Costume design and illustration

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AT LOS ANGELES

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EDITED BY

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THE WILEY TECHNICAL SERIES

EDITED BY

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GiEARD College

TEXTBOOKS IN DRAFTING AND DESIGN

Decorative Design. A Textbook of Practical Methods. By Joseph Cummings
Chase, Instructor in Decorative Design at the College of the City of New York
and at the Woman's Art School, Cooper Union. vi4-73 pages, 8 by lof, 340
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Agricultural Drafting. By Charles B. Howe, M.E. 8 by lof , viii+63 pages,
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Agricultural Drafting Problems. A Manual to Supplement the text in Agri-
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Architectural Drafting. By A. B. Greenberg, Stuy-vesant Technical High
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Brooklyn, viii+iio pages, 8 by io|, 53 figures, 12 plates. Cloth, $1.50 net.

The Orders of Architecture. A IVIanual to Supplement the text in Architectural
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50 cents net.

Mechanical Drafting. By Charles B Howe, M.E., Bushwick Evening High
School, Brooklyn, x+147 pages, 8Xiof 165 figures, 38 plates. Cloth, $1.75 net.

Drawing for Builders. By R. Burdette Dale, Formerly Director of Vocational
Courses, Iowa State College. v-f-i66 pages, 8 by lof, 69 figures, 50 plates.
Cloth, $1.50 net.

Costume Design and Illustration. By Ejhel H. Traphagen, Instructor and
Lecturer at Cooper Union, etc. ix+145 pages, 8 by lof. Upwards of 200
illustrations, including several in color, and a Color Spectrum Chart. Cloth,
$2.50 net.

Mechanical Drafting Manual. A Series of Lessons and Exercises Based upon
the Fundamental Principles of Drafting. By Charles B. Howe, M.E. Part I.
General Principles of Drafting and Working Drawings. 15 Lessons, with Illus-
trations. Part II. Geometry of Drawing. 15 Exercises, accompanied by full-
page plates. 8| by 65. Printed in loose-leaf form, each Part in a separate
envelope. (In Press, Ready Fall, 19 19.)

(Part III. Machine Drafting: (a) Elementary Principles, (b) Advanced.
Part IV. Plan Drawing. Part V. Plot and Map Drawing. In preparation).

Student's Manual of Fashion Drawing. Thirty Lessons with Conventional
Charts. By Edith Young. Director of the Edith Young Art School, Newark,
N. J. Formerly Art Director of the Albert Studio of Fashion Drawing, Albert
Business College, Newark, N. J., and Instructor of Fashion Drawing at the
Young Women's Christian Association Newark, N. J. vii-f 107 pages. 8 by 10 j.
30 full-page reproductions of original drawings. Cloth, $2.00 net.

For full announcement see lis! following index.

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Drawing by Drian

Frontispiece

Courtesy of Harper's Bazai

COSTUME DESIGN
AND ILLUSTRATION

ETHEL TRAPHAGEN

Instructor and Lecturer at Cooper Union, The New
York Evening School of Industrial Art, and Brooklyn
Teachers' Association Classes; formerly on the staff
of Dress Magazine and The Ladies' Home Journal

'H'

FIRST EDITION

NewYork 1918

JOHN WILEY & SONS, Inc.

CHAPMAN & HALL, Limited Londok

Copyright, 1918, by
ETHEL TRAPHAGEN

PRINTEBS

^rr

Art Library

rr

50'f

THIS BOOK IS SINCERELY DEDI-
CATED TO MY STUDENTS, WHOSE
ENTHUSIASM AND SUCCESS HAVE BEEN
ITS INCENTIVE AND INSPIRATION

THEPREFAGE

Costume Design and Costume Illustration are not always looked
upon as distinctly different branches of what is termed fashion work,
but in truth there is a marked difference between them.

^ In the former, one must consider the judging of color, and all that this
(\j includes by way of harmonies, contrasts, areas, etc.; the relation of spaces;
(?) proper proportions; and the beauty and effect of line, balance and scale
^ arrangements for the production of a design that is dignified, fanciful,
^^ frivolous, dainty, formal, or subtle, to express the designer's conception
Oft of the purpose of the costume and its suitability to the wearer.

(^ The costume illustrator, on the other hand, has the privilege of

, representing the garment after it has been designed — he must be able

^ to render the material with his pen, pencil or brush in such a way

^ that the actual design is not robbed of any of its charm. Of course,

("V there are many ways of doing this, according to the technique and

sensitiveness or temperament of the artist, as well as the different

methods customary for the special use for which the design is intended.

It can easily be seen how advantageous it is to any fashion artist,

whether designer or illustrator, to have an understanding of both branches

to get the best out of either, for they have much in common.

The designer and the illustrator should both have a knowledge and a keen
appreciation of the beautiful lines of the human form, to know what
lines are important to emphasize and what to conceal in a figure which
may not be perfect. Drawing from the nude is of great advantage to
the student, and no serious costume illustrator should be without this
valuable training.

There are some books which may help the ambitious student in the life
class to observe and impress on the mind fundamental facts which it is
believed most life-class teachers will agree in thinking extremely useful.
Among these are Dunlop's Anatomical Diagrams, Figure Draicing by
Hatton, Anatomy in Art by J. S. Hartley, Richter, Marshall or Duval, and
Drawing the Human Figure by J. H. Vanderpoel. If the student is studying
without an instructor, Practical Drawing, by Lutz, will be found helpful.

Ethel H. Traphagen,

New York, 1918.

THE CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. Sketching 1

II. Drawing without Models .... 13

III. Methods 27

IV. Color 63

V. Design 75

VI. The Fashion Silhouette ..... 83

VII. Period Fabric Design 91

VIII. Outline of Historic Costume ... 99

IX. Bibliography .127

X. A Reading and Reference List of

Costume, Arranged Alphabetic-
ally 137

XI. Artists whose Work Has Bearing

ON Period Fabrics or Costume . 185

XII. Index 199

SKETCHING

CHAPTER ONE

COSTUME DESIGN AND ILLUSTRATION

CHAPTER ONE

SKETCHING

1. Forms. — In both lines of fashion farthest point out of the other oval, to

work it is necessary to be able to eon- represent the skirt. Connect these and

struct quickly a form on which to sketch you have a form. See Fig. 1. The bust

or design a dress, and, like the forms in and hip should be on a line, and for the

fufthat

Fig. 1. — First steps in constructing a dress form.

store windows, this should be constructed
to enhance the good lines of the garment.
Care must be taken, however, never to
confuse this with the human figure, the
structure of which is entirely different.

The simplest way of obtaining this
form is by drawing tw^o ovals. First,
make a straight line for the shoulders,
then swing an oval, somewhat foreshort-
ened, from the shoulder line, to repre-
sent the waist. Next, swing another
more elongated oval, from near the end-
ing points of the first oval, having the
farthest part out always opposite the

present-day silhouette the connecting lines
should be but slightly curved.

Next, extend the two lines for the
sleeves, add the collar and put in the
centre line, which, in the front, follows
the outside line of the waist and goes
straight in the skirt. See Fig. ^. (Of
course, the proportions differ according
to fashion; i.e., the normal waist would
go but twice into the short skirt of the
summer of 1916.) It is interesting to
note how the reverse of this straight line
and curve forms the back. In making the
back, connect the ovals in the same man-

Page Two SKETCHING

ner, but note that the centre Hne goes the straight full front view, because of

straight in the waist and curves in the the advantage of showing the side of the

skirt. See Fig. 3. dress as well as the front. An examina-

The waist and collar lines curve up. tion of fashion publications will prove

The normal waist goes into the skirt about how general is this preference.

Fig. 2.

JlJlu

Fig. 3.

two and a half times, and the sleeves
bend at the waist line or a little above.
The supporting points at the shoulder,
elbow, and hips should be marked, for
it is these points that most affect the
drapery.

With a little application, these forms
may soon be mastered, and the practice
of doing them rapidly and turning them
both ways makes for proficiency. See
Pig. 4. Observe that three-quarter front
and back views are used in preference to

Fig. 4.

2. Summary. — The main points to be
remembered are that the bust and hips,
for the present silhouette, should be on a
line, that the arms bend at the waist line
or a little above, and that the normal
waist goes into the instep length skirt
about two and a half times.

In the front view remember that the
centre line follows the outside line in
the waist and goes straight in the skirt,
that in the back the centre line goes
straight in the waist and curves in the

SKETCHING A GARMENT

Page Three

skirt. (The centre hne is the centre of
the actual figure, not of the sketch.)

The collar and waist lines curve up in
the back and down in the front. The
bottom of the skirt describes a circle;
therefore, like the

waist and collar,
the line curves, but
always downward.
The shoulder lines
should be made to
slant as much as
the silhouette re-
quires.

For this work
use an H.B. pencil,
Eberhard Faber,
Ruby or Emerald
eraser, and emery
board pad. The
point of the pencil
should be kept
very sharp by con-
tinually pointing it
on the pad. From
the start great at-
tention should be
paid to a clean-cut
and beautiful line
and to the proper
placement of the
sketch on the
paper. See under " Greek Law," page 27.

3. Sketching a Garment. — After the
form is mastered up to this point, the
next step is the sketching of a garm^ent
on the foundation drawn. If possible, have
as a model a simple dress or suit on a
coat-hanger, or preferably a dressmaker's
form; then find the centre line of the
garment and see that, in sketching it
on the oval form first constructed, you

jU

Fig. 5. — Pencil sketch of a suit.

have the centre line of your sketch cor-
respond with the centre line of the gar-
ment. You will find the proper observa-
tion of the centre line an infallible guide
in giving you the proper relation of the
sketch to the gar-
ment.
im Next observe

V- x\ the large, impor-

' tant facts — such as

length of sleeves,
length of coat, the
long, important
lines— and be par-
ticular to put in
the seams; but
leave details such
as embroidery,
lace, tucks, plaits,
gathers, etc., until
the last. See Figs.
5, 6, and 7.

After the lengths
of the sleeves,
waist, coat, etc.,
are determined,
you must strive for
skill in keeping
your pencil line
clean and sharp.
This gives the
much-desired, well
pressed newness to the garment. To
keep this effect, beware of too rounded
curves. After the sketch is finished,
some accents should be put in, in
places where shadows would naturally be;
this gives added interest to sketches.
From the first, observe and work for
texture. Notice how delicate, light lines
express thin material better than heavy,
hard ones. After ability of this kind is

'[•]'"! ]''"".< ^

Page Four

SKETCHING

acquired, the next step is to work for
speed. Garments in shop windows give
excellent opportunity for sketching when
the student is trying to acquire speed.

4. Sketching from Memory. — Training
the memory in
sketching is also
most important. A
good way to do
this is to sketch
from memory
what has been
drawn from ths
garment the day
before. Another
good way is to
observe a dress
either in a shop
window or on a
person, and then,
without again
looking to aid the
memory, to try to
put on paper all
you remember. It
is well to verify
this sketch by
comparing it with
the garment, to
find out how much
you have forgotten
and where you
have made mis-
takes. To be able
to sketch from memory is a truly valu-
able asset in costume work. So much
can be carried away in one's mind from
"Openings" and places where sketching
is not possible.

5. Sketching from Garments. — A knowl-
edge of the proper way to sketch gar-
ments such as gowns, hats, and acces-

FiG. 6. — Preliminary pencil sketch of a gown

sories, is absolutely necessary in fashion
work. It is helpful, first for your own
convenience when you see things you
wish to remember, or when you wish to
explain things seen to some one else, next,
in gathering ideas
to adapt to your
own designs, and
again, in doing
sketching for news-
papers or maga-
zines. Designers
for manufacturers
find it a great
boon to be able to
sketch in their ex-
ploring trips in the
shops and along
Fifth Avenue.

Sketching for
manufacturers is
done for two pur-
poses: To give
Ihem the latest
French models
from the "Open-
ings" from which
to make exact
copies or some-
thing adapted to
their special trade
needs, and to give
them an inventory
of their own stock
for their reference and convenience.

Sketching for dressmakers is a little
line of fashion all its own. The sketches
for them must be daintily finished, as
they are to be shown to the customer
and play an important part in the sale
of the gown represented. The simple
ones (see Fig. 6) are done in pencil, with-

SKETCHING FROM GARMENTS

Page Five

Fig. 7.— Illustrating a variety of details.

but

out heads, but with a styhsh foundation
form under-
neath, with
sometimes a
little color
added in the
background to
throw the
sketch out.
Sometimes they
are still more
finished though
without heads, Fiq. 8.

as a rule the more finished dress-
makers' sketches
are done on
figures express-
ing some action
and illustrating
the presumed
effect of the
gown on the
wearer. See
Figs. 13 and 14.
WTien sketch-
es are being

Page Six

SKETCHING

done for embroideries, an additional small
detail drawing should be made of the
embroidery at the side of the paper. Tex-
tures and colors should always be noted
on the sketch as well as details, such
as the number of buttons,
etc., in order that there
may be no confusion when
making the finished sketch
at home or in your studio.
A convenient size for
rough sketches is six and
one-half inches. Practical
sizes for finished dress-
makers' sketches are from
ten to twelve inches when
heads are included; with-
out heads, six and one-
half or seven inches.
Wide margins lend dis-
tinction.

Some of the well known
French designers are Paul
Poiret, Cheruet, Beer,
Callot Sceurs, Paquin,
Martial and Armand,
Francis and Drecoll. Al-
ways note the designer's
name on your sketch as
well as the texture, color,
and detail. The name of
the design always en-
hances the value of a
sketch. Always place
these sketches on the
paper according to the Greek Law, i.e.,
most margin at the bottom of the paper.

When making a finished sketch of this
kind, a pretty pose should be chosen,
and this should be thought out and
practically finished in pencil; then draw
in the garment carefully before putting

on the color. The usual method is to put
in the shadows first, the light big washes
next, and the detail last. Clear color is
used as a rule but opaque or tempera is
often used in small areas combined with
the clear color sketch;
sometimes opaque paints
are substituted. (See Page
9 and description under
Color, page 68.) Pen-and-
ink outlines are often used
for these sketches and kid
bristol or illustration board
is considered the best kind
of paper.

6. Hats.— Much of what
has just been stated ap-
plies also in sketching
hats. Care should be
taken to express the most
characteristic side of the
hat; in other words, catch
its "feature." Be careful
not to lose the relation
of the crown of the hat
to the head. When pos-
sible, it is best to have
some one pose for you to
insure the right angles.
See Fig. 12.

Before going into this
further, consult Section
15, page 17.

Theatrical designs and
sketches are carried out in
the manner of the other sketches of
hats and dresses, but a greater liberty
in the way of eccentricity and exaggera-
tion is permitted. See Fig. 9.

7. Accessories. — In connection with
sketching, the student would do well to
pay attention to accessories such as col-

By William Gebhardt
Fig. 9. — ^Theatrical design.

SKETCHING FROM LIFE

Page Seven

lars, sleeves and
shoes. It tends to
much greater facility
on the part of the
student to arrange
these according to
the Greek Law of
proportion, page
27. For sugges-
tions see Fig. 11
on this page.

8. Sketching from
Life. — Sketching
from life is strongly
advised; drawing
from the nude is of
great advantage
when done with un-
derstanding. In all
sketching and draw-
ing it is advisable to
block in, or in other
words, sketch with
light lines the general
proportions, using
tentative or trial
lines and "feeling
for" the form. See
Figs. 15, 16, 18, and
19.

Never complete
one part before
another part is
thought out; never
fix your attention
on the outline, but
rather on general
proportion, or the
result will be un-
happy. See Fig. 17.
Decide where your
drawing is to begin

?.A*»S

Courtesy of Gerhard Menncn Co

Fig. 10. — Crayon drawing.

Fia. 11.— Shoes drawn by Elfrida Johnson.

on the paper, and
where it is to end,
leaving good mar-
gins (more at the
bottom than top),
and block in between
these spaces. After-
wards make sketches
from memory of the
pose you have been
studying.

When doing rapid
sketching to catch
the action of a figure
in motion, indicate
the position of the
head, hands, and feet
and fill in the rest.
Excellent practice is
obtained in doing
five, seven, ten, and
fifteen minute poses
from the nude or
draped model.
These quick sketches
often afford good
action poses that can
be carried out and
used to great advan-
tage. See Figs. 40 and
41. This sketching
will be most helpful
in assisting the stu-
dent to obtain a pro-
fessional touch and
an individual style.

More and more
stress is being laid
on the well-drawn
figure underlying the
fashion drawing and
too much emphasis

Page Eight

SKETCHING

cannot be put on the value of drawing
this figure with understanding and appre-
ciation. Great care should be given the
study of hands
and feet, as these
play an impor-
tant and telling
part in fashion
work. See Front-
ispiece and Figs.
10, 27, and 28.

The student is
advised to make
copies, by way of
study, from the
hands in Vander-
poeVs Human Fig-
ure and then to
make studies
from life. It is
important in this
work to observe
from which side
the light is com-
ing. (See Figs.
28 and 29.)

It is practical
to make the life
studies in a loose,
artistic manner,
in charcoal, chalk,
etc., and after-
wards to draw
from this sketch
another figure,
copying the pose
and keeping the
action, but refin-
ing it slightly, to make an attractive fashion
drawing on which to put the dress from
one's costume sketch . See Figs. 40 and 4 1 .

Lutz, in his book entitled Practical
Drawing, wisely says:

Fig. 12.

"When drawing from fife, it is a good
plan to put yourself, in the same pose as
the model; that is, imitate as well as
you can, the ac-
tion, the disposi-
tion of the limbs,
and the pose of
the head. This
mimicry — it will
only be that some-
times, as you will
find that different
persons have dif-
ferent ways of
carrying them-
selves, and you
can perhaps only
approximate the
pose of the model
— will give you a
better understand-
ing of the pose
and impress itself
on you mentally
and further the
work of pictur-
ing it.

"Note how,
when the hips
slant one way,
the shoulders, to
counterbalance,
incline the other
way ; and the head
again to preserve
the balance, tilts
away from the
falling shoulder. This applies to the
greater part of poses. Sometimes, though,
models deviate from the general." This
is valuable advice to observe in your
work.

Courtesy of N.Y. Globe
An example of hat illustration.

SKETCHING FROM LIFE

Page Nine

Figs. 13 and 14 show two treatments of
the same kind of sketch. Fig. 13 is done
in a reahstic way, in Fig. 14 the conven-
tional method is used. In Fig. 13 hght

in clear water color. The tempera paint
is put on in one flat tone and allowed to
dry ; the other colors are then put on over
this The opaque paint has the advantage

Fig. 13. — Complete dressmaker's sketch done in trans-
parent water color.

and shade have been considered while in
Fig. 14 these have been eliminated.

Fig. 13 has been done in transparent
water color, Fig. 14 is done in tempera,
an opaque or body color, except the chif-
fon, flesh tones, and hair, which are done
* With flat transparent washes, pencil lines often

Courtesy of Henry Block.

Fig. 14. — A dressmaker's or manufacturer's sketch
in tempera colors.

of being able to be worked over. It is best
to avoid shading, and to keep to flat tones.
In this sketch the folds are indicated with
strong pencil lines ; this same line effect can
be done with lighter or darker values of
the tempera used for the garment.*
are used most effectively in making a colored sketch.

Page Ten

^;v ■"

- \.

SKETCHING

^-'V

\

• h

Fig. 15,
The illustrations on
this page show one of
the most important
things to be considered
in all kinds of draw-
ing, whether it be from
life, from memory,
chieing, or even copy-
ing, and that is get-
ting the general pro-
portion and action of
the whole, before con-

CouTtesy of the Prang Co.
First stage of sketch of dog.

n

V

Courtesy of the Prang Co.
Fig. 17. — Incorrect way to start a sketch.

CoiirUsy of Che Prang Co,
Fig. 16. — Second stage of sketch of dog.

centrating on any
one part in detail ; re-
membering never to
-- _._ finish one part before

] the other parts are

/ thought out. Fig. 17

( shows the danger of

fixing your attention
on the outline. It is
always advisable to
block in. (See Figs.
15 and 18.)

)

)<^^

'%^i»<^

Courtesy of the Prang Co.

Fig. 18.— First stage of sketch of boy.

Courtesy of the Prang Co.

Fig. 19. — Sketch of boy completed.

DRAWING WITHOUT MODELS

CHAPTER TWO

CHAPTER TWO

DRAWING WITHOUT MODELS

9. To Set Up a Well-proportioned Fig-
ure.-— It is best to understand how to set
up a well-proportioned nude figure "out
of one's head" or chicing a figure as it is
sometimes called. See Fig. 21. To con-
struct this figure find the centre of the
paper, through which run a vertical line.
The head is the unit most useful in meas-

using one inch as the unit of measure.
This gives the height of the figure. Mark
each of these divisions with a dot. The
figure is divided into four important sec-
tions; the head, torso, arms, and legs.
To keep the drawing as simple as possible
we will have to start, in some detail,
with the head, it being our unit of measure.

Dratm hy Reta Senger.

CouTtesy of Good Homekeeptng,

Fig. 20. — Editorial featuring infants' wear.

uring the human figure, and in this
instance, we will use it, making it, for
convenience' sake, one inch long. (The
dimensions we are using will vary slightly
from those given in most anatomies, be-
cause we are constructing a figure to
use in fashion work, where slimness is
the chief requirement.) Mark off on this
line seven and one-half heads, in this
case seven and one-half inches, as we are

To construct the oval which will be
used for the head, mark off the first inch
and divide this one inch vertical line into
three equal parts. At a point just a
little below the first third just established,
draw a light horizontal line of indefinite
length and mark off on it a distance
equal to a little less than two-thirds of
the one-inch vertical line and so spaced
that the vertical line exactly bisects the

Page Fourteen

DRAWING WITHOUT MODELS

horizontal line. Construct an oval on this
plan.

Horizontal lines drawn through the
points that divide the vertical line into
thirds give the eyebrows and the tip of
the nose. A horizontal line drawn through
a point one-third of the distance between
the eyebrows and the tip of the nose
marks the centre of the eye socket, and a
horizontal line drawn through a point
one-third of the distance between the tip
of the nose and the base of the oval
marks the centre of the mouth.

Divide the horizontal eye structure line
into five parts; the middle space represents
the width of the nose, and the nearest
parts on each side the eyes. Guide lines
dropped from the centre of the eyes, ver-
tically, give the corners of the mouth.
For the ears extend a line a little beyond
the oval on each side of the head, from
the first third to the second third, or, in
other words, from the line indicating the
eyebrow to the line indicating the end of
the nose.

Continue the bisecting vertical line
down one-third of its length, to establish
the pit of the neck. Draw a horizontal
line through this point. Drop guide lines
from the base of the ear to this line.
Connect the extremities of these guide lines
with arcs curving slightly towards each
other, thus giving proper expression to
the neck.

10. The Torso. — Three-quarters of the
length of the head gives the width of each
shoulder and of each hip. Cut the dis-
tance between the chin and the pit of the
neck in half by a dot placed on the centre
line. Connect this point with the point
made in marking the width of the
shoulders. The point where this line

intersects the curved line of the neck is
where the neck sets on the shoulders.

The second "head" or unit of measure
gives the bust line. Curve the line in-
dicating the bust section.

The third "head" gives the placing of
the abdomen.

One-half the distance between the bust
and abdomen, or between the second and
third head, is the waist line. Indicate
this. The centre of the figure comes
slightly above the fourth head, this is
also the end of the torso. The line of the
hip is halfway between the third and
fourth head. Establish the width of the
hip line by verticals from the shoulders.

11. The Legs. The knees come half-
way between the hips and the soles of
of the feet. The ankles come at the
seventh head. The width of the ankle
is one-third the width of the hip line.
The inside ankle is high, the outside ankle
low. The calf of the leg is about one-half
the width of the hip, the outside calf
of the leg is higher than the inside calf.

12. The Arms. — The length of the arms,
stretched out horizontally including the
shoulders and the hands, equals the length
of the body. The wrist comes at about
the end of the torso. The elbow comes
at the waist lines. The pit of the arm is
one third each shoulder. With these meas-
urements established, block in the figure
and features.

13. Other Positions of Head and
Figure.— The diagram of a woman's fig-
ure on page 72 of Dunlop's Anatomical
Diagrams will be found helpful to the
student, at first, in blocking in the figure.

After the proportions are well under-
stood, the figure and head may be turned
in other positions; for this the "tooth-

THE FIGURE

IsT HEAI>

2nd head

Sbd head

4th head

6th head

6th head.

7th head

7iTH HEAD.

Page Fifteen

PIT OF ARM ONE-THIRD width

OF SHOULDER

THE WIDTH OF EACH SHOULDER IS
THREE - FOURTHS LENGTH OP
HEAD

SHOULDER LINE ow pit of neck

— ONE-THIRD HEAD BELOW CHIN

BREAST LINE

WAIST LINE ONE-HALF WAT BE-
TWEEN 2nd AND 3rd heads

ELBOW LINE

ABDOMEN

HIP LINE one-half way be-
tween 3rd and 4th heads

END OF TORSO a little above
4th head whist line

KNEE LINE is one-half way

BETWEEN HIP LINE AND SOLES
OF FEET

ANKLE LINE

SOLES OF FEET

Drawn by Gertrude F. Derby.

Fig. 21. — Construction of fashion figure without model.

Page Sixteen

DRAWING WITHOUT A MODEL

Courtesy of Vogue.

Fig. 22. — Modern fashions by Helen Dryden which show influence of Kate Greenaway.

pick figures" (see page 22) make a
good foundation, helping to make simple
the foreshortening then necessary. For
suggestions for turning the head in dif-
ferent positions, see Fig. 23.

14. Children's Proportions. — The chart
shown in Fig. 24 illustrates the propor-
tions found in various stages of devel-
opment. In infancy, or at the age of
about six months, the head measures about
four times into the height; at four years,
the head measures about five and one-
fourth times into the height; at seven,
approximately six and one-half times; at
ten years, about six and three-quarter
times; at fifteen, about seven times; and
in the adult from seven and a half to
eight times. Children's heads, therefore,
it should be noted, are larger in propor-
tion than those of the adult, the eyes are
wider apart, the nose shorter, and the
lips somewhat fuller. See Fig. 22, also
Fig. 24 and Figs. 20, 94 and 95.

Professor C. H. Stratz of The Hague,
Holland, who is one of the greatest author-

* See " Happy All Day Through," illustrated by Janet
Caroline Hunt Rimmer.

ities on the human body in the world,
says a child grows as follows:

First, in breadth and height from birth
to the end of the fourth year.

Second, in height from the fourth to
the beginning of the eighth year.

Third, in breadth from the eighth to
the tenth year.

Fourth, in height from the tenth to
the fifteenth year, when the youth gets
lanky, thin and angular; this is the period
when the hands and feet look too big.
Growth then continues to manhood or
womanhood.

In drawing children, great care should be
taken to keep their legs, at the slim period,
long and slender. Care must be taken not
to make them developed, which detracts
from their childlike charm and makes
them look vulgar. In studying children,
look at good illustrations by Kate Greena-
way, Jessie Willcox - Smith, Elizabeth
Shippen Green, Birch, and Helen Dryden.*

15. Heads and Faces. — The general
shape of the head is that of an oval

Laura Scott, and also " Figure Drawing for Children " by

HEADS AND FACES

Page Seventeen

Fig. 23. — Showing construction lines that help in drawing heads.

with the greatest width at the top; ob- of the nose is halfway between the eye-
serve this, too, in side, three-quarter and brows and chin. See Fig. 23. The eye-
back views of the head. The eyes are brows are on a level with the top of the
in the centre of the head, and the end ear, and the lower end of the ear on a

H Year

7 Years 10 Years

Fig. 24. — Proportion of figure at different ages,

Courteav 0/ Home Pattern Co.
15 Years Maturity

Page Eighteen

DRAWING WITHOUT MODELS

level with the nostrils. This forms a
never-changing axis on which the head
turns up and down.
Note how the fea-
tures are located
in these changes,
and how the fore-
shortening is sim-
plified by means of
this method. In
drawing heads al-
ways use the centre c^"^
and other construc-
tion lines.

When the head
is turned up, we
see more chin and
less forehead ; when
turned down, more
forehead and less
chin. The eyes are
one eye apart, and
the lower lip ends
at about half the distance
between the nose and
chin. A triangle is helpful
in dividing the face into
planes, and great care
should be taken not to
ignore the cheek, jaw and
chin bones. Observe that
the cheek bones come
slightly below the eyes,
the jawbone slightly below
the mouth.

In drawing the nose it
is helpful to think of a
little round knob; from
which extend the nostrils,
sketch in the sides, and
extend a line suggestive of
the planes. Afterwards everything can be

Fig. 26,

rubbed out except the nostrils, but they
will appear more correctly placed than
when put in with-
out this foundation
thought. See Fig.
25.

In drawing the
mouth, think first
of a Cupid's bow,
the string of which
is broken in the
centre; then sug-
gest the lower lip,
shade the upper
lip, which is always
darkest as the
lower catches the
light, and you
have the mouth.
Never make a hard
line around the
lips, as it destroys
the flesh-like qual-
ity. See Fig. 25.

In making the eye, al-
ways hold the pupil in by
the line of the lid. Block
in the head, ears, hands,
and everything before
putting in the detail.

Hair should be expressed
in waves of light and dark,
not by single lines (unless
you are making a deco-
rative, unrealistic draw-
ing). Never draw a
clean-cut line between the
face and forehead, because
the hair in many places
blends in with the tone of
the face. See Fig. 26
and observe other drawings that show hair.

Courtesy of Vogue.

HANDS AND FEET

Page Nineteen

16. Hands and Feet. — The next step high, using the Greek Law of arrange-

should be a careful study of the hands ment. It is well to use real shoes and

and feet. The drawing of these is sim- slippers for models, but study also well-

plified by looking for the large masses drawn examples to see how they are usu-

first and blocking them in. See Figs. 27, ally rendered. Notice how the inside of

10, and 28. For
example, in draw-
ing the hand, deter-
mine the relation of
the length of the
fingers to the palm,
and where the
thumb comes in
relation to the
fingers. All knowl-
edge gained by
study or observa-
tion from life will
help in drawing or
chicing them. Van-
derpoel's Human
Figure, mentioned
before, has some
splendid illustra-
tions of both hands
and feet that the
student would find
it helpful to study.
One good way of
studying them is
to make careful
drawings from these plates, and after-
wards to try to making your own draw-
ings first from life and then from
imagination. See Figs. 28 and 29.

Shoes are extremely important in fashion
work, and should likewise receive the
careful attention of the student. A good
way is to group five or seven pairs of
shoes, including sport shoes and slippers,
in different positions on a sheet of bristol
board about 11 inches wide by 14 inches

Pig. 27. — ^Study of hands by Albert Diirer

the foot is straight-
er than the outside
line, which has
some curve. Ob-
serve also liow
much shorter the
line of the inside
of the shoe is than
the outside line,
which extends
nearer the heel.
See Figs. 25 and
11. Note that the
inside ankle is
higher than the
outside ankle.

It is well to ob-
serve what is ap-
propriate and to
select shoes of
different character.
There are shoes for
shopping, for after-
noon, for evening,
for travel, and
for sport. You
must select the right shoe for the right
dress. The footwear must be in keeping
with the costume; not afternoon shoes
or evening slippers with a sport suit. It
is usually best to have evening slippers
match the gown and hosiery unless you
use a patent leather pump.

In these days we cannot make the
skirt cover up bad drawing of the feet

Page Twenty

DRAWING WITHOUT MODELS

"^

^

Coinimy of The Inhuid Printer.

Fig. 28. — Construction of Hand from Vanderpoel's " Human Figure."

ARMS

Page Twenty-one

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|H

^^^^^H

^^^^^^H

^^H . ^^^1

^^1

^^^^^^^^^^H

^^^^1

^^y^*^^H

'^1

^^^^P^H

^^^H

9

^^^^^^^^kII^I^h

H

^Fsl^

<'!3^^^M

^^fl

I

y^ J^^

J

^H

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^V

^1

^^^^Ik-'<'

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Courtesy of The Inland PriTUer,

Fig. 29. — Construction of Arm from Vanderpoel's " Human Figure."

Page Twenty-two

DRAWING WITHOUT MODELS

Walking.

and shoes. No longer can it be said of
Dame Fashion that

"Her feet beneath her petticoat
Like little mice steal in and out,
As if they fear the light."

17. The Human Form
Reduced to its Simplest
Elements. — Relative propor-
tions and helps to express
action can perhaps best be
acquired by observing the
following facts in connection
with toothpick
figures :

The trunk,
thigh, and leg are
each about one-
third the length
of the body with-
out the head and
neck, though the
trunk is a trifle
the longest. The
trunk is about
twice the length
of the head and
neck. The elbow
reaches to about
the waist and the
hand half way
down the thigh.

Walking is best de-
scribed on paper when
both feet are on the
ground, though in reality
the greater part of the
time the body rests on
one foot. See Fig. 30.

Running is best shown

Fig. 30

Running.

Leaping.

Fig. 31.
Jumping.

Fig. 33. — Illustrating balance.

Leaping is best shown in the same
manner as running (limbs ready for the
next effort), but with the
feet off the ground as in
jumping. See Fig. 31.

Jumping is best shown
with the feet off the ground
but gathered together to
preserve poise and ready to
alight safely. See Fig. 31.

A stick stands when
balanced on one end and also
when supported
on each side as
shown in Fig. 31.
The body may
be bent at the
hips so as to bring
the head over
either foot and
maintain an up-
right position un-
til the weight of
the body is bent
beyond the line
of support, when
it must come to
the ground as
shown in Fig. 32.
Kneeling fig-
ures, leaning
back, make it necessary
that support be given
behind as shown by the
vertical dotted line in
Fig. 33.

The student should
notice that a straight line
extending from the neck
to the floor comes just

Standing.

when one foot is on the

ground, though in reality much of the time between the feet when the weight is

both feet are off the ground. See Fig. 30, evenly distributed on both legs. When

THE HUMAN FORM

Page Twenty-three

Figs. 34 and 35.

Figs. 36 and 37.

Toothpick construction applied to fashion drawing.

the weight is on one leg, the plumb line
begins at the pit of the neck (viewed from
the front) and extends to the ankle of the
supporting leg. On the other hand, when
the figure is in action, the plumb line
from the neck falls between the legs, pro-
viding a proper balance; when this bal-
ance is destroyed, the figure either has to
be leaning against something or it falls to
the ground. See Figs. 32 and 33. After
studying these, it is well to build the

figure on these foundations to acquire
action. See Fig. 34.

In Fig. 36 is shown a seated figure;
the stool is the principal part of support,
though the foot is extended to receive the
weight of the body. Fig. 37 is this con-
struction applied.

Figs. 34, 35, 36 and 37 are given as
illustrations of the use of the toothpick
construction in giving action to the human
form.

\ /'

-A-

CouTtcsv of VoflJie

From a drawing by Helen Dryden, in which pencil, wash
and ink were used, on a rough texture paper.

METHODS

CHAPTER THREE

CHAPTER THREE

METHODS

(a)

18. The Greek Law. — In the sixteenth
century, in the days of the Renaissance in
Italy, Leonardo da Vinci with other artists
worked out, through study of classic art,
an ideal proportion which is commonly
known as the Greek
Law. Instead of
using exact me-
chanical measure-
ments, such as
the half, thu-d,
fourth, etc., so
easily measured
in inches and
easily grasped by
the mind, this law
supplies the idea of a consistent variety, so
fundamental in all artistic things, stimulat-
ing the imagination and lending interest to
the object. Thus, if an oblong is divided
horizontally in half, the equal areas will
be found both mechanical and uninterest-
ing, see (a), Fig. 38. On the other hand,
if the difference in areas is great, as in
(6), Fig. 38, the sizes are too incomparable
to be satisfactory. In (c). Fig. 38, the
oblong has been divided into thirds and
then into halves, and a point found some-
where between one-third and one-half,
through which to draw a horizontal, shown
by the heavy line. It will be seen that the
relation of the areas above and below this
line to each other are neither mechanical
nor monotonous, but subtle and interesting.

(c)

Fig. 38.

These same proportions may be prac-
tically applied in clothing to tucks, hems,
etc., as illustrated in Fig. 39. Suppose a
line is drawn six inches long to repre-
sent a muslin skirt. Divide by the Greek
Law to find
where any trim-
ming (hem and
tucks) should
start. Re-divide
the space given
up to this trim-
ming to obtain
further good pro-
portions (of the
hem to the tucks).
In Advertising — Its Principles and Prac-
tices, published by The Ronald Press Co.,
the following statement is made :

"This Greek Law of proportion is some-
times crudely stated as the ratio of
5 to 7 to 11. This is somew^here near
correct, and perhaps near enough to
work with. In applying this ratio to
the margins of a page it will clearly be
seen that the widest margin, or 11, should
appear at the bottom, the next widest,
or 7, at the top, and 5, the narrowest,
alike on either side in all vertical com-
positions of space. In horizontal com-
positions the widest margin should still
appear at the bottom, the middle size
at the right and the left, and the nar-
rowest at the top. This is so that the

Muslin Tucks

r

^r

^

H

^

Fig. 39.

Page Twenty-eight

METHODS

general form of the display within the
composition shall preserve the same ratio
as is found in the enclosing space itself.

"Not only should the Greek Law of
areas be applied to margins, but also,
when possible with-
out interfering with
the meaning of the
copy, it should
apply to the width
and strength of the
various parts or
paragraphs of the
copy within the
space. When it is
possible to do this,
the effect is doubly
pleasing. There is
also often a chance
to apply these pro-
portions to the
blank space between
different parts of
the copy display.
When it is possible
to do so, this has an
added value. Not
enough attention is
paid to the relative widths of these blank
spaces. Blank space is often more eloquent
than copy."

Summarizing the above briefly, it is
to be noted that :

(1) Mechanical divisions are in-
artistic.

(2) Sizes too unrelated, such as a very
large size and a very small one, fail to
satisfy, as the mind does not see any
relationship in things that emphasize each
other's difference.

(3) Areas or sizes near enough alike to
be easily compared by the eye and yet

y^^

Drawn by BstJier Wegman.

different enough to interest because of
their unlikeness, satisfy us.

(4) Spaces are most pleasing together,
when one is between one-half and two-
thirds the length or space of the other.
This gives quite a
difference in size for
individual treat-
ment, but avoids in-
harmonious lengths
or sizes placed to-
gether. In other
words, when tv»-o
lines are in good
relation to each
; other, the shorter
line is between one-
half and two-thirds
the length of the
longer line.

The Greek law
may be applied to
the margins of draw-
ing papers as well
as to folds and coat
lengths. The best

/:■

Fig. 40. — Quick sketch from
life.

Fig. 41 .—Costume sketch arrangement of

made from quick sketch. • p . • i

margms tor a vertical
lay-out is to have the greatest width at
the lower edge, the next at the top, and the
smallest at the sides ; while for a horizontal
page the widest margin should still appear
at the bottom, the second size at the sides,
and the narrowest at the top. This is
to preserve a like relation with the en-
closed space.

Design is selection and arrangement,
and from the start of any work the details
which make for good design should be
kept in mind. If it is school work, even
the name and the lesson should form part
of the plan. Observe how the enclosing

LAY-OUTS AND REDUCTIONS

Page Twenty-nine

form determines the shape within. The
nearer one comes to the structural edge,
the more nearly the
lines should conform to
it. Avoid lines that lead
to corners, lines that
lead to the centre, and
lines that tend to be-
come tangents. The
lines of the background
or setting should be
less intense than those
forming the object
shown against them.
The larger the area the
less intense the color
should be; the smaller
the area the more

Rectangles
are in

. , ,1 1 Fig. 42. — Enlarging and reducing. Rec

mtense tne color may having the same line as a common diagonal

be. In order to have two proportion.

or more shapes hold together for unity, triangle. A

the space between must be less than the process, using the dimensions just given

the printed page is given to the artist
(for example eight inches high by seven
and one-quarter inches
wide) and the number
of figures to be put in
that space (say five
figures). The artist's
work is to compose
these figures in the
most attractive group
or groups.

The first step is to
enlarge the dimensions
to a convenient work-
ing size. In doing this,
the original proportions
must be kept. The en-
larging is done by means
of a drawing board, T-
square, ruler and
detailed statement of the

smallest of these shapes.
For illustration, the
paths of a garden should
be smaller than the di-
visions of the garden
shapes.

19. Lay-outs and Re-
ductions. — Lay-out is
the technical name
given to the composi-
tion of a catalogue
page, and the drawing
of the figures which
go on it. It is also ap-
plied to the grouping of
any objects to be put
in a certain given space,
whether for magazines, booklets or news-
papers. The height and width of the
space which the lay-out is to occupy on

Fig. 43. — The rough lay-out.

T-square blade,
corner, measure

is as follows:

Draw a horizontal
line, say two inches
from the top of the
paper, straight across,
using the T-square, the
head of which is held
against the left edge
of the drawing board.
Next measure in, let us
say, two inches from the
left side of the paper,
and draw the vertical
line against the edge
of a triangle, the base
of which rests against
the upper edge of the
At the left-hand upper
seven and one-quarter

inches to the right and eight inches down

Page Thirty

METHODS

with the ruler, using the triangle to per-
fectly complete this little rectangle; then
draw a diagonal and determine the height
desired for working out the lay-out and
extend a horizontal line wherever this
horizontal touches
the diagonal, erect
a perpendicular and
the dimensions of
the large and small
rectangles will have
the same propor-
tion. See Fig. 42.
Catalogue pages
often go through
many hands before
they come out a
technically finished
product, photo-
graphically perfect
but often stiff, in-
artistic and unin-
teresting. There is
often a special
artist who does
nothing but lay-
outs, grouping the
figures and plan-
ning the page as
in Fig. 43 ; another
who makes sketches
of the garments;
another who draws them on the laid-out
figures; another who puts on the large
washes; another who does details such
as lace and embroidery; another who
finishes the heads; and still another who
finishes the hands and feet. See Fig. 44;
the original of this was twenty-five inches
by seventeen and three-quarter inches.
When, however, this work is done through-
out by one expert artist, a much more

Fig. 44. — Conventional Catalogue drawing
work of several artists.

interesting effect is obtained. See Fig.
45, the original size of which was 12^
inches wide by 17f high.

Each line bounding the lay-out should
be touched by some part of some figure.
The better the lay-
out artist the less
space will be wast-
ed. It will be found
advisable to give
the centre to the
figure with the
darkest clothes, as
this is found most
agreeable to the
eye, and also sets
off the other fig-
ures to advantage.
The law of per-
spective requires
that, if there are
smaller figures,
these should be
nearer the top of
the page. The
effect is like a
staircase ; when one
stands below, those
at the top seem
smaller than the
people nearer the
foot of the stairs.
For the principles of general composition
which underlay all design, the student
will find it helpful to read Pictorial Com-
position, by Henry A. Poor; Principles
o/Dmgrii, by Batchelder; Composition, by
Arthur Dow, and Principles of Advertising
Arrangement by Frank Alvah Parsons.

20. Mechanical Helps and Short Cuts.
— Before taking up ink and wash render-
ing, certain mechanical helps and short

Courtesy of John

The combined

MECHANICAL HELPS

Page Thirty-one

cuts to results and effects must be con- texture, the smooth white with black

sidered, such as Ben Day rapid shading texture, and the cross-ruled blind with

mediums, Ross Board, spatter, air brush black texture. A knife and pencil are the

and silver prints. Ben Day is a great tools used to obtain effects with this

time-saver, as can be seen from even the paper. See Fig. 48. In the first, the
few samples shown

in Fig. 49 of some
of the complicated
textiles and half-
tone effects obtain-
able in the line cut
or ink drawing.

When Ben Day
is desired, the
places where it is
to be used are
colored with a blue
pencil or blue
water - color wash
and marked with
the number of the
texture wanted;
the engraver with
the Ben Day
machine does the
rest. See Fig. 49,
and the floor and
hat in Fig. 77,
showing Ben Day
stipple. Notice the
difference between
these and Fig. 50,
done by hand; observe particularly the
greater irregularity of line. When two or
more printings are made the Ben Day can
be put on in color, but this necessitates
two or more plates according to the
number of colors used. See Fig. 97 in
which two plates were used.

Ross Board comes in a variety of designs.
The three most used kinds are perhaps
the plain white with raised or embossed

Fig. 45.

stipple effect is ob-
tained by rubbing
the pencil over the
plain white and
the raised surface,
which in this case
consists of dots.
These catch the
lead and a stipple
effect is the result.
In the second,
white can be ob-
tained by scraping
off the surface and
a darker tone by
rubbing a pencil
on the rough sur-
face. Two effects
can be obtained
with the third ;
with the knife, the
stipple surface;
with the pencil,
the fine check.
Black can be put
on with ink. This
makes possible an
even gradation from white to dead black.
Fig. 48. Fig. 46 shows a finished Ross
board drawing.

Spatter work is done with a toothbrush,
and makes good flat tone effects for tex-
tures, posters and backgrounds. Cover
the entire drawing, except the parts to
be spattered, with paper, cutting out these
to make what is practically a stencil
(tracing paper fastened down with rubber

Courtesy of John Wanamaker
Catalogue drawing, the work of one artist from
start to finish.

Page Thirty-two

METHODS

cement is convenient). First, dip the

toothbrush in a saucer of ink, hold it

facing the paper and about three feet

away, and draw the edge of a penknife

or the handle of a pen or brush over the

bristles toward

you, letting the

spatter fly onto the

drawing. With a

little practice this

can be done very

skillfully. See Fig.

47.

The texture of
rough paper often
gives interesting
effects in the repro-
duction of a draw-
ing; for this rea-
son crayon, pencil,
charcoal, and even
wash drawings are
sometimes done on
what is called a
paper with a
tooth, such as a
charcoal or other
Fig. 45.

The air hnish gives either an even or a
varied tone, as desired, and in the doing
of half-tone shoes it is found very useful.
It is really an atomizer run by pressure, and
by its use a great variety of tone can be
obtained. See Fig. 55. As in spatter work,
the surface of the paper to be kept white
is covered. Frisket paper, which is thin
and transparent, is used for this purpose
and pasted down with rubber cement.
When the rubber cement is thoroughly dry
it may be rubbed off, leaving a perfectly
clean surface. The effect is photographic
and mechanical. See Fig. 54.

Fig. 48. — ^Drawing on Ross Board, reduced from an 8j
high by 7" wide original.

rough paper. See

The silver print method is often used
for making line cuc^ or pen drawings of
shoes. For this purpose a silver print
photograph is made in a size convenient
to work over on Clemmon's plain salted
"• paper and mounted
on cardboard to get
a smooth surface
for drawing. Out-
lines are then care-
fully traced with
the usual drawing
pens and India-ink,
doing deep shadows
first and gradually
working up to the
high lights. When
finished, the silver
or photograph
color is bleached
away by pouring
over it a saturated
solution of bichlo-
ride of mercury.
This leaves the
pen lines clean and
upon a perfectly white sheet of
When dry, the result should be

Courtesy of QuiU Magazine

sharp

paper.

compared with the original photograph

and touched up where necessary. See

Fig. 52.

21. Tracing. — Tracing is often found
necessary and is a time-saver in doing
repeats, etc. Graphite paper gives a
better line in transferring than carbon
paper.

The pencil should be kept very sharp
when tracing and a hard pencil is good
for doing the transferring through the
carbon. Ruled squares are useful to put
under thin paper in doing some kinds of
designs.

Page Thirty-three

Fig. 48. — Ross Board: Embossed white, black and white texture and cross rules.

"No. 317

-9'4'f

9H-

WM\

Mt I

^ii

m

No. 318.— 9^4 X 14^.

No. 319.-9I4X14I4

No. 337-— 9*4 X i4'4-

No. 322.— 6 J4 XII.

No. 323— 6^4 X !

No. 324-— 6M XII

No. 325.-654x11.

THn^

'- T

=r '

Tf

ti

m

:I

i ;

1

No. 326. — 654x11

No. 327-— 6J4 X I

'mmmm

y/.^^yy/yy/yyACf^yM

No. 329-— 9J4 X 14:4.

tt

4=

i

J

= =

No. 330-— 9'A X 1454-

No.

33I.-9J4 X 14^.

No. 332.— 9'A X I4J4.

^'o. 333-— 9^4 X 14!4-

No. 334-— 9J4 X I4J4.

No. 335-— 9^ X I4J4.
Fig. 49. — Some samples of Ben Day.

No. 336.— 9J4 X I4J4-

No. 338.— 6^x11.

Page Thirty-four

METHODS

Fig. 50. — Stipple work done by hand

Stipple, which takes a
long time, is done by dots
made with the point of a
pen. When a flat tone
effect is desired, it is often
produced by sets of
circles running into each
other. See Fig. 51. If
large dots are required, it
will be found convenient
to use a ball -pointed pen.
Artistic and interesting
effects can be obtained in
this manner. See Fig. 50.

22. Silhouette. — In do-
ing silhouettes the follow-
ing statement made by
Miss Harriet Lord,
the silhouette portrait
artist some time ago
in the Tribune, is
helpful commercially,
and her permission
has been secured to
quote it:

"Perhaps no one
has demonstrated
more clearly than
Miss Lord the im-
portance of the pose

Fig. 51. — Detail of stipple.

Fig. 52

y ul Abraham js

of a head, how much ac-
tion, what varying humor,
may be found in the way
in which a head is perched
on a person's shoulders.
A little boy whom she has
portrayed, Fig. 57, holds
his neck perfectly rigid
with head raised in the
back and lowered in front.
One can feel the restrained
life in the little chap, the
unusual quality of his
attentive attitude fostered
by some engrossing in-
terest outside.

"There are ever so
many things to re-
member in making
silhouettes. Certain
persons cannot be
pictured in this posi-
tion, for in many
persons profile means
little; it is the eyes
or something in the
drawing of the full
face that is indicative
of the true personality.
Many faces are im-

SILHOUETTE

Page Thirty-five

mobile and one must look to their eyes
for character. They cannot be well sil-
houetted. Little points must be re-
membered such
as in this little
girl, Fig. 58. You
see her hair is
down her back,
but I have allow-
ed a spot of light
to shine through
to give the out-
line in suggestion
of her neck. Not
to have done this
would have made
an awkward line
and, more impor-
tant, a line that
was not satisfac-
tory, for it al-
most hinted at a
falseness or ap-
parent abnormal-
ity. The chair
on which a person is seated must be
examined, for it must not melt into the
person's figure with puzzling results.
And it is well to break in with lights.

Fig. 53.

for they add character and life to the
drawing.

"And then, too," explained Miss Lord,
"one is startled
to find how much
each line and
curve of the face
means. Nothing
is ignored and a
slightly upturned
lip may be the
touch that gives
an unmistakable
note of character-
ization to the
cutting or inking."
The silhouette
is a very quick
method of gaining
an effect, being
merely an outline
sketch, usually
profile, filled in
with black ink.
See Figs. 57 and
58. White is sometimes successfully added
as in Fig. 5Q.

Half-tone figures are said to be sil-
houetted when the white paper appears

Courtesy of John Wanamater.
-Catalogue page.

Fig

Courtesy of J. J. Staler.
54 — Shoes shaded with air brush.

Fig. 55. — Effect produced by use of an air brush.

Page Thirty-six

METHODS

as the background. A silhouette is a design
sharply defined; the clear outlines of the
drawing coming directly against the paper
on which it is re-
produced. Fig. 69.
A vignette is a sil-
houette having at
the base or behind
the figure, or in
some part of the
design of the figure,
a wash that disap-
pears in a vague
shadowy effect. This
wash is reproduced
only in tone and has
no definite line
marking its edges, which end in an indefi-
nite vagueness (such as the veil ends)
and the shadow background. See Fig. 63.
23. Construction of the Circle.— It is
understood that a circle
is made with a compass,
and an ink circle usually
with a ruling pen. In
speaking of pens, we
might say here that
there are many kinds of
lettering pens, which will
be found serviceable,
when such work is re-
quired. Good books on
lettering are : Writing and
Illuminating and Lettering,
by Edward Johnston, and
the booklet called Book of
Alphabets, by H.W. Shay-
lor. There are other good
books on this subject by
Lewis F. Day and Frank
Chauteau Brown.
24. Constructing an

Fig. 56. — Black and white silhouette used by the Fulton
Theatre to advertise "The Misleading Lady."

Councsy ofN. Y. Trttune.

Fig. 57.— Silhouette

by Harriet Lord.

Ellipse. — With a compass measure from
A to B, Fig. 59, then put the compass
at C and strike a circle as indicated by
the dotted line from
D to E. Where the
circle intersects the
horizontal line at D
and E, place pins.
See Fig. 60. Also
at the point C
stretch a thread
from E to D around
C, and tie at C.
Remove the pin at
C, and, holding the
pencil perpendic-
ularly, describe
the ellipse shown, see Fig. 60.

25. Swipe Collections.* — Swipe collec-
tions is the commercial and expressive
term for what most artists call documents,
and this is one of the most important
items under the list of materials. It con-
sists of examples clipped from all sources —
catalogues, booklets, maga-
zines and newspapers —
illustrating different tech-
nique and the expression of
numerous textures, plaids,
stripes, vel-
ve t s and
detail of all
kinds. These
are not to
be used as
copies, but
as a teacher,
showing ways
that have
been used
with success.

