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The Cooks Decameron 


The original of this book is in 
the Cornell University Library. 

There are no known copyright restrictions in 
the United States on the use of the text. 


James B. Herndon, Jr. 


School of Hotel 
A dministration 




By A. Escoffibr. 

Demy Svo. 12s. 6d. net. 

'The congratulations of happy diners, the respects 
of the cognoscenti, the glory of being the greatest 
artist of one's time — these are reflected in Mr. EscofHer's 
Preface to a volume which must be unique of its kind.' 
—Daily Telegraph. 


By F. A. Steel and Grace Gardiner. 

Crown 8vo. 6s. net. 

' The best work ever produced on Indian House- 
keeping and Cookery.' — Saturday Rtvivm. 









"Show me another pleasure like dinner, which comes every 
day and lasts an hour." — Talleyrand (?) 




Printed in Groat Britain 

. t\As 



Ml right' rnitvrd 


A. V. 




Montaigne in one of his essays 1 mentions the 
high excellence Italian cookery had attained in 
his day. " I have entered into this Discourse 
upon the Occasion of an Italian I lately receiv'd 
into my Service, and who was Clerk of the 
Kitchen to the late Cardinal Caraffa till his 
Death. I put this Fellow upon an Account of 
his office : Where he fell to Discourse of this 
Palate- Science, with such a settled Countenance 
and Magisterial Gravity, as if he had been 
handling some profound Point of Divinity. He 
made a Learned Distinction of the several sorts 
of Appetites, of that of a Man before he begins 
to eat, and of those after the second and third 
Service : The Means simply to satisfy the first, 
and then to raise and acuate the other two : The 
ordering of the Sawces, first in general, and then 
proceeded to the Qualities of the Ingredients, 
and their Effects : The Differences of Sallets, 

1 L ..5i- 


according to their seasons, which ought to be 
serv'd up hot, and which cold : The Manner of 
their Garnishment and Decoration, to render 
them yet more acceptable to the Eye? after 
which he 'entered upon the Order of the whole 
Service, full of weighty and important Considera- 

It is consistent with Montaigne's large-minded 
habit thus to applaud ihe gifts of this master of 
his art who happened not to be a Frenchman. 
It is a canon of belief with the modern English- 
man that the French alone can achieve excellence i 
in the art of cookery, and when once a notion 
of this sort shall have found a lodgment in an 
Englishman's brain, the task of removing it will 
be a hard one. Not for a moment is it suggested 
that Englishmen or any one else should cease to 
recognise the sovereign merits of French cookery; 
all that is entreated is toleration, and perchance 
approval, of cookery of other schools. But the 
favourable consideration of any plea of this sort 
is hindered by the fact that the vast majority of 
Englishmen when they go abroad find no other 
school of cookery by the testing of which they 
may form a comparison, This universal preva- 
lence of French cookery may be held to be a 
proof of its supreme excellence — that it is first, 
and the rest nowhere ; but the victory is not so 


complete as it seems, and the facts would bring 
grief and humiliation rather than patriotic pride 
to the heart of a Frenchman like Brillat Savarin. 
For the cookery we meet in the hotels of the 
great European cities, though it may be based on 
French traditions, is not the genuine thing, but' 
a bastard, cosmopolitan growth, the same every- 
where, and generally vapid and uninteresting. 
French cookery of the grand school suffers by 
being associated with such commonplace achieve- 
ments. It is noted in the following pages how 
rarely English people on their travels penetrate 
where true Italian cookery may be tasted, where- 
fore it has seemed worth while to place within 
the reach of English housewives some Italian 
recipes which are especially fitted for the presen- 
tation of English fare to English palates under a 
different and not unappetising guise. Most of 
them will be found simple and inexpensive, and 
special care has been taken to include those 
recipes which enable the less esteemed portions 
of meat and the cheaper vegetables and fish to be 
treated more elaborately than they have hitherto 
been treated by English cooks. 

The author wishes to tender her acknowledg- 
ments to her husband for certain suggestions and 
emendations made in the revision of the intro- 
duction, and for his courage in dining, "greatly 


daring," off many of the dishes. He still lives 
and thrives. Also to Mrs. Mitchell, her cook, 
for the interest and enthusiasm she has shown in 
the work, for her valuable advice, and for the care 
taken in testing the recipes. 



Prologue i 

The First Day 16 

The Second Day 21 

The Third Day 28 

The Fourth Day 35 

The Fifth Day . .42 

The Sixth Day 49 

The Seventh Day 56 

The Eighth Day 61 

The Ninth Day 71 

The Tenth Day 78 



1. Espagnole or Brown 

Sauce .... 

2. Velut£ Sauce . . 

3. Bechamel Sauce . 

4. Mirepoix Sauce (for 

masking) 98 

5. Genoese Sauce 

6. Italian Sauce . . 

7. Ham Sauce (Salsa di 

Prosciutto) . . . 



, NO. 


8. Tarragon Sauce . . . 



9. Tomato Sauce .... 


10. Tomato Sauce Piquante 



1 1. Mushroom Sauce . . . 



12. Neapolitan Sauce . . . 



13. Neapolitan Anchovy 



14. Roman Sauce (Salsa 


Agro-dolce) .... 



15. Roman Sauce (another 

16. Supreme Sauce . . . 







17. Pasta Marinata (for 

masking Italian Frys) 102 

18. White Villeroy ... 102 












Clear Soup 103 

Zuppa Primaverile 

(Spring Soup) ... 103 

Soup alia Lombard* . . 103 

Tuscan Soup .... 104 

Venetian Soup . . . 104. 

Roman Soup .... 104 

Soup alia Nazionale . . 104 

Soup alia Modanese . . 105 

Crotopo Soup .... 105 

Soup all' Imperatrice . ioj 

Neapolitan Soup . . . 105 

Soup with Risotto . . 106 

Soup alia Canavese . . 106 

Soup alia Maria Pia . . 106 
Zuppa d' Erbe (Lettuce 

Soup) 107 

Zuppa Regina di Riso 

(Queen's Soup) 



3J. A Condiment for Season- 
ing Minestre, &c. . . 108 

36. Minestra alia Casalinga . 108 

37. Minestra of Rice and 

Turnips 108 

38. Minestra alia Capucina . 109 

39. Minestra of Semolina . 109 
Minestrone alia Milanese 109 
Minestra of Rice and 

Cabbage no 

Minestra of Rice and 

Celery no 




43. Anguilla alia Milanese 

(Eels) in 

44. Filletti di Pesce alia 

Villeroy (Fillets of 
Fish) m 

45. Astachi all' Italiana 

(Lobster) ill 

46. Baccala alia Giardiniera 

(Cod) 112 


47. Triglie alia Marmara 


48. Mullet alia Tolosa . . 

49. Mullet alia Triestina 

50. Whiting alia Genovese . 

5 1. Merluzzo in Bianco (Cod) 

52. Merluzzo in Salamoia 

(Cod) ...... 

5 3. Baccala in Istufato (Had- 

dock) .' 

54. Naselh con Piselli (Whit- 

°tag) ...... 

55- Ostriche alia Livornese 

56. Ostriche alia Napolitana 


57. Ostriche alia Veneziana 


58. Pesci diversi alia Casa- 

linga (Fish) .... 

59. Pesce alia Genovese 

(Sole or Turbot) . . 

60. Sogliole in Zimino (Sole) 

61. Sogliole al tegame(Sole) 

62. Sogliole alia Livornese 


63. Sogliole alia Veneziana 


64. Sogliole alia Parmigiana 


65. Salmone alia Genovese 


66. Salmone alia Perigo 


67. Salmone alia giardiniera 


68. Salmone alia Famese 

(Salmon) . \ . . . 

69. Salmone alia Santa Fior- 

entina (Salmon) . . 

70. Salmone alia Francesca 

(Salmon) . . . . . 

71. Fillets of Salmon in Papi- 


Beef, Mutton, Vbal, Lamb, &c. 

72. Manzo alia Certosina 

(Fillet of Beef ) . . . 12* 



73. Stufato alia Fiorentina 

(Stewed Beef) ... 121 

74. Coscia d i Manzo al Forno 

(Rump Steak) ... 122 
75- Polpettine alia Salsa Pic- 

cante (Beef Olives) . 122 

76. Stufato alia Milanese 

(Stewed Beef) . . , 12a 

77. Manzo Marinato Arrosto 

(Marinated Beef) . . 122 

78. Manzo con sugo di Bar- 

babietole (Fillet of 
Beef) 123 

79. Manzo in Insalata (Mari- 

nated Beef) .... 123 

80. Filetto di Bue con Pis- 

tacchi (Fillets of Beef 
with Pistacchios) . . 123 

81. Scalopini di Riso (Beef 

with Risotto) . . . 124 

82. Tenerumi alia Piemon- 

tese (Tendons of 
Veal) 124 

83. Bragiuole di Vitello 

(Veal Cutlets) ... 124 

84. Costolette alia Monza 

(Veal Cutlets) ... 125 

85. Vitello alia Pellegrina 

(Breast of Veal) . . 125 

86. Frittura Piccata al Mar- 

sala (Fillet of Veal) . 125 

87. Polpettine Distese (Veal 

Olives) 126 

88. Coste di Vitello Imbor- 

acciate (Ribs of Veal) 126 

89. Costolette di Montone 

alia Nizzarda (Mutton 
Cutlets) 126 

90. Petto di Castrato all' 

Italiana (Breast of 
Mutton) 127 

91. Petto di Castrato alia 

Salsa piccante (Breast 

of Mutton) .... 127 

92. Tenerumi d' Agnello alia 

Villeroy (Tendons of 
Lamb) 127 

93. Tenerumi d' Agnello alia 

Veneziana (Tendons of 
Lamb) 127 


94. Costolette d'Agnello alia 
Costanza (Lamb Cut- 
lets) ...... 128 

Tongue, Sweetbread, Calf's 
Head, Liver, Sucking Pig, &c. 

95. Timballo alia Romana . 129 

96. Timballo alia Lombarda 129 

97. Lingua alia Visconti 

(Tongue) 130 

98. Lingua di Manzo ai Cit- 

riuoli (Tongue with 
Cucumber) .... 

99. Lingue di Castrato alia 

Cuciniera (Sheep's 
Tongues) 130 

100. Lingue di Vitello all' 

Italiana (Calves' Ton- 
gues) ...... 

101. Porcelletto alia Corra- 

dino (Sucking Pig) . 

102. Porcelletto da Latte in 

Galantina (Sucking 


103. Ateletti alia Sarda . . 

104. Ateletti alia Genovese . 

105. Testa di Vitello alia Sor- 

rentina (Calfs Head) 

106. Testa di Vitello con 

Salsa Napoletana 
(Calf's Head) . . . 

107. Testa di Vitello alia Pom- 

padour (Calf's Head) 

108. Testa di Vitello alia 

Sanseverino (Calf's 

109. Testa di Vitello in Frit- 

tata (Calf's Head) . . 
no. Zampetti (Calves' Feet) 
in. Bodini Marinati . . . 

112. Animelle alia Parme- 

giana (Sweetbread) . 

113. Animelle in Cartoccio 

(Sweetbread) . . . 

114. Animelle all' Italiana 

(Sweetbread) . . . 

115. Animelle Lardellate 

(Sweetbread) . . . 137 














116. Frittura di Bottoni e di 

Animelle (Sweetbread 

and Mushrooms) . . 137 

117. Cervello in Filiserbe 

(Calf's Brains) . . . 13S 

118. Cervello alia Milanese 

(Calf s Brains) ... 138 

119. Cervello alia Villeroy 

(Calf's Brains) ... 138 

120. Frittura of Liver and 

Brains 138 

121. Cervello in FrittataMon- 

tano (Calf's Brains) . 138 

122. Marinata di Cervello 

alia Villeroy (Calf's 
Brains) 139 

123. Minuta alia Milanese 

(Lamb's Sweetbread) 139 

124. Animelle al Sapor di 

Targone (Lamb's Fry) 139 

125. Fritto Misto alia Villeroy 140 

126. Fritto Misto alia Pie- 

montese 140 

127. Minuta di Fegatini (Ra- 

gout of Fowls' Livers) 141 

128. Minuta alia Visconti 

(Chickens' Livers) . 141 

129. Croutons alia Princi- 

pesca 141 

130. Croutons alia Romana . 142 

Fowl, Dock, Game, Hare, 
Rabbit, &c. 

