Full text of "Corona and Coronet : being a narrative of the Amherst eclipse expedition to Japan, in Mr. James's schooner-yacht Coronet, to observe the sun's total obscuration, 9th August, 1896"

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SECOND IMPRESSION

CAPTAIN AND MRS. ARTHUR CURTISS JAMES

THIS STORY OF ONE

CRUISE OF THE CORONET

IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED

PREFACE

The expedition proper, sent out to observe
the total eclipse of the sun in Japan on the 9th
of August, 1896, through the liberality of Mr. D.
Willis James and his son, owners of the schooner
yacht Coronet, consisted of nine persons, — Cap-
tain and Mrs. Arthur Curtiss James ; Professor
and Mrs. David P. Todd ; Passed Assistant Engi-
neer John Pemberton, U. S. Navy; Mr. Willard
P. Gerrish of Harvard College Observatory;
Vanderpoel Adriance, M. D., of the College of
Physicians and Surgeons, Columbia University ;
Mr. Arthur W. Francis of New York ; and Mr.
E. A. Thompson, mechanician, of Amherst.

Certain aspects of this memorable trip have
seemed worthy of narration, covering, as it did,
more than ten thousand miles of sailing for
our party, and at least forty-five thousand miles
of deep sea voyaging for the Coronet. As an
" unscientific account of a scientific expedition,"
it necessarily makes divers small branchings in

vi PREFACE

its course, like a sort of ornamental needlework
much affected by our grandmothers. I have, as
it were, feather-stitched my way to Yezo and
back again.

To avoid repetition, our friendly company are
named on paper as they were often designated
on board, — the Captain, the Professor or Astro-
nomer, the Doctor, the Musician, and so on. Mr.
Francis was apt to be addressed as General,
largely because of his masterful management of
expedition finances ; and Mr. Pemberton was
known as Chief, having been many years chief
engineer of the U. S. S. Monocacy while attached
to our Asiatic squadron. During that time, he
had in 1887 accompanied Professor Todd's ear-
lier expedition to Shirakawa, in central Japan,
where his assistance was peculiarly welcome.

The narrative owes much to many friends,
first and foremost to the owners of the Coronet
for making the expedition possible ; to my hus-
band for reducing to accuracy my attempts at
describing the scientific phases of the trip ; and
to all our fellow voyagers for drawings, photo-
graphs, or material no less picturesque in its
way. Of more than ordinary interest is the brief
paper upon deep-sea sailing from the point of
view of a practical and enthusiastic yachtsman,
written by the younger of the Coronet's owners.

PREFACE vii

President Hill of the Great Northern Rail-
way has put the whole expedition in his debt for
the generous courtesy of transportation in his
private car from Chicago to San Francisco. At
the latter place Mr. Merrill and Mr. Wheeler
were untiring in facilities accorded us, and their
warehouses afforded most convenient headquar-
ters for the expedition on the Pacific Coast.

In Honolulu, obligation was constant to the
hospitable friends who united in showing us the
characteristic side of Hawaiian hfe, as well as to
others who gave practical aid to the more serious
side of our work ; especially to President Dole,
and to Professor Alexander, surveyor general,
and his assistants.

In Japan a list of those through whose kind-
ness the pathway of the expedition was made
smooth, even luxurious, would comprise almost
every one with whom we came in contact, from
personal friends of various nationalities who
entertained us, to the government officials who
granted railroad passes, special steamers, and
facilities otherwise impossible. Many pleasant
and essential favors were obtained through the
friendliness of Mr. Hayashi and Mr. Kabayama ;
and of Mr. Herod, then charge d'affaires of our
legation at Tokyo. Also the governor of Hok-
kaido and the mayor of Esashi exerted them-
selves most courteously in our behalf.

viii PREFACE

Without the intelligent services of Mr. Oshima
and Mr. Murakami, both teachers in government
colleges, ease of communication in remote local-
ities would not have been attainable; and to
Professor Burton and Mr. Ogawa warm thanks
are due for fine views of the Ainu and northern
Yezo.

I must not omit mention of the kindly assist-
ance in many technicalities, Hawaiian and Jap-
anese, given me by Mrs. Frances Carter Crehore,
formerly of Honolulu, and by Miss Ume Tsuda, of
the Peeresses' School in Tokyo. Also the editors
of ''The Nation," ''The Century Magazine,"
"The Atlantic Monthly," "The Independent,"
and " The Outlook," have kindly given permis-
sion to reprint my articles originally published
in their magazines.

M. L. T,

Observatory House,
Amherst, October \%^Z.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGB

Introductory xiii

Deep-Sea Yachting by A. C. James . . xxiii

I. The Coronet i

II. Preparation 8

III. Overland 14

IV. Sausalito 24

V. Fifteen Days at Sea .... 30

VI. Life in Honolulu 42

VII. Hawaiian Volcanoes .... 58

VIII. A Hawaiian Journey 68

IX. KiLAUEA 78

X. A Poi Luncheon 88

XI. With Kate Field 97

XII. A Mid-Pacific College .... 104

XIII. The Lepers of Molokai . . . . m

XIV. Four Weeks at Sea 125

XV. Japan Revisited 139

XVI. Departure of the Expedition . . -155

XVII. In Familiar Haunts . . . . 172

XVIIL Southward 181

XIX. Gifu and the Cormorant Fishing . 188

XX. Kyoto 1^4

XXI. Nara 200

XXII. Yachting in the Inland Sea . . .216

XXIII. Expedition Experiences .... 229

CONTENTS

XXIV. The Tidal Wave 241

XXV. In Pursuit of a Shadow . . . 254

XXVI. Still Pursuing . . . . . . 264

XXVII. EsASHi in Kitami 272

XXVIII. In Ainu Land 292

XXIX. The Eclipse 318

XXX. A Native Celebration . . . .327

XXXI. Voyage on a French Cruiser . . 336

XXXII. Homeward Bound 343

XXXIII. Back to an Arizona Copper Mine . 357

Index. . * 377

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Mr. James's Schooner Yacht Coronet Frontispiece.

Expedition Headquarters at Esashi . . Facing lo

The Rotary Snow-Plough at Wellington . . 20

Expedition Work on Board 36

Residence of President Dole in Honolulu . 50

Hawaiian Village Landing-Place .... 64

Sulphur Blow-Hole in the Crater of Kilauea 80

Kate Field 98

Cottage in Dr. McGrew's Grounds where Miss

Field died 102

BoKi, Ruler of Oahu in 1820, and Liliha his Wife 104

Captain and Owner of the Coronet ... 134
Map of Japan showing Track of Total Solar

Eclipse 158

The Coronet dressed for the Fourth of July,

Yokohama Harbor, the Olympia at the right 180

A "Float" in Matsuri Procession at Kyoto . 206

Stone Lanterns and Cryptomerias at Nara . . 212

Temple at Nara 214

View on the Railway near Morioka . . . 230

Landing the Emperor's Portrait at Esashi . 238
The Great Tidal Wave as portrayed in a Native

Magazine 248

Ainu Couple, the Woman wearing Ceremonial

Beads 260

A Typical Ainu 268

The Electric Commutator 278

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Japanese Carpenter making Plate-Holders at

Eclipse Station 280

Fanciful Lamp-Post and Native Inn at Esashi . . 282
Ainu holding Mustache-Lifter, about to drink

Sake 290

Old Ainu Chieftain 300

Ainu Woman carrying Child and Burden . . 304
Articles gathered in Ainu Houses . . . 312
Lighthouse on the Beach at Esashi (from a Draw-
ing by Mr. Thompson) 322

Expedition Members, and Old Schoolhouse, after

the Eclipse 324

A "Hairy Ainu" 340

Route of the Expedition, and Coronet's Course 354

Ainu Woman weaving Elm-Fibre into Cloth . 360

Articles of Ainu Manufacture 368

INTRODUCTORY

Chasing eclipses, always of interest in itself
whether the eclipse be caught or not, yields great
wealth to science when these elusive phenomena
are properly overtaken.

Sun and moon are of apparently the same size,
and by a happy working of the celestial mechan-
ism the moon sometimes comes directly between
us and our central luminary, causing a total
eclipse of the sun. But this happy state of
things can by no means last longer than eight
minutes. Usually in far less time sun and moon
seem to slip past one another, and though for
two hours or more the partial phases may con-
tinue, the duration of entire darkness is, on an
average, not much over three minutes.

The astronomer wishes totality could last
three hours or three months, that by the benefi-
cent shielding of the sun's intense brightness he
might have an opportunity of studying without
interruption that most beautiful and mysterious
sight in nature, — the outflashing radiance of
the corona.

INTRODUCTORY

This spectacle, so impressive as hardly to ad-
mit of description, has, thus far in the history of
science, been visible only during a total eclipse.
Possibly in part an atmosphere of the sun, hold-
ing the secret of solar constitution and energy,
what wonder that the enthusiastic specialist
longs to interrogate its reticent streamers until
hidden things shall come forth to his questioning
telescope and camera. If a permanent eclipse
would only disclose coronal secrets, any serious
interference with mundane matters would give
him small concern.

By a series of saddening calculations, based
upon the number of eclipses in a century, the
length of total phase, probability of cloud, and
average number of observers and telescopes
likely to address specific questions to the sun
at the time of his temporary retirement ; consid-
ering, too, the fondness of eclipse tracks for
oceans, deserts, tropic marshes, impassable for-
ests, and other localities where no civilized hu-
man being, not even an astronomer, can follow,
the ardent pursuer reaches depressing conclu-
sions. A miserly century, despite its seventy
total eclipses of the sun, allows only about one
solid day's watching of the corona. Very natu-
ral, then, the impatience to follow, if this fasci-
nating shadow beckons toward regions even

INTRODUCTORY

remotely accessible; and no less the desire to
invent something whereby the precious three
minutes, rich with tantalizing stores of coronal
wealth, may virtually be lengthened many fold.
To accomplish this end was mainly the object of
our Amherst expedition.

Those who follow in the train of an astrono-
mer, belonging strictly to his family, scarcely
know, amid a multitude of original diversions,
where to find themselves from day to day, in an
existence successfully robbed of monotony. Not
only does he rise at all hours after midnight and
remain awake at all hours before ; not only does
he fill the house with developed and undeveloped
photographic plates of stars and meteors, ghostly
nebulae and flying comets, as well as sketches of
sun-spots and blue prints of strange apparatus ;
not only do piles of student examination papers,
covered with frenzied diagrams, hide beneath
apparently innocent magazines ; and proof-sheets
of forthcoming volumes lie in wait in every
drawer ; but one should never be amazed to meet
the Professor himself at a moment's notice in
any portion of the globe.

Eclipse shadows rarely fall upon him comfort-
ably ensconced in his home observatory. Should
he experience the good fortune of witnessing a
. single one from his domestic dome, about three

INTRODUCTORY

hundred and fifty years must elapse before an-
other would pass that way. Eclipse astronomers
are necessarily cosmopolitan.

But, apparently erratic, these paths of dark-
ness, like all celestial movements, are subject to
definite law, only of such immense scope that
one generation is not long enough to observe an
appreciable fraction of its operation. In a single
astronomer's lifetime, eclipse tracks may seem to
obey their own sweet will, — falling, for instance,
in his youth upon France (1842) and Sweden
(185 1), crossing Peru (1858), Spain and the Paci-
fic coast of North America (i860) in his man-
hood ; if still enthusiastic he would have gone to
the Malay peninsula (1868), even extending his
research to the great American eclipse (1878) ;
had he begun at an especially tender age with
the French eclipse, he might have retained eye-
sight and energy enough to journey to Egypt
for a glimpse of its traditional darkness (1882).
Here is variety of locality enough to confuse all
theories of eclipse visitation based upon individ-
ual experience. Unhappily he cannot seek far-
ther transits of Venus, because the next one
occurs A. D. 2004, a date somewhat in advance
of even the most hopeful astronomer who has
the misfortune of being already alive. But
eclipses and other spectacles in the firmament

INTRODUCTORY

generally deny their beauties and revelations to
strictly civilized centres. And so, although here
to-day, he is to-morrow on the high road or the
high seas, bound for Alaska or Pike's Peak,
West Africa or the Marquesas Islands, Egypt or
Chile. He speaks of these somewhat unusual
localities with a familiarity not known to the
tourist, and born of close acquaintance and supe-
rior companionship. He casually mentions resi-
dence for a time in Nova Zembla or Vladivostok
as too much a matter of course even for comment.
Truly, intimacy with immeasurable stretches of
infinite space induces a just estimate of the
meagre dimensions of our own planet, where few
regions are impossibly remote or forbidding, if
only some celestial performance be visible from
their all but inaccessible wastes.

Rarely were such expeditions undertaken until
the middle of the present century, and it was
not many years ago that " darkening of the sun
at noonday " meant unreasoning terror, even de-
spair, to all beholders. Even now, in parts of
China and India, superstitious ceremonies are
performed while the ** great monster" calmly de-
vours the friendly sun. In Japan, until recently,
ignorant peasants covered their wells during
eclipses to prevent poison from falling into them
from the sky.

INTRODUCTORY

If, in olden time, an eclipse occurred within
convenient distance, astronomers observed the
time of beginning and ending, sometimes not-
ing the fact that a pale halo of light seemed to
encircle the dark body of the moon. That this
corona had definite structure, or that it offered
important problems, apparently never occurred
to early observers. Scientific study of the corona
and of the sun's constitution has been wholly
contained in the last sixty years, the significance
of total eclipses of the sun being a purely mod-
ern recognition.

Although invented in 1839, photography was
first successfully applied to a total eclipse of the
Sim in 185 1 at Konigsberg, securing a fine re-
cord, not only of the wonderful red prominences
which burst forth at totality, but of the myste-
rious radiance of the ethereal corona. Hence-
forward, advance in this method of observation
was rapid, and in 1868 Janssen in India, after the
longest eclipse ever observed (about five minutes
and a half), announced the epoch-making discov-
ery, that the protuberances can be studied by
the spectroscope without an eclipse, — that is, in
full sunlight. Yet the character of the blood-red
jets is not in all respects the same as when the
moon's dark body makes the screen, so that ne-
cessity for continued research upon them during

INTRODUCTORY

eclipses still remains. But no triumphant ob-
server has yet reported success in seeing the
corona without an eclipse, though many trials
with highly sensitive instruments have been
made. Future years may bring, too, this longed-
for achievement.

Prior to i860 it was not even certain that the
corona belonged to the sun at all. The outer
streamers, sometimes extending ten or eleven
million miles into space, were discovered by
Professor Langley in 1878, from the summit of
Pike's Peak. A material found in the corona by
Professor Young in 1869 was named " coronium,"
being unlike anything known upon earth ; and
his marvelous "reversing layer" — when for a
second or two before totality all the dark lines
in the spectrum suddenly flash forth in great
brilliance (seen for the first time in Spain in
1870, and confirmed in 1874 at Cape Colony)
— was photographed during the eclipse of 1896
by Sir Baden Powell's party in Nova Zembla,
and abundantly verified in India two years
later.

Thus, bit by bit, our stores of knowledge of
the corona accumulate. Finely equipped expedi-
tions to follow the fleeting pathway of shadow
are in our day constantly sent out, often by gov-
ernment, and the leading nations of the world

INTRODUCTORY

vie with one another in the amount of valuable
material gathered by their astronomers.

Questions of probable cloud are, of course,
very important. As the shadow will fall over
localities known many years in advance, observa-
tions of prevailing sky conditions are possible
during several seasons beforehand all along the
track of anticipated darkness, and from a com-
parison of them, regions least cloudy can be
chosen.

Selecting the site for an observing station
involves great, almost terrifying, responsibihty.
Of four or five available places, one may prove
clear and the others cloudy on the fateful day ;
or one may be overcast while the remainder re-
joice in brightest weather. And the wrong one
may have been chosen.

Aggregation of many observers in one region
is less desirable, scientifically considered, than
various parties scattered along its line ; for possi-
bilities of cloud-interference are less, and it is de-
sirable also to know whether the corona during a
single eclipse presents exactly the same features
to eyes hundreds of miles apart. In other words,
whether or not it may change in two or three
hours. As the track is ordinarily many thousand
miles in length, this scattering of observers along
the land-line is by no means impracticable.

INTRO D UCTOR V

The eclipse of 1 896 offered a variety of oppor-
tunities. Beginning in Norway, the track lay
across frozen Nova Zembla, through Siberia and
the Amur River region ; thence crossing the Sea
of Japan it traversed the Hokkaido, or northern
islands of the Japanese Empire, losing itself at
last in the Pacific Ocean.

Norway dismissed from consideration as our
goal because several other parties of observers
had planned to locate there. Nova Zembla was
investigated ; but the eclipse not occurring until
the ninth of August, and the Coronet having no
steam, it was deemed inexpedient to remain so
late in the far north. The prospect of a possible
winter ice-bound in an Arctic harbor was not
sufficiently alluring to risk the reality.

For three years, at Professor Todd's request,
meteorological observations had been made in
Japan, throughout the region of coming eclipse ;
and Yezo, the largest northern island, was made
the destination of the Amherst Eclipse Expedi-
tion.

In October, 1895, plans were laid, instruments
and their mountings begun, and the Coronet was
preparing for her long voyage around the Horn.

DEEP-SEA YACHTING

BY ARTHUR CURTISS JAMES

To the yachtsman truly interested in his
hobby, who enjoys a home on the rolling deep
for its own sake, deep-sea cruising affords a wider
scope and more perfect enjoyment than can possi-
bly be obtained from short trips on inland waters.

The coast of Maine and the waters of Long
Island Sound are unsurpassed anywhere in the
world as headquarters for Corinthian sailors, but
it is not until '* Farewell " has been taken and
the first course set for a distant port, that the
true lover of the sea begins to feel the exhilara-
tion of life on the ocean wave. Newspapers are
not wanted. Telegrams are impossible. "■ Worry
is left behind, and the yachtsman enters upon an
indefinite period of perfect contentment. Details
of managing the vessel, the study and practice
of navigation and seamanship, even settling the
quarrels of sailors and cooks, are simply pleasant
pastimes. Events which on shore would cause
endless annoyance and trouble, at sea mean
simply more work and wider experience. Storms,
fog, accidents, are to the sailor only incidents,

DEEP-SEA YACHTING

and every new difficulty arising suggests a way
to meet it.

The yachtsman who is able to do so should
command his ship at all times, and particularly
on a long ocean voyage. He will find more
opportunities to improve his navigation and to
develop seamanlike qualities in one month at sea
than in three years' regular yachting near home.
He should be thoroughly familiar with every
department of his ship, and by so doing he may
rest assured that time, even on the longest voy-
age, will not hang heavily on his hands.

Probably every one who has been to sea has a
different theory as to the best class of yacht for
a long ocean voyage. Designers have given us
everything, from the immense floating steel shell
inclosing five thousand horse-power, to the able
little pilot boats remodeled with all the comforts
of a yacht. The Coronet is practically of the
latter class. Built in 1885, of one hundred and
fifty -two tons net register, one hundred and
thirty-three feet over all, twenty-seven feet beam
and twelve and one half feet draught, she has
since that time covered a greater number of
miles than any other American yacht. Her
career was opened, and her first reputation made,
by defeating the famous schooner yacht Daunt-
less in a midwinter race from New York to
Queenstown. Shortly after, she rounded Cape

DEEP-SEA YACHTING

Horn during the worst season of the year, mak-
ing the voyage from New York to San Francisco
in one hundred and five days. Her trip around
the world, completed in thirteen months, was
followed by four trips to Europe, and two to the
West Indies.

The completion of the Japan trip has added
forty-five thousand miles to her record. During
her whole history, she has never lost so much as
a bucket from her decks, nor met with any seri-
ous mishap. From my experience on the Coro-
net, I should not know how to improve upon her
for a strictly sailing deep-sea cruising yacht, dry
and comfortable in all weathers, and able to keep
the sea and make* passages with almost a steam-
er's regularity.

There is an old sailors' maxim that " they who
go down to the sea in ships behold the wonders
of the deep, but they who go down to the sea
in schooners see Hell," and without doubt this
saying has considerable foundation in fact. For
running before a light wind in a heavy following
sea, the long main boom of a large schooner
yacht is certainly a dangerous companion ; and
should it break loose, it would be likely to take
charge of the deck, and almost certainly cause
serious damage. For ocean work a squaresail
is an absolute necessity, for then the foresail and
squaresail can be set and the mainsail taken in

DEEP-SEA YACHTING

when running. The squaresail yard also gives
scope to one's ingenuity in planning additional
skysails and other forms of balloon canvas. The
utility of this rig was soon discovered after sail-
ing from San Francisco.

The coast of California is by no means an
attractive place for yachting. The glorious cli-
mate for which the state is so renowned confines
itself strictly to the land, while at sea fogs, gales,
and calms alternate with surprising regularity.

It was without much regret that we left our
anchorage in San Francisco Bay, and headed the
Coronet for the Hawaiian Islands. The San
Francisco bar demanded tribute from most of
the party, but at length farewell was taken at the
Farallones, and the trip to Japan fairly started.
The first week's run was the poorest in the his-
tory of the vessel, averaging only one hundred
miles a day ; but after finding the trade winds in
latitude 27° N., the Coronet seemed ashamed of
herself, and made two hundred and fifty miles
daily in the effort to retrieve her reputation. A
considerable part of the distance was covered
without aid of the mainsail, under foresail and
squaresail.

The evening of the fifteenth day found us
safely anchored in the snug little harbor of Hon-
olulu. It is not the province of this chapter to
describe the beauties of the Islands, nor to dwell

DEEP-SEA YACHTING

on the delights of a visit to what has been well
named the " Paradise of the Pacific," and could
with equal truth be called the Paradise of the
World. Even after extended acquaintance with
the undeniable and oft described charms of *' Pic-
turesque and Progressive Japan," it is enough to
say that our stay in the Islands was the most
delightful of the entire trip ; and it was the unani-
mous hope that the mother country might become
better acquainted, and more closely united to our
countrymen of the Hawaiian Republic.

To the yachtsman, the islands of the Pacific
lying north and south of the equator afford an
inexhaustible field for most delightful cruises.
From the latitude of Honolulu south to Pitcairn
and stretching across the Pacific to Australia,
are thousands of islands, many of them inhabited
by curious and interesting races.

Yachtsmen have been criticised, and in some
cases justly, for using their magnificent fleet of
vessels as mere toys. What an assistance they
might be in advancing our knowledge of geogra-
phy, if their pleasure trips could be turned to
some practical account ! With plenty of time,
which is of course essential to a thorough enjoy-
ment of any cruise, and with a properly equipped
yacht at one's command, I know of no part of
the world which would better repay a visit, or
which could yield more valuable results in ex-

DEEP-SEA YACHTING

tending geographical and commercial knowledge,
presenting, as it does, so wide and unexplored a
field for scientific research.

Our knowledge of the islands of the Pacific is
at best exceedingly meagre, and there is cer-
tainly no class of men better fitted, either by edu-
cation or equipment, to cooperate with the navy
in adding to our store of information than the
yachtsmen of the United States.

The object of the expedition made it impossi-
ble for us to linger long in Honolulu, and inad-
visable to make any other stop ; but if the fates
favor, the Coronet may before long again be
headed for "The Paradise of the Pacific" and
tKe islands of the southern seas.

There is no need of waiting for a fair wind or
favorable weather to start on a cruise from the
Islands. The trade winds are practically always
fair, and the sailor need seldom look for anything
more terrible than a rain squall to interfere with
his plans.

The afternoon of the 25th of May found the
Coronet again in her element, out of sight of
land, with boats lashed securely on deck and
everything snug below and aloft ; prepared for
anything which might be in store for her on the
four thousand miles of sea that must be covered
before reaching Yokohama. The sailing course
from Honolulu to Japan is considerably longer

DEEP-SEA YACHTING

than that followed by the steamers, but the time
at sea might have been doubled and still no one
would have objected, so delightful was the entire
trip. In order to hold the trade winds, we kept
between the parallels of i8° and 20° north, lati-
tude almost the entire distance ; and so perfect
summer weather was assured. Day after day
the awning was set on the quarterdeck and the
yacht kept on her way with scarcely more mo-
tion than would be experienced in Long Island
Sound. The long Pacific rollers lazily following,
and even the flocks of goonies slowly circling
astern, seemed to express the spirit of the trop-
ics and bid us enjoy southern seas to the utmost.
Although not strong, the trades were almost ab-
solutely steady, and gave us an average of about
one hundred and fifty miles a day for the trip.

During the typhoon season the coast of Japan
is not a particularly inviting place for vessels of
any class, and when our log showed that we
were about two hundred miles from Yokohama,
the barometer beginning to fall rapidly with
constantly increasing wind and a heavy sea, we
thought it time to prepare for a warm reception
to the country. Evidently we were on the edge
of a revolving storm, the centre of which ap-
peared to be traveling rapidly along the coast.
Under short sail the Coronet was kept on her
course until nightfall, but the constantly and

DEEP-SEA YACHTING

rapidly falling barometer warned us that it would
be unwise to attempt to approach land until the
disturbance had passed. A storm at sea may be
a grand sight, but a little of it goes a long way,
and the grandeur of the fury of the elements did
not compensate for the prospect of being hove to
for three or four days within a hundred and fifty
miles of port. During the middle watch the
gale moderated, and at dawn we were able again
to make our course. The passing of the storm,
however, had left behind it a very heavy sea
which delayed our progress, and it was nearly
midnight of Sunday, the 2ist of June, when the
light on Mila Head which marks the entrance of
Yeddo Bay was sighted.

Yokohama pilots are an unknown quantity.
No response came to our repeated signals, and
we were obliged to navigate the channel unaided.
During the night we had our first introduction to
the methods of navigation employed by Japanese
fishermen. They sail their unwieldy junks with-
out lights and without the slightest regard for
the "rules of the road." Their immense square-
sail is an impenetrable wall between the helms-
man and anything which may be ahead of him.
A lookout is an unheard - of precaution, so it
was only by rare good fortune that we avoided
running down a number of them in the dark-
ness.

DEEP-SEA YACHTING

By ten o'clock on the morning of the 22d we
had covered the forty miles between Mila Head
and the breakwater which forms the harbor of
Yokohama, passed the quarantine officials, and
dropped anchor close to the magnificent United
States cruiser Olympia.

One of the most delightful experiences to the
yachtsman on summer cruises in home waters is
the harbor life in such ports as Bar Harbor, New-
port, and the other resorts of our eastern coast.
To many this social life is the highest ideal of
yachting, and were it eliminated, the chief charm
of the sport would be taken away. In foreign
ports such experiences are by no means lacking,
and are on the contrary far more interesting and
attractive than at home.

In such a country as Japan the government
is most friendly to Americans, and an American
yacht receives courtesies equal in almost every
respect to those granted to men-of-war. The
constant interchange of civilities with the offi-
cials of a country whose manners and customs
are so entirely different from our own is a source
of never failing interest, and the yachtsman's
welcome to the local yacht clubs of Oriental
ports is more hearty and sincere than seems to
be bestowed by nations which make greater
claims to yachting fame.

Yokohama is a favorite rendezvous for the

DEEP-SEA YACHTING

ships on the Asiatic station during the summer
months, and the most delightful memories of
the entire cruise are the friendships among the
officers of the Olympia, the Detroit, the York-
town, and other ships of the squadron. The time
has passed when an American need blush for his
country on meeting our naval vessels abroad.
The ships that carry the stars and stripes in the
Asiatic squadron are second to none, and the
officers are worthy successors to those who in
early days made American seamen famous the
world over.

Opportunities for cruising along the coast of
Japan are very limited. Particularly in summer,
the danger of typhoons and the absence of avail-
able harbors make it unsafe to take extended
cruises. A trip through the Inland Sea, how-
ever, is one which can safely be taken by any
yacht, and which no yachtsman visiting Japan
should miss. Owing to exceedingly poor trans-
portation, this remarkable combination of land
and sea has not received the attention it deserves
from writers on Japan. Among the Japanese, it
is considered one of the three principal sights
of the country. The steamers of the Pacific
Mail and other lines sail through a part of the
Sea on their regular trips, but the main ship
channel gives no idea of the quaint little har-
bors, charming scenery, and interesting out-of-

DEEP-SEA YACHTING

the-way places which can be visited, for the pre-
sent at least only by a yacht or specially char-
tered steamer. For a steam yacht there are no
difficulties of navigation to be overcome, and all
that is necessary is to obtain a pilot thoroughly
familiar with all parts of the Sea. A sailing
yacht, however, requires the constant attendance
of a tug in order to pass through the most beau-
tiful, but exceedingly narrow passages between
the islands. Even with such assistance, a sail-
ing vessel should not attempt to pass the narrow-
est straits, except at slack water. Many pas-
sages are less than one hundred yards wide,
through which the tide rushes at the rate of ten
knots and more.

Picturesque and perfectly sheltered harbors
are numerous. Some of the ports at which we
stopped had never been visited before by foreign-
ers, and the little remote fishing villages afforded
a splendid opportunity for studying Japanese
character, untouched by Western civilization.
The ten days spent in the Inland Sea were alto-
gether too short a time to explore its intricate
channels, and even to sail past the thousand
mountains and thickly wooded islands which
form a barrier to the Pacific and give the Sea its
name.

It is difficult to believe that the ocean north of
the fortieth parallel is the same old Pacific over

DEEP-SEA YACHTING

which we so peacefully sailed from Honolulu to
Yokohama. In the south the principal occupa-
tion was endeavoring to devise new balloon sails
to catch every breath of the light trades, while
on the return trip it was frequently a scramble
to lower all sail in the shortest possible time.
Instead of balloon canvas, the thought was to
see how small a rag could be shown to the gales.
The yachtsman who wishes to enlarge his experi-
ence and desires practice in handling his vessel
under all conditions of wind and weather should
cruise in the Pacific Ocean.

Leaving Yokohama the 2d of September took
us to sea at the worst time of year. On the
•day before sailing a severe typhoon had passed
up the coast, and three days later we encoun-
tered the edge of another which did immense
damage about two hundred miles northwest of
our position. It was, then, with a feeling of re-
lief that we found ourselves at the end of a
week's sailing beyond the reach of such unwel-
come visitors.

From a study of the chart, one is led to ex-
pect a current setting along the coast of Japan
and across the Pacific far greater in volume and
strength than the Gulf Stream of the North
Atlantic. The Kuroshio or Japan Current un-
doubtedly exists, but it would seem to be far
more frequently affected by the prevailing winds

DEEP-SEA YACHTING

than is the Gulf Stream. Directly in the sup-
posed centre of the stream where a current of
from one to three knots an hour was expected,
we were surprised to find by observation that
practically no help was received from this source.
Absence of this current was still more of a puz-
zle as we had experienced only westerly and
southwesterly winds, which should have increased
rather than retarded its force. The only plaus-
ible explanation to account for temporary ces-
sation of the Japan stream is that the typhoons
which had been very numerous during the
month of August had, on leaving the coast of
Japan, become strong northeast gales. This
theory was strengthened by our meeting a heavy
northeast swell lasting until after we had passed
the iSoth meridian. It had been our purpose on
leaving port to follow as closely as possible the
great circle track to San Francisco, and we were
fortunate in being able to make practically a per-
fect course the entire distance.

There was certainly no monotony in the sail-
ing. Frequently a whole sail breeze would begin
the day, increasing by night to a howling gale,
followed by a few hours of flat calm. In order to
realize our hope of making a reasonably rapid
trip, constant watching and active work on the
part of all hands were necessary, so that the
short and precious hours when it was possible to

DEEP-SEA YACHTING

drive the Coronet to her utmost should not be
wasted.

One gloomy, breezy morning, an immense
waterspout appeared less than two miles from us,
traveling toward the northwest. It was a grand
sight, but not a pleasant neighbor, and no one
regretted its final disappearance astern.

As we approached the coast of California, fog,
the sailor's worst enemy, shut in upon us. For
three days observations had been impossible, and
we were obliged to rely upon dead reckoning,
which although always kept with great care, at
this time received double attention.

At eight o'clock on the evening of the ist of
October, we judged our position to be about ten
miles to the westward of the Farallones light-
house ; and as the fog continued dense, hove to,
waiting for a more favorable chance to run for
the light. At midnight the fog " scaled up " a
little, and the Coronet was headed a true east
course. Scarcely an hour passed after getting
under way before we heard a whistle right ahead,
which soon proved to be the siren on the Faral-
lones.

The yachtsman who has never known the plea-
sure of making a light after a long and difficult
voyage has something to live for. Even the pro-
fessional seaman knows the exhilaration of the
moment, and the amateur may be pardoned if he

DEEP-SEA YACHTING xxxvii

too feels a thrill of pride and pleasure. The
wonders of the universe never seem so close and
real, as after a month at sea with nothing but
the sun and stars to mark one's path. By their
help we made within fifty miles of the shortest
possible course between Yokohama and San Fran-
cisco, covering the forty-six hundred miles in
thirty days.

After passing the light, fog settled again, and
the anchorage off San Francisco was reached by
aid of the numerous fog signals along the shores
of the Bay, after having caught only one glorious
glimpse of the Golden Gate.

In concluding this chapter on the strictly deep-
sea cruising of the Coronet, I cannot refrain
from urging yachtsmen in general, and those tak-
ing ocean trips in particular, to cooperate with the
Hydrographic Office in adding to our knowledge
of ocean currents, winds, and other phenomena of
the sea. Foreign nations recognize our Hydro-
graphic Office as a model for all countries, and its
high standard of excellence can only be main-
tained by the hearty assistance of all interested
in seafaring matters. The information which it
furnishes to mariners is of the greatest value,
and the daily observations upon which this infor-
mation is founded can easily be taken on any
properly equipped vessel. Our government is
most generous in its treatment of yachtsmen,

DEEP-SEA YACHTING

and it seems only proper that we should do every-
thing in our power when opportunity offers to
assist in placing the maritime affairs of the na-
tion on a basis truly representative of American
thought and American progress.

CORONA AND CORONET

CHAPTER I

THE CORONET

Swift flies the schooner careering beyond o'er the blue ;

Faint shows the furrow she leaves as she cleaves lightly through ;

Gay gleams the fluttering flag at her delicate mast —

Full swell the sails with the wind that is following fast.

Celia Thaxter.

Years ago, a prevalent style of tale possessed
never-failing interest, though causing continual
surprise to one small reader. Ordinarily the work
of English authors, some boy-hero was frequently
despatched to India, usually because of sudden
poverty or other disaster overtaking his relatives ;
and the impression given was that, next to death,
a journey to the antipodes was the most dismal
of fates.

While accepting the story-teller's point of view
so far as necessary in sympathizing with the sor-
rows of the leading family, I was always filled
with amazement that a journey to India could be
regarded as a calamity. I half wished I might
have been that youth setting off to seek his for-

CORONA AND CORONET

tune in far lands ; perhaps a faint foreshadowing
of a later time, when I should become an adjunct
to the family of an astronomer, one of whose
specialties should be interrogating a hidden sun.

Whatever the reason, strange journeys to re-
mote regions have always meant delight, and had
time been plenty, the peerless Coronet might
have had a passenger on her trip around the Horn,
instead of awaiting the entire party at San Fran-
cisco after this portion of her cruise was over.

Designed in large part by Captain Crosby, for
many years her sailing-master, as well as by
Messrs. Smith and Terry, she was built in 1885
by C. and R. Poillon, of Brooklyn, at a cost of
about ^70,000. At the time of the Japanese ex-
pedition the largest sailing yacht in the New York
Yacht Club, her finest record is in two consecu-
tive watches of sixty miles each, thus accomplish-
ing 120 miles in eight hours.

Although the actual dimensions of the yacht
are given by her owner anc captain, with a few
words as to her history, he has not described her
beauty, the elegance of her interior arrangement,
and the details of the race that opened her famous
career so brilliantly. The start was from an im-
aginary line off Owl's Head, Long Island, at
1. 10 P.M. of the i2thof March, 1886, the finish off
Roche's Point, Cork, Ireland. The Coronet occu-
pied 14 days, 19 hours, 3 minutes, and 14 seconds

THE CORONET

in the passage, winning the race by i day, 6
hours, 39 minutes, and 40 seconds, sailing 2905
miles ; while the Dauntless sailed 2957 miles, —
a fine race, always spoken of as " a glorious vic-
tory, an honorable defeat."

Immediately afterward her owner made a voy-
age around the world, the graceful yacht exciting
much admiration in all ports. At Honolulu,
King Kalakaua came on board, and in Yoko-
hama harbor she was visited by the Emperor,
who ordered at once for himself a boat exactly
like the Coronet's gig.

In October of 1893, she became the property
of Mr. D. Willis James and his son.

She is white, schooner-rigged, carrying every \
sort of sail, and as airy as a bird. It is not to be i
expected that any wandering breeze, however
light, could escape all her alluring opportunities
for usefulness in topsails, staysails, jibs, and raf-
fles, — and, indeed, when this cloud of canvas
is spread to a brisk wind, the Coronet is a thing
of beauty indescribable.

With gig and cutter stowed away forward for a
long voyage, a fine stretch of open deck still
remains, while, no room being wasted on en-
gines or coal bunkers below, all the space is
available for living quarters. Finished in carved
mahogany, the main saloon is about twenty feet
square. A piano and writing-desk, easy chairs

CORONA AND CORONET

and divans invite varying moods, bookcases are
filled with tempting volumes, and an open stove
of red tiles shows a glowing bed of coals in damp
or chilly weather.

Two large staterooms, also finished in mahog-
any, contain brass beds, furniture and walls of
one done in pink velvet, the other in satin bro-
cade. With four other rooms, each artistically
furnished, ten or twelve guests are luxuriously
accommodated.

A crew of ten men, a sailing-master and two
mates, a cook with two assistants, and two stew-
ards, the Coronet's freight of human beings on
many trips falls little short of thirty.

As she lay during the autumn of 1895 in
Tebo's Basin, South Brooklyn, all her possibilities
of beauty, speed, and grace latent, preparation for
her long voyage around the Horn went rapidly
forward. Rigid examination revealed a tiny spot
in the huge foremast. The imperfection, less
than an inch in diameter, hardly made an inden^
tation on the surface of this great timber, yet at
some crucial moment a sudden strain might come
upon just that spot. So a new and flawless mast
was substituted. No less minutely was inspec-
tion made of the whole vessel. New steel rig-
ging was provided, a thick coat of paint covered
the white deck for the voyage to San Francisco,
furniture was shrouded in linen, and heavier parts

THE CORONET

of eclipse apparatus already complete were care-
fully stowed below.

On the 5th of December, 1895, she left her
cosy winter quarters to breast the icy seas and
gales of a four months' voyage. In the southern
hemisphere summer weather would prevail, but
many days lay between the Narrows and that
genial region.

Her owner and his wife, the Astronomer and a
few guests went down the harbor on the yacht,
and, returning with the pilot, watched her lightly
skimming the wintry waters farther and farther
from sight, as early December twilight settled
over the tossing sea. Great faith is required in
the science of navigation, in the seaworthiness of
his craft, and the skill of his sailors, for a yachts-
man to entrust his dainty vessel to the mercy
of winds and waves during a voyage of fifteen
thousand miles.

Five days later the Coronet was sighted by the
steamship Braemer, nearly a thousand miles from
Sandy Hook, encountering heavy seas upon the
edge of a severe storm through which the Braemer
herself had come. Occasionally other vessels
were sighted, but they were not bound in direc-
tions for bringing news — and this was the only
report during the long voyage. So the winter
was passed, with reasonable certainty, but no
knowledge, that she was making her course safely.

CORONA AND CORONET

Considering the Coronet's sailing qualities and
former achievementa, this did not require an im-
possible exercise of philosophy. Once each week
her owner plotted her probable course and run
upon the chart, his faith supplying deficiencies
in actual news.

The Coronet's log during all these days is an
interesting record. Many fairly good runs are,
set down, but she encountered much rough
weather, frequently a " whole sail " breeze ; and
suggestive, even if painfully succinct accounts
are given of the various sorts of weather, vessels
sighted, gales coming on, guns taken below, all
sails reefed, and '* oil-bags got ready."

For Sunday, 9th February, 1896, off the coast
of Patagonia, the entry reads : " At midnight
wore ship on account of the sea. Ship burying
herself to the foremast, middle part. Called
all hands and reefed her down fore and aft, and
wore ship. Latter part much rain and blowing
hard in squalls."

Farther on are records of "Confused sea.
Rain. Hove to under the fore trysail. Got the
oil-bags over side, one from each cat-head, and
one in the main rigging."

On Thursday, 13th February, 1896, "Blow-
ing strong. Lying under reefed storm sails, and
oil-bags over the side, and an old Cape Horn
swell running. It seems as if the little Coronet

THE CORONET

would go end over end at times. But up to to-
day we have not lost a rope-yarn off the deck."

Two days before anchoring in the harbor of
San Francisco, a high, confused sea was still
running, and ** a good deal of tumbling aboard."
But she soon sailed triumphantly into port, cast-
ing anchor at Sausalito, headquarters of the local
yacht club.

CHAPTER II

PREPARATION

Pause not to dream of the future before us.

Osgood.

Professors of practical astronomy must always
invent. No mental graces or acquirements can
supersede a mechanical bent, whereby instru-
ments of whatever sort give joy and all tele-
scopes delight, merely in themselves, and quite
independently of their performance in bringing
heavenly bodies a few million miles nearer.

Since in this generation we cannot make sun
and moon stand still, lengthening of the precious
minutes of totality can be accomplished only in
two ways. One astronomer might take with him
ninety-nine others, each with telescope, camera,
spectroscope, or other bit of apparatus to ask his
own particular question of the calm corona as
it gleams against the silent darkness. Or one
astronomer could transport a hundred telescopes
and cameras, if only each could make its own
record. In the history of science thus far, eclipse
expeditions of one hundred human observers
have not materialized, although an attractive

•€

PREPARA TION

prospect to regions unheard of where such a mis-
sion might establish itself. But a composite ma-
chine is possible, by which a hundred instruments
are able to ask simultaneously a hundred differ-
ent questions of the corona automatically, while
one astronomer sets everything in motion, pla-
cing safe and implicit reliance in the precision of
his mechanism. Fortunately, too, machinery
has no nerves ; for in the past, impressiveness of
the scene at totality has been responsible for
many a lapse in executing well-rehearsed pro-
grammes.

While the Coronet was buffeting Cape Horn
swells and the great rollers of the Pacific, carry-
ing tubes and mountings, the Astronomer was
hard at work completing his invention in finer
detail, until satisfied that the prospective minutes
of total eclipse would be lengthened at least ten-
fold. Specifically, twenty telescopes and cameras
were to observe and set down at the same time,
all under electric supervision of one central me-
chanism ; and exact records of the unemotional
tool would be at hand after the eclipse was over,
well adapted to patient study at leisure.

So who could complain if tubes and valves and
pneumatic arrangements and object-glasses and
electric devices of every sort strewed the draw-
ing-room, and measured their innocent length on
every floor throughout the house ? The family

10 CORONA AND CORONET

of a professor of astronomy get thoroughly accus-
tomed to all such trifles, and learn to step cir-
cumspectly among polished brass and shining
specula, nor can they by any chance be surprised
at strange occupants of their desks and dressing-
tables.

The cardinal principle of this automatic device
is simple enough even for comprehension by the
unmechanical, as an astronomer's relatives are
too apt to be. Research on the corona has be-
come in these latter years mainly photographic ;
so that a multitude of telescopes and spectro-
scopes, if transformed virtually into cameras, are
thus able to collect their evidence simultaneously
and independently.

The idea that machinery could be made to ex-
ecute these motions, instead of separate persons,
first occurred to Professor Todd during his for-
mer expedition to Japan in 1887. The plan was
roughly carried out by native assistants at Shi-
rakawa, on the old castle donated by the Govern-
ment for his observing station. Although crude,
the separate mechanisms worked so well that he
developed the same theory more elaborately for
his next expedition — to West Africa in 1889.
Exhaust air currents through pneumatic tubes,
connected with each telescope and plate-holder,
were controlled by a slowly moving perforated
sheet of paper, similar to those now familiar in

PREPARATION

automatic musical instruments. Movements of
absolute precision allowed the exposure of over
three hundred plates during the period of to-
tality.

The apparatus proving somewhat bulky, elec-
tricity was made the controlling power when in
1895 plans were maturing for Yezo. Endless
chains of plate - holders of different sizes were
arranged to pass before each of the twenty tele-
scopes, at varying rates of speed. A copper
cylinder full of pins revolved slowly, each pin as
it passed along touching its appropriate metal
tooth, and closing a circuit that set in motion
some particular instrument at any prearranged
instant during the two minutes and forty seconds
while totality should prevail. A moderate calcu-
lation of its capacity showed that four hundred
pictures could be taken, the movement of each
exposing shutter and its corresponding plate-
chain being deliberate and precise.

That all these telescopes should remain con-
stantly pointed at the sun, even for two or three
minutes on this slowly whirling earth, farther
mechanism was necessary. Without a driving-
clock of some sort, any celestial object is speedily
out of the field of view, or off the plate. First,
all the telescopic cameras are rigidly attached to
one central frame, and this polar axis must itself
follow the sun in his apparent path through the

CORONA AND CORONET

sky, carrying with it all the instruments. A
sand-clock, used successfully in West Africa, was
thought again feasible. By this arrangement a
heavy weight resting upon a tube of sand slides
gently down, as the sand runs out below at a uni-
form rate, hour-glass fashion.

After duly experimenting, the Professor de-
cided reluctantly that the sand was not, after all,
sufficiently smooth for his purpose. Ultimately
a column of glycerine was substituted, to his
entire satisfaction.

Preparation for an attractive expedition has
one curious phase, — the variety of demands to
join it, a few delivered verbally, though chiefly
by letter. From every walk of life and all parts
of the country came insistent appKcations for
billets, possible and impossible ; each setting
forth in glowing terms the writer's especial quali-
fications. Every mail for many weeks brought
such letters, — a unique collection.

Certain aspects of scientific expeditions, too,
are not represented by clocks and lenses, nor the
critical selection of personnel. Apparatus did
not contain the whole winter's story. Seven
months' absence from one's native land means
many costumes. The rigor of our own northern
regions, and of the first days on the Pacific, the
tropic heat of Honolulu and Yokohama, the
memory of Japanese humidity (gloves had been

PREPARATION 13

sealed in Mason's jars to prevent moulding),
camping-out gowns for the eclipse station, full
dress for all kinds of entertaining in foreign and
always jovial ports — to provide for all these con-
tingencies may not have necessitated the quality
of brain for inventing twenty electric observers
of an eclipse ; but the problem was not entirely
simple, nor was the time too long to prepare for
conditions so varied. By the middle of March, a
focus was approaching. Tests of apparatus were
nearly complete. Crates and trunks and boxes
were in readiness ; and one hundred and seven-
teen days had passed since the Coronet left New
York. At last, on the first of April, the wel-
come telegram arrived — ** Coronet in San Fran-
cisco to-day. Can you start to-morrow ? "

The first stage of expedition travels began as
early bluebirds were singing their blithe spring
songs among the budding trees of the old college
town, and a long good-by was said to its classic
groves.

CHAPTER III

OVERLAND

Be Mercury, set feathers to thy heels,
And fly like thought.

Shakespeare, King jfohn, iv. 2.

A RADIANT Easter Sunday was followed by
heavy snow, submerging New York, when friends
collected at the Grand Central station to say
farewell that early Monday morning. Despite
gloomy skies roses filled our hands, the College
Glee Club gave the Amherst yell, and the long
journey began, with its sense of exquisite rest and
lack of responsibility after constant and fatiguing
preparation. Quick or careless movements, how-
ever, were indulged in with caution, from con-
sciousness of our precious surroundings, — lenses,
chronometers, photographic plates ad libitum.

At Rochester more expedition material ap-
peared ; and continually we were met, not only
by friends and well-wishers along the route, but
by waiting instruments. Awakened in the night
by a stop — arousing thought immediately con-
centrated upon " another telescope ! "

Mr. Hill, president of the Great Northern

OVERLAND 15

road, had generously reserved for our use his
own private car (" A i "), which at Chicago was
quickly filled with expedition possessions, and
the various members of the party sallied forth
for a day in the city. With the fall of windy
twilight more farewells, and pleasant last words
from the president of the World's Fair Commis-
sion, and the discoverer of the fifth satellite of
Jupiter.

There had been days of well-remembered plain
in crossing the continent by the Canadian Pa-
cific years before, but the mental effect was
somehow different from the impressive and illim-
itable levels of North Dakota and Montana.
Strange to weirdness and unutterably lonely,
snow often fell across the treeless wastes, no
trace of spring brightened the gray scene, and
twilights descended in ghostly fashion, as the
edge of the visible world softly faded.

Much of the landscape was merely clay, some-
times low, but menacing hills and ridges, fantas-
tic, waterworn, — miniature Gardens of the Gods
done in mud. Here and there paths and tracks
led to nothingness. In the Fort Peck Indian
reservation spiritless communities collected for
no apparent reason ; log huts encircled tepees
flying scarlet flags, and a brawny squaw, chop-
ping wood with vigorous strokes, was watched
with silent approval by a row of braves. Occa-

i6 CORONA AND CORONET

sionally a cowboy sped along, and companies of
Indians in vari-colored rags galloped about on
rough ponies from nowhere to nowhere. The
days were dull and cold like late November; a
ray of genial sunshine might have lighted these
infinite plains with almost cheerful life, mak-
ing swift shadows and gleams of brightness, but
under the sombre sky they were dead, impassive.
And still trails wandered off aimlessly, the wind
blew drearily, and the buttes or mud cliffs on the
horizon held out no promise beyond their hope-
less verge.

An exceedingly fine road-bed these level lands
afford the Great Northern, our luxuriously ap-
pointed car riding so smoothly that letters and
journals were brought surprisingly up to date,
and expedition work suffered no interruption.
Life went on with great cheerfulness, whatever
the outer scene. It was an early discovery that
the personnel of the expedition included con-
tralto and soprano voices, and that the General
and the Musician sang fine bass and tenor. With
an ample supply of glees, madrigals, and anthems,
many hours were spent in "reading," whose
effects might not have discredited a more sta-
tionary quartette. Half unconsciously, too, the
company studied one another, deciding that it
was a harmonious combination as well in ways
other than musical, and likely to remain so.

OVERLAND 17

One memorable morning, against a royal back-
ground of blue sky, peak after peak rose into
early dawn, deeply snow-covered, and inexpres-
sibly solemn in that silent land. To fall asleep
in a country of bare and limitless level, and to
awake amid primeval cedars, pines, and spruces,
rising straight and clear a hundred feet into
blue air, and white mountains so high that their
summits are invisible from car windows — how
thoroughly American the contrast of consecutive
days ! This radiantly sunny forenoon was spent
chiefly on the observation platform. Tumbling
Flathead River followed for miles, and one great
peak like the Matterhorn appeared and reap-
peared with superb effect, between the giant
shoulders of nearer hills.

The Kootenai River was a clear, green stream
with flashing white foam in its swifter shallows,
and our train, now far above on the mountain
side, perched on a high trestle, or shooting
through ten tunnels, was again close beside the
water, where an occasional fisherman or boatman
gave accent to a landscape never lonely, though
'^Imost untouched by human influence.

Spokane was approached over level regions
once more, beneath a sky like June, though great
evergreen forests continued, and the snow-covered
Rockies formed an edge and finish for the world.
^^ is a sunny city, fair and attractive, and the

i8 CORONA AND CORONET

country around was inundated with flowers, like
a brilliant sea of pink and yellow and purple blos-
soming. Over fertile fields, miles square, where
men were ploughing rich soil, the mountains
retreated into the east ; then train and plain
were covered by a cloud, while, more ethereal
in blue distance, snowy peaks caught sunlight
yet, like the veritable entrance to some celes-
tial region beyond imagining. Twilight came on
softly, mountains faded, and smooth gray blotted
out the world. But where sunset should have
been were streaks of pale yet bright apple-green
among the slate-colored clouds, — full of hope and
promise. At every stop the clear pipe of early
frogs filled the still evening.

Sharp contrast again with morning — we were
once more among white hills, and tall evergreens
straight and majestic, every branch heaped high
with feathery snow. In the utter silence and dim
air the falling flakes could almost be heard.
Thoughtful railway officials had sidetracked our
car at Cascade Tunnel over night, to await a
special engine sent to take us over the " Switch-
back " by daylight. This pass is more than four
thousand feet in elevation, and the road zigzags
backward and forward until from the summit
one may look down upon loop after loop below,
each at a difierent level. Steep as were the
mountain sides, yet evergreens clothed them with

OVERLAND 19

beauty to the very peaks, now lost in drifting
whiteness. But snow covering is not perma-
nent, nor are there glaciers, as in the British
Rockies.

A little hamlet of half a dozen houses lay nine
hundred feet below, with no apparent way out.
Shut in on every side by steep mountains and
heavy forest, Wellington's horizon is seemingly
halfway zenithward.

Spring snowslides not infrequently fall across
the track, when rotary snow-ploughs come to the
rescue. At Wellington, word having just been
brought that a train somewhere in the mountains
needed release, the expedition was invited to see
the "rotary" in vigorous operation, throwing ice
and snow far down the gulch, and clearing the
track speedily and effectively.

All the peaceful Sunday was spent at Welling-
ton. A walk along the track in the utter
solitude brought overpowering consciousness of
the close immensity of those impenetrable
heights. Silence was insistent. Faint murmur
from a muffled brook in the valley below and an
occasional bird-song, wild and sweet, drifting
down into the white day from some unknown
elevation, only intensified the profoundly solemn
quiet.

Toward twilight the storm abated, allowing a
view of the paths of former avalanches straight

CORONA AND CORONET

down mountain sides where tallest trees had
been torn away like shrubs, — narrow white
tracks through the forest. Approaching night
filled the deep valley brimful of purple shadow ;
the air grew warmer, trickling streams from
overhanging drifts added a sound of rushing
waters. Lights flickered picturesquely from a
train a few miles up the mountain, and a whistle
now and then came down from the heights.

The Skykomish River escorted the expedition
through breakfast, among blossoming fruit trees
to the shores of lovely Puget Sound, — green
water touched with white caps, and rocky shores
skirted with familiar evergreens like the coast of
Maine. Beneath many-shaded gray clouds the
radiant Olympian Mountains shone forth fitfully,
white and high, occasionally gleaming in brilliant
sunshine, sparkling gates of some Paradise of
Peace.

Seattle is nobly situated on successive terraces
above the Sound, the Olympian and Cascade
ranges in plain sight ; beautiful Mount Baker
and lofty Rainier. But mist and rain are over-
fond of hiding this unparalleled scenery. Crim-
son wild currant was everywhere in blossom, and
the wall-flower ; lawns were smoothly green, and
English ivy covered many dwellings with its dig-
nifying touch. Still unfinished, the city abounds
in possibilities.

OVERLAND

Friends were here also, and loyal Amherst
graduates ; but from New York to San Francisco
newspaper reporters were omnipresent. Our in-
stant arrival in every city was greeted by papers
containing "full accounts " of the expedition, with
ghastly portraits as well, dark and sinister, less
like a peaceful body of innocent scientists than
some band of outlaws bound for gore and gold.
With each new stop more reporters scrambled
for more material for still other " stories." But at
the precise moment when pads and pencils were
hopefully brought forth, the Captain, the Pro-
fessor, even the amiable Doctor and General, by
a series of curious coincidences, had immediately
pressing business at some distant point. Others
in the party seemed to melt away imperceptibly,
and it so often devolved upon the present his-
torian, deserted by her allies, to sustain the con-
versation on these somewhat trying occasions,
that she became expert to a melancholy degree
in answering questions about the plans, objects,
incidents, and personnel of the party.

Often these interviews were prettily embroid-
ered by the active imaginations reproducing
them. One paper announced that the Coronet
was now awaiting her guests, having just arrived
at San Francisco from New York **via the
Isthmus." Another stated that "Mr. James is
the fourth owner of the Coronet, she having had

22 CORONA AND CORONET

three before him." Still another, confusing a
dignified scientific expedition with a party of
Dunkards simultaneously en route^ described our
company as composed largely of women and
children under the care of a spiritual adviser,
hearty and healthy in appearance, wearing peace-
ful and happy expressions, and on our way to
form a community in the wilderness, where our
own forms of religious beUef might be practiced
without hindrance.

Memory of Portland is a happy blending —
friends, beautiful drives, parks luxuriant with
blossoming trillium and dogwood. At evening
our little drawing-room was yet again heaped
^yith roses, while once more a hearty Amherst
cheer gave genial speed to parting guests.

Southward from Portland, Shasta is unmistak-
able king of all the great brotherhood. Inter-
mittent snowstorms swept across, white clouds
clung airily to his crown. Sunset light turned
the snowdrifts rosy pink, like Mont Blanc from
Chamounix.

Darkness brought the last evening on board
the "A I," and our affection for this delightful
ten days' home was "done into rhyme" by
Chief, whose ready gift at occasional verse was
afterward in frequent demand : —

OVERLAND 23

Valedictory Lines to "A i."

You have carried us many a mile, " A i,"

From the rising, away to the setting sun ;

O'er mountain and plain have we sped along,

With mirthful story and joyous song.

A happy crowd, without one " scrap,"

Save that gotten up by the newspaper chap.

For you we 've ploughed snow, and filled your tanks,

And made you the scene of schoolboy pranks —

And you 've filled our tanks, from many a plate

Placed by Lizzie and Charlie and Alfred " the great."

In fact you 're an A i car throughout,

And you know what you have on board, no doubt —

"Where beauty and science and finance meet,

With " gyroscuti " as yet incomplete,

To eclipse all things that get in the way,

And at last to knock out Sol's dying ray.

But the rhjrmester grows sad as the time draws near

For parting — but then we shall reappear

On ocean's wave, and there 's less regret

As we think of the cruise of the Coronet

CHAPTER IV

SAUSALITO

Then is all safe, the anchor 's in the port.

Shakespeare, Titus A ndronicus, iv.

Where was the Coronet ? How would she
look after her second voyage around Cape Horn ?
Every member of the expedition felt as vital an
interest in a first sight of the fair craft as even
her owner himself.

Nothing was seen of her on the way from
Oakland across the bay ; but at the wharf in San
Francisco we were met by her sailing-master,
Captain Crosby, and Frank Thompson, a young
man who had charge of the instruments on the
voyage. Both were brown and beaming after
the four months' trip. Their report showed the
Coronet still living up to her reputation for speed
and seaworthiness. No accident had marred
her record, the apparatus came in perfect condi-
tion, and she lay at Sausalito, a half-hour's ferry
trip from the city, among the craft of the San
Francisco Yacht Club.

Though intended solely as a pleasure yacht,
the Coronet was found to offer unexpected gener-

SAUSALITO 25

osity in space for stowing securely any farther
amount of scientific paraphernalia. The more
delicate bits of mechanism brought overland were
soon safely packed on board, additional necessi-
ties being bought in San Francisco to avoid
transportation from New York.

Weeks might have been filled solely with plans
of hospitable friends for entertaining the expe-
dition, and many invitations were accepted be-
tween visits to scientific headquarters and the
adjustment of unaccustomed but graciously re-
ceived cargo. It was a busy time.

