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... V

Thf Kiliuburgh. i'ir o^i.-.<[. rural LuihtuH*

THE

RAVE N

AND

NOETH-WEST TOBKSHIBE

HIGHLANDS.

BEING A COMPLETE ACCOUNT
OP THE

HISTOBY, SCENEEY, AND ANTIQUITIES

OP THAT ROMANTIC DISTRICT.

H. SPEIGHT,

(JOHNNIE GRAY),
Author of "Through Aibbdale from Goolk to Malham," ktc.

ILLUSTRATED.

LONDON :
ELLIOT STOCK, 62, PATERN08TER ROW, E.C.

1892.

HARVARD C0LLE8E LIBRARY

MAR 281917

SUBSCRIPTION OF 1916

Printed by
g. f. sswell, 65, sunbbidge road, bradford, yorks.

PBEFACE.

|N Cox's Magna Britannia, published in 1731, the material for
which, says the title page, was " collected and composed by
an impartial Hand, 1 ' there is the following rather astonishing
notice of our district. "A small part of this Hundred
so-called [Craven] from the Cragginess of it, in the midst of which
stands Skipton, a Market-Town, from thence called Skipton-in-Craven.
The exact extent of it we nowhere find, though we meet with several
Towns in it ; but since we observe that the Rise of the River Are is in
Craven, and that the Earl of Albemarle's Lands in Craven were in
length Five Miles, we conclude that this part of the County extended
from the Bounds of the Wapentake of Claro to the village of Manlam,
not far from Settle, and had a proportionable Breadth." Such was the
curiously indefinite manner in which this " impartial hand " was
constrained to improve the public mind on the topography of Craven
little more than a century and a half ago ! A description of the least
known parts of Africa or Siberia could hardly have been more vague.

Still, if we except a few discursive references by some other early
writers, this was practically the sum and extent of public knowledge on
this romantic corner of Yorkshire until the Rev. Thomas Dunham
Whitaker, LL.D., F.S.A., minister of the chapel of Holme, near Whalley,
set about the preparation of a History of Craven at the close of the same
(last) century. His investigations, which were purely genealogical and
historical, resulted in a large and costly volume, which was completed
and published in 1805, and is now in the 3rd edition.

Meanwhile no separate and less expensive treatise upon this highly
interesting area has appeared, beyond two or three small local guide
books. That some such intermediate work, dealing not only with
historical subjects, but with every aspect of the country, would be useful

and acceptable has long seemed likely to the present writer. A long and
close familiarity with the district, — the home of his ancestors for many
centuries,— has therefore tempted him to produce a book, which will be
found in great measure to supplement the writings of Whitaker, while
at the same time an effort has been made to furnish in a chatty and
entertaining manner, an account of everything of interest relating to the
scenery, physical history, and antiquities of the area comprised. With
respect to prehistoric remains, although much has been written about the
cairns, barrows, earthworks, and cave-explorations in the district, yet
the author is only too conscious how much remains to be done in this
branch, and what investigations have yet to be made in order to arrive
at the full historic value, as well as the consequent influences
of the occupation of the country by Celt, Roman, Saxon, and
Dane.

So far as the scenic and physical aspects of the area are concerned,
the author believes this to be the first time in any topographical work
that an attempt has been made to deal with these and the civil and
ecclesiastical history simultaneously, by tracing upwards the origin of a
place, scientifically and historically, and recording as much as can be
gathered about it, within reasonable limits. The natural phenomena of
every important scene are explained as simply and concisely as possible,
while a very complete notice of the numerous caverns and pot-holes, or
ground-chasms, is given, as may be ascertained on turning to the index
(under " Caves ") at the end of the volume. A more or less extended
account has been given of the Craven and bordering parishes, while
the histories of such places as Bentham, Ingleton, Horton-in-Ribblesdale,
and Dent, which are but slightly touched on by Whitaker, have been
dealt with at length.

A reference to the Summary of Chapters, in conjunction with the
Map, will show the topographical direction and method of the two
divisions of the work. Commencing with Giggleswick and Settle, the
first part includes all the country extending westwards by Clapham,
Bentham, and Ingleton, to Kirkby Lonsdale ; the second part begins
with Skipton, and traces the country northwards to Langstrothdale and
Yore Head, and westwards to Dent and Sedbergh, concluding with the
environs of Sedbergh southwards to Kirkby Lonsdale, where the first part
terminates. The lower, and less romantic division of Craven, lying
chiefly to the south of the Craven Fault, has not been taken up.

It may be noted that the term Highlands, (which the writer is not
aware has ever previously been used to describe the mountainous parts
of Yorkshire), has been adopted in the title of the work, as it appears
both suitably and briefly descriptive of the character of the country
embraced, in contradistinction to the lower and less prominent parts of
the Deanery of Craven, south of the great Fault, above mentioned.

Almost every nook and corner of the district, it may again be observed,
has been familiar to the author from his earliest years, yet in spite of this
— a mere geographical acquaintance after all — very considerable research
and enquiry have been involved in portraying and supplementing the
historical associations of the places. So much so, indeed, that the author
regrets exceedingly the impossibility of making here more than a general
and grateful recognition of the valuable assistance which he has received
from numerous residents in the dales, both rendered to him personally
on the spot, and by material and facts furnished to him afterwards.
During the actual writing of the book many hundreds of letters have
been received, and there is scarcely a village or a hamlet in the area
dealt with where he is not indebted to one or other of its inhabitants for
information courteously supplied. On such occasions in the work where
the opportunity has offered acknowledgment of this help has been made.

For photographs and other views from which the engravings have
been taken, as well as for the loan of several blocks, the author begs to
express his indebtedness as follows : To Mr. A. Horner, Settle, for
photographs of Gigglesvvick (p. 67), Catterick Force (p. 95), Settle from
the West (p. 97), Entrance to the Victoria Cave (p. 120),Clapham(p. 145),
Gaping Gill Hole (p. 159), Norber Boulder (p. 170), Otterburn (p. 308),
Long Preston Church (p. 369), Penyghent froin Horton Station, (p. 391),
and Ling Gill (p. 405) ; to Thomas Brayshaw, Esq., Settle^ for blocks
of Settle in 1822 (p. 82), and Celtic Wall, near Smearside (p. 109) ; to
Mr. E. Handby, Settle, for photograph of Giggleswick Scais (p. 101) ;
to Robert D. Barnish, Esq., Blackburn, for photograph of Stainforth
Force (p. 135) ; to the Rev. F. W. Joy, M.A., F.S.A., Bentham Rectory,
for photographs of Bentham (p. 186) and Bentham Church Font (p. 193) ;
to Bryan Charles Waller, Esq., Masongill, for photograph of Over Hall
(p. 269) ; to Mr. R. L. Simpson, Kirkby Lonsdale, for photographs of
Devil's Bridge (p. 274), the Lune in Flood at Devil's Bridge (p. 275),
and Underley Hall (p. 289) ; to Mr. Lister, Malham, for photographs
of Malham Tarn (p. 293), Skirethorns Cave (p. 319), and Bordley

Hall (p. 322) ; to the Rev. C. J. Marsden, M.A., Gargrave Vicarage,
for block of Gargrave Church ; to Mr. J. B. Smithson, Leyburn, for
photographs of Kilnsey Crag (p. 330), Kettlewell (p. 833), and
Hubberholme Church (p. 340) ; to the Rev. A. Cross, M.A.,
Giggleswick School, for drawing of plan of Rathmell Barrows (p. 379) ;
to George Swift, Esq., B.A., Dent, for photographs of Dent (p. 424),
and Ibby Peril (p. 428). The views of Hardraw Scar (p. 414),
Garsdale (p. 419), and On the Rawthey, Sedbergh (p. 438), are from
photographs by Messrs. Frith. Many of these views represent out-of-
the-way places, and scenes but little known or not previously taken, and
the author is particularly indebted to those gentlemen who have been
at the trouble of obtaining the views specially for the work.

The superior and very beautiful full-page Frontispiece to the Large
Paper edition has been engraved by Messrs. Annan and Swan, London,
from an original photograph supplied by Mr. A. Horner, of Settle.

The author, in conclusion, may refer to the fact that as the work has
been published by subscription, he has pleasure in acknowledging
the liberal and influential support received from upwards of five
hundred subscribers, who have thus aided him in its publication. The
names of the subscribers have been printed at the end of the volume.

CONTENTS.

Jr RJSFACE ••• ... ••• ••• ••• ••> o

V/ONTENx» • • • ••• • • • •■• • • • • • • i

Summary op Chapters ... ... ... ... ... 8

List op Illustrations ... ... ... ... ... 18

Population Table ... ... ... ... ... 20

Population and Inn Licenses in Craven ... ... 21

Heights op Mountains... ... ... ... ... 22

Heights of Roads and Passes ... .... ... ... 23

Heights op Towns, Villages and Hamlets ... ... 24

Rainfall in North-west Yorkshire, &c. ... ... 25

Craven Militia during the French Wars ... ... 26

Landholders in a.d. 1086 ... ... ... ... 27

A List op the Inhabitants op Craven, and Bordering

Districts, Five Centuries Ago ... ... ... 29

A List of Craven Men, who fought at Flodden Field,

A. JJ. lulu ... ••• ... ... ... ... vl

Subscription List ... ... ... ... ... 451

Index op Surnames ... ... ... .. ... 462

General Index ... ... ... ... ... 465

SUMMARY OF CHAPTERS.

Part I. — Western Division.
CHAPTER I., Giggleswick 67

Introduction — Character of Craven and the North- Western Dales — Land of
mountain and cataract — A paradise of wild flowers and ferns — History and
Antiquities — Hotel and house accommodation — Craven diet — Longevity —
Unrivalled Air-Cures— Comparison with the Black Forest and Switzerland
— Giggleswick — An old British town — Domesday — Author's correspondence
with Continental authorities — A reference to German charters of the 8th
century, shewing the origin and meaning of Giggleswick — The lost Tarn
Ebbing and Flowing Well— Other English "tidal" wells— The British canoe
— First mention of the church — Some early charters — Old families —
Archdeacon Paley — AmuBing Anecdotes — Recent discoveries in the church
— " Strainge Parsons '' — Account of the Market Cross — The Grammar School
— The Museum and its contents.

CHAPTER II., Settle 81

Old Settle — The post-town of the parish — Unique sun-dial— Castleberg and its
watch-tower— Charter of market — Visits of old topographers — Coiners and
filers— Craven Bank— Mediaeval aspects of Settle — Saxon medal found within
the market-cross — The church — Old inns — Trade-tokens — Settle during the
Civil Wars -Letter from General Lambertr— The " Folly "—Proctor, the
sculptor — Some men of note — Longevity at Settle — Quality of the land—
Rainfall — Snow Castle — Modern institutions — Farms and gardens — Statistics
of trade.

CHAPTER III., Giggleswick, Stackhouse, Locks 95

Giggleswick— The Mid Craven Faults-Plague Stone— Bell Hill and Pagan Fires-
Settle Bridge and Penyghent— Stackhouse — Lovely Residence — Brayshaw
and Carr Families — Locks— Return Walk.

CHAPTER IV., Giggleswick Scars 100

Giggleswick Scars — The Tarn — Ancient Canoe — Staircase and Dangerous Caves —
Ebbing and Flowing Well — Its construction and action explained — A
laughable incident — An old custom — A legend of the Well — Miraculous
appearance of a lake — Feizor — Its curious name — Clapham family — Splendid
echoes — Scar top — The Schoolboys' Tower.

9
CHAPTER V., Around Smearside 107

An archaeological ramble — Ancient barrow with skeleton — Dead Man's Cave-
Remains of Celtic Walls— Smearside— Splendid prospect— Roman Watch-tower
— Roman Camp— Ice-travelled stones.

CHAPTER VI., Langcliffe. Catterick Glen 113

A trip to Catterick— Lan gel iff e Hall — The Dawsons — Memorials of Sir Isaac
Newton — Langclifl'e Village — Its former site — The Naked Woman Inn —
Winskill — "Lang Tom," the poet — The open Moor — Catterick Force and
Glen— Lovely Scenery.

CHAPTER VII., All about the Victoria Cave ... .... 118

Up in the hills again — " Samson's Toe " — The Scars and their primitive inhabitants
All about the Victoria Cave — Its treasures and what they tell — Its curious
discovery and history of the exploration — Night incident — A hyaena den —
Pre-glacial remains — Sketch of mammoth by p re-glacial man — Age of deposits
— Other local caves and discoveries — Attermire, not the outer water — Its
meaning explained — Historic deductions — Old lake — Rare plants— The cave
and its remains — Occupation of caves during recent war-panics — Roman Camp
at High Hill — Scaleber Force.

CHAPTER VIIL, Up Ribblesdale from Settle 128

Up the Ribble — The Settle and Carlisle railway — Some interesting features of its
construction — Particulars of viaducts and tunnels — Enormous difficulties —
Longest tunnels in England — Winskill Rock — Tremendous blast— Stainforth
— Its former importance— The old Knights of Stainforth — A horse's skull
found buried in Giggleswick church — Early property transactions — Stainforth
Force — A wild walk — The oldest rocks in Yorkshire — Scientific aspects of the
scenery — Glacial drift and boulders— Some remarkable examples.

CHAPTER IX., Lawkland and the Scar Caves 138

A lovely walk — Lanes of wild flowers — Lawkland — The Old Hall of the Inglebys
— The smallest church in Yorkshire — Cross Streets and the Roman highway —
Buckhaw Brow — Kelcowe Cave — Buckhaw Brow Cave — Cave Ha', an old bear
den — Interesting discoveries — Austwick Beck — A story of the coaching days.

CHAPTER X., Clapham 145

Charming Clapham — Former aspects— Flying Horse Shoe Hotel —Its meaning
explained — Ancient state of the manor — Old families — The Church and
Market Cross — Old Manor House— Sir Michael Faraday, son of a Clapham
blacksmith — Ingleborough Hall — Romantic cascades — Old coaching days.

10
CHAPTER XL, Ingleborough Cave and Gaping Gill ... 153

Clapdale Castle — The Ingleborough Cave — Its discovery and history — Description
of the interior — Age of the stalactites — Floods in the cave — Extent of the
Excavations — Measurements — Clapdale Pass and Cave — Trow Gill — An extinct
waterfall — Gaping Gill — Flood scene — Descent of the Gill — A wild prospect —
Ascent of Ingleborough.

CHAPTER XII., Austwick. The Nobber Boulders ... 161

Walk to Austwick — Peculiar examples of u glaciation " — Former importance cf
Austwick — Old landed families — Austwick Hall — The Church, Cross, kc. —
Some strange tales — Wild flowers — The Holly Fern here yet — Seventy kinds
of ferns collected — The famous Norber boulders — Their history and wonderful
aspects described — Nature's oldest cathedral — Effects of the Ice Age —
Ancient dried-up lakes — Robin Procter's Scar— Lovely view.

CHAPTER XIIL, Cave Hunting on Ingleborough ... 178

A land of caves, gulfs, and swallow-holes — Their origin and aspects scientifically
explained — Cave hunting on Ingleborough — A wild tram}) — Long Kin holes
and cave — Marble Pot — Juniper Gulf — Simon Fell Caves — Alum Pot — Ascent
of Simon Fell — The Druids — An ancient forest — Local place names.

CHAPTER XIV., Clapham to Ingleton 178

The old road from Clapham to Ingleton — Newby and Furness Abbey— Local
properties of the Abbey— Deer park at Ribblehead— Newby Cote— Ascent of
the Scars — Caves and pot-holes — A tremendous abyss— The Craven Fault —
Rontry Hole- Cold Cotes— The Tow Scar Fault— High Leys and Holly Plat
House— Glorious prospect— Yarlsber and the Danish Camp — Ease Gill Glen
and Waterfall — Beautiful scenery, geologically explained.

CHAPTER XV., Over the Moors to Bentham ... ... 18a

Walks between Clapham and Bentham — Newb} T Moor — Holland Moor — Mewith
Head— Clapham Wood Hall and the Faradays— The Glasites — Eeasden — Lumb
Falls — Queen of Fairies Chair — A tramp over Burn Moor — Four Stones, kc.

CHAPTER XVI., Bentham 185

Bentham — Roman and Saxon remains — The church in Domesday — Ancient
families — History of the manor - Gibson's Green and Dr. John Gibson —
Curious will — Stones fired by the Scots — A model church — Some rare relics —
Fine old bell — A watch-tower in the Wars of the Roses — Bentham Registers —
Burial in woollen — List of Rectors — Public institutions — Old Grammar
School — Fox, the Quaker, at Bentham — Trade tokens— Ancient market-cross —
The Black Hole — ** Tweed Dobbie " an I Barguest — Beautiful scenery — Four
Stones — Waterscale Wood and Cave.

CHAPTER XVIL, Walks about Bentham 201

Bentham Plague Stone — Mortality from the Plague — Interesting Justice's Warrant
to keep " watche and warde " on the roads — Cessation of the Parish Registers
in 1665 — Bentham Bridge — Three days in the Wenning — Wonderful instance
of re-animation — A walk into the next county — Robert Hall and Catherine
Parr — Lovely scenery — Wennington — Waterscale.

CHAPTER XVIIL, Ingleton 205

History of Ingleton — Another Tngleton — Both held by the house of Neville —
What does Ingleton mean ? — Celt and Roman— The Danish Conquest— The
Scandinavian Inglingians — Camp at Tarlsber — Ancient local fire customs —
Ingleton in Domesday — " White " towns — Ingleton in A.D. 1290 — Story of the
Manor — Mediaeval tenant rights— Customs in Elizabethan times — Ingleton
Hall and the Lowthers — Residence of a Lord High Chancellor — The poet
Gray at Ingleton — Twisleton and Ellerbeck disputes — The church — Old houses
— Local worthies.

CHAPTER XIX., Scientific Aspects op the Ingleton

Ov Hi SS -U* III ... • . . ... ... ... ... ... 21 v

Causes of the scenery about Ingleton — The various rock formations — The Ingleton
Coalfield — The great Craven Fault — Sub-divisions of the Fault — Their several
directions explained — Immensity of the downthrow— Analysis of the Ingleton
Faults— The age of the Craven Fault — Igneous Dykes — Effects of the Ice Age
at Ingleton— Glacial drift and boulders — An extraordinary fragment— Ancient
lake — Examples of ice-borne boulders.

CHAPTER XX., The Ingleton Glens and Waterfalls ... 22S

Gray, Southey, •' Barry Cornwall," and Adelaide Anne Procter at Ingleton — Turner,
the painter, at Weathercote Cave, &c. — Recent " discovery " of the Tngleton
glens — Formation of an Improvement Committee — Confusion in local
nomenclature — Place-names explained — The glens and scenery described —
Rare plants— Beautiful views— Scientific peculiarities of Thornton Force-
Raven Ray — An ancient lake— K eld Head- Beasley Glen— Geological aspects
—Back stone Gill Gorge— Glorious prospect — Silurian Slate quarries— Return
to Ingleton.

CHAPTER XXL, Ingleborough : Its Origin, History, and

oCfiNfillx ... ... ... ... ••• ••• ••• juQ&

Up Ingleborough — Its extent and character — The oldest mountain in Yorkshire —
Comparison with Snowdon— Physical structure explained— Sectional details
— Botanical aspects — List of native flowers and ferns— The creeping things —
Advent of Man — Ancient beacon — Celtic huts on the summit — Roman
occupation of Ingleborough — Analysis of the prospect—" Jubilee " fires.

12
CHAPTER XXIL, In Chapel-le-Dale 243

A remarkable dale — A Yorkshire Wonderland — Storra Caves — Erratic Boulders —
Ingleton " granite " — God's Bridge— The capital of Ingleton Fells- Interesting
little chapel — Hurtle and Gingle Pots— Weathercote Cave — Turner and Westell
— Douk Caves— Barefoot Wives' Hole— Mere Gill— Tatham Wife Hole— Up
Whernside — Extraordinary caverns — Gatekirk. Bruntscar, Homeshaw, and
Ivescar Caves — Scar Fall— Irruptions of the Scots— Discovery of coins — Rare
plants— The Ice Age in Yorkshire — Stone circle— Sepulchral cairns.

CHAPTER XXIII., Through Kingsdale to Dent 257

■Character of Kingsdale — Danish occupation — Keld Head — Braida Garth—
Greygarth Boulders — Various Pot-Holes — Rowten Cave ; a tremendous chasm
— Other" Pots" — Yordas Cave— Braida Garth " Pots "— Pre-historic cairn —
Kingsdale Head — Grand view — The Dent Fault, and glacial evidence.

CHAPTER XXIV., Between Ingleton and Kirkby

LiONSD ALE • • • ••• ••• ••• ■■• • • • ••• ^ O 4

Thorn ton-in-Lonsdale— Site of the village — The church — Ancient burial custom —
Masongill and the Wallers — Edmund Waller, the Court poet — " Barry
Cornwall " and Adelaide Anne Procter — Doyle family — Ireby — Over Hall, and
the Tathams — Leek Hall and its pleasant surroundings — Cowan Bridge and
the Brontes — Coaching days — Among the Leek Fell caves — Ease Gill — Roman
road— The Devil's Bridge — When was it built ?— Recent flood — Legend of
the Bridge.

CHAPTER XXV., In the Vale of Lune 278

From Ingleton to Burton — Hal steads— Lund Holme Spa- well — Burton-in-Lonsdale
— A Saxon fortress —Castle of the Mowbrays — The manor— Past and present
aspects of Burton —Low Field — Cants fie Id — Thurland Castle — Tunstall Church,
and Charlotte Bronte — Pretty village of Burrow — A pre-historic station —
Roman camp — Rauthmel's account— Roman military roads — Ancient bridge
— Remarkable discoveries — Description of camp — Recovery of a Roman
altar, &c. — Lunefield — Kirkby Lonsdale.

CHAPTER XXVI., Kirkby Lonsdale and Neighbourhood. 287

Earthworks and tumulus — Kirkby Lonsdale a Danish town — Past and present
aspects — Old inns — Origin of market — The parish church — Underley Hall —
The celebrated view from the churchyard — Lovely scenery — Caster ton Woods
— Old corn-mill — Casterton village and church — Roman highway.

Part II. — Eastern Division.
CHAPTER XXVII., Around Skipton 29a

Up Dales — Thorpe-sub-Montem — Threapland— Old houses— Threapl and GiJl and
Cave — Elbolton — Curious knoll-reefs — Knave Knoll Hole — Discovery of
human skeletons— Beautiful view— Walk to Barden— Simon Seat — Who was
Simon ? — Other Simon Hills and their pre-historic remains — The School of
Simon Druid — Ascent of Simon Seat — Marked stones - Beltane feasts — A
Sunset on Midsummer Day.

CHAPTER XXVIIL, Gargravb ... 300

Walk to Gargrave— Flasby Fell— Sharp Haw, a beacon during the Spanish Armada
— Red deer— A wonderful fox-hunt— Robert Story — His life at Gargrave —
Poetry and Politics — Removal to London— Gargrave Church — Description of
the village — The Meets of the Craven Hunt — Some private mansions.

CHAPTER XXIX., Relic Hunting in Malhamdale ... 305

Otterburn — Gomersall family— A local poet — Otterburn Hall — Monastic cell at
Otterburn— Drift hills— Post-glacial lake -Opening of pre-historic barrow —
Description of contents — Remains of ancient ring-dwellings — Traces of Open
Field cultivation — Ancient name of Ryeloaf Hill — Danish Camp — Roman
villa at Gargrave — Effect of anticlinals on landscape — Kirk by Malham —
Stocks and Ducking Stool — Last use of Ducking Stool in Craven — Calton,
and General Lambert — Calton in old times — Hanlith Hall — Hanlith Moor —
Ancient barrow — Unique glacial boulder — Malham.

CHAPTER XXX., Malham and the Moors 317

Physical and medical aspects of Malham — Family of Malham — Ancient homestead
— Inns — Unexplored caves — Skirethorns bone cave — Plants — Additions to-
British lichens — Birds of Malham Moor — Bordley— An old grange of the
Fountains monks — Bordley Hall and the Procters — Ancient chapel and burial
ground — Confiscation of estates for murder — Ancient stone circle — Walk to
Grassington — Pre-historic camp and tumuli.

CHAPTER XXXI., Round about Kilnsey 325

Malham to Kilnsey — Arncliffe Clowder — Dowkabottbm Cave — Its exploration and
interesting discoveries — A Celtic habitation — A baby's tomb-^-Roman coins —
Sleets cavern — Kilnsey Hall — Wade family — Manor of Kilnsey after the
Dissolution— Sheep- washings of the monks— Kilnsey Crag — Supposed ancient
coast line — Glacial aspects — What does Kilnsey mean?— Dr. Whitaker's
opinion— The Spurn Head KilnRea — Comparative deductions— Discovery of
coins — Coniston Church, the oldest in Craven — Tcnnant's Arms, Kilnsey —
Sulphur Spring — Glacial mounds— Great Scar Limestone round Kettlewell —
Lead mines.

14
CHAPTER XXXII., Kettlewell and Arncliffe 338

The farthest place in England from a railway — Aspects of Kettlewell — Memorable
flood — Ancient church — Curious font — Extinct wild animals in Craven —
Remains of early occupation by Man — Douk Cave — Ascent of Great Whern side
— By the " Slit " to Arncliffe — Arncliffe, supposed eagle's cliff — Another
meaning — The old church at Arncliffe.

CHAPTER XXXIII., At the Head of the Wharfe ... 338

Starbottom — Walk to Buckden — Romantic prospects — Beautiful wood scenery —
Situation of Buckden — The meaning of Buckden — Wild deer — Buckden Hall
— The Heber family — A memorable journey— The Stake Pass, a Roman road
— Hubberholme and its ancient church — Pleasing custom — Great snow-drifts
— Why does snow remain longer in Upper Wharf edale than elsewhere ? — Over
Birks Fell — Ascent of Buckden Pike — Walden — Aysgarth — Cray Gill —
Semer water — Langstrothdale and Chaucer — Population of the dale in A.D.
1379 and A.D. 1499 — Oughtershaw — Ray sg ill — Over the Horse Head into
Littondale— Wonderful prospect.

CHAPTER XXXIV., Littondale. A Wild Walk 346

Lonely Littondale — Grant of the valley to the Monks of Fountains — Halton Gill
— Chapel — Names of tenants at the Dissolution — Wild Plants — A walk between
Penyghent and Fountains Fell — Hesleden in A.D. 1540 — A Monks' courier —
Giants' Graves— Are they Danish ? — Tree-burials in Denmark and in Craven —
Scottish raids after Bannockburn — Rain scar, the summit of the English
watershed — Fountains Fell — Highest cart road in Yorkshire — A wild pass —
Winter experiences.

CHAPTER XXXV., Malham Moors and Fountains Pell... 352

Grant of Malham Water in A.D. 1150 — Some old houses on the moors — Capon
Hall, anciently Copmanhowe — Middle House and Oliver Cromwell — Other
ancient tenements — Local possessions of Fountains Abbey — Particulars of
them at the Dissolution — Malham Tarn — A vast prospect — Tarn House —
Experiences of planting — Malham Moors in the Ice Age — Tennant Gill — Up \

Fountains Fell — The View, &c. — Descent into Ribblesdale.

CHAPTER XXXVI., About Hellifield 360

Malham to Hellifield— Domesday record — Meaning of Hellifield — The Ings —

Anciently an arm of the sea — Discovery of whale bones — History of the manqr \

— Haraerton family — Hellifield Peel — Swinden — Disused coach-road — Old
corn -mill — Walk to Gargrave.

15
CHAPTER XXXVII., Long Preston 365

Old coach-road — Well-to-do aspects of Long Preston — The late Mr. John Thompson
— Saxon Church — Domesday record— The manor — History of the Parish
Church — Ancient rectory house — Description of interior of church — Interesting
memorials — Early font — Marks of fire — Cromwell House — The parish registers
— Plague at Long Preston — Local tradition — Churchwardens' accounts —
Ancient sun-dial — Beacon Coppy — Charity Hospital — School — Old mills —
Local possessions of the monks — Citation of charters— Lambert family —
Curious discovery of gold— Long Preston Peggy — The story of her adventures'
— Fragments of old ballad.

CHAPTER XXXVIII., Wigglesworth and Rathmell ... 375

Wigglesworth — Old Hall — Soke mill — Wigglesworth Tarn — Clark's Free School —
Spa Well — Longevity — Some local characters — Walk to Rathmell — Capelside
— Discovery of bronze celt, &c. — More ring-dwellings — Rathmell, a Celtic
station — The name explained — Recent use of Celtic numerals — Pre-historic
barrows — Rathmell church — The manor — Ancient mills— Tithe-barns— The
oldest Nonconformist College in England at Rathmell — Rev. Richard
Frank land — Remarkable flood scenes — Cleatops — Stone circle— Anley —
The late Mr. John Birkbeck.

CHAPTER XXXIX., Horton-in-Ribblesdale 383

Extent and situation of Horton parish — Meaning of Horton— Domesday notice —
Grants of lands to the monasteries — Dispute in 1224 between the Abbot of
Fountains and Jervaux — History of the manor— The church — Bone-house —
Curious discovery— Interior of church — Ancient glass— Supposed dedication
of church to Thomas a Beckett — Another version — Kent families manor-lords
of Horton — Dr. Holden— Ancient bells — Plague at Horton— The parish
registers— Interesting Terrier — Old Free School — Football Field.

CHAPTER XL., All about Penyghent 390

Flood -rakes on Penyghent — A k< smoking" beck — Douk Gill— Geological aspects
— A lovely nook — Thirl Pot — Mineral deposits — Thund Pot — An unexplored
rift— Ascent of Penyghent — Enormous snow-drifts — Sixty sheep perished —
Sequence of strata on Penyghent — Wild flowers and ferns — Prof. J. G. Baker,
F.R.S., and Yorkshire botany — Observations on some Penyghent plants — From
Penyghent to the moon — Ancient deer forest — Curious indictment — The
Penyghent Beagles — The prospect from Penyghent — Horton trout-hatchery.

CHAPTER XLL, On the Scars of the Upper Ribble ... 399

Horton Moor edge — Sell Gill chasm — Jackdaw Hole— Horton Tarn and its origin
— Turn Dub and the water from Alumn Pot— Birkwith farms — A lodge of the
monks— Park Fell — Birkwith Cave —Nanny Carr Hole.

16
CHAPTER XLIL, Moughton Fell and Alumn Pot ... 401

Beecroft Hall and the Wilsons— Moughton Fell -Erratic boulders— Interesting
geological sight— Moughton Fell Cave — Selside— Alumn or Helln Pot — A
stupendous chasm— What means Alumn or Allan? — The Celtic river Allan,
and local family Aleman. a suggested explanation— Immense size of the rift —
First descent of the Pot— Subsequent descents and explorations — Professor
Daw kin's description.

CHAPTER XLIIL, Among the Gills and Caves at

IklBBLEIIEAD • • • •«• •>« ••• ... ••• ... 4Ut)

Aspects at Ribblehead — Blea Moor an ancient snow-field — Glacial relics — Ling
Gill — Inns— Gearstones, old market — Source of the Kibble — Thorns Gill —
Eatnot Cave — Ling Gill, its geological character — A former powerful stream —
Linn or Ling Gill ? — The gill a cover for wolves, &c. — Citation of 13th century-
fine — Ancient bridge — Picturesque aspects of Ling Gill — Its vegetable interest
— List of species — The Arenaria gothica, a new British plant — Other
interesting botanical discoveries— Brow Gill Cave — Calf Hole — Ingman Lodge
— Batty Wife Hole — Ranscar Caves.

CHAPTER XLIV., Hawes, Yore Head, and Garsdale ... 412

Cam End — Boundary of the Mowbray Chase — Hawes — Meaning of Hawes — Upper
Yoredale, a forest of red deer — Hawes Chapel — Charter for market — Romantic
scenery — Hardraw and Simonstone — The scar waterfall — Geological peculiarities
— Meaning of Hardraw — Buttertubs Pass — Mossdale Gill — Disastrous flood —
Plant life — Hawes Junction — Around the Moorcock — Old pack-horse road —
Hellbeck Lunds — A seat of Danish pirates — Wild animals — The last wild boar
— Grizedale — Gift of the valley to Jervaux Abbey — A walk through Garsdale
— An old coach-road — Scientific character of the dale — Bow Fell Tarn—
Garsdale celebrities — No inn in Garsdale — Grand approach to Sedbergh.

CHAPTER XL V., Down Dentdale 420

lovely valley — Dent Head — Alpine railway — Monkey Beck — Floods and
avalanches — Lee Gate and the Quaker Chapel — Marble works? — Blake Gill —
Cowgill Chapel — Historical sketch — Danish occupation of Dentdale — El am
family — Mary Howitt and Dee-side- mill — Geology of Dentdale — Ibby Peril
and its ghost — Gibshall, and Hope on, hope ever — Gib shall tannery and the
Sedgwicks — Hell's Cauldron — Hackergill Cave — Deepdale.

17
CHAPTER XLVI., Dent 425

Disputed nomenclature of Dent — Meaning explained — An old Danish settlement
— Anciently Deneth — The Dentone of Domesday — Review of the manor —
Danish proprietors before the Conquest — The Fitz Hughs — Origin of clan of
Metcalfe— Dent "statesmen "—Old local industry—" Terrible knitters i' Dent"
— Aspects of old Dent — Singular incident — Old customs — Parish church —
Description of interior — Local longevity — Grammar School — The Sedgwick s
— Late Aid. Wm. Batty — Prof. Adam Sedgwick, LL.D. — Early history of the
Sedgwicks — Some local institutions — Accommodation at Dent.

CHAPTER XLVIL, Flood Scenes in Dentdale 433

Gill scenery near Dent — The raven in Dentdale — Recent remarkable flood —
Author's experiences — Lake scene from Dent churchyard — View of Colm Scar
and Hackergill — The Scene in Flintergill and High Gill — No market at Dent
— Adventure to Sedbergh — Renewal of storm — Aspects at Gate HouBe — A
break-down — Peculiar odour — View of Brackengill — A " cloud " cataract —
Sublime water-scene — Other floods — Fatal waterspout on Whernside.

CHAPTER XLVIIL, Sedbergh 437

Extent of Yorkshire — Physical characteristics at Sedbergh — Beautiful scenery —
Cautley 8pout and the Howgill Fells — Glorious view — Situation of the town
— Whitaker's interpretation of Sedbergh — Author's view — Sedbergh a Roman
outpost — Castle How — Saxon and Dane — Meaning of Sedbergh explained —
Local pronunciation— Position at the Conquest — Grant of manor to the
Staveleys — The Claphams — History of the manor — Assessment in 1584 —
Monastic possessions at Sedbergh — Appropriation of the church by Coverham
Abbey — Description of the church — Local charities — Grammar School — Some
men of note educated at the school — Brimhaw — Market cross — Stocks and
ducking-stool — Inns.

CHAPTER XLIX., On the Yorkshire Borderland ... 444

Ingmire Hall — Brigg Flatts Meeting House — The oldest but one Quaker
establishment in England — Historical sketch — Old coaching inn — Beckgide
Hall and Sir John Otway— Otway family — Middleton Hall and the Hiddletons
— Description of the building — Ancient chapel — Grimes Hill — Middleton
church — Hawkin Hall, and the poet Milton — Roman mile-stone, a rare relic —
Scenery of Lune — Barbon and the Shuttleworths — Aspects of the village —
The church — Up Barkindale to Dent — The Dent Fault.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Part I.
FULL PAGE VIEWS.

Giggleswick Church from Tehs Street

<f Giggles wick
/Catterick Force...

■4 OLAPHAM • • • • • • ...

* Ingleton

{

Frontispiece to
Large Paper edition.

Face page 67

145

205

OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

Settle in 1822

• • • •

... 82

Market Place, Settle

• • • • •

... 85

Settle prom the West ...

• • •■

... 97

Giggleswick Scars

• • • • •

... 101

Section of Ebbing and Flowing Well .

• • • •

... 108

Celtic Wall, near Smearside ...

• • • • •

... 109

Entrance to the Victoria Cave

• • • •

... 120

Stainforth Force

• • • •

... 135

Inglebborough from the Railway, neae

\ Lawkland

... 139

Gaping Gill Hole

• • • • «

.. 159

Norber Boulder

• • • • %

.. 170

Bentham

* m • • • i

.. 186

Bentham Church Font

• • • i

.. 193

Pecca Falls ...

• • • • «

.. 228

Backstone Gill

• *

.. 231

Weathercote Cave

m • •

.. 248

Over Hall, Ireby

• • • • •

.. 269

Devil's Bbidge, Kirkby Lonsdale

• • • • a

.. 274

The Lune in Flood at Devil's Bridge.

• • • • • i

.. 275

Underley Hall

• •• • • •

.. 289

Part II.

PULL PAGE VIEWS.

Malham Tarn
Kettlewell
Ling Gill
Dent

Face page 293
333
405
424

OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

Gargrave Church

••• ■•■ •••

... 303

Ottekbuhn

• • • «•• **■

... 308

Skirethorns Cave

• • • • • • ••• i

... 319

Bordley Hall

• • • • • » ••• i

... 322

Kilnsey Crag

*•• •«• • • * i

... 330

Hubberholme Church...

• •■ •■• ••• i

... 340

Long Preston Church...

• • • •■• ••• I

... 369

Plan op Bathmell Barrows

• • • • • • •••

... 379

Penyghent, prom Horton Station

... 391

Hardraw Scar

• •• • • • • • • <

.. 414

Garsdale

• • • •■• •*•

... 419

Ibby Peril, Dentdale...

• •• « t 1 • • •

... 423

On the Rawthey, Sedbergh

• • • * • • • • •

... 438

And Tail Pieces.

POPULATION TABLE.

Arranged in Registration Sub-Districts.

1881.

Aysgarth :

Askrigg 2,969

Hawes 2,513

Bedale :

Bedale 5,550

Mashara 2,721

Keighley :

Bingley 20,703

Haworth 6.873

Keighley 33,545

Leyburn :

Middleham 3,484

Leyburn 4.839

Pateley Bridge :

Ramsgill 936

Pateley Bridge 3,750

Thornthwaite 1,625

Dacre Banks 2,633

Reeth :

Muker 2,002

Reeth 2,715

Richmond :

Richmond 7,387

Catterick 2,946

Newsham 1,183

Aldbrough 1,242

Sedbergh :

Sedbergh 2,268

Garsdale 602

Dent 1,209

Settle :

Bentham 5,458

Settle 5,598

Long Preston 1,620

Kirkby Malham 762

Arncliffe 362

Skipton :

Kettlewell 854

Gargrave 2,117

Barnoldswick 7,290

Kildwick 8,923

Skipton 12,772

Addingham 3,262

Grassington 1.902

Wharfedale :

Horsforth 11,799

Fewston 2,927

Otley 15,616

Yeadon 16,363

1891.

2,576
1,170

5.504
2,624

21,418

8.023

39,789

3,085
4,550

796
8,225
1,350
2,390

1,215
2,002

6.755
3,034
1.036
1,810

3,874

535

1,131

5,437
5,763

1,798
753
320

672
2,238
7.979
9.859
13.601
3.139
1,461

11,904
2,692

18,828
17,832

Increase. Decrease.

... oyjj

343

715
1,150
6,244

106

165

178

121

688
936

829

105

2,212
1,469

The number of inhabited houses in the three Ridings is shown as follows :

Area. 1881. 1891.

East Riding 741,543 76,009 84,677

North Riding 1,261,793 68,966 73,366

West Riding 1,776,884 450,366 614,711

The total population of the three Ridings in 1881 and 1891 respectively was :

1881. 1891.

East Riding 365,011 399,412

North Riding 346,317 368,237

West Riding 2,175,293 2,441,164

399
289

140
525
275
243

787
713

632

• • •

147
132

67
78

182

123
441

235

POPULATION AND INN LICENSES IN CRAVEN.

The following table shews the number of inn and other licenses now

in force, to sell by retail, in the townships of the East Staincliffe Petty
Sessional Division, together with the population of each place and the
proportion of inhabitants to each license :

Ratio of
Population to

Increase or Licenses.

Township. Population. Decrease No. of Full. All kinds.

1891. from 1871 License*. One License to

to 1891. Full. All kinds. every

Addingham 2225 8861 5 6 445 370*8

Appletreewick 229 129d 3 3 76*8 76*8

Barnoldswick 4181 944i 6 8 688*5 516*3

Beamsley(2) 179 80d 1 1 179 179

Bolton Abbey 169 47i 1 1 169 169

Bradleys (Both) 542 55i 2 2 271 271

Brogden 120 15i 2 2 60 60

Broughton 165 38d 1 1 165 165

Buckden 239 94d 3 3 79*6 79*6

Burnsall 109 89d 1 1 109 109

Carleton 1644 34d 2 3 822 548

Conistone-with-Kilnsey ... 116 70d 2 2 58 58

Cononley 881 131d 3 4 2936 220*2

Cowling 1828 100d 2 2 914 914

Cracoe 91 44d 2 2 455 45*5

Draughton 204 26i 1 1 204 204

Embsay-with-Eastby 940 165d 3 5 818*8 188

Farnhill 655 165i 1 1 655 655

Qargrave 1296 5i 4 4 324 324

Glusburn 1942 373i 2 2 971 971

Grassington 480 350d 4 4 120 120

Hebden 209 153d 1 2 209 104-5

Hetton 102 22d l I 102 102

Kettlewell-with-Starbottom 317 191d 4 4 79*2 79*2

Kiidwick 145 16d 1 1 145 145

Linton 117 62d 2 2 585 58*5

Martons (Both) 270 33i 1 1 270 270

Salterforth 487 91 1 2 2 243*5 248*5

Silsden 3866 1152i 4 7 966*5 552-2

Skipton 10376 42981 32 50 324-2 207*3

Stirton-with-Thorlby 163 17d 1 1 163 163

Sutton ... ... 4 6

Thoraton-with-Earby 2770 717i 5 6 554 428*8

Threshfield 119 67d 1 1 119 119

HEIGHTS OF MOUNTAINS.

Compiled chiefly from the Ordnance Survey.

Abbrev.— Y., Yorkshire ; W., Westmoreland ; L., Lancashire. When not
otherwise specified the summits are in Yorkshire.

FEET

Addleborough 1564

Arant Haw (Sedbergh) ... 1989

Arnoliffe Clowder 1637

Attermire Scar 1600

Barbon Fell (W.) 1794

Barkin Pike (Y. and W.) ... 1718

Baugh or Bow Fell 2200

Beamsley Beacon 1341

Black Hill (Mai ham) 1636

Blea Moor ... ... ... 1753

Bow or Baugh Fell 2200

Bowland Enotts 1411

Brownsley Ridge ( Pateley Moor) 1 095

Buckden Gable (Ramsden Pike) 2302

Burn Moor 1595

Burnsall Fell 1661

Calf (Howgill Fells) (Y. & W.) 2220

Calvey (Swaledale) 1599

Cam Fell 1890

CaBterton Fell (W.) 1290

Oastleberg (Settle) 709

Cautley Crag 2150

Colm Scar 1580

Coniston Pie 1100

County Stone (Y., L. and W.)... 2150

Cracoe Fell 1650

Crag Hill (L. and W.) 2259

Croasdale Fell 1433

Cush Knott 1959

Deepdale Haw 1930

Dodd Fell 2189

Earl Seat 1474

Elbolton 1140

Embsay Crag 1200

Flashy Fell (Sharp Haw) ... 1150

Fountains Fell 2191

Giggleswick Scars 1025

Great Shunnor Fell 2351

Great Wham 1888

Great Whemside 2310

Greenfield Knott li»59

Greygarth 2250

Hawks wick Clowder 1346

Hawgill Pike (Dent) 1825

Hebden Moor 1250

Hellifield Haw 702

Helm Knott (Dent) 975

High Mark (Malham) 1746

High Pike (Deepdale) 1762

High Seat (Mallerstang) (W.) 2328

Howgill Fells (Calf) (Y. & W.) 2220

Hutton Roof (W.) 859

Ingleborough 2373

FEET

Inglehow fRyeloaf) 1794

Keasdon 1636

Kirkby Fell 1788

Knowe Fell 1700

Lady's Pillar 2257

Lamb Hill (Croasdale Fell) ... 1433

Leek Fell (L.) 1756

Little Fell (Hawes) 2186

Little Fell (Langstrothdale) ... 1985

Little Whemside 1984

Lovely Seat (Buttertubs Pass) 2213

Meugher 1887

MickleFell 2591

Middleton Fell (W.) 1999

Moughton Fell 1402

MukerEdge 2213

Nine Standards (Y. and W.) ... 2153

Norber 1330

Oughterehaw Side 1950

Park Fell (Ingleborough) ... 1836

Parson's Pulpit (Malham) ... 1765

Pendle Hill (L.) 1831

Penhill 1675

Penyghent 2273

Pikedaw (Malham) 1400

Pin Haw (Elslack Moor) ... 1200

Rise Hill, or Rysell 1825

Rogans Seat (Swaledale) ... 2204

Ryeloaf ... ' 1794

Rylstone Fell 1450

Shunnor Fell 2351

Simon Fell (Ingleborough) ... 2125

Simon Seat (Wharfedale) ... 1592

Simon Seat (Howgill s) (W.) ... 19l>5

Smearside 1195

Snaizeholme Fell 1779

Stag's Fell 1822

Standard of Burn Moor ... 1318

Sugar Loaf (Settle) 1200

Ten End (Hawes) 1919

Thorpe Fell 1661

Threshfield Moor 1150

Uldale Head (Sedbergh) ... 1553

Water Crag 2186

Weets (Malham) 1350

Wetherfell 2015

Whelpstone Crag 1246

Whemside 2414

WiddaleFell 2203

Wild Boar Fell (W.) 2323

Wold Fell 1829

Yarlside(W.) 2097

Yockenthwaite Moor 2109

THE TEN HIGHEST MOUNTAINS IN YORKSHIRE.

FBBT

FEET

Mickle Fell

• •

... 2591

Buckden Gable

... 2302

Whernside

• •

... 2414

Penyghent

... 2273

Ingleborough ...

• •

... 2373

Grey garth

... 2250

Great Shunnor Fell

• ••

... 2851

The Calf (Howgill Fells)

... 2220

Great Whernside

• • •

... 2810

Lovely Seat

... 2213

The highest mountain in England, Scafell Pike, 3210 ft. ; in Wales, Snowdon,
3571 ft. ; in Scotland, Ben Nevis, 4406 ft. ; in Ireland, Carrantuohill, 8414 ft.

HEIGHTS OF ROADS AND PASSES.

FEET

Fountains Fell, from Silverdale Head, cart-road ... ... ... 2180

Under the summit of Calf Fell, between Howgill and Bowderdale, cart-road

and bridle-path ... ... ... ... ... ... 2150

Mai ham to Horton over Fountains Fell, foot-path ... ... ... 2050

Waldendale Head, between West Burton and Starbottom, foot-path ... ? 2000

Horse Head, between Buckden and Halton Gill, cart-road

Firth Fell, between Buckden and Litton, cart-road

©odd Fell End, between Hawes and Ribblehead, cart-road

The Stake, between Buckden and Bainbridge, cart-road ...

Butter tubs, between Hawes and Muker, cart-road

Between Keld (Swaledale) and Kirkby Stephen, cart-road

Coverdale, between Middleham and Kettle well, cart-road

Scar Slit, between Kettle well and Arncliffe, foot-path ...

Between Keld and Barras by Tan Hill...

Haws End, between Hawes and Semerwater

Stockdale Pass, between Settle and Mai ham, bridle- path

Helwith Bridge by Dale Head to Litton

Kingsdale, between Ingleton and Dent

Hawes to Ribblehead by Newby Head...

Settle to Litton, or Halton Gill by Rainscar

Bowland Knotts road between Clapham and Slaidburn ...

Stainforth to Kilnsey by Mai ham Tarn

Malham to Kilnsey by Lee Gate

Horton -in- Ribblesdale to Beckermonds

Settle to Kirkby Malham by High Side

Hellbeck Lunds, between Kirkby Stephen and Hawes Junction

Chapel-le-Dale, between Ingleton and Ribblehead

Highway, between Sedbergh and Kirkby Stephen

Barkindale, between Barbon and Dent

Trough of Bolland ...

1970

1920

1838

1682

1646

1625

1620

1600

1550

1512

1435

1421

1391

1379

1840

1284

1280

1272

1189

1059

1048

1025

1000

HEIGHTS OF TOWNS, VILLAGES, AND HAMLETS.

FEET

Airton

... 563

Feizor

... 600

Litton

... 850

Arncliffe ...

... 700

Flasby

... 420

Long Preston

... 495

Askrigg

... 726

Gargrave ...

... 358

Masongill ...

... 540

Austwick ...

... 497

Giggles wick

... 487

Malham

... 637

Barbon

... 880

Gisburn

... 453

Newton

... 446

Beggarunonds

...1100

GrasBington

... 690

Otterburn ...

... 510

Bell Busk ...

... 500

Halton Gill

...1000

Oughtershaw

...1180

Bentham ...

... 842

Halton West

... 445

Rathmell ...

... 485

Bordley

...1260

Hawes

... 802

Rylstone ...

... 560

Buckden ...

... 788

Hellifield ...

... 468

Sedbergh ...

... 400

Burrow

... 150

Horton - in -Ribbles-

Selside

... 942

Burton-in-Lonsdale 298

dale ...

... 770

Settle

... 507

Oalton

... 625

Hubberholme

... 800

Skipton

... 362

Casterton ...

... 280

Ingle ton ...

... 437

Slaidburn ...

... 488

Chapel -le- Dale

... 800

Kettle well ...

... 780

Stack house

... 550

Clapham ...

... 610

Kilnsey

... 628

Stainforth ...

... 658

Cowan Bridge

... 284

Kirkby Lonsdale

... 200

Starbottom

... 748

Coniston-Cold

... 452

Eirkby Malham

... 612

Thornton - in - ]

Lons-

Cray

...1070

Kirkby Stephen

... 580

dale ...

... 480

Dent

... 472

Langcliffe ...

.. 623

Threshfield

.. 620

Draughton...

... 650

Lawkland ...

... 450

Tunstall ...

... 105

Embsav

... 630

Linton

... 620

WiggleBworth

... 500

The following table shews the altitude of the highest inhabited
houses, inns, villages, market-towns, and passenger-railway, in Yorkshire
and in England, respectively :

The highest inhabited house in England : FEET

Rumney's House, south of Alston, in Cumberland, on the Durham

DOivLoT ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• JlwOU

The highest inhabited house in Yorkshire :

Grouse House, near the source of the Cover, in the North Riding .. 1700

The highest inn in England :

The Cat and Fiddle, on Buxton Moors, in Cheshire... ... ... 1765

The highest inn in Yorkshire :

Tan Hill, between Barras and Keld, in the North Riding ... ... 1620

The highest village in England :

Coal Cleugh. West Allendale, Northumberland ... ... ... 1650

The highest village in Yorkshire :

Greenhow Hill, between Pate ley Bridge and Grassington ... ... 1441

The highest market- town in England :

Buxton, in Derbyshire ; — at the Palace Hotel ... ... ... 1044

The highest market-town in Yorkshire :

Hawes, in Wensleydale ; — at the Shambles... ... ... ... 850

The highest passenger-railway in England :

The South Durham and Lancastrian Union Railway, between Barras

aod Bowes, on Stainmoor ... ... ... ... ... 1978"

The foregoing summary of a discussion on the subject was furnished by the
writer to the Leeds Mercury Supplement for April 7th, 1888. There is, however,
an error in the original table with respect to the highest inn in Yorkshire, which
should be as given above, a correction which is owing to Prof. J. G. Baker, F.R.S.,
author of North Yorkshire, who pointed out the fact to the writer by letter, some
little time afterwards.

EAINFALL IN NORTH-WEST YORKSHIRE, &c.

Reproduced, by permission, from Symowfs " British Rainfall.

»»

Height

Stations. Authorities. above sea-level. Depth of rain in inches.

Feet 1889. 1890. 1891.

Arncliffe Ven. Archdeacon Boyd 734 4960 60 77 61*68

Aysgarth Vicarage Rev. F. W. Stow 644 30-03 3221 4330

Barden (Upper) Reser-
voir J. Watson, C.E 1250 -34 54 3701 86*50

Grange (Kents Bank

House) EliMilnes 20 3809 4381 43*87

Grimwith Reservoir... J. Watson, C.E 893 36*94 4517 4640

H a wes{ Hard raw Vicar-
age) Rev. R. Pinck 790 8608 39*77 47*32

Hawes (Backside,

Lunds) Rev. R. Pinck 1100 ... 6691 71*40

Hawes Junction The Meteor. Council ... 1135 55*49 64*56 78*13

Hornby Castle Col. Foster 100 3711 4242 41*10

Kirkby Lonsdale W.Harrison 209 3980 4330

Kirk by Lonsdale ( Cas-
te rton) R. S.Clarke 305 ... ... 55*86

Kirkby Stephen H. Paul Mason 574 29*25 37*77 50*75

Leyburn G. W. Wray 660 30*48 32*75 38*68

Levburn (Bolton Hall) E.Hall 420 2940 30*50 35*90

Malham Tarn Mr. Coulthard 1296 53*02 6456 61*85

Otterburn-in-Craven.. W. Gomersall 510 81*87 39*75 44*48

Oughtershaw Hall ... C. H. L. Woodd 1175 65*31 68*20 70-45

Pateley Bridget Trunla

Hill) J. Watson, C.E 1201 28*83 3702 36 18

Sedbergh(BriggFlatts) J. Handley 800 44 22 ... 61*23

(Thorns Hall)... Miss Sedgwick 400 43*74 5402 62*90

Settle (Ashfield Gar-
dens) T.Green, jun 483 34*40 40 41

Settle (The Terrace).. J. W. Shepherd 525 84*68 41*60 50*27

Skipton (Thorpe Fell) J. Watson, C.E 1661 7 24*44 86*86 35*78

ANNUAL RAINFALL AT OTHER STATIONS IN 1891.

A Comparative Table.

Inches.

Patrington (Spurn Head) 18*28

Goole 22*76

York (Phil. Soc Gardens) 28*76

Beverley (East Riding Asylum) 24*88

Malton (Norton) 26*50

Hull (Pearson Park) 26*55

Leeds (Museum) 25*16

Leeds (Wood house Moor) 27*26

Horsforth (Oliver Hill) 29*14

Bradford (The Exchange) 27*30

Bradford (Heaton Reservoir) 34*57

Queensbury 40*76

Halifax (Gibbet) 3745

Halifax (Thorpe)... 49*67

Sheffield (Shrewsbury Hospital) 32*83

Inches.
Greenwich Royal Observatory. 2538

London (Old Street, EC.) 25*90

Manchester (Piccadilly) 3079

Liverpool (Huskispon Station) 34*17

Blackstone Edge (Lenches) ... 50-60

Lancaster (Marton Street Yard) 44*61

Ulverston (Colton) 59*84

Hawkshead (Grizedale Hall)... 67*54

Ambleside (Skelwith Fold) ... 86*81

Elterwater, Westmoreland 98*48

ScawfellPike 110*50

Little Langdale (Fell Foot) ... 116*60

Borrowdale Vicarage 123*82

Seathwaite 14719

The Stye. Cumberland 166*40

Sheffield (Brincliffe Rise) 34*63 Ben Nevis Observatory 177*98

For particulars of Rainfall taken during the great flood on August 24th and
25th, 1891, § described on pp. 438 to 436, see Symons's British Rainfall for 1891,
pp. 123 to 125.

CRAVEN MILITIA DURING THE FRENCH WARS.

HEN the French War broke out in 1803, Lord Ribblesdale
raised the regiment known as the " Craven Legion," — the
Infantry numbering 1200 and the Cavalry 250, or together
1450 horse and foot.
In 1808 the Infantry were made Local Militia, and the Cavalry
designated the " Craven Yeomanry Cavalry." His Lordship was Colonel
Commandant of both regiments until the Local Militia was disbanded
in 1816. In 1817 his Lordship resigned the Colonelcy of the Cavalry to
his son, the late Lord Ribblesdale, who had held the rank of Lieutenant-
Colonel in the Local Militia, and a Captain in the Cavalry. The latter
nobleman continued commandant of the Cavalry until it was finally
disbanded in 1828.

In the Globe for Feb. 20th, 1809, the undermentioned appointments
are gazetted, as follows :

Military Promotions. — Commissions signed by the Lord-Lieutenants
of the West Riding of the County of York, City and County of
the City of York :

Craven Regiment of Local Militia.

Lord Ribblesdale to be Colonel. Dated Sept. 10th, 1809.
Richard Heber, Esq., to be Lieutenant-Colonel. Dated as above.
William Birtwhistle, Esq., to be Major. Dated as above.
Charles Ingleby, Esq., to be ditto. Dated as above.

The undermentioned to be Captain. Dated as above.

Thomas Peel, Esq., Lister Ellis, Esq., Richard Carr, Esq., Thomas
Cockshot, Esq., Robinson Chippendale, Esq., John Carr, Esq., William
Ellis, Esq., Henry Owen Cunliffe, Esq., Abraham Chamberlaine, Esq.,
Josias Robinson, Esq., Robert Willis, Esq., John Armistead, Esq.

The undermentioned to be Lieutenant. Dated as above.

Samuel Westerman, Gent., Thomas Clayton, Gent., Charles Tindal,
Gent., John Nightingale, Gent., William Moorhouse, Gent., Josiah
Cooper, Gent., David Hewitt, Gent., John Spenser, Gent., Christopher
Johnson, Gent., John Helston, Gent., Thomas Spenser, Gent., Thomas
Binns, Gent., Christopher Lancaster, Gent., Henry Tristram, Gent., Jphn
Howson, Gent.

The undermentioned to be Ensign. Dated as above.

William Leech, Gent., Henry Wittam, Gent., William Carlass, Gent.,
Christopher Simpson, Gent., Leonard Wilkinson, Gent.

To be Quarter-Master : Thomas Dawson, Gent. Dated as above.
To be Surgeon : Christopher Simpson. Dated as above.

LANDHOLDERS IN A.D. 1086.

Explanation of Domesday Book.

S throughout this work frequent reference is made to Domesday

Book it will be useful to explain here the origin and nature

of that celebrated Survey, which was made by command of

the Conqueror, about twenty years after his accession to the

English throne. The following particulars are abstracted from Modern

Domesday, or, " A Return of Owners of Land in England and Wales,'*

in 1873, published by order of the Government.

In the year 1085 serious apprehensions appear to have been entertained of an
invasion of the kingdom by the Danes, and the difficulty which the King then
experienced in putting the country into a satisfactory state of defence led him to
form the notion of having a general survey made of the whole kingdom, so, as Sir
Martin Wright observes, " to discover the quantity of every man's fee, and to fix
u his homage," or, in other words, to ascertain the quantity of land held by each
person, and the quota of military aid which he was bound to furnish In proportion
to the extent of his holding. .

To secure accuracy of results, Commissioners or King's Justiciaries (Legati
Regis) were appointed with ample powers to ascertain " upon the oath of the
" several Sheriffs, Lords of Manors, Presbyters, Reeves, Bailiffs, or Villans,
" according to the nature of the place, what was the name of the place, who held
" it in the time of the Confessor, who was the present holder, how many hides of
*' land there were in the manor, how many carrucates in demesne, how many
" homagers, how many villans, how many cotarii, how many servi, what freemen,
" how many tenants in socage, what quantity of wood, how much meadow and
" pasture, what mills and fish-ponds, how much added or taken away, what was
" the gross value in King Edward's time, what the present value, and how
" much each free-man or soc-man had or has." All this was to be estimated — 1st,
aa the estate was held in the time of the Confessor ; 2ndly, as it was bestowed by
the King himself ; and, 3rdly, as its value stood at the time of the survey.

All these particulars were ascertained for each county, the Commissioners
sending in Returns (breviates) for each county separately, and from these Returns
Domesday Book, or the General Register for the whole kingdom, was compiled.

It will be seen, therefore, that the object of the Conqueror's survey was to
ascertain the amount of military service and other assistance upon which he could
depend ; and that for this purpose he Instituted an inquiry of a very searching and
inquisitorial character into the nature and extent of the landed possessions of his
subjects, sending special Commissioners into every locality, with power to summon
the inhabitants and compel them to make a full disclosure of their property on
oath.

Notwithstanding, however, these stringent measures for insuring accuracy, there
is no doubt that the Commissioners did not always obtain or furnish correct
information, and that sometimes, as in the case of the present Return, the

statements of what we should now designate as the " Gross Estimated Rental/ 1
and the " Estimated Extent," are not altogether reliable. Ingulph, the historian
of Croylaud, in referring to the survey of the possessions of that abbey, expressly
says, •' Isti " (taxatores) " penes nostrum monaBteriurii ben e vol i et amantes non ad
" terum pretium nee ad verum spatium nostrum monasterium librabant,
" misericorditer praecaventes in futurum exactionibus et aliis oneribus, piisima
" nobis benevolentia providentes." — Oxford edition, p. 79.

With respect to the result of this inquiry, so far as it discloses the number of
landowners existing at that time, it must be observed that although the Domesday
Book may be considered as a fair record of the number of persons having a direct
interest in land, it is almost impossible, owing to the different designations under
which they are classified, to distinguish those who may properly be considered as
owners from those who were in the possession of land as mere occupiers only.

The following estimate, which is extracted from the work of Sir H. Ellis, may
perhaps be taken as showing proximately the number of persons who can properly
be regarded as having claim to be considered as holders of land upon some legally
recognized tenure : —

Tenants in capite, or persons holding directly from the Crown 1,400

Subfeudatarii, or under-tenants holding their estates from some mesne Lord 7,871
Liberi homines, or freeholders under the Lord of a manor, usually by

military service 12,400

Sochemanni or Socmen, holding on some fixed and determined rent

dCi VlUC ■•■ ••• ••• ■•■ ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• *iO|vi a

Homines, or feudatory tenants holding on homage 1,800

Cotarii and Coscets, or cottagers holding small parcels of land 7,000

Preebyteri, or clergy 1,000

Radmanni, a species of tenants in socage 870

Milites, or persons holding under mesne Lords in respect of military service 140

Aloarii, or absolute hereditary owners 12

Other owners, viz., Angli and Anglici, Beures or Coliberti, Censarii or

vyeiiBoreSj etc. •>. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... «io

Total of recorded landholders 54,818

The Burgenses, or Burgesses, who were returned as 7,968, are not included in
the above list, as it is impossible to distinguish those who held lands in their
individual from those who held in a corporate capacity, and many of them were
evidently not owners in any sense of the term.

Moreover the Villeins, of whom there were 108,407, are omitted, because it is
quite certain that, when they occupied small portions of land, they did so on
sufferance only. In fact they were regarded as mere chattels, which could be
bought or sold, and they were not allowed by law to acquire any property, either
in land or in goods.

It should be added that the present counties of Northumberland, Cumberland,
Westmoreland, and Durham were not included in the survey.

A LIST OF THE INHABITANTS

OF CRAYEN AND BORDERING DISTRICTS,

FIVE CENTURIES AGO ;

Being the Poll Tax Returns of the Wapentakes of Staincliffe
and ewecross, 2nd rlchard ii., (a.d. 1379.)

{Reproduced, by permission, from the" Yorkshire Archaeological and Topographical

Journal" transcribed from the original Rolls).

HIS famous Tax, which was the cause of an ill-starred revolt,
was framed and levied on the accession of King Richard II.,
as a means of raising funds to re-furnish the Treasury coffers,
which had been emptied on French battlefields, and to maintain Calais
and other maritime towns of Prance, then in the possession of England.
It was in the form of a graduated poll-tax, ranging from 10 marks, at
which the Duke of Lancaster was charged, down to 4d., on all lay persons
above the age of 16 years, notorious mendicants excepted. The clergy
were separately taxed. All married couples were charged at a single rate.
These ancient Rolls are especially valuable, as they exhibit in great
measure the state of society at the time ; who were the Knights and
Esquires ; who the merchants, artificers, &c, and what the relative size
and importance of the villages comprised. From these simple lists we
gather the number and names of the married and unmarried inhabitants,
what their degree and avocation, although these are not always stated.
The same rank or trade is, moreover, not always charged alike, which
must have been regulated by the income or standing of the individual.
Thus, an Esquire was usually rated at 20s., but sometimes at 6s. 8d., and
even 3s. 4d. Farmers of manors and granges were charged 2s. ; trades-
men and artificers commonly 6d., but occasionally Is. ; innkeepers, 2s.
and Is. ; while the great mass of the people, who were engaged in
agriculture, paid a groat, or 4d. Entries of the same trade are often
described under different names, e.g., a smith is sometimes a ?nareschal y
ferour, or faber ; a tailor, cissor, tailliour, or taliar ; a butcher, bocher,
flesher, carnifex, or fleshetver ; a grocer, spicer ; a joiner, sagher ; a
shoemaker, sutor ; a mason, cimentor ; a builder or waller, donber or
dauber ; a thatcher, theker ; a weaver, textor or webster ; a cloth-fuller,

fullo or walker ; a dyer, tinctor or lystar ; a merchant, mercator ; a peddler
pedder. One avocation (under Arncliffe*) is Emptor lanarum. This
means a stapler or dealer in wool, and the person so taxed must have
been, from the amount levied, — 4s, 4d., — in a large way of business. He
probably bought the wool from the monks of Fountains and Bolton
Abbeys, whose extensive flocks grazed on Fountains Fell and the adjoining
moors. Other occupations, such as hosteler, herbeiour, miller, diker,
slater, nayler, glasier, &c, are obvious and self-explanatory.

The places are arranged alphabetically, and according to the modem

spelling of them.

Ux is short for uxor, meaning wife.

WAPENTACHIUM DE STAYNCLYFF.

Ayrbton* (Aibton).

Adyngham (Addingham).

Robertas de Lede & vx .
Thomas de Newland & vx
Johannes Alius Roberti & vx
Ricardus de Midilton & vx
Johannes Dawson & vx .
Thomas de Warlay & vx .
Henricus de Caluerlay & vx
Adam Alius Ricardi & vx.
Johannes filiuB Willelmi & vx
Willelmus Batemanson & vx
Ricardus Bobertson («fc; but

read " Robertson "?) & vx
Willelmus films Robert! & vx
Robertas Webstre & vx .
WillelmuB Dykson Sc vx .
Willelmus de Radclyff' & vx
Willelmus de Elom & vx.
Jacobus del Stede & vx .
Thomas de Gyldesbergh' & vx
Johannes Robertson & vx
Johannes Herdwyk' & vx
Thomas del Qrene & vx .
Willelmus Manne, Jfttlfc, & vx
Thomas Wode & vx
Johannes filius Johannis de

Hardwyk & vx .
Robertas Yong & vx
Willelmus Wodmanne & vx
Ricardus Colynson & vx .
Willelmus de Crosby & vx
Robertas Daudson & vx .

Suraina— ix.#. x.<2.

• • • • 3

inj.a.
iiij.d.

• • • j

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• • » m

nil. a.

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• • 3

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• • • • «

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• • • «

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• • • • «

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nij.a.

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Johannes de Preston senior

& vx
Johannes del Myre, Theker\ &

Vi .....

Johannes de Preston junior &

vx ....
Johannes filius Roberti & vx
Ricardus Porter & vx
Johannes de Scothorp & vx
Isabella vx Thome .
Willelmus Gose & vx
Adam filius Willelmi & vx
Arnaldus de Ayreton & vx
Robertas Hynt & vx
Agnes vx Johannis Spenser
Johannes de Ayreton & vx
Johannes filius Willelmi & vx
Johannes filius Thome & vx
Johannes Smyth', Faber\ & vx
Johannes Wyndill' & vx .
SeruienV — Willelmus Porter
Emma Fox
Anabella Grafdog' .
Cicilia de Thornton .

Summa — vij.*. id.

xij.rf.

• • • • *

mj.tf.

• • • • 3

nij. a.
nij .a.

• •• » *

ni].rf.
uij .a.

• • • • «

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• • • 3

111J.0.
\i\j.d.
mj.tf.
liij.a.

• ft ft* m

un.d.

• ft • ft 3

Hij.rt.

nn.rf.

mj.fl.

yj.d.

• • • • *

in] .a.
.... •»
mj.ff.

• •• • 3

ill] .a.
.»• . *

lllj.tf.

• ft « • 3

lllj.tf.

Appiltrbwyk' (Applbtbebwick).

Johannes Yong* senior, CUwr,
& vx vj.d.

Johannes Yong' junior, Smyth',
& vx xj.d.

Henricus filius Ricardi, Sutor,

& VX yj.d.

Henricus Jon son, Carpenter,
& vx vj.d

* See also Halton East.

Johannes Somerton, Mawer,

& VX • • •

Henricus de Gyrmowth', ffullo,

& vx .
Jolyson, CUsor, & vx
Ricardus Wryght' & vx
Thomas Kempe & vx
Thomas Yowhyrd' & vx
Robertas de Nusse & vx
Johannes de Nussay & vx
Johannes de Calton & vx
Thomas de Crofton & vx
Johannes Hyrd' & vx
Adam Tom son & vx
Willelmus Alius Willelmi & vx
Robertas Hyrd' & vx
Johannes de Gourlay and vx
Johannes filius Ricardi & vx
Johannes Emson & vx .
Johannes Slenger' & vx .
Adam ffellyng' & vx
Henricus Smelter' & vx .
Willelmus Talliourson & vx
Robertas Wall' & vx
HenricuB de Wall' & vx .
Johannes Webstre, senior

CiMor, & vx
Johannes fflecher, fflecher\ A

vx ....
Robert us Wattson, Cissor, & vx
Henricus Tele, Milner, & vx
Alicia Webstre, Textryx,
Agnes Toller', Textrix, .
Alicia Slynger", Textrix,
Sentient' — Johannes Adamson

Toinson
Robertas filius Henrici filii

Ricardi
Henricus Slenger' .
Johannes de Bay lay
Thomas de Wynterburn
Cecilia vx Trystrem
Agnes de Bank'
Oliua Bayllie .
Agnes filia Willelmi
Agnes Schephyrd
Cecilia Jondoghter'
l3olda Trestrem
Katerina filia Thome

Summa — xviij.*.

v].d.
vj.rf.

V].rf.

mi.**.

• • • • «

mi .</.
uij .a.
mi .a.

• • • • t

mj.a.

• • • • m

mi .a.
mi .a.

• • • » *

nil .d.

• n » * n

uij. a.

• • • • ■•

ill] .a.

• • • *

ui] .a.
nij.rf.

• • • • «

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• • • » «

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• • • » m

liii.ff.

• • t

luj.a.
Hi]. a.

• • • » n

in] .a.
v).d.

vj.rf.

v].d.
y].d.

• • • • n

V].rf.

vj.rf.

V].rf.

• t • • T

Hi] .a.

inj.tf.

liij. a.
• . • » •
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liii.a.

• • • «

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• • § • j

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• • • • ■»

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ill], d,

• • • • «

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ABNECLYFF' (ABNCLIFFE).

Henricus Clerke & vx
Thomas Arneclyff & vx .
Rogerus Lene & vx
Hugo de Pikall' & vx
Adam ffilius Simonis & vx
Willelinus de Parys & vx

• • • • y

mi. a.

• * • • t

ill]. a.

« • • • i

ui] .a.

• • . • j
in] .a.

• • . • »
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y).d.

Bicardus Thomson & vx
Willelmus filius Elie & vx
Johannes Cyllson & vx .
Willelmus Horner & vx .
Thomas Daudson & vx .
Johannes Milner & vx
Johannes Daudson & vx
Edmundus de Esmondrawe &

vx ....
Johannes Pome & vx
Johannes Dene, Emptor lana-

rum, & vx

uij

Robertus Dene <fc vx
Willelmus de Wyghale & yx
Serulent' — Johannes filius Ade
Willelmus filius Ricardi .
Thomas nil i us Elie .
Isabella seruiens Bank son
Isabella seruiens Johannis Mil

ner
Emma Hagase
Amya Malsese
Katerina de GasegyP
Alicia Wylyn .
Alicia filia Johannis
Johannes de Colgyll'
Alicia de Colgyll
Tillot' Punte .
Katerina de Wyghehale
Nicholaus Hyrd'
Johannes filius Hugonis
Johannes Wynterburn
Alina Horner'

Summa — xv.i. \],d.

• • • • i

mj.rf.
Hi]. 4.
mj.d.

• • • m

nij.a.

• • • t

uij.d.
Hi] .a.
Hi] .a.

mi .a.
u\).d.

iii].d.
mi .a.
mi .a.

s • • m

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• • # • *

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iiij.rf.
iiij.d.

•• » • _»

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nij.a.

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• • • » «

ni].a.
nij.a.

• • • • 3

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mi .d.

• • • • «

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• • • • j
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» •• • »

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• • _»

Hi]. a.
uij. a.

Bolton (Bolton Abbey).

Henricus de Pudsay, ad valen-
ciam .....
Henricus de Pudsay senior,
ff rank ley n . . iij.j

Willelmus de Downom & vx
Johannes del Howe & vx
WalteruB ffyscher' & vx .
Johannes Northwod & vx
Rogerus de Halton' & vx
Thomas de Wallay & vx
Thomas del Wode & vx .
Johannes filius Willelmi & vx
Henricus Brewstre & vx
Alanus Taylliour & vx .
Willelmus Werell & vx .
Willelmus Werell junior & vx
Adam Redheued & vx
Ricardus Schall' & vx
Johannes Nodde & vx
Adam Iueson k vx .
Henricus de Kegleswyk & vx
Willelmus Hykson & vx .

.#.

• • • • T

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• • • • m

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• • B «

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• • • • «

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nij.a.
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• • * t

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• • B • 1

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• • • • m

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uij.//.
Hi].i2.

EdmunduB de Rylay k vx
Ricardus Newconaen 5c vx
Thomas de Ottelay k vx
Willelmus Cotemane k vx
Robertua Mikylbroke k vx
Rogerus Rayheued k vx
Thomas de Sal lay k vx .
Johannes Ward' k vx
Stephanas de M idle ton k vx
Robertus de Parke k vx .
Willelmus de ffeyghser' k vx
RobertUB de Sal ford k vx
Ricardus Rell' k vx
Willelmus Kemp k vx .
Johannes Alius Alane (sic) k vx
Robertus de Bisham k vx
Adam de Bisham k vx .
Johannes filius Ricardi k vx
Johannes Webstre & vx .
Elias de Horshyll' k vx .
Robertus Spenser k vx
Johannes Tom son k vx .
Johannes de Ranyngton k vx
Thomas Mylner k vx
Willelmus West k vx
Thomas filius Johannis k vx
Robertus de Horesford k vx
Hugo de Sail ay k vx
Ricardus de Thonton k vx
Robertus Webstre & vx .
Walterus Bell' k vx
Ricardus de Austwyk k vx
Johannes filius Ade k vx
Willelmus de Lond' k vx
Seruient' — Ricardus de Downou
Alicia ffyscher'
Johannes de Netherwod*
Johannes de Netherwod' junior
Seruiens Johannis de Nether-
wod' ....
Cecilia de Boglesmyre
Edmundus filius Alane (tic)
Matilda de Remyngton
Katerina de Miklebroke .
Emma de Clap ham
Mar gar eta seruient Rectoris
Alicia Johson .
WillelmuB de Kendall* .
Henricus Parsonman
Isabella Panne ter .
Alicia Par me ter'
Johannes de Waterbank'
Ellott' Persdoghter'
Alicia de Salford
Johannes Ward'
Henricus Jonson
Johannes Bell'
Cecilia Salford'

Summa — xlviij.*. iiij.rf

• • • «

mi .a.

• • •» 3

nij.a.

ft • ft • V

mi. a.

• • • » *

nij.a.

• • • 3

mi. a.

• • • • *

mj.a.

• • • • 3

mj.a.
mj.a.

• • • • 3

mj.a.

• • t • 3

iii].a.
mj.a.
ui] .a.

• • • • f

mj.a.
mj.a.

• • • • *

mi .a.
mj.a.

• • • • 3

mi. a.
mj.a.

• • • • j

mj.a.

» ... j

nij.a.

ft •• • 3

mj.a.
••• • »
ni].a.

• • • • 3

mj.a.
mj. a.
mj .a.

• • * • 3

in] .a.
mj.a.

• » • 3

ill]. a.

» • • _y
lllj.ff.

ft ft • • J

mj.a.
mj.a.

• • • *

ui] .a.

ft » • 7

ui]. a.
• • • » »
mj.a.

• • • • 3

mj.a.

• • • • «

in] .a.

• • • 3

mj.a\
mj. a.

• • » • 3

mj. a.

• • • • 3

mj. a.

• • m • f

lll].ff.

• • t • T

ill] .a.
nij.a.
mj. a.

• • • • «

ui] .a.

• • • • ■j

nij.a.
mj .a.

• • ft • T

lllj.ff.

mj.a.
mj.a.

• • • 3

ill] M.

mj.a.

• • • • »

111].//,
lllj.a.

• • • f

lll].ff.

• • • 3

lilj.a.

mj .a.

Bracewell'.

Dominus Ricardus Tempest,

Chiualer, k vx
Perot Tempest. Armatus, k vx
Johannes de Midhop k vx
Robertus Tomson k vx .
Johannes Will son k vx .
Johannes Tomson k vx .
Alanus Elcok k vx
Johannes de Broghton k vx
Ricardus del Hey k vx .
Johannes Hardy k vx
Thomas del Rawe k vx .
Johannes filius Henrici k vx
Johannes Nicolson k vx
Thomas de Gysburn & vx
Johannes Morys k vx
Henricus de Lethom k vx
Willelmus Smyth, Fabar, k vx
Johannes Wattson k vx .
Ricardus Lasyngbi k vx
Willelmus de Lethom k vx
Robertus Elcok k vx
Johannes Mason k vx
Johannes Colynson k vx
Johannes Mauncell' k vx
Thomas Webster', Textor^ & vx
Elena teruiena Johannis de

Midhop' ....
Summa — xxxiij.*. viij.a*.

xx.*.
xl.a\

• • * 3

Ul]. a.

ft • • • m

ui] .a.

.... m

iu].d.

ft • •> *

iin.a\

ft • ft ft 3

nij.a.

ft ft ft T

nij.a.

• • • • y

n n.<7.

• • • » 3

mj.a.

• • • • 3

nij.a.
m j. a.

ft • ft • 3

mj.a.

ft • • * 3

ui] .a.

• • • • 3

mj.a.
vj.a*.
nij.a.
iiij .a*,
in]. a.

ft • • 3

Hi]. a.

ft « ft • 3

ui] .a.
.... j
mj.a.

ft ft • • 3

mj.a.
vj.a*.

iiij.a\

Bradford' (West Bradford).

Ricardus Broune k vx
Adam de Bradford' k vx
Adam filius Johannis
Johannes Diconson k vx
Thomas filius Hugonis k vx
Johannes Tailliourmoghe k vx
Jo ha nn es Milner k vx
Gregorius de Bolton k vx
Willelmus filius Hugonis k vx
Adam de Hardeyn k vx
Thomas Broune k vx
Willelmus de Eddlysston k vx
Johannes Betonson k vx
Dakyn de Idsford k vx
Johannes Lowcoke k vx
Ricardus de Hyll' k vx
Ricardus Stronger' k vx
Johannes Strenger' k vx
Cicilia vx Roberti Snell
Agnes Doghdale
Emma filia Radulphi
Katerina vx Roberti
Agnes Hankokwyf .
Isabella de Hardeyn
Agnes filia Ricardi del Hyll'

• • • • i

iiij.o\

• • • *

nn. a.

ft ft ft y

mj.a.
mj.a.

ft • 3

nn. a.
iii].a\

ft » 3

mj.a.

« ft • • 3

mj.a.

• ••* 3

nij.a.

ft ft ft m

HI].//.

• • • ft <f

mj.a.

• ft •* *

lllj.rf.

ft ft • • 3

mj.a.

• • • • i

mj d.
nij.a.

ft ft • * 3

ni].a.
v].d.
v].d.

ft ft « • V

mj.a.

• • • • *

mj.a.

• • • • 3

mj.a.

• • ft • 3

ni].a.

• ft • 3

Hi] .a.

• • • • «

mj.a.

• ft ■»

mj.a.

Anabilla de Hodre .

••• • j
. ui]. a.

Isabella de Hedre .

9 • • • *

. uij. a.

Johannes de Hedre

• • • • 3

. in j. a.

WillelmuB Strenger'

• • 3

. uij. a.

Willelmue de Hardeyn .

. uij d.

Mogota Locok

• • • «

. uij. a.

Matilda Lecok

• t • 3

. ill]. a.

Summa— xj.*.

Braydlay (Bbadley).

Adam filius Hugonis k vx
Thomas filius Ade de Denton
Thomas Fowler' k vx
Thomas Styrke k vx
Johannes Leper & vx
Ricardus Styrk' k vx
Johannes Helysson k vx .
Willelmue de Coplay k vx
Robertus Bakstre k vx .
Johannes filius Matilde k vx
Thomas Wreght' & vx .
Johannes Wreght 1 , Carpenter

k vx

Robertus filius Johannis k vx
Willelmus Pacok k vx
Johannes filius Willelmi k vx
RobertuB filius Willelmi k vx
Johannes Pacok k vx
Elena vx Johannis .

Summa - viij.#. v\\j.d.

\j.d.

vj.d.

mj.d.

vj.d.

• • • • m

ill] .d.
vj.d.
vj.d.
vj.d.
vj.d.
vj.d.
vj.d.

vj.d.
vj.d.
vj.d.
vj.d.
vj.d.
vj.d.

V].rf.

Beoghton' (Bbouohton).

Willelmus Geliot', ffrankleyn,

k vx . . .. xl d.

Thomas de Marton Ci'mot, k vx vj.d.

Matilda ff ray ell' . . xl d.

Thomas Lofthowhes k vx . iiij.d.

Robertus Lofthowhes, (rlasier,

& vx vj.d.

Willelmus de Merkedeyu, Ar-

matus, & vx . . xl d.

Johannes Reuell' & vx . . iiij.rf.

Johannes Lofthowhes k vx iiij d.

Ricardus de ffamel thorp & vx . iuj.d.

Johannes Hyrd' & vx . iiij.d.

Johannes Smyth' & vx . . Iuj.d.

Willelmus Hodrot & vx . iiij.d.

Johannes Brygge k vx . . mj.d.

Thomas Geliot & vx . . mj.d.

Johannes Maymond k vx . iiij d.

Thomas filius Ade k vx . . iiij d.

Willelmus de Adyngham k vx \\\j.d.

Agnes Sclater' & vx 'mj.d.

Willelmus Jonkyson k vx . nij.d.

Adam de Gressynton k vx
Johannes Piper' k vx
Henricus de ffamel thorp' k vx
Johannes de Slowth' & vx
Johannes de Kyrkby k vx
Willelmus Dryffeld k vx
Ricardus de Aldefeld' k vx
Thomas Byschop' k vx .
Thomas MarynBon k vx .
Willelmus Somerhyrst k vx
Alicia de Loftehoweses .
Seruientes — Willelmus Jakson
Janyn Merkyldeman
Margareta servient Rectoris
Willelmus de Lofthowses
Isabella seruiens Matilde ffray

ueir ....
Alicia Henridoghter

Summa — xxj «. mj.d.

BUKDETN (BUCKDEN).

Ricardus Benson k vx
Willelmus Tenaunt k vx .
Rogerus Tenaunt k vx
Johannes Tenant & vx .
Johannes filius Petri k vx
Ricardus Tenaunt k vx
Ricardus Grenfell' k vx .
Thomas Colynson k vx .
Johannes de Pott k vx
Thomas de Curie & vx .
Johannes Nableson k vx .
Thomas de Loege k vx .
Johannes Austynson k vx
Willelmus Benson k vx .
Rogerus Jakson k vx
Johannes Ellson k vx
Willelmus Todd' k vx
Johannes Graueson k vx
Robertus Turner k vx
Robertus Hebdeyn & vx.
Thomas Austynson k vx
Willelmus Bellard' & vx .
Johannes de Wenselaw & vx
Willelmus filius Isollde & vx
Willelmus Hyrd' k vx
Johannes Lyttster k vx .
Johannes de Staynford' k vx
Thomas Wyllson k vx
Johannes Lei e son k vx .
Adam Brawnt k vx
Willelmus de Stanehow k vx
Johannes Wattson k vx .
Adam filius Agnetis k vx
Johannes Webstre k vx .
Robertus filius Thome de

Staynford' k vx .
Henricus de Stanehow k vx

• • • • «

mj.d.

• • _3

nij.a.

inj.a.

. . • • j
ni). a.

• • • 3

wild.
inj.rt.

• • • m

nij d.

w • • • 3

mi .d.
mi. a.
n li. a.

• • • » 3

nij. a.
mj.d.

• t • • 3

inj.a.
\ih.d.

• • • • 3

mj.d.

inj.a.

mj.d.

im.d-
liij.rt-

• • • • 3

lin.rt'

• • • • m

im.d-
inj.a*
inj.tf-

• • • t 3

ii n. a-
inj.a-
mj.d-

• • • • 3

m\. a-
inj.a-
mj.d-

• m m • m

lllj.rf-

• t • 3

inj.a*

• • • » 3

1111. rt-

• • • * «

nij. a*

• • • • 3

mj.d.

• • • m

1111. tf.
in]. a.

• • « 3

nii.rf.

• • •* 3

nij d.

m m m • 3

mi ,d.

• • • » 3

111). <I.
111). rf.

• • m • 3

inj.a.
uij.a.

• • » «

in j. a.

• • • 3

uij. a.

• • • m

ni].d.
in] d.
mi. a.

• • • » 3

nij. a.

• • • 3

mj.d.

• • • • 3

nij. a.

• • • • 3

mi. a.

• • • • 3

in]. a.

Robert Studhyrd' & vx .
Seruient' — Adam Leleson
Hugo Ward*. Cissor, & vx
Thomas Tailliour & vx .
Agnes written* Willelmi filii

Isolde ....
Johannes Beruiens ejusdemWil

lelmi ....
Amary sentiem Johannis Gra

ueson ....
Johannes Alius Johannis Gra

ueson ....
Johannes Alius Willelmi Todd
Willelmus filius Willelmi Ben

son ....
Willelmus Jakson .
Johannes filius Willelmi Ten

aunt ....
Johannes Alius Johannis fili

Petri ....
Matilda seruiens Ricardi Ten

aunt ....
Henricus filius Hugonis .
Alicia de Hebdeyn .

Summa— xvij.*\ vj.//.

uij .a.

• • • » *

111 j .rf.

m • • *

mj./f.

• • • m

ill] .a.

• • • • 3

mj. a.
uij .a.

• • • • 9

in] .a.
mj.a.

• • • • «

mi a.

t • • • *

in] .a.
uij. a.
mj.a.

• • • n

in]. a.

lll].rf.

• • • • m

uij. a.

BBYNSALE (BURN8ALL).

Willelmus Prynce & vx .
Willelmus de Thorp' & vx
Thomas K ok son & vx
Thomas Wylkynson & vx
Johannes Hunter' & vx .
Johannes Clerke & vx
Thomas Clerkson & vx .
Henricus Grundelf & vx
Johannes Bretener' & vx
Willelmus de Brutesall' & vx
Johannes de Scard burgh Ac vx
Willelmus de Gayregraue k vx
Thomaft Milnerson & vx .
Hugo Tailliour & vx
Johannes Gay thy rd' & vx
Nicholaus de Thorp' & vx
Johannes Swarthowe, C-arjien

ter, & vx
Willelmus Hunter, Textor, &

V JL • * • •

Johannes Tailliour, Ci*sor^ &

Alicia Bene

Isabella vxor Johannis
Alicia de Setle .
Matilda Jogesdoghter'
■Cecilia Maugurnays
Agnes Bryghowse
Willelmus filius Thome .
Seruient' -Henricus Prynce
Isolda filia Willelmi Prynce

xij.rf.
vj.//.
vj.//.
vj.//.

lllj.fl.

• • • 9

uij. a.
mi .a.
uij. a.

* ft • m

uij .a.

ft • • m

mi. d.

• • • * m

lllj.fl.

uij a.
uij .d.

• ft f

in] .d.

• • • *

nij. a.

• • • • v

iiij.d.

vj //.

vj.//.

vj.//.
u\].d.
inj.//.
ni].//.
lllj.ff.

• • • «

111].//.

• • • • *

111]. a.

• • • • 1

111].//.

• • • • f

inj.//.

• • • • *

uij //.

Johannes Nowcouene
Robertus Hunter'
Matilda Cadi .
Robertus Cadison

Summa— xij.*\ iiij.//.

• • • • *

in j .rf.

mi .a.

lllj.//.

uij .a.

Calton'.

Johannes de ffrekylyngton,

Marehanty & xv
Johannes de Malghom, ffrank-

eleyn, & vx . . vj.*.

Ricardus Wilkokson & vx
Thomas Haughenlyt & vx
Johannes Hulwath' & vx
Robertus Molyff & vx
Willelmus de Buneby & vx
Rogerus de Calton A: vx .
Ricardus Chese & vx
Henricus de Preston, Spicer,

& vx

Robertus Kyng' & vx
Johannes Paytfyn & vx .
Johannes Kyng' Hosteler. & vx
Johannes Kyngson & vx
Thomas filius Ricardi Wykok

& vx

Henricus Tylnay & vx
Willelmus se miens Willelmi

de Boneby & vx .
Alicia Jolyff ....
Cecilia Hulwath'
Thomas Kyngson

Summa — xv.*.

xij.//.
viij.//.

• • • i

mj.rf.

• • • • _t

lllj.//.

• • • • -f

lllj.//.

• • • J

ill] .a.
uij. a.
mi .a.
uij./r.

xij.//.

• • • • m

ui] .a.

• • • • *

ill] .a.
xij.//.

uij. a.

uij .a.

• • • • *

uij .a.

• • • m

mj.a.
lllj.//.
uij .a.
uij. a.

Carlbton'.

Johannes Dautre. Serigant

Ville .... vj.*. viii.//.
Emma IXuitre, vidua . iij.*. iii].d.

Henricus Dautre, Smyth\k vx vj./Z.

Radulphus de le Wod' & vx . iiij d.

Johannes fferant & vx . . iiij.i2.

Thomas ffrauell' & vx iiij.//.

Johannes de Vttelay& vx . iiij.//.

Robertus Cetter' & vx iiij.<£.

Robertus filius Ade & vx. . iiij.//.

Willelmus de le Scale & vx \\\).d.

Willelmus Bene & vx . . iiij.//.

Thomas Clarke & vx . . iiij.//.

Adam del Wod' & vx . . iiij.//.

Willemus Tayllyour & vx . iiij.//.

Johannes Kandsan & vx . . iii].//.

Johannes Henrison & vx . . iiij.//.

Robertus Dykson «fc vx . iiij.//.

Henricus Stubbes k. vx . . iiij.//.

Johannes de la Marche & vz
WillelmuB Dykson & vx .
Johannes del West k vx .
Adam Nethyrwod' k vx .
Henricus Blakbrowk k yx
Adam Scale k vx
Johannes de Ewod' k vx
Johannes Schephyrd* k vx
WillelmuB de Vttelay k vx
Rogerus Cowper' k vx .
Ricardus Webster* Textor, k vx
Thomas Lekenfeld', Textor, k

Seruientes — Johannes fferaunt
Radulphus de la Wode
Adam Newortham
Matilda Baron
Agnes Parcowr*
Johannes Manne
Willelmus Manne
Will elm us Benne
Willelmus fflechehaui

Summa — xxij.*. x.o\

111].//.
iiij.rt\

lllj.rt.

• • • • m

lllj.rt.

• • • • *

in]. a.

• • • *

lllj.rt.

• • • «

in). a.

• • • *

nij.ff.

• • m

lllj.rt.

vj.rt\

• • • • m

lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.

• • • • t

lllj.rt.

• • m • y

1111.0.

mj. rt.

• • • • *

liii.rf.

• » m

uij.rt.
iiij.rt.

Caldconyngston' (Coniston Cold)

Willelmus Grundolff, Cissw,k

vx vi.d.

Jordan de Rode & vx . . iiij.rf.

Johannes Turpyn & vx . . m).d.
Johannes de Mytton, Sutor, k

vx vj.rf*.

Willelmus Hardy & vx . . iiij.rf.

Mater Willelmi Hardi . . iiij.«\

Robertus Turpyn & vx . . iiii.a\

Ricardus Doeggson,/tt llo, k vx vj .d.
Johannes Maymond, Mcrcator

&vx xij.//.

Johannes Clerkson & vx . . iiij.rt\

Thomas Clerkson & vx . . \\\\.d.
Johannes fill us Thome Dykson

& vx iiij.tf*.

Willelmus Clerkson k vx . iiij.rf.

Thomas Clerkson & vx . . iiij.rf.

Thomas Dykson k vx . xij .rt\

Thomas de Twaytes k vx. . iiij.rf.

Adam Jonson & vx . . iiij.rf.

Willelmus Vttyng & vx . . iiij.rt*.

Kobertus Clerkson k vx . . iiij.tf.

Anabella Grane . . iiij.rt*.

Johannes filius Willelmi k vx. iiij.rt*.

Ricardus Rayner', Couper, k vx vj.rt*.
Summa — ix.*. iiij.tf.

Conyngston' in Ketlewelldale.
(Ooniston).

Willelmus de Pikall' k vx
Johannes de Pikall' k vx
Willelmus del Hall* k vx
Willelmus Jonson k vx .
Willelmus More and vx .
Cecilia Glendale
Willelmus del Mire k vx .
Nigillus de Folcott k vx
Johannes Dobson k vx .
Willelmus ffyscher', Slater,

vx ....
Willelmus del Wode k vx
Johannes del Trop k vx .
Thomas Vttyng' k vx
Adam Boy & vx
Willelmus WJlesker' k vx
Johannes Blawer' k vx .
Willelmus del Bank k vx
Robertus de Kyrkby k vx
Johannes Forster de Kybissay

k vx
Ricardus de Midlehows k vx
Adam Erie & vx
Thomas Langsker' k vx .
Johannes de St! till' & vx .
Thomas Someer' k vx
Willelmus Smyth', Faber y k vx
Adam Tail Hour. Ctisor, k vx
Thomas Cokson, Cis$or, k vx
tieruimt' — Robertus Berni/ns

Johannis Trope
Thomas Beruu'n* ThomeCokson
Agnes Rae
Alicia de Newton
Agnes ffyscher'
Johannes filius Ade Tailliour
Johannes filius Thome Somer'
Isabella seruien* ejusdem

Thome .

Summa — xij.*. vj.tf.

Collyng (Cowling).

Johannes West & vx
Ricardus West k vx
Willelmus filius Johannis k vx
Johannes de Totyngton k vx
Johannes de Paldeyn & vx
Adam filius Johannis k vx
Adam del Dobbes k vx .
Willelmus de Merebeke k vx
Johannes de To rig' k vx .
Johannes de Wraton k vx
Robertas Damson k vx .
Johannes filius Willelmi k vx

lllj.rt.

vj.rt*.

lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.

liny/,
lllj.rt.
nii.fl.
mj.rt.

yj.d.

• • » ■»

lllj.rt.

• • • *

lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.

• • • m

lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.

• • • • ?

lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.

• • • •«

nij.rt\

• • • • ■•

nij.rt.

• • • *

nij.rt.

• • • • i

mj.rt.

lllj.rt.

• • • • *

lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.

Y).d,
vj.rt*.
vj.rt*.

lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.

lllj.rt.

• • • * *

lllj.rt.

• • • • m

lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.

lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.

• • • • «

lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.

• • a • m

lllj.rt.
lllj.rt.

• • • • f

iu\.d.

lllj.rt.

• • • f f

lllj.rt.

Johannes de Brytwesle k vx
Ricardus Smyth, Faber, k vx
Johannes Dauy k vx
Johannes Scot k vx
Robertas Dauy k vx
Johannes Mason k vx
Agnes filia Johannis
Willelmus Tillotson
Tillot' de Northwod*
Seruient' — Isabella vx Roberti
Johannes Tillotson
Johannes de Northwod' .
Robert us del Rode .

Summa— viij.*. ivj./f.

• • • • *

iiij a.
vj.//.

lllj.//.

• • • * j
mj.rf.

• • • • j

iuj.//.

m 9 • » J

ill] .a.
mi .a.

• • • t j

mi.rt.
ill].//.

lllj.//.

• • • • j

inj.//.

• • •» »
ill] .a.

Crakhowe (Cracoe).

Adam filius Johannis k vx
Thomas Schephyrd' k vx
Johannes Wattson k vx .
Johannes de Wykleswrth' k vx
Willelmus Redheued' k vx
Thomas Henri bee k vx .
Thomas Morehowse k vx
Johannes de Morehowse k vx
Willelmus Jonson k vx .
Thomas Browne k vx
Johannes de Riway (?) k vx
Willelmus de Bolton & vx
Hugo Nayler' k vx
Adam Schephyrd* & vx .
Thomas Stagsaruant k vx
SeruU>nV — Alicia filia Thome

Stage ....
Isolda Bannyesleue .
Margareta seruiens Johannis

Trepland .
Alicia Bertiietu Johannis Tyrry
Summa— vj.#. iiij.//.

• • • • 7
lllj.//.

* • • * *

in]. a.
mi.//,
nii.rf.
in].//.

• • • • *

mid.

• • • • t

inj.//.
mj./i.

• • • * j

iu]. a.

m • • • f

inj.tf.
liij.rf.

• • • v

111] .A.

• • ft • _»

lllj.//.

ft ft ft f

111].//,
lllj.//.

lllj.//.

• • • • f

lllj.rf.

111].//.
111].//.

Draghton* (Draughton).

Willelmus Mason & vx . . iiij.//.

Willelmus Waynman k vx . iiij.//.

Johannes Prest & vx . . iiij.//.

Johannes de Angrom k vx . iiij.//.

Robert us de Draghton & vx . iii].//.

Willelmus de Draghton k vx . iiij.//.

Johannes de Draghton k vx . iiij.//.

Johannes Doublegueght k vx . iii].//.

Willelmus de Heselewod' k vx iiij.//.

Johannes Artheyngton & vx iii] d.

Johannes Walker k vx . iiij.//.
Robertus de Brad lay, CUsor,

& vx vjy/.

Willelmus Coluyl & vx .
Sentient'— Ricardus Doegheson
Johannes Masan
Johannes Pawson
Johannes Lecheson . ,
Ricardus Jonson
Johannes Parkynson
Adam Edeson

Summa — vij.#.

• • • • V

111].//.

a • ft ft f

111].//.

vj.//.

m). a.

• • • • _j

Hi].«.

• t • •

111] A.
lllj.//.
lllj.il.

ESYNGTON* (EASINGTON).

Johannes de Townlay & vx
Robertus filius Ricardi k vx
Johannes filius Rogeri k vx
Johannes filius Nicholai k vx
Johannes de Billyngton k vx
Johannes Robynson k vx
Adam Scot & vx
Willelmus filius Ade k vx
Thomas de Bolton k vx .
Johannes de Laukeland* k vx
Adam Dolfynson k vx
Johannes Brynham k vx .
Rogerus de Bathersby, ff ranke-
leyn, & vx

Summa — v.*

Ems ay (Embsay).

Johannes de Caluerlay k vx .
Robertus de Calton, Carpenter,

k vx

Johannes Oraue k vx
Johannes Michelson k vx
Johannes Roper*, Roper, k vx
Hugo Chapman, Draper, k vx
Robertus de E in say k vx
Robertus filius Willelmi k Vx
Henricus le Qweriowre k vx
Ricardus le Feloter' & vx
Robertus Elcok and vx .
Johannes le Theker* k vx
Simon Huntman k vx
Johannes de Holyn k vx
Thomas de Aldfeld' k vx
Willelmus de Kyrke k vx
Adam de Malgham k vx .
Robertus de Bryndsall k vx
Johannes Clerkson k vx .
Willelmus Ward' k vx .
Willelmus Mason, Mason, k vx
Adam Doke & vx
Johannes de Thorbrand', Sutot

k vx
Ricardus de Caluerlay k vx

• • • • *

in]. a,
in]. a.

• • • • j

inj.//.

• • • • *

mj. a.
iuj.//.
in], a.

• • » «

lllj.//.

• • • • *

lllj.//.

• • • » f

111].//,
lllj.//.
lllj.//.
lllj.//.

xij.//.

inj.//.
vj.//.

t • • • f

lllj. a.
mj .a.

vj.//.

vj.//.
inj.//.
lllj .a.
iii].//.

• • • • j

lllj .a.
lllj.//.
lllj.//.

• • • 3

ill], a.
inj.//.
mj. a.

• • • • «

inj.//.

• • • • -«

mj.//.
inj.//.

• • • • j

nij.a.
mj.//.
xij.//.

• • • • f

mj.//.
vj.//.

ft • • «

111].//.

Willelmus Ward man & vx
Seruient" — Wi 1 lelmus Mruiens

Johannis Graue
Margareta filia Simonis
Matilda Aldfeldogter'
Leticia Browne
Hugo de Calton

Summa — xj.#. iiij.rf.

ESCHETON* (ESHTON).

Johannes de Grene k vx
Thomas at le Townhend' k vx
Thomas Symson & vx
Thomas Dauson k vx
Johannes Wreghson k vx
Johannes de Newton & vx
Ricardus filius Henrici k vx
Willelmus Jodson k vx *.
Johannes de Bolton k vx
Johannes filius Roberti k vx
Johannes Langcast k vx
Robertas Wreghtson k vx
Johannes Browne k vx .
Johannes Raper' k vx
Sentient' — Thomas seruiens

Johannis Graue .
Adam Wreght*
John de Escheton, Faber.

Summa— vj.*. vj.rf.

• • • j
mj .a.

mj.rf.
mi. rf.
mj.rf.
mj.rf.
mj.rf.

• • • • *

mj. a.

• • • • m

mj.rf.

• • • * «

lllj.rf.

• • • • m

111] rf.

liij.rf.
mj.rf.

lllj.rf.

iii].rf.

• • _T

lin. a.
in] .rf.

• • • • «

ill] .rf.

• • • • V

mi .a.
mj.rf.

• • • «

mj.rf.

« • • • f

mi.rf.

vj.rf.

xij.rf.

FFARNILl/ FFBANKILL' (fabnhill).

Johannes de Coplay, ffranke

leyn ....
Thomas Kyrystendome CUsar

k vx ....
Johannes Stubes k vx
Johannes Bowrne k vx
Paulyn filius Henrici k vx
Johannes Cheyuot, Ci*sor } k vx
Henricus Crokbane k vx
Adam del Stoke k vx
Johannes Speght' k vx .
Ricardus Mason k vx
Johannes Baret senior
Johannes Baret junior k vx
GilbertUB Salter k vx
Willelmus Speght' k vx .
Thomas Waynman k vx .
Johannes Collyng' k vx .
Johannes filius Egidii k vx
Robertus Ward' k vx
Seruient' — Cecilia Crokbane
Cerilia Baret .

xl.rf.
vj.rf.

• • • *

mj.rf.

• • • •

mj.rf.

vj.rf.

lllj.rf.

vj.rf.

• • • • 9

lllj.rf.

• • * • 9

111].//,
lllj.rf.

lllj.rf.
111].//,
lllj.rf.

v] d.

• • • • «

mj.rf.

111], rf.

mj.rf.

vj.rf.

• • • t

ill]. A.

Margareta filia Henrici Crok-
bane

Agnes de Barcroft .

Johannes filius Johannis Gyl-
esson

Magota de Brad! ay .

Thomas Speght 1

Johannes WytvlP k vx

Alicia WytbercT

Juliana Leper

Rogerus Accok k vx

Agnes vx Ricardi .

Margareta Perler

Alicia de Burn

Summa — xiiij.*. vj.rf.

Fflasbt (Flabby).

Nicholaus Grandage, Armatus
Thomas Grandage k vx .
Thomas de Esseton k vx .
Johannes ffawnell' k vx .
Doket Flasby k vx
Adam de Kechyne k vx .
Robertus filius Ade k vx .
Johannes de Kerke k vx .
Nicholaus Pape k vx
Willelmus de S wen den k vx
Johannes Spoiler' k vx .
Willelmus Newcoume k vx
Willelmus Cowhyrd' k vx
Willelmus de Hall* k vx .
Johannes de Horton k vx
Johannes Turnur' k vx .
Johannes Browne k vx .
Willelmus de Cote k vx .
Johannes de Bonby k vx
Johannes Addeson k vx .
Adam Waynman k vx
Willelmus Geldhyrd' k vx
Adam Brad belt k vx
Willelmus de Bone by k vx
Adam de Cote k vx
Willelmus Walker' vx
Henricus Darwent, Walker*

(&) vx ...

Henricus de Cote, Draper, (&)

VJL • • • •

Johannes Staple, Carpenter

(&) vx .
Johannes filius Roberti, Web

iter, k vx
Agnes Padmer' doghter,' Web

si^r, ....
Johannes filius Thome Grand

ago ....
Agnes filia Willelmi
Amya filia ejus
Agnes Noryse .

• • • • y

lllj.rf.
mj.rf.

. •• • r

ui]. a.

« • • • T

mj.rf.

• • • • or

mj.rf.

• • • • T

Hi] .a.

• • • y

inj. a.

• • • • v

mi. a.
n ij. a.
liij.rf.
mj.rf.
mj.rf.

xl.rf.
vj.rf.

• • • • t

mj.rf.

• • • • m

mj.rf.
mj.rf.
mj.rf.
mj.rf.
mj.rf.

• • • • *

mj.rf.

• • • • *

mj.rf.

• • • *

mj.rf.

• • • • «

mj.rf.

• • • • «

mj.rf.

• • • • *

mj.rf.

lll].rf.

• • • «

mj.rf.
mj.rf.
mj.rf.
mj.rf.
nij.rf.
mj.rf.

111] rf.

• • • • *

mj.rf.

vj.rf.

mj rf.
in j rf.

• • • • m

mj.rf.

• • • • *

mj rf.

Willelmus Walkerman .

Robertus Grandage .

Johannes de Wynterburn

Ricardus Geliot

Alicia Bascholf

Robertus Alanson

Elena Robyndoghter'

Johannes Doket

Thomas seruiens Pape

Robertus Darwent .

Ed ra undue servient Ade Brad

belt
Willelmus filius Roberti filii

Alani ....
Henricus Bcruiens Ade del Cote
Adam seruiens Ada del Cote
Matilda Browndoghter' .
Johannes filius Thome de Edd

leston ....
Cicilia (filia) ? Ade Bradbelt
Matilda Sponer'

Summa — xxj.*. x.rf.

• • • • V

ill] a.

• • • • t

nij .rf.

• • y

mi rf.

• • * y

lllj.rf.

• • • » t

mj.rf.

• • • • 7

nij rf.

• • • » y

lllj.rf.

• • • • y

mi. a.

• • • * *

lllj.rf.

• • • • y

lllj.rf.

• • • • *

nij. a.

p • • • *

ui] .a.
lllj.rf.

• • • y

nij. a.

• • • y

lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.

• • # •

in] .a.

• • • • y

liij.rf.

Gatbbqraue (Gargrave).

Johannes de Gayregraue. ffran-

keleyn .... xl.rf.

Adam Walthawe, Spicrr, k vx ij.«.

Robertus Staple, Mercer, k vx vj.rf.

Ricardus Bowet & vx . . iiij.rf.

Adam Dylcar' & vx . . . iiij.rf.

Johannes Lollay, Milner, k vx iiij d.

Johannese Denle, Ctitor, k vx vj.rf.

Willelmus Staple & vx . . iiij.rf.

Adam Dogeson & vx . . iiij d.

Willelmus Dogeson & vx . . iiij.rf.

Johannes filius Matilde k vx . iiij.//.

Laurencius de Norman ton k vx iiij.//.

Willelmus Hungthorp', jfullo

& vx vj.rf.

Johannes del W r od* k vx iiij.//.

Adam Pawson & vx . . iiij.rf

Willelmus de Gayregraue, Tcx-

tor & vx . . . vj.rf.

Raynerus de ffountayns, Svtor,

& vx vj.rf.

Johannes Andre we, Smyth',

& vx vj.rf.

Willelmus Cowper, Cowprr, k

vx vj.rf.

Robertus Balkes k vx . iiij.r/.

Robertus Clerk, Scriptor, k vx xij.rf.

Johannes Wattson & vx . . iiij.//.

Johannes Heuer' k vx . iyj.rf.

Thomas Walker', Fulh\ k vx . vj.rf.

Johannes de Blakburn. Choi-
oner (#<>), & vx . vj.rf

Thomas filius Henrici & vx . iiij d.

Robertus Andre we & vx . . vj.rf.

Johannes Naker' k vx
Robertus Chese k vx
Willelmus de Calton k vx
Willelmus Pawson k vx .
Johannes filius Alicie k vx
Isabella de Preston
Willelmus Wattson k vx .
Robertus filius Nicholai & vx
Margareta Sclater', Textrix
Cicilia Fleter'
Agnes Dawyfe
Johannes Bowet k vx
Willelmus Seriant k vx .
Willelmus Ball* k vx
Johannes Lyttstre, Tinctor, k

\ .X. • • •

Summa — xxj.*. vj.//.

vj.rf.

• • • • «

mj.rf.

• • • y

liij.rf.

• • « *

mi.//,
nij.//.

lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.

• • • * y

lllj.rf.

vj.//.

• • • » y

lllj.rf.

• • • • «

lllj.rf.

a a • J

mi .a.

• • • • «

mi.rf.

• • • • y

mj.rf.
vj.rf.

GYGLESWTK (GlOaLBSWICK.)

Willelmus Monk k vx
Johannes de Bland' k vx.'
Willelmus de Laukland' k vx
Willelmus Jonson k vx .
Abraham filius Ade k vx.
Johannes de Bolton k vx.
Johannes filius Ade k vx
Walterus Forstre & vx .
Ricardus de Bank k vx .
Willelmus de Bank k vx.
Ricardus Prest & vx
Robertus de Bentham k vx
Willelmus Wylkynson k vx
Robertus Bail lie man k vx
Thomas Cokheued' k vx .
Willelmus de Bank junior k vx
Nicholaus Skynner' k vx
Johannes Jermowth' k vx
Johannes de G re n fell' & vx
Willelmus Cokheued' k vx
Johannes Brone k vx
Thomas Verty k vx
Ricardus de Heton & vx
Johannes Tailliour k vx
Johannes de Bland' k vx
Willelmus de Langclyff & vx
Willelmus de Vicars & vx
Ricardus Ward' k vx
Johannes de Skar' & vx
Willelmus Clerc k vx
Johannes de Telghfeld' & vx
Laurencius del ArmetBted'

ffrankleyn. k vx .
Willelmus filius Thome k vx
Adam filius Thome & vx .
Johannes Hunter' k vx .
Ricardus de Grenfell' & vx
Willelmus filius Ricardi' k vx
Adam de Palay k vx

• • • • •§

mj.rf.

• • • » y

lllj.rf.

t • • • f

lllj.rf.

• • a • *

lllj.rf.

• • * • y

lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.

• • • y

111] rf.

• a a • f

lllj.rf.

xij.rf.

• • • _y

mj.rf.

• a a* y

lllj.rf.

• • • • y

lllj.rf.
lllj rf.

• • • • y

lllj.rf.

• • • • y

lllj.rf.

• • • • y

lllj.rf.

a » y

lllj rf.

a • a y

lllj.rf.

• • • • f

lllj rf.
lllj.rf.

• • a •

111]./?.

a a a • y

liij.rf.
mj.rf.

vj.rf.

• • y

lllj rf.

• • • y

lllj.rf.

• • • • 9

lllj.rf.

• a • • y

mj.rf.

• • • • i

mj.rf.

• a a • y

lllj.rf.

xl.rf.

lllj rf.

• • • • y

lllj rf.

• * • *

lllj.rf.

a a • • y

lllj.rf.

• » a • y

lllj.rf.
lll].rf.

Johannes de Palay k vx .
Walterus de Wod' k vx .
Johannes Styegh' k vx .
Willelmus Kyd' k vx
Sentient' — Robertas Vessy
Willelmus filius Thome .
Apnea relicta Ricardi
Willelmus de Norham
Matilda Kemp
Johannes sentient Willelmi de

Laukland'
Emma Harpour
Willelmus de Grenfell' .
Isabella de Vicars .
Henricus Vicarman .
Johannes Vicarman

Summa— xxj.«. viij.rf.

GY8BUBN' (GlSBURN).

Johannes Bradhee k vx .
Johannes Moune & vx
Johannes Nicollson k vx.
Thomas Sclater' k vx
Johannes de El leal 1' k vx
Thomas Mayre k vx
Thomas de Westby & vx .
Willelmus .Chapman k vx
Ricardus Skynner\ Pelliparivs,

k vx
Robertus ffethethyan k vx
Johannes ffleschewer' k vx
Johannes Tailliour, Citsor, k

vx ....

Johannes Webster, Text or,

vx ...

Willelmus Archer k vx
Johannes Turner, Tourner.k vx
Ricardus Salter* k vx
Willelmus Smyth', Fabar' k vx
WillelmuB Bakster' & vx
Henricus Moune & vx
Johannes del Tee k vx
Johannes do NetherhalP k vx
Willelmus Geliot k vx
Thomas Nodder' k vx
Johannes Parcowre k vx
Henricus de Ryston k vx
Robertus de Heder' k vx
Johannes de Hoder' & vx
Willelmus Lax k vx
Johannes Vhoge k vx
Johannes de Altham k vx
Ricardus frater ejus k vx
Henricus Lange & vx
Robertus Ryder' k vx .
Johannes de Steresaker' k vx
Adam Hare k vx

t • • • t

mj. a.

• • • • *

inj a.

• • • • y

njj.rf.

• « * • y

mj.a.

• • • y

lllj.ff.

• • • • *

• * • y

lllj.tf.

• • • y

in). a.

• • • • t

nij.rf.

• • • * y

mi .a.

• • » «

111] M.

m • • • f

mj.r/.

• • • y

111] .ff.

mj .a.

• • • • y

mj .a.

mj.a.
ni].a\

• • • • y

mj.a.
mj.a.

• « • • y

mj.a.

• • • • j

m].a.

• • • *

in]. a.

• • * • y

lllj.a.

vj.d.

• • • *

inj.a.

• • y

i ii]. a.
vj.a*.

vj.a\
lllj.a.

vj.a*.
mj.a.

vj.a\

• a • y

mj.a.

• • • • y

inj.a.

• • • • y

ni].a.

• • • y

lllj.a.

» • »

mj.a.

« * • • y

inj.a.
mj.a.
mj.a.
mj.a\

• • • • t

mj.a.

« • • • i

mj.a.

• • • • y

in] d.

• • t

liij.a.

• • • • «

mj.a.

• • • • j

inj.a.

• • • • y

mj.a.

« • • • *

m). a.
mj.a.

Johannes Wylkynson & vx
Henricus de.Karr' k vx .
Robertus Bygcroft & vx .
Johannes de Schawge k vx
Seruient' — Agnes Sawghr'
Johannes Trystrem
Alicia ancilla ejus .
Agnes Robyndoghter'
Matilda Smale
Johannes Rawcystre
Nicholaus Randolfson
Alicia de Kyrke
Matilda Redikar' .
Matilda de Vicars .
Robertus filius ejusdem .
Katerina Bullok'
Johannes de Hoder'
Johannes de Brame
Elena de Brame
Mariona filia Henrici
Johannes de Elome
HenriciiB seruiens Johannis de

Altaham
Thomas seruiens Johannis

Altham
Willelmus Lauthton
Willelmus Careles .
Willelmus Stabeler' .
Ricardus filius Henrici del Car'
Summa — xxj.i. vj.o*.

Glusbubn'.

Willelmus Tele k vx
Willelmus de Coplay & vx
Johannes Scot k vx
Adam del Hole k vx
Johannes Wylkynson & vx
Willelmus Scot k vx
Robertus Stvrke k vx
Johannes Peres son k vx .
Johannes Styrke k vx
Johannes de Estburn k vx
Adam Scott & vx
Johannes Styrke k vx
Johannes de Burn k vx .
Robertus Dauyson & vx .
Thomas de ffyamyH' & vx
Robertus de Wradon (?) k vx
Johannes filius Willelmi k vx
Robertus Pedefer', GentiP, & vx
Seruient'— Agnes de Draghton
Matilda de Aldfeld' .
Johanna filia Johannis
Emma filia Henrici
Matilda filia vx Johannis Will

son

• • y

mj.a.

• • • • y

mj.a.

• • y

mj.a\

• • y

inj.a.

* • «

mj.a.
mj.a\

• * ft 9 y

m). a.

• m • y

mj.a.

• • • «

mj.a.

• • • *

mj.a.

• 9 9 9 -«

mj.a.
inj .a.
mj.a.

• • • • »

mj.a.
mj.a.

• • • • y

mj.a.

9 m • m

m). a.
mj.a.
mj.a.

• * • • *

in] .a.

• • • • «

mj.a.

• • • *

mj.a.
mj.a.

• b • y

in j. a.
m). a.

u • • » y

mj. a.

• • • y

mj.a.

Summa — viij*. \].d.

• t • * y

mj.a.
inj.a.

• • • y

inj.a.

• » • y

mj.a.

• « • • y

in] a.

• • • *

• • • y

in j. a.

• ft • • y

ni]. a.

• * y

in]. a.

• • • • f

mj.a.

• • • *

mj.a.

• • • y

mj.a.

• • • • y

inj.a.
vj.d.

• • • • t

in]. a.

• • • ■•

mj.a.
inj.a.
xij.a*.

• • • • y

mj. a.

• • • y

mj.a.

• • • • f

inj.a.

• • • « y

mj.a.

ft ft • « m

mj.a.

Garsyngton' (Grassington).

Johannes de Scardeburgh, ffir-
marius . . iij.*. iiij.//.

Adam Currour k vx. . . xij.//.

Ei card us de Pycall' & vx . . iiij.//.

Rogerus Butterinune k vx . iiij.//.

Willelmus Kokson k vx . . iiij d.

Simon Diconson k vx . iiij.//.

Johannes Spenserson & vx . iiij.//.

Adam Bawer' & vx . . iiij.//.

Johannes de Brynsair k vx . iiij.//.

Willelmus Moreson k vx . iii] d.

Robertus Dykson k vx . . iiij.//.

Adam Gawke k xx . . . iiij.//.

Johannes Schephyrd k vx . iiij.//.

Elias de Crakhewe k vx . iiij.//.

Johannes Hyrd' & vx . iiij.//.

Johannes de Mynskyp k vx . iiij.//.

Willelmus Dykson, Sutor, k vx vj.//.

Rogerus Hun ton k vx . iiij.//.

Willelmus Toppyng' k vx . iiij.</.

Johannes de West & vx . . iiij.//.

Johannes Dykson & vx . . iiij.//.

Ricardus de Pylkes & vx . iiij.//.

Willelmus Smyth', Faber\ k vx vj.//.

Henricus Tailiiour, Cissor,k\x. vj.//.

Thomas Taylliour, Cistor. k vx vj.//.

Johannes Webster, Textoi\ k vx vj.//.

Seruient' — Johannes de

Scharth' .... iiij.//.

Willelmus wruiens Ade Cur-
rour iiij.//.

Willelmus Jonson Dykson . iiij d.

Isabella Snekdoghter' . . iiij.//.

Marmedoke .... iiij.//.

Alicia relicta Ade Badson . mj.//.

Johannes Alius Elie . . iiij.//.

Magota Bote rm one . . . iiij.//.

Emma de Dent . . iiij.//.

Agnes Moredoghter' . iiij.//.

Margeria sororejus . . . iiij d.

Alicia Huddok 1 . . . iiij.//.

Johannes Alius Willelmi Dyk-
son iiij d.

Johannes seruienB Ricardi de

Pylkes iiij.//.

Thomas srruitfis Johannis de

Schardbugh . . iiij.//.

Agnes ancilla ejusdem Johannis iiij.//.

Thomas sentient ejusdem Jo-
hannis .... iiij.rf.
Summa— xviij.#. x.//.

Gryllyngton' (Grindleton).

Willelmus de Clapham k vx . iiij.//.
Willelmus Snell' k vx . iiij.//.

Willelmus Bakstre k vx . . iiij.//.

Thomas de Hole k vx
Robertus Rud' k vx
Ricardus Qwytschank k vx
Henricus de Downe k vx
Willelmus Webstre, Textor, k

V A • • • •

Ricardus de Standeyn & vx
Laurencius Tyreir k vx .
Hugo Lemyng 1 k vx
Robertus de Euerby k vx
Johannes de Kendall* k vx
Robertus Hanson & vx
Nicholaus de Altham k vx
Johannes Malesese k vx
Johannes Symson & vx
Symon Watson & vx
Hugo Bryd k vx
Pety Jon k vx

Robertus Alius Hugonis k vx
Johannes Robynson Hoghson

k vx

Rogerous Tailiiour, £*w*v>r,&vx
Ricardus de Cleghe k vx
Johannes Fogle k vx
Johannes de Dudton k vx
Johannes filius Radulphi k vx
Ricardus Cowper' & vx .
Johannes de Malton & vx
Johannes Milner k vx
Johannes Tydy k vx
Adam de Darlav k vx
Adam de Rokschawe & vx
Robertus de Rymyngton k vx
Henricus de Cloghe & vx
Adam Seriant k vx
Johannes Stobber' k vx .
&eruirnt 9 — Eliot' Dawghter'
Isabella vx Johannia de Marc he
Willelmus ffox
Johannes de Brewhouse
Alicia filia Johannis
Katerina filia Johannis

Summa — xiiij.*. viij.rf

iiij.//.
11 1 yd.

• • • • y

nii.rt.

• • •* y

111].//.

vj.//.

• • • y

111].//.

• • • «

inj.//.

• • • • *

lllj./Z.

• • • y

mj./z.

• • • • ■«

1111.0.
lllj./Z.

• • • y)

1111. rf.

• • • 1 y

mj d.

• • • y

mj.//.
mj.//.

• • • » y

nij.rf.

• • • » «

mj.//.

• • • • *

mj //.

• • • • y

inj.//.

vj.//.

inj.//.

• • » • y

mj.//.

a • a • f

mj.//.

• • • a *

ii lj d.

• a • y

mj.//.

• • • • y

mj.//.

• • • • t

mj.//.
mj.//.

• • • *

mi d

• • • • y

mj.//.

• • • • t

mj.//.
mj.//.

• • • V

mj.«.

• • • • t

mj.«.
mj.//.
mj.//.

• • • • 3

mj.//.

• • • *

mj.//.
mj.//.

• • • • 9

mj.//.

Halton* super lb Hyll'
(Halton East.)

Thomas Sawgher' k vx .
Willelmus Carter' k vx .
Johannes Stud hyrd' & vx
Willelmus Swynhyrd k vx
Willelmus Lauerok k vx.
Henricus filiu6 Walteri & vx
Willelmus Chapman k vx
Willelmus del Vicars k vx
Henricus Sawgher' k vx .
Robertus Pynder k vx
Willelmus Sowter k vx .
Robertus Sawgherr' k vx

• • • • m

lllj.//.

mj.//.
mj.//.
mj.//.

• • a • y

mj.//.

• • • • y

mj.//.
mj./z.

• a • • •■

mi.//.

• • • «>

mj.//.

• • • • y

mj.//.

a * • » J

HI].//.

a a a • ■•

HI].//.

Johannes Sawghcr' & vx

Johannis Brewatre & vx

Johannes Sawgher' senior & vx

Ricardus Bakstre & vx

Willelmus Alius Johannis & vx

Ricardus de Angrom & vx

Willelmus de Kendall 1 & vx .

Alicia vx Johannis .

Agnes Kay .

Alicia Cowhyrd'

„ . 1 Johannes de Oter-
Emtoresl burn .

lanarum f JohanneB vicarman

Sum ma— xiiijx \).d.

H Alton* West.

Nicholaus de Halton & vx
Willelmus de Laukland* & vx
Ricardus de Thornbargh* & vx
Robertus de Yauhig* & vx
Robertus del Twaytes & vx
Rogerus de Halton & vx
Johannes Alius ejus & vx
Johannes Strenger' & vx
Willelmus de Twaytes & vx
Nicholaus Steuenson, Carpen

ter y & vx
Ricardus de Schyrburn & vx
Hugo de Grenfell' & vx .
Johannes Grenfell' & vx .
Johannes Kyng' & vx
Robertus filius Nicholai & vx
Ricardus Qwelwryght' & vx
Nicholaus Yrys & vx
Robertus Denysson & vx .
Thomas Cowper, Couper, & vx
Johannes Taylliour, Ci**or, A

vx ....

Johannes ffayreghe & vx .
Johannes Thomson & vx .
Robertus Neleson & vx .
Servient' — Willelmus Styrtau

ant ....
Magota Jakdoghter'
Johannes filius Johannis

Stryng'
Isabella Robyndoghter' .
Sum ma — x.*. ij.tf.

Hamebton'.

Johannes Rider* & vx
Ricardus de Catchoghe & vx
Johannes Cowhyrd' & vx
Adam Hehake & vx

vj./i.
mi. a.
nil. a.

• • • • 3
lllj.«.

ft • fl 7

\\\].d.

iiij.rf.

fiii.rf.
•• • • j
mj.a.

\\\\.d.

\\\).d.

i\.d.
xl.<2.

xij.tf.
lllj.tf.

• • • * _7

nij.rf.

• • • • 7

inj.a.
mi .a.

• • » 7

nij.rt.

• • • • 7

111 J .«.

• • • • 7

111] .A.

• • • • _J

ill] .a.
vj.rf.

• • • 7

iiij.tf.

m • • • 7

nij.a.
mi .a.
mj.a.

• • • * 7

111] .A.

• • • • 7

nii.a.

• • • * 7

nij. a.

• f 7

nij.rf.
v}.d.

v].d.

« • • 7

lllj.tf.

• • • 7

Ulj.fl.

• • 7

lllj.tf.

• • > • 7

nii.ff.

• • • f

iiij.//.

• • • • ■»

lllj.tf.

• • • • 7

lMJ.fi.

• • • f

nij.tf.

• • • * 7

in].//.

• • • 7

lllj.tf.
mj.a.

Willelmus Tyllson & vx .
Adam Alayn & vx .
Henricus de Schawe & vx
Johannes de Botterfeld' & vx
Johannes filius Ade & vx
JohanneB Hardy & vx
Johannes Heghegate
Robertus Chapon & vx .
Willelmus Hardaker* & vx
Adam Hardaker 1 & vx .
Willelmus de Botterfeld' & vx
Sentient'— Cecilia Langea
Alicia Newhouse
RicarduB de Hamerton, ffranke-
leyn, . . • . vj.*.
Summa — xij.*. iiij.rf.

• • • • 7

mj.rf.

• • • » 7

lllj.tf.

• • • • 3

nil .d.

lllj.tf.

• • • • 7

mi .a.

• » • » 7

lllj.tf.

• • • 7

lllj.tf.

• • • • *

lllj.tf.

• • • 7

lllj.tf.

nij.tf.
« • . • »
Hi] .a.

iiij.tf\

• • • • 7

ill] .a.
viij.tf\

Hamlych (Hanlith).

Ricardus del Myre, Mason, k vx vj.rf.
Ricardus Dawson, Walker, &

vx ..... v}.tf\

Johannes Walche, Stnvth, & vx vj.tf*.
Johannes teruiens Willelmi

Clerke . . • iiij-^-

Summa— xxij.rf.

Habtelyngton' (Habtlington).

Henricus de Hartelyngton &
vx ....

Willelmus Walker' & vx .

Johannes Darr', Text or, & vx

Willelmus del Hall' & vx

Adam Watson & vx

Henricus Smeyth\ Faber, & vx

Seruie (*i<?) — Nicholaus Nan-
son .

Summa— ij.«. viijyZ.

i iij.0.

• • • • i

Hij.ff.
vi.d.

• • • » 7

m].d.

i\i].d.

v].d.

uij. a.

HAUKE8WYK (HAWKSWICK).

Johannes Robertson & vx
Thomas Horner & vx
Thomas Horn & vx .
Nicholaus Bell' & vx
Willelmus Hurtscowe & vx
Thomas de Sallay & vx .
Johannes de Parys & vx .
Johannes Caluehyrd* & vx
Willelmus Bokson & vx
Thomas Arneclyff & vx .
JohanneB Lene & vx

Hi] .d.
iiij.0.

• • • «

mi. a.
mi .a.

• • 7

mi .d.

• • • • 7

lllj.tf.

vj.rf.

• • • • 7

lllj.tf.
• » • r 7
Hi) .d.

m • • • 7

lllj.tf.

• • • • 7

Hlj.ff.

Aiiot' de Haukeswyk, vidua, iij*. iiij.rt".

Alicia filia ejusdem . . uij.d.

Elizabetha filia ejus . . iiij.rf.

Elena seruiens ejusdem Anot 1 . iiij.rf.
Johannes de Malghom, de

Haukeswyk, & vx . . xij.rZ.
Summa— ix.*. ij.d.

Heltghfkld' (Hbllipield).

Willelmus Cam be, Constabu-

larius <fc vx . . . . inj.d.

Robertus Osbaldton k vx . uij.d.

Henricus Watson & vx . . inj.d.

Ricardus Tailliour & vx . . yjd.

Ricardus de Bedale & vx . Uij.d.

Willelmus Abraham k vx . \i\j.d.

Johannes Hyrd' & vx . i\ij.d.

Johannes Alius Thome k vx . uij.d.

Thomas de Kendall' k vx . \j.d.

Thomas Jonson & vx . . \iij.d.

Thomas de Vllay & vx . . iiij.<£.

Johannes Wyte & vx . . nij.d.

Johannes Twelfemen k vx . ih'j d.

Johannes Scharp k vx . iiij.rf.

Elias Daudson (Carpenter, see

below) & vx . . . vj.d.

Johannes de Stable k vx . iiij.d.

Johannes Emmotson k vx . inj.d.

Robertus de Stable & vx. . vj d.

Johannes de Bedale k vx . iiij.rf.

Robertus del Mon k vx . . iiij.d.

Adam de Syngleton (Gen til*,

see below) & vx . . . xij.rf.

Thomas de Knoll' & vx . xij.d.

Nicholaus Joner & vx . iiij.rf.

Ricardus Styrtanaue (?) & vx . iiij.rf.

Willelmus de Henley ct vx . Mij.d.

Willelmus de Kendale k vx . iiij.rf.

Willelmus de BedalP k vx . iiij.i.

Ricardus de Huton k vx . uij.d.

Nicholaus Harthacre k vx . iuj.d.

Ricardus Foxgyll' k vx . . uij.d.

Thomas de Yeller' k vx . . uij.d.

Johannes Hodson k vx . . iiij.rf.

Johannes Baehoner k vx. . uij.d.

§ Elias Daudson, Carpenter,

§ Adam de Syngleston,

Gentil'. v quia

Thomas de Knoll j supra

Thomas de Kendale I

Robertus del Stable !

SeruwnV — Ricardus filius Hen-

rici iiij.rf.

Johannes filius Henrici . . iiij.fi.

Adam filius Henrici . . iiij.rf.

Henricus Abraham . . . uij.d.

Willelmus Jonson . • . . \i\j.d.

Emma filia Roberti . . . iiij.rf.

Robertus Thomson .

Edmundus filius Elie

Isabella vx Hugonis

Alicia seruiens Hendeley .

Adam de Bedale

Johannes filius Willelmi de

Kendale
Isabella filia ejusdem Willelmi
Summa — xvij.#. \iij.d.

Heton' (Hetton).

Willelmus Chyldson k vx
Johannes Wyld' k vx
Johannes Tailliour k vx .
Johannes Smyth', Faber, k vx
Willelmus Cowper k vx .
Willelmus Jakknaue k vx
Patriciu8 Hyrd' & vx
Robertus Theshyrd' k vx
Johannes Soutolyer' k vx
Willelmus Sysson k vx .
Thomas Sysson & vx
Johannes Jakkesknaue & vx
Willelmus Pylyng' k vx .
Hugo Wylkynson k vx .
Hugo Paueson k vx
Thomas Wyllknaue k vx.
Hugo Addeson k vx
Seruient' — Nicholaus Couper

man ....
Johannes seruiens ejus .
Robertus Jakman Tailliour
Alicia filia Johannis Wylde
Elena seruiens JohanniB Som

erler' ....
Johannes seruiens Johannis

Smyth'
Willelmus filius Willelmi Cis-

son ....
Agnes soror Willelmi Sysson
Johannes Tomman Cisson
Thomas seruiens Thome Cys

son ....
Johannes Pellyngman
Katerina Henri woman
Matilda Collyng'
Willelmus Hodson .
Johannes seruiens Hugonis

Paweson
Johannes Wylleson
Willelmus de Knoll'
Johannes Toller'
Willelmus Hoghyrd'
Johannes Buke
Johannes de Morton
Thomas Abot .
Johannes West
Johannes Padmyreson

Summa — xiiij.*.

in] d.
inj.d.

• • • 4

mj.tf.
inj.d.

• • • • «

uij.a.

• * •

uij.a.
uij.a.

vj.d.

• • • • «

llij.tf.

• • • • f

uij .a.
vi .d.

• • • * *

mj.d.
mj.d.

• • • • f

mj.d.

• • • » i

n\j.d.
\nj.d.

• • • « y

mj.d.

• • • y

nij./f.

• • • ■»

uij.d.

• • • • m

mj.d.
iuj.d.
mj.d.

• • • 7

lllj.ff.

• • • • 9

111J .rt.
lllj.rt.

iuj.d.

lllj.rt.

» • *

mj.d.
mj.d.

• • • • *

nij.rt.

mj.d.
iu].d.

• • • • t

mi./i.

• • • • ■»

liij.//.

• • • • T

lllj.rt.

• • • • 1

lllj.rt.

mj.d.

• • • • ■»

111J./7.

• • • • *

lll].ff.

• • • • -J

lllj.rt.
lllj.ff.

• • • • _y

llij.ff.

• • • f

mj.ff.

• # t • y

ui).d.

• * • »

liij.r/.
nij.rt.

• • • • f

liij.ff.

Hobton' (Hgrton-by-Gisburk).

Johannes de ffamylthorp', Mer

cer, k vx
Johannes Rakesburgh', Mar-

chanty & vx
Willelmas de Hair k vx .
Henricus filius Ricardi k vx
Johannes de Pathenale k vx
Johannes de Pathenale senior

k vx ....
Gilbertus de Armelay k vx
Willelmus de Grene k vx
Alanus de Morley & vx .
Willelmus de Grettabarg' k v
Adam Diconson k vx
Thomas de Penelton, Text or, k

vx ....

Isabella Mancoll', Tewtrix
S/tm ienf— Elicia Blanchard '
Alanus filius Ade
Isabella Pykhan

Suraina— vij.*.

xij.//.

xij.//.
ill].//.

t • • V

nij.rf.

• • • * y

111] .//.

• • • • «

mi .a.

• • • • y

nil .a.
lllj.//.

• • • • f

nij. a.

• • • « 7

ni] .//.
mj.tf.

vj.rf.
vj.//.

• • • • 7

lllj.//.

• • • y

111}./!.

f • • • «

111]. A.

Kyghlay (Keighley).

Nicholaus de Kyghelay, Arrra-

tus .... iij.#.
Elena de Glaeenbroke, Hoxte-

vCly .....

Johannes de Co play, Marital, .
Willelmus de Vttelay k vx
Ricardus de Wode k vx .
Johannes Hogheson k vx
Willelmus Hogheson & vx
Robertas Webstre, Textor, k

Daue Godelyng', Faber\ k vx .
Johannes de Cloghe k vx
Robertas filius Walteri k vx .
Johannes Mylner& vx
Johannes Tayllionr, Cusor, k

Willelmus de Samines & vx .
Rogerus de Sammes & vx
Robertas de Benelandes k vx .
Johannes Walker 1 , ffullo, k vx
Johannes Wryght, Carpenter,

k vx ....
Ricardus filius Radulfi k vx
Thomas Johson k vx
Ricardus Akeworth' k vx
Adam del Wode & vx
Ricardus Sugden k vx
Robertas de Sugdeyn k vx
Ricardus de Leuenthorp' k vx
Johannes de Grenewod' k vx
Nicholaus del Clogh k vx
Johannes Hods on k vx .

• • • • T

, ui] .a.

ij.*.
xij.//.

• • • •»

in j. a.

• • « • *

in].//.

• • • -«

ill] .a.

• • • • 7

uij.//.

vj.d.

vj.//.

nij.//.

• • • t

ni] .a.

• • t • t

Hi] .a.
vj.//.

• • • • 7

ni] .a.

• • • 7

in] .a.

• • • *

nij.fl.
v].//.

vj.//.

• • a • 7

mi .//.
mj.ff.

• • • • f

ill] .if.
ni] .//.

• • • t

inj.//.

• * • • 7

lllj.//.

• • • y

mj .a.

• • • • 7

lllj.//.

• • • y

lllj.//.
lllj.//.

Robertas Hodson k vx
Johannes Stott (? read " Scott")

k vx .
WillelmUB de Schoir k vx
Johannes de Saltonstall' k vx
Willelmus Coke k vx
Johannes del Sammes k vx
Thomas de Denby k vx .
Willelmus Grane k vx .
Thomas Hudson k vx
Johannes Saltonstall k vx
Johannes de Laccokk 1 k vx
Johannes Jodson k vx
Adam fflechr' k vx .
Thomas de Lacokke k vx
Agnes de Newsom k vx (sic)
Agnes Joddoghter' k vx (jric)
Robertas filius ejusdem k vx
Anabella de Elom
Johannes Erell* k vx
Anabella de Thwaythes
Nicholaus de Thwaythes & vx
Ricardus Pape, Carpenter, k vx
Elena de Cloghe
Johannes filius Willelmi k vx
Thomas Grane k vx
Cecilia Scott .
Agnes de Allerton .
Elena filia ejusdem .
Elena Walker'
Willelmus Schaponta
Willelmus Bloke
Alicia seruiens Parson e
Johanna filia Elene .
Thomas Bennson

Summa — xxvi j .*.

• • • » *

ni].//.

a • • • t

ni].//.

« a • y

lllj.//.

• a • y

III].//.

• • • * *

111].//.

• • • • y

HI].//.

• • • • y

in). a.

• • • • y

111].//.

• a • a y

111].//.

• • • • 7

111].//.

• * » y

111].//.
111].//.

• • • • -f

111].//,
ill].//.

• • • y

111].//.
111].//.

a • • • 1

111].//.
111].//.

• • • f

111].//.

• • • » f

lllj.//.

• • • • J

111].//.

vj.//.

• • • • y

111].//.

• • • • T

111].//.
111].//.

• • • • y

111].//.
111].//,
lllj.//.

• • • a y

Hi].//.

• • • • J

ill].//.

• • • • J

ill].//.

lllj.rf.

tiiij.//.
ill].//.

Ketilwell* (Kettlewell).

Willelmus Cowper k vx
Willelmus Walays k vx
JohannesTailliour Parws ("Par

vus "?), Ci8*or, k vx .
Willelmus de Preston k vx
Johannes Tailliour, de HylT, k

Ricardus Webstre, Cigtor, k vx
Willelmus Dobson k vx .
Willelmus Toppayn k vx
Willelmus de Bordlay k vx
Willelmus Yeke k vx
Ricardus de Bowghland' k vx
Willelmus Bellerby k vx .
Thomas Schawe k vx
Adam Wyllson k vx
Willelmus Ward' & vx
Thomas filius Isabelle & vx
Ricardus Cowper' k vx .
Ricardus Cale k vx

lllj.f/.
111].//.

vj.//.

• • » y

HI].//.

• • • • y

lllj.//.

V]'.//.

lllj.//.

• • • • 7

lllj.//.

• • 7

lllj.//.

a • ft • 7

lllj.//.

• • • • 7

lllj.//.

• a • 7

lllj.//.

a a • a 7

111].//.

• a a • 7

lllj.//.

• a • • 7

111].//.

• • a a 7

lllj.//.

• a • • 7

lllj.ff.

Johannes filius Hugonis & vx
Willelmus Clerke & vx .
Johannes Toppan & vx .
Willelmus Thomson & vx
Johannes Bullok & vx
Thomas Milnerson & vx .
Ricardus Euerhyrd 1 & vx
Willelmus filius Ade & vx
Ricardus de S tod lay & vx
Johannes Smyth', Fabar, & vx
Elias Hyrd' & vx .
Johannes Bullok & vx
Johannes Milner & vx
Willelmus Forstre & vx .
Robertus Smytheman & vx
Willelmus de Bakhowse & vx
Johannes Nabillson & vx
Henricus GrenfelP, Emptor

bftt\ & vx
Willelmus de Midlesmore & vx
Willelmus Henriman & vx
Struirnt' — Matilda de Ryplay
Thomas filius ejus .
Thomas Toppan
Sibbella Bern ten* Willemi filii

Thome
Johanna (?) Jaksonbuw (?)
Agnes de Stud lay
Willelmus filius Willelmi Ward
Agnes de Rowland' .
Willelmus de Lvtten
Isabella Ward' *
Emma filia ejus

Summa — xix.*. x.//.

mi. //.
m].d.

• • • • 3

111].//.

mi .//.
i •• » »

111] .A.

• •• • 3

in] .a.
in].//,
nij.//.
Hi]. a.
vj.//.

• • • 3

111]./!.

• • • • 3

111].//.

• • • «

Hi] .a.

111].//.

• • • • 3

mj.a.

111] .A.

• • y

111].//.

xl./f.

• • • t

m). a.

111].//.
111].//.

• • • • 3

ill].//,
nij.//.

• * • • 7

Hi] .a.

• • • • «

ill] .a.
ill] J .a.

• • • • 3

nij.//.

• • • • 3

mi.//.

mi .a.
... » «
in] .a.

• • • • 3

in] .//.

Kyldwyk' (Kildwick).

Robertus Wyld' & vx
Johannes de Hardwyk & vx
Willelmus Fowrnays & vx
Johannes Howsinan & vx
Laurencins filius Petry & vx
Philippus de Brad lay & vx
Johannes Hardwyk man & vx
Ricardus Peke servient Ricardi

& vx
Johannes Clerke & vx
Ricardus Schephyrd' & vx

Summa — iij.*. iiij.//.

• • • 3

nn.rf.

• • • • 3

mj.a.

• • • • «

nij.//.

• • • • *

mj.a.

• • • • 3

ill]. a.

• • • • m

nij./x.

• • • • *

in], a.

• • • » 3

in j. a.

• • • • «

ui] .a.

• • * 3

lllj .a.

Kyrkby (Kibkby Malham).

Willelmus Seriantson & vx . iiij.//.

Willelmus Kychyne & vx . iiij.//.

Robertus de Poxton & vx . iiij.//.

Johannes de Aston & vx . iiij.//.

Willelmus de Grene & vx
Thomas Nableson & vx .
Petrus del Hair & vx
Willelmus Stothyrd' & vx
Ricardus de Sallav & vx
Robertus de Stephen & vx
Sabyna Tottedoghter'
Agnes servient Willelmi Stot

hyrd ....
Johannes Tailliour, Cissor, & vx
Thomas Walker', Fullo, & vx
Summa -v.*.

• • • *

1111.0.

• • • • »

in] .d.

• • y

111] .A.

• • a m

ni] .a.

• • • . 3
lllj.//.

...» J

iiij.//.
lllj.//.

• • • «

111].//.

vi.//.
v].//.

Lanocltff' (Langclifpb).

Willelmus filius Thome & vx
Willelmus filius Ade & vx
Laurencius filius Ade & vx
Laurencius filius Johannis & vx
Willelmus ffyschr' & vx
Willelmus Prest & vx
Thomas Forester 1 & vx
Ricardus de Carr & vx
Edmundus Suerdson & vx
Thomas Ineson & vx
Thomas Robertson & vx
Johannes de Armetstede & vx
Seruientes — Ricardus filius

Laurencii
Alicia vx Ade .
Agnes filia Nicholai
Matilda de Thorp'
Matilda filia Willelmi
Emma ffyscher'
Cecilia filia Willelmi
MatheuB ffyscher 1 .
Agnes Prest
Alicia filia ejusdem
Patricius Syke

Summa — viij.*. iiij.//.

a« * a f

111].//.

mi. a.

a a • m

lllj.//.

a a • a *

lll].ff.

• • a a «

111].//.

t • • • "»

111] ./I.

• a • » f

111].//.

a a • a «

111].//.
111].//.

x\).d.

• • • a «

111].//.

a a • • ■•

lllj.//.

a a • a «

111].//.

• a a* f

111].//.

a • • k *

HI].//.

a • • a *

111].//.

a a a J

111}.//.

a a a • m

111].//.

• • a a «

HI].//.

a a a a «

111].//.

• a a _y

111].//.

a a a * m

111].//.

a • a a «

111].//.

LTNtON' (Linton-in-Craven).

Adam Wryght, W(f)egkt, k vx
Walterus Elys, Wright, & vx .
Willelmus Dawnay,jf?////i, & vx
Laurencius de Lynton & vx
Willelmus de Malghom & vx
Willelmus Brimsall' & vx
Willelmus Walok & vx
Thomas de Sowth & vx
Hugo Clerke & vx .
Adam Derehog' & vx
Ricardus Piper" & vx
Seruient'— Willelmus servient
Malghom .

vj.rf.
vj./Z.
vj./Z.

a • a a «

lllj.//.

xij./Z.

• • • a *

111].//.

• a « a m

111].//.

a a a a «

111].//.

a a a a «

HI].//.

a a a a m

111].//.

a a a a f

111].//.

a a a a ■•

111].//.

Johannes sentient rectorie
Willelmus sentient ejusdem

Rectoris . .
Alicia sentient Rectoris .
Adam filius Henrici
Johannes Wattson de Elys
Emmota sentient Johannis filii

Henrici
Alicia ffrost

Isolda filia Ade Derehoge
Johannes de Stokton
Alicia filia Henrici Milner
Rogerus Milner
Henricus Milner

Summa— Lr.*. ij.//.

Litton 1 .

Elias Clerke k vx .
Ricardus Stapter k vx
Adam Midlesmore k vx .
Johannes fill as Willelmi k vx
Willelmus filius Ade k vx
Thomas de Sal lay k vx .
Robertas de Palay k vx .
Thomas Deyne k vx
Willelmus ffranynlan & vx
Edmundus Yonger k vx .
Rogerus filius Thome k vx
4dam de Blakburn k vx
Thomas Stele k vx
Thomas Gamle k vx
Rogerus filius Walteri k vx
Johannes de Lytton k vx
Simon Bankson k vx
Johannes filius Elie k vx
Elias filius Willelmi k vx
Henricus de Adlay k vx
Thomas Lene k vx
Johannes Ke til well' k vx
Johannes filius Thome k vx
Laurencius de Ketilwell' k vx
Alicia filia Ricardi
Agnes filia Ricardi
Magota de Sallay
Willelmus sentient Willelmi

filii Ade
Agnes Clerke .
Elena sentient Willelmi filii

Ade ....
Matilda filia Laurencii .
Agnes Pyme .
Henricus filius Rogeri
Johannes Lokece
Isabella fframolan .
Thomas filius Elie .
Willelmus Lene •

Summa — xij.*. x,//.

• • a 7

lllj.//.

• • • • 7

nii.tf.
inj.//.
iiij.//.

• t • 7

111] .</.

• a • a 7

lllj.//.

nij.//.

• • * 7

nij.//.

• * • 7

mi.//.

• a • » J

111].'/.

a a • » «

iu].d.
m] J.

• • • • »
mi .a.

• a • » j

lllj.//.

Hi].//,
iiij.//.

111].//.

a* a* *

111].//.

iiij.//.
lllj.//.

• • a > *

mi. a.

VJ.//.

a a • *

ui] .a.
in]. a.

• • • • «

111]. A.

• • • 7

in] .a.

uij. a.

vj.//.

HI].//.

• • • • 7

Ulj.//.

• a a 7

111].//.