131. Soffiato di Cappone 

(FowlSouffte) ... 143 

132. Polio alia Fiorentina 

(Chicken) .... 143 

133. Polio all' Oliva(Chicken) 144 

134. Polio alia Villereccia 

(Chicken) .... 144 

135. Polio alia Cacciatora 

(Chicken) .... 144 

136. Poll astro alia Lorenese 

I (Fowl) 144 

137. Pollastro in Fricassea al 

Burro (Fowl) ... 145 

138. Pollastro in istufa di 

Pomidoro (Braised 
Fowl) 145 


139. Cappone con Riso 

(Capon with Rice) . 145 

140. Dindo Arrosto alia 

Milanese (Roast 
Turkey) 145 

141. Tacchinotto all' Istriona 

(Turkey Poult) ... 146 

142. Fagiano alia Napoletana 

(Pheasant) .... 146 

143. Fagiano alia Perigo 

(Pheasant) .... 146 

144. Anitra Selvatica (Wild 

Duck) 147 

145. Perniciotti alia Gastalda 

(Partridges) .... 147 

146. Beccaccini alia Diplo- 

matica (Snipe) . . . 148 

147. Piccioni alia minuta 

(Pigeons) . . . _ . . 149 

148. Piccioni in Ripieno 

(Stuffed Pigeons) . . 149 

149. Lepre in istufato (Stewed 

Hare) 149 

150. Lepre Agrodolce (Hare) 150 

151. Coniglio alia Provenzale 

(Rabbit) 150 

152. Coniglio arrostito alia 

Corradino (Roast 
Rabbit) 150 

153. Coniglio in salsa Pic- 

cante (Rabbit) . . . 151 


154. Asparagi alia salsa Sup- 

rema (Asparagus) . . 152 

155. Cavoli di Bruxelles alia 

Savoiarda (Brussels 
Sprouts) 152 

156. Barbabietola alia Parmi- 

giana (Beetroot) . . 152 

157. Fave alia Savoiarda 

(Beans) 153 

158. Verze alia Capuccina 

(Cabbage) . . . . 153 

159. Cavoli fiori alia Lionese 

(Cauliflower) . . . 153 

160. Cavoli fiori fritti (Cauli- 

flower) 153 




161; Cauliflower alia Parmi- 
giana 153 

162. Cavoli Fiori Ripieni . . 154 

163. Sedani alia Parmigiana 

(Celery) 154 

164. Sedani fritti all' italiana 

(Celery) . . . . . 154 

165. Cetriuoli alia Parmigiana 

(Cucumber) . . . . 154 

166. Cetriuoli alia Borghese 

(Cucumber) .... 155 

167. Carote al sughillo 

(Carrots) 155 

168. Carote e piselli alia panna 

(Carrots and Peas) . 155 

169. Verze alia Certosina 

(Cabbage) . . . . 155 

170. Lattughe al sugo (Lettuce) 156 

171. Lattughe farcite alia 

Genovese (Lettuce) . 156 

172. Funghi cappelle infarcite 

(Stuffed Mushrooms) . 156 

173. Verdure miste (Mace*- 

doine of Vegetables) . 157 

174. Patate alia crema (Pota- 

toes in cream) . . . 157 

175. Cestelline di patate alia 

giardiniera (Potatoes) 157 

176. Patate al Pomidoro 

(Potatoes with Tomato 
Sauce) 157 

177. Spinaci alia Milanese 

(Spinach) 158 

178. Insalatadi patate (Potato , 

salad) ...... 158 

179. Insalata alia Navarino 

(Salad) 158 

180. Insalata di pomidoro 

(Tomato Salad) . . 159 

181. Tartufi alia Dino (Truf- 

fles) 159 

Macaroni, Rice, Polenta, and 
other Italian Pastes 

182. Macaroni with Tomatoes 160 

183. Macaroni alia Casalinga 160 

184. Macaroni al Sughillo . 160 

185. Macaroni alia Livornese 161 


186. Tagliarelle and Lobster 

187. Polenta 

188. Polenta Pasticciata . 

189. Battuffoli .... 

190. Risotto all' Italiana . 

191. Risotto alia Genovese 

192. Risotto alia Spagnuola 

193. Risotto alia Capuccina 

194. Risotto alia Parigina 
195.- Ravioli 

196. Ravioli alia Fiorentina 

197. Gnbcchi alia Romana 

198. Gnocchi alia Lombarda 

199. Frittata di Riso (Savoury 

Rice Pancake) . . . 

l62 1 

1 164 
I6 S | 


Omelettes and other Egg 


Uova ai Tartufi 

with Truffles) 
Uova al Pomidoro (Eggs 

and Tomatoes) . . 
Uova ripiene (Canape: 

ofEgg) .... 
Uova alia Fiorentina 

(Eggs) . . 
Uova in fili (Egg Can 

apes) . . . 
Frittata di funghi (Mush 

room Omelette) 
Frittata cofi Pomidoro 

(Tomato Omelette) 
Frittata con Asparagi 

(Asparagus Omelette) 
Frittata con erbe (Ome- 
lette with Herbs) 
Frittata Montata (Ome 

lette Souffle) . 
210. Frittata di Prosciutto 

(Ham Omelette) 

Sweets and Cakes 






211. Bodino of Semolina . . 171 

212. Crema rappresa (Coffee 

Cream) 171 



21 3- 




Crema Montata alle 
Fragole (Strawberry 
Cream) . , . . . 172 

Croccante di Mandorle 
(Cream Nougat) . . 172 

Crema tartara alia Cara- 
mella(CaramelCream) 172 

Cremona Cake . . . 173 

Cake alia Tolentina . . 173 

218. Riso all' Imperatrice 

219. Amaretti leggieri (Al 

mond Cakes) . . 

220. Cakes alia Livornese 

221. Genoese Pastry . . 

222. Zabajone .... 

223. Iced Zabajone. . . 

224. Pan-forte di Siena (Sien 

ese Hardbake) . . 






The Marchesa di Sant' Andrea finished her early 
morning cup of tea, and then took up the batch 
of correspondence which her maid had placed 
on the tray. The world had a way of treating 
her in kindly fashion, and hostile or troublesome 
letters rarely veiled their ugly faces under the 
envelopes addressed to her ; wherefore the per- 
fection of that pleasant half-hour lying between 
the last sip of tea and the first step to meet the 
new day was seldom marred by the perusal of 
her morning budget. The apartment which she 
graced with her seemly presence was a choice 
one in the Mayfair Hotel, one which she had 
occupied for the past four or five years during 
her spring visit to London ; a visit undertaken 
to keep alive a number of pleasant English 
friendships which had begun in Rome or Malta. 
London had for her the peculiar attraction it has 


for so many Italians, and the weeks she spent 
upon its stones were commonly the happiest of 
the year. 

The review she took of her letters before 
breaking the seals first puzzled her, and then 
roused certain misgivings in her heart. She 
recognised the handwriting of each of the nine 
addresses, and at the same time recalled the fact 
that she was engaged to dine with every one of 
the correspondents of this particular morning. 
Why should they all be writing to her ? She 
had uneasy forebodings of postponement, and 
she hated to have her engagements disturbed ; 
but it was useless to prolong suspense, so she 
began by opening the envelope addressed in the 
familiar handwriting of Sir John Oglethorpe, and 
this was what Sir John had to say — 

"My dear Marchesa, — Words, whether written 
or spoken, are powerless to express my present 
state of mind. In the first place, our dinner on 
Thursday is impossible, and in the second, I have 
lost Narcisse — -and for ever. You commented 
favourably upon that supreme of lobster and the 
Ris de veau a la Renaissance we tasted last week, 
but never again will you meet the handiwork 
of Narcisse. He came to me with admirable 
testimonials as to his artistic excellence; with 


regard to his moral past I was, I fear, culpably 
negligent, for I now learn that all the time he 
presided over my stewpans he was wanted by 
the French police on a charge of murdering his 
wife. A young lady seems to have helped him, 
so I fear Narcisse has broken more than one of 
the commandments in this final escapade. The 
truly great have ever been subject to these 
momentary aberrations, and Narcisse being now 
in the hands of justice — so called — our dinner 
must needs stand over, though not, I hope, for 
long. Meantime the only consolation I can per- 
ceive is the chance of a cup of tea with you this 
afternoon. J. O." 

Sir John Oglethorpe had been her husband's 
oldest and best friend. He and the Marchese 
had first met in' Sardinia, where they had both 
of them gone in pursuit of woodcock, and since 
the Marchesa had been a widow, she and Sir John 
had met either in Rome or in London every 
year. The dinner so tragically manqud had been 
arranged to assemble a number of Anglo-Italian 
friends ; and, as Sir John was as perfect as a host 
as Narcisse was as a cook, the disappointment 
was a heavy one. She threw aside the letter 
with a gesture of vexation, and opened the 


" Sweetest Marchesa," it began, " how can I 
tell you my grief at having to postpone our 
dinner for Friday. My wretched cook (I gave 
her seventy-five pounds a year), whom I have long 
suspected of intemperate habits, was hopelessly 
inebriated last night, and had to be conveyed out 
of the house by my husband and a dear, devoted 
friend who happened to be dining with us, and 
deposited in a four-wheeler. May I look in to- 
morrow afternoon and pour out my grief to you ? 
— Yours cordially, 

" Pamela St. Aubyn Fothergill." 

When the Marchesa had opened four more 
letters, one from Lady Considine, one from Mrs. 
Sinclair, one from Miss Macdonnell, and one 
from Mrs. Wilding, and found that all these 
ladies were obliged to postpone their dinners on 
account of the misdeeds of their cooks, she felt 
that the laws of average were all adrift. Surely 
the three remaining letters must contain news of 
a character to counterbalance what had already 
been revealed, but the event showed that, on this 
particular morning, Fortune was in a mood to 
strike hard. Colonel Trestrail, who gave in his 
chambers carefully devised banquets, compounded 
by a Bengali who was undoubtedly something of 
a genius, wrote to say that this personage had 


left at a day's notice, in order to embrace 
Christianity and marry a lady's-maid who had 
just come into a legacy of a thousand pounds 
under the will of her late mistress. Another 
correspondent, Mrs. Gradinger, wrote that her 
German cook had announced that the dignity of 
womanhood was, in her opinion, slighted by the 
obligation to prepare food for others in exchange 
for mere pecuniary compensation. Only on con- 
dition of the grant of perfect social equality 
would she consent to stay, and Mrs. Gradinger, 
though she held advanced opinions, was hardly 
advanced far enough to accept this suggestion. 
Last of all, Mr. Sebastian van der Roet was" 
desolate to announce that his cook, a Japanese, 
whose dishes were, in his employer's estimation, 
absolute inspirations, had decamped and taken 
with him everything of value he could lay hold 
of; and more than desolate, that he was forced 
to postpone the pleasure of welcoming the Mar- 
chesa di Sant' Andrea at his table. 

When she had finished reading this last 
note, the Marchesa gathered the whole mass 
of her morning's correspondence together, and 
uttering a few Italian words which need not 
be translated, rolled it into a ball and hurled 
the same to the farthest corner of the room. 
"How is it," she ejaculated, "that these 


English, who dominate the world abroad, cannot 
get their food properly cooked at home? I 
suppose it is because they, in their lofty way, 
look upon cookery as a non-essential, and conse- 
quently fall victims to gout and dyspepsia, or into 
the clutches of some international brigandaccio, 
who declares he is a cordon bleu. One hears 
now and again pleasant remarks about the worn- 
out Latin races, but I know of one Latin race 
which can do better than this in cookery." And 
having thus delivered herself, the Marchesa 
lay back on the pillows and reviewed the situa- 

She was sorry in a way to miss the Colonel's 
dinner. The dishes which the Bengali cook 
turned out were excellent, but the host himself 
was a trifle dictatorial and too fond of the sound 
of his own voice, while certain of the inevitable 
guests were still worse. Mrs. Gradinger's letter 
came as a relief ; indeed the Marchesa had been 
wondering why she had ever consented to go 
and pretend to enjoy herself by eating an ill- 
cooked dinner in company with social reformers 
and educational prigs. She really went because 
she liked Mr. Gradinger, who was as unlike his 
wife as possible, a stout youth of forty, with a 
breezy manner and a decided fondness for sport. 
Lady Considine's dinners were indifferent, and 


the guests were apt to be a bit too smart and 
too redolent of last season's Monte Carlo odour. 
The Sinclairs gave good dinners to perfectly 
selected guests, and by reason of this virtue — 
one not too common — the host and hostess might 
be pardoned for being a little too well satisfied 
with themselves and with their last new bibelot. 
The FothergiH dinners were like all other dinners 
given by the Fothergills of society. They were 
costly, utterly undistinguished, and invariably 
graced by the presence of certain guests who 
seemed to have been called in out of the street 
at the last moment. Van der Roet's Japanese 
menus were curious, and at times inimical to 
digestion, but the personality of the host was 
charming. As to Sir John Oglethorpe, the 
question of the dinner postponed troubled her 
little : another repast, the finest that London's 
finest restaurant could furnish, would certainly 
be forthcoming before long. In Sir John's case, 
her discomposure took the form of sympathy 
for her friend in his recent bereavement. He 
had been searching all his life for a perfect cook, 
and he had found, or believed he had found, such 
an one in Narcisse ; wherefore the Marchesa was 
fully persuaded that, if that artist should evade 
the guillotine, she would again taste his incom- 
parable handiwork, even though he were sus- 


pected of murdering his whole family as well as 
the -partner of his joys. 

