attract 
the tourtst's notice. 

Just before entering the Gutach Valley, behind Hausach, 
one of the many so-called " Polterplatze " is to be seen, 
where thousands of stems of trees, many of them over a 
hundred feet in length, are heaped up ready for export. The 
name, Polterplatz, is derived from gepolter^ which expresses 
the clattering noise made in moving the large quantities of 
timber and making up the rafts. 

At the Biihlerstein, according to an ancient legend, a 
silver church once stood. 

At Gutach (5 miJes from Hausach'j is the inn, Zum 



HAUSACH TO HORNBERG. 85 

LoweUj 2L favourite meeting-place on Sundays for many of 
the inhabitants of Hausach, Romberg, and all the district 
round. 

From Gutach, a road to the right leads, in 4 hours, to 
Elzach (see p. 151). 

The costumes of the Gutach Valley, which are very 
original and curious, are, of course, best witnessed on Sun- 
days and holidays, or at weddings. The women adorn 
themselves with broad straw hats, trimmed with roses of 
worsted — mostly black in the case of married women, and 
red in that of single ones. Under the hat is a cap, trimmed 
with broad black tulle. A blue or scarlet neckerchief, a 
black jacket lined with red, a blue or black bodice, with cross 
laces of coloured silk, black petticoats, and blue stockings, are 
mostly worn. The men in general have long black coats, 
lined with red. 

On approaching Homberg, there is a good view, from the 
viaduct, of the town, outspread below. 

HORNBERG. 

Hotel Baren -, omnibuses meet all trains. There is a 

Dependance for those wishing to live en pension for 

a time. The proprietor of the hotel, Mr. Bau- 

mann, and his son, both speak English. A new 

building, with baths, is in course of erection. Trout 

fishing can be enjoyed close at hand. At the foot 

of the Castle hill is a large garden belonging to the 

hotel. 

Homberg, at the foot of the principal Black Forest chain, 

is picturesquely situated in a narrow verdant valley, on 

both sides of the Gutach, near its junction with the Rei- 

chenbach. The stream is well stocked with trout. There 

are several factories and a large ^oXXet'^ . X\^\\.q>\% '^^xi^^ 



86 1^£ BLACK FOREST. 

make a point of visiting the manufactory of Mr. Paul Mann- 
hardt, where the wood carvings for clocks sold in the Exhibi- 
tion at Triberg and elsewhere, are prepared. It is interesting 
to watch the various processes employed, and purchases may 
be made at a cheap rate. 

* An ascent should be made to the ruins of the castle, 
which dominates the valley from a steep hill. This strong- 
hold, like the town itself, is very ancient j both were founded 
in very early times by the Homberg family j but the oldest . 
record dates from 1191. The French, under Villars, took 
the castle in 1 703 5 but it was soon wrested from them by the 
courage and valour of the surrounding peasantry. At one 
point of the hill there is a magnificent view of four valleys, 
the finest of them being the Gutach. (The walk hence to 
Gutach is very beautiful, and takes about an hour.) At the 
Castle a restaurant will be found. The ascent of the tower 
is charged 2opf. The excursion to the castle is a very short 
and pleasant one, easy, and expeditious j for those who are 
unable or disinclined to walk, there is a carriage road. 



HORNBERG TO 8CHRAMBERG AND THE 

BERNECK VALLEY. 

The excursion from Hornberg to Schramberg, and into 
the picturesque Berneck Valley, can be accomplished by 
carriage in a single day. In that case one may drive back 
from Thennenbronn, at the upper end of the Berneck, 
through the Reichenbach Valley. Those wishing to return 
to Homberg by St. G^orgen, Sommerau, and Triberg, will 
leave the Berneck Valley at its upper end, and pass by 
Bachenberg to the railway station of Peterzell-Konigsfeld, or 
w/'JJ go as far as Thennenbronn, and then over the Brogen 
fy^ Langen-schiltach, to the station oi ^l. Geot^wv, 



HORNBERG TO SCHRAMBERG. gj 

The road from Hornberg to Schramberg (3^ hours), 
passes under the railway viaduct, and up the Schonachthal. 
At Fdhrenhuhl, the Wurtemberg frontier is crossed. From 
Lauterhach to Schramberg, the route is by the wild and 
romantic shores of the trout- abounding Lauterbach river. 

Schramberg (pop. 4000) is a thriving little town, with 
considerable manufactures of clocks, cloth, paper, and other 
products 5 also some potteries and ironworks. Raft-building 
is actively carried on on the Schiltach. There are some 
mineral springs of local repute. 

The town is pleasantly situated in the narrow, deep 
valley of the Schiltach, and overlooked by the ruins of the 
old Castle of Schramberg, now called Nippenburg. 
This edifice was once the seat of the Counts of Schramberg ; 
but they dying out at an early date, their castle passed into 
the hands of the Nippenburg family. It was burnt by the 
French in 1689. There is a new Church, with some 
good paintings, in the town. The new country seat of 
Count Bissingen, with well-laid-out gardens, is in the vici- 
nity. The ruins of the Schilteck Castle are in the Schiltach 
Valley, hidden by large pines, and covered with wild under- 
growth. 

The road from Schramberg up the Berneck Valley, to 
Thennenbronn, is a very interesting one. The Schiltach, 
abounding in trout, runs along the valley : and formerly 
several castles frowned from the rocks on either side. The 
magnificent scenery of this valley, though at present little 
known to English travellers, is, in fact, superior to that round 
Triberg. 

The ruins of the Castle of Falkenstein are seen about a 
quarter of an hour after leaving Schramberg. A small 
chapel to the left, on entering the picturesque Berneck Valley, 
contains a good carved altar-piece — ^tlve Ewtocah\s\s?a.t cvi q»v«. 



88 THE BLACK FOREST. 

Lord (14.75), ^^^ ^® family vault of the Counts Bissingen- 
Nippenburg. 

Further along the road, ruins of the Castles of Beraeck 
and Altenburg are seen on the left, and of Ramstein on 
the right ; but nothing remains of either of the above but a 
few fragments, half-hidden amongst the trees and bushes. 

Thennenbronn has two inns — ^the Lowe, frequented 
by Protestants ; and the Krone, by Catholics. Here (or at 
Schramberg) guides must be hired for either of the three 
following routes : — 

Thennenbronn to Konigsf eld- Pete rzell, on the Black 
Forest Railway. 

Thennenbronn, over the Brogen, to St. Georgen. 

Thennenbronn, by the Benzebene, to Oberreichenbach, 
on the old Hornberg-Villingen highway. 

HORNBERG TO TRIBERG, 

The railway journey between these two places is very 
fine, but all who are fond of walking and enjoying beautifully 
wooded scenery, are strongly recommended to register their 
luggage through to Triberg, leave the train at Hornberg, and 
walk up the . 

VALLEY OF THE NIEDERWAS8ER 

to Triberg. It is a lovely valley, and at once realizes the 
Black Forest of the old romances — a rocky wilderness with 
the fantastic trunks of forest giants, covered with moss and 
lichen, a profusion of bright underwood, contrasting with the 
sombre aspect of the pines -, and a road winding in and out 
amongst mountains and hill, such as you find sometimes in 
the neighbourhood of the Alps. Railways do not generally 
ac/d to the interest or beauty of rural g\eivs axvd romantic 



HORNBERG TO TRIBERG.- 80 

valleys, but the roadway from Homberor to Triberg may be 
taken as an esceptiony and no one can pass through the 
valley without being deeply interested in the line of railway 
winding in and out, zigzag after zigzag, more daring in some 
respects than the railway over the Appenines, and through 
scenery not less beautiful. 

Niederwasser is reached by the pedestrian in about half 
an hour, and from this place, if so minded, he may climb 
in 1 1 hours, to the top of the Carlstein, where a column was 
set up by Duke Charles to mark the limits of Fiirstenberg, 
Wurtemberg, and Austria. Threading the beautiful detile 
known as the ** Kleine Holle," a wider part of the valley is 
reached at Kreuzbrucke. Here the road to St. Georgen is 
passed on the left, and the road to the right soon brings the 
visitor to Triberg. 

TRIBERG. 

Hotel LOwc. The Proprietor, Mr. Furtwangler, speaks 
French, the head waiter, English. The hotel has a 
good exterior and comfortable accommodation. A 
store is attached where almost everything may be pur- 
chased, including photographs at a cheap rate. 
Black Forest Hotel. This is a new and exceedingly 
comfortable hotel, situated close to the waterfall, and 
commanding beautiful views. 
The Railway Station is about twenty minutes* walk from 

the town, but omnibuses meet each train. 
The town (pop. 2400) is nearly 2000 feet above the sea 
level, and consists of one long street, with good shops, termi- 
nating in a road leading to the waterfall. After the fire of 
1826, the place was in great part rebuilt. It is a genuine 
mountain town, hemmed in by the three richly wooded 
mountains from which it derives \\.s TL^\»ft,\2cNa'^^l^'^sssNss- 



QO THE BLACK FOREST. 

berg on the west, the Kapellenberg on the east, and the 
Kroneckberg on the north. 

Triberg is the chief depot of the clock and watch trade, 
there is also a famous straw hat manufactory here, with 
some other large factories and ironworks. It is quite custo- 
mary to see the peasants one meets on the mountain paths 
diligently plaiting straw as they pass along. The Exhibi- 
tion of Black Forest Industries (open daily) is well worth 
a visit. From time to time its contents are disposed of 
by lottery. Clocks may be purchased here to advantage 
(p. 20). 

Perhaps the original customs and costumes of the 
Schwarzwald are nowhere better preserved than in the neigh- 
bourhood of Triberg. On Saturday (market day) there is 
to be seen the most curious assemblage of country folk to be 
met with in any part of the Black Forest. The native cos- 
tumes are extremely quaint and curious j the tall yellow 
hats of the women being particularly conspicuous. 

The waterfall is the chief attraction of Triberg. The 
Fallenbach leaps do'WTi 500 feet in seven distinct falls caused 
by protruding granite rocks. The setting of the falls is an 
immense natural fernery, enclosed by a dark forest of pines. 
There are several points of view from which these beautiful 
cascades can be surveyed in detail. The highest bridge over 
the falls is reached in twenty minutes from the hotel -, the 
foot of the falls can be reached in half that time. The 
valley or gorge in which the falls are situated is very beautiful, 
overlooking the town to the valleys and hills beyond. There 
are many delightful walks in the immediate neighbourhood. 

Various legends are told of Triberg and the surrounding 

forests. Some of these refer to immense treasures said to 

h^ve been hidden under the rocks. So lately as 1867, an 

attempt to discover these treasures by tVie eX^ o\ c:oTi.%^c:x^ted 



TRIBERG TO VILLINGEN. OI 

candles, etc., is said to have been* made. No doubt the 
newly -opened railway will prove the real treasure of Triberg, 
and extinguish the memory of that which its inhabitants 
have so long sought after. 

The chief excursions in the neighbourhood of Triberg 
are to the Wallf ahrtskapelle, i hour -, to the Hirzwald Kes- 
selberg li hours ; up the Hohnenberg ; down into the Gutach 
Valley 3 up into the Nussbach Valley j to Gremmelsbach 
and on to Althornberg 3 to St. Georgen (see below), by the 
picturesque road (2 hours) and back by Galgen, Hirzwald, 
etc. 5 to Schonach (see p. 150) i hour ; to Martinskapelle (see 
P» ^50) 3 liours 3 Schauli, 3 hours. There is good postal 
diligence communication with Schonwald, Furtwangen, 
Vohrenbach, Gutenbach, Waldkirch and Freiburg. 

Triberg to Furtwangen, Waldkirch and Freiburg (see 

P- H9)- 

TRIBERG TO VILLINGEN. 

Leaving Triberg by Railway there is for a few miles a 
continuance of tunnels and railway engineering difficulties 5 
the views are exquisite both from the right and left as the 
journey proceeds. 

Sommerau (2800 feet) is the highest point on the 
whole line 5 being the summit of the watershed between 
the Rhine and Danube, The railway descends, running 

parallel to the road to, St. Georgen. 

* 

ST. GEORGEN. 

(Hotel Hirsch). 

St. Georgen is situate, on a hill to the left, about ten 
minutes from the station. It is an old town tracing back its 
right to hold fairs to the time of the Emperor Maximilian. 
There was formerly a Benedktme ^c«\"a&\Rsri \ss.\fc^'5s»A. \.^ 



02 THE BLACIC FOREST. 

have been foanded at the end of the nth century. For 
resistance to the Reformation, the monks were turned adrift 
and the monastery burnt in 1633. It was afterwards 
restored but again suppressed in stormy times^ and was 
finally closed in 1806. 

St. Greorgen now contains a population of about 1800. 
It has several large watch and clock and straw hat manu- 
factories. There was a great fire here in 1865, but all traces 
of the damage are now removed, the destroyed church and 
houses having been rebuilt. In the Protestant Church 
is a 14th century altar, brought from the suppressed abbey 
above referred to. 

Several interesting excursions can be made in the neigh- 
bourhood of St. Georgen ; the views from the surrounding 
mountains are very fine. The source of the Brigach, which 
flows down to Donaueschingen to unite with the Breg in 
forming the Danube, is about four miles west of St. Georgen. 

Peterxell-Konigsfeld is the next station. The town of 
Peterzell contains an interesting little church, founded in the 
reign of Charlemagne by the monks of Reichenau, and said 
to have been the first Christian Church erected in this neigh- 
bourhood. Konigsfeld (pop. 600) has an inn, the Gast- 
haus zu Briidergemeinde, at which '' singing, card-playing, 
and too loud merriment," are forbidden by the rules of the 
house. In this locality are Stockburg (with ruins of an old 
castle) and Monchweiler. 

After leaving Peterzell station, two charming valleys are 
passed, stretching away to the left. A thick forest is entered, 
and soon the station is reached at Unter-Kirnach. 

Unter-Kirnach is the place where orchestrions were 
first manufactured. Straw- plaiting is a chief branch of 
industry, aboQt Joo women being engaged in it. Up in the 
forest, near where the Kernbach 3oinslVie1iT\^2ic\v,^SL^.ti.^\^\iX. 



VILLINGEN. Q^ 

roadway, showing the usual carriage-wheel ruts, can be seen. 
This is undoubtedly the ancient Roman road, connecting 
Adaras Flauii (Rottweil), Brigohanne (Braunlingen and Hau- 
fingen) with the Rhine Valley. Twenty minutes further 
up the Keinach Valley, the ruins of the Castle of Kirneck 
may be seen, but there is no view from them. The Kirneck 
family appear in history from the 13 th to the 15th cen- 
turies. 

From Unter-Kirnach there is a diligence route by 
Vohrenbach (Hotel Kreuz) to Furtwangen (p. 150). 

Passing several manufactories by the river to the right, 
and a large plain to the left, the station at Villingen is next 
reached. 

VILLINGEN. 

Hotel Blume (Poste). 

This is a town of about 4J00 inhabitants, with several 
manufactories of cloth, wire, and clocks. It is an ancient 
place, and its gates, and towers, and wall still tell a tale of 
the old days, when might was right. Villingen is first heard 
of as a village in the Chronicles of Ludwig the Pious, a.d. 
817, though the site has been a little altered since that time. 
In 1271 a great fire did much damage to the place 5 but it 
seems still to have increased in size and importance. It 
belonged to Austria from 1326 to 1803, having in the mean- 
time been sacked by the French in 1 744. 

There are several objects of interest in Villingen. The 
old Gothic Miinsterkirche, with two towers (i jth cen- 
tury), is conspicuous from the station. There are other 
interesting churches in the town ; one of them has a gallery 
round the outside. The Church of St. John has some 
portions of an earlier date than its rebuilding by a Count 
of Fiirstenberg, after a fire in the 13th century 3 and also 



64 THE BLACK FOREST. 

a fine pulpit, with 15th century sculpture. St. Michael's 
has a 15th century tower, and there is an nth centurj' 
tower attached to the modern church in the Old Town. 
By the Cemetery is a restored tower of Roman origin, 
the handsome Alstadtthurm 5 the old towers of the 
Stadthor^ representation of the so-called Romeias 
man, on a high tower, with a long inscription. The sub- 
ject seems to have been a sort of Samson, who freed himself 
from captivity. The Nepomuk monument. The 
Benedictine Monastery (with a church), now the 
town school. The Orphan Asylum. 

The most interesting building as regards its contents is, 
perhaps, the Rathhaus. It contains several curious 
mediaeval rooms, and some gloomy old-world dungeons, cele- 
brated as having been a good deal used for the confinement 
of witches. In the various rooms are seen coats of arms, 
wood-carvings, instruments of torture, terra-cotta work by 
Hans Kraut, etc. 

The wonderful costume of the country folk from the 
neighbourhood of Villingen will attract the visitor's atten- 
tion. The hair of the women is drawn up into a knot at 
the top of the head, and adorned with gold embroidery, and 
long, wide black strings 5 they wear short dresses, beneath 
which the red stockings and buckled shoes are very con- 
spicuous. 

Villingen is the junction with the Wurtemberg Ober- 
Neckarthal Railway to Rottwiel, from whence either Carls - 
ruhe or Stuttgart can be reached. 

Villingen to Furtwangen and Waldkirch (see p. 151). 

VILLINGEN TO DONAUESCHINQEN. 

Leaving Villingen, the church, with crowded cemetery, 
is seen to the left. The country round is fertile, and 



DONAUESCHINGEN. gr 

contains several unimportant rains, but is not very inte- 
resting. 

The railway follows the left bank of the Brigach river, 
which is crossed at Marhach. Here the line to Rottwiel 
diverges, passing Schwenningen and Dieslingen, in the 
Neckar Valley. 

A large fertile plain is seen on the right, and presently 
Klengen is reached, amidst the tame but pleasant scenery of 
the Brigach Valley. Grunigen is the next station, and then 
Donaues chin gen . 

DONAUESCHINGEN. 

Hotel Schiitzen. Proprietor, Mr. Baurie, who speaks 
English fluently. This is a comfortable, well-appointed 
Hotel, a short distance from the railway, and close to 
the Park and the Church. 

Donaueschingen (pop. 3000) is 29 miles east by south of 
Freiburg, at the confluence of the Brigach and Brege. It is 
a place of some trading importance, and a capital temporary 
head-quarters at which to break a journey. 

The first historical mention of Donaueschingen, or Tun6- 
eschingen, as it was then called, is in 1292, and it is two or 
three times heard of during the succeeding century. It fre- 
quently changed owners. The widow Barbara, of Habs- 
burg, sold it, with other possessions, in May, 1488, to the 
Counts of Furstenberg, who improved the place very much. 
In 1770, as an inscription in the Inn Zum Lamb testifies, 
Marie Antoinette passed through Donaueschingen on her 
way to Paris. In 1803 the Confederacy of the Rhine placed 
the greater part of the Fiirstenberg territory, under the 
Government of the Grand Duchy of Baden. 

The Palace of the Princes of Fiirstenberg is a plain 



g5 THE BLACK FOREST. 

edifice of modern character, containing a Library and 
Museum, etc., of great interest. • 

The Library contains an invaluable collection of early 
German MSS. 5 amongst others, the third best MS. extant 
of the celebrated Niebelungenlied. Visitors should not fail 
to notice the curious old Strangers' Book. A much older 
volume of this kind was lost in the Thirty Years* War. The 
first Strangers' Book was commenced in i j6o, in the time of 
Count Henry of Furstenberg, who was the first of his line 
to make this place a family residence. In the book referred 
to were the names of all visitors to the source of the' Danube, 
who, in accordance with an ancient mediaeval custom, had 
leaped into the spring, and poured a cup of wine into it as 
an oblation. 

The Museum contains a good many examples of early 
German art. The pictures are not numbered, and the cata- 
logue is in German only. There are some good pictures by 
yohann Grilnn, The collections of Engravings, Medals, and 
Armoury are of great interest. 

The Park and Grounds of the Palace are very beauti- 
ful, and celebrated as containing the alleged Source of the 
Danube, the river " whose waves have witnessed the march 
of Attila, of Charlemagne, of Gustavus Adolphus, and 
Napoleon 5 whose shores have echoed the blast of the Roman 
trumpet, the hymn of the Pilgrim of the Cross, and the wild 
hallos of the sons of Islam j whose name is equally dear to 
history and to faith." The source consists of a spring of 
clear, bright water, falling into a basin, the overflow of which 
is conducted underground to the Brigach.. The popular 
rhyme says — 

" Brigach und Brege 

Bringen die Donau zu wege.** 

^" The Brigach and Brege set the Danube on its way ") 



DON AUESCHINGEN. G 7 

But then it is asserted that both Brigach and Brege are 
occasionally dried up, whereas the spring in the Fiirsten- 
berg park is perennial, and is therefore claimed as the true 
source of the Danube, or Donau. Hence the name of the 
town. A new basin, with a group of allegorical statuary, is 
in course of construction. 

The Park and Gardens contain many pleasant walks and 
various attractions. There are a Zoological Garden, and a 
Conservatory of Southern Exotics. On the lake are seen 
various kinds of water-fowls, some of the swans are white, 
with black necks. On one island there is a bronze statue of 
the last Prince 3 on another, reached by a bridge, is a bust of 
Lessing. In the centre of a fountain basin, on a bank over- 
looking the lake, is a graceful Allegorical Group, by 
Xavier Reich, representing the Donau, Brigach, and Brege. 
The Prince's Riding School and stud are allowed to be in- 
spected by visitors. 

The church of Donaueschingen, with two towers, is a 
handsome modern building, but presenting nothing espe- 
cially worthy of notice. There are some mineral springs 
which are well utilized. The Baths are excellent j there 
is good accommodation for swimmings and saline baths, 
vapour baths, or pine baths, are constantly in readiness during 
the season — from May to September. The town also con- 
tains some linen factories, a theatre, and a gymnasium. 

There is a road from Donaueschingen by Hiifingen, 
Blumhergy and the Randa Pass to Neuhaus near SchafF- 
hausen. 

A diligence leaves Donaueschingen daily at nine o'clock 
for Freiburg via Neustadt, the Titi See, the Star, and the 
celebrated Hollenthal, one of the finest parts of the Black 
Forest. It arrives at Freiburg between 4.0 and 5.0. 

Another route is by Bregenbach and Hammereisenbacb 

1 



Qg THE BLACK FOREST. 

to Neustadt, the junction of the diligence routes for Triberg 
and Freiburg. 

Easy excursions can be made from Donaueschingen to 
Hiifingen (see p. 164}, Braunlingen, Walterdingen, and the 
Brege Valley as far as Hammereisenbach (with ruins of 
castles of Lindelstein and Neu-Fiirstenberg), Herzogen- 
weiler, Durrheim, (with good saline baths, and salt mines, 
whence over 12,000 tons are annually exported), Niedingen 
(see below), Schwenningen, in the Neckar Valley, Ftlrsten- 
berg and Wartenberg (see below). 

DONAUESCHINGEN TO ENGEN. 

The railway now traverses the verdant valley of the 
Danube. The forest scenery is very pretty, though present- 
ing nothing particularly striking. 

Pfohren is a prosperous village, pleasantly situated. 
Here are the remains of an old building in the water, known 
as the " Entenschloss " or Duck*s Palace. 

Niedingen, Here was once an old residence of the Car- 
lovingian family, at which Charlemagne died. An ancient 
convent dating from 1276, was destroyed by fire in 1850. 
The Gruftkirctie, or cemetery chapel, was re-erected by 
Diehold; the building is a small imitation of St. Peter's at 
Rome. It contains some good fresco paintings by Schahet 
of Munich, etc., and the vault of the Ftirstenberg family. 
Visitors are allowed to go down into the crypt. This chapel 
is worth a visit from Donaueschingen, either by rail, or on 
foot in about i^ hours. 

Gutmadingen is next passed. Soon after a conical basaltic 
hill is seen to the right, crowned by the ruins of the 
Castle of Wartenberg, where the Counts of that name once 
dwelt. 

Gchingen, (pop. 1200) the ancient Gisinga, and Hint- 



DONAUESCHINGEN TO SINGEN. qq 

schingen are the next stations. Just before reaching Immen- 
dingen, near the village of Zimmern, is a valley with the 
buildings of the Amterhausen Monastery. This religious 
house was founded in the 12th century as a branch of the St. 
Georgen establishment (p. 91). 

Immendingen is the junction of the Black Forest 
Railway with the Tuttlingen-Rottweil- Stuttgart line. 

[Tourists wishing to visit the beautiful Danube Valley by 
way of Beuron to Sigmaringen (p. in), can go from Immen- 
dingen by the Wurtemberg line toTuttlingen, where carriages 
can be hired for the remainder of the journey. A postal 
diligence leaves Tuttlingen for Beuron every morning at about 
7.0 a.m., returning from the latter place at about 1.0 p.m.] 

At Immendingen the Danube Valley is left, and that of 
the Aach (which flows into Lake Constance at Radolfzell) 
is entered. 

The next stations passed are Hattingen, Thalmuhle, and 



Engen, 



ENGEN AND THE HOHGAU. 



Engen, including the suburb of Altdorf has a population 
of 2000. It is one of the chief towns of the picturesque 
Hohgau district, so full of romantic old castles j a district 
known in history since the 8th century, as the Pagus 
Hegauensis, the Hohgau, the Hegow, etc. The territory 
round Engen was formerly the property of the Hohenhowen 
family, but passed into the hands of the Counts of Fiirsten- 
berg in 1693. The Dominican Monastery was founded in 
1333. Engen was besieged in vain by the Swiss in 1499, 
taken, and the castle burnt by the Swedes, in 1640, and 
plundered and partly burnt by the Swiss in 1696, and again 
in 1700. 

On an eminence stands the Castle oi ^^\^^\i^&\\N5^^ 



lOO HE BLACK FOREST. 

belonging to the Fiirstenberg family. Engen possesses a 
printing establishment, several breweries, tanneries, and an 
organ factory. The old parish church is in the Byzantine 
style of architecture. A former Capuchin monastery has 
been converted into a hospital and a nunnery into a 
school. 

Numerous excursions can be made from Engen. The 
ruins of Stattener Schlossle (Neuhowen) a castle 
destroyed by the Bavarians in the Thirty Years* War, afford 
a very fine view. They are situated between Engen and 
Greisingen, about li hours from either. This Castle is the 
property of the Fiirstenbergs, and the tower has been restored. 
The keys are to be obtained at the Stern Inn in Engen, or at 
the Post in Geisingen. It is usual to drive from Engen on 
the Greisingen road for about an hour, until a shady path 
leading to the ruins is reached, the carriage waiting at the 
village of Stetten. The return journey should be by way of 
Zimmerholz. 

On the Hohenhowen (2782 feet) is another Castle 
also destroyed by the Bavarians in 1639. Partly by the 
high road to Anselfingen, and partly by a footpath through 
the Forest, the Tassbriichen, on the summit of the mountain, 
is reached. From here there is a newly-made pathway lead- 
ing to the castle, from which a magnificent view may be 
obtained. 

Langenstein Castle is picturesquely situated, and 
belongs to a family of the same name. The tower dates 
from the nth century. The Castle is now being restored. 

Aach is a small town near the source of the river Aach 
which begins at once to drive the wheels of mills and fac- 
tories. Near Aach are the large paper mills of Herr Briihl- 
xneyer^ and the spinning and weaving works of Tem Brink in 
VoIJcertshausen, From Volkertshauseti \iva telwcw to Engen 



DONAUESCHINGEN TO SINGEN. iqi 

can be effected by way of Schlatt and Hohenkrahen (see 
below), or by Beuren and Friedingen. 

Of the remaining attractions of the district round Engen, 
we must briefly mention the ruins of the Castle of Hohen- 
stofFeln j the Thalmiihle j the Kriegerthal, passing Emmin- 
gen, Lipplingen, with site of battle-field and monument to a 
slain Count Fiirstenberg ; the rocky Wasserburg Valley with 
ruins of castle -, the Schiinnenberg with a beautiful view 5 
the pilgrimage church of Schenkenberg ; Eckartsbrunn, near 
which (15 minutes) is the fine ruin of Tudoburg, built on 
old Roman foundations. The return from Tudoburg can be 
effected by Eigeltingen, Langenstein (see above), and Aach 
(see above). 

ENGEN TO SINQEN. 

The next stations passed after leaving Engen are Wels' 
chingen at the foot of the Hohenhowen (see p. 100) and 
Miihlhatisen. 

In the church at Muhlhausen is an altar-piece repre- 
senting St. Ursula with her 11,000 virgins. It was taken 
from the cloisters on the Magdeberg. There are good views 
from the Magdeberg (above the town), once a possession 
of the Reichenau monastery. According to old legends, the 
original cloister and pilgrimage chapel at this spot were 
founded by St. Ursula. 

