Cordon Training of Fruit Trees: Diagonal Vertical, Spiral, Horizontal ...

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.

LONDON

PKNITBD BY SI'OTTI SWOOOB AND CO.

NEW-gTREET SQUARE

CORDON TRAINING

FRUIT TREES

DIAGONAL, VERTICAL, SPIRAL, HORIZONTAL

ADAPTED TO THE ORCHARD-HOUSE AND OPEN-AIR CULTURE

EEV. T. COLLINGS BK^HAUT

/,

LONDON

LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS

1860

CONTENTS.

Chapter Page

I. Introductory 1

II. General Principles of Fruit Culture ... 8

III. Seasons for Planting and Pruning .16

IV. Defects of some Methods of Fruit Culture . 24
V. Cordon Training ; its Advantages and Uses . 29

VI. Cordon Training in Peach Trees ; the Diagonal

Cordon * 36

VII. Spiral Cordons 59

VIII. Vertical Cordons . •. . .61

IX. Horizontal Cordons 64

X. Cordon Training in Apricot Trees .67

XI. Cordon Training in Plum and Cherry Trees . .71

XII. Cordon Training in Pear Trees . . .77

XIII. Horizontal, Vertical, and Spiral Cordons in Pear

Trees 82

XIV. Eemarks on Trees in Pots 86

XV. How to Supply Blank Spaces in Cordons . 95

XVI. Objections to Cordon Training answered 98

XVII. Eemarks on the Dimensions, &c, suitable for

Orchard-houses 103

XVIII. Names of some Varieties recommended for In-
door and Out-door Culture . .106
XIX. Concluding Observations 114

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Frontispiece to face Htlepage.

Figure to face page

I. Fruit-spur on the Peach, showing the suc-
cessive growths, and alternate pruning. „ 52
II. Fruit-spurs on the Peach. ~ Alternate

Pruning — Second Appearance . . „ 54

III. Formation of Fruit-spurs on the Apricot.

— First Winter's Pruning „ 68

IV. Formation of Fruit-spurs on the Apricot.

— Second Winter's Pruning „ 70

V. Formation of Spurs on the Plum. — First

Winter's Pruning . . . . „ 72
VI. Formation of Fruitful Spurs on the Plum.

— Second Winter's Pruning . . . „ 74
VII. Formation of Fruitful Spurs on the Pear.

— Commencement . . . . ,, 78
VIII. Formation of Fruitful Spurs on the Pear.

— Completion „ 80

& OF THE > N >

CORDON TRAINING.

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTORY.

Most books, whatever their size or subject, are
better understood for some sort of prefatory re-
marks, and in an age and country in which
horticulture meets with such high patronage, it
may seem presumptuous for an amateur to treat
of such a subject; it may appear uncalled
for ; and may even require explanation of his
motives.

This feeling is not altogether without its uses,
and the author hastens to say, that this short
work is the result of much leisure time, which
an enforced idleness, the result of over-fatigue
in the charge of a large parish, unexpectedly
created.

Summer after summer, and winter after winter,
was passed by him abroad. It was impossible to'

B

o

2 CORDON TRAINING.

be unemployed, and thus he was enabled to ob-
serve the various modes of fruit culture practised
in different countries.

This is an advantage, which is not always
within the reach of the most experienced gar-
dener. But with the exception of certain in-
digenous fruits, it is not necessary so to wander
to be convinced of the inferiority of continental
gardening, taken as a whole, compared with that
of England. It is only as we return northwards,
that we can appreciate the skill by which the
very necessities of climate have led to the in-
troduction of methods which have more than
compensated for the want of sun heat. A liberal
fuse of glass enables us, ey§n _wMlQ5t'^ctifi©i%l
/hgat, to obtain dry and equable temperatures,
Which rival the climate of the most fertile portions
( of France ; and this without risk of damage
) from the spring frosts, which, in those localities,
Vare so injurious to vegetation.

It is not too much to anticipate the day when
every small garden will be considered deficient
in one of its most indispensable requisites, if it
fail to have its orchard house, as well as its modest
vinery. Persons of moderate means will ever
find the orchard house a source of amusement
and profit. It is easy to construct ; equally easy
to stock ; the management is simple and readily
understood, and the author is very desirous of
showing how a moderate amount of expense will

IMPERFECTION OP FRUIT CULTURE. 3

enable any one to be his " own gardener," and
be thus liberated from a degrading dependence
on the caprice of unskilled men.

To his brethren, the clergy, scattered in vil-
lages, and thus necessarily somewhat dependent
on the limited resources which these can supply,
it seemed to him a grateful task to state his own
experience, and if he shall be able in any degree
to simplify the practice of fruit culture, and
thus save a portion of their invaluable time, his
own labour will certainly not have been thrown
away.

There is no doubt that fruit culture is, as yet,
very imperfectly understood, even by scientific
men. Great advances are, however, being made
daily in this interesting branch, and it is certain
that few things tend more to further this pro-
gress, than a simple and honest description of
experience. Every one can thus greatly judge
for himself; and, by comparing his own obser-
vations with the notes made by others, who are
not more skilful, but who have more leisure, he
may reach a certain standard, which must be of
immense value in practice. It is difficult to
account for the reticence observed in these
matters, and this is, doubtless, one great reason
why we do not advance as we should.

At the same time it is absolutely necessary to
be cautious in drawing conclusions from isolated
facts. There are many concurrent circumstances

B 2

4 CORDON TRAINING,

to be taken into consideration, which are not
always allowed, at the time, to have their due
weight. It thus often happens that the observer
who feels almost certain of some new and im-
portant discovery, has too often to recant his errors
before the close of the season. All these doubts
greatly check and embarrass the amateur, but
they have their uses in preventing rash and vain
experiments, as well as in saving unnecessary
expense. But in cases where, after a certain
time allowed for reflection, a succession of ascer-
tained results have arisen, any one, actuated by
the simple desire to communicate his own ad-
vantages to others, can never be open to censure.
A man who does this only fulfils his duty.

The author, as stated, had been in delicate
health for a long period ; and this cause has ren-
dered him desirous of making known to invalids
the benefits arising from the study of Fruitxjulture,
which in all its branches is so suitable a pursuit
for such persons, In the form of Orchard-house
culture little can be better adapted to restore
health ; for from the dry state of the atmosphere,
and the free circulation of air uncharged with the
odours emanating from flowers, a walk in almost
all weathers is secured ; while the mind, diverted
from gloomy thoughts, by the sight of the beau-
tiful young trees, either in full blossom or laden
with fruit, or even in their rest, gains a healthy

THE TRIPLE DIAGONAL CORDON* 5

tone, and finds all suggestive in the highest degree.
The writer never suffered, as he feared, from
draughts of cold air ; though, of course, common
precautions must be observed, as in rough weather,
or in periods of frost.

His own Orchard-house has been to him a source
of untiring pleasure, and he has learnt in it more
of the habits of the various trees than could ever
have been expected under the old systems* The
variety of the trees is so great, their habits and
products are so different, that the attention is soon
arrested, and the cultivator cannot avoid remarking
all this. But if, in addition, he has the patience
to follow up the seasons, note-book in hand, it is
truly astonishing how much a mere amateur may
quickly and readily learn. Open air culture has,
of course, its own peculiar charms, though not so
fascinating, and no doubt is preferable in very hot
weather.

Another motive which presented itself, was
the wish to make known the decided success
of a novel method of fruit culture, called gene-
rally " Cordon Training." One form had been
found extremely adapted for the back wall of
a lean-to orchard-house; this was the Diagonal
Cordon, with three leaders, — a form which
may be considered as the perfection of the
whole method. It has a certain resemblance to
the single oblique training practised so success-
fully at Montreuil, near Paris ; very important

B 3

6 CORDON TRAINING.

modifications were required, however, before any
practical result could be depended upon.

The climate of France is so different from that
of England, that what is proper in the one case
becomes almost useless in the other ; and the whole
system now presented to the public is so altered,
so combined, and, in the case of Orchard-house
culture, so fundamentally different from the
French system, that it may be considered as a
separate method, originating from several others.
Examples of this will abundantly occur as the
various forms are entered into and described. It
will be sufficient here to state, that the repeated
summer pinchings, by which the shoots on the
spurs are rendered compact and fruitful, are
partly described in a work published in 1812.
This suggested the system put into practice at
Chartres very lately. In the Orchard-house it
£ \ must soon supersede any other, and is recom-
mended in the eighth edition of Mr. Rivers' ex-
cellent work. Of course in the case of Diagonal
training, important modifications have beenintro*
duced, rendered necessary by the angle at which
the trees lie, and also by the exigencies of the
climate.
/ As the French have no cultivation worth men-
/ tioning under glass (and indeed it is only in Eng-
land that this invaluable advantage is properly
appreciated), the treatment of these spurs requires
peculiar changes, more especially in the case of

*?w

PRODUCE OF ORCHARD-HOUSE. 7

pottefl trees, in which the scientific research of
Mr. Rivers has created a new field.

With respect to the actual results as yet ob-
tained, the back wall of my Orchard-house, which
is a lean-to, produced this year at the rate of three
peaches per square foot.

On this wall alone the produce was at the rate ^
of 600 fine peaches and nectarines (some of the
former were nine inches in circumference), so that
a house 100 feet long and proportionately broad,
might reasonably be expected to produce 2000
nectarines and late peaches on the back wall, and
at least as many more apricots and mid-season
fruits upon the rows of trees in pots.

This crop, by no means an extraordinary one
in fair seasons, could reasonably be hoped for by
following the Cordon training which is here de-
scribed.

One word more as to the expense of Orchard-
houses. At the usual rate, one 30 feet long by
12 broad, should not cost more than 30/. The
returns for this outlay would be great under fair
management, the more so as 3Z. or 4/. in addition
would be sufficient to stock the house with trees,
half of them in a bearing state. A week's visit
to the Continent would cost quite as much as this
handsome ornament to a garden woum, aatafford,
in the course of time, far more real amusement.

B4

CORDON TRAINING.

CHAP. II.

GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF FRUIT CULTURE.

The details, brief as they are, of this work,
would not readily be appreciated if a few general
principles, obvious and reasonable, were not first
stated. General maxims are often neglected in
practice, so that it becomes necessary to repeat
them in a short work such as this, because they
render the details more intelligible.

Many unskilled persons assert that the scientific
culture of fruit trees has neither the effect of in-
creasing their productive powers, nor of prolong-
ing their vitality. Both these statements are
untrue. Experience has fully proved that certain
principles are necessary to be followed; under
these the results have been good : it is the devia-
tion from them that is the cause of failure.
^X It seems pretty certain that the 'office of the
ascending sap is to nourish and increase the volume
of the whole tree, while, by its passage through,
/ s ) and change while in the leaves, and by its return
to the roots, it promotes the production of fruit.

^mmpj*mm&j*—m—*m

ACTION OP THE SAP. — LOCALITY. 9

i

The sap becomes stored up, and ripened by the
action of light and heat, and in proportion as this
action is retarded or augmented, the tree is either
productive or barren. A certain action commu-
nicated to the sap will develop the whole system
in redundant wood. All this is modified by at-
tendant circumstances, but it is the general rule.
To regulate, distribute, and harmonise all these
functions is the duty of cultivation, and surely
the preservation of the balance between root and
branch, and between fertility and extension, can
but have the effect of increasing the amount of
production, and also by economising the vitality of
the tree, lengthening its life.

The locality chosen for any particular tree is *)
of great importance, and demands much reflection. ^
In this the amateur must submit to be guided ^
by the experience of others, while he carefully (
observes for himself. Before any final decision,
he should make a tour of the gardens in his
neighbourhood. He should attentively note the
varieties which flourish best in the soil and aspect
which correspond with those in his own garden.
The fruits most common in the neighbouring
markets should also be considered, unless they
are of an inferior description. These observations
will not appear trivial to an amateur. Every
one has experienced the value of such things
who has commenced a career of horticulture.
In these cases a reference to the catalogue of a

10 CORDON TRAINING.

respectable nursery is invaluable, and may also
be a great subject of amusement.
j^ One hint more. In selecting the trees, let no
one be influenced by the mere price, for it is of
the greatest importance to have well grown and
healthy trees to begin your experiments upon,
and to avoid discouragement in the outset.

The selection then being made, the amateur
should remember, that the natural tendency of
the sap is to flow upwards and towards the ex-
tremities of the branches, so that without due
care, especially at the commencement, the centre
of the tree, and the lowest branches (in the case
of those on walls) become less vigorously stimu-
, lated, and are thus dwarfed in comparison with
those higher up. This will cause an unequal
distribution of fertility, and quickly destroy all
the harmony and symmetry of the tree. The
leaves, according to their number and healthy
state, draw up and attract the sap. Therefore
a branch, once enfeebled, has by its very want of
pouter, an increased chance of decay. We must,
therefore, endeavour to avoid this feebleness.

Again, by this irregular distribution of strength,
the whole tree is disturbed, and eventually ruined.
For when in this diseased condition it receives
any shock, as by an attack of blight (perhaps by
two or three successive attacks) ; by injury to its
roots from any cause ; by any of its branches
breaking in a gale of wind ; the first irregularity

FUNCTION OF LEAVES. 11

of form becomes so considerably augmented, that
few trees are able to remedy this defect by a
spontaneous effort of nature, and the expectations
of years become frustrated in a single season.

When, then, we perceive a commencement of V
this want of due vigour in any branch, we mustC.
hasten to remedy it. There are various ways of
obtaining this object, but I refrain at present'
from mentioning many of them. One excellent
plan is to allow a larger number of leaves on a
weak branch than on a strong one. The reason <
for this has been stated above. The leaves are
the lungs of the tree, and attract and modify
the sap, which is little altered till it reaches the
leaves. When it does reach them, it ceases to be
sap, properly so called ;. it becomes the "proper yq
juice." Discharged into the bark, it is thence ^ A,
carried, by cellular channels, throughout the
tree.

From this "proper juice," that is, converted ^^^
sap, the fruit attracts what it needs to produce \
flavour. The more the tree secretes the better. \
Pruning and training here play a great part./
By removing a portion of the leaves on a vigorous f
branch (cutting them in two is the best), and by ) &b
allowing as many as possible on a weak branch, )
we equalise both. Removal of some of the 1
leaves produces flavour in the fruit. But we )
speak here, chiefly, of the growth of the tree,
and its regulation.

**1

12 CORDON TRAINING.

^3» Another method of strengthening a weak
branch is to untie it from the wall, and allow it
to swing loosely in the free play of sun and air
on all its sides,— ^-one, at least, of which would
otherwise receive nothing. Of course, then, to
tie down a branch to the tree has a contrary
effect, and the more we approach the horizontal
position, not to speak of the extreme method of
bending it downwards altogether, the more the
branch is checked in its development outwards.
So, if it is desired to lengthen a branch, it must
/ (be directed upwards ; and a branch tied, for a
,'• season, vertically, and exposed at the same time,
( in wall trees, to the free action of light and air,
will grow much more rapidly than another tied
to the wall, and carried into a horizontal line.
This is a useful maxim to remember, because it
may be so readily applied in nearly every case that
can occur.

^J> If we wish to give a temporary check to a too
vigorous branch, we must diminish the number
of leaf-buds on it, and allow a rather too abun-
dant crop of fruit on the fruit-buds, while, at
the same^time, the weaker side should be raised
vertically. and aaot allowed to bear at all. Of
course the tree will not look so pretty in this
way for the season, until the winter pruning
shall harmonise the whole ; and this is often a
reason for neglecting this very useful plan. By
pinching off the green ends of branches some

TERMINAL BUDS. 13

time before the others, those first reduced in
length are checked in their growth, because they
have not so many leaves from being shorter.

In cases of great necessity, you may even cover
over the leaves of a strong branch with some
light but impervious material, for a week at
a time. It should be no longer, taking care to
observe if the foliage becomes injured or not.
Nevertheless, I do not recommend this method,
which is more practised in France than in
England.

If it be wished to prologgany branch (no matter
its vigour), we must concentrate the whole power
of the sap into one or two buds by cutting down
to them, taking care that these buds are healthy,
and, above all, placed exactly as the new extension
is desired to be.

Terminal buds are always more vigorous than
lateral buds, because the sap is conducted more
directly to them.