• a • • «

mi .a.

(•n 7

ill].//.

VJ.//.

iiii.rf.
» ••» »
lin.a.

a • • • 7

111].//.

• • • a f

111].//.
HI}.//.

111].//.

iiij.//.

• • a *

111].//.

• • a m j

HI].//.

t • * a 7

111].//.

• • • a m

111].//.

• • at 7

111].//.

a a • • f

111].//.

.•••I 7

111).//.

Balohom (Malham).

Richardus de Dale k vx
Willelmus Richardson k vx
Robertus de Wod' k vx
Adam Tomson & vx
Willelmus Hodson k vx
Robertus de Cote k vx
Ricardus Walche k vx
Willelmus Richardson k vx
Adam Wyllson k vx
Robertus Crumbok' & vx
Willelmus de Steuen k vx
Willelmus de Wyndesouer'

vx ....
Thomas Jose k vx .
Johannes de Sallay & vx
Ricardus Wyndesouer & vx
Johannes Nottson k vx .
Ricardus del Mire k vx .
Johannes Hyne k vx
Adam Wylkokson k vx
Simon del Hall' k vx
Willelmus de Dene k vx
Ricardus Wilkokson k vx
Willelmus de Westsydhowse

k vx
Henricus de Grene k vx
Adam de Medlehewe k vx
Johannes de Kyrkby k vx
Johannes Akeson & vx
Willelmus Swyer' k vx
Seruient — Henricus Spuner'
Henricus del Hair
Johannes filius Ade Wylkokson
Ricardus Wylyn
Robertus Qwytheued
Jahannes Browne
Johannes sentient Ricardi Ay

kokson
Henricus sentient ejusdem
Johannes de Crumbok
Richardus Hardy
Thomas Golgill' . ,
Thomas Swyer 1
Alicia de Yowdall'
Agnes Brukne (/), Textrix,
Agnes Webstre, Textrix,
Johannes Tail Hour, Cittor,
Summa — xvj.*. ij,//.

t a a a 7

111].//.

• • a • *

111].//.

a a a* 7

111].//.

a • a a w

111].//.
HI].//.

a • a a -m

111].//.

• a » a 7

111].//.

• • a 7

injur.

a • • a f

lllj.//.

• a a m

lllj.//.
lllj.//.

vj.//.

• a a •

111].//.

• • • • 7

inj.//,
vj.//.

lllj.//.

a a a a 7

lllj.//.

a • • a ^

lllj.//.

a • * a *

lllj.//.

• a a a 7

lllj.//.

a a a 7

lllj.//.

xij //.
mj .a.

• • a • «

lllj.//.

a a * a •»

lllj.//.

a a a a -f

111].//.

lllj.//.

• a • 7

lllj.//.

a a • • 7

lllj.//.

• • • • 7

lllj.//.

a • 7

nij.//.

• • a * 7

lllj.//.

• • a « j

mj. a.
lllj.//.

• • • 7

inj.//.
nij.//.

a a • 7

lllj.//.

a a a • 7

lllj.//.

• 9 a 7

lllj.rf.

a • a • 7

lllj.//.

vj.//.
vj.//.
vj.//.

Mabtok'.

Symon de Marton, ad valen-

ciam Militia, . . . xxj.

Robertus de Rylay k vx . iiij.//.

Johannes Taburner' k vx . iiij.//.

Henricus Tail Hour, Drapur, k

vx vj.//.

Johannes de Lethelay k vx
Thomas de Londesdale & vx
Ricardus Leget k vx
Robertas Perkynson k vx
Adam Knyght k vx
Johannes Spenloue, Ciuor, k

vx ....

Johannes Hyrd' k vx
Nicholaus Hyrd' & vx
Patricius & vx
Johannes de Grene, Fabar, k

vx ....

Willelmu8 de Stok & vx
Robertas Ireland k vx
Simon Tailliour, Ciisor, k vx
Will el my us Hyrd' k vx
Johannes Turnebuir k vx
Alanus Hyrd' k vx
Ricardus Webstre, Webster, k

vx ....

Johannes filius Edmundi & vx
Galfridus Milner k vx
Robertas de Medop k vx
Johannes Oxynhyrd' k vx
Johannes Graneson <fc vx
Johannes Wyllion k vx
Johannes Turnbull' seruiens

domini & vx
Johannes Bateman & vx
Willelmus de Londesdale k vx
Robertas de Lethelay k vx
Agnes Grane

Robertas S my the k vx .
Sentient' — Nicholaus seruiens

Recto ris
Johannes de Arneclyff
Johannes de Thorneton .
Agnes written* domini .
Johanna seruirnt domini
Alicia de Papillyngton .
Cecilia Grane
Agnes de Lethelay
Matilda Grane

Summa— xxxv.«. iiij.rf.

• • • • V

inj.tf.

• • • • *

nij.ff.
vj.rZ.

• • • • ••

u\\.d.

• • • i

mj.a.

vj.rf.
n lj .a.

• a a *

mi .a.

• • • • t

nij.0.

vj.d.
li lj. rf.

• ft • a «

mj.tf.
xij.rf.

• a • • 9

uij.a.

• • • • y

lllj.rf.

• • • • n

mj.a.
vj.<f.

• a a • y

lllj.tt.

inj.«.

lllj.ff.

a • • a 1

111J.0.

• a • a *

1111 .a,
lllj.rf.

• • t a f

111J.A.

a a • a f

lllj.ff.

• • a* <f

lllj.tf.

• a a a 1

Ulj.rf.
Ulj.rf.

vj.r/.

a • • • «

lllj.ff.

a a a *

lllj.ff.

a 4 a a f

lllj.tf.

• a a • *

lllj.tf.

• a • a f

lllj.fl.

• a • a f

lllj.rt.

• a a • «

lllj.fl.

• a • • «

lllj.ff.

a • a • «

lllj.rf.

Mydhop (Middop).

Johannes filius Ricardi k vx ,
Johannes Pyme & vx
Robertas de Mydhop', Arma-

tus, .... iij.*.
Robertus A n toy n son, Mercer, .
Willelmus Daldreston, Spicer,
Willelmus Redcarr' k vx
Willelmus de Waddes worth k

vx
Edmundus de Ayereton k vx .
Ricardus de Caluerlay k vx .
Willelmus ffox Ac vx

• a a • m

lllj.rf.

• * a • Y

lllj.tf.

• a • a f

lllj.rt.
xij./f.
xij.rf.

a a a • f

lllj.ff.

a • a a f

lllj.rt.

a a • -j

1111. <I.

• • a • «

mj d.

a a a * «

lllj.fl.

Johannes filius Gilberti k vx
Johannes Parker' & vx
Seruient' — Willelmus filius Ro-

berti de Medhop
Isabella Robertdoghter'
Agnes semiens predicti Roberti
Matilda Redicarr'
Agnes Waddesworth'
Agnes filia Gilberti
Robertus Bald res ton
Isabella soror ejusdem .
Alicia soror ejusdem

Summa — xj.j. iiij.i.

MlTTON'

Henricus de Biri (•' g " in mar

gin) k vx
Johannes Yoman k vx
Willelmus Sothorn k vx
Adam Scharp & vx
Hugo fflecher' k vx
Johannes Downall k vx
Johannes Allok k vx
Johannes Wodward' & vx
Willelmus Cowper* k vx
Johannes de Carlton' k vx
Thomas Wodward' k vx
Johannes Wattson k vx
Johannes Tyteryngton k vx
Walterus Palfrayman k vx
Willelmus Yoman & vx
Johannes Mody & vx
Haukyn Talbotman k vx
Johannes Adamson k vx
Johannes Scot k vx
Henricus de Biri & vx
Johannes filius He(n)rici de

Biri & vx
Alicia de Yate
Agnes del Parke
Isabella Botterfeld'

Summa— x.«

• • • a m

IHJ.0.

in] a.

m m a • a>

mj.a.

a • a a «■

nij.tf.

• • a m

in) d.
iii].«.

• a a a m

mj.a.

a • a a -m

lllj.tf.

a a • • -V

mj.a.

a •• • ■»

111].«.

lj.*.

a a • a «

mj.a.

lll].a\

• • a a f

lllj.rf.

• • • a *

mj.a.

• a a «

HlJ.tf.

• • • a J

mj.a.

a • a • *

111]. rf.

a * a a «

lllj.rf.

a a a • «

UlJ.ff.

• a a a f

in j a.

mj.a.

• a • a «

in]. a.

a a a a «|

in]. a.

• a a a •■

lllj.rf.

a a a * *

mj.a.

a t • • m

mj. a.

a a a a *

Hi] .a.

a • a • «

Hi]. a.

a a a * m

Ulj.fl.

• • • a j

lll].rf.

• a a a ••

lll].tf.

a a a a ••

Ulj.tf.

• a « a ^

111].*.

Newbom' (Nbwsholme).

Johannes Pedder' & vx . . iiij.rf.

Adam de Grene & vx . . iiij.rf.
Edmundus de Grene, Mercator,

k\x \j.s.

Johannes de Grene, Draper,

k vx . . . . xij.[>U

Willelmus Heker' k vx . iiij.rf.

Johannes filius Ade k vx . iiij.rf.

Willelmus de Newsoin & vx
Johannes filiua Rogeri & vx
Johannes filius Ricardi & vx
Johannes Elysinagh' & vx
Robertus Brewer' & vx
Robertus Toller' & vx
Robertus Walker' & vx
Johannes Kempe & vx
Johannes Cant & vx
Seruient' -Johanna filia Will

elini
Alicia Bee

Elizabetha vx Haker'
Margareta de Marlay
Johannes filius Johannis filii

Ricardi
Katerina soror ejus
Alicia soror ejus
Johannes filius Elysmaghe
Thoma (*«>) frater ejus
Amya filia Toller*
Alicia Qwene
Willelmus filius Cant
Johannes frater ejus

Suuiina — xj.*. viij.o'.

»■ • • j
1113 .ft.

111 j a.

• • • • m

nij.ft.

• • « • *

nij.ft.

• • • *

in], a.

• • • • «

nij .a.
nij.ft.

• • • *

nn.ft\
111] d.

• • • • *

in] .a.
iiij.rf.
mi d.

• n

ill] .a.

• • • • m

ui] .a.

lllj.ft.

• • • • J

ill] .ft.

• • • • «

mj.a.
iiij.ft.
nij.ft.

• • • • *

ui]. a.

» • • • m

myd.

• • • • 9

liij.ft.

Newton' juxta Gaybkgbaue.
(Bank Newton).

Johannes Bank, ffrankeleyn,

& vx ...

Willelmus Mabotson & vx
Robertus fforstre & vx
Adam Swyer' & vx
Willelmus filius ejus
Johannes Diconson & vx
Matilda ancillaipsius Johannis
Willelmus de Waldbank & vx
Willelmus Diconson, de Hor

ton, & vx
Alicia Bratholne
Adam Smythson & vx
Matilda Cortom, Trxtrto,
Robertus filius ejus
Elena filia ejus
Ricardus de Byngham & vx
Rogerus Smyth', Faher % & vx
Auelina de Caterton
Isabella de Puddesay
Ricardus del Hall' & vx
Rogerus Tailliour, Cissor, & vx
Rogerus filius Willelmi Mabot-
son & vx
Emniota de Newton
fteruiens Willelmi Mabetson
Thomas Nebe & vx
Seruiens ipsius Thome
Thomas de Lethelay & vx

xl.ft\

• • • • _j

in]. a.

• • • • 9

nij.ft.
nij.ft.

» * • t

mj.«.
ni].ft.

• • t

11 1]. a.

• • * • «

Hi], a.
nij.ft.

• • • • y

ill]. ft.

lllj.ft.

vj.ft*.

• • • • *

ui] .a.

* • • 1

mj.ft.

Hi] .ft.

vj.ft*.

• • «

Hi] ft.

nij.ft.

Hi] .a.

vj.ft\

• • • • v

nij.ft.

• • • »

nij.ft.

• • • f

nij.ft.

• • • • f

nrj.ft.
nij.ft.

• • • *

111 j .«.

Thomas Latimer & vx
Robertus Holdemes & vx
Hugo Smyth' & vx
Willelmus de Marton & vx
Adam de Kendall' & vx
Johannes de Vicars & vx
Johannes Bakster & vx
Katerina filia ejus

Summa — xiiij.«. x.ft*.

• t • -j

nij.a.

nij.a.
... * .
in] .a.

• • • • *

Hi]. a.

• • t • 1

in] .a.

• •• • m

111] ft.

nij.ft.

• • • •

in], ft.

Newton' in Bowland',

Radulphus de Claghton & vx
Robertus de Hamerton & vx
Nicholaus Hanson & vx
Johannes Symson & vx
Johannes filius Johannis & vx
Adam de Butterfeld' & vx
Adam Rud' & vx
Johannes Cam be & vx
Adam Milner & vx
Willelmus de Lye k. vx
Johannes de Peny & vx
Alanus filius Willelmi & vx
Nicholaus Cambe & vx
Ricardus de Rau thine IT & vx
Ricardus de Sykes & vx
Johannes Marler' & vx
Ricardus filius Simonis & vx
Adam Stout & vx
Henricus filoyter' & vx ,
Johannes Bell' & vx
Seruient'— Eliot' Scott
Elias Wyllson
Johannes Rud'
Stephanus do Knoll'
Ricardus de Bather Bby

Summa— xj.*. viij.rf.

• • • m

111 J. 4.

• • • • m

111]. ft.

9 • • • *

nij.ft.

• • • «

nij.ft.

• » • «

nij.ft.

• • « • m

lllj.rf.

• • • * «

111]. ft.

• • • • m

111] .ft.

• • • • m

nn.d.

• • • -m

nij.ft.

• • • f

nij.ft.
nij.ft.

• » • • m

111]. ft.

• • • • t

nij.ft.

• • • m

nij.ft.
• . • • «
nij.d

111].^-

• • *

lllj.ft.

• ft • • «

nij.ft.

• • • • *

nij.ft.

• • • • 1

nij.ft.

nij.d.

nij.ft.

ij.*.

Oterburn (Otterburn).

Willelmus de Brad lay & vx
Johannes Chyld' & vx
Willelmus filius Roberti &
Johannes Medvlhowe & vx
Ricardus filius Henrici &
Willelmus Maldson & vx
Johannes Bolyngton & vx
Willelmus de Bolyngton

Smyth, & vx
Johannes Setle & vx
WillelmuB Nayler' & vx
Henricus Jamsman & vx
Johannes Lamberd' & vx
Thomas Lambhyrd' & vx

•• • 9

in]. ft.

• • • «

nrj.ft.
nij.ft.
nij.ft.
liij.ft.

• • • • i

nij.ft.
nij.ft

• • • 7

nij.ft.

• • • • f

nij.ft.

• • • • f

nij.ft.

• • • • *

nij.ft.

• • • • 1

in]. ft.

Seruient' — JohanneB de Bol-
yngton .... iiij.**.

Alicia de Skypton . . iiij.**.

Matilda seruwns Johannis de
Setle .... iiij-rf-

Summa — v.*. vj,rf.

Pathorn (Paythorne).

Johannes de Bradlay & vx . inj.d.

Henricus de Holm & vx . iiij rf.
Willelmus Leinyng', Sutor, &

vx xij.//.

Ricardus de Syndeyn & vx . iiij.rf.

Willelmus de Holm & vx ' . iiij.rf.

Ricardus Gold* & vx . . inj.d.

WillelmuB de Thone (?) & vx iiij.<*.

Willelmus Brown & vx . iii].<*.

Thomas del Hair & vx . iiij.<*.

Walterus Klkoc & vx . . iiij.rf.

RobertuB Alius ejusdem & vx iiij d.

Johannes filius ejus & vx iiij.rf.

Robertus del Scale & vx . iii].<*.

Robertus filius Rogeri & vx . iiij.rf.

Robertus Brown & vx . iiij d.

Johannes Brown & vx inj.d.

Ricardus de Skypton & vx . xij.tf.

Johannes filius Ricardi & vx . \i\].d.

Alicia filia Willelmi . . iii].«*.

Isabella filia Robert! . ijij.<*.

Emma filia Roberti . . iiij d.
Summa — viij.*. iiij.<*.

Pathenall' (Painley?).

Ricardus Alcok & vx . . ijjj.<*-

Johannes Elys & vx . . iiij.rf.
Willelmus de Horton, ffranke-

leyn, & vx . . . xl.rf.

Henricus de Chatburn & vx . iiij d.

Johannes Hayregry & vx . iiij d.

Thomas Waddester' & vx . iiij.rf.

Willelmus Schephyrd' & vx . inj.d.

Johannes de Holme & vx . iiij.rf.

Ricardus filius Ricardi & vx . iiij.rf.

Johannes Alcok & vx . iiij d.

Thomas Swynhyrd' & vx • . iiij.**.

Adam filius Rogeri & vx . inj.d.

Willelmus Porter' & vx . iiij.<*.

Johannes de Swyndeyn & vx iiij.^.

Robertus Fort & vx . . inj.d.

Thomas Grysse & vx . . iiij.<*.

Johannes de Pryston & vx . ilij--*^-

Johannes Wodcok & vx . iiij. d.

Amya Bullok . . . nij-d.

Alicia filia JohanniB de Holme iiij.rf.
Summa— ix.j. viij.rf.

Preston' (Long Preston).

Willelmus Thomson & vx
Galfridus Syse & vx ,
Anabella filia ejus
WillelmuB Sowter & vx .
Johannes Styrkhyrd', Smyth

& vx ...

Willelmus de Puddesay & vx
Willelmus de Dowland & vx
Agnes filia ejus
Johannes Nellson & vx .
Johannes Den ne son & vx
Henricus Jakson & vx
Johannes Lambhyrd' & vx
Johannes de Scale & vx
Anabella filia ejus
Adam de Bekelleworth', Spicer

& vx ...

Adam Denysson & vx
Thomas Warcop' & vx
Thomas Spenser 1 & vx
Willelmus Lammer & vx
Willelmus de Westwod' & vx
Hugo Spenser' & vx
Yuo Pape, Ctisor, & vx
Edmund us Barker', Barlter, &

vx ....
HenricuB Tailliour. Cis$or y &

vx ....
Henricus Rud & vx
Ricardus Sqwyer' & vx
Johannes de Bowland & vx
Johannes Robertson & vx
Ricardus Chattburn, ffvllo,

Va » • • •

Ricardus Wratholff & vx
Alicia Bathersby
Adam de Mytton & vx
Johannes fforester & vx
Johannes de Kendall' & vx
Adam Denyson & vx
Anabella de Carle ton
Willelmus de Wode & vx
Alicia Tybet

Johannes de Horneby & vx
Johannes de Bowland' & vx
Johannes Gilleson & vx
Willelmus Spenser' & vx
Adam de Wadby & vx

Summa — xv.*. vj.d.

iiij.rf.

• • • • %

nij.d.

• • • • «

nij.fl.
Yj.d.

v\.d.

n n. d.
•••* »
ni].a.

• • • • m

mj.d.

• • • 3

lllj.tf.

• • • *

1I1J.A.

• • • » •

Hi] d.

• • • m

ni].<*.

• • • • m

lllj.rt.

• • • • m

nij.a.
yj.d.

• • • *

\uyd.

• • • • *

liij.rf.

• • • • *

mj.tf.

. •• • j

ill] ./I.

• • • • •

ui].«.

liij d.

v].rf.

vj.d.

vj.d.
...» «
mj.d.

• • • • *
•• • • _3

ill] .a.
nij.a.

vj.d.

•»• • »
mj.a.

• •• «

in] .a.
ill] d.
mj.rf.

• • • • *

in] .a.

• • • • 9

111] .a.

mj.d.

• • • • 3

mj.a.
mj.d.

• • * 3

ill] .a.

• • «

ill]. a.
mj.d.

• • • _■

Hi] .a.
ill] d.

Rascheholne (Radholme ?)

Willelmus Scot & vx . . inj.d.

Eustachius de Pewot'thham (?) iiij.rf.

Ricardus de Rowland' &, vx . iiij.ci.

Ricardus Talbot & vx . . xij.i.

WillelmiiB Colthyrst k vx
RicarduB Profet k vx
Johannes Dawkyn k vx .
Johannes de Coke k vx .
Henricus Alius Ricardi k vx
Thomas de Yngholne k vx
Johannes de Wro & vx .
Ri card us de Sedale k vx
RobertuB Nodeler' k vx .
Johannes Reglesmyre and vx
Robertus de Oroke k vx
Willelmus Prefet k vx .
Willelmus de Staumford' k vx
Johannes Smeth' k vx
Adam Horn k vx
[Thomas Page, Flecker, k vx
Agnes Brand 1 ,

Petronilla de Brokhole*
Agnes Tornour
Beruienf — Johannes Nodeler'
Johannes Brand'
Willelmus Profet junior .

Summa— xj.jr. ij.o\

ij.*.
inj.a.

• • * • «

lllj.tf.

... » _j
lllj.0.

• • • » 3

mj.a.

• • • «

mj.a.
in] .a.
mj.a.

• • • • «

mj.a.
mi. a.
inj.a.
inj.a.

• • • *

mj.a.
mj.a.

• • • • T

mj. a.
vj .a*.

• • a • 1

lllj.tf.

• • • • jj

mj.a.

• • • • Y

mj.a.

• • • n

ni].a.
inj.a.

• • • • *

mj.a.

Rauchemell' (Rat hm ell).

Wilielmus de Cote k vx
Thomas filius Ade & vx
Johannes Saylebank k vx
Ricardus de Carr' k vx
Hugo Schether' k vx
Thomas Milner k vx
Ricardus filius Johannis k vx
Adam Camle (?) k vx
Johannes Godson k vx
Willelmus filius Ade & vx
Willelmus Swane k vx
Henricus Forster' k vx
Johannes Lyndsey k vx
Adam filius Ricardi k vx
Ricardus filius ejus k vx
Willelmus Kokheued' k vx
Willelmus Walesman k vx
Thomas filius Walter, k vx
Johannes filius Alani k vx
Willelmus Curtays k vx
Johannes Webstre, Text or, k vx
Willelmus filius Agnetis k vx
Willelmns Hendley k vx
Robertus filius Willelmi k vx
Willelmus de Gisburn k vx
Robertus filius Alane k vx
Servient' — Magota Daudwyfe
Matilda Daudoghter
Tillot' de Carr'
Alicia de Akedeyn
Anabilla Daugoghter' (*fo)
Matilda sorr.or ejus
Agnes de Broghton

t • • i
HI] .a.

• • • • T

mj.a.
iii].a\
inj.a.

• • • • n

mj.a.

• • • * *

in]. a.
mj.a.

• • • • «

mj.a.
nij.a.

• • • * 9

mj.a.

• • t 7

Hi] .a.

• • • • n

mj.a.
mj.a.

• • • • *

mj.a.

• « • • f

inj.a.
mj.a.

• • • • m

mj.a.

• • • • i

mj.a.

• * • • 9

mj.a.

• • » «

ni]. a.
vj.a\
mj.a.
mj.a.
mj.a.
mj.a.

• • a • 9

mj.a.

• • • • i

iuj.a.

• • • • t

mj. a.

• • • • *

mj.a.
iiij.a\

• • • «

Hi] .a.
mj.a.
inj.a.

Willelmus Rydhowt . iiij.a\

Johannes Daudson . iiij.a*.

Summa — xj.«. x.a*.

Rtmynoton (Rimington).

Jacobus de Gasegill', Armatus.
Willelmus de Gyrlyngton k vx
Henricus Dogeson k vx .
Johannes de Clynacher k vx
Johannes del Smethy k vx
Robertus del Stanes k vx
Robertus Barker' k vx
Willelmus Baudwy n,ffullo, k vx
Robertus Walays k vx
Robertus del Smethy k vx
Johannes Merler' k vx
Willelmus Weter' k vx .
Johannes Rchirfeld' k vx
Johannes Walays k vx .
Robertus Butterberd', Suter

k vx ....
Thomas de Barton & vx
WillelmuB filius Henrici k vx
Johannes de Lound' & vx
Adam Porter k vx
Johannes de Welles k vx
Edmundus de Loge k vx
Thomas del Dale k vx .
Willelmus Baudwyn k vx
Willelmus Rygby k vx .
Adam Leleson k vx
Johannes Odde k vx
Johannes Schephyrd' k vx
Thomas Boythorp' k vx
Willelmus de Ayreton k vx
Nicholaus Pykhauer k vx
Robertus de Caluerlay k vx
WillelmuB de Caluerlay k vx
Hugo Sawgher' k vx
Henricus de Caluerlay k vx
Johannes del Hyll' k vx
Willelmus Pyee k vx
Willelmus filius Henrici k vx
Willelmus de ffountayns. Car-
penter, & vx
Johannes Tournour, Tourrwur,

& vx

Johannes Tailliour, Cis8or,k vx
Willelmus Stodehird, Carpers

ter, & vx
Willelmus Hudson, Text or, k vx
Seruientes — Beatrix de ffun-
taignes ....

Cecilia de SulbergV
Johannes de Sullebergh*
Robertus Beruiens Robert! de
Caluerlay ....
Alicia de Chatburn

xl.rf*
ni] .a'

• • • • m

lllj./f'

• • • • «

ni] .a*

• • • • «

mj.a*
in j .rf*

inj.a-

vj.rf.

mj.a.

inj.a.

• • • • 9

uij.a.
inj.a.
mj.a.
mj.a.

vj.a\

• • • • «

mj.a.
mj.a.
nij. a.

• • • • *

nij.rt.
iuj.a.

« • • • y

ni] .a.
mj.a.

• • • • *

mj.a.
nij.a.

t • • m

ni] .a.
mj.a.

• • • * m

ni].a.

• • • • y

iuj.a.
mj.a.

• • • • *

ni] .a.
mj.a.

• • • *

nij.a.

• • • • «

mj.a.

• • • m

ni] .a.

• • • • f

inj.a.

• • • • »

inj.a.

• • • «

ni] .a.

xij.rf.

vj.d.
YJ.d.

vj.</.
vj.a*.

nij.a.

• • • «

ni]. a.
mj.a.

inj.a.
mj.a.

Johannes de Hawesgill'

Cecilia Pykhauer' .

Magota Nutte

Matilda Pykhauer .

Katerina filia Heretnpte

Margareta filia Willelmi Py

Johanna Bower'

Juliana de Sulbergh'

Elizota filia Hugonis

Alicia de Caton

Magota Duyott'

Hugo Coke

Jeppe de Hesilden .

Til lota Webster

Isabella relict a Hugonis Tail

Hour ....
Alicia relic ta Johannis de Hoi

gilP .

Samma-xxvA iiij.rf.

• • • • y

mj.o.

• • • • i

mj.a.

a • • y

mj.a.

• • • * y

mj.a.

• • • • y

nij. a.

• • • • y

mj.a.

• B • ft y

lllj.rf.

• • • y

lirj.a.

• • • • y

mi. a.

• • • • y

mj.a.

ft ft • » y

nij. a.

• • • y

inj. a.

• • • • _r

mj.a.

• • • * y

mj.a.

• • • y

mj.a.

• • • y

mj.a.

Ryllston' (Rylstone).

Willelmus de Releston, dominus
ville, .... iij.*.
Johannes filius Ade & vx
Johannes filius Elie k vx
Henricus Sclater' k vx .
Johannes Day & vx
Johannes Webstre, Webster \

oC VX . . . •

Thomas Chalunner k vx

Thomas Slafot & vx

Willelmus Hyrd k vx .

Johannes Watson k vx .

Robertus Hyrd* k vx

Willelmus filius Roberti & vx

Robertus Milner k vx

Robertus Banesclytf (&) vx

Thomas Jonson k vx

Thomas filius Elie & vx .

Johannes de Mitton k vx

Thomas Chese k vx

Elias Magson k vx

Adam de Merehowse k vx

Thomas Milner k vx

Willelmus Brown k vx .

Johannes filius Heginaldik vx

Sentient* — Willelmus Browne

Magota le Nuris

Agnes sentient Johannis de
Morehowse .

Agnes de Brad lay .

Alicia de Haunlyth'

Agnes wruiena Johannis Wat-
son ....

Agnes &emiens Roberti le
Milner

Alicia filia Roberti de Banes-
clyff ....

• • • y

mj.a.

i • • • f

mj.a.
mj.a.

• • • • y

mj.a.

• • • • y

mj.a.

vj.a\
vj.a*.

• • • • •

mj.a.

• • • • *

mj.a\

• • « • y

mj.a.
mj.a.

• • • • y

liij.rf.

• • • • y

mj.a.

• • • • *

mj.a.

ft • • • y

mj.a.

• • • • y

mj.a.

• • • • y

mj.a.

• • • • y

mj.a.

• • • • j

in] .a.
mj.a.

• p • • y

mj.a.

• • • • T

inj.a.

• • • y

mj.a.

• • • * y

mj*a.

• • • • *

mj.a.

• • • • *

ill] .a.

• • • y

mj.a.

• • • • j

in] .a.

• • « • y

mj.a.

• • • • 7

mj.a.

• ft » y

in] .a.

Willelmus Mitton son . . \i\j.d.

Alicia filia Thome Chese . iiij.o*.

Summa — xiiij.*, iiij.o*.

SCOTHORP' (SCOSTHBOP).

Ricardus de Calton k vx . iiij.o*.

Thomas Maknest k vx . . iiij.o'.

Willelmus Clerke, Scriptor, k vx vj.a*.

Thomas Steuenson k vx . iiij.o*.

Johannes Pymson k vx . iiij.o*.

Johannes Hyne k vx . . iiij.o*.

Adam Robynson, Ciesor. k vx vj.o*.

Henricus Pynder' & vx . . nij.a*.

Thomas Robyson, Faber, k vx yj.o*.
Seruient'— Thomas filius Ade

Robynson k vx . iiij.o".

Matilda Yowhyrd' . . iiij.o\

Isabella Barker* . . . iiij.o\

Thomas Browne . . . iiij.o*.

Isabella Aylyn . . . iiij.o*.

Cecilia Wylyn . . . iiij.o*.
Johannes seruiens Willelmi

Clerke .... iiij.a*.
Summa— v.*. x.o*.

Setlk (Settle).

Johannes de Wadyngton & vx
Simod' Nicolson k vx
Laurencius Nell son k vx
Johannes Walker' k vx .
Robertus Betonson k vx
Robertus Nellson k vx .
Willelmus Sclater' & vx .
Willelmus de Lyndesay k vx
Johannes Smeth' & vx
Willelmus Broket k vx .
Robertus de Clare k vx .
Willelmus Wayt & vx .
Adam filius Willelmi k vx
Willelmus de Clore k vx
Adam de Ottlay & vx
Rogerus SnelT k vx
Johannes de Hege k vx
Adam de Grene k vx
Simon Kyd' k vx .
Willelmus Brunson k vx
Johannes de Langeclyffe & vx
Thomas de Kyme k vx .
Thomas Schayl' k vx
Simon Belhyrd* k vx
Willelmus Lauson k vx
Willelmus de Ouersetle k vx
Johannes Cleuache k vx

• • • • y

mj.a.

• • • • *

mj.a.

• • • *• y

inj. a.

• • • • y

mj.a.

• • • y

mj.a.

• • • • 9

mj.a.

• • • y

mj.a.
vj.a*.
vj.a*.

• • • • y

nij. a.
mj.a.
mj.a.

• • • • m

ill] .a.
m j. a.

• • • • y

mj.a.

• • • • y

mj.a.

• • * • y

mj.a.

• * • • y

mj.a.
in j .a.

• • y

in]. a.
mj.a.
iiij.o'.

• • • • y

n li. a.

• • • • y

mj.a.

• • • • *

iiij.o.

• • • • y

Ulj.O.

• • ft *

mj.a.

Thomas Megson k vz
HanricuB (sic) Helynson k vz
Johannes Blvth', Milner, k vz

lllj.rf

Johannes de Watre k vz
Johannes Baillie & vz
Thomas Manhyrd' & vz
Johannes Stele k vz
Willelmus Tyllson k vz
Thomas de Waddesworth' k vz
Willelmus Hunter k vz
Elias Neleson k vz
Johannes Dyrton k vz .
Magota de Ye 1 bank
Alicia de Gad by
Aimes Jonwyfe
Tillot* Clynch
Hugo de Burn
Willelmus filius Elie
Seruie («c)— Thomas Hunter-
man ....
Willelmus Lawghman
Nell' de Hege
Adam Broketman
Alicia de Lytton
Agnes Broket
Willelmus Toller

Summa — zvij.*. z.«\

• • • • m

mj.a.
(tic).

• • • 9

1111.0.

v].«*.

mj.a.

inj//.

mj.a.
• • • • j
mj.a.

• • • • t

luj .a.
mj.a.
nij .a.

lllj.«.

P • • f

ill] .a.

lllj.rt.

• • • • *

111].*/.

• • • • *

nij. a.

• • • • «

mj.a.
mi. a.
uij. a.
lili.rt.

lllj.fl.

mj.a.
nij .a.

SYGLESDEYN (SIL8DBN).

Johannes de Cote k vz .
Johannes Theker' & vz
Johannes Reder' & vz
Richardus filius Johannis k vz
Johannes Bate man k vz
Hugo Mylner & vz
Dauyd' Bene k vz .
Willelmus filius Roberti Smyth

& vz ....
Willelmus del Wod' k vz
Thomas Dobson & vz
Johannes Glushuro k vz
Robertus de Collyng' k vz
Johannes de Dent k vz
Robertus Jolby k vz
Adam Boghan k vz
Willelmus filius Agnetis k vz
ThomaB Milner k vz
Robertus Husteler', Sutor, k vz
Johannes Cowhyrd' k vz
Johannes Smyth' k vz .
Thomas del Stanes k vz
Robertus del Ouerheynd' k vz
Johannes de Ryllston k vz
Thomas de Suardby k vz
Amary k vz .
Henricus del Rode k vz
Thomas Smeth' k vz

• • • • «

mi .d.

• • * ■»

111]. A.

vj.o*.

• • » «

111], a.

mj.a.
nij. a.

• • • «

mj.tf.

nij .a.

vj.a\

nij .a.

• • • • t

nij .a.
nij .a.

• • • m

ui] .a.

• • • • m

mi. a.

• • • • i

mj.a.

• • • • f

nij.tf.

• • • • j

ni] .a,
vj.a\

• • • «

nij. a.
mi .a.
nij. a.

• • • • w

nii.0.

• • • * y

Hi] .a.

• p a p m

inj.a.
mj.a.

• • • i

lllj.tf.

nij .a.

Johannes Sowter k vz
Willelmus Wade k vz
ThomaB Bene k vz
Willelmus, sentient Willelmi

de Wode, & vz
Robertus, seruiens Roberti Jep

son, k vz
Johannes Chapman k vz
Thomas Jon son k vz
Willelmus Boghane k vz
Magota Coke
Matilda Wade
Elena Smeth' .
Matilda Pedler'
Alicia Smyth'
Alicia Bateman

Summa — ziiij.*. iiij.o'.

Skybdon' (Skibeden).

Hugo de Cottynglay k vz
Johannes de Marton k vz
Thomas de Mai gum k vz
Johannes Wy Hyson k vz
Johannes de Waller k vz
Willelmus de Malghom k vz
Henricus Rysphyll' k vz
Willelmus filius ejusdem k vz
Willelmus le Wode k vz
Johannes de Crakhowe k vz
Summa — iij.*. vj.o*.

Skypton' (Skipton).

Step nanus de Malgham, l>r^<?r,

k vz
Johannes Henkesworth',&jric?r

k vz
Robertus de Ledes, Mereator

& vz .
Robertus Bayllie k vz
Hugo Ha well' k vz
Willelmus Pulter' k vz .
Willelmus Dawson k vz
Thomas de Wrose k vz .
Willelmus Groper' k vz .
Robertus Wodhewer' k vz
Marinus de Thornton k vz
Petrus de Thorp' & vz
Thomas de Malghom, Cistar

k vz
Robertus Thorbrand, junior

Textor, & vz
Raynerus de Selesden, liar

beiour, & vz
Willelmus Serell' k vz .
Thomas ffele k vz
RobertuB Hyrd k vz

vj.o*.

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Johannes Dryucr' & vx .
Robertas Thorbrand senior k v
Petrus Pynder' k vx
Willelmus Mune k vx
Johannes Skypton k vx .
Johannes "Lnmbe. Jfullo, k vx
Johannes Warner' & vx .
Willelmus de Werdlay & vx
Adam filius Elie k vx
Henricus aeruicM Ranulphy

k vx
Willelmus Thorbrand 1 & vx
Johannes Groper' k vx
Willelmus Schyphird 1 k vx
Johannes Lassy, Carnifex, k vx
Willelmus Pvkhan k vx

Johannes Danald' & vx .
Willelmus Sparowe k vx
Willelmus Rogerson, Chsor, k

▼ i • • • •

Willelmus Clerke k vx
Thomas de Chambre k vx
Thomas Boynell' k vx
Roger u 8 de Sleue k vx
An toy n Tail Hour, Ci**or, k vx
Willelmus Walkere^wZZo, k vx
Willelmus filius Ranulphi,

Sutor, & vx
Robertas Spycer', Spyeer* k vx
Rogerus Roper', Jfoper\ k vx .
Petrus Brabaner, Webut er, k vx
Petrus Brabaynner junior,

Webstre, k vx
Robertus Mason, Ma ton y k vx
Willelmus Webstre, Webgter,

Qit * J*v • a • •

Johannes Doweson, Faber* kvx
Walterus Tail Hour, Ch*or^k vx
Willelmus Grane. Olover\ k vx
Johannes Launder 1 , Cisso?; k vx
Johannes Lorimer' k vx
Thomas Marescall' vx
Seruient — AgneB Bakstre
Radulphus written* Radulphi

Selesdeyn
Matilda Hyrd'
Alicia Doghty
Matilda de Cownall'
Willelmus wmien* Will el mi

Webstre
Willelmus Hodson .
Willelmus Battson (?)
Alicia Ben
Isabella Barker'
Johannes Grane
Thomas de Bentham
Alicia Semstre
Agnes Semestre
Agnes de Greues
Margareta Mayne
Margareta Bacone .

Summa — xxxv.x.

• t • 7

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Slaytburn' (Slaidburx).

Johannes de Cokfeld' & vx
Adam Brand' k vx
NicholauB Milner k vx .
Johannes de Hesylheued' &

vx .

Robertus Hattale k vx .
Willielmus Swayne k vx
Johannes Cawdray k vx
Robertus Smyth, Faber, k vx
Willelmus Dobson k vx
Willelmus de Stokdale k vx
Johannes Coll' k vx
Johannes filius Ricardi k vx
Willelmus Wodward' k vx
Willelmus Hattale k vx .
Coll' Badver' & vx .

Willelmus Boyd' k vx .
Johannes de Crosdale & vx
Willelmus Cowhyrd' k vx
Ricardus de Newhese k vx
JacobuB de Lyghe & vx .
Rogerus de Saghe k vx .
Ricardus Jakknaue k vx
Johannes Prestson k vx,
Robertus Brand' k vx
Johannes filius Willelmi k vx
Alan us Floyter' k vx
Johannes Halepeny, Tlwlter

k vx
Willelmus Coke k vx
Willelmus filius Johannis k vx
Johannes de Wallbank k vx
Willelmus Brand' k vx
Johannes de Plesyngton k vx
Johannes Heued' k vx
Robertus f rater ejus & vx
Robertus de Butterfeld' k vx
Willelmus Kvtson k vx .
Johannes de Stokdele k vx
Adam de Haldhgres k vx
Servient'— Willelmus de Wall

bank k vx .
Ricardus Hattale
Agnes Reglesmyre .
Johannes Diconson Jakknaue
Emma de ffyssw
Johannes Quelwryght, Carpefi

ter ....
Jdonia Darbyschyre
Agnes soror ejus
Hugo Paytfyn
Hawvsia del Schawe
Willelmus Brand'
Margareta seruien* ejus .
Isabella Paytfyn
Agnes Playnamour .

Summa — xvij.«. x./7.

• • • • i

1I1J./7,

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iiij./7.

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vj./f.

111J./T.

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nil.//.

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a • • • ■•

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Staynfobd' (Stainfobth).

Robertus de Staynford', domin
us Ville

Wiilelinus de Austwyk & vx
Willelinue filius Roberti k vx
Johannes Wayes k vx
Johannes filius Ricardi Tyll-

son k vx
Oilbertus Milner & vx
Johannes Lemyng' & vx
Stephanus Milner k vx .
Johannes Tomson k vx .
Hugo Coyllyer' k vx
Robertus Hvrd' k vx
Johannes Turpyn & vx .
Henricus Tomson k vx .
Johannes Preston k vx .
Thomas filius Ade k vx .
Wiilelinus Walker' & vx
Henricus de Braychawe k vx
Thomas Symson k vx
Johannes filius Willelmi k vx
Henricus de Laukland' k vx
Wiilelinus Schyrwod' k vx
Rica rd us Walays k vx
Robertus Tuilliour k vx .
Johannes ffeton k vx
Adam filius Roberti k vx
Adam Benhowre k vx
Thomas Emanson k vx .
Robertus Thomson k vx
Willelmus Walays & vx .
Kicardus de Crauen & vx
Robertus Mogson k vx .
Adam Derakes k vx
Sentient' — Agnes ffyscher'
Matilda filia Roberti
Robertus Gybson
Johannes Robynson Hyrd*
Summa — xxxi j .*.

Steueton' (Steeton).

Thomas Pereson, Husband', k

vx ....
Thomas filius ejusdem k vx
Laureucius de Estburn k vx
Thomas del Weste & vx
Willelmus filius Roberti k vx
WillelmuB de Stanes k vx
Ricardus de Vtlay k vx
Thomas filius Hugonis k vx
Johannes de Estburn k vx
Ricardus del Cote k vx
Johannes Mareschall' k vx
Agnes vx Ricanli de Kyghlay
Johanna relicta Johannis Sysson
Johannes Harower' k vx

• • • • 7

nij.a.
nij.a.

• • f » 7

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• • • • 7

lllj.a.

• • • • 7

iii].a.

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t • • • 7

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mj.a\

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• • 7

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11 11. a.

• • • • 7

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Robertus de Schyplay k vx
Thomas filius Willelmi k vx
Willelmus de Bradlay k vx
Robertus Walker' k vx .
Bobertus Pape k vx
Johannes Bretland' k vx
Johannes Syward' & vx .
Alicia relicta Hugonis Dauyson
Matilda Dauydoghter'
RicarduB Ryder', Textor, k vx
Seruientes Ville Johannes Hob-
son .
WillelmuB Hobson
Johannes seruiens Laurencii

de Estburn
Matilda filia Johannis Syward
Agnes de Elom
WillelmuB Ryder' .
Agnes soror ejusdem Willelmi
Alicia de Morton
Elena Baret
Agnes filia Johannis
Elyzabetha Gylledoghter'
Johannes filius Thome del West
Johannes Pape
Robertus le Mayre .

Summa — xij.*. x.o*.

• • • 7

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• • • • *

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mi .a.

• • • 7

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iuj.4.

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• • • * 7

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• • • 1 7

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Stretton' (Stibton).

Johannes Ferawnt k vx
Thomas Dauv k vx
Thomas de Hudrespale k vx
Johannes Lytsterson k vx
Hugo de Che*ton k vx
Willelmus Vttyng' & vx
Willelmus Lyghtfot k vx
Adam Grengore k vx
Johannes Rawghe k vx
Johannes Plesyngtonman k vx
Robertus Seriant k vx
Willelmus Glybdon ( 1 should

be *• Skybdon ") k vx
Willelmus de Wyndhows k vx
Thomas Wyllson k vx
Willelmus de Hall' k vx
Sentient* — Emma Chapman
Emma Kay
Margareta Cay
Thomas Styrke
Johannes Robertalepson sari ant
Agnes st: mien* Thome de Hud-

resall' .

Elena de Vttyng' .
Cecilia %eru'wn« Hugonis Ches-

ton . . . . .
Summa — vij.*. viij.o".

• • « • 7

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• * • 7

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• • • • 7

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• • • • 7

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• • • • 7

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mj.a.

Sutton'.

Johannes Harper k vx
Johannes Bryd' & vx
Willelmus Estburn & vx
Adam J on son & vx
Adam Alius Philippi k vx
Rogerus Harper k vx
Robertas de Coplay & vx
Thomas del Stans k vx .
Willelmus de Bent k vx
Johannes Baret k vx
Johannes Warelewythes k vx
Willelmus May re (?) k vx
\Villelmus Mason k vx
Willelmus de Coplay k vx
Alicia Harper'
Agnes vx Hugonis .
Alicia tilia Hugonis
Johanna de North wod'
Matilda del Stanes
Alicia tilia Hugonis
Johannes Baret jonior (*u?)
Summa — vij s. xrf.

SWENDEN (SWINDEN).

Johannes Symson & vx
RicarduB Symraane k vx
Nicholaus de Horton, Mercator

Best\ & vx
Willelmus de Setle k vx
Thomas de Wad by k vx
Johannes filius Johannis Hyrd

k vx
Edmundus Buriays k vx
Johannes de Morlay k vx
Johannes Browne k vx .
Agnes Symwyfe
Matilda Kay (?)
Alicia Spurkes
Agnes Pollerd
Margareta Buriays .
Seruient' — Thomas Symson
Thomas Jonson
Agnes Jondoghter'
Matilda *eniien$ Morlay
Alicia filia Johannis Browe {sic)
RicarduB Mareschall', Faber, .
Summa — viij*. vj.rf.

• • • • *

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Thornton' (Thornton-in-Craven).

Johannes Cokerell' k vx
Ricardus Schephyrd' k vx

• • • j*

nij.rf.
mj.rf.

Johannes Mody k vx
Thomas Cokerle k vx
Thomas de Fowtayns & vx
Elias de Hodlesdeyn k vx
Ricardus Wydyerd senior & vx
Thomas de Berdeyn k vx
Willelmus Walker* k vx
Johannes Byus k vx
Edmundus Gadder' & vx
Willelmus Euerhyrd' k vx
Elias Milner k vx
Johannes Gillson k vx .
Ricardus Wysteler' k vx
Johannes de Rylay k vx
Maykyn de Sythwrt k vx
Ricardus Lytster k vx
Thomas Smeyth' k vx .
Henricus filius Alicie k vx
Johannes Chawberlayn k vx
Hugo Huwetson k vx
Johannes Pyrler' k vx
Abell' Clerk k vx .
Johannes de Estburn k vx
Thomas de Estburn k vx
Johannes filius Roberti k vx
Adam Baudwyn k vx
Willelmus Styrke k vx .
Henricus Gayte k vx
Adam Smartrod' k vx
Johannes de Monkrod' k vx
Robertus de Wyke k vx
Willelmus de Kelbroke k vx
Johannes Wysteler' junior k vx
Johannes Wysteler' senior &vx
Henricus de Grene k vx
Johannes filius Willelmi k vx
Johannes filius Henrici k vx .
Johannes de Fowntayns, Car-
penter. & vx
Johannes Taylliour, Cissor^ k vx
Johannes Smeyth', Fabar^kviL
Agnes Lytster, Textrix,
Johannes Wyinarkson, CUtor.

& vx

Willelmus de Wetaker.' Cusov y

k vx

Johannes filius Regeri (?) k vx
Seruient' - Margareta Cokerell'
Oliuer servient Forster
Elana de Radclyf .
Johannes Euerhyrd'
Alicia vx Nicholai
Alicia Doflfe
Cecilia Brygdoghter'
Johannes Smartrode
Johannes seruiens Henrici Gay t
Isabella Lvtster, Textrix,
Willelmus" Forster'
Johannes de Cressy
Johannes Hobson
Magota de Bollyngton
Agnes de ffountayns

• • • • y

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Tillot' Hobwyff' . . . ffiw

Ricardus Wydyerd' junior . iiij.rf.

Isabella Brand' . . . iiij.a*.

Nicholaus Gaytknaue . iiij.a\

Summa — xxiij.*. vj.o\

Thresfeld* (Thresh field).

Johannes de Priston k vx
Robertus Hawenlyc k vx
Johannes Lara be k vx
Ricardus Mori ay k vx
Elias de Kylusay k vx .
Robertus de Colgill' k vx
Johannes Midelehowe k vx
Will el ui us Alius Klie k vx
Thomas Walker' k vx
Thomas Milner k vx
Ricardus de Deyn k vx
Johannes de Deyn k vx
Johannes Milner k vx
Walterus Gryme k vx
Johannes de Preston & vx
Johannes Stayndrop k vx
Johannes Elis k vx
Henricus Milner, Teoetor^ k vx
Sentient'— Agnes filia Ade
Johannes Brenore
Margeria filia Ricardi
Katerina seruiens Roberti
Katerina filia Johannis Milner
Summa — viij.*. \\.d.

m • • • m

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m » • *■ <*

mj.a.
mj.a.

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Wadyngton (Waddington).

Johannes Tempest, Chiualer,
Henricus Goday k vx
Johannes del \Vod\ Carpenter,

k vx
Thomas Clerkson & vx
Elias Ryder' k vx
Ibbota de Totyngton k vx
Thomas de Wadyngton & vx
Adam filius Gilberti k vx

• • • • 1

mj.a.

vj.a*.
mj.a.

• • • * «

mj.a.

• * • • «

in j .a.
mj.a.
mj. a.

Robertus Conqwer' & vx . iin.a\

Robertus Symson k vx . . iii].a\

Henricus Juglore k vx . . iiij.a*.

Ricardus de Brytwesele k vx . iiij.o\

Johannes de Wadyngton & vx iiij.o\

Johannes filius ejuB k vx . iii].o*.
Sfn*w>n£'— Robertus de Brydes-

werth' .... iiij.o\

Laurencius de Wadyngton . iiij.a*.

Magota filia Ade . . . iiij.a'.

Johannes de Sand ford' . . iiij.a'.

Cecilia mater ejus . . . iiij.a".
Summa— xxvj*. ijo*.

Wyglesworth (Wigglesworth).

Robertus de Thoresby, Armiger
Johannes de Hyndele k vx
Robertus de Mai ton k vx
Johannes Markson k vx
Johannes de Bordelay k vx
Petrus Bell' k vx
Thomas del Hund' k vx .
Willelmus Mayson & vx .
Johannes Milner k vx
Johannes Hykcorst k vx
Robertus A damson k vx
Johannes Elysson k vx
Johannes Brone k vx
Thomas Walker' k vx
Adam Fosti k vx
Johannes Parker' & vx
Willelmus de Wytakrefc vx
Ricardus Scelue k vx
Ricardus Wyghale & vx .
Adam Schephyrd' k vx .
Johannes Pesty k vx
Edmundus Jonson k vx
Agnes Wyghall'
Agnes Tons tall'
Alicia filia ejus
Maye de Hyndele
Agnes Walkerewyf

Summa — xij.*.

xl.a\

• • w • 4

mj.a.

• • m

in j. a.
mj.a.
ilij.a\
mj.a.
mj.a.
mj.a.

• • • » »

mj.a.

• • • 9

mj.a.

• • • J

mj.a.

• • • • *

nn.a.
..." *
mj.a.

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• • • j

mj.a.
mj.a.
mj.a.
mj.a.
iii].a\
mj.a.

• • • • j

mj.a.
mj.a.
mj.a.

• • • • *

mj.a.
mj.a.

Summa totalis de Stayneclyff' —
liijii. xix.*. \}.d. m

• The amount ia erased.

WAPENTACHIUM DE YUKCROS.

Austwyk' (Austwick).

Robertas Sinetheson, Text or,

& vx

Walterus de Qwerff 6c vx
Ricardus del Hall' & vx .
Johannes Greg son 6c vx
Willelmus Pece & vx
Adam Tomson & vx
Willelmus filius Ade filii
Nicholai, Chaluwr, 6c vx .
Johannes filius Ade Wattson

& vx

Henricus Dune. Webster, 6c vx
Ricardus Lam be 6c vx
Adam Lam be & vx
Willelmus GronelP 6c vx
Johannes Colan & vx
Johannes filius Ade de Clap-
ham 6c vx
Johannes filius Thome & vx .
Johannes Barker', Sutor, 6c vx
Robertus de Vllerston, Web-
ster, 6c vx
Johannes Browne & vx .
Willelmus de Spaltou Sc vx
Johannes Cay 6c vv
Johannes Smeth', Faber, 6c vx
Robertus filius Thome & vx
Willelmus de Rowland* & vx
Johannes fforrester' 6c vx
Johannes Treppe & vx
Thomas M arse hall' & vx
Adam Kmson 6c vx
Willelmus filius Ade 6c vx
Willelmus Rayner' 6c vx
Robertus Suerdson 6c vx
Johannes filius Roberti 6c vx
Ricardus Lemeng' 6c vx
Adam Suerdson & vx
Adam de Ouerhend' 6c vx
Willelmus Pece, de Crombak

6c vx
Ricardus de Querf 6c vx
Willelmus de Querf & vx
Willelmus Gibman 6c vx
Willelmus Pete (? should be

u Pece ") & vx .
Robertson Wyllson 6c vx
Robertus filius Ricardi 6c vx
Walterus filius Ricardi 6c vx
Thomas Ulerkson. Citsor, 6c vx
Robertus Lemeng', CUsor, 6c vx
Henricus filius Johannis & vx.
Johannes filius Thome & vx
Willelmus Barker' 6c vx
Thomas J on son & vx
Johannes Malgat 6c vx
Willelmus Cowper 6c vx .

vj.rf.

• • • • T

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• • • • f

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inj,a.

• • • • «

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nij.tf.

\].d.

m].d.
vi J.

m ft m • t

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• • ft • «

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lllj.rf.

\].d.
v].d.

ft • ft • T

nij.tf.

• • • «

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• • * • f

in]. a.
vj.rZ.

• * • m

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• • • • m

lilj.rt.

• • • • f

nij.rf.

ft ft B ft *

lllj.ff.

ft • • «

inj.ff.

• • • • *

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• • ft T

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• • ft »

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ft • ft • V

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• • • • ^

in j .rx.

• • • • *

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• • • t

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xij.rf.

• • • m

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• • • • «

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• • • • «

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vj.rf.

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ill] .rf.

• • • *

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• • • • _»

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ft • • T

in]. a.

• * • •

Hij.ff.

Willelmus Littstre & vx .
Willelmus Turpyn & vx .
Thomas filius Walteri 6c vx
Johannes Armetman 6c vx
Johannes de Clapham & vx
Robertus filius Walteri de

Wode & vx ...

Ricardus filius Walteri de

Wode & vx ...

Johannes de Lawkeland' & vx
Thomas Malkynson, Webstre,

& vx

Seruient' — Johannes filius Ade

filii Nieholai
Agnes Smythewyfe
Alicia filia Simone
Johannes de Parke .
Mariona de Parke
Johannes de Ellale
Agnes filia Roberti Adkokson
Johannes Lam be
Johannes filius Roberti filii

Thome
Ricardus Parker*
Beatrix Malyndoghter'
Ricardus filius Roberti
Robertus filius Roberti*
Robertus Petyson .

Summa — xxvj.*. vj.d.

Bentham.

Thomas de Crosby 6c vx
Johannes de Water scale 6c vx
Willelmus Wymarston & vx
Henricus de Midleton Sc vx
Gilbertus de Myrewra, Cissor

& vx
Johannes filius Stephani 6c vx
Willelmus Proctour & vx
Thomas de ffarnelay 6c vx
Ricardus de ftiat & vx
Johannes Cowhawe 6c vx
Johannes de Dowfbygyng 6c vx
Johannes ffole 6c vx
Johannes filius Alicie 6c vx
Thomas de Ellerschawe 6c vx
Thomas Ward" & vx
Robertus ffady & vx
Hugo de Crofft & vx
Johannes de Bland' 6c vx
Johannes de Bentham 6c vx
Johannes Lawpage 6c vx
Adam de Bland' 6c vx
Johannes Thomson 6c vx
Willelmus Daudson 6c vx

• • *

inj.rf.

• a • ■•

mj.a.

• • • • m

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• • «

mj.a.

• ft • V

inj. a.

• • • «

in] .a.

• • • • «

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• • • «

in] .a.
vj.rf.

• « • • m

in] .a.

ft ft ft m

inj.rf.

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• • w

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.... m

mj.a.

• • • • m

111] |.».

• • • •

nn.d.

lllj.rt.
lllj.ff.

iiij.rf.

• • • • •

in]. a.

• • * • »

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• • • m

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• • • • *

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• • • • «

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• • • • «

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mi .a.

• • • • m

inj. a.
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• • • m

\\\\.d.

• ft ft ft «

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• • • ft -m

lllj.tf.

xij.rf.
xij.rf.

• • • • «

iii].«.

ft • ft m

inj .a.
liii.a.

• • • ft -m

m].d.

• • • • *

inj .a.
mj.d.
xij.rf.
xij.rf.

• « • «

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• • *

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• • • • *

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• • • • •

inj .a.

Ricardus de Bent ham k vx
Seruient' — Johanna filia Thome

de (#ir)
Emma de M idle ton
Emma ffrere

Custancia de Culhauch' .
Betric' (sic) de Culhauch
Johannes de Bland' li trill'
Agnes vx Roberti
Ellota de Ingleton
Thomas de Bentham
Robertus de Ingleton
Robertus de Doufebyging
Elizabeths Forsterwyf

SSumma — xv.*. iiij.o".

• • • _»

mj.a.

• • • • *

lllj.A.

• • • • «

lllj.a.

• • •

liij.a.
mi.//,
mi a.

• • • _»

mj .a.

• • • # «

lllj.a.

mj.a.
liij.a.

• • • *

ni].a.

• • • • m

lllj.rff.

Burton' (Burton-in-Lonsdale).

Willelmus Gybson k vx
Johannes Trace. Onoper, k vx
Hugo de Thornton k vx
Johannes de Flasby k vx
Johannes filius ejusdem k vx
Adam Cokesoh, Webstre. k vx
Willelmus Jonkynson k vx
Gilbertus Smyth', Fabar, k vx
Ricardus Sybson k vx
Robertus Beket, Svt<rr % k vx
Johannes Thomson Dobson &vx
-Johannes de Holme k vx
Johannes Mareschall' k vx
Robertus filius Will el mi k vx
Thomas de Lond' k vx
Willelmus de Lond' k vx
Laurencius Hogonman k vx
Hugo de Newton k vx
Johannes de Milne k vx
Thomas Walker'. \Valhtr\ k vx
Thomas de Thornton k vx
Matheus de Crosby k vx
Willelmus de Westhowse k vx
Adam de Crawschawe & vx
Johannes Blomer' k vx
Willelmus Robinman k vx
Johannes Schanaldowre k vx
Willelmus ffetheler' & vx
Thoirias Banes k vx
Johannes Thomson k vx
Rfcardus Gibson k vx
Johannes Kvtson k vx .
Willelmus Gyon k vx
Johannes Gybson k vx
Oliuerus de Thornton k vx
Edmundus Jon son k vx
Agnes filia Thome de Lond'
Thomas Gybson k vx
-Johannes Smytheknaue k vx
•Cecilia que fuit vxor Ricard
de Rychemond'

t • f • f

iiij.a.

vj.o".

xij.o*.

• • • • *

nrj.a.

• 9 f

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vj .0*.
lllj.ff.

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vj.o".
iiij.a.

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• • • *

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9 9 * • *

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• • • • «

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• • • • *

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• • • • m

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lllj.a.

• • • *

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• • • f

in). a.

• • • • *

iiij.a.

• • • • *

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• • • • «

nn.a.
liny/,
mj.a.
liij.a.

liij.a.

Emma de Horton
Agnes Brownyng'
Matilda Clerkwvfe
Agnes Herlyng'
Alicia Brownwyfe .
Alicia de Lond'
Johannes Mellyng'
Agnes Browndoghter
Elena filia ejusdem
Eliot' Eradoghter
Alicia filia Beatricis

Summa- xix.*.

ij.o*.

Clapham*.

Robertus filius Alani k vx
Willelmus de Borgh' k vx
Johannes de Vhedon k vx
Ricardus filius Willelmi k vx
Ricardus le Clarke k vx
Thomas filius Ricard i k vx
Willelmus Walker' k vx
Johan Crokwyf k vx
Johannes Elysson k vx
Adam Piper', Webster, k vx
Johannes filius Ricard i k vx
Johannes Chalunner, Cfutluncr

k vx
Ricard ub Place k vx
Adam Pece k vx
Willelmus Taytfc vx
Johannes de Clapham, Fre

halder, & vx
Robertus de Clapham k vx
Johannes de Parke k vx
Adam Browne & vx
Willelmus de Clapham k vx
Robertus filius Walteri k vx
Ricardus RauthemeH' & vx
Robertus Geliot k vx
Johannes de Ay re ton junior &vx
Thomas Turpyn k vx
Robert u 8 Geldhyrd' k vx
Willelmus Lemyng' & vx
Henricus Tail Hour, Ctitor, k vx
Johannes de Somerscalewra

k vx
Johannes Alkokson k vx
Johannes de Somerscale junior

k vx ,

Willelmus Kyd' & vx
Johannes Bofferd' Ac vx
Willelmus Wyldman k vx
Adam de Schakyngton k vx
Willelmus Geregson k vx
Johannes Smythson k vx
Johannes Scharp k vx
Johannes Proktur k vx
Augustinus Mewhyrd' k vx

• • • m
lllj.tf.

• • • • «

HI] .A.

• • • * *

mi. a.

• • • • m

Ulj.0.

• • • • T

in], d.
m].d.
in), d.

• 9 • • »

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iiij. a.
mi d.

• • • » »

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• • • *

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• • • • *

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• • • • m

mj.a.

• • 9 • «

mj.a.

lllj.tf.

mj.a.

• • • • *

mj.a.

• • • • «

mj.a.

\}.d.

xxj.d.

vj.rf.

• 9 9 m m

mj.a.
nii.a.
mj.a.

xi].d.
mj.a.

• » t • *

ui] .a.
mj.a.
mj.a.

• • • • *

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mj.a.
ill] d.

m 9 * • f

mj.a.
mj.a.

• • • «

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• • • • *

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vj.a\

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• • • • *

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mj.a.
mj.a.
mj.a.

• a • * «

ui] .a.

• • • «

nij.a.
mj.a.

• • • • m

mj.a.
mj.a.

• • • • m

nij.aV

.... m

mj.a.

Hugo Scott & vx .
Johannes de Kendall' & vx
Willelmus Smyth' k vx
Johannes de Midillton k vx
Johannes de Midilton senior

k vx ....
Willelmus Gregson k vx
Thomas Crokson & vx .
Henricus Gregson k vx
Willelmus Austynman k vx
Cristiana Dewfebygyng'
Alicia Kyttokmaydyn
Ricardus Peteson k vx .
Willelmus Alius Ricardi filii

Willelmi & vx
Seruient 1 — Isabella Crokes

doghter'
Alicia Crokesdoghter'
Ricardus filius Johannis de

Clapham
Agnes seruiens Johannis del

Parke
Johannes filius Roberti .
Johanna soror ejusdem .
Willelmus de Rauthmell'
Robertus Gelietson
Adam Gelietson
Johannes de Grenfell'
Thomas de Midilton
Mariota Kyd .

Summa— xxiij.«. vj.d.

Dent.

Thomas de Syggleiswyk, Dra

per, k vx
Robertus de Burton, Spicer

k vx
Robertus Ward', Mareha^nf)

k vx
Adam de Crofft, Cissor, k vx
Thomas Clerke & vx
Thomas Dykson k vx
Willelmus Dollyng' k vx
Johannes de Ellyrgill' k vx
Rogerus Dullyng' k vv .
Johannes Copstake k vx
Rogerus del Marc he k vx
Robertus Sysson k vx
Willelmus de Smeretwayt k vx
Willelmus de Ellyrgill' k vx
Robertus de Reke & vx
Willelmus Blad' k vx .
Rogerus Will son k vx
Willelmus de Seglewyk k vx
Robertus Todde k vx
Johannes Symson k vx
Johannes Sauthhyrd' k vx
Willelmus Tomson k vx

• • • • «

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• • • • y

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a a • y

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• • • • i

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iiij.fl.

• • • • y

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• • • •

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• • • y

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• • • • y

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• • • • *

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• • • y

in], d.

• • • • y

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• • • • y

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• • • •«

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• • • • m

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• t • • ■»

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liij.fl.

• • • y

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• • • y

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mj.rZ.

• • • • y

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• • • • y

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• • • • y

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• » • • y

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xij.fl*.
xij.tf*.
liij.fl.

* • • t

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• • • y

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..." j
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• • • • y

in] a.
liij.fl.

• • • • f

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• • • • y

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• • y

in] a.

• • • *

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in] d.

m m • • y

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• * • • y

lllj.fl.

• • • y

nij. d.

• • • * t

111J./7.

• • • • y

111].//.

Willelmus filius Willelmi k vx
Willelmus Mason k vx
Adam de Smeretwayt k vx
Robertus ffarman k vx
Willelmus de Leke k vx
Thomas filius Thome filii

Johannis k vx
Robertus Dykson k vx
Adam de ffawesyde k vx
Johannes de Segheswyk & vx
Willelmus de Vlletwayt k vx
Johannes Hyldreston k vx
Rogerus de Baynbryg' k vx
Thomas de Hylldreston k vx
Robertus Cowpstake k vx
Thoma(s) Bryd' & vx
Johannes filius Ricardi k vx
Adam Grundolf k vx
Ricardus Grundolff k vx
Ricardus Vlltwayt & vx
Willelmus Chapman k vx
Adam Diconson k vx
Johannes Wynterscalle & vx
Ricardus Ward' k vx
Henricus de Gate k vx
Adam de Goldyngton k vx
Adam Gilson k vx
Johannes Graunger k vx
Thomas filius Johannis Daw-
son & vx
Willelmus filius Johannis Daw

son & vx
Thomas de S mart way t k vx
Johannes Wyrehorn k vx
Willelmus de Gawkthorp'& vx
Johannes Pete (should be

44 Pece ") k vx
Nicholaus Styrkland' k vx
Seruient' — Robertus de Segles-

»» yk. • •

Rogerus de Segleswyk
Adam filius Thome Clerke
Emma filia Johannis del Hall'
Willelmus fillius (tic) Johannis

del Hall' .
Willelmus filius Johannis

Dullyng
Agnes filia Ricardi .
Ingrene Caupstake .
Emma filia Ricardi
Johannes Blad'
Alicia de Midleton .
Johannes Garlede .
Robertus de Gate

Sum ma — xxxv.j. viij.//

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• • * y

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• • • • m

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HORTON*

(Hokton-in-Ribblesdale).

WillelmuB Palay &vx
Johannes Pollerd' & vx .
Robertas Merebek & vx .
Robertas Browne & vx
Alanus Alius Willelmi & vx
Willelmus ffaldschawe & vx
Edmundus films Laurencii

& vx
Willelmus Horseman & vx
Willelmus de Bygcrofft & vx
Ricardus Geldhyrd' & vx
Johannes de More & vx
Willelmus de Somerscalewra

& vx
Adam de Burton & vx
Johannes Tyrry & vx
Willelmus de Hundyngdeyn

& vx •

Johannes Ward' & vx
Johannes de Somerscales & vx
Johannes de Hundyngdeyn

vx ....

Adam de More & vx
Johannes de Ayreton & vx
Johannes Newehouse & vx
Johannes de Scartheson & vx
Willelmus Inman & vx
Thomas Lely & vx
Thomas de Staynford' & vx
Thomas Alius Henrici & vx
Johannes ffetyss & vx
Johannes de Swynden & vx
Johannes Lauson & vx
Johannes filius Johannis de

Ayreton & vx
Robertas Law son & vx .
Henricus Skerawth' & vx
Thomas de Laukeland' & vx
Johannes de Skerawth' & vx
Johannes de More & vx
Adam de Crokhay & vx
Johannes Pratte & vx
Willelmus de Lede & vx
Robertas Walmaghe & vx
Adam filius Thome & vx
Johannes Elysson & vx
Agnes vx Roberti
Agnes vx Rogeri
Magota Cokheuedwyff
Seruient'— Adam filius Elene
Matilda vx Johannis Milner
Alicia seruient Nele
Willelmus filius Willelmi Inman
Thomas Ayretonson
Johannes filius Ade Crokehay
Thomas filius Willelmi de

Somer ....

Summa— xvij.*.

9 • • *

uij. a.

• • • » t

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.

• • 7

in].fl.
lllj.fl.

• a • • 7

lllj.fl.

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.

• • • 7

ui].d.

• • • • «

nij.0.

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.

uij .a.

• • * 7

lllj.fl.

• • • • 1

ni].fl.

• • • • 7

in), a.

• « • 7

nij .a.

• • * « 7

mi .a.
iiij.fl.

• * • • 7

in] .a.

• • • • 7

inj.fl.

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.
mi. a.

• • • • 7

liij. a.

• • • y

lllj.fl.

• * • •■

iiij rf.

• • • « 7

ill] .a

• •• » w

inj.fl.

• • • • 7

ill] .a.

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.

• • • 7

lllj.fl.

• • m • 7

lllj.fl.

• • • 7

ill]. a.

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.

• • • • _7

in]. a.

• • • • »

uij. a.

• • • • #

inj.fl.

• • • • «

mi. a.

• • • » 7

mj.a.

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.

ft • * 7

uij. a.

• • • • 7

mi. a.

• • • * 7

mj.a.

• • » 7

in]. a.

• • • • 7

111). rt.

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.

• • • 7

ill]. a.

• • 7

lllj.fl.

• • 7

lllj.fl.

m • « 7

lllj.fl.

Ingleton'.

Johannes Shedhyrd' & vx
Robertas Kyng' & vx
Robertas de Ouerend & vx
Johannes de Redmane,Arniatas,

vj.«.
Willelmus filius Ricardi, S/ri^r,

& vx
Johannes Wetherhyrd', Faber,

& vx
Willelmus Grundolf & vx
Thomas de Ellerbek & vx
Johannes Page & vx
Thoma (sic) Browne & vx
Johannes de Crauen & vx
Thomas de Skyrhow & vx
Thomas Kyd' & vx
Johannes Dawson & vx
Robertas Chephyrd' & vx
Willelmus de Cowpland' & vx
Johannes Morehall' & vx
Willelmus de Scales & vx
Johannes filius Willelmi & vx
Johannes Mort k vx
Johannes C rawer' &, vx
Raudulphus Sm\ih\Fabar\&, vx
Robertas Dykson & vx .
Gilbertus Baynbryg' & vx
Johannes filius Nicholai & vx
Ricardus Scot & vx
Willelmus Walker' & vx
Hugo Denysson & vx
Thomas de Hall' & vx .
Johannes filius Ellote & vx
Johannes filius Ricardi & vx
Hugo de Holme & vx
Laurencius Tomson & vx
Johannes de Wod' & vx
Johannes Husband' & vx
Thomas Lauson & vx
Step nanus Hog' & vx
Johannes Cittson & vx .
Johannes de Bank & vx
Willelmus Smeth',^aftflr',&vx
Johannes de Lese & vx
ThomaB Benne & vx
Edmundus filius Thome & vx
Johannes Cowper & vx .
Robertas Pynrter' & vx .
SeTiiimf — Thomas Jon son Wet

herhird
Johannes filius Galfridi
Agnes Kyd'

Magota de Wynterscale .
Emma Harwod'
Agnes vx Ricardi Sariant
Agnes Schephyrd
Alicia Cowper'
Hugo Bateman
Elena seruient Willelmi .

• • • • j?

nij.ff.

• • • f

mi.rf.

• • • 7

ill] .a.

viij.rf.

xij.d.

xij.rf.
in].//.

• • • • J

ni].ff.

• • • • m

mj .a.

• • • • 7

111].*/.
• • • • j
mi. a.

lllj.tf.

• « • 7

ill]. a.

• • • • 7

lll].ff.

• • • * *

in] a.

• • • • j

in] .a.

• • • 7

ll!J.tf.

• • • » 7

mj.a.

• • • 7

lllj.tf.-

• • • • 7

uij.a.

• • • • 7

111]. a.
vj.rf.

• • • J}

ill] .a..

• • • 7

lllj.rt.

• • • 7

nij.a.

\).d.

• • • • jf

nij.a.

• * • • 7

uij. a.

• • • • 7

Hi]. a.

• • • • 7

nij.a.

• • » 7

lll].tf.

• • • • 7

ni].a^

t « • 7

lllj.fl.

• • • 7

llll.rf,

• • • 7

lllj.tf.

• • • • J

lllj.fl,

• • • 7

ill] .a.
•• • • *
ni].ff.

vi.rf.

• • • * 7

lllj.fl.

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.

• • 7

lllj.fl.

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.

• « • • 7

lllj.fl,
lllj.fl.

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.

• • • 7

lllj.fl.

« • • • 7

lllj.fl.

• • • 7

111] fl.

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.

• • • 7

lllj.fl.
lllj.fl.

• • • • 7

lllj.fl.

Robertas de ffreklyngton . iiij.rf.

•Galfridus Spenser, de Ingleton iiij.rf.

Summa — xxvij.*. ij.rf.

Sadbargh (Sedbergh).

Adam de Bland'. Hosteler, & vx xij.rf.
•Johannes Brarntwayt, Walker,

& vx xij.rf.

-Johannes filius Ade Jeffrason

& vx xij.rf.

Willelmus Henrison & vx . iiij.rf.

Adam Jonson & vx . . iiij.rf.

Willelmus de Ellirgyll' & vx . iiij.rf.

Willelmus ffawsyd'&vx . iiij.rf.

Thomas Wedoghson & vx . iiij.rf.

Thomas Wylkynson & vx . iiij.rf.

Willelmus de Aykryg' & vx . iiij.rf.

Willelmus de Rydding & vx . iiij.rf.

•Johannes Gybson, WalJter&vx. vj.rf.

•Johannes filius Willelmi & vx iiij.rf.

-Johannes Neleson & vx . iiij.rf.

Laurencius de York & vx . iiij.rf.

Thomas filius Henrici & vx . iiij.rf.

Ricardus filius Willelmi &l vx . iiij.rf.

Thomas Symson & vx . iiij.rf.

Adam de ffawsyd' & vx . iiij.rf.

Henricus Gybson, Walker, & vx vj.rf.

Adam Spycer' & vx . . iiij.rf.

Johannes le Wode & vx . . iiij.rf.

Johannes Spycer' & vx . . iiij.rf.

Johannes de Rowre & vx . iiij.rf.

Johannes Mason & vx . iiij.rf.

Adam Hawlay k vx . iiij.rf.

Matilda Bland' . . . iiij.rf.

Johannes Tybey & vx . iiij rf.

Johannes Jopson & vx . . iiij.rf.

Johannes de Walden & vx . iiij.rf.

Ricardus Hebletwayt & vx . iiij.rf.

Thomas Scharp & vx . . iiij.rf.

Willelmus de Lay re wat holm

&vx . . iiij.rf.

Henricus filius Heurici Nell-
son & vx . . . iiij.rf.

Adam Sponer' & vx . . iiij.rf.

Thomas de Braintwayt & vx . xij.rf.

Thomas de Lolme & vx . iiij.rf.

SeruietW — Johannes William-
son de Fausys . . . iiij.rf.

Johannes filius Willelmi Henr'

(? " Henrison ") . . iiij.rf.

Johannes de Aykryg' . . iiij.rf.

Johannes Daynell' . . iiij.rf.

Thomas de Luktu . . iiij rf.

Agnes de Hebletwayt . . iiij.rf.

Matilda de Hogyll' . . iiij.rf.

Summa — xxvij.*. viij.rf.

Thornton*
(Thornton-in-Lonsdale),

Raudulphus Feldhowses & vx
Willelmus de Hesledeyn & xx
Thomas Hulson & vx
Willelmus Dayuyil' & vx
Willelmus Bllottson & vx
Robertus Willson & vx .
Thomas Sybotson & vx .
Robertus Gudred & vx .
Robertus Yoy [?>., Joy] & vx
Thomas de Lupton & vx
Ricardus Mercer' & vx
Adam Lullson & vx
Johannes dc Lund' & vx
Robertus Yoy junior & vx
Johannes Batman & vx
Willelmus Dayuyil' junior &vx
Adam de Burgh' & vx
Willelmus Burgh & vx .
Thomas de Lund' & vx
Robertus de Bald res ton & vx
Johannes filius Ade de Burgh'

& vx

Johannes do Baldreston & vx
Johannes de Leke & vx
Willelmus de Baldreston & vx
Johannes de Tatam & vx
Thomas Willson & vx
Johannes de Cote & vx
Thomas Carter' & vx
Adam Wadkynson & vx
Robertus Ouerend' & vx
Johannes de Fowscroft & vx
Husro Hyrd' & vx
Willelmus Hyrd' &, vx
Johannes de Aykheued' & vx
Johannes Willson & vx
Johannes Neuyll' & vx
Willelmus Robynson & vx
Robertus Michelson & vx
Adam Milnerson & vx
Johannes de Grene & vx
Thomas de Tatham & vx
Thomas de Clapham & vx
Johannes de Horton & vx
Willelmus Robynson & vx
Robertus de Tatham & vx
Maria »eniwnt ejus
Alicia $e miens Roberti de Bal

dreston
Elena de Birche
Johanna Gregdoghter'
Johannes filius Thome de Burgh
Summa — xvij.j. viij.rf.

nn.rf.

• • • • t

iiij.rf.
iiij.rf.

• • • «

iiij.rf.
iiij.rf.

• • • • i
lllj.rf.

mj.rf.

lllj.rf.

• • • • <ff

lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.

• • • • f

lllj.rf.

vj.rf.

lllj.rf.

lllj.rf.
vj.rf.

lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.

• • • • «

lllj.rf.

• • • a «

lllj.rf.

• • • a *

lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.

« a a • -f

lllj.rf.

xij.rf,

lllj.rf.

a • • • -m

lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.

• a a m -m

lllj.rf.

a • B • -*

lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.

• • • • f

lllj.rf.

• a • » m

lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.

• • • a -•

lllj.rf.

a • • • f

lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.

a • • • m

lllj.rf.

• a • • m

lllj.rf.

a • » f

lllj.rf.
lllj.rf.

• • • • «

lllj.rf.

• • • • f

lllj.rf.

a • a • ^

lllj.rf.
UlJ.rf.

Summa totalis istius rotuli —

ix.//.ix.*. viij.rf. (These figures

cancelled.)

A LIST OF CRAVEN MEN

WHO FOUGHT AT

FLODDEN FIELD, A.D. 1513.

HE Battle of Flodden Field, one of the most decisive events,
in English history, was fought on the 9th of September,
1513. The Scots were utterly defeated, and at the close of
the combat 10,000 of their pierced and bleeding bodies lay
lifeless on the field, including those of the King (James IV.), his son,
twelve earls, and fifteen lords and heads of clans, — the flower and gallantry
of Caledonia ! In the refrain of an old Scottish melody, " The flouirs
o' the forest were a' wede awa\" The English were led by the veteran
Earl of Surrey, who, at that time, was Lieut. -General of the northern
counties of England. There is a manuscript of an old ballad preserved
in the British Museum (Harl. MSS. No. 3526) which cites the following
interesting particulars : " Heare is the famous historie or songe, called
Floodan Field," — says the title of the ballad ; " in it shalbe declared
how, whyle King Henrie the Eight was in France, the King of Scoots,
called James, the fowerth of that name, invaded the realme of England ;
and how he was incountred with all at a place called Branton, on Floodan
Hill by the Erl of Surry, lieutenant-generall for the Kinge, with the
helpe of dyvers lords and knights in the North Countrie, as the Lord
Dakers of the North, the Lord Scrope of Bolton, with that most
coragious Knighte, Syr Edward Stand ley, who for his prowis and
valiantness shewed att the said battell, was made Lord Mount Eagle, as
the sequel declareth."

The ballad is generally stated (but on questionable authority) to have
been written by one, Richard Jackson, a schoolmaster at Ingleton, about
fifty years after the battle. Allusion is made in it to Henry Clifford,
" the Shepherd Lord," of Barden Tower, who led a goodly array of stout
Craven yeomen to the sad and bloody conflict, many of whom doubtless
never came back again. In the words of the ballad : —

Now like a captain bold he brought

A band of lusty lads elect,
Whose curious coats cunningly wrought,

With dreadful dragons were bedeck t.

From Penigent to Pendle Hill,

From Linton to Long Addingham,
And all that Craven coasts did till

They with the lusty Clifford came.

All Staincliffe hundred went with him,
With striplings strong from Whorledale,

And all that Hauton-hills did climb,
With Longstroth eke and Litton dale.

Whose milk-fed fellows fleshly bred,
Well hrown'd, with sounding bows upbend,

All such as Horton fells had fed,
On Clifford's banners did attend."

Lord Clifford was given a principal command, and survived the
battle nearly ten years. The understated list does not comprise the
names of all his followers, or those who served under him, as only a
portion of the army-roll has been discovered among the archives at
Bolton Abbey. Such an important place, for example, as Skipton is
omitted. The list is abstracted from a volume entitled " The Householde
Booke of Henry, Lord Clifford," and is dated, " Anno Henr. Octavi
Secundo," or the 2nd year of Henry VIII. The battle having been
fought in the 5th year of that monarch, it is most probable that this was
a part list of Lord Clifford's retainers, liable to be called upon in a time
of necessity, and therefore most, if not all, of those Craven men who
were then living and capable would actually join him in so important an
engagement. The total number of names comprised in the list is 321.

The places are arranged alpJiabetically.

Adyngham (Addingham).

»»

WilliauiWade,able,horse and harnish'd

Henry Man, a archer

Richard Cryer, „

Richard Riley, .,

Richard Lofthouse, a bille

Thomas Stotte, a archer
Christopher Swyer,
Thomas Barker,
John Greene,

TJte above hors'd and harmtk'd at
the toioC* cost.

Appletrewyck (Appleteewick).

Henry Young, bow, able, horse, &c.

William Wat, a bowe

William Hog, a bille

Thomas Preston, a bowe

Robert Elston, „

Cuthbt. Wynterb'n „

Henry Young, bille & bowe

Arnecliffe (Arncliffe).

John Knolle, able, horse and harnish'd

Oliver Knolle, a bowe

Robert Tylson, a bill

William Firth, bowe

Richard Clebenger, bille

Peter Prass, „

John Carlyll, „

Richard Atkinson, bowe
John Wilson,
John Atkinson,

»»

?»

BEA.M8LEY.

John Holmes, bow, able, horse, &c.
Thomas Frankland, a bowe

Richard Shyers, a bille

Thos. Kendal, bill, able, horse, &c.

BOLTON-IN-BoLLAND.

William Stott, bow, able,

horse. &c.

Henry Garnett,
Robert Caley,
Thomas Pele,

a bowe
bille

Humphrey Pickard,
Thomas Pykhard,
John Wyglesworth,
John Garrett,

bowe
bille

Richard Calmers,

bowe

Thomas Foot,

Robert Walbank,

• •

William Knott,

bille

Willian Catley,

bowe

Bradley.

William Smith, bow, able, horse, &c.
Thomas Slys, bowe

Thomas Greenwood, „

Xrist. Smyth, .,

Carlton.

Robert Tempest, bowe, able, horse, &c.

Robert Dawtree, bowe

John Thompson,

Henry Wattkynson,

Richard Kcarburgth,

Richard Stapylton,

John Smith,

William Throp,

Thomas Midybrok,

James Smith,

John Rycroft,

•i

»»

Ceollyng (Cowling).

Pers. Tyllotson. a bow, able, horse, &c.
Xrofer Lakok, a bowe

Nicoles Starburg, ,,

Henry Waller, .,

E MBS AY AND ESTBY (EMBSAY
AND EASTBY).

Thomas A 1 cock, bow, able, horse, &c.
Thomas Croft, a bowe

William Cate, of Estby. a bille

John Pety, do. a bowe

ESHETON (ESHTON),

Thos. Marton, a bow, able, horse, &c.

Farnhyll (Fa rn hill)).

Henry Currer, bowe, able, horse, &c.
Edward Sally, a bowe

Robert Bradley
William Wylson,

»»

Flasby.

William Hessfell'd. a man, horse and

harnish'd
Richard Lister, a bille

William Blackborne, ,,

Stephen Proctor, a man, hors'd, &c.
Rauflfe Proctor, a man, hori'd, &c.
Rodger Proctor, a bill

Lyonel Whitfield, „

Robt. Snelle, hors'd and harnish'd

Gersynton (Grassington).

John Clerk, a bow, able, horse and

harnish'd
John Wilkinson, a bowe

George Knolle,
Lennard Hibotson,

*»

GlGRESWYCK (GlGGLESWICK).

Robert Stakhouse, bow, able, horse, &c.

John Webster, a bowe

Thomas Palay,

James Carr,

Thomas Browne,

Jack Stack house, a bowe

Richard Bray shay, bowe

Richard Wilson,

Robert Burron,

John Brayshay,

Thomas Tayleyor,

Thomas Preston,

John Stakhouse,

Willian Ryley,

Thomas Armested,

John Taleyor,

Henry Tayleor,

Thomas Ne who use,

Oliver Stakhouse,

Henry Armested,

Gloseborne (Gldsburn).

William Mayncoud, bowe, able, horse,

&c.
Robert Summerscale, bowe

Halton.

Robert Burley, a bowe, able, horse, &c.
Francis Shyers, a bowe

William West,

a bille

bille
bowe

»>

bowe

»?

Hawkswyk (Hawkbwick).

William Calvard, a bow, able, horse

and harnish'd
Athur Redyman, a bow, able, horse

and harnish'd

Helifeld and Nkwton
(Hellifield and Newton).

John Carr, bowe, able, horse, &c.

John Clark, a by He

John Hardaker, a bowe

Thomas Badsby, „

Thomas Wray, bowe

Henry Carr, „

William Forte, bylle

Thos. Hardaker, „

Roger Hardaker, bowe

KlLDWICK.

John Garford, bow, able, horse, &c.
Edward Garford, bowe

Richard Herreson, a bille

KlGHELEY (KEIGHLEY).

John Rawson, bow, able-body

&c.
Thomas Sowden,
Willian Butterfield
Xrofer Ruddyng,
John Shaw,
John Brijtg,
John Stott,
Thomas Lakok
John Cockrofte,
Robert Wright,
Robert Wright, junr.,
Willian Hartley
Willian Estburn,
Law' Ambler, bow, able-body,

&c.
Richd. Try Hyll,
Robert Hudson,
John Sugden,
Richard Sharpe,
John Widdoppe,
Ellis Hall,
John Butterfield,
Richard Rycroft,
John Nether wood,

horse,

bille
bow

bille
bowe

>»

bille
horse,

bowe

»»
»»

!»
»l
>»

bill

Edward Rawson,
Robert Bottomley,
Richard Shaw,
Thomas Stotte,
Richard Jenkinson,
Willian Den by,
Willian Sugden.
John Clough,
William Smith,
Robert Lupton,
Ellis Wadsworth,
William Roper,
William Farnill,
Robert Stelle,
William Jackson,
John Hanson,
Robert Rawson,
Edward More,
Richard Shackylton,
James Procter,
Robert Sugden,
John Oldfield,
John Wed dope,
Henry Beneland,

bowe-

»»
>»

bille

*•
•i
•>
?»

bowe-

»•

»»

Langclyff (Langcliffe).

Richard Brown, bow, able, horse, &c.

Rogr. Yveson, a bowe

Henry Pacock, a bille

Robert Kydson, bille
Richard Kvng,
Robert Kydd,
William Yveson,

John Stakhouse, „

Roger Browne, bowe

»>

»»

bowe

Langstrothdale.

Richard Tenant, a bow, able, horse, &c.

Geoffery Tenant, a bowe

John Tenant,

Thomas Slinger,

Lenard Jake,

William Tenant,

Rauffe Tenant,

James Parker,

William Langstroth,

Geffery Walker,

Thomas Tenant,

Adam Wilkynson,

John Faldshaw,

Xrofer Hogg,

Richard Smyth,

James Case,

Xrofer Slyng,

bille
bowe

»i

bille

Lyttondale (Litton dale).

John Knolle, able, horse and harnish'd

Abraham Knolle, bille

Richard Franklin, bo we

Richard Fawcytt,

John Franklin,

Jaek Tylson,

Adam Langstroth.

James Knolle,

Rauffe Knowle,

Matthew Knolle,

William Thorneton

Jak Ellison,

Roger Franklin,

Robert Stoneford,

Henry Bullok,

Henry Franklyn,

John Walker,

Rodger Tenant,

Thomas Wederheide,

Jakob Tenant,

Henry Tylson,

John Coward,

»>
a bille

»»

>»
j»

bowe
bille

»»
bowe

*i
ii

bille

bowe

bille

MABTON FOB M08TEB3.

William Marton, a bow, horse, and

harnish
Nickolas Synson, a bowe, horse, and

harnish
Thomas Stockdale, a bille, horse, and

harnish
John Roberts, a bowe

Richard Arnald, „

John Tomlynson, able person and

bille
Richard Bulcock, able person and bille
Robert Rossendale, a bill

To be hors'd and harnish'd at the
town?* cost.

Thomas Midopp. able person, horse

and harnish'd
John Mai ham, able person, horse and

harnish'd
Xrofer Styrke, able person, horse and

harnish'd
John Swyer, junr., able person
Wm. Robert, able person

Mobton Banks.

John Rogerson. a bow, able, horse, &c.

Richard Holymake, a bowe

William Butterfield,

W T illiara Rogerson, bowe

John Fuller, bill

Willian Leche,

John Leche,

Willian Sharppe, bowe

William Adamson, bill

Kdmond Dobson, „

Adam Wodde, „

Ryminoton (Rimington).
Henry Burelay, bow, able, horse, &c.

Henry Arthynton,
James Oddy,
John Ray,
Robert Calmley,
Robert Tattersall,
Richard Hoghton,
Thomas Walar,
Robert Calmley, junr.,
William Carr,
Gyles Lodge,
Robert Forte,
Christr. Pykhard,
Thomas Land,
Roger Land,
Robert Dansar,
Christr. Hornby,
Richard Walar,

bowe

»»

bylle
bowe
"bylle
bowe

ii
ii
ii

bille

»>
bowe

bylle

Settyll (Settle).
Richard Brown, a bow, able, horse, &c

William Tayler,
Oliver Foster,
Richard Coke son,
William Knolle,
Adam Brown,
Rogr. Yveson,
Rawlyn Lawson,
Allen Procter,
Henry Hoelson,
Richard Carr,
Richard Tenant,
Alan Proctor,
Edward Lawson,
Adam Browne,
Oliver Taleyor,
Thomas Summerscale,
William Symson,
Robert Taleyor,
John Watkynson,
William Lawson,
William Carr,
Robert Midoppe,
Richard Lund,
Richard Jackson,
Roger Carr,
Hugh Carr,
William Taleyor,
Gyles Cokeson,
George Hokison,
John Holson,
Richard Lawson,

a bowe

ii
a bille
a bowe

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a bille
bow

bille

it
bowe

bille

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ii
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bowe

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11

Stbbtok.

Richard Garford,abow,able, horse, kc.

John Garford, a bowe

John Parkinson, a bille

John Whetaker'a, a bowe
William Smith,

William Kastburn, a bills

Stephen Tyllotson, bow, able, horse,

Roger Swaynson,

bo we

Richard Palay,

James Armeeted,

bille

John Hake son.

Oliver Arm 6 ted,

Henry Lawk land,

William Foster,

''bill

John Yveeon,

Roger Yveaon,

Thou. Smyth, junr ,

Stosefobd (Staikfobth).

James Foster, bowe, able, horse, kc.

Adam Palay, bowe

Robert Twistleton, „

Richard Franklyn „

Richard Chew, „

James A r minted, bille

Adam Valay, „

Soger Law do n, „

bow, able, horae, im.

Wm. Brochden,
Robert Burgess,
Thomas Bacock.

GlGOLESlVICK.

CRAVEN HIGHLANDS.

PART I.-WESTERN DIVISION.

CHAPTER I.

GlGGLESWICK.

Introduction — Character of Craven and the North- Western Dales — Land of
mountain and cataract— A paradise of wild flowers and ferns — History and
Antiquities — Hotel and house accommodation — Craven diet — Longevity —
Unrivalled Air-Cures— Comparison with the Black Forest and Switzerland
— Giggleswick — An old British town — Domesday — Author's correspondence
with Continental authorities — A reference to German charters of the 8th
century, shewing the origin and meaning of Giggleswick — The lost Tarn
Ebbing and Flowing Well— Other English "tidal" wells— The British canoe
— First mention of the church — Some early charters — Old families —
Archdeacon Paley — Amusing Anecdotes — Recent discoveries in the church
— " Strainge Parsons " — Account of the Market Cross — The Grammar School
— The Museum and its contents.

N commencing our survey of the Craven Highlands, Giggleswick,
with Settle, has the first claim to consideration as the capital
centre. This, it should be understood, is adopted for the
sake of greater convenience of the whole area treated upon. With the
Lowlands (if such a term be admissible) of Craven the present work
does not profess to deal. Strictly speaking, the parish of Kirkby
Malham is the most central in the T)eanerv of Craven. This ancient
ecclesiastical division is almost co-extensive with, yet larger than, the
almost equally ancient Wapentake of Staiucliffe ; the latter excluding
the parishes of Bingley, Ilkley, and Horton-in-Ribblesdale. Craven,
properly, extends from Bingley and Ilkley on the west, to Slaidburn and
Bolland on the east, and from the foot of Boulsworth southwards, to

Langstrothdale northwards ; an area comprising a little over 600 square
miles, or roughly, 400,000 acres. In Domesday the district is surveyed
as Crave', ' which is probably a contracted form of Craig Vae?i> or Land
of Crags, — a derivative that can be clearly traced back to the earliest
foreign invasion of the Goidelic Celts, who were the first possessing
conquerors of our Yorkshire Highlands, then occupied by the aboriginal
pre-Celtic race. To these primitive Goidels or Gaels (now represented
by the Gaels of Scotland and Ireland) Craven, then, apparently owes its
name. But as some objection, perhaps, may be raised to the final
compound, I may observe that in Teutonic and Anglo-Saxon ven or veen
has the meaning of a shallow lake, or marsh, whence our English word
Fen. But as Craven was undoubtedly so called long before the Teutonic
Conquest there can, I think, be no just ground for assuming this to
form part of its derivation.

The two Midland stations, — about a mile apart — at Giggleswick
on the Lancaster line, and at Settle on the Carlisle line, have
made this locality accessible by railway from all the chief centres
of population in the country. But the great north line which traverses
the wild mountain region from Settle to Carlisle is the only one which
intersects the landscape to the west of Ripon and Pafceley — a distance, as
the crow flies, of nearly 30 miles — and may be likened, perhaps, to a
huge whip-stock; while the metals that come up southwards from
Skipton, from Colne, and from Whalley to Hellifield, may be said to
form the several lashes, keeping at a distance, apparently, any further
intrusion of the steam demon into these upper dales. To the north
and east of this iron boundary there extends a region several hundred
square miles in extent, where the railway whistle is never heard, where
the only sounds audible are the oleatings of mountain Bheep, the cries
of moor-birds, the roar of cataracts, the murmur of rock-girt streams,
ruffled often by rude storms, or kissed into sweetest music by amorous
summer winds — a region, moreover, of such varied and absorbing
interest that it is questionable whether in the whole of England there
can be found its equal in any similar tract.

Historically too, and in monuments of far-distant times, belonging to
the earliest records of human activity in this country, and in temples and
relics of later ages, there will be found matters and objects of no ordinary
importance and concern, each and all of which will be dealt with at
length in the text. Scenically, while the district is mainly built up of
limestone there is a great variety of both older and newer strata, and
these formations traversed by the several branches of the famous Craven
Fault, one of the grandest and most astonishing rock-fractures in the
whole country, the geologist, or student of scenery, has here a rare and
attractive field of interest. Botanically also, no district has a richer

calendar, many of the flowering plants, mosses, and lichens have, owing
to the exceptionally favourable conditions of habitat, maintained an
uninterrupted existence from a vastly remote period, when sea and ice
have alternately filled the dales or receded from the mountain tops. But
these also form subjects of enquiry which we shall discuss more fully in
our rambles about.

The country presents a surface at once bold and picturesque, a
combination, aesthetically, we might term it, of the sublime and beautiful,
— great rugged scars clothed with a profusion of native trees and shrubs ;
high mountain masses isolated or in ranges, about whose summits lie
lonely tarns, the haunts of many rare birds ; wide sweeps of purple
moorland ; deep romantic gills or beck-courses, which, wearing deeper
and deeper, have fissured numbers of great gulfs in the limestone, " pot-
holes" as they are called, and caverns and chasms of various and
unknown depth. Though the mountains do not attain quite the same
altitude as those in the neighbouring Lake Country, yet to the explorer
a-foot, they are usually more accessible by reason of their lesser acclivities,
rising in a succession of plateaux or terraces formed by the weathering of
the horizontal beds of rock, and commanding from their summits
prospects often of surprising extent. The air, naturally, in a country
almost entirely free from manufactories, is very pure, and where the
limestone prevails, is dry, bracing, and tonic. The hills give rise to
innumerable running springs of excellent water, which rarely or never
fail in their supply. The inns, though generally small, are clean and
comfortable, and whether the visitor elect to stay at these or any of. the
private houses or farms in the district, accustomed to receiving visitors,
he may reckon on homely comforts and considerate treatment. The
native dietary if plain is wholesome. Fresh home-grown vegetables,
the primest and sweetest of home-fed hams, (which have indeed a world-
wide fame), a plentiful supply of rich new milk and butter, fine fresh
eggs, and with these and the proverbially excellent quality of the
Yorkshire-made bread, many a Craven housewife need never be ashamed
of making up a meal or a dish fit to set before a king.

With improved drainage and sanitary arrangements recent statistics
shew how healthful the district has become, whilst the records of
longevity prove that amongst the dales-folk long life is rather the rule
than the exception ; the average length of human life in Craven
probably, we might almost say positively, exceeding that of any other
district in the universe. Moreover, lying for the most part remote from
any large towns or cities, undisturbed by the vagaries of modern ways, the
customs, manners, and pastoral habits of the people have remained in
great measure unchanged. Therefore, having regard to the pure air,
wholesome diet, and vitalising surroundings, what our Teutonic friends

on the Continent denominate Luft-Kur Orte, is just as applicable to thig
great Highland sanatorium, which being so well circumstanced is
becoming increasingly popular as a centre of unrivalled Air-Cures.
Compared with the English Lake District our Yorkshire Highlands bear
pretty much the same relation to each other as Switzerland does to the
adjoining Black Forest at the present day, — the former bustling, noisy,
and in season overcrowded, with its grand hotels, steamers and coaches,
and system of circular tours ; in the latter there are few pretensions of
this kind, life is altogether quieter, the face of Nature even looks more
restful, and if the eye be not daily feasted with' the sight of mountains
quite so elevated, you have the satisfaction of knowing that your lodging
bill is proportionately less lofty !

But now let us return to Giggleswick. This ancient and extensive
parish, which includes an area of 18,500 acres, and is almost wholly
grazing land, comprises the townships of Giggleswick, Settle, Stainforth,
and Rathmell. Prior to 1851 Langcliffe was also included in the parish.
Bach of the last four mentioned places has a modern church ; the livings
being perpetual curacies.

With respect to the nomenclature of Giggleswick, it is generally
conceded, on the authority of Whitaker, to be the wick, or village, of
Gtkel, a Saxon personal name. But I am of opinion that long before
the Saxons had settled here the village lay some little distance to the
north of its present site. There was in fact in British and Roman times
a pretty extensive stationary population grouped around the shores of
the old Giggleswick Tarn, and close to that mysterious spring, the
ebbing and flowing well. The ancient British fishing-boat found in the
bed of the dried-up tarn thirty years ago affords unmistakable proof of
this. When the Saxons arrived there is little doubt that this curious
and unique spring played an important part in local religious rites — as
it had done, most probably, in the days of the early Britons too, who we
know, consecrated groves, rocks, lakes, springs, or any remarkable
natural object to their deities and superstitions. It was undoubtedly a
holy well, yet to what saint in Saxon times it was dedicated the record
is silent ; but, probably, like the church, to Saint Alkelda, whose
martyrdom has been perpetuated by the Saxons at only one other place
in Yorkshire, viz., at the church and well at Middleham. In fact the
" tidal " well at Giggleswick would, I think, if active, be of sufficient
note to give rise to the name of the place. Dr. Whitaker hints as much
by supposing the initial word to come from the A.S. gugglian, in allusion
to the ebbing and flowing well. In several early charters the name is
suggestively written Giclisvic, Guglesvic, Guckilswic, Gukleswick, and
the like. The Normans, however, who made some sad hashes of Saxon
place-names, spall it in Domesday Ghigelesvvic.

Dr. August Prinzinger, of Salzburg, Austria, one of our most
distinguished continental authorities, with whom I have exchanged some
correspondence, agrees with me in attributing the name to the old well.
There are, it seems, scores of places in Saxony, Bavaria, and other parts
of Germany and Austria, whose names are compounded with Kick, Keck,
Kickel, Gigg, Giggl, Gigl, and Quick, all being variations of one and the
same root ; the initial G and K being frequently reversed, and the
double g substituted for ck y as in Brugg, Brugge, Briicke ; Egg, Ecke,
&c. The words Kick or Keck are still used to denote flowing or surface
springs in contradistinction to artificial or pump-wells. The name Keck
or Kickbrun, (Brunkick) says Dr. Prinzinger, occurs in German and
Austrian charters, as Quecpruno and Kekpruno, as early as the 8th and
9th centuries, and appears also in the form of Kickl, Giggl, to extend into
Saxon territory, as Kickaberg, on the Elbe, and Gigglhain ; also in Lower
Saxony is Quickborne,tffa Kickbrun, Brunfluss ; in Bavaria, Giggenhausen
and Guggenthal (or the valley of bubbling springs) ; and in Wurtemberg
(circle Neckar) the small town of Guglingen. There are in Bavaria
alone at least half-a-hundred places spelled with the various affixes of
Kick, Kickl, Giggl, &c. It is impossible that these can have all been
the property or home of Gikel or Kikel, the supposed Saxon chieftain
before the English Conquest. It is also noteworthy that these places
occur principally in hilly but rather low-lying districts, where springs are
not too abundant, but sufficiently so to warrant the allocations. In the
higher parts of the country, and in the Alps, springs are so numerous that
such names are rare.*

But the question not unnaturally arises, Has the Giggleswick well
maintained its "tidal" character since Saxon times, or is it of more
recent origin ? There are good grounds for ascribing a high antiquity
to it, although the first actual mention of it appears to be by Drayton in
the beginning of the 17th century. The old chartographer, John Speed,
has also the following quaint reference to it in his " England and Wales
described," (1627), — "At Giggleswicke, about a mile from Settle (a
Market-Towne) there are certaine small springs not distant a quaits cast
from one another ; the middlemost of which doth at every quarter of an
houre [?] ebbe and flowe about the height of a quarter of a yard when
it is highest, and at the ebbe falleth so lowe that it be not an inch deepe
with water. 1 ' — But such regularity in its ebb and flow as is here insinuated
has probably never existed.f

* See Vol. 5 of the ''Topog. Stat. Handbuch des Konigreichs Baiem,"
(Ortslexicon) ; also Raffelsberger's " Geog. Stat. Lexicon des Kaiserthums
Oesterreich."

f There are two or three other similar " tidal " springs in England, the most
noted, perhaps, being that between Chapel-le-Frith and Tideswell in Derbyshire.

The ancient tribes living in the neighbourhood of the tarn, and on
the adjoining scars, have left some very remarkable evidences of their
presence here, which will be more fully exemplified in our accounts of
district rambles. While hunting and fishing, and the making of roads
and paths, occupied a large part of their regular avocations, some time
was also devoted to the manufacture of domestic and other implements
of warfare and the chase. In winter, the skins which had been previously
dried and cured were fashioned into various articles of clothing.
Frequently when the snow had accumulated in sufficient quantity, they
would abandon for a time their stone and turf dwellings, which were not
always of the best construction and impervious to the bitter elements,
and live in snow huts, arranged in groups, bee-hive fashion, or like huge
snow-balls. Sometimes in winter they took to the caves, when these were
habitable or accessible, from which often the wild beasts had to be driven
and kept at bay by fires kindled at night. When the waters were frozen,
such places as the tarn were the frequent resorts of skaters; the old
Britons, like the Romans who followed them, being adepts at every form
of athletic exercise, including running, jumping, wrestling, <fce. If iron
was obtainable, the skates were made of this material, otherwise the
shank-bone of a sheep or deer, about a foot in length, would be used for
the purpose. Single skaters would sometimes use a long shaft of wood
spiked with bone or iron, with which they pushed themselves along the
ice. But it was the fashion then, as it always has been, to run in couples,
and may we not therefore picture many a happy love-match made between
British youth and maiden, as, wonderfully painted and skin-clad, they
skimmed over the moon-bright surface of Giggleswick Tarn ! It is to
be hoped that some day this interesting ancient feature will be restored
to its place in Nature, as the appearance of a lake winding for nearly a
mile beneath the magnificent range of scars, which forms its eastern
boundary, would so far enhance the prospect as to make it one of the
finest in Yorkshire. The scheme is admitted to be practicable, but it
should not be spoiled with too much Art. Nicely planted, the spot
would be very attractive.

An ebbing and flowing well also formerly existed at Tideswell, from which there is
little doubt the place derived its name. It is now choked up, and no person at
present alive seems to retain a certain recollection of its ebbing and flowing,
although water sometimes accumulates around the rubbish. In 1729 it was visited
by Mr. J. Martyn, who states in the Philosophical Transactions of that period,
that its tides were then very far from being regular. Sir A. Cockayne, in 1C58,
mentions it in the following rhyme,

* ; Here also is a well, whose waters do excel ,
All waters thereabout, both being in and out/*

See Glover's " History and Gazetteer of the County of Derby.

Daring the Saxon occupation mnch of the land appears to have
been in a good state of cultivation. There is no mention of waste in
the Domesday record. The following is the extract relating to this
district :

Tebba Rogkrii Pictavensis. (Land of Roger of Poictou).

Manor. In Ghigeleavvic Fech had four carucates to be taxed. In Stainforde
three carucates. In Rodemele (Rathmell) two carucates. In Chirchebi (Kirkby
Malham) two carucates. In Litone six carucates. These berewicks belong to the
above mentioned manor. Roger of Poictou now has them.

Manor. In Anele (Anley) Burun had three carucates of land to be taxed.
In Setel three carucates to be taxed. •

Manor. In Lanclif (Langcliffe) Fech had three carucates to be taxed.

Manor. In Stacuse (Stackhouse) Archil had three carucates to be taxed.*

It may be observed that Anley, then evidently a place of some note,
consists now of a single house. Giggleswick, being the capital viil of
the parish, had, there is every reason to believe, a church long anterior
to the Norman invasion. It is known that there were scores of churches
in existence at the time of the Conquest, many of them in ruins and
rendered valueless by the Danes, and of which no mention is made in the
Domesday survey. The earliest authentic references to a church here are
contained in an attestation of one "Laurentius, Persona de Guckilswic,"
to a charter of William de Percy, in the reign of Stephen, and in the
following charter of Matilda, Countess of Warwick, daughter of William
de Percy, the date being about a.d. 1160 :

" Sciant &c. me ded' et cone* Henrico de Puccaio, et cui assignari voluerit, et
he' dibus, villain meam de Setel, cum pertinentiis suis, et servicium de Gikleswic
cum advocations ecclesie pro xv marc, de argent et 1 palfr."

This Henry de Pudsay, to whom and his heirs and assigns, the town
of Settle and the rents of Giggleswick, with the advowson of the church
there, were thus granted, was one of the sons of Hugh de Pudsay, the
celebrated Bishop of Durham from a.d. 1153 to 1196, and Lord Chief
Justice of England.

* In the Domesday survey of the northern shires two phrases occur in the account of almost
every manor. These are the carucata ad gddum, the " geldable carucate," which was the fiscal
unit for purposes of taxation ; and the terra ad unam carucam, the " arable carucate," which was
the unit for agricultural purposes. This arable carucate is that which is so often mentioned in
contemporary documents, the geldable carucate being used chiefly in Domesday, which was a
record for fiscal purposes. Naturally these two measures of land have been confused. Fleta, a
writer on English Agriculture, who lived in the reign of Edward I., only two hundred years after
Domesday, gives an account of the carucate which is the key to the Domesday mensuration. He
■ays that if the land lay in three arable fields,— that is, if a three-year shift were adopted, the
whole carucate consisted of one hundred and eighty acres, sixty acres in one field for Winter
tillage, sixty acres in another for Lent tillage, and sixty acres in a third for fallow ; whereas in a
two-year shift, when the land lay in two fields, the carucate consisted of one hundred and sixty
acres, eighty for tillage, and eighty for fallow.— Canon Isaac Taylor.

The next important charter is from the said Henry de Pudsay,
concerning the churches of "Wicton and Giggleswick, of which the
following is a translation :

" To all the sons of the Holy Mother Church whom this letter shall reach, Henry
de Pud Bey [Henricusde Puteacho*] sends his sincere greeting. Let your community
know that I have granted and given, and in this my present deed confirmed
with a view to my reverence to God, and the safety of the soul of my father, and
my mother, and my own, and that of Dionysia my wife, and those of all my
ancestors, to God and the blessed Mary, and the blessed Cuthbert and St. Godric,
and to the Monks of Durham who minister to God, and the blessed Mary and the
blessed Cuthbert and St. Godric at Finchale, the Church of Wicton with all things
pertaining to it, and the Church of Giggleswick with all things pertaining to it,
for a pure and perpetual charitable bequest, free and secure from all secular service
and exaction, with all liberties and free customs whichsoever at any time the
aforesaid churches of Wicton and Giggleswick more freely, honourably, or securely
have held and possessed ; that is to say, in villa, or out of villa, with tofts, and
croft*, in wood, in the open, in highways, in footpaths, in moors and marshes, in
waters, in miltstreams and lakes, in meadows, in pastures, and in all other easements
pertaining to the aforesaid churches. These persons are witnesses, Master Henry,
the chamberlain, Master Allen de Richmond, Robert de Hadigton, Master William
de Blais, Master Richard de Haiton, Master Walter de Durham, Master Walter de
Hadigton, William de Besewill, and many others."

By this charter, which was confirmed by "William de Percy, as Lord
of the Percy Fee, the church of Giggleswick, with all its appurtenances,
became vested in the Benedictine Priory of Finchale, situated on the
banks of the Wear, and the Prior and Convent of Durham, as patrons
of that monastery, exercised the right of presenting to the vicarage of
Giggleswick up to the dissolution of religious houses in 1538, when the
patronage fell to the Crown.

About the year 1 600 the advowson was granted out, and for several
generations past the living has been in the alternate presentation of the
Hartley and Coulthurst families.

The church, which is at present undergoing a thorough and much-
needed restoration, occupies a warm and sheltered situation in the centre
of the village, surrounded by many picturesque dated houses of the
17th and 18th centuries. But in previous editions of the " Encyclopaedia
Britannica," the church is described as standing on the top of a limestone
rock 300 feet high, to which the ascent is by steps cut in the face of the
rock ! The topographer has evidently got mixed up with Castleberg, the
lofty limestone crag which overhangs the town of Settle. By whom the
church was originally built we have, as stated, no record. It is
dedicated, like that of Middleham, (which was also a possession of the
Priory of Finchale) to the Saxon Saint Alkelda, a Christian princess who

* There are half-a-hundred legalised forms of spelling this name. In Domesday, the town of
Pudsey, near Leeds, is written Podechesaie.

is believed to have been put to death by the Danes on account of her
religion. Her martyrdom may be seen depicted in an old window of
stained glass in the church at Middleham. The present building, which is
in the Perpendicular style of the early or middle part of the 16th century,
has a spacious interior — its extreme length being 132 feet — consisting of
nave of four bays, with clerestory ; chancel, with east window of six
lights ; north and south aisles to both nave and chancel, square embattled
western tower, and south porch. The porch was rebuilt in 1815, and is
repairable by the owners of Close House. Faculties were obtained in the
years 1738, 1742, and 1785 for the erection of galleries, which cannot
be said to have improved the interior aspect of the building. Under the
tower is a painting of the Koyal Arms, of the date 1716. In the south
aisle is a carved wood alms-box bearing the quaint inscription, u 1684,
Remember the Pore." But the most curious and remarkable object in
the church is the old carved oak pulpit (with sounding board) and
reading desk. The panels of the pulpit are handsomely and deftly
wrought with the names and badges of the Twelve Tribes of Israel,
(which are also depicted on the huge Royal Arms in the church),
represented as follows : Revbin, waves (" unstable as water ") Sim., stvord
(" instruments of cruelty ") Lev., a scroll, GAj) y flagofbattU (" He shall
overcome") Naph., a hind let loose, Ash., cup ("royal dainties,")
Judah, a rampant lion, Zeb., a ship, Isaac, an ass, Dan, a coiled serpent,
Joseph, an ox, Ben., a horse with cloven foot.

In front of the reading desk is cut, " Hear is the Standabdes qp
the Israelites when the to Canan cam agenest the Cananites,"
and on the sides the initials L L (Lawrence Lawson) ; R C (Robert
Carr) ; T C (Thomas Clapham) ; and W K (William Knipe), which
indicate the churchwardens for the year 1680. Amongst the many
monumental inscriptions in the church, one of the oldest reads :

Antonius Lister, A.M., hujus ecclesiae

Vicariua spe beatre resurrectionis
Hie quiescit. Vixit annos 69, incubuit 47.

Obiit 19 Februarii, A.D., 1685.

As vicar of Giggleswick for 47 years he must have been inducted at
the early age of 22, a practice, however, not unusual during the system
of preferment preceding the Act of Uniformity. In the south aisle
there is a monument in plaster, (dated 1698), to the Rev. Richard
Prankland, of Rathmell, and which has evidently been cast in the same
mould as that to the memory of General Lambert's son in Kirkby
Malham church.

The font was erected to the memory of the Rev. Rowland
Ingram, M.A. (1840), and to the east of it is the family vault of the
Paleys, where lie the remains of the parents of the celebrated Archdeacon

Paley. The brass reads : Here lie interred the Rev. William Paley, B.A.,
fifty-four years master of the Free School, who died September 29, 1799,
aged 88 years ; also Elizabeth, the wife of the Rev. William Paley, who
died March 9, 1796, aged 83 years. The Paleys evidently took their
name from the hamlet or locality lying some two miles to the west of
Giggleswick. Their name occurs as witnesses in the oldest local charters*
In the time of Queen Elizabeth, the principal branch of the family
appears to have been settled at Knight Stainforth, now called Little
Stainforth. Some of the family went to Leeds. Mr. Richard Paley, of
that town, was one of the original partners in the old-established firm of
ironworks at Bowling, near Bradford, and his nephew, Mr. John Green
Paley, son of Thomas Paley, of Langcliffe, was Chairman of the Bowling
Iron Co. from the year 1825 until shortly before his death in I860.*
Dr. Wm. Paley, Archdeacon of Carlisle, was born at Peterborough in
July, 1743, and died in 1805. His father, who held a minor canonry in-
the cathedral of that city, having in the year 1745 been appointed head
master of the Grammar School at Giggleswick, removed with his family
into this part of Craven, which, as stated above, had been the home of
his ancestors for many centuries. As the author of " Moral and Political
Philosophy," " Horae Paulinae," " Evidences of Christianity," and
" Natural Theology," Dr. Paley has bequeathed an imperishable legacy
to literature, and the influence of his noble work has spread to wherever
Christian men and women have gathered together. Every anecdote of
this great man, observes the learned Dr. Whitaker, will be interesting to
posterity. The following story, therefore, though not perhaps quite as-
classical as the Dr. himself would have quoted, at any rate serves to shew
the humour of the man. The Archdeacon, being naturally of a meditative
turn, was on one occasion observed by a friend gazing intently up the
valley from Settle bridge, and being asked what attracted his attention,,
turned quietly round, — " I was thinking," said he, " how like Penyghent
is to a raised pie !" Another story of a similar character may be related
of him. A party of students at Cambridge were once warmly arguing
what constituted the greatest happiness of human life, when Paley, who
had been patiently listening, suddenly interrupted the discussion with
his version of the blisses of life. Said he : " I differ from you all. The
greatest happiness in life consists in reading * Tristram Shandy ; 1 in
blowing with a pair of bellows into your shoes in hot weather, and in
roasting potatoes under the grate in cold weather."

Before the Reformation there were in or adjoining to this church
three chantries, viz. : that of Our Lady called the Stainford Chantry,
founded by Robert de Stainford, who was buried here 16 March, 1391,
and of the annual value of £4 ; Tempest's Chantry, on the north side,

* See Cudworth's " Historv of Bowling."

founded by Sir Richard Tempest, Kt., valued at £4 13s. 4d. ; and the
Roode Chantry, founded by James Carr, priest, valued at £6 Is. By
Act passed 1st Edward VI. (1547) these chantries were abolished, and
their revenues forfeited to the Crown. Whitaker remarks that there
were within memory, two cumbent statues, undoubtedly of the
Stainfords, which were foolishly or ignorantly removed to make way for
modern pews. Whither they were removed, or what had become of
either of them, remained unknown until last year (1891). During the
progress of restoration, whilst excavating in the choir, one of these
statues, sculptured in the habit of a knight, was discovered at a depth
of 18 in. below the surface. Two mutilated images of pre-Reformation
priests, as well as several ancient sepulchral slabs, were also found. It
looks as if the effigies had been concealed during the disturbed time of
Charles and the Commonwealth, and not ignorantly removed as our
Craven historian conjectured. It is noteworthy, by the way, that the
Registers of the church, which commence in 1558, are missing during
this unsettled period, viz. : from the end of March, 1626-7 to the end
of September, 1653, or an interval of 26£ years. As regards the Roode
Chantry, above mentioned, ifr is supposed to have been without the
church, in the old school-house adjoining, but Whitaker presumes that
this house may have been built by Carr for all the chantry-priests serving
at the different altars in the church, and their clerks. On the front
wall of the building there was an ornamental niche for two effigies,
ieneath which was an inscription in old characters :

Alma Dei Mater defende malis Jacobum Carr
Presbyteris quoq. clericulis hoc do in us fit. In anno
Mil. quint cent, d'no D'e J. H. N. Pater misere
Senes cum juvenibus laudate nomen Dei.

Mr. Thomas Brayshaw, of Settle, to whose careful and exhaustive
gleanings from local records I am much indebted, says that there was
a peculiar custom at Giggleswick of paying any clergymen who came to
preach there the sum of one shilling. In the parish book these payments
are kept distinct from others, and headed, " An Account of the Strainge
Parsons," in which the date is entered with the name of the preacher
and that of the churchwarden who made the payment. How or when
this payment originated does not transpire. The last entries appear to
have been about the year 1846.

The churchyard is entered by an old lych-gate, in the shadow of
stately elms, and opposite is a remarkable ancient stone cross raised on
three steps, and close by are the remains of the parish stocks. The
original purpose of this cross seems never to have been clearly ascertained.
In all probability it has served as a Market Cross in monkish times.

The following interesting communication to the Oentlemati's Magazine

upwards of a century ago, shews that like many another pleasing relic of

antiquity it has had a chequered existence :

Settle, July 28th, 1784.

Mb. Urban,— Emboldened by the general and ready admission you give to all
the branches of useful correspondence, I once more send an account of some
trivial antiquities in this neighbourhood, and which I apprehend have never yet
been noticed by any author, they lying too remote from the road, and I hope they
will meet with the approbation of the literati. The first is a curious antique cross,
now standing near the church in the town of Giggleswick, but of what sera is left
to the learned to determine, however its antiquity is undoubted, being U6ed many
years before its erection as a threshold in an old house, and its beautiful Gothic
head walled in. The house itself was ancient and is now pulled down. It might
probably belong to some monastery, (though neither author nor tradition informs
us of any being here), or might perhaps be set up in days of monastic splendour,
amongst the numerous ones at those times in being.

Tradition, through the channel of the inhabitants of Settle, informs us that
some of the Giggleswick residents stole it from the base of the old cross at Settle,
in order to prejudice the trial concerning the antiquity of the market, but this is
partial, and as it is an interested tale the inhabitants of Giggleswick deny the
assertion. This pillar is about five yards high, two yards are stuck in the ground
and walled up as a pedestal. I dare not assert whether it is Saxon or not. The
other figure is a coin, I suppose also inedited, the legends and characters are very
much defaced, however, it appears to be of the Edwards [Edw. IV.] An explanation
as to the age, antiquity, <fcc, of the above articles, will oblige, yours, W. F.

The old Grammar School at Giggleswick is now one of the most
flourishing and opulent institutions of the kind in the kingdom, having
been within the last thirty years entirely rebuilt and remodelled to meet
the provisions of the late Act. For upwards of three centuries it gave
a free education to all comers, having been founded in 1512 by James
Carr, and endowed in 1558 on the petition of the Kev. John Nowell,
vicar of Giggleswick, who was then Chaplain to King Edward VI.
The endowments consisted of lands, with the appropriations of the tithes
of the collegiate church of St. Andrew the apostle, at Nether Acaster,
lying at North Cave, Brampton, South and North Kelthorp, &c. Also
the appropriation of the lands belonging to the chantry of our Lady in
the parish church of Rise and Aldborough, in Yorkshire. The revenues,
which at the foundation were returned as of the annual value of £28 3s.,
amounted in 1844 to £1071 14s. 4d., and these have since considerably
increased ; while several valuable exhibitions and free scholarships also
have been added. There are at present upwards of 200 pupils in the
school, which is organised as a First Grade Modern School, and conducted
by a principal and seventeen masters. A large and convenient boarding
house or hostel adjoins the premises, while an additional boarding house
for younger boys only has been provided at Bankwell. There are also
swimming baths, sanatorium, gymnasia, a covered play-ground, and a

playing-field of 15 acres. There is an excellent library in the school
containing more than 3000 volumes. A portion of the old school has
been converted into a joiner's shop, where the pupils are taught wood-
turning and the like useful handicrafts. The whole of the premises have
been constructed on the most approved principles, and adapted to the
requirements of a first-rate modern school. That a wonderful change
has taken place since the early years of the century will be gathered from
the following interesting communication from Mr. J. S. Nicholson, of
Liverpool, a native of the district and an old pupil of the school. At
that time there were only about 50 pupils.

" The following facts and anecdotes," says Mr. Nicholson, " I had
from an old scholar of the school, and they relate to a period seventy odd
years ago*"

The school was then divided into two distinct portions, viz. : the High and Low
Schools, the upper story of the building being used for the former and the lower
for the latter. Boys were sent to the former who required only an English education,
whilst the latter was frequented by those who desired a classical education to fit
them for higher spheres in life. On certain days, however, the Low School boys
had to betake themselves upstairs, in order that the High School master could teach
them mathematics. The English or High School master (or writing and accounts
master, as he was then styled), was a Mr. 8 tack house, a man well qualified for the
post as regards ability, but who did not take that interest in his students (especially
of the High School) as he ought to have done, as the following little story will
show : — The late Mr. Marmaduke Arm i stead, of Stainforth, then a young man and
one of the head students of the Low School, one day having gone up stairs, thus
addressed the master — •* Mr. S.," he said, " why don't you teach your boys grammar ?''
" Teach my boys grammar," replied the master, " what do my lads want with
grammar, think'st thou 1 My lads will only be either shoemakers or tailors."
" Oh," said the student, " that's nothing to do with it ; you can't tell what they may
be, and you ought to do your duty by them." This master was a very easy-going
man, and allowed the lads under his charge to take many a liberty, nothing
delighting him better than a good yarn by one of the lads. My informant was
one day being examined by a neighbouring squire as to his bad spelling, and being
asked what school he went to, on being informed, inquired if he was not taught
spelling. The lad replied that one lesson a week was given in the school. The
gentleman then asked if they (the boys) were not taught grammar. The lad was
nonplussed, not knowing what grammar meant ; and on its being explained to him
and the question at the same time put, " Were there no grammars in the school ?"
the lad assured him, to his knowledge, he had never seen one. I myself know that
in more recent times the teaching of English grammar was more or less neglected."

Since 1512 the school has been several times rebuilt and enlarged,
and in a part of the old premises, (erected in 1834), in what was the
library room, is now arranged the interesting collection of remains from
the Victoria Cave, &c. The doorway of the building was erected by the
late Dean Howson and his brothers, to the memory of their mother.
One of the brothers, William Howson, was author of a short and now
scarce Guide to Craven, published by Wildman, of Settle, in 1850.

There is also at Settle, a good National School, which was principally
endowed by the Rev. John Clapham, M.A., who was instituted Vicar of
Giggleswick in 1782, and died in 1889. It is now controlled by a
governing body of twelve members, and conducted by a head master,
two assistant masters, and two mistresses.

As the Giggleswick Museum contains one of the most valuable
collections of ancient remains preserved in the country, as well as
numerotis other objects of interest, an epitome of its contents will not
be out of place here :

Collection presented by the Victoria Cave Committee, 1869 — 78. Stones
Introduced by Man, and many of them used by him an whetstones and hammer
stones, and for grinding and polishing. Pottery, Bronze and silver Coins of
the Roman occupation. Worked bones and ivory, forming pins, needles, spoon-
brooches, sword, and dagger handles, &c, some with incised patterns. Beads and
fragments of ancient glass.

Animal remains from the Victoria Cave, which include remarkably fine skulls
of male and female Grisly IBears, DIna of Cave Bear, Radius of Stag, bones of
Deer, Reindeer, Bison, Woolly Rhinoceros, Hippopotamus, and Hyenas ; milk-teeth
of young ElepliHs Antiquus ; a hamperful of complete skeleton water-rats ; a cast
of the " Bone of Contention," or Human Fibula, supposed pre-glacial.

Ancient Stone Celt found In a rabbit-bole at Neals Ing. Several glaciated
stones. Burial Urn found near Hellifield. Old Quern and Armour presented by
W. Morrison, Esq.. M.P. A collection of beautifully- mounted local and other
birds presented by T. R. Clapham, Esq., of Austwick Halt.

Case of Carboniferous fossils from Settle, Malham Moor, Clitheroe, fcc, including
Bucciniuvi imbricat, Jivnamplattu Dionyti, Pleurotemaria oridea, Orthoeenu
Hitdiilata, Qoniatitei mutaiUU, ProdMctm, (several good species) Ctenodvnta,
Cladi'dvn, Helodvl, Atnplervi. Syrkngopora, etc.

The key of the Museum is kept by Mr. Brown, whose house adjoins
the school.

CHAPTER II.

Settle.

Old Settle — The post-town of the parish — Unique sun-dial— Castleberg and its
watch-tower —Charter of market— Visits of old topographers — Coiners and
filers— Craven Bank— Mediaeval aspects of Settle — Saxon medal found within
the market-cross — The church — Old inns— Trade-tokens — Settle during the
Civil Wars -Letter from General Lambert— The *• Folly "—Proctor, the
sculptor— Some men of note — Longevity at Settle — Quality of the land—
Rainfall — Snow Castle— Modern institutions — Farms and gardens — Statistics
of trade. *

jNVIRONED by scenery of very varied and romantic interest
the old town of Settle is uncommonly well placed. Rural
highways and by-ways, field paths and mountain paths,
converge upon the town from all directions, making it
undoubtedly one of the best and pleasantest centres of exploration in
the district. Although in spiritual affairs it has always been an
appendage of Griggleswick, yet in temporal concerns, as the market and
post-town of the parish, it has long held precedence. Its market dates
from about a.d. 1250, while that of Giggleswick was probably anterior,
but of its origin nothing is known. The precipitous scar which rises
behind the town to a height of three hundred feet gives to the place a
distinguishing and picturesque appearance, and in any view of it from
the south and west the hanging wood and rocky top of Castleberg form
a prominent and characteristic background. The slopes of this
miniature mountain, says Whitaker, once formed the gnomon of a rude
but magnificent sun-dial, the shadow of which, passing over some gray
self -stones upon its side, marked the progress of time to the inhabitants
of the town beneath ; an instrument more ancient than the dial of
Ahaz. When this remarkable flag-stone dial ceased to exist there is
apparently no record. The stones were certainly not there when the
crag was planted, nor when the winding path was made to the top a
century ago.

It is more than probable that there have been habitations on this site
from the earliest period of recorded history ; and, indeed, long before
then, as I have already pointed out, the old Celtic invaders had fixed

themselves by the side of Giggleswick Scars, while the stone circle near
Anley, and the discovery there of two burial urns, are almost conclusive
proof of a permanent settlement in this vicinity, whose very name
even, is lost in the darkness of antiquity. Here the situation being
sheltered and commanding, so favourable a spot would not, for defensive
reasons, be overlooked by any tribes who were driven to these wilds by
stress of conquest. As houses fell to decay others were built on their sites,
but as civilisation advanced habitations descended, and gradually spread
themselves over the reclaimed lands below. Moreover, it is no mere picture
of the fancy to call up the time when the echoes of old Castleberg were
roused by the Roman horns, as the conquering legions ascended the old
road over High Side and Malham Moor, which runs towards Grassington.
Quarries for the making and repair of these roads have been worked in
the district from the earliest times. By the Romans too, it is pretty certain,
for in the year 1788, in one of these old quarries was found, lodged in a
crevice between two masses of rock, which the delvers were about to
remove, a large quantity of Roman coins, chiefly of the two Constantines.
There is but little doubt, too, that in the latter days of the empire,
Settle was a Roman station, or at least, it had mansiones, or inns, where
travellers could be accommodated and horses changed, before mounting
the steep hills behind the town. On the top of Castleberg, there would
be a fort and watch-tower, and there is a local belief current that at
some early time such was the case. Traces of Roman camps and
fortifications still abound on the high ground above Castleberg, and relics
of the same period have been found in the neighbouring caves. When
the Saxons came here they called the place, appropriately enough, Setl,
(A.S. a seat or settlement), and at the Norman Conquest it was constituted,
with Anley, a "separate manor of Giggleswick, which latter place the
Saxons had fixed upon as the head quarters of the parish. Doubtless
the parish church was located there then as it is now.

As a market-town Settle has had several charters granted to it, the
earliest extant being of the time of Henry III. But the following grant,
dated 24th May, 1708, may be quoted, as its terms are those on which,
for now nearly two centuries, the town has continued uninterruptedly to
hold its markets.

"A Confirmation to Richard, Earl of Burlington, and his heirs, of anantient
Weekly Market on Tuesday, and a Fair yearly held for three days on the Vigil,
upon the day and on the morrow of St. Lawrence within the manor of Setel in the
County of York. And also a grant to him and his heires of severall other new
ffaires to "be held yearly within the town of Setel in the said county on the days
following, vizt. — One ffair on the Tuesday next before Palm Sunday for the buying
and selling all sorts of cattle, goods, wares, and merchandizes. Another on the
15th of April for sheep, another on Tuesday next after Whitsunday, for all sorts
of cattle, goods, wares, and merchandizes, another on the 2Srd June for lambs,

another on the 12th October for sheep, another on the Tuesday next after the 16th
day of October for all sorts of cattle, goods, wares, and merchandizes, and another
on Fryday in every other weeke during three months successively, yearly, to begin
on ffryday before Easter, for buying and selling all sorts of cattle.

According to Her Majestie's pleasure signified by Warrant, under Her Royal

Signe Manual, countersigned by Mr. Secretary Boyle, subscribed by Mr. Solicitor

Generall.

John Tench, Deputy to Thomas Gosling Esq.*

In the autumn of 1769 the poet Gray visited Settle, where, attracted
by the *' neatness and civility " of his landlady, he remained over two
nights. His remarks, however, do not flatter the aspects of the town at
that period. " It is a small market-town," he says, " standing directly
under a rocky fell ; there are not in it above a dozen good-looking
houses ; the rest are old and low, with little wooden porticos in front."
Ten years later the Rev. J. Hutton made a tour through the district, and
he says, " Settle is irregularly built, has a large and spacious market-
place, but not many good houses in it. Though by no means an
inconsiderable town either for trade, riches, or number of inhabitants,
it has no church or chapel. The church is at Giggleswick, about a mile
off, which appeared to be the court end of the parish." Again, in 1778,
the famous antiquarian and topographer, Thomas Pennant, came into
the town, and his record is this, — "At the foot of a monstrous lime-stone
rock, called Castleberg, that threatens destruction, lies Settle, a small
town in a little vale, exactly resembling a shabby French town with a
* place ' in the middle. Numbers of coiners and filers lived about the
place, at this time entirely out of work, by reason of the salutary law
respecting the weight of gold."

It is amusing how alarmingly the old writers speak of the rugged
and abrupt approaches to the town from the east, which gives one the '
impression that a foot descent into it were indeed a perilous undertaking,
and had been best made by the aid of ropes, or even by balloon.
The roads at this end are certainly steep, and are hardly to be recommended
to the cyclist, but to the pedestrian who is not stinted to time, a walk
up these breezy heights will be more than recompensed by inhaling the
invigorating air, and enjoying the glorious view that opens out when
once the summit is gained. From the top of Castleberg, where seats
have been placed, the prospect northwards and westwards is exceedingly
fine, embracing a vast expanse of rich agricultural country southwards
to Burn Moor and Pendle Hill, with the long flat ridge of Whelpstone
Crag standing out conspicuously to the west, and beyond is Croasdale
Fell, like a miniature Ingleborough ; while looking up the romantic

* The reader may remark that the signatories to this charter, Tench and Gosling, in conjunction
with Mr. Secretary Doyk, seem not inappropriate appendices to the belongings of a market I

valley of the Kibble the cone-like top of Smearaide, with Swarth Moor,
Moughton Fell, and Penyghent, are prominent. The beautifully wooded
slopes above Giggleswick rise opposite to us, and deep below nestles
compactly the little town of Settle ; its old, narrow streets, and odd.
complex buildings of two and three stories, jutting npon each other at
all angles, with the high-pitched roof and bell- turret of its well-built
Town Hall apparent, and many good new houses rivenvards, all combining
to form an attractive scene. This grand old rock was for many years
figured on the paper money of the Craven Bank, which was first
established at Settle in 1791. But from 1817 a picture of the well-
known Craven Heifer was substituted for that of Castleberg.

The shabby French look attributed to it by Pennant cannot be said
to belong to the town now, for although there is much that is quaint and
old remaining, yet re-building and improvements in various directions
have done much to modernise its general appearance. The little wooden

Market Place, Settle.

porticos referred to by Gray have long since disappeared ; the last having
been removed about the year 1833, when the Town Hall was built. But
it would assuredly be a great pity to eradicate every ancient feature of
the place, a proceeding happily not likely to occur, as many of the oldest
houses, erected between two and three centuries ago, have been soundly
and substantially built, and are, in consequence, not likely to be removed.
Indeed it is pleasing to note that a laudable movement has recently been
promoted for the purpose of watching over such objecta of antiquity in
the town as are worthy to be preserved. Had every ancient town such a

guardian society, our knowledge of past history and events, and especially
of the inner life of the people, as shewn by the domestic architecture,
would be much more complete than it is. Thousands of cottages, houses,
and public buildings illustrative of vanished eras, or of the circumstances
under which they were built, have been " improved away " within quite
recent times, and thus, destroyed often without record, authentic and most
valuable sources of history have been irretrievably lost. The home life of
a people is revealed largely in local architecture, and if this be allowed to
pass out of remembrance, the knowledge we have gained from experience
is partially lost, and history becomes patched. The Settle association
inaugurated its existence by the purchase of that very interesting and
picturesque block of buildings known as the Shambles, which lends such
an air of genuine antiquity to the big market square. No one seems to
know how long it has stood here, but so familiar has this time-honoured
fabric become to the generations of buyers and sellers who have assembled
before it, that without the old Shambles Settle would hardly be Settle.
The old building has lately undergone a mild restoration, but without
any infringement of its original features.

In the year of Her Majesty's accession a church was built at Settle.
It is in the Early English style, and comprises a chancel, nave, and
embattled tower at the west end. It has a neat interior, but a peculiarity
in the construction of the church is that it stands north and south. In
the year of the Queen's Jubilee, a peal of six bells, cast by Warner, of
London, and hung by the Yorkshire firm of Mallaby Bros., was added,
and in the belfry a brass plate records : " This peal of bells was raised
by subscription in 1887, the fiftieth year of the reign of Queen Victoria,
and dedicated to the glory of God, and the welfare of His Church.
Jackson Mason (Vicar), Thomas Clark, John Handby (Churchwardens). "
When the church was built, the old bridge over the Ribble was widened,
the eastern or older portion shewing three arched " ribs " of single blocks
of grit, fashioned in a similar style to the Devil's Bridge at Kirkby
Lonsdale, while the western or new half of the bridge has ordinary flat
masonry. The new road to Giggleswick, which now passes under the
monster viaduct of the Carlisle line, was made at the same time. Formerly
the road to Giggleswick left the Market Place by way of Kirkgate, one of
the oldest thoroughfares in Settle. The ancient Toll Booth was removed
in 1832. It occupied the site of the present Town Hall, and near to it
stood the Market Cross. It is stated by a writer in the Gentleman's
Magazine for 1785, (the same whose letter I have quoted on the
Giggleswick Cross), that the old Settle Cross having become ruinous about
that time was taken down, and in the inside was the appearance of another
cross or pillar, rudely designed, upon which were found two or three silver
coins, (unhappily lost), along with a small circular medal about an inch

in diameter, incised with a carious scroll-pattern and five rings or cavities,
along the edges, with the device of a wheel in the centre. It is conjectured
to be Saxon, and was " carried to be shewn at an honourable court, when
a great cause was depending to prove the antiquity of Settle as a market
town." The old Jail, or Black Hole, was a wretched underground
dungeon entered by a flight of steps at the foot of the cross, and which
thirty odd years ago, stood between the present Fountain and the Town
Hall. It was then filled up and the road macadamised, so that its presence
is not now discernible. The old cross now forms the top of the Fountain
a few yards off. Close to the steps of the cross stood the stocks, which
were entirely of wood, and, according to Mr. Brayshaw, the honour of
having been the last person to occupy them involuntarily lies between
" Tal Bradley " and " Jimmy Carr." " Tal " was a fruit hawker, and
it is said used to sell more oranges whilst in durance than at any other
time. The stocks are now kept in the Court House.

In Upper Settle the old Cattle Pound may still be seen, where lost or
stray animals were kept until claimed by their rightful owner. This
was effected in a curious way. The pindar — or pound keeper — broke a
piece of stick in two, giving one part to the finder and retaining the
other himself, so that when the cattle were redeemed and the reward was
made, this could only be done upon production of the stick, as a means
of identification. A very happy and original "promissory" in days before
School Boards !

About the Market Place are several very old inns, one of which exhibits
a stone figure of a naked man or boy, holding a shield inscribed I C 1663.
Signs of the Naked Man, Boy, and Woman, though not common, are
still to be met with in various places, but many have been discontinued
or other titles substituted for them. Their meaning has puzzled many
antiquaries, but there can be no doubt they originated as a satire upon
the whims of our ancestors in the matter of dress. In the days of the
"Merry Monarch," fashion was so capricious, that many tailors and
drapers adopted these signs as a jeu tfesprit upon the ever-changing
fashions of the time. In the " Comedy of Errors," (Act iv., Sc. 3),
Shakespeare evidently alludes to the sign of the Naked Man, where
Dromio exclaims : " What, have you got the picture of old Adam new
apparelled ? — Not that Adam that keeps the Paradise, but that Adam
that keeps the Prison ; he that goes in the calf s-skin that was killed for
the prodigal." At Moorfields, in Middlesex, a tailor's sign portrayed a
naked boy, with the couplet :

" So fickle is our English nation,
I would be clothed if I knew the fashion.' 1

At Langcliffe, near Settle, was an inn called the Naked Woman, the
stone effigy of which still remains in front of the house.

When there was a scarcity of copper coinage in England in the time
of Charles II., several Settle tradesmen issued their own pence and
half -pence ; trade-tokens as they were called. They were first issued in
the year 1648-9, and continued in use until 1672, when they were
superseded by copper money from the Royal Mint. One of these local
coins shews the arms of the Drapers' Company in the field, with the
inscription : " William Taylor, in Setle," and on the reverse, " I will
exchaing my penny, 1668." No doubt the said Wm. Taylor would reap
a rich harvest by these vagaries of fashion, for the inhabitants of Settle
and district, and especially the fair sex of this rich agricultural country,
would be, we may be sure, attired " up to date." Taylor was one of
four who held the then important office of churchwarden for the parish
of Giggleswick in 1662.

It must be observed, however, that during the Civil War of Cromwell's
time, the district had suffered disastrously from the prevalent disorder
and insecurity, as also from the actual depredations of the troops which
overran Craven for a number of years. Among papers preserved at
Browsholme Hall, is an interesting but piteous account of various losses
which the Parker family, of that house, sustained from the pillage of
the soldiers " which lay at Thornton and Gisburne at several times."
General Lambert, of Calton Hall, who was early in the field, was appealed
to, and with that sense of firm justice and magnanimity which seems always
to have guided him, issued the following Letter of Protection,

" To all Captaines, Lieutenants, and all other Officers and Souldiers
w'thin the liberties of Craven " :

'• Thei^e are to Charge and require you and everie of you that you forbear to
enter the house of Edward Parker of Brouseholme. Esqr., by night, or to take anie
horses or other goods from him, eyther w'thin the house, or w'hout the house,
Eyther by day or by night, w'thout speciall command from mee : as you and everie
of you will answer the Contrarie at yo'r p'ills [perils].

Given at Gigleswick, under my hand the Nyneteenth daie of December, 1643.

John Lambert."

While Lambert was stationed at Giggleswick no doubt the church
was garrisoned with his troops. Local records of the campaign, however,
are but slight, as the parish documents for a long period (1627 — 1653)
were either secretly removed and have not been restored, or they were
maliciously destroyed. Many of the soldiers would be billetted at the
inns and private houses in the two villages, but these houses were not, with
few exceptions, the same as are now existing. Most of the present
buildings were erected after the Restoration, when the country was
beginning to recover from the effects of the war. That Settle and the
neighbouring villages were not slow in regaining their old prestige, is

evident from the large proportion of houses that were built about this
time. Failing local records, we find in the Skipton parish registers this
entry :

11 1642, Dec. 23, Edward Waddington, sonne of Richd. Waddington, of Horton,
who was slayne in Settle."

Two years after the death of Charles L, the Craven men were again
up in arms, for his son, afterwards Charles II., had been declared with
mock pomp King of his late father's dominions. Charles was on his
way south from Scotland, and had encountered some rather awkward
surprises from the Parliamentary army during his progress toward the
royal town of Lancaster. In August, 1651, we find the army of
Lambert encamped at Settle, and on the 11th of that month the General
addressed this communication to the Council of State :

*' Through the mercie of God we have now reached the enemy, being as near
you as they are. We are this night with five of our best regiments of horse
quartered at Settle-in-Craven, one hundred and forty miles from St. Johnston,
where we were on Sunday seven-night. The enemie as we hear are quartered about
Lancaster. They have not above 4,000 horse and dragoons and 8,000 foot, and
these are very sickly and drop off daily."

Little more than a fortnight afterwards the finale of this sad broil
was played out, as everyone knows, on the field at Worcester, when
the Royalists were hopelessly routed. During the heat of the battle, it is
worth while noting, the horse which Lambert rode was shot under him,
and had it not been for the marked coolness which he displayed amid the
excitement of the occasion, there is little doubt the great commander
would have been killed. For his distinguished services he was granted
lands in Scotland of the annual value of one thousand pounds.* But
these he was not privileged to enjoy very long. At the Restoration in
1660 he lost all, and died a recluse in the island of Guernsey some thirty
years later. Such, alack ! are the fortunes of history and of its great
leaders !

The " bone and sinew " of Craven has ever been conspicuous in the
British ranks, when England has had hi duty " abroad. The old pluck
and endurance of the Craven " lads " arej proverbial, and around Settle
a willingness to uphold the honour of England , has been perhaps more
notable than elsewhere. At the Field of Flodden in 1513, for example,
out of a muster roll of 321 from 31 Craven villages, Giggleswick sent
24 and Settle 34 men, or together one sixth of the entire number.

* Also, some years later, after the death of Cromwell, his signal defeat of Sir
George Booth, at Northwich, earned for him the thanks of Parliament, along with
a present of a rare jewel, of the value of £1000. — What, pray, has become of this
interesting trophy ?

Again, during the threatened invasion of our country at the end of last
century, a meeting to consider the position of affairs was held at Settle,
on August 21st, 1794. A company of Volunteers was at once formed, and
this heroic proceeding evoked the ardour of the Muse in the shape of a
spirited and curious poem, writ by one Robert Kidd, a master of the
Grammar School at that time. The tract was printed by Troughton of
Settle, and is now scarce. A few energetic lines may be quoted :

" All Hail ye Gents ! all hail this festive Day,
Success attend it, with propitious Ray ;
May loyal Meetings your Importance spread,
You guard the Nation, and the King's your head I
******

Permit me, Gents, a Question here to ask,
1*11 give the Answer, and save you the Task ;
What is't that prompts your valiant Souls to move ?
'Tib manly Courage, and your country's Love.

He might have added in the same fervent key :

An honest soldier never is forgot,
Whether he die by musket or by pot.

While mentioning the old inns and houses at Settle, I must not omit
one known as the " Folly." It is a large incomplete mansion built by a
family of the name of Preston, but as the means wherewith to finish
it was not forthcoming, the house carries a tell-tale name. It has a fine
seventeenth century front, in the domestic style of the Stuart period, and
some notable oak work inside, including a spacious staircase and wains-
cotted room with secret passage, and large open fireplaces. The interior
is now altered into cottages. Over the main entrance are the initials,
(apparently) R T P and the date, says Whitaker, is 1675, but the carving is
nearly effaced. In the list of churchwardens collated by Mr. Brayshaw,
I find the names of Robt. Preston (Settle) for 1651 ; Richd. Preston
(Giggleswick) for 1653 ; Richd. Preston (Settle) for 1661 ; Wm. Preston
(Giggleswick) for 1662 ; Wm. Preston (Settle) for 1666 ; and Richd.
Preston (Settle) for 1683. In coaching days there were more inns in
the town than there are now, and one of these which dropped out of
existence some thirty years ago, possesses a special interest in its being
the birth-place of one of the most notable men of his time. This was
the Spread Eagle, a good three-story house, situated at the back of the
present Ashfield hotel, and here in 1753, the famous sculptor, Thomas
Proctor, was bom. In his 25th year he was admitted a student of the
Royal Academy, and in 1782 and 1783 he obtained silver medals, and the
gold medal in 1784, but in 1794 he died at the early age of 41, while
preparing a visit to Rome, at the instance of Benjamin West. His two
best works, which received high praise from many eminent artists, and

are undoubtedly masterpieces in execution, are " Ixion on the Wheel, 1 ' and
"Diomed devoured by his Horses." They were in the possession of
Sir A. Hume in 1838. Some rough sketches of the sculptor's early years-
were, until lately, to be seen in the dairy of his old home. As a peculiar
interest attaches to a name it may be mentioned that another house of
like sign, — the Spread Eagle, in Bread Street, London, was the birth-place
of one of England's most gifted scholars, that " mighty orb of song," as
Wordsworth calls him, — John Milton, the author of Paradise Lost, &c.

Other good and useful men are closely associated, either by reason of
birth or family ties, with the past history of Settle. Such are Dr. George
Birkbeck, the founder of Mechanics' Institutes, who died in 1841, and
whose monument, with an inscription by his friend Lord Brougham,
adorns the old Mechanics' in the town ; the Rev. William Ermystead or
Armistead, founder of the Skipton Free Grammar School in 1548, who was
Canon Residentiary of St. Paul's, London, and Chaplain to Queen Mary ;
the Shutes, to whom old Fuller pays a just and feeling tribute, the Listers,
Dawsons, Paleys, and others connected with the Giggleswick School.

I may remark here that the family name of Settle occurs locally in
charters as old as Henry III.