That same afternoon a number of the balked 
entertainers foregathered in the Marchesa's draw- 
ing-room, the dominant subject of discourse being 
the approaching dissolution of London society 
from the refusal of one human to cook food for 
another. Those present were gathered in two 
groups. In one the Colonel, in spite of the 
recent desertion of his Oriental, was asserting 
that the Government should be required to bring 
over consignments of perfectly trained Indian 
cooks, and thus trim the balance between dining- 
room' and kitchen ; and to the other Mrs. Grad- 
inger, a gaunt, ill-dressed lady in spectacles, with 
a commanding nose and dull, wispy hair, was 
proclaiming in a steady metallic voice, that it 
was absolutely necessary to double the school- 
rate at once in order to convert all the girls, 
and some of the boys as well, into perfectly 
equipped food-cooking animals ; but her audience 
gradually fell away, and in an interval of silence 
the voice of the hostess was heard giving utter- 
ance to a tentative suggestion. 

" But, my dear, it is inconceivable that the 
comfort and the movement of society should 
depend on the humours of its servants. I don't 
blame them for refusing to cook if they dislike 


cooking, and can find other work as light and as 
well paid ; but, things being as they are, I would 
suggest that we set to work somehow to make 
ourselves independent of cooks." 

" That 'somehow ' is the crux, my dear Livia," 
said Mrs. Sinclair. " I have a plan of my own, 
but I dare not breathe it, for I'm sure Mrs. 
Gradinger would call it 'anti-social,' whatever 
that may mean." 

" I should imagine that it is a term which 
might be applied to any scheme which robs 
society of the ministrations of its cooks," said 
Sir John. 

" I have heard mathematicians declare that 
what is true of the whole is true of its parts," 
said the Marehesa. " I daresay it is, but I never 
stopped to inquire. I will amplify on my own 
account, and lay down that what is true of the 
parts must be true of the whole. I'm sure that 
sounds quite right. Now I, as a unit of society, 
am independent of cooks because I can cook 
myself, and if all the other units were independ- 
ent, society itself would be independent — ecco ! " 

"To speak in this tone of a serious science 
like Euclid seems rather frivolous," said Mrs. 
-Gradinger. " I may observe — " but here merci- 
fully the observation was checked by the entry 
of Mrs. St. Aubyn Fothergill. 


She was a handsome, woman, always dominated 
by an air of serious preoccupation, sumptuously, 
but not tastefully dressed. In the social struggle 
upwards, wealth was the only weapon she pos- 
sessed, and wealth without dexterity has been 
known to fail before this. She made efforts, 
indeed, to imitate Mrs. Sinclair in the elegancies 
of mSnage, and to pose as a woman of mind after 
the pattern of Mrs. Gradinger ; but the task first 
named required too much tact, and the other 
powers of endurance which she did not possess. 

"You'll have some tea, Mrs. Fothergill ?" said 
the Marchesa. "It's so good of you to have 
come.' 1 

" No, really, I can't take any tea ; in fact, I 
couldn't 4ake any lunch out of vexation at having 
to put you off, my dear Marchesa." 

" Oh, these accidents will occur. We were just 
discussing the best way of getting round them," 
said the Marchesa. "Now, dear" — speaking to 
Mrs. Sinclair — " let's have your plan. Mrs. Grad- 
inger has fastened like a leech on the Canon 
and Mrs. Wilding, and won't hear a word of 
what you have to say." 

" Well, my scheme is just an amplification of 
your mathematical illustration's, that we should all 
learn to cook for ourselves. I regard it no longer 
as impossible, or even difficult, since you have 


informed us that you are a mistress of the art. 
We'll start a new school of cookery, and you shall 
teach us all you know." 

" Ah, my dear Laura, you are like certain 
English women in the hunting field. You are 
inclined to rush your fences," said the Marchesa 
with a deprecatory gesture. " And just look at 
the people gathered here in this room. Wouldn't 
they — to continue the horsey metaphor — be rather 
an awkward team to drive ? " 

" Not at all, if you had them in suitable sur- 
roundings. Now, supposing some beneficent 
millionaire were to lend us for a month or so a 
nice country house, we might instal you there as 
Mistress of the stewpans, and sit at your feet as 
disciples," said Mrs. Sinclair. 

" The idea seems first-rate," said Van der 
Roet; "and I suppose, if we are good little 
boys and girls, and learn our lessons properly, 
we may be allowed to taste some of our own 

" Might not that lead to a confusion between 
rewards and punishments ? " said Sir John. 

" If ever it comes to that," said Miss Macdonnell 
with a mischievous glance out of a pair of dark, 
flashing Celtic eyes, " I hope that our mistress 
will inspect carefully all pupils' work before we 
are asked to eat it. I don't want to sit down to 


another of Mr. Van der Roet's Japanese salads 
made of periwinkles and wallflowers." 

" And we must first catch our millionaire," said 
the Colonel. 

During these remarks Mrs. Fothergill had been 
standing " with parted lips and straining eyes," 
the eyes of one who is seeking to " cut in." Now 
came her chance. " What a delightful idea dear 
Mrs. Sinclair's is. We have been dreadfully ex- 
travagant this year over buying pictures, and 
have doubled our charitable subscriptions, but I 
believe I can still promise to act in a humble way 
the part of Mrs. Sinclair's millionaire. We have 
just finished doing up the ' Laurestinas,' a little 
place we bought last year, and it is quite at 
your service, Marchesa, as soon as you like to 
occupy it." 

This unlooked-for proposition almost took away 
the Marchesa's breath. "Ah, Mrs. Fothergill," 
she said, " it was Mrs. Sinclair's plan, not mine. 
She kindly wishes to turn me into a cook for I 
know not how long, just at the hottest season of 
the year, a fate I should hardly have chosen for 

"My dear, it would be a new sensation, and 
one you would enjoy beyond everything. I am 
sure it is a scheme every one here will hail with 
acclamation," said Mrs. Sinclair. All other con- 


versation had now ceased, and the eyes of the 
rest of the company were fixed on the speaker. 
" Ladies and gentlemen," she went on, "you have 
heard my suggestion, and you have heard Mrs. 
Fothergill's most kind and opportune offer of her 
country house as the seat of our school of cookery. 
Such an opportunity is one in ten thousand. Surely 
all of us — even the Marchesa — must see that it is 
one not to be neglected." 

" I approve thoroughly," said Mrs. Gradinger ; 
" the acquisition of knowledge, even in so material 
a field as that of cookery, is always a clear gain." 

"It will give Gradinger a chance to- put in a 
couple of days at Ascot," whispered Van der 

"Where Mrs. Gradinger leads, all must follow," 
said Miss Macdonnell. " Take the sense of the 
meeting, Mrs. Sinclair, before the Marchesa has 
time to enter a protest." 

" And is the proposed instructress to have 
no voice in the matter ? " said the Marchesa, 

" None at all, except to consent," said Mrs. 
Sinclair ; " you are going to be absolute mistress 
over us for the next fortnight, so you surely might 
obey just this once." 

"You have been denouncing one of our 
cherished institutions, Marchesa," said Lady 


Considine, " so I consider you are bound to 
help us to replace the British cook by some- 
thing better." 

" If Mrs. Sinclair has set her heart on this 
interesting experiment, you may as well consent 
at once, Marchesa," said the Colonel, "and 
teach us how to cook, and — what may be a 
harder task — to teach us to eat what other 
aspirants may have cooked." 

" If this scheme really comes off," said Sir 
John, " I would suggest that the Marchesa 
should always be provided with a plat of her 
own up her sleeve — if I may use such an ex- 
pression — so that any void in the menu, caused 
by failure on the part of the under-skilled or 
over-ambitious amateur, may be filled by what 
will certainly be a chef-d'oeuvre." 

" I shall back up Mrs. Sinclair's proposition 
with all my power," said Mrs. Wilding. " The 
Canon will be in residence at Martlebridge for 
the next month, and I would much rather be 
learning cookery under the Marchesa than stay- 
ing with my brother-in-law at Ealing." 

" You'll have to do it, Marchesa," said Van 
der Roet ; " when a new idea catches on like this, 
there's no resisting it." 

" Well, I consent on one condition — that my 
rule shall be absolute," said the Marchesa, " and 


I begin my career as an autocrat by giving Mrs. 
Fothergill a list of the educational machinery I 
shall want, and commanding her to have them all 
ready by Tuesday morning, the day on which I 
declare the school open." 

A chorus of applause went up as soon as 
the Marchesa ceased speaking. 

" Everything shall be ready," said Mrs. Fother- 
gill, radiant with delight that her offer had been 
accepted, " and I will put in a full staff of 
servants selected from our three other establish- 

" Would it not be as well to send the cook home 
for a holiday ? " said the Colonel. " It might be 
safer, and lead to less broth being spoilt." 

" It seems," said Sir John, " that we shall be ten 
in number, and I would therefore propose that, 
after an illustrious precedent, we limit our opera- 
tions to ten days. Then if we each produce one 
culinary poem a day we shall, at the end of our 
time, have provided the world with a hundred 
new reasons for enjoying life— supposing, of 
course, that we have no failures. I propose, 
therefore, that our society be called the ' New 
Decameron.' " 

*' Most appropriate," said Miss Macdonnell, 
" especially as it owes its origin to an outbreak of 
plague — the plague in the kitchen." 


On the Tuesday morning the Marchesa travelled 
down to the " Laurestinas," where she found that 
Mrs. Fothergill had been as good as her word. 
Everything was in perfect order. The Marchesa 
had notified to her pupils that they must report 
themselves that same evening at dinner, and she 
took down with her her maid, one of those 
marvellous Italian servants who combine fidelity 
with efficiency in a degree strange to the denizens 
of more progressive lands. Now, with Ange- 
lina's assistance, she proposed to set before the 
company their first dinner all' Italiana, and the 
last they would taste without having participated 
in the preparation. The real work was to begin 
the following morning. 

The dinner was both a revelation and a sur- 
prise to the majority of the company. All were 
well travelled, and all had eaten of the mongrel 
French dishes given at the "Grand" hotels of 
the principal Italian cities, and some of them, 
in search of adventures, had dined at London 
restaurants with Italian names over the doors, 


where — with certain honourable exceptions — the 
cookery was French, and not of the best, certain 
Italian plats being included in the carte for a 
regular clientele, dishes which would always be 
passed over by the English investigator, because 
he now read, or tried to read, their names for the 
first time. Few of the Marchesa's pupils had ever 
wandered away from the arid table a"hdte in Milan, 
or Florence, or Rome, in search of the risto- 
rante at which the better class of townsfolk were 
wont to take their colazione. Indeed, whenever 
an Englishman does break fresh ground in this 
direction, he rarely finds sufficient presence of 
mind to controvert the suggestions of the smiling 
minister who, having spotted his Inglese, at once 
marks down an omelette aux fines herbes and a 
biftek aux pommes as the only food such a creature 
can consume. Thus the culinary experiences of 
Englishmen in Italy have led to the perpetuation 
of the legend that the traveller can indeed find 
decent food in the large towns, "because the 
cooking there is all French, you know," but that, 
if he should deviate from the beaten track, un- 
utterable horrors, swimming in oil and reeking 
with garlic, would be his portion. Oil and garlic 
are in popular English belief the inseparable 
accidents of Italian cookery, which is supposed to 
gather its solitary claim to individuality from the 


never-failing presence of these admirable, but 
easily abused, gifts of Nature. 