To lengthen a branch, always remember to cut .'*"
well down to the bud selected for the new shoot, )
not, however, so near as to weaken it, but near (
enough that nothing useless be left beyond, be- '
cause, during the drying up of that part, the bud v
is checked, and the object is to advance its growth. }
To obtain fruit-buds, on the contrary, every aim k
must be directed to keeping them, for one or two '
years, as the case may require, in a dormant state. ]
To effect this, you must divert the full current of )

«,

14 CORDON TRAINING.

the sap away from them, so that it shall pass
them by, but without completely drying them up,
which would be a great fault. A leaf-bud or two
must, therefore, be suffered to extend beyond
any flower-bud, i.e., one properly so called. The
eap having passed vigorously up the main con-
duits of the tree, and in the leaves having been
converted from sap into te proper juice," must
be so diverted from the flower-buds as only
to nourish their fertility without causing them to
elongate in the form of branches. Nevertheless,
in the case of the peach, should any bud remain
absolutely dormant for two seasons, it will hardly
ever be developed at all.

^ When trees have obtained a certain size, their
ramifications have the effect of diminishing the
rapidity of the circulation of the sap ; and thus it
is that trees of a certain age are more productive
than those which are young : for the sap has so
many irregularly- disposed branches to supply, that
it cannot well stimulate any single part and pass
by the rest.

,A By cutting your leading branches very short

for a number of seasons, as in the case of that

absurd form now happily abandoned — the " pillar"

or " quenouille " — the tree becomes fruitful, it is

true, but at the expense of size, form, and beauty.

( In the case especially of standard trees, by peg-

l ging down any too vigorous branch, it is com-

/ pletely checked, for the reasons stated previously ;

BENDING DOWN BRANCHES. 15

but in this case the lateral shoots, becoming vertical, <*)
have an extreme tendency to grow, and require i
incessant pruning. This rule is applicable to >
young growing trees, chiefly pears and apples ;
but if applied to an older tree, and all the branches
should be thus bent dowrfwards, then as soon as
the tree becomes more fruitful, the branches
should be loosened, and they will retain a sufficient
inclination to obtain the required result. The
ends would otherwise dry up, and the vertical
shoots, absorbing all the sap, would become con-
verted into wood-shoots of great vigour and diffi-
cult to restrain. In some cases the tree would be
exhausted by excess of production.

One maxim more, and this part is ended. By
removing the earth from the principal roots dur-
ing the summer, so as to expose them to the air,
the tree is much checked in its vigour. This
shows the danger of growing crops too near to the
roots, as, independently of the exhaustion of the
soil thus induced, the risk of injury from the spade
and removal of the surface is very great. For this
very reason, transplanting an unfruitful tree often
makes it bear well, when other methods have
failed.

16 CORDON TRAINING.

CHAP. IIL

SEASONS FOR PLANTING AND PRUNING.

/^* The season for planting is a busy, and it must be
( confessed, a somewhat harassing period. It is
/ "dig sine otio." The time which succeeds the
) first rest of the 6ap, that is, the early part of win-
: ter, is the most suitable for the work in hand. If
J neglected, then that period which immediately
\ precedes the first movements of vegetation is the
/ best.

As to young trees in the Orchard-house, anyx.
time during winter will do for them. If they
are ready to bear, of course, the less they are dis-
turbed late in the season the better their chance
of setting their crop will be. But then, these
trees can be bought now ready potted, and thus a
new house may be stocked at any time. If des-
tined to continue in pots, when carefully packed,
no injury is done to them, and if for plantation in
the borders, they are equally ready, summer and
winter, with ordinary care ; and therefore a tree

■PW*MV*WJ*

PLANTING — HOW PEBFORMED. 17

established one or two years in a pot is ready for
any use.

For out-door planting, if not on too large a scale*
trees thus potted are far the safest ; their roots
are more established, and are infinitely more full
♦ of fibres, and the indispensable spongioles are not
cut off in transplanting. This is the rule in the
case of more valuable and delicate trees : pears,
plums, and apples are easily managed. By hav-
ing a portion of your trees in pots, you may be
ready for your House if not already built, and
time will thus be gained. You may house them*
or leave them out of doors near some sunny spot,
protecting the surface of the pots from drenching
rains by a few slates. Some branches placed to
windward, and a mat around them, will preserve
any fruit tree from injury ; or it may so happen
that a friend has a spare corner in his own Orchard-
house, or a slight shed can be run up. All these are
simple means and obvious resources, if the season
for planting should come on. us before we are quite
ready to undertake the whole at one single time.
As to^^uj^oor^planting on a larger scale,
a mild day witE^a gentle sun-heat is the most
favourable time. Never plant the trees on a
level with the surface soil, but let them be raised
up above it in their own little mound, some four (
inches above the surface. By the end of the first /
season the natural subsidence of the ground will
bring them to their proper level. This is very *
c

18 CORDON TRAINING.

important to bear in mind, but is very seldom at-
tended to, although it is ruinous to the tree to
neglect this precaution.
,J^ ff The earth from the bottom of the pit. which
should be ample and large, should be placed in
one side of the hole, and that which came from
the surface on the opposite side. Then when
your tree is planted, the upper soil should be
placed near the roots at the bottom, and the
earth from the lowest part, mixed with some
leaf-mould and sand, will serve well for the top.
Place the tree on a gentle mound in the centre
of the hole, lightly powder the earth over and
between the central roots, but press down rather
firmly the earth over the extremities of the
roots, having first well spread them flatly in
every direction. A stake to which the tree
shall be firmly tied completes the operation, not,
however, forgetting to have the name of the tree
written on a label attached to it. Zinc, or wood
painted, is best for labels. Avoid all stimulating
manures in contact with the tender fibrous roots,
adding only vegetable mould, and calcareous mat-
ter with it. No tree should be planted in damp
situations ; but if this be unavoidable, a drainage
of four or six inches of stones, or oyster shells,
will tend to remedy this.
^ There is some variety in the soils proper to
[ the various kinds of fruit-trees. The p lujP j the
/ cherry, and theapricot, require an argilo-cal-

VARIOUS SOILS. — MULCHING, u y^i

careous soil. The situation should be rathe
moist than dry, and they will do well where"
there is no great depth of soil. It is useful to
remember this ; because light soils, especially if
at all sandy, are not adapted for peaches. These
require a firm and rather unctuous loam, — deep,
but permeable, — and they must have abundance
of calcareous matter. In the case of wall trees,
the borders should not be less than six feet broad,
and should slope gently downwards, and be well
drained. This is indispensable in the case of ( *'.
peaches. These borders should never be cropped.
No early potatoes should ever be allowed to
encroach on the ground devoted to wall trees.
Fork lightly up these borders, removing the (
weeds, but unless the soil be very heavy do not )
dig them up. Mulch the borders in July, but '
never before that month ; because the ground is »
not warmed enough till that period to shade it {
from the sun by mulching: but after that time j
this operation is invaluable, as it checks evapora- !
tion and saves watering. In the late autumns
lightly fork in this mulching, which will then(
be quite friable. You may renew it in the sum- f
mer, as occasion requires; indeed, the proper S
time to nourish the tree is during growing and \
bearing season, and not when it should be at v
rest, — that is, in the winter. In cold localities,
however, mulching in winter has the advantage „
of protecting the surface roots from the frost >
c 2

£r*

20 CORDON TRAINING.

Thejsear also requires a good deep soil, but not
retentive of moisture. Leaf mould (very old
manure), but not near the roots : loam and sand
together form an excellent compost. Moor earth
near rivers must be well drained in heaps, and a
little unslaked lime added to correct it. If the
soil be too heavy in any case, powdered char*
coal, or burnt earth, are the usual palliatives.

The^aggle (which unfortunately is generally
considered fit for any situation) prefers, on the
contrary, a rather drier soil than the pear, and
if in rather a gravelly spot, so much the better.
Canker proceeds from neglect of this, a fertile
source of discussion. The unwholesome sub-soil
supplies vitiated food to the spongioles, and the
sap thus corrupted breaks out at the weakest
portion of the bark. Sometimes, however, the
conjuncture of a sudden excess of pruning is the
cause of this fatal disease, as it is of gum in other
trees. Therefore, in weak trees, especially in
the tender apricot, do not prune all the tree at
one single timfc. On a due attention to the soil
proper for each variety depends, in a very great
i measure, the success of the whole matter. No
expense or care bestowed in this way, nor atten-
tion to these details, can ever be thrown away.
s^ There is no doubt that pruning, during the
summer months, is too much neglected. There
are so many demands upon the precious hours at
this period, that this indispensable act has not

(

INJUDICIOUS PRUNING. 21

tiften its due attention ; then, when the winter
surprises us, we are apt to find a huge, entangled,
overgrown mass to unravel, demanding very
much more labour and skill. This is a vicious
custom with unskilful gardeners, because a severe
use of the knife in the winter is to them the great
resource and panacea for all evils. All their errors,
they think, are thus obliterated until the next
season's wood shall recommence. A tree severely
cut back, and tightly nailed in, looks so very
knowing, and argues bo much forethought. No
matter the age or kind of tree, a smart semi-
circle is described over its unhappy limbs, and
branch after branch disappears "at one draw."
The employer, meanwhile, looks on with amaze-
ment and wonder. The growth, progress, and
periods of repose required by Nature are highly
suggestive to the thoughtful mind. The period
of rest is now come, that of active labour ceases.
All that was necessary to be done should have n ^
been accomplished before the stagg of repose.
Some little supplementary work still remains, for
plants, as well as animated beings, are never ab-
solutely idle ; but the severer discipline applied
to the tree should not be reserved for the winter
pruning. During their stage of growth, super-
abundantvigour is restrained and checked, b eca use
at that eariy^ j»eriQdj^unds are not so difficult (Q
tCLJieal, and the mere growth of the tree will '

soon cause them to disappear. A tree neglected
c 3

)

J

22 CORDON TRAINING.

during the summer will soon show signs of this
forgetfulness. It will then be no proper remedy
to use the pruning knife with energy. It is as
in life : we can only hope with reason to turn
aside the violence of a wrong bias at the outset.
An even balance should be preserved ; no part of
the whole system should run riot while the re-
mainder unfairly languishes. Neither should
j winter pruning ever take place during a frosty
£ -'» ( season, for the knife lacerates the hardened wood
and induces decay. To delay the pruning till
the tree begins to feel the first movements of
spring vegetatiQn is also pernicious, for then the
check is too great.

In the case of the peach, however, a mere

beginner had better delay his pruning until he

can fairly distinguish between a flower bud and a

leaf bud.

, . Should the number of trees be great, the proper

/ plan would be to commence with the apricots,

i then the peaches ; after these the plums, the

J I cherries and the pears, reserving the apples for

1 the last. A simple rule, but not generally

\ known.

It is best to have more than one pruning knife,
for peach pruning demands a sharp pointed
instrument.
v To save time, a pair of strong pruning scissors
is very convenient. With scissors the work is
very rapidly done; there is nevertheless this dis*

^>

PRUNING SCISSORS. 23

advantage in their use, that they must be kept
very sharp, or the buds will be quite torn away.
Besides, it is impossible to cut very near to the
buds, so that at the winter pruning another clean
cut must be made with a sharp knife nearer to
the part selected.

These cuts must always be made " at one
draw " (as gardeners say), for the sake of appear-
ance and that the wounds may heal more rapidly.

24 CORDON TRAINING.

* /

CHAP. IV*

DEFECTS OP SOME METHODS OF FRUIT
CULTURE.

No doubt the climate of our country has many
faults to answer for ; its severe spring frosts are
indefensible ; its vicissitudes are highly reprehen-
sible ; and as to its autumnal gales, which shake
off the hopes of thfe season prior to their complete
maturity, — if that period ever does occur, accord-
ing to a noted French authority, — the least a
patriot can say in their defence, the better for
his truthfulness.

But has the art of Horticulture nothing to
answer for ? It is true we can point to noble
f examples, such as Lindley, Rivers, Thompson,
\ Knight, or Duhamel, Van Mous, and many
/, others; but it is when gardening is practised by
men of moderate incomes that we are astonished
at its mediocre results. The chief reason is, that
the lower class of hired gardeners is often igno-
rant, prejudiced, and traditional in a wonderful
degree. But so widely spread is the love of

■^■^^^^■^p^^

MANAGEMENT OF *HE CENTRE. 25

gardening, that very large sums are yearly spent
even by persons of limited incomes, on their
fruits and flowers. But the results are really
disproportionate. How seldom is a well-kept
garden to be seen* How seldom does the pro-
prietor know the reason of his numerous failures.

This little work is offered therefore in the
simple hope of helping some such person who,
having less leisure, cannot do as I have done,
follow up my own trees, year after year, note*
book in hand. My experience on this account
cannot be valueless to him, and I have therefore
freely given it.

One grand defect which is observable in the
general treatment of fruit trees is, that very little
difference is made in the care bestowed on the
various kinds.

The dormant buds, which are the hopes of
ensuing seasons, are treated on similar principles,
the consequence of which is, that the centre of
the tree is denuded of fruit, and an appearance of
age is, by this means, induced, long before the
tree has reached the period of decadence. As
the sap ascends far more powerfully in the main
channels than in the more distant and feebler,
portions, one would suppose that this would be a
guiding principle in the treatment of the whole
tree. But, instead of this, what do we generally
see ? In a few years, by unskilful pruning, the
whole of the centre of the wall-trees and the

26 CORDON TRAINING.

interior parts of standards, are without fruit. It
now abounds at the extremities of the branches ;
and, year after year, retires further and further
from the centre of all. Large bare spaces are
visible on every tree. Invaluable south walls
are profitless ; and there is no remedy but to cut
back the unhappy tree.

But, independently of the disfigurement of
the garden wall, and the serious loss of time, this
cutting back is an absurd and unnecessary plan.
In the case of the peach, it hardly ever succeeds
at all; especially if done in the winter, as is
generally the case. Any method which should
obviate this precessity must be useful, and, un-
doubtedly €e Cordon training v does this, as will
be shown.

By keeping close to the centre of our work,
instead of wearing out the whole, we refresh and
stimulate incessantly the latent energies of the
tree, because we seek for them in their chief
source, where nature has placed them — the main
stem. On the contrary, it is evident that an
irregular excitation of particular and distant
portions, while the remaining (and far more
important parts) are left languishing and inert,
must end in confusion, inferiority of production,
and diminution of the flavour of fruit. As to the
tree itself; it cannot fail to decay in some place
or other, and be finally condemned as a disfigure-
ment to the garden.

DURATION OP THE PEACH AND PEAB. 27

Another radical defect in fruit culture is the C*^
vicious custom of too rapidly inclining the bear- /
ing branches toward the horizontal line. By J
this plan the lowest stage must inevitably be-
come the shortest and the most feeble, while, by
all the rules of harmony, it should be the longest.
This defect once commenced is fatal and irre-
mediable, and some of the best portions of the
wall and tree axe lost for ever.

Many trees are trained fan-wise, and this, with
proper precautions, is suitable only for strong
growing varieties, and for those which, like the
pear, are of long#duration.

But, on the authority of M. Dubreuil, even\ r^et.
the pear re quires abou t sixteen years .. £ft .Xfiach to (
the top of a n prdmp^y .wall^adn^
git y of a proper l ateral extension. On the same/
authority, it is certain that the life of the peach \
is not valuable after twenty years, and if half of/
that period, at least, be spent in raising it to the
summit, it is evident that it only arrives there
when on the point of diminishing in production.
During the time, therefore, that these trees, and
others also, are reaching to the utmost limits
assigned to them, the valuable wall space is un-
occupied and useless.

This very serious defect has led to the intro-)

.duction of th$ " cordon system/* by which the(

space of time required to cover a given superficies ;

is abridged by two-thirds. As life is too precious j

28 CORDON TRAINING.

to be wasted, and we naturally look for speedy
returns for all the care and money which we
bestow, if this system can really shorten the
period of fructification, without corresponding
disadvantages, it would be very proper to adopt
it in preference to older methods, especially as
it is adapted for all purposes required, and for all
varieties cultivated.

29

CHAP. V.

CORDON TRAINING — ITS ADVANTAGES AND USES.

Cordon training derives its name from its
fanciful resemblance to a cord or chain. A
certain number of leading branches are carried
out, and on them spurs are developed, so that
the branches look somewhat like twisted cables
or chains. It is not an entirely new plan, but
has the advantage of being based on well-known
and valuable methods long in use. In the present)
case its value chiefly consists in its combinations/,
and modifications required by the peculiar cha-{
racter of the climate of England. In the casei
of in-door culture much more novelty was ad-(
missible, because in this instance the dry and/
equable temperature aided powerfully in its suc-\
cess. Objections made to cordon training in the'
open air, which, however, are not based on ex-
perience, being generally made by persons who
have never even seen the trees during one season,
in orchard-houses, fall at once to the ground.