Among the residents at Settle in the last century was the Countess of
Gyllenborg, daughter of a former Ambassador and Prime Minister of
Sweden. She was a very accomplished lady, and had a pension both from
Sweden and Hesse Cassel, and for several years resided in London. In the
latter part of her life she took up her residence in Settle, where she died
in January, 1766. She became the wife of his Excellency Baron Sparre,
(who served under Charles XII. in all his campaigns, and was taken
prisoner with him at the battle of Pultowa), by whom she left issue an
only daughter, the Hon. Amelia Wilhelmina Melifina Sparre, born in
1733, to whom Frederick, Prince of Wales, was godfather, and who died
unmarried at Thirsk, in Yorkshire, October 5th, 1778.*

As a place of residence, or of temporary sojourn, the crisp and
appetising limestone air of this neighbourhood has been frequently
extolled. So numerous are the instances of longevity that we might fill
several pages with records of natives who have lived from eighty to one
hundred years and upwards, and who had never been ten miles from
home. In fact we have heard it stated, but it certainly requires proof,
that no stranger invalid has ever been known to die at Settle ! There
is, assuredly, no equal area in England where doctors are fewer and
farther apart. In looking over the Settle and Giggleswick churchyards
some time ago, partly to test the above statement, I noticed in the former
a neat headstone to the memory of a native of Holyhead, in Wales, whose

* See Gentleman's Magazine for 1766 and 1781.

death here at Settle in 1873 is recorded at the age of 19. It seems, however,
that this young man was engaged on the Settle and Carlisle line, and was
killed by the fall of a crane. He appears to have been very much
respected, for a very large concourse of people assembled at the funeral,
and his tombstone, bearing a Welsh epitaph, was erected by public
subscription. " Tommy " Twistleton, late of Winskill, made the incident
the subject of a touching little poem.

Rain, though falling heavier here than at most places, is quickly
absorbed by the porous nature of the underlying rock, and the paths and
roads soon become dry. In summer the effects of heat are felt sometimes
intensely, owing to the open character of the country, and the common
absence of trees. These, however, are often more numerous than appears
from the large extent of country comprised in the coup (Tail. About
Malham, for instance, Mr. Morrison, of the Tarn Hall, has planted very
nearly a million trees within the last thirty years, but, as I have heard
it remarked, you can hardly see a single one for rocks ! In winter snow
falls in certain places to a great depth, necessitating spade work on the
roads frequent. An unusual and pretty scene was witnessed in the town
in February, 1888, when about one hundred children were entertained to
tea, &c, in an immense snow castle, erected in Kirkgate after a heavy fall.

In an interesting Government Report on the state of Agriculture in
the Kingdom in 1793, we gather that, "The nature of the soil in the
neighbourhood of Settle is what is called a hazel mould, incumbent upon
a dry bottom. The farms are generally small, and the occupiers seldom
have leases. Great part of the higher grounds are still common, and
consequently unimproved ; they are pastured with sheep and Scots cattle,
which are afterwards fed off upon the lower grounds. The sheep bred
here are called the Malham breed, and we receive favourable accounts of
them. Considering the great quantity of waste ground, it is surprising
the proprietors have not turned their attention more to planting, as we
received great complaints of the scarcity of wood, [see above']. Coals are
likewise scarce which it was thought might be remedied, if proprietors
were disposed to hold out rewards or favourable leases to those who
discovered them." The following abstract from the same report, on the
prices of labour and provisions at that time, offers some interesting
contrasts with the present. Thus a century ago : " A man servant gets
about ten guineas per year, with board and washing in his master's
house ; a woman about five guineas, with the same ; day labourers in
husbandry about 2s. or 2s. 6d. per day, finding their own victuals ;
about ten years ago Is. or Is. 2d. was the common price ; the advance
owing to the introduction of the cotton manufactory into a country so
little populous. They work from six to six in summer, and from eight to
dark in winter. Provisions : beef, mutton, veal, and pork, about 4^d. per

pound of 16 oz8. ; butter about Is. or Is. Id. per pound of 22 ozb. ; wheat
about 8s. per Winchester bushel ; oats 28s. or 80s. per quarter." The
parish was then (1798) estimated to contain 14,685 acres in grass,.
815 acres arable, 150 acres waste, 800 acres in oats, and 15 acres in
barley. In 1798 the population of the parish was 2200 ; at present
(excluding Langcliffe) it is about 4000.

Settle is now the centre of a large Poor Law Union, which includes
thirty townships, and extends east and west from Arncliffe to Bentham
and Ingleton, and north and south from Horton-in-Ribblesdale to
Otterbum and Wigglesworth, an area of about 200 square miles. The
population of the Union ill 1891 was 14,071, or an increase of 271 on
the last census. The town, which is now lighted with gas, is well
provided with institutions and clubs for the social and educational wants
of the people. The Institute holds the library of about 10,000 volumes
of the Settle Literary Society, which is one of the oldest circulating
libraries in the provinces, and includes among its literary treasures many
first editions and rare works. Besides the two churches mentioned at
Giggleswick and Settle, there are in Settle a Eoman Catholic Chapel,
re-built in 1888, a Wesleyan Chapel dating from 1809, an Independent
Chapel built in 1816, and one for the Primitive Methodists erected in
1841. The Friends were established here soon after the earliest
ministrations of Fox in Craven, over two centuries ago, and still have a
small Meeting-house in the town. The earlier members endured many
losses and privations in the days of State intolerance. One Samuel
Watson, of Knight Stainforth, a leading member of the persuasion,
appears on his own statement to have had his head badly " punshed " and
to have suffered repeated penalties and imprisonment, rather than submit
to the doctrines of the Establishment. His memoirs for 1659 tell of his-
coming to speak "in the Steeple House at Giggleswick, when he was
pulled down, and his head broke against the seats, and was afterwards
haled out, and thrown upon the ice." In the old Quaker journal of
Thomas Story, of Kendal, are also several references to Settle and
neighbourhood. Under date October 2nd, 1728, he tells us that he
visited Skipton, and the next day went " to a ministring Friends' Meeting
at Settle ; and the day following was at another, being a monthly meeting
at the same place, and lodged at William Burbeck's." The Freemasons
appear to have been in united fellowship here over a century ago, for
there was a " Black Bull " Lodge constituted at Settle under die Atholl
Masons, June 7th, 1774, as No. 188, which for about fifteen years wa&
the Masonic centre of the Craven District. In 1875 the Order was
revived, and a warrant signed by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales,
Grand Master, was issued, authorising the formation of the "Castleberg"
Lodge, No. 2091. The " Independent Order of Rechabites," said to be

the oldest, largest, and wealthiest Temperance Friendly Society in
existence, has a " Tent " at Settle, the members of which meet every
fourth Monday in the Mechanics' Hall. The " Friendly United Order
of Mechanics," and the " Loyal Triumphant Lodge of Oddfellows," are
also established here, with large members' rolls.

The farming and gardening interests of the district are strongly
and influentially represented by the "North Ribblesdale Agricultural
Association," and the "North Craven Horticultural Society," which
annually hold their Shows at Settle.

The various trades of the district comprise cotton spinning, leather
tanning, a paper mill, saw mill, and several limestone quarries. The
cotton industry, which is of old standing in this neighbourhood, is
now chiefly carried on at the works of Mr. Hector Christie, at Langcliffe.
These mills are very pleasantly and fortunately situated, (having an
excellent water supply) in the dale about a mile from Settle. They
formerly belonged to a Mr. Clayton, then to a family named Bashall,
and about thirty years ago came into the possession of Mr. Christie, who
has since run them, and who has done much to promote the general
welfare of the district. Mr. Christie is the County Councillor for the
Settle division of the West Riding.

The subjoined abstract is from Baines' "History of the Cotton
Manufacture " (1885) and shews the relative importance of this industry
among some of the Craven towns :

Towns.

No, of Mills.

Horse Power.
Steam. Water.

Total number
of people
employed.

Settle ...

... o •

.. 30

• • «

... oud

Grassington

... o

—

• •

130

Kettlewell

•>

... £d

—

• i

... oo

Skipton...

... b •

.. 90

• • i

605

Gargrave

• • t

149

Addingham

... £i

—

• •

... 2Joo

Haworth

•2

... u

—

• • i

Colne ...

. . 149

• •

186

... 1677

Barnoldswick

... t)

... 20

• • i

172

Sedbergh

... £i

—

• • i

198

Ingleton

... o <

... 20

• • «

186

OATTEKrcE Force.

CHAPTER III.

GlGGLESWICK, StACKHOUSE, LOCKS.

" Pray pardon me, if now I raise
A stave or two to sound the praise

Of Craven's hills and caves ;
Of fertile daals, an' flowin' brooks,
Of watter-faus an* shady nooks,

Whar t' fir an' t* hazel waves'.
Whar cliffs uprear their shaggy waus,
And down below a streamlet flows,

Wi' rough an' blusterin' din ;
While masses of projectin' rock
Owerhing as if the slightest shook

Wad send 'em thunderin' in." — Tom Twigtleton.

Giggleswick— The Mid Craven Fault— Plague Stone— Bell Hill and Pagan Fires-
Settle Bridge and Penyghent— Stackhouse — Lovely Residences — Brayshaw
and Carr Families — Locks— Return Walk.

|T is not a simple matter in the ragged and semi-trackless
country I am about to describe, where much that is curious
and interesting lies off the beaten routes, to plan our walks
so systematically that everything can be visited without much deviation,
and in the least time. As most people, however, arrive by either of the
two railway stations before mentioned, we will commence our rambles
from the one at Giggleswick, and in so doing I commend the visitor's
attention to the old stone walls which run forward to that village and to
Settle. Composed of a remarkably coarse grit, so inordinately full of
white quartz pebbles, they have almost the appearance after rain of
having been snowed upon. This grit-stone is quarried at the base of
the carboniferous limestone which forms the fine scars of the Mid Craven
Fault, and should in the natural sequence of strata overlie the limestone,
but owing to this tremendous fracture has been thrown down hundreds
of feet below it, but we shall have more to say about this later on.
Before the railway was made, this now broad and well-kept high-road
was only a narrow lane, with openings for carts to pass, and went by the
present station on to the main road for Lancaster.

About fifty yards from the station, and built into the wall on the
right, is a large roughly-squared block with a shallow cavity in the centre.
This is believed to be the socket of an ancient cross, and to have done
duty for a boundary stone, a holy-well, and a plague-stone. During the
plagues which ravaged Craven, and Yorkshire generally, in the 16th and
17th centuries, such stones were to be found in the neighbourhoods of
the infected villages, and there appear to have been several on the roads
around Settle. The inhabitants were forbidden to come beyond a certain
radius of the village in which they lived, and orders for goods and
provisions were communicated to the vendors by written requests
deposited on these stones with the money in payment, which was then
disinfected by the recipients in the basin or cavity of the stone, usually
containing lime water or vinegar, and the goods left in exchange. In
some of the worst districts, as at Eyam in Derbyshire, there were cordons
of militia stationed round the infected villages, in the interests of the
public safety, but it must be pleaded, greatly to the credit of these places,
that during this sad and perilous time the people behaved most heroically,
and indeed with marvellous self-sacrifice, and there were but few attempts
to escape.

Ob arriving at the pretty village of Giggleswick, described in our
first chapter, the visitor should inspect the fine old Church and interesting
Museum. This village, by the way, is not, as a local innkeeper once
tried to persuade the writer, " within a stone's throw of the station," at
least if it is, the man who threw the stone is greatly to be admired, — he
would carry all before him at every athletic contest of the kind in the
kingdom. It is a good ten minutes 1 walk.

But now let us climb Bell Hill, as that part of the road between
Giggleswick and the Ribble bridge, on the way to Settle, is called.
There is a low, picturesque old house at the foot of the hill, at present
occupied by the curate, which at one time was the residence of the family
of the celebrated Archdeacon Paley. Bel or Bell Hill, is usually written
Belle, but this, I think, is wrong. It has nothing to do with the French
word for beautiful, but is derived, as so many others are of like appellation
in this part of England, from the Celtic bel, a ford, or heal or baal, a
feast-fire of the primitive inhabitants, still kept up in some parts of
Ireland and France at the present day. In hilly districts such named
places, when connected with high ground are more likely to carry with
them the latter meaning, for they are invariably found in proximity to
pre-historic Celtic settlements and their attendant remains. I have
already shown that Giggleswick was an important British station, and
there is no doubt that the bel fires were kindled on the anniversaries of
their feasts. Dr. Whitaker says that the custom of lighting fires on the
adjacent hills lingered here until within the memory of those then living,

which would be a little over a century from now, but that in these later
times they were known as Kennel fires, — doubtless a survival of the ancient
bel fires. I cannot do better than quote what he says : " In this parish
was an immemorial custom, continued within the memory of many
persons yet alive, of kindling fires on the tops of the surrounding hills
on St. Lawrence's Eve, the 9th of August. This night was called the
Kennel, or Kennelk Night ; and the tradition of the place is, that the
fires were intended as a memorial of the beacons kindled by the Saxons
to alarm their countrymen on the sudden approach of the Danes.
Perhaps the origin of the practice may be referred to a later period,
namely some of the irruptions of the Scots. But the tradition sufficiently
accounts for the name, which, I think, is clearly to be derived from

Settle from the West.

Kbnne, to descry. Another etymology might be offered from A.S. Cene,
acer, and Mlrd, ignis, the brisk fire, but I prefer the former, as more
appropriate." Had onr historian described the ceremonies which,
doubtless, attended the lighting of these summer fires, a more certain
clue to their origin or design would have been obtained than is possible
from the mere name or tradition.

In descending towards the Ribble bridge there is a delightful old
lane, in season filled with honeysuckle and roses, that goes off to the left
to Stackhouse and Stainforth, or you can follow the road down to the
bridge, as shown in the accompanying engraving, and take the field path

on the west side of the river, which leads into the same road near
Stackhouse. The latter is the shorter way from Settle. From this bridge
the huge, detached bulk of Penyghent forms a noble outline ; its whole
amplitude being finely emphasised by the contrast of its dark, grit-rock
summit with the white scars and green pastures in front, especially when
the evening light of a clear sky is thrown behind the mountain.

On gaining the road near Stackhouse one of the prettiest little
mansions which the visitor is likely to find in all .Craven is passed on the
left. For many generations it has been the home and possession of the
Brayshaw family, now represented by Thomas Brayshaw, Esq., Solicitor,
Settle. The family sprang from a place of the same name in the
township of Rathmell, about four miles south-west of Settle, but which
is now reduced to a cluster of farm-houses. They were located at
Stainforth in the same parish (Giggleswick) according to the Poll Tax
of a.d. 1379, and seem to have been the only family of that name then
living in Yorkshire. Two of the family appear as tenants of Lord
Clifford, at Giggleswick, in a.d. 1510, and it is very likely that these
were the same two who fought with the English as bowmen under the
banner of the " Shepherd Lord " at Flodden three years later.* For five
centuries at any rate the Brayshaws have been continuously resident in
this locality, and the parish registers shew that the family is connected
by marriage with nearly all the other old local families, such as the
Paleys, Carrs, Prestons, &c. One small portion of the churchyard at
Giggleswick, to the east of the porch, is almost entirely occupied as the
burial-place of the family. It is not very certain when their house here
was built, but as appears by a date over one of the doors it was enlarged
during the last century. Some of the inner walls are from two to three
feet thick. The snug mansion is most beautifully placed at an angle of
a sheltering wood, its green level lawn, smooth as velvet, rich, well-kept
flower beds, and cosy rustic arbour, make up a picture so truly bewitching
that Oliver Goldsmith might have been here when he wrote :

" blest retirement, friend to life's decline,
Retreat from care that never must be mine,
How blest is he who crowns, in shades like these,
A youth of labour with an age of ease ;
Who quits a world where strong temptations try,
And, since 'tis hard to combat, learns to fly !
And, all his prospects brightening to the last,
His heaven commences ere the world be past !"

Stackhouse was quite a blossoming and populous place as far back as
the Norman Conquest, for there is a tax upon three carucates of land

* Shortly after thiB date they appear as property owners at Malham. In 1660
Rowland Brayshaw held the watermill at Malham.

here (probably not less than 400 acres) in the Domesday Survey. These
afterwards became part of the possessions of Furness Abbey.

The Carre are a very old Northumbrian family, but resident at
Stackhouse many centuries ; their name first appearing here as lessees of
glebe and tithe in Giggleswick under Finchale Priory in the time of
Richard III. But before then a Ricardus de Carr et ux' occurs among
the taxpayers at Langcliffe in a.d. 1379. Also six local members of
this family are entered in the Clifford army-roll at Flodden, a.d. 1513.
It was James Carr who founded the Giggleswick Grammar School in
1512.* The family built the present Scale House at Stackhouse, which
bears their initials and the date, 1695. In Durham Cathedral there is a
monument to the memory of the Rev. John Carr, of Stackhouse, who
shortly before his death in 1883 was appointed Professor of Mathematics
in the newly-founded University of Durham. He was a Fellow of
Trinity College, Cambridge, and second wrangler in 1807.

From Stackhouse the road may be followed to Stainforth (lj mile)
for a view of the Falls of the Ribble, and the return to Settle or
Giggleswick made through Langcliffe or Locks. At Stackhouse a lane
diverges to the right, direct to the plank-bridge, (about 90 feet long),
over the Ribble to the little hamlet of Locks, where the river falls over
noisy dam-stones, and is turned off by a " lock " into an artificial lake
used for supplying the adjoining Langcliffe Mill. There is a very sweet
view down this stretch of water with an embowered hill in the
background. Ascending, a turn is made to the right, along the road
past Langcliffe and the old Hall, and then shortly by the lodge entrance
ito Mr. Christie's house, whence we come to a divergence of the road,
the lower one emerging near Settle Bridge, and the upper one at the
Market place in Settle.

* The Will of James Carr, proved 29 July, 1628. " To be bur. in the churche
-of Gigleswike of the holie and blissed Virgyn Sancte Alkild. To our Ladie gilde,
if it go forward, vjs. viijd. To our Ladie howse of Appilby xijd. Richard, my
flon, 5s. land at Settell. Thos. Car, my eon. Res. to son Richard, he exr., and
Dane Chr. Car, my son, supervisor. The title of my farm eh old e to Thos. my sone."

"July 20, 1549. Thomas Carr, of Staykus. Bur. church of Gygleswek. I
-will every prest beyn at my bereall and prayng for my souli, etc., have iiijd. a
peysh and theyr denar at Saylbanke wyffe's or in Sr Thomas chamer, wt ij or iij
honest men wt theym, yff they pleysh. Ranold Karr my unkyll son. I wyll yt
Chr. Thornton and Adam, my son, shall have my brother's chyldren and ye
farmhold at Langschawe. To Adam, my son, my lands in Hold Wenyngton,
Lawkland, and in Gygleswek and Settyll. Son Jamys Carr a house at Wold in
.Sutton and a tent, in Staykus. I wyll yt ye mazer and iiij sylver spones remayn
heyr (lomes) sty 11, and Adam not to mell wt theym, and yf Jamys wyll schyffan
arke and a almerye, then shall he have all other husbandrey stoyffe yt is heyre wt
Arke and almery. Res. wife Kath. and son Adam." (From a copy of the original
in possession of Mr. Wm. Carr. of Gomersall.) Vide Pub. Surtees Soc. Vol. 79 p.
219- (1884).

100

CHAPTER IV.

Giggleswick Scabs.

" Thence to Giggleswick most sterile,
Hemm'd with rocks and shelves of peril." — " Drunlwn J}ar»aby"

Giggleswick Scars— The Tarn — Ancient Canoe — Staircase and Dangerous Caves —
Ebbing and Flowing Well — Its construction and action explained — A
laughable incident— An old custom— A legend of the Well — Miraculous,
appearance of a lake — Feizor -Its curious name— Clapham family — Splendid
echoes — Scar top — The Schoolboy's Tower.

HE modern Alpineer accustomed to dangle at the end of ropes,
over Swiss precipices would hardly be tempted to seek
adventure among the Giggleswick Scars, but to those who.
are fond of scrambling, these majestic slopes and beetling cliffs offer
some " prize bits " even to the skilful cragsman. They are moreover
beautifully adorned with flowers and ferns in great variety. Among the
Scar plants hereabout may be especially mentioned the rare Blood
Cranesbill ; the delicious Fragrant Orchis, one of the very few varieties,
of this remarkable genus that is really sweet-smelling ; the Helleborine
(E. latifolia) and Wood Bedstraw (Q. sylvestre.) Likewise the
Buckthorn ( R. cartiiarticus ) is not uncommon here. Although this,
interesting tree is a native of Britain, it is much more abundant, and of
larger growth, in Siberia and some parts of central and southern Europe
and north Africa, than with us. In the spring, when in flower, it does not.
make much of a show, but in autumn and winter, when profusely covered
with glossy black berries, it is a very pretty sight.

The pleasant road from Giggleswick or Settle passes Catteral Hall
(W. Hartley, Esq.), and a little beyond, where a road to Giggleswick
branches down to the left, was the southern boundary of an ancient lake,
known in recent times as Giggleswick Tarn, possibly a relic of the Great
Ice Age. It was drained in 1837, and is now good fertile pasture. Its.
former shore line may be readily traced northward to a short distance
past the Ebbing and Flowing Well, where before the present highway
was laid it was crossed by a ford, from the old road now existing a little-

101

below the Well. Its length was about three-quarters of a mile, and at
its widest part upwards of one hundred yards. In the middle was an
island called Gretna Green, bnt how this matrimonially-suggestive name
originated has never transpired. Normally the lake, which was supplied
by several streams, must have been ten or twelve feet deep in the middle,
and abounding in various fish. That fish was plentiful in the tarn at a
very remote period is evident from the discovery in June 1863, of a very
fine old British canoe (now in the Leeds Museum) dug up five feet below
the surface by some workmen, while draining near the present barn at
the south end. The boat, which had undoubtedly been used by the
primitive natives more than 2000 years ago for fishing purposes, is
hollowed out of the trunk of a single oak, and i

Gigglkswick Scabs.

in length, 1 foot 9 inches inside breadth, and 1 foot 2 inches inside
depth. On each side of the boat is a washboard 8 inches wide and held
by round plugs of wood, while a small round hole at the stem end of the
canoe had probably been used for steering with, though this was fonnd
plugged up with a conical piece of wood. Lying near it were two iron
crooks, each about 18 inches long, fastened together with a ring of iron,
and having the appearance of a rude anchor. Were there no other
evidence in the locality, the presence of this primitive fishing-boat would
be sufficient to establish proof of a settled early British community
here.

102

The overlooking western cliffs would afford to these ancient people
safe, convenient, and sheltered habitations. Their plan seems to have
been to construct rude huts of limestone at convenient angles of the
cliffs, which were then roofed over with turf and shielded with trees.
The caves in the Scars were also occupied. There are two caves high up
above the present road, known as Staircase and Dangerous Caves, which
have been so tenanted. The entrance to the former may be plainly seen
from the road, about a hundred yards before the Ebbing and Flowing
Well is reached, and it may be ascended from the wall on the right
opposite three thorn trees. The mouth of the cave is somewhat
triangular in shape, about three feet wide and six high, and forms a
straight fissure about sixty feet in depth, up a series of natural steps,
covered in places with a slippery encrustation, rather difficult to mount.
The narrow grotto in the middle of the cavern goes up to a height of
thirty feet, and here there is a clear, shallow spring in the limestone
about two yards across. At the entrance to the cave there is a round
natural cavity in the wall not unlike a piscina or holy water-basin.
The grotto must have been rather small and wet for a regular abode,
and in early neolithic times it was very probably a bear den. Dangerous
Cave is some little distance higher up, and bad to get to. It forms a
winding passage which opens into a great "hall," containing many
curious petrifactions, but the descent into it is steep, and as its name
implies, not without danger.

Coming now to the Ebbing and Flowing Well, which is close to the
Clapham road side, about 1 J miles from Settle, the visitor will be curious
to witness the effects of this famous and unique spring. Although it
has been a familiar object of wonder to unnumbered generations of the
inhabitants of this district, no attempt to explain the cause of its sudden
rise and fall was made until about sixty years ago, when the late
Mr. Thomas Hargreaves, of Settle, propounded a satisfactory theory,
which has been since generally accepted. No one seems to have guessed
before how it occurred. Two-and-a-half centuries ago old Dick
Braithwaite, or " Drunken Barnaby," came this way, and he tells us,

" Neither know the learned that travel
What procures it, salt or gravel."

These lines containing a suggestion of some mysterious connection with
the distant tides. Dr. Watts, science master at Giggleswick School,,
some years ago constructed an ingenious model of the Well, showing the
supposed method of its working, and a similar but " single-siphon ""
contrivance has also been made by Mr. Timothy Green, horticulturist,
of Settle. These indicate that in the hill behind the well there is a

103

large upper cavity (a) as shewn in the annexed diagram, connected with
a lower and smaller one (c) bj several inclined channels (f.g). The
centre channel (b) is curved in the manner of a siphon towards the lower
basin (c), and from the latter a second and larger siphon (d) runs
downwards to the well (k). In
ordinary weather when there is a
medium supply of rain the water
gradually fills the lower basin, and
when it has reached the summit of
the lower siphon, the latter being of
larger dimensions than the upper one,
quickly draws off the water before
the narrower upper channel has time
to re-fill the basin. In flood all the
channels and basins are kept con-
tinuously full and so the "ebb and
flow " does not take place, and
similarly in dry weather a long
channel, supposed to run beneath the basins, carries off the water evenly to
the well. It looks as if the continuous passage of water along the several
cavities would have in time materially disturbed this phenomenal flow
by the decomposition of the limestone. Such may to some extent be the
case, but it is evident, if these theories be correct, that their relative
dimensions remain unaltered. When the water begins to ebb there may
occasionally be observed what is locally called the " silver cord," a thin
silvery line like a wisp of straw stretching across the well below the
gratings. It lasts but for u moment, suddenly breaking in the middle
and disappearing at each end. Although it is in reality only a slender
current of air caused bv the rapid and even descent of the water, yet it is
considered a portent of good lnck to those who witness this additional
phenomenon. In spite of very many visits that I have made to this well,
only once have I baen favoured with a sight of the " silver cord." It was a
summer noon, and there had been no rain for about thirty hours
previous, when a heavy shower had fallen in the early morning preceding
the visit. The water at noon rose 8 inches in 4 minutes, and would
have registered double that quantity in the time had the trough been
deep enough, whereas it rushed over the sides into the road, and then
rapidly sank to the level of the lower boles, the time taken from the
trough edge to this point being 1^ minutes. The well was then watched
for over an hour without any indication of a rise. Sometimes, however,
the water will ebb and flow a few inches three times in five minutes.
There seems no proper accounting for these remarkable variations, which
do not appear to be regulated by the state of the weather.

104

A good story is related of a South country gentleman unacquainted
with the erratic movements of this singular spring, who some few years
ago chanced to ride this way from Kendal upon a valuable horse. The
dav being hot he pulled up his horse at the well, which at that moment
was full. Having for a brief space his attention diverted to some
other object, a sudden movement of the horse caused him to look down,
when to his great astonishment, and no less alarm, he found that the
horse had literally " drunk the well dry." Believing that some calamity
might befall the animal with such a large accession of the cold element
upon its heated stomach, he at once dismounted and cautiously led the
horse by its bridle into town. Here he waited upon a well-known Vet.,
to whom the circumstances were minutely explained. The surgeon
perceiving at once the cause of the gentleman's discomfiture, confidently
prescribed some harmless remedy, drew a double fee, on the strength of
his assurances, and heard shortly afterwards that the horse had speedily
recovered !

A very old custom belonging to this well is one which appertains to
Easter Sunday, when troops of children visit it and make "Spanish-
juice " with its ice-cold waters, carrying off the black decoction in bottles
— a relic no doubt of some forgotten mode of ancient well-worship. As
previously observed, it is certain that in far back unscientific ages such
a spot would be looked upon with superstitious awe, and the mysterious
movements of the waters attributed to some supernatural power. Quaint
old Drayton in his Polyolbton, published in 1612, tells us in one of his
rhymes of a tradition that obtained in his day regarding the cause of
this singular phenomenon. He says that once on a time there was a
beautiful but shy nymph who dwelled

— in the mountains high
of Craven, whose blue heads for caps put on the sky,

and that one fine day, happening to stray further from her home than
was her wont, she was espied by a dreadful old satyr, who forthwith gave
her chase, and away they both went over Giggieswick Scars, until the
fair creature became so terribly alarmed and faint, and growing
" wondrous scant of breath " by the hot and unexpected pursuit, she
prayed the gods to turn her into a spring, and this they did to her
intense relief, just as the wicked satyr was about to seize her " flowing
silver hair." He thus got the " cold shoulder " most smartly for his
pains, and perished, let us hope, with the gods' disfavour, while she-
sweet thing ! gained immortality, for it is believed the delicious water's
ebb and flow is the visible panting of the sylph's heart !

Was it a later thank-offering of this fair enchantress that caused the
miraculous appearance of a small lake on the hill above, about a mile

105

from the well ? For as if by magic there suddenly arose in the summer
or autumn of 1791 a sheet of water on what had always before been
regarded as dry and firm ground. No special observation had previously
been made of the site, and it is not known that any collection of hidden
springs was the cause of its sudden appearance. The ground near it is
remarkably dry, and surrounded on all sides with limestone rock. Some
two or three years after its discovery the pool was measured after a
drought of two months and found to be 250 feet in circumference, and
from 7^ feet to 9 feet 5 inches in depth. It was for a long time useful
in furnishing water to a large number of cattle, but has now, like the
nymph of the well, ebbed from sight.

Ascending Buckhaw Brow past the Well, in a few minutes you reach
the highest point (815 feet) of the main high road between the eastern
and western seas, and on the right of the road a small cave is passed
in the scar. Here you may take a road to the right which goes by
Brunton House to Feizor, whence it is a nice walk of about two miles
over the scars to Stainforth or Stackhouse. Feizor is a retired little
hamlet consisting of a few scattered and picturesque houses, in one of
which the late Mr. William Byles, proprietor of the Bradford Observer,
resided some years before his death in June, 1891. Mr. Byles was a
well-known and familiar figure in this district, to which he was greatly
attached, and at Austwick as well as at Feizor, where he had his own
houses, he was a constant resident in the intervals of business, for nearly
forty years.

The first mention of Feizor which I have discovered appears in a
charter of Fountains Abbey, wherein John, the Abbot, receives the
homage of Robert de Feghers, or Feser, in a.d. 1229. This family,
however, held lands at Scosthrop, Calton, and Feizor, in the previous
century, but how, or the precise date when they were acquired does not
transpire. In Kirkby's " Inquest," (a.d. 1284), Johannes de Feyser is
declared to hold two carucates of land at Calton, and it seems, therefore,
not improbable that some member of this family had obtained either by
marriage, or by some other arrangement, this inheritance from the heirs
of Calton before the confirmation of the grant to John de Hamerton,
husband of Alice de Calton, in the 10th Richard I., a.d. 1200, as stated
by Whitaker.

The name of this place is curious, and rivals indeed in the variety
of its spelling as well as in the obscurity of its meaning, the much-
disputed etymon of Puteaco, or Pudsay. From various sources I have
gathered upwards of a score different renderings of the name, and all
contained in documents anterior to the 16th century, but the name,
I may observe, does not occur in Domesday. It may be useful to
recite them thus : — Feghers, Feserghe, Feysergh, Fesser, Fegsar,

106

Feyser, Fesar, Phesar, Phesyer, Feysarg, Feysar, Feazer, Pheiser, Fesor,
Feisser, Fesargh, Pheser, Fessor, Feisar, FeyBor, Feiser.

In a Compotus of Sallay Abbey for a.d. 1881, there is an entry of
43s. 4d. paid to Jo' Fesar, carpentario. I am inclined to think that the
root of the word is to be found in the Latin fagus, a beech-tree, although
there are no beeches there now ; the only native tree being the ash. The
local pronunciation is Feyzor, the ey being sounded as in hey.

The village of Feizor, which is partly in the parish of Clapham and
partly in that of Giggles wick, formerly belonged to the Yorke family,
who held the manor of Austwick, as elsewhere explained, in the time of
Queen Elizabeth. A branch of the family of Clapham, of Clapham, have
been seated there for upwards of two centuries, and which is now
represented by Thomas Richard Clapham, Esq., F.R.A.S., of Austwick
Hall, to which house the family removed in 1847.*

But we must leave this delightful little place, and resume our journey.
There are some capital echoes obtainable at several places on the routes
before named, at one of which a short distance from the track between
Stainforth and Stackhouse a scar rising above a low coppice will produce
a repetition of five or six echoes. I remember once hearing a lively
conversation at a Settle hotel between two travelled gentlemen, one of
whom was a foreigner, familiar evidently with many famous echo-making
spots on the continent. He amused his friend by remarking that at
some place in the Pyrenees there is a very wonderful echo, where as soon
as you have spoken aloud, say on the French side, you hear distinctly the
voice leap from rock to rock, from gorge to gorge, and from precipice to
precipice, but no sooner has it passed the frontier than the echo assumes a
Spanish accent ! This is certainly miraculous, and calls to mind an
" echo " I was once induced to try at the invitation of an Irishman at
the far-famed Lakes of Killarney. The man bade me call out, " Paddy,
how are you ?" and the answer quickly came from an opposite island,
" Still dry, your Honour," but whether it was Echo that produced this
strange response the reader is left to draw his own conclusions. Our
Craven echoes, surely, are more modest.

But to continue. If you are not afraid of the climb, the top of the Scar
can be reached from the Well by ascending the depression on this side of
the Staircase Cave, described on p. 102, and upon an elevated point of
the ferny pavement there is a lofty cairn of stones called the Schoolboys*
Tower, which with the aid of a glass can be descried from Pendle Hill
and other eminences a long distance off. It was formerly a custom at
the Giggleswick School for every new comer to climb up here and add a
stone to this huge cairn. And if every stone represents a scholar there
can be no doubt of the flourishing state of the old academy !

* For a Pedigree of this family, tee Turner's Yorkshire GeneaXogirt (1888), p. 189.

107

CHAPTER V.

Abound Smeabside.

An archaeological ramble — Ancient barrow with skeleton — Dead Man's Cave —
Remains of Celtic Walls— Smearside— Splendid prospect— Roman Watch-tower
— Roman Camp - Ice-travelled stones.

SHALL now indicate what is, from an archaeological standpoint
one of the most interesting short tours in the district. From
Settle Bridge you may take the field-path, or the before-
mentioned rustic lane to Stackhouse, and where the road divides just
beyond Mr. Priestley's pretty house you wind beneath the wood behind
Scale House to a gate and stile on the left. Here ascend the field
between two large trees, and at the top go over a stile, whence a path leads
up the field a good half-mile to a gate which opens into what our remote
Celtic ancestors would have reverentially called the " Field of the Dead,"'
for within this enclosure are traces and remains of human graves which
carry us back to the far dim ages of unwritten history. Following the
grassy cart-road a short distance you will see on the left a large circular
mound thrown up about 30 feet on the south side, and about 10 feet on
the north or higher side. There are other mounds of Bimilar and smaller
dimensions within the same area, some of which have been examined, but
others do not appear to have been disturbed. Many of the barrows*
or " raises," have at some time or other been carelessly dug into in the
hope of finding valuables, and as doubtless in most cases nothing was-
found but rude chests or coffins, containing bones, these were tossed aside
and no record of them deemed worthy of preservation. Numberless are
the instances of these despoiled barrows, cairns, &c, in Craven, an exact
account of which would have helped to clear up much that is obscure
regarding the manners and rites of our remote ancestors, of whom our
knowledge is still very imperfect. The largest of these existing raises-
has happily been described by a writer who signs himself " W. F." in
the Gentleman's Magazine for 1784 and 1785. Although his account fills-
several pages it is obviously defective in many particulars. We are told
that the circumference of the base of the mound is 210 feet, and that its-
height is 9 or 10 yards, and that the casing is composed of stones " so»

108

small that a soldier could carry them," while the inside is made up of
earth and stones, some of the latter being "much larger than the
external coating." In form it was circular, or rather orbicular, and the
diameter of the summit was 45 feet. The barrow he tells us was opened
many years ago, but some old people in the neighbourhood remember it
being entirely complete, and having a very flat top.

The barrow is locally known as the u Apronf ul of Stones," from a
tradition, similar to that appertaining to the " Four Stones " on Burn
Moor, that his Satanic Majesty in haste to complete the bridge bearing
his evil name near Eirkby Lonsdale, tripped and his apron-string broke
which let drop this immense heap. Upon examining it in its former
state the writer discovered several human bones scattered about the
rock and soil, among them the patellae of the knee, the vertebrae of
the spine, part of the jaw and several teeth. In the centre of the mound
was a cavity containing a chest composed of four upright stones and a
lid 6 feet 9 inches long and 3 feet broad. The chest was in partitions,
in the edges of which were a kind of hole with a rude mould. The
writer, under date, Settle, Nov. 23rd 1784, next informs us that " Not
many weeks ago the curiosity of some of the neighbourhood was excited
to investigate this stupendous work of art, and 'accordingly labourers
were hired, when upon searching a day (yet not half the work done) a
human skeleton was found, in due proportion, and in a fine state of
preservation, excepting the skull and one of the limbs, which were moved
out of their place by the workmen's tools. A small circular piece of
ivory, and the tusk of an unknown beast, supposed to be of the hog
genus, were also found ; but no ashes, urns, coins, or instruments were
discovered. There is a tradition (if mere tradition can be relied upon)
that this was raised over the body of some of the Danes slain in the
general massacre of that nation."

We are not told in what position the body or relics were found, what
was the size or character of the body, and what, if anything, was
discovered in the partitions of the chest, or how many partitions there
were, and their dimensions. The fact, however, that the body was
interred entire and not cremated, would point to a date subsequent to the
evacuation of the country by the Romans, but whether late Celtic, Saxon,
or Danish, there does not appear sufficient evidence upon which to
establish its identity. But the position of these tumuli certainly has the
appearance of belonging to the earlier race, when the native tribes were
driven to these hills by their more powerful invaders, and continued to
eke out a scant existence until united with the colony of foreign
immigrants at Settle and Giggleswick.*

* In other respects there is soqae resemblance to the so-called Giants' Gravel
(supposed Danish) under Penyghent

109

Having surveyed these remarkable stony mounds yon follow the
grassy cart-road to the gate, and turn left about thirty yards to another
gate, which opens into a field, whence at a distance of about 300 yards
an old lime-kiln will be observed at the foot of the scar. Ascend the

■car on the left of the kiln and climb the wall at the top. Under the
wall in this field is an opening in the limestone called Dead Man's
Gave. The entrance is large enough to admit the height of a man, and
the cavern is accessible for a length of about 80 yards. No discoveries
have been made in it within present recollection. From the wall you

110

turn left to a conspicuous gap, and proceed in a northerly direction some
distance, when the detached remains of two Ancient Walls, said to be
Celtic, appear on the open ground in front. The rocky top of Smearside
is seen directly opposite. These remarkable constructions are extremely
interesting, and, so far as I know, are unique in Yorkshire. They are of
such proportions and strength as to be altogether beyond the requirements
of a civilised age. Of the larger wall there remains a length of 66 feet,
and it is 5£ feet high, 4$ to 5 feet thick at the base, and from 3£ to 4 feet
at the top, running north and south upon natural and slightly raised
ground, at an altitude of 1000 feet above sea level. The stones
composing it are of various sizes, roughly hewn, and some are very large,
being at a yard or more from the ground a foot in thickness, from two
to four feet long, and one to one and a half wide. The stones are
admirably laid, usually wedge-fashion, the whole forming without
any kind of cement one compact and well-arranged mass. The other
wall is of like thickness, but neither so long nor so high, only about 15
yards remaining. Although apparently continuous with the larger
fragment it has evidently not been so, for the low ground separating the
< two walls has been denuded of stones for building with, which otherwise
would have afforded good foundations in situ. They appear to have
been parts of separate enclosures, but for what purpose intended the
remains left afford no clue. There are indications to the west of the
foundations of other walls, and it does not seem unlikely that they were
erected as a rampart or protection to a community of dwellings built by
the hardy natives after the Teutonic Conquest, fifteen centuries ago, in
fact of like age as the neighbouring tumuli above described.*

From the top of Smearside these singular constructions are well seen,
and as we are here we may as well make for the highest or east summit
of this fine large hill, which stands out conspicuously a little way to the
north of the Celtic walls. Arrived here (1192 feet) the view on all
hands is superb. Smearside from some points looks like a huge cone,
its northern face going down with a long, even surface into the valley,
as if it had been planed or smoothed by the passage of ice. This
characteristic probably gave the moumtain its name, and there is no
doubt that enormous masses of ice have passed over it, for scratchings
are found upon the rocks, and some of the erratics are as fantastically
stranded as you see them at Norber, while many lie deep buried in turf.
Upon the summit of Smearside are indications of an ancient watch-
tower, which may be as old as the Romans, as there are below
appearances of a large Roman encampment. The view embraces the
whole of the Ingleborough range, Chapel-le-Dale, with the distant

* See the account of the foundation walls, &c, on the summit of Ingleborough.

Ill

railway-line over Blea Moor, and the fine mural scars of Moughton
intervening. To the north-east the whole of Penyghent is seen towering
beyond the peaty lake-like hollow about Helwith Bridge, with the long,
unbroken outline of Fountain's Fell stretching away to the south to meet
other wildernesses of rock and moor. Settle appears southward under
its guardian crags, and fifteen miles further south again the massive
form of Pendle is reared upon the horizon, with Cold Weather Fell and
the yet more distant Lancashire moors. Coming westward we have the
peculiar elevation of Whelpstone Crag, and the pleasant vales of
Wenning and Lune fading away to the silver light upon the Irish Sea.
The prospect from this wild and lonesome height is, if only moderately
clear, well worth the effort necessary to enjoy it, and should the excursion
be accompanied with sunshine and refreshing breezes, a very pleasant
and profitable half hour may be passed.

A descent may be made in a south-easterly direction to the hollow
across which extend the earthworks of the supposed Roman Camp, above
alluded to. These comprise a number of rectangular fortifications, the
largest of which is about eighty yards long and fifty wide, divided into
three portions, and separated from two other smaller earthen ramparts
on the north by a long open space, which may have been the principia,
or division of the general's from the soldiers' camp. These works do
not conform to the usual plan of a standing or permanent camp, and if
of Roman origin may have been thrown up for temporary service only.
They would hardly hold more than a single cohort, or about 500 to 600
men. It is noteworthy that a Roman military way went near here by
way of Cross Streets to the south of Aust wick and Clapham to Lancaster,
and was doubtless connected with the branch road by Ebor Gate from
Malham to the Roman camp on High Hill above Settle. The road from
Bentham was, no doubt, similarly connected with the camp at Ingleton,
whence an excellent military highway traversed the wild mountainous
country by Ribblehead, and over Cam Fell to Bainbridge in Wensleydale.
The road from Lancaster went by Tatham Church, to the west of
Bentham, and thence to the great camp at Overborough, but a more
precise account of the various military and public ways laid down during
the Roman sway here I hope to give in connection with the description
of that important station, — the old Braboniac of the native Brythons,
if not of the Goidelic Druids — seized by Agricola, according to the
narrative of Tacitus, in the time of Vespasian.

In making for a conspicuous barn near some large trees you will
pass a large field on the left, where broken limestone crops out at one
corner, and hereabouts are several " calliard " erratics or ice-borne
boulders. One of these is finely grooved, the lines of striation trending
south-east or transversely to the planes of weathering. At the barn a

112

narrow lane leads into the main road a half-mile from Little Stainforth
for Settle or Giggleswtck.

The whole of this very interesting round can be done comfortably
in three to four hours, allowing for a good rest on the top of Smeareide,
and if a fine evening be privileged for the return journey, the setting
sun casting a rosy flush upon the white scars on the eastern side of the
valley makes an enchanting scene. The high rugged scars look
singularly grand beneath the warm light of the sun, while the old
walls in the distance glow for a little while like great chains of knotted
gold upon the greeu vests of the hills.

Bright amber clouds, high o'er the distant hills, %

Sail peacefully along the western sky ;
And music from the neighbouring moorland rills,

In silvery strains, by zephyrs borne, float by.

The golden day-streaka gently fade away ;

The shades and dews of eve as gently fall ;
The summer moon sheds down her mellow ray

Upon the scene, and throws a charm o'er all.

113

CHAPTER VI.

Langcliffe. Catterick Glen.

A trip to Catterick— Langcli fife Hall — The Dawsons — Memorials of Sir Isaac
Newton — Langcli ffe Village — Its former site — The Naked Woman Inn —
Win ski 11 — " Lang Tom," the poet — The open Moor— Catterick Force and
Glen— Lovely Scenery.

VERY delightful «trip is that to Catterick Force, in situation
and aspect, perhaps, the most romantic in Craven. There
are various ways of " dropping " into the ravine, but in
doing so you must be careful not to fall into the clutches of a swarthy,
unmentionable personage, who is said to haunt this retired glen !
The shortest route, however, is by Langcliffe and the Cat Steps, about
three miles from Settle. The road to Langcliife (1 mile) is direct,
passing the old Hall, which stands on the right of the road just before
entering the village. But it is not seen from the road, and its privacy
is secured by the high wall which conceals it.

The house was formerly the property of the Swale family, of Enfield,
near Long Preston, and was bought by the late Miss Dawson, of Settle,
in whose family it had been for nearly two centuries from the time of
the Commonwealth. This lady enlarged the house, and improved and
remodelled the grounds about the year 1865, and upon her decease the
property was bequeathed to her relative, Mr. W. Mosley Perfect, who
assumed the name of Dawson, and the hall has now for some years been
the residence of his sisters, the Misses Perfect. The first of the family
of Dawson who lived here was Christopher Dawson, who married a
daughter of Sir Thomas Craven, of Appletreewick, who died April 15th,
1682. He was the son of Kobert Craven, of Appletreewick, first-cousin
to Sir William Craven, who was once a poor lad at Burnsall, and afterwards
a draper's assistant, but rising to wealth and honour was in 1611 made
Lord Mayor of London. He was father of the celebrated William, Earl
of Craven, who married a sister of King Charles First. William Dawson,
who married in 1705 the heiress of the Pudsays of Bolton-by-Bolland, was
the son of the above Christopher Dawson, and a Major of the Militia
and J.P. for the West Riding. He was a man of high classical

114

attainments, and, it is averred, was one of the very few persons living at
that time who could comprehend Sir Isaac Newton's " Principia
Philosophae," an erudite and once much-talked-of work, which unfolds
various mathematical principles of philosophy, the chief novelty or
discovery being that of the principle of universal gravitation, as deduced
from the motion of the moon. This important book was published
in 1687.

The great philosopher is said to have been an occasional visitor of
Major Dawson at Langcliffe, who had an arbour purposely constructed
in the garden for him, wherein he is said to have passed many hours in
solitary meditation, and also not unfrequently in learned converse with
his friend over a mutual pipe. Before the re-arrangement of the gardens
and outbuildings there was a rookery and a small orchard at the north
side of the house, where the kitchen garden now stands, and two old
apple-trees yet remain. It is here where Newton's arbour stood, and the
two fruit trees are credited with having sprung from cuttings derived
from an old tree planted by the Major to commemorate the philosopher's
great discovery of the law of gravitation, from the well-known story of
his watching an apple fall while sitting alone in his home garden at
Woolsthorpe, in Lincolnshire. There is no memorial of Sir Isaac
preserved within the house. A portrait of the Major hangs in the hall,
which is also finely adorned with old black oak. Over the west or
original main entrance there is a shield of arms with initials and date,
1602. #

Langcliffe was part of the extensive possessions of Sallay Abbey,
and some time after the Dissolution, namely by Inquisition of the 1st
and 3rd Elizabeth, it was found to belong to Henry, son and heir of Sir
Arthur D'Arcy, Kt. The village in Norman times is said to have stood
a little to the north of its present site, in a field, now enclosed, called
Pesbers on the left of the lane going to Winskill. According to a
tradition very happily preserved in a Latin poem wTitten in 1690 by the
above Major Dawson, it was razed by the Scots during one of their
destructive incursions after Bannockburn. Langcliffe lay on the old
pack-horse routes out of Wharfedale and Malliam to Clapham and

* In the Carr chapel, situated at the south-east corner of Giggleswick Church,
are two hatchments bearing the arms of the Dawson and Pud say families.
Christopher Dawson, father of the famous Major, must himself have been a very
remarkable man, as the following curious epitaph in the chancel shews : " Both
parts of Christopher Dawson have returned whence they came, his soul upwards, his
body downward?. He was a pious, upright, tender-hearted, and generous man,
endowed with a liberal education and high mental culture, as well as legal skill.
Always opposed himself to quarrelling, he used to make friends out of enemies,
and voluntarily to reconcile wranglers. He died much lamented on the 5th of
April, in the 1695th year of the Christian Salvation, in the 46th year of his life."

115

Settle, and one of these, long disused, may be traced behind the church
and up beneath the scar on to the Stockdale bridle-road for Malham.
About forty years ago, after the passing of the Beer-licensing Act, there
was quite a rush for licenses in this district, and at that time there were
four or five inns, or rather beer-houses in the village. The oldest inn,
whose sign of the Naked Woman I have already explained on page 87,
was pulled down about thirty years ago, but long before then its place
as the principal inn was taken by another known as A Bird in the Hand,
which has also disappeared. The original stone effigy of the Naked
Womxn has, however, been preserved, and is built into the front of the
house on its site opposite the post-office. The figure bears a shield with
the initials and date LS 1660 MS, doubtless those of the Swainson
family ; a Lawrence Swainson being churchwarden for Langcliffe and
Rathmell in 1663, and again in 1689. There is also a brass of the date
1773 to one of the same name in Giggleswick church. One of the
oldest houses remaining here is that in which for very many years the
family of the distinguished Archdeacon Paley resided.

At one time Langcliffe partook of the reputation which Settle has
long held for the good quality of its leather. There were several tan-pits
close to the village, but any knowledge of the industry is now almost
forgotten. One of the last " characters " who worked thereat in the
early part of the present century was a well-known local Methodist
preacher, who went by the descriptive sobriquet of "White-lock
Tommy," in allusion to the venerable shade of his hair. Many a time
he might have been seen scraping hides, &c, to the hum of some
familiar tune, close to the village green, or when fine leading an open-air
service beneath the spreading plane-tree that graces its centre. On one
occasion " Tommy " had been preaching, and at the close of his sermon
was about to give out a hymn, when his "specs" accidentally fell.
Then he turned to the throng saying, " My specs hev fallen and I cannot
see," but the congregation undismayed by the incident left him to pick
up and adjust his glasses while they with one accord started a hymn for
themselves. " Tommy," it is said, had " cat-eyes " and could see as
well, or better, by dark than by daylight. Some strange tales are
related of his younger days, and it is said that whenever he went into
any of the neighbouring caves he required no light !

From Langcliffe you turn round by the vicarage and follow the lane
which leads into the fields direct to the Cat Steps. It is up-hill work,
but heeding the sage advice of the sly old rogue in the " Winter's Tale,"

" Jog on, jog on, the foot-path way,
And merrily hent the stile-a ;
A merry heart goes all the day,
Your ead tires in a mile-a."

116

Up the Cat Steps then you must go, a rather steep climb, but at the top
you may " rest and be thankful " for the lovely, wide view there is
behind. From the top you keep on a little and then bear to the left,
when the solitary farm-house at Winskill will be noticed. This was the
early home of another famous " Tommy," who was a " preacher " also,
yet he never mounted a pulpit, but delivered his sermons in retirement,
inspired by rocks and books, and the loveliness of Nature, animate and
inanimate, writ in his " native twang." He was a poet, and a poet, too,
who has had no small run of popularity. In 1867 was published his
first " Splinters struck off Winskill Rock," which rapidly went into a
second edition ; and a third edition, which included non-dialect poems
by his brother, Mr. H. L. Twisleton, appeared in 1876. " Lang Tom
fra 1 Winskill," as he used generally to subscribe himself (his father being
the well-known Craven giant), was an ardent temperance advocate, fond
of the quiet of Nature, and never married. The two last idiosyncrasies
perhaps explain one another. Tom, however, like the properly
discriminating minstrel that he is, never tired of singing the charms and
true poetical qualities of bucolic milkmaids, or of the sprightly, buxom,
genuine-hearted Craven lasses (none of your dawdling, awfully effective
man- wheedling machines), although strangely enough he always stopped
short at the courting,— of the muse and the maid ! He tells us in one
of his homely ditties : —

" I envy not the boisterous joys
Of them who love to raise a noise

Whar drunkards sip their glass ;
But when nay day's wark I hev done,
I love to ramble wi' my gun,

Or cooart some bonnv lass."

But Tom has left this old mountain nest, and has been living now.
I believe, some time at the pretty village of Burnsall, in Wharfedale.

But it is time we left Winskill and got up to the head of the glen.
Into this expansive region of old sea-crag and morass you had better
come well shod, and provided against the wonders of meteorology, for if
it be wet above-board you will, in plain Yorkshire, " catch it." Great
wild open moors sweep around you for miles, and far over them the
moor-birds, mayhap, are winging lazily, looking in the distance hardly
larger than butterflies. Away there, too, where the sun goes down on
summer nights looms the monster Ingleborough ; while northwards,
breaking the sluggishness of the peaty plain, towers the majestic front of
Penyghent ! But, indeed, you cannot go far in Craven without meeting
a mountain.

Deep down on your left is the partly wooded defile in which runs the
turbulent beck that riots among the wild rocks and cliffs of Catterick.

117

Follow the glen up along the top until there are signs of it* disappearance
among the tracts of heather. A little below this point you will come to
the highest and grandest of the waterfalls, which, after a flood, makes a
sublime sight, hardly to be matched in Yorkshire, and that is saying a
great deal. The water comes down a lofty ravine, thickly clothed with
trees and flowering shrubs, (amongst the latter the giant rose-bay, the
finest of the willow-herbs, gives an effective colour), and falls in two
magnificent leaps into a shadowy pool below, running then onward
among immense boulders to fall again and again in lesser but still
beautiful cascades. It will be better to cross to the opposite or north
side of the stream and follow it down a good mile, there being a rough
track to the fields, whence the path improves into the lane for Stainforth,
whence to Settle it is 2j miles by the plain road.

If after this varied and invigorating half-day's walk you have no
appetite it will not, I trow, be the fault of the air or the scenery.
Society, said one who knew, is composed of two great classes —those
who have more appetite than dinner, and those who have more dinner
than appetite. May you represent both !

At Settle yon will get excellent accommodation. There is the
Ashfttld, one of the largest and best houses in the dale country, the
spacious and comfortable Lion,— the old coach ing-house— and many
other inns, temperance hotels and private lodgings where every
comfort and attention may be relied on by those contemplating a longer
or shorter sojourn at this pleasant old town under the scars.

118

CHAPTER VII.

All about the Victoria Cave.

Up in the hills again — " Sauiso&'s Toe " — The Scars and their primitive inhabitants
All about the Victoria Cave — Its treasures and what they tell — Its curious
discovery and history of the exploration — Night incident — A hyaena den —
Pre -glacial remains — Sketch of mammoth by pre-glacial man — Age of deposits
— Other local caves and discoveries — Attermire, not the outer water — Its
meaning explained — Historic deductions — Old lake — Rare plants—The cave
and its remains — Occupation of caves during recent war-panics — Roman Camp
at High Hill — Scaleber Force.

OW for a grand out ! Mountain paths, mountain breezes,
mountain waterfalls, mountain caves, — every thing, in fact,
that combines to make exercise interesting, profitable, and

recreative. To-day we shall make for the uplands again, starting

betimes,

When from the opening chambers of the east
The morning springs, in thousand liveries drest.

The early sky may augur a cloudless day, and then the fiery orb
spreading his heat over the shelterless scars will make a Tartar of your
skin ! And perchance you are a lady, — yes, wearing for the nonce a face
as red as the proverbial hep, yet what matters this ruddy Arabian tan so
long as you do not wholly lose the tender cuticle, and are recognisable ?
We did once hear of a Craven young lady who, somewhat sun-browned,
happened to ask a well-known Settle wag, with respect to the best
remedy for a " tickling feeling about the cheeks and mouth," consequent,
she affirmed, on exposure to the summer rays. But the fellow looked
suspicious, and smiling complacently, whispered into her ear, Make him
get shaved more often ! That was really too ridiculous, and especially so
when the pretty creature innocently looked up and asked him how he
knew. Why, of course, he didn't know ; it was simply a lawyer-like
way of getting at the truth. Yet, after all,

What is beautv ? Not the show
Of stately limbs and features ! No,—
'Tis the stainless soul within
That outshine* the fairest skin !

119

Away then you go, heedless of the pungent darts, through old
Langcliffe again, climbing the Capon Hall, or Malham Tarn road, a
good mile until the level is reached, nearly a mile due south of the
Winskill farm-house, mentioned in the last chapter. There is but a short
distance from our road, on the way to this lonely mountain abode, a
conspicuous boulder, locally known as Samson's Toe. It is a dark,
massive piece of gritstone left stranded by ice thousands of years ago,
when the great frozen mass, deflected from Ribblesdaie, moved slowly
onward from the north-west to the south-east, precisely in the direction
of the longer lie of the rock. You have a good view from it, looking
this way, up the old Silurian depression extending by Swarth Moor,
between the two divisions of the North Craven Fault. This stone is
somewhat oval in shape and measures 10 feet by 6 feet. It is much
weathered and grooved, and owing to this circumstance a couple of large
" corns," too heavy to lift, have dropped from the " Toe " on to the
ground beside it.

You are now in front of a range of magnificent limestone scars,
which forms one of the escarpments of the great Craven Fault. A track
runs south close to the foot of the scars, and by following, this about
half-a-mile you arrive at the famous Victoria Cave, the entrance to which
is up a steep slope of clay and limestone debris, partly natural, and partly
artificial caused by excavations. This cave, with three or four others in
its vicinity, is in the township of Langcliffe, while Brent Scar and
Attermire Cave, a little to the south, are in the township of Settle. The
Victoria Cave must have existed a hundred thousand years at least, and
over a goodly portion of that period is proved to have been an abode of
life and activity, yet its presence (concealed for centuries) in latter times
was only made known some fifty-five years ago. The discovery was made
by Mr. Joseph Jackson, of Settle, in the year (not the day as is often
stated) of Her Majesty's Coronation, whence the name of the cave.

Its discovery was quite accidental. Mr. Jackson was out walking with
his dog, when the animal was seen to disappear through a small opening
in the rock, and then beginning to bark, it sounded as if there was a
large hollow behind. In the course of a minute or two the animal emerged
from another hole. Curiosity being aroused, part of the debris was
removed for some distance along the face of the cliff, and unmistakable
evidence of what looked like an extensive cavern was revealed. The dog
seemed equally interested with his master, and on all subsequent visits
was his constant companion. All praise then to the dog, for if it had not
been prompted by such active powers of investigation, in the prosecution
of scientific research ! this, in biological interest, one of the most
remarkable discoveries of our time, would possibly have been unknown
still ! " The entrance," says Mr. Jackson, " was nearly filled up with

120

rubbish and overgrown with nettles. After removing these obstructions,
I was obliged to lie down at full length to get in. The first appearance
that struck me on entering was the large quantity of clay and earth,
which seemed as if washed in from without, and presented to the view
round pieces like balls of different sizes. The roof of the cave was
beautifully hung with stalactites in various forms, and as white as snow.*
Mr. Jackson did not proclaim the discovery for some little time, but
continued his visits, and frequently spent whole nights in the cave. On
one occasion, accompanied by his dog, he had blown out his light, and was
composing himself for a few hours' rest, when he was suddenly aroused
by the approach of some animal close to where he lay. At once striking

Entrance to the Victoria Cave.

a light his dog bounded up, and they were just in time to discover the
brush of a fox, — poor renard having been evidently drawn upon a
nocturnal visit to the shrine of his long departed ancestors !

Many of the relics, including coins, pottery, bone and bronze
implements and ornaments, found in the cave by the late discoverer are
now in the possession of liis daughter. Miss Jackson, of Settle. The
bulk, however, are carefully preserved in the Giggleswick Museum,
described on page 80. Some are also in the British Museum. The coins
* Sec " Culleolanen Antiqua," Vol. 1, No. 5, pp. 67-70.

121

found are of silver and copper and mostly of the three Constantines,
but it is the received opinion that they are not Roman, but rude
imitations of current Roman coins made by the British hordes who were
partly beholden to, but unwilling to submit to the rule of the
conquerors.

The cave, which is situate 1 450 feet above the sea, has undoubtedly
been the channel of a pretty large current of water which had its outlet
at a lower level than the present mouth : the relative elevation of the
valley and the cave having, of course, become modified in the lapse of
time. The position of the cave in the high scar is shewn in the centre
of our illustration.

The existing entrance is about 100 feet wide, and 32 feet high.
There are three main chambers accessible by different galleries or
passages, and one of them, on the left had originally a very deep pool of
water, which was cleared out during the excavations, and yielded many
relics. This gallery goes on some forty to fifty yards and then narrowing
branches again. As the cave some distance in is usually very wet and
dirty, explorers should be provided accordingly. Upon a vertical
examination of the contents of the principal opening it was discovered
that the stratified deposits extend downwards to a great depth, and in
which remains, accumulating from pre-glacial to historic times, were
found. This represents a period so vast that civilisation seems but a
thing of yesterday in comparison with the time when this cave first
began to gather in its wonderful and varied stores, the invisible hand of
Time at last locking up its grim portals for remote future revelation !
The range of scars has a westerly aspect, and at the earliest period stood
much nearer the edge of the valley than now, and consequently the
entrance to the cave must have been in a different and more prominent
position. Before the cave was opened out in 1870, under the auspices of
the British Association, the entrance was by a crevice on the left of the
present opening, but at a much higher level. The thick, long slope of
screes which choked up the mouth of the cave, seems to have been
deposited wholly by the weathering back of the cliff since the last Ice
Age. It is composed of angular fragments of limestone, detached from
the cliff, and concealing beneath it boulders of Silurian slate and grit,
as well as of carboniferous limestone and grit, many of which display
the usual characteristics of friction by ice. These do not occur among
the broken fragments, but under them, and were therefore left where
they are now found when the glaciers retreated. The ice, it is evident,
completely filled this upland valley, being in fact an arm or divergence
of the mighty mass which ploughed Ribblesdale, and its direction can be
clearly traced for many miles by the line of boulders that yet remain
more or less plentifully on its track. The position of some of the larger

122

stones indicate their morainic character, and prove that the scars have
weathered back since the last ice-flow. Many geologists have imagined
that these boulders, or a portion of them, have fallen over the cliff from
above, but this is not probable, for (unlike the tumbled erratics at Norber)
there are no such boulders up there now, nor within a good half-mile of
the edge, at any rate, nor are there any important deposits of glacial drift.

The lowest deposits in the cave consist of two beds of a limey cave-
loam of a reddish-grey colour, separated by a varying thickness of
laminated clay, and which extends some five and twenty yards in from
the entrance. It is a very fine unctuous sediment, laid in thin even
layers, that may almost be separated like the leaves of a book, and
has been evidently formed by a long-continued and gentle flow of water,
containing sand, mud, and ground matter in suspension, derived from a
pool or stream either in contact with, or proximity to a glacier. This
peculiar substance has undergone examination for organisms at the
practised hands of the Rev. W. H. Crosskey, who affirms that it is
identical in all respects (except that it contains no foraminifera) with
the laminated glacial clays of the west of Scotland.

There were bones of the mammoth, hippopotamus, and cave-hyaena,
found in the lowest bed, which indicate a kind of climate totally different
from that which prevailed when the second or uppermost bed of cave-
earth was deposited. Mixed with the latter were bones of an arctic or
inter-arctic class of animals, including the reindeer, bear, bison, fox,
arctic hare, &c. What an enormous distance of time these two epochs
reveal ! The first calling up a picture very similar to that which we may
see in the wildernesses of Brazil and Africa at the present day, saving
that many of the animals infesting the jungles and tepid waters of the
Craven Highlands are now wholly extinct. Then the upper
mammaliferous layer tells of an altered state of things,— of a climate
graduating from a tropical or sub-tropical to an arctic character.*

In the pre-glacial bed was found a single bone which Professor Busk
at first identified as pirt of a human fibula. He has, however, since
come to the conclusion, along with other eminent biologists, that the

* I am aware that Prof. Boyd Dawkins contests these views of the remains
found denoting any remarkable change of climate (see Jourl. Anthr. hist.. Nov.,
1877). But it is hardly credible that the bones of tropical animals can have been^
washed in by ice-flows from any great distance. It is, however, noteworthy that
the cave variety of the spotted hyama (hyaena spclcea') seems to have lingered on
until a comparatively mild, if not cold, period set in, for bones of the later fauna,
cracked and gnawed by this animal, were found in great abundance, and which
animals had evidently been dragged in by the hyrenas and killed by them for food.
Seasonal migrations may account for the presence of son e of the animal remains.
All our evidence, however, points to the animals I have named as pre-glacial, and
such as the mammoth as the survivors of a period long anterior to the Ice Age.

123

bone in question may be that of one of the lower animals. Indeed, at
the Belfast meeting of the British Association in 1878, Professor Boyd
Dawkins playfully remarked that the fibula had become a fabula % and
that Yorkshiremen would have to cede the idea of tracing their pedigree
back to that pre-glacial marrow-bone !

The absence of implements in the lowest beds of the cave is counter
testimony to its occupation by man in pre-glacial times. While
palaeolithic implements are found in various parts of England, these
seldom occur off the chalk districts, where flint abounds. There would
seem to have been no traffic in flint at that era, each community looking
after itself, and having no more thought or care for its neighbours than
the wild beasts upon which they preyed. In such districts where there
was no flint, stone would be the common article of service, but these
districts, which included the whole of the north-west of England, were
sparsely peopled, and over wide areas not inhabited at all. For ages the
Victoria Cave, and other caves I shall speak of, were probably only wild
beasts' lairs. It would, indeed, have been a grand discovery had we been
able to establish beyond doubt man's existence in this district before the
great Ice Age. His remains have been turned up in some places, but
chiefly in fissures and caverns on the continent. A few skulls have been
unearthed in German and Swiss caves, and it is interesting to ascertain
from these rare specimens that our palaeolithic ancestors were as nearly
allied as could be in feature and in habit to the " intelligent gorilla " of
present times. His forehead is described as " villainously low and
retreating," and more ape-like than the most brutish of medern savages.
His jaws were ponderous, and armed with huge canine teeth, and his-
limbs and back far hairier than is the case now. His body, indeed, was
only partially covered with the skins of various animals, and during the
summer heat these were discarded entirely. He followed no species
of agriculture and was consolidated into no form of nation or tribe,
carried on no wars, knew nothing of intellectual or social supremacy, but
lived wholly in caves and hollow trees, defending himself and attacking
his prey with weapons of stone, wood, bone, or rudely chipped flint.

But whatever his outw r ard aspects and habits may have been, there was
that divine and secret impulse within him which animated an eagerness
for improvement, awoke the consciousness of his abject condition, begot in
him a desire for clothing and adornment, and stirred up his sense of the
beautiful, and consternation at the grand, in Nature. Long had he been
accustomed to look upon the sun and the other heavenly bodies with an
inexplicable awe, but bye and bye that feeling rose into piety, and daily
then did he bend the knee of supplication, and worship in his own
strange way the mysterious Giver of life and light ! Yet forsooth,
miserable enough must have been "the real condition of the aboriginal

124

savage, who," writes the clothes philosopher, "glaring fiercely from under
his fleece of hair, which with the beard, reached down to his loins, and
hung about him like a matted cloak, the rest of his body sheeted in its
thick natural felt." Still, as I have said, we find these barbarous people
unquestionably instinct with ideas of comeliness and beauty, decorating
themselves in diverse fashions, and variously exercising their skill as
craftsmen in art. In this respect the marvellous relics obtained thirty
years ago from the famous rock shelter of Perigorde, in La Madeleine,
France, are perhaps the most notable hitherto discovered.* They
•comprise outline sketches of several animals drawn upon tusks and pieces
of ivory, and with no inconsiderable artistic skill. The most remarkable,
however, is the figure of a mammoth engraved upon a fragment of its
own tusk, and shewing by the representation of its long, shaggy mane,
and the peculiar, long, recurved tusk, — characteristics which do not now
belong to any living elephant, — that the original was familiar to the eye
of the artist. As this is the only contemporary portrait of that extinct
•creature now in existence, and is the undoubted production of a
palaeolithic subject, who lived probably not less than 40,000 years ago,
it is, perhaps, the greatest pictorial curiosity in the world. Imprints of
it appear in several French and English works. About fifty years ago,
I may add, a similarly engraved antler was found in the well-known
Kent's Hole, near Torquay Thus, if any proof were wanted, these
discoveries clearly shew that in pleistocene times England was united to
the continent, and that the mammoth and other extinct land mammalia
once browsed in the fertile plains and vast forests of the German Ocean.
As the glacial epoch is computed to have subsided in this country
25-30,000 years ago, some idea of the lapse of time can be gathered
between these and the upper deposits in the Victoria cave. Beneath six
feet of roughly cemented fragments of limestone, fastened by the trickling
of water among the stones, being the actual debris of the cave, were
found remains vastly different from the preceding. These included
relics of the presence of man, amongst them a curious fish-harpoon, four
inches in length, having two barbs on each side, and of a type which has
not elsewhere been found. There was also a sculptured perfect bone-bead,
and some rude flint flakes, and along with these bones of the brown bear,
«tag, horse, dog, and Celtic shorthorn .t All these belong to the neolithic

* A large piece of brecciated floor, along with casts of human skulls and bones,
from the Perigorde cave may be seen in the Leeds Public Museum. The breccia
consists of a mass of calcareous sinter containing many flint knives, arrow-points,
implements and spent charcoal, mingled with bones and teeth of various wild
animals, birds, fishes, &c. It is an excellently-got and most interesting fragment.

f Subsequently a stone adze of a variety of greenstone was found which bears
a striking resemblance to the stone adzes used by the South Sea Islanders, and

125

period, and represent a time when a rude commerce was established,
agriculture was dominant, and some progress had been made in the arts.
It may have been 4 — 5000 years ago, certainly not less. In the
uppermost bed, only two feet from the surface, an old floor was come
upon, where were traces of charcoal fires, also burnt bones of domestic
animals, and of the smaller rodentia and carnivore, broken pottery,
Roman-Celtic coins, a Roman key, bone pins, amber and glass beads,
silver and gold-plated bronze brooches, finger-rings, and other ornaments
of great beauty, all proving the cave to have been a comparatively recent
habitation. In fact the date of its evacuation can be fixed pretty
accurately, say, 15 centuries ago, for amongst the coins found were some
rude imitations of bronze money coined about a.d. 400. Others date
from the reign of Trajan, a.d. 98, to that of Constans, a.d. 359, and
the presence of these seem to indicate that the cave was occupied by
some influential British families, or unconquered bands, during the
Roman possession of Britain.

Having now, I think, told everything about this truly royal wonder,
let us move onward, still keeping the range of scars on our left. But
before proceeding I should mention a second and smaller bone-cave in
King's Scar, which is situated 500 yards in a direction N. 15° W. from
the Victoria Cave. This hole was investigated by the Exploration
Committee at the same time (in 1871), and amongst the remains found
were bones of the Celtic shorthorn, stag, horse, and goat ; also proof of
human occupation was discovered in the shape of a rude flint scraper
and a whetstone. Some time afterwards Prof. R. H. Tiddeman, of
H.M. Geological Survey, dug up a human femur, while exploring the
cave in company with Mr. John Birkbeck, junr., the secretary of the
committee. These remains are shewn to be neolithic, or of like age as those
found in the Victoria Cave. Again, at the top of King's Scar, about
150 yards from the Victoria Cave, there are indications of another
cavern, and near a collection of stones called the Watch Tower. Perhaps
this may have been a sentry or spy-keep for the inhabitants of the caves
during the Roman occupation.

Keeping alongside the wall which runs down between the cliffs, with
the rifle butts some distance on the right, you have then the Attermire
range before you, a majestic pile or assemblage of fantastically formed
summits, looking like the shattered bastions of some giant's citadel.

Attermire has always been interpreted into the outer or utter lake,
or even sometimes into otter-mwe, or lake, the latter portion of the name
having reference to the post-glacial tarn or water that once existed here

especially in Tahiti. Vide W. Boyd Dawkins "Cave Hunting" (1874). p. 114.
It was presented to the Museum of the Philosophical Society at Leeds by Mr.
Jackson.

126

at the foot of these bold projecting crags. Bat the prefix otter was, I
suspect, given to the place by the first Celtic invaders who held the
tarn, then no doubt abounding with fish, exactly like the tarn under
Giggleswick Scars, on the now dry site of which was unearthed the early
British canoe, already mentioned. The origin of the word is to be
found, I think, in the Goidelic ate or ait, a place, possession, or
settlement. Such would appear to have been the origin of Atterley,
in the parish of Much Wenlock, Shropshire ; also Attercliffe, which is a
particularly ancient settlement, and eight centuries ago, at the great
survey after the Norman Conquest, it was constituted the chief vill of
the manor of Sheffield. In Domesday it is written Ateclive, and, like
Attermire, is situated in the shelter of a lofty precipice, which overhangs
the waters of the Don.

The time-worn crevices and ledges of the Attermire rocks are
adorned with many choice plants and ferns ; amongst the latter the rare
Holly Fern (A. lonchitis) has been known to flourish here for a long
period. It is now unfortunately one of the scarcest ferns in England,
but formerly it was to be found pretty generally distributed among the
Craven scars. The pretty London Pride (S. umbrosa), grows also wild
not so far away from here, in one of the very few places in Britain where
it is truly indigenous.*

Up on a ledge of rock, rather bad of access, is the opening to
Attermire Cave, another of those pre-historic habitations just described.
It has been known locally for ages, yet nothing has been found in it
within recent times but a single adult skeleton, a carved bead, and some
coins. It was once very rich in stalactites, but these have almost all
disappeared. The cave may be entered and explored for a considerable
distance, but as it is often very wet and dirty, old garments should be
donned for the purpose. In caverns that wind and branch a good deal like
this one it is well, in order to ensure a safe and expeditious return, to play
the game of paper-chase, that is scatter torn-up paper as you go along.
Many adventurous cave-hunters have had some unpleasant experiences
from the neglect of such a useful precaution. When you have got about
twenty yards in, the height of the cave suddenly diminishes from about
forty to barely two feet, which necessitates creeping for another twenty
yards or so. You then enter a large, and what was within living
recollection one of the most superbly decorated grottoes in the whole
district. This cavity is about fifty feet high, and before the depredations
began, contained many handsome stalagmites, like the pillars of some

* In Ireland, on the famous coach-drive between Glengariffe and Killarney, I
have observed this plant growing wild on the rocks near the summit of the road
(1400 feet), and it may be found also on several mountains in the same beautiful
neighbourhood.

127

Gothic hall, fluted and ornamented with the most exquisite patterns ;
massive fanciful petrifactions like great lamps or chandeliers were
suspended from the roof, and the floor and sides were similarly adorned
with a variety of curious and beautiful figures. At one end of the cave
a somewhat steep descent is made, requiring caution, as a sudden bend
or lowering of the roof may remind you unpleasantly of its presence.
Alternations of creeping aud threading your way erect will keep you
fully employed for a couple of hours at any rate, affording plenty of
diversion in an examination of the many weird and peculiar features of
the place. Do not, however, neglect to be well provided with lights.

Attermire, as well as some other caves in the district, was partly
cleared for occupation at the time of the Rebellion of 1745 as well as
during the war panics at the end of last century ; indeed, on several
occasions they were temporarily furnished and occupied by old folks and
nervous ladies " unable to run," who used to sew and knit within these
mountain retreats without much fear of discovery. An amusing relic of
this period, in the shape of an old broken knitting-needle, was found in
Attermire many years ago.

Between the cliffs and the targets you now cross the open land straight
ahead about half-a-mile into the Stockdale lane, and winding along it to
the right you are soon in the Kirkby Malham and Settle road, at the
site of the Roman camp previously mentioned. The earthen mounds
which form the ramparts of the camp cover a large area, the most
extensive section being a quadrilateral measuring 110 yards by 90 yards,
and separated on the north by a double line of works. On the east side
there is the site of an old pond or cistern used to supply the camp with
water, and described by a writer in the Gentleman's Magazine for 1784, as
44 a noble spring, artificially surrounded with an earthen bank." The
same writer also observes that the camp is " exactly like " that on Mam
Tor, in Derbyshire, a statement which is copied by Gough in his edition
of Camden's Britannia. The phrase " exactly like " should, however,
be received with caution.* Fragments of the bones of red-deer have
been found on the site of the Settle camp.

At the bridge on the left, a short distance on the Kirkby Malham
road, is the romantic Scaleber waterfall, a very beautiful and imposing
sight, which is caused by the downthrow of the South Craven Fault.
From the junction of the roads a descent of one mile is made into Settle
by the Roman Catholic Chapel and the old " Folly."

* A description of the camp on Mam Tor, accompanied by a crudely drawn
ground-plan, will be found in Bray's Tour in Derbyshire, 2nd ed. (1783) pp. 202-5.
** On High Hill, near Settle," observes Whitaker, " was very lately found [ca. A.D.
1800] a brass celt, differing from all which I have seen in the form of the loop-
holes, by which it was fixed to the shaft, and in being serrated on the edges."

128

OHAPTEE VIII.

Up Eibblesdale from Settle.

Up the Ribble — The Settle and Carlisle railway — Some interesting features of its
construction— Particulars of viaducts and tunnels — Enormous difficulties —
Longest tunnels in England — Winskill Rock — Tremendous blast— Stainforth
—Its former importance— The old Knights of Stainforth — A horse's skull
found buried in Giggles wick church — Early property transactions — Stainforth
Force — A wild walk — The oldest rocks in Yorkshire — Scientific aspects of the
scenery — Glacial drift and boulders— Some remarkable examples.

O-DAY we will look for interest along the lonely Ribble, in
the six romantic miles which lie, or rather are " heaped up "
between Settle and Horton. This is a journey performed
by most folk with the magic bit of cardboard which enables
them to bowl along at the rate of forty or fifty miles an hour, without
so much as a glance at the Golden Land they are passing through. Our
" compartment " this morning, however, will be a pretty roomy one, for
we intend to do these six miles de rigeur, a-foot, with many an inquisitive
peep and look round Nature's mysterious workshop, and not be
transmitted "through," like a parcel, tied round with a rope, — the
deserved fate, according to the omniscient and immortal Ruskin, of
every traveller by rail !

But first of all, in spite of Mr. Ruskin and the angels, I must say
something of that wonderful iron arm which holds the purple-trimmed
waste (or waist) of royal Bellisama* in its tight embrace. Penetrating
the great Pennine chain of hills, it traverses one of the wildest, most
mountainous, and most difficult railway passes in England. When the
ground was first surveyed the scheme was pronounced by at least one
eminent engineer as unsafe and impracticable. Public ways would have
to be diverted, the river in at least one place would have to be turned

* It may be pertinent to remark here that the first mention of Ribble by name
after the Roman Bellisama was forgotten, is in the beginning of the 8th century.
41 Terne datee S. Wilfrido a regibus juxta jRibcl flu. id est Hsmunderness. Ex libro
de vita S. Wilfridi " (Lei and, Coll., vol. iii., p. 169). Bellisama, it may further be
stated, is a Phoenician word signifying Venus In the waters. ( Vide Rauthmel's
Bremetonaca, p. 99.)

129

out of its coarse, shifting moors and morasses would have to be crossed,
and secure foundations for nearly a score viaducts obtained, besides a
vast amount of boring and blasting through the hardest rock, including
many miles of tunnelling ; while the metals would run at such an
altitude and in such places as to be liable to the dangers of sudden
waterspouts and floods, and in winter to repeated and impassable drifts
of snow. The picture of this proposed Alpine railway was indeed a
gloomy one, yet the whole of these obstacles have been overcome, and the
line is now rendered one of the best, safest, and quickest railway routes in
the kingdom. In fact, a stranger to the district may apprehend nothing
remarkable during his flight between Settle and Carlisle, and would
hardly realise where the difficulties have been. They have, however,
been very great, and only mastered after great loss of life and enormous
monetary outlay. At the quiet little church of Chapel-le-Dale, for
example, the burials, which ordinarily average one or two a year, for
several years exceeded forty per annum. But these, of course, included
deaths on the railway works from ordinary sickness.

Now let us see what was done. In the 5| years taken to
make the railway £2,700,000 were expended. The first sod was cut
near Anley in Nov., 1869, and the line was opened for goods traffic in
Aug., 1875, and for passengers on May 1st, 1876. Its length from the
junction at Settle to that at Carlisle is Vl\ miles, of which 29 are in
Yorkshire, 20 in Westmoreland, and 23 \ in Cumberland. On the first
section between Settle and Dent there were nearly 3000 labourers
employed. This was the toughest length of the whole route, and it
reaches in Blea Moor tunnel' an altitude of 1151 feet above sea-level,
being, with the exception of the Tebay and Barnard Castle line between
Barras and Bowes, the highest point at which railway metals have been
laid for passenger traffic in England. This tunnel is 2640 yards in
length, and in the deepest part 500 feet below the outer surface. The
nature of the ground (described below) rendered the work of boring and
clearing extremely arduous, not to say dangerous. When the great
waterspout fell on Whernside during its construction, inundating the
tunnel and doing immense damage, many shook their heads gravely and
believed it would have to be abandoned as a hopeless job. While in
progress it may be mentioned that about £50 a month was spent in
candles to afford light in the tunnel for carrying on the excavations.

The great viaduct at Batty Green, the longest between Settle and
Carlisle, was another prodigious detail of the work of engineering. It
contains 34,000 cubic yards of masonry, besides 6000 feet of concrete.
The length of the viaduct is 1328 feet, composed of 24 arches, of an
average span of 45 feet, and the height of the loftiest from the parapet
to the foundations is 165 feet. Nearly all the piers rest on a bed of

130

concrete 6 feet thick, laid upon the solid rock. They are 13 feet thick
at the base, and 6 feet at the spring of the arch ; every sixth pier,
however is, partly for ornament, but chiefly as a means of increasing the
strength, 18 feet thick at the top instead of six. The entire line
includes 19 viaducts, 13 tunnels, and many miles of embankments and
cuttings, the construction of which in several places almost baffled the
best skill of both the engineers and contractors. The subjoined table
furnishes some particulars of the viaducts and tunnels between Settle
and Crosby Garrett, which includes the Yorkshire portion of the line : —

LIST OF VIADUCTS.

No. Name.

No. of
Arches.

1 Settle ... ... ... 4

2 Settle, Giggleswick rd. 6

3 Batty Moss 24

4 Dent Head 10

5 Arten Gill 11

6 Dandry Mire 12

7 Quarry 4

8 AisGill 4

9 Smardale 12

10 Crosby Garrett ... 6

Length in Height in ft. Span of
feet. at deepest part. Arches in ft.

130
269
1328
596
645
700
270
270
700
270

...5of30&lof40

165

100

130

... So

LIST OF TUNNELS.

No. Name.

1 Taitlands

2 Blea Moor

3 Rise Hill

4 Moor Cock
6 Quarry ...
6 Birket ...

Length in
yards.

120
, 2640
, 1180

100
70

428

Depth in
feet.

.40 .

500 .

180 .

64 .

50 .

Strata.

Blue Limestone.
Gritstone, limestone & shale.
Blue Limestone.
Boulder Clay.
Do.

100 ... Limestone.

7 Crosby Garrett... 180

Gritstone, limestone & flint.

It will not be out of place to insert here a comparative table of some of
the longest tunnels in England : —

Yards.

Severn

Longshawe

Stanbridge ....

Wood head

Cowburn

Bramhope

Medway

Sevenoaks

Box

Littleborough ....

Sapperton

Polehill

Mersey

Bleamoor

Kilsby

Dove Holes

Shepherd's Well.
Oxted

Great Western 7664

Midland 6171

North Western 5340

Manchester & Sheffield 5297

Midland 3977

North Eastern 8745

South Eastern 8740

South Eastern 3600

Great Western 3227

Lancashire and Yorkshire 2869

Great Western 2800

South Eastern 2759

Mersey 2700

Midland 2600

Northwestern 2423

Midland 2420

Chatham and Dover 2876

Brighton and S. E. Junction 2266

181

For a good number of miles our line runs at a elevation of over 1000
feet, and in some places is unavoidably exposed to the full fury of the
tempests that sweep over these wild fells. On several occasions the
drifts of snow on the line have been tremendous, as on the 27th Oct.,
1880, when a depth of ten to fifteen feet accumulated ; and again at
Dent Head on the 6th Dec, 1882, when a force of 700 men was.
despatched from Leeds and Carlisle to clear the line for some miles
before traffic could be resumed.

The Settle and Carlisle railway is essentially a line of through traffic,
and both stations and stoppages are few and far between. If the
Company could be prevailed upon to stop excursion trains at such places
as Stainforth, Helwith Bridge, and Selside, some grand day, or half-day
trips could be conveniently made from these points, but at present these are
too far to attempt from Settle or the existing stations.

In going " up the Ribble " to Stainforth you can take either side, —
from Settle Bridge through Stackhouse, or east by Langcliffe. The
latter is the most direct (2 miles). As both these places have already
been described we will take the latter, especially if it be morning, for
then the lights are on the western vale. On leaving Langcliffe we pass
the towering "Winskill Bock, which the Craven Lime Co., Limited, has
been working now many years. The date (1873) of its commencement
is let in the face of the big, plain brick chimney, — a not specially
attractive object in so romantic a spot. The rock forms an almost
perpendicular escarpment of the thick band of limestone which occupies
the main division of the North Craven Fault. It is very white and
pure, and contains a good many fossil Gaster&poda, and occasionally
good specimens of Nautilus are found. The summit of the quarry is
overlaid with thick drift, containing pebbles of blue limestone, &c.
An apparently extensive cavern has lately been discovered at the foot of
the rock, but the descent into it is very rugged and precipitous. Several
workmen have been lowered a good distance down with the aid of ropes,
but no bottom has yet been found. A stone thrown in can be heard
rattling for some time after, and there is evidently a lot of water in
the hole.

The writer will not forget being present at an unusual blast at these
quarries. Four cwts. of powder, in three charges, were used, which blew
the rock up with a report that must have been heard, — I had almost said
felt j — several miles of. Standing in the shelter of the kilns, enormous
fragments weighing two or three cwts. flew over our heads and broke up
the soil, making the sods fly a quarter of a mile off. Fortunately for
our heads the ejected particles were sods only !

We now come to the pretty village of Stainforth, with its neat
church, trim houses and gardens, and general well-to-do appearance.

132

The village has an uneventful history dating back to a period anterior
to the Conquest. It is mentioned in Domesday, and after the foundation
of Sallay Abbey became part of the possessions of that house. It is
noteworthy that under the assessment of the Subsidy Rolls of a.d. 1379,
its 35 tax-payers, representing a population of probably nearly 200, are
charged with a sum of 32s. Considering that such towns as Leeds paid
only 60s. 4d., Bradford 23s., Halifax 12s. 8d., and Keighley 27s., the
importance of Stainforth at that time is very apparent. It must,
however, be observed that of this amount the lord of the manor, Robert
de Staynford, is taxed with the sum of 20s., being the charge fixed by
Richard II. on all the chief esquires or great landed aristocrats. The
chapel, with memorials, of this now extinct family has already been
mentioned in connection with Giggleswick church.

But one remarkable fact, which I omitted to notice in referring to
the recovery of the supposed 14th century monument of one of the
Knights of Stainforth* during the present restoration of the church,
should not be forgotten, and that is the discovery of the skull of a horse
in the vicinity of where the buried tomb-stone was found. This would
appear as if the head of the Knight's favourite charger had been buried
at or about the time of his interment in the church, a practice not
uncommon during the chivalrous era of the Middle Ages, although
instances of burial of such animals within the church are indeed rare,
and in the very few instances where such discoveries have been made,
are an undoubted indication of high distinction of their owners. The
skull of this horse was in fair condition, and the teeth almost perfect.
It may ako be noted that one of the sepulchral stones before alluded to
(page 77) bears some singularly interesting incisions. On the left or
sinister side is a gothic-headed cross, in the shaft of which is carved a
double-edged sword, indicating how closely the military spirit was
combined with religious devotion, or, in other words, how the person so
memorialised was mindful of his country and his God. This cross is
joined to another, and similar one, but the shaft is plain, and on the right
of it is carved a pair of shears, which proclaim the more peaceful calling
of a farmer or dealer in wool. The emblems of Peace and War are here

* Since the above was written I have obtained a photograph of this effigy
through the kindness of Mr. Thos. Brayshaw, Hon. Sec. of the Church Restoration
Committee. The figure, a recumbent one, is 6 feet in length, and the hands,
though quite broken off, have been in the attitude of prayer. A sword, of a kind
used during the Wars of the Roses, is depicted on the left side of the effigy. The
shoulder-pieces, hip-pieces, and the ornament of the head-gear are curious, and of
an unusual pattern, but Mr. W. H. St. John Hope, M.A., of the Society of Antiquaries,
London, to whom the photograph has been submitted, pronounces the sculpture to
be of the date 1450 to 1460. As it was found in the Stainford Chapel there is little
doubt that it was designed for a member of that family.

138

beautifully contrasted, while the union of the two figures on the same
slab shews the close and tender relationship of the deceased. Such
representations of shears, with certain other implements, may be seen on
several slabs in the catacombs at Rome, where they undoubtedly denote
the occupation of a wool-comber ; but in England they are rarely found
on sepulchral stones* except in the great sheep-rearing districts of the
north.

It is very probable that a kind of tenure in bondage continued
here until long after the dissolution of religious houses. For in a
petition addressed to George, Earl of Cumberland, in the year 1579, the
inhabitants plead inability to comply with certain terms of release made
by the then landlord, Edward Darcy, Esquire, " who," they say,
" offereth to sell us, but holdeth yt at soe unreasonable a price as wee
are never able to pay. Soe yt is, Right Hon'ble, that wee of one of our
general] assente are most hartilie desyrous that yt would pleas y'r honor
to by and purchase us, so as we myght be wholly und'r y'r honor's rule,
— and we will wijlingly give under you towards the purchase all the
goods that wee have, moveable and immovable, for good will and the
good reporte wee heare of y'r honor." But to this plaintive petition the
spendthrift buccaneering Earl was unable to give heed, for about this
time we find that his extravagant cruisings abroad had so far crippled
his means that he is writing to " My very good Lord, the Lord Burghley,
hey tresorer of Inglande," for the loan of a modest " ten thousande
pound," which he promises to " pave agayne by a thousand pounde a
yeare, and for the assurance ether paune such land as your Lo. shall
lycke, or putt soe many jen tell men in bonde as shall be thought
suffitient."

By Inquisition 1st and 3rd Elizabeth, Sir Henry Darcy, Kt. had
been instituted lord of the manor and proprietor of Freer Stainford,
being the first grantee after the Dissolution. As there are two
Stainforths, viz., Stainforth Underbargh (in the Coucher Book of Sallay
Abbey written Stamford subtus Montem), and Knight Stainforth,
now known respectively as Great and Little Stainforth, the Darcy titles
are comprehended in both, and negotiations for the dismemberment of
the estate appear shortly after its appropriation to have taken place.
Bv Fine passed 22nd Elizabeth, Thomas Armetsteede and Agnes, his
wife, are found to be parties to the transfer to Richard Palay of
" Messuage with lands in Knight Staynforth, free fishing- in the water
of the Ribble, and an eighth part of the manor of Staynforth, into 8
parts divided." The same eighth part afterwards (temp. Car. I.)
belonged to Francis Malham, of Elslack, of whom William Paley had
held the same by military service, as of his manor of Conistone, for
" the eighth part of one pound of ginger per annum." The above

134

Edward Darcy, son of Henry Darcy, Kt., seems by the language of the
petition to have been equally anxious to dispose of his Stainforth
property, and from the timely dates appended to the following
transactions we may infer they were not unfavourable to the complaining

tenants.

A.D. 1579. Plaintiffs : Thomas Asteley, John Harryngton, and Peter Osborne,
Esqrs. Deforciants : Henry Darcy, Kt., Thomas Darcy, Arthur Darcy, Nicholas
Darcy, John Darcy, Francis Darcy, and Edward Darcy. Esqrs. Manor of
8tayneforthe Underberghe, and 20 messuages, 2 watermills, and 2 windmills, with
lands in the same.

A.D. 1582-3. Plaintiff : John Lambert. Deforciant : John Faldshawe. Five
marks rent in Knyght Staynesforthe.

A.D. 1583. Plaintiff: Richard Horsfall. Deforciants: Edward Darcy, Esq.,
and Elisabeth his wife, and Henry Darcy, Kt. Messuage with lands in Stayne-
forthe Underbarghe in the parish of Giggles wick.

A.D. 1583. Plaintiff : Thomas Frankland. Deforciants : Edward Darcy and
Elizabeth Darcy, and Henry Darcy, Kt. Messuage with lands in Stayneforth
Underbarghe in the parish of Giggleswick.

A.D. 1595. Plaintiffs : Henry Laikland, John Cockett, Christopher Husband,
and William Tat ham. Deforciants : Edward Darcy and Elizabeth his wife.
Manor of Stainforth Underbargh and 20 messuages with lands there.

The picturesque old stone bridge which connects the two Stainforths,
has been stated to be of Roman origin, but this is absurd, as is alone
proved by the Domesday name of the place indicating that a ford, and
not a bridge, existed here at the time of the Norman Conquest. The
bridge may date from about this time, but it was undoubtedly preceded
by a ford, which gave the place its name.

About a hundred yards below it are the romantic Ribble Falls,
known as Stainforth Force, which form, perhaps, the finest sight along
the whole course of the river. They are best viewed from a path which
runs from the bridge along the west bank. In a time of flood the
tempestuous waters confined within narrow bounds, and precipitated
over abrupt ledges of rock into deep and inaccessible pools, present a
sublime and highly attractive scene. The limestone in the bed of the
river is much " pot-holed " by the grinding action of pebbles in the
water, and the impending cliffs on either hand are richly clothed with
verdure which help to give completeness to the picture. In the vernal
season when flower and bird are awakening to life and beauty, and the
lively greens of various mosses tinge cliff and bank, you should then
come, as the poet of Winskill invites, and

" View Stainforth Scar's bold, rugged waiiB,
An 1 then the bonny wood that grows

An' blossoms down below it —
Such scenes as these, when seen in Spring,
Wad mak a Quaker dance and sing.

An' mak a clown turn poet."

135

The broken and rugged character of the river at this point is no
doubt due in the first place to the fault which brings up the older
Silurian beds against the carboniferous rocks on the south. This highly
interesting dislocation, which gives such character to the scenery, passes
through Stainforth in an easterly or south -easterly direction to beyond
Malham Tarn, and the course of the fault, exposing the older rocks, may
be viewed in many places in the neighbourhood, but perhaps nowhere
better than on the upland walk by San net Hall to Malham or Littondale.
The rocky promontory separating the ravines of Sannet Gill from
Gatterick is also interesting, by shewing the peculiar indentation of the
Silurian rocks, opposed to the reduced cliffs of limestone on the south.

.Stainforth Force.
Turning now towards the railway-bridge we follow the " wild " road
to Horton, which traverses the upper divisions of the oldest known rocks
id our county, representing by their profound depth and character a vast
and incalculable period in the world's history. Here, where we are now
walking, these Silurian beds are estimated to be nearly two miles in
thickness. Consisting for the most part of tough grits and slates, with
a thin conglomerate forming the base of the upper series, they are largely
quarried in the district for roofing and flag-stones. Under Moughton
there is a bed of greenish-grey whet-slate, very fine and beautifully
variegated with irregular coloured rings, like those sometimes seeu in
flint pebbles. This slate is much prized as a grind-stone for sharpening

136

razors. The Upper beds are characterised by a rapidly undulating series
of folds, or anticlinals and corresponding synclinals, varying considerably
in their position and dip, as well as in colour and mineral structure.
Their edges and tops are much weathered and planed down by a long
process of denudation, even indicating by their smooth and abraded
surfaces the operations of a mysterious agency,— perhaps the effects of
an infinitely remote Ice Age ! — and shewing that an enormous length of
time must have elapsed before the reefs of limestone were deposited over
them. Owing to the thick beds of drift, which fill in some places to a
great depth the whole of this area, the boundary and sub-divisions of
the Upper and Lower Silurians are not easily traced. Some members of
the Lower group, and a conglomerate, are however in evidence at several
points, notably in the streams near Bee Croft Hall, and in the railway
cutting just below Horton station, which I shall presently mention.
The Coniston limestone appears, also, in the bed of the stream at Dow ' r )
Gill, above Horton. There is no doubt that a very lengthened interval
must likewise have occurred before the origin of these two series, as it is
found that the Coniston Flags, which are regarded as the base of the
Upper division, rest on different members of the Low T er group. I may
add that the whetstone band, above mentioned, belongs, no doubt, to
the upper part of the Lower Coniston Flags. These Silurian beds,
which underlie Ingleborough and extend eastward across Ribblesdale to
Wharf edale, attain their highest elevation (1170 feet) under the south
front of Moughton Fell, where the horizontal beds of limestone resting
unconformably upon the jagged and inclined Silurian slates, display one
of the finest geological phenomena to be seen anywhere in Yorkshire.

As we pursue our journey up the valley, with the aid of a glass a
very fair idea of the position and aspects of this grand section may be
obtained. Ascending the road to the top of Sherwood Brow what a
glorious and wild stretch of country now" lies before us ! Pendle Hill
looms dimly far away behind, with many intervening ranges and towering
crags, while the solitary Ribble foams noisily away deep in the valley
below. The water has cut its way through thick tracts of glacial drift
composed of clay, gravel, and rounded and scratched stones, often piled up
in large mounds or ridges coinciding with the direction of the valley.
Boulders, sometimes many tons in weight, occur in and upon these
accumulations of drift, and numerous examples will be observed on the
way. Some of these are beautifully smoothed and striated, shewing
clearly which way the ice moved.

Descending towards Helwith Bridge the valley is occupied with an
extensive tract of peaty drift, which, no doubt, for a long time, was the
site of an ancient lake. A deflection of the great Ribblesdale glacier
filled the depression which we see between Moughton and Swarth Moor,

137

leaving as it retreated, this low-lying flat covered with an expanse of
water. Several alpine and sub-arctic plants still occur in the vicinity.

The meaning of Helwith is somewhat perplexing. The first syllable,
probably, denotes a hollow place, but as to the meaning of the second that
is not so clear, unless we can explain it in the following little story
related of Sir Walter Scott, who when a boy, was asked by his teacher :
What part of speech is the word * with ' ?" " A noun," said Walter.
Tou young blockhead," said the pedagogue, " what example can you
give of such a thing ?" " Please, sir," answered the boy meekly, " there
is a verse in the Bible which says, ' They bound Samson with wiOis? "
The willow (A.S. withig) is certainly abundant in this locality and may
have been much more so formerly. I have observed several species,
notably the Tea-leaved willow, (£'. phylicifolia), which, like all the willows,
is much subject to the peculiar attacks of the gall-fly.

Arrived at the little hamlet of Studfold, picturesquely sheltered under
a wooded ridge of dark Silurians, the old flag-quarry in the lower
division of the Ooniston Flags may be profitably examined. The beds,
which are somewhat coarse, dip here at an angle of forty degrees or
more, and among the planes of laminae occur various small shells, but
chiefly of the genus Orthoceratites. There is an old, two-century
building close by, and descending by this to a stile below the Studfold
farm, a path leads across the Ribble by a single-timber bridge into an
old road, which, in wet weather, however, is more like a rough and stony
river-course. But it is often an agreeable deviation from the ordinary
highway, and to the botanical explorer its shrubby and well-flowered
banks yield rare spoil. In about a mile it terminates at Crag Hill farm,
whence there is a field path to Horton.

There is a fine exhibition of ice-polishing in the railway cutting
between here and Horton, about 500 to 600 yards south of the station,
where the upper rock surfaces are splendidly glaciated. The metals are
laid for a distance of 250 yards between a boulder-clay ridge or drumlin,
at its deepest part being about 40 feet. Similar ridges occur both to
the north and south of Horton, which gave the railway contractors
•some tough work during the construction of the line. These drumlins
are also found at great elevations, on Blea Moor, for example at nearly
2000 feet.

Having now conducted you to the mountain " town " of Horton,
particulars of this interesting locality will be found in that section of
our work. The evening train to Settle may be taken, and some idea
obtained of the laborious construction of this grand Highland line.

138

CHAPTER IX.

Lawkland and the Scar Caves.

A lovely walk— Lanes of wild flowers — Lawkland— The Old Hall of the Inglebys
— The smallest church in Yorkshire — Cross Streets and the Roman highway —
Buckhaw Brow — Kelcowe Cave — Buckhaw Brow Cave — Cave Ha', an old bear
den— Interesting discoveries — Austwick Beck— A Btory of the coaching days.

NE of the sweetest country walks I know of from Giggleswick
is to go under the railway viaduct from the Craven Inn, and
by way of Lawkland to Cross Streets for Clapham or Austwick ;
or return to Settle by Buckhaw Brow and the Ebbing and Flowing
Well ; the latter a round of about six miles. To Clapham by Lawkland
it is also six miles. When you get up to the Ridge, a little beyond
Grain's House, the view is very pleasing, with the rich green valley
below, in which nestle the little towns of Settle and Giggleswick.
Above is the grand line of scars extending from Attermire to
Ingleborough — the Schoolboys' Tower on Giggleswick Scar being a
prominent object — while the majestic range of the Ingleborough fella
occupies the whole of the prospect northwards. Here, I should say, we
are on the south side of the great Craven Fault, so that we get a very
comprehensive view of the effects of that extraordinary fracture upon
the suiTounding scenery.

Our road hence is a perfect picture in the loveliness of its floral
display. The high and broad banks are decked with fruiting hazels,
graceful willows, blush and white roses, luscious honeysuckle, with here
and there a wild gooseberry or rasp, and among their spreading branches
climb the purple blossoms of the tufted vetch, large masses of creamy
cicely, pink knapweed and betony, tall plumy thistles, clustering St.
John's wort, red campion, and the frail white blossoms of the lesser
stitchwort, delicate harebells, white and blue, nodding foxgloves, yellow,
branching nipplewort, golden-rayed ragwort, great willow-herb, purple
crane8bill, figwort and valerian, climbing bryony with its dark, glossy
leaves, sweet violets, and the " pansy freak'd with jet," —

! these lack not
To make you garlands of.

Keeping along the Kirkbj Lonsdale road, where it joins the Settle-
and Lancaster road, a little beyond Paley Green farm, our path is still
through the same continuous wild-garden. In some places the
great bell-flowers, musical with the murmur of many bees, form dense
and undivided masses, while clumps of male fern, and the bright spangle
of colour present an endless variety of rich ■' studies " to the artist.
Near the little hamlet of Lawkland there grows a few plants of the
beautiful borage, its brilliant azure flowers being conspicuous by the
way-side. It is the only plant of its genus that is found in this northern
climate of ours ; its true home being on the sunny shores of the
Mediterranean.

Ingleborough from the Railway near Lawkland.

We have now reached Lawkland, with its thick, climbing woods
on our left, and in the shelter of them stands one of the " stately homes of
England," old Lawkland Hall. The place has no doubt received its
name from the hollow ground here, now drained, having been the site of
an ancient lake. In some early deeds relating to the property I find the
name written Laiklaud.* The Hall has a lofty frontage, and has small
square windows, and a massive central square tower. The latter is
ascended by a spiral staircase continued to the summit. The walls are
of great thickness, and on the south side is an old sun-dial. In the east
wing is the chapel in which services were held up to the time of building
a known by the suggestive name of

140

the Roman Catholic Chapel in the village, about a century ago. A
portion of the interior is pannelled with black oak, and in several of the
windows are pieces of stained glass with armorial bearings. The ceiling
of the drawing-room is also decorated with the arms of Ingleby impaling
Bradshaigh. Over the north entrance door is a shield bearing the arms
of Ingleby. This side of the house is in the Elizabethan style of
architecture, but the tower and south front are probably of the time
of Henry VII. The Hall and Manor have been the property of the
Ingleby family for three centuries, and up to thirty years ago was their
oontinuous residence. The house is now let and occupied by the Rev.
B. E. Watkins, M.A., late rector of Treeton, near Rotherham.

The family of Ingleby appeal's to have been originally of Engelbi,
near Lincoln, and to have spelt its name in that way. previous to settling
At Ripley. The spelling has since then varied. Lawkland Hall and
Manor were purchased about the year 1572 by John Ingilby, of Acomb
Grange, second son of Sir Wm. Ingilby, Kt., of Ripley Castle, of his
uncle, Peter Yorke, of Middlesmoor, Co. York., who was governor of
Leith, in Scotland, temp. Edward VI. He likewise purchased the
manor of Clapham from William Clapham, Esq., of Beamsley, together
with Clapdale Castle, and also became lord of the manor of Hutton Rudby,
in Cleveland. He was twice married, first to Anne, daughter of Wm.
■Clapham, of Beamsley, and secondly to Alice, sister of Sir Thomas
Layton. His will is dated 1608, and he was buried at Hutton Rudby.
Thomas Ingleby, son by his first wife, was lord of the manors of
Lawkland and Clapham. He eventually sold the manor of Hutton Rudby.
He died in 1622, aged 58, and was buried on Easter Day in the north
ohoir of Clapham church. Successive generations of the family have
also found a last resting-place in the same old church. Lawkland Hall
and Manor have since remained a possession of the Ingtebys, and while
this for so long a period has been their parent home, various members of
the family had other seats in the neighbourhood.

A little further on and we pass the diminutive Roman Catholic Chapel,
which was built in 1790, when the Inglebys turned Protestant. Up
to twelve years ago it had a resident priest, but is now served from Settle.
The neat little church, which has seat-room for about fifty worshippers,
may vie in the smallness of its dimensions with the famous little edifices
of St. Lawrence in the Isle of Wight, and Culbone in North Devon.*

* Their dimensions in the order of their diminutiveneBS are these : (1) St.
Lawrence's, originally 20 feet long, but a chancel having been added, it is now 30
feet long and 12 feet wide. (2) Lawkland, 20 feet by 19 feet. (2) Culbone, 83 feet
•by 12 feet. There are several very small churches in Cumberland, notably at
Wythburn, under Helvellyn, and Wastdale Head. The last mentioned is 36 feet
•by 14 feet, 6 feet to the eaves, and 17 feet high to the middle of the rafters. These
particulars I have obtained on the spot.

141

Arrived at the Oross Streets Inn we are at the junction of the roads to-
Au8bwick (1 mile), Clapham (2 miles), and Settle (4 miles), and the view
hence is exceedingly grand of the lofty crags of Moughton to the north,
with their long " dining-table " top forming a curious level ridge above
the line of white scars. Far up the dale we can descry the lonely
Crummack farm, whose only sight of a human dwelling is the single
house where we now stand. If after a heavy rain you are here the
Norber beck presents a striking scene as it lashes the face of its high dark
cliff with foam. Cross Streets was at the divergence of two Roman military
ways from the east and south, continuing westwards to Clapham and
Ingleton, and joining other military ways which passed Wennington to-
Overborough and Lancaster. Numerous coins, &c, have been found in
the neighbourhood, and the two camps above Stainforth and Settle I
have already elsewhere described.

Having in a previous chapter described the Scar road as far as-
Buckhaw Brow (815 feet), the highest point of the main road between
the Yorkshire and Lancashire coasts, we may as well continue our walk
to Clapham. We should, however, mention that before coming to the
Ebbing and Flowing Well, Kelcowe wood is passed on the right, and
beyond it is the Ox Scar, at the foot of which, and within 20 yards of
the road, is the little Buckhaw Brow Cave. The meaning of Kelcowe
seems obscure. It may be a corruption of hil, a spring, and hoive, a hill,,
in allusion to the adjacent ebbing and flowing well, which, as previously
explained, must have been an important tutelary spring appropriated to-
sacred uses in Saxon times, as well as in the more primitive ages preceding.
In fact, the prefix Kel or Kit may have a Celtic meaning, and indicate the
presence of a church or cell, (Cym. Celt, cell), as in Ireland ; and the
latter part of the word come from A.S. cofa, a cove, as in Cowes,
(i.e., the coves) in the Isle of Wight. If this be so it establishes my
supposition that the original village and church at Giggleswick stood
nearer the old well and tarn than at present. Perhaps, also, the mysterious-
Saint Alkelda, to whom the church is dedicated, is nothing more than a
contortion of the A.S. hwliy held, i.e., holy well. In this Kelcowe scar
there is a small cave, in which various Roman fibulas, and coins of the
reign of Vespasian, were unearthed about fifty years ago. The cave, like
many others in the district, had no doubt been a settled habitation
during and subsequent to the Roman invasion.

A little above the ebbing and flowing well, on the Giggleswick side,
there is a wide breach in the scar known from time immemorial a&
Nevison's Nick. The story runs that in the days of the " Merry
Monarch " the bold highwayman, who had been having a rather lively
time of it down Skipton way, in order to make good his escape, mounted
his trusty steed and rode off in the direction of Winterburn. But he

142

was closely pursued, so casting a pin for luck into St. Helen's Well he,
undaunted, struck the hills, and crossing Hanlith Moor leaped the
chasm at Gordale head, and away he went over Malham Moor and by
the bridle-path to Langcliffe, where he had to descend and mount the
fells again. Coming to the " Nick " in Giggleswick Scar he spurred his
horse and leaped the gap in safety, — his wonderful steed avoiding the
crevices of the limestone pavement with very nice agility — and then with
pistol raised galloping through the quiet village of Clapham, to the great
alarm of the natives, he took the Kendal road and was soon lost among
the hills again ! There are, however, other versions of this tradition.

Leaving the old coach-road by Brunton House we now take the low road
through Cave Ha 1 wood. The mouth of the cave, or hole, — an old
bear-den, — can be seen up in front of the scar from the road. It is only
a depression or opening in the face of the scar and is now very difficult
of access, owing to the yielding nature of the rock and soil. Some years
ago important discoveries were made in it. In the upper deposits were
found various implements and flakes of chert and flint, as well as other
ancient remainsin stoneandiron. These were mixed up with existing animal
remains and recent works of art, by the evident operations of badgers,
rabbits, &c. Lower down, beneath a bed of undisturbed cave debris,
(composed chiefly of angular fragments of limestone), remains of goat or
sheep, dog, and cave-bear were turned up. On the upper floor immense
quantities of the bones of mice were found strewn among the broken-up
pellets of owls, proving that these creatures must have been very
abundant here. There is a hole overhead where the owls appear to have
lived, but this apparently has not been explored. The owls, no doubt,
captured and brought in the mice for food. Similar deposits have been
noted in the Victoria Cave and other ossiferous caverns in the district.
The cave has long been the haunt of a colony of jackdaws, and on this
account has earned its present local sobriquet of Jackdaw Hole.

Now we come to Cross Streets again, and descend over the good
two-arch bridge across Austwick Beck. Ordinarily this is but a murmuring
trout-beck, but in times of flood I have seen the whole space between
the walls on its upper side filled with water, a width of twenty yards.
Before the bridge was built, half-a-century ago, it was a well-known
ford, and the only place on the coach road between Leeds and Kendal
where, it is said, 1 6 horses could drink at once in a line side by side.

What incidents of this road might we not relate of those merry old
posting days ! As we are now within a short distance of Clapham,
passing the beautiful domain of Ingleborough House (J. A. Farrer, Esq.,
J. P.), I may as well conclude this chapter with a tale racy of that
bygone age, and which will serve to illustrate in an amusing manner the
superstitions of the times. The story has been communicated to me by

143

Mr. J. S. Nicholson, of Liverpool, a native of the district, where his
44 statesmen " forelders have been resident for centuries, and where, at
Lawkland, he still owns an old property of the family.

At the period referred to, now more than 70 years ago, the old Lion
inn at Settle (where the coaches always stopped ) was kept by a Mrs. Hartley,
who was one of the most capable and popular landladies in the north of
England during the coaching days. The old coach road joined the
present one at Settle Bridge, which, as I have before explained, was
much narrower then than it is now. It next passed through the village
of Giggleswick and by the Tarn at the foot of the scars, whence, at what
is now known as Brunton Lane End you meet with it for about a mile,
and re-entering the present road it ran on by Austwick to Clapham, and
forward by the old road to Ingleton for Kendal, which I shall bye and
bye describe. But now we will let Mr. Nicholson tell his story, the truth
of which, he says, is vouched for from the fact that his informant
was a member of the household where farmer John passed the night.

The coach from Kendal was returning by Austwick to Settle one evening
towards winter, and had as one of its passengers an old farmer, (I could tell you
his name, but we will suppress it and call him John) who had been to a
neighbouring fair to dispose of a cow, and was returning, as not unfrequently
happened in these days, in a rather advanced state of inebriety, after having sold
the animal. Some friends had put him in the coach, and as he could hardly take
care of himself the guard of the coach was requested to look after him.

Now as the old farmer lived some distance from the road, the guard determined
to leave him at the house of a neighbouring farmer, whose house was close by, and
who was a man well-known and highly respected in the district. The coach
having duly arrived at the place where old John was to be left, the guard did
not stop the coach till it had gone a short distance past the house, when he had to
half carry the old man back. This was a very neatly-arranged proceeding which
enabled the wily guard to relieve the old farmer of the bag of money he had
received for the cow !

In the meantime the gentleman whose house they were approaching had come
to the door with his wife and daughters to see what was the cause of the coach
stopping at such a place. On hearing, however, the particulars of the case, and
realising the helpless condition of his old friend, he at once consented to let him
stay all night at his house. They got him upstairs and put him to sleep in a bed
in a large room where two young men slept in another bed. But in the course of
the night old John wakened up, and began to talk, imagining that he was in his
own bed at home, and by this means he wakened the young fellows in the other bed.
In this semi-Bomnolent state he began to talk, as he thought, to his wife, and one
remark which he made occasioned the young fellows opposite to laugh so loudly
that the old man was more thoroughly roused, and he began to enquire where he
was. But the young men, in order to chaff him a little, did not tell him at first
where he was, but when he did get to know he was quite satisfied, saying that if he
was at Mr. So-and-so's (naming the owner) he was quite right.

However, in the morning when he got up, on looking for his money and not
finding it he was thrown into a state of great excitement, and after understanding
how he had been left, and by whom, he at once exclaimed, " I know who has got

144

my brass. That guard has robbed me." (I suppose he must have had some
faint recollection of wbat had transpired, and the guard, I must add, did Dot bear
a very good character amongst the residents of the district.) After breakfa't the
old farmer went home and told his wife, and finally he decided to consult a
local '■ wiseman."

Now in the neighbourhood of Bentham at that period there lived a well-known
astrologer and wiseman, and to him old John sent his servant-man with
instructions to find out the truth of his master's suspicions concerning the guard.
When the man returned he was questioned as to the result of his interview. Said
he, " When I saw th' wiseman an' towd him what i.hd c
lad, sit tha doon a bit, and ah'll tell tha who it were.'
ma, he took ma tul a glass, an' I began to beeal [cry out] when I saw t'seet.
Theer i't glass I saw ivverything takking plaace on't night ye were robbed ! I saw

t'oooach and t'nian dragging on ye to Maieter (naming the farmer at whose

house he had been) and then I saw t'guard tewing wi ye'r pocket, an' I thowt I
saw ye twig (detect] him, but he gat ye'r brass, reckonin' to tak uncuth [offence J
at ye'r bother. Nay, an' t'wiseman showed me ivverything as plain as if I bed
been theer mysel'."

Old John replied that he knew who had taken his •' brass," thoroughly
believing in the Wiseman's power to aid him.

145

CHAPTER X.

Clapham.

Charming Clapham— Former aspects— Flying Hortte Shoe Hotel — Its meaning
explained — Ancient state of the manor — Old families — The Church and
Market Cross — Old Manor House — Sir Michael Faraday, son of a Clapham
blacksmith — Ingleborough Hall — Romantic cascades — Old coaching days.

[HARMING Clapham ! What phrase shall appropriately express
the beauty of thy bashful shades ? Like a lovely and coy
maiden, or a violet in its leafy bower, thy presence in sooth,
seems half -willing to be seen. But beauty, says a Spanish saw, is born
married, and may not live apart, and true merit likewise, be whatsoever
in kind, will be found out. Therefore, my pretty village, it is of no use
sighing for inglorious concealment, or attempting to hide thyself beneath
thy crown of leaves ! The tourist who is familiar with the loveliness
of Derbyshire, or with the quiet, sweet combes and luxuriant lanes of
Devonshire and Kent, or who has trudged through Yorkshire dales,

Among the cliffs and winding scars,
Where deep and low the hamlets lie,
Beneath their little patch of sky,
And little lot of stars, —

may have come upon many a snug old English retreat, half smothered
in honeysuckles and roses, with a babbling brook singing its " song of
peace " by cot and hall, but surely he will have rarely found a spot more
beautiful than this, or one, indeed, with greater attractions in its
neighbourhood. The village itself has such a well-to-do appearance,
and possesses withal so charming an aspect of neatness and tranquility
that is quite refreshing to the jaded mind. Its picturesqueness also is so
captivating, that in spite of all our wanderings, and the sight of many a
rival spot in bonnie Craven, and elsewhere in our beautiful county, we
would fain claim for it the title of " the prettiest village in Yorkshire."
Many a time in clear and sunny weather have we left Clapham station,
and pursued the white road to the village, — a walk of about a mile — the
fresh breezes sweeping down from the crags, with the distant, bossy top
of Penyghent peering beyond old Robin Proctor's Scar, — and looking

146

sometimes so near that you might almost shoot an arrow on to it, — and
with Austwick woods and the slope of Smearside away to the right ;
while in front, to the north, the mammoth back and adamantine brow of
royal Ingleborough rises in proud defiance, — a majestic bulwark of rock
and fell, seeming verily to exclaim as we advance, " I am lord of all !"

There were formerly four inns in the village ; now there is but one,
and in the old visitors 9 books kept there many a familiar name in local
science, art, and literature is inscribed, with many another from distant
and foreign parts, attracted to the picturesque neighbourhood, and
especially to the great Cave, the finest undoubtedly in the North of
England. Many of the cottages also receive visitors, but as such
accommodation is limited, these in the summer months are generally
full. There is another inn, hear the station, which bears a sign which I
believe is unique in Yorkshire, if not in England. It is called the
Flying Horse Shoe, the meaning of which has fermented much
controversy from time to time. Some have supposed that it came from
the old English game of quoits, in which the horse-shoe was sometimes
employed. Strutt, in his " Sports and Pastimes of the People of
England," says that formerly in the country, " the rustics not having
the round perforated quoits to play with, used horse shoes, and in many
places the quoit itself to this day is called a shoe.' 9 The sign here,
however, has nothing to do with the game of quoits. It has a winged
horse-shoe pictured upon it, which is simply the crest of the Farrers,
who for some time have been lords of the manor of Clapham. The
name Farrer means no doubt farrier, just as Marshall and Smith do,
and the wings to the horse shoe, I am told, imply that horses shod by
the ancestors of the Farrers were supposed to/fy, a sort of advertisement
of their skill in that line. The family motto is Ferre va ferme. The
inn was built by the family in 1850, and for very many years has been
tenanted by Mr. Henry Coates, who rents with his farm the celebrated
Clapham or, as it is as often called, Ingleborough Cave from the Farrers,
who are now the owners.

The present lord of Ingleborough and Clapham is James Anson
Farrer, Esq., J.P., son of the Rev. M. T. Farrer, M.A., who died in
London in July, 1889, and was buried at Shirley, in Surrey, where he had
been formerly vicar. His predecessor, James Farrer, Esq., J.P., D.L.,
and M.P. for South Durham, 1847-57 and 1859-65, was brother to the
Rev. M. T. Farrer, and died unmarried June 9th, 1879. Their father,
Jas. W. Farrer, Esq., of Ingleborough, was one of the masters in
Chancery, J.P. for Lancashire and Westmoreland, J.P. and D.L. for Co.
York, who died in 1863, in his 79th year. The schools in the village
were erected as a memorial to him by several members of the family
in 1864.

147

The Manor of Clapham was granted by Roger de Mowbray in the
time of Henry II., probably about a.d. 1170, to William de Clapham.
In this undated charter, the boundaries of the manor are thus described,
but many of the names, it may be observed, are now obsolete.

•' A Lord's Seat (some elevated point, undoubtedly named from the Mowbrays)
et recta linea usque Faery Seat, et sic UBque Arke de Ravenber, et sic usque ad
Kirk de Ravenber, et deinde usque Roundpot ac Stagnum usque Saddleston super
Akebank, et sic usque ad Colden wells in Wescoe, deinde ad SkirtcrosB, et duplicem
foream de Green Boriber, et sic ad pedem de Fumtnaber Sike, et sic sursum
praedictum Sike, usque Fummaber Stones.

" Test. Rob. de Wensbrough, Wulfurd Kipox, Rogero de Tendes, Alfred de
Mereris, Augustino de Ustwice, Olivero de Horton, Nic. de Otterburn, Car. de
Cansfield, Radulpho Bellax, Willo Dautry, Rolando de Lasse."

There appears no evidence of an Anglo-Saxon settlement here beyond
the name Clapham, that is the heim or home of Clapa, its first Saxon
owner. The name Clapa occurs amongst the witnesses to a charter of
Canute. A daughter of this nobleman named Gytha was married, it is
said, with great pomp at Lambeth to one Tovi the Proud, in a.d. 1042,
and at the wedding feast the King, Hardicanute, was present, and it is
furthermore recorded that, drinking to such excess, he died suddenly of
apoplexy in the midst of the guests, thus ending his reign of tyranny
and indolence within three years of his accession to the throne. The
first lords of whom we have any positive knowledge subsequent to the
Conquest were the De Claphams. Dods worth tells us that they had a
stronghold on the brow of Ingleborough, that this " Clapdale Castle hath
been very large and strong, and standeth on the skirt of the high hill
Ingleborrow, w'ch shooteth tow'ds Clapham, and was the desmayne of ye
Claphams in later times, but I think it was builded by Adam de Staveley,
or o'e of his ancestors, who sold the chace of Ingleborrow to Roger
Mowbray, temp. Joh'is." In Glover's " Visitation of Yorkshire,"
(1584-5), and in Dugdale's Visitation, (1665), the pedigree of the family
is recorded.

By the marriage of Thomas de Clapham with Elizabeth, daughter
and co-heiress of William de Moore, of Otterburne, in the time of
Edward III., the manor of Beamsley was added to the family estates. The
eldest son of this match was John Clapham, a fierce and staunch adherent
to the Lancastrian cause during the wars of the Roses, who is said to
have severed the heads of Jasper, Earl of Pembroke, and the Duke of
Bedford with his own hands in the porch of the church at Banbury, two
days after the battle of Danesmoor in July, 1468. He himself was
subsequently captured in a part of the fleet organised by Warwick, the
scheming King Maker, and shortly afterwards impaled, with other
gentlemen, by the Earl of Worcester at Southampton. There is a tradition
that the Claphams were buried upright in a chantry vault at Bolton

148

Abbey, upon which circumstance Wordsworth founds Mb well-known
lines in the " White Doe of Rylstone."

By warrant against William Clapham, of Beamsley, and his heirs, and
John Clapham, of Beamsley, son of Eobert Clapham, of Clapham,
deceased, and his heirs, the manor of Clapham, with Clapdale, and 24
messuages, 24 cottages, a water-mill, and a fulling-mill, were purchased
in a.d. 1572-3 by John Ingleby, of Acomb Grange, son of Sir Wm.
Ingleby, Kt., of Ripley Castle, who had lately purchased (and removed
to) Lawkland Hall. His son Thomas was lord of the manor of Clapham
until his death in 1622, when it descended to Arthur Ingleby, who
resided at Clapdale Hall, and who was lord of the manors of Lawkland
and Thorpe % He was D.L. of Co. York, and died at Clapham in 1701.
He sold the manor of Clapham to Josiah Morley, gent., of Scale House,
Rylstone, who died in 1731, in his 80th year, and was buried at Bolton
Abbey. His son, John Morley, who married at 21, and died in 1718
at the age of 26, left a daughter, Margaret, born in 1716, who became
the wife of the Rev. Thos. Wilson, D.D., afterwards Dean of Carlisle,
who died Sept. 25th, 1778. His son, the Rev. Thos. Wilson, M.A.,
inherited the estates at Clapham and Horton-in-Ribblesdale, with a
moiety of the manor of Rathmell, and assumed in consequence the name
of Morley. He died in 1818, bequeathing his inheritance to his son,
Thos. Wilson Morley, Esq. The Rev. T. W. Morley, and others, on May
1st, 1856, sold the manor of Clapham and all their estates in Clapham
to James W. Farrer, Esq., as narrated above.

The first of the Farrers who settled at Clapham appears to have been
Richard Farrer, gent., of Greystonleigh, Co. Lanes., born in 1658, and
died at Clapham in 1742, aged 84. He married at Clapham, in 1686,
Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Oliver Guy, of Lanshaw, a farm in
the parish of Clapham. In consequence of his son Robert's imprudent
marriage, he gave up Greystonleigh to him, (it having been entailed on
him) and came with his wife to reside at Lanshaw, probably about the
year 1726, as Robert's first, son was born in 1727.* Richard's son,
Oliver, died in 1724, leaving a son James, who married in 1741 and
died in 1766. His son, James Farrer, Esq., of Newcastle House,
Lincoln's Inn Fields, was lord of the manor of Austwick. He married
in 1782 Frances, only daughter and heiress of Wm. Loxham, Esq., of
Woodford, Essex. He built Ingleborough Hall, the present family seat
at Clapham. His son, Jas. Wm. Farrer, Esq., was born in 1785 and
died in 1863, as stated above.

The present lord, James A. Farrer, Esq., previously mentioned, is an
author of some celebrity. His writings, which are chiefly relating to
the manners and religion of ancient peoples, cover a wide field of thought,

* Sec the Will of Thomas Carr (A..D. 1549) p. 99.

149

and are marked by considerable insight, great breadth of treatment,
and originality. In 1879 appeared his "Zululand and the Zulus,"
also " Primitive Manners and Customs ;" in 1880, " Crimes and
Punishments," including a translation of Beccario's book of that title ;
in 1885, " Military Manners and Customs," and a pamphlet on "War,"
consisting of three chapters from the former. In 1891 was published
" Paganism and Christianity," in which the author maintains that the
Pagans were much happier and holier in their own illiterate faith, and
their moral teaching was laid on a purer, higher and less selfish level,
than that of the Fathers of the Church, and that on the whole the triumph
of Christianity over Paganism " has been not a gain, but a misfortune
to the world, and has retarded rather than promoted civilisation."

The Inglebys continued in possession of Clapdale Hall from its
acquisition in 1573 until the time of Arthur Ingleby, Esq., who was
born in 1773 and died in 1852. He sold Clapdale Hall, and went to
live at Austwick. His elder brother, John Abbotson Ingleby, Esq., was
born at Clapdale Hall in 1764, and afterwards resided at Lawkland, of
which place he was manor lord, where he died in 1831. His son,
Thomas Ingleby, Esq., .J. P., succeeded to the Lawkland estates. He
waft baptised at Clapham .in 1 788, leaving a son, the late Christopher
Ingleby, Esq., J.P., who died in 1889. See Austwick.

The church at Clapham, doubtless of Saxon origin, though not
mentioned in Domesday, was erected in the time of Henry I., but of the
original structure nothing remains but the low, embattled western tower.
The rest of the building was re-erected in 1814. Scon after its
foundation the church formed part of the numerous endowments of the
Benedictine Abbey of St. Mary's, York. The immunities enjoyed by
this mitred monastery, which included exemption of their lands from
toll, &c, must have distinguished Clapham as a place of note and
comparative affluence in pre-Reformation days. On the creation of the
See of Chester in 1542, the benefice, with patronage, was given, with
other possessions of the Archdeaconry of Richmond, to the Bishop of
Chester. The living, a discharged vicarage, is now in the gift of the
Bishop of Ripon. The following are the names of the incumbents with
the dates of their institution : —

A.D. 1252

AmfriduB.

A.D. 1654

Alex. Johnson.

William de Walton.

1661

1368

Adam Wylwra.

1685

Edward Lodge.

1391

Joh. de Derlington.

1697

Nathaniel Armistead.

Joh. de Beryngham.

1730

J Graves.

1394

Joh. Sandal 1.

1755

W. Currer.

1424

Job. Robinson.

1783

John Halton.

[some omissions]
Anthony Battersby.

1837

Chas. Overton.*

1574

1841

John Marriner.

1589

Thomas Proctor.

1876

John Meire Ward.

1639

James Critchlev.

* Author of " Cottage Lectures on the Pilgrim's Progress/' and other smaller works.

150

The ancient parsonage at Clapham was for many generations the
occasional residence of the church dignitaries from Richmond, and its
site on the south-east side of the church is identified by the name of
Archdeacon's Croft, which from the discovery of human bones within it,
appears to have been taken out of the old church-yard. The church,
consisting of chancel, nave of five bays, aisles, and square tower, has
sittings for 700 persons. In 1884 it was fitted with new choir stalls,
pulpit, prayer-desk, &c , and the interior otherwise renovated and
improved. The ancient bells in the tower were re-hung, and a new
clock placed in the tower at a cost of about £90. The expenses of these
improvements were borne principally by the Rev. M. T. Farrer, of
Ingleborough. The Registers date from a.d. 1595, and are, with the
exception of a few portions, very fairly preserved.

Among the epitaphs there is one " humbly inscribed, to the memory
of William and Jane Balderston, of Sedbusk, and to ten of their
children, by their only surviving son, William Balderston." The father
and mother died within six weeks of each other in 1814, and the whole
family of twelve members were stricken down within the short period of
eight years. The touching record is appropriately inscribed :

" We're here to day, to-niorrow yield our breath,
reader, tremble, and prepare for death."

Another stone on the south side of the church may be noted on account
of the figure 7 occurring, singularly, ten times. It is to a family named
Stackhouse. There are also several other epitaphs of interest.

Prior to 1879, when Austwick was constituted a separate parish, with
an area of 7450 acres and a population of 739, the parish of Clapham
consisted of 25,300 acres, and the township of 12,012 acres of land and
25 acres of water. In 1881 the population of the township was 676 and
of the parish 711. In 1810 a considerable area of common land was
enclosed.

I suspect that before the charter for a market at Clapham was conferred
by King John in a.d. 1201, the market had been long held at Austwick,
which at that early period was the principal place in the manor. In the
year mentioned (1201) a grant was made to William de Clapham to
hold a market at Clapham every Thursday, a fair on Saturday before
Quadragesima Sunday and two days following, on that of St. Philip and
St. James and three days following, on the festival of St. Mary Magdalene
and two days following, on the eve of St. Matthew and two days
following. The fairs are now held on Sept. 27th and Oct. 2nd yearly
for cattle and sheep.

On the east bank of the pleasantly tree-shaded beck, opposite the old
Manor House, is a remnant of the ancient Market Cross, comprising a

151

stone base of three tiers with a fragment of the pillar, about two feet
square, upon it. Just above is a narrow stone bridge of high antiquity,
which has been superseded by the erection of the wider and more
substantial county bridge a little lower down. It seems always to have
been known by the name of Broken Bridge, but happily for the peace of
antiquaries there is no reason to suppose that it has ever in anv way
been identified with the name of the place, as appeal's to have been the
case with one so-called at Pontefract. Clapham has always been a hom%
(and a dear one, too !) and has never been known by any other name.

The old Manor House, just mentioned, fell into disrepair many years
ago, and a portion of it was, for some time, used as a stable and lumber-room.
Over its main entrance is carved CWI, 1701, and upon the key-stone
of its spacious fire-place are the initials and date, I C 1701. On each
side of this open chimney-piece, which has a span of W\ feet, is a curious
antique stone-oven. About two years ago (1890) the house was
admirably restored by Mr. Fairer, of Ingleborough Hall, and is now
fitted-up as a reading and recreation room, in which there is suitable
provision for games. There are also meeting and class rooms, a savings
bank, and village library attached. The reading-room with library was
started in 1857, with 100 volumes from the old parish library. It is
maintained by subscription, and its store of books has been largely
augmented, numbering now nearly 2000 volumes.

Among the families connected with Clapham I cannot omit a
mention of that of Faraday, whose name first appears among the
baptisms in the church registers for 1 708. In this year is recorded the
baptism of a child of Richard Faraday, a stonemason of Keasden, near
Clapham. A son of the same Richard Faraday was married in 1756 to
Elizabeth Dean, of Clapham Wood Hall, and James Faraday, of this
family, who worked as a blacksmith at Clapham, was father of the
celebrated Sir Michael Faraday, LL.D., F.R.S., &c, born at Xewington,
in Surrey, in 1791, whither his father had removed shortly after his
marriage. As a prince among British scientists, -Professor Faraday well
earned the approbation and benefactions of his countrymen. His labours
and discoveries were likewise rewarded with many honours from abroad.
Thrioe he received the degree of Doctor ; Oxford making him a D.C.L.,
Prague a Ph.D., and Cambridge an LL.D. ; besides which he was
instituted a Chevalier of the Prussian Order of Merit, a Commander of
the Legion of Honour, and a Knight Commander of the Order of St.
Maurice and St. Lazarus. Among the medals which he received were
each of those at the disposal of the Royal Society, — indeed, the Copley
medal was given him twice, and the Grande Medaille d'Honneur at the
time of the French Exhibition. Altogether it appears he was decorated
with ninety-five titles and marks of merit, including the blue ribbon of

152

science, for in 1844 he was chosen one of the eight foreign associates of
the French Academy. His scientific researches are very numerous.
The Royal Society Catalogue gives under the name of Faraday a list of
158 papers, published in various scientific magazines or learned
transactions. This list includes the 30 series of his "Experimental
Researches in Electricity."* Thus we see this son of the Ciapham
blacksmith risen to dignity and honour, alike creditable to his genius
and industry, and adding, moreover, an imperishable lustre not only to
this retired Yorkshire village whence his family sprung, but to the great
land of his birth !

" Ingleborough," the present manor house at Ciapham, was erected
by the Farrers about a century ago. It is a good, spacious building of
stone, with a handsome arcaded portico of the Corinthian order, and
stands in private grounds of about forty acres in extent. There is a
long, irregular and picturesque lake, covering about eight acres,
beautifully environed with wood, and artificially formed out of a deep
ravine on the east side of the giant Ingleborough. The hall is now
lighted with electricity, the supplying dynamo being obtained from a
water-wheel fixed in the cascades in the grounds.

Among the smaller class of waterfalls nothing can exceed the beauty
of this series of cascades, when a sufficient body of water is precipitated
down the rocky bed. But in flood the increased volume transforms
them into a scene of magnificence almost beyoud credence. In the
grounds above, the torrent leaps in a double fall of 20 feet each into a
confined circular pool, and then firing its mimic artillery, so to speak,
under the picturesque ivy-clad arch, falls with a loud roar some eight or
ten yards further into the stream below. From top to bottom I have seen
it at such times a mass of amber-coloured foam, with not a stone in the
bed visible, the foam-crested rocks causing the spray to rise to the
beautifully draped archway, filling it with a fleecy veil on which the sun
shining has reflected a myriad sparkling hues. It is unfortunate that no
very complete view of it can be obtained from the public road, but the
best is that from the walls of the churchyard or through an opening in
the trees on the road opposite.

In the old coaching times Ciapham was daily (Sundays excepted) the
scene of much bustle and activity, for the Union coach from Kendal
arrived in the village every morning, and at half-past ten was timed to
leave the New Inn for Leeds and London. The Mail from Lancaster
also arrived about ten a.m. and returned at five in the evening.

Concluding this account of Ciapham, I must now turn to the natural
marvels of the neighbourhood.

• See Dr. Gladstone's Life of Faraday.

153

CHAPTER XI.

Ingleborough Cave and Gaping Gill.

Clapdale Castle— The Ingleborough Cave — Its discovery and history— Description
of the interior — Age of the stalactites— Floods in the cave— Extent of the
Excavations— Measurements — Clapdale Pass and Cave— Trow Gill— An extinct
waterfall— Gaping Gill— Flood scene — Descent of the Gill — A wild prospect-
Ascent of Ingleborough.

|IRST let us take a stroll to the famous Ingleborough Cave, —
one of the greatest natural curiosities that our country can
boast, — by way of old Clapdale Castle, previously mentioned.
Application to visit the cave should be made to Harrison,
the guide, who lives near the New Inn, as he is not in attendance at the
cave {\\ miles distant) except on Bank holidays. At the top of the
village is one of the private entrances to Ingleborough Hall, by
which there is also a delightful route to the cave, and the guide has
permission to conduct visitors this way. But those who desire to visit
the grounds only should apply for permission at the steward's house close
by. As much damage has been done, this restriction has been found
necessary, and it is hoped that all having the privilege of visiting this
beautiful demesne will help to preserve what is intended for their own
enjoyment and that of others.

If our route is not through the grounds, or if we are going past the
cave to Trow Gill and Gaping Gill for the ascent of Ingleborough, &c,
we turn from the above entrance gate to the left, and then very soon to
the right up a long, winding lane, which leads in about a mile through
the farm-yard of old Clapdale Hall, or as Dodsworth the seventeenth
century antiquary somewhat pompously describes it, u A great old castle
joyning on Clapham, the antient demesne of the family of Clapham,
who have lived here in good reputation till our fathers' days." It is,
however, nothing more than a small fortified house, formerly roofed with
lend, having walls in some parts six to eight feet thick, raised on a
foundation of natural rock, which is curiously exposed in several places.
As already stated it is supposed to date from the beginning of the twelfth
<#ntury, and to have been built by one of the De Staveleys, from whom
Eoger de Mowbray purchased it, and afterwards {temp. Henry II.)

154

granted it, with the manor, to William de Clapham. I am told there is
an artificial passage extending from the east end of the house a
considerable distance underground. It is said to have been explored for
several hundred yards, but whither it terminates is not known. The
house is now in an indifferent state of repair, and from the time of
Arthur Inglebj has been occupied as a farm dwelling. I may remark,,
in addition to such particulars as I have given of this family, that in
the time of the Commonwealth, and prior to his removal to Lawkland,
the hall was occupied by Columbus Ingleby, who was buried at Clapham
Church, May 15th, 1716. In the Depositions from York Castle
it is recorded of this young squire : "On 4th August, 16G2, an inquest
on Brian Redman, of Ingleton. On August 2nd, Columbus Ingleby,
of Lawkland Hall, gent., shot him with a pistol. Mr. Ingleby was tried
and acquitted, 1667—68." But the circumstances of this accusation
do not transpire.

Leaving the " castle " a path descends to the mouth of the cave. It
forms an open archway 56 feet wide, 15^ feet high, at the foot of an
umbrageous cliff, and from its secluded position has a not unromantic
appearance. The mouth narrows for about twelve yards, where a well-
weathered strong iron grating and gate prevent further progress without
the " open-sesame " key of the guide. The first portion of the cave
extends for nearly 60 yards, is 18 yards wide, and 3 yards in height.
This is denominated the Old Cave, and has been known from the earliest
times, but its bright crystalline ornaments have long ago disappeared.
Nothing was known of the extensive ramifications beyond until 1837, (or
about the same time that the Victoria Cave, near Settle, was discovered)
when a thick barrier or curtain of stalagmite was removed, and the
stream of water which had been observed to flow along one of its sides,
and gave indications of a continuation of the cave, was diverted, and a
deep pool of water behind drained off. The galleries were then explored*
large chambers adorned with sparry wonders, — the growth of centuries, —
revealed ; excavations made, grottoes opened out, fissures, gulfs, and pool&
traversed at no little personal peril, until a distance of nearly one
thousand yards was rendered accessible. The actual penetrable length
of the cavern, however, is about 700 yards. Over this length a path has
been laid and other conveniences constructed for the easy and safe
passage of visitors. The original work of exploration was carried on by
the brothers Mr. James and Mr. Matthew Farrer, along with Lord
Encombe, afterwards Lord Eldon, who was on a visit to Ingleborough
Hall at the time.

The stream which flows through the cave and issues from the rock
beside the main entrance is unmistakably the same as that which falls
into Gaping Gill Hole on the east side of Ingleborough. But the

155

stream does not pursue throughout its course the same direction as it
ouce did, for there is evidence of changes both gradual and sudden, and
of an alteration in level. 41 Along the walls of the cave there is in places
a sort of dado or fringe of tufa running with marked regularity for
longer or shorter distances, and a certain indication of an ancient and
higher water level. Also shelves of glistening stalagmite project from
the same points, upon which rest the pebbly debris ot a previous
water-course. Floods must formerly have ravaged thj cave along
channels that have for ages been deserted, and thus prevented the
accumulation of calcareous deposit in places where it is -now forming.
In recent times boulders many tons in weight have been carried down
into the bed of the cave by the force of extraordinary floods, and many
of these stones at different times have been removed and broken up for
repairing the pathways. At a certain distance in, the temperature of the
cave is never found to vary, whatever may be the intensity of the heat
or cold outside. It has been tested well at all seasons, and found to
maintain a uniform temperature of 48°.

From the mouth, the cavern stretches first to the north, then
north-west, then north and north-east, and finally to the east. Through
most of the route the elevations are such as to admit of persons walking
erect ; in one or two places, however, the height is reduced to about four
or five feet and necessitates stooping. Admirable and commendable
care has been taken of the natural decorations within the cavern, and these
include an innumerable variety of curious and exquisite transparencies,
some having the appearance of half-finished statuary or of wrought
marble or ivory, and bearing more or less resemblance to familiar
objects. The first great chamber we come upon in the new cave is the
" Vestibule," or u Eldon Hall," so called in honour of its first explorer,
Lord Eldon, mentioned above. Hence the rich and fairy-like " Stalactite
Gallery " is entered, and in this the stalactites and encrustations display
a rare and remarkable array of beautiful and fantastic designs. Some of
these have been named from their supposed likeness to different objects.
8uch are the Turkey's Head, Jew's Ear, Fleece, Glacier, Beehive, Belfry,

* " There is a generally received opinion," says Mr. Tiddeman, in the Memoirs
of the Geological Survey. *' that the stream which enters at Gaping Gill is the same
as that which has an exit beneath and sometimes through the Ingleborough Cave.
The ground for determining this is narrowed by the North Craven Fault which
crosses to the S.E. near the head of Clapham Tarn. This forms a barrier of
Silurian rocks crossing the valley, and all springs from the drainage of the valley
above must come out at this (it being impervious to water) if they do not come
out before. No springs of sufficient size to dispose of the water which falls into
Gaping Gill come out at this barrier or above it, if we except the stream coming
out under the cave, and the volume of this in a general way varies with the
quantity of water poured into Gaping Gill."

156

Flitch of Bacon, Jockey Cap, &c. The latter is a singularly-formed

mass of stalagmite, ten feet eight inches in circumference, and its maximum

height is 30 inches. Having been watched, it is calculated to be made

up of the accumulated droppings of 305 years.* The actual measurements,

taken May 6th, 1892, are these :

Inches.

Circumference at the base 128

Circumference at half its height (the peak) 88

Circumference at the crown of the formation 62

Roof to apex of Jockey Cap 86f

Or if measured to the bottom of the indentation, which is

formed by the force of the drip 87

Leaving the wonderful Jockey Cap and proceeding through the
Pillar Hall beyond we see a fine, solid, upright concretion of spar, six
inches thick, which is formed by the junction of a stalactite, or descending
column, and a stalagmite, or ascending one. Still keeping forward, or,
in the words of Robert Story,

" On. on ! the lights pause. Is yon black rock the ending?

No, no ; thou hast farther, and fairer, to view ;
So, follow we must where the elf-lights descending,

Half show a low vault. Don't they burn a bit blue ?
Start not I there's no ghost, I assure you, to fear, sir ;

But 6toop lower yet — if thy head thou wouldst save :
I-ridr sometimes gets checked in his onward career, sir,

And Humility's well in the world, and the Cave."

Now the silvery tones of a small cascade call our attention to the
Waterfall, where a fleecy stream gushes over a rocky canopy, like a
mimic shower-bath, into the abyss :

" What song shall reflect it ? A gem-studded ceiling,
On columns of crystal appearing to lean ;
Sides flashing with brilliants ; the wide floor revealing
A pure water-mirror that doubles the scene."

About a hundred yards further on, passing the Lake to the end of the
Long Gallery, is the First Gothic Arch, and to the right is a huge boss
of stalagmite called the Ladies 1 Cushion. As this immense opening
seems to coincide with a natural rift in the mountain, there is little
doubt that there is a bifurcation of the cave here to the east or south.
As yet this sparry barrier has not been broken through. A fluted
coating of tufa, partly detached from the left wall, emits, when gently
struck, a variety of musical sounds, to which the name Ring of Bells
has been given. Beyond is the long, low aisle called the Cellar Gallery,
and the Second Bells, followed by a number of cross vaults or fissures in
the rock designated Arches. This part of the cave is subject to big

* In 1845 estimated by Phillips at 259 years. f 1° 1845 this Wft8 95 i in*

157

floods, and on several occasions it has been nearly filled with mud and
sand, rendering its clearance a matter of some difficulty. At the end is
the Second Gothic Arch, and the so-called Giant's Hall, a lofty irregular
chamber, reaching upwards above sixty feet. This terminates the
accessible portion of the cave, where it is about 190 feet from the surface
of the earth, but there is on the right side a small orifice which leads
down to a shallow water-course, supposed to continue northwards to
Gaping Gill, from which it is distant, in a straight line, sixty-two chains,
or a little over three-quarters-of-a-mile. With a candle in his cap and a
rope round his body, the late Mr. James Farrer, and subsequently others,
endeavoured to trace this latter portion, but the roof being in places
very low and contracted, and parts of the fissured bed filled with very
deep water, which necessitated swimming, nothing of any note was met
with. Indeed, this extremity of the cavern is apparently only accessible
to the daring and ingenious swimmer.

The following are the ascertained distances of the several parts and
objects in this grand natural abyss :

Yards.

From the Mouth of the cave to the Gate 12

From the Gate to the end of the Old Cave 56|

To the Vestibule, or Eldon Hall 65

The Stalactite Gallery 130

The Pillar Hall 150

The Waterfall 160

X OO XjckCkfj ■•• ••• • ■• •■• ■•■ ••• ••• ••• mmt&

The First Gothic Arch 260

The Ladies* Cushion, a supposed branch here, length unknown.
The Second Bells (Cellar Gallery) 825

A XI fi-lIUr • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • ••• *•• »\J\J

JL Uw Dvja ••• ••• ••• ••• • •• •«• ••• ••• Om\J

The Water Sinks 600

The Second Gothic Arch 6S0

The Giant's Hall 703

Explored, 2 — 800 yards beyond, as explained above.

The visitor will welcome daylight after his long incarceration
underground, and though he has penetrated the rock barely half-a-mile,
he will verily believe, from the time it has occupied, that he has gone
u many a mile." The charge for admission, I may add, is 2s. 6d. for
one or two persons, and Is. each when there are three or nlore.

The return to Clapham may be made by the route described, or if
the tourist is in command of a full day, let him ascend the Clapdale
Pass between the cliffs of beautifully wooded limestone, and along a
luxuriant and velvety, almost park-like path. About £-mile onwards on
the left is another low-mouthed cave, now choked with screes and
herbage, which has at some time or other been the debouchure of a

158

•

water course, no doubt from Gaping Gill. At the gate at the end of the
lane we mount a step-stile, and continue up the same depression a little
way into Trow or Trough Gill (A.S. trug\ a short but magnificent ravine
which will interest the geologist, as well as the lover of wild scenery.
At its lower end it is about one hundred feet wide, narrowing northwards
to a pass of eight feet, while the rocks on either hand, clothed with
conifers and many uncommon shrubs and ferns, rise perpendicularly to
a height of seventy to one hundred feet. There is no doubt that we are
standing here in the bed of an ancient water-course, and looking up the
rocky pass at the top upon what has been once a grand waterfall, now
long extinct. But far back in point of time — thousands of years ago, in
fact — the volume of water which rushed down this gully must, in times
of flood, have presented a very wold and sublime sight. These waters
are now swallowed up by the ever-deepening Gaping Gill, but you can
follow the old bed plainly upwards all the way to this huge pitfall. In
walking up the ravine you can see by its shape what denudation has
done in widening the outlet since the diminution and disappearance of
the stream, which, in the slow process of time, cut its way back up the
gill. At the upper end on the left the cliff shelves into a shallow, open
cave, singularly covered with a deposit of sand and mud, which has been
brought down through the interstices of the thick bed of limestone
Above.