" You have given us a delicious dinner, 
Marchesa," said Mrs. Wilding as the coffee 
appeared. "You mustn't think me captious 
in my remarks — indeed it would be most un- 
gracious to look a gift-dinner in the — What 
are you laughing at, Sir John? I suppose I've 
done something awful with my metaphors — 
mixed them up somehow." 

" Everything Mrs. Wilding mixes will be mixed 
admirably, as admirably, say, as that sauce which 
was served with the Manzo alia Certosina," Sir 
John replied. 

" That is said in your best style, Sir John," 
replied Mrs. Wilding ; "but what I was going to 
remark was, that I, as a poor parson's wife, shall 
ask for some instruction in inexpensive cooking 
before we separate. The dinner we have just 
eaten is surely only within the reach of rich 

" I wish some of the rich people I dine with 
could manage now and then to reach a dinner as 
good," said the Colonel. 

" I believe it is a generally received maxim, 
that if you want a truth to be accepted you must 
repeat the same in season and out, whenever you 
have the opportunity," said the Marchesa. " The 


particular truth I have now in mind is the fact 
that Italian cookery is the cookery of a poor 
nation, of people who have scant means where- 
with to purchase the very inferior materials they 
must needs work with ; and that they produce 
palatable food at all is, I maintain, a proof that 
they bring high intelligence to the task. Italian 
culinary methods have been developed in the 
struggle when the cook, working with an allow- 
ance upon which an English cook would resign 
at once, has succeeded by careful manipulation 
and the study of flavouring in turning out excel- 
lent dishes made of fish and meat confessedly 
inferior. Now, if we loosen the purse-strings a 
little, and use the best English materials, I affirm 
that we shall achieve a result excellent enough to 
prove that Italian cookery is worthy to take its 
stand beside its great French rival. I am glad 
Mrs. Wilding has given me an opportunity to 
impress upon you all that its main characteristics 
are simplicity and cheapness, and I can assure 
her that, even if she should reproduce the most 
costly dishes of our course, she will not find any 
serious increase in her weekly bills. When I 
use the word simplicity, I allude, of course, to 
everyday cooking. Dishes of luxury in any 
school require elaboration, care, and watch- 



Menu — Dinner 

Zuppa d'uova alia Toscana. 
Sogliole alia Livornese. 
Manzo alia Certosina. 
Minuta alia Milanese. 
Cavoli fiori ripieni. 
Cappone airosto con insalata. 
Uoya al pomidoro. 

Tuscan egg-soup. 
Sole alia Livornese. 
Fillet of beef, Certosina sauce. 
Chickens' livers alia Milanese. 
Cauliflower with forcemeat. 
Roast capon with salad. 
Spiced custard. 
Eggs and tomatoes. 

1 The recipes for the dishes contained in all these menus will be 
found in the second part of the book. The limits of the'seasons 
have necessarily been ignored. 


Wednesday's luncheon was anticipated with some 
curiosity, or even searchings of heart, as in it 
would appear the first-fruits of the hand of the 
amateur. The Marchesa wisely restricted it to 
two dishes, for the compounding of which she 
requisitioned the services of Lady Considine, 
Mrs. Sinclair, and the Colonel. The others she 
sent to watch Angelina and her circle while they 
were preparing the vegetables and the dinner 
entrees. After the luncheon dishes had been 
discussed, they were both proclaimed admirable. 
It was a true bit of Italian finesse on the part of 
the Marchesa to lay a share of the responsibility 
of the first meal upon the Colonel, who was noto- 
riously the most captious and the hardest to please 
of all the company ; and she did even more than 
make him jointly responsible, for she authorised 
him to see to the production of a special curry of 
his own invention, the recipe for which he always 
carried in his pocket-book, thus letting India share 
with Italy in the honours pi the first luncheon. 
"My congratulations to you on your curry, 


Colonel Trestrail," said Miss Macdonnell. "You 
haven't followed the English fashion of flavour- 
ing a curry by emptying the pepper-pot into the 

"Pepper properly used is the most admirable 
of condiments," the Colonel said. 

"Why this association of the Colonel and 
pepper?" said Van der Roet. "In this society 
we ought to be as nice in our phraseology as in 
our flavourings, and be careful to eschew the in- 
congruous. You are coughing, Mrs. Wilding; 
let me give you some water." 

" I think it must have been one of those rare 
grains of the Colonel's pepper, for you must have 
a little pepper in a curry, mustn't you, Colonel? 
Though, as Miss Macdonnell says, English cooks 
generally overdo it." 

"Vander is in one of his pleasant witty 
moods," said the Colonel, " but I fancy I know as 
much about the use of pepper as he does about 
the use of oil colours ; and now we have got upon 
art criticism, I may remark, my dear Vander, I 
have been reminded that you have been poaching 
on my ground. I saw a landscape of yours the 
other day, which looked as if some of my curry 
powder had got into the sunset. I mean the one 
poor blind old Wilkins bought at your last show." 

"Ah, but that sunset was an inspiration, 


Colonel, and consequently beyond your compre- 

" It is easy to talk of inspiration," said Sir 
John, "and, perhaps, now that we are debating a 
matter of real importance, we might spend our 
time more profitably than in discussing what is 
and what is not a good picture. Since inspiration 
has been brought into our symposium, I venture 
to affirm that the brain which devised and the 
hand which executed the Tenerumi di Vitello we 
have just tasted, were both of them inspired. In 
the construction of this dish there is to be recog- 
nised a breath of the same afflatus which gave us 
the Florentine campanile, and the Medici tombs, 
and the portrait of Monna Lisa. When we 
stand before any one of these masterpieces, we 
realise at a glance how keen must have been 
the primal insight, and how strenuous the effort 
necessary for the evolution of so consummate 
an achievement ; and, with the savour of the 
Tenerumi di Vitello still fresh, I feel that it de- 
serves to be added to the list of Italian capo lavori. 
Now, as I was not fortunate enough to be in- 
cluded in the pupils' class this morning, I must 
beg the next time the dish is presented to us — 
and I imagine all present will hail its renaissance 
with joy — that I may be allowed to lend a hand, 
or even a finger, in its preparation." 


" Veal, with the possible exception of Lombard 
beef, is the best meat we get in Italy," said the 
Marchesa, " so an Italian cook, when he wants to 
produce a meat dish of the highest excellence, 
generally turns to veal as a basis. I must say 
that the breast of veal, which is the part we had 
for lunch to-day, is a somewhat insipid dish when 
cooked English fashion. That we have been able 
to put it before you in more palatable form, and 
to win for it the approval of such a connoisseur as 
Sir John Oglethorpe, is largely owing to the 
judicious use of that Italian terror — more dire to 
many English than paper-money or brigands- 

"The quantity used was infinitesimal," said 
Mrs. Sinclair, " but it seems to have been enough 
to subdue what I once heard Sir John describe 
as the pallid solidity of the innocent calf." 

" I fear the vein of incongruity in our dis- 
course, lately noted by Van der Roet, is not quite 
exhausted," said Sir John. " The Colonel was 
up in arms on account of a too intimate associa- 
tion of his name with pepper, and now Mrs. 
Sinclair has bracketed me with the calf, a most 
useful animal, I grant, but scarcely one I should 
have chosen as a yokefellow ; but this is a digres- 
sion. To return to our veal. I had a notion that 
garlic had something to do with the triumph of 


the Tenerumi, and, this being the case, I think 
it would be well if the Marchesa were to give 
us a dissertation on the use of this invaluable 

"As Mrs. Sinclair says, the admixture of garlic 
in the dish in question was a very small one, and 
English people somehow never seem to realise 
that garlic must always be used sparingly. The 
chief positive idea they have of its characteristics 
is that which they gather from the odour of a 
French or Italian crowd of peasants at a railway 
station. The effect of garlic, eaten in lumps as 
an accompaniment to bread and cheese, is natu- 
rally awful, but garlic used as it should be used 
is the soul, the divine essence, of cookery. The 
palate delights in it without being able to identify 
it, and the surest proof of its charm is manifested 
by the flatness and insipidity which will infallibly 
characterise any dish usually flavoured with it, if 
by chance this dish should be prepared without it. 
The cook who can employ it successfully will be 
found to possess the delicacy of perception, the 
accuracy of judgment, and the dexterity of hand, 
which go to the formation of a great artist. It 
is a primary maxim, and one which cannot be 
repeated too often, that garlic must never be cut 
up and used as part of the material of any dish. 
One small incision should be made in the clove, 


which should be put into the dish during the 
process of cooking, and allowed to remain there 
until the cook's palate gives warning that flavour 
enough has been extracted. Then it must be 
taken out at once. This rule does not apply in 
equal degree to the use of the onion, the large 
mild varieties of which may be cooked and eaten 
in many excellent bourgeois dishes ; but in all fine 
cooking, where the onion flavour is wanted, the 
same treatment which I have prescribed for garlic 
must be followed." 

The Marchesa gave the Colonel and Lady 
Considine a holiday that afternoon, and requested 
Mrs. Gradinger and Van der Roet to attend in 
the kitchen to help with the dinner. In the first 
few days of the session the main portion of the 
work naturally fell upon the Marchesa and Ange- 
lina, and in spite of the inroads made upon their 
time by the necessary directions to the neophytes, 
and of the occasional eccentricities of the neo- 
phytes' energies, the dinners and luncheons were 
all that could be desired. The Colonel was not 
quite satisfied with the flavour of one particular 
soup, and Mrs. Gradinger was of opinion that 
one of the entrees, which she wanted to super- 
intend herself, but which the Marchesa handed 
over to Mrs. Sinclair, had a great deal too much 
butter in its composition. Her conscience re- 


volted at the action of consuming in one dish 
enough butter to solace the breakfast-table of an 
honest working man for two or three days ; but 
the faintness of these criticisms seemed to prove 
that every one was well satisfied with the render- 
ing of the menu of the day. 

Menu — Lunch. 

Tenerumi di Vitello. Breast of veal. 

Piccione alia minuta. Pigeons, braized with liver, &c. 


Menu — Dinner. 

Zuppa alia nazionale. Soup alia nazionale. 

Salmone alia Genovese. Salmon alia Genovese. 

Costolette alia Costanza. Mutton cutlets alia Costanza 

Fritto misto alia Villeroy. Lamb's fry alia Villeroy. 

Lattughe al sugo. Stuffed lettuce. 

Dindo arrosto alia Milanese. Roast turkey alia Milanese. 

Crema montata alle fragole. Strawberry cream. 

. Tartufi alia Dino. Truffles alia Dino. 


" I observe, dear Marchesa," said Mrs. Fother- 
gill at breakfast on Thursday morning, " that we 
still follow the English fashion in our breakfast 
dishes. I have a notion that, in this particular 
especially, we gross English show our inferiority 
to the more spirituelles nations of the Continent, 
and I always feel a new being after the light 
meal of delicious coffee and crisp bread and deli- 
cate butter the first morning I awake in dear 

" I wonder how it happens, then, that two goes 
of fish, a plateful of omelette, and a round and 
a half of toast and marmalade are necessary to 
repair the waste of tissue in dear England ? " Van 
der Roet whispered to Miss Macdonnell. 

"It must be the gross air of England or the 
gross nature of the " 

The rest of Miss Macdonnell's remark was lost, 
as the Marchesa cried out in answer to Mrs. 
Fothergill, " But why should we have anything 
but English breakfast dishes in England ? The 

defects of English cookery are manifest enough, 



but breakfast fare is not amongst them. In these 
England stands supreme ; there is nothing to 
compare with them, and they possess the crown- 
ing merit of being entirely compatible with Eng- 
lish life. I cannot say whether it may be the 
effect of the crossing, or of the climate on this 
side, or that the air of England is charged with 
some subtle stimulating quality, given off in the 
rush and strain of strenuous national life, but the 
fact remains that as soon as I find myself across 
the Channel I want an English breakfast. It 
seems that I am more English than certain of the 
English themselves, and I am sorry that Mrs. 
Fothergill has been deprived of her French roll 
and butter. I will see that you have it to-morrow, 
Mrs. Fothergill, and to make the illusion com- 
plete, I will order it to be sent to your room." 