30 CORDON TBAINING.

But for an amateur to take up cordon training
and to endeavour to practise it, irrespective of
the exigencies of our rainy skies, and to expect
results attainable in other dry and sunny locali-
ties, is simply absurd.

I have myself carefully studied the system,
and followed it out on a fair scale for some years,
both in the open air and in the orchard-house.
While, therefore, convinced of its value, I trust
it will not be considered presumptuous in me to
say, that I believe that an important portion of
this peculiar system would prove a total failure
unless it were carried out exactly as described in
these pages. But as it is so simple that any one
can understand its rules, there can be no reason
why mistakes should occur, nor is the manual
labour so great as to prevent even ladies from

!r undertaking it. I offer my suggestions to amateurs
( with a certain confidence, since I have tried and
/ rejected most of the systems which are, at this
\day, considered excellent in France. One form
was quite unsuitable to the extreme dampness of
our climate, which induces a too luxuriant growth
in the autumn ; while the want of proportionate
sun-heat renders it impossible to have well-ripened
wood 9 — and without this, what tree will ever
bear?
Another form, more adapted to meet these
difficulties, was far too complicated in its system
of dis-budding,— which, by the bye, is a plan

SUMMER PINCHING. 31

requiring much caution in its adoption, and
is not very necessary at any time. It is true
this last system produced a fair crop of fruit,
but it required too much attention to make it
generally valuable. Proceeding, therefore, on
a new mode, which arose out of the cordon
system itself, I gradually adopted it, and, after I
two years' trial of this new combination, I do
not hesitate to recommend it as the best which
exists at the present day. A large and important J
portion of this system — the management of the (
spurs and the growths on them — is very similar /
to that recommended by Mr. Rivers, in the ) t^-^
chapter on " Summer Pinching." Some of the '
terms .used in horticulture are so droll as to
excite wonder at their use, but it would cause
confusion to endeavour to introduce any new
ones. But certainly "pinching spurs in the
summer" seems no particular recommendation
in gardening.

. As was said before, cordon training has the Jfc^
immense advantage of being simple. There is
no elaborate tying-in of summer shoots, as old as
Shakspeare : " Tie up those dangling apricocks ;"
indeed few. ties are required even in the winter.
The forerights are preserved, which are of much
value in increasing the amount of fruit. The
spurs are compactly and regularly distributed,
and are thus more easily sheltered from the
weather, and more readily examined and pruned.

32 CORDON TRAINING.

/No long straggling shoots are ever seen. The
' supply of new wood of the proper bearing age,
and the regular distribution of the leaves, en-
sures a succession of crops. The fruit is all
produced close to the main stems. All parts of
the tree have a fair chance. The produce is
doubled, since half of the intervals between the
branches is only required. Twelve inches are
sufficient for the parts where 18 or 24 inches
were formerly required. The trees are as
readily detached from the walls to clean them,
as vines are from the wires, and from their
simple forms no injury can happen to any
\ portion. The trees are only lightly secured to
/ the rods (which are safer, after all, than gal-
vanised wires), and it is easy to clear off cobwebs
and insects from the back of the trees, an ad-
vantage of incalculable value, as the gardener
■ well knows. All these, and others, are the re-
7 suits of cordon training.

/ But one of the chief recommendations of the
\ system is the rapidity with which a high wall is
/ clothed with productive spurs. In four years a
\ wall, twelve to fifteen feet high, can be covered
) with fruit-bearing wood, all disposed in regular,
1 beautiful, and harmonious succession.
,.x This will be obvious by a reference to the
Frontispiece, where the different years are indi-
cated by their progress; and as a tree, planted at
the angles shown, must grow fast, and yet be

VARIOUS CORDONS. 33

fruitful, what can be desired more ? What is
shown in the Frontispiece is a representation of
one kind of Cordon, and that the very best, — <
the " diagonal,"— with three leaders on each tree.
The trees are planted in the ground at thirty-six
inches from their neighbours to right and left,
there being thus twelve inches of interval between d
each leader. In France the single cordon, with
laterals of fourteen inches, succeeds well, but it
would fail in England. The double cordon is.
better adapted ; these two forms clothe a wall with(
amazing rapidity, and if suited for our climate
would supersede all others. The triple cordon
I have never seen but in my own gardens ; with
laterals in the old system it would not advance
fast enough, which is one important condition in
its use. A quadruple cordon would take so
much time to complete as to make it less desir-
able ; it might, however, suit very moist localities
better. With spurs, as now recommended, the
triple cordon unites most of the conditions re-
quired for success. It covers the wall rapidly,
and bears well and regularly : nothing better can
be said in its favour. Its form is also so regu-
larly beautiful, that even casual observers must
be struck with the harmony and grace of the
whole tree. No gentleman likes to have his
valuable walls covered with trees as unproductive
as they are ungainly ; but any one who has seen

34 CORDON TRAINING.

a well-managed cordon on the diagonal plan,]
will not fail to give it the palm as to beauty.
, .^ / By means of light guiding rods the young
wood creeps as straight as a walking stick, up-
wards, and on this depends much of the handsome
appearance of the trees. So that were a wall
of these trees drawn, each of them ascending
with . mathematical regularity, it would not be
exaggerated: a moderate amount of skill and
^ patience would easily effect it. The various
C forms of cordon training remain to be noticed.
/ They are the diagonal, the best suited for a wall ;
J for in-door or out-door culture it should always
n have three leaders. The vertical, useful for trees
/ trained against the pillars of the Orchard-house,
where they bear admirably; they also answer
well if planted in the borders. If for walls in
^ the open air, then the number of leaders should
\ not be less than five, or there would be danger
/ of the trees producing too much wood. The
^ spiral : round wires for trees in pots, or round
the pillars of the orchard-house, where they have
a pretty effect. It will also suit large pear stan-
dards in the open ground, or in the borders of
the house. Lastly, the horizontal — i.e. all fan-
shaped, (palmette of the French,) or laterally
developed trees ; all standard trees in the open
ground or within the house, and planted in the
borders.

35

CHAR VI.

CORDON TRAINING IN PEACH TREES. — THE
DIAGONAL CORDON.

" If any one tree has occupied the attention of
cultivators more than another, it is surely the
peach." So says the editor of the Gardener's
Chronicle ; and so many have done so, that
it may almost be asked if the matter be not
exhausted. . The article from which this is quoted ,.
proceeds to lay down t hree conffitiofl p as T^ces- /
sarv to -imqggfl m pfiftfih JPlltJitf j which is whatv
we are now considering. The first indispensable /
condition for success is, that the soil must be well
drained; and secondly, that the wood must ripen
thoroughly ; and thirdly, that as the wood of the
first and third year produces no fruit, it must be /
looked for only on the wood of the second year. }
I hope to be able to show satisfactorily that these
requisites can best be obtained by cordon train-
ing, combined with attention to other important
particulars.

The peach, like the pear, is a standard of A

D 2

'<N

36 CORDON TRAINING.

perfection among fruit trees ; but each requires a
. widely different treatment. The peach, coming
from a climate tropical in its summer heats, drier
at most seasons than ours, and yet subject to ex-
tremely severe frosts, when transplanted to Eng-
land is placed under very different conditions.
These arise chiefly from the want of sun-heat at
the necessary period ; but above all, from the
excessive moisture of spring and autumn. As
to our frosts, these are not often injurious to the
tree itself, but they affect the blossoms when
setting. Nevertheless, precautions can be used
/ in out-door culture which somewhat obviate this
\ disadvantage ; yet it is difficult to know how to
/ ' ward off the drenching autumnal rains, which
* *V \ ruin all hopes of ripe wood. It is here that cul-
tivation under glass is most valuable.

It is no wonder^ then, if the tree should have
been written about till the very name of peach
becomes odious to readers of horticultural sub-
jects ; and it is not a matter of surprise, if even
the. ancients blundered amusingly when they
wrote about this exotic. Thus we find Columella
making the funniest mistakes; and Pliny (the
Rivers of his day) setting him right, and re-esta-
blishing the fruit into popular favour. Neverthe-
less, even Pliny only knew of five varieties. By
the 16th century some forty kinds were known and
described ; and, of these, the oldest and that most
carefully depicted is the " Lucca peach," which is

I

PEACH STATISTICS. 37

supposed, on good grounds, to be the " Late \
Admirable" of .the present day, and the " P6che \
Royale " of the French. (Duhamel) The " Late )
Admirable" is not the same as "Bourdine"(^hich
ripens later), as others assert But this ionly
shows how little is really known about the/ fruit
common in the middle ages. /

In the tropics the peach succeeds pretty well,
that is, it grows finely ; but there is little fruit on \ $£)
it. Vegetation is too continual for the fruit buds
to form. This is curious enough, as it is just the
case, from excess of humidity, in our climate.
Between the 30th and 43rd degrees of latitude,
the care bestowed on or required by the peach is
almost nothing, and beyond the 50th degree it
declines to bear at all. Thus wrote M. Noi-
sette; an excellent authority, — but, then, he
knew nothing of Orchard-houses. How few
Frenchmen of the present day really believe in
our successful culture of fruit at all, I leave to
Continental travellers to declare. ss They grow,
it is true," said one of the learned men at Angers
to me, " they grow, as my friend (quoting a well-
known name) declared to us as we walked the
streets of London together, but they never ripen."
The eminent cultivator referred to had frequently
visited England, and knows all our best nursery
gardens too. Another, and certainly a clever
authority, residing at Brussels, considers our
system of pear culture as " disastrous," and

D3

38 CORDON TRAINING.

ascribes it to ignorance of common principles ;
the trees round London, though numerous, being
quite ss unproductive. "

The transition from this amusing prejudice
on the part of our Continental friends, to the
opinions of the Chinese respecting peaches, is
not so abrupt as may appear at first sight.* The
ruddy and pointed peaches are considered, in
China, to be symbols of long life. They are in
consequence profusely used as ornaments on
their walls, and even on furniture. Porcelain
peaches are appropri^t&j^r^senjte on the New
Year. The peach has alsoTthe valuable quality
of being an antidote against evil or low spirits ;
but the brown peach, though beautiful, is the
cause of sin and death.
f Probably some allusion is here meant to the
\ widespread tradition of Eve's offence ; more
6' P / especially, as one variety called "Yu" renders
£ the eater thereof immortal. So much for Orien-
tal opinions. With respect to details in peach
training, these have had the share of attention
from many quarters. But before entering into
( them, I must quote Lindley's words respecting
the formation of flower and of leaf-buds ; which
are so explanative, and, I hope, agree so com-
j pletely with what follows, that it will be useful
( to record them here. " Physiologists know that
j whatever tends to cause a rapid diffusion of the
: sap and secretions of any plant, causes also the

THE DIAGONAL CORDON. 39

formation of leaf buds instead of flower buds ; >
while an a ccumula tion of these fluids produces J
flower buds. In a leaf-bud the leaves are highly (
developed, and their axis has a tendency to elongate
as soon as stimulated by heat and light. In a \
flower-bud the leaves are in an imperfect state, /
(which is called calyx, corolla, stamens and pistil) )
and the axis has no tendency to elongate* Hence \
a flower-bud is a contracted branch. It is, there-
fore, easy to be seen that so long as the fluids of v
a tree circulate rapidly, and without interruption,
only leaf-buds (i.e. undeveloped branches) can be
formed. But if the motion of the fluids be Ian- (
guid, and the parts are formed slowly, flower-buds, '
which are contracted by nature, and have no dis- j
position to elongate, only will appear." *s

For these reasons, most sound as they are, the /_..
Diagonal Cordon, which is now to be described, \
appears the best adapted to unite the conditions s
of fertility with due attention to the necessity of
extension. In other words, this Cordon grows \
and bears well. As will be seen, the term " Dia-
gonal " means leaders — one or more, but generally
three — trained against walls at an angle of 65
degrees during the first year, and at an angle of
45 degrees during the succeeding years. The
reason why the trees are first planted at the
angle of 65 degrees, is that otherwise the shoots
on the upper side would grow faster than those
on the lower, and that they would injuriously

D4

40 CORDON TRAINING.

compete (by their vertical position), with the
growth of the leading extremities, the growth of
which it is sought by all means to encourage.

The position of 45 degrees, to which it is
inclined as soon as the leading shoot has obtained
the proper pre-eminence and strength, and is thus
able to defend its rights — the position of 45
degrees is the most favourable to obtain fruit and
£'h J wo °d above all inclinations at which any fruit tree
can be placed. Therefore, as soon as the leader
is strong and vigorous enough, the tree should be
lowered to this angle, and, by means of light
guiding rods, be made to ascend, at this angle, to
the top of the wall. From being tied lightly, at
every two or three inches, to the rod, it must grow
perfectly straight.

The trees are planted at intervals of 36 inches
from stem to stem along the wall, as seen in the
Frontispiece, where they are all at the angle of
45 degrees, even the tree only in the first year ;
but this was unavoidable ; that is, the trees are
laid in at 3 feet from each other only. My own
trees are planted and trained at 30 inches of
interval, but this is too little — 36 inches are
preferable. Each tree, in the Frontispiece, is
represented as having either three leaders fully
grown, or in the case of the tree of the first year,
it has dotted lines indicating the future position
of the other two leaders. In the tree of the
second year, the second leader has ascended half-

WALL OF COBDONS. 41

way up, while the first leader is completed. In
the case of the tree of the third year, the first
and second leaders being completed, the third
leader is now half-way up. The two trees of
the fourth year have all three leaders complete,
and the complementary tree which fills up the
corner is shown as having its leaders fully deve-
loped. The extreme corner is completed as seen
by extra short leaders, and in the first year's
tree the corresponding corner is indicated to be
filled in by an upright leader with short side
branches, so as to cover the whole space. This
filling up of corners cannot be done so well with
trees on the common method.

Of course, in the first year, all the trees, if
planted simultaneously, would all be alike,
having one leader and blank spaces for the two
future ones, and in the second year the whole
wall would look like the tree of that year ; and
so on. But at one glance the different years
can be seen and understood. I must add, that
if the trees shall be planted at 36 inches from
each other, the intervals between the leaders will
of course be 12 inches, *t. e. the shoots on each
leader extend 6 inches either way. Forerights
are also preserved (not represented, to avoid
confusion) ; but this is a very important part of
the system, and adds much to the beauty of the
whole, making each leader like a green cable
having blooming fruit embedded in appropriate

42 CORDON TRAINING.

bowers of leaves; not buried, but visible and
well exposed to the sun's rays.

I do not remember seeing any trees trained
exactly in this fashion, and as to the combination
of culture, under glass, with the great advan-
tages to be gained by this particular Cordon, it
is this which has chiefly induced me to publish
the results at all. By this excellent, but too
little known method, the most splendid crops
can be grown, and it is not too much to anti-
cipate the time when every back wall of an
Orchard-house, or of a forcing Nectarine-house,
will have its Diagonal Cordon on three leaders.
One will not do ; . two are only rather better, but
with three success is certain. More than three
would take too long a period to cover the wall,
by extending the four years necessary with three
leaders, to five or six years, in which case little
time is saved. Neither can a Cordon on other
principles than closely spurring-in be very suc-
cessful. At any rate it is far inferior in every
way and unworthy of competing with the one
now described, especially in the quantity of fruit
obtained.

I can cordially recommend this kind of Cordon
to amateurs, having had the greatest success
with it of any. It will not suit span-roofed
Houses, which have, of course, no back walls.

But lean-to houses are far warmer. Perhaps
a union of the two would be useful. Span-

FORMATION OF DIAGONAL CORDON. 43

roofed houses are handsomer, and, when very
large, extremely beautiful. In this case other
kinds of Cordons are more suitable, such as
vertical, with pyramidal bases, which will be
described presently.

The formation of a Diagonal CoYdon with
three leaders is thus commenced. Straight,
well-grown trees, one year old from the graft,
are selected. These trees are planted in the
open ground in October, November, or Decem-
ber, but the earlier the better, and in the
Orchard-house, at any time during the winter,
except in frosty weather. They are laid at an
angle of 65 degrees against the wall, in either
case at an interval of 36 inches from one
another. One third of the top of each tree
may be removed; but there is no objection to
the whole row being cut to an equal height,
unless in the case of particular trees. A healthy
front bud is chosen, in every case, to cut down
to; therefore when I said equalise them, of
course it is far better to regulate their height
by the bud you cut down to ; because you must
have a healthy leaf-bud, and below it must be
no blank spaces where there can be no shoots.