Built up from the water, clinging to a steep
hillside and embowered in foliage and blossom-
ing roses, Sausalito possesses singular charm.
From the narrow village street along the bay,
steps innumerable lead upward past roofs of
houses, past another tier of dwellings, to merge
themselves in a gravel walk, still steeply ascend-
ing. Overhung by luxuriant trees and flowering
shrubs, the " El Monte " was finally reached.

Not yet in entire readiness for her guests, the
Coronet allowed them to gather for a few days at
that little inn, — a place so distinctly foreign and
picturesque that a shock of surprise always ac-
companied the unexpected sound of spoken Eng-
lish. A beautiful prospect rewarded the climb.
Yachts lay at anchor in the bay, six or eight
trading vessels and the Coast Survey steam-

26 CORONA AND CORONET

ship MacArthur, while beyond, villages nestled
at the bases of hills, at this season green to their
summits.

A tropic richness of vegetation covered the
whole region, like one well-remembered June at
Glengarriff. In San Rafael and other villages
near Sausalito verandas were hidden in roses,
the ** beauty of Glazenwood" especially conspicu-
ous in buff blossoming with shell-pink edges.
Live oaks and the green bay, eucalyptus and
sequoia filled the landscape, with palms and
evergreens. Roses climbed often over high
trees, hanging delicate blossoms from the top-
most branches, a tangle of riotous flowering.
Driving over the fine roads, Mount Tamalpais is
nobly conspicuous.

Gradually ship's stores were sent on board,
instrument -packing completed, the protecting
paint holy-stoned off the deck, and staterooms
put in sailing order. That assigned to the As-
tronomer and his companion was charmingly
upholstered, both walls and furniture in rose-
colored velvet. What feminine heart would not
expand with gratified decorative sense, at the
thought of thus voyaging daintily over the blue
Pacific } Not unhappily I contemplated my
modest store of silver wherewith to adorn the
dressing-table in port, and a luxury or two planned
for certain corners.

SAUSALITO 27

But the Professor's decorative instincts, while
even keener than those of his household, — often,
indeed, bringing original suggestions to bear
upon the home habitation, — always take second-
ary place whenever touching the confines of
scientific pursuit. Several improvements, there-
fore, of a technical and not wholly aesthetic char-
acter had soon despoiled the pretty pink room.

Raising the brass bedstead allowed nine deep
drawers beneath, most useful during all the long
trip. Two bookcases were fastened on the walls,
and a case of twelve small drawers for lenses and
eyepieces, plates and mirrors. A little curved
sofa was also elevated in station, that under it a
long box of like shape might be inserted, — in-
valuable for gowns and dress-suits all summer.
A tall but sufficiently inoffensive wardrobe was
made fast beside the closet.

It was all very snug and comfortable, with
ample space for everything needed during seven
months ; but the stewards looked on with de-
spairing eyes as more and yet more of the rose-
colored velvet walls disappeared ; and suspended
telescopes were ornaments novel to the Coronet.
Against the few inches of uncovered wall the
Astronomer's protesting associate humbly tacked
one or two portraits of her ancestors, her de-
scendant, and certain home scenes, and thought
her troubles over.

28 CORONA AND CORONET

But shortly before sailing, the scientific head
of the expedition appeared on board with a large
mahogany case in which ticked loudly a sidereal
break-circuit chronometer, which he calmly pro-
ceeded to screw to the dressing-table top, last
rallying-point for dainty belongings. Descendant
of two generations of astronomers and companion
of a third, however, submissive attitudes of mind
were inborn, so I smilingly assented to it all,
even promising to wind that chronometer should
such service become requisite by stress of circum-
stance. Though no longer a bower, the room
was a sort of scientific emporium, the precious
lenses had each its little drawer, and everything
was in comfortable readiness.

A magnificent storm came up just before sail-
ing. A wild gale beat the bay into white-caps,
and set all the yachts dancing. Communication
with shore was for several hours cut off ; and
even when the bay subsided into quiet, the sea
outside still heaved tumultuously.

Just after luncheon and dozens of good-bys, on
the 25th April, the Coronet sailed off, amid dip-
ping flags and booming cannon, our own pen-
nants flying, our farewell salutes waking Sausa-
iito echoes. Out through the Golden Gate,
across the bar (showing as a distinct line between
pure blue of ocean depths and greenish, muddy
waters of the bay), and into the broad Pacific the

SAUSALIl^O 29

Coronet tossed, where rear-guards of the storm
still played with breaking white-caps out to a far
horizon.

Finally the Bonita, which had accompanied us
for a few miles to convey back to the city our
pilot, a guest or two, and a dozen hastily written
notes of farewell, changed her course ; there was
a last glimpse of a fast-receding shore ; the Faral-
lones were passed, and the expedition was left to
itself in a wide waste of waters, with the Coronet
for our two weeks' cosmos.

" Then the sun sank, and all the ways grew dark."

CHAPTER V

FIFTEEN DAYS AT SEA

Joyfully to the breeze royal Odysseus spread his sail, and with his rudder
skillfully he steered from where he sat. No sleep fell on his eyelids as he
gazed upon the Pleiads, on Bootes, setting late, and on the Bear that men call
too the Wain, which turns around one spot, watching Orion, and alone dips
not in the ocean stream.

Odyssey, v. 270 (Palmer's Trans.)

The blue Pacific undulated gently, fair and
sparkling ; the voyagers lay lazily in steamer-
chairs, with the deck gleaming white, brasses
scintillating in the sun, white sails rounded with
the wind, and motion just airy enough to exhila-
rate. In the shrill yet not unmelodious whistle
of brown " goonies '* ^ during these soft, bright
May days at sea, could be heard potentially songs
of orioles and bluebirds in New England orchards.
Life lay dreaming in sunshine.

No throbbing engine stirred the heart of the
pretty craft with restless pain and hot discontent,

1 Great brown albatross always soaring round the Coronet
when there was any breeze, and only rarely flapping their wings ;
but usually resting on the water when we were becalmed, pad-
dling duck-like at the stern, and unable to rise except with
much exertion, at first getting under way by running on the
smooth water with extended wings.

FIFTEEN DAYS AT SEA 31

but "quivering in the joy of her wings" she
spread them like a bird to skim waves she
scorned to plough through, tossing them off in
foam from her bow.

Already I had twice crossed the Pacific Ocean
by steam, yet its magnificent immensity was
almost unappreciated until this voyage in a sail-
ing vessel. Distance, if not annihilated, is at
least mastered by latter-day triumphs of steam ;
but an indescribable charm lies in leisurely
traversing enormous ocean spaces, dependent
wholly upon the wind's sweet will ; and when
breezes depart, lying idly upon a glassy sea with
sails hanging limp, a friendly sun flooding the
decks with warm radiance, and a sky of softest,
deepest blue brooding close above, affords one of
the conditions yet remaining in this swift cen-
tury when time seems of no value, and may be
defied with impunity. As a rule, the Coronet
voyagers were good sailors. Chief, an experi-
enced naval officer, enlivened each meal with new
and thrilling stories, and one of his inventions
was a boon to the company, — a chess-board of
ribbons woven upon a cushion, with pins in the
bottom of the pieces to insure stability whatever
the slope of the deck. Chief and Mrs. Captain,
the Doctor and General soon became conspicu-
ous experts, and many were the hours absorbed
in this game.

32 CORONA AND CORONET

Two or three days out a huge four-master
loomed up superbly in the south, probably from
Australia, sweeping on toward San Francisco.

Winds for a time were fitful, occasionally
dying down to a flat calm. In lieu of any-
thing more startling on these quiet days, the loss'
of a baseball overboard was brought into that
category of noteworthy incidents. Twenty-three
other balls below, provided against just such a
catastrophe, were not enough to prevent an order
to lower the dinghy, obeyed as promptly and
with as perfect discipline as if the call had been
"man overboard." Two officers speedily rescued
the tossing white speck, the one lone object on
the wide Pacific. But it had first to pass a care-
ful scrutiny and much unsatisfactory pecking on
the part of several inquisitive goonies.

A taste of brisker motion in the prevailing
quiet fascinated another passenger to embark in
the little boat, which then rowed off to a suitable
distance for photographing the beautiful yacht.
The sensation was unique enough for the risk of
a genuine peril, — the whole Pacific Ocean with
its broad and glassy rollers, a sense of immens-
ity unparalleled, and the tiny dinghy, hardly an
incident on its surface, our sole means of possible
connection with the rest of the world.

These odd goonies were endlessly entertaining;
Hundreds, even thousands of miles they flew

FIFTEEN DAYS AT SEA 3^

over the waste of waters. Always voracious,
they were easily tricked by trailing cork and
fishhook baited with a bit of meat. The hook
merely caught in their strong, curved bills, and
they were hauled over the rail entirely unhurt,
though always surprised at their sudden change
of environment. Much flapping and screaming
accompanied this operation, but once their web
feet were set upon the deck, the birds were too
heavy and awkward to fly back over the low
rail ; so they reeled about helplessly, or squatted
flat on the white boards, occasionally spreading
their wings, which fold curiously in angular sec-
tions. Weighing usually six or seven pounds,
these albatross measured more than seven feet
from tip to tip. When approached they ob-
jected audibly, snapping their bills with a sharp
click. A purple and white ribbon was tied
around the neck of one, which may yet be roam-
ing the wide Pacific decorated with Amherst's
colors.

Goonies were not our only visitors. One
morning a tiny octopus, an unwilling caller, was
washed on deck by a heavy sea and stranded.
His head was surrounded by tentacles ending in
suckers, — eight legs and two long feelers. He
had a sort of bill like a parrot's, hard and sharp,
and large weird eyes ; perhaps a miniature edition
of a famous character in " The Toilers of the

34 CORONA AND CORONET

Sea." Sometimes, too, the brilliant flying-fish
found themselves unexpectedly landed on deck, —
bird-like and beautiful creatures, whose misfor-
tune I deplored. A tiny Portuguese man-of-war
was washed on board one day, a fairy bark less
than an inch long, and full of shifting tints of
blue.

For several days, in a region between the
tumultuous winds off California and the steady
trades farther south, light breeze or calm pre-
vailed, tempting our men to a plunge overboard
for an ante-breakfast swim. But a shark seen
from time to time caused this exhilaration to
degenerate into sunrise bucket-baths on deck,
primitive shower baths with sailors for mech-
anism.

On Sundays everybody appeared in fresh white
duck, and service was read in the cabin, a number
of the crew being always in attendance, and add-
ing their lusty voices in the tunes. "Eternal
father, strong to save," that magnificent hymn for
the sea, was a favorite feature.

One fair, sweet Sunday,

** So cool, so calm, so bright,"

a veritable

" bridall of the " sea " and skie,"

a breeze crept gently over the water, sails
swelled hopefully — trade winds had begun. The

FIFTEEN DAYS AT SEA 35

great squaresail was set ; stronger and more
steady grew the wind to a full twelve -knot
breeze, and for several days the Coronet fairly
hissed through the water. The yacht deck is so
much nearer the waves than that of a steamer
that her speed, especially in darkness, seemed
prodigious, as phosphorescent foam flew along-
side, and a luminous wake trailed astern. Great
following seas chased us, sometimes breaking
lightly over the beam, but in the main slipping
harmlessly beneath ; the graceful craft, without a
word of protest, sliding up to the crest, to float
down hill again like a white seabird.

Except in rough weather, expedition work
went constantly forward. As one delicate piece
of mechanism after another was completed, all
were brought for safe keeping to the once pink
stateroom, and hung or nailed or triced up in
every available spot. If one of its occupants
chanced to throw out her hand carelessly in the
abandon of dreams in the middle of the night, it
was no uncommon occurrence to hit some per-
fected bit of apparatus and so set it off, to spin
accurately through all the movements of picture-
taking on its own account, or of evolutions
which the half aroused sleeper dared not inter-
rupt. Truly, science acquaints us with strange
bedfellows.

The saloon was daily the scene of unwonted

36 CORONA AND CORONET

activity. Doldrums had been passed, actually and
metaphorically. Chief and Mrs. Captain spent
sunny hours in fabricating small holders for
endless plate chains ; the Mechanician covered
the big table below with mysterious devices in
copper and steel, and the Musician experimented
with different sorts of photographic baths. Such
work as could be done on deck was always carried
there ; and by the time for afternoon tea, always
served above, the entire party was generally
ready to assemble on rugs and cushions in shadow
of the mainsail, for an hour's listening before
dinner to some entertaining book. The Coro-
net's library, full and carefully selected, had been
increased for this voyage by friends and publish-
ers until every taste might suit itself.

Exercise, too, was not neglected, and with
more than eighty feet of clear deck, the number
of laps necessary to complete the pedestrian's
mile were often accomplished, and all sorts of
hand over hand feats on taut halyards were
performed, to the edification of the less ath-
letic.

The picturesque habit of singing shanties ^
while hoisting the mainsail is still preserved
among sailors on the Pacific. Finding that this

1 The word, coming undoubtedly from the French chanter^ .
has been perverted by unknown evolution to its present use and
form.

EXPEDITION WORK ON BOARD

FIFTEEN DAYS AT SEA

ancient though fast dying custom was thoroughly-
appreciated, our sailors gave many specimens,
the mate singing a first-line solo, joined by the
rest in a chorus following. With an accom-
paniment of such rhythm the big sail steadily
ascended. An exceedingly interesting custom,
with the peculiar hitch in the average sailor's
voice, it is a performance not to be forgotten.

A number of these melodies became familiar,
but the words were apt to vary with the solo-
ist's ability to adapt current events to necessary
metre. Versions in honor of the Coronet unfail-
ingly brought a full audience. One of the most
popular, with several sets of words, ran : —

&^:

3tt

■z^

i\-.

W-

:i=p:

itat

3t3t

1 Yankee ship comes down the river, blow, boys, blow.

The Yankee ship comes down the river, blow, boys, bully
boys, blow !

2 How d' ye know she 's a Yankee liner ? Blow, boys, blow, etc.

3 Stars and stripes, and spangled banner.

4 What d' ye think of the Captain of her }

5 John L. Sullivan, Boston slugger.

6 W^hat d' ye think of the chief mate of her ?

7 Charlie Mitchell, English bluffer,

8 What d' ye think they had for dinner }

9 Monkey's heart, and donkey's liver.

CORONA AND CORONET

10 Do yer know she 's a Havre packet ?

1 1 How d' yer know she 's a Havre packet ?

12 When she fires a gun, you hear the racket.

"Blow the
favorite : —

man down " was also a great

^^^^i^i^

1 Oh, we are the sailors to join the Black Ball, uwa, wa, blow

the man down.
Oh, we are the sailors to join the Black Ball,
Give us some time to blow the man down.

2 When Black Ball sailor get clear of the land, —

he has a variety of experiences emphatic rather
than elegant.

With temperatures constantly warmer came
evenings on deck, sometimes with informal lec-
tures on astronomy illustrated by constellations
conveniently at hand — or again quartettes sung
by the light of swinging lanterns.

One of the company, whose energy needed
some vent, planned a small paper, called the
" Coronet Saturday Evening News," to which the
reluctant company contributed articles, grave or
gay, current or historic, — its society column
especially brilliant, — and poems of much grace.

FIFTEEN DAYS AT SEA 39

Though without cheerful submission to this draft
upon intellectual resources, reading of the first
number was greeted with much applause — from
the contributors. In default of a press on board,
transcription of this interesting sheet devolved
upon the editor, who spent her entire day in
the operation. Volume I. number i, therefore,
comprises the whole edition of this unique publi-
cation.

After the advent of the trades, daily runs
averaged high : one triumphant noon record was
two hundred and fifty-three miles ; and night after
night was full of the creak of woodwork and
straining sails as the great boom tugged at the
main sheets, and an occasional sea swirled along
decks when the bow dipped into some watery
mountain.

Toward the end of the second week, society
around the yacht was increased by the advent of
beautiful white birds, nautically named sea-hawks.
Mother Carey's chickens, too, arrived, and mar-
linespikes with their two long tail-feathers. Even
the goonies adopted fuller dress, now appearing
with white bands around neck and tail. Over
a brilliant blue and restless ocean, covered with
flashing whitecaps, the Coronet was rapidly near-
ing Honolulu.

One big sailor developed a remarkable gift at
telling astonishing tales without a shadow of

40 CORONA AND CORONET

foundation. Various members of our party often
went forward to experience the enlivening influ-
ence of his talent for relating hypothetical inci-
dents truly marvelous. Usually Big Jim's yarns
were re-spun upon the quarter-deck.

Colossal drawn-work upon canvas in a vari-
ety of patterns was made a sort of leisure-hour
occupation for the sailors, and afterward used in
port to ornament the starboard gangway.

Another beautiful Sunday morning dawned,
and with it a dim suggestion of cliffs and moun-
tains on the far horizon. Off the port bow this
faint shadow grew more distinct, until the barren
slopes of Molokai came clearly into view, cut by
enormous clefts, and streaked with tumbling cas-
cades. Soon after Oahu, on which Honolulu is
situated, rose above the waves, its rough, volcanic
mountains sharply abrupt, and a little later dash-
ing surf was discerned. As the Signal Station
on Diamond Head came into view, we ran up
four flags, K D J B, meaning "Coronet, New
York."

A gorgeous sunset was flooding the world as
this bit of official introduction took place. Great
cumulus thunder heads were edged with daz-
zling gold ; from a rift above, sun rays streamed
over the rough peaks of Oahu and the uneasy
sea like a huge inverted halo. Gradually the
whole sky grew yellower, until everything was

FIFTEEN DAYS AT SEA 41

bathed in liquid gold ; then the clouds broke
into shreds, and the glory of the Lord came down
and brooded over the waters.

Lights in Honolulu flashed out with darkness,
one by one, and after the wide wastes of over
two thousand miles of the lonely Pacific, it was
friendly and homelike to know of other human
beings near by, even on a remote cluster of ocean
islands. Blue fire was burned for a pilot, who
speedily responded with a tug, whose whistle that
quiet Sunday evening announced our arrival to
the city, already some days on the lookout for the
Coronet.

Soon in warm, semi-tropical darkness, we were
anchored in the narrow bay, with nothing of
Honolulu apparent except twinkling lights and
a dim mountain background, sharply serrated
against the starlit sky.

CHAPTER VI

LIFE IN HONOLULU

The poetry of earth is never dead.

Keats.

** Pass the first shower and turn to the right "
— so runs the answer to inquiring strangers, de-
sirous of reaching any given point in Honolulu.

But the rain seems to have a curiously unwet-
ting character, like the swift downpours in sunny
Bermuda ; or else it possesses some attractive
quality sufficient to counteract any unpleasant
moisture. Nature behaves as if uncertain whether
she is shining or showering, both rider and
pedestrian sharing her indecision.

A fascinating city is Honolulu, embowered in
tropical foliage fairly smothered in riotous vines,
chasing one another in reckless race of crimson
and golden and purple blossoming to the very
tops of trees and buildings. Solid masses of
color dangle high in air, and groups of Japa-
nese and Chinese give a certain oriental effect to
its thoroughfares. Native Hawaiians, the women
in the prevailing white holoku^ or unadorned
" Mother Hubbard," throng the streets, and with

LIFE IN HONOLULU

some admixture of foreign blood are often hand-
some.

Architecture is simple and inoffensive, dwell-
ings retreating behind wide verandas, so shaded
by verdure that their modest lines are quite hid-
den. Portuguese houses may always be recog-
nized by their attendant goat, grapevine, and
tiny, naked baby. The rocks, chiefly volcanic,
are too porous for building material, most of the
native woods are too hard, and though a few
edifices of a sort of coral conglomerate may be
seen among occasional grass huts of natives,
speaking generally houses are brought as timber
from Oregon or Washington.

After mid-ocean coolness, the heat was notice-
able, and at breakfast cream and fresh fruits ap-
peared ; while artistic water-jars, red " monkeys '*
of various shapes, adorned the sideboard. The
awning was made fast over the quarter-deck, and
staterooms were put into port order; even the
obtrusive chronometer was taken on shore for
rating, though telescopes still continued to adorn
the once rose-colored room.

Paradise indeed, — the bits of coral and vol-
canic loveliness are rightly named. Lapped by
gentle surf from the blue Pacific, fanned by
trade-winds which steal away its fierceness from
southern sunshine, singularly free from damp-
ness, the islands are bathed in an ineffable glow

44 CORONA AND CORONET

of dreamy terrestrial atmosphere no less than in
a certain poetic aroma left from the old, half-
barbaric yet charming life of long ago.

Although the wonderful cloaks and helmets of
yellow feathers once worn by royalty are now
seen only in museums, there is even yet a sug-
gestive national picturesqueness. Men lounging
about wharves and corners wear hat-bands and
decorations of peacock feathers, and chains {leis
in the native language) of brilliant flowers about
their necks. At a moment's notice any chance
group can take up guitars or the little ukulele^
playing and singing together in delightful har-
mony the half -plaintive and wholly sweet Ha-
waiian airs, with soft words like running water.
A limp language, chiefly liquids and vowels,
it is peculiarly suited to music. When the lin-
guistic brook flows over a sharp pebble, usually
a "k," it is for an instant broken into pretty rip-
ples and flashes of sound, but it soon glides on-
ward again, smooth and unruffled.

Society is distinctly American — constantly
more so. American money is current, schools
are founded upon our system, text-books pub-
lished in the United States are used, and instruc-
tion is almost wholly in English. Recognized
as the vernacular in 1876, it became compulsory
in the schools ; but even in earlier days it was
studied by all high-class Hawaiians.

LIFE IN HONOLULU 45

Uneasy political elements abounded. Royal-
ists still hoped hopelessly for ** restoration " and
a limited monarchy, with its accompaniment of
pleasant and characteristic court life ; others
looked for the return, as sovereign, of the popu-
lar princess Kaiulani, then in Europe, her cabi-
net composed of the best American element — a
sort of amiable compromise. But as a rule the
influential inhabitants earnestly desired annexa-
tion to the United States as a practical solution
of vexed questions agitating the little republic.
Since that hope long deferred is now, happily, an
accomplished fact, their joy can almost be felt,
meeting our cordial hand-clasp across the leagues
of land and sea.

President Dole's charming manner, tactful ad-
ministration, and personal popularity had appar-
ently laid for a time the restless ghosts of politi-
cal disquiet, but it was a period of waiting only.
Effervescence seethed below the surface lull, and
island politics were too complicated for easy dis-
entanglement. To all our band of voyagers it
seemed incredible that the powers at Washington
should delay annexation of the fair islands, in gen-
eral so ardently wishing it, so American in their
development, with their wealth in sugar, in coffee,
and in fruits, their persuasive climate, their end-
less possibilities. Almost from the moment of
landing it seemed that the stars and stripes

46 CORONA AND CORONET

must soon float unchallenged from Government
House. That and all the other public offices and
residences were duly pointed out ; all very much
resembling sub-tropical edifices elsewhere in the
world, but it hardly seemed to matter what any-
thing was for, or who lived under any especial
roof, when all over the city was such a rush of
bloom and verdure, a commingling of delicious
odors and flickering sun and shade from over-
arching palms and banyans.

Picnic making in Honolulu is a fine art. Open-
air entertaining is constant. A lawn tea one
evening at Waikiki, a suburb of the city, is still a
sort of fairy memory. A low, verandaed house,
far back among sheltering trees and vines, showed
welcoming faces to the arriving guests, who were
conducted to a sort of outdoor drawing - room
{lanai)j open on three sides to an enchanting
garden close to the sea. Lapping gently against
the white beach, summer ripples almost reached
the algarobas in the sand, whose feathery foli-
age threw delicate shadows from the western
sun. On the grass, light tables stood about, each
with a bowl of plumeria or other characteristic
flower; a larger table at one side was covered
with bright lets, fragrant coffee and dainty re-
freshment. One of our hostesses had been an
old friend in Washington, years before, when her
husband was Hawaiian minister to the United

LIFE IN HONOLULU 47

States. Strolling or sitting in groups under the
trees, with leis (bright flowers for the ladies, a
sort of green laurel for the men) thrown over
their shoulders, the guests were served by softly
stepping Japanese maids.

Toward the city tall cocoanut palms stood out
on a point of land in silhouette against the yel-
low sunset. On the other side rose Diamond
Head, bleak, barren, impressive in the purpling
east. As twilight crept onward, Japanese lan-
terns began to gleam here and there among the
shrubbery ; but no trace of chill or dampness
touched the air, and on the darkening sea hori-
zon the southern cross burned in white splendor.

A quintette of native musicians sat in shadow,
playing the tikuleley a banjo, two guitars, and a
taropatch, occasionally singing Hawaiian melo-
dies full of surface gayety and lightsome rhythm,
yet soon revealing an unsuspected undercurrent
of deepest pathos. To the ghding music two
or three friends, for our edification, danced na-
tive figures on the grass — strange and graceful.
All danced for a time in the drawing-room, but
the dim lawn, the sweet, haunting music, and the
lapping waves cast an unresisted spell, and the
company soon drifted out under the algarobas.

Late in the summer night a happy party drove
back to the city, and were rowed out to the
Coronet at her anchorage in the dusky harbor.

48 CORONA AND CORONET

Valleys are numberless, an especial charm of
the islands. There picnics most abound. One
fair, fresh day we rode on horseback through the
city and up Manoa Valley ; leaving the horses
at a Chinaman's domain, a short walk through
banana groves brought us to a rushing stream,
whose banks, thickly covered with rich vegeta-
tion, rose steeply against the blue sky, seclud-
ing the little camping-ground. Distant hillsides
were exquisite with bluish-green atmosphere and
caressing sunshine.

Picnics in other environment than valleys were
no less lovely — on famous beaches where we
first had surf-baths in a rainbow-tinted sea, after-
ward sitting upon the grass for luncheon on
closely woven native mats, the making of which
is almost a lost art. Picnics were given on moun-
tain-tops, upon verandas and in gardens — at
Laiakanoe hale (Point of Mists) near Pearl Har-
bor, where the whole American navy may now
make itself at home, with the Waianae mountains
(Watchtowers of the West) forever upon guard.
The sweet, simple, gracious life of the islands is
delicious even in retrospect.

Surf-riding is an exciting amusement ; native
boatmen, each with a happy passenger in his
canoe, paddle out beyond the breaking waves,
only to ride beachward on a rushing, foamy
crest. Bathing-suits are necessary for the pas-

LIFE IN HONOLULU

senger (the islander does not trouble himself
with one) because overturns are not infrequent.
If the foreigner can swim until the native comes
to his aid, all is well. Most persons can do so,
and are generally rescued alive, though not inva-
riably. Still, the perilous pastime continues in
unabated popularity.

Ladies use no side saddles. With full, divided
skirts the Hawaiian method of riding is not less
graceful than our more accustomed fashion, be-
sides being more hygienic for both horse and
rider. Tennis and golf clubs add their testi-
mony to a certain fresh tonic in the balmy air.
Yet the purely native character is undeniably
indolent, amiable, and careless of the morrow,
with an untroubled satisfaction in the sunshine
and bananas of this life. To the average Amer-
ican manner its southern softness and grace are
added, producing a charm too frequently absent
from more prosaic conditions at home.

The President and Mrs. Dole were unwearied
in personal kindness to the expedition. A break-
fast, among other pleasant attentions, was given
us at the executive mansion one dewy morning,
amid palms and birds and flowers. The dining-
room was wide open to veranda and garden, full
of summer scents and murmurs, heavy shade of
bread-fruit trees, and sound of dripping foun-
tains. The first six courses were fruits, — alliga-

50 CORONA AND CORONET

tor pears, papaia, fresh figs with cream, mangoes,
pomegranates, and more familiar strawberries,
bananas, and oranges. Another morning Mrs.
Dole invited to her beautiful home thirty or forty
friends, members of an informal literary club, to
meet the guest from over-seas. With none of
the harassed ferment and eager attitude charac-
teristic of that objectionable type, the genuine
new woman, these native-born ladies of Amer-
ican descent were an audience appreciative to
an inspiring degree. Discriminating in their
criticism, they showed the gracious effect of
careful study in conditions of untroubled leisure.

Sojourners in this enchanted land are always
taken to the pali (precipice). Back from the
city climbs the road, through Nuuanu valley,
between curious peaks and ridges of volcanic
hills, ten or twelve hundred feet high, and past
roadsides abounding in bright lantana. Scarlet
and orange and yellow, it is always at first
greatly admired by visitors, conspicuous in their
buttonhole bouquets of the gay blossoms. But
no resident would be guilty of disporting himself
in the flowers of this overrunning pest, supplant-
ing as it does worthier growths, and causing great
wrath in the innocent breasts of husbandmen
and householders. It is, however, not less dec-
orative because objectionable to agriculture.

Brightly green in afternoon sunshine rose the

RESIDENCE OF PRESIDENT DOLE IN HONOLULU

LIFE IN HONOLULU 51

valley's inclosing walls, their summits shrouded
in soft cloud, often condensing suddenly in
swiftly passing showers. Carefully cultivated
fields of kalo (or tard) showed each root of hand-
some leaves set off by itself in a little hill sur-
rounded by water. Personally I could wish this
highly useful plant might be kept exclusively for
decorative effect, wherein it is a success ; since
as basis of poi^ the national food, it becomes an
unappetizing edible of barbarous qualities.

In 1795 the Napoleon of Hawaii, Kamehameha
the First, fought a great battle near the present
Nuuanu road in his final conquest of Oahu, one of
the last islands to acknowledge his supremacy.
His enemies fought bravely until their leader Kai-
ana was killed, which utterly discouraged and soon
laid them low ; while the remnants, forced up the
narrowing valley before the victor, were finally
driven over the pali at its head, 800 feet into the
plain below.

Looking backward for an instant from this
battlefield, the city lay bathed in warm sunlight ;
far beyond the blue sea, hazy with distance,
gleamed to a shimmering horizon. The valley
closes in yet more narrowly as the road continues
to ascend, and at last a low wall ahead apparently
bars farther progress, and giant sentinel towers
of rock rise several hundred feet on either side.
No premonition of approaching grandeur touches

52 CORONA AND CORONET

one's expectation ; only some pretty vista is an-
ticipated, like scores of others the world over.
But beyond that wall the scene might well be in
some novel planet, so rare and radiant, so shin-
ing and peaceful, so far and grand — its effect
was too overpowering for more than the first ex-
clamation of delight.

Directly below the parapet falls a steep preci-
pice. At its foot is a serene and sunny country
bathed in unspeakable peace after aeons of un-
forgotten volcanic agony, — stretching indefinite
miles to right and left, and joining northward the
pale and misty sea, with white surf breaking
high on many a rocky point, or creeping silently
up to silvery beaches curving around distant
bays. Over all, brooding sunshine, pensive in
still beauty ; close at our left an amazing pin-
nacle of reddish volcanic rock, hundreds of feet
above. Curving sharply to the right, and de-
scending steeply under a perpendicular wall, the
road zigzagged downward to sea-level.

No words even suggest the strange grandeur,
the foreignness, the exquisite beauty, the illimit-
able pathos of this pali. Its charm " vanishes in
the writing, and remains dumb in the telling."
But in my innermost heart of memory it dwells
for all time. During an instant of joyful awe it
seemed that this world lay solemnly in the very
presence of God.

LIFE IN HONOLULU 53

With return to every-day emotions once more,
consciousness of the furious wind grew unplea-
santly insistent ; and a native boy, carrying a
violin and riding a much decorated horse, passed
by and down the steep path, with never a glance
at the outspread glories, but many an interested
one at the strangers.

A unique sight in Honolulu is the magnificent
Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, which contains
the finest collection of South Sea Island speci-
mens in the world, an epitome of Polynesian eth-
nology and natural history. Founded in 1889 by
the Hon. Charles R. Bishop in memory of his
gifted wife, herself a direct descendant of the
Kamehameha line and actually heir to the throne,
the nucleus of the collection was Mrs. Bishop's
own store of mats, calabashes, and distinctively
Hawaiian relics, bequeathed to her as sole survivor
of the original royal line, and supplemented by be-
quest of Queen Emma's treasures. Later collec-
tions made in New Guinea and New Zealand came
to its shelves, and now the whole story of Poly-
nesia may be read within these remarkable walls.

The Kamehameha schools for boys and for
girls, established by the will of Mrs. Bishop, are
still farther monuments to the extraordinary gen-
erosity and wisdom of this unusual woman, and
to her husband's well-directed liberality. Native
girls in airy, comfortable recitation rooms are

54 CORONA AND CORONET

carefully taught subjects of probable use in after
life. They sang for us American songs, occasion-
ally one of their own quiet melodies with soft
Hawaiian words.

Far back in the misty annals of this little group
of famous islands, women here and there emerge
from a gray past in bright relief, — welcome inci-
dents in a monotonous story of conquest and
rebellion, war and victory. Even in prehistoric
times wives of chiefs played conspicuous parts ;
and in half fabulous tales of old voyages, the
hero-chieftain took in the great canoe his wife
and his astronomer, — evidences of good taste
and sagacity in that twilight period of Pacific
island history.

Astrology was practiced, and its devotees con-
tinually studied the heavens, the places of moon
and planets in relation to especial stars and con-
stellations being deeply associated with the for-
tunes of many high families. Navigation by the
stars was constantly practiced. Not only at sea
were women brave and helpful ; but warriors'
wives often followed in the rear of armies, carry-
ing food and water, and sometimes aiding the
belligerents more practically. Manono, wife of a
brave and popular young chief at the head of an
insurrection, fought by his side, continuing her
part in the battle when he fell, finally herself
dying upon his prostrate body.

LIFE IN HONOLULU 55

Rank, too, descended through the mother, and
marriages of high chieftains were carefully regu-
lated. A queen's son was a noble, no matter of
what class his father. On the other hand, the
son of a chief, if his mother were a person of no
especial rank, would be one of the masses like
herself. For state purposes, therefore, great care
was used in contracting marriages, and offers
were frequently made by women. In 1807 three
men were put to death because the head queen of
Kamehameha the First (Keopuolani, recognized
by all as the highest living chief) was danger-
ously ill. She, respecting the sacrifice, recovered
and lived sixteen years, surviving by four years
her illustrious lord.

In later days, too, women are prominent.
As queen regent Kaahumanu was an enlightened
ruler, a promoter of education and good morals.
Living until 1832, her reign, if it may be so
called, was full of progress and prosperity. Ki-
nau, as premier in Kaahumanu's place, used her
strong influence for law and order. In 1859, that
brilliant king Kamehameha the Fourth and his
charming wife Queen Emma founded the hospital
bearing her name, which still keeps her in no less
loving remembrance than if she had been elected
chief ruler, as at one time was possible. When
King Kalakaua died, his sister Liliuokalani be-
came queen ; thus once again a woman held the
helm of state.

56 CORONA AND CORONET

And SO, onward through all the years from the
brave wives of early chiefs, generations of Ha-
waiian women are incentive to every native girl of
to-day. Always prominent in island affairs, they
have now a better opportunity than women in
many other nations to live up to their inherited
traditions, and carry on a worthy island story.

The old native church, for which each stone is
said to have been contributed by a different and
devoted Hawaiian, is quaint and attractive upon
the exterior, and its service is conducted in the
soft syllables of the " boneless " language.

Life in Honolulu harbor had its own distinctive
interest. Anchored far enough out to avoid the
dust and heat of the wharves, there was always a
gentle breeze under the awning of the Coronet's
after deck, where all our meals on board were
served. Flowers filled the saloon, fresh fruits
were unlimited, and our time-bells and those of
the U. S. S. Adams, as well as of merchant ships
lying near by, mingled unanimous hours and half
hours musically all over the harbor, as days and
nights rolled on.

Naval officers are always charming hosts. En-
closed with flags, a native orchestra discoursing
sweet and plaintive music for American dancing,
flowers, summer gowns, cool refreshments, — the
decks of the Adams were often the scene of gay
teas and receptions, the Coronet's gig and the

LIFE IN HONOLULU

naval launches carrying festive parties from one
to the other, and the shore.

Entertaining, too, in its way, was the artless
family life in progress upon a neighboring big
merchantman. The captain with his wife and
three small children were very much at home
upon their nautical abode ; and while the ship
was overhauled for repairs, hammers ringing out
as the old paint was chipped off her huge sides,
a fresh coat following closely with rejuvenating
effect, father and mother played with the baby,
or wheeled it up and down the deck in a small
carriage, while two older children pirouetted about
in little sunbonnets, — citizens already of the
maritime world at large.

Much of the Astronomer's time was spent in
rating the chronometers on shore, in observation
of transits by night, and in farther tests of the
new glycerine clock in the Surveyor General's
office by day.

But in spite

" Of hours that glide unfelt away
Beneath the sky of May,"

and the delightful simplicity of life in Honolulu,
we were not oblivious to the complex problems
abounding in the island. Native customs are
slowly but surely dying out, and an Americanized
future is now inevitable, — more useful if less
picturesque.

CHAPTER VII

HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES

The reticent volcano keeps

His never-slumbering plan ;
Confided are his projects pink

To no precarious man.
Admonished by his buckled lips

Let every babbler be ;
The only secret people keep

Is Immortality.

Emily Dickinson.

Remoteness of the Hawaiian islands from one
another is hardly appreciated by those who have
never visited our new possession. Honolulu and
the island group are synonymous to most per-
sons. Usual maps, too, give suggestion that
channels at most separate the islands, which may
lie an hour or two's sail apart. Local steamers,
however, require two days and a night for the trip
from Honolulu southward to ports on Hawaii, the
largest island.

On the twenty -first of April, Mauna Loa,
13,700 feet high, had begun to show lurid red
above its topmost crater (Mokuaweoweo), beto-
kening one of its infrequent eruptions. From a
hundred miles away at sea enormous pillars of

HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES 59

red flame could be seen streaming upward. Dur-
ing nearly three weeks a magnificent spectacle
had continued, and the island papers were filled
with details of the new activity.

But the projects pink of this particular vol-
cano, no less than of its generic brotherhood,
were concealed from every precarious man ;
and no one dared to foretell Mauna Loa's never-
slumbering plan. Its reticence was complete.
Though the fires were evidently growing less,
such an opportunity must not be missed. Hono-
lulu fascinations were hard to leave ; still, the
inter-island steamer Hall at its next departure
had several members of the expedition on board,
as well as a number of friends from the city who
joined us for the week's trip. The Coronet would
repose peacefully at anchor during this side ex-
cursion, with those on board whom urgent expe-
dition business aided in resisting the volcano.

A few residents of the city, and a German, Dr.
Friedlander,^ had already made the ascent ; but
such hardships are encountered that few persons
attempt it. Mr. Dodge of the Government Sur-
vey had been one of a party to reach the summit,
and his description was a truly thrilling tale. He
told us that the cold was intense, ice filling gaps
and chasms over which they climbed, a heavy

1 " Mauna Loa," by Dr. Benedict Friedlander, Himmel und
Erde^ vol. ix. p. i, October, 1896.

6o CORONA AND CORONET

snowstorm was in progress, and mountain-sick-
ness attacked many of the adventurers. Horses,
too, suffered greatly, — one dying in the rough
upward scramble over masses of pahoehoe and
sharp aa (lava).

The Wilkes scientific expedition round the
world in 1844 had made the ascent, and their
trail, still dimly defined, had been found by Mr.
Dodge and his party at about 11,000 feet eleva-
tion. They remained over night upon the edge
of the crater, whose walls vary from 500 to 700
feet in height, while the lake of liquid fire was
not less than 1600 feet in length with a width
perhaps two thirds as great.

From this appalling expanse two huge foun-
tains of flame a few furlongs apart were seen to
spout upward thousands of tons of lava, brilliantly
lighting the whole crater, and the heavens above.
Their average height was about 250 feet; but
frequently spurts or fiery jets would fling red-
hot bombs to a much greater elevation, while
the boom and roar of this whole inconceivable
outburst filled every pause in the wild wind.
Smaller columns constantly leaped forth in dif-
ferent spots, occasional whirlwinds carrying pillars
of smoke hundreds of feet above the walls, and
lifting great slabs of hardening lava only to cast
them off again. The edge of creeping lava, bril-
liantly red, lapped a margin of white snow.

HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES 6i

Spray from these upspringing fountains of
flame made graceful curves as they descended in
sparkling showers, while at their bases a crimson
sea seethed and boiled like angry surf upon the
shores of Hades. Descriptions of the activity of
these fountains perhaps suggested in small mea-
sure the terrific happenings at the surface of the
sun.

What climb could be too arduous for a view of
such scenes !

As the Hall left her Honolulu moorings, the
wharf presented a characteristic sight. Native
men in picturesque hats trimmed with bands of
peacock feathers, women in the universal holoku,
boys in no particular costume to speak of, and
everybody draped in wreaths of flowers, filled all
available space with an amiable crowd. Little
two-wheeled vehicles waited in the background,
full of pretty children and young girls in white ;
close by, handsome brown boys dived in the clear
green water for dimes and quarters thrown from
the steamer. Flowers were everywhere, tropical
sunshine and good-humored faces. Slowly reced-
ing from the wharf, the Hall passed the Coronet
at her anchorage, acknowledged her parting sa-
lute, and turned south toward the incomparable
volcano.^

1 " To no other volcano can Mauna Loa be compared in its
vast mass, or the magnitude of its eruptive activity." — Captain
C. E. Button, U. S. Army.

62 CORONA AND CORONET

Slight roughness in currents of the inter-island
ocean caused the passengers, regardless of na-
tionality, to subside unanimously. The south-
ern shores of Molokai are more nearly level than
its rugged northern coast. Lanai was passed.
But no interest in topographic features sufficed
to stir the occupants of the forward deck, Chi-
nese and Japanese, Portuguese and Kanakas, in
every imaginable half-breed combination, — all
lying with their luggage around them, in pictur-
esque confusion. Small Japanese babies with
shaved heads and fringe of hair and Chinese in-
fants with tiny queues diversified the scene, but
made no sound. So thickly was the deck covered
with various reposing nationalities, all in their
native attitudes, that stepping room was out of
the question. It was a motley array. The cap-
tain was a handsome, swarthy islander, the
stewards light-footed Japanese.

The level light of sunset turned the whole
great slope of Maui brilliant red ; deep shadows
were thrown into enormous gorges ; occasional
patches of brilliant green sugar-cane appeared,
the tropical effect emphasized by tall cocoanut
palms near the shore. Moist, filmy clouds hung
about the mountain peaks, now and then drifting
off aimlessly. Many natives, draped in leis^ were
leaving the Hall at the little town of Lahaina,
and through the purser's politeness we took a
closer view of an unfamiliar hamlet.

HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES 63

Crowds filled the landing-place, sandy streets
were bordered by banyan and cocoanut trees,
and a pond hid itself beneath the crimson flow-
ers of some greenly spreading water-plant. Boys
walked calmly up the straight, columnar trunks
of trees, bringing back cocoanuts as spoil ; women
and children played in the sand. Along the
beach lay waas curious native canoes with ex-
tended outriggers ; and surf beat high on lava
reefs outside.

The evening was warm, the breeze soft, and
her deck a charmed spot as the Hall steamed
away in early twilight.

Kailua, a place of much historic interest, was
passed at dawn, too early for landing. Miss
Field was reported as still pursuing there her
studies into the condition of natives.

About noon of the second day, Kealakeakua
Bay was approached, and the monument at the
village, Kaawaloa, in honor of Captain Cook,
surrounded by a fence of chains and ancient can-
non. The discovery of these islands by the
famous navigator was the turning-point in their
history, ushering in a new era of prosperity. He
first visited them in 1778, his second visit being
in the autumn of the same year. In January of
1779 he anchored in this bay, where nearly a
century and a quarter later an eclipse expedition
tarried on its way to the Orient.

64 CORONA AND CORONET

Cliffs nearly five hundred feet high rise straight
up from the sea, and around the bay, with water
as clear and green as an emerald, nestles the little
town. The site of an astronomical observatory
established by Captain Cook near by was not
seen, but it was a thought full of interest that
instruments had been so early set up and obser-
vations made in this far-away harbor of Hawaii.

The murder of this sturdy explorer, 14th
February, 1779, so affected the world at large
that no foreign vessels attempted to anchor there
for over seven years. Land for the monument,
erected in the name of his countrymen, by Lord
Byron, commander of the frigate Blonde, was
given by the Princess Likelike (Mrs. Cleghorn,
sister of Queen Liliuokalani).

Telephone service is nearly perfect, and one
may speak from any of these little native towns
to all others on the same island. Everywhere
we eagerly asked for news from Mauna Loa.
Each reply was more discouraging than the last,
— its fires were no longer visible ; but ever hope-
ful we voyaged onward.

All along the Hawaiian shore lie occasional
villages ; here and there a freshly made cave in
the cliffs showed a late burial-place of some na-
tive. In earlier years a popular custom, this
method of interment is now infrequently prac-
ticed. Innumerable natural caves indent the

HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES 65

rocky coast, against which deeply blue water
beats itself into tremendous walls of white, the
spray flying high and startling the air with a re-
sounding boom.

This southwestern coast of Hawaii is barren
but impressive. Apparently one huge lava flow,
it is only in spots overgrown by verdure. Black
death and green life lie side by side. These
oases hold a few grass huts, and half a dozen
straggling cocoanuts, while far above lies the
great mountain, its top lost in drifting cloud.
With a base so enormous, and slope so gradual
that its true proportions are difficult to conceive,
Mauna Loa gives almost the impression of being
fiat on top. Around Hawaii the sea is very
deep, and if its mountains were referred to their
true bases at ocean's bottom, where the range
really rises, they would be no less than thirty thou-
sand feet, or nearly six miles in vertical height.

The national vegetable is poi. I had tasted
this article prepared in several ways, always with
a new sensation but without marked satisfaction.
Noticing upon the Hall an old friend and resi-
dent of Honolulu, engaged in drinking from a
glass something evidently cold and possibly good,
I boldly ordered a similar beverage, only to find
it gray and elastic, and alarmingly acid in flavor.

I had eaten black bread in Germany with
nameless accessories, raw fish in Japan, unclassi-

66 CORONA AND CORONET

fied crustaceans, and shoots of bamboo, and na-
tional dishes in various other regions of the
earth's surface. But liquid poi is a discourag-
ing delicacy which outranks them all ; and a sin-
gle draught required all the cosmopolitanism I
could summon to refrain from unseemly demon-
stration. The scenery again resumed its greater
charm, with one fleeting glimpse of Mauna Kea,
high in the sky.

Toward evening the Hall anchored off Punaluu,
two hundred and seventy miles from Honolulu,
where landing appeared an uncertain perform-
ance, through pounding surf, still encircling the
coast in walls of swaying whiteness. About nine
o'clock two small boats shot through from the
little town, to bring our company ashore. They
were propelled by natives ready to dash back
with us into lines of breakers at the most favor-
able instant.

Great rollers chased us madly, raised the
boats like egg-shells in a wild rush forward, then
broke over the lava reefs with resounding din
on either side, now and then enveloping us in
heavy showers. Still the native oarsmen kept
peacefully onward, guiding their craft with much
skill through the narrow passage among rocks,
taking each sea just right until both boats were
brought up safely beside a little wharf in partial
shelter of a small bay, where one assisted jump

HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES 67

landed the voyagers among a variegated crowd
watching our arrival with interest. It was called
an unusually calm landing for that port.

Punaluu society seemed to be in a state of
primitive simplicity. After walking up to the
little hotel through a path between lily-ponds
bordered by rushes, no proprietor was apparent.
Everything was open, all on one floor, doors and
windows hospitably wide, beds carefully made,
and not a soul in sight. So we took possession,
and after a time an excellent Chinaman appeared
who officially turned the house over to the guests
and their peaceful slumbers.

CHAPTER VIII

A HAWAIIAN JOURNEY

According to her cloth she cut her coat.

Dryden, The Cock and the Fox.

Ah He provided a delicious breakfast ; during
intervals of dreams we had heard him chasing
fowls of different species far into the night, and
the merry company remained unsubdued despite
heavy clouds enshrouding Mauna Loa, and occa-
sional sprinkles. But impending disappointment
as to the great eruption became sad certainty.
The fierce fires had wholly withdrawn into deep-
est mountain recesses ; not a tint of red remained
to suggest the unconquerable energy which for
nearly three weeks had flashed forth in sublimity.
The climb, therefore, to Mokuaweoweo, nearly
fourteen thousand feet in air, was reluctantly
abandoned, since the grand spectacle had seethed
itself into rest, and nothing except a dark crater
would reward the ascent, views of distant islands
and ocean being almost constantly cut off by
clouds and mist. Kilauea, less than one third
as high, but always interesting, and evidently pre-
paring for an eruption of its own, became our
volcanic Mecca.

A HAWAIIAN JOURNEY 69

Something, called by courtesy a train, inaug-
urated the first stage of the trip. The track,
supposedly about two feet wide, varied pleasantly
in breadth, sometimes more, sometimes less, each
rail wandering goalward at its own sweet will.
An amusing toy engine, old and rusty, with a
shrill shriek to correspond, drew one small plat-
form on wheels where the satchels of the com-
pany reposed under a canvas cover ; a second,
with benches for the men, and a third, boasting
an awning under which the ladies were invited to
ride in magnificence.

Across a volcanic country staggered this estab-
lishment, in amazing curves, brushing past cattle
grazing on scanty grass among the lava. Every-
where superb white poppies and a scarlet flower
like salvia bloomed lavishly. Over deep gul-
lies, in the rainy season grotesque lava beds for
rushing streams, around hills, skirting miniature
valleys, the little railroad pursued its uncertain
way to Pahala Plantation.

Here the sugar-making process was watched —
from cutting the cane on four thousand acres of
land, to the completed crystals, not sufficiently
refined to prevent free importation at San Fran-
cisco.

Horses and a rickety stage were soon in readi-
ness. Several ladies rode in divided skirts, after
the sensible island fashion.

70 CORONA AND CORONET

A desolate country, indeed, this leeward side
of Hawaii, covered with lava hardened into weird
shapes like nearly stagnant waves, too lazy to
flow, but which, just as they were curving for
another lap, stiffened into crawling circles, or
heaped in chaotic masses. Brilliant yellow and
scarlet milkweed blossomed along the way, stand-
ing decoratively against black lava backgrounds,
while armies of brown butterflies which might
have recently escaped from some New England
meadow, hovered near, perfectly at home in these
foreign uplands.

Pele, goddess of fire, seems appropriately fond
of red, for red flowers, red leaves, red berries, and
red birds abound on the slope toward her citadel.
But she is a jealous divinity, and no flower or
berry must be picked on the slopes of Kilauea,
for that would imply admiration of them. And
all homage must first be paid herself — else
she will send rain or other damper to pilgrim
enthusiasm.

A native woman, Kapiolani, having decided in
favor of Christianity, journeyed to Kilauea in
1824, purposely to set Pele at defiance. Upon
the very edge of the crater this brave woman,
trembling at heart, we must suppose, if only from
hereditary dread, performed various acts designed
to excite wrath in the fiery goddess, whose power
for centuries had been thought absolute. Yet no

A HAWAIIAN JOURNEY 71

fatality followed these impious performances, the
truly heroic attempt justifying itself. But super-
stition is hard to dislodge, and to this day few-
natives would willingly pluck anything on the
way to the crater. Pele's particular flower, the
ohiay grows on large trees, a magnificent fringe of
scarlet like flame, apparently the long, clustered
stamens of a tiny, whitish corolla.

After the charmingly hospitable manner of
islanders, we were entertained at luncheon at
Kapapala Ranch, a garden of beauty midst great
barrenness ; and here another vivid account of
the great eruption was given. From the depths
of a heavy snowstorm a benumbed and half-
fainting company had watched through the night
the gigantic spectacle, listening to the never
ceasing roar of flames and internal seething of
this indescribable cauldron. Though that was
but a few days before, when ships at sea could
view the pillar of fire on Mauna Loa's crest for
one hundred and fifty miles, now it was all out
and gone — not a breath more of this terrific
energy, and only a calm summit reposing peace-
fully above, innocently laying its huge crest
against the sky, even in its great height like any
New England hill.

After luncheon riders and stage traversed
the short grass, still upward, a telephone wire
the sole suggestion of direction, or an occasional

72 CORONA AND CORONET

intermittent line of lava wall. In the native
language going toward the mountains is called
mauka ; to the sea, or anywhere away from
the heights, makai. Sometimes a few lichens
half concealed the rock they decorated ; or a
vine full of blue morning glories climbed high
on rugged masses, and a few ferns grew here
and there. The brilliant milkweed went to
seed at will, — showing, in friendly association
with buds and blossoms, a silvery puff ready
to float on the first inviting breeze. Running
about among the rough masses were tiny quail,
and a large rock had a round hole in its side,
through which a fern seemed to have pushed
itself, turning skyward, and unrolling its little
green knapsack in fitful sunshine. Behind, the
blue sea tumbled in white surf on a jet-black
beach of volcanic sand ; before, the lava-covered
heights we toiled to reach.

After the Half-way House, kept by an odd
character with amusing conversational powers, a
few more ragged and scrawny trees appeared,
but this side of the island is undeniably desolate.

The great lava flow of 1868 came down the
southwestern slope ; we had passed it, now a
black and cold devastation, in the Hall at the
little town of Kahuku. That eruption, begin-
ning in the summit crater, was accompanied by
all sorts of convulsions. Earthquakes shook

A HAWAIIAN JOURNEY 73

houses quite off their foundations, breaking vases
and china indiscriminately ; so that now dining-
room closets in this uneasy region are fitted with
little guards in front of every shelf — like a
ship's galley. A " mud-flow " swept downward
a league's distance in a few minutes, not less
than half a mile wide and thirty feet deep. So
rapid was its engulfing rush that thirty or forty
persons were overwhelmed, and hundreds of ani-
mals perished. A tidal wave, too, toward fifty
feet high, rolled against the coast, killing nearly
a hundred persons, destroying villages, and per-
manently submerging the road at Punaluu, where
landing is now effected.

Another great lava stream broke forth late in
1880, and flowed down the eastern slope for many
months. Sometimes a mile and a half in width,
it slowly but steadily approached the town of
Hilo, causing much depression in dwellers there,
and in the price of real estate. The speed of
these streams of pahoehoe is so moderate that
time is sufificient to remove livestock and port-
able treasures from its path. But one may not
transport his sugar plantation, nor his house and
gardens ; and property continued to depreciate,
as this slow, deliberate, relentless stream came
nearer and nearer. In the general panic lands
of ancestral memory were abandoned for a song.
When within three quarters of a mile of the

74 CORONA AND CORONET

town, and destruction seemed only a matter of
days, then it was that trust in ancient super-
stitions once more prevailed, and the Princess
Ruth, a member of the old royal Kamehameha
family, went out with a company of friends to
appease if possible the wrath of Pele. Bottles
of brandy and gin, pigs, chickens, silk handker-
chiefs, and locks of hair were thrown into the
sluggish stream with appropriate ceremonies.

It must have been a weird scene, as described
to me by an eye-witness, a participator in the
evening's events ; and the party returned to
town, confident in the success of their diplomatic
mission. Singularly enough the flow stopped
next day, dividing itself and dying out harmlessly.
But the real estate could not be bought back by
its former owners. Neither gratitude, nor terror
of Pele, sufficed for that.

Late in 1886 hundreds of earthquake shocks
were felt, and soon after New Year's an erup-
tion occurred at the summit crater of Mauna
Loa, accompanied by a lava stream following in
general the great flow of 1868. The death of
Princess Likelike, sister of King Kalakaua and
Liliuokalani, occurring about the time this flow
ceased, gave abundant reason to many natives
for its ending, a certain propitiatory offering thus
implied. In December, 1892, Mokuaweoweo
was again brilliantly active for three days ; but

A HAWAIIAN JOURNEY 75

the frequent minor eruptions are subordinate to
the two disasters most frequently quoted — in
1868 and 1881.

As the old stage rattled on, the advance riders
quite out of sight, a damp mistiness hung over
the landscape. Pele's scarlet flowers glowed in
the dull day like veritable bits of her own flame,
and native stories, legends, and myths beguiled
the rough and ever upward way. Curious blow-
holes abound, where bubbles of lava once burst,
leaving deep caves and pits. In one of these
tradition says Pele once came in search of a
pleasant home. She was accompanied by sixteen
hula (dancing) girls, who thoughtlessly picked
the delicate fringed blossoms of the ohia, and
otherwise showed carelessness of her peculiari-
ties ; so that returning one day to the cave after
an excursion about the mountain, she suddenly
turned them all into pillars of pahoehoe^ while a
central one of aa is commonly reported to repre-
sent herself, the only bit of that formation in this
vicinity. Even now no native can be persuaded
to enter that cave without an offering, if only a
lei for Pele.

Stories relating to fissures, caves, or lava-
blocks were told on the way, unfailingly pictur-
esque, and showing a strong bent of the native
mind. "Henry Gandell's Leap" is a wide crack
on the slope of Mauna Loa, which a man riding

76 CORONA AND CORONET

in hot haste down the mountain-side saw too late
to avoid. Spurring ahead, he took the flying
leap, and landed safely on the farther side ; but
the strain caused his ultimate death a year later,
though the horse was reported as still alive. Be-
lief in kahunas (witch doctors) has by no means
died out ; and a prophet named Lukula foretold
that a corpse {kupapa-ti) would arrive from over
sea, bringing death and desolation ; that a great
eruption would then occur, to be followed by a
royal restoration. Cholera came and Mauna Loa
broke forth, but restoration remains unverified.
Toward evening a cloud of white vapor indicated
the nearness of Kilauea ; and steam bursting
out of holes and cracks in the ground all about,
very hot and fringed with exquisite sulphur crys-
tals, formed the suggestive approach to Volcano
House. Perched high on one wall of the enor-
mous crater, this hotel commands the entire scene
of desolate grandeur. A lake of black lava, three
and one half miles in one direction by one and
one half in the other, is surrounded by nearly
perpendicular walls varying from seven hundred
and fifty to three hundred feet high, at one end
of which a secondary crater sends out volumes
of sulphurous fumes. Mauna Loa rises grandly
toward the west, and in the north Mauna Kea
raises a rugged peak yet higher.

Fortunately without other guests the Volcano

A HAWAIIAN JOURNEY J7

House hospitably offered ample quarters, most at-
tractive of all a long billiard-room, dark raftered
overhead, with huge stone fireplace decorated by
lurid scenes of volcanic activity. A friendly
house-party took immediate possession, and many
and startling were the stories told round the blaz-
ing fire ; for evening air at high altitudes is cool,
and in Pele's very sanctuary any tale is credible.

CHAPTER IX

KILAUEA

After eruptions are over,

After the mountain is dumb,
After the fire has vanished,

Up to the crater we come ;
Wander on black lakes of lava,

See the white steam rising higher,
Gaze at the calm crest of Mauna —
After the fire.

Early dawn revealed a weird scene. Steam
issued all about the house from countless fissures.
Below, the enormous lava lake stretched grim and
motionless, partly hidden by mist. Over it fell
showers at intervals, while the hotel stood in bril-
liant sunrise light, and a superb rainbow arched
the black pit from wall to wall with heavenly
radiance. Then sunlight broke through the last
shred of mist, chasing away the shadows, and it
was sweet, sparkling morning on Kilauea.