. . Courtesy of N . Y . Tribune.

Copying IS Fig. 58 —Silhouette by Harriet Lord.

* In classifying documents for reference in boxes or envelopes, these headings will be useful: Men, Women, Children,
Animals, Flowers and Fruit, Outdoor Scenes, Furnitiu-e and Interiors, Decorative Subjects and Page Decorations, Color
Plates and Booklets.

TEXTURES

Page Thirty-seven

one way of studying, but is advisable
only when done with intelligence. See
illustration of a "swipe," Figs. 61 and
62, 63 and 64, showing a case in which one
drawing suggests the pose for another.

26. Textures. —
In illustrating
black material in
pen and ink, con-
sideration must be
given to whether
it is a shiny tex-
ture with many
high lights, or a
dull black silk or
velvet, with little
or no shimmer.
The supporting
points usually
catch the light,
and it is here that
the whites are left
or put in. The
trimming has to
be kept light, to
show the detail.
See Figs. 65 and
66.

Stripes and
plaids are both
done in a manner
to give the best
expression pos-
sible to the special
design to be re-
presented. Complicated designs often have
to be greatly simplified for reduction,
and care must be taken to give the gen-
eral effect in the most telling way. See
Fig. 67. Shepherd plaid, when carefully
done, is often made by drawing small
cross stripes in pencil, and filling in

Fig. 60. — Constructing an ellipse

alternate square spaces with black. See
Figs. 67, 68 and 93.

Dotted and flowered materials should
not be expressed in a helter-skelter manner,
but, for satisfactory results, should be
thought out in
an orderly way,
using imaginary
squares or dia-
monds for a foun-
dation. See Figs.
7, 8, 68, 69 and 83.
Chiffons must
keep their trans-
parent quality,
usually expressed
by a delicate line.
Chinese white,
when used dis-
creetly, is often
helpful for this
purpose.

Laces and em-
broideries are
carried out either
in detail or in
sketchy way, ac-
cording to require-
ments. When the
drawing is needed
to advertise a
particular lace,
greater detail
must be given
than when ad-
vertising the pattern of a dress in which
any kind of lace can be used. See Fig. 72.
When the lace is to be done for repro-
duction in half-tone — in other words, when
in wash drawing — in an elaborately worked
out way, i.e., catalogue wash, a dark
background is made (for white lace) and

Page Thirty-eight

METHODS

the lace is worked out in Chinese white
over this dark ground. See Fig. 68.

Wash work embroidery
is also done with Chinese
white, but the background
differs in tone according to
the sheerness, while the
solidity of the pattern is
indicated by heavier lines
on the shadow side. For-
tunately, even in catalogues
of the better character,
more is being left to the
imagination, giving a much
less stilted effect.

Side plaits, box plaits,
tucks, gathers, etc., are all
drawn the way they really
look in realistic drawings.
See Fig. 7 for decorative
treatment. They are also
made simpler, see Figs. 70
and 71.

Stitching is expressed by
a straight line or a line of
dots, though there are sev-
eral different ways of
making them. See
Fig. 7.

Fur is done in masses
of lustrous dark and
light with a soft irreg-
ular edge, avoiding too
"liney" an effect. The
treatment, in fact, is
much the same as for
feathers and human
hair. See Figs. 26, 74,
and 75. In decorative
drawings many different ways of
rendering are used, sometimes a line,
sometimes dots, and sometimes a com-

bination
Fig. 71.

of the two being used. See

Fig. 62

Courtesy of Gimbel Bros

The adaptation.

To express textures well,
the student should cultivate
a love and appreciation for
them. It is good to handle
them, study them, and ob-
serve them at home, in
shops, in the street, at
plays, in museums and in
pictures, noticing the
weight they have, the folds
they make and the lines
they take. Still-life studies
of them are helpful.

Very interesting for the
study of drapery are the
drawings of Albrecht Durer.
See Fig. 109. Observe the
supporting points. Of
course there are many dif-
ferent methods of treatment
as, for example, the way
one would treat a decora-
tive drawing as opposed to
how one would treat a real-
istic one. See Figs. 70,
71, and 72.

27. Pen and Ink.—
Pen and ink is a very
interesting and much
used medium in fashion
work. It may be di-
vided into several
headings as, work for
newspapers, for maga-
zines, and for catalogues.
And these again may be
subdivided into groups.
For instance, there is the pen-and-ink
neicspaper proper style. This is paid for
by the newspaper and is often done in a

PEN AND INK

Page Thirty-nine

broad, bold way with no particular at-
tention given to seams or texture.
This is also known as editorial, be-
cause under charge of fashion editors.
See Fig. 73.

There is newspaper pattern dravnng.
This is paid for by the pattern com-
pany, and here more attention is given
to seams, tucks, darts, and the like than
to texture. See Fig. 76.

Again there is department store adver-
tising. This is paid for by the de-

FiG. 64.

Courtesy (
-The adaptation.

Courtesy of N. Y. Globe.

Fig. 63.— The original— An example of vignette.

partment store, and here seams
are ignored and attention concen-
trated on texture, and expression
of the style. See Fig. 77. This is
sometimes done in a more general
illustrative way, as in headings,
or for a service, when the same
illustrations are used in stores
throughout the country; then the
idea is expressed in an abstract
way. See Fig. 78.

A good deal of space is often
devoted to the newspaper's own
drawing, while the pattern drawing
is usually given a column or two,
and there is not quite so much
stress laid on the filling of space in
either of these cases as in the de-
partment store work. See Figs. 73
and 77, Ben Day often, and wash
sometimes, are combined with news-
paper pen and ink.

Magazines have the same three

Page Forty

METHODS

classes of pen-and-ink drawings and the
same principles hold true. See Figs. 70, 71,
79, and 83. The
magazines, how-
ever, are printed
on superior paper
and with better ink,
so that charming
effects with deli-
cate washes,
which would be
entirely lost in
newspaper re-
production, can
be obtained. See
Fig. 81. Ben
Day is used with
great success in
magazines. See
Figs. 79 and 97.

In the best
pen-and-ink
work for cata-
logues and ad-
vertising, care is
taken, not only
to suggest text-
ure and detail,
but to express
the general char-
acterisfcs of the
garment and its
special charm.
A good example
isgiveninFig.72,
which was used
for catalogue and
also magazine
advertising.

Pen-and-ink work for pattern catalogues
is usually done in a stiffer way than that
done for magazines and newspapers. This

Counesy of Globe.
Fig. 65.— Illustrating dull
black material.

is because, in the great care used to show
every seam and detail ,^ much of spontaneity
is often lost; nev-
ertheless great
improvement in
this matter has
been made of late
by a number of
the pattern
houses, as is
shown in the
careful little
drawing of un-
derwear, Fig.
82, but which
still seems very
stereotype in
comparison to
Fig. 97.

Decorative,
or more or less
unrealistic tech-
nique, has been
used much more
of late in both
newspaper and
magazine edito-
rials and adver-
tising work, but
it is not often
used in pattern
drawing, be-
cause of the ex-
actness usually
required for this
type of work.
This decora-
tive work, while
so simple and
permitting of a certain uniqueness,
requires even a greater knowledge of
drawing to do it successfully than the

-Illustrating shiny

Fig. 66

black material.

PEN AND INK

Page Forty-one

p

'» V

■

\

^^K

s "'

\

KI76

^

CourUsy of Stern Bros.
Fig. ti7. — Lay-out illustrating methods of rendering, stripes, plaids, checks, etc.

Page Forty-two

naturalistic work,
where mistakes
are sometimes
hidden.

In this decora-
tive work beauty
of line and in-
teresting spotting
is given great
consideration.
The effect is ob-
tained by the
fewest lines pos-
sible, and very
interesting work
of this type can
be found in pen-
and-ink, wash and
color. This style
of work was first
made popular by
Aubrey Beardsley,
see Fig. 85, and
the student would
find it profitable
to see his illustra-
tions of Sir Thomas
Mallory's Morte
d' Arthur, Brunel-
leschi's illustra-
tions of La Nuit

• « • • vlfe
••• • ••

1^ •••••••••

I •• •• t • ••••

ings of George
Barbier (some of

which can be Fig. 68.— Catalogue

* Also " East of the Sun and West of the Moon," a

z

F

f

ft.coHor

r^ '

1 f *'

i^ : ^ ; ^ ; ^.

-.,_^_M.

detail done by Samuel Cohen.

METHODS

seen in Album
Dedie a Tamar
Karsavia), Le-
pape and Erte,
all show the in-
fluence of Aubrey
Beardsley and
should be studied
by the fashion
artist. See Figs.
70 and 71.

Headings and
page decorations
are often required
by the department
store fashion art-
ist, see Fig. 84,
and here is the
place where good
ideas are at a
premium. For
this reason, other
people's ideas
should be con-
sulted, studied
and weighed, and
something plaus-
ible and catchy
worked up. The
same thing holds
true of feature
cuts or, in other
words, white
sales, silk sales,
toys, etc., and
these do not want
to be omitted
from the swipe
collection — not
that you are
going to copy

d Fauy Tales by Hans Andersen illustrated by Harry Clarke.

INDIVIDUALITY

Page Forty-three

them, but that they may give you an in- straight, even Hne is desired, satisfactory

spiration. results will be obtained by keeping the

In doing pen and ink the beginner will right arm, from the elbow, resting on the

find Gillott's 170
pen or Gillott's 303
pen most useful.
Because of their
firmness, it is easier
at first to gauge
your line. After-
wards the Gillott's
290 and 291 pens
will be found very
-agreeable to work
with because of
their elasticity.
Higgins' waterproof
ink is useful where
wash is to be com-
bined with the pen
and ink, but many
people, for general
use, prefer Higgins'
non-waterproof and
French black ink.
Use two- or three-
ply Bristol, plate
(or smooth) finish
if for ink alone, kid
finish if washes are
to be added. Very
good effects can be
obtained with ink
and a brush, see
Figs. 73 and 86.

A large drawing
board placed at the
right angle against
a table will give better results than the
board flat on the table. Usually speaking,
it is best to work from the top down
and from left to right, but when a long,

Drawn by Reta Senger. Courtesy of Good Housekeeping Magazine.

Fig. 69. — A silhouetted half-tone drawing.

board and drawing
away from you. Do
not get your lines
too close together.
Observe the differ-
ence between a dry,
harsh line and one
full of variations
of color. Practice
beginning a line
dark and ending
light and vice versa.
Make your line ex-
press the soft deli-
cacy of skin (see
Fig. 65), the light-
ness of chiffon or
the heaviness of
velvet. Make every
line you put down
tell or mean some-
thing; this requires
study and applica-
tion. Compare Fig.
82 showing a hard
line with Figs. 20,
22, 70, 71 and 97,
showing a beautiful
one, and be able to
tell the difference
and why.

It is understood
that a pencil sketch
is made first and
that the ink is put
in afterwards. Reproductions in pen and
ink are called line cuts.

28. Individuality. — There are great dif-
ferences in the make-up of different

Page Forty-four

METHODS

people. Some of us seem born with a We cannot declare either of these manners

strong mechanical bias and others with good or bad to the ex.clusion of the other,

a delicate sensitiveness. In the one case for each of them, and all the gradations

we will tend to draw strong and precise between, have their purpose. The great

Courtesy of Harper's Bazar.
Fig. 70. — Erie magazine editorial drawing — showing influence of Aubrey Beardsley.

lines, in the other to draw lines that are
light and subtle though by no means to
be confused with the weak and broken
lines of inexperience. The distinction is
one that will be noted not only in our
modern art, but also in old Japanese prints.

thing is to find out the method that is
most natural to you and improve that
to the utmost. Do not be discouraged
if your forte is the delicate, sketchy line
and if you do not succeed with the pre-
cise mechanical one. Find the place that

INDIVIDUALITY

Page Forty-five

is waiting for you where your particular
manner is needed.

Too often those in charge of art de-
partments do not appreciate any kind of
work except that which they happen to
use. Do not let them discourage you,
but remember the words of Carlyle,
"The block of granite which is an ob-

Problem. — On a one-quarter size sheet
of bristol board, held vertically, plan mar-
gins according to the Greek proportions.
Divide the space within the margins into
four equal parts. In the upper left-hand
corner draw lightly, with a compass, a
well-related circle; in the upper right-
hand corner draw lightly, free hand, a

Courtesy cf Harper's Bazar.

Fig. 71. — Magazine editorial decorative fashion drawings designed by Erte.

stacle in the pathway of the weak be-
comes a stepping-stone in the pathway of
the strong."

One way to cultivate the proper ap-
preciation of beautiful lines is to begin
by drawing the simplest kind of forms.
This is certainly advantageous in the case
of children, and a teacher of such a class
would no doubt find it useful to give out
such a lesson as this:

well-related oval; in the lower left hand
corner another well-related oval; in the
lower right-hand corner a well-related
ellipse. Then, with a very sharp pencil,
go over these lightly blocked in figures
with as beautiful lines as possible. This
problem can then be repeated with the
idea of filling in these spaces with con-
ventionalized designs to be used for belt
buckles or other ornaments.

Page Forty-six

METHODS

Courtesy of Ellsworth Co.
Fig. 72. — Pen and ink catalogue drawing which
was also used for a magazine advertisement.

^Courtesy of Brootlin Ea:,le.
Fig. 73. — Illustrating newspaper editorial in which pen and ink
fashion work is combined with brush work.

WASH

Page Forty-seven

The power to make beautiful lines must first
be obtained with the pencil, before the same
result can be attained with ink. It is well to
have the student really know what a good line
is before beginning a problem of this kind.
For this purpose have examples of different
kinds of good and interesting lines, such as
Japanese prints, some reproductions of good
line drawings by McQuin, Erte, Dryden, Drian,
etc. Too much must not be taken for granted
about students or beginners knowing just what
a good or beautiful line is, otherwise the mis-
takes of trying to get a hard, inexpressive,
mechanical line is often the result. For that
reason it is well to have drawings made in a

Cffurtesy of Stem
Fig. 74. — A fur catalogue page.

Courtesy of Glmbel Bros.
Fig. 75. — Realistic treatment of feathers.

tight, mechanical way to compare
with those done with more feeling.
Each student should start making
a collection of line drawings with
this comparison idea in view.

29. Wash. — Wash is a very use-
ful medium for fashion work, espe-
cially where photographic effects are
desired, as, for instance, in cata-
logues. In newspapers it is not so
often used as in magazines and cata-
logues, because the poorer paper on
which the newspapers are printed does
not tend to successful reproduction.

For magazines, just as there are
different ways of using pen and ink,
so there are three kinds of wash; the
editorial, the pattern, and the adver-

Page Forty-eight

METHODS

Using. These again can be divided into
different styles of work, as the realistic, the
sketchy, and the decorative. Still again, there
is pure wash and there is wash combined
with pen and ink or crayon.

In the editorial
type most attention
is given to the at-
tractiveness of the
picture. See Fig. 89,
done in a decorative
way, and Fig. 90,
done in a more re-
alistic style.

In the pattern
type most attention
is given to the seams
and the way the
garments are made,
and less to the ex-
pression of any
particular kind of
material; in other
words, the textural
and artistic sides
are subordinated to
the practical pattern.
This is done in a
realistic way. See
Fig. 91.

In wash for adver-
tising, attention is
concentrated on
presenting the
garment to the best
advantage, bringing
out its best features and its textures. This
is done in a freer, more artistic manner,
but often is done in a decorative way
except in catalogues. The wash is com-
bined with pen and ink, as in Fig. 92.
Yet sometimes it is very much finished

and approaches catalogue work in effect;
in fact, sometimes the same drawing
which has been used in a catalogue is
also used to advertise in the magazines.
See Fig. 81.

Wash for cata-
logues is usually very
much finished and
often done without
much addition of pen
and ink. See Fig. 53.
These drawings are
made with the in-
tention of advertising
the garments illus-
trated, and for that
reason great stress
is laid on the mate-
rials and details.
Sometimes wash,
pencil, crayon pencil,
and pen and ink are
all combined in a
drawing; for this,
careful reproduction
is required. See
Fig. 104.

The materials
used for wash are
usually Steinbach or
Curtis Board (Illus-
tration Board), but
for magazine wash,
kid bristol and some-
times even smooth
bristol ( when only a
light flat wash is desired) are used. You
will find it good to have Winsor and
Newton's Lampblack and four brushes.
Numbers 3 and 4 and 6 and 7 are suitable.
You should also have a blotter, some rags,
a sponge for washing off all the color if a

Courtesy of Home Pattern Co.
Fig. 76. — Newspaper pattern fashions.

WASH

Page Forty-nine

Fig. 77.-

Cuurh SI/ uf Fri drrick Looser Co.

-Department store advertising.

mistake is made, and a large white saucer
for mixing black.

Most satisfactory results are obtained
by having your figure and garment very
carefully drawn first, then putting in
your darks or shadows and after these
darks are absolutely dry, your large
washes. Give very careful study to the
texture and the folds.

It is well, when beginning, to get very
good drawings showing examples of the
materials you are endeavoring to express.
Observe how each material is affected by
light and how the light looks on the
folds. See, for example, how in shiny
black silk the dark side blends into the
shadow, while on the light side there is
a crispness and unblended look; also note

how the small folds often end in a little
hook.

Practice putting darks in with one
brush and blending then off with another.
Get so you know just how much water
you want on your brush to get certain
effects. Always mix enough of the color
which you intend to use as the large wash,
and dip your brush into that instead of into
the water and back into your paint, this
lo avoid giving your wash a streaked look.
The Eberhard Faber green or red eraser is
a great help to pick out lights. Often a
wash, when nearly finished, has a very
discouraging appearance, and sometimes
all it really needs is the intensifying of the
blacks and some touching up of the edges,
buttons and the like, with Chinese white.

Courtesy of Dry Goods Economist Co.
Fig. 78.— a department store cut service illustration.

Page Fifty

METHODS

To practice large washes com-
mence by drawing a large square
and, tipping your board towards
you, draw your brush very full
of color across the top of the
paper from left to right; refill
the brush, taking up the rivulet
on the edge of the first line and
repeat the operation until you
have covered the square. You
should have enough paint mixed
in your saucer to finish that
square. Very beautiful wash ef-
fects are often obtained with
just flat washes. They are very
artistic and lovely because of
their simplicity and have none
of the worked-over look of the
catalogue work. See Fig. 89. '

There is always transparency
and life to the first wash which
is lost if you go over
it often. Never be
afraid if the wash
looks too dark. Re-
member that it will
dry fighter and resist
the temptation to
work on it when part-
ly dried. You must
keep it clean and
bold. Occasionally,
stand off from your
work and see how it
looks.

Such things as
white dots or stripes
on the dark ground
of a suit are put in
with Chinese white
after the dark material
is otherwise finished.

Courtesy of Vogue.
Fig. 79. — Magazine
pattern drawing.

ouTtesy of Dry Goods Economist d
Fig. 80. — A department store cut service illustration

Gray effects to be put on over
black are obtained by mixing
Chinese white with lampblack;
this makes a body color and
can be put on over dark in the
same manner as pure white.

If a light streak is desired,
for instance up one side of the
skirt, run a clean brush with
very little water in it up that
side while the wash is still quite
wet; this will give the desired
effect.

Sometimes a color is added
to a wash drawing effectively.
This is put on like an ordinary
wash, but for reproduction
necessitates the using of two
plates and two printings. See
Figs. 98 and 99.

Fig. 93 shows the method of
procedure, or steps,
in doing the conven-
tional wash drawing
for a catalogue. For-
tunately this photo-
graphic method is
giving way to a more
artistic one.

30. Crayon Pencil.
— Crayon pencil is a
fascinating medium.
It is used in pref-
erence to pencil for
reproduction, because
it has not the shiny
quality of the usual
lead which prevents
that from photo-
graphing well, and
therefore from being
good for reproduction.

CRAYON PENCIL

Page Fifty-one

Chalk, crayon and pencil, however, are
handled in much the same fashion and
have much the same effect, and by them
great beauty and much feeling may be
expressed. See frontispiece. Nevertheless
chalk does not
lend itself so
readily to detail,
famous as it is
for its more illus-
trative or sketchy
quality.

Wolf crayon
pencils are very
good. B and 3B
Wolf crayon
pencils and kid
bristol board are
the proper ma-
terials. Kneaded
rubber and Eber-
hard Faber green
or red rubber are
useful, also an
emery board pad
to keep the pencil
points sharp.

It is best to
sketch the draw-
ing in first with
the B pencil and
then put the
darkest darks in with the 3B and the
more delicate finishing touches with the
sharply pointed B. Sometimes stumps
are used to rub the shadows in, giving the
drawing less line texture. See Fig. 10.
Sometimes wash is combined effectively
with the crayon, then again the crayon
drawing is carried out almost entirely in
line. See Figs. 94 and 95.

Sometimes crayon pencil is used on

Fig. 81.

rough paper, and the tooth or roughness
of the paper gives an interesting texture
to the drawing. See Fig. 45.

In doing half-tone drawings, especially
wash, and particularly in decorative work,
it is well to limit
oneself to a cer-
tain number of
tones or values
and not to have
a number of in-
termediary tints
and shades. This
is best done by
determining how
many values are
desired, mixing
them in separate
pans (as much as
is to be needed of
each) and then
limiting the
washes to these.
This gives a simple
distinction to the
finished drawing;
which is decidedly*
desirable. See
Fig. 89. This
simplicity is lost
in Figs. 81, 44,
and 53, which are
done in such a realistic way because of
the almost photographic reproduction re-
quired. Both simplicity and charm are
lacking in some magazine illustrations,
and much catalogue work where a realistic,
or photographic effect is the chief aim.
See Figs. 103 and 93. A pleasing com-
promise between the strictly decorative and
the absolutely photographic can be seen in
Fig. 45, where line effect is used for shad-

CouTtesy of Stern Bros.
-Half-tone catalogue drawing, also used for magazine
advertisement.

Page Fifty-two

METHODS

Fig. 82. — Pen and ink pattern catalogue drawing.

Courtesy of Butterick.

ing, the flat washes being put on over the
charcoal drawing. The mistake, however,
of mixing these two styles in one drawing
must be avoided.

In instructing a class it is well for the
teacher to give some simple problems to
be done in two or more values of wash.
Many good examples of this method are
to be found in Composition by Arthur Dow.

In considering methods the student must
keep in mind what the purpose of his
finished work is and then use the method
which is best adapted to that end. But
while this is true he must not let the
method he is using interfere with the ex-
pression of his own style and individuality
of work.

In doing brush work with ink, see Fig.

BRUSH WORK

Page Fifty-three

Fig. 83. — Magazine pen

86, it is well first to become acquainted
with this medium and method, on some
practice paper. The decorative effect of
good spotting is very important, for the
finished composition, and the student is
again referred to Composition by Arthur
Dow, a careful perusal of which will do

Courtesy of Rawak Hats.

and ink advertising.

much for a more comprehensive under-
standing of the possibilities there de-
scribed and illustrated. These can in
many instances be applied to fashion
work. Fig. 73 and 83 are examples of
fashion sketches where good spotting has
been obtained with brush work.

Page Fifty -four

METHODS

THE

BVEIVINO

MAIL,

DECEMBER 19 1911

»

1 WANAMAKER'S

1 WANAMAKER-S

1 WANAMAKER'S

1 WANAMAKERS

1 Bio«dw«jr-Ei«hth to Tfnth St.

W\)t Wiammaktv Cfjrigtmasf ^ale of iHsJeb l^iam^ anb ^(aper=3^ianos(

Fig. 84. — An original idea for a musical heading.

Cuurtesy of John Wanamater.

Etching is a method lately used in fashion
illustration. Drian and Miss Steinmetz
have both obtained some charming effects in
this way, but it is a difficult and expensive
medium to have reproduced, and for that
reason is not likely to come into general use.

The student is recommended, in fact
urged, to become familiar with the work
and methods used by such artists as Drian,
Soulie, Brunelleschi, Barbier, Lepape,
Erte, McQuin, Steinmetz, Helen Dryden,

Reta Senger, Fern Forrester, Claire Avery,
and the other artists mentioned in the
text, as good examples of the best work is
often the best instructor one could have.

It is still comparatively seldom that the
costume designer or illustrator does much
with textile designing, the field being con-
sidered somewhat apart, but as a change
in these matters appears imminent, it
has seemed expedient to include the method
of procedure.

Fig. 85. — Drawing by Aubrey Beardsley.

Courtesy of Abraham & Straus.
Fig. 86. — Showing how brush work can be
combined with pen and ink.

TEXTILE DESIGNING

Page Fifty-five

° 1

i

4

I Width

Courtesy of Women's Wear.
Fig. 87. — This illustrates the repeat of a design for silk
or cotton printing. The dotted lines are not part of
the design, but are to show that the unit of design is
repeated in the length every three inches.

TEXTILE DESIGNING*

** The kind and color of paper used in sub-
mitting designs is immaterial. But we
would suggest that white be used and the
ground painted in. Tempora paints are
generally used. At least one full repeat
and, if the design be small, two or three
repeats should be shown. The design is
a guide to the printer or weaver and must
clearly indicate how the artist desires the
finished fabric to appear.

" The technique of woven designs is very
complicated, but it is only necessary for
the artist to remember that simple figures
and few colors are best, that the size of
each repeat should never exceed twelve
inches and the repeat is across the web,
not in the length as it is in printing.

" The size of the paper, then, would de-
pend on the size of your design. In order

that you may clearly understand the part
that dimension plays in the commercial
value of a design, we will describe the
roller over which silk fabrics pass in the
process of printing:

*' The roller is 16 inches in circumference
and three-quarters of an inch in thickness.
Its width is immaterial because the widths
of different fabrics vary so greatly. The
pattern to be printed is engraved in the
copper. The roller revolves, takes up the
color from the color box at the bottom;
the color is removed from the smooth

Fig. 88.— Illustrating three kinds of Ben
* This is reprinted through the courtesy of Women's Wear.

Day.

Page Fifty-six

Courtesy of Harper's Bazar.

Fig. 89.— Decorative half-tone treatment used in magazine editorial.

surfaces by the scraper, or 'doctor' at the
side, and remaics only in the indented
portions, which constitute the pattern. The
cloth, passing just above the doctor, takes
up the color that remains in the indented
or engraved portions, and registers the
design.

" A new cylinder, as we have said above,
is 16 inches in circumference. When a
manufacturer wants no more goods printed
from a certain pattern, the cylinder is
polished off and engraved with a new pat-
tern. With each polishing a thickness of
copper is removed, and the circumference
of the cylinder of course grows less. When
a cylinder has been used for a number of
patterns, the circumference has gradually
been reduced from 16 to 15 inches, and when
it becomes less than 15 inches it is junked. ^ FiT 9a

METHOD

"You will see, therefore,
that a pattern (in order to
be mathematically correct)
must either take up the
entire 15 or 16 inches of the
roller, or must repeat an
even number of times with-
in 15 or 16 inches. In
other words, the pattern must
be 15 or 16 inches in length,
or must be repeated at in-
tervals evenly divisible into
15 or 16. A three-inch
repeat would register five
times on the 15-inch roller;
a four-inch repeat four times
on a 16-inch roller; a 5 1 -inch
repeat, three times on on a
16-inch roller; there is prac-
tically no limit to the pos-
sible variations. A 12-inch
repeat, on the other hand,
would be impossible; it would
have to be diminished to

E. M. G. SteinmeU. Courtesy of Vogue.

-Characteristic Editorial wash drawing.

TEXTILE DESIGNING

one-third or one-fourth its size to
become practicable for printing. Most
commercial designers work on a 7|-inch
square for silk.

" The above refers to the printing of
silks. For printing cottons, the same /
process is used. A cotton printing
roller, however, is 18 inches in cir-
cumference when new, and for suc-
ceeding patterns is polished until the cir-
cumference becomes 16 inches. When
designing for cottons, therefore, the
repeat must be figured on the basis
of a 16- to 18-inch cylinder, corre-
sponding to the 15- to 16-inch scale
for silk printing. For example, a three-
inch repeat could be used for silk or
cotton being divisible into either 15 or
18. On the other hand, a six-inch
repeat could be used only for cotton;
it is evenly divisible into 18 but is

Page Fifty-seven

Courtesy of Cheney Brus.

Fig. 92. — Characteristic half-tone magazine advertising.

Courtesy of CrU^on Magazine.
91. — Magazine half-tone pattern drawing.

not evenly divisible into 15 or 16.
An 8|-inch square is the commer-
cial standard for use in cotton design-
ing for dress goods.

" A pattern is expensive in propor-
tion to the elaborateness of the
engraving and the number of colors
used. It is commercially important,
therefore, that the arrangement of
colors be effective and the actual
number of them be kept down.
It is better to limit the number
of colors, if possible, to five or less
although more colors can be used.
This refers both to silk and cotton.

" With no wish to restrict the art-
ist, we suggest that museums and
libraries be often consulted for ideas
and we feel that the artist may
with profit give some thought to
the condition of mind of the women
of America. For this is always

Page Fifty -eight

METHOD

Fig. 93. — Illustrating steps in a conventional wash catalogue drawing.

Courtesy of Henry Soncit:

of great importance in determining the
sale of decorated fabrics. Endeavor to
make designs that are beautiful and
original at the same time they are
appropriate to certain definite fabrics.
Remember that a design may be intri-
cate and not beautiful, may even be
beautiful and not appropriate. Do not
be afraid to be simple and do not merely

copy.

Keep in mind that a textile design is not

a picture, seen on a flat surface, but the
decoration of a garment which will fall
in folds. Visualize your design in the
fabric, made up as some part of a woman's
costume. That is the test of a good design."
The chapters on Color, Design and
Period Fabric Design should be care-
fully consulted in connection with the
mechanical method given above in re-
gards to Textile Designing. For general
Theory of Design such books as Design

* In designing, scale of color and texture must not be overlooked. Certain colors that are too brilliant or crude for
indoors are appropriate for sport wear out of doors; where the scale of everything is greater.

TEXTILE DESIGNING

Page Fifty-nine

Fig. 94. Crayon pencil sketches.

Courtesy ot Ladies Home Journal.
Fig. 95.

in Theory and Practice and Principles of
Design by Ernest Batchelder, Handbook
of Ornament by F. S. Meyer, Decorative
Design by Joseph Cummings Chase,
Theory of Pure Design by Denman Ross,
200 Units of Design (plates), Henry
Warren Poor, and Plant Form and Design
by A. E. V. Lilley and W. M. Midgley
will all be found helpful to the student.

The peasant design must not be over-
looked and such books as "A Magyar
Nep Miiveszete," Molonyay, in four vol-
umes, Peasant Art in Austria Hungary,
Peasant Art in Sweden, Lapland and
Iceland, and Peasant Art in Russia,
edited by Charles Holme, will be found
an inspiration to designers and stu-
dents.

Accessories drawn by Claire Avery.

Courtesy oj Vogue.

From an etchmg by E. M. A. Steinmetz.

Courtesy of Harver's

COLOR

CHAPTER FOUR

h

CHAPTER FOUR

COLOR

31. General Theory. — The most con-
venient and general theory * about color
is that based on the three primaries, red,
yellow, and blue. As these colors can-
not be reproduced by the mixture or
combination of any other colors, they are
said to be pure or simple colors, i.e.,
primaries.

The secondary or binary colors are
orange, green, and purple. These are
made by mixing two of the primary colors
together. This mixture forms the com-
plement of the remaining primary. Binary
colors are halfway between the primaries
on the color chart.

Red and blue make purple, the com-
plement of yellow, and directly opposite
yellow on the color circle.

Blue and yellow make green, the com-
plement of red, and directly opposite red
on the color circle.

Yellow and red make orange, the com-
plement of blue, and directly opposite
blue on the color circle.

Complementary colors, being directly
opposite in the spectrum circuit, are
wholly unrelated in their normal intensity.
They show strong contrast and enrich
each other. See Fig. 96.

A color mixed with its complement
makes gray.

* Another Theory: There is another color theory which
declares the elements of color to be red, green, and violet-
blue. This is based on spectrum analysis instead of
pigments and is preferred by some authorities. It changes
the color wheel somewhat, regarding colors and their
complements, making red the complement of blue-green,
green the complement of red-purple, and violet-blue the
complement of yellow.

For further explanation see A Color Notation by A. H.
Munsell.

The coldest color is blue and the warmest
is its complement, orange, which is the
farthest away from blue in the color
wheel.

Tertiary Colors are those formed by
the mixture of the secondary colors.
Thus, green mixed with purple makes
olive; orange mixed with green makes
the tertiary citrine; and orange mixed
with purple gives russet.

The more a color is grayed the more
neutral it becomes.

By normal color is meant the foundation
color of a scale of tone, the tones getting
darker or lighter from this foundation.

By tone is meant the modification of
any normal color by the addition of
black or white.

By tint is meant the light tone of
any color (formed by the adding of white
or water to a standard color),

By shade is meant the dark tone ^f
any color (formed by the adding oi
dark or black to a standard color).

By scale of color is meant the grada-
tion of a series of tones of the same color
from the lightest tint through the normal
or pure color to the darkest shade.

By hue is meant the departure from
the original scale of a certain color, to
a greater or less degree, by the addition
of a comparatively small proportion of
another color. For hue think around the
color sphere; the even steps between the
binary and adjacent primary in the color
sphere is called the hue. Thus the step
between blue and green is blue-green,
between green and yellow, yellow-green,
both hues of green. In the same way

Page Sixty-four

COLOR

there are two hues of violet, two of orange,
and two of red. To change a color to
a hue add the next-door neighbor (any
color between two primaries), that is,
change its place on the spectrum.
By intensity or chroma is meant the

think up and down the color sphere;
yellow is lightest, violet darkest, in value.
32. Harmonies of Likeness. — Har-
monies of likeness may be classified as:
1. Monochromatic, i.e., a group of dif-
ferent tones, values or intensifies of one

Drawing by Reta Senger.

Fig. 97.-

Courtesy o/Good Houaekeeptng.
-Editorial magazine fashion work in which color Ben Day is used.

strength or brilliancy of a color. For
intensity think inward or across the
sphere. To change intensity, add the
complementary color; in other words,
gray it.

By value is meant the amount of dark
or light expressed by a color. For value,

color. This is sometimes called a one
mode harmony.

2. Analogous, i.e., made by colors that
are next to each other in the color circle,
and are harmonious because they have,
in different quantities, a common element.

3. Dominant Harmony, i.e., several colors

HARMONIES OF DIFFERENCE

Page Sixty-five

all influenced or subdued by the same
color.

33. Harmonies of Difference. — The har-
monies of difference are: 4. (a) Comple-
mentary, i.e., two complementary colors
used together with some unifying ele-
ment, by the mixing of the one with the
other or by mixing a little gray with
both.

(&) Split complementary harmony, i.e.,
the combination of a primary with the
two colors on each side of its secondary
complement; as yellow combined with
redrviolet, and blue-violet, or blue com-
bined with yellow-orange and red-orange,
or red combined with yellow-green and
blue-green. Always begin on the pri-
mary and split on the complement; never
split a primary color.

(c) Double complementary harmony, i.e.,
that made by the combination of two colors
side by side on the color wheel with their
direct opposites, as, for instance, violet
and blue-violet with yellow and yellow-
orange.

5. Triad Harmony, i.e., any harmony of
three colors that make an equilateral tri-
angle in the spectrum circle. Example:
yellow-orange, blue-green and red-violet.
In producing triad harmony, use hues
and neutralize to make them harmonious.
Only one of the three should be wholly
intense.

34. Laws for the Use of Color.— Law
governing intensity. The larger the area
the less intense the color must be and
the smaller the area the more intense the
color may be.

Law of background. — Backgrounds must
be more neutral than objects shown upon
them.

Neutralization. — Three parts yellow and

* It is not well to combine colors in their full

one part violet makes a neutralized yellow
or gray-yellow.

Three parts violet and one part yellow
makes a neutralized violet or gray- violet
halfway between violet and gray. This
is true of the other colors.*

35. The Color Chart. — To make a color
circle which is composed of the full in-
tense primary colors, yellow, red, and
blue, and full intense binary or sec-
ondary colors, orange, green, and violet,
and the full, intense intermediate hues,
yellow-orange, yellow-green, blue-green,
blue-violet, red-violet and red-orange,
with the inner circle showing these colors
half neutralized and the center neutral
gray, a paper should be used which holds
water color (a "Keystone" Student's
Drawing Block nine by twelve is good),
on which to make the washes. These
may be put on in small areas from two
to four inches square. Satisfactory colors
to use for this chart are Winsor & Newton's
Gamboge for yellow, Winsor & Newton's
Alizarine Crimson mixed with Milton
Bradley's Standard Red for red, Winsor
& Newton's New Blue for blue, Winsor
& Newton's Cadmium Orange and Stand-
ard Red for orange. New Blue and Milton
Bradley's Standard Green for green, and
Milton Bradley's Standard Violet for
violet.

(Don't mix standard red, standard
green, or standard violet with other colors
for use, except on the chart. They stain
and settle. They can be used satisfactorily
only in small areas. The ten-cent tube
is the size to obtain for the color chart
— the Winsor & Newton colors ditter in
price and are more expensive. These are
the colors that seem the best to obtain
the desired result.)

intensity unless relieved by black or white.

Page Sixty-six

COLOR

To obtain the hues such as yellow orange,
it is understood that a little yellow is
added to the orange, for yellow-green a
little yellow to the green, while for blue-
green a little blue is added to the green,
etc. The colors of the inner circle, which
are known as colors at their half intensity,
as, for instance, gray-orange or gray-yellow,
are obtained by mixing the color with its
complement. For example, about three
parts yellow plus one part violet makes
a neutralized yellow or gray-yellow. On
the other hand, three parts violet plus one
part yellow equals gray-violet, and this is
true of all the other colors. The three
primaries mixed give the center, neutral
gray. (Alizarine crimson, gamboge and
new blue.)

Taking a neutral scale showing nine
degrees of value from white to black, the
equivalent color values should be found
for the color chart; as for example, the

Yellow

Yellow-Orange 1
Yellow- Green J
Orange |
Green j
Red-Orange
Blue-Green
Red 1
Blue J
Red-Violet
Blue- Violet
Violet

W. White

H. L. High Light

Light

L. L. Low Light

M. Middle

H. D. High Dark

D. Dark

Low Dark
B. Black

This value scale should be used in
selecting colors in order to keep them
keyed correctly together according to
value.

Practice on the paper in these small
squares about three inches in size until
satisfactory results. are obtained; do not
get your paint on too thick or too thin.
Be sure your brush is perfectly clean and
get one color at a time, always making
four or five squares that you may be sure
to obtain a satisfactory value for your
choice of color. After you have finished
cut your squares out and compare them
with your value scale; half closing your
eyes often helps this comparison. When
a satisfactory selection has been made,
use either a quarter, a nickel, or a dime,
according to the size of the chart you
wish to make and put these over the
smoothest part of the washes, draw with
a sharp pencil a circle, with the coin as
a guide, and then cut out the colored
discs. A compass should be used to
make a guiding line for the placement of
these small discs, which should be done
very carefully. A good library paste
should be used to mount the discs.

36. Significance of Color. — In Prin-
ciples of Advertising Arrangement the author
says: "Color is one of the most interest-
ing and important elements in nature,
because the eye, the organ of one of
the five senses of man, sees nothing
but color. Form, as we call it, is seen
only because one color is placed against
another and by its position and contrast
makes a shape. And every tone of color
has a separate meaning — yellow speaks a
definite thing to those who understand it.
Blue cannot say what yellow says —
neither can red or violet."

In a folder gotten up by the Art in
Trades Club of New York City, valuable
information was given in a strikingly simple
and concise way under the heading, The

SOURCES OF COLOR SCHEMES

Page Sixty-seven

Principles of Color Harmony, which reads
as follows:

" Psychological Significance. — Color, as
it varies in hue, value and intensity, by
its intrinsic qualities and the association
of ideas, excites certain definite thoughts
and feelings in the human mind.

Hues. — Blue — cold, formal and distant.

Green — cool and restful.

Yellow — cheerful, brilliant and unify-
ing.

Red — warm, rich and aggressive.

Orange — hot, striking, but decorative.

Violet — mournful, mystic, and darken-
ing.

Value. — Light color tones express youth,
femininity, gayety and informality.

Dark color tones express strength, dig-
nity, repose, and seriousness.

Intensity. — Colors in their full intensity
are strong, loud, vital, and elemental in
feeling.

Colors that have been neutralized ex-
press subtlety, refinement and charm.

Balance in Color Harmony. — Colors to
balance in harmony must be similar in
intensity and area. If dissimilar, the in-
tensity must vary in inverse proportions
to the area.

Backgrounds should be less intense than
objects to be shown on them." (It is not
well to figure a whole warm object on a
cold background.)

37. Sources of Color Schemes. — Many
are the designer's sources for color schemes.
With the knowledge of what harmony
consists in, he may go to nature and find
an endless variety in the animal, mineral,
bird, reptile and flower kingdoms, and
in atmospheric effects. Or he may go
to museums and study china and glass
and textiles, such as tapestries, rugs and

old embroidery and laces. Again, he may
go to picture galleries and get inspira-
tions from old and new Japanese prints
and from old and new masters in art.
See illustration of the gown adaptation
from Whistler's Nocturne, Fig. 102.

In deciding what colors are becoming;
it must be remembered that a color not
only reflects its own tint on the face of
the wearer, but also its complement (this
is called simultaneous contrast) . Therefore,
the eyes, hair, and skin of the wearer must
be considered and such a color for the
dress chosen as will neither give the per-
son a faded, ghastly tinge nor too harsh
and florid an appearance, but which will
enhance his or her particular beauty. In
large areas neutralized colors are always
best — avoid the harshness of too much
intensity.

A very ugly combination may result
from putting together two different hues
of the same color. Simultaneous contrast
can take place with a disastrous result.
This is often what we mean when we
say one blue kills another or one red kills
another red. On account of this matter
of hue, things that are the same color
but of a different hue do not always
harmonize.

Be careful about using together colors
of the same intensity, unless both or one
is much neutralized. It is usually more
satisfactory to use the more brilliant
color in the smaller quantity.

Modern colors have taken on many
titles which they change from season to
season, and which, while catering to the
imagination of the public are quite over-
whelming. This is wittily expressed in
the following quotation from Dr. Frank
Crane.

Page Sixty-eight

COLOR

MODERN COLOR

BY

Dr. Frank Crane

"Yes," said the saleslady, "we have all the new oflBcial
Panama Exposition colors!"

"For instance?"

"Well, there's flagpole red, wall blue, exposition gold,
travertine, lattice green, and "

"But haven't you anything in just plain colors — red,
green, or yellow and so on?"

"Oh, no!"

"Aren't those reds over there?"

"We don't say red, you know, any more."

"What then?"

"Well, this is cerise and those are raspberry, brick
dust, cardinal, crushed strawberry, carnation, and — let
me see — this is old rose, this is ashes of roses, this is
watermelon, this is sunset pink."

"You interest me. How about blues?"

"Why, there is navy blue, and Copenhagen blue, and
Alice Blue, and old blue, and ultramarine blue, and sky
blue, and robin's egg blue, and "

"That's enough. I'm afraid you'll say Monday blue.
Tell me some yellows."

"Oh, lots of them! Straw, champagne, dust, tan, ca-
nary, lemon, orange, tango, sand, and so on."

"Goodness!"

"Then we have in greens, Nile green, parrot green,
lettuce green, Alice green, emerald green, Irish green.
Reseda and others."

ir

>^

Fig. 98. — The reproduction from the color plate.

CouTtesv of Criterion Magazine.

SOURCES OF COLOR SCHEMES

Page Sixty-nine

"Isn't there any such thing as just plain, ordinary
green?"

"Oh no! It 's the shade, you know. Here, for example,
are elephant's breath gray, and taupe."

"Indeed!"

"Yes; and then all the flower colors are represented —
rose, violet, lavender, wistaria, nasturtium, pansy, daf-
fodil, American Beauty, cherry blossom, and poppy

"Charming! They appeal to the imagination."
"Precisely. Half of the color-pleasure of dress goods
is the pleased fancy. We strive for the unique, such as

wood shades — walnut brown, mahogany, oak, and chest-
nut; bird colors, such as coxcomb, chanticleer, dove,
canary, yellow and parrot green; jewel tints, as ruby,
sapphire, pearl, amber, topaz, coral, jade, and turquoise
blue."

"I am overwhelmed.''

"Oh, there are others — the most fantastic. You can
have a claret necktie, a flame ribbon, laces of ivory or
Isabella, a sash of cream, coffee, or chocolate color; a
gown of mouse gray or steel gray, and other articles of
your apparel, to assist you to perfect self-expression.
Maybe the color of pomegcteiate, apple green, fawn, delfl

Fig. 89.-

Courtesy of CriteTion Magazine.
-Reproduction showing the combination printing from the two plates.

Page Seventy

COLOR

blue, lapis lazuli, taffy, salt and pepper, mustard, cinna-
mon, mud, stone, cabbage, putty, string color, or wine
color, besides Indian red or Pompeian red, sea green or
pea green ! "

" Thanks ! I think I'll take some ribbons, some of those
advertised as "distinctly American in nomenclature" 5
give me some Palm Beach, Piping Rock, Tuxedo brown,
Arizona silver, Gettysburg gray, Oregon green, Delaware
peach, Newport tan, and Rocky Mountain blue, if you
please."

38. Applying Colors. — In painting, be-
gin at the top and color downward, from
your left to your right. The edge of a
color may be softened by a clean, damp
brush; this is necessary in doing velvets.
"Where shiny taffeta is desired, let the
paints dry in a harder line to give crisp-
ness and do not work over while still wet.

Cold colors serve as shadows to warmer
colors and should be laid on first; gen-
erally, warm colors over cold should be
the rule. After the sketch is finished
and dry, unfinished-looking darks can be
picked up with some darker darks and
the high lights on the edges of coats,
pockets, tucks, etc., can be brought out
by thin, steady, crisp Chinese w^hite
lines when detail is desired.

Prussian Blue, Lake, and Sepia mixed
make gray. One way of graying, or
neutralizing, a color is by adding a little
of its complement; but Payne's Gray
and black are often of value for this use
in dressmakers' sketches and commercial
drawings.

All brushes must be kept clean and rinsed
after use. Never leave them in the water.
Take plenty of color in your brush and
try first on a piece of spare paper to see
that you have the right tone and that
the brush is not too wet or too dry.

WTien you intend covering a space with
a flat tone, have enough color mixed to
go from the top to the bottom and from

*See

side to side without doing any more
mixing or dipping your brush again in
the water. Have the drawing board tilted
toward you and enough color in your
brush to ensure its keeping the little
rivulet going without the danger of dry
spots. For practice work it is well to
make some eight-inch squares and to try
covering their surfaces with a uniform
tone.

When you are making a dressmaker's
sketch in white, it is sometimes helpful to
put a little color in the background, up on
one side and down on the other, not mak-
ing it too intense, and taking care to
soften the edge.

When wishing to work in opaque (or
body color), add a little Chinese White
to your color. This is often useful for
reproduction. What are known as Devoe's
Show Card Colors are good for tempera
fashion work. Theatrical costume designs
are often carried out in this way.*

Thompson's White has a stiff quality
which makes it of value in doing dress-
makers' sketches, where raised buttons,
beads, embroidery, lace, etc., are desired.
Put it on rather dry and let it stand
until all moisture seems gone before touch-
ing up these buttons, beads, or lace with
color, gold or silver. Ink is often used
with color, both for dressmakers' sketches
and for reproduction.

Have your sketch always carefully made
in pencil, putting in the details last.
Put in your big washes first and keep the
whole sketch going, being particular not
to concentrate too much on any one
part. Avoid " niggling "; keep your wash
clean and bold.

Oramge Vermilion makes good flesh
tones — vermilion, good lips and color in

Page Nine.

COLORS

Page Seventy-one

cheeks. There are two ways of putting
this color on; one by putting the orange
vermilion in a very light tone over all
the flesh and then, when dry, adding the
desired color to the cheeks (preferably
having it high on the cheek bone) and
quickly soft^ening the edge; the other
way by stippling or putting on the added
color with the tiny point of the brush
while the all-over flesh tone is still
wet.

Always remember that colors dry much
lighter. Blue and bluish gray make good
shadows for white. In doing a dress-
maker's sketch in dark blue or black,
always keep the color transparent and
lighter than the real material, though
having the same effect, so that the detail
will be shown.

The following supplies will be found
useful in doing this kind of water-color
work :

Colors. — Winsor & Newton colors are
preferred. Less expensive but good stu-
dent's colors are Devoe and Favor Ruhl.
It is best to buy the box separately and
fill it with the colors desired. Tubes dry
up, therefore, unless colors are to be used
constantly or in quantitj^ it is more eco-
nomical to buy half pans, with the excep-

tion of black and white; these should
be bought in the tubes.

One should have Prussian Blue and
either New Blue, Cobalt, or Ultramarine,
Payne's Gray, Emerald Green, Hooker's
Green 1, Hooker's Green 2, Lemon Yellow,
Yellow Ochre, Naples Yellow, Raw Sienna,
Burnt Sienna, either Rose Madder, Car-
mine or Crimson Lake, Vermilion, Orange
Vermilion, Mauve, Sepia, Van-Dyck
Brown, Gold, and Silver. In tubes, Lamp-
black and \Miite, and Thompson's White
if raised work is desired. This list is
found convenient in saving the time of
mixing in doing dressmakers' colored
sketches.

The best colors to get in the Devoe
Show Card list are White, Light Yellow,
Orange, Light Red, Magenta, Mauve,
Dark Blue, Light Blue, and Green. Some
artists use letterine when a shiny finish
is wanted.

Brushes. Rubens, and Winsor & New-
ton red sable brushes are recommended.
Good sizes for fashion work are Nos. 3
and 4, and 6 and 7. Devoe or some less
expensive brushes should be used for ink,
Chinese white, gold, and silver, which
are injurio\is to brushes. Bristle brushes
are good for a steady, broad line.

®y^

Drawn by Robert Henry for Felix Jungmann & Cie., Paris.

-<^x«)

C.BflR8;E.R x^lJ

CouTtesv of Vogue, New York Rcpresmtalltes
the Gaiette du Bon Ton.

LES COLCHIQUES

Manteau de voyage de Paquin

From a color illustration by George Barbier.

DESIGN

CHAPTER FIVE

CHAPTER FIVE

DESIGN

39. Fundamentals of Good Design. —

Order is the law of all design, No matter
how far we allow our fancy to go, we should
never lose sight of the
principles of design; 6a/-
-imce, rhythm, and harmony.
Furthermore, we should
always aim at simplicity
and appropriateness.

Like the architect, we
should study ancient and
mediaeval examples as well
as later ones. Like his,
cur problem is two-fold:
First, to find out the best
and most beautiful that
can be conceived, and
second, to adapt it to our
own present-day needs.

Great heed must be
given, fundamentally, to
personal characteristics.
The materials used for
comfort or ornament can
then be so chosen and so
treated as to neutralize
individual defects or de-
ficiencies and to enhance
every good point.*

40. Facts Always to be
Kept in Mind. — Common
sense and observation
show that stout people
should avoid large head

^ decorations, and hats which
make a person appear
shorter than their real height, as they
enlarge the head proportion. They
should also avoid sleeves that are very

Courtesy of Mile JacQueline.
Fig. 100. — Hat inspired by a bowl
of crocuses.

full at the shoulder and skirts that

are very narrow at the bottom, as these

accentuate the size of the hips and trunk.

Horizontal lines make

the figure look shorter

and stouter; the shorter

the vertical lines are

made, the shorter the

person will seem. Bands

of contrasting tone or

color accentuate the line

effect. Stout people should

avoid large figured goods

and materials too bright

or too light in color.

Thin people with very
narrow, sloping shoulders
should avoid the exagger-
ated kimona and shoulder
seams drooping over the
arm, and should keep to
the horizontal shoulder
lines, if they do not wish
to emphasize this personal
characteristic.

Tall, thin people should
avoid long vertical lines
such as very definite or
large stripes, for these lines
accentuate height. This
is not true of inconspicu-
ous stripes. They should
avoid a coat line which
cuts them into awkward
lengths Remember the
Greek law: When two
lines are in good relation to each other,
the shorter comes between one-half and
two-thirds of the longer line.

* " Woman as Decoration " by Emily Burbank, will be found profitable reading in this connection.

Page Seventy-six

DESIGN

Tall, thin people should
avoid narrow-chested effects
and clothes that fit too
tightly.

Everybody should beware
of too conspicuous plaids and
stripes or figured materials.
As a rule do not combine
large figured materials with
small figured materials.*

Small people, when se-
lecting figured goods for themselves,
should always get small figured materials,
emphasizing their daintiness. Note this
even in plain stuffs, as, for instance,
how a narrow-ribbed corduroy suits a
small person better than a wide-ribbed one.

Figured, striped, or plaid materials,
which approach plain material, will stand
more trimming than those in which the
designs are emphatically decorative.

Equal or nearly equal amounts of dark
and light are unsatisfactory unless they
approach an "all-over" tone.