If blank spaces occur, then reject that tree
or it will cause you trouble ; but if you choose
to retain it, either because of the sort, or be-
cause you fancy it, then cut down well to a
good bud, no matter how high or how low you

44 CORDOK TRAINING.

meet it. It must be in front, because the wound
is thus far less difficult to hide. This is of
great importance in Cordon training. If you
must cut to a side bud, then you have no very
straight stem after all the care bestowed on the
rest. There must be no unhealthy wood near the
leading bud. How often, by neglecting thia
simple rule, has the trouble of years been wasted 1
Cut, sloping upwards at a gentle angle, till you
get to about an eighth of an inch above the bud.
The trees are then well tied to the wall ; the young
laterals are brought forward on either side neatly,
and the back shoots are generally cut in to one or
two buds ; for if you cut them off there will be
no reserve to supply accident. Sharply cut back
these slender laterals to two eyes or buds. At
this stage these are small, therefore be in no hurry
to cut them off. Then the forerights are to be
similarly treated, i.e. cut back to two buds, and
the trees are ready. If the wall has wires or
rails, these must be at 12 inches of interval. Then
a light guiding rod is tied above the end of the
leading branch in order to direct the future young
wood. Prepare and place this at the winter ar-
rangements. Water freely for some weeks. No
wall under 11 or 12 feet high is eligible for
Cordon training. If in the open ground it should
have a good coping of one or two feet to ward off
the drenching rains. If, as was said before, you
do not immediately require the trees, or have not

COLOUR OP WALLS. 45

your wall or house quite ready, then pot the trees
till that period, and no time is lost ; at any rate,
a reserve of some half-dozen should always be
kept thus potted in case of any accident or other-
wise.

Thus, if one of your treesbecome unsightly or
deformed, or refuse to progress, then remove it
without delay, and place one of your potted trees
(the most vigorous) in its place. This the amateur
must particularly attend to in Cordon training.
Trees one year old are cheap, and so are pots, and
there is no excuse for not having a reserve ready
trained on the same system to supply vacant
spaces.

With respect to the colour of walls for Orchard-
houses (lean-to's), white is preferable to black,
though the latter has certain advantages, but
which are most attainable out of doors : 1 mean
with respect to radiation, but white is certainly
preferable for Cordon training, as so much of the
wall is covered with leaves that no burning can
take place. A coat of lime- wash is invaluable on
account of that " rubra cura" — the red spider,
which is the pest of peach-houses, and requires to
be kept down by regular syringing and ventilation.
The white colour adds also very much to the ap-
pearance of a house, and if a dash of rose or pink be
added, the effect is considerably heightened. Then
with pillars of a clear blue, and ruddy gravel
walks between the well-kept borders, the whole

46 GORDON TRAINING.

may be as ornamental as any conservatory ; and
there is no reason why a little gilding should
not be shown on the cornices, &c. especially as the
house should be devoted to chrysanthemums in
the autumn.

To return to the plantation of the row of young
trees on the Diagonal plan. A little watering as
needed is the completion of the first year's work.

In the spring of the ensuing season, the two
eyes or buds to which the laterals have been cut
will generally each produce a shoot. If we call
these two shoots, on which the future work will
be done, the "right and the left shoot,"* and the
original first growth a " spur," it may tend to
simplify the matter. These two shoots are, then,
the " second growth * on these " spurs." As
soon, therefore, as these second growths have
made six leaves — any small leaves at the bases
which have no buds in their axils, do not count —
pinch down to two leaves on the upper side of the
tree, and to three leaves on the lower side. The
reason for this difference is found in the more
vertical position of the upper shoots, and there-
fore in their greater tendency to elongate. As to
the lower-side shoots, they, from their position,
will be only too inclined to become covered with
fruit-buds, and in their case we must look for ob-
taining some leaf-buds also.

To repeat : these second growths (i.e. the right
and left shoots) having reached 6 leaves or 4

GROWTHS ON THE SPURS. 47

inches, must be pinched back — if on the upper
side of the Diagonal leaders, to two leaves, and if
on the lower side thereof, to three leaves. In a
short time each of these leaves left will put forth
another stage of young shoots, springing from the
axils of the leaves. This is the " third growth."
As soon as this " third growth " on either side
has reached three leaves, pinch back all to two
leaves. A "fourth growth" must be closely
pinched in to one leaf, and if anything more grows,
pinch it closely in also. These third and fourth
growths would be bearers of buds, able, in ordi-
nary seasons, to bear the next year, as well as the
buds on the second growth ; but in practice, the
object being to keep the spurs and the growths on
them within six inches, these late growths must be
held in the light of " feeders " to the others, just
as two eyes are left beyond a bunch of grapes to
draw the sap to the fruit. These successive
growths in the summer pinchings may exceed the
six inches by an inch or two in some cases, espe-
cially in forerights, while they may only reach to
five inches in other cases ; nevertheless, the rule is
to keep them, as near as possible, at this extension.
In. the winter pruning they will be shortened in
alternately, as will be described.

At the risk of tedious repetition, I must refer
again to the Frontispiece.

The tree in the right-hand corner (marked 1st
year) will represent the appearance of the whole

48 CORDON TRAINING.

of the row of trees at the end of the first year's
training. This is the second year of plantation.

The tree with its single leader A will have
reached more or less to half-way, or two thirds of
the wall, supposing this to be 12 feet high. A
certain portion of the tree (that of last year to
which it was cut back,) will now appear clothed
with wood. The spurs on either side of the leader
A will each have their two shoots pinched back
successively to, say, 6 inches in all. The foreright
spurs and shoots on them are also to be treated
by pinching them as if they were on the upper
side of the leader ; but they are not shown in
this diagram, to avoid confusion. At the base of
the single leader A, and at 12 inches from the sur-
face, a strong shoot from one of the spurs has been
allowed to extend for 12 inches laterally, so as to
be in readiness to form the second leader B when
required ; but if allowed to extend, and to be
turned up when it reaches the 12 inches
(which it is destined to do), so as to form the
second leader B, then it would injuriously affect
the growth of the first leader A. From this
rule no deviation must be permitted. I have
spoilt too many trees from impatience, not to
warn others against this error. Cut this lateral
back in winter to a healthy bud, and guide it
by a light rod perfectly at right angles to the
leader A. The tree which is now being described
does not show this lateral, because it is in the

WINTER PRUNING. 49

corner, but the second year's tree will show what
here is meant. The dotted lines indicate the
position of all future leaders, and thus E E ex-
plains how (in the case of the corner tree only)
a future vertical leader in the direction E E
will ascend, and future diagonal leaders be de-
veloped from this, the only vertical one, as
marked F F.

Winter Pruning. — Let us suppose thatwhen the
leaves drop oiF from the trees there will appear two
shoots on each spur, each shoot composed of the
. various growths of this season. Now the fruit will
only appear on the wood of the second year. In
this case the fruit buds nearest to the spurs them-
selves are on this wood, and the fruit will appear
at the base of the spurs, and only in some cases
at their top. Of course the trees are very
young to bear, but they will do so in many
cases, and if this occur, then only one or two
peaches must be allowed to remain on each tree.
By the close spurring-in practised during the
summer, and the not having had recourse to the
old and ridiculous method of choosing long weak
shoots for the bearing wood, the buds at the
base of the spurs will generally become fruitful.
All the fruit, if any, will appear on the bearing
wood at the base. The young tender laterals
on the young extremity of the leader, which has
ascended some way upwards, must be pinched
down to two buds previously to this period.

£

50 CORDON TRAINING.

The two shoots on each spur must now be
shortened in. One must be left long for fruit
(if possible), and the other must be cut short to
furnish new wood to bear alternately. The long
shoot must be cut to any triple bud you can find
within the six inches prescribed. If you find no
triple bud on either shoot for bearing, then cut
them both back alike to the two leaf-buds nearest
to the spur. But if, as is generally the case, you
find the triple bud desired, leave this shoot long,
and cut the other to two leaf-buds, to furnish
two new bearing wood shoots for the year after
next. If you find a triple bud to cut down to
in the case of the shorter shoot, this is an ad-
ditional advantage, as it is fruitful, and you have
a double chance of peaches. But the whole
system revolves on these two shoots, which in
time become three or four, — one of them being
left long to bear, and the other being cut short
to succeed it. In this way a succession of fruit-
ful wood is sure to be obtained, while on the
old method, when once a shoot had borne, it was
slightly shortened in, and permitted to bear on
the new growth ; so that in time the fruit was
produced so far from the centre, that a severe
pruning, most injurious to the peach, was needed.
The shoots on the spurs multiply in time, and are
cut back, or left long, as required. Every suc-
cessive pruning must have for its object to keep
the bearing wood close and compact, and allow

SECOND YEAR'S TRAINING. 51

on the long shoots left for fruit just enough of
leaves to nourish the fruit.

Two shoots for each spur are required. If
any spur have not the necessary two shoots
on it, then it is a vast defect, and must be
remedied by pinching back judiciously at first,
and by endeavouring to encourage the single
shoot to become double; of course the nearer
to the spur the better. In this case all our en-
deavours must be directed to obtain the two
shoots, quite irrespective of fruit, and at this
winter's pruning, if there be but that melancholy
single shoot, then vigorously cut in to two leaf-
buds, — not the fruit-buds, — for if you do the
spur is ruined for ever. However, even then
the whole tree is not spoilt, for there are so many
spurs, and so many shoots, that a remedy can
always be found. A practised eye will see the
difference between a fruit and a leaf-bud almost
at once — certainly by midsummer ; while a mere
beginner would be puzzled to decide till the
ensuing spring.

Second Year's Training. — We come now to the
tree in the Frontispiece marked "second year."
The first leader A will rapidly ascend and reach
the top of the wall, and the lateral left to form
the second leader B, having also shot out, is
turned up sharply, when it has reached twelve
inches from its starting place. It will, in the
course of this year, reach to about half-way

E 2

52 CORDON TRAINING.

towards the summit of the wall, as seen. As
soon as the first leader A has reached the top,
pinch off the end; this will strengthen the
second leader. The second leader will be
shortened a little at the winter pruning, as the
case may be, always remembering to cut to a
front bud. The pinching of the various growths
on the two shoots goes on thus this year. That
on the longer shoot must be pinched in more
closely than that on the shorter one, because it
would extend too far otherwise. It may reach
to seven inches without any confusion, and if
a foreright, and in the Orchard-house, it will even
be better so. Thus the new wood on the long
shoot may well be pinched off to one leaf as
soon as three leaves are formed, and the next
time also to one leaf, as soon as two leaves are
formed ; and so on.

But the shoot or shoots shortened to two buds
will require to be allowed to grow by a leaf
more at a time. Thus, as soon as four leaves are
formed, pinch back to two leaves, and afterwards
to one leaf. All this will be readily understood
after a season's practice. Of course those natural
shoots which make their terminal buds — and are
called by the French " rameaux a fruit bouquets,"
because they appear like a small nosegay, — should
not be touched wherever they appear They
will soon be known, and generally spring from
the bases of the spurs. See Fig. 1, of fruit-

Fig. 1.

FRUIT-SPUR ON THE PEACH, SHOWING THE SUCCESSIVE
GROWTHS, AXD ALTERNATE PRUNING.

w

.->"'

/

FIGURE 1 EXPLAINED. 53

spurs on the peach, where it is seen springing
from the base of the spur, and is marked E.
The present winter's pruning of these two shoots
now- requires notice. Taking Figs. 1 and 2 of
peach spurs, — A indicates the original spur; B
the right shoot ; C the left shoot ; D the right
shoot which has developed another one, and E
the natural fruit-spur.

Figure 1. — Here, on the spur A, the right
shoot has grown by successive starts (as seen
by the divisions) upwards. The little elbow
above B is that part of the shoot which was left
beyond the last bud pinched down to, and often
dries up rapidly. Two triple buds appear on
the second growth, which are to be carefully
left. They will be found in Figure 2, as deve-
loped into two new shoots marked there B and D.
But at present the shoot is to be cut back to
them, and failing them, to two leaf-buds for
wood shoots. Never cut, by any means, to single
flower-buds, because there should always be a
leaf-bud at the extremity of every part, no matter
where or of what strength. In a triple bud
the central one is a leaf-bud, and the other two
flower-buds, and thus it unites every necessary
qualification.

The left shoot in Fig. 1 is also seen. The
second growth has, or may not have, its two
triple buds; most likely it will, because that is
the place to look for them, and pinching-in helps:

E 3

54 CORDON TRAINING.

much to this important end. Then, higher up,
appear the third and the fourth growths, the for-
mer having a neat little lateral, which is far more
likely to be fruitful than a powerful shoot. These
latter shoots, called " gourmands" by the French,
were the bane of the old systems, and do what
you would, if on the upper side they always
would come. In vain they were cut back; in
vain they were twisted and pinched off; the least
neglect produced a vigorous shoot, like a leading
branch, just where it should not be. Of course
the sap rushed with tenfold violence into these
enticing corners, and of course the gardener
did not see it, and then, by the winter, the rest
of the branch was languid and feeble, and the
tree spoilt. But in this system all this is ren-
dered nugatory ; there is little or no danger of
this occurring. Instead of this giant, we see a
neat little fruitful shoot, which, crowned with an
appropriate bud, is very like a natural fruit-spur.
Leave these alone, and cut down close to them,
as seen in Fig. 1. The branch is then, with
its short right shoot, ready for wood-bearing or
not, as the case requires, and its long left shoot
cut for fruit, having a chance thereof at the
two triple buds, on the second growth, and ori the
neat little lateral before so commended. As the
nearer wood is the ripest, if the fruit appear on
the triple buds below, so much the better ; at
any rate there are plenty of chances, because

Fig. 2.

FRUIT-SPURS ON THE PEACH. — ALTERNATE PRUNING.
SECOND APPEARANCE.

FIGUEE 2 EXPLAINED. 55

this little lateral, though born, say in August,
will probably be quite ripe — at any rate it will
be in the Orchard-house.

In Fig. 2 we have the same spur A, and on
it the same second growth B and C, only B has
developed into two long shoots, and these have
been successively treated as recommended. In
the winter the new development D is cut back
to two new buds, generally triple, and its fellow
left long for fruit, of which there must be a great
chance somewhere or other. You can hardly
fail now. The left shoot C has borne a peach
or nectarine, where the triangle near C indicates
its place. After bearing it is cut back, so as to
secure new wood.

In succeeding years, by the time the wall is
covered, say in four years, all the leaders should
have their spurs crowded with these long and
short shoots, two, three, and four to each ; and as
I said before, remembering to have a leaf-Jwc? at
every extremity, and to keep half short for wood,
and half long for fruit, how can any one fail to
have fruitful trees ? This is all the care required
for the spurs and growths on them, remember-
ing that if the long shoots in summer, from their
very length, grow to seven or eight inches long,
they have always the corresponding short shoots on
the opposite leaders ; and as these may not extend
beyond some five inches, one will fit into the
other. At any rate it is of no matter, for after

E 4

56 CORDON TRAINING.

this experience a man must be dull indeed who
could not manage to get his wood compact and
short somewhere. There is no danger of not
having superabundant shoots of all kinds, and
you can cut them clean out of the spur when-
ever you like ; besides, they may have grown
into two shoots, as many do, immediately from
the leader itself, and then you have abundance
of room. Let my readers be assured of all
this, and practise it fearlessly : " cut boldly and
fear not." As Mr. Rivers says of potted trees;
" Any one can manage them ; " and I daresay
any lady could manage a Diagonal Cordon
easily and successfully after reading these in-
structions.

As to the getting the third leader to grow, it
is now easily seen ; and when the three leaders
are fully grown, all that is required is to allow
a foot or two of the extremities, as in vines, to
grow upwards, and then to bend them down-
wards gradually, and cut them off in the au-
tumn. This exhausts the superfluous sap, and
keeps the upper shoots fruitful. Nevertheless,
I must beg to say that it is the lower shoots
that are likely to languish first, and there-
fore they must not be too rigorously pinched in,
but rather favoured, and rested from time to
time. The finest fruit will be near the top, which
proves the abundance of the sap and juices at
that part.