To the right of Miihlhausen, the volcanic cone of 
Hohenkrahen (21 12 feet) overtops the Castle of the same 
name. The original founders of this castle are unknown -, 
but it subsequently became a notorious nest of robber 
knights ; it was accordingly besieged in 1470, and burnt to 
the ground. It was rebuilt, and given, in 1534, to Hans 
von Friedingen. In 1540 it was in the hands of the so- 
called " Ziiricher Bocke," Swiss mfctc^Tvaxvesi^ ^\ V«R.\asj»Rfc^, 



102 THE BLACK FOREST. 

eager for a share in all possible adventures in those unsettled 
days. It was finally destroyed in 1634. 

Singeil is a small town of about i joo inhabitants, pre- 
senting in itself little to attract the attention of the tourist. 
It is at the junction of the Black Forest Railway with the 
line from Schaffhausen to Constance, and the traveller who 
may be detained here to wait for a train, cannot employ the 
interval better than in visiting the celebrated ruins of the 
Hohentwiel. The route is past the Church, with its 
crowded cemetery, and for a short distance up the town on 
the right, turning off by the sign-post on the left, from whence 
a steep path conducts to the rains. 

The Hohentwiel Castle stands on a basaltic rock (2240 
feet). It belongs to Wurtemberg, though in the Bavarian 
territory. Half-way up is a Gasthaus, where tickets for the 
tower (i2kr.) can be obtained. The principal gate bears the 
arms of Wiederhold, and an inscription referring to his 
brave and successful defence of the fortress during the Thirty 
Years' War. Here also are the ruins of the cloister founded 
by Countess Hadwig. Opposite are the walls of a church, 
built by Wiederhold during the siege of the place. On the 
summit of the neighbouring tower is the celebrated Belve- 
dere, from which there is one of the finest views in the 
Black Forest, including the Tyrolese and Swiss Alps, as far 
as Mont Blanc. 

Hohentwiel is one of the oldest castles in Oberschwaben 
(Upper Suabia). It shows no ti^aces of Roman' architecture, 
but from the numerous indications of Roman settlements in 
the neighbourhood, it is judged probable that so important a 
position was fortified even at that early date. It was 
anciently known as Duellium, and afterwards as Twiel. 
The first historic record of the place is in the 9th century. 
T'be learned Dowager Hadwig, oi Ba\2Lna,\veV^cowi\.Vi^Te, 



SINGEN TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. 103 

and built the cloister of St. Gregory, alluded to above. In 
1080, we find Twiel in possession of the Viceroy, Rudolph 
of Suabia. It was taken and temporarily destroyed in 1357 
by Count Eberhard of Wurtemberg, and has ever since re- 
mained in possession of the princes of that line. During the 
Thirty Years* War, the defence of the fortress, which had been 
restored, was entrusted by Eberhard III. to Conrad Wieder- 
hold. In 1650, after an arduous defence of fifteen years, 
Wiederhold resigned back the Castle to the Duke of Wur- 
temberg, and was well rewarded for his success. In 1800, 
the Castle was besieged by the French, and capitulated 
without a struggle. It was then, by orders of the French 
Greneral Vandamme, made a complete ruin. For their share 
in this transaction, all the oflicers of the garrison, except one, 
who^ had opposed the surrender, were cashiered. There is 
now some talk of restoring Hohentwiel as a frontier fortress 
of the German Empire. 

From Singen, the tourist, if so minded, can go by road to 
Stein, and there take the new railway, or embark on a steamer, 
either for Scha£Ehausen or Constance. 

Singen to Constance, by rail (see p. 104). 

SINGEN TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. 

The stations passed on this line are Gottmadingen, 
Thayingen, on the Riber, at the foot of the Buchberg ; 
and Herhlingen (with castle of the same name on an 
eminence). 

Before reaching Thayingen, the Swiss frontier is crossed. 
About ten minutes* walk from Thayingen Station, close to 
the railway, is a " Bone Cavern,*' discovered in 1874, con- 
taining arms and tools, and the remains of bones and teeth 
of various animals^ some oi thew\\ieXoTv^xv^V^ ^^\\NKX.'s^^5b&^, 



10^ THE BLACK FOREST. 

There were no traces of copper, iron^ or any other metal 
found here, no traces even of ground or sharpened stone -, 
bat only split flint There were no bones of oxen^ sheep, 
goats^ tame horses, or pigs; but abundant remains of rein- 
deer, bears, small wild horses, elks, bisons, and thick- 
skinned mammoths. The inhabitants would seem to have 
lived chiefly on alpenfowl and various species of foxes. 

Schaffhausen (see p. 69). 

Schaffhausen to Basle (see p. 6^). 

Schaflliausen to Constance, by boat (see p. 70). 

SINGEN TO CONSTANCE- 

From Singen the line runs through the Singen Forest to 
Rickebhausen and Bohringen. A view of the Zeller Lake, 
or Untersee, with the island of Reichenau (see p. 113) is 
obtained ; and then the station at Radolfzell is reached, near 
the edge of the lake. 

Radolfzell is a walled and gated town, with a popula- 
tion of 1700, mostly Catholic. The parish church was 
commenced towards the end of the 14th century ; the choir 
was finished in 14365 it has been restored. A cell was 
built here in 834 for the reception of relics of the saints 
Zeno, Synesius, and Theopompus, by Bishop Ratolf, of the 
island of Reichenau. The town has some good specimens 
of houses of the 17th century. 

Radolfzell to Sigmaringen and the Upper Danube Valley 
(seep. no). 

The railway now coasts the north-east shore of the 

Untersee, with stations at Markelfingen^ Allensbach, and 

Reichenau, A sudden curve of the railway reveals Lake 

Constance m sXi its beauty, and the train soon passes over 

the Rhine into the city of Constance. 



CONSTANCE. IO5 

CONSTANCE. 

(Hotel Hecht.) 

The population of Constance was once over 40,000 j it 
is now about 11,000. The town is on the Swiss bank of 
the Rhine, but was, by the Treaty of Pressburg (1805) 
ceded to Baden. 

There is not much in Constance for the mere sightseer j 
it is rich, however, in historical associations. As Geneva is 
the city of Calvin, and Ziirich the city of Zwingli, so Con- 
stance is the city of Huss. 

The House of Huss, in the St. Paulsstrasse, is adorned 
with his ef^gy. The Dominican Monastery of Gott- 
lieben, where he was imprisoned, is on an island near the 
town (see p. 70). The place where he stood to receive the 
sentence of death is pointed out in the MUnster. The 
Kaufhaus, in which the Council met who condemned 
him, may be visited j and the field at Briihl, where the last 
act in the tragedy was performed, is still to be seen j and 
here the visitor, as he stands on the very spot where the stake 
was planted, will be asked to bay an image of the Reformer, 
made from clay taken from the place above which the flames 
crackled. 

It is not necessary here to tell th^ story of Huss again ; 
but as the visitor looks at his prison at Gottlieben, it may 
not be uninteresting to recall one of his dreams, as related 
by D'Aubigne in his " History of the Reformation" : — 

" One night the holy martyr saw in imagination, from 
the depths of his dungeon, the pictures of Christ that he 
had painted on the walls of his oratory, effaced by the Pope 
and his bishops. This vision distressed him 3 but on the 
next day he saw many painters ocexx^va^ *ycl t^sXo^vow^ "^cfiRfc 



j06 THE BLACK FOREST. 

figures in greater number and in brighter colours. As soon 
as their task was ended, the painters, who were surrounded 
by an immense crowd, exclaimed, * Now let the popes and 
bishops come ! They shall never efface .them more ! ' * And 
many people rejoiced in Bethlehem, and I with them,' adds 
John Huss. * Busy yourself with your defence rather than 
with your dreams,* said his faithful friend, the Knight of 
Chlum, to whom he had communicated this vision. * I am 
no dreamer,* replied Huss ; ' but I maintain this for certain, 
that the image of Christ will never be effaced. They have 
wished to deface it, but it shall be painted afresh in all 
hearts by much better preachers than myself. The nation 
that loves Christ will rejoice at this ; and I, awaking from 
among the dead, and rising, so to speak, from my grave, shall 
leap with great joy.'* 

Nor can the visitor walit out to the suburb of Briihl, on 
the Zurich road, where he was burnt at the stake, without 
thinking of the remarkable pun and prophecy he made as he 
was entering the flames, in allusion to his own name, which 
signified in the Bohemian tongue a goose. He said, " Are 
you going to burn a goose ? In one century you will have a 
swan you can neither roast nor boil.** And in one century 
came forth Luther, who had a swan for his arms. 

The Miinster, or Cathedral, was founded 1052, but did 
not assume its present form till the beginning of the i6th 
century. The Gothic tower at the west end was erected dur- 
ingthe years 1850-57. From the platforms round the open- 
work spire a magnificent view is obtained of the town, 
the lake, the valley of the Rhine, and the mountains of the 
Tyrol. The oak dOOrs of the chief entrance are decorated 
with reliefs by Simon Haider (1470), in twenty sections, 
representing scenes in the life of our Lord. 

In the interior observe the sv^le^ti moiioVwJcv ^\lkrs. 



CONSTANCE. 1^7 

which support the nave ; the clioir-stalls, with old carv- 
ings 5 the Tomb of Robert Hallam, Bishop of Salisbury, 
made of English brass. In the nave is a light-coloured stone, 
marking the spot w^here John Huss stood when the 
cruel sentence of death was delivered, July 6, 1415, and 
where he knelt before his accusers, and cried, *' Lord Jesus, 
forgive my enemies ! " It is affirmed that this stone always 
remains dry when those surrounding it are damp. The 
sacristy contains some curious missals, miniatures, plate, 
and other relics. A good collection of stained glass, by 
Fincent, may be seen in the Chapter-room. The Crypt 
below the church is very old, and contains a representation in 
stone of the Holy Sepulchre. The Cloisters, though now 
much dilapidated, exhibit some excellent workmanship. 

The Hall of the Kauf haus is where the Council of 
Constance held its sittings, and condemned Huss and Jerome 
of Prague. Many memorials of the former are preserved 
here in a kind of museum, admission one franc. 

In the Wessenburg-Haus may be seen a good col- 
lection of engravings and pictures. On the Town Hall, 
Stadt'Kanzleif are frescoes illustrating passages in the history 
of Constance. 

The walks in the neighbourhood of Constance, and the 
promenades surrounding the town, are pretty. The pier 
is attractive, on account of the good views it commands. 
There is also a good Sw^imming Bath. 

In the environs of Constance are several very interest- 
ing places 5 among them the Abbey of Kreuzlingen — 
or, rather, the building which once bore that name, for it is 
now an agricultural school. The present structure has been 
erected since the Thirty Years' War, as the former one was 
destroyed during that time. In one of the chapels is a mar- 
vellous piece of wood-carving, adorned ^\\i xs^axs^ \s;»ss^^^^ 



I08 THE BLACK FOREST. 

of miniature figures, the work of a Tyrolese j also an em- 
broidery, adorned with pearls, presented by Pope John XXII. 
on his journeying to Constance in 14 14. 

Mainau, the beautiful seat of the Grand Duke of Baden, 
is situated on a small island, about four miles from Con- 
stance. The island is connected with the mainland by a 
bridge. No pleasanter day's excursion than this can be 
undertaken in the vicinity of Constance. 

Near the iron bridge, erected in 1865, is a crucifix 
dating from 1577. The island is very picturesque ; walls and 
towers of a time long past peep out here and there through 
masses of verdure. The modern palace of the Deutschorden 
offers from its balconies the finest views to be obtained on 
the shores of the Bodensee. The island was given to the 
Knights of the Deutschorden in 1293, that they might keep 
a house there for ever. The Deutschorden was created by 
the Duke Frederick of Suabia at the time of the siege of 
Akkon, in the Crusades. The Swedes attacked the island 
in thirteen boats in 1647, ^^^ plundered it. In 1827 it was 
purchased by Prince Esterhazy, and by the Grand Duke of 
Baden in 1853. The Emperor of Germany stayed here some 
days when paying a visit of inspection to the new Black 
Forest Railway. 

The Field of Briilll is outside the town, on the road 
to Zurich, and possesses the nielancholy interest of having 
been the place where Huss was burnt in 14 15, and Jerome 
of Prague a year after. The spot is marked by a rough 
monument of stones, upon which is an inscription. 

THE LAKE OF CONSTANCE. 

(Latin, Lacus Brigantius, German, Boden See.) 

This spacious reservoir of the Rhine is over forty miles 
in length, and eight in width •, it \s a ^\ot\o\3& ^^^\. oi^^tec 



LAKE OF CONSTANCE. IOq 

in fine weather, but rather turbulent in storm, being elevated . 
about 1300 feet, and not protected by lofty mountain em- 
bankments 5 it is by no means an uncommon thing for 
tourists to suffer from sea-sickness when being rocked on its 
bosom. There are some fine views from it, especially of 
the Appenzell Alps, including the snow-clad Sentis and the 
Vorarlberg Alps. Lake Constance would probably be con- 
sidered very beautiful, were it not in Switzerland 5 but being 
there, it suffers from odious comparisons with its fairer 
neighbours. 

The position held by the lake is curious, as it forms the 
boundary of five different states — viz., Baden, Wurtemberg, 
Bavaria, Austria, and Switzerland, to each of which states a 
portion of the coast belongs. 

For steamers to all parts of the lake, see local time- 
tables. 

Friedriclishafen, nearly opposite Constance, is the 
principal bathing-place on the lake, and the views from here 
are among the finest in the neighbourhood. It is a pleasant 
town, with about 3000 inhabitants. The Schloss is the 
summer residence of the King of Wurtemberg. Friedrich- 
shafen is the terminus of the Stuttgart Railway. 

Lindau, a pretty town at the east end of the lake, is 
the terminus of the Bavarian Railway. 

Bregenz, in the Vorarlberg, is a good starting-point for 
the Tyrol. It is thus sketched by Adelaide Proctor : — 

" Girt round with rugged mountains. 
The ^ir Lake Constance lies 3 
In her blue heart reflected, 

Shine back the starry skies ; 
And, watching each white cloudlet 

Float silently and slow. 
You think a piece of heaven 
Lies on our earth be\ov( \ 



no THE BLACK FOREST. 

Midnight is there ; and silence, 

Enthroned in heaven, looks down 
Upon her own calm mirror. 

Upon a sleeping town ; 
For Bregenz, that quaint city 

Upon the Tyrol shore, 
Has stood above Lake Constance 

A thousand years and more. 

Her battlements and towers. 

From off their rocky steep. 
Have cast their trembling shadows 

For ages on the deep j 
Mountain, and lake, and valley, 

A sacred legend know, 
Of how the town was saved one night. 
Three hundred years ago/*— etc., etc. 

EXCURSION TO THE UPPER DANUBE 

VALLEY. 

The traveller who finds himself at Radolfzell may easily 
undertake an excursion to the beautiful scenery near Sig- 
maringen, in the Valley of the Upper Danube. 

The railway passes along the Stahringen Valley to the 
station at Stahringen, Towering above this village are the 
ruins of Homburg, supposed to have been originally a 
Roman settlement. In 1632 it was taken by a Wurtemberg 
general, and later on by the Austrians. These were driven out, 
and the place burnt, by Wiederhold, the defender of Hohen- 
twiel. The view from the ruin is very fine. Eastward lies 
the Lake of Constance, westward the Zeller Lake and 
island of Reicheirau. 

Leaving Stahringen by rail, the Ueberlingen See is seen 
to the right. Wdhlwies and Nenzingen are next passed. 
From Nenzingen an excursion to the interesting castle of 
Lans^enstein (see p. loi) can be easily made. 



THE UPPER DANUBE VALLEV. j 1 1 

Stockach. (pop. 2000). A town with factories, mills, 
and breweries. On the neighbouring heights Archduke Carl 
routed the army of General Jourdain in 1799. 

From Stockach a short excursion can be made to the old 
Castle of Nellenburg, seen from the railway soon after 
leaving Nenzingen. It was once the seat of the great house 
of Nellenburg, whose territory extended as far south as 
Ziirich, and proportionately in other directions. These 
possessions passed by marriage, in 1398, to the Counts of 
Theugen, who sold them to Austria in 1465. 

The railway proceeds from Stockach by Tizenhausen and 
Muhlingen to Schwakenreuthe, 

From Schwakenreuthe there is a route by Sentenhart and 
Aach Linz to Pfullendorf, 

Pfullendorf (pop. 2500) has a large hospital, well 
worth a visit, said to have been founded in the 13 th century. 
The town was burnt down in 1220, suffered much in the 
Peasants' War and Thirty Years* War, and again in 1798, 
when there was much fighting in this neighbourhood. The 
old Church (Stadtkirche) possesses a fine modern Gothic 
tower, also a good altar-piece. 

Proceeding from Schwakenreuthe, the line next arrives at 
Messkircll, where there is a palace of the Counts of 
Furstenberg. The Pfarrkirche has some interesting monu- 
ments. Near at hand are the castle and village of Rohr- 
dorf. 

The railway next passes MenniJigen, Goggingen, and 
Krauchenwies, where there is a palace of the Prince of Hohen- 
zollern, with a beautiful park. 

Sigmaringen (pop. 3500) is a flourishing town, that 
has much increased of late. It possesses several cotton 
spinning and weaving mills 5 there are two or three good 
churches, a small but pretty theatre, and a *'Haus Nazax€.OaL" 



112 THE BLACK FOREST. 

or Orphan Asylum. The Prinzenpalais, on the Karl- 
platz, contains a good collection of books, and MSS., and 
works of art, and fine gardens in the rear. On the Brenz- 
koferberg is a memorial of the late war. 

The Castle of Sigmaringen is picturesquely situated on 
an eminence overlooking the Danube, and affords a beautiful 
view of the town and neighbourhood. An ancient Roman 
tower forms a part of the edifice. In the Castle there is a 
fine collection of works of art — one of the best of the kind 
in Southern Germany 5 catalogues are to be had in the town. 
The arrangement and decoration of the rooms are very fine. 
There are numerous suites of rooms, containing paintings 
by German, Dutch, Italian, and other old masters, Venetian 
glass, old chandeliers, stoves, etc. Some of the rooms are 
always kept in readiness for visits from the (rerman Emperor, 
or other members of the House of Hohenzollern. There is 
also a Trinkhalle (Pump Room), made out of a cavern. 

Graf Sigmar von Pf ullendorf is said to have built a Castle 
on this site, at the commencement of the 9th century, 
utilizing the remains of some Roman structure. It came 
into the possession of the Hohenzollerns in 1572, was much 
damaged in the Thirty Years' War, plundered by the Swedes, 
passed into the hands of Wurtemberg, and was restored to 
the Hohenzollerns at the Peace of Westphalia. The territory 
became a province of Prussia in 1848. 

Near Sigmaringen, on the right bank of the Danube, is 
Hedingen, formerly a cloister, now a school. It was 
founded as a Dominican nunnery in 1364, became a Fran- 
ciscan monastery in 1623, and was closed in 1814. The 
Church dates from 1680. 

To the north of Sigmaringen lies Gorheim, where, 
till lately, there was a Jesuit rectory, with fifteen fathers. 
The MiJhlberg, or the Josephsberg, can be visited from 



REICHENAU. 1 j 3 

Sigmaringen. A drive should be taken along the Valley 
of the Danube to Beuron. This can be done in one 
day. In the summer, a postal diligence leaves Sigmaringen 
at about 7 a.m. for Beuron, returning thence at about 2 p.m. 
A three hours* drive each way. 

Beuron has a very picturesque neighbourhood, in 
which many pleasant excursions can be made. Between 
Beuron and Wildenburg Castle is the St. Maurus 
Chapel, on one of the finest situations in the Danube 
Valley. The architecture and decorations, both internally 
and externally, are alike good. Inzighofen has a fine 
park and garden, belonging to the palace. The nunnery, 
founded in 1304, was closed in 1803. Through the 

Bitterschliesserthal to Hornstein, with picturesque 
ruins. At Bingen is a church with old German altar- 
pieces. There is a route by the Lauchenthal to Scheer, 
Ennentach, and Mengen. Thence the return to Sigmaringen 
can be effected by railway. At Ennentach, notice the wood- 
work (1506) in the church. 

Beuron to the Black Forest by Tuttlingen and Immen- 
dingen, see p. 99. 

THE ISLAND OF REICHENAU. 

This interesting island may be visited from Constance by 
taking the rail to Reichenau, where only the slow trains stop, 
or to Allensbachj whence there is a regular ferry to Mittelzell 
on the island, or by taking the steamer as far as Ermatigen, 
and then hiring a boat to go across. 

The highest point in the middle of the island is the 
Hochwacht, or Friedrichshohe. The key of the Belve- 
dere is to be obtained of the Burgomaster of Mittelzell. 

The island of Reichenau {Augia dives), rising from the 
midst of the waters of the Zelktsee, \^ rv^xJq w-axsx^^ % ^^-vs* 



1 14 THE BLACK FOREST. 

a rich and well-cultivated piece of land. It is divided into 
three districts — viz., Oberzell, Mittelzell, and Unterzell ; the 
total population being about 1800. 

Reichenau first appears in history in the '8th century. A 
certain Bishop Priminius, supported by forty brothers, was 
induced to settle on this then desert, barren, island. The 
monks worked hard, and the island soon became famous for 
its beauty and fertility. Kings, princes, knights, and pri- 
vate individuals, vied with each other in increasing the 
possessions of the monastery, until after the lapse of a few 
centuries, the Monastery of Reichenau surpassed in power 
and affluence most of the noble families of Germany. It 
became a saying that when the Abbot of Reichenau went to 
Rome, he could lodge every night at some place belonging 
to himself. A brilliant court was held in the Episcopal 
Palace, visited by Popes, Emperors, Kings, and other great 
dignitaries. Its influence in spreading learning through the 
neighbouring countries was very great 5 it formed in conjunc- 
tion with the cloisters at St. Gallen, Hirsau, and Fuldau, one 
of the first academies of Southern Germany j it had great 
privileges and a wide renown, and German nobles sent their 
youth here to study the collected law-books of the country. 

During the reign of Ludwig the Pious, sixteen hundred 
monks and priests were connected with the Abbey of 
Reichenau. The establishment maintained its high position 
until the i oth century, when it began to sink rapidly, and 
soon came to utter poverty. In 1175, its former income of 
6o,ooofl. had decreased to 6ooofl. 3 and about 1384 its income 
amounted to only 3 silver marks, so that the Abbot had to 
ride morning and evening to the priest at Niederzell to obtain 
his daily meals. This change of circumstances arose partly 
from the disordered state of the country, and partly from the 
excessive extravagance and lunnry m which the abbots and 



BADEN TO FREUDENSTADT. j i ^ 

monks had indulged. Eventually the Convent became subject 
to the Bishop of Constance. 

The chief buildings on the island are, the Monastery 
and the Cathedral Churcll, founded by Abbot Hatto, 
in Mittelzell (806) 5 remarkable for their ancient archi- 
tecture and interesting monuments. Here lies Charles 
the Fat, the grandson of Charlemagne. Various antiquities 
and relics are preserved in the sacristy. Amongst these there 
is a so-called emerald, weighing about 281bs. It is, however, 
only ordinary glass ; but it is believed that a large emerald once 
existed here, being afterwards stolen by the Swedes. The exten- 
sive buildings of the monastery contain nothing of importance. 

Niederzell lies on the western shore of the island 5 the 
old church here has been restored. 

Oberzell is situated on the eastern side of the island. 
The Church is the most important specimen of architecture 
on the island, being built in pure Byzantine style, with some 
additions of later date. It was originally named Hattozell 
from its founder, Hatto III. (888). 

Not far from the church are the ruins of the Castle of 
Schoffeln, destroyed in 1382 by the enraged fishermen of 
the neighbourhood to avenge some of their companions who 
had been imprisoned and blinded by Abbot Mangold, after- 
wards Bishop of Constance. 

On Whit-Tuesday the whole population of the island of 
Reichenau, preceded by priests with the '* Host," crucifix, 
and flags, sail round the island, portions of the gospel being 
read at four different stations. 

BADEN TO FREUDENSTADT, BY THE 

MURGTHAL. 

From Baden to Gernsbach can be accomplished by rail- 
way, via Rastatt, in about li hours. 



Il6 THE BLACK FOREST. 

The direct road to Gernsbach (6 miles) from Baden is by 
the Sophienstrasse, or Graben, and passes the Teufels- 
kanzel (Devirs Pulpit), a rock so called from a tradition 
of a congregation having been assembled and preached to by 
the devil at this spot. Near at hand is the Ellgelskanzel 
(Angel's Pulpit), where it is said that an angel held forth, to 
counteract the tendency of Satan's exhortations. The Teu- 
f elskanzel should be ascended for the view. 

The route hence to Gernsbach is very beautiful. At the 
Wolfsschluct the visitor should pause to examine this 
lovely and romantic glen, before proceeding by Neuhaus and 
Stauffenherg, 

To Gernsbach by the Lichtenthal (p. ^^) is a nine miles' 
drive. 

GERNSBACH 

(Bath Hotel), 

(pop. 1400) is a prosperous little town on the Murg, whose 
inhabitants are chiefly engaged in the timber trade. It is 
becoming increasingly popular as a summer residence. The 
gable of the old Rathhaus dates from the Rennaissance. In 
1849 ^^® Baden insurgents were ousted from Gernsbach by 
the united Prussians, Hessians, and Wurtembergers, and a 
portion of the town burnt. Lovers of angling will find abun- 
dant opportunity for their favourite pursuit in this locality. 

PfeiiFer's pine-cone bath is passed a little above Gerns- 
bach, on the road to Klingel chapel and Schloss Eberstein. 

Schloss Eberstein can be visited from Baden by Lachten- 
tkal and Beuren without going to Gernsbach. At Oher- 
heuren observe the laughing countenance in sandstone at the 
Hotel a la Cor de Chasse. It represents a former host of 
this inn, from a caricature by Dantan the younger. 

The grand ducal castle called Schloss Eberstein is in 
the Margthal, delightfully situated on aNsrooded hill (iioo 



BADEN TO FREUDENSTADT. 1 1 7 

feet), overlooking the rapid and timber-laden Murg. It was 
rebuilt at the beginning of the present century on the site of 
an old manor of the Counts of Eberstein. In front of the 
castle is the figure of a huge boar, seated on a stone pedestal, 
commemorative of the traditional wild*s boar stone (Eber- 
stein), which gave its name to the place. The prospect 
from the terrace or belfry embraces the Murgthal in both 
directions, from the Rhine Valley nearly to Raumiinzach. 
The scenery is a delightful combination of meadows and 
villages, and busy saw-mills, wild glens and lofty hills, and 
the dark forests of pines. In the interior of the Schloss is 
a fine display of armour, and ancient relics of various kinds, 
Gothic furniture, frescoes, and stained glass, and some old 
pictures (i6th century), which can be inspected by visitors 
in the Grand Duke's absence. 

Proceeding up the Murgthal from Gemsbach, the scenery 
is beautifully wild. Rich woods, and meadows and Swiss- 
like cottages adorn the slopes ; the granite rocks occasionally 
break into view. Along the valley flows the Murg, formed 
by the union at Baiersbronn (p. 1 19) of three springs from 
the Kniebis (p. 134), and, after a course of forty- five miles, 
flowing into the Rhine near Rastatt. 

Leaving Grernsbach, the direct road passes to Ohertsroth, 
without ascending to the Schloss. Here is a path to the 
Schloss for visitors coming from Forbach. Hilpertsau is the 
next village. 

Hilpertsau to Wildbad (see p. 121). 

Crossing the Murg, the road next conducts to Weis- 
senbacll. There are some good altar-pieces and stained! 
windows in the modern Gothic Church. The village of 
Aue, from which there is a road to Bermersbach (see p. 125) 
is seen on the opposite bank of the Murg. Turning to 
look towards Eberstein, there is a \erj fe^fc n\«^ ^ "^s^r. 



1 1 8 THE BLACK FOREST. 

mountains round the Murgthal, and the Rhine Valley and 
Vosges Mountains beyond. The hills now close in upon 
tjie road, and assume a wilder aspect. Langenbrand, en- 
circled by frowning rocks of granite, is passed. Carriage- 
road to Bermersbach (p. 125) on the right 5 also a shady foot- 
path by Aue back to Weissenbach. 

By a road partly cut and tunnelled through the rock, 
amidst grand scenery, Gaushach is reached, on the Kauers- 
bach 5 and soon after the Murg is again crossed by a covered 
bridge of wood. 

Forbach. (10 miles from Gernsbach) is a flourishing 
little place, where some 1400 people live chiefly by cattle- 
breeding and the traffic in timber. It is the finest point in 
the Murgthal. The Eckkopf rises to the east, and the 
Mannskopf (3067 feet) to the west. 