When other things are equal, square

Fig. 101. — Gowns that are in style to-
day were in vogue five thousand years
ago as a study of the figures at the
Metropolitan Museum, New York,
will show.

Courtesy of New York Evenini World.

shoulders give one an ap-
pearance of being taller than
sloping shoulders, and the
higher the waist line the
greater the apparent height .
A narrow belt makes the
waist appear smaller and
longer, whereas a wide girdle
gives the appearance of a
broader, shorter waist (if
above the waist line).
Over-decoration is always bad.
Broken line effects are always bad.
(As, for example, waists and skirts with
seemingly no connection.)

A continuation of waist line into the
skirt is good.

Light colors near the face are good.
When one striking note of color is used
(as in a belt), it should have a repetition
elsewhere (as in a touch on the sleeve
and waist).

41. Sources of Designs. Bearing the
foregoing facts in mind, we may draw our
inspiration from museums, libraries, things

* Never mix scale in design.

SOURCES OF DESIGNS

Page Seventy-seven

in nature, or from any source that appeals
to us, and start our design. See Fig. 101.

Fig. 100 shows us how
Mile. Jacqueline found
her inspiration for a hat
in a bowl of tulips. As
for the first prize evening
dress of the Times Prize
Contest for Original Amer-
ican Designs, made by
the writer and shown by
Fig. 102, the Times has
given the following de-
scription of its source.

Whistler s well-known Nocturne
furnished the inspiration for this
evening gown, which owes its
distinction to subtlety of color
and grace of line. It is, unfortu-
nately, impossible in a sketch to
do justice to the extraordinary
feeling for color which the de-
signer has shown in her selection
and handling of materials, be-
cause she has obtained her effect
by using semitransparent color
over contrasting color.

She has secured a faithful echo
of the Nocturne's blue-green,
gray-brown harmonies by laying
pastel-blue chiffon, faintly green
tinged, over putty color. The
girdle is in a deeper green-blue
and its Oriental embroidery is
worked out in blues and gold and
the vivid flame color of which
there is one single glint in the
Whistler picture.

Another note of blue is sounded
in the necklace of wooden beads,
the smaller beads catching up the
wing shoulder draperies.

The waist made for the
Ladies^ Home Journal,
shown in Fig. 103, was
suggested by the Lily of the Valley. Fig.
99, Pattern No. 8082, in the Criterion,

Cuuru^y uj iSew York Times.
Fig. 102. — Design for an evening dress in-
spired by "A Nocturne" in Tate Gallery
by Whistler.

was adapted from an Arizona pine, and
Fig. 99, Pattern No. 8079, from a Hopi
Indian woman's dress.

If the designer's imag-
ination needs stimulating
to get away from the
commonplace, see what
music or poetry will do
to help. Notice how,
when either are sad, one
thinks in subdued grays
and violets and dull blues;
when they are joyous,
pinks, yellows and less
somber colors come into
one's mind.*

The designer has such
an immense store-house
from which to draw that,
when his eyes are once
opened to the endless
treasures that are wait-
ing to inspire him, his
world is as full of wonders
as the vaulted chambers
of the Forty Thieves, or
the untold treasures in
the cavern of Aladdin.

Appreciation is needful
and it is necessary to
gain this love and under-
standing of the beautiful
which really comprises
what we call taste. We
should know something
of the art of the past
as well as the costumes
of these periods, so rich
in material is that of the
Egyptians, Greeks, Ro-
mans, Assyrians, and Byzantines, as
well as that of the cruder times of the

*Paul Poiret truthfully says "There are gowns which express joy of life; those which announce catastrophe; gowns that weep;
gowns romantic; gowns full of mystery; and gowns for the Third Act."

Page Seventy-eight

DESIGN

Gauls and Franks. Beginning with the
French costumes of the fifth century
and the Enghsh after the Norman Con-
quest in the eleventh century, we come
down the centuries with a wonderful un-
folding of both beau-
ty and eccentricity of
design.

There are many
wonderful costume
books that may be
consulted by the
designer with both
enjoyment and profit.
A fairly compre-
hensive list of these
will be found on
pages 127 and 128.

42. Hats.— Wlien
seen from the side,
the lines of the crown
of the hat should not
extend beyond the
line of the forehead
nor beyond the hair
in the back. If the
hair extends far in
the back, the hat
should come between
the head and end of
the hair in order prop-
erly to balance with
the spinal column.

People with small
or narrow faces
require smaller hats than those with
large faces, to whom larger hats are
becoming. Care should be taken not to
accentuate undesirable lines or features
by too strong repetition or opposition.
Try rather to neutralize such.

The milliner's problem is allied to that

Courtesy of Ladles' Home Journal.
Fig. 103. — Green and white blouse inspired by a lily
of the valley.

from the chin to

of the sculptor in so much as the effect
is to be viewed from every side and, ac-
cording to Beau Brummel, the most
important part of a woman's hat is the
back. Beside this, the laws of propor-
tion demand that we
consider not alone
the relation of the
hat to the head, but
also the relation cf
the head and hat to
the entire figure.
(For illustration,
headgear too large
for the figure gives
a clumsy, awkward
appearance.)

Thus, no matter
what fashion decrees,
the law of proper
proportions for every
individual should be
sought out and
obeyed, even if it
brings about a dis-
agreement with the
prevailing modes.

43. Designing
Hats.— The height
of any hat, generally
speaking, should not
be more than three-
quarters the depth of
the face. (That is,
the length of the face
the eyebrows.) The
greatest width of a wide hat should not
exceed three times the width of the
wearer's face, including the ears and the
hair at the sides of the head. The greater
width is often at the left side.

The crown of a hat is very important

DESIGNING HATS

Page Seventy-nine

and must appear to cover the head and of clothes as studies in the flat and must
also any puffs of hair. People with large aim to make them please from every

side. At the
same time we
must not lose

heads should
not wear hats
with small
crowns. On the
other hand,
people with
long, thin faces,
and plainly
arranged hair
should not wear
hats with
crowns wider
than the width
of their faces
and hair. If we
are ever to
overcome our
bromidic ten-
dency in dress,
we shall have
to cultivate an
appreciation of
personality and
character and
become so in-
terested in type
that we will
resist our hith-
erto sheep-like
tendency to
follow the

modes, even when they distort and cari-
cature us.

The designs shown in Fig. 104 were
made by Kelly for the Globe. In designing
we must get away from the consideration

sight of unity
and must never
let distracting
details interfere
with the centre
of interest
which is usually
the head. In
other words, we
should aim to
make personality
dominate the
clothes.

For a most
telling illustra-
tion of this
last point,
study the paint-
in gs of Rem-
brandt. Note
how all his
wonderfully
thought-out
textures and
tones of gar-
ments are made
subs er vient
to his char-
acterization, how all these lead up to the
head and face and seem arranged to per-
fectly reveal the individuality of the
sitter, his occupation, his walk in life, and
his inmost character.

Scale must be considered in the combination of textures, for instance crystal bugles and pearl trimming
that could be successfully combined with delicate chiffons or silk would be wholly inappropriate with serge, while an
Indian bead ornament that would be suitable with the serge would be out of place with the chiffon. Fluffy chiffon and
lacy things or baby pinks or blues are out of place with tailored or mannish things. These points should be given
serious consideration in connection with such accessories as parasols, hats, shoes, gloves, jewelry and dress trimmings.

Some books that bear directly on designing are Principles of Correct Dress by Florence Hull Winterburn, Color Harmo-
nies in Dress by G. A. Audsley, What Dress Makes of Us by Dorothy Quigley, Textile and Costume Designing by Ellisworth.

ic. 104.

Courtesy of New York Globe.
Drawing in which wash pencil, craj-on pencil and pen
and ink are combined.

Robe d inteneur

Courtesy of Vogue, New York represeniattve of the i
From a color illustration by George Lepape,

THE FASHION SILHOUETTE

CHAPTER SIX

CHAPTER SIX

THE FASHION SILHOUETTE *

44. Value of the Silhouette.— The Sil-
houette is the foundation of all fashions,
and it is most interesting to study its
varied aspect through the centuries. Taken
in a literal sense, it so simplifies the cos-
tumes of the period
that the many errors
now seen in the cos-
tume world are un-
necessary to even the
novice. Much less
necessary are the glar-
mistakes

Fig. 105. — ^The gorget.

mg mistaKes we now
see in print in regard
to Moyen Age and Renaissance costumes,
as well as those of the eighteenth and
nineteenth centuries, that period of much
uncertainty about the hoop and Empire,
the crinoline and bustle. For
this reason it seems advantage-
ous, as well as interesting, to
become thoroughly familiar with
costume silhouettes of all ages.

The silhouette classifies, sim-
plifies, and so condenses details
that both time and trouble are
saved. Curiously enough, this
saving is what its name sig-
nifies, as it is taken from the
name of Etienne de Silhouette,
Minister of Finance to France
in 1759, whose public economy in trying
to avert national bankruptcy during the
reign of Louis XV caused his name to
be given to things ostensibly economical.

45. Twelfth to Fifteenth Centuries.—
To begin with, let us glance at Fig. 110,

Fig. 107.— The
wimple.

Fig. 106.— XV Century
horned head-dress.

centuries (the tenth and eleventh were
so nearly like the twelfth and thirteenth
that drawings are omitted) .
The effect is of everything
hung from the shoulder
and all garments rather
loose. The head was usually
more or less bound or wrap-
ped around, though at
certain times in certain
localities the hair was worn
in long braids. The four-
teenth century shows the
innovation of scallops, the
fifteenth the increased length of hats and
shoes, but in spite of these touches all
belong to the Moyen Age, to things that
are Gothic.

It is interesting to see these
clothes so beautifully described
in the Gothic Tapestries and
illuminated books of the time
and the efiSgies in churches.
See Fig. 108. In the eleventh
century the wimple was wound
around the head, not allowing
the hair to show; about a
hundred years later came the
fashion of the chin band and
forehead-strap. See Fig. 107.
The hair was still hidden by the
A hundred years later and this
earlier headdress had been followed by the
gorget — a piece of linen wrapped about
the neck halfway framing the face. See
Fig. 105. Around the wimple was some-
times tied a silk band called a snood. The
gown was still long and loose at the waist

wimple.

starting with the twelfth and thirteenth

* This chapter is reprinted through courtesy of the New York Globe.

Page Eighty-four

THE FASHION SILHOUETTE

Fig. 108. — Showing the houppelande or XV Century robe. Tlie Giving of the Rose, a Gothic decorative
tapestry at Metropolitan Museum.

with sometimes a girdle, remaining so
until the fifteenth century.

46. Religious Orders. A picturesque
touch of this early costume may be noted
today in the dress of the nuns and sisters.
The Dominican nuns wear practically
the same garb as when their order was
instituted by Saint Dominic in 1218,
including the rosary, which was his in-
novation. Many religious orders were
founded in the eleventh, twelfth, thir-
teenth, and fourteenth centuries as, for

example, the Sisterhood of the Annunci-
ation at Bourges by St. Jeanne de Valois,
daughter of Louis XI of France. Today
they bring to us the legend, beauty and
romance of those dark ages. They breathe
castles, crusades, monasteries, and con-
vents.

In the fifteenth century, as the pointed
arches of the Gothic architecture grew
more pointed, the head covering or hen-
nens (see Figs. 106 and 110) as well as
the shoes followed suit, so that in this

SIXTEENTH CENTURY

Page Eighty-five

century came the high-water mark of
extremes. To this day we find left over
traces of these headdresses in some of the
costumes of the
peasants in re-
mote districts on
the continent.

47. Sixteenth
Century.— The
sixteenth cen-
tury found
great changes,
on sea and land.
Printing had
been invented,
America had
been discovered
and the first
watches made.
The silhouette
was greatly
changed. The
Renaissance
changed the
architecture of
dress as well
as of every-
thing else. Al-
brecht Diirer
has left us
won d erf ul
contemporary
sketches of the
early part of
this century,
the originals of
which are in
Nuremberg, see
Fig. 109.

We are all familiar with the slashed
sleeves of Henry VIH and his queens
(1509-1547) immortalized in the portraits

'%

by Hans Holbein. There was a stiffening
of the figure and a tendency toward the
smaller waistline in the sixteenth century.
- - It might be

well to say
,-^^ . here that in the

twelfth century
lacing is sup-
posed to have
come in. Cal-
throp tells us
in his history
of English
Costume, "Not
that the lacing
was very tight,
but it com-
menced the
habit and the
habit begat the
harm, and the
thing grew un-
til it arrived
finally at the
buckram,
square-built,
cardboard-and-
tissue figure
which titters
and totters
through the
Elizabethan
era." Up to the
fifteenth cen-
tury is notice-
able a sense of
looseness, of
everything
being more or
less supported from the shoulders, giving
the straight lines of the middle ages.
The fifteenth century was transitional;

Courtesy of Art Stvdent Magtuine.
Fig. 109. — Late XV Century costume drawing by Albrecht Diirer.

Page Eighty-six

THE FASHION SILHOUETTE

iHMm

Fig. 110. — How the different centuries affected the fashion silhouette.

Draim by Inez Casseau.

after that the tight, long waists and women of that day. The Puritans and

wide skirts came to stay until the nine- Pilgrims both are distinguished by the

teenth century brought in the Empire costumes prevalent at the time they were

style. organized (period of James I, 1603-1625,

48. Seventeenth and Eighteenth Cen- and Charles I, 1625-1649, of England).

turies. — The Eliza-
bethan high collar was
the forerunner of the
Charles I (1625-1649)
flat collar and cuffs
of which the Crom-
wellian period (1649-
1660) was a simplifica-
tion. The drawings
of Hollar give excel-
lent illustrations of
these. The Quaker
dress is the survival
of the costume of
Charles II period
(1660-1685), although
the hat is minus the
feather — plain linen
takes the place of
lace. The shoes are the
same, but without the
ribbon or roses, really
similar in every way

Fig. 111. — ^Early XVI Century fashion drawing by
Hans Holbein.

The portrait painters
have done nobly in
preserving for us the
fashions of the times
through the costumes
worn by their distin-
guished sitters. Such
men as Velasquez, Van
Dyck, and Rubens in
the seventeenth cen-
tury, and in the eigh-
teenth Watteau,
Fragonard, Nattier,
Romne}', Gainsborough,
Lawrence, Raeburn,
and Sir Joshua Rey-
nolds have left us
valuable documents.

Thus we pass
through the sixteenth
and part of the seven-
teenth centuries,
leaving the time of the

with the extravagance eliminated and Renaissance for the period of the Louis of

simplicity emphasized. The beaver hat France. The stately dignity and truly

and hood of the Quaker, then called the roya' magnificence of Louis XIV was fol-

French hood, were both worn by the lowed by the less formal but luxurious

NINETEENTH CENTURY

Page Eighty-seven

iUil^t

Fig. 112.

Courtesy of London Graphic.

rococo period of Louis XV (1723-1774), the classic revival of the Greek and
when Pompadour and du Barry set the Roman, modified to suit the climate and
styles in the Parisian world of fashion, epoch. This revival was the natural out-
Then followed the reappearance of the come of the interest people were taking

hoop and the more extreme though re-
fined attitude toward dress during the
reign of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette.
In England at this time George III was
reigning (1760-1820) and the Shakers
came to this country
wearing what con-
stitutes their cos-
tume to-day — the
wide, pleated skirt,
bonnet and apron
of the English work-
ing class.

49. Nineteenth
Century.— The
third great change
in the silhouette did
not come until the
Directorate in 1795,
so that the early
nineteenth century

Fig. 113. — Quaint styles of Kate Greenaway.

at that time in- the restoration work of
the buried Pompeian cities, and one
sees in the Empire style the classic type
emphasized. It was an endeavor for
something different, something essentially
new, for anything
suggesting the
former royalty was
frowned upon by
Napoleon. It is in-
teresting to note
that it was back to
this quaint period
that Kate Green-
away (1846-1901)
loved to go for in-
spiration. It was
she who revived
these costumes of
the beginning of the
nineteenth century.

found the narrow skirts and short waists and it is truthfully said in this style, made

conspicuous. See ^rst silhouette of Fig. still more beautiful by her naive touch, she

112. Jacques Louis David, the court painter did dress, and still dresses, the children of

of Napoleon, was a strong influence in two continents. See Figs. 113 and 22.

Page Eighty-eight

We have left now the hoop of the
eighteenth century, and have come to
the nineteenth century with its Empire
and charming 1830 costume, which always
makes one think of nosegays and old-
fashioned valentines (see Fig. 112) and
the crinoline of 1840, which made the
skirt grow wider until 1864. (To get the
atmosphere of this time, look at George
Du Manner's illustrations of Owen Mere-
dith's "Lucile.") Fashion then took a
turn and the skirt began in 1865 to grow
narrower until in the winter of 1869-1870
the bustle and the draped skirts appeared.
In this one century, therefore, with its
narrow skirts, its bell skirts, its wide
skirts, its bustles, and its draped skirts,
there were really many more definite
changes than in the ten centuries of sil-
houettes we have been examining.

While speaking of skirts, small mention
has been made of sleeves, but they sil-

THE FASHION SILHOUETTE

houette quite as well as the other parts
of the costume, with even the added in-
terest of the fact that down through the
centuries the sleeves of men and women
were very much alike, no bigger no
smaller, until the nineteenth century, when
the leg-of-mutton sleeve was affected also
by men. That seems to have been, how-
ever, the time of emancipation, for then
men's sleeves became small and have re-
mained so ever since.

The thirty beautiful little period dolls
in the Metropolitan Museum illustrate
how truly the silhouette has kept for us
the fleeting shadow of the passing cen-
turies. Let us then not deny or push
- aside the silhouette as of small importance.
Historically it is valuable, and the paths
it leads us through in the study of cos-
tume are full of beauty and varied interest.
It is with the silhouette in mind that we
should observe every fashion.

1199 1350 IJ2J 1580 1640 1660 1723 1620

Drawn by Maraaret Calderhead.
How different centuries have affected the silhouette of men.

PERIOD FABRIC DESIGN

CHAPTER SEVEN

CHAPTER SEVEN

PERIOD FABRIC DESIGN

50. Primitive Design. — Primitive de-
sign, often so fresh and simple in treat-
ment and character, does not differ much
in units. The United States Government
pubhshed in 1894 a report that the results
of its researches showed
that the san^e swasticka
used in prehistoric America
had also been found in
India, Eastern Turkestan,
Northern Europe, Southern
Europe, Asia Minor,
Greece, Rome, Northern
Africa and Byzantium. So
much symbolic significance
is often attached, or some
strict religious meaning,
that design is a deep and
interesting subject from an
ethnological point of view,
but "simple pictorial ex-
pressions are of world
usage and are not suffici-
ently intricate to consti-
tute original thought."
In these the student of
design, however, can find
splendid motives for mod-
ern treatment. See Fig. 114. This ma-
terial was designed from a unit on an
Indian basket.

51. Influence in Design. — We know
that the early civilized races had inter-
course, and we see the influence of this
in their designs. We find Greek influence
in the art of China, and for hundreds
of years B.C. the arts of Assyrians, Egyp-
tians, and Persians were allied through

Fig. 114

wars and conquests, and their designs
were often similar.

The affinity between the Art of India
and Japan is close on account of Bud-
dhism, which exercises a strong influence
over both peoples. The
Art of Japan and China
is also somewhat similar;
indeed, at times the dif-
ferences are difficult to
determine. The Japanese
have a greater love for
detail and do not con-
ventionaHze in as broad
a way as the Chinese,
but many of their forms
are identical. It is inter-
esting to know that, where
this is the case, the in-
fluence can be traced to
India.

The Japanese in their
designs show a great love
for nature — flowers, moun-
tains, waves, dragons,
tortoises, etc., and the
method used is usually
picturesque (in spite of
its interesting conventionality) instead of
formal.

52. Early Fabrics and Designs. — In
outlining period fabric design, Egypt must
first be mentioned, where weaving was
known 3000 b.c. Examples of ancient
fabrics dating as far back as 1000 B.C.
can be seen in the Louvre, Paris. While
we know that checkered rugs were woven,
we find that garments during the Old

Drawn and designed by G. Rothschild

Design motive from Indian
basket.

Page Ninety-two

PERIOD FABRIC DESIGN

Fig. 115. — Greek Doric
cx)stume from Hope.

Kingdom, Dark Ages,
Middle Kingdom,
Period of Shepherd
Kings, and New
Empire, i.e., from
2980 B.C. until 945
B.C., were usually
made of linen and
wool, woven by hand.
While the dyes used
were principally red,
blue, and saffron,
white seems to have
been most worn. The
material was plain,
the decoration, if any,
being embroidery at
the hem. While fond
of ornamentation, the
people during this
time seem to have
depended on their

wigs and headdresses, collars, hanging
straps, armlets, and leg decorations,
and not to have introduced figures in
their weaves. See Fig. 116.

The Copts or Egyptian Christians,
like the Greeks and Romans, wore
wonderfully woven or embroidered
bands on their garments, the color
and designs of which are most inter-
esting. Good examples are to be seen
in the Coptic Room, Metropolitan
Museum of Art, and in the Cooper
Union Museum.

53. Greek Dress. — The Greeks used
wool linen, and silk. Linen and silk
were used for the more extravagant
costumes of the later period, though
they had cotton in small quantities.
Cotton belonged to India; it did not
become known to Europe until the

invasion of Alexander the Great. It was
too expensive for large garments and was
a deep yellow in color..

The Doric and Ionic chitons, or dress,
and the himation, or cloak, were used in
different colors. Blue and Tyrian purple
as well as red and yellow were popular.
Different borders were often combined
in the Greek costume with an all-over
design. See Fig. 115. The designs were
frequently emblems, and birds, animals
or flowers. The garments were woven
in one piece which was complete in itself.
The long, graceful folds of this single
garment produced a decorative and simple
effect, and it is interesting to note also
the different effects obtainable by chang-
ing the position of the girdle. This was
worn at the waist in the Archaic period.

116. — Costume of man and woman of Egypt about 2500 B.C.
from Kistoire de L'Art Egyptian.

ROMAN DRESS

Page Ninety-three

over the hips in the Golden Age, and
under the arms at the last period.

Interesting and detailed accounts of
Greek costumes may be found in Evans's
Greek Dress and Edith Abraham's Greek
Dress; good illustrations in Hope's Cos-
tume of the Ancients.

54. Roman Dress. — The Romans and
Greeks imported much material from
Babylonia. Some of the silk is described
as having a nap on both sides (velvet),
and as gold, scarlet and purple in color.
The Roman women wore a tunic, a stola
(like the Grecian chiton), and a palla,
which corresponded to a Roman man's
toga, or a Grecian woman's himation.
The Roman women added a ruffle to
their dress which was often elaborately
decorated. Silk was at a premium, but
was frequently mixed in weaving with wool
or linen. With the exception of more
elaboration, the fabrics did not differ
much from the Grecian.

Fig. 117. — Italian XIV Century costumes from Jacquemin.

55. Influ-
ence of the
E a s t .—
Fabrics
seem always
to have
drawn their
inspiration
from the
East. We
find the
Gauls after
the conquest
of Csesar,
55 B.C.,
adopting a
somewhat
m odified
form of the
Roman cos-
tume. The
Franks in
taking possession of Gaul gradually (from
the third to the fifth century a.d.), while
they did not part with their costume as
a whole", the women retaining their veils
for some ten centuries, adopted the Byzan-
tine styles, for the Eastern influence of
the Roman Empire continued after the
arrival of the Franks. We find both men
and women in the ninth and tenth and
twelfth centuries wearing stuffs brought
from the East, even after the art of
embroidery became generally understood,
and tapestry weaving and applique work
was carried on in Europe.

56. Weaving. — WTiile mechanical weav-
ing was done in Egypt 2000 B.C., the more
complex use of the shuttles by vhich
figures were produced without embroider-
ing was not known until 200 a.d. It was
then done by the Syrian weavers in the

Fig. 118. — XIV Century parti-colored
dresses — from Jacquemin.

Page Ninety-four

PERIOD FABRIC DESIGN

Eastern Roman Empire.
For many years the devel-
opment of weaving was
slow, and the repeat pat-
terns were of the simplest
kind. Ornamental silks
were first produced in
Europe 500 a.d.; they
were Roman and Byzantine

to the twelfth century.
These were sometimes
linked together, large circles

Fig. 120.— XVI Century trunk
motive.

The design consisting of
a circle or square frame
developed in the first cen-
tury; for the next five
hundred years circles or
squares, sometimes filled
with Persian or Syrian
floral detail, persisted.
This same design was used
for centuries afterwards for
stained glass.

About 400 to 600 a.d.
broken circles came in, the
upper and lower segments
spreading out to form
bands. Circles continued

Fig. 119.— XIII Century formal
arrangement.

being joined by small ones
at points of contact, and
the patterns often becom-
ing quite elaborate. The
Saracenic hexagon geomet-

rically arranged was also
used. Up to the thirteenth
century a formal arrange-
ment was often followed,
consisting of balanced
groupings of birds, beasts,
and men placed face to
face or back to back.

Fig. 121.— XVII and XVIII
Century scroll motive.

Fig. 122.— XIV and XV Century
animal arrangement.

The ogival form is a
form of design in which
the joining circles are
brought into acute juncture,
forming ovals. This design
came in about 800 a.d.,
and like most things that
were pointed, it continued
through the Gothic period.

In 700 A.D. Spain was
progressing with silk weav-
ing. About this time also,
merchants from Syria
opened establishments in
Paris. In 800 a.d., the
Daughters of Charlemagne

USE OF GOLD THREAD

Page Ninety-five

did silk weaving, but up to the eleventh
century the making of fine fabrics was
practically monopolized by Athens, Thebes,
Corinth, and Constantinople.

No great extravagance had reached
France before
this. In the
tenth century
we read of its
king, Charles
the Simple,
possessing but
three shirts
In the four-
teenth century
Isabeau de
Baviere, com-
ing to marry
Charles VI,
was thought to
be showing an
extraordinary
degree of lux-
ury in having
three dozen
chemises in
her trousseau.

The return of the Crusaders initiated
the nobility of France into the luxury of
the Orient.

57. Use of Gold Thread. — Drawn gold
thread was not used in early fabrics, but
gold leaf on paper rolled around a fine
thread of silk was employed. Sicilian
fabrics of the thirteenth and fourteenth
centuries frequently show a purple ground
of twilled silk with birds and foliage
formed by gold thread weft. Saracenic
or Hispano-Moresque fabrics of Spain are
distinguished by splendid crimson or dark
blue conventional patterns of silk upon
a yellow ground, and by frequent use of

Fig. 123.

strips of gilded parchment in place of
rolled gilt thread. Undoubtedly through
the influence of the Crusades, the Sicilian
weavers of the thirteenth and fourteenth
centuries produced many fabrics enriched

with winged
lions, crosses,
crowns, rayed
stars, harts, or
birds, linked
together with
floriations or
armorial bear-
ings. See Fig.
117.

58. Parti-
colored Dress.
— The same
in f 1 uence
which brought
with the Per-
pendicular
Gothic the
introduction
of heraldic
forms, such as
shields, crests
and badges, found women of rank wearing
parti-colored dresses; a division which
practically cut the figure in half, the right
side representing the arms of the husband,
the left that of the lady's own family.
See Fig. 118.

Late in 1200 a.d. this character of
design was introduced into Northern Italy.
Genoa adopted much that was Persian
from the twelfth to the seventeenth
centuries, and in the fifteenth century,
when Louis XI encouraged the art of
weaving in France at Tours, and later
at Lj'ons under Francis I (1515), the
Persian and Italian fabrics were closely

Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Painting by Hans Memling of Betrothal of Saint Catherine
showing surcot and fabrics used in XV Century.

Page Ninety-six

PERIOD FABRIC DESIGN

followed, and the vase pattern was
adopted.

The Oriental character of design in
textiles did not entirely disappear until
the seventeenth century when the gardens
of Versailles and the Trianons under
Louis XIV inspired the use of European
flora.

59. Classification of Fabric Designs. —
The following brief classification will be
found helpful in placing fabric designs
in their proper periods.

Twelfth and thirteenth centuries, for-
mal arrangement. See Fig. 119.

Fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, ani-
mal figures. See Fig. 122.

Sixteenth and seventeenth centuries,
trunk motives. See Fig. 120.

Seventeenth and eighteenth centuries,
scroll motives. See Fig. 121.

For a more detailed outline we can refer
to that given by Clifford, in his book on
Period Furnishings, in conjunction with
his well-chosen illustrations.

"I. 200-400 A.D. The development of
circle and geometric frames, sometimes filled
with simple floral, bird or animal forms.

"II. 400-600 A.D. The utilization of
broken circles spread out to form bands.

"III. 600-1000 A.D. The use of circles
linked by smaller circles, with ornaments
inside and out, developing at length the
ogival form; often hexagon framework.

"IV. 1000-1350 A.D. Repeated parallel
bands or ornamentation, detached details,
patterns animated and inanimated, en-
closed in ogival framing and combination
circles or scale patterns as well as geo-
metric straight-line framing. 1200-1300
introduced features of design, as eagles,
falcons, etc.

"V. 1350-1500. A characteristic design
of the fifteenth century was the use of
reversed curves so firranged that they
made frames. (The panels of Jeanne
d'Arc, painted by Boutet de Monvel and
owned by Senator William A. Clark, give
very fine illustrations of the textures used
at this period; they may be seen certain
days upon written request. Both the
surcot, which was now gradually disap-
pearing, and the houppelande, or robe,
which was appearing, lent themselves
magnificently to these fabrics.)

"This form utilized the Hogarth line of
beauty. Another form was the inter-
section of a Hogarth panel by two bold
curving stems coming up through the
bottom of the panel and capped by a cone
pineapple or fruit device.

"Still another showed a serpentine stem
or winding trunk which ran through the
Hogarth pattern in the midst of a variety
of botanical forms. See Fig. 123.

"VI. 1500. Designs adopted a free treat-
ment. The plans of previous centuries
were combined and elaborated. Orna-
ment was arranged with ogival frames,
springing out of the frame to which it
seems to be attached. Interlacing of
two frames of which one is ogival. Ogival
frames of leaves and flowers enclosing a
large concentric pattern. Elaborate ogival
frames caught together by crowns. The
use of vases, urns, crowns and animals
became common.

"VII. 1600-1700. During this time we
find an elaborate use of European garden
flowers instead of purely tropical Persian
verdure, following, however, the general
ogival form arrangement.

" VIII. 1700. Pictorial tapestries and
prints. Pure Renaissance styles, or devel-

SIXTEENTH AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURIES Page Ninety-seven

opments of that style. Louis XIV or XV.
Oriental characteristics of either the
French or English styles as shown in the
scenic bits of Chinese or East Indian life.
Louis XVI classic revival examples as ex-
pressed by the late Louis XVI.

"Directoire or Transition period in
France and the Adam school in England.
This period overlapped into 1800 and was
generally adopted in American colonies.

"IX. Empire and Empire influence."

60. The Sixteenth and Seventeenth
Centuries. — In the sixteenth and seven-
teenth centuries, three distinct types of
design were seen, the Renaissance, the
Oriental Renaissance and the European
floral. The Renaissance brought a change
from the accustomed following of Persian
Oriental design, and such motifs as the Per-
sian rose and pink, the Rhodian lily and
pomegranate gave way to such Egyptian,
Roman, and Greek motifs as the Anthe-
mion. Acanthus, Lotus and Iris. The
second or Oriental Renaissance was really
Portuguese-Persian, or the spirit of the
Renaissance influencing the East through
commercialism. The third or European
flora was developed about 1650 during
the reign of Louis XIV, when the ferns and
flora of the Royal Gardens came into use
as motifs.

In studying the periods it must not be
overlooked that the Dutch brought East
Indian types into England under Elizabeth,
the Jacobean, and Queen Anne reigns,
and that the influence of China was
strong in France during the reign of
Louis XV, and in England under the
Georges. The East India Company in
1609 reserved all strange fowls and beasts
to be found there, "for the Council."

This brought the parrot and cockatoo in
wicker cages, and similar motifs, much into
evidence in the embroideries and printed
fabrics, so full then of animal and floral
design of Eastern character. The British
rule in India created a demand as early
as 1760 for Indian goods, and India cot-
tons, dimity, and gauze were used in both
England and France.

61. Paris Becomes the Centre of
Fashion. — For centuries Italy was the ^
centre from which foreign courts adopted
both fashions in clothes and customs.
It was not until the seventeenth century
that Paris became the centre and home of
taste. Several things had much to do
with bringing this about. First, a great
and appreciative impetus was given in-
dustry by Colbert, the able minister
of Louis XIV. Secondly, at this time
long dresses were abandoned and the
vogue for large Italian patterns ceased.
Thirdly, the discovery of a way around
the Cape of Good Hope had much to
do with the trade in silks turning from
Italy to Asia.

Under Louis XIV artists held high posi-
tion; it was an ambitious period. World
forces, conquests and statecraft, as well
as the taste of Louise de la Valliere, Ma-
dame de Montespan, Mile, de Fontanges
and Madame de Maintenon influenced the
arts of the time. The magnificent gardens
that were built, besides the motifs sug-
gested by European floriculture, brought
in festoons, vases, architectural designs,
etc. It was under this king and his
minister, Colbert, that the highest achieve-
ment in lace making was reached in
France. Lace is supposed to have been
introduced into France by Catherine de
Medici, wife of Henry II, in 1547.

Page Ninety-eight

PERIOD FABRIC DESIGN

On the other hand, the arts of Louis
XV had the stimulus qi social life, and
were full of ostentation and extravagance.
We find much less symmetry or balance
in the motifs, which were shells, feath-
ers, ribbons, knots, garlands, and Chinese
and Japanese fancies. Pronounced stripes
I were affected as creations of Madame
Pompadour, and many charming gowns
were made of the flowered silks named
for this favorite of the King.

62. Period of Louis XVI.— By the end
of the eighteenth century heavy materials
\, had fallen from favor and less metallic
effects were sought in weaving, but
oriental foliation, which was used be-
fore and during the Renaissance, again
came in.

Under Louis XVI the designers fol-
lowed innumerable paths under the im-
pulse of capricious fashion. We have
Arabesque composition, foliage, flowers,
figures, landscapes, country scenes, alle-
gories and Chinese ornament.

In the fabrics we find stripes and rib-
bons combined with flowers. Stripes were
so much used that in 1788 it was said that,
"Everybody in the king's cabinet looks
like a zebra." Unlike the Pompadour
stripe, the Queen Marie Antoinette stripes
1/ were interwoven wuth flowers and orna-
ments such as feathers, medallions, lyres,
columns, etc. Marie Antoinette liked
flowers, the pink, the tulip, but best of
all the rose, and the impetus she gave the
production of lace in the beginning of
her reign shows the influence of her taste,
which is everywhere seen in the entwined
ribbons and garlands.

63 Directoire and Empire Designs.—

The Revolution, 1789-99, brought in
simpler materials; cotton, India prints,
and law^n were used. Colbert had put a
stop to their use in former years because
it threatened his pet silk industry.

The Directoire, 1795 to 1804, followed
this Revolution, and this was the tran-
sition period between the classicism of
the late king and the stronger style of
the Empire. The India shawl — introduced
after the Egyptian campaign — was much
worn. This led to a French imitation and
then to the Paisley copy made in Scotland,
the Persian design of which has been so
popular.

The transition period was largely in
combination with much that was Egyp-
tian in character. The bee, laurel branch,
wreath, helmeted warriors, etc., w'ere now
used as motifs and stripes were still
popular. This had marked influence and
effect upon laces now wholly lacking in
freedom of design.

The costume of the Empire was usually
more or less Oriental in ornamenta-
tion, texture, and color. Napoleon's cam-
paigns resulted in bringing into France
the accumulated treasures of centuries,
which became a source of inspiration,
and left a characteristic imprint upon
the period.

Fabric design reveals much of the his-
tory and atmosphere of each century and
is worthy of intelligent study and con-
sideration, not only by students, but by
all who wish to develop their knowledge
and appreciation of beauty.

See Die Gewebe Sammlung des Kunst-
gewerbe Museum von Julius Lessing, and
Seidenweberei, Otto von Funke.

OUTLINE OF HISTORIC COSTUME

CHAPTER EIGHT

CHAPTER EIGHT

OUTLINE OF HISTORIC COSTUME-

History and Dress

64. Egyptian Costume. — (a) Men. (1)
Old Kingdom, 4th, 5th, and 6th Dynasties
(2980-2475 B.C.) . Memphis, capital.

Lower classes wore a belt tied
around the waist with hanging
ends down the
front (see Fig.
127), a kilt-like
loin cloth (see
Fig. 129), or a
skirt apparently
made of rushes
(see Fig. 128).

In the 5th
Dynasty, trian-
gular erection
came in, being
temporarily
adopted by the
king in this dy-
nasty. See Fig.
124 of Perneb,
representing an
Egyptian noble-
man in full dress.
Both men and
women shaved
their heads and
wore wigs. Men
appear to have
gone nude when
engaged in stren-
uous exercise.

(2) Dark
Ages, 6th to
12th Dynasty.

No change in costume shown.

(3) Middle Kingdom, 12th and 13th
Dynasties (2160-1788 B.C.). Thebes, capital.

Courtesy of Metropolitan Museum.
Fig. 124. Fig. 125. Fig. 126.

Egyptian costumes. Showing a woman's costume, the triangular
erection and the leopard skin worn by priests.

Courtesy of Metropolitan Museum
Fig. 127. Fig. 128. Fig. 129.

The costumes worn by men in Egvpt during the Old Kingdom
(2980-2475"^ B.C.).

Skirts became longer and narrower,

and were closed in front, with one

side lapping over the other. When of

transparent material, a skirt of

thicker material in the shape

of the short kilt of the Old

Empire was worn

underneath.

(4) Period of
Shepherd Kings,
13th to 18th
Djnasty. Israel-
ites came down
into Egypt.

No change in
costume shown.

(5) New Em-
pire, 18th, 19th
and 20th Dy-
nasties (1580-945
B.C.). Thebes,
capital.

In the 18th
Dynasty a tunic
was sometimes
added. This was
open on the
right side and
had a short left
sleeve.

Many changes
in skir+s now
took place, plait-
ed effects be-
came popular.
See Fig. 131.
Cloaks were
worn from the time of the 4th Dynasty,
but became generally used during the
Middle Kingdom. See Fig. 130.

Page One Hundred Two

OUTLINE OF HISTORIC COSTUME

Apron-like decoration
was worn from the 4th to
the 20th Dynasty. Men
were clean shaven, and wore
wigs and false beards. Ker-
chiefs were often used.
Leopards' skins were worn
by priests. See Fig. 126.

(b) Women.~^th to 18th
Dynasty.

All, with the exception of
some servants and dancing
girls, wore a simple costume
from bust to ankles, very
tight without folds, some-
times held on by one,
sometimes by two shoulder
straps, and sometimes by
a necklace. See Fig. 125.
Embroidery was frequently used

In the 18th Dynasty
the dress was carried
over the left shoulder,
plaits became popular,
and a left sleeve was
introduced. In the
20th Dynasty a thick
under dress was used.
White seems to have
been in favor, also red,
saffron, and blue.

Both men and wo-
men wore sandals in
the street. The collar
was an important dec-
oration and was made
of papyrus decorated
with beads or embroi-
dered in wool.

Bracelets and leg
decorations were
largely used. These fig

Courtesy of MetropolUan Museum.
Fig. 130. — An Egyptian cloak.

on borders.

CouTtesy of Metropolitan Museum.
131. — Plaited effects of the New Empire

were of metal and em-
broidery.

(c) Emblems or Symbols. —
Upper Egyptian crown,
red.

Lower Egyptian crown,
white.

When one king ruled
both, he wore a combina-
tion of the above.

Lotus signified abun-
dance.

Globes signified eternal
life.

Vulture signified the roy-
alty of a queen.

Asp signified the kingly
authority.
Hanging straps indicated authority.

Reference Books

Bulletin of the Met-
ropolitan Museum of
Art, Vol. XI, No. 11,
for Ancient Egyptian
Kerchiefs, and The
Dress of the Ancient
Egyptians, both pub-
lished by the INIetropol-
itan Museum of Art;
Prisse d'Avennes, His-
toire de L'Art Egypt; The
Book of the Dead, tac-
shmleoi PapyrusofAniy
in the British Museum;
Wilkinson, The Ancient
Egyptian; Erman, Life
in Ancient Egypt, Chap-
terX; Breasted,^ waeni
Times; Racinet, History
of Costume.

GREEK COSTUME

History and Dress
65. Greek Costume. — (1)
Pre - Hellenic otherwise called
Minoan or Mycenaean Age
(2800-1200 B.C.). See Fig. 132.
]Men wore waist cloth with
hanging ends. Women wore
tight-fitting waists and flounced
skirts. See Fig. 133.

(2) Homeric or Heroic Age
(1200 B.C.).

Both men and women wore
a simplified costume not unlike
the classic.

Dorian Invasion, 8th century
B.C. Rise of Sparta, inhabitants
called Dorians. Rise of Athens,
5th century B.C., inhabitants
called lonians.

(3) Classic Period. Costume
of Greek men and
women was the same
except that of the men
was more abbreviated.

(a) Chiton or dress.

(6) Himation or
cloak. See Fig. 135.

(c) The chlamys or
short coat was worn
on horseback. The
chiton or dress was of
two kinds. The Doric
chiton, worn by the
Dorians, who were war-
like and interested
primarily in the phys-
ical, made of heavy
material and fell in
few folds, had no
sleeves, see Fig. 134.

The Ionic chiton,
worn by the lonians, fig.

Courtesy of Metropolitan Museum.

Fig. 132.— Costume of

Mycenaean man.

Courtesy of MetropolUan Museum.
133. — Costume of Mycenaean woman.

Page One Hundred Three

a people fond of all things beau-
tiful, made of finer material, fell
in many and finer folds, had
sleeves. See Fig. 135.

Girdle was worn at the waist
line during the Archaic period,
sixth century B.C. Statues of
people of this century adorn the
Acropolis. This was the elabo-
rate period when cascades of ma-
terial are found in the statues.
Girdle worn over the hip or
below the waist in the Golden
Age. This was sometimes called
the Age of Pericles, 459-431 B.C.
The maidens of the Parthenon
frieze are of this time.

Girdle worn under the arms
during the last period.

Wool, linen and silk were
used, and the garments
were dyed purple, red,
yellow, and other col-
ors. Sandals and shoes
were worn when out of
doors, and the women
had many different
kinds of jewelry and
hair ornaments.

Reference Books

A Cretan Snake God-
dess, Century Mag-
azine, August. 1916;
C.H.andH.B.Hawes,
Crete the Forerunner of
Greece; Hope, Costumes
of the Ancients; Ra-
cinet, Histoire du Cos-
tume; Evans, Greek
Dress; Edith Abra-
hams, Greek Dress;

Page One Hundred Four

OUTLINE OF HISTORIC COSTUME

Fig.

Courtesy of Metropolitan Museum.
134. — Greek Doric chiton.

G. Baldwin Brown, Bur-
lington Magazine of De-
cember, 1905, and Janu-
ary, 1906, How Greek
Women Dressed.

History

66. Roman Costume.
Rome founded 753 b.c.

Rome was a kingdom
753-509 B.C.

Rome was a republic
509-31 B.C.

Rome was an empire
31 B.C.-476 A.D. in West.

Dress (Roman)

Men wore a tunic; a
toga, or cloak corre-
sponding to the Greek

, . , 1 . . • FromHope.

mmation ; but cut semi- Fig. 136.— The costume of a Roman man and woman.

Courtesy of Metropolitan Museum.
Fig. 135.— iGreek Ionic chiton and himation.

circular in form, whereas
the Greek himation was
rectangular.

Only Roman citizens
could wear the toga,
which was a national
garment, so the pwnula
was worn by the work-
ing class. This was
like a cape, and some-
times had a hood. This
was worn by all classes,
both men and women,
to travel in.

Women wore a tunic
which was like that of
the Roman men; a
stola or dress corre-
sponding to the Greek
Ionic chiton (differing
in that it had a border
or ruffle at the bot-
tom); a palla or cloak

ROMAN COSTUMES

Page One Hundred Five

corresponding to the Grecian
himation.

Women of the lower classes
could not wear the stola;
they wore tunic and palla, but
this palla was made like the
Grecian Doric chiton.

Roman men did not wear
hats, except the lower classes,
who wore tight-fitting caps.
See Fig. 133.

Roman women had far more
jewelry than the Greek. They
had all the precious stones we
now have. They dyed, curled,
and arranged their hair elabo-
rately and wore sandals and
fancy boots. They took ex-
cellent care of their bodies.

Books of Reference
'RacinetiHistoire du Costume;

Trom UoUenroth.
Fig. 138. — Gallic costume be-
fore coming under Koman
influence, 55 b.c.

Hope, Costume of the Ancients;
Preston and Dodge, Family
Life of Romans; Planche,
General History of Costume in
Europe.

History and Dress

67. The Gauls.— Csesar
made a complete conquest of
Gaul, 55 B.C. In ancient times
the civilized races were un-
trousered. (See Egyptians,
Greeks, and Romans.) Un-
civilized races were trousered
(Gauls, Franks, etc.).

(a) Men. — Wore trousers to
the ankles, called braie; a
mantle of wool fastened in
front, called sai; a tunic to
mid-leg with long sleeves;
girdles; shoes to ankles. See
Fig. 137.

From Hottenroth.
Fig. 137.— Gallic costume before coming under Roman
influence, 55 b.c.

From Hottenroth.

Fig. 139.— Gallo-Roman costume 100 a.d.

Page One Hundred Six

OUTLINE OF HISTORIC COSTUME

Later the men shortened the trousers
and tunic and wore leggins and sandals
with bands.

(6) Women. — Inner tunic to ankles;
short outer tunic with short sleeves;
girdles; shoes. See Fig. 138.

The women afterwards shortened their
outer tunic and wore a mantle like a
Roman paenula. See Fig. 139. Both men
and women made their hair red with lime
water.

About a hundred years after the Roman
conquest, the Gauls had become civilized,
and had adopted a dress somewhat resem-
bling the Roman costume, but the Roman
dress was also influenced by that of the
Gauls, as can be seen by the introduction
of short trousers that were worn under
the tunic.

Reference Books
Hottenroth, Le Costumes chez les Peuples:

From Hottenroti^
Fig. 141. — ^Women's costume of the Franks about
■ 8th century, showing fichu and veil.

R a c i n e t, Le Costu me
Historique; Zur Ge-
schichte der Costume,
Nach Zeichnungen von
W. Diez, C. Frohlish,
M. Heil, C. Haberlin,
A. Muller, F. Rothbart,
J. Waller Muchen.

From HotleiiToth.

Pig. 140. — Men's costume of the early Franks about Sth to 8th century.

History

68. Third to Elev-
enth Centuries. —

530 .? A.D. King

Arthur in England
m. Guinevere.
871-901 A.D. King Al-
fred the Great in
England m. Ethels-
witha, d. of Ethel-
ran of Mercia.

THIRD— ELEVENTH CENTURY

One Hundred Seven

742-814 A.D. Charlemagne m. 1st, Her-
mengardg, m. 2d Hildegarde, in. 3d,
Fastrade, 4th, Liutgarda.

276 A.D. The Franks came down the
Rhine, took possession of Gaul grad-
ually, but made a complete conquest.
The fifth century to the sixteenth
century comprises the costume history
of the Middle Ages.

Dress {III to XI Century)
(a) Men. — Wore a kind of tunic usually
to the knee; mantle the shape of a cape
which often had a hood; girdle; shoes.
See Fig. 140.

(6) Women. — Wore, like the women of
Gaul, two tunics, also a veil (sometimes
large enough to take the place of a mantle) .
See Fig. 141. The women in England wore
a similar head covering, called a wimple.
The influence of the Eastern Roman
Empire continued after the arrival of the
Franks, who had become well established

by the sixth century. By the ninth cen-
tury gloves and handkerchiefs were some-
times used. The outer tunic of both the
men and women was now often decorated
with a band called a fichu. This was
sometimes set with precious stones and
showed Byzantine influence. See Fig. 142.
Reference Books
Zur Geschichte der Costume; Quicherat,
Histoire du Costume en France; Challamel,
History of Costume in France from Gallo-
Roman to the Present Time; Shaw, Dresses
and Decorations of the Middle Ages;
Jacquemin, Iconographie du Costume.

History
69. Eleventh Century. —
1066-1087 William the Conqueror, King of
England, m. Mathilda, d. of Baldwin
V, E. of Flanders.
1087-1100 William H, King of England.
1031-1060 Henry I, King of France m.
Anna, d. of Jaroslaw I of Russia.

From Zur Geschichte der' Costume.

Fig. 142.— French costume of 9th and 10th centuries.

From Zur Geschichte der Costume^

Fig. 143. — King and Queen of the 11th century.

£^age One Hundred Eight

OUTLINE OF HISTORIC COSTUME

1060-1108 Philip I, King of France, m.
1st Bertha, d. of Florence I, C, of
Holland, m. 2d Bertrade, d. of Simon
I, C. of Montfort.

Dress {XI Century)

In the eleventh century the influence of
the Crusades began to show in costume;
apparently the costumes of the Orient
influenced costume and men adopted a
very long and inconvenient type of dress,

(a) Men. — Wore a long under tunic down
to the feet called a chemise; outside tunic
long and full called a bliaud (pronounced
bleo). This was held in bj^ a girdle. The
bliaud had sleeves similar to those of our
kimona (the extra fullness in the skirt was
obtained by gores). See Fig. 143.

Trousers and stockings were worn
underneath.

The long mantle now worn was fastened
often on the left shoulder; up to this
time it had been more conveniently fast-
ened on the right shoulder, giving freedom
to the right arm.

Men wore two kinds of hats, one that
resembled a Phrygian bonnet, and a cap.
Men and women now dressed much alike.

Reference Books
Hilaire Billoc, Book of Bayeux Tapestry,
Racinet, Costume Historique; Zur Geschichte
der Costume; Blanche, Dictionary and Cyclo-
pcrdia; Jacquemin, Iconographie du Co-
stume; La Croix, Manners, Customs, and
Dress During the Middle Ages and Renais-
sance, and Ary Renan, Le Costume en France.

History
70. Twelfth Century.- -
1100-1135 Henry I, King of England, m.
1st, Mathilda of Scotland, m. 2d,
Adelicia of Brabant.
1135-1154 Stephen, King of England, m.
Mathilda, d. of Eustace, E. of Boulogne.

1154-1189 Henry II, King of England, m.

Eleonora of Aquitaine.
1189-1199 Richard I,. King of England, m.

Berengaria, d. of K. of Navarra.

1108-1137 Louis VI, King of France, m.

Adelaide, d. of Humbert II, of Savoy.

1137-1180 Louis VII, King of France, m.

1st, Eleanor, d. of Guillaume X of

Aquitaine, m. 2d, Constance, d. of

Alphonso VII of Castile, m. 3d, Alice,

d. of Theobald II, C. of Champagne.

1180-1223 Philip II, King of France, m.

1st, Isabelle of Artois, m. 2d, Ingeborg

of Denmark, m. 3d, Marie, d. of

Berthold V of Meran.

Dress {XII Century)
In the twelfth century the bliaud for the
men became fitted and hoods were worn.
The women's outer tunic became fitted,
tricot and lacing were both introduced.
This tunic had long bell-shaped sleeves.
The sleeves of the chemise were long and
fitted at the wrist. A smaller veil called
an antique veil, held by a circlet or crown,
sometimes embroidered, now took the
place of the long veils. The shoes began
to show points. See Fig. 143 and 144.
Reference Books
Calthrop, English Costume; Racinet, Co-
stume Historique; Blanche, General History
of Costume; La Croix, Manners, Customs,
and Dress During the Middle Ages and Re-
naissance; Quicherat, Histoire du Costume
en France; Viollet-le-Duc, Dictionnaire du
Mobilier FranQais,Y oh. 3 and 4; Bonnard,
Costumes Historique; Fairholt, Costumes in
England; Shaw, Dresses and Decorations of
the Middle Ages; Hefner-Alleneck, Tracht-
en, Kunstwerke und Gerdthschaften.

History
71. Thirteenth and Fourteenth Centuries.
1199-1216 John, King of England, m. 1st
Alix, d. of Hugo, C. of Mortain, m.

THIRTEENTH-FOURTEENTH CENTURIES Page Oue Hundred Nine

r

L\^j^ ^

mff

111

i

i

IIH 1

0

i

1

From Viollet-ie-Duc.
Fig. 144— Fitted costume of 12th
century.

2d, Havoise,

iiViTm VtoOetrle-iyuc.
Pro. 146. — Parti-colored or
armorial dress.

From VioUel46-Duc
Pig. 145. — 2nd form of surcot
13th and 14th centuries.

d. of D. of Gloucester,

m. 3d Isabel, d. of C. of Angouleine.
1216-1272 Henry III m. Eleanore of

Provence.
1272-1307 Edward I m. 1st, Eleanora of

Castile, 2d, Margaret, d. of Philip III.
1307-1327 Edward II m. Isabelle, d. of

Philip IV, King of France.
1327-1377 Edward III m. Philippa, d. of

Wilhelm III, C. of Holland.
1377-1399 Richard II m. 1st, Anna of

Bohemia, m. 2d, Isabella of France.
1399-1413 Henry IV, Lancaster (Red

Rose), m. 1st, Mary Bohun, m. 2d,

Jane of Navarra.
1223-1226 Louis VIIT, King of France, m.