PRODUCE OF SOME CORDONS. 57

A Belle Beauce peach in my own Orchard-
house bore thirty- two fine peaches on the leaders
A and B, but of course the top of A was not
very ripe, and half of B was quite youthful. Keine
des Vergers, which bore early in August, had
twenty splendid peaches, all on the lower part of
A, it being in the second year. Galande had
twenty-eight on a similar part, in spite of the
backward season, and the nectarines Early New-
ington and Hardwicke Seedling (a delicious nec-
tarine), were also very fruitful on this leader A.
Malta, Chancellor, Bourdine, and Pucelle de
Malines were magnificent, though very young
trees. I like Malta by far the best : Noisette
calls it his favourite. Leroy, Rivers, and many
others speak highly of it ; and, being not too
vigorous, let me seriously recommend it. It is a
September peach, and the one that hangs so well
on a tree : no mean quality.

Nectarines, however, and clingstones (Pavie
peaches), which come late, and will find their
day of triumph in England before long y are best
suited for the back wall, because they are the
most valuable. So prolific is this plan, that I
would not recommend the mid-season peaches for
it ; you can have them in the pots. A very early
peach, but not the little nutmeg peaches, should
be placed in a warm corner, and trained in this
way. Acton Scott is scarcely good enough.
Early York or Crauford is better, or some of the

58 CORDON TRAINING.

new American varieties, which before long will
be our very best early peaches.

Stanwick nectarines crack, but they have done
tolerably well with me this unlucky year. They
are really splendid, though they generally require
forcing.

I only repeat, to end this chapter : keep to the
wood of the second year ; and as every shoot
which has borne fruit will not again bear, it is
well to cut off the shoot which has given fruit as
soon as it has done so. This is better for the
practised hand to do than for a mere beginner,
and should not be done in the early stages of
cultivation.

59

CHAP. VII.

SPIRAL CORDONS.

The training these is essentially the same
as that of Diagonal cordons, because they also
have an upper or vigorous side, and a lower
or weak side. If planted in the borders of
the Orchard-house, and trained round wires,
they have an admirable appearance. Twelve
inches of interval is also required between
the ascending stems, and not less than two
trees should be planted to train on the same
wires. These Spiral Cordons bear remarkably
well, and for pot culture are unrivalled. The
sun and air have free access to the open centre ;
the leaders are kept down, and the spurs on them,
with due respect to the outrageous verticals, are
easily managed. They should, in the case of
pots, be pinched in more closely, as it is difficult
then to allow a clear twelve inches of interval.
The outgrowing shoots are, of course, not in-
cluded in this difficulty. Wires are best to train
round. When the leaders are fully covered, and
your space well filled in, then lower the leaders,

60 CORDON TRAINING.

and twist them freely round the wires. If in
pots, place them close to the glass, but not so as
to shade others behind them. If for pear trees,
in the open ground, very handsome specimens
may be obtained, and really fruitful, only the
centre must be kept well open. They are very
easy to syringe in the Orchard-house, as access
is easy to the interior parts. I do not think that
trees difficult to fruit would do, as some parts
are rather in the shade. The free-growing
varieties should be selected in preference.

61

CHAP. VIIL

VERTICAL CORDONS.

Select a straight tree, as before, well furnished
with laterals ; remove one third of the top,
and cut in the laterals to two buds. Should
any weakness appear in the lower laterals, cut
down to one half of the whole length, because
the lowest stage must be the longest, and it must
be encouraged. Plant in a pot, or in the open
ground, or border, as before. In the ensuing
summer the two buds on each lateral will develop ;
these must all be pinched as soon as six leaves
long, to three leaves, then to two leaves, and
then to one leaf; but in the lowest stages it is
necessary to allow one leaf more at each pinching,
until that part has a predominance over the rest ;
in other words, until it has a pyramidal form.
Therefore, the lowest spurs all round should be
well encouraged, and if disposed to become fruit-
ful, then left as long as possible — i.e. hardly
pinched at all, and the whole tree kept to the
pyramidal form altogether. If the lowest shoots

62 CORDON TRAINING.

grow freely so much the better; merely pinch them
back, according to their vigour, and if laterals
grow on these, pinch these to two buds each.
The object in view is to obtain a fruitful pyramid
in a vertical position, and the pinching is only
to obtain this ; but as the top grows very freely, it
must also be kept under, and occasionally pinched
back, according to the vigour of the tree. In this
case the amateur will soon know how to proceed.
If the Vertical Cordon, however, be destined
as a reserve for banks in the Diagonal Cordons
(and this must be kept in view), then pinch all
the shoots pretty equally; but if the lower ones
are inclined to become single shoots, then this must
not be allowed to be. Endeavour to have these
reserve trees regularly supplied with spurs, and
two shoots on each; and if a tree obstinately
refuse to come to this shape, it had better be
rejected as time and patience wasted.

The vertical pyramids must not exceed the
diameter of the pot they are to fill (generally a
thirteen-inch pot), at their base.

If you plant the Vertical Cordon against pil-
lars in the Orchard-house, it need not be pyra-
midal of course, and this is another use for
the potted vertical cordons to supply. Against
pillars, with their ends trained up the rafters or
sideways, my own trees are splendid, and they
are an amusing variety, because you may develop a
second stem before and another behind each pillar,

VERTICAL CORDONS. 63

and the fruit on the part near the glass will be
very fine. These trees will require removal,
probably annually, as they grow, to check undue
luxuriance. A few ties are all that is required,
and they are easy to syringe and take care
of in every way. No strong growing variety
should be planted either in pots or against pillars
in the borders. Out of doors Vertical Cordons
require very high walls ; they are then useful,
bijt unless they have a large number of upright
leaders they are apt to grow too freely ; and for
peaches, there is really no necessity for adopting
this form in out-door culture.

64 CORDON TRAINING,

CHAP. IX.

HORIZONTAL CORDONS.

•

Under this head, for practical purposes in Cordon
training, may be ranged all fan-shaped or " pal-
mette " trees on walls ; all standard out of doors ;
and bush trees in pots. Every one knows how
to commence the training of these, — how twelve
inches are to be left above the soil, and how fan-
shaped trees are to be thence carried out. In the
case of wall trees, light rods should always guide
the young branches, and these should never be
brought toward the horizontal line, till well esta-
blished, otherwise, adieu to the symmetry of the
tree, — the lowest stage being too short. But if
these trees are trained horizontally, then let the
branches be depressed year by year from an angle
of 75 to 65 degrees, then 45, and lastly to about
30 degrees. Any approach to the perfect hori-
zontal line is useless, except in the case of two
small branches developed from the lowest stage
to fill up the lower corners. The Cordon system
is equally applicable here, — i.e. that part of it

. OLD METHOD. 65

which relates to the management of the spurs
and shoots.

As we are now treating of peach trees, of
course the upper shoots must be trained like
those on the upper sides of the Diagonal leaders,
and the lower shoots like those on the lower side
of these leaders. The branches to be shortened
by one-third yearly, and when older, by one-
fourth, and finally by one-sixth of their length ;
the main stem encouraged fairly to grow. An
interval of twelve inches is sufficient between,
each stage of branches, while, in old methods,
eighteen or twenty were needed for the enormous
shoots to bear their solitary peach. Of course
the crop in fruit ought to be doubled, and would
be but for fear of sacrificing the tree.

But how long time it takes to reach the top of
a ten or twelve-foot wall we all know well enough,
and when there, the tree is beginning to decay.
A system valueless for such splendid fruit For
pear trees, which last longer, it will do well
enough, but the Diagonal Cordon is far superior,
even for peaches under the glass of a forcing
peach-house. If then it be desired to reduce
peach trees, trained on some queer old method,
to the newer plans, the shoots must be pinched
in, and cut off by degrees till the spur with two
shoots thereon is reached. Then some strong
shoots should be selected to fill up the blanks
between the branches, and. laid in to the wall,

F

66 CORDON TRAINING.

being very slightly shortened in the winter*
Their laterals should be pinched in to two buds,
and, with care, the tree will become reorganised
in two seasons, without injuring the crop ; because
that shoot which is to bear the fruit can be left to
bear it, being only pinched off at two leaves
beyond the fruit, and cut back behind the fruit
immediately after it is gathered. The other non-
bearing shoots may be closely pinched in and cut
back, as required. There is not very much diffi-
culty in doing this. After a severe blight this
July, I cut off the miserable ends, and refreshed
the trees, and brought them well into shape.

As to the treatment of peaches and nectarines
in pots, it is easy enough. Treat the spurs and
shoots like the Diagonal, only rather more closely
pinched in, as there is less room. On the bush tree
(like a currant bush), all the branches, say eight or
nine, are full of these spurs, and the treatment of
them is easy. At the lowest parts the short
natural fruit-shoots generally obviate any trouble
in this way, which is convenient, because there
the branches are, necessarily, near to each other.
Of course the upper spurs of bush trees require
closer pinching-in than the spurs on the lower
sides, and two shoots on each spur are required.

67

CHAP. X.

CORDON TRAINING IN APEICOT TREES,

The apricot is a magnificent fruit. It probably
came from America. Thence it passed into Greece
and Italy, and so on to our ungenial climate, and
is pretty generally cultivated, capricious as it is in
bearing. The apricot does not force very well ; it
dislikes a confined atmosphere, and succeeds best
in breezy situations, with abundance of sun. In-
doors it requires great attention in the blooming
season, and careful watering at all times, or it ia
liable, either from this cause or from deficient
ventilation, to drop its fruit after setting. De
Jonghe considers this to arise from not being
grown on its own stock, and this may be the case.
The more sun and air apricots have the darker
will the fruit be, and the better the flavour. Of
all in cultivation, I find the Kaisha the best.
Some new varieties, as yet unknown, from Lom-
bardy, promise extremely well.

Diagonal Cordon training is well adapted to
produce fine fruit on the apricot. The triple sys-

F 2

68 CORDON .TRAINING.

tem, with the same intervals between the leaders,
is the best suited for this tree. If grown out of
doors on espaliers, thick straw palliasses behind
the espaliers are necessary until the fruit be half
grown, and then removed to give free circulation.
But at best, in England, the tree bears only at
long intervals. The spring frosts ruin the tender
blossoms. It is far best cultivated under glass,
except a few hardy varieties, — the names of which
are given in the list of trees at the end, — which
are useful for preserves, but not very enticing in
flavour.

The shoots on the leaders should be pinched to
four inches as soon as they are six inches in
length, and the successive growths on them
pinched to one inch more, as soon as they become
two inches long. In winter pruning cut back in
order to develop the buds at the base of each
shoot, and as these are numerous, and more easily
developed than in the case of the peach, there is
no difficulty whatever in replacing a shoot as
soon as worn out, or unsightly from pruning.
Tjie appearance of an apricot shoot at the first
winter pruning is like that at Fig. 3. In this
figure the shoot is shortened in by one-third ; the
fruit-buds are seen about half-way up the sides,
and the latent butfs appear at the bases.

The second growths in Fig. 4, which will
eventually grow out from these buds, having the
appearance as seen in this last figure, must be

Fig. 3.

FORMATION OF FRUIT-SPUES ON THE APRICOT.
FIRST WINTER'S PRUNING.

^ --^y

PRUNING OP APRICOTS. 69

left to bear if on the middle of the spur, but the
one or two near the base will be full of leaf-
buds, and must be shortened to two buds to form
a succession of shoots. About one-third of the
whole shoot is removed at this winter pruning ;
and the whole length is easily kept within the
six inches allowed, because these short laterals
will form much of the bearing wood. Remember,
however, to shorten some of these, in order to
have fruit as near the base as possible.

In Fig. 4, the next winter pruning would
be just over the two lowest laterals at A, as the
upper shoot would then have become much elon-
gated, and be fruitful. This has in its turn to
be shortened, while the lower would have pushed
out in one or two places, and so on. One- long
shoot and one short one, as in the peach, is also
an excellent plan, but is not shown here to avoid
confusion. Do not prune the apricot all at once,
as it is a tree liable to gum, and take care the
ties are not growing into the bark for the same
reason, nor induce plethoric growth by over-feed-
ing the tree.

Horizontal trees are easily grown in this way.
Develop two very long branches, stretching at an
angle of forty-five degrees on either side. When
fully grown, lower them to the horizontal posi-
tion, and the shoots already allowed to extend
from the upper sides only, being now vertical,
will, in one season more, ascend to a great height ;
r 3

70 CORDON TRAINING.

they will make, at the same time, laterals, which
must be pinched in rather closely at first, Pyra^
midal apricots inpots look very pretty. They are
easily grown by continual close summer pinching-
in to five or six leaves. The leader, if kept under
by several shortenings in, will produce fresh
shoots along it. These pyramidal apricots are
much recommended by the great authority of
Mr, Rivers, and they certainly can be placed
very near to each other, say about two feet. If
planted in borders they require annual lifting
and replanting, and, of course, not so much water,
'Apricot trees, trained spirally as half standards,"
are very pretty and prolific. In some cases this
is necessary, in order to get the fruit near the
glass*

Fig. 4.

FORMATION OF FRUIT-SPURS ON THE APRICOT.
SECOND WINTER'S PRUNING.

:^'-*rP\

71

CHAP. XL

CORDON TRAINING IN PLUMS AND CHERRT
TREES.

There were plums in the gardens of Charle-
magne. The Reine Claude recalls the memory
of the first wife of Francis I. ; while the Da-
mascus plum came back to Europe among the
Crusaders' baggage. Since these periods this
pleasant fruit has daily increased in favour.
Nevertheless, it is not cultivated so much as it
deserves to be. Plums are in season for nearly
five months, and are invaluable for kitchen use.

Everyone knows this ; but that which every-
one does not know is the amazing variety which
exists in the present day, and among them are
some extremely valuable plums. Amongst them
are the Early Prolific (Rivers), the Jefferson,
now, however, becoming appreciated, and rival-
ling the greengage (Reine Claude of the French),
besides a number of others to be found in the
lists of the day. These plums can be kept for
some time in muslin bags, and they thus become
shrivelled, but luscious in flavour. It is easy,
f 4 •

2 CORDON TRAINING.

therefore, to have plums for about five months
on the table in some form or other.

As to cultivation in Orchard-houses they do
admirably, but had better be placed out of doors
about June or July, so as to improve their
flavour, except in cold climates far north. I
recommend the Early Prolific as far superior to
the Early Yellow, a French sort, which is early,
but a shy bearer ; then the Gages ; then Jeffer-
son; Heine Claude de Bavay, a standard of per-
fection ; the Quetche ; Coe's Late Bed ; and
Huling's Superb, for Orchard-houses. But every
one can choose, and hardly go wrong, where the
variety is so very great and really good.

The plum, however, is a coarse feeder, and apt
to be very vigorous — too vigorous for fruitful pur-
poses. It must, therefore, be kept in hand. The
choice, and not too luxuriant sorts, will suit the
Diagonal Cordon.; while, for the Horizontal,
where there ia plenty of room for lateral expan-
sion, select the more vigorous kinds. The plum,
contrary to the apricot, improves in flavour from
a wall. The treatment of the leaders is as
directed for the others, with intervals of twelve
inches between them in every case.

In Fig, 5 is seen the young shoot of the
plum at the winter's pruning. The top must be
shortened in, as in the apricot, by about one-
third, keeping it to four inches long. The pinch-
ing-iu during the summer is as in the apricot

Fig. 5.

FORMATION OF SPUES ON THE PLUM.
FIBST WINTER'S PRUNING.

PRUNING OP PLUMS. 73

As soon as six inches long pinch back to four ;
the next growth (as seen in Fig. 5) pinch to one
inch. Pinch the others closely in, as also seen. In
the first winter cut back to four inches. During
the ensuing summer endeavour to suppress, on the
shoot, the too vigorous triple buds, selecting the
feeble buds for the work in hand. Never neglect
these plum spurs, or they will develop into rank
luxuriance, and become unfruitful for several
seasons.

If, therefore, a tree be perceived with luxuriant
growth on it everywhere, and the extremities
waving defiantly in the breeze to the height of
some three feet over the wall, which is not unusual,
then look for no fruit on any of those parts for
two years. In fact, they must be cut out, for
the spur would become fearfully thick at the base,
and compete with the branches for the sap. Then,
if cut out, how very trying to the tree is this ex-
cision, and what ugly places appear on the
branches. Keep, then, those vigorous triple buds
suppressed, and work with the weak ones.