Climbing now out of the top of Trow Gill, follow the wall side up
about 600 yards to a small gate on the left. Many tourists aiming for
Gaping Gill get over the wall too soon, and after a long and fruitless
search, to their chagrin and disappointment, are obliged to give it up.
The country people round about have earned pounds in shewing tourists
the way to this wonderful chasm, and this also applies to many others in
the district. Unfortunately there is no board or special indication of
the site of Gaping Gill, and you may get within a few yards of it, and
jet not be aware of the fact. The spot being unenclosed on the open
moor is highly dangerous, and no attempt should be made to find it after
dusk. We have often thought a sign-board put up here would be of
some help. However, from the little gate above mentioned, you will see
immediately on the left some rocks and a large, incipient " pot," with a
few ash trees hanging over it. Keep this on the left and follow a faint
track over broken limestone, under a low, rushy hill, about 150 yards,
when the traok veers to the right another 200 yards, with the south
spur of Simon Fell in front, and then you come upon the broad turfy
gill carrying the Fell Beck directly into the frightful rift hundreds of
feet down. The water has worn its way through the thick bed of turf to
the rock, and is precipitated on the north side over a " staircase " into a
funnel-shaped chasm eight feet wide and about twenty long. I have

159

visited it daring a violent flood when the lower rocks round the hole
have been filled with water, and the spray has risen from the roaring
cauldron in a wild, boisterous, seething mist. Caution should at all times
be exercised in approaching the lower ledges, as these, even if dry, are
slippery with the continued plash of the water.

The altitude of this wild spot above the sea is about 1880 feet, and
it may be interesting to note here the flourishing condition of the
mountain ash, while the foxglove's purple bells,— a somewhat rare

Gaping Gill Hole.

! on the limestone, — hang close above the brink. The side
opposite to that on which the stream enters is very much broken and
battered with the concussion of rocks brought against it by floods.
Many years ago Mr. Birkbeck, of Settle, made an attempt to descend
the hole, but when he had been lowered to a depth of about one hundred
feet the friction of the rope against the contracted throat of the abyss
was so great that he was obliged to desist, and only managed to reach the
surface after running very great risk. A second attempt was afterwards
made, and at 190 feet down a ledge of rock was encountered which
barred further descent. The chasm was then plumbed 166 feet still
lower, making the total depth from the surface ledge 856 feet, or
measured from the top of the steep bank above the hole 385 feet.

160

Having satisfied the ample cravings of the Gill with a stone or two,
you may with advantage satisfy your own, either in a similar manner
(your appetite being, of course, equal to it !) or by disposing here of
something a little more digestible, to wit, your "pocket-dinner,"
preparatory to the ascent of Ingleborough, — that " huge creature of God,"
as Thomas Gray grandiloquently calls it. But a bedraggled and
impious tourist I once encountered, leaving the north skirt of the
mountain, with the water oozing out of his boots and his hair hanging
like candles, and to whom I explained the above interesting literary fact,
antithetically designated it " that huge creature of the Naughty One !"

On leaving the Gill you steer north-west over the sloping end of Simon.

Fell, taking it at its middle ascent, on to " Little Ingleborough," when

the massive summit of the mountain (2378 feet) will be seen just ahead.

It is a stiff and longish pull, although the vertical ascent from Gaping

Gill is only 1000 feet. . Take an obvious track along the east side of the

fell, which presently bends northward up the side of Ingleborough to its

fiat and spacious top. By this route you traverse a thick and unusual

tract of hill-peat, which in some places covers the flats of limestones, and

has generally been formed in such situations where a sandy and thin drift

has been deposited in the depressions, and doubtless in some instances

being the dried-up beds of ancient tarns. Immense blocks of gritstone

are also found resting on pedestals of limestone, which have been denuded

of superincumbent drift. The botanist should keep a look-out for the

interesting specialities of this route, and on Little Ingleborough he will find

plenty of Parsley Fern. But the botany and the physical structure of

the mountain are fully explained on another page, yet so far as the

former is concerned, I must repeat the desirability of suppressing, rather

than betraying the exact habitats of the rarer kinds of plants, and

especially of the ferns. It is simply shameful the way in which the

" hamper men " and collectors have rooted out the latter, — which are

sold only to perish in the impure atmosphere of towns, — thus robbing
the mountain of one of its great natural charms.

I shall have much to say presently about this rare old hill, which may
be ascended by many and various routes, bringing the tourist in contact,
as I hope to shew, with some of the most interesting phenomena in the
district.

161

CHAPTER XII.

Austwick. The Norber Boulders.

Walk to Austwick — Peculiar examples of " glaciation •' — Former importance cf
Austwick — Old landed families — Austwick Hall — The Church, Cross, &c. —
Some strange tales — Wild flowers — The Holly Fern here yet — Seventy kinds
of ferns collected — The famous Norber boulders — Their history and wonderful
aspects described — Nature's oldest cathedral — Effects of the Ice Age —
Ancient dried-up lakes — Robin Procter's Scar— Lovely view.

0-DAY there is a rich treat in store : a delightful walk, and
just as long or as short, as rough or as easy, as we like to
make it. We intend to go through Austwick to Norber,
and where in England can you match the sight that is presented on the
cliffs of Norber ? It is, as an open-air phenomenon of the operations of
once Arctic Yorkshire, absolutely unrivalled. To the non-geological
mind, also, the scene is hardly less striking. Do not, however, be
misguided that every smoothed or detached stone you see about here is
ice-borne, for denudation of every kind of rock acts often in the most
curious manner. I remember once being in this district when a villager
took me a little out of the way to inspect a large block of limestone. It
was partly embedded in drift and highly polished on one side. " Now,
says he, " that is a fine specimen of your so-called glaciation." " Yes,
I remarked, " but just wait until that young bull comes up." We
instinctively moved aside, and the animal inquisitively drawing nigh and
usurping our places, proceeded to rub himself briskly against the
smoothed end of the boulder. " There," I said, " all the * glaciation '
there is on that stone is bovina /" On another occasion a man at
Austwick shewed me a number of Silurian pebbles from an ounce or two
to several pounds in weight each. They were round and smooth, and
scratched in straight lines. " Scratched by ice !" I at once ejaculated,
on seeing them. " No," said he, " they were taken out of a ploughed
field here, and the marks on them are those of the ploughshare. They
might easily be mistaken for ice-scratchings." Therefore, geological
collectors for museums, &c, had better be on their guard. Good metal
there is in this district undoubtedly, but all is not gold that glitters.

162

Let us for the nonce take the shortest and pleasantest path. Going
round by the New Inn at Clapham there is a stile or gate opposite the
old Market Cross, whence a foot-road runs through the park of
" Ingleborough," and up through a small plantation, over several stiles
of blue-flag and Nbrber " calliard," direct to Austwick, coining out near
Mr. Wm. Handby's house, mentioned below.

The village, though scattered and straggling, is attractively placed
on the sunny side of the valley, and especially when approached from the
south has a very picturesque appearance. On the left the thick woods
rise up along the rugged scars, and the large old Hall stands out
prominently in a verdant opening on the hill side. Away to the right
are the woods beyond Feizor and the romantic little hamlet of Wharfe,
with Wharfe Gill, and the wild, extended hollow that runs to Helwith
Bridge under Moughton to Ribblesdale. Smearside, like the cone of
some worn-out volcano, is conspicuous to the south, and here and there
on the highest points of the scars we see a large limestone cairn reared
against the blue ether. Under the rosy aspects of a fair day the whole
scene is bewitching, and we feel that our first acquaintance with the
s]K)t is, indeed, a case of love at first sight.

Austwick is a very old place, and as it was the head of the honour or
barony, consisting of 12 manors and 12 dependent villages, at the time
of the Conquest, I may here cite the Domesday record.

In Oustewic and Heldetune (Austwick and Eld roth (?)) Clapeham (Clapham)
Cherchebi (Kirkby Lonsdale) Lupetun (Lupton) Prestun (Long Preston) Holme
(Holm) Bortun (Burton) Hotune (Hutton) Wartun (Wharton) Clactun (Claughton)
Catun (Caton). These Torfin had for twelve manors. In these are forty-three
carucates to be taxed.

The place received its name evidently from its position east of
Clapham, and its pre-eminence appears to have been lost after the
formation of the wapentake. The early history of the manor is connected
with the families of Darcy and Yorke. The latter, which has been long
seated at Gowthwaite and Bewerley, purchased the Forest of Nidderdale
in the time of Henry VIII. In the 41st of Elizabeth the manor of
Austwick, for a consideration of £1200, changed hands as appears by
the following Fine.

Plaintiff : Richard Shuttleworth, Kt Deforciants : John Yorke, Esq., and
Juliana his wife, Elizabeth Yorke, widow, and Thomas Yorke, gent, brother of
John. Manor of Austwicke, alt Awstewick, als Astwicke, and 100 messuages and
40 cottages, with lands in the same, and in Wharffe, Eldrothe, Hiemore, Feyserghe,
alx Fesser, Cromoke, Lowkland, Langshawe, Horton, and Birkes.

This was Sir Richard Shuttleworth, of Gawthorp, in Lancashire,
Chief Justice of Chester, in whose family the manor of Austwick
remained until 1782, when it was purchased by James Farrer, Esq., of

163

Clapham. The manor house and demesne, however, were sold by Sir
John Yorke in 1573 to the Inglebys, about the time they acquired
Lawkland. The under-mentioned transactions also took place during
this reign.

A.D. 1579. Plaintiff : John Ingleby. Deforciants : Peter Yorke, E*q., and
Elizabeth, his wife. 6 messuages and 6 cottages with lands and a rental of 20 hens
in Austwicke and Lanshaye, in the parish of Clapham.

A.D. 1580. Plaintiff : John Ingleby. Deforciants : Peter Yorke, Esq., and
Elizabeth, his wife. 4 messuages with lands in Eldrothe, Loneheade, Awstwike,
and Clapham.

a.d. 1597. Plaintiffs : John Browne, sen., Thos. Pick haver, sen., Thos
Pickhaver, jun., John Browne, jun., and William Watson, gent. Deforciants :
Thos. Talbot, Esq., and Elizabeth, his wife. 6 messuages with lands in Pathorne,
Laikeland, ah Lawkeland, and Clapham.

A.D. 1597. Plaintiff : Anthony Watson, gent. Deforciant : Richd. Chew,
gent. 2 messuages with lands in Feazor, Knight Stamford, Astweeke, and
Lai kl and.

The Ingleby family, a party to the two earlier transactions, had
acquired, as stated, Austwick Hall, and lived there many generations.
Sir Chas. Ingleby, Kt., of Austwick Hall, son of John Ingleby, lord of
the manor of Lawkland, and brother of Arthur and Columbus Ingleby,
of Clapdale Hall, previously mentioned, was a Colonel in the army of
Charles Second. He was admitted a member of Gray's Inn in 1663,
barrister-at-law in 1671, and Baron of the Irish Exchequer, 23rd April,
1686, but declined to go to that country. He was in May, 1687, made
a Serjeant-at-law, and on 6th July, 1688, appointed a Baron of the
English Exchequer, and knighted. Sir Charles was superseded by King
James Second in the November following, after being four months in
office, and in 1698 he was practising in York as a barrister, and was
fined 40s. for refusing to take the oath of allegiance. He was born at
Lawkland in Feb., 1644, and buried there on Aug. 5th, 1718.

The Austwick Hall estate, with some others, was bequeathed in 1846
by the late Thomas Clapham, Esq., of Stackhouse, son of the Rev. Wm.
Clapham, Vicar of Giggleswick, to Thomas R. Clapham, Esq., F.R.A.S.,
of Feizor, who is the present occupant of the Hall, and one of the
principal landowners.

The house occupies a dry and airy position on the pleasant escarpment
above the village. It is a building of great antiquity. The entrance
hall appears to have been an old Norman Peel or fortified manor-house,
and is very strongly built, with walls seven to eight feet thick. Additions
were made probably when the Inglebys came into possession of it in
1573 ; the walls of the newer portion being well grouted in the style
prevalent at this period. Formerly the walls were covered with a thick
rough-cast, but in 1863 Mr. Clapham had this entirely removed and the

164

house cemented. This coating of plaster had concealed some portions
of a very fine carved doorway, the mouldings of which had been
ruthlessly destroyed to make way for the lime. The fine old mullioned
window had also been similarly treated. It is interesting to observe that
the north-west corner of the house is partly built on a large glacial block
of Silurian grit.

In May, 1879, Austwick was formed out of the mother parish of
Clapham into a separate parish. The Church of the Epiphany was built
in 1841, and was formerly a chapel of ease to Clapham. In 1883 it was
enlarged and consecrated. It is a neat stone building in the Early
English style, with sittings for about 250 persons. Three beautiful
stain-glass windows, the work of Messrs. Lavers & Westlake, of London,
were put in the east end by public subscription as a memorial of the
Queen's Jubilee. The inscription reads : " To the Glory of (rod, and in
memory of the 50th year of the reign of Queen Victoria, these three
windows are placed by the parishioners of Austwick, 1887." There are
two other windows by the same firm ; one placed in 1889 to the memory
of the late wife of Captain Peters, and the other in the chancel, erected
in 1890 as a memorial of the late Christopher Ingleby, Esq., J.P., of
Lawkland Hall, who was a devoted benefactor of the church, and who
died, as the inscription states, on All Saints' Day, 1889. Both windows
were the outcome of public subscriptions, amounting to about £120.
Among the furniture of the church is a very handsome Communion
table, constructed of oak from Lawkland Wood.

There is in the village a small Wesleyan Clapel built in 1823, a good
mixed school dating from 1842, and a Reading-room with a library of
about 300 volumes. At the junction of the road in the village is the
base, consisting of four tiers, of an old Market Cross. The present stone
pillar was hewn at Austwick, and set up about fifty years ago by Mr.
Charles Ingleby. ' The markets, if they were ever held here, which we
have not been able to discover, have long been discontinued, but a yearly
fair for cattle is still held on the Thursday before Whit Sunday.

Some old traditions still cling about Austwick respecting the peculiar
failings and lack of ordinary intelligence of its inhabitants. It is said,
for example, that once a man was observed to wheel repeatedly an empty
barrow into a hay-loft, and when an explanation was sought, it
transpired that he was wheeling sunshine into the barn to dry the hay
with ! One of the most familiar stories is that of a farmer calling
together nine of his neighbours to assist him in lifting a bull over a
gate, which separated one field from another. After struggling for some
time, a passing traveller, perplexed by the strangeness of the proceedings,
asked them what they wanted to do. " Come and give us a hand," they
cried. " Open the gate and drive him through, can't ye ?" the man

165

replied, and this happy and unthought-of suggestion at once relieved
them of any further trouble. Of course, Austwick now-a-days is not
behind any other village in the dales either in general intelligence or
business aptitude, and yet how strangely will tradition sometimes repeat
itself ! Only within the last twelve months an amusing instance of this
happened. A man, deputed to convey a calf to Clapham, accordingly
yoked a horse and cart, and presently set off at a gentle and safe pace
in the discharge of his errand. On arriving at Clapham, however, he
found to his dismay that he had left the calf behind, so there was
nothing for it but to go back and start again. "Nay, mon," said a
bystander on his return, " thoo's noan left t'cawf behind ; tlwo went
thissen." But the superior individual who made that remark, probably
never in his life made a mistake himself ? Instead of taking a
charitable view of the slight oversight he let him " have it," like the lad
at a Craven fair whom a farmer was trying to engage to assist on the
farm, but would not finish the bargain until he brought a character
from the last place, so he said, " Run and get it, and meet me at the
market cross at five o'clock." The youth returned up to time, and then
the farmer said, " Well, have you got your character with you ?"
u Xa," replied the knowing youngster, " but I've got yours, an' I'm no'
cominV

There is still another ludicrous story we have heard from this district,
and which serves to show how the latest vagaries of town fashion
sometimes penetrate to the remotest country places. A near-sighted
dalesman observing a large bunch of flowers on a chair, and wishing to
preserve them from fading, placed them in a basin of water. When his
wife saw the bouquet half-an-hour afterwards she gave a piercing scream,
and it was only her brave Yorkshire heart that saved her from fainting
on the spot. Her defective-visioned husband had actually mistaken her
new bonnet for a freshly-gathered bouquet !

But, now, let us see where the real flowers are. We will therefore
take a look round the pleasant meads and scars, —

Soft mossy lawns
Beneath these canopies extend their swells,
Fragrant with perfumed herbs, and eyed with blooms
Minute yet beautiful.

Yes, the botanist and true lover, — not the destroyer, — of wild flowers and
ferns will find the district literally overflowing with treasures. The
country round about is very beautiful, and Austwick may well be rising
in favour as a health resort. Many of the houses in the village have
begun to lay themselves out for receiving visitors, and to those needing
rest and complete quiet, with the tonic of pure air and inviting scenery,
the place would be hard to beat. The walks in the vicinity are

166

delightful and varied. To Norber, which I shall presently describe at
length ; to Wharfe Gill, a deep, wooded glen with a bright, bird-haunted
stream and a musical waterfall ; and through Oxenber Wood (about 60
acres), full of long-aisled or winding walks, and romantic peeps amid
darksome crag and forest, which remind one more of scenes in the far-off
Black Forest of Germany than of homely Yorkshire. Fishing in the
becks is also free to those staying in the neighbourhood.

Ferns and flowers, as I have said, brighten the fields, and woods, and
scars. Numerous, indeed, are the species, although many specialities,
especially in ferns, have very markedly disappeared. Not many
years since, several varieties of the Cristate Hart's-tongue were
common on Moughton, but now not a plant can be found. But
within two or three miles of Austwick there still blooms the
beautiful, evergreen Holly Fern (P. lonehitis), one of the most precious
native ferns left in England, being now well-nigh exterminated.
It loves most the high and bleak mountains of Sweden and Norway,
but it has a wide range, nevertheless, although nowhere common,
extending from Iceland and Lapland to Russia, and even southwards to
the cool altitudes of Hungary and Greece. Many people firmly believe
that it is long extinct in Yorkshire, and there has been no little discussion
on the subject within recent years. But I have fronds gathered here in
July, 1891, and there is no mistake about them being the real Holly
Fern, and not any form or variety of angulare or aculeatum, of the
Prickly Shield species. The fronds are five to six inches in length and
one inch broad, the upper pinnae being thickly covered with sort* I
have also seen other fronds gathered recently by natives of the district,
and there can be no question, either, that the plant still flourishes, but
very sparingly, in several localities within this area. They are of the
type common to the mountains of Scandinavia, and are undoubted relics
of the time when there was a land connection between that country and
Britain. It may be also noted that the underlying Silurian rocks of this
home of the fern possess some affinities with the' ancient silts of
Scandinavia. Prof. J. E. Marr, M.A., writing in the Naturalist for
May, 1890, observes : " It is interesting to find an old acid lava at
"Wharfe Mill Dam, near Austwick, for great masses of such lavas were
poured out in the region of the Lakes and North Wales at this time, and
the equivalent shales of the island of Bornholm contain some ashy bands.
The characteristic Trinurleus of these shales in Sweden occurs in

• In verification of the above statement, I have submitted a freshly gathered

specimen to Professor J. G. Baker, F.R.S., F.L.S., of the Royal Herbarium, Kew,

who kindly replies, under date Aug. 8th, 1891 : " This is undoubtedly true

Lonchltis. None of the forms of aculeatum ever shew fructification when the

rond is simply pinnate, and only an inch broad."

167

abundance at Norber, near Settle, where it is accompanied by a beautiful
and rare trilobite of the genus Dindymene, which is also found in
Sweden." He further remarks, in speaking of the Middle Grits and the
subordinate shales of the Wharfe valley, to which the remarkable
Moughton whetstones are probably referable, that " they contain
Mynograptus nitesoni and M. dubius, found on the same horizon in
Scandinavia and marking the base of the Ludlow series."

But neither the Holly Fern, nor the Ordovician fossils of the
Austwick area, are the only existing relics we possess of this country.
Many other plants and mosses, with their parasitical insects, common to
Scandinavia and other northern latitudes still linger, — the undoubted
survivors of a vastly remote period, — amid the pure breezes of our Craven
Highlands. Such, for instance, the little Dryas octopetala, a native of
Sweden and Spitzbergen.

In peeping about the country gardens sometimes you come across a
rare flower or fern, which may have found a congenial home, or haplessly
otherwise, by such removal from its native scars or moorland fells. One
of the most interesting cultivated collections I have met with is that
of Mr. Wm. Handby, of Austwick, who two or three years ago had
nearly 70 kinds of ferns growing in his little garden-plot, and all of his
own gathering from the immediate neighbourhood. As he has carefully
preserved a list of them, and as they are fairly representative of the
native ferns of this district, their enumeration here will be referred to
with interest. Doubtless, were a careful search to be made of the whole
area, the list might be considerably extended.

Polystichum lonchitis (from various localities), P. aculeatum, P.
angulare, var. lineare, var. gracile, var. cristatum, var. proliferum
Wollastoni, var. polydactylum, var. apweforme, Ceterach officinarum (fine
bushy plants from Moughton, Swarth Moor, and Malham), Asplenium
Adiaivtum-niyrum (from Wharfe),^!. viride, var. incisum, A. trichomanes,
A. Ruta-muraria, A. marinum (not local, from Heysham), Lastrea
filix-rnas, var. grandkeps, var. digitata, var. abbreviate var. Jervisii, var.
Barnesii, var. Bollandice, var. crispa, var. incisa, L. filix-fawiina, L.
Thelypteris, L. cristata, L. dilatata, L. amula, L. Oreopteris, Polypodium
vulgare, var. semilacerum, var. cristatum, var. Cambrkum, P. Dryopteris,
P. Phegopteris, Athyrium ftlix-famina, var. corymbiferum, var. laciniatum,
var. thyssanotum, var. Frizellue, var. Barnesii, var. rectangulare, var.
laciniatum-confluens, var. grandkeps, var. ramo-Frizellue, var. diffisso-
multifidum, var. Victoria, Cystopteris fragilis, var. Dklckmna,
Scolopendrium vulgare, var. crispum, var. subcornatum, var. polyschides,
var. polyeuspis-undosum, var. gymnosorum, var. bimarginato-cordatum,
Blechnum spirant, var. polydactyla, var. continuum, Allosorus crispus
(Helwith Moss), Botrychium lunaria.

168

All the species of this remarkable list which their discoverer was
not able to identify himself, have been verified by some competent
authority.

But we must now direct our steps towards Norber, or the North frill,
as its name signifies, above Austwick. Going by the old Hall, before
described, we follow the lane up about three-quarters-of-a-mile to where
the roads divide. Here there is a field on the left, containing numerous
large travelled boulders, which may be profitably examined, and the scar
ascended in front, on the top of which the black-looking, massive
Silurian erratics present a strange contrast with the grey-white broken
limestone on which they rest darkly against the sky. It will, however,
be better to go down past the plantation and follow the Crummack lane
up the dale until near its junction with the White Stone lane, which
crosses the Crummack Beck. Crtvm, in Celtic, I may add, means crooked,
winding, and ach, water, which exactly suits it.

Here you are at the foot of Norber Scars, and close to an old limekiln.
Scores of boulders lie scattered about the valley bottom to the south and
west, but formerly they were much more numerous here than now, large
numbers of them having been broken up to build and repair the walls.
Hundreds, however, remain on the scar above, saved from destruction by
their peculiar and inconvenient position. They lie scattered together,
mostly within a space of a half-mile, and are of every shape and size,
some very curiouslv formed, and perched or stranded on the worn
limestone, or piled one on another in the most fantastic manner. Their
aspect in such a spot is singularly weird and impressive, and in old times
the Nature-worshipping primitive people of this remote mountainous
country must have looked upon the mysterious place with superstitious
feelings.

The question of their origin and occurrence here will be naturally
asked. To the unscientific beholder they will probably be referred to
the displacement of volcanic forces. Some few years ago a couple of
West Riding townsmen visited the spot, and one of them rapturously
exclaimed, " Why, Jim, lad, there's been a tremendous bust, — these stoans
have been blawn sky heigh, an' tummelled abaht intuv all shape an' i' all
directions. But, come, let's squat a bit an' hov a sangwich." As this is
a duty never long absent from the thoughts of a healthy Yorkshireman,
we will leave them to enjoy their meal while we briefly consider the
causes of the wonderful scene around.

It will be observed that the scars and summits are composed of
mountain limestone, while the valley bottom is made up of a massive,
dark, weathered slaty-rock. A branch of the great Craven Fault, as I
have before pointed out, strikes eastward from near Clapham along the
foot of Norber, and Moughton Fell, towards Stainforth and Malham

. 169

Tarn, bringing down the Scar limestone on the south to a level with the
blue flags and grits of the Silurian system, whose effect we see so finely
displayed on the south front of Moughton Fell. The scars which run
about east and west, are the direct result of this remarkable fracture.
The Crummack valley, where we now are, is cut through this Scar
limestone, and has no doubt at some time been an arm of the sea.
Water and the action of the atmosphere have worn down the strata until
some of the lowest beds of the Silurian formation are exposed. The
Coniston limestone, of the Lower group, here forms one of a series of
folds or anticlinals, ranging from the north-west to the south-east, and is
probably continuous with that of Crag Hill, in .Ribblesdale. Above it
lies a thin conglomerate, forming the base of the Upper Silurians,
which dips north-north-east under some slates at the Beck head, but is
•difficult to trace owing to the spreads of drift which occupy the valley,
especially on its west side. Another prominent anticlinal crops out near
the limekiln above mentioned, consisting of a dark bluish-grey thick-
bedded calcareous grit, and is the ridge, undoubtedly, from which most
of the boulders we see around us have been derived. It extends across
the valley, rising somewhat westward, with a rapid dip to the north-east.
Fragments of all sizes torn from this ridge lie in its immediate vicinity,
and the floor of the rock hereabouts is, moreover, so smooth and slipjxjry
that, unless on the alert, you will probably descend to a closer inspection
of its surface than you are prepared for.

No one who has studied the question can doubt for a moment that
this slippery surface is due to the passage of an immense weight of ice.
The glaciers which overspread the north of Britain seem to have been
divided at various points in the passage southwards ; that which came
over Blea Moor having been separated by the projecting buttresses of
Park Fell and Ingleborough, which, again, in descending Ribblesdale,
was broken into two moving thick masses of ice by the towering swells
of Moughton. About 150 yards north of the Silurian out-crop referred
to, there is good evidence of its direction in the deep groovings on the
rock, all pointing directly southwards. Leaving these marks of its
presence the ice gradually retreated, and numerous lakes and tarns were
left in the valleys and on the mountain sides. One such may be observed in
Crummack, adjoining a marl-pit, which is part of the old lake-bed and
is composed of a white, powdery marl made up of fresh-water shells,
chiefly of the genera Limner and Cyclas.

But a peculiar feature of the situation is, that while the parent-ridge
is at present at about 900 feet elevation, most of the blocks from it are
found ascending to an altitude, on the south and west, of nearly 1200
feet. It may be conjectured that these can only have been transported
into such positions by floating icebergs, as is shown to be the case in

170

various places elsewhere. Here, however, the direction of the rocks,
and the position of the principal striae, or ice-markings, all point
unmistakably to a definite horizon and a lower land-surface, which would
not be the case were the blocks sea-borne, for then there would be an
indiscriminate distribution, and the ice-marks would have no relation to
the general slope or lie of the land. The transported grit rocks, it
should moreover be observed, do not occur to the north of the ridge
mentioned. The Crummack glacier has, therefore, undoubtedly descended
towards Clapham into the valleys of the Wenning and Lune, and the
direction of its flow is indicated by the boulders on its course. From
tbe ridge whence the main stream has been obtained they have been

Nokber Boulder.

pushed forward up the slope by the irresistible force of the glacier, which
also raised partly by lateral pressure, has dropped the numerous boulders
on the more elevated limestone bed. Some of the boulders, it will be
noted, have their axes and stria; transverse to the southward movement
of the glacier, which may be due to their having fallen from the ice and
rolled promiscuously on the inclined and polished limestone floor. Since
the time when they were deposited, the limestone plateau has been so far
denuded that some of the blocks, many tons in weight, are now seen
strangely stranded on pedestals or detached masses of the white rock,

171

•

raised from one to two feet above the ground, and which have been partly
protected from disintegration by the superincumbent grits.

The scars also having worn back, many of the stones have been
precipitated into the valley below even within present remembrance. In
fact, many of those which we see obtruding their outlines against the
sky, stand close to the brink of the scars, and must sooner or later come
down. There is one immense boulder, 9 feet long and 9 feet high, and
about 3£ feet wide, which hangs in such a position upon a crumbled
limestone base, and inclined at such an angle, that it looks almost as if a
strong gust of wind would bowl it over the cliff. The largest stone
which I have observed measures 49 feet in circumference and is 6 feet
high, having a flat under-surface, with indications of striae. Many
behind it are curiously perched, and present odd forms. One very
black-looking stone, in shape like a pyramid, is 6 feet high and 6 feet
across the base, and reposes on three small blocks of limestone about a
foot in height. Others sharp, angular, and weathered, and from twenty
to forty tons in weight, stand on similar pedestals, or have fallen and
got partly embedded in the turf. Amid the impressive quietude of the
scene, as we go on surveying these wonderful monuments of the dim
past, we feel, indeed, as if we were walking about the crumbling tombs
and aisles of Nature's oldest cathedral !

Some idea of the time that has elapsed since the deposition of the stones
may be obtained from the extent of denudation of the surface limestone
on which they were originally laid. If, as it has been calculated,
denudation of this rock goes on at the rate of one-twentieth of an inch
in 50 years, or say 1 inch in 1000 years, those rocks standing upon
their worn fragments of limestone 20 inches or so above the adjacent
ground, must have been there, roughly speaking, a period of at least
20,000 years.* But while this is, indeed, a vast period, it is but as the
twinkling of an eye compared with the age of the dark, scattered rocks
themselves. These, in point of time, are certainly the greatest
monuments of antiquity our county possesses.

The boulders gradually thin away to the west and north, and do not
ascend to more than about 1200 feet, consequently we may infer that
the hill, which rises northwards about 100 feet higher, has not been
crowned with ice. Thus a further indication of the southward and
descending movement of the frozen mass is apparent from the fact that
while the rocks on the east of Simon Fell, a few miles to the north, are
ice-scratched at an altitude of 1850 feet, there are no apparent signa
of glaciation at Norber much above 1200 feet.

* Of course, this is only an approximation, as the rate of weathering must
entirely depend on local conditions of subaerial agencies, such as rainfall, &c.

172

From a conspicuous stoop-like piece of limestone at the west end of
the plateau we get a fine outline of the characteristic features of the
surrounding country. Below us, to the south, runs the lovely valley
into Ribblesdale, its deep depression marking the lie of the North Craven
Fault. Above it are the Austwick Woods, Swarth Moor, and the
double-horned top of Smearside. Far away beyond are the Langcliffe
■and Settle crags, backed by the looming summits of Lancashire,
including Pendle Hill. To the north-west a stream of sunlight is
parting the grey clouds that have settled upon the hoary head of mighty
Ingleborough, while westward, looking over the well-wooded upland lake
of Ingleborough park, the view into Lunesdale is exceedingly fine.
Eastward rise the massive grey scars of Moughton, with their dense,
long line of " screes," and beyond, in the point-blank of vision, old
Penyghent just raises his cap to the bonny blue sky above.

About 100 yards west of this limestone stoop we arrive at the edge
of Robin Procter's Scar. This immense bluff of white rock, I may say,
has borne its name now some centuries. A certain Robin Procter, of
Clapham, was making his way home along the " tops " from Selside, and
the evening being stormy and darkness coming on, he missed his way
and fell over the precipitous cliff here and was killed. His burial is
recorded in Latin in the Clapham parish registers. It may also be
noted that the first baptismal entry contained in these registers is in
the year 1595, and is of one " Robertus filius Robertus Procter," an
ancestor, probably, of the above.

From the edge of Robin Procter's Scar we look down into a hollow,
somewhat oval in shape and walled round. This basin-like cavity,
which is strewn with Silurian blocks, is the bed of an old lake, drained
about eighty years ago. The gently sloping banks are dry and cracked,
and in appearance not unlike the venation of a leaf on a large scale.
The grass and soil look brown and poor, but I am told these have much
improved of late years. The place is still known as Tarn Thwaite.
Formerly in winter, when the lake was soon frozen, the youth of
Austwick and Clapham used to come here at the close of the day's
labours, and often under the bright rays of the moon,

— " All shod with steel
They hiss'd along the polish'd ice, in games
Confederate, imitative of the chase
And woodland pleasures, —
Or cut across the image of a star
That gleam'd upon the ice."

From this point the village of Clapham can be reached in about 45
minutes by descending into the Thwaite Lane opposite, which goes
straight down under the tunnel of Ingleborough grounds and emerges at
the church and waterfall.

173

CHAPTER XIII.

Cave Hunting on Ingleborough.

A land of caves, gulfs, and swallow-holes — Their origin and aspects scientifically
explained — Cave hunting on Ingleborough— A wild tramp — Long Kin holes
and cave — Marble Pot — Juniper Gulf — Simon Fell Caves— Alum Pot- Ascent
of Simon Fell — The Druids — An ancient forest — Local place names.

HE plateaux of carboniferous limestone, and " winding scars ,r
of our dales are famous for an infinitude of caves, caverns,
holes, churns, kins, gulfs, pots, pans, or swallow-holes, as they
are variously called, and which, while they are generally spread over
Craven, are nowhere exceeded in number and interest than in the
neighbourhood of Ingleborough. Their origin may be due in some cases
to igneous movement, but the great factor in their formation has been
water, operating in a variety of ways. These causes have been thus
shortly summarised by Prof. Tiddeman in the Memoirs of the Geological
Survey :

1st. The large horizontal flats of bare limestone which give the

water every chance of finding an entrance.
2nd. The numerous vertical and long continuous joints which so

easily lend themselves to water-carriage.
3rd. The rarity of beds of shale or other alternations in the great
body of the limestone, which would tend to check the free
passage of water.
4th. The rapid descent of the ground beyond the limestone plateaux,
which gives steep gradients to the water-flow in the limestone.
5th. The height of the Fells above, which form condensers to
atmospheric vapour and give a rainfall above the average.

As Prof. Boyd Dawkins well observes, nowhere in the world can the
subterranean circulation of water be studied with greater advantage
than here. The caves, he says, rival in size those of Carniola and in
Greece, and are to be found in all stages of formation. But a good part of
Yorkshire geography is really unwritten, for there is so much concealed
underground, that this branch of our knowledge can never be considered
as complete until these various and complicated water-courses are known

174

and mapped out. The subject, indeed, is peculiarly fascinating, while the
rills and streams of the Yorkshire Scar country, with their long,
subterranean passages, will provide the explorer, armed with rope and
lights, with an amount of real adventure, and likewise tax his geographical
skill in a similar, if less perilous manner, to that for example, of the
" pioneer of civilisation " who, with tomahawk and gun sets himself
the task of penetrating the dark, untrodden regions of far-off Africa !

Let us then go up into the heart of the hills, where there are a
number of these mysterious chasms, but little known and rarely visited.
Our route is that described at the end of the last chapter, by Clapham
Bottoms, passing the church and under the long tunnels, ascending the
road about three-quarters-of-a-mile, when it branches to Austwick by the
extinct lake previously mentioned. But you should open the gate here,
and keep straight on, descending across the depression of the Craven
Fault, with the fine scars in front, and on the left, the deep, contracted
wooded valley of Clapdale, with the mouth of the great Ingleborough
Cave conspicuous, and old Clapdale Hall high above. This scene, viewed
under the warm glow of a bright Autumn noon, amid the various tints
of the trees, and the decaying brackens and shrubs upon the scars,
reminds us not a little of Shelley's lines :

The noonday Bun
Now shone upon the forest, one vast mass
Of mingling shade, whose brown magnificence
A narrow vale embosoms.

Passing shortly through a second gate, or rather the third from
Clapham, you emerge on the wild open fell, with the wooded Trow Gill
some distance on the left. The long lane we have come up runs about
north-east by south-west, and by crossing the hollow northwards from
here, and then walking up with the gully on our right, we shall arrive at
a gate in the wall which crosses our route. Simon Fell (2125 feet) and
Ingleborough (2373 feet) are now to the north-west, and the isolated
bulk of Penyghent (2273 feet) to the east. This wall is continuous
northwards with another, which separates the west fell from the large
allotments on the east, and runs all the way up the south slope of Simon
Fell. By following this long allotment wall up some 300 to 400 yards,
you enter a hollow of bare limestone, on the left of which are two deep
rifts known as the Long Kin Holes. The deepest is that to the north,
but the summit aperture is insignificant, and partly enclosed with a
tumble-down wall. A small stream descends the hole from Simon Fell,
and flowing at a considerable depth penetrates the lower chasm, whence
its course is not clear. The direction, however, is towards the Gaping
Gill beck and Ingleborough Cave, but, except in flood the channel is
almost dry. No attempt has been made to descend these fissures, as

175

they are too narrow for some distance down to admit of a free passage.
The northern one has been plumbed to a depth of over 200 feet, while
the southern one, which is more open and longer, does not appear
anything like so deep, the greatest depth found being little more than
100 feet. The sides of the chasms are adorned with shrubs and ferns,
and some fine flowering specimens of the great willow-herb. The altitude
is about 1350 feet.

Following up this limestone hollow we arrive very soon at a point
where the stream, having cut through the thick turf to the rock below,
has in the lapse of ages worn away this hard bed for a length of nearly
50 feet, and two or three feet wide. The torrent goes down by a succession
of ledges into the Long Kin Cave at its lower extremity, where the
horizontal limestone above forms a portal about four yards high and
barely one in width. To penetrate this chasm requires caution, as the
descent in some places is very rough and rapid, and should not be
attempted except in settled weather, as a sudden rising in the water on
the fell above would speedily submerge the cave, and the tourist so
caught by the " tide " would find escape well nigh impossible. Soon
after getting in, it brandies suddenly to the left, and the cave then by a
succession of bends and low chambers, may be penetrated for a distance
of nearly 250 yards. At one part of its course daylight is seen through
a chink above.

A little to the north-west of the cave, and close under the allotment
wall mentioned, is Marble Pot, so called from the fine polish of the rock
out of which it is formed. This is a very deep and astounding chasm,
and viewed during a flood is an impressive sight. It descends about
30 yards, carrying the water to the mouth of a hole nearly 50 feet in
depth, over which the torrent leaps in one unbroken cascade. Ordinarily
the flow of water is only small, but in wet weather the rush and roar is
tremendous, and the " pot " has been known to fill up and even
boil over.

About half-a-mile to the north-east of this cavity is another grand
natural rift in the mountain, called Juniper Gulf. Do not approach too
near this terrible fissure, as the rocks, especially after rain, are very
slippery. The juniper, which grows upon its brink, means, we are told
in the language of flowers, succour or help, and you would certainly need
it in case of any untoward accident. The water descends the contracted
chasm a vertical depth of about 80 feet, and must then fall more or less
rapidly to the south, perhaps joining the underground stream of Long
Kin. By following the wall up here on the right you will come to another
larger stream which flows east to a small cave in the rock some six or
seven yards below the surface of the moor, and half-a-mile due north of
this cave is another smaller opening in the limestone.

176

About a mile north of this poiut the grandest and most stupendous,
of all the Yorkshire ground-chasms may be reached. This is Helln or
Alum Pot, which is described elsewhere. You will have to cross the
heathery waste, and at the end of the long wall, and then very soon pass,
through another smaller gate on the left, and by another wall, skirting
the thick limestone pavement, beyond which the site of Alum Pot may
be recognised by the clump of trees, and short dipping wall which
encloses it.

The tourist who wishes to see Gaping Gill on this outing, may from
the gate at the top of Clapham Bottoms, before mentioned, without
going through the gate follow the w r all side westward about 600 yards,
in the direction of Trow Gill. He will then come to the small gate and
track which leads to the great rift, described on page 159. From
Gaping Gill the Long Kin Holes and Cave, I may add, are about 1000
yards due east, and just over the allotment wall which runs to the
top of Simon Fell.*

Simon Fell may be conveniently ascended from any of these formidable
rifts, and the ridge followed up to the gusty top of Ingleborough, whence
a descent may be made to Ingleton, in time for the evening train north
or south. To return to Clapham the tourist may vary the route above
described, by going from Gaping Gill through the ravine of Trow Gill
and past the mouth of the Cave direct to the village.

In the name of Simon Fell we have another instance of what I take
to be an indication of the former presence of the Simon Magi, or ancient
priests of the Britons, an interesting survival of the rites of the
primitive inhabitants of these Highlands, more fully discussed elsewhere.
Ingleborough, above, constituting one of the finest natural observatories
in the whole country, would, we may be sure, be seized upon by the
earliest migrant races, as an invaluable and permanent prospecting
ground, and that such was the case is evident from the numerous remains
of habitations still existing on and about its summit. Facing the east
was Simon Fell, encompassed by extensive natural woods, a fact which
may startle the imagination of the beholder at this day, considering the-
wide bleak and barren wastes which the mountain now dominates. But
the names of the places in the vicinity declare this to have been the case ;
thus Brant Riggs, or ridges from which wood has been cleared by

* In the Gentleman's Magazine, for the year 1761, (Vol. xxxi, p. 127), a writer
signing himself " Pastor," names several caves and holes on Ingleborough, which
I am unable to identify. These are Blackside Cave, Sir William's Cove, (copied
from this account into Gough's " Camden " (Vol. iii, p. 282, as St. William's Cave).
Atkinson's Cave, and Johnsons Jacket Hole. The last is described as " a place-
resembling a funnel in shape, but vastly deep." Gaper Gill, also mentioned, is no*
doubt what is always called now Gaping Gill.

177

burning ;* Selside, from Set, a wood, and side, a settlement ; Borrins,
from bor, a wood, and rin, a promontory or point, the latter an affix in
various combinations of rin, rein, or rain, which is of frequent occurrence
in Craven. Thus there is a headland and building about a mile north
of Selside Shaw called Reyn Barn, and there are also other high points
and promontories elsewhere mentioned in our rambles, of the same
name.

The numerous copious streams, and a fine spring on the edge of the
hill, along with these forest groves, would provide the tribes with
abundant material, both for their bodily maintenance and for the
performance of their sacred rites. There is little doubt, also, that the
sites of their burial placeB were marked by heaps of stones or cairns,
long since removed for building the adjoining walls. In the
neighbourhood of the Long Kin Holes, however, traces of several cairns
still remain, and there are also traces of others in the valley bottom at
the foot of the mountain. There was a particularly large one close to
the east side of the road to Selside, about a mile above Horton Station,
which has disappeared, I am told, within living memory. We have no
proper account of it, but it was doubtless ransacked and removed in the
expectation of finding treasure. It is mentioned by the same clerical
writer, quoted ou the last page, in the Gentleman's Magazine, for 1761,
as follows : " In the valley above Horton, near the base of this mountain,
[Ingleborough] , I observed a large heap or pile of greet-stoues all
thrown promiscuously together, without any appearance of building or
workmanship, which yet cannot be reasonably thought to be the work of
Nature. Few stones are found near it, though 'tis computed to contain
400 of that country cart loads of stones, or upwards. There is likewise
another at the base north-east, in resemblance much the same, but scarce
so large, and I was informed of several others up and down the country."

The large cairn referred to may have been raised to commemorate some
dire conflict between the Romans and the native hill tribes, as it lay on
the old Roman thoroughfare across Ribblehead to the camp under
Smearside. There appear to have been a good many cairns and tumuli
about these summit tracts, where " surprises " may be exacted to have
occurred more commonly than elsewhere.

* Brant has also the meaning of steep.

178

CHAPTER XIV.

Clapham tO Ingleton.

The old road from Clapham to Ingleton — Newby and Furness Abbey — Local
properties of the Abbey— Deer park at Ribblehead — Newby Cote — Ascent of
the Scars — Caves and pot-holes — A tremendous abyss — The Craven Fault —
Rantry Hole— Cold Cotes— The Tow Scar Fault— High Leys and Holly Plat
House — Glorious prospect— Yarlsber and the Danish Camp — Ease Gill Glen
and Waterfall — Beautiful scenery, geologically explained.

HE very pleasant four miles of highway which separate

Clapham from Ingleton are best traversed by the pedestrian

along the higher or old coach road by Newby Cote. It

commands lovely prospects to the southwards, and also affords,

from a geological standpoint, a better idea than is to be obtained from

the lower road, of the effects of the complicated system of Faults, which

give to the neighbourhood its marked features.

About a mile from Clapham, on the lower road, is the quiet little
village of Newby, which, although it is not mentioned in Domesday, is a
very old place, and the capital of an extensive manor. It was originally
divided into two parts, both of which were acquired at an early date by the
monks of Furness, who in all probability had a grange and chapel here.
At the dissolution of monasteries, the manor was annexed to the Duchy
of Lancaster, and after having passed through various hands, was
purchased about a century ago by the Farrers of Clapham. The various
properties of the wealthy Abbey of Furness are recorded in the Liber
Reyis of 26th Henry VIII., and from these " First Fruits " of the
appropriation the following noteworthy transcript may here be introduced.
The list is interesting, as including the names of many local places, now
supporting but a scant population, and situated amid the very wildest
and most remote parts of these rugged Highlands. Such for example,
are Cam House, Ling Gill, Thornes Gill, Rainscar, and Gearstones, —
while in the neighbourhood of Ribblehead, comprised within this ancient
survey, were large deer and horse parks. The enumeration is an exact
copy of the original :

Redd'et firm is in Lonsdall, viz.: Kesden £10 12s. 4d.. Thynook et Hardacre
£2 9s. 0d.„ Hesyllhawe et Greynclose £3 6s. 8d., Villa de Newby £6 5s. lid.,
Newby Coote £4 Is. 7d. ob\ Claypham Towne £2 7s. 0d., Stakhouse £5 6s. 8d M
Selffed £13 Ss. 4d., Southouse £8 2s. 8d., Souterstale £13 6b. 8d., Brunt Skarre

179

£8 6b. 8d., Wynteretayll £8 Os. Od., Raneskall £2 8b. Od. t Camhouse £8 Ss. 4d.,
Lynghyll et Byrkw'th £6 19s. Od., Netherlonge £3 18s. 8d., Thorns £2 10b. 4d. ob',
Beerstons et Coltepke £6 9s. 2d., et Yngman Lodge £6 6s. 8d. In toto £1 10 18b. 4d.

The manor house at Newby (now a farm-house), called Newby Hall,
is an ancient stone gabled building of fine proportions, and containing
on the ground floor two beautifully arched doorways. There appears to
have been a chapel in the hall, for the arrangements of two of the upper
rooms are such as to warrant the assumption. A decorated window
occupies the south-east corner of this part of the building, and the roofs
of both apartments, now unfortunately covered in, are constructed of
old carved oak.

From Newby Cote the ascent of Ingleborough is less of a climb, and
also shorter in point of distance, than from Ingle ton or Clapham. Go
up the wall side by the houses, and when on the top, by keeping slightly
to the right, the Knowe Gap stream will be encountered coming down
from the north under Ingleborough. The stream is a good guide to the
summit, which can be seen due north ahead. Or, if the tourist wants a
fine open walk over the breezy fell, without going to the top of the
mountain, let him strike north-west when at the top of the scar on going
from Newby Cote, and in less than a mile he will discover a number of
interesting deep rifts or shakeholes in the limestone plateau. They are
mostly within an area of a half-mile, and the nearest of them is about
midway between Newby Cote and the house and plantation of Crina
Bottom, which can be seen a long way off in the same direction under
Ingleborough. Their names, wjiich indicate some physical or other
characteristic, are in the order of succession, Raspberry Pot, Fluted
Hole, Pillar Hole, Long Kin West, Rosebay Pot, Fern Pot, Moss Hole,
Mud-foot Hole, and Cave Pot. Most of them, while only narrow and
unimposing on the surface, having the appearance of mere rifts or cracks
caused by earthquakes, are of prodigious depth. In fact it is impossible to
ascertain the real depth of some of them owing to the projections of rock
and the contracted nature of the fissures. Lying adjacent and parallel to
the Craven Fault it is not improbable that their initial origin may be
due to that great displacement, as little or no water is apparent in several
of the holes. The Pillar Hole is so narrow that it can be stridden, and
its approximate depth is 150 feet. The Long Kin Hole West, so called to
distinguish it from one of like name, already described, east of Gaping
Gill, is likewise a narrow but tremendous abyss, shaped on the surface
like a letter L, and sometimes in consequence called the L. Hole. It has
been plumbed to a depth of nearly 300 feet but this cannot with certainty
be declared to be the full depth.

Little more than half a mile east from Crina Bottom, and just to
the north of the above shakeholes is another, which in the absence of a

180

name Mr. Balderston has christened with the somewhat alarming
appellation of the Boggart's Roaring Hole. He says that on throwing
stones into it they appeared to go much further than the line, with a
peculiar clatter that began to creep upwards, " something between a roar
and growl," a resentful tone that may be supposed to belong to the
presiding genius of this dark and unexplored cavern. Its depth from
the ground is said to be 145 feet.

We are here at an elevation of about 1,400 feet, and by going
westwards half-a-mile the Jenkin beck may be crossed at a point where it
is swallowed up by a cavity in its rocky bed called Rantry Hole. Along
the course of the lxsck are other swallow-holes, which engulf, or are
submerged by the stream, according to its supply. Near Crina Bottom,
opposite, is another long and deep fissure, not yet oj)ened out, but
running water can be heard beneath, and stones thrown into it rebound
with a jingling noise, apparently to a considerable depth. From Crina
Bottom there is a cart-lane down to Ingleton, (l£ miles).

But to resume our walk along the road to Ingleton from Newby Cote.
In about a mile we cross the anticlinal of the Tow Scar Fault, and observe
on our left the little hamlet of Cold Cotes, occupying the shallow valley
caused by the westward downthrow of the faulted strata. The Tow
Scar Fault, which is in reality the Mid Craven Fault, rises to the south-
west of Graygarth, along the southern abutment of Hunt's Cross, crossing
the Twiss and Doe, just above the Catleap Fall, and continuing in a
south-easterly direction by Ease Grill and Slatingber, bringing up the
Mountain Limestone against the shales overlying the Coniston Limestone.
It is visible for the most part in an anticlinal ridge, the folds of the
rock, however, which are largely obscured by drift, being only apparent
at the base. At Cold Cotes, the Upper Coal Measures are brought up
against the limestone,- and outcrops of coal may be seen in the Warth
field, l)et\veen Cold Cotes and Greenwood Leghe, and also at other points
nearer Ingleton. Here apjwsitely may be introduced details of a section
of the coal-measures as exhibited in a gill near Yarlsl>er, (from the
Government Survey Memoirs) :

Sandstone ... ... ... ...

Plav

W I €mj • • • ••• • * • •»■ «•■ ••• ■••

L/Oftl "SlIlllL »■• ••• •■« • • » ••• •••

Sandstone, rather hard ...

Soft grey and purple shales, with reddle ...

«« f < | llc»r*lGr • • • >•■ • • •

nBuUSlunv ••• *•■ ••• •«• ••• •••

Red and white speckled soft sandstone (thickness unknown).
Here comes a fault running N. 30° W. with quartz-pebbles in it.
Fine light-blue clay well bedded, with plant-remains.
Coal, good

•^CH»"L lfl\ • • • «■• • « * ••• ••• ••• * • • •••

Grey " soapstone * with small ferruginous irregular nodules. .

Ft.

In.

181

On the hill side upon the line of this fault we see the farm-house
called High Leys, and on Gray Scar, half-a-mile behind the house are the
deep and mysterious gulfs and cracks in the mountain above described.
We now pass an old dwelling called Holly or Holy Plat House, which
has a curious, projecting porch with stout stone pillars. When the Leeds
and Kendal and Lancaster mail coaches travelled this road it was a
well-known wayside inn. I have mentioned this road at the end of
chapter ix.

There is an enchanting prospect of the wooded vale of Lune from
this elevated point. The spreading village of Ingleton occupies a
beautiful position on the edge of the fells, and sheltered from the north
by the white scars of Twisleton and Graygarth, which tower away behind.
Westward, the graceful spire of Burton-iu-Lonsdale church rises alwve the
fertile landscape, while the large and beautiful mansion lately built
by Alfred S. Kirk, Esq., at Rareber, is a conspicuous object in the
foreground.

Enjoying this lovely prosj)ect we descend past the Slatingl>er farm
and Yarlsber, when the road dips across the bridge over the Jenkin beck
above mentioned. The tourist should turn aside here and view the
romantic scenery of this attractive little glen. By following the stream
up half-a-mile he will arrive at the fine waterfall of Ease Gill. The
sloping pastures are strewn with the mealy, little pink primrose, fragrant
orchis, pretty star-like sandwort, blue-flowered butterw T ort, and milkwort,
and many another floral gem.

The geologist also will find as much to interest him in this beck
course as, perhaps, anywhere in the neighbourhood. From the bridge
upwards the stream is crossed by numerous faults, running transversely
to the course of the water, and disclosing by the position of the opposed
strata a prodigious downthrow to the south and west. In ascending the
beck we approach on the west side a mass of crumbly shale, and near it
a bed of sandstone (apparently of the Yoredale series) while on the
opposite or east side are the Silurian rocks, indicating a total resultant
downthrow of at least 600 feet. The Coniston Limestone, detached here,
consists of calcareous shale, with concretionary blue limestone-bands
which turn to rotten stone on weathering. The beds dip S.S.E. nearly,
at angles of from 50° to 80°. A short distance to the eastward they
pass under the Carboniferous Limestone, and on the west are bounded by
the same fault which cuts off the Coniston Limestone in Ingleton and
Thornton becks.*

On the south-east side of Ease Gill Wood, or about 600 yards north-
east of the present house at Yarlsber, there is a circular camp, about

*See the Memoirs of the (ieologival Society (1890).

182

90 yards in diameter, and surrounded with the remains of a foss and
vallum, which measures at the top nine yards across. It is marked on
the Ordnance Survey maps as supposed Roman, but its form and position
are distinctly Danish, albeit its configuration, being irregularly circular,
and adapted to the nature of the ground, is no objection to the Roman
plan of castramentation. Yet its outline, so readily conforming to
Danish ideas, and the numerous places hereabouts of Danish derivation,
point to such an origin ; Tarlsber, for example, meaning the seat of
government, literally the hill of the earl, from which we may suppose
that this particular camp was the headquarters of some Danish general,
in command of properly-organised forces, and very different from the
scattered bands of pirates who for a long period previously had plundered
in an erratic manner the coast and estuary districts of Yorkshire. But
this we shall refer to again in our history of Ingleton. There appear to
have been outposts all round Ingleborough, for the summit of this noble
mountain, from a strategical standpoint, was, indeed, a " crown " worth
fighting for, and many a struggle must there have been to obtain
possession of it, and as some confirmation of the fact, cairns, tumuli,
and other pre-historic objects, have been unusually numerous in its
vicinity. There is a large rocky mound, rather suggestive of an
entrenched tumulus on the south-west side of the camp just described.

The Ease Gill Force (Gadhelic, eas, a waterfall) is formed by the
dislocation of the above Tow Scar Fault. It occupies a secluded angle
of the stream, while the wet rocks, canopied with luxuriant foliage, rise to
a height of nearly 50 feet, and as completely environ the area of the
fall as the walls of a hermit's cell. Rich mosses, and various ferns and
flowers clothe the pendant steeps, while sometimes may be seen disported
upon them the gaudy wings of some rare moth or large and curious
dragon-fly. The water plunges from a height of 27 feet, under a natural
bridge of rock having a span of 12 feet, and falls with tumultuous roar
into a confined pool beneath. The tourist may ascend the plantation
beside the fall, and come down to this mossy rock-bridge, which, at its
broadest end, is about four feet wide, and whence, looking down the
tree-shaded defile, he can just see the far-off purple heights of Burn
Moor. Should he desire to ascend Ingleborough from the fall, he must
follow the beck upwards, which is a good guide to Crina Bottom, (1 mile),
and the conspicuous summit which is li miles further. . This is a
grand and not much frequented route.

188

CHAPTER XV.

Ovbb the Moors to Bentham.

Walks between Clapham and Bentham — Newby Moor — Bolland Moor — Mewith
Head — Clapham Wood Hall and the Farad ays— The Glasites — Eeasden — Lumb
Falls — Queen of Fairies Chair — A tramp over Burn Moor — Four Stones, &c.

|T is five or six miles from Clapham to Bentham, and by
increasing this distance more or less, some very interesting
walks are discoverable. The most direct way is along the
high side of the station, and by a good road over Newby
Moor to High Bentham ; or by Linghaw Cross, (600 feet), whence there
is a very fine view ; or from this same road, after passing the first
farmhouse on leaving the station, cross the railway bridge and descend
to Hazel Farm to the Wenning side, whence a path runs through
Waterscale Wood and by the Cave, hereafter mentioned, to Bentham.
But this is a route that is not much traversed, and in places it is rough
and somewhat difficult to trace. A better way is to descend from
Clapham station over the Wenning bridge, and up the road as far as
Wickworth Farm (half-mile) whence to the right by a path to Clapham
Woods Farm, (not Clapham Wood Hall), and so by the fields and a
pleasant road to Bentham.

The road by Clapham Wood Hall ascends the open Bolland Moor
road as far as the cross-roads near Turnerford, (1 J miles), and then turns
to the right, crossing the picturesque Keasden Gill beck, and traversing
at Mewith Head about a half-mile of unenclosed moorland, whence the
walk is along pleasant flowery lanes, three miles to Bentham. This is a
nice out, but it is fully six miles from Clapham station. Clapham Wood
Hall has been already mentioned as the old home of the Faradays, from
whom sprung the celebrated scientist, Sir Michael Faraday, D.C.L.,
F.R.8., &c. His father, the blacksmith, lived here before his removal
to London, in 1790, and there were also other members of the family,
occupying humble positions in life, resident in the neighbourhood. One
of these was a Richard Faraday, stonemason, at Keasden. The family
belonged to a little religious community called the Glasites, and
subsequently better known as the Sandemanians, which worshipped in a
small building at Wenning Side, and to this pious set the learned and
worthy Professor always gave his warmest sympathies and support,
and retained his adhesion to this body throughout his life.

184

A capital trip is to ascend the Bolland Moor road as far as the above
little village of Keasden, 2£ miles from Clapham station ; the spire of
the neat little church rising prominently from the high land (770 feet)
above the romantic Keasden Gill. The building, which will accommodate
about 100 persons, is a chapel-of-ease to Clapham, and was erected in
1873, at the sole cost of the late James Farrer, Esq., J.P., of Ingleborough,
the lord of the manor. The deep gill, down which the foaming hill
beck leaps in a succession of small cascades, is well wooded, and at one
point of its course, called the Lumb Falls, the stream is precipitated
with considerable vehemence into a dark and deep pool, and when swollen
with rains is a particularly impressive sight.

After viewing this romantic spot, and on crossing near the head
of the gill, aud striking due west up the fell, in about a mile the stone
fence which forms the dividing line between Yorkshire and Lancashire,
will be reached. Following it a short distance a conspicuous group
of rocks will be observed at the summit (1,320 feet), one of which has
an artificial opening, and is called " Queen of the Fairies Chair." Here on
bright moonlight nights, say the believing dalesfolk, the airy sprites of
Burn Moor used to hold festive revel. All along this boundary ridge are
other huge boulders or collections of stones known by such names as the
" Standard of Burnmoor," " Long Grain Beacon," " Raven Castle,"
*' Cat Stones," and the " Cross of Greet." The latter is a large gritstone
pillar on the pass into the Forest of Bolland, about five miles north of
Slaidburn.

By continuing along the same ridge from Queen of Fairies Chair, some
two miles east the great boulder stone of Four Stones will be arrived at,
a prominent land-mark for miles round, which is described in the next
chapter. This enormous stone is two miles south of Bentham, and the
fell can be descended to the village, crossing the Wenning at Low
Bentham, near the mills.

185

CHAPTER XVI.

Bentham.

Bentham — Roman and Saxon remains - The church in Domesday — Ancient
families — History of the manor - Gibson'* Green and Dr. John Gibson —
Curious will— Stones fired by the Scots — A model church—Some rare relics —
Fine old bell — A watch-tower in the Wars of the Roses — Bentham Registers —
Burial in woollen — List of Rectors — Public institutions — Old Grammar
School— Fox, the Quaker, at Bentham — Trade tokens — Ancient market-cross —
The Black Hole — " Tweed Dobbie " and Barguest — Beautiful scenery — Four
Stones. — Waterscale Wood and Cave.

HE ancient and attractive village, or rather villages of High
and Low Bentham (which are about a mile apart) lie just
within the Yorkshire border, being separated on the south
side from the county of Lancaster by the little Kirk Beck
which forms a picturesque waterfall opposite the rectory, and flows into
the Wenning near the church. While the neighbouring and extensive
parishes of Giggleswick and Horton - in - Ribblesdale are, as elsewhere
stated, within the Deanery of Craven, the parishes of Bentham, Ingleton,
and Clapham form part of the Deanery of Lonsdale, yet all are comprised,
for civil purposes, within the division of Ewecross.

Of the antiquity of Bentham, and of its importance in mediaeval
times, the record in Domesday (a.d. 1086) affords ample testimony. Its
handsome church is one of the few in this part of England mentioned
in that celebrated ancient survey. The following is the abstract :

IV. Manors. In Benetain (Bentham) Wininctune (Wennington) Tathaim
(Tatham) Fareltun (Farlton) Tunestalle (Tunstall) Chetel had four manors, and
there are in them eighteen carucates to be taxed, and three churches.

The fact that there were three churches of value, viz. : Bentham,
Tatham, and Tunstall, and 1 8 geldable carucates, or probably 2000 acres,
proves that the district must have been in a very advanced and profitable
state of cultivation at that early period. It is, indeed, almost certain
that the favoured and fertile lands about Bentham, watered by the
pleasant Wenning, which abounded in fish, were ever since the Roman
occupition the centre and home of an active agricultural class. Moreover
the Roman military road from Colne and Ribchester passed through the
village towards Overborough and Casterton, and it is also probable that

186

from its position near the north road over Cam Fell to Ingleton and
Lancaster, that here was a mansions, or one of the divertoria of the
passing legions. A few remaining yards of the Roman road may be
traced near West End Farm, on the opposite side of the railway from the
rectory. The greater part of the road has, however, been broken np.

We have seen that at the time of the Norman survey the four manors
belonged to one, Chetel ; the first great local Saxon proprietor being
apparently one, Benet, a personal name, in its various modifications,
transmitted to the present time. The suffix tain or ain (as given in
Domesday) may, however, have another meaning, viz. : from the Celtic
tin or tew, a fire, in allusion to the Beltane fires on Ingleborough ; or
Teat, hain or am, a wood or thicket. With' regard to the former, the

Benthaji.

very ancient and serviceable beacon on Ingleborough apparently gave
name, as elsewhere pointed out, to plnces much more distant than
Bentham, which is only some four or five miles off, and can be well seen,
as shewn in onr illustration. It is questionable whether there was any
great extent of wood at the time of the Norman Survey. At any race,
in the neighbourhood of the village there was a large area of both grass
and arable land.

The tree meaning seems doubtful, yet I am inclined to accept the Saxon
terminal ham, heim, or home, as the more probable explanation. The
presence of a Saxon church, the position as chief manor, and the extent
of cultivated land, are emphatically indicative of a home. And in later

rters, as also in the local pronunciation, the name appears to have been

187

almost invariably spoken or written Bentham, Bentame, Bentum, and
the like. It is not improbable that the Norman scribes misread the final
am for ain. Although in the Nomina Villarum (a.d. 1815* the name is.
actually written Denton, a still very obvious error in transcription.

Yet in spite of all this ancient importance, it is astonishing how little
has been recorded of Bentham. Dr. Whitaker devotes but a few desultory
lines to it, apparently for the reason that no families of note were ever
settled here.

The past history of the manor is in part coincident with that of
Ingleton, both having been acquired in the reign of Queen Elizabeth by
the family of Cholmley or Cholmondeley, who shortly after the dissolution
of monasteries, obtained a lease for twenty-one years of the abbey lands
in the neighbourhood of Whitby, and subsequently (in 1545) received a
grant of all the possessions of that house. Sir Richard Cholmley, lord
of Bentham and Ingleton, was born in 1580, and in 1624 was High
Sheriff of Co. York., and M.P. for Scarborough. He resided at Whitby,
and died in 1631. Sir Richard Cholmley, of Roxby, in the parish of
Spofforth, his grandfather, joined the expedition under the Earl of
Hertford, against the Scotch, and so gallantly distinguished himself that
after the burning of Edinburgh he was knighted at Leith, 11th May,
1544.*

The following conveyance was effected in the 37th year ot Elizabeth.
The exchange stated being for a render of 400 marks of silver :

A.D. 1595. Plaintiffs : Thomas Metham, esq., Ralph Sal ven, esq., and Francis
Metham, esq. Deforciants : Richard Cholmeley, esq., and Richard Cholmeley,
gent. Manors of Ingleton and Bentham, and the advowson of Bentham church.

The plaintiffs to this transfer were of the ancient and knightly
family of Metham, of Howdenshire, while the Salvens, of North Duffield,
and Croxdale Hall, Co. Durham, have for many centuries ranked among
the chief gentry of the Palatinate. The following transaction may also
be cited, as shewing what families were connected with Bentham at this
time :

A.D. 1598-9. Plaintiffs : Thomas Wyldman, Steph. Husband, Wm. Cumberland,
Robert Tatham, Thos. Huganson, John Yeates, Edmd. Hogeson, Jane Robynson r
widow, and Francis Plumer. Deforciants : John Gybson, Doc. of Laws, and
Margaret his wife, and John Gybson, gent. Seven messuages with lands in
Bentham, Burton and Thornton. A Warrant against the heirs of Marmaduk*
Gibson, deceased, the brother of Doctor John Gibson.

The little hamlet or domain of Gibson's Green, near Bentham, was-
named after this old family, and the Dr. Gibson here referred to was a
celebrated Elizabethan divine, and a Canon Residentiary of York. Dean

Vide Forster'B Pedigrees of Yorkshire County Families.

188

Hutton, afterwards Archbishop of York, writing in May, 1582, to the
Earl of Huntingdon, who was at that time Lord President of Her
Majesty's Council in the North, styles him " my good frend," and adding,
" I have alwaies wished him well, and verie lothe wold I be to joyne with
his enemies ; which had bene done before this tyme, yf it could have
bene compassed." Dr. Gibson, though non-resident, drew the stipend
of a Canon Residentiary, and this letter was in respect to an appeal for
him to retain the profits of residence, or " quietlie enjoy his prsebend
and dignitie, thoughe he be absente," a proposal advanced by the good
doctor and his friends which does not seem to have succeeded. The
Gibsons resided in this neighbourhood from at least the time of Queen
Mary, and at Gibson's Green, between Calf Cop and Oysterber and the
Burton road, there is an old house of theirs with the initials and date,
J. A. G., 1680, carved above the doorway. Among the wills of the
Registry at Richmond, there is also the following curious injunction
concerning a member of this family :

Jhesus, 7 May, 1554, Rychard Gybsoti of Yngleton — to be buried in the
churche of Saynt Leonard at Yngleton, ny unto the place wher I have kneled —
Item, I will that ther be vi masses the day of my buryall, and every prest to have
iiijd. — Item. I will that my son Christopher have my jacke, a pair of splyntes, a
sconse, a yoke and bowes.*

With respect to the other families concerned in the above deed, that
named Husband occurs frequently in the registers two centuries ago, or
from the time they have been preserved, and it appears to be the only
family name inscribed therein to which the Latin word generosws, the
equivalent to ''gentleman," is attached, thus :

Maria filia Will mi Husband, generosi, sepulta Maii 19, 1686.
Stephanus Husband, gener., sepultus erat Sept. 14, Ano Dni 1689.

• Ajackr., sometimes called an acketon or hoqueton, was a defensive jacket or doublet quilted
with leather ; aplynts, or spl-nt*, were armour plates for the protection of the inside of the arms ;
and a sconse was a metal skull-cap or head-piece, without vizor. It is interesting to note that the
possession of these accoutrements shew the above Richard Gibson to have been a man of some
consequence, as by the famous Statute of Winchester, passed 18th Edward I., (a. d. 1284) every
man was bound to provide and keep armour and weapons, according to his estate or goods. The
armour and weapons directed by this statute to be kept by persons of different possessions, were
thus allotted : (1) Kvory one possessed of lands to the yearly value of 16 pounds and 40 marks
in goods, to keep a haubergcon, an iron head-piece, a sword, knife, and horse. (2) Those having
from 10 and under 16 pounds in lands and chattels, or the value of 40 marks, the same as the
preceding class, the horse excepted. (3) Persons having 100 shillings per annum in land, and
upwards, were to keep a doublet, a head-piece of iron, a sword, and a knife. (4) From 40 shillings
annual rent in land, and upwards to 100, to keep a sword, bow and arrows, and a knife. (6) He
that had under 40 shillings in land, was sworn to keep faulchions, gisarmes, daggers, and other
small arms. (6) Persons possessing less than 20 marks in chattels, to have swords, daggers, and
other inferior weapons, and all others, authorised to keep bows and arrows might have them out
of the forests.

A review of these arms was to be made twice a year, by two Constables out of every hundred,
who were to report defaulters to the justices, and they to present them to the King in Parliament.
This statute was repealed in the first of Philip and Mary, ( a.d. 1563), and another enacted, wherein
armour and weapons of more modern date were inserted. See Grose's Military Antiquities, Vol. 1,
page 12.

189

Among the marriage entries there is one of Elizabeth Husband and
Thomas Inglebie, armiger, on August 11th, 1717. As the baptism of
the said Elizabeth took place at Bentham, on Nov. 4th, 1700, she must
have entered upon her career of " weal and woe " at a very youthful age.
The first-born of this union was a daughter, Elizabeth, baptised at
Clapham, March 14th, 1718, and married in 1747 to James Carr, of
Stackhouse. The Inglebys, as related elsewhere, were an old Catholic
family, seated at Lawk land and Austwick, and a branch of the family
of Ripley Castle. In the Registration books of the names and real
estates of Papists in the West Riding, for the years 1717 to 1784, there
is this entry : " Thomas Ingilby, of Austwick, Co. York, Esquire ;"
doubtless the same as the above.

The subsequent history of the manor is apparently a con jointure with
that of Ingleton. Both properties were held by Gerard Lowther, of
Penrith, a Bencher of Lincoln's Inn, who was M.P. for Cumberland in
1602 ; and afterwards, by the marriage of Catherine, daughter and
heiress of Henry Bouch, of Ingleton Hall, with Edward Parker, J.P.,
of Browsholme, (who died in 1721) transmitted to this ancient historic
family. The Parkers, I may add, for many generations held the office
of Bowbearers of the Forest of Bolland. Thos. Lister Parker sold the
advowson of Bentham Church to James Farrer, of Clapham, on July
27th, 1810, retaining the next presentation, which was accordingly made
to the Rev. John F. Parker, in 1825.

The church at Bentham is, as stated, a pre-Norman foundation, but
of this early structure nothing has been saved but a fragment of a Saxon
Crucifixion., which for some centuries was concealed beneath a thick coat
of plaster in the east wall of the tower. The stone is about 18 inches
square, and bears a crude and slender representation of Our Saviour with
extended arms, and upon His head a crown of thorns. A few years ago
it was rescued from the risk of decay and placed in its more protected
position inside the church, by the present Rector.

As appears by a remission of taxes granted by Edward II. in the
18th year of his reign (a.d. 1319), the church at Bentham was almost
wholly destroyed by the marauding Scots during one of their raids after
the battle of Bannockburn in 1814. Amongst the towns specified by
the Act in the wapentake of Ewecross are Bentham and Clapham. On
the south wall and tower of the church there are, moreover, stones which
shew unmistakable evidence of the action of fire ; and it is also apparent,
from very recent discoveries in the church, that it was rebuilt shortly
after this time, for on raising the floor of the chancel in preparation
for the restoration which was completed in 1 878, the stone coffin of the
founder of the chancel was laid bare to view. At the head of the coffin
was placed an oblong fragment (unfortunately only a fragment) of a

190

atone slab, the name or any clue by which the worthy benefactor could
have been traced being lost. This slab, which probably had at one time
formed the lid of the coffin, measured 4 feet in length, and 1 foot in
width, and on it is cut out, and afterwards filled with lead, this

inscription, the earlier and latter parts of which have perished,

Qui Fecit cancellum cujus Anhle Propitietub Deus

£ — Who made this chancel, on whose soul God have pity. — ]

The formation of the letters employed in this work is somewhat curious
-and uncommon, and corresponds exactly to that of similar characters in
an alphabet in use about the year 1340, of which examples are
preserved in the British Museum. The coffin and slab, which now lie
within the Sacrarium on the north side, are denoted by a small brass
plate engraved with the following words : Sepvlchrvm : Fvndatoris :
hvivs : Cancelli : CiRC : f ±J>* 1340. [The burial place of the
Founder of this Chancel, about the year of our Lord, 1340.] It may
be remarked that the Founder was evidently a man of small stature, for
the inside measurements of the coffin are only 5 feet 7 inches long, and
1 foot 5£ inches wide. A particularly interesting feature, corroborative
of this period, is the inclination of the chancel towards the south, and is
intended to typify the leaning of our Lord's Head on the Cross after His
finished work. This is a beautiful symbol, most frequently observed
in architecture of the reign of Edward III.

A Faculty obtained in Oct., 1822, to "take down and entirely
remove " the fabric of the church appears to have been earned out upon
every portion, save the tower and chancel, with painful completeness.
The lower part of the tower, which is composed of random-walling, is
■evidently of the reign of Edward III., while above the second string-
course, including the parapets, is an addition of the time of Henry VII.
The re-building in 1823 entirely obliterated the ancient features in the
body of the church, while several relics of interest were either ruthlessly
destroyed or buried from sight under a copious covering of rough-cast
and whitewash. Happily the restoration of 1877-8, conducted by Mr.
Norman Shaw, R.A., has transformed ugliness into beauty, and disclosed
many things of rare interest long hidden from view, while under the
fostering care of the present rector, the Rev. F. W. Joy, M.A., who is
a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, a number of relics have been
discovered and most carefully restored, and much light has been thrown
by him upon the past history and structure of the ancient fabric. To
his able interest in the old parish records is to be attributed, indeed, a
great part of the information contained fn this chapter.

The interior of the church is particularly beautiful, and everything
looks in perfect and admirable order. The style of architecture is
Perpendicular throughout, the old arches being of exceptionally fine

191

proportions. According to the compass, the edifice does not stand due
east and west, but inclines a great deal south-west and north-east. It is
very much to be regretted that when the church was thoroughly examined,
previous to the commencement of the restoration in 1876, no trace of
any old pediment or capital was found, all having been ruthlessly
abolished in 1823. A stone corbel, let into the east wall of the chancel
aisle, and inscribed with the initials, I.B., has evidently held a statue of
the patron saint, John the Baptist, now unfortunately lost. This, it may
be remarked, was a relic of pre-Reformation times, when, according to
custom, each church contained three altars ; namely, the High Altar, in
the centre of the east end of the chancel, being necessarily the chief ;
the other two, dedicated respectively to the Virgin Mary and the. Patron
Saint, being placed in subordinate positions.

The beautiful east window by Powell, of London, is of five lights,
and illustrates the following scripture subjects : The Salutation ; The
Naming of Jesus ; The Baptism of Christ ; The Reproving of Herod ;
and the Martyrdom of John, these being scenes in the life of John the
Baptist, the patron saint of the church. Another very beautiful window,
by the same firm, is on the south side of the chancel, and is to the memory
of the late Mr. Joseph Teale, who died in 1889. The left-hand light
represents the Angel of the Revelation, (chapter xxii., 1 — 2) " And he
shewed me a pure river of water of life, clear as crystal, proceeding out of
the throne of God and of the Lamb." The right-hand light has for its
subject the Angel going down into the Pool of Bethesda, and troubling
the water, (St. John, chapter v., 2). There are also other handsome
memorial windows, viz. : to Mr. Alfred Foster, of Spring Head, Halifax,
who died in 1873 ; to Mr. John Swainson and his wife, Elizabeth
Susannah Swainson, of Halton Hall, (erected in 1878) ; and to
Mrs. Eleanor Burrow, who died in 1873 ; put in by her niece, Mary Alice
Just, in 1886. There is a mural tablet, with a Latin inscription, at the
west end of the nave, in memory of the Rev. George Holden, (ob. 1793),
and Jane, his wife (ob. 1781.) He was schoolmaster at Bentham, and
an author of some repute, and whose son, the Rev. Geo. Holden, LL.T).,
is commemorated by a similar monument in the church at Horton-in-
Ribblesdale, of which he was minister until his death in 1820. The
Bentham Registers record the elder Holden's marriage, by licence, with
Jane Brooks, spinster, Sept. 20th, 1755. He was one of the first who
understood the rotations of sea-tides, and by his calculations produced
the once popular " Holden's Liverpool Tide Tables."

Within the church there is also a neat mural monument to several
members of the Garnett family, of Lancaster. The most noticeable of
the few brasses which have escaped destruction, is that of Christopher
Fetherstone, Rector of Bentham from a. d. 1616 to 1653. He was a

192

younger son of Alexander Petherstone, Esq., of Fetherstone Haugh,
Northumberland. The inscription, in Latin and English, is neatly if
somewhat playfully expressed. Observe the humour on the words
Feather and Stone.

" Conditur hac parva generosus Rector in urna.
Corpus terra tegit, spiritus astra colit.
Pluma refert an imam, sic Saxum corporis umbram.
Pluma volat, Saxum nunc jacet hoc tumulo.

Who list to know who lyes under this stone,

Sometimes a man ; but now is tied and gone,

His soul like to a Feather flyes aloft,

His body stone like to his Center soft,

What I have beene thou art ; and thou shalt bee,

What now I am, loe this is Destinie.

Christoferus Fetherstone, artium Magister, Rector ecclesine deBentham incumbens,

succumbens ; obiit Octobris 14to anno 1653."

The tablet is suiTuounted by the coat-of-arms of the Fetherstone
family, which also has a reference to the name. In one of the upper
windows of the old rectory there were several beautifully emblazoned
quarries of old glass with the same coat-of-arms and crest. These have
been carefully preserved, and have been re-leaded and placed in a
prominent position in a window of the drawing-room of the present
rectory, with a suitable inscription, detailing their history.

Near this old brass there is one recording another rector, the Rev.
Thomas Lupton, who died in 1719-20, aged 80, and who was rector of
the church 56 years, and his wife, Mrs. Mary Lupton, who died in 1096,
aged 55. Nothing appears to be known of these, excepting a comment
of dubious import, in the year 1690, when a complaint was laid by the
parishioners of Ingleton against Thomas Lupton, Rector of Benthain,
for not allowing their curate a competent stipend ! Near the font is a
memorial brass to Anna, wife of Stephen Husband, gent., who died in
1683. We have already referred to this family. And another neat
brass commemorates anonymously the placing of the clock and chimes
in the tower, July 14th, 1885, by "one who hopes for Heaven in
Eternity."

Among the remaining antiquities now preserved in the church is an
old erased tombstone, recovered from the debris of the u restoration " of
1823, and which bears the arms of the Mason's Company, a chevron
between three castles, and the motto, " In the Lord is all our trust."
The present Rector, Mr. Joy, has, at the suggestion of the Society for
the Preservation of Ancient Monuments, placed this interesting tablet in
the east wall of the Font Chapel, and the stone which formerly held the
brass tablet of the Rev. Thos. Lupton and his wife (mentioned above),
but which has until lately been used as one of the steps leading to the

193

beating apparatus, has been restored to its place and the brass fitted into
its old quarters again. Another curious stone erected near it, was taken
ont of the river, bat unfortunately this slab, from long neglect and
ciposnre, is in a broken and fragmentary condition. The inscription is
in raised letters of the middle of the 17th century, and is apparently a
memorial stone, — possibly a grave-stone. The portion that is legible

reads, " Of John , Kiekebecke W Two Days

Befo Departurere Her Greatest A "

The handsome reredos is in Caen stone, with marble panels,
containing sculptured emblems, in relief, of the fonr Evangelists. It was
made and carved by Mr. Earp, of London. The lectern, presented by

Bestham Church Font.
Henry Hall, Esq., of Alton, in Hampshire, and the carved oak pulpit,
are also very beautifnl objects. The latter was presented by John
Ellershaw, Esq., of Headingley, a representative of an old Bentham
family. The large and beautiful font most be noticed at greater length,
as it is quite unique. It was designed by Mr. W. R. Lethaby, a pupil
of Mr. Norman Shaw, R.A., and is referred to in an article on
" Architecture at the Academy," in the fyiectator of June 7th, 1890.
The several parts of the whole structure are an emblematic interpretation

184

After viewing this romantic spot, and on crossing near the head
of the gill, and striking due west up the fell, in about a mile the stone
fence which forms the dividing line between Yorkshire and Lancashire,
will be reached. Following it a short distance a conspicuous group
of rocks will be observed at the summit (1,320 feet), one of which has
an artificial opening, and is called " Queen of the Fairies Chair." Here on
bright moonlight nights, say the believing dalesfolk, the airy sprites of
Burn Moor used to hold festive revel. All along this boundary ridge are
other huge boulders or collections of stones known by such names as the
" Standard of Burnmoor," " Long Grain Beacon," " Raven Castle,"
« 4 Cat Stones," and the " Cross of Greet." The latter is a large gritstone
pillar on the piss into the Forest of Bolland, about five miles north of
Slaidburn.

185

CHAPTER XVI.

Bentham.

Be n tham — Roman and Saxon remains — The church in Domesday — Ancient
families — History of the manor - Gibson's Green arid Dr. John Gibson-
Curious will — Stones fired by the Scots — A model church— Some rare relics —
Fine old bell — A watch-tower in the Wars of the Roses — Bentham Registers -
Burial in woollen — List of Rectors — Public institutions — Old Grammar
School — Fox, the Quaker, at Bentham — Trade tokens — Ancient market-cross —
The Black Hole — " Tweed Dobbie " and Barguest — Beautiful scenery — Four
Stones. — Waterscale Wood and Cave.

HE ancient and attractive village, or rather villages of High
and Low Bentham (which are about a mile apart) lie just
within the Yorkshire border, being separated on the south
side from the county of Lancaster by the little Kirk Beck
which forms a picturesque waterfall opposite the rectory, and flows into
the Wenning near the church. While the neighbouring and extensive
parishes of Giggleswick and Horton-in-Ribblesdale are, as elsewhere
stated, within the Deanery of Craven, the parishes of Bentham, Ingleton,
and Clapham form part of the Deanery of Lonsdale, yet all are comprised,
for civil purposes, within the division of Ewecross.

IV. Manors. In He Detain (Bentham) Wininctune (Wennington) Tathaim
(Tatham) Fareltun (Farlton) Tunestalle (Tunstall) Chetel had four manors, and
there are in them eighteen carucates to be taxed, and three churches.

The fact that there were three churches of value, viz. : Bentham,
Tatham, and Tunstall, and 1 8 geldable carucates, or probably 2000 acres,
proves that the district must have been in a very advanced and profitable
state of cultivation at that early period. It is, indeed, almost certain
that the favoured and fertile lauds about Bentham, watered by the
pleasant Wenuing, which abounded in fish, were ever since the Roman
occupation the centre and home of an active agricultural class. Moreover
the Roman military road from Colne and Ribchester passed through the
village towards Overborough and Casterton, and it is also probable that

196

1847. October 27, Mary Thompson, aged 12 weeks, (died on the road between
Tatham Bridge and Bentham).

1863. July 23, Alice Hole, aged 100.

1874. April S, John Paisley Smith, aged IS years, (killed by lightning at
5-10 p.m., March Slst, as he was returning home from school).

1882. July 3, Isaac Shuttleworth, of Long Preston, aged 24 years, killed by
lightning.

As the catalogue of Rectors of Bentham, given in Whitaker's
History of Richmo?idshire, is imperfect, it will be useful to insert here
an amended list, which I am enabled to present by favour of the
Rev. F. W. Joy, the present Rector.

Datk of

IjCSTITl'TION.

Rectors.

Patrons,

Cause ok
Vacaxcv.

A. D. 1874

D'ns Edm. Mi rescue .

p'mort

20 Julii, 1394

D'ns Nic. Otterburn .

p'mort

20 Sept, 1421

D'ns Tho. Swetynge.

Cap

Robt. Fishe, CI. . .

Joh'es Tirwhit

1462

p'mort

Thomas Leson . . .

1546

p'mort

5 July, 1668

Anthony Hopkins . .

Richard Cholmeley.

of Roxby, Kt. .

Death of R. F.

18 Nov., 1588

Robert Field . . .

Richard Cholmeley .

Death of A. H.

29 May, 1616

Xtopher FetherBtone,

v/l«, iM.A. ...

Will. Louther, Ar. .

25 Aug., 1660

Robert Lowther . .

The King . . .

24 Jan., 1670

Edward Fell, M.A. .

Anthony Bouch, of

Ingleton. Com.Lan.

Resig. of R. L.

9 Oct., 1693

Thomas L up ton . ,

Peter Murthwait . .

July, 1717

Thomas L up ton* . .

Win., Abp. of York,

by lapse . . .

Death of T. L.

17 June, 1720

Richard Goodall, A.B.

Ferd. Hudleston, of

Millom Castle, Esq.

Death of T. L.

26 Mar., 1748

James Cowgill . . .

Alex. Butler, of Kirk -

land, Com. Lan. Esq.

Death of R. G.

3 Jan.. 1748

Oliver Marton, B.A. .

John Parker, Brows-

holme,Co. York , Esq.

Death of J. C.

26 Nov., 1761

Edwd. Fell (?) . . .

Ed. Parker, of Brows-

holme ....

Resig. of 0. M.

16 Dec, 1761

Thomas Butler, M.A .

3 Oct., 1825

John Fleming Parker,

M.A

Thos. Lister Parker,
Hill St., London,

Esq

Death of T. B.

20 Jan., 1863

William Clayton, M.A.

Rev. Win. Clayton .

Death of J. F. P.

7 Mar., 1865

Matthew Wood, M.A.

Susannah Clayton .

Death of W. C.

22 Aug., 1865

Edgar Sherlock, M.A.

Rev. Edgar Sherlock

Resig. of M. W.

14 Oct., 1884

Frederic Walker Joy,

M.A, F.S.A. . .

Walker Joy, Esq.

Resig. of E. S.

* There is an inexplicable anomaly between this entry and a brass in the church, -which records
that the Rev. Thomas Lupton, -vrho died in 1719-20, was minister of the parish " six and fifty
years." See p. 192.

187

almost invariably spoken or written Bentham, Bentame, Bentum, and
the like. It is not improbable that the Norman scribes misread the final
am for ain. Although in the Nomina Villarum (a.d. 1315) the name is-
actually written Denton, a still very obvious error in transcription.

The following conveyance was effected in the 37th year ot Elizabeth.
The exchange stated being for a render of 400 marks of silver :

A.D. 1595. Plaintiffs : Thomas Metham, esq., Ralph Salven, esq., and Francis
Metham, esq. Deforciants : Richard Cholmeley, esq., and Richard Choi me] ey,
gent. Manors of Ingleton and Bentham, and the advowson of Bentham church.

A.D. 1598-9. Plaintiffs : Thomas Wyldman, Steph. Husband, Wm. Cumberland,
Robert Tatham, Thos. Huganson, John Yeates, Edmd. Hogeson, Jane Robynson r
widow, and Francis Plumer. Deforciants : John Qybson, Doc. of Laws, and
Margaret his wife, and John Gybson, gent. Seven messuages with lands in
Bentham, Burton and Thornton. A Warrant against the heirs of Marmaduke
Gibson, deceased, the brother of Doctor John Gibson.

The little hamlet or domain of Gibson's Green, near Bentham, wa&
named after this old family, and the Dr. Gibson here referred to was a
celebrated Elizabethan divine, and a Canon Residentiary of York. Dean

Fide Forster's Pedigrees of Yorkshire County Families.

188

Hutton, afterwards Archbishop of York, writing in May, 1582, to the
Earl of Huntingdon, who was at that time Lord President of Her
Majesty's Council in the North, styles him " my good frend," and adding,
" I have alwaies wished him well, and verie lothe wold I be to joyne with
his enemies ; which had bene done before this tyme, yf it could have
bene compassed." Dr. Gibson, though non-resident, drew the stipend
of a Canon Residentiary, and this letter was in respect to an appeal for
him to retain the profits of residence, or " quietlie enjoy his prtebend
and dignitie, thoughe he be absente," a proposal advanced by the good
doctor and his friends which does not seem to have succeeded. The
Gibsons resided in this neighbourhood from at least the time of Queen
Mary, and at Gibson's Green, between Calf Cop and Oysterber and the
Burton road, there is an old house of theirs with the initials and date,
J. A. G., 1680, carved above the doorway. Among the wills of the
Registry at Richmond, there is also the following curious injunction
concerning a member of this family :

Jhesug, 7 May, 1554. Rychard Gybsoii of Yngleton — to be buried in the
churche of Saynt Leonard at Yngleton, ny unto the place wher 1 have kneled —
Item, I will that ther be vi washes the day of my buryall, and every prest to have
iiijd. — Item. I will that my son Christopher have my jacke, a pair of splyntes, a
sconse, a yoke and bowes.*

With respect to the other families concerned in the above deed, that
named Husband occurs frequently in the registers two centuries ago, or
from the time they have been preserved, and it appears to be the only
family name inscribed therein to which the Latin word generosiis, the
equivalent to ifc gentleman," is attached, thus :

Maria filia Will mi Husband, generosi, sepulta Maii 19. 1686.
Stephanus Husband, gener., sepultus erat Sept. 14, Ano Dni 1689.

* A jack*, sometimes called an ackeUm or hoqvtt<>n, was a defensive jacket or doublet quilted
with leather ; splt/nts, or splmts, were armour plates for the protection of the inside of the arms ;
and a scn»sr was a metal skull-cap or head-piece, without vicor. It is interesting to note that the
possession of these accoutrements shew the above Richard Gibson to have been a man of some
consequence, as by the famous Statute of Winchester, passed 18th Edward I., (a. d. 1284) every
man was bound to provide and keep armour and weapons, according to his estate or goods. The
armour and weapons directed by this statute to be kept by persons of different possessions, were
thus allotted : (1) Every one possessed of lands to the yearly value of 15 pounds and 40 marks
in goods, to keep a haubergeon, an iron head-piece, a sword, knife, and horse. (2) Those having
from 10 and under 15 pounds in lands and chattels, or the value of 40 marks, the same as the
preceding class, the horse excepted. (3) Persons having 100 shillings per annum in land, and
upwards, were to keep a doublet, a head-piece of iron, a sword, and a knife. (4) From 40 shillings
annual rent in land, and upwards to 100, to keep a sword, bow and arrows, and a knife. (5) He
that had under 40 shillings in land, was sworn to keep faulchions, gisarmes, daggers, and other
small arms. (tij Persons possessing less than 20 marks in chattels, to have swords, daggers, and
other inferior weapons, and all others authorised to keep bows and arrows might have them out
of the forests.

A review of these arms was to be made twice a year, by two Constables out of every hundred,
who were to report defaulters to the justices, and they to present them to the King in Parliament.
This statute was repealed in the first of Philip and Mary, ( a.d. 1553), and another enacted, wherein
armour and weapons of more modern date were inserted. See Grose's Military Antiquities, Vol. 1,
page 12.

189

Among the marriage entries there is one of Elizabeth Husband and
Thomas Inglebie, armiger, on August 11th, 1717. As the baptism of
the said Elizabeth took place at Bentham, on Nov. 4th, 1700, she must
have entered upon her career of u weal and woe " at a very youthful age.
The first-born of this union was a daughter, Elizabeth, baptised at
Clapham, March 14th, 1718, and married in 1747 to James Carr, of
Stackhouse. The Inglebys, as related elsewhere, were an old Catholic
family, seated at Lawkland and Austwick, and a branch of the family
of Ripley Castle. In the Registration books of the names and real
estates of Papists in the West Riding, for the years 1717 to 1734, there
is this entry : " Thomas Ingilby, of Austwick, Co. York, Esquire ;"
doubtless the same as the above.

The subsequent history of the manor is apparently a con jointure with
that of Ingleton. Both properties were held by Gerard Lowther, of
Penrith, a Bencher of Lincoln's Inn, who was M.P. for Cumberland in
1602 ; and afterwards, by the marriage of Catherine, daughter and
heiress of Henry Bouch, of Ingleton Hall, with Edward Parker, J.P.,
of Browsholme, (who died in 1721) transmitted to this ancient historic
family. The Parkers, I may add, for many generations held the office
of Bowbearers of the Forest of Bolland. Thos. Lister Parker sold the
advowson of Bentham Church to James Fairer, of Clapham, on July
27th, 1810, retaining the next presentation, which was accordingly made
to the Rev. John F. Parker, in 1825.

The church at Bentham is, as stated, a pre-Norman foundation, but
of this early structure nothing has been saved but a fragment of a Saxon
Crucifixion, which for some centuries was concealed beneath a thick coat
of plaster in the east wall of the tower. The stone is about 18 inches
square, and bears a crude and slender representation of Our Saviour with
extended arms, and upon His head a crown of thorns. A few years ago
it was rescued from the risk of decay and placed in its more protected
position inside the church, by the present Rector.

As apj>ears by a remission of taxes granted by Edward II. in the
18th year of his reign (a.d. 1319), the church at Bentham was almost
wholly destroyed by the marauding Scots during one of their raids after
the battle of Bannockburn in 1314. Amongst the towns specified by
the Act in the wapentake of Ewecross are Bentham and Clapham. On
the south wall and tower of the church there are, moreover, stones which
shew unmistakable evidence of the action of fire ; and it is also apparent*
from very recent discoveries in the church, that it was rebuilt shortly
after this time, for on raising the floor of the chancel in preparation
for the restoration w r hich was completed in 1878, the stone coffin of the
founder of the chancel was laid bare to view. At the head of the coffin
was placed an oblong fragment (unfortunately only a fragment) of a

184

A capital trip is to ascend the Bolland Moor road as far as the above
little village of Keasden, 2£ miles from Clapham station ; the spire of
the neat little church rising prominently from the high land (770 feet)
above the romantic Keasden Gill. The building, which will accommodate
about 100 persons, is a chapel-of-ease to Clapham, and was erected in
1873, at the sole cost of the late James Farrer, Esq., J. P., of Ingleborough,
the lord of the manor. The deep gill, down which the foaming hill
beck leaps in a succession of small cascades, is well wooded, and at one
point of its course, called the Lumb Falls, the stream is precipitated
with considerable vehemence into a dark and deep pool, and when swollen
with rains is a particularly impressive sight.

After viewing this romantic spot, and on crossing near the head
of the gill, and striking due west up the fell, in about a mile the stone
fence which forms the dividing line between Yorkshire and Lancashire,
will be reached. Following it a short distance a conspicuous group
of rocks will be observed at the summit (1,320 feet), one of which has
an artificial opening, and is called " Queen of the Fairies Chair." Here on
bright moonlight nights, say the believing dalesfolk, the airy sprites of
Burn Moor used to hold festive revel. All along this boundary ridge are
other huge boulders or collections of stones knowu by such names as the
" Standard of Burnmoor," " Long Grain Beacon," " Raven Castle,"
*' Cat Stones," and the " Cross of Greet." The latter is a large gritstone
pillar on the pass into the Forest of Bolland, about five miles north of
Slaidburu.

185

CHAPTER XVI.

Bentham.

Bentham — Roman and Saxon remains - The church in Domesday — Ancient
families — History of the manor - Gibson's Green and Dr. John Gibson —
Curious will— Stones fired by the Scots — A model church—Some rare relics —
Fine old bell — A watch-tower in the Wars of the Roses — Bentham Registers —
Burial in woollen — List of Rectors — Public institutions — Old Grammar
School — Fox, the Quaker, at Bentham — Trade tokens — Ancient market-cross —
The Black Hole — •■ Tweed Dobbie " and Barguest— Beautiful scenery — Four
Stones. — Waterscale Wood and Cave.

HE ancient and attractive village, or rather villages of High
and Low Bentham (which are about a mile apart) lie just
within the Yorkshire border, being separated on the south
side from the county of Lancaster by the little Kirk Beck
which forms a picturesque waterfall opposite the rectory, and flows into
the Weuning near the church. While the neighbouring and extensive
parishes of Giggleswick and Horton-in-Ribblesdale are, as elsewhere
stated, within the Deanery of Craven, the parishes of Bentham, Ingletou,
and Clapham form part of the Deanery of Lonsdale, yet all are comprised,
for civil purposes, within the division of Ewecross.

The fact that there were three churches of value, viz. : Bentham,
Tatham, and Tunstall, and 1 8 geldable carucates, or probably 2000 acres,
proves that the district must have been in a very advanced and profitable
state of cultivation at that early period. It is, indeed, almost certain
that the favoured and fertile lands about Bentham, watered by the
pleasant Wenning, which abounded in fish, were ever since the Roman
occupation the centre and home of an active agricultural class. Moreover
the Roman military road from Colne and Ribchester passed through the
village towards Overborough and Casterton, and it is also probable that

202

It is said that in 1598, so prevalent was the disease in the north that
scores of towns and villages in Yorkshire, Durham, and Westmoreland
had to be vigilantly watched in this way. The Assizes at Durham could
not be held owing to the extent and malignancy of the outbreak. At
Richmond, 2200 persons are reported to have died in this one year, and
at Kendal even a larger number were similarly stricken down. During
the great plague of 1665 the strictest precautions were taken, but alas !
in too many instances they came too late, and whole communities were
suddenly overcome by the awful death-dealing plague. What was
the nature of this terrible visitation at Bentham, or whether it actually
prevailed here, we have had no means of ascertaining. But it is a
significant fact that the parish registers cease, and are missing, with the
year 1665, which does not seem unlikely to be from the circumstances
that these, and similar moveables, in which there was the slightest
suspicion of contagion lurking, were destroyed during this fatal year.

But let us leave this old Plague Stone, with its unhappy memories,
and journey forward to Low Bentham. Passing through the village we
arrive at the substantial Wenning Bridge, and the grand old church,
described in the last chapter, opposite which is the Rectory, a
picturesquely situated Elizabethan residence, erected in 1884 from
designs by Mr. Norman Shaw, R.A. The old Rectory was taken down
and the present one built on its site.

Bentham Bridge, in the time of Christ. Fetherstone, Rector from
1616 to 1653, was the scene of one of the most remarkable rescues from
a watery grave that has probably ever been recorded. Indeed, such an
instance of re-animation— a human being lying three days and three
nights in the river !— seems incredible, but the statement is vouched for
in the following particulars : —

"Strange Providence— WWliim Foster of Newby Coates abt a Mile beyond
Clapham in Craven, haveing bene travelling abroad and returning home over
Bentham Bridge, leading his Horse, and haveing on a thick Cloak, ye wind being
very high blew him over ye Bridge into ye water, and he was carryed doune ye
stream a full Mile and He was not found till after three days and three nights, but
then a Maid going to water some cows, she spy'd some parte of his foot, and calling
some persons they found him covered with stones and sand, they took him up,
carried him to a little House near at hand, and stripped him, supposing him dead ;
but a Servant woman standing near his heade cryed out there was some life in him,
for 6he thought she saw his hair stirr. Mrs. Fetherstone a Minister's wife then
present replyed it cannot be, but observing him more wistly, they resolve to use
some meanes for his recovery. Accordingly they laid him before ye Fire and
chafed him — And in lesse yn three houres time he recovered so far as to speake to
them, and lived after this three years and had a Daughter by his wife. This
strange Providence being noysd abroad many persons called to see him as a
wonder, he living in ye high road to Kendall. It was thought that his Cloak was
instrumental! to save his life, for it was found wrapt abt his head 3 or 4 folde so

187

almost invariably spoken or written Bentham, Bentame, Bentum, and
the like. It is not improbable that the Norman scribes misread the final
am for ain. Although in the Nomina Villarum (a.d. 1815) the name is-
actually written Denton, a still very obvious error in transcription.

The past history of the manor is in part coincident with that of
Ingleton, both having been acquired in the reign of Queen Elizabeth by
the family of Cholmley or Cholmondeley, who shortly after the dissolution
of monasteries, obtained a lease for twenty-one years of the abbey lands
in the neighbourhood of Whitby, and subsequently (in 1545) received a
grant of all the possessions of that house. Sir Richard Cholmley, lord
of Bentham and Ingleton, was born in 1580, and in 1624 was High
Sheriff of Co. York., and M.P. for Scarborough. He resided at Whitby,
and died in 1681. Sir Richard Cholmley, of Roxby, in the parish of
Spofforth, his grandfather, joined the expedition under the Earl of
Hertford, against the Scotch, and so gallantly distinguished himself that
after the burning of Edinburgh he was knighted at Leith, 11th May,
1544.*

The following conveyance was effected in the 37th year ot Elizabeth.
The exchange stated being for a render of 400 marks of silver :

a.d. 1595. Plaintiffs : Thomas Metham, esq., Ralph Salven, esq., and Francis
Met ham, esq. Deforciants : Richard Cholmeley, esq., and Richard Cholmeley,
gent. Manors of Ingleton and Bentham, and the advowson of Bentham church.

The plaintiffs to this transfer were of the ancient and knightly
family of Metham, of Howdenshire, while the Saivens, of North Duffield,
and Croxdale Hall, Co. Durham, have for many centuries ranked among
the chief gentry of the Palatinate. The following transaction may also
be cited, as shewing what families were connected with Bentham at this
time :

A.D. 1598-9. Plaintiffs : Thomas Wyldman, Steph. Husband, Wm. Cumberland,
Robert Tatham, Thos. Huganson, John Teates, Edmd. Hogeson, Jane Robynson r
widow, and Francis Plumer. Deforciants : John Gybson, Doc. of Laws, and
Margaret his wife, and John Gybson, gent. Seven messuages with lands in
Bentham, Burton and Thornton. A Warrant against the heirs of Marmaduke
Gibson, deceased, the brother of Doctor John Gibson.

Vide Forster's Pedigrees of Yorkshire County Families.

188

Hutton, afterwards Archbishop of York, writing in May, 1582, to the
Earl of Huntingdon, who was at that time Lord President of Her
Majesty's Council in the Xorth, styles him " my good frend," and adding,
" I have alwaies wished him well, and verie lothe wold I be to joyne with
his enemies ; which had bene done before this tyme, yf it could have
bene compassed." Dr. Gibson, though non-resident, drew the stipend
of a Canon Residentiary, and this letter was in respect to an appeal for
him to retain the profits of residence, or " quietiie enjoy his prsebend
and dignitie, thoughe he be absente," a proposal advanced by the good
doctor and his friends which does not seem to have succeeded. The
Gibsons resided in this neighbourhood from at least the time of Queen
Mary, and at Gibson's Green, between Calf Cop and Oysterber and the
Burton road, there is an old house of theirs with the initials and date,
J. A. G., 1680, carved above the doorway. Among the wills of the
Registry at Richmond, there is also the following curious injunction
concerning a member of this family :

Jhesus, 7 Muy, 1554. Rychard Gybson of Yngleton — to be buried in the
churche of Saynt Leonard at Yngleton, ny unto the place wher I have kneled —
Item, I will that ther be vi masses the day of my buryall, and every prest to have
iiijd. — Item. I will that my son Christopher have my jacke, a pair of splyntes, a
sconse, a yoke and bowes.«

With respect to the other families concerned in the above deed, that
named Husband occurs frequently in the registers two centuries ago, or
from the time they have been preserved, and it appears to be the only
family name inscribed therein to which the Latin word ijenerosus, the
equivalent to tfc gentleman," is attached, thus:

Maria filia Willmi Husband, generosi, sepulta Maii 19, 1686.
Stephanus Husband, gener., sepultus erat Sept. 14, Ano Dni 1689.

* AyVicAv, sometimes called an acketon or hoqueton, was a defensive jacket or doublet quilted
with leather ; splynts, or »pUnta % were armour plates for the protection of the inside of the arms ;
and a sc»usf was a metal skull-cap or head-piece, without vizor. It is interesting to note that the
possession of these accoutrements shew the above Richard Gibson to have been a man of some
consequence, as by the famous Statute of Winchester, passed 18th Edward I., (a. d. 1284) every
man was bound to provide and keep armour and weapons, according to his estate or goods. The
armour and weapons directed by this statute to be kept by persons of different possessions, were
thus allotted : (1) Every one possessed of lands to the yearly value of 15 pounds and 40 marks
in goods, to keep a haubergeon, an iron head-piece, a sword, knife, and horse. (2) Those having
from 10 and under 15 pounds in lands and chattels, or the value of 40 marks, the same as the
preceding class, the horse excepted. (3) Persons having 100 shillings per annum in land, and
upwards, were to keep a doublet, a head-piece of iron, a sword, and a knife. (4) From 40 shillings
annual rent in land, and upwards to 100, to keep a sword, bow and arrows, and a knife. (5) He
that had under 40 shillings in land, was sworn to keep faulchions, gisarmes, daggers, and other
small arms. (6) Persons possessing less than 20 marks in chattels, to have swords, daggers, and
other inferior weapons, and all others authorised to keep bows and arrows might have them out
of the forests.

A review of these arms was to be made twice a year, by two Constables out of every hundred,
who were to report defaulters to the justices, and they to present them to the King in Parliament.
This statute was repealed in the first of Philip and Mary, ( a.d. 155S), and another enacted, wherein
armour and weapons of more modern date were inserted. See Grose's Military Antiquities, Vol. 1,
page 12.

189

Among the marriage entries there is one of Elizabeth Husband and
Thomas Inglebie, armiger, on August 11th, 1717. As the baptism of
the said Elizabeth took place at Bentham, on Nov. 4th, 1700, she must
have entered upon her career of u weal and woe " at a very youthful age.
The first-born of this union was a daughter, Elizabeth, baptised at
Clapham, March 14th, 1718, and married in 1747 to James Carr, of
Stackhouse. The Inglebys, as related elsewhere, were an old Catholic
family, seated at Lawkland and Austwick, and a branch of the family
of Ripley Castle. In the Registration books of the names and real
estates of Papists in the West Riding, for the years 1717 to 1734, there
is this entry : " Thomas Ingilby, of Austwick, Co. York, Esquire ;"
doubtless the same as the above.

The subsequent history of the manor is apparently a conjoin ture with
that of Ingleton. Both properties were held by Gerard Lowther, of
Penrith, a Bencher of Lincoln's Inn, who was M.P. for Cumberland in
1602 ; and afterwards, by the marriage of Catherine, daughter and
heiress of Henry Bouch, of Ingleton Hall, with Edward Parker, J.P.,
of Browsholme, (who died in 1721) transmitted to this ancient historic
family. The Parkers, I may add, for many generations held the office
of Bowbearers of the Forest of Bolland. Thos. Lister Parker sold the
advowson of Bentham Church to James Farrer, of Clapham, on July
27th, 1810, retaining the next presentation, which was accordingly made
to the Rev. John F. Parker, in 1825.

The church at Bentham is, as stated, a pre-Norman foundation, but
of this early structure nothing has been saved but a fragment of a Saxon
Crucifixion, which for some centuries was concealed beneath a thick coat
of plaster in the east wall of the tower. The stone is about 1 8 inches
square, and bears a crude and slender representation of Our Saviour with
extended arms, and upon His head a crown of thorns. A few years ago
it was rescued from the risk of decay and placed in its more protected
position inside the church, by the present Rector.

As api)ears by a remission of taxes granted by Edward II. in the
18th year of his reign (a.d. 1319), the church at Bentham was almost
wholly destroyed by the marauding Scots during one of their raids after
the battle of Bannockburn in 1814. Amongst the towns specified by
the Act in the wapentake of Ewecross are Bentham and Clapham. On
the south wall and tower of the church there are, moreover, stones which
shew unmistakable evidence of the action of fire ; and it is also apparent,
from very recent discoveries in the church, that it was rebuilt shortly
after this time, for on raising the floor of the chancel in preparation
for the restoration which was completed in 1878, the stone coffin of the
founder of the chancel was laid bare to view. At the head of the coffin
was placed an oblong fragment (unfortunately only a fragment) of a

192

younger son of Alexander Fetherstone, Esq., of Fetherstone Haugh,
Northumberland. The inscription, in Latin and English, is neatly if
somewhat playfully expressed. Observe the humour on the words
Feather and Stone.

" Conditur hac parva generosus Rector in urna.
Corpus terra tegit, spiritus astra colit,
Pluma refert an imam, sic Saxum corporis umbram.
Pluma vol at, Saxum nunc jacet hoc tumulo.

Who list to know who lyes under this stone,

Sometimes a man ; but now is fled and gone,

His soul like to a Feather flyes aloft,

His body stone like to his Center soft,

What I have beene thou art ; and thou shalt bee,

What now I am, loe this is Destinie.

Chri8toferus Fetherstone, artium Magister, Rector ecclesiae deBentham incumbens,

succumbens ; obiit Octobris Mto anno 1653.'*

The tablet is surmounted by the coat-of-arms of the Fetherstone
family, which also has a reference to the name. In one of the upper
windows of the old rectory there were several beautifully emblazoned
quarries of old glass with the same coat-of-arms and crest. These have
been carefully preserved, and have been re-leaded and placed in a
prominent position in a window of the drawing-room of the present
rectory, with a suitable inscription, detailing their history.

Near this old brass there is one recording another rector, the Rev.
Thomas Lupton, who died in 1719-20, aged 80, and who was rector of
the church 56 years, and his wife, Mrs. Mary Lupton, who died in 1696,
aged 55. Nothing appears to be known of these, excepting a comment
of dubious import, in the year 1690, when a complaint was laid by the
parishioners of Ingleton against Thomas Lupton, Rector of Bentham,
for not allowing their curate a competent stipend ! Near the font is a
memorial brass to Anna, wife of Stephen Husband, gent., who died in
1683. We have already referred to this family. And another neat
brass commemorates anonymously the placing of the clock and chimes
in the tower, July 14th, 1885, by "one who hopes for Heaven in
Eternity."

heating apparatus, has been restored to its place and the brass fitted into
its old quarters again. Another curious stone erected near it, wag taken
out of the river, but unfortunately this slab, from long neglect and
exposure, is in a broken and fragmentary condition. The inscription is
in raised letters of the middle of the 17th century, and is apparently a
memorial stone, — possibly a grave-atone. The portion that is legible

reads, " Of John , Kirkebecke W Two Days

Befo Departubere Her Greatest A "

The handsome reredos is in Caen stone, with marble panels,
containing sculptured emblems, in relief, of the fonr Evangelists. It was
made and carved by Mr. Earp, of London, The lectern, presented by

Bentham Church Font.
Henry Hall, Esq., of Alton, in Hampshire, and the carved oak pulpit,
are also very beautiful objects. The latter was presented by John
Ellerahaw, Esq., of Headingley, a representative of an old Bentham
family. The large and beautifnl font must be noticed at greater length.
as it is quite unique. Tt was designed by Mr. W. R. Lethaby, a pupil
of Mr. Norman Shaw, R.A., and is referred to in an article on
" Architecture at the Academy," in the Spectator of June 7th, 1890.
The several parte of the whole structure are au emblematic interpretation

206

Earl, (13th Elizabeth, a.d. 1570), for his share in the great Catholic
" Rising in the North," the whole of the vast possessions of this ancient
line were confiscated, and the old Barony of Neville, of Raby, and the
Earldom of Westmoreland, were also rendered null and extinct ; the
noble Earl taking refuge abroad, and dying (a.d. 1584) in comparative
poverty, on a small pittance allowed him by the King of Spain.

The admirable situation and various remains of high antiquity of
our Yorkshire Ingleton, yield the best proof of its occupation at a very
early period. While the poor and barbarous native cave-dwellers do not
appear to have penetrated these inhospitable wilds, but to have harboured
principally the lower parts of Craven, there is no doubt that on the
migration westward of the first invaders, the Goidelic and Brythonic
Celts, this commanding position and look-out post was quickly seized
upon and held by successive tribes up to historic times. In ascribing
this remote appropriation of Ingleton, it must be remembered that while
many towns and villages owe their origin and names to later settlers, the
great natural features of the country, such as the mountains and rivers,
were already named by the earliest Celtic tribes. The Baal or Beltane
fires blazed on the peaks, and here, on Ingleborough, the huts or
habitations lay on the summit, (for summer habitation), and close to the
foot of the mountain, on the sunny side, for winter occupation, some
remains of which we may still see. The Roman conquerors who
established themselves among the ruins of the native races, erected their
fortresses and continued the watch and signal fires on the great hill,
under which ran their constructed highways out of Wensleydale and
over Cam Fell to Ribchester, Lancaster, and the station at Overborough,
called Brenietonacae, only a few miles off to the west, which will be
described later on.

From the prominence of these .Celtic-Roman ingle or beacon fires, and
the borough, or castra exploratum of the Romans, it is not unlikely the
hill received its name, while the village erected at a later period on its
present site, became the ton, town, or enclosure of the fire or beacon-hill.
Gale assumes that Bremetonacae meant the same thing, from the old
British words, Bre Meinig Tane^ i.e., the hill of stone and fire, in allusion
to the outpost on Ingleborough. The Pagan Britons frequently lit fires as
thank-offerings to their deities, and they had great faith in their efficacy or
power to prevent famine, plague, or disease. And it is certainly curious
how this belief has survived at Ingleton even to our own day. Within
the last thirty years or so it was a common practice in this neighbourhood
to kindle the so-called Need-fire by rubbing two pieces of wood briskly
together, and setting a-blaze a large heap of sticks and brushwood, which
were dispersed, and cattle then driven through the smoking brands.
This was thought to act as a charm against the spread or development of

207

the various ailments to which cattle are liable. It is a singularly
interesting custom, which is still kept up in some parts of Britain with
the same object.

With this explanation it seems almost needless to discuss the relation
of the Saxon and Danish Conquests with the origin of Tngleton. But I
may point out, what does not seem to have been considered, the historic
importance which the Danish invasion has given to this neighbourhood,
as testified in part by the remains of earthworks, &c, and by the numerous
existing place-names of that origin. These bold and fearless Norsemen
carried their warlike enterprises from the sea-board of England to the
very mountain fastnesses of Yorkshire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland,
leaving behind them ample evidence of their conquests and habitations
in the numerous scars* garths, dales, forces, gilte, hinds, thwaites, and
btfs, which abound in these parts. Of the single suffix by (a town), it
may be mentioned, that in the north-west of Yorkshire and in the two
adjoining counties of Westmoreland and Cumberland, fully one hundred
examples may be cited of names formed of this Danish terminal.

But with all deference to these Danish Conquests it is, perhaps,
nothing more than a verbal coincidence that the celebrated Yngvi or
Ingvi, bon of the great King-god Odin, has bequeathed in his name
some resemblance to the appellation of the later Danish settlement of
Ingleton. The comparison may, perhaps, end here, but it will not be
going out of our way to draw a few inferences from the analogy. The
triumphant battle-march of Odin from the Caspian to the Baltic, and
his subsequent conquest of Denmark and Scandinavia, excited the fear
no less than it won the tribute and homage of nations, and by common
consent the regal title and office was eventually bestowed by the Swedes
upon his son Ingvi and his posterity, and thus sprang the long and
renowned dynasty of the Inglingians, a name by which the Kings of
Sweden continued to be known until the seventh century, and the Kings
of Norway, from that period until the fourteenth. Of the fabulouB
power of Odin, the mystical father, we have some rare and curious
instances. He could sing, we are told, airs so tender and melodious,
" that the very plains and mountains would open and expand with
delight, and that the ghosts attracted by the sweetness of his songs,
would leave their infernal caverns, and stealing up to the dulcet sounds,
stand motionless about him. 91 The legend of the historical Odin is
founded on the authority of the Inglinga Saga, which forms the first
book of Snorr's " Heimskringla," or " Chronicles of the Kings of
Norway."

To this remarkable personage and his successors are probably owing
the names of many places and districts to which their conquests extended.
In Denmark and Sweden the name appears to be most commonly

208

commemorated, and it is also in these countries that cairns, barrows,
and tumuli, similar to our Yorkshire ones, are perhaps more numerous
than anywhere else in the world. Such, for example, is the famous
Inglinge Hog, about 1 \ miles south of Vexio, in Sweden, which is a large
and ancient tumulus, commanding a wide view, and was undoubtedly
once a place of assize, similar to that which the name (with camp) of
our own Yarlsber at Ingleton, already described, seems to imply. Again,
may be mentioned Ingelsholm, in Denmark, in the vicinity of many
antiquities, Engelsberg, in Sweden, between Dalarne and Stockholm, on
the shores of Lake Amanningen. It is noteworthy that our Ingleton is
in old charters sometimes also written Engelton, and Yngleton. In
Domesday (a.d. 1086) it is, however, Inglestune, i.e. the fire town.

To quit, however, the region of speculation, let us now quote this
valuable historic record. The locality is thus defined :

Manor, in Witeune (Whittington), Earl Tosti had six carucates of land to be
taxed.

In Neutune (Newton) two carucates ; Ergune (Arum, or Arkholme) six
carucates ; Ghersincture (Gressingham) two carucates ; Ho turn (Hutton) three
carucates ; Cantesfelt (Cantsfield) three carucates ; Irebi (Ireby) three carucates ;
Borch (Overhurrow) three carucates ; Lech (Leek) three carucates.

Borctune (Burton-in-Lonsdale) four carucates ; Bernulfeswic (Barnoldswick)
one carucate ; Inglestune (Ingleton) six carucates ; Castretum (Casterton) three
carucates ; Bercbrune (Barbon) three carucates ; Sedberge (Sedbergh) three
carucates ; Tiernbi (Thirnby or Thornby), six carucates.

All these villages belong to Witetune (Whittington).

Although Ingleton was but a dependent village of Whittington, yet
the large extent, at least 600 acres, of cultivated land here, (small, indeed,
in comparison with the total area,) and the absence of any mention of
waste within the manor, says something for the peaceful occupation of
the Danes, whose clemency had probably been purchased by the native
Saxons, and their churches and houses spared ; as also of its isolation
from the after ravages of the Norman Conquest. The capital Saxon
town, Whittington, now a small village, (2 miles south of Kirkby
Lonsdale), and a parish of some 350 souls, was, I suppose, so called
from its being conspicuously constructed of stone, while the surrounding
villages consisted, as was the custom then, of an assemblage of wooden
huts. Churches, indeed, when first built of stone, were often designated
white churches, to distinguish them from those built of w T ood.

The above Earl Tosti, who was the last Saxon to hold the manor
before the Conquest, was chief minister to Edward the Confessor. Of
his tyranny and cruelty, when ruler of Northumbria, the following
citation by Roger of Wendover affords remarkable testimony : " Tosti
quitted the King's court in a rage, and coming to the city of Hereford*
where his brother Harold had prepared a great feast for the king, he cut

209

off the limbs of all the servants, and put an arm, or some other member,
in each of the vessels of wine, mead, ale, or pickle ; after which he sent
a message to the King, that on coming to his lodgings, he would find
the food seasoned to his mind, and that he should take care to carry
away the delicacies with him !" Such were the wages of the servants of
Royalty at that happy period ! Earl Tosti was slain in the deadly
conflict for the supremacy of England, at Stamford Bridge, Sept. 25th,
1066, and three weeks later his brother Harold, King of England, fell on
the memorable field of Hastings.

On the accession of William the Norman, the land was parcelled out
amongst his followers, and the powerful Roger de Mowbray acquired an
extensive tract in these parts with other possessions in Yorkshire, notably
in that part of the county now known as the Vale of Mowbray. In
Ewecross the lands of this house extended from the north-west of Craven
to the borders of "Westmoreland, and Burton-in-Lonsdale was the head
and stronghold of this western barony. In the 35th Edward I., a.d.
1806, John de Mowbray obtained a charter for a market and fair within
his manor of Burton-in-Lonesdale.* On the 1st June, 18th Edward I.,
A.D. 1290, the Parliament granted an Aid of 40s. from each Knight's
Fee in the kingdom, for the marriage of the King's eldest daughter,
which, however, was not collected until twelve years afterwards. Among
the donations to this Aid in the wapentake of Ewecross are the sums of
6s. 8d. each contributed by the villa of Ingleton and Bentham, prescribed
as follows :

Ingleton. De Johanne filio Hugonis pro tribus car. terrae in Ingleton, undo
xviij car., etc. vjs. viijd. q.

Bentham. De eodem Johanne pro tribus car. terrte in Bentham. unde, ut
Bupra vja. viijd. q.

The Inquisition post mortem of the above John Fitz Hugh, who
married Isabella, daughter and heiress of Michael de Ryhill, was taken
13th Jan., 34th Edward I. The jurors say that —

" HenricuB Alius Johannis filii Hugonis est propinquior haeres ejus, et fuit
fie tat is trium annorum ad festum Sancti Edmundi Regis et Mart) tub proximo
prseteritum." Est etiara nova inquisitio ad inquirendum quis sit dominus de
Burton in Lonesdale, de quo manerium de Ingleton tenetur in capite : — "Johannes
filius Rogeri le Moubray est dominus de Burton qui infra aetatem est et in
custodia domini regis. Et Roysia, quae fuit uxor Rogeri le Moubray dotata est per
ipsum dominuui regem de prsedicto manerio de Burton.''* This particular Roger
de Mowbray, it should be stated, was the third baron of that title.

In the Nomina Villarum^ of 9th Edward II., A.D. 1315, or return
made by the sheriffs of England of the wapentakes or hundreds, and who
were the lords thereof, we find the same Henry Fitz Hugh possessed of

• Cal. Hot. Chart., 138. f Cal. Gen. II, 679.

210

" Denton* and Ingleton (2 villae)," and 44 Dent and Sadburgh (2
villas)," in the wapentake of " Youcross."

Passing through various hands up to the dissolution of religious
houses, we find that in the 21st of Henry VIII. (a.d. 1529), the
44 Manor of Ynglcton with lands in Yngleton and Benton,* and the
advowson of Benton Church," were transferred from Sir William
Pickering, Kt., unto Sir Edward Guildford, Kt., Sir Edward Boynton,
Kt., and Richard Page, Esq., for a consideration of £600 sterling. In
the reign of Elizabeth the manors of Ingleton and Bentham passed, as
already stated, to the distinguished family of Cholmondeley or Cholmeley,
one of the most important families in the north of England at that
period. Sir Richard Cholmeley, who was brother-in-law to Henry
Neville, 5th Earl of Westmoreland, married twice ; 1st, a daughter of
Lord Conyers, and 2ndly, a daughter of the Earl of Cumberland. He
entered into a protracted and costly litigation with the inhabitants of
Ingleton with respect to their customary tenant-rights, and which
dispute was carried on by his son, Richard Cholmeley, the succeeding
lord of the manor, with so much severity that the township for a time
seems to have been almost ruined. 44 For where the said Tenants had
always heretofore used and been able to keep above four-score draught
oxen upon their said tenements within the said Manor, they were so
spoiled by the said hard and extream Dealings of the said Defendant
and by multiplicity of Suites that there was not one Tenant within the
said Lordship that had one Ox of his own, or almost any other cattle,
but were enforced to Sell up all their goods and Chattels to defend their
said customary Estates and Tenant Right against the said Defendant ;
and although there were then within the said Lordship a hundred able
persons for Her Majesty's Service, if need should require, yet among
them all there was very few or none at all able to furnish one man fit for
service by reason of the said hard dealings of the said Defendant, which
would tend to the utter undoing and beggaring of the said poor
customary Tenants, their poor wives and children, in short time, if some
remedy were not therein speedily had and provided."

These ancient rights and hereditaments of the tenants of Ingleton,
as set forth in the time of Queen Elizabeth, are interesting, and shew
the favourable manner under which the farmholds were occupied subject
to the military feud :

li The Custom of which said Manor of Ingleton is, and time whereof the memory
of man was not to the contrary, had been that the said Tenants of the said Manor
for the time being should and had used to pay at the end of every seven years, one
year's rent for a tine to the Lord of the said Manor for the time being, for and in
the name of a Running Grossom or Town Term, payable at three Court Days next
ensuing after the end and expiration of the said seven years by even portions.

* A misprint for Bentham.

211

Together with one Tack Penny at the change of every Lord and Tenant, and no
other Fine or Grossom until encroachment was made of late time within Memory,
and that by the same Custom there allowed and used always, the several tenements
of every tenant within the said Manor, after the death of the said Tenant ought
to descend to the next Male of the body of such deceased Tenant lawfully begotten,
and for default of such issue Male, then to the eldest of the heirs Female of such
Tenant so deceased, and to the Heirs Male of such issue female lawfully begotten,
and for default of such issue, to the next of kin of the nearest blood of such
Tenant so deceased, and of his heirs for ever ; and that by the same custom, it
was and always hath been well and lawfull to and for every or any Tenant within
the same Manor to grant, alien, or Sell his or their several tenements with the
appurtenances by Deed, Will, or Surrender to any person or persons whatsoever,
without the License or consent of the Lord of the same Manor for the time being,
or any of his officers, and the same alienation to be presented and entered at the
next Court holden at the said Manor before the Steward there."

By Decree of the Master of the Rolls in the Court of Chancery, and
of the Right Hon. Sir John Pickering, Kt., Lord Keeper of the Seal,
dated 23rd June, 34th Elizabeth, (a.d. 1591), these differences were at
length adjusted, and put on a strictly legal basis, the lord to exercise his
right and control over the said lands and appurtenances, while the
tenants retained most of their ancient prerogatives, claiming turbary
and repair from the lord's woods and wastes, or " from time to time, as
need shall be, to have and to take competent Fire Boot, House Boot,
Plough Boot, Cart Boot, Hedge Boot, and all necessary Boots to be
necessarily expended upon their customary lands and tenements within
the said manor without any waste, spoil, or sale to be made thereof, as
well as out of the Common Woods within the said Manor by the delivery
of the Lord or Lords of the Manor for the time being, or of their
bailiffs or other officers as heretofore accustomed."

From Richard Cholmeley, the manor, along with that of Bentham,
was leased to the Lowthers, of Lowther Hall, Co. Westmoreland, as
narrated in our account of Bentham, and from that family it passed to
Henry Bouch, and afterwards by marriage to the Parkers, of Browsholme.
Various members of the distinguished Lowther and Bouch families were
long resident at Ingleton Hall, and there are numerous entries relating
to them in the Ingleton church registers. Sir Gerard Lowther, Kt., of
St. Michar's, Dublin, 4th son of Sir Richard Lowther, Kt., of Lowther
Hall, (a.d. 1530 — 1607), and nephew of Gerard Lowther, M.P., of
Penrith, was Chief Justice of the court of Common Pleas in Ireland,
and eventually, in 1654, Lord High Chancellor of that Kingdom. He
was thrice married ; his first wife being Anne Welbury, widow, — daughter
and co-heir of Sir Ralph Bulmer, of Wilton, — who appears to have died
at Ingleton Hall, as the parish registers, under date, Oct. 13th, 1619,
record the burial of Lady Anne, wife of Sir Gerard Lowther, Kt.
Sir Gerard's younger brother, William Lowther, J.P., lived at Ingleton
Hall, and had a numerous family. His eldest son, Sir Richard Lowther, Kt.,
-of Ingleton, Barrister-at-Law and J.P., 1638, was Col. of a regiment of

212

Foot in the Civil Wars, Governor of Pontefract Castle, and Master of
the Ordnance to King Charles I. He died at Newcastle. Another of
William Lowther's sons was Robert Lowther, Chancellor of Carlisle in
1666. lie also left two daughters ; Anne, subsequently the sole heiress,
married to T. Heber, Esq., of Marton and Stainton ; and Eleanor,
married first to William Newby, Esq., of Draughton, near Skipton, and
secondly to Henry Currer, Esq., of Kildwick. The above Sir Richard
Lowther, of Ingleton, left a family of sons and daughters, of whom
Henry Lowther, the 2nd son, resided at Ingleton and at Lowther Town,
Cockermouth. Leaving an only daughter, the Ingleton estates were
disposed of to the family of Bouch, as stated above.

Of Mr. Edward Parker, who succeeded his father as lord of the
manor of Ingleton, and who died in 1794, we have an interesting note
from the poet Gray. The celebrated author of the " Elegy," in
describing his journey from Poulton, or Morecambe, to Ingleton, in the
autumn of 1769, remarks, "Now, our road began gradually to mount
towards the Apennine, the trees growing less and thinner of leaves, till
we came to Ingleton. It is a pretty village, situated very high, and yet
in a valley at the foot of that huge monster of nature, Ingleborough."
Here, it seems, he took refreshment at the inn, and met there, " Sir
Bellingham Graham, and Mr. Parker, lord of the manor, — one of them
six feet high, and the other as much in breadth ! "

The Manor of Twisleton and Ellerbeck appears always to have been
distinct from that of Ingleton, and the same differences likewise arose
between the then lord of the manor, Richard Sherborne, Esq., of
Twisleton, and the tenants, concerning the fines, customs, and service
due from the tenants in respect of their feudal tenements and lands,
about the time of, or consequent upon, the dispute with the Ingleton
tenantry, above described. The Twisleton claims were settled by Decree,
dated October 1st, 1625, by which, amongst other arrangements, the said
Richard Sherborne, lord of the manor, undertook to enclose and improve
90 acres of waste, to remain to himself and his heirs and assigns for
ever ; while 190 acres of waste were to be improved and enclosed by the
various tenants, and " to remain to them and their heirs and assigns for
ever, according to the several proportions by the valuation of their
several tenements." As shewing who were resident in the district at
this time (a.d. 1625) it will be interesting to add the names of the
parties to this important agreement, viz., Richard Shereborne, of
Twisleton, in the County of York, Esq., Lord of the said Manor, of the
one part, and John Green bank, of Twisleton, Leonard Greenbank, the
Brother of the said John, Richard Bathe, Thomas Greenbank, William
Greenbank, Thomas Calvert, John Craven, William Wood, Leonard
Weatherhead, William Bathe, Peter Foster, Marie Heard, widow, on

213

behalf of her daughter Jennet, William Tatham, William Comeinge,
Thomas Charneley, Leonard Wetherhead, of Scales, Leonard Procter, of
Ellerbeck, and Alexr. Procter, of Skirreth, in the said County,
husbandmen, on the other part. The Writing in full was confirmed by
Decree, dated 12th Oct., 17th Charles I. (a.d. 1631).

Amongst the oldest Ingleton families, as cited in the parish register,
which commences with the year 1G07, are those of Procter, Carr,
Balderston, Gibson, Foxcroft, Butterfield, Craven, Redmane, Cansfield,
Kidd, Beasley, Bouskill, Downham, Charneley, Thompson, Tatham,
Lawson, &c. The names of Lowther and Shereborne, which also occur,
have already been specially noticed. In a later book of registers, a.d.
1723 to 1792, we meet with a number of rather uncommon names, such
as Rumla, Griffeys, Tolmin, Blenckhorn, Faldrath, Kubbage, and Koon.
There is a smack of the old Dane in some of these.

In the Assessment of the wapentake of Ewecross for the year 1 584,
Ingleton, Dent, and Sedbergh are each assessed at 4s., Bentham,
Clapham, and Austwick at 2s. 8d., Horton-in-Ribblesdale and Burton-
in-Lonsdale at 2s 6d., and Thornton at 2s.

The parcchial chapel at Ingleton is of undoubted antiquity, but of
its origin we have no record. It was formerly in the parish of Bentham,
and a dependency of the See of Chester. The date of the tower is
usually assigned to the 15th century, but the church, with this exception,
has been since several times rebuilt. The body of the last fabric, erected
in 1743, was pulled down in 1886-7, and the present structure, which is
of mountain limestone, built up to the old tower on its site. During
the restoration at the tower end, a large plaster fresco was uncovered,
but the subject is partly erased and difficult to determine. There is a
painted Royal Arms of the time of George IV., many beautiful
stain-glass windows, and a pulpit in Caen stone with Connemara marble
pillars, of very neat and chaste design. The latter was the gift of Mr.
Alfred S. Kirk, ot Greenwood Leghe, who also presented the choir-stalls,
each of which has been carved in a different pattern by Carlisle, of
B;irbon. The oak reredos, presented by Mr. R. B. Cragg, is also by the
same artist. But the most remarkable object within the church is the
Norman font, which is of circular form, and exquisitely sculptured in
sections with many illustrative designs from the history of Christ,
including the Virgin and Child, the presentation of the Magi, the
Massacre of the Innocents, &c. Portions of the carvings are unhappily
disfigured, and their subjects cannot be properly identified. This
beautiful and unique relic of the first Norman building was fortunately
rescued from a sacrilegious destruction by Dr. Whitaker, the historian.
The font, when he found it, was thickly encrusted with lime, and had
been used as a trough for mixing mortar, and afterwards as a whitewash

214

bowl for daubing the columns and arches of the old church. Perhaps it
is this species of " decoration " which is referred to in the Minute-book
for 1747, wherein it is stated, " the said Chapel being now lately rebuilt
is in good and sufficient repair, and well beautified." A large and
ancient gilt sun-dial, which was fixed above the old porch, bears the
appropriate motto, " Dum spectas fuyio" meaning, "whilst thou lookest,
I fly." The church clock, according to the above Minute-book, dates
apparently from about 1750.

The following peculiarly interesting account of some Ingleton
notabilities is related by the Rev. W. D. Thompson, late vicar of St.
Saviour's Church, Preston, in the Preston Chronicle of Aug. 10th, 1889.
" In the West Riding of Yorkshire there is a village under the shadow
of Ingleborough Hill [Ingleton.] It is a small place now ; it was very
small three and forty years ago. Well, you expect pretty considerable
results — something worth thinking about — from big places : but you
don't, and can't expect anything worth a line from a tiny out-of-the-way
spot like this one in the West Riding. But, listen ! Forty-three years
ago there were going to school, all at the same time, in this small place,
sundry very rough, rollicking lads, and they turned out in after years
thuswise, — No. 1, became the first Vicar of St. Saviour's, Preston ; 2,
got to be Master of the Village School, and he is now a Vicar in
Westmoreland ; 3, is one of the principal Ministers in Scotland, and he
was second in the running, when the last vacancy occurred, for the
Episcopalian Bishopric of Aberdeen ; 4, is the Proprietor and Editor of
a Lancashire newspaper ; 5, is a Sub-editor of a leading journal in
Cumberland ; 6, a Solicitor ; and 7, is a Colliery manager. A rather
extraordinary band to be all going to school simultaneously in a little
out-of-the-way Yorkshire village." The master of the school at this
auspicious period was Mr. Robert Danson, who was instituted in Jan.,
1838, and died prematurely by a throw from his horse at Martinmas,
1855.

Among the several private mansions in the neighbourhood are
Greenwood Leghe, the seat of A. S. Kirk, Esq., who has recently
built the handsome residence called Moorgarth Hall, at . Rarber ;
Ingleton Hall, rebuilt near the old homestead of the former manorial
lords ; Storrs Hall, now a high-class ladies' school conducted by the
Misses Brown ; Halsteads, at Thornton, of which more anon, and others.
All these mansions are delightfully situated, and their windows command
views of great interest and beauty.

There is, however, nothing specially noteworthy in the way of public
buildings at Ingleton. It is a long, straggling village, climbing the
road to Ingleborough, which guardian peak rises just 1900 feet above it
to the north. The village is built chiefly of limestone, and there are

215

some very old dated houses. One of the oldest is the Cross farm-house,
for nearly two centuries used as the parish workhouse. Another is the
Blue Hall (date, 1668) opposite the National School, and another near
the church, formerly an inn called the Black Bull, has the lintel over
the door inscribed 1710. But the oldest is probably that known as the
Cock inn, on the Ingleton Hall road, below the railway bridge. It was
formerly a well-known trysting place of cock-fighters, and it is said that
more than one dark deed of crime has been perpetrated within its rooms.
One of its old .floors shewed many ominous blood stains, which no
amount of scrubbing could ever remove. The house, of three gables,
was probably built in the time of James I., but it has been much altered
and improved. A carved oak partition inside bears the date 1616, — the
date, by the way, of the immortal Shakespeare's death.

And now, was it not this great bard who thus daintily wrote,

I know a bank whereon the wild thyme blows,
Where ox-lips and the nodding violet grows ;
Quite over-canopied with lush woodbine.
With sweet musk roses, and with eglantine.

But we must reserve our reference to these sweet scenes of local beauty
until a succeeding chapter. Nowhere in the world does the poet's " wild
thyme " grow more luxuriantly or fragrantly than on the posied "banks"
around Ingleton.

Since the formation of the " Improvement Association/' seven years
ago, the place has become extremely popular as a health and pleasure
resort, and there has been a considerable extension of building operations
in the neighbourhood. The village is approached by two branch lines
of railway, the Midland, and London and North Western ; their stations,
a few hundred yards apart, being separated by the southern embouchure
of the deep and romantic glen, formed by the Greta, above which
Ingleton stands, and which is spanned by a lofty viaduct of eleven arches.

There are several good large hotels and temperance inns, besides
innumerable private houses where ample accommodation for day-visitors,
or families prolonging their stay, can be obtained. It is to be regretted,
however, that while the facilities of access have been greatly increased,
the erection of various boxes and stalls, and huge advertisement-boards
and printed placards, are becoming a much too conspicuous eye-sore
upon the great natural charms of the place. A large dam, or lake, in
one of the sweetest natural glens in England has even been talked of,
but surely such an artificial intrusion upon the grandeur of Nature
cannot be a sober projection. The next move, perhaps, would be to lay
metals up Ingleborough, and run a hydraulic tram to the summit ; then
the ruin of Ingleton would l)e complete. But a truce to the thought !
That is surely not prosperity which seeks aggrandisement while it
degrades rather than elevates the nobler instincts.

216

CHAPTER XIX.

Scientific aspects of the Ingleton Scenery.

Causes of the scenery about Ingleton — The various rock formations — The Ingleton
Coalfield — The great Craven Fault— Sub-divisions of the Fault — Their several
directions explained — Immensity of the downthrow— Analysis of the Ingleton
Faults— The age of the Craven Fault — Igneous Dykes — Effects of the Ice Age
at Ingleton— Glacial drift and boulders — An extraordinary fragment— Ancient
lake — Examples of ice-borne boulders.

UR aim in this chapter will be to make clear the causes of the
magnificent scenery of the neighbourhood of Ingleton.
Although, in order to do this, we must have recourse to the
language of science, vet we shall endeavour to arrange our
facts as simply and concisely as possible.

The foundations of the district range upwards from some of the
oldest known British rocks, — the Lower Silurian, or Upper Cambrian of
Sedgwick, — .with some remarkable injections of volcanic dykes, to the
most recent superficial deposits. The main mass of strata, however, is
the Mountain Limestone, (of marine origin), which is here about 700 feet
thick, and which attains on the south-west side of Ingleborough an
altitude of about 1500 feet. Over this are laid the Yoredale beds, —
including a complication of shales, sandstones, and limestones — capped
with the lowest of the Millstone Grits, or fresh-water beds, which on the
south side of the great Fault, to be presently mentioned, is overlaid with
a representative of the Permian series, and some of the Lower Coal
Measures. These various strata, which form the structure and general
arrangement of the whole of the mountain ranges of the district, have
been displaced by a number of faults, and have been subsequently worn
down by denudation, that is, by the action of wind, rain, and frost, so
that what we now see is the mere wreck and residue of their former
primal aspects. Indeed it is probable that the whole of these great
mountain masses, now isolated by water erosion and atmospheric
denudation, were once a continuous and undivided area composed of the
same measures, and that the analogous coalfields of Wigan, Ingleton,
and the South Tyne were co-existent and united, and that vast areas
have, in the slow course of ages, been broken up and denuded away.

217

"With respect to the Ingleton and Burton coalfield, Mr. R. H . Tiddeman,
M.A., of H.M. Geological Survey, observes, " There are great difficulties
in the way of an accurate diagnosis of some of the area, and on the
whole an acknowledged ignorance will be safer than a rash confidence in
dealing with these parts.

Commencing with what we know as absolutely certain, we may say
that so far as the exploration of the Coalfield has progressed, it contains
two good workable coal-seams, the Four-foot or Main, which is the best,
and the Six-foot or Deep Coal, and that the former lies about 85 feet
above the latter. Both of these beds have been worked along the outcrop
from near Black Burton to a little south of Ingleton in numerous
" hand-pits," and subsequently the Four-foot has been worked by deep
shafts in several places.

The extent of the Coalfield is unknown and so far untried. It
certainly does not exist west of Burton,* nor further east than the
Craven Fault near Ingleton, but of its extent to the north it is difficult
to judge. The southern extent is of course well defined by the worked
outcrop, but not so the northern boundary ; that can be but conjectural,
considering the absence of sections and the thick spread of Drift to the
south-east of Kirkby Lonsdale ; Coal-Measures, however, being distinctly
shown in Leek Beck."

Turning now to our old friend and venerable companion of many
a diverting ramble, the well-known Craven Fault, so-called, or what is
rather a complication of faults, which give rise to the main features of
scenic interest in the neighbourhood, let us first of all hear what our
government surveyors have to say on the subject about Ingleton.

u The Craven Fault consists of two parallel lines of fracture, each
with a downthrow west, and distinguished as the North and South
Craven Faults. Between the two lies a mass of Carboniferous Limestone,
dipping generally to the south-west at a high angle, but not infrequently
turning over and dipping east or north-east near the North Craven Fault.
The position of this northern branch is got pretty accurately both in
Jenkin Beck and in the Dale Beck, in both of which the thrown-down
Carboniferous and the Silurian rocks aire seen near each other, but it is
more fully exposed in Thornton Beck, at the angle north-east of Thornton
Hall, where its course coincides with that of the stream for some distance.
It hades at 30° or 35° from the vertical, and the beds near are a good
deal smashed. A trial level has been made here, apparently for lead, but
without result. Further to the north-west the fault seems to divide, the
main part going by the point marked 882,| at a junction of roads, [half-

* The Coal-seams of Farleton, Lowgill, Caton, &c.,to the south and Bouth-west
belong to the Millstone Grit Series.

t Ordnance Map, AVw Series, Sheet 50.

218

mile north of Thornton Hall,] while a branch passes by Hunt's Cross,
probably without* much ' throw,' but marked by much dun limestone
with calcite along its course.

" The position of the South Craven Fault is exactly given in Jenkin
Beck, where we find sandstone (Coal-Measures) on the west side opposed
to the limestone on the east, but north-west from this we infer its course
from the ending off of the limestone along a well-defined line. There
was an indication of shale having been got out in making the chimney
of the Mealbank Limeworks, on the west side of the fault. South of
Jenkin Beck the courses of both faults become obscure, owing to the
Drift.

u The throw of the North Craven Fault seems greatest about Jenkin
Beck. Near it the section on the west side is somewhat complicated
apparently by other faults, but a mass of shale seen in one place and
apparently sandstone in another, indicate the presence of Yoredale Beds,
which are opposed to Silurian rocks on the east side of the dislocation,
so that the throw must be greater than the thickness of the Great Scar
Limestone, or over 600 feet. A little to the east of the fault we find
dun limestone along a north and south line. A similar vein, with traces
of iron and copper carbonates, lies near the South Craven Fault. Close
by, on the north side of Jenkin Beck, a remarkable set of narrow joints,
like a rough kind of cleavage, traverses the limestone, the planes striking
N. 40 W. and dipping at 55° to the N.E."

These displacements are by some authorities regarded as lateral
branches or disturbances resulting from the great Pennine system of
faults, the main line of which, corresponding with the Pennine elevation,
runs in a direction N.N.TV. to S.S.E. from Dumfriesshire to about
Brough or Kirkby Lonsdale. At the last-mentioned place, according to
Prof. Phillips, the Pennine Fault ends and the Craven Fault begins, but
Prof. Sedgwick begins the Craven Fault some distance further north, at
Brough. The courses of the three main divisions of the Craven Fault
may be thus shortly elucidated :

1. The North Craven Fault runs from the north of Ingleton and Clap ham, by
Feizor, Stainforth in the Ribble valley, Malham Tarn and Threshfield, to and
perhnpB beyond Pateley Bridge.

2. The Mid Craven Fault runs through Ingleton, ouly a short distance south
of the other, and traverses Claphnm, Austwick, thence below the .picturesque
Giggleswick Scars, through the village of that name, and Settle to Malham Cove
and Gordale.

3. The South Craven Fault branches off from this near Settle, and taking a
more southerly course, passes by Scaleber Force and- Holmes Gill Green to
Gargrave and Skipton.

At Ingleton the Faults may be traced in their several parallel branches,
intersecting and breaking the horizontalitv of the beck courses to the

219

north of the town, in a direction from N.W. to S.E. And on the south
and west of the escarpment, the underlying coal measures, which crop
out and thin off southwards, along with the associated Permian beds,
both of which in reality overlie the grits of the top of Ingleborough,
Whernside, <fcc., and represent a downthrow to the west of about 3000
feet,— a tremendous displacement, which is continued northwards for a
distance of nearly 45 miles. These faults at Ingleton occupy a space
about a half-mile in width, and may be thus further analysed :

1. The Twisleton Fault, the most northern of the series, enters by the depression
north of Hunt's Cross (a remarkable crescentic scarp forming the southern
boundary of Greygarth) and taking, as previously stated, a south-easterly course,
crosses the Twiss by Pecca Falls, thence behind the Twisleton Manor House*
across the Dale beck to the south of the slate quarries nearest Ingleton, and by
Skirwith Farm across the Storrs to Jenkin Beck above the Ease Gill waterfall.
Along this line the Mountain Limestone is thrown down at a steep angle against
the upturned Silurians, the total downslip being estimated at about 300 feet.

2 & 3. From 82 to 100 yards south of the preceding, and almost parallel with
it, another fault or line of convulsion is evident, in which two or three irregularly
constituted dykes of dark mica-trap appear. Again, 60 to 65 yards to the south of
this the horizontal Mountain Limestone is brought up at a moderate angle against
the shales of the Lower Silurian (Coniston) Limestone. It proceeds from Tow
Scar, on the south-west of Greygarth, crossing the Twiss below Pecca, and the Doe
by Beasley Grange, where the Carboniferous Limestone dips S.W. into the bed of
the river at an angle of 15°. This is called the Tow Scar (Mid Craven) Fault, and
is conjoint with that just described, which is apparent by the double anticlinal
lines converging at their north-western extremities.

4. The Thornton Hall Fault coincides in its direction with the above, and
passes from Thornton Hall across Broad wood, north of the Weir, and Meal Bank \
behind Blue Hall, the Court House, and the depression above Yarlsber and
Slatingber, to Cold Cotes and New by, whence it divides eastwards, forming the
southern branch of the Craven Fault.

At Hollin Tree, some 600 to 700 yards south of the last-named, Mr.
Robert Balderston, of Ingleton, finds indications of what may be another
fault, as the red beds, he observes, " are suddenly found dipping north
at an angle of 36°5, indicating a fault of double angular displacement
of very considerable extent, and running from Hollin Tree to Greenwood
Leghe."