Blanche, d. of Alphonso VIII of Castile.
1226-1270 Louis IX (St. Louis), King of

France, m. Marguerite, d. of C. of

Provence.
1270-1285 Philip III, King of France, m.

1st, Isabelle, d. of King of Arragon, m.
2d,Maria,d.ofHeinrichIII of Brabant.

1285-1314 Philip IV, King of France, m.
Jeanne, Queen of Navarra.

1314-1316 Louis X, King of France, m. 1st,
Margaret, d. of Robert II, of Bur-
gundy', m. 2d, Clemence of Hungaria.

1316-1322 Philip V, King of France, m.
Jeanne, d. of C. of Meran.

1322-1328 Charles IV, King of France, m.
1st, Blanch, d. of Otho IV, m. 2d,
Maria of Luxemburg, m. .'kl, Jeanne,
d. of Louis, C. of Evreaux.

1328-1350 Philip VI (Valois), King of
France, m. 1st, Jeanne, d. of D. of
Burgundy, m. 2d, Blanche of Navarra.

1350-1364 Jean II, King of France, m.
1st Bonne of Luxemburg, 2d, Jeanne,
d. of William XII, C. of Auvergne.

1364-1380 Charles V, King of France,
m. Jeanne, d. of Duke of Bourbon.

Page One Hundred Ten

1380-1422 Charles VI, King
of France, m. Isabella of
Bavaria Ingolstadt.

Dress (XIII and XIV Centuries)

In the thirteenth century,
more interest was shown in
dress. Both men and women
wore a semi-fitted garment
called a surcot, hollowed out
under the arms.

(a) Men. — Wore close fit-
ting trousers (braie) ; mantle;
surcot ; tunic (chemise) ; cotte
(tunic); stockings; hats or
hoods.

(6) Women. — Wore inner
tunic or chemise, over this
a cotte, or fitted chemise worn
with a girdle, over this the
surcot. The surcot had no
sleeves, and those of the ,
cotte, usually of a con-
trasting color, were an
important feature of
this robe; by degrees the
arms-eye became larger
and was trimmed with
fur. See Figs. 123 and
145. The skirts were
very long and were held
up as the woman walk-
ed, showing the cotte
again, which was the
same material as the
sleeves, making a pleas-
ing repeat of the con-
trasting color. In the
fourteenth century the
parti-colored or ar-
morial dress was worn,
see Figs. 146 and 118,

OUTLINE OF HISTORIC COSTUME

and the hennins or high head
dress came in. Toward the
last of the century the howp-
pelande or one-piece dress
replaced the surcot. See
Figs. 147, 148 and 108. In
this garment women are said
to have discovered the nor-
mal waistline. This had a
V-shaped neck, widely off at
the shoulders. The women
were at this time wearing
the wimple or head covering,
and about the throat the
gorget in certain localities.

The surcot of the men grew
shorter and had large sleeves.
Their stockings were close-
fitting and combined with
T^omviouei.ie^i>uc. the trouscrs. The shoes were
FiG.147.— 14th and 15th century costume more pointed. They added

showing hennin and houppeland. i , i

an houpplande or some-
times long, sometimes
short, outer garment
with large sleeves. See
Figs. 108 and 148.
Reference Books
Books mentioned under
fifteenth century.

History
72. Fifteenth Century.

1413-1422 Henry V,
King of England,
m. Catherine of
Valois,d. of Charles
VI of France.

1422-1461 Henry VI,
King of England, m.
Margaret of Anjou.

1461-1483 Edward IV
(White Rose), m.
Elizabeth of Wood-
ville.

;i

a

Fig.

From Viollet-le-Duc.
148. — Men of the 15th century.

SIXTEENTH CENTURY

Page One Hundred Eleven

1483 Edward V, King of England.

1483-1485 Richard III (White Rose), m.
Anne Nevill.

1485-1509 Henry VII (Tudor), m. Eliza-
beth of York.

1422-1461 Charles
VII, King of
France, m.
Marie, d. of
D. of Anjou.

1461-1483 Louis

XI, m. 1st,
Marguerite,
d. of James I,
King of Scot-
land, m. 2d,
Charlotte of
Savoy.

1483-1498 Charles

VIII,m.Anne

of Brittany.
1498-1515 Louis

XII, m. 1st,
Jeanne, d. of
Louis XL m.
2d, Anne,
widow of
CharlesVIII,

m. 3d, Mary, d. of Henry VII, King
of England.

Dress

The fifteenth century was an exaggera-
tion of the modes of the fourteenth. More
extravagant fabrics were used, and every-
thing became more extreme, even to the
points of the hats and shoes.

Towards the end of this century came a
transitional period. The toes of the shoes
became round, the dresses became more
semi-fitting, and were split up the front,
showing the underskirt. They had square
necks and were worn with a girdle. The
close-fitting cap was the head-dress now

used, and had probably been introduced
into France by Anne de Bretagne, Queeii
of France. See Fig. 150. The Fifth cen-
tury to the Sixteenth century comprises
the costume his-

tory of the
die Ages.

Mid-

FlG.

Reference Books
Calthrop, Eng-
lish Costume; Znr
Geschichte der Ko-
stiime; Quicherat,
Histoire du Co-
stume en France;
Pauquet Fr^res,
Modes et Costumes
Historiques; Hot-
tenroth, Les Co-
stumes chez les
Peuples; LaCroix,
Manners, Cos-
tume, and Dress
During the Middle
Ages and Renais-
sance ; Robida,
Ten Centuries in
Toilette; Racinet,
Histoire du Co-
stume ; Planch^,
Dictionary and
Cyclopedia; Viol-
let-le-Duc, Dictionnaire du Mobilier Fran-
gais,Yo\s. 3, 4; Raphael Jacquemin, Icono-
graphie du Costume; Shaw, Dresses and De-
corations of the Middle Ages; Piton, Le
Costume Civil en France du XIIP au XIX"
Siecle; Strutt, Sport and Pastimes of the
People of England; Strutt, A Complete
View of the Dress and Habits of the People
of England;' Bonnard, Costumes Historiques
des Xir, Xlir, XIV\ et ZP Siecles;
Boutet de Montvel, Joan of Arc; Sanborn,
Ann of Brittany.

From ZUT Geschichte der Costume.

149.— German costume of early iGth century.

History
73. Sixteenth Century. Renaissance. —
1509-1547 Henry VIII, King of England
m. 1st, Catherine of Aragon; m. 2d^

Page One Hundred Twelve OUTLINE OF HISTORIC COSTUME

Tram Pauquet Freres.
Fig. 150. — Costume of transition period.
Anne of Brittany, 1500.

P/K^..

From Pauqiut Freres.
lu. ii/i. — Larlv Ftenaissance, 1530.

From Pauquet Frires.

Fig. 151. — Costume of 16th century, 1527.

Frovt, Pauquet Freres.
Fig. 153.— French gentleman, 1572.

SIXTEENTH CENTURY

Page One Hundred Thirteen

Anne Boleyn; m.
3d, Jane Seymour;
m. 4th, Anne of
Cleves; m. 5ths
Catharine Howard;
m. 6th, Catharine
Parr.

1547-1553 Edward VI.

1553-1558 Mary Tudor,
Queen of England,
m. Phihp II, King
of Spain.

1558-1603 Elizabeth,
Queen of England.

1515-1547 Francis I,
King of France, m.
1st, Claude, d. of
Louis XII; m. 2d,
Eleanor, d. of
Philip.

1547-1559 Henry
II, King of
France, m. 1st,
Catherine de
Medicis; m.
2d, morga.,
Diana, Duchess
of Valentinois.

1559-1560 Francis
II, King of
France, m.
Mary Stuart,
Queen of Scot-
land.

1560-1574 Charles
IX, King of
France, m. 1st,
Elizabeth, d.
of Emp. ^lax-
imilian; m.2d,
morga., Marie
Touchet.

Pig.

From Pauguet Freres.
154. — Late Renaissance silhouette, 1586.

Fig. 155.

From Pauquet Freres.
-Late Renaissance costume, 1572.

1574-1589 Henry IH,
King of France, m.
Louise of Lorraine.
1589-1610 Henry IV
(Bourbon), King of
France, m. 1st,
Marguerite of Va-
lois; m. 2d, Marie
de Medicis.
Dress {XVI Century)
Great changes now
developed. The cos-
tumes for men and
women from this time
on are no longer alike.

The desire now seem-
ed to be to alter in
various ways the nor-
mal shape of the figure.
The women first wore
a boneless corset,
which they called a
basquine, and a crin-
oline which gave
the appearance of a
hooped skirt, which
they called ihevertu-
gale. See Fig. 152.
The waistline
was normal and
slightly pointed in
front. A piece of
material was sewed
on the vertugale to
take the place of
the cotte. The
under-sleeves were
made of the same
material, and some-
times slashed to
show the chemise;
sometimes this

Page One Hundred Fourteen

OUTLINE OF HISTORIC COSTUME

same material was used
as a panel in the front
of the waist. The neck
line was square but
curved upward at the
centre. The skirt was
round length.

Large mantles, usual-
ly with hoods, were used
for out of doors. The
shoes were no longer
pointed. Red was the
popular color for shoes
and stockings. Jewels
were used in profusion
to elaborate the cos-
tumes; collars set with
gems were favored.

The men wore very
short, often slashed,
trousers, long stockings,
a doublet with a
square neck, slashed,
round - pointed shoes,
and a mantle. See
Figs. 151 and 153.

The first change
came in the latter
part of the century,
when many women
wore a waist which
buttoned to the throat.
The large over-sleeves
were discarded for
smaller ones with a
padded roll at the
arm-eye. The ruff now
became popular. More
width was given to
the hfps by a barrel-
shaped hoop which
made a definite change

From PauQuet FTcrta.

Fig. 156. — Costume of the late Renaissance, 158G.

in the silhouette. The
waist became smaller
in size. Both round
length and long skirts
were worn. Trains were
worn on horseback, one
of which was seventy
feet long. The widely
open bodice became
popular, to which im-
mense ruffs were added.
The balloon-shaped
sleeves, too, had grown
enormous. It was at
this time that ribbon
came in. See Figs. 154
and 155.

Men's figures dimin-
ished in size as women's
figures increased. They
also wore both corset

and ruffs. See Fig.

156.

Reference Books
See books mentioned
under fifteenth and
seventeenth centuries.

From Pauguet Freres.
Fig. 157.— Early 17th Century costume, 1633.

History
74. Seventeenth

Century. —

1603-1625 James I,
King of England,
m. Anne, d. of
Frederick II, King
of Denmark.

1625-1649 Charles I,
King of England,
m. Henriette
Marie, d. of Hen-
ry IV, King of
France.

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

Page One Hundred Fifteen

From Paugua Freres.
Fig. 158. — Co.stume of the early part of Louis XIV reign.

^ifujaEsamm^

brum rauqutl Frtrt.^.

Fia. 159. — Costume of the reign of Louis
XIV, 1670.

'--^ -"A

From Pauguet Freres.

Fig. 160.— Costume of the later part of Louis XIV
reigo showing Fontanges head-dress.

From Pauguet Frires.
Fig. 161. — Costume of the later part of
Louis XIV reign.

Page One Hundred Sixteen

OUTLINE OF HISTORIC COSTUME

1649-1653 Interregnum.

1653-1658 Oliver Cromwell, Protector of

England, m. Elizabeth, d. of Sir

Thomas Bourchier.
1658-1660 Richard Cromwell, Protector of

Eng., m. Dorothy Mayor.
1660-1685 Charles II, King of England, m.

Catharine of Braganza.
1685-1688 James II, King of England, m.

1st, Anna Hyde; m. 2d, Mary, d. of<

Alfonso IV, D. of Modena.
1689-1702 William HI and Mary, King

and Queen of England.
1610-1643 Louis XIII, King of France.

m. Anna of Austria.
1643-1715 Louis XIV, King of France,

m. Marie Therese of Spain.
Favorites Mile, de la Valliere, Mme. de

Montespan, Mile. Fontanges, Mme.

Maintenon.

Dress {XVII Century)

The heaviness of the sixteenth century
gave way by degrees to the more picturesque
costume of the seventeenth century.

(a) Men. — Men's trousers lengthened
and they shortened the waistline and
added peplum, and, like the women, used
lace and ribbon profusely. They wore
musketeer boots. Their hats w^ere high
with a flat brim and decorated with flow-
ing plumes. The hair w^as worn long.
For an outer garment the cape was used.

Men's costumes in the last quarter of
this century changed greatly. The doub-
let now turned into a waistcoat or vest
and a new garment or outer coat was
added. Sleeves had deep cuffs. The stock
collar and jabot took the place of round
collars. The chemise showed at the wrist,
and under the jabot. The trousers were
close-fitting and less decorated. They wore
large muffs and w igs and a hat with turned-
up brim and flat plumes. See Figs. 157,
and 161.

(6) Women. — Abandoned the hoop, and

wore a round length under-petticoat and
an overskirt whici was often trailing.
The fullness was at the sides and back.
Often the skirt opened in front. When
this was done, a narrow panel of the same
kind of material as the petticoat was used
up the front of the bodice. The round
neck line was used most at this period
and the large, flat collar generally replaced
the ruff. See Fig. 157.

In some instances the waistline was
raised and a short slashed peplum added.
The woman often wore a string of pearls
at the neck. Notice the simple way their
hair was worn. See Figs. 157 and 158.

In the latter part of the period, under
Louis XIV, the skirt was looped up, the
waist became longer, heels grew higher,
waists grew tighter and fans were a neces-
sity. See Fig. 160.

Two kinds of neck lines were now pop-
ular: The straight line decolletee, close
to the neck, which seemed an extension
of the panel front used with short sleeves;
and the round neck line, which was off the
shoulders. A shorter, fluffier sleeve was
used with the round neck line. Both these
are forerunners of the eighteenth century.

The Fontanges headdress came in the
late part of this century and clothes be-
came very formal under the sway of Mme.
de Maintenon. See Fig. 160. Large bro-
cades that looked like furniture covering
were much used in the latter part of the
reign of Louis XIV, and the material was
draped so that a bustle effect was obtained.
The women carried small, round muffs.

Reference Books

Calthrop, English Costume; Pauquet
Freres, Modes et Costumes Historiques;
Robida, Ten Centuries of Toilette; Pierre
Lamesangere, Costumes des Femmes Fran-
daises; Zur Geschichte der Costume.

EIGHTEENTH CENTURY

Page One Hundred Seventeen

History

75. Eighteenth Century. —

1702-1714 Anne, Queen of England,
m. George D. Cumberland.

1714-1727 George I, King of Eng-
land, m. Sophia Dorothea, his
cousin.

1727-1760 George H, King of Eng-
land, m. Carolina of Branden-
burg-Ansbach.

1760-1820 George HI, King of Eng-
land, m. Charlotte of Mecklen-
burg-Strelitz.

1715-1774 Louis XV, King of France,
m. Maria Leczinska.
Favorites Marchioness de Pom-
padour, Countess du Barry.

1774-1792 Louis XVI, King of France,
m. Marie Antoinette, d. of Franz
I. Stephen, Germ. Emp.

Fig. 163.-

From Pamuet Frires.
-Louis XV Watteau costume showing 18th century hoop, 1729.

From Pauquet Frires.
Fig. 162. — Draped costume of the late 18th century, 1763.

Dress {XVIII Century)
Early in the eighteenth century
the hoop was revived (1711).
This time it was a framework of
cane, whalebone, or some similar
material, and was called a panier.
It was wide at the sides and flat
in the back and front, but the
fullness of the skirt gave the re-
quired size at the back. During
the regency, plain, full skirts of
light weight material were in
vogue; afterward, heavier* fabrics
and more decoration appeared.
The tj'pe was more frivolous
than that used during the latter
part of the reign of Louis XIV.
When the bodice had a round
neck, the sleeves were usually
made of ruffles of lace; with the
square neck, the sleeves were

Page One Hundred Eighteen

OUTLINE OF HISTORIC COSTUME

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From Pauquet Frires.

Fig. 164. — The costume of a man in 1740.

usually close-fitting
with decoration at
the elbow. See Fig.
166. Much lace,
ribbon and artificial
flowers were used.
Mantles were cape-
shaped with hoods.
In the second
quarter of the cen-
tury the one-piece
dress with a Watteau
plait came in; this
was then worn con-
tempo raucously
with the others,
and made in differ-
ent ways. See Fig.
1 63 . Sometimes the
waistline was not
defined and the

Painting by Nattier.

Fig. 166. — 18th century round neck line and ruffle lace
sleeves.

From Pauquet Frires.
Fig. 165.— Louis XVI costume, 1777.

pleats were allowe<i
to fall straif^-t from
the shouldei to the
floor; at other l1x._
the skirt was draped
at the back and sides,
showing the under-
skirt. The dresses
were often worn
short, as much at-
tention was given to
shoes and stockings.
The costume of
the men of this pe-
riod was strongly
influenced by the
paniers used by the
women and the
skirts of the coats
were stiffened and
boned. The shoes

EIGHTEENTH CENTURY

Page One Hundred Nineteen

From ZvT GescMchte cler Costume.
Fig. 167— Louis XVI costume. 1780.

Fro?n Pauquet Freres.
Fig. 1G9.— Directoire costume, 1798.

m^

From ZuT Oeschicfite der Costume. From Patiquet Frires.

Fig. 168. — British or masculine costume. Fig. 170. — The costumes of 1795 of the " Incroyables "

(men) and " Merveilleuses " and "Impossibles" (women).

Page One Hundred Twenty

OUTLINE OF HISTORIC COSTUME

had red heels, and a
tricornered hat was
worn. See Fig. 164.

The costumes of the
reign of Louis XVI
from 1774 to 1792 were
exaggerations of the
costumes of the reign
before. The bodices
were extremely tight
and stiffly boned, the
skirts were elaborately
trimmed, and immense
headdresses were
worn. See Fig. 165.
Farming at the Petit
Trianon brought in
the dainty overdress
adapted from the
Watteau style, and the

Fig. 171.— Fashions of the Consulate, 1799-1803.

shepherdess crook. See
Fig. 167. The next
change was that
brought in by the ap-
proaching French Rev-
olution. This was a
more masculine cos-
tume and was called
British or English. See
Fig. 168.

The days of the Rev-
olution (1789 - 1799)
brought in simple
fashions. Corsets were
discarded, the waist
became short and the
skirt clinging, and
cheap materials were
used. During the Di-
rectoire, the women

Fig. 172.— Costume of the First Empire,
1811.

Fig. 173. — Costume of the First Empire,
1813.

NINETEENTH CENTURY

Page One Hundred Twenty-one

adapted the classic
style, borrowing from
both Greek and Ro-
man fashions. These
costumes were scanty,
and frequently were
split up the sides.
The dresses were
often transparent and
worn without chem-
ises. See Fig. 169.
The gentlemen of this
fantastic period were
styled "Incroyables,"
"Unimaginables ";
the ladies, "Merveil-
leuses" and "Impos-
sibles." See Fig. 170.
The men wore an
exaggerated copy of
what had been previ-
ously called the
English fashion.

Reference Books
See books mentioned
under seventeenth and
nineteenth centuries.

History
76. Nineteenth

Century. —

1820-1830 George IV,
King of England,
m. 1st, morga.,
Mrs. Fitzherbert;
m. 2d, Caroline
of Brunswick-
Wolfenbiittel.

1830-1837 William
IV, King of Eng-
land, m. Adelaide of
Saxe-Meiningen.

Fig.

From Pamuet Fr^ea.
174. — Costumes of the Restoration, 1820.

Pig. 175. — Costumes of the Romantic Period during
reign of Louis PhUippe, 1830-1848.

1837-1901 Victoria
Alexandra, m.
Albert, Prince of
Saxe-Koburg and
Gotha.
1792-1795 Conven-
tion.
1795-1799 Directory.
1799-1804 Consulate.
1804-1814 Emperor
Napoleon Bona-
parte, m. 1st,
Josephine Ta-
scher, 2d, Marie
Louise, d. of
Franz I. German-
Roman Emperor.
1814-1824 Louis
XVIII, King of
France, m. Maria
of Sardinia.
1824-1830 Charles X,
King of France,
m. Maria Theresa
of Sardinia.
1830-1848 Louis-Phi-
lippe of Orleans,
King of France, m.
Marie Amalie of
the Two Sicilies.
1848-1870 Louis Na-
poleon III, m.
Eugenie de Guz-
man, Countess
of Teba.
Dress {XIX Century)
It is said that the
fashions of the Con-
sulate, 1799-1804,
which were much more
restrained, kept all
that was best in the

Page One Hundred Twenty-two OUTLINE OF HISTORIC COSTUME

fashions of the
Directory. See
Fig. 171. A beau-
tiful quality of
Indian lawns and
muslins was used,
and the shawl
introduced by
Napoleon became
popular.

During the Em-
pire (1804-1814)
materials became
more elaborate.
Things were mil-
itary. Oriental
silks and heavier
materials were
used, and the
tendency was to
be well covered.
See Figs. 17£ and
173.

The Restoration,
1814-1830 (reign
of Louis XVIII),
found the silhou-
ette changing.
See Fig. 174.
Corsets had again
come in and
caused the waist-
line to drop
slightly. The skirts
had more fullness,
were elaborately
trimmed and were
worn quite short.
(Charles X, 1824-
1830.) In the
twenties the waist
found its normal

Fig 176. — Costumes of the Second Empire, IS.jL

Fig. 177. — Gjstumes of the Second Empire, 1852.

waistline, the
sleeves became
large and gave
width to the
shoulders. Much
interest was now
being taken in
bonnets.

The reign of
Louis-Philippe,
1830-1848, was
called the Ro-
mantic Period.
See Fig. 175. The
waists were close-
fitting with a
very low neck, and
were wide off at
the shoulders.
The popular ber-
tha effect increas-
ed this still more.
The waistline was
pointed in front,
the skirt full but
with less trim-
mings, and floun-
ces were some-
times used. Shoes
were low and had
no heels. TheRe-
[)ublic under Louis
Napoleon, 1848-
1852, found the
i-kirts increasing
in size, and by the
Second Empire
under Napoleon
III, 1852-1870,
the skirts were
held out by stiff
petticoats which

NINETEENTH CENTURY

Page One Hundred Twenty-three

led up to the return of the crinoHnes and
hoops of 1854. See Figs. 176 and 177. The
long shoulder line persisted and sleeves
were bell-shaped and full at the wrist.
Jackets, shawls, and capes similar to those
worn in the First Empire were used. By
1870 the bustle had supplanted the hoops,
and from that time to the present rapid
changes have taken place.

Reference Books

Modes et Costumes Historiques, par Pau-
quet Freres, two volumes; Portraits en
Pied, Dessines par Sante Graves. Zur

Geschichte der Costume; Iconographie du
Costume, by Raphael Jacquemin; English
Costume, by Calthrop; Fashions in Paris,
1797-1897, by Octave Uzanne; Modes et
Usages au temps de Marie Antoinette,
Livre; Journal de Madame Eloffe, Le
Comte de Reiset; Marchande de Modes;
Dame Fashion, 1786-1912, by Julius M.
Price; Galerie des 31 odes et Costumes Fran-
gais, 1778-1787, par M. Paul Cornu;
Die Mode; Modes and Manners of Nine-
teenth Century, by Dr. Oskar Fischel and
Max von Boehn, translated into English
by M. Edwardes in three volumes, 1790-
1878 and Godey's Lady's Book, 1830-1890.

Drawn by Robert Henry for Felix Jungmann & Cie., Paris,

From a crayon drawing by Soulie,

Courtesy of Harper s Bazar.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Racinet. Histoire du Costume. 6 vols. Illustrated.
French text.

Dress of the Ancient Egyptians. Published by the
Metropolitan Museum of Art. Illustrated.

Ancient Egyptian Kerchief. Metropolitan Museum
Bulletin, Vol. XI, No. 11. Illustrated.

Prisse D\ivennes. Histoire de L'art Egypt. Illus-
trated. French Text.

Book of the Dead. Facsimile of Papyrus of Ani
in British Museum. Illustrated. English text.

Breasted. Ancient Times. Illustrated. English text.

Abrahams. Greek Dress. Illustrated. English text.

Evans. Greek Dress. Illustrated. English text.

Hope. Costume of the Ancients. 2 vols. Illus-
trated. English text.

Notor. La, Femme dans L'Antiquit6 Grecque.
French text.

Van Rensselaer, Mrs. Schuyler. A Cretan Snake
Goddess. Century Magazine. August, 1916.
Illustrated. English text.

Brown, G. Baldwin. How Greek AYomen Dressed.
Burlington Magazine, December, 1905, and Jan-
uary, 1906. Illustrated. English text.

r'inche. Dictionary and Cyclopaedia. 2 vols.
Illustrated. English text.

Jacquemin. Iconographie du Costume. Illustrated.
French text.

Quicherat. Histoire du Costume en France. Illus-
trated. French text.

Hottenroth. LeCostumechez lesPeuples. Ancienset
Moderns. Illustrated. German and French text.

Rosenberg. Geschichte der Kostiime. 3 vols. Il-
lustrated. German text.

Hefner- Alteneck. Trachten, Kunstwerke, und Ge-
rathschaften. 10 vols. Illustrated. German text.

Hefner- Alteneck. Costume du Moyen Age Chretien.
4 vols. French text.

Boutet de Monvel. Joan of Arc. For XV Century
Costume. Illustrated. French and English text.

Braun, Diez, Froehlich, etc. Zur Geschichte der Ko-
stiime. Illustrated. German text. English index.

Viollet-le-Duc. Dictionnaire du Mobilier FranQais.
Vols. 3 and 4. Illustrated. French text.

Shaw. Dresses and Decorations of the Middle Ages.

2 vols. Illustrated. English text.

Bonnard. (Middle Ages) Costumes historiques des
Xir, Xlir, XIV", et XV" Siecles. 2 vols. (1845).

3 vols. (1861). Illustrated. French text.
Piton. I>es Costume Civil en France de XIlP au

XIV^ Siecle. Illustrated. French text.

Herbe. Costume Frangais. Illustrated. French text.

Renan, Ary. Le Costume en France. Illustrated.
French text.

Robida, A. Ten Centuries of Toilette. Illustrated.
French and English text.

Challamel. The History of Costume in France from
Gallo-Roman to present time. Illustrated. Eng-
lish text.

Billoc. Bayeaux Tapestry. Illustrated. English text.

La Croix. Manners, Customs and Dress during the
Middle Ages and Renaissance. Illustrated. Eng-
lish text.

Calthrop. English Costume. Early English, Middle
Ages, Tudor and Stuart, and Georgian. Published
in 1 vol. and in 4 vols. Illustrated. English text.

Strutt, J. Sport and Pastimes of People of England.
Illustrated. English text.

Strutt, J. A Complete View of the Dress and Habits
of the People of England. 2 vols. Illustrated.
English text.

Pauquet Freres. Modes et Costumes Historiques.
2 vols. Illustrated. French and English text.

Hughes. Dress Design, an account of Costumes for
artists and dressmakers. 1 vol. Illustrated.
English text.

Hughes. Old English Costume. Illustrated. Eng-
lish text.

Fairholt. Costumes in England. 2 vols. Illus-
trated. English text.

Smith, J. T. The Cries of London. (Character
Costume.) Illustrated, English text.

Aria. Costume. Fanciful, historical and theatrical.
Illustrated. English text.

Le Comte de Reiset. Modes et Usages au temps de
Marie Antionette. Livre-Journal de Madame
Eloffe. Marchande ' de Modes. Illustrated.
2 vols. French text.

Grand-Carteret. I>es Elegances de la Toilette.
Louis XVI-Restauration, 1780-1825. Illustrated.
French text.

Wahlen. Moeurs, Usages et Costumes de tons les
Peuples du Monde. Illustrated. French text.

Lamesangere. Costume des Femmes Frangaises.
Illustrated. French text.

Sante Graves. Portraits en Pied. Illustrated.
French text.

Uzanne, Octave. Fashions in Paris, 1797-1897.
French and English text. Illustrated.

Price. Dame Fashion, 1786-1912. English text.
Illustrated.

Page One Hundred Twenty -eight

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Cornu, M. Paul. Galerie des Modes et Costumes
Frangaises, 1778-1787. Illustrated. French text.

Fishel arid Von Boehn translated by M. Edwardes.
Modes and Manners of the Nineteenth Century,
1790-1878. 3 vols. Illustrated. German and
English text.

Rhead. Chats on Costume. Illustrated. English text.

Earle. Two Centuries of Costume in America.
Illustrated. Published in 1 vol. and 2 vols.
English text.

McClellan. Historic Dress in America. Illustrated.
Vol. 1, 1607-1800; Vol. 2, 1800-1870. English text.

Webb. The heritage of Dress. Notes on the history
and evolution of clothes. Illustrated. English
text.

Bakst, Leon. L'art decoratif. French text.

Fales. Dressmaking. Chapter I on The Historic De-
velopment of Costume. Illustrated. English text.

Ellsworth Textiles and Costume Design.

Peterson's Magazine, 1842-1898. English text.

Godeys Lady's Book. 1830-1898. English text.

Gazette du Bon Ton. Arts, Modes and Frivolities.
French text.

Journal des Dames et des Modes. Frencfrtext.

Burbank. Woman as Decoration. English text.

Lessing, Julius von. Die Gewebe Sammlung des
Kunstgewerbe Museum. German text.

Funke, Otto von. Seidenweberei. 2 vols. German text.

Moore, N. Hudson. The Lace Book. Showing-
Specimens of Lace, or its wear in famous por-
traits. English text.

Palliser, Mrs. Bury. A History of Lace. English
text.

Ricci, Elisa. Antiche Trine Italiane. Italian text.

Pollen, Mrs. J. Hungerford. Seven Centuries of
Lace. English text.

Jourdain, M. Old Lace. English text.

Lowes, Mrs. Chats on Old Lace and Needlework.
English text.

Laprade, Mme, Laurence de.' Le Poinet de France.
French text.

Jackson, Mrs. F. Nevill. A History of Hand-made
Lace. English text.

Lefebure, Ernest. Embroidery and Lace. English

text.
Whiting, Gertrude. A Lace Guide. English text.

■Clifford, C. R. The Lace Dictionary. English text.

Huish, Marcus B. Samplers and Tapestry Em-
broideries. English Text.

Modes et Maniers D'Aujourd'Hui. Illustrated by
Lepape, 1912, Martin, 1913, and Barbier, 1914.
French text.

Nevill, Ralph. British Military Prints. Illustrated.
English text.

Falls, D. W. C. Army and Navy Information of the
Warring Powers. English text.

Wietz. Ecclesiastical Costume. 2 vols. German
text.

Villermont, Comtesse de. Histoire de la Coiffure
Feminine. Illustrated. French text.

Davey, Richard. A History of Mourning. Illus-
trated. English text.

Rhead, G. W. History of the Fan. Illustrated.
English text.

Redfern, W. B. Royal and Historic Gloves and
Shoes. . Illustrated. English text.

For Periodical References see Poole's Index and
th; Readers' Guide.

New York Public Library. Art Division. In prep-
aration, Textile list and Costume list. Each not
only lists books and articles, but parts of books
and individual plates.

ip

Drawn by Robert Henry for Felix Jungmann & Cie., Paris.

^p

A READING AND
REFERENCE LIST
ON COSTUME

BROOKLYN NEW YORK

Published BY THE BROOKLYN PUBLIC LIBRARY
FIRST PRINTING 1909 REVISED 1920

PREFACE

The primary purpose of this list is to furnish a partial guide to the resources
of the Brooklyn Public Library on the subject of costume. Completeness
has not been attempted. Practically no references to periodicals are
included, as these are generally available through Poole's Index and the
Readers' Guide. Post-cards, works of art, jewelry, and other articles
primarily artistic in nature are not included. A few unindexed periodicals,
especially useful in the study of costume, are listed.

It is hoped that the list, in addition to its use to the patrons of the
library, may serve as a contribution toward a bibliography of the subject.

CONTENTS

PAQB

Abyssinia 143

Afghanistan Hi

Africa lU

Albania. See Balkan States.

Algeria 144

Arab Costume 145

Armenia. See Turkish Empire.

Armor 145

Asiatic Islands. See Malaysia, Philippine

Islands.

Assyria 146

Australia 146

Austria-Hungary 146

Aztec Costume. See Indians of North

America.

Balkan States 147

Bedouin Costume. See Arab Costume, Egypt,
Turkish Empire.

Belgium 148

Bibliography 137

Bohemia. See Austria-Hungary.
Bosnia. See Balkan States.

Bridal Costume 148

Brittany. See France.

Brooklyn 148

Bulgaria. See Balkan States.
Burma. See India.

Canada 148

Caricatures and Caricaturists 148

Carthage. See Africa.

Central America 149

Central Asia 149

Ceylon 150

Children 150

Chile 150

China 150

Colonial Costimie. See United States.

FAGB

Corea. See Koreia.
Corsica. See France.

Costume (in Poetry) 151

Cuba 151

Denmark 151

Dutch Costume. See Nethi;rlands.

Egypt 152

England 152

England. Military Costume 156

Eskimo Costume 157

Etruscan Costume 158

Fancy Dress 158

Fans 158

Fiji Islands 158

Flemish Costume. See Belgium.

Foot-wear 158

France 159

France. Military Costume 160

General Works 138

Germany 161

Germany. Military Costume 161

Gipsy Costume 161

Gloves , 162

Greece 162

Guatemala 163

Hair, Hats. See Head-dress.

Hawaii 163

Head-dress 163

Hebrew Costume. See Jewish Costume.
Herzegovina. See Balkan States.
Holland. See Netherlands.
Hungary. See Austria-Hungary.

India 164

Indians of North America 165

Page One Hundred Thirty -four

PAGE

Indians of South America 166

Ireland 167

Italy 167

Japan 168

Jewelry 168

Jewish Costume 169

Korea 169

Lapland. See Norway, Russian Empire.

Macedonia. See Balkan States.

Malaysia 169

Maori Costume. See New Zealand.
Marriage Costume. See Bridal Costume.

Mediaeval Costume 169

Mexico 170

Montenegro. See Balk.\n States.

Morocco 170

Nepal. See Tibet.

Netherlands 170

New Zealand 171

Normandy. See France.

Norway 171

Oceanica 171

Orders 171

Palestine. See Turkish Empire.

Peasant Costume 171

Periodicals Useful for the Study of Costume ... 138

Persia 171

Peru 172

Philippine Islands 172

Poland. See Russia.

Porto Rico 172

CONTENTS

PAGE

Portugal 172

Quakers 172

Religious Costume 173

Rome 173

Roumania. See Balkan States.

Russian Empire 174

Samoa 175

Savoy .' 175

Scotland 175

Servia. See Balkan States.

Shakespearean Costume 176

Shoes. See Foot-weAjI.
Siam. See India.

South America - 177

Spain 177

Sweden 177

Switzerland 178

Theatrical Costume 178

Tibet 179

Troubadours 179

Tunis. See Africa.

Turkish Empire 179

Tyrol. See Austria-Hungary, Switzerland.

United States 180

United States. Military and Naval Costume. 181

Venice. See Italy.

Wales 182

Weapons. See Armor.

West Indies 182

Zanzibar 182

A READING AND REFERENCE LIST ON COSTUME,
ARRANGED ALPHABETICALLY

THIS OUTLINE OF HISTORIC COSTUME IS ARRANGED TO PROVIDE THE
READER WITH COMPARATIVE DATES, UNDER THE HEADING OF "HISTORY,"
THE MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF EACH CENTURY'S COSTUME, UNDER
THE HEADING "HISTORY OF DRESS," AND WITH THE AIM OF FURTHER
ELUCIDATION ON EACH PERIOD'S COSTUME, THERE WILL BE FOUND SELECTED
DATA UNDER THE HEADING OF THAT CENTURY'S "REFERENCE BOOKS."

Bibliography

Barnard, F. P. Books for Reference on English
Costume. (la his Companion to Enghsh History :
Middle Ages. 190'2. p. 115.) Ref. 942B25

Bibliography of Costume. (In Encyclopedia Ameri-
cana. 1903-04. V. 5.) Ref. 031E56

See article on " Costume." 16 titles.

Bibliography of Costume. (In New International
Encyclopaedia. 1902-04. v. 5. pp. 333-34.)

Ref. 031l6lGi

Annotated list of about 30 titles.

Bibliography of Costume. (In New International
Encyclopaedia. 1914. v. 6. p. 143.)

Bibliography of Ecclesiastical Costume. (In New
Internationa! Encycit^eedia. 1902-04. v. 5.
p. 338.) Ref. 031l6lGi

11 titles.

Bibliography of Ecclesiastical Costume. (In New
International Encyclopaedia. 1914. v. 6. p.
148.)

Bibliography of Jewish Costume. (In Jewish Ency-
clopaedia. 1901-06. V. 4. pp. 294, 301, 303.)

Ref. 933S61

Brief lists.

Bibliography of Roman Comedy Costume. (In
Saunders, C. Costume in Roman Comedy.
1909. pp. 143-145.) 391S25

Bliimner, II. Costume. (In his Home Life of the
Ancient Greeks. 1893. p. 533.) 913B65

4 titles.

Boutell, Charles. Bibliography of Costume. (In
Encyclopaedia Britannica. 9th ed. 1875-88. v.
6. pp. 478-79.) Ref. 032E56

Classified and annotated list.

Chubb, Percival, and others. Festivals and Plays in
Schools and Elsewhere. 1912. 371.7C55

Costume bibliography, p. 391.

Dillon, H. A. Books Treating of Costume. (In
Fairholt, F. W. Costume in England. 3d ed.
1885. V. 1. pp. xi-xiv. Also 4th ed. 1896.)

391F17

Evans, M. M., Lady. List of Books on Greek Dress.

(In her Chapters on Greek Dress. 1893. pp.

vi-xvii.) 391E92

Fletcher, A. C. Bibliography of Indian Adornment.
(In Hodge, F. W. Hand-book of American Indians.
1907. pt. 1. p. 20.— U. S. Bureau of Ethnology.
Bulletin 30.) Ref. 970.1U58

18 titles.

Gipsy Costume. (In Journal of the Gipsy Lore
Society. New ser. v. 1. p. 25. July, 1907.)

Ref.

Brief annotated list.

Hough, Walter. Bibliography of Indian Clothing.
(In Hodge, F. W. Hand-book of American Indians.
1907. pt. 1. p. 313.— U. S. Bureau of Ethnology.
Bulletin 30.) Ref. 970.1U58

11 titles.

Lipperheide, F. J., Freiherr von. Katalog der
Freiherrlich von Lipperheide 'schen Kostiim-
bibliothek. 2 v. 1896-1901. Ref. G016L76

Annotated and illustrated. The most complete bibliog-
raphy.

Litteratur. Kostum. (In Brockhaus' Konversations-
Lexicon. 14th ed. 1895. v. 10. p. 662.)

Ref. G033B86

14 titles.

Luard, J. History of the Dress of the British
Soldier. 1852. 355L92

Brief list of authorities, pp. III-IV.

McClellan, Elizabeth. Authorities Consulted. (In
her Historic Dress in America, 1607-1800. 1904.
pp. 405-07.) Ref. 391M12

Page One Hundred Thirty-eight

BIBLIOGRAPHY

New York City. Salmagundi Club. Catalogue of
the Costume Books in the Library of the Salma-
gundi Club. N. Y. 1906, R016No67S

Peahody Institute, Baltimore. Catalogue of the
Library.

Costume. Part I, 18S3, pp. S07-8; 2d series, part II, 1897,
p. 907; Ecclesiastical Costume, part I, 1883, p. 808; United
States Costume, 2d series, part Vfll, 1905, p. 4875.

List of books and periodical articles.

Phillip, W. A. Bibliography of Costume. (In
Encyclopaedia Britannica. 11th ed. 1910. v. 7.

p. 247.)

Quellen fiir die Kenntnis der Kostume. (In Meyer's
Konversations-Lexicon. 4th ed. 1888. v. 10,
pp. 120-21.)

Brief list of works on costume.

— Same. (In Same. 6th ed. 1904-08. v. 11,
p. 539.) Ref. G033M61KO

Preceding list revised and enlarged.

Racinet, A. C. A. Le Costume Historique. 1888.
Bibliography, v. 1. pp. 113-24. Ref. r390Rl2

Classified list of about 400 titles.

Rhead, G. W. Bibliography of Costume. (In his
Chats on Costume. 1906. pp. 15-16.) 391R46

Sargent, J. F. Customs and Costume: a list of
books and magazine articles. (In his Reading for
the Young. Issued by the Amer. Library Assoc,
1890. pp. 9-10.) Ref. 028S24

14 annotated titles of books, 88 references to periodicals.

Select List of Works and References on Costume.
(In Finsbury [England] Public Library quarterly
guide. Jan., 1909. pp. 227-34.)

Annotated and classified list.

Thurston, Herbert. Bibliography of Clerical Cos-
tume. (In Catholic Encyclopedia, v. 4. p. 421.)

Ref. 282C363

12 titles.

Vinet, Ernest. Bibliographic du Costume. (In
Racinet, A. Costume Historique. 1888. v. 1.
pp. 113-24.) • Ref. F390R12

Classified list of about 400 titles.

Waern, Cecilia. Note: Bibliography of Fans.
(In her Short Historical Sketch of Fans. 1895.
pp. 28-29.) 391W12

Brief annotated list.

Weiss, Hermann. Verzeichniss der Abbildungen,
nach ihren Quellen. (In his Kostiimkunde.
I, Alterthum. 1881. pp. xxiii-xli.) G391W42

Liit of works on ancient costume.

Weiss, Hermann. (In his Kostiimkunde. 11,
Mittelalter. 1883. pp. ii-xxviii.)

List of works on mediaeval costume.

— Same. (In his Kostiimkunde. III. 1. 2,
14tes Jahrhundert bis auf die Gegenwart. 1872.
pt. 2. pp. 1371-88.)

List of works on costumes, 14th century to the present
time.

Periodicals Useful for the Study of Costume

Delineator.

Gazette du Bon Ton

Godeys Lady's Book.

Graham's Magazine.

Graphic.

Harper's Bazar.

Ulustrated London News.

Journal des Dames et des Modes.

L'Hlustration.

Ladies' Cabinet of Fashion, Music, and Romanes.

Ladies' Home Journal.

La Mode Ulustree.

Le Costume Royal.

Le Tour du Monde.

National Geographic Magazine.

Peterson s Magazine.

Punch.

Sketch.

The Children's Costume Royal.

Ueber Land und Meer.

Vogue.

Young Ladies' Journal.

General Works

This list includes tcorks dealing with a number of
countries or subjects

Accurate Historical Account of all the Orders of Knight-
hood at Present Existing in Europe. 2 v. n.d.

Ref. 929.7H25

Descriptions of costumes and regalia of the different
orders.

Ammon, Jobst. The Theatre of Women. 1872.

R391A51

a reprint from the edition of 1586. Female costumes of
all the principal nations and peoples of Europe.

Aria, Mrs. E. Costume: Fanciful, Historical, and
Theatrical. Illus. by Percy Anderson. 1906.

391A69

Historical, peasant, oriental, ceremonial, bridal, dancine,
fancy, and theatrical costume. Colored plates and half-
tones.

Armies of To-day. Edited by W^esley Merritt and
others. 1893. 355M57

Articles, illustrated by wood-cuts, on armies of United
States, Great Britain, Germany, France, Russia, Austria-
Hungary, Italy, and Mexico.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Thirty-nine

Art of Dress; or Guide to the Toilette. 1839. 391A78

6 plates of colored engravings.

Aspin, J. Cosmorama: a View of the Costumes
and Peculiarities of all Nations. 1826. 910A81.

Illustrations are small , and are colored.

Ballin, A. S. (Mrs. Berry.) Science of Dress in
Theory and Practice. 1885. 613B19

Belin, and others. Costumes de Su&de, Norw^ge,
Danemark, HoUande, et AUemagne; dessines par
Belin, Girardet, Sharles, Verveer. [About I860.]

Ref. F391B43

20 colored plates.

Berghaus, Ileinrich. Die Volker des Erdballs.
2 V. 1861. * G572B49

Numerous colored plates.

Beyschlag, Robert. Female Costume Pictures: fig-
ures of female grace and beauty in costumes of
various centuries, from twelve drawings in pastel.
1886. R 391B57

Blanc, A. A. P. C. Art in Ornament and Dress.
1877. 646B63

" Personal adornment," pp. 49-274. Many cuts and 2
colored plates of head-dress and apparel.

Boehn, Max von. Die Mode: Menschen und
Moden im neunzehnten Jahrhundert. Ausge-
wahlt von Oskar Fischel. Text von Max von
Boehn. 1907. G391B67

Covers the period 1818-1842. Many illustrations, 36 in
color.

— Modes and Manners of the 19th Century. 3 v.
1909. 391B67

Colored plates.

Bonnard, C. Costumes Historiques des XII^, XIII®,
XIV® et XV® Siecles. Dessines et graves par
Paul Mercuri avec un texte historique et de.scriptif
par Camille Bonnard. Nouvelle Edition avec ime
introduction par Charles Blanc. 3 v. 1860-61.
Ref. F391B710

200 colored copper engravings.

Brownell, H. H. Eastern, or Old World : embracing
ancient and modern history. 2 v. 1856.

909B88

Has hand-colored wood-cuts, showing costumes from early
times to 19th century.

Burke, Sir Bernard. The Book of Orders of Knight-
hood and Decorations of Honour of all Nations.
Fully illustrated with colored plates. 1858.

R 929.7B95BO

Child, Theodore. Wimples and Crisping Pins. 1895.

391C53

Illustrated studies in the coiffure and ornaments of
women, from ancient times through the early 19th century.

Clothes and the Man; hints on the wearing and caring
of clothes. 1900. 6-16C64.

Discussion of modern male attire.

Collier, John. Art of Portrait Painting. 1905.

Ref. 757C69

41 portraits in color and half-tone, showing costumes from
Giotto to Watts.

Costume. (In Encyclopedia Americana. 1903.
V. 5.) Ref. 031E56

Historical sketch with brief bibliography.

Costume. (In Encyclopaedia Britannica. 11th ed.
1910. V. 7. pp. 224-47.) R

Historical. 51 figures. Bibliography.

Costume. (In New International Encyclopaedia.
1902. V. 5. pp. 328-34.) Ref. 031 161 Gi

Historical. 2 plates (15 figures) and bibliography.

Costume. (In New International Encyclopaedia.
2d ed. 1914. v. 6. pp. 137-48.) R

Historical. 3 plates (23 figures).

Costume. (In Nouveau Larousse - Illustr*?. v. 3.
p. 314.) R

4 colored plates of civil and military costume.

Costume of the Lower Orders of the Metropolis, n.d.

391C84

No text. Contains colored plates.

Davis, R. H. Rulers of the Mediterranean. 1894.

910D21R

Half-tone plates and wood-cuts of costumes of Gibraltar,
Malta, Tangier, Egypt, Athens and Constantinople.

Davy, Richard. Furs and Fur Garments, n.d.

391D24

General historical sketch. 12 plates showing fur gar-
ments, 9th-19th centuries.

Decorum; a practical treatise on etiquette and dress
of the best American society. 1880. 395D29

Dewing, Mrs. M. R. Beauty in Dress. 1881.

646D52

^Esthetics of women's dress.

Duller, E. Volkstrachten : Album von 50 Blatt
Kostiimbildern. Ref. 391D88

Colored lithographs taken from Duller's work.

Ecob,H.G. Well-dressed Woman. 1892. 613E19

Numerous half-tones and wood-cuts.

Page One Hundred Forty

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Book of Cos-
tume; or. Annals of fashion, from the earliest
period to the present time. Newed. 1847.

Ref. 391\V75

Detailed descriptions of European and Asiatic dress.
About 200 wood-cuts.

Ellsworth, E. P. Textiles and Costume Design.

Illustrated. 1917. 646E47

Emerson, Edwin, Jr. History of the 19th Century.

3 V. 1902. 909E53

16 colored and 32 half-tone plates, some of use for costume.

Erskine, Mrs. Beatrice. (Mrs. Stuart.) Beautiful
Women in History and Art. 1905.

Ref. 920E732

37 half-tone plates, showing English and French dress,
16th-18th centuries.

The European Delineator. Containing brief but
interesting descriptions of Russia, Sweden, Den-
mark, Norway, etc. 1815. Ref. 914E89D

20 colored engravings.

Fales, Jane. Dressmaking. A Manual for Schools
and Colleges. With chapter on the Historic Devel-
opment of Costume. Illustrated. 1917. 646F18

Fancy Dress. A Short Chronological Series of
Costumes, n.d. 391F19

Farnsworth, E. 0. The Art and Ethics of Dress.
Illustrated. 1915. 177F23

Ferrario, Giulio, and others. Le Costume, Ancien
ctModeme. 18 v. 1815-29. Ref. F391F37

Africa (2 v.), America (2 v.), Asia (4 v.), Europe (6 v. in 9).
General sketch of history of costume for practically every
nation of historic note. Illustrated with hand-colored
copperplates.

Finden, William. Finden's Tableaux. 1837.

Ref. 769F49

13 scenes of national character, beauty, and costume.

Fo.v, G. P. Fashion, the Power that Influences the
World. 3ded. 1871. 391F79

Chiefly discusses modern male dress.

Gale, E. C. Hints on Dress. 1872. 646G15

Discussion of modern costume.

Godwin, E. W. Dress and Its Relation to Health
and Climate. 1884. 391G59

Small wood-cuts of dress of various types, from early
Egyptian times to about 1850.

Grasset de Saint-Sauveur, G. Costumes, n.p., n.d.

Ref. 391G76

Hand-colored engravings of costumes of all countries.

Grosvenor, G. H. Scenes from Every Land. Second

Series. 1909. 910G87

— Scenes from Every Land. Third Series. 1912.

910G87S
GuiUaumot, A. E. Costumes de I'Op^ra. 1883.

Ref. F391G95C

50 colored plates, 17th and 18th centuries.

Haweis, Mrs. H. R. Art of Dress. 1879. 391H38

Artistic principles of costume. Many wood-cuts.

Heaton, H. A. Brooches of Many Nations. 1904.

391H44

78 wood-cuts of brooches, from Assyria to Scotland.

Hefner- Alieneck, J. H. v. Trachten, Kunstwerke,
und Gerathschaften, vom friihen Mittelalter bis
Ende des achtzehnten Jahrhunderts. 5 v. 1879-
89. R G709H46

720 colored plates.

Heyden, A. von. Die Tracht der Kulturvolker
Europas, von Zeitalter Homers bis zum Beginne
des XIX. Jahrhunderts. 1889. G39lHei

222 illustrations (wood-cuts).

Higgin, L. Art as Applied to Dress. 1885.

646H63

^Esthetics of dress.

Hints about Mens Dress. By a New York clubman.
1888. 646H66

Principles of selection.

Hooge, Romeyn de. {?) Costumes, n.p., n.d.

Ref. 391H77

43 copper-plates of costumes of many countries.

Ho-pe, Thomas. Costume of the Ancients. 2 v.
New cd. 1841. Ref. 391H79

Brief descriptive sketch of Egyptian, Asiatic, Greek, and
Roman costume, followed by 321 outline plates.

Hottenroth, F. Trachten, Hans-, Feld-, und Kriegs-
gerathschaften der Volker alter und neuer Zeit.
2 V. n.d. G391H83

120 colored plates and numerous woodcuts.

Hughes, Talbot. Dress Design: an account of cos-
tume, for artists and dressmakers. 1913.

646H89

Has 35 collotype plates and numerous other illustrations,
900^1870

Hughes, T. P. Dress. (In his Diet, of Islam.
1895. pp. 92-99.) Ref. 297H89

Mohammedan dress. 9 wood-cuts.

Hunt, Mrs. M. (Averil Beaumont.) Our Grand-
mothers' Gowns, n.d. 391H94

Contains colored plates.

Hutchinson, H. N. and others. Living Races of
Mankind. 1902. Ref. 572H97

Half-tones of nearly all extant nations, in modern dress.

Iconographic Encyclopedia. 1886. v. 2.

Ref. 033117

See " Dress " and " Costume " in Index, and plates 34-38
(80 figures).

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Forty-one

Ireland, J. B. Wall-Street to Cashmere: five years
in Asia, Africa, and Europe, 1851-56. 1859.

910IG5

Colored plate of Arab costume, and wood-cuts of other
costumes.

Jacquemin, R. Histoire G6nerale du Costume
Civil, Religieux, et Militaire du IV""'' au XIl''"''
Siecle.— Occident (.315-1100). Paris, n.d. (?188-.)

Ref. F391J19

Jeune, Lady. Dress for Motoring : dress for ladies.
(In Harmsworth, A. C. and others. Motors and
Motor-driving. 190'-2. pp. 66-71.) 621.4H^28

4 cuts of motor costume.