Rightly managed, the spur will in a season or
two look like that at Fig. 6. This shoot will be
shortened to within six inches, i.e. the spur will
be four in length, and the laterals about two more.
In Fig. 6 this is seen. The little lateral at the
top is, say, two inches beyond its parent, and has
some neat flower-buds on it. Merely shorten it
so as to keep it compact. The next lateral is

74 CORDON TRAINING,

treated on the same principles, while that below
on the left hand is shortened in order to become a
future spur, because the buds at that part are natur-
ally leaf-buds, and inclined to extend if cut back
to, according to the principles laid down in the be-
ginning, of concentrating the sap into one or two
buds. On the other side, the right hand, is seen
a group of buds which will be fruitful the next
season, and must not be touched, just as in the
case of the peach. After the laterals at the top
have borne, and the shoot, cut back near the base,
has made some other ramifications, then will be
time to remove the top and its laterals at A, to
let these new shoots take their place, leaving the
lowest group of buds alone. Others will also
spring up, possibly nearer the base, and so on.
There is no difficulty whatever, and it is very
«asy to keep these spurs within five inches, or even
four. Of course, if for a Diagonal Cordon plant,
as also apricots, it should be at 36 inches from
stem to stem, as in peaches. Above all, avoid all
ill-drained soils.

THE CHERRY,

This delicious little fruit, probably the gift of
Lucullus to the Italians, requires very free ven-
tilation if kept under glass, and only a few varie-
ties are worthy of this care, except in places
where birds abound. The very earliest is the
Belle d'Orleans, and, as such, is suitable for

Fig. 6.

FORMATION OF FRUITFUL SPURS ON THE PLUM.
SECOND WINTER'S PRUNING.

>

PRUNING OF CHERRIES. 75

Orchard-houses. The Duke tribe are splendid,
and the New Royal is highly spoken of, I have
not seen it. Some late kinds are useful to keep,
if there is space for them in the House, and they
can be kept in muslin bags. The treatment of
the spurs is like plums, and very easy, because
the groups of round flower-buds soon form at the
base, and by pinching freely in can be kept fruit*
ful. It is a capital plan to break the shoots instead
of cutting them ; and as cherry shoots grow very
freely, they must not be overlooked: if so,
then it is best to break them partially through,
and let the broken ends shrivel up before cutting
them off. If grown as bushes in the House, spur
them in more closely, and shorten the branches
freely. A damp situation is quite unsuitable for
a good cherry tree, and they require calcareous
matter in the soil. As to Morello cherries, it is
a waste of time and labour to grow them on north
walls — better leave them to the birds ; while if
placed in a fair position, this sort will rival many
of the others.

I find cherries do remarkably well as Diagonal
Cordons, and they do not, as I feared, grow too
strongly to be treated in this way.

I have a high south wall of these cherries inter-
mingled with good plums, and they look very
promising, all on the Diagonal plan. Some of
my best are the Duchess of Palluau, a new and
splendid variety, as a fan- shaped Cordon, and an

76 CORDON TRAINING.

Early Black, extremely well grown, because the
branches, with the addition of a guiding rod, will
grow as straight as pipe sticks, and look magni-
ficent. Pyramidal bushes in pots are very hand-
some. As soon as four leaves appear on the
shoots, pinch in to three, and favour the develop-
ment of the base, but not so as to exceed the
diameter of the pot.

77

CHAP. XII.

CORDON TRAINING IN PEAR TREES.

This most valuable fruit is a general favourite,
and requires a somewhat peculiar treatment, be-
cause it differs from the preceding, especially from
the peach, in this important particular, that as
soon as a fruitful spur is formed, there is no neces-
sity to renew it, — it will last as long as the tree,
with due care. No alternation of bearing wood is
here needed, as in the peach, and therefore it is
the basis of a quite different treatment, which is
also applicable to the apple.

The pear, however, resembles the peach and
nectarine in this respect : that it is equally suited
for the various forms of Cordon training, and
thrives best on the Diagonal plan. In fact there
is really no other way of managing it, and the
forms in use are based on the same principles,
only misunderstood ; and this is the reason that
pear trees bear well in many localities, although
our continental neighbours will not believe it.
The pear so naturally follows the system described

78 COEDON T&AINING.

here, that it leads the primer into it, do what he
will '

Many objections, too, having little real force in
the case of the peach, have none whatever in the
case of the pear.

It is a curious fact, that though the pear is con-
fessedly a most valuable fruit, and one so generally
cultivated, its real history is the least clearly
ascertained. There is a quaint tradition that the
Sabines planted the Rousselet pear, on what oc-
casion is not said. The loss of their wives an J
daughters would hardly be a suitable time for
pear planting, unless it was intended to console
lost fair ones by reminiscences of home, and
" perry ; " for this ancient beverage is clearly al-
luded to by Pliny, who calls it "excellent."
From the Sabines we ascend through the dark
ages, unillumined by horticulture, to that period
when St^ Martin, the good bishop of Tours, had
the honour of having a pear named the " Bon
Chretien," as a reward for his virtues. This is
about all that is really known about the history
of this fruit.

The pear accommodates itself to almost any
shape, and thus to describe and to practise Cor-
don training is equally simple. * Choose, for a
Diagonal Cordon, young and straight trees, of
equal vigour, one year old from the graft, and, in
November or later, lay them in against the wall,
just as in peaches, at the same intervals, — and

Fig. 7.

FORMATION OF FRUITFUL SPURS ON THE PEAR.
C03IMENCEMEN T.

DIAGONAL CORDON, PEARS. 79

also, the fir'at year, at 60 or 70 degrees of inclina-
tion. But do not, as in the case of peaches, cut
off the laterals to two buds at planting, as the
pear requires all its foliage for the first year.
Merely take off one quarter of the extremities of
the laterals. During the ensuing summer en-
courage the growth of the leader, and pinch in
a little of the new wood on the laterals to equalise
their vigour. In October cut these laterals in to
two buds, and reduce the length of the leader by
one-third, above a healthy front bud.

The next summer, these two buds, on each
lateral, or spur now, will develope themselves.
As soon as these new shoots have reached six
inches in length, pinch them back to four inches,
or about eight or nine leaves. The next growths
pinch back to one inch more, and so on. Any
shprt shoots near the base which spring out, or
any that make their terminal buds under four
inches in length, must not be touched, as they are
becoming fruitful of themselves from being near
the leaders, which shows how natural this system
is. Pinch so as to leave as much of wood above
the last bud left as you can, because this exhausts
the sap, in drying it up, and the buds below have
a greater chance of being left dormant, that is,
not "stimulated to elongate," as Lindley says.
The young shoots must not be allowed to grow
till they are, say, ten inches long, instead of six
inches. If they have been thus unwisely ne-

80 CORDON TRAINING.

glected, then it is too late to pinch in. If you
did, some of the buds at the end would break out
into short laterals, just what is undesirable. If,
however, they have reached to ten or twelve
inches unperceived, then bend them backwards,
and twist them into a knot. This checks further
growth, and they can be cut back in the winter.
If they are very vigorous shoots, from the tree
being of a powerfully growing kind, or from the
shoots themselves being in a vertical (a most
dangerous) position, then the evil is much greater.
You must partially break them through, about
half way, and in addition pinch off the ends of
the rampant shoots, and let them hang thus, and
shrivel up, till the winter pruning ; and even
then, probably, a season will be lost before fruit
appears at that spot In the case of Diagonal
Cordon training against walls, all forerights must
also be preserved. The leader will soon reach eight
or ten feet, and can, in the winter pruning, be
lowered to 45 degrees, there to remain in future.
As in peaches, a strong lateral shoot having been
reserved to form the second leader, which is also,
of course, twelve inches distant, it will be
shortehed-in a little, and so ready to be bent
upwards as the second leader next summer. In
fact, the principles for forming a Diagonal Cor-
don, with triple leaders, are similar to those in
the peach, with the marked exception of the
treatment of the spurs. In the winter pruning

Fig. 8.

FORMATION OF FRUITFUL SPURS ON THE PEAR.
COMPLETION.

SPUBS ON THE PEAR. 81

of these spurs, and the two shoots on each, which
haying been several times pinched in, look like
Fig. 7, they must now be broken, not cut at
four inches. The original spurs add an inch or
so to the total length, but it will always be easy
to keep the shoots and spurs under six inches.
Some of the shoots may have less than the three
buds shown, which is of no consequence, for one
fruitful bud is enough on each shqpt. At the
completion of the pruning (see Fig. 8), when in
winter, the ends are finally to be cut off, — not bro-
ken now, as in Fig. 7, where the object is different.
When the ends are finally cut off, as seen, then
nothing remains to be done, for the buds will
have that appearance of protuberance and round-
ness that they can no longer be mistaken. They
are to remain, therefore, on the shoots, one, two,
or three, but never more.

The three leaders will shortly be completed,
and the wall look remarkably well. An immense
saving of time is gained in this way. There are
other irregular forms to be met with among the
spurs, but they cannot be entered into in so brief
a work as this is. I will therefore only add, that as
soon as a pear has been produced on a shoot, cut
off the pulpy part to which it held ; but only cut
off the extremity, otherwise the latent buds, for
other seasons, will be destroyed.

82 CORDON TRAINING,

CHAP. XIIL

HORIZONTAL, VERTICAL, AND SPIRAL CORDONS
# IN PEAR TREES.

In all of these, the spurs are managed exactly as
before described. The Vertical Cordon may
have the shape described in the Miniature Fruit
Garden, page 17 ; i. e. it may have five leaders
trained upwards. Trees on this mode bear very
well. It is recommended by Mr. Rivers. The
distances and spurs may be as described in the
Diagonal Cordon. A great variety of fruits is
obtainable in this way, — no small advantage.

Spiral cordons are treated in the same way as
to spurs and distances. Three trees together may
thus be grown (each on a single Cordon), if so
wished, because the length of the spiral neutralises
the otherwise too great growth. Or one tree
with three leaders may be trained thus. Most
handsome and prolific trees they will be, and
very amusing to watch. They are also very
suitable for small gardens, as standards. Indeed,
there is no better form in this case.

Standard pear trees require some peculiar vari-

PRUNING OF PEAR TREES.

ations in their treatment. The shoots which areT
nearest to the main stem, and on the branches,
will be generally weak, and should not be inter-
fered with, as they are almost sure to become
fruitful in time. The next on the branch, higher
up, if under four inches in length, should also
not be interfered with ; but those on the highest
portions of the branches will always grow freely,
because the sap flows thither vigorously.

That mode, which is the same in principle, of
bending the branches towards each other, is also
a good way of checking a vigorous tree ; but
with a weak-growing tree it is useless. More-
over, the ends of the branches thus bent should
be let loose in time, or they will dry up, and the
vertical spurs must be closely watched.

Horizontal, or fan-shaped pear trees are trained
on these same principles. The lowest stage of
branches must not be lowered too soon, as before
said.

These must be pinched to four buds, and the
further growths each to. one bud more. In the
winter they must be broken at three buds. The
very strong shoots should be only partially broken
through, instead of pinching them off, and broken
off quite at the winter pruning. The horizontal
shoots are more fruit-bearing than the vertical.
These last are annoying, and grow fast ; of course
there are no spurs with two shoots on them, as
in wall cordons, but each spur is a single one.
G 2

84 CORDON TRAINING,

The maximum of inclination of any branch
from the main stem is seventy degrees. As the
tree grows, shorten the leaders each winter, and
the leading side branches by one-third, then by
one-fourth, and finally, by one-sixth of their
length ; so that the tree should grow in a pyra-
midal form, and the lower stages be always longer
than those above them. This golden rule is too
often neglected ; but the tree should not be al-
lowed to become pillar-like by letting the leaders
be too long, or by dwarfing the lowest stage of
branches.

The following brief notes on training Pyramid
standards were made by me at Angers : —

1st year of planting. Plant in November, and
trim off one quarter of the side branches only.

2nd year of planting, 1st of training. Leave
twelve inches of stem ; select six buds for branches
and one for a leader. Cut the branches close in
to the stem, but not too near. The tree now
looks like a walking-stick.

3rd year of plantation, 2nd of training. The
first stage of six branches will develop itself,
and allowing an interval of twelve inches, six
more buds for the second stage of branches must
be chosen, and one to continue the leader. Incise
semicircularly over the three lowest eyes to
check the sap, and develope them. Pinch in, and
break in winter the laterals on the first or lowest
stage of branches, now pretty long ; keep them
much longer than the second stage,

STANDARD PEAR TREES. 85

4th year of plantation, 3rd of training. Allow
twelve inches more of interval for a third stage.
The 2nd stage will now progress ; continue the
leader vigorously upwards. Pinch laterals on
the 1st and 2nd stage to four buds, and break in
winter to three buds. One half of the new wood
on lowest stage must now be cut off.

5th year of plantation, 4th of training. An-
other interval; another stage. One-sixth only
of the new wood on lowest stage should now be
cut off. Regulate the upper stages from this
one, and, tapering upwards, ascend to thirty feet
by six feet at the base. Manure no deeper than
three inches, — Le. old litter lightly forked in, —
and do not disturb the upper soil more than is
needed for weeding, &c. Mulch in July after
the ground has become heated, but never before. l
Graft pears in August.

As to apples, the treatment is similar to
that recommended for pears. Bushes are the
best form, with branches connected with their
neighbours. These bushes should be at intervals
of four feet.

G 3

86 CORDON TRAINING,

CHAP. XIV.

REMARKS ON TREES IN POTS.

The Cordon system, in its various forms, is
admirably adapted for potted trees.* My own
trees in pots have succeeded admirably, and
there really seems no other way of treating
them. The only real difficulty I have ever
experienced in Orchard-house culture, has been
to keep away the red spider. The green aphis,
when neglected in the spring, has sometimes
destroyed the fruit of whole trees, with the ends
of the young shoots. But as this did not form
a part of the Cordon system, it produced confu-
sion in every part. But there is a remedy.
The green fly is easily destroyed by mixing two
ounces of tobacco in a quart of boiling water,
and when cool, gently brushing the leaves vp-
wards with a soft brush, dipped in the infusion.
The blue aphis on the plum, and the dreadful
black on the cherry, are to be similarly welcomed.

* See pages 54, 55, and 56, Orchard-House ; by Mr. Rivers.

THE TREATMENT OF INSECTS. 87

The brown aphis feeds on the young shoots of
peaches in early winter, and must be dealt with
in like manner. But all these fade into insigni-
ficance when compared to the pest of the house*
the Bed Spider* This dangerous foe requires
early attention. A small magnifying glass will
discover it, like a grain of red sand, slowly walk-
ing over the under side of the leaves. But, after
& little sad practice, one glance at the yellow
spots on the upper surface of the leaf is enough.
This disaster arises generally from confined and
heated air, and insufficient syringing. Indeed
I found that near the ventilators, — I mean those
at the top, where the air is rarified by its ascent,
*— and at the very lowest parts of the stems,
where it was difficult to apply the syringe, and
behind even a slight pillar, three inches in
thickness, which screened a few leaves from the
shower of water, — in these three places alone, did
the red spider first come, and was so rigidly
syringed down that he made little further pro-
gress. But the Gishurst compound is an excel-
lent m cure, and not dear to purchase, say two
ounces per gallon of rain water. Syringe the
afflicted parts well ; or I should say, under them,
because it is often by syringing above the leaves
in a graceful manner that the only efficient way
of watering the under portions, where the insects
are, is neglected. "With these precautions, and
avoiding this sprinkling when the sun is on the

Q 4

88 CORDON TRAINING.

leaves, (so as not to burn them into holes,) the
amateur may be at peace.

I always followed Mr. Rivers's directions in
planting pretty closely, and wish now to add, that
it is of much importance to pot early, even just as
the leaves are falling, because the trees are less
checked. In October and November, then, let
the bush or Pyramid trees, &c. be potted very
firmly with plenty of drainage and calcareous
matter, good loam and very old manure. The
whole should be firmly beaten into the pots, and
some loose manure suffered to lie on the sur-
face. Then give a good watering or two, and
let them rest without water, unless the roots
shrivel during the winter months. The Orchard-
house is then supposed to be gay with Chry-
santhemums for which it is extremely well
adapted. Range the trees neatly side by side
at the lower end of the house, and by elevating
a row or two of the flowers, they may hardly be
seen. Ventilate in fine weather, but shut up in
frosty and windy days. As to the trees which
have borne during the past year, the amateur
will know how to manage them; that is, the
roots which have penetrated through the five
holes — the best number — at the bottom of each
pot, must be cut off, and five or six inches deep
of the old soil being neatly picked out of the
pots, to about four inches of the edges, fresh
good loam and manure must be added. By no

APPROACH OF SPBING. 89

means let the trees be taken out of the pots, as
ignorant gardeners will be sure to advise. Soak
once or twice with water, and place the trees
with the others to rest. In cold localities the
house must be well shut up when the weather is
severe ; and should the temperature sink below
zero, then some dry hay among the pots or
round them, and over their surfaces, will be very
useful.