Forbach to Baden (12 miles) by Bermersbach (see 
p. 125). 

Forbach to Biihl by Herrenwiese (see p. 125). 

Beyond Forbach, the Murgthal, though presenting an 
aspect of wild, uncultured desolation, is still grand and 
beautiful. Thick forests of pines overhang the torrent dash- 
ing over its rocky bed. The grandest and most densely- 
wooded part of the glen is after rounding the Holdereck. 
No village is met with before reaching the junction of the 
Raumiinzach with the Murg. 

There is an interesting route (10^ miles) through the 
once interminable forest, up the valleys of the Raumiinzach 
and its tributary the Schwarzenbach to Herrenwiese (p. 125). 
Strange sights are seen in these regions when the artificial 
dams, or Schwellungen^ up in the mountains, are let loose, 
and a vast volume of water, bearing immense quantities of 
timber, is sent foaming and dashing down the beds of the 
mountain torrents. As will be teadUy noticed, the stone 



BADEN TO FREUDENSTADT. Hg 

bridges are made far too large for the ordinary streams, in 
order to accommodate these artificial floods. Notice is 
always given in the newspapers when^the Grosse Schwellung 
is to be opened. 

Continuing the Murgthal route, KlrsMaumwassen is 
passed, and near the large glass manufactory Wurtemberg is 
entered. Schdnmiinxach, at the junction of the little stream 
of the same name with the Murg, is the next hamlet. 

From Schonmiinzach there is a route by either bank of 
the stream by Zwiekgabel, Langenhach, and Eckle, crossing 
the wooded ridge called the Siebesleck, which is the boundary 
between Baden and Wurtemberg to Seebach., for the 
Mummelsee and Hornisgrinde (see p. 127). 

About 2L mile and a half along the Murgthal from Schon- 
miinzach precipitous rocks enclose the river, after which the 
valley becomes much tamer in appearance. Schwarzenberg 
by the Schwarzenbergerbach is seen to the left, and Hiitzen- 
bach (3 1 jo feet) to the right. To the left (on the road to 
Wildbad) are the few remains of the Castle of Konigswart, 
built by Count Rudolph of Tiibingen in 1209. The Dobel- 
bach Valley is then passed on the right, and the hamlet of 
ScJionengrund is reached. 

Schonengrund to Wildbad by the Enzthal (see p. 125). 

Passing Roth the traveller next reaches Relchenbach, where 
there is a Romanesque Church built in 1402, which once 
formed part of the Benedictine Abbey founded in 1082 by 
Bruno of Siegberg, and suppressed in the i6th century. 

Baiersbronn is at the confluence of the Red and 
White Murg and the Forbach. About 130 hamlets or 
farms compose this considerable, though scattered township, 
of nearly 5000 inhabitants. 

From Baiersbronn there is a road past manufactories and 
saw mills up the valley of the Murg to "MLU.t.<5iWasv\.^•'ic«:cl. 



1 20 THE BLACK FOREST. 

by ruins of Tannenfels and Oherthal, and up a long, wind- 
ing ascent to Ruhstein, 3 151 feet, with fine views 3 the 
boundary between Baden and Wurtemberg. Thence a 
descent to Seebach (p. 119). 

Baiersbronn to the Kniebis ; the above route is 
followed past Mittelthal, then the road divides. To the left 
by Buhlhach with celebrated glass works, turning out over 
a million champagne bottles annually. (Mountain route 
thence 2 hours to Allerheiligen, p. 129). Up ihe Biihlbach 
Valley and past the small lake of Biihlbach to the Kniebis 
road near the Schwabenschanze (p. 133). 

From Baiersbronn the steep road up the Forbachthal 
leads past the government foundries at Friedrichsthal and 
Christophsthal to Freudenstadt, 

Freudenstadt and routes forward (see p. 83). 

BADEN TO WILDBAD. 

I. Carriage route by Herrenalb, 8 hours' walk, 2. Car- 
riage route by Hilpertsau and Kaltenbronn, 5 hours* walk. 
3. Pedestrian route, with guide, by the Teufelsmiihle, 9 
hours' walk. 

Baden to Gemsbach, (seep. 116). 

Wurtemberg is entered about a mile before reaching 
Loffenaii ; a long, well-paved village. Summit of the 
Teufelsmiihle (3172 feet) on the right (li hours) 5 extensive 
views. 

The road ascends to the Kdppelk, adjacent mountains, 
Hardtkopf, 1817 feet 5 Rosenstein, 2552 feet. After 
Moreau*s retreat in 1796, Lecourbe dislodged some Aus- 
trian troops from this position. The beautiful prospect from 
this pass includes Schloss Eberstein, the Felsen,the Stauffen, 
Ebersteinburg, the Mercuriusberg, etc. 

Descending through meadows and pinewood, Herren- 



BADEN TO WILDBAD. 121 

alb is next reached^ with its hydropathic establishment of 
considerable repute. The Benedictine Abbey, founded by 
Count Berthold of Eberstein, and his wife Uda, in 1148, 
was destroyed by the soldiers of the Duke of Weimar in 
1642. In the church and cloisters are some interesting 
tombs of princes, nobles, and abbots. 

From Herrenalb can be visited the adjacent Albthal, the 
huge granite rock called the Falkenstein (^ hour), or the 
Mautzenstein (li hours), fine views. 

A Diligence runs from Herrenalb to Neuenburg (p. 123), 
and another by the Albthal to Ettlingen, each about 3 hours. 
The latter passes the ruined abbey of Frauenalb (1138 feet), 
picturesquely situated. 

An ascending road through pine forests leads to the 
bleak mountain plateau and village of Dobel (2374 feet), 
the view includes the Rhine Valley, with the Vosges and 
Kaiserstuhl and town of Strassburg. The Cathedral of 
Spires can be seen in favourable weather. 

The road now conducts into the Eyach Valley, and then 
across an intervening ridge into the Valley of the Enz. 

2. Baden to Hilpertsau (see p. 1 1 7). From Hilpertsau, the 
Reichenbach Valley is ascended, to Reichentlial. The 
scenery amongst the rugged mountains of this neighbourhood 
is very fine. The road now leads by the Glaserwald to the 
Kreuzlein. From the small cross](3i57 feet) there are 
fine prospects over the Murgthal, Rhine Valley, Black Forest 
mountains, etc. The hunting lodge of Kaltenbronn, 
where refreshments can be obtained, is next reached. There 
are fine views from the adjacent Hohlohkopf (3586 feet). 
From Kaltenbronn there is a carriage road by the Enzthal to 
Wildbad ; also several footpaths, one leading by the charm- 
ing but lonely Wildsee. 

3. The third route, from Baden to W\ldb^d^\%W^^'^%- 



122 THE BLACK FOREST. 

trians only. To Gernsbach, see p. ii6. Thence by Lauten- 
bach over the TeufelsmiiMe, or Devil's Mill, 3172 feet. 
There are grand prospects from the summit. The locality 
seems to have been a favourite one with the Prince of Dark- 
ness. The Teufelskammern, or Devil's Chambers, are 
close at hand. Both the mill and the chambers are said to 
have been fabricated by him with great noise and fury, after 
being beaten in the preaching contest at the Teufelskana^il 
and Engelskanzel (p. 1 16). The Teufelsbett, where he 
reposed after his toil, is also shown, and some tourists will 
perhaps experience a satisfaction in visiting the Teufelsgrab, 
or Devil's Grave. The descent, with a guide, can be effected 
either to Wildbad, Kaltenbrojan, Herrenalb, or LofEenau. 

WILDBAD 

(Hotel Freg and Hotel Keim. Both good hotels and in 

good situations). 
Is an increasingly popular watering place 5 population about 
3000, annual number of bathers about 6000. The springs, 
noticeable as containing no lime, are over a 100° Fahrenheit j 
they are efficacious in several disorders of the skin, nerves, etc. 
Around Wildbad the scenery is very romantic. Dark 
pine woods clothe the hills, and rapid streams bordered with 
bright green meadows, run through the intervening valleys. 
Wildbad is in the Valley of the Enz ; the hurrying river 
thick laden with timber, which men with hooks are guiding 
here and there, then the rich meadows on either side dotted 
over with the rustic storehouses for hay, then the belt of cul- 
tivated fields and orchards sprinkled with houses, and above 
them all the long, long stretch of dark pine woods in regular 
slopes to the summits of the hills, combine to render the 
scene specially attractive. Signs of busy life abound j char- 
coal £oors, from which the smoke constaJoW^ xvsies, saw mills 



WILDBAD TO PFORZHEIM. 123 

in busy action^ wagons loaded with charcoal or timber, and 
various other signs, indicate the industry of the dwellers in 
this delightful valley. 

Wildbad has been six times burnt, and two or three times 
inundated. The Croats in the Thirty Years' War, and the 
French in the War of Succession, committed fearful atroci- 
ties in this district. 

Wildbad as a town, has no particular attractions in itself 
apart from its baths, and the usual arrangements for the 
convenience or amusement of visitors. But it forms a good 
centre from which to visit the Northern portion of the Black 
Forest, and as Mr. Howittsays, " To explore the deep woods, 
the wild lakes and waters ; the thickest shades of the old pine 
woods, the haunts of the spirits Glass mannchen, and Hol- 
lander Michel 3 to talk with the woodmen, the charcoal 
burners, and the busy wooden clockmakers, etc., and see the 
timber floaters preparing their rafts, and setting forth on 
their voyage to the Rhine and Holland.'* 

In the immediate environs of Wildbad are many delight- 
ful walks. The Royal Park has some fine avenues. The 
Schweizerhaus, Windhof (with Cafe), Kuhlen' Brunnen, 
Panoramaweg, and many other pretty or interesting spots 
are led to by the numerous paths along the banks of the 
£qz, or up the sides of the mountains. Longer excursions 
to Liebenzell, with its old mediaeval castle and baths> to 
Hirscliau, with its ruined monastery, or to Kaltenbronn, 
(p. 121), the Hohlohkopf (p. 121), etc., can also be readily 
undertaken. 

WILDBAD TO PFORZHEIM. 

By railway in i hour. 

Stations: Calmhach, Hofen, Neuenlurg, with a modern 

castle, and remains of an ancient one; Birkenfeld* 

Brolzingen, Pforzham. 



124 '^^^ BLACK FOREST. 

Pforzheim is an ancient city, at the base of the 
Schwarzwald at the confluence of the Enz, Nagold, and 
Wiirm. Reuchlin, one of the most remarkable men in the 
1 6th century, who was bom in this town, asserts that Pforz- 
heim, then called Phorzeim, was founded by Phorcys the 
Trojan, auxiliary of Priam. Others say the town was 
anciently Orcynheim, from the Sylva Hercynia, or Orcynia 
of Caesar. Hence it was asserted by some that Pforzheim 
was the ancient Porta Hercyniae. But all these antique pre- 
tensions are, to say the least, exceedingly doubtful. 

Pforzheim has shared in the troublous history of the 
district. During the 17th century it was sacked several 
times by the French. A branch of the Margraves of Baden 
dwelt here for nearly three centuries, and there are some 
interesting monuments connected with them in the Alstadt 
Church and Castle Church. 

The manufactures of Pforzheim are important, being 
chiefly of jewellery (employing about 4000 workmen), 
woollen cloths, leather, and chemical products. There are 
also some forges for copper and iron. A considerable trade 
is done in wine, oil, and timber. 

From Pforzheim there is a railway to Carlsruhe, and 
another to Stuttgart. 

There is a route from Pforzheim by the Nagoldthal, 
by Unter Reichenbach, Liebenzell (p. 123), Hirschau 
(p. 123), Calm and Wildberg to Nagold. Hence there is 
a route to Freudenstadt (see p. 83) by Dornstetten. Also 
from Nagold there is a route to Horb (p. 84), a station 
on the Upper Neckar Railway. 

WILDBAD TO FREUDENSTADT. 

This route is by Windhof, up the Enz Valley to 
^nzHosferte, and stiJJ upwards amotigst l\ife ic^oxroX^vas, and 



FORBACH TO BCHL. 1 25 

past the saw- mills on the Enz to Gumpelscheuer, Thence by 
Poppelthal and Urnagold to Besenfeld, where the ridge is 
crossed separating the Murgthal from the Enzthal. The 
prospects from this point are very fine. Soon after leaving 
Besenfeld^ the road descends in zig-zags through the pine 
woods, passing the Castle of Konigswart (see p. 119), and 
So reaches the Murgthal route near ScJidnengrund (p. 119). 

Schonegrund to Freudenstadt (p. 119). 

SchOnegrund to Forbach and Baden (p. 119, read back). 

BADEN TO FORBACH. 

This route (12 miles) leaves the Eberstein road at the 
finger-post beyond Beuren (p. 116). Here a road is followed 
up the lovely Raubach Valley to Gaisbach and Schmalhach, 
Thence by the Bermersbach Valley to Forbach. 

FORBACH TO HERRENWIESE AND BUHL. 

A forest path which, though solitary, can be readily 
traced, leads west from Forbach to Herrenwiese, in three 
hours. 

Herrenwiese is a village of 200 inhabitants, with a 
hunting lodge in the midst of a fine grouse-shooting dis- 
trict. High mountains encircle the lofty plain on which the 
village stands. The Mehlinskopf and the Ochsenkopf (3280 
feet) are in near proximity j and various interesting forest 
paths to Geroldsau, the Fliedersee, Hundsbach, etc., can be 
explored. 

From Herrenwiese, the road to Buhl is along the 
Biihlerthal, a charming walk of 3 hours. It is best to keep 
to the road, as affording better views than the footpaths made 
to save distance. The ruins of Barenstein, crowning a 
pine-clad eminence, are seen, and some springs, uniting to 
form the Wiedenbach, and aiteiwaccds 'Ccv^ ^\ii^<5{^. ^^x '^ 



126 THE BLACK FOREST. 

time the path is in thick foliage, with occasional vistas of 
pretty scenery. At length more extensive views are obtained. 
A Pavilion on a precipitous rock near the path, should 
be climbed up to. The prospect is very fine. The valleys 
of the Gartelbach (left), and Wiedenbach (right), lie like two 
immense gulfs of foliage, with here and there huge rocks 
projecting. The woods and mountains and pastures of the 
Biihlerthal lie to the north-west, and beyond these, in favour- 
able weather, the Rhine Valley and the Vosges mountains 
are visible. 

After the Wiedenbach Valley is left, the Biihlerthal 
is entered, and the township of the same name (pop. 3124) 
is seen scattered over foiar miles of country 5 Altschweir 
(pop. ioj6) and Affentkal, noted for its red wine, are passed, 
and then the Rhine Valley is reached at Biihl, 

Buhl to Baden or Freiburg, by rail (see p. 34). 

ACHERN TO THE HORNISGRINDE, MUM- 
MELSEE, AND ALLERHEILIGEN. 

This route passes the Illenau asylum, the Erlenbad, of 
considerable local popularity, and the old ruined castle on the 
Brigittenberg, known as the Hohenrad, or Brigitten- 
S Chios S, to the Hornisgrinde. 

The Hornisgrinde (3800 feet) is the highest moun- 
tain in this portion of the Black Forest. A massive square 
signal-tower marks the summit, which is bare and swampy. 
The view from the base of the tower, when not interrupted 
by the frequent mists, is very extensive. On the north are 
seen the Mercuriusberg, and other mountains round Baden ; 
on the east, Schonmunzach, Freudenstadt, etc., are seen in 
the midst of a broad immensity of forest, with the Hohen- 
twiel and other peaks of the Hohgau (p. 99) far to the right ; 
on the south the Bkck Forest stretches away in wild variety. 



ACHERN TO THE HORNISGRINDE. 127 

the Feldberg (p. 1^3), Belchen (p. 157), and Blauen (p. 157), 
forming conspicuous objects, and the Alps crowning the 
distant horizon; on the west the ruins of the Brigitten- 
schloss are conspicuous in the foreground 5 and then the 
valley of the Rhine, with the Vosges Mountains and Kaiser- 
stuhl. 

A short distance from the Hornisgrinde is the Mum- 
melsee, formerly Wundersee, or Lacus Mirabilis, a gloomy, 
wild lake, nearly a mile in circumference, and situated 3360 
feet above the sea level. It is encircled by the pine-clad 
mountains, and was formerly believed to be inhabited by 
water sirens, who won the hearts of young peasants with 
their charms. The Seehach issues from this lake. 

With reference to the Mummelsee, we extract the fol- 
lowing from the Sagen aus Baden : — 

*^ Between the valleys of Sassbachwald and Oberkappel 
the mountains of the lower Schwarzwald attain their greatest 
elevation. An extensive mountain ridge rises some 3joo 
feet above the level of the sea. Almost all vegetation ceases 
there 5 only the broom plant or the red moss covers the 
swampy peat-bog, that sinks at every step, and upon which, 
at intervals, solitary, gnarled, dwarf pines eke out with diffi- 
culty their sickly existence. This inhospitable district is 
variously denominated Seekopf, Hornisgrinde, and also 
Gunzberg ; the southern peak, in particular, bears the latter 
name. Here lies on a rocky ledge in a deep mountain 
basin, enclosed by enormous clifF-masses, a gloomy, un- 
fathomable mountain lake, whence takes its source the 
Seebach, of which the wild Acher is a tributary. A deep 
unbroken silence reigns constantly over the lonely desert 
region. The blackthorn grows among the towering crags ; 
the blue sky overhead is reflected on the dark surface of the 
lake. This gloomy, horrifying lake is now c^W^ ^s^sxssv- 



J 28 THE BLACK FOREST. 

melsee, from the Mummelchen, or water maidens, that 
are said to dwell there. Wonder lake, Lacus MirahUis, it 
was called by the ancients. In its neighbourhood lie the 
ruined mountain castles of Hagenbnigg, Basenstein, and 
Hokinrodf. In the mouth of the people there are numerous 
legends concerning this lake. 

'* The Undines, or Lake Maidens, who dwell in the deep 
abyss, in crystal palaces, with splendid gardens, in which 
the blood-red coral blooms by the side of the fragrant 
water-rose, are marvellously lovely, enchanting beings, 
of sylph-like form and rosy beauty. Nightly do they ascend 
to the surface of the dark waters, and join in the charming 
dance to the sound of soft music -, or hasten with the spindle 
to the nearest cot, there to pass the evening in gossip and 
work in the circle of the simple-minded inhabitants of the 
mountain. But the first gleam of morning and the crowing 
of the cock that heralds the dawn, calls them all without 
exception to their realm beneath the wave. Still it happens 
at times that the charming water-maidens linger too long in 
the upper world 5 that the day dawns as the diligent workers 
are still on their way home ; that at the lightsome hue of 
the first morning beam in the east the night-stars vanish, 
while the lovely Undines yet move in the graceful dance , 
without perceiving that the surly, old, grey water-sprite 
ascends from the dark abyss, just as the night mists flit 
before the morning's glimmering light, and angrily admon- 
ishes the dilatory ones to return without delay to their 
watery home." 

The village of Seebach can be reached by one or two 
easily ascertained routes from the Mummelsee. 

Seebach to Schonmunzach (see p. 119). 

Seebach to Baiersbronn (see p. 120). 
From Seebach there is a direct route lo Mlerheiligen, but 



ALLERHEILIGEN. 1 20 

it is preferable, as regards scenery, to go down the Seebach 
valley to Ottenhofen. 

Ottenhofen to Allerheiligen (see next route). 

ACHERN BY KAPPEL TO ALLERHEILIGEN. 

Achern (see p. 3 j). Carriages meet the trains, or it can 
be walked in less than four hours. 

The road runs along the verdant Kappeler Thai. Ober- 
acJiern is first passed, then Kappel, with the ruins of 
Rodeck close by. From Kappel there is a cross route to 
Oberkirchen in the Renchthal. Following the smiling banks 
of the Achembach, which waters this pleasant valley, 
FurscJienhach is reached, and then Ottenhofen (Hotel 

Pflug). 

Ottenhofen to the Mummelsee and Hornisgrinde (see 
above). 

Pedestrians will find a charming walk (2^ hours) from 
Ottenhofen to Allerheiligen by the lovely Gottschlagthal, past 
the legendary grotto called the Edelfrauengrab, and 
Blocliereck, As is usual in the Black Forest, guide-posts 
are abundantly provided. 

The carriage-road ascends to Neuhaus, whence two roads 
(the old, very steep) conduct to the summit of the hill seen 
in front. A steep descent conducts to Allerheiligen, The 
view on approaching is very striking. 

ALLERHEILIGEN 

is justly celebrated for its ruins and its waterfalls. The 
inn accommodation is limited, and late arrivals are often 
forced to continue their journey. 

The celebrated ruins of the Premonstratensian Abbey 
of Allerheiligen, or All Saints', almost fill up the solitary, 
wooded valley in which they stand. Being notoriouslY vsjx- 
safe, great care is requisite In e^L^Wvci^ >Oaeav. ^Wnr. Ks5^«^ 



1 20 THE BLACK FOREST. 

was founded in 1 196, by the Countess Uda of Schauenberg. 
After existing as a convent till i6j7, it became a celebrated 
scholastic establishment, till its suppression in 1802. The 
deserted edifice was set on fire by lightning in the following 
year, and has since, in its picturesque decay, formed a great 
attraction to visitors. 

The Biittenstein Falls, '' Seiben Butten;' or Seven 
Cauldrons, are formed by the Grindenbach, as it dashes down 
from a volcanic cleft in the mountains to the valley below, 
and forms a series of cascades by the intervention of huge 
granite rocks. The setting of these waterfalls is very pic- 
turesque, and there are the usual appliances of steps, 
bridges, etc., to enable visitors to get at the best points of 
view. 

The Sop/uenruhe, Engelskanzel, Teufelsstein, and other 
points in the vicinity of Allerheiligen, afford fine prospects 
for those who have time to linger here. 

From Allerheiligen there is a direct route (4 hours) over 
the Kniebis (p. 134) to Rippoldsau (p. 80). 

ALLERHEILIGEN TO OPPENAU. 

The carriage-road from Allerheiligen overlooks the beau- 
tiful valley of the Lierbach, from the side of the mountain. 
Several hamlets are passed in the Lierbachthal before 
reaching Oppenau, 6 miles (see p. 132). 

Oppenau to the Kniebis, etc. (see p. 13a). 

Oppenau to Appenweier (see below). 

APPENWEIER TO OPPENAU AND THE 

KNIEBIS BATHS. 

Appenweier (see p. 3^), Pass Nasshach, and cross the 

Rench^ then up the well- cultivated and picturesque Rench- 

tbal to OJberkirch, Sotel Linde C^o^. a.iQo'i^ a manufac- 



APPENWEIER TO OPPEN AU. I o j 

turing and agricultural town, with some remains of its 14th 
century walls, and other architectural attractions. Good wine 
(Klingenberger) and very fine Kirschwasser, are produced in 
this district. There is a fine prospect from the ruins of 
Schauenburg. The ruins of Ullenburg, destroyed by Cardinal 
Rohan in 1785, and some inconsiderable remains of the 
Fiirsteneck, a stronghold of the Furstenbetgs, demolished by 
the French in 1 689, are passed in proceeding up the valley > 
also the hamlets of Thiergarten and Ringelbach. A detour 
can be made by Fiirsteneck to the Chapel of St. Wendolin, 
with fine views. 

Leaving the valley of Hesselbach to the right, Lauten- 
lach is reached, on the stream of the same name. Here also 
Kirschwasser is the staple commodity. The Church is 
dedicated to Maria Zum Guten Rath (Our Lady of Good 
Counsel). It is a Gothic edifice, dating from 14 71, and is 
much visited by pilgrims. It contains a badly preserved 
Adoration of the Magi, of the School of Rubens^ several 
old Grerman pictures, and some stained glass. 

From Lautenbach there is a road to Allerheiligen by Steig, 
the Sohlberg (2J40 feet), and the Eselsbrunnen. Here 
is an inscription testifying that, *Mn the year 119T, an ass 
was led to this spot, and caused a spring to rise by striking 
the gitound with his foot." The pious Countess Uda, who 
had previously decided to settle the location of her convent 
by the movements of this ass, thought this must be the 
chosen spot, and laid the foundations here ; but during the 
night all the materials were miraculously removed to the 
valley now known as Allerheiligen. 

Proceeding up the valley from Lautenbach, the Sulzbach- 
thal, containing the small bath of Sulzbach, is passed on the 
left. The ruins of the mediaeval castle (1287 to 1504) of 
Neuenstein are seen above the inn ca\\e^\)wi'^\i^'a>.0«w^'^'^. 



1^2 THE BLACK FOREST. 

Oppenau, at the junction of the Rench and Lierbach, 
was founded about 1300 a.d., and destroyed by the French 
in 1689. The interesting church has some fine stained 
glass. 

Oppenau to Allerheiligen (see p. 130). 

Oppenau to Freudenstadt (see p. 133). 

THE KNIEBI3 BATHS. 

The Kniebis Baths^ consisting chiefly of Freiersbach, 
Petersthal, Griesbach, Antogast, and Rippoldsau, are a group 
of watering-places lying to the south-west of Oppenau, near 
the base of the mountain from which they take their name. 

Proceeding south from Oppenau, either by diligence or 
on foot, the traveller ascends the narrow but attractive 
Renchthal, skirting the base of the Blauenberg, and passing 
Ibach and Locherherg, 

Locherberg to Zell, by Nordrach or Harmersbach (see 
p. 76). 

Freiersbach (1260 feet) has a good supply of chaly- 
beate and sulphurous springs 5 with the usual arrangements 
for vapour, pine-cone, or other baths. The views are pretty. 

Bad Petersthal is the chief of the Kniebis Baths 5 
there is a post and telegraph office. There are four springs 
of varying temperature 5 iron and carbonic acid gas being 
conspicuous in the composition of the water. The situation 
of the baths which are well supplied with all necessary 
arrangements for bathing, inhalation, dancing, billiard play- 
ing, conversation, etc., is very sheltered and agreeable. The 
annual export of bottled water from the Petersthal springs is 
400,000 bottles. 

From Petersthal there is a charming route by the Wilds- 
chapbachthal to Schapbach (see p. 79). 

The walks and excursions rownd Petersthal to the various 



THE KNIEBIS BATHS. 1^3 

mountains, valleys, or baths, are very numerous. The 
visitor will find no difficulty in tracing these out in great 
variety. 

Griesbach. lies rather to the north of Petersthal, at the 
junction of the Griesbach and Rench. The springs have 
been long celebrated for their efficacy in general debility, 
rheumatism, and various other complaints. The usual 
accommodations for patients and visitors are well supplied. 

AntOgast is prettily situated at the foot of the Ross- 
biihlschanze, and so shut in, that the sun does not shine on 
it all the winter months. The water is much the same as 
at Petersthal, but is specially commended for skin com- 
plaints. This bath is situate on a cross route about midway 
between Oppenau and Griesbach. 

From Griesbach a road ascends to the summit of the 
Kniebis (p. 134) and there joins the Kniebis Road from 
Oppenau to Freudenstadt (see below). A mile further on 
(p. 134) a road diverges to Rippoldsau. 

The pleasantest route from Griesbach to Rippoldsau 
is found by leaving the road and taking the footpath with 
the telegraph wires, and frequent seats, leading through the 
Forest, past the cascade of Rappenschliffen, and various good 
points of view to the rustic temple called the Sophienruhe. 
Hence there is a zigzag descent past the Holwand Inn to 
Rippoldsau. 

Rippoldsau (see p. 80). 

OPPENAU TO FREUDENSTADT. 

The Kniebis Road winds up the Rossbiihl, reaching in 
6 miles the earthwork thrown up about a century ago, called 
the Schwabenschanze, or Suabian Redoubt. The 
Scliwedensclianze, an intrenchment of earlier date^ \& 



134 THE BLACK FOREST. 

about a quarter of a mile to the south, near the inn, Zur 
Zuflucht. At the summit of the Kniebis (34 jo feet) form- 
ing the boundary between Baden and Wurtemburg is the 
Alexanderschanze, or Fort Alexander, with an inn of 
the same name. Here the road from Griesbach unites (see 
p. 133). From the terraces and summit of this mountain 
there are good views towards the south and east, of the 
Black Forest Mountains and the Rhine Valley. 

Descending the mountain, the road divides at the inn, 
Zum Lamm, that to the right leads to Rippoldsau (p. 80). 
The road to the left continues through the village of Kniebis 
to Freudenstadt (p. 83). 

FREIBURG TO THE HOLLENTHAL, ETC. 

To reach the beautiful valley known as the Hollenthal 
(Valley of Hell), Freiburg is left by the Schwabenthor and 
the ascending road along the Valley of the Dreisam followed. 
The first portion of the valley is known as the Kirclizar- 
terthal, a fertile plain bounded by low hills to the north and 
south. 