Johnson, John. A Journey from India to England,
through Persia, Georgia, Ru.ssia, Poland, and
Prussia, in the Year 1817. 1818. 915J67

5 colored plates.

Jones, William. Coronation Robes. (In his
Crowns and Coronations. 1883. pp. 491-504.)

394J79

Wood-cuts of costumes.

Joyce, T. A. Women of All Nations. 2 vols.
1908. 572J89

25 colored plates and many smaller illustrations of the
women of all countries.

Kohl, J. G. Die Volker Europas. 1872.

G914K79

8 colored plates.

Koppen, F. von. Armies of Europe, illustrated.
1890. 3.55K77

20 double-page colored plates and many cuts of uniforms
of modern Europe.

Kostiim. (In Brockhaus' Konversations-Lexicon.
14th ed. 1895. v. 10.) Ref. G033B86

Historical sketch, with 4 colored plates Bibliography.

Kostiim. (In Meyer's Konversations-Lexicon. 4th
ed. 1880. v. 10. pp. 120-21.)

Ref. G033M61KO

Historical survey. 3 double- page colored plates (41
figures). Bibliography.

— Same. 10th ed. 1905. v. 11. pp. 537-39.
V. 20. p. 242.

3 colored plates with smaller figures than those in the
4th ed.

Kretschmei , Albert. Costumes of All Nations, from
the earliest times to the 19th century. 1882.

Ref. 391 K92

lot colored plates in general chronological arrangement.

— Die Trachten der Volker, vom Beginn der Ge-
schichte bis zum 19ten Jahrhundert. 1864.

Ref. G391K92T

Lacy, T. H. Female Costumes, Historical, National,
and Dramatic. 1865. Ref. 391H152C2

Contains colored plates.

— Male Costume, Historical, National, and Dra-
matic. 1868. Ref. 391L152C1

No text. Contains colored plates.

Lechevallier-Chevignard, G. Costumes Historiques
de Femmes du XIV^"*^ au XVIir"'" Siecle.
1889. Ref. F391L45

Colored plates.

Lipperheide, F. J., Freiherr von. Katalog der
Freiherrlich von Lipperheide'schen Kostiimbib-
liothek. 2. v. 1896-1901. RG016L76

03? illustrations from catalogued works, showing cos-
tumes of all periods. Half-tones.

Loemyer, J. F. N. (Auguste Wahlen.) Mueurs,
Usages, et Costumes de tons les Peui)les du
Monde.— Oceanic. 1843. RF919L82

34 colored plates.

Lord, W. B. The Corset and the Crinoline; a book
of modes and costumes, from remote periods to
the present time. 1865. 391L11

54 full-page and other engravings.

Louandre, Charles. Les Arts Somptuaires. 1857-
58. 3 v. (1 V. text, 2 v. plates.) Ref.

Special attention paid to French costume. Richly colored
plates of costume, etc., from 5th-17th century MSS.

Le luxe (Paris) Supplement. Ball, Winter, and Sum-
mer Costumes for 1893-94. RF391L97

Contains colored plates.

Malerische Studien: eine Reise um die Welt, in
200 farbigen Photographien. n.d. RG910M24

Many of the 200 colored half-tones give the modern
costumes of European and Asiatic countries.

Malliot, Joseph. Recherches sur les Costumes . . .
des ancicns peuples. 3 v. 1809. F391M25

Marechal, P. S. Costumes Civils Actuels de tous
les peuples connus. 4 v. 1788. RF391M32

Mazny, M. A. Types et Caracteres Ancicns. 1841 .

RF390M47

21 colored plates.

Menard, Rene. Le Vetement. (In his Vie Priv^e
des Ancicns. 1881. v. 2. pp. 227-384.)

F913M53

Ancient, Oriental, Greek, and Roman costumes. Nearly
300 outline illustrations.

Merrifield, Mrs. M. P. Dress as a Fine Art; with
suggestions on children's dress. With an introd.
on head dress by Prof. Fairholt. 1854. 391M56

Outline plates.

Page One Hundred Forty-two

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Michel, F. F. F. (Antony Real.) Story of the
Stick in all Ages and Lands. 1891. 391M62

History of walking sticks. Several plates incidentally
showing costume.

Miln, L. J. When We were Strolling Players in the
East. 1894. 914.39G35

Costumes of India, China, and Japan. About 20 plates.

Moore, N.H. Lace Book. 746M82

Half-tone plates of lace and lace-trimmed costumes.

Morris, Charles. Home Life in all Lands. 1907.

910M97HO

" In the World's Tailor-shop," chap. 2; " In the World's
Dressing-room," chap. 3. Many half-tones of costume.

Moses, H. Designs of Modern Costume, etc. ca.
1815. R391M91

29 plates.

Murray, A. S. Costume. (In Encyc. Brit. 9th
ed. 1878.) Ref. 032E56

Historical and descriptive, with 52 wood-cuts and bibliog-
raphy.

National Beauties and their Costumes, n.d.

391N27B

1.5 photograph-s of women in various European and
Oriental countries.

National Types and Costumes, n.d.

391N27

Photographs of feriinine types and costumes of Europe
and Asia.

Oliphant, Mrs. M. 0. W. Dress, n.d. 646047

.Esthetics of dress. Several illustrations.

Parmentier, A. Album Historique, Publie sous la
Direction de Ernest Lavisse. 4 vols. 1900-1907.

Ref. F909P25

Each volume has 1500 to 2000 wood-cuts.

Pauquet Freres. Illustrations of English and
Foreign Costume, from the 15th Century to the
Present Day. 1875. Ref. 391P33I

96 colored plates (Europe, Asia, Africa), without text.

051P48

Monthly articles on current fashions. Steel and colored
plates of current female fashion.

Pickering, C. Races of Man. 1854. 572P59

12 colored plates of savage types.

Pictures of Other Folks at Home. n.d. 914.6P37

lUiistrations of typical costumes.

Planche, J. R. Cyclopedia of Costume, from the
Commencement of the Christian Era to the
Accession of George the Third. 2 v. 1876.

Ref. 391P69C

Volume 1, dictionary; volume 2, general history of cos-
tume in Europe. Many chroaio-lithographs, "plain plates"
and wood-cuts.

Petersons Magazine. 1856-98.

Porter, Sir R. K. Travels in Georgia [Asia], Persia,
Armenia, Ancient Babylonia, during the years
1817, 1818, 1819, 1820. 2 vols. 1821. 915P84

Illustrated with portraits, plates, and maps.

Praga, Mrs. Alfred. What to Wear and when to
Wear it. 1903. 391P89

Esthetics of dress. S half-tones of head-dress and
female costumes.

Prichard, J. C. The Natural History of Man.

1848.

573P947N

50 colored and 5 plain steel engravings, and 97 wood-cuts
of native races. 21 of the colored are of American Indians.

— Same. 4th ed. 2 vol. 573P947
Quigley, Dorothy. What Dress Makes of Us. 1897.

391Q6

Many outline cuts.

Racinet, A. Costume Historique. 6 v. 1888.

Ref. F390R12

500 plates (300 colored) of practically every country and
period. Bibliography. One of the most complete and
accurate works on the subject.

Rhead, G. W. Chats on Costume. 1906. 391R46

Colored frontispiece and 117 wood-cuts and line engrav-
ings. Bibliography.

— Modern Practical Design. 1912. 740R46M

— Treatment of Drapery in Art. 1904. 743R46

50 diagrams and line drawings, and 32 half-tone plates.

Ridpath, J. C. Great Races of Mankind. 4 v.
1892. Ref. 572R54

See " Costume " and " Dress " in general index. Illus-
trations include colored " type pictures " and many wood-
cuts of many nationalities.

— Universal History. 17 vols. 1896.

Ref. 909R54U

Practically same material as his " Great Races."

Ritchie, Leitch. Beauty's Costume: female figures
in the dresses of all times and rations. 1838.

Ref. 391R59

12 steel plates with brief descriptive text.

St. John, J. A. Oriental Album. 1848.

R916.2S1430

A series of 30 lithographic plates, with a number of
wood engravings.

Songster, William. Umbrellas and their History.
1871. 391S22

Historical sketch, with caricatures.

Seguin, L. G. Picturesque Tour in Picturesque
Lands. 1881. Ref. 914S45

Nearly 100 wood-cuts of European costumes.

Shoberl, Frederic. World in Miniature. 42 v.

1821-27. Ref.

Colored engravings of costumes of all nations. (See
under separate countries.)

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Forty-three

Simpson, William. Picturesque People: groups
from all quarters of the globe. 187C.

Ref. 915861

18 colored plates.

— The Seat of War in the East. 2 v, in 1. 1855-
56. Ref. 947S61

81 lithographs, introducing uniforms of Crimean War.

Skeat, W. W. The Past at our Doors. 1911.

390S62
" The Story of our Dress." pp. 50-122 Illustrated.

Spalart, Robert von. Versuch iiber das Kostum der
vorziiglichsten Volker des Alterthums. 3 v.
1796-98. RG391S73

Contains colored plates.

Steele, F. M. Beauty of Form and Grace of Ves-
ture. 1892. 613.7S81

iEsthetics of dress.

Sturgis, Russell. Costume. (In Universal Cyclo-
paedia. 1900. V. 3. pp. 209-12.) R03ir58

Historical.

Traphagen, Ethel. Costume Design and Illustration.

"With outline of historic costume. Illustrated.
Un Siecle de Modes Feminines. 1794-1894. Quatre

cents toilettes reproduites en couleurs d'apres des

documents authentiques. 1896. 391S57

JJzanne, L. 0. The Sunshade, the Glove, the Muff.

1883. 391U99S

Historical. Numerous photogravures.

Vackon, Marius. La Femme dans I'Art. 1893.

Ref. F759V11

400 wood-cuts, from paintings and sculptures, of women
from early Egypt to the present time.

Vecellio, C. Costumes Anciens et Modernes. 2 v.
1860. RF391V41

513 illustrations of all types of people. Text in Italian
and French.

Volbtandige Volker gallerie in getreuen Abbildungen
aller Nationen. Vols. 1, 3. 1830-39. G910V92

Colored illustrations of people in various countries of
Europe, Asia, and .Vfrica.

Wagner, L. Manners, Customs, and Observances.
1895. Ref. 390W13

Scattered notes on peculiarities of costume. See Index.

Walker, Isaac. Dress: as It has Been, Is, and Will
Be. 1885. 39nYl7

General discussion. A few wood-cuts.

Ward, Mrs. E. S. Phelps. What to Wear. 1873.

No illustrations. 613W25

Webb, W. M. Heritage of Dress; being notes on
the history and evolution of clothes. Illustrated.
1908. 391W36

Weise & Co. 100 historische Kostum- and Volks-
trachten-Bilder. n.d. R391W42

Colored plates, no text.

Weiss, Hermann. Kostiimkunde; Geschichte der
Tracht und des Geraths. 3 v. in 4. 1872-1883.

G391W42

I. Die Volker des Alterthums. 2e. Auflage. 1881.

454 wood-cuts and 8 chromolithographic plates.

II. Das Mittelalter, vom 4. bis zum 14. Jahr-

hundert. 2e. Auflage. 1883.

367 wood-cuts and 8 chromolithographic plates.

m. Vom 14ten Jahrhundert bis auf die
Gegenwart. 2 pts. 1872.

418 wood-cuts (900 figures).

Whitcomb, Merrick. History of Modern Europe.
1903. 940W58

Several illustrations of costume.

Whole Art of Dress. 1830. 391W62

Engraved illustrations of hats, boots, neckwear, etc.

Willemin, N. X. Choix de Costumes Civils et Mili-
taires des Peuples de I'Antiquite. 2 v. 1802.

RF913W69

ISO engraved plates.

Woolson, A. G. Dress-reform. Lectures on dress
as it affects the health of women. 1874. 613W91

A few wood-cuts.

Young, J. R. Around the World with Gen. Grant.
2 V. 1879. 910Y73

Many wood-cuts of costumes.

Zogbaum, R. F. Horse, Foot, and Dragoons. 1888.

355Z85

Wood-cuts of uniforms of France, Great Britain, Germany,
and the United States.

Zur Geschichte der Kostume; nach Zeichnungen von
Wilhelm Diez [and others.] Herausg. und verlegt
von Braun & Schneider, n.d. (Miinchener
Bilderbogen.) Ref. G391Z96

119 colored plates (Nos. 296-1212, not consecutive),
showing costumes of Europe and .Asia, 4th to 19th centuries.
No index or systematic arrangement.

Abyssinia

Halle, Clifford. To Menelek in a Motor-car. 1913.

916.3H18

72 illustrations from photographs.

Skinner, R. R. Abyssinia of To-day. 1906.

916.3S62

Abyssinian costume, pp. 126-30, 135. 15 half-tone plates.

Vivian, HerbeH. Abyssinia. 1901. 916.3V85

80 illustrations.

Page One Hundred Forty-four

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Afghanistan

Bouillane de Lacoste, Major de. Around Afghanis-
tan. 1909. 915.8B76

83 illustrations, many of them showing costume.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Afghanistan. (In her Book of Costume. 1847.
pp. 449-.56.) Ref. 391W75

7 wood-cuts.

Hamilton, Angus. Afghanistan. 1906. 915.8H21

Costume in Kabul, pp. 380-84. Several half-tone plates
of costume.

Africa

Adolf Friedrieh, Duke of Mecklenburg-Schw^rin.
From the Congo to the Niger and the Nile. 2 v.
1913. 916A23

Angas, G. F. Kafirs Illustrated. Also portraits of
other races inhabiting South Africa. 1849.

Ref. 916.8A58

Scattered references on costume. 30 colored plates and
11 wood-cuts.

Ferrario, Giulio. Afrique. (In his Costume. 1815-
29. Afrique. v. 1-2. [v. 5-6.]) Ref. F391F37

Colored copperplates of ancient and modern costume.

Hall, R. N. Great Zimbabwe, Mashonaland,
Rhodesia. 1905. 916.8H17

Several half-tones of natives.

Johnston, Sir Harry. Liberia. 2 v. 1906.

966J22

" Clothing," V. 2, pp 9.54-70. Several colored plates and
numerous half-tones of natives.

Kidd, Dudley. Essential Kafir. 1904. 916.8K46

19 half-tone plates of costumes.

— Savage Childhood: a story of Kafir children.
1906. 572K46

32 half-tone plates of children.

Landor, A. H. Savage-. Across Wildest Africa.
2 V. 1907. 916.6L26

See " Costumes " in Index. Many half-tone plates of
African and Moorish dress.

Lloyd, A. B. Uganda to Khartoum: life and ad-
ventures on the upper Nile. 2d ed. 1907.

916.7L79

Dress of the Gangs, pp. 173-77. Over 30 illustrations of
costume.

Mackintosh, C. W. Coillard of the Zambesi. 1907.

BC679M

About 25 half-tones of Zambesi natives.

Neufeld, Charles. Prisoner of the Khaleefa. 1899.

916.2N48

25 half-tone plates of Soudanese Arab dress.

Powell, R. S. S. Baden-. Natives of British East
Africa. (In his Sketches in Mafeking and East
Africa. 1907. pp. 140-46.) R916P88

Numerous sketches and wash-drawings of natives of South
and East Africa.

Shoberl, Frederic. World in Miniature: Africa.
4 V. (Vol. I missing.) n. d. Ref. 916S55

45 colored engravings of Moors and Negroes.

Sladen, Douglas. Carthage and Tunis. 2 v. 1906.

916.1S63

Numerous half-tones and one colored plate of costumes of
Tunis.

Stow, G. W. Native Races of South Africa. 1905.

572S89

See " Clothing " in index.

Tully, Richard. Narrative of a Ten Years' Resi-
dence at Tripoli in Africa. Also, An Account of
the Domestic Manners of the Moors, Arabs, and
Turks. 2ded. 1817. * 916.1J92

6 of the 8 colored plates show costume.

Vollstandige Volkergallerie. Erster Band, zweite
Abtheilung.— Afrika. 1830. G910V92 (Vol. 1.)

Colored illustrations.

Werner, A. Natives of British Central Africa.
1906. 572W49

Dress of children, pp. 105-06. Most of the 32 half-tone
plates show costume.

Albania. See Balkan States

Algeria

Ayer, Emma B. A Motor Flight through Algeria
and Tunisia. 1911. 916A97

Illustrated from photographs Costumes of Arabs, of
Arab women, and of dragomans described.

Berbrugger, M. Alg^rie; historique, pittoresque, et
monumentale. 3 v. 1843. RF965B48

Lithographs and wood-cuts of natives and French soldiers.
See also v. 1, pp. 13-15 (Moorish women), and v. 3, pt. 5
(Algerian races).

Leeder, S. H. The Desert Gateway. 1910.

916.5L48

10 plates, from photographs.

Nesbitt,F.E. Algeria and Tunis. 1906. 916.5N45

70 colored illustrations.

Simpson, M. H. Hilton-. Algiers and Beyond.
1906. 916.5S61

9 half-tone plates of costume.

Wilkin, Anthony. Among the Berbers of Algeria,
n.d. 916.5W68

See also Arab Costume and Africa

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Forty-five

Arab Costume

PuTv.:hardt, J. L. Dress of the Bedouins. (In his
Notes on the Bedouins and Wahabys. 1831.
V. 1. pp. 230-35.) 915.3B94N

Bury, G. Wyman. The Land of Uz. 1911.

915.3B975

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Palestine and Syria. (In her Book of Costume.
1847. pp. 476-82.) Ref. 391W75

3 wood-cuts.

Ferrario, Giulio. Costumes Barbaresques. (In his
Costume. 1815-29. Afrique. v. 1. [v. 5.]
pp. 354-417.) Ref. F391F37

6 colored copperplates of Arabs of Barbary States.

Ireland, J. B. From Wall Street to Cashmere.
1859. 910165

Colored frontispiece of Arab costume.

Lane, E. W. Arabian Society in the Middle Ages.
1883. 915.3L26

Dress, pp. 116-18, 157.

Levati, Amhrogio. Arabes. (In Ferrario, G. Cos-
tume. 1817. Asie. v. 3. [v. 3.] pp. 173-
261.) Ref. 391F37

8 colored copperplates of Arab costume.

Neufeld, Charles. Prisoner of the Khaleefa. 1899.

916.2N48

25 half-tone plates of Soudanese Arab dress.

Riiete, Emily. Memoirs of an Arabian Princess;
tr. by Lionel Strachey. 1907. BR921S

pp. 85-91. 6 half-tone

Female fashions of Zanzibar,
plates of Zanzibar Arabs.

Sladcn, Douglas. Carthage and Tunis

Several plates of Bedouins.

See also Africa, Egypt, Turkish Empire

2 V. 1906.
916.1S63

Armenia. See Turkish Empire

Armor and Weapons

Brett, Edwin J. Pictorial and Descriptive Record
of the Origin and Development of Arms and
Armor. 1894. R399B84

Calvert, A. F. Spanish Arms and Armor. 1907.

399C16

3S6 illustrations.

Davies, A. C. Fox-. Art of Heraldry; an Encyclo-
paedia of Armory. 1904. Ref. 929.2D25A

Plates (some colored) and cuts of armor.

Demmin, Auguste. Illustrated History of Arms and
Armor. 1877. (Bell's artists' library.)

399D38

Nearly 2000 outline illustrations.

Druitt, H. Manual of Costume as Illustrated by
Monumental Brasses. 1900. 391D79

110 illustrations (half-tone) of English armor and dress of
the 14th and loth centuries.

Eccleston, James. Introduction to English Antiq-
uities. 1847. 913E17

See " Armor " in Index. Outline cuts of armor to about
1660.

Ffoulkes, Chas. Armor and Weapons. 1909.

399F43

52 figures and 11 plates.

— The Armorer and his Craft, from the 11th to the
16th Century. 1912. R399F43A

69 diagrams and 32 plates.

— Inventory and Survey of the Armories of the
Tower of London. 2 v. 1916. R399L84

Gardner, J. S. Armor in England, from the Earliest
Times to the 17th Century. 1898. 399G22

16 colored plates and more than 80 other illustrations.

— Foreign Armor in England. 1898. 759S84

8 colored plates and 44 illustrations in the text.

Gosse, P. H. Assyria. 1852. 913G678

" War," pp. 203-397. Cuts of Assyrian armor and mili-
tary dress.

Hewitt, John. Ancient Armor and Weapons in
Europe, to the End of the 13th Century. 3 v.
1855. 399H61

Illustrations from contemporary monuments.

Hodgetts, J. F. The English in the Middle Ages,
from the Norman Usurpation to the Stuarts.
1885. 914.2H68

" Armor,'' pp. 111-43.

Lacombe, P. Arms and Armor in Antiquity and the
Middle Ages, 1869. 399L14

— Same. 1870.

Lacroix, Paul. Arms and Armor. (In his Arts in
the Middle Ages. n.d. pp. 75-105.)

Ref. 970L14

Colored plale and wood-cuts.]

MacJclin, H. W. Brasses of England. 1907.

739M15B

Wood-cuts and descriptions of armor, 1277-1625.

739M15

Wood-cuts from rub-

Monumental Bras.ses. 1905.

" Armor," 13th-17th centuries,
bings.

Page One Hundred Forty-six

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Michaud, J. F. ■ History of the Crusades. 2 v.
n.d. Ref. 940M62H

100 plates by Gustave Dor6.

Saxon, Mrs. A. L. Belt and Spur: stories of the
knights of the Middle Ages. 1883. 940S27

16 colored illustrations from contemporary MSS.

Scott, Sir J. S.D. British Army. 3 v. 1868-1880.

355S42

" Body armor," v, 1, pp. 192-222. Many plates, with
notes.

Seymour, T. D. Homeric Arms. (In his Life in
the Homeric Age. 1907. pp. 629-82.) 913S52

13 cuts of arms and armor.

Stuyvesant, R. Collection of Arms and Armor of
Rutherford Stuyvesant, 1643-1909. 1914.

R399S93

50 plates.

Trumble, Alfred. Sword and Scimetar: the Ro-
mance of the Crusades. 1886. 940T86

The illustrations, by Dor6, show costumes of the Cru-
saders. More plates in Michaud, " History of the Cru-
sades."

Viollet-Le-Duc, E. E. Military Architecture. 1879.

623V79

Many wood-cuts of fortifications and weapons of the
Roman and mediseval periods.

See also the entries under General Works

Asiatic Islands. See Malaysia, Philippine
Islands

Assyria

Ferrario, Giulio, and others. Costumes des Assy-
riens, des Babyloniens. (In his Costume. 1817.
Asie. V. 3 [v. 3]. pp. 351-81.) Ref. I391F37

Colored copperplate of Assyrian costume.

Gosse,P.H. Assyria. 1852. 913G678

" Costume," pp. 437-87. 20 cuts. Military costume,
pp. 203-397.

Layard, A. H. Nineveh and its Remains. 1852.

913L42

Dress, pp. 248-63. A few wood-cuts show costume.

Maspero, G. Life in Ancient Assyria. (In his Life
in Ancient Egypt and Assyria. 1892. pp.
194-376.) 913M41

Cuts of costume from Assyrian antiquities.

Australia

Lumholtz, Carl. Among Cannibals in Australia,
and the Aborigines of Queensland. 1889.

919.4L95

See " Costume " in index. Wood-cuts of aboriginal cos-

Spencer, W. B. Native Tribes of Central Australia.
1899. 572S74N

" Clothing, weapons, implements, decorative art," pp.
567-655. Many half-tones and wood-cuts of native cos-
tumes.

— Northern Tribes of Central Australia. 1904.

572S74

" Clothing and ornament," pp. 683-95. Half-tones and
cuts of dress.

Thomas, N. W. Natives of Australia. 1906.

(Native races of the British Empire.) 572T45N

" Dress," pp. 63-69. Half-tone ;

Austria-Hungary

An Accurate and Impartial Narrative of the War,
. . . Comprising the Campaigns of 1793, 1794,
and 1795. 1796. 821A172

Has 2 colored plates of Hungarian foot-soldiers.

Alexander, William. Picturesque Representations
of the Dress and Manners of the Austrians. n.d.

Ref. 391A37P

50 colored engravings, with descriptive text.

Bertrand de Moleville, A. F. Costume of the Hered-
itary States of the House of Austria. 1804.

R391B55

50 colored engravings.

Boner, Charles. Transylvania; its Products and
its People. 1865. 914.39B71

See " Costume " in Index. 2 plates (1 colored) and 3 cuts
of costume.

Colquhoun, A. R. Whirlpool of Europe; Austria-
Hungary and the Hapsburgs. 1907. 943.6C72

About 40 half-tone plates of costume, especially peasant
costume.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Hungary. (In her Book of Costume. 1847.
pp. 355-59.) Ref. 391W75

2 wood-cuts.

Eighty Club. Hungary: its people, places, and
politics. 1907. • 914.39F34

8 half-tone plates of national costume, peasant and official.

Gerard, E. The Land beyond the Forest: facts,
figures, and fancies from Transylvania. 2 v.
1888. 914.39G35

See " Contents " of each volume. 6 photogravures and
15 wood-cuts of costume.

Grohman, W. A. Baillie. The Land in the Moun-
tains: past and present of Tyrol. 1907.

943.7G87

a few half-tone plates of costume.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Forty-seven

Hering, G. E. Sketches on the Danube, in Hungary
and Transylvania. 1838. R914.39H53

Lithographic illustrations, from drawings by the author.
No text.

Illustrirte Geschiehte der K. K. Oesterreichischen
Armee. 2 v. 1888. G355I29

62 colored plates.

Koppen, F. von. Austria-Hungary. (In his Armies
of Europe, illustrated. 1890. pp. 36-51.)

355K77

2 double colored plates (12 illustrations, including 1 of
naval uniforms) and 4 text illustrations of Austrian uniforms.

Kuhn, Gen. von. Austro-Hungarian Army. (In
Armies of To-day. 1893. pp. 260-310.)

35oM57

13 cuts of uniforms.

Mitton, G. E. Austria. 1914. 914.36M68

Colored plates.

IRossi, Francesco. Costume Ancien et Moderne des
Hongrois. (In Ferrario, G. Costume. 1827.
Europe, v. 6 [v. 17].) Ref. 391F37

6 colored copperplates of Hungarian costumes, from Attila
to peasants of 1825. Plates 3 and 4 show military uniforms.

Serres, P. M. T. de. L'Autriche. 6 v. 1821.

F914.36S48

48 engravings, representing more than 105 different
characters.

Shoberl, Frederic. World in Miniature. Austria.
2 V. n.d. Ref. 914.36S55

32 colored engravings.

Smith, F. B. Budapest; the city of the Magj^ars.
1903. 914.39S64

Colored plate and about 50 half-tone illustrations of
Hungarian costumes.

Trollope, Frances. Vienna and the Austrians. 2 v.
1838. 914.36T84

7 plates of costume.

Uniforms of the Six Great Powers of Europe. (In
Standard Dictionary. Sup. 1903. p. 2187.)

Ref. 423F98SU

Section of colored plates, showing 14 Austrian uniforms.

Waring, G. E. Tyrol and the Spirit of the Alps.
1880. 914.37W27

13 wood-cuts of costume.

Aztec Costume. See Indians of North America

Balkan States

Ashoth, J. de. Official Tour through Bosnia and
Herzegovina. 1890. 914.39A73

16 wood-cuts. Occasional references to costume.

Brailsford, II. N. Macedonia: its races and their
future. 1906. 914.96B814

Several half-tone plates of costume.

De Windt, Harry. Through Savage Europe. 1907.

914.97D52

About 30 illustrations of costume.

Durham, M. E. Burden of the Balkans. 1905.

949.6D96

12 illustrations of costumes of Albania and Montenegro.
— Through the Lands of the Serb. 1904.

914.97D96

Illustrations of costumes of Albania, Montenegro, Servia.

Evans, A. J. Through Bosnia and the Herzegovina

on Foot. 2d ed. 1877. 914.39E92

Numerous wood-cuts and scattered references on dress.

Fox, Frank. Bulgaria. 1915. 949.7F79

25 colored pictures of costume.

Eraser, J. F. Pictures from the Balkans. 1906.

914.96F84

Colored frontispiece and 40 full-page illustrations from
photographs.

Henderson, P. E. A British Officer in the Balkans,
1909. 914.36H49

Herbert, W. von. By-paths in the Balkans. 1906.

914.96H53

" Costumes and customs," pp.1133-46.

Hering, George. Sketches on the Danube, in Hun-
gary and Transylvania. 1838. R914.39H53

Lithographic illustrations from drawings by the author.
No text.

Holbach, M. M. Bosnia and Herzegovina. 1909.

914.39H72

Photographs of costume.

Hutchinson, F. K. Motoring in the Balkans. 1909.

914.36H97

Numerous illustrations of dresa, reproduced from photo-
graphs.

Jackson, F. H. The Shores of the Adriatic. The
Austrian side: the Kiistenlande, Istria, and
Dalmatia. 1908. 914.37J12

32 half-tone plates, from photographs; many line-draw-
ings. Consult Index under " costume."

Koppen, F. von. Turkey and the States of the Bal-
kan Peninsula. (In his Armies of Europe, illus-
trated. 1890. pp. 73-78.) 355K77

Colored plates of uniforms of Servia (5 figures) ; Bulgaria
(4 figures); Roumania (10 figures, 82 text illustrations).

Moore, Frederick. The Balkan Trail. 1906.

9l"4.96M82
Observer in the Near East. 1907. 949.7014

About 30 plates of Balkan costumes.

Page One Hundred Forty-eight

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Shoberl, Frederic. World in Miniature: Illyria and
Dalmatia, and the adjacent countries. 2 v.
1827. Ref. 914.37S55

32 colored engravings of Balkan costumes.

Singleton, Esther. Turkey and the Balkan States,
as described by great writers. 1908. 949.6S61

49 half-tone plates, Bulgarians, Servians, Croatians,
Albanians, etc.

Stratilesco, Tereza. From Carpathian to Pindus:
pictures of Roumanian country life. 1906.

949.8S89

" CsstuTios," pp. 112-17. Most of the 63 half-tone plates
show costume.

Wace,A.J.B. The Nomads of the Balkans. 1914.

914.96W11

Chapter IV: " The Costumes of.Samarina."

Wyon, Reginald. The Balkans from Within. 1904.

914.97W99
See also Turkish Empire

Bedoxhn Costume. See Arab Costume, Egypt,
Turkish Empire

Belgium

Anderson, Mrs. Larz. The Spell of Belgium. 1915.

914.93A54

Colored plates.

Boulger, D. C. Belgian Life in Town and Country.
1904. 914.93B76

4 half-tones of costume.

Edwards, G. W. Some Old Flemish Towns. 1911.

914.93E26

Colored illustrations, and others.

Holland, Clive. The Belgians at Home. 1911,

914.93H73

Colored illustrations, and others.

Koppen, F. von. Holland and Belgium. (In his
Armies of Europe. 1890. pp. 70-72.) 355K77

Colored plate (9 figures) and 2 text illustrations of Belgian
uniforms.

Omond, G. W. Belgium. 1908. 949.3056B

Colored illustrations.

— Bruges and W^est Flanders. Painted by Am^d^e
Forestier. 1906. 914.93056

13 colored plates of Flemish costume.

Shoberl, Frederic. World in Miniature. The
Netherlands, n.d. Ref. 914.92S55

18 colored engravings of Dutch and Belgian costume.

Bohemia. See Austria-Hungary
Bosnia. See Baijcan States

Bridal Costume

Aria, Mrs. E. Of ceremonial and bridal dress. (In
her Costume. 1906. pp. 211-24.) 391 A69

Hutchinson, H. N. Marriage Customs in Many
Lands. 1897. 392H97

Cuts of bridal and other wedding costumes.

Miln, Mrs. L. J. Wooings and Weddings. 1900.

392M65

Brittany. See France

Brooklyn

Vanderhilt, G. L. Dress of
Social history of Flatbush.

Flatbush. (In her
1881. pp. 127-48.)
974.72V22

Bulgaria. See Balkan States
Burma. See India

Canada
Campbell, W. W. Canada. 1907. 917.1C19

Colored plates.

Hind, H. V. Explorations in the Interior of Lab-
rador. 2 V. 1863. 917.19H66

Chromo-lithographs and wood-cuts of traprcns and
Indians.

— Narrative of the Canadian Red River Exploring
Expedition of 1857 and of the Assiniboine and
Saskatchewan Exploring Expedition of 1858.
2 V. 1860. 917.1H66

Chromo-lithographs and wood-cuts of Canadian Indians
and their costume, (v. 2).

Caricatures and Caricaturists

Under this heading will bs found such works as arc related to the
general subject of Costume

Arnoux, C. A. d' {Bertall, pseud). La Comcdie de
Notre Temps. La civilite — les habitudes — les
maeurs — les coutumes — les manieres — et les man-
ies de notre epoque. 2d ed. 2 vols. 1874.

Ref. 741A76

Pencil and pen studies by Bertall.

Boyd, A. S. Glasgow Men and Women, Their
Children, and Some Strangers within their Gates.
1905. Ref. 741B78

A selection from the sketches of Twym.

Brinton, S. The Eighteenth Century in English
Caricature. 1904. 741B85

16 illustrations bj' Bunbury, Hogarth, Gillray, and
Rowlandson. 2 colored prints.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Forty-nine

Carleton, G. W. Our Artist in Cuba. 1865.

741C28

Leaves from the sketch-book of a traveller during the
winter of 1864-5. 50 drawings on wood.

Our Artist in Peru. 1866.

741C280

Leaves from the sketch-book of a traveller during the
winter of 18lJo-(j. 50 drawings on wood.

Cary, E. L. Honore Daumier. A collection of his

social and political caricatures, together with an

introductory essay on his art. 1907. 741C33

76 full-page illustrations, depicting types in France about
the year 18i0.

Ckesson, W. H. George Cruikshank. n.d.

BC955C

55 illustrations from his drawings, in the order of their
date of publication.

Cruikshank, G. Bachelor's own Book; or, the
Progress of Mr. Lambkin (Gent.) in the pursuit
of pleasure and amusement, and also in search of
health and happiness. 1844. 741C955B

— George Cruikshank's Omnibus. Ed. by Laman
Blanchard, Esq. 1869. 820.8C95

Illustrated with 100 engravings on steel and wood.

— Cruikshank's Water Colors. With an introduc-
tion by Joseph Grego. 1903. 741C955

6S illustrations in color, illustrating Dickens' " Oliver
Twist," Ainsworth's " The Miser's Daughter," Maxwell's
" History of the Irish Rebellion in 1798," and Emmett's
" Insurrection in 1803."

Currier and Ives. Caricatures Pertaining to the
Civil War; reproduced from a private collection
of originals. 1892. Ref. 741C97

Dore, P. G. Two Hundred Sketches, Humorous
and Grotesque. 1867. Ref. 741D69

86 pages, containing caricatures, chiefly of the French
and E[uglish.

Du Maurier, G. Pictures of English Society, from
"Punch." 1884. 827D88P

41 illustrations of English society.

— Social Pictorial Satire : reminiscences and appre-
ciations of English illustrators of the past gen-
eration. 1898. 741D88S

23 illustrations.
Everitt, G. English Caricaturists and Graphic Hu-
morists of the 19th Century: how they illustrated
and interpreted their times. 1893. 741E93

Many wood-cuts.

Furniss, H. Confessions of a Caricaturist. 2 vols.
1902. BF989

Autobiography of Harry Furniss, with many illustrations
from his sketches of English life.

— Harry Furniss at Home. Written and illustrated
by himself. 1904. BF989H

Furniss, H. Pen and Pencil in Parliament. 1897.

741F98

Illustrated by the author.

Gillray, James. Works of James Gillray, the Cari-
caturist, with the Story of his Life and Times.
Edited by Thomas Wright, n.d. Ref. 741G48

Grego, Joseph. Rowlandson, the Caricaturist. A
selection from his works, and a sketch of his life.
2 vols. 1880. Ref. 741G81R

400 illustrations. Wood-cuts. Political and social
caricatures of his period.

Hammerton, J. A. Humorists of the Pencil. 1905.

741H22

80 illustrations by the leading humorous artists of the day.

Jerrold, Blanchard. Life of George Cruikshank, in
two epochs. 2 vols. 1882. BC955J

Numerous illustrations.

Kay, John. A Series of Original Portraits and
Caricature Etchings. With biographical sketches
and illustrative anecdotes. 2 vols. 1877.

Ref. 741K23S

361 portraits, drawn and engraved by John Kay during the
latter part of the 18th century.

Parton, James. Caricature and Other Comic Art
in all Times and Many Lands. 1877. 741P27

203 illustrations in caricature from the time of the
Romans to the present day.

Paston, George. Social Caricature in the Eighteenth
Century. 1905. Ref. 741P29

Over 200 illustrations.

Stephens, F. G. Memoir of George Cruikshank.
1891. BC955S

44 illustrations from his drawings. Frontispiece portrait.

Thackeray, W. M. On the Genius of George Cruik-
shank. Reprinted verbatim from " The West-
minster Review." 1884. BC955T

With upwards of 40 illustrations, including all the original
wood-cuts.

Carthage. See Africa

Central America
Davis, R. H. Three Gringos in Venezuela and
Central America. 1896. 918.7D26

3 plates of costume.

Putnam, G. P. The Southland of North America.
1913. 917.28P99

Illustrations from photographs.

Central Asia
Hedin, S. A. Scientific Results of a Journey in
Central Asia, 1899-1902. 6 vols. 1904-07.

Ref, 508H45

Vol. VI, Part III, has many illustrations of racial types
from western and central Asia.

Page One Hundred Fifty

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Ceylon

Campbell, James. Excursions, Adventures, and
Field-sports in Ceylon. 2 v. 1843. 91.5.4C188

Dress, v. 1, pp 405-07. 8 colored plates of natives, and
7 other plates of costume.

Cave, H. W. The Book of Ceylon. 1908.

915.4C37B

Illustrations from photographs.
— Golden Tips : a description of Ceylon and its
great tea industry. 1900. 915.4C37G

See "Costume" in Index. Several half-tone plates of
costume.

Corner, Caroline. Ceylon. 1908. 915.4C81

See also India

Children

Auker, A., and others. Child-life in Pictures. 1876.

Ref. 7o9A61

Heliotypes of paintings, from Corregio to late 18th
century.

Boughton, G. H. Sketching Rambles in Holland.
1885. 914.92B75

Includes several wood-cuts of Dutch children.

Bryson, Mrs. M. I. Child Life in China. 1900.

8 illustrations of Chinese dress. 915.1B91

Earle, A. M. Child Life in Colonial Days. 1899.

390E12

" Children's dress," pp. 31-62. Half-tone illustrations
from photographs.

Greenaway,Kate. (Various Elustrated Children's

Books.)
Kidd, Dudley. Savage Childhood. 1906. 572K46

32 half-tone plates of Kafir children.

Marston,A.W. Children of Lidia. n.d. 915.4M37

Several wood-cuts of children.

Menpes, Dorothy. World's Children. 1903. 390M54
100 colored plates, by Mortimer Menpes.

Merrifield, Mrs. M. P. Dress as a Fine Art; with
suggestions on children's dress. 1854. 391M56

Miln, Louise. Little Folk of Many Lands. 1899.

910M65

Numerous references in text. About 50 half-tone plates
of children.

Peary, R. E. Northward over the Great Ice. 2 v.
1898. 919.8P362

Includes several illustrations of Eskimo children.

Schwatka, Frederick. Children of the Cold. 1899.

919.8S41C

" How their clothes are made," pp. 171-74. Half-tone
and wood-cut plates of Eskimo children.

Spielman, M. H. Kate Greenaway. 1905. BG798S

53 colored plates and many sketches in black and white;
nearly all of children.

Wright, H. M. Handbook of the Philippines.
1907. ' 919.1W94

Includes several half-tone plates of Filipino children.

Chile

Schmidtmeyer, Peter. Travels into Chile, in the
Years 1820 and 1821. 1824. Ref. 914S45

30 plates (11 colored) of Spanish and Indian costumes of
Chile.

China

Alexander, William. Picturesque Representations
of the Dress and Manners of the Chinese, n.d.

Ref. 391A37

50 colored engravings, with descriptive text.

Breton de la Martiniere, J. B. J. China: its cos-
tume, arts, manufactures, etc. 4 v. in 2. 1824.

Ref. 915.1B84

About 80 colored engravings of costumes of China, Tar-
tary, and Thibet.

Browne, G. W. China. (In his New America and
the Far East. 1907. v. 4-5.) 910B882

13 plates (3 colored) and numerous cuts of costume.

Bryson, Mrs. M. I. Child Life in China. 1900.

915.1B91

Several illustrations of costume.

Carruthers, A. D. M. Unknown Mongolia. 2 v.

915.1C31

China in Miniature. Containing illustrations of
the manners, customs, character, and costumes of
the people of that empire. 1833. 915.1C539

16 colored engravings.

Chitty, J. R. Things Seen in China. 1909.

915.1C543

50 half-tone illustrations.

Doolittle, Justus. Social Life of the Chinese. 2 v.
1865. 915.1D69

150 illustrations, wood-cuts, many showing costume.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
China. (In her Book of Costume. 1847. pp.
457-64.) Ref. 391W75

6 wood-cuts.

Eyries, J. B. B. La Chine: ou Costumes, moeurs,
et usages des Chinois. (In his L'Angleterre.
.d.) Ref. F391E98

Illustrated by colored plates.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Fifty-one

Ferrario, Giulio. Costume Ancien et Moderne des
Chinois. (In his Costume. 1815. Asie. v. 1.
[v. 1.] pp. 37-366.) Ref. 391F37

Over 20 colored copperplates of costumes of China and
Formosa.

Hardy, E. J. John Chinaman at Home. 1905.

915.1H26

7 plates (half-tones) of costume, pp. 91, 130-37.

Hawks, F. L. Narrative of the Expedition of an
American Squadron to the China Seas and Japan,
1852, 1853, and 1854, under Commodore M. C.
Perry, v. 1. 1856. Ref. 915.2U58

Lithographs and wood-cuts of Chinese and Japanese
costume.

Kemp, E.G. The Face of China. 1909. 915.1K32

A few colored plates.

Little, Mrs. Archibald. Round about My Peking
Garden. 2d ed. 1905. 915.1L77R

" Official and rank distinctions," pp. 60-72. Several
half-tones and one colored plate of costume.

McNabb, R. L. Women of the Middle Kingdom.
1903. 915.1M16

" Dress," etc., pp. 25-33. 10 of the 18 half-tones show
costume.

Martin, W. H. P. Awakening of China. 1907.

951M38A

Several plates of costume.

Mason, G. H. Costume of China; illustrated by
sixty engravings [colored], with explanations in
English and French. 1804. Ref. 391M39

Contains colored plates.

915.1B63

Menpes, Mortimer. China. 1909.

Colored illustrations in addition to 64 facsimile reproduc-
tions in black-and-white.

Milne, Mrs. Leslie. The Shans at Home. 1910.

915.9M65

Many photographs.

Norman, Henry. Peoples and Politics of the Far
East. 1895. 915N54

Half-tone cuts of Chinese dress.

— Same. 1904.

Penfiekl, F. C. East of Suez. (Ceylon, India,
China, and Japan.) 1906. 915P39

Several plates of Chinese costume.

Ralph, Julian. Alone in China. 1898. 915.1R16

Several of the illustrations show costume.

Shoberl, Frederic. World in Miniature. China.
2 V. 1827. Ref. 915.1S559C

30 colored engravings, with descriptive text.

Thomson, John. Illustrations of China and its
People. 1873. Ref. 915.1T481

200 photographs, with descriptive letter-press.

See also Japan

Colonial Costume. See United States

CoREA. See Korea

Corsica. See France

Costume (In Poetry)

Fairholt, F. W. Satirical Songs and Poems on Cos-
tume, from the 13th to the 19th Century. (Percy
Society. Early English poetry. 1840-52. v.
27.) * 820.8P43

Cuba

Browne, G. W. Cuba. (In his New America and
the Far East. v. 6. 1907.) 910B882

3 plates and several cuts of costume.

Olivares, Jose de, and others. Cuba. (In Bryan,
W. S. Our Islands and Their People. 1899.
V. 1. pp. 9-256.) Ref. 917.29B91

Half-tone and colored illustrations, showing costume.

Denmark

Belin. Prime du Journal les Modes Parisiennes.
Costumes de Suede, Norv^ge, Danemark, Hol-
lande, et AUemagne. n.d. RF391B43

No text.

Butlin, F. M. Among the Danes. 1909. 914.8B98

Illustrations in color and in monotone.

Colored Costume Plates. A series of 19 fine and
characteristic illustrations of the costumes of
Denmark. .?1810. R391C71

Each plate has a short description in Danish and German.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Denmark. (In her Book of Costume. 1847.
pp. 352-54.) Ref. 391W75

2 wood-cuts.

European Delineator. Containing brief but inter-
esting descriptions of Russia, Sweden, Denmark,
Norway, etc. 1815. R914E89D

Koppen, F. von. Denmark. (In his Armies of
Europe. 1890. pp. 59-60.) 355K77

Colored plate (8 figures) and 2 text illustrations of uni-
forms.

Meyrick, S. R. Costume of the Original Inhabitants
of the British Islands. 1821. Ref. 391M61

Includes colored plate of 2 ancient Danish costumes.

Page One Hundred Fifty-two

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Dutch Costume. See Netherlands

Egypt

Clark, E. L. Daleth; or, The Homestead of the
Nations. 1864. 916.2C59

Reproductions (some colored) of ancient Egyptian art,
showing costume.

Curtis, W. E. Egypt. (In his Egypt, Burma, and
British Malaysia. 1905. pp. 11-222.) 910C98

8 half-tone plates of modern Arab, Bedouin, and Egyptian
costume.

Davis, R. H. Cairo [and] the Englishmen in Egypt.
(In his Rulers of the Mediterranean. 1894.
pp. 102-77.) 910D26R

Notes on costume and 10 plates and cuts of modern
Egyptian dress and uniforms.

Ferrario, Giulio, and others. Egypte Ancienne et
Moderne. (In his Costume. 1815-29. Afrique.
V. 1. pp. 26-247.) Ref. F391F37

Colored copperplates of ancient and modern Egyptian
costumes.

Hope, Thomas. Costume of the Egyptians. (In
his Costume of the Ancients. 1841. v. 1.
pp. 1-9. pi. 1-11.) Ref. 391H79

Outline illustrations of male and female costume.

Kelly, R. T. Egypt. 1902. 916.2K29

7 plates of costume.

Lane, E. W. Account of the Manners and Customs
of the Modern Egyptians. From the 3d ed.
3 V. in 1. 1846. 916.2L26Ac

Personal characteristics and dress, pp. 49-80. Female
ornaments, pp. 211-28. Many wood-cuts.

Same. 5th ed. 2

1871.

916.2L26A2

Personal characteristics, v. 1, pp. 31-64. Female orna-
ments, V. 2, pp. 312-24. Same cuts as earlier edition.

Maspero, G. Life in Ancient Egypt and Assyria.
1892. 913M41

Outline cuts from Egyptian monuments.

Mayer, Luigi. Views in Egypt. 1801.

R916.2M46

48 colored plates.

Pdrie, W. M. F. Arts and Crafts of Ancient Egypt.
1909. 709P49

Photographs of jewellery, personages, etc.

Salmon, P. R. The Wonderland of Egypt. 1915.

916.2S17

Thackeray, Lance. The People of Egypt. 1910.

916.2T36

32 colored plates; also 37 illustrations in black-and-white.

Wilkinson, Sir J. G. Egyptians in the Time of the
Pharaohs. Crystal Palace Egyptian collections.
1857. 932W68E

" Dress," pp. 32-43. 2 colored plates of textiles and mar.y
wood-cuts of costume.

— Manners and Customs of the Ancient Egyptians.
Rev. ed. 3 v. 1878. 932\V68

See " Dress " in index, v. 3. — Plates (2 colored) and wood-
cuts of costumes.

— Popular Account of the Ancient Egyptians. 2 v.
1854. 932W68P

See " Dress " in index, v. 2. Many wood-cuts.

England

Andrews, Alexander. Eighteenth Century; or, Illus-
trations of the manners and customs of our
grandfathers. 1856. 914.2A56

" Costume," pp. 20-40.

Ashhee, C. R. The Masque of the Edwards of
England; being a coronation pageant to celebrate
the crowning of the King. 1902. Ref. 822A81

Large folio illustrated, printed in colors.

Ashdown, Mrs. C. H. British Costume during
Nineteen Centuries (civil and ecclesiastical).
1910. 391A82

450 engravings, 110 plates, and 9 colored reproductions.

Ashton, John. Dawn of the 19th Century in Eng-
land. 2 V. 1886. 942A82D2

Men's dress, v. 2, chap. 30-31. Ladies' dress, v. 2, chap.
31. Numerous caricatures from contemporary engravings.

— Social England under the Regency. 2 v. 1890.

914.2A82S2

Numerous outline cuts and 7 plates of costume, 1811-20.

— Same. 1899.

— Social Life in the Reign of Queen Anne. 1897.

390A82

Wood-cuts of costumes.

Barfield, T. C. Longmans' Historical Illustrations
—England in the Middle Ages. 1909-10.

R723B24

72 plates, with explanatory text, showing examples of
architecture and costume from the 11th to the loth century.

Barnard, F. P. Costume, Military and Civil. (In
his Companion to English History. Middle Ages.
1902. pp. 90-115.) Ref. 942B25

Wood-cuts. Bibliography.

Benham, William. Tower of London.

1906.

942B46

3 half-tone and 3 colored plates of costume before 16th
century.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Fifty-three

Besant, Sir Walter. London in the 18th Century.
1903. * 942.1B55

" Dress," chap. 4, pp. 250-62. Half-tones, from con-
temporary, sources, of costumes.

— London in the Time of the Stuarts. 1903.

* 942.1B55L

" Dress and manners," " weddings and funerals," pp.
298-310; " sports and amusements," pp. 328-337. Half-
tones from contemporary sources.

— London in the Time of the Tudors. 1904.

* 942.lBo5Lo

" Dress, Weddings," pp. 303-15; " soldiers," pp. 316-22;
" prentice," p. 329. Numerous half-tones, mostly from
contemporary sources.

— Mediaeval Ixjndon. 2 v. 1906. * 942.1B55M

Half-tones from contemporary sources.

Boullon, W. B. Amusements of Old London. 2 v.
1901. 790B76

Includes colored plates showing costumes.

Brinton, S. Eighteenth Century in EngHsh Cari-
cature. 1904. 741B85

2 color-prints, 13 half-tones, of illustrations by Bunbury,
Hogarth, Rowlandson, Gillray.

Burges, William. Architectural Drawings. 1870.

R744B95

Plates 70-74 exhibit male, female, military, and ecclesi-
astical costumes, from Anglo-Saxon times to the late loth
century.

Calthorp, D. C. English Costume Painted and
Described. 4 v. 1906. 391C16

V. 1, Early English; v. 2, Middle Ages; v. 3, Tudor and
Stuart; v. 4, Georgian. Civil costume only. 72 colored
plates and numerous wood-cuts.

Carter, John. Specimens of the Ancient Sculpture
and Painting in this Kingdom, from the Earliest
Period to Henry VIII. 2 v. 1786.

Ref. 709C32

Many of the 120 engraved plates show costume.

— Same. Reprinted. 1887.

Clark, J. C. The Characters of Charles Dickens,
Portrayed in a series of Original Water Color
Sketches. .?1898. ' * 823Co9

21 plates.

Clinch, G. English Costume from Prehistoric Times
to the End of the 18th Century, n.d. 391C64

Cook, C. C. Costumes of the Time of the French
Revolution, 1790-1793; together with English
costumes, 1795-1806. Drawn from the collection
of Victorien Sardou. 1889. 391G95

65 etchings, executed by Guillaumot fils, colored by hand.
40 of French, 25 of English costume.

Costumes of the University of Cambridge, n.d.

R378C84

24 colored illustrations, on one plate, showing the costumes
worn in the dififerent colleges of the University.

Couts, Joseph. Practical Guide for the Tailor's
Cutting-room. 1848. 687C87

The Cries of London, as they are Daily Exhibited in
the Streets. 1804. Ref. 821C92

Embellished with 48 elegant characteristic engravings,
colored.

Dallaway, James. Inquiries into the Origin and
Progress of the Science of Heraldry in England.
1793. Ref. 929.6D11

12 plates (5 colored) and 1 text illustration of early English
costume.

Davenport, Cyril. English Regalia. 1897. 391D247

Colored plates.

Davey, Richard. Pageant of London. 2 v. 1906.

942.1D248

See " Dress " in index.

Davies, R. English Society of the Eighteenth
Century in Contemporary Art. 1907. 759D25

4 illustrations in color and 33 in monochrome.

Dawson, Thomas. Memoirs of St. George and the
Order of the Garter. 1714. Ref. 929.7D27

Engraving of George I, and extra illustration of the
regalia.

Day, T. A. Illustrations of Mediaeval Costume in
England. 1853. R391D27

Colored plates.

Doran, J. London in Jacobite Times. 2 v. n.d.

942.1D69

Plates of dress of the period.