"Oh no, Marchesa, that would be giving too 
much trouble, and I am sure you want all the help 
in the house to carry out the service as exquisitely 
as you do," said Mrs. Fothergill hurriedly, and 
blushing as well as her artistic complexion would 

"I fancy," said Mrs. Sinclair, "that foreigners 
are taking to English breakfasts as well as Eng- 
lish clothes. I noticed when I was last in Milan 
that almost every German or Italian ate his two 
boiled eggs for breakfast, the sign whereby 


the Englishman used to be marked for a cer- 

" The German would probably call for boiled 
eggs when abroad on account of the impossi- 
bility of getting such things in his own country. 
No matter how often you send to the kitchen 
for properly boiled eggs in Germany, the result 
is always the same — cold slush," said Mrs. Wild- 
ing ; "and I regret to find that the same plague 
is creeping into the English hotels which are 
served by German waiters." 

" That is quite true," said the Marchesa ; " but 
in England we have no time to concern our- 
-selves with mere boiled eggs, delicious as they 
are. The roll of delicacies is long enough, or 
even too long without them. When I am in 4 
England, I always lament that we have only 
seven days a week and one breakfast a day, and 
when I am in Italy I declare that the reason 
why the English have overrun the world is 
because they eat such mighty breakfasts.. Con- 
sidering how good the dishes are, I wonder the 
breakfasts are not mightier than they are." 

"It always strikes me that our national bar- 
renness of ideas appears as plainly in our break- 
fasts as anywhere," said Mrs. Gradinger. " There 
is a monotony about them which " 

" Monotony!" interrupted the Colonel. " Why, 


I could dish you up a fresh breakfast every day 
for a month. Your conservative tendencies must 
be very strong, Mrs. Gradinger, if they lead 
you to this conclusion." 

"Conservative! On the contrary, I — that is, 
my husband — always votes for Progressive candi- 
dates at every election," said Mrs. Gradinger, 
dropping into her platform intonation, at the 
sound of which consternation arose in every 
breast. " I have, moreover, a theory that we 
might reform our diet radically, as well as all 
other institutions ; but before I expound this, I 
should like to say a few words on the waste of 
wholesome food which goes on. For instance, 
I went for a walk in the woods yesterday after- 
noon, where I came upon a vast quantity of 
fungi which our ignorant middle classes would 
pronounce to be poisonous, but which I — in 
common with every child of the intelligent work- 
ing-man educated in a board school where 
botany is properly taught — knew to be good for 

" Excuse me one moment," said Sir John, 
" but do they really use board-school children* as 
tests to see whether toadstools are poisonous or 

" I do not think anything I said justified such 
an inference," said Mrs. Gradinger in the same 


solemn drawl ; " but I may remark that the 
children are taught from illustrated manuals 
accurately drawn and coloured. Well, to come 
back to the fungi, I took the trouble to measure 
the plot on which they were growing, and found 
it just ten yards square. The average weight 
of edible fungus per square yard was just an 
ounce, or a hundred and twelve pounds per acre. 
Now, there must be at least twenty millions of 
acres in the United Kingdom capable of pro- 
ducing these fungi without causing the smallest 
damage to any other crop, wherefore it seems 
that, owing to our lack of instruction, we are 
wasting some million tons of good food per 
annum ; and I may remark that this calcula- 
tion pre-supposes, that each fungus springs only 
once in the ^season ; but I have reason to be- 
lieve that certain varieties would give five or 
six gatherings between May and October, so the 
weight produced would be enormously greater 
than the quantity I have named." 

Here Mrs. Gradinger paused to finish her 
coffee, which was getting cold, and before she 
could resume, Sir John had taken up the parole. 
" I think the smaller weight will suffice for the 
present, until the taste for strange fungi has 
developed, or the pressure of population in- 
creased. And before stimulating a vastly in- 


creased supply, it will be necessary to extirpate 
the belief that all fungi, except the familiar 
mushroom, are poisonous, and perhaps to appoint 
an army of inspectors to see that only the right 
sort are brought to market." 

"Yes, and that will give pleasant and con- 
genial employment to those youths of the work- 
ing-classes who are ambitious of a higher career 
than that of their fathers," said Lady Considine, 
"and the ratepayers will rejoice, no doubt, that 
they are participating in the general elevation 
of the masses." 

" Perhaps Mrs. Gradinger will gather a few 
of her less deadly fungi, and cook them and eat 
them herself, pour encourager les autres" said Miss 
Macdonnell. " Then, if she doesn't die in agonies, 
we may all forswear beef and live on toadstools." 

"I certainly will," said Mrs. Gradinger; "and 
before we rise from table I should like '' 

" I fear we must hear your remarks at dinner, 
Mrs. Gradinger," said the Marchesa. "Time is 
getting on, and some of the dishes to-day are 
rather elaborate, so now to the kitchen." 

Menu — Lunch. 

Risotto alia Genovese. Savoury rice. 

Polio alia Villereccia. Chicken alia Villereccia. 

Lingue di Castrato alia cuci- " Sheeps' tongues alia cuciniera. 




Menu — Dinner. 

Zuppa alia Veneziana. 
Sogliole alia giardiniera. 
Timballo alia Romana. 
Petto di Castrato alia salsa di 

Verdure miste. 
Crema rappresa. 
Ostriche alia Veneziana. 

Venetian soup. 
Sole with vegetables. 
Roman pie- 
Breast of mutton with butter 

Mixed vegetables. 
Coffee cream. 
Oyster savoury. 


The Colonel was certainly the most severely 
critical member of the company. Up to the pre- 
sent juncture he had been sparing of censure, and 
sparing of praise likewise, but on this day, after 
lunch, he broke forth into loud praise of the dish 
of beef which appeared in the menu. After spe- 
cially commending this dish he went on — 

" It seems to me that the dinner of yesterday 
and to-day's lunch bear the cachet of a fresh and 
admirable school of cookery. In saying this I 
don't wish to disparage the traditions which have 
governed the preparation of the delicious dishes 
put before us up to that date, which I have re- 
ferred to as the parting of the ways, the date when 
the palate of the expert might detect a new hand 
upon the keys, a phrase once employed, I believe, 
with regard to some man who wrote poetry. To 
meet an old friend, or a thoroughly tested dish, is 
always pleasant, but old friends die or fall out, and 
old favourite dishes may come to pall at last ; and 
for this reason I hold that the day which brings us 


a new friend or a new dish ought to be marked 
with white chalk." 

"And I think some wise man once remarked," 
said Sir John, "that the discovery of a dish is 
vastly more important than the discovery of a 
star, for we have already as many stars as we 
can possibly require, but we can never have too 
many dishes." 

" I was wondering whether any one would 
detect the variations I made yesterday, but I 
need not have wondered, with such an expert at 
table as Colonel Trestrail," said the Marchesa 
with a laugh. " Well, the Colonel has found 
me out ; but from the tone of his remarks I 
think I may hope for his approval. At any 
rate, I'm sure he won't move a vote of cen- 


"If he does, we'll pack him off to town, and 
sentence him to dine at his club every day for a 
month," said Lady Considine. 

"What crime has this particular club com- 
mitted ? " said Mrs. Sinclair in a whisper. 

"Vote of censure! Certainly not," said the 
Colonel, with an angry ring in his voice. Mrs. 
Sinclair did not love him, and had calculated 
accurately the carrying power of her whisper. 
" That would be the basest ingratitude. I must, 
however, plead guilty to an attack of curiosity, 


and therefore I beg you, Marchesa, to let us into 
the secret of your latest inspiration." 

" Its origin was commonplace enough," said 
the Marchesa, "but in a way interesting. Once 
upon a time — more years ago than I care to 
remember — I was strolling about the Piazza 
Navona in Rome, and amusing myself by going 
from one barrow to another, and turning over 
the heaps of rubbish with which they were 
stocked. All the while I was innocently plagiar- 
ising that fateful walk of Browning's round the 
Riccardi Palace in Florence, the day when he 
bought for a lira the Romano, homocidiorum. 
The world knows what was the outcome of 
Browning's purchase, but it will probably never 
fathom the full effect of mine. How do his 

lines run ? 

I picked the book from. Five compeers in flank 
Stood left and right of it as tempting more — 
A dog's-eared Spicilegium, the fond tale 
O' the frail one of the Flower, by young Dumas, 
Vulgarised Horace for the use of schools, 
The Life, Death, Miracles of Saint Somebody, 
Saint Somebody Else, his Miracles, Death and Life.' 

" Well, the choice which lay before me on one 
particular barrow was fully as wide, or perhaps 
wider than that which met the poet's eye, but 
after I had espied a little yellow paper-covered 


book with the title La Cucina Partenopea, owero 
il Paradiso dei gastronomi, I looked no farther. 
What infinite possibilities of pleasure might lie 
hidden under such a name. I secured it, together 
with the Story of Barlaam and Josaphat, for 
thirty-five centesimi, and handed over the coins 
to the hungry-eyed old man in charge, who re- 
gretted, I am sure, when he saw the eager look 
upon my face, that he had not marked the books 
a lira at least. I should now be a rich woman if 
I had spent all the money I have spent as profit- 
ably as those seven soldi. Besides being a master 
in the art of cookery, the author was a moral philo- 
sopher as well ; and he addresses his reader in 
prefatory words which bespeak a profound know- 
ledge of life. He writes : ' Though the time of man 
here on earth is passed in a never-ending turmoil, 
which must make him often curse the moment 
when he opened his eyes on such a world ; though 
life itself must often become irksome or even 
intolerable, nevertheless, by God's blessing, one 
supreme consolation remains for this wretched 
body of ours. I allude to that moment when, the 
forces being spent and the stomach craving sup- 
port, the wearied mortal sits down to face a good 
dinner. Here is to be found an effectual balm 
for the ills of life : something to drown all re- 
membrance of our ill-humours, the worries of 


business, or even family quarrels. In sooth, it is 
only at table that a man may bid. the devil fly 
away with Solomon and all his wisdom, and give 
himself up to an earthly delight, which is a 
pleasure and a profit at the same time.'" 

" The circumstances under which this precious 
book Was found seem to suggest a culinary poem 
on the model of the ' Ring and the Book,' " said 
Mrs. Sinclair, "or we might deal with the story 
in practical shape by letting every one of us 
prepare the same dish. I fancy the individual 
renderings of the same recipe would vary quite 
as widely as the versions of the unsavoury story 
set forth in Mr. Browning's little poem." 

" I think we had better have a supplementary 
day for a trial of the sort Mrs. Sinclair sug- 
gests," said Miss Macdonnell. " I speak with the 
memory of a preparation of liver I tasted yester- 
day in the kitchen — one of the dishes which did 
not appear at dinner." 

"That is rather hard on the Colonel," said 
Van der Roet ; " he did his best, and now, see how 
hard he is trying to look as if he didn't know 
what you are alluding to ! " 

" I never in all my life—" the Colonel began ; 
but the Marchesa, fearing a storm, interfered. 
" I have a lot more to tell you about my little 
Neapolitan book," she went on, "and I will begin 


by saying that, for the future, we cannot do better 
than make free use of it. The author opens with 
an announcement that he means to give exact 
quantities for every dish, and then, like a true 
Neapolitan, lets quantities go entirely, and adopts 
the rule-of-thumb system. And I must say I 
always find the question of quantities a difficult 
one. Some books give exact measures, each 
dish being reckoned enough for four persons, 
with instructions to increase the measures in 
proportion to the additional number of diners ; 
but here a rigid rule is impossible, for a dish 
which is to serve by itself, as a supper or a lunch 
must necessarily be bigger than one which merely 
fills one place in a dinner menu. Quantities can 
be given approximately in many cases, but 
flavouring must always be a question of in- 
dividual taste. Latitude must be allowed, for 
all cooks who can turn out distinguished work 
will be found to be endowed with imagination, 
and these, being artists, will never consent to 
follow a rigid rule of quantity. To put it briefly, 
cooks who need to be told everything, will never 
cook properly, even if they be told more than 
everything. And after all, no one takes seriously 
the quantities given by the chef of a millionaire 
or a prince ; witness the cook of the Prince de 
Soubise, who demanded fifty hams for the sauces 



and garnitures of a single supper, and when the 
Prince protested that there could not possibly be 
found space for them all on the table, offered to 
put them all into a glass bottle no bigger than his 
thumb. Some of Francatelli's quantities are also 
prodigious, as, for instance, when to make a simple 
glaze he calls for three pounds of gravy beef, the 
best part of a ham, a knuckle of veal, an old hen, 
and two partridges." 

Menu — Lunch. 

Maccheroni al sugillo. 

Manzo in insalata. 

Lingue di vitello all' Italiana. 