With regard to the age of the Craven faults they are usually
considered to have been formed at the end of the Carboniferous period,
or before the deposition of the Permian beds, and if not concurrently at
any rate within the same geological epoch. In a short paper read at the
Newcastle-upon-Tyne Meeting of the British Association in 1889, Mr.
Tiddeman made this advance : " The great denudations," he observes,
" which are well known to have taken place in Carboniferous rocks
between their formation and the deposition of the Permian rocks, have
rendered possible the deposit of the latter on various members of the

220

-Carboniferous System at different horizons. Before these could be
effected, many of the earth movements must have taken place which
folded and bent the Carboniferous rocks. So great are these movements,
iflo enormous the denudation, that there is every probability that they
began their work early.

" This corroborates the view that the faults were in the main acting
■during the deposition of the rocks ; though they probably went on before,
and certainly after that period. There are other sections in the
.surrounding country, apparent unconformities in the Carboniferous
rocks, which are difficult to understand under any other supposition."

Having alluded to the curious eruptive dykes, or solidified lava-flows
in the up-tilted Silurian strata at Ingleton, which are the only igneous
Tocks of the kind exposed in Yorkshire, (and are said to be of Old Red
Sandstone age) I shall again quote the official Survey Memoirs, as
■affording the best authoritative explanation that is given of these
complicated and most interesting features :

The only igneous rock seen in the Quarter-Sheet occurs in the Lower Silurian
strata near Ingleton. Portions of a dyke or dykes appear in three or four places.
The most westerly of these lies in Thornton Beck near the large fault which brings
the Scar Limestone against the Silurian beds. The dyke is visible for 10 or 12
feet above the middle of the bend of the stream, which here runs S.E. It seems
to be about 4 feet wide, but may be more, and is only found in the bed of the
stream.

Again in the road south of Skirwith a dyke of mica-trap appears for a short
distance, and is also noticeable just over the wall on the south side of the road. It
is only a few feet wide, and like the preceding is much weathered at the surface,
so that it is difficult to get a good specimen for microscopic examination. Here
Again the dyke lies very near the fault mentioned before. Between these two
places a dyke of somewhat similar character projects from the south bank of
Ingleton Beck into the stream. More of it is exposed than in the other two cases,
so that one can clearly detect its bearing, viz., £. 40° S., and determine its width
to be 8 to 9 feet. This dyke lies a good way from the fault, but it is possible that
.all three are parts of one kersantite dyke, much decomposed at the surface.
Professor Hughes has noticed another dyke of a similar character and 9 feet broad,
further down the stream, near a sharp bend, and Sedgwick mentions two dykes in
Ingleton Beck*, but only the upper one was visible in 1883. Phillips also mentions
two dykes as seen in Ingleton Beck.f

Petrological notes on specimens of the dykes described above are
furnished by Mr. F. Rutley, in the Memoirs of the Geological Survey
{1890), pp. 16—17.

I fear this chapter is becoming unduly long, but whilst dealing with
the scientific aspects of Ingleton a word or two should be added about
the extraordinary deposits of glacial drift, which invest ,with a special
interest this romantic neighbourhood. The very striking and remarkable

• Ordnance Map, X*w Series, Sheet 60.

+ Mr. R, R. Balderston notices upwards of fifty exposures of the Ingleton Traps in an
•exhaustive article on the subject in the Naturalist for 1889, pp. 131—142.

221

phenomena produced by the remote Ice Age in Britain display here the-
same characteristics as in other parts of the Yorkshire Highlands, and
which have been already alluded to*, and these may be studied at
Ingleton with even greater perspicacity than in the glacier-ridden Alps-
of Switzerland at the present day.

There is little doubt that during the first Glacial Period the whole of
this district was a barren, frigid, and coalescent wilderness of ice and
snow, the tops of the mountains, perhaps, alone appearing through the
vast, solitary ioe-sheet. Glacial drift is found on the south-east side of
Inglebbrough at an altitude of 2000 feet, and on the north and west
sides at 1600 to 1700 feet. Consequently the ice in Chapel-le-Dale
must have had a thickness of nearly 1000 feet, while it was much thicker
further north, and the tremendous power of this immense frozen mass,
which ground its way slowly southwards, may be readily ascertained on
viewing the thick deposits of clay or till, morainic debris, and boulders,
(many of prodigious weight,) which have been left behind. Such, for
example, may be mentioned, an enormous block of white encrinital
limestone, — being one of the largest stones known to have been moved
by that agency in Kngland, and which lies at White Stones, on the south
of Simon Fell. It is nearly 70 yards long and about 40 yards at its-
greatest breadth, and is in all probability a fragment of the Main
Limestone detached from the fell top by the descending ice.

Ingleton itself is built on a great thickness of this glacial drift, and
the gills in the neighbourhood have been wholly filled with it. About
the middle of the town it is some 70 feet deep, but to the west, in Enter
Banks and the Broad Wood Bank approaching Swilla Bottom, it is at
least twice that depth. There are also in the neighbourhood evidences
of dried-up lakes. On the west side of the station there is a pretty
extensive peaty flat, adjoining an old gravel terrace, which is, no doubt,
the site of a post-glacial lake. The local drift is composed of sand,
gravel, and some clay, mixed with boulders of varying size and
composition. The streams have cut through its whole thickness to the
rock below, and denudation has further widened the ravines, dislodging
the boulders, which have fallen into their beds, while many of them have
been broken up and reduced to small pebbles by the action of the
descending torrents.

The boulders consist montly of local rock detached by the glaciers
which descended the valleys of the Twiss and Dale Beck. Some of them
may be seen with their smoothed surfaces embedded in, or peeping
above the drift, while others, rough from exposure to the weather, stand
upon the bared surface. None of these are very large, rarely exceeding

* See Norber Boulders, Victoria Cave, &c.

222

six or eight feet in longest measurement. One such may be seen close
to the road leading to the Skirwith limestone quarries, and just below
the gate. It is of a porphyritic character, containing numerous felspar
crystals, and the stone measures 6^ by 4 by 4^ feet. Similar bouldera
may also be found in situ in the quarries of the so-called Ingleton
Granite Company. On the edge of the stream at the foot of Storrs
Common, about half-a-mile above Ingleton, may be seen a number of
felspathic or lava-trap boulders. They are of a dark grey colour, rough
in texture and compactly crystalline, and vary from two to four feet in
width, and six to seven feet long.

Others of an interesting character consist of a peculiar hornblended
porphyry, syenite, or " metamorphic gneiss," which are classed with the
Borrowdale series of the Ordnance Survey. They are very numerous in
the watercourses, being co-extensive with the ancient glacier-flow, to the
west of Ingleton, and are also found up to an altitude of about 800 feet.
They have no doubt been derived from a band or ridge about 400 yards
in width, which stretches across the Chapel-le-Dale valley, about two miles
to the north-west of Ingleton, and at an elevation not above their highest
point of deposit. The rock is now being worked for road metal by the
so-called Ingleton Granite Co. The derivative outcrop may be examined
to advantage in some fields on the south-east side of the river, opposite
to the Twisleton Dale House, and also from 50 to 100 yards north-west
of the same building. At the stream-head here a capital section of the
conglomerate is exposed, and some 150 yards further to the west,
brecciated conglomerate and dark-grey limestone, with corals, are met
with in alternations of 6 or 8 inches to 2 feet in thickness. The
boulders lie in the bed and along each side of the Doe, up to 800 feet
elevation, and some fine examples are lodged in the stream just below
the Cat Leap waterfall, where the Skirwith streamlet enters the Dale
beck. Others of the same type, and of varying dimensions, occupy an
enclosure above Fell End, and adjoining the Bull Copy above the road
on Storrs Common. One of the largest of these ice-moved boulders
measures 10 feet long and 6 to 7 feet in diameter, and stands in a field
belonging to Skirwith Farm, on the north-east side of the highway.
Another large one, of Mountain Limestone, 12 by 9 by 4^ feet, may be
seen in the same area, west of Skirwith.

223

CHAPTER XX.

The Ingleton Glens and Waterfalls.

Gray, Southey, " Barry Cornwall," and Adelaide Anne Procter at Ingleton — Turner,
the painter, at Wethercote Cave, &c. — Recent "discovery" of the Ingleton
glens — Formation of an Improvement Committee — Confusion in local
nomenclature — Place-names explained — The glens and scenery described —
Rare plants— Reautiful views— Scientific peculiarities of Thornton Force —
Raven Ray — An ancient lake— Keld Head- Beasley Glen— Geological aspects
— Rack stone Gill Gorge— Glorious prospect — Silurian Slate quarries— Return
to Ingleton.

T was the great Lord Byron, — poet, dilettante, and globe-trotter
— whose discriminating taste, and extensive acquaintance
with foreign countries, led him to observe that there were
scenes among the Derbyshire hills equal to anything in
Greece or Switzerland. He was also familiar enough with Scotland, and
loved to ramble among the grand, purple-blossomed mountains, which
he declared were the beginning and source of all his poetic inspiration.
But it does not transpire that he ever visited our Yorkshire Highlands,
or was ever at Ingleton. If he had come this way, his admiration would
probably have been expended in a series of eloquent sonnets, which,
appearing in his collected works and finding their way into the
guide-books, would have been the best advertisement that Ingleton could
have had. But neither Byron, Wordsworth, nor any of the great
" Nature poets " came here ; if we except, perhaps, Gray, Southey,
** Barry Cornwall," and Adelaide Anne Procter, of whom more anon.
Southey gives some delightful descriptive touches in his book called The
Doctor, of the adjoining Clmpel-le-Dale,— the birthplace of Doctor Daniel
Dove, and his progenitors, " all Doves and Daniels, in uninterrupted
succession from time immemorial." Gray, to whom we have before
alluded, simply passed through the village, which he designates "pretty,"
on his way to Settle, but like the others, he saw and knew nothing of
the romantic glens to which Ingleton owes no small share of its fame.
Had Turner either, the prince of landscape painters, discovered these
divine scenes, on the occasion of his visit to Ingleton, how his
imagination, working through his magic pencil, would have raised them

224

to a wonderful Alpine sublimity ! But no, he took the road like the
rest ; and walked clean by them to Wethercote, which he sketched among
other places round about.

But the fact must be told, these glens were unknown then, even to
the inhabitants themselves, many of whom looked with doubtful surprise
on the first descriptions of them in the papers. The mystery-brooding
ravines, dark, narrow, and precipitous, and ploughed by innumerable
cataracts, were practically inaccessible to any but the most adventurous
explorers, or to foxes and other small game that sought the seclusion of
their recesses without fear or risk of discovery. And in this condition
these wild glens remained until the " Improvement Committee " was
formed in 1884-5 for opening them out, and laying paths and
constructing bridges for their safe and easy exploration. Before this
time the author remembers penetrating Swilla Bottom from Broadwood
up to Pecca Falls, and thence to Thornton Force, and meeting with such
obstructions of rock, and water, and hanging forest, as well-nigh baffled
progress. In some places it was necessary to swing from tree to tree,
and spring with the utmost caution on to projecting bosses of rock, lest
a false step should have launched him into some yawning watery gulf,
deep below. Not long after this the register of fatal accidents began.

Happily now such improvements have been matfe that the two glens
are accessible to even infirm pedestrians, — the wielder of a crutch may
safely venture — and the scenery of them both, which involves a walk of
some four or five miles, viewed with ease and composure in the course of
a summer afternoon.

Ingleton, indeed, is one of those places which an enlightened and
observant traveller, like the poet Byron, just mentioned. w T ho has eeen
the Alps and other grand climacterics of continental scenery, may visit
again and again with no misgivings of reviving interest, or of detriment
to the recollection of greater scenes. Excepting, perhaps, the noble
scenery of Devil's Bridge, near Aberystwith, I know of no place in this
kingdom where mountain, forest, aud water are more sublimely or
effectively combined than in the two glens formed by the streams of the
Twiss or Doe, and Greta.

A word now as to the nomenclature of these streams, which has
given rise to much confusion, and not a little unfortunate wrangling as
to what really are their proper names. In legal documents relating to
the neighbourhood, in the Ordnance Maps, and other Government
publications, as well as in local guide books, the greatest variance prevails*
In the oldest map procurable on the district, namely Saxton's, (a.d. 1577),
the western beck is called Kinesdale, and the eastern or Chapel-le-Dale y
the Greeta. Whitaker, who wrote nearly a century ago, also called the
stream, which flows through Chapel-le-Dale, Greta ; and Goldsmith, in

225

the first volume of his Natural History \ speaks of the " river Greatah,
in Yorkshire, running underground and rising again ;" but this, although
doubtless intended for the same stream, would apply either to the western
or Kingsdale Beck, or that in Chapel-le-Dale. Indeed the Chapel-le-Dale
beck has been called the Greeta by all our early topographers, while the
Kingsdale beck was regarded merely as a tributary. Both streams have
been, however, indiscriminately designated Greata, Greeta, or Gretah,
(i.e., the great stream), which no doubt arises from the fact that the main
water from its confluence at Ingleton to its junction with the Lune is,
and has been always, known by that name. Therefore, in following the
river up above its bifurcation at Ingleton into the two glens, which run
somewhat in the shape of the letter Y, the same name has been carelessly
and irrespectively applied to both.

It must also be noted that in all the older maps the hamlet now
called Chapel-le-Dale appears as Wisedale, and the little chapel as
Wisedale Chapel, and is so referred to by Sir Henry Spelman in the
"Villare Anglicanum" (a.d. 1678.) Thus the water flowing through
this valley from the Chapel Houses downward, is called by some
topographers the river Wease, Wase, or Wise, not, as has been supposed,
that it is a contracted form or modification of the word Twiss, which is
the name of the Kingsdale stream, but is simply so designated from the
ancient name of the hamlet as just stated. And Wease, or Wisedale, is
undoubtedly so called from the A.S. Woes, or modern German, Wiese, a
pasture or meadow, in reference to the plots of cultivation that prevailed
at this part, when the surrounding dale in the Saxon period was probably
untenanted and barren.

Concerning the two upper streams, which united form the Greta at
Ingleton, these have borne, and certainly do still bear, distinct and
separate names, although a great deal of confusion has arisen between
them ; the name of the one being, as above remarked, indiscriminately
applied to the other. I see, however, no difficulty in making this matter
perfectly clear. According to the oldest orthography the Chapel-le-Dale
stream has been always variously identified as the Weas, Dale, Chapel,
or Ingleton Beck, and that from Keld Head and Thornton Force
downwards the Twiss, Doe, or Kingsdale Beck. The confusion with
respect to the Doe seems to have arisen mainly from this name having
been erroneously applied by previous Ordnance surveyors to the Chape!
or Dale beck, and as such it appears on the old maps. But the above
allocation is, I may observe, historically correct, and so far as I am able
to determine, etymologically apposite. The frequency of Scandinavian
place-names above Ingleton has already been referred to, and Twiss is
simply an abbreviation of the Scandinavian word tu'istle, meaning a
boundary, which the stream in reality is ; thus Twisleton is the town or

226

enclosure on the boundary, and the like of Twisleton Scar, &c. But
the meaning of its alias. Doe, (sometimes applied to the Weas or Dale
beck) is not so evident. It may be from the Scand. dyr or doer, a wild
animal (whence our English, dear) or from the British dhu or du (pron.
doo) black, or dhoan, brown,* in allusion to the dark, hidden, and
mysterious course of the stream through Kingsdale, or to the common
discolouration of the water from the wide sweeps of peaty moorland
which it drains. Or, again, what seems not improbable, it may be a
contraction or dialectic form of the British word, dehew, signifying
right-hand, or west, a compound term so translated by Dion Cassius and
other old Roman historians. In any case there is no doubt that the
Kingsdale stream is the Doe, while that to the east, or nearest the town,
is the Weas, Dale, or Ingleton Beck. But the upper portion of the
latter stream seems, from the township maps, to have been long known
as the Little Dale Beck only.

In the previous chapter we have explained the origin and causes of
the physical aspects of these grand chasmed dales, let us, therefore, now
say something of their artistic or spectacular merits. They were first
open to the public on Good Friday, April 3rd, 1885. Familiar as they
are now to thousands of health-seekers from the busy towns of West
Yorkshire and Lancashire, there are still many people in distant parts of
the country who know nothing about them.

We ought to have a firm, dry day for our pedestrian exploitations,
otherwise the paths may be slippery and uncomfortable walking. When
the ground is a little wet many tourists who come for the day, or even
for an afternoon to Ingleton, prefer to follow the romantic road up
Ohapel-le-Dale as far as Weathercote Cave, and back, a distance out and
home of eight miles. Weathercote at any time is a marvellous sight,
and there are also other curious caves and " pots " in the immediate
vicinity, well worth seeing.

To descend from Ingleton to the valley of the Twiss, or Pecca Fall
Glen, as it is frequently now distinctively called, you go by some cottages
below the Ingleborough hotel, and leave the disused cotton-mill on the
right. This large mill was built and worked by Mr. J. T. Coates, J.P.,
of Holme Head. It was erected after a fire, about forty years ago, on
the site of an old flax mill, but has been standing now some years.

Now we cross the bridge and enter a stile on the right, which opens
into BroajJ Wood, an extensive verdant expanse, spoiled, unfortunately,
by huge placards, through which the path proceeds a short distance to
the ticket-box. Here you are called upon to " stand and deliver " — the
sum of 2d., and an additional 2d. on entering the other, or Beasley Fall
Glen. This " surprise " overcome, other "surprises " of a different and
* See Moore's " Place Names of the Isle of Man."

227

doubtless more acceptable character now attract attention. You enter
the ravine of Creeping Steads, where a path has been constructed along
the shelving wooded bank, and presently descends by means Of a ladder
into the narrow defile below. Here the scene is wonderfully grand.
The river, in its contracted bed, tumbles among moss-grown boulders,
and the precipitous banks on each side are mantled with a variety of
profuse vegetable life. Opposite, up tower, to an immense height, huge
walls or ramparts of wood-crowned rock, their ledges and crannies, and
steep-rifted declivities affording a precarious root-hold for a perfect
forest of native growth, amongst which the dark foliage of the yews
contrasts finely with the tender green of the birches and other trees.

Our route along Swilla Bottom continues beneath flowery and ferny
glades, now climbing, now descending the banks of the rock-fermented
stream, and revealing at every turn glimpses of wood and water, and
upreared bosses of rock and cliff, of the most pleasing and majestic kind.
Hereabouts we perceive the interesting Herb Christopher, showy Herb
Paris, and not a few plants of the beautiful Lily-of -the- Valley. Many
kinds of Orchids also grow wild about this spot, and amongst them was
formerly the very rare and curious Lady's Slipper, but it is now long
extinct. We have, however, seen it in fine bloom in private gardens at
Ingleton, whither it had been transplanted.

And now we look round and observe the ever-deepening bed of the
river, strewn with innumerable boulders and loose ice-ground stones
which have tumbled from the crumbling banks of glacial drift, with
which the valley was once filled. The cliffs ascend to a height of one
hundred feet and upwards, and are still clothed with beautiful indigenous
wood, and clumps of fern and many a rare plant, which will attract the
botanist, and which render such varied scenes, in truth, grand natural
museums. But how different, as we proceed, is it to contemplate these
revelations of living beauty, and to feel the invigorating breezes, to
scanning the stuffed cases and dried " specimens " of the covered-in
museums in our towns ! What cunning of the hand or palette, again,
can depict the wonderful majesty, tone, and colour of these bewitching
scenes ? It is Cowper that says, and says most wisely —

" Lovely indeed the mimic works of Art,
But Nature's works far lovelier ! I admire,
None more admires the painter's magic skill,
Who shews me that which I shall never see.
Conveys a distant country into mine,
And throws Italian light on English walls. '

But imitative strokes can do no more
Than please the eye, — sweet Nature every sense—
The air salubrious of her lofty hills,
The cheering fragrance of her dewy vales.
And music of her woods- -no works of man
May rival these ; these all bespeak a power
Peculiar, and exclusively her own."

228

Some six or seven yards above the river we pass a rocky projection
adorned with emerald-bright moss, and from over its top descends in
diamond drops, or in thin pellucid dripping threads, a little expanse of
water, appropriately called the Silvery Dripping Falls. A short distance

Pecca Falls.

above we reach the Pecca Falls, which, unquestionably, form the grandest
water scenes along the river's course. The old Pecca Slate Quarries here,
where the fractured rock is brought into striking prominence by the
tremendous Craven Fault, enunciated in the last chapter, will arrest the

229

attention of the geologist. The first fall is extremely beautiful, amid
its rocky and verdant environment, thongh of no important dimensions.
The one above it, however, presents a magnificent scene, leaping, as it
does, down a wild romantic ravine, graced with trees and shrubs, and
falling from a height of forty feet, into a contracted gulf, from the sides
of which the rocks ascend nearly 200 feet. There are few falls in
Yorkshire more sublimely beautiful than this in a time of flood.
Sometimes we have seen it from top to bottom a mass of white curling
foam, contrasting splendidly with the dark hues of the circumjacent
strata. In Autumn, when the changing colours of the trees, and the
clusters of scarlet berries of the mountain-ash, along with patches of
projecting heather and decaying fern, encompass the grand sounding
fall, the scene is, indeed, most captivating.

Higher up the stream several other fine falls chase each other in quick
succession, and by ascending the rocky steps by the water's brink and
continuing above, good views of these may be obtained. Seats have also
been placed at favourable points of the path for viewing the scenery ;
and from these the deep woody water-lashed gorge below, backed by a
continuous panorama of beetling crags, with the not very distant summit
of cloud-wrapt Ingleborough beyond, present an endless variety of bold
and effective scenes. On certain occasions, when many visitors are
present, we may look far back and descry them emerging from a canopy
of trees high above the mountain ravine, or appearing on some distant
part of the jutting path, which seems to run like a mere riband along
the precipitous and giddy heights.

Now we come to a kind of island in the upper reach of the river, and
the wet banks on this side of it are starred over with the beautiful
flowers of Parnassus and other uncommon species of plants. Just above,
at a curvature of the river, is Thornton Force, one of the most beautiful,
and at the same time most interesting, waterfalls in the district. It
stands in the open, and is well seen some way off. Geologically it is,
perhaps, unique, as we see here in fine section the several distinct and
well-defined beds of Silurian and Carboniferous rocks, previously
described, and which give such remarkable pronouncement to the
scenery. The water falls over an edge of horizontal limestone, overlying
a thickness of 4 to 5 feet of coarse conglomerate containing pebbles,
chiefly Silurian, and this again overlies an exposure of highly inclined
slates. The perpendicular height of the Fall is 63 feet, but the rocks on
the left are fully 30 feet higher. It is a fine spectacle when there is a
good rush of water, and the cascade may be passed from behind as it
arches over the face of the cliff. There is another smaller fall near it
issuing from the breast of the scar, to which point it has descended
through the perforated limestone above. Some aged yew trees, hollies,

230

hazels, and thorns grow about this wild spot, and when these in winter
are delicately feathered with hoar-rime, and the half -frozen waterfall is
hung round with long bars and fleecy curtains, and dependent fringes of
translucent ice, it is a perfect " fairy-scene."

To reach Thornton Force without traversing the above-described
ravine of the Twiss, you should take the high-road to a little beyond
Thornton Hall, and turn in at a gate on the right.

This side of Thornton Force we mount- the hill and soon arrive at
the bridge which spans the stream, enabling us to cross, if necessary, to
the eastern ravine or Ingleton Beck. Tourists, however, who wish to
follow Kingsdale up to Yordas Cave (3 miles), or Dent (8| miles), should
keep this side of the stream by the ravine of Raven Ray into the road.
Here the torrent has cut through a chasm of impending limestone,
which, from some points of view, has the appearance of a huge natural
bridge, the central part of which has fallen in. The rocks,— once the
haunt of ravens,— considerably overhang, and on the east side rise to a
height of nearly thirty yards above the river, their bases being strewn
with the fallen debris of innumerable centuries. Above the ravine,
whence there is an excellent view of Greygarth and the distant hills, the
valley widens, and the stream courses through an expanse of old alluvium,
which has no doubt been the bed of a large, shallow lake. A short
distance above, a turn to the left is made, and the stream is seen issuing
in a pool under the wall close to the highway. This is Keld Head, so
called from the old Scandinavian word for a well or spring. Experiments
have been tried, and it is found that this stream is the same as that
which disappears in a fissure just above Yordas Cave, and pursues an
underground course of nearly two miles.

But as we mention this again in our account of the trip from
Ingleton to Dent, we will return to Thornton Force, and continue our
explorations of the Beasley Falls Glen. Beasley, I may here mention,
is evidently so-called from the name of a former tenant of the land in
which the waterfalls of that name are situated. There is considerable
variation in the present local spelling of the name, but in the Ingleton
registers of the 17th and 18th centuries it is written Beaxley.

On crossing the bridge, above mentioned, an old lane is entered, which
you follow to the right under Twisleton Scars by Beasley Farm and
Twisleton Manor House. Visitors can here obtain refreshments, and
then proceed to the head of the magnificent, narrow glen through which
the impetuous Chapel-le-Dale Beck, with ever-restless surge dashes
along beneath tree-crowned height and shivered rock, and blowing its
" hoarse-trumpet " through gorge or canyon from cataracts of the wildest
character. Passing a little prairie of wild flowers, in which the Butterfly
Orchis, among other rarities, grows most luxuriantly, we descend a

231

winding path in the shady ravine to the fine Beasley Falls, of which
there are several. Here a fan-shaped sheet of foaming water is spread
over a bed of massive rock, that rises to a height of 20 feet, and, which
crumbles like wind-tossed snow, the beautiful fall into soft white showers.
We may now cross the bridge in the contracted ravine, high above
the fuming water, and pursue the zig-zag path along the umbrageous
declivity opposite. The torrent, sounding deep below, forms a succession
of spouts, leaps, rapids, and eddying pools, sometimes hidden from view,
and sometimes affording by the projecting bosses of rock spectacles of
rare grandeur. The stream runs for a great part of the way through a
rugged channel of up-heaved or pillared bands of dark Silurian slates,

Backstone Gill.
and which are a prolongation of the slate-bed already noticed at the
base of Thornton Force. Then follows a baud of greenish-grey grit,
with only a few thin slates, which, according to the Ordnance Survey,
must be at least 600 or 700 feet thick, and can be traced continuously
across the valley of lugletou Beck from the S.E. to near Long Chimney,
when it disappears nnder drift.

282

The boisterous and confined waters now enter the romantic gorge
known as Backstone Gill, or Baxen Gill, which is a long alley of upreared
rock, through which the darkened stream is ploughed into a double fall.
The solid flanks of the huge ravine are beautifully bronzed and tinted
with various mosses and lichens, and the whole shrouded in the gloom
of impending forest trees, make this, truly, one of the grandest and most
singular water-passes in the district. In times of heavy flood the water
rises very considerably in the chasm, and rattling the rocks in its course
makes a sound like the booming of cannon. Below it is another grand
fall, which may be viewed by descending a flight of steps on to a grassy
promontory where the valley opens. The scene that is now expanded to
the vision is one of the finest that can be imagined. What a magnificent
swell of ancient forest rises skyward from the declivities of the glen
opposite ! Dense, beautiful, and majestic, it can only be compared with
such scenes as one beholds but now and again in the glens of Wales, or
the Highlands of Scotland.

A little further on and we descend round the lofty old slate quarries,
where the walls of rock, going vertically upwards to a great height,
present a wonderfully interesting spectacle. The slates, says Prof.
Sedgwick, are coarser than the fine greenish-blue slates of the central
group of Cumberland, but resemble them in colour. Some of them are
marked with " beautiful dendritic coverings of pyrites, and occasionally
studded with large, bright cubes of that mineral." They are co-extensive
with those at Pecca, on the Thornton Beck, but the latter are spoiled by
joints and fractures, and have long since been abandoned. Our path
hence from the slates leads across the Craven Fault by the limestone
quarries and the rocky Storrs Common, with many an open and pleasant
view southwards ; and as we wend our way back to Ingleton we must
feel that our trip has been a most enjoyable one, and that we are
carrying away with us impressions of beautiful scenes that can never
fade from remembrance, and that must often help to cheer and brighten
hours of gloom while dwelling, perhaps, amid the walls and streets of
some distant smoke-black city. Is it not Wordsworth who expresses
the sentiment somewhere ?

" Though absent long,
These forms of beauty have not been to me
As a landscape to a blind man's eye,
But oft in lonely rooms, and, 'mid the din
Of towns and cities, I have owed to them,
In hours of weariness, sensations sweet,
Felt in the blood, and felt along the heart ;
And passing even into my purer mind,
With tranquil restoration."

233

CHAPTER XXI.

Ingleborough : Its Origin, History, and Scenery.

Up Ingleborough — Its extent and character — The oldest mountain in Yorkshire —
Comparison with Snowdon— Physical structure explained — Sectional details
— Botanical aspects — List of native flowers and ferns— The creeping things —
Advent of Man — Ancient beacon — Celtic huts on the summit — Roman
occupation of Ingleborough — Analysis of the prospect—" Jubilee " tires.

ND now for the ascent of Ingleborough ! This is undoubtedly

the most popular mountain in Yorkshire ; its favour amongst

climbers, in comparison with the rest of our Highland

mountains being probably as 100 to 1. This is mainly owing

to its central and accessible position, and to the glorious view obtainable

from its noble crown.

It possesses, however, other and varied fields of attraction second to
no other Yorkshire mountain. Geologically it may be said to date, so
far as this part of England is concerned, from the very foundations of
the world, its limestone base resting on the oldest rocks in the county.
Its slopes are, moreover, covered with the remains of the presence of
ancient ice-fields, and its rocks and scars and various vegetable earths
are clothed with an infinitude of Alpine and other rare and curious
plants. In other respects, too, it is not less interesting. In its human
associations its history is unequivocally recorded from the period of the
immigration of the primitive British Goidels, or northern Gaels, who
were the first great branch of the original Celtic settlers in this part of
our island. But more will be said of this presently.

Ingleborough is, indeed, in all respects a mighty mountain.
The superficial circumference of its base is about 25 miles, which
includes a tract at once grand, wild, and solitary, and, if we except the
single house at Crina Bottom (1100 feet) which lies in the south-western
lap of the mountain, there itfan expanse of nearly 20 square miles, or at
least 12,000 statute acres, without a permanent habitation, an extent of
houseless and uninhabited territory possibly without parallel in England.
There is, forsooth, no cause for complaint of " smoke nuisance " about
here, as the tourist imbibing, as he may, the invigorating breezes at
every step, ascends the wide sweeps of bird-haunted heather, and grassy

284

or rock-broken fell, rising tier above tier, and scar on scar, until the
wide summit is gained, 2373 feet above the adjoining sea, which he
can plainly descry.

The mountain stands, like Snowdon in Wales, an isolated and solitary
mass, its lofty summit constituting a well-defined object from various
parts of Yorkshire and the surrounding counties at a distance of 40 to
50 miles ; and by its easily-recognisable outline bulked singly and alone
against the sky, is a familiar landmark for mariners at sea, and it also
serves, when viewed from afar, as a kind of key by which to identify
many points of the surrounding landscape. Owing, perhaps, to this
commanding and imposing aspect, old geographers have vastly over-rated
its altitude. Hurtley gives it at 5280 feet, or considerably higher than
the actual height of either Snowdon (3571 feet) or Ben Nevis (4406
feet), the highest mountains respectively in Wales and Scotland. John
Housman, writing in the early part of the century, states that its
altitude above the sea, " as taken by a neighbouring country gentleman,
is 3987 feet." However, put to the latest test of the most approved
instruments, its height is found to be not more than above stated, viz.,
2373 feet.

Snow often lies on some parts of the mountain when many of the
trees and shrubs in the gills at its feet are in full leaf and flower. We
might, indeed, almost say of it, as Moore says of heaven-aspiring
Lebanon, —

" Its head in wintry grandeur towers,
And whitens with eternal sleet ;
While Summer, in a vale of flowers,
Is sleeping rosy at its feet."

We must now say something of the structure of the mountain, which,
as remarked, presents a grand and entertaining field of study. The
main mass consists of Scar Limestone, 600 to 700 feet thick, above
which come the variable series of Yoredale rocks, about 800 feet in total
thickness, overlaid with a cap of Millstone Grit. This grit, which forms
the top of Ingleborough, is coarse and pebbly, and hades to the E.N.E.
According to Mr. Dakyns, of the Ordnance Survey, this grit is without
doubt the same bed as one which years ago was mapped in Wharfedale
as Millstone Grit, and so coloured on the published maps, because it was
believed to be the equivalent of part of the Kinderscout Grit. At the
same time, he says, there is no doubt that in other parts of the country a
different horizon has been taken as the base of the Millstone Grit. For
the Ingleborough grit, as Phillips pointed out, is the same bed as that
on Penyghent below the coal, and this coal is probably the same seam as
one which elsewhere has been taken as the base of the Millstone Grit.*

* Sec " Memoirs of the Geological Survey, Explanation of Quarter Sheet 50,"
page 74.

285

These grits underlie the coal measures, thrown down by the great
fault, or series of faults, on the south-west of the mountain, and indicate
a drop in the strata on that side of fully 8000 feet, or a subsidence and
levelling equivalent, say, to the whole height of a mountain like
Skiddaw or Heivellyn !

The Carboniferous basement beds, and old conglomerate resting

immediately upon the inclined Silurian rocks, which form the floor of

Ingleborough, are laid at horizons above sea-level of 700 to 800 feet.f

Above these, in chronological order, the strata are thus piled up :

Feet.
Millstone Grit of summit ... ... ... ... 60

U/UU0I ... ... ... ... ... ... 1*0

Main Limestone ... ... ... ... ... 50 — 60

Sandstone, tvith some shale ... ... ... ... 200

Shale, with some sandstone ... ... ... ... 130

Limestone (with shale J ... ... ... ... 8 — 10

Shale and sandstone ... ... ... ... 6o

Middle Limestone ... ... ... ... ... 15—20

Sandstone and shale ... ... ... ... 150

Simonstone Limestone ... ... ... ... 25 — 80

Sandstone and shale ... ... ... ... 100

Hard raw Scar Limestone ... ... ... ... 80 — 40

Shales and limestone ... ... ... ... 30

Great Scar Limestone ... ... ... ... about 600

This section, according to the Ordnance data, details a thickness of
about 1600 feet. The Lower, or Scar Limestone, is stated by the same
authority, to attain its highest point above the sea (about 1500 feet) on
the south-west side of Ingleborough, near Newby Moss, whence it falla
to about 1200 feet at Southerscales Fell and South House Moor, in a
distance of nearly three miles, which equals a fall of 1 00 feet per mile
or 1 in 53 nearly, not much more than a dip of 1° on the average, but
in places, of course, the dip becomes steeper. It is a nearly solid masa
of greyish or light blue limestone, with but few partings of clay or shale,
except near its base, and occasionally near its upper boundary. The
upper beds contain a very large percentage of carbonate of lime, and
are well adapted for burning and agricultural purposes, while the lower,
being hard, compact, and more fissile, are better suited for building
purposes. The Main or Twelve Fathom Limestone, is placedby Phillip*
as the topmost bed of the Yoredale series, including the measures above
it in the Millstone grits. On Ingleborough it has a thickness of only
about 50 feet, and thins away eastward. The Underset Limestone, next
below it, does not appear either on Ingleborough or Penyghent, although

f The base of the Carboniferous series lies at an elevation of 725 feet at God's
Bridge and Thornton Force, nor in Chapel-le-Daledoesit anywhere rise more than
150 feet above this, but in Ribblesdale and Crummack it is more variable in height.
Vide " Survey Memoirs."

236

it is found as a very thin bed on the flanks of Whernside, The whole
of these beds are very erratic, rapidly alternating, and difficult to follow.
They are also frequently furrowed with swallow-holes and caverns of
large extent.

Let us turn next to the botany of Ingleborough. As might be
expected from the variety of its rocks and elevation, there exist along its
slopes and edges numerous and many uncommon, kinds of plants.
Amongst the latter may be mentioned the beautiful Purple Saxifrage,
which fringes the limestone scar near its western summit for a considerable
distance. Its small, densely-clustered leaves and delicate purple flowers
may often be seen bursting into life and beauty while the snows of winter
linger about the hoary head of the mountain. On this account it is well
worth making the ascent of Ingleborough in the early Spring to see this
pretty gem blossoming in one of its few native English haunts, where
for ages (how many we know not*) it has maintained a vigorous existence,
nourished by the pure glistening dews and rains that are being
continuously distilled upon its rocky bed. It is strictly Alpine in its
natural habits, and occurs in but one or two other places in Yorkshire.
In the Swiss Oberland and higher Jura it may frequently be met with,
and it has also been " swum down " to the shores of Lake Constance,
where (as "Wordsworth observes)

14 — Cleaving to the ground it lies,
With multitudes of purple eyes,
Spangling a cushion green like moes."

As it is impossible to describe every plant and flower in detail, I shall
give a list of the more interesting species of the summit, furnished
and prepared by Prof. J. G. Baker, F.R.S., F.L.S., of the Royal
Herbarium, Kew, as follows : t

PLANTS OF THE INFER-ARCTIC ZONE ON INGLEBOROUGH :

Springs below the Main Limestone Scars, 2200 feet. Mont la fontana,
Achillea Millefolium, Juncus effusus, Scirpus catspitosus, Cynosurus cristatus.

On the Main Limestone Cliffs, 2200 to 2300 fekt. Card amine
pratensis, Viola sylvatwa, Armaria vcrna, Trifolinm repens, Alchemilla vulgaris.
Potent ilia TormentUla, Saxifraga oppositi folia, Sedum Rhodiola, Scabiosa
Columbaria, Galium sylrestre, Taraxacum officinale, Campanula rotundifolia.
Thymus Serpyllum, Rumrx Acttosa, Carcx stellulata, Sesleria ca>rulea, Poa
pratensis. Qystoptcris fragilis. both type and var. dentata, Asplenium viride,
Lastrea Filix-mas, Lastrea dilatata var, coll in a.

On the Gritstone Ridge, at 2800 to nearly 2400 feet. Ranunculus
repent, Draba verna, Cerastium triviale, Sagina procumbent, Stellaria media,
Oxalitt Acctosella, Saxifraga hypnoides, Galium saxatile, Scnecio vulgaris,
Vaccinium Myrtillu*, Euphrasia officinalis, Rumex Acctosella, Juncus squarrosus,
Lnzula campextri*. Carexjfava (/*) Aira ctespitosa, Agrostis vulgaris, Poa annua,
Festuca ovina, Nardus stricta, Lycopodium Selago.

* It was observed here by Ray as early as the year 1677.
t See the XaturalUt for Nov., 1889.

287

With respect to the ferns of the mountain, these have unfortunately
been so diligently sought for, that year by year they are becoming
significantly fewer. Having previously commented on this unhappy
destruction, their habitats need not here be specifically defined. But
the Harts-tongue, Bladder-fern, Parsley-fern, Wall-rue, and Black and
Green Spleenworts are still tolerably abundant ; the Prickly Shield-fern,
Moon-wort, and Limestone Polypody, less so.

And now a few words about the " creeping things " of the mountain,
which, if more obscure and neglected, are assuredly not less interesting
among God's creatures than the wild flowers and ferns ; and they are
equally indicative, from a scientific point of view, of the natural
distribution of the lower forms of life at varying altitudes. The
following useful sketch, copied by permission from the Naturalist*
is from the competent pen of Mr. J. W. Carter, a well-known Bradford
entomologist.

SOME INGLEBOROUGH COLEOPTERA.

During two ascents of Ingleborough — one on the 11th of April, 1884, in
company with Mr. H. T. Soppitt, of Bradford, and Mr. J. A. Butterfield, of
Lewisham, and again on April 3rd, 1885, also in company with Mr. Soppitt—
several species of coleoptera, some of exceptional interest, were collected, the
following list of which may be of interest.

Those marked * are new county records.

Cababus abvensis F. One on the side of Ingleborough at an elevation of
about 2,000 feet April, 1884 (J.A.B. and H.T.S.) Only once previously taken in
the county, viz., at Strensall Common (Ent. Trans. Y. N. U.).

Notiophilus aquaticus L. In boggy ground at the foot of Ingleborough,
April, 1885. A blue-black variety occurred with the type.

Notiophilus palustbis Duft. One at the base of Ingleborough, April,
1885. This and the preceding species are new to the north-west portion of the
county.

Notiophilus biouttatus F. Common about Ingleborough and the
neighbourhood, 1884 and 1885.

Nebbia oyllenhalii Sch. Very abundant on the summit of Ingleborough,
April, 1884. Amongst them were three or four examples with the elytra " entirely
rust-red," a form mentioned by the Rev. Canon Fowler in his admirable work on
" British Coleoptera."

Clivina fossob L. At the baBe of Ingleborough, 1885.

*Patbobus assimilis Chaud. In great abundance on the summit of
Ingleborough, April, 1884. I think that everyone who has examined large
numbers of this form from varying altitudes cannot but agree with Mr. Fowler in
regarding it as " merely a highland variety " of P. excavatus Payk. I have taken
it at an elevation of from 900 to above 2,000 feet, those taken at the highest point
being the most pronounced asrimilu, while at lower elevations, forms not agreeing
exactly with either, but partaking of the characters of both, are often met with.

Ptebostichus nigrita F. Common in the neighbourhood of Ingleborough,
1884 and 1885.

^Ptebostichus jETHIops F. One each by Mr. Soppitt and myself, at the
base of Ingleborough, April 3rd, 1885.

238

Badisteb BiPU8Tur,ATU8 F. One given me by my friend, Mr. T. Hey, of
Derby, taken on Ingleborough, 1887.

Calathus melanocephalus L. Common in the neighbourhood of
Ingleborough.

* Var. nubigena Hal. On the sides and at the foot of Ingleborough,

1884 and 1886.

Anchomenus albipeb F. At the foot and in the neighbourhood of
Ingleborough, common.

Byrrhus fasciatus F. Not uncommon on the summit of Ingleborough, 1884.

The common frog, it may be noted, occurs in pools on Ingleborough
at near 2000 feet.

The summit of the mountain is a bare, or grass-covered plateau,
nearly a mile in circumference, where in former times horse-races were
held, but on one of these occasions, now nearly two centuries ago, it
seems that a spirited animal bounded over the precipice on the north
side and was killed, so the sports were discontinued, and have not since
been resumed.*

As I have had several times occasion to point out, this valuably-
prominent peak was secured as a beacon and signal, and probably as a
Bel hill, by the Goidelic or earliest foreign immigrants, who settled in
these parts, and to whom we unquestionably owe many existing
place-names in the district. For the purposes named, the mountain
continued to be used down to the Norman invasion, and even for
centuries afterwards fires were kindled on its summit as alarm-signals
during times of war and tumult.

The fortifications, traces of which still exist on the top of the
mountain, are, I think, referable partly to the late native Celts and
partly to the Roman usurpation. Near the south-western edge are the
remains of some circular ramparts and watch-towers, that possibly
originated from the Roman garrison at Overborough, which will be
described later on. One of these constructions formerly consisted of a
stout gritstone wall, about 20 feet long, 4 feet wide, and perhaps 12 feet
high. It was ascended by a stone stair, and was no doubt used as a
beacon.

The summit of the mountain was, moreover, encompassed in part
by a strong gritstone wall ; the area enclosed being, according to
Mr. Farrer, 15 acres, 1 rood, 37 perches. It was in form an irregular
square, 490 feet across from east to west, having three entrances or
openings, viz. : to the north, south-west, and east ; the two first-named
being 50 feet wide. Ancient trackways led up to each of the openings.
The wall, says Phillips, writing in 1854, is remarkably low for about
30 yards at the north-east corner, and there the hill runs out into a sort

* " Several persons now living say they have seen races upon it." Vide
Grntlcman't Mag.,, vol. xxxi., p. 126 (a.d. 1761).

239

of natural bastion. Within the enclosure there were 19 horse-shoe
shaped huts, each about 30 feet in diameter, with only one opening to
the south-east, that is to say the backs of the houses were built against
the north-west, or the quarter most exposed to high winds and snow
storms.

These were, as I have stated above, in all probability the habitations
of the native Celts, who occupied the site during the encroachment of
the Romans, and with whom, we have no doubt, a tough struggle took
place, before the new comers obtained full possession of the beacon.
The position, form, and regularity of these foundations do not denote
them to be the work of barbarous hands, — of the poor cave-dwellers or
of the earliest immigrants, — nor is it likely that any later invaders, such
as the Danes or Saxons, tenanted this elevated and exposed spot. The
Saxons were peaceably settled in the district, and the Danes, too, as
previously explained. They may, however, have had an outpost or
signal on the mountain, like the Romans. The peculiar horse-shoe form
of the huts has not been observed elsewhere in this country, and they
were apparently so built with a critical knowledge of such a design
offering the best resistance to the prevailing wind. It is, however, also
possible they were planned in the belief, that by adopting the horse-shoe
shape of building, their houses would be secure against the attacks of
enemies. This is an old Celtic superstition, which seems to have
originated in the East, where the horse-shoe arch, as well as the circle, —
symbolical of the visible heavens,— prevailed in oriental architecture at
an early period. Still, it may be assumed that they had something to do
with the horse races once held on the summit, above alluded to, but
there is no recollection or tradition among the inhabitants of the district
that such has been the case, nor are they mentioned in connection with
the subject by any of the old writers. Phillips gives a plan of the camp
and huts, which shews a small tutelary spring on the west side, about
50 feet from the summit, called St. Anthony's Well.

I may further add, that Rauthmel, in his Antiquities of Overborough^
(1824), seems to think the fortifications are of Roman origin, and gives
the following reasons. " The word Ingleborough," he says, " signifies
the same in the Saxon which the word Bremetonacae [Overborough]
signifies in the British tongue, namely, rocky-hill fire-station. Hence
we learn that the Roman garrison at Overborough, erected a beacon,
fire-house, or watch-tower upon the rocky hill of Ingleborough, and
appointed watches or centinels there. TheBe centinels, by their signals
of fire, were to give notice and alarm the soldiers of the garrison upon
their discovering the approach of the enemy. The use of beacons or
watch-towers upon hills to alarm the country was an ancient custom, for
we read of beacons in the Old Testament, and to confirm all, this beacon or

240

fire-house of the Romans has to this day its ruins upon Ingleborough,
which is a remarkably rocky hill ; and the Roman watch-tower is situate
on that side of the summit of the hill which looks towards Overborough."
There are some considerable remains of ancient earthworks and
entrenchments near to the Lund Holme farm-house, about a mile to the
west of Ingleton, which may have been a fort of the Roman Guard of
Ingleborough, but I am inclined to think that both this and the camp
at Yarlsber, to the east of the town, were outposts of the Danes prior to
the Saxon secession.

We will now conclude our somewhat prolonged notice of Ingleborough
with an account of the view from the top. There are not many
mountains that command a wider panorama, although it must be
confessed that this very distance destroys much of the sense of wildness
and impressive ruggedness that belongs to more closely-encompassing
peaks, such as one experiences from some lesser view-points around the
heads of the Yore, Wharfe, and Swale. Turning to the west, the eye
descries a wide expanse of sun-lighted sea, stretching from High
Heysham and Morecambe on the south, to Amside and Oartmell Fells
northwards. Looking across the Bay directly westward, the smoke
rising from the town of Barrow may be distinguished at a distance of 37
miles, and beyond is the Irish sea again, with the dim cone-shaped
outline of the Isle of Man discernible when sufficiently clear. This is 90
miles off, and is the furthest point visible westward. It is impossible to
determine the coast of Ireland, as some writers have imagined, although
from Black Combe, and perhaps other points of considerable elevation
on the west, the Wicklow and Mourne mountains are discernible. The
intermediate area this way is occupied with many objects and features of
interest. Warton Crag, above Carnforth, an old beacon-hill (which
received the light from Ingleborough) and Lancaster Castle (18 miles)
are plainly seen ; also the valley of the Lune, with the beautifully
wooded vale of Wenning, and the silvery, flowing Greta that runs to
meet it, relieving by their aspects of verdure and surrounding cultivation,
the wildernesses of fell and mountain beyond.

Deep at our feet dashes the picturesque, wild little beck through
Chapel-le-Dale, but from our elevation, looking little more than a silver
streak " frozen by distance," while on the farther side of the Dale rise
the grey walls and miniature turrets of Twisleton Scars. Up again
from these, but more to the north, gradually ascend the eastern flanks of
Wheraside, its long, green gable, the " roof " of Yorkshire, reared
massively and majestically against the sky, and forming as it does a
noble background to the wide undulating morass and plain that stretches
between it and Cam Fell. Beyond it, northwards, we have Crag Hill
and the County Stone, the long and lofty viaduct of the Settle and

241

Carlisle railway at Ribblehead, and Rise Hill, below which runs the
grand old road to Dent. Further behind is the picturesque high boss of
Baugh Fell, the Howgill Fells grouped above Sedbergh, and some of the
Lake mountains, including Coniston Old Man, Black Combe, and the
two Langdales, Helvellyn, Skiddaw, and beyond Fairfield, the peering
summit of Scafell Pike (8210 feet), the loftiest of all the English
mountains. The array of hills in this direction is very fine, but a very
clear atmosphere is essential to discriminate and identify, with the aid of
a good map, the numerous points named. Northwards, but nearer at
hand, rise Wold and Widdale Fells, abutting on the desolate tracts of
Blea Moor, and on the right Cam Fell, Dodd Fell, Wether Fell, and
the Wensleydale hills, including the isolated summit of Addleborough,
are conspicuous. Eastward, soars the straight-backed edge of Fountains
Fell, with the whole of Penyghent towering proudly out of Ribblesdale
to the north of it, and looking so near as to seem almost within a giant's
stride. Far behind, again, rises Great Whernside above higher
Nidderdale, and Buckden Gable, with Ryeloaf peering up between the
Malham Moors and the white road coming down from High Side to
Settle. Southward are the hills and fells of Lancashire, including the
Bowland Knotts, the mammoth bulk of Pendle, and Longridge, as far
as the estuary of the Ribble. Housman (a J). 1810) says that "the
blue mountains of Wales strike the eye as the farthest terrestrial object,"
and Wm. Howson (1850), brother of Dean Howson, of Chester, confirms
the opinion by observing that " in the far distance may be distinguished
the Flintshire Hills and the Great Ormes Head." Allen (1830) also
says that Snowdon is " clearly visible." Although in the clearest
weather we have been unable to verify these important declarations, nor
have we found the person who could, yet from the open character of the
country in the direction indicated there is no reason why, under
exceptional conditions of the atmosphere, the Welsh peaks should not be
discerned. The distance from Ingleborongh in a bee-line to the Great
Ormes Head is 88 miles, and to Snowdon 110 miles. I may add,
how r ever, that Allen's statement is undoubtedly borrowed, and the " blue
mountains of Wales" assumption by Housman receives no better
credential than his own admission, to the effect that u a thick fog on
the top of the mountain " prevented him from having the pleasure of
seeing them, or even of ascending the mountain at all ! His words are,
apparently a copy of those of Hutton, who in his Tour to the Caves
(a.d. 1781) remarks of the view that " the blue mountains in Wales
terminated our further progress, after we had traced out the winding of
the coast all the way from Lancaster, by Preston, and Liverpool." The
atmosphere in those days must have been less commonly obscured by
haze than is the case now, owing to the growth of the smoky pall

242

of commerce in South Lancashire. Charles Kingsley climbed the grand
old summit on the evening of July 5th, 1858, — he being then the guest
of Mr. Morrison, at Hainan) Tarn House, — and in one of his letters he
writes : " Last night we went up Ingleborough, and saw the whole world
to the west, the Lake mountains, and the western sea, beyond Lancaster
and Morecambe Bay, for miles ! There was a cap on Scawfell, forty
miles away, which has ended in heavy rain to-day."

There is an old saying, which is also said to be a true one :

By " sap " is meant a heavy downpour of rain. Warton Crag, as before
observed, was anciently the next beacon to Ingleborough.

On the memorable night of Her Majesty's Jubilee, June 21st, 1887,
a hnge bonfire was kindled on Ingleborough, the illumination of which
I was able to descry from Raw don Billing, to the west of Leeds, a
visual distance of 40 miles. About twelve tons of material were used
for the fire, including a cask of paraffin, and it is stated by those who
witnessed the conflagration from the summit that upwards of 60 fires
were discernible upon the tops of the higher hills, and extended from
Skiddaw and Saddleback on the north, to Pendle Hill and the Lancashire
Pen ines south wards. The night, as will be remembered, was remarkably
fine and clear, and before sunset it was possible even from Ingleborough
to descry vessels at sea.

243

CHAPTER XXII.

In Chapel-le-Dale.

A remarkable dale — A Yorkshire Wonderland — Storrs Caves — Erratic Boulders —
Ingleton " granite " — God's Bridge— The capital of Ingleton Fells— Interesting
little chapel — Hurtle and Gingle Pots— Weathercote Cave — Turner and Westall
— Douk Caves— Barefoot Wives' Hole— Mere Gill — Tatham Wife Hole — Up
Whernside — Extraordinary caverns — Gatekirk. Bruntscar, Homeshaw, and
Ivescar Caves — Scar Fall— Irruptions of the Scots— Discovery of coiiiB — Rare
plants— The Ice Age in Yorkshire — Stone circle— Sepulchral cairns.

T is, perhaps, no exaggeration to affirm that the romantic and
highly-interesting stretch of country between Ingleton and
Ribblehead, — a length of six miles, — contains a larger number
of natural wonders than is to be found in any area of similar
extent in England. Mountains and waterfalls ; cliffs and chasms ;
caves and swallow-holes, of remarkable and unique design ; cairns,
tumuli, and other pre-historic antiquities ; fine sweeps of dale scenery,
with their diverse rock-relics of the Great Ice Age ; and a rare profusion
of natural history objects besides, make this altogether one of the most
entertaining excursions we have to describe. This little dale is, indeed,
one of the wonders of Yorkshire.

The direct carriage-road to Ribblehead, which may be continued
forward by the mountain-road into Wensleydale, runs between ranges of
magnificent grey and white scars, terraced on either side of the valley at
an altitude above the river of 600 — 1000 feet ; those on the left, under
Whernside, being called the Twisleton Scars, and those on the right,
under Ingleborough, the Raven Scars. These imposing flanks of
Mountain Limestone are rent and furrowed with numerous watercourses,
some of which find their way by secret passages underground, to emerge
again and discharge their limpid currents into the main stream below.
The road from Ingleton to Chapel-le-dale (4 miles), or as it was anciently
called Wise or Wease Dale* (A.S., wiese, a meadow), is pretty level,
700 — 800 feet, but beyond the Chapel Houses it rises, and at Ribblehead
reaches an altitude of nearly 700 feet. Formerly there was part corn
grown about Chapel-le-Dale, and the land having been early reclaimed,

* In the old Ordnance Map I find a portion of the road marked Bouch Dale.
This is evidently a local innovation from the name of the lord of the manor
last century.

244

probably originated its Saxon name a thousand years ago. But I have
already explained this and the names of the various becks, &c, in a
previous chapter.

Having described the beauties of the Dale Beck as far as the Beasley
Falls, we will now quit the village by the Dale road, leaving the common,
which is crossed to the lane by the " Devil's Grave " up to Ingleborough,
on our right, and proceed a little further as far as Storrs Hall. Here,
by the highway near the Hall, are a couple of caves, which have been
lately cleared and made available for visitors. As yet, their penetrable
length is not great ; but the lower cave, which is descended by a number
of rudely-formed steps, is ascertained to extend for a very considerable
distance downwards, one branch evidently going in the direction of Fell
End. The upper cave is accessible for a length of about 50 yards, and
is entered by a gallery about 15 — 20 feet wide, and nearly as much in
height. There are, however, several cross fissures, forming chambers 10
to 12 yards in height. The caverns contain no stalactites, or other
beautiful encrustations, and their initial formation may be due to the
natural convulsion or Fault which passes by Storrs Hall, before described,
and which have been subsequently enlarged by the action of water.

Pursuing the road, various erratic boulders will be passed, some loose
and some built into the adjoining walls by the way-side. These we have
already mentioned. Now we come in sight of the " Granite Quarries,"
with their peculiar intersecting veins of slate. The rock, also before
noticed, is variously described as a u basalt ;" a " felspathic trap ;" and
a " pyroclastic rock built up of the denudated products of a metamorphic
area, enclosed in a matrix of felspathic ash." The Ingleton folk,
however, are content to call it simply " granite," and as such it is crushed
and sold for road metal. But technically, as we see, it is not a granite.

The vale we are traversing now assumes a most romantic character.
Far away below us, in the sober sunlight, glides the now gentle stream,
to bound ere long o'er crag and dell and by many a lofty waterfall, to
" greet " at last its far-travelled comrade, the mountain Doe or Twiss, at
Ingleton. Down on our left we pass the Dale House, one of the few
dwellings seen on our way, and about \ mile beyond, the road crosses the
effluence of a small stream which courses down to the Dale beck just
below. Here, if you are geologising, or are at all interested, stoop down
and you will see the calcareous conglomerate, we have before alluded to,
resting on the upturned slate. Just above is God's bridge, so-called
because it was not fashioned by human hands. It is a long natural
bridge of carboniferous limestone, overlaid with turf, and concealing for
a distance of about 200 yards the waters of the Dale beck, which, on
emerging, are joined by the stream above mentioned, which descends by
a subterranean passage the western flanks of Ingleborough, and is

245

doubtless the one that enters the chasm of Mere Gill. By its side is
another coming from the opposite direction. Above the " bridge " the
open watercourse is usually dry ; the stream seeking a lower stratum, and
dodging curiously in and out along its honeycombed bed it eventually
leaves the limestone a few hundred yards below the "bridge," and
courses then over impervious slates down to the great 'fault, half-a-mile
above Ingleton, where it again forms a channel in the carboniferous rocks.

A short distance above God's Bridge and we arrive at the picturesque
and retired hamlet of Chapel-le-Dale, which, like a little Bethoron walled
in by the mountains, is the chief holy-place and " capital " of the
chapelry of Ingleton Fells, comprising an area of over 10,000 acres.
The population is about 150, or, say, 70 acres to a soul — ample 4k elbow-
room" indeed ! Its little church is a neat stone edifice, with sittings
for about 100 persons. As a chapel-of-ease to Ingleton it is of
considerable antiquity, but its origin is not, apparently, known. It is
comprised within the ancient parish of Bentham, and its living, a
perpetual curacy, is in the gift of the Rector of Bentham. In Saxon
times, from which the place undoubtedly dates, the inhabitants probably
worshipped at Ingleton. In the time of Edward II. the dale was infested
with hordes of Scots, who committed great ravages on local property, so
much so that in the 13th year of that reign (a.d. 1819) the taxes on
certain neighbouring churches were very considerably reduced. In these
specially-ordered writs of remission no mention is made of Wisedale or
Chapel-le-dale Chapel, although those of Twisleton* and Ingleton are
included.

From what we are able to gather, fires would appear to have been
lighted on I'ngleborough to alarm the natives on the approach of the
mischief-meaning Scots. The inhabitants of the dale thereupon took
refuge in the caves, where they also concealed their money and valuables.
Coins of that period have frequently been discovered in one or two of the
caves in the district, of which we shall speak later on.

In 1864 the chapelry was formed into a separate ecclesiastical district,
and a few years afterwards th£ little church was restored and beautified.
A brass plate within the interior reads :

'• To the glory of God. Amen. This ancient church at Chapel-le-Dale was
beautified at a cost of £500 in 1869. Ebenezer Smith, Oxon., Vicar.

Beati qui habitant in domo tua domine
In ssccula sseculorum laudant te."

There are several neat stain-glass memorial windows, and the altar-
cloth, cushions, and stools, are very beautiful. The design of the
cushions is a cross and fleur-de-lis alternately, and is a copy of that, so

* The foundation ruins of this ancient building are still traceable on the rocky
promontory between Twisleton Hall and the Manor House.

246

much admired, in the old Priory Church at Cartmel. The dimensions of
the church, it may be interesting to add, are 48 feet long by 22 feet wide.*
The church and little "God's Acre" outside, where the "rude
forefathers of the hamlet sleep," have been rendered famous by Southey's
exquisite description in the Doctor. The average annual interments,
according to the registers for a century back, have been but two. The
picturesque situation and peaceful retirement of the hallowed spot might
make one,— as poor Keats said of the beautiful Italian cemetery in
which he is now at rest, — in love with death. We are, forsooth, while
thus meditating in these quiet shades, involuntarily reminded of those
divine lines of Moore :

Go, wing thy flight from star to star,
From world to luminous world, as far

As the universe spreads its flaming wall ;
Take all the pleasures of all the spheres,
And multiply each through endless years,

One minute of heaven is worth them all.

Southey makes mention of a porch to the church, which, however,
never had any existence ; and the " low stone wall," also referred to in
the Doctor,] is now no longer the same, for since the restoration of the
building the church-yard has been extended, and the wall done away
with, which became necessary in consequence of the heavy demand upon
its little space for interments from the works at Batty Green, during the
construction of the Settle and Carlisle Railway.^

There are several very astonishing caves or chasms within a short
distance of the chapel. About 70 to 80 yards on the north side, high
up on the right bank of the stream, is Hurtle Pot, a deep oval opening,
which may be entered by a cleft in the rock on the south side, and a
steep descent made by a series of steps, with the assistance of a hand-
rail, to the dark, gruesome pool which fills the bottom of the breach.
This pool is ordinarily 25 to 30 feet deep, and when agitated by throwing
in stones, or by a rapid accession of water, it hurtles against the choked
fissures of the limestone, and produces a curious throb-like noise called
by the dalesfolk the " Hurtle Pot Boggart." The greatest depth of the
hole is 90 feet, and its width from 30 to 40 feet, and in times of flood it
sometimes " boils over," and then the roar of the confined waters as they
are being churned within the open-mouthed rocky cistern is tremendous.
The impending rocks and trees add much to the impressive gloom of the
place, and especially if you should be here when

— the cowled and dusky-sandalled eve,
In mourning weeds, from out the western gate,
Departs with silent pace.

Small black trout are said to be caught sometimes in the pool.

* Compare with other small churches, mentioned on page 140. f ^ r °l *» P- &7.

\ The average number of burials here then exceeded 40 per annum.

247

Gingle Pot is another great natural rift, situate a short distance
higher up the glen, and close to the surface bed of the stream. This is
generally dry, but in floods the chasm, unable to carry off the excess of
waters received by its subterranean channels, overflows, and an
accumulation of pebbles (many of large size) and mud, forced upwards
from the bottom by the powerful rush of the water, may be observed on
its under or down-stream ledges. The Pot is at the foot of a rugged,
shrub-decked precipice about 50 feet in height. Round about it the
pretty Blue Moor-grass (S. cwrulea) grows in some profusion. The
hole is 48 feet deep on the north side ; about 70 feet long, and has an
average width of 10 feet. Stones thrown into it produce a peculiar
gingling sound as they rattle down its sloping sides, hence the name of
the Pot.

But the most surprising and wonderful abyss of this group is the
famous Weathercote Cave, close to Gingle Pot. As an example of a
large, Nature-formed, abrupt, and profound hiatus in the rock, receiving
a cataract of majestic proportions, it is a marvellous production, and is
certainly without rival in England. The spectacle is all the more
astonishing as the huge rift is perfectly accessible, and may be viewed
from the bottom, at the foot of the fall. Until quite close to the chasm
the tourist is not conscious of its existence by any indications around or
upon the adjacent surface. The fissure, or pit, as it really appears, opens
horizontally on the top, and occupies a rather low situation, enclosed by
a circular wall, and is overshadowed by numerous trees and shrubs.
There is a charge of Gd. for admission to see it, as it is situated in
private property, and judiciously protected by the owner, Mr. Metcalfe,
whose house (the original of Daniel Dove's in Southey's story of the
Doctor) is close by.

Immediately on entering, the visitor is struck with the strange and
forbidding aspects of the grim scene, which are sensibly increased by
the deep-toned roar and swirl of the everlasting cataract as it plunges
wildly into the contracted abyss below. The cavern, which is in the
mountain limestone, and is entirely worn out by water, has no doubt at
some period been covered in, and the water, now open to a subdued
day-light, has then descended in darkness. It is divided into two parts
by an immense natural bridge ten yards long and four in width, from
which spring side vaults or recesses fissured by subterranean waters. A
descent is made by a rude stair, passing on the right a bridge of two
arches, and on the left, at the base of the fall, a tremendous rift or
chamber about 10 yards in width and 25 yards in length. To the left
a small torrent of water comes down a narrow ruin-ljke opening in the
rock, appropriately called the " chimney," above which, in dry weather,
the watercourse may be penetrated some little distance beyond. A

-248

farther descent of about 60 steps brings the tourist to an angle of the
chasm and to the foot of the fall. The rocks here ascend to a vertical
height of 108 feet, and the water is seen leaping from a large cavity
83 feet below the surface, and
expanding into a misty sheet of
bright dissolving particles, drops
75 ft. below with such tremendous
violence into the stony whirlpool
at our feet, that the noise and
reverberation of the clashing
waters render conversation an
impossibility. Such a body of
water in such a peculiar situation
makes, indeed, a sublime and over-
powering sight, and particularly
so after a moderate supply of
rain. In flood the watercourses
become surcharged and precipitate
their contents by numerous under-
ground crannies in the rock,
while the usually dry bed of the
river to the north is also glutted,
and ponring its volume over the
summit on to the cascades below,
fills the cave to the brim, leaving
its wreckage upon the impending
ledges and trees.

Below the point of effluence
of the fullisaciiriously-suspended
rock, shaped somewhat like a
sarcophagus, and on this account
is called Mahomet's Coffin. It
has retained this position from
time immemorial, and though
Weathercote Cave. apparently supported by the

frailest ledges, is ascertained to be perfectly secure. These lines in
The Ceni-i of Shelley, may be aptly applied to it.
" And in its depth there is a mighty rock
Which haa. from unimaginable years.
Sustained itself with terror and with toil
Over a gulf, and with the agony

With which it seems to cliug eeeinn slowly coming down."
The water ordinarily escapes by a low, tunnel-shaped cave at the
foot of the fall, to re-appear, as before stated, in the Dale below. It is

249

ail additional attraction to visit the cave while the sun is shining into it
towards mid-day, for then a most beautiful rainbow is formed by the
ascending sun-lit spray, which for size and brilliance, we do not
remember to have seen equalled by such display upon any English
waterfall. The celebrated artists, J. M. W. Turner and W. Westall,
have painted the scene under this striking aspect.

Upon emerging from the darkness and uproar of the rugged torrent-
lashed chasm, what a contrast the fresh, tranquil scene upon the
surrounding landscape presents ! Says Robert Story, the Craven poet :

" What calmer, what holier emotions prevail
In the breast that beholds thee, sweet Chapel -le- Dale !
And oh ! when I think on the struggle, the strife,
The pomp, and the pride, and the nonsense of life,
And know that all ends, when the turmoil is past,
In the quiet and calm of the churchyard at last, —
The toils of the learned, and the feats of the brave,
Seem the vain noise of waters in Weathercote Cave !"

Before continuing our ascent of the romantic Dale, we must point
out and explain the series of important caverns, rifts, and gulfs which
honeycomb the western flanks of Ingleborough, and which we have
passed on the borders of our journey up the Dale. The first of these is
Great Douk Cave, a remarkable subterranean vault, which almost rivals
the famous Clapham Cave in its penetrable extent. It lies within a
hollow in the third pasture south of the Hill inn, about a half-mile from
the road, whence its situation may be identified by a conspicuous bend
in the wall. The tourist enters a long and immense funnel-shaped
depression, about 100 feet wide, and enclosed with perpendicular cliffs
60 to 70 feet in height. A mountain torrent descends into the cave at
its upper end, which is now open over part of its course, as the rocks
have fallen in, and issues at the small cascade, near which an entrance
may be effected. There is a small fault observable in the strata, having
a downthrow north of 3 to 4 feet, and coinciding with the present
stream-bed. On clambering into the cave, the tourist encounters an
accumulation of water, which soon intercepts the forward path, but this may
be avoided by passing through an opening on the right ; and proceeding
along the rock-strewn gallery a distance of 70 to 80 yards, a deep,
natural shaft will be entered, into which weird, shadow-making daylight
streams down from an opening high above. This is called Little Douk
Cave, where frequently the bones and other remains of sheep and rabbits
that have met with a treacherous fate, are found rotting in the sunless
depths of the chasm. The huge shaft is nearly 50 feet high, and
looking up we observe that it gradually narrows to the top, where it is
partially concealed by bushes. Beyond this point the cavern may be

250

explored a distance of several hundred yards. In some places it is wide
and lofty, reaching a height of even 40 to 50 feet ; in others narrow and
long, so that a stooping posture is necessary, and the broken, rocky,
water-logged bottom has to be traversed with caution. There is, however,
no real danger so long as the explorer is well equipped with lights, and
with shoes and garments that will stand a little wetting. Towards its
upper end the cavern branches into several contracted fissures that run
into the desert heart of Ingleborough, at an altitude of about 1700
feet. They are, everywhere, the channels of underground streams, liable
to sudden floods, and should not be explored except in settled weather.
The roof and sides of the cavern are in many places richly encrusted
with a variety of curious petrifactions, but many of these, it is deplorable
to relate, have been either ruthlessly broken, or wholly carried off.

On the same mountain plateau, a little distance to the south, is Far
Douk Cave, a deep, narrow cavity in the limestone, which receives a
flow of water at its eastern or more open extremity, but this gloomy
hiatus is too steep and slippery to be descended with safety. A few
hundred yards to the south of this, again, is another huge opening called
Barefoot Wives' Hole, or Braithwaite Wife Hole, according to the
Geological Survey. It is a large, dry, circular opening, 170 yards
round, and 25 yards dee}). Glacial drift, composed of clay and gravel,
is exhibited to a depth of about 20 feet, below which is the limestone,
and, says Mr. Tiddeman, at the junction of the two, on the S.E. side of
the Pot, were to be seen glacial striae, indicating ice-movement in a
south-westerly direction.

Mere Gill, about £ mile south-west of the last-named shake-hole, is a
terrific rift in the Great Scar Limestone, running up to the Hardraw
Scar Limestone, which forms Black Shiver Edge. It lies high up (about
1300 feet) on the sears ^ mile south-east of the mile-stone opposite
God's Bridge in the Dale road, and on the low or south side of the long
wall which comes straight down this side of Ingleborough, The swift-
descending beck which falls into it rises some £ mile above, in a spur of
the mountain called Swine's Tail (2000 feet), and when there is a good
body of water coming down the scene at the head of the Gill is in the
highest degree romantic. The torrent falls "by a succession of low
cascades, and is then precipitated in one grand, final leap of 45 feet into
the yawning profundity of the abyss.- The gap or fissure, which is about
80 yards long, is in some places so narrow that a child might jump
across it, and on this account, in fogs and in winter, when it is sometimes
snowed level with the adjoining ground, it becomes a trap of no small
danger to unsuspecting shepherds and their flocks. The depth of the
chasm is fully 100 feet, and nearly half of this, or from 40 to 45 feet, is
ordinarily in water. Trout of large size have been taken from this-

251

Cimmerian pool, and it is also said that bones of animals, if not of human
beings, as well as articles of value lost by visitors, lie buried in its
ice-cold depths. It is possible to descend at one point by a yielding
sandy slope, even to the brink of this abysmal lake, but there is nothing
to be gained by such bold enterprise, and the risks of a watery grave
will, we opine, be no temptation even to the most intrepid searcher into
Nature's mysteries. The waters of the pool are supposed to emerge, as.
before stated, at the foot of the hill, where they flow into the Dale beck
near God's Bridge.

The next, southward, of this extraordinary series, is Tatham Wife
Hole (1400 feet), situate about £ mile west of the centre-summit of
Ingleborough. It is a tremendous sink-hole, 120 yards in circumference
and 18 yards deep. It is somewhat singular that so many chasms of
this kind should go by the name of Wife Holes. Local tradition has-
preserved in one or two instances an explanation, elsewhere given, of the
names of these abysses from long-forgotten suicides, or accidents having
befallen the parties so designated. At Tatham Wife Hole the whole
thickness, nearly 40 feet, of the Hardraw Scar Limestone is thrown up
by a fault running E.S.E. to the gap above Foals Foot, where the fault
bifurcates. At Foals Foot the mountain is rent and fretted in a peculiar
manner, and forms some pot-holes among the broken rocks of similar
interest.

But let us now for the present give up " fault " finding, and turn
round and direct our steps from Ingleborough up the Dale, along the
eastern or opposite flanks of Whernside, where many a surging hill-
beck and cloud-born torrent have formed wondrous caverns of surpassing
interest. To see these the tourist is recommended to take the cart-road
from a gate on the left about midway between the Chapel-le-Dale post
office and the Hill inn. By this route Gatekirk, Bruntscar, Homeshaw,
and Ivescar Caves are passed, emerging near Batty Wife Hole at
Ribblehead.

Gatekirk Cave is along the course of the Dale Beck, and may be
reached by following the usually dry bed of the river up to its debouchure.
The water is lost through various underground channels, and in the
course of its hidden passage receives the Ellerbeck and its tributaries
from the slopes of Whernside, which, united, form the grand cataract
previously described in Weathercote Cave. The tunnel-sha]>ed entrance
is in a wooded gill, and is about 7 feet high, but rapidly increases in
area as we proceed. After a freshet the floor of the passage is choked
with water, and at all times there are places where the stream spreads
and collects into falls and pools, which require adroit stepping. The
cavern is also piled up with many huge masses of limestone which have
fallen from the roof, and at intervals this is open to the light. Some of

252

these rocks are stranded in peculiar positions, and by their shape and
situation exhibit the most remarkable features ; some resembling great
stone coffins enclosed in natural vaults, and reared upright or laid flat
along the scared ledges. The higher parts of the roof and ledges are
curiously embellished with lustrous spar-tracery and stalactites, but
wherever these have been attainable, they have fallen a prey to the
ruthless hand of the despoiler. Formerly, it is said, a portion of one
side of the gallery formed a continuous shelf of Nature-wrought statuary,
where the mysterious genii of the cave had api>arently fashioned out of
the crystal lime-drops images and resemblances of marvellous design
and beauty ; and when, too, you held up your light at many points the
delicate encrustations sparkled like stars in the dark vault. The cavern has
several extensive branches, and the subdued and sullen roar of, doubtless,
large cascades may be heard far up in the heart of Whernside. Owing
to the difficulty of access these have not been fully explored, the passages
being in some places blocked with immovable boulders of limestone,
bridging deep pools. After proceeding about 80 to 100 yards the
cave-hunter may conveniently emerge by a circular cleft in the rock to
the outer world. During these subterranean voyages it is well to be
amply provided with dij)s and matches, which should not be carried in
one box or pocket, as a single, sudden spout of water may extinguish, or
render useless the whole lot. Metal match-boxes are also the best for
this purpose.

Now, leaving the playful beck to gambol at hide-and-seek a-down the
Dale, the tourist, on striking westward across the pastures in the direction
of Whernside will, in a few minutes, reach Bruntscar House. It is a
substantial, pleasant old building, with a nice bit of garden in front, and
over one of its doors is carved the date 1689, and initials P.P., M.P.,
with roses, thistles, and fleur-de-lis also cut on each side. The initials
are those of Peter Proctor and his wife ; the Proctors being a very old
local family, already several times mentioned by us. They were originally
connected with Fountains Abbey, and came into Craven when the monks
had their bercary and browsing flocks on Fountains ^ Fell. Some
members of the family were long resident at Boardley, near Malham,
and others were settled at Gargrave, Clapham, &c.

But the most peculiar thing about this house is that for nearly two
centuries the inmates were unaware that their back-door, or rather back-
wall of the dwelling was built against a cavern of wondrous and
unknown extent. Up against this side of the house is a long natural
rockery, clothed with moss, ferns, and various shrubs, and as the
rumbling of underground waters had frequently been heard beneath the
house, it was decided to break through the limestone barrier close to the
rear wall of the building. This was accordingly done in 1865 by the

253

owner, Mr. F. Kidd, of Blue Hall, Ingleton, and the mysteries of this
vast underground vault were thereupon in part disclosed.

Permission having been obtained, the tourist must go round to the
back of the premises, as there is no door on this side, and clambering
down the steps, descend into a cellar-like cavity below the foundations of
the house, in which is a pool of water containing a tame trout. The
active little fish seems in no way disconcerted with its darksome prison,
and will allow itself to be fed by the hand. On entering the cave by an
iron gate, which is kept fastened for the preservation of the stalactites,
the tourist is soon made aware of the presence of a copious supply of
water running through the cave, and must be prepared for a wetting.
Yet some portions of the passage have been blasted, so that progress is
not difficult so far as mere elbow-room is concerned, and also in ordinary
weather, by cautious stepping, the clothes and boots may be kept
comparatively dry. It is as well, however, to be prepared. Some little
distance in there is a fine double cascade, and the roof and walls of the
spacious cavern glisten with a variety of large and beautiful encrustations.
High above the stream there is a narrow opening, richly decorated with
many opal-like transparencies, and extending at right angles to an
unknown distance. We heard of two young dalesmen who had lately
penetrated this lonesome gallery a considerable length, and after the
dripping roof had repeatedly extinguished their candles, they were about
to re-light them, when, by mischance, they let fall their matches into the
water, and were left in total darkness to make the best of their way out.
This Avas no easy matter, as the roof being low, projecting masses of
rock and impending stalactites thwarted every step, and no little damage
was done to the latter, not to mention the wounds inflicted by contact
with the heads of the adventurous explorers. After some hours of
uncomfortable incarceration they managed to reach the waterfall, much
bruised, and with not a dry " rag " on, and here they were fortunately
met by a rescue party who, becoming concerned at their long absence,
had entered the cave to make out, if possible, what had befallen them.
The lesson to be derived from this adventure is, we may repeat, not to
carry all your matches in one box.

The streams which flow underground from the south-eastern buttress
of Whernside form several cascades in the cavern, at altitudes of 1300 —
1400 feet, in the mountain. On reaching the second waterfall, the long
gallery expands into a fine, lofty chamber, appropriately termed the
church. Here, there is a so-called organ, which when gently tapped
produces a variety of harmonious sounds ; a belfry, with lengthy
suspended bell-ropes ; and a font brimming over with crystal water.
The scenery of this portion of the cave is as wonderful as it is exquisite.
There are to be seen all manner of grotesque images and resemblances.

254

as if carved in pure ivory, such as heads and limbs of various animals ;
birds with expanded wings ; bee-hives ; and fairy-gardens with branching
•columnar masses of spar, like ever-frosted trees and shrubs. A piece of
magnesian wire may be burned with advantage in this part of the cave,
which cannot be wholly illuminated with candles, as it contains so many
and curious features of attraction.

On emerging into daylight the next points of greatest interest are the
Boggart Holes at Ivescar House, one mile distant. A path along the
enclosed fell-side leads by Broadrake farmhouse, and in proceeding
towards the conspicuous Ivescar farmhouse, the tourist passes on his left *
a rather fine waterfall, which comes over the face of the scar a little way
from the path. Ordinarily it is a mere dust-shower precipitated in one
leap of 30 feet, but after much rain it is a white, sounding volume, a
yard in width, which falls with grand effect among the shading foliage
around. A short distance above it, near the Scar Top farm, is a rude
shake-hole, encompassed with trees, which opens into a couple of long,
low, narrow cavities. These are the Homeshaw Caves, but the descent
into them is rugged and steep, and, especially in wet weather, not without
danger. They proceed for an unknown length, and are diversified with
numerous low cascades.

We now come to Ivescar House, (Jve being from the Danish hief,
steep), which is a good two-storey erection, built about 14 years ago ; the
old dwelling hard by being now abandoned. Close to the house, in
the face of a picturesque limestone scar, are the famous Boggart Holes,
or Ivescar Cave. They were formerly conjoined, but that on the left, a
few yards in, has got dammed up with flood-wreck, so that only a small
volume of water now emerges from it ; the main stream coming from
the opening on the right. On no account should this cave be entered in
very wet or unsettled weather, as the increase of water that flows through
it is sometimes sudden and prodigious. In passing a short " staircase "
by a moderate-sized chamber, the main gallery continues about 200 yards
into the mountain. There are also several branch passages, but their
roofs are low, and the bottom and sides are everywhere much broken,
and bear evidence of the passage of violent floods. During several
floods in the early part of the present century a number of silver coins
of the reign of Edward I. were from time to time washed out of this
cave. It is very probable they were portions of treasure concealed by the
natives during the Scottish raids after Bannockburn, when the inhabitants
of Ingleton, and, in fact, the whole district, suffered much from these
predatory attacks, as previously mentioned.* It is also said that gold

* A silver penny of the same age (Edward I.) has been found in au old lead
working near Hawkswick in Littondale. The coin is now in the possession of the
Ven. Archdeacon Boyd.

255

coins of later date have been washed out of the same opening. There
is a tradition that " loads of gold " lie concealed somewhere in this cave !
But many a search has been made, and never a coin has been found.
They are apparently only to be dislodged by old dame Time on her
washing-days !

Only about a stone's throw above Ivescar is another extensive opening,
partially concealed by shrubs, called Browside Cave. It occupies a
depression excavated by a stream flowing down eastwards to the cave.
It is not very easy of access, and winds about a good deal, yet the seeker
after adventure may find some interest tending, perhaps, to develop his
bump of discovery, and, if not careful, his cranium too, by tracing the
rapid sinuosities of the cavern.

The tourist has at this point ascended half the height of Whemside,
and the summit (2414 feet) may be conveniently reached by striking the
acclivity in front, and walking along the gable northwards to the top.

Should he not proceed any higher than the cave at Ivescar, let him
follow the well-marked path through moist meadows, gemmed as they
are with many choice flowers, &c, such as the Grass of Parnassus, and
the pretty Bog Asphodel ; and crossing the Dale beck by a wooden
bridge, follow the road which runs between Gunnerfleet and the white
house at Winterscales, going under the long viaduct, and round by
Batty Wife Hole on to the main road at Ribblehead.

Here, at the summit of the watershed between the Ribble and the
Lune, may be observed on the Chapel-le-Dale road, about 1 00 yards or
so from the viaduct, a dark gritstone erratic left by the great glacier that
descended the Dale between Ingleborough and Whernside untold ages
ago, — or, to be as exact as we can, according to recent hypotheses, the ice
encroached upon our dales 24 — 25,000 years ago, and had finally retreated
5 — 6000 years ago, so that glaciers filled our dales for the comparatively
short period, say, of 19,000 years.* This is very different from the
commonly accredited duration of the Ice Age in Britain for a period of
at least 100,000 years, — an astronomical deduction based, as is well
known, on a supposed extraordinary variation in the eccentricity of the
earth's orbit round the sun. But the later and more likely theory of the
second rotation of the earth, conforming as it does with well-ascertained
geological facts, leaves a strong probability that our Yorkshire uplands
endured an Arctic climate at no very enormous distance of time, and
that, in fact, existing glaciers in the Mid-Continental Ali)s are the
wasting vestiges of that remote catastrophe, yet which is much more
recent than is usually supposed. f

* See " Edinburgh Review," ccclx. (April, 1892).
f See our remarks on denudation at Norber, p. 171.

256

Other stones like the iibove occupy the surrounding pastures. Over
the wall on the right there is a long, broken limestone pavement, and nt
its north-west angle one such large upright boulder may be seen with its
longer axis (x>ise<1 on the limestone in the direction of the valley.

Nearer the wall there are indications of a rude, double circle,
artificially formed of these dark, weathered grits. The inner circle is
about 2(1 yards in diameter, and the outer one forms a narrow aisle
surrounding it, with an outlet to the north ; but some of the stones have
been removed, probably to build and repair the adjoining fences. The
situation is open, and commands the country on all sides between the
lofty moors and summits that hem in the dale-head. On the opposite
side of the road are the remains of a couple of large cairns. They are
presumably Danish. One was opened about a century ago, and found to
cover a rude stone coffin containing an entire human skeleton. The
other large pile does not appear ever to have l>cen examined. It is more
than probable that many a furious battle has been waged here, as the
possession of this prominent ridge, which dominates so many particular
outlets, must have been of capital importance to every hostile tribe.

257

CHAPTER XXIII.

Through Kingsdale to Dent.

Character of Kingsdale — Danish occupation — Keld Head — Braida Garth—
Grey garth Boulders — Various Pot- Holes— Row ten Cave ; a tremendous chasm
—Other" Pots"— Yordas Cave -Braida Garth " Pots "— Pre-historic cairn—
Kingsdale Head — Grand view — The Dent Fault, and glacial evidence.

GAIN we will set out on another inspiriting cave-hunting
expedition, for the scars that bound the dales around
Ingleton teem with these great natural curiosities ; and yet
how few people know anything about them ! Although they
are all formed mainly by the same process, namely, the undermining
action of water, yet the caprices of this element upon the yielding
limestone are so various that no two are alike. Also in respect to
situation, size, and aspect, they frequently widely differ, while each
possesses features that must often strike the beholder with surprise
and awe.

Our tour of discovery will take us through lonely Kingsdale to Dent,
a journey from Ingleton of about 10 miles. And it is worth every inch
of the distance, not only in interest, but in point of mileage, too, for the
road rises from Ingleton (500 feet) to nearly 1500 feet at the summit of
the pass, and then descends, with magnificent views, 1000 feet into the
romantic out-of-the-way little village of Dent.

This Kingsdale is a wild, solitary valley, with only a couple of houses
in it, — old steadings once farmed by the warlike Danes — and even in
summer-time there is a look of wintry desolation about it. Yet it has
many attractions to the summer-day tourist, as we shall presently point
out, and in winter, — taking a dry, cold, bracing day, — what an
impressively grand walk you may have through this secluded dale !
The grim snow-wreathed mountains, now spotless and serene, sparkle
along their upper zones against the bright blue sky, and the silent,
far-extending glen is beautifully and wholly mantled in the whitest of
Nature's robes, — saving where tassels and bars of silver-like ice fringe the
bare grey scars, and which shine with ever-changing radiance in the
mellow sun. Miniature avalanches, likewise, with their tumbled wreck,
here and there bank the slopes along the edges of the dale. Perhaps at

258

the top of the pass your road is cut through deep drifts of snow, and
you begin to descend in the teeth of an ice-cold blast— a veritable whiff
from the Pole — that seems to freeze your very bones, but when you
reach the deep shelter of the valley, how the invigorated blood is suffused
with a warm, ruddy glow through your whole frame. Your pace then
naturally quickens, and at last arrived at your inn, what a foray you make
on the home cheese and haverbread, taken with a glass of rich new milk,
or, perhaps, a mug of spiced ale, which you heartily declare to be the
finest repast you ever had in your life ! No need to go to Switzerland,
say you, with grand dales and snow-peaks like these investing with so
much interest our much too-neglected Yorkshire Highlands.

The dale is covered with morainic drift and alluvium, and was once
filled with lakes, left by an immense glacier, and various inflowing
streams, thousands of years ago. The ice must have been 600 to 700
feet thick, filling the whole width of the dale, grinding against the crags,
and dropping huge boulders on its path just as we see them pitched about
the scars to-day. The becks and springs play the same underground
antics as in other dales we have described.

To get into Kingsdale there are various ways. (1) By Broad wood
and through the grand Pecca Fall Glen to Thornton Force, whence,
keeping the stream on the right, enter the dale road £ mile above. (2) By
the main road to Dent (9 £ miles) from Thornton Church. (3) From
Broad wood there is a path ascends the plantation behind a photo-studio,
and leading through the fields, comes out on the main road at Thornton
Hall. This is the shortest route in point of time, but is not so interesting
as going through the glen. Ascending the road from Thornton Hall
you shortly pass a grassy cart-road on the left, which goes under Tow
Scar towards Masongill. This road may be followed to its junction
(| mile) with the turbary road on to Greygarth, and ascending it on the
right you soon come to where the wall runs singly on to the fell, and
here, on the east side, is a yawning break in the limestone, about 12
yards deep. This is known as Little Pot, not so very little either, but
still a mere sugar-basin compared with what we shall see further on.

Over the wall to the north a small plantation will be observed almost
within a stone's throw up on the fell side, and here there is, half -hidden
from view, a frightful rift in the mountain called Marble Steps Pot. A
small torrent descends into the gulf over a rude, slippery " staircase " on
the east side, a depth of 18 yards, and then plunges into darkness nearly
30 yards further of perpendicular depth. Another small stream enters
on the opposite side, beside which a descent to the final great plunge can
be made into the Pot, but great caution must be exercised, and most
tourists will be satisfied with peering into the abyss from the top. It is
about 10 yards wide, and beautifully fringed with moss and shrubs.

259

As it takes us rather out of the way to view the above objects by the
ordinary route to Dent, we may, without loss of time, follow the
Kingsdale road without making this divergence, and when in the bottom,
about 100 yards beyond the sheep- wash, and the bridgeless beck at the
foot of Twisleton lane ; pass on the right, close beneath the wall, the
famous Keld Head. Here the main volume of the Twiss, which forms
Thornton Force and the Pecca Falls, comes from under a low breast of
limestone, after an underground, and somewhat precipitous flight of
nearly two miles from above Yordas Cave. The spring bubbles up in
great volume, and receives in the course of its extraordinary journey a
number of tributary becks, which carve and fashion deep mysterious
channels and caverns in the flanks of Greygarth, and must tumble in
many a grand cascade in the dark entrails of the mountain. It is,
indeed, not improbable that an immense cavern extends some distance
behind the outlet. The pebbly river bed above the spring is ordinarily
dry to near its junction with the Buck and Gaze Gill becks, two miles
higher up the valley. The main, or Buck beck, it may be remarked,
springs high up on a western spur of Whernside, as the Weas or Dale
beck in Chapel-le-Dale rises on the east side of the mountain.

The tourist may now, when about 100 yards beyond the way which
diverges to the farmhouse at Braida Garth, quit the main road by a gate
which opens on to the fell, and keeping a short distance from the wall,
he will come in a few minutes to two magnificent limestone boulders,
perched on bases of the same weathered rock. They are upwards of 20
feet in circumference, and 10 feet high, and, on a patch of drift, sustain
three or four species of ferns. They are fine, commanding objects.
About 200 yards above, you come to the turbary road now to be
mentioned.

As Yordas Cave, however, is the gem of the dale, the tourist should
instruct the guide at Braida Garth, above mentioned, to meet him there,
say in an hour's time, which will allow of the various objects hereafter
named being visited. Braida Garth, I may here mention, is pure Norse,
meaning broad field or enclosure,* a sufficient indication that this part
of the dale has at all events been tenanted ever since the days of the
Vikings. The Norwegian word for a farmhouse is gaartl.

Perhaps the readiest way will be to leave the road about 100 yards
this side the bridge, which leads to the guide's house, where two or three
thorn trees grow close together on the scar. On climbing up here where
the scar tapers off you will come in a few minutes to a solitary thorn tree,
apparently bent by the blast, at least that is the popular notion. But
an inspection of this peculiar woody growth, as of any other tree

* See Moore's " Surnames and Place Names of the Isle of Man," (1890), p. 139.

260

similarly inclined in an exposed situation, will reveal the fact that the
tree has not been bent by the gale, which sometimes sweeps with terrific
fury across this high moor, but that the branches, have year by year,
sought shelter as it were, by growing away from the prevailing wind.
These stretch out from 9 to 10 feet eastwards, — in appearance like a
turned umbrella, — and on the opposite side the tree is quite straight and
branchless, being exposed to the prevailing south-westerly gales. Last
September I picked up, dead, on the rock close by, a fine young herring-
gull, which had evidently but recently died, while making its way from
coast to coast. It was a fine bird, in beautiful plumage, and measured
3£ feet between the tips of its outstretched wings.

A short distance above this is Kale (A.S. kehl, a gorge, throat, or
gap) or Thorney Pot, a large orifice in the limestone 33 feet deep, with
a peculiar cavity at the north corner, which goes down 20 feet further.
Keeping to the right you come on to the turbary road which continues
to near Yordas. At the termination of the wall here, which runs
towards Greygarth, follow the little beck course up about 400 yards, and
you will come to Swinto Hole or Cave (A.S. swin 9 a wild boar). You
can, if you like, lower yourself through an aperture about the size of a
hat-box, and descend into a double- vaulted gallery made by a curtain of
stalagmite. This may not be a tempting operation to most people,
but the hole presently emerges into a pretty high chamber, studded
with columnar spar, and containing a meagre waterfall with a drop of
nearly 30 feet.

Proceeding now along the above turbary road, you soon come to a
gate, and opening it you come shortly to another gate, close to which,
on the right of the road, is the most awful open fissure on this side of
the dale. This is Rowten or Rowantree Hole and Cave. It is a terrible-
looking hiatus about 30 yards long at the surface, 12 yards at its greatest
width, and barely 4 yards at its narrowest. It is densely hung with
trees and shrubs, while many ferns and mosses, moistened with the
continuous vapours that rise from the gloomy vaults below, clothe the
rifted walls. It is impossible to explore this immense underground
opening without the aid of ropes, and the explorer would also do well to
go without stockings, and array himself in any cast-off garments of
sufficient protection against sudden or spontaneous shower baths. The
gulf contains a number of rapidly-descending cascades, whose splash and
spray it is impossible always to avoid. At the north end a short ladder
enables you to descend the mouth to a narrow platform, from which a
further drop lands you among the thick shrubby undergrowth at the
brink of the chasm. The exact extent of the cave has not been
determined. It goes down to a great depth, and possibly branches on
the south side, where one gap has been plumbed to a depth of over 200

- .— .-_ . ,.

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feet. But Mr. Carr, of Ingleton, states that an exploring party once
descended one of these breaks to a depth of 351 feet, when following a
horizontal passage for a considerable distance they met with a
perpendicular opening, and lowering themselves down by successive
stages, ultimately reached a depth of not less tlun 600 feet, but this was
not the bottom ! The uppermost mouth of the cave is about 150 yards
to the west of the great gulf, and is entered by a spacious rocky arch-
way, and along the course of the stream there is a fine spout of water
ejected from a small opening in the rock above, against which the
tourist should be on his guard. The track has usually for a hundred
yards or so to be waded over the boot-tops, and then proceeding, with
due caution, by several cross fissures, the verge of the precipice is
reached, where, in the semi-gloom of the profound abyss, the water is
poured over its ledges with mysterious and perpetually echoing din.

Following the road into the next allotment we come to Gingle Pot,
another of these abrupt openings, so named from the hollow, rattling
sound produced by throwing stones into it. The fissure is 30 feet long,
6 feet across the centre, and tapering towards the ends. Its greatest
ascertained depth is 146 feet. On the west, a small stream enters a low
cave, which forms a continuous shallow passage that may be followed for
a distance of nearly 250 yards.

On going through the gate and proceeding about 200 yards, the road
descends and crosses the rocky bed of a mountain burn, which just below
disappears in another chasm of some depth. This is Bull Pot. The
small opening is covered in at the top with large fragments of limestone,
on peering down between which the tourist may see and hear the rush of
foam-white descending waters. The visible depth, however, is not more
than 40 feet.

Hence, by following the road to the gate at the top, or keeping a
little below, along the scar-line of quickly-succeeding incipient " pots,"
you come in £-mile to the pine plantation, in which is the grand Yordas
Cave. The rather gloomily -situated, yet picturesque entrance to this
wonderful aperture lies within 100 yards to the left of the highway, just
before you rise the hill to Dent, and within a mile of the guide's house
at Braida Oarth. It is 4^ miles from Ingleton. A descent is made
down 13 constructed steps into a level porch-like opening, 7 feet high,
and proceeding along an ample passage, a vast and magnificent chamber,
of, at first, unseen proportions, is then entered, the like of which is
certainly unrivalled in England. This is the great Hall of Yordas, —
the fabulous giant from Norway, — and there we see his throne, his
bed-chamber, his water-bowl, his flitch of bacon, his mill and his oven
wherein he ground and baked the big white stones, or, as the guide will
tell us, the bones of naughty boys and girls, into bread ! How feeble

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and diminutive the dumb-struck beholder thinks himself while gazing
with rapt wonder around this immense domed vault ! The guide mounts
a rock, and holding .up a bevy of candles at the end of a fifteen-foot
pole, reveals something of its grand dimensions. Stone on stone, wall
on wall, it rises up to a height of nearly 80 feet, extending westward
190 feet, with an average width of 50 feet. A choir of a thousand
voices might congregate in this great, church-like alcove, and hymn
praises to the Almighty Maker while contemplating a scene so divinely
strange and beautiful. At the north-east corner is a wonderfully-
fashioned canopy, supported by wreathed and fluted pillars of pure
stalactite, appropriately called the Bishop's Throne. Other resemblances
are the Organ and Key-board, the Belfry, Eagle with outspread wings,
Ram's Head, Brown Bear, White Bear crouched on an iceberg, the
Gauntlet, Escutcheon, the Ghost, (beware !), and the dead, old genius of
the cave — grim Yordas, in his coat of mail, with mighty frozen arm and
clenched fist, raised in seeming defiance of anyone who dared to dispute
his sovereignty of these priceless, gem-studded halls.

Illuminated with a Bengal light, the scene within this great chamber
is exceedingly grand. A narrow opening on the left conducts to another
smaller apartment called the Chapter House, having a dome-like roof,
about 40 feet high, supported with slender, spiral columns, and decorated
with exquisite tracery, and numerous depending stalactites. Into this
circular-shaped room a musical cascade falls from a rock at the north end
a height of about 30 feet, and then sinks into the earth to rise, — never
again, or — according to the local tradition, " nowhere in this nation."
In floods, the water sometimes rises to a great height in the cave, and
deposits of sand and mud may be observed nearly 20 feet above the
ordinary bed of the stream.

Housman (1812) relates the following peculiar incidents concerning
Yordas Cave : " About half-a-century ago, a lunatic escaped from his
friends at or near Ingleton, and lived here upwards of a week in the
winter season, having previously provided himself with cheese and other
provisions. Snow being on the ground, he was sagacious enough to pull
the heels off his shoes, and set them on inverted at the toes, to prevent
being traced. Since that time, a poor woman, big with child, travelling
alone through this inhospitable vale to Dentdale, was taken in labour,
and found dead in this cave."

On the opposite side of the dale are a few small gaps in the limestone,
bub hardly deserving of a special visit, after having seen those already
described. They occupy a nearly straight line on the scar a little to the
south-east of Braida Garth House. The most northern is the Pin Hole,
or more appositely the Needle Hole, which is a mere " eyelet," 16 feet
deep. The next is Bread Pot, an uncouth cavity descending from a

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bowl-shaped depression, 50 feet deep. Below this is Dungeon or Cellar
Hole, which is 30 feet deep. It can be entered safely on one side, but
the visitor should beware of the miniature waterspout. Lords Top Hole
is the last of this series, and is enclosed with a frail fence. It is a
dangerous and easily-overlooked rift 40 feet in depth. On Scales Moor,
(1850 feet), a few hundred yards east of the last-named, there are a
couple of pot-holes, but of no striking dimensions. The deepest is
barely 60 feet, and contains running water, which becomes audible on
bending over the chasm. There are a few rowan trees near them.

Just below the junction of fche Buck and G-aze Gill becks, between
the Garth House and Yordas, a large round heap of stones can be seen
from the road in Kingsdale. It is similar to that noticed at Ribblehead,
and probably marks the site of some buried warrior fallen in battle while
contesting for the supremacy of the pass. It is hardly likely from its
situation to be early British ; but as the Danes undoubtedly occupied
this valley, it is more probably a relic of that age ; for the ancient
Scandinavians, as is well known, buried their dead under cairns, and also
occasionally raised such piles by the wayside in commemoration of some
great victory. On the Ordnance Map it is poetically designated
u Apron-full of Stones."

We now ascend the pass under frowning Whemside, by the Kingsdale
Head House, to the summit, (1500 feet), whence the prospect Dentwards
is very grand and wild. The sharp outlines of the Howgill Fells stand
out boldly on the county border to the north-west, with the long, elevated
ridge of Rise Hill forming an immense barrier-line which bounds almost
the whole northern extent of the valley of Dent. Close to the road-side
a rather fine waterfall is passed in the Yoredale rocks, and then a descent
is made into Deepdale, an abrupt-sided, secluded little valley, which
strikes into Whernside, and joins the main dale about a mile east of
Dent. Several long, boulder-clay ridges or glacial drumlins will be
observed running parallel with the trend of the valley ; and to the
geologist it may also be remarked that the Dent Fault is here split into
a number of minor branches, which, according to the H.M. Surveyors'
report, runs about S. 30° E. towards the head of Deepdale. Unlike the
Dent Fault they throw the strata down westwards, excepting one or two
nearly parallel fractures seen in Gastack Beck, (the stream descending
Foul Moss eastwards into Deepdale), which is a downthrow to the
north-east.

The rest of the journey to Dent calls for no special comment. It is,
as before stated, a grand walk or drive at any season of the year.

264

CHAPTER XXIV.

Between Ingleton and Kirkby Lonsdale.

Thornton-in-Lonsdale— Site of the village — The church — Ancient burial custom —
Masongill and the Wallers — Edmund Waller, the Court poet — " Barry
Cornwall " and Adelaide Anne Procter — Doyle family— Ireby — Over Hall, and
the Tat ham s— Leek Hall and its pleasant surroundings—Cowan Bridge and
the Brontes— Coaching days— Among the Leek Fell caves— Ease Gill — Roman
road— The Devil's Bridge— When was it built? — Recent flood — Legend of
the Bridge.

E will now leave the cold, lone regions of eternal night, — the

realm of cavernous wonders, — and betake ourselves for

variety's sake along smoother and cheerier paths and lanes,

and through flower-vested meads, dotted with quiet cot and

farm, and grey old hall, rich in historic lore, but about which little or

nothing hitherto has been written.

From Ingleton to Kirkby Lonsdale— our next trip — direct, it is 6^
miles, and the road passes through portions of three counties, viz.,
Yorkshire, Lancashire, and Westmoreland. But the pleasant route we
now propose adds l£ miles to this.

Taking the high-road in question, we come in 1 mile to Thornton
Church. Allen, in his well-known History of tfw County of York,
describes Thornton-in-Lonsdale as " a picturesque parish town." But
where, pray, is the town ? We look in vain for anything but the sturdy
old church, and perhaps equally ancient " pub." close by. The widely-
scattered farms seem to belong to nowhere in particular, and the old
Hall and Vicarage are just as " lonesome " and some distance off. There
is not even so much as a hamlet, although traces of such are discoverable
a little above the present Thornton Hall, and close to the east side of
the road.

The old Hall was a substantial edifice with walls six feet thick, and

is said to have been blown down by Cromwell, in the time of Major

John Redmayne, who, according to the epitaph preserved in Thornton

Church, was

" Firm in his Faith, and valiant for his King,
Stout as an Ajax, just in everything."

265

He died in 1680. A portion of one of the walls of the old Hall now
constitutes part of one of the outbuildings of the present farm-house.
A stone arch, which, at one time covered an open fire-place, is inscribed
with the initials I B and T B, and date 1659. The public-house, before
mentioned, formerly called the Church Stile, but now the Marton Arms,
has an elaborately designed stone above the door, bearing the initials
and date M T W, 1679. But the original inn is probably co-eval
with the church. For if, as Dr. Whitaker maintains, the church was
erected under the influence of the Mowbrays, the members of that
baronial house, whose great castle was at Burton, a few miles off, would
need convenient provision for the stabling of their horses and
accommodation of part of their retinue or body-guard, during their
attendance at mass.

The old church of St. Oswald, which, with the exception of the 15th
century tower, was re-constructed in 1869-70, contains at the west end
of the north arcade three of the original Norman arches, with
contemporary embellishments, an appearance somewhat unusual in this
part of the country, where both arches and capitals are generally plain.
The tower bells are of the date 1635. There are several ancient
memorial tablets to the knightly family of Redmayne, of Thornton Hall.
One of these, placed over the mausoleum of Ralph Redmayne, Esq., who
died in 1703, aged 62, is a curious composition :

Speak Tomb ! can Brass, can Marble die?
They may, my sweaty Fears reply.—
What then endures ?— Goodnesse alone
Survives the Brass, the Marble stone
That warms his Ashes here enshrined.
That beams the Lustre of his Mind.
Let his last Generosity
To Altar. School, and Poverty,
For ever witness this ; and dead.
With deathless Laurels crowne his Head, —
Thus with the actions of the just —
" Smell sweete and blossoine in the Dust."

The registers of the church commence in 1576, and they, as well as
the old parish accounts, contain many curious entries. From among the
latter may be cited the following :

" May 12th, 1665. It is agreed and ordered by the sworn men, concerning
burials in the church, that every corpse that is carried on a woman's head shall be
sixpence, and every corpse that is carried on a bier three and fourpence, to be paid
with other dues, either to the minister or church- wardens, for the use of repairing
the church."

After a peep under the church-yard wall at the time-stained stocks
and whipping-post, with its rusty wrist-iron, of unjoyous memory, we

266

take our leave of this interesting locality, and follow the high-road
through Westhouse, leaving it on the right at the first lane past the post
office, just before coming to the Kirksteads farm, 2 \ miles from Ingleton.
The lane winds up nearly a mile, with a capital view of Ingleborough,
to the quiet little village of Masongill, which stands high up, just within
the Yorkshire border. There are several old dated houses about here,
but the most interesting building of antiquity at this place was the old
Hall, on account of its association with the historic Yorkshire Wallers,
a branch of the family long seated in Buckinghamshire. It stood on
the site of the present farm-house, which was built out of its ruins by
the late Mr. Waller, about the year 1822. It was a large, low moated
grange, with walls of immense thickness ; a* stronghold, doubtless, before
the days of artillery, but Cromwell's Ironsides made short work of it
with their field ordnance, when they visited this neighbourhood to
reason with the malignants. The ancient homestead was then deserted
by the family, and the present Masongill House erected about the middle
of the 18th century. Then the Masongill property passed temporarily
out of the possession of the Wallers, and was purchased by people of the
name of Eccles, but after remaining in their possession some five and
twenty or thirty years, it was re-purchased by the former owners, and
still forms part, of the family estate. When the old Hall was finally
demolished, soon after the last owner's succession to the property,
portions of chain armour and fragments of old weapons were discovered
among the debris, and presented by Mr. Waller to the late Mr. Tatham,
of Lowfields, who took a lively interest in all matters relating to history
and antiquities.

The part played by the Wallers, especially the Kentish and
Buckinghamshire sections of the family, during the politically distressed
times of Charles I. and the Commonwealth, will be familiar to most
students of English History. Of this family was the celebrated Court-
poet and administrator, Edmund Waller, son of Robert Waller, of
Amersham (formerly Agmondesham), Co. Bucks. His mother was a
daughter of John Hampden, and sister to Hampden, the zealous soldier-
statesman who was one of the great opponents of Charles, and a prime
mover in the Civil Wars. Edmund Waller was born at Colshill in 1605,
and at the age of 17 was sent to Parliament. It is singularly noteworthy
that he lived to see and converse with James I., Charles I., Oliver
Cromwell, Charles II. and James II., and with the second, third, and
fourth of these rulers he was politically associated throughout the time
from their assumption of power until their death. At the age of four-score
he was returned M.P. for Saltash, in Cornwall, and at the age of 82, he
died at Beaconsfield, and is buried there.

267

The name of Waller appears to have been originally Waltheof, and,
according to tradition, the family is descended from Waltheof, the father
of Earl Godwin, father of Harold II. The descent is tolerably well
established, although the authentic records do not go further back than
the Battle of Agincourt, where one of the family took prisoner a member
of the French blood-royal, acquiring thereby, according to the heraldic
custom of the day, the right to quarter his prisoner's arms, so that to
this day one of the sixteen quarterings of the old family of Waller is
the Royal Arms of France.

The descent of this Yorkshire branch is through the second son of
the poet, also named Edmund,* who inherited the Hall-barn property,
near Beaconsfield. Benjamin, the eldest son, was, for some reason,
disinherited, and sent out to New Jersey. The Masongill estate, which
is only a remnant of the large possessions of this house, was bequeathed
to the late Mr. Nicholas Procter, by his great uncle, Bryan Waller, on
condition that he should assume the name and arms of Waller only,
which he did, by Royal Warrant, on November 1st, 1816. At that time
he was a boy of 14.

Mr. Nicholas Waller's only brother was the late well-known poet,
Bryan Waller Procter, better known as " Barry Cornwall," who died in
1874, aged 85. His niece, the daughter of the poet, was the almost
equally distinguished poetess, Adelaide Anne Procter, who died in her
80th year, in 1864. The poetic faculty, I may add, is strongly hereditary
in the family, and has manifested itself in other directions besides those
named. Both " Barry Cornwall " and Miss Procter were visitors at
Masongill, and are said to have taken great delight in the beautiful
scenery of the neighbourhood. But not a little of their pleasure was
derived from the magnificent library at Masongill House, which numbers
thousands of volumes, and includes many very valuable first editions,
presentation copies, &c, while some of them are marked by "Barry
Cornwall " and other people of note.

It was only about the year 1840 that Mr. Nicholas Waller became a
regular resident at Masongill. Before then he lived in London, where
his family had been settled several generations, in a large old country
house near Ampthill Square, Hampstead. He was the son of Nicholas
Procter, and a younger brother of " Barry Cornwall," having been born at
Hampstead in 1802. He married Amelia Procter, a cousin, and died at
Masongill in 1877, leaving an only child, Mr. Bryan Charles Waller, the
present owner of Masongill. Before his marriage, his niece, Miss Agnes
Procter, who died in 1891, kept house for him, and his young nephew,
Montagu, afterwards Major-General Procter, who at that time was
regarded as his heir, also resided with him.

* Sea u Memorials of Fountains Abbey," Surtees Soc. Pub., Ixvii., page 341.

268

Although not an author himself, Mr. Nicholas Waller possessed the
passive faculty in a high degree, and always took great interest in
literature, especially poetry, of which he was an excellent judge. Several
works have been wrongly attributed to him, and among these was
Southey's Doctor, the scene of which was laid at Ingleton, and which, it
will be remembered, was published anonymously. He was well acquainted
with Southey, as also with Wordsworth and the two Colerldges, though
less intimately than his brother, " Barry Cornwall, 1 ' who knew everybody
of consequence in the literary world of his day, including Byron,
Shelley, Keats, Campbell, Moore, Scott, Gifford, Hazlitt, Lockhart,
Tennyson, Browning, Dickens, &c. Browning, as a matter of course,
used to lunch at his house every Sunday. It may not be generally
known that he was the immediate cause of bringing out two of the first
writers of the day, namely, Thackeray and the elder Hood. The
former's great novel. Vanity Fair, was dedicated to " Barry Cornwall,"
and Lord Houghton's beautiful Life of Keats, to his wife, Mrs. Procter.

The sole surviving member of the senior line of this family is
Mr. Bryan Charles Waller, to whom we have before referred, who is now
resident at Masongill, where he was born. Like his gifted progenitors,
he is a skilful and ardent verse-writer, although, in this capacity, he has
not appeared much before the public. A small volume of poems from
his pen was, however, published in 1875, by Messrs. George Bell & Sons,
the title of the book being Twilight Land and other Poems, which is full
of calm, assuasive thought, redolent of the sweetest imagery, and of the
real music of song. Until lately, Mr. Waller has been a busy University
lecturer, and has had little time for literary work, but we understand
that he has another volume nearly completed.

At Masongill, many of our readers will be interested to hear, there
has been living now some time the mother of the now well-known
novelist, Arthur Conan Doyle. She is sister-in-law of the celebrated
Richard Doyle, who designed the cover of Punch, and daughter-in-law
of the famous caricaturist, " H.B." (John Doyle). She has been a friend
of many famous men, including Thackeray, Williams, (the " discoverer "
of Charlotte Bronte), John Hill Burton (the " Book hunter "), Speke,
the explorer, Alexander Smith, Horatio McCulloch, the painter, &c.

Leaving Masongill, a pleasant walk through upland fields, and over
the foot bridge that spans the little Ireby Beck, which, above Over Hall,
forms the dividing line between Yorkshire and Lancashire, and we are
immediately at Ireby. There is not much in the way of a village, but
what there is strikes us by its quaint attractiveness. The white-washed
cottages, big projecting chimney-stacks, odd, irregular buildings, and
one peculiar, front-verandahed house, across which the sun casts side-long
shadows towards the flower-banked brook in the road,— all combining

269

to invite our fane; to some remote Alpine village, where in the hush
of noon we catch, as we think we might do here, the tinkle of cow-bells
and the musical jodel of youthful watchers on the distant fells ! The
village ia very old, and had, as elsewhere noticed, taxable lands mentioned
in Domesday after the Conquest.

Ireby Hall, now called Over Hall, is approached by a short field-path
from the foot-bridge at the top of the village. It is an interesting old
edifice, and must not be confounded with the Tottersgill or Nether Hall,
which is a plain Georgian farmhouse on the low side of the Ingleton
line, and now goes by the name of Ireby Hall. The former, however, is

Over Hall, Ireby.

the original Ireby Hall, or rather a survivor of a still older house. It
is a sturdy mansion, with walls in some places six feet thick, and has att
antique-looking square tower, with open battlements at its north end.
But this tower is comparatively modern, and was added within the
present century. On entering the ancient stone porch, we pass by a
ponderous oak door, pegged with wooden nails, which opens into a
spacious apartment, called the Justice Hall. It was formerly the great
dining hall, and had a low ceiling, but many years ago it was thrown
open to the rooms above, and has now a railed balcony connecting the
same on each side. The stones of the ancient, open fireplace are mason-

270

marked, and within present recollection this fireplace contained a very
large and curious old dog-grate, now unfortunately removed. At one
time this was used as a court-room, and some oak benches, and the table
before which the justices sat, are still preserved. The oldest portion of
the house dates apparently from the earlier years of the 16th century.
But over the main entrance door is the date 1687, and initials G.M.
The original initials were O.T., and were erased (we know not for what
reason) by the late owner, Mr. George Marton, who inserted his own in
place upon acquiring the property from the Tathams.

The house was built, or rather restored, by Oliver Tatham, a member
of a very old gentle family in these parts, whose name occurs in the
earliest local records. The family still survives in the neighbourhood,
an<^ belongs the estate of Low Field, near Burton-in-Lonsdale, but the
owner is non-resident. These Tathams, however, who bear arms, are
not, we understand, in any way connected with a yeoman family of the
same name, now resident in the locality, but originally springing from
Dent. The last of the Tathams, of Over Hall, who was a High Sheriff
of Lancashire, lies buried under the south wall of the chancel of the
parish church of Thornton-in-Lonsdale ; this spot having been selected,
as recorded on the tombstone, at his own request. A sister of his
married one of the Wallers, of Masongill.

Over Hall is now the property of Col. Geo. Hy. Blucher Marton,
D.L., J.P., of Capernwray Hall. The earlier house is said to have been
very much larger than the present building, and occasionally old
foundations are met with. It was approached by a handsome carriage-
drive half-a-mile long, and there is also a legend to the effect that a
subterranean passage used to exist between the old Masongill Hall and
Over Hall, but what was its direction, or whether it ever really existed
we have not had means to discover.

We may now descend by a delightful, open road, passing Leek Hill,
a beautiful mansion, and Leek Villa, a good house, on the right, and
then Leek Hall, the old seat of the Welch family, enclosed with some,
forty acres of rich park and wood. Going straight along by the Lodge
Farm an umbrageous lane leads by the Leek Schools, and the handsome
new Cowan Bridge Church, which is most beautifully and reposefully
situated. The church was built about twelve years ago. The boys 1
school was enlarged at the cost of Thomas Welch, Esq., in 1857, and
the girls' school was erected in 1847 by the surviving sisters of
R. H. Welch, Esq., "in memory of him and in aid of his designs for
the improvement of education." He munificently endowed the schools
with a sum of £1000.

A turn to the left, under the viaduct of the Ingleton and Kirkby
Lonsdale line, and we are at the pleasant and famous little village of

271

Cowan Bridge. A biggish mountain beck, after many miles of fuming
and swirling, and plunging among the lonely caverned fells to the north,
here obtains some amount of rest as it pursues its ampler and gentler
course by tree-shaded banks to the low-lying Lune, two miles to the
west. Ordinarily but a small murmuring rivulet, it sometimes swells,
however, to a mighty volume, as may be judged on scanning the width
of its rocky bed, and the great number of large stones rolled down by
resistless, turbid floods. In summer time the smooth, round rocks are
generally white and dry, and the orchard-smiling meadows and sun-lit
paths and hedgerows are pictures of Arcadian loveliness. Here it was
that Charlotte Bronte drew something of the inspiration that brightened
with the affluence of her heart-pourings the wonderful pages of Jane
Eyre. " A pleasant site for a dwelling," says she, " bosomed in hill and
wood, and rising from the verge of a stream." And then again writing
of Lowood (or Cowan Bridge), in the happy, joyous days of fresh-
blossomed Spring, — " days of blue sky, placid sunshine, and soft western
or southern gales," which, she tells us, filled up its duration. Lowood
at this season " shook loose its tresses ; it became all green, all flowery ;
its green elm, ash, and oak skeletons were restored to majestic life ;
unnumbered varieties of moss filled its hollows ; and it made a strange
ground-sunshine out of the wealth of its wild primrose plants."

But the Paradise was not perfect. It never is. There was the fell
serpent in the grass, for the houses were low and apparently ill-drained,
and Lowood became " the cradle of fog and fog-bred pestilence." The
house where the distinguished novelists were at school has long been
used as a Reading-room and Savings Bank. It has old-fashioned
bay-windows, and stands on the west side of the north end of the bridge.
A building on the opposite side of the road was used in the Brontes time
as a dormitory. Formerly the school-house was used as a bobbin-mill,
and during the construction of the contiguous railway in 1860-1, it was
temporarily converted into a " public," rejoicing in the sober-suggestive
title of the Cow inn. But in 1863 it was again transformed into a
private abode. There were then three " publics " in the village, besides
the present Red Lion inn, as Cowan Bridge lay on a busy highway,
which the railway, whirling most of the traffic through, has now left
behind to bask in semi-somnolent quiescence. But at certain times, as
on hunt-days, it was a scene of bustling animation, for the late Mr.
Thos. Tunstall, of Kirk by Lonsdale, who died in 1887, kept a good
pack of harriers here.

We must now plunge the reader (in imagination) once again into
temporary darkness, for there are some grand caverns and gulfs on the
adjacent fells, which can be conveniently got at from Cowan Bridge. It
is a rather wild tramp though, and the tourist, thus enterprising, would

272

do well from the last of them to follow the fell road to Dent, 5 miles,
or 9 miles from Cowan Bridge.

Three miles up the Leek Beck from Cowan Bridge the turbulent
stream has excavated an immense, hard, rocky ravine between the Leek
and Casterton Fells, called Ease Gill, which here forms the Lancashire
and Westmoreland boundary. Another place of like appellation we have
elsewhere noticed under the south side of Ingleborough, and both gills
have been fashioned, and received their names, from the same agency,
namely, the slowly-wearing back action of a waterfall, or eas, as these
pristine aqueous objects were called in the forgotten tongue of the old
Celtic inhabitants. The broken, rent, and bushy crags overhang the
sounding waters at a height of 60 to 70 feet, and thus form a huge
high- walled, open cavity known immemorially as Ease Gill Kirk. The
name Kirk is suggestive of an ancient temple or enclosed place of
worship, extending back, perhaps, to Celtic times. On the right of the
fall there is a lofty opening called the Choir, which is entered through a
fine, natural arch, about seven by ten feet, and on the opposite side
within is a large and peculiarly-encrusted mass of depending stalactite,
called (we know not how long) somewhat fancifully the " Priest of Ease
Gill." But the grotesque suspended figure resembles more some unhappy
wight shuffling off this mortal coil for heinous wrong-doing. And who
knows but what later comers applied the term in wrathful sarcasm,
meaning that the said old Priest of Ease Gill deserved no better fate ?

A short distance below this point are the so-called Witches' Caves,
from a tradition that mysterious and uncanny sounds, as of numerous
sybils bent together in solemn conclave, used frequently to be heard
proceeding from within. But it is not known that the old cronies were
ever actually seen. The holes can be penetrated with safety by stooping,
a distance of about 70 yards, when progress is arrested by a" dark, deep
hole — the witches' cauldron. There are also several minor cavities
ordinarily filled with water.

Ascending the mountain eastwards, about half-a-mile, the solitary
Leek Fell House is reached, and a short distance to the south-west of
the building there are some rather remarkable " pots " and caves. The
first lot observed consists of four irregular holes, in two pairs, bridged
with rock, and denominated the Eye Holes. The deepest is about 50
feet. In the depression a little to the east of these is the Rumbling or
Jumble Hole. It is a gruesome abyss, ascertained to be at least 150
feet down. The top and walls of the huge shaft are, however, beautifully
fringed with a variety of ferns and shrubs. Just to the south of this, in
the same pasture, are two unimportant caverns or fissures in the
limestone, respectively designated the Phial and Cleaver Holes or Caves.
The passage to the former, which is a treacherous " neck " on the

278

surface, is now blocked, but the latter may be warily penetrated a Bhort
distance, when the floor is found to be rent in twain by a rift ten or
eleven yards down, like a trap, as if sharp cleft by monster axe or cleaver
of some Titanic cave-dweller resentful of intrusion into his grim retreat.
More to the west is Hell Hole, rudely bridged at its eastern margin, and
descending vertically to a depth of at least 200 feet. But the true
bottom has never been reached. It is a frightful pit-fall, yet the summit
and surroundings are sweetly flowered and festooned with trailing ivy,
ferns, and frail willow-branches, which, like its more awful name-
sake, does often allure by such showy pleasures to regions of eternal
gloom !

A little way above, but in the next field to the west, is a spacious
circular opening, 150 yards round, and enclosed with a fence. This is
Gavel Pot, and its greatest depth is found to be 120 feet. Turning
now towards the allotment road leading by the Fell House, and crossing
it about a half-mile to the south, we enter a hollow near the south wall of
a pasture called " Fenwick's Allotment." Here is the entrance to a
pretty extensive fissure called Lost Johns' Cave, because, we are told,
many years ago two men, both named John, were from the folly (so often
alluded to in these pages) of carrying one box of matches which they
accidentally dropped into a pool of water, left with extinguished candles
for the greater part of a day to pick their difficult way out ! About 100
yards from the mouth there is a waterfall, which in ordinary weather it
is possible to descend, and pursue the main gallery several hundred yards
further. The passage, though narrow, maintains a good height, and in
some places reaches, perhaps, forty feet, but the intrepid cave-hunter
should take the precaution to " paper-chase " his route, or at all events
leave some indication of the passage followed, as several lateral alleys
strike the depths of the mountain on either hand. The cave has a few
noteworthy stalactites.

Following westward, the lower of two streams up frdm below the
Witches' Cave, in Ease Gill, the cave-hunter approaches in a short mile
Bull Pot House at the foot of the road under Barbon Fell, and that
which runs forward northwards to Dent. A tremendous chasm, 80
yards in circumference, lies a little to the south of the house. It is
generally filled with dead, putrifying remains, — not of bulls, although
these may at some time have been the engulfed victims, but of sheep
and smaller animals. The rocky, western face attains an elevation of
near 100 feet, while the opposite extremity is about 60 feet. A cascade
of this height is precipitated into the horrible-looking abyss with an
almost vertical leap. A smaller hole, called Cow Pot, lies some little
way off in a field to the east. It also is the recipient of a small cascade,
and may be observed to a depth of 50 to 60 feet.

271

From Cowan Bridge to Kirkby Lonsdale town it is a pleasant ran of
2J miles, but tbe somewhat distantly -situ sited railway station is passed
in about a mile. At the turn, for half-a-milo before tbe station is
reached, our way is along what was the old Roman road, mentioned in
our account of Burrow, which went straight as an arrow's night from
Casterton southwards, by the white house at High Gate, and long
afterwards continued to be need as a pack-horse road ; indeed, it was a
thoroughfare to the Half-way House and Wennington up to quite recent
years. It is now grassed over.

The gnide-post at Kirkby Lonsdale station tells us that we are 30
miles from Appleby, 26 mites from Kirkby Stephen, 11 miles from
Sedbergh, and 15$ miles from Settle. We now descend the road over

Devil's Bridge, Kirkby Lonsdale.

the county border, and cross the Lune by the famous Devil's Bridge up
into tbe town. This curious relic of antiquity has a fine and striking
appearance when viewed from the river's banks below. Its symmetry
and strength are at once apparent, and there is no doubt at the time it
was built it must have been very greatly admired and considered a grand
triumph of engineering skill. And, indeed, admiration at the present
day only ceases when passing vehicles put the bridge to tbe test ; being
as it is of such restricted width as almost to merit the taunt cast upon
the " Auld Brig of Ayr," — " Where twa wheelbarrows trembled when
they met." But it must be remembered that its narrowness for defensive

276

or strategical purposes was all-important in remote times of almost
continuous internecine strife. It must assuredly have been regarded as
a model for bridge-builders, and we have elsewhere in our district noticed
other bridges of like pattern. It is said that when old Blackfriar's
Bridge, in London, was about to be erected, the architect came to Kirkby
Lonsdale to examine this bridge, and approving of it adopted the same
style of building. The Kirkby Lonsdale bridge is formed of three very
lofty semi-circular arches, the material used being a beautiful white,
fine-grained freestone, looking as good and durable to-day as when it left
the mason's hands. The span of the two outer arches is 55 feet each,
and of the central one 28 feet ; the apex of the latter rising i feet higher
than the others, and from the foundations in the river-bed to the central

The Lithe in Flood at Devil's Bridge.

parapet it is 52 feet. Bnt when the river is swollen this elevation to the
level of the water is reduced sometimes as much as 15 to 20 feet.
For instance, during the great and almost unparalleled flood in August,
1891, the river rose fully 16 feet above ordinary water-level, and filled
the whole expanse of the river bed with a rolling deluge that rose above '
the sills of the bridge. It was a striking and remarkable sight, and one
which we shall not soon forget. We were at that time, as elsewhere
related, water-locked in Dentdale, and came round here on the following
day, when the river, however, had somewhat subsided. But on the 17th,
when the water was at its greatest height, Mr. R. L. Simpson, of Kirkby

276

Lonsdale, came down and photographed the scene, which, by his courtesy,
I am fortunately enabled here to reproduce. One engraving depicts the
beautiful and quiescent river in its normal state, and the other as it
appeared on August 17th, 1891, when the water, as above stated, rose
within 25 feet of the parapets, or to the X marked on the engraving.
The scene here at any time is always picturesque.

The soffits, or under surfaces of each arch, are composed of four ribs
or groins composed of single stones, very exactly wrought and admirably
fitted, with single stones also, 22 inches to 24 inches wide, filling the
intervening spaces. The flanks being supported by stone sills, each 13
feet 2 inches long, or extending through the diameter of the bridge, and
with terminal projecting buttresses.

As to who built the bridge, or concerning the date of its erection,
we have no record. The proximity of the Roman highway have led some
topographers to conclude that it is Roman. But this is not probable,
as the Romans built few, if any, arched stone bridges in Britain. The
abutments of Roman bridges were often, as Wright tells us, of a size
and strength to withstand the thrust of the waters without the aid of an
arch, and consequently a horizontal roadway of timber was sometimes
laid on the piers. But both piers and arches here have evidently been
contemporaneous erections, and of such proportions and strength
unneeded at this point in Roman times. Indeed, the first arched bridge
of stone erected in England would seem to have been the peculiar
construction near Croyland Abbey, in the Fen District. The form is
triangular, and the arches rise from the three abutments and meet in the
centre, so that there are three waterways below and three roadways
above. The gradient of the latter is somewhat considerable, but
passengers are enabled to avoid this by the use of a number of steps. It
is generally thought to have been built about a.d. 8.50 — 860, and is
referred to in a charter dated a.d. 943.*

* Another notable stone structure is the almost equally old Bow Bridge
adjoining the site of Fore Abbey, near Askrigg. While lately examining this
bridge, which is of a similar pattern to the Devil's Bridge, I was informed that an
ancient copper coin was accidentally discovered under the old foundations by a
workman engaged in repairing the bridge. The coin is of the time of Henry I.,
and bears a representation of Clifford Castle, York (with the old draw-bridge
there, built in a.d. 1066) on one side, and on the other, York Minster, and the date
a.d. 1100. The bridge seems, therefore, older than the abbey, and may have been
built at the same time as Kirkby Lonsdale bridge. Many stone bridges were built,
as is well known, about this time in England by command of Matilda, Queen
Consort of Henry I., after her narrow escape from drowning at the old ford near
the Bow Bridge, at Stratford.

Probably the oldest stone bridge in our own neighbourhood was that over the
Lune at Lancaster, mentioned by Simpson in his history of that town, which, from
the discovery of brass money of the time of Canute, beneath one of the foundation
stones, is supposed to date from the beginning of the 11th century.

j ■* i ' ' <*• ii Hi ~ iii mr^art ii ii i^P^r ~» ^«"i '— "."S - - ~

277

But the whole manner of the structure, and the surrounding history
of the bridge at Kirkby Lonsdale seem to me to point to its erection
subsequent to the Norman Conquest, and to be most probably co-eval with
the building or re-building of the church, about the time of Henry I.
It appears to be first noticed in a grant of pontage for its repair in the
year 1275. The road-way on the summit is about 60 yards long, and
140 inches, or barely 4 yards wide, with angular recesses corresponding
with the projecting piers for the escape of foot-passengers overtaken by
vehicles. In a niche at the east end is a stone pillar, shaped somewhat
like a font, and inscribed : " Feare God and Honor the King, — 1673."

The legend is, as everyone knows, that the bridge was built by his
Satanic Majesty, according to a compact made between himself and a
poor woman who wished to recover her cow which had strayed at low
water to the opposite side of the river, but could not do so without the
convenient means of a bridge. And so the King of Evil agreed to erect
a bridge on condition that he should have the first living thing that
crossed. He knew very well of her husband's coming home from market,
and hoped to make good booty. But the cunning woman was equal to
the occasion. Seeing the approach of her husband on the opposite hill,
she concealed a scraggy, half -starved dog under her apron, and letting
it sniff a bone, suddenly tossed the latter over the fine, new-made viaduct,
and the dog at once bounding after it, she stepped back, and raising her
fingers in a very vindictive, and certainly most unbecoming manner, —
as the story runs, lustily exclaimed,

" Now, crafty Sir, the bargain was
That you should have what first did pass
Across the bridge, — so now, alas !

The dog's your right."
The Cheater, cheated, struck with shame.
Squinted and grinned, then in a flame

He vanished quite.

If his sable Highness built this wonderful bridge, he must have been
a very skilful architect, and not undeserving of the constructive genius
attributed to him by the poet Milton in the first book of Paradise Lost.

278

CHAPTER XXV.

In the Vale of Lune.

From Ingle ton to Burton —Halsteads— Lund Holme Spa-well— Burton-in-Lonsdale
- -A Saxon fortress— Castle of the Mowbray 8 — The manor-— Past and present
aspects of Burton —Low Field — Cantsfield — Thurland Castle — Tunstall Church,
and Charlotte Bronte' — Pretty village of Burrow -A pre-historic station —
Roman camp — Rauthinel's account— Roman military roads — Ancient bridge
— Remarkable discoveries— Description of camp — Recovery of a Roman
altar, &c— Lunefield — Kirkby Lonsdale. /

|E have now discussed pretty nearly every object of interest
within some ten miles of Ingleton, but there are still a few
things unnoticed in this attractive neighbourhood, which
may fitly engage our attention for yet another chapter.
Proceeding by Broadwood, beneath the wonderful viaduct of the
L. & N. W. Railway, which rises fully 100 feet above the river, we go
by the Craven Lime Company's offices, when the road shortly divides.
Taking the left turn, a picturesque, good old English homestead, with a
trim garden in front, is passed on the right of the way. This is
Halsteads, a former residence of the ancient family of Tatham,
mentioned in our account of Ireby, and afterwards, by the marriage, in
1724, of Ellen Tatham with George F. Foxcroft, gentleman, of Thornton,
a possession of the latter family. Both the Tathams and the Foxcrofts
are old local families, and their names will be found in our Poll Tax
lists (a.d. 1379) under Thornton-in-Lonsdale. At the back of the house
there is an old dated stone (a.d. 1670) bearing a Latin inscription.

At the four-lane ends further on, we take the Lancaster road, (here
16^ miles from that town), and in about 50 yards cross a stream, near to
which, just over the hedge, is the Lund Holme Spa Well, a deep mineral
spring, whose many virtues are scarcely yet sufficiently known. But the
water, which contains some saline matter and sulphuretted hydrogen in
loose combination, has been found very beneficial, both internally and
externally, for various disorders of the skin. The frequent local Danish
name Lurid (a grove) I have explained elsewhere in connection with
Hell Beck Lunds. In a charter of the time of Edward III., this (Spa)
Lund is written Lyndholme, which is the same thing, specifically
indicating the trees which formed the grove, i.e., lindens.

279

In a short 2 miles we come to Burton-in-Lonsdale, crossing the little
trout-beck into the village, and taking now a retrospective glance we
behold the whole majesty of Ingleborough, looming skywards some five
miles behind, and assuredly from no point of the surrounding landscape
does this " monarch of mountains " stand out better or more picturesquely
than from this high and pleasant village.

The name of Burton, I surmise, is derived from the Saxon burh y a
hill fortress, which it unquestionably was, and as we also find mention
of a Moot Hall in an Inquisition of the time of Edward III., *there is
little doubt but what the place was an important Anglo-Saxon station,
and what we should now call an assize-town. In Domesday (quoted in
our account of Ingleton), it is, however, spelled two ways, viz., Bortun
and Borctun ; the latter carrying with it a suggestion of the A.S. beorc,
a birch-tree.

In all probability the castle here of the Mowbrays, of which few
traces now remain, was built on the site of a large Saxon stronghold.
Their great castle seems to have been abandoned, and to have gone
steadily to decay, since about the middle of the 14th century. The
site was then held by John de Mowbray, who died about 43rd Edward
III. Whitaker traces the history of the manor through the Mowbrays
to the Earls of Derby, and by Fine levied 38th Elizabeth (a.d. 151)6) we
find the manor of Burton-in-Lonsdale, including 100 messuages, 20
cottages, 2 watermills, and a windmill with lands there, under forfeiture
of William, Earl of Derby, Sir Edward Stanley, Kt., and Edward
Stanley, Esq., holden " at a peppercorn rent for a term of 80 years."

Burton was a market town in the time of King Edward First ; John
de Mowbray having obtained a charter for a market in the year 1306.
A chapel existed here at an early period, but of its origin or foundation
we have no record. The parish church, as before pointed out, was at
Thornton. The present handsome church at Burton was built and
endowed about twenty years ago by the late Mr. Thomas Thornton, of
Burton, who also built, and was a great benefactor to, the school. There
have been many changes wrought in the general aspects of the place
within living recollection. Formerly there used to be a double row of
unsightly ash-middens in front of the houses along the main street, with
stands for donkeys, which were then much in requisition for the
conveyance of coal from the Burton mines, and sometimes quite a
procession of them might have been seen with their panniers full going
along the village street to be disburdened of the mineral for further
transport in waggons. But all this has altered now. There are two or
three interesting old houses in the village. One of these, opposite the
Sunday School in the main street, was, about the beginning of last
century, the leading hostelry, called the Black Horse, which in coaching

280

days was transferred to the white house near it, and this continued^to he
an inn up to within the last twelve years. The tenant of the house has
usually a fine display of flowers in the window, and who has often won
the prize offered for the best window-show of plants that is competed for
in August annually.

From the school-gate we get another glorious view of the flanks and
brow of Ingleborough, and then soon drop into the main road again,
and pass by the fine avenued entrance to Low Field, the beautiful
property of the Tathams, formerly of Ireby, before mentioned. Then
we pass the old Halfway House on the here concealed Roman road to
Overborough, about which more presently, and shortly arrive at the
pretty village of Cantsfield, half-buried, as the little place looks, in
luxuriant, aromatic orchards and greenery. Cantsfield House, the old
seat of the Procters, who are the chief landowners, stands away on
the left.

And now we shall go through pleasant meads, and across the flowery
little Cant Beck, which flowing by Thurland Castle, close by, joins the
Greta near its junction with the Lune. The land here is warm and
low, being only about 100 feet above the level of the sea, — a significant
drop indeed, from the cloudy altitude of Ingleborough, which rears its
majestic head only some six or seven miles away to the north-east.

Thurland Castle is a grand, old historic fabric, dating from the early
part of the loth century, but at various intervals it has been enlarged
and improved. The south wing was added only about sixty years ago,
and in 1879 it was partially destroyed by fire. The building, which is
enclosed with a deep moat, sustained, during the Civil Wars, a long and
obstinate siege at the hands of the Parliamentary troops, under Col.
Rigby, when Sir John Girlington, then the owner of the castle, stoutly
defended it. In ancient days it was the family seat of the Tunstalls,
of whom history tells of the doughty deeds of Sir Richard Tunstall, the
defender of Harlech Castle for Henry VI., and of Sir Brian Tunstall,
the " stainless knight " of Flodden Field, both distinguished military
heroes, and favourites of their sovereigns.

The castle, formerly a possession of the North family, is now the
property and seat of Col. Edward Brown Lees, J.P.

The adjacent village of Tunstall was, anciently, one of the four
manors of Bentham, and its church, though not specified by name, was
undoubtedly one of the three included within the lordship at the
Domesday Survey. The building, formerly dedicated to St. Michael,
and now to St. John the Baptist, is an interesting old edifice, supposed
to be the third on its site. The church contains some old monuments
and tablets to the Tunstalls, Girlingtons, Fenwicks f and other local
families ; the most striking of which is a mutilated, recumbent effigy,

281

represented in armour, of Sir Thomas Tunstall, who was knighted in
1426, and who was the founder of Thurland Castle.

Readers of Charlotte Bronte's Jane Eyre will be able to recognise
this ancient fane, where she used to attend service, under the thin disguise
of Brocklebridge Church.

Prom Tunstall, by a pleasant field-path entered on the west side of
the church, it is but a short walk to the attractive little village of
Burrow. This is one of the prettiest and best-kept little hamlets the
tourist is likely to meet with in the north country in many a day's
march. The houses along the park-like road are most trim and neat,
and in summer their spruce, well-stocked gardens, and occasionally
trellaced fronts, are aglow with the sweetest roses and various other
scented and showy blooms. The comfortable hotel here, the Femvick
Arms, built some fifty years ago, with its ornamental, balconied portal,
looks more like a gentleman's private residence than a way-side inn.
And then there is the beautiful hall and park of the Fenwicks, who have
been the territorial lords here for very many generations. It was
Thomas Fenwick, Esq., who, delighted with the retired and charming
aspects of the place, in the year 1740 removed an older house and erected
the present spacious mansion called Burrow Hall, on the site of the
Praetorium of the great Roman garrison once stationed here.

Burrow, formerly called Overborough, is a place of very remarkable
antiquity, and there is not the smallest exaggeration in affirming that for
upwards of 2000 years it has been a place of note. For long, long before
Julius Agricola entered upon his valorous and difficult march through
the forests of Lancashire, and the stony wilds of Craven, this now smiling
little border hamlet of Burrow was a great settlement of the hardy,
warlike Brigantes. According to the author of the well-known Notitia,
or Military and Civil Service List of the Roman Empire, compiled about
the close of the 4th century, this was the Braboniack of the Britons,
seceded according to an immemorial tradition by famine, as related by
Camden in 1582, but more likely to have been attacked, and quickly
taken, by the better equipped forces of Agricola in the second year of his
great campaign. And placing our reliance on Tacitus, the celebrated
Roman historian, this would be in the year 79. In the Itinerary of
Anton ine, it is called Bremetonacse, a name which, as explained in our
notice of Ingleton, means in the British language, rocky hill fire-station,
in allusion to the Castra exploratorum, or signal-beacon on the summit
of Ingleborough, maintained there by the Roman garrison until its
evacuation of the Overborough station near the middle of the 5th
century. It is very likely at that period, as I have elsewhere pointed
-out, that a numerous body of native Britons living under Ingleborough
were vassalled under the Roman yoke and maintenance, while many

282

more, unwilling to ally themselves with the invaders, sought the
cheerless and solitary refuge of caves, and remote and woody recesses of
the hills, where, by hunting and fishing, a scant livelihood was obtained,,
while many privations, no doubt, were from time to time endured.

From Rauthmers now very scarce work, a small quarto, entitled
Antiquitates Bremetonacenses, published in 1746, we are able to gather
some interesting particulars about this now almost effaced site. It is
very fortunate that so observant an antiquary was on the spot at the
time the ground was levelled, and the various objects found, (all of which
appear to be now hopelessly lost), carefully collected, and described.
With such knowledge as the author possessed, we obtain a very clear and
succinct account of this important site, although, as might be expected,,
from the isolation and time in which he wrote, he falls into many and
grotesque errors.

Let us first of all remark upon the great military road constructed
by Agricola through the country of the western Brigantes, which,
beginning at Chester, ended at Carlisle. The intermediate stages are
thus indicated in the tenth Iter of Antonine :

Iter X.

A Glanoventa Mediolanum M.P. CL.

Galava M.P. XVIII.

Alone M.P. XII.

Galacum M.P. XIX.

Bremetonacis M.P. XXVII.

Coccio M.P. XX.

Mancunio M.P. XVII.

Thus, from Mancunio (Manchester) to Coccio (Ribchester) the road went
northwards to Bremetonacis (Overborough), but authorities are not
agreed as to the precise direction of this latter part of its course.
Moreover, the distances of the Iter do not correspond with our present
land measurements, for example, the distance between Ribchester and
Overborough is stated in the above table to be 20 mille passus (thousand
paces), whereas it is nearer 30. This, however, does not interfere with
the general sum of the Iter, which is 150 Roman miles. But with
regard to the road it is said from actual discoveries, long since made, to
have crossed from Ribchester an estate called Whittera, and thence in a
straight line to a brook nearly a mile distant. Here, observes our
authority, on account of the precipitous bank on the southern side, an
angle is formed to cross the brook, which, when crossed, another angle
is formed to lead back again to the same point, and thence it proceeds in
a straight line, through an estate called Swanns, to Ivah. With the
exception of two or three fields' breadth, this whole length has the agger

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of seven yards width visible. From the village of Ivah towards Lowgill
all traces of the road were lost, till Mr. A. Court, of the latter place, in
draining* a moist meadow upon the line of the road, uncovered a
considerable extent of it. Parts of two horse shoes were found beneath
the pavement, which was sunk to the depth of several inches below the
surface. These fragments of the shoes were remarkable for nothing but
the largeness of the nail-holes, and the narrowness of the curvature. A
stone, also, which appeared to be but a fragment, with some illegible
lines inscribed upon it, was also found below the surface.

The old road from Lowgill towards Tatham Chapel is upon the site
of the Roman way as far as it continues in a straight line, but at the
first angle it leaves the Roman way to the left hand. Then it runs on
the north side of Tatham Chapel, and its remains are discovered upon
the estates of Knott Hill and Lower Stockbridge. It then appears to
have crossed the Greta at or near a place where the old inhabitants of
the adjoining grounds say were the remains of a bridge, as courses of
hewn stone on both banks were once visible there. Crossing the Burton
road west of the Half-way House and Scaleber, it goes on by
Collingholme where, before the field was enclosed, its agger was not
merely visible, but prominent and nearly perfect, and continued so for a
whole mile. Thence from the Cant Beck it ran by Overtown, across
the Leek Beck on to a portion of the highway between Kirkby Lonsdale
and Ingleton, called the Long-level, whence its direction coincided with
the present Wanderers' Lane, close on the right of the railway from
Eirkby Lonsdale station to Casterton, Middleton, and Low Borrow
Bridge to the north.

On a part of this magnificent ancient highway between Ribchester
and Overborough, there was found in the early part of last century, a
copper urn containing above 600 silver denarii, chiefly of the emperors
Alexander Severus and Gordianus Pius (a.d. 222 — 244). Rauthmel
tells us that he discovered near the same military road several Roman
tumuli, circular in form and 10 yards in diameter, composed of small
stones one yard deep, in one of which he found three urns containing
ashes, and in the smallest, besides ashes some very little bones. From
one of them he also abstracted two copper styli, or Roman writing-pens,
each six inches in length. To these discoveries may be added the later
and very interesting one of the splendid Roman mile-stone, unearthed
in 1836, near the same Roman road at Middleton, about 5 miles north
of Kirkby Lonsdale station, and which is now raised upon an eminence
by the way close to where it was found.

A second great military road, it should also be remembered, ran
almost parallel with the above, but fully ten miles to the west of it, from

* Now probably 70 years ago.

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Kinderton, in Cheshire, by Northwich, Stretford, Old Trafford, crossing
the highway between Manchester and Warrington, and by Preston and
Garstang to Lancaster, whence there was another highway connecting it
with the station at Overborongh, 12 miles distant. Whitaker infers
that it corresponded with the present road from Lancaster to Kirkby
Lonsdale bridge, some two miles to the north of the Roman station at
Overborough. But this is not quite correct. There was no Roman road
at the Devil's Bridge. Indeed, old inhabitants affirm that there were
formerly abundant indications of what seemed to have been a sort of
timber bridge over the Lune immediately opposite the site of the
" old city," and that large solid blocks of hewn oak used to be taken out
of the river bed at this point. It looks, therefore, as if there had been
communication with the other side of the river much nearer the
Roman garrison than the Devil's Bridge ; the latter being of Norman
origin.

The site of the station is unquestionably an admirable one, and
displays in an eminent degree the military and strategical
sagacity, not so much of the artful, experienced Romans, who were
simply the impropriators, as of their rude, brave predecessors, the native
Britons, who, in spite of all shortcomings, had doubtless a more exact
knowledge and appreciation of the surface characteristics of the landscape
than even we have at the present day. We are accustomed to speak of
them as untutored savages, but the old Britons were wise enough in a
good many things, and, indeed, in more ways than we yet know of.
Agricola, however, who is said to have seized the fortress and
superintended in person its construction, no doubt recognised the
superior advantage of such a situation. It occupies a triangular neck of
land, sufficiently elevated, without much exposure, being shaped by the
confluence of the Leek with the Lune, which streams have formed the
natural defences of the station. Rauthmel furnishes an extended
description of its area and several parts, along with a sectional plan of
the fortress, which, however, it is plain, are largely fictitious.

In Camden's time there is reason to believe, from the little he says,
that the papilos, or stone barrack-houses, were standing, although in ruins,
yet at the time our author made his survey, 156 years afterwards,
scarcely a vestige remained, yet he is bold enough to furnish us with an
exact sketch of their position and number. But no doubt can exist that
the configuration of the enclosed portion of the station was that of a
rectilinear, or in the usual form of Roman castramentation, defended by
a rampart of earth and stone, and surrounded with a fosse and bank or
agger. While on or near the site of the present mansion was the
pnntorium, or general's tent, as evidenced by the remains of tessellated
pavements found on this part.

285

The importance of the station at Overborough, and the manner
of its garrison, are in some measure indicated by the author of
the Notitia, who says that there was a praefect over a numerus of soldiers,
called defmsores, — Preefectus numeri defensorum Braboniaco, which
defensores seem to have been veterans, or hardy old soldiers of long and
tried experience, who were in time of distress requisitioned to defend the
walls of a town or station, and who also acted as auxiliaries for the relief
of the ordinary troops while in the pursuit of an enemy, which, often
gaining confidence by the diminished energy of these less hardy
trainbands, was at once fallen upon by these powerful rear-guardsmen
or defensaresy and routed or cut to pieces.

The following are among the antiquities recovered from this station.

A complete stone altar, the discovery of which is somewhat significant. It was
erroneously attributed by Rauthmel as a votive shrine of the pagan god Mogon,
but the learned Dr. Pegge has rightly interpreted it from our author'B version
of the inscription, as an altar consecrated to the Sabine deity Sango, or Sancus,
which, being the same as Hercules, was a proper deity for a soldier to honour.
The inscription is this, —

DEO. SAN which interpreted at length is, Deo. Sango. Numeriu*. Trebius.
GO. N. TR Atta Posuit. On one side of the altar is the figure of a bird,- -not
EBIVS AT an owl, as Rauthmel conjectured, but the Sangualw Avis, or
TA. POSV., osprey, which bird was under the protection of this renowned
deity. The stone also bore two carvings in relief of an axe and sacrificial knife.