Druitt, H. Manual of Costume, as Illustrated by
Monumental Brasses. 1906. 391 D79

110 half-tone illustrations of English armor and dress
of 14th and 15th centuries.

Dryden, Alice. The Art of Hunting; or. Three
Hunting MSS. 799D799

Co.stume, pp. 89-101, covers period from 13th to 17th
centuries. A few wood-cuts.

Dugdale, Sir William. Antiquities of Warwickshire.
1656. Ref. 913D86

Some of the illustrations show dress.

Du Maurier, George. English Society. 1897.

Ref. 741D88E

89 plates, with an introduction by W. D. Howells.

— English Society at Home. 1880. Ref. 741D88

63 of Du Maurier's contributions to Punch, engraved by
Joseph Swain, and printed on India paper.

Eccleston, James. Introduction to English Antiqui-
ties. 1847. 913E17

See " Costume " and " Armor " in index. Outline cuts
of English costume to about 1660.

Page One Hundred Fifty -four

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Egan, Pierce. Tom & Jerry: Life in London; or.
The day and night scenes of Jerry Hawthorn and
Corinthian Tom. [Reprint, n.d.] 8^27E28T

Colored plates, by I. R. and G. Cruikshank, of early 19th
century costumes.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
England. (In her Book of Costume. 1844.
pp. 39-175.) Ref. 391W75

Numerous wood-cuts.

Eyriks, J. B. B. L'Angleterre, ou Costumes,
Moeurs, et Usages des Anglais, n.d.

Ref. F391E98

Illustrated by colored plates.

Fairholt, F. W. Costume in England; a history of
dress, from the earliest period till the close of the
18th century. 1846. 391F17C

About 600 wood-cuts.

— Same. 3d ed., enl. 2 v. 1885. (Bohn's artists'
library.) 391F17

V. 1. History; v. 2, Glossary. About 700 wood-cuts.
Bibliography by H. A. Dillon.

— SaTTie. 4th ed. 2

1896.

Gardner, J. S. Armor in England, to the 17th Cen-
tury. 1898. 399G22

16 colored plates and more than 80 other illustrations.

Gihh, William. The Royal House of Stuart, Illus-
trated from Relics of the Stuarts. 1890.

Ref. 920G43

40 colored plates, many showing wearing apparel.

Godfrey, Elizabeth. Home Life under the Stuarts.
1603-1649. 1903. 390G58

" Dress and fashion," chap. 17. Illustrations showing
dress.

— Social Life under the Stuarts. 1904. 390G58S

18 plates, engravings and half-tones.

Gronoio, R. H. Reminiscences and Recollections of
Capt. Gronow, 1810-60. 2 v. 1889.

* 920G876R

2.5 etched and aquatint illustrations, with hand-colored
duplicates.

Guillaumot, A. E. Costumes of the Time of the
French Revolution, 1790-1793. Together with
Engli.sh costumes during the years 1795-1806.
1889. R391G95

Plates, colored by hand.

Haines, Herbert. Manual of Monumental Brasses.
2 V. 1861. 739H15

200 wood-cuts of costumes, 14th-17th century.

Hall, Hubert. Society in the Elizabethan Age.
1886. 942H17SO

From contemporary documents. Wood-cuts of Henry
VIII and Queen Elizabeth.

Hardie, Martin. John Pettie, R.A„ F.R.S.A
1908. BP511H

50 illustrations in color, many of use for Scottish and
English costume.

Harris, M. D. Life in an Old English Town. 1898.

942.4H31

2 plates of dress.

Haweis, M. E. Chaucer for Children. 1900.

J821C496H

Wood-cuts of early English costumes.
Hill, Georgiana. History of English Dress, from
the Saxon Period to the Present Day. 2 v.
1893. 391H64

13 engravings, with descriptive notes.

Hodgetts, J. F. The English in the Middle Ages,
from the Norman Usurpation to the Days of the
Stuarts. 1885. 914.2H68

Armor, pp. 111-43; civil dress, pp. 147-75.

Holbein, Hans, the Younger. Portraits of Illustrious
Personages of the Court of Henry VIII. 1828.

Ref. 769H72

Contemporary costume.

Holt, E. S. Ye Olden Time; English customs in
the Middle Ages. 1884. 914.2H75

Clothing, pp. 72-98. Frontispiece, costumes of Henry IV.

Hughes, Talbot. Dress Design. 1913. 646H89

Illustrated from old examples. Includes 35 pages of
collotypes.

— Old English Costumes, 18th-19th Centuries.
.?1913. 391H89

Colored plates.

Jerrold, Douglas, and others. Heads of the People;
or. Portraits of the English. Drawn by Kenny
Meadows. 2 v. 1st pub. 1838-40. 827J563H

Characteristic pictorial sketches from every grade of life.

Jewitt, Llewellynn. Half -hours among Some English
Antiquities. 1877. 913J59

Among arms and armor, pp. 102-13; among personal
ornaments, pp. 203-33. Outline illustrations.

— Same. Rev. and enl. ed. 1880.

Jusserand, J. J. English Wayfaring lafe in the
Middle Ages. 2d ed. 1889. 914.2J96

Many cuts, from contemporary sources, of 14th century
costumes.

Knight, Charles. London. 6 v. 1841. 942.1K69

See analytic contents to each vol. Many wood-cuts of
costumes of all periods.

— Same. 6 v. in 3. 1851. 942.1K69L3

1851.
2 V. 1845.

R913.42K69

— Old England.

Colored plates.

— Popular History of England. 8 v. Lond. 1858.

See " Costume " in indexes of v. 4 and 8. Numerous
wood-cuts.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Fifty-five

Lamed, J.N. History of England. 1900. 942L32

Several cuts of typical costumes.

Legg, L. G. W. English Coronation Records. 1901.

Ref. 3941.51

17 illustrations (1 colored) of early coronation scenes, from
contemporary sources.

Lennox, Lord W. P. Fashion Then and Now. 2 v.
1878. 3901.56

Many scattered notes on 18th and 19th century dress.

Levati, Ambrogio. Costume des Habitans des lies
Britanniques. (In Ferrario, G. Costume. 1827.
Europe, v. 6 [v. 17].) Ref. 391F37

20 of the 31 colcn-ed copperplates show costume from pre-
Roman period to 19th century.

Loftie, W. J. Kensington; picturesque and histori-
cal. 1888. 942.1L82K

6 of the colored plates show 18th century costume.

London Society of Antiquaries. Vetusta Monu-
menta. 6 v. 1747-1842. Ref. 913L84

Nearly 100 of the 320 copperplates (including 28 colored)
include costume to time of Elizabeth. Elizabeth's funeral
procession (v. 3) and the Bayeux tapestry (v. 6, colored)
are given entire.

MacJclin, H. W. Brasses of England. 1907.

739M15B

Numerous cuts of costume and armor, 1277-1C23. Eccle-
siastical dress.

— Monumental Brasses. 1905.

739M15

Armor, dress, and ecclesiastical vestments, 13th-17th
centuries. Wood-cuts.

Maclise, Daniel.
quest. 1866,

The Story of the Norman Con-
Ref. 741M16

42 illustrations engraved on wood under Professor Griiner,
from drawings by Maclise. " Coronation of Harold," and
other scenes, showing Saxon and Norman costume.

Malcolm, J. P. Anecdotes of the Manners and Cus-
toms of London during the 18th Century. 2 v.
1810. * 914.21M24

" Anecdotes of dress and the caprices of fashion," v. 2,
pp. 312-57. 12 engravings of dress, 1G90-1807.

— Anecdotes of the Manners and Customs of
London from the Roman Invasion to the Year
1700. 3 V. 1811. * 914.21M24A

" Dress," v. 2, pp. 279-341. 12 hand-colored engravings
of dress, 1053-1675.

Martin, Charles. Civil Costume of England from
the Conquest to the Present Time. 1842.

391M37

Series of colored etchings.

Meyrich, S. R. Costume of the Original Inhabitants
of the British Islands and Adjacent Coasts of the
Baltic. Imp. ed. 1821. Ref. 391M61

24 colored aquatints, including Britons, Druids, Ancient
Irish, Danes, and Goths.

Montgomery, D. H. Leading Facts of English
History. 1903. 942M78L

See " Dress " in Index.

Nayler, Sir George. Coronation of His Most Sacred
Majesty, George the Fourth. 1839. Ref.

42 colored plates.

Nevill, Ralph. Old Sporting Prints. 1908. (Con-
noisseur, Extra Number.) 760N52O

52 plates, 36 in color, showing English costume at the end
of the 18th and the beginning of the 19th centuries.

New Bon Ton Magazine; or. Telescope of the times.
V. 1-6. May, 1818— Apr., 1821. 052N53

Colored caricatures of costume of period.

Nicolas, Sir N. H. History of the Orders of Knight-
hood of the British Empire. 4 v. 1842.

Ref. 929.7N63H

Colored plates of regalia, 5 portraits in full regalia.

Oxford University. Oxford Historical Pageant.
1907. 8220988

35 half-tone illustrations, mostly contemporary.

Parrott, Edward. The Pageant of English Litera-
ture. 1914. 820P26

Shows costumes, in color, of English writers, etc.

Paston, George. (E. M. Symonds.) Social Carica-
ture in the 18th Century. 1905. Ref. 741P29

Colored frontispiece and over 200 half-tone caricatures of
18th century costume.

Paul, H. Queen Anne. 1906. Ref. 942P32Q

Numerous portraits in Queen Anne costume.

Perkins, Mrs. L. F. Robin Hood: his deeds and
adventures. 1906. 821.04P44

IlaS colored plates, etc., showing old English costume.

Pictures of Society; Grave and Gay. From the pencils
of celebrated artists and the pens of popular
authors. 1866. 820.8P61

95 plates, lithographs, a re-issue of the best engravings
from '■ London Society."

Picturesque Representations of the Dress and Manners
of the English, illus. in 50 colored engravings, with
descriptions. 1814. R391P61E

Planche, J. R. History of British Costume, from
the Earliest Period to the Close of the 18th Cen-
tury. 1834. 391P69

Numerous illustrations.

— Same. 3d ed. Reprinted 1907.
Price, J. M. Dame Fashion: Paris-London (1786-
1912). 1913. * 391P94

Pyne, W. H. The Costume of Great Britain. 1808.

R391P99

60 colored plates, with explanatory text, of various types
of people.

Page One Hundred Fifty-six

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Repository of Arts, Literature, Fashions, etc. By R.
Ackermann. Ser. 1, v. 3-6, 9-14; Ser. 2, v. 1-14;
Ser. 3, V. 1-12. Jan., 1810— Dec, 1828. 052R42

Letters on London and Paris fashions. Colored steel
plates of women's dress.

Russell, W. 11. Memorial of the Marriage of H. R.
H. Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, and H. R. H.
Alexandra, Princess of Denmark. 1864.

Ref. 394R96

Includes several chromo-lithographs of court costumes.

Schild, Marie. Old English Costumes: an epitome
of ladies' costumes, from the 1st to the 19th cen-
tury, n.d. 391S330

40 steel plates and 4 colored engravings, many of histori-
cal characters.

— Old EngHsh Peasant Costumes. 1898. 391S33

Shoberl, F. World in Miniature. England, Scot-
land, and Ireland. Edited by W. H. Pyne. 4 v.
1827. Ref. 914.2S559

84 colored engravings.

Smith, Albert. Gavarni in London. Sketches of
London life and character. 1849. 914.21S642G

Colored illustrations.

— Same. 1859. 914.21S642

22 wood-cuts.

Stephenson, H. T. The Elizabethan People. 1910.

914.2S83

Stone, Mrs. E. Chronicles of Fashion, from the
Time of Elizabeth to the Early Part of the 19th
Century. 2 v. 1845. 914.2M55

"Costumes," v. 1, pp. S94-434; v. 2, pp. 363-455. 15
steel engravings.

Strutt, Joseph. Complete View of the Dress and
Habits of the People of England, from the Estab-
lishment of the Saxons to the Present Time.
2 V. 1842. Ref. 391S92

Illustrated by engravings and colored plates.

— Regal and Ecclesiastical Antiquities of England.
1843. Ref. 913.42S927

72 copperplate portraits, from Edward the Confessor to
Henry VIII.

— Sports and Pastimes of the People of England.
New ed., by Wm. Hone. 1850. 790S92

140 wood-cuts, representing popular diversions.

Suffling, E. R. English Church Brasses, from the
13th to the 17th Century. 1910. 739S94

237 illustrations, reproduced from rubbings. Contains
chapters on " Costume of Ladies," " Civilian Costume of
Gentlemen," and " Ecclesiastical Vestments."

Sydney, W. C. England and the English in the
18th Century. 2 v. 1891. 942S98E

" Dress and Costume," v. 1, pp. 89-130.

Synge, M. B. Short History of Social Life in Eng-
land. 1906. 942S99

See " Dress " in Index. Brief references.

Thornely, J. L. The Monumental Brasses of Lan-
cashire and Cheshire. 1893. 739T51

Engravings from drawings.

Traill, H. D. Social England. 6 v. 1894-97.

942T76S

See " Costume " and " Dress " in Index of each vol.

Same. Illustrated ed. 1901-04.

Many colored illustrations.

942T76

Trowbridge, W. R. H. Court Beauties of Old White-
hall; historiettes of the Restoration. 1906.

920H8632

32 Restoration portraits.

Tuer, A. W. Follies and Fashions of our Grand-
fathers, 1807. 1886-7. Ref. 914.2T91

Digest of magazine material of 1807. 37 hand-colored
plates.

Walker, G. Costume of Yorkshire in 1814. 1885.

Ref. 391W179

A series of 41 facsimiles of original drawings.

Wingfield, Leivis. Notes on Civil Costume in
England, from the Conquest to the Regency, as
Exemplified in the International Health Exhibi-
tion of 1884. 1884. Ref. 394W77

24 colored illustrations, lithographs, of the period 1066-
1820.

Woodward, G. M. Eccentric Excursions; or,
Literary and pictorial sketches in England and
South Wales. 1796. Ref. 827W89

About 100 colored caricatures of contemporary dress.

Wright, Thomas. The Celt, the Roman, and the
Saxon. 1852. 913W95C

Dress of Romans in Britain, pp. 326-33. 3 cuts of
ornaments.

— Homes of Other Days. 1871.

914.2W953

Many small wood-cuts, from contemporary sources, of
costume from Anglo-Saxon times to 16th century.

England, Military Costume

Archibald, J. F. J. Blue Shirt and Khaki. 1901.

355A67

Many half-tones of English and American soldiers.

Besant, Sir Walter. Soldiers. (In his London in

the Time of the Tudors. 1904. pp. 316-22.)

Ref. 942.1B55LO

Several illustrations.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Fifty-seven

The British Army. By a lieutenant-colonel in the
British Army. With an introduction by Major-
General F. Maurice. 1900. 355B86

colors) and 30 illustrations in

R355C84

27 full-page plates (13
text.

Costumes of the British Army. 1885.

Colored plates. No text.

Ellis, A. B. History of the 1st West India Regi-
ment. 1885. 355E47

2 colored plates of Negro uniforms.

Groves, J. P. History of the 42d Royal Highlanders,
" The Black Watch." 1729-1893. 1893.

Ref. 355G88H

Pp. 1-3, 14. 4 colored plates of uniforms, 1729-1893.

Koppen, F. von. Army of the British Empire. (In
his Armies of Europe, illustrated. 1890. pp.
1-19.) 355K77

Descriptions in text. 3 double colored plates (23 illus-
trations, including 2 naval) and G text illustrations of
uniforms of the period.

Luard, John. History of the Dress of the British
Soldier, from the Earliest Period to the Present
Time. 1852. 355L92

50 outline plates.

Milne, James. Gordon Highlanders. 1898.

355M65

Includes half-tone plates, showing Highland uniforms of
different periods.

Perry, 0. L. Rank and Badges in Her Majesty's
Army and Navy. 2d ed. 1888. 355P46

Badges and uniforms of military and naval organizations.

Robinson, C. N. Navy and Army Illustrated.
1895-96. 2 V. 355N32

Illustrations of British uniforms, including native troops.

— Some Notes on the Costume of the Sailors of the
Past. (In Swinburne, H. L. Royal Navy.
1907. p. 338.) 359S97

10 colored plates of seamen's dress, from 600 a.d. to

Scott, Sir J. S. D. British Army.

V. 1868.

R355S42

" Body armor," v. 1, pp. 192-222; " clothing of troops,"
V. 2, pp. 431-45. Many plates with descriptive notes.

Smith, J. H. Historic Booke, to Keep in Remem-
brance the Meeting of the Honorable Artillery
Company of London and the Ancient and Honor-
able Artillery Company of the Massachusetts.
1903. Ref. 358S65

Colored plates of Royal Artillery uniforms, 1660-1900,
and numerous plates and text illustrations of 17th-19th
century costume.

Thornely, J. L. Monumental Bras,ses of Lanca-
shire and Cheshire. 1893. 739T51

Outline illustrations, from rubbings, of costumes of 145S-
1650.

Uniforms of the Armies of the Six Great Powers of
Europe. (In Standard dictionary. Sup. 1903.
p. 2187.) Ref. 423F98Su

Section of colored plate, showing 18 English uniforms.

Wolseley, Viscount Garnet. Standing Army of Great
Britain. (In Armies of To-day. 1893. pp.
57-96.) 355M57

8 cuts of British uniforms.

Zogbaum, R. F. Great Britain; a Home of Tommy
Atkins. (In his Horse, Foot, and Dragoons.
1888. pp. 49-74.) 355Z85

10 wood-cuts, plates, and text illustrations of uniforms.

England. See also Caricatures and Caricaturists

Eskimo Costume

Carstensen, A. R. Two Summers in Greenland.
1890. 919.8C32

Photogravures and cuts of Eskimo dress.

Gilder, W. H. Schwa tka's Search: sledging in the
Arctic in quest of the Franklin records. 1881.

919.8G40

" Arctic costumes," pp. 136-46. 4 or 5 plates of costume.

Hanbury, D. T. Sport and Travel in the Northland
of Canada. 1904. 917.1H23

a few colored plates.

Hutton, S. K. Among the Eskimos of Labrador.
1912. 917.19H98

Illustrations from photographs.

Mikkelsen, E. Conquering the Arctic Ice. 1909.

919.8M63

Nansen, F. First Crossing of Greenland. 2 v.

1890. 919.8Nl8Fi2

Many wood-cuts. Consult Index.

Nordenskiold, A. E. Voyage of the
Asia and Europe. 1882.

Consult Index. Wood-cuts.

Peary, R. E. Northward over the "
2 V. 1898.

Many half-tone cuts of Eskimos.

Schivatka, Frederick. Children of the Cold. 1899.

919.98S41C

Half-tone and wood-cut plates of costume.

Stefansson, V. My Life with the Eskimo. 1913.

918.8S81

Illustrations from photographs.

Vega round
919.8N83V

Great Ice."
919.8P362

Page One Hundred Fifty-eight

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Etruscan Costume

Desvergers, M. J. A. N. L'Etrurie et les Etrusques.
3 V. 1862-64. Ref. F913D47

Two-color plates of objets-d'art, showing costumes.

Magnetti, Carlo. Costume des Etrusques. (In
Ferrario, G. Costume. 1820. Europe, v. 2.
pp. 7-219.) Ref. 391F37

Many of the 42 colored copperplates show dress.

See also Rome

Fancy Dress

Aria, Mrs. E. Of Fancy Dress. (In her Costume,
fanciful, historical, and theatrical. 1906. pp.
178-189.) 391A69

1 colored plate and 4 other illustrations of costume.

Butterick Pub. Co. Masquerade and Carnival.
1892. R391B98

Compte-Calix, F. C. Fourteen Colored Lithographs
of Fancy Dress for Ladies. .?1844. R391C73

One design for a man's costume is given.

— Travestissements ^l^gants. .'1864. *391C73T

15 colored plates.

Fancy Dress: a short chronological series of cos-
tumes, n.d. 391F19

Five Water Color Draioings of Fancy Dress for
Ladies (crinoline pattern) about 1850. R391F56

The drawings are heightened with gold and silver,
and stamped " Mme. E. D6vy."

Holt, Ardern. Fancy Dresses Described; or.
What to wear at fancy balls. 3d ed., enl. 1882.

391H75FD

Outline illustrations, restricted to the costume of ladies
and children. 16 models in color, as well as a new series of
smaller illustrations.

— -Same. 5th ed. 1887. R39lH75Fa

— Same. 6th ed. n.d.

— Gentleman's Fancy Dress; how to choose it.
4th ed. n.d. 391H75

Outline cuts.

— Same. 6th ed. n.d.

Lumm, E. G. Twentieth Century Speaker. 1898.

808.5L95

Several colored and half-tone plates of costumes for
tableaux, etc.

Morin, A. E. Twenty -one Colored Lithographs of
Fancy Dress for Ladies. .?1850. R391M85

The " Sketch." London, Jan. 2, 1907.

Pp. 6-7. Carmen — Pompadour flower girl — Directoire —
Soubretteof the Second Empire — Astartc — Mireille — Delilah
— Louis XVI period — M^lisande — Empire court dress.

Spielman, M. 11. Kate Greenaway. 1905.

Ref. BG798S

5.3 colored plates and many cuts of Kate Greenaway
costumes.

Weldon. Weldon's Practical Fancy Dress for Chil-
dren. 1887. 391W34

49 illustrations with descriptive text.

Fans

Flory, M. A. Book about Fans: the history of
fans and fan-painting. 1895. 391F64

29 wood-cuts and half-tones.

Grolier Club {New York). The Fan in All Ages:
a brief history of its evolution. 1891.

Ref. 391G87

19 wood-cuts.

Mowrey, Gabriel. Modern Design in Jewellery and
Fans. 1902. 745M93

Rhead, G. W. History of the Fan. 1910.

R391R46H

— Modern Practical Design. 1912. 740R46M

Includes a chapter on " Fans and Lace."

Salwey,C.M. Fans of Japan. 1894. Ref. 391S18

10 colored plates and 39 illustrations in black-and-white.

Uzanne,L.O. The Fan. 1884. Ref. 391U99F

Waern, Cecilia. Short Historical Sketch of Fans.
1895. 391W12

8 half-tones of fans. Brief bibliography.

Fiji Islands
BuHon, J. W. Fiji of To-day. 1910. 919.6B97

Many photographs.

Flemish Costume. See Belgium

Foot-wear

Becker, W. A. Shoes. (In his Charikles. 1845.
pp. 326-31.) 913B39CH

4 cuts of shoes of Homeric times.

— Same. 5th ed. 1880. (pp. 442-52.)

Hall, J. S. Book of the Feet: a history of boots and
shoes. 3ded. 1847. 391H17

4 colored plates (42 figures), and many wood-cuts of foot-
wear.

Lacroix, Paul, and others. Histoire des Cordon-
niers. Pr^cedee de I'histoire de la chaussure.
1852. Ref.

Many cuts of boots and shoes of all periods and countrVs,

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Fifty-nine

Menard, Rene. Le Chaussure. (In his La vie
Priv6e des Anciens. 1881. v. 2. p. 322-30.)

F913M53

22 outline illustrations of boots and shoes.

Redfern, W. B. Royal and Historic Gloves and
Shoes. Illustrated and Described. 1904.

Ref. 391R31

32 plates (1 colored) of boots and shoes of various nations
and times.

Rhead, G. W. Boots, Shoes, and Other Coverings
for the Feet. (In his Chats on Costume. 1906.
pp. 279-301.) 391 B46

Historical and descrir-t've. Wood-cuts and half-tone

illustrations.

France

Allinson, Alfred. The Days of the Directoire.
1909. 944 A43

Chapter XI. Costume from 1795-99.

Arnault, A. V. Vie Politique et Militaire de
Napoleon. 2 v. 1822-26. Ref. FBN216Ar

Lithographed plates, after original designs of the first
painters of the French school.

Bourgeois, Emile. France under Louis XIV. Tr.
by Mrs. Cashel Hoey. 1897. Ref. 944B77

Many of the copperplates show costume.

Boutet, H. Les Modes Feminines du Dix-neuvieme
Siecle. 1902. RF391B77

100 colored plates. No text.
Boutet de Monvel, Roger. Beau Brummell and His
Times. With a chapter on dress and the dandies,
by Mary Craven. 1908. BB893Bo

Bridgens, Richard. Sketches Illustrative of the
Manners and Customs of France, Switzerland, and
Italy. 1821. R391B851

Colored plates, with descriptive text.
Bruyn, A. de. Costumes Civils et Militaires du
XVr Siecle. 1872. Ref. F391B91

33 photolithographic plates.

Challamel, J. B. M. A. History of Fa.shion in
France; or. The dress of women, from the Gallo-
Roman period to the present time. Tr. by
Mrs. Cashel Hoey and John Lillie. 1882.

Ref. 391C43

20 colored plates (80 figures).

Chase, Mrs. Lewis. Vagabond Voyage through
Brittany. 1915. 914.4C48

Clouet, Janet. 300 French Portraits of the Courts
of Francis I, Henry II, and Francis II. 2 v.
1875. Ref. 741C64

Auto-lithographed from the originals at Castle Howard.

Cook, C. C. Costumes of the Time of the French
Revolution, 1790-1793; together with English
costumes, 1795-1806. Drawn from the collec-
tion of Victorien Sardou. 1889. Ref. 391G95

6.5 etchings, executed by Guillaumot fils, colored by hand.
40 of French, 25 of English costume.

D'Este, Margaret. Through Corsica with a Camera.
1905. 914.59D47

17 of the half-tones show costumes.

Drumont, Edouard. Les Fetes Nationales a Paris.
1889. RF944D79

French costumes fiom 1389, illustrated in plates. Text
illustrations of national ffites.

Duplessis, G. Costumes Historique''. des XVI^,
XVir et XVIir Siecles. 2 v. 1867.

Ref. F391D93

Full-page colored illustrations.

Edwards, G. W. Brittany and the Bretons. 1910.

914.4E263

Colored plates.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
France. (In her Book of Costume. 1847.
pp. 192-270.) Ref. 391W75

Numerous cuts of head-dress and costume.

Garcia, G. Les Modes du Directoire et du Consulat.
n.d. RF391G21

Gostling, F. M. The Bretons at Home. 1909.

914.4G68

Colored plates and photographs.

Gronoiv, G. W. Reminiscences and Recollections of
Capt. Gronow, 1810-60. 2 v. 1889.

* 920G876R

References to and illustrations of French and English
dress of period. Hand-colored, etched, and aquatint plates.

Guillaumot, A. E. Costumes du XVIII'' Siecle,
d'apres les Dessins de Watteau fils, Desrais,
Leclerc, Cochin, etc. Ref. F391G95

60 etchings.

— Costumes of the Time of the French Revolution,

1790-1793. 1889. R391G95

Plates colored by hand.

Iloyt, Eleanor. (Mrs. Brainerd.) In Vanity Fair; a

tale of frocks and femininity. 1906. 914.4H86

Janin, J. G. and others. Pictures of the French.

1840. * 914.4J33

230 engravings, from Gavarni, Monnier, and Meissonier,

of French costume of 1840.

Koppen, F. von. France. (In his Armies of Europe.
Illustrated. 1890. pp. 46-53.) 355K77

2 double colored plates (13 illustrations, includiT^g 3
naval) and 6 text illustraujua of Frencn uniforms.

Page One Hundred Sixty

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Lacroix, Paul. Dress and Fashions. (In his
Eighteenth Century. 1876. pp. 452-89.)

* 914.4L14

10 colored plates, and many illustrations, of dress of the
period.

Lawrence, H. W. French Line Engravings of the
I^te 18th Century. 1910. R769L42

Pp. 89-102. Le monument de costume.

Lechevallier-Chevignard, G. Costumes Historiqiies
de Femmes du Quatorzieme au Dix-huitieme
Sieele. 1889. RF391L45

Contains colored plates.

Lewis, George. A Series of Groups, Illustrating the
Physiognomy, Manners, and Character of the
People of France and Germany. 1823. 767L67

60 etched plates.

Mennechet, E. Le Plutarque Frangais; Vies des
Hommes et Femmes Illustres de la France. 8 v.
1835-41. RF920M54

Contains colored plates. Index at end of Vol. 8.

Menpes, Dorothy. Brittany. Illustrated by Morti-
mer Menpes. 1905. 914.4M54

About 50 of the 75 colored plates show Breton costume.

Milioun, Francis. Rambles in Brittany. Illus-
trated by Blanche McManus. 1906.

914.4M66RB

" Manners and customs," pp. 70-87. Many of the half-
tone plates and wood-cuts show costume.

Mnsgrave, George. Nooks and Corners of Old
France. 2 v. 1867. 914.4M987N

" Touraine caps," v. 1, pp. 225.

Pauquet Freres. Modes et Costumes Historiques.
?1865. Ref. 391P33

93 colored plates of French costume, 493 a. d. to 1S64.

Piton, Camille. Le Costume Civil en France du
Treizieme au Dix-neuvieme Sieele. n.d.

F391P68

700 photographic illustrations. A few colored plates.

Planta, Edward. New Pictures of Paris. 5 v.
1827. * 914.4P71

Vol. 1 contains 29 colored illustrations of the costumes of
the lower orders in Paris.

Price, J. M. Dame Fashion. Paris — London,
1786-1912. * 391P94

Includes 155 colored

Quicherat, J. Histoire du Costume en France,
jusqu'^ la fin du XVIIF Sieele. 1875.

Ref. F391Q62

481 wood-cuts of both male and female costume.

Same. [In French.] 1891.

Repository of Arts, Literature, Fashions, etc. By
R. Ackerniann. Ser. 1, v. 3-6, 9-14; Ser. 2,
V. 1-14; Ser. 3, v. 1-12. Jan., 1810— Dec., 1828.

052R42

Monthly letters on Paris '" female fashions." Colored
steel plates.

Robida, A. "Yester-year": ten centuries of toi-
lette. 1891. 391R65

29 colored plates and numerous wood-cuts of French
female costume from the Middle Ages to about 1880.

F391R65

Roger-Miles, L. Le Costume et la Mode. n.d.

R391R72

Relates to the styles of the 8th- 19th centuries.

Sloane, W. M. Life of Napoleon. 4 v. 1896.

RBN216SL
Smith, J. H. Troubadours at Home. 2 v. 1899.

849S65

See " Costume " in Index. A few cuts of costume.

Uzanne, L. 0. Fashion in Paris: feminine taste and
aesthetics, from 1797 to 1897. 1898. Ref. 391U99

100 hand-colored plates and 250 text illustrations of both
male and female dress.

— Frenchwomen of the Century : fashions, manners,
usages. 1897. Ref. 394U99

Contains colored plates.

Viollet-Le-Duc, E. E. Dictionnaire RaLsonne du
Mobilier FranQais de I'Epoque Carlovingienne a
la Renaissance. 6 v. 1858-72. Ref. F703V79

Dress, personal jewels, toilet articles, v. 3 and 4. Many
wood-cuts and a few colored plates.

France, Military Costume

Lewal. French Army. (In Armies of To-day.
1893. pp. 161-215.) 355M57

16 cuts of French and French Colonial uniforms of the
period.

Richard, Jules. L'Armee Fran^aise. 2 v. 1885-
89. RFS55M22

Colored plates and other illustrations.

La Jeune Armee. n.d.

RF355M22J

Uniforms of the Armies of the Six Great Powers of
Europe. (In Standard dictionary. Sup. 1903.
pp. 2187.) Ref. 423F98Su

Section of colored plate, showing 16 modern French
uniforms.

Zoghaum. R. F. France: war pictures in time of

peace. (In his Horse, Foot, and Dragoons.

1888. pp. 1-47.) 355Z85

15 wood-cuts, plates, and text illustrations of modern

French uniforms.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Sixty-one

France. See also Caricatures and Caricaturists

Germany

Avenarius, Tony. Historischer Festzug veranstaltet
bei der Feier der Vollendung des Kolner Domes
am 16. October, 1880. n.d. Ref. 750A95

29 large lithographed plates of German costumes, 1248-
1880.

Bossi, Luigi. Costume Ancien et Moderne des
Germains. (In Ferrario, G. Costume. 1824.
Europe, v. 4. [v. 15.] pp. 173-816.)

Ref. 391F37

Over 40 colored copperplates of ancient and modern Ger-
man costumes of all classes.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Germany. (In her Book of Costume. 1847.
pp. 271-87.) Ref. 391W75

Several wood-cuts of male and female costume.

Grohman, W. A. Baillie. Land in the Mountains:
past and present of Tyrol. 1907. 943.7G87

" Costume of the Landesknechte," pp. 232-35.

Guinot, Eugene. Summer at Baden-Baden. 1876.

914.3G96

6 colored plates of costumes.

Hottenroth, F. Trachten, Haus-, Feld-, und Kriegs-
gerathschaften der Volker alter und neuer Zeit.
2 vols. n.d. G391H83

120 plates and numerous wood-cuts.

Johnson, A. C. Peasant Life in Germany. 1858.

914.3J66

See " Costumes " in Index.

Kohler, K. Die Entwickelung der Tracht in
Deutschland wahrend des Mittelalters und der
Neuzeit. 1877. G391K77

100 plates.

Kretschmer, Albert. Costumes Nationaux Alle-
mands; dessins originaux, avec texte explicatif.
1870. RG391K92

Numerous colored plates.

Laugel, A. Costumes et Coutumes d'Alsace. 1902.

RF914.3L37

Colored plates.

Lewis, George. A Series of Groups, Illustrating
. . . the people of France and Germany. 1823.

767L67

60 etched plates.

Schwind, Moritzvon. Schwind; des Meisters Werke
in 1265 Abbildungen. 1907. G759W41

Many portraits in 19th century German costume, and a
number of cuts of historic German dress.

Germany, Military Costume

Dally, A. Uniforms de I'Armee Allemande en 1886.
Illustrated by M. Roy. n.d. [Cahiers d'en-
seignement. No. 13-16.]

(3 Unbound Pamphlets)

16 colored full-page illustrations, with a few cuts of Ger-
man uniforms of 1886.

Illustrated London News. April 26, 1913.

Contains colored plates.

Exner. German Army of To-day. (In Armies of
To-day. 1893. pp. 97-160.) 355M57

" Equipment and clothing," pp. 147-49. 14 cuts of
modern uniform.

Guinot, Eugene. Summer at Baden-Baden. 1876.

914.3G96

3 colored plates of uniforms of Baden.

Koppen, F. von. German Army. (In his Armies
of Europe, Illustrated. 1890. pp. 20-35.)

355K77

3 double-page colored plates (20 illustrations, including
3 naval) and 8 text illustrations of uniforms.

Landesknechte. (In Meyer's Konversations-Lexicon.
6th ed. 1905. v. 12. p. 126.) Ref. G033M6lKo

Brief historical article, and plate of 10 cuts, of German
foot-soldiers, 15th-16th centuries.

— Same. 4th ed. 1888. (v. 10. p. 469.)

Sigel, G. A. Deutschlands Heer und Flotte in Wort
und Bild. 1900. RG355S57

Colored plates. Text in English and German.

Uniforms of the Armies of the Si.c Great Powers of
Europe. (In Standard dictionary. Sup., 1903.
p. 2187.) Ref. 423F98Su

Section of colored plates, showing 19 modern German
uniforms.

Zogbaum, R. F. Germany: a night with the Fourth
Corps. (In his Horse, Foot, and Dragoons.
1888. pp. 75-99.) 355Z85

10 plates and cuts of German uniforms.

Gipsy Costume

Boner, Charles. Transylvania; its products and its
people. 1865. 914.39B71

Elate of gipsy group, with brief scattered references in text.

Cuttriss, Frank. Romany Life. 1915. 397C99

Gerard, E. The Land beyond the Forest: facts,
figures, and fancies from Transylvania. 2 v.
1888. 914.39G35

2 photogravures and 5 wood-cuts of gipsy costume.

McCormick, Andrew. The Tinkler-Gypsies. 1907.

397M13

Photo.graphic reproductions.

Page One Hundred Sixty-two

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Morwood, V. S. Our Gipsies in City, Tent, and
Van. 1885. 397M89

Pennell, E. R. To Gipsyland; illustrated by J.
Pennell. 1893. 914.39P41

Frequent reference to gipsy dress. Many black-and-
white illustrations of gipsy costume.

Smith, F. B. Budapest: the city of the Magyars.
1903. 914.39S64

Illustrations include 17 half-tones of Hungarian gipsies.

Yoxall, J. H. A Word on Gypsy Costume. (In
Journal of the Gypsy Lore Society. New ser.,
V. 1, July, 1907, pp. 23-25.)

Including 1 illustration and bibliographical notes.

Gloves

Beck, S. W. Gloves; their annals and associations.
1883. 391B39

Many wood-cuts.

Redfem, W. B. Royal and Historic Gloves and
Shoes, Illustrated and Described. 1904.

Ref. 391R31

46 plates (4 colored) of gloves, chiefly English and Scotch.

Uzanne, L. 0. The Sunshade — the Glove — the
Muff. 1883. Ref. 391U99S

Historic and descriptive. Numerous photogravures.

Greece
Abrahams, Ethel B. Greek Dress. 1908. 391 A15

54 half-tone illustrations.

Becker, W. A. Charikles; or. Illustrations of the
private life of the ancient Greeks. 1845.

913B39CH

Dress, pp. 159-71, 304-25; Shoes, pp. .326-31; Hair and
beard, pp. 332-38. 1 plate and 9 wood-cuts of dress.

— Same. 5th ed. 1880.

Notes somewhat fuller than in earlier edition. See
" Dress " in index.

Blumner, H. Home Life of the Ancient Greeks.
Tr. by A. Zimmern. 1893. 913B65

" Costume," pp. 1-77. See also " Costume " in Index.
Many wood-cuts. Brief bibliography.

Choisseul-Gouffler, M. G. A. F., comte de. Voyage

Pittoresque de la Grece. 2 v. in 3. 1782-1822.

Ref. F914.95C54

Many of the 325 copperplates show ancient and modern
Greek dress. Descriptive text.

Davis, R. H. Modern Greece. (In his Rulers of
the Mediterranean. 1894. pp. 178-97.)

910D26R

8 cuts of modern Greek costume, several of peasants.

Dupre, L. Voyage a Athenes et a Constantinople.
1825. RF391D94

Colored plates of modern Greek costume. Descriptive
text in French.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Greece. (In her Book of Costume. 1847.
pp. 388-407.) Ref. 391W75

10 wood-cuts, mostly of modern costume.

Evans, Lady M. M. Chapters on Greek Dres
1893. 391E9

74 cuts of classic dress. Bibliography.

Ferriman, Z. D. Home Life in Hellas. 1910.

914.95F39
Furtwdngler, Adolf. Masterpieces of Greek Sculp-
ture. Ref. 733F99

19 photogravures and 200 wood-cuts show classic dress.
Many text references to costume.

Gironi, R. Costume Ancien et Moderne de la
Grece. (In Ferrario, G. Costume. 1815-29.
Europe. V. 1. pt. 1-2.) Ref. F391F37

153 colored copperplates include ancient, Byzantine, and
modern Greek costumes.

Guhl, E. Life of the Greeks and Romans, Described
from Antique Monuments. 1875. 913G94

" Dress," pp. 159-84. 20 outline cuts.

Gulick, C. B. Life of the Ancient Greeks. 1903.

913G97

" Clothing," pp. 153-78. " The Warrior," pp. 188-205.
Many half-tones and cuts of dress.

Harrison, J. E. Greek vase painting. 1894.

Ref. 738H31

Black-and-white illustrations, introducing classic dress.

Hope, Thomas. Grecian costume. (In his Costume
ot the Ancients. 1841. v. 1. pp. 16-38; v. 2,
pp. 37-230.) Ref. 391H79

Outline illustrations.

Laurent, P. E. Recollections of a Classical Tour
through Greece, Turkey, and Italy, in 1818 and
1819. 2v. 1822. Ref. 914L38

4 hand-colored plates, showing Greek ladies, Greek
sailors, etc.

Menard, Rene. Costumes de la Grece. (In his

Vie Privee des Anciens.

87.)

22 outline illustrations.

1881.

pp. 271-
F913M53

St. John, J. A. History of the Manners and Cus-
toms of Ancient Greece. 3 v. 1842. 913S14

" Toilette, dress, and ornaments," v. 2, pp. 50-74. See
also " Costume " in index, v. 3.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Sixty-three

Seymour, T. D. Life in the Homeric Age. 1907.

913S52

" Dress and decoration," pp. 153-77. " Homeric arms,"
pp. 629-82. 2 plates and 17 cuts of dress and armor.

Smith, J. M. Ancient Greek Female Costume.

1882. 391S65

112 outline plates and many smaller illustrations with
explanatory text.

Timayenis, T. T. Greece in the Times of Homer.
1885. 913T58

" Dress and ornaments," pp. 226-40.

Tucker, T. G. Life in Ancient Athens; the social
and public life of a classical Athenian. 1906.

913T89
Dress, pp. 108-20, 167-74. Several cuts of costume.

Uniforms of Greece. (In Koppen F. von. Armies
of Europe, illustrated. 1890.) 355K77

Section of colored plate, showing 5 modern Greek uniforms.

Guatemala

Domville-Fife, C. W. Guatemala and the States of
Central America. 1913. 972.8D67

FrancJc, H. A. Tramping through Mexico, Guate-
mala, and Honduras. 1916. 917.2F82

Maudslay, A. C. Glimpses at Guatemala. 1899.

Ref. 917.28M44

Occasional references to costume. Photogravures of
costume and colored plates of native textiles.

Haik. See Head-dress
Hats. See Head-dress

Hawaii

Anderson, Mrs. Larz. The Spell of the Hawaiian
Islands. 1916. 919A54

Baldwin, C. W. The Geography of the Hawaiian
Islands. 1908. 919.6B18

Boyce, W. D. United States Colonies and De-
pendencies Illustrated. 1914. 325B78

Browne, G. W. Hawaii. (In his New America and
the Far East. v. 1. 1907.) 910B882

" Dress," pp. 30-31. 9 colored plates, including one of
children, and many cuts of dress.

Bryan, W. A. Natural History of Hawaii. 1915.

996B91

Castle,W.R.,J Hawaii: past and present. 1913.

919.6C35

Dunton, Larkin. The World and its People.
Vol. 9. Hawaii; by A. S. Twombly. 1899.

J910.7D92T
GerouM, K. F. Hawaii: scenes and impressions.
1.916. 919.6G37

Goodrich, J. K. The Coming Hawaii. 1914.

996G65

La Farge, John. Reminiscences of the South Seas.

1912. 919.6L15

Musick,J.R. Hawaii : our new possessions. 1898.

919.6M98

2 plates of native costume.

Olivares, Jose de. Our Islands and their People.
2 V. 1899. Ref. 917.29B91

Hawaii, v. 2, pp. 417-538. Many plates (some colored),
and other illustrations of Hawaiian costume.

Stevens, J. L. Picturesque Hawaii. 1894.

* 919.6S844

Head-dress

Becker, W. A. Hair and Beard. (In his Charikles.
1845. pp. 332-38.) 913B39Ch

4 cuts of female hair-dressing of Homeric times.

— Same. 5th ed. 1880. (pp. 453-61.)

Ref. 913B39C

Child, Theodore. Wimples and Crisping Pins:

studies in the coiffures and ornaments of women.

1895. 391C53

Ancient Egypt to modern times. Many wood-cuts and
half-tones.

Description de Tons les Genres de Turbans et Coiffures
Modernes d'Egypte, Syrie, Turquie, etc. (In
Magasin Pittoresque. 1841. pp. 4-6.)

F054M18

16 wood-cuts of modern turbans.
Dulaure, J. A. Pogonologia; or, A philosophical
and historical essay on beards. 1786.

Ref. 391D87

No illustrations.

Fairholt, F. W. Description of Head-dresses. (In
Merrifield, Mrs. M. P. Dress as a Fine Art.
1854. pp. 1-9, 53-60.) Ref. 391M56

3 plates (43 figures) of styles of head-dress.

— Head-dress. (In his Costume in England. 1846.
(pp. 524-47.) 391F17C

Illustrated by wood-cuts.

— Same. 1885. (v. 2. p. 217-53.)

— Same. 1896. (v. 2. p. 217-53.)

Page One Hundred Sixty -four

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Genin, J. N. Illustrated history of the hat, from
the earliest ages to the present time. 1848.

391G33

Jones, William. Crowns and Coronations; a history
of regalia. 1883. 394J79

Chaps. 1, 2, and 11. Cuts of crowns and coronets.

Lichtcnfeld, J. Principles of Physiognomical Hair-
dressing, n.d. 646L69

21 illustrations, wood-cuts.

Moler, A. B. Manual on Barbering, Hairdressing,
Manicuring, etc. 1905. 391M71

Musgravc, George. Nooks and Corners in Old
France. 2 v. 1867. 914.4M987N

" Touraine caps," v. 1, p. 225.

Ortner, Jessica. Practical Millinery. 1892,

646077

Illustrated.

Pauquet freres. Modes et Costumes Historiques.
.?1865. Ref. 391P33

The 96 colored plates are valuable for French head-dress,
493-1864.

Praga, Mrs. Alfred. What to Wear and 'Wlien to
Wear it. 1903. 391P89

Half-tones of head-dress and female costumes.

Quigley, Dorothy. WTiat Dress Makes of us. 1897.

391Q6

Includes illustrated discussion of hairdressing and head-
dress.

Repton, J. A. Observations on the Various Fashions
of Hats, Bonnets, or Coverings for the Head,
Chiefly from the Reign of Henry VHI to the
18th Century. (In Archteologia. v. 24. 1832.
pp. 169-89.) Ref.

8 steel plates, with many outline figures of hats, etc.
Rhead, G. W. Hats, Caps, and Bonnets. (In his

Chats on Costume. 1906. pp. 205-77.)

391R46

Cuts of all kinds of head-dress.

Speight, Alexanna. A Lock of Hair: its history,
ancient and modern. 1871. 391S74

Stewart, James. Plocacosmos; or, The whole art
of Hair-dressing. 1782. Ref. 646S84

9 copperplates.

Winter, F. Die Kamme aller Zeiten. ?1906.

Ref. G391W78

48 plates (about 300 figures^, with notes on combs, from
the Stone Age to the present.

Hebrew Costume. See Jewish Costume
Herzegovina. See Balkan States

Hindoostan. See India
Holland. See Netherlands
Hungary. See Austria-Hungary

India

Asiatic Costumes. 44 engravings, with a description
to each subject. 1828. 391A83

Engraved from drawings taken during a residence in
India.

Birt, F. B. Bradley-. Chota Nagpore; a little-
known province of the Empire. 1903. yi5.4B61

About 20 half-tone plates of costume.

Conway, M. D. My Pilgrimage to the Wise Men
of the East. 1906. 910C76

7 half-tone plates of Indian costume, mostly religious.

Crooke, William. Natives of Northern India. 1907.
(Native races of the British Empire.) 572C94

Frequent text references to costume. 32 plates of cos-
tume.

Things Indian. 1906.

Dress, pp. 155-67; jewelry, pp. 287-91.

915.4C94

Curtis, Lillian J. Laos of North Siam. 1903.

915.9C97

Dress, pp. 108-1 1^, etc. Half-tone illustrations, showing
costume.

Curtis, W. E. Burma. (In his Egypt, Burma, and
British Malaysia. 1905. pp. 251-348.)

910C98

6 half-tone plates of Burmese costume.

Del Mar, Walter. Romantic East, Burma, Assam,
and Kashmir. 1906. 915.9D33

Costume of Burma, pp. 8-9. Several half-tone plates of
costume.

Ferrario, Giulio. LTnde, Appelee Indostan, et
rindo-Chine. (In his Costume. 1815-29. Asie,
V. 2.) Ref. F391F37

92 colored copperplates of Hindoo, Burmese, Siamese, and
other costumes.

Grindlay, R. M. Scenery, Costumes, and Architec-
ture, Chiefly on the Western Side of India. 1830.

R915.4G866

Colored engravings.

Gurdon, P. R. T. The Khasis. 1907. (Ethno-
graphical monograph, published under the orders
of the Government of Eastern Bengal and Assam.)

572G97

8 colored and 11 monochrome plates.

Hart, W. H. Everyday Life in Bengal and Other
Indian Sketches. 1906. 915.4H32

Illustrations include several half-tones of costume.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Sixty-five

Hodson, T. C. The Meitheis. 1908. (Ethno-
graphical monograph, published under the orders
of the Government of Eastern Bengal and Assam.)

572H69

9 colored and 7 monochrome plates, illustrating this
" dominant race of Manipur."

India and the War. 1915. 355139

Has colored plates of military costume.

Jacob, S.S. Jeypore Enamels. 1886. Ref. 748J15

Colored frontispiece of Jeypore enamellers.

Kelly, R. T. Burma, Painted and Described. 1905.

915.9K29

Several of the colored plates show costume.

Koenigsmarck, Count Hans von. A German Staff
Officer in India. 1910. 915.4K78

Gives a few illustrations (not colored) of men in high
rank.

Malcolm, Ian. Indian Pictures and Problems.
1907. 915.4M24

\bout 20 of the 50 half-tone plates show costume.

Marston,A.W. Children of India, n.d. 915.4M37

Many wood-cuts of costumes.

Menpes, Dorothy. The Durbar. Illustrated by
Mortimer Menpes. 1903. 915.4M54

Numerous references in text to dress. Most of the 100
colored plates show costumes of all parts of India.

Murray, A. H. H. High-road of Empire; water-
color and pen-and-ink sketches in India. 1905.

915.4M981

Wood-cuts and colored plates, many showing dross.

Norman, Henry. Peoples and Politics of the Far
East. 1895. 915N54

Half-tone plates of dress of Siam and Indo-China.

— Same. 1904.

Penfield, F. C. East of Suez (Ceylon, India, China,
and Japan). 1906. 915P39

Text references. A number of the plates show Indian
costume.

Penny, F. E. Southern India. 1914. 915.4P416

Contains colored plates.

Seesodia, T. S. J. The Rajputs. 1915. 954S45

Shoberl, Frederic. World in Miniature. Hindoo-
stan. 6 V. 1827. Ref. 915.4S559

Illustrated by 103 colored engravings.

— World in Miniature. Thibet and India beyond
the Ganges. 1827. Ref. 915.18559

12 colored plates of costume.

Singh, S. N. India's Fighters. 1914. 355S61

Photographs showing soldiers' costumes.

Solvyns, B. The Costume of Indostan Elucidated
by Sixty Colored Engravings, with Descriptions
in English and French, taken in the Years 1798
and 1799. 1804. Ref. 391S69

Stack, E. The Mikirs. 1908. (Ethnographical
monograph, published under the orders of the
Government of Eastern Bengal and Assam.)

572S77

4 colored and 4 monochrome Illustrations of this tribe of

Steel, F. A. India. Illustrated by Mortimer
Menpes. 1905. 915.4S813

Thompson, P. A. Lotus Land: account of the
country and the people of southern Siam. 1907.

915.9T47

See " Dress " in Index. 7 plates, including 2 of children,
of Siamese costume.

Thurston, Edgar. Ethnographic notes in southern
India. 1906. 572T54

" On dress," pp. 520-31. 40 half-tone plates.

Watson, J. F. The Textile Manufacturers and the
Costumes of the People of India. 1866.

Ref. 677W338

Eight plates of costume illustrations.

Young, Ernest. Siam. With 12 full-page illus-
trations in color by E. A. Norbury. 1908.
(Peeps at many lands series.) 915.9 Y71P

" Food and dress," pp. 52-56.

Yusef-Ali, Abdullah. Life and Labor of the People
of India. 1907. 915.4A136

Bridal dress, p. 271. Dress traditions, pp. 312-15.
Colored frontispiece and 4 other plates of costume.

Indians of North America

Berlin. Royal Museum. North-west Coast of
America: ethnological researches of the Royal
Museums at Berlin, n.d. Ref.

The lithographic plates include head-dress and masks.
Photogravures of Chilkat blanket.

Biart, Lucien. The Aztecs: their history, manners,
and cu.stoms. 1887. 972B57

Clothing, pp. 292-94.

Bourke, J. G. Snake-dance of the Moquis of
Arizona. 1884. 970.3B77

See " Costume " in Index. 10 colored plates of Moqui
and Navajo costume.

Catlin, George. 0-kee-pa : a religious ceremony and
other customs of the Mandans. 1867.

Ref. 970.6C36
Ceremonial dress, pp. 16-22. Seven of the colored plates
show costume.

Page One Hundred Sixty-six

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Catlin, George. Notes of 8 years' travel. With his
North American Indian collection. 2 v. 1848.

970.6C36N

Many outline engravings from the author's original
paintings of Indians.

■ — Illustrations of the Manners, Customs, and

Condition of the North American Indians.

9th ed. 2 v. 1857. Ref. 970.1C36I

Many notes on costume. 360 engravings from paintings
by autlior.

Curtis, Natalie. Indians' Book. 1907. 970.1C97

Text does not treat costume. 22 plates from photographs
of Indians and several colored plates, showing Indian pictures
of apparel.

Dellenbaugh, F. S. North -Americans of Yesterday.
1901. 970.1D35

" Weaving and costume," pp. 123-60. Many illustrations
of Indian costume and ornament.