On the right Schauinsland (p. 53) is seen, from which 
there is a view of the Alps. Further on the Feldberg, with the 
tower on the top, comes into view. Ehnet with its castle, and 
IPisnich are passed, and further on to the left the ruined castle 
of Falkenstein is seen. This pile was reared by robber 
princes, who in old times, used to waylay merchants on the 
roads, and sometimes make raids on Freiburg, or even make 
predatory incursions amongst the dwellers on the banks of 
the Rhine. 

At Zarten (6 miles from Freiburg) there is a road on 
the right leading by Todtnau and Schonau to Scliopf- 
heim, whence the road can be taken to Basle. This road 



FREIBURG TO THE HOlLENTHAL. 1^5 

ascends through Kirchzarien, Oherried (at the entrance to 
the Zastlerthal) and past the entrance to the St. Wilhelms- 
thal> to NothsckreL This place commemorates in its name 
{Need-cry) the time when the peasants, in their need, 
applied to the government for a road, and could not get it. 
Nothschrei (3300 feet) is the highest point in the route, and 
the visitor here descends into the Wiesenthal (p. 152). 

The path on the left from Zarten leads by the Espach- 
therthal to the old convent of St. Peter's, and to the Kandel. 

Proceeding from Zarten towards the Hollenthal, the way 
is well marked out by sign-posts placed by the Black Forest 
Association. Crucifixes and other emblems of the popular 
faith are seen. Here and there we behold traces of fortifica- 
tions, or of monasteries, where the good old monks worked 
and prayed, and developed the resources of the land. 

The first part of the Hollenthal is known as the Him- 
melreich. (Kingdom of Heaven). On entering, there is a 
remarkable view of Freiburg. The carriage should be 
stopped to take a leisurely survey. On proceeding, the 
scenery is very fine, affording an endless profusion of splen- 
did views for artists. The first post stage is reached at Burg, 
Travellers will be struck with the quaint dwellings of the 
people in this neighbourhood, some of them in the Swiss 
style with heavy eaves. The charcoal burners, wood carvers, 
and sawyers engaged in their occupations, or passing to and 
fro from their work, with the slides for letting timber down 
the hills, and other evidences of industry, all lend additional 
interest to this picturesque route. Vegetation of the most 
varied description clothes the hills that gradually close in 
nearer to the traveller as he pursues his way refreshed by the 
cool air wafted from the small river Holle. 

A path is passed on the left leading to Buchenbach, and 
thence up the Wagensteig Valley to St. Margen> a be^nlvlviL 



136 THE BLACK FOREST. 

and salubrious village^ with an old convent, and a good place 
to stay for awhile en pension, to try the celebrated Air-cure. 
From St. Margen there is a road by the Wildgutachthal and 
GiJtenbach to Furtwagen (p. i jo), and thence to Triberg 
(p. 89), or by Bregenbach to Donaueschingen (p. 95). 

Between some iron works on the right, and the frowning 
ruins of Falkenstein (see p. 134) on the left, the Hollenpass 
is entered. This is a grand ravine, nearly a mile long, with 
precipitous rocks overhanging the way, and jutting out 
amongst masses of rich foliage. The present road was con- 
structed by the Austrian Government in 1770, when Marie 
Antoinette passed through it to marry the Dauphin. On 
that occasion the rocks were blasted to procure a freer 
passage for the bridal train. In 1796, this wild defile echoed 
to the tramp of armed hosts as Moreau retreated before the 
Archduke Charles; though in 1702, Villars had refused to 
conduct his army through the glen, declaring that he was not 
devil enough to do so.* 

The wild beauty of the pass culminates at the Hirsch— 
.sprung (Stag's Leap), where the traveller is literally walled 
in by lofty rocks, partially covered with pines and underwood. 
At the ** spring,** on the summit of a clear wall of rock, 160 
feet high, is the figure of a stag, admirably carved out of 
a mere plank, as will be seen when passing immediately 
under it. 

Soon after passing the Hirschsprung, some projecting 
rocks are rounded, and the valley widens. The scenery 
becomes less wild, though still grand. The perpetually 
changing prospects afford a delightful variety for either the 
pedestrian or carriage traveller. On approaching ther Holien^ 

* " Cette vallee de Neustadt, que vous me proposez, c*est ce chexnin qu*on 
appelle le Val d'Enfer. He bien, que voire Altesse me pardonne Texpres- 
sionje ne suh pas Diabie pour y ^9sscr***-^yiiiars to the Elector of Bavaria, 



FREIBURG TO THE h5LLENTHAL. 107 

steig, the scene becomes park-like, a green level sward forms 
the margin of the river, and then sloping banks terminate in 
pine-clad heights. The saw-mills at Alte-post are passed, 
and at the end of another short ravine the Chapel of St. 
Oswald is seen on the left, picturesquely perched on a 
height above the road. In this church a weekly service for 
the peasantry and outlying population is held, the same clergy- 
man having a regular round of churches of a similar character 
to attend. 

8TERNEN, HOLSTEIG. 

Golden Star Hotel. A capital house, with good accom- 
modation, and in a most delightful situation. 

Holsteig is a charming little village, exquisitely situated, 
about 2900 feet above the sea level. It can be easily reached 
from Freiburg (13 j miles), a few hours spent in the neigh- 
bourhood, and the return to Freiburg effected in a day*s excur- 
sion. There is a curious little church here, having three seats 
on each side, and accommodating just eighteen people. A fair 
Madonna and Child forms the altar-piece. 

A variety of pleasant excursions can be made from this 
place, which is a capital spot for a day or two's stay. 

Immediately opposite the excellent' Star Inn, is the 
entrance to the rocky ravine, known as the Ravennathal, 
which no one should omit to visit. Walk for about five 
minutes, then ascend some steps to a small lake. Cross 
some bridges, and pass the bathing-place and picturesque 
rest-houses, to the fine Cascade, very pretty and pleasant. 
This spot is a delicious summer retreat, as it is always shady 
and cool. The Cross Rock need not be ascended if the 
visitor intends proceeding to St. Blasien, as the carriage- 
road passes above it and commands a view of the valley. 

There is a pleasant walk from Sternen to Breitnau^ oae 



iqg THE BLACK FOREST. 

of the highest.villages in the Black Forest^ celebrated for its 
cool air cure. 

Stemen to the Feldberg (see p. 154). 

STERNEN (HdLLENTHAU TO ST. BLASIEN. 

Ascending the Hollensteig (extra horse required and 
charged for) from the Stem Inn^ the views are unparalleled, 
the green grass slopes^ the little chilets, the mound or 
conical hill surrounded by a small pavilion — every detail is 
efiecdve. Autumn's tints or Spring's new growths entwined 
amongst the dark pines, or Smnmer's gorgeous colouring — 
every season is beautiful here. The zig-zag road up to 
Oberhollsteig on the summit, is admirably constructed. The 
Fahrenbach waterfall is passed, and the Cross Rock, at the 
head of the Ravennathal, where the views are strangely beau- 
tiful and unique. Further on the look down into the Leven- 
thai (so named firom a spoon manufactory) is perfection , the 
opposite heights are crowned with peasant farms. The 
traveller will not fail to notice along the road, on almost 
every house or bam, some pleasing emblem of religious faith. 

To the right Hinterzarien is passed — an attractive spot, 
with cheap pension accommodation. On the left b a road 
leading to Breitnau, which may be taken as a return route 
to Freiburg. A long day's excursion is required to efl^ct 
this journey ; two good horses should be selected ^ and the 
start from Freiburg should be made not later than firom 5 to 
6 a.m. 

The road forward is tolerably level along the top of the 
mountain range, over 3000 feet in height. AltenWBg is 
the junction for the post-wagen. Passengers for Donaues- 
chiogen change here, and take the road on the left by 
JVenstadty Loffingen and Hiifingen (see p. 164). The road to 
Hocbeaswand, or St. Blasien, turns ^v^ViXlf to the right 



hOLLENTHAL to ST. BLASIEN. j^q 

and in a short time brings the visitor in sight of the Titi 
See. 

Footway on the right to the Barenthal and Feldberg (see 

P- i53)> 3 hours. 

The Titi See is a small lake, about 2900 feet in 
lengthy surrounded by wooded hills. There is an inn^ 
the Hotel Titi See, close by the lake. Pike and other 
fish are found in the lake, and facilities are provided at the 
hotel for boating or fishing. The lake is fed by the See- 
bach, which flows from the gloomy Feldbergsee (p. 154), 
and discharges itself by the Gutach. It is said that whoever 
dives in the Titi See hears every carriage that passes along 
the road, and that the sound is like the ringing of bells. 
These mysterious sounds are in the old legends ascribed to 
witches. 

Winding up the road to the summit of a ridge of hills, a 
good view of the Feldberg is obtained. The road to Lenzkirch 
is left (p. 164), and the southern shore of the Titi See skirted, 
and a descent by way of Muhlingen accomplished into the 
Falkauerhthal. Falkau, where there is a screw manufactory, 
is passed on the left, and then the elevated village of 
Altglashiitten is reached (3228 feet), on the side of the 
Barhalde. At the inn of this pleasant little village the tourist 
may lunch. 

After leaving Altglashiitten, the road takes a sharp turn 
to the left, through forest formerly belonging to St. Blasien, 
in which there is a picturesque little lake, of twenty or thirty 
acres, though smaller in the summer months. 

At Aha, a village of farm houses on a bleak plateau, 
there is a road to the right to Menzenschwand, Wehr, and 
Schopfheim. There is also a road to the Feldberg from this 
point. 

The main road leads in an easterly dicecdotJL 1<^ ^^\siss^s1ejl 



1^.0 THE BLACK FOREST. 

bank of the Schluchsee. To the village of ScWuchsee 
(Hotel Star), (2900 feet), a road diverges on the left, np 
which the diligence ascends. 

The Lake called the ScWuchsee soon comes in sight 
after leaving Aha, and the road passes along the margin. It 
is two miles in length by about three-quarters broad. Fish 
is abundant, and there are proper facilities for boating, etc. 
On the opposite side of the lake wooded hills rise from the 
water's edge. The Schluchsee is longer and much more 
prettily situated than the Titi See, and the air is more 
bracing. It is a capital place for a short stay, as the walks 
in the neighbourhood are delightful. There is a fine pros- 
pect of the Alps to be obtained from the Faulenfirst, 
which can be reached from Schluchsee by an hour's walk 
through the forest. 

Pedestrians are recommended to cross the lake in a boat, 
and then proceed by footpath through the Blasiwald in a 
couple of hours to St. Blasien. 

At the end of the lake is Seebruck, with a few scat- 
tered houses, and an inn in a splendid situation. The best 
view of the lake is from a mound near the inn. 

The road on the right at Seebruck leads to S. Blasien, 
that on the left to Bonndorf. The road straight in front 
runs through Hochenschwand to Waldshut (see p. 148). 

ST. BLASIEN. 

The Hotel St. Blasien is a fine house, close to the church, 
with good views of the valley. There is a Depend- 
ance adjoining, beautifully built and decorated. The 
proprietors speak English fluently, and are always 
glad to impart information to travellers. Post and 
Telegraph Offices, Baths, and other town requisites, 
will be found at St. Blas\en. 



ST. BLASOEN. I^I 

The town contains about a thousand inhabitants, and is 
situated 2530 feet above the sea level. It is considered a 
remarkably healthy place, and is a capital spot to select for 
head-quarters during explorations of the surrounding dis- 
trict. The place itself is rather tame, but its salubrity, cen- 
tral situation, the attractions of the neighbourhood, the game 
m the adjacent forests, the trout in the Alb, etc., all com- 
bine to make St. Blasien a much-visited town in the season. 

The magnificent church., which was one of the chief 
attractions of St. Blasien, was destroyed by fire in 1874. It 
was built in 1786, and was an imitation of the Pantheon at 
Rome. It is now a fine ruin, but a complete ruin ; the outer 
walls, main portico, and chancel only being left standing. 
It will, however, be restored as nearly as possible to its 
former condition, when, with its frescoed cupola seen from 
afar, and its colmnns of huge granite supporting a projecting 
portico, it formed so conspicuous an ornament of the town. 
The fire by which it was destroyed originated in the large 
cotton manufactory adjoining. It was in vain that all the 
necessary appliances were at band, for none could be used, 
in consequence of the water- works being frozen at the time 
of the catastrophe. 

The cotton manufactory, employing 500 or 600 
workpeople, was originally a famous Benedictine Abbey, 
founded in the loth century, and subsequently celebrated for 
the learning of its inmates. It was two or three times 
destroyed and restored, and was rebuilt for the last time in 
1786. Its abbots at one time ranked as princes, but in 1805 
the abbey was suppressed, and the building has since been 
used for industrial purposes. The monks removed into 
Carintbia, taking with them some bones of Habsburg princes 
buried here. 

The Tusculum WateTt^AV \s tSJoooX. \J52Cl ^ssssac&si^ 



1^2 THE BLACK FOREST. 

walk from the Hotel. The Vietrichtie (or Fitch) is a 
mountain close at hand, with a pavilion on the summit^ from 
which there are splendid views. Fine prospects can also be 
obtained from the Calvarienberg ; deer abound in the 
Chasse of St. Blasien. 

St. Blasien to the Schluchsee, for pike-fishing, etc. 
(reverse previous route), 3 hours. 

St Blasien to Menz ens ch wand (birthplace of Win- 
terhalter, the painter), at the head of the Albtbal, 6 miles. 

St. Blasien to Waldshut, Schnellpost, daily, 3^ hours. 

St. Blasien to the summit of the Feldberg, vid Men- 
zenschwand (see p. 154). 

St. Blasien to Wehrathal (p. 163). 

St. Blasien to the Wiesenthal (p. 159). 

ST. BLASIEN TO ALBBRUCK. 

(Schnellpost, daily, 3^ hours.) 

[If the traveller has already visited Hochenschwand 
(p. 145), he should proceed to Albbriick by the A lb thai all 
the way. If, however, he has not seen Hochenschwand, he 
should not omit to do so. The road leads by Hdusem to 
Mochenschwand (or the more direct footpath may be taken 
by the pedestrian). Thence the tourist will proceed by foot- 
path to Immeneich, or by the road (commanding fine views 
of Switzerland), vid Frohnschwandf Tie/enhdusern, and Brun- 
nadern to Niedermuhle^ where the Albthal route is joined a 
little beyond Immeneich (see p. 143).] 

Proceeding from St. Blasien by the direct route along the 

Albthal, the copper foundry at Kutterau is passed, and the 

old tower of Oberbildsiein. The little towns passed in the 

Albthal are situated in the old county of Hauenstein, also 

distinguished by the sobriquet of HosetAati^ ^^tefechftiland)^ 



ST. BLASIEN TO ALBBRtJCK. j^^ 

in consequence of the peculiar construction of the nether gar- 
ments of the male population. The poor and picturesquely- 
clad inhabitants of this district, whose history in old times 
was a perpetual struggle with the Abbots of Sackingen and 
St. Blasien, are chiefly engaged in weaving, spinning, wood- 
carving, and broom-making. 

After passing Immeneich (6 miles from St. Blasien), 
a village consisting of two or three houses and a few cruci- 
fixes, the Gorge of the Albthal is entered, and every 
turn in the road reveals a succession of beautiful scenes. 

At Medermuhle there is a route on the left by Brunna- 
dem to Hochenschwand (see p. 148), and also by Bannholz 
to Waldshut. On the right is a path to Wilfingen, on the 
heights above the Alb. The river winds through various 
rocky defiles, and the road (Albstrasse), completed in 1859, 
gradually rises till it winds high above it. In this respect 
there is a striking difference between the scenery of the 
Albthal and that of the Wehrathal. In the latter the road 
is low dowii in the valley, and the best views are obtained 
by looking upwards, whilst in the former the best views are 
obtained by looking down into the ravine. 

The steeple of Gorwyl is seen on the western heights. 
At Tiefenstein (12 miles from St. Blasien) are the ruins 
of the old castle destroyed by Rudolph of Habsburg. The 
wild and beautiful scenery of the Albthal culminates a little 
beyond Tiefenstein, where the precipitous rocks are pierced 
by ^ve tunnels in succession. 

At several places along the route projecting rocks are 
railed off, to enable travellers to get good views up and down 
the valley. Those who are driving will do well to leave the 
carriage from time to time at important bends of the road, 
and look back upon the places they have passed. 

After passing more rocks and i^tee\^\ce%, ^\A\fc:i^'^^ixcis^'^ 



-j^ THE BLACK FOREST. 

forest, a cheerful valley is reached, where the Alb is seen 
flowing through green pastures down to Albbriick. 

ALBBRUCK. 

At the Hotel Albthal, close to the station (although not 
a fashionable house) there is comfortable accommodation . 
the landlord is a civil, pleasant man, speaks French, and is 
about to enlarge his premises, probably by next season (1876) 
to meet the requirements of all travellers. Horses and 
carriages may be obtained here for the Forest, and very often 
return carriages to Freiburg, by hiring which the traveller will 
often save a great deal in the expense of the journey. 

Albbriick, once an important iron town, is a station on 
the line from Basle to Neuhausen. The traveller, returning 
from Switzerland, and wishing to break his journey, and 
make a tour through the Black Forest (for instance, to St. 
Blasien, and thence to Freiburg), will do well to halt here. 

There is good fishing in the neighbourhood, and the 
walks by the Rhine and Alb are extremely pretty. 

Albbriick to Basle (see p. 65). 

Albbriick to Waldshut and SchafFhausen (see p. 65). 

STERN (HOLLENTHAL) TO HOCHEN- 

8CHWAND. 

HoUenthal to Seebruck (see p. 140). 

Soon after leaving Seebruck, the road to St. Blasien is 
passed on the right (see p. 140) , and a wild part of the Forest 
is entered, with much bare stone on the hill slopes. 
Suddenly in the midst of exquisite scenery the vast pano- 
rama of the snow-clad Alps bursts upon the view. On a 
clear day this is one of the finest sights that can be conceived, 
and puts into the shade the much-praised view from the 



hOllenthal to hochenschwand, - 14 r 

terrace of the Federal Council House at Berne. The setting 
of the picture is exceedingly fine. Forest around, the valley 
lying deep below and narrowing to a gorge through which* 
a river runs in cataracts, and beyond, over a sea of foliage, 
the Alps. 

At the wooden village of Hdusern are two roads j that on 
the right leads to S. Blasien, that on the left to Hochen- 
schwand. 

HOCHENSCHWAND. 

The Hotel Maier (table d'h6te and wines excellent) is 
situated on a height commanding a view unsurpassed in 
the whole of the Black Forest. It comprises an unbroken 
view of the Alps from the Bavarian Tyrol to Mont Blanc. 
From the Belvedere of the Hotel, where a good telescope is 
kept, and a panorama prepared by M. Keller of Ziirich, 
the following mountains, etc., amongst innumerable others, 
can be distinctly seen. 

The Diademsberg, Rossbubl, Rhein Thai, Rothe Wand, 
Stoss, Rosenberg, Hirschberg, Madaun Spitz, Hanauerberg, 
Wisen, Fahnern, Kaltzberg, Drei Schwestern, Thiirme, 
Hohe Niedere, Umasch Tobel, Altmann, Santis, Scesa- 
plana, Prattigau, Grau Spitz, Bruderwald, Rothsteio> Hornli, 
the Churfirsten, Stoffel, Scheidegg, the Graue Horner, 
(Weissenberg, Piz Sol, Brandlisberg, etc.), MUrtschenstock, 
Orgeln, Fronalpstock, Ringel Spitz, Sardona, Piz Segnes, 
Tschingelspitzen (the Glamisch Alps), Hausstock, Fluh- 
berg or Diethelm Spitz, Riichi, Ortstock or Silberenstock, 
Bifertenstock or Piz Dargin, Uetliberg, Todi, Piz Russein, 
Clariden Stock, Wasserberg, Kammli Stock, Windgalle, 
Scheerhom, Kinzig Pass, Mythen, Kaiserstock, Engelstock, 
Faulen, Ross Stock, Klingenstock, Oberalpstock, Grosse 
Windgalle, Fronalp, Kl. Wind^alle, iL\^\-^QOvAxi^^'^^v^^^- 



1^6 THE BLACK FOREST. 

Stocky Rigi Scheideck^ Gutsch^ Rigi Kulm, Bliimisalpgrat, 
Blumisalpgletscher, Rigi-Staffel, Rigi-Rothstock^ Blaken- 
stock, Uri Rothstock, Seeboden, Schlossberg, Gross Span- 
nort, Engelberger-Rothstock, Urner Brisen^ Klein Spannort, 
Satteli Stocky Buochser Horn, Richtung (near St. Gotthard), 
Biirgen Stock, Sustenhorn, Titlis, Schneestock, Schneekopf, 
Reisend Nollen, Joch Pass, Thierberge, Grau Horn, Stan- 
zerhorn, Bliimisalp, Galenstock, Trift Glacier, Pilatus, 
Klimsenhom, Hoh Ritzli Horn, Graugrat, Weissgrat, Roth- 
hom, Hubelhorn, Oberaar Horn, Dossen, Engelhorn, Rosen- 
laui Glacier, Schneewighorn, Berglistock, Wellhom, Fin- 
steraarhorn, Gr. Lauteraar Horn, Gr. Schreckhorn, Wetter- 
homer, Rosen Horn, Mittelhom, Wetterhom, Schwarzwald 
Glacier, Klein Schreckhorn, Wandel Horn, Gr. Griin Horn 
or Wall-Viescher Horner, Grindelwald Viescher Homer, 
Unter Grindalwald Glacier, Wildgerst, Bramegg, Rothhorn 
(by Brienz), Eiger, Monch, Rothi Horn, Simeli Horn, Faul- 
hom, Brienzer Grat, Gletscher Horn, Jungfrau, Schnee 
Horn, Silber Horn, Gisalafluh, Mittag Horn, Schmadri 
Glacier, Gross Horn, Breit Horn, Bielsch Horn, Tschingel 
Horn, Tschingel-Grat or Lauterbunnen Eiger, Weiss Horn 
(by Randa), Schilt Horn, BlUmlisalp or Frau, Freunden 
Horn, Dolden Horn, Balm Horn, Pigne d'Arolla or Siid- 
wallis, Gemmi Pass, Kander Thai, Weiss Horn, Bettfluh, 
Gletscher Horn, Wild Horn, Stock Hom, Ob. Stockenfluh, 
Widderfeldgrat, Olden Horn, Diablerets, Mont Blanc. 

The course of the following Swiss valleys can be plainly 
seen : the Rhein Thai, Walensee Thai, Linth Thai, Semf 
Thai, Klon Thai, Waggi Thai, Ob-Zuricher Seethal, Hint, 
Sihl Thai, Umerboden, Bisi Thai, Muotta Thai, Schachen 
Thai, Aegeri See Thai, Riemenstalder Thai, Goldau Thai, 
Isen Thai, Valley of Lake Lucerne, Engelberger Thai, 
Melch Thai, Alpnacher See Thai, Urbach Thai, Sempacher- 



hOchenschwand. 147 

see Thai, Entlen Thai, Brienzer See Thai, Kl. Emme Thai, 
Entlebuch, Lauterbninnen, Emmen Thai, Oeschinen Thai, 
Luthem Thai, Adelboden, Thuner See Thai, Diemtiger Thai, 
and Valley of the Sense. 

The above are amongst the more distant objects in the 
prospect. In the nearer foreground are seen the Hohe 
Tanne, Frauenfeld, Thuldermurg, Bettwiesen Schloss, Isli- 
ken, Wil, Aadorf, Haselberg, Buhwald, Schauenberg, Biihl, 
parts of the valleys of the Thur and Rhine, Kyburg, the 
Toss Thai, Hinwel, Winkel, Louth Thai, Ksiisenberg, Ob. 
Windeck, the Greifensee, Wallisellen, Riediken, Adlis- 
berg, Pfannenstiel, Egg, Regensberg, part of the Rhine, 
Wehnthal, Lagern, Schversinger-Berg, Zurzach, Zurzach- 
erberg, Ehrendigen, Gubel Kloster, Rossberg, Zager- 
berg, Goldau Thai, Hasenberg, Siggisberg, Bremgarten, 
Ructerberg, Siggenthal, Muri, part of the Aare, Rothberg, 
Lindenberg, Hochrain, Guggler, Bruneck Erlasen, Stautberg, 
Linnberg, Wunnberg, Wasserfliih, Giessfluh, Kienberg, 
Burgberg, Wisenberg, Thiersteinberg. 

The village of Hochenschwand is the highest in the 
Duchy of Baden (3402 feet). It consists simply of a church 
(uninteresting), a straw hat manufactory, a good general 
store, where the tourist may fit himself out with most things 
required by tourists, and the Hotel Maier, which has been 
recently built at a great expense, and is fitted up with every 
comfort and luxury. In the reading-room adjoining the 
Salon is an orchestron, a magnificent instrument, by Bless- 
ing of Frerenbach. It is of great value, having cost sS^oo, 
and being the best work of the best maker. The instru- 
ment, in tone, compass, and appliances, is able to produce 
the effect of a good band of music. It is usually played 
towards the end of the table d'hote, and is well worth a special 
journey to hear. 



1^8 THE BLACK FOREST. 

Mr. Maier, the proprietor, speaks English, and will be 
happy to give visitors every information about the locality. 

A new road is in course of construction from Hochen- 
schwand through the Schleisthal, and is expected to be opened 
in 1877. 

Another new road is being made by Amyschwand, Sega- 
len, and Witznau, and then by the river Schluct, past fine 
ruins of castles, to Uehlingen. This road will bring Witz- 
nau within two hours', and Uehlingen within three hours' 
ride of Hochenschwand. It will be one of the finest roads 
in the Black Forest, and is expected to be opened this year 
(1876). 

HOCHENSCHWAND TO WALD8HUT, 

The direct road between these two places is by Frohn- 
schwand, Tiefenhausern, Waldkirch, and Gurtweil; but it is 
far preferable for the tourist intent on getting to Waldshut 
to go by the Albthal to Albbriick (see p. 143), and then pro- 
ceed to Waldshut by train. 

'Waldshut (see p. 65). 

Waldshut to Turgi and Ziirich (see Cook's Tourist*s 
Handbook to Switzerland), 

HOCHENSCHWAND TO ALBBRUCK. 

A footpath may be taken direct to Immeneich, but the 
road is by Frohnschwand to Tiefenhausen. A little chapel 
soon comes in view, and a turning to the right is taken by 
Brunnadern to Niedermuhle, the next hamlet to Immeneich 
in the Albthal. Here commences the finest part of the 
Albthal (see p. 143), which increases in beauty and grandeur 
till Albbriick is reached. Time for pedestrians, 4 to 5 
hours. 



TRIBERG TO FURTWANGEN. j^g 

HbCHENSOHWAND TO T0DTM008 AND 

WEHR. 

Hochenschwand to Todtmoos, 3 hours 3 Todtmoos to 
Wehr, 3 hours. Tourists not intending to explore the whole 
of the "Wehrathal (see p. 161) should by all means make 
this excursion. In order fully to enjoy the beauty of this 
most interesting trip, it is strongly recommended that the 
journey should be made from Todtmoos to Wehr, not from 
Wehr to Todtmoos. 

HOCHENSCHWAND TO ST. BLASIEN. 

The carriage-road leads by Hausern, then branching off 
to the left, a little beyond the Gasthaus Kaiser. There is 
a quicker route, for pedestrians only, by a footpath from 
Hochenschwand, direct to St. Blasien. 

Gradually descending by the road from Hausern, the 
Albthal is seen below on the left, and a peep at St. Blasien 
is obtained. Passing some waterworks, the level of the 
valley is reached, and the waterfall Tusculum is seen on 
the left of the road. 

St. Blasien (see p. 140). 

TRIBERG TO FURTWANGEN. 

A winding road ascends from Triberg, but a short cut 
can be taken by the path to the right of the waterfall. In 
about a quarter of an hour the Wallfahrtskirche, or Pilgrim- 
age Church, is reached. Behind it will be found a refreshing 
spring of water. One of the last monks of St. Georgen 
wrote a history of this church, replete with legends of 
miracles and marvels of . various kinds. The site of the 
chapel which preceded this church was chosen in consequence 
of the discovery of a natural -^oliaa har^ la tk^^ ^va^.-^^-^^. 



I CO THE BLACK FOREST. 

The church, completed in 1 709, has since continued to he 
visited by immense numhers of pilgrims. 

At this point there is a road on the right to Schonach, and 
thence through the Prechthal to Elzach (p. 151). 

Sch.dn'wald is reached in about an hour and a quarter 
from Triberg. There are several factories of clocks and 
articles of wood. It was here that the celebrated Black 
Forest clocks were first produced. There is a handsome 
church. The streams in the vicinity abound in trout. 