The next notable relic discovered was an aurea bulla, or hollow ball of pure gold,
found by Miss Fenwick, a daughter of the first proprietor of Burrow Hall. It is
thought to be the only object of this description yet discovered in Britain, although
they have been not uncommonly met with among remains of Roman antiquity
abroad. They were heart-shaped and worn round the neck by young Roman
patricians as incitements to valour, ere deeming themselves worthy of the fair
hand of love. This precious ornament was doubtless dropped by some enamoured
youthful noble while in attendance on his royal master in the prcetorium, where it
had lain concealed a period of probably not less than 16 centuries. This station,
it may here be observed, is known to have been visited by several successive
emperors, from the time of Agricola's occupation, namely, Septimus Severus, Geta,
and Antoninus Caracalla, the latter of whom passed through Craven, and remained
some little time at Bremetonacre, between the period of his cruel usurpation of
power in A.D. 212, and his assassination in A.D. 217.

Other objects found about here were & patera, or shallow platter of baked clay ;
a guttus, or wine-jug, used on occasions of sacrifice ; a glein neidoreth, " snake-
stone," or Druid's amulet* (found on the Roman road south of Overborough) ;
a very fine stone hammer (British) dug up near Cantefield ; a fragment of an
uninscribed altar, bearing only a centurial mark ; and a singularly interesting
copper medal of Flavius Vespasian, inscribed on the obverse Imp. Caes. Vespas —
PMT. RP. Cos. VI II. (».<?. Eighth Consul, A.D. 79), which, found in the ramparts of
the fortress, apparently agrees with the narrative of Tacitus regarding the conquest
of the Western Brigantes (i.e. Craven, Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland)
in that year, and the foundation of the several stations along his line of march.

* Some curious references to theae " charmed " stones, which were regarded with a great deal
of superstition in old times, are given by Wm. Bray in his Tour in Derbyshire, 2nd ed. (1788),
pp. 216—18.

286

Nothing has been discovered on the site since Rauthmel's day
excepting a single uncovered earthern vessel, resembling a Roman
funeral urn, but unfortunately it got broken by the spade while digging
in the lawn in front of Burrow Hall. This was in the early part of the
present century.

But we must now leave this classic neighbourhood, and, going by
the Deer Park, cross the picturesque Leek bridge, with its old dated
stones (a.d. 1735) and shortly arrive at a point where a boundary stone
indicates that we are stepping from Lancashire into Westmoreland, and
whence a field-path shortens the distance to the Devil's Bridge, described
in the last chapter. The river-dale aspects here along are very beautiful,
■while the high, red roofs of Lunefield, the pleasant seat of Alfred Harris,
Esq., J. P., stand out conspicuously in the distance. The house, which was
re-erected about twenty years ago from designs by Mr. Alfd. Waterhouse,
A.R.A., occupies a broad, elevated terrace, overlooking the Lnne to the
south, and surrounded by luxuriant gardens, green, velvety lawns, and
ample conservatories, which greatly enhance the beauty of the place.
The property, it may be remarked, was purchased by Mr. Harris, the
present owner, in 1868, from the Rev. Canon Carus, of Winchester,
whose family had been long aeated here.

We now end our pleasant excursion at the ancient town of Kirkby
Lonsdale, the " Lowton " of Jane Eyre, mentioned a few pages back.

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CHAPTER XXVI.

Kirkby Lonsdale and Neighbourhood.

Earthworks and tumulus — Kirkby Lonsdale a Danish town— Past and present
aspects — Old inns — Origin of market— The parish church — Underley Hall —
The celebrated view from the churchyard — Lovely scenery — Casterton Woods
— Old corn-mill — Casterton village and church— Roman highway.

F course, every visitor who comes to Kirkby Lonsdale sees the

fine old church, — one of the most interesting monuments of

antiquity in this part of the country, — and the celebrated

view from the churchyard, which has been so much admired

by Mr. Ruskin, and which comprises, unquestionably, the beau ideal of

a thoroughly English landscape.

Saving the beauty of the neighbourhood, there is not much else of
interest at Kirkby Lonsdale. But near Cathridding, about 3 miles to
the north-west of the town, there is a large circular earthwork, which is
probably Danish, as the eminence on which it is constructed is called
Sweyn Shaw, although this name may be of later origin. When the
moor was enclosed, a good stone quern, or hand-corn mill, was dug up
near it, which may be a relic of the previous Brigantian occupation, as
the British word Cath (a fortification) apparently denotes. The Danes,
however, were undoubtedly settled in the locality, as the name Kirkby
plainly indicates a Danish town where a Saxon church stood. On the
north side of the vicarage there is a large tumulus called Cockpit Hill,
perhaps a relic of that eventful era.

But the good old town of Kirkby Lonsdale has witnessed many
changes since the day when the hardy Saxons and piratical Danes first
set foot on the place. In recent times it has been largely modernised,
and along a portion, at any rate, of its main thoroughfare, there is a neat
and characteristic look of genteel newness. But in this avenue, not so
very long ago, might have been seen many a quaint and curious bit of
mediaeval architecture, to wit the pent-roofs and arcaded porticos, such
as still linger in some old English towns. But only a single example
remains now. Our ambitious north-country towns and villages, many
of which by their pleasing glimpses of old-time stone and wood work,
carried us back even beyond the days of the Roses, have gradually lost

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almost every mark of historic individuality, and are fast becoming as
like each other as a row of new pins. Hardly anything, indeed, has
survived this ruthless onslaught of unsparing "progress" but the old
churches, and these, too, have suffered more or less severely.

That the town has been a place of bustling importance in former
days is apparent as one glances up at the long cavalcade of painted sign-
boards, descriptive of a variety of creatures and objects, which follow
each other in showy procession along the main street. Some of these
inns are doubtless very old, and date long anterior to the palmy coaching
days. For inasmuch as Kirkby Lonsdale has been a market town from
the far-distant year 1227 a.d., and every Thursday for now approaching
seven centuries, its market has been held, and its traders doubtless have
found a temporary lodgment at one or other of its public houses of
entertainment. But it must not be supposed that any of these early
hostelries exist here yet, although there are one or two, which both inside
and out, evidence some antiquity, but we are not going to believe quite,
as an old native once gravely informed us, that they were " built by
Julius Caesar." The old market-cross, I should remark, has been
removed to an obscure corner near the church, and the markets are now
held in the square, opposite the Royal hotel, which was formed soon
after the terrible fire there in the winter of 1820 ; the tragic consequences
whereof, so often told, are recorded in the churchyard.

The parish church of St. Mary is a venerable pile, and from the
Domesday name of the town, ChercJwbi, there is plain proof of its pre-
Norman parentage. The oldest portions of the present structure date
from about a.d. 1120, and these in the interior include the west arches
of the nave. The southern and western doorways are also of this date,
and have receding cylindrical columns with moulded capitals, supporting
circular arches of various and rich designs. But these early carvings,
which are in bold relief, have become much decayed from exposure to
the weather. The capitals and columns of the nave of this period are
beautifully wrought, and some of the work looks as perfect as when first
chiselled. These pillars are very similar in design to those in the
Cathedral at Durham. The chancel and remaining parts of the church
are of various later dates. The tower was rebuilt, as indicated upon a
stone beneath the west window, in 1705. The interior, which contains
numerous monuments and exquisite examples of stain-glass, is very
spacious and lofty. Its greatest length is 122 feet, and width 100 feet.
In 1807 the ancient leaded roof of the church was removed, and in
1866 the old south porch was taken down and rebuilt. This would
seem to have been private property, as upon a wooden tablet (inscribed
C. W., 1668) now kept in the vestry, the aspiring owner, or some zealous
admirer (or perhaps it was a combined effort) we hope we shall be

pardoned for remarking, has sawed from his immortal mind the following

explanatory piece of wooden poetry :

" This Porch by ye Banes first builded was.
Of Heigholme Hall they wears ;
And after sollld to Christopher Wood,
By William Haines thereof last heyre ;
And is repayred as you see,
And satt in order good
By the true owner nowe thereof,
The foresaids Christopher Wood."

With these beneficent outpourings to stimulate his curiosity, we may
very well leave the visitor to make hia own discoveries in the chnrch,
being, of course, not unmindful, during this engaging pursuit, of the
reverence he owes while in the house of God.

Underlet Hall.

I should add that in 1868-9, by the munificence of Lord Eenlis, now
the Earl of Bective, the church was very handsomely restored. And in
the street, on the west of the chnrch, a beautiful drinking-fountain
commemorates the event.

Underley Hall, the stately seat of the Earl of Bective, lies some little
distance to the north of the town. The mansion, which was formerly
the property of the Nowells, was rebuilt in 1828, and stands upon a rich,

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verdant plateau on the west bank of the broad and gently-flowing Lime.
Enclosing it are large and luxuriant gardens, extensive conservatories,
and beautifully shaven lawns, which, terminating in a level terrace,
reach down to the open water side.

From the north-east corner of the churchyard a gate opens on to an
elevated natural terrace, where a seat has been placed high above the
winding river. The scene we may behold from this point is one of
indescribable beauty. Below us, in the bosom of the park-like and
splendidly-wooded vale, the graceful, gentle Lune seems really in love
with her affluent surroundings, for how placidly on she moves, and with
many a lazy and reluctant curve, turns back to seize the image of the
enamoured landscape ! By hall and cot, and many a scattered farm, the
meandering river flows slowly on until lost amid projecting hills. In
the deeps of the umbrageous valley lies the noble house of Underley,
above mentioned, while on the open ground opposite is the Orange, a
beautifully-seated mansion, built in 1849, and the large and handsome
Gasterton Hall hard by. Behind, as far as the eye can reach, there is a
magnificent group of shapely, swelling hills, beginning with the grey
and purple cloaks of the Leek, Casterton, and Barbon Fells, and
extending beyond the heights of Middleton to the misty tops of the
Howgills. Eastwards, lordly Ingleborough raises his imperial crest to
the sky, and forms a majestic outline to this limit of the prospect. But
to see this superb panorama at its best one should be here in the
Autumn, and in the early morning or evening too, when the reflected
light of the sun burnishes the crystal curves of the river, and casting
shadows upon the gold-red crags and almost tropical aspects of the
various foliage, glorifies the whole with a miraculous charm, and
produces an effect which neither the pen nor the brush can ever hope
to portray.

All round Kirkby Lonsdale the country is very charming. From
the town there is a most beautiful walk through the Gasterton Woods,
permission to explore which should be obtained from Lord Bective's
steward. From the Devil's Bridge you may follow the road half-a-mile,
and at a cottage on the left, turn down a narrow lane to the farm-house.
The scenery and views in the fertile vale are here very attractive. The
mansion of Lunefield, and the sturdy tower of the old church, peering
above fine trees, add much to the picturesque interest of the scene.
By a shady avenue, composed principally of oak, ash, and some fine
hollies, we may now ascend from the farm into the Casterton Woods,
and presently obtain a delightful view of Underley Hall, with the rich
sward of its ample lawns raised above the silver-shining Lune, and, in
the " jubilee " of summer, too, its magnificent rose-avenue aflame with
the choicest bloom. Now, a turn to the right brings us past Gasterton

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Hall, and skirting a new plantation, we enter the woods to the Hall
gardens. From the gardener's cottage here a steep path descends, in a
minute or two, to a picturesque wooden bridge, spanning the leafy chasm
which has been formed in the red rock by the abrasion of the quick-
descending stream. On crossing the rustic bridge, the path winds on
some distance high above the Lune, whose crystal waters lave the
grand cliffs of "Old Red Conglomerate," nearly one hundred feet
below.

Close to the old bridge, just mentioned, there was once, we are told,
an old corn-mill, and the secluded ravine in which it stood was called
Mill Gill. The building was afterwards converted into a private
bath-house, but it is now abandoned, and in ruins.

The village of Casterton lies almost hidden from view in a lovely
dell formed by the murmuring rivulet which courses through its midst.
The village may be said to be a Roman offspring born of the great
military road, previously described, from Overborough to Appleby and
the north. But the present attractiveness of the locality is in no small
measure owing to the example, good taste, and munificence of the Wilson
family, of Casterton Hall, who built the church, and were in many other
ways benefactors to the place. It was the Rev. W. Cams Wilson, the
worthy vicar of Tunstall, who is celebrated as the Rev. Mr. Brocklehurst
in Charlotte Bronte's novel of Jane Eyre. He was a patron of the
Clergy Daughters' School, which we have already touched upon in our
account of Cowan Bridge, and whence the school was removed to
Casterton in the Brontes' time. This establishment, which is very
influentially supported, was founded in 1828, and its benefits are
restricted to the daughters of those clergy having the smallest incomes.
There is also a Preparatory Clergy School for orphan children principally,
close by. A similarly useful institution here is the Servants' School,
originally founded at Tunstall, but removed to Casterton in 1837. It
provided for the training of girls for service, but since 1883, when the
handsome Hospital was built, it has been re-organised, and is now
conducted as a private ladies' school, under the name of Low Wood
School, which name figures prominently upon a tablet on the south gable,
with the date 1837, and an appropriate scripture text taken from the
third chapter of Jeremiah.

The church here stands at a picturesque corner of road that runs
through the village. It is a beautiful and airy little edifice in the Early
English style, and contains some of the most exquisite mural sculptures
in marble and Caen stone (by a London firm) which we have ever seen.
The church was built in 1888, and is now (1891) being thoroughly
renovated. The old font from Low Bentham church is, we understand,
to be brought here when the work is completed.

292

From Casterton the return to Kirkby Lonsdale (2£ miles) may be
made by Wanderers' Lane, — the old Roman highway before described,
—and in about a mile, at Gowrey farm, cross the county boundary,
where part of the farm premises named are in Lancashire and part in
Westmoreland. Thence by the station and Devil's Bridge. This is a
nice walk or drive in coming from Sedbergh to Kirkby Lonsdale (I2J
miles), but we prefer taking it the reverse way, for the sake of the fine
approach to Sedbergh, lying in the lap of the HowgillB. Bnt this
interesting section comes more within the province of our excursions
from Sedbergh, where we shall describe it.

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PART n -EASTERN DIVISION.

CHAPTER XXVII.

Around Skipton.

Up Dales — Thorpe-sub-Montem — Threapland— Old houses— Threapland Gill and
Cave — Elbolton — Curious knoll-reefs — Knave Knoll Hole — Discovery of
human skeletons^- Beautiful view— Walk to Barden— Simon Seat— Who was
Simon ? — Other Simon Hills and their pre-historic remains — The School of
Simon Druid — Ascent of Simon Seat — Marked stones— Beltane feasts — A
Sunset on Midsummer Day.

HIS division of our work will be appropriated to an account of
our explorations, and researches into the parish-histories, of
the country lying between Skipton and Yore Head, and
westward to the Howgill Fells. Again we hope to rescue
many an old-time story, and fragment of unrecorded history. And as,
moreover, there is scarcely a level mile anywhere within this classic area,
— classic by virtue of its own inherent interest, as by the loftiest gifts of
pen and palette, — it goes without saying that its scenery also will be
found every bit as diverse and entertaining as that described in the
preceding Part. .

Of Skipton, — the chief town in Craven, — and the immediate district,
we have already written at length in I'hrough Airedale from Goole to
Malham, so that it will be unnecessary to dwell upon these parts here.

Let us then scamper away from the trailing steam-breath of the iron
horse, and either drive or walk "up dale " to the quiet little villages
of Bylstone and Cracoe. Going through these we discover a nice
ramble of some three or four miles, by way of Threapland Gill and the
famous Elbolton bone cave, described in Airedale, to the secluded little
hamlet of Thorpe-sub-Montem. This little upland nest is so hidden and
out of the way, that it is said when the troops of Cromwell were in the
neighbourhood, many of the inhabitants from the surrounding villages
took refuge within it, and owing to its safe seclusion were never

294

discovered. It has now but very few houses, but was formerly a rather
large village, in which there were about a score families all engaged in
plying the useful trade of cobbling ; Thorpe-made boots and shoes being
famous for quality and wear among the dalesfolk for miles round.

At Threapland there is one of the oldest dated houses we have met
with in Graven. The carving looks very much like 1554, but the third
figure may be an 8. There is also another ancient building, which has
the appearance of having been once used as a chapel. It is ornamented
outside with fen emblem of the Trinity, and bears the initials and date
T. H., 1674. The hamlet was anciently called Thorpole, a fact that
yields a very singular instance of the transition of the A. S. thorp
(a village) into threap. In Chalmer's Caledonia (Vol. 1. p. 487), the
same form is noted of a place in Scotland. The peaty flat occupying
the valley to the north, and below the Catch All inn, was formerly
filled with an extensive natural sheet of water, now drained off. The site
is still known as the Tarn.

After a peep into Threapland Gill and the little water-murmuring
cave, with its prettily-shrubbed front, where the fresh green of the wild
gooseberry leans out conspicuously, the tourist may ascend the north
bank and proceed along the tops in the direction of Elbolton, which is
the farthest of the curious round hills he has now before him. The
walls and weathered rock about Elbolton will afford a rich field of
investigation to the geologist, abounding as they do in a variety of fossil
remains, including especially fine specimens of Productus gigantea,
which are sometimes found almost as big as a human skull. Trilobites,
fish teeth, and examples of Sphenopteris, — a rare fern, are also
occasionally met with ; while in the shale debris of these so-called
knoll-reefs, bits of amethystine fluor, or " Blue John," as it is termed in
Derbyshire, may be picked up, a peculiarly-formed mineral which is
always an indication of the presence of lead. Botanically, the ground is
similarly rich ; several of the saxifrages occurring, along with abundance
of the pretty, mealy, pink-primrose, and various other plants.

These detached little hills, or knoll-reefs, are a very noticeable feature
in the landscape, and appear as smooth and round as so many slipped,
glaciated boulder-stones. They are said to have been built up in a
somewhat similar manner to the coral islands in our southern seas,
although they are not wholly or true coral reefs, as we now understand
the term. They lie along an outcrop of black limestones, yet in these
knolls we are told there are irregular masses of red gritstone, — in
Elbolton occurring at fully 200 feet from the summit of the hill ; while
a bed of light-coloured clay from 1 to 3 inches in thickness, underlies
the limestone at a depth of 40 to 50 feet, regular in its course from west
to east, and with a north-east dip. A vein of lead, moreover, traverses

295

the entire series of these mound-like hills. The precise method or origin
of their formation, from these various complications, raises a subject of
absorbing interest, and one very tempting to speculation.

The cave known as Knave Knoll Hole, in this hill, is a narrow,
pit-like cavity, 70 feet deep, descended by ladders, and is chiefly
interesting from the recent discovery within it of a complete human
skeleton, and portions of several others, along with bones of various
animals, — all of neolithic age. The view from the top of the hill is
most beautiful, with the little town of Grassington nestling high up
under the wide moors, and enclosed on the north side with dense,
luxuriant woods that stretch far away above the crystal river. The
moors beyond culminate in the round boss of the Great Wham, and the
undulating edge of Great Whernside. How pleasant it is to be up here
on a still summer's day ! The rich, green meads below us are spangled
with buttercup-gold, and dotted with cattle and sheep, while, perhaps,
the only sounds audible in the hot sunshine are the cocks' crowing on
distant farms, and the lark's voice high overhead.

But probably the most beautiful and extensive view in this part of
Wharfedale is that to be obtained from Simon's Seat, and as this is but
a few miles' delightful walk from Thorpe to Burnsall and Barden, we
will transfer awhile our steps and our thoughts thither. The whole of
this range of hills possesses features of interest which do not seem ever
to have been discussed. There are numbers of mounds and heaps of
stones (some of which have doubtless been dispersed) and curious marks
upon the rocks, which are well worth a little consideration. So far as
Simon's Seat is concerned, we have long supposed that this eminence,
occupying one of the most commanding junctions in Wharfedale, must
have been secured as a look-out post, or possibly a permanent station, of
the ancient races inhabiting this neighbourhood even long before the
Roman conquest. It is, moreover, very remarkable that the name Simon
should be of such frequent occurrence, not only in Yorkshire, but in
other parts of England as well. The inference seems, at first, conclusive
that these are but modern appellations derived from some local personage
of note, possibly a former owner of the land. But considering that
personal names, as Matthew, Mark, Luke, John, &c, when applied to hills,
are of such rare occurrence, we must look for another solution of the name.
Whereas Simon Hills, Simon Fells, and Simon Stones, are frequent
throughout the land, and are apparently as old as the oldest names of
our mountains. Who, then, .was this mysterious yet universal Simon ?
It is certainly remarkable that in almost every instance within my
knowledge, places so designated are, in some way or other, associated
with the remains of ancient earthworks, barrows, tumuli, marked stones,
and the like. It is so at Symons or Symonds Yat, on the Wye, Simon's

296

Bath, on Exmoor,* Simon Howe, above 'the vale of Goathland, Simon
Fell, by Ingleborough, Symondstone near Read, in Lancashire, so written
in early Norman charters ; Simonstone, a hamlet near Hawes, where
flint implements have been found beneath peat ; Simon's Seat among the
Howgill Fells, and Simon's Seat, in Wharfedale, the subject of these
remarks^ As regards the Howgill Simon's Seat, I have not there
discovered any traces of early occupation — it is a lofty, bare, grassy hill,
but standing as it does at no great distance from the Roman highway to
Tebay and Appleby, and whereabouts early tribes were probably
congregated, the site is strongly suggestive of the name being of the
same origin as the rest.

If, then, there be any British Druidical or Romish connection with
these places, how is this ancient name explained ? Prof. Rhys, in his
admirable little work on Celtic Britain, points out that among the oldest
instances in Welsh poetry of the use of the word derivyddon y druids, is
one where it is applied to the Magi or Wise Men, who came with presents
to the infant Jesus ; and its Irish cognate drui is not only used in the
same manner, but is usually rendered into Latin by magus, a magician.
But now and then also, he adds, point is given to this term by making
the druid into Simon Magus, whose appearance on Celtic ground is
otherwise inexplicable. The Goidelic Druids accordingly appear at times
under the name of the School of Simon Druid, and a curious passage
relating thereto may be found in 0. Mulcorry's Glossary, preserved in
Trinity College Library, Dublin.f These Simon Magi were soothsayers,
priests, and medicine men, but their principal character was perhaps that
of magicians, in which guise the Simon Magus of Scripture is depicted
in the 8th chapter of the Acts of the Apostles. The Romans, likewise,
held in superstitious deference the same awe-inspiring Simon Magus,
whom they commemorated at Rome by a statue erected in the Tiber, and
which bore this inscription in Latin, — Simon Deo Sancto. But strangely,
it seems as if this particular memorial had been the means of bringing
about a false dedication of the tutelary god Sangus, mentioned in our
account of verborough, for in the year 1 574 a stone was dug up in an
island of the Tiber, inscribed Semoni Sanco Deo Fidio, &c, from which
it would appear as if the early fathers had misread and misinterpreted
this stone, it being the individual stone and inscription which they had

* We once heard a story about some doughty, legendary hero, called Sigmund,
while passing a night at the lonely little inn here on Exmoor. Tradition, indeed,
assigns the name of the place to this valiant, mythical personage, who is said to
hav.' been a giant-killer, dragon-slayer, and what not. but in all probability both
the person and his prowess are simply an exaggerated survival of tales passed
down from the mystery-dealing Druids, or Simon Magi, mentioned in the text.

t This Manuscript (numbered H 2, 16, Col. 116) is in Celtic Irish.

297

beheld.* At any rate there is no doubt bnt that both Britons and
Romans perpetuated in various ways the memory of this great impostor,
and this I take to be the prima stamina of the names of our Simon hills
and seats. And in so far as our elucidations of the early British and
Roman occupation of Ingleborough are concerned, this is proof -positive
so far as regards the subjacent Simon Fell.

But now that we are talking about Simon Seat, let us climb the
Wharfedale mountain and see where the great Simon sat, and awed the
trembling crowds ! It is, however, hardly likely that he ever sat there
himself, but was probably represented by some Druidical soothsayer on
whom his mystic gifts descended. We shall, however, not quarrel on
that point, preferring as we do, the testimony of the rocks to even a
sight of the ghost of Simon himself, or his deputy, who may haunt the
grey old cliffs there still.

From Barden Bridge we follow the main road on about J mile, to
within a short distance of Wharfe View House, where are two conspicuous
ash-trees, opposite which is a gate, which we must open and ascend by
the side of a plantation, and through several other gates, until the open
moor is reached. By still keeping the main cart-road we come to the
peat-beds, having Earl's Seat away on the right, and the high point
above which is significantly called Cairn or Carn-cliffe, and a mile beyond
it is the famous Rocking Stone. Beyond the peat-beds the three great
groups of rocks on the edge of Simon Seat (as they are collectively
•called) are now seen. It is, however, the highest, or largest group to
which we must make, as this claims to be the Seat proper. The stones,
— huge weathered blocks of light-grey millstone-grit, that have almost
the appearance of granite, lie tumbled about in all sorts of strange
positions, heaped one on the other, and forming rude chambers, and
bridges, and rocking-stones, and bearing upon their surfaces many
curious knob-like excrescences, and round basin-like cavities. The central
atone on the edge of the cliff has one such evenly-formed bowl-shaped
hole, but laid open to the west, in the manner of a seat, while behind it
are two smaller cavities opening eastwards, or in the opposite direction
to the larger one just named, and in which, while the front one was
occupied, two persons could kneel behind with their faces turned towards
the declining sun. And this is precisely as we are taught to believe the
old Britons did, while adoring the great Giver of Life and Light.
There is a large rock on the south side of this containing five similar,
but irregularly-placed cavities, about which, however, we shall make no
pretences at solution, as the uses of such " cups " and " basins," and as
to whether they are artificial or otherwise, are still, and likely to remain
so, moot points. But here and there upon the edges and surfaces of the

* See Dr. Pegge's " Anecdotes of Old Times."

298

rocks are curious, small knobby protuberances, sometimes hollowed in
the centre, which may, or may not, be artificially formed. But these
lumps or stone nipples projecting from the main blocks are very striking,
and we are unable to account for them, unless they have some reference
to the Beltane Feasts still kept up in some parts of the Scottish
Highlands, and in France and Ireland.

The Beltane dinner on May Day, in Perthshire, UBed to consist of
milk, eggs, and a cake full of lumps or nipples on the surface. On the
first of May, says Pennant, in the Highlands of Scotland, the herdsmen
hold their Beltein. They cut a square trench in the ground, leaving the
turf in the middle ; on that they make a fire of wood, .on which they
dress a large caudle of eggs, butter, oatmeal, and milk, and bring besides
the ingredients of the caudle, plenty of beer and whiskey, for each of
the company must contribute something. The rites begin with spilling
some of the caudle on the ground, by way of libation ; on that everyone
takes a cake of oatmeal upon which are raised nine square knobs, each
dedicated to some particular being, the supposed preserver of their flocka
and herds, or to some particular animal, the real destroyer of them.
Each person then turns his face to the fire, breaks off a knob, and
flinging it over his shoulder, says, " This I give to thee, preserve thou
my horses ; This to thee, preserve thou my sheep," and so on. After
that they use the same ceremony to the noxious animals. " This I give
to thee, fox, spare thou my lambs ; This to thee, hooded crow ;
This to thee, eagle," &c. When the ceremony is over they dine on
the caudle, and after the feast is finished, what is left is hid by two
persons, deputed for that purpose, but on the next Sunday they
re-assemble and finish the reliques of the first entertainment.*

Whether these rocky knobs are mere nodular concretions due to-
freaks of weathering, or have been fashioned by hand for some such
purpose as I have described, will be best argued by the geologist and
antiquary on the spot. I may observe that in Sir Bichard Hoare's-
Ancient Wiltshire there is figured a curious British Vase, or Grape-Cup,
on the outer surface of which is depicted four rows of such knobs or
protuberances, and each, we may suppose, were intended by the original
users to represent some deity. They are frequent ornaments on pottery
of later date, too.

It may also be pointed out that the high ground, on which many of
these strange stones are found, is called on the Ordnance map Pock
Stones Moor, which in itself carries a suggestion of these ancient rock-
pimples, although this may be only a deviation of the word Pog, which
in some parts of Yorkshire is still used in the same sense as Bog. The
intervention of the word Stones, however, rather suggests the other meaning.

* See Popular Antiquities (Scotland), 1, p. 190.

299

The view from this high fell is remarkably fine. On Midsummer
Day last year, a day to be joyously remembered in that summerless year
of cloud and rain, I ascended Simon Seat to witness, like the Britons of
old had often done, (but who were accustomed on this day to celebrate
the event with special ceremonies), the setting of the mysterious sun.
The day had been bright and the sky stainless, but towards eight o'clock
a few fleecy clouds gathered on the vast horizon, which added greatly to
the picturesque effect produced by the reflected rays. Far over the Vale
of York, above the line of the high Hambletons, the pure, long streaks
of cirrus glowed with all the vividness and delicacy of a rosy Abendgluth
upon Alpine snows. It was, however, at this hour not possible to
distinguish the oft-observed Minsters of York and Ripon, nor even the
faintest semblance of Roseberry Topping and the Cleveland Hills in the
remote corner of the county. But to the west, where the sun was
descending over dark fell and rugged mountains, the scene wa&
indescribably grand. Away over Barden Moor, as far as the great chain
of hills stretching northwards to Fountains Fell, coomb and glen were
filled with deepening and lengthening shadows, and a thousand miniature
pools and tarns which are obscured by day, caught the slanting light
upon their still surfaces, and growing every moment paler with the
declination of the sun, gave a peculiar weirdness to the dark moors
surrounding them. The great orb itself produced a miraculous effect
upon the scenery immediately before it, gilding the mountain summits
and causing them to stand out with astonishing clearness, while the
overhanging clouds were gorgeous with a diverse and ever-changing
iridescence. Pendle Hill and the Bolland Fells, when the sun had
disappeared, loomed mistily southwards, and by nine o'clock the whole
horizon had become enveloped in the gathering gloom. As I prepared
to descend a solitary curlew rose from the moor close to my feet, and
wheeling upwards uttered his shrill cry as I stood observing him, with
his long curved beak against the sky. By ten o'clock, when I had
reached my abode in the secluded valley, there was still a pale light of
lingering day in the mid unclouded heavens, and on looking out an hour
later the plaintive owls could be heard in their distant bowers, while the
cuckoo's voicfc, too, was even not then at rest !

800

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Gargrave.

"Walk to Gargrave -Flasby Fell— Sharp Haw, a beacon during the Spanish Armada
— Red deer —A wonderful fox-hunt— Robert Story — His life at Gargrave—
Poetry and Politics — Removal to London — Gargrave Church — Description of
the village — The Meets of the Graven Hunt — Some private mansions.

|T is a pleasant walk or drive of four or five miles from
Skipton to Gargrave, either by the main road or the
picturesque old road, with its wealth of wild flowers, through
Stirton and Thorlby, or if on foot along the banks of the
river or canal. The most prominent objects in the landscape are the
huge, dark mass of Pendle Hill in front, and the peculiar tri-partite
peaks of Flasby Fell rising above verdant pastures on our right. The
form of the last-named hill is singularly striking. The elongation of
its gritstone summit into three conical, rocky heaps, which give them
the appearance of weather-resisting necks of worn-out volcanoes, at
once arrests observation from whatever side it is viewed. The highest
point is Sharp Haw (1150 feet), from the top of which you have a
grand prospect, at least three thousand square miles in extent. It is not
generally known that this peak was a royal Beacon in ancient times,
and it has probably from time immemorial been utilised for signal fires.
In an old book of the time of the Spanish Armada, inscribed '• 1580 to
1590, — Copies of letters from the Council to the North in Yorkshire,
and their Orders about Trained Bands of Militia," appears a list of
Yorkshire and Lancashire Beacons, and among them is the following
mention :

One beacon in Stanecliffe called Sharpo, which standeth upon a high mountain
of that name within the parish of Gargrave, two miles from Skipton. This beacon
receiveth light of a beacon in Lancashire, called Pendle Beacon, near to Clitheroe
and giveth light to a beacon standing upon a mountain named Fainesbergh, within
the wapentake of Claro. There is but one beacon in Yewcrosse standing upon a
high mountain called Engleborough, within the parish of Engleton, which standeth
in the way from Skipton to Kendall, or Wharton, in Lancashire, and so on to the
next sea. This beacon receiveth light from a beacon standing upon Wharton
Fell, in Lancashire, and giveth light to a beacon in Longrigge, in Lancashire, near
unto Sir Richard Sherburne's, and so to another beacon in Lancashire, standing
upon a mountain called Pendle, not far from Clitheroe.

301

At this time herds of gaunt red deer and other beasts of chase roamed
over Flasby Fell. It was the home of sport, and sly renard has, in later
days, given the hounds many a slip on this lofty, rugged ground, or led
them a merry caper up the dales. At the time of the erection of the
kennels of the Craven Hunt at Holme Bridge some forty years ago,
foxes were pretty common, but they have since been nearly all destroyed,
and one is seldom seen. The hare is now the huntsman's booty, and the
hounds here are still maintained as a subscription pack. But he has not
the cunning, nor is he always the long-lived runner that is his bushy-tailed
mate. Mr. Oomersall, himself a veteran hunter, tells us that the music
of the hounds has kept in the wake of the red rover through many a
live-long day. On one occasion, he says, they drew Haw Bank, near
Skibden, and put up a fox from among the bushes that cover the
southern slope of that Haw. As soon as he got clear there was a sound
of Tally Ho in the air, the horses pricked their ears, and away they went
with the pack in full cry, but renard bolted up the opposite hill, and
went straight over Embsay Crag and on by Crookrise, then bang over
Rylstone Fell and Cracoe Fell, and crossing the valley in the direction
of Threshfield and Skirethorns, finally landed the hounds at nightfall
somewhere up in Littondale,— a run, perhaps, unprecedented in the annals*
of modern hunting.

It was, I may say, while strolling along the river side between
Gargrave and Skipton, that Robert Story, the Craven poet, composed
many of his most beautiful lyrics, some of which have been set to music,
and at one time were very popular. He had much of the spirit of
Burns in his nature, and delighted in woods and streams, while his heart
was not unamenable to the charms of the fair sex. He was the son of a
Border peasant, and came to Gargrave in 1820, a poor but ambitious
and determined young man. He opened a school in South Street, which
was afterwards removed to more commodious premises specially built for
him, and let to him at a low rent, by Mr. Wilson, of Eshton Hall, the
principal landowner. His school flourished, numbering at one time over
fifty pupils, in addition to which he held the office of parish clerk, and
conductor of the Sunday School, a position that was offered to him by
the then Vicar, the Rev. Anthony Marsden, and which added £10 yearly
to his income. Although pressed by his daily duties he found time for
much and various writing, and every available moment of leisure was-
devoted either to private studies or to composition. He does not,
however, seem to have been altogether satisfied with the share of attention
bestowed upon his rural muse, and so when the time came he lent his
aid to the great political conflict that was stirring the people during the
passing of the Reform Bill in 1832. And with this his trouble began.
He had been really well-off up to now, and had written at Gargrave

302

some of the choicest poetical pieces that are attached to his name. But
in 1834, after the King had made his famous speech to the Bishops,
Story was thoroughly roused, and sitting down, wrote those celebrated
verses, " The Isles are awake !" which appeared in the Standard of Dec.
10th, 1834, and which were thence " transferred to the pages of every
Conservative newspaper in the three kingdoms." They were also
separately printed and circulated in tens of thousands during the General
Election of 1885 ; and in South Lancashire, where they appeared
anonymously, they were attributed to the Earl of Ellesmere (then Lord
Francis Egerton), one of the successful candidates for the representation
of that district. But his Lordship, at a dinner subsequently given in
honour of his return, disclaimed the authorship, remarking, " The song
has been attributed to me, but, though I should have been proud to be
so, I am not the author ; and it would be a species of literary theft, not
to say so at once." This was highly gratifying to the real writer, and
led to the dedication of a collection of his poems to the noble Lord. In
1886 Story visited London and saw Dickens, Hogarth, then Editor of
the Morning Chronicle^ and a host of other celebrities.

Elated by contact with this galaxy of immortals, he returned to
Gargrave to the dull routine of school duties, which soon brought about
discontent and depression, and left him with a mind ill at ease. He had
written other political pieces, and had hoped for some reward from his
influential Conservative friends, but it was not until the summer of 1843
that Mr. Coulthurst, of Gargrave House, intimated to him that the
Hon. John S. Wortley had, through the influence of Sir Robert Peel,
obtained for him a Government clerkship, which augured well for his
future.

Within a week of the receipt of this news he was in London again,
and soon at his new post, which he retained until his death in 1860.

The picturesquely-situated church at Gargrave stands on the site of
an Early Norman edifice, of which some portions of the foundations
were discovered when the nave and chancel of a much larger
Perpendicular church was pulled down in 1851. With the exception of
the tower, nothing remains of the last church, which was built in 1521.
The present building, which was consecrated by Dr. Thomas Longley,
the first Bishop of Ripon, on Oct. 26th, 1852, is one of the largest and
handsomest in Craven. The series of stain-glass windows are almost of
unrivalled beauty, and include some of Hardman's best work, as well as
one of the earliest windows by the celebrated firm of Capronnier, of
Brussels. The benefice, a vicarage, has been in the patronage of the
Marsden* family for upwards of two centuries : the living being now
held by the Rev. Chas. J. Marsden, M.A., who has lately completed the
40th year of his vicariate.

The situation of Gargrave is, in all respects, beautiful and healthy.
It is not buried in trees, although there are plenty of these, and many
fine ones too. But however charming to the eye, they are, alas I often
a source of damp and unwholesomeness. The Italians have a wise old saw
whicb declares, "Where the snn never enters the doctor most," but this
cannot be said of Gargrave. The roads and streets are broad and open,
the houses being mostly modern and well-built, and everywhere exposed
at some part of the day to the full effects of the snn. As poet Story,
mentioned above, who lived here 23 years, has given a most faithful and
picturesque description of the place, I cannot forbear quoting it here.

Gargrave Church.

" In the north of England there is not a sweeter village," he writes,
" than the one I have in my eye, and which I shall take the liberty to
call Glengowan. It is situated in the very centre of a district remarkable
for its romantic beauty, and celebrated on account of the natural
cariosities it contains. A bridge, rather elegant for the place, and
somewhat large for the stream it bestrides, connects the two parts of the
village which would otherwise be separated by the river. On the sooth
side of the river stands the church, the square and tall steeple of which
is seen above the trees that surround the quiet burial ground. Along
the north side the principal part of the village extends ; some of the

804

cottages with clean white- washed fronts, some covered with ivy or other
evergreens, and some again with flowering shrubs. A branch of the
Queen's highway passes through this part of the village, and thus whilst
it detracts something from the seclusion, is the means of making its
charms more widely known."

The pleasant, open Green near the inns presented a very gay and
picturesque scene on the days of the Craven Hunt, when the group of
riders had assembled, and the villagers had congregated in motley throng.
There has been no meet here for about ten years now, as the proximity
of the railway and the increased number of trains have rendered
movement in this direction undesirable. The runs are usually started
some miles out, at certain well-known points where the meets take place.

In this neighbourhood are several beautiful private mansions, the
oldest of which is Eshton Hall, for two-and-a-half centuries the property
and seat of the Wilson family. The house contains a very choice
collection of paintings by the old masters, and a large and valuable
library which is especially rich in historical and scientific works. A
most inviting drive or walk from Gargrave is by the pleasant highroad
through the park to Winterburn or Malham. At Winterburn there is a
fine old mansion called Friars Head, which was anciently a lodge of the
monks of Furness. Gargrave House is another stately residence in this
locality. It is the old home of the Coulthursts, who in the 15th century
were seated in the Forest of Bolland, and in Elizabethan days at Bank
Newton, a picturesque little place about two miles south-west of Gargrave.
The ancient hall there is now a farm-house. Flasby Hall is another
pleasant country seat, occupying a retired situation, about two miles
north of Gargrave. It is an old property of the Preston family.
Pedigrees of the families named will be found in Whitaker's Craven, and
in Foster's Yorkshire County Families.

The surrounding country, which is wholly pastoral, and breathes of
restf ul peace, is very lovely, and contains much of very various interest,
but having already gone over this ground pretty closely in my Airedale
work, little need be said hereupon.

305

CHAPTER XXIX.

Relic Hunting in Malhamdale.

Otterburn — Gomersall family— A local poet — Otterbum Hall — Monastic cell at
Otterburn— Drift hills— Post-glacial lake— Opening of pre-historic barrow —
Description of contents — Remains of ancient ring-dwellings — Traces of Open
Field cultivation — Ancient name of Ryeloaf Hill— Danish Camp — Roman
villa at Gargrave— Effect of anticlinals on landscape— Kirk by Malham —
Stocks and Ducking Stool — Last use of Ducking Stool in Craven — Calton,
and General Lambert — Calton in old times — Hanlith Hall— Hanlith Moor —
Ancient barrow — Unique glacial boulder — Malham.

JHERE are a few things of interest, chiefly antiquities, lying
between Gargrave and Otterburn and Malham, that have not
apparently hitherto been noticed.
I therefore propose another prospecting tramp with Mr. W. Gomersall,
of Otterburn, than whom no one is better acquainted with the locality.
As the surveyor of the district under the Game Act of 1875, and also
as a practised geologist, possessing one of the best self -obtained collections
of local fossils I have seen, he knows, perfectly, every inch of the ground.
His family originally sprang from Gomersal, in the Spen Valley, where
he was born ; his uncle, Lieut.-Gol. Gomersall, being a much-respected
officer under Wellington in the Napoleonic wars. His father, about 1820,
purchased an estate at Otterburn, and the son William, then a boy of
three, was brought up a gentleman farmer, a pursuit he has followed
ever since. Mr. Gomersall has always been a keen sportsman, whether
in the hunt, or with the rod or gun, and though now past his 70th year,
is still active and vivacious, and I hope he will pardon me saying, can
jump a wall or run a nice with the best man of his years in the country.
He knows the Dale country intimately, and besides being an authority
and an occasional writer on agricultural matters, is author of an
interesting and excellently-written brochure entitled Hunting w Craven.
The village, or rather hamlet, of Otterburn is 'very prettily placed on
the banks of the crystal Otter, and is, as near as possible, situated in the

306

centre of the Deanery of Craven. In the following descriptive stanza,
the aspects of the place are very happily hit off :

Straight I tell thy place of hiding,
Heart of Craven !

With thy seven rustic hearths,

With thy seven apple garths. —

Triple byways thither turn,

Link themselves across the burn ;

Ivied bridge their trysting place,

Where the lindens interlace ;

Where the sombre, sable yew

Veils the passer's nearer view,
There I tell thee, there thou hidest,
Heart of Craven 1

The writer of the above lines, the Rev. W. J. Gomersall, a son of
the above Mr. Wm. Gomersall, who has been living now some time in
London, is gifted in no ordinary degree with the feeling and capabilities
of the true poet. He has recently written the following very beautiful
poem, which I am tempted to quote, as besides containing many local
allusions of interest, it is, I think, one of the most sympathetic and
exquisite compositions in verse ever penned by a native of the Craven
Dales. The lines are entitled,

TO A BUTTERCUP,

On receiving one from my daughter Sibyl during her sojourn in Craven after a dangerous

illness— a reminiscence of April 22nd, 1891.

Awake, sweet bloom, that sleep'st between

The leaflets my young love has sent

From where skies weave an April tent
O'er Otter's gently sloped ravine.

Fair visitant, no tongue of earth

Makes vocal what thou tellest me

Of Love's unconscious tyranny :
Love plucked thee from thy place of birth.

Twas only Love's despotic hand

That doomed — forgive what Love hath done,
For thou fresh cords of love hast spun

Betwixt me and my native land —

That beauteous land which thou hast left :—

Oh ! can it be thy comrades there,

Who gild the slope and glad parterre,
Are pained to think that thou art reft ?

That thou must perish far away

From meadows of thy golden reign ?

The joy thou giv'st would turn to pain,
Were grief to fret thy gentle clay 1

307

Shar'st thou the law that plants a cross
In human breast? — We cannot prove,
In things that live and breathe and move

As thou, what echoes of our loss

Throb through creation'* lower life,

In language we can never hear,

Sounds that come not our senses near,
Insensate they by sin and strife ;

Yet heard by thee and all earth's flowers :

I would not do thee conscious wrong,

For thou hast stirred a patriot's song
By leaving thus thy native bowers

To waft me home where Sibyl's feet
Skim the bright meads thou once dids't bless,
Till Fancy shares the fond caress

Which greets my child when loved ones meet ;

Till Fancy seems with them to wind

From croft to croft, from hill to hill,

Ay, even sees a tear distil,
As some old joy comes back to mind ;

Till Fancy seems with them to stand,

Enthroned amidst the clustered hills,

And hears the song of distant rills
Come wafting up the shadowed land I

******

'Tie eve 1 — and now we pass the wood,
The bridge, the minnow-haunted stream —
Sweet bloom, thou bring'st a pleasant dream,

For hark 1 the voice of Otter's flood

Floats through my brain this April night —

I see familiar Sharp Haw loom

Majestic through the crescent gloom,
And Bylstone's legendary height,

And Ryeloaf's top, like temple dome,

Whence runlet raptures hie them down

To Otter's little hamlet town-
Sweet bloom, thine and my native home !

Little more than fifty years ago the country about Otterburn looked
bare and cold, but by judicious planting it wears now quite a sylvan
aspect. The old Hall was for many years occupied by Mr. William
Nightingale, the celebrated coursing judge, who farmed something near
a thousand broad acres in the district. He was an ardent sportsman,
and hunting to him was something more than " furious riding after a
nasty smell," for nothing pleased him better than the invigorating life
in the open air, rural sights and sounds, and all the picturesque and

gladsome adjuncts of the chase, — the music of the huntsman's horn, the
scarlet-coated horsemen, the hounds in full cry, and the sound-winded
jocund troops on foot ! Among the latter might once have been seen
old " Bobby " Ash, of Otterburn, a tall, hale, lithe old chap, who didn't
look half his age, but who had just tapped at the door of the century,
when he was taken away in February, 1888.

Otterburn, five hundred years ago, contained fourteen families, two
of which, according to the Foil Tax of 1379, kept servants, but the
principal taxpayer in the township at that time was the blacksmith, John
Bolliugton, who paid 6d., while every other householder was assessed at
4d. In monastic times it was mostly abbey land, held by the monks of

Otterburn.

Fountains and Bolton. In connection with the last-named monastery
mention is made in the fkilend. Rot. Char/arum, or Charter Rolls of the
time of Edward II., of Badolphus de Otterbume, who held lands at
Otterburn and Malham, and whose daughter married one of the
Olaphams. The monks had probably a chapel or cell here, as there was
a Ricardus, clericus de Otterburne, com. Ebor, living in the time of
Henry III.

The dale on this Bide of Settle lies on the eastern watershed of
England, and is remarkable for the many curious rounded grassy hillocks,
which are especially numerous and of large size in the neighbourhood of

809

Gargrave, Coniston, and Hellifield. They are often thrown up as much
as 150 feet above the land on which they lie, and are often, too, as many
feet long or wide, being composed of loose gravel and sand and ice-
transported stones (some over a ton in weight) that speak of the time
when enormous glaciers descended from the north moors and from
Ribblesdale, a few miles beyond. A section of any of the mounds shews
that the largest embedded boulders do not lie at the bottom, but that
they remain at all elevations throughout the mass. Undulating shales
and stratified limestone form the base on which the deposits rest ; the
contour and composition of which are well seen in the numerous railway
cuttings in the district.

The pasture land between Bell Busk and Otterburn has no doubt once
been a large lake, and is still low and swampy. In July, 1881, when the
greatest local flood, perhaps, of this century occurred, it was a sight not
to be forgotten. With the exception of a bit of low wall peeping up
here and there, the scene presented was that of a permanent, deep lake,
about whose far-extending surface wild water-birds were skimming and
diving as if it had been an old familiar haunt.

Mr. Gomersall took me to see one of the large natural grassy mounds,
just mentioned, which he and Mr. Tiddeman discovered on Nov. 4th,
1885, to have been appropriated at a remote period for sepulchral purposes.
It lies in a field close to the left of the road going from Otterburn to
Hellifield (2£ miles), and less than a mile from the former place. It is
soon recognised, although, — and the pity is, — it has been cut through for
the sake of the fine sand and gravel it contains, and now only about
half its circumference remains. It is incidentally noticed by Pennant
in his Tour from Downing to Alston Moor (1801).

It was a perfect circle, about 80 yards round, and one of the
finest and most shapely barrows in the whole district. It had evidently
been trimmed by the ancient peoples before conversion into a lodgment
for the ashes of the dead. Two large earthenware urns were found in
it, buried from one to two feet below the surface. The largest was quite
plain and measured 12 inches in height and l()f inches in its upper
diameter. It seems to have been a reliquary of some early hunter or
warrior celebrated in the arts of war. It contained a very good copper
knife or dagger, of lanceolate-leaf shape, and pierced with a single rivet-
hole,* and there was also a sharp-pointed bone, like a packing needle,
8 inches long, with a hole at the thick end, and another small object or
copper-fastening, the use qf which cannot be exactly defined. The other
urn contained a similar piece of thin metal binding. This vessel was

*A similar knife-dagger has been found at Driffield, in Yorkshire. See Dr. Evans'
Ancwnt Bronze Implements, Weapons, and Ornaments of Great Britain and
Ireland, (1881) page 224.

810

made of a badly-tempered clay, and was much broken and rotten, and
measured perhaps 10 inches in height and 8 inches through. Its collar
was ornamented with rude dots, extending 2£ inches down the sides.
The urns were separated from each other by a space of 45 inches from
centre to centre, and lay along a line E.N.E. and W.S.W., each being
covered with a stone slab. On removing the latter, some broken and
rudely-ornamented potsherds were discovered, as well as a smaller and
very perfect urn, of bowl shape, impressed with diagonal lines ; and the
base of another, upside down, covering calcined bones of a human
subject. A few months previous to these discoveries, Mr. Hargreaves,
junr., of Wenningber, the adjoining farm, found loose in the gravel a
very beautiful incised gem of amethystine quartz, which Dr. Evans, F.R.S.
President of the Society of Antiquaries, pronounces to be of good Roman
workmanship. It depicts a figure holding in one hand a long wand or
stick, with a ball at each end, and some shorter or thicker object in the
other. The subject is difficult to interpret. Close beside it there was
also found a thin silver coin, both articles, though of widely-differing
age, having evidently fallen from the surface on disturbing the soil.
The coin is an Irish penny of Henry III., struck at Dublin, and, says
Dr. Evans, not very common. It reads " Henricus Rex III., and
Ricard Ondive," — Richard on Divelin — Richard at Dublin being the
moneyer. It was probably dropped by its 18th century owner.

Formerly, along the top of the barrow there was a rectangular trench,
its longest diameter lying east and west, with an outlet on its north side
about three feet wide. A portion of this outlet still remains perfect, but,
as stated, the whole mound has been greatly despoiled. It is a pity
indeed that there is no acting society, or anyone apparently responsible
for the preservation of, at any rate, the more uncommon of these
sepulchral mounds. They are of great historic value, and at all times
are objects of genuine interest to the intelligent traveller.

On crossing the fields a few hundred yards to the south we come to a
well-preserved circular enclosure. At first sight it looks as if the
artificially-raised bank had originally been intended to support a circle
of stones, but this has probably been formed with the object only of
resisting the thrust of poles, used in the construction of a tent by some long-
forgotten family. The interior diameter of the circle is 27 feet, and the
sloping bank forming it is 5 feet through at the base and 3 feet across
the top. It is two to three feet high, with an opening at the north-west
angle 4 feet wide. Mr. Gomersall tells me th#t he has dug about several
parts of the enclosure but discovered nothing. It occupies a commanding
position, and in looking north is right opposite Otterburn Hall. A
little south again, in the Crane Fields, about midway between Crane
Field Lathe and a conspicuous row of trees on the field slope, about a

811

half-mile N.W. of Bonber farm-house, is another similar, bub less perfect,
enclosure. It is 27 feet inside diameter, and 5 feet across the base of
the bank, but this has been partly cut through in old times by the
plough, as indications of ancient furrows and trenches in these fields,
once waving with corn, or green with potatoe tops, abundantly proves.
The remains of a very much more perfect ring-dwelling lie about 100
yards S.E. of the last, and near the field bottom. This is again on the
level, and precisely of the same dimensions as the others described, with
an opening, or doorway at the north-west angle.

In the South Field belonging to Otterburn Hall, about 800 yards
south of the railway, and close to the fence, there is a sunk-dwelling, or
shallow, circular pit, once deeper than now, but still noticeable and
well-defined. It is 8^ feet across, with a thick earth bank, 6 feet wide,
round it, and trenched on its west side. In this field we perceive traces
of furrows, and strips or reins belonging to the old Open Field system,
indicative of a time when the ground was ploughed and produced a
variety of crops. Many of these pit and ring-dwellings have doubtless
been filled up and destroyed hereabouts from this cause. An old road
ran along the north side of these old plough-lands, and this single
shallow pit has escaped (lestruction owing, no doubt, to its lying
contiguous to the road. They are all, I think, referable to the period
when Baal worship prevailed in Craven, as previously explained in this
work, and also in my Airedale book in connection with Baildon and
Bell B'isk.

Accompanied by Mr. Gomersall on another occasion we left Otterburn
for Hanlith Moor and Malham by a route, perhaps, better imagined than
described. Walls and brooks are, of course, minor obstacles, but when
it comes to worming yourself through stout quickset hedges, discretion
indeed, had proved to us the better part of valour. However, when two
or more ardent investigators mean " business," the hazards of the route
are not to be thought of.

The view from Otterburn Bridge is very pleasing, with, northwards,
the round top of Ryeloaf filling the background, and looking, as my
companion observed, like the dome of St. Paul's ! It rises on the
watershed of England, its western becks draining into the Irish Sea, and
its eastern into the German Ocean. I wonder how many people, — old
natives even, know the real name of this fancifully-caricatured mountain ?
My friend seemed astonished when I told him that originally, and in old
maps, it was called Inglehow. There is a smack of the old beacon or
summit-fire in its designation, which, I make no doubt, originated, like
Ingleborough, the name of the hill. The stream that comes down from
its south-western slopes and joins the Otterburn Beck near the Pot
House, a little above the picturesque Lumb cascade, was and is also

812

called Ingle Beck still, bat the mountain, from some supposed resemblance
to a baker's form of rye-loaf, has been so-called past the recollection of
the oldest inhabitant. The Roman Camp at Stockdale Lane end, above
Settle, lay only two miles to the west, and this prominent height, which
commands a view westwards even as far as the Irish Sea, was, doubtless,
utilized as a signal to warn the garrison on the approach of an enemy.
There were other camps to the south and east, but these will be referred
to presently.

Proceeding from Otterburn Bridge northwards along an occupation
road, which emerges into a field-path above the east bank of the beck,
and within view of the cascade above mentioned, we ascend about 100
yards from the path into a field on the right, called Firbank, which was
all open moor prior to the enclosure effected in 1813. Here there is a
substantial outline of another of these level ring-dwellings, but much
smaller in its dimensions than those above described. It is excellently
preserved. Its internal diameter is 12 feet, and the sloping bank,
formed apparently for the double purpose of protection and adaptation
to withstand the thrust of poles for the tent, is 5 feet through at the
base and 8 feet at the top. There is likewise an opening or doorway
3 feet wide on the south-west side. A little higher up, at an elevation
of about 750 feet, and close to the west side of the fence dividing the
townships of Airton and Otterburn, is a large and tolerably well-defined
earthwork, very suggestive by its position and shape of an ancient camp.
The rampart on the west Bide is from 10 feet to 15 feet deep, and the
enclosure, which is in the form of an ellipse, is about 200 feet in
diameter. The site is an exceptionally good one, commanding as it does
a wide extent of country, open to all points of the compass. The cairns
on Ryeloaf, Kirkby Fell, Pike Daw, the majestic front of Malham Cove,
the cairn on Gordale Crag, the bare summit of the Weets, the rocky top
of Cracoe Fell, Norton Tower, the far-off silvery-gleaming cascade in
Waterfall Gill, Rylstone, Flasby Fell, Cold Weather Fell, Pendle Hill,
Whelpstone Crag, and Tosside Moor, are comprehended within the circle
of this beautiful and extensive panorama. Almost due east, 4 miles off,
is the similarly-shaped camp on Scarnber, and at a shorter distance south
that on Steeling Hill, west of Coniston. All these I take to be Danish.
The principal vill of the parish, Kirkby, close to, was unmistakably a
Danish settlement, and had probably not been wrested from the Anglo-
Saxons without a hard fight. The first church was most likely destroyed
by them.

Moreover, the form of castrametation, (which, however, cannot
always be relied on in this district), the absence of any discoveries of
Roman or other relics, and the proximity of the undoubted Roman camp
on High Hill, also favour this belief. The Romans appear to have

813

swept the higher ground to the north, crossing Malham Moor from
Wharfedale by the streets into Ribblesdale, and by Ebor* Gate on High
Side to the camp above Settle. The magnificent and palatial Roman
Villa at Gargrave (the gorgeous floor-tiles of which were unearthed in
the middle of last century), doubtless the tamporary refuge of Agricola
and the Emperors who visited Craven in the first and second centuries,
was not contiguous to any Roman highway ; the warm and sheltered
site having been chosen for it* comparative seclusion and safety. It is
quite certain that the more powerful and defiant hordes of Brythonic
.Celts, not to be overcome or influenced by Roman arms and style,
retreated to the caves and to the remote high lands, where, all through
the Roman occupation, they continued to live and to die, and were
buried in accordance with the familiar rites of their ancestors. No
doubt many instances of treachery and revolt took place amongst those
sympathising native Britons, who were in the yoke of the Roman
usurpers, especially when they offered help and food in times of stress
and famine, which, as is well known, were of frequent occurrence in
these barbarous and inhospitable regions.

In walking from the camp towards Kirkby Malham, we have
favourable opportunities for observing the effects of the limestone
anticlinals, or foldings of the rocks, in shaping the landscape. They
produce a succession of undulating, highly-inclined lines, having an
easterly and westerly range with a dip north, frequently of 80° to 90°, or
almost vertical. In one or two places the stone has been quarried and
burned for lime on the spot. Crossing Scosthrop Lane, and following
the path onward into Kirkby Gill, we descend to the other side of the
ravine, where there are deep exposures of the Yoredale beds, with their
alternating shales, inclined at a sharp angle in the same direction, north.
On the north side of the stream above, where it shallows out, there is an
-old u stinking " well. The water, which is strongly impregnated with
sulphur, is frequently resorted to, and is said to have the same beneficial
effects, when drunk, as the waters at Harrogate.

* Mr. Morrison, M.P., of Tarn House, is inclined to regard this spelling as
misleading on the Ordnance Map, and that it is more likely to be from the old
parish family of Heber than from the. Latin name of York. The •' Gate " ib at the
junction of three large parishes, viz., Settle, Long Preston, and Kirkby Malham,
but how the name has originated it seems now hard to say. The Hebers held
various scattered lands at Airton, Calton, and Malham, and also in Langstrothdale,
at Littondale Head, but whether at any time their possessions extended to this
point I have not yet been able to discover. In two fines for the years 1542 and
1544 Thomas Hayber, of Elslack, appears as plaintiff, and John Lambert, of Calton,
as deforciant, regarding certain properties at S-kipton, Calton, Airton, Malham, &c,
and certain rights of pasturage in West Mar ton, and free hunting, fishing, and
hawking through the whole of East and West Marton.

314

Lingering about the picturesque little village of Kirkby, with it»
fine old church (a garrison in the Parliamentary Wars) and memorials
of Cromwell and Lambert, I was shewn by Mr. Gomersall what seems to
have escaped the notice of every observer here, namely, the remains of
the old parish stocks. They are buried in rank grass and nettles, and
concealed by the west wall of the bridge, on the north side of the stream,
opposite the inn. How long they have been there, and whence they
were removed, no one now seems to know exactly.

Another form of punishment, not previously mentioned, in vogue at
Kirkby in the " good old days " was the ducking-stool. But this was
practised not on women scolds only, as was usually the case in our
villages, but the sterner sex, too, came in for a share of its operations, aa
the last trial proves. This was at the School Dub, where the chair waa
fixed to a moving beam, suspended over the water in the usual fashion.
The incident is hardly now within living recollection, but the facts are
vouched for, and they relate probably to the last use of the ducking-
stool in Craven. The victims were " Cappy " Trotter, of Kirkby. and
his wife, who were taken, according to the writ, and chained back to-
back, and then well soused amid the huzzas and general approbation of
a crowd of onlookers. Trotter was a tailor and cap-maker, and applied
to have his wife ducked as a scold. He felt sure of his case, but the
neighbours thought differently. We have all heard what the raven said
to the crow, — " Psha ! Get out of that you blackamoor," forgetting that
he himself was of the same sable hue. The magistrates listened
attentively to the complaint, and came to the conclusion that both were
guilty, and that neither was one shade better than the other. So they,
much to Cappy 's dismay, ordered a joint infliction.

Calton, by the way, on the other side of the Aire, was the home of
General Lambert, Commissary General of the northern army during the
Civil Wars, and to whose military genius the successes of Cromwell and
the strange turn of events at that tempestuous period is in large measure
owing. Lambert died a political exile in Guernsey some three years after
the Restoration. The old Hall which he occupied was'accidentally burnt
down in the lifetime of his son, and eventually replaced by the present
white house built about 80 years ago on its site.

The whole township of Calton was at one time parcelled out amongst
the three prosperous abbeys of Fountains and Bolton, in Yorkshire, and
Dereham, in Norfolk. Fountains held the water corn-mill at Scosthrop,
valued in 1540 at 40s. On the dissolution of religious houses, the
manor of Calton and a portion of the lands were acquired by John
Lambert, who lived at Calton, and was a J.P. of the West Riding, and
grandfather of the great General. There appears to have been a chapel
here, as I find mention of a William de Calton, clericus, in the following-

315

deed relating to a feoffment of land, &c, in the adjoining townships.
This ancient decree, which was witnessed at Kirkby-Malham in the year
1380, is interesting also for the several local names it bears :

WilluB de Calton, cler., Johes Couper, Robtus Carter, capellani, dedimus Johani
Malhome, &c., omnia tras, &c., que hemus ex feoff amen to p'dicti Johis in villis de
Haghenleeth [Hanlith], Kirkby, Otterburne, Flastby, Preston, Smethon, Notton,
Darrthington, Wads worth, and Thorpe. Testib. Willo de Ril stone, Henrico de
Pudsey, Nicho de Scardburgh, Willo de Daine, Willo Scorchbuf. Dat apd Kirkby
die Jovis p'ximu post f m sci Trinitas, S Ric. II.

There are several places in this vicinity which still bear the name of
this mediaeval chapel, as Chapel Fell and Chapel Laithe. The latter is
stated by the inhabitants of the district to have been built of the stones
of an ancient chapel, of which all recollection has perished. There was
also a public-house here in 1379, as appears by the returns of the Poll
Tax.

From Kirkby we have now to cross the river and ascend the Moor
Lane by Hanlith Hall, a picturesque old seat, long the home of the
Serjeantson family. My companion, Mr. Gomersall, remembers that at
the marriage in 1850 of Mr. Wharton Wilson, the present baronet of
Eshton Hall, he and his bride took up their residence here for some little
time. The event was celebrated by Mr. Wilson accepting the mastership
of the Craven Harriers, and on his removing afterwards to the south of
England he held a like position in connection with the Yale of the
White Horse.

In about 1} miles we arrive at a newly-erected gate across the lane,
which we have to open and get over a stile on the left about 30 yards
above the gate. At the top of the field here, and not far from the
unenclosed moor, there is a circular earthen mound or barrow. It
appears at some time or other to have been dug into, for there is an
opening two or three feet across, now partially filled up, in the centre of
the heap. The base of the outer circle is 40 yards round, the bank of
earth being 10 feet from the outer base to the middle of the bank top,
which is 50 feet in circumference at the top of the bank, and owing to
the excavations in the middle gives it the appearance of a "ring-
dwelling." Its position here would seem to indicate a late Celtic origin.
The elevation is about 1000 feet above sea level, and it looks north full
into the dark Gordale glen.

Hence, a descent may be made by way of Hanlith Gill, at the north-
west corner, where the wood is thinnest, and crossing the stream where
the Yoredale shales overlying the grits, thrown down by the Fault
forming Malham Cove and co-extending line of scars, are bared in fine
section by the perpetual abrasion of the descending waters. Going along
the fields towards Malham we soon enter Geld Flats Lane, and in the

S16

field on the left, about 80 yards above the Gordale Beck, is a splendid
and almost unique example of an ice-transported boulder of Silurian
conglomerate. It is composed of hundreds of rounded fragments of
Silurian grits and limestone, cemented together with carbonate of lime,
and forming a curious-looking " pudding-stone." It appears to have
been partially destroyed or, perhaps, reduced in size by the disintegrating
action of the weather. Its longest axis lies east and west, and its present
(1891) measurements are : length 5 feet, height 3 feet 9 inches,
thickness at base 2 feet, and at top 1 foot 6 in. An examination of the
surrounding walls, as also of the fences on the road between Kirk by and
Malham, shews that there have been similar blocks of conglomerate
deposited in this neighbourhood, and which are all the silent witnesses
of a time when the whole of Malham Moor, and the high land around
was a vast winding-sheet of frozen snow, when a huge glacier descended
this dale towards Bell Busk and Gargrave, and gradually retreating
northwards, left great tongues of ice in the Gordale glen and the deep
passes about Malham, depositing these bouldersand gravel on their tracks.
To see this remarkable relic requires only a few minutes* walk from
Malham. Go up Tinkle Street and on Geld Flats Lane (round by
Lister's photo-studio) about 200 yards, and in the field on the right,
about 50 yards from the wall, the stone will be found in position, where
it has stood for thousands of years. It is a great curiosity, and it is to
be hoped that it will be preserved.

817

CHAPTER XXX.

Malham and the Moors.

Physical and medical aspects of Malham — Family of Malham— Ancient homestead
— InnB — Unexplored caves — Skirethorns bone cave — Plants — Additions to
British lichens — Birds of Malham Moor — Bordley— An old grange of the
Fountains monks — Bordley Hall and the Procters — Ancient chapel and burial
ground — Confiscation of estates for murder — Ancient stone circle— Walk to
Grassington — Pre-historic camp and tumuli.

[ALHAM, in spite of its 640 feet of elevation, is both physically
and medically* well circumstanced. It is situated in the
shelter of that stupendous limestone barrier of beetling crags,
which, extending from Ingleton through Austwick eastwards
to Wharfedale, forms what is known to geologists as the Mid Craven
Fault, and which at Malham culminates in two of the most magnificent
scenic wonders in the north of England, the Cove and Gordale Scar.
This natural amphitheatre of towering hills and rocks protects the village
from every gale but the south, so that at all seasons it receives the full
advantage of the sun. The air is mild yet bracing, and that it is
exceptionally pure is evidenced by the survival of certain local maritime
and Arctic plants, which have retained their habitats with surprising
vigour through all the atmospheric vicissitudes and climatic changes of
unnumbered ages.

Malham gave name to a family of ancient renown, some of the early
members of which doubtless had a residence here. They were officers in
the Royal cause during the Civil Wars, and their estates here were
afterwards alienated to the Listers, now represented by the noble house
of Ribblesdale. The family of Malham has long been extinct. Whitaker
says that William de Malham married a daughter of John Feghers, or
Fezar, and this William I find in the Escheat Rolls, preserved at the
Record Office, held lands in the time of Edward II. at " Malhom, Calton,

* The reader must not understand this to imply a plethora of local medical
practitioners. We refer to the life-giving properties of the air. The district will
not maintain a single doctor ; the nearest being at Settle and at Gargrave, and in
cases of urgency a mounted horseman must be despatched, which means a roughish
journey out and home of twelve to fifteen miles !

318

Ayrton, Eaton, Grargrave, Conystone, et Foghisser [Fogga.] " The
extensive properties in East and West Malham were originally part of
the Percy Fee, and passing through various owners were ultimately
acquired by the monks of Bolton and Fountains, as explained in my
Airedale work. An old corn-mill at Malham came into the possession
of the monks of Fountains through Sir John le Aleman, Kt., in the time
of John, or early in the reign of Henry III.

There was a good old house at Malham with fine Tudor mullions,
standing in the early part of this century near some old yew trees a little
way up Finkle Street, but nothing remains of it now but portions of
foundations, and a door-lintel, inscribed 1684, H.L., which is built into
the wall at the junction of Finkle Street with Dead Man's Lane. The
old Prior Hall and Deer Park enclosure are just above it. Possibly this
house was built by the Listers, and is on the site of a still older one.

For a retired country place like Malhata, five miles from the nearest
railway-station at Bell Busk, and dependent largely on tourist traffic,
the accommodation is both ample and excellent. There are two inns
and a good temperance hotel, besides a number of smaller houses where
clean and comfortable private lodgings can be obtained for any length of
time. There has, no doubt, been an inn at Malham many centuries.
That there was a public-house here at any rate as early as the reign of
Richard II. looks likely by the tax of 12d., levied in 1379, upon Richard
Wilkokson and his wife, who must have leased it probably with some
land at Malham.* There was no inn then at Kirkby. The principal
inn, the Buck, doubtless received its name when the shaggy-horued
monarchs of the glen roamed the adjoining hills and corries. It may
not be generally known that the admirably-executed sign of this inn, as
well as those of the Sivan and Grouse, at Gargrave, were painted many
years ago by Sir M. Wharton Wilson, Bart., of Eshton Hall.

The district of Malham is now so well known, that I shall forbear
bursting into rhapsodies on the merits of the Gove and great Scar at
Gordale, as well as of the innumerable other sights and panoramic
prospects of various entertainment to the visitor.

This is singularly no neighbourhood for explorable caves, for beyond
the well-known little Fairy Hole at the waterfall, dedicated to the Queen
of the Malhamdale fairies, one Janet or Jennet, there is no accessible
cavern in the immediate district. That the limestone is fretted with
many and curious underground channels, and possibly some chambers of

* In 1496, Henry Preston, a freeholder, held a toft, a croft, and an oxgang of land
of the abbot, " in Malham, quondam Ricardi Willokson, filii Willielmi de Malham," by
military service, suit of court, and the payment of 6d. Huby'g Rent., p. 21. Richard
Wylcokson was the tenant in 1861. Reg. Rent. f. 187. One Richard Waylok then
also resided here. Ibid. 187 b — Surtces Soc. Pub. Vol. 42, p. 367.

319

large extent, goes without saying, bat these have not yet been revealed
to human gaze. It is even believed that behind Mai ham Cove there is
an immense vault, and several elongated openings in the mountain which
conceal the mysterious courses of the Aire, one of whose tributaries
bubbles into daylight at the foot of the majestic Gove. There are also
appearances of an extensive cavern to the west of Malham, beyond
Gordale in the direction of Lee Gate, for in going np the road towards
Lee Gate, as far as the road that turns over Calton Moor, and about 100
yards up the field on the left, there is a low narrow opening in the
limestone, and when stones are thrown into it the echo and noiBe of

Skikethorhs Cave.
their reboundings may be heard some time afterwards. There are also
couple of low holes on the north side of Malham Tarn, and in a pasture
called Long Close, above Skire thorns, there is an orifice, now choked
with earth and clay, which may prove to be a bone-cave. A little to
the south, near Height Farm, is the recently-opened cavern in a small
ferny cliff of limestone, in which has been found bones and teeth of
various animals and birds, as well as evidences of human occupation in
the immediate neighbourhood. The cave, which is situate at an altitude
of about 1200 feet, has not been fully excavated yet.

This is a rich district for plants, a fact that is well known among
naturalists all over the kingdom, and also abroad. Even the unprofessed

820

wanderer over the hills and scars will find the profusion of certain kinds
here a feature that cannot but arrest attention. In flowering plants,
mosses, and lichens, the district abounds in great variety, and also in
some species which, singularly, have not been found elsewhere on these
elevated and similarly-disposed rocky regions. To the list of lichens
given in my work on Airedale, I have pleasure in adding the following
recent local discoveries, which are new to the British Islands, and are
described in manuscript by Dr. Wm. Nylander, of Paris.*

Verrucaria Malhamenris, on damp, shady rock b near the ground at Malham
and Oordale ; V. spurcella, on limestone walls, ditto ; V. ratal cpt old e», f.
ferruginosa, and V. limitata, on limestone crags, Malham ; V. peloclita f,
eontiniiella, on damp rocks, Malham ; Leci&ea (Biatora) rubidula, on limestone
crags, Malham and Gordale. f

The very rare lichen Leptogium fluviatile, it is interesting to know,
still occurs " in the stream Malham." It was originally discovered by
the celebrated Dr. Richardson, F.R.S., an ancester of the Richardson-
Currer family of Eshton Hall, &c, in 1724, and it has since been
frequently noted and recorded by botanists in the same spot. It is
generally in fruit about the month of June.

In birds, too, there is plenty of life and interest on these wild uplands.
About Malham Tarn may generally be seen the shy waterhen, and flocks
of teals and coots, and sometimes a few mallards will be observed.
The beautiful little grebe and marsh-loving redshank are said to nest
regularly in the vicinity of the tarn, and on one occasion, at least, the
rare tufted-duck has likewise done so. The ring ouzel, wheatear,
partridge, snipe, red grouse, golden plover, dunlin, lapwing, and curlew,
also frequent the adjoining moors, and impart a singular yet acceptable
feeling of companionship to the rambler in these impressive solitudes.
Who is not familiar with the long-drawn, half -mournful, oft-repeated
" pee-wit " of the lapwing as on steady wing the bird, or birds (it is said
to be a foreboding of ill-luck when there are seven) follow close above the
tourist's head while on tramp over the lonely fells ? Or with the
peculiar cry of the curlew, too, as with long beak and outspread wings,
the alarmed bird sails sharply off and afar up, preferring a safe distance
to the wanderer's presence ?

" Where the grey moor spreads wild and wide,
Afar the curlew's wind-borne whistle floats ;
Or where on level shore an ebbing tide

Leaves rippled sand-flats, soft the plaintive notes
Surprise the ear, while high on curving wing,
Speed the shy birds to some secluded spring I"

* A detailed description of the plants has been translated by Mr. Abraham
Shackleton and Mr. Thos. Hebden, and appears in the Naturalist for Jan., 1892.

+ Much speculation has arisen from time to time respecting the meaning of Gordale. I venture
the opinion that it is from the Celtic gmw, rugged or rough, thus Gordale is the rugged or rough
dale. It may, however, be derived from the Danish word geir % which is used in Denmark to
denote a narrow slip of ground. The old Dane-named thoroughfare* Finkle Street, (D. otjicW,
crooked) moreover, wjnds out of Malham to Gordale.

321

The curlew is exceedingly shy and unapproachable, so much so that
there is a saying in the Hebrides that to kill seven of these birds is
enough for a sportsman's lifetime.

The chief " city " or capital of Malham Moors is Bordley, which is
reached by a walk of about four miles from Malham' village by Gordale
Bridge and Lee Gate House. In these days of railroads and rapid
communication, a more out-of-the-way spot for the site of a community
of human dwellings could hardly be imagined. Surrounded by a billowy
" sea " of wild, bleak fells, rising to the north to over 2000 feet in
elevation, and on the road to nowhere in particular, it is one of those
places which only the adventurous tourist in these parts is likely to
discover, and probably more by chance than design, but now and again
in a lifetime. It is, however, a very old and productive settlement^
having been tenanted in Saxon times, and at the Conquest held by one
Suartcol, who had the manor, comprising a couple of profitable carucates,
and who also held the manor of Hetton.* When the monks and
herdsmen attached to Fountains Abbey had their flocks on Fountains
Fell and the surrounding moors, they often frequented this remote
hamlet, making it their occasional home, and where they had a large grange
and chapel. For journeys were regularly made by them to and from
the distant abbey, by way of Kilnsey, (where the annual sheep-shearings
took place) and across the high moors on which Bordley stands, and
where also their spacious Bercary or Shepherds' Lodge formerly stood.
Although the village is high and exposed, and, contrary to its shade-
suggesting Domesday name, Borelaie, is unprotected by woods and
hedgerows, at an altitude of over 1200 feet above the sea, yet the place
is well farmed, and its rich meadow-lands, Mr. Gomersall tells us, can
fatten a beast between November and May without the aid of cake and
corn, and some of whose limestone pastures can send fat wethers of
25 lb. per quarter to market in the Autumn on similar conditions. It
used to be a more important place than it is now, and had a good many
more houses, especially during the time when, about a century ago, the
Autumn cattle fair was held on Boss Moor (1100 feet), a little way off
to the south. There was then an old-established public-house, called the
Waste inn, at the head of the lane leading from Malham and Settle to
Kilnsey and Grassington, and close to Bordley, but there are no traces
of it now.

The Procters were the principal family located at Bordley in ancient
times, and some of their descendants now live at Rylstone. They lived
at Bordley Hall, above the beck side, which is now let, but still their

* Bordley, hitherto an independent, though the smallest, township in the
Union, has recently been disfranchised, and linked again with the old manor of
Hetton. It retains its guardian, however, until March, 189S.

property. The Fells and 'Pennants were also settled here at ail early
period, and all those families are perpetuated is the district by such
names of places as Procter's High Mark, Tennant Gilt, Fella' Land, &c.
In the Feet of Fines for the year 1596, I find certain parties to a
transfer of property were The*. Fell and Richd. Sheffeld (plaintiffs), and
John Tenant and Anthony Fell (deforciants), regarding " two messuages
with lands in Bordeley, Kilnesaye, and Arnecliffe, and the moiety of a
watermill in Arnecliffe." Other early transactions of a similar nature
between these families also occur.

Bobdlby Hall.

The Procters were a family of great consequence in monastic days,
and were connected with the wealthy monastery at Fountains. They
were at first tenants of the monks, and sometime after the dissolution of
the Abbey acquired a large portion of their estates. In 1596-7, Stephen
Procter, of Warsell, near Ripon, an officer in the court of Elizabeth and
James I., and who was knighted at the Tower of London in 1603-4,
purchased from the Greshams the whole manor and lordship of
Fountains, and certain other premises, for the sum of £4500. Some
years afterwards, in 1611, Sir Stephen erected, at a cost of £8000,
Fountains Hall, which was built out of the ruins of the Abbot's house.
The Procters settled at Bordley probably towards the end of the 15th
century, and have resided there almost uninterruptedly since.

823

The old Hall at Bordley appears to have been re-built, according to
a date at the back of the house, in 1749. It was formerly much larger,
and had seven entrances, but there are now only two. There was a
private chapel attached to the Hall, where the family were wont to
welcome their monkish guests, and where doubtless many a prayer of
thanksgiving has been heard, for safely-ended journeys across these
savage fells. Attached to the chapel was a grave-yard, now known as
Chapel Garth, from which several tombstones have been removed, and
since used as flagstones for the barn floor.

A very interesting will of an early member of the Bordley family,
one Geoffrey Procter, who died in 1524, is printed in the 5th volume of
the Surtee8 Society's Publications. It is a quaint document, singularly
elucidatory of the life and habits of the higher class of Graven yeomanry
of the 15th and 16th centuries, but is unfortunately too long for
quotation here.

A grandson of this Geoffrey Procter, also named Geoffrey, lived at
Malham, and purchased the manor of West Malham from the Greshams,
to whom the said manor had been granted by deed dated Oct. 1st, 82nd
Henry VIII. In the following year, 1541, he sold to John Lambert,
the founder of the family at Calton, the house and land at Calton, and
by fine passed in 1544 be and his wife Wenefreda, sold to one William
Preston, four messuages with lands in Malham and Hanlith. It seems,
however, that this Geoffrey Procter was executed at York in 1551, for
the murder of Hugh Diconson, whereby his estates were forfeited to the
Crown.* By deed dated 16 May, 6th Edward VI., (1552,) the manor of
West Malham, with 80 messuages, 80 cottages, 2 watermills, and 2
windmills, with lands there and in Arncliffe, was again sold to one
James Altham.

To the north-east of Bordley, and near the long wall (at the second
gate-way) that skirts the road past the Heights Cave to Skirethorns and
Grassington, is a relic of the far-distant era, when warlike hordes of
skin-clad Celts occupied these remote wastes during, and long after, the
Roman invasion ; preferring, as they did, their own mode of life and
form of worship to that of the conquering usurpers. This pre-historic
relic consists of a round stone and earthern mound, about 150 feet in
circumference, and 3 feet high, and was formerly surrounded by a circle of
upright stones, only three of which are now left standing. On one side
was a large flat stone resting upon two others, and known as the Druid's
Altar. On the adjoining land an ancient iron spear-head was found
some years ago, and fragments of rudely-fashioned pottery have also
from time to time been turned up in the same neighbourhood. Similar
stone-encircled mounds have been found on the Yorkshire Wolds.

* See " Memorials of Fountains Abbey," Surteet Soc. Pub., vol. lxvii, p. 346,

324

Prom this point the tourist is barely four miles from Grassington by
a decent down-hill road. This is one of the prettiest and best known
resorts in Wharfedale, and the charming and wondrously luxuriant Grass
Woods (long may they remain !) there, are as great a feast to the eye of
taste as they are a treasure-land of interest to the botanist ; in vegetable
wealth, indeed, unrivalled by any similar area of woodland scenery in
the shire of broad acres. At the last meeting of the Yorkshire '
Naturalists' Union at Grassington, on June 20th, 1891, — a beautiful and
unclouded day, ever to be remembered, — above 180 species of flowering
plants and ferns were noted in the course of the day's ramble, chiefly in
these woods ! But this is by no means exhaustive of everything that
grows in this fairy-land of shrubs and flowers. The number might, by
a close observer, be very nearly doubled.

In a field called the High Close, above Grassington village, there are
some ancient stone and earthen ramparts, which cover a considerable
area. They are in two parts, in the plan of a Roman camp, and in the
angles are several undoubted tumuli. These appear to be early British,
and when examined may yield remains of the Roman-Celtic period. An
old paved road can be traced upwards from the Wharfe by Scar Street,
and through the village to the camp.

Last autumn when at Grassington, I was told that while lately laying
down water-pipes near Hardy Grange some portions of this old pavement
had been dug into two feet below the surface.

At Dry Gill about 6 miles from Grassington, on the Pateley Bridge
road, are the celebrated Stump Cross Caverns. They were accidentally
discovered during a search for lead in January 1860, and have since
been opened out and are now shewn to visitors on application at the

adjoining Moor Cock inn. The caverns, which are entered down a flight
of about 50 steps, consist of a number of galleries and chambers one
above the other, and these rival, perhaps, in their stalactitious
adornments any of the finest spar-caves in England. The explorable
extent is about 1,000 yards.

Craven Cross, the Stump Cross, so-called from an old way-side cross,
stood on the road close by, and marked the boundary of Craven on the
east, where it joined the old Forest of Nidderdale. The cross seems to
have been demolished shortly after the Reformation.

On the same road, a little beyond, is Greenhow Hill, (1441 feet) the
highest village in Yorkshire.

325

CHAPTER XXXI.

Round about Kilnsey.

Mai ham to Kilnsey — Arncliffe Clowder — Dowkabottom Cave— Its exploration and
interesting discoveries — A Celtic habitation — A baby's tomb— Roman coins-
Sleets cavern — Kilnsey Hall — Wade family — Manor of Kilnsey after the
Dissolution — Sheep- washings of the monks— Kilnsey Crag — Supposed ancient
coast line -Glacial aspects — What does Kilnsey mean?— Dr. Whitaker's
opinion— The Spurn Head Kilnsea— Comparative deductions— Discovery of
coins — Coniston Church, the oldest in Craven — TennanVs Anns, Kilnsey —
Sulphur Spring — Glacial mounds— Great Scar Limestone round Kettlewell —
Lead mineB.

|0W that we are on Malham Moors, we may as well turn our

steps over the high fells in the direction of Kilnsey. From

the gate at the lane-end at the Druid's Altar, near Bordley*

where it opens on to the common, opposite a plantation, we

follow the left wall northwards a good half-mile, to the lane which

descends across the Howgill Beck to Kilnsey.

On Arncliffe Clowder, near this route, there still grows and flourishes
that pretty and now scarce floral gem, the little Mountain Avens (Dry as
octopetala) ; in June and July its rosettes of pale, golden flowers starring
the greensward in some profusion, just as one finds them (though not
quite so large) on the mountains of Switzerland at the present day.
This is, so far as is known, its only habitat in West Yorkshire, where it
has taken firm root and annually bloomed, no doubt for innumerable
centuries.

Dowkabottom Cave might be visited this way, by crossing Kilnsey
Moor from the above lane, \\ miles north, (that is coming by Smearbottom
Lane and Lee Gate from Malham), but most people get to it from the
dale at Kilnsey, whence it lies l£ miles, by an up-hill walk, to the north-
west. You have to ascend the scar behind the inns (by permission),
having the depression on the right, and when on the top keep west along
the rising ground, when a stone " man " will be seen on an eminence
ahead. The cave (1280 feet above sea-level) is situate in a hollow flat
(now a rabbit-warren) at the corner of the field, about 150 yards S.E.
of the cairn. A nearer and better way, perhaps, is to ascend the pastures
from the Arncliffe road, about one mile beyond Kilnsey, and just before

326

reaching Arncliffe Cote. Go up the " Parks/ 1 and then the Knotts (now
planted with trees) and the rabbit-warren, wherein lies the famous cave,
is in the next pasture above. The spot, however, is bad to find, and
unless the keeper is about it would, perhaps, be as well to take a guide
up from Kilnsey. No dogs are allowed.

The cavern, like the Victoria Gave, near Settle, has acquired a
national fame from the quantity of pre-historic and other remains found
in it, and which extend over an immense period. Part of these were
first brought to light about thirty years ago by those careful
and indefatigable cave-workers, Mr. Henry Denny, Mr. Joseph
Jackson, of Settle, and Mr. James Fairer, of Ingleborough.* But prior
to their investigations a bronze armlet had been accidentally discovered,
as well as various fragments of iron, broken bones, charcoal, &c.

The present entrance to the cave is on the level bottom, and easily
overlooked. It is a declivitous aperture about 45 feet long and 20 feet
broad, very singularly formed by the subsidence of the rock at the
surface, and the accumulated debris piled up in the centre, separates the
chasm into two parts. The western division is narrow and difficult of
access, but the eastern portion, consisting of five or six passages of an
average height of 10 to 12 feet, but in some places allowing only of the
progression of a single person, has been penetrated a distance of about
200 yards. In this part of the cave are several lofty chambers, 50 to 70
feet in altitude, and from 100 to 150 feet in circumference. There are
indications on the walls of the cavern that not very long ago water has
filled it to a depth of ten to twelve feet. The latter portion is now at
times very wet, necessitating walking in the stream at places knee-deep.
Some parts of the cavern are beautifully encrusted with delicate spar,
reflecting a variety of hues, which led Bishop Pococke to exclaim after
visiting the cave, "This is Antiparos in miniature, and except that
cavern 1 have never seen its equal." This is an excellent testimonial for
Dowkabottom from so experienced a traveller, but alas ! much of this
beauty has since ruthlessly disappeared.

In 1881 the cavern was again explored, and excavations conducted
by Mr. E. B. Poulton, M.A., F.U.S., of Oxford, and a party of
undergraduates from the Colleges, who spent the long summer vacation
of that year in the adjoining picturesque little village of Hawkswick.
They were assisted by two Grassington miners, and were provided with
all the necessary appliances. The work, extending over several weeks,
was carried on by these gentlemen at their own cost.

It was discovered that the original mouth of the cave lay some yards
away to the west of the present entrance. The superficial floor was found
to be composed of a stiff clay and fragments of tumbled rock, several

* See the Proceeding* of the W.R. Oeol. and Polytech. Soe., 1859 and 1864-6-6.

827

feet in thickness. Underneath this was a bed of stalagmite, in
connection with which some of the most interesting discoveries were
made. In the first chamber, outstretched on this hard, congealed mass,
at a depth of six feet from the surface, Mr. Farrer discovered a perfect
skeleton of a red-deer, of enormous size ; the large antlers especially
being remarkably handsome and well-preserved. Bones of the wild boar,
Celtic short-horn, and primitive dog (canis primmvus) were found along
with it. A portion of a horn belonging to the megaceros, or Irish deer,
was also discovered in this chamber. As this animal was co-eval with
the mammoth and rhinoceros, mentioned in our account of the Victoria
Gave, some idea may be obtained of the vast period that has elapsed
since these creatures haunted the Graven Highlands, revelling as they
did in the hot streaming sunshine, when eternal summer flushed scar
and pool.

Ample proof of the human occupation of the cave was also
forthcoming. Bight or nine spoon-shaped brooches of bone, and two
harp-shaped in bronze, a couple of spindle-whorls, two kinds of pottery,
one of coarse-black earth, badly-tempered, and the other an inferior
Samian ware ; t a bronze needle, portions of flint implements, rubbed and
cut bones, a bronze pin, remarkable for the head being plated with silver,
and fragments of several human skeletons, were among the latter
evidences brought to light. A tiny grave in the stalagmite, barely
exceeding a foot in length and nine inches in width, was found in the
west chamber, and it contained a small victim, — the crouched-up
skeleton of an infant. This long-concealed little being is probably late
Celtic, or of a period subsequent to the Roman occupation, but some of
the other remains, above enumerated, are unquestionably neolithic, that
is of an epoch that must be reckoned back three or four thousand years
at least. Especially interesting was the discovery of several bronze
coins, which afford a certain index to one period of the occupation of the
cave. These were of Roman mould, and bore the impress of the
emperors Trajan (a.d. 117), Claudius Oothicus (a.d. 268), Tetricus
(a.d. 278), and a very fine one, minted in the second century, of
Antoninus Pius, being one of the rare types issued to commemorate the
difficult conquest of Britain. It bears the inscription Anton In US
Pius. Aug. P. P. T. R. P. COS. III., [Antoninus Pius. Augustus.
Pater. Patrise. Tribunitia. Poteste. Consol. Tertium.] ; to the right a
radiated head of the Emperor, and on the reverse, Britannia. COS.
INI. [Britannia Consol. Guartum.] Upon the coin was engraven the
figure of a female seated on a rock in an attitude of despair, and before
her lay an oval shield and military standard. The discovery of these
coins show that the cave was tenanted by one or more families during
the Roman occupation of Britain, and probably afterwards. There is

328

another cave at the Sleets, on the road from Kilnsey to Arncliffe, but
this has not been properly explored yet. It may possibly yield further
valuable information on the past history of this interesting district.

But we must now descend from the moor to Kilnsey, and have a peep
at the famous Crag, which overtops the dale close to the village. There
are some other things of interest here, too. The old Manor House, or
Kilnsey Hall, just above the post office, is worth a passing notice. It
is fast falling to decay, and some portions of it are now used for farm
sheds. It was formerly approached by two fine, large. archways, but these
unfortunately have been destroyed. They opened into what looked like
a court-yard, but the walls are now gone also. It is more than probable
that this was connected with the offices of the monks of Fountains, who
held their courts here for all their manors in Craven, saving Litton and
Langstrothdale. At the east end of the house is a much older building
than the main portion, and this has a chapel-like appearance, with a
doorway on the north side. There is also an antique three-light window
in its east gable. The building is only small, 20 feet by 10 feet. In
the Hall itself are some fine plaster frescoes, and a representation of
family arms.

Over a north doorway there are the letters and date, C. W., 1648.
The initials are those of Christopher Wade, a member of an old family
long settled in this neighbourhood. He married a daughter of Cuthbert
Wytham, of Garforth, and his son, Cuthbert Wade, was a man of some
renown during the Civil War, holding the rank of Captain in the
army of Charles I. His wife was a daughter of Col. Francis Malham,
of Elslack Hall.

With respect to Fountains Abbey, their estate at Kilnsey originally
consisted of 2£ carucates of land, given by William Fitz Duncan,
nephew of David, King of (Scotland, and Alice his wife, Lady of the
Skipton Fee, and foundress of Bolton Priory. This was in the time of
Abbot Murdac, or about a.d. 1150. On the fall of the Abbey, the manor
of Kilnsey, along with other extensive possessions belonging to that house,
was granted in the 82nd year of Henry VIII. to Sir Richard Gresham, Kt.,
and his heirs for ever, subject to certain reservations of rent payable to
the Crown, in the case of Kilnsey, Coniston, and Northcote, amounting
to 59s. Id. " The Licence of alienation [from the Greshams] for the
manor of Kilnsey," says Whitaker, " bears date 6th Edward VI., but I
do not find who was the purchaser." The purchaser was Sir John
Yorke, Kt., late Sheriff of London and Under-Treasurer of the Mint.
The property included the manor of Kilnsey, 20 messuages, 10 cottages,
and a watermill with lands there and in Arncliffe, Northcote, Scarthcote,
Chapel House, and Coniston. Shortly after the completion of the
purchase in 1553, in which year Queen Mary ascended the throne,

329

Sir John Yorke, for some reason or other, was committed to the Tower.
" The xxvij. day of July (1553), the Duke of Suffolk, maister Cheke, the
Kynges Scolmaster, maister Coke, and ser John Yorke, sente toe ye
Towre." (Vide the " Diary of Henry Machyn," Camden Soc, 1848.)
Sir John was, however, soon afterwards released.

There is a pasture behind the old Manor Hall, under the Crag, called
Monks' Close, and in the river below, in the hey-days of the monastery,
the great sheep-washings took place. In the Poll Tax Rolls for a.d.
1379, there is no suggestion of there being a public hostelry at
Kilnsey, nor at Coniston, over the water. Very probably the monks brewed
their own ales, for they were great ale-drinkers, and on these festive
occasions there would be no lack of " good cheer " stirring, and ample
accommodation provided for both man and beast. At the Dissolution
the monks held 8 tenements, besides corn and fulling mills at Kilnsey,
which, combined, yielded an annual rental of £16 8s. 2d., or over £160
of present money.

The immense Crag, thrown up by the North Craven Fault, running
eastwards from Ingleton by Malham Tarn to Threshfield, extends along
the dale for nearly half-a-mile from Kilnsey, and is a splendid piece of
scenery. It is built up of a mighty castle-like wall of rock, 165 feet
high, conjoined with a series of impregnable natural round-towers,
inaccessible to everything but the hosts of starlings and jackdaws that
find a secure home upon their jagged flanks, whence also impend a few
branching trees, which, although threatened by every gale of wind that
lashes the vast cliff, manage somehow to maintain a vigorous, if
precarious, existence. A capital echo is obtained on shouting from the
road. The Crag has often been likened to a great sea-cliff, and the
buoyant imaginations of many writers have very prettily pictured to us
the big salt-waves leaping up against its rocky breast, with all the
fortuitous details of local marine activity. One writer, in the Spectator
for October, 1874, even goes so far as to define the actual sea-loch,
which he maintains must have been determined by Kilnsey Crag marking
the shores on the west side, and Whitestone Cliff, under the Hambletoris,
those on the east ; but forgetting, even if the phenomena were provable,
that a loftier barrier than either — the Nidderdale and Wharfedale
watershed — stands high up in between I Of course, a grand weather-
beaten cliff like this is very tempting to such speculations, but physically
there is not as much indication left of the presence of the ocean-wave at
this point as there is in many of the low, open flats in West Yorkshire,
as at Hellifield, for instance, elsewhere described.

The sea has undoubtedly filled the Dales more than once, but its
intrusion is not to be told, nor its coast-line defined by such storm-
battered scars as that at Kilnsey. A more reasonable theory (and I have

330

no doubt such has been tbe case at a much more recent period than any
cataclysm of the sea) that a. large inland lake has occupied the valley
below the Crag, caused, on the retreat of the glaciers and on the melting
of the mountain snows, by the onion of the waters of the Skirfare and
the Wharfe close by, which expanding into a vast sheet, filled the flat
and now verdant expanse stretching from the foot of the Crag to the
skirts of Con is to n Pie. The waters of this large lake, more than
half-a-mile across, laved the bases of these majestic heights, upon which
there still rest deposits of ancient alluvium left by a more expanded
stream than exists at present. We can also tell by the rounded contour
of the north side of the scar, exemplified in our illustration, that the

Kilnsey Crao.

conjoined glaciers of the Wharfe and Skirfare have pressed heavily upon
the Crag at this point, and have torn off the limestone rock, and the
Silurian strata probably once exposed at the base, as plentiful fragments
of these are to be found in the drift of the valley close by.

I have also no doubt that to this bold, obtrusive cliff the village of
Kilnsey owes its name. In Domesday, (the oldest authoritative spelling),
it is written CMeseie, and the learned historian of Craven, Dr. Whitaker,
and it would seem all writers on the subject since his day, assume that
from the resemblance, apparently, of the first portion of the name to our
modern word thill, the composition gives countenance to tbe derivation,
chilly spring. But this is a deduction which certainly does not

881

recommend itself to reasonable judgment. It would, in the first place,
be strange, if when the site was first named, the great sheltering cliff
should be overlooked and some obscure or small spring hit upon to
describe the locality. But such a spring or stream, moreover, would
have had to possess some undoubted qualification for the selection, and
there is none, nor has history or tradition preserved the record of any>
which in its general temperature is any degree colder than scores or
hundreds of springs and wells in the district with which I am acquainted.

Now, in Holderness, at the Spurn Head, there is a village of like
appellation as this, spelled in the Domesday record Chilnesse. The fine
old church there stood upon a cliff overlooking the sea, and about sixty
years ago it became ruinous, and finally toppled into the all-devouring
waves, by their gradual encroachment and undermining action. Old
Drayton, in the Polyolbion (1620), speaks of " Kilnsey's pyle-like point
along the eastern shore," and these two Kilnseys were undoubtedly
known to both the old Britons and Romans, and it is more than probable
that their conspicuous eminences were first named by the former, or
earlier race. In the British tongue chil, y-chil, or o-chil (the ch is pron.
as *), signifies a high cliff or promontory, so that in the Wharfedale
Chileseie* we have obvious allusions to some high-seated water, tarn, or
spring ; and in the Spurn Head Chilnesse, to the elevated ness or cape
on which the village lay. The Ochills in Scotland, the Chilterns in
England, the stupendous Achill Island sea-wall in Ireland, 1500 feet
high, and other elevations bearing in their names the same root-word
chily or o-chill (sometimes twisted into nchel and ukil) denote a like
origin. The Romans often Latinised the old British names, and they
did this one by designating no fewer than thirteen high points on the
British coast, Ocelum Promontorium. Such was Flamborough Head on
the Yorkshire coast, in the map of Ptolemy, sometimes attributed to the
Spurn, but from the greater prominence of the former, it no doubt has
the better claim. So that Flamborough Head, and Eilnsey Crag, and
Kilnsea on the Spurn are all indebted to their several overhanging and
relatively commanding cliffs for the origin of their names. I may just
add, what is certainly a remarkable coincidence, that a few years ago a
bag of Roman coins was fonnd imbedded in the sea-cliff some distance
above Kilnsea. The coins were chiefly of Tetricus (a.d. 267 to 278)
and Claudius Gothicus (a.d. 268), or precisely of the same age and
pattern as those discovered in Dowkabottom Cave, on Kilnsey Moor,
above recorded.!

Opposite Kilnsey is the pretty village of Coniston (the second village
of that name in Craven), with its pleasing May Pole, replaced in 1885,

* The local pronunciation is still Kilsey, the n being silent,
f See the " Hull and East Riding Portfolio," (1887), p. 46.

332

and interesting old church over the way. The church has a fine Norman
doorway, and the interior is remarkable for two well-preserved semi-
circular arches, resting upon square cippi, each of the capitals of which
is a simple abacus, and of the bases a plinth. The oldest part of the
nave of St. Albans is wrought precisely in this manner, and is in the
purest style of the Roman architects, who never turned arches upon
columns. This peculiar feature of the building is unique in Craven, and
evidently indicative of a period anterior to the Conquest. The church-
yard is spacious, and commands a very beautiful view of the Dale.
Though a burial place for probably a thousand years, the oldest legible
grave-stone I have noted bears the date 1727-8.

There is one of the best-kept way-side inns in the Dale country at
Kilnsey, — the TenrmnCs Arms, a well-known trysting-place of anglers,
and of tourists on tramp and on wheels. It is kept by Mr. Henry
Inman, who makes up about 20 beds, and who has every accommodation
for both man and beast. The certainty of obtaining a good lodgment is one
strong temptation to travel, and so homely and convenient a resting-place
in such an out-of-the-way spot may well tempt us to linger here a little
time in order to explore the neighbouring dales and scars. The smaller
house adjoining — the Angler's inn — is, however, the older establishment,
it having been built for a " public " as far back as 1760. In 1882 Mr.
Tennant, the proprietor of both houses, dropped the license of the last-
mentioned, but in 1886 it was renewed, and has since been continued.

We are now in a very grand part of Wharfedale. Moving towards
Kettlewell the green hills and white scars rise proudly on either hand.
Near the bottom of the field, going in at the third gate on the right,
after crossing the Skirfare Bridge, at the foot of Littondale, there is a
Sulphur Spring, which does not seem to be much known. The smell
and taste are somewhat similar to those at Eirkby Malham and in Bolton
Woods, but the water, so far as I know, has never been analysed.

Hereabouts we see a number of large moraine hillocks, relics of the
great glaciers descending the two dales of the Wharfe and Skirfare.
Scientifically speaking, the scenery of this neighbourhood is extremely
interesting. The Great Scar Limestone, ranging along a succession of
lofty precipitous scars and terraces, rising one over the other, here attains
its widest expanse and greatest thickness in Craven. In Kettlewelldale
and Littondale, to the west, the limestone forms a solid and vast
calcareous mass, probably not less than 1000 feet in thickness, nearly
800 feet of which is exposed. It is largely quarried, and is very white
and pure, and it is said will carry more sand than any other lime known.

On Cam Moor, Middlesmoor, and Bucken Gable, to the north and
west of Kettlewell, are several productive veins of lead, but they are not
now worked.

388

CHAPTER XXXII.

Kettlewell and Arncliffe.

The farthest place in England from a railway — Aspects of Kettlewell — Memorable-
flood — Ancient church— Curious font — Extinct wild animals in Craven —
Remains of early occupation by Man— Douk Cave — Ascent of Great W hern side
— By the "Slit" to Arncliffe— Arncliffe, supposed eagle's cliff — Another
meaning — The old church at Arncliffe.

IFTEEN miles from the nearest railway platform, — that is

where we are now, and can any other place in England lay

Ruch a claim ? Town-felt worry and distraction become

assuaged at the bare thought of such an idea of distance from

the din of railways and the racket of streets. There is, however, plenty

of 'bus traffic and conveyances in the Dale, to and from Skipton, which

impart a certain animation to this otherwise undisturbed seclusion.

Kettlewell is a delightful place to stay at, and its remoteness from
railway metals is certainly not the least of its charms. At the week-
ends, when the dales-folk cease from their labours, and the fields are
deserted by all but the browsing herds, what a feeling of refreshment
there is spread over earth and air ! What a sense of joyous freedom
lives through the long days, — what time and room to breathe in ! How
calm and quiet and beautiful all seems, and how sweet, too, the far-heard
chime of Sabbath bells on a bright summer morn ! The blue sky, with
its films of white cloud, lies serenely on the hill tops, the scars where the
sun is upon the opposite horizon, are in shadow, and the tall trees by the
beck side invite you to linger beneath their cool shades. The very
prattle of the running water seems soothing, and to sound more restful
on the Sabbath than on other days.

Viewed from the west, on the main road to Kilnsey, the village and
its surroundings look uncommonly well. At the junction of three valleys,
or depressions of varying width, the bare, ascending flanks, white scars,
and dark, peat-clad summits (with the stone pike on Great WhernBide
conspicuous), are in pleasing contrast with the verdant, level meads,
grazed by sheep and cattle, and groups of rather fine trees that lie around
the long, winding village. On its west side the village is washed by the
Wharfe, which is crossed by a substantial two-arch stone bridge. The
natives call the Wharfe the gurt (great) beck, and the rivulet that courses

384

through the village, the lile (little) beck. Both are excellent trout
streams. Both also are subject to heavy floods. In 1881, during the
great storm noticed elsewhere in these pages, the lesser beck and the
Wharf e as far as the bridge were one water, and the basement floors of
the Race Horses Hotel were covered to a. depth of nearly twelve inches.
Some other houses fared hardly better, and much damage was done.
The family of Leyiand, proprietors of the hotel just mentioned, has been
seated in this locality about five centuries. In 1456 John Laland was a
shepherd of the Abbot of Fountains at Warsall, in the Liberty of Ripon,
and in 1480 John Layland was a shepherd of the same monastery at
Ooniston Moor.

The most memorable local flood on record is that which occurred in
the summer of 1686, and is thus described in a Petition for a Brief from
the King for collections on behalf of the sufferers to be made throughout
England. It is dated Skipton, July, 1686.

Between one and three p.m., on the 8th of June last past, there happened an
earthquake and a violent and dreadful Tempest of Thunder, haile, and raine, which
descended soe violently from the Mountaines and out of ye cavernes, that it
immediately overrun and did teare up the bancks of the rivers running through ye
townes of Kettlewell and Starbotton in Kettlewell parish, when 100 acres of good
land were washed away, and 100 acres covered with stones and gravell, the auncient
streams were diverted, and sevrall bridges were driven downe and overwhelmed,
and many houses destroyed. Total losse £3017 Us. 8d.

The disaster appears to have arisen mainly from long-accumulating
reservoirs of water in the sides of the mountain, which, yielding to the
pressure of a great and sudden flood, buret their rocky bounds, and cast
up the water, as one eye-witness describes it, to the height of an ordinary
church-steeple, bringing down loads of earth and stones, destroying
several houses entirely, and filling others with gravel to the height of
their chamber windows, so that many of the inhabitants had great
difficulty in escaping with their lives. Many notable floods have
happened in the district since then, but happily none so disastrous as
this.

The old Norman church at Kettlewell, with its deep-splayed, round-
headed windows, was removed in 1820, and the present neat edifice, built
of Whernside grit, erected on its site. All that has been preserved from
the original fabric are a few carved stones, and the curious stone font,
the latter being, it is commonly said, of Norman age. It is in the shape
of a cylinder, 8 feet in circumference, 22 inches inside diameter, and 4
inches thick, and composed of a porous grit, the texture of the stone
being such that water standing in it will soon soak through, and plainly
indicate its level on the outside. It has an aperture in the bottom for
drawing off the water, and another in the floor, so that the consecrated

335

element might sink into holy ground, but which is now piped off. The
font rests on a stout base, and is ornamented on three sides with leaves
and flowers, and on the fourth there is a curious and hardly definable
sculpture of a boar's head, with a kind of cord or muzzle round its snout.
This has never been explained, but I should think it is intended to
typify some particular deed of skill or valour by a member of the ancient
and once powerful family of Nevile, who had for a badge a wild boar's
head. After the appropriation of the church, in the year 1388, by the
commissary of Archbishop Alexander Nevile, a moiety of the manor of
Eettlewell was acquired by Ralph, Baron Nevile, first Earl of
Westmoreland/upon whom Henry VI., in the first year of his reign
(a.b. 1399), conferred the whole county and honour of Richmond for
the term of his life, along with the high office of Earl Marshall of
England. Eettlewell thenceforward by this grant became part of the
honour of Richmond, and the manor continued in the possession of the
Neviles up to the attainder of the last Earl in 1569. The Nevile badge,
if it be such, appearing here, cannot, therefore, make this sculpture on
the font older than the first Earl.

The retired glens of the Upper Wharfe are likely to have harboured
the larger kinds of wild animals as late as anywhere in England.
Payments for wolf -slaying appear in the accounts of our West Yorkshire
monasteries as late as the 14th century, and no doubt odd wolves were
found in the Craven Dales at a much later period. The wild boar was
hunted in Craven probably as late as the middle of the 17th century.
The stag, or red-deer, too, flourished in a wild state on our hills at that
time ; and the marten and skulking pole-cat have managed to escape
extinction in the unpeopled fastnesses of our Dales even down to the
present time. With respect to the great brown bear, and the fleet-footed
reindeer, an opinion has been hazarded that they continued to roam over
our north-western fells for nearly two centuries after the Roman
evacuation of Britain. It is quite certain that from the remains found
in the Craven caves the brown bear was for a very long period a common
denizen of these wilds ; the conditions of food and climate being
evidently favourable to its maintenance, for skulls and bones of this
grizzly creature have been discovered in our district of a prodigious size.
The reindeer, too, was at one time undoubtedly one of the most common
of native species, and in Scotland, at all events, over parts of Caithness,
old Norse Sagas tell us that the animal was hunted fully a century after
the Norman Conquest.

The neighbourhood of Eettlewell possesses, too, undoubted evidence
of its early occupation by man. About 2 miles to the east of the town,
at the top or north side of Scale Park, is one of the most important and
extensive earthworks remaining in the whole of this mountainous region.

336

It is in the form of a raised bank, parallel with a deep trench dug out of
the solid rock, and extends considerably over a mile, more or less
perfectly, right through Bast and West Scale Park towards Coverdale.
The work of excavating must have been of a prolonged and difficult
nature, but for what purpose such an entrenchment was intended, or by
whom constructed, it is now hard to say. There is a tradition that it
was planned to act as a defence against the attacks of the Scots, and
hence originated that part of the moor now called Scot Gate. The
probability, however, is that it is of much earlier date, and that its
origin, in part at any rate, must be referred to the period when the
Roman invaders occupied the neighbouring valley of the Yore, with a
permanent camp at Bainbridge. On the south-east side there are a
number of rough-built enclosures, each about twenty yards long, which
look as if they had been intended for sheep or cattle.

Not far away are a couple of large and interesting caverns in the
limestone, called Douk and Dove Caves. In speaking of this Douk
Cave, it should not be confounded with one of the same name in
Ingleborough, or Dowkabottom near Kilnsey, either. Douk or Dowk
(the ow is pron. as in how) is a provincialism, meaning to " duck " or
dip under, which is the natural character of the entrances to these
caverns. The two holes named are doubtless both united, and during
lead-mining operations in the district, some of the miners, I am told,
have penetrated one from the other. But their precise extent and
direction have never been ascertained, the exploration being decidedly
difficult, and, from the very rugged, wet, and rocky nature of the
channels, not without danger. All sorts of stories are current concerning
them. In Douk Cave, I have actually been told, a whole regiment of
skeletons has been found ! There is no doubt whatever that large
quantities of human bones have been discovered in the cave, and odd
fragments may even yet be picked up. It is, however, curious that no
other evidence of human occupation of the cavern has hitherto been
forthcoming. Douk Cave contains many branch passages, and several
large chambers, and may be explored a considerable way. It has a very
picturesque and spacious entrance, situated on the western buttress of
Great Whernside, and about l£ miles from Kettle well. Numbers of bats
inhabit the entrance to the cave.

The tourist, favoured with settled weather, might have a splendid
day's out by visiting Douk Cave, and ascending Great Whernside, and
then crossing the fells to Middlesmoor for Goyden Pot, &'c, at the head
of Nidderdale, a tramp of about ten mountain-miles. I have on several
occasions crossed these hills by the Great Wham between Middlesmoor
and Grassington, a wild walk of eight or nine miles without track. On
these expeditions a compass is absolutely necessary. The summit of

837

Great Whernside is 3 miles from Kettlewell, and it commands a
wonderfully grand view, extending eastwards over the Yale of York as
far as the Minster, and southwards and westwards over a vast extent of
Yorkshire and Lancashire ; the sea, however, which is so plainly visible
from Ingleborough, being shut out by Penyghent and Fountains Fell.
Northwards, the grouping of the hills is very fine.

Another expedition from Kettlewell is over the mountain to Arncliffe
by the " Slit, 91 2£ miles. From the Wharf e bridge you ascend to the
upper gate on the right, whence the path is seen making for the gap in
the scar at the top. You pass through this aperture to the summit
(1620 feet) of the watershed between the Wharf e and Skirfare. The
views up both dales, and of the hill-ranges to the west, are very beautiful,
and though somewhat similar, are not to be compared for wild grandeur
with that from the Horse Head, higher up, which I shall presently
describe.

After passing through a wood, the pretty village of Arncliffe, with
its fine old church and comfortable inn, is entered upon the highway in
lonely Littondale, anciently called Amerdale. There is a high rock here
called the Eagle's Cliff, where that large and fierce bird of prey is said
in ancient times to have built its eyrie. Indeed, the name of the place
is always said to have been derived from this circumstance, am or em
being an old word for eagle. But this explanation should be received
with some caution. Am or em in such a combination are just as likely
to imply, as they undoubtedly do in the Anglo-Saxon tongue, a dwelling
ox farm-stead by a cliff. We have Arnold, a hamlet in the parish of
Long Riston in the East Riding of Yorkshire, Arncott in Oxfordshire,
Arne in Dorsetshire, Arnesby in Leicestershire, Arnside on Morecambe
Bay, and Arnford near Hellifield, which I think are more probable to
have been derived from this source than from any supposed connection
with the eagle. However, this is but conjecture, and I shall be sorry to
rob this romantic spot of the appropriate charm that has been so long
and popularly attached to its name.

The picturesquely-seated church underwent, in 1841, a careful
restoration, and if beauty and good taste, lovingly dedicated to the glory
of the great Master, be acceptable in His eye, He should look down
benignantly upon His children here. The living of the church has been
held since 1835 by the Ven. William Boyd, M.A., late Archdeacon of
Craven, and honorary Canon of Ripon. Not alone as vicar of this
remote parish* for the long period of fifty-seven years has the Ven. Canon
been a true leader in the cause of Christian progress, but in the diocese
generally his influence and liberality have made his name known and
revered in all parts.

388

CHAPTER XXXIII.

At the Head op the Wharfe.

Starbottom — Walk to Buckden — Romantic prospects — Beautiful wood scenery —
Situation of Buckden— The meaning of Buckden — Wild deer— Buckden Hall
—The Heber family — A memorable journey— The Stake Pass, a Roman road
— Hubberholme and its ancient church— Pleasing custom— Great snow-drifts
— Why does snow remain longer in Upper Wharfedale than elsewhere ? — Over
Birks Fell — Ascent of Buckden Pike — Walden — Aysgarth — Cray Gill—
Semerwater — Langstrothdale and Chaucer — Population of the dale in A.D«
1379 and A.D. 1499— Oughtershaw — Raysgill- Over the Horse Head into
Littondale — Wonderful prospect.

HE little village of Starbottom (anciently Stanerbottom) stands
compactly at the foot of Cam Gill, a steep, winding gully
down which the oft-swollen Cam Beck descends from the
bleak heights of Starbottom Fell. From Starbottom to
Buckden, by the fields-path, 2£ miles, is a splendid walk, but it should
not be taken after much rain, as the rather strong beck from Birks
Wood is not bridged, and except in fair weather, is hardly passable.
But in dry weather, and particularly in the calm of a fine summer
evening, nothing can be more delightful than a stroll on this side of the
river to Buckden. The peat-tinged water of the gently-waving stream
sparkles in the mellow sunlight clear as sherry, and the velvety, mossed
stones in its bed look almost at the surface, but they are often yards
deep.

As we approach the romantic village the magnificent reach of
ascending forest, abounding in lovely walks and exquisite waterfalls,
reflect a hundred varying lights and shadows in the declining sun, while
far away to the north stretch the lofty summits of Buckden Gable and
the Stake, with their leafy ranges of green-wood clothing their lower
slopes. These majestic woodlands at Buckden, lately the property of
Major-General Crompton-Stansfield, who died in 1888, contain upwards
of ten miles of laid walks. They abound in beautiful glimpses of forest
scenery, and in June display over one extensive portion such a glorious
array of rhododendron bloom, that the sight and perfume, in conjunction

339

with belts of odoriferous pines, are especially touching to the olfactory
nerves, and make an impression on the beholder that is not likely to be
forgotten. These fine woods, however, are only accessible by permission
of the steward.

The approach to Buckden from this side is eminently picturesque.
The houses of this out-of-the-way little village lie closely huddled
together at the foot of a foam-white beck, that leaps in shining cascades
down the wild ravine that separates Buckden Gable from Starbottom
Fell. Whatever reasonableness there may be in the claim of this place
to be named from the beech-tree (A.S. buck or boc, a beech) the situation
and solitude of the remote glens which it guards, are decidedly
suggestive of the antlered " monarch of the mountain," which in ancient
days undoubtedly found in this neighbourhood a secure retreat. Old
Leland, writing shortly after the dissolution of monasteries, says of the
contiguous Bishopdale, " Bishops Dale longeth to the King, and yn the
Hilles about be Redde Deer. In faire Winters the Deere keepe there,
in Bhrap Winters they forsake the extreme Colde and Barennes of them."
Again he remarks, " Bishopsdale has no Corn but Deere, and very litle
or no Woode." Fallow deer still roam the Buckden woods, and in the
time of James I. deer were very plentiful in the adjoining forest of
Langstrothdale Chace, where the Cliffords had erected a keeper's lodge,
and these animals were no doubt descendants of the indigenous race
which has bred upon these western fells from the earliest times.

Buckden Hall is an ancient edifice formerly occupied by Sir John
Ramsden, Bart., from whom the estates were purchased by the late Col.
Stansfield, of Esholt. The Hebers, of Marton, were previous proprietors
for a number of years ; Richard Heber, M.A., who on the death of his
father in 1804, succeeded to the manorial titles of East and West
Marton, Buckden, Stainton, and Hartlington, as well as to extensive
properties in Shropshire and Norfolk ; was High Sheriff of Shropshire
in 1821, and M.P. for the University of Oxford. He was a man of
very versatile powers, and great scholastic attainments, and possessed
one of the finest private libraries in Europe. It numbered upwards of
200,000 volumes, including many priceless manuscripts.

One of the most distinguished visitors to this out-of-the-way spot in
olden times was, I may add, the celebrated Lady Anne Clifford, Countess
Dowager of Dorset, Pembroke, and Montgomery, daughter of the last
Earl of Cumberland, and through whom the estates descended to their
present owner, the noble lord of Skipton Castle. From her MS. Diary,
in the possession of Mr. John H. Metcalfe, of Ley burn, we gather the
following interesting reference to her " progress " through the dales, and
which appears under the date 1663. She was then in the 74th year of
her age.

340

And the 6th day of this October did I remove onwards on my journey toward!
Westmoreland, bo as I went to Mr. Cuthbert Wade's house at Kilnsey, and the next
day from thence to Ketlleweltdale up Buckden Bakes and over the Stake into
WcoBledale to my cousin Mr. Thomas Metcalfe's house at Kappa, and the next day
I went over Cotter, which I lately repaired and I came into this Pendragon's
Castle. And this was the first time I was ever in Kett! swell dale, or went over
Buckden Rakes or Stake by Wensledate or Cotter, or any of those dangerous places
wherein yet God wax pleased to preserve me in that journey.

This was certainly a bold venture for a lady verging towards four
score, and at such an uncertain season of the year. The roads in those
days were in a very different condition to what they are now, although
that over the Stake was probably in a pretty decent state of repair.

HUBBERHOLME CHURCH.

There is no doubt whatever of the antiquity of this secluded thoroughfare,
which Camden thinks was a Roman road communicating with the camp
at Bainbridge, and lower Wharfedale, or the camps at Grassington and
Ilkley. This is not improbable, although there was another Roman road
crossed Cam Fell to Ribblebead from Wensleydale to Ingle-ton and
Overborough.

The church of the parish is at Hubberholme (in Domesday written
Huburgeham), about a mile above Buckden, and it stands in one of the
most remote spots for a place of worship now existing in England. The
foundation is of high antiquity, the first church here probably having
been destroyed by the Danes. The present building contains some 12th

341

century round arches, of rough plain stone, and an early carved font,
septagonal in form, and perhaps of the same age. The south porch is
dated 1696.

The church, which was restored in 1863, contains a beautiful
memorial window, by Clayton and Bell, to the wife of Chas. H. L
Woodd, Esq., J.P., of Oughtershaw Hall,* and another, by Powell Bros.,
recently erected by the parishioners to their late incumbent, the Rev. W.
R. Metcalfe, who was 47 years minister of the parish. There are also
tablets to the families of Tennant, Ramsden, Foster, and Jaques.

Likewise preserved here are an uncommon pre-Reformation rood-loft
and screen, of beautifully- wrought oak, and which bear a short inscription,
and the date 1558. A very pleasing custom used formerly to appertain
to these ancient belongings of the church. On the death of a youth or
maiden, it was the custom at the funeral for one of the same age and sex
to carry before the corpse a chaplet and crown of white flowers, as
emblems of purity and the angel's " crown of glory," and such garlands
were afterwards taken and hung up on the rood-screen, that every one
present might be reminded of the body that passeth into nothingness,
but of the spirit that liveth for ever ! Sometimes these wreaths remained
in their places for years, until almost crumbled to dust they were
reverentially removed to decay upon the grave of the lost one. It is now
about 25 years since the last garland was taken down, where it had hung,
I am told, nearly 20 years.

In the winter 1885-6, when, owing to the accumulations of snow,
traffic in the Dale was temporarily suspended, this old church is said to
have been buried in the drifts midway up the windows. Many of the
gullies and narrow passes in the neighbourhood were choked to a depth
of thirty or forty feet, and several houses had literally to be " dug out."
A very large number of sheep perished. It is astonishing, and not quite
comprehensible, how much more the snow gathers, and how much
longer it will remain, in this district than in other parts of our dales.
In April, 1888, for example, the roads in Langstrothdale, and between
Oughtershaw and Hawes, were covered to a depth of six or seven feet,
and in not a few places they lay beneath the white pall at fully twice that
depth. The fall, it is true, had been heavy in other parts of Craven, but
nowhere was it remarked so much as here. Moreover, it is a noteworthy
fact that the winter's snow lies longer on the upper Wharfedale ranges,
and especially on Great Whernside, than anywhere else in our district.
On the south, or sunny side of the mountain just named, there were in
1888 large patches of old snow visible as late as the 2nd day of June,
while on such mountains as Ingleborough, Whernside, and Penyghent,

* For a pedigree of the family of Woodd, see Whitaker's Craven, 3rd. ed.,
page 575.

342

not a trace was to be seen.* This may be partly explained by the fact
that the western ranges are more completely exposed to the absorbing
gales from the sea, whereas these upper Wharfedale hills, while scarcely
inferior in altitude, are protected in some measure from these dedicating
winds. Probably also the extra thickness of cold grits, on which the
snow lies at the summit, may afford a part explanation. The further
east we go and the thicker these grits become. About Pateley they are
estimated at 1000 feet thick, on Great Whernside nearly 600 feet,
Buckden Pike 470 feet, Penyghent 380 feet, Fountains Fell 176 feet,
and on Ingleborough, where it dips to the north-east, it is barely 100 feet.

But to return to Buckden. The roving tourist who is fond of a
climb and the freedom of the hills, has here ample scope for the
gratification of such propensities. The walk over Birks Fell, by the
Tarn, to Litton, will take him up to a height of nearly 2000 feet. He
must cross Buckden Bridge, and in half-a-mile turn up the lane on the
left, and ascend the winding cart-road through open pastures, keeping
the shooting-house on the right, until the top is gained. The stone pike
on the summit is passed a little to the ' left, and in descending on the
opposite side, Litton and the picturesque far-extending dale will be seen
below. The Birks Tarn is ordinarily two waters, but after heavy rains
becomes one large sheet, quite a mile round. It is only shallow, and in
droughty weather a dog can wade across it ; but when the " floods are
out " it has been known to wash even over the fell top in a broad, white
sheet some hundreds of feet deep, into the hollow above the woods at
Buckden.

To ascend Buckden Gable, or Ramsden Pike, as the highest point is
called, you should go up the village and through the gate behind the
school, and forward by the road through the wood, and when at the top
go through the gate, now leaving the path, and striking up the pasture
on the right but bearing slightly to the left. It is then impossible to
get wrong. The cairn or pike is at the summit of the fence which has
a wire-rail over it, and the only wire fencing there is up here. The view
is magnificent, and similar to that from Great Whernside, but the aspects
up Langstrothdale as far as the rolling moors crossed by the Settle and
Carlisle railway, are seen to fuller advantage, and look very stern, solitary,
and grand. A rather rough descent is practicable into wild Waldeu,
(what a ring of the old Saxon forests there is in this name !) or Wassetdale

* On the morning of June 8th, 1881, Great Whernside, says Mr. John Ley land,
of Eettlewell, was completely snowed over, and the bright fleecy covering was
distinctly visible from the village. Again, on the 11th and 12th of May, 1883, an
unusual fall of snow took place, burying large numbers of sheep on Whernside and
Cam Fell, and rendering it difficult for carriers and others to get to Hawes
market.

843

to West Burton and Aysgarth, 8 miles, where the tourist will be gratified
with a sight of what most people will agree is the finest river fall in the
whole county, if not in all England.

Bnckden is an excellent centre for the mountaineer, while in the
immediate vicinity there are many lovely nooks and bits of choice
gill and beck scenery, which will afford ample enjoyment to the less
adventurous visitor in the dale. In Cray Gill there are several exquisite
waterfalls, and the wealth of ferns and mosses and wild flowers in the
woods here, adds wonderfully to their interest. From Cray it is but
a few hours 9 pleasant walk over the moors by a fair road through Raydale
to Bainbridge, or climbing the Haws, .on the opposite side of Lake
Semerwater, the little town of Hawes can be reached. This lake is the
largest in Yorkshire, and is about 3 miles in circumference, and 45 feet
deep at its deepest part. In wild weather the surface is sometimes so
much agitated that waves even seven or eight feet high have been observed
rising and crashing upon it. In the name of this lake there is, by the
way, a triple tautology, each division of the word meaning the same
thing, namely ivater. At Carr End here was born in 1712, the celebrated
Dr. Fothergill, an eminent physician who afterwards removed to London,
where he made a practice said to have been worth £7000 per annum.
The scene of Miss Fothergill's novel, Kith and Kin, is laid at Semerwater.

The finest trip from Buckden in point of wildness and stupendous
scenery, is, I think, that along the course of the Wharfe as far as
Raysgill, and over the Horse Head pass (1970 feet) to Halton Gill 5 miles,
or to Litton 7 miles. Passing the old church and inn (formerly the
vicarage) at Hubberholme, the walk hence up Langstrothdale is remarkably
fine. The isolation and seclusion are complete, and we can quite
understand how the old English dialect has continued here in its purity
down even to the present time. Had a Rip Van Winkle fallen asleep
here five hundred years since, and woke up in the present century, his
old English " twang," I opine, would have been perfectly intelligible to
the dalesfolk. But such jargon would have simply made an outsider
gape. Geoffrey Chaucer in his Canterbury Tales makes the two
northern scholars of Strother the subject of his Reeves Tale. He says :

•' Of a towne were they both that highte Strother,
Farre in the North can I nat tell where."

It is, indeed, not unlikely that these famous personages sprang from
Langstrothdale, for there are many words and idioms in the two dialects
that closely resemble each other. The celebrated Prior of St. John of
Jerusalem, John de Longstrother, to whom Chaucer refers, was in all
probability a native of this locality, and Speght, one of the early
biographers of Chaucer, was, I suspect, descended from a Craven stock.
When the poet published his Canterbury Tales, (1881), the district was

344

more populous and important than it is now. At Buckden, for instance,
according to the Poll Tax returns of 1379, there were about forty families
settled there, a large population in those days, and especially when
compared with places then hardly known and but scantily peopled, yet
which are now important and populous towns. About a century later,
(a.d. 1499), there were in Langstrothdale 64 houses, viz. : Buckden, 21 ;
Cray, 4 ; Chapel, 2 ; Kirk Gill, 4 ; Middlesmoor, 2 ; Ramsgill. 6 ;
Yockenthwaite, 6 ; Deepdale, 7 ; Greenfell, 2 ; Beckermonds, 4 ; and
Oughtershaw, 6.

A little beyond Oughtershaw the Wharfe takes its rise, and joined by
the Greenfield Beck at Beckermonds, descending from Greenfield Knott,
a bleak range to the south, the- river attains moderate dimensions, and
along a good part of its course to Hubberholme the hill sides are well
wooded, which much relieves the prospect of wildness and barrenness
apparent on their upper slopes. Ascending the road towards Raysgill,
and looking backward, the whole range of Buckden Gable is displayed,
with its three undulating summits extending from Starbottbm Fell on
the south ; but the absence of a prominent cairn at the highest point of
the Pike renders its identification from this position a little uncertain.
Limiting our prospect to the north are the lofty ranges of Cray Moss
and Oughtershaw Moss, on both of which are bleak and shallow tarns,
each about a mile in circumference. Neither of these waters, I am told,
contain fish.

Raysgill, like Raydale; above mentioned, and Raygill, the site of the
famous bone-cave in Lothersdale, mentioned in Airedale, suggests a
connection in ancient times with the rae y or roe-deer, precisely as Buckden
does of the wild stag or buck. Behind the house at Raysgill we ascend
an old grassy cart-road beside a wild, rocky ravine, bearing the ominous
name of Hag Gill, the head of which is made up of a number of wedge-
like ridges, caused by the denudation of the hard rock, from numerous
strong streams which course down them, and in flood-time leaping with
terrific violence down into the valley below. Leaving this deep gully
on our left, the path winds up and up to the top of the Horse Head
moor, — a stiff climb, but there is a road all the way, an old pack-horse
route, in fact, and one of the highest in Yorkshire. This so-called
Horse Head, though by right it should be written Hause or ffaws, is an
old and apt name, for it is all neck and head, being one continuous and
steady pull-up of nearly 1^ miles from Raysgill, with only about 50 yards
of level ground at the top, when it goes down the " head " at just as
sharp an incline, 1 mile into Littondale. Its summit forms a small
outlier of millstone grit, overlying the Main limestone.

The highest point (1985 feet) is a little north of the track, and the
view it commands is unquestionably one of the very finest to be had

345

among these upper western ranges. From no other point in oar district
are the chief Yorkshire mountains more N admirably or more picturesquely
grouped. From nowhere do we see a wilder, bolder, or more striking
assemblage of gaunt and solitary hills than from the summit of this
now almost unknown and little frequented pass. Behind us, as we came
up, there was the long " roof " of Buckden Gable, Yockenthwaite Moor,
Dodd Fell, and Wether Fell conspicuous, and now we have the whole
northern side, forming one grand chain, of Fountains Fell, with the
round, lofty, and well-placed crown of Penyghent rising above the
eastern buttress of High and Far Bargh, up which runs the white road
from Halton Gill by the Giants' Graves to Settle. Westward, the
peculiar, flat top of Ingleborough is seen with a part of Simon Fell, and
looking over the gap in Cush Knott we can descry the mammoth back
of Whernside, with Blea Moor, Wold Fell, and the depression in which
lies picturesque Dent Dale. The prospect, however, is not one remarkable
for any great extent, but is rather to be distinguished for the magnificent
array and very striking configuration of the great Yorkshire heights, and
viewed under the pageantry of a fine sunset the grandeur of the scene is
very sensibly enhanced.

846

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Littondaib. A Wild Walk.

Lonely Littondale — Grant of the valley to the Monks of Fountains — Hal ton GilF
— Chapel— Names of tenants at the Dissolution — Wild Plants — A walk between
Penyghent and Fountains Fell— Hesleden in A.D. 1540 — A Honks 1 courier —
Giants' Graves — Are they Danish 1 — Tree-burials in Denmark and in Craven —
Scottish raids after Bannockburn — Rain scar, the summit of the English
watershed— Fountains Fell — Highest cart road in Yorkshire — A wild pass —
Winter experiences.

|ITTONDALE used formerly to be called Amerdale, although
Amerdale properly is only a tributary dale. It is now one of
the most retired and beautiful valleys in Yorkshire. With
the exception of about forty acres, and pasture for 300 sheep,
granted in the time of the Percys to Sallay Abbey, the whole of Littondale
belonged to the rich monastery of Fountains. Richard de Percy, who
was one of the elected guardians of the famous Magna Charta, gave the
monks the vill of Litton, with all his bondmen there, and the valley of
Littondale, as defined by bounders.

Here the hills were grazed by extensive flocks of sheep, from
which in due season the wool was clipped, and spun and woven into cloth
by the dalespeople themselves. Spinning and hand-loom weaving in the
dale continued important industries down to the present century, but the
introduction of machinery, and the centralisation of commerce in large
towns, have almost entirely superseded such work here now, and this has
led to a thinning of the population, which for several decades past has
shewn a marked decline.

The dale head is enclosed with lofty fells, and about Foxup is so shut
in that there appears no visible outlet as we turn our face in that
direction. The first place that we come upon after descending from the
Horse Head pass is the hamlet of Hal ton Gill, with its few houses and
little chapel sweetly ensconced among fine chestnuts, sycamores, and ash
trees. There will be those who remember the old chapel here with its
massive open-timbered roof, and small bell-turret at the west end,
adjoining the minister's house. The chapel, which had been re-built in
the year 1636, was pulled down in 1847, and reconstructed in the same
style.

347

At the dissolution of monasteries the monks of Fountains possessed
10 tenements here, and the names of the tenants, with their rents, were
these : John Redman, 7s. ; Robt. Elison, 18s. ; Ewyn Franklyng, 40s. ;
Wm. Elison, 20s. ; Cristofer Prankling, SfOs. ; John Elison, 40s. ; Henry
Loge, 30s. ; Margaret Tenant, 20s. ; Alice Thornton, 20s. ; and John
Elison, 30s.

The living of Halton Gill is a perpetual curacy, and like that at
Hubberholme, is in the gift of the Vicar of Arncliffe, and has been held
since 1 881 by the Rev. W. A. Shuffrey, M.A. Mr. Shuffrey is a well-known
naturalist, and has contributed many useful notes on the wild-plants of
the district to the scientific journals of the county. He has recently
(May, 1890) discovered in Littondale that very rare and pretty wild-
geranium, the Dusky Cranes-bill (O. phaum), which does not appear
ever to have been noticed in Wharfedale before, nor, indeed, elsewhere in
Yorkshire at so high an altitude (650 feet).*

From Halton Gill Bridge the guide-post tells us it is 10 miles to
Settle, 10 miles to Hawes, and 2 miles to Litton. The first-named is a most
interesting and wild walk, or drive, over high ground between Penyghent
and Fountains Fell, through Silverdale, which we will now describe.

The tourist who has come from Hawes, or over any of the passes
from Langstrothdale or upper Wharfedale, previously described, can
obtain night accommodation at Litton, or still better at Arncliffe, where
there is a first-rate inn, the Falcon. A little beyond the last house in
Litton, a path at a stone stile shortens the way to the bridge at the foot
of Litton Brow. Ascending the mountain-road through several gates,
the open moor is reached, with Hesleden (i.e. hazel) Gill, which is on the
north-eastern edge of the old Penyghent deer-forest, deep down on the
right. In a Valuation made in 1 540 of divers lands and tenements
belonging to the lately dissolved monastery of Fountains, there are the
following interesting references to the two ancient farm-steads here of
Upper and Lower Hesleden.

Over Hbsseldbn.

Parcell of the same Manore of Litton, and of the pari she of Arnclif. The-
morez thereof he callid Heselden morez, and be the propre soyle, &c , as is above-
Maid, in Foxhop.

Richard Fawcett holdeth a Tenement called Over hesselden, with landes,
medooe. and pastors thereunto belonging, and rents by the yere, at Martyn and
Pentecost, iiij/i xllj* iiij<2.

Nether Hesselden.

Parcell of the same Manore of Litton, &c . as is abovesaid, in Overhesselden.

Henry Pudsey holdeth a Tenement callid Nether hesselden, with edificez,
landes, medoos. pastures, and commons unto the same belonging, paying therefore
yerely. at the feasts of Sanct Martyn and Pentecost. vj/i xiij* iiijrf.

* A very full account of the flowering plants and ferns of Littondale is furnished
by Mr. Shuffrey in the Natvralist, for February, 1891.

348

Richard Fawsied, an ancestor of the above-mentioned Richard
Fawcett, was a tenant of the abbot at Over Hesilden in 1455, as was
James Fawcett in 1496. Adam Fawcyd was one of the servants at the
Abbey, with 20s. wages in 1458, and a stont pedestrian and trusty man
withal he must have been, for he was often sent on long journeys, and
once was despatched to Louth Park, in Lincolnshire, to borrow money
for the convent, at the cost of 8s. 2d. He travelled to Crosthwaite, in
Cumberland, and back, at an expense of 8s. 4d. ; to Kendal, for 6s. 8d. ;
and to Stainburn, in Wharfedale, for 4d. There is a tract of country
called Fawcett, or Fawside Moor, between Penyghent and Fountains Fell.*

Penyghent now stands out grandly to the north ; the wild sweep of
moorland, and high broken range of crag upon its eastern flanks, look
vast and breezy, and make one feel that in spite of crowded towns and
congested dwellings, there is plenty of breathing room left in Yorkshire
yet. Our road skirts the northern expanse of Fountains Fell, and near
the top of the moor, 7 miles from Settle, a branch road goes down by
the lonely Penyghent House to Halton Gill, 3 miles.

Near this house are the well-known Giants' Graves, but why so-called
is not very clear, nor has any attempt been made to unravel their origin.
Whitaker thinks they are Danish, which is not improbable, although he
adduces but scant evidence, and but few particulars. He says, " The
bodies have been enclosed in a sort of rude Kist Vaens, consisting of
limestones pitched on edge, within which they appear to have been
artificially embedded in peat earth. But this substance, in consequence
of lying dry and in small quantities, has lost its well-known property of
tanning substances, for all the remains which have been disinterred from
these deposits are reduced to skeletons." But this is the language of one
who apparently never saw the " skeletons," nor yet even the spot. No
description whatever is given, and whence he obtained his information I
am unable to make out. The " sort of rude Kist Vaens " probably never
existed, and as to the " skeletons," may we not with equal shew of reason
exchange this significant substantive for " ashes " ? At any rate there
appears no authentic account of any such discovery, nor any precise
account of the plan or character of the graves and their contents.
What is left at present are a few mounds of earth, the largest, which is
divided into two, and lies north and south, measures about 28 feet by
25 feet. There is another apparent grave-mound on the east side of it,
and again to the north is an oblong excavation or trench, 7 feet wide
and nearly 30 feet long, in which several bodies or coffins may have been
deposited. Several large oblong stones lay flat upon the ground beside
the graves, but these were removed a few years ago, and degraded to the
service of gate-posts.

* Vide *' Memorials of Fountains Abbey," Surtets Soc. Pub., xlii., pp. 311, 874.

349

The position and character of the graves suggest a Danish origin^
yet I have reason to believe that not only ashes or skeletons have lain
and been found there, but that these have been enclosed within rude
whole-wood coffins, which have fallen into decay, and in all respects
resembling the ancient form of tree-burial prevalent in Denmark, and
elsewhere, examples of which have been disclosed at Rylstone, and
doubtless at other places in past times in Craven. • A large earthen
mound, similarly known as the Giant's Grave, lies just outside the walls
of Peel Oastle, in the Isle of Man, and although this is popularly,
associated with some romantic story of a human monster, of whom*
tradition even has failed to preserve any clear history, there is little doubt
but what this also is a relic of the old Norse occupation of that island.f

Just above, the road reaches the summit of the pass (1400 feet),
(which is the watershed of England), at Rainscar House, or Peter
Castle. Here, again, the old Viking turns up, for in Rainscar we have
not, as might be supposed, the name of a spot specially noted for its
rainfall, although a few experiences at this point have strongly inclined
us to such a notion, but an old Norse and Gaelic word for a promontory,
or headland. Various forms of the word, such as ren, rin, reyn, or even
run, occur among our Yorkshire hills, and in every case they are connected
with some projecting point or prominent edge, like Reinsber Scar between
Stackhouse and Stainforth, or Rainsber Scar, sometimes called Pudsay's
Leap, on the Ribble, near Bolton Hall. Thus Rainscar is simply the
scar of the summit or headland, exactly as Rinmore, in Devon, means
the great point, Penryn in Wales, and in Cornwall, the head of the

* For comparison, the reader may consult Madsen's beautifully-illustrated
work, " Afhildninger af Banska Oldsager og MindesmarJcer" from which
engravings, elucidatory of ancient Danish sepulture, have been reproduced in Sir
John Lubbock's " Prehistoric Times?

f Some may conclude that these places of ancient in terment under Penyghent
are simple memorials of the many fatal incursions of the Scots into Craven, when
the inhabitants of the district may have been surprised by the sudden appearance
of the enemy here near the summit of the pasB. The Scots, we know, after
Bannockburn, devastated Craven shockingly, wrecking the churches and houses,
carrying off the cattle, taking what men they could prisoners, and behaving in a
brutal manner to the women. It is more than probable that this was one of the
roads they took in descending upon Clapham and Settle out of Wen sley dale and
from the country to the north-east, whereas, the old historian Baker tells us, they
did much damage, committing many outrages, and whence from Ripon (where
the Mayor and Corporation had assembled, and offered them a thousand marks to
save the town from burning,) they moved on their predatory excursions into the
neighbouring dales. But neither history nor tradition associates this particular
place with the Scots, which leads us back to the belief that the graves in question
date from the period above stated.

350

point, &c. In Ireland this affix occurs frequently, and sometimes has a
g added, as in Eingfadd Point, co. Down, and Ringsend, near Dublin,
meaning the end of the point.*

From this road a stiff half -hour's up-hill walk will bring the tourist
to the top of Penyghent (2273 feet), when the descent can be made to
Horton, as elsewhere explained.

Fountains Fell (2191 feet) can likewise be readily ascended from the
same road at Rainscar, by a rise of 800 feet (in l£ miles) to the summit.
A gate will be seen on the open moor, about \ mile to the left of the
road (going to Settle), and this gate may be reached by a cart road, about
200 yards beyond where the wall begins near Dale Head House. From
the gate an old cart road winds left to the abandoned coal-pits on the
summit, and the top of this road is, I believe, the highest in Yorkshire
to which a horse and cart has ever been taken. Formerly a good deal
of coal was got on Fountains Fell, .and the summit is covered with
old coal-pits. There are several seams ranging from a few inches to 2£
feet in thickness. The bed is the same as that on Penyghent, and is
analogous to the coal of North Lancashire, while the Ingleton coal-field,
to the south of the Craven Fault, elsewhere explained, is of later origin.

Fountains Fell Tarn, on the south side of the borings, is a pretty
large sheet of shallow water lying on the grit, and in its vicinity the
now rather uncommon Parsley Fern grows in some profusion. With the
history of the Fell we will deal in the next chapter.

Our road hence to Settle calls for no lengthy remarks, as it has
already been mentioned in our account of the neighbourhood of Settle.
In descending to Stainforth, past Neals Ing and Sannet Hall, the
upturned grits of Silurian age are seen exposed in the beck courses and
At various points of the road. The rock has been thrown up by the
great Fault which passes Stainforth eastward in the direction of Malham
Tarn, and which opposes the mountain limestone, exhibited in the fine scars
of Catterick on the south side of the route.

This is a wild walk at any season. The road, I may add, runs
for some miles at an altitude of 1200 to 1400 feet, and is traversed, when
not too deep in snow, throughout the year. But the hale old carriers
between Settle and Littondale can u a tale unfold " of fearful journeys
sometimes made in the depth of winter over this desolate, sea-wide moor,
when bitter, blinding gales of snow or hail have been enough to freeze
the very life-blood, and scatter their very bodies like feathers to the
winds. However pure and bracing the atmosphere of such a locality
may be ordinarily, a man's spirits well-nigh fail him when battling with
a dazing blizzard blowing, apparently, from all quarters at once. On

* See Blackie's Place Names, 3rd edition, p. 163 ; also Moore's Surnames
and Place Navies of the Me of Man, (1890), p. 143.

851

such occasions it has been necessary to bend down and bury the face in
the coat, or cling to the shelter of a rock, in order to regain breath ;
while many a time has the snow gathered bo thick and fast that progress
with a cart has been impossible. The horse has then to be unyoked, and
the cart left behind, while an attempt has been made to lead the animal
forward, stepping boldly through the thickening storm and snow-drifts,
mid deep to the nearest house, or less exposed parte of the dale. Bnt
now there is a seven -foot high fence erected all the way on the north, or
Penyghent side of the route, so that the traveller is afforded some
protection.

352

CHAPTER XXXV.

Malham Moors and Fountains Fell.

Grant of Malham Water in a.d. 1150— Some old houses on the moors — Capon
Hall, anciently Copmanhowe — Middle House and Oliver Cromwell — Other
ancient tenements — Local possessions of Fountains Abbey — Particulars of
them at the Dissolution — Malham Tarn — A vast prospect — Tarn House —
Experiences of planting — Malham Moors in the Ice Age — Tennant Gill — Up
Fountains Fell — The View, <fcc. — Descent into Ribblesdale. *

TARTINGr from Malham it is a splendid day's out for a good
pedestrian to cross the mountain, and descend to Horton-in-
Ribblesdale, by a fair road that quits the main road between
Settle and Litton, £ mile on the south, or Settle side of
Rainscar, 6 miles from Settle, and 4 miles from Horton.

From Malham to Horton, the straight way (10 miles), is of course, by
Capon Hall and Sannet Hall, and then turning left about 100 yards to the
guide-post to Clapham (6 miles), and descending this lane to Helwith
Bridge. From Capon Hall there is an improved road by Westside
House north to Rough Close farm, which then continues by Fornah Gill
bridge up to Mr. Morrison's Shooting-house. About J mile below there
is a wonderful natural curiosity called Jingling Hole, which is a deep
vacuity in the limestone on Out Fell, or the west side of Fountains Fell.
By the route named you get on to the Silverdale road for Penyghent,
Ribblesdale, or Littondale Head, as described. Most of the roads about
here have been much improved of late years by Mr. W. Morrison, of
Tarn House, a convenience for which every traveller in this mountainous
neighbourhood must feel sincerely grateful.

Nearly all the houses about Fountains Fell, and in the neighbourhood
of Malham Tarn and the High Mark, are of old standing, being
mentioned in early charters and valuations belonging to Fountains
Abbey. The oldest seem to be Middle House, a mile north-east of
Malham Tarn, and Westside House, 2^ miles to the west of the Tarn.
The Malham Water-Houses are, no doubt, a very old settlement, as the
keepers of the monks' fisheries here would be established in the vicinity
soon after the acquisition of this valuable water from William de Percy,
founder of Sallay Abbey, about a.d. 1150. In the ClifFords' Household

853

Book there is an interesting entry, in the year 1640, of wages paid to
" R. Wiggen, keeper of Mawater Tame, for one year, iZ. xiii*." Middle
House and Westside House are mentioned in the Poll Tax rolls of a.d.
1879. Under the Malham levy we find a Willelmus de Westsydhotvse
and ux (wife), and an Adam de Medlehewe and ux ; also under Coniston
in Eettlewelldale, there appears a Ricardus de Mtdlehotvs and ux ; and
likewise under Otterburn-in-Craven is a Johannes Medylhwve and ux ;
and at Thresbfield also another Johannes Midelehowe and ux ; doubtless
all sprung from the same settlement or old home on Hard Flask.*

Capon Hall, or Capon Ha', is an ancient establishment, too, that
arose in the days of the monastery. It was formerly called Copmanhowe,
or the hill of the copman, or trader. Copeman means a chapman, and
the old Craven word coup is used in the same sense, to barter or exchange,
from the Anglo-Saxon ceapan, (*., Ceapmann), German, Kaufen («.,
Kauf mann), Swed., Kop ; Dutch, Koop ; Old English, chep or cheep.
Cheapside, for example, is etymologically, the street or place of trade.
Chapmen, or traders in merchandise, have no doubt flourished in this
district since Saxon times, f but I suspect the well-known house (now a
farm) of Capon Hall was built by some shrewd tradesman who had
many a profitable bargain with the old monks, whose numerous well-fed
flocks grazed the adjoining pastures, and who had often, in fair weather
and foul, trudged the old packman's route this way between Settle and
Malham and Wharfedale. The house is called Capon Hall so far back
as 1550, as appears in the Will of one Roger Benson, then the owner.
It reads : " In the name of God, amen. At Caponhaull opon Malham
More, the xxviij. daye of July, in the yere of oure lord God MDL. I
Roger Benson of the same, hooll of mynd and seike in my bodie, make
my testament and last will in maner and forme foloyng," &c J

* There is a local tradition that it was at Middle House that the famous
marriage of Martin Enowles and Dorothy Hartley was privately celebrated by
Oliver Cromwell in person, the entry of which, attested by Cromwell, appears in
the Kirk by Malham Church Register, for January 17th, 1655. A bitter time of
the year, indeed, for the great Protector to be in the wilds of Craven 1

f The earliest occurrence of the name, locally, which I have discovered, is in a
Renunciation by Thomas, son of Henry Cupman, of three oxgangs of land in
Giggleswick, in Craven, made to the Prior of Finchal, in A.D. 1279. Thus Cupman,
or Chapman, is a very old local name. In Giggleswick Churchyard, 1 may here
mention, lies a Robert Chapman, who was one of the survivors of the Balaklava
" Six Hundred, 1 ' and who died at Settle in 1884.