Dodge, R.I. Our Wild Indian. 1882. 970.1D64

" Clothing, finery, and personal adornment," pp. 297-310.
6 colored plates and a number of wood-cuts of costume.

Ferrario, Giulio. L'Amerique. (In his Costume.
1815-29. Am^rique. v. 1.) Ref. F391F37

Many colored copperplates of North American Indians.

Harvey, Fred. First Families of the Southwest.
1913. 970.6H34

Contains colored illustrations of costume of various
tribes of Pueblo Indians.

Hind, H. Y. Explorations in the Interior of the
Labrador Peninsula, the Country of the Monta-
gnais and Nasquapee Indians. 2 v. 1863.

917.19H66

Chromo-lithographs and wood-cuts of trappers and
Indians.

— Narrative of the Canadian Red River Exploring
Expedition of 1857 and of the Assiniboine and
Saskatchewan Exploring Expeditions of 1858.
2 v. 1860. 917.1H66

Lithographs and wood-cuts of Canadian Indians and
apparel (v. 2).

Hodge, F. W. Handbook of American Indians
North of Mexico, 1907. pt. 1, A-M. (U. S.
Burea-a of Ethnology, Bulletin 30.)

Ref. 970.1U58

"Adornment," by Alice C. Fletcher, pp. 16-20; "Cloth-

ing," by Walter Hough,
raphies.

3. 310-12. 22 cuts and bibliog-

Hooge, Romeyn de. Costumes; a series of 43 copper
engravings of the peoples and castes of different
nations, n.d. Ref. 391H77

Several plates of North American Indians.

Howard, 0. 0. My Life and Experiences among
our Hostile Indians. 1907. BH851H

13 colored plates, showing dress and weapons.

Humfreville, J. L. Twenty Years among our Savage
Indians. 1897. 970.1H92

See " Dress " in Index. 10 chromo-lithographs and
numerous half-tone cuts of Indian costume.

M'Kenney, T. L. History of the Indian Tribes )f
North America. 3 v. 1838-44.

Ref. 970.1M155H

120 colored portraits from the Indian Gallery in the
Department of War at Washington.

Mason, 0. T. Aboriginal American Basketry. (In
U. S. National Museum Report. 1902. pp.
171-548.— U. S. Doc. Serial 4549.) Ref.

248 plates, including 29 of Indian women.

Indian Basketry. 2 v. 1904.

The same work as the preceding.

Ref. 689M41

Schoolcraft, H. R. Information Respecting the
History, Condition, and Prospects of the Indian
Tribes of the United States. 5 v. 1853-56.

Ref. 970.1U58S

Costume, v. 3, pp. 65-6G; v. 4, pp. 58-59. 10 monotone
lithographs of costume.

— Same. v. 1-3. 1851-53.

Several of the plates of costume in this edition are colored.

Starr, Frederick. Indians of Southern Mexico.
1899. Ref. 970.1S79I

Photogravure plates, preceded by descriptions, mostly
showing costume.

Tout, C. Hill. British North America, v. 1. The
Far West. 1907. 572T73

Dress and personal adornment, pp. 63-88. Most of the
33 half-tone plates show Salish and D6n6 costume.

Tozzer, A. M. Comparative Study of the Mayas
and the Lacandones. 1907. (Archseol. Inst, of
America. Report of the Fellow on Amer. Archaeol.
1902-05.) 970.3T75

Costume, pp. 29-32.

U. S. Census Office. 11th Census. Report on
Indians Taxed and not Taxed in the United
States (except Alaska), 1890. 1894. Ref.

Statistical, historical, and ethnographic monographs by
Rrinton, Donaldson, Lord, and others. Many colored and
half-tone plates of costumes of all types of Indians.

Same. (In U. S. Documents. Serial 3016.)

Indians of South America

Ref.

(In

Ferrario, Giulio. L'Amerique Meridionale.
his Costume. 1815-29. Amerique. v. 2.)

Ref. F391F37

Many colored copperplates of South American Indians.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Sixty-seven

Schmidimeyer, Peter. Travels into Chile, over the
Andes, in the Years 1820 and 1821. 1824.

Ref. 918.3S35

30 plates, including 11 in color. 4 show Araucanos.

United States Astronomical Expedition to the Southern
Hemisfhere, 1849-52. 1856. (U. S. 33d Con-
gress, 1st sess. House exec, doc, 121. Serial
728.) Ref.

Note on Araucanian dress (v. 1, pp. 67-6S), with colored
plate of chief.

Wright, Mrs. M. R. Primitive Inhabitants of
BoHvia. (In her Bolivia. 1907. pp. 439-50.)

Ref. 984W95

16 half-tones of modern Indian costume.

Ireland

Birmingham, G. A. (J. O. Hannay.) Irishmen
All. 1913.

12 illustrations in color.

— The Lighter Side of Irish Life. 1912. 914.15H24

16 illustrations in color.

Bonwick, James. Our Nationalities. 1. Who are
the Irish.' 1880. 572B72

Brief historical notes of Celtic dress and ornament, pp.
69-76.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Ireland. (In her Book of Costume. 1847. pp.
186-89.) Ref. 391W75

3 small wood-cuts.

Harvey, William. Irish Life and Humor. With
illustrations by ErskineNicol. 1904. 914.15H34

Joyce, P. W. Social History of Ancient Ireland.
2 V. 1903. 941.5J89S

" Dress and personal adornment," v. 2, pp. 176-263.
21 illustrations of apparel, mostly from ancient MSS. and
sculpture.

Meyrick, S. R. Costume of the Original Inhabitants
of the British Islands. 1821. Ref. 391M61

Including 6 colored plates of ancient Irish costume.

0' Curry, Eugene. On the Manners and Customs of
the Ancient Irish. Ed. by W. K. Sullivan. 3 v.
1873. 913021

Dress and ornament, v. 1, by Sullivan; v. 3, pp. 87-211,
Historical summary.

Sh-oberl, F. World in Miniature. England, Scot-
land, and Ireland. Edited by W. H. Pyne. 4 v,
1827. Ref. 914.2S559

2 colored plates, in v. 4, of Irish costume.

See also England

Italy

Allom, Thomas. Character and Costume of Turkey
and Italy, with Descriptive Letter-press by Emma
Reeve, n.d. Ref. 914.96A44

12 lithographic plates of Italian costume of about 1840.

Bridgens, Richard. Sketches Illustrative of the
Manners and Costumes of France, Switzerland,
and Italy. 1821, R391B851

Plates, with descriptive text.

Buonaiuti, B. S. Italian Scenery, Representing
the Manners, Customs, and Amusements of Italy.
1823. R914.5B94

32 colored plates.

Carmichael, Montgomery. In Tuscany. 1901.

914.5C28

11 small half-tones of costume.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Costume in
Italy, Sicily, and Malta. (In her Book of Cos-
tume. 1847. pp. 315-34.) Ref. 391W75

11 wood-cuts.

Ferrario, Giulio. Costume des Italiens. (In his
Costume. 1815-29. Europe, v. 3, pt. 1-2.)

Ref. F391F37

General sketch of the history of Italian costume. 141
colored plates, mostly showing costume. Plates 79 and
80 show uniforms of about 1820.

Gifford, Mrs. A. H. Italy, Her People, and Their
Story. 1905. 945G458

Illustrated from portraits and famous paintings.

Goiran, G. Italian Army. (In Armies of To-day.
1893. pp. 311-58.) 355M27

12 cuts of uniforms.

Gordon, Lina Duff. Home Life in Italy. Letters
from the Apennines. 1908. 914.5G66

28 half-tone illustrations, chiefly of peasant life.

Koppen, F. von. Italy. (In his Armies of Europe,
Illustrated. 1890. pp. 42-45.) 355K77

Double colored plates, (7 figures, including 1 of naval
uniform) and 2 text illustrations of uniforms of the period.

Molmenti, P. G. Venice, from the Earliest Begin-
nings to the Fall of the Republic. Tr. by H. F.
Brown. 6 v. 1906-08. 945M72

" Costume," v. 2, pp. 1-22; v. 4, pp. 81-253; v. 5, pp-
204-29. A few colored and many half-tone plates of 14th-
18th century dress.

Perl, Henry. Venezia. From the German, by Mrs.
Arthur Bell. 1894. Ref. 914.5P45

Many full-page and text wood-cuts of Venetian costume.

Pinelli, Bartolomeo. Nuevo Raccolta di Cinquanta
Costumi. 1816. RI391P65

50 copperplates of Italian costume.

Page One Hundred Sixty-eight

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Pinelli, Bartolomeo. Twenty-seven Etchings Illus-
trative of Italian Manners and Costume. 18t4.

R767P65T

Sketch-book by an American in Venice. 1860.

391S62

22 plates, colored by hand. No text.

Souvenir de St. Lazare, Venice, n.d. Ref. 271S72

14 colored plates.

Steiler, Karl, and others. Italy, from the Alps to
Mount Etna. n.d. Ref. 914.5S85I

Includes a number of wood-cuts of modern Italian
costume.

Strutt, A. J. Illustrations of a Pedestrian Tour in
Calabria and Sicily, n.d. Ref. 914.5S92

Book of etchings.

Tuker, M. A. R. Rome, painted by A. Pisa. 1905.

Ref. 914.5T91

Peasant costumes, in color.

Uniforms of the Armies of the Six Great Powers of
Europe. (In Standard dictionary. Sup. 1903.
p. 2187.) Ref. 423F98Su

Vaughan, H. M. The Naples Riviera, n.d.

914.5V36

A few of the 2.5 illustrations in color, by Maurice Greiffen-
hagen, show costume, painted in 1904.

Zimmern, Helen. Italy of the Italians. 1906.

914.5Z76

A few half-tones of modern Italian costume.

Japan

Anderson, William.. Pictorial Arts of Japan. 1886.

Ref. 709A5O

Includes many colored plates, photogravures, and wood-
cuts of costume by native artists.

Arnold, Sir Edwin. Japonica. 1891. 915.2A75J

Black-and-white illustrations of Japanese dress.

Breton de la Martiniere, J. B. J. Le Japon. 4 v.
1818. F915.2B84

Contains 51 engravings.

Browne, G. W. Japan. (In his New America and
the Far East. 1907. v. 2-3.) 910B882

Customs and costumes, v. 2, pp. 355-62. 18 plates (12
colored) and many cuts of costume.

— Japan: the place and the people. 1904.

915.2B882

Same text and plates as preceding work.

Griffis, W. E. Th(- Mikado's Empire. 1876.

952G85M

Includes many references to and cute of costume.

— Same. 1883.

— Same. 1899.

— Same. 9th ed. 1900.

— Same. 10th ed. 1903.

— Same. 11th ed. 1906.

Hawks, F. L. Narrative of the Expedition of an
American Squadron to the China Seas and Japan,
1852, 1853, and 1854, under Com. M. C. Perry.
V. 1. 1856. (U. S. 33d Cong. 2d sess' House
exec. doc. v. 12. Serial No. 802.) Ref. 915.2U58

Many wood-cuts and lithographed plates of Japanese
costume.

Holland, Clive. Things Seen in Japan. 1907.

915.2H73

50 half-tone illustrations.

Knox, G. W. Imperial Japan; the country and its
people. 1905. 952K74

Numerous illustrative plates of Japanese women.

Levati, Ambrogio. lies du Japon. (In Ferrario,
G. Costume. 1815. Asie. v. 1. pp. 383-
453.) Ref. 391F37

6 colored copperplates of Japanese costume.

National Geographic Magazine. Vol. 22.

Ponting, H. G. In Lotus-land Japan. 1907.

915.2P81

Numerous colored plates and photographs.

Salwey,C.M. Fans of Japan. 1894. Ref. 391S18

10 colored plates and 39 other illustrations.

Shoherl,F. Japan. 1827. R915.2S559

20 colored engravings.

Silver, J. M. W. Sketches of Japanese Manners and
Customs. 1867. Ref. 915.2S58

27 chromo-lithograph fac-similes of native drawings.

Wilson, H. W. Japan's Fight for Freedom: the
war between Russia and Japan. 2 v. 1904-05.

Ref. 951W74

Jewelry

Luihmer, F. Ornamental Jewellery of the Renais-
sance in Relation to Costume. 1882.

R739L970

Colored plates. No text.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Sixty-nine

Jewish Costume

Abrahams, Israel. Jewish Life in the Middle Ages.

1897. 296A15

" Costume in law and fashion," pp. 273-90; " The Jewish
badge," pp. 291-306.

De Qnincey, Thomas. Toilette of the Hebrew Lady.

(In his Collected Writings. 1890. v. 6, pp.

152-78.) 828D42

No illustrations.

Levati, Ambrogio. Juifs. (In Ferrario, G. Costume.
1817. Asie. V. 3. pp. 70-172.) Ref. 391F37

3 colored copperplates of ancient Jewish costume.

NowacJc, William, and others. Costume. (In Jew-
ish Encyclopedia. 1901-06. v. 4. pp. 292-
303.) Ref. 933S61

Series of articles on Biblical to present-day Jewish dress,
with bibliographical notes. Double-page colored plates
(30 figures) and 17 wood-cuts.

Pierotti, Ermete. Customs and Traditions of
Palestine, Illustrating the Manners of the Ancient
Hebrews. 1864. 915.6P61

Costume, pp. 130-53.

Stapfer, Edmond. Palestine in the Time of Christ.
1885. 933S79

" Clothing," pp. 190-201.

See also Turkish Empire

Korea

Bishop, Mrs. I. B. Korea and Her Neighbors.

1898. 915.1B62K

See " Costumes " in Index. 5 half-tone plates of cos-
tumes.

Griffis, W. E. Corea; the hermit nation. 1882.

915.1G85CE

" Costume," pp. 81, 273-76. 2 wood-cuts.

Hamilton, Angus. Korea. 1904. 915.1H21

Costume in Seoul, pp. 35-40. Several half-tone plates of
costume.

Hulbert,H.n. Passing of Corea. 1906. 951H91P

Many half-tone plates of costume.

Lowell, P. Choson: the land of the morning calm.
1888. 915.1L91

" Costume," pp. 316-31. Wood-cuts.

Norman, Henri/. Peoples and Politics of the Far
East. 1895. 915N54

Several half-tones of Korean costume.

— Same. 1905.

See also China; Japan
Lapland. See Norway; Russian Empire

Macedonia.

Baijcan States

Malaysia
Hurgronje, C. S. The Achanese. Tr. by W. S.

O'SuUivan. 2 v. 1906.

919.2H96

Dress, v. 1, pp. 25-30. See also "Apparel" in Index.
Numerous wood-cuts and half-tones, showing male and
female costume.

Shoberl, Frederic. World in Miniature. The Asia-
tic Islands and New Holland. 2 v. n.d.

26 colored illustrations. ReF. 919S559

Skeat, W. W. Pagan Races of the Malay Peninsula.
2 V. 1906. 572S62

I See " Dress " in Index. Many half-tones of natives.

Maori Costume.

New Zealand

Marriage Costume. See Bridal Costume

Medleval Costume
Boutet de Monvel, M. Joan of Arc. Illustrated in
. color. 1897. JBD214Bo

Cutts, E. L. Scenes and Characters of the Middle
Ages. 1885. Ref. 940C99

Costume of the merchant class, pp.51 8-28. Many wood-
cuts.

Davies, A. C. Fox-. Art of Heraldry: an encyclo-
paedia of armory. 1904. Ref. 929.2D25A

Heraldic costume, pp. 12-32. Plates (5 colored) and
wood-cuts, showing heraldic costume and armor.

Gautier, Leon. Chivalry. Translated by Henry
Firth. 1891. 394G27

Numerous wood-cuts.

Lacroix, Paul. Arts in the Middle Ages. n.d.

Ref. 709L14

10 colored plates and many wood-cuts of costume.

— Costumes. (In his Manners, Customs, and
Dress during the Middle Ages. n.d. pp. 509-
54.) Ref. 940L14M

Many colored plates and wood-cuts of costumf .

— Military and Religious Life in the Middle Ages.
n.d. " Ref. 940L14Mi

Colored plates and wood-cuts of dress and armor.

— Science and Literature in the Middle Ages. 1878.

Ref. 940L14

Most of the wood-cuts and colored plates show costume.

Loemyer, J. F. N. Costume de Moyen Age. 1847.
2 V. RF391L82

Contains colored plates.

Lonsdale, H. W. Illustrations of Mediaeval Cos-
tume. 1874. Ref. 391L86
50 plates.

Page One Hundred Seventy

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Michaud, J. F. History of the Crusades. 2 v.
n.d. Ref. 940M62H

100 plates by Gustave Dor^.
Munro, D. C. History of the Middle Ages. 1902.

940M96
Many of the half-tones and cuts show dress.

Shaw, Henry. Dresses and Decorations of the
Middle Ages. 2 v. 1858. Ref. 391S53

From Anglo-Saxon times to end of 16th century. Special
attention to English costume. Many colored plates and
wood-cuts.

Spalart, Robert von. Versuch iiber das Kostum der
vorziiglichsten Volker des Mittelalters. 5 v.
and atlas. 1800-11. RG391S73V

Contains colored plates.
Trumble, Alfred. Sword and Scimetar : the romance
of the Crusades. 1886. Ref. 940T86

Plates by Gustave Dor^, showing costume and armor of
the Crusaders. A fuller collection of plates by Dore in
Michaud's Crusades.

Viollet-Le-Duc, E. E. Military Architecture. 1879.

623V79

Many wood-cuts of fortifications and weapons of the
Roman and medieval periods.

Weiss, Hermann. Kostiimkunde; Geschichte der
Tracht und des Geraths im Mittelalter. 2d ed.
1883. G391W42

8 colored plates and 367 wood-cuts. List of sources.

See also under the various countries

Mexico

917.2C32

Carson, W. E. Mexico. 1909.

Contains illustrations showing costume.

Decaen, J. Mexico y sus Alrededores. Coleccion
de monumentos, trajes y paisajes. 1864. [Span-
ish and French text.] Ref. S917.2D29

47 lithographs by Mexican artists; of value for costume.

Ferrario, Giulio. Mexique. (In his Costume.
1815-29. Am^rique. v. 1. pp. 501-625.)

Ref. 391F37

Colored copperplates of Indian and Spanish costumes, from
Aztec times to 1820.

Garcia Cubas, A. Republic of Mexico in 1876.
1876. Ref. 917.2G21

8 colored plates of Spanish and native types.

Janvier, Thomas. Mexican Army. (In Armies of
To-day. 1893. pp. 359-96.) 355M27

14 cuts of Mexican uniforms of the period.

Plummer, M. W. Roy and Ray in Mexico. 1907.

917.2P73

9 half-tone plates of modern costumes.

Sierra, J. Mexico: its social evolution. Trans-
lated from the Spanish by G. Sentinon. 3 v.
1900-04. Ref. 972S57

Many half-tones, some of which show costume and army
uniforms.

Starr, Frederick. Indians of Southern Mexico.
1899. Ref. 970.1S79I

Photogravures, preceded by descriptive text.

See also Indians of North America
Montenegro. See Balkan States

Morocco
Bensusan and Forrest. Morocco. 1904. 916.4B47

Illustrations. Colored piates.

Nepal. See Tibet

Netherlands

Boughton, G. H. Sketching Rambles in Holland.
1885. 914.92B75

Illustrations (wood-cuts), by Boughton and E. A. Abbey.
More than 50 of costume.

Edwards, G. W. Holland of To-day. 1909.

914.92E26

Contains colored full-page illustrations.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Holland. (In her Book of Costume. 1847.
pp. 311-14.) Ref. 391W75

3 wood-cuts.

Ferrario, Giulio. La HoUande ou Batavie. (In
his Costume. 1815-29. Europe, v. 6. pp. 23-
172.) Ref. 391F37

Colored plates (14 figures) of 17th century Dutch dress.

Higinbotham, J. W. Three Weeks in Holland and

Belgium. 1908. 914.92H63

Jungmann, Nico. Holland. 1904. 914.92J95

Many references to costume,
plates show dress.

Most of the 75 colored

Koppen, F. von. Holland and Belgium. (In his
Armies of Europe, Illustrated. 1890. pp. 69-
70.) 355K77

Colored plates (11 figures, including 4 naval) and 2 text
illustrations of uniforms.

Maaskamp, E. Afbeeldingen van de Kleedingen,
Zeden, en Gewoonten in Holland. 1803-05.

Du39lMll

21 colored plates, with text in Dutch and French.

Meldrum, D. S. Home Life in Holland. 1911.

914.92M51H

Costume illustrations at pp. 170, 176 and 180.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Seventy-one

Shoberl, Frederic. World in Miniature. The Neth-
erlands. 1827. Ref. 914.92S55

18 colored engravings, including Belgium.

New Zealand

Reeves, W. P. New Zealand. Painted by F. and
W. Wright. Described by W. P. Reeves. 1908.

993R33NW

75 illustrations in color.

Wakefield, Edward. New Zealand after Fifty
Years. 1889. 919.3W14

3 half-tone plates of Maoris.

Normandy. See France

Norway

Bossi, Luigi. Costume des Norvegiens. (In Fer-
rario, G. Costume, 1815-29. Europe, v. 6.
pp. 260-91.) Ref. 391F37

DuChaillu, P. B. Viking Age. 2 v. 1889.

948D82V

Dress of men, v.- 2, pp. 285-300; dress of women, v. 2,
pp. 301-31. 128 wood-cuts of dress and ornament.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Norway. (In her Book of Costume. 1847.
pp. 346-48.) Ref. 391W75

2 wood-cuts.

Eyne, C. J. C. W. Through Arctic Lapland. 1898.

914.7H99

Several half-tone plates of Lapp costume.

Jungmann, Beatrice. Norway. Illustrated by Nico
Jungmann. 1905. 914.8J95

Scattered references to costume. About 30 colored plates
show costume.

Koppen, F. von. Sweden and Norway. (In his
Armies of Europe. 1890. pp. 61-63.) 355K77

Colored plates (6 figures) and 2 text illustrations of
uniforms.

Monroe, W. S. In Viking Land : Norway, its peo-
ples, its fjords, and its fjelds. 1908. 948M75

Consult Index under " Dress." Of the 48 half-tone plates,
3 are definitely of costumes.

Pritchett, R. T. " Gamle Norge " : rambles and

scrambles in Norwav. 1879.

914.8P90

Frequent references to, and several illustrations of,
national costume.

Steele, T. S. Voyage to Viking-Land. 1896.

914.8S81

S half-tones of Norwegian and Lapp costume.

Tonsberg, C. Udvalgte Norske Nationaldragter.
1852. RD391T66

15 colored plates. Text in Norwegian, German, and
English.

OCEANICA

Brassey, Lady. Tahiti. 1882. 919.6B82

Illustrations, from photographs, including G of costume.

Elkington, E. W. Savage South Seas: 1907.

919.3E43S

Most of the 68 colored plates show native costumes.

Ferrario, Giulio. Ocean ique. (In his Costume.
1815-29. Asie. v. 4. pp. 285-585.)

Ref. 391F37

Many colored copperplates of costume.

Grimshaw, Beatrice. From Fiji to the Cannibal
Islands. 1907. 919G86

Many half-tones, plates, and insets of costume.

Shoberl, Frederic. World in Miniature. South
Sea Islands. 2 v. n.d. Ref. 919S72

Illustrated by colored engravings.

Orders

Lawrence- Archer, J. H. The Orders of Chivalry,
English and Foreign. 1887. R929.7L42

Colored illustrations of the'deeorations and insignia of the
orders of Great Britain and Europe.

Palestine. See Turkish Empire

Peasant Costume

Aria, Mrs. E. Of British Peasants. Of some for-
eign pea.sauts. (In her Costume: fanciful, his-
torical, and theatrical. 1906. pp. 115-46.)

391A69

2 colored plates and 10 half-tones.

Colquhoun, A. R. Whirlpool of Europe; Austria-
Hungary and the Hapsburgs. 1907. 943.6C72

About 40 half-tones of costume. Peasant costumes have
been given preference.

Holme, Charles. Peasant Art in Austria and Hun-
gary. 1911. 709H74PE

— Peasant Art in Italy. 1913. 709H74Ps

— Peasant Art in Russia. 1912. 709H74Pr

Illustrations of peasant costume, in monotone.

Lyall, Robert. Character of the Russians, and
History of Moscow. 1823. Ref. 914.7L98

3 colored plates of Russian peasants.

Schild, Marie. Old English Peasant Costumes.
1898. 391S33

Persia

De Lorey, Eustache. Queer Things about Persia.
1907. 915.5L86

" Persian women and their dress," pp. 103-10. 17 of the
half-tone plates show costume.

Page One Hundred Seventy-two

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Persia. (In her Book of Costume. 1847. pp.
432-40.) Ref. 391W75

3 wood-cuts.

Ferrario, Giulio. Costume Ancien et Moderne des
Perses. (In his Costume. 1815-29. Asie. v. 3.
pp. 382-596.) Ref. 391F37

About 20 colored copperplates of ancient, medieval, and
modern Persian costume.

Jackson, A. V. W. Persia, Past and Present. 1906.

915.5J12

More than 20 of the illustrations show costume, mostly
modern.

Shoberl, Frederic. World in Miniature. Persia.
3 V. n.d. Ref. 915.5S55P

30 colored engravings.

Shoemaker, M. M. Heart of the Orient. 1904.

915S55H

3 plates of Persian dress (half-tones).

Sparroy, Wilfrid. Persian Children of the Royal
Family. 1902. 915.5S73

20 half-tone plates of costume.

Wilson, S. G. Persian Life and Customs. 1895.

915.5W75

5 half-tone plates of dress.

Peru

Skinner, Joseph. The Present State of Peru.
1805. 918.5S62

20 colored plates of costumes, etc.

Wright, M. R. The Old and the New Peru. 1908.

Ref. 985W95

Infantry uniform, p. 170; Marines, p. 173; Indians,
chap. 36.

Philippine Islands

Browne, G. W. The Philippines. (In his New
America and the Far East. 1907. v. 1-2.)

910B882

v. 1, pp. 208-19, contains many references to costume.
3 half-tone plates and many cuts of native dress.

Olivares, Jose de. Our Islands and their People, as
Seen with Camera and Pencil. 2 v. 1899.

Ref. 917.29B91

Philippines, v. 2, pp. 549-768. A few colored plates, and
many half-tones, of native dress.

Russel, F. K. A Woman's Journey through the
Philippines. 1907. 919.1R95

Conault Index. 8 plates of costumes.

Sawyer, F. H. Inhabitants of the Philippines.
1900. 919.1S27

Many references (pp. 201-375) to dress. Several half-
tone plates of native dress.

Worcester, D. C. The Philippine Islands and Their
People. 1898. 919.1W91

3 plates of dress.

Wright, H. M. Handbook of the Philippines. 1907.

9I9.1W94

Dress, pp. 62-64. Half-tone plates, with small figures in
costume. Several plates of children.

Poland. See Russia

Porto Rico

Browne, G. W. Porto Rico. (In his New America
and the Far East. 1907. v. 6.) 910B882

4 cuts of costume.

Olivares, Jose de. Our Islands and Their People.
2 V. 1899. Ref. 917.29B91

Porto Rico, V. 1, p. 257; v. 2, p. 416. Colored plates and
half-tones show costume.

Portugal

Bradford, William. Sketches of the Country,
Character, and Costume in Portugal and Spain.
1812-13. R914.6B79

Contains colored plates, including military costume.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Portugal. (In her Book of Costume. 1847.
pp. 297-301.) Ref. 391 W75

3 wood-cuts.

Koppen, F. von. Spain and Portugal. (In his
Armies of Europe, Illustrated. 1890. p. 66.)

355K77

Section of colored plates, showing 5 figures in uniform.

Shoberl, Frederic. World in Miniature. Spain and
Portugal. 2 v. n.d. Ref. 914.GS55

27 colored engravings.

Stephens, H. M. Portugal. 1891. (Story of the
nations series.) 9iG.9S83

Several of the wood-cuts show costume.

Watson, Gilbert. Sunshine and Sentiment in Portu-
gal. 1904. 914.69W33

5 half-tone plates of costume.

Quakers

Gummere, A. M. The Quaker: a study in costume.
1901. 391G97

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Seventy-three

Religious Costume

Biedenjeld , F. L. C, Freiherr von. Ursprung,
Aufleben, Grosse, Herrschaft, Verfall und jetzige
Zustande sammtlicher Monchs- und Kloster-
frauen-Orden im Orient iind Occident. 2 v.
1837-39. G271B58

Hand-colored plates of 77 religious orders (male and
female) .

Costume, Ecclesiastical. (In New International En-
cycloptedia. 1902. v. 5. pp. 334-38.)

Ref. 031I61GI

Historical and descriptive, with plate (8 figures), 3 wood-
cuts, and brief bibliography.

Costume, Ecclesiastical. (In New International
Encyclopedia. 1914. v. 6.)

Currier, C. W. History of Religious Orders. 1894.

271C97H

Ilelyot, P. Album; ou. Collection complete et
historique des costumes de la cour de Rome.
1862. Ref. F391P47

80 colored plates, mostly of ecclesiastical and monastic
costume.

Lacroix, Paul. Military and Religious Life in the
Middle Ages and at the Period of the Renaissance,
n.d. Ref. 940L14Mi

" Monastic dress," p. 308. Many colored plates and
wood-cuts of ecclesiastical dress.

Monastic Costumes, n.d.

R391M73

A scries of plates, showing various monastic costumes.
Each plate is accompanied by descriptive letter-press in
Latin and Italian.

Nainfa, J. A. Costume of Prelates of the Catholic
Church, according to Roman Etiquette. 1909.

247N15

Many illustrations, not colored. Bibliography, pp. 195-
198.

Picart, Bernard. Ceremonies and Religious Cus-
toms of the Various Nations of the Known World.
6 V, in 3. 1733-36. Ref. 265P58C

V. 1-2, Jews, Roman Catholics; v. 3-4, Idolatrous
nations; v. 5-6, Greeks and Protestants, English, Moham-
medans. Many copperplates showing religious costumes.

Thurston, Herbert. Clerical Costume. (In Catho-
lic Encyclopedia, v. 4. pp. 419-21.)

Ref. 282C363

Bibliography of 12 titles.

— Pallium. (In Morris, John. Historical Papers.
1892. V. 1. pp. 85-116.) 270M87

9 wood-cuts.
TijacJc, G. S. Historic Dress of the Clergy. 1897.

247T97H

Rome

d\ Private Life of the Romans. 1808.

913A74

" Of clothing," pp. 154-2C0.

Becker, W. A. Gallus; or, Roman scenes in the
time of Augustus. 3d ed. 1866. 913B39

Dress, pp. 98-109; Dress of thn men, pp. 408-30; Dress
of the women, pp. 431-50. 4 wood-cuts of male and one of
female attire.

— Same. 9th ed. 1888. Ref. 913B39

Costumi di Roma e dei contorni. 1846. RI391C84

Colored plates. No text.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Ancient Rome. (In her Book of Costume.
1847. pp. 335-45.) Ref. 391W75

5 wood-cuts.

Friedlander, L. Moeurs Romaines du Regne d'Au-
guste a la fin des Antonins. 2 v. 1865-67.

937F91

Costume and armor of gladiators, v. 2, pp. 273-80.

Guhl, E. Life of the Greeks and Romans, Described
from Antique Monuments. 1875. 913G94

" Dress," pp. 476-501. 11 outline cuts.

Hope, Thomas. Costumes of the Romans. (In his
Costume of the Ancients. 1841. v. 1. pp. 39-
50; V. 2, pi. 232-300.) Ref. 391H79

Historical and descriptive. 69 outline plates.

James, Constantin. Toilette d'une Romaine au
temps d'Auguste. n.d. F391J27

Historical and descriptive sketch of Roman costume.
Without illustrations.

Levati, Ambrogio. Costume Ancien et Moderne des
Remains. (InFerrario, Giulio. Costume. 1815-
29. Europe, v. 2. pp. 221-606.)

Ref. 391F37

General historical sketch of Roman costume. Many of
the 62 colored plates show ancient and mediaeval Roman
costume. Several plates of Papal costume.

Menard, Rene. Le Vetement. (In his Vie Privee
des Anciens. 1881. v. 2. pp. 288-300.)

F913M53

12 outline illustrations.

Perugini, G. Album; ou. Collection ... des Cos-
tumes de la Cour de Rome. Deuxieme ed.
1862. RF391P47

80 colored plates of uniforms of the Papal Court and
Roman Catholic religious costume.

Saunders, C. Costume in Roman Comedy. 1909.

391S25

Monograph, with bibliography. No illustrations.

Page One Hundred Seventj^-four

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Wright, T. The Celt, the Roman, and the Saxon.
1852. 913W95C

Dress of Romans in Britain, pp. 326-33. 3 cuts of orna-
ments.

RouMANiA. See Balkan States

Russian Empire

Atkinson, J. A. Picturesque Representation.s of
the Manners, Customs, and Amusements of the
Russians. 3 v. in 1. 1803. Ref. 914.7A87

100 colored plates of all classes of Russians. Descriptive
text in English and French.

Breton de la Martiniere, J. B. J. La Russie; ou,
Moeurs, Usages, et Costumes des Habitans de
Toutes les Provinces de cet Empire. 6 v. 1813.

F914.7B84

Dohson, George. Russia, Painted by F. de Haenen.
1913. 914.7D63R

— St. Petersburg. Illustrated by F. de Haenen.
1910. 914.7D63

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton, Toilette in
Bokhara, Circassia, and Cashmere. (In her Book
of Costume. 1847. pp. 441-48.) Ref. 391W75

3 wood-cuts.

— Toilette in Poland. (In her Book of Costume.
1847. pp. 360-62.)

4 wood- cuts.

• — Toilette in Russia. (In her Book of Costume.
1847. pp. 363-73.)

7 wood-cuts.

Eyries, J. B. B. La Russie; ou. Costumes, Moeurs,
et Usages des Russes. (In his L'Angleterre.
n.d.) Ref. F391E98

Illustrated by colored engravings.
Ferrario, Giulio. Costume Ancien et Moderne de la
Russie d'Europe. (In his Costume. 1815-29.
Europe, v. 6, pp. 1-162.) Ref. F391F37

24 colored co^perplate3, mostly of costume. Plates 7
and 8 show millitary uniforms.

— Costume des Habitans du Caboul, du Tibet,
Siberia, etc. (In his Costume. 1815-29. Asie,
V. 4. pp. 1-282.)

Colored copperplates of costumes of Kabul, Tibet, Cau-
casia, Turkey, Turkestan, Bokhara, Siberia.

— Costume des Polonais. (In his Costume. 1815-
29. Europe, v. 6. pp. 162-181.)

1 colored plate of Polish costumes (7 figures).

Harding, Edward. Costume of the Russian Empire.
1811. R391H26

72 colored engravings.

Holme, Charles. Peasant Art in Russia. 1912.

709H74PB

Peasant costumes.

Koppen, F. von. Russia. (In his Armies of Europe.
1890. pp. 53-58.) 355K77

Descriptive notes. 2 double colored plates ^lo figures,
including 1 naval), and 6 text illustrations of uniforms.

Latimer, E. W. Russia and Turkey in the 19th
Century. 1895. 947L35

8 plates of costume.

Logan, J. A., Jr. In Joyful Russia. 1897.

914.7L85

About 20 plates of Russian costumes and uniforms.

Lyall, Robert. Character of the Russians, and
History of Moscow. 1823. Rrf. 914.7L98

3 colored plates of Russian peasant costume.

Michell, Thomas. Russian Pictures. 1889.

914.7M62

Wood-cuts of costumes of the empire.

Molloy, J. F. Russian Court in the 18th Century.
2 V. 1905. 947M72

'1 plates of costumss.

Norman, Henry. All the Russias. 1902. 914.7N84

Cuts of Finnish, Russian, and Asiatic types.

Olufsen, 0. Through unknown Pamirs. 1904.

915.8052

" Clothing," pp. 63-72. 15 half-tone cuts of Pamir
costume.

Pallas, P. S. Travels through Southern Provinces
of the Russian Empire in the Years 1793 and 1794.
2 V. 1802. 914.7P16

Has about ten colored plates.

Picturesque Representations of the Dress and Manners

of the Russiaiis. n.d.

Ref. 391P61R

64 colored engravings of various costumes of the empire,
made 1776-1779.

Rechberg-Rothenloewen, Karl, Reichsgraf von. Les
Peuples de la Russie. 2 v. 1812-13.

Ref. F914.7R29

Colored plates of Slavic, Finnish, and Tartar types.

Russian Army. (In Armies of To-day. 1893. pp.
217-59.) 355M27

13 cuts of modern Russian uniform.

Seven Colored Plates of Russian Costumes of Various
Trades. .^820. R391S49

Each plate is mounted, and has a title in Russian, Ger-
man and English.

Shoberl, Frederic. World in Miniature. Russia.
4 V. 1827. Ref. 914.7S559

72 colored engravings of Slavs, Poles, Asiatics, etc.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Seventy-five

Singleton, Esther. Russia as Seen and Described
by Great Writers. 1904. 914.7S61

5 plates of costume.

Spencer, Edmund. Travels in Circassia, Krim-
Tartary, etc. 3d ed. 2 v. 1839. 914.7S74

Colored frontispiece and several small cuts of dress.

Stadling, Jonas. In the Land of Tolstoi: experi-
ences of famine and misrule in Russia. 1897.

914.7S77

Many wood-cuts and half-tones of Russian costume,
chiefly peasant.

Steveni, W. B. Things Seen in Russia. 1913.

914.7S84T

Contains photographs of contemporary costume.

Stewart, Ihigh. Provincial Russia. 1913.

914.7S849

32 illustrations in color and black-and-white, showing
costume.

Uniforms of the Armies of the Six Great Powers of
Europe. (In Standard Dictionary. Sup. 1903.
p. 2187.) Ref. 423F98SU

Section of colored plates, showing IS Russian uniforms.

Villari, Luigi. Fire and Sword in the Caucasus.
1906. 947V72

Half-tone plates of Cossack, Georgian, Armenian, and
Tartar costume.

Wibon, H. W. Japan's Fight for Freedom: the
story of the war between Russia and Japan. 2 v.
1904-05. Ref. 951W74

Many half-tones, showing Russian uniforms.

Samoa

Churchill, L. P. Samoa 'Uma, where Life is Dif-
ferent. 1902. 919.6C.56

11 half-tone plates of Samoan costume.

Hamm, M. A. America's New Possessions. 1899.

910H22

7 half-tones of Samoan dress.

Olivares, Jose de. Our Islands and their People.
2 V. 1899. Ref. 917.29B91

Samoa, v. 2, pp. 539-47. Half-tones of costume.

Turner, George. Samoa a Hundred Years Ago and
Long Before. 1884. 919.6T94

" Clothing," pp. 118-23. 2 wood-cuts of costume.

Savoy

Canziani, Estella. Costumes, Traditions, and Songs
of Savoy. 1911. *391C23

Illustrated with 47 colored plates, several of costume.

Scotland

Adam, Frank. Clans, Septs, and Regiments of the
Scottish Highlands. 1908. 941A19C

Has 13 plates illustrating Highland garb, and colored
plates oftartans.

— What is my Tartan.'* The clans of Scotland, with
their septs and dependents. 1896. Ref. 941A19

Descriptive notes on tartans, arms, badges, etc., of the
various clans.

Bonwick, James. Our Nationalities. Who are the
Scotch.^ 1880. 572B72

" Old Scotch dress," pp. 130-32.

Browne, James. History of the Highlands and of
the Highland Clans. 4 v. 1857-58. 941B88

Colored plates, chiefly in v. 4, of principal tartans.

Campbell, Lord Archibald. Children of the Mist; or.
The Scottish clansmen in peace and war. 1890.

941C18C

Numerous notes on costume. Double-page frontispiece,
showing Highland and English uniforms of 1745.

— [Craignish tales, and others.] 1889. 398C187

p. 84. Notes on the war dress of the Celt. With illus-
trations.

— Highland Dress, Arms, and Ornament. 1899.

914.1C187

Many half-tones and several photogravures of uniforms
and arms.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Scotland. (In her Book of Costume. 1847.
pp. 176-85.) Ref. 391 W75

2 small wood-cuts.

Gibb, William. The Royal House of Stuart, illus-
trated from relics of the Stuarts. 1890.

Ref. 920G438

40 colored plates, some showing wearing apparel. 4
plates show regalia of Scotland.

Graham, H. G. Social Life of Scotland in the 18th
Century. 2d ed. 1906. 914.1G73

See " Dress " in Index.

Grierson, E. W. Children's Book of Edinburgh.
1906. 941G84

9 colored plates of Scotch dress of various periods.

Keltic, J. S. History of the Scottish Highlands,
Highland Clans and Highland Regiments. 2 v.
1875. Ref. 941K19

Highland dress, v. 1, pp. 300-03. Illustrations include
colored plates of clan tartans and several wood-cuts showing
dress.

Page One Hundred Seventy-six

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Levati, Ambrogio. Costume des Habitans des lies
Britanniques. (In Ferrario, Giulio. Costume,
1815-29, Europe, v, 6. pp, 1-178.)

Ref. 391F37

Colored copperplate (plate 30) shows 5 Scotch costumes of
about 1820.

Logan, James. Scottish Gael: or, Celtic manners
as preserved among the Highlanders. 2 v, 1831,

941L83S2

" Dress of the ancient Celts and costume of the present
Gael," V. 1, pp. 217-72; table of clan tartans, Appendix,
V. 2, pp. 401-08.

Mclan, R. R. Gaelic Gatherings; or. The High-
landers at home, 1848. [reprinted 1900.]

914,1L83

21 colored plates of costume.

Mackintosh, J. Story of Scotland from the Earliest
Times to the Present Century, illustrated.
1899. 941M15

Milne, James. Gordon Highlanders, 1898.

355M65

Includes half-tones of Highland uniforms.

Sanderson, William. Scottish Life and Character.
1904, 914.1S21

See pp. 86-88; 130-34. 12 plates of costume.

Scottish Clans and their TaHans. 2d ed, 1892.

941S42

Colored plates of the tartans.

— Same. 8th ed. 1906.

Shoberl, Frederic. World in Miniature. England,
Scotland, and Ireland. Edited by W. H. Pyne.
4 V. 1827. Ref. 914.2S5o9

4 colored plates, in v. 4, of Scotch costume.

Stewart, David. Sketches of the Character, Man-
ners, and Present State of the Highlanders of
Scotland. 2 v. 1822, 355S84

" Highland garb," v. 1, pp. 75-80, 11.5-20.

Stuart, John S. S. The Costume of the Clans.
1892, R391S93

37 full-page plates, illustrating the history, antiquities,
and dress of the Highland clans.

Towry, M. H. Clanship aad the Clans. 1870.

929T75

" Highland garb and arms," pp. 12-16.

See also England
Serbia. See Balkan States

Shaicespearean Costume

Abbey, E. A. Drawings for Shakespeare: Midsum-
mer Night's Dream, King. Lear, King Richard IL
King John, Romeo and Juliet, King Richard III,
Hamlet, Othello. (In Harper's new monthly
magazine, vols. 91, 106, 107, 108 and 109.)

051H29

Bayard, Emile. Shakespeare's " As you Like It."
With 12 illustrations. 1887. R822.3S52Asi

Boocke, R. L. Shakespearian Costumes, 4 v,
J 889-1892. 822.3B669

Full-page wood-cuts, with color key. The library has
onIv4vols.: " All's well that ends well "; " Twelfth night ";
" Taming of the shrew " ; " Hamlet."

hoydell, J. and J. Boydell's Graphic Illustrations

of the Dramatic Works of Shakespeare, 1813,

Ref, 822,3B78G

Steel plates of characters in costume.

Brereton, Austin. Shakespearean Scenes and Char-
acters, 1886. Ref, 822,3B84

30 steel plates and 10 wood engravings.

Carter, Thomas. Stories from Snakespeare, n.d,

822,3S52Sto

16 full-page colored illustrations.

Crane, Walter. Shakespeare's " Merry Wives of
Windsor," in eight pen designs, 1894.

R822.3C89

Fitzgerald, Percy H. Shakespearean Representa-
tion, its Laws and Limits, 1908, 822,3Fo5

Gerdme, J. L. Scenes from Shakespeare. 1875.

R822.3G37

30 India proof engravings.

GrUtzner, E. Shakespeare's " King Henry IV,"
two parts. 1887. R822.3S52H4Gi

12 illustrations.

Lacy, T. H. Costume Plates for the " Merchant of
Venice." .^1862. R822,3L15

Linton, Sir. J. D. Shakespeare's " King Henry
VIII," 1892, R822.3S52H8LD

12 illustrations.

Shakespeare, William. Complete Works; rev, from
the original editions, with introductions and
notes by J, O. Halliwell and other eminent com-
mentators, 9 V. n.d. 822.3S52WR

Many steel engravings of actors in costume.

— Dramatic Works; rev. by G. Steevens. 6 v,
1802. Ref. 822.3S52Ds

Plates practically the same as in Boydell.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Seventy-seven

Shakespeare, William. Tragedy of Hamlet, Prince
of Denmark. 1897. 8^22.3S5^2Hac

12 full-page illustrations by H. C. Christy.

Shakespeare in Pictorial Art. 1916.

S22.3S25

Shakespeare's " Othello.'' Illustrated by Ludovic
Marchetti. .^895. 822.3So^20tu

Smirke, R., and others. Illustrations of Shake-
speare's Plays, n.d. R822.3S641

Fifty original designs by R. Smirke, T. Stothard, E. II.
Corbould, etc. Engraved on steel.

Stone, Melicent. The Bankside Costume Book for
Children. 1913. 391S87

Has 52 illustrations of Shakespearian men, women, and
dress accoutrements.

Wilde, Oscar. Truth of Masks. (In his Intentions
and the Soul of Man.) 1908. 828W67I

Essay on Shakespeare's interest in and use of costume.

Wingate, C. E. L. Shakespeare's Heroines on the
Stage. 1875. 822.3W76S

52 illustrations, half-tones

Shoes. See Foot-wear
SiAM. See India

South America

Carpenter, F. G. South America, social, industrial,
and political. 1900. 918C29s

7 plates (half-tones) of costumes.

Forrest, A. S. Tour through South America. 1913.

918F72

Marcoy, Paul. Journey across South America.
2 V. 1873. Ref. 918.oS13

Incidental notes on costumes. Many wood-cuts of native
and Spanish costumes.

Pritchard, H. V. H. Through the Heart of Pata-
gonia. 1902. 918.2P94

3 plates, in color and half-tone, showing Patagonian dress.

See also Indians of South America

Spain

Adams, W. H. Spain and its People. 1872.

9U.6A21

Many wood-cuts of Spanish types.

Bradford, William. Sketches of the Country, Char-
acter, and Costume in Portugal and Spain. 1812-
13. R914.6H79

Contains colored plates, including military costume.

Calvert, A. F. Spanish Arms and Armor. 1907.

399C16

3S0 half-tone illustrations of the collection in the Royal
Armory at Madrid.

— Valladolid, Oviedo, Segovia. 1908. 9U.6C16V

Plates 156-165 give peasant costumes of the province of
Segovia.

Cuendias, Manuel de. L'Espagne; Pittoresque,
Artistique, et Monumentalc. n.d. F914.6C96

Colored illustrations, and others.

Delineations of the Most Remarkable Costumes of the
Different Provinces of Spain. 1823. R391D35

Colored illustrations. No text.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Spain. (In her Book of Costume. 1847. pp.
288-96.) Ref. 391\V75

4 wood-cuts.

Fitz-GeraU, J. D. Rambles in Spain. 1910.

914.6F553

Shows several costumes of peasants.

Higgin, Louis. Spanish Life in Town and Country.
1902. 914.6H63

See " Costume " and " Dress " in Index. 7 half-tone
plates of costume.

Koppen, F. von. Spain and Portugal. (In his
Armies of Europe. 1890. pp. 64-66.) 355K77

Double colored plates and 2 text illustrations of uniforms.

Penjield, Edward. Spanish Sketches. 1911.

914.6P39

Colored plates.

Shoberl, Frederic. World in Miniature. Spain and
Portugal. 2 v. 1827. Ref. 914.6S55

27 colored engravings.

Watts, H. E. Christian Recovery of Spain. 1894.

946\V34

costume, especially of the 13th

Has illustrations show!
century.

1902. 914.6Vv'72

Williams, L. Land of the Dons.

13 plates showing national dress.

Sweden

Afbildningar af Svenska national drdkter. 1908.

R391A25

Colored plates.

Bossi, Luigi. Du costume de la Suede. (In Fer-
rario, G. Costume. 1815-29. Europe, v. 6.
pp. 232-59.) Ref. 391F37

2 copperplates (1 colored) of ancient Swedish costumes.

— Le Costume Ancien et Moderne des Scandinaves,
des Suedois, etc. 1827. *F914.8B74

19 plates.

Page One Hundred Seventy -eight

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Sweden. (In her Book of Costume. 1847.
pp. 349-0I.) Ref. 391W75

3 wood-cuts.

Holme, Charles. Peasant Art in Sweden, Lapland,
and Iceland. 1910. 709H74P

Illustrations in color and monotone.

Koppen, F. von. Sweden and Norway. (In his
Armies of Europe. 1890. pp. 61-63.) 355K77

Colored plates (11 figures, including 3 naval) of uniforms.

Steveni, W. B. Things Seen in Sweden. 1915.

914.8S84

About 21 of the .50 photographic reproductions are of
costume.

Thomas, W. W., Jr. Sweden and the Swedes.
1893. 914.8T46

8 plates and 3 text illustrations of ancient and modern
Swedish costumes.

Switzerland

Bridgens, Richard. Sketches Illustrative of the
Manners and Costumes of France, Switzerland,
and Italy. 1821. R391B851

Plates, with descriptive text.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Switzerland. (In her Book of Costume. 1847.
pp. 302-10.) Ref. 391W75

10 wood-cuts.

Gauter, Henri. Histoire du Service Militaire des
Regiments Suisses a la Solde de I'Angleterre,
de Naples, et de Rome. 1902. F356G21

10 colored plates, showing uniforms of Swiss mercenaries.

Koppen, F. von. Switzerland. (In his Armies of
Europe. 1890. pp. 67-68.) 3o5K77

Colored plates (7 figures) of uniforms.

Levati, Ambrogio. Costume Ancien et Moderne des
Helvetiens ou des Suisses. (In Ferrario, G.
Costume. 1815-29. Europe, v. 4. pp. 1-172.)

Ref. F391F37

16 colored copperplates of ancient and modern Swiss
costumes.

Schweizer Volkstracht; die Traehten der Cantone
Aaran, Appenzell, Unterwalden, Glarus, Schaff-
hausen, und Luzern, auf acht sehr .schonen
Chromo-Lithographen dargestellt. 1840.

R391S41

Story, A. T. Swiss Life in Town and Country.
1902. 914.94S88

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Yosy, A. Switzerland. With representations of the
dress and manners of the Swiss. 2 v. 1815.

Ref. 914.94Y65

50 colored engravings of costume.

Theatrical Costume

Aria, Mrs. E. Of Theatrical Dress. (In her
Costume; fanciful, historical and theatrical.
1906. pp. 236-59.) 391A69

2 colored plates and 7 half-tone illustrations.

Ferrario, Giulio. Costume des Italiens. (In his
Costume. 1815-29. Europe, v. 3., pt. 2.)

Ref. F391F37

Plates 120-22, p. 877, show costumes of actors and
dancers of Italy.

Galerie Dramatique. A Paris, chez Martinet. 1796-
1843. R391G15

50 copper engravings, in color.

Guillaumot, A. E. Costumes de I'Op^ra, Dix-
septieme au dix-huiti^me Si^cles. 1883.

RF391G95C

50 planches fac-simi'e & I'eau-forte en couleurs.

Harrison, Charles. Theatricals and Tableaux Vi-
vants for Amateurs. 1882. 793H31

92 illustrations of stage costume, historical and fancy
design.

Jullien, A. Histoire du Costume au Theatre depuis
les Origines du Theatre en France jusqu'a nos
Jours. 1880. F391J94

24 plates, partly colored.

Kobbe, Gustav. Opera Singers : a pictorial souvenir.
1904. 920K756

Photogravures. " A series of costume and other por-
traits of the grand opera singers best known to American
opera-goers of to-day."

Krehbiel, H. E. Chapters of Opera. 1908.

782K92

Of the 70 half-tone illustrations, 39 are from photographs
of opera singers in costume.

Lacy, T. H. Female Costumes, Historical, Na-
tional, Dramatic. 1865. R391L152C2

— Male Costumes, Historical, National, Dramatic.
1868. R391L152C1

Contains colored plates. No text.

Lumm, E. C. Twentieth Century Speaker. 1898.

808.5L95

Colored and half-toneplates of costumes'and poses.

Mackay, C. D. Costumes and Scenery for Amateurs.
1915. 793M153C

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Page One Hundred Seventy-nine

Mantzius, Karl. History of Theatrical Art. 5 v.
1903-09. 792M29

Plates of actors in costume.

Mohisson, F. Costumes of the Modern Stage.
1889-90. 391 M68

Colored plates.