Descent into the crater, on the sure-footed
horses, is a memorable experience. Back and
forth the narrow path winds, down the wall,
through masses of ferns and foliage, until the
great cliff behind shut's out half the sky, and high
in its thick verdure a single bird-song came out

KILAUEA 79

airily into the dewy morning. But the lake was
unspeakable desolation, — black lava in writhing,
curling, creeping masses as far as the eye could
reach, growing hotter to the feet as the steaming
secondary crater was approached, until a stick
thrust slightly into a crack came out in flames.
Strange contradiction of this fast-dying nineteenth
century, a telephone wire crosses this Hades of
desolation, and, though useless now, once served
to connect the Volcano House with a little build-
ing close to the active crater. But in the pictur-
esque native language, " it was eaten up by fire ; "
that is, the hot lava walls caved and the little
house fell in.

Every tiniest crack sends out heat like a regis-
ter when the furnace below is red hot — only in
Kilauea one may not send down impatiently to
know why the check drafts have been forgotten.
The crater is a bewildering mass of tumbled lava,
hissing sulphur steam, and unbearable heat. An-
other great eruption was daily expected.

The various kinds of "blow-holes" were curi-
ously fascinating, with heat too intense even to
stand near in many cases, yet tempting as far as
endurable. Anxious as usual for new experiences,
I descended a short distance into one about
fifteen feet deep, but speedily returned, nearly
overcome by sulphur fumes and a temperature of
unimaginable degrees Fahrenheit.

8o CORONA AND CORONET

"Yes," said the General sadly, ''she couldn't
stay as long as she hoped, but her next article
will be entitled 'My Interview with Satan, or
What I saw in the Blow-hole.' It will be very
exciting and sufficiently authentic."

Such amenities materially mitigate the dreary
grimness of a slumbering but restless volcano,
and the active crater's extreme edge was cheer-
fully approached. The soles of our boots were
already too hot for comfort, and prevailing sul-
phur odor was variegated by a strong smell of
burning woolen, as folds of a gown rested for a
second against an unsuspected crack in the flaky
and shining black surface. Thick fumes con-
cealed the pit activities six hundred feet below,
and a slight change in the wind would have
brought suffocation in its train. Above the whole
surface, even of cooler portions of the lake just
traversed, the heated air lay in a quivering mass,
and retreat was a gradual return to comfortable
breathing. As the lava became cooler, away
from the more active pit, a tiny green fern now
and then peeped hopefully from an unaccustomed
bed ; and enormous encircling walls, often nearly
perpendicular, rose above with grand but sullen
effectiveness. The necessarily slow climb to the
upper world made a mile or two of free wild gal-
loping on the mountain horses a subsequent ne-
cessity. Sulphur fumes were blown off in brisk

KILAUEA 8 1

breezes, a handful of wild roses was gathered,
and a soft-footed Celestial announced luncheon
just as we drew rein under the tree ferns by the
hotel entrance.

Kilauea-iki is well worth the short walk through
unfamilar fields, past strange holes going down in
blackness to unknown depths, but fringed on the
edge by luxuriant ferns. For a mile or more a
footpath winds pleasantly through characteristic
vegetation, emerging suddenly at the brink of a
huge pit a mile across, sunk over seven hundred
feet into the earth. The sides of this enormous
bowl, in places very steep, are covered with shrubs
and low trees, and far down were wild goats
peacefully browsing on the margin of another
black lake, dead, cold, its waves stiffened in im-
memorial ripples. This weird spot lies quiet in
the unmoved calm of centuries, no eruption hav-
ing broken its repose within historic time. Four
or five holes in the bank, however, are said to
have afforded exit for small streams of lava which
as lately as 1844 sped downward in molten cas-
cades, — travesty upon murmuring brooks hasten-
ing to join some still, green, forest tarn.

It is a strange region, full of uncanny interest ;
but afternoon tea on the Volcano House veranda
brought familiar modern life once more to the
front.

A stroll to gleaming sulphur caves beyond the

82 CORONA AND CORONET

hotel gardens gave renewed consciousness of the
proximity of nature's vast, uncouth forces, often
slumbering but never inoperant, and constantly
ready to burst forth into sublime activity. The
sparkling yellow sulphur crystals are exquisitely
fragile, and the cracks they fringe, emitting steam
and smoke from fires perilously close at hand, are
too hot for thorough examination. Trees and
shrubs near these vents are incrusted with yel-
lowish deposit, making spectral pictures.

The Olaa road to Hilo traverses another world.
This little town is about thirty miles from the
Volcano House. The government road thither is
hard, perfectly kept, and bordered by tropically
luxuriant vegetation. Banks of tall tree ferns,
shrubs showing both white blossoms and scarlet
berries, huge creepers {ieie) with long, lance-
shaped leaves, hanging their blossoms high in air
from trees by which they climb, composed a tan-
gle lush and bewildering. The water-lemon with
decorative leaves, blossoms like a passion flower,
and oval, purple fruit ; bananas, so sheltered that
their great leaves are perfect — not whipped into
ribbons like those on windy Bermuda; a large
bush with drooping, greenish white bells, called
floripo7ida, made the whole roadside a joy to tra-
verse, and without the haunting pain that every-
thing might be barbarously cut down before the
next visit.

KILAUEA 83

Careless guardians of highways in the United
States might well take to heart the practical les-
son from Hawaii, where intelligent as well as
aesthetic appreciation protects and enhances every
roadside beauty. The district {aind) about Hilo
is now used extensively in cultivating coffee ;
and although the land costs only five or six dol-
lars an acre, five times that sum is used in clear-
ing it for plantations. But no settler is allowed
to bring his fields to the roadside ; a border of
natural growth must be left, not less than one
hundred and fifty feet wide, between his coffee
plants and the highway. He may keep four hun-
dred feet (along the road) of open lawn before his
housQ. Otherwise no border growths must be
cut, and I hear the prescribed width is now in-
creased by one hundred feet.

With natural loveliness so jealously guarded on
every hand, I could but remember certain drives
in New England, once fair and beautiful, now
reduced to scenes of painful devastation; where
farmers, in temporary lack of occupation, might
have been seen cheerfully mowing banks of
maidenhair, chopping down trees, blackberry and
elder bushes, pulling up clematis by the roots, and
setting fire to the pathetic remnants. Here in
remote Hawaii every tree and shrub, flower and
vine, is watched and cared for ; and a total dearth
of advertising signs on rocks and conspicuous
places is enforced by law.

84 CORONA AND CORONET

Dwellings on the Hilo road are simple to primi-
tiveness, but with unfailingly attractive grounds,
often laid out by those consummately artistic
landscape gardeners, the Japanese. Garden walls
covered with a happy riot of nasturtiums ; walks
and steps of tree-fern trunks, brown and elastic ;
wide verandas, even if the house might boast but
a single room, furnish the foreground ; while lux-
uriant forests, laced in a tangle of lusty vines,
approach close behind the little ranches.

One tiny house not over ten feet square was
nearly smothered in rankly gorgeous vegetation :
roses blooming lavishly, tall begonias in full
flower, hedges of callas, tree ferns, floripo7ida,
coffee plants, wild roses, bananas, ohia, actual
trees of coleus — all thriving in very wantonness
of summer life, hid roof and veranda in clinging
embraces. Manifestly belonging to a coffee plan-
tation, a sign on the gate announced that "the
owner does not wish to show this coffee, but any
gentleman desirous to learn, and not actuated by
motives of curiosity, can see it by application to "
some one within.

All the ranches were named, in the soft, inver-
tebrate native words. Letter boxes stand at
gates, wide open for incoming or outgoing mail.
Nothing is lost.

At a little inn halfway to Hilo, where luncheon
was served in the open air, the entire party were

KILAUEA 85

greatly exercised, not to say profoundly shocked,
by a small child of the Portuguese couple in charge.
This promising youth, eldest of three, was just
two years old, in a white cambric dress and big
sunbonnet, with innocent blue eyes and flaxen
hair ; yet that depraved infant was an experienced
smoker ! Holding between his rosy lips the
stump of a cigar abandoned by some guest, he
sauntered past the newest comers, puffing vigor-
ously at what remained, occasionally with two
dimpled baby fingers removing it from his lips
with the air of a smoker of fifty, while he blew
uncertain spirals into the sunny air. The child's
father seemed to think it an unusual accomplish-
ment— in which opinion we were gladly unani-
mous ; but he could not be made to understand
its danger, only smiling foolishly at remonstrance.
The pale little Portuguese mother hardly appre-
ciated the Doctor's energetic remarks, though she
finally caused the cigar to be taken away, whereat
the child wept dismally, with rising anger, and
refused reconciliation.

Primeval tropic forests crept up to the inn on
three sides, and the mynah bird was ubiquitous.
A large bird with conspicuous white spots on its
wings, imported years ago from Jamaica, in hope
of eliminating certain destructive ground-worms,
it has at last filled the islands. Flitting decora-
tively about among the green was a little scarlet

86 CORONA AND CORONET

bird called elepaio from its song ; and the native
omaoy greenish in hue, sang a full, liquid note.

On this side of the island it rains so much that
two hundred and thirty inches often fall in a year,
so the owner of a coffee plantation assured us.
A greater contrast certainly could hardly be im-
agined than this " mad extravagance and splendid
luxury of nature," and the barren coast skirted by
the Hall in reaching Punaluu — a landscape of
lava-flows.

With tropical sunshine by day, it was never-
theless the big fireplace which attracted us at
evening. The last before returning to Honolulu
brought music, a little dancing, extracts read from
guest -books full of odd and interesting entries,
and a story or two, told as the logs burnt into
glowing red coals, and stars came forth in sudden
clearness from a misty sky.

Later, the last vestige of fog disappeared,
Mauna Kea's rugged peak rose in the distance,
and grand Mauna Loa came forth unshrouded.
Behind his majestic shoulder Jupiter was setting
close to a crescent moon, and almost unearthly
stillness lay over the world. Far below the cra-
ter was smoking vigorously, and close at hand
the ground at every pore breathed white steam,
quickly absorbed into a dry and silent night.
Grass and ferns were full of insects singing or
chirping or scraping their nocturnal music — little

KILAUEA 87

songs in the grass which, emphasizing the silence,
might have seemed in far-away Massachusetts,
but for the surrounding scene, so foreign to that
placid land. Yet even here, on distant Hawaii,

** A minor nation celebrates
Its unobtrusive mass,"

and the same sky overarches alL

CHAPTER X

A POI LUNCHEON

Those palates who ....

Must have inventions to delight the taste.

Pericles, i. 4.

As rice is the national dish of Japan, so a
certain vegetable concoction already mentioned,
called poi, has that high distinction in Hawaii.
Prepared in a variety of ways, each, to the aver-
age visitor, is less alluring than the other.

When the members of a native family are seen
happily clustered about a large central bowl, dip-
ping contentedly therefrom with two fingers
(under some circumstances three) a viscous sub-
stance of nondescript color, which seems largely
composed of an indifferent quality of yeast and
mucilage, one may be tolerably sure they are in-
dulging in the questionable delights of this deli-
cacy,

A charming invitation to partake of a poi
luncheon, given in our honor, and under most
delightful circumstances, had been accepted at a
ranch on the way back to Punaluu. Perhaps the
unfavorable verdict on a nation's staple might be
reversed.

A POI LUNCHEON 89

In a radiantly sunny morning good-bys were
said to Kilauea's height, and the old stage, saddle
horses and riders, and two adventurous pedes-
trians started downward, past dewy wild roses,
accompanied by countless bird-songs under a sap-
phire sky. So distinct was the crater floor, seven
hundred feet below, that its very lava wrinkles
could be seen ; the sulphur cracks steamed inces-
santly close at hand, but the slopes of Mauna
Loa lay clear and unveiled in early sunshine,
without so much as a bit of hanging cirrus on the
crown to suggest a lingering suspicion that his
great fires might still be ready to spring forth in
renewed splendor. The mighty mountain grew
more impressive with every hour ; and a belt of
cloud halfway up the peak added to the apparent
height of Mauna Kea.

Vegetation became more scarce as Volcano
House was left farther behind on the road to
Kapapala Ranch. Pele's scarlet flowers on their
scrubby trees glowed finely in the morning bright-
ness, and young shoots low on the ground, called
by the natives liko lehuay showed all their top-
most leaves in no less brilliant masses. Small
blue flowers known as ioi grew on tall stalks all
the rough way, and songs and stories varied the
jolting ride.

An oasis amid volcanic desolation, the Ranch
seemed a charmed spot, even lovelier than at our

90 CORONA AND CORONET

first visit. Within its outer gate bright green
grass and a few old trees greeted eyes weary of
endless acres of pahoehoe ; still farther, the house
nestled in gardens like some tropic flower. Fuch-
sias hung their blossoms high above our heads,
avenues of tall coleus led into mazy labyrinths of
bloom, and friendly welcomes awaited us on shady
verandas.

For the benefit of guests unaccustomed to Ha-
waiian ceremonies, everything was done in a
style as distinctively native as might be consist-
ent with comfort. In an imu (underground oven)
beyond the garden, young pigs and chickens
had been cooking for two or three hours, del-
icately wrapped in ki (or ti) leaves against red-
hot stones, between layers of vegetables — the
whole covered with earth. Men, experts in an
art now dying out, were removing from the pit
the various edibles so daintily cooked that they
hardly held in shape while transported to the
house.

Luncheon was served on the wide lanai (ve-
randa), each chair being thickly draped with leis.
Roses were everywhere, an undesirable insect
which has nearly exterminated Honolulu roses not
then having reached Hawaii. To be thoroughly
native, the company should have had no chairs,
but it was not deemed necessary to submit the
guests to so thoroughly un-American a position

A POI LUNCHEON

as sitting flat upon the floor ; so that single detail
was omitted.

The luncheon was lavish, even without refer-
ence to poiy served in various forms. The proper
method of eating it with two fingers from a bowl
was successfully imitated ; still, though more pal-
atable than before, one of the guests continued
to regard this vegetable with suspicion. Its color
is against it, granite gray not being an attractive
tint in articles of diet.

Under the inspiration of the feast many pictur-
esque tales of life in the old days were told.
Hours for state calls were from three o'clock in
the morning until nine or ten, and royalty wore
superb capes and helmets of yellow feathers.
Each bird (the 0-0) had but two tiny tufts of these
feathers under its black wings ; and as this dec-
oration began to extend gradually to persons of
lower rank than chiefs, the plumage soon became
very scarce. When the bird was caught and
his golden ornaments pulled out, he was set free,
without that slaughter of innocents practiced in
more civilized lands. As time went on, flowers
for personal decoration came into general use,
thus probably originating the graceful custom
now shared by all classes of wearing green or
flowery lets.

Young girls of high family attended missionary
schools, being taught many useful arts and pre-

92 CORONA AND CORONET

cepts ; one maiden was especially impressed by
three rules of conduct : in after life she must
neither dance nor drink wine, nor must she do
anything without her husband's permission.

When this little Hawaiian girl, married soon
after leaving school, arrived in Honolulu as the
bride of a chieftain, the Queen waited upon her
at dewy dawn (while the bridegroom paid his re-
spects to the King), inviting her to breakfast at
the palace — a gracious royal command. But
true to training, she replied that while it would
give her the greatest pleasure to accept, she could
not do so without first asking her husband — a
form of answer entirely novel in all the royal ex-
perience.

When healths were drunk at state banquets, the
little bride still remembered her instructions, and
refrained from touching her glass, a surprising
performance to the king, at whose side she sat.
But when the young husband finally learned of
these eccentricities, he speedily reduced the three
rules to one, no less definite. Hastening at the
next banquet to obey him when a health was
toasted, she innocently drank the whole contents
of her glass at once. The remainder of that feast
now lies in her mind as but a confused shadow of
memory.

A charming little boy in whose veins runs the
blood of many nationalities had listened all his

A POI LUNCHEON 93

life to tales of past days told him by an old chief ;
he repeated many of them after luncheon in his
sweet, childish voice, the following one written as
he narrated it, in his own words : —

"The son of King Kamehameha shot a great
many arrows at the bread-fruit trees, which took
away their juice and spoiled them. So he had to
be sent away to the island of Lanai, and there he
found some hobgoblins who planned to kill him.
They asked him where he was going to sleep that
night, and he said, *In the big waves.' So in the
night they went out to the big waves, but could
not find him, and were drowned.

*^ In the morning the others asked him why he
did not sleep, as he had said, in the big waves ; and
he replied they were so large he decided to sleep in
the little waves. The next night they asked him
and he said, * In the big thorns.' So they went
after him, and a good many were stuck on the
big thorns and killed. And when the survivors
asked him in the morning why he was not there,
he said, *The little thorns were more comfortable.'
Then he decided they must be trying to kill him ;
so the next night he got the rest of the hobgob-
lins into a house, and they thought it must be for
some grand entertainment ; and then he stuck all
their eyes together with breadfruit and burned up
the house.

** So after that he was safe."

94 CORONA AND CORONET

As the pleasant shadows lengthened, kindly
friends gathered under the trees at the gate, send-
ing cheery aloha (farewells) far down the grassy
road, as the uncertain stage bore us once more
to the outer barren. Surrounded by friends and
flowers, a deep -blue tropical sea, vast volcanic
mountain slopes, and the soft, sweet atmosphere
of enchanted Hawaii, even poi became poetic in
retrospect.

Again we were in sight of the blossoming
white poppies of Pahala, the rusty little engine
having waited until we chose to arrive. The sea
stretched blue to the horizon, white surf still
tumbled grandly on the black beach; and after
Ah He's appetizing supper, another exciting trip
through the breakers (again, a so-called "quiet"
sea, which merely did not wholly capsize the
boats) brought us on board the Hall, peacefully
anchored beyond the rush and roar of waters and
encircling reefs. All night our steady way was
ploughed northward, past the barren Hawaiian
shores toward our first landing the next afternoon.

Near the beach at Kailua lie the ruins of a lava
fort, built by Kuakani long ago ; and great Kame-
hameha the First once lived here in a grass hut,
on the site of which Kuakini (called by foreigners
Governor Adams) built later a house of lava and
cement, the broken walls of which are still stand-'
ing. Once a large native population filled this

A POI LUNCHEON 95

town, and a missionary church, whose square
tower rises near at hand, is the first built on the
island. A large house with double verandas is
still the property of the Queen Dowager Kapio-
lani, widow of Kalakaua.

But in addition to historic remains, as we sipped
cups of tea in the shade of an airy lanai, we wit-
nessed a unique sight — the apparently cruel
native method of bringing half-tamed cattle on
board for shipment to Honolulu. Confined in
small pens or yards on the beach, one or two at
a time are first lassoed ; and with men on horse-
back in front dragging them with jnain strength
by a rope attached to their horns, others behind
cracking long whips, the terrified creatures are
driven, galloping madly, into the surf, and forced
to swim out to small boats waiting beyond the
breakers. Tied to the edge by their horns, still in
the water, usually eight on each gunwale, they
are rowed slowly out to the steamer, and hoisted
on board by block and tackle. Half-drowned and
quite subdued by fear and pain, they stand in
long, shivering lines, on the lower deck ; if a horn
breaks off or pulls out, no matter. They will be
killed in a few days.

Native houses and straggling vegetation, with
great Hualalai rising over eight thousand feet in
the background, afforded characteristic setting
for the lively scenes on the beach. Natives in

96 CORONA AND CORONET

big, picturesque hats wreathed with flowers were
riding recklessly back and forth on high saddles, a
variety of animals were adding their own voices to
a composite chorus, — squeaking, crowing, neigh-
ing, bellowing, squealing, — and children covered
the sand ; it was a gala day. Palms stood up tall
and tropical in the warm air, and soft-lying cloud
began to drift low down on the mountain-side.

Great lava-flows and barren shores on the home-
ward trip looked more familiar since we had pene-
trated the very heart of a country strange with
sharp contrasts and endless charm. And now we
were leaving it — to Hawaii's weird island good-
by; with its grimness, its sublimity, its steaming
promises and fiery fulfillments, its tropic beauty
and black devastation, a long good-by.

CHAPTER XI

WITH KATE FIELD

Death is the crown of life.

Young.

A fiery soul, which, working out its way,

Fretted the pigmy body to decay

And o'er informed the tenement of clay.

Dkyden.

At Kaawaloa more cocoanut - palms and na-
tives ; and a small boat put off from shore, bring-
ing Miss Field on board, weary with arduous
research into the condition of the native island-
ers. Lack of proper food and attention, a se-
vere cold contracted through exposure to varying
temperatures at different altitudes, and gen-
eral fatigue had left obvious traces on her pale
face.

" Riding too hard," the purser said, after he
had shown her to the stateroom she had re-
served.

Miss Field's wide acquaintance, the interest in
her felt in all parts of the world, and constant
questions as to her last hours on earth have
caused the hope that as I was with her during
that memorable time, although an experience of

98 CORONA AND CORONET

deep pathos amid prevailing light-heartedness, its
narration may not prove inharmonious, but wel-
come, even if sadly so, to many hearts.

Comfortably settled in her berth, Miss Field
asked that our good Doctor, whose merciful ser-
vice was in constant demand for ills more or
less serious, should come in to advise about her
health. Very serious after his few moments'
chat, he reported that she would enjoy seeing a
caller. Having had but slight acquaintance with
her, I nevertheless accepted her invitation, being
warmly, even enthusiastically greeted. Extreme
pallor had given way to bright but feverish color.
To an unprofessional eye she looked better.

" Oh," she exclaimed, *' it is such comfort to
be on a boat again, though I usually hate a boat ;
but to be going somewhere actually again, and to
see white people once more, and up-to-date white
people at that ! I have seen natives, natives,
until I am completely worn out !" — her naturally
brilliant manner beginning to reassert itself.

" Talk about the quiet and pleasures of the
country," she went on. *' It 's the noisiest place
on earth — chickens cackling, roosters crowing,
dogs barking at all hours ! "

The natives themselves and the political situa-
tion she discussed warmly.

"Too much education of the masses," she as-
serted. " The public school system is responsi-

^&^ ^ff^

/Toc^-^c^j^^

WITH KATE FIELD 99

ble for a great deal of evil, just as it is in Amer-
ica."

" On the frequently quoted principle," said her
companion, *' that it spoils a great many good
cooks, and makes a superfluity of poor teachers ?"

" Exactly," she answered. " It 's all a mistake.
But they are lovely, amiable people. I 've en-
joyed Hawaii, but I am pursued by Kamehame-
ha's fishponds. I can't strike any settlement on
the island but that one of those malarial holes is
pointed out to me.

" When I was at Kailua I did think they would
be intelligent enough to avoid them, but I had no
sooner arrived than I began to smell malaria, so
I knew there was another historic fishpond close
by."

She had evidently talked as much as she
ought, but as I rose to go she remonstrated.

"It's such a comfort to see you," she said,
pressing my hand. "I am only tired all out.
Riding all sorts of horses (for my own got a sore
back), and tramping over their lava beds and
looking into the condition of these natives. Rid-
ing astride is all right, but there can be too much
of it. Yes, I am too tired to do any more just
now."

She lay back with her cheeks very pink and
began to ask about our expedition to Japan, in
which she seemed greatly interested.

100 CORONA AND CORONET

In passing Keauhou, where Kamehameha the
Third was born, a handsome native came on
board to see Miss Field. There is no white fam-
ily in the town, and the Hawaiians there called
her Kela wahine naanao (that learned woman).
He did not remain long on board, and she was
persuaded to rest quietly for a while. Toward
evening I made another short call, during which
her characteristically sparkling way of putting
things was unusually manifest. As it grew dark,
a few native Hawaiians gathered on deck near
her door, singing sweet and plaintive melodies,
accompanied by guitar and ithtlele. I asked if it
disturbed her.

."Oh, no," she answered. ** Music is Paradise
to me, and I shall sleep all the better for it."

And, indeed, she did sleep through the even-
ing, apparently with much peacefulness ; but the
Doctor, seeing that she grew worse, stayed all
night by her side. About two o'clock a decided
change occurred, and early in the beautiful morn-
ing he told me that he had been fighting for her
life ever since she came on board, obstinate pneu-
monia his antagonist. With little hope, from the
first, of conquering, he had continued to give her
stimulants on the chance of sustaining the slight
strength remaining. He thought she must have
had the disease for several days, while still ex-
posed to constant hard riding and all tempera-

WITH KATE FIELD loi

tures. Naturally it had made irrevocable head-
way.

The truth was very hard for me to tell her —
that in all human probability she must die before
another sunset. Miss Field listened in almost a
dazed way at first. Then she said, —

" Yes, yes — give me time. I must think of
so many things." She lay back for a moment in
strange stupor, while I quietly waited. At last,
arousing her gently, —

" Miss Field, you would better tell me the
names and addresses of any friends to whom you
would like to have me write," I said, wishing
fervently to aid in some strong way the ener-
getic soul still struggling to keep manifold inter-
ests within a loosening grasp.

" Yes, yes, I must," she replied, giving me an
address in Washington, which she spelled out
carefully and accurately. Then she began to
dictate a letter, clearly enough at first, but soon
confused.

** It will need a lot of editing," she finally said
wearily, while fragmentary sentences relative to
her work for the Chicago " Times-Herald " fell
at intervals. The Doctor continued stimulants,
but she sank more and more deeply into uncon-
sciousness.

All through the morning she aroused a little
as I spoke, but it was evident that she was rap-

CORONA AND CORONET

idly dying, and her breathing became very la-
bored. As we passed Maui she suddenly opened
her eyes and looked out. The cliffs are bold
and rugged, and the mountains very impressive,
with cloud-shadows chasing over them, and be-
tween island and steamer lay a bright blue strip
of white-capped sea.

" Oh, how beautiful ! " she exclaimed, and for
a moment her eyes brightened clearly.

Holding her hot hand, and longing unspeak-
ably to give her a little human love to reach
heaven on, I sat there all the sunny, sparkling
morning. A few necessary addresses and bits of
practical information were plucked at intervals
out of the rising tide of death's lethargy, when
suddenly Miss Field looked up with entire nat-
uralness.

" What did you say was the name of your ex-
pedition, and what are you going for 1 "

"The Amherst eclipse expedition," I replied,
''and we go to Japan to observe a total eclipse of
the sun August 9th."

" The Amherst eclipse expedition," she said
brightly ; and those were her last words on
earth.

She simply slept more and more soundly as
her soul drifted farther out on unknown waters.
All this time the captain of the Hall had been
pushing the steamer to the utmost, to reach

WITH KATE FIELD 103

Honolulu if possible before Miss Field should
die.

As we neared the harbor all her scattered be-
longings were put together, — saddle, whip, walk-
ing-shoes all scratched and scarred with rough
lava — even her possessions looked tired and
helpless, lonely and discouraged. We landed
much ahead of usual time.

Soon after the Hall came alongside the wharf,
a stretcher was brought from the Adams, upon
which Miss Field was tenderly carried to the resi-
dence of Dr. McGrew, a friend who had been
very kind during her entire stay in the city. In
a beautiful open cottage under the palms in his
grounds, she peacefully stopped breathing a few
minutes later — a sad home coming for us to
our fair Coronet.

Next day a large and appreciative company
gathered in the Central Union Church, to say
good-by to the earthly presence of this bright
woman who had yielded her life pathetically in
behalf of a strange people. As the casket, heaped
with tropical flowers, was carried out, the organ
softly played " Home, Sweet Home," and thought
of her real home, after years of brave and unremit-
ting effort, brought unaccustomed tears. Miss
Field had never acknowledged herself defeated,
and who shall call this unfinished work and lonely
death defeat — in face of an illimitable future ?

CHAPTER XII

A MID -PACIFIC COLLEGE

Tutor'd in the rudiments
Of many desperate studies.

Shakespeare, As You Like It, v. 4.

With our last days in Honolulu, the fifty-fifth
year of Oahu College was closing ; for so early
in the history of their peaceful conquest of the
islands, begun in 1820, did the fathers of civili-
zation think it necessary to broaden their educa-
tional resources.

Liliha, wife of Boki, the then ruler of Oahu,
was evidently a woman of force, if also of energy
misdirected. Plotting to overthrow and remodel
everything in general, the government incident-
ally, she has left a somewhat unenviable record.
But feeling on one occasion unexpectedly gen-
erous, she joined her husband in presenting to
missionaries the site for Punahou school, now
Oahu College. Barren and unproductive then,
no one could have foreseen its present tropic
beauty. Liliha's portrait represents her leaning
affectionately upon the shoulder of her lord — he
in mighty helmet, she in a necklace of human

BOKI, RULER OF OAHU IN 1820, AND LILIHA HIS WIFE

A MID-PACIFIC COLLEGE 105

hair. Of the two, her face is decidedly the
stronger.

From its modest beginning fifty-five years be-
fore, the institution has steadily grown in scope
and influence. And now another building was
to be dedicated to high ideals, — beautiful Pau-
ahi Hall, yet one more gift of the Hon. C. R.
Bishop, whose liberality seems limitless. The
ceremonies were held in the new hall, on the
evening of the 21st of May. The fine building
of native stone, with its semi-tropical style of
architecture, the brilliant electric lights, the
polished hard-wood interior finish, and the paint-
ings, etchings, casts, and books, and the band
of musicians, were far from presenting what the
average American would have imagined a typical
scene of mid-Pacific civilization.

The Rev. Daniel Dole landed on the island,
2 1st of May, 1841, and began his work of in-
struction and enlightenment. A school was
opened the same year, with a small class of chil-
dren, in a little adobe building a few yards east
of where Dole Hall, built in 1848, now stands;
and this was the real beginning, the birthplace,
of Punahou School and Oahu College, of which
Mr. Dole was one of the founders and the first
head. This ripe scholar and Christian gentleman,
father of the late President of the Hawaiian Re-
public, gave an impetus and tone to the school

io6 CORONA AND CORONET

which caused its pupils to take high rank in
whatever college they might subsequently enter
in the United States. Habits of accuracy and
literary taste were as valuable then as now, and
these were bestowed in liberal measure at Puna-
hou. The name means "new spring," and this
it became in all senses. The high thinking of
those early days must have meant very plain liv-
ing, for the pupils paid but fifty cents a week for
their board.

A permanent schoolhouse was opened on the
nth of July, 1842, — a building of one story,
the ground plan like the letter E, inclosing two
square courts, with schoolroom in the centre.
This building, also of adobe, its timbers and raft-
ers of wood from lovely Manoa Valley, roof of
thatch from Round Top, and plaster and white-
wash from coral limestone and sand of Kewalo
reefs, was purely a native product. An opening
with about a dozen pupils between the ages of
seven and twelve was not a very striking inaug-
uration, but it marked the happy point when
children would no longer have to be sent around
the Horn for an American education, spending
years away from lonely parents.

In 1854 the school became a college, not with
rank corresponding to Yale or Amherst or Wil-
liams, but carrying the student about to the
junior year of those institutions, and equipping

A MID-PACIFIC COLLEGE 107

him with peculiar fitness for the more liberal
development which they could offer. In 1863
nearly one hundred and thirty acres of the land
of Punahou, with buildings and improvements,
were deeded to the trustees of Oahu College. Its
most constant and generous patron has been Mr.
Bishop, whose devotion to the interests of the in-
stitution as well as to every noble cause in the
islands is a conspicuous factor in its history and
success.

By 1864, when President Mills resigned, the
college had been placed upon a self-supporting
basis, though the genuine and happy turning-
point in its fortunes occurred in 1881 at the cele-
bration of its fortieth anniversary, when a large
fund was raised by alumni and friends. In 1 882
another large sum was added to the building
fund, and the following year the main building
was erected, in 1884 the Bishop Hall of Science,
and in 1885 the new President's House. By 1889
the endowment fund received $$6,000, of which
about two thirds had been given by Mr. Bishop.

Shortly after Mr. Frank A. Hosmer, of the
class of 1875 ^t Amherst College, became Presi-
dent, the semi-centennial was appropriately cele-
brated, in 1 89 1. The orator of that occasion
was the late and well -beloved General Arm-
strong, who in a brilliant and characteristic
speech gave many incidents of old days when

io8 CORONA AND CORONET

he was a Punahou boy; while Professor Alex-
ander, the distinguished historian of the islands,
and for seven years President of the college, told
its story in his own delightful manner.

Since then Oahu College and its preparatory
school have gone steadily forward, becoming
more of a power with every year. In 1893 Presi-
dent Hosmer suggested, in view of increasing
needs of the institution, that a new academic hall
be built ; plans and drawings were submitted by
various architects, every design, however, carry-
ing out the idea of a solid stone pier rising from
the foundation to form a tower for a telescope,
thus giving all possible stability to an elevated
observatory. A compromise between two of the
plans was made, the result being a very effec-
tive and handsome building costing a little less
than ;^8o,ooo, — another superb monument to
Mr. Bishop.

An island of volcanic rock, varied by a few
coral reefs around the edges, is not the most pro-
lific spot for good building materials, most of the
stone being porous and not impervious to water,
while the beautiful koa wood is so hard that it is
impracticable on account of expense of working it.
Since timber for all frame houses is brought from
the American coast, a comparatively simple house
is of much greater cost than in this country.
Many specimens of native stone were submitted

A MID-PACIFIC COLLEGE 109

for use in the new Pauahi Hall, and the building
committee finally accepted a compact gray stone
found at the entrance of Manoa Valley, not only
very handsome in itself, but giving evidence of
entire power to withstand water.

The grounds, with their mass of tropical foli*
age, the fine algaroba trees, and avenues of
palms, were in gala dress for the dedication cere^
monies, and the formal transference of Pauahi to
the college faculty. The address of the even-
ing was given by the distinguished President of
the Republic, the Hon. Sanford B. Dole, who
was greeted with prolonged and enthusiastic ap-
plause. His delightful speech was. full of the
best spirit of modern Hawaii, reaching always for
the highest, yet permeated throughout by the
poetry bequeathed from the older days.

After the address, the keys of the new build-
ing were delivered, with an interesting speech
by the Hon. W. R. Castle, to President Hosmer^
who responded with feeling tribute to those de-
voted men in the past who made possible the
development of to-day, a growth probably far be-
yond what they would have dared to dream in
the simple beginnings of their time. A fine
organ, presented by Mrs. S. N. Castle as a me-
morial to her husband, was played during the
evening, and there were selections by the Col-
lege Glee Club and an orchestra lately inaugu-
rated by the students.

no CORONA AND CORONET

The wonderful Hawaiian climate, never too
hot and never too cold, appeared that evening at
its best, and will always add its indefinable but
no less haunting charm to Oahu memories.

Strolling across the grounds under the tropical
foliage and by the light of swinging Japanese lan-
terns, we reached the President's House, where
an informal reception was held.

This only night on shore at Honolulu was fol-
lowed by a lovely morning, dewy and fragrant,
amid trees and vines, flowers and shrubs of the
college grounds, musical with bird-songs, and
recalling the choicest of New England's midsum-
mer dawns. A day full of meaning to Oahu
College was this last one for the students in the
old historic building, quite inadequate now, yet
full of tender association. Their feelings were
not of exultation merely, in entering a wider life
in modern environment. Eager and intelligent
faces, and the appreciative attention accorded a
short talk given them at prayers, betokened a
waiting future full of progress and achievement.

CHAPTER XIII

THE LEPERS OF MOLOKAI

But Sir Launfal sees naught save the gruesome thing,
The leper, lank as the rain-blanched bone
That cowers beside him, a thing as lone
And white as the ice-isles of Northern seas
In the desolate horror of his disease.

LowKLL, The Vision of Sir Launfal.

Sir Launfal "gave the leper to eat and
drink," and despite the poverty of his repast, it
seemed to the gray and gruesome recipient like
fine bread and red wine —

" For a god goes with it, and makes it store
To the soul that was starving in darkness before."

And notwithstanding their ignorance and un-
cleanness, the Hawaiian lepers are treated with
care and generosity deserving more than grate-
ful recognition from a glorified community. In-
deed, it is said that life on Molokai is now con-
sidered so desirable by many natives that they
have been known to feign the disease in order to
be taken there, supported by the Government in
ease and idleness.

Leprosy, not indigenous but imported, was
first observed in the islands in 1853. When its

112 CORONA AND CORONET

spread, in 1865, was thought alarming, an act
was passed isolating cases in separate establish-
ments. A year later about one hundred and
forty were sent to Molokai, but rules were not
very strictly enforced. If one only of a mar-
ried couple developed the disease, the other was
allowed to go also to Molokai. On accession of
King Lunalilo in 1873, strenuous efforts were
made by his new cabinet to carry into effect a
law of absolute seclusion, and over five hundred
persons were sent to the settlement. This of
course excited bitter opposition, but it was in
line with the enlightened policy of this monarch,
who lived to reign only a little over a year.

Now, although healthy wives or husbands may
not accompany their diseased consorts to the set-
tlement, marriages on Molokai among the lepers
themselves are not forbidden. Some children
born in that retreat are actually healthy, and
without trace of the dread disease. When on
their official visits the Board of Health bring
back to Honolulu all such cases, if the parents
consent, and they are reared and educated away
from infection. Often they do not develop lep-
rosy at all in after years. If the unmistakable
signs appear, they must return to their birth-
place. What a weird and terrible meeting be-
tween parents and children so tragically re-
united!

THE LEPERS OF MOLOKAI 113

When the Board of Health start for Molokai,
heartrending scenes often occur as the steamer
is about to sail, — friends and relatives of lepers
crowd the gangway, begging permission to visit
afflicted comrades. But quarantine is necessa-
rily strict and unswerving.

Without seeing practical means of gratifying
his desire, the Doctor had always hoped to visit
the leper settlement. He remarked pathetically
that any suggestion of his wish was far from
popular on board the Coronet, being met either
with stern silence, or browbeating and discour-
agement, — even by assurance that he would
certainly be thrown overboard upon his return,
should he finally succeed in reaching Molokai,
goal of his hopes.

But in this often unreasonable world where
Fortune brazenly chooses her favorites regard-
less of merit, sterling worth, probably by mis-
take, is sometimes rewarded. One of the cus-
tomary tours of the Board was due a day or two
before the Coronet set sail for Japan, the good
Doctor received a cordial invitation to join the
medical men on their trip, and regardless of a
dire fate upon his return he accepted with alac-
rity.

Upon the unfortunate lepers Government
spends annually 1^150,000, or one tenth of its en-
tire income. The Doctor's own journal, which

114 CORONA AND CORONET

he has kindly given me, is only second in inter-
est to a personal visit. He rowed away from the
Coronet on the 22d May, ..." after receiving all
sorts of warnings and good counsels, and scram-
bled up on the wharf of the Inter-Island Steam
Navigation Company. Already a few passengers
had arrived, and some officers of the Board of
Health were there to keep back the natives, who
were beseeching in Hawaiian, vainly attempting
to secure passage to see their friends and rela-
tives on the island. It was a pitiful sight, — the
dearest ties of life severed by imported disease,
and Molokai, so near and yet so far, forever un-
visited except by acquiring the dread malady.
Their appeals, addressed to each officer in turn,
could be met by nothing but the prompt refusal
of a strict quarantine.

"Dr. Emerson, head and front of the arrange-
ments, gave me my pass, — which stated that
I went for scientific purposes, — and then we
pushed on our way up the gang plank.

"The leper settlement had a great deal of inter-
est to me medically, but I had become acquainted
with the disease only through scanty textbooks.
To me as much as to one of the laity it repre-
sented an unclean and unattractive malady, and
although I had no fear of contagion, I anticipated
that my sympathy would be strongly roused.
Not knowing how the disease would appear, I felt

THE LEPERS OF MOLOKAI 115

I should be glad to have the inspection of the
first unfortunate over, so that I could study its
effects in different stages without morbid interest.

**The steamer anchored at 5.30 a. m., about a
quarter of a mile from the shore. As I looked
from my stateroom window I could see lepers
congregated on shore, and surrounded by saddled
horses, ready for our service. The settlement,
composed of neat white frame houses, looked
more attractive than many coast towns of these
islands.

** A band in white uniforms played characteris-
tic native melodies, adding an element of melan-
choly which well suited the scene ; for these
people were trying to make the best of an op-
portunity afforded by the semi-annual tour of
inspection. To them it meant a gala day, to us
a sorry spectacle.

"After breakfast we were rowed ashore, and
on reaching the wharf I caught my first glimpse
of a leper. A small boy about twelve years old
was comfortably seated on a rock. His face was
rounded and enlarged, yet withered. His eyes,
deep set beneath knotted eyebrows, and the nose
(partly because the bones were destroyed, and
partly from contrast with the swollen cheeks)
looked almost lacking. His mouth, represented
by a slit, was opened and shut when talking, in
a peculiarly lifeless manner, and hypertrophied

ii6 CORONA AND CORONET

ears hung down like diminutive elephant' s-ears.
On drawing nearer I saw that his face was cov-
ered with tubercles varying in size from a pea to
a bantam's ^ggy giving the appearance of a target
for mischievous boys' putty balls. Eyebrows
and eyelashes had fallen out ; hands and feet
were swollen, and the ring and little fingers of
each hand had fallen off to their bases, while
both great toes were bandaged as if in the same
process of decay. Soon we were near enough to
see similar characteristics in a hundred faces.

" On landing we walked to the so-called club-
house, and while the officers of the Board of
Health proceeded to business, the rest of us sat
upon the porch, admired by a motley crowd of
lepers, and entertained by the band, which played
very well. It consists of ten musicians, some of
whom belonged to the old Royal Band, and the
leader still appeared in a cap with embroidered
crown which he wore in his former proud posi-
tion. He was a good-looking fellow, and bore
no evidence of disease at this distance. All the
rest were unmistakable lepers, and the man who
played the flageolet was grotesquely horrible.
Some of the instruments were fingered by hands
which seemed too deformed to be useful. The
bass horn was held by pressure of the arm
against the body, as the player's left hand was so
withered and drawn out of shape that it was use-

THE LEPERS OF MOLOKAI 117

less ; and as he had but two good fingers on his
right hand, they had to be shifted in managing
the three stops of the instrument. Another mu-
sician had lost an eye, and one limped as if his
foot were nearly gone ; while taken as a whole,
the distorted faces gave a weird background to
the performance.

" The assistant superintendent has been on the
island as a leper for twenty years. He has the
anaesthetic form, showing no tubercles or lost
members ; but his face was shiny, sunken, and
like wax. When talking, his lower jaw dropped,
and to close his mouth a distorted hand was
pressed against the chin.

** The yard was packed with horses, and by nine
o'clock lepers crowded amongst us, eagerly offer-
ing their horses for us to ride across the country,
a distance of six miles. Doctor Emerson saw that
I secured a good horse, and our party cantered
away. It was a delightful ride, although each of
us was on a leper's horse, in a leper's saddle,
and handling the same reins that the diseased
hands of a leper had handled ; we forgot about it
in the pleasure of the moment. Away above us
rose a sheer precipice, and to the left lay the sea,
making natural barriers shutting in the settle-
ment.

" The Baldwin Home for boys is a neat little
village, named for Mrs. Baldwin, who gave $5000

Ii8 CORONA AND CORONET

for its foundation. To this the Government has
added ;^ioooand superintended the building of
a pretty quadrangle. The frame dormitories ac-
commodate eight or ten boys each, and in the
centre of the square is a grass plot. The Gov-
ernment has great pride in the neatness of this
home, and has spent much money in planting
trees and shrubs about it.

" The authorities took pleasure in pointing out
the comfortable arrangements, frequently stop-
ping to indicate some of the worst cases, which
all look more or less alike ; but one young boy
I shall never forget, with face so enlarged by tu-
berosities that his whole head appeared tremen-
dous. His lips were so thickened and hardened
as to make them from one to one and one half
inches in thickness, and when they parted in
talking the appearance was that of a wooden
mechanism in action. The corners of his mouth
became continuous with deep furrows in either
cheek which made the mouth apparently of huge
dimensions, extending into the middle of his
cheeks. This with elongated ears and knotted
face gave him an effect which I could liken to
nothing human, but rather to a Chinese god of
war. His small body corresponded poorly with
the monstrous head and facial senility.

" Brother Button was introduced to me here,
where he has made his home for the last eight

THE LEPERS OF MOLOKAI 119

years, in service of the lepers. He has done a
great deal to make their lives happier and to ar-
range details of the home. Nobody knows what
led him to take up this life, but it is reported by
gossip that he was disappointed in love, or per-
haps he committed some crime for which his
conscience is now making him do penance. He
is about forty years old, and his services are ren-
dered without inducement or remuneration.

"Father Damien's tomb stands across the road
beside the church he made with his own hands.
He died of the disease contracted while minister-
ing here.^

** On the way back we visited the crater of an
extinct volcano, and reaching the club-house we
found luncheon, sent ashore from the Iwalani.
Then I strolled into the female quarters, only to
find arrangements the neatest and most attrac-
tive on the island. This portion of the work is
overseen by four Catholic sisters from Syracuse,
New York, with their Mother Superior. Their
handiwork is apparent in all the dormitories, and
their influence in the figures of two young girls
kneeling before the miniature altar of the chapel.
The sister who guided me about responded very
politely to my questions, and I could not but ad-
mire her quiet and attractive manner.

1 Another monument in his honor sent by the Prince of
Wales stands near the main landing.

CORONA AND CORONET

**In one of the dormitories I found the only
example of suffering which I saw at Molokai.
The patient was middle-aged, her frame literally
wasted to a skeleton. She had not long to live,
and her labored breathing was exaggerated by
a wheezing which comes when membranes of
throat and nose are attacked ; but a sorrier sight
was her leper companion, who tried to support
and fan her with crippled and bandaged hands.

"The Board of Health were busy all day.
Twice a year they are compelled to examine all
children born here. Those pronounced clean are
taken away, if the parents wish it, but their con-
sent is not always obtained.

" It was pitiful to see some of the young boys
and girls on whom leprous spots were beginning
to show, but to them it is only expected; and
they have seen no other world than this. Mr.
Mills and I went the rounds thoroughly, and as
we had some time to spare took another horse-
back ride. Two lepers accompanied us on either
side as guides.

"The settlement occupies six thousand acres of
fertile land, where the large town of Kalaupapa
was originally located, and includes the valley
of Waikolu and the village of Kalawao. Sur-
rounded by the sea on three sides, it is shut off
on the fourth, toward the south, by cliffs two
or three thousand feet high, — a beautiful spot

THE LEPERS OF MOLOKAI 121

which would do credit to a more attractive popu-
lation.

" Rations are given out generously, and as no
work is required, the lazy Hawaiian temperament
is well suited. Their love of horses is gratified
lavishly, for there are two horses for each man.
To all outward appearance the lepers are better
cared for than they would be at home ; and
as they have no fear of leprosy as a disease, and
contract it by their own neglect and filthiness,
they also gradually die without pain or worry.

** The painless character of this disease is cer-
tainly very fortunate. The first parts of the
body attacked are the nerves ; so that horrible
deformities and loss of members surely accom-
plish their result, though with no discomfort,
such as would be expected.

"I left the lepers of Molokai with less sym-
pathy than I had anticipated ; but as the band
played our farewell, I_ was saddened by the
thought of their failure to realize their miser-
able condition."

On this return trip of the Iwalani twelve
"clean" children were brought back, who may
perhaps entirely escape the fate of their parents.

" ' Room for the leper ! Room ! * And as he came
The cry passed on, — * Room for the leper !
Room ! *

And aside they stood,

122 CORONA AND CORONET

Matron and child, and pitiless manhood, all
Who met him on his way, — and let him pass."

No such feeling as we have always connected
with this horrible disease, and which poets and
novelists have sometimes treated in ghastly fash-
ion, troubles the Hawaiian native. His lack of
dread is often the means of his contracting the
disease. Transmitted largely through the saliva,
all the members of a family, clean and unclean,
continue to dip their fingers in the common bowl
of poi. Unlike the white leprosy of Syria, this
form is, thus far, equally incurable. Its germ
has been found, and something may ultimately
be discovered to neutralize or destroy it. Curi-
ously enough, leprosy alone does not cause death,
though death usually comes sooner to those so
afflicted, because of its general weakening effect
on all the organs, rendering them peculiarly lia-
ble to give way under slight strain from other
diseases.

The Doctor returned almost without protest,
during the progress of a farewell reception on
the Coronet to some of the friends who had so
lavishly entertained its company on shore.

The deck was draped with Hawaiian and
American flags, and numberless pennants. Jap-
anese lanterns hung thickly along the awning
and among the green, while flowers and foliage
filled every available spot. Cozy corners with

THE LEPERS OF MOLOKAI 123

cushions and rugs appeared unexpectedly here
and there, the gig plied back and forth to the
wharf bringing guests, and a native orchestra
played softly through the enchanted evening.
Supper and dancing, songs and friendliness until
midnight ; and then the quiet of a luminous
tropical night, the Southern Cross dipping in the
sea, the sweet life of the island a memory.

Only a busy morning remained before the
long voyage. After luncheon, guests assembled
for good-bys. Huge baskets of fruit, enormous
stems of ripening bananas, flowers in countless
bouquets and nameless luxuriant masses covered
every spot, and a hundred leis were tossed over
hats and shoulders of the departing company,
until each prospective voyager resembled an ani-
mated tower of bloom.

Then with last farewells, a few lingering hand-
shakes from deck to dock — native boys all about
diving for dimes — we were off with dipping
colors from the Adams, and final salutes rever-
berating. Lifting her white wings to the sum-
mer wind, out through reefs and breaking surf
the Coronet took flight, over brilliant blue and
green and purple water into deep-sea indigo be-
yond.

President Dole accompanied us for a few miles
in his yacht, but when he had finally to turn
back, there were more dippings and salutes, with

124 CORONA AND CORONET

the Williams yell for him, and the Amherst
cheer for the expedition. Then the yachts
parted too far for sound of word, while Tantalus
and Punch Bowl and fair Diamond Head grew
indistinct — yet more misty with atmospheric
distance, and finally disappeared in gathering
twilight. With full hearts we said aloha to these
beautiful islands, already like home to each of us,
with their friendly faces, their pathetic music,
their gentle language like running water, their
unsolved problems, and their brooding charm.

CHAPTER XIV

FOUR WEEKS AT SEA

Alone, alone, all, all alone,
Alone in a wide, wide sea.

Coleridge, Ancient Mariner.

Illusion dwells forever with the wave.

Emerson, Sea-shore.

Westward and slightly south pointed the
graceful bow of the Coronet, ever nearer the
equator. A far southerly course would take full-
est advantage of the regular trade-winds ; but
before they were entirely upon us the days were
hot, quiet, tropically lovely, the glassy sea spread-
ing white and dreamy to a misty horizon. Now
and then a sunbeam struck through the prevail-
ing haze from some far-off rift, and then a spar-
kling line, miles away, lay like silent surf break-
ing on an invisible shore.

With sea- water at 80° F., our days began by a
plunge into the white bath-tank. Immediately
after breakfast the awning was put up, impos-
sible as it was to remain on deck a moment with-
out it, in the heat and often blinding sunshine ;
and the great boom, swung far out over the
water, was not shifted all day. Great was the

P26 CORONA AND CORONET

heat, and the bananas, hanging in the shade,
ripened apace — yet not too rapidly.

Always a surprise when mid-forenoon luncheon
appeared, regular tiffin at one seemed but a few
minutes later ; when the afternoon had appar-
ently but just begun, five o'clock tea was brought
on deck — chased by dinner. And then came
long, warm evenings under the brilliant stars.
Occasional sunsets were fine, but as a rule not as
gorgeous as on the Atlantic. Twilights grew
shorter, darkness following quickly after sunset.

" One sun by day, by night ten thousand shine,"

but superb moonlight paled the glory of the
Southern Cross rising higher above the horizon,
the brilliant Scorpion, and all the tropic skies.
Our nearest stellar neighbor. Alpha Centauri, be-
came a distinct point of a new firmament. The
nearest star ! And yet so far away that its light,
if starting toward us now for the first time,
would not reach the earth for over four years.
And proportionally our old friend Polaris sank
toward the northern sea-line with his tethered
constellations ; even the tried and trusted Dipper
descended alarmingly low, but at this season we
never quite lost it.

Night after night, in the warm darkness, the
infinite southern skies full of strange suns grew
in impressiveness and solemnity. As Kipling

FOUR WEEKS AT SEA 127

says of the marvelous Indian stars, they seemed
not "all pricked in on one plane," but preserved
their own perspective through the velvet black-
ness.

Distances and difficulties are never insur-
mountable to the modern astronomer, with his
sjDlendid mechanical equipments. He questions
the empyrean boldly, and little by little receives
answer from illimitable space. Old observers
contented themselves with studying motions and
places of heavenly bodies; with long midnight
vigils at their telescopes, and still longer compu-
tations, until every inhabitant of space that could
be seen by aid of their instruments had, in addi-
tion to its own appointed path and position in the
celestial vault, its corresponding place no less
definitely in their columns of figures. But they
knew nothing of what neighboring stars and
planets are made; even the constitution of the
sun was as a sealed book.

Now, the triumphant " new astronomy " lays
its daring finger on the most distant stars, find-
ing in Aldebaran and Betelgeux elemental sub-
stances not only identical with those closest to
us on earth, but blazing as well in the majestic
light of our own sun. Even the unformed nebu-
lae, ghostly tenants of cosmic space, perhaps
birthplace of systems yet to be, have yielded part
of their filmy secrets to the insistent spectroscope,

128 CORONA AND CORONET

and one by one the mysteries of the universe are
unfolding to the keen eyes and trained skill of
modern astronomy.

Once a galaxy of reticence, the chemistry of the
stars is now known to be generically the same as
that of the sun ; and depths of space unsounded
by the telescope are brought by celestial photo-
graphy to eager eyes of waiting astronomers. A
wonderful sensitiveness in photographic plates
takes cognizance of faintest light from unknown
suns blazing u.ncomprehended millions of miles
away, which no merely optical telescope, however
powerful, can show, and which encourages no
present hope that human eyes will ever be able
to visualize in future ages. The invisible is
brought before us with irrefutable evidence ; and
distant wanderers through the stellar void which
would otherwise have remained forever unseen
are discovered, caught, and held for all time.

*' Silent as death the awful spaces lie "

no less now than when to Immanuel Kant the
starry heavens above were, with the moral law
within, the most impressive concepts recognizable
by the human mind. Warm foregrounds of vil-
lages and fields, mountains and forests, soften and
make remote the solemnity of the nightly sky.
At sea each soul seems alone with eternal ver-
ities.

FOUR WEEKS AT SEA 129

Sundays were quiet days of blue and gold,
morning service read in the saloon as before,
well attended by the sailors ; and long after-
noons on the shaded deck, full of peace and liquid
silence.

Our sailing master pursued the even tenor of
his way, undisturbed by changes of crew forced
upon him at every port. The first mate had
joined the Coronet at San Francisco, a bluff
man with a mighty voice, and not above seizing
a halyard in his grasp of iron if he detected a bit
of lazy hauling among the men ; the second mate,
a fair-haired Russian, reliable and resourceful, is
now the Coronet's trusted first mate. The num-
ber of complicated knots which this amiable
Andrew tried faithfully to teach some of us to
tie, might have led to a profession in themselves.

Two quartermasters are charged with details
on board more than the other sailors : they see
that lights are in proper position, deck-chairs put
away at night and arranged in the morning, the
owner's "absent" flag and dinner-flags rightly
hoisted in port, and altogether they are respon-
sible for the minor etiquette of yachting.

Many new forecastle faces appeared on the
trip outward from Honolulu. Several who came
around the Horn in the Coronet had left at San
Francisco, while others dropped off at Honolulu,
— an uneasy class. The various names, how-

130

CORONA AND CORONET

ever, seemed to remain always on board, and the
Jims and Toms and Charlies were simply at-
tached to different personalities.

One sturdy little sailor was hardly taller than
the great wheel, seeming to command it with
ease in spite of the momentary impression that
it would take him in hand. Another was a typi-
cal stage-seaman, — young and handsome, with
dark eyes and fine features, tall and well-formed
as an athlete, with a throat like a strong white
column ; his bright and cheerful expression sug-
gested just having finished, or readiness to begin
some rollicking tenor solo before a waiting audi-
ence, about "joys of a sailor's life, yo-ho." But
he never did. Mother Goose's Simple Simon
daily helped to set sails, or scrub decks, or took
his turn at the wheel. When hauling on a hal-
yard he put in his whole soul, with facial results
appropriate to the instant of committing a com-
plicated murder. The same sailor who spun
great yarns remained on board, and his stories
grew as the voyage progressed. One day the
Doctor came aft, from an excursion to the bow,
and related a surgical tale deserving record.
Big Jim was apt to regard the profession of his
auditors.

" I was once thirteen months in a Bombay
hospital," he announced, "and at the end of that
time the doctors had to take six inches out of

FOUR WEEKS AT SEA 131

my backbone. So I never grew any more.
Stunted for life."

This story only failed of its best impressive-
ness because the victim was the tallest sailor on
board. Having warned some one reading on the
forward deck against such dangerous employ-
ment, Big Jim said, " Why, I used to read all the
time myself, and it made my eyes so bad I had
to go to a hospital and have 'em taken out and
scrubbed. The doctors found they could n't do
it well enough there, so they sent 'em away to be
cleaned, and I did n't get 'em back for three
months."

Days grew constantly hotter, a bird now and
then forming the chief incident in a wide sky,
although whales occasionally spouted or sharks
darted through the water, their sharp fins easily
recognizable ; once a series of fine water-spouts
swept our early morning horizon. No sails ap-
peared. If there were "ships that pass in the
night," they remained invisible.

But winds were at last with us, steady and
strong, and good runs were made, — the whole
voyage beautiful enough to last forever without
protest. Scrapbooks were brought up to date,
even to the aloha from Honolulu ; journals and
letters flourished, chess-players became finished
experts, decorations (in the shape of various pen-
nants) were painted in the saloon, serious work of

132 CORONA AND CORONET

the expedition progressed, and days flew by on
noiseless wings. The Mechanician, surrounded
by wires, batteries, tools of all sorts, and small
boxes of deft devices, sat on deck with head bent
forward, ardent spectacles gleaming, as he toiled
early and late at the inventions of the Astrono-
mer, who was occupied near by in making the
calculations necessary for experiments with dif-
ferent exposures in all the twenty or more pho-
tographic instruments, — each being arranged to
take that automatic series of pictures of its own
already described.

Occasionally the Doctor brought forth cases of
shining and suggestively ingenious tools of an-
other trade, newly purchased for this expedi-
tion, and all in best of condition for any dire
calamity. Happily lack of specific use necessi-
tated much attention and polishing to avoid sea-
rust. When free from one sort of paraphernalia,
both deck and big table below were generally
strewn with the implements of some other pro-
fession, in orderly confusion. Sometimes they
were summarily swept away by Alfred "the
Great " as meal-time approached, proper serving
at the expected moment being a far more serious
consideration than any mere eclipse, or celestial
streamer.

As for a little Richard barometer in the com-
panion-way, it was an intimate friend of all, a

FOUR WEEKS AT SEA 133

glance at its telltale cylinder being an invariable
but half-unconscious incident of every trip below,
if a dozen times in a morning.

The Captain barely escaped the loss overboard
of his birthday at the one hundred and eightieth
meridian, but its rescue was celebrated by a
huge cake with candles, and many gifts unsealed
from home. Delightful contralto, bass, or tenor
solos diversified those evenings when tempera-
ture would admit staying below with the piano ;
or quartettes on deck floated over lonely Pacific
wastes which may never again stir those soli-
tudes. Chief, too, developed still another talent,
giving us burlesque operas, accompanied by the
guitar or autoharp in thrilling style, some of his
final trills and cadenzas falling little short of the
sublime, as he dramatically bewailed a broken
heart in brilliant falsetto.