From Schonwald there is a pleasant road by the Mar- 
tinskapelle and the Briglirain, and thence by either the 
Griesbach Valley or the Nonnenbachthal into the Simons- 
wald (p. 150), in about three hours. The Martinskapelle has 
been turned into a workman's dwelling. From the Descheck 
there are beautiful views of the Alb, the Henberg, the 
Tyrolean Alps, etc. 

Ascending from Schonwald, the road reaches its cul- 
minating point at the inn Zum Kreuz, on the water-shed 
between the Rhine and Danube. The distant prospect is 
very fine. Two roads descend from the pass to Furtwangen ; 
the old one to the right is preferable for pedestrians. 

FURTWANGEN 

(Angel Hotel) 

(3 hours from Triberg) is a thriving industrial town of 
3000 inhabitants, on the river Brege. Hence are exported 
the best clocks and watches produced in the Black Forest. 
There are several large manufactories of these articles 
which are generally readily shown to visitors. There is also 
an interesting exhibition of the industrial products of the 
Black Forest, in which all that is best in each department of 
skill and labour can be leisurely inspected. The church is 
a Bne modem erection, and has a good ^eal of bells. 



FURTWANGEN TO WALDKIRCH. j^i 

A pleasant excursion from Purtwangen, for which a guide 
is desirable, is by the Kilbenstrasse as far as the £cke^ and 
up the eminence called the Brend. Those not intending to 
go on by the Simonswald to Waldkirch should> if time 
admits, visit Ober Simonswald and the Zweribach Waterfall 

(P- 151)- 

From Furtwangen a road (12 miles) leads by Vohrenbach 

to Villingen. 

Fron^ Furtwangen the traveller may proceed by Guten- 

bach (see below) to St. Margen (p. 135), and so to the H61- 

lenthal (p. 135). 

FURTWANGEN TO WALDKIRCH AND 

DENZLINGEN. 

The road leads by Kilben to Giitenbach. A mountain 
pass is crossed, from which there are splendid views. 

Giitenbach is full of watchmakers, like many places 
in this district. The Kandel (p. 1 52) can be ascended from 
this point 5 but it is more usually done from Waldkirch. 
St. Margen (p. 135) is a short distance to the south. 

The beautiful Falls of the Zweribach are seen 
from several points in the road 3 they can be best visited for 
closer inspection by alighting at the inn, Zum Engel, and 
crossing the Gutach to the Zweribach Valley. It will take 
an hour and a half to reach the Falls from the inn. 

Proceeding by the road Ober Simonswald and Unter 
Simonswald^ in the charming Simonswald Valley, are 
passed. The mountains to the left are the Tafelbiihl, form- 
ing the base of the Kandel. 

At B ley bach, the route from Waldkirch to Elzach, by 
the Elzthal, is joined. From Bleybach to Elzach is six 
miles. Thence there are routes to Haslach (p. 76), Hau- 
sach (p. 77), Homberg (p. 85), or Triberg (5* 89V 



152 THE BLACK FOREST. 

From Bleybach to Waldkirch, the route is to the south- 
west, by Gutach and Kollnau. 

WALDKIRCH 

(Hotel Poste) 

(18 miles from Furtwangen) is a prosperous manufacturing 
town, of 2 joo inhabitants, on the Elz, at the foot of the 
Xandel. The Rathhaus is a fine edifice in the style of the 
Renaissance. The interesting old fortress of Kastelberg, and 
the ruins of Schwarzenberg Castle, are near the town. 

The Kandel (4078 feet) requires three hours for the 
ascent. A guide (i fl.) is desirable. The view is very 
grand. 

From Waldkirch to the Railway Station at Denzlingen 
is under four miles. A poste omnibus runs several times 
a day. The baths of Suggenthal are passed en route. 

Denzlingen to Baden or Freiberg, by rail (see p. 39). 

From Denzlingen, there is a route by the Glotterthal to 
St. Peter's, and thence to the Hollenthal route (see p. 135), 
by either the Eschbachthal or the Ibenthal. 

FREIBURG TO TODTNAU AND THE 

FELDBERG. 

Freiburg to Zarten (see p. 134). 

From Zarten to Am Nothschrei (see p. i35)- 

Am Nothschrei (3306 feet) may also be reached from 
Freiburg by Gunthersthal, Horben, the Schauins land (p. 53), 
and Halden, 

From Nothschrei, the road descends to the Upper 
Wfesenthal by Muggenhrunn and Aftersteg. Near the Todt- 
nauherg is the Waterfall (over 300 feet), formed by the Bre- 
genbacb, rushing down from the Feldberg. 



THE FELDBERG. I53 

TODTNAU 

(Hotel Ochsen) 

at an elevation of 2100 feet, is a prosperous and pictur- 
esquely-situated town, with a population of about 1300, 
of whom many are employed in the large factories of 
paper, cotton, and brushes. There is carriage communica- 
tion with Schonau (p. ij8), Schopfheiin (p. 160), Wehr 
(p. 162), St. Blasien (p. 140), Todtmoos (p. 161), etc. 

Todtnau to Schopfheim, by the Wiesenthal (see p. i jp). 

Todtnau to Brennet, by the Wehrathal (see p. 161). 

Todtnau to St. Blasien (see p. 163). 

THE FELDBERG. 

(High Mountain Station. Hotel Feldbergerhof.) 

The ascent or descent of the Feldberg can be accom- 
plished by either of the following routes, which tourists can 
adopt according to their own convenience : — 

From Todtnau (see above), by the Brandenberger 
Thai, and past the Wasserloch Waterfall and the hamlet of 
Fahl 5 then by the Todtnauer Hiitte (refreshments, etc.), 
to the summit. 

From Todtnau, by the Todtnau Waterfall and Todt- 
nauberg. This is a longer route, and a guide is desirable. 

From the Titi See (p. 139). A boat to the upper end 
of the Titi See lands the visitor at the Brilderhalde. Follow 
the course of the Seebach, and pass through Bdrenthal, to 
the Adler Inn. Then ascend, with beautiful retrospective 
views and fine surroundings of rock and forest, to the Men- 
zenschwander Hiitte, and then to the Feldberg Inn and 
summit. A detour can be made to the Feldberg See. 

From Hinterzarten by the Erlenburg to the Bftrenthal, 
joining the previous route at the Adler ItYtL, 



I^^ THE BLACK FOREST. 

From the Schluclisee (p. 140), by Aha and Altglas- 
hiitte, to the Barenthal route. 

From Oberried (p. 135), i, by the St. Wilhelmsthal 
and the St. Wilhelmer Hiitte. a, By the Zastlerthai, Auf 
dent Rinken^ and Baldenweger Viehhutte, 3, By the Todten." 
mann. 

From the Stern Inn (p. 137), Hollenthal; by Albers- 
bach, the Gaschpels Hof, and Auf dem Rinken. 

From Menzenschwand, ascending the course of the 
Alb, joining the Titi See route at the Menzenschwander 
Hiitte. 

The Feldberg is the highest mountain in the Black 
Forest, being jooo feet high. It can be ascended without 
much difficulty by either of the above routes. When the 
weather is clear, the view of the Alps, the Jura, and the 
Vosges in the distance, and the mountains of the Black Forest 
all around is very magnificent. 

On the summit of the mountain is a tower 28 feet high, 
called the Friedrich Louisen Thurm, erected in honour of the 
betrothal of the Grand Duke Frederick of Baden to the 
Princess Louisa of Prussia. , 

The Seebuck (4760 feet) is a place with seats, half 
an hour's walk from the simimit. The view hence is very 
picturesque. The Feldbergsee encircled by mountain and 
forest, is seen below, beyond that the Barenthal, the Seebach 
river, and part of the Titi See, with the mountains of Suabia 
and the Hohgau in the distance. 

The Feldbergsee is a weird-looking lake, in the very 
heart of the Feldberg, and, like the mountain itself, the scene 
of strange legends. 

'^ Nothing could well be more lovely or melancholy,'* 
says the author of "In Silk Attire," *'than this dark and 
silent lake lying in its circular bed — evidently an extinct 



BADENWEILER. 1 55 

volcanic crater — overshadowed by tall and perpendicular 
crags hemming it in on every side, and scarcely ever having 
a breath of wind to stir its leaden-like surface. The tall, 
thinly-clad rocks, rising to the circular breadth of white sky 
above, were faintly mirrored in the black water underneath 5 
and the gloomy stillness of the quite motionless picture was 
not relieved by the least stir or sound of any living thing. 
This hideous hole, its surface nearly four thousand feet 
above the level of the sea, is of unknown depth ; no wonder 
that the superstitious Schwarzwalders have legends about it, 
and that the children tell you of the demon deer that was 
wont to spring over the tall precipices above, and so lure on 
the unwary huntsman and his horse to destruction." 

BADENWEILER 

is reached in an hour's walk or drive from the railway station 
at Miilheim (see p. 54). An omnibus meets most of the 
trains. 

Badenweiler is a picturesque little watering place with 
about joo permanent inhabitants, and attracting about 3000 
bathers annually. It is situated on one of the spurs of the 
Black Forest, running down to the Valley of the Rhine, 
1400 feet above the sea level, and nearly 750 feet above the 
Rhine. 

The waters of Badenweiler are used externally and in- 
ternally 5 and the goats* milk and whey cures are largely 
used as adjuncts. Hotels and pensions for the accommoda- 
tion of visitors are plentiful. 

In the Cursaal is a fine Trinkhalle, besides a ball- 
room, concert-room, reading-room, etc. The well was dug 
in 1685. The present building was erected in 1853, after 
designs by Eisenlohr. In front \s 2Ltox«i\aivcL^''^Cc^\i^^'^^^55e» \ 



156 THE BLACK FOREST. 

on one side Jesus and the Woman of Samaria at the Well, 
on the other side, Moses striking the Rock. 

From the Cursaal a small Park extends to the slope of a 
hill, whereon stand the ivy-clad ruins of a castle built in 
1586, by the Margraves of Baden, on the site of an old 
Roman edifice. It was destroyed by the French in 1678. 
Fine views. 

North-west of the Cursaal are the ancient Roman 
Baths discovered in 1784, measuring 320 feet by ico feet; 
with the pavements and steps and walls, etc., still in good pre- 
servation. The various arrangements for parboiling, steaming, 
cooling, and anointing the gentlemen of the period are 
readily distinguishable. On the altar is an inscription dedi- 
cating the baths to Diana Abnoba. 

ENVIRONS OF BADENWEILER. 

There are many capital walks and excursions in the 
neighbourhood of Badenweiler. 

The Sopllienrulie (Sophia's rest) is an open space in 
the Forest to the south-east of Badenweiler. The old castle 
and the town form a charming foreground of a very fine 
prospect. 

The Alte Mann, a rocky height, easily accessible by 
steps and bridges, is another point from which to procure a 
delightful view. 

ScMoss Burgeln, reached by way of Haus-Baden and 
Schringen along a pleasant route well supplied with guide* 
posts, is a very interesting spot to visit. It was formerly the 
priory appertaining to the Abbey of St. Blasien (p. 141), 
there are numerous pictures of St. Blasien and other 
worthies, temporal and spiritual 3 also busts of Maria Theresa 
^nd her husband Francis, aud oXhet \i\s\.Qidcai characters. 



THE BELCHEN. jrj 

The views of the Schwarzwald, part of Switzerland^ and the 
upper Rhine Valley are very fine. 

From Burgeln to the station at Schliengen (p. jj) is 6 
miles. 

From Burgeln to Basle by Kandern is 17 miles. 

The Blauen (3832 feet) can be ascended in two hours 
easily. Donkeys can be used if desired. The view chiefly 
consists of the plain of the Rhine from the Kaiserstuhl to 
Basle. The sunset effects are highly spoken of. 

The Blauen can be visited en route from Baden weiler to 
Schopfheim, proceeding by Maishurg, Tegemau, Wieslet, and 
Langenau. 

BADENWEILER TO KROTZINGEN BY THE 
BELCHEN AND MUNSTERTHAL 

To ascend the Belchen from Badenweiler, a guide is not 

absolutely needed, but it may prove useful to have one. 

The ascent will occupy five hours. The descent to Neu- 

muhl in the Miinsterthal two hours. From Neumiihl it is 

. nine miles to Krotzingen. 

The route to the Belchen is by the Klenunbach Valley, 
passing Schweighof \i\\2Lge and the forester* s house at Simitz, 
Sattel and An der Halde, where the road to Neuenweg is 
left to the right, are next passed. Near Heubronn the 
path leading directly to the summit, is reached. 

THE BELCHEN 

(High Mountain Station. Rasthaus Belchen) 

(4541 feet) affords a view less extensive than that from the 
Feldberg, but more varied. In the foreground, the Miinster- 
thal, Wiesenthal, and Rhine Valley lie outspread in pictur- 
esque beauty. The distant views ai^ m cVt"» ^^aJScissx \fias|^ 



I c8 THE BLACK FOREST. 

nificent^ comprising the various mountains in the Black 
Forest, the Vosges, the Juras, and the Alps. Amongst the 
latter^ Mont Blanc, the Diablerets, Jungfrau, Monch, Eiger, 
Finsteraarhorn, Schreckhorn, Wetterhorn, Titlis, Todi, and 
Glamisch are conspicuous. 

From the Belchen Heitersheim station (p. 54) can be 
reached by way of Salzburg ; or Schonau, in the Wiesenthal, 
by way of Schonneberg and Aitem, 

From the Belchen to the Miinsterthal, the descent is 
first to the Sennhutte in der Krinne, where the old road from 
the Miinsterthal to the Wiesenthal is reached (see below). 
Then descend by a rough forest road, and through a valley 
past an exhausted silver mine to Neumuhl. 

From this point the traveller may proceed through the 
Unter-Miinsterthal to Wasen and thence to Staufen, with 
the ruins* of the Staufenburg, and producing good " Burg- 
halder *' wine in the vicinity. 

Krotzingen, nine miles from Neumuhl, a station on 
the Freiburg and Basle railway (see p. 54) . 

From Wasen there is a route through the Ober Miinster- 
thal to Utxenfeld in the Wiesenthal. It passes St. Trudpert 
(ancient monastery) and Am Spielweg. Here the excellent 
new road turns to the south and winds through much romantic 
and picturesque scenery, past the robber's castle of Scharfen- 
stein to Wiedereneck. This is the culminating point of 
the road (339J feet). Hence there is a circuitous descent 
through JVieden to Utxenfeld (see p. i jp). 

This last route may be reversed by coming from the 
Sennhutte in der Krinne (see above) by the road to Wiedere- 
neck, and then traversing the Ober Miinsterthal to Wasen, 
proceeding to Krotzingen as above. 



sch5nau. 



159 



TODTNAU TO SCHOPFHEIM- 

Todtnau (see p. 153). 

This route is by the Wiesenthal,a narrow, picturesque 
valley with woods in abundance, clothing the hills on either 
side. It is watered by the river Wiese, which runs down 
from the Seebruck, a spur of the Feldberg, and, after passing 
the hamlet of Fahl, near the Rothwiese Cascade, flows down 
the Brandenberger Thai to Todtnau. 

The first places passed are Schlechtnau and Geschwdnd, 
Here the road from Todtnau by Prag to St. Blasien diverges. 

The Praghach and Wtese are crossed and Utzenfeld is 
reached. 

Utzenfeld by the Miinsterthal to Krotzingen (see p. i j8). 

Passing Schonenbuchen, the next town reached is 

SCHONAU 

(Hotel Sonne), 

pleasantly situated at the east base of the Belchen, at an 
altitude of about 1800 feet, and containing 1200 inhabitants. 
It is a busy place. 

The Belchen can be ascended from Schonau in i^ hours 
by taking the path from the Inn Zur Sonne, and passing 
Schaneberg. Finger-posts numerous 5 guide unnecessary, 

Leaving Schonau, the Wiesenthal presents a succession 
of rocky glens, through which the road winds, passing the 
cotton factory at Weinbach, Here a road to the left leads by 
Neuenweg and Oberheubronn to Oberweiler and Miillheim. 

Mambach is next reached, at the foot of the Hochblauen, 
a mountain 3520 in height. The road to the east leads by 
the Angenbach Thai to Todtmoos. 

Passing Atzenbach, the prettiest part of the valley is 
reached, in the neighbourhood of the ^los.'^TOx^SkXSbas^^K^s^- 



1 6o THE BLACK FOREST. 

ing town of Zell im Wiesenthal. There are splendid 
distant views from the adjacent Zeller Blauen. Ascent, i^ 
hours. 

By the large Government foundry at Hausen the valley 
opens. Here we leave a Roman Catholic district for a Pro- 
testant one. In this village is shown the house where 
Hebel, the popular poet of the Black Forest, was born. In 
front of the church there is a statue of him, which was 
erected in i860. 

SCHOPFHEIM 

(Hotel Three Kings) 

is an important little trading town of some 2000 inhabi- 
tants. Near the railway station are some pleasant grounds, 
with a temple and bust of Hebel, called the Hebelshohe. 

A diligence runs twice daily by Hasel (p. 162) and Wehr 
(p. 162) to Brennet (p. 163). 

SCHOPFHEIM TO BASLE. 

(By railway, jo minutes.) 

There are several stations on this short railway, which 
traverses the lower and wider portion of the WiesenthaL 
Numerous factories are seen on the journey. Leaving the 
valley of the Belchener Wiese to the right, Maulhurg is 
passed, and then Steinen. From Steinen there is a route to 
Schlachtenhaus and Kandern (p. 157). Ncbt Haagen, on the 
right, is seen ScWoss Rotteln, one of the largest castles 
in Baden. It was restored in 1867, having been blown up 
by the French in 1678. The Margraves of Baden succeeded 
the Margraves of Hochberg in the possession of this ancient 
but now renovated edifice. The Castle of Brombach is also 
to the right of the railway. 



THE WEHRATHAL, l6l 

LORRACH 

(Hirsch Hotd) 
(pop. 4100) is the chief town in the Wiesenthal, ^and has 
large manufactories of clothe etc. There is a road from 
here to Rotterweiler, at the foot of Schloss Rotteln (see 
above) and Kandem (p. 157). Another road from Lorrach 
leads by Degerfelden to Rheinfelden (p. 64). 

South of Lorrach is the Tullinger Hohe, or St. 
Ottilia. From various parts splendid views of the mountains 
of the Black Forest, Switzerland, and Alsace. General 
Villars was made a Marshal after a victory over the Grermans 
in this locality. 

Proceeding by railway, Switzerland is entered at Stetten 
station. At Riehen are some interesting philanthropic insti- 
tutions — a Deaf and Dumb Asylum, a Protestant Sisters* 
Training School, and a Missionary Institution, formerly the 
Pilgrim Church of St. Chrischona. The latter is on an 
eminence commanding very extensive prospects into Switzer- 
land, etc. Through villa-sprinkled suburbs the train runs into 
Klein-Basel (p. 55). 

Basle (see p. 55). 

TODTNAU TO BRENNET BY THE 

WEHRATHAL. 

Todtnau to Greschwand, where the Wiesenthal route is 

left on the right (p. 159). The road then follows the course 

of the Pragbach, but before reaching Prag, the traveller must 

diverge from the St. Blasien road (p. 159) , and descend to Yor- 

der Todtmoos (2693 feet), passing Herrenschwand on the- 

right. At Todtmoos is a pilgrim church, of great repute in 

Switzerland, as well as amongst the dwellers in the Black 

Forest. Above the church towers the Hochkopf (4160 feet),. 

which can be ascended by way of Riitli, The Sunday and 

f^te-day costumes in this district are very remarkable. From 

II 



l62 THE BLACK FOREST. 

the Hochkopf flows the Wehra, which gives its name to the 
lovely valley now being travecsed. 

From Todtmoos there is a road by Angenbachthal to 
Mambach (p. 159), in the Wiesenthal^ a charming excursion 
for the pedestrian. 

The road from Todtmoos by Mutterslebenj and through 
the Steinachthal to St. Blasien, displays a grand panorama of 
the Alps. 

Passing La Wanne, with its school^ Todtmoos-Au is next 
reached. 

At Todtmoos- Au conmiences the wonderful Welira- 
Strasse, a road constructed in 1848, almost destroyed by 
floods in 1850, but again restored. The Wehrathal, 
between this pdnt and Wehr^ is a grandly romantic glen, 
exceedingly varied in its beauties, and considered by some to 
hold the first rank among the Black Forest valleys. It is a 
mingling of barren rocks and luxuriant vegetation, craggy 
precipices and dense pine-woods, with the river rushing be- 
side the road along its narrow and granite-strewn channel: . 
The scenery culminates* at Sonnenhluck. The ruins of 
Barenfels are seen on a lofty rock where the valley widens. 

WEHR 

(Hotel Krone) 

(pop. aooo), twelve miles from Todtmoos, is a prosperous 
industrial village, with foundries, etc., and the Castle of 
Werrach in ruins. 

About a mile and a half from Wehr, and half a mile 
from the village of Hasel (p. 160), is the Erdmdnnleinhohle, 2l 
stalactite cavern. Fee, 30 kr. As is usual in caverns of this 
character, various stalactite formations are denominated the 
organ, the dungeon, the chapel, etc. Travellers bound for 
Schopfheim (p. 160) can go direct by a good road from Hasel. 



NEUSTADT. I fij 

Oeflingen, with its large calico-printing factory, is passed 
a little to the south of Wehr, and then Brennet (Hotel 
Werrathal) is reached on the Basle and SchafFhausen Railway 
(p. 64). 

TODTNAU TO ST. BLA8IEN. 

From Todtnau (p. 153), by Schlechtnau and Geschwdnd^ 
as in the Wiesenthal route (p. 159) 5 then beside the Pragbach 
to Prag^ leaving the Wehrathal route diverging to Todtmoos 
on the right. 

Prdg is on the north base of the Hochkopf (4160 feet) 5 
close by in the Pragbach river is a small cascade. The tra- 
veller now ascends to the summit of the pass, 3201 feet, on 
the ridge dividing the basin of the Wiese from that of the 
Alb. On the right are the Hochkopf and the Blossling 
(4265 feet), and on the left the Giesiboden (4087 feet). The 
descent is through the hamlet-sprinkled pastoral valley of 
Bernau, passing Dorf, Inner lehen, and Kaisershaus, and join- 
ing the road from Menzenschwand (p. 142), at a bridge 
across the Alb, 3 miles before reaching St. Blasien. 

St. Blasien (see p. 140). 

HOLLENTHAL TO DONAUESGHINGEN, 

At Altenweg (p. 138), 2i miles from the Stern Inn, take 
the road to the left. 

NEUSTADT 

(Hotel Poste) 

is situated on the Wutach, 17 miles from Freiburg, with a 
population of about 1700. It has an industrial school. 
Clocks, straw-plait, sail-cloth, and woollen goods, are the 
chief productions of the town. A tile-work machine factory 
and some saw-mills and oil-mills are also in operatioa hsx.^^ 



164 THE BLACK FOREST. 

The road passes through a forest, and over some rocks of 
porphyiy, to the R6thenbacher Schanze (3149 feet), where 
Moreau was defeated by the Austrians in i jg6. 

Rothenhach is passed, and then Loffingen, where there is 
a road to Bonndorf (p. 16^), on the right. Crossing the 
Gauchach, Doggingen is reached. The prospect from the 
Loretto Chapel is very fine. 

Huflngen (pop. 1700). This place originally belonged 
to a noble family of the same name^ but was sold to the 
Counts of Fiirstenberg in 161 8. The palace was turned 
into a hospital. In the Castle is the studio of Xavier Reich 
the sculptor, and a collection of Keltic, Roman and German 
antiquities, including an ancient sarcophagus found in the 
Titi See. The remains of a Roman settlement are to be 
seen about fifteen minutes' walk from Hiifingen. Many 
Roman antiquities dug up here were removed to the museum 
at Donaueschingen. 

From Hiifingen the road to the north leads by Bregen- 
hack and Yolirenbach (Hotel Kreuz) to Furtwangen 
(p. 150) or Triberg (p. 89) 5 that to the south leads by 
Zollhaus to Schaffhausen (p. 69). 

Donaueschingen (see p. gs). 

THE HOLLENTHAL TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. 

From the Stern Inn to the Titi See (see p. 139). 

From the Titi See the old and new roads converge near 
Muhlingen, in the Falkauerthal. Passing the Schlossmuhle^ 
and ruins of Urach, the traveller arrives at 

LENZKIRCH 

(Hotel Poste), 

a town which is full of interest for those who take pleasure 
in observiog the industries of the people. Clock-makers 



LENZKIRCH TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. jg^ 

straw-plaiters, and makers of musical instruments abound 
here, and will willingly let the tourist inspect the arts and 
mysteries of their craft. 

Leaving Lenzkircb, the forest plain of Saatfeld is crossed. 
Holzschlag and Gundelwangen are passed^ and then Bonn- 
dorf. Here there is a statue of Martin Grerbert, Abbot of 
St. Blasien. Near the village, in clear weather, there is a 
capital view of the chain of the Alps, from the Bliimlisalp 
to the Santis. Wellendingen is next passed -, then the barren 
Stuhlinger Alp is crossed ; then, passing the Prince of Fiirst- 
enberg's Castle of Hohen Lupfen, Stuhlingen is reached, on 
the Wutach. The bridge across the river is the boundary 
between Baden and Switzerland. There is a road along the 
valley of the Wutach to Thiengen (p. 65). The first Swiss 
village reached is Schldtheim, with quarries of gypsum in 
the vicinity j thence the route is by Biblingen^ LohningeUp 
Engenbrunnerif and Neukausen (p. 66). 

Schaffliausen (see p. 69). 




APPENDIX. 



FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC. 

[Some time since, a good article in Macmtllan^s Magazine called 
attention to the want of a Traveller's Calendar, which should 
indicate the principal Festivals, etc., on the Continent of Europe. 
The present list is founded upon the data given in that article, 
and it is hoped it will be useful to the traveller. The Editor 
will feel much indebted to those of his friends who will kindly 
favour him with information of other events of interest to add to 
the list.] 

Place. Date. Description. 

Adelsberg Whit-Monday. . . Peasants* Ball in the Caverns. Illumi- 
nated. 

Aix - la- Cha - July 10-24 Exhibition of Relics in Cathedral every 

pelle 7 years. Next Exhibition, 1881. 

Whitsun-week . The " Niederrheinische Musikfest'* 
Amsterdam ... 2nd Monday in Festivities of the Kermesse commence. 

Sept and continue for a fortnight. 

Annecy (Savoy) Jan. 29. Festival of St. Francis de Sales. 

Antwerp Simday follow- Kermesse, Procession of Giant in 

ing Aug. 15... Rubens' Car. 

Carnival for three days preceding Ash- 
Wednesday. 

Assisi Aug. I and 2 ... Grand Festivals. 

Oct 14 Festival of St Francis. 

Augsburg April 10 Commencement of Fair, which con- 
tinues for a fortnight. 

Avellino Whit-Sunday . . . Pilgrimage to Monte Vei^ine. Popular 

Fetes. At Mercogliano, dances of 
peasants. (5 days.) 

Bari (S. Italy) . . . May S. Nicholas. Pilgrimage to shrine. 

Miraculous manna exuded. 

Basle Aug. 26 Commemoration of battle of St 

Jacques. 
Batersalp (Swit- July 25th or Sun- Wrestling Matches, 
zerland) day following. 



1 68 APPENDIX. 

Place. Date. Description. 

Beaucaire (on July Great Fair. (Beaucaire is near Tans- 
Rhone) con.) 

Bergamo Middle Aug. to Fair. 

middle Sept 
Black Forest. End Aug., be- "Raft Parties "at WHdbad and dse- 

ginning Sept where. 

Bologna Dec. 3 St, Francis Xavier, Fete at Sta. Lada. 

Bra Sept 8 Pilgrimage to Sanctuary of Madomia 

dei Fiore. 

Bremen Nov. 6 Festival 

Bruges ist Sun. in Lent Great day of the CamivaL 

1st Sim. in May Festival 

Brussels Jan. 8 Ste, Gudule, Festival at Ste. Gudule. 

July 13 or Sun- Procession of miraculous wafers in StCi 
day following. Gudule. 

Sept 23 Requiem Mass in Ste. Gudule. Fftes 

de Septembre from 23 — 26. 

Canoello (S. July 26 Annual Festival in honour of S. Fan- 

Italy) linus, who invented church bdls. 

Games, processions, etc. 

Catania (Sicily) Feb. 3- C Festival of Sta. Agata. 

Aug. 18-21 „ „ 

Coire (Chur) ... Ascension Day . Popular Fetes. 