There was another place called Copmanhowe, consisting of two houses, near
Brimham, also the property of Fountains Abbey.

% Regtib. Test. Mor., vol. xiii., f. 660 ; Surtee* 8oc. Pub., xlii., p. 370, where
the will is printed. " Caponhawe " was sold by the Bensons to George, Lord
Clifford, Earl of Cumberland, in the 34th Elizabeth (a.d. 1601).

854

Between Capon Hall and the Tarn are two farmhouses marked on
the Ordnance Maps Higher Tarn Ho. and Lower Tarn Ho., but they are
always spoken of as the Train Houses, and in old documents belonging
to Fountains Abbey, the former owners, the word appears to be invariably
written, Trane, Treyne, Tren, and the like. Whether it comes from the
Danish or Icelandic Tiom, whence our Tarn, or from the old horse-
training course on the Streets between the two dwellings, I am unable to
say, but in Owen's Welsh dictionary, Tran is given as a space, a stretch,
a district, and Teyrn as a king.

To the north of the Tarn, and under Fountains Fell, is Tennant
Gill Farm. This messuage, recently improved, was built some centuries
ago by the Tennants, an old and well-to-do family, of whom we have
previously spoken. In 1602, by fine passed in that year, the house,
with lands there and in Malhamdale, was sold by a member of this
family, Henry Tennant, to one William Anderton.*

In a Survey of the several lordships, manors, lands, tenements, &c,
formerly belonging to Fountains Abbey, and taken shortly after the
Dissolution, there are many interesting particulars relative to the houses
and their tenants on these wild, out-of-the-way moors, which may
fittingly find a place here. The Record is copied from a paper roll in
the possession of the Rev. H. J. Ingilby, of Ripley Castle, with additions
from the records of the Court of Augmentations, in the Public Record
Office, (Particulars for Grants, Qresham, Sec. 5), and indicated in the
subjoined text by enclosure within brackets. The rolls were first printed
in the 42nd volume (1863) of the Surtees Society's Publications (edited
by Mr. Walbran) ; the transcript being as follows :

Maneeium sive Dominium de Malham.

This a Manore ; and all the waste grounds and mores callid Mai ham morez he
the propre soyle of the same late Monastery, and he of the parishe of Kirkby-in-
Malham dale, and contenyth, withe the membres and parcellsin this book specified,
all the hole maner, lands, tenements, and hereditaments.

Item, the heires of John Yonge for Nappy lands, ij#. ; the heires of Henry
Preston, v\d. ; the late monistery of Bolton, xviijd. ; and the heires of Thomas
Tempest, knight, xijd. ; and lands and tenements in the holdinge late of John
Lawson, xviij*. ; Cristofer Lawson, xx*. ; Kateryn Atkinson, xx*. ; Stephyn Fisher,
xxx*. ; Richerd Hap ton, x*. ; William Knoll, vj*. vi\]d. ; John Thomson, iij*. ;
Henry Slater, v*. ; John Serjantson, xj. ;f William Arton, xiiji. iiijrf. ; Reginald
Brashey, xv* v]d. ; Thomas Deane, xv*. yjd ; John Atkinson, xx*. ; Re. Smythe,
xxxiij* iiijrf. ; Re. Preston, xxxiij*. ilijd. ; William Windsor, xxxiij*. ni)d. ; Miles
Knoll,J xl«. ; and j cotage there, boylded upon the wast nere the chapell there, xxd. ;
a garthe, some tyme in the holdinge of John Lawson, xxrf., and the common of
pastore unto the same garth belonginge, xx/Z. ; in all xvjZt. xvijx.

* See Yorkshire Fines in the Record Series, vol. viii., p. 183.

+ In 1361, Richard Serjauntson held a cottage of the abbot at Malham, at the rent of 2s. 6d. —
Reg. Bent., f. 188. In the Rental of 1367, he is called Bcherlantson.— Ibid, f. 102. Of some
descendants of this family, see Whitaker's Craven, p. 193.

of 10s. and 2d. for boon days. William Atkinson was then a tenant at Malham.

355

Malhom Morez.

Belonging to the same late Monastery there, and he conteyned in thin valew.

Item, ther he iij Shepegats upon the morez callid Malhom morez, that is to
say : At Lankareide for a flok of shepe in somer, v*. At Cogill Cote, for a wedder
Hok in somer, v#. And at Chapell house, for a wether flock in somer, v*. ; whiche
he worth by the yere, in all. late in the hands of the Monastery, xv*.

[The reste of the Manor of Malholm, fargell of the Manor of
Malham and of the same Parish of Kirkeby-in-Malhamdale.

Newhouv*

Item, ther he ij Tenements late in the holding of Jaffray Proctourf and John
Wallok, with lands, medoos, pastors, comons, and wastes ther unto belonging, and
rents by the yere, lx*.

Rugheclou.

Item, a Tenement in the holding of Jeffrey Proctor, with lands, medoos,
pastors, commons, and wastes therunto belonging ; by yere, xx*.

Hawthorn Leyse.

Item, ther be ij Tenements called Cogilhouse, otherwise Hawthorn leyse, in the

holding of John Thomson and Henry Thomson, with lands, medooB, pastors,

comons, and wastes therunto belonging ; by yere, xxvj#. viijrf.

cvj*. viiji.

Jakes Rokeby.]
Mallwaterhouse.

Parcell of the said Manore of Malham, and of the same parishe of Kirkby-in-
Malhamdale.

Mathew Toller and Thomas Toller holdeth a Tenement or Lodge ther, callid
Mall waterhouse, with edificez, landes, tenements, medoos, and pasture therunto
belonging, and rente th by yere at Marten and Pentecost, liij*. iiijrf.

Item, ther is a Shepegate upon the common morez in somer for a wether flok,
and a yowflok, whiche is worth by yere, late in the handes of the Monastery
afforesaid, x».

Ixnj*. mja.

Tranehouse and Tranehull House.

Parcell of the said Manore of Malham, and of the same parishe of Kirkby-in-
Malhamdale.

Thomas DeaneJ holdeth a Tenement there, with the edificez called Tranehouse,
landes, medoos, and pastores therunto belonginge ; and rentithe by yere, at the
feests of sanct Martyn in wynter and Pentecost, xxvijj.

* New-house does not appear in the Rental of 1496.

t Jeff rey Prok tour held this tenement in 1406. According to a Genealogy, illustrated by
armorial impalements, which was placed in one of the windows of Fountains Hail, by Sir Stephen
Proctor, in the time of King James L, this family derived its descent from " Sir Oliver Mirewraye,
of Tymbridge, in the countie of Kent ; " the reason of a change of surname being perhaps
suggested by the further statement that *' Thomas Mirewray, als. Proctor, of Frierhed. mar. Mary,
daughter of Thomas Proctor, of Winterborn." Both these places are in the parish of Gargrave,
adjacent to that of Kirkby-Malhamdale, and were formerly among the possessions of the abbey of
Furness, in Lancashire.— Val, Eccl,, vol. 6, p. 270.

$ Symon de Dene and William de Dene each held a toft and an oxgangof land at Malham.
" in bundagio," at the rent of 6s. in the year 1816. — Reg. Kent. fol. 67. William de Dene ana
William de Dene, junior, had similar holdingp, in 1340.— Ibid, fol. 114. In 1861, William de Dene
held a messuage and fifteen acres of land in Arncliffe, at the rent of 20s. with three boon days.—
Ibxd, f . 186. In 1408, Agnes, daughter and heir of Nicholas Yong, demised her lands in Litton,
for the term of ninety-six years, and gave the reversion to Sir John Deen, Canon of the Collegiate
Church of Ripon, and John Mynton, chaplains. The compiler of the President book of Fountains,
however, remarks, " auod isti capellani sunt bastardi ;" and that, on their decease, their interest
must revert to the chief lords of the fee, as an escheat. — Pre*. Book, p. 125.

856

Miles Knoll holdeih a Tenement ther, with edificez callid Tranehoase-hull,
with lands, medoos, and pastores therunto belonginge, and renteth by yere,

liij*. injtf.

Item, ther is a Shepegate upon the common morez there, lyeng nere Fontaunce
Fells, for a wedder flok in somer, which were in the hand of the late Monastery ;
by yere, v#.

t • • * * • • • • 9

lllj/t. V*. llljtf.

Modo in seperalibus tenuris Thorn a Deane , R Knoll, et Agnetis Knoll vidua.

COPMANHOWB.

Parcell of the said Manore of Malham, and of the same parishe of Kirkby-in-
Malhamdale.

Thomas Benson and Richerd Peycok hold a Tenement ther, with edifices,
landes, tenements, medoos, and pastores therunto belonging, and renteth by yere,

liij*. nija.
Modo in tenura Rogeri Benson,* Isabella Carre, et Henrioi Peycok.

Westesyd House.
Parcell of the said Manore of Malham, and of the same parishe of Kirkhy-in-
Malhamdale. .

Richerd Tollerf holdeth, and Richerd Wharf, a Tenement callid Westsidehouse,
with the edificez, landes. medoos, and pastores therunto belonginge, and renteth
by yere, att Martyn and Pentecost, equally, xlvj*. viijrf.

Modo in tenura Thoina Tollere, Milonis Toller, et Edmund i Wharf.

Malham Water Tern.
Parcell of the same Manore of Malham, and of the same parishe of Kirkby-in-
Malhamdale.

The Fishing within a Tern there, callid Mai horn water Tern, late in the handes
of the said Monastery, and is worth by the yere vj«. viijti.

FRONOIL HoUSE.J

Parcell of the same Maner of Malham, and of the same parishe of Kirkby-in-
Malhamdale.

Qeorge Sikeewik holdeth a Tenement there, with the edificez, lands, medoos,
and pastores therunto belonging, and rentith by the yere, at the Feasts of Sanct
Martyn and Penthecost, equally, xxiij*. u\)d.

Modo in tenura Alicia Sikeswik vidua.

Item, ther is a Shepegate upon the common morez, the nere Fontaunce Fells,
for a wedder flok in somer, and wynter, late in the handes of the said Monastery,
and is worth by yere, v]s. vi\]d.

Item, ther be certen Grounds inclosed whiche were late in the handes of the

said Monastery ther, over and besides the premissez, whiche be worth by the

yeare, xxxvj*. viijrf.

lxvj*. riljd.

• In the year 1361, the abbot of Fountains had three tenants of this surname. John Benson,
who had held at 8wintoc, near Masham, from or before 1348.— Reg. Bent, N. 178. Thomas Benson,
who for some time had held an oxgang at Sainton, near Topcliffe, ( Ibid, fol. 206), and William,
son of Richard Benson, a freeholder at Rigton, in Wharfdale.— Ibid, fol. 175. A family of this
name also were tenants under the House in Nidderdale for a long time, and perhaps Thomas
Benson, who appears in the Rental of 1496 as the tenant of a moiety of Copmannowe, was one of
them, Roger Benson, who succeeded him, died in 1650.

t Thomas Toller held of the Convent in Arncliffe in 1836.— Reg. Rent, f. 110. Miles Tollar
one of the abbot's shepherds at Hayshay house, in Nidderdale, in 1480, and several members of
that family were similarly occupied about the same time. Many of the abbot's shepherds were
Craven men.

X Called Fornagilhous in the Rental of 1496, when George Sigesweke held a mediety of that
Lodge. Ralph Sigeswike was the abbot's shepherd at Haddockstone, near the monastery, and
George 8igeswike at Appelgarth, in 1480.

-n

857

Debnebbuk*
Parcel 1 of the same Manore of Malham,and of the same parishe of Kirkby-in-
Malhamdale.

Item, ther be iij Tenements in Dernbruk with ther appurtenaunces, wherof one

is in the late tenure of Thomas Buk, xxxiij*. iiij<£. ; one in the tenure of Robert

Buk, ixij*. i]d. ob. ; and Rauf Buk, xj«. \]d. ; in all by yere, lxvjx. viijrf.

Item, ther is a Shepegate upon the common morez of Dernbruk for a wedder

flok in somer, which in wynter wer wont to goo att Boiler shatt. v*.

lxxj*. x'rijd.

Mo do in tenura Gregory Buk, Agnet. Buk, James Buk, Margaret Buk, and

Bad' hi Buk.

Midlow HouaK.f
Parcell of the same Manore of Mai ham, and of the same parishe of Kirkeby-
in-Malholmedale.

Richerd Broun holdeth a Tenement ther, with lands, medoos, and pasture

therunto belonging, and rentith by the yere, at Marty n and Pentecost, xx#.

Item, ther is a pastore for shepe, at the saide Midlowhouse, late in the hands of

the said house, and is worth by yere, xxvj*. viijd.

xlvj#. viijd.

Modo in tenura Juhannix Brouue et Christoferi Broune.%

When the days are hot and cloudless there is always a delightful
feeling of freshness and freedom in the neighbourhood of the Tarn.
The great expanse of radiant water, covering over 150 acres, reflects the
pure azure of the sky bright and fair as that on Oomo, and strongly
tempts you to throw yourself down in a do-nothing sort of way upon its
murmuring, pebbly banks, just as you would npon the shingle or sand
by the lapping sea. Just below the Tarn the stream sinks into the
fissured limestone, to tumble away through many a chink and unknown
cavern, until it emerges once more into daylight at Aire Head, and at
the foot of that stupendous wall of time-shattered rock, — the Cove.

In viewing the open land round about the Aire Sinks, you are almost
overcome by the aspects of sublime vastness, and the feeling arises how
insignificant a thing you are among all these thousands of rolling acres,
where Time and Life seem as nothing, and where the immensity of the
eternal landscape seems only comparable with the spread of the boundless

* The family of Dornbrook, of Bewerley, &c, derived its name from a valley watered by the
Dernbrook, one of the tributaries of the Skirfare, which rises in the hilly country in the parish of
Malliam in (Graven, intervening between the heads of the rivers Wharf and Kibble. The first
footing which the abbot ami convent of Fountains obtained here, was when Maud Countess of
Warwick granted to them, " Pasturam per totum Gnup et Dernebroc," in the twelfth century
{R'gist. de Cmvm, fol 61) ; but I find no account of their disposition of the property, which was
subsequently enlarged, until the year 1861, when it was in the tenure of a family whose name has
never since been absent from the records of the franchise. In the rental of that year it is set
down, under Dernbrochous, " Willielmus de Dernbrok tenet logeam ibidem ; reddit per annum
law," {R'gjtt. Rmt.,to\ 177), and again, under Arnclyf, "Willielmus de Dernbrok e tenet unum
croftum, iij acras terrte ; reddit per annum vj*. et iij precarias."— IhUl, fol. 177, 187, 218. We
have also a glimpse of his character, in an extiact from one of the manor rolls, " Quod Willielmus
Dernbruk fecit flnem pro venatione in le Fell."— Ibid , 28.

+ John Brown kept the abbot's sheep at Mydlohous. in 1480, when he answered for two
hundred, three score, and fifteen wethers, and three score hoggs. — Comp. Stauri, p. 51.

t In 1496, they paid xx«. each.

358

heavens above ! The prospect, indeed, is one which moves the
imagination more than it does the eye, for the latter is nnable to grasp
and compass the infinitude of objects comprised within such a majestic
scene. In a single "field" here, I am told that 15,000 head of cattle
have been known to be grazing at the same time, and then hardly one
could be seen ! The person perhaps shut his eyes ; anyway, the statement
is an obvious exaggeration, yet it would be no difficult task, we should
think, to camp the standing armies of Europe on this vast upland solitude !

On leaving the Tarn to the right, the road runs to the Higher Train
House, and Capon Hall is then seen some little distance away on the
left of it. On coming to the guide-post to Settle, Malham, and
Grassington, you follow the lane close by the Train House, which runs
into a cart-road across the open field, and enters the well-kept carriage
road to Tarn House, the large and beautiful seat of Walter Morrison, Esq.,
M.P., J.P., and who in 1883 held the important office of High Sheriff
of the county. The mansion was built about a century ago by Thomas
Lister, Esq., M.P., first Lord Ribblesdale, and is admirably placed in the
screen of luxuriant plantations that rise from the north shore of the
spacious lake, and at an altitude of a little over 1300 feet above the sea.

The estate was bought by the father of the present owner in 1851, since
which time a great many improvements have been carried out. In
planting, for example, large sums have been expended from time to time,
which has been a rather costly experience, the owner having only been
able to discover, after repeated trials, what sorts would succeed. Since
Mr. Morrison acquired the estate, I am told that at least half-a-million
trees, in perhaps fifty kinds, have been planted under various conditions
and by various methods, and out of these probably not more than 50,000
are alive. The locality does not seem suited either for larches or Scotch
firs, while sycamores, beeches, birches, alders, thorns, wych elms, ashes,
rowans, and willows, will grow, but exceedingly slowly. Laburnums, lilacs,
and Alpine rhododendrons, however, do very well. The best chance
seems to be to raise them from the seed on the spot, as trees imported
from nursery gardens appear incapable of adaptation to the cold of these
high moors. Gooseberries, strawberries, and currants, moreover, will not
ripen anywhere here, except in very hot seasons. The gardens, however,
around the house look nicely stocked with a variety of hardy shrubs and
flowering plants, amongst the latter may be observed the curious ash-
white rays of the Edelweiss, the national flower of Switzerland, and a
native of the High Alps.

The tarn has been undoubtedly once much larger and deeper than it
is now. The deepest part is only 15 feet, and about 5 feet of this
depth are due to an artificial embankment, constructed by the first
Lord Ribblesdale, and since rebuilt. Malham Moor, in the Ice Age, was

859

a vast gathering-ground of glaciers, on which snow was perpetually
falling and congealing, and on the melting of the ice-sheet the water
must have covered the whole of the pooly, black moss on the north-west
side, and must also have raised the level of the present expanse much
above what it is now. Many pools and swamps also occupied the hollows
in the surrounding land, which have since disappeared by the process of
denudation in the limestone. When the tarn was first stocked with fish
is not known, but that it contained fish early in the 12th century is
evident by the terms of the original grant of the water by the younger
Percy, as before stated, to the monks of Fountains Abbey :

Sciant omnes, etc. quod ego Will'mus de Perci, d. c. et present i carta mea*
confirmavi Deo fit S'ctse Marise et Monachis de Fontibus (inter alia) Malewater, et
piscariam in eadem aqu&, in puram et perpetuain eleemosinam.*

A little beyond where the carriage road divides, behind the tarn, you
open a gate and follow the road to Water Houses, which are mentioned
in the Fountains Abbey rolls, before quoted. The road hence is good
and well-maintained right away on by the Stangill Barn and the
plantation. At the finger-post for Arncliffe and Settle you leave the
main road, and strike up the cart-road which runs between a couple of
large, fine trees, (for such an elevation — 1500 feet) to Tennant Gill farm.t
From this point Great Whernside looms up very prominently in the gap
to the south-east, and the surrounding scenery is altogether of a very
wild, lonely, and impressive character.

You now leave the last bit of " civilisation " behind, and passing to
the rear of the house ascend the cart-road about 300 yards until you are
well within sight of the two cairns on Thoragill Fell. A wall runs up
conspicuously between them to the top, and it is desirable to take the
rough track near the wall-side on the right, and keep this guide to the
top. The long summit of broken, weathered grit, strikes away to the
right, with patches of heath and grass, plentifully interspersed with the
clustering leaves of the cloud-berry. And now looking back to the
south, you see the whole of Malham Tarn, shining like a silver cloud on
the lofty plain it occupies, while far beyond stretch moor and mountain
to the familiar cones of Flasby Beacon, and the dim hill-bounded
horizon of more distant Lancashire. Seawards giant Ingleborough
bares his head to the clouds, while near us the stern and portly front of
old Penyghent stands like a guardian-sentinel on the opposite side of
the pass. You descend now to Silverdale Head for Settle or Litton, as
described.

* Dodftworth's MSS., Vol. iz. fol. 206.

f There is another and shorter way to Tennant Gill from Malham, by ascending
the pass across the Prior Rakes, and on the east side of the tarn to the Water
Houses.

360

CHAPTER XXXVI.

About Hellifield.

Malham to Hellifield — Domesday record — Meaning of Hellifield — The Ings —
Anciently an arm of the sea — Discovery of whale bones— History of the manor
— Hamerton family — Hellifield Peel — Swinden — Disused coach-road — Old
corn-mill — Walk to Gargrave.

ROM Malham we will return to Otterburn, whence it is but a
short walk of 2 miles by the large prehistoric grave-mound
or barrow, previously described, to Hellifield.
Hellifield, says Dr. Whitaker, is the field of Heigh, its Saxon owner.
But the Saxons, as appears in Domesday, called it Helgefelt, or Helgefiet :

Manor. In Rodemare (Rathmell) Carl had two carucates to be taxed. In
Winchelesuunie (Wigglesworth) ten oxgangs. In Helgefiet (Hellifield) two
carucates and a half.

Such is the record in that ancient testimony, Hel, Helge, and Helig,
have the meaning, in the language of the ancient Teutons, of holy, as in
Heligoland, i.e. the holy isle, — German heilig. This may, therefore, be
the holy field* or if we are to interpret the last portion of the word as
flet, Teut. fieot, — a flush of water, or arm of the sea on which vessels may
float, as in Fleetwood^ we may assume it to mean the site of the holy
or sacred marsh, stream, or estuary. The low, flat lands that expand
hence to the Wigglesworth and Long Preston Ings, around the Ribble

* But if this be objected to, perhaps we can discover an interpretation in the
Saxon Halgh, Scottish Ilaugh or Heugh, a flat, spungy piece of ground between
hills or on the banks of a stream. But in England, haugk or how, as Miss Bfackie
observes, come more frequently from the Scand. haugr, a heap or mound often
raised over a grave, like the cairns in Scotland. Whitaker, in his History of
Whalley (1818), p. 36, gives three instances in which it is compounded with
personal names, as Dunkenhalgh, Pouthalgh, Hesmondhalgh, and three others in
which the local word united with it plainly indicates its meaning, as Aspenhalgh,
the halgh (or mire) of aspens, Hidyhalgh, the halgh of reeds, and Beckshalgh, the
halgh by the brooks, the last immediately north of the Ribble, which accounts for
its combination with Beck.

f See Blackie's Place Xante* t p. 81.

361

and adjacent tributary becks, have no doubt at one time been wholly
covered with water, and even yet, on occasions of but moderate floods,
passengers on the railway may perceive a succession of large, shallow
meres, with cattle beside them splashing in the wet meads, and extending
over the wide bottoms for a good square mile below Hellifield station.
After continued rains these spreads of water have the appearance of
permanent lakes, and often attract numbers of sea-birds. It is, therefore,
likely, as the old Domesday name suggests, that this was a permanent
flush or fleet* before the land was drained, and in very remote times, an
elbow or arm of the sea. #

The old history of Hellifield is in the main the history of the
Hamertons, of Hellifield Peel. The earliest mention of the family
occurs in the 26th Henry II. (a.d. 1170), when a Richard de Hamerton
paid a fine of half a mark. The manor was originally held by its mesne
lords, the De Knolls, of the knights of St. John of Jerusalem, but about
the end of the reign of Edward III., a matrimonial alliance having been
formed between the heiress of Elias de Knolle and Adam, son of John
de Hamerton, the manors of Knolsmere, Wigglesworth, and Hellifield
Peel, descended to this family. Lawrence Hamerton, of Hamerton, son
of Richard, son of the above Adam, obtained in the 19th Henry VI.
(1440-1) royal licence to fortify and embattle his manor of Hellifield,
and in consequence of this specific grant he erected the strong, sturdy
and compact building known as Hellifield Peel. This Lawrence
Hamerton, who is buried in the south choir of Long Preston Church,
married a daughter of Sir John Tempest, of Bracewell, Kt., by Alice,
daughter of Richard Sherburn, of Stonyhurst, Esq., and left a numerous
family. His eldest son was Sir Richard Hamerton, who married
Elizabeth, daughter of Sir John Assheton, of Assheton-under-Lyne,
Knight of the Bath at the coronation of Henry IV. He died in 1480,
leaving his son, Sir Stephen Hamerton, heir to a vast property.

Sir Stephen married a daughter of Sir William Plumpton, of the old
family of Plumpton, near Knaresborough, whose son, John Hamerton,

* Since the above was written I have received an important communication
from the Rev. W. S. Sykes, of Sheffield, formerly of Rathmell, in apparent
-confirmation of this. He tells me that about 30 years ago a perfect vertebra of a
whale (now in his possession) was taken out of the river gravel in the valley
bottom, about a mile to the west of Hellifield. A man named Luke Bullock, who
was at that time gamekeeper in Rathmell, saw the bone dug out with fragments of
many others, while some draining was going ou in Wigglesworth Ings. The bone
measures 18£ inches long, 11£ inches deep, and is 2£ inches across the spinal
hollow, where it is 4 inches thick. Its weight is 4 lbs. 15 oz As there appears
to have been a group of bones found together, it is very probable that the animal
was washed up by sea-tides when the Ings was an estuary. The spot is in the
Ribble basin, and is now over 20 miles from the Ribble estuary.

362

of Hamerton and Wigglesworth, Esq., # married a daughter of Sir Geoffrey
Middleton, of Middleton Hall, co. Westmoreland, elsewhere mentioned.
This John Hamerton, as appears by an Inquisition p.m. y taken at Ilkley,
April 14th, 1516, was found to have been seized in demesne, as of fee,
of the manors of Hamerton, Knolsmere, Wigglesworth, Hellifield, and
Langfield, and of the third part of Eishworth, &c, besides lands in
Slaidburn, Newton, Settle, Pheser, Calton, and Coniston-Cold. He was
father of the celebrated but unfortunate Sir Stephen Hamerton, Kt.,
who, attainted with many others of high treason through allying himself
with the disastrous Pilgrimage of Grace, was *' drawn, hanged, and
quartered " at Tyburn, and the whole of his estates were in consequence
forfeited to the Crown, 28th Henry VIII. (a J). 1537).f

Hellifield, as it happened, was preserved by a settlement for the life
of the widow of John Hamerton, who was the mother of Sir Stephen.
Subsequently, 7th Edward VI., the manor passed, by licence, to Sir Arthur
Darcy, Kt., the grantee of Sallay Abbey, and who already owned large
estates in Craven. He, again, suffered an alienation of the manor
(2nd and 3rd of Philip and Mary) to John Kedman, Esq., father of
Francis, who had married Margaret, daughter and co-heir of Henry,
son of the attainted Sir Stephen Hamerton, and by fine levied at
Westminster, 3rd Elizabeth, (1561), the said John and Francis, and
Margaret, wife of Francis, in conjunction with Anthony Watson, Thomas
Watson, and Alice, his wife, passed the manor to John Hamerton, Esq.,
son of Richard, younger brother of Sir Stephen, by which arrangement
it returned once more to the Hamerton family, and to whom it still
belongs. %

Hellifield Peel, now the seat of Frank J. Bright, Esq., a nephew of the
late eminent politician Mr. John Bright, occupies a verdant and level mead,
about half-a-mile to the south of the village. Erected just five and a
half centuries ago, it is probably, with the single exception of Bolton
Hall, the. oldest entire mansion now remaining in Craven. The
building is in form quadrilateral, and has been protected by a deep
and broad moat, which is still perfect. There are three stories, with
embattled parapets, and walls of great thickness, and doubtless from
the plainness of the structure, its great strength, and comparatively

* He died September 20th, 1515. For a copy of his will, dated 1513, see Vol.
Ixxix, page 45, of the Surtees Society's Publications.

f See Svrtees Society's Publications, Vol. 42, page 273.

\ Sec Whitaker's Craven, 3rd ed., p. 118; Yorkshire Uncord Series. Vol. iii.
p. 112. For Pedigrees of the family of Hamerton down to 1870, see Foster's,
Yorkshire Pedigrees, Vol. i., (1874) ; Whitaker's Craven, 3rd ed., p. 150 ; also
Dugdale's Visitation of Yorkshire, by Surtees Society, Vol. xxxvi., p. 354. For
Index to Hamerton Wills and Administrations- on record in the P P. C, Somerset
House, London, see Turner's Yorkshire. Genealogist ', Vol. i. (1888), pp. 84-6.

863

email size, it was intended for use only as a fortified retreat in disturbed
times. The original owners up to the attainder of Sir Stephen Hamerton,
in 1537, lived in great splendour at the neighbouring Wigglesworth
Hall. The mansion, however, has since undergone some restoration and
improvement, and though still retaining its ancient features, has now
more of the appearance of a retired country seat, than of an old war-proof
stronghold or barrack-house as it must have been. Pleasant gardens
and luxuriant foliage brighten the surroundings, and there are all the
usual modern outbuildings &c, that belong to a large private residence.
On one of these, — the gardener's house, — there is built into the front
an ancient well-cut stone, bearing a portion of a Latin inscription, and
also another stone having the initials and date D. I. A., 1694, which are
said to have come from an old house at Swinden, pulled down six years
ago. Another stone with a defaced inscription, brought from Sallay
Abbey, is built into the servants' hall, or new end of the house. On
the south lawn there are two large stones inscribed with the arms of
Hamerton (three hammers), also from Sallay Abbey. Near them is an
old sun-dial, and another stone which, it is supposed, once supported an
astronomical telescope. A few years ago, when the house was being
repaired, an ancient walled -round well was discovered beneath the flags
of what is now used as a coal-cellar. It was probably the chief source of
water supply to the inmates in a time of siege. It is said that during
several occasions of war and panic, the old Peel has been hung round
with wool-packs, as a protection against shells.

A pleasant walk by Hellifield Peel to Gargrave may be had by way
of Swinden, above mentioned, and Bank Newton. The distance is about
7 miles. You follow the Gisburn road from Hellifield, about \ mile, to
Pan Beck farm, opposite which, on the left, an old road runs up over
Goose Mere Height, and by a thorn hedge through the fields to Swinden.
This was the old coach-road from Clitheroe and Gisburn to Hellifield
and the north, which joined the present highway near the Pan Beck
farm-house, but it is now open field, and one can hardly believe, from
present appearances, that it has been traversed by ponderous coaches in
the old days. The Leeds and Kendal coaches also passed through the
village at the same time, where they pulled up at the Black Horse. This
inn, by the way, which has lately been rebuilt, is an old and increasingly
valuable property of the Gargrave Charity Trust.

Just below the Pan Beck Barn a small bridge crosses the stream, near
which, and close under the plantation, stood the ancient Hellifield
corn-mill, but not a vestige of it has been seen these sixty years. The
Canons of Bolton had the mill at one time, with the tithe of corn. They
had also the tithe of corn at Wigglesworth.*

* See Burton's Monastic on, pp. 117 and 120.

864

The walk hence through the " deserted village " of Swinden, and by
way of Bank Newton to Gargrave, is very pleasant. In the genial days
of summer, when the luxuriant hedgerows dismantle themselves of their
Been ted May-dress, and

Jolly June array'tl
All in green leaves, as be a Player were,

steps lightly in, the ground is a perfect nosegay. Bonny wild roses,
" tiptoe upon hawthorn stocks," fling their delicate fragrance from
the swelling hedge-banks, where the tall vetches, pink valerian, and
creamy crowns of sweet cicely beneath, disport themselves in delightful
contrast with the fragile-leaved blossoms of the purple cranes-bill and
spikes of golden agrimony. The air is redolent of many sweets, while
bloom and beauty are everywhere.

365

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Long Preston.

Old coach-road — Well-to-do aspects of Long Preston — The late Mr. John Thompson
— Saxon Church — Domesday record— The manor — History of the Parish
Church — Ancient rectory house — Description of interior of church— Interesting
memorials — Early font — Marks of fire — Cromwell House — The parish registers
—Plague at Long Preston — Local tradition — Churchwardens* accounts —
Ancient sun-dial — Beacon Coppy — Charity Hospital — School— Old mills —
Local possessions of the monks — Citation of charters— Lambert family —
Curious discovery of gold— Long Preston Peggy— The story of her adventures
— Fragments of old ballad.

HE quiet and respectable village of Long Preston, which
extends a good half-mile along the Settle road, 4£ miles from
that town, has a very pleasing and well-to-do appearance.
Edward Dayes, in his Picturesque Tour (1803), describes it
as "an opulent place, where the people appear cheerful, their houses
clean, and everything carries with it an air of comfort." He also adds,
" great quantities of calico are made here." When the Leeds and Kendal
coaches passed through the village, they went by the old road at the
high end, and over Long Preston Moor, — a very bad route in boisterous
weather — and so into Upper Settle.

The houses mostly are comparatively modern, and look neat and
good ; many of them being the property of their occupants, — retired
farmers and other families of independent means. There are nice, open
places, here and there planted, trim flower-gardens 1 , and on the spacious
green, opposite the Eagle inn, the Holgate Memorial Fountain (1869) is
a conspicuous attraction. There are two good inns, the Boar's Head and
the Eagle ; a Conservative Club ; several chapels — that belonging to
the Wesleyans is now being re-built at a cost of over £3000 ; and a
capital Village Institute with a library of 3000 volumes. The latter
establishment owes its existence and prosperous career in great measure
to the untiring efforts of the late Mr. John Thompson, of Kirkmangate,
by whose recent death (in Nov., 1891), at the age of 67, the village loses
one of its most useful and respected inhabitants. Mr. Thompson, who
was a nephew of the late Mr. Robert Procter, farmer, whose house and
tastefully-laid out grounds he afterwards purchased, interested himself in

366

every movement calculated for the benefit and welfare of the village.

He was chiefly instrumental in getting the cattle-market established at

Long Preston, and in agricultural matters generally he always took a

warm and disinterested part. In all affairs relating to the township,

and in local history generally, Mr. Thompson was a ready authority, and

.his death leaves a gap which cannot easily be filled.

Long Preston, anciently called Preston, from the residence of its priest

or pastor here in Saxon times, has been a place of no inconsiderable

ecclesiastical note for a very extended period. Its first church, which

doubtless stood on the site of the present one, was founded probably not

less than a thousand years back. It is mentioned in Domesday (a.d.

1086), and is the only Yorkshire church between Bentham, on the north,

and Kildwick, on the south, included in that ancient survey. The

record is as follows :

Land of Roger of Poiotou.

Manor. In Prestunc (Long Preston) Ulf had three carucates to be taxed, and
one church. In Stainforde (Stainforth) three carucates. In Wicklesforde
(Wigglesworth) one carucate. In Helgefelt (Hellifield) one carucate and a half.
In Newhuse (Newsome) half a carucate. In Padehale (Painley) one carucate. In
Ghiseburne (Gisburn) two carucates. In Hortone (Horton-in- Craven) one carucate
and a half. In Chevebroc (Kelbrook) six oxgangs. In CrocheB (Crooks) two
oxgangs to be taxed.

The manor, says Whitaker, anciently belonged to the Amundevilles,
probably the first grantees under Roger of Poitou. Descending through
three generations of this family, it was given to Richard, Earl of
Gloucester and Hereford, who gave it to Richard de Bruis, son of Isabel,
his sister. On his decease it passed to Robert de Bruis, his elder brother,
who next gave it to William, another brother, who was disseised by
Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester. This Earl married Joan of Acres,
daughter of King Edward the Fiist, and left at his death, in 1295, a
son and heir, Gilbert, then aged five years.*

In the Nomina Villarum of 9th Edw. II. (a.d. 1315), Johannes
Darcy is returned as lord of the manor of Preston.

In the first quarter of the 12th century the advowson of the church
belonged to Walter de Amundeville, by whom it was bestowed upon the
Church and Canons of Embsay,f and confirmed to them with the
consent of Richard the Clerk, of Preston, by Henry Murdoc, Archbishop
of York and Abbot of Fountains. In 1151 the Priory was translated
to Bolton, and Preston, with its church, is recorded among a large

* Dugdale, Bar., vol. i., p. 215. It appears from an extent of the manor of
Preston-in-Craven, taken in the 83rd Edw. I. (Cat. 6 en., II., 697) that the above-
mentioned Earl held four carucates of land in Wykles worth (Cal. lnq.p.m., i., 202).

t Dugdale Hon. Aug., vol. ii., p. 104.

[

367

accumulation of estates, rents, tithes, privileges, &c, then in its
possession.* In consequence of this grant, the Canons of Embsay and
Bolton, whatever share of the profits they might reserve, appear to have
presented a Rector until 15 Kal. Mart, in the year 1303, when Archbishop
Corbridge decreed that this Church should be served by a fit Vicar, and
his ministers, presentable by the Prior and Convent of Bolton : which
Vicar should receive tithe of wool, lambs, foals, calves, and of the profits
of all lands enclosed and not tilled, mortuaries, oblations, and all things
belonging to the altarage, together with the great and small tithes of
Arnford. That the Vicar should likewise enjoy the rectory-house, &c.,
and nine acres of glebe, bearing all ordinary burdens. Of extra burdens,
re-building the chancel, and repairing vestments, renewing church
ornaments, books, &c, the Convent to bear two-thirds, the Vicar
one-third.f

The old rectory-house, here mentioned, was pulled down some
centuries ago, but the present vicarage occupies its site. The vicarage
garden, however, it is interesting to discover, is now precisely of the
same dimensions as stated in a 13th century deed of partition connected
with the above confirmation.

At the dissolution of the lesser monasteries, the rectory and advowson
of Preston were granted by Henry VIII. to Christ Church, Oxford,}
but by fine levied 28th Henry VIII. (a.d. 1536-7), the manor, together
with thirty-one others in Yorkshire, and the office of Feodary of
Spofforth, was alienated to Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland^

Of the original Norman church at Preston there are few, if any,
traces remaining ; the main body of the building dating probably from
the time of the third Edward. The chancel was entirely re-built (at a
cost of £1400) in 1868, by Messrs. Healey, of Bradford, and the
improvement of this part of the edifice is much enhanced by an exquisite
stained window of three lights, executed by Capronnier, of Brussels, in
1858. The church comprises chancel, nave, aisles, south porch, and low
western tower, with pinnacles, and three bells. There are spacious
galleries on the east and south sides of the interior. The eleven windows
by Capronnier, of Brussels, in their fourteenth century frames, are
exceedingly beautiful, and constitute a perfect study of the work of this
eminent firm from 1858 down to the present time. The oldest window
in Craven, and indeed in England, executed by this firm, is as I have
before pointed out, at Gargrave Church, and dates from 1854. A
chantry, dedicated to Our Lady and St. Anne, and forming the south

* Dugdale Mon. Aug., vol. vi., pp. 201, 205.

f Whitaker's Craven.

% Dugdale Mon. Aug., vols, ii., p. 170, and vi., p. 207.

§ Yorkshire Rec. Ser., vol. ii., p. 77.

868

choir of the church, was founded and endowed (8th Edw. IV.) by Sir
Richard Hamerton, Kt., and which was certified by Archbishop
Holgate (37th Henry VIII.) as of the annual value of £5 6s. 8d. Here
is a well-preserved ancient tomb (dated 1445) to the memory of
Lawrence Hamerton, the builder of Hellifield Peel, and bearing a
Latin inscription (quoted by Whitaker) and five shields : the first,
Hamerton impaling Tempest ; second, Hamerton impaling Assheton ;
third, Hamerton quartered with Knolle and Arches borne quarterly ;
fourth, quarterly, Plumpton ; fifth, Hammerton and Radcliff of
Longfeld.*

As appears by a charter, dated 8 Jun. 10th Hen. VI. (a.d. 1431)
there was a private chapel, dedicated to St. Michael, attached to the
church before the erection or endowment of this chantry. Whitaker
says that it probably stood near the entrance to the churchyard, as a floor
of painted tiles was met with in digging graves.

The following memorials are preserved in the church :

A stained window in the south aisle to James Knowles, founder of the Long
Preston Hospital, A.D. 1615. Adjoining it a similar window of two-lights to Wm,
and Sarah Hardacre (1849).

A tablet over the north door to Edward Hall, Esq. (d. 1812), Elizabeth, his
wife (d. 1790), and Isabella, their daughter (foundress of the Free School, d. 1834.)
One to Thos. Yorke, Esq., of Hal ton Place (d. 1811), and another to the Rev. Hy.
Kempson, M.A., Vicar of the parish, (d. 1867), and Mary, his wife (d. 1870).

West window to Capt. Jas. Chas. Baird, 15th King's Hussars (d. 18S7), aet. 32,
li the beloved father of Mary Coulson."

A brass tablet " in memory of a beloved mother, Susannah Coulson, — By her
youngest son, John Edmond Coulson, Vicar, May 3rd, 1862."

Above this tablet a stained window, " in dearest memory of Alan Lane Coulson,
Lieut. 4th Batt. Duke of Wellington's Regt., Aged 20. Drowned at sea, April 23,
1882. Homeward bound from Melbourne on the ship ( Shannon.* Beloved and
eldest son of J. E. and Rhoda Mary Coulson, of Long Preston Vicarage."

In the north aiBle a stained window in memory of T. J. Porritt, of Cantsfield,
Eirkby Lonsdale, who died at sea, Dec. 24th, 1871, and was buried, Lat. 36° south,
Long. 119° east.

Near the north door a stained window in memory of Robert Morley (d. 1886.)
A window (by Capronnier) presented by Mr. Morley is at the west or tower end.

In the south wall of the church a new stained window, the gift of Mr. J. M.
Robinson, of Hughenden House, Long Preston, " To the dear memory of my
parents, William and Hannah Robinson, and of our child Hannah Mary."

The fine-toned organ, (of 30 stops) restored a few years since by
Messrs. Denman, of York, was brought from St. Albans Abbey about 25
years ago, when that famous abbey-church got its new organ. There is

* The matches of these shields are explained in Whitaker's Craven, 3rd edition,
p. 146. See also Pedigrees of the Hamerton s, quoted on p. S62.

kept in the chancel here an old oak seat, six feet in length, which has a
beautiful 1 j- wrought back, with a earring of arms, and the inscription,
" James Knowles, I.K., 1616." In the vestry is a window of ancient glass,
in four pieces, blazoned with anna. The font is hexagonal, with oak
canopy, inscribed I.K., 1726. The base is Saxon or early Norman, and
has been incised with a cross, probably, or some other Christian symbol,
which seems to have been hacked off with a rough implement during a
time of mutiny or persecution. In the tower, some distance above the
ground, is a strong vault-like apartment, about six feet by four, which
in all probability has been used as a safe for the keeping of documents

Long Preston Church.

and valuables belonging to the parish. There is no doubt that the
building baa been garrisoned in war-times, or during military raids, and
that the inhabitants have sought the protection of the. sturdy walls of
their old church in preference to the lesser security of their own homes.
When the chancel was restored twenty-four years since, it was quite plain
that such had been the case, for traces of fires were found in abundance
on the floor, and the burnt bases of some of the columns were in places
as black as a fire-back. At the north end of Long Preston there is an
interesting old homestead called Cromwell House, which seems to suggest
some connection with the disturbed time in the Civil War. But the name,
apparently, is only a perversion of the family name of Crumbleholme,

370

the original owners. The house contains a curious old stone arch-way,
about eight feet long, and over the door-way are the initials and date,
R.E.C., 1685.

The registers of Long Preston Church date from 1563, but the entries,
especially of deaths, are so imperfect up to 1673 that intervals of many
years occur, and very few entries are recorded. In the Plague years,
1597-8, for example, no deaths are entered ; and in 1665, the year of
the great Plague, which spread over parts of Yorkshire, the entries,
fortunately for this parish, are not above the average, viz., 28. There is
a local tradition that a portion of the church-yard was appropriated for
the burial of those who died of a " black sickness/ 1 but no sort of date
is assigned. As there are no records, and nothing beyond the tradition,
by way of testimony, we may assume that these were the unhappy victims
of the dire scourge known as the Black Plague, which in 1348-9 reduced
the human population by, it is calculated, nearly one-fourth, and,
extending to Yorkshire, inflicted such misery and loss upon the
inhabitants in the county that there was not a third of the parishes left
with incumbents. According to the list of vicars of Long Preston we
find that no institution took place between October, 1322, and December,
1369, a period of over 47 years, an unusual interval at that era, when
sanitation and domestic comforts were deficient, and the average of
human life not near so long as it is now. A reference to the catalogue
of rectors and vicars of the parish, from the 13th century down to the
present, shows the marked disproportion 1 have pointed out, and from
this circumstance alone little is asked of the imagination in assuming
that Long Preston was without pastor during that terrible visitation.

The present vicar, the Rev. J. E. Coulson, informs me that more than
30 years ago burials were recommenced in the above portion of the ground,
but nothing was found different from the rest of the churchyard. If,
as I conjecture, this was allotted to the plague-stricken, as described, the
bodies were probably interred without coffins, and the lapse of six and a
half centuries has left not a trace behind.

All the churchwardens' accounts up to the present century, have been
either lost, or have got distributed into private hands. The present
accounts contain nothing of particular historic interest, except the usual
entries of sums paid for strewing the church-floor with rushes, whipping
the dogs, waking up the sleepy dalesfolk, and shaking the snorers during
divine service.

In the spacious churchyard, opposite the porch, is the pedestal of an
ancient sun-dial, resting upon a circular base. The stone was probably
erected to commemorate the Restoration, and bears the date, 1667, and
the following initials : I. K., R. B„ H. K., I. L., R. W., R. C, E. H.,
H. B., and W. S.

371

Od the occasion of national rejoicing it has long been the custom at
Long Preston to light a large bonfire in an enclosure still known as the
" Beacon Coppy." The last time an event of this kind took place here
was in 1887, during the celebration of Her Majesty's Jubilee*

There is an excellent charity hospital on the Gisbum road, a little to
the south of the village, which was founded by the will, dated 17th March,
1615, of James Knowles, a London mercer, of Wandon's Green, and a
native of Long Preston. It is for ten poor persons, men or women,
who must be natives of the parish, and who are elected for life by the
governors of this charity. The houses were rebuilt in 1858. The
original endowment consisted of land worth in 1786, £49 15s., and in
1886, £285 per annum. The ten inmates now receive about 6s. a week
each. There is also an excellent endowed school, founded in 1819 under
the will of Miss Isabella Hall, who was a native of Long Preston, where
she died in April, 1834, aged 77. Miss Hall, who lived in the house
occupied by the present schoolmaster, Mr. Edward Burlend, possessed
much property in Long Preston, the rents of which now form the
endowment of the school. She is said to have been of very sparing and
economical habits, and was rarely or never known to indulge in any kind
of domestic luxuries. An egg, she used to say, was a most unprofitable
meal, being too much for one person, and too little for two. In her
latter days, I am told, during one of her Spring cleanings, a woman out
of the village was engaged to help, and while brushing a shelf near the
ceiling found 20 spade guineas in a heap, covered with dust. Collecting
them up, the poor woman restored them to Miss Hall, who stated that
she had put them there for safety many years before, and having long
since forgotten them, she was now highly gratified by their discovery,
and generously asked the woman to accept one of them for her honesty.

Just below the railway station, on the Long Preston Beck, which
joins the Kibble half-a-mile lower, is the old Mill Bridge, where the
ancient corn mill stood up to 1881, when it was almost entirely demolished
by the great flood that swept with terrific fury down from the adjoining
moors in the summer of that year. An old cotton mill was close by, and
this also was washed away. Nothing much is to be seen now.

In addition to the local possessions of Bolton Priory, the monks of
Fountains and Sallay held lands at Preston. The contiguous estates of
Preston, Arnforth, and Wigglesworth, constituted, in fact, one of the '
largest and most valuable properties of Fountains Abbey. Burton .
furnishes a very elaborate and detailed account of the several places in
which the churches, lands, &c., were situated, belonging to this great
monastery, together with the names of the founders and benefactors.*

* Man, Ebor, pp. 148 to 209. See also Surtees Soc. Pub., lxvii., 39.

872

From this useful compilation I abstract the following local particulars :

Pbeston in Craven. Hugh, son of Hugh de Newton, confirmed to the
abbey of Salley, two oxgangs of land, with tofts and crofts in this place, wh'ich
Hugh, his father, and Margery, his mother, gave.

Henry, the Cook, de Kirkby-in-Lonesdale, gave two oxgangs of land.

Helias de Amundeville gave two oxgangs of land here, with pasture for 300
sheep, by the great hundred, throughout the common of the whole village ; and
confirmed to them, the monks of Fountains, all that they held of his fee in this
territory, according to the exchange which these monks made with those of SaUey,
for these lands.

In a return of a portion of the local acquisitions of this opulent
house, the following citation may also be appropriately inserted here.
Many particulars concerning most of these estates situated on Malham
Moors have already been given in our account of Fountains Fell,
pp. 854-7 :

Villa de Malham, £xvi xviii*. xd. ; Preston, xvi*. xd. ; Holme Enottes, xl«. ;

Arnefurth, £viii ; Wygelsworth, xx#. viiuf. ; West Side House, xlvi*. viiiif. ;

Copmanhow, xlvi*. viiid. ; Fernagill House, xliii*. ivd. ; Malwater House,

liii*. ivd. ; Tranhous-hull, liii*. ivd. ; Midelsmore, xx*. ; Langerhouse, xU. ;

Grangia Nedderborlay cum p'tinen, £viii ; Knolbanks, xl#. ; Rugh Close, hi. ;

Cogilcote, Ixvi*. viiii. ; Vill de Ayrton, xxiv*. ; Newehouse, xz». ; Overborlay,

£vi vis. ; Thresfeld, IviiU. xd. ; Linton, ix&. ; Brynsall, ii#. ivd. ; Conystou, xiiii*. ;

Hebden, viii*. ; Cogilhouse, xxvi*. viiid. ; Kilnsay, £xiv xvii*. id. ; Scarthcoite,

xlii*. ; Chappell House, £iv ius. ivd., ob. ; Dernbroke, lxvi*. ixrf., ob. ; Lytton,

£vii xix*. ; Nether Hessylden, £vi xiiw. ivd. ; Ulcottes, iii*. ; Overhessylden,

£iv xiiU. ivd. ; Hal ton Gill, £xii ; Foxope, £viii ; Greynfeldcote, lx*. ; Northcote,

£iv xiiis. ivd. ; Arnecliffe Cote, ciii*. iyd. ; Horton, £iv xvi*. ixd. ; Eettleweli,

xxm, ; Traynehouse, xxvii#.

In toto, £clv xd.

At the Dissolution these various estates, subject to certain reservations,
as elsewhere recited, were granted to the powerful family of Gresham.
East Malham, however, was the property of the monks of Bolton, and
at the surrender of the same to the Crown, was alienated by the King to
John Lambert, who, by Royal licence, was acting steward of the manors.
The old Fountains property of West Malham subsequently came into
the possession of the Lamberts, also. This noted family — the ancestors
of the great Republican General — seems to have been settled at Long
Preston during the Wars of the Roses. Henry, son of John Lambert,
of Preston, was slain during that eventful period. The family afterwards
removed to Winterwell Hall, near Skipton, and ultimately (in 1541)
settled at Calton in Malhamdaie.

Among the Cliffords' Household Accounts of the 17th century, there
is the following curious item :

Given to T. Preston, Bayliffe of Long Preston, a reward for discovery of gold
found there, two trees, value 10s.

878

Nothing is stated of what the " gold " consisted, but possibly it was
a sum of money, or medals, secreted by some family during the Civil
Wars. Similar finds have been made in other parts of Craven long after
the wars.

I shall now have to turn to an interesting little episode in connection
with Long Preston, out of which there has sprung a great deal of
romantic interest, exceeding perhaps what the real circumstances warrant.
Everyone surely has heard of " Long Preston Peggy." She it was who,
when a sprightly, buxom wench in her twenties, went during the Jacobite
Rebellion of 1745, to see the great Pretender, or "bonnie Prince
Charlie," as he was called. In spite of all his luckless adventures
he was certainly very popular amongst a numerous class, and especially
so with the fair sex. The heroic behaviour of Flora Macdonald, who
risked her life, and saved from an ignominious fate the unfortunate
Prince, after the " waefu' day o' Drummossie Moor," is but one of many
proofs of this. " Peggy," then, (her full name has never transpired),
had an ardent longing to see the young Prince and his gallant army, and
so she set oat on foot to Preston, in Lancashire, where they were
stationed, and not, we may suppose, without many expressions of
consternation, and some misgivings, on the part of her village friends
and neighbours. But Peggy had a stout heart, and an honest face, and
no woman could wish for more, and this she thought would save her.

She reached the rebel camp, saw the Prince, and according to Bay's
History of the Rebellion, (York edition, 1749, p. 148), it was she
and two others who afterwards captured Manchester by a stratagem.
" Manchester," says Bay on the page quoted, " was taken by a Sergeant,
a Drum, and a Woman, about two o'clock in the afternoon, who rode up
to the Bull's Head [a well-known Jacobite house] on horses with hempen
halters on, (a just emblem of what they deserved), where they dined.
After dinner they beat up for recruits, and in less than a hour Misted
over thirty." Robert Chambers, who gives a very detailed account of
the affair, says the Sergeant's name was Dickson, and that the girl was
Dickson's mistress. At length she returned to Long Preston, where the
boldness of her exploit created much comment, and led to the composition
of a ballad which was remembered and sung by the dalesfolk far and
wide long afterwards. But unfortunately only a short fragment of this
old ballad has been preserved.

It may be added that in a History of Preston, published in 1822,
the accuracy of the story is thus further accounted for.

'• It is well known at Long Preston, near Settle, in Yorkshire, that in the year
1745, a buxom, handsome young woman of that place, anxious to see the Pretender
and his army, went to Preston in Lancashire, for that purpose, a distance of about
thirty-eight miles, and after gratifying her curiosity, and staying for some time in

874

or near the rebel camp, returned to her native village. This became so much the
■abject of general conversation that it was the occasion of producing a ballad,
which obtained as much notoriety in Bibblesdale as the famous historical ballad of
' Chevy Chase.' The gentleman who has furnished this anecdote says that he has
frequently heard her sing the very song, of which Bhe was herself the subject,
twenty-five years after the occurrence, and she had then, though advanced in life,
the remains of a handsome face and fine person, which had doubtless been impaired
by time and a strong propensity to indulge in spirituous liquors."

All that is saved of the original ballad are a couple of verses
contained in Dixon's Ballads and Songs of the Peasantry of England,
(1857), and in one or two other similar works. The lines are these :

" Long Preston Peg to proud Preston went,
To see the Scotch rebels it was her intent.
A noble Scotch lord, as he pass-ed by,
On this Yorkshire damsel did soon cast an eye.

He called to his servant, which on him did wait, —
' Go down to yon girl who stands in the gate,
That sings with a voice so soft and so sweet,
And in my name do her lovingly greet.* "

The late Mr. Abraham Holroyd, of Eldwick, near Bingley,
supplemented the lost verses with a ballad of his own composition, in
which he follows, with admirable spirit, the story to its completion.
The ballad contains a score verses in all, but two or three stanzas must
suffice :

" When thus cmrnnanded the messenger went
And brought the young damsel up into the tent,
And there was Prince Charlie — before whom she did kneel, —
And the brave young Lovat, and the daring Lochiel..

Then up spake Lord Murray ; ' Of thee I would speer,
Whence comest thou, lassie, and what dost thou here ?
Art thou for us or not, I pray thee relate ?
And what was the song thou didst sing in the gate 1 '

( You shall know what you wish, if you list to my tale
I come from Long Preston, by sweet Bibblesdale ;
A milk-maid I am, Peg Rathmell by name,
And to see bonnie Prince Charlie hither I came.

Arthur o 1 Bradley was the song that I sung,—
A song of two lovers who wedded when young,
And it tells of old customs, which still do prevail,
In Craven, in Yorkshire, and sweet Bibblesdale.' "*

* See Leeds Mercury Weekly Supplement, (Local Notes and Queries), October
27th, 1888.

875

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

WIGGLESWORTH AND RATHMELL.

Wigglesworth-— Old Hall— Soke mill— Wigglesworth Tarn— Clark's Free School-
Spa Well — Longevity — Some local characters — Walk to Rathmell- Capelside
— Discovery of bronze celt, &c. — More ring-dwellings — Rathmell , a Celtic
station — The name explained — Recent use of Celtic numerals — Pre-historic
barrows — Rathmell church — The manor — Ancient mills— Tithe-barns— The
oldest Nonconformist College in Ed gland at Rathmell — Rev. Richard
Frankland — Remarkable flood scenes — Cleatops — Stone circle— Anley —
The late Mr. John Birkbeck.

[HERE are many pretty walks around Long Preston, but in
point of interest none, perhaps, more attractive than that
by Wigglesworth and Rathmell to Settle, a round tour of
seven or eight miles.
Wigglesworth is now a quiet, unostentatious little village, with a
few houses and scattered farms. The most notable building is the old
Hall, where the Hamertons, of whom I have spoken in connection with
Hellifield Peel, lived in great state. The house has long been occupied
as a farm, and little remains to tell of its former grandeur, of its
architectural pretensions, its extensive deer-park, or splendid carriage
drive, which was entered above the old Cow Bridge, and ran for more
than half-a-mile to the front of the Hall. What is left of the original
premises consists chiefly of portions of an ancient gate-way, and at the
east end of the buildings, a low rubble-built edifice (now used as a
lumber-room) which has evidently been the domestic chapel of the
family, and is probably, from the appearance of two pointed arch- ways,
as old as the first Hamerton of Wigglesworth. Recently, while
excavating near here, a flagged passage with walled sides was discovered
about 4 feet below the surface. Its direction was south-east, but for
what purpose it was made no one appears to know now. A portion of
it was taken up for building an adjoining wall. It is believed, however,
that an underground walk extends from the Hall to Hellifield Peel, and
this may be a portion of it.

The Hall was the residence of the Hamertons from the marriage of
Adam de Hamerton with the heiress of De Knoll, to the attainder of

876

Sir Stephen Hamerton in 1537. After his execution the site of the manor
of Wigglesworth, with the demesnes, park, and mill, was granted to Sir
Thomas Holcroft, who shortly afterwards (36th Henry VIII.) alienated
the same to Sir Richard Sherburne, of Stonyhurst, near Whalley, in
Lancashire. In 1717, at the death of Sir Nicholas Sherburne, the manor
of Wigglesworth, with many others in Yorkshire and Lancashire,
reverted to his daughter Mary, Duchess of Norfolk, her heirs and assigns
for ever.*

The old soke-mill stood at an angle of the beck not far from the
front side of the Hall, but being neglected and decayed it was finally
demolished about 1860, and the stones used for building purposes. The
ancient tithe-barn, however, is standing here yet. The mill, I may add,
,was worked with water from Wigglesworth Tarn, about half-mile above,
which was drained about the same time. Formerly this not unattractive
natural sheet of water, which covered several acres, was well-stocked with
fish ; eels especially being plentiful, which were often taken of large size.

The parish church is at Long Preston, but the Nonconformists have
a neat chapel in the village, erected by the Wesleyan body in 1829.
There is also an old school (now under the new Act) built and endowed
by one Lawrence Clark, a native of the place. Over the door is a
tablet inscribed : " Clark's Free School for children of Wigglesworth,
1798." Clark, it appears, was an able but unfortunate man, who
ultimately came to beggary, and in his latter years was maintained by
the house-to-house charity of the villagers. But shortly before his death
he inherited a sum of money, and with the residue out of regard for the
assistance he had received from the inhabitants, founded this academy
for the free education of their posterity.

A little below the school is a good slated dwelling, known as the
Hall House Farm, below which is the famous Wigglesworth Spa Well,
with its quaint stone canopy dated 1666, and the initials of Sir Richard
Sherburne and Isabella, his wife. An iron spring, situated close to the
beck, about 100 yards west of the Hall House, possesses no unusual
qualities, and is only like many others in the district. Some few years
ago about £1000 was spent in an unsuccessful attempt to obtain coal
from the upper Voredale beds a short distance above this spring.

That Wigglesworth has not become a popular spa resort, as was once
expected, is certainly not to be attributed to any lack of local salubrity.
Few townships have a better record of personal longevity. At the census
of 1881 the inhabitants numbered 260, a goodly proportion of whom
had passed the " allotted span," while the united ages of 8 of them (the
last of whom died in 1887) totalled at death 713 years, or 89 years each.

* See Surtees Soc. Pub., Vol. lxvii. p, 105.

877

Of these, old John Dickenson will long be remembered. He was an
active Wesleyan, and it was mainly through his efforts that the Wesleyan
Chapel at Wigglesworth was built in 1829. He was passionately fond
of music, and in the chapels here and at Long Preston his powerful bass
voice could always be heard above the rest of the congregation. It was,
indeed, a treat to hear him sing, as a dalesman once remarked to the
writer, it seemed to stir up the atmosphere and do as much good as a
" heavy daan-pour o' rain after a lang draft." Old John lived to be 93.
Another nonagenarian was John Roberts, who, although a well-knit,
sinewy old chap, took things very quietly. He was a capable shoemaker,
yet ever devoted to the " gentle craft," and spent a good deal of his
leisure time patiently waiting for a " bite " on Ribble banks. It is quite
true that as a child there were " grave " doubts about rearing him, but
John allayed all uneasiness on that score, and lived to the patriarchal
age of 90. William Bradley, " old Billy," too, must be mentioned. He
carried the bloom and vigour of youth almost to the last. He died at
94, and was for some years before his death an annuitant of the Countess
Cowper.

Between Wigglesworth Hall and Rathmell there is a pleasant stretch
of country road, (1^ miles), which commands capital views of the
craggy and heathery Highlands northwards. From no point does
Penyghent, especially, stand out more finely than from this high vantage
ground ; the whole mountain, with the intervening landscape from
Settle, Ryeloaf, Ingleborough, and the jutting end of Fountains Fell,
forming a noble and far-reaching panorama.

After crossing the Hollow Gill Wood Beck, which divides the
parishes of Long Preston and Giggleswick, and the townships of
Wigglesworth and Rathmell, we pass on the left Far Capelside Farm, and
a little beyond, pleasantly seated among trees, is Capelside House (John
Geldard, Esq.) A fine bronze paalstave, or winged-celt, was found,
while repairing a fence on this road, between Rathmell Beck and Hollow
Gill, about 80 years ago. It measured 5 inches in length, and 2 j inches
across the edge, its weight being 15 oz. These paalstaves, or improved
celts, have been frequently met with in Ireland. Also close to the drive
leading up to Capelside a pair of ancient stag's horns, in excellent
condition, was unearthed, and in a rabbit-hole near Littlebank there was
found a single relic of the same kind. In this locality there are also
several circular low earthen banks, suggestive of the foundations of
Celtic ring-dwellings, and similar to those we have described in the
neighbourhood of Otterburn.

That the site of Rathmell was a Celtic station there appears some
further evidence. In the first place, the name, I think, indicates a
possession as old as the Goidelic occupation of Craven, and in all

878

probability contemporary with the stone-circle builders on the opposite
side of the river, and these circles cannot be shewn to be other than the
handiwork of the first Celtic settlers. In the language of these early
western Celts we have the root-words radh, a cleared piece of ground,
and maol or meall, meaning almost the same thing, only applied to a hilL
Consequently Eathmell denotes a hill or an elevated piece of land cleared
for occupation. The Cym-Celt mod is a frequent hill name in Wales,
and in north-west Yorkshire the word is sometimes applied to bare
eminences and rising ground, as in Meal Bank, Ingleton. Rode, rath,
and reuth, in Anglo-Saxon and Teutonic, (frequent in German place-
names), are equivalent to the Goidelic radh, and mean ground cleared of
growing wood. On the Anglo-Saxon conquest we find, therefore, that
the Norman scribes entered the name of Eathmell in Domesday two
ways, viz. : Rodemele and RouthmelL It has been since then spelled in
a variety of ways. It may, however, be observed that one of the
Domesday names bears a suggestion of the Goidelic rath, a hill fortress,
which is not uncommon in Welsh, Irish, and Scottish topography.
Such, closely resembling our Yorkshire Eathmell, is Eathmoyle in
Ireland. The former derivation, however, seems the most probable.

Very interesting is the fact that the peculiar numerals of these
Goidelic or Gaelic Celts were used in counting by a native of Eathmell
even up to the present year. Some little time ago, the Eev. W. S.
Sykes happily took down the numbers as they were pronounced by an old
man in the neighbourhood who died early this year. As they differ in
some particulars from any of the 23 sets of sheep-scoring numerals (in
use in Britain and by the North American Indians) quoted by Mr. Lucas
in Studies in Nidderdale, they may be recorded here, as follows :

1 Aen

6 Aayther

11 Aena Dugs

16 Aena Buon

2 Taen

7 Layather

12 Taena Dugs

17 Taena Buon

3 Tethera

8 Quoather

13 Tethera Dugs

18 Tethera Buon

4 Fethera

9 Quaather

14 Fethera Dugs

19 Fethera Buon

5 Phubs

10 Dugs

15 Buon

20 Gun a Gun

These numerals were used in counting cattle, and also formerly by
the women in counting stitches when knitting, &e. Like those
mentioned by Mr. Lucas, the numbers, it will be observed, run in
pentads, or sets of five, an arrangement referable, no doubt, to the
primitive method of counting upon the fingers.

A number of prehistoric burial mounds, probably of Celtic origin,
may be seen in a field called Coney Garth, belonging to New Hall, in the
township of Eathmell, and about mid-way between Eathmell and
Giggleswick. They are all square, with one exception, which is of the
long type. They do not appear to have been noticed by any writer, and
as their occurrence here has an important bearing upon the early history

879

of Rathmell, the accompanying diagram will be referred to with special
interest. The engraving is from a sketch kindly furnished by the Rev.
Arthur Cross, M.A., of Giggleswick School, and formerly of the Gordon
Highlanders, who, with some others, has recently been carrying on
excavations in the barrows.

They are in two groups, and occupy a comparatively level site on a
rough, sloping field ; that to the north, (a — d) comprising five mounds,
being at an altitude of 625 feet, while the other group (e) of four
mounds, is situate about 25 feet lower. The two groups are 90 yards
apart, and lie along an oblique line extending from north-east to south-
west. The site is a commanding one, in full view of the Ribble valley,
and from traces of ancient ring-dwellings m the field below Littlebank,

^ — y.

k.V\

OB A
LtttttW

•..„ J^V^^ra//^

^ ) MorT /! /

* < J)

% ^- -'/

*j \ )

•• J

& A Coney Garth

I ! ; »>

flffl'tn-
wrU.

-• w

VARD*

l I

Plan op Rathmell Barrows.

before mentioned, as well as of a large rectangular earthwork on land
belonging to Swainstead Farm, there is no doubt that it was colonised at
a very early period. Several excellent springs of water also rise in the
vicinity. The quarry (shewn on the diagram), it should be noted, is a
modern one.

Only two of the mounds have been examined as yet, and these, it is
to be regretted, betray manifest indications of having been previously
disturbed. The longest (c) measures 27 yards by 5 yards, and, like the
others, is enclosed with a slight trench, formerly larger, but now only a
few inches deep. The mound (a) which occupies a somewhat isolated
position among the upper group, measures 16 yards long, 5 yards wide,

880

and lj feet deep. Upon digging a trench across the centre of this one,
some pieces of charcoal were turned up on the ground surface, but no
urn was found, nor any distinct evidence of its having been used as a
place of sepulture. It was then decided to dig down two or three feet
below the ground level, but this experiment proved unproductive. The
whole of the northern half of the mound was subsequently turned over,
with the result that several small flint scrapers and flint chippings, with
bits of charcoal, were found scattered about the soil. It looked, from
the general dispersion of these fragments, as if the spot had been
ransacked before. There were no large stones or anything else specially
noteworthy found in or upon it.

Later, the largest, or square mound (b) was examined. Commencing
operations in the centre, and digging down a depth of 10 inches, a
considerable quantity of charcoal, together with burnt earth and stones
(red and brown), was disclosed. They lay within a radius of 8 feet,
formed by a rough, circular outline of stones. The stones and earth
appeared to have been subjected to intense heat, the hard surface of the
ground being full of cracks, into which bits of charcoal had fallen down
10 or 12 inches. Near the outer edge of this hearth (h) some fragments
of an urn were unearthed, besides various flints of the black, white, and
grey kinds. The urn had already been smashed, and was in fragments,
— in all, thirteen — and consisted of coarse, unglazed pottery, ornamented
with straight lines, and burnt and black inside as if once filled with
charcoal. It would appear as if the funeral pyre had been kindled in
the centre of the space where the burnt earth and stones were found, and
the urn broken and destroyed by some previous explorers, who have
partially restored the mound, after their search, doubtless for treasure.
The other mounds, as stated, have not been examined.

Rathmell has always been an appurtenance of the ancient parish of
Oiggleswick, but in 1842 it was made a separate chapelry, and a neat
church was erected. The building, dedicated to the Holy Trinity,
contains some choice memorial glass to the Brown and Geldard families,
also a neat oak screen in memory of Elizabeth Male, and a font,
presented by the Rev. R. Ingram, which bears a rather singular
inscription. The view from the churchyard is very beautiful, and taking
Penyghent as the centre of vision, is a perfect picture. There is also a
neat Wesleyan Chapel here, built in 1846.

The manor of Rathmell in 1471-2 was held by John Catterall,
attinctus, and by fine passed 14th Henry VII. (1498), we find Alan
Catterall, Esq., plaintiff, and Thurston Hall, Esq., and Elizabeth, his
wife, deforciants, regarding the manor of Rathmell, and five marks rent
there.* A century later, 40-4 1st Elizabeth, Francis Palmes, Esq., and

* See Yorkshire Record Series, Vol. ii., p. 12.

881

Arthur Lynley, gent., are plaintiffs, and John Catterall, Esq., deforciant,
respecting the manor of Rathmell, and 20 messuages, 10 cottages, and a
watermill, with lands, and free fishing in the Kibble, in Rathmell,
Giggleswick, and Halton.* The Catteralls were a younger branch of
the Catteralls of (jarstang, and resided at Hollin Hall and New Hall,
the former half-a-mile, and the latter one mile north of .Rathmell. These
are now farm-houses.f All the Rathmell farmers, it may be observed,
have unstinted rights of peat and cattle-gaits on Rathmell Moor.

The ancient water corn-mill, above mentioned, is supposed to have
been on the site of the present saw-mill. There used to be an old flour-
mill here, and a cotton-mill stood just below it, on the ground now
occupied by the house of Mr. Mansergh. There was also another cotton-
mill just above Lumb Brig, Capelside, which was a large, three-storey
building, worked by a man called Armistead. But all three buildings,
says Mr. Sykes, were washed away by a tremendous flood one April fair-
day, now about 70 years ago. Mr. Sykes also tells me that at the
beginning of the present century there were two tithe barns in Rathmell.
One is now built into the present Wesleyan Chapel, but the other is still
used as a barn and stands on the left side of the Wigglesworth road,
about a quarter-mile from the village. The tithes were collected by the
holders of three farms, viz., Capelside, the Cross Keys inn, and the
Green, or Huggon House (my informant is not quite certain which.)
When the sheaves had been gathered into hattocks, — ten sheaves
forming a hattock, — the tithe was drawn out of every tenth hattock, and
then taken to the barn to be thrashed, after which an equal division
took place by the three claimants. Harvest labourers at that time
earned 2d. a hattock.

Rathmell has the reputation of being the scene of the first
Nonconformist College established in England. It was founded about
a J>. 1670, by the Rev. Richard Frankland, who was born here in 1680,
where his family owned a small estate. Mr. Frankland suffered severely
during the bitter persecution of dissenters in the 17th century. He was
educated at Giggleswick and Cambridge, and was afterwards chosen as
one of the professors in the University which Cromwell founded at
Durham, which vocation he lost on the accession of Charles II. He
also held the living of Bishop Auckland, a dignity of which he was
similarly deprived on the passing of the Uniformity Act.} The academy

* See Yorkshire Record Series, vol. viii., p. 106 ; also pp. 96, 114.

f A Pedigree of the Catteralls is furnished in Whitaker's Graven, 3rd ed., p. 68.

X Biographical notices of Mr. Frankland will be found in various Histories of
Protestant Dissenters ; Hunter's Hey wood, pp. 242, 311, 822, &c. ; Halley's
Lancashire Noneonformity, pp. 418, 419 ; Miall's Congregational Yorkshire, pp.
87, 120, 121 ; and a list of his pupils, with biographical notes, in Vols. ii. and iv. of
Hey wood's Diaries.

882

at Bathmell was a flourishing institution, as long as Mr. Frankland
continued its chief. During his lifetime he educated and trained no
fewer than 804 students for the dissenting ministry ; but the violent
persecutions of the period obliged him frequently to change his residence.
For a time the school was conducted at Calton Hall (the seat of the
Republican Lamberts) and afterwards at Natland, near Kendal. In
1689 he returned to Rathmell, where he died Oct. 1st, 1698, and was
buried at G-iggleswick, where a tablet, in Latin, recording his great
virtues and learning, is to be seen in the church. After Mr. Frankland's
death his academy was continued by Mr. Ghorlton, at Manchester,
assisted by Mr. Cunningham, who became his successor, but " incompetent
to sustain its reputation, he brought the Academy to an untimely and
not very honourable end." Mr. Chorlton died in May, 1705.*

The old college-building at Bathmell has been turned into four
cottages, which occupy an enclosure still known as College Fold. At
the back of the building there is an inscribed stone, F.R.E., 1686.

From Rathmell to Giggleswick station it is 2 miles, by a pleasant walk
above the banks of the Thames, a meandering stream so called, like its
majestic namesake in the south, from (Celtic, tamh, A.S: tame) its quiet,
gliding, and perhaps, serpentining character. About midway, at a point
of the Ribble called Long Streams, there is an old ford, which is
supposed to be coeval and continuous with an old British road that runs
north of Hollin Hall, and by Scoutber End westwards across the moon.
Formerly this part of the valley was much subject to floods, and the
overflowing waters have been known to make a lake nearly 8 miles long
and 1 mile wide, and in places from 6 to 10 feet deep. It is, in fact, only
about 20 years ago that some members of the Preston family, of Merebeck,
rowed across the valley in order to attend service at Rathmell church.

A little above Cleatop Farm, on the opposite side of the valley, is
Cleatop Wood. Cleatop derives its name from the A.S. cleof, a
rocky acclivity ; Latin clivus, a bank or slope. Near the north-east
side of the wood there was once a very noticeable Druids' Circle, about
60 feet in diameter ; indeed, Mr. Thomas Brayshaw, of Settle, informs
me that within the memory of persons still living, it was so regular and
well-defined that one or two gaps caused by the removal of stones could
be easily distinguished. The eminence at the rear of the site has, from
time immemorial, been known as Druids' Hill. The ground round
about is rocky and strewn with many travelled boulders of Silurian grit.

A short distance to the north-west is the house at Anley, for. some
years the residence of the late Mr. John Birkbeck, J.P., chairman of
the Board of Directors of the Craven Bank. Many years ago, on the
site of this house, two cinerary urns were discovered.

* Northowram Register, see Halley, p. 421.

383

CHAPTER XXXIX.

H0RT0N-IN-RlBBLE8DALE.

Extent and situation of Horton parish — Meaning of Horton — Domesday notice-
Grants of lands to the monasteries — Dispute in 1224 between the Abbot of
Fountains and Jervaux — History of the manor— The church — Bone-house —
Curious discovery — Interior of church — Ancient glass — Supposed dedication
of church to Thomas a Beckett — Another version — Kent families manor-lords
of Horton — Dr. Holden— Ancient bells — Plague at Horton— The parish
registers— Interesting Terrier — Old Free School — Football Field.

|UR circumambulations have brought us back once more to

Settle, whence our survey began. We shall now, therefore,

move northward by highway and byway, by moor and fell,

over the concluding portion of the comprised territory,

commencing with the parish of Horton, which no writer since Whitaker's

time seems to have taken up.

This parish includes some of the wildest and most interesting scenery
in Yorkshire, and extends from Helwith Bridge on the south, to the
source of the Ribble northwards ; on the west it is bounded by the
superb range of Moughton, and on the east by the towering flanks of
storm-tried Penyghent. The area is about 27 square miles, or 17,260
acres, and comprises the scattered hamlets of Horton, Studfold, New
Houses, Birkwith, Selside, and Thornes. The whole parish has a mean
elevation of 1200 to 1800 feet, and is, perhaps, the most elevated parish
of its extent in Yorkshire. It is largely mountain and moor-land, with
but scant remains of ancient wood.

The name of Horton means the town of the hill or mountain, in
allusion to its proximity to Penyghent. All the Hortons I know, from
Kent to Northumberland, stand beside some conspicuous hill or beacon.
Whitaker supposes, from a resemblance of the first syllable to the word
hoar, that it is so-called from the higher parts being often grey with
sleet when the lower grounds are unsprinkled. But the primitive
christeners of these places made no such seasonable distinctions. From
Saxon times there has been a considerable and increasing area under
cultivation, and in pre-Reformation days probably the entire parish was
monastic property. In 1813 an Act for the further inclosure of waste
lands was obtained.

884

The parish appears never to have been connected with the wapentake
of Staincliffe, although it has always been comprehended within the old
Deanery of Craven.* The contiguous parish of Aysgarth was long the
property of the monks of Jorevall or Jervaux Abbey, who were also the
principal landowners in Horton parish. The latter is thus noticed in
Domesday :

II Manors. In Napars (Nappay) two carucates to be taxed. In Hortan
(Horton in Ribblesdale) four carucates and a half to be taxed.

The learned Burton, with admirable brevity and precision, recites the
various donations and confirmations of lands in this parish to the great
religious houses. Among the local possessions of the Abbey of Fore
(afterwards Jorevall or Jervaux) in the Deanery of Catterick, it is stated
that King Henry III. confirmed the gift of six oxgangs of land in this
territory, with the service and homage of Richard, the Clerk, and of his
heirs, out of lands in Falberg. Also that King Edward I. granted these
monks (Jervaux) free warren in this place.f Again, in a.d. 1220,
William de Mowbray confirmed to Fountains Abbey all lands, rents, &c,
held of his Fee in Wynkesley, Swetton, Karlesmore, Kirkby-Malesart,
and Horton-in-Ribblesdale. Four years later (in a.d. 1224) a dispute
betwixt the Abbot and Convent of Fountains, and the Abbot and
Convent of Jorevall was ended ; when it was agreed that the last should
grant to the other fourteen oxgangs of land, which William Aleman gave
to them in Horton ; they likewise granted that the Abbot and Convent
of Fountains should have the lodge called Birkwid, which formerly had
belonged to Beatrix de Calton, with the inclosed meadow about the
lodge.

They had likewise in the pastures here, eight-score sheep, besides
one hundred other cattle ; but the Abbot and Convent of Fountains
were to have no monk residing in this territory, nor were ever to acquire
any other land, or possession in this place, without the licence and
consent of the Abbot and Convent of Jorevall ; and for this agreement,
the Abbot and Convent of Fountains demised the six oxgangs of land
here, which Beatrix de Calton gave to them, with tofts, crofts, men, &c,
and also with the homage and service of Richard, the Clerk, and his
heirs, for land in Falberg ; for the rent of twenty shillings per annum,
to be paid to the Abbey of Fountains, and doing foreign service.^

In the 9th of Edward II. (a.d. 1315) the Abbot of Jorevall is
returned as lord of the manor of Horton.

The estates here, belonging to this Abbey, were returned at the
Dissolution as of the annual value of £32 5s. The manor was afterwards

* See Whitaker's Riclvmond$hire } Vol, i., p. 479.
t Mon. Ebor., 369. % Ihid ^ P« 172 -

385

granted to Matthew, Earl of Lennox, and in the 12th year of Queen
Elizabeth (a.d. 1569-70) was disposed of by him to John Lennard, Esq.,
Ralph Scrope, Esq., Ralph Rokebie, gent., Sampson Lennard, gent.,
William Forest, Robert Cloughe, and Henry Dyxon. The bargain
included the " manor of Horton in Ryggysdale als Rybbelsdale, and 50
messuages and 60 cottages, and a mill with lands in the same."* In the
40th year of the same reign (a.d. 1598) a fine was passed in which Ralph
Bosville, jun., Esq., appears as plaintiff, and Saml. Lennard, Esq., and
Margaret, his wife, and Henry Lennard, Kt., as deforciants, touching
the " manor of Horton in Riggesdale, als Ribblesdale, and 50 messuages,
60 cottages, and 2 mills, with lands there, also the moiety of the manor
of Nether Calcotts [Cold Cotes] with lands in Calcotts, Ingleton, and
Bentum."f In the reign of Charles II. the manor of Horton was sold
by Sir Leonard Bosville, of Bradburne, Kent, and Lady Anne, his wife,
daughter of John Lennard, Esq., also of Kent, to Messrs. Lawrence
Burton, Richard Wiglesworth, and Francis Howson, in trust for the
proprietors of lands therein.^

The church at Horton is a venerable and interesting fabric ; the
dark, weathered stones of which it is built, its sturdy old square tower,
and long leaded roof, being in perfect harmony with the wild, heathy
moors which surround it. The nave of the church is evidently of the
12th century. The pillars, with one exception, on the north side, are
cylindrical, and ornamented with emblems of the Virgin and the Holy
Trinity. The arches are rudely semi-circular. About 1825, when
the church was restored, the roof was raised, and the projecting corbels
shew the original height of the roof. The chancel is of more recent
date than the body of the church, — probably of the time of Henry VIII.
The font, of freestone, is unquestionably early Norman, and is
ornamented with zig-zag lines, similar to the font in Burnsall church.
It is 87 inches in circumference, 20£ inches high, and is now lined with
lead. The stone base on which it rests is square, and measures 8 feet 8
inches in girth, while the height from the floor to the rim of the font is
38 inches. The south doorway is also Norman, and shews rude zig-zag
work like that on the font. In 1879-80 the church underwent a further
restoration at a cost of about £1000 ; Messrs, Healey, of Bradford, being
the architects. The old leaded roof was renovated, and the lead relaid ;
the floor was also taken up, and the vestry removed from the west end
of the church to its present position on the north side of the choir. A
great quantity of decayed bones were dug up, and many uninscribed or
defaced grave-stones also found.

* Yorkshire Record Series, ii., 372. f Ibid., viii., 94.

J M on. Ebor, 369.

886

Beneath one part of the vestry floor a large number of human skulls
was discovered lying together, and in another place near, a similar heap
of limb-bones was found. They are supposed to have been the
discharged remains of a former bone-house. The old bone-house was
situated at the south-west angle of the church, near the west door. It
is now done away with, and the walls here in 1879 were planted with
ivy, and are now picturesquely overgrown. At the same time, during
the work of excavation in the chancel, a large stone box, about six feet
square, was come upon. It was not disturbed, neither was it opened.
It was probably a sepulchre of the parish priests, for in the old Catholic
days it was customary to honour the priests by interment in the chancel,
and after their bodies had lain there a certain number of years, they
were removed to the bone-house.

A stain-glass east window, by Powell, of Leeds, was inserted in 1880,
to the memory of the late John Foster, Esq., of Horton. Previously
this had been filled with plain glass, with the exception that it contained
a very interesting fragment saved from an older and large coloured
window, probably, as I shall explain, of the time of Henry VIII. This
small fragment (now high up in the west window of the church) consists
of a mitred head of St. Thomas of Kent, or Thomas k Becket, similar to
that in the chapel of Holy 'Trinity in Canterbury Cathedral, and a few
other churches in England and France.* Beneath it appear the words,
TCbOITiaS CaUttUat. Whitakei thinks that the church, for this reason,
was dedicated to St. Thomas, of Canterbury, instead of to its older and
more likely patron (Saxon) Saint Oswald. But the glass is evidently of
post-Reformation date, and contemporary with the enlargement of the
chancel ; and, therefore, I suspect this is but part of an ancient window
given by the Bosvilles or Lennards, old Kent and Sussex families, who
held the manor of Horton-in-Ribblesdale some time after the Dissolution,
as narrated above, and memorials of whom are to be seen in Becket's
Cathedral at Canterbury.f The great martyr's memory is similarly
perpetuated in some other places, which at one time were identified with his
ail- venerating diocesan county of Kent. Thus, in the old parish church
of All Saints, in Dewsbury, which in a.d. 1120 was granted by William,
Earl of Warren, (a relative of the Conqueror), to the Priory of Lewes, in
Sussex, and held by that monastery for upwards of a century, we find an
unfortunately headless representation of the same prelate in contemporary
glass, inscribed with the characters, 5'. tb OB. GantUfttiC* The
figure, however, still shows the alb, the dalmatic fringed, the stole, and

* See Westlake's History of Design in Painted Glass, Vol. i., pp. 107, 121, 122.

f See Hasted 'a Kent, Vol. i., p. 108, &c. ; also Berry's Pedigrees of County
Families of Kent and Essex.

387

part of a cope ; also the gold shoes, and part of a staff or crozier. There
is little doubt but what this also formed a leading feature of a stained
light bestowed by some benefactor of the old south-country monks.

It would be an interesting coincidence to discover that these old
Kent and Sussex families, who owned the manor and lands, Ac., of
Horton-in-Ribblesdale, had any similar connection with the ancient
parish of Horton in Kent, now called Monks Horton. This was the seat
of a Cluniac Cell, subject to the above-mentioned Priory of St. Pancras,
Lewes. The living is now a rectory attached to the vicarage of
Brabourne, in the diocese of Canterbury ; the village being about 12
miles south-west of that city. This Horton lies beside a hill which is
noted, like the Ribblesdale mountain, for a very wide and beautiful
view.

In the church at Horton are tablets to the families of Proctor and
Hesleden, and also one in memory of the Rev. Geo. Holden, LL.D., for
40 years master of the Free Grammar School at Horton, and minister of
the parish. He held the advowson of the church, and died in 1820,
aged 68. He was the son of the Rev. Geo. Holden, who died in 1798,
and whom we have mentioned in our account of Bentham. Dr. Holden
was a man of wide culture, and possessed a large and valuable collection
of books, which he bequeathed to the Diocesan Library at Ripon.*
His predecessor at the school was the Rev. James Sedgwick, of Gibshall,
Dentdale, and an ancestor of Adam Sedgwick, F.R.S., the celebrated
Professor of Geology.

The three ancient bells in the tower of the church were rehung by
Mallaby, of Masham, last year (1891.) They are engraved, " Geo. Dalton,
fecit, 1770 ;" "Geo. Dalton, York, founder, 1776," and the oldest (a
fine tenor) bears the inscription, " In Jucunditate Soni Sonabo tibi D'ne ;
1614, W.O." (i.e. I will sing to thee, God, with pleasant sound).

. Horton would appear to have suffered from the terrible visitation
which ravaged West Yorkshire in 1596-8, reference to which we have
already made in our mention of the Plague-stone at Bentham (p. 201).
The registers of the church record the unusual number of 74 burials for
the single year 1597, while the average number of interments at this
period is only about 15 annually. In 1596 there were 17, and in 1598,
also 17, so that the epidemic must have been introduced and, happily,
stamped out in a single season. Yet one-eighth of the human population
succumbed to this dire scourge.t

* See Gents'. Mag., Vol. xci., p. 189 (1821).

f I may here remark as noteworthy, that whereas the Clapham registers only
commence with the year 1596, and are doubtfully complete for some years
subsequently, there is a Btrong suspicion that this beautiful village was visited by

888

The registers commence in 1556, but the earlier ones are not the
originals, and are stated, in old writing, to be " a true copie," &c, of the
same. The first entry records the baptism, March 26, 1556, of Johannes
Bentham, and adds that Thomas Proctor was godfather, and Janet
Wildman, godmother. Among the earliest entries in these registers we
find the names of Bentham, Proctor, Green, Howson, and Twisleton,
some of which are still represented in the parish. Amongst the
manuscripts preserved in the vestry I find the following interesting and
very exact account of the properties of the church, over a century ago,
and which is deserving of record. It is entitled :

A Terrier for the Parish Church of Horton-in-Ribblesdale,

GIVEN IN AT THE ARCHBISHOP'S VISITATION AT SKIPTON IN TE YEAR 1770.

There is no Parsonage or Vicarage House. Horton is a perpetual Curacy. Dr.
Will son, ye Dean of Carlisle, is ye Patron. There are no Tythes belonging to it.
The Church has been augmented doubly by ye said Patron and ye money is now-
laid out upon a purchase known by ye name of Newfield Edge, in ye township of
Middop, parish of Gisburn, and county and diocese of York, and consists of Park
Field, 1 acre and a half, 4 crofts, S acres, Wildman Ing 2 acres, Sunny Bank 2
acres, Rough Close wall'd about with stone 2 acres and a half, 1 garden and orchard
East from ye House 10 perches, Lathe Field 3 acres. Well Field 1 acre, Calf Croft a
rood, Brown Ing 2 acres and a half, right of an undivided Common called Weets
for 2 horses annually. East from ye House, the fences chiefly ditch'd. There is
some small Wood upon ye premises^ but not valuable, and chiefly in ye fences.

The House is built with stone and slated ; a slated Barn adjoining to ye west
end of ye House. Another thatched Barn called Brown Lathe at ye east corner of
ye Brown Ing. The premises on ye north adjoin to John Oddie, on ye east to an
undivided Common ; on ye south to a place called Cragg, belonging to Widow
Brogden, and on ye west to Middop, belonging to Sir John Kay. The Bents and
Issues of ye above premises, with ye churchyard and surplice Fees, make ye whole
of ye Curate's Stipend, which is near Thirty Pounds per annum.

There are 3 Bells belonging to ye said Church, but no Clock. The communion
plate of Silver consists of 1 Salver with this inscription, " The Gift of Mrs. Jane
Willson, Relict of Mr. Thomas Willson, late of Beecroft, Anno Salutis humane,
1722," and 2 Cups, one with ye same inscription as ye Salver, and ye other without
any inscription, supposed to have been bought by ye parish ; likewise 1 Pewter
Plate and 3 Pewter Flagons, without any inscription. There are 2 antient Trees
in ye churchyard, its Fence is a Stone Wall and repaired by ye parish. The Clerk
and Sexton's Wages are paid by custom.

The above is a true Terrier for ye Parish Church of Horton aforesaid. As
witness our hands :

Robert Wetherall, Minister.

OMt&, I Churchwarden,.

Tho. Howson, \

Thos. Hesleden, . I Principal
Thos. Wetherherde, [ Inhabitants.
Thomas Dowbiggin, I

the fell pestilence too. In 1596 the recorded burials are 42. In 1597, — for 8
months only, (March 29th to December 9th), — they are 62, being an average of
about 90 for the year, but the entries are imperfect until the April following, when
the ensuing 12 months (1598-9) shew 31 burials, and in 1599-1600, they are 35.
Clapham, as elsewhere stated, lay on the main coach-road from Leeds to Kendal,
and in both of these towns the plague raged virulently in 1597-8.

889

The endowment of the living of Horton was augmented in 1888 by
a grant of £800 from the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, £150 from the
North Craven Church Endowment Association, and £150 by private
subscription.

The old Free School, before mentioned, was founded by the will of
John Armitstead, gent., who died in 1726, and is buried on the south
side of the churchyard, where a stone bearing a plate with a Latin
inscription is placed to his memory. He endowed the school with land
and money, the latter being devoted to the purchase of other estates by
the then trustees. In 1880 the accruing rents amounted to about £180
per annum. The seminary is now under the Endowed Schools Act.
Up to about 1860 the old school-house stood at the north-east corner of
the churchyard, near the present post office, and the lads during their
play-hours used to skip and bound among the tombstones of the sacred
enclosure, — a rather peculiar place, one would think, for a recreation
ground. It is not unlikely that the post office was, at one time, the
priest's house.

The new school stands on the other side of the beck, and opposite it
is a May Pole, erected on the occasion of Her Majesty's Jubilee in 1887.
Sports were then held, and the said pole was beautifully greased and a leg
of mutton placed at the top, which was competed for amid much
merriment. Close by are the old parish stocks.

On the south side of the church is a green enclosure called from time
immemorial Football Field, where doubtless in a former age the rustics
of the dale held their sports, and played the game of football as it wap
done in the days of Queen Elizabeth.

890

CHAPTER XL.

All about Penyghent.

Flood-rakes on Penyghent — A "smoking" beck — Douk Gill— Geological aspects
— A lovely nook — Thirl Pot — Mineral deposits — Thund Pot — An unexplored
rift— Ascent of Penyghent — Enormous snow-drifts — Sixty sheep perished —
Sequence of strata on Penyghent — Wild flowers and ferns — Prof. J. G. Baker,
F.R.S., and Yorkshire botany — Observations on some Penyghent plants — From
Penyghent to the moon — Ancient deer forest — Curious indictment — The
Penyghent Beagles — The prospect from Penyghent — Horton trout-hatchery.

ROM the elevated platform of Horton station, (760 feet), on
the Carlisle line, you get a capital look-out over the wild
moorlands to the east, with the whole compass of Penyghent
visible to its summit (2278 feet). Our illustration, which is
engraved from a photograph by Mr. A. Horner, of Settle, depicts the
mountain three miles off. The three broad, bare "rakes" on its
western face are very conspicuous, and are likely to continue so, for the
soil at the surface is washed down to a great depth, which was done
during a terrific thunderstorm in July, 1881. In less than an hour,
indeed, the waters of the Ribble rose from the condition of a mere
" pebbly brook " to a mighty, raging flood more than twenty yards wide
and twenty feet deep ! The farmers in the fields ran for their lives,
believing that there was a return of Noah's Deluge ; the fields and low-
lying lands quickly filled, and great waves were seen to leap down the
dark lightning-lit face of Penyghent, as if from a reservoir in the
clouds, leaving the mountain shattered and scored as we see it to-day.

There is a peculiarity about one of the streams, — the Bransgill Beck,
which enters the Ribble at New Inn. This stream literally " smokes "
in winter, so much so that under certain conditions of the atmosphere a
film of " cloud " or thick steam may be seen floating above it a long
way up. The water is not so clear as that of the Ribble, and the
phenomena of its " reeking," as the natives say, is explained by the fact
of the stream issuing from a great depth, and its temperature being
higher than that of the outer air, produces the evaporation on contact.
The stream flows underground about a mile, passing through Thund or
(often called) Hunt Pot, and crosses at some part of its course, at

891

another and probably lower stratum, the stream flowing through Thirl
or Hull Pot, without mixing their waters, — a circumstance first discovered
by the muddy water, after a sheep- washing, going down the one passage,
and the husks of oats down the other. The Bransgill Beck comes ont
at Bransgill Head, to the east of New Inn, and the Hnll Pot stream,
afterwards known as Horton Beck, appears at the foot of Dow dill Scar,
about three-quarters of a mile above the village of Horton. There are,
however, many subterranean springs besides, which go to supply these
two becks. But the Bransgill stream has always more water than the
Dow Gill or Horton Beck, which shews that the usually small quantity

Penyghent, from Hortok Station.
of water falling through Thund Pot is not all the water that is received
by Bransgill.

Dow or Douk Gill" is a very picturesque spot, reached by a pleasant
walk on Horton Beck side, where the geologist, botanist, and artist, or
lover of Nature, will find ample scope for the gratification of their
several tastes. Here, just at the foot of the Dow Gill plantation, there
may be seen green slates and grits of the Lower Silurian system cropping
up in the bed of the stream, close up to the base of the Great Scar
Limestone, which in this neighbourhood is about 600 feet thick. These
grits and muds tones pass np into slates with calcareous concretions full

* The meaning of this word ie explained On p. 336.

892

of Lower Silurian fossils, and forming the lower part of the Coniston
Limestone. The dip flattens at about 150 yards down the stream, and
then turns to the north-east, so that the Coniston Limestone lies in a
syncline, which is cut off on the west side by a fault which ranges about
north-west and brings up again the green slates. Traces of galena and
pyrites occur in the rock adjacent.*

The head of the glen is circumscribed with a fine, lofty scar, — a
miniature Malham Cove — beautifully fringed with shrubs and ferns, and
nicely wooded. The stream runs out at the foot of the scar, and forms
a series of shelving cascades among huge boulders of limestone, which
in past ages have become detached from the surrounding cliffs.
Anciently, no doubt, the stream fell over the summit of the scar, exactly
as it used to do at Malham Cove, and when that was the case, the sight
during a roaring flood, such as not unfrequently happens here, must
have been sublime. There is a delightful peep down the glen from the
cove, and in warm and genial Spring weather, or in the early Summer,
when primroses and other floral wildings embroider the mossy banks, and
the voices of birds enliven the groves with their merry lays, the aspects
of the retired little dell are simply bewitching. At such a season the
scene always puts us in mind of Thomson's charming delineation in
" The Castle of Indolence " :

In lovely dale, fast by a river's side,

With woody hill o'er hill encompassed round, —

* * •

It was, I ween, a lovely spot of ground ;
And there a reason atween June and May,
Half prank t with Spring, with Summer half imbrowned,
A listless climate made, where, sooth to say,
No living wight could work, ne cared even for play.

The long cave of debouchment of the stream may be traversed a distance
of about 150 feet, but the attempt should not be made except in very
low water.

From Douk Gill, a path may be ascended on the left, and the cart-
road entered which leads up to Horton Moor Gate. From here you can
readily visit the stupendous chasms of Thund and Thirl Pots, whence
the ascent of Penyghent can be conveniently made.

From Horton station, the tourist who desires to scale Penyghent by
the readiest and most interesting route, should quit the main road about
mid-way between Nett Inn and Horton, and go up the long grassy lane
by the vicarage, which winds to the left a good l£ miles until the open
moor at the gate above-mentioned is reached. Looking backward from
here is a very pleasing view of the distant hills ; the rocky top of

• See Memoirs of the Geological Surrey : Ingleborough, (1890), p. 11.

393

Smearside, and the long flat range of Whelpstone Crags, being the most
conspicuous objects. From the Moor Gate, by keeping northwards along
the low ground in the hollow 220 yards, to the wall in front, you will
come somewhat suddenly on Thirl (Hull) Pot.* Thirl Pot is an
extraordinary sight, and has doubtless been formed and enlarged by the
churning action of an immense volume of water, which for long ages in
past times filled it. The rift is about 180 feet long, 50 feet wide, and
from the bank top to the floor of the chasm, nearly 60 feet. It is
generally almost dry in the bottom, with a trickling stream entering its
perpendicular mid-wall on the north side, but I have seen this " trickling
stream " a raging, boiling flood of thick amber-coloured foam, four or
five yards wide, rolling into the gorge with a furious roar, and dissipating
' its spray in spreading showers like steam rising from a huge cauldron.
During the tremendous flood in 1881, mentioned above, the storm-
water in the Pot rose to the hardly credible height of nearly thirty yards,
and flowed down the southward hollow approach to it, making gaps in
the walls, and rushing down the glen into Douk Gill with riotous havoc,
and on several previous occasions within living memory it has behaved
in a very similar manner. Ordinarily the water in the Pot is engulfed
by the ever-widening fissures at its base, to reappear, as previously
stated, at Dow or Douk Gill Head. The rift may be descended at its
east end, in the bed of an old stream, where the rocks have tumbled in,
and which at one time have formed the roof of a cavern. A small cave
in the side may also be penetrated, and a peep at the subterranean waters
obtained. It is not unlikely that this, as well as other great pot-holes
on the western declivities of Penyghent, are seated on lines of fracture,
-although there is little or no actual displacement observable. A vein of
lead, ranging apparently east and west, runs through Thirl Pot, and
there are also traces of zinc, and copper ores with calcite and barytes
noticeable. The bed of sand in the bottom contains usually no
inconsiderable quantities of these mineral washings, and there is a
tradition in the neighbourhood that the old lead-roofing of Horton
Church was, at some unknown period, obtained from Thirl Pot, a
supposition which has much in its favour.

A little east of this great pit a gate will be observed, through which
the tourist passes, and after going straight ahead 60 yards, he wheels to
the right 400 yards across the heather to a walled enclosure, in which is
the smaller but perilously deep abyss, above mentioned, called Thund
(or Hunt) Pot. The rising ground between the two rifts is called Tarn
Bar, and has evidently once formed the shores of a mountain lake or

* I am again particular, as has been my practice throughout this work, to give
precise directions for finding these holes and chasms, as much time is often lost
in searching for them.

394

tarn. The Pot should be approached cautiously. It is bat 60 feet
across at its widest part, the gap tapering at each end, and is only 20 feet
long. It is a spot that might be easily overlooked. Many years ago
this fissure was descended by some sappers and miners with the aid of
stout ropes, but a depth of little more than 100 feet was reached, when
progress was prevented by the hole becoming too contracted to admit of
further descent. The rift, however, was plumbed to a depth of an
additional 100 feet, when the ground was struck and the passage
apparently branched, probably to the west, or in the direction of the
main outlet of the stream at Bransgill Head. This immense gulf, which
receives usually but a small runlet of water, has never been known to
overflow.

Penyghent may now be ascended readily from Thund Pot, which
lies directly under the middle of the " saddle," and within a half -hour's
steady climb of the top. There is a track on the north side of the
stream, which passes through a gate, whence the "saddle" is soon
gained, and the summit reached. The open moor on the north-west
side of the mountain is very much exposed to the violent storms of wind
and rain that sweep down Ribblesdale from the north, and wreaths of
snow sometimes gather to an enormous height on this side. Six years
ago over sixty sheep perished at once in a tremendous snow-drift here,
above Thund Pot, where the animals had taken shelter under a wall,
that rapidly covered and froze them up to a depth of six or seven yards.
At such seasons, too, the pot-holes are traps of danger to the hardy
sheep, which are left the year round grazing upon these wild, broken
fells, and many a time an attentive ear may catch the sound of piteous
bleating deep within the gloomy recessess, and in places often whence
the recovery of the animals is impossible.

Penyghent (2278 feet), or as it is sometimes spelled Pen-y-gent,
and Pennegant (meaning, perhaps, the head of the winds*), although
taking but the sixth place in point of altitude amongst the great
Yorkshire hills, is in form and majesty perhaps the most elegant and
pleasing of all the lofty summits that dominate these western dales.

* Edwd. Dives, in his Picturesque Tuur (180S), p. 90, says the original
orthography is Pen y Gwent, or Pen Gwent. literally the head or summit of the
dorms: Mr. Lucas (p. 71, Studies in Ni dderdale) offers the explanation that the
affix ghent or gaint may be from the Celtic caint, a plain or open country, also a
field of battle. But in an ancient survey contained in the Escheat Rolls of the
time of Edw. III.. I find the name written Penigent ; and in a perambulation of
the Percy Fee made in the following reign (about 1380), it is written Pen ay gent.
In the oldest map of Yorkshire, viz., Sax ton's (1577), it is spelled Penny gent
Camden (Brit., Vol. iii., p. 237, a.d. 1607) spells it Pennigent ; Drayton, in the
Polyolbion (A.D. 1620), also writes it Penigent. And this seems to be the most
frequent as well as the oldest spelling.

895

The mountain, like that of Ingleborough, &c, is built up chiefly of
carboniferous limestone and millstone grit, though in differing proportions.
The Great Scar Limestone, which, as before pointed out, may be seen
resting unconformably above the Silurian slates, &c., in Dow Gill,
Horton, on Penyghent attains an altitude of about 1400 feet ; its whole
thickness being, therefore, here about 600 feet. Some 500 feet of shales,
limestones, and sandstones, embracing the Yoredale series, supervene
between this and the Main Limestone, which is the topmost bed, and forms
a conspicuous homogeneous mass of encrinital rock underlying the capping
of Millstone Grit. These latter measures comprise some varying
sandstones and shales, with two coal-seams, and which on the south-
eastern face of the mountain are displayed in the following order :

From the summit no section for

D JUvlU ••• ••• • • • • • • ••• ••• • • •

Grit and shale, alternately

v*OBl DuiUl ••• ••• ••• ••• • •• ••

\jt ri v • • • • • • • • • ••• ••• • • • •••

V*/vJ«l ••• • • • • • • • • • ••• ■•• • • •

Grit (of Ingleborough) 75 to 81, say

Shale 25 to 36, say

Grit and Sandstone (probably the equivalents of the Ten
Fathom Grits of Swaledale)

DUE* I v •■• ••• • • • • • • • • • ••• • •

Main Limestone (as above)

Feet.
56

117

78
30

58
9

Thus, there are in all 378 feet of measures above the Cam or Main
Limestone on Penyghent.* The coal of this series was formerly obtained
for burning lime, but the workings are now abandoned.

In wild flowers and other forms of vegetable life, Penyghent abounds
in many curious and interesting species. It is impossible to refer to
them all, but the following list, which comprises those plants coming
within the bounds of the Infer- Arctic zone, at 2000 feet and upwards,
and which is the result of observations made by Prof. J. 6. Baker,
F.R.S., of the Royal Herbarium, Kew, during a visit to the mountain in
September, 1889, will be perused by the botanical reader with interest.

On the Gritstone Ridge, at from 2100 to nearly 2300 feet. Potentilla
TormentUla, Galium saxatile, Calluna vulgaris, Vaccinium Myrtillut, Empetrum
nigrum, Juncus squarrosus, Eriophorum august i folium, Carex rigida, Scirpus
caspitosus, Air a ceespitosa, Aira fiexuosa, Festuca ovina, Nardus striata.

On the Main Limestone Scars of the western side at 2100 to 2200
FEET. Ranunculus repent, Draba incana, Arabis kirsuta, Arenaria verna f
Cer ostium triviale, Geranium lueidum, Geranium Robertianum, Oxalis Acetosella,
Tr^folium repent, Lotus corniculatus, Alchemilla vulgaris, Saxifraga hypnoides,
S. oppositifolia, Pimpinella Saxifraga, Scabiosa Columbaria, Galium sylvestre,
Hieracium cceriuin, Carduus arvensis, Belli* perennis, Achillea Millefolium

* See Diagram on Sheet 28 of Vertical Sections of the Geological Survey.

396

Campanula rotundifolia, Euphrasia officinalis, Vermiea officinalis, Veronica
Chamadrys, Thymus Serpyllum, Rumex Acetosa, R. Aoetosella, Urtioa durica,
Sesleria carulea, Poa annua, Cystopteris fragUUy Asplenium Trichomanes, A.
Rida-muraria.

Springs below the Main Limestone, at 2100 feet. SteUaria uliginosa,
Chrysosplenium oppositi/olium, Epilobium palustre, Arpargia autumnalis, Juncus
effusus, Car ex ovalis. Anthoxanthum odoratum*

Professor Baker, whose observations on the botany of Ingleborough
I have also quoted, is a Yorkshireman by birth, being a native of
Guisborough. He is an ex-President of the Yorkshire Naturalists*
Union, and possesses without doubt a more wide and complete knowledge
of the vegetable treasures of the Yorkshire Dale country than any
botanist who has preceded him. His now classical work on North
Yorkshire, first published in 1860, is known and appreciated throughout
the botanical world.

But with respect to the above list, we feel a little regret that the
distinguished botanist has not furnished us with a more exact record of
the situation or aspect in which the various species were found, points
which are now held to be of the utmost value in determining the laws
which govern the life-history of plants in particular areas. Reference is
made in the list to the exquisite Alpine saxifrage (J3. oppositifolia), which
is an especially rare and characteristic plant of the western scars of
Ingleborough, and doubtless, also, as before stated, a relic of the age
when these mountains were mere islands among a network of crumbling
glaciers. Another of these interesting saxifrages (not included in the
list) is the pretty little yellow flowered one, with bright orange anthers
(S. aizoides), which grows by the stream side along with the peculiar
insectivorous Butterwort (P. vulgaris), above Hunt Pot, on the west side
of Penyghent. Then there is the singularly interesting species of ground
bramble called the cloudberry (Rubus cham&morus), and very
appropriately named, too, for it flourishes on the high and cloudy summit
of the mountain, though evidently from what the old writers tell us
about it locally, not in the same profusion as formerly. It bears a
rather large and solitary white flower, which in August produces a
delicious fruit resembling somewhat a small strawberry. The sturdy fir
club-moss (L. selago) grows in the same vicinity, while amongst the
short grass above the limestone, on the west side, is to be found after
close searching that very curious and diminutive fern, the rare moonwort
(B. lunaria).

Now having made this indirect allusion to the moon, we are reminded
of a remarkable incident which is said to have been enacted on the
summit of Penyghent. Old Israel Jobson, a thrifty cobbler, who lived

* Se4 the Naturalist for 1889.

897

down at Horton, seems to have been imbued with a strange, life-long
desire to visit some of the planets, and in order to gratify (as he thought)
this peculiar whim, managed by his industry and frugality to save enough
to purchase an enormous quantity of rope and timber. With these
materials, and after many years of patient labour devoted to its
construction, he made and erected on Penyghent, an immense ladder
that enabled him, after a long and fatiguing journey, to reach the moon.
But at length, entering the strange planet, and having shaken hands
and had a little explanatory conversation with the Man -in -Charge, the
Horton cobbler began to feel uncommonly hungry, but perceiving that
the inhabitants around him were made of a kind of pot-metal, and were
feeding off common clay, which they scooped out of the ground, Israel
seems to have manifested some uneasiness at the spectacle, and ascertaining
that that would be his only provision if he remained, he politely declined,,
not without a feeling of disappointment, and lost no time in descending
to mother Earth, and to a more appetising fare off his wife's home-made
bread and good old-fashioned Yorkshire ham and eggs ! The moral to
be drawn from this wonderful adventure, seems to be, that to be content
is to be happy. The story is recounted in a scarce tract entitled The
Man in the Moon, written by the Eev. Miles Wilson, who was curate of
Halton Gill a century ago, and father of the Rev. Edward Wilson, a
Canon of Windsor.

Long after the dissolution of monasteries the forest of Littondale,
which included a large slice of Penyghent, continued to be well-stocked
with red deer and other game. The deer were allowed to run wild, and
evidently provided irresistible sport to other than their rightful owners.
In a transcript of t!ie two earliest known Sessions Rolls of the West
Riding (1597-8 to 1602), presented by the late Ed. Hailstone, Esq.,
F.S.A., and edited by John Lister, Esq., M.A., for the Yorkshire
Archaeological Association, I find an indictment against a certain John
Bentham for illegally hunting and killing a couple of deer on Penyghent.
The following is a translation :

And further they say that John Bentham, late of Horton in Ribblesdale, on
the 27th day of July, in the 43rd year [of Elizabeth] aforesaid, about noon of the
same day, hunted two does, and chased them as far as a certain high mountain
called Penygent, in the county of the West Riding aforesaid. ' And that the
aforesaid John Bentham, nigh Penygent aforesaid, with a certain gun and pellets,
anglice gunne and pellets, which the same John then and there held in his hands,
shot at the two does aforesaid, and the said two does with the gun and pellets
aforesaid then and there slew, contrary to the form of divers statutes in such case,
set forth and provided.

These animals were doubtless the property of the Earl of Cumberland,
for in an inquisition taken in a.d. 1579 reference is made to certain
wrongful appropriations having occurred on various parts of the estate

398

daring the minority of the third Earl. The second Earl had purchased
the whole of the possessions of the Gresham family in Litton and
Langstrothdale, which had formerly belonged to Fountains Abbey, as
I have elsewhere related.

For some time the ancient sport of beagle-hunting has been kept up
with capital spirit on these wild moors. The pack now well-known by
the name of the Penyghent Beagles was established by Hr. Foster of
Douk Gill, about ten years ago. Hr. Gomersall describes them as
" a nice level pack of about a dozen couples, of beautiful colour, with
plenty of speed and capital voices, and 15 inches is their standard height,
a size that has the approval of the best authors upon this style of hare
hunting at the present day."

We will now conclude our account of Penyghent with an analysis of
its splendid prospect :

N.— The long sweep of Greenfield Knot, bounding Langstrothdale on the Booth,
beyond it Cam Fell, Dodd Fell, the round boss of Wold Fell, Widdale Fell,
and in the gap between, the eastern scarp of Wild Boar Fell in the Forest of
Mallerstang. Steaming trains, apparently no larger than a child's toy, are
seen moving northwards from Horton until lost in the spreading flanks of
Wheruside and Blea Moor. To the north-west, between Whernside and Rise
Hill, are the Calf, Whitfell end, Cautley Crags, and Yarlside. It is also
possible, by scanning the horizon a little to the left of these, to distinguish
the summit of Helvellyn, 45 miles distant, and the furthest point visible.

W. — The peculiar, wide limestone pavement of Moughton Fell, the whole of the
Ingleborough range, including Simon Fell, Park Fell, &c. Upper Lunesdale,
Morecambe Bay. Black Coomb (45 miles) is hidden by Warton Crag beacon
and the south shoulder of Ingleborough. To the south-west are Burn Moor
and the Bowland Knots.

S. — The broken summit of Attermire Crags, Ryeloaf, Kirkby Fell, Pendle Hill.
To the south-east, the mile-long barren ridge of Fountains Fell, and in the
depression between it and Ryeloaf, the Keighley and Cowling Moors.

B. — Littondale Head, Birks Fell, Yockenthwaite Moor, Cray Moss ; the deep pass
between the latter and Buckden Gable ; Great Whernside. Close below us
runs the wild mountain -road by Rainscar and the Giants* Graves to Hal ton
Gill and Litton, with the wooded ravine of He sled en Gill on the north side.
York Minster (visible from Great Whernside) is not seen.

The return to Horton may be made by way of Brackenbottom and
the interesting trout-hatchery on Horton Beck, established in 1884 by
the Manchester anglers, who, says Mr. T. E. Pritt, the well-known
angling writer, " have succeeded in making a large stretch of one of the
fairest of Yorkshire rivers into some of the best trout-angling water in
the county."

399

CHAPTER XLI.

On the Scars of the Uppee Kibble.

Horton Moor edge — Sell Gill chasm— Jackdaw Hole— Horton Tarn and its origin
—Turn Dub and the water from Alumn Pot— Birk with farms — A lodge of the
monks— Park Fell — Birkwith Cave —Nanny Carr Hole.

ANY nooks and corners of interest still remain unnoticed in
the vicinity of Horton. One short but interesting tour may
be made from the hamlet of New Inn by the upper road to
Birkwith and Ling Gill (8^ miles), returning by New Houses
to Horton. From the Crown inn a broad grassy lane turns to the left,
and ascends to the edge of Horton Moor (1200 feet). A magnificent
view is afforded hence over the romantic valley, with the rippling river
and the lofty top of Ingleborough peering cloudwards away to the west.
In about a mile the road crosses a depression caused by the Sell Gill
burn, and which here bridges a narrow chasm descending to an unknown
depth. It is protected by a wall on the left, and on the right, or upper
side, the large size of the boulders in the bed of the stream offers some
indication of the power and volume of water that sometimes pours with
resistless fury into the cleft below. On passing through a gate the road
runs along a verdant level about a half-mile, when a cluster of ash and
fir trees will be observed on the left. Here is another peculiar opening
called Jackdaw Hole. Though of no particular depth, it is a formidable
looking place, and is walled off. It is 70 feet long, 40 feet broad, and
at one point 45 feet deep. The hole is dry, and in the bottom, on the
north side, a wide natural arch opens into a low cave. The walls are
precipitous, and a climb down them is an awkward and hardly rewardable
experiment. The sides are decorated with a variety of ferns, and
brushwood, and are especially showy with long rosy spikes of the great
willow-herb (E. angustifolium).

The scars below may be descended to the Tops farm, and the road
followed down to New Houses and Horton. In the hollow below the
road leading to New House lies Horton Tarn, a good trout water, now
preserved by the Manchester Angling Association, which has a boat-
house here. Early in the present century the site of the tarn was a

400

large, open field with a wall across it, that has not been removed, and
which can be seen in places above ordinary water-mark. It appears to
have been made by the stopping up of a pot-hole in' the tarn by flood-
debris, — some say a dead sheep having got lodged at the outlet was the
first cause, and the pot in consequence filled up and overflowed the
depression in which it is situate to the extent of nearly two acres.

Between the tarn and the Bibble is another immense churn-like rift,
about 30 feet across, known as the Turn Dub. Its depth has never been
ascertained, but it is generally supposed that the water from Alumn Pot,
above Selside, a mile to the north-west, enters it from under the Kibble.
This was found out many years ago, when the marble quarries above the
Pot were worked, and the discoloured water flowing through it had the
same murky hue when it appeared in the Dub. The latter discharges its
surface waters into the river below. Above High Birkwith there are
also a number of water-sinks which, it is thought, drain into the same
cavity.

The two farms of High and Low Birkwith, a mile north of the tarn,
are very old establishments, and in the 12th century belonged to Jervaux
Abbey, and afterwards, as appears by the deed of agreement between the
Abbot and Convent of Jervaux and the Abbot and Convent of
Fountains, quoted a few pages back, in 1224, a portion, to the extent of
14 oxgangs, or probably not less than 250 acres, was granted, with the
lodge at Birkwith, to the latter monastery. An " inclosed meadow "
about the lodge likewise formed part of the grant. In former days the
present farm at High Birkwith was a busy hostelry, where packmen and
waggoners rested on their rough journeys between Settle and Hawes.

The monks of Furness were also the proprietors of pretty extensive
properties in this neighbourhood, and at the Dissolution their possessions
at Birkwith and Ling Gill were returned in the Val. Eccles., 26th Henry
VIII., as of the annual value of £6 19s. They also had various other
properties about Ribblehead, including the large tract of Park Fell,
which forms the northern buttress of Ingleborough, and which would
appear to have been enclosed, and appropriated to the purposes of rearing
stock.

Near Birkwith there is a cave, which has been penetrated a distance
of about 600 yards, but it is low and wet, and usually difficult of access.
Below Low Birkwith, at the junction of the Cam Beck with the Ribble,
is a peculiarly-formed Pot called Nanny Carr Hole. It is now shallow
and of contracted proportions, but was formerly a rather spacious cavity,
having a constant supply of water, and being of no great depth, provided
a convenient bathing place to the youth of the district. During the
construction of the Settle and Carlisle railway it was much resorted to
for this purpose by the workmen.

401

CHAPTER XL1I.

Moughton Fell and Alumn Pot.

Beecroft Hall and the Wilsons— Moughton Fell -Erratic boulders— Interesting
geological sight— Moughton Fell Cave — Selside— Alumn or Helln Pot — A
stupendous chasm— What means Alumn or Allan? — The Celtic river Allan,
and local family Aleman, a suggested explanation- Immense size of the rift —
First descent of the Pot— Subsequent descents and explorations — Professor
Dawkin's description.

|EAVING Horton station by the wicket-gate on the west, or
up side, you may pass over a large drift-hill to the retired
farm-house at Beecroft. This was formerly a fine old hall,
and the ohief seat of the ancient manor of Beecroft, which
in Elizabethan days comprised about a score tenements, with lands
belonging thereto. After the dissolution of monasteries the manor came
into possession of the Grown, and in 1568 we find it the property of
Thomas Hennage, Esq., who also held the rectory of Horton at this time.
About a century later the old hall was occupied by the Wilson family,
and in the time of George I., the Rev. Thos. Wilson, D.D., a great
benefactor to the church, resided here. Dr. Wilson received his early
education at Sedbergh Grammar School, and became Dean of Carlisle.
He died in 1778. His wife was a daughter of Josias Morley, Esq., of Scale
House, Rylstone, who was lord of the manor of Beamsley and Clapham.
The tourist on leaving Beecroft Hall may proceed southwards over
Moughton Fell, and by making a gingerly descent of the scars into the
lonely Crummack valley, reach the romantic hamlet of Wharfe. Prom
Wharfe there is a good road through Austwick either to Settle or
Glapham.

On the top of Houghton hundreds of ice-transported carboniferous
sandstone boulders lie scattered about the bare limestone and on the
patches of denuded boulder-clay, which here and there nurture picturesque
clumps and spreads of flowering heather. The stones, however, are
small, and not to compare with those on Norber. At the Ooom or
Colm Scar* (there is a scar of like appellation at Dent) quarries under
the south-east side of Moughton, the base of the mountain limestone,

* Hutton (a.d. 1781) writes it Culmes or Coums, vide Tour to the Caves, p. 47.

402

resting horizontally on the upturned Coniston flags, displays one of the
most curious and interesting geological phenomena that is to be seen in
Yorkshire. In the calcareous rock at the foot of Moughton there is
also a small cave. It was first opened out about 25 years ago by
Mr. Clapham, of Austwick Hall, to whom this part of the land at that
time belonged. Excavations were carried on to a depth of about 50 feet,
when they were stopped, as nothing was discovered, except on the floor
layer near the mouth, bones of a few small animals such as foxes and
rats ; and if the latter belong to the common rat (Muz decumanus)
the deposits cannot be older than about the middle of last century. The
entrance to the cave, which commands a lovely view, can now be reached
only by means of a ladder.

To return to Horton, we may follow the ancient road up the valley,
passing the site of the large cairn mentioned on p. 177, to the half-
deserted village of Selside (3 miles), whence a visit can be made to that
most extraordinary-looking of all the Yorkshire ground-chasms, — Alumn,
Allan, or Helln Pot. It lies about a half-mile west of Selside, and may be
reached also by a rough walk from Gaping Gill, as described on p. 176.
The writer has walked from Clapham station by Clapham Cave and
Gaping Gill to Alumn Pot, and back to Clapham, in the time permitted
by an afternoon excursion-train. It is 12 rough miles.

This immense and unquestionably very ancient pot-hole, as well as
the stream that falls into it, has been variously spelt Alumn, Alum, Alem,
Allan, Alan, Allen, Hellen, Hellan, Helln, and latterly Hell. The oldest
forms are apparently the first-named. There is a river Allan in Scotland,
and a stream called Alun which joins the Dee near Chester. Prof . Rhys
{Celtic Britain, page 274), thinks these may be derived from the old British
town, Alauna, near the Allan, at Ardoch. That the neighbourhood of
Simon Fell, on the eastern declivity of which the Pot is situated, was
inhabited by hordes of Celts, I have already abundantly shewn, while the
neighbouring cairn just referred to may be a relic of the same age. But
if this be thought to suggest no reasonable interpretation, the name
may, perhaps, be a personal one, like many others in the district. It is
a matter for speculation, however, how we are to reconcile the terminal
win, which occurs among Borne of the older writers, with any likely name
or meaning of local significance. There is a suggestion in the spelling
Alumn or Alemn, in the local knightly family name of Aleman, a
member of which, one William le Aleman, (see p. 884), held two
carucates (at least 200 acres) of land in Horton in the time of King
John, and this he gave to the monks of Fountains Abbey. In a.d. 1180,
Richard le Aleman, who was lord of Studley, near Ripon, held a moiety
of the manor of Linton in Craven. Perhaps the great pot-hole lay at
some time on the Aleman estate.

403

The Pot at the surface is in shape an ellipse, measuring 130 feet by
40 feet, and its perpendicular depth is about 200 feet. It is without
doubt the most terrific natural opening in the ground (a thick mass of
limestone) that is known in Britain. Though not so deep as some other
chasms we have described, it is at the mouth much larger and of much
more appalling aspect. Especially in boisterous weather and under a
gloomy sky, the imagination of the most intrepid beholder must be
seized with peculiar dread and astonishment, as he gazes into its profound
and awesome depths. At such a time we have visited the place when the
Pot has, apparently, been half-filled with water, and the boom and crash
have been tremendous, while a thick curling mist, caused by the ascending
spray, rose above the brink. We have been told that when the waterspout
fell on Whernside during the making of the Settle and Carlisle railway,
the water rose in the Pot to within a few yards of the top, and the stream
and cascade from Long Churn was partially dammed back and caused a
flooding of the surrounding land above the points of engulfment ! On
such occasions the water, through a hundred Assures, finds its way into
the hole. The Rev. J. Hutton, who was vicar of Burton in Kendal
120 years ago, declares that he plumbed the chasm in " an extraordinary
dry season " and found 43 feet of water at the bottom ! This is hardly
possible ; his line had probably caught the waterfall in its descent.

The first reported attempt to explore this weird vault was made in
1847 by a party of ten persons, led by Mr. Birkbeck, of Anley, and Mr.
Metcalfe, of Weathercote. They entered the gulf by way of Long
Churn and Diccan Pot, these being respectively the upper and lower
portions of a subterranean water-passage — doubtless at one time one
continuous cave — which terminates eastwards in about 150 yards, at a
depth of nearly 90 feet from the surface, and discharges its volume in
one unbroken cascade to the bottom of the abyss. The bottom was
reached, but the party, after their fatiguing efforts with ropes and planks,
and being also uncomfortably wet through, were unable to make an
exploration of the cave, and after some hours incarceration, gladly
returned to the surface. The cavern, of course, contained no stalactites,
as owing to frequency of floods these were prevented from forming.

Next year the same adventurous spirits descended from the summit
of the Pot by means of a windlass fixed on two baulks of timber laid
across the chasm. A bucket, covered with a shield, and lowered by two
guiding-ropes to prevent whirling, enabled two persons to descend at a
time. The quantity of water in the chasm, however, prevented a
satisfactory exploration being made, and it was not until the Spring of
1870 that this was accomplished.

The party included Mr. Birkbeck, Mr. Metcalfe, Prof. Boyd Dawkins,
and three ladies, in all thirteen persons went down, and a large number

404

of visitors and people from the district were present to witness the
descent. Capital provision was made by Mr. Birkbeck, alike for the
internal and external necessities of the party, and a number of navvies,
under the direction of Mr. Sharland, one of the engineers of the new
railway, were employed to look after the mechanical contrivances. Two
ladders, each about 8 feet long, were also sent down to facilitate, if
needed, the work of exploration. Prof. Dawkins observes that the
actual vertical descent measured on this occasion was 198 feet, and that
the Pot gradually narrowed in descending, until at the bottom it was not
more than 10 feet wide. He then proceeds to describe the interior as
follows :

After running the gauntlet of the waterfall we landed in the bed of the stream,
which hurried downwards over large boulders of limestone and lost itself in the
darkness of a large cave, about seventy feet high. We traced it downwards,
through pools and rapids to the first waterfall, of about twenty feet. This obstacle
prevented most of the party going further, for the ladders were too Bhort to reach
to the bottom. By lashing them together, however, and letting them down, we
were able to reach the first round with the aid of a rope, and to cross over the deep
pool at the bottom. Thence we went on downwards through smaller waterfalls
and rapid 8, until we arrived at a descent into a chamber, where the roar of water
was deafening. Down to this point the daylight glimmered feebly, but here our
torches made but little impression on the darkness. One of the party volunteered
to go down with a rope, and was suddenly immersed in a deep pool ; the rest,
profiting by his misadventure, managed to cling on to small points of rock, and
eventually to reach the floor of the chamber. We stood at last on the lowest
accessible point of the cave, about 300 feet from the surface. It was indeed one
of the most remarkable sights that could possibly be imagined. Besides the
waterfall down which we came, a powerful stream poured out of a cave too high
up for the torches to penetrate the darkness, and fell into a deep pool in the middle
of the floor, causing such a powerful current of air that all our torches were blown
out except one. The two streams eventually united and disappeared in a small
black circling pool, which completely barred further ingress.

The floor of the pot and the cave was strewn with masses of limestone rounded
by the action of the streams ; and the water-channels were smoothed and grooved
and polished, in a most extraordinary way, by the silt and stones carried along by
the current. Some of the layers of limestone were jet black, and others were of a
light fawn-colour, and as the strata were nearly horizontal, the alternation of
colours gave a peculiarly striking effect to the walls. Beneath each waterfall was
a pool more or less deep, and here and there in the bed of the stream were holes,
drilled in the rock by stones whirled round by the force of the water. High up,
out of the present reach of the water, were old channels, which had evidently been
watercourses before the pot and cave had been cut down to their present level.

In the sides of the pot there are two vertical grooves reaching very nearly from
the top to the bottom, which are unmistakably the work of ancient waterfalls.
There was no stalactite, but everywhere the water was wearing away the rock and
enlarging the cave. We found our way back without any difficulty, a small
passage on the right-hand side enabling us to avoid the very unpleasant task of
scrambling up two of the waterfalls. We arrived finally at the top, after about
five hours' work in the cave, wet to the skin.

405

CHAPTER XLIII.

Among the Gills and Caves at Ribblehead.

Aspects at Ribblehead — Blea Moor an ancient snow-field — Glacial relics — Ling
Gill — Inns — Gearstones, old market — Source of the Kibble — Thorns Gill —
Katnot Cave — Ling Gill, its geological character — A former powerful stream —
Linn or Ling Gill ? — The gill a cover for wolves, &c. — Citation of 13th century
fine — Ancient bridge — Picturesque aspects of Ling Gill — Its vegetable interest
— List of species — The Arenaria gothioa, a new British plant — Other
interesting botanical discoveries— Brow Gill Cave — Calf Hole — Ingman Lodge
-^Batty Wife Hole — Ranscar Caves.

T Ribblehead station (1080 feet) on the Carlisle line we are
in a grand wilderness of caverned hills and wide-reaching
moors, the platform occupying the centre of a triangle
formed by three of the highest mountains in Yorkshire, —
Whernside, Ingleborough, and Penyghent. Blea Moor also rolls away
up on the right, a wild, desolate tract of bare crag and grouse-haunted
heath, rising on the watershed of England. It is covered with the
debris of an ancient ice-sheet, and there is no doubt whatever that in
the Glacial Epoch this was an immense snow-field, and the gathering
ground of that enormous frozen mass, which, split by the northern
buttresses of Ingleborough, ploughed down Ribblesdale and Chapel le
Dale. We have, however, already spoken of these ancient glaciers, and
pointed out numerous travelled stones on their tracks, as well as the
large mounds of clay and gravel, or drumlim, so called from their shape
resembling a drum-line, conforming with the direction of ice movement;
There are some romantic glens and little-frequented caves accessible
from Ribblehead, of which the magnificent ravine of Ling Gill is,
perhaps, the most notable scenic feature on the north side of the valley.
Several other spots of interest, however, never previously written about,
we intend now to point out. The Ingleborough and Whernside caves
to the south we have already discussed in a previous chapter ; let us
therefore confine our attention to such objects and curiosities as lie in
the opposite direction.

There are two comfortable inns at Ribblehead, about a half-mile
apart. The one near the station was built when the line was being made
about twenty years ago. Since 1876 it has been tenanted by old John

£06

Kilburn, who for 35 years was master of the little school at Chapel in
the Dale. He was six years a shepherd on Ingleborough, and though
now nearly 80, is still hale and able, and regularly attends the weekly
market at Bentham, ten miles off.

At Gearstones, up to about twenty years ago, there was a market for
corn and oatmeal, held from time immemorial every Wednesday. As many
as 20 to 30 waggons laden with oatmeal used to come out of Wensleydale,
and which went to supply all the farm-houses for a good many miles
round. When the market originated is not known, but probably in
monastic times when Gearstones, as part of the ancient manor of Newby,
to which it still belongs, was a possession of Furness Abbey. The inn
here (1050 feet) is a very old establishment, but the building was almost
wholly re-constructed twelve years ago. It is a quiet comfortable place,
and from the sitting-room window there is a delightful view of the
mountains and valley southwards.

The usually accepted source of the Ribble, or Ribble Head, is reached
from the road going up to Gearstones inn, through a field on the right
and below a barn, near two thorn trees. The water flows into the Gale
Beck just below. This beck comes down from Newby Head (400 feet),
three miles north, and is really the furthest tributary of the Ribble.
The Cam Beck, to the east, which rises within a mile of the source of
the Wharfe, on the opposite watershed, joins the Gale Beck a half-mile
north-east of Selside, and the two streams united form the Ribble
proper.

The Gale Beck flows through Thorns Gill, a small but beautiful
wooded ravine excavated out of the Great Scar Limestone, and which
may be entered by a footpath descending behind the Gearstoyus inn to
the wooden bridge that spans the gill head. The stream may be
traversed on either side, but by crossing the bridge, and following the
glen downwards about 200 yards, a steep tongue of rock, about 60 feet
above the bed of the stream, will be observed, from the top of which
there is a very beautiful view up the romantic flower-strewn glen, with
its series of miniature cascades noisily displaying themselves in tawny
foam. Here is the entrance to a cavern called Katnot Hole or Cave.
It has a rather low opening, but on descending within it attains a
convenient height, although the passage is but narrow. In about 40
yards from the mouth a spacious grotto is entered, whence the fissure
suddenly bends to the east, and continues at a moderate elevation for a
distance of over 400 yards. This passage can only be penetrated in
single file, and as the sides and floor are usually very wet and dirty, it is
certainly not a desirable place to explore in a new suit. A century ago,
according to Hutton, " spar and petrifactions abounded in every part."
There is a pot-hole about half-a-mile higher up which receives the

407

stream flowing through the cavern. A few yards below the mouth of
the cave, the water through it runs from a small hole into the beck.
Noticeable hereabouts are the large cavities in the sides of the cliffs,
scooped out by the churning action of stones and water, and which
plainly indicate how much higher than its present bed the stream
formerly ran.

Ling Gill is on the Cam Beck, above mentioned, and is unquestionably
one of the finest and wildest ravines in Yorkshire. The erosive action of
the mountain torrent — anciently a much more formidable stream than it is
now — has carved out a deep channel in the Scar Limestone, which, in
the upper part of the glen, forms grand, beetling walls nearly 300 feet
in height, clothed with the most luxuriant vegetation. Near the Far
House barn, at the top of the glen, about 25 feet of coralline (Yoredale)
limestone is exposed. Ice scratches, trending S.S.W., are noted on rock
along the road on the east side of the Gill, and there is no doubt that
on the melting of the great ice-sheet on Cam Fell the quantity of water
coming through this gill must have been prodigious. From the size of
many recently-rolled boulders in the stream-bed, we may see even yet
what a great flood can do. Stretches of heather, or ling, descend to the
head of the ravine, and doubtless at one time spread lower down, and
from this circumstance, I suppose, the gill was named. There is no
particular waterfall or pool of sufficient consequence, I think, to warrant
the inference that the name was derived from the Celtic Llyn y as at
Linton in Wharfedale, &c. Yet in the Furness Abbey charters it is
usually written Lynghyil, — the Scand. word gill (a mountain ravine),
prevalent in Craven, being, it is noticeable, spelled by the monks in the
Cumbrian fashion, as is common in the Lake District, where many of
their possessions were situate.

Ling Gill and the neighbouring ravines probably gave cover to
wolves and other now extinct animals long after the time of John of
Gaunt, who is credited with having slain the last wild wolf in Yorkshire,
near Woodlesford, about a.d. 1380. The old Mowbray Fee, which
included a vast expanse of country, and extended eastwards as far as
Ribblehead, or in the terms of a contemporary survey, from " Gemesike
to Caldkeld super Camb, and from Caldkeld sup. Camb to the top of
Penigent," where it joined the territory of the Percys, abounded in
wolves and stags, for in a fine of the time of King John, between
William de Mowbray and Adam de Staveley, particular reference is
made to these animals, with respect to concessions of free chase.

The old pack-horse road from Horton t by High Birkwith (which
now it is hardly credible to think was once a busy way-side inn), over Cam
End to Hawes and Wensleydale, crosses the head of Ling Gill, and
there is an ancieno and picturesque gritstone bridge here, which bears

408

the following quaint inscription : " This bridge was repayred at the
Charge of the whole West Rideing, anno 1765." Higher up, at the
junction of this once important highway with the Ingleton road, is a
very old mile-stone inscribed, " To Settle xii," but it has no date.

The gorge of Ling Gill is, as already intimated, highly romantic, bat
as there are no proper paths along the bottom of it, the visitor must,
except in dry weather, be content with a view of the scenery from the
paths along its summit. The scramble along the bottom is at any time
a rough undertaking, being over large boulders, and dark spreading
pools, with here and there a jutting cliff and hanging tree, by which the
explorer may have to swing himself from one stepping place to another.
Our illustration — the first, we believe, that has been taken — is from an
admirable photograph by Mr. A. Horner, of Settle.

A great variety of trees, shrubs, mosses, and flowering plants adorn
the various parts of the Gill, among which the following interesting
species may be noted :

Tea-leaved willow (S. phylicifolia), bird-cherry (P. padvs), red-berry laurel
(27. mtzerewni), one of the few localities in Yorkshire where it is truly wild ;
goldilocks (12. auricomus), rock-cress (A. sagittata and C. impatiens), vernal
whitlow-grass (jR vulgaris), Alpine scurvy-grass (C alpina), rock-rose (IT.
Ckameectstus), cranes-bill (#. lucidum and Q. sylvaticum), water avens QGf. rivals),
marsh valerian ( V. divica), small scabious (&. Columbaria'), melancholy thistle
(C. heterophyllui), London pride (5. umbrosa), broad -leaved bell flower (d
latifolui), bird's-eye primrose (P. farinosd), field gentian (0. campestris),
butterwort (P. vulgaris), sedge (C. pallesceru), blue moor-grass (5. carulecC).

But the most notable plant in the district of the upper Ribble is the
now well-known Gothland sandwort, (Armaria gothica) discovered by
Mr. Lister Rotheray, of Skipton, on the 12th of June, 1889, an account
of which he furnished in the Naturalist of the same year. The writer
accidentally met Mr. Rotheray within a short distance of the site, and
we turned aside to view the plant which was then in nice flower. The
plant bears some resemblance to another interesting species of sandwort,
the Armaria norvegica, the latter being found in Iceland and Shetland,
and on the continent only in Norway and Lapland. The Ribblehead
species differs, however, from the one just named, in " its looser habit
and narrower leaves." It is a small plant, with a perennial root, and
bears 1-4 pure snow-white tiny blossoms on a stem. It grows luxuriantly
among loose stones, at an altitude of about 1050 feet above sea-level.
"The locality, standing alone," observes Prof. Baker, of Kew, who
visited the spot in the September following the discovery, "is not
satisfactory as regards the nativeness of the plant, and I expect,
confidently, that on further search it will be found upon the limestone
cliffs of the neighbouring mountains."

409

Subsequently hundreds of botanists have visited the spot from all
parts of the kingdom, and it is greatly to be regretted that the desire
to retain " a single specimen, 1 ' has well-nigh exterminated the little gem.
But, fortunately, in the following August (1890), Dr. Silvanus Thompson
and his sister, Miss R. F. Thompson, of Settle, discovered it at a new
station on> the same horizon, but some miles distant from Mr. Rotheray's
site, yet the vandals have discovered this place also, and the last report
we received was, alas ! " it is going fast here, too." As these are the
only two known stations of the plant in the British islands, it is earnestly
hoped that all who may be attracted to the spot, will mercifully spare
the plant from an untimely destruction.

The district is of great botanical interest. A Bradford botanist,
Mr. J. Beanland, recently discovered on the fells here at an altitude of
about 1500 feet the rare wood cow- wheat, (M. Sylvaticum), which is
the first record of its appearance in Ribblesdale. On Moughton Fell,
at an elevation of about 1150 feet, the pretty purple saxifrage (S.
oppo&itifolia) was discovered by the Misses Thompson in July, 1891.*

But to resume our explorations. From Ling Gill bridge, by following
the east road a half-mile to a barn on the right, a descent of 50 yards
may be made to Brow Gill Head, where is another somewhat extensive
cavern. The mouth is 6 or 7 yards high and as many wide, and the
rocks about are prettily decked with moss and ferns and flowering
shrubs, amongst which are the little mealy pink primrose and the tall
columbine. On entering, the floor of the cave is found to be curiously
fluted in a succession of razor-like edges of limestone, like frozen waves,
running parallel with the direction of the stream. These have doubtless
been formed by the rapidity of the flow of water through the solid rock,
and which is not affected by any side currents of air. About 40 yards
in, a lofty chamber is entered, where a huge block of limestone, fallen
from the roof above, bars further progress in this direction. The roof
hence is very low, yet singularly smooth and flat ; and the process of
insinuating yourself along this peculiar gap, over the sharp, knife-edged
floor, is one which requires not only care, but almost the flexibility of
a serpent to accomplish with safety. But when once through, an immense
lateral fissure is entered, whose jagged walls rise above the boulder-
strewn floor to a height of nearly 100 feet. When exploring this cavern
with a party last year, we clambered down this chasm to the right, until
it tapered off to a small aperture about a foot wide, beyond which there
was the sound of falling water. We lowered our lamp at the end of a
walking-stick, and the bright light revealed to us the glassy torrent
descending into the gloom. From the large quantity of sand thrown up
through the hole where we stood, it is evident the water must occasionally

* See Xaturalitt, 1891, p. 252.

410

rise to this point. The cavern may be further explored by creeping,
and we have been told that one or two persons have succeeded in
climbing the waterfall (30 feet) and penetrating the fissure some distance
beyond, but without reaching the end. The stream descending through
the cave rises on Green Haw Moor, and after a course of about a mile
falls into the Calf Hole, an opening in the rocks some 12 yards deep,
whence there is a fall of about 200 feet to the mouth of the cave. About
100 yards below the mouth there is a picturesque natural limestone
arch over the stream called God's Bridge.

To reach Ling Gill, or Brow Gill, from Ribblehead, follow the Selside
road one mile, and cross the Ribble by a wooden bridge below Ingman
Lodge (Lodge Hall), whence a path goes over the hill to Nether Lodge,
at the foot of Ling Gill.

Ingman Lodge has been a fine old mansion, and retains even yet a
pleasing and imposing appearance of antiquity. It was a possession of
the monks of Furness,* and a clump of trees before the house is said to
mark the site of an ancient burial-ground. The house appears to have
been rebuilt in 1687, as that date, and the initials C.W. — being those of
a local family named Weatherhead — appear over the canopied portal.
Two large battle-axes are cut in the stone on the sides of the doorway.
The family, however, lived here some time before the date named. Among
the wills proved at York is one of Elizabeth Weatherhead, widow of
Christopher Weatherhead, of Ingman Lodge, dated 11th May, 1651.
The Weatherheads are an old Craven family, and appear formerly to
have been especially numerous about Skipton.

Just below the station houses at Ribblehead, and close to the road,
was a deep pot-hole called Batty Wife Hole, which was filled up when
the railway was made. How it got its name we have been told was this.
Many years ago a man named Batty, living in the neighbourhood, had
been some time separated from his wife, but at length agreeing to make
it up, they appointed a time to meet at this place, and talk things quietly
over. The woman, alas ! arrived so late, that the old bitterness arose,
and an altercation ensued, when she either accidentally fell into the hole
or was deliberately thrown in and was drowned. It is said, however,
that in his old age the man's conscience was so much disturbed, that he
was often seen to hobble to the spot, and with dejected mien peer into
the hole and exclaim — " Betty ! Betty ! where art thou, my lass ?"

Of the pot nothing remains but two low-arched holes 14 feet apart,
the water running down that on the left with a peculiar rumbling noise,
and then, curving back into the other, re-appears at the l>ottom of the
road, near the finger-post. The course of the stream was shewn some
years since by the accidental upsetting of a cask of petroleum in a well

* See West'8 History of Furness.

near the station houses, which came out at both of the places named. On
the road, about 100 yards past the finger-post, there has been a small
landslip, leaving the rock exposed, below which the water in flood issues
with great impetuosity. It is supposed to traverse a cave on Ranecar,
the entrance to which lies about a half-mile to the north-west

There are three cave-holes on Ran scar or Rainscar (see p. 349). all
within about thirty yards of each other. The middle one is, perhaps,
the best to explore, but it usually contains much wet, and though
extending, with its branches, several hundred yards, has no petrifactions
worth mentioning. The entrance is close to a conspicuous thorn-tree,
near the end of the scar, westward, and it lies in a rudimentary pot,
filled with huge fragments of limestone, one of which has blocked the
mouth of the cave. With some exertion the cave-hunter may clamber
down, or lower himself with the aid of a rope from the top.

Prom Ribblehead (1080 feet) the tourist may proceed by Newby
Head (inn) to Uawes (10 miles), or ascend Whernside (2414 feet) and
down Deepdale, by the dobbie-haunted Tallas Gill, to Dent (8 miles) ; or
he may reach Dent by rail to Dent Head (6 miles) and thence down the
beautiful valley (4 miles) as described in an ensuing chapter.

412

CHAPTER XLIV.

Ha wes, Yore Head, and Garsdale.

<3am End — Boundary of the Mowbray Chase — Hawes — Meaning of Ha wes — Upper
Yoredale, a forest of red deer — Hawes Chapel — Charter for market — Romantic
scenery — Hardraw and Simonstone — The scar waterfall — Geological peculiarities
— Meaning of Hardraw — Buttertubs Pasfl — Mossdale Gill — Disastrous flood —
Plant life — Hawes Junction — Around the Moorcock — Old pack-horse road —
Hellbeck Lunds — A seat of Danish pirates — Wild animals — The last wild boar
— Grizedale — Gift of the valley to Jervaux Abbey — A walk through Garsdale
— An old coach-road — Scientific character of the dale — Bow Fell Tarn —
Garsdale celebrities — No inn in Garsdale — Grand approach to Sedbergh.

Y Newby Head (1430 feet), or by Cam End from Ling Gill,
we now leave Craven and descend to the interesting little
town of Hawes. At Caldkeld ah. Cathkeld, on Cam,
(Ribblehead) the old Mowbray Chase joined the great Forest
of Wensleydale, which was bounded on the east by the northern heights
of Langstrothdale, " as Heaven water falleth into ye Forest of Wenoeydale
and Langstrothdale to a place called Crookdale Head." The whole of
the country to the south and east of Penyghent was in the Percy Fee.

Had Hawes been a pre-Norman settlement, we should have held the
name to have sprung from the A.S. and Scand. hagm, haigh, hay (pi.
hayes) meaning a fenced enclosure. But as we find no very clear proof
of so early an occupation, we think it is simply so-called from the
provincial word Jiaws, used to denote a neck of land, or pass between
one valley and another. The village is often yet spoken of locally as
Th' Hawes. There are, however, appearances of a Roman camp at the
ancient village of Gayle, and near the hamlet of Hardraw, 1^ miles north
of Hawes, we have undoubted evidences of the old Celtic presence.

Upper Yoredale was probably too wet and barren to have been
regularly occupied in remote times. Even yet it has the unenviable
reputation of being the rainiest corner in all Yorkshire. Old Leland,
writing in the time of Henry VIII., says it is a " forest of redde deere,
longynge to the Kinge," and Camden, fifty years later, informs us that
wild deer, goats, and " stags of extraordinary size, with branching horns,"
find there a safe harbour.

We do not discover any reference to Hawes until long after the
Conquest. The place is not mentioned on any of our older maps.

413

Speed (1620) gives Helbecklundes, but marks neither Hawes nor
Hardraw. Mordents map in Gibson's edition of Camden, (1695), also-
gives Helbeck Lunds and Hardraw, but not Hawes. In Gough's edition
of Camden, (1805), Hardraw appears as Hardlow Chap., and Simonstone
adjoining, as Simonson.

That there was a settled community in the neighbourhood of Hawes
as early as the Lancastrian period, is shewn by the need of a chapel here,
which was endowed by Richard III. in 1488, when (Sir) James WhaHey,
priest, was appointed "to sing at the Chappelle of the Haws, in
Wensladale for oon yere, and to have for salary seven marks." This old
chapel was pulled down in 1851, and the present church erected on its
site. The registers of the church date from 1695. In the 11th year of
William and Mary, (1699), Hawes was chartered a market town. The
grant was for a weekly (Tuesday) market, and two fairs yearly. The
market is still held on Tuesday.'