As February comes place the trees three feet
apart from stem to stem in their places. A
house of thirty feet will hold at least thirty fine
trees. I have many more, but these are pyra-
midal or slender Cordons, and take far less room
than the bush trees. Therefore the amateur
must be guided by circumstances, as he can
always remove superfluous trees in July out of
doors to make room for the rest Some of the
fruit-bearing bushes may also be placed close to
a warm wall, between the wall trees, to ripen
their fruits, which they will do a week or two
later than if kept in-doors. I found the fruit
smaller in size, but generally finer in colour.
By March all pruning must be over as before
directed, and watering, except in severe frosts,
begin. Ventilate in mild or sunny weather, but
let the house be closed up in windy weather, or
at night. Changes of temperature or high winds
are now fatal to the blossoms, and the trees look
most beautiful. A handsome Orchard-house of

90 CORDON TRAINING.

great length will look extremely like a well-filled
conservatory at this period ; the various-coloured
blossoms making a gay and cheerful appearance,
all the more precious because of the coldness of
the out-door weather. But on sunny days, with
the ventilation then needed, the air will soon be
heated by some 10 degrees, and be refreshing to
the invalid, resembling that of a southern climate-
Having spent many winters in the south, I
can answer for the resemblance in the dry and
fragrant temperature ; perhaps the less we talk
about the latter quality in the south the better,
except among the orange and lemon trees, I
can imagine nothing more refreshing than for a
studious man to have a long walk like this opening
out of his study. Every time he raises his eyes
he is delighted with the lovely view, and when,
unable to resist the temptation, he arises and
strolls through his young trees, all so familiar to
him, how can he refrain from being thankful for
such precious gifts ! A house 100 feet long,
will furnish him in its two paths, and extre-
mities, with 250 feet of space for exercise,
unexposed to the weather, and from which he
cannot but return to his labours much strength-
ened and revived. These young trees are highly
suggestive. In their growth, in their produce
tion, in their rest, and in their decay, they are
all potent images of our own harassing career,
and of its final close.

« FIRST SWELL." 91

When the young 'trees are in bloom they re-
quire much care — they should be well watered*,
or the fruit will not set, and a gentle shaking
will tend to facilitate this important operation.
A rather high and constant temperature is also
now very necessary. When, about the end of
April, the fruit begins to " make its first swell,"
(as gardeners say), begin to syringe but gently*
and under the leaves only, and do not neglect to
water the trees, especially in warm weather.
Ventilation is now of great importance, and, in
May, all these cares are doubly needed. Worsted
netting will diminish draughts, and keep out
sooty particles, so that Orchard-houses, by this
simple precaution, succeed admirably in large
towns. The summer pinching-in of the young
shoots on the spurs will now have fairly com-
menced, and the amateur be in full career, as
this is an important period.

Syringing early, say before 8 o'clock, — and
late, after 6 o'clock in the evening, when there id
little sun to hurt, — must now be carefully at-
tended to, under penalty of insects' tyranny*
Trees three years old require two or three quarts
of water at a time, and I find it far better (as in-
deed it is in the case with flowers), to soak therrt
occasionally than to sprinkle the surface daily*
Trees seven or eight years old require one gallon

* No syringing is here meant.

92 CORDON TRAINING-

of water at a time, — thus a good garden engine
is very useful, and saves time. Trees in the
borders of course require less water, but they
should be soaked when it is done.

By the time June comes, the fruit will be
getting large, and syringing be required vigor-
ously. There is now no danger of shaking down
the young fruits. Some plums can be put out
of doors, and some apricots also, but not unless
so needed from want of room. Every care must
be given to ventilate the house by night and by
day, or the worst consequences will follow. The
potted trees should be lifted up once this month,
and once in July, to check the luxuriance of the
roots getting into the borders. Plenty of water-
ing and syringing in July, and fresh compost
placed on the surface of the pots, to be washed
in by the daily waterings. July or August is
the best time for removing trees for fruiting in
the open air, as the season is most propitious for
them; and, after having been prepared by the
two previous breakings-off of the roots (when
lifted, as before directed), they suffer no check,
and the fruit is of a suitable size for being com-
pletely ripened. Some trees can be placed near a
west wall to retard them by a fortnight, so as to
have a succession of fruits. When the windy
autumn comes, care must be taken not to let the
ripe fruits be shaken off by gusts of wind.
Ventilators to leeward are then invaluable.

i

THREE NEEDFUL DUTIES. 93

When October and November return, the potting
of new trees (to increase the stock or as a reserve),
and the renewing of the top soil of the older trees,
takes place. This is a busy time, and should be
carefully attended to. Unless watched, servants
will not take sufficient care, either in syringing,
ventilation, or potting, the three most important
duties of the Orchard-house.

This is, in fact, the only real drawback to the
success of the matter. No one can fail if he
attend to these particulars, but wherever you
read of failures it is caused by some prejudiced
domestic or inattentive master. I find 13-inch
pots the most useful size; but trees, in 18-inch
pots, are extremely enticing to cultivate. Of
course the rows nearest to the lower portions of
the house must be bush trees, with open centres ;
then should come handsome spiral Cordons of
all kinds, and, in the higher rows, pyramidal
apricots or peaches ; and, if a lean-to, Diagonal
Cordons on the wall.

Trees in pots bear very well ; the branches
should not be pinched back too abruptly, but
allowed to elongate much farther than they will
ultimately be cut down to in the winter. If
the ends are too closely pinched in, then the
lateral shoots will grow too fast ; and if these
too be also shortened, the tr6e may be unduly
dwarfed. Neither, on the other hand, should a
rank luxuriant growth be encouraged, by allow-

94 CORDON TRAINING.

ing too great length in fast-growing sorts, or by
stimulating the roots by excess of water, and too
large supplies of manure, because these trees
will not readily bear under these conditions,
and if once they get into the habit of thus ex-
tending, it is surprising how difficult it is to
keep them under in pots.

But with ordinary skill, and the attention
required to the common things of life, there
need be no apprehension entertained of failure
in pot cultivation of fruit trees. There is an
annual crop of feeding roots from above, and
one from below, and if unpruned, these last
would descend into the border, and thence draw
too potent nourishment. Lifting the trees in
June and in July prevents all this. If the trees
be in borders, then annual removal (which is less
severe, whatever may be said, than biennial,)
has the same effect. The roots are kept com-
pact, and a healthy development of spongioles
induced close to the root stem.

95

CHAP. XV.

HOW TO SUPPLY BLANK SPACES IN CORDONS.

It will occasionally happen that, in spite of every
care, blank spaces will appear on the leaders of
the various kinds of Cordons. These occasion
the only disfigurement possible in the whole
gystem, unless in the case of severe blight out of
doors, which calamity is common to all kinds of
training, and, therefore, requires a remedy, which
is, fortunately, simple and efficacious. Where-
ever, then, a whole spur has died off, or been
destroyed by accident, one of the shoots of the
spur immediately below this spot should be
allowed to grow to twelve or fifteen inches in
length. It will do so by midsummer, or at least
by the beginning of August, during which period
is the proper time for applying it to fill up the
vacant space.

It is done thus. See that this shoot fit flatly
and neatly to the spot on which it is desirable it
should ultimately grow, and having marked

96 CORDON TRAINING.

lightly the boundaries of the proposed excisions
and incisions, which are to be If inches in length,
both on the shoot and on the leader : the succeed-
ing process resembles budding roses. For a cut
If inches long being made lengthwise through
the bark of the leader, two more transverse cuts
are next made through the bark, one at either
end of the first cut. Take care not to cut too
deeply, and do not lacerate any part, or the place
where the descending fibres of the new roots are to
be will be ruined. Carefully then lift up the bark
and make it thus ready, as in budding roses, to re-
ceive the new shoot under the bark. This shoot*
having been marked where it is to meet the
opened bark, must be now operated on. A slice
is to be scooped out of it, cleanly and neatly,
If inches long, and the shoot must then be
neatly slipped into the orifice, and under the
bark of the leader.

I must not omit here to state that a bud must
have been managed to be left in the side of this
shoot, which is just opposite to the sliced-out
part, so that when it has been slipped into its
place under the bark, this bud shall appear pro-
truding, exactly as in budding roses. Proceed
then with white worsted to bind carefully round
all the parts operated on, leaving out the bud, and
bind the shoot into the leader. By this means
you will exclude all the air. If neatly done it
will surely succeed. All which I did last year

TO SUPPLT DEFICIENCIES. 97

succeeded, and were so firmly united that they
bore fruit, but did not ripen it.

In the ensuing spring, the ligatures being re--
moved, the shoot will be found united, inarched
in fact, into the leader. Then divide the shoot,
just behind and under where it is growing into
the leader, leaving it there as a new spur, while
the remaining portion, still attached to the lower
spur, is bent back to its former position, and cut
back to two buds, as required. Thus there is a
new spur gained, without loss to that from which
it was supplied. In this way all blaiik spaces
are readily filled up. Should, however, any one
be desirous of -budding to fill up this blank, then
let a triple bud be selected ; but it is, at best, a
hazardous experiment, except on very young
wood, while the plan recommended is far safer
and quite as easily executed. This method is
much in use in France, and called there ss greffe
par approche herbacfie." A neat illustration
can be seen in M. Dutreuil's work, at page 7,
ed. 1857.

H

98 CORDON TRAINING.

CHAP. XVI.

OBJECTIONS TO CORDON TRAINING ANSWERED.

The first objection to Cordon training seems to
be its apparently artificial form, by which the
tree, being closely spurred in during the summer,
is more rapidly exhausted and its duration di-
minished. You hear people after passing by the
Cordon trees with "faint praise grudgingly
given," even to visible results, come at last to
some other specimen, trained on obsolete systems,
and exclaim, " Ah ! this looks like a tree." A
sigh of relief at their torture being now over,
proves the sincerity of their present words. How
often has it been my fate to hear such observa-
tions, not from prejudiced and ignorant men, but
from otherwise well-informed people. I really
think that in this, as in many other cases by the
bye, that the fairer half of the creation has
shown a higher discernment. It is truly as-
tonishing how soon intelligent ladies will surpass
us in horticultural pursuits ; and, no doubt, the
day is at hand when the soi-disant lords of the

OBJECTIONS ANSWERED. 99

creation will surrender the management of their
Orchard-houses to the more enterprising manage-
ment, certainly to the more patient investigation
x>f causes and results — of their help-mates. They
at least have generally taken on trust what they
did not immediately apprehend; and at the end
of the season been able to rejoice in their de-
cision.

But in the case immediately referred to all ex-
perience, as yet, proves that no exhaustion of the
trees, nor shortening of their lives, takes place.
And if it did, the remedy is so obvious and so
cheap as to make this objection futile; for as
long as half-a-dozen trees in pots can supply a
reserve, nothing further need in reality be urged.
Still it must be added, that if excessive pro-
duction be the cause of the destruction of the
trees after a certain number of years, then this
is by no means an unpleasant occurrence, for the
fact is that they at present bear very little in
proportion to the time and labour devoted to them,
Uut how long it will take to exhaust the trees is
not confidently stated by any one ; and for this
excellent reason, that no trees have as yet been
exhausted after fifteen years' trial, nor are any
cases likely to occur for a longer time.

When we consider the " fast habits" of the

present day, it would seem strange if trees did not

partake of the general rapidity of circulation ;

and no doubt a " fast nectarine" has good cause

H 2

100 CORDON TRAINING.

to look back at its * c slow but not sure" rivals
toiling painfully up the walls.

In the case, too, of horizontal Cordons and
standard pear trees this objection does not apply,
for these are the slowest portions of the system,
and by no means the most productive.

But the next objection is of a widely different
character. Now it is argued that the sap of the
tree, far from exhausting the whole, will, by
being kept within undue bounds, act with such
vigour on the shoots, that they must become
elongated or wood shoots, and bear no fruit,
especially in our moist climates.

To this it is answered, that in the dry atmo-
sphere of the Orchard-house no such result need
be apprehended ; while in the case of trees in the
open ground against walls the growth of the
leaders depends mainly on the powers of the roots,
and these are greatly checked in their lateral
expansion by the nearness of their neighbours.
At the most, thirty-six inches is but a limited
space for roots of trees to expand laterally.
Again, root pruning, or annual lifting, is quite
as easy of application to any cordon tree as
it is to other trees ; nay, easier, for many
reasons.

Besides, any gardener knows, that by allowing
a foot or two of the leaders to grow beyond the
wall, and thus exhaust the superabundant sap by
gradually bending these downwards, and short-

OBJECTIONS ANSWERED. 101

ening them in the autumn, these things greatly
tend to keep the balance of growth preserved.
The borders of any trees should be well drained ;
the trees should not be stimulated with too rich
materials, and any protection to ward off the
heavy autumnal rains by a broad coping (such as
the old monks always had on their walls) at
the summit, and some planks sloping over the
border, — these last being also of a good slope.
With such precautions, indispensable under any
system whatever, there is no ground for such
fears.

It is also for this reason chiefly that triple Cor-
dons are recommended by me, having tried the
single ones previously. These last succeed well
in France; and if any one will reflect that a
Diagonal Cordon tree, with three leaders, will, on
a fair wall, cover about sixty square feet, why
should it be less likely to bear than another tree
nine feet in extension by seven in height, which
contains sixty-three square feet only? In the
latter case everyone knows that a tree of this
kind can, and will produce some five dozen
peaches yearly; but in the case of my own
Diagonal Cordons (under glass, it is true), they
produced at the rate of 150 or more peaches on
the same space. As to pear trees on this plan, I
am convinced that they will succeed admirably,
all conditions for success being duly observed.
I have none whatever under glass, because the

H3

102 CORDON TRAINING.

climate of Guernsey, where I reside, does not
require this ; but neither does it in any part of
England, except far north. Out of doors I have
this year some fine specimens of fruit, although
many of my pear trees are much younger than
the peach trees.

103

CHAP, XVII.

BEMAEKS ON THE DIMENSIONS, &C. SUITABLE
FOB OBCHABD-HOUSES.

Although a number of these interesting struc-
tures are now in full work, and are becoming
more known daily, as may be seen from the
number of inquiries made respecting my own,
and those of others, perhaps a few remarks on
their dimensions and form may not be out of
place. A lean-to Orchard-house, thirty feet
long, should be thirteen feet wide. If the back
wall be twelve feet high, that is ample ; and the
front should be about four or five feet high, but
not more. Shutters from twelve to fifteen inches
in width all along the front, which is conveniently
made of half-inch boards, and about half of the
same quantity of ventilation at the back, are re-
quired. Glass ventilators, swinging on pivots,
instead of wooden ones, are more expensive, but
where this is of no consequence, much preferable.
Such a house need not cost 307.

A lean-to house, 100 feet long or more, with
walls fifteen feet high, and eighteen or twenty

H 4

104 COBDON TRAINING.

feet wide, would be magnificent, and have a
double walk : one near the wall trees, and one
near the front row. In the smaller lean-to,
which is only thirteen feet wide, one walk only is
permissible, and that may be where you please ;
but near the wall trees is best, as it gives more
head-room, and enables you to attend to the wall
trees better. To do this, a small ladder six feet
high, and exactly twelve inches in breadth (in
order to slip between the spurs), is requisite.

A small span-roofed house should be fourteen
feet wide, five feet high at the sides, and nine
feet high to the ridge. One centre walk leads
between two rows of potted trees on either hand,
the smaller trees, of course, nearest to the sides.

A house thirty feet by fourteen costs about
30/. Larger houses are twenty feet wide, sides
about five feet high, height to the ridge about ten
feet ; the paths, two in number, must be two and
a-half feet wide. The trees are placed on raised
beds, bricked in : these beds, at the sides, should
be four feet wide and fifteen inches high ; but in
the central bed (there are three beds in all), some-
what higher and one-third broader. Here can
be grown fine pyramidal apricots and plums;
pears of choice kinds, and cherries, &c.