And still Polaris sank lower, the Cross riding
nightly higher in our southern heavens.

Hoisting the main topmast-staysail was always
a pretty sight. When lowered and stowed away
it is delicately tied together in a long roll, and
hauled into position still tied ; but when in place,
the wind and a slight jerk breaking the little
cords in speedy succession, it falls apart white
and graceful, and is quickly made fast.

At early morning, oftentimes, a curious noise
like the rush of an amateur cyclone sounded over

134

CORONA AND CORONET

our heads, but it was only a sailor scrubbing his
white duck clothes on deck in sea-water with a
big brush and salt-water soap. In the main they
were fresh-faced, wholesome men, these sailors of
the Pacific, quiet and industrious, with great
pride in the beautiful Coronet.

The shanties still continued, our mate, as on
the previous voyage, singing the solos, and a
hearty chorus aiding greatly in hoisting the
mainsail.

" Oh, Bony was a warrior " seemed a favorite :

1 Oh, Bony was a warrior, wa, a, wa-a, Oh, Bony was a war-

rior, wa-a — John French war (Jean Francois.).

2 He was a holy terrier.

3 Oh, Bony went to sea one day,

4 He went across to Eng-land,

5 The England did a' stop him.

6 Oh, Bony went to Moscow,

7 He gained a bunch of roses there.

8 Oh, Bony went to France again.

9 The England went a' after him,
10 He brought him Saint Helena,

where his adventures seemed to lapse. "Whiskey
boys, whiskey," was no less popular.

" A long time ago " was fitted with words de-
scribing the escapades of a certain sailor at Hon-
olulu who had boasted of his income from his
real estate in that city : —

"It was the merry month of May; Wa, wa, wa, wa.
The Coronet at Honolulu lay, A long time ago.

FOUR WEEKS AT SEA

*' Jimmy went on shore that day, etc.
To draw his rent and three months' pay :
Jimmy did not come back that day " —

and so on through a long tale varied as feeling
toward Jimmy rose or fell.

After the course was changed to northwest,
winds became curiously fitful, almost as if the
edge of a typhoon had passed by, so abnormal
were the conditions. Showers fell, general roll-
ing prevailed, winds died out, or else sharp
breezes sprung up from unexpected quarters.
For several days anything was anticipated, but
one afternoon a regular wind began once more,
after a heavy rain ; coolness and comfort re-
turned, and ten knots were easily made. A high
gray sea was running, though the water still
showed a temperature of 80° F. Then a rollick-
ing blue morning with sparkling white-caps, and
everything was natural again.

Sextants and other nautical instruments
abounded to an unusual degree, and observations
were not confined either to Captain or to noon-
day sights — but Polaris, Spica and Antares were
watched at night, by astronomer as well as
yachtsman. Enough solid navigation to direct a
fleet was carried, boxed in its own little mahogany
nests.

Visitors on board were rarer than on the way
to Honolulu ; one exquisite Httle creature like a

136 CORONA AND CORONET

poeticized corona was caught, — a delicate blue
centre with a double row of lighter blue encir-
cling rays. Twilights once more grew long.

A day or two before the coast of Japan should
have been sighted, flocks of birds appeared, the
breeze suddenly increased to sixty miles an hour,
while huge gray rollers again broke all over the
tossing sea in sharp white foam. Yet the wind
was in an opposite quarter from its normal direc-
tion, if indeed this disturbance were the edge of
a typhoon sweeping up the coast. Quick orders
for lowering sail rang out ; in the confusion of
tramping feet above, and the booming wind, all
sorts of expressions came down the companion-
way, cut into bits in their descent, and fraught
with mysterious import. " Clew up your top-
sails," *' Let go your throat," mingled with direc-
tions about the lee lift and the main sheets. I
listened in vain, however, for my favorite order
on board, " Jig up your peak." To-day's crisis
demanded quite the opposite of "jigging up"
anything. But in an incredibly short time
phrases were translated into an accomplished
shortening of all sail. Nothing remained but
the main trysail and a jib ; it rained with tropical
lavishness, and once more we were "hove to"
near the coast in a wild swirl of waters.

And still the Pacific had retrieved its charac-
ter. Since 1887 I had felt it entirely misnamed;

FOUR WEEKS AT SEA 137

that its fog, high seas, and general roughness of
demeanor demanded an apology, at least an ex-
planation, from those dead and gone worthies
who saw fit to call it Pacific. But probably they
had not sailed a great-circle course from Vancou-
ver, as our previous expedition did. Now, after
traversing its enchanting southern water spaces,
with day after day of shining sea, and trade-
winds, with no necessity for racks on the table or
** fences" at night — these things quite obliter-
ated all memory of that other unfriendly northern
Pacific which in 1887 had treated the old Abys-
sinia so unceremoniously. Except for a day or
two, this voyage had been a tropical harmony in
blue and gold.

And after this one tempestuous night, the
morning dawned fair and lovely, but greeted no
'longer by a sapphire sea to reflect the brilliant
sky. The Coronet was unmistakably in the Kii-
roskioy the ** black current " of Japan ; the water
was dark green, and full of drifting sea-weed.

Before sunset of that bright Sunday, the
twenty-first of June, two or three islands ap-
peared, — Mikura, Miaki, and Vries. Then the
incomparable cone of Fuji lifted itself against
the sky — that well remembered landmark which
was our last sight of the beautiful land nine years
before, and without which Japan could not be
Japan. Faint and far away, but unmistakable^

138 CORONA AND CORONET

and as fair as when, the morning after its mirac-
ulous creation, this " new born child of the gods "
caused the sailors at sea to rub their eyes and
wonder if it were the Iwakura^ eternal throne of
heaven, come down to rest on earth out of the
many piled white clouds above. The majestic
cone vouchsafed royal welcome, though less clear
than at his gracious dismissal.

And then a fishing-boat or two appeared, —
first sign of human life other than our own in
all the four weeks' wide stretch of lonely sea.
As darkness came on, great Fuji melted from
sight, and here and there torches twinkled un-
steadily from fishermen setting trawls. The
Captain remained on deck all night, and his
guests went below with mingled sensations of
memory and anticipation.

CHAPTER XV

JAPAN REVISITED

Thank God for tea ! What would the world do without tea ! How did it
exist ? I am glad I was not born before tea.

Sydney Smith, Memoir, i. 383.

Danger of disenchantment lurks about a re-
turn to distant lands whose memory has been for
years enshrouded in rosy atmosphere. The halo
idealizing our recollections down the vista of
years may dissipate into nothingness once the
actual comes again in sight.

Will the air be as sweet as in those dreamy
retrospects } Will the beauty be as all-pervasive,
the charm as haunting } All the mistily bright
June morning when the Coronet was beating up
Yedo Bay between green shores on either side,
this unspoken wonder seemed to hover half-
unconsciously in the sunny air.

For nine years the name of Japan had recalled
pictures of dainty little women thronging its
streets in bright dresses and gay parasols, and of
shops full of fine old swords and other relics
of samurai days, sold for a trifle, as being
of no farther practical value in the modern life
then beginning to overwhelm the beautiful land.

140 CORONA AND CORONET

Memories, too, of jinrikisha rides through quaint
streets, when the coolies pulling the fascinating
little carriages had known scarcely a word of
English, and were more than satisfied with ten
sen an hour for their exertions, and of night
rides when the shops and open booths were
lighted by flaring torches, and foot travelers and
jinrikisha bore their own painted lanterns swing-
ing in the soft darkness ; of happy babies
strapped on the backs of sisters or mothers, to
spend long days in utter content which excluded
even the knowledge of how to cry — all these
thoughts of years, and countless others, were
concentrated in one bewildering mental retro-
spect, as we sailed once more up the lovely bay,
in the era of Meiji 29.

Familiar places came into view one after an-
other, the sharp promontory guarding Mississippi
Bay, then the houses on the Bluff nearly hidden
in verdure ; farther on the mercantile parts of
Yokohama, and the Bund with straggling pines
on the water-side, low houses facing the bay be-
hind verandas and garden-walls on the other;
great Fuji dimly brooding over all, unchanged
against the sky, — and we were once more cast-
ing anchor among the men-of-war of all nations,
inside the superb new breakwater.

A few years ago no barrier had raised itself
against the tempestuous seas which almost at a

JAPAN REVISITED 141

moment's notice often turned the harbor into a
boiUng, seething mass of tossing waves ; when it
was impossible to induce sampan or even steam-
launch to take one out from shore, even if an
already promised tiffin or dinner on one of the
men-of-war were involved. Now the harbor is a
safe and quiet anchorage.

Before the Coronet actually came to rest a
dozen sampans had surrounded her, their wooden
anchors lying in the bow as of old, and propelled
in the familiar way by one huge oar at the stern,
but no longer wielded by what had once appeared
animated bronze statues. Instead, all were de-
corously clothed in dark blue cotton garments, or
attempts at European array, although the big,
picturesque hats still prevailed.

But English was actually spoken by the men
who held up cheap porcelain and coarse cloi-
sonne for sale from the native boats gathered
about. Rather imperfect, but generally definite
" American," it was still successful as to import.
The only chance for that class of wares with for-
eigners is immediately upon arrival, when every-
thing seems beautiful. The discriminating fac-
ulty of the traveler soon comes to the front, and
he speedily becomes critical in all matters of
Japanese art.

Rather surprised, even their savoirfaire some-
what upset by the few sentences in their own

142 CORONA AND CORONET

tongue tossed over to them, relative to price and
quality of their wares, these light-hearted ven-
dors of unattractive articles paddled away ; and
hotel-runners, provision dealers, laundry-men, and
every variety of tradesman clamored in their
stead. But quarter-masters and stewards kept
the yacht decks free from the amphibious host.

Reporters were by no means left behind on
the American shore. Delightful little gentle-
men, some in kimono and obi, English boots and
Derby hat ; some in paper or celluloid collars,
crowning elegance of a limp suit of pongee silk,
or seersucker ; others in the beautiful native dress
unadulterated, — all were still the same deeply
bowing, smiling, spectacled, courteous class we
remembered. One of these gentlemen prepared
for his shimbun (newspaper) a serial upon the
expedition and its adventures which ran through
four numbers. And another came on board
with the startling announcement, very calmly
made, that he had "come to take the life of
chief of expedition — for Japanese news-paper."

Remarkable disturbances of nature seemed to
accompany the Amherst Eclipse Expedition
upon its travels, and the first news heard by the
voyagers, quite starved for information as to
what had been happening to any of the earth's
inhabitants during the last month, was intelli-
gence of a terrible misfortune in northern dis-

JAPAN REVISITED 143

tricts of the main island. It was learned that an
enormous tidal wave had within a few days de-
vastated more than thirty towns, washing away
nearly six thousand houses, and destroying be-
tween thirty and forty thousand persons. Since
the great earthquake during which Yedo (now
Tokyo) was nearly swallowed up, forty years ago,
Japan has had no such calamity, not even the
Bandaisan eruption of 1888, or the Nagoya
earthquake of 1892.

Detailed accounts of this appalling disaster
were still hard to obtain, for the few survivors in
the devasted districts were too dazed to give
clear descriptions of the horror which befell
them. But it was known that a seismic wave,
some persons declared one hundred feet in
height, the majority uniting upon an altitude of
about eighty feet, swept across the land with
irresistible force. Along a coast line of one
hundred and seventy-five miles in one province
alone, the seaboard of three districts was over-
whelmed,— Miyagi, Iwate, and Aomori, extend-
ing from Hachinoye on the north to Kinkasan,
an island at the mouth of the bay of Sendai, on
the south. Several shocks of earthquake were
felt during the few hours preceding, and shortly
before eight o'clock in the evening of the 15th of
June a terrifying noise was heard, like the boom
of gigantic artillery, — the simultaneous firing of

144 CORONA AND CORONET

hundreds of cannon ; a black wall of water was
seen advancing from the ocean with fearful speed,
and in less than two minutes whole towns were
swept away and thousands of human beings per-
ished in the onward rush of this watery monster,
and there were not survivors enough within
reach to bury the dead who had not been sucked
out to sea by the retreating tide.

Their Imperial Majesties, the Emperor and
Empress, came at once and nobly to the rescue,
the Mitsui family contributed scarcely less, and
the Tokyo journals opened subscriptions for relief
of starving survivors, the "Jiji" collecting in a
few days over ten thousand yen, and the " Nichi-
Nichi" more than eight thousand, while the
Iwate branch of the Japan Red Cross Society
established temporary hospitals among the suf-
fering people. The number of victims was at
first greatly underrated.

All the habits, even the methods of thought,
return in plunging once more into a land as dis-
tinctly foreign as Japan, and even in Yokohama,
where strangers from other countries most
abound, the native atmosphere is hardly adulter-
ated enough to change the general effect. The
sunlight, the tints and odors of years before,
were unaltered. Even jinrikisha riding had lost
none of its charm, even if the runners, now
speaking considerable English, did show a grow-

JAPAN REVISITED 145

ing affinity for their far-away fraternity, the cab-
men of American cities, in demanding whatever
they could get for fares.

The effort to adapt manners and customs to
an imported standard, redoubled since the bril-
liant termination of their war with China, was
everywhere apparent.

Many signs are displayed in our own familiar
letters, instead of the picturesque floating strips
of dark blue cotton with their decorative ideo-
graphs in white. Still, these are not super-
seded, even in Yokohama, and the streets are
like one long holiday parade, — they actually
throb with mysterious vitality, the ideographs
quiver with meaning; a vivid picture comes be-
fore the mind with each character floating in the
wind. To a Japanese " it lives, it speaks, it gesti-
culates."

Art is in the air, until suddenly one comes
across an English sign, perhaps after this style :
** Dealer in of fan circular fan umbrella."

A fierce and sturdy-looking individual in
abundant whiskers and Americanized dress
stands painted guard over one shop, with a high
boot on one leg, a shoe on the other foot. This
not being quite definite enough, the legend runs
" Shoe to make to form."

"Watch and gold silverware belonging " was
quite clear, also "Drinks and courserues."

146 CORONA AND CORONET

A well-known dealer in curios advertises " Our
shop is best and obliging worker that have every-
body known, . . . We can works how much diffi-
cult Job with lowest price insure, please try,
once try don't forget name Whisky." Posses-
sives and plurals, in truth small matters, are con-
sidered rather too trivial for use. Possessives,
indeed, become expensive if one is telegraphing
in English, each adding several sen to the sum
total of charges.

" Wholesale and retail seller shop," and
** Landing, shipping customs goods forwarded to
parts " were easy to comprehend, as well as
"Transportation of several goods and baggages
of steamboat and railroad," and " Wine beer
and other." But "Do you love your life or
rather" was more of a conundrum. An odd
combination profession seemed to be implied in
" Portrait painter and dealer in Manila cigars,"
while another shopkeeper announced above his
entrance "glass and lumps" as his stock in
trade. A sign of rather startling import as-
serted that within might be found " Lamb,
corpses and provisions in seasonable rates." But
we purchased our chops elsewhere. A collection
of foreign signs during this transition period of
Japanese advancement would show new possibili-
ties in the English language.

Within the shops more articles were obviously

JAPAN REVISITED 147

made for travelers from other lands, — sure be-
ginning of art degeneration in any country.

Time had stolen little in nine years from the
two famous sisters Tanabe-san and Kin-san.
Once beautiful as well as fascinating, they still
remain exceedingly attractive. Their uncle, in
power in the province or ken in 1859, signed the
articles of treaty with Commodore Perry, and
the two charming women have always lived in an
atmosphere of the world at large, while yet pre-
serving the dainty sweetness of their race. Ac-
quaintance with them is a definite, integral part
of Japanese experience ; both sisters speak no
less easily in French, German, and even Russian,
than in the English which they use so prettily,
and the little silk-shop where embroideries may
be bought accompanied by gentle compliments in
English, manners to credit the graceful regime
of old, and pale yellow tea of delectable flavor,
was still pleasant meeting-ground for many na-
tionalities.

In the celebrated tea house at the top of the
Hundred Steps, Kin-san preserves many me-
mentos of her ancestors and Commodore Perry,
as well as an interesting guest book, in which
may be found the cards of hundreds of travelers
of distinction visiting Japan during twenty years.
Here Kin-san dispenses cosmopolitan hospital-
ity, filtered through customary Japanese forms.

148 CORONA AND CORONET

and Yokohama will lose one of its great delights
when she ceases to serve tea and sweetmeats
from her lofty veranda at Fujita, almost over-
hanging the gray tiled roofs of the city far be-
low; and when her soft voice shall no longer
accompany her elaborate playing on koto and
samisen.

One of the most picturesque spots in Yoko-
hama, Fujita is reached either by literally toiling
up a hundred steps from the street below, where
the kurumaya, trusting foreign ignorance of
locality, will basely leave a confiding fare if he
can be so imposed upon ; or by a winding road
ascending in easy stages to the rear of the tea-
house. At night the view is a sea of twinkling
lights below. Foreigners have always played
a large part in the experience of both these
dainty women, whom necessity compelled to
transact business for themselves ; and without
ever leaving Japan they have seen the world in
very attractive guise.

Certain distinctive habits have by no means
been outgrown in all the incoming rush of
modern ways. In making kimono^ for instance,
different sorts of stitches having reference to the
prospective wearer were still used, a system per-
haps a little less elaborate than the Morse tele-
graphic code. A long and two short stitches,
one short and two long — these combined in a

JAPAN REVISITED 149

variety of ways indicate that the garment is for
a man, or a married woman, a young girl, or a
child, or perhaps for a girl about to be married.

And still the pleasant life of foreign residents
went on much as it had years before, open
port life showing fewer changes than more
purely native places. Our old friend, consul-
general in 1887, during the first Cleveland ad-
ministration, was no longer there, but instead in
Korea. Others, however, were still at hand to
give friendly and well-remembered greeting ; and
among the officers of the men-of-war there were,
as always, many acquaintances.

The Coronet's next neighbor in harbor was
the Olympia, flag-ship of our Asiatic squadron,
now more famous from the great Manila victory.
The Detroit lay peacefully near by, and the
French cruiser L' Alger, while English men-of-
war and even a Mexican brightened the bay,
with a number of Japanese merchant and naval
vessels. Several small yachts skimmed lightly
about, or lay at anchor near the Bund, and daily
in landing we passed a schooner yacht but just
returned from the South Sea Islands. A pretty
craft, apparently manned by one huge Fiji Is-
lander, she took little part in the gay harbor life
flashing around her on all sides.

At sea one is never allowed to forget the pas-
sage of time, for two, four, eight bells are always

150 CORONA AND CORONET

sounding, the hours and half hours chasing each
other in a mad rush for eternity ; here in harbor
there was little danger of wondering what real
time actually might be, although each nation,
and almost each vessel seemed to have its own
notion of when the bells should be struck. Only
a few seconds apart, they formed a pleasant chim-
ing all over the bay, clear and loud, or soft and
distant, echoing from one to the other in melodi-
ous iteration.

At colors every morning a fine concert from
the Olympia always greeted us. When all the
ensigns and pennants slowly ascended into place
at eight o'clock, and as our company, if on deck
so soon, stood with bared heads while the Coro-
net's stars and stripes went up, the flagship band
played America ; then the Japanese national
air, — a curiously characteristic melody, — fol-
lowed sometimes by the national anthems of the
other countries represented by the men-of-war
lying in harbor, and ending always with Nancy
Lee, in pleasant compliment to their little neigh-
bor the Coronet, whose especial song it is. There
were bands, too, on some of the other men-of-war,
and bugles playing familiar calls. Talking from
one to the other by day with different signal flags
gayly floating in summer breezes, and evening
conversations by flashing colored electric lights,
made harbor life vivid and picturesque.

JAPAN REVISITED

Naval hospitalities flowed in upon us, — a tiffin
by the Admiral, dinners by the Ward Room offi-
cers, dances, teas ; while the pretty Coronet
held her own bravely in the exchange of social
courtesies ; and on shore were no fewer festive
occasions.

One memorable evening ceremonial tea, cha-
no-yoti, was served for our benefit.

In all the modern rush of nineteenth-century
life, beautiful old customs will be in danger of
dying out, or at least of being pushed from
sight. On the previous visit so many more of
the purely historic, hereditary and traditional
forms were practiced than seemed available this
time, that it was a delight to see once more the
elaborate tea-ceremony in all its solemn impres-
siveness.

Young girls are trained a long time for presid-
ing at this function, and every motion is ad-
justed in accordance with deeply philosophical
and ancient usage. The ceremony itself and
its underlying principles have been so often and
minutely described that I shall but refer super-
ficially to the features which were most apparent
to the Coronet company, sitting in a circle on the
floor in waiting silence. The tea itself is a
choice and very fine green powder, every imple-
ment old and valuable, heirlooms if possible, and
kept especially for these occasions.

152 CORONA AND CORONET

When a cup of this exceedingly delicious bev-
erage is set before the guests, in order of their
rank, each lifts it slowly to his forehead, after
bowing low, turns it ninety degrees counter-clock-
wise, and drinks it with deliberation, so regulating
his sips that three and one-half will just exhaust
the contents of the cup, the last being taken
with a slight indrawn hiss to express intensity of
appreciation and pleasure. Between sips the cup
is gracefully shaken, also in a particular way, to
stir the powder at the bottom. The finger
should wipe the edge of the cup where one's lips
have touched it, the finger itself wiped upon a
little piece of soft, once-folded paper already laid
upon the mat. Another piece, folded in a point,
holds a sweetmeat afterward to be taken home.
Later, the tea-caddy with its fragrant green
powder is passed from one to another, for ad-
miring scrutiny, also expressed in a special man-
ner; as well as the long-handled ivory spoon
with which the powder is transferred to the tea-
pot. It is all very slow and stately and cultured.

" Well," remarked one of the guests, straight-
ening his American back as he emerged from the
dainty dwelling, and started for the Bund, "It
does n't take long to stay a good while some-
times."

But truly lovely was the return to all the
grace and culture, the exquisite breeding, the

JAPAN REVISITED 153

constant thought for the happiness of others —
the artistic life of Japan. Even sitting on the
floor has its glamour, if one takes the right men-
tal as well as physical attitude, and the genial
sweetness of the entire country is so pervasive
that the best of one's nature expands unfailingly
in its sunny atmosphere.

Japan is changing, and noticeably ; but Chi-
nese compradores continue to walk unsmilingly
through the streets in quiet majesty, and many
years must pass before expressions of the na-
tional spirit will fall naturally into the common-
place ruts of other civilizations. The past had
perhaps been canonized, and the present was
different, but there was no disenchantment. The
old-time charm exerted its spell as before, al-
though a few babies were heard crying with truly
western vehemence, evidently the result of for-
eign influence, and at a delightful tea-house
entertainment one evening no painted lanterns
swung in the breeze, but electric lights flashed
forth from a bronze chandelier.

Tidal waves destroying lives and temples and
monuments in Japan are not a modern innova-
tion. From earliest times the country has been
occasionally overwhelmed by various forms of
destruction. Floods swell the rivers, wash out
railroads and drown rice - fields ; earthquakes
wreck whole towns, volcanoes bury provinces.

154

CORONA AND CORONET

Yet always energetic, hopeful, aspiring, the Japa-
nese take fresh courage from misfortune and
rise to renewed power and mastery in the life of
the far East.

The brilliantly successful issue of the war
with China has given the Japanese new faith in
themselves, and the spirit of modern progress is
abroad in the land. As a nation they will ulti-
mately incorporate whatever is best in our civili-
zation with their traditions, hoary with centuries,
beside which the short history of America
seems but an episode. If only they are far-see-
ing enough to retain what is best and most
characteristic in their own civilization as well,
the combination will make a country of modern
enterprise, coupled with the artistic bequest of
ages, which the world has never seen.

JAPANESE NATIONAL AIR
Largo.

^— -i-— *.

-•—It

EE^E^

ifcii

CHAPTER XVI

DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION

In this world, where civilization grows at the expense of the picturesque,
it is something to see a culture that knows how least to mar.

Percival Lowell.

Tell us of thy food, — those half-marine refections,
Crinoids on the shell, and Brachiopods au naturell

Bret Harte.

Yokohama's native quarter was still like some
animated fan or screen. Wooden clogs {getd)
clicked well - remembered music, and the little
teapot ladies of the thoroughfares made no visi-
ble attempts to sport in European dress. That
fad seemed to have died a natural death, and
attractiveness in street scenes is apparently as-
sured. The pretty kimono were out in full force,
with all their bright colorings, the flowing sleeves
doing service as capacious pockets for paper hand-
kerchiefs. Young girls in scarlet underskirts still
clattered along with tiny, black -eyed brothers
swinging on their backs ; gay sashes (obi) and
elaborately dressed hair gleamed in the sun, and
bridges with their crowded passers were more
picturesque than a picture. And however poor
or low in caste a Japanese woman may be, she

156 CORONA AND CORONET

seems never too ignorant to keep her hair smooth
and shining as a matter of course. One meets no
fuzzy, rough-haired girls, in any quarter. Unhap-
pily the pretty little women had abjured the gay,
many-ribbed parasols, appearing in their jinrikisha
sedately shaded by black silk umbrellas of very
ordinary shape. But children still flourished the
brilliant paper ones.

The Astronomer was at once busy with
Government officials, with the Imperial Weather
Bureau, and with our own representatives at the
Legation, and very soon the station for observing
the eclipse had been selected.

A new system of meteorological observations
made before an eclipse and with special refer-
ence to it was inaugurated by Professor Todd in
1890, for that of 1893. Taking the exact track
as soon as published in the Nautical Almanac,
and having careful observations made at the best
and most accessible points, gave excellent re-
sults on that occasion. As the Ephemeris is
issued about four years in advance, this insures
three complete series before an eclipse. Noting
the general meteorological conditions of the
heavens is not sufficient, for the sun is in a par-
ticular part of the sky at a given hour, so that
the observations must be of special character,
and with distinct reference to the position of the
sun, season of the year, and hour of the day

DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION 157

when the eclipse takes place. The tabulation of
this information assists greatly in selecting the
best stations for eclipse-observation, and those
who followed the indications as to clearness of
sky in 1893 achieved the best results.

In that year Professor Todd wrote to the Di-
rector of the Imperial Japanese Weather Ser-
vice, requesting observations at different points
in the Hokkaido, and his suggestions were car-
ried out in every particular. Professor Naka-
mura, of the Central Meteorological Observatory
at Tokyo, had printed and distributed to the dif-
ferent legations a pamphlet for the information
of eclipse students, containing not only all the
observations referred to, but a sufficiently minute
discussion of them to enable all the astronomers
to weigh most intelligently the probable chances
of clear skies at every available point in the path
of totality. The establishment of any station
is thus made with full knowledge of whether it
is best or worst in probable clearness ; and if
obliged to plant himself in some less hopeful
location, the intending observer takes his own
risk, with eyes wide open to the law of probabili-
ties.

The three provinces of Yezo in which the
shadow fell were Kushiro, Kitami, and Nemuro,
each containing several towns, most of them
small and but little known to foreigners. Dur-

158 CORONA AND CORONET

ing 1893, 1894, and 1895, tri-daily observations
were made from July 25 to August 25 at two
o'clock, half after two, and three o'clock, at a
number of these villages in the eclipse track, the
results being carefully collated in comparative
tables. From the percentage of cloud at the ob-
servation hour itself, Akkeshi, on the southeast
coast, came first in probabilities of clearness, and
Esashi, on the northeast coast, second ; but from
the point of its constancy thirty minutes before
and after the eclipse, Esashi presided over all
the others, as shown by the full tables given for
thirty-two days at seven towns.

The selection of a station always involves
much care and forethought, and responsibility
enough to whiten the hair of any one except
a philosophic astronomer, accustomed to take
chances with nature. The probabilities at Esa-
shi were considerably more than half in favor of
clearness, and after studying the reports and
tables carefully and consulting with the meteor-
ologists, the Professor finally selected that point
as his observing station, although it is farther
and more difficult of access than Akkeshi, of
which he had thought before our arrival in Japan
as a probable location.

And so Esashi, eleven hundred miles north of
Yokohama, became the scientific Mecca toward
which these pilgrims would wend their way, — a

DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION 159

region so remote that native steamers had but
recently begun to go there at all, and that in-
frequently ; a village on the shores of the Sea
of Okhotsk, among the hairy Ainu, the aborigines
of Japan, cut off by many hundred miles of im-
passable forest and mountain from even Sapporo
and Hakodate. At least the prospect for unusual
experiences looked hopeful.

The distance of Esashi in Kitami from Yoko-
hama, and the sort of coasting voyage necessary
to reach it, put out of question all possibility of
sailing there in the Coronet ; so it was planned
that she should convey the unscientific contin-
gent southward to Kobe instead, making after-
ward a trip through the Inland Sea.

But the imperial government was most courte-
ous to the expedition, affording every facility pos-
sible, which included, with truly royal generosity,
requests to both railroad and steamer corpora-
tions for free transportation for the whole party
and the instruments to any point they might
select, and many other favors which greatly en-
hanced our comfort and convenience.

Official matters move slowly in Japan, and our
imposing array of introductions and documents
from Washington needed time for fullest avail-
ability. The Astronomer wished, if possible, to
leave Yokohama not later than the first of July. ^

The interest of scientific men in this eclipse

i6o CORONA AND CORONET

was shown by the large number assembled for its
observation — French, English, American, Jap-
anese. France was represented by M. Henri
Deslandres, then of the Paris Observatory, accom-
panied by M. Millochau and the brothers F. and
J. Mittau. He also chose Esashi, whither the
French cruiser L' Alger was soon to convey him
from Yokohama with his fine equipment of spec-
troscopes. Genuinely modest as he is. Professor
Deslandres no doubt hoped to bring back from
Kitami wilds some solar discovery not less signi-
ficant than his trophy from the African eclipse
of 1893, — the rotation of the corona with the
Sun.

Professor Schaeberle, head of the Lick Obser-
vatory expedition, stationed himself at Akkeshi
with his party, consisting of Mr. Burckhalter of
the Chabot Observatory at Oakland, and others.
Professor Terao, Director of the Tokyo Observa-
tory, chose Esashi ; and the Astronomer Royal
of England, Mr. Christie, with Professor Turner
of Oxford, and Captain Hills, of the Royal Engi-
neers, soon arrived by a Canadian Pacific steamer,
and proceeded forthwith to Akkeshi, in Her Maj-
esty's ship Volage. But a few days remained
before our own expedition would depart north-
ward — days filled with hurry of preparation, yet
leaving time for enjoyment of many native and
foreign courtesies.

DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION i6i

A certain half-tropical, gently pungent odor,
not precisely that of flowers, or luxuriant vegeta-
tion, incense or moist atmosphere, old embroid-
eries, or the culture of ages, but perhaps all of
these together, and more powerful to awaken
association than even sight or sound, haunts
Japan like a spiritual aroma. With its first
dimly suggestive breath the nine years' chasm
was so bridged that life might almost have gone
on ever since without a break, in this dear,
dreamy lotus-land.

An old friend, and graduate of the college
represented by the expedition, whose father, at
one time highest in command in the Imperial
Navy was just then Governor of Formosa, invited
us for an evening of Old Japan at the Maple
Club in Tokyo. A resort of the nobles, fine en-
tertainments are constantly given there, under
exquisitely characteristic conditions.

Before the dinner, which began about six
o'clock, we drove with our friend to the Imperial
Gardens by the sea, — a charming spot, not acces-
sible to the public, and laid out with that taste
and skill peculiar to the Japanese landscape gar-
dener. Advantage has been taken of its situa-
tion to introduce many beautiful water-ways di-
rectly from the bay. When these winding inlets
are to be crossed, the bridges do not go uncom-
promisingly over from one bank to the other, but

1 62 CORONA AND CORONET

abound in unexpected corners and turns and
"j(5gs." And the railings are not of plain, square
timber held together by heavy nails ; instead, a
light and graceful bamboo rail — its fastenings
of fine wrought iron, each a work of art in it-
self. A daintily decorated tea-house awaited
the guests, and servants in livery of the nobles
explained, and guided them to the finest points.

Fish, apparently afflicted with hysterics, leaped
constantly from the water, often two or three
feet above its. surface. Ingeniously dwarfed
trees stood here and there ; superb forest trees
as well, while delicate maples, with their seven-
pointed leaves, cast lovely shade in the summer
day. Finding an eight-lobed maple leaf is as de-
sirable as a four-leafed clover in another land.

From a hill was gained a view of the blue bay
with its fleet of square sails gathered into stripes
after the old, well-remembered fashion.

There is no expectation that guests will not
stroll anywhere over the fine turf, but wherever
these wandering footsteps are liable to converge
— as perhaps here and there at a few moss-
grown stone steps — a gravel path begins sud-
denly in the grass before the steps are reached.
Sometimes but a short bit of path is required,
and there is nowhere that appearance of unin-
tentional footwearing often marring constantly
trodden parts of lawn.

DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION 163

At the Maple Club entrance a bevy of pretty
maids welcomed the guests, taking their shoes
before conducting them through a long series of
polished corridors to an airy room open on two
sides to an elaborate garden, a large lotus-pond
just beyond, and great Fuji eighty miles away,
against the brightness of a sunset pageant.

Here the Countess, mother of our friend, a
sweet-faced lady in gray silk kimono^ met us with
warm greeting, though herself speaking no Eng-
lish. Two young girls, daintily dressed in na-
tive costume, with superb obi^ also bade us wel-
come in friendly Japanese. Their melodious
names were found, upon interpretation, to mean
something about a flower and the shining of a
Fed star.

Our host, who had been married since his re-
turn to Japan, then presented his small daughter,
brought in her nurse's arms for a few moments,
a gorgeous baby of six months arrayed in magni-
ficent gold brocades reaching quite to the floor,
the expression upon her little face pecuHarly in-
telligent and high-bred. One could hardly have
imagined her as belonging to the same race with
the chubby-cheeked, fringe-haired akambo every-
where seen tossing about on many a back.

Among the guests were a young viscount, also
an old friend, who with his father and mother
and beautiful sisters had on our former visit paid

1 64 CORONA AND CORONET

US many delightful attentions, not the least of
which were gifts of memorable embroideries;
and a professor in the Imperial University, a
graduate of Amherst, to whom we owed many a
pleasant memory of 1887. As the three Japan-
ese gentlemen spoke perfect English, social inter-
course was but slightly restricted.

Squares of royal purple silk were brought in
as seats upon the floor, but one or two ottomans
came also, lest foreign guests should weary of
the enforced position, — a thoughtful and by no
means superfluous courtesy to some of the com-
pany, since sitting on the floor, although a de-
sirable and graceful accomplishment, is suppos-
ably one not easily acquired. Personally, I en-
joy it for unlimited hours. •

Seated at length on the purple squares, with
ottomans in reserve, stealthy shadows crept up
to the bright room from the dusky garden, its
paths and stone lanterns just visible in light
from the ashes of sunset, while tiny cups of tea
were removed, and the entertainment began.

Daintily made boxes containing sweetmeats
were placed before all the guests, among them
the Japanese and American flags shining forth
in amicable proximity through clear yellow jelly.
Examined and admired, they were set aside to be
taken home at close of the evening; the first
course of the dinner following at once, each of

DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION 165

US had his individual table, unsplit chopsticks,
and pretty waitress.

Japanese food is for the most part indescrib-
able in English words ; many of the twenty-seven
articles which appeared during the evening were
delicious and familiar Japanese dainties, and
using chopsticks is a quickly learned and easily
remembered art, but for certain choice and highly
prized viands a severely acquired taste is requisite.
In addition to soup and cooked fish, hot sake^ raw
fish with pungent sauce, chopped chicken, dai-
kofiy shell fish and chrysanthemum petals, lily-
bulbs and rice rolled in rare seaweeds, there
were also quail and French claret, lest, as our
host observed, American appetites should suf-
fer in the midst of Japanese plenty. Between
courses the sliding paper screens shutting off the
next apartment were withdrawn, and several
choice plays were performed, the whole enter-
tainment lasting from six o'clock until after
eleven. These old classic plays are now kept up
in Japan chiefly by actors who perform them for
love, and their own satisfaction, as it is no longer
the order of amusement which young Japan en-
joys enough to assure financial success.

When the screens were first pushed apart, an
archer was disclosed, handsomely dressed in the
costume of old feudal days, — a haughty and im-
pressive nobleman, engaged in stately conversa-

i66 CORONA AND CORONET

tion with his attendant, also in fine ancient
dress. Very soon a man of lower caste entered,
leading a monkey, and bowing low to the knight
After a few moments of dialogue the attendant
told the newcomer it would be necessary for
him to yield whatever his lord might ask, to
which the man readily assented ; having indeed
no choice in those days when a nobleman's will
was law.

The knight, fancying the monkey's skin, de-
manded it for a quiver to hold his arrows. But
that request almost broke the man's heart, the
monkey having been his nearest companion for
years ; he protested that he could not live with-
out his little friend. A well acted scene fol-
lowed in which the monkey's owner ventured
humbly to remonstrate, telling the knight how
they two had fared together, how he loved the
little animal, and how hard it would be to kill
him, although knowing he was bound by his pro-
mise to do so if the nobleman persisted. This
was all so dramatically done that it hardly
needed the clever running translation of our
friends, — the story told itself in action ; and
when the man, looking tenderly at the monkey,
told him he must die, that even he could not
save him, the little creature — a small boy in
reality — turned his head toward his master,
looking up with unaltered confidence and love,

DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION 167

and certainty that it must be all right if his dear
master said so ; it was a piece of acting so
pathetic that the audience was greatly moved,
and waited breathlessly for the end. Finally the
knight's heart was touched, and he released the
poor man from his promise, becoming so exhila-
rated with his own unexpected generosity that
when the monkey in gratitude began to exhibit
some of his choicest tricks, the lord was moved
to vigorous imitation ; and the play (called kyo-
gen) closed with a series of cleverly performed
feats of agility. Then the screens were once
more closed, while farther courses of the dinner
progressed.

The usual singing, and girls playing the sami-
sen, went on at intervals, as well as songs by old
men ; and the famous no dance was superbly
performed in the most elegant of ancient cos-
tumes.

Another sort of dance, in stately measure,
called gaisen, followed, by three girls in black and
gold, a celebration of certain victories in the late
war. Afterward a comedy was acted between an
old man in search of a wife, a "matrimonial
agent," and a veiled female, who subsequently
disclosed a hideous face. This play was called
fukitoriy or choosing a wife by playing the flute.

A famous juggler was next introduced, whose
remarkable feats ended by producing handfuls of

i68 CORONA AND CORONET

butterflies from nothing, until the whole room
was full of the flutter of delicate wings ; suddenly
condensing, apparently, a magnificent white cock
stood upon the magician's hand, and surveyed
the company loftily.

Another play, later in the evening, related to
incidents of the Chinese war, entertainingly in-
terpreted by our faithful friends, and followed by
the Maple Club dance, a graceful performance
in which all the beautiful costumes were orna-
mented with designs of maple leaves, — as indeed
everything is in the house itself.

The closing scene was charming ; several pretty
girls were scrubbing white linen, and beyond,
a background of attractive landscape showed
yards of similar linen drying. The whole thing
finally resolved itself into a dance where all went
through a variety of steps and evolutions to-
gether, flourishing the white cloth above their
heads, twining and untwining the long strips in
every variety of lithe posturing, with which the
most ardent pupil of Delsarte could not compete.

All these performers, except the old men and
the classic actors in the first piece, were girls be-
longing to the Maple Club. The charm of these
professional entertainers, even in much simpler
places than the Maple Club, is indescribable.
But where everything is strictly high class, the
maidens had an ineffable touch of dainty refine-

DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION 169

ment. Late in the evening, dinner and enter-
tainment having lasted over five hours, Chinese
tea, water-ices, and lady-fingers closed the repast,
in compliment to the foreign guests.

Riding away amid the pretty sayonara of the
assembled establishment, our feeling of regret
was most genuine that the stately, courteous,
slowly moving life of the old days should ever
give way before innovations of a busy modern
civilization which all too soon will find no time
for ancient customs. It is pleasant to see that
the calm and unhurried politeness which causes
acquaintances meeting on the street to stop and
slowly bow low three times to each other has not
yet wholly given place to the curt nods of the
Western world, — all that the rushing life of an
American business street seems willing to per-
mit. Japanese men who still wear the graceful
gray silk and black gauze native dress seem to
preserve intact the spirit and expression of old
time courtesy.

European costume at business or office seems
to possess a curious power of imposing foreign
manners therewith ; although a long time must
elapse before inborn graciousness will be suffi-
ciently lost for a Japanese to be mistaken for a
veritable foreigner.

The then American minister, Mr. Dun, Sec-
retary of Legation during our former visit, was

I70 CORONA AND CORONET

absent in America, but the Charge d' Affaires,
Mr. Herod, with his charming wife, omitted no-
thing in the way of Legation hospitahty.

Their home, filled with treasures from artistic
corners of Tokyo, undiscovered by the tourist ;
their white-robed native servants ; windows wide
open to the hot night ; punkah wafting welcome
breezes — how deliciously familiar and weighted
with memory was the scene of that last dinner
before the expedition departed for the mysterious
north !

All necessary official arrangements made, —
passports issued, apparatus safely stowed and
started for Hakodate on the Sakura-maru, — the
Astronomer, with the Musician, Chief, and their
assistants, among them the second mate Andrew,
the Japanese cook and his staff, also set forth in
the same direction by train, with all lesser para-
phernalia for science as well as enforced house-
keeping in remote Kitami province. The pho-
tographer, Mr. Ogawa (also our photographer
during the former Japan eclipse at Shirakawa in
1887), was to follow within a few days, and the
interpreter detailed by Government would join
the expedition at Sapporo.

Passes and official documents insured a more
than obsequious attention from all railway em-
ployees, who speedily emptied an entire first-class
carriage at Tokyo for the expedition, all of whom

DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION 171

Started off in the best of spirits for Aomori, the
northern port of the main island. Thence a
steamer conveyed them across the strait seventy
miles to Hakodate, on the southern coast of
Yezo, to meet the Sakura-maru, the members of
the expedition joining their apparatus on board
for the trip to Otaru on the west coast, where
the special steamer Suruga - maru, already dis-
patched, took the entire party for the long voy-
age to Esashi.

CHAPTER XVII

IN FAMILIAR HAUNTS

Nobody can revisit with absolute impunity a place once loved and de-
serted.

The " unscientific contingent " of the Coronet
party had classified themselves boldly ; the expe-
dition members proper were no less distinctly
arrayed. One of the company, however, could
not be absolutely identified with either. By
no means learned enough to belong wholly to
the specialists, her superficial attainments in the
heavenly science prevented her unchallenged
acceptance as one of the division which declared
themselves " know-nothings." Her wise resolve
in consequence, therefore, was to enjoy the best
in the programmes of both. To this end she
watched the expedition depart for northern Yezo
in comfortable consciousness that after a month
the eclipse camp would be in readiness to re-
ceive her and her humble assistance, — while
happy journeys with the non-scientific friends
would fill the intervening weeks.

Away from Yokohama changes in the last few
years are not as apparent. To be sure, the genuine

IN FAMILIAR HAUNTS 173

old swords, dispersed at first so carelessly, are no
more to be picked up in every shop, and ancient
robes of state and classic kakemono (scroll pic-
tures) can be found no more at bargains ; but the
native life goes on much in its normal manner as
soon as the immediate influence of the foreigner
becomes less.

Primitive natives even now do not willingly
eat three slices of pickled daikotty a favorite
vegetable, since legend has it that a man doomed
to death for some crime ate three slices at his
last meal on earth. Two or four are therefore
preferred. Watering the streets is still accom-
plished with much simplicity — by *' joggling"
out of a cart, scattering with dippers, spilling
from buckets, or squirting with little force
pumps.

The hotel where visitors formerly stayed in
Tokyo was the Sei-yo-ken, near the foreign com-
pound Tsukiji. It purported to be a foreign hotel,
and so it was as to cuisine and beds ; but it so
recently had emerged from Japanese ways that it
remained very picturesque, from the moist little
entrance courtyard with ferns and growing deco-
rations, to the Japanese attendants in native
dress. Few now resort to the modest Sei-yo-
ken, travelers being fonder of staying at the Im-
perial hotel, large, airy, and impressive, where
the guest might imagine himself in one country

174 CORONA AND CORONET

as much as another, except for the jinrikisha in
waiting near the entrances and their attendant
coolies. If one now speaks of the Sei-yo-ken, he
is generally supposed to mean its branch estab-
lishment, the attractive tea-house of the same
name in Uyeno Park.

The park itself seems little changed ; the trees
are larger, the shady paths more beautiful ; and
even midsummer imagination can picture the
wonderful arcades in cherry-blossom time —
the whole air one exquisite haze of pink per-
fume.

In the great lotus pond buds were beginning
to take shape amid rich green leaves ; and the
magnificent Golden Gate where ends a long
avenue of stone lanterns was like a fresh crea-
tion, its superb restoration having been accom-
plished soon after our other visit.

Shiba temples did not fail of their earlier
charm, where richly decorated altars show golden
gleams of lotus and incense burner, vase and
candlestick, with calm Buddhas gazing immov-
ably into far-off space, and ceilings whose every
panel is a separate study ; with mystic odor of
incense filling the dusky interior, and placid-faced
priests moving silently about with shaved heads
and ecclesiastical robes.

Formerly visitors had to remove their shoes
before entering the cool, dimly lighted temples

IN FAMILIAR HAUNTS 175

with their exquisitely lacquered floors. But
the spirit of change has touched these imme-
morial shrines, and now coolies pull over the
boots of foreign visitors a sort of soft white
stocking, or tabi, which they tie deftly round the
ankle, — a tribute, no doubt, to the constantly
recurring visits of persons from over seas, to
whom taking off shoes means a longer and more
elaborate operation than slipping the simple
wooden clog from the foot of a Japanese guest.
Nine years before I had been an object of intense
interest to a whole congregation from a temple
service, and to several of the ministering priests
as well, all of whom followed me out for the
novel experience of watching a foreigner button
her boots. But now the operation itself is no
longer necessary.

The great tomb of the second Shogun, the
largest specimen of gold lacquer extant, was to
me even more impressive than before. More
pathetic, too, were the memorials of the forty-
seven faithful Ronins — more closely human
and personal the swords, the worn old garments,
kakemono^ and ornaments; even their graves in
the shade spoke touchingly of a loyal constancy
ennobling to the annals of any country.

Certainly two visits should always be made to
a distant land ; the first grows luminous in the
light of the second, and together they throw a

176 CORONA AND CORONET

clear radiance upon the inner spiritual meaning
of its life and story.

That greatly abused word, picturesque, can
perhaps be most properly applied in Tokyo to its
moats, with banks sometimes turfed in vivid
green, or walled with stone, from the top of
which fine old pines lean their crooked branches
low down toward the water. The white walls of
the old Tokugawa Castle still rise in a tangle of
gnarled pines, though the dwelling itself was
burned in the Revolution (1868), and the streets
make innumerable sudden turns through and
around ancient fortifications, adding an immense
charm to jinrikisha riding in the great capital.
. In one of the pleasantest quarters stands the
Peeresses' School, which, as its name indicates,
daughters of nobles only may attend. One of its
leading teachers is a brilliant young woman who,
as a little child, was of that first famous group of
Japanese girls (including the present Countess
Oyama) sent to America for a foreign education
more than twenty-five years ago. Living chiefly
in Washington, where I remember her as a fasci-
nating child of high-bred manner, studying later
at Bryn Mawr, and returning to her native coun-
try while still young, she combines the best of
both civilizations.

The little peeresses have a delightful spot for
their educational efforts. They are charming

IN FAMILIAR HAUNTS 177

girls, and the refined type of face is in striking
contrast to that constantly seen thronging the
streets. All wore native dress, often exceed-
ingly rich and handsome, occasionally a royal
purple kimono or obi ; and their demeanor was
exquisitely courteous and graceful, noticeably so
even in a land where fine manners extend to all
classes.

Modern culture and that of the old regime are
here successfully united ; and while thorough in-
struction in English was going forward in one
room, in another a grave and elderly Japanese
scholar was giving punctilious care to the intri-
cacies of Japanese penmanship — would it were
with us as much of a fine art ! There a young
girl was learning the elaborate form necessary
in removing a kakemono properly from the wall ;
here, poetry and classics were studied faithfully
by the gentle daughters of an ancient nobility.

All went on without fret or hurry ; composed
and gracious earnestness were everywhere appar-
ent. At recess there was no noise, or shadow of
confusion, but a great deal of bowing to teacher
and guest as the classes filed out ; and during
their recreation the best of merry manners pre-
vailed. The lovely garden was rich in verdure
and artistic arrangement, and a soft rain gave
additional freshness to every growing thing.

One well-remembered haunt (the Nakadori) for

178 CORONA AND CORONET

picking up bits of old lacquer and bronze and
porcelain, and ancient embroideries, seemed to
have felt the touch of foreigners in more ways
than one ; and prices, still elastic, began at
heights never dreamed a few years ago, descend-
ing with greater reluctance. Genuine articles,
too, are rare in the little street, and modern imi-
tations frequent. Still, with care and discrimi-
nation beautiful things may still be found in its
precincts. Without sidewalks, each shop wide
open, owners placidly smoking in the midst of
their wares, the customer strolls along the way
from one to the other, seating himself on the
edge of any shop floor as fancy strikes him, his
jinrikisha slowly following, its amiable coolie
ready to assume entire charge of purchases.

Unfailingly reliable, no one of the multitude
of wooden boxes containing vase or lacquer or
whatnot, carefully tied with small twine handles
for convenient carrying, is ever mislaid or unac-
counted for by the kurumaya.

Of course in these attractive shops the pur-
chaser must depend chiefly upon his own judg-
ment of quality and value ; but near by are two
responsible places where prices are definitely
fixed, each article precisely as represented. In
one of them is shown the cloisonne without visi-
ble wires, invented by Namikawa, whose work
is a dream of beauty. All in soft, delicate tints,

IN FAMILIAR HAUNTS 179

— dim moons with sprays of ethereal cherry
blossoms {sakurd) dashed across them, faint
mountains against ineffable skies, with a sug-
gested bird or two — the thought is in every case
poetically conceived and executed, one large piece
having occupied Namikawa for nearly four years.
The old man himself, modest, retiring, and ex-
ceedingly refined, bears marks of the true artist
in every expression and movement.

Across the street is a permanent exhibition
of works of art by the leading masters of Japan
in their specialties. Ivory carvings of wonderful
beauty and skill, bronzes, lacquer, porcelains —
everything is of the finest, with prices which may
not be lowered.

A pleasant habit among reliable dealers in
Japan when sending their bill to one person who
has bought several articles of large value, is not
to make a discount, but instead to give a "pre-
sent," perhaps something admired by the cus-
tomer but not finally included in his chosen pur-
chases.

Only two or three days remained before the
Coronet would start on her southern trip ; one of
these was the Fourth of July, a famous day in
the happy port of Yokohama. All ships in har-
bor were lavishly decorated with countless flags
and pennants, the American admiral gave a re-
ception on the Olympia, noontime salutes of

i8o CORONA AND CORONET

twenty-one guns from the men-of-war made the
harbor reverberate, day fireworks filled the air
with brightness, and a special tiffin at the Grand
Hotel (where well-remembered, dusky Cingalese
in tortoise-shell combs and flowing white draper-
ies still displayed their wares on the veranda)
was attended by scores of pleasant people.
Early in the afternoon various feats of juggling
took place on the lawn at the landward entrance
of the hotel, and a baseball game was played on
a fine field, between a Japanese nine and another
made up chiefly of sailors from the war vessels.
The Americans won, but the Japanese played
well, their running, and sliding to bases, being
particularly agile.

In the evening various events of a social na-
ture went forward on shore and in harbor, bril-
liant fireworks and illuminations flashed over
the quiet sea ; and our national holiday became
in retrospect dignified and invested with a cer-
tain elegance as well as crude patriotism.

But Kobe and the Inland Sea would not come
to the Coronet, so turning her bow lightly to-
ward the south, good - bys were said to the
friendly harbor, and the pretty craft sailed airily
off down the bay, and along the coast.

\^ " ^^-^'-°--«-^"""-^^===''^-^--=;_'^

^ S

CHAPTER XVIII

SOUTHWARD

Praise the sea, but keep on land.

Herbert, Jacula Prudentutn.

It was unmistakably typhoon season. The
Coronet plunged at once into a gale, with higher
seas than any experienced during our whole voy-
age across the Pacific. Even after seven or eight
thousand miles of recent training, some of the
company were unhappy because of violent pitch-
ing. A story was recalled at which we had scorn-
fully laughed when first related on board : —

"Friends," said the captain of a steamer labor-
ing in a fatal storm, " We must prepare for death.
We shall go down in an hour."

"Heavens," groaned a passenger, "must we
live an hour yet ! "

After a tumultuous night breakfast-time found
us back in Yedo Bay, anchored farther down
than before, near the light-ship and outside the
breakwater. The morning sea was very calm and
pale, and covered with small fishing-boats.

Our friends on the Olympia proceeded at once
to engage in conversation by signal flags. Em-

i82 CORONA AND CORONET

barrassing questions were asked as to this humble
return, after our refusal of several invitations on
account of immediate necessity for reaching Kobe.
All of which were answered from the Coronet
with unabated cheerfulness.

The International Signal Code contains all one
could possibly wish to say at sea ; translation of
remarks from the Olympia was quite exciting,
as well as composition of replies, and selecting
proper flags to express them.

In addition to a flag for every consonant, there
is an "answering" pennant, one for "yes" and
one for "no," with every sort of combination.
"More help is required," for instance, is D C V B ;
"thanks," RSJ; and sentences for all circum-
stances and conditions fill two or three hundred
pages, with special appeals for help in emergen-
cies, as " I am on fire," or " I am sinking."

For a few hours we lay still, until the wind had
lessened outside ; then, toward sunset, with B D R
("good-by") fluttering, the Coronet once more
set forth, on a quiet sea.

Until darkness Fuji was magnificently in evi-
dence, and constantly changing foregrounds made
new pictures all the evening. Sometimes a steep,
sharp bluff, then a Hne of soft green hills ; once
a large fleet of fishing boats seemed lying at his
feet. Even the clouds in this artistic land are
decorative, their long, wavy, golden lines like the

SOUTHWARD 183

conventional cloud - shapes of kakemono or em-
broidery or carving. Once a huge dragon in bril-
liant yellow lay just above Fuji's sombre crown ;
again, fleeing women, elusive mountains, and on-
rushing animals. For hours this splendid, shifting
spectacle continued, about and above the grim,
faultless peak, until night fell and land and water
became one mass of quiet darkness under the
starlit sky, a dull, volcanic glow from Vries Island
touching the east with sullen light.

Almost a week passed in delightful but some-
what aimless sailing along the coast ; baffling
breezes alternated with dead calms, or what ap-
peared to be beginnings of gales, with an uncer-
tain feeling in the air, and typhoon color in the
sunsets. Slowly the idea was accepted that yacht-
ing along the Japan coast in July and August
affords unsatisfying recreation. Reluctantly it
was abandoned. Although already far passed, a
landing in Suruga Gulf was the most available
place, at the little town of Shimidzu. Thither the
Coronet's bow was repointed, that her owner and
his guests might proceed overland to Kyoto and
Kobe, the yacht afterward returning to her Yoko-
hama anchorage to await our return.

But Shimidzu is a closed port, and whether this
unexpected influx of foreigners could obtain per-
mission to land was by no means sure. All one
bright, sparkling forenoon the Coronet was beat-

i84 CORONA AND CORONET

ing up the beautiful gulf. Fuji splendidly domi-
nates this whole region, and the bay is hemmed
in by lesser hills and mountains, green to their
cultivated summits, and touched by lovely haze.
Thatched houses line the shore, and an occasional
temple shows the fine lines of its roof higher in
the sunny air, while terraces of vines and tea
plants rise behind.

Word had apparently gone forth that a foreign
vessel was coming, and from villages along the
coast, fifteen or sixteen miles away, gathered the
sampans — filled with a curious crowd, most of
whom had never seen an American before, much
less an American yacht. Closer they clustered,
more numerous as Shimidzu was approached, gaz-
ing with undisguised amazement, entirely different
from the spoiled sampan scullers of Yokohama.

Anchoring boldly in these forbidden waters, a
native man-of-war was discovered near the shore,
the red sun-rays from a central orb on the flag of
the Imperial Navy fluttering gayly in the pleasant
breeze. Very soon an imposing boat set forth
from the vessel's side, and two officers came on
board, one of whom spoke a few words of English.
It was carefully explained to them through our
interpreter, Okita, that baffling winds, stress of
weather, in short, while on the way to Kobe, had
necessitated our unexpected advent in their midst.
Permission to land was asked, and at once and

SOUTHWARD 185

most graciously granted, even before our special
passports were shown, with a great bundle of doc-
uments to Japanese dignitaries.

Omnipresent police also made their visit of in-
spection ; but nothing could exceed the courtesy
with which the yacht's company was treated,
while scrutiny from thickly crowding sampans
was entirely friendly, if still amazed. Officials in
all departments of the government knew of the
expedition ; but to ignorant fishermen, and peas-
ants surrounding us as we landed, we were an
unexplained wonder, certainly novel and probably
grotesque.

In a procession of seven jinrikisha, the little
town was traversed, and we were out upon the
Tokaido, toward Shizuoka, the nearest railway
station, Alfred and Okita following to watch the
two absurd tipcarts laden with our kori (baskets)
and drawn by women. And Japan unadulterated
and chiefly unadorned ran out to witness the pass-
ing. Young mothers with blackened teeth, and
chubby babies on their backs, little sisters with
heavy brothers on theirs, schoolboys in kimono
well tucked up into their obiy and boys and girls
without any kimono or obi at all ; occasionally an
old man arrayed in a garment of green mosquito
netting — all flocked to the street as our train of
kuruma went by.

It was a poor little village, yet the • wide-open

i86 CORONA AND CORONET

houses were clean, and through the parted screens
at the back could always be seen small and taste-
fully arranged gardens, dear to even the humblest
Japanese. Making match-boxes appeared a pre-
vailing industry, with silk spinning, and weaving
cloth. Hollyhocks grew profusely, and countless
blossoms of hydrangea were fastened on door-
posts. Trumpet-vines flaunting great scarlet and
yellow flowers covered many a little house —
stately lotus was beginning to show fair pink buds
in wayside ponds, and the shrilling of cicadae
filled the summer afternoon.

Rice-fields were full of cultivators, men and
women and children, who straightened their bent
backs for a moment, looking up stolidly at the
passing jinrikisha, their dull faces hardly capable
of expressing even surprise.

Toward Fuji the mountains were blue and hazy,
though the king himself had withdrawn ; and the
road was lined with young cryptomerias, not a
hundred feet high, like those bordering the glori-
ous avenue toward Nikko ; and groves of bamboo
tossed their delicate green leaves in the warm air.

Shaded by ferns, and not very clean, — probably
rioting ground for countless families of microbes,
— streams of water flowed through the streets,
beautiful if deadly ; and over them leaned women,
artlessly arrayed, washing vegetables in the run-
ning water. Occasionally some child or young

SOUTHWARD 187

girl would catch sight of this procession advancing
far down the road ; she would instantly vanish,
rushing frantically for the rest of the family, only
to return streetward in hot haste with grand-
mothers and babies to gaze till our disappearance.
A few smiled amiably in answer to smiles of
greeting from the jinrikisha, but many seemed
too dazed to apprehend the fact of a common
humanity.