Cologne Carnival for three days before Ash- 

Wednesday. 
Whitsun-week . The " Neiderrheinische Musikfest" 
Courtrai (Bel- Carnival for three days before Ash- 

pium) Wednesday. 

^insiedeln Jan. 21 Festival of St Meinrad. 

(Switzerland) 

Sept 14 Festival of the Engel Weihe. Mass out 

of doors. Illuminations. 
JIngStlenalp July 26th or Sun- 

(nr. Meiringen) day following. Wrestling Matches. 
!£nnetegg (in Lt. Sun. in Aug., 

the EnUSuch) istSun.inSep. Wrestling Match. 

Florence Easter Eve Fireworks in Piazza del Duomo. **Lo 

scoppio del Carro." 

March 25 Annunciation, Festival at Annunziata 

Church. 

June 23 Eve of St, John, Races and Fireworks. 

„ 24 St, John Baptist, High Mass in 

Duomo. Races. Illuminations. 

Aug. 10 St, Lorenzo, Festival in all Churches in 

Italy bearing his name. 
„ 15 Assumption of Virgin, Musical Ser- 
vices. Decorations. 

Sept 8 Nativity of Virgin, * * Rificolone," and 

decoration of street altars. 
Carnival preceding Lent 



X 



FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC. 169 

Flace. Date. Description. 

Genazzano April 26 Pilgrimages. 

(Sabine Hills) 

Gtenoa June 24 St, John BafHst, Relics carried in 

procession m CathedraL 
Ctonzano (near Corpus Christi . Floral Festival — ^very picturesque. 
Albano) 

Ghent 2nd Sunday in Festival. Kermesse. 

July. 

Gratz Aug. 12 Pilgrimage to Mariazell. 

Graviha(S. Italy) April 20 Great Fair. 

HaL (Bel^um)... Whit-Monday... Pilgrimages. 

lieipsiO Jan. I Fair commences. 

Sept 29 Fair. 

2nd Simday after Great Fair begins. Lasts three weeks. 
Easter. 

Jiiege Feb. 10 Musical Festival commemorating birth 

of Gr6try. 

Locarno Sept. 8 Nativity of Virgin. Fair. 

ItOreto Dec. 10 Great Festival at the ** Holy House." 

IiOUyain Feb. 9 St. Apollonia, Festival 

May 26 Pilgrimages. 

2nd Simday in Festival 
July. 

XaUOeme Sunday after Festival at TelFs ChapeL Crowds in 

Ascension. boats. 

Thursday before Quaint and curious procession. 
Ash-Wed. 

XillgO (near Ra- Sept 1-19 Fan-. 

venna) 

MaJines July Festival of the Guilds every five years. 

Next in 1879. 
1st Sun. in July St, RombatUd. Festival 

Hanfredonia May 8 Pilgrimage to Church of St Michael 

(near Fo^;ia) 

Mantua Aug. 15 Assumption of Virgin, Pilgrimage to 

Sta. Maria delle Grazie. 
Marseilles June 16 Festival of Sacred Heart, commemo- 
rating the staying of the plague« 
172a 

Aug. 15 Assumption of the Virgin, Procession 

of the silver statue. 

Messina Junes Festival of the Madonna della Lettera. 

Aug. 15 Assumption of Virgin, Festival of "La 

Vara.'* 

Meiringen ist Sunday in Wrestling matches at the Stadtalp, and 

August on Aug. 10 at the Tannalp. 

•H/Tilft Ti May 3 Invention of the Cross, Procession 

through me city. 

Nov. 4 San Carlo Borromeo, Grand Fete. 

Carnival Preceding Lent 



1 70 APPENDIX. 

Place. Date. Description. 

Moncalieri Oct. 29. Nov. Cattle Fair, 

(near Turin) 14. 

Munioh Monday before The "Metzersprung" — a curious per- 

Ash- Wed. formance. 

Good Friday. Percolesi's Stabat Mater at Jesuits' 

Church. 
Corpus Christi . Procession of Guilds. Open-air ser- 
vices. 

Naples 1st Sun. in May Liquefaction of Blood of St Januariiis. 

Sept. 19 to 26 . „ „ Great FestivaL 

Dec. 16 ,, Feast of his ** Patrocinio" 

1st Sun. in June Festival of the Constitu^on. FirewoiiES 

at Villa Nazionale. 

Aug. 15 Assumption of Virgin. Festival at 

Capodimonte. 

M a Pilgrimage 

to Massa Lubrense, near Sorrento. 
Ascension Day . Fetes at Scarfati and Caniitello. 
Corpus Christi . Festival at Sta. Chiara. Parade of 

troops. 

Jan. 17 Festedi St Antonio Abate. Blessing 

of domestic animals. 

Sept 8 Nativity of Virgin, Festival of the 

Vergine de Piede^tta, A variety 
of curious entertamments, including 
the Tarantella dance. 

Dec. 24 " Presepe" (f . e. , manger) in all churches 

and houses. 
Whit-Sunday... Festival at Avellino. 
Whit-Monday... ,, Shrine of Madonna dell* Area 

Easter Simday . Pilgrimage to Antignano. 

Nepomuk May 16 Pilgrimage to birthplace of St John 

Nepomuk (between Prague and Nu- 
remberg). 
Nivello(Belgittm) Whit-Monday... Procession. 

Ober-Ammer- Ist Simday in And each succeeding Simday till end of 
gau June September. Passion Play. Every 10 

years. Next representation, 1880. 

CsteilcL Corpus Christi . Blessing the sea. 

Padua..' Jan. 17 St, Anthony, Festival 

Palermo July n- 15 Festival of Sta. Rosalia. Cathedral 

illuminated on last day of festival 

Sept 4 Pilgrima|;e to Monte Pell^[rino. 

Paris Jan. I Circumcision. General holiday. Dis- 
play of 6trennes. 

Nov. 2 All Souls', Crowds visit P^re la Chaise. 

Pesth Aug. 20 Festival of St Stephen of Hungary. 

Pisa Junei6 Festival of "La Luminara.'* Once in 

three years. 



FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC. 171 

Place. Date. Description. 

P r ague May 1 6-24 Sf, John Nepomuk, Grand Festival. 

Pilgrimages. Mass on great bridge. 

Sept 28 Festival of SL Wenceslaus. 

BapallO (near July 2-4 Festival of Madonna dell' Orto. II- 

Genoa) lamination of the coast. 

Bigi July 22 Pilgrimage to church on Rigi. Wrest- 
ling Matches. 

Aug. 5 Pilgrimage to Chapel Maria Zum 

Schnee, Klosterli. 

Sept 6 „ „ ,, 

Aug. 10 Wrestling Matches at Kaltbad. 

Homo [Note. — Many of the festivals have been altered, aban- 
doned, or become irregular, since Rome has become 
the capital of Italy. Those marked with an asterisk 
are still observed with great pomp.] 
Jan, I Circumcision, * * Papal Chapel" (i.e.f ser- 
vice at which the Pope is present) at 
the Sistine. Curious ceremony at 
Sta. Maria in Campitelli — drawing 
for patron saints. 

„ 5 Fair of the Befano. St. Eustachio. 

„ 6 Epiphany, Ara Coeli Church; pro- 
cession. Benediction with the Sante 
Bambino from topof steps.^ Services in 
various churches throughout octave. 

„ 17 St, Anthonys Day, Blessing the beasts. 

„ 18 Chair of St Peter. Procession with 

Pope, in St. Peter's. 

,,20 St, Sebastian, Festival at Sant' Andrea 

della Valle. 

„ 2 1 ^St, Agnes, Blessing the lambs, at Sta. 

Agnese fuori Mura. 

,,25 * Conversion of St, Paul, Exhibition of 

his chains at San Paolo. 
Feb. I ; *St, Ignatius, The interesting subter- 
ranean Church of San Clemente 
illuminated. 

„ 2 Purification, Procession with candles 

in St Peter's. 

March 9 Sta, Francesca Romana, Fete at the 

Tor de' SpecchL 

„ 12 St, Gregory, Festival at S. Gregorio. 

„ 19 .S"^. Joseph, Festival of S. Giuseppe. 

„ 25 * Annunciation, Papal Chapel. Pro- 
cession of white mule. Sta. Maria 
sopra Minerva. 

April 23 St, George, Exhibition of relics. S. 

Giorgio in Velabro. 

,, 25 * St, Mark, Procession from St Mark's 

to St. Paul's. 



17a APPENDIX. 

Place. Date. Description. 

Borne April 50 St,Cathaine. Festival at the Mmemi 

Bi^y 3 ^Iwventum of the Cross, Exfaihttian of 

relics at Sante Crooe. 

„ 26 *St. FUippoNerL Papal Chapd, Ouesi 

Xuova. (The rooms occi^ifed hj tk 
saint are open on this day.) 

June 24 *St, John BapHst, Yvgal Chapd attk 

lateran. Fine mnskal service;, ani 
on previous evening. 

„ 28 Eve, of St, Peter, P^nl Ou^ Sl 

Peter's. Dome ilhiminated, 

„ 29 *St, Peter, The Pope perfonns Hig^ 

Mass in St. Peter's. At LateoD 
exhibition of relics. Fl i e woiis oi 
Monte PinciOy etc. 
Throughout the octave the Biamatiiie 
Prisons are illuminated. 

June 31 SL Ignatius Loyola, Festival at tk 

GesiL 

Aug. I *St, Peter^s Chains, Festival at & 

Pietro in VinculL 

,» 4 St, Dominic, F6te at the Minerva. 

,y 5 Sta, Maria ad Nives, Cazdinal'sChipd 

(fl^:, service at which the Caidinl 
is present) at Sta. Biaria. BCaggioR; 
During the function white flowen axe 
showered fixnn the roof of the Bor- 
g^ese ChapeL 

,, 15 ^Assumption of the Virgin, Sta. Mam 

Mag^ore. Hig^ Bli^ inpiesenoe of 
the Pope. BenedicticmfixnibakoBf. 

Sept 8 ^Nativity of Virgin, Papal Chapd at 

Sta. Maria dd Popolo. 
istl Sunday in Rosary Sunday, Processioa from Ae 
October. Minerva. Fdtes, etc., throii^ioatAe 

month on Sundays and Thursdj^ at 
Monte Testaccio. 

Nov. I *All Saints, Feast at S. Lorema 

Curious scenes in the cemeteries 
throughout the octave. 

„ 4 * San Carlo Borromeo, PapalChapdat 

San Carlo in Corso. 

. „ 22 ^Sta, Cecilia, Festival at Sta. Cedlia. 

Illumination of Catacomb of St 
Calixtusy where St Cecilia was 
buried. 

n 23 *St, Clemente, Festival and illumina- 

tionsy Subterranean Churdi of S. 
Clemente. 
Dec 3 St. Francis Xavier. Fete at the Gesi 



« 



Place. 
me .... 



FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC | -^ 

Date. Description. 

Dec 4 Military Mass at Sta. Maria Transpon- 

tina. Fete of artillerymen. -^^^ .^ 

„ 8 Immaculate Conceptioiu Papal Chapel 

in the Sistine. 

„ 24 Christmas Eve, Procession of Holy 

crib in Sta. Maria Mag|;iore. Night 
services at Sistine, Vatican, etc 

„ 25 Christmas Day, Pope performs High 

Mass at St Peter's. Festival of the 
** Presepc " at the Ara CoelL Ser- 
mons by boys for ten subsequent 
days. 

„ 26 St, Stephen, Fete, San Stefano Ro- 

tonda " Te Deum " at the Gesu. 
Pope and Cardinals present 

„ 27 St, John the Evangelist, St John 

Lateran. 

„ 31 St, Sylvester, At his church, and **Te 

Deum " at the GesiL 

Holy Week ... Noble ladies wash the feet of pilgrims 

each evening at the Trinita dei Pelle- 
grim. 

Wednesday, The " Tenebrae"— an in- 
teresting service, at which the lights 
are gradually extinguished while the 
story of the Passion is rehearsed. 

" Miserere*' sung in the Sistine ChapeL 
Pope present 

Thursday, Sistine Chapel, High Mass. 
Procession of the Pope to the Pauline 
Chapel, which is illuminated. St 
Peter's — the Pope blesses the people 
from the balcony : washes the feet 
of thirteen priests ; serves thirteen 
priests at taole. "Tenebrae" and 
' ' Miserere " in Sistine. Illumination 
of various chapels. 

Good Friday. ** Tenebrae" and " Mise- 
rere." Adoration of relics in St. 
Peter's by the Pope. 

Saturday. Jews baptized in baptistery 
of Constantine. In the evening, ser- 
vice at St Peter's. 

Easter Sunday. Pope borne to St Peter's, where he 

celebrates Mass. Blowing of the 
silver trumpets. Benediction from 
balcony. Illumination of dome. 



174 



APPENDIX. 



Place. Date. Description. 

BomO Easter Monday. Fetes, fireworks, etc 

Carnival Begins Saturday- week before Ash Wed- 
nesday, and continues till Shrove 
Tuesday. Masquerades and hoIS^ 
racing daily. On the last evemo^ 
lighting and blowing out tapers. 

Ash Wednesday Ashes are sprinkled on the heads of Ae 

Cardinals in St. Peter's. Hig^ Mass. 

3rd Sunday in Exhibition of relics at San Lorenza 
Lent. 

4th Monday in Feast of the Santa Quattro Inccnonati 
Lent. at their Basilica. 

Palm Sunday ... The Pope carried round St. Peter's. 

Consecration of Palms. 

Rogation Days . Processions. 

Ascension Day . Papal Chapel at Lateran. Benediction 

by the Pope from the balcony. 

[The Great National Festas, celebrated with music, 
illuminations, etc., etc., are — 

1st Sunday in Celebration of the Constitution. 
June. 

Sept 20 Anniversary of the Liberation of Rome. 

Processions, etc. 
Oct. 2 Anniversary of the Plebiscite. 

Etc., etc., etc. 

[Every visitor should consult the Calendar, and also local authorities, as 
there is scarcely a day when there is not some ecclesiastical celebra- 
tion of interest going forward somewhere in Rome.] 

Saohseln July 26 Wrestling Matches. (Sachseln is near 

Sanden, on the Brunig, Switzerland.) 

Schopf heim Jime 29 Wrestling Matches. 

(Switzerland) * 

Sept. 29 „ „ 

1st Sunday in 

Oct. „ „ 

Seealp (n ear July 6 Or Sunday following that date. Wiiest- 

Appenzel) ling Matches. 
Sempach (near ,, 8 Commemoration of victory on battle- 
Lucerne) field. 

Siena Aprils© St, Catherine, Festival. 

July 2 & Aug. 16 Horse Races (II Palio). 

Sinigaglia October Great Fair. 

(S. Italy) 

Sorrento Aug. 15 Fete at S. Maria a Castello. Illumina- 

IvoTv of Positaxvo. 

Spezia Aisumi^twn oj Virgin. ^ ^>:\n^ 'a^.vJast 



FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC. j 7^ 

Place. Date. Description. 

St. Moiitz Sept 21 Illuminations. 

(Switzerland) 

„ 22 Festival and High Mass at Abbey of 

St Moritz. 
Stadtalp (near ist Sunday in Wrestling Match. 
Meiringen) Aug. 

Stuttgart Sept 28 Volksfest at Cannstadt 

Tamialp (near Aug. 10 Wrestling Match. 

Meiringen) 

Tivoli May8 S, MicheU, Festival. 

Trent (Trento) June 26 Festival of S. Vigilius. 

Trieste Corpus Christi Processions. Festivals. 

Turin Sept 8 NatiuUy of Virgin, Festival on the 

Superea. 
TJetliborg (Zii- Ascension Day Childreirs Fete, 
rich) 

Varallo (Lake of Aug. 15 Assumption of Virgin, Pilgrimage to 

Orta) the Sacro Monte. 

Venice April 25 St Marias, Grand Festival 

[Festivals on all the Saints' Days, and 
a variety of Fetes of local interest] 

Vienna May i Popular Fete in the Augarten. 

June 28 Pilgrims leave for Mariazell (reached 

from Briick on the Semmering Rail- 
way). 

July 6 Pilgrims return from Mariazell 

Sept 4 Sta, Rosalia, Pilgrimage to Rosalien 

Chapel 

„ 8 Public Holiday at Mariabrunn, a short 

distance from Vienna. 
Good Friday ... Holy Sepulchre in all the Churches. 
Easter Eve Great Procession of the Court in Im- 
perial Palace. 
Easter Mondajr. Pilgrimage to Antignano. 
Corpus Christi . Processions, Festivals, etc. 

Vire (Normandy) Aug. 10 Fete des Drapiers. 

Vlaardingen June 14 Prayers for success of the herring fishery. 



(Holland) 



,, 15 General Holiday. Fleet of herring 

boats set sail 



Wengeni Alp ist Sunday in Wrestling Match. 

Aug. 
Ypres (Belgium) ist Sunday in Festival 

Aug. 



176 



APPENDIX, 



TOURIST OFFICES OF THOS. COOK AND SON. 

Ludgate Circus, Fleet Street(Chief Office). 

West-end Agency, 445, West Strand 

London . . I (opposite Charing Cross Station and 

Hotel) } and 
V Front of Midland Station, St. Pancras. 

14, Cases Street (opposite New Central 
Station). 

43, Piccadilly. 

16, Stephenson Place. 

I, Royal Exchange. 

In front of Midland Station. 

9, Princes Street. 

165, Buchanan Street. 

45, Dame Street. 

15, Place du Havre. 

4O4 Domhof. 

22, Galerie du Roi. 

90, Rue du Rhone. 

IB, Piazza di Spagna. 

Cook's Tourist Pavilion, Shepheard's 
Hotel. 

Hardegg's " Jerusalem Hotel." 



Liverpool 

Manchester 
Birmingham 
Leeds 
Bradford. 
Edinburgh 
Glasgow . 
Dublin . 
Paris 
Cologne . 
Brussels . 
Geneva . 
Rome 
Cairo 



Jaffa, Palestine 



AMERICAN OFFICES OF COOK, SON, AND 

JENKINS. 



New York 
Boston . 
Washington . 

New Orleans . 
New Haven . 



261, Broadway. 

104, Washington Street. 

701, Fifteenth Street (opposite Trea 
sury Department). 

3^, Carondelet Street. 

74, ChwTcli Slteet. 



IMPORTANT NOTICE. 



Thomas Cook and Son's tickets are available for 
one (yr more passengers to travel by any train any day, and 
do not compel the holders to travel in parties. 



^o. 



^rcgrammt of pontes. 



TIME AND COST OF A TOUR. 

IN order to help the Tourist to arrange a route, to show how 
time may be economized, and, above all, to give him some 
notion as to the approximate cost of a tour to the Black Forest, 
a few examples are appended. It must be borne in mind, how- 
ever, that the costs of travelling are liable to constant change, and 
therefore the Tourist will do well to consult the last number of 
" Cook's Excursionist" (published monthly, price 2d,) ; or, if 
he cannot from that source obtain the exact information re- 
quired, if the precise itinerary of the tour contemplated be for- 
warded to Messrs. CooK & Son, Chief Office, Ludgate Circus, 
E.C., with stamped directed envelope for a reply, a special 
quotation will be sent by first post. 

In CALCULATING EXPENSES, nothing will be said here about 
hotel accommodation, or about the' luxuries of travel. Of 
course, it depends entirely on the taste of the individual, and 
his habits, as to whether expenses in this respect be great or 
small. What is denoted in the following list is the actual travel- 
lin^ expense, A tour may be a very expensive matter as regards 
time and money, if the traveller thinks well to make it so ; but 
this is by no means a necessity. A fortnight, three weeks, or 
a month, will suffice, as regards time ; and the travelling 
expenses will be within the means of all ordinary Tourists. 
Full particulars as to hotel accommodation will be found on 
p. jSs. 



SPECIMENS OF TOURS. lyg 

The following are some of the most useful Tours, but the 
arrangements now completed by Messrs. Thos. Cook and Son 
are such as to allow of endless combinations : — 



Tour Commencing and Terminating at Basle. 

Route No. i. — Basle, Waldshut, Schaffhausen, Singen, 
Villingen, Triberg, Romberg, OfTenburg, Appenweier, Kehl, 
Strassburg, Colmar, Miilhausen, Basle, or vice versa, ist class, 
£2 I2S. ; 2nd class, £1 i8s. 



The Rhine, Black Forest, and Luxemburg. 

Route No. 2. — London, Harwich, Antwerp, Cologne, Rhine 
steamer to Oberlahnstein, railway to Wiesbaden, Frankfort, 
Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, Baden-Baden, OfTenburg, Homberg, 
Triberg, Villingen, Singen, Schaffhausen, Waldshut, Basle, 
Miilhausen, Strassburg, Metz, Luxemburg, Arlon, Namur, 
Brussels, Antwerp, Harwich, London, or vice versa, AvaiMle 
for Two Months, ist class, £\o 19s. 6d. ; 2nd class, ;£ 7 i is. Qd. 

Route No. 3. — Same tour beyond Brussels, but going and 
returning via Ostend. Available for One Month, ist class, 
;^I2 3s. 6d.; 2nd class, £% 12s. 9d. 

Route No. 4. — Same tour beyond Brussels, but going and 
returning via Calais. Available for One Month, ist class, 
;^I2 8s. 6d. ; 2nd class, ;£8 19s. 3d. 

Route No. 5. — Same tour beyond Antwerp, but going and 
returning by General Steam Navigation Compan/s steamers. 
Available for One Month, ist class, ;^io 12s. 6d. ; 2nd class, 
£l I2S. 3d. 



The Rhine, Black Forest, and Switzerland. 

Route No. 6. — London, Harwich, Antwerp, Brussels, 
Cologne, Rhine steamer to Mayence, Worms, Heidelberg 
Baden-Baden, OfTenburg, Homberg, Tnb^T^,N*^\^'^<Ks\^'SvTs!^^xv 



1 80 APPENDIX. 

Schaffhausen, Zurich, Zug, Lucerne, Alpnacht, Brienz, Inter* 
laken, Thun, Berne, Fribourg, Lausanne, Geneva, Paris, Rouen, 
Dieppe, London, or vice versa, ist class, £i\ 19s. 6d.; 2nd 
class, £Z 1 8s. 9cL 

Route No. 7. — Same route between Brussels and Paris, 
but going and returning via Calais : ist class, ;^I4 los. 6d. ; 
2nd class, ;^ii os. Qd. 

Route No. 8. — Going via General Steam Navigation 
Company's route to Antwerp; same route as No. 6 beyond. 
1st class, £\\ 1 8s. Qd. ; 2nd class, £^ os. Qd. 



Paris, the Black Forest, Switzerland, and the 

Jura. 

Route No. 9. — London, Newhaven, Dieppe, Paris, Nancy, 
Strassburg, Kehl, Offenburg, Homberg, Triberg, Villingen. 
Singen, Constance, Rorschach, St. Gall, Winterthur, Zurich, 
Zug, Lucerne, Bernese Oberland, Berne, Bienne, Chaux-de- 
Fonds, NeuchStel, Pontarlier, Dijon, Paris, Rouen, Dieppe, 
London, or vice versa. Available for Two Months, ist class, 
£\\ IDS. ; 2nd class, ;£ 8 2s. 

Route No. 10. — Same route beyond Paris, but going and 
returning via Dover and Calais : ist class, £i\ ss. ; 2nd class, 
£\o 15s. 



Luxemburg, Black Forest, Switzerland, and Paris. 

Route No. ii. — London, Harwich, Antwerp, Brussels, 
Luxemburg, Metz, Strassburg, Kehl, Offenburg, Homberg, 
Triberg, Villingen, Singen, Schaffhausen, Winterthur, Zurich, 
Zug, Lucerne, Alpnacht, Brienz, Interlaken, Thun, Berne, 
Fribourg, Lausanne, Geneva, Culoz, Macon, Dijon, Paris, Rouen, 
Dieppe, Newhaven, London, or vice versa, ist class, ;^i i 13s. ; 
2nd class, ;^8 12s. 



SPECIMENS OF TOURS. j 8 1 

Route No. 12. — Going to Brussels via Calais ; returning 
from Paris via Calais and Dover; same route as No. 1 1 between 
Brussels and Paris, ist class, ;^I3 19s. 6d. ; 2nd class, 
;£io 13s. 6d. 



The Rhine, Bavaria, Black Forest, and Paris. 

Route No. 13. — London, Harwich, Antwerp, Brussels, 
Cologne, steamer to Mayence, Darmstadt, Aschaffenburg, 
Wurzburg, Ingoldstadt, Munich, Lindau, steamer to Romans- 
horn, Constance, Singen, Villingen, Triberg, Romberg, Offen- 
burg, Kehl, Strassburg, Nancy, Bar-le-Duc, Paris, Rouen, 
Dieppe, Newhaven, London, or vice versa, ist class, ;£ 12 3s.; 
2nd class, £^ 19s. 3d. 

Route No. 14. — Going to Brussels, and returning from 
Paris via Calais and Dover; same route as No. 13 between 
Brussels and Paris. ist class, £i\ 12s. 6d. ; 2nd class, 
;£io 19s. I id. 



DILIGENCE ROUTES IN THE BLACK FOREST. 

Having completed arrangements with the ROYAL German 
Post, Messrs. Thos. Cook and Son are now in a position to 
issue their own tickets for the diligences through the Black Forest. 
The routes are too numerous to be shown in a progranmie form, 
but include Albbriick, Neustadt, Triberg, Bonndorf, Altenweg, 
Schluchsee, Birkendorf, Blumberg, Schaffhausen, Thiengen, 
Donaueschingen, Freiburg, Stuhlingen, Schonau, Todtnau, 
Hausach, Schramberg, Rippoldsau, Schopfheim, Waldkirch, 
Furtwangen, Unterkimach. 

The coupons can be combined in any way to suit the require- 
ments of travellers ; but the following will give some idea of the 
manner in which they can be used. 

A. — Basle to Albbriick, railway; Albbriick to Neustadt and 
Freiburg, diligence ; Freiburg to Basle, railway. 



l82 APPENDIX. 

I 

B. — Basle to Schopfheim, railway; Schopfheim to Schonau, 
Todtnau, and Freiburg, diligence; Freiburg to Basle, 
railway. 

C. — Basle to Schopfheim, railway; Schopfheim to Schonau, 
Todtnau, and Freiburg, diligence; Freiburg to Offen- 
burg, Romberg, and Triberg, railway; Triberg to 
Neustadt and Albbriick, diligence; Albbruck to Basle, 
railway. 

D. — Basle to Albbriick, railway; Albbriick to Neustadt and 
Freiburg, diligence; Freiburg to OfTenburg, Rom- 
berg, and Triberg, railway; Triberg to Neustadt and 
Donaueschingen, diligence; Donaueschingen to Singen 
and Schaffhausen, railway. 

E. — Freiburg to Neustadt and Triberg, diligence ; Triberg to 
Donaueschingen, railway ; Donaueschingen to Neustadt 
and Albbruck, diligence ; Albbriick to Basle, railway. 

The tickets allow breaks of journey to all places of interest, 
and may be combined with Cook's tickets for Switzerland, the 
Rhine, or Luxemburg, in aiiy way passengers desire. Inquirers 
should fix upon a definite route, and forward particulars to 
Messrs. Cook and Son. In reply they will be informed the 
cost of tour proposed — first or second class. 




HOTEL ACCOMMODATION COUPONS, 

ORIGINATED AND ISSUED BY 

THOMAS COOK AND SON. 



The Hotel Coupon business, which was commenced as a friendly 
arrangement of mutual interest to ourselves, to Hotel Proprietors, and 
Tourists, has far exceeded our most sanguine anticipations ; and as its 
benefits become better known, they will be more highly appreciated by all 
who are interested in the success of the scheme. 

The European Hotel Coupons are issued at the uniform rate of 8s. per 

, day, and are arranged as follows : — 1st Coupon (yellow). — Breakfast^ 

specifying of what it shall consist. 2nd Coupon (red). — Dinner at Table 

d*B6tej with or without Wine, according to the custom of the Hotels. 3rd 

Coupon (blue). — Bed-room including lights and attendance. 

These are the ordinary features of Continental Hotel life, all else being 
regarded as extras, and as such they are left to be paid for by Supplemental 
Coupons or cash. 

The coupons are accepted at full value at one principal Hotel in 
each of the chief cities, towns, and places of Tourist resort,- in Switzerland, 
Italy, on the banks of the Rhine, and at a great many places in France, Ger- 
many, Holland, Belgium, Austria, etc. ; also for meals on board the Great 
Eastern Channel Steamers and the Rhine Steamers. 

SUPPLEMENTAL AND EXCEPTIONAL ARRANGEMENTS. 

In London Tourists may be accommodated en route to or from the Con- 
tinent at (ibok's British Museum Boarding House, 59, Great Russell Street, 
Bloomsbury, at 6s. per day, for Bed, Breakfast, and Tea with meats. 
{Hotel Coupons accepted at their full value in payment.) 