Macaroni with sausage and 

Beef, pressed and marinated. 
Calves' tongues. 

Menu— Dinner. 

Zuppa alia Modanese. 
Merluzzo in salamoia. 
Pollastro in istufa di pomi- 

doro. v 

Porcelletto farcito alia Corra- 

Insalata alia Navarino. 
Bodino di semolino. 
Frittura di cocozze. 

Modenese soup. 
Cod with sauce piquante. 
Stewed chicken with toma- 
Stuffed sucking pig. 

Navarino salad. 
Semolina pudding. 
Fried cucumber. 


The following day was very warm, and some 
half-dozen of the party wandered into the garden 
after lunch and took their coffee under a big 
chestnut tree on the lawn. " And this is the 
26th of June," said Lady Considine. " Last 
year, on this very day, I started for Hombourg. 
I can't say I feel like starjting for Hombourg, or 
any other place, just at present." 

" But why should any one of us want to go to 
Hombourg?" said Sir John. "Nobody can be 
afraid of gout with the admirable diet we enjoy 

" I beg you to speak for yourself, Sir John," 
said Lady Considine. " I have never yet gone 
to Hombourg on account of gout." 

" Of course not, my dear friend, of course not ; 
there are so many reasons for going to Hom- 
bourg. There's the early rising, and the band, 
and the new people one may meet there, and the 
change of diet — especially the change of diet. 
But, you see, we have found our change of diet 

within an hour of London, so why — as I before 



remarked — should we want to rush off to Hom- 

" I am a firm believer in that change of diet," 
said Mrs. Wilding, " though in the most respect- 
able circles the true-bred Briton still talks about 
foreign messes, and affirms that anything else 
than plain British fare ruins the digestion. I 
must say my own digestion is none the worse 
for the holiday I am having from the prepara- 
tions of my own 'treasure.' I think we all look 
remarkably well ; and we don't quarrel or snap 
at each other, and it would be hard to find a 
better proof of wholesome diet than that." 

" But I fancied Mrs. Gradinger looked a little 
out of sorts this morning, and I'm sure she was 
more than a. little out of temper when I asked 
her how soon we were to taste her dish of toad- 
stools," said Miss Macdonnell. 

" I expect she had been making a trial of the 
British fungi in her bedroom," said Van der Roet ; 
"and then, you see, our conversation isn't quite 
'high toned' enough for her taste. We aren't 
sufficiently awake to the claims of the masses. 
Can any one explain to me why the people who 
are so full of mercy for the mass, are so merciless 
to the unit ? " 

" That is her system of proselytising," said the 
Colonel, " and if she is content with outward con- 


version, it isn't a bad one. I often feel inclined 
to agree to any proposition she likes to put for- 
ward, and I would, if I could stop her talking 
by my submission." 

" You wouldn't do that,' Colonel, even in your 
suavest mood," said Van der Roet ; "but I hope 
somebody will succeed in checking her flow of 
discourse before long. I'm getting worn to a 
shadow by the grind of that awful voice." 

" I thought your clothes were getting a bit 
loose," said the Colonel, " but I put that pheno- 
menon down to another reason. In spite of Mrs. 
Wilding's praise of our present style of cooking, 
I don't believe our friend Vander finds it sub- 
stantial enough to sustain his manly bulk, and 
I'll tell you the grounds of my belief. A few 
mornings ago, when I was shaving, I saw the 
butcher bring into the house a splendid sirloin, 
and as no sirloin has appeared at table, I venture 
to infer that this joint was a private affair of 
Vander's, and that he, as well as Mrs. Gradinger, 
has been going in for bedroom cookery. Here 
comes the Marchesa ; we'll ask her to solve the 

" I can account for the missing sirloin," said 
the Marchesa. " The Colonel is wrong for once. 
It went duly into the kitchen, and not to Mr. 
Van der Roet's bedroom ; but I must begin with 


a slight explanation, or rather apology. Next to 
trial by jury, and the reverence paid to rank, and 
the horror of all things which, as poor Corney 
Grain used to say, ' are not nice,' I reckon the 
Sunday sirloin, cooked and served, one and in- 
divisible, as the typical fetish of the great English 
middle class. With this fact before my eyes, I 
can assure you I did not lightly lay a hand on its 
integrity. My friends, you have eaten that sir- 
loin without knowing it. You may remember 
that yesterday after lunch the Colonel was loud 
in praise of a dish of beef. Well, that beef was 
a portion of the same, and not the best portion. 
The Manzo in insalata, which pleased the Colonel's 
palate, was that thin piece at the lower end, the 
chief function of which, when the sirloin is cooked 
whole, seems to lie in keeping the joint steady on 
the dish while paterfamilias carves it. It is never 
eaten in the dining-room hot, because every one 
justly prefers and goes for the under cut ; neither 
does it find favour at lunch next day, for the 
reason that, as cold beef, the upper cut is un- 
approachable. I have never heard that the 
kitchen hankers after it inordinately ; indeed, its 
ultimate destination is one of the unexplained 
mysteries of housekeeping. I hold that never, 
under any circumstances, should it be cooked 
with the sirloin, but always cut off and marinated 


and braized as we had it yesterday. Thus yoi 
get two hot dishes ; our particular sirloin has 
given us three. The parts of this joint vary 
greatly in flavour, and in texture as well, anc 
by accentuating this variation by treatment ir 
the kitchen, you escape that monotony which is 
prone to pervade the table so long as the sirloir 
remains in the house. Mrs. Sinclair is sufficient!) 
experienced as a housekeeper to know that the 
dish of fillets we had for dinner last night wa: 
not made from the under cut of one sirloin. Ii 
was by borrowing a little from the upper par 
that I managed to fill the dish, and I'm sun 
that any one who may have got one of the upper 
cut fillets had no cause to grumble. The FiletU 
di Bue, which we had for lunch to-day was th< 
residue of the upper cut, and, admirable as is ; 
slice of cold beef taken from this part of th< 
joint I think it is an excellent variation to mak< 
a hot dish of it sometimes. On the score o 
economy, I am sure that a sirloin treated in thi 
fashion goes a long way further." 

" The Marchesa demolishes one after anothe 
of our venerable institutions with so charming ; 
despatch that we can scarcely grieve for them, 
said Sir John. " I am not philosopher enoug] 
to divine what change may come over the Britisi 
character when every man sits down every da 


to a perfectly cooked dinner. It is sometimes 
said that our barbarian forefathers left their 
northern solitudes because they hankered after 
the wine and delicate meats of the south, and 
perhaps the modern Briton may have been led 
to overrun the world by the hope of finding a 
greater variety of diet than he gets at home. It 
may mean, Marchesa, that this movement of 
yours for the suppression of English plain cook- 
ing will mark the close of our national expan- 

" My dear Sir John, ycu may rest assured that 
your national expansion, as well as your national 
cookery, will continue in spite of anything we 
may accomplish here, and I say good luck to 
them both. When have I ever denied the 
merits of English cookery ? " said the Marchesa. 
" Many of its dishes are unsurpassed. These 
islands produce materials so fine, that no art or 
elaboration can improve them. They are best 
when they are cooked quite plainly, and this is 
the reason why simplicity is the key-note of 
English cookery. A fine joint of mutton roasted 
to a turn, a plain fried sole with anchovy butter, 
a broiled chop or steak or kidney, fowls or game 
cooked English fashion, potatoes baked in their 
skins and eaten with butter and sak, a rasher of 
Wiltshire bacon and a new-laid egg, where will 


you beat these ? I will go so far as to say no 
country can produce a bourgeois dish which can 
be compared with steak and kidney pudding. 
But the point I want to press home is that 
Italian cookery comes to the aid of those who 
cannot well afford to buy those prime qualities of 
meat and fish which allow of this perfectly plain 
treatment. It is, as I have already said, the 
cookery of a nation short of cash and unblessed 
with such excellent meat and fish and vegetables 
as you lucky islanders enjoy. But it is rich in 
clever devices of flavouring, and in combinations, 
and I am sure that by its help English people 
of moderate means may fare better and spend 
less than they spend now — if only they will take 
a little trouble." 

Menu — Lunch. 

Gnocchi alia Romana. Semolina with parmesan. 

Filetto di Bue ai pistacchi. Fillet of beef with pistachios. 

Bodini marinati. Marinated rissoles. 

Menu — Dinner. 

Zuppa Crotopb. Croute au pot soup. 

Sogliole alia Veneziana. Fillets of sole. 

Ateletti alia Sarda. Atelets of ox-palates, &c. 

Costolette di Montone alia Mutton cutlets. 


Polio alia Fiorentina. Fowl with macaroni. 

Crema tartara alia Caramella. Caramel cream. 

Uova rimescolati ai tartufi. Eggs with truffles. 


The following morning, at breakfast, a servant 
announced that Sir John Oglethorpe was taking 
his breakfast in his room, and that there was no 
need to keep anything in reserve for him. It 
was stated, however, that Sir John was in no 
way indisposed, and that he would join the party 
at lunch. 

He seated himself in his usual place, placid 
and fresh as ever ; but, unharmed as he was 
physically, it was evident to all the company 
that he was suffering from some mental dis- 
composure. Miss Macdonnell, with a frank 
curiosity which might have been trying in any 
one else, asked him point-blank the reason of his 
absence from the meal for which, in spite of his 
partiality for French cookery, he had a true 
Englishman's devotion. 

" I feel I owe the company some apology for 
my apparent churlishness," he said ; " but the 
fact is, that I have received some very harrowing, 
but at the same time very interesting, news this 
morning. I think I told you the other day how 


the vacancy in my kitchen has led up to a very 
real tragedy, and that the abhorred Fury was 
already hovering terribly near the head of poor 
Narcisse. Well, I have just received from a 
friend in Paris journals containing a full account 
of the trial of Narcisse and of his fair accomplice. 
The worst has come to pass, and Narcisse has 
been doomed to sneeze into the basket like a 
mere aristocrat or politician during the Terror. 
I was greatly upset by this news, but I was 
interested, and in a measure consoled, to find an 
enclosure amongst the other papers, an envelope 
addressed to me in the handwriting of the con- 
demned man. This voix d? outre tombe, I rejoice 
to say, confides to me the secret of that in- 
comparable sauce of his, a secret which I feared 
might be buried with Narcisse in the 'prison 

The Marchesa sighed as she listened. The 
recipe of the sauce was safe indeed, but she 
knew by experience how wide might be the gulf 
between the actual work of an artist and the 
product of another hand guided by his counsels, 
let the hand be ever so dexterous, and the 
counsels ever so clear. " Will it be too much," 
she said, " to ask you to give us the details of 
this painful tragedy ? " 

"It will not," Sir John replied reflectively. 


" The last words of many a so-called genius have 
been enshrined in literature : probably no one will 
ever know the parting objurgation of Narcisse. 
I will endeavour, however, to give you some 
notion as to what occurred, from the budget I 
have just read. I fear the tragedy was a squalid 
one. Madame, the victim, was elderly, unattrac- 
tive in person, exacting in temper, and the owner 
of considerable wealth — at least, this is what came 
out at the trial. It was one of those tangles in 
which a fatal denouement is inevitable ; and, if 
this had not come through Mademoiselle Sidonie, 
it would have come through somebody else. 
The lovers plotted to remove Madame by first 
drugging her, then breaking her skull with the 
wood chopper, and then pitching her downstairs 
so as to produce the impression that she had met 
her death in this fashion. . But either the arm of 
Mademoiselle* Sidonie — who was told off to do 
the hammering — was unskilled in such work, or 
the opiate was too weak, for the victim began to 
shriek before she gave up the ghost. Detection 
seemed imminent, so Narcisse, in whom the 
quality of discretion was evidently .predominant, 
bolted at once and got out of the country. But 
the facts were absolutely clear. The victim lived 
long enough to depose that Mademoiselle Sid- 
onie attacked her with the wood chopper, while 


Narcisse watched the door. The advocate of 
Narcisse did his work like a man. He shed the 
regulation measure of tears ; he drew graphic 
pictures of the innocent youth of Narcisse, of his 
rise to eminence, and of his filial piety as evi- 
denced by the frequent 'despatch of money and 
comestibles to his venerable mother, who was still 
living near Bourges. Once a year, too, this in- 
comparable artist found time to renew his youth 
by a sojourn in the simple cottage which saw his 
birth, and by embracing the giver of his life. 
Was it possible that a man who treated one 
woman with such devotion and reverence could 
take the life of another? He adduced various 
and picturesque reasons to show that such an 
event must be impossible, but the jury took the 
opposite view. Some one had to be guillotined, 
and the intelligent jury decided that Paris could 
spare Narcisse better than it could spare Made- 
moiselle Sidonie. I fear the fact that he had 
deigned to sell his services to a brutal islander 
may have helped them to come to this conclusion, 
but there were other and more weighty reasons. 
Of the supreme excellence of Narcisse as an 
artist the jury knew nothing, so they let him go 
hang — or worse — but of Mademoiselle Sidonie 
they knew a good deal, and their knowledge, I 
believe, is shared by certain English visitors to 


Paris. She is one of the attractions of the 
Fantasies d'Arcadie, and her latest song, Bon- 
jour Coco, is sung and whistled in every capital 
of Europe ; so the jury, thrusting aside as mere 
pedantry the evidence of facts, set to work to find 
some verdict which would not eclipse the gaiety 
of La Ville Lumtire by cutting short the career 
of Mademoiselle Sidonie. The art of the chef 
appealed to only a few, and he dies a mute, but 
by no means inglorious martyr : the art of the 
chanteuse appeals to the million, the voice of the 
many carries the day, and Narcisse must die." 