Once a whole school passed, walking decorously,
two by two, conducted by their teachers, the little
girls in front in scarlet petticoats, the boys in
gray divided skirts, with high, stiff belts. They
examined the foreigners with interest, though de-
void of rustic surprise.

Time in Shizuoka was not sufficient to visit its
old castle, or temples. The little hotel has three
or four "foreign " rooms, bare and unhomelike,
the native portion neat and attractive like all good
Japanese inns.

European food was served ; but attempts to
adopt and imitate things Western were pathetic ;
in the tokonoma (niche or recess), usually sacred
to artistic kakemono and accompanying vase or
bronze, hung a map of the Canadian Pacific rail-
way.

The world is undoubtedly progressing, but in
just which direction is not always apparent.

CHAPTER XIX

GIFU AND THE CORMORANT FISHING

For flying at the brook, I saw not better sport these seven years' day.
Shakespeare, 2 Henry VI. ii. 1.

A NATIVE inn of especial charm is the Tamaiya
at Gifu. Deliciously clean, the rooms open off
shining corridors upon lovely outside verandas
overhanging mossy garden courts, ponds full of
goldfish, blue porcelain jars, stepping-stones,
shrubbery, and stone lanterns.

The sliding screens of old gilt were decorated
with spirited drawings of horses and scenery,
beautiful metal ornaments, and fine carving. Ceil-
ings were of delicate wood paneling, or paintings
of flocks of ducks. Little closets or cupboards
for the few dainty conveniences in each room,
bedding, mosquito nets, and so forth, had doors
decorated in monochrome drawings ; the hibachi
(braziers) were exceptionally handsome bronze.
The tokonoma had each its fine scroll picture, and
stand of lacquer holding an incense burner, or
perhaps a porcelain vase of tall grasses or spray
of blossoms arranged with the consummate skill
of typical Japanese art. The proprietor, a man of

GIFU AND THE CORMORANT FISHING 189

much refinement, was a collector of ancient paint-
ings.

On moonless nights from May to October cor-
morant fishing is in progress upon the Nagara
river at Gifu, a spectacle very popular with Japa-
nese travelers. After it was quite dark jinrikisha
from the inn conveyed us through the city and
across the river. The little shops were wide open,
and many persons coming and going through
the narrow streets. Flaring torches have largely
given way to lamps, and an artistic paper lantern
may sometimes, in these latter days, be found
intimately associated with a modest incandescent
light. But the ktcrumaya carry their tall, narrow
lanterns, and run very rapidly.

Many queer little turns around dark corners
brought us to a long bridge which by no means
went straight across the river, but had several
curves and angles in its passage over the Nagara.
Small boats on the dark water beneath slowly
drifted down stream, burning a few boughs to
attract fish ; but these were merely amateurs.

Below the bridge could be heard a rush of falls,
and a dark and heavily wooded hill rose high
against sky but a shade less black. A sharp turn
brought our whole picturesque procession to a
halt at the farther bank, where a large native
crowd had collected, and our pleasure-boat lay
awaiting us.

190 CORONA AND CORONET

Everything was in holiday attire, and stepping
on board the decorated craft we felt as if a nat-
ural part of this festive scene. Nearly all the
boat, except a high and pointed bow, was taken up
with a pretty, matted .room under a light wood
ceiling, the sides of paper screens now pushed
widely apart, the opening draped with pale blue
curtains and blue and pink lanterns swinging all
around the roof.

Swarthy and half naked coolies immediately
pushed off into the river, our boat becoming one
of a fleet, the others filled with Japanese pleasure
parties, also being poled up the stream. The
river was very wide and dark; far across was a
shingly beach ; beyond, a high, dusky hill.

Three attractive geisha^ engaged to entertain
us before reaching the scene of cormorant fishing,
now took gracefully upon themselves the duties of
hostesses — tea first and a musical programme
after.

The oldest played the samisen (three-stringed
instrument) ; the second, who sang, was about six-
teen, wearing an enormous and curiously tied obi^
long enough to reach the floor, and many orna-
ments in her hair. The youngest could not have
been over thirteen, but her hair was also burdened
with scarlet and silver and golden adornments,
and with her palm she beat a little red, tasseled
drum. Both the younger girls were in crape

GIFU AND THE CORMORANT FISHING 191

kimono of blue and scarlet, and their names signi-
fied " the small wave/' and " the sweet bell of a
Shinto shrine."

Various songs and dialogues were performed,
and simple but graceful fan dances. With bright
scarfs tied over their hair, they assumed pom-
pous expressions and went through one humor-
ous little play. Many of the words were merely
nonsense syllables, and the melody was easy to

remember. The music is founded upon the har-
m.onic minor scale, and melodies rarely end upon
the tonic, which has apparently no musical value
in Japan.

Suddenly out of the darkness boys and men
appeared in startling nearness, walking by in the
water, their bare brown legs glistening and their
dark blue kimono tucked high up. The effect
was curious, to say the least, — boats and walking
figures close together in the same stream ; but
feeling a slight scrape, and looking over into the
water, it was found very shallow, with a shadowy
bed of variegated pebbles.

Singing frogs made lovely music all through

192 CORONA AND CORONET

the merry evening, and as it grew later the little
maids finally prepared a Japanese supper, — eels
and rice, fish and seaweed.

After a while a certain commotion up stream
indicated we were near the famous fishing. Six
brilliant lights seemed drifting downward, and in a
moment they surrounded us. Six boats had each
an iron cage swung forward over the water, full of
brightly burning wood which threw a wide glare.
In each bow stood a man holding twelve cords
attached to as many cormorants, large, black
water birds, struggling and screaming and diving
in every direction. Not to tangle all those lines
required the skill of a circus driver, as each bird
. went its own way in search of the fish it instantly
swallowed.

But the unusual part of this method of fishing
is that a heavy iron ring at the base of the cor-
morant's neck is so tight as to allow only the
smallest fish to pass through. All others lodge
in the throat, and when that is full the bird is
hauled back into the boat, and made to disgorge
what it has just been at such trouble to obtain.
That a bird should thereafter immediately desire
to go fishing again seems odd, but its ardor is
unabated, and it rushes once more into the fray
with ever new enthusiasm. Three thousand of
the aiy 3. sort of trout, is not a large evening's
catch for a single boat.

GIFU AND THE CORMORANT FISHING 193

The scene was unique, — flaring faggots, half
naked boatmen, the dusky river full of brightly
lighted pleasure craft and moving figures, baskets
of shining fish, and the excited and fluttering
birds.

Each man is greatly attached to his cormorants,
and if by any chance they have not managed to
swallow enough small fish for proper nourish-
ment, others are given them from the catch for
a good supper. Then they are tucked into basket
cages to rest until the next night's sport.

And so pleasure-boats and fishing-boats drifted
down the river together ; the jinrikisha were wait-
ing, and through dark and quiet streets, over the
long bridge and around unexpected corners ran
the little procession, dashing into the Tamaiya
courtyard soon after midnight.

CHAPTER XX

KYOTO

The pine is the mother of legends.

Lowell, Reverie,

" Madam/' said a courtly Japanese gentleman
to an American single lady of uncertain age, "you
remind me of our beautiful pine-tree."

" Ah ! " she replied, visibly flattered, " and
may I ask in what way .'' "

" Because, although you are so old, you are ever
green," he answered suavely, quite unaware that
he had failed to pay her a supreme compliment.

This incident came to mind when rolling com-
fortably through the city of Kyoto, across the
rushing river, which seemed to have as much dry
and stony bed as actual channel, and past innu-
merable temple gates toward the Yaami Hotel.
Glorious conifers thickly covered the surrounding
hills, and the hotel itself is set in a background of
towering cryptomerias, sombre, stately, beautiful.
Truly one might be compared to many things
worse.

The famous cherry-tree in the city park was
surrounded by an amiable, strolling crowd of wo-
men and children, and in a moment the outer

KYOTO 195

gate of the Yaami was reached, and the upward
walk, by mossy rocks, under large shade trees, up
steps, past ponds and fountains and lanterns, led
us to one of the verandas.

The hotel stands on varying levels, to which
there are many approaches. One may traverse a
piazza, and entering, ascend ordinary stairs ; or
by an outside stairway, and corridors overhanging
a delightful little public road which looks like a
forest path up to some mountain deity's inner-
most shrine ; or he may walk farther through
the garden, past another pond and up a few more
mossy stone steps set with vague, artistic tiles,
reaching thus the second or third story of another
portion of the house. Tall evergreens clothing
the hillside close by shelter temples and shrines
enough to occupy many days without once visit-
ing the city below.

From the upper verandas the view has a truly
magnificent sweep, taking in all of Kyoto, usually
wrapped in a bit of dreamy haze, and the far,
green-blue hills beyond — at night mysterious and
impressive with myriad twinkling lights, under a
young moon sailing in the high heavens among
lightly drifting cloud. Fireflies flitted through
heavy shrubbery below the balconies, murmuring
water tinkled softly in the warm darkness, and
the humming, buzzing, singing of insects in the
garden filled the summer nights.

196 CORONA AND CORONET

Many foreigners were enjoying the artistic sur-
roundings and excellent table of the Yaami —
Americans, French, English, carrying national
peculiarities as distinctively and carefully as if
precious enough to pack in kori. Late every
afternoon, while taking tea in the breeze of an
upper balcony, in cool kimono^ we watched various
parties of indefatigable shoppers and sightseers
toiling up the steps, their faces red and hot with
exertion, but a familiar expression of satisfied
bargaining upon their moist features, as if reflect-
ing upon the purchases dutifully carried in arm-
fuls of little wooden boxes by jinrikisha men
following.

. Radiantly beautiful were early mornings on the
hillside. The exquisitely pathetic sweetness of a
near-by temple bell often rang out at dewy dawn
and over the silent city, with a call fit to beckon
the soul straight out and away — anywhere, if
only* might be reached its realm of peace and
forgotten pain. Its tone was a sacrament. Fra-
grance from freshened gardens rose to the balco-
nies, and finally the sun, still partly shrouded in
morning mist, shone on the glistening verdure,
and mere living led everything to rejoice with ex-
ceeding gladness.

Okita was very entertaining ; almost he might
be reckoned as guide, philosopher, and friend.
By profession an interpreter, he was invaluable

KYOTO 197

in all situations. Even half the legends and
histories he related about shrines, persons, and
scenes would have made an amusing and entirely
original volume upon the flowery kingdom. In
temple, shop, or castle Okita was equally at home.
Only at sea was he ever overcome by circum-
stances.

He was very comfortable upon the subject of
religion, of which he said he had none, — Buddhist
nor Shinto nor Christian. He laughed a great
deal, with a funny little pucker of his nose quite
irresistible. The Captain was " famous fellow "
now, he said, both yacht and expedition had been
written of so much in Japanese papers. Priests
ministering at a Buddhist altar he called " sacred
fellows." When asked about his family Okita
laughed heartily. " Had a wife one time," he
said, " very nice woman — very nice. But I too
young, so divorced her, ha ! ha ! "

The Kamogawa is wide, shallow, sunny, crossed
by countless bridges. Always there were chil-
dren tumbling about in the water, women wash-
ing, and Hues of houses close to the edge, their
balconies overhanging the stream. And there
are canals bordered by willow-trees, and moats,
and ever mountain backgrounds and birds flying
decoratively against yellow sunset skies.

Kyoto is credited with eight hundred temples.
But it was Kyoto in large, impressionist effects —

198 CORONA AND CORONET

shrines, palace, castle, arts, scenery, all blended
in one glowing mernory rather than clearness of
minute detail — which time permitted in this
royal city of the centuries. Built five hundred
years ago, the golden pavilion, its ceiling, walls,
floor, balcony, and rafters overlaid with precious
metal, was the favorite haunt of the Shogun Yo-
shimitsu, whence he often gazed enraptured at
the moon, or at the opposite hills, once covered
with white silk for the pleasure of an Ex-Mikado
who wished to imagine snow in summer heat. A
dreamy morning was spent here, and in the beau-
tiful grounds, a funny little boy reciting in high,
artificial singsong, with a sudden drop into nor-
mal tones at the end of each sentence, legends
and history which must have lost much of their
quaintness in translation, as he conscientiously
pointed out the springs where Yoshimitsu bathed
or drank and made tea, and every other especial
spot.

Myoshingi Temple is lofty beyond others, with
almost a cathedral effect of space ; Nishi Hong-
wanji has a superb series of apartments once
used by the daimios, and decorated with golden
screens ; Higashi Hongwanji was founded shortly
after the other, about three hundred years ago,
and burned just before the Revolution. The
present edifice, only recently completed, is of
noble proportions, and gorgeous decoration, —

KYOTO 199

abounding in panels of lotus on dull gold, and
gleaming altars filled with rich art.

Worshipers came in constantly, clapping their
hands to draw the attention of deity, a cere-
mony practiced with apparently equal effect upon
any absentee, whether god or servant. The old
Hawaiians also clapped their hands in praying,
perhaps for the same reason, though their gods
were of a less cultured variety. Buddhism hardly
seems decadent when a new temple of such rich-
ness is built and maintained by modern enthu-
siasm.

San-ju-Sangendo, as its name implies, supposably
contains 33,333 images of Kwannon, goddess of
mercy. Actually about a thousand, they represent
the others by various computations, and as row
after row of these golden ladies rises, one behind
the other, each statue nearly life-size, the effect is
overwhelming. An old attendant in the temple
told us solemnly that all were miraculously made
from a single willow-tree, pointing out also what
he termed '* devil-protectors " on either side of the
central figure. Certainly they should be effective
in warning off all the powers of evil.

Of course the goddess in her multitudinous
representations has an occasional accident, and a
hand or an arm must frequently be replaced. The
divine repair shop was discovered, but not even
by an offer of sen galore, nor by manifest appro-

CORONA AND CORONET

priateness to his profession, could our good Doctor
prevail upon the attendant worthy to present him
with a discarded nose or even a stray finger.

Famous bells, among the largest in the world,
fountains springing miraculously to avert confla-
grations, historic carp, altars mystic with the
incense of generations, — appreciation became
almost pain, as day after day went by and we
realized that year after year instead must pass
before half could be seen, much less assimilated.

I wish that young, middle-class Japan, in transi-
tion state of costume, would not allow itself to
appear incongrously projected upon a background
of temple or castle walls. Practice with European
clothes should go on remotely from these great
monuments, " the finished fashionings from a far
past."

From A. D. 793 to 1868 Kyoto was the capital
city, and the buildings of the Mikado's palace
cover many acres. But of far greater beauty is
the former castle of the Shoguns ; without, for-
tress-like and stern, even though the moat was in
places filled with lotus in the glory of its blos-
soming ; within, full of art and magnificence. In
striking contrast to the plainness of the palace,
it is a commentary upon the relation between
Shoguns and nominal Emperor before the Revo-
lution. Its rooms are a wilderness of golden
screens painted by famous artists, with peacocks

KYOTO 201

and pine-trees of natural size, tigers and strange
birds. The celebrated *'wet heron" panel is not
in very good preservation, though still marvelously
fine; two sparrows upon another are so natural
that they once flew entirely away, Okita assured
us, coming back of their own accord. Special
permission must be obtained to enter either castle
or palace, and guests inscribe their names in a
book within the gates, where also may be read
directions respecting behavior. Visitors are ex-
pected to "leave their overcoat, mitten, stick,
walking - cane umbrella or whatever they take
with them " to their own servants or the attendant
before entering the buildings.

The shops and industries of Kyoto — who can
describe or resist their fascinations ! Delicious
cups of tea welcome the purchaser, pretty sayo-
nara attend his departure. Memorable are the
rare and odd conceits of the vases and bowls of
Seifu, the first ceramic artist in Kyoto, and de-
scendant of famous potters ; and cloisonnd to
rejoice the soul is made by Namikawa. Of the
same name as the inventor of cloisonnd without
wires in Tokyo, the two are alike in earnest and
poetic feeling, enthusiasm, and utter absorption in
their art.

Namikawa' s house is an education. In room
after room of spotless neatness and beauty sit a
few workmen on the floor, each with a tiny table

CORONA AND CORONET

holding wires, enamel, brushes, and all the para-
phernalia of the art, sliding screens of glass open-
ing upon a garden and pond, lovely if diminutive.
Shrubs and flowers conceal an odd bamboo fence
shutting out the city ; the pond has miniature
rocky cliffs on diversified shores ; gold-fish and
carp swim fearlessly as near the guest as possible ;
brilliant blossoms brighten a corner.

Upon our exclaiming over its beauty, the dear
old artist said simply, '* The workmen must have
it to rest their eyes." Memory called up the
scenery, with a few noteworthy exceptions, pro-
vided for resting the eyes of those employed in
American industries, — piles of ashes in rear en-
closures, varied by tin cans and an occasional old
boot.

This prevailing love for the beautiful in all
classes in Japan was well illustrated by the cook
of an acquaintance in Kyoto, an illiterate man
whom she one evening discovered sitting quietly,
long after the hour, beside his untouched dinner.
His reply to her question as to why he forgot his
meal time was characteristic. As he pointed to
the sky, with a radiant expression on his worn old
face — "Who could eat," he exclaimed, "with such
a sunset as that to look at ! "

Truly we should entreat that apostles and mis-
sionaries of the beautiful be sent us from Japan.

Namikawa's cloisonne is worthy microscopic

KYOTO 203

study. His backgrounds are largely rich lapis-
lazuli. Shapes and decoration have much variety,
though few pieces are kept on hand, this famous
work being largely ordered, or bought in advance
of completion. Of the specimens finished, several
showed white cranes, long clusters of convention-
alized wistaria blossoms, or the popular iris. The
whole process of making, too, was watched, from
the first design sketched upon the copper vase,
to the final, often fifth or sixth polishing of the
repeatedly fired enamel.

The Nishimura embroideries were as fine in
their way, — one particular screen remaining in
memory as an almost perfect work of art. Its
three panels, about six feet high, represented in
solid stitches a thickly wooded hillside. The feel-
ing for each sort of verdure was exquisitely por-
trayed, — the deep pines where each " needle " was
shown, delicate maples, and lighter foliage, yet
the whole effect broad and noble. Above the hill
was a pale blue sky full of shreds of trailing mist,
some of which had drifted down across the trees, —
an effect constantly seen in Japan, — while in the
right-hand panel a magnificent waterfall tumbled,
white and foaming, from a height, flashing through
the green to spread itself out in a tumultuous
brook beneath, flowing off and away through the
other panels of this masterpiece. No one could
imagine, without seeing it, that embroidery could

204 CORONA AND CORONET

be SO wet, or a cloud of stitches so filmy. In
quite a different way, Nishimura's cut velvets are
scarcely less beautiful. Here, design and coloring
are woven into the fabric, whose threads inclose
tiny copper wires. Finally a workman with a small
and exceedingly sharp knife cuts carefully along
the top of each wire, making actual velvet of por-
tions to be rich and dark in effect, but leaving
uncut distant Fuji, skies, pale moons, or shining
water. The wires carefully withdrawn, a modern
but most lovely work of art is produced.

Although vacation time, the Doshisha (One
Purpose Company) was visited, that university
founded by the late and greatly beloved Neesima,
an Amherst graduate of 1870; and the girls'
school close by, where a few pupils and teach-
ers were found. The girls sang for us some
weird native melodies, remarkable harmonies being
supplied by a foreign teacher at a small organ.
Harmonizing Japanese airs is an almost untried
musical field, offering many curious opportunities
for original effects.

In the eighth year of Meiji (1875) the Doshisha
was opened at Mr. Neesima' s home, with eight
pupils. Through untold discouragements this
" puritan of the Orient " struggled on with his
beloved institution, only to leave it at his death in
1890 firmly established and prosperous, a tangible
legacy from his devoted life, a monument to the

KYOTO 205

pervasive power of his magnetic, unswerving per-
sonality. Through him Amherst College had be-
come more widely known in Japan than perhaps
any other institution, even before its later gradu-
ates, Kanda, Kabayama, Uchimura, Sawayama, and
others had also carried its fame to their native
land.

The Shinto festivals are full of beauty, despite
the original simplicity of this faith. Happily
timed was our Kyoto visit for one of these char-
acteristic celebrations, a typical matsuri. The
special day was July seventeenth, but all through
the week the city wore a festive air, every house
showing its new wooden bracket with a roof, under
which hung a huge lantern. At twilight all were
lighted, and gay drops of crimson or golden bril-
liance flamed as well in arches, festoons, high
loops along the buildings, — glowing, pulsating,
quivering strings of tamed and decorative fire in
luminous figures. It was a fairy scene.

The evening of the sixteenth was particularly
fine. Rockets flew hither and thither ; countless
globes of pale or scarlet flame in double rows lined
every street, theatres were ablaze with brightness
and gaudy pictures, sounds of music and drum
coming from within to the happy, surging crowd.
Many pictures were very amusing, — one showing
a huge man engaged in throwing people over a
precipice who, in their unwilling descent, took all

2o6 CORONA AND CORONET

sorts of queer oriental attitudes. Everybody was
full of merriment, the babies out in full force.
Little stands for shaved ice were popular centres,
and varieties of disastrous, cooling drinks flowed
freely.

Dwelling-houses, even the smallest, were in
gala array, tiny interiors wide open to the street.
Their usual straw mats were quite hidden, some-
times by rugs, more often by heavily woven cotton
with white storks or ducks on a dull red ground.
Exceedingly decorative, my attempts to purchase
one always failed, their owners declaring them
heirlooms ; very old, exceedingly valuable, greatly
prized, and only used during festivals.

The walls of every room were hidden by hand-
some gold or white folding screens, painted or
embroidered, the hibachi being the only article
which might be termed furniture in the room.
So the whole effect was orderly and beautiful. In
daytime the house fronts were decorated with
floating curtains or strips with blue and white
horizontal bars or other simple design.

The universality of interest in the festival, the
personal eagerness and pleasure shown by all, were
delightfully refreshing.

On the morning of the seventeenth an invita-
tion came from the owner of a house on the route
of the procession, to witness it from his roof.
Upon reaching the ridgepole, sunshine was blind-

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A " FLOAT •• IN MATSURI PROCESSION AT KYOTO

KYOTO 207

ingly hot, the gray tiles scorching, but a Httle
platform for two persons was shaded by a big
paper umbrella as canopy, and a brisk breeze tem-
pered the heat. The street below was thronged,
the procession just having reached Narachu's
house as we arrived.

High wagons or " floats " {dashi) draped with
superb brocades and embroidered temple-hangings
went slowly by, sometimes surmounted by a grow-
ing pine or cedar, or perhaps the life-size figure
of a man in classic armor or other old costume,
engaged in brandishing a branch of cherry blos-
soms in the face of an enemy upon imaginary
battlefields — a " poetical fellow," explained Okita.

Under the canopy of the float men and boys
beat rhythmically on small drums, singing and
throwing tufts or branches of "good luck " to the
crowd, in the shape of green leaves enclosing
sacred rice-cakes. At the front of one float, three
girls, thickly powdered, were performing some
stately ceremony ; on another two men stood on
the projecting platform dancing fan dances.

Children and young girls taking part in the
festivals are not allowed to carry a parasol from
their houses to the rolling cars, even if it rains,
and not infrequently their handsome costumes are
quite ruined. Each street is responsible for a
float drawn by coolies living in its precincts, accom-
panied by gentlemen on foot who also live in the

2o8 CORONA AND CORONET

Street, — high-class worshipers at the temple, in
their cool, gray silk ceremonial dress, carrying
fans and wearing flat straw hats. At frequent
halts their servants set down little stools upon
which the gentlemen rested for a few minutes.

The huge, unwieldy wooden wheels have no
means of being guided ; so a coolie or two crouched
along beneath like a new kind of coach dog, put-
ting sticks under the wheels to turn them slightly
to the right or left when they ran too near the
happy crowd.

'T was a merry time, light-hearted as to inhabi-
tants, sunny and fragrant as to weather, pictur-
esque and characteristic as to processions and
decorations. Fair Kyoto, with your long, long
story, your immemorial temples, your gay religious
festivals, your mountains and pines, your exquisite
art, your gardens and river! Beautiful Kyoto,
sayonara !

CHAPTER XXI

NARA

Framed in the prodigality of nature.

Shakespeare, Richard III., i. 2.

Nara, the Imperial Capital,
Blooms with prosperity,
Even as the blossom blooms
With rich color and sweet fragrance.

Japanese Poem.

A HEAVY, tropical downpour had set in, with
no cessation for days. Uji, its temples, famous
tea-plantations, beautiful lotus pond, and Phoenix
Hall (a reproduction of which was sent to the
Exposition at Chicago) were seen through such a
whirl of descending waters that, except a general
impression of beauty, its memory is blurred and
misty. Great danger of floods prevailed all over
Japan, breaks in the railway line were constantly
reported, and Nara was no exception to the
general condition, looking half - drowned as we
approached its historic groves.

Rich in temples and monuments, its sitting
Buddha, fifty-three feet high, is larger than the
one near Yokohama ; the rich material is said to
abound in gold and silver, yet as a work of art it

CORONA AND CORONET

is far less impressive than the Kamakura Dai-
butsu, partly, perhaps, because that is in a noble
park, while the one at Nara is dwarfed by the
ancient temple inclosing its massive proportions.
An escaping thief is reported, by the voluble
coolies about, to have lived safely for three years
by sacrilegious retirement into its nose. On each
side are figures described as Myo-i-rin kwannon,
on the left, " watcher of the noise of the world,"
awaiting with calm patience one word of wisdom
or eternal truth from the babel of humanity ; and
on the right, Kokuzo-bosatsu, god of the universe,
holding one hand aloft.

Early in the eighth century Nara became the
capital, and was thenceforth known as Heijo, or
castle of tranquillity. No less so now, more than
a thousand years after, " the noise of the world '*
scarcely comes near enough to its peaceful groves
even to be watched. The little inn was charm-
ing. The rooms opened on the customary out-
side veranda, whose polished floor led to a few
wide steps of green turf, — the entrance to a
garden, somewhat larger than common, where
quaintly arranged stepping-stones, bronze storks
in various attitudes, and groups of pine and bam-
boo formed the foreground for a placid lake lying
beyond. Still beyond was a thickly wooded shore,
here and there a pagoda or temple-roof amid the
trees, and mountains over which drifting cloud

NARA

laid softly trailing fingers of mist far down their
green sides, "as if one might climb into the hea-
venly region, earth being so intermixed with sky,"
as Hawthorne wrote long years before of another
land.

Even the bronze storks looked wilted in the
continual rain, — feathers bedraggled, attitudes
dejected.

A noticeable feature of Nara is its tame deer,
wandering in street and park and temple grounds.
Secure from harm, these sacred animals walk
confidingly up to any passing jinrikisha, in anti-
cipation of a liberal meal, which the rider is sup-
posed to purchase from women standing con-
veniently near.

The Kasuga temple grounds are shaded by
enormous and aged cryptomerias, making an im-
pressive archway. The sun had briefly emerged,
and countless rushing brooks and cascades filled
this lovely spot with a cool murmur of falling
water. Mossgrown stone steps lead up to
shrine after shrine, past myriads of stone lan-
terns placed as offerings by the devout, or in
memory of friends, — perhaps to win heavenly
favor for themselves. There are nearly two thou-
sand of these lanterns, tradition relating that the
oldest was given by Kobo Daishi, a famous priest
and author of the Japanese alphabet; an expert
as well in the fine art of penmanship. He con-

212 CORONA AND CORONET

structed the alphabet in a poem, which roughly-
translated runs : —

"Even the colors of flowers decay, and this world is like a
dream.
Nothing is constant, but we should not be asleep because the
world is like a dream."

I-ro-ha, the Japanese word for alphabet, or sylla-
bary, opens the poem.

We chanced on a special day at Kasuga Temple
when a sacred dance was just being performed
by young girls, whose ceremony was exactly and
gracefully executed ; dignified posturing and bow-
ing, precisely in unison, alternating with compli-
cated evolutions with fans, and sticks of little
bells. Two or three priests sang, and played
upon flutes, sometimes a perfect sixth above the
voices ; so there was actually a suggestion of
harmony ; though more often an interval utterly
unmusical to Western ears.

The girls were heavily powdered, but close to
their hair the thick whiteness ended abruptly in
a curve sharply defined. Their eyebrows were
shaved, painted ones high on the forehead giving
a curious expression of wondering innocence ; and
their black hair, ornamented over the forehead
with large white artificial flowers and twinkling
pendants of gilt, was tied tightly back and allowed
to fall straight down from the neck. They wore
scarlet skirts and white kimono with figures in

STONE LANTERNS AND CRYPTOMERIAS AT NARA

NARA 213

gold and blue ; two eriy inside kerchiefs of white
and of scarlet, lay against their smooth throats.
Very sober and dignified were these maidens, —
as utterly in earnest as the solemn priestesses of
the tea ceremony, with but a shadowy smile occa-
sionally visible. This dance is called kagura
(heavenly enjoyment). I paid one yen for my
share in the lofty amusement, and a yens worth
is sufficient ; but if one choose, he may stay all
day and spend fifty yen.

Four gods are worshiped at Kasuga Temple,
ancient personages in Japanese mythology with
memory-defying names, — Takemikatsu chi-no-mi-
koto, Futsunushi-no-mikoto, Amatsukoyane-no-mi-
koto ; while the fourth is a goddess, Himiongami.

For over seventy years Nara remained the capi-
tal of Japan, before Kyoto, but the Mikado's local
palace has long since disappeared. Partly burned,
the remainder was bought and carried off bodily
by merchants and carpenters, for use in building
their own houses. Altogether, seven emperors
lived in Nara, and Kasuga Temple, built by Sho-
toku, stands near the sacred hill Mykasa-yama,
often sung in Japanese poetry.

A fine pagoda, nearly as large but not so richly
carved as the one at Nikko, belongs to still an-
other temple, the Kobukuji ; it was built by the
Empress Komyo, over a thousand years ago ; and
everybody tells you that a superb pine before it is
at least as old.

214 CORONA AND CORONET

Nara possesses also a very sacred though rather
restless and impatient white horse, with bright
blue eyes and bushy mane, an albino among ani-
mals, securely fastened in a very small shrine, tail
where one would expect the manger. But it is
easy for the passing traveler to feed him with
beans for a quarter of a cent, and to worship or
not as he chooses. This was but the fifth horse
encountered in two weeks, so we were not forced
to grieve actively over one of the articles in our
passports, which forbids attending fires on horse-
back. Japan is a land of fires, but not of saddle-
horses.

Struggling masses of turtle, goldfish, and carp
contend for a bit of bread thrown into the pond
(Sarusawa no Ike) ; a sheet of water chiefly fa-
mous because centuries ago a certain young girl
at the palace, thinking she had lost the Emperor's
affection, here drowned herself. The monarch,
coming afterward to its banks, composed in her
honor a poem, now cut upon a stone slab standing
some distance out from shore; its waters, he
recites, can never become dry, because composed
of the maiden's tears.

Another story told by Nara people partakes
more of the supernatural. A certain governor
called Shijo caught one of the sacred tortoises
from this pond, thinking to bake it in his pan,
foreseeing an especially delicious meal. But when

NARA 215

he took off the cover — behold ! the imprisoned
dainty had taken itself off miraculously, saved by
compassion of the god of Kasuga.

Summer rain descended softly during most of
our days at Nara, — increasing occasionally to
heaviest tropical intensity, and on the way to
Kobe the whole country was practically under
water. Rice-fields and gardens were submerged,
little houses made islands of themselves, and
small boys, arrayed with simplicity impossible to
excel, paddled about ecstatically among trees and
over fences. We afterward found that the entire
island was seriously flooded, and railway travel
everywhere interrupted.

CHAPTER XXII

YACHTING IN THE INLAND SEA

A level floor of amethyst,
Crowned by a golden dome of mist.

Longfellow.

Since it had been found impracticable to take
the Coronet into the Inland Sea and she had re-
turned to Yokohama, the Captain had chartered
a native steamer, the Miyako-maru, for the Sea
trip, a craft somewhat larger than the Coronet,
and carrying a crew of twenty-eight.

Built exclusively for native use, the fittings of
the Miyako-maru, including staterooms, height of
ceilings, and galley appointments, were diminutive
in scale ; causing much merriment in the com-
pany, two of whom occupied the saloon, where
they could stand upright if directly under the
skylight. Ordinarily that apartment would carry
thirty or forty native passengers. But the vessel
was entirely new, and satisfactory, even if, as in
Japanese inns, lesser toilet arrangements were in
the public eye, and confined to one small brass
basin, a pitcher, and a tumbler.

Members of the crew were greatly interested in
the foreigners, which class they had heretofore

YACHTING IN THE INLAND SEA

217

had slender opportunity to observe, — nor did they
neglect the occasion.

The unclassified member of the party had at
last to face a genuine division of the ways. To
be sure of seeing the eclipse, now two weeks
away, she must start at once upon the long jour-
ney to Esashi, more than fifteen hundred miles
intervening between Kobe, where the Miyako-
maru awaited its passengers, and expedition head-
quarters in Kitami Province. But starting at once
meant abandonment of the trip through the far-
famed Inland Sea. Methods of possible travel to
northern Yezo were an unknown quantity; how
many days would be used in getting there en-
tirely uncertain. Fear of being late for the eclipse
prevailed, and reluctant good-bys were therefore
said to the non- astronomical friends (who still
hoped to reach Esashi by the ninth of August) at
the very entrance of their trip through Japan's
enchanted waters.

Three of the voyagers upon the Miyako-maru
have kindly lent me their Inland Sea journals in
describing certain places not usually visited by
foreigners, and a combination of portions of the
three records has been effected, with occasional
verbatim quotations.

During the first day Awaji was passed, which
according to tradition was earliest formed of all
the lovely island group in the Sea ; and on reach-

2i8 CORONA AND CORONET

ing a land-locked harbor on the south shore of
Shodoshima, the TVIiyako-maru cast anchor off
Nomamura. Near by, and easily reached by a
short row, is a tiny island with a torii and a neg-
lected shrine to the goddess Benten.

The scenery grew constantly more beautiful
as hours and days went on, islands clustering so
thickly that " exit seemed impossible, and entrance
a dream," strait after strait opening and closing in
vistas of loveliness. Inland Sea currents were
found very swift in places, twisting unwieldy junks
around like toy boats. Even the staunch Miyako-
maru was occasionally forced to hug the shore.

At Tadotsu much curiosity was evinced as to
the strange visitors ; and a train was taken there
for Kotohera, to visit the Shinto temple of Kom-
pira on a green hillside, where a god especially
presiding over the fortunes of seamen is wor-
shiped with unusual zeal. The Miyako-maru's
native captain repaired thither at once, paying his
devotions, like most sailors, with much fervor.
Five hundred and seventy-two stone steps lead to
the temple, — a warm climb on a July day. All
the way little shops offered trinkets for pilgrims,
and sacred horses demanded tribute from the
faithful. The fine view and breeze rewarded the
travelers, resting at the summit under grand old
trees. The temple is simple ; one of its buildings
contains a green gohei^ the paper prayer of Shinto,

YACHTING IN THE INLAND SEA 219

and a mirror ; there are, also, many paintings
of scenes in storms, and fanciful accidents from
which this deity is supposed to rescue his faithful
worshipers.

On a point just beyond Tomo a little temple
to Kwannon was charmingly situated, approached
by a covered stairway. Onomichi, "Tail city," is
stretched along the narrow channel farther on,
with several fine temples on the hillside, — a laby-
rinth of islands, atmosphere dreamy, colors exqui-
site.

Ondo seto^ or strait, could not be passed until
full tide, which gave opportunity to anchor in a
little bay where fishermen were spreading a net
across the current, singing as they drew it. Pass-
ing the narrow opening at any time seemed an
impossible achievement. The "hidden door" is
exceedingly narrow, the current swift. On one
side a stone lantern stood out in the water ; on
the other a village so near that a pebble might
have been tossed into its street.

Wandering at one's own sweet will through the
beauties of the Inland Sea, unrestricted by tra-
ditions of regular trips taken by average tourists,
is undoubtedly pleasant, save an occasional draw-
back. The native captain suggested anchoring
one night in the harbor of Kure ; during the late
war, and still, an important naval station. Re-
strictions against foreigners are so severe that

220 CORONA AND CORONET

special passports would have given the Coronet
no permission to enter this harbor; but as the
Miyako - maru was a Japanese vessel, sailing
through these halcyon waters under the full sun
flag, no trouble was anticipated. The journals
tell the story : —

*'As we were preparing to anchor, a launch
from the station came out, an officer boarding and
demanding of the captain what he meant by com-
ing in without showing special signals, giving his
name and other information. It seems that all ves-
sels, even in passing the harbor, must show these
flags, and our captain had committed a grave mis-
take, as our vessel was so new he had not yet
received them from the Admiralty. He was in-
formed that in this case he had no right to come
in at all — and his reasons were asked. He re-
plied that the vessel was chartered by foreigners
who were traveling slowly through the Inland
Sea, and after much parley as to our purpose and
destination, the launch returned to shore for in-
structions from the head officer. It soon came
back, with a subordinate officer on board who
marched to our bridge and took command, order-
ing us back through Ondo Strait. Passing the
narrow channel once more in safety, he remarked
that our captain was apparently experienced
enough in these waters to have known better
than to make the awkward blunder of entering
Kure harbor without his flags.

YACHTING IN THE INLAND SEA 221

"We cast anchor just where we had been an
hour or two earlier, and then heard that our cap-
tain must be taken back to appear before the
authorities at the station.

" It looked seriously as if we might be delayed
a long time, as the captain was liable to a fine of
at least ;^75.oo and withdrawal of his license —
even possible imprisonment ; and we were all
practically under arrest, and might not be able
to finish our cruise in time to get to the eclipse
station in Yezo.

" Expostulation with the officer now began.
The objects of our pleasure trip were detailed,
and what a serious matter it would be to delay us
was shown ; our special passports were exhibited,
also letters from the governor of Kobe asking
especial courtesy from governors of all these pro-
vinces.

" This explanation happily worked a good effect.
In consideration of the papers showing what * fa-
mous fellows ' we were, he said he would let the
captain off. The young officer was very polite
all through, assuring us that the difficulty did
not concern us in the least except in delaying us.
Okita added to possible horrors of the situation
by telling us that the captain's children would
probably have been given away for adoption, his
wife divorced, and the home broken up. Instead
he was graciously pardoned.

222 CORONA AND CORONET

"■ We Steamed as far as Nakashima in beautiful
moonlight, thinking it wiser to get away before a
possible change of mind at the naval station. But
we went on the outer side of this island instead of
braving the dangers of Ondo Strait for a third
time. We all sat on the bridge and sang, under a
brilliant night sky, gliding through water which
sparkled like gold lacquer."

A most beautiful as well as celebrated spot in
the sea is the sacred island of Miyajima. Ap-
proach to it was in the early morning, when a
rosy mist of sunrise lay between the steamer and
the hillside. Close to the shore lay boats of fish-
ermen, who sang one refrain while in the boat
drawing the net, and another when pulling it up
on the beach.

The island is unmistakable from its unique fea-
ture, the famous torii of camphor wood, which at
high tide stands well out in the water. And it is
shrouded in an atmosphere of more legend and
romance than hovers about either of the other
famous places, which with it comprise the san-keiy
"three great sights of Japan."

At flood-tide the temple seems to float on a sil-
ver sea ; and all the little dwellers of the deep
pitch their tiny tents on its stone piers. Bridges
and galleries connect the shrines and different
buildings, and boats can be rowed up to the very
holy of holies. When the tide is out, stepping-

YACHTING IN THE INLAND SEA 223

Stones enable the pilgrim to go through the courts
in more prosaic fashion.

Built sometime in the sixth century, the temple
passed from Shinto to Buddhist and later to
Shinto again, and fires and fanaticism wrought
sad havoc. The relics are now carefully preserved
and watched ; and many beautiful things have
been added in later days. Far aside from the line
of that tourist travel which has despoiled many
another spot once full of the poetry of old Japan,
Miyajima bids fair to revel in legendary atmo-
sphere for long years to come, — with sacred
deer, no less tame and half-human than the pretty
creatures at Nara, with innocent-hearted priests,
and the reposeful silence of leafy maple groves.

It was just before the annual matstiri, which
here is celebrated upon the water, with boats in-
stead of decorated cars as elsewhere. Preparation
for this great occasion was in active progress
when the mystic galleries of Miyajima were vis-
ited. When, on festival night, eight hundred
lamps of the temple are lighted, and masses of
people assemble with songs and rejoicing, it is a
resplendent scene, depending upon high tide for
point of departure.

In this enchanted island no one dies, and no
one is born. Sadness and pain are ferried across
to the Aki shore. Blissful serenity has been its
portion for centuries.

224 CORONA AND CORONET

Okita, ever faithful to the proprieties, although
personally lacking any marked religious prefer-
ence, as he amiably announced, threw a glittering
ten sen piece into the shrine, just in advance
of two somewhat aged worshipers, who, clapping
their hands to attract the attention of the god,
muttered some unintelligible prayer probably for
good luck. Apparently they thought the deity
had smiled upon them rather quickly, for depos-
iting one rin at the sacred spot, they quietly
removed Okita's bright money, making by this
transaction ninety-nine rin. As they were calmly
departing, Okita, notified of the fraud put upon
the gods, called after the ancient couple energeti-
cally that they . had taken consecrated money
— whereupon returning, they smilingly threw it
back.

Shimonoseki is full of historic interest, from
the time, in the third century, when the Empress
Jingo started from Toyoura near by to conquer
Korea, until the twelfth century and the battle of
Dannoura ; more recently still, the bombardment
of Maida by the allied fleets in 1863, and most
lately of all the stirring scenes of the war with
China. Fine forts, guarding the harbor in both
directions, fleets of junks with sails spread, and
the channel shut in by steep hills bristling with
black guns, offer a sharp contrast with the sunny
silence and peaceful enchantment of Miyajima.

YACHTING IN THE INLAND SEA 225

The Miyako-maru approached the city, stretching
three miles along the narrow margin of land be-
tween sea and mountain, through a strait which
was a scene of much activity during the Chinese
war, transport ships all starting there. In the
Fujino tea-house opposite, a delicious luncheon
was provided, beneath the large room in which
the treaty with China was signed, April 17th, 1895.
Li Hung Chang occupied a temple close by, and
in the street outside he was shot while being car-
ried in his kago from the tea-house to the temple.
His boys ran on with him to the steps, and alight-
ing, he remarked, as blood trickled down his face,
that he doubted if ever before a foreign ambassa-
dor had been assassinated while negotiating a
treaty. Count Ito, and Count Mutsu, formerly
minister at Washington, stayed at the Daikichi,
an inn on the principal street, below the tea-
house.

At evening the voyagers asked for an upper
room as a "moon-gazing" place, thus gaining a
fine sight of the full moon rising over the hills
across the strait. Shimonoseki is picturesque at
night, with paper lanterns swinging in the breeze,
but not overclean or fragrant.

Clothing in these regions was scanty, — occa-
sionally a woman was happily taking her bath in
a tub set in the middle of a street. One's mod-
esty seems able to survive seeing people with

226 CORONA AND CORONET

slight raiment, or with almost none at all, but
when in addition, as sometimes happens, they
shave their heads, it becomes positively shocking.

A place even less conventional was Beppu, on
the return voyage to Kobe. Kiushiu Island is
famous for hot alkali baths, supposed to cure
leprosy and other ills. Here men, women, and
children were partaking of this benefit indiscrimi-
nately, in the public tanks, while in a large build-
ing sat others waiting, their clothing left neatly
in boxes along the wall. From the deck of the
Myako-maru people could be seen bathing on the
beach, digging holes for themselves in the sand,
or sitting in the warm water with umbrellas over
their heads.

A police officer, sent on board to make sure
that all was right, seemed rather confused at
sight of foreigners, and being shown the pass-
ports was manifestly unable to determine what to
do with them. He confessed frankly at length
that he had never seen one before. On shore
Americans were equally strange, and, as in all
remote Japanese towns, troops of people, young
and old, followed in a lively procession.

The intention was to remain anchored off
Beppu until midnight, that Matsuyama might be
reached early in the morning. But at evening,
the sailors having had leave during the day, which
was Sunday, the Miyako-maru became the scene

YACHTING IN THE INLAND SEA 227

of various incidents. The journals again tell the
story : —

" Most of the under officers and crew had been
drinking sake on shore. Being in port, neither
captain nor first officer seemed to have proper
control. We attempted to keep back one of the
men who tried to come aft without his clothes ;
one of his friends took his part ; sampans along-
side were selling more sake ; and as the crew
gradually came on board, girls from the tea-houses
escorting them, shouts and hilarity from forward
grew apace. Lest the entertainment should wax
riotous we decided to weigh anchor and get off at
once, thinking it less safe to remain than to trust
the navigation of a drunken crew.

"Accordingly the whistle was blown and the
siren given, but it was not until eleven o'clock
that all were on board, and we could start. We
took turns on the watch all night, — some on the
bridge, others at the engine room ; while the
Doctor slept across the entrance of the saloon as
a guard to the ladies : a sort of ' devil protector.'
Sunday rest was not found beneficial to the crew.

" When we awakened at five o'clock the men
were at work as usual, and everything apparently
quiet. We abandoned Matsuyama, on the island
of Shikoku, being afraid to give the crew leave
again. Instead we went straight on to the whirl-
pool between Shikoku and Awaji.

228 CORONA AND CORONET

" Anchoring off Tubi, a sampan took us to see
the rushing current of Naruto Channel, — less a
sight than anticipated, probably because the tide
was setting in the wrong direction. Landing
after a hard pull, we scrambled over boulders
like the New England coast, and up a steep hill,
where a fine view was met, of islands, strait, and
far blue sea. After this an ideal cruise back to
Kobe, where home messages again annihilated
space and time."

CHAPTER XXIII

EXPEDITION EXPERIENCES

O, what a load

Of care and toil,

By lying use bestowed,

From his shoulders falls who sees

The true astronomy,

The period of peace.

Emerson, The Celestial Love.

Ah ! well I mind the Calendar ;
Faithful through a thousand years.

Emerson, May-Day.

The northern voyagers had made no sign for
many days, except an occasional telegram as to
progress in the novel journey. But just as I was
starting for Esashi, and the travelers in the south
were about to embark upon the Inland Sea, and
the experiences related in the last chapter, a jour-
nal arrived, in which Chief had minutely chroni-
cled, for our edification, an account of the daily
adventures of these scientific gentlemen.

Beginning faithfully with their departure by
train from Tokyo in the heat of that first day of
July, the outline of their story follows, in the
veracious words of their historian : —

. . . "The cook was in a second-class car and
the mechanic in a third-class car, and our grub in

230 CORONA AND CORONET

the baggage car. Stops were so short and our
command of the language so Hmited that to get
either the cook or the mechanic out in time to
tell the baggage-master that we wanted to get
out a package seemed a very serious undertaking,
and several stations were passed without anything
accomplished in the commissary department.
About four o'clock a man came along with pack-
ages of Japanese luncheon, consisting of two neat
wooden boxes, one containing cooked rice, the
other a variety of other food, such as daikouy
ginger root, a kind of omelet, seaweed, — which
looked like fine-cut tobacco and tasted as though
the same had been soaked in fish oil ; also a kind
of dark brown substance of the consistency of
jujube paste, but of quite a different flavor. We
invested in some of this, — but there was plenty
left. Then we all became thirsty. There was a
small table in the middle of the car supplied with
a pot of water, and three tumblers. We were
afraid to drink, and here your devoted servant
distinguished himself by volunteering to get beer.
"At the next station he found quart bottles
that looked as if they contained beer, and he un-
derstood the girl to say they contained beer ; so
he bought them and returned to the car trium-
phantly. Upon opening the first bottle, however,
it was not beer, but sake. We mixed some of this
with the water and drank, but with sad counte-

EXPEDITION EXPERIENCES 231

nances. It naturally followed that the others
*had fun' with Chief.

. . . *'Soon after this a determined attempt was
made to get at the package of eatables. No one
could remember the size or shape of it, so it was
necessary to get into the baggage car and make a
thorough search. Andrew had the checks. At
the next station I hunted up the cook, and the
mechanic appeared from somewhere ; by the time
we got the baggage master to understand the sit-
uation it was time to start again. Finally by lock-
ing Andrew up with the baggage master from
one station to the next we found it.

"About this time they lugged out the little
table containing water, and replaced it by one con-
taining an outfit for tea.

" We made a nice evening meal with crackers,
potted quail, tea, and so on.

" There was room enough in the car for us par-
tially to stretch out for our night's rest, and sleep
came sooner or later. I was some time getting
into the land of dreams, and it required some
miles to take all of me away from Yokohama har-
bor and the Coronet.

" The next day was cool and comfortable, and
we arrived in good shape on time at Aomori.
There was plenty of irksome duty here, finding
carts and sampans to get our traps from the sta-
tion to the steamer for crossing the strait to

232 CORONA AND CORONET

Hakodate. We all had to act as vanguards or
rearguards to see that nothing was lost.

" On the steamer, finding that no food of any
kind could be obtained, we decided to return to
the town and take supper at the tea-house. We
were able to get omelet, boiled eggs, chicken cut
into small pieces and cooked with onions, the lat-
ter being very good, except they had put sugar in
it. As you were not here to give me a game of
chess, I partook freely of everything.

" We had a very merry time here. Everybody
tried to speak the language, and the girls in wait-
ing were inclined to be sociable. When Andrew
and one of them conversed, one in Russian, the
other in Japanese, it was very amusing. . . . We
returned to the steamer about 9.30, sailing at ten
for Hakodate, and arriving there at five in the
morning.

"At Hakodate we found our special steamer
had not yet arrived, so we landed everything.
Fortunately the hotel was near the pier, and there
was not much trouble. About nine o'clock the
steamer arrived, and Mr. Thompson came on
shore. [He had gone with the apparatus from
Yokohama all the way by water.] They had had
rough weather. In the night the packages got
adrift, and one of them struck Mr. Thompson on
the head, making a slight wound. He is all right
now. As pro tempore doctor of the expedition I
examined him, and so report. . . .

EXPEDITION EXPERIENCES 233

" Otaru, July 4th. In the afternoon I went with
the Professor by rail to Sapporo. . . . We went
to a large hotel on the European plan, and were
delighted to find delicious strawberries and fine
cherries. Before dinner we called on the governor
of Hokkaido. . . . Sapporo, July 5th. Soon after
breakfast the governor arrived with Mr. Nozawa,
who has since been detailed to accompany us and
remain a few days at our station. Everything we
expected was accomplished. The governor will
write to the local governor at Esashi to receive us
and assist to the best of his ability. Soon after
the governor left, Professor Nitobe called on Pro-
fessor Todd. He is connected with the Imperial
Agricultural College at Sapporo, and he married
an American lady from Philadelphia. Professor
Todd returned with him. Otaru, July 6th. Left
for Otaru at 9.35 a. m. in company with Mr. No-
zawa, above-mentioned. He is to remain with us
a few days, and afterward make a tour of inspec-
tion through certain portions of Hokkaido in the
interests of fisheries and oyster beds. Also I had
with me the student Mr. Oshima, and a police offi-
cial, as permanent guard at Esashi. . . . We sailed
about 2.30. The captain and officers are agree-
able, and do everything for our comfort. It is very
cool up in this region — too cool for comfort, in
fact. There is much talk about the flies and mos-
quitoes we are expected to encounter in camp.

234 CORONA AND CORONET

The prospect of being enveloped in a veil of net-
ting hanging from the rim of one's hat, and hav-
ing the face anointed with a mixture of castor oil
and tar, is not inviting. . . . Some work is being
done on board. A heavy wooden frame for coun-
terbalancing the three-story instrument platforms
is in process of construction, and parts of the pipe
connection are being screwed together to save
time at the station.

*' At sea, July 7th. ... A strong wind blowing
and the sea coming up. About 8 a. m. we ran
into a place called Wakkanai, to telegraph to Esa-
shi as to sea and weather at that port, as there is
no harbor at that place, and it would be impossi-
ble to unload our traps with the present condi-
tions. . . . We are to wait in this locality until
there is a change of weather. I don't like it.
Professor Todd takes it calmly, however, and we
are doing pretty good work on board. I have
donned my overalls and jacket and help a little.

"July 8th. . . . The weather moderating to-
ward night we got under way with the intention of
feeling our way to Cape Soya, and anchoring just
inside the cape if too rough to venture outside.

"July 9th. Just a solid month before the
eclipse. We did not go outside last night, the
wind having increased somewhat ; about ten o'clock
this morning, however, we started for Esashi. It
was rough work rounding the Cape Horn of

EXPEDITION EXPERIENCES 235

Japan. . . . Esashi, July lOth. This has been an
eventful day, inasmuch as we have finally reached
Esashi, taken possession of our camp, have every-
thing unloaded and under cover. Professor Todd
and Mr. Nozawa went on shore early in the morn-
ing, met the local governor, and arranged every-
thing at short order. . . . The town itself is not
very large, a fishing village, one or two Japanese
hotels, a few shops. There is a very strong odor
of fish, but our place has it less than elsewhere.
There are small flies about, but I have n't heard
any complaints from members of the party, and
neither netting, castor oil, nor tar has been men-
tioned as yet. However, it is still cool, and the
wind is from the sea. . . . The cook has such a
display of hams, bacon, etc., in his quarters that it
looks like a corner grocery. . . . The Commandant
of the Alger and the French astronomers have
called, also the governor of this province.

"Saturday, July nth. The day has been con-
sumed in getting up the piers for the main station,
setting up tents, and opening crates that contain
the portable house. The weather has cleared up
nicely, and the sun was out at eclipse time this
afternoon. . . .

*' Sunday, July 12th. Just four weeks before
the eclipse. It is a clear day, warm in the sun,
but cool in the shade. . . . Tell 'Doc' that I
came near having a serious case in my capacity as

236 CORONA AND CORONET

assistant surgeon. A day or two ago one of the
party tumbled over a pile of tent poles, and came
down. He did n't get up at once, and said his leg
was out of joint at the knee. Instantly after he
said *It 's all right, it has slipped back into place.'
I was much bothered when it first happened, —
I knew something should be done at once, but
whether to have him pulled out straight or dou-
bled up I was n't sure. As he was already doubled
up I think the first would have been proper.
When he said. ' all right ' I promptly produced the
Pond's Extract and recommended rest. . . .

" July 1 3th. This morning I came to the front
again rather unexpectedly. I had started work on
those everlasting plate-holders again, when Profes-
sor Todd called out that my professional services
as doctor were requested at the French camp.
One of the sailors was ill, the Alger had gone off
for a few days, and they had no surgeon. So I
took my bottles and paper of instructions that
* Doc ' provided, and went up there with Professor
Todd, and the assistant who came down for me.
I explained that I was not really possessed of a
medical education, but they were welcome to the
medicine and the directions for use. . . . While
there they wished me also to look at a sick sheep.
They have a number of sheep in a tent. I felt
the sheep's pulse, but doubt if I got hold of the
right leg. I recommended rest. . . . This after-

EXPEDITION EXPERIENCES 237

noon the report comes that both parties are about
the same. I 'm thankful they 're no worse.

"July 14th. We have two flag-poles erected,
one for the stars and stripes, with Amherst colors,
and the other for the Japanese flag. They are
symmetrically placed at the ends of our inclosure.
... I hear from Professor Todd that at a meet-
ing of the good citizens of this place, it was voted
that on eclipse day there should be no wood fires
made. Either cooking will be done the day before,
or charcoal used in place of wood. This is to
secure a clear atmosphere. Work on the portable
house goes slowly. Theoretically it should be put
together in a few hours. Practically it takes a
good while to get things to fit. ... I find myself
feeling a little depressed to-night. The cook gave
us some Japanese soup for supper. Perhaps it 's
that. . . .

"July 1 6th. The portable house is about fin-
ished outside. The different tubes for the lenses
are being made ready to be bolted on to the plat-
form, and lots of small work — overhauling and
adjusting the plate mechanisms — is going on. . . .
We had some washing done. Of course we don't
mind such a little thing as undershirts starched
and trousers creased the wrong way. . . . My
duties to-day have been verily like that of Jack-at-
all-trades. I have taken up electrical business,
connecting galvanic batteries. Then I play car-

238 CORONA AND CORONET

penter, and screw small boxes on to a wheel ; then
I paint a lot of square pieces of wood ; and from
that I go to cutting out rectangular pieces of
black velvet, and gluing them on to the inside of
the boxes. ... As to affairs out in town — there
seems to be a great scarcity of small change. It
is impossible to get even a yen changed. To make
a small purchase at the shop near here, I had to
leave the yen and take a due-bill for the balance,
to be traded out afterward. . . . The others still
run me a little about mess affairs. At the table
when anything appears they say, 'What 's this com-
ing, Chief .? ' As I have n't the least idea what it
is, I say, * A little surprise for you to-day.* When
I do say anything to the cook there seems to be a
misunderstanding. Seeing onions for sale in town
I suggested that we have some occasionally. The
very next night, as a last course, when we usually
have canned fruit or preserves, he served up two
stewed onions to each of us. They were very
nice, but why didn't they come earlier in the
meal } . , .

" July 29th. There has been quite a little ex-
citement in our town to-day. A few days ago the
village officer or mayor went to Mombetsu to get
the Emperor's portrait. It has been presented to
the village school. A new schoolhouse is to be
dedicated on the nth of August, and the picture
is then to be displayed. Now it seems that when

EXPEDITION EXPERIENCES 22,9

the Emperor's portrait travels about, it must be
treated with the same respect as himself would be.
So this afternoon there has been a little ceremony
connected with the landing of the portrait from
the steamer.

" A new sampan, having a canopy draped about
with purple, and roofed with white bunting, was
towed out to the steamer, by another sampan
pulled by a large number of men. Plenty of flags
displayed, of course, on both sampans, and also
many flags and red and white lanterns shown
along the streets. The portrait was inclosed in
a square box, covered with white cloth and fur-
nished with four legs ; and two poles were fas-
tened to it, so it could be carried on the shoulders
of two men. All along the route from the landing
to the schoolhouse, little hills of sand had been
previously placed. Just before the procession
started, these were made into a path, so that the
Emperor would have had new soil to walk on had
he not been his picture. The box was carried by
men in white kimono and black hats shaped some-
thing like a bishop's mitre. The school children
with their holiday clothes and unusually clean
faces looked quite sweet. They were marched
down to the landing and formed into two lines,
the girls on one side, and the boys on the other.
As the portrait passed, the entire school chanted
slowly the Japanese national anthem. Afterward

240 CORONA AND CORONET

they re-formed, and followed it to the schoolhouse.
I could not avoid the impression that they were
going to bury it somewhere. . . .

"July 31st. We are looking for Mrs. Todd
daily now. . . . Professor Todd told me yesterday
that he thought everything was going on well,
and that all he had planned would be finished in
time.

" August I St. A steamer arrived from Otaru,
but Mrs. Todd was not on board, neither did it
bring us letters.

" August 2d. This would have been a good
eclipse day. Advantage was taken of the sun's
presence to run the glycerine clock. Professor
Todd is very much pleased with its action.