Hotel Coupons are also accepted at the London and Paris Hotel and 
Refreshment Rooms, Newhaven Wharf, Coupons are accepted for 
meals on board the Great Eastern Channel Steamers, and on the 
Rhine Steamers. 

Special Coupons are issued for Vienna, available at the Hotel 
d' Union, and Hotel Metropole at 13s. per day. 

For Paris, Hotel Coupons at special rates are issued for the Grand 
Hotel and for the Hotel Bedford. 

In Paris, the other Hotels in Messrs. Cook and Son's connection are 
not equal in appearance and style to those of the Continent generally ; but 
the proprietors having long evinced a kindly interest in promoting the 
comfort and convenience of Excursionists and Tourists, the Coupons are 



i8t 



APPENDIX. 



allowed to be accepted at the London and New York Hotel, Place du 
Havre ; Hotel St Petersbourg, 35, Rue Caumartin ; at the Hotel Beretta 
(late Londres), 8, Rue St. Hyacinthe, Rue St. Honorc. For these Hotels 
accommodation cards are also issued at the rate of 8s. per day, including 
meat for Breakfast. Special Coupons are issued on the Grand Hotel, 
at 1 6s. per day, and on the Hotel Bedford at 12s. per day. 

At Rouen, Mrs. Daniells, widow of the late Interpreter at the Station, 
who keeps a small Hotel, the Victoria, near the Station, wishes to accept 
Coupons from parties breaking their journey there. 

Additional Charges are made on the Coupons as follows : 

At Baden-Baden, at the time of the Races, 2 francs per day. 

At Rome, from the ist of December to the end of April, from i franc 
to 3 francs per day, according to the class of rooms, are now agreed to as 
extra charges ; but new arrangements may have to be made in consequence 
of Rome being now the capital of Italy. Whatever change is made, 
notice will be given thereof. 

For Rome, an additional series of Hotel Coupons can be had, pro- 
viding for three meals per day, and other accommodation, at the noid 
d'Allemagne, at an extra charge of 2s. per day. 

At the RiGi KuLM Hotels, i franc extra is required on the Bedroom 
Coupon. All these extras can be paid by Supplemental Coupons or Cash. 
Travellers wishing to spend the night at this Hotel must give at least one 
day's notice by letter or telegram to the Manager, stating that they hold 
"Cook's Coupons," and wish rooms reserved. 

GiESSBACH. — The Dinner Coupons can only be accepted at this Hotel 
when the passengers remain for the night. 

Conditions and terms of Repayment for unused Coupons are printed 
in the Coupon Books. 

Any Complaints which parties have to make as to the use of the 
Coupons, or the conduct of Hotel Proprietors or Servants, to be addressed, 
in writing, to Messrs. Thomas Cook & Son, Ludgate Circus, Fleet 
Street, London. 

Coupons can be obtained at the offices of Messrs. Thomas Cook & 
Son, Ludgate Circus, and 445, West Strand, London ; Cases Street (oppo- 
site New Central Station), Liverpool ; 43, Piccadilly, Manchester ; 16, 
Stephenson Place, New Street, Birmingham ; i, Royal Exchange, Leeds ; 
Front of Midland Station, Bradford ; 15, Place du Havre, Paris ; 22, 
Galerie du Roi, Brussels ; 40, D'omhof, Cologne ; 90, Rue du Rh6ne, 
Geneva; IB, Piazza di Spagna, Rome; and Sso at the Hotels Swan, 
Lucerne ; Trois Rois, Bale ; Trombetta, Turin ; Victoria, Venice. 

Repayments for unused Hotel Coupons, less 10 per cent., can 
only be made at the Chief Office, Ludgate Circus, Fleet Street, London, 
and no agents are authorised to repay for any not used. 

Hotels in the East. — A special Series of Coupons is provided for 
the East Levant, and we append List of Hotels. 

For Scotland and Ireland also a special series is provided, as per 
Programme. 



[EUROPEAN AND EASTERN HOTELS 

WHERE cook's COUPONS FOR HOTEL ACCOMMODATION WILL 

BE ACCEPTED. 

Hotels in France and French Savoy- 

^ix les Bains . Hotel de la Paix. 
Amiens . . Hotel de TUnivers. 
Amphion {Lake of Geneva) Grand Hotel des Bains. 



Annecy 

Bagneres de Bigorre 

Bourdeaux . 


Hotel d'Angleterre. 

? Hotel de France. 

Hotel de France. 


Boulogne 


Grand Hotel Christol. 


Calais 


Hotel Dessin. 


Cannes 


Hotel Beau Site. 


Chamhery . 
Chamouny . 
Dieppe 


Hotel de la Poste. 
C Hotel de TAngleterre. 
( Hotel Royal. 

Hotel Queen Victoria. 


Dijon 
Fontainehleau 


Hotel Jura. 
Hotel de Londres. 


Gorges du Fier 


Chalet Hotel. 


Grenoble 


Hotel Monnet. 


Hyeres 


Hotel des lies d'Or. 


Lyons 
Alacon 


Hotel de TEurope. 
Hotel de TEurope. 


Marseilles . 


Hotel du Louvre et de la Paix. 


Men tone 


Hotel Grande Bretaghe. 


Modane 


( Grand Hotel International. 
( Station Buffet. 


Nice . 


Grand Hotel. 


Fon tar Iter . 


Hotel de la Poste. 


Faris * 
Fail . 


^ Grand Hotel (Special Coupons). 
I Bedford Hotel (Special Coupons). 
-< t Londres et New York, Place du Havre. 
/ St. Petersbourg, ^^, Rue Caumartin. 
^ Hotel Beretta, 8, Rue St. Hyacinthe. 
Grand Hotel Grassion. 



* See special note on cover of Hotel Coupons. 

t At the Hotels marked thus t Cook's Tickets may be had. 



i86 



APPENDIX. 



Rouen 


Smith's Albion Hotel. 


Semnoz Alps 


ChMet Hotel de Semnoz. 


Toulon 


Grand Hotel. 


Vkhy 


Grand Hotel des Bains. . 


Switzerland and the Alpine Districts. 


Aarau 


Hotel de la Cigogne. 


Aigle 


Hotel Victoria. 


Airolo 


Hotel de la Poste. 


Alpnacht 


Hotel Pilatus. 


Andermait . 


Hotel Trois Rois. 


Baden (Stvitxerland) 


Hinterhof. 


Basle . 


Hotel Trois Rois. 


Berne . 


Hotel Belle Vue. 


Bellinzona . 


Hotel del'Ange. 
Hotel de la ViUe. 


Bex . 


Hotel des Bains. 


Biasca 


Hotel de Biasca. 


Brienz 


Hotel de la Croix Blanche. 


Briffue 


Hotel de la Poste. 


Chaux de Fonds . 


Hotel de la Fleur de Lis. 


Coire . 


Hotel Steinbock. 


Einsiedeln . 


Hotel du Paon. 


Engelherg . 


Hotel Sonnenberg. 


Falls of the Rhine {Neuhausen) Scbweizerhof. 


Fluelen 


Hotel Croix Blanche et Poste. 


Fribourg 


Hotel Zaeheringen. 


Geneva 


( Grand Hotel de Rassie et Anglo- Ameri- 
t Hotel du Lac. Qcain 


Giesshach 


Hotel Giessbach. 


Grindelwald 


Hotel de TAigle Noir. 


Hospenthal . 


Meyerhof. 


Interlaken . 


\ Hotel Victoria. 
( Hotel Ritchard. 


La Tour 


Hotel dn Rivage. 


Lausanne . 


Hotel Gibbon. 
. Hotel TAngleterre, Ouchy. 


Lauterbrunhen 


Hotel du Capricorne. 


Leukerbad . 


Hotels des Alps and Belle Vue. 


Lode 


Hotel Jura. 


Loeche-leS' Bains . 


Hotel des Alpes. 



EUROPEAN AND EASTERN HOTELS. 



Lungern 

Martigni/ . 
Meiringen . 
Mendrisio . 
Monte Generoso 
Moatreux . 
Marges 
Neuch&tel . 
Ragats 
Higi'Kulm . 
I&gi Slqffel 
Rorschach . 
Rovio 
Samaden 
Somen 

St. Gall . 
St. Nicholas 

Splugen 
Thoune {Thun) 
Thusis 
Trieni 
yeveif 

Femmas . 
Vtsp . 
Zermalt 



\ Hotel Oberwald. 

Hotel du Pare and Station Buffet. 

Hotel Clerc. 

Hotel du Sauvage. 

Hotel McDdtisio. 

Hotel dc Monteroso. 

Langbein's Hotel B«au-S^jour au I 

Hotel des Alpes. 

Grand Hotel du I^c. 

Hotel Qiiellenhor. 
f Hotel du Rigi-Kulm. 
j Hotel Schreiber. 

Hotel Rigi-StafEel. 

Hotel Seehof. 

Hotel Rovio. 

Hotel Bemina. 
C Brunig Hotel. 
I Hotel de I'Oberwald. 

Hotel de St. Gall. 

Grand Hotel. 

Hotel Belle Vue. 

Hotel de la Poste. 
f Hotel Belle Vue. 
\ Grand Hotel de Thouoe. 

Hotel Via Mala. 

Hotel du Glacier de Tneot 

Grand Hotel Vevey. 

Hotel des Gorges de Trient. 

Hotel de la Hoste. 

Hotel du Mont Cervin. 

Hotel Belle Vue. 



Belgium, Holland, the Rhine, Germany, and 



Adelsherg 

j4ix-la-Chapelle 
Amsterdam . 



Austria. 

Grand Hotel. 

Hotel do Dragon d'Or. 

Old Bibit; Hoiel. 
( Hotel de la Paix. 
( Hotel de I'Europe. 



]88 


APPENDIX. 


Augslurg . 


Hotel de Baviere. 


Baden-Baden 


Hotel de Hollande. 




(- Markgraffts Hotel de I'Europe. 


Berlin 


\ Hotel Bartickow. 




(. Topfer's Hotel. 


Binsen 


Hotel Victoria. 


Bonn 


Grand Hotel Royal. 


Boppard . 


Hotel du Rhin. 


Botxen 


Hotel Kaiserkrone (Imperial Crown) 


Breda 


Hotel Swan. 


Bremen 


Hotel de I'Europe. 


Brixen 


Elephant Hotel. 


Bruges 


Hotel de Flandre. 


Brussels . 


( Hotel de la Poste. 

( Hotel du Grand Miroir. 


Carlsruhe . 


Hotel zum Erbprmz. 


Cohlence . 


Hotel du Geant. 


Cologne 


Hotels Belle Vue and Hollande. 


Constance . 


Hotel Hecht. 


Darmstadt. . 


Hotel Traube. 


Dresden 


Grand Union Hotel. 


Ems . 


Hotel Darmstadt. 


Field of tVaterloo 


Museum Hotel, 


Franifort . 


Grand Hotel du Nord. 


Freilurg (Baden} 


Hotel Trescher zuin Pfaum. 


Ghent. 


Hotel de Vienne. 


Gmunden . 


Hotel Belle Vue. 


Hamburg . 


Hotel Streit. 


Hanover . 


British Hotel. 


Heidelberg . 


Hotel de I'Europe. 


Innsbruck . 


Hotel Tyrol- 


Kiel . 


Hotel Germania. 


Mayence . 


Hotel de Hollande. 


Met:! 


( Hotel de Paris. 


\ Graud Hotel de Metz. 


Munich 


Hotel Belle Vue. 


Kamur 


Hotel Holland. 


Neuuied . 


Moravian Hotel. 


Ostend 


Hotel d'AUeiuagne. 


Passau 


Hotel Bayrischen Hof. 


RegensluTg . 


Hotel Three Helmets. 


XenMuTg . 


Hotel Bergman. 



EUROPEAN AND EASTERN HOTELS. 



189 



Rochefort . 
Rotterdam . 


Hotel Biron. 
New Bath Hotel. 


Salzburg . 
Schwalhach, 
Spa . 
Stettin 


Hotel Erzherzog Carl. 
Hotel Metropole. 
Hotel de rEurope. 
Hotel du Nord. 


Strasburg . 
Stuttgart . 
The Hague . 


Hotel Maison Rouge. 
Marquardfs Hotel. 
Hotel du Vieux Doelen. 


Trieste 


Hotel de la Ville. 


Vienna 
JVieshaden . 


C Special ^ Union Hotel. 
( Hotel Coupons ) Hotel Metropole. 
Grand Hotel du Rhin. 


Worms 


Hotel de TEurope. 




Hotels in Italy. 


Alassio 


Hotel de Londres. 


Ancona 


Hotel della Pace. 


Arona 


Hotel de I'ltalie. 


Bellaggio . 
Bologna . 
Bordzghera 
Brindlsi 


Hotel Grande Bretagne. 
Hotel Brun. 
Hotel d'Angleterre. 
Hotel Oriental. 


Cadenahhia (Li 

CoTdo) . 
Capri 


^^^ ^/| Grand Hotel Belle Vue. 
Hotel du Louvre. 


Caserta 


Hotel Victoria. 


Castellamare 


Hotel Royal. 


Cernobhio {La 

Como) . 
^o7«o (o« Lake 
Corfu (Greece) 
arnigliano 


^^ ^A Grand Hotel Villa d'Este. 

) . Hotel de la Reine d'Angleterre. 
Hotel St. George. 
Grand Hotel Villa Rachel. 


Chiavenna . 


Hotel Conradi. 


Chiasso 


Hotel Chiasso. 


Domo d'Ossola 


Hotel de la Ville. 



Florence 



Genoa 



I Hotel New York. 
) Hotel de TEurope. 

I English and American Boarding House, 
v> Palazzo d'Elci, 28, Via Maggio. 
Hotels de Va V*\V\^ ^xA T\wx^^\^».^'^^'^ 



\ 



190 

Ischia (Casamicciola) 

La Tour 

LegJvom 

Lucca 

Luino 

Mantua 

Menaggio 

Milan 

Naples 

Padua 

Pallanza 

Parma 

Perugia 

Pisa 

Pompeii 

Rome 

Salerno 

San Remo 

Sienna 

Sondrio (Valtelina) 

Sorrento 

Spezia 

Stresa 

Syracuse 

f Turin 

Varese 

f Venice 

Verona 



APPENDIX. 

Hotel Belle Vue. 

Hotel de TOurs. 

Hotel Du Nord. 

Hotel de TUnivers. 

Hotel Stmplon. 

Hotel de TEcu de France. 

Hotel Victoria. 
( Hotel Royal. 
I Station Buffet. 

Hotel des Etrangers. 

Hotel Stella d'Ore. 

Grand Hotel Pallanza. 

Hotel de Perugia. 

Hotel de Londres. 

Hotel Diomede. 

Hotel d'Allemagne. 

Hotel Victoria. 

Hotel Victoria. 

Grand Hotel. 

Hotel de la Poste. 

Hotel Tramontano. 

Hotel de la Croix de Malte. 

Hotel des lies Borromees. 

Hotel Victoria. 

Hotel Trombetta. 

Grand Hotel Varese. 

Hotel Victoria. 
C Hotel Tower of London. 
I Station Buffet. 



Hotels in Sicily. 



Catania 

Messina 

Palermo 

Syracuse 

Taormina 



Grand Hotel. 
Hotel Victoria. 
Hotel de France. 
Hotel Victoria. 
Hotel Timeo. 



At the Hotels marked f, Cook's Tickets may be had. 



EUROPEAN AND EASTERN HOTELS. 



191 



Algeria and Tunis. 



Algiers 




Batna 


Hotel de Paris. 


Biskra 


Hotel du Sahara. 


Blidah 


Hotel d'Orient. 


Bona 




Constantine 


Hotel d*Orient. 


Guelma 


Hotel Auriel. 


Oran 


Hotel de la Paix. 


Soukahras . 


Hotel Thagaste. 


Tlemcen . 


Hotel de France. 


Tunis 


Hotel de Paris. 



Sweden, Norway, and Denmark. 



Aarhuus . 

ChrisHania 

Copenhagen 

Helsinghorg 

Honefos 

Jonhoping . 

Stockholm . 



1 



Hotel Royal. 
Grand Hotel. 
Hotel d'Angleterre. 
Hotel Molberg. 
Gladvett's Hotel. 
Hotel Jonkoping. 
Grand Hotel. 
Hotel Rydberg. 



Hotels in Black Forest. 

Alhhrikk . . Hotel Albthal. 

Brennet {Station), Hotel Werrathal. 

Belchen {High Mountain Station) Rasthaus Belchen. 

Donaueschingen . Hotel Schiitzen. 

Feldherg {High Mountain Station) Hotel Feldbergerhof. 

Furtwangen . Angel Hotel. 

Gernshach . . Bath Hotel. 

Hochenschwand . Hotel Maier. 

Holsteig (^Hollenthal) Golden Star Hotel. 

Hornherg . . Hotel Baren. 

Lorrach . . Hirsch Hotel. 

Lenzkirch , . Hotel Poste. 

MUllheim . . Hotel Kittler. 

Neusladi . . Hotel Poste. 



192 



APPENDIX. 



Ottenhofen . 


Hotel Pflug. 


Oherkirch . 


Hotel Linde. 


Schluchsee . 


Hotel Star. 


Sackingen • 


Hotel Schutzen. 


Schonau 


Hotel Sonne. 


Schopjheim • 


Hotel Three Kings. 


St. Georgen {Black Forest) Hotel Hirsch. 


St, Blasien . 


Hotel St. Blasien. 


Todtnau 


Hotel Ochsen. 


Triherg (Town) . 


Lion Hotel. 


Triberg (Cascade) 


Black Forest Hotel. 


Vohrenhach . 


Hotel Kreuz. 


Villingen 


Hotel Blume (Poste). 


Waldkirch . 


Hotel Poste. 


Waldshut . 


Hotel Kuhner. 


midbad . 


J Hotel Freg. 
I Hotel Keim. 


IVehr {Werrathal) 


Hotel Krone. 


IVolfach . 


Hotel Krone. 


EASTERN HOTELS (SPECIAL COUPONS.) 


Alexandria . 


Hotel de TEurope. 


Cairo . 


Shepheard's Hotel and the New Hotel. 


Sue% . 


Suez Hotel. 


Port Said , 


Hotel de France and Hotel du Louvre. 


/v/ I 


C Mediterranean Hotel. 
( Hotel de TEurope. 


Jerusalem . 


yalTa . 


Hardegg's " Jerusalem Hotel " (Cook* 




Agency) . 


Beyrout 


, Hotel Bellevue. 


Damascus . 


Dimetri's Hotel. 


Constantinople 


Hotel de Luxemburg. 


Athens 


Hotel des Etrangers. 





INDEX. 

1 








PAGE 






PAGE 


Aach, The . 


. 99 


Altglashutten 




. 139 


Aach . • . . 


, 100, lOI 


Alt»:hweier . 




. 126 


Aach lAnz . 


. Ill 


Althomberg. 




. 91 


Aarbe^, The 
Aare, The . 




. 65 


Altwolfach . 




. 79 




. 65 


Am Nothschrei . 


' 135 


, 152 


Acher, The . 




. 127 


Am Spielweg 
Amlniirm . 




. 158 


Achem. 


• 35 


, 126 




. 77 


Achembach, The 




. 129 


Ambach, The 




. 35 


Affenthal 




. 126 


Amterhausen, Monastery 


. 99 


Aftersteg . 




. 152 


Am3rschwand 


% 


. 148 


Aha , ^ , , 




. 139 


An der Halde 




. 157 


Aitem. 




158 


Angenbach Thai , 




' ^12 


Alb, The . . 




144 


Angenbachthal • 




. 168 


Albbruok 


65 


, 144 


Angenstein . 




. 63 


Albersbach . 




154 


Anselfingen . 




. 100 


Albstrasse, The . 




^43 


Antogast 




. 133 


Albthal . 65, 142 


, 143 


> 14S 


Appenweier . 


• 35 


, 130 


Albthal (by Herrenalb) 




121 


Arenenberg . 




70 


Alexanderschanze. 




134 


Arlesheim . 




. 63 


Allensbach . 




104 


Atzenbach • 




• 159 


AUerheiligen. 




129 


Aue . 




. 116 


Alpirsbach . 




82 


Auf dem Rinken . 




. 154 


Alsbach 




82 


Augst . 




63 


Alstadthurm. 




93 








Alstensteig . 




84 


Bachenberg. 

Baden-Biaden 




86 


Alt Breisach. 




53 




. 25 


Alt Eberstein 




33 


AltEberstem . 




33 


Alt Windeck 




34 


Alte Schloss . 




32 


Altdort (Engen) . 




99 


Bath House 




29 


Altdorf (Chateau) 




37 


Brnchbrunnen . 




29 


Alte Mann, The . 




156 


Churches and Cemeteries . 


29 


Alte Schloss Hohenbad< 


en . 


32 


Conversationshaus 


• • 


26 


Altenburg, Castle. 




Is 


English Church 


• a 


30 


Altenweg 


isi 163 


Environs . 


• • 


32 


Altepost 


• 


136 


Felsen, The . 


• • 


^2 



194 


IXM 


ULsI^, 






PAGE 




PAGE 


Baden-Baden (continued) :— 


Basle (continued) :— 




Feltauelle. 
Greet Chapel . 


. 29 


Public Library. 


. 60 


. 30 


Railway Stations 


. 55 


History . 


. 26 


Rathhaus . 


. . 60 


Hbllenquelle . 


. 29 


Reading Club . 


. 62 


Hot Springs . 
Jews* Spring . 
Leopola's Platz. 


. 28 


Spahlenbrunnen 


. 60 


. 29 


Spahlenthor . 


. 61 


• 30 


Swimmmg Baths 


. . 62 


Marx Library . 


. 27 


Theatre . 


. 62 


Mercuriusberg . 


. 33 


Time at Basle . 


. 61 


Michaelsberg . 


. 30 


University 


. 60 


Neue Schloss . 


• 31 


Wooden Bridge 


• 57 


New Cemetery . 


• 31 


Zoological GaMens . 


. 62 


Pfarrkirche 


, 29 


Baths of the Blaok Forest 


Protestant Church . 


• 30 




80, 132 


Season 


. 26 


Belchen, The . 


- 157 


Theatre .... 


. 29 


Belchener Wiese, The 


. 160 


Trinkhalle 


. 27 


Bellingen . 
Benze >ene, The . 


■ ill 


Ursprung . 


. 29 


Baden Shooting License 


73 


Beringen 


. 65 


Badenweiler . 


155 


Berlii^en . 


. 70 


Alte Mann, The 


156 


Bermersbach Valley . 


. 125 


Cursaal, The . 


155 


Bemau. 


. 163 


Park 


156 


Bemeck, The 


. 8i 


Roman Baths . 


156 


Bemeck, Castle . 


. 88 


Sophienruhe, The . 
Schloss Burgeln 


156 


Bemeck, Valley . 


. 87 


156 


Besenfeld 


. 124 


Trinkhalle 


155 


Beuggen 


. 64 


Bad Petersthal . 


132 


Beuren 


loi, 106 


Baiersbronn. 


119 


Beuron. 


99> 113 


Bannholz .... 


143 


Biberach 


. 75 


Barenfels .... 


162 


Biblingen . 


. 165 


Barenstein .... 


125 


Bilistem, Castle . 


. 36 


Barenthal, Village 


153 


Bingen 


. 113 


Basel-Klein .... 


55 


Birkenfeld . 


. 123 


Basenstein .... 


128 


Birkenkopf, The . 


• 34 


Basle 


55 


Birseck 


. 63 


Arsenal .... 


66 


Bitterschliesserthal 


• 113 


Barfusser Church 


61 


Black Forest Asso 


elation 


Cathedral. 


58 




6»i39 


Central Railway Station . 


61 


Black Forest Bath 


B. 80, 152 


Environs .... 


62 


Black Forest Baili 


Bray. 71 


Elizabeth, St., Church of . 


61 


Strategic Importance 


. 7* 


Histoiy .... 
Lallenkonig, The . 


57 


Mercantile Importanc 


e . 72 


59 


Blasien, St. . 


. 140 


Martin, St., Church of 


61 


Benedictine Abbey , 


. 141 


Museum .... 


59 


Calvarienberg . 


. 142 


Philanthropic Societies 


61 


Chasse, The . 


. 142 


Post Office 


60 


Church . 

1 


. 14J 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Blasien, St. {anUmued) :— 
Cotton FactorjT. . . 141 
Fitch . . . .142 
Tuscnlum Wateifdl . . 141 
Vietrichue. . • . 142 

Blasiwald, The . . . 140 

Blauen, The . .157 

Blaaenbeig, The . . .132 
Bleiche^ The ... 37 
Bleybach . . . .151 
Blochereck .... 129 
BrdssUng .... 163 
Blmnberg . . . * 97 
Bodaisee, The . . .108 
Bbhringen .... 104 
Bone Cavern, Thaymgen . 103 
Bonndorf .165 

Brandenberger Thai . 153, 159 
Biaunlingen . . • 93» 9$ 
firege Valley . . . .98 
Bregenbach . . 97, 152, 164 
Bregenz .... 109 

Breisaoh. * * * 53 

„ Alt . . .53 
„ Neu ... 54 
Breisgauy The . . .39 
Breitnau . • . 137, 138 
Brend, The . . .151 

Brennet • 64^ 163 

Brentkoferbergj The . .111 
Brigach, The . . 84, 92 
Brigittenberg, The . . 126 
Brigittenschloss« The . 35, 126 
Briglirain, The . . -150 
Brittenstem Falls 
Brogen, The 
Brotzmgen . 
Bromb^h . 
Briiderhalde, The 
Briihl 

Brunnadem . . 142. 
Buchberg, The 
Buchent^ch. 
Bi:^;gingen . 

Biihlbach ! 

M Lake 

„ Valley 
Biihlerthal, The 



. 129 

. 80 

• 123 
. 160 

• 153 
106, 108 

143, 148 
. 103 

. 135 

. 54 

. 34 
. 120 

. 120 

. 120 

. 126 



Biihlerstein, The . 
Buhloth, The 
Biiig . 
Burgbach, The . 

y, Castle . 

„ Falls . 
Burgeln, Schloss . 



Cacilienberg, The. 

Calmbach . 

Calvarienberg, The 

Carlstein 

Catherine, St., Chapel of 

Cauldrons, Seven. 

Christophsthal 

Colmar 

Constance 

BrOhl 

Dommican Monastery 

Gottlieben 

Hussj House of. 

Kaufhaus. 

Kreuzlingen Abbey 

Miinster . 

Pier 

Promenades 

Swimming Bath 

Town HaU 

Wessenburg House 

Constance, Lake of 

Br^enz . 
Fri^richsafen 
Lindau . 
Mainau . 

Danube, Source of 

Danube Valley 
Degerfelden 
Denzlingen . 
Descheck, The 
Devil's Bed . 
Devil's Chambers. 
Devil's Grave 
Devil's Mill. 
Devil's Pulpit 
Dieslingen . 
Diessenhofen 
Dinglingen . 
DoM, The . 



^9S 

PAGE 
. 84 
. 125 
• 135 

. 80 

79,82 
. 156 

. 34 

. 123 

65, 142 

. 89 

. 38 
. 129 

. 120 

. 54 

70, 105 
106, 108 

. 105 

. 105 

. 105 

105, 107 

. 107 

. 106 

. 107 

. 107 

. 107 

. 107 

. 107 

. 108 

. 109 

. 109 

. 109 

. 108 

. 96 

99» "3 
. 161 

39, 152 
. 150 

. 122 

. 122 

. 122 

. 122 

. 116 

. 95 
. 70 

• 36 

• 121 



196 



INDEJC 



PAGE 



Dobdbach Valley 


. 119 


Dogem 


. 65 


Dbggingen . 


. 164 


DonaueBOhingen . 


. 95 


Dorf .... 


. 163 


Domstetten . 


. 84 


Dreisanij The 


37,49 


Dreisam Canal, The . 


. 53 


Duribach 


. 35 


Durrheim . 




Eberstein, Alt . 


. 33 


f, Schloss 


. 34 


Ebersteinburg 


• 33 


Ebnet. 


. 134 


Eckartsbrunn 


. lOI 


Ecke, The . 


. 151 


Eckkopf . 


. 118 


Eckle . . . . 


. 119 


Edelfrauengrab, The . 


. 129 


Efringen 


. 55 


Ehlenbogenthal, The . 




Eichelbach, The. 


. 82 


Eigeltingen . 


. lOI 


Eimeldingen. 


. . 55 


Einach 


. 75 


Elz, The 


. 37, 39 


Elzach 


. 151 


Elzthal 


. 151 


Emmindingen 


. . 38 


Emmingen . 