" It is a revolting story," said Mrs. Gradinger, 
"and one possible only in a corrupted and cor- 
rupting society. It is wonderful, as Sir John 
remarks, how the conquering streams of tendency 
manifest themselves even in an affair like this. 
Ours is a democratic age, and the wants and 
desires of the many, who find delight in this 
woman's singing, override the whims of the 
pampered few, the employers of such costly 
luxuries as men cooks." 

"You see you are a mere worm, Sir John," 
laughed Miss Macdonnell, "and you had better 
lay out your length to be trampled on." 

" Yes, I have long foreseen our fate, we who 
happen to possess what our poor brother hankers 
after. Well, perhaps I may take up the worm's 


r61e at once and ' turn ' — that is, burn the recipe 
of Narcisse." 

" O Sir John, Sir John," cried Mrs. Sinclair, 
"any such burning would remind me irresistibly 
of Mr. Mantalini's attempts at suicide. There 
would be an accurate copy in your pocket-book, 
and besides this you would probably have learnt 
off the recipe by heart." 

"Yes, we know our Sir John better than that, 
don't we?" said the Marchesa; "but, joking 
apart, Sir John, you might let me have the recipe 
at once. It would go admirably with one of our 
lunch dishes for to-morrow." 

But on the subject of the sauce, Sir John — like 
the younger Mr. Small weed on the subject of 
gravy — was adamant. The wound caused by the 
loss of Narcisse was, he declared, yet too recent : 
the very odour of the sauce would provoke a 
thousand agonising regrets. And then the hideous 
injustice of it all : Narcisse the artist, compara- 
tively innocent (for to artists' a certain latitude 
must be allowed), to moulder in quicklime, and 
this greedy, sordid murderess to go on ogling 
and posturing with superadded popularity before 
an idiot crowd unable to distinguish a Remoulade 
from a Ravigolte ! " No, my dear Marchesa," 
he said, "the secret of Narcisse must be kept a 
little longer, for.^to tell the truth, I have an 


idea. I remember that ere this fortunes have 
been made out of sauces, and if this sauce be 
properly handled and put before the public, it 
may counteract my falling, or rather disappear- 
ing rents. If only I could hit upon a fetching 
name, and find twenty thousand pounds to 
spend in advertising, I might be able once 
more to live on my acres." 

"Oh, surely we shall be able to find you a 
name between us," said Mrs. Wilding ; " money, 
and things of that sort are to be procured in 
the city, I believe ; and I daresay Mr. Van der 
Roet will design a pretty label for the sauce 

Menu — Lunch. 

Polio all' oliva. Fowl with olives. 

Scaloppine di riso. Veal cutlets with rice. 

Sedani alia parmigiana. Stewed celery. 

Menu — Dinner. 

Zuppa primaverile. Spring soup. 

Sote di Salmone ai funghi. Salmon with mushrooms. 

Tenerumi d'Agnello alia vene- Breast of lamb alia Veneziana. 


Testa di Vitello alia sorren- Calf's head alia Sorrentina. 


Fagiano alia perigb. Pheasant with truffles. 

Torta alia cremonese. Cremona tart. 

Uova alia fiorentina. Egg savoury. 


" It seems invidious to give special praise where 
everything is so good," said Mrs. Sinclair next day 
at lunch, " but I must say a word about that clear 
soup we had at dinner last night. I have never 
ceased to regret that my regard for manners for- 
bade me ask for a second helping." 

" See what it is to have no manners," said 
Van der Roet. " I plunged boldly for another 
portion of that admirable preparation of calfs 
head at dinner. If I hadn't, I should have re- 
gretted it for ever after. Now, I'm sure you are 
just as curious about the construction of these 
masterpieces as I am, Mrs. Sinclair, so we'll beg 
the Marchesa to let us into the secret." 

"Mrs. Sinclair herself had a hand in the calfs- 
head dish, ' Testa di Vitello alia sorrentina,' 
so perhaps I may hand over that part of the 
question to her. I am very proud that one of 
my pupils should have won praise from such a 
distinguished expert as Mr. Van der Roet, and I 
leave her to expound the mystery of its charm. 

I think I may without presumption claim the 



clear soup as a triumph, and it is a discovery 
of my own. The same calfs head which Mrs. 
Sinclair has treated with such consummate skill, 
served also as the foundation for the stock of the 
clear soup. This stock certainly derived its dis- 
tinction from the addition of the liquor in which 
the head was boiled. A good consommd can no 
doubt be made with stock-meat alone, but the 
best soup thus made will be inferior to that we 
had for dinner last night. Without the calfs 
head you will never get such softness, combined 
with full roundness on the tongue, and the great 
merit of calfs head is that it lets you attain this 
excellence without any sacrifice of transparency." 

" I have marvelled often at the clearness of 
your soups, Marchesa," said the Colonel. " What 
clearing do you use to make them look like pale 
sherry ? '' 

" No one has any claim to be called a cook 
who cannot make soup without artificial clear- 
ing," said the Marchesa. " Like the poet, the 
consontmd is born, not made. It must be clear 
from the beginning, an achievement which needs 
care and trouble like every other artistic effort, 
but one nevertheless well within the reach of any 
student who means to succeed. To clear a soup 
by the ordinary medium of white of egg or minced 
beef is to destroy all flavour and individuality. 


If thefstock be kept from boiling until it has been 
strained, it will develop into a perfectly clear soup 
under the hands of a careful and intelligent cook. 
The fleeting delicate aroma which, as every gour- 
met will admit, gives such grateful aid to the 
palate, is the breath of garden herbs and of herbs 
alone, and here I have a charge to bring against 
contemporary cookery. I mean the neglect of 
natural in favour of manufactured flavourings. 
With regard to herbs, this could not always have 
been the rule, for I never go into an old English 
garden without finding there a border with all 
the good old-fashioned pot herbs growing lustily, 
I do not say that the use of herbs is unknown, 
for of course the best cookery is impossible with- 
out them, but I fear that sage mixed with onion 
is about the only one which ever tickles the palate 
of the great English middle-class. And simul- 
taneously with the use of herb flavouring in soup 
has arisen the practice of adding wine, which to 
me seems a very questionable one. If wine is 
put in soup at all, it must be used so sparingly as 
to render its presence imperceptible. Why then 
use it at all? In some sauces wine is necessary, 
but in all cases it is as difficult to regulate as 
garlic, and requires the utmost vigilance on the 
part of the cook." 

" My last cook, who was very stout and a little 


middle-aged, would always use flavouring sauces 
from the grocer's rather than walk up to the 
garden, where we have a most seductive herb 
bed," said Mrs. Wilding; "and then, again, the 
love of the English for pungent-made sauces is 
another reason for this makeshift practice. ' Oh, 
a table-spoonful of somebody's sauce will do for 
the flavouring,' and in goes the sauce, and the 
flavouring is supposed to be complete. People 
who eat their chops, and steaks, and fish, and 
game, after having smothered the natural flavour 
with the same harsh condiment, may be satisfied 
with a cuisine of this sort, but to an unvitiated 
palate the result is nauseous." 

"Yet as a Churchwoman, Mrs. Wilding, you 
ought to speak with respect of English sauces. 
I think I have heard how a libation of one of 
them, which was poured over a certain cathedral, 
has made it look as good as new," said Miss 
Macdonnell, "and we have lately learned that 
one of the most distinguished of our party is 
ambitious to enter the same career." 

" I would suggest that Sir John should devote 
all that money he proposes to make by the aid 
of his familiar spirit — the ghost of Narcisse — to 
the building of a temple in honour of the tenth 
muse, the muse of cookery," said Mrs. Sinclair ; 
"and what do you think, Sir John, of a name I 



dreamt of last night for your sauce, ' The New 
Century Sauce ' ? How will that do ? " 

"Admirably," said Sir John after a moment's 
pause; "admirably enough to allow me to offer 
you a royalty on every bottle sold. ' The New 
Century Sauce ' — that's the name for me ; and 
now to set to work to build the factory, and to 
order plans for the temple of the tenth muse." 

Menu — Lunch. 

Maccheroni al pbmidoro. 
Vitello al pellegrina. 
Animelle al sapor di targone. 

Macaroni with tomatoes. 
Veal cutlets alia pellegrina. 
Sweetbread with tarragon 

Menu — Dinner. 

Zuppa alia Canavese. 
Naselli con piselli. 
Coscia di manzo al forno. 
Lingua alia Visconti. 
Anitra selvatica. 
Zabajone ghiacciato. 
Crostatini alia capucinai 

Soup alia Canavese. 

Whiting with peas. 

Braized ribs of beef. 

Tongue with grapes. 

Wild duck. 

Iced syllabub. 

Savoury of rice, truffles, &c. 


"We are getting unpleasantly near the end of 
our time," said the Colonel, "but I am sure not 
one of us has learnt one tithe of what the Mar- 
chesa has to teach." 

" My dear Colonel Trestrail," said the Mar- 
chesa, "an .education in cookery does not mean 
the Reaching of a certain number of recipes. 
Education, I maintain, is something far higher 
than the mere imparting of facts ; my notion of 
it is the teaching of people to teach themselves, 
and this is what I have tried to do in the kitchen. 
With some of you I am sure I have succeeded, 
and a book containing the recipe of every dish 
we have tried will be given to every pupil when 
we break up." 

" I think the most valuable lesson I have learnt 
is that cookery is a matter for serious study," said 
Mrs. Sinclair. "The popular English view seems 
to be that it is one of those things which gets 
itself done. The food is subjected to the action 
of heat, a little butter, or pepper, or onion, being 
added by way of flavouring, and the process is 



complete. To put it bluntly, it requires at lea; 
as much mental application to roast a fowl as 1 
cut a bodice ; ' but it does not strike the averag 
Englishwoman in this way, for she will spen 
hours in thinking and talking about dressmakin 
(which is generally as ill done as her cooking 
while she will be reluctant to give ten minutes 1 
the consideration as to how a luncheon or supp< 
dish shall be prepared. The English middl< 
classes are most culpably negligent about tr 
food they eat, "and as a consequence they g< 
exactly the sort of cooks they deserve to ge 
I do not blame the cooks ; if they can get pai 
for cooking ill, why should they trouble to leai 
to cook well ? " 

" I agree entirely," said Mrs. Wilding. ' " Th; 
saying, ' What I like is good plain roast ar 
boiled, and none of your foreign kickshaws,' i 
as every one knows, the stock utterance of Jot 
Bull on the stage or in the novel ; and, thoug 
John Bull is not in the least like his fictttioi 
presentment, this form of words is largely r< 
sponsible for the waste and want of variety in tl 
English kitchen. The plain roast and boile 
means a joint every day, and this arrangemei 
the good plain cook finds an admirable one f< 
several reasons : it means little trouble, and 
means also lots of scraps and bones and was 


pieces. The good plain cook brings all the 
forces of obstruction to bear whenever the mis- 
tress suggests made dishes; and, should this 
suggestion ever be carried out, she takes care 
that the achievement shall be of a character 
not likely to invite repetition. Not long ago 
a friend of mine was questioning a cook as to 
soups, whereupon the cook answered' that she 
had never been required to make such things 
where she had lived ; all soups were bought in 
tins or bottles, and had simply to be warmed 
up. Cakes, too, were outside her repertoire, 
having always been ' had in ' from the con- 
fectioner's, while 'entrys' were in her opinion, 
and in the opinion of her various mistresses, 
'un'ealthy' and not worth making." 

" My experience is that, if a mistress takes 
an interest in cooking, she will generally have a 
fairly efficient cook," said Mrs. Fothergill.. " I 
agree with Mrs. Sinclair that our English cooks 
are spoilt by neglect ; and I think it is hard 
upon them, as a class, that so many inefficient 
women should be able to pose as cooks while 
they are unable to boil a potato properly." 

"And the so-called schools of cookery are 
quite useless in what they teach," said Miss 
Macdonnell. " I once sent a cook of mine to 
one to learn how to make a clear soup, and 


when she came back, she sent up, as an evi- 
dence of her progress, a potato pie coloured 
pink and green — a most poisonous-looking dish 
— and her clear soups were as bad as ever." 

Said the Colonel, " I will beg leave to enter 
a protest against the imperfections of that re- 
past which is supposed to be the peculiar delight 
of the ladies — I allude to afternoon tea. I want 
to" know why it is that unless I happen to call just 
when the tea is brought up — I grant, I know of a 
few houses which are honourable exceptions — I 
am fated to drink that most abominable of all 
decoctions, stewed lukewarm tea. 'Will you 
have some tea? I'm afraid it isn't quite fresh,' 
the hostess will remark without a blush. What 
would she think if her husband at dinner were to 
say, 'Colonel, take a glass of that champagne. 
It was opened the day before yesterday, and 
I daresay the fizz has gone off a little ' ? Tea is 
cheap enough, and yet the hostess seldom or never 
thinks of ordering up a fresh pot. I believe it is 
because she is afraid of the butler." 

" I sympathise with you fully, Colonel," said 
Lady Considine, " and my withers are unwrung. 
You do not often honour me with your presence 
on Tuesdays, but I am sure I may claim to be 
one of your honourable exceptions." 

" Indeed you may," said the Colonel. " Perhaps 


men ought not to intrude on these occasions ; 
but I have a preference for taking tea in a pretty 
drawing-room, with a lot of agreeable women, 
rather than in a club surrounded by old chaps 
growling over the latest job at the War Office, 
and a younger brigade chattering' about the latest 
tape prices, and the weights for the spring 

" All these little imperfections go to prove that 
we are not a nation of cooks," said Van der Roet. 
" We can't be everything. Heine once said that 
the Romans would never have found ..time to 
conquer the world if they had been obliged to 
learn the Latin grammar; and it is the same 
with us. We can't expect to found an empire 
all over the planet, and "" cook as well as the 
French, who — perhaps wisely — never willingly 
emerge from the four corners of their own land." 

"There is energy enough left in us when we 
set about some purely utilitarian task," said Mrs. 
Wilding, " but we never throw ourselves into the 
arts with the enthusiasm of the Latin races. I 
was reading the other day of a French costumier 
who rushed to inform a lady, who had ordered 
a turban, of his success, exclaiming, ' Madame, 
apres trois nuits d'insomnie les plumes sont 
placees.' And every one knows the story of 
Vatel's suicide because the fish failed to arrive. 



No Englishman would be capable of flights like 

"Really, this indictment of English cookery 
makes me a little nervous," said Lady Considine. 
" I have promised to join in a driving tour through 
the southern counties. I shudder to think of the 
dinners I shall have to eat at the commercial 
hotels and posting-houses on our route." 

" English country inns are not what they ought 
to be, but now and then you come across one 
which is very good indeed, as good, if not better, 
than anything you could find in any other coun- 
try ; but I fear I must admit that, charges consi- 
dered, the balance is against us," said Sir John. 

"When you start you ought to secure Sir 
John's services as courier, Lady Considine," said 
the Marchesa. " I once had the pleasure of 
driving for a week through the Apennines in a 
party under his guidance, and I can assure you 
we found him quite honest and obliging." 

" Ah, Marchesa, I was thinking of that happy 
time this very morning," said Sir John. "Of 
Arezzo, where we were kept for three days by 
rain, which I believe is falling there still. Of 
Cortona, with that wonderful little restaurant on 
the edge of the cliff, whence you see Thrasymene 
lying like a silver mirror in the plain below. Of 
Perugia, the august, of Gubbio, Citta di Castello, 


Borgo San Sepolcro, Urbino, and divers others. 
If you go for a drive in Italy, you still may meet 
with humours of the road such as travellers of 
old were wont to enjoy. I well remember on the 
road between Perugia and Gubbio we began to 
realise we were indeed traversing mountain paths. 
On a sudden the driver got down, waved his 
arms, and howled to some peasants working in a 
field below. These, on their part, responded with 
more arm-waving and howling, directed appa- 
rently towards a village farther up the hill, 
whereupon we were assailed with visions of bri- 
gands, and amputated ears, and ransom. But 
at a turn of the road we came upon two magnifi- 
cent white oxen, which, being harnessed on in 
front, drew us, and our carriages and horses as 
well, up five miles of steep incline. These beau- 
tiful fellows, it seemed, were what the driver was 
signalling for, and not for brigands. Again, every 
inn we stayed at supplied us with some represen- 
tative touch of local life and habit. Here the 
whole personnel of the inn, reinforced by a goodly 
contingent of the townsfolk, would accompany 
us even into our bedrooms, and display the 
keenest interest in the unpacking of our luggage. 
There the cook would come and take personal 
instructions as to the coming meal, throwing out 
suggestions the while as to the merits of thisor 


that particular dish, and in one place the ancient 
chambermaid insisted that one of the ladies, Who 
had got a slight cold, should have the prete put 
into her bed for a short time to warm it. You 
need not look shocked, Colonel. The prete in 
question was merely a wooden frame, in the midst 
of which hangs a scaldino filled with burning 
ashes — a most comforting ecclesiastic, I can 
assure you. All the inns we visited had certain 
characteristics in common. The entrance is 
always dirty, and the staircase too, the dining- 
rooms fairly comfortable, the bedrooms always 
clean and good, and the food much better than 
you would expect to find in such out-of-the-way 
places- ; indeed I cannot think of any inn where it 
was not good and wholesome, while often it was 
delicious. In short, Lady Considine, I strongly 
advise you to take a drive in Italy next spring, 
and if I am free I shall be delighted to act as 

" Sir John has forgotten one or two touches 1 
must fill in," said the Marchesa. " It was often 
difficult to arrange a stopping-place for lunch, so 
we always stocked our basket before starting. 
After the first day's experience we decided that it 
was vastly more pleasant to take our meal while 
.going uphill at a foot-pace, than in the swing and 
jolt of a descent, so the route and the pace of the 


horses had to be regulated in order to give us a 
good hour's ascent about noon. Fortunately hills 
are plentiful in this part of Italy, and in the keen 
air we generally made an end of the vast store of 
provisions we laid in, and the generous fiascho was 
always empty a little too soon. Our drive came to 
an end at Fano, whither we had gone on account 
of a strange romantic desire of Sir John to look 
upon an angel which Browning had named in one 
of his poems. Ah ! how vividly I can recall our 
pursuit of that picture. It was a wet, melancholy 
day. The people of Fano were careless of the 
fame of their angel, for no one knew the church 
which it graced. At last We came upon it by the 
merest chance, and Sir John led the procession 
up to the shrine, where we all stood for a time in 
positions of mock admiration. Sir John tried 
hard to keep up the imposition, but something, 
either his innate honesty or the chilling environ- 
ment of disapproval of Guercino's handiwork, was 
too much for him. He did his best to admire, 
but the task was beyond his powers, and he 
raised no protest when some scoffer affirmed that, 
though Browning might be a great poet, he was 
a mighty poor judge of painting, when he gave in 
his beautiful poem immortality to this tawdry 
theatrical canvas. ' I think,' said Sir John, "we 
had better go back to the hotel and order lunch. 


It would have been wiser to have ordered it be- 
fore we left.' We were all so much touched by 
his penitence that no one had the heart to re- 
mind him how a proposition as to lunch had been 
made by our leading Philistine as soon as we 
arrived, a proposition waved aside by Sir John as 
inadmissible until the ' Guardian Angel ' should 
have been seen and admired." 

" I plead guilty," said Sir John. " I think this 
experience gave a death-blow to my career as an 
appreciator. Anyhow, I quite forget what the 
angel was like, and for reminiscences of Fano 
have to fall back upon the excellent colazione we 
ate in the externally unattractive, but internally 
admirable, Albergo del Moro." 

Menu — Lunch. 
Astachi all' italiana. Lobster all' Italiana. 

Filetto di bue alia napolitana. Fillet of beef with Neapolitan 

Risotto alia spagnuola. Savoury rice. 

Menu — Dinner. 
Zuppa alia Romana. Soup with quenelles. 

Salmone alia Genovese. , Salmon alia Gtenovese. 

Costolette in agro-dolce. Mutton cutlets with Roman 

Flano di spinacci. Spinach in a mould. 

Cappone con riso. Capon with rice. 

Croccante di mandorle. Almond sweet. 

Ostriche alia Napolitana. Oyster savoury. * 


"Since I have been associated with the pro- 
duction of a dinner, I have had my eyes opened 
as to the complicated nature of the task, and the 
numerous strings which have to be pulled in 
order to ensure success," said the Colonel; "but, 
seeing that a dinner-party with well-chosen sym- 
pathetic guests and distinguished dishes re- 
presents one of the consummate triumphs of 
civilisation, there is no reason to wonder. To 
achieve a triumph of any sort , demands an 

" Effort," said Miss Macdonnell. " Yes, effort 
is the word I associate with so many middle-class 
English dinners. It is an effort to the hostsi 
who regard the whole business as a mere pay- 
ing off of debts ; and an effort to the guests, 
who, as they go to dress, recall grisly memories of 
former similar experiences. It often astonishes 
me that dinner-giving of this character should 
still flourish." 

" The explanation is easy," said Van der Roet ; 
" it flourishes because it gives a mark of distinc- 


tion. It is a delicious moment for Mrs. Johnson 
when she is able to say to Mrs. Thompson, ' My 
dear, I am quite worn-out ; we dined out every 
day last week, and have four more dinners in 
the next five days.' These good people show 
their British grit by the persistency with which 
they go on with their penitential hospitality, and 
their lack of ideas in never attempting to modify 
it so as to make it a pleasure instead of a dis- 
agreeable duty." 

"It won't do to generalise too widely, Van 
der Roet," said Sir John. "Some of these 
good people surely enjoy their party-giving; 
and, from my ojrn experience of one or two 
houses of this sort, I can assure you the 
food is quite respectable. The great imperfec- 
tion seems to lie in the utter want of con- 
sideration in the choice of guests. A certain 
number of people and a certain quantity of 
food shot into a room, that is their notion of a 

"Of course we understand that the success 
of a dinner depends much more on the character 
of the guests than on the character of the 
food," said Mrs. Sinclair; "and most of us, I 
take it, are able to fill our tables with pleasant 
friends ; but what of the dull people who know 
none but dull people? What gain will they get 


by taking counsel how they shall fill their 

"More, perhaps, than you think, dear Mrs. 
Sinclair," said Sir John. " Dull people often 
enjoy themselves immensely when they meet 
dull people only. The frost comes when the 
host unwisely mixes in one or two guests of 
another sort — people who give themselves airs 
of finding more pleasure in reading Stevenson 
than the sixpenny magazines, and who don't 
know where Hurlingham is. Then the sheep 
begin to segregate themselves from the goats, 
and the feast is manqud" 

"Considering what a trouble and anxiety a 
dinner-party must be to the hostess, even under 
the most favouring conditions, I am always at a 
loss to discover why so many women take so 
much pains, and spend a considerable sum of 
money as Well, over details which are unessen- 
tial, or even noxious," said Mrs. Wilding. "A 
few flowers on the table are all very well— one 
bowl in the centre is enough— but in many houses 
the cost of the flowers equals, if it does not out- 
run, the cost of all the rest of the entertainment. 
A few roses Or chrysanthemums are perfect as 
accessories, but to loacf a table with flowers of 
heavy or pungent scent is an outrage. Lilies of 
the valley are lovely in proper surroundings, but 


on a dinner-table they are anathema. And then 
the mass of paper monstrosities which crowd 
every corner. Swans, nautilus shells, and even 
wild boars are used to hold up the menu. Once 
my menu was printed on a satin flag, and during 
the war the universal khaki invaded the