" August 3d. Only five more working days be-
fore the day that must bring us the Corona or
bitter disappointment. To-day has been fine for
the most part. At eclipse time the sun was out
in good shape.

" August 5th. Mrs. Todd arrived this morning,
and we were all glad to see her. We are very
busy, but hopeful. There is a chance to send let-
ters, so I have caught a few minutes' time to close
this last installment of my journal and send it. I
have n't corrected the proof, so make out the best
you can."

CHAPTER XXIV

THE TIDAL WAVE

Ruin itself stands still for lack of work,
And Desolation keeps unbroken Sabbath.

Left by one tide and cancelled by the next.

James Montgomery, The Pelican Islattd.

Yet must thou hear a voice, — Restore the dead !
Earth shall reclaim her precious things from thee : —
Restore the dead, thou sea !

Felicia Hemans, The Treasures of the Deep.

While the expedition was thus setting up its
apparatus, writing journals for comrades in the
main island, and preparing for the eclipse at
Esashi — while the Inland Sea party was still
exploring the remote bays and straits of those
fairy waters, and studying the native character
under new conditions, I was hastening northward
from one to the other.

In looking about for a guide or interpreter to
accompany me to the far wilds of Yezo, I had
been fortunate in meeting a young Japanese, for-
merly a student at the Doshisha in Kyoto, who
speaks excellent English, and is a good French
and German scholar as well. He particularly
loves astronomy, has used the telescope at the
University, and is a member of a well known

242 CORONA AND CORONET

German Society. As for astronomical books in
English, he has read much ; Newcomb, Cham-
bers, Ball, Miss Gierke, and their brotherhood —
all are equally familiar to him.

Modern methods of observing an eclipse he
had longed to see, as well as the phenomenon it-
self. Although his social position as student and
teacher is far above that of interpreter, he was
willing to go in that capacity, even running the
risk of temporary caste misinterpretation, for the
sake of seeing the astronomers and their work at
Esashi. His father was once chief of the island
of Shikoku in the Inland Sea, and the boy's whole
life has been spent in arduous study.
■ Difficulties in learning scholarly Japanese alone
are very great, even to a native ; and it is said to
require no less than seven years for a child to be-
come sufficiently familiar with Ghinese characters
to use them easily. Besides the purely Japanese
alphabet, invented by Kobo Daishi, it is necessary
to know about twenty thousand characters before
the classics can be intelligently read, even news-
papers making use of twelve thousand.

These must be memorized, and the eye and
hand trained to distinguish and delineate the faint-
est curve or variation in a line. With their own
literature rich in fiction, fable or mythology, le-
gend, and poetry, it was no wonder that all this
and a good knowledge of other languages and lit-

THE TIDAL WAVE 243

eratures filtered through it, should have made
Murakami-san's cheeks pale and thin, his physical
vitality largely burned out by over-exercise of
brain. But he admitted no fatigue of any kind,
and started joyfully on the long journey to inter-
pret as might be required.

Very quiet and retiring, he preferred Japanese
food on steamer and train, staying quite by him-
self except when needed, — practically little for
many days ; for a few Japanese words go far, most
officials speak English in varying degrees, and
travel is comparatively easy for unaccompanied
foreigners.

The floods which had set all the rice -fields
afloat around Nara and Osaka were widely extend-
ing, and I had finally to abandon my pleasant
scheme of following exactly the route of the expe-
dition, passing through the familiar city of Shira-
kawa, whose old castle was our happy seven
weeks' abiding place many years before. The fine
mountain scenery farther north must also be un-
visited, for the railroad was impassable at certain
points, and might require several days for entire
repair.

So another Yusen Kaisha steamer, Tairen-maru,
was taken for Hakodate, and possibly Otaru.
How Esashi could be reached from there was
misty but enticing, as I rather hoped it might be
necessary to travel a few days by packhorse over

244 CORONA AND CORONET

hitherto untrodden wilds, a few Yezo bears in
the background and the " hairy Ainu " as hosts.
However that might be, the next immediate stage
of the journey was clearly defined.

All along the eastern coast of the main island,
as the Tairen-maru kept her steady way north-
ward, were sad reminders of the tidal wave, now
more than a month in the past. Supplies and
money still being sent to the survivors, we stopped
for two or three hours at Oginohama, near the
southern end of the afflicted region, to leave a
variety of necessities for the suffering people.

The town was dirty and sordid, but blossoming
white lilies and purple hydrangea brightened it,
and our own familiar clematis climbed all over
shrubs and even trees on the mountain path lead-
ing past a pathetic little burial place. Just be-
yond was a Shinto shrine, full of gohei (sticks with
fluttering paper prayers), a good many spirited
drawings of a cock and hens, and a spherical bell
with a thick red cord attached by which to ring
attention from the presiding, but perhaps other-
wise occupied, deity. A steep climb, accompanied
by numerous little girls with babies on their
backs, brought me to a larger Shinto temple with
a mirror and rough drawings of horses. Over-
head, tall cryptomerias shaded a spot doubtless
charming in a sunny day, but rather too moist for
comfort under gently falling summer rain.

THE TIDAL WAVE 245

Oginohama received no damage from the great
deluge, its harbor being on the inner side of a
long promontory. The havoc was greatest in
small but open bays near by, where the water
heaped itself to appalling heights.

Japanese papers and magazines were still full
of pathetic details of the great catastrophe, theo-
ries for its cause and reports of assistance to the
survivors. Inability to read the complicated char-
acters describing all these interesting matters as
we passed along the afflicted shore was an exas-
perating drawback, for an extensive current litera-
ture pertaining to this subject covered the table
in the Tairen-maru cabin. Murakami kindly read
the articles to me, which probably lost much of
their graphic character in verbal translation. But
the harrowing and realistic illustrations by native
artists needed no interpreter.

The day of the tragedy, 15 th June, — according
to the Old Calendar fifth day of fifth month —
was an annual festival ; and in many villages the
primitive seaside folk had been hilariously cele-
brating when singular noises were heard, pre-
ceding the melancholy interruption. Curiously
enough, barometers gave no advance indication of
impending disaster ; but on the morning of the
fifteenth, an old woman noticed that the water in
her well had almost disappeared. She is said to
have told her neighbors that a great tidal wave

246 CORONA AND CORONET

was coming, though no one paid serious attention
to her prediction.

When the wave was actually advancing, three
of them, in fact, running shoreward from south-
east to northwest, the receding water is reported
to have laid the sands bare for a distance of
eighteen hundred feet, white and glistening grue-
somely in the murky night. Wave length from
the first monster to the crest of the following one
was not less than from twelve to sixteen hundred
feet. Ten minutes completed the entire devasta-
tion.

In Kamaishi the director of the telegraph office
saw his entire family washed away before his eyes ;
nevertheless, safe himself, he at once proceeded
to hunt for his broken and scattered instruments
among the debris. Owing to his faithful bravery
and presence of mind, communication with the
outside world was soon opened.

The avalanche of waters swept three times into
the town, the first most terrible. In less than
two minutes all houses standing in the lower part
of the town were quite swept away, and thousands
of persons suffocated or battered to death. But
three storehouses ("go-downs") were left stand-
ing. Had the approach of this fatal watery moun-
tain been anticipated for even a few minutes,
many who perished might easily have saved them-
selves.

THE TIDAL WAVE 247

The "chief officer" or head man of the town
was conversmg with three callers when they heard
the roar of unfamiliar waters. Jumping directly
out from the upper story he and one of his friends
took flight for high ground and escaped, while the
other two, waiting to go down by the stairs, were
caught by the flood. Four steamers anchored
near the shore were carried inland and stranded
in fields, almost without injury. Schooners and
junks in rice fields were a common sight all
along the coast. One small boat was caught in
the forked limb of a tree. The water was re-
ported in many places as eighty feet higher than
the highest tide ever known, while one village
remained in complete and apparently permanent
oblivion beneath the sea. A few persons saved
themselves by breaking through the roofs of their
houses and there clinging until washed ashore,
hours or even days afterward. While those over-
whelmed were chiefly poor fishermen who lost not
only houses and household goods, but their small
gardens and crops and all their nets and boats,
many farmers also were ruined, and cultivators of
silkworms ; the food supplies of whole provinces
disappeared. Papers were full of incidents, hor-
ribly tragic, and details of saddest meaning. One
young girl in trying to save both her grandmo-
ther and a little child lost her own life and prob-
ably theirs as well; when her body was found

248 CORONA AND CORONET

one hand was grasping remnants of her grand-
mother's dress, while the other still held tightly
fragments of the baby's little kimono. The pre-
vailing and unalterable love and respect in which
older persons are held in Japan is never more
tenderly illustrated than in scenes like these. A
native picture represents a man for an instant
undecided whether he shall save parents, or wife
and children. Characteristically seizing his aged
mother, he is shown rushing with her in his arms
to a place of safety, while wife and child, trying
vainly to follow, are clutching at his dress in de-
spair.

In one village the force of the wave was so
great that one hundred pine-trees over ten feet
in circumference were entirely torn away, leaving
only their broken roots. But in other places men
and women washed into the tops of trees were
safely stranded — climbing down to the ground
when danger was past.

More than one hundred and fifty victims were
cast ashore upon Sankwan Island, and subse-
quently rescued. About the same number of con-
victs, released from jail at Okachi when the wave
broke over the town, returned a few days after to
the Miyagi jail of their own accord.

Work among the dead and dying was heroically
carried on, despite conditions of great discomfort
and even danger to the rescuers. The victims

THE TIDAL WAVE 249

under rains and hot June sun became almost at
once unrecognizable, and owing to the prevalence
of Shinto faith among the relatives of the dead,
cremation could not be resorted to without doing
violence to their feelings and principles.

Among so many tragedies the finding of a fish,
a gold ring in its mouth still encircling a human
finger, was mentioned simply — without comment.
As a relief to the prevailing gloom, an account
was given of a young woman in a hot bath when
the wave reached her, being lifted bodily, tub and
all, and floated to a place of safety.

Without rice, sent by the government at once
and in large quantities, the survivors must have
starved. Terrible bodily injuries, too, resulted in
loss of life, through lack of physicians and nurses
with medicines and instruments.

A small fleet of a hundred and sixty fishermen
were at sea, off a village, the great waves passing
harmlessly beneath ; and they had no knowledge
of the horrors overtaking friends at home until
their return late at night to the awful scene of
death. Another party of fishermen, equally un-
conscious, picked up, with much surprise, a float-
ing child — then to their amazement another —
and two or three more ; at length one of the men
rescued his own little son ; tragedy hovered in
the air.

Through hundreds of miles of devastation,

250 CORONA AND CORONET

corpses covered the beaches, and others were
continually washed ashore.

In Kongo the entire hamlet of one hundred and
fifty houses was obliterated, the sole survivors a
party of men playing go in a temple on a hill,
and eight children, carried by the waters to an
elevated spot and deposited. Later, others were
found, thrown upon the opposite coast.

A passing traveler, putting up at an inn, was
seized by four women in the watery rush, who
clung to him. so desperately that he was powerless
to move. Oddly enough, this proved the salva-
tion of them all, — the combined mass defied the
power of water, and ultimately found itself on dry
land. The survivors, hurt, dazed, half-wild, wan-
dered up and down for days in tattered garments,
like demented ghosts.

Professor Kochibe's theory of the cause of the
calamity is probably the most scholarly of all.
For some distance out from the coast the water is
shallow, but it suddenly drops to a great depth.
The cavity is called Tuscarora Hollow, and is no
less than four thousand fathoms deep. The prob-
ability is that a large piece of this wall, or great
cliff, fell off, detached by a submarine earth-
quake, thus causing the huge rollers. Two deep-
sea cowries found ordinarily at depths of several
hundred fathoms were discovered after the catas-
trophe far up on the shore, at the edge of the
wave-line, one of them but just dead.

THE TIDAL WAVE 251

The first recorded damage by an earthquake
wave is that of May, a. d. 869. On the title-
page of a Japanese almanac in the 9th year
Kenkin (1168 a. d.) is a representation of an
earthquake insect, on its back a map of Japan,
an oblong body covered with scales, ten feet like
a spider, and a dragon's head.

After leaving Oginohama the Tairen - maru
passed a gruesome relic, — a corpse floating by,
bleached beyond possible recognition, but unmis-
takably once a living person. Later in the day
two or three others floated by.

As we passed the lovely coast scenery, finally
reaching Shiriya Light, and Tsugaru Strait, sepa-
rating the main island from Yezo, it was unspeak-
able relief to depart from a region so haunting in
its calamity.

The steamer carried many Japanese passengers,
one of them an officer high in the Imperial Navy,
members of the Board of Education, the editor of
a popular magazine, and several dainty little ladies
who kept mostly to their staterooms. The naval
officer, especially interested in oceanic meteorol-
ogy, was the only Japanese who cared to come to
the European table. He and I with the genial
Scotch captain of the steamer were often the sole
diners, — a slight roughness reducing the number
at once to these three. Captain Kimotsuki spoke
little English, but seemed much impressed that a

252 CORONA AND CORONET

lady could be a good sailor, even that she could
thmk of traveling to Esashi at all. He was him-
self bound thither to witness the eclipse ; but
most of the other passengers would stop at Hako-
date or Otaru.

Much interesting talk — and the Japanese are
often great talkers — went on in the cabin be-
tween the various scientific and literary gentle-
men, upon matters of current importance, and it
was most trying to get only now and then a sug-
gestion of its drift from an occasional familiar
word.

I asked Murakami to give me a few lessons in
reading printed characters. In a day or two, dates
on Japanese newspapers became intelligible ; but
while philosophical and intensely absorbing, it is a
discouraging accomplishment. A lifetime might
be spent in its acquirement.

Read from right to left, the first two characters
stand for Mei-jiy the present era of Japan, which
began with the Revolution of 1868.

HA -h ^ A # :^ + ri§ ^

(August 18, 1896)

Tsugaru Strait was passed, the Yezo shores
loomed in sight ; Hakodate Head rose majesti-
cally above the sea, its base washed by a snow-
white fringe of surf, its mighty cliffs green from
sea to sky, plunging their heads into the softly

THE TIDAL WAVE 253

drifting clouds over twelve hundred feet above.
Hakodate seemed to have wide and fairly clean
streets, the houses built evidently with reference
to more severe winters than prevail in the main
island. Stones, nowhere used for paving, were
chiefly lying on the roofs. A pagoda, a few bar-
ren foreign buildings, and the graceful lines of a
temple roof broke the general monotony.

In the light of a fair northern sunset the Tairen-
maru cast anchor, and was surrounded at once by
the usual fleet of sampans ; and with colors dip-
ping to her from numerous Japanese steamers
lying near, she proceeded to settle herself for a
twenty-four hours' stay in the beautiful harbor.

CHAPTER XXV

IN PURSUIT OF A SHADOW

What shadows we are and what shadows we pursue.

Burke.

Who could watch that superb Hakodate Head
lying close by and not desire to see the wide-
spread view from its summit ! Early dawn found
me well up its side.

The path might have been along some New
England hillside. Red and white clover grew
luxuriantly, humble heal-all and wild geraniums,
spiraea and serpentaria, and hydrangeas, blue
and white. Maidenhair ferns and royal osmunda
flourished side by side with yellow lilies, dear
old cinnamon pinks of traditional grandmothers'
gardens, and fair purple iris. Young oaks shaded
bluebells, homely yarrow sent forth its pungent
odor, and wild sunflowers gleamed at every turn
in the path. A large bush, full of splendid scar-
let berries, was an unfamiliar member of the
elder family.

On a mountain spur the view emerged from
shifting fog in sunny brightness ; just below us
two reservoirs, farther away the bay, with a long,
narrow beach separating it from the ocean, scores

IN PURSUIT OF A SHADOW 255

of vessels at anchor, and the gray town climbing
a short distance up the hillside. Surf was beat-
ing high on the sea side, fog drifting off to south
and east, glints of sunlight turning the water
here and there to silver. Tall cryptomerias,
huge ledges, a fine park and museum, a farm-
house where a pretty Japanese girl dispensed
that rare luxury, rich milk — are all blended in
one memory of Hakodate.

But not an Ainu had appeared.

The Tairen-maru, bound for Otaru on the west
coast of Yezo, finally steamed off, past Shira-
kamisaki Point, and another stage of the journey
was begun.

At Otaru (sandy road) women carry the bur-
dens, and mushroom hats prevail. It is the port
of Sapporo, whence a short line of railroad leads to
the site of the Imperial Agricultural College. An
attempt to reach the province of Kitami over-
land from here would have been seriously diffi-
cult if not practically impossible, the island con-
sisting of roadless mountains, unexplored forests,
and bridgeless rivers. Interesting as such an
unusual trip might have proved, the time would
hardly admit dallying with the unknown after
such a fashion, and my first anxiety in Otaru
was to inquire whether a Yusen Kaisha steamer
might not be ready to make the infrequent trip
along the northwest coast, around Cape Soya,

256 CORONA AND CORONET

and to villages along the northeast shore of
Yezo. First information was disheartening — a
steamer had some time before started for this
remote region and the one now in port was in-
tended for another direction. But it was found
that a little steamer belonging to a local native
line was liable to start for the north in a few
days, if storm or rain or fog or high seas did not
prevent.

And this seemed the only practical way to
reach Esashi in season.

While this somewhat uncertain prospect was
probably producing a thoughtful cast of counte-
nance, as I revolved the possibilities of being
late for the eclipse, a swift messenger arrived
from the Yusen Kaisha office, — bringing the
compliments of the manager, and the intelli-
gence that he had received word from the head
office in Yokohama to detail for me a special
steamer for that far northern voyage. It would
sail within two days, passes would be sent, and
European food provided on board. Meantime
Sapporo could be visited, and perhaps some Ainu
seen ; so my prospect immediately began to
lighten.

Can it really be that Japan is seen from the
windows of the train bound for Sapporo } To be
sure the cliffs and hills on one side and the sea
on the other were beautiful, fishermen's gardens

IN PURSUIT OF A SHADOW 257

held brilliant hollyhocks, and portulaca carpeted
the ground. Marshes had cat -tails, and the
green hills trailing mist over them. A rice-
field or two disputed the landscape with Ameri-
canized fields where haying was in progress.
Solemn crows perched upon gables ; flagpoles
and dead trees all had their brooding black oc-
cupants. Yellow toadflax lined the track, and
evening primroses, large and golden, droopingly
awaited sunset.

But Japan — where had that poetic country
gone t Perhaps only itself under warmer skies,
brisk northern breezes may blow away its most
elusive charm. At all events, Sapporo seemed
the most American city of the Empire — as in-
deed it well might, since the Imperial Agricultu-
ral College was established in 1876, under the
direction, as organizer and president, of the late
Colonel Clark of the Massachusetts Agricultural
College. The model farm with its buildings, and
the whole atmosphere of the place are American,
not Japanese, with an effect practical rather than
picturesque.

Buildings erected in Japan under the title
"foreign" are apt to be bare and barrack-like
structures, quite lacking the architectural grace
which our older towns show, yet having lost the
attractiveness of Japanese houses. Many such
are in Sapporo.

CORONA AND CORONET

Jinrikisha are few, and horses prevail on the
wide unpaved streets, bordered by low buildings
and small streams of running water.

Built for the Imperial Household in foreign
style, but under Japanese management, the Ho-
hei-kwan is a large hotel facing a typical garden
most " restful " to the eyes. The cook is an
artist, the attendants delightful. Here I found
myself already famous from connection with the
expedition.

In the usual native inns pretty maids conduct
male guests to the bath, a custom as old as the
Odyssey; male servants taking charge of the
ablutions of ladies. The same custom prevailed
at the Hohei-kwan, an amiable old man escort-
ing me to the bathing apartment with much
simplicity ; he saw that the tub or tank was filled
with actually boiling water, showed all the ar-
rangements for comfort and convenience, and
only stopped short of offering to take my kimono
while I stepped in. That experience was re-
served for the Etchuya Inn at Otaru.

Professor Nitobe and Professor Miyabe of the
College, both of whom were educated in Amer-
ica, called at once, and through their kindness
many interesting places were intelligently seen,
among them the Museum, full of Yezo material,
and — as everywhere throughout the Empire —
triumphant mementos of the Chinese war.

IN PURSUIT OF A SHADOW 259

The mysterious Ainu nation is exciting much
attention in Japanese ethnological circles, and
utensils, ornaments, and clothing are now being
properly collected, preserved, and classified.

I, too, began to gather similar articles for
Professor Morse of Salem, who had asked me to
collect them for the Peabody Museum. He had
hoped that I might obtain a primitive loom, bows
and arrows, elm-fibre garments, musical instru-
ments, and other Ainu articles.

Through Professor Nitobe's skill and courtesy
I was enabled to purchase a number of rare
relics, which induced great elevation of spirits,
since Professor Morse had mentioned casually
when asking me to collect Ainu material, that
they especially dislike parting with their posses-
sions, and some articles would be almost impos-
sible to obtain. Here, however, I already had
the nucleus of a fair collection, although I relied
chiefly for the best additions upon the Kitami
Ainu, where a foreigner would be a novelty.

Professor Miyabe, one of Japan's finest bota-
nists, cleared up my doubts upon various shrubs
and flowers, puzzling in their differences from
and resemblances to American species ; and al-
together the time in Sapporo was far too short.

An event in one's lifetime is the first sight of
an Ainu. A " civilized " specimen soon crossed
my path, the most extraordinary figure in my ex-

26o CORONA AND CORONET

perience. With his wild head of electrified black
hair parted in the middle and standing out under
a round-crowned and very dingy Derby, huge
hoops of brass or German silver in his ears, his
face largely hidden by an enormous beard and
mustache, a white cotton kimono and cowhide
boots, this anomalous relic of a vanishing nation
was infinitely more pathetic than his veriest sav-
age kinsman. His son, evidently a cross between
Ainu and Japanese, — a peculiarly barbarous
combination, — wore regular schoolboy "gear."
Speaking in pure Ainu to his son, who answered
in a sort of mixed dialect, the father was a mel-
ancholy and out-of-place specimen.

Sad it is to see a whole race disappear, — over-
powered peacefully and half-unconsciously by a
stronger nation of brighter intellect ; but this is
inevitable in the world's progress.

Bearskins in Sapporo were tempting, thick
brown and golden yellow ; but the hunters have
to go farther for them now than a few years ago
— more deeply into the northern forest.

In Sapporo, too, it was that I had a sudden
awakening as to using my native tongue. As
a little shop was passed, at whose open sides
hung pretty Japanese brushes of many dainty
kinds, I remembered my hearths and open fire-
places in remote Massachusetts, and exclaiming :
*'0h, those brushes are dear! I must have

IN PURSUIT OF A SHADOW 261

one or two," approached the smiling and bowing
shopman.

" Oh, no," said Murakami, gravely following,
** You will not find them dear. They are very
inexpensive ! " — which was indeed the case.
But the unintentional lesson was no less pun-
gent.

A delightful Philadelphia gentleman of the old
school, and his daughter, were at the Ho-hei-
kwan for the summer, having lived for several
winters in Tokyo. An invitation to their table,
with many other kindnesses, made the hours
homelike and gracious.

On the train returning to Otaru, Murakami-
san gave another mild shock to his companion,
with his superior use of English, at all times a
model. Wishing to test my own impressions of
the reason, I asked him why all the carefully
built fences at the stations were invariably
burned — pickets, posts, all charred some dis-
tance up from the ground. His reply was char-
acteristic : —

"Carbon is not soluble in water," he said
quietly, without farther explanation. But it was
sufficient.

The Etchuya Inn is a fascinating little hostelry,
its maids dainty, its native food of the best, its
attendants more than attentive, its " head stew-
ard " unremitting in politeness. To be sure its

262 CORONA AND CORONET

bath-water was red-hot, — actually bubbling ; the
screens surrounding the tank had a row of glass
panes in the middle, and screens have no locks.
But its hand basins were of artistic, shining
brass with decorative characters in the bottom,
its tiny brass mouth bowls unique ; and a long,
polished corridor where water was superficially
used by all the guests in common, opened to a
green and blossoming garden court.

Chasing an eclipse, and then chasing an eclipse
expedition, I deemed it appropriate to travel in
a distinctly native way ; so everything not abso-
lutely necessary had been left on the Coronet,
and my few belongings were packed in the pretty
baskets, or kori. I had added, also, on the way,
one or two white trunks of native manufacture ;
and from the Etchuya Inn, while seated of
course on the floor, my letters were written upon
long strips of Japanese paper with a camel's-hair
brush and native ink. One epistle to America
measured two yards and a half.

Meals, too, were served by smiling maids
upon their knees, the fire-pot constantly replen-
ished with glowing coals of charcoal, o cha (hot
tea) always ready, and at night with the floor for
bed, beneath Japanese green mosquito netting,
I slept the sleep of Nippon, occasionally partly
aroused by the pattering feet of mice or " twenty
days' rats," as the Japanese call them. Lessons,

IN PURSUIT OF A SHADOW 263

too, were given me in correct trying of the obi,
and old treasures of lacquer shown, among them
the toilet set of a court lady of generations ago.
All the men and maids gathered with the
chief steward at the entrance, giving farewell
bows and fans, as we departed for the Kwanko-
maru. Murakami was silent, but apparently
happy.

CHAPTER XXVI

STILL PURSUING

Shadow owes Its birth to light.

Gay.

When at creation a certain god and goddess
were selected to evolve the island of Yezo from
chaos, they were endowed equally with materials
and ability to complete the task.

To the god were allotted the eastern and south-
ern parts of the island, while the goddess was
to attend to the western portion. They began
together, vying amiably during the progress of
their work. But alas, after the manner of women,
the goddess one day met a female friend and
stopped to chat with her. This friend, sister of
Aioina Kamui (one of the most ancient forefa-
thers, indeed the Adam of the Ainu race), must
have been a seductive conversationist, for the two
talked long and idly about acquaintances and
neighbors, while the god at the east kept steadily
at work, ever the custom of men. Looking up
suddenly and seeing how nearly completed his
portion was, and frightened at the state of her
own unfinished regions, the goddess hastily threw

STILL PURSUING 265

together her remaining materials in a careless and
slovenly manner, leaving this western coast in its
present rugged and dangerous condition. But,
add the Ainu in telling this legend, no one, even
if disposed to grumble at the dangers of these
shores, should presume to blame the Creator for
such a state of things, as it is wholly the fault of
his deputy and her tendency to gossip ; and their
lords often point the moral at women who talk
too much, — " Set a watch over your lips and
attend to your duties, for see how rough the west
coast of Yezo is, and that all because of a chat-
tering goddess."

The chattering, nevertheless, may be held re-
sponsible for a picturesque bit of work. Steep
cliffs, often richly wooded with ancient trees,
sometimes rise in bare and rocky impressiveness
many hundred feet above the sea. Innumerable
streams rush in white torrents down these ma-
jestic heights, using every ravine for their swift
descent until the whole face of the coast appears
laced with flying spray of continual cascades.
Tiny fishing villages find precarious foothold at
the base of cliffs entirely inaccessible, on beaches
almost too narrow for the single row of thatched
dwellings, even huddled against the steep rock
behind ; while constant surf, beating white and
high before them, seems to make a village high-
way by the sea equally improbable.

266 CORONA AND CORONET

Leaving Otaru seemed also leaving all fog and
cloud. The Sea of Japan stretched clear and gray
to the horizon, where a narrow strip of greenish-
blue sky showed beneath horizontal lines of cloud.
Fleets of fishing-boats lay in the offing, and to-
ward the north hopeful sunshine, with an autum-
nal suggestion in its quiet beauty.

At Mashika a landing was made in late after-
noon. Only a fishing village, it had lately grown
to over five hundred houses and nearly three
thousand inhabitants, such promise of financial
prosperity follows in the herring's train. Ma-
shika's " fire tower " was quite imposing, — a tall
ladder rising high above the roofs, with a bell at
the top, suggesting observation and alarm.

An official of the Yusen Kaisha came on board
with a polite invitation to visit the town; and
after a call at his house, with its beautiful in-
closed garden where he made scientific tea, an
opportunity was afforded for seeing a compara-
tively new Japanese colony. No foreign woman
had ever been in the town before, and a tour of
investigation about the streets and to the tem-
ple aroused an almost startling degree of interest
in the younger inhabitants. The procession be-
came more imposing in numbers at every corner.
Hoping to escape from our following, we decided
to visit an Ainu house, and, turning quietly off
the main thoroughfare, as twilight was coming

STILL PURSUING 2(fj

on, passed a rushing stream and took a footpath
through deep bushes to the dwelHng. But not
so easily were the young people deprived of their
foreign amusement, and every individual followed.
Jumping the stream with alacrity, chasing single
file through the narrow pathway, and actually
arriving before us, they made a dense circle
around ; while the old Ainu, gray-haired and ven-
erable, came out politely to speak to his singular
guest. I counted sixty in the group, not includ-
ing stragglers on the outskirts. An old woman
was washing a big dish in the stream, — a piece
of cleanliness learned with difficulty from the
Japanese, since Ainu, away from civilized neigh-
bors, wash neither themselves nor their clothes,
nor utensils.

The old man spoke fairly good Japanese, and
his story was a sad one, — told to his unusual and
unexpected callers with a modest dignity. His
father, so the tale ran, once lived in a very fine
house, almost a palace to an Ainu, but it was
burned, and his own as well, with all his treasures,
so that now he was forced to live in the poor one
where we found him. His oldest son had broken
his leg, and all the father's money went to the
Japanese hospital, while now his own eyesight
was nearly gone — truly a pitiable plight for an
old, white-haired Ainu.

When sunset had faded, and the landing or

268 CORONA AND CORONET

hatoba was reached, — so near nightfall that the
body-guard had considerably diminished, — this
old Ainu was found waiting by the boat. Bowing
low, he expressed in very good Japanese his sense
of the honor done him by our call, and his grati-
tude and appreciation that so much trouble should
have been taken by one coming from so far.

The men of the Ainu race are much better in
appearance than the women, immense heads of
bushy hair parted in the middle, and great beards
imparting an impressiveness far from unpleasant.
The women appear stolid and indifferent.

Our sampan lay in the surf, and a single plank,
dancing up and down on the waves, connected
it with the shore. A few lanterns gleamed here
and there as coolies ran about, and bidding the
old Ainu sayonara, the sampan pushed off on
the dark water to the brightly lighted Kwanko-
maru lying at anchor outside.

A most beautiful feature of the voyage to Soya,
northwestern cape of the island, is the all-day
view of Rishiri, a small island to the west, con-
sisting of a single mountain. Somewhat over
five thousand feet in height, its figure resembles
Fuji, though the cone is not quite so regular nor
the summit so sharply truncate. Ravines full of
snow extended downward from the top, across
which a filmy white cloud occasionally trailed
itself slowly.

A TYPICAL AINU

STILL PURSUING 269

Primitive fishing villages lay along the shore,
with many new houses of wood showing as yet no
weather stain. Only lately have Japanese begun
to colonize these far-away possessions of the
Emperor. But they must have been excellent
housewives at Onivake, for on numberless roofs
\2cy futon (Japanese bedding) exposed to the fresh
morning sunlight. An occasional temple showed
its fine roof lines ; multitudes of bright flags,
each announcing the name or occupation of the
dweller below, lent gayety to this little town, lying
against a dark background of cedar and spruce
forest. The industry, other than omnipresent
fishing, is collecting edible seaweed, which is
dried and sent all over Japan, even to China.

At Oshidomari, while the steamer officials
transacted necessary business on shore, we lay at
the foot of a high green cliff crowned by a white
light-house.

Nine miles north of Rishiri is a still smaller
island, Reibunshiri, and more villages. Washed
by three remote northern waters, — the Sea of
Japan, the Gulf of Tartary, and La Perouse Strait
opening into the sea of Okhotsk, — the climate
in winter is intensely cold, and the sea so rough
that no steamers attempt an approach. Even in
spring landing is prevented by thickly-spread fish-
ing nets all over the bays, often far into the road-
stead. One little town, Kabuka, is so exposed

270 CORONA AND CORONET

that even on the quiet day when the Kwanko-
maru came near, so tumultuous was the surf that
a large sampan heaped high with shining sea-
weed, collected for hours in favorable localities and
now being brought to land, was overturned some
distance out and all its yards of kelp treasures
scattered once more into their native element.
Instantly a dozen men leaped into the surf and
rescued most of it.

A big boat sent out to us from the steamer
agency was propelled by eight men in various
stages of queer clothes and mahogany skin ; one
man elaborately arrayed in three separate short
kimono^ but with brown extremities exposed to
chill wind and sea. After the manner of coolies,
they sang at their labor, and I have written the
notes of Kabuka's refrain. But voices are sel-
dom in exact unison, and an untranscribable vocal
quality makes it impossible to convey a real idea
of these constantly reiterated strains : —

Moderato.

P^iS^^^

Japanese melodies are not easily reproduced
with European instruments or voices or notation.
While these are generally minor, I observed that
Ainu at their work sang with entirely different
musical characteristics; in major keys and with

STILL PURSUING 271

excellent rhythm, their airs were melodious to
foreign ears.

In these cold regions Japanese seem hardly
like themselves. Palms and bamboo belong to
the national expression. But a scarlet sun was
setting in a gray sea as we entered La Perouse
Strait ; and far in the north loomed low the
shores of SaghaUen, now a Russian penal island
settlement, but formerly owned by Japan. Wak-
kanai, just below Cape Soya, was now our next
anchorage, and by sunrise — Esashl

CHAPTER XXVII

ESASHI IN KITAMI

I traveled among unknown men
In lands beyond the sea —

Wordsworth, England.

Child of the Sun ! to thee 't is given
To guard the banner of the free.

Drake, The A merican Flag.

Bears, barbarous Ainu, the Imperial Agricul-
tural College at Sapporo, and the fine harbor of
Hakodate, where men-of-war of various national-
ities are apt to take refuge from the summer
heats of Yokohama, — these are all that average
travelers in the Mikado's Empire connect with
the great northern island, Yezo.

Containing nearly thirty-seven thousand square
miles, practically all forest, the number of its
trees is estimated at one hundred and twenty-
nine million, — evergreens in abundance, and
oaks, elms, walnuts, birches, maples, and other
familiar northern species, the handsome ash, and
a tangle of interlacing vines.

In 1877, Mr. Benjamin Smith Lyman made
the first attempt at a geological survey of the
island, and many interesting facts were brought

ESASHI IN KITAMJ 272

to light. There are several volcanoes and sul-
phur mines, also there is much coal ; but speak-
ing broadly, the Hokkaido is an unknown region,
— one of the few places yet remaining where
primitive nature and human nature may still be
found, as rude aborigines pursue their unmo-
lested way, and where many hundred miles of
trackless forest yet await the first step of outer
civilization. Nothing less, certainly, than an
eclipse could have attracted to its remote wilder-
ness at once scientific men from England and
France and America, or even from the classic
shades of the Imperial University at Tokyo.

In the brilliant morning sunshine the Kwanko-
maru pursued her tour of investigation along
Yezo's northern coast in search of Esashi. The
handsome young Japanese who commanded the
steamer had never been there before, and the
sombre evergreens, silent mountains, and gray-
roofed villages on the shore afforded no distinc-
tive landmark.

I stood on deck with Captain Kimotsuki look-
ing at the monotonous stretch of country through
a field glass, when suddenly my heart began to
beat with singular rapidity, quick tears sprang,
while for a moment a certain huskiness of voice
prevented my telling him, and Murakami - san,
calmly gazing shoreward, that I had just made
out the stars and stripes, fluttering for the first

274 CORONA AND CORONET

time in breezes blowing straight across to Yezo
from Saghalien, over the lashing waves of the
Sea of Okhotsk. It does not always take war
for patriotism to grow with great and unantici-
pated strides.

If farther confirmation of the proximity of
Esashi were needed there it was off the port bow,
and about two miles away, — the huge black
cruiser L' Alger, which had brought Professor
Deslandres from Yokohama, now awaiting the
completion of his eclipse observations to return
him in safety to that port.

Hardly less homelike than the American sym-
bol was the familiar French flag with its three
starless stripes ; the long journey from Inland
Sea to Okhotsk Sea was happily accomplished, —
the welcome might fairly be described as enthu-
siastic.

Esashi air, evidently out of the region of heavy
fog, was far clearer than in southern Hokkaido,
and every prospect was cheerful, since even the
prevailing earthquakes almost omit western and
northern Yezo in their constant visits to the Em-
pire otherwhere.

From July loth until August 5th there were ten
perfectly clear afternoons and four only partially
shaded. The Hokkaido, in its northern por-
tions, offers a better chance for cloudless skies
than the main island, but along its southern

ESASHI IN KITAMI 275

coast fogs prevail almost constantly. Reference
has been made before to the excellent pamphlet
issued by the Central Meteorological Observa-
tory, giving the observations at this season for
three years past at all available eclipse locations.
From a careful summing up of all results, Esa-
shi was selected, not only by our own and the
French mission, but by that sent out from the
University at Tokyo. The Lick Observatory
party and the English expedition chose Akke-
shi, on the southeastern coast, as their location.
There were thus five fully equipped expeditions
in the Hokkaido, awaiting the moon's shadow to
reveal truths and glories hitherto unknown.

Friendliness at headquarters had brought tel-
egrams from the Central Government to the
governor of Hokkaido, and from him to the local
authorities, placing practically the entire re-
sources of the region at our disposal, — guards
and interpreters, a telegraph operator who under-
stood English, a recently vacated schoolhouse as
headquarters, a tract of land adjoining for our
instruments and portable house, and every intel-
ligent Japanese resident as willing assistant so
far as possible.

The mayor's wife, a tiny lady with blackened
teeth, sent vases and flowers to decorate the
dining-room ; the editor of a Sapporo paper (in
Esashi to report the eclipse) brought gifts of

276 CORONA AND CORONET

petrified shells and geological curiosities — all
did something. Occasionally there was a me-
chanical drawback — as when the Astronomer
negotiated for some urgent iron work, and finally
received the smith's compliments, with further
information that he could probably complete one
hinge and a half each day.

Professor Terao, in charge of the Tokyo mis-
sion, the official party of the Japanese govern-
ment, established his camp about half a mile south
of the little town and back a short distance from
the beach. He was well prepared to accomplish
excellent photographic work, among his instru-
ments being an especially fine photographic
doublet of eight inches aperture, by the well-
known optician Brashear of Allegheny. It was
constructed for this eclipse, and arrived only a
few days before, having been delayed by diffi-
culty in obtaining from Germany the finest
quality of new glass needed for the lenses.

The French party was established near the
western end of the town, in a large open square
of land, where various tents and houses, brick
piers and large instruments, made almost a little
village in themselves. The outfit was very elab-
orate, and was intended quite exclusively for
work in spectroscopy, the specialty of this cele-
brated astronomical physicist, who has added to
the fame of the already famous Paris Observa-

ESASHI IN KITAMI 277

tory by his successful and brilliant work in phy-
sical research in photographing the solar promi-
nences without an eclipse and by his discovery
already mentioned of the rotation of the corona
with the sun at the Senegal eclipse of April i6th,
1893. Assisting Professor Deslandres were not
only the gentlemen before named as having
come with him from Paris, but very valuable
cooperation was given by officers of L' Alger, —
Captain Boutet, commanding. Captain Le Bouleur
de Courlon (who had charge of the six-inch tele-
scope, and also of observing the four contacts),
Captain Hurbin and Midshipman Dumas, in
charge of the photometers and thermo-electric
instruments. These gentlemen were assisted by
a detachment of sailors from the Alger, and their
presence quite revolutionized life in the quiet
little town. The outfit of M. Deslandres was
probably the most elaborate and complete bat-
tery of spectroscopic instruments ever brought
to bear on an eclipse by any single expedition.
Also appliances were not omitted for pictorial
photography of the corona.

Preparations of the Amherst expedition have
already been alluded to, with automatic arrange-
ments whereby electricity is made to do the
work of many observers, thus extending many
fold the precious two or three minutes of totality,
rich with tantalizing stores of coronal wealth.

278 CORONA AND CORONET

Fastened upon one great central axis, made to
follow the sun by the glycerine clock, were the
Lyman twelve-inch reflector from the Amherst
Observatory, the Draper fifteen-inch reflector
from Harvard, an Edgecomb eight-and-one-half-
inch reflector, numerous object glasses by Alvan
Clark & Sons, the largest of which were a ten-
inch lens lent by Harvard and one of seven and
a quarter by Amherst, a six-inch objective made
by Schroeder of Hamburg, and a great variety of
photographic doublets by the Gundlach Optical
Company, and .Bausch and Lomb of Rochester ;
and a fine lens by Goerz of Berlin. In addi-
tion were polariscopes arranged and lent by Dr.
Wright of the Sloane Laboratory of Yale Uni-
versity, two spectroscopes from Harvard Obser-
vatory and the Massachusetts Institute of Tech-
nology, and a wheel photometer for measuring
variations of intensity in the total light of the
corona.

All this apparatus was individually connected
with the electric commutator (invented by Pro-
fessor Todd and made by Mr. Thompson for this
eclipse), a slowly revolving copper cylinder full of
pins each of which represented a certain move-
ment of one particular instrument at a given
fraction of a second. Each pin in the barrel
had an engraved number adjacent, indicating the
precise second of totality when it passed beneath

UJU'i

THE ELECTRIC COMMUTATOR

ESASHI IN KITAMI 279

the circuit comb ; and as ninety thousand posi-
tions of pins are possible, obviously a catalogue
of each motion, the time it takes place, and the
instrument to which it belongs, became a neces-
sity.

This the Astronomer had made at sea on the
way to Japan, with details of execution com-
pletely worked out, so that the whole apparatus,
with an almost human intelligence, might exe-
cute its programme flawlessly.

The whole thing, most complicated to invent
in all its practical working, but absolutely simple
in manipulation, was set up and adjusted in time,
and its working was perfect; at a touch of the
electric key, plates came into place, were ex-
posed, covered, and passed out, and new ones
brought up for exposure, — all with the preci-
sion of a machine. Thus was demonstrated the
practicability of applying an unlimited amount
of apparatus, automatically, to the various and
fertile problems of eclipse research. It is pos-
sible, with the arrangement now perfected, to
take between four and five hundred pictures of
the corona in two minutes and a half ; and that
without having to depend upon fluctuations in
the nervous systems of a crowd of observers,
many of whom (it is to be hoped in justice to
their sense of the sublime in nature) might fre-
quently be so affected by the spectacular part

28o CORONA AND CORONET

of an eclipse that routine work would suffer.
Tests were constantly made, and everything
progressed rapidly.

A more nearly ideal headquarters than the
old schoolhouse could hardly be imagined for a
practical astronomer. The long main room was
made a sort of workshop for the completion and
putting together of apparatus. Down one step
another larger space was turned by screens and
hangings into a series of small sleeping apart-
ments for the various members of the expedi-
tion; while dining-room, kitchen, apartment for
cook and assistants, a large office for the Pro-
fessor in one corner of which our sleeping
arrangements were shut off by a tall folding
screen, — all were under the same generous roof.
It was luxurious camping out. True, when Pro-
fessor Deslandres or Commander Boutet called
they had sometimes to be received in the dining-
room, their refined faces projected against a
background of shadows where hams and bacon
hung dimly from rafters in the commissary de-
partment ; but that was only a part of the general
unusualness of the experience.

Directly opposite were telegraph and post-
offices, — the former swift and reliable, the latter
sure, but dependent upon packhorses to and
from Wakkanai, or visits of occasional steamers.

Outside a long sliding window of the old

ESASHI IN KITAMI 281

schoolhouse, with its protecting bars of wood, an
interested circle gathered as soon as the new
arrival had seated herself beside it, at the Pro-
fessor's study table. Children and young girls,
mothers with babies on their backs, even bent
old grandmothers, collected to glimpse this
strange sight. But no child was too small or of
too low a class to drop a tiny curtsey when it
came, with an amiable ohayo (good morning), and
when harmless curiosity was gratified the same
little figure made another quaint bow politely
bidding adieu in familiar sayonara. When the
gaze of every looker-on was accompanied with
such well-bred manners, who could complain at
being a centre of attraction .^

Across the street at one of the little houses
fish could be bought at certain early morning
hours. Family life went on innocently in full
view, and very amusing were the ante-breakfast
attempts of French sailors to purchase, by a
curious jargon of French and Japanese, with
even an English word now and then.

But when prices or lack of mutual understand-
ing roused their ire the resultant linguistic babel
became too laughable.

One might have seen much of the village life
from that sliding window alone. Women did
their washing in the street, entertaining one
another meanwhile by continual conversation.

282 CORONA AND CORONET

Diagonally opposite was an artistic lamp-post,
belonging to a neat and airy native tea-house,
where pretty girls sat in the veranda, guests came
and went, and rows of bright lanterns swung
every evening.

The village population is composed largely of
colonists from the south, attracted to these re-
mote shores by herring and salmon fishing. For
less than ten years has the little hamlet been
really established ; the Japanese are not fond of
colonizing new regions, and only the money so
easily made in spring and autumn would have
lured them from their natural habitat. At those
seasons the number of dwellers in Esashi rises
from seventeen hundred to nearly four thou-
sand.

The master fishermen become quite wealthy,
employing from thirty to fifty men, some of
whom are Ainu, in the actual labor of setting nets
and bringing in the spoil. They have, too, much
variety in their lives, often living at Hakodate in
the winter, and taking frequent business journeys
to Tokyo. Their children attend good schools,
often colleges, and their houses are full of beauty
and tasteful arrangement. As the potential
wealth of the Hokkaido becomes more widely
appreciated, probably it will not long be left to
merely primeval loneliness. All these colonists,
while distinctively Japanese, yet live in sufficient

ESASHI IN KITAMI

harmony with the Ainu, whose primitive villages
are near by in all directions.

StrolHng pilgrim-beggars in dingy white soli-
cited alms with much unmelodious music, — there
were attempts at matsuri where in place of the
gorgeous floats of Kyoto were devotees, not rid-
ing in elegance, but walking amid artificial
cherry blossoms in little floorless inclosures
under canopies simulating rolling cars, — a pa-
thetic deception deceiving nobody ; and more
secular festivals occurred, booths were erected,
plays performed, and female wrestlers contended.

My first walk abroad as the first foreign wo-
man visitor in Esashi was a memorable occasion
— to both entertainer and entertained. Chief
escorted me through the principal thoroughfares,
followed by an imposing procession whom in-
tense wonder kept absolutely speechless. But at
last one ecstatic small boy in dark blue kimono
tucked up to allow freedom of limb motion re-
covered breath sufficiently, while marching close
beside the principal performer, to produce a tin
trumpet, upon which he blew vociferously, attract-
ing the attention of all beholders. This body-
guard augmented at every corner, and the whole
thing partook of the nature of a triumphal pro-
gression. Most of the followers were Japanese,
but a few Ainu haunted the outskirts of the
throng, with stately tread and lofty expression.

284 CORONA AND CORONET

apparently looking for nothing unusual, and giv-
ing no evidence of curiosity, yet never failing to
see every foreign figure within range. Humbly
accompanying their lords, women and children
followed, — far less imposing than the men.
Larger and apparently stronger than the Japan-
ese, although not taller, the older men are actu-
ally patriarchal, with their long beards, and
masses of thick hair parted in the middle, while
on many faces the expression is as benign and
lofty as that of a pictured apostle. Part of the
walk that evening was over the pathway of clean
sand spread for the Emperor's portrait. In these
far and simple villages the old-time, acute rever-
ence for everything pertaining to royalty is de-
lightfully and solemnly preserved.

But Esashi is not really picturesque, — the
wreck of a native steamer cast up on the beach
by storms of the previous November, with the
rough tent near by where its supposed watch-
ers lived a more than primitive life, verged on
the picturesque ; but the Ishikawa-maru was not
sufficiently beaten in pieces to typify that quality
dear to artists.

Perhaps, after all, it was most nearly ap-
proached by a small Shinto temple close to the
shore, with a neatly kept graveled courtyard
and two handsome torii^ one of fine granite.
The ministering priest, an odd-looking Japan-

ESASHI IN KITAMI 285

ese with a sparse beard and an indifferent expres-
sion, spent an uneventful existence largely in
watering handsome plants growing in vases and
jars around the temple.

In the same inclosure, rising abruptly from
the rocks of the shore, perhaps fifty feet high,
stood a little lighthouse in which every night a
student lamp burned dutifully. A narrow plat-
form around the summit, reached by an open
outside ladder, was the point from which I
should draw the long, filmy streamers of the
outer corona during the precious two minutes
and forty seconds of totality on August ninth.

One important project was necessarily aban-
doned. No auxiliary stations could be estab-
lished, as planned, upon some distant range of
hills. The whole region was simply impassable ;
thick, impenetrable forests clothed every height,
while scrub bamboo six or eight feet high cov-
ered all the open country. Footpaths through
it from one village to another never left the
shore for any distance, and no telescopes could
be transported inland. There were no jinrik-
isha, or roads, or carriages, or kago, or side-
saddles, but plenty of horses ; and many a mile
of Kitami sands has felt the galloping feet of my
rough little Yezo horse, as I traversed the coun-
try far and near, while the astronomers were ad-
justing apparatus, and testing plates and object
glasses.

286 CORONA AND CORONET

On one morning ride a small colt started with
us, its mother ridden by a member of the com-
pany ; but after a mile or two of racing it
thought better of the trip, and returned to graze
on the breezy upland moor. Coming home about
twilight after a day with the Ainu, the sweetly
plaintive cry of sandpipers in flocks along the
beach rose familiarly as we rode at a great pace
on the narrow margin of sand above high tide ;
and a sort of lonely quail, almost a whippoorwill
note, came to us out of the woods. Through
the fast-falling darkness we sped away, up the
bluff, spattering through the deep mud of Esa-
shi street, followed by the wild, welcoming cries
of the little colt we had left behind.

Hokkaido horses themselves deserve a sepa-
rate word. They seem to possess an abundance
of good qualities which their appearance would
scarcely justify our anticipating. Ordinarily they
use two gaits, a short, quick trot — rather an in-
discriminate sort of scramble — and a smooth
gallop, rapid and comfortable. Both Ainu and
Japanese are fearless and skillful riders through
the narrow paths among the tall undergrowth.
Largely of scrub bamboo, as already mentioned,
there are acres here and there superb with wild
roses, their foliage richly green like the Cher-
okee rose ; tall spikes of burnt weed {Epilo-
biiim) raised familiar torches ; one or two rare

ESASHI IN KITAMI 287

orchids were seen ; and graceful clusters of
purple nightshade were now and again turning
into green and yellow and crimson berries.
White chamomile, irresistibly suggesting dusty
roadsides in New England, grew as large and
high as marguerites, while " butter and eggs "
carpeted the ground, growing flat against the
sandy soil, well down to its tryst with the creep-
ing surf.

A few deciduous trees appeared among the
evergreens, their autumn coloring reported as very
brilliant.

Horse-flies of scintillating green, over an inch
long but not aggressive, were noticeable residents
of the village, — overrun also by crows, thou-
sands perching on every gable and ridgepole,
and filling the air with flaps of dusky wings and
occasional impious remarks. Hawthorne was
discriminating when he asserted that crows can
have no real pretension to religion, in spite of
sober mien and black attire, because they are
certainly thieves and probably infidels. But in
Yezo they are safe from molestation and propor-
tionally saucy.

An Ainu legend relates that in time long ago,
the evil one was contending with God, frustrat-
ing his designs wherever possible. Seeing that
men, his especial creation, could not live with-
out the life-giving warmth and light of the sun,

288 CORONA AND CORONET

he determined to get up long before sunrise, and
swallow the " lord of day " so soon as he should
appear. But God sent a crow to circumvent him.
When the sun was rising, the evil one opened
his mouth, but a crow flew down his throat in-
stead, thus saving the great luminary. Men
therefore should ever be grateful to crows ; and
crows know it, indulging themselves in conse-
quence. They feel no terror of a scarecrow,
flocking near in great numbers, and even perch
lovingly on its shoulder.

The morning evolutions of six crows and a
black cat were worthy an eloquent description.
Three on each side of her, they attacked singly
and on alternate sides, her nearest neighbor
pecking savagely and flying away to the end of
the row when she retaliated ; while the next
moved up and continued the sport as soon as the
cat had turned upon and vanquished the nearest
crow on the opposite side. That particular pussy
must have been puzzled to understand why,
always worsted and driven away, the number of
her enemies remained on either side unchanged.
This cat for some reason had a tail, — unlike the
proper Japanese species.

Early dawn, just after sunrise, and when far-
ther naps had been effectually banished by the
awkward two-steps of these favored crows upon
our shingle roof, was the favorite time for offi-

ESASHI IN KITAMI 289

cial calls. A knock was followed by the en-
trance of our interpreter, Mr. Oshima, an able
student sent from Sapporo by the governor ;
and following him were one and another — mem-
bers of the Board of Education, or government
officials, or local magnates.

With morning coffee on our part, and gifts of
interesting fossils and jasper of the region on
theirs, these occasions were mutually gratifying.
Fortunately a Japanese kimono was quite full
dress, which simplified matters from toilet stand-
points.

We received these gentlemen in the Profes-
sor's office or headquarters, around whose walls
on very convenient shelves he had arranged for
safety until needed numberless eyepieces, lenses,
electrical appliances, a few books, object-glasses
in shining brass holders, levels, transit lamps,
photographic plates, — everything one could im-
agine needful for an astronomical expedition.

During one of these impromptu ante-breakfast
receptions at five in the morning, the mayor of
the town, glancing round our apartment, gave
utterance to a long and elaborate speech, — duly
accompanied by low bows and friendly smiles, —
evidently the daintiest of oriental compliments.
In effect it was that in these shelves the chil-
dren of the school had been wont to keep their
shoes in former days ; and that he hoped a sort

290 CORONA AND CORONET

of reflex action from the wonderful objects now
filling the same^ spaces might extend to every
child whose straw or wooden clogs had once
occupied them, imparting to each something of
the devoted scientific spirit now animating the
*' famous men" who had come so far to see a
sublime celestial spectacle.

A leading citizen of Esashi, Mr. Hiroya, had
an airy house facing the sea, which every night
was gayly illuminated by hundreds of paper lan-
terns swinging in rows and loops along the front,
and he invited us to an elaborate dinner the
evening after my arrival. His pretty little bride
sat slightly apart, exquisitely dressed in gray
silk with an obi of richest brocade, smiling and
looking like a picture against the background
of fine kakemono^ handsome hibachiy and bronze
vases.

Japanese cooking shows many grades, and on
this particular evening everything was deliciously
cooked and entirely palatable to foreign taste.
Possibly, however, I should except one delicacy
in the shape of a black shell-fish, a sea cucum-
ber perhaps, which the other guests seemed to
take with avidity. Captain Kimotsuki, Professor
Terao, our official interpreter Oshima-san, and a
number of others were present, among them a
gentleman formerly governor of a northern pro-
vince, containing many Ainu villages. He en-

AINU ABOUT TO DRINK SAKE

ESASHI IN KITAMI 291

tertained us by clever imitations of certain Ainu
habits in eating, drinking, and holding inter-
course with guests. He not only speaks their
isolated language, but is personally acquainted
with every individual of that nation in the vicin-
ity ; and as he kindly volunteered to take me
to all the houses within riding distance, here was
a solution of the vexed question of personal ap-
proach to these shy people, — perhaps also a
solution of Professor Morse's problem, the col-
lection of Ainu relics. When our kindly host,
and his servants with lanterns, conducted us
back to the schoolhouse camp, visions of eclipses
and Ainu, telescopes and weaving outfits, horse-
back rides and treasure boxes mingled in new
association invitingly in the future, and to the
rhythmic beat of the surf dreams continued the
picture.

CHAPTER XXVIII

IN AINU LAND
With grave faces turned toward oblivion.

Special steamers and men-of-war on the sea,
and cheerful eclipse camps on shore, brought a
surprising summer to the northern coast of Yezo,
and the innocent Ainu will probably date future
history from this peaceful invasion of foreigners.
It is a happy thing that some spots are still left
on this fair earth where modern enterprise and
cosmopolitan life can still afford astonishment.

Among the books so constantly written upon
Japan in all aspects, numbering not far from a
thousand, little in proportion has been put forth
in English relating to the Ainu.

Ethnologists in the Orient are largely divided
as to whether the aborigines of Japan should be
called Ainu or Aino, and there are strong reasons
in favor of each form, both of which are used by
different Japanese authorities. Upon inquiring
of several prominent chiefs of the nation as to
how they called themselves, and which name they
preferred, the answer was " Ainu " invariably, with
distinct emphasis.

IN AINU LAND 293

The people of this race would naturally be
described as "hairy," even their limbs and bodies
being often quite thickly covered, yet some ac-
counts of this characteristic have been exagger-
ated ; and the number of hairs on a square inch
of an Ainu's head is said not to exceed that upon
an equal surface of a European's. The illustra-
tions show them as not unlike the bearded peas-
ants of Russia; certain ethnologists hold that
they are probably members of some branch of
the Aryan family, others that they are akin to
the Eskimo.

Gentle, and subservient to the conquering Jap-
anese, it is evident that the Ainu formerly held
more egotistic views than now, even fancying
themselves the centre of the universe, as shown
perhaps by an old national song : " Gods of the
sea, open your eyes divine. Wherever your eyes
turn, there echoes the sound of the Ainu speech."

Learned discussion is still in progress among
Japanese scholars as to a probable Koro-pok-gurUy
or race of dwarf pit - dwellers, " people of the
hollows," who may have lived before, or partly
contemporary with the early Ainu, and of whom
traces are supposed to remain in various locali-
ties. Ainu themselves insist that they once
fought and exterminated these people. And to
the end of the twelfth century constant warring
between Ainu and Japanese went on, evidences

294 CORONA AND CORONET

of struggle still remaining throughout the empire.
Arrowheads and stone axes are found in many
parts of Yezo, and in shell-heaps are bones of
animals, pottery, and bones peculiar to the Ainu,
who would themselves be no farther advanced in
civilization than the stone age were it not for the
ease of obtaining Japanese knives and swords.
Their primitive utensils of bark seem to serve
them as well as more elaborate implements. To
an ethnologist Yezo is full of interest, from pre-
historic pottery, evidence of pit - dwellings and
problematic Koro-pok-guru^ to present habits of
Ainu life.

Gradually driven through ages from the south
to Hokkaido, the Ainu are among the few races
yet retaining in this over-civilized age an utterly
unspoiled simplicity. Their actual beginning has
never been satisfactorily traced, but they cer-
tainly were in Japan before the present race of
Japanese had arrived, and many names clearly
originating in the Ainu tongue are still retained
all over the kingdom.

The oldest of Japanese books (the Kojiki, or
"Records of Ancient Matters"), written in 712
A. D., has this characteristic sentence : " When
our august ancestors descended from heaven in a
boat, they found upon this island several bar-
barous races, the most fierce of whom were the
Ainu." Whatever they may have been at that

IN AINU LAND 295

remote epoch it would be difficult to imagine
a more amiable nation than the few thousand
present remnants of this once numerous people.
Yet they are barbarians pure and simple in spite
of their gentleness, an interesting folk-lore, and
the practice of considerable ceremony and forms
of etiquette upon certain occasions. They have
no literature, no written language, and their arts
are the simplest. Contact with cultivated Japa-
nese for hundreds of years seems to have taught
them little or nothing — but extreme docility.
Full of a sense of kindly hospitality, they have
no ambition, and no apparent capacity for mental
training. It is said that the descendant of a
certain Ainu prince, or high chieftain, is now
perfectly content to black the boots of an Ameri-
can in Sapporo. If a genuinely strong, forceful
leader were to appear in the race, he might arouse
them. But they have no great men. Attempts
at education seem to last only during the process.
Returning to their own villages, they lapse into
their former state, or a placid forgetfulness.