. lOI 


Endingen . 


. . 38 


Engelskanzel 


. 116 


„ (Allerheili 


^en). 130 


Engen 


. . 99 


Engenbrmmen 


. 165 


Ennentach . 


: :'^ 


Entenschloss, The 


Enz, The . 


. 124 


Enz Valley . 


. 121, 122 


Enzklbsterle. 


• 124 


Erdmiinnleinhbhle, Th< 


i . 162 


Erlenbad, The . 


. 35, 126 


Erlenburg, The . 


. 153 


Ermatigen . 


. 113 


Ermatingen . 


. 70 


Erzingen 


. . 65 


Erzkasten, The . 


. 52 


Eschbachthal 


. . 152 



Eschenz 
Eselsbruimen 
Espachtherthal, The 
Ettenheim . 
Ettenheimmunster 
Ettlingen 
Eugensberg . 
Ej^ch Valley 

Fahl . 
Fahrenbach. 
Fahrenbuhl . 
Falkau 
Falkauerthal 
Falkenstein . 

HbUenthal 
Faulenfirst, The . 
Favorite, The 
Feldbach . 

Feldberg, The 

FeldbergSee 
Felsen, The . 
Fischetz, The 
Fitch, The . 
Fliedersee, The . 
Forbach 
Forbach, The 
Forbachthal 
Fort Alexander . 
Fort Motier. 
Frauenalb Abbey 

Freiburg. 

Anatomical Museum 
Anatomi^ebande 
Archbishop's Palace 
Barracks . 
Berthold Strasse 
Blind Asylum . 
Btirger Spital . 
Cemetery, Old 
Charity, House of 
Convict Prison . 
English Church 
Environs . 
Felsenbierkeller 
Fish Market . 
Forest Economy, School 
Fountains. 
Franciscan Church 



PAGE 

. 70 
. 121 

. 135 

. 37 

. 76 

. 121 

. 70 
. 121 

153, 159 
. 138 
. 87 
. 139 

139, 164 
87, 121 

134 
140 

34 
70 

153 

153*154 

32 

67 
142 



119 
120 

134 

54 
121 

48 
46 
46 
48 
48 
49 
50 
49 
49 
47 
49 
49 

47 
of 49 

4 



ti 



INDEX. 



197 



PAGE 
Freiburg {continued) :— 

Grand Ducal Palace . . 46 

Giinthersthal . . . 52 

Gymnasium . . • 49 

Hebsack . . . .52 

Herder Institute . .49 

Herdem . . . . $1 

History . . . .40 

Jagerhauschen . . .52 

Kuserstrasse, The . . 47 

Karlsplatz. . . .47 

Kaufhaus. . . .46 

Klngenderstuhl. . . 50 

Kunsthalle . . .47 

Kybfelsen. . . .52 

Loge, The . . .49 

Lorettoberg . . .50 

Loretto Chapel. . . 50 

LudwigshShe . . 49 

Manufactories . . .52 

Martin, St., Church of. . 49 

Martinsthor, St., The . 47 

Mortuary Chapel . .51 

Miinster . . . .41 

Museum . . . •49 

Ottilien, St., Chapel. . 52 

Protestant Church . . 47 

RosskopC The . . •52 
Rotheck Platz ... 48 

Rotheck, Statue of . .48 

Schlossberg . . .49 

Schonehof, The . . 52 

Schonberg, The . . 52 

Schwabenthor, The . . 49- 

Schwarz, Statue of . .48 

Stadthaus, The. . .48 

Swimming Bath . . 50 
Theatre .... 48 

University . . .48 

Witches' Valley . . 50 
Freiersbach . . . 79, 132 

Fremersberg, The . . 34 

Freudenfels Castle . , 70 

Freudenstadt . 83 

Friedingen . . . . loi 

Friedrich Louisen Thurm . 154 

Friedrichshafen . . . 109 

Friedrichshbhe, The . .113 
Friedrichsthal(byBaiersbronn) 120 



Friesenheim. 

Frohnschwand 

Fuldau. 

Furschenbach 

Furstenberg. 

Fursteneck, The 

Furtwangen 



. PAGE 

. 36 
142, 148 

. 114 

. 129 

. 98 

131 
150 



93» 



125 

91 
126 

164 

118 

le 
98 

74 
70 

54 



Gaisbach 

Galgen 

Gartelbach, The 

Gauchach, The 

Gausbach . 

Geisberg, The 

Geisingen . 

Gengenbach. 

George, St., Abbey 

Georgen, St. (by Freiburg) . 

Georgen^ St. (by Villin- 

gen) 91 

Gfremsbaoh . 34, 116 

Geroldsau . . . * 34 

Geschwand . . . I59i 163 

Giesiboden . . . .163 

Glaserwsdd, The . . .121 

Glasswald See . . .82 

Glotterthal, The . . 39, 152 

Goggingen . . . .111 

Gorheim . . . .112 
Gorwyl .... 143 

Gottenheim. . . 38, 53 

Gottlieben . . . .70 

Gottmadingen . . . 103 

Gottschlag3ial, The . . 129 

Graben, The , . .116 
Gremmelsbach ... 91 

Grenzach . . . .63 

Griesbaoh . . 82, 133 

Griesbach Valley . . .150 
Griessen . . . .65 
Grindenbach, The . .129 
Gruftkirche, The (Niedingen) 98 
Grunigen . . . .95 
Gumpelscheuer . . .124 
Gundelfingen . . .39 
Gundelwangen . . . 165 
Giinthersthal, The . 52, 152 
Gunzberg .... 127 
Gunzenbachthal, The • « 33 



198 



INDEX. 



Gurtweil 
Gutach. 
Gutach, The 
Gutach Valley 
Giitenbach . 
Gutmadingen 

Haagen 
Hagenbrugg 
Halbmeil . 
Halden 
Haltingen . 
Hammereisenbach 
Hardtkopf . 
Harpoligen . 
Hasel . 

Hasslach 

Hattingen . 
Hattozell 

Hauenstein . 

Haufingen . 

Hausaoh . 

Haus Baden . 

Hausen 

Hausem 

Hebelshohe, The 

Hebsack 

Hecklingen . 

Hedingen . 

Heidburg, The 

Heitersheim 

Herblm£[en . 

Herbolzheim 

Herdem 

Herrenalb . 

Herrenschwand 

Herrenwiese 

Herrischried 

Herz<^enweiler 

Hesselbach . 

Heubronn . 

Hilpertsau . 

Himmelreich 

Hinterzarten 

Hintschmgen 

Hirsau 

Hirschau 

Hirschsprung, The 

HJrzwald 



PAGE 
65, 148 

84, I 



84,85 

136, 151 
. 98 



160 

128 

82 



97, 



65 



142 



54 



117 
138 



123 



152 

120 

64 
161 

76 

99 

"5 

142 

93 

77 

156 

160 

149 
160 

52 

37 
112 

72 
158 

103 

37 

51 
121 

161 

64 
84,98 

131 
157 

sei 

135 

98 
114 
124 
136 

91 



PAGE 

Hochblauen, The . . 159 

Hochburg, Rums. . . 38 
Hbchenschwand . . 142, 145 
Hochkopf, The . 75, 161, 163 
Hochstadt . . . .76 
Hochwacht, The . . .113 

Hbfen 123 

Hofstetten . . . .77 
Hohenhaden Alte Schloss • 32 
Hohengeroldseck Castle 37, 75 



Hohenhowen, The 
Hohenklingen 
Hohenkrahen 
Hohen Lupfen . 
Hohenrad, The , 
Hohenstoffeln 
Hohentwiel, The 

Hohgau, The 

Hohlohkopf 
Hokinrodf . 
Holdereck, The 
Holdzwalder Hohe, The 
HoUe. The . 
Hblle, Kleine 
Hbllenhaken, The 
Hbllenpass . 
HoUensteig, The . 

HdllentEal, The 

Hblsteig 
Holzscmag . 
Homburg, Ruins . 
Horb . 
Horben 
Homberg . 
Homberg Castle . 

Hornisgrinde, The 

Homstein . 
Hosenland . 
Hub, The . 
Hubackerhof 
Hubbad 
Hiifingen 
Hugstetten . 
Huhnersedels, The 
Hundsbach . 
Hiiningen . 
Huttersbach Baths 
Huttersbacher Valley 
I Hutzenbach. 



100, lOI 
70 

lOI 

I6S 

126 

lOI 
102 

99 
121 

128 

118 

82 

% 

64 
136 
136 

134 

137 
165 
no 

84 

% 

86 
126 

"3 
142 

35 
131 

98, 164 

76 

125 

55,63 

75 

75 
119 





INDEX. 


199 


] 


PAGE 




PAGE 


Ibach 


132 


Eliraeck Castle 


• 93 


Ibenthal . . . . 


152 


Kirsdibaumwassen 


. 119 


Ihrigen • • • 3 


8,53 


EUem Basel . 


. 55 


nienau . . . . 


35 


Kldne Hblle 




Immendingen 


99 


Kleinhunigen 


: 56 


Immeneich . . 142, 143 


, 148 


Kleinkems . 


. 55 


Innerlehen . . . . 


163 


Klein Lauffenburg 


. 64 


Inzighofen . . . . 


"3 


Klemmbach Valley 


. 157 


Isteiner Klotz 


55 


Klengen 


. 95 






Klingel Chapel . 


. IID 


Jacob, St, Battle-field of . 


63 


Klosterle 


80,82 


Jacobskapelle, The 
J osephsberg, The . 


79 


Klotz, Isteiner- . 


. 55 


. 112 


Eniebis, The . 


. 134 






Kniebis Baths 


80, 132 


Kaisershaus . . . . 


163 


Kniebis Road 


. 120, 133 


Eaiserstohl, The . 


37 


Kniebis (Village) . 


. 134 


Catherine, St., Chapel of . 


38 


KoUnau 


. 152 


Neun Linden . 


38 


Konigsfdd Peterzell 


86, 88, 92 


Todtenkopf . 


3! 


Kbnigswart Castle. 


119, 125 


Vc^bnrg . . . , 


. 38 


Koudringen . 


. 38 


Kaltenbronn 


, 121 


Krauchenwies 


. Ill 


Kamersbach, The 


, 82 


Kreuzbrudce 


. . 89 


Kandel, The . i35» 151 


» 152 


Kreuzlein, The . 


. 121 


Kander, The 


. 55 


Kreuzlingen Abbey 


. 107 


Kandem . . . . 


> 157 


Kriegerthal, The . 


. lOI 


Kanzli . • . . 


. 67 


Krinne, Sennhutte in d 


er . 158 


Kippel . . .53 


, 129 


Kronedcbeig 


. 90 


KappelerThal . . 33 


, 129 


Krotzingen . 


. 54, 158 


Kappdle, The . . . 


. 120 


Kussenberg Ruins 


. . 6$ 


Kappelenbei^ . 
Kasselstein, The . 


, 90 


Kutterau 


. 142 


. 82 


Kybfelsen , 


. 52 


Kastdberg . 


• 73 






Kauersbach, The . 


.118 


La Wanne . 


. 162 


Kehl .... 


. 36 


Lachtenthal 


. 116 


Keinadi Valley . 


. 93 


Lahr . 


• 36, 75 


KellerbUd, The . 


> 33 


T^ndedc Castle . 


. 38 


Kenzingen . 


• 37 


Landolin, St. 


. . 76 


Kembach, The . 


. 92 


TAndskron . 


. . 63 


Kilben 


• 151 


Langeaau . 


. 157 


Kilbenstrasse, The 


. 151 


Langenbadi . 


. 119 


Kingenderstuhl . 


*8, §2 


Tiangenbrand 


. 118 


Kinzig, The . .36, 5 


Tiangen Schiltach, 


. 86 


Kinzigthal . . 37, 75, 5 


7,82 


Langenstein . I0( 


y, loi, no 


Kippenheim 


. 37 


Lauchenthal 


. 113 


Kirchzarten . 


• 135 


lAuchringen, Ober- 


. . 65 


Kirchzarterthal . 


. 134 


Laudiringen, Unter- 


. . 65 


Kimadi Unter . 


• 92 


Lauf CasUe . 


• 35 


Kimbach 


. 77 


Lauffen, Schloss . 


. 67 


Kirnbach Valley . 


. 79 


Lauffenburg 


. . 64 



200 



INDEX. 





PAGE 




PAGE 


Lauffenburg Klein 


. 64 


Mittelzell . 


. IIS 


Lautenbach . 


. 122 


Molzbauer . 


• 53 


Lauterbach . 


. 87 


Mbnchweiler 


. 92 


Lauterbach, River 


. 87 


Mooswald, The . 


• 53 


Lehngericht . 


. 82 


Motier Fort . 


. 54 


Lenzkiroh 

Leopold's Canal, The . 


. 164 
. 37 


Mur^nbrugg . . . 
Miihlberg, The . 


. 152 
. 112 


Leopoldshbhe 


• 55 


Miihlenbach 


. 76 


Leventhal . 


. 138 


Muhlingen . 


. Ill 


Lichtenegg, Ruins 


. 37 


Mnhlingen (Titi See) . 


139. 164 


Lichthenthal Convent . 


. 33 


Miihlhausen . 


. 101 


Liebenzell . 


. 123 


Miillheim . 


• 54 


Lindau 


. 109 


Mummelsee, The. 


^0 • 

. «7 


Lindelstein . 


. 98 


Miinchweiler 


. 76 


Lipplingen . 


. JOI 


Mundigen . 
Munoth Castle 


. 38 


Littenweiler . 


' 53 


. 69 


Locherberg . 


. 132 


Murg .... 


. 64 


Loffenau 


. 120 


Murg, The . 


64, 116 


Lbffingen 


. 164 


Murg, Red, The . 


. H9 


Lohningen . 
Lorettoberg . 


. 165 


Murg, White, I'he 


. 119 


. 50 


Murgthal, The . 


. 117 


Loretto Chapel (Freiburg) 


. 50 


Munsterthal, The . 54, 


76,158 


Loretto Chapel (Doggingen) 


. 164 


Munsterthal, Unter- 


. 158 


Lorraoh . 


. 160 


Munsterthal, Ober- 


. 158 


Luttingen . 


. 65 


Muttersleben 


. 162 


Lutzelhard, The . 


' 37 










Nagold 


. 84 


Magdeberg, The . 


. lOI 


„ River 


. 124 


Mahlberg . . . , 


' 37 


Nagoldthal, The . 


. 124 


Mainau • . . . 


108 


Nassbach . 


. 130 


Maisburg . .• . , 


. 159 


Neckar Valler 


. 98 


Malterdingen 


- 38 


Nellenburg . 


. Ill 


Mambach . . . , 


. 159 


Nenzin|[en . 


. no 


Manastein Convent 


' ^3 


Neu Wmdeck 


• 35 


Mannskopf, The . 


. 118 


Neuenberg . . 54, ] 


[21, 123 


Marbach . • . . 


95 


Neuenstein . 


• 131 


Margen, St • . . 
Markelfingen 


135 


Neuenweg . 


:'I2 


104 


Neufurstenberg . 


Martinskapelle, The . 91 


, 150 


Neuhaus 


.. 97 


Maulburg . . . . 


169 


., (by Baden) . 


. 116 


Maurus, St, Chapel . 


"3 


„ (Allerheiligen) 


. 124 


Mautzenstein, The 


121 


Neuhausen . 


65,66 


Mehlinskopf, The 


125 


Neuhbwen . 


. 100 


Mengen . • • . 


"3 


Neukrenkingen . 


• 99 


Menningen . . • . 


III 


Neumiihl . . . i 


57. 158 


Menzenschwand . 


»39 


Neun Linden 


. 38 


Mercuriusberg, The 


33 


Neunkirch . 


. 65 


Messkirch • . • . 


III 


Neusalzerthal, The 


• 35 


Mittelthal , . . . 


120 


Neustadt. 


• 163 



INDEX. 



201 



143 



135 



Nieder Schopf heim 
Niedermuhle . 142 
Niederzell . 
Niedingen . 
Niederwasser 

Niederwasser Valley 

Nippenbtirg Castle 
Nonnenbachthal . 
Nordracher Thai . 
Nothschrei . 
Nussbach Falls . 

Ober-Lauchringen 
Ober Miinsterthal 
Ober Simonswald 
Oberachem . 
Oberbeuren . 
Oberbildstein 
Oberharmersbach. 
Oberheubronn 
Oberhbllsteig 
Oberkappel . 

Oberkiroh 

Oberkirchen 

Oberreichenbach 

Oberried 

Oberschwaben 

Oberstaad 

Oberthal 

Obertsroth 

Oberweiler 

Oberwolfach 

Oberzell 

Ochsenkopf . 

Oeflingen 

Oehningen 

Oelbach, The 

Offenburg 

Oos 

Oos, The . 

Oppenau 

Orschweier . 

Ortenau 

Ortenberg . 

,, Schloss 
Oswald, St., Chapel 
Ottilia, St. . 

Ottenhofen . 

Ottersweier . 



PAGE 

148 
'^ 

89 

88 
87 

76 
152 

91 

^1 
158 

129 

116 

142 

76 

138 
127 

130 

129 

88 

135 
102 

70 

120 

117 

159 

77 

"5 
125 

162 

70 

36, 73 

34 

25 

132 

37 

73 

74 

36, 74 

137 

161 

129 

35 



Paradies 
Peters, St . 

Petersthal, Bad 

Peterzell Konigsfeld 

Pfakgrafenweiler 

Pfohren 

Pforzheim 

PfuUendorf . 
Poppethal . 
Prag . 
Pragbach 
Prechthal, The 
Prinzbachthal 



PAGE 

. 70 

• 135 
. 132 

86, 88, 92 

. 84 

. 98 

. 123 

. Ill 

. 124 

161, 163 

159, i6i, 163 

77, 150 
. 75 



Radolfzell . 
Ramstein Castle 
Randa Pass. 
Rappenschliffen 
Raubach Valley 
Raumunzach, The 
Ravennathaly The. 

Beiohenau Island 

Belvedere, The. 

Cathedral 

Friedrichshohe, The 

Hattozell . 

Hochwacht, The 

Mittelzell. 

Monastery 

Niederzell 

Oberzell • 

Schoffeln . 

Unterzell . 
Reichenau, Station 
Reichenbach, The 

(Muigthal) 
Unter- 
Valley 
Reichenthal . 
Reinerzau . 
Rench, The. 
Renchen 
Renchthal, The . 35 

Bheinfelden 

Rheinweiler. 

Rhine, The 
Bhine, Falls of the 

Fischetz, The 
K&nzli,The 



t9 



104 

88 
97 

133 
125 

118 

137 

70. "3 

"3 

"5 

"3 

"5 

"3 

"5 

"5 

"5 

"5 

"5 
114 

104 

85 
119 

124 

121 

121 

82 

130 

35 

130 

64 

55 

etc. 

66 

67 
67 



35. 
129, 



25, 



202 



INDEX. 



Falls of the Bhine 

tinued) : — 
Railway Bridge. 
Schloss Laufen . 
Schlosschen Worth 
Umbrella, The. 

Riber, The . 

Rickelshausen 

Riegel . 

Riegelsberg . 

Rienen. 

Rimbach, The 

Rinken, Auf dem . 

Bippoldsau . 

Rohitlorf . 
Ronan, St. . 
Rosenstem, The . 
Rossbiihl, The . 
Rossbiihlschanze, The 
Rosskopf, The . 
Roth . 
Rothenbach . 
Rothenbacher Schanze 
Rothwiese Cascade 
Rotteln, Schloss . 
Rotterweiler 
Rottweil 
Ruhstein 
RiiUi . 

Saatfield 
Sackingen 
Salenstein 
Salzburg 
Sasbach 

Sasbachwald . 
Battel . 
Sauersberg, The . 

Sohaffhausen. 

Schalstadt . 
Schapbach . 
Schapbachthal 
Schsufenstein 
Schauenberg, Rums 

Sohauindand, The. 

Sdiauli. 
Scbeer 

Scbembach, The . 
Scbenkenzell 



PAGE 



(con- 



52 



68 

66 

66 

66 
103 
104 

37 

79 
161 

82 

•IS 

III 

79 
120 

133 

133 
152 

119 

161 

163 

159 
160 

161 

93 
120 

161 

165 
64 

158 

35 
127 

157 
34 
69 

54 

79 

79 

158 

131 
152 

91 

"3 

S2 



Schiltach, The . 
Schiltach . 

,, Castle . 

9, Langen . 
Schiltachthal, The 
SchUteck Castle . 
Schlachtenhaus • 
Schlatt 
Schlectnau . 
Schleisthal . 
Schleitheun . 
Schlenkenberg 
Schllengen . 
Schloss Burgeln . 
Schloss Eberstein • 
Schloss Laufen • 
Schloss Ortenberg 
Schloss Rottehi . 
Schlos^berg . 
Schlosschen Worth, The 
Schlossmuhle 
Schluchsee . 

Schluchsee, The 

Schluct, The 
Schmallbach 
Schoffeln Castle . 
Schonach . 
Schonachthal 
Schonau 

Schonbeig, The . 
Schonberg . 
Schonehof, The . 
Schonengrund 
Schonmunzach 
Schonmiinzach, The 
Schonneberg 
Schonwald . 

Sohdpfheim . 

SchopHieim, Nieder 
Schramberg. 

„ Castle 

Schringen . 
Schunnenberg 
Schutter, The 
Schutterthal, The. 
Schuttem . 
Schutterlmdenburg 

S<^'W^«Mev>}Oaft • 



PAGE 

. 87 
. 82 

. 82 

. 87 
. 82 

. 87 
. 160 
• lOI 

159, 163 
. 148 
. 165 
. lOI 

55. 157 
. 156 

34* "6 
. 67 
. 36 

• 160 

• 49 
. 66 

. 164 

. 140 
. 14D 
65, 148 
. «s 
. "5 

«• 9* 
82,87 

158, 159 

5« 

75 

52 

159 
119 

119 

158 

150 

160 



91. 



!,87 



82. . 

87 

156 

lOI 

36, 37, 73 

36 
^^. 133 



INDEX. 



203 



Schwarzenbach, The 
Schwarzenberg . 
Schwarzenbergerbach 
SchwedenschiHize, The 
Schweighausen . 
Schweighof. 
Schwellungen, The 
Schwellung, Grosse, The 
Schwenning^n • 
Seebach, The . 79, 
Seebruck . 
Seebruck, The 
Seebuck, The 
Seelach, The 
S^;alen 
Sehl Castle . 
Sennhutte in der Krinne 
Sentenhart . . 
Siebesleck, The . 

Sigmaringen . 

Sk;marmgen, Castle 

Sunonswald . 

Simonswald, Ober- 
Simonswald, Unter- 

Singen 

Singen Forest 
Siirnieun 
Simitz. 
Sohlbeig, The 
Sommerau . 
Sommerbere, The 
Sonnenbluck 
Sophienruhe, The 
Sophienstrasse^ The 
Spielw^, Am 
Stahringen • 
Stattener Schlossle 
Staufen • • 
Staufenbeig Castle 
Staufenbuig . 
StaufTenberg. 
Steckhom . 
Steig (Renchthal) 
Stein . 
Steinach 

Steinachthal, The 
Steinbach . 
Steinen 
SteJnscbloss, The. 



PAGE 

. 118 
. 119 
. 119 

. 133 

. 76 

. 156 

. 118 

. 118 

95*98 
82, 119 

. 140 

. 159 

. 154 

. 34 
. 148 

. 64 

. 158 

. Ill 

. 119 

99, III 

. 112 

. 150 
. 151 

. 151 

• 102 

. 104 

. 34 

. 157 

. 131 
72,91 

. 82 

. 162 

. 129 

. 116 

. 158 

. no 

. 100 

54,158 

• 36 
54,158 

. 116 
. 70 

131 
103 

76 

162 

34 
64 



70, 



Stemen . 


. 137 


Stetten 


100, 161 


Stockach 


. lit 


Stockburg . 


. 92 


Streitberg . 


37.76 


StShlinger Alp . 


. 165 


Stuhlingen . 


. 165 


Suggenthal . 
Sulzbach, The . 


. 152 


54,131 


Siilzbachthal, The. 


. 131 


Tafelbuhl . 


. 151 


Tannenfels, Ruins 


. 120 


Tassbruchen, The 


. 100 


Tegemau . 


. 159 


Teufelsbett . 


. 122 


Teufelsgrab . 
Teufelskammem . 


. 122 

. 122 


Teufelskanzel 


. 75, 116 


Teufelsmiihle 


120, 122 


Teufelsstein.. 


•. 130 


Thalmuhle . 


' 99, loi 


Thayingen . 


. 103 


Thennenbachy Convent 


• il 


Thennenbronn . 


. . 88 


Thiengen 


► 65, 165 


Thier^uten . 


• 131 


Tiefemuusem 


. 142, 148 


Tiefenstein . 


. 143 


TitiSee . 


. 139 


Tizenhau^n 


. Ill 


Todtenkopf, The . 


. . 38 


Todtenmann 


. 153 


Todtmoss . 


. 149, 161 


Todtmoos Au 


. 162 


Todtnau . 


. 153, 159 


Todnauberg . 


. 152, 153 


Triberg . 


. 89 


Exhibition 


. 90 


Waterfell . • . 


. 90 


Trudpert, St. 
Tudbberg . 


. 158 


. lOI 


Tnllinger Hbhe, The 
Tusculnm Waterfell 


. 161 
. 141 


Tuttlingen . 


. 99 


Ueberlingen See . 


. no 


\3€^sSSai%jscL « 


. vi9» 


y \3\\«c&Sa^'^««& , 


• v>^ 



204 



INDEX. 



Unter Kirnach . 
Unter Lauchringen 
Unter MSnstertnal 
Unter Reichenbach 
Unter Simonswald 
Unterharmersbacher Thai 
Untersee, The 
Unterzell 
Urach . 
Umagold . 
Utzenfeld 

Vietrichue, The 

Villingen. 
Vohrenbaoh 

Volkertehausen 
Vorder Todtmoos 
Vormthal • 
Vosges 



Wj^ensteig Valley 
Wahlwies • 

Waldkiroh 

Waldkirch (by Waldshut) 

Waldshut . 65 

Wallfidirtsberg . 
Wallfahrtskapelle. 
Wallfialirtskirche • 
Walterdingen 
Wanne, La . 
Wartenberg . 
Wasen 

Wasserberg Valley 
Wasserloch Watemll 
Wehr .... 162, 
Wehia, The 
Wehnstrasse, The 

Wehrathal, The 143, 149, 

Weinbach . 
Wdngarten . 
Weissenbach 
Wellendingen 
Welschingen • 
WelschstSnnach . 
Wendolin, St, Chapel 
Werrack Castle . 
Whylen 



70, 



PAGE 
. 92 

• ^5 
. 158 

. 124 

76 

104 

. 114 

. 164 

. 124 

158, 189 

. 142 

93. 164 
. 38 

93» '64 
. 100 
. 161 
. 82 

25, etc 



«35 
no 

^H 
148 

148 

89 
91 
149 
98 
162 

98 
158 

lOI 

'S3 

149 

161 
162 
162 

159 

36 

117 

165 

lOI 

76 

131 
162 

63 



Wiedereneck, The 
Wieden 

Wiedenbach, The. 
Wiese, The . 

Wiesenthal 

Wieslet 

Wildbad 

Kuhlen Bnume 
Panoramaw^ 
Royal Park 
Schweigerhaus 
Wmdhof . 

Wfldenberg Casde 

Wildgotachthal 

Wildschapbachthal 

Wadsee, The 

Wilfingen • 

Wilheknsthal, St. 

Wilschingen. 

Windeck, Alt 
„ Neu 

VTmdhof . 

Windschlag. 

Wisnich . 

Witches VaUey 

Witznan 

WolfiEUSh . 

Wolfberg, The 

Wolfechluct, The. 

Wundersee . 

Wiirm River 

Wutach, The 

Ybuig 

Zahringen . 
Zarten. 

Zastlerthal, The 
Zell (by Offnibuig) 

Zell-am- 

ZeU>im- Wiesenthal 
Zeller Blauen 
Zeller Lake . 
Zimmerholz . 
Zinunem • 
ZoUhaus 
Zweribach Falls 
Zwickgabel . 



PAGE 

•'^ 
. 158 

. 125 

. 158 

. 158 

. 157 
. 122 

. «3 
. 123 
. 123 
. 123 
. 123 

. "3 
. 136 

79.132 
79, 82, 121 

. 143 

135.154 

65 

34 

35 
124 

35 
134 

148 

78 

79 
116 

M7 
124 

65,163 
• 34 



I35i 



Harmersbaoh 



39 
134 

160 
160 
104 
100 

99 

164 

151 
H9 



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