But the attractions of Hawes are not to be wholly estimated by their
historic significance. The little town is well favoured as a holiday resort,
and every year thousands of health-and-pleasure-seekere visit the
neighbourhood for the sake of the sweet mountain air and beautiful
scenery. No fewer than seven romantic dales radiate from this pleasant
centre, and since the extension, in 1877, of the little Alpine railway to
Hawes Junction, (6 miles), the mountains and dales of the western
Pennines are now easily accessible.

On the opposite, or north side of the river, is the ancient hamlet of
Hardraw, a tidy-looking little place, with a neat Gothic church, erected
about twelve years ago by the Earl of Wharncliffe, who owns most of
the property in this neighbourhood. The well-placed old Elizabethan
house at Simonstone, close by, is occupied by him as a lodge during the
shooting season. Within the enclosed grounds are the famous Hardraw
Scar and waterfall, which, by permission of his Lordship, are always
accessible to visitors on application for the key at the inn. The cascade,
which has been painted by Turner, is one of the finest and most imposing
in England, leaping, as it does, from a height of exactly 100 feet, without
break, into the gloomy and impressive ravine by which it is approached
from the west.

On two memorable occasions, — the winters of 1789-40 and 1880-1,
— it has been frozen from top to bottom, and the water was observed to-
flow as through a glass tube. The overhanging rocks and trees in the
vicinity were also thickly encrusted with icicles and delicate frost-work,
and the scene presented was one of indescribable beauty. Other waterfalls
in the valley, such as Mill Gill, were frozen at the same time, and large
numbers of people came, sometimes from long distances, to witness these
remarkable and picturesque scenes.

414

The Hardraw rock, — the lowest limestone of the complex Yoredale
series, is well evidenced here. It is a dark, fine-grained stone, which has
a limited range, extending eastwards to Aysgarth, and westwards into
Dentdale and Garsdale, where the dip brings it in contact with the
Craven or Great Scar Limestone. About Hawes it iB separated from the
latter by about 40 feet of shales, which are highly fossiliferous, and yield
particularly fine encrinites. A low cave penetrates the rock on the west

Hardbaw Scab.

side of the falls, and we have been told that a dog once entered the
fissure and ultimately came out at the Cotterdale House cave, over a mile
off, but wholly destitute of hair ! We have, however, heard this story
of similar fissures before.

The derivation of Hardraw is, I opine, from the Celtic Ard (high)
and dwr (water), although Dr. Whi taker surmises that it is Saxon,
meaning the aw (water) of Hardere, its Saxon proprietor. The

415

descending torrent reminds one of the spouts or pistylls of Wales, and
there is just a suggestion in the name of the Cym-Celt. Rhiadur, a
frequent term for waterfalls of this class in Wales.

A much-trodden route with tourists from Hawes is over the grand
Buttertubs Pass (1682 feet) into Swaledale. The pass appears to have
borne this curious name from time immemorial, and is so called from a
group of evenly-formed churn-like cavities or swallow-holes in the
limestone at the summit. The peculiarity about them is that they do not
lie in hollows or depressions, but are on level ground at the surface.
The splendid array of mountains, combined with their lofty and precipitous
character, is about here most striking, and equal even to many of the
finest granite scenes in the Scottish Highlands. In few places does grass
grow on steeper slopes than in this locality.

On moving up the valley by the picturesque Cotter Force, a walk of
about 3 miles brings us to Mossdale Gill, a wild and magnificent ravine,
washed by a rattling hill-beck that comes down between the slopes of
Widdale and the heathery billows of Mossdale Moor. The head of the
glen is darkened with thick pine woods, and here are two grand cascades,
one of them on the Mossdale Beck, and the other on the Hollin Gill
Beck, — a tributary stream to the left. Another fall of about 30 feet,
may be seen from the railway at the foot of the gill. It is well worth
exploring this romantic ravine during or soon after a flood, even at the
expense of a little wetting. The volume of water poured down is
sometimes truly appalling. At Mossdale Farm for instance, in the
summer of 1888, I saw something of the effects of a recent big flood,
which washed away a number of stone walls in the bottom of the valley,
strewing it with wreck, and bringing down boulders of two or three tons
weight from the gill head. A kitchen-garden attached to the farm,
containing some three or four dozen berry-trees, was completely washed
away, and now nothing but gravel and stones mark the site. The
repairs on this estate alone cost the proprietor over £100.

Many good flowering-plants, mosses, and lichens, flourish about
Mossdale Head and Cotter Forces, and amongst them the following :

MtconopsU cambrica, Meiwm Atlhamanticum, Saxifraga tponhemica, Tr-ientalU
europaa (Widdale Carr plantation), Viola arenaria (new to Yorkshire), Sedum
rillosum, Hieraoium catsium, Poly podium Phegopteris and Dryopteris, ISncalypta
ciliata, Bartramia Uhyphylla, Bryum crudum and Zierii, Pogonatum alpinum,
Plagiochila punctata, var. flag ellif era (new to Britain), Hypnum pule helium,
Collema fluviatile, Ricasolia amplutima, Or aphis scripta, &c.

From Mossdale Farm, on going over the hill, we descend into the
main valley at Wade Bridge, where the road was swum away during the
1888 flood, just mentioned. A good, strong retaining wall has since
been built, with sluices opening into the river, which now carry off the
water from the fells.

416

We are now in one of the wildest and least populous parts of
Yorkshire, and on reaching the lonely Moorcock inn, about a mile from
Hawes Junction, the scene on all hands is one of far-spreading moors
and desolate mountains, yet not without some traces of cultivation.
Grass, even, is now mown in places where, forty or fifty years ago, was
nothing but bent-covered swamp and wiry ling. There has also been a
little planting going on, but the trees, owing to the cold and wet, are
thin and poor, and many have succumbed. Before the present good
road was made through Lunds and Mallerstang, the only route between
Hawes and Kirkby Stephen was by the old " jagger " road, which crossed
the infants Yore and Eden by Hell Gill Bridge, under Lady Pillar, and
Great Shunnor Fell. This was the road traversed by the CountesB of
Pembroke to Pendragon Castle, in the dale, before described. I suspect
it was an old British trackway, afterwards adopted by the Romans, as
the readiest thoroughfare between their stations at Bainbridge and
Appleby. A part of the road above Lunds is still known as the Street.

Lunds, I suspect, also was a centre of Danish piracy in the 10th
century. Several places of like appellation in the North and East
Hidings bear traces of such an occupation, and no more secure refuge
could be imagined for the carrying on of their daring exploits than this
wild and secluded glen. The great city of Lund, in Scania, on the
Baltic, after which many remote Norse settlements were named, was, in
piratical times, one of the largest and wealthiest places in the world. In
the 6th and 7th centuries it had a stationary population of fully 70,000 ;
the city having been built up, and its immense riches obtained, almost
wholly by plunder. The adventurous Northmen, I have reason to
believe, were thick on the ground about here, as well as in the
neighbouring valleys of Garsdale and Dent, while at Kirkby Stephen, at
the northern extremity of Mallerstang, they had undoubtedly a strong
settlement.

Leland, writing about 1540, rather facetiously remarks of Lunds,
" there is a bek cawlled Hell Gille, because it runneth in such a deadly
place/' In old deeds, &c, the locality is generally styled Hellbeck
Lunds, but the fearful-sounding name can have reference only to the
usually clear character of the water in the gill, or to the deep cleft or
hollow in which it runs. It is a frequent prefix in Scandinavian
topography. As Camden points out, the surrounding hills in the 16th
century were the lairs of wild stags, goats, &c, and there is no doubt
that at a late period the wild boar was a common denizen of these little
frequented fells, too. Such places as Grizedale, Swarth Fell, and Wild
Boar Fell, bespeak some favourite haunts of these grizzly brutes. It was,
in fact, on the last-named mountain that Sir Richard Musgrave is
believed to have slain the last wild boar ever seen in Yorkshire or

417

Westmoreland, and a large tusk, it is said of this animal, was discovered
about 1840 enclosed in a leaden coffin in Kirkby Stephen Church !

After passing under the railway-viaduct, beyond the Moorcock, you
ascend to the western watershed of England, where the becks drain into
the Irish Sea. One of the wildest and most retired little glens on this
side, is Grizedale, whose oft-swollen torrent descends the eastern slopes
of Bow or Baugh Fell, and joins the Clough at Garsdale Head, below
Hawes Junction.

In fine weather an enjoyable trip may be had through this solitary
dale, and along the northern skirts of Bow Fell, to Sedbergh, which, from
Hawes Junction, is about 12 miles. The glen may be entered by a gate
on the far side of the road on the right, near the Hawes Junction post
office, or the Garsdale road may be followed down a half-mile, where a
cart-road enters Grizedale, opposite Cote Gill. Here a series of lofty
cascades are observed descending a picturesquely-wooded ravine on the
eastern heights of the valley. By this cart-road, on looking north, you
get a fine view of the scarped edge of Wild Boar Fell, and the high
moorlands that encompass the Grizedale pass. Leaving the lonely Mouse
Sike farm on the left, you may follow the water by the little Methodist
Chapel, where, formerly, was an old Friends' Meeting House, (their
burial ground is now all that remains), and so by the mountain-road up
the Brow to Uldale, whence there is a decent road to Sedbergh.
The whole of Grizedale, including " Ulvedale, and a mediety of
Roathbotone and Herletone in common, and another mediety of
Rauthaboeton, with their common of Sadberge," was given to the monks
of Jervaux by Adam de Staveley, who was living in the reign of John.
The family of Staveley, at that time one of the most ancient and
powerful in Ewcross, enjoyed many important privileges from their
superior lords, the Mowbrays, amongst others the liberty to hunt the wolf
(then royal game) in these remote glens and dales, of which Grizedale
then, -as now, was perhaps the most lonely and retired. Grizedale now
forms part of the parish of Garsdale, which includes some 16,000
acres of enclosed and unenclosed land.

From Hawes Junction through Garsdale to Sedbergh is 10 miles.
The road is broad and good, though subject to disastrous floods. At one
time it was travelled over by a public coach, which ran between Sedbergh
and Hawes, (16 miles) in connection with the coaches between Leeds
and York and Newcastle. Before the Settle and Carlisle line was opened in
1875, Hawes was nearly 17 miles from the nearest railway station. The
London and North Western line through Sedbergh was opened in 1861.

If Garsdale carries in its name the Celtic root-word garu\ i.e. rough,
it is perfectly apt, for the little river Clough (Celt, clogh or clock, stony)
is one of the roughest and most mischievous upland-waters in the

418

county.* There is probably no dale or stretch of country in Yorkshire
that has so many large bridges in the same distance as Garsdale. Some
of these are prodigious and costly constructions, and appear altogether
disproportionate to the ordinary requirements of the stream. But alas !
they are the outcome of a dearly-bought experience, for many thousands
of pounds have been lost in the dale by floods during the past few
decades.

In Garsdale we encounter a different kind of scenery to that which is
such a characteristic of the Craven ' Dales. Instead of the lofty and
successive terraces of Scar Limestone, we have here a complex development
of later growth, comprising alternations of shales, marble-limestone, and
massive sandstones, belonging to the Yoredale series of rocks. The
Graven or Scar Limestone dips to the north, at such a gradient that from
an elevation of about 1100 feet in Kingsdale it falls to about 500 feet in
Dent, and is below the surface of the ground in Garsdale. On the north
the valley is bounded by the bold and lofty bulk of Bow Fell, (2200 feet),
while to the south runs the scarcely- inferior summit of Rysell, or Rise
Hill, whose long straight back is reared against the sky, as level,
apparently, as a line drawn with a ruler. At the west end of Bow Fell
there is a shallow tarn, about a mile round. It yields a fine white sand
that is much sought after by the farmers for whetting scythes. Several
attempts have been made to wade across the tarn, but the bottom is very
loose, and in some places has almost the nature of a quick-sand, while in
others it is as fine as meal.

Garsdale has given birth to several celebrities. At Swarth Gill, a
pleasing old homestead by the way-side, was born in 1740, Dr. John
Haygarth, an eminent physician, who practised at Bath, where he died
in 1827-t Over the porch of his old home here is inscribed 1. 1. H. 1712.
At Garsdale Foot, some distance nearer Sedbergh, the great naval genius,
Dr. Inman, first saw the light. He was for upwards of 80 years
Principal of the Royal Xaval College at Portsmouth, where he died in
1859, aged 83. John Dawson, the celebrated mathematician, was also
a native of Garsdale. He was trainer of eleven senior wranglers, and
counted among his pupils Professor Adam Sedgwick and Dr. Sumner,
late Bishop of Winchester. He died in 1820, aged 86, and there is a
memorial bust of him in Sedbergh church, erected by his "grateful pupils."

* The name also bears some resemblance to the Celtic Car, crooked or winding,
and to the Scotch Carse, low-lying land beside a river. It may, however, have a
Norse meaning. There is a Garsdal in Sweden, and in Norway a Gausdal, watered
by the Loug (a Norweg. word for river). Gausdal is celebrated for its Sanatorium,
a popular place of resort with the Norwegian gentry. In the Gausdal Lovjf,
moreover, there is a suggestion of our Garsdale Clovgh.

f A Memoir (with portrait) of Dr. Haygarth appeared in the Oentt. Mag. for
1827.

419

The old Chapel at Garsdale was, in monastic times, an appendage of
Easby Abbey, Richmond. It was pulled down in 1861, and the present
neat building erected on its site. The old Hall, close by, was a few years
since a well-known hostelry, hnt the license having been dropped, there
is now no inn between the Moorcock in Wensleydale and Sedbergh, a
distance of 12 miles. It is said that the ale brewed for this old " public "
was of a special sort, being extra strong and very intoxicating, and that
no one but a Garsdale man could take a pint and afterwards walk
steadily. It used to be supplied out of glass tubes, and sold according
to standard-measure.

Garsdale.
Prom the Kirk Bridge, downwards, the dale is very attractive, and
now and again the road rises over huge drift-hills, with the stream
prattling in the bottom, beneath climbing belts of flower-spangled woods.
On passing Whitbeck yon begin to ascend, and about 2j miles from
Sedbergh the road crosses the open fell at a good altitude, where the
thrown-up strata on the great Pennine Fault mark the division of the
Silurian rocks of the west, and the Carboniferous hills on the east. The
view of the Howgills — with their peculiar glaciated summits— from this
point is very grand, and the changing lights and shadows, and reflected
hues of a rich sunset, add a charm to the spectacle, which is worth going
far to see.

420

CHAPTER XLV.

Down Dentdale.

A lovely valley — Dent Head — Alpine railway — Monkey Beck — Floods and
avalanches — Lee Gate and the Quaker Chapel — Marble works — Blake Gill —
Cowgill Chapel — Historical sketch — Danish occupation of Dentdale — Elam
family — Mary Howitt and Dee-side mill — Geology of Dentdale — Ibby Peril
and its ghost — Gibshall, and Hope on, hope ever — Gibshall tannery and the
Sedgwicks — Hell's Cauldron — Hackergill Cave — Deepdale.

" m ^ ^ W HE thrice-lovely valley of Dent," — " a terrestrial paradise,"

— " the happy valley of Rasselas," are phrases and
comparisons affectionately bestowed by our early topographers
on the charming little dale that dips westward from Dent
Head to the village of Dent (4 miles), and Sedbergh (10 miles.) "Watered
by the lively Dee, a rapid mountain rivulet rising on the northern slopes
of Blea Moor, which is fed by innumerable becks that descend the
storm-rent flanks of Whernside, Wold Fell, Eise Hill, and Cowgill Wold,
the dale throughout its course abounds in beautiful little ravines,
foaming cascades, and a variety of miniature churns, pots, dubs, and
cauldrons, formed by the solvent action of the water on its limestone bed.
From the little Alpine station at Dent Head (1100 feet), the road
winds rapidly down to Lea Gate, or Tat, as the local pronunciation has
it, and on turning round and looking up we can see the romantic position
of the marvellously-constructed railway, high on the fell side where it
curves over the two lofty viaducts separating Widdale Fell end from Wold
Fell and Blea Moor ; the scene reminding us of similar wonderful
contrivances of man's ingenuity in the tunnelled Alps of Switzerland, or
of the famous mountain-line by Triberg and Villingen, in the South
German Black Forest.

At Lea Gate a steep torrent called Monkey Beck, probably Montey
Beck, from mont (a mountain) and ea (water) has cut deep into the soft
Yoredale beds below Dent Head Station, and during the frightful flood
hereafter mentioned, in July, 1870, the water completely filled the
hollow at the bottom to such a depth, that a lad, in attempting to save
himself by swimming across, was carried away and drowned. This, in past

421

times, has been a terrible nook for floods, gill-bracks, or avalanches of
stone and snow, which on several occasions have resulted in loss of life
and have wrought immense havoc. Some burial entries of victims of a
fearful avalanche that occurred here on January 31st, 1752, are to be
seen in the parish registers at Dent.

At Lea Gate there is an old Quaker chapel (with burial ground),
which owes its origin to the visits and ministrations of George Fox in
the neighbourhood. The Friends, however, are a dimi n ishing body here,
and the little chapel, except on special occasions, is now but sparsely
attended. It is a neat, plain building, with a scrupulously-clean interior,
and has a sun-dial on its south side. On the Harbour Gill road, to the
south of the chapel, are the famous marble works. A very superior
black marble used formerly to be obtained from the Hardraw Scar
Limestone, on which now rest the ponderous piers of the railway-viaduct
at Dent Head. In Blake Gill, a deep ravine under Whernside, and not
far from the marble quarries, there is a fine cascade precipitated over a
ledge of this rock.

Passing the beautifully-placed vicarage, and the National School
(built in 1866), we are soon at the picturesque little Cowgill Church,
sweetly appearing beneath its ivy-cloak, and ensconced beside a shadowy
beck, which tumbles in a tiny cascade into the Dee, below the church-
yard wall. The rustic old bridge here bears an inscription stating that
it was " repaired at the charge of the West Riding, a.d. 1702."

The chapel was originally built by a member of the Cowgill family,
who had, while in Scotland, adopted the doctrine and discipline of the
Presbyterian faith.* It was subsequently (in the early part of this
century) used for a little time by the Independents, and also by the
Quakers. The Sandemanians, a branch from the settlement at Gayle,
near Hawes, had, moreover, established themselves here before the
present church was erected in 1837-8. The foundation stone of the
latter was laid by Professor Sedgwick, and shortly afterwards considerable
trouble arose between the Trustees of the Chapel and the Ecclesiastical
Commissioners, with respect to the proper designation of the chapel.
The parish was known as Cowgill, yet the hamlet has been called
Kirthwaite, or Kirkthwaite, within the recollection of the oldest
inhabitants. Finally, after much wrangling and speculation, a special
Act of Parliament was passed authorising its institution under the name
of Kirkthwaite. It is, however, questionable whether any kirk or place
of worship here is as old as the name. I strongly incline to regard the
latter as a purely Norse compound, from kyr (cows) and thveit (a
clearing), that is a clearing for cattle, made during the Danish occupation

* See A Memorial by the Trustees of Cowgill Chapel, by Adam Sedgwick, LL.D.
(1868).

422

of the valley in the 10th century. In ancient deeds and fines we find
the name written sometimes with the k and sometimes without, but
more frequently without.*

The church, which is dedicated to St. John, underwent in 1875 a
thorough restoration at the sole expense of the Misses Elam, of Thorns
Hall, Sedbergh, who also presented the handsome stained east window
of three lights, in memory of their parents. In the church-yard there
are memorial stones to several members of this family, who once held
extensive properties in the neighbourhood, since acquired by the Marquis
of Headfort.

Following the musical river downwards we arrive at a very picturesque
part, where the water is broken into bright fleecy falls over shelves of
marble limestone, near to a ruined (hosiery) mill. The sides of the river
are spangled with wild flowers, and overhung with bushes and spreading
ferns. It was here that Mary Howitt, while on a visit to Gibshall,
wrote some beautiful lines, which may be found in her collected poems.
It is thus she sings of this sweet scene,

Long trails of cistus-flowers

Creep on the rocky hill ;
And beds of strong spear-mint

Grow round about the mill ;
And from a mountain tarn above,

As peaceful as a dream,
Like to a child unruly,
Though schooled and counselled truly,

Foams down the wild mill stream, —
Into the mad mill stream

The mountain roses fall ;
And fern and adder's tongue

Grow on the old mill wall I

During the construction of the railway at Dent Head the old mill
was put into part repair, and the windows glazed, and for a time it was
occupied by the workmen. A license having been obtained, part of the
premises were converted into a brew-house, and ale was retailed.

The river, all along, runs over the Great Scar Limestone, which here
reaches its lowest visible surface northwards, for owing to its northward
dip it is not seen in Garsdale, being overlaid by the diverse order of
Yoredale rocks, which are well displayed in the deep gills on either side
of the valley, such as Hackergill, Flintergill, Scotchergill, &c.

A little below the old mill the river becomes contracted, and has carved
a passage deep down into the solid rock, and the shadow of overhanging
trees above the high shrub-decked walls gives the gorge a somewhat

* In 1576, Kyrthwaite (Yorkthire Rec. Ser., 5, 89) ; in 1591, Kirkewayte (Ibid.,
7, 162) ; in 1594-5, KierthwaU (Ibid., 8, 19) ; in 1597, Kirthwayte (Ibid., 8, 79).

423

gloomy and romantic appearance. A small, but picturesque fall enters
its upper end. The spot is known ;ia Ibby Peril, and is said to be
haunted by an old witch of low stature, whose ghostly step, and wizened
features obtruding beneath a black poke-bonnet, have frequently, it is
aaid, been observed by erring dales folk, (bob chiefly we believe of the
inebriate class) in the vicinity of the dark ravine. Many startling tales
are told in the dale of surprises from this uncanny creature.

The little hamlet of Gibshall, or Gibbs Ha 1 , is near by, and an old
honse (now a shop) on the north side of the road, is a prominent object
in Mary Howitt's pathetic story of Hope on, hope ever, or a Peep into

Ibby Pehil, Dentdale.

Dent. Here the famous poet-novelist used to visit her Quaker friends,
and here it was, in the words of the story, that Andrew Law, the
schoolmaster at Dent, removed with his child after the death of his
beloved wife Dorothea. Here the good man took the " little parlour
with the chamber over it," and where in the long cold evenings Gibbs
Ha' fireside became the most popular one in the Dale, for it was soon
discovered that the " maister's books were worth a th' kuitting-sangs
as iver were made." The Linns Gill house, mentioned in the story, is
on the south side of Clint and Hackergill, and is now a barn. It was
last occupied by a man who went by the name of " Lite Friday." The
poor fellow had the misfortune to lose his reason, and died a few years
ago in the workhouse.

_424

There is an old out-bouse near the present shop bearing the initials
and date L. S. 1680. The letters stand for Leonard Sedgwick, aa
ancestor of the Sedgwicks of Dent parsonage, who had long been settled
in Dentdale. There are some old tan-pits, now filled up, below
the house, relics of the enterprise of these early Sedgwicks, who made a
fortunate speculation in the purchase of the Gibshall estate, which was
then plentifully covered with oak, of great value at that time in tanning.

At Gibshall a small charge is made for crossing the land to the
famous Hell's Cauldron. This is a dark, deep pool, on the Dee, shut
in with rocks that rise precipitously on three sides of the chasm, and
which render a too close acquaintance with its gloomy recesses somewhat
hazardous. One day last year a sheep slipped into the deep, treacherous
dub, and was only rescued after considerable difficulty with the aid of
a plank and a stout rope. A cascade plunges violently into the eddying
pool, and during a flood the water has been known to cover the high
funnel-shaped rock called the Devil's Pulpit, on the north side of the
cauldron. A little higher up the stream is a low opening in the
limestone known as Hackergill Cave. It is the channel ordinarily of a
pretty strong current of water from Hackergill, but in dry weather it
may be penetrated a distance of about 100 yards, when daylight is seen
above the Hackergill Beck, which indents beneath thick woods the
northern flanks of Whernside. The cave in one or two places used to be
rich in stalactites, but these have been nearly all carried off. Formerly
also among the wild-blooms, — the " visible music " of this sweet parterre,
the shy lily-of -the- valley grew in some profusion above the entrance to
the cave. An old oak and ash wood occupied the declivities of
Hackergill, but moat of this was cut down 25 years ago, and the
present timber planted on its site.

Approaching Dent, the valley expands, and the Dee receives a
copious tributary stream from Deepdale, (in old deeds written Dibdale),
a romantic and solitary glen through which a road runs southward to
Yordas Cave, and through lonely Kiugsdale to Ingleton, — a grand road
which we have previously described.

425

CHAPTER XLVI.

Dent.

Disputed nomenclature of Dent — Meaning explained — An old Danish settlement
— Anciently Deneth — The Dentone of Domesday — Review of the manor: —
Danish proprietors before the Conquest — The Fitz Hughs — Origin of clan of
Metcalfe— Dent " statesmen "—Old local industry—" Terrible knitters i' Dent"
— Aspects of old Dent — Singular incident — Old customs — Parish church —
Description of interior — Local longevity — Grammar School — The Sedgwick s
— Late Aid. Wm. Batty — Prof. Adam Sedgwick, LL.D. — Early history of the
Sedgwicks — Some local institutions — Accommodation at Dent.

HE etymon of Dent has given rise to much unsettled
controversy. It is now the only place in England of that
name. The suggested derivations from dent (a tooth), dene
(a valley), Dee (the river), and danet (the author of evil, vide
Sedgwick) have, I think, no title to consideration whatever. In early
(pre-17th century) deeds and charters I find the name variously written
Dentone (in Domesday), Denton, Dente, Denet, Denette, Deneth,
Dennet, Dent, Danett, and Dant. Dent is, therefore, obviously a
contraction of its oldest recorded spelling, Dentone. I have already
observed how populous the Danes were in these parts, and in Dentdale
the nomenclature of almost every gill, and many field-names, can be
definitely traced to them ; such, for example, are the principal, Deepdale
(D. dyb, deep), Hackergill (D. eke, oak), Scotchergill (D. skogr, a wooded
ravine), and Flintergill,* (D. Jfiot, v. fleotan, a flush or small river
channel.) Dentone is, therefore, the town of the Danes, precisely as
Denmark is the country, or literally, the boundary, of the Danes. In the
eastern parts of England, where Danish settlements were particularly
numerous, we have several Dentons, and many places compounded with
Den, Ten, Din, Dun, &c, which have the same meaning.f

* There is a Fliotsdal on the north side of Snaefell, in Iceland ; also a Flintebek,
near Kiel, in Denmark.

f In the extreme north of Scotland, I may point out, is the headland overlooking
the Pentland Frith, formerly known as Dente or Denet Head (so written by
Camden), but now called Dunnet Head. This country was overrun with the sea-
faring Danes, and there was here a well-known Danish harbour. It is. moreover,

426

Whitaker's assumption that Dent is simply the town of the dene is,
I consider, untenable, both historically and etymologically. This is no
country of Saxon denes, or narrow wooded valleys ; there are no places
locally, that I am aware of, compounded with dene ; they are all gills,
dales, thwaites, scars, and garths, of pure Danish or Norse extraction. I
suspect that before the Conquest the name was pronounced Deneth or
Danet, because the place lay on an edge or promontory in the dale, above
the river, and so-called from the D. aith or eid (frequent in Scandinavian
topography) an edge, elevation, or headland. The name Danet appears
to have lingered orally until the 16th century, for in a letter from James
Ritter to Lord Burghley, dated Sept. 26th, 1589, it is observed, — " I
passed throu the people of two great dales, the one called Dent, or
Danett, as some say, and so like, when the Danes were dryven to any
shift, to be their resting ; as your lordship's lands at Tanfield, sometimes
called Danefield, where yet remain extensies of their camping." When
the place was enclosed by them it became an established community or
town (D. tun, Celt, dun, A.S. tori), and so the Normans, in their official
survey, called it Dentone.*

The manor is thus noticed among the possessions of Earl Allan, in

Domesday :

In Dentone (Dent) to be taxed four carucates, and here may be two ploughs.
Tor fin had a manor here. Now Bodin has it. The whole one mile long and one
broad. Value in King Edward's time, five shillings.

This Torfin is affirmed to be the Thorphin de Thoresby, son of
Dolphin, son of Gospatric, son of Arkyl, a great Danish nobleman, who
was lord of Askrigg, Dent, Sedbergh, Staveley, Marske, and divers other
manors in Richmondshire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland, in the time
of Edward the Confessor, t

remarkable that there should be here a Hackergill or Ackergill Castle, corresponding
exactly with our Dentdale Hackergill. There is a river Hacke (pron. Hack-e) in
Denmark. We haver I think, also certain evidence of Danish colonisation in
another Denton, near Darlington, and in Lyberston (now Lebberetone), near
Scarborough (anciently parcels of the same ownership.) In Caithness, which I
have just cited as well-established Danish ground, there is a large fishing- village
called Lybester, which, for two centuries before the Norman conquest, was a
celebrated Danish haven known as " The Brothers' Port."

* In all probability, however, Gawthorp, on the hill a mile to the west of Dent,
was the older settlement. The gau was an unenclosed district, with independent
jurisdiction, like the Celtic tref, and was a form of government established by the
Saxon colonists long before the Danish usurpation (see Palgrave'a English
Commonwealth, Vol. i.. p. 88.) The suffix thorp, throp is, I may add, not purely
Saxon, but a frequent composition in Danish, and occasionally in Norwegian, place-
names (see Taylor's Words and Places, p. 165).

t See Plantagenet Harrison's Yorkshire (Lowther Pedigree) p. 870; also
Thoresby's Due. Leod., p. 71.

427

The Fitz Ranulphs, who successively bore the titles of Fitz Henry
and Fitz Hugh, held the manors of Dent and Sedbergh for several
centuries after the Conquest. These early lords were possessed of
extensive properties in Teesdale and Durham, and the manors of Dent
and Sedbergh appear always to have been included as a parcel of their
possessions in these territories. In the 35th Henry III. (1250), free
warren was granted to Henry Fitz Eanulph, amongst other manors, in
Sadbergh, Denet, and Garsdale. In the 9th Edw. I. (1280), Hugh Fitz
Henry was summoned to answer the King why he claimed free chase in
Teesdale, and free warren and park in Cotherston, and he made answer
that at the time of the Northmen's Conquest his ancestors held the said
free chase, &c, and that the said free warren was granted by charter
from King Henry III. to Henry Fitz Ranulph, whose heir he is in all
his demesne lands at Thoingarth, Mikelton, Cotherston, Deneth, Ingleton,
Sadberg, Farnham, Tesedale and Holewyk, Burton, Ravensworth, &c.
In 1286 Hugh Fitz Henry levied a fine on £16 lands, and seven bovats
of land, and 100s. rents, with the appurtenances in Patrick Brampton,
Applegarth, Caldyngelby and Stanleye, and of the manors of Ravensworth,
Berewyk-upon-Tees, Mikelton, Dent-in-Lonesdale,Ingleton-in-Lonesdale,
and half the manor of Cotherston, &c, with the advowsons of the
churches of Stanley, St. Rumbaldi, and Bentham.

The last of these old Norman lords was William Fitz Hugh, who
died in 1450, when by inquisition, p.m., he was found disseised of the
manors of Dent and Sedbergh. For some time subsequently they
remained in possession of the Crown, but after the Reformation many
of the tenants acquired the estates, and accordingly the fines, or registers
of property transactions relating to Dent, are of frequent occurrence
during the latter half of the 16th century. Among local property
owners at this period we find the names of Wyllan, Redman, Metcalfe,
Masson, Stockdale, Babthroppe, Owthwat, Smorthwaite, Thistlethwayte,
Burton, Thompson, Bower, Garthwayte, Sigeswike [Sedgwick] Robinson,
&c. The great and powerful clan of Metcalfe, of which Thomas
Metcalfe, Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster, was a prominent figure
in the reign of Richard III., is said to have sprung from Dent. There
was an Adam de Medcalf de Deneke als. Denette, (Dent) who was slain
in single combat in a.d. 1278, and he was the first of the name, which
name appears to have been derived from lands possessed by him on Calf
Fell, near Sedbergh, in the time of the late Crusades.

In 1583, Gregory, Lord Dacre, obtained the manors of Dent,
Ingleton, Sedbergh, and some others in Teesdale from the Crown. In
1670 the manor of Dent was sold by Sir Allen Apsley, to Richard Trotter,
of High Hall, and others, in trust for the general body of tenants. The
land is now freehold, and the freeholders are lords of the manor. Since

428

the introduction of railways and the spread of commerce, the population,
which had always exceeded that of Sedbergh, has greatly declined. Many
-of the old freeholders or " statesmen " have disposed of their estates,
which are being gradually merged into the properties of the large owners.
The principal landowner is now the Earl of Bective, M.P.

At one time hand-knitting constituted an important industry in
Dentdale, and the surrounding villages. Home-knit worsted stockings,
made from the best native wool, used to be turned out by the thousand
from this district, and the " terrible knitters i' Dent " throve mightily
for a long period. Such high favour did the dale-made hosiery obtain,
that during the " seven years' war," in the middle of last century, the
Government sent agents to Kirkby Lonsdale, Kendal and Kirkby Stephen,
for the special purpose of securing for the use of the English army (then
in service on the Continent) the worsted stockings knit by the hands of
the dalesfolk.* There used to be a saying in Dent that a clever lass
there could do four things at once,

She knaw8 how to sing and knit,
And she knaws how to carry the kit,
While she drives her kye to pasture.

But the men, too, were quite as deft as the women with the knitting-
needle, and sometimes they (the men) would undertake long journeys
on horseback to London and other places, in order to deal directly with
the wholesale dealers. This trade is now carried on at Farfield mills.

Dent has changed greatly of late years, although there is still a rather
antiquated look about its one winding thoroughfare, and little cobble-laid
byways. But the main street, though apparently occupying the same
site as in Danish and Norman days, has lost the peculiar features that
were so striking a characteristic of the place a generation or two ago.
These were the projecting galleries and pent-roofs, which were approached
by flights of steps from the outside, and these upper rooms obtruded so
far into the street that two persons on opposite sides might almost have
shaken hands. Old Mr. Haygarth, (the custodian of the Dent Reading
Room), whose father, Matthew Haygarth, was often the companion of
Prof. Sedgwick in his geological rambles, tells me that he recollects on
one occasion, now over fifty years ago, when a wild beasts' show came to
Dent, and the caravans stuck fast in the middle of the street, and could
not proceed owing to the projecting upper storeys of the houses coming
in contact with the tops and sides of the caravans, and that the horses
had to be taken out, and the vans by some means lowered in the shafts,
in order to pass through the village. The incident, as might be expected,
created no little alarm, and many people ran to their homes and securely

* See Clark and Hughes, Life and Letter a of Adam Sed-giciclt, LL.D., D.C.L.^
F.R.S. ; Cambridge (1890) Vol. I., pp. 16-19.

429

fastened themselves in, fully expecting that some of the affrighted
animals would escape, and probably in the end retreat to the adjoining
ravines. The prospect, to say the least, was not comforting. Happily,
however, no accident occurred.

Some very old customs linger in the dales in out-of-the-way places,
and so recently as the Spring of the present year, 1892, the " Riding of
the Stang " took place at Dent.

The old parish church of St. Andrew, at Dent, which has a Norman
tower, waB rebuilt in 1417, and after undergoing various renovations
since that time, was in 1889-90 thoroughly restored, at a cost of about
£8000, raised by public subscription. The high-backed oak pews in the
body of the church were removed and replaced by modern ones. The
church was also re-roofed, and a gallery at the west end was taken down.
The floor of the chancel is of Dent marble, bordered with limestone-
marble obtained from Barrow. The font, which is octagonal, is also of
Barrow marble. There is a beautiful carved oak lectern, by Carlisle, of
Barbon, the gift of Nancy Elyetson Warden, in 1890. Two stain-glass
windows have recently been presented by the Sedgwick family as a
memorial of the family's long connection with Dent. There are two
brasses on the south wall of the nave to the memory of the Sedgwicks
and Collinsons, who were related, and a mural tablet above, to the
Rev. John Sedgwick, M.A., who succeeded his father to the incumbency
of Dent, and who died February 9th, 1859, aged 67. But the chief
memorial in the church, and which has a universal interest, is the tablet
erected to commemorate Professor Adam Sedgwick, LL D., &c, for 55
years Woodwardian Professor of Geology, in the University of Cambridge.
He was born at the parsonage, Dent, March 22nd, 1785, and was
baptized in this church. He died January 27th, 1873, and was interred
in the Chapel of Trinity College, Cambridge.

There are also memorial tablets to other members of the Sedgwick
family, as well as to the families of Fawcett, Beetham, Waddington,.
Hunter, Hodgson, Sill, Brownrigg, Blades, &c. On the west wall is a
framed Lord's Prayer, Ten Commandments, and the Creed, which
bears the date a.d. 1852. There is likewise a painted Royal Arms, dated
1792. The carved oak pulpit has the initials and date, M.T., 1614,.
inscribed upon it. Many of the old oak pews have been retained, and
bear dates and initials of their former owners. The oldest has the letters
I.B. and date 1619, incised in two places on the pew. Others are M.B.,.
1672, I.C. ; G.G., L.G., 1685 ; E.W., 1693 ; R.S., M.S., 1694 ; &c.

In the much-improved churchyard, or Kirk Garth, as it is sometimes
called, there is a stone erected to the memory of Elizabeth King, of Stone
House, who died in 1817, aged 111. This is certainly a notable record,
but in the year 1664 an old Dent man and his son were summoned to give

430

-evidence in a case at York. The father, it is said, was then aged 139,
and the son was over 100. The district has produced many persons who
have lived to an unusual age. There is now living up at Gawthrop,
near Dent, old John Conder, aged 96, and though young, comparatively,
he seems likely to live. Sometimes medical men have attempted to gain
a livelihood by settling in the neighbourhood, but they have soon fled.
There is now no doctor in the dale nearer than Sedbergh.

On the north-west side of the churchyard is the old Dent Grammar
School, which was founded by charter, March 16th, 1603-4, being the
first year of the reign of King James I. It was here that Professor
Sedgwick received his early education, his father having officiated some
time as master. Several men of less eminence have been educated here,
too. The usual plan was for the pupils to get an elementary knowledge
of Greek and Latin at Dent, and then proceed to Sedbergh Grammar
School for two years, after which they became eligible to compete for the
University Exhibitions. This system, so advantageous to boys of ability
in Dent, is practically done away with since the re-organisation of
Sedbergh School. The school-house must have been built soon after the
school was founded. It consisted of an upper and lower room, one for
the head master, and one for the usher. In 1874 it was made into one
room by removing the flooring, and some other alterations were made at
the suggestion of the Education Department. The school still maintains
its good reputation, and since the appointment, in 1861, of Mr. George
Swift, B.A., to the position of master, several scholars have proceeded to
the Universities, and now hold important public positions. The late
Alderman William Batty, J.P., who entered the Manchester City
Council in 1868, and was Mayor of the city in 1888-89, was, I may add,
an old pupil of the school, and a native of Dent. Mr. Batty, who always
delighted to visit the scene of his boyhood, died at his Southport
residence in March, 1892.

Although no account of Dent can be considered complete without
some particular references to Professor Sedgwick, — Adam o' th' Parson's,
as he used in his early days to be familiarly called, — yet it is needless to
add much to the mass of literature that has already been written about
this great and good man. In the recent very valuable biography by
Messrs. J. W. Clark, M.A., F.S.A., and T. McKenny Hughes, M.A.,
F.R.S., several pages in the first volume of the Life are occupied with
an attempt to solve the etymology of Sedgwick, while most unfortunately
nothing is said of the early history of the family.

According to the Poll Tax returns for a.d. 1879, there were four
families of the name living in Dent, each of which appellations, with
that pleasing higgledy-piggledy which characterises the orthography of
the period, is spelled differently, viz., Sygglemvyk y Seglewyk, Segheswyk y

481

and Segleawyk* Probably the le, which occurs in three out ot the four
renderings, should be h, and was misread, or badly copied, by illiterate
scribes. That some of these Dent members were people of substance,
even at that period, is evident from the amount of tax paid. In the
next century a family of the name of Sigeswike was living at Walburn
Hall, in the parish of Downholme, four miles north of Leyburn. The
property was acquired by marriage with the heiress of Peter Greathead,
and remained a possession of the Sigeswicks or Sidgewicks for upwards
of a century .f Whether these were connected with the Dent Sedgwicks
is not yet proved. The first appearance of the family as property owners
in Dentdale, so far as I can make out, is in 1597, when by fine passed
39-40th Eliz., Leonard Sigeswike and William Burton are entered as
plaintiffs, and William Robinson and Edith, his wife, and Richard
Grenicar and Christiana, his wife, as deforciants, touching 17 messuages
with lands in Kirthwayte in Dent and Dibdale [Deepdale].J

In 1379 a Thomas de Sigeswik', and wife, were living at Kirkby
Malzeard, near Ripon, who would appear to be the progenitors of the
Sigeswicks or Sidgwicks afterwards connected with Fountains Abbey.
George Sigeswike was a shepherd of the Abbot in 1480, and a member
of this family settled on Malham Moors, at the time they were in the
possession of that monastery.§ We have thus three contemporary
families, seated in different localities, yet at no great distance from each
other, — Ripon and Malham, Downholme, and Dentdale, and all, happily,
agreed as to the orthography of the family name, viz., Sigeswike. But
whether they all sprang from the same stock is a genealogical point that
needs settling.

In the main street at Dent a large rough block of shap granite is
inscribed, " Adam Sedgwick." It was raised by subscription, and, while
appropriately commemorating this honoured name, serves the useful
purpose of a drinking-fountain.

In addition to the old Church and Grammar School, there are a few
other institutions of interest at Dent, The Congregationalism have a
Chapel here, dating from 1809, or shortly after George Whitfield's visit
to Dent. There are also Wesleyan and Primitive Methodist Chapels,

* In the property fines of the Tudor period alone the name is spelled twenty
different ways.

t In a window in the north aisle of the parish church at Downholme, the arms
of this family are thus depicted : Or, a chevron gules between three bells proper.

% But in 1561, and subsequently in the reign of Elizabeth, the family held
various lands and messuages in Sedbarrgh als. Sedberghe als. Sedbraughe and
Ingmyre. In 1561, Ralph Sygwyke also held the manor of Bolton on Swale. See
Yorkshire Bee. Ser., vol. 2, pp. 245, 247, 285, 287 ; 5, pp. 3, 177 ; 8, p. 79.

§ See p. 356.

432

and a small Meeting House for the Society of Friends. The latter is an
old establishment, formed some time after the new Society built the
famous little house of worship at Brigg Flatts, near Sedbergh. The Dale
became a well-known stronghold of Quakerism after the visits of
Qeorge Fox, and its supporters suffered many hardships during the
nnhappy period of religious discord. In 1682 George and Anthony
Mason, of Dent, and John Dent and James Dickinson, of Sedbergh, had
cattle taken from them worth £51, fpr non-attendance at the Parish
Church. A National School for boys and girls was erected in 1845, and
in 1881 the usefnl Beading Boom was transferred to new and more
commodious premises.

There are two or three small but comfortable inns at Dent, besides
several private houses, where visitors are accommodated. The principal
Inn, the Sun, has a pictorial sign-board with inscription, similar to one
at Kirkby Stephen, which may tempt many travellers, who are not tbe
exclusive patrons of Adam's fountain, to wet a parched lip with the
" best ale under the Sun."

Our view of Dent, we may add, is taken from Throstle Hall, on the
south side of the village, and is from a photograph by Mr. Qeorge Swift,
of Dent.

438

CHAPTER XLVII.

Flood Scenes in Dentdale.

Gill scenery near Dent — The raven in Dentdale — Recent remarkable flood —
Author's experiences — Lake scene from Dent churchyard — View of Colin Scar
and Hackergill — The Scene in Flintergill and High Gill — No market at Dent
— Adventure to Sedbergh — Renewal of storm — Aspects at Gate House— A
break-down — Peculiar odour — View of Brackengill — A "cloud" cataract —
Sublime water-scene — Other floods — Fatal waterspout on Whernside.

IE have far from exhausted the scenic interest about Dent in
the places already described. A walk up the rock-paved
shades of Garda, in Flintergill, close to the village, is
delightful in dry weather, and to the geologist the various
sections above the Scar Limestone afford a rich treat. Helm Oil],
Dove Cote Gill, (with its small cave), Pease Gill, Oliver Gill, and High
Gill are also ravines of great beauty and scientific attraction. In High
Gill, above Gawthorp, there is a long cave, which at one part of its
course expands into a lofty chamber, revealing a fine cascade. Colm
Scar, too, is a magnificent upheaval of " blue rag," which forms some
grand precipices overlooking the dale on the south. In this locality a
pair of handsome ravens reared five young ones in the Spring of 1892.
The nest was unfortunately discovered by a stranger from Lancashire,
and all the birds were carried off. This is greatly to be deplored, as the
raven, which is one of the most striking ornaments of our mountain
cliffs, is becoming almost as rare as the eagle in England.*

All these very deep and narrow gills, lying on highly-inclined slopes,
are the channels sometimes of sudden and prodigious floods. On the
morning of August 25th, 1891, the writer witnessed what was, without
doubt, one of the biggest floods of the present century. Every gill-beck,
which a few hours previously had been but a purling stream, became the
flood-gate, as it were, of a furious torrent of magnificent and startling
proportions. The water in the valley bottom was in some places a good
half-mile across, and every moment saw it grow wider and deeper. Low

* Early in the century the raven appears to have been somewhat numerous in
the dale, and in the parish accounts are entries of 2d. a head paid for its destruction.

484

trees and walls gradually sank out of sight, and cows and sheep even,
which had been hurriedly driven up 'to the hill sides, stood motionless
and looked on, apparently, with no little dismay.

The scene from Dent churchyard was, indeed, most striking. Though
it continued raining in sheets, everyone in the village turned out of doors
to view the great flood. They came out covered with thick rugs,
macintoshes, and open umbrellas, and many were the exclamations made,
and visible expressions of astonishment, among the group of onlookers.
" Nay, I nivver seed owt like this afore, 1 ' one old native exclaimed ;
" Well, this licks all !" said another, &c.

From a farmer's point of view it was a bad look-out, but as a
spectacle it was marvellously grand. Looking down the dale the
picturesque round knoll of Helm Knot, with the wide-spreading wood-
fringed lake beneath, reminded me not a little of the view of Helm Crag,
over Grasmere, in the Lake District. Over all the hill tope the grey
clouds hung closely, while southwards the wild, dark front of Colm Scar
looked unusually stern and weird, scored as it was with many quick-
descending rills, — frozen by distance,— while three of them, broader and
stronger than the rest, literally leaped from the summit in white waves
down the jagged face of the great storm-battered cliffs. Innumerable
rattling torrents fretted the steep hill-sides : one of the most prominent
being a large and grand white wave of foam shooting down from the
mist at the head of Hackergill, which then disappeared in the mazes
of the dark wood below.

Accustomed as one generally is to walking up the almost dry bed of
Flintergill, the transformation in that umbrageous and precipitous ravine
was, indeed, marvellous. It was filled from bank to bank with deep,
tawny foam, and the hurrying rocks rolling and smashing against each
other, sounded like subdued thunder, while the tall, dark pines and
overhanging foliage added not a little to the grandeur and impressiveness
of the spectacle. The bridge at the foot of the gill was inadequate to
discharge beneath it the whole of this great torrent, which, washing over
the road, filled it as far as Dent Bridge to a depth of at least three feet.
The water, likewise, rose to within two or three feet of the field-gate
below Low Hall, and the Holme, too, was under water, a circumstance
never known to have occurred before. In several places at the west end
of the village, the macadam in the road burst and sent up spouts of
water a foot in height, and the same curious phenomenon was observed
on the top of a low hill, in a grass field close by, doubtless caused by
underground streams collapsing against the hard rock. Water, indeed,
came out of places not known before. The cave in High Gill was choked
from floor to roof, and from its mouth there poured a boiling flood of
amber-coloured foam, which, uniting with the swollen torrent in the gill,

435

created such a current of air that it was impossible to breathe while
standing within twenty yards of the fork of the waterfall.

As it happened to be market-day in Dent, the market, of course,
could not be held, and there were no arrivals. But the postman with
the mails from Sedbergh fortunately arrived in Dent before the flood
was at its height.

In the afternoon, as it shewed signs of clearing, I set out for and
managed to reach Sedbergh (a walk of 6 miles), although the venture, as
it proved, would have been much better postponed. The rain again fell
in torrents,* smoking mists hugged the mountain summits, and a
thousand white rills descended from them and plunged down the
long seething slopes. Large rocks were rolled into the road, fences
were washed away, and rushing spouts tumbled at rapid intervals through
gaps they had made in the walls by the road side. Opposite Gate
House the valley was one wide lake, and the garden before the house had
the appearance of a miniature reservoir, caused by the overflowing of a
fountain, which fell in a broad cascade over the garden wall bounding
the highway.

On mounting the road, which was like ascending a waterfall, I
stumbled against a drowned calf, and a little further on encountered a
deserted cart, with broken shafts, which I was told belonged to a man
who had attempted to reach Dent from Sedbergh with goods for the
market, but after one or two narrow escapes and a final breakdown, he
had been obliged to give up the journey.

At one part of the way, and for a distance of several hundred yards,
where the dale was narrowest, a peculiar sulphureous smell pervaded the
atmosphere, which I was unable satisfactorily to account for. The rain
storm was unaccompanied by either thunder or lightning, but the
disturbed electrical condition of the atmosphere had, doubtless, something
to do with producing such an odour. The clash of rocks, combined
with the rush of waters down the mountains, was sublime, and many
were the very striking scenes witnessed on this adventurous trip. But
the most remarkable spectacle along the whole route was undoubtedly
the waterfall in Brackengill, on the opposite side of the valley. Never,
perhaps, has mortal eye beheld a more sublime water-scene in the county
of broad acres ! The summit of the towering gill was capped with
blooming heather, while close above the soft leaden-grey clouds loomed
mistily. An immense volume of water, that appeared to come out of
the clouds, descended in one long, continuous foam-white cataract, many
yards in width, and visible through its whole descent of more than 500
feet down the lofty umbrageous glen. I could not help being struck by
the resemblance which it bore to the famous Giessbach Falls, on Lake

* At Brigg Flatts, Mr. Handley's rain-guage registered 5*30 inches in 30 hours !

436

Brienz, which are considered by many as the finest falls in Switzerland,
yet this even sank by comparison with the majestic, though exceptional,
scene in Dentdale.

The damage done in the dale was very great, and when the water
had subsided, the fields in the valley bottom were filled with a thick
deposit of sand, gravel, and stones. On Rise Hill, north-east from Hall
Bank, the ground was found to have been curiously ploughed up for a
long distance, and a large hole was made in the earth, probably caused
by a waterspout.

This grand dale has been the scene of many another huge flood,
destructive alike to life and property. The most awful within living
memory was that which occurred on the 9th of July, 1870, during the
construction of the Dent Head railway. No one ever remembers seeing
the rain fall more densely and heavily, or the river rise and fall more
quickly. The men were working on the line, when a violent and terrific
thunderstorm broke out ; then, all at once, like the crashing of a
hundred guns, an immense waterspout burst on the heights between Blea
Moor and Whernside, and the torrent rolling furiously down, converted
the gorge into a great river, and in a few minutes Blea Moor tunnel was
choked to the roof ! One workman, suddenly taken by the in-rushing
tide, was lifted off his feet and drowned ; another in the tunnel instantly
jumped on to a waggon, and raising his head in a cavity in the roof,
kept it there until the water had somewhat subsided ; he then pluckily
swam out and was saved. Some others had narrow escapes, too.

The scene at the precipitous head of the dale was, as may be imagined,
appalling ; the descending volume spreading over the long declivity
and carrying down, like wickets, ponderous beams of wood, and other
material from the railway works. As the stream fell from an altitude of
about 1100 feet at Dent Head to about 450 feet opposite Dent village, —
a distance of 4 miles, — the very rapid current, with its cargo of wreck,
could be easily distinguished amid the wide expanse of water in the
valley bottom. Walls and bridges were swept away, trees uprooted, and
otherwise considerable damage was done.

487

CHAPTER XLVIII.

Sedbebgh.

Extent of Yorkshire — Physical characteristics at Sedbergh — Beautiful scenery —
Cautley Spout and the Howgill Fells — Glorious view — Situation of the town
— Whitaker's interpretation of Sedbergh — Author's view — Sedbergh a Roman
outpost — Castle How — Saxon and Dane — Meaning of Sedbergh explained —
Local pronunciation — Position at the Conquest — Grant of manor to the
Staveleys — The Clap ham a — History of the manor — Assessment in 1584 —
Monastic possessions at Sedbergh — Appropriation of the church by Coverham
Abbey — Description of the church — Local charities — Grammar School — Some
men of note educated at the school — Brim haw — Market cross — Stocks and
ducking-stool — Inns.

RRIVED afc the good old town of Sedbergh, at the extreme
north-west corner of the county, we are still in the " little
kingdom " of Yorkshire, notwithstanding that it is a good
hundred miles, as the crow flies, away to Flamborough Head,
on the far eastern border !

Although we are in Yorkshire, the physical characteristics of the vicinity
of Sedbergh resemble much more the finer features of Westmoreland
than of the big shire, inasmuch as the great Pennine system of faults
cuts off the predominant strata of Yorkshire on the east, from the
upheaved Silurian slates, limestones, and sandstones, that combine to
make up the grand scenery surrounding Sedbergh. Here we find the
contorted slates and grits of the lofty Howgills, brought up to a level
with the carboniferous grits and limestones of the mountains eastwards.
All the principal valleys in this district lie along lines of displacement,
and one of the most interesting phenomena connected therewith, is that
exhibited in Rawthey vale, at the foot of Winder and Crook, where a
triangular surface of old red conglomerate, which forms the base of the
carboniferous limestone, and lies unconformably on the Silurian grits,
extends eastwards from Sedbergh, and is a noticeable feature in the bed
of the Rawthey and some of its tributaries, little more than a mile from
the town. The scenery hereabouts is delightful, and along the river are
many very charming peeps, while to the scientific enquirer, in almost
any department, it is a field of unbounded interest.

438

One of the grandest tripe from Sedbergh is that by Rawthey aide to
the well-known Cautley Spout, (5 miles), where the water comes down
from a height of 800 feet by a series of leaping cascades, and when
there is a sufficient volume, the scene among these dark weathered cram
is sublime. The Cautley Crags lie just within the Yorkshire border,
while Yarlside, (2097 feet), a fine dome-shaped mountain on the opposite
aide of the pass, is in Westmoreland. There is a rough but practicable
route on to the Calf, (2200 feet), the highest of the Howgill Fells, this
way, which on one occasion we ascended, and then took the old pack-
horse track through Bowderdale — a houseless and romantic valley— to

On the Rawthey, Sedbebgh.

With and Kirkby Stephen. At the summit, clear as a bell, we saw the
whole array of Lake Mountains, backed by the towering cone of Scafell
Pike, seeming more of heaven than of earth, while to the south and east
the great Yorkshire hills spread far and wide on the horizon ; old
Ingleborough again conspicuous above the rest, appeared with a sun-lit
cloud about his dusky head, which shone like a glory round the
brows of a saint !

The situation of Sedbergh is singularly picturesque, and being at
the outlet of three main valleys it forms a capital centre from which to
explore the attractive neighbourhood. Whitaker, with his wonted
partiality for great historical personages, discovers in Sedbergh the name

439

of a venerable Saxon, one Sadda. But by what process of orthographical
reasoning he tortures the prefix Sed, which occurs in Domesday, (as
Sedberge), into Sadda, I cannot conceive. Moreover, we have absolutely
no record of any such supposed chief, who is mythically thought to have
appropriated to himself the berg, or hill fortress, at the back of the town.
Sedbergh I take to have been a Celtic settlement, seized by the
Romans after the construction of their military way from Overborough
to Appleby, which lay close to the west of the town. The situation of
the place is such as to countenance the belief that it was an outpost, or
one of the Roman diverticula, or mustering-stations, where a reserve of
men and horses was always to be had in cases of emergency ; while the
fortified hill, — a huge glacial mound, — now known as Castle How, would,
it is reasonable to suppose, be secured for the purposes of a " watch " at
so important an outlet, and from which the approach of an enemy could
be well observed. There are traces of Roman earthworks near Sedbergh,
and consequently it is highly probable that the berg, above mentioned,
was appropriated by these skilful invaders for the purpose named. It is
not unlikely, too, that the value of the site would be enhanced by its
affording the readiest approach through Garsdale, to the camps at Gayle
and Bainbridge.

That the place, too, was occupied by the Anglo-Saxons and Danes,
there can, I think, be no doubt. The old thoroughfare that runs
eastwards, or Dentwards, out of the town is still known by its Saxon or
Danish name of Finkle Street. But with respect to the name of
Sedbergh itself, I judge this to be nothing more than a survival of the
Celtic 8uidh, A.S. set, Dan. sed, sid, meaning a seat, possession, or
settlement, and identical with numerous other places in which this affix
occurs, and to which I have referred, in the names of ancient settlements,
like Settle, Sedbusk, Selside, Appersett, (anciently written Aperside), Ac.
Sed, in this sense, is a composition found in Danish topography, but
there is, I may add, in Jutland, a place called Sebber or Sebbar, a form
of spelling sometimes met with in old deeds, &c., relating to Sedbergh.*
Consequently Sedbergh means the settlement by the hill, a name that was
given by its Norman possessors, because they found there an old
community or settlement.

At the Conquest Sedbergh, like Ingleton, was a dependent manor of
Whittington, previously held by Earl Tosti, brother of Harold the
Dauntless. It was a place of no great importance, and was not near so
populous as either Dent or Ingleton. Dent, in fact, at the Conquest was

* An instance occurs in a fine levied 3rd Henry VIII. (1511) between Geoffrey
Myddelton, Esq., Reginald Thyrnbeke, and John Smarte and Elena, his wife,
touching 12 messuages with lands in Sebbar (^Yorkshire Bee. Ser., ii., 24). Even
yet there is a frequent disposition locally to pronounce the name this way.

440

an independent manor, and always had a larger population than Sedbergh
up to the present century. In 1379, for instance, there were 56 married
and 18 single adult taxpayers at Dent, while at Sedbergh the numbers
were 44 and 8 respectively. Consequently the population in Dent was,
at that period, about one-third more than its neighbour.*

Sedbergh was constituted a part of the great barony of the Mowbraya,
whose chief stronghold in Lonsdale, erected out of the material of a
Saxon Keep, lay at Burton. The manor of Sedbergh, with that of Dent,
and other extensive properties occupying some of the wildest parts of the
division of Ewecross, was, at an early period, sub-feudated to the family
of Staveley, but the precise era at which the grant took place I have not
been fortunate to discover. That it occurred soon after the partition of
the barony at the Conquest is very probable, for Thoresby has shewn,
with great reason, that this wealthy house was nobly descended from a
family of Danes, which for a long period before the Conquest, held
Sedbergh and the whole of Garsdale and Dent. Yet Poulson, in a
pedigree of the Claphams, of Burton-Pidsea, in Holderness, states that
the Conqueror gave William, son and heir of Arthur de Clapham, the
manors of Dent and Sedbergh, in 1 072, and that Robert, son of William
de Clapham, married a daughter of Tunstall, of Thurland Castle, f Bat
by what instrument are we to prove the interposition of this family on
the old Staveley possessions ?

Adam de Staveley died in 1225, and left an only daughter, Alice, a
rich heiress, married to Henry Fitz Ranulph, of Ravensworth, from whom
the Parrs, and the Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery are descended. J
In the Nomina Villarum, 9th Edward II. (1815), Henricus fil. Hugonis
is returned as lord of the manor of " Sadburgh" and " Dent." These manors
continued in the possession of this family until the reign of Henry VI.,
as stated in our account of Dent. Subsequently Sedbergh was held by
the Scropes, and the Stanleys, Lords Monteagle,§ and afterwards the
manor fell to the Crown. In 1583 the following fine was passed :

Plaintiff : The Queen. Deforciants, Gregory Fynes, Lord Dacre, and Ann, his
wife. Manors of Ram bald, Ovington, Dent, Ingleton, Sedbourgh, Askrigge,
Fremyngton, als Ferny ngton, Raven swathe, ah Ravensworth, Eastapplegarth,
Thorpe, Richmondes, Dalton, Quassheton (Whashton), Clesby, Barwick upon Teys,
Conderston, and Caldecott.||

* Under the capitation tax for this year, Dent also contributed a larger amount
than Sedbergh, but in the Journal of the Yorkshire Archaeological Association,
from which our transcript was made (as stated on p. 29), there is an error in the
sums total, in each case of 10s. too much, which should read : Dent, 25s. 8d M and
Sedbergh, 17s. 8d. {See pp. 58, 60.) At Ingleton, the seat of the largest taxpayer
in GwecroKs, the levy, it may be noted, amounted to 27s. 2d.

t See History of Holderness, Vol. ii., p. 42.

J Dodsworth.

§ Yorkshire Bee. Ser., Vol. v., pp. 6, 55, 87. || Ibid., Vol. viL, p. 7.

441

In the 48rd Elizabeth (1600) Richard Theakston conveyed to Sir
Thomas Strickland all that moiety and half part or portion of the manor
of Sedbergh, with the appurtenances, commonly called or known by the
name of Scrope's Land ; and by fine passed in the same year, Roger Otway,
Esq., of Middleton, Thomas Scriven, and Richard Theakstone, granted
and conveyed to Sir Thomas Strickland, Knight of the Bath, in
consideration of £600 paid by him, all the manor and lordship of
Sedbergh, late in the possession of Lord Monteagle, with all rights and
privileges belonging to it.

In the surveyor's assessment for 27th Elizabeth (1584) of the various
parishes in the wapentake of Ewecross, " Ingleton " is rated at 4s.,
"Dente" 4s., "Sedgbrge" 4s., and "Claphame" 2s. 8d.

Several of the monasteries had estates at Sedbergh, and in the 3rd
Edward III. (1830) the church of St. Andrew, Sedbergh, a foundation
of the early Mowbray s, was appropriated on a petition of the King to
the Abbey of Corham or Coverham, and it continued to form part of the
endowments of that house until the Dissolution. The particulars of its
confirmation are recited in the Monasticon, from which I quote :

The church of St. Andrew here [Sedbergh] was given to this abbey [Coverham]
by Sir Ralph le Scroope, and was appropriated thereto ; but the Abbot and Convent,
being apprehensive of the trouble about it, applied to King Edward III. to write
to the Pope to Bend his protection. It was accordingly appropriated, and the
Archbishop reserving the annual pension of £1 10s. 4d. per annum to him and his
successors, and £2 to the Archdeacon of Richmond. In A.D. 1332, at Burton, 9th
of April, this vicarage was endowed, viz. : in the lesser mansion-house of the
rectory, which M. de Touthorpe, then rector of the mediety of this church had, and
in £1 2b. lOd. annual rent, and in all tythes of mills, calves, foals, pigs, goats,
brood geese, hens, ducks, pigeons, line, hemp, leeks, herbs, eggs, and in all
mortuaries, and oblations. Also in 20 marks in money, payable by the Abbot and
Convent of Coverham, quarterly, every year ; for which the vicar shall, at his own
costs, serve the said church, with its chapels ; and the Abbot and Convent bear all
other burdens, ordinary and extraordinary.

And on the Kal. (1st day) of July, a.d. 1335, William Melton, Archbishop of
York, by the mediation of Galfrid le Scroope, then patron of it, and with the
consent of the dean and chapter of York, made this ordination, viz. : that John de
Popilton, then vicar of the church, and his successors, should receive the tythes of
foals, calves, pigs, when the tythe in a whole animal is received, and when the lot
by Caveling is due, and that the Abbot and Convent of Coverham, shall for ever
peaceably receive the tythes that is not in an entire animal, scilicet per Caveling,
or without Caveling.

The Abbot lett the whole rectory before the dissolution of monasteries, for
£41 10h.

In an inventory of the effects of Thomas de Dalby, Archdeacon of
Eichmond, dated May 2 1st, a.d. 1400, is entered under " Debita non
clara et non levabilia " :

Pro pensione in ecclesia de Sadbargh in decanatu de Lounesdale, xl*.
Pro fructibus vicarise de Sadbergh, Ixvj*. viiirf.

442

The first item refera to the 40s. paid yearly to the Archdeaconry of
Richmond, in addition to the 20s. annually received by the Archbishop
of York, of whose diocese the parish of Sedbergh formed part np to the
Dissolution. Connyside Priory likewise received 20s., and the canons of
Eggleston Abbey 4s. annual rent from Sedbergh. At the Dissolution
the tithes of the rectory amounted in all to £41 10s., viz. : in wool and
lambs, £80 ; grain, £9 10s. ; hay, £2. The patronage was then given
to the master and fellows of Trinity College, Cambridge, with whom it
is still vested.

The church, which, as stated, is of Norman origin, and has some
pillars and arches of the time of Henry I., underwent a complete
restoration in 1885-6. The interior has now a most comfortable and
engaging appeal ance, while the historic character of the building has
been admirably preserved. There are a few ancient monuments, notably
to Sir John Otway, Kt. (died 1693), hereafter mentioned, and John
Dawson, the mathematician, whom we have noticed in our account of
Garsdale ; also some beautiful memorial windows.

There have been numerous charitable bequests by former inhabitants
of the parish, amongst the principal donors being the families of
Robinson, Harrison, Holmes, Speight, Croft, and Fawcett. Furthermore,
in 1784, Richard Holme, of Lowther, gave £100 for the foundation of a
Charity School for the education of poor children in the parish ; and in
1854 Mr. Thomas Palmer, in his lifetime, founded and endowed six
cottages, now known as the Sedbergh Widows' Hospital.

The old Grammar School at Sedbergh, founded in 1528 by Dr.
Roger Lupton, Provost of Eton and Canon of Windsor, whom the great
Roger Ascham praised as " a man of pious memory," is now, under the
provisions of the late Endowed Schools Act, one of the best and most
nourishing establishments of its kind in the country. It has had the
advantage of a rich foundation, and since its reorganisation under the
new trust, nearly £80,000 has been expended in the erection of buildings,
which include the various premises of the school and masters' houses,
throughout built and planned in the most approved style. There is a
capital cricket-ground attached, which, two or three years ago, was
enlarged, and at the same time an excellent gymnasium and swimming-
bath were added, the gifts of Sir Francis S. Powell, Bart., M.P., and
W. H. Wakefield, Esq., — former pupils of the school.

Among the men of note of an earlier generation who have been
educated at this famous school, may be mentioned, Dr. John Barwick
and Sir John Otway, prominent Monarchists in the time of Charles I.
and Charles II. ; Dr. George Mason, Bishop of Sodor and Man,
Dr. Walker King, Bishop of Rochester, Sir Isaac Pennington, professor
of physic at Cambridge, Dr. Anthony Fothergill, F.R.S., Dr. Inman,

443

senior wrangler in 1800, Prof. Adam Sedgwick, LL.D., F.R.S., &c. In
addition to these, a number of others of a later period are referred to in
some very interesting sketches of former life at the school, furnished to
the Sedberghian last year by Archdeacon Wilson, Principal of Clifton
College, who was a pnpil from 1853 to 1855. A fellow pupil of the
school was W. Wordsworth, a grandson of the poet, who went to Oxford,
and is now, and has been for some years, the head of the Educational
Department in Bombay. The Head Master at that time was the Rev.
J. Harrison Evans, who was " third wrangler, a first-class classic, and an
excellent scholar of the old school." In 1857, a well-merited testimonial
was presented to him, on which occasion Archdeacon Wilson acted as
secretary. Nearly £300 was raised, and with it Mr. Evans built the
Covered Market and Reading Room as a gift to the town. For a short
time (1887-8) Hartley Coleridge, the poet, was a master at the school.

Brimhaw Farm, near Sedbergh, is the birth-place of Sir James
Whitehead, who settled in London, and who, in 1888, was elected to the
high office of Lord Mayor.

Sedbergh was constituted a market-town at an early period, and an
old cross, which stood on the north side of the church-yard, was taken
down along with the stone steps forming the base, now about twenty
years since. There was formerly also a docking-stool, as well as u pair
of stocks maintained by the parish for the benefit of the unroly.

Besides the White Hart, Black Bull, and Red Lion, there was, in
coaching times, another inn, the King's Arms, now a shop, which at one
time was the only posting-house in the town.

444

CHAPTER XLIX.

On the Yorkshire Borderland.

Ingmire Hall — Brigg Flatte Meeting House — The oldest but one Quaker
establishment in England — Historical sketch — Old coaching inn — Beckside
Hall and Sir John Otway— Otway family — Middleton Hall and the MiddJetonB
— Description of the building — Ancient chapel — Grimes Hill — Middleton
church — Hawkin Hall, and the poet Milton — Roman mile-stone, a rare relic-
Scenery of Lune — Barbon and the ShuttleworthB — Aspects of the village—
The church — Up Barkindale to Dent — The Dent Fault

complete the circle of this romantic district, I shall now
notice a few places and objects but little visited, which lie
between Sedbergh and Kirkby Lonsdale, where the first
division of onr work terminated.
On leaving Sedbergh our road traverses the beautiful and well-kept
park in front of Ingmire Hall, a handsome castellated mansion, now
the seat of Mrs. Upton-Cottrell-Dormer. The house occupies a charming
site, partly enclosed with fine woods, backed by the lofty purple heights
of Winder, and the more distant gloom-shrouded precipices of the
Howgills.

A short lane now leads off to the left, where we may obtain a peep at
the secluded but famous little Friends 1 Meeting House at Brigg Flatte,
which is said to be, with one exception, the oldest Quaker establishment
in England. It was built in 1675, as the date above its original
picturesque ivy-grown porch indicates. George Fox, the founder of
Quakerism, had visited the neighbourhood long ere this, but about the
year in question a large public gathering, numbering some hundreds,
assembled to hear him preach, and this interesting little fabric was the
outcome of their espousal of the new creed. In course of time increased
accommodation became necessary, and ultimately it was decided that
this want might be met, without disturbing the original structure,
and involving the least expense, by the simple erection of a gallery.
This was accordingly done in the year 1711 ; the Friends' clubbing
together ; some providing the oak from their estates, and others carting

\
s

445

it free of cost, while another generous-souled worker, a Quaker named
Copeland, offered to put up the gallery for £5, a job which could not be
done profitably at the present time for ten times the amount. John
Ayrey was the prime mover in the matter, and there is a now almost
illegible stone bearing his initials and the date 1712, let into the burial-
yard wall.

This sacred little plot of ground has been used for purposes of burial
now oyer two centuries, and interments are still made in it. The few
low headstones, it may be remarked, are recent additions to this otherwise
plain and un-memorialled spot. There is an old house near, (once used
for flax dressing), formerly a residence of the Ayreys, and which bears
the name and date J. and E. Ayrey, 1742. This John Ayrey was the
son of the above John, whose dated headstone we have noted above.
The good house near is now occupied by Mr. John Handley t who is a
well-known meteorologist, and a member of the old body of worshippers
here. The house has a similar inscription upon it, namely, A. I. E. t
1743, that is John and Elizabeth Ayrey.

Two miles from Sedbergh we pass a couple of very old mile-stones,
and at the junction of the ways here there is a white house, which, in
coaching days, was an inn called the Black Horse, — this being the crest
of the Upton family, — "a horse caparisoned upon a ducal coronet."
The picturesque road now turns over the Rawthey Bridge, and we quit
Yorkshire for Westmoreland.

On the Fell side, near the Hall Beck, about a mile north of Middleton
Hall, is a notable old mansion called Beckside Hall, which is now a
farm-house. It is celebrated as the birthplace, in 1620, of Sir John
Otway, Vice-Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster, a great Royalist,
and an eminent counsellor during the unsettled times of the Civil War.
He afterwards lived at Ingmire Hall, mentioned above. He died in
1698, and there is a memorial of him in Sedbergh church, where he was*
interred.

The family of Otway was originally settled at Clohonan Castle, now
Castle Otway, in Ireland, and one of Sir John's daughters, Anne, went
to reside in Ireland, and subsequently married there. It is not
improbable that this Sir John Otway was a relation of the celebrated
but unfortunate poet and dramatist, Thomas Otway, who is reputed to
have died of starvation in 1685. They were contemporary, and both
received at the Restoration many favours from the Royal hand.

Middleton Hall, a large, fine old manor-house, is now partially in
ruins, and occupied as a farm. For over three centuries it was the
property and seat of one of our oldest English county families, — the
Middletons, represented by branches at Warton, Ilkley, Stubham, and
Stockeld. The family here had numerous distinguished connections.

446

Formerly, in the hall was to be seen the arms (now defaced) of Middleton
impaling Lowther, erected to commemorate the marriage of a daughter
of John Middleton, of Middleton Hall, with Sir Richard Lowther, High
Sheriff of Cumberland in 1567 and 1589. In another room is an old
plaster-covered chimney-piece, concealing the arms of Middleton and
Tunstall. John Middleton, whose monument may be seen in Kirkby
Lonsdale church, married a daughter of Tunstall, of Thurland Castle.
A daughter of John Middleton, of Middleton Hall, in Lonsdale, married
a kinsman, John Middleton, of Stubham Park, who was the son of
Thomas Middleton, and grandson of Sir William Middleton, Kt., High
Sheriff of Co. York in 1527. This John Middleton purchased the
manor of Ilkley from Francis Mering, and he also bought Middleton
Moorhouses from the Claphams, of Beamsley. The eldest of his five
sons was William Middleton, who was twice married, lstly, to Mary
Eltofts, of Farnhill, and 2ndly, to Anne Townley, of Towneley. The
eldest son by his first wife was Sir Peter Middleton, who died in 1647.
He married Mary Ingleby, of Ripley Castle, who was interred in York
Cathedral in Feb., 1643. She was the daughter of David Ingleby,
second son of Sir William Ingleby, and by the marriage of this David
Ingleby with Anne, youngest daughter of Charles, Baron Neville, and
sixth Earl of Westmoreland, this connection of the Middletons may be
traced lineally backwards to the blood-royal of William L, the Conqueror.*
The old Hall must have been considered a wonderfully grand place
in its hey-day. But it was much battered and reduced during the
troublous strife of the Civil Wars, in which the Middletons, who were
loyal Catholics, were great sufferers ; and the large deer park, too, which
once surrounded the old house, was during the same stormy period made
a complete wreck. The main entrance is through a crumbling, spacious
archway, ten feet wide, and to judge from the thickness of the once
machicolated walls, with the remains of hinges upon them, it has been
closed with a ponderous doorway and protected with a portcullis. It
opens into what has at this day the appearance of a court-yard, but
which in reality was a covered way leading from the entrance gate to
the great hall. The latter is still a spacious apartment, entered by a
door-way on the right, where the walls are 6£ feet thick, and it had
formerly one of the customary old open fire-places, large enough, if the
need arose, to roast a whole ox or stag. There is a fine black oak-
panelled room (now used as a sitting-room) on the south side of the
great hall, which has an old Latin inscription cut into the oak above the
doorway. It reads, VENTVRVM EXHORESCO DIEM, meaning
/ dread the coming day, a rather superfluous remark, one would think, in
a house protected with walls seven feet thick ! Opposite the entrance to

* See Foster's Pedigrees of Yorkshire County Families.

447

the great hall is a low passage, having three deep arched doorways, which
formerly opened into the pantries. This passage led into the covered
apartment above alluded to, but which is now demolished. Over the
entrance is a stone inscribed I. M., 1647, doubtless indicating the time
when the hall was restored after Cromwell's destructive visit to the
neighbourhood. The house is at least a century older than this, for on
the south side are some trefoil -headed windows of the time of Henry VIII.,
with their original leaded panes still intact. There was a private chapel
attached to the building, but this long ago became ruinous.

Passing a cosy-looking inn, and the entrance lodge to the beautiful
mansion of Grimes Hill, which is now the manor-house of the parish of
Middleton, we arrive at Middleton Church. It is a neat, modern edifice,
which occupies the site of an older church taken down in 1813. It
contains nothing of particular interest. In the churchyard the most
noticeable object is the large railed off-tomb of the Moore family, of
Grimes Hill.

A little beyond, lies the picturesque Hawkin Hall, which is famous
as the birthplace of an eminent scholar, Dr. Christopher Bainbridge, of
the University of Cambridge, and tutor of one of England's noblest
writers, — the great poet Milton. Upon a tree-shaded knoll just above
the house, and near to the road, is one of the finest and most interesting
curiosities preserved in this part of England. It is a Eoman mile-stone,
which was dug up not far from its present position about fifty years ago.
We have already referred to the old military highway constructed by the
legions of Agricola, eighteen hundred years ago, between Overborough
and Appleby, and this is an undoubted relic of that remote and eventful
period. It is certainly a great curiosity, as very few such stones have
been preserved in this country. With the exception of that found in the
Artie beck at Caton, and inscribed in Latin, " three miles from camp,"
there is, we believe none other known in this part of England. Most of
these Roman mile-stones were broken up ages ago for the making and
repairing of roads. The present relic is in the form of a cylinder
5j feet high and 4 feet in circumference. It is of fine sandstone,
ornamented with a diamond pattern on the back, and on the front
incised, M P LIII, that is 58 Mille Passus, or Roman miles to Carlisle
(presumably.) Beneath the inscription was added the following by the
late Rev. Dr. Lingard : " Solo Erutum Restitut. Gul. Moore, a.d.
MDCCCXXXYI."

The scenery of the Lune is very beautiful all the way to Barbon.
This village is attractively situated under the Middleton, Barbon, and
Casterton Fells, which, in the late summer, present a delightful picture
of bright heather-bloom and dark, tumbled rock. The handsome and
lately-improved Manor House, now occupied by Sir U. Kay-Shuttleworth,

Bart., M.P., stands high up on Middleton Fell side, and is approached
by a splendid carriage-drive, winding up the face of the mountain.
The situation is as romantic as it is retired. Northwards, it looks up
the wild Barbon Beck glen leading to Dent, while on ail sides it is
enveloped in lonely heather-clad hills.

The manor of Barbon, or as it is called in Domesday, Berebrune
(Teut. here, a farm-dwelling, and brun, a spring) was purchased in the
early part of the reign of James I. by Judge Shuttleworth, and is still
the property of this family. In 1717 Richard Shuttleworth, Esq.,
transferred part of the messuage rights of the estate for a consideration
of £1717, and the tenements are now all freehold. The village wears a
look of general prosperity, while many of the houses are good and
modern, and are enclosed with pretty, well-kept gardens.

The origin of the church at Barbon is unknown, but the present
building dates from 1815. It is a small, plain structure, situated near
the railway station, and looks more like an old-fashioned school-room*
than a church of the Establishment. The double row of pews ascend
towards the west end, and are divided by a single aisle. On the walls
are a couple of neat monuments ; one in remembrance of Charles Francis
le Champion Holler, who was killed by a fall from his horse at
Charlottesville, Virginia, U.S., in Sept., 1888 ; and the other to an only
son of the late George Huck, of Beckfoot, who died, aged 14, in June,
1889. An old carved oak chair is kept in the church, which bears the
letters and date I M, 1662. The initials are doubtless those of John
Middleton, of the ancient local family of that name, previously mentioned.
The church, we understand, is shortly to be pulled down, and a larger
and handsomer structure erected on its site.

The tourist alighting at Barbon Station. 8| miles north of Ingleton,
may discover a grand, wild walk by the mountain road up Barkindale,
to Gawtbrop (6 miles), or Dent (7 miles). From Barbon station the
view all round is very attractive, and looking northwards, towards
Grayrigg on the Kendal and Sedbergh line, the round bossy head of
Whinfell Beacon stands out, when clear, 16 miles off, as the crow flies,
with conspicuous picturesqueness.

The road just mentioned, runs eastwards along the Barbon Beck
side, under the old park and Manor House, and then turns north,
about two miles up, below the Fell Farm, and alongside the lonely
Barkin Beck. A rather rough stream comes down from the High
Fell on the east, a short distance on this side of the Fell House, and a
road runs up its south side, a rather stiff pull of a mile to Bull Pot,
mentioned in a previous chapter, whence Easegill and the Witches 1
Caves can be got at by crossing the Fell a mile further to the east, and
nearer Ingleton.

449

By this route you follow the great line of dislocation, which is a
branch of the Pennine Fault, and is now generally spoken of as the Dent
Fault. It passes the west end of Garsdale and Dent in a south-westerly
direction, and then coinciding with the dale we are traversing, gradually
thins off below Gragarth and Leek Fell, where the Craven Fault, already
explained, springs into existence. The effect of this fault is to bring
up the Silurian strata of Middleton and Barkin Fells against the
carboniferous rocks of Casterton Fell and Gragarth. The fault runs
parallel with the road from a point (660 feet) where the latter crosses a
stream, a short mile north of Fell House, and in going up the dale the
tourist has on his left the upheaved Bannisdale slates of the Upper
Silurian group, and on his right, the carboniferous limestone, overlaid
by the Yoredale rocks. In Aigill Beck, the stream above alluded to,
which runs up to Bull Pot, and other of the water-courses on this side
of the dale, some peculiar effects of the fault may be observed.

This interesting road from Barbon ascends from 400 feet at the
station, to about 1050 feet close to Gawthrop, and in consequence the
tourist may prefer to save his energies by reserving this route for an
excursion from Dent, or the reverse way.

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Collier, Edward, 1, Heather Bank, Moss Lane East, Manchester.

Colling wood, W. G., Lane head, Coniston. Lanes.

Conder, Edward, Terry Bank, Kirkby Lonsdale.
*Cooke, Jas. S., J.P., F.U.A.S., Norcott, Liversedge (1).

Cordingley, John R., 10, Melbourne Place, Bradford.

Cornish, J. E., 16, St. Ann's Square, Manchester.

Coulthurst, J. W., Bowerley. Settle.

Cragg, Richard Balderston, Solicitor, Skipton.

Craven, Frederick, Lexden House, Manningham.

Craven, John Edwin, Mulcture Hall, near Todmorden.
*Craven, Lot, Rock Bank, Peel Park, Bradford.
'Craven Printing and Stationery Co., Limited, Settle (6)

Crofton, H. T., 36, Braze nose Street, Manchester.

Crone, Miss, Market Place, Settle.

Cross, Rev. A., M.A., Giggleswick School, Settle.

Crown, Thomas, Skelton, near Boroughbridge.

Cryer, B. G., 24, Grantham Road, Bradford.

Cudworth, William, Observer Office, Bradford. •

Cuttriss, S. W., 6, Fieldhead Terrace, ("amp Road, Leeds.

♦Devonshire, His Grace the Duke of, K.G., D.C.L., LL.D., Bolton Abbey,

Skipton.
•Dale, John & Co., Booksellers. Bradford («3 and 12).
•Danson, Rev. J. Myers, D.D., Ingleborough House, Aberdeen.

Darlington, Latimer, " Exchange.*' Bradford.

Davies, Rev. J. Llewelyn, The Vicarage, Kirkby Lonsdale.

Davis, Aid. Jas. W.. F.S.A., F.G.S., &c. Mayor of Halifax.
•Dawson, Harold, The Crescent, Lightcliffe.

Daw Hon, Percival Win., 101, Westbourne Avenue, Hull.

Dawson, R. F., 5, Noble Street, Great Horton Road, Bradford.

Dawson, Thomas, Duke Street. Settle.

Del lagan a, B. & Co., Limited, 10, Gay ton Roa 1, N.W. (per G. L. Morton, Director).

Denby, Dr. Walter, Horton Road, Bradford.
•Denison, S., M.T.M.E., Clarendon Road, Leeds.

Denny, Henry H., Wray House, Wray, near Lancaster.
♦Dewhurst, J. B., J, P., C.C., Aireville, Skipton (2).
"Dickons, J. Norton, 12, Oak Villas, Manningham.
♦Dixon, John William, Staincliffe, Shipley.

Dodgson, Miss, Long Preston.

454

•Drew, Daniel, Lowerhouse, Burnley.

Drinkwater, H., 9, Cheyne Gardens, London.

Dunlop, Dr., Marlborough Road, Bradford.
♦Dyson, George, Argyle Street, Marsden, near Huddersfield (1).

•Edgab, Jambs W., M.D., Settle.

Edmondson, T. W., B.A., 17, Holland Street, Cambridge.
•Edmondson & Co., Pioneer Printing Works, Skipton (3).

Elliott, F. W., 30, Hall Ings, Bradford (2)
•Embleton, Thoraas W., The Cedars, Methley, Leeds.

•Foster, Col., High Sheriff of Lancashire, Hornby Castle, Lancaster.

•Farrah, John, Low Harrogate.

*Farrer, James A., J.P.. Ingleborough, Lancaster (8).

*Fawcett, Mrs., Kirkmangate, Long Preston.

Fawcett, E., Lidget Green, Bradford.

Fawcett, John C, Green Field, Luddenden Foot.

Fawthrop, Joseph, 212, Bowling Old Lane, Bradford.

Fellowes, W. E., L R.C.P., S.E., L.F.P.S.G., L.S.A., 28, Ryan Street, Bradford.
•Fisher, Thomas, Cowling, Cross Hills, Eeighley.

Fletcher, Tom, Kirk Royd, Silsden.
•Flower, Ernest, Upper Phillimore Gardens, Kensington.

Foljambe, Cecil G. Savile, M.P., F.S.A., Cockglode, Ollertqn, Newark.

Foster, Miss, Duke Street, Settle.

Foster, John, Douk Ghyll, Horton-in-Ribblesdale (2).

Foster, Thomas, 12, Worthington Street, Werneth, Oldham.

Fox, Wm., 38, St. Andrew's Terrace, Bradford.
♦Frank, Frederick Bacon, Camp sail Hall, Doncaster.

Free Libraries, see " Libraries."

•Galloway, Frederick C, Castle View, Bowness-on-Windermere (1).

Garnett-Orme, Mrs., Ta?n House, near Skipton.

Garrs, Ernest, Gaythorne Road, West Bowling.

Gaskarth, Henry, 11, Sunbridge Road, Bradford.

Gaunt, Leonard, Hazel brae, Farsley, Leeds (2).

Gaunt, Reuben, jun., West View, Stanningley.
•Gerrard. John, H.M. Inspector of Mines, Worsley, Manchester.

Gibson, Edward P., Hawes, Yorkshire.

Glossop, Wm., Beckett's Bank Chambers, Bradford.

Gomersall, William, Otterburn-in-Craven.

Gough, Geo. S., The Brewery House, Stafford.

Graham, Christopher, Market Place, Settle.

Grahl, C. E., c/o Schunck & Co., Leeds.

Graves, Henry, Blenheim Road. Bradford.

Green, Bernard, Aireview Terrace, Crossbills.

Green, Edwin, Gargrave, via Leeds.

Greening, Charles, Albion Court, Kirkgate, Bradford.

Greenwood, Steven, Westgate, Burnley.

Greenwood, W. N., Greenwood Leghe, Ingle ton.

Grime, Mrs., 1, Ribble Terrace, Settle.

Grimshaw, David, 8, Elm Grove, Burley-in-Wharfedale.
•Guest, W. H., Arlington Place, 263. Oxford Road, Manchester (1).

Gunston, James, 9, North Parade, Bradford.

455

♦Hothfield, The Right Hon. Lord, Appleby Castle, Westmoreland.

Haigh, Joseph, 78, Park Wood Street, Keighley.
*Hainsworth, Lewis, 120, Bowling Old Lane, Bradford.

Haley, Chas. Hy., Providence Foundry, Stanningley.

Hall, Thomas, Draper, Long Preston.

* Hammond, E. W., Horton Hall, Bradford.
Hand by, W., Austwick, Lancaster.

* Han son, C. E., Ivy Road, Shipley.
Hanson, D., Thornleigh, Apperley, Leeds.
Hardaker, Aid. John, 3, Ashburnham Grove, Bradford.

Hardy, Chas. Frederic, South Road, Clapham Park, London, S.W.

Hargreaves, J. E., ex-Mayor of Kendal.

Harris, Henry, 13, North Dale Road, Frizinghall.
♦Harrison, William, Main Street, Kirkby Lonsdale (1).

Hart, H. G., M.A.. School House, Sedbergh.

Hartley, John T., 22, Nelson Square, Burnley.

Hartley, Wm., Leather Merchant, Heckmondwike.

Harvey, T. A., Market Place, Settle.
♦Hastings, Geoffrey, 15, Park Lane, Bradford.

Hawell, Rev. John, M.A., Ingleby-Greenhow Vicarage, Middlesbrough.

Hawksley, Dr., 76, Roe Lane, Southport.

Haworth, John P., High Street, Knaresborough.
♦Hayton, Win., Commercial Temperance Hotel, Settle.

Hay ward, Frank, 9, Wellesley Grove, Croydon.
•Head, John, M.InstC.E., F.G.S., 178, Clapham Park Road, S.W.
•Head, Casimir J., F.I.C., F.C.S., 178, Clapham Park Road, S.W.
♦Head, Archibald, 178, Clapham Park Road, S.W.

Hedley, B., B.A., Holly Bank, Giggleswick.

Henley, Rev. T. C, M.A., Kirkby Mai ham Vicarage.
*Hind, William Harley, Bradford.

Hirst, John, 70, Whetley Hill, Bradford.

Hobkirk, Chas. P., F.L.S., &c, The Bank, Dewsbury.

Holbeck, Rev. Jas. Louis, St. Margaret's Vicarage, Bentham.
•Holden, Isaac, M.P., Oakworth House, Keighley.

* Hoi lings, Robert, M.D., M.R.C.S. Eng., L.S.A. Lond., Grove House, Wakefield.
•Holroyd, Win. H., 81, Duke Street, St. James's, London (1).

Hopkinson, John, F.L.S., F.G.S., The Grange, St. Albans.

Home, William, F.G.S., Leyburn, Wensleydale.

Horner, A., Photographer, Settle.
•Horner, George, Bookseller, Settle-in-Craven (12).
•Howard, Dr., Altofts, Norman ton.

Howell, Mrs. A. P., 13, Golf Place, St. Andrews, N.B.
♦Howell, Edward. Church Street, Liverpool (1).

Howes, Rev. A. P., M.A., Bolton Abbey Rectory, Skipton.
•Howson, Mrs., Church Street, Settle (1).
♦Huggan, Thomas, Priest's House, Callaby, near Whittingham, Northumberland.

Hyde, C. F., Giggleswick School, Settle.

Ikgham, William, Settle.
Ingleby, Rev. A., B,A., The Rectory, Oban, N.B.
♦Ingledew, William Paley, 5, Oxford Terrace, Stockton-on-Tees.

456

Inman, Thos., Superintendent of Police, Settle.

Irvine, Mrs. J. Pearson. Cold Springs Hall, Buxton, Derbyshire.

Jackson, Richard, Main Street, Bentham, Lancaster.

James, Philip, Postmaster, Brough, Yorks.
* James, Wm., jun., Heaton Grove, Bradford.

Jones, Geo. Fowler, Quarry Bank, Mai ton.
•Joy, Rev. F. W., M.A.. F.S.A., F.R. Hist. S., Bentham Rectory, Lancaster (1).

•Kitson, Sir James, Bart., M.P., J.P., Gledhow Hall, Leeds.
*Kay, Jacob, 64, Bolton Road. Pendleton, Manchester.

Kearton, J. W., Indo-European Telegraph Co., 18, Old Broad Street, E.C.

Keighley, Alex., Flosh House, Keighley.

Kemp, Rev. Canon John, Birstall Vicarage, Leeds.

Killick, H. F., Bradford.

Kirk, Alfred S., Greenwood Lodge, Ingleton.

Kirk wood, Stephen, Stanningley, Leeds.

Knowles, C. H., Parliament Street, Harrogate.
*Knowles, John, Barrister-at-Law, Summerfield, Kirkby Lonsdale.

Knubley, Rev. E. P., M.A., Staveley Rectory, Leeds.

K.M.

♦Lorne, The Most Noble the Marquis of, K.T., LL.D., Kensington Palace,

London.
Lambert, Abraham, 7, York Terrace, Harrogate.
Lambert, J. W., Printer, Settle.
Lambert, W. H., Silsden, Keighley.
Lancaster, Seth, 48, Wakefield Road, Bradford.
Laycock, William, Sunny bank, Braithwaite, Keighley (4).
Lee, P. Fox, West Park Villa, Dewsbury.
Lees, Edward B., J. P., Thurland Castle, Kirkby Lonsdale.
Libraries :

Birkenhead Free Library (per Wm. May).

Blackburn Free Library (per R. Ashton).
* Bradford Free Library (per Butler Wood) (6).
•Bradford Historical and Antiq. Soc. (per J. A. Clapham).
•Bradford Library and Literary Soc. (per Miss Rhodes).

Bradford Mechanics* Institute (per J. Holbrey) (2).

Bradford Naturalists' and Micros. Soc. (per T. Wilkinson).

Bradford Scientific Association (per T. Pawson).

Cardiff Free Fibrary (per John Ballinger).

Clitheroe Free Library (per Jas. Robinson).

Derby Free Library (per W. Crowther)

Dewsbury Free Library (per W. H. Smith).

Giggieswick School (per Philip Bearcroft, M.A.).

Halifax Free Library (per J. Whiteley).

Keighley Mechanics' Institute (per A. L. Denby).

Leeds Free Library (per Jas. Yate*) (2).

Leeds Subscription Library (per F. A. Yates).

Liverpool Free Library (per P. Cowell).
♦Manchester Free Library (per Chas. W. Sutton).

Manchester, Owen'** College (per J. Taylor Kay).

457

Libraries, continued.

Middlesbrough Free Library (per Baker Hudson) (2).
Neweastle-on-Tyne Free Library (per W. J. Haggerston).
Oldham Free Library (per Thos. W. Hand).
Rochdale Free Library (per Geo. Hanson).
•Salford Royal Museum and Library (per Ben H. Mullen, M.A.).
Saltaire Institute (per Wm. Fry).

Scarborough Philosophical Soc. (per. John H. Phillips).
Sheffield Free Library (per Thos. Hurst).
Southport, Atkinson Free Library (per T. Newman).
South Shields Free Library (per Thos. Pyke).
♦Wakefield Book Society (per Henry Benington).
Wakefield Mechanics 1 Institute (per Henry Benington).
Warrington, The Museum (per Chas. Madeley).
•Wigan Free Library (per Hy. Tennyson Folkard).
Wilsden Mechanics' Institute (per Albert Bartle).

Yorkshire Archaeological and Topographical Assoc, (per G. W. Tomlineon,
F.S.A., Huddersfield).
♦Lister, John, Duke Street, Settle.
Lord, John, Greenhead, Settle.
Lovegrove, E. W.. B.A., Giggleswick School, Settle.
*Lund, Charles, Hollybrook, Ilkley (1).
Lupton, Albert, Holme View, Burnley.
Lupton, Arthur, Holly Mount. Burnley.
♦Lupton, Benjamin. Cumberland Place, Burnley.
Lupton, J. T., Carlton Road, Burnley.
Lupton, William C, 9, Cheapside, Bradford.

•Masham, the Right Hon. Lord, Swinton Park, Masham.

♦Marsham, the Hon. Robert, M.A., F.S.A., o, Chesterfield Street, Mayfair, W.

M'Cormick, Rev. Frederic, F.S.A. Scot., &c, Whitehaven, Cumberland.
•McGowen, Wm. Thomas, Town Clerk, Bradford.

McLandsborough, John, F.R. Met. S., F.G.S., &c, Lindum Terrace, Manningham.

McLaren, J. M., 21, Canal Road, Bradford.
♦Mucmillan, Robert, 27, Mannville Terrace, Bradford.
*Mannock, G. B. Bank well, Settle.

Margerison, Samuel, Calverley, Leeds.

Marriner, A. H.. Broom House, Keighley.

Marsden, Rev. C. J., M.A., The Vicarage, Gargrave.

Marshall, J:is. Whaley, Solicitor, Cannon Hill, Lancaster.

Mason, Philip B., J.P.. F.L.S., F.E.S., &c, Burton-on-Trent.

Mason. Richard, 116, Queen's Road, Liverpool.
•Matthews k, Brooke, Booksellers, Bradford (*6 and 30).
♦Maw, William, Woodlands, Rawdon, Leeds.

Mechanics' Institutes, see Libraries.

Milne-Redhead, G. B., M.A.. 3, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, B.C.

Milner, F. A., Guardian Office, Lancaster.

Milnes, Eli, F.S.I. , Rents Bank House, Grange-over-Sands.
♦Mitchell, Wm., 3, Fairfield Road, Bradford.

Moir, Alexander, 29, Woodview Terrace, Manningham.

Moran, P. 0. K., National Liberal Club, London, S.W. (2).
•Morrison, Walter, J.P., Malham Tarn, Bell Busk, Leeds (3).

458

Mortimer, Chas . 791, Franklin Street, Milwaukee, Wisconsin, U.S.A.
Mortimer, Edward, Silver Street, Halifax (3).
Muff, Frederic Broadbent, Riverslea, llkley.
Muff, Henry, Aston Mount, Heaton.

♦Norfolk, His Grace the Dukk of, Earl Marshal, Norfolk House, London,

S VV.
•Naylor, E., Girlington, Bradford (1).

Nelson, Joseph, National Liberal Club, London, S.W.

Newboult, Alfred, 175, Hollings Mount, Manningham,

Newton, William, 78, Broomtield Terrace, Bradford.

Nichols, A. E., A.M.lnst.C.E., Reginald Terrace, Leeds.

Nicholls, Richard B., Consulate of the United States. Bradford.

Nicholson, Chas , L.R.C.P.. Lond., M.R.C.S., Eng., 40, Horton Lane, Bradford.
•Nicholson, John S., 116, Queen's Uoad, Liverpool.

Oddy, B. H., 37, St. Mary's Road, Bradford.
Oddy, John Chas.. 27, Blenheim Road, Bradford.
Oddy, John G.. J. P., Hallcroft Hall, Addingham.
Oldfield, George, 6, Lansdowne Place, Bradford.
Oldfield, Geo. Wm., M.A., 21, Longridge Road, Earl's Court, S.W.
*Ormerod, Hanson, Boothroyd, Brighouse.
Ormerod, Thomas, 30, Norrey Road, Putney.

•Powell, Sir Fhancis S., Babt., M.A., M P , Horton Old Hall, Bradford.

Paley, William, M.D., M.R.C.P., Yore Bank. Ripon.
♦Parke, Geo. H., F.L.S., F.G.S., &c., St. John's, Wakefield.

Parker, Councillor Jamen, Great Horton, Bradford.

Parkinson, Geo. S., 2, Lansdowne Place, Bradford.

Parkinson, Rev. Thos., North Otterington Vicarage, Northallerton.

Patchett, John, Mildred House, Undercliffe Lane, Bradford.
•Pattison, Frank W., 7. Burwood Place, London, W. (1).

Pawson, A. H., Farnley, Leeds.

Pawson, Thos., 90, Sydenham Place. Bradford.

Peacock, Frederick G., Solicitor, Orosshi Is, Keighley.

Peake, Edward, M.A., Giggleswick School, Settle.

Pearson, A. G. B., Solicitor, Lune Cottage, Kirkby Lonsdale.

Pearson, George, Park field Road, Bradford (2).
I Peck, H. W., Yorkshire Bank, Hunslet, Leeds.

Pickard, Alfred. 5, Albion Street, Wakefield.

Pickering, Rev. Robt., M.A., Cowgill Vicarage, Sedbergh.

Piatt, W. H., Moorhead Villas, Shipley.

Pocklington. Henry, F.R.M.S., 41, Virginia Road, Leeds.

Preston, Miss, Undercliffe, Settle.
•Priestley, W. B., Bradford.

Prie8tman, Alfred, Manningham Lodge, Bradford.
•Pritt, T. E., Lyntonville, Headingley.
•Procter, Miss, Cromwell House, Long Preston.

Procter. Miss, The Green, Settle.

Procter, Richard, Solicitor, Oak Mount, Burnley.
•Proctor, George, Bank House, near Barnoldswick.

459

♦Ribblesdale, the Right Hon. Lord, Gisburne Park, Yorkshire.

♦Rabagliati, A., M.D.. Bradford.

♦Randall, Joseph, Bank Chambers, George Street, Sheffield.

Raven, Rev. T. Milville, M.A., F.R.S.E., Crakehall Vicarage, Bedale.

Read, Alfred, Solicitor, 4, Hazel Bank, Blackburn.
♦Reed, H. Byron, 4, Collingham Place, South Kensington, S,W.

Reith, A. W., M.A., Heath Grammar School, Halifax.

Renton, John, Dashwood House, London.

Richardson, Hugh, Sedbergh, Yorkshire.

Roberts, George, Lofthouse. Wakefield.
♦Roberts, John, Paper Mill, Settle.
♦Robinson, Arthur J., Clitheroe Castle, Clitheroe.

Robinson, J. R, County Alderman, Marsden, near Huddersfield.
♦Robinson, John G. t Cragdale, Settle.

Robinson, Mrs. Wm., Greenbank, Sedbergh.

Roebuck, W. D., Sunny Bank, Leeds.

Rotheray, Lister, 48, Otley Street, Skipton.

Rowntree, William, J.P., Westwood, Scarborough.

Sagar, Joseph, Parish Clerk and Custodian of Registers, Halifax.
♦Scott. John, jun., Skipton-in-Craven.

Scott, Joseph, Solicitor, 98, Albion Street, Leeds.

Scruton, William, West Bowling, Bradford.

Sewell, A. B., Parish Clerk and Custodian of Registers,* Bradford.
♦Sewell, G. F., 30, Giandage Terrace, Bradford.
♦Sewell, Percy R., Lynd hurst, Liversedge.

Shaw, Giles, F.R. Hist. S., 72, Manchester Street, Oldham.

Shepherd, Miss, The Terrace, Settle.
♦Shillito, John, 17, Cavendish Terrace, Halifax.

Shuffrey, Rev. W. A., M.A., Arncliffe, via Skipton-in-Craven.

Silcock, J. R., 52, Peel Square, Bradford.

Sim, David A., 10, Whingate Terrace, Upper Armley, Leeds.

Simpson, Mrs., Golden Lion Hotel, Settle.
♦Simpson, R. L., Photographer, Ivy Cottage, Kirkby Lonsdale.

Singleton, James, 48, Deiph Mount, Hyde Park, Leeds.
♦Skidmore, Charles, Stipendiary Magistrate, Bradford.
♦Slinger, Jonathan, Three Elms, Lancaster.

Smith, D. R., M.A., Giggleswick School, Settle.
'Smith, Joshua, Eccles, near Manchester.
♦Smith, Samson, New Cross Street, West Bowling, Bradford.
♦Smith, Tom C, F.R. Hist. S., Green Nook, Longridge. near Preston (1).

Smith, T. P., Giggleswick School, Settle.

Sowden, W. M., 62, St. Mary's Road, Bradford.

Speight, Mrs. S., 19, Burlington Terrace, Manningham.
♦Speight, Edwin, Ardyngnook, Baildon.

Speight, George, Belmont, Park View Road, Manningham.

Stack ho use, Mrs. Mary, Taitlands, Settle.

Stack house, Rev. John, The Hoi He*, Stainforth, Settle.

Stackhouse, W. A., Stackhouse, Settle.

Stamford, Arthur H., Hall Bank, Bingley.

Stead, John James, Albert Cottage, Heckmondwike.

Stead, Joseph, ABhfield Villa, Heckmondwike.

460

Steel, Robert Elliot, M.A., Hawthorn House, Baildon.
♦Stephenson, Alfred, Devonshire Terrace, Manningham.

Strange, Alfred, Greenfield House, Burnley.

Stuart, J. A. Erskine, F.S.A. Scot., Heckmondwike.
•Sutcliffe, Frederick J. R., Low Moor, Bradford.

Swift, George, B.A., Grammar School, Dent.

Sykes, Arthur Firth, 14, Neal Street, Horton Lane, Bradford.

Sykes, Rev. J. P., Rath m ell, Settle.

Sykes, Rev. W. Slater. Curate of S. Matthias, Sheffield.

♦Tempest, Sir Robert Tempest, Babt., Tong Hall, Drighlington.
Tacey, William G., L.R.C.P., &c, 6, Manningham Lane, Bradford.
Tate, Thomas, F.G.S., Eldon Mount, Leeds.
Tatham, Leonard, Carill Drive, Fallowfield, Manchester.
Taylor, John W., F.L.S., Outwood Villa, Horsforth.
Taylor, Robert, Refreshment Rooms, Antique Folly, Settle.
Taylor, Rev. R. V., B.A., Melbeck's Vicarage, near Richmond, Yorks.
Teal, J., 7, Crossley Street, Halifax.

Terry. F. C. Birkbeck, M.A., The Paddocks, Palgrave, Diss, Norfolk.
Terry, Percival, M.A. (Oxon), Solicitor, Bradford.
Tetley, Samuel, 23, Parsonage Road, West Bowling.
Thackeray. Chas. W., 4, Easby Mount, Bradford.
*Thackray, Wm, 12, Hall Ings, Bradford.
Thistlethwaite, M., 1, Penyghent View, Settle.
Thompson, Rev. W., M.A., J. P., Guldrey Lodge, Sedbergh.
Thrippleton, John, Burley View, Leeds.
Tinkler, Rev. John, M.A., Caunton Vicarage, Newark, Notts.
Todd, J., Dist. Supt. Prudential Assurance Co., Craven Terrace, Settle.
•Toothill, James Arnold, 21, York Terrace, Akroydon, Halifax.
Tower, Bernard H., Sedbergh R.S.O.
Tristram, Miss, Undercliffe, Settle.
Turner, Rev. J., Ingleton Vicarage, Kirkby Lonsdale.
Turn-.r, J. Horsfall, ldel, Bradford.

♦Varley, John, C.E., Skipton.

•Wharncliffe, the Right Hon. the Earl of, Wortley Hall, Sheffield.
♦Walsinghain, the Right Hon. Lord, M.A., F.R.S., F.L.S.. Merton Hall, Thetford,

Norfolk.
♦Wilson, Sir Mathew W., Bart., Eshton Hall, Gargrave.

Waddington, William, 86, Rectory Road, Burnley.

Wainwright, Tom, 41, Holker Street, Keighley.

Walker, H. V., Three Nooks, Settle.

Walker & Laycock, Booksellers, 37, Briggate, Leeds (12).
♦Walker, N. D., Steeton, near Keighley.
♦Waller, Bryan Charles, Mason gill House, Cowan Bridge, Kirkby Lonsdale (1).

Walton, F. F., F.G.S., L.R.C.P., 10, Charlotte Street, Hull.

Walton, Robert, Rectory Road, Burnley.

Warburton, John, Kilmore, 32, Oak Road, Withington, near Manchester.
*Waterhou*e, David, Hillside House, Coleridge Place, Bradford (1).

Watson, Robert, Palace House, Burnley.

Watson. Thomas, 1, Commercial Street, Leeds (2).

nmn

461

•Webster, John, C.E., 32, Drewton Street, Bradford.

Wharton, Hiram, Field House, Liversedge.

Whitaker, Arthur Bane, Gas Works, Halifax.

Wildman. R. T„ Registrar of Births and Deaths, Long Preston.

Wilkinson, John H., F.R.G.S., Newlay Grove, Horsforth. Leeds.

Wilkinson, Thos., 54, Carlisle Road, Manninghatn.
•Wilson, Bernard, B.A., Sedbergh School, Yorkshire.

Wilson, Chas. Macro, Waldershaigh, Bolsterstone, Sheffield.

Wilson, Chas. S., Wymondham, near Oldham.

Wilson, Robert, 44, Ashley Street, Manchester Road, Bradford.

Wood, Butler, 9, St. Augustine's Terrace, Bradford.

Woodd, Chas. H. Lardner, J.P., F.G.S., Oughtershaw Hall, Langstrothdale Chase,
via Skipton (2).

Woodhead, T. W., Birkby, Huddersfield.

Wooff, Thomas, Penyghent View, Settle.

Wright, Miss, Ling Bob, Wilsden, Bradford.
•Wright, N. W., Blake Hill House, Eccleshill, Bradford (I).

•Yorke, Thomas Edwakd, Bewerley Hall, Pateley Bridge.
Young, James, Ivy Bank, Daisy Hill, Bradford.

•Zimmerman^, C, 31, Crutched Friars, London, E.C.

462

INDEX OF SURNAMES.

Exclusive of the Poll Tax and Flodden Field lists, pp. 29—66.

Aleman, 316, 384, 402.
Altham, 323.
Aniundeville, 366, 372.
Anderton. 354.
Apsley, 427.
Armistead, 26, 79, 91, 133.

199, 389.
Arton, 354.
Asteley, 134.
Atkinson, 354.
Ayrey, 445.

Babthkoppe, 427.
Bainbridge, 447.
Baines, 94, 195, 289.
Baird, 368.
Baker, 20, 166, 236, 395.

396. 408.
Balderston, 150, 213, 219.
Bamlett, 20.
Barwick, 442.
Bateson, 195, 388.
Bathe, 212.
Batty, 430.
Beasley, 213. 230.
Bective, 289, 290, 428.
Beetham. 429.
Bell, 268.
Benson, 353, 356.
Bentham, 388, 397.
Berry, 386.
Binns, 26.
Birkbeck, 93, 125, 159,382,

403, 404.
Birtwhistle, 26.
Blades, 429.
Booth, 89.
Bosville, 385, 386.
Bouch, 189,211,243.
Bouskill, 213.
Bower, 427.
Bowes, 205.
Boyd, 25, 254, 337.
Bovle, 84.
Bovnton, 210.
Bradley, 377.
Bravshaw, 77. 87, 90, 98,

132, 354, 382.
Bright, 362.
Bronte, 271,281,291.
Brown, 80, 163, 214, 357,

380.

Browning, 268.
Brownrigg, 429.
Buhner, 211.
Burlend, 371.
Burrow, 191.
Burton, 368, 385, 427.
Busk 122.

Butterfield, 213, 237.
Byles, 105.

Calvebley, 200.

Calvert, 212.

Carlass, 26.

Carr, 26, 75, 77, 78, 98, 99,

189, 213, 261.
Carter, 237, 315.
Catterall, 380,381.
Chamberlaine, 26.
Chapman, 353.
Charnley, 213.
Chaucer, 343.
Chew, 163.
Chippendale, 28.
Cholmley, 187,205,210.
Chorlton, 382.
Christie, 94, 99.
Clapham, 75. 80, 106, 140.

147, 148, 150, 163, 440J

446.
Clark. 25, 86, 376, 428, 430.
Clavton, 26, 94.
Clifford, 352, 353, 372.
Clough, 385.
Cnates, 146. 226.
Cockayne, 72.
Coekett, 134.
Coleridge, 443.
Collingwood, 197.
Coraling, 213.
Conder, 430.
Cooper, 26, 315.
Corbridge, 367
" Cornwall, Barry," 223,

267.
Coulson, 368, 370.
Coulthard, 25.
Coulthurst, 74, 302, 304.
Court. 283.
Cowgill, 197.
Cragg, 213.
Craven, 113, 212,213.
Croft, 442.

Cromwell, 88, 264, 266,

314,353,369,381.
Cross, 379.
Cudworth, 76.
Cunliffe, 26.
Cunningham, 382.
Currer, 212.

Dacre, 427, 440.

Dakyns, 234.

Dalby, 441.

Danson, 214.

Darcv, 114, 133, 134, 162,

362, 366.
Dawkins, 122, 123, 1 73, 403.
Dawson, 26, 91, 113, 114,

418.
Dean, 151, 354, 355, 356.
Denny, 326.
Dernbrook, 357.
Dent, 132.
Dickens, 268, 302.
Dickson, 373.
Diconson, 323, 377, 432.
Dixon, 374, 385.
Dowbiggin, 388.
Downham, 195, 213.
Doyle, 268.

Elam, 422
Ellershaw, 193.
Elison, 347.
Ellis, .26, 28.
El tofts, 446.
Evans, 309, 310, 443.

Faldrath, 213.
Faldshawe, 134.
Faraday, 151, 183.
Farrer, 142, 146, 147, 148,

150, 151, 154. 157, 162,

178,184,189,238,326,327
Fawcett, 347, 348, 429, 442.
Fell, 322.

Fenwick, 280, 281. 285.
Fetherstone, 191, 192. 202.
Fisher, 354.

Fitz Hugh, 209, 427, 446.
Forest, 385.
Foster, 25, 191, 200, 203,

204, 212, 304, 341, 362,

386. 398.

463

Fothergill, 343, 442.
Fowler, 237.

Fox, 93. 198. 421, 432, 442.
Foxcroft, 213, 278.
Frankland, 75, 134, 881.

Gabnett, 191.
Geldard, 377, 880.
Gerard, 203.
Gibson, 187, 188,213.
Gladstone. 152.
Goldsmith, 98, 224.
Gomersall. 25. 301, 305,

306. 809. 310, 311, 314,

315, 321, 898.
Gosling, 84.
Graham, 212.
Gray, 84, 160,212.
Greathead. 431.
Green, 25, 102, 388.
Greenbank, 212.
Gresham, 323, 328, 398,
Griffey?, 213.
Guildford, 210.
Guy, 148.

Hailstone, 397.
Halt, 25, 368, 370, 380.
Hamerton. 105, 361, 862,

368. 375.
Handby, 86. 162. 167.
Hand ley. 435, 445.
Hapton, 354.
Hardacre. 368.
Harg reaves, 102, 310.
Harrington, 134.
Harris, 286.
Harrison. 25, 426, 442.
Hartley, 74, 100. 143,358.
Havgarth. 418, 428.
Healev, 367, 385.
Heard, 212.
Hebden. 320.
Heber, 26. 212, 313, 339.
Helston. 26.
Hey, 238.

Hodgson, 203, 354, 429.
Holcroft, 376.
Holden. 191,387.
Hole, 196
Holgate. 365.
Holmes, 442.
Holrcvd, 374.
Horner, 390, 408.
Horsfall, 134.
Howitt, 422, 423.
Howson, 26. 79, 241, 385,

388.
Huck, 448.

Hughes, 220, 428. 430.
Hunter, 429.
Husband, 134, 187, 188, 189.

Ingleby, 20. 140, 148, 154,

163, 164. 189,354,446.
Ingram, 75, 380.
Inman, 832, 418,442.

Jackson 119, 120, 326.
Jaques, 341.
Jobson. 396.
Johnson, 26.
Joy. 190, 192, 196.

Kempson, 368.

Kidd, 90, 213, 258.

Kilburn, 406.

King, 429. 442.

Kingslev. 242.

Kirk, 213, 214.

Knipe, 75

Knoll. 354, 356, 361, 368,

375
Knowles, 198,353,368,369,

370
Koon, 213
Kubbage, 213

Laikland. 134.
Lambert, 75, 88, 89, 134,

813,323, 372,382
Lancaster, 26
Lawson, 75, 213, 354.
Leech, 26.
Lees, 280.

Leland, 339, 412. 416.
Lennard, 385, 386.
Levland, 334, 342.
Lister, 75, 316, 317. 397.
Loge, 347.
Longley, 802.
Lowther, 211, 446.
Lucas, 37S 394.
Lupton. 192, 196, 442.
Lynley, 381.

Male, 380.

Malham, 133, 317, 328.

Mansergh, 381.

Marr. 166

Marsden. 301, 302.

Martin, 72.

Marton, 270.

Mason, 25, 86. 427, 432, 442.

Melton, 441.

Mering, 446.

Metcalfe, 247, 339, 340, 403,

427.
Metham, 187.
Middleton, 362, 439, 445.
Milnes, 25.
Milton, 91, 447.
Moller, 448.
Moore, 147, 226, 234, 246,

259, 268, 350

Moorhoii8e. 26.
Morley, 148,368,401.
Morrison. 80, 92, 242. 313,

852, 858.
Mowbray, 147, 153, 209,

265, 384, 407, 412, 417.

440, 441.
Musgrave, 416.

Neville, 204. 205, 385,t446
Newby, 212.
Newton, 114, 372.
Nicholson, 79, 143.
Nightingale, 26, 307.
Norfolk. 876.
North, 280.
Nowell. 78, 289.
Ny lander, 320

Osbobne, 134.
Otway, 441. 445.
Overend, 198.
Owen, 354.
Owthwat, 427.

Page, 210

Paley, 75. 91,96, 115, 133.

Palmer, 442.

Palmes, 380.

Parker, 88, 189,212.

Parr. 203, 204.

Peel, 26, 302.

Pembroke, 339, 416. 440.

Pennant, 84, 298.

Percy, 73, 318, 352, 359,

367.
Perfect, 113.
Pevcock, 356.
Pickering, 210. 211.
Pickhaver, 163.
Pinck. 25.

Plumpton, 361 368.
Porritt. 368.
Poulton, 326.
Powell, 191,442.
Preston, 90, 98. 304, 318,

323, 354.
Priestlev, 107.
Pritt, 398.
Proctor, 90, 172, 19.", 199,

213, 223, 252, 267. 280,

321, 322, 355. 365, 388.
Pudsay, 73, 114. 315,347.

Queen 440.

Radcliff. 868.
Kamsden, 341.
Kauthmel, 239, 282.
Ray, 236.

Redman, 154, 213, 264, 347,
362, 427.

464

Ribblesdale, 26, 317, 358. Suinner, 418. Warden, 429.

Richardson. 320. Swain son, 115, 191. Warner, 86

Roberts, 377. Swift, 430. 432. Warwick. 357.

Robinson, 26, 187, 368, 427. Sykes, 361. 378, 381. Waterhouse, 286.

431. 442. Symons, 25. Watkins, 140.

Rotheray, 408, 409. Watson, 25, 163, 362.

Roughsedge. 197. Talbot. 163, Watts, 102.

Ruskin, 128, 287. Tatham. 134, 187, 195, 213, Wavlock, 318.

270, 278. Weatherhead,212.388,410.

SALVEX, 187. Taylor, 88, 426. Welburv, 211.

Scott, 137, 268. Teale, 191, 1 94. Welch, 270.

Scriven, 441. Tempest. 77, 354, 361, 368. West. 90.

Scrope, 385, 440, 441. Tench. 84. Westali, 249.

Sedgwick, 25. 218, 220, 356, Tennant, 322, 332, 341 , 347, Westennan, 26

387, 418, 421, 425. 427, 364. Westlake. 386.

428, 430, 431. 442. Tennyson. 268. Wetherall, 388.

Serjeantson, 315, 354. Thackeray. 268. Whalley, 413.

Shackleton, 320. Theakston, 441. Wharf, 356.

Sharland, 404. Thistlethwaite, 427. Whitaker, 70. 90, 187, 197,

Shepherd, 25. Thompson, 196, 213, 214, 213, 284, 328, 330, 348,

Sherborne, 212, 300, 361, 354. 355, 365, 392, 409, 860,383,414,438.

376. 427. Whitehead, 442.

Shuffrev, 347. Thoresby, 426. Whitfield, 431.

Shuttleworth, 162, 196, 447, Thornton, 279, 347. Wiggen, 353.

448. Tiddeman. 125, 173, 217, Wiglesworth, 385.

Sill. 429. 250, 309. ' Wildman, 79, 187.

Simpson, 26, 275. Tindal, 26. Wilkinson, 26.

Slater, 354. Toller, 355, 356. Wilkokson, 318.

Smarte, 439. Townley, 446. Willis, 26.

Smith, 196, 245. 268, 854. TriBtram. 26. Wilson, 148, 197, 291, 301,
Soppitt. 237. Trotter, 314, 427. 804. 815, 318,388,397,

Southev, 223, 246, 268. Tunstall, 271, 280. 440, 446. 401, 443.

Speight, 343, 442. Turner, 106, 223, 249. 362. Windsor, 354.

Speke, 268. Twistleton, 92, 95, 1 16. 388. Wittam, 26.

Spenser, 26. Woodd, 25, 341.

Stackhouse. 79, 150. Ulp, 366. Wortley, 302.

Stansfield, 388, 339. Upton, 444, 445. W r ray, 25.

Stanley, 279, 440. Urban, 78. Wvlian, 427.

Staveley, 407, 4 1 7, 440. Wy tham, 328.
Stockdale, 427. Waddington, 89, 429.

Story, 93. 156, 249, 301. Wade. 328, 340. • Ye at es, 187.

Stow, 25. Wakefield, 442. Yonge, 354, 855.

Stuart, 195. Walbran. 354. Yorke, W6, 140, 162, 168,

Suffolk, 329. Waller. 266, 267, 268. 828, 329, 368.

465

GENERAL INDEX.

The figures in heavy type denote the page where the place is specially described.

Aberdeen, 214.
Aberystwith, 224.
Achill Island, 331.
Addleborough, 24 1.
Airton, 312, 313, 318, 372.
AmbleBide, 25.
Ainerdale, 337.
Amersham, 266.
Anglo-Saxon occupation,

70, 147, 207, 208, 279,

439.
Animals, wild, 80, 122, 327,

335, 416.
An'ey, 73, 382.
Appleby, 291, 416, 489.
Applegarth, 25, 343, 414.
Appletreewick, 113.
Arkholme, 208.
Arncliffe, 23, 25, 30, 822,

325, 328, 337, 347, 355,

356, 372.
Arncliffe Clowder, 325.
Arnford, 337, 367, 871. 372.
Ashton-under-Lyne, 361.
Askrigg, 195, 276, 426, 440.
Attermire, 125, 398.
Austwick, 106, 142, 148,

150, 162, 189, 317, 402.
Aysgarth, 25, 843, 414.

Backstone Gill, 232.
Bainbridge, 111, 336, 343,

416.
Banbury, 147.
Bank Newton, 363.
Barbon, 28, 208, 429, 447,

448.
Barbon Fell, 273, 290.
Barden, 25, 297.
Bamoldswick. 208.
Harms, 23, 24, 129.
Beamsley, 148, 446.
Beasley Falls, 226, 230.
Beckermonds, 23, 344.
Bee Croft Hall, 136. 388,

401.
Bell Busk, 309, 318.
Ben Nevis, 23, 25, 234.
Bentham, 111, 183, 185,

205, 209, 291, 385, 387.

406, 427.

Birds, wild, 260, 320, 337,

433.
Birkwith, 384, 399, 400.
Bishopsdale, 339.
Black Combe, 240, 241, 398
Black Shiver Edge, 250.
Blake Gill, 421.
Blea Moor, 137, 169, 241,

345, 398, 405, 436.
Bolland. 184, 189,299.
Bolton Abbey, 30, 148, 314,

328,332 367,371.
Bolton Hall, 25, 362.
Bombay, 448.
Bonber, 311.
Bordley, 252, 821, 322, 325,

372.
Borrowdale, 25, 222.
Boss Moor, 321.
Botany, see Plants.
Bouch Dale, 243.
Bow Fell, 417, 418.
Bradford, 25, 132,367,409,
Braida Garth. 259, 261.
Brimham, 353.
Brough, 218.
Brow Gill, 409,
Browsholme, 88, 189, 196,

211.
Buckden, 23, 388, 343.
Buckden Pike, 342, 344.
Buck Beck, 259.
Burnsall, 113, 116, 295,

372, 385.
Burrow, 281.
Burton, 162. 187, 208, 209,

217, 270, 279, 440.
Buxton, 24.

Cairns and Barrows, 108,

177, 256, 263, 309, 379.
Calf Fell, 23,398, 427.
Calton,313. 314, 323, 372,

382, 384.'
Cam Fell, 398, 407.
Cam House, 178.
Camps, prehistoric, 83, 110,

127, 182, 312, 336.
Canterbury, 195, 386.
Cantsfield, 203, 208, 280,

285, 368.

Capelside. 377, 381.

Capernwray, 270.

Capon Hall, 352, 353, 356,

372.
Cartmel, 246.
Casterton. 25, 208, 274, 283,

290 291.
Casterton Fell, 272, 449.
Catleap Fall, 180.
Caton, 162,217,447.
Cat Stones, 184.
Catterick Force, 113.
Cautley Spout, 438.
Caves and Pot-holes.

Alumn Pot, 176, 400, 402

Atkinson's Cave, 176.

Attermire Cave, 126.

Barefoot Wi ves Hole, 250

Batty Wife Hole, 265,
410.

Birkwith Cave, 400.

Blackside Cave, 176.

Boggart Holes, 254.

Boggart's Roaring Hole,
180.

Bread Pot, 262.

Brow Gill Cave, 409.

Browside Cave, 255.

Bruntscar Cave, 252.

Buckhaw Brow Cave,
141.

Bull Pot, 261, 273, 448.

Buttertubs. swallow-
holes, 415.

Calf Hole, 410.

Calton Moor Cave, 319.

Cave Ha", 142.

Cave Pot, 179.

Cellar Hole, 263.

Clapham Cave, 146, 249.

Cleaver Hole, 272.

Cotterdale House Cave,
414.

Cow Pot, 278.

Crina Bottom pot-hole,
180.

Dangerous Cave, 102.

Dead Man's Cave, 109.

Diccan Pot, 403.

Douk Cave, 249, 336, 892 -

Dove Cave, 336.

466

Caves and Pot-holes, cont.
Dove Cote, 483.
Dow Gill Cave. 392.
Dowkabottom Cave, 325,

331.
Dry Gill Cave, 824.
Dungeon Hole, 263.
Ease Gill Kirk, 272.
Elbolton Cave, 294.
Eye Holes, 272.
Far Douk Cave, 250.
Fern Pot, 179.
Fluted Hole, 179.
Gaping Gill, 153, 155,

158, 176.
Gavel Pot, 273.
Gatekirk Cave, 251.
Gingle Pot, 247, 261.
Goyden Pot, 836.
Great Douk Cave, 249.
Hackergill Cave, 424.
Hardraw Scar Cave, 414.
Hell Hole, 273.
HellnPot,176,400,402.
Hell's Cauldron, 424.
High Gill Cave, 433.
Homeshaw Caves, 254.
Horton Tarn Pot, 400.
Hull Pot, 392.
Hunt Pot, 890, 393.
Hurtle Pot, 246.
Ingleborough Cave, 146,

153, 174.
Ivescar House Cave, 254.
Jackdaw Hole. 144, 399.
Janet's Cave. 318.
Jingling Hole, 352.
Johnson's Jacket Hole,

176.
Jumble Hole, 272.
Juniper Gulf, 175.
Kale Pot. 260.
Katnot Cave, 406.
Kelcowe Scar Cave, 141.
Ring's Scar Cave, 125.
Knave Knoll Hole, 295.
L. Hole, 179.
Little Douk Cave, 249.
Little Pot, 258.
Long Churn, 403.
Long Close Cave, 319.
Long Kin Cave, 175.
Long Kin Holes, 174.
Long Kin West, 179.
Lord's Top Hole, 263.
Lost Johns' Cave, 273.
Malhaui Cove, 319.
Mai ham Tarn Caves, 319
Marble Pot, 175.
Marble Steps Pot, 258.
Mere Gill, 250.
Moss Hole, 179.

Caves and Pot-holes, cont.

Moughton Fell Cave, 402

Mud-foot Hole, 179.

Nanny Carr Hole, 400.

Needle Hole, 262.

Phial Hole, 272.

Pillar Hole, 179.

Pin Hole, 262.

Ranscar Caves, 411.

Rantry Hole, 180.

Raspberry Pot, 179.

Rosebay Pot, 179.

Rowten Cave, 260.

Rowten Hole, 260.

Rumbling Hole, 272.

Scales Moor Pot-holes,
263.

Simon Fell Caves, 175.

Sir William's Cove, 176.

Skirethorns Cave, 319,
323.

Sleets Cave, 328.

Staircase Cave, 102, 106.

Storrs Hall Caves, 244.

Stump Cross Caverns,324

S win to Hole, 260.

Tatham Wife Hole, 251.

Thirl Pot, 392.

Thorney Pot, 260.

Thorns Gill Pot, 406.

Thund Pot, 390. 393.

Turn Dub, 400.

Victoria Cave, 79, 118,
154.

Waterscale Cave, 183,
204.

Witches' Caves, 272, 448.

Weathercote Cave, 247,
251.

Yordas Cave, 230, 259,
261, 424.
Celtic occupation, 70. 81,

110, 123, 126, 239, 287,

296, 311, 313, 324, 827,

377, 402, 439.
Celtic Wall, 109.
Chapel-le-Dale. 23, 129,

221. 223, 243, 245, 405.
Chester, 149, 197, 213.
Civil Wars. 88, 127. 280,

314, 317, 328, 445, 446.
Clapdale Hall, 147, 149,

153, 163, 174.
Clapham, 23, 114, 145,

162, 172, 178, 189, 349,

387, 441.
Clapham Wood Hall, 183.
Claughton, 162.
Cleatop, 382.
Cleveland, 299.
Coal Cleugh, 24.
Cold Cotes, 180, 385.

Colm Scar, 401,433.
Contston, 312, 318, 328,

329, 331, 372.
Cotherston, 427.
Cotter Force, 415.
County Stone, 240.
Coverham Abbey. 441.
Cowan Bridge, 270. 291.
Cowgill,421.
Cracoe, 293.
Crag Hill, 169, 240.
Craven, Agriculture, 92.
Anglo-Saxons in, see

Anglo-Saxon.
Animals, Wild, in, see

Animals.
Bank, 85, 382.
Birds, see Birds.
Botany, see Plants.
Boundaries, ancient, 147.
Caves, see Caves.
Celts in, see Celtic.
Civil Wars in, see Civil

Wars.
Coaching days in, 143,

152, 181.
Cross, 324.

Customs, see Customs.
Danes in, see Danish.
Druids' Circles in, see

Stone Circles.
Ducking-stool, last time

usod in, 314.
Echoes, 106, 329.
Extent of, 67.
Fault, 68, 131, 135, 155,

168,172,179,180,217.

232, 350, 419, 449.
Flowers and Ferns in, see

Plants.
Fruit-growing at high

altitude in, 358.
Geology, see Craven

Fault, Erratic boulders

Ice Age, Geological

section?, &c.
Harriers, 304, 315.
Inhabitants in 1379. 29.
Inns, 21, 87. 117, 113,

146, 321, 332.
Longevity in, 91,376,430
Men who fought at Flod-

den Field, 61.
Militia, 26.
Mountains, heights of,

22.
Nonconformity, 38 1 , 444.
Population, 20.
Population and Inn

Licenses, 21.
Plagues in, 96, 201, 370,

387.

467

Craven, cold inued. Ellerbeck, 212, 251. Grange, 25.

Rainfall, see Rainfall. Elslack, 133. •* Granite " quarries, 244.

Roads and Passes, 23. Embeay. 301, 366, 367. Grasmere, 434.

Romans in, see Roman. Erratic boulders, 111,119, Grassington, 83, 295, 321,

Scots iii.ra Scots. 161, 172, 221, 222, 316. 323, 324, 326, 336

Superstitions, see Cus- Eshton, 197, 301, 304, 318, Gray Scar, 181.
torn?. 320. Great Ormes Head, 241.

Cray, 343, 344. Exmoor, 296. Great Wham, 295, 336.

Creeping Steads, 227. Eyaua. 96. Great Whernside, 241, 295,

Crina Bottom, 179, 180, 333,336,337,341.

182. Farlton, 185, 217. Greenhow Hill, 24. 324.

Crooks, 365. Feizor, 105, 162, 163, 362, Greenwood Leghe, 180,213,

Cross of Greet, 1 84. Finchale Priory, 74, 99. 353 21 9.

Cross Streets, 138, 141. Flamborough Head. 331, Greasing ham, 208.
Crosthwaite, 848. 437. Gretna Green, 101.

Crummack, 162, 168, 169, Flashy, 300, 804, 315, 359. Greygarth. 204, 230, 258,

170. 235, 401. Flintergill, 422, 425, 433. 260, 449.

Customs and superstitions, Flodden Field, 61, 89,98, Grimes Hill, 447.

69, 87, 164, 199, 239, 280. Grimwith, 25.

397, 429. Floods. 834, 382, 433. Grizedale, 416, 4)7.

Foals Foot, 151. Guisborough, 396.

Danish occupation, 97, Fountains Abbey, 30, 250, Gunnerfleet, 255.

181, 207, 257, 259, 263, 314, 318, 321, 328, 346,

287, 312, 348, 421, 425, 354, 354, 371, 384, 400, HACKEHGILL. 422,423,425.

439. 402. Halifax, 25, 132, 191.

Deepdale, 263, 344, 411, Fountains Fell, 23, 30, 111, Halsteads, 214, 278.

424, 431. 241, 299, 321, 352, 350, Halton, 191, 368, 381.

Dent. 23, 129, 131, 210, 852, 372. Halton Gill, 23, 342, 346,

213, 257, 411, 416, 420, Four-Stones, 200. 348,372, 397.

423. 425, 433, 436, 440, Foxup, 346. Hanlith, 311. 315.

441, 448. Friar Head, 355. Hardraw, 25. 250, 412, 413.

Dentdale, 262, 345, 387, Furness Abbey, 178, 355, Hawes, 23, 343, 407, 412,

414, 420, 424. 400, 406, 407, 410. 417.

Dent Fault, 263, 449. Hawes Junction, 23, 25.

Dereham Abbey, 314. GARGRAVE, 252, 800,318, 416, 417.

Dernbrook, 357, 872. 355, 367. Headingley, 193.

Devil's Bridge, 274, 284, Garsdale, 414, 416. 418, Hebden, 372.

290. 419, 427, 439, 449. Hebrides, 321.

Devil's Pulpit, 424. Gastack Beck, 263. Hell Beck Lunds, 23, 278,

Devon, 140, 145, 349. Gawthorp, 162, 426, 433. 413.

Dewsburv, 386. Gayle, 412, 421. 439. Hellifield, 309, 329, 360,

Dodd Fell, 345. Gaze beck, 259, 263. 366, 375.

Doe beck, 225. Gearstones, 178, 179, 406. Helm Gill. 433.

Domesday survey, 27, 73. Geological sections, &c, Helvellyn, 140,235,241,398.
Dow Gill, 136, 391. 180, 181, 216, 229, 232, Helwith Bridge, 111, 131,

Downholme, 431. 235. 342, 391. 395, 422. 137, 352, 883.

Draughton, 212. Giants' Graves, 108, 345, Hesleden, 347, 372.

Driffield, 309. 348, 349. Hetton, 321.

Dublin, 296, 310, 350. Gibson's Green, 187. Holme, 162.

Ducking-stool, 314. Giessbach Falls, 435. Hornby Castle, 25, 200, 204,

Durham, 288, 381. Giggleswick, 67, 96, 134, 205.

185, 353, 378. Horse Head, 23, 24, 344.

Earl's Seat, 297. Giggleswick Scars, 100, 142. Horton-in-Craven, 366.

Easby Abbey, 419. Giggleswick Tarn, 70, 100, Horton-in-Ribblesdale. 67,

Ease Gill, 180, 182, 272, 143. 128, 136, 148, 162, 185,

448. Gisburn, 363, 366, 388. 191, 213, 372, 383, 390,

Ebbing and Flowing Well, God's Bridge, 235, 244, 250, 399.

70, 100, 102. 141. 410. Horton Tarn, 399.

Echoes, 106, 329 Goniersal, 99. Howdenshire, 187.

Eggleston Abbey, 442. Goole, 25. Howgill Fells, 263, 398

Elbolton, 293, 294. Gordale, 315, 316, 317, 318, 437, 438.

Eldroth, 162, 163. 320. Hubberholme, 340, 343,

463

Hull, 25. Kilnsea, 331. Mai ham Moor, 142, 31$.

Hunt's Cross, 180, 219. Kilnsey, 23, 321, 325, 328, 316. 321, 352, 355, 431. '
Hutton, 162, 208. 333, 340, 372. Malham Tarn. 23. 25, 119,

Kilnsey Crag, 829. 168, 242. 320, 352, 353,

Ibby Peril, 423. Kingsdale,23, 226, 257, 424. 355, 356, 358, 372.

Ice Age, 123, 169, 221,258, Kirkby Gill, 313. Maui Tor, 127.

330, 332, 359, 407. Kirkby Lonsdale, 25, 86, Manchester, 25, 284, 373,
Ice Age, duration of the, 162, 218, 264, 274, 287, 382, 398.

171, 255. 372, 428, 446. Marske, 426.

Ilkley, 67, 445, 446. Kirkby Malesart, 384. Marton, 212, 813, 339.

Ingleborough, 138, 160, Kirkby Malham, 67, 73, Masham, 356.

169, 172, 173, 179, 182, 75, 127, 312, 314, 315. Masongill, 258, 266.

219, 233, 250, 290, Kirkby Stephen, 23, 26, Mere Gill, 145.
297. 300, 337, 359, 399, 274, 416, 428, 432, 438. Mewith Head, 183.

438. Kirthwaite, 421, 431. Middleham, 74.

Ancient huts on, 239. Knaresbo rough, 361. Middlesmoor, 336, 844.

Beacon on, 238, 245. Knowe Gap, 179. Middleton. 283, 441, 445.

Botany of, 160, 236. Mill Gill Force, 418.

Entomology of, 287. Lady Pillar, 416. Minerals, 217, 294, 332, 350,

Extent of, 283. Lancaster, 25, 186, 191, 376,392,393.
Geology of, 234. 240, 241, 276, 284. Morecambe, 212, 240.

Hall, 142, 148, 152. Landholders in A.D. 1086, Mossdale Gill, 415.
Horse-racing on, 238. 27. Houghton Fell, 135, 168,

Primitive inhabitants of, Langcliffe, 70, 73, 99, 113, 401, 402.

238. 119. Mowbray, vale of, 209.

View from, 240. Langstrothdale, 68, 313, Much Wenlock, 126.
Inglehow, 311. 328, 339. 341, 343, 412.

Ingletou, 143, 178, 187, Lanshaw, 148, 163. Newby, 178, 202, 219.

205, 216, 378. 385, Lawkland. 139, 143, 148, Newcastle-on-Tyne, 219.
424, 427, 440, 441. 154, 162. Newsome, 366.

Faults, 219. Leek, 208, 270. Newton, 208, 362, 372.

Glens and Waterfalls, Leeds, 25, 101, 124, 132. Nidderdale, 162, 324, 329,

223. 142, 417. 356, 878, 395.

Scientific aspects of Lee Gate, 23, 318, 321,420. Norber, 161, 168, 401.

scenery of, 216. Lewes Priory, 386. North Cave, 78.

Streams, nomenclature Ley burn, 25, 339. North Duffield, 187.

of, 224. Ling Gill, 178, 399, 400,
Iugman Lodge, 179, 410. 405, 407. Otterbubn, 25, 147, 305,

Ingmire, 431, 444, 445. Linghaw Cross, 183. 307, 315, 353, 360.

Ireby, 208, 368, 278. Linton, 372. 402, 407. Oughtershaw, 25, 341, 844.

Isle of Man, 240, 259, 850, Litton, 78, 343, 347. Overborough,141,208,238,

442. Littondale, 332, 346. 281, 296, 340.

Isle of Wight, 140. Liverpool, 25. Oxford, 195, 339, 367, 443.

Locks, 99. Oysterber, 188.

Jbnkin Beck, 180, 181, Long chimney, 231.

217, 218. Long Preston, 162, 196, Painley, 366.
Jervaux Abbey, 884, 400. 360, 365, 375, 377. Paley Green, 139.

Jubilee, Her Majesty's, 86, Low Borrow Bridge, 283. Park Fell, 169. 400.

242, 371, 389. Lund Holme, 240, 278. Pateley, 25, 342.

Lumb cascade, 311. Pathorne, 163.

Keasden, 151, 183, 184. Lumb Falls, 184. Pecca Falls, 226, 228.

Keighley, 132. Lune, Vale of, 278. Pendle Hill, 84, 136, 241,

Kelbrook, 366. Lunds, 25, 416. 300.

Kelcowe, 141. Lupton, 162. Pendragon Castle, 340, 416.

Keld, 23, 24. Lyberston, 426 Penrith, 189.

Keld Head. 230, 259. Penyghent, 98. 172, 241.

Kendal, 93, 142, 202, 204, MALHAM, 98, 115, 308, 837,342,847,850,377.

348, 368, 428. 313, 317, 323, 352, 354, 380, 383, 390, 412.

Kettlewell, 23, 332, 833, 355, 372. Beagles, 398.

372. Malham Cove, 312, 315, Botany of, 395.
Kildwick, 212, 866. 892. Deer Forest, 397.

Killarney, 106, 126. Malhamdale, 305. Geology of, 285, 395.

469

Penyghent, View from, 398. Scafell Pike, 23, 25, 241, Storrs Common, 2$2.
Perigorde, 124. 242, 438. Stratford, 276.

Peter Castle, 349. Scaleber Force, 127. St. Al ban's. 332, 368.

Pilgrimage of Grace, 195, Scarborough. 187. St. Paul's, 195.

206, 362. Scarnber, 312. Stone Circles, 83, 256, 323,

Plagues, 96,201, 370, 387. Scotchergill, 422, 425. 382.

Plants, wild, 100,126,138, Scots, raids bv, 114, 189, Superstitions, see Customs.

160, 166, 167, 227, 230, 245, 254, 336", 349. Studfold, 187, 383.

255, 319, 324, 347, 350, Sedbergh, 23. 25, 208, 210, Swarth Gill, 418.

364,395, 415. 241, 292, 401, 417, 422, Swinden, 363, 364.

Pock Stones Moor, 298. 426, 427, 430, 432, 437, Swines Tail. 250.

Poll Tax for A.D. 1379, 29. 444. Symonds Yat, 295.

Portsmouth, 418. Sedbusk, 150, 439.

Pot-holes, how formed, 178 Selside, 181, 177, 178, 383, Tanfibld, 426.
Preston, 214, 241, 373. 400, 402, 410, 439. Tan Hill, 23, 24.

Seinerwater, 343. Tatham, 185, 196. 203, 204,

Queen of Fairies Settle, 25, 67, 77, 81, 96, 28-5.

Chaib, 184. Ill, 117,313,317,321, Tennant Gill, 322, 354, 359.

Queensbury, 25. 326, 350, 353, 362, 365, Thirnby, 208.

382,400,408. Thirsk, 91.

Baby, 205, 206. Agriculture, 92. Thoragill Fell, 359.

Rainfall, 25. and Carlisle Railway, Thorns, 179, 383, 406.

Rainscar, 23, 178. 179, 349. 129. 241, 246, 346. Thorn ton-in- Lonsdale, 187,

Ramsgill, 344. in Civil Wars, 88. 213, 217, 230, 258, 264,

Rathmell, 70, 73, 98, 148, Inns, 87, 117,143. 270.

360, 361, 375, 377. Trade, 94. Thornton Force, 224. 229,

Raven Castle, 184. Sharp Haw, 300, 307. 231, 235, 259.

Raven Scars, 243. Sheffield, 25. Thorpe, 293.

Ravensworth, 440. Sherwood Brow, 136. Threapland Gill, 293, 294.

Rawdon Billing, 242. Silverdale, 23, 347, 352, Threshold, 301, 329, 372.

Raysgill, 343, 344. 359. Thurland Castle, 280, 281,

Ribble, first mention of, 128 Silvery Dripping Falls, 228 440.
Ribble, source of. 406. Simon Fell. 158, 171, 176, Tideswell. 71.

Ribblehead, 23, 177, 178, 221,295. Torquay, 124.

340, 400, 405. Meaning of, 295. Tow Scar, 180, 219, 258.

Ribchester, 185, 283. Simon Howe, 295. Trow Gill, 153, 158. 174,

Richmond, 150, 188, 419. Simon's Bath, 295. 176.

Ripon, 197, 299, 302, 349, Simonstone, 413. Tunnels, list of long, 130.

355. Skipton, 26, 197, 293, 300, Tunstall, 185, 280, 291, 440.

Rise Hill, 263, 418, 436. 333,339,372,408.410. Twisleton, 181, 212, 219,

Robert Hall, 203. Skirethorns, 301. 225, 230, 245.

Robin Procter's Scar, 145, Slaidburn, 197. Twiss beck, 219, 221, 225,

172. Smearside, 85, 107, 146, 259.

Rochdale 199. 172.

Roman Beacons, 206, 238, Snowdon, 23, 234, 241. Ulvebston, 25.

312. South House Moor, 235. Underley Hall, 289, 290.

Bridges, 276. Southampton, 147.

Camps, 83, 110, 127,206, Southerscales Fell, 235. VIADUCTS, railway. 130.
239,281,324,336,412, Spa Wells, 278, 313, 332, Victoria Cave, 79, 118,
439. 376. 142, 326.

Coins, 125, 283, 327. •• Spectator," The, 193.

Mile-stones, 283, 447. Spofforth, 187, 367. WABBINGTON, 284.

Quarries, 83. Spurn Head, 25, 331. War sell, 322, 334.

Roads, 111, 141,185,274, Stackhouse, 73, 98, 107, Warton Crajr, 240, 300, 398,
282, 296, 313, 340, 416, 163, 178, 349. Wastdale Head, 140.

447. Stainforth, 73, 93, 131, Waterfall Gill, 312.

Roseberry Topping, 299. 1 63. 349, 366. Waterscale Wood, 183, 204,

Ryeloaf, 307, 311. Stainforth Force, 134. Wath, 488.

Rylstone, 293,307, 321, 401. Stamford Bridge, 209. Weathercote Cave, 226.

Standard of Burnmoor, 184 Weapons, ancient, 188.
Sallay Abbey, 106, 132, Starbottom, 23, 234, 339. Wennington, 141, 185, 204,

194, 346, 362, 363, 371. Stave ley, 426. 274.

470

Westhouse, 266.
Whalley, 376.
Wharfe, 162, 166.
Wharton, 162.
Whernside, 219, 236, 240,
251. 253, 255, 263, 403,
405.
Whinfell Beacon, 448.
Whitbv, 187.
Whitestone Cliff, 829.
Whittington, 208, 439.
Wigglesworth, 360, 362,
» 363. 866, 371, 372, 375.

Winchester, 286.
Windsor, 397, 442.
Winskill, 116,131.
Winterburn, 304, 855.
Winterscale, 179, 255.
Wisedale, 225, 243, 245.
Woodlesford, 407.

Yallas Gill, 411.
Yarlsber, 180, 181.
Yarlside, 398, 438.
Yockenthwaite, 344, 345.

York, 25, 195, 276. 323,

337, 368, 398.
Yorkshire, Area of, 20.
Heights of Mountains,

22.
Heights of Roads and

Passes, 23.
Heights of Towns and

Villages, 24.
Highest houses, &c., in,

24.
Population. 20.
Rainfall, 25.

Crown 8ro„ 366 pp., Cletk Zimp 5/-, net 3/9, Sy j

THROUGH AIREDALE
GOOLE TO MALHAM,

Including eihsuBtive chapters on the
eoloqt, Botany, Ornithology, Folk Lore, a

JOHNNIE GRAY,

(H. Speight)
Author of " The Craven and North- Wwt Yorhihir? Highland:" He., ete.

Skipton Castle.

SEVENTY ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAP.

LOCAL AND OTHER OPINIONS.

o district is complete, his way of finding with it

varied information we know of no Yorkshire guide-book superior to thia. •
Urdt Urrcury.— There 19 excellent classification, while the objects of interest are sucdnctly

and thoughtfully described, and not simply glanced at.
Tlnutford Obi^nr. — A work of topographical value immeasurably beyond anything

previously attempted in the way of a Yorkshire guide-bouk. It is like looking

through a telescope at the stars, or at a drop of water through a microscope. The

printing and get-up of the book are unexceptionable,
Pmu/raa AAvtrtiKr.— It is much more than a guide-book, for In its three hundred and

odd pages ia ranged mass of well-digested information which seems to embrace

every subject of interest. We know nothing to equal it, or to pretend to the

smallest rivalry with it.
Scotoma*.— No one going through this port of Yorkshire could have a better companion.

It goes minutely into historical and topographical details, and is well illustrated.
Graphic— Very useful and well-arranged.

LEEDS: Walker & I.aycock. BBADFOUD: T. Bbear & Co, LD.
SKIPTON : Edudndson & Co. GOOLE ; GARDINER k Co.

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