My exploring expeditions to Poronaibo and
other Ainu villages near Esashi began at once, in
a method quite primitive enough to accord with
surroundings. The good ex-governor was inde-
fatigable. Giving most generously of his time
and personal influence with these retiring people,
as well as his skill in speaking their language,

296 CORONA AND CORONET

my facilities for acquiring an unusual acquain-
tance with their curious habits were exceptional.
Casual travelers visiting more accessible Ainu
villages in the south of Yezo with an ordinary
Japanese guide see little of their striking race
customs ; but coming with their especial friend
and master, I was treated more as an honored
guest than as an inquisitive stranger full of doubt-
ful intentions. Everything which might be of
interest was joyfully brought forth. The fact
that for the first time a foreign woman was
within their borders excited much curiosity, and
in all the villages they were no less glad to see
me than I was to study their strange implements
and habits. So with exceeding good-humor,
communication made easy by my helpful friend,
our mutual ethnologic studies progressed nobly.
I think it was a California paper which remarked
some months later in commenting upon my
unique journey that probably I was quite as much
of a " freak " to the Ainu as they could be to me
— undoubtedly true, but a somewhat unvarnished
statement.

There were drawbacks, however, to protracted
calls upon the Ainu, for both personally and in
their houses they are quite as dirty as the Japa-
nese are phenomenally clean. Bathing is un-
known, and their dwellings are dark, uncomfort-
able abodes, and far from fragrant. Each has

IN AINU lAND

297

two small holes for windows, — one east, the other
south. Ainu know the points of compass, and
some writers have insisted that their houses in-
variably face in one way. But I saw numbers
facing in a variety of directions, — east, north, and
west. The east end of the house and its window
are sacred, and outside is a row of poles upon
which the master of the house has stuck the
skulls of animals killed in the hunt, among them
many inao, or " god-sticks " as offerings to numer-
ous deities whose aid is so constantly invoked.
Hale 0 Keazvcy or Hawaiian tomb for the bones of
chiefs, had its outside fence of idols, twelve being
set in pillars in a semicircle around the south-
east end, — a curious similarity in the customs
of widely separate nations.

The raised part of the floor, as in ordinary
Japanese houses, has a square or rectangular hole,
where during my visits fagots were always burn-
ing, — long sticks, stretching out over the floor,
burning at one end, until short enough to lie
wholly within the fire-hole, whose left side is re-
served for the master of the house.

Smoke, although supposed to find its own way
out of a hole in the roof, seemed to prefer loiter-
ing among rafters and beams, — the hanging
medley of household possessions and drying fish
above were draped deep with soot. A jumble of
domestic debris usually lay in corners and around

298 CORONA AND CORONET

the sides of the room, and always piles of elm
fibre {atsti) ready to be pulled apart into threads
and woven into the coarse cloth {attush) worn by
both men and women. This wood-fibre is obtained
from two kinds of elm, Ulmus montana {okiyo),
and Ulmus campestris {akadama). It is pulled
from the standing tree, started with blows from
short knives carried by the men, and peeled off
in a strip perhaps a foot wide and often twenty
feet long. The ohiyo is laid in pools of water
exposed to the. sun, where the bark soon separates
from the wood-fibre proper, which is then split
into ten strips, and dried slowly to prevent its
becoming brittle.^ The strips are afterward still
farther split into threads not over an eighth of an
inch wide, the various threads tied together, and
wound into balls, five or six inches in diameter,
many of which were conspicuous in every Ainu
house visited. The women weave the thread into
durable cloth about the width of native Japanese
material, in pieces over thirty feet long, or about
six and one half times the length of the extended
arms. Such a strip occupies in the weaving three
or four days ; and the garment, when ornamented
with indigo blue Japanese cotton sewed on in
fanciful figures, is far from unpicturesque.

Okiyo makes a brown and reddish cloth, aka-

1 The akadama is chewed instead of being soaked in water ;
otherwise it is treated in the same way as the ohiyo.

TN AINU LAND 299

dama bright tan; another cloth made of tirtica
fibre is only used for burial purposes.

I called at one house to see a very old man.
The roof was thickly thatched with scrub bamboo,
and within lay a middle-aged man sound asleep
upon the floor, with one arm thrown over his face,
his bushy hair and beard making a weird frame-
work. Two or three shy children were eating
rice near the fire-hole, over which was suspended
an iron pot, full of an indescribable stew, bubbling
vigorously. A pretty young girl sat sewing orna-
ments of dark blue Japanese cotton upon an elm-
fibre garment ; and an older woman, barefooted,
with hair cut very short behind, was curled in a
tiny heap, looking up at me from under her arm
with eyes as bright and wondering in their soft
darkness as those of some shy and startled forest
animal.

Family treasures, as usual, were piled around
the room in chaotic masses, conspicuous among
them, as everywhere, several shundoku, round
boxes with four feet, of old Japanese lacquer, in
which everything of most value is kept, and which
the owner will part with last, if misfortune over-
takes him. Frequently handed down through
generations, an Ainu not fortunate enough to in-
herit one will often work a year to obtain such
a highly prized case.

An ancient legend relates that nearly a thou-

300 CORONA AND CORONET

sand years ago their hero Yoshitsune, brother of
the Shogun Yoritomo, in escaping to the Hok-
kaido from his enemies, took refuge in one of
these lacquer boxes, miraculously enabled to re-
ceive him, and was conveyed away by a loyal ad-
herent to a place of safety. This is often given in
explanation of Ainu devotion to these recepta-
cles ; and also of the holes in the lacquer supports

— through which cords were said to have been
passed, thence across the shoulders of that " faith-
ful one " whose back received the precious burden,

— a widespread fiction. Kakemono representing
Yoshitsune are brought out on feast days and re-
verently hung.

At length through the low doorway approached
the old man we had come to visit, but the room
was so dark that his fine face could hardly show
in detail. He was an impressive figure, with a
magnificent brush of white hair and beard.

But oh ! the smoke and odors ; soot, close air,
dim light, huddling family ; the mental as well as
physical atmosphere was stifling, and I was forced
to seek the intense relief of a full breath of outer
oxygen, and sunshine. Emerging, the first object
my eyes happened to fall upon was the French
cruiser lying off in the open roadstead of Esashi.
Such are the sharp and immediate contrasts in
this interesting world, — on one hand an epitome
of high civilization, on the other, Ainu huts and a

OLD AINU CHIEFTAIN

IN AINU LAND 301

near-at-hand study of an aboriginal race now rap-
idly dying out from sheer inability to maintain it-
self in the face of a more brilliant nation.

One night a dinner-party upon the French man-
of-war, — the next morning a visit to a primitive
hovel within plain sight, where books had never
been heard of, where furniture is unknown, where
lives, sleeps, eats, weaves, is born and dies, upon
the floor around a boiling pot of dreadful herbs,
an entire family whose one relief from intolerable
monotony is the occasional bear-killing and feast.

Salutation between Ainu men is elaborate and
exceedingly respectful Stretching out their
hands, the fingers are allowed to pass softly back
and forth along the palms for some time, during
which verbal greetings and best wishes are ex-
changed. Stroking their long beards slowly is
the part most obvious to a foreigner ; while a gen-
tle and inarticulate sound is made in the throat,
intended to convey consideration and appreciation.
The formal salutation sometimes lasts but a few
minutes, though often much longer. Women in-
dulge in very humble greeting to the men, part of
which consists in rubbing the upper lip under the
nose with the forefinger. Preliminary motions
having been made to attract a man's attention
sufficiently for him to indicate that she may pro-
ceed, she waits his invitation to speak. When a
man is met out of doors, women always step aside

302 CORONA AND CORONET

to give him room to pass. But with all this hu-
mility, although they do all the work with con-
stant industry, and even the consolations of the
most primitive religion are denied them (for wo-
men are not even allowed to pray since they are
generally supposed to possess no souls), neverthe-
less, an angry woman is one of the things most
dreaded in Ainu land. The variety of bad names
at her command to call the offending person is
stupendous, and the number of adjectives with
which she can heap abuse is really startling. She
does not scruple to make faces and otherwise
annoy and frighten whoever may have incurred
her anger; and the lords of Yezo are terribly
afraid of a woman in this state of mind, for there
seems hardly any end to the vindictive perform-
ances with which she will afflict a man who has
displeased her, especially if he be her husband.
The very worst thing she can do, however, is
to hide his "god-sticks," or destroy them. The
deities can hardly be supposed to discriminate as
to the person making away with the sacred sym-
bols, and a man who neglects his inao becomes an
outcast ; the gods being supposed to desert him,
men follow suit.

Women, continually repressed and allowed no
part in religion, probably sometimes become so
reckless as to fear neither gods nor man, for sui-
cides among them are not uncommon. After

IN AINU LAND 303

early youth they are by no means to be compared
with the men in fine appearance. Many girls are
handsome, but the women of middle age are char-
acterized by a stolidly dull expression of indiffer-
ent and weather-beaten resignation.

Long ago, in the first days when travelers
caught sight of Ainu women, it is not strange
that they were described as wearing mustaches,
since, from a short distance away the heavy, blue-
black tattooing around the lips gives exactly that
unlovely effect. The process of producing such
mouth-decoration is described as exceedingly pain-
ful, but the Ainu women have borne it heroically,
sustained by their happy certainty of a beautify-
ing result. Horizontal slashes are made with a
sharp knife, crossed by slanting cuts very close
together and subsequently opened wider. Color-
ing matter, made from the soot of birch wood
scraped from the bottom of an iron kettle, is then
rubbed in unflinchingly, and afterward washed
with water in which ash bark has been soaked, to
produce an indelible stain. For two or three days
the lips are so swollen and sore that moving them,
or attempting to eat, is almost impossible. But
when once healed, imagine the satisfaction of
emerging among one's friends and enemies, deco-
rated for life ! Many women have their hands,
wrists, and arms similarly treated, showing shad-
owy rings and bracelets in every available spot;

304 CORONA AND CORONET

and I saw a few with heavily ornamented fore-
heads. Young girls are attractive, for the dismal
tattooing was forbidden by the Japanese govern-
ment about eleven years ago, and while not abso-
lutely suppressed, it must be done surreptitiously,
and is far less frequent than formerly. Their
clear brown skin generally shows a warm russet
red in the cheeks, and beautiful dark eyes are
shaded by long and thick eyelashes. In the
younger generation, too, the luxuriant black hair
is often simply coiled instead of being cut in the
strangely awkward native way, perfectly short at
the back of the head nearly halfway to the top,
and standing out thickly on each side like an over-
grown hearth - brush. A blue and white Japan-
ese towel is sometimes rather artistically twisted
around the head. It has been reported, though I
did not notice this, that wives of chiefs wear a
string wound six times round the waist, those of
common men but three. Ainu women do not
blacken their teeth, as Japanese fashion formerly
decreed for married women of that nation, but
they have handsome teeth, white and even. Inor-
dinately fond of jewelry of whatever material, the
richest woman is she who owns the largest num-
ber of necklaces, made of large porcelain or stone
beads with huge circular ornaments suspended
from them, sometimes pieces of leather studded
with bits of brass or German silver. The beads

AINU WOMAN CARRYING CHILD AND BURDEN

IN AINU LAND 305

are undeniably picturesque, many of a brilliant
turquoise blue, and oddly mottled ones brought
from Saghalien. These necklaces are worn at
bear-feasts, when everything is in gala array for
the only great occasions of the Ainu year.

Of course I wished to purchase one of these
characteristic ornaments ; and at last I found a
woman, who, contrary to the usual custom, thought
she would like some money ; and rather sadly, yet
with much pride, brought forth a box containing
five bead necklaces. She was certainly a person
of great consequence ; but she fingered her pos-
sessions lovingly, looking regretfully at her cher-
ished riches, though allowing me to examine
them, while she said softly in her strange native
tongue that the foreign lady might take her
choice. Personally she would undoubtedly have
been satisfied with very little money ; but an old
Japanese man in the village, of much apparent
authority, sent word to her that as he had origi-
nally purchased the beads before she had come
into possession of them, he would tell her their
exact worth. Whereupon he proceeded to esti-
mate the value, bead by bead, making the gentle
Ainu woman open her soft brown eyes in amaze-
ment under their long lashes, and causing con-
siderable discouragement in the breast of the
would-be purchaser. We came to an ultimate
understanding, however, and I bore the necklace
away in triumph.

3o6 CORONA AND CORONET

When some person of high rank in the nation
comes to an Ainu house, a formal and ceremoni-
ous sake drinking takes place. A drop is whisked
off the " mustache-lifter " to the god of the sun,
Chippu Kamui in the Ainu language; next, one
to the god of mountains, Kimon Kamui, then the
god of the sea, Atoi Kamui, to the god of Hok-
kaido, Mushirori Kamui, the god of villages, Ko-
tangoro Kamui, the god of the house, Tsuigoro
Kamui, the god of fire, Abe Kamui, and to the
god of all, Obishida Kamui, who is included last
with a comprehensive sweep of the mustache-
lifter around the whole room. Only the first cup
of sake must be thus dispersed to the reigning
powers ; all subsequent drops being religiously
kept for the active participants in the ceremony,
who may then proceed to enjoy themselves with
light hearts. These carved sticks, used to lift the
heavy hair from the lip when drinking, are often
elaborately ornamented.

During one of my rides, a number of rivers had
to be crossed, either by fording, or by a primitive
boat pulled across by a rope. One village of
about twenty houses was close to a stream, and
as we rode directly to the ferry, in order to get
luncheon at a Japanese house a mile or two be-
yond, several thickly bearded men followed to
watch and perhaps assist the embarkation, while
a handsome girl ran down to beg that we should

IN AINU LAND 307

Stop on the return ; for she must see the foreign
lady, fearing no other would ever visit the village.
A withered old crone, bent quite double, and
walking with much difficulty by aid of a long staff
whose curiously carved top reached high above
her head, hobbled after, giving voluble directions
to the men about getting us over the river. Quite
different from the expression of the older women
generally, her face had a keen, cunning, almost
sinister look, and bushy white hair stood out on
both sides as if electrified. Huge hoops of Ger-
man silver ornamented her ears, and a broad brass
bracelet her tattooed arm. Her mouth, too, was
heavily tattooed, and she held her elm-fibre robe
tightly together with one shriveled hand. Across
the river her small, sharp eyes followed us, even
after we had struck into a quick gallop on the
beach beyond. A weird fascination hung about
this odd antiquity, and fortunately on the return
a hard shower necessitated taking shelter in the
house where she seemed to live.

Around were grouped daughters and grand-
daughters, both generations with babies strapped
upon their backs, Japanese fashion, all but the
youngest girls showing the disfigurement of blue-
black stripes around the lips. Fagots burned as
usual in the square hole, and lying about it were
a number of lazy Ainu men, their strong, almost
prehensile toes luxuriously spread out to the

3o8 CORONA AND CORONET

blaze. The whole household made way politely
for the drenched foreigner and her companions,
— producing tea and sweetmeats after hats and
gloves had been taken to the fire to be dried. It
was here that one of the younger girls promised
to give an Ainu dance ; but afterward, overcome
by shyness, she slipped away.

Several women were, as usual, industriously en-
gaged in sewing upon the aprons and kimono of
elm-fibre different figures cut from Japanese cot-
ton ; and one was weaving the woody cloth in a
primitive loom quite handsomely carved. It was
a strange scene, — dark room, fitfully flickering
fire, idle men with their noble faces, industrious
women working by the firelight or leaning toward
the faint light coming in at an open door from the
clouded day without, and the visitors in the midst
of them, treated as honored guests yet not dis-
turbing the family routine. Just outside, the drip-
ping horses waited to be remounted, ready to
resume their miscellaneous scramble or free, wild
gallop back to Esashi, while sharp-nosed dogs
with glorious thick yellow coats peered in at the
door.

I found here a small man, dark and very hairy,
with a gentle expression, who was willing to sell
"the best bow in the village." He had actual
tears in his eyes as he told me how many bears it
had shot, but that now, since hunting with poisoned

IN AINU LAND 309

arrows was forbidden, he saw no use in keeping it
longer, — a small tragedy in its way.

The Ainu seem to consider the world as round,
yet they are quite ignorant of astronomy, and re-
gard the Milky Way as the "river of the gods,"
affording excellent sport to divinities who spend
their time fishing in it. I discovered that great
fear is held of comets, or "broom stars." They
call one lunation a month, and twelve lunations
a year. In their language star is kidda^ the sun
chipkommoi, and the moon kuny chipkommoi.

Fish, and in later years rice, with a few vege-
tables cultivated by women, certain lily bulbs and
seaweed, form their usual food, bear's meat and
venison being great luxuries.

In early spring, when the deep snows of a Yezo
winter are yet hard upon the ground, the mighty
Ainu hunter sets forth upon the only occupation
which seems to him worthy of manly attention.
The favor of the gods is always asked before
starting out on one of these exciting and momen-
tous excursions, the deities presiding over moun-
tains, rivers, springs, and fire being entreated in
turn to lend aid to the enterprise. After the bear
has been killed, either in its den where it still lies
partially torpid until warmer weather, or just out-
side, having been annoyed into emerging, or in
the pit where it has been decoyed, the hunters
make profound obeisance to this object of their

310 CORONA AND CORONET

admiration. Spring-bows or traps are sometimes
stretched in the woods, when the unhappy bear
shoots himself. Upon returning to the village the
whole scene is related in realistic fashion to those
left behind, while the deities are praised for their
gracious presence which brought success to the
hunt, and sake is taken in unlimited quantities
with bear's meat at the great feast. Getting stu-
pidly drunk upon sake is, indeed, the chief vice
of an otherwise amiable and harmless race. It is
said that of the Ainu men nine out of ten are sake
drunkards. Fortunately the women are not con-
sidered worthy to receive enough of the precious
liquid to reduce them to any such state.

Bear cubs, often taken alive, are nourished and
brought up by the women in the same way as very
young infants. This curious fact, stated by some
writers, has been as vigorously denied by others ;
but Esashi held many eye-witnesses to the reality of
this barbarous custom. When the baby bear gets
too large for a safe playmate in the house, a great
entertainment is made to which guests are invited,
even from distaht villages ; the women are arrayed
in all their pomp of jewelry and beads, some going
so far, it was asserted, as to wash their hands.
The men put on their head-dress of shavings, and
the sacred sticks of shaven willow are stuck in the
hearth as offerings to the gods. The little bear is
then killed in a very cruel manner, after his pardon

IN AINU LAND 311

is asked for doing away with him. Scenes of rev-
elry follow for two or three days, when sake is
again drunk to excess, and rioting prevails until
the meat is all eaten. Then the village resumes
its wonted dullness. Bear festivals, now becoming
rarer, are the opera, theatre, afternoon tea, recep-
tion, and dinner-party of the Ainu.

Shooting bears with poisoned arrows has now,
like tattooing the mouth, been forbidden by gov-
ernment. The poison with which the hollow
groove in the arrow-head was filled was made
from a combination of the brains of crows, ashes
of tobacco, and two kinds of insects, one of them
the krombiy a water insect found attached to sticks
and stones, the other called yonsike. These four
ingredients mixed together and allowed to decay
form a strong poison. Sometimes, however, the
deadly nightshade was used instead. In Saghalien
aconite roots are cleaned and scraped, then sliced
and pounded to powder, which is boiled and
strained, boiled again, and carefully put away,
perhaps in a shell. Six dead spiders are boiled,
and put in another shell ; and the gall from three
freshly killed foxes is also boiled by itself. These
three concoctions are then mixed, and the strength
of the combination tested by touching it to the
tongue.

Ainu implements, garments, and utensils have
often, like lacquer treasure-boxes, been handed

312 CORONA AND CORONET

down for uncounted years. Frequently a family
has but one of each article, and that highly prized,
which accounts for a prevailing disinclination to
sell their possessions. To buy anything from an
Ainu house requires tact and diplomacy even more
than that necessary in purchasing old mahogany
or china from some unwilling but hesitating eld-
erly lady on a lonely New England country road.
My knowledge of the Ainu tongue being even less
than my familiarity with Japanese, I left all these
little amenities to my companion, only telling him
that I would buy everything they were willing to
sell. His persuasiveness, and the promise of un-
limited sake besides purchase money, brought me a
miscellaneous collection of Ainu robes of elm-fibre,
and one of highly ornamented salmon skin, bows
and a quiver of poisoned arrows, weaving appa-
ratus, carved "mustache lifters," tobacco boxes,
knife handles and sheaths, and a rude stringed
instrument. He also induced them to part with
other dearly cherished heirlooms ; and one or two
pieces of old Japanese lacquer, made for Ainu use,
have found their way to a distant land, as well as
more primitive utensils of birch bark. The larger
part of this collection has gone to Professor Morse,
and has become part of the Peabody Museum at
Salem. I have, too, a wooden eating bowl, rudely
carved. As it was never washed, but merely
wiped out with the finger after using, it has ac-

IN AINU LAND 313

quired a rich and polished brown surface. I do
not use it for bonbons. A "deer-call" I did not
find, — a bamboo instrument with skin stretched
across, by which the cry of deer is imitated.

Aprons, ankle coverings, and bands passing
around the forehead by which women carry heavy
burdens on their backs, all made of elm-fibre cloth,
I succeeded in obtaining ; and still better, two
"god-sticks," the mao mentioned before. They
are not idols, but more properly offerings to the
god. Maple and willow are commonly used, one
end being converted into long and fine curly shav-
ings, either pulled apart in a fluffy mass or kept in
different sorts of careful ringlets. The fluffy one
is dedicated to the god of fire, the smoothly curled
one given me, to the god of the mountains. They
refused any money for these sticks, which are
made with some sort of sacred ceremony, but sig-
nified their willingness to accept a few quarts of
sakcy and of rice. These luxuries, dedicated to
the god in whose honor the sticks were made, are
rededicated, after sufficient time has elapsed, to
the master of the house and his friends in a more
practical way. The Ainu near Esashi had quite
taken me to their innocent hearts, and every day
some of them came with one thing and another,
learning that I really enjoyed their utensils and
ornaments. When an old woman appeared at the
eclipse station carrying one of their greatly valued

314 CORONA AND CORONET

round lacquer boxes, with permission for me to
buy it, I felt that I had really won their affection.

In these northern regions Ainu often possess
two residences, perhaps because of the extremely
rigorous climate of Yezo, necessitating greater
shelter during deep snows. The Sea of Okhotsk
is sometimes blocked with ice for many miles from
the coast. The winter home is called in their own
language as nearly as I could write it, riya kotaity
the latter word meaning "residing place," while
riya is the equivalent of "to pass the year," ap-
plied to the winter. Their summer home seems
to have no corresponding term, but if in Horo-
betsu, for instance, it would be called Horobetsu-
tsui-karu, " to build " in that town. This was told
me at Esashi by Japanese who speak the Ainu
language, and by an Ainu himself.

As a people they are very superstitious, and
fortune-telling prevails to a certain extent, not by
the lines of the palm, but in ways quite as pictur-
esque and perhaps not less effective. After dark
the fire is extinguished, and two small bamboo
sticks crossed and tied together are laid before the
fortune-teller, who begins to pray aloud. Before
long, so an intelligent Ainu told me seriously, the
bamboo sticks stand upright unaided, and are said
by some of the more devout actually to dance, thus
indicating that the spirit of the god has entered
into them, and is quite prepared to reveal the

IN AINU LAND 315

unknown. The fortune-teller is then moved to
speak their fate for others in the assembly, who
keep their heads devoutly bowed.

Medicines and care of the sick are recent inno-
vations. Formerly, when a person became ill, he
simply wrapped up his head and lay down uncom-
plainingly to die, — the chief attempt to circum-
vent fate being prayers to the gods, although
certain herbs, in various strange decoctions, were
used for familiar diseases. Superstitious ceremo-
nies accompanied drawing out evil spirits, and
charms were given to bring back the god of
health.

But when death has actually taken place, the
subject is so full of horror that the Ainu wish to
forget it as soon as possible. Some necessary
formalities have to be endured, however. Large
household fires and feasts begin, crowds assemble,
the chief treasures of the dead person are brought
out, and countless god-sticks are made and placed
about the body and the house. Finally, the corpse
is buried, and they try at once to forget the place
of burial, although sticks cut in the form of a
spear, for a man, are placed at the grave ; but the
Ainu will not tell strangers where their dead are
buried, and any ethnological collection is a remark-
able one which can boast a " grp.ve-post " or an
Ainu skull. Each grave is in a separate locality,
far away in the forest or among the mountains.

3i6 CORONA AND CORONET

and fear of ghosts is so great that the survivors
almost never visit a grave ; the posts are apt to
disappear soon, and the whole matter is covered
in oblivion. As an Ainu stands in deadly terror
of an angry woman, so he fears nothing so much
as the ghost of an old woman, thought to be full
of maliciousness and power for evil. A sort of
belief in an individual immortality is thus shown
to be inherent, in spite of the refusal to believe
practically that a woman has a soul. Some of
their certainties about a future existence would be
of great interest to psychical societies.

Few tribes remaining anywhere, indeed, will so
well repay study, yet there are few of whom so
little can be known. With no written language
there can have been no reliable records, and their
dread of speaking of the dead is an impediment
to the accurate transmission of verbal history.
Necessarily the Ainu are being pushed to the
wall by the keen and brilliant Japanese, and have
well been said to live "a petrified life." Yet
the government makes wise laws for protection
of these children of the nation, and acts toward
them in an altogether civilized manner. A society
exists in Sapporo for their assistance, which num-
bers among its members several distinguished
Japanese scholars, one of them Professor Nagata,
an expert in Ainu matters, and one of the best
historians in Japan. One result only is inevitable

IN AINU LAND 317

from the collision of two races where one is far
inferior and the other is masterfully conscious of
itself.

Although a late census numbers about 17,000
Ainu, a slight gain over previous years, the im-
pression seems to be generally prevalent that they
are actually and steadily dying out. Half-breeds,
Ainu and Japanese, rarely survive the second or
third generation. The race evidently lacks force,
and will be entirely unable to hold its own in the
march of nations. Bears are decreasing in num-
ber; many characteristic customs are forbidden
by law, and will soon die out completely; and
gradual extinction of the race will be a pathetic
feature of the further development of the Hok-
kaido.

But sun and moon, in their inconceivable flight
through space, were almost in line, the day was
close at hand, and my interest in these singularly
fascinating Ainu was lost in a study of clouds and
weather conditions, the working of apparatus, and
of celestial rather than earthly curiosities.

Summer's climax came upon Esashl

CHAPTER XXIX

THE ECLIPSE

To solemnize this day the glorious sun
Stays in his course.

Shakespeare, King Johiiy III. i.

Friday, the seventh of August, dawned por-
tentously, with a strong south wind and drifting
clouds. It was very warm, and bright at inter-
vals. By evening rain set in, and all night tor-
rents of water fell on the roof with a noise like
shot. Saturday brought more south wind, occa-
sional rain, moving cloud. Once in a while
spots of blue shone through — increasing the
nerve tension. The Astronomer, cheerful, ener-
getic, showed no sign that nature's vagaries and
threats were disturbing him, but, constantly busy
with final details, passed from one instrument to
another, clear, methodical, definite. Working of
apparatus was perfect ; motions were made with
automatic precision, all within the time limit, all
without human intervention except to press a
key at the start which sent electric currents
through its mysterious, ramifying nerves.

Saturday toward evening the rain suddenly
ceased ; a fresh feeling in the wind disclosed a

THE ECLIPSE 319

change to the hopeful west, bringing a superb
sunset, — shreds of rose and salmon and laven-
der glowed against a yellow background.

During the two days' rain none of our usually
multitudinous callers had appeared ; but by the
light of sunset a dozen or more came together, —
guests of distinction in the town as well as the
village officer and leading citizens.

Another elaborate speech was made, explain-
ing that in the storm their hearts had failed
them; they could not look at this fine appara-
tus, remembering our patient preparation, when
a chance of cloud on Sunday might ruin every-
thing; but that now in the light of a bright
sunset they came joyfully, bringing congratula-
tions upon the weather from the fishermen, who
were said to know all signs of the sky ; and with
hopeful portents from a book of prophecy and a
local oracle, interrogated at a neighboring shrine.
This cheering oracle we believed the more read-
ily as telegrams from Sapporo and from the
Central Meteorological Observatory at Tokyo an-
nounced " Clear to-morrow ! " In truth all pro-
mised happily.

Stars enough came out in the evening for final
tests of the instruments, and everything was in
readiness.

Directions for observing the eclipse had been
written by the Astronomer, translated into Jap-

320 CORONA AND CORONET

anese, printed and distributed to inhabitants all
along the pathway of anticipated darkness, and
some school-teachers in the village were to ascend
a fairly accessible hill near by with implements
for drawing the corona, and with a photographic
instrument lent from our camp.

Sunday dawned through a heavy shower. Sun-
shine succeeded : cloud followed blue sky, north-
west wind almost supplanted a damp breeze from
the south full of scudding vapor. And still the
hours rolled on toward two o'clock and "first
contact."

The Astronomer had arranged the programme
of each person with exactness long before. He
.still kept calmly at work, giving final directions,
the multitude of details resolutely kept in mind
with a philosophy as imperturbable as if skies
were clear, and cloudless totality a celestial cer-
tainty. Vagaries of the western horizon, the
moods of wind and prevailing drift of cirrus and
cumulus had no farther power to annoy or dis-
tract. Time was too precious. It remained for
the unofficial member of the party to alternate
between such hope and despair that nervous
prostration seemed imminent. She watched the
attempt at clearing, a matter of but a few hours,
and still hoped it would come in time.

At one o'clock almost half the sky was blue —
two o'clock, and the moon had already bitten a

THE ECLIPSE 321

small piece out of the sun's bright edge, still
partly obscured by a dimly drifting mass of cloud.
Half after two, and a large part of the town was
ranged along the fence inclosing our apparatus,
once in a while looking at the narrowing cres-
cent, but generally at our instruments, the sober
faces in curious contrast to sooty decorations
from their bits of smoked glass.

And then perceptible darkness crept onward,
— everything grew quiet. The moon was steal-
ing her silent way across the sun till his cres-
cent grew thin and wan.

The Ainu suppose an eclipse is caused by the
fainting or dying of the sun-god, toward whom,
as he grows black in the face, they whisk drops
of water from god-sticks or mustache lifters as
they would in the case of a fainting person.

But no one spoke.

Shortly before totality, to occur just after
three, Esashi time. Chief and I went over to the
little lighthouse and mounted to its summit, —
an ideal vantage ground for a spectacle beyond
anything else it has ever been my fortune to wit-
ness.

A camera was propped up beside me, with a
plate ready for exposure upon sampans and junks
near by, to test the photographic power of coro-
nal light. Black disks, carefully prepared upon
white paper, had been distributed to a number of

322 CORONA AND CORONET

persons, and several others were ready on the lit-
tle platform, for drawing coronal streamers.

By this time the light was very cold and gray,
like stormy winter twilight. The Alger rested
motionless on a solid sea. A man in a scarlet
blanket at work in a junk made a single spot of
color.

Grayer and grayer grew the day, narrower and
narrower the crescent of shining sunlight. The
sea faded to leaden nothingness.

Armies of crows which had pretended entire
indifference, gazing abroad upon the scene, or
fighting and flapping on gables and flagpoles
with unabated energy, at last succumbed and
flew off in a body, friends and enemies together,
in heavy haste to a dense pine forest on the
mountain-side.

The Alger became invisible — sampans and
junks faded together into colorlessness ; but
grass and verdure turned suddenly vivid yellow-
green. A penetrating chill fell across the land,
as if a door had been opened into a long-closed
vault. It was a moment of appalling suspense ;
something was being waited for — the very air
was portentous.

The circling sea-gulls disappeared with strange
cries. One white butterfly fluttered by vaguely.
Then an instantaneous darkness leaped upon the
world. Unearthly night enveloped all.

|i{iifi|ifji|||ii|,|i|i^ 'iiijlj" ^ yFi''™™f^flll|||p|||||'

iljj' iB 1 liJ I,

THE ECLIPSE 323

With an indescribable out-flashing at the same
instant the corona burst forth in mysterious
radiance. But dimly seen through thin cloud, it
was nevertheless beautiful beyond description, a
celestial flame from some unimaginable heaven.
Simultaneously the whole northwestern sky,
nearly to the zenith, was flooded with lurid and
startlingly brilliant orange, across which drifted
clouds slightly darker, like flecks of liquid flame,
or huge ejecta from some vast volcanic Hades.
The west and southwest gleamed in shining lemon
yellow.

Least like a sunset, it was too sombre and ter-
rible. The pale, broken circle of coronal light
still glowed on with thrilling peacefulness, while
nature held her breath for another stage in this
majestic spectacle.

Well might it have been a prelude to the
shriveling and disappearance of the whole world,
— weird to horror, and beautiful to heartbreak,
heaven and hell in the same sky.

Absolute silence reigned. No human being
spoke. No bird twittered. Even sighing of the
surf breathed into utter repose, and not a ripple
stirred the leaden sea.

One human being seemed so small, so helpless,
so slight a part of all this strangeness and mys-
tery ! It was as if the hand of Deity had been
visibly laid upon space and worlds, to allow one

324 CORONA AND CORONET

momentary glimpse of the awfulness of crea-
tion.

Hours might have passed — time was annihi-
lated ; and yet when the tiniest globule of sun-
light, a drop, a needle-shaft, a pinhole, reap-
peared, even before it had become the slenderest
possible crescent, the fair corona and all color in
sky and cloud withdrew, and a natural aspect of
stormy twilight returned. Then the two minutes
and a half in memory seemed but a few seconds,
— a breath, the briefest tale ever told.

As the beautiful corona lay there in the clouds,
a soft unearthly radiance, the poetic effect as
strong as if in a clear sky, the scientific value
lost in vapors, it was still noticeably flattened at
the poles and extended equatorially, and must
have been of unusual brilliance to show so dis-
tinctly through cloud. The shape gives sugges-
tion to astronomers as to new lines of future re-
search.

Just after totality a telegram came from the
Astronomer Royal of England, far away on the
southeastern coast at Akkeshi : " Thick cloud.
Nothing done."

Nature knows how to be cruel, or possibly it is
mere indifference. But until, in his search after
tbe unknown, man learns to circumvent cloud,
I ijiust still feel that she holds every advan-
tage. On that fateful Sunday afternoon the sun,

THE ECLIPSE 325

emerging from partial eclipse, set cheerfully in a
clear sky ; the next morning dawned cloudless
and sparkling.

A few pictures of the blurred corona were
taken, if of little practical use, and an interest-
ing experiment for Roentgen rays seemed to in-
dicate their presence in coronal light, — a curious
result, since they have not been found in full
sunlight.

But a useful and tangible outcome of the expe-
dition is afforded by this practical demonstration
that a great number of instruments can be em-
ployed in recording the corona automatically, not
only dispensing with the multitude of assistants
necessary for manipulating each at critical mo-
ments, but virtually lengthening the precious
minutes of totality many fold.

The corona, thus safely caught, can now be
laid on our tables in manifold representations,
and interrogated through the months following
an eclipse until the most telling questions for its
next coming are plainly evident.

And Esashi had vindicated its choice. Of all
the places where meteorological observations had
been made, it proved the best — clouds, that is,
were thinnest.

Nothing appeared upon the plate exposed to
the sampans ; coronal light was not strong enough
to impress them upon the sensitive surface.

326 CORONA AND CORONET

But the apparatus remains — from the ap-
proach of the idea in Shirakawa, in 1887, when
it was roughly but accurately carried out for the
eclipse of that year ; the far better evolution in
West Africa in 1889 by pneumatic contrivances;
and the smoothly running devices intrusted to
electricity in Yezo in 1896, — perfected result of
three cloudy eclipses.

CHAPTER XXX

A NATIVE CELEBRATION

Whilest that the childe is young let him be instructed in vertue and lyttera-

ture.

Lyly, a naiomy of Wit.

Thou hast most traitorously corrupted the youth of the realm in erecting

a grammar school.

Shakespeare, 2 Henry VI., iv. 7.

Schools — they are the Sem.inaries of State.

B. JoNSON, Discoveries.

It might naturally be supposed that an Ameri-
can in northern Yezo would have time and to
spare. The facts were that I was breathlessly
hurried every day. Always there were more
things to do than hours for their accomplish-
ment. The Ainu must be constantly visited and
studied, collections of ethnological articles in-
creased, copious notes taken of all queer surround-
ings, calls received, horseback rides up and
down the coast (when occasionally a horse would
lie down while fording a stream, — merely a tem-
porary inconvenience), and, most distracting of
all, the new school-building was dedicated with
elaborate ceremonies, followed by a great dinner,
the whole occupying an entire day.

The Japanese are soberly and deeply inter-

328 CORONA AND CORONET

ested in education. The presence in this re-
mote region of so, many members of the Board
from southern Yezo for the coming ceremonies
sufficiently attested that. And the eleventh of
August was the great day.

There was a certain peculiarity in thinking of
Esashi as an educational centre, but the doughty
ex-governor, through whom I had reached the
Ainu, who seemed to own the whole region, and
to whom every inhabitant for miles around bowed
to the ground when he passed, comes to Esashi
for its advantages to his nine children. He was
a Samurai retainer of Matsumse in old feudal
days. Generally he has a number of Ainu as
servants, and reported that they do excellently
until spring, when, being consumed by a desire
to drink sake to excess, they become practically
useless. He is a sort of feudal dignitary him-
self now, and had just built an immense new
house, where he one day gave an elaborate Japan-
ese luncheon. Eggs were served in six different
ways ; but the most remarkable dish was the roe
of sea-cucumber, kept for three years and eaten
with a few drops of vinegar. Pink and elastic, it
was considered a great delicacy.

On dedication morning he accompanied me
for an ante-breakfast walk to some Ainu houses
near by, thus far omitted in my longer trips.
All the way relays of Japanese children were

A NATIVE CELEBRATION 329

met, in their best clothes and with clean and
happy faces, starting joyfully for school, the
little girls in bright kimono and obi, their hair,
black and shining, ornamented with gay hair-
pins, the boys in white-crowned black caps, gray
or dark blue kimono, and divided skirts. As we
passed along, the friendly governor told many
interesting tales of Saghalien, where he lived for
several years. Curious things find their way to
Yezo from that far island, and amid the constant
groups of smiling children his talk grew remi-
niscent.

Six races inhabit those chilly shores, — Ainu,
Manchurian, Kurin, Oroku, Nekubun, and Sau-
ran. The governor had already presented me
with a handsome fur rug made by Kurin women
there from the fine head-fur of an animal some-
what resembling a deer, but with larger feet and
heavier ankles, and horns showing thirty or forty
small branches. Natives call it tonakai. Mo-
thers in Saghalien suspend bark from the rafters
of their huts, in which the baby is swung, a
string attached from it to the foot. Although in
1857 there were over two thousand Ainu there,
they have now dwindled to less than half.

Returning to camp for breakfast, a committee
of officials, including the vice-governor of Hok-
kaido, and governor of Kitami and two other
northern provinces, was found waiting to conduct

330 CORONA AND CORONET

the Astronomer to the school building. Very
soon an imposing procession set forth for that
seat of learning, surrounded by its turf fence.
A huge triumphal arch of evergreen surmounted
the entrance gate, with festoons of scarlet and
white flags and lanterns. Dignitaries and guests
were first ushered into a room with low tables
where tea was served, adjourning afterward to the
large schoolroom beyond, filled with boys and
girls, around them numerous officials of educa-
tion and government, and a few Buddhist priests
with finely intellectual faces. Men filling na-
tional positions had come to remote Esashi for
this occasion, an evidence of earnest ambition
. along the best lines.

The three astronomers. Professor Deslandres,
Professor Terao, and Professor Todd, sat near the
closed shrine of exquisitely smooth wood, brass
ornaments, and royal purple drapery, containing
the Emperor's portrait. On a corner of the plat-
form was a minute musical instrument like a
tiny parlor organ, also covered with purple.
At three single notes every child rose, and, drag-
ging unconscionably, all sang in unison the
National Anthem (page 154). Japanese music
avoids half-tones — founded upon the harmonic
minor scale, the intervals most frequently sung
are strangely unnatural, the tonic playing no
apparent part whatever in the basis of any

A NATIVE CELEBRATION' 331

melody, ending, as many do, in mid-air upon the
seventh. The singing tone, moreover, is exceed-
ingly nasal, quite different from the gentle, or-
dinary speaking voice, and the children's throats
actually distended with pushing and squeezing
the notes.

This finished, the school principal rose, faced
the sacred cabinet, and bowed. Opening the
doors with dignified deliberation, he exposed the
portraits of Emperor and Empress, whereat every
child bent to the floor, remaining in that position
for two or three minutes in utter silence. At
three organ notes they slowly stood upright once
more. Facing the portraits, the principal then
gave allegiance and congratulation in impressive
tones, while all bent low once more, and the
shrine was closed.

A long box, like the case of a kakemono, was
next produced, and, opening it, a scroll was held
up, containing the Emperor's message, read
aloud while all school heads were devoutly
bowed.

More singing, — a piece ending on the fourth
of the scale as the National Anthem does on the
second, — and the good mayor, Shirasaka-san,
rose for a speech. Still more singing at its con-
clusion, after which the vice-governor Suzuki-
san, read from an imposing document, and Some-
san, head officer of the Colonial Department,

332 CORONA AND CORONET

addressed the assembly. To all these gentlemen
the school rose and bowed in turn. Happily all
the speeches were short. Some others had also
given a few words, but their positions did not
entitle them to bows. Finally one of the school-
boys read some sort of a response on the part of
the scholars, — exceedingly well too ; and another
song followed.

Then the American Astronomer was called
upon ; the children rose and bowed, and remained
standing until he finished. Among other things
he presented the school with a fine framed pic-
ture of the corona of 1878, one of the famous
Trouvelot drawings, urged them to have English
studied, and presented some books we already
had in Esashi, promising others sent later from
Tokyo. This speech was gracefully translated,
sentence upon sentence, by clever Mr. Oshima.
Afterward Professor Deslandres made a short
speech in French, interpreted by Professor Terao,
who, years before, had studied at the University
of Paris.

The mayor thanked the Astronomer for his
gifts to the school ; an appetizing Japanese lun-
cheon was served, the baked salmon especially
delicious, and so the new building was fairly
inaugurated.

Later, toward sunset, a dinner in honor of the
Americans was given at a spacious tea-house

A NATIVE CELEBRATION- 333

newly built near by, the stars and stripes and
red sun flags draped at the entrance, the feast
occurring in a large upper room wide open on
opposite sides to sea and town. With much
deliberation the worthies assembled, occupying
nearly three hours in getting there. The cook-
ing was exceedingly fine, the serving perfect.
Maids in waiting were charmingly dressed in
silk crepe, blue or pale green, with magnificently
brocaded obiy and elaborately smooth hair, like an
exquisite picture. A wonder would irrelevantly
intrude itself as to what sort of waitresses would
be encountered in a "tavern" in the wilds of
northern Maine, or in a fishing village of Nova
Scotia, localities far easier of access than this
Okhotsk shore.

Just before the feast the mayor had brought in
a long strip of white satin for a kakemono. The
Astronomer, Chief, and I were requested to paint
upon it either pictures or poems. Brushes,
colors, Japanese ink, and water accompanied it.
Chief, of course, composed an original verse.
The Professor was content with an appropri-
ate line or two from Shakespeare, while a few
rushes in one corner with her name attested the
modesty of a third contributor. Professor Terao
placed his personal red seal upon the strip ; and
I doubt not a memorable kakemono now adorns
the mayor's residence.

334 CORONA AND CORONET

But days in the far-away little town were draw-
ing to an end. -Every time I came back from
any excursion a few more instruments had been
taken down, a few more boxes packed, a few
more gifts from the kindly inhabitants brought
in, as well as prospective kakemono in the shape
of additional strips of silk and satin and fine
paper for verses and autographs. Occasionally
an aged Ainu or Japanese was found awaiting
my return with farther aboriginal articles which
I bought with alacrity — and yen. In the even-
ings the watchman going his rounds beating
two sticks to announce his faithfulness lulled us
to slumber, and the final day came on apace.

Captain Boutet of the Alger had courteously
invited the Astronomer and his companion, also
Chief, to return to Yokohama on that famous
cruiser. A special Yusen Kaisha steamer, already
dispatched from the south for the expedition and
apparatus, was expected daily.

On the sixteenth of August, a lovely summer
day with a hint of coming coolness in the air,
the Commandant sent his gig ashore for us, and
truly reluctant good-bys were said, not only to
expedition members, still waiting, but to the few
Ainu shyly looking on from the outskirts, and to
a crowd of warm-hearted Japanese who had done
everything in their power for our assistance,
honor, and pleasure. Accompanying the gig to

A NATIVE CELEBRATION 335

the Alger was the big sampan built for the Em-
peror's portrait, now filled with the familiar and
friendly faces of Shirasaka-san (the mayor) ; the
lovable, big ex-governor ; Hiroya-san, and others
who never ceased waving so long as we stood in
sight upon the Commandant's overhanging after-
balcony.

But the lighthouse where I witnessed the
eclipse grew smaller, and faded ; the little gray
town disappeared. Esashi was but a memory, sad
yet dear.

Most unlikely is it that we shall see Yezo,
much less Kitami Province again ; but a warm
spot in my heart still glows at thought of this
hospitable village, encompassed by impenetra-
ble forest, surrounded by aboriginal Ainu, and
facing the far north over the uneasy wastes of
the Sea of Okhotsk.

" The crimson sunset faded into gray ;

Upon the murmurous sea the twilight fell;
The last warm breath of the delicious day
Passed with a mute farewell.

" Above my head, in the soft purple sky,

A wild note sounded like a shrill-voiced bell ;
Three gulls met, wheeled, and parted with a cry
That seemed to say, farewell."

CHAPTER XXXI

VOYAGE ON A FRENCH CRUISER

Et puis, peu k peu, on vit s'eclairer trhs loin une autre chim^re : une sorte
de decoupure rosee trhs haute, qui etait un proraontoire de la sombre Islande.

Pierre Loti, Pecheur (P Islande.

Le soleil . . • n'avait plus de halo, et son disque rond ayant repris des con-
tours tres accuses, il semblait plutot quelque pauvre planete jaune, mouraute,

qui se serait arretee Ik indecise, au milieu d'un chaos.

Loti.

Because of a delightful habit of the Command-
ant, the Astronomer and I were enabled to cir-
cumnavigate the island of Yezo. Avoiding the
same course in going and returning, Captain
Boutet always varies his routes when possible,
and he, like ourselves, had reached Esashi by the
west coast. When twilight settled over the gray
sea, L' Alger was well along toward the eastern
end of the island, her black bow pointed almost
due east, the little after-balcony over the water
holding a congenial company, — the two astrono-
mers and the Commandant watching the fading
shores, while I sat just inside the door, in the
dainty salon which with the two or three other
apartments forming his own private suite Captain
Boutet had devoted to his newest guest.

He has been an indefatigable and discriminat-

VOYAGE ON A FRENCH CRUISER 337

ing collector of fine Japanese and Chinese plates,
platters, and odd pieces of porcelain, which deco-
rate superbly the walls and ceilings of these
charming rooms when in port, — all carefully
packed away at sea. Still, articles enough of a
less frangible nature adorn them constantly, to
conceal, or at least to grace, the solid steel walls
of this great war vessel.

"Automatic photography of celestial objects is
the astronomy of the future," Professor Des-
landres was saying, as the waves beneath the
balcony grew rougher, and the three came in to
the brightly lighted parlor, gay with panels and
kakemono, " and Professor Todd is its precursor
and prophet."

His interest in the Amherst apparatus had
been strong, as ours in his own fine spectro-
scopes, and many delightful calls between the
two stations had passed at Esashi. But this
evening at sea was really the first quiet, unhur-
ried, and really favorable time for talking over
technical matters ; and I soon left them for the
little bedroom with its square window opening to
wide sea and sky, the fascinating blue dragon
china fittings, each a separate work of art, and
the luxurious bed, compared with which Japan-
ese mats in the dear old Esashi schoolhouse felt
very hard even in remembrance.

Fog occasionally drifted up, but blue sky and

338 CORONA AND CORONET

sunshine soon followed on this happy voyage,
and a few hours of heavy swells necessitated tak-
ing in the balcony floor. The course was laid
definitely, the hour of arrival in Yokohama an-
nounced at the start by the Commandant, whose
precision of movement is proverbial in the
French navy. Steadily the course was made,
our exact position brought to him several times
during the day. Shikotan, the big island east of
Yezo, was passed, and the southwest course for
Yokohama begun.

L' Alger is three hundred and forty-five feet
long, and of more than four thousand tons bur-
then. Wholly built of steel, she carries formida-
ble guns, and over four hundred men, of whom
about thirty-six are officers, the commandant, or
Capitain de Vaisseau, having next below him in
authority another officer, whose title is Capitain
de frigate ; next, five lieutenants, and others
down to petty officers.

Every morning reports of all kinds are handed
in to the Commandant ; for instance, that three
tons of distilled water were made yesterday —
the capacity for this manufacture being eighteen
tons, seventeen tons being now on hand; that
yesterday so many tons of coal were used, leav-
ing a definite number still in her bunkers. Since
the Alger can carry many more than now re-
main, coaling must be done at Yokohama, before

VOYAGE ON A FRENCH CRUISER 339

the voyage to Nagasaki. Toward that favorite
port Captain Boutet says his engines beat joyful
time, repeating in their throbbing, *' Nagasaki,
Nagasaki, Nagasaki" in quick iteration, while
if the orders are to proceed to Korea, sadly, in
funereal time, the machinery reluctantly grinds
out "Chemul-po — mul — po" to a dirge -like
rhythm.

Reports upon provisions were made daily, —
the amount of wine remaining ; of tafia, a sort
of brandy from sugar-cane ; of farina, which in-
cludes many cereals ; and " divers." Certain fig-
ures, one day standing eighty-four, meant that so
many meals (two each day) with wine remained ;
forty-two (one each day) with brandy, twenty-two
of cereals, thirty-five of biscuit and thirty-four
of miscellaneous articles. So it was quite plain
even to the uninitiated that supplies must be laid
in at Yokohama, if amounts for three months,
the Commandant's rule, be carried.

Illness of any one on board is at once an-
nounced, — an officer having injured his knee
was reported, while I sat there, two "petits"
officers and six men being already ill, — nine in
all. More interesting was the report of culprits
which the Captain amiably allowed me to read.
Three men were undergoing punishment, the

first " Numero, 5 1 b, Nom, S ; nature de la

punition, B. justice 138; nombre de jours, 5 ; fin

340 CORONA AND CORONET

de la punition, 22 Aotit ; motifs, Reclamation mal
fondee et occasionner du desordre dans la bat-
terie." Another is punished during five days,
because of striking "brutalement un deses cama-
rades sans motif;" and a third for "negligence
dans son travail et reponse inconvenante," dur-
ing four days.

Each watch has a lieutenant in charge, accom-
panied by a midshipman {aspirant).

Elaborate tables of exercises are made for
every hour of the morning and evening, and each
day of the week, for instance : "Exercise general
de manoeuvre," or "Exercise general ou ordinaire
du canon en alternant successivement " — these
being from 9.30 to 10.30 on the mornings (Jeudi
et vendredi).

It was curiously interesting to look over these
tables, and read that lundi the sailors get out
their clean duck, look it over and mend it ; mardi
brings inspection by the captain of "materiel,"
in other words of guns, muskets, metal columns,
brass, and for assurance, no less, that each man
in charge of its condition is at his appointed
post ; if everything is satisfactory he has an extra
ration of wine, — if not, his allowance is reduced
one ration. Mercrediy boiler inspection, and that
of knives and forks and other utensils of sailors'
tables. Eight men at each table have every
week one of their number appointed to see that

A "HAIRY AINU

VOYAGE ON A FRENCH CRUISER 341

all things shine duly ; he too is rewarded or pun-
ished according to their condition.

yeiidi, one sort of inspection goes on ; ven-
dredi another, and samedi sees general cleaning
and brass polishing for a shining dimanche.

The first Sunday in the month the Command-
ant tests the men with regard to arms and place
in battle ; the second, one hundred and ten men
with muskets are landed ; the third, inspection as
to their condition of four different companies,
one hundred men in each ; and on the fourth the
same, with sailors manning boats to show their
skill in rowing and general alacrity.

Our own war with Spain has made the public
more or less familiar with routine on men-of-war,
through numerous newspaper articles; and we
know, too, the latent force and splendid energy
of officers, ready to spring forth at a moment's
notice in mastery of every situation, perilous or
desperate ; but life to the commander of a war
vessel is certainly no sinecure, even in times of
peace, as shown even in the small bits of routine
kindly told and shown me by our host, the de-
lightfully courteous Commandant.

Indeed, if perfect system makes his own part
seem full of grace and ease and luxury, he holds
no less every movement of the huge cruiser and
its occupants in his hand for every moment of
every day. Yet his life seemed, in those peace-

342 CORONA AND CORONET

ful waters, as ideal as that of his guests, — beau-
tiful quarters, perfect service, an elaborate menu,
an autocrat unquestioned. And better than all,
the gentle heart, exquisite courtesy, and aesthetic
taste which make all life worth while.

CHAPTER XXXII

HOMEWARD BOUND

O'er the deep! — o'er the deep !

Where the whale and the shark and the swordfish sleep, —

Outflying the blast and the driving rain, —

Barry Cornwall.

Gradually the Coronet party again assem-
bled on their beautiful home. We were the first
returned wanderers — soon followed by the Cap-
tain, Mrs. Captain, and others of the ** unsci-
entific contingent," disappointed to have found
the time too short for reaching Esashi before
the ninth of August, but partly consoled by the
beauties of Miyanoshita and Nikko ; last of all,
the expedition members, unexpectedly detained
at Esashi several days, as the special steamer
had been caught in fog on its way northward.

Much hospitality on board was resumed imme-
diately, — tiffins and dinners to the Astronomer
Royal of England, Professor Turner, and Captain
Hills, Professor Deslandres, Captain Boutet, and
others ; while dinners on shore to and by the
various astronomers, interspersed by dancing and
dining on the men-of-war, followed in quick suc-
cession.

344 CORONA AND CORONET

Professor Turner as extempore poet shone in a
new light. A guest book having been presented
for his signature, he retired to a quiet spot on
the Coronet's deck and soon produced the follow-
ing impromptu lines : —

Astronomers we,

One, two, and three,

ijchiy nif san,)

Came to Japan,

Came for eclipse,

Sailed in six ships,

Trained in six trains,

Suffered from rains.

Ice, fog, and dew.

Hot weather too.

Oft dry with thirst.

But what was worst.

Cloud interfered.

No corona appeared.

Some compensations.

Coronet's rations !

Coronet's smokes !

Coronet's folks !

So the best of good wishes.

And now home, o'er the fishes.

The " edibles, bibables, and fumibles " of that
fair craft, deservedly celebrated, are not always
so immortalized.

Another interesting entertainment was given
us by a Japanese friend at the Maple Club ; and
the famous drive to Mississippi Bay was taken,
where the rice fields, now in a state of lovely

HOMEWARD BOUND 345

ripeness, showed full and graceful heads, bending
with a nation's nourishment. Some one an-
nounced in passing, that very poor Japanese par-
ents sometimes give their children partly cooked
rice, that by its subsequent swelling their grow-"
ing appetites may, for a time, be kept at bay !

Odds and ends of pleasant sight -seeing or
business were finished ; and suddenly out of the
intense heat one cool evening descended, sugges-
tive of approaching autumn, and farewell.

Mr. Christie departed for England eastward
on the Empress of China ; Professor Deslandres
went to Nikko, waiting for cooler days to begin
his homeward trip by way of India and Suez;
L' Alger swung loose from her buoy promptly to
the moment of Captain Boutet's intention, steam-
ing impressively away through the breakwater
and bound for Nagasaki, while farewells waved
from her bridge and quarterdeck so long as fig-
ures could be distinguished.

Native papers published excellent accounts of
the eclipse, one of them, given below, having
been translated by a guide, — not the "famous"
Okita. So far as I have been able to judge, Jap-
anese characters give very definite meaning to
those who read them, but unless translating is
done by a scholar, it becomes vague in the change.
This guide used verbal English very well : —

"The Professor Terao sent by the Imperial as-

346 CORONA AND CORONET

toronomical house and among foreigners Ameri-
can Professor Tod and party, French Parisian
latitudinal bureau's Mr. Drandol and party have
established the looking and surveying places
here. . . .

"The all expenses to perform this object is to
be delayed by rich Mr. James as the plan was
made by private of individual.

"Also Mrs. Tod being an astoronomer, and
coming together with Mr. Tod and helped the
work to take four more Americans, herself as en-
gineers.

"Besides the above party the photographer
Ogawa also followed taking two his men.

"The machinaries has been invented by the
same Professor and its principal object is for tak-
ing to the photograph the present sight of the
Eclipse by moving the machinary by the action
of electricity. During the time of eclipse per
every two minutes 1 50 pieces as many, and 24 or
36 as little would be expected to be taken, so
that altogether 4-500 would have been supposed
to be taken in the last.

"The machinary being composed to change
the direction by the same advancing rate as well
as the earth revolves and there is no necessity to
move the machinary's position during the eclipse,
so much so conveniently arranged having had
good result on several trial. . . .

HOMEWARD BOUND 347

... "In the evening of the 8th the cloud
got clear up, gradually, and all astoronomer felt
much easier, but on the 9th from the dawn, the
small rain began to fall but sometimes the sun
seemed through the thin part of it, while we
passed the before noon with a glad and sorrow.

" About half past one clock the sun began to
get waned from right side and about half past
two it reached to the last part from doing so and
the heaven and land became dark and showed
quite night sight. As we heard before, the fly-
ing birds got much astonishment and made a
great confusion to return to their own nests, and
showed a special sight. . . .

** The plan and pain with each surveyors dur-
ing the past a month being brought such sadful
result and nobody can tell how much those asto-
ronomers caused the distress for hopeless end
like that.

"Mrs. Tod came from far place to help her
husband's work, and during the time of so many
days she has tried to do her best through day
and night, but the weather prevented her will,
and she has forgotten herself to cry out, and we
ought to think about such learned lady's heart."

During the last days, frantic desire to pur-
chase final Japanese presents, and by no means
to forget this, that, or the other article, or person
at home, surged onward like a tidal wave. But

348 CORONA AND CORONET

Yokohama does not shine in comparison with
Kyoto for shopping, — with marked exception in
the case of the beautiful vases of Makudsu Kozan,
sometimes called **the wizard of Ota," whose
famous kilns are near the city ; and perhaps
one or two other celebrated places and artists.
Chinese tailors and shirt -makers were driven
quite wild by the sudden influx of orders.
Every man discovered the necessity for several
full suits, and affable Ah You spent most of his
available time on the Coronet's deck, untying
innumerable purple silk handkerchiefs containing
coats for trying on ; or in pinning them upon the
happy if perspiring prospective owners below, —
or in being paddled back and forth in a sam-
pan. I cannot conceive that he did anything
else whatever during those last days. He was
as much a part of the yacht scenery as quarter-
masters and awning. And a certain shirt-maker,
Yamatoya, hardly less. Really, because people
go to Japan to observe an eclipse is no valid
reason why they should not clothe themselves
extensively with fine Oriental bargains. But

" Shining and singing and sparkling glides on the glad day,
And eastward the swift-rolling planet wheels into the gray."