Paul, Howard. The Stage and its Stars, Past and
Present. A gallery of dramatic illustration and
critical biographies of distinguished English and
American actors, from the time of Shakespeare
till to-day. 2 v. 1887.

128 photogravure portraits and scones from steel plates
and over 400 portraits in the text. Useful for costume.

Scott, Clement. Drama of Yesterday and To-day.
2 V. 1899. 792S42

Illustrations of actors in costume.

Seidl, Anton. Music of the Modern World. 2 v.
1895. Ref. 780S45

Many colored and half-tone plates of singers and operatic
characters in costume.

Stone, Milicent. The Bankside Costume Book for
Children. 1913. 391S87

Has 52 illustrations for representing historical plays,
especially those of Shakespeare.

Tibet

Crosby, 0. T. Thibet and Turkestan. 1905.

915.8C94

Several of the half-tone plates show costume.

Landor, A. H. Savage-. Tibet and Nepal, Painted
and Described. 1905. 915L26

Over 30 colored plates show costumes of Tibet and Nepal.

Sherring, C. A. Western Tibet and the British
Borderland. 1906. 915.1S55

See " Dress " in Index. Many half-tones in text show cos-
tume.

Shoberl, F. The World in Mmiature.— Tibet and
India beyond the Ganges. 1827. R915.1S559

12 colored plates of costumes.

Troubadours

Rowbotham, J. F. Troubadours and Courts of
Love. 1895. 914.2R87

" Dress of the troubadours," pp. 108-70. 7 outline cuts
of troubadour and minstrel costume.

Smith, J. H. Troubadours at Home. 2 v. 1899.

849S65

" Their attire," v. 1, pp. 168-69. See also " Costume "
in Index. A few wood-cuts of dress.

TxJNis. See Africa

Turkish Empire

Addison, C. G. Damascus and Palmyra. 2 v.
1838. ^ 915.6A22

10 colored plates of costume.

Allom, Thomas. Character and Costume in Turkey
and Italy, n.d. R914.96A44

10 lithographic plates of Turkish costume about the
year 1840.

Amicis, E. de. Constantinople. Tr. by Caroline
Tilton. 1878. 914.96A51

" Costume " [male], pp. 104-0.5; " Turkish women," pp.
20G-37.

Bell, G. L. The Desert and the Sown. 1907.

915.6B43

Colored frontispiece, by Sargent, of Bedouins and many
half-tones of the different races of Palestine.

Copping, Harold. The Gospel in the Old Testament.
A series of Pictures by Harold Copping. With
descriptive letterpress by H. C. G, Moule. 1908.

Ref. 221C78

24 illustrations in color.

Costume of Turkey. 1802.

R391C842.

Illustrated with colored engravings, with descriptions
in English and French.

Dupre, L. Voyage k Ath^nes et h Constantinople.
1825. Ref.

Colored plates of costumes of Constantinople, with text
in French.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Palestine and Syria. (In her Book of Costume.
1847. pp. 465-75.) Ref. 391W75

2 wood-cuts.

— Toilette in Turkey, Wallachia, etc. (In her
Book of Costume. 1847. pp. 374-87.)

7 wood-cuts.

Eyries, J. B. B. La Turquie, ou, Costume.-j, Moeurs,
et Usages des Turcs. (In his L'Angleterre. n.d.)

Ref. F391E98

Illustrated by colored plates.

Ferrario, Giulio. Costume des Peuples de I'Asie
Mineure. (In his Costume. 1815-29. Asie.
V. 3. pp. 263-348.) Ref. 391F37

Colored copperplates of costumes of Phrygia, Troy,
Lydia, Lycia, Cilicia, Pontus, Armenia, and other ancient
districts of Asia Minor.

Hamdi, Osman, bey. Les Costumes Populaires de
la Turquie en 1873. RF391H21

74 plates, illustrative of the costumes of people in Turkey
in Europe, the isiund.s of the Ottoman Empire, and in Turkey
in Asia.

Howe, Fisher. Oriental and Sacred Scenes in Greece,
Turkey, and Palestine. 1856. 915.6H85

Text contains several references to costume. 6 colored
plates of typical costume.

Page One Hundred Eighty

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Jessup, H. H. Syrian Home-life. 1874. 915.6J58

" Dress," pp. 28-3S. 3 wood-cuts.

— Women of the Arabs. 1873. 915.6J58W

Incidental notes on dress. A few wood-cuts of costumes,
male and female, of Palestine.

Kelman,J. The Holy Land. 1902. 915.6K29

Including colored plates of Syrian peasants and Arabs.

Koppen, F. von. Turkey and the States of the Bal-
kan Peninsula, (in his Armies of Europe. 1890.)

355K77

Pp. 73-75. Section of colored plates (5 figures) and 4 text
illustrations of uniforms.

Latimer, E. W. Russia and Turkey in the 19th
Century. 1895. 947L35

Several portraits showing Turkish uniforms.

Laurent, P. E. Recollections of a Classical Tour
through Various Parts of Greece, Turkey, and
Italy, in 1818 and 1819. 2 v. 1822.

Ref. 914L38

4 hand-colored plates,~showing Turkish women and girls,
etc.

Macbean, F. Sketches in Character and Costume
in Constantinople, Ionian Islands, etc. 1854.

R914.96M11

No text except short descriptions of the plates.

Magnetti, Carlo. Costume de I'Empire Ottoman.
(In Ferrario, Giulio. Costume. 1815-29. Eu-
rope. V. 1, pt. 3.) Ref. F391F37

Nearly 60 colored copperplates of costumes, including
the present Balkan States.

Mayer, Luigi. Views of the Ottoman Domains in
Europe, in Asia, and some of the Mediterranean
Islands. 1810. Ref. 915.6M46

Colored plates of costumes of the Turkish Empire, in-
cluding also Sicily, Tripoli, and the Balkan States.

Millingen, A. van. Constantinople; painted by
Goble. 1906. 949.GM655

Colored plates of Turkish costume.

Monroe, W. S. Turkey and the Turks. 1907.

949.6M753

Consult " Dress " in Index. 16 half-tones show costumes.

Neil, James. Everyday Life in the Holy Land.
1913. 915.6N39

Contains colored pictures.

Picturesque Representations of the Dress and Manners
of the Turks. Illustrated in 60 colored engravings,
with descriptions, n.d. Ref. 391P61

Turks, Albanians, Arabs, and Armenians.

Rogers, M. E. Domestic Life in Palestine. 1863.

915.6R72

See " Costume " in Index.

Shoberl, F. World in Miniature. Turkey. 6 v.
1827. Ref. 914.96S55

73 colored engravings, showing about 150 costumes of
the Empire.

Singleton, Esther. Turkey and the Balkan States,
as Described by Great Writers. 1908. 949.6S61

40 half-tone plates, many useful for costume.

Spry, TV. J. J. Life on the Bosphorus. 1895.

914.96S77

34 portraits of caliphs and sultans, and other plates of
costume.

Van Lennep, H. J. Oriental Album. Twenty
illustrations, in oil colors, of the people and
scenery of Turkey; with an explanatory and
descriptive text. 1862. Ref. 914.96V25

Folio lithograph plates, showing Turkish and Armenian
costumes.

Wilkie, Sir David. Sketches in Turkey, Syria, and
Egypt, 1840 and 1841. Drawn on stone by
Joseph Nash. 1843. Ref. 741W68

52 folio lithograplis, in monotone.

Tyrol. See Austria-Hungary; Switzerland

United States

Avery, E. M. History of the United States. 16 v.
1907. 973A95

Fully illustrated. Vol. 6 is good for colored illustrations
of Colonial costumes, military and civil.

Earle, Alice M. Child Life in Colonial Days. 1899.

390E12

Many half-tones, from photographs, of children's dress.

— Costume of Colonial Times. 1894. 391E12

Historv of Colonial Dress, pp. 3-42; Dictionarv of Terms,
pp. 45-264.

— Dress of the Colonists. (In her Home life in
Colonial Days. 1898. pp. 281-99.) 917.3E12

6 cuts of costumes.

— Two Centuries of Costume in America, 1620-
1820. 2 V. 1903. Ref. 391E12T

Many half-tone plates and wood-cuts of all kinds of
costume. List of illustrations, with descriptive notes.

Eggleston, Edward. Household History of the
United States and its People. 1889. 973E29

Colored plates of colonial costumes, uniforms of 1776-
1864, and Confederate uniforms. Many vignettes of cos-
tumes, 1492-1880.

Goodunn, M. W. Colonial Cavalier; or, Southern
Life before the Revolution. 1894. 917.5G65

" His dress," pp. 75-£
dress.

A few wood-cuts of Coloni;

Harvey, Fred. First Families of the Southwest.
1913. 970.6H34

32 colored plates of Indians, their pottery, basketry, etc.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Jennings, P. A Colored Man's Reminiscences of
James Madison. 1865. BM182J

Extra illustrations,
fashions in Madison's
Repository.

i-ith 2fi colored plates, showing
time. Plates from Ackermann's

McClellan, Elizabeth. Historic Dress in America,

1607-1800. With chapter on dress in the Spanish

and French settlements in Florida and Louisiana.

904. Ref. 391M13

383 illustrations, colored plates, half-tones, and wood-
cuts. Bibliography.

— Historic Dress- in America, 1800-1870. 1910.

R301M1^2H

Continuation of the above. Includes a bibliography.

Singleton, Esther. Costumes of Men. (In her

Social New York under the Georges. 190^2.

pp. 171-97.) 917.471SG1

6 half-tones of articles of dress.

— Dress of Women. (In Same. pp. 201-56.)

917.471S61

Several half-tones of apparel.

Wharton, A. II. Social Life in the Early Republic.
1902. 390W55S

Colored frontispiece, and many half-tone portraits, of
1790-1850.

United States. Military axd Naval CosTL'iiE

Archibald, J. F. L. Blue Shirt and Khaki. 1901.

355A67

Many half-tones of English and American soldiers.

Bennett, F. M. L^niforms and Corps Devices of the
Engineer Corps. (In his Steam Navy of the
United States. 1896. pp. 713-31.) 359B47S

Bolton, C. K. Private Soldier under Washington.
1902. 973.3B69

Uniforms, pp. 89-104, and double half-tone plates showing
uniforms and plate showing hunting shirt.

Eggleston, Edward. Household History of the
United States and its People. 1889. 973E29

2 colored plates of U. S. uniforms, 1776-1865, and 1
colored plate of Confederate uniforms, with several vignettes
of uniforms.

Logan, J. A. Volunteer Soldier of America. 1887.

355 L83

Colored frontispiece, and several wood-cuts of uniforms.

McClellan, Elizabeth. Uniforms in America, 1775-
1800. (In her Historic dress in America. 190-t.
pp. 340-77.) Ref. 391M12

Half-tones of Continental uniforms of army and navy.

Merritt, Wesley. Army of the United States. (In
Armies of To-day. 1893. pp. 1-55.) 355M57
4 cuts of uniforms of the period.

Page One Hundred Eighty-one

Nelson, H. L. Army of the United States. 1889.

Ref. 355N42

Same plates as in " U. S. army Q.-M. G. — Uniform of the
Army of the U. S."

Rodenbaugh, T. F. From Everglade to Canon with
the 2d Dragoons. 1836-75. 1875. 355R68

5 chromo-lithographs of cavalry uniforms, 1836-75, and
4 wood-cuts of French cavalrymen.

Smith, J. H. Historic Booke, to Keep in remem-
brance the meeting of the Honourable Artillery
Company of London and the Ancient and Honor-
able Artillery Company of the Massachusetts,
Boston, 1903. 1903. Ref. 358S65

Plates and cuts, showing uniforms of 17th-19th centuries.

Uniforms of the Army of the United States. (In
Standard Dictionary. Sup. 1903. p. 2187.)

Ref. 423F98SU

Colored plates, showing 27 uniforms of 1903.

United States Army. Quartermaster-general. Uni-
form of the Army of the United States, 1882.
1882. Ref. 355U58

Lithographed plates of uniforms. Several cuts of details.

United States Army. Uniform of the Army of the
United States. Illustrated from 1774 to 1889.
1890. Ref. 355U58U

44 colored plates. Key to plates and descriptive text.

United States Marine Corps. Uniform Regulations.
Together with uniform regulations common to
both U. S. Navy and Marine Corps. 1913.

R355U58MU

United States. Navy Dcpt. Regulations govern-
ing the uniform of commissioned officers, warrant
officers, and enlisted men of the Navy of the
United States. 1880. Ref. 355U58N

54 lithographed plates of uniforms.

Wagner, A. L. L'nited States Army and Navy,
from the era of the Revolution to the close of
the Spanish-American war. 1899.

Ref. 355W130U

Lithographs of military a; d naval uniforms, 1776-1899.

Walton, W. G., and others. Army and Navy of the

United States, from the period of the Revolution

to the present day, 12 pts. 1889-95.

Ref. 353.6W24

44 colored plates, mounted, with duplicate etchings, and
many other etchings and photogravures of military and naval
uniforms.

Page One Hundred Eighty-two

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Zoghaum, R. F. Across Country with a Cavalry
Column. And, With the Bluecoats on the
Border. (In his Horse, Foot, and Dragoons.
1888. pp. 100-17G.) 355Z85

?,5 plates and cuts of uniforms of the period.

Venice. See Italy

Wales

Bradley, A. G. Highways and Byways in North
Wales. Illustrated by J. Pennell and H. Thom-
son. 1898. 914.29B81

6 wood-cuts of costume.

Davies, D. John Vaughan and his Friends. 1897.

914.29D255

Several cuts of Welsh costume.

Egerton, M. M., Countess of Wilton. Toilette in
Wales. (In her Book of costume. 1847. pp.
190-91.) Ref. 391 W75

Rhys, John. Welsh People. 1900. 942.9R47

Dress [ancient], p. 251; [modern], 565-70. ^

Trevehjan, M. Glimpses of Welsh Life and Char-
acter. 1893. 914.29T81

See " Costume " and " Dress " in Index.

See also England
Weapon.s. See Araior

West Indies

Henderson, John. The West Indies. Painted by
A. S. Forrest. 1905. 917.29H49

About 30 of the colored plates show costume, chiefly cf
Jamaica.

Paton, W. A. Down the Islands. 1890. 917.29P31

Frequent references in text. Several illustratirra show
costumes.

See also Cuba; Porto Rico

Zanzibar

Lyne, R. N. Zanzibar in Contemporary Times.
1905. 9G7L98

2 half-tone plates of costume.

Rente, Emily. Memoirs of an Arabian Princess.
Tr. by L. Strachey. 1907. BR921S

Female fashions of Zanzibar, pp. 85-91. 6 plates of Zan-
zibar Arabs.

\RTISTS WHOSE WORK HAS BEARING ON PERIOD
FABRICS OR COSTUME

ARTISTS WHOSE WORK HAS BEARING ON PERIOD
FABRICS OR COSTUME

Greek and Roman Sculpture. (See University Prints, Students' Series A.)

Mosaic. Emperor Justinian and his suite. Byzantine, 6tli century, at Ravenna.

San Vitale.

ca. (circa) = about.

Italian Painting

Ambrogio da Predis (School of Milan), fl. 1482-
1506.

Bartolommeo Veneto (Venetian School), fl. 1505-
1555.

Bassano, L. da P. (Venetian School). 1557-1622.

Bissolo, F. (Venetian School). 1464-1528.

Botticelli, S. (Florentine School). 1444-1510.

Bronzino, A. (Florentine School), ca. 1502-1572.

Butinone, B. J. (School of Milan), ca. 1436-
1507.

Calisto Piazza da Lodi (School of Brescia), fl.
1521-1562.

Carnevale, Fra (School of Umbria and Perugia).
15th century.

Carpaccio, V. (Venetian School), ca. 1455- ca.
1525.

Cimabue (Florentine School), ca. 1240-1302.

Conti, Bernardino de' (School of Milan), fl.
1490-.=

Cossa, F. (School of Ferrara). ca. 1435-1480.

Crivelli, C. (Venetian School), ca. 1430-ca. 1493.

Domenico Veneziano (Florentine School), ca.
1410-1461.

Duccio di Buoninsegna (School of Siena), ca.
1260-1320.

Ghirlandajo, D. and pupils (Florentine School).
1452-1525.

Giotto and pupils (Florentine School). 1266-1337.

Giovanni di Paolo (School of Siena), ca. 1403-
1482.

Giovanni di Piamonte. fl. 15th century.

Giovenone, G. (School of Vercelli). ca. 1490-
1555.

Jacobello del Fiore (Venetian School), fl. 1400-
1439.

fl. = flourished.

Lorenzetti, A. and P. Follower of (School of Siena)
fl. 1323-1348-^. 1305-1348.

Mantegna, A. (School of Padua). 1431-1506.

Maratti, C. 1625-1713.

Masolino. (Florentine School.) 1384-ca. 1435.

Moroni, G. B. 1520-1578.

Palma Vecchio. Venetian SchcoL 1480-1528.

Parmigianino (School of Parma). 1504-1540.

Perugino, P. (Umbrian School). 1446-1523.

Pesello, G. (Florentine School). 1367-1446.

Piero di Cosimo (Florentine School). 1462-1521.

Pinturicchio, B. (Umbrian School). 1454-1513.

Pisanello. ca. 1397-1455.

Pulzone, S. ca. 1562-ca. 1588.

Roraanino, G. (School of Brescia), ca. 1485-1566.

Rotari, P. dei, 1707-ca. 1762.

Sellajo, J. del (Florentine School), ca. 1441-1493.

Signorelli, Luca (Umbro-Florentine School). 1441-
1523.

Sodoma, II (School of Vercelli). ca. 1477-1549.

Spinello, G. (Florentme School). 1387-1452.

Stefano da Zevio (School of Verona), ca. 1393-
1451.

Titian (Venetian School). 1477-1576.

Vasari, G. 1511-1574.

Veronese, P. (Venetian School). 1528-1588.

Verrocchio, A. (Florentine School). 143.5-1488.

Vivarini, A. (Venetian School), fl. 1444-1470.

Zuccaro, F. ca. 1543-1609.

Masters dei Cassoni.

Painting, Byzantine School.

Painting, Florentine School.

Painting, Italian School.

Painting, North Italian School.

Painting, Umbrian School. 16th century.

Painting, Venetian School. 16th century.

Painting, Venetian School.

Page One Hundred Eighty-six

LIST OF ARTISTS

Dutch Painting
Codde, P. 1610-1660.
Cornelisz, J. 1475-1560.
Cronenburch, A. van. 16th century.
Cuyp, J. G. 1575-1649.
Dou. G. 1613-1675.
Hals, F., the elder. 1580-4-1666.
Heist, B. van der. 1613-1670.
Honthorst, W. van. 1604-1666.
Jacobsz, L. 1494-1533.
Janssen, P. 2d half of 17th century.
Joest von Calcar, J. 1460-1519
Ketel, C. 1546-1616.
Keyser, T. de. 1596-1667 (1679?).
Mesdach, S. 1st half 17th century.
Metsu, G. 1630-1667.
Mierevelt, M. J. 1567-1641.
Molenaer, J. M. .?-1688.
Moreelse, P. 1571-1638.
Mostaert, J. 1474-1556.
Mytens, D., the elder. 1590-1658.
Palamadesz, A. 1601-1673.
Ravesteyn, A. van. 17th century.
Santvoort, D. D. 1610-1680.
Steen, J. ca. 1626-1679.
Ter Borch, G. 1617-1681.
Troost, C. 1697-1750.
Venne, A. van der. 1589-1662.
Vermeer van Delft, J. 1632-1675.
Verspronck, J. C. 1597-1662.
Voort, C. van der. 1576-1624.
Wilt, T. van der. 1659-1733.

Painting, Dutch.
Painting, Dutch.
Painting Dutch.
Painting, Dutch.

14th century.
15th century.
16th century.
17th century.

Flemish Painting
Bles, H. de. 1480-1550.
Blyenberch, A. 1566-1625.
Bouts, A. .M548.
Bouts, D. 1410-1475.
Campin, R., 1375-1444.
Champaigne, P. van. 1602-1674.
Claeissens, P., the elder. 1500-1576.
Cleve, J. van, the elder, ca. 1485-1540.
Coffermans, M. fl. 1549-1575.
Cristus, P. 1400(?)-1473.
David, G. 1450-1523.
Dyck, A. van. 1599-1641.

Eyck, J. van. ca. 1381-1440.

Francken, F., the younger. 1581-1642.

Geerarts, M., the younger. 1561-1635.

Goes, H. van der. .?-1482.

Heere, L. de. 1534-1584.

Isenbrant, A. Before 1510-1551.

Justus of Ghent ca. 1470?

Mabuse, J. van. 1470-ca. 1533.

Marmion, S. ca. 1425-1489.

Massys, Jan. 1509-1575.

Master of the Legend of St. Lucy, 15th century.

Master of the St. Ursula Legend. 15th century.

Memlinc, H. (Memling). ca. 1430(?)-1494.

Moro, A. 1512-1576.

Pourbus, F., the elder. 1541-1581 .

Pourbus, F., the younger. 1570-1622.

Pourbus, P., the younger. 1510-1584.

Roymerswale, M. van. 1497-1567.

Rubens, P. P. 1577-1640.

Somer, Paul van. 1570-1621.

Vos, C. de, the elder. 1585-1651.

Weyden, R., van der. 1400-1464.

Painting, Flemish. 16th century.

Painting, Flemish, of Brussels. 15th century.

German Painting

Bruyn, B., the elder. 1493-1655.

Bruyn, B., the younger, ca. 1530-ca. 1610.

Cranach, L., the elder. 1472-1553.

Dunwegge, H. and V. 1520-?

Master of the Life of the Virgin, fl. ca. 1460-1480.

Master of St. Bartholomew, ca. 1490-1510.

Master of St. Severin. .''-1515.

Multscher, H. ca. 1440-1467.

Neufchatel, N. ca. 1527-1590.

Pacher, M. 1430-1498.

Pleydenwurff. 1450-1494.

Ratgeb, J. 16th centiu'y.

Ring, L. ca. 1521-1583.

Roos, T. 1638-1698.

Scheits, M. 1640-1700.

Seisenegger, J. 1505-1567.

Wolgemut, M. 1434-1519.

Painting, German. 15th century. ^

Painting, German. 16th century.

Spanish Painting

Carreno, J. de M. 1614-1685.
Coello, A. S. 1513(?)-1590.
Gonzdlez, B. 1564-1627.

LIST OF ARTISTS

Page One Hundred Eighty-seven

Goya y Liicientes, F. J. de. 1746-1828.
Liano, F. de. 1556-1625.
Pantoja de la Cruz, J. 1551-1609.
Velasquez. 1599-1660.
Vermejo, B. fl. ca. 1490.
Zurbaran, F. de. 1598-1662.
Painting, Spanish. 15th century.
Painting, Spanish. 16th century.
Painting, Spanish. 17th century.
Painting, Hispano-Flemish. 1451.

Russian Painting
Ritt, A. 1766-1799.

French Painting
Bourdichon, J. 1457-1521.
Clouet, Frangois. 1500-1572.
Corneille de Lyon. ?-ca. 1574c
Coypel, C. A. 1694-1752.
David, L. 1748-1825.
Drouais, F. H. 1727-1775.
Dumont, J. 1701-1781.
Fantin-Latour. 1836-1904.
Favray, A. C. de. 1706-1789.
Fouquet, J. ca. 1415-ca. 1480.
Fragonard, J. H. 1732-1806.
Froment, N. 15th century.
Gandara, A. de la. 1862-.
Gerard, F. P. S. 1770-1837.
Greuze, J. B. 1725-1805.
Hilaire, J. B. 18th-19th century.
Huet, J. B. 1745-1811.
Ingres, J. A. D. 1780-1867.
Lancret, N. 1690-1743.
Largilliere, N. de. 1656-1746.
La Tour, M. Q. de. 1704-1788.
Le Brun, (Mme.) Elisabeth Louise Vig^e.
1842.

Lefebvre, Jules Joseph. 1834-.?
Lefevre, Robert. 1756-1830.
Liotard, Jean fitienne. 1702-1789.
Loo, C. A. van. 1705-1765.
Manet. Edouard. 1833-1883.
Mares, Pierre. 15th century.
Master of Moulins. 15th century.
Nattier, Jean Marc. 1685-1766.
Oudry, P. 16th century.
Pater, Jean Baptiste Joseph. 1695-1736.
Perreal, Jean. fl. 1483(r)-1528.
Pesne, Antoine. 1683-1757.
Prud'hon, Pierre Paul, 1758-182?

1755-

Quesnel, FranQois. ca. 1544-1619.

Renoir, Firmin Auguste. 1841-

Rigaud, Hyacinthe. 1659-1743.

Rioult, Louis Edouard. 1780-1855.

Thevenot, Arthur Frangois. 19th century.

Tocque, Louis. 1696-1772.

Vestier, Antoine. 1740-1824.

Watteau, Jean Antoine. 1684-1721.

Painting, French. 15th century.

Painting, French, of Amiens. 15th century.

Painting, French, of Amiens. 16th centuryc

English Painting.
Beechey, Sir W. 1753-1839,
Closterman, J. 1656-1713.
Corvus, J. 16th century.
Cotes, F. 1726-1770.
Gainsborough, T. 1727-1788.
Hogarth, W. 1697-1764.
Hoppner, J. 1758-1810.
Jervas, C. 1675-1739. (Irish Pnt.)
Lawrence, Sir Thomas. 1769-1830.
Raeburn, Sir Henry. 1756-1823.
Ramsay, Allan. 1713-1784.
Reynolds, Sir Joshua. 1723-1792.
Richardson, J., the elder. 1665-1745.
Romney, G. 1734-1802.
Sharpies, J., the elder, ca. 1750-1811.
Talfourd, F. 1815-1874.
Ward, E. M. 1816-1879.
Painting, English. 15th century.
Painting, English. 16th century.

American Painting
Badger, Joseph. 1708-1765.
Blackburn, J. B. 1700-1760.
Copley, J. S. 1737-1815.
Feke, R. 1724-1769.
Frothingham, J. 1786-1864.
Greenwood, J. 1729-1792.
Inman, H. 1801-1846.
Jarvis, J. W. 1780-1834.
Morse, S.F.B. 1791-1872.
Osgood, C. 18th-19th century,
Pratt, M. 1734-1805.
Smybert, J. 1684-1751.
Stuart, G. 1755-1828.
Sully, T. 1783-1872.
Trumbull, J. 1756-1843.
Waldo, S.L. 1783-1861.

From a colored cover design by Brunelleschi.

Courtesy of Har-per't

INDEX

INDEX

Accessories, 6

Acroi>olis, 103

Action, 10

Adam school, 97

Advertising, department store illustrated, 49

Advertising, magazine, half-tone, 57

Advertising, magazine, illustrated, 51

Advertising, magazine, pen and ink illustrated, 53

Advertisement, magazine illustrated, 46

Age, Golden, 103

Age of Pericles, 103

Air brush, illustration, 35

Alfred the Great, 106

Analogous harmony, 62

Anatomy, Preface, 13, 23

Animal arrangement, illustrated, 94

Anne of Brittany, costume illustrated, 112

Anne, Queen, 97

Anne, Queen, of England, 117

Applying color, 9, 70-71

Armorial dress, 110

Armorial dress, illustrated, 93, 109

Arms, 14

Arms, illustration, 21

Arthur, King, 106

Artists whose work has bearing in period fabrics or

costume, 131-133
Asp, Egyptian, 102

Austria, Anne of, Queen of France, 116
Avery, Claire, 54, 59

Background, 65

Back view, form illustrated, 1, 2, 3, 4

Balance, 65

Balance, of figure, 22

Barbier, George, 42, 54, 72

Barry, Countess du, 87, 117

Basquine, 113

Batchelder, Ernest A., 30

Baviere, de Isabeau, 95

Beardsley, Aubrey, 42

Beardsley, Aubrey, illustration, 54

Beer, 6

Ben Day, 31, 39, 40

Ben Day color, illustrated, 62

Ben Day, illustrated, 33, 49, 55

Ben Day, magazine, illustrated, 50

Betrothal of Saint Catherine, 95

Bibliography, 127-128

Binary colors, 61

Birch, 16

Bliaud, 108

Blocking in, 10

Boots, musketeer, 116

Box plaits, 38

Braie, 110

Bristol board, kid finish, 43

Bristol board, plate, 43

British or masculine costume illustrated, 119

Brittany, Anne of. 111, 112

Brummel, Beau, 78

Brunelleschi, 42, 54, 134

Brush, air, 32

Brush work, 52-53

Brush work, illustrated, 40, 45, 46, 53, 54

Brushes, 71

Brushes, for wash work, 48

Buddhism, 91

Bustle, 123

Buttons, illustration, 5

Byzantine influence, 107

Callot, Sceurs, 6

Carlyle, 45

Catalogue, ink work, illustrated, 46

Catalogue page, illustrated, 30, 31, 35

Catalogue, pattern work illustrated, 52

Catalogue, wash, 50

Catalogue work illustrated, 47, 51

Charlemagne, 107

Page One Hundred Ninety -two

INDEX

Charlemagne, daughters of, 94

Charles I, King of England, 86, 114

Charles II, King of England, 86, 116

Charles VI, 95

Charles X, 121, 122

Charles the Simple, 95

Chart, color, 65-66

Checks, illustrated, 41, 42

Chemise, 108

Cheruet, 6

Chicing, 10, 13

Chiffon, 37

ChiflFon, illustrated, 9

Children, 59

Children, illustrated, 13, 16

Children, lay-out illustrated, 41

Children, proportions, 16

Children, proportions illustrated, 17

Chinese influence, 97

Chinese ornament, 98

Chinese white, 37

Chiton, Doric, 103

Chiton, Greek, 103

Chiton, Ionic, 103

Chlamys, Greek, 103

Circle, construction, 36

Classic Period, Greek, 103

Clifford, Period Furnishings, 96

Cloak, Egj^ptian illustrated, 102

Cloaks, Egyptian, 101

Colbert, 97, 98

Collar, flat, 116

Cold color, 63

Collection, documents, 36

Collection, swipe ,36

Color, 61-71

Color, applying, 9, 70-71

Color, binary, 63

Color chart, 65-66

Color, complementary, 63

Color, Dr. Frank Crane, 67-70

Color, intensity or chroma, 62

Color, materials, 65, 70, 71

Color, normal, 63

Color, primaries, 63

Color scale, 63

Color schemes, 67

Color, significance, 66, 67

Color sketch, 6

Color, tempera, 9

Color, theory, 63

Color, tone, tint, shade, hue, 63

Color, value, 66

Color, warm, 63

Color, water, 9

Color, with wash, 50

Colors, tertiary, 63

Compass, 36

Cetnplementary colors, 63

Complementary harmony, 65

Composition, 30, 52, 53

Composition, reference books, 30

Construction, head illustrated, 17

Construction of figure illustrated, 15

Construction, toothpick, 22

Consulate, 121

Consulate fashions, illustrated, 120

Convention, 121

Coptic design, 91

Copying, 10, 37

Corset, illustrated, 39

Corsets, 114, 120, 122

Costume, Consulate, 120

Costume Design, Preface

Costume, Directoire, illustrated, 119

Costume, Egyptian, 101-102

Costume Egyptian, illustrated, 101-102

Costume, 18th century, illustrated, 117, 118, 119

Costume, First Empire, illustrated, 120

Costume, Gallic, illustrated, 105

Costume, Gallo-Roman, illustrated, 105

Costume, Greek, 103-104

Costume, Homeric, 103

Costume, illustration. Preface

Costume, Louis XIV, illustrated, 115

Costume, Louis XV, illustrated, 117, 118

Costume, Louis XVI, illustrated, 119

Costume, Ix)uis XVIII, illustrated, 121

Costume, Louis Philippe, illustrated, 121

Costume, masculine, British or English, 120

Costume, INIinoan or Mycenaean, 103

Costume, Pre-Hellenic, 103

Costume, Restoration, illustrated, 121

Costume, reference books, 127, 128

Costume, Roman, 104-105

Costume, Romantic Period, illustrated, 121

Costume, Watteau, illustrated, 117

Costumes, Restoration, illustrated, 121

Costumes, 2d Empire, illustrated, 122

Cotte, 110

INDEX

Page One Hundred Ninety -three

Crane, Dr. Frank, color, 67-70
Crayon, pencil, 48, 50, 51, 124
Crepe, illustrated, 5
Cromwell, Oliver, 116
Cromwcllian period, 86
Crown, red, 102
Crown, white, 102
Crusades, 95, 108

Dancing girls, Egyptian, 102
Dark Ages, Egyptian, 101
David, Jacques Louis, 87
Decorative detail illustrated, 44, 45
Decorative fashion work illustrated, 44, 45
Decorative half-tone, 56
Decorative p>en and ink, 40
Decorative pen and ink, illustrated, 53
Decorative treatment, 38
Department store advertising, 39
Design, adaptation illustrated, 91, 75, 76
Design, costume, 75-79
Design, fundamentals of, 65
Design, influences, 91
Design, primitive, 91
Design, sources, 76-78
.Design, symbolic significance, 91
Designers, 6

Detail, decorative, illustrated, 44, 45
Detail, illustrated, 42
Details, 5-6

Diana, Dutchess of Valentinois, 113
Directoire, 98, 120, 121
Directoire and Empire design, 98
Directoire costume, illustrated, 119
Directoire period, 97
Directorate, 87
Directory, 121, 122
Documents, 36, 86
Documents, use illustrated, 37-38
Dominant harmony, 62
Doric chitoU; 103
Dotted materials, 37
Double complementary harmony, 65
Doublet, 114
Dow, Arthur, 30, 52, 53
Drapery, 38
Drapery, illustrated, 85
Drawing, without models, 13-23
Drecoll, 6
Dress and History, 3d to 11th Century, 106-107

Dress, Consulate, 120

Dress, 18th century, 117-121

Dress, 18th century illustrated, 117, 118, 119

Dress, Egyptian, 92, 101, 102

Dress, 11th century, 108

Dress, First Empire illustrated, 120

Dress, 14th and 15th centuries illustrated, 110

Dress, loth century, 111

Dress, Greek, 92

Dress, Louis XIV, illustrated, 115

Dress, Louis XV, illustrated, 117, 118

Dress, Louis XVI, illustrated, 119

Dress, Louis XVIII, illustrated, 121

Dress, Louis Philippe, illustrated, 121

Dress, 19th century, 121

Dress, parti-colored 93, 109, 110,

Dress, Restoration illustrated, 121

Dress, Roman, 93, 104, 105

Dress, Romantic Period, illustrated, 121

Dress, second Empire, illustrated, 122

Dress, 16th century, 113, 114

Dress, 17th century, 116

Dress, 12th century, 108

Dress, 13th and 14th centuries, 110

Dress, Watteau, illustrated, 117

Drian, illustration. Frontispiece

Drian, 47, 54

Dryden, Helen, 16, 47, 54

Dryden, Helen, illustration, 16, 24

Du Maurier, George, 88

Dunlop, J. M., Preface, 14

Diirer, Albert, study of hands, 19

Durer, Albrecht, 38

Diirer, Albrecht, illustration, 85

Duval, Preface

Dyes, ancient, 92

Early fabrics and designs, 91

Early Renaissance costume, illustrated, 112

East India Company, 97

East, influence of, 91, 93

Eastern character, 97

Eastern design, 91

Editorial, magazine, 56

Editorial, magazine, illustrated, 44, 45

Editorial, magazine color, illustrated, 62

Editorial, newspaper, 46

Editorial, pen and ink, 38, 39

Egyptian costume, 101, 102

Egyptian costume illustrated, 92, 101, 102

Page One Hundred Ninety -four

INDEX

Egyptian dress, 92, 101, 102

Egyptian emblems, 102

Egyptian fabrics, 91, 92

Egyptian, Old Kingdom, 101

Egyptian symbols, 102

Eighteenth century, 86, 88

Eighteenth century, costume reference books, 116, 123

Eighteenth century costume illustrated, 117, 118, 119

Eighteenth century dress, 117-121

Eighteenth century, late, illustrated, 119

Eleventh century costume, illustrated, 107

Eleventh century dress, 108

Elizabeth, Queen of England, 97, 113

Elizabethan collar, 86

Elizabethan era, 85

Ellipse, constructing, 36

Ellipse, construction illustrated, 37

Emblems, Egyptian, 102

Embroidery, illustrated, 42

Embroidery, wash work, 38

Empire, 88, 122

Empire costume, 98

Empire, 1st, 123

Empire, 2d, 122

Empire style, 87

Enlarging, illustrated, 29

Ert6, 42, 47, 54

Ert6, illustrations, 44, 45

Etching, 54, 60

Fabric, classification, 96

Fabric, documents, reference to, 131-133

Faces, 16-18

Fans, 116

Feathers, realistic treatment, illustrated, 47

Feature cut illustrated, 50

Feet, 19

Fichu, 107

Fifteenth century, 84, 85

Fifteenth century dress. 111

Fifteenth century dress, illustrated, 110

Fifteent century reference books, 111

Figure, 13-23

Figured material, illustrated, 5

First Empire, 123

First Empire fashions illustrated, 120

Flowered, material, illustrated, 5

Flowered materials, 37

Fontange headdress, 116

Fontange headdress, illustrated, 115

Fontanges, Mile, de, 97, 116
Fourteenth century dress, 110
Fifteenth century, reference books. 111
Fourteenth and fifteenth century, dress illustrating,

110
Formal arrangement, illustrated, 94
Forms, 1-3
Forrester, Fern, 54
Francis, 6
Francis I, 95

Francis I, King of France, 113
Fragonard, 86
Franks, 107

Front view, form illustrated, 1, 2, 3, 4
Fur, 38

Furs, decorative illustrated, 45
Furs, realistic method illustrated, 47

Gainsborough, 86

Gallic costume illustrated, 105

Gallo-Roman costume illustrated, 105

Gathers, 38

Gathers, illustration, 5

Gauls, costume, 105, 106

Gauls, history and dress, 105, 106

Gauls, reference books, 106

George I, George II, and George III, 117

George III, 87

George IV, 121

Girdle, Greek, 103

Globes, Egyptian, 102

Gloves, 107

Gold thread, use of, 95

Golden Age, 103

Gorget, illustrated, 83

Gothic architecture, 84

Gothic tapestry, illustrated, 84

Greek Classic Period, 103

Greek costume, 103, 104

Greek costume, illustrated, 103, 104

Greek Doric dress illustrated, 92

Greek dress, 92

Greek girdle, 103

Greek history and dress, 103, 104

Greek Influence, 91

Greek Law, 6, 27, 28

Greek Law, illustrated, 27

Green, Elizabeth Shippen, 16

Greenaway, Kate, 16, 87

Greenaway, Kate, style illustrated, 87

INDEX

Page One Hundred Ninety-five

Hair, 18

Hair, illustration, 18

Half-tone, see Wash references.

Handkerchiefs, 107

Hands, Frontispiece, 8, 19

Hands, illustration, 7, 18, 19, 20

Harmonies, 62-63

Harmonies of difference, 65

Harmonies of likeness, 62

Harmony, 65

Hat, design illustrated, 75

Hats, 6

Hats, designing, 78, 79

Hats, illustration, 8, 24, 79

Hatton, Richard G., Preface

Head, 13, 14

Head, illustrated, 17

Heads, 16, 17

Heads, children, 16

Headdress, Fontange, 116

Headdress, Fontanges, illustrated, 115

Headdress, hennens, 110

Headdress, horned, 83

Heading, illustrated, 54

Headings, 42

Hem, illustrated, 27

Hennin, headdress, illustrated, 110

Hennins, 110

Henry II, 97

Henry VIII, 85

Henry VIII, King of England, 111

Heraldic forms, 95

Himation, Greek, 93, 103

Hispano-Moresque fabrics, 95

Historic costume, 101-123

History and dress, Gauls, 105-106

History and dress, Greek, 103-104

History, Roman, 104

History, 3d to 11th century, 106

History, 11th century, 107-108

History, 12th century, 108

History, 13th and 14th centuries, 108-110

History, 15th century, 110-111

History, 16th century, 111-113

History, 17th century, 114-116

History, 18th century, 117

Hogarth. 96

Holbein, Hans, 85

Holbein, Hans, illustration, 86

Hollar, 86

Homeric costume, 103
Hoop, 117
Horizontal lines, 65
Houppelande, 96, 110
Houppelande, illustrated, 84, 110
Hue, 61

Imagination, 77

" Impossibles," costume illustrated, 119

" Incroyables," costume illustrated, 119

" Incroyables," "uniniagineables," " merverilleuses'

and "impossibles," 121
Indian lawns, 122
Indian shawl, 98
Individuality, 43, 45, 52
Influences in design, 91
Ink, 42

Intensity, laws governing, 65
Interregnum, 116
Ionic chiton, 103
Italian 14th century costume illustrated, 93

Jabot, 116

Jackets, 123

Jacobean, 97

James I, 86

James I, King of England, 114

James II, King of England, 116

Japanese prints, 44, 47

Jeanne d'Arc, 96

Josephine, 121

Jumping, illustrated, 22

Kerchiefs, Egyptian, 102

Lace, illustrated, 42

Laces, 37-38

La Valliere, Louise, 97

Lawns, Indian, 122

Lawrence, 86

Laws for use of color, 65

Lay-out, illustrated, 41

Lay-out, finished, illustrated, 30-31, 35, 41, 47, 51

Lay-outs, 29, 30

Lay-outs, rough, illustrated, 29

Leaping, illustrated, 22

Legs, 14

Lepape, George, 42, 54, 80

Lettering, book on, 36

Line cut, see Pen and ink references.

Page One Hundred Ninety-six

INDEX

Lines, 45

Lord, Harriet, 34

Lotus, EgjTptian, 102

Louis Philippe, 121, 122

Louis Philippe costume illustrated, 121

Louis XI, 95

Louis XIII, King of France, 116

Louis XIV, 117

Louis XIV, King of France, 86, 96, 97, 116

Louis XIV costume illustrated, 115

Louis XV, 87, 97,98, 117

liouis XV, costume illustrated, 117, 118

I^uis XVI, 87, 97, 98, 117, 120

Louis XVI, costume illustrated, 118, 119

Louis XVI, period of, 98

Louis XVin, 121, 122

Louis X\TII, costume illustrated, 121

Lutz, E. G., Preface, 8

Magazine, advertising, 57

Magazine, advertising illustrated, 53

Magazine, editorial, 56

Magazine, editorial illustrated, 62

Magazine, pattern drawing, 57

Maintenon, Madame de, 97, 116

Mantles, 118

Margins, 6

Marie Antionette, 87, 98

Marie Antionette, strips, 98

Marie Louise, 121

Marshall, Preface

Martial and Armand, 6

Materials, black, 37

Materials, color, 65, 70, 71

Materials, for crayon pencil work, 51

Materials, wash, 48

McQuin, 47, 54

Medici, Catherine de, 97, 113

Medicis, Marie, 113

Memling, Hans, painting of, 95

Meredith, Owen, 88

*' Marveilleuses,"costume illustrated, 119

Method, catalogue wash method llustrated, 58

Method, decoration illustrated, 44, 45

Method of reproducing two colors, 68, 69

Method, realistic illustrated, 39

Method, realistic treatment illustrated, 40, 46

Method, textile designing, 54-59

Monochromatic harmony, 62

Montespan, Madame de, 97, 116

Monvel, Boutet de, 96, 111
Mosaic, Byzantine, 6th century, 131
Moyen age, 83
Munsell, A. IL, 61

Museum, Cooper Union, Coptic designs, 92
Museum, Metropolitan, as a source of design illus-
trated, 76
Museum, Metropolitan, Coptic room, 92
Museum, Metropolitan, period dolls, 88
Museum Metropolitan, tapestry from, 84
Musketeer boots, 116
Muslins, 122
Mycenaean costume, 103

Napoleon, 87, 98

NajKjleon Bonaparte, 121

Napoleon, Louis, 122

Napoleon III, 121, 122

Nattier, 86

Neilson, Kay, 42

Neutralization, 65

New empire, Egyptian, 101, 102

Ninth and tenth centuries costume illustrated, 107

Nineteenth century, 87, 88

Ninteenth century dress, 121, 123

Nocturne by Whistler as inspiration, 77

Normal color, 61

Ogival forms, 94

Old Kingdom, Egyptian, 101

One mode harmony, 62

Openings, 4

Oriental characteristics, 97

Oval, construction, 13, 14

Paenula, Roman, 104

Paintings, having bearing on costume, 131-133

Paintings, having bearing on fabrics, 131-133

Paisley shawl, 98

Palla, Roman, 104

Panier, 117

Paper, carbon, 32

Paper, frisket, 32

Paper, graphite, 32

Paquin, 6

Parasol, illustrated, 38

Parsons, Frank Alvah, 30

Parti-colored costume, 110

Parti-colored costume illustrated, 109

Parti-colored dress, 95

INDEX

Page One Hundred Ninety-seven

Parti-colored dress illustrated, 93

Pattern drawing, magazine, 57

Pattern drawing, newspaper, 39

Pattern work, magazine illustrated, 50

Pattern work, newspaper illustrated, 48

Pen and ink, 38-47

Pen and ink, black detail work illustrated, 40

Pen and ink, black material illustrated, 40

Pen and ink, catalogues, 40

Pen and ink, catalogue illustrated, 52

Pen and ink, decorative, 40

Pen and ink, decorative work illustrated, 53

Pen and ink, illustrated, 46

Pen and ink, magazine advertising illustrated, 53

Pen and ink, magazine work, 39-47

Pen and ink, pattern work illustrated, 40, 52

Pen, ruling, 36

Pens, 43

Pencil crayon, 48

Pencil, crayon, 50, 51

Peplum, 116

Period fabric design, 91-98

Period, how influenced, silhouette, 83-88

Periods in designing, 77, 78

Periods, painting as references, 131-133

Persian verdure, 96

Personal characteristics, 75

Personality, 79

Pericles, age of, 103

Perneb, 101

Petit Trianon, 120

Phrygean bonnet, 108

Pilgrims, 86

Plaids, 37

Plaids, illustrated, 41

Plaids, shepherd, 37

Plaids, shepherd's, illustrated, 42

Pleating, illustrated, 5

Plaits, box, 38

Plaits, side, 38

Pleats, Watteau, 118

Poiret, Paul, 6

Pompadour, Marchioness de, 87, 98, 117

Pompadour stripes, 98

Poor, Henry A., 30

Pre-Hellenic costume, 103

Premet, 4

Priests, 102

Primaries, colors, 61

Primitive design, 91

Problem, 45
Puritans, 86

Quaker, 86

Raeburn, 86

Red, crown, 102

Reducing, illustrated, 29

Reference books, Egyptian, 102

Reference books, Gauls, 106

Reference books, 3d to 11th century, 107

Reference books, 11th century, 108

Reference books, 12th century, 108

Reference books, 13th, 1 tth, and 15th centuries. 111

Reference books, 17th century, 116

Reference books, 18th century, 116, 123

Reference books, 19th century, 123

Regency, 117

Religious orders. 84

Rembrandt, 79

Renaissance, 85, 97

Renaissance costume, late, illustrated, 113, 114

Renaissance, early, costume illustrated, 112

Reproduction, two color process, 68, 69

Republic, French, 122

Restoration, 122

Restoration, costume illustrated, 121

Reta Sanger, illustrations, 13, 43, 62

Revolution, French, 98, 120

Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 86

Rhythm, 65

Richter, Preface

Roman costume, 104, 105

Roman costume illustrated, 104

Roman costume reference books, 105, 106

Roman dress, 93

Roman history, 104

Roman palla, 104

Roman poenula, 104

Roman toga, 104

Roman tunic, 104

Romantic period, 122

Romantic period, costume illustrated, 121

Romney, 86

Ross board, 31

Ross board, illustrated, 33

Royal gardens, 97

Rubens, 86

Ruff, 114

Running, illustrated, 22

Page One Hundred Ninety-eight

INDEX

Saint Catherine, betrothal of, 95

Scale, in design, 79

Scale of color, 61

Scroll motif, illustrated, 94

Sculpture, Greek and Roman, 131

Second Empire costumes, illustrated, 1?2

Senger, Reta, 13. 43, 54, 64

Seventeenth century, 86

Seventeenth century costume illustrated, 114

Seventeenth century dress, 116

Shade, 61

Shakers, 87

Shawl, 122

Shawl, Indian, 98

Shawl, Paisley, 98

Shawls, 123

Shepherd kings, 101

Shepherd plaid, 37

Shoes, 19, 22

Shoes, illustrated, 7, 18, 34, 35

Side plaits, 38

Significance, color, 66, 67

Silhouette, 34-36

Silhouette, fashion, 83

Silhouette, half-tone, illustrated, 43

Silhouette, illustrated, 36, 87

Silhouette, period illustrated, 86

Silhouette, value of, 83

Silks, oriental, 122

Silver print, 32

Sixteenth century, 85-86

Sixteenth century costume illustrated. 111, 112

Sixteenth centur j"^ costume reference books. 111

Sixteenth century dress, 113, 114

Sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, 97

Sketch, dressmaker's, 9

Sketch, manufacturer's, 9

Sketching, 10

Sketching, for manufacturer , 4

Sketching, garment, -5

Sketching, life, 7

Sketching, memory, 4

Slashed costumes, 113, 114

Sleeves, 88

Smith, Jessie Wilcox, 16

Soulie, 54, 124

Spatter work, 31,32

Spatte- work, illustrated, 33

Split complementary harmony, 65

Sport suit, 54

Spotting, 53

Squares, ruled, 32

Standing illustrated, 22

Steinmetz, 55

Steinmetz, E. M. G., illustration, 56, 60

Stipple, 34

Stipple, illustrated, 34

Stitching, 38

Stitching, illustration, 5

Stock, 116

Stockings, 110

Straps, Egyptian hanging, 102

Stripes, 37

Stripes, illustrated, 5, 41

Stripes, Marie Antoinette, 98

Stripes, Pompadour, 98

Surcot 110

Surcot, illustrated, 95, 109

Swastika, 91

Swipe collection, 36

Swipe collection, illustrated, 37, 38

Symbols, Egyptian, 102

Syrian weavers, 93

Tapestries, Gothic, 83, 84

Theatrical illustration, 6

Theory, color, 63

Third to eleventh century dress, 106, 107

Thirteenth and fourteenth century costume illus-
trated, 109

Thirteenth century dress, 110

Thirteenth century reference books, 111

Technique catalogue illustrated, 30, 31, 35, 41 42,
47,51,52,58

Technique, color, 9

Technique, crayon pencil, 50

Technique, crayon pencil illustrated, 7, 59, 124

Technique, decorating, 40

Technique, decorative, illustrated, 44, 45, 53

Technique, decorative half-tone illustrated, 56

Technique, detail, 37-38

Technique, detail, illustrated, 42

Technique, mechanical, see Ben Day, Air Brush,
Silver Print, Ross Board, etc.

Technique, pattern pen and ink, 40

Technique, pen and ink, 38-41

Technique, pencil, 3

Technique, realistic, illustrated, 35, 42, 47, 51

Technique, silhouette, 34-37

Technique, sketching, 3-10

INDEX

Page One Hundred Ninety-nine

Technique, stipple, 34

Technique, wash, 47-50

Tempera, show card colors, 71

Tertiary colors, 61

Textile designing, 54-57

Textile designing, illustrated, 55

Texture, of paper, 32

Textures, 37, 38

Tint, 61

Toga, Roman, 104

Tone, 61

Toothpick construction, 22

Toothpick construction, applied, 23

Torso, 14

Tracing, 32

Transferring, 32

Transaction, period, 97

Treatment, decorative, 38

Triad harmony, 65

Triangular erection, 101

Trianon, Petit, 120

Trimmings, 37

Trimmings, illustrated, 5

Trunk motive, illustrated, 94

Tucks, 38

Tucks, illustration, 5

Tulle, illustrated, 9

Tunic, Roman, 104

Twelfth century, costume illustrated, 109

Twelfth century, dress, 108

Underwear, illustrated, 52, 64

Valliere, Mile, de la, 116

Value, 62

Value, color, 66

Values, 52

Vanderpoel, illustration, 20, 21

Vanderpoel, J. H., Preface, 19
Van Dyke, 86
Valasquez, 86
Vertical lines, 75
Vertugale, 113
Vest, 116
Victoria, 121
Vignette, illustrated, 39
Vulture, Egyptian, 102

Waist, normal, 122

Waistcoat, 116

Walking, illustrated, 22

Warm color, 61

Wash, advertising, 47-48

Wash, catalogue, 48

Wash, decorative, 48, 50

Wash, editorial, 47

Wash, layout illustrated, 41

Wash, materials, 48

Wash, methods, 49-50

Wash, pattern, 47

Wash, pattern work, 48

Wash, realistic, 48

Wash, sketching, 48

Wash work, 47-50

Watteau, 86

Watteau costume, illustrated, 117

Wattean plait, 118

Watteau styles, 120

Weaving, 93

W^eeks, illustrated, 3

White, Chinese, 37

White, crown, 102

William IV, 121

William the Conqueror, 107

Wimple, illustrated, 83

Women, Egyptian, 102

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