One of Mr. Rivera's last and best is 100 feet long
by twenty-four, and twelve feet high in the centre
by five and a-quarter feet at the sides. It is glazed
at either end, and the roof is supported by seven

DIMENSIONS OP HOUSES. 105

light iron pillars, the rafters being light. There
is a central border, and two paths, but none of
the borders are raised, which I prefer.

These large houses should stand endwise N. E.
and S. W. ; for if placed N. W. and S. E. some
parts are in shade. Nothing can well be finer
than these large span-roofed houses; they are
most ornamental and productive.

106 COEDON TRAINING.

CHAP. XVIII.

NAMES OF SOME VARIETIES RECOMMENDED FOR
IN-DOOR AND OUT-DOOR CULTURE.

In the Orchard-house, the Red Masculine ( Abri-
cot prlcoce) is a small round-shaped apricot, pale,
and musky in flavour. It ripens about the be-
ginning of July, or even earlier in hot seasons.
The Large Early (Gros pr&soce d'Esperen) fol-
lows it It is larger, but not richer in flavour.
I have some new varieties from Lombardy, one in
particular, large and very early, is far superior to
either of these. Then comes the valuable Kai-
sha, the Syrian importation, which is a most valu-
able variety — small, but well flavoured — sugary,
and it is also prolific. Then the Moorpark, a week
later, takes you into the middle of August. The
Apricot peach closes the list of really useful sorts,
though you may add many more, as Beauge, a
capital late variety of the Apricot peach, and if an
early sort be required, there are the Musch or the
Viard to choose between.

Peaches for the Orchard-house. — Here the
variety is large, but in reality only a certain num-

PEACHES BECOMMENDED. 107

ber need be cultivated. In countries where the
peach bears tolerably out o£ doors, then the very
early and the very late sorts should be selected,
although, as was truly said to me the other day,
u If you have magnificent Royal George peaches
out of doors, you may have the same sort a fort-
night earlier in the House, and so the whole crop
will not ripen at one time."

Now, this is a real advantage, as every peach-
grower knows, for I have literally found them fall
by scores from my trees during the night, and
been obliged to let them perish, they were so
bruised and so common. Nets, in this case,
should be spread 18 inches above the ground to
catch them.

But this is ridiculous cultivation, and similar to
that in the west of Canada, where, in the peach
orchards, the pigs devour the greater part of
the fruit beneath the standard trees. So, our
object should rather be — " not so much, but
better."

In the Orchard-house, then, the first fruit is
the Red Nutmeg ( Avant Peche rouge), which is
a singularly small peach, ripe in July. Then the
Early York, an American novelty, is highly
spoken of — Mr. Rivers considers it excellent.
Then the Acton Scott, an intermarriage between
Noblesse and Red Nutmeg. Such are the absurd
names given to these fruits. But Acton Scott is
useful for early exhibitions ; and though a pale,

108 COEDON TRAINING.

medium-sized peach, will probably yet hold its
ground. •

The Petite Mignonne comes next, a capital
variety, and to connoisseurs, the best early peach.
It is rare, however, and is succeeded by the Old
Grosse Mignonne, which every one speaks so
much of; but I cannot say much for it, as it is
every one's duty to speak the truth ; and then the
mid-season peaches. Noblesse is a well-known
kind to the visitors of Covent Garden. Choose
the Sulhampstead variety of this, it being by far
the best, and the hardiest for the open wall,
and also forces well. Then the JJeine des Vergers,
a very good peach (mine ripened early in August
this year) ; then Royal George and Red Magdalen;
two old friends found in every old garden.

After these come the Malta, that excellent
peach. Noisette, no mean judge, calls it "his
favourite ; " and mine this year, even the smallest,
were nine inches in circumference. Besides, the
Malta peach will hang on the tree without falling,
an excellent quality in any fruit It will also be
the best to send to your friends at a distance, be-
cause it bears carriage the best of any.

Then you may have the Chancellor peach;
Rivers and Leroy of Angers call it Cf excellent,"
though MacEwen calls it " ugly." It is a
long, almond-shaped peach — rather bitter, but
otherwise curious, and good. Mine this year
were very fine. Then Barrington ; then Bourdine,

PEACHES RECOMMENDED. 109

all September peaches, but in the Orchard-house
rather earlier ; then Walburton Admirable, that
noble kind, and Desse Tardive — a most beau-
tiful, yellow-coloured, large variety. I have
Bellegarde (Noire de Montreuil), which the
French rave about. It is excellent, but not
first-rate under glass, nor Belle Bauce.

Belle de Vitry ripened in September. It is
a staple of the Montreuil gardens for the Paris
market with Bellegarde, — and I prefer it, — but
the tree is very vigorous, and may exceed your
powers to keep it under. Mr. Rivers does not
notice it in his catalogue, and you can do without
it. Then there are the Pavie or clingstone
peaches; of which I can only say, that they
who make trial of them will discover something
worth their labour. My own this year are very
fine; but I cannot retard them as I hoped.
Pavie de Tonneux, (s fruit magnifique," (as
Leroy says), ripens a month earlier than was
desirable ; but is a noble peach.

Many others the amateur will see in cata-
logues, and will, in time, choose for himself. For
the present, I content myself with stating what
I have found very good. I must not omit, how-
ever, Pourpree H&tive. If you can get it true it
is of a most vinous flavour, and Admirable
Jaune, a capital peach — yellow — and common at
Angers in September. I have three trees of this
kind, one full of fruit, but not yet gathered.

110 CORDON TRAINING.

Also Monstrueuse de Dou6 was very fine indeed
from the wall. Tardive d'Espagne, a late pointed
peach, is as yet far from ripe, and I have great
hopes it will not ripen till late in October. All
my desires have been to prolong the peach season.
I found the Orchard-house hastens them too
much, and a late peach, truly good, is yet a
variety to be desired everywhere. One that
should be ripe in November, say by the 5th, and
yet require no sugar to eat with it, has not yet
been found,

Nectarines for the Orchard-house. — Here I
enter into the best part of the subject, according
to my own ideas, — a ripe nectarine beingi as I
think, the finest of all fruits, and far superior to
a peach. As to growing nectarines in the open
air, it is simply ridiculous, and only answers in
extraordinary seasons. In the House, Fairchild's
Early is a small but early variety ; then Hunt's
Tawny, a distinct, yellow nectarine, of not too
much flavour, but excellent nevertheless. Then
folio ws rapidly in August, Elruge ( QLil-rouge ?), a
very old sort, as old as Charles IPs. time. It is
most useful for exhibiting, as any list proves,
and capital for forcing; but Only of medium
size.

Violette Hative is a very superior variety, excel-
lent for exhibition, only medium size, but prolific
and good. Pitmaston too is well known. These
three are first-rate. Hardwich Seedling, hardy,

NECTARINES RECOMMENDED. Ill

firm flesh, a great favourite of mine ; then the
Murrey, medium size, immense stone, very racy 1
flavour ; the Due du Telliers, a large prolific kind,
very good indeed. The Downton, large and
showy, but not so aromatic as the Murrey. The
Late Melting, a good late sort for exhibitors.
The White is also earlier than some of these, and
the Newington race are all good. The Red
Roman is immense, but difficult to soften, and
the Stanwick is the best of all. It, however,
cracks very much ; nevertheless it is very sweet,
and the kernel has really no bitter taste, as
reported. Mine this year are very fine and
numerous, and I think with care they might be
grown without fire heat; otherwise this is the
chief of nectarines in every way. It is of Syrian
extraction ; and comes, I think, from our Consul
there.

Plums for the Orchard-house. — The Early
Favourite (Rivers) ripens the earliest, about the
middle of July. Then the St. Etienne about the
beginning of August, — a sweet yellow plum.
Then Denhiston's Superb, darker in colour, very
prolific, and very good. Then the Green Gage
for the end of August ; the delicious American
Jefferson ; the Reine Claude de Bavay, a splendid
plum ; Coe's Golden Drop, first-rate for pots ;
the old Quetsche ; the Late Orleans, and Huling's
Superb. All these are very good for pot culture,
and can be depended on.

112 CORDON TRAINING.

Pears for the Orchard-house. — In this case
each person must select according to his indivi-
dual taste. Some kinds are really better, as the
Brown Beurre, the Josephine de Malines, the
Beurre Clairgeau, the Bergamotte d'Esperen, the
Winter Nelis, the Louise Bonne, and the Van
Mons Leon Leclefc. All these are decidedly
good pears. The Winter Nelis and Josephine
are the best, according to Mr. Rivers.

The summer pears hardly require protection;
but if in cold localities far north it is wished to
have one or two in-doors, then choose the Doy-
enn6 d'Et6 and the Jargonelle.

Apples. — The Newtown Pippin and Northern
Spy are the best, and others are readily discovered
if required.

It must not be forgotten by the amateur, that
at least one-half of the trees for his Orchard-
house should be purchased in a bearing state,
because by this plan he will have fruit at once,
and also have models of what his training the
others should be.

For out-door culture, the best peaches are
Noblesse, Royal George, Gxosse Mignonne, Belle-
garde, Red Magdalen; and, of late sorts, Sourdine
and Chancellor. The Elruge, Violette Hative,and
Pitmaston oranges are the best for out-door cul-
ture ; of the nectarines. Apricots. — The Moor-
park in favourable localities, but it is a very shy

TREES FOB OPEN AIR CULTURE. 113

bearer ; the Roman, the Hermskirke, a nice large
variety ; and the hardy Breda, which comes in
August, and can be recommended. Alberge
de Montgamet is small, early and hardy. The
Royal Apricot is also a valuable kind.

114 CORDON TRAINING.

CHAP. XIX.

CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS.

This last chapter shall be soon written. By 'this
time, doubtless, the amateur is more than satiated
with peremptory precepts. But they were un-
avoidable. The only alternative was to introduce
endless physiological discussions, which it would
not have been difficult to do, but which would
not have simplified anything. On the other
hand, without a few general principles on which
sound training is best conducted, every observa-
tion would necessarily have had to be taken on
trust. The consolation is, that this defect is
common to all books on fruit culture. " The
explanations of horticultural operations," says
Lindley, " are simple, and free from obscurity ;
provided they are not encumbered with specula-
tions. Chemical illustrations, unless of the sim-
plest kind, or references to the agency of electri-
city, have little obvious application to practical
purposes."

The object of a brief work like this, is not to

REPOSE OP PLANTS. 115

elucidate the laws of vegetable life in all their
minute and, it must be freely confessed, obscure
details, but to narrate to those already acquainted
with the art of horticulture, some experiences,
with which they have not had the leisure to be*
come familiar. Certainly there were many most
interesting natural phenomena which were very
tempting to enter into : respecting temperature,
for example, a vital point in these matters; or
moisture of soils; on the periods required by
plants for rest, which is a very important subject,
and one which that acute observer, Mr. Knight,
has so well explained.

Certainly, few peoplejppreciate the necessity ^
ofjiumal repose for plants^asj^HLMjfee]r^b^(
restjluring the wi nter months,, and thus the per-/
nicious custom of keeping up high temperatures)
during the night hj. forcing houses is still too\
much in favour. This vicious custom exhausts*
the trees, without promoting their growth orl
aiding the ripening process, and as it bears so/
directly on the subject treated of here, I cannot \
refrain from quoting as follows: "As early in
the spring as I wanted the blossoms of my peach \
trees to unfold, my house was made warm during )
the middle of the day ; but, towards night, it was'.
suffered to cool, and the trees well syringed at as /
nearly the temperature of the natural exhalations )
as I could."

Under this treatment Mr. Knight's trees
z 2

/£/

116 CORDON TRAINING.

flourished, and the blossoms were extremely
large, this being a most important matter, as the
size of the blossom much regulates the size of
the fruit.

Then the subject of soils is quite endless. It,
however, deserves a volume to itself, it is so im-
portant.

For example, in sandy districts which are so

very soon heated, the sand seldom dries deeper

than ten or twelve inches, while sea-salt becomes

damp at night. On the other hand, clay heats

very slowly, besides being too compact for the

\ spongioles to penetrate, and retaining water. It

/ has, therefore, every bad quality. S^ftd, however,

\ dries up too rapidly to be suitable by itself. ^A

/ mean_hetwepn tjiftsej^tT^mft naafta }^ |,hg l ft f nrft -

\of gengrdjise, jyitU. the addition of peat. These

/ exercise separate and counteracting influences.

Thft fofrpi PHTiflnlidat tes. : the, saniJighiens; and

/thereat unites. Thi ft {*, i^x^gr^ a profit

Vmixture.

) Nevertheless^ tlu&Joan^ winch has th f L p?n gt^

(calcareous matter is far the best,. for cafcaiSOUS.

'earth enters^ largely into -the. QlgauJfiai&DLJof

\ plants. It also, according to Davy, depends

on the action of the lime and vegetable matter

together. Manures act, either by stimulating,

by absorbing the moisture, or by supplying food,

i. e. carbon and nitrogen. Carbonic acid, at least,

forms an essential part of the substances of plants.

FALL OP RAIN, — VENTILATION. 117

It is, however, proper to apply manure when the
plants are rapidly growing, and to those parts
which can absorb it, and not, as a great many do,
at the stems of the trees.

The fall of rain furnishes the observer with
many most interesting phenomena for remark,
and thus horticulture leads the inquirer into many
paths he would otherwise never have trod. Less
rain will certainly fall on the top of the house
than falls on the surface of the ground. The
average of downpour of a day and night is one
inch of water ; but in the west of England it is {
one third more, and in the lake districts double <
the quantity. It is also remarkable how a high *
temperature with a south-west wind will absorb
the vapours, and cause a delicious temperature,
most healthy for men as well as for plants. But
the climate of England is certainly very moist,
and every precaution must be taken to carry away
the superfluous waters from the borders.

Ventilation is an inexhaustible subject, and one
of much moment to the horticulturist. In the
Orchard-house, however, it is much simplified,
though I see that Mr. Rivers recommends fewer
top ventilators than were of use at first, and
certainly cold currents of air, especially if charged
with excessive moisture, cannot be suitable to
peach culture. Precautions must therefore be
taken to guard against these, as also against
strong winds acting directly on the ripened fruit.

118 CORDON TRAINING.

r Ventilation is chiefly necessary to carry off noxious
/vapours, and it is inconceivable how soon these
Ure generated. A minute quantity of sulphurous
) acid will cause every leaf in the house to drop in
day. In forcing-houses ventilation in the
spring is rather injurious than beneficial. When
the air is charged with moisture it is more suitable
for plants in a growing state than when they are
ready to rest. "The skilful balancing of the
temperature and moisture of the air, and a just
adaptation of them to the various seasons of
growth, constitutes the most complicated part of a
gardener's art." — Lindlerfs Theory of Horticulture,
Enough, however, has been said on these sub-
jects, and perhaps by this time the reader is
reduced to that condition in which Horace,
anxious to prepare for his supper party, que-
rulously tells his servant, "Persicos odi, puer,
apparatus,"- which, as the botanical name of the
peach is st Persica," may be thus rendered :
" Gardener, I am sick of your peach training."

The principal suggestions are — summer pinch-
ing reduced to a method, and perfected in the
winter pruning of peaches on the alternate sys-
tem ; and the placing the trees diagonally at
short intervals. I have not dwelt much on the
obvious advantage of being able in this way
to occupy a valuable wall with a succession of
fruits, precious to the cultivator as this must be,
because it seemed to me that the being able to

CONCLUSION. 119

shorten the period in which the wall space could
be covered with fruitful wood, completely over-
shadowed other considerations, for in horticul-
ture, as in other matters, the gain of a year is
of inestimable value.

I only wish, therefore, to say that no appre-
hension need be entertained of the shoots on
the leaders becoming too long to manage, (an
apprehension, by the bye, not without its cause,
for Mr. Rivers writes to me on this subject, that
he finds these very shoots "always fighting to
get away from the tree,") but by merely allow-
ing a few leaves to grow beyond the long bear-
ing shoot (as in the vine), and by cutting, it
back to two buds directly after bearing, the
shoots can be kept compact, fruitful, and close
to the main stem.

In all these cases, the reader will readily have
discerned that my favourite is the Diagonal
Cordon, but with the exception of the growth
on the lower sides of this form being weaker
than those on the upper, the management of the
spurs and shoots is the same in all cases.

I have had much pleasure in writing this book,
but at the close I feel that others will profit by
my hints, and that I must exert myself if I wish
to keep pace with them in the friendly race.

•_;>_<r

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