A final reception on board the Coronet, never
so fairylike with flags, lanterns, and groves of
bamboo, and the day of homeward sailing
dawned.

HOMEWARD BOUND 349

We aimed to clear the moorings at colors, but,
detained by a number of calls, it was nearly nine
o'clock when we started, Fuji dimly brooding,
and slowly swung off as our sails filled, home-
ward pennant streaming, down the lovely bay.
Passing the flagship, which has since made such
quick history for herself, all her white-clothed
sailors drawn up forward, our friends on bridge
and quarter - deck were waving caps and ker-
chiefs ; salutes rang out, colors dipped, the band
played "Home, Sweet Home" and "Auld Lang
Syne." And while distance widened, as fresh-
ening breezes caught added sails, the familiar
strains of " Nancy Lee " floated off to us, ethe-
realized by distance, this delicate compliment
from the Olympia being the last sound to reach
the Coronet from Japan's domain.

This voyage would see no stops at tropical
islands, no volcanoes, no lawn teas, — but the
shortest possible great-circle course through the
northern Pacific to the Golden Gate, a lonely
waste which with most favoring breezes could
not be traversed in less than three weeks, and
was likely to take much longer. A month abso-
lutely without news of the world, telegrams and
letters powerless to cheer or annoy, — a month
alone with immensity. What better chance to
make acquaintance with that stranger too seldom
met, — one's innermost self ?

350 CORONA AND CORONET

At first outer conditions were quite different
from anticipation, — light winds, then a gale,
followed by calm, with smooth blue sea; sud-
denly another fierce blow, all sail lowered, the
yacht " hove to " with such tremendous seas roll-
ing that no amount of guards were effective
to keep dishes on the table or guests in their
beds; even the Captain landed suddenly on the
floor one night during the brief interval of sleep
he allowed himself. For on this homeward voy-
age he took regular watch, in turn with sailing
master and mates.

At the i8oth meridian, picking up a second
Wednesday and reaching the same hemisphere
with our friends, the seas too seemed changed,
running high but in our own direction, slipping
heavily beneath from the stern, while fine winds
urged us forward. Many an inspiring day fol-
lowed, — shaded gray skies with an occasional
sun-gleam, now and then a streak of rich blue
showing through layers of soft cloud, — the sea
gray and green, black in its shadows, breaking
white on every crest, and hurrying eastward im-
petuously, faster than we could race. Yet like a
bird the Coronet flew over the uneasy wastes of
endless water, lifting her delicate nose scornfully
above the rollers, and taking few seas aboard.
Fortunately there was little fog ; but there were
gorgeous sunsets, and one sunrise was a rose-

HOMEWARD BOUND 351

pink pile of cirrus, deepening to ruby. Flying
meteors at night ; showers chasing each other
blackly around the horizon ; a great, impressively
moving waterspout ; porpoises leaping, and our
old friends the goonies following as usual, flying
six thousand miles and knowing not fatigue ;
sometimes a white shag, and a beautiful white
bird like a pigeon, its little scarlet feet tucked up
beneath, seeming inclined to alight, but thinking
better of it ; whales blowing, even lifting their
huge bulk high above the water — with these
diversions the days rushed on.

Another of Big Jim's stories was recalled by
the whales, — he was no longer on board, hav-
ing been left behind at Yokohama from circum-
stances over which he had not full control, so
that he existed for us but as a memory. His
tale was to the effect that he once harpooned
a whale, which immediately set out on a mad
journey, dragging the boat after him. "Why,"
said Jim, " he pulled us so fast though the water
that as you looked astern we had left a clear tun-
nel through the waves a mile or more back."

A weary little land bird like a song sparrow
fluttered to the deck one day, — presumably from
the nearest shore, there the Aleutian Islands,
more than three hundred miles northward. But
fatigue, hunger, chill, thirst, or fright proved too
much for his delicate life. Resting on the waves,

352 CORONA AND CORONET

another land bird was passed, which only looked
at us with bright inquisitive eyes as we sped past
at ten knots. A squid once came aboard under
protest. Indignant at his sudden stranding, he
proceeded to cover tl\e deck with particularly
black ink.

One morning the whole sea was alive with
exquisite spots of radiant blue fire, both on the
surface and far down into the water. For two
days this remarkable sight continued, though no
one was able to identify the startling little crea-
tures so royally arrayed. They were evidently
crustaceans, their color thrilling, iridescent, phos-
phorescent, flame-like.

Bottles, tightly corked, containing each a
record of date and exact latitude and longitude,
were thrown overboard on alternate days, that
by their drift and possible subsequent landing
additional data might be secured for the Hydro-
graphic Office regarding the direction and ve-
locity of ocean currents.

Sealskin coats and sea-rugs were much in evi-
dence on this northern voyage, with brisk walks,
and afternoon tea by the open fire ; while, dinner
over, Beethoven and Bach and Chopin filled the
evening hour.

Shanties, too, continued, several new ones tak-
ing their places in the yacht's forecastle reper-
toire, among them —

HOMEWARD BOUND 353

"ROLL THE COTTON DOWN"

From Yokohama we 're homeward bound,

Roll the cotton down,
From Yokohama we 're homeward bound,

Roll the cotton down.

2 And soon we '11 be in 'Frisco town,

3 And as we leave Yokohama behind

4 We '11 try to make the fastest time

5 And beat the record as home we go ;

6 It takes a Yankee yacht to do so.

7 So pull, my beys, from down below,

8 For up aloft the sail must go.

9 I thought I heard the chief mate say
10 Another pull and then belay.

Toward the end of September, when superb
weather came on, with sparkling blue, foam-
capped sea, high cirrus cloud and northwest
winds, the Coronet fairly leaped over the waves.

Showers still haunted the horizon, and one
evening as the moon emerged from cloud, a per-
fect lunar rainbow brightened gradually until
even the secondary bow came forth in shadowy
color, — an exquisite sight, elusive, fairy-like.

East winds, cloud, and high seas took their
turn before the coast was sighted, with reefed
sails and tons of water sweeping the deck. In
the night a blow might strike the vessel's bow
until she trembled, — then the swish and rush
of chasing water along the scuppers, like a huge

354 CORONA AND CORONET

but temporary mill-race. In spite of reefed sails
we surged onward, gleaming foam thrown off
from every side, the great, gray, mysterious sea
heaving and trembling in dim obscurity in all
directions.

During one of the last days came the sole cry
of " Sail ho ! " on the entire voyage, and a bark
was seen hastening off in rain and mist on un-
known errands.

Late in the evening of October ist a faint
whistle sounded through the fog ; and soon after
midnight, the weather clearing unexpectedly,
we were called on deck for a moving spectacle.
All the stars were out and a waning crescent
moon; and just ahead, the intense brilliance of
the Farallones light, our bow pointed directly
for its radiance.

No longer could the faithful owner and Cap-
tain of the Coronet be gayly termed a summer
yachtsman ; he had fairly earned his title of
skilled and experienced deep-sea navigator, if
only from this splendid course through trackless
waters of the northern Pacific. The two courses
from San Francisco to Yokohama and back, as
shown on the chart reproduction, make a pretty
smooth navigation curve, counting ten thousand
eight hundred and seventy miles, — the home-
ward voyage being within fifty miles of the
shortest possible course.

HOMEWARD BOUND 355

Heartfelt congratulations from every one on
board to the trusty navigator, who bore his
honors so modestly, — while coffee and sand-
wiches by the blazing fire at i a. m. celebrated
this triumphant land-fall.

Before noon the cabin was buried deep in long-
stemmed crimson and yellow roses, fragrant
violets, carnations, maidenhair ferns — the vases
were too few to hold them ; we lunched and
dined in a bower. Friends poured in, reporters
poured in, invitations poured in. The curiously
brilliant colors upon hats, the peculiar sleeves,
all so different from things prevailing six months
before, were oddly interesting. Hills, vividly
green in April, now showed sober brown. Sun-
shine was continual. The great cliffs of the
Golden Gate were more superb than we remem-
bered them, the miles of pathless white sand-
dunes as mysteriously, weirdly attractive as be-
fore.

But alas, and alas ! good-bys to the Coronet
were creeping nearer and nearer. What though
the luxurious private car Buenaventura awaited
us — farewells to Captain Crosby, faithful An-
drew, and the sailors, three dips and a salute as
we left her side extinguished all emotions other
than unmitigated homesickness, and genuine re-
gret (on the part of one or two) that we might
not go with her round the Horn.

356

CORONA AND CORONET

Halfway across to Oakland a last sight of her
gleaming sides was caught between two islands.
The ensign and both signals dipped again, three
times ; her owner and his guests stood with un-
covered heads as the little brass cannon spoke a
last good-by ; and then a certain mistiness, not
wholly of the sea, enshrouded her, the white
sides grew bluish in morning haze, the big ferry-
boat ploughed on, and the Japan cruise of the
Coronet was a thing of the past.

" Love, good-night, must thou go ?
When the day and the night need thee so !
All is well J speedeth all to his rest."

" Taps."
[Extinguish lights.]

rf^=^^^

4=^^

#-n^-

CHAPTER XXXIII

BACK TO AN ARIZONA COPPER MINE

Such is the patriot's boast, where'er we roam,

His first, best country ever is at home.

Goldsmith.

" BiSBEE washed away by a cloud-burst."
Tliis cheerful headline, in letters much taller
than necessary, on the first page of the San
Francisco papers, had greeted our arrival from
the Orient. Such was the reward of our search
through the daily press to discover who were the
actual nominees for President, and how the coun-
try at large regarded its two choices. Since at
Bisbee, Arizona, is located a famous copper-mine
with costly machinery, in which our host, the
Coronet's captain, had far more than a general
interest, and since the town is merely an out-
come of the mine, its houses owned by the com-
pany, its inhabitants the underground workers
with their superintendent, doctor, clergyman,
and librarian, the washing away of his whole
community was not only rather startUng, but
very moving to the Captain's emotions.

For a day or two telegrams had failed to get
through, but at last the welcome message arrived

358 CORONA AND CORONET

from the superintendent, " Bisbee safe — no one
killed." And when, as soon as possible after
necessary business was finished in San Francisco,
we found ourselves ensconced in the Buenaven-
tura, and rolling over the arid deserts of southern
California, the probable condition of the "works"
was in the minds of the company almost as much
as in that of the Captain.

In the Yuma desert a bush is not an incident
merely, but an epoch. Miles of sand and reddish
soil stretch away to barren mountains whose
rough outline and scarred sides were made beau-
tiful and ethereal by exquisite shadows and lights
under a pale-blue quivering atmosphere. The
thermometer stood at ioo° F. in the car, — a
rather lower point than usual in this region ; but
the air was so dry that it was by no means
unbearable. Dust, however, sifted in through
double windows, and powdered the little parlor.

A tempting mirage often appeared, — tantaliz-
ingly perfect presentments of ponds reflecting
the hills, even hummocks of grass and rough
rocks along the shore. Several times we should
have been sure actual water lay at hand, except
that it rose and flooded the country around some
little station perhaps just passed, whose actual
pitiful dryness had been, five minutes before, a
sad contrast to the falsely rippled surface of that
surrounding lake, now lapping gently its wood

BACK TO AN ARIZONA COPPER MINE 359

platform. Perhaps it was some similar appear-
ance which caused the godfathers of the region
to name the stations with cruel inappropriateness
Sweet Water, Bubbling Spring, Running Brook,
and the like, — - pathetic sarcasm. So far as con-
cerns fertility or moisture the whole scene might
well have been a landscape in the moon.

But I trust there are no tramps in that deso-
lately celestial region. The whole country in this
earthly counterpart became more and more in-
fested with that undesirable parasite. A gypsy
camp, passed toward nightfall with flickering fire
and picturesque figures about it, was decorative ;
but tramps cannot, by any possible stretch of
imagination, be ranked in that category. They
clung to the trucks beneath, stealing rides of a
few miles at imminent risk to life and limb ; they
climbed to the roof of the Buenaventura, and
were continually dislodged, even from our own
observation platform. At every station beggars
whined for food or money, the climax being
reached at Yuma, on the banks of the turbid
Colorado, where Indians, Mexicans, strange dia-
lects, and mosquitoes swarmed in the hot even-
ing air.

Leaving the Southern Pacific the following
day, the Buenaventura was attached to a special
engine for fifty or sixty miles' run (on the Ari-
zona and South Eastern, a railroad belonging to

36o CORONA AND CORONET

the mining company) across a curious country, to
Bisbee in the extreme southeast corner of the
territory. The landscape, only less bare than
the desert, showed yucca and century plants,
varieties of flowering bushes here and there, and
brilliant blossoms among the sparse gra^, — the
mesa covered with cattle, and bounded by superb
purple mountains on every side.

Riding on the engine was attractive, but upon
the cow-catcher even more so, — a species of lux-
ury seldom allowed on through lines. Here, com-
fortably established on cushions, our feet resting
upon the timbers joining in a point below for
convincing argument with obstacles upon the
track, the whole wide scene was most advanta-
geously viewed.

But the track seemed to be, of all the windy
mesa, the favorite reclining ground of herds, and
too much slowing down out of regard for our
safety became necessary, as the cattle calmly
persisted in remaining until the engine was act-
ually upon them ; so after a few miles we reluc-
tantly abandoned our seat on the pilot. Then
with all lawful notice in shrill whistling, cows had
to take theii- chances. Bleaching skeletons be-
side the track attested an occasional insensibility
to warning ; and a ruined town raised despairing
chimneys to the silent sky, its adobe walls roof-
less and crumbling, still known as Charleston.

BACK TO AN ARIZONA COPPER MINE 361

Barren and more barren grew the country, —
the soil more brilliantly red ; then the track en-
tered a narrow canon, constantly more contracted
as high mountains crept closer together. Whiffs
of smoke appeared, tiny adobe houses straggled
up steep red hillsides, themselves scarcely differ-
ent in color ; then tall chimneys and pipes spout-
ing greenish vapor became frequent, and the car
stopped. Tiers of houses clung to canon walls,
winding pathways connecting them wherever
foothold could be seized, each as rough as the
washed bed of a rapid torrent ; across an innocent
looking stream at bottom of the gorge a bridge
leading to the intact and uninjured works ; an
enormous smoke-conductor eight feet in diameter
and seven hundred feet long, lying at a steep
angle up the mountain and pouring its incessant
volume of sulphur smoke off, far above the little
town, — this was Bisbee. No growing thing, not
even the hardy cottonwoods, can live in the sul-
phur-laden air, even with the worst of it now car-
ried off by the great flue.

This increase in sulphur, though greatly re-
lieved, brought death to the few shrubs of Bis-
bee, and the air cannot, even now, especially in
certain directions of the wind, be called favorable
to agriculture.

As the Buenaventura lay comfortably side-
tracked in the unique village, Mexican women.

362 CORONA AND CORONET

picturesque in black febosa, their beautiful dark
eyes looking at us curiously from swarthy faces,
flitted by, and uncounted nationalities among the
miners passed and repassed. We found later
that twenty-two nations were represented (nearly
everything but Mongolian), among them Eng-
lish, Spanish, Indian, South American, Welsh,
Cornish, Irish, African, Norwegian, Swedish,
Russian, Italian, Polish, Portuguese — and that
fifteen languages were spoken.

Over seven hundred men are on the pay-roll,
making, with their families, a population of about
three thousand, all of whom are personally
known to the management, which exercises so
much kindly authority that Bisbee is an ideal
mining community. Lawlessness is checked at
once. A large store supplies at reasonable prices
all needs, from white silk parasols and sets of
silver-plated ware — both greatly in demand —
to Navajo blankets, Mexican saddle-bags, and
steeple-crowned hats. Two physicians, employed
by the company, look after the general health ; a
devoted Welsh clergyman nourishes their souls ;
a fine library and reading-room are skillfully ad-
ministered by a graduate of Pratt Institute ; and
the manager with his family are the good angels
of the region.

It is a unique spot, the works with their pipes
and puffing steam and smoke, coke heaps and

BACK TO AN ARIZONA COPPER MINE 363

slag piles the most pervasive element of the nar-
row canon, while hundreds of feet above, on all
sides, rise steep mountains, red, barren, mighty.

The trickling stream can without a moment's
warning become a devastating torrent. Just be-
fore the Coronet landed, that cloud-burst in the
mountains above, of which the papers told, had
raced down the valley and Bisbee was nearly en-
gulfed. Water rushed into the Copper Queen
mine, over the floor of the works, and only
stopped short of serious damage. No lives were
lost, as the manager had telegraphed, but in a
town farther on six or seven persons were killed.
Hailstones broke half the Bisbee windows, even
denting and riddling iron roofs.

Of the sudden, overwhelming power of cloud-
bursts we were destined to see a thrilling exam-
ple before the few days' visit was over.

At first sight one would say, •' Machinery, arid
precipices, sulphur fumes, no vegetation — ter-
rible ! " But a fascination not to be explained
grows upon the stranger, partly understood as
day after day passes in the little town, — fourth
in importance and size in Arizona, a territory as
large as New York and New England together.

The manager's pretty house stands at the top
of three or four stone terraces, upon which by
constant care a thick mat of Bermuda grass was
green ; oleanders were still living, and a vine or

364 CORONA AND CORONET

two over the piazza, while century plants and
yucca, quite in their native habitat, gave an at-
tractive air to the pleasant home where so much
kindly hospitality kept open house.

Everybody was anxious to see the great mine ;
and in the afternoon the men of our " party of
notables," as the Bisbee paper put it, charm-
ingly arrayed in blue overalls from the store, the
ladies in brown linen, boarded the elevator, and
dropped into four hundred and twenty feet of
darkness. Passing each level, an electric light
gleamed for a moment. Once at the bottom,
each guest with a candle investigated in Indian
file the long corridors cut in the rock, through
which little tracks are laid for cars to take out
the ore. On both sides were rivulets of water
from the late flood, and the procession proceeded
cautiously, tiny candles flickering hither and
thither in the turnings, as we followed our
guides, the glimmer of whose lights, far ahead,
showed the way. Stepping aside for filled cars
to pass, while slowly trickling drops from above
tinkled into pools below, soft white fungus cling-
ing here and there to the walls, we kept on, see-
ing occasionally a rare bit of lovely light blue
crystal, from drippings rich in ore.

When the Copper Queen was first opened the
ore was very beautiful, abounding in crystals of
sapphire blue called azurite, in delicate green.

BACK TO AN ARIZONA COPPER MINE 365

and malachite. Very rich, too, it proved, con-
taining between twenty-five and sixty per cent,
pure copper. But as mining went on, this partic-
ular variety grew more scarce, as well as bits of
native copper.

But with the more prosaic material now mined
the Copper Queen is still very rich, and not less
than thirty tons of pure copper are shipped daily.
In the ore are found not only sulphur, but traces
of gold and silver, silica, lead, iron, zinc, anti-
mony, arsenic, and other materials, all of which
are blown off, or sent off, or turned into slag,
except the bits of gold and silver. Never less
than eight tons of pure copper average from one
hundred tons of rough ore, while the early blue
averaged forty, — another rich variety being jet
black.

Walking across a plank over an apparently
bottomless pit, and reaching a chamber too low
to stand upright, candles held close revealed a
fairy grotto. The roof and sides were of softest
green moss like velvet, so delicate that a finger-
touch brushed it away — ahd every leaflet of rich
copper. Another cave, but vast and mysterious,
was explored. Lofty and full of superb stalac-
tites like alabaster, small apartments at the sides
glitteringly splendid in the moving lights — this
magnificent cavern, calm in the undisturbed re-
pose of centuries, lay in the mountain's heart un-

366 CORONA AND CORONET

known, until a sudden blast accidentally opened
an entrance to its gloomy wealth.

Impressive as were all the underground rooms
and passages, and the ceaseless energy of labor
above and below, the works at night were in-
comparably more so.

After " roasting " in a sort of rotary machine,
the rough ore is dumped into four great furnaces
together with a lot of coke (in the largest fur-
nace two hundred and thirty tons of ore go in
with fourteen of coke), where it is burned until
"done," becoming liquid enough to run off. It
is then two materials, — matte , containing copper,
and useless slag. The latter, being lighter, rises,
and is led out of the furnace at a higher level
than the matte, which pours out its red-hot
stream below. At this stage the matte is about
fifty per cent, copper, thirty-five per cent, sul-
phur, and fifteen per cent. iron.

The matte left to cool is later put through a
second furnace, from which it pours in streams of
red-hot liquid fiame into the two great Bessemer
furnaces. In other words it is "Bessemerized"
for about forty-five minutes, air being forced
through it by a pressure of sixteen to twenty
pounds to the inch. The sound is like a hun-
dred engines together, and the flame, as it shoots
up and out into the hood for carrying off fumes,
is all shades of blue and violet and shining yel-

BACK TO AN ARIZONA COPPER MINE 367

low, the swarthy figures in attendance knowing
instantly by the color when all sulphur has gone.
The enormous, seething caldron is finally tipped
over, now a white-hot, indescribably glowing
mass, the ''cream" (slag) runs off the top, — a
stream once more of liquid fire, pours itself into
great vats on wheels, and is rolled away. When
all the slag, chiefly iron, is poured off, oblong
pots on wheels come in on the same track, re-
ceive the copper stream, now ninety-nine and
three tenths per cent, pure, tumbling down in a
cascade of glory, and roll off, — each bar, when
cooled, weighing three hundred pounds, each
heat usually yielding thirteen bars.

Men at work in the glare stick iron spikes
continually through holes in the back of the
converter, that passages for air-blasts may not
become clogged, and when the red-hot or white-
hot streams light up their faces, while showers of
sparks fly off in wide-spreading masses, the effect
is superbly weird.

The great Bessemers are lined with a sort of
clay, which is constantly watched, lest it burn
too thin, — too near the iron. When this hap-
pens it is wheeled away for the lining to be
burned out. Six are always in use — two full
of the copper, and four being burned out with
radiantly lovely colors.

But something more, no less magnificent, was

368 CORONA AND CORONET

yet to be seen. The slag, in its great iron pots
on wheels, is run upon a small open train out-
side, men standing about amid the pots of red-
hot slag, as spectacular as a scene in a theatre, and
an engine, the " Little Queen," hastens off with
it upon a tiny track to the slag-heap, a quarter-
mile away. The molten material may have
cooled a bit on the surface during its journey,
flecks of dark crust dotting the red, but as each
pot is dumped over the edge, to the valley one
hundred feet below, it strikes the brink of the
precipice and breaks or flows apart into a thou-
sand semi-liquid fragments, which unite again in
a glowing mass of incandescence, a rushing cas-
cade of fire. The whole scene about these works
at night is quite beyond adequate description.

Horseback rides by day over the barren moun-
tains are as distinctive in their way. The ani-
mals are so trained to peculiarities of the region
that they dash along at full canter up the dry
beds of streams, along trails where a man could
scarcely find footing, or straight up open hill-
sides to gain a short cut, leaving the washed-out
roads to their own devices.

Bisbee itself is five thousand three hundred
feet above the sea, and Juniper Flat, where a mem-
orable horseback ride was taken, leads one up and
ever up, seven thousand five hundred feet in
elevation. Away from the works and their sul-

BACK TO AN ARIZONA COPPER MINE 369

phur the air is extraordinarily clear and invig-
orating, the views extremely grand, over piled-
up masses of red mountain peaks, with chasing
lights and shadows and ineffable blue haze. At
the divide the road descends toward Tombstone,
and the view down the canon was peculiarly
beautiful, — even without vegetation of any sort
except an occasional cactus, or the "mahogany
of Arizona" (manzanita), an infrequent juniper
or cypress, and ubiquitous yucca.

A solitary Indian on a mule, above us, was
picking his way still upward. We seemed already
perched upon the very backbone of the world,
but a still wider range opened a few feet beyond,
— far into the sunny Sulphur Springs Valley,
with a bit of the blue San Jose Mountains of
Mexico peeping over, and the Cananeas in the
distance. Lookout Mountain, where scouts or
sentinels used to watch for Indians during the
Apache troubles, was sharp and distinct ; Dixie
Canon and a dozen imposing peaks filled the
horizon, — a tumble of mountains not unlike that
seen from Pike's Peak.

A file of mules laden with firewood from some
distant canon passed us, driven by Mexicans.

Coming back to Bisbee, an exciting race with
a mountain thunderstorm took place between
elements and riders, — the black cloud and rush-
ing drops barely behind all the way ; but thanks

370 CORONA AND CORONET

to our sure footed-horses in their wild homeward
gallop, the car was reached just as the first drops
fell.

Down the stream from Bisbee, out on the free,
breezy mesa, cantering without regard to road
or boundary possesses a new charm all its own.
There, breathing for the first time seems legiti-
mately accomplished. Indefinite miles in extent,
it is inclosed only by blue Mexican mountains of
San Jose and the Sierra Madres on the horizon,
the nearer Mule Mountains, and toward the north
the Huachuca, where an army post is stationed
among canons of much luxuriance. In the vast
plain are two small . hills, one called Deer Point,
where not long before a stage was held up by
cowboys, and two men killed ; farther, the Look-
out Mountain, already once seen, with its strange
castellated top. Cattle roamed at will over the
great plain, now and then succumbing to thirst,
as occasional bleaching skeletons and skulls sug-
gested ; coyotes ran ahead of us, jack rabbits
and "cotton tail," and flocks of quail, among the
scanty vegetation.

Yucca, and the mescal, from which a sort of
whiskey is made, were the chief plants, but mes-
quite and bits of fluffy clematis, and more or less
ocatillo-wtr^ seen, — a curiously branching shrub
covered with closely growing leaves. Settlers
cut stakes from it for fences, but in the spring

BACK TO AN ARIZONA COPPER MINE 371

it suddenly sprouts, and lo ! the most prosaic
is possessed of a beautiful hedge full of scarlet
blossoms. A white pillar marks the Mexican
boundary, sole suggestion of proprietorship in
the whole wide scene.

Another race with a storm, majestically sweep-
ing up and completely hiding the Huachuca
Mountains in its blue-black shadow, brought us
back at twilight just in time to escape a fierce
pelting with hailstones, and to see the fiery cas-
cade of slag from below, leaping down the pre-
cipice in whirling sparks and flames, like molten
lava, in a redly widening stream.

Once a storm had the advantage, — Arizona
cloud-bursts were amply illustrated. A short
ride down the stream, and a dark cloud seemed
suddenly spread quite over the canon ; a few
drops of rain fell, and hastily fording the shallow
brook we rode the horses for shelter into a
rough shed on the other side. In less than two
minutes a wild downpour had shut out the sight
of everything in a wall of descending water, and
the innocent brook was a mad swirl of turbid,
angry waves, — a foot, two feet, three feet deep,
widening as we watched, deepening with every
breath beyond a possibility of recrossing. The
shed was slight shelter, open on three sides ;
hail and rain drove completely through it, while a
small ravine between shed and house turned into

372 CORONA AND CORONET

another rushing stream which in a moment could
not have been crossed. Fastening the horses
hurriedly, it was the last possible opportunity to
jump over the second stream on two or three
stones still left uncovered. Scarcely had we
gained the house when the last stone disap-
peared, and the frail dwelling on a tiny point of
solid land was almost surrounded by yellow-red,
deafening, foaming torrents, constantly more furi-
ous, and closer to the little porch with each mo-
ment. Rain still came down in sheets — above
and on every side a watery wilderness — with a
deafening roar.

In an hour the sky cleared. In another, the
smaller stream had shrunk sufficiently to expose
one or two stones, on which with the aid of a
board from the good people who sheltered us we
crossed, proceeding carefully on foot along the
steep bank of the principal stream, still not less
than twenty feet wide, finally reaching the rail-
road bridge at the village and the car. White
hailstones lay about in heaps, and the canon was
an imposing sight.

Washouts detained the Buenaventura for a
day or two, which started at last with consider-
able caution and slight speed. The whole South-
ern Pacific road was so washed and flooded that
great lakes lay along the track, and the car rolled
about as if we were once more at sea. The entire

BACK TO AN ARIZONA COPPER MINE 373

country was soft and muddy and spongy. Poor
and squalid adobe villages on one side — on the
other for an instant a distant view of the southern
end of the Rocky Mountains, snow-covered and
gleaming, and onward from El Paso we rushed,
as if in very truth the train did

..." lap the miles
And lick the valleys up."

Quaint old San Antonio; the lush forests in
parts of Texas with birds still singing and armies
of butterflies fluttering like brown leaves in au-
tumnal gales; woods hung with solemn gray
moss ; the cotton fields and sugar plantations
of Louisiana, its low-drooping trees and water-
plants; New Orleans with its combination of
modern cleanliness and beauty, ancient life and
old French charm ; the great Georgia cotton
fields all in fluffy white ; the distant Blue Ridge
and changing foliage of Virginia ; Washington
welcomes, and more autumnal glories ; farther
welcomes in New York — with these the story
of the Amherst Eclipse Expedition draws to its
close.

But reunions of the participants have not been
infrequent, and during the winter following, the
freight steamer came through Suez with the ap-
paratus ; the Ainu collections were opened and
displayed in scenes far different from those
which witnessed their gathering ; in February

374 CORONA AND CORONET

the Coronet reached her nest in Tebo's Basin, one
hundred and fourteen days from San Francisco,
completing her fourteen months* cruise of forty-
five thousand miles.

The pink velvet has been restored to her guest-
room walls, and the entire interior is refitted
and furnished after her wanderings. One of the
bottles, thrown overboard from the Coronet on
the 27th of September, 1896, in latitude 43° N.,
longitude 135° 25' W., came ashore at Ross Bay
Beach, Victoria, on the ist of April, 1897; and
his Imperial Majesty, the Emperor of Japan, in
recognition of founding the Esashi library and
services in the cause of education in northern
Yezo, has conferred upon Professor Todd the
imperial sake cup with its famous " go-shichi-no-
kiri" crest in gold, and an accompanying docu-
ment or diploma.

The heavens remain ; sun and moon still
pursue their steady cycle, and the astronomer
patiently waits and wftrks for still another
eclipse. His life is a consecration to the best
and highest. His joy over one new fact wrested
from sun or star is more than the mere mer-
chant's over an additional fortune made. He
must possess the potentiality of a hero, the calm
of a philosopher, even the uplift of martyrs of
old. What wonder that he lives in startling
nearness to the gigantic forces of nature and

BACK TO AN ARIZONA COPPER MINE 375

their inconceivable operation ? That in his clear
eyes personalities, luxuries, and fashions, hates
and envies, seem very small, and farther away
than the stars he loves ?

He often knows " the finer grace of unfulfilled
designs ; " but his hope springs perennial.

In cosmic spaces shadows cannot fail to fall,
and the solid earth must now and then intercept
them. Somewhere they will be caught, benefi-
cently falling through unclouded skies.

INDEX

Adams, Governor, 94.

Adams, U. S. S., 56, 103, 123.

Adriance, Dr., v.

Ai (trout), 192.

Ainu (or Aino), 256, 259, 292 ; belief
about eclipses, 321 ; collections, 259,
291 ; dread of death and ghosts, 315 ;
fishermen, 282 ; hairy, 159, 244, 255,
293 ; house, first visited, 266, 267 ;
legends, 264, 287 ; men, 268 ; salu-
tation, 301 ; women, 268.

Aioina Kamui (Ainu Adam), 264.

Akadama (elm), 298, 299.

Aki province, 223.

Akkeshi, Yezo, 158, 160, 275, 324.

Albatross, 30, 33.

Aldebaran, 127.

Aleutian Islands, 351.

Alexander, Professor, vii, 108.

Alfred " the Great," 23, 132, 185.

Algaroba (Hawaiian tree), 46, 47, 109.

L' Alger, French cruiser, 149, 160,235,
236, 277, 335, 336, 338, 345-

Aloha (Hawaiian farewell), 94, 124,
131-

Alpha Centauri, 126.

Amakura (heaven), 138.

Amherst, 106, 107, 205 ; cheer, 14, 22,
124 ; College Glee Club, 14; colors,
33> 237 ; preparation for expedition,
277, 278, 279.

Amur river region, xxi.

Anatomy of Wit, 327.

Ancient Mariner, 125.

Andrew, mate of Coronet, 129, 231, 232.

Antares, 135.

Aomori, 143, 171, 231.

" A I " (private car), 15, 23, 32.

Apache troubles, 370.

Armstrong, General, 107.

Astrology (in Hawaii), 54.

Astronomer Royal of England, 160,
343-

Atlantic Monthly, The, viii.

Atsu (elm fibre), 298.

Awaji, Inland Sea, 217, 227.

Baden-Pow^ell, Sir George, xix.
Baker, Mount, 20.
Baldwin Home, 117.
Ball, Sir Robert, 241.

Bandaisan eruption, 143.

Baseball in Yokohama, 180.

Bausch and Lomb, opticians, 278.

Bear killing, 309.

Bearskins, 260.

Beauty of Glazenwood, 26.

Benten, Japanese goddess, 218.

Beppu, Inland Sea, 226.

Bessemers (at copper mine), 368.

Betelgeux, 127.

Bisbee, 357, 360 flf.

Bishop, Bernice Pauahi, Museum,

53 ; Hall of Science, 107 ; Hon.

Charles R., 53, 105, 107, 108; Mrs.

Bernice Pauahi, 53.
Black Current (Kurosiwa), xxxiv, 137.
Blonde Frigate, 64.
Blow-holes, 75, 79.
Bluflf, the, at Yokohama, 140.
Board of Health (Hawaiian), 112, 113,

114, 116, 120.
Boki (Hawaiian chief), 104.
Bonita (pilot boat), 29.
Boutet, Captain, 235, 277, 280, 334,

336, 338, 339, 343. 345-
Braemer, S. S., g.
Brashear, Mr., optician, 276.
Buddha, Kamakura and Nara, 209.
Buenaventura, private car, 358, 359,

361, 373-
Bund, the, at Yokohama, 140, 149.
Burckhalter, Mr., astronomer, 160.
Burke, 254.

Burton, Professor, viii.
Byron, Lord, 64.

Cananeas mountains, 369.

Cape Horn (of Japan), 234.

Captain's birthday, 133.

Cascade mountains, 20 ; tunnel, 18.

Castle, Hon. W. R., 109; Mrs. S. N.,

109.
Caves, burials in, 64.
Celestial Love, The, 229.
Century Magazine, The, viii.
Chabot Observatory, 160.
Chambers, 241.

Cha-no-you (tea ceremony), 151, 152.
Characters, Chinese, 242.
Chess, 31, 131, 232.
Chicago, 15.

378

INDEX

Chief's journal, 229.

China, treaty with, 225 ; war with,

154-
Chinese, the, 62 ; compradores, 153 ;

war, mementos of, 258.
Chipkommoi (sun), 309.
Christie (W. H. M., Astron. Royal),

160, 345.
Church (Central Union at Honolulu),

103 ; (Native, at Honolulu), 56.
Cingalese at Grand Hotel, 179.
Cleghorn, Mrs., 64.
Clarke, Miss, 242.
Clock, driving, ri; glycerine, 12;

sand, 12.
Cloisonne, 178, 201, 202.
Coleridge, 125.

College, Agricultural, at Sapporo, 272.
" Colors," 150, 349.
Commutator, electric, 11.
Cook, Captain, 63, 64.
Copper, process of purifying, 366, 367.
Copper Queen mine, 363, 365.
Cormorant fishing, 188, 189.
Cornwall, Barry, 343.
Corona, xiii, xiv, xviii-xx, 8-10, 160,

2775 285, 320, 323-25.
Coronet, 4, 8-10, 13, 24-31, 45, 47, 56-

59, 103, 134, 182 ; built when, xx ;

library, 36 ; log, 6 ; melody, 150,

349 ; saloon, 3 ; signal letters, 40.
Costume in Japan, i6q.
Courlon, Captain Le Bouleur de, 277.
Crehore, Mrs., viii.
Crosby, Captain, 2, 24, 355.
Cross, Southern, 47, 123, 126, 133.
Cryptomeria (Japanese cedar), 186,

194.

Daikichi, 225.

Daikon (radish), 165, 173, 230.

Damien, Father, 119.

Dan-no-Ura, 224.

Dashi (float or car), 207.

Dauntless, the, xxiv, 3.

Deer Point, 370.

Deslandres, Professor, 160, 277, 280,
330, 332, 337. 343, 345-

Detroit, U. S. S., xxxh, 149.

Diamond Head, Honolulu, 40, 47, 124.

Dickinson, Emily, 58.

Dixie Caiion, 370.

Dodge, Mr., 59, 60.

Dole, Rev. D., 105; Mrs., 49, 50;
President, vii, 45, 105, 109, 123.

Dole Hall, 105.

Doshisha (College), 204, 241.

Dryden, 68, 97.

Dumas, Midshipman, 277.

Dun, His Exc. Edwin, American min-
ister, 169.

Diinkards, 22.

Dutton, "Brother," 118.

Dutlon, Captain, 61.

Earthquake wave, 251.

Eclipse, apparatus, 5; beginning, 320;

phenomena, 322 ; selecting station,

XX, 158; tracks, xiv.
Elepaio (Hawaiian bird), 86.
Elm fibre as thread, 298.
El Monte, 25.
El Paso, 323.
Emerson, 125.
Emerson, Dr., 114, 117.
Emperor of Japan, 3, 144 ; message,

331; portrait, 238-39, 284, 331; un-
veiling of, 331.
Empress of Japan, 144.
Era of Meiji, 140.
Eri (neckerchiefs), 213.
Eruptions (in Hawaii), 74; (1868), 72,

7s;,(i88o-8i), 73, 75; (1892), 74.
Esashi, 158, 160, 171, 217, 234, 241,

243, 252, 256, 271, ff. 375.
Etchuya Inn, 258, 261, 262.
Expedition, 35, 36, 170, 171, 229, 234,

236-40.
Expeditions of different nations, 160.

Farallones, 29, 354.

Field, Kate, 63, 97, 98, 100, loi, 103.

Fiji Islands, 149.

Fisheries in Yezo, 233.

Flag-ship U. S. S. Olympia, 149.

Flathead River, 17.

Floats, Kyoto, 207, 283.

Floriponda, 82, 84.

Flying- fish, 34.

Folk lore story, 93.

Formosa, Governor of, 161.

Fort Peck Indian reservation, 15.

Fortune-telling in Yezo, 314.

Fourth of July at Yokohama, 179.

Francis, Mr., v, vi.

Friedlander, Dr., 59.

Fuji, 137, 138, 140, 161, 182-84, 186,

268, 349.
Fujino tea-house, 225.
Fujita (Hundred Steps), 148.

Gaisen (dance), 167.

Gardens, Imperial, 161.

Gay, 264.

Geisha (Gifu), 190 ; melody, 191.

Gerrish, Mr., v.

Geta (shoes), 155.

Gifu, 18S.

Go-downs, 246.

Goerz, optician, 278.

Gohei (paper prayer), 218, 244.

Golden Gate (San Francisco), xxxvii,

28, 349, 355 ; (Uyeno), 174.
Golden Pavilion, 198.
(loonies, 30, 32, 33, 39.
Government, Japanese, 156, 159.
Great Northern Railway, vii, 14, 16.
Guest book, 3^4 ; at Fujita, 147.
Gundlach Optical Co., 278.

INDEX

379

Hachinoye, 143.

Hakodate, 159, 170, 171, 237, 243, 253,

254-57-

Hara, His Exc'y, Governor of Hok-
kaido, vii, 233, 275.

Harte, Bret, 155.

Hawaii, annexation, 45 ; bride, 92 ;
climate, no; flag, 122, journey, 68 ;
language, 44 ; leaving, 95 ; lepers,
III ; melodies, 44, 47, 54 ; minister
from, 46 ; politics, 45 ; relics, 53 ;
roadsides, 83 ; sea coast, 65 ; sing-
ing, 100 ; spirit of modern, 87, 109 ;
volcanoes, 58 ; women, 54, 56.

Hawaiians, 42, 122, 199.

Hawthorne, 211, 287.

Hayashi, Mr., vii.

Heijo, 2IO.

Helmets of feathers (Hawaii), 91.

Hemans, Mrs., 241.

H. Henry VI., 188.

Henry Gandell's Leap, 75.

Herbert, 181.

Herod, Mr., vii, 170.

Hibachi (brazier), 188, 206. .

HiU, President, Great Northern, vii, 14.

Hills, Captain, 160, 343.

Hilo, Hawaii, 73, 82-84.

Himiongami, 213.

Hiroya, Mr., 290, 335.

Hohei-kwan, Sapporo, 258, 261.

Hokkaido, 273, 274, 294; governor of,
233, 27s ; observations in, 157 ; oys-
ter beds and fisheries in, 233 ; wealth
of, 282.

Holoku (Hawaiian dress), 42, 6i.

Hongo, 250.

Honolulu, 3, 12, 4o-43» 46, S7i 66, 90,
104, no, 129.

Horn, Cape, 2, 4, 24, io6, 129 ; of Ja-
pan, 234.

Horseback riding, 49, 285.

Horses in Yezo, 286.

Hosmer, President, Oahu Coll., 107-9.

Huachuca mountains, 370, 371.

Hualalai, 95.

Hula (dancing girls), 75.

Hundred Steps, tea-house, 147.

Hurbin, Captain, 277.

Ideographs, 145.

leie (vine in Hawaii), 82.

Inao (god-sticks), 297, 302,3x3.

Independent, The, viii.

Indians, 16.

Inland Sea, xzzii, xzxiii, 159, 180, 217,

229, 241.
Instruments, 8, 9, 133, 078.
loi (Hawaiian flower), 89.
Ishikawa-maru, 284.
Ito, Count, 225.
Iwalani, S. S., 119, 121.
Iwate, prefecture, 143; branch of Ked

Cross, 144.

Jacula Prudentum, 181.

James, A. C, iii, v, xxiii, 21, 346; D.

W., vi, 3; Mrs. A. C, v, 36.
Janssen, xviii.
Japanese, 62; alphabet, 211; dinner,

165 ; landscape gardeners, 84, i6i ;

national anthem, 150, 154, 239, 330.
Jiji,.i44-

Jinrikisha rides, 140, 144.
Jonson, B., 327.
Juniper Flat, 369.

K D J B (Coronet signal letters). 40.

Kaahumanu, 55.

Kaawaloa, 63, 97.

Kabayama, Mr., vii, 205.

Kabuka, 269, 270.

Kago (palanquin), 225, 285.

Kagura (heavenly music), 213.

Kahuku, Hawaiian town, 72.

Kahuna (witch doctor), 76.

Kaiana, Hawaiian chief, 51.

Kailua, Hawaiian town, 51, 63, 99;

relics, 94.
Kaiulani, Princess, 45.
Kalakaua, King, 3, 55, 74, 95.
Kalaupapa, old town on Molokai, 120.
Kalawao, 120.
Kalo (vegetable), 51.
Kamaishi, town in Japan, 246, 250.
Kamakura, Daibutsu at, 210.
Kamehameha I., 51, 53. 74» 93> 94> 99*
Kamehameha II., 100; IV., 55.
Kamogawa, river in Kyoto, 197.
Kanaka, island native, 62.
Kanda, Professor, 205.
Kant, Immanuel, 128.
Kapapala, Ranch, Hawaii, 71, 89.
Kapiolani, 70; Queen Dowager, 95.
Kasuga, temple at Nara, 21 l, 212 ; god

of, 215 ; dance at, 212.
Kealake^ua Bay, 63.
Keats, 42.

Keauhou, Hawaiian town, 100.
Keopuolani, Queen, 55.
Kewalo reefs, 106.
Ki (leaves), 90.
Kidda (Ainu, for star), 309.
Kilauea, 59, 68, 70, 76, 78, 79, 89, 147.
Kilauea-iki, 81.

Kimono (Japanese dress), 142, 148.
Kimotsuki, Captain, 251, 273, 290.
Kinkasan, Japanese island, 143.
Kipling, 126.
Kitami, province of Yezo, 157, 158,

160, 170, 217, 25s, 285, 335.
Kiushiu Island, 226.
Koa, Hawaiian wood, 108.
Kobe, 159, 180, 182, 183, 184, 221,226,

228,
Kobo Daishi, 211, 213, 242.
Kochibe, Professor, 250.
Konigsberg, xviii.
Kojiki, oldest Japanese book, 294.

38o

INDEX

Kokuzo Bosatsu, god of the universe,

Maida, bombardment of, 224.

2IO.

Makai (going toward mountains), 72.

Kompira, temple, 218.

Makudsu Kozan, famous potter, 348.

Komyo, Empress, 213.

Manoa Valley, 48, 106, 109.

Kootenai River, 17.

Manono, wife of Hawaiian chief, 54.

Korea, 149, 224.

Maple Club, 161, 168.

Kori (basket), 185, 196, 262.

Marlinspike birds, 39.

Koro-pok-guru, 293, 294.

Mashika, 266.

Kotohera, Inland Sea, 218.

Matsumae, 328.

Krombi (water insect), 311.

Matsuri, 205, 283.

Kuakini, 94.

Matsuyama, 226, 227.

Kuny Chipkommoi (the moon), 309.

Matte (copper), 366, 367.

Kupapa-u (a corpse), 26.

Maui, island, 62, 102.

Kure, Inland Sea, 219.

Mauka, leaving the heights, 72.

Kurosiwa, xxxiv, 137.

Mauna Kea, 66, 89.

Kuruma, or jinrikisha, 185.

Mauna Loa, 58, 59, 60, 64, 65, 68, 71,

Kurumaya (runner), 148, 178, 189.

74, 75, 76, 86, 89.

Kushiro, Yezo province, 157.

Meiji, present era in Japan, 140, 204,

Kwanko-maru, S. S., 263, 268, 270.

252.

Kwannon, goddess, 199, 219.

Merrill, Mr. (San Francisco), vii.

Kyogen (a play), 167.

Miaki Island, 137.

Kyoto, 183, 194, 197, 200.

Mikura Island, 137.

Mila Head, xxx.

Lahaina, Hawaiian town, 62.

Millochau, M., 160.

Laiakanoe hale. Point of Mists, 48.

Mills, Consul, at Honolulu, 120.

Lanai, island, 62, 90, 93 ; veranda, 46,

Mills, President, 107.

90. 95-

Mississippi Bay, 140, 344.

Langley, Professor, xix.

Mitsui family, 144.

Lantana, 50.

Mittau, MM., 160.

La Perouse Strait, 269, 271.

Miyabe, Professor, 258.

Launfal, Sir, in.

Miyagi, 143, 248.

Lavaflows, 70, 72, 73, 74- .

Miyajima, 222, 223, 224; festival, 223.

Legation, United States, in Tokyo,

Miyako-maru, S. S., 216,217, 218, 220,

156, 170.

225, 226.

Lei (wreath), 44, 46, 47, 62, 75, 90, 91,

Miyanoshita, 343.

123.

Moats, in Tokyo, 176; in Kyoto, 200.

Lepers, III ; band, 115, 116; expense

Mokuaweoweo (crater), 58, 68, 74.

of, 113 ; female quarters, 119 ; horses

Molokai, Hawaiian island, 40, 62, iii,

for, 121; marriages of, 112; seclu-
sion of, 112 ; suffering among, 120.

112, 113, 114.

Mombetsu, Japanese town, 238.
Monocacy, U. S. S., vi.

Leprosy, anaesthetic, 117; evidences

of, 115; first in islands, in; germ

Montgomery, 241.

Morse, Professor, 259, 291, 312.

found, 122 ; painless, 121 ; how trans-

mitted, 122 ; white, of Syria, 122.

Mother Carey chickens, 39.

Lick Observatory, 160; party, 275.

Mule Mountains, 370.

Li Hung Chang, 225.

Murakami, Mr., viii, 241, 243, 245, 252,

Likelike, Princess, 64, 74.

261, 263.

Liko lehua (Hawaiian plant), 89.

Museum at Sapporo, 258.

Liliha, wife of Boki, 104.

Mutsu, Count, 225.

Liliuokalani, 55, 64, 74.

Mykasa-yama, Nara, 213.

Longfellow, 216.

Mynah bird, 85.

Lookout Mountain, 269, 370.

Myorin Kwannon, 210.

Loti, Pierre, 336.

Myoshinji Temple, 198.

Lotus, 174, 186, 199, 200, 209.

Lowell, J. R., Ill, 194.
Lowell, Percival, 155.

Nagara, river at Gifu, 189.

Nagasaki, 339, 345.

Lukula, a Hawaiian prophet, 76.

Nagata, Professor, 316.

Lunalilo, former Hawaiian king, 1 12.

Nagoya earthquake, 143.
Nakadori, 177, 178.

Lyly, 327.

Lyman, B. S., 272.

Nakamura, Professor, 157.

Nakashima, Inland Sea, 222.
Namikawa (Tokyo), 178, 179 ; (Kyoto),

MacArthur, S. S., 26.

McGrew, Dr., 103.

201, 202, 203.

McNair, Admiral, 151, 179.

Nara, 209, 210, 243.

INDEX

381

Naruto Channel, 228.

Pele, goddess of fire, 70, 74, 77 ; cave.

Nation, The, viii.

75; flower, 71, 75, 89; offerings to.

Neesima, Mr., 204.

75 ; defiance of, in 1824, 70.

Nemuro, province of Yezo, 157.

Pelican Island, 241.

Newcomb, Professor, 242.

Pemberton, J., v, vi, 229.

New England, 30, 70i T^t S3, 254,

Pericles, 88.

287.

Perry, Commodore, 147.

Nichi-Nichi, 144.

Phoenix Hall, 209.

Nikko, i86, 343, 345.

Plate-holders, 10 ; endless chains of,

Nishi Hongwanji, temple, 198.

11,36,236.

Nishimura, 203, 204.

Plays, old classic, 165, 166.

Nitobe, Professor, 233, 258, 259.

Plumeria, 46.

No dance, 167.

Poi (national Hawaiian dish), 51, 65,

Nomamura, Inland Sea, 218.

66, 88, 91.

Norway, xxi.

Poillon, Messrs., 2.

Nova Zembla, xvii, xxi.

Point of Mists, 48.

Nozawa, Mr., 233, 235.

Poison, in arrows, 311.

Nuuanu paH, 50, 51, 52.

Polar axis, 11.

Polaris, 126, 133, 135.

Oahu, island, 40, 51 ; college, 104, 105,

Polynesia, 53.

107, 108 ; Glee Club, 108.

Poronaibo, 295.

Oakland, 24, 356.

Portland, 22.

Obi (sash), 142.

Portuguese, 43, 62, 85.

Observations, meteorological, xxi, 156,

Puget Sound, 20.

275-

Punahou, 104, 105, 107, 108.

Octopus, 33.

Punaluu, 66, 73, 86, 88.
Punch Bowl (crater), 124.

Odyssey, 30, 258.

Ogawa, Mr., viii, 170.

Punkah, 170.

Oginohama, 244, 245, 251.
Ohayo (" good morning "), 281.

Queen, 92; Emma, 53, 55; Keopuo-

Ohia, tree with scarlet blossoms, 71,

lani, 55 ; Liliuokalani, 55, 64, 74.

75. 84.

Queen Regent, Kaahumanu, 55; Ki-

Ohiyo, a kind of elm tree, 298.

nau, 55.

Okachi, 248.

Okhotsk, Sea of, 159, 269, 274.

Rainier, Mount, 20.

Okita, 184, 185, 196, 197, 201, 207,221,

Rebosa, 362.

224. 345-

Reibunshiri, 269.

01>Tnpia, U. S. S., xxxii, 149, 150, 179,

Reporters, 21, 142, 355.

181, 182, 349.

Reverie, 194.

Olympian Mountains, 20.

Revolution, 176.

Omao (Hawaiian bird), 86.

Richard barometer, 132.

Ondo, strait, 219, 220, 222.

Rishiri, 268, 269.

Onivake, 269.

Roche's Point, Ireland, 2.

Onomichi, 219.

Roentgen rays in corona, 325.

O-o ( Hawaiian bird), 91.

Ronins, 175.

Osaka, floods about, 243.

Rotation of corona, 160, 277.

Osgood, 8.

Round Top, 196.

Oshidomari, 269.

Ruth, Princess, 74.

Oshima, Mr., viii, 233, 289, 290, 332.

Ota, " Wizard of," 348.

Saghalien, 271, 274, 311, 329.

Otaru, 233, 243, 252, 255, 261, 266.

Sake, 165, 306 ; Sake Cup, 374.

Outlook, The, viii.

Sakura (cherry blossom), 179.

Owl's Head, L. I., 2.

Sakura-maru, 170, 171.

Oyama, Countess, 176.

San Antonio, 373.

Sandy Hook, 5.

Pacific, 9, 30, 31, 32,40, 43, 136, 137.

San Francisco, 2,4, 7, 15, 21,24, 25.

Pahala, 69, 94.

32, 69, 129.

Papaia (fruit), 56.

San Jose Mountains, 369, 370.

Paris Observatory, 160, 276.

San-ju-sangendo, 199.

Patagonia, 6.

Sankwan Island, 248.

PauahiHall, 105, 108,109.

San Rafael, 26.

Peabody Museum, Salem, 259.

Sapporo, 159, 170, 233, 255 ; Imperial

Pearl Harbor, 48.

Agricultural College at, 233, 255.

Peeresses' School, 176, 177.

Saru-sawa-no-ike, pond in Nara, 214.

-^82

INDEX

Sausalito, 7, 24, 25, 26, 28.

Sawayama, Mr., 205.

Schaeberle, Professor, 160.

Schoolhouse, Esashi, 280, 281 ; old,
275, 280; new, 228, 327, 330.

Scorpion, 126.

Sea of Japan, 269; of Okhotsk, 139,
269, 274.

Seattle, 20.

Seifu, famous potter, 201.

Sei-yo-ken, 173, 174.

Sendai, Bay of, 143.

Shakespeare, As You Like It, 104;
II Henry VI., 7, 188, 327 ; King
John, 318 ; Richard III., 209; Ti-
tus Andronicus, 24.

Shanties, 36, 37, 38, 134, 352.

Shasta, Mount, 22.

Shiba temples, 174.

Shijo, 214.

Shikoku, island in Inland Sea, 227,
242.

Shikotan, island of, 338,

Shimbun (newspaper), 142.

Shimidzu, 183, 184.

Shimonoseki, 224, 225.

Shinto festivals, 205.

Shirakawa, vi, 10, 243 ; appatattis at,
325; in 1887, 170.

Shirasaka-San, 331, 335.
. Shiriya Light, 251.

Shizuoka, 185, 187.

Shodoshima, 218.

Shundoku (treasure box), 299.

Sierra Madras, 370.

Signals, communication by, 40, 182.

Skykomish River, 20.

Smith, Sydney, 139.

Smith and Terry, 2.

Some-San, 331.

South Sea Islands, specimens, 53.

Soya, Cape, 234, 255, 268, 271.

Spectroscopes, 8, 277.

Spica, 135.

Spokane, 17.

Sulphur caves, 81.

Sulphur Springs Valley, 369.

Suruga Gulf, 183.

Suruga-maru, 171.

Suzuki-San, Vice-Govemor of Hok-
kaido, 371.

Tadotsu, 218.

Tairen-maru, S. S., 243, 244, 245, 251,

253, 255.
Takemikatsu Chi-nomikoto (god at

Nara), 213.
Tamaiya inn, 188, 193.
Tamalpais, Mount, 26,
Tanabe, 147.
Tantalus, 124.
Taps, 356.
Taro, or Kalo, 51.
Taro-patch (stringed Instrument), 47.

Tartary, Gulf of, 269.

Tattooing, 303, 304, 311.

Terao, Professor, 160, 276, 330, 3312,
333, 346. .

Thaxter, Celia, i.

Thompson, E. A., v, 232, 278, 321 ;
E. F., 24.

Ti (or ki) leaves, 90.

Tidal wave, 73, 143, 245-49.

Time bells, 149, 150.

Times-Herald, Chicago, 10 r.

Todd, Professor, v, vi, xxi, 10, 156-
S7, 233-37> 240. 278, 330, 337. 346,
374-

Tokaido, 18^.

Tokonoma (recess), 187, 188.

Tokyo, 143 ; eclipse party, 276 ; Obser-
vatory, 160 ; Central Meteorological
Observatory at, 157, 275, 319.

Tomo, 219.

Tonakai (deer), 329.

Toyoura, 224.

Treasures of the deep, 241,

Tsuda, Miss,_viii,

Tsugaru Strait, 251, 252.

Tsukiji, Tokyo, 173.

Tubi, Inland Sea, 228.

Turner, Professor, 160, 343, 344.

Tuscarora Hollow, 250.

Uchimura, Mr., 205.

Uji, 209.

Ukulele, stringed instrument, 44, 47,

100.
University at Tokyo, 164, 273.
Urtica, fibre, 299.
Uyeno Park, 174.

Vancouver, 137.

Volage, H. M. S., 100.

Volcano House, 76, 77, 79, 81, 82, 89.

Vries Island, 137, 183.

Waa (canoe), 63 ._

Waianea mountains, 48.

Waikiki, near Honolulu, 46.

Waikolu, 120.

Wakkanai, 234, 271, 280.

War, with China, 145, 154.

Water-lemon, vine, 82.

Weather, Imperial Bureau of, 156,

157-
Wellington, Washington, 19.
West Africa, 10, 12, 326.
Wheeler, Mr. (San Francisco), vii.
Wilkes Scientific Expedition, 60.
Wright, Dr., Yale Univ., 278.

Yaami, hotel in Kyoto, 194, 195, iq6.
Yacht Club, New York, 2 ; San Fran-
cisco, 24 ; Yokohama, 149.
Yale University, 106.
Yamatoya, 348.
Yedo, 143 ; Bay, 139, 181.

INDEX

383

Yezo, II, 157, 171, 217, 251, 256, 272 ;
bears, 244 ; evolved from chaos, 264 ;
horses, 285, 286; shores, 252 ; trav-
eling to, 241 ; west coast, 255, 265.

Yokohama, 3, 12, 144, 159.

Yonsike (an insect), 311.

Yoritomo, 300.

Yorktown, U. S. S., xxxii.

Yoshimitsu, 198.
Yoshitsune, 300.
Young, Professor, xix, 97.
Yuma desert, 358.

Yusen Kaisha, ofl&cials, 233, 266;
steamers, 243, 255, 334.

CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS, U. S. A.

ELECTROTVPED AND PRINTED BY

H. O. HOUGHTON AND CO.

DS809,T63

ASTRO

TO., Mi5002 00400 1272

Corona and Coronet; being a narrative of

Science DS

809 . T63

1899

Todd,
1856-

Mabel Loomis,
■1932.

Corons

i and

Coronet

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Full text of "Corona and Coronet : being a narrative of the Amherst eclipse expedition to Japan, in Mr. James's schooner-yacht Coronet, to observe the sun's total obscuration, 9th August, 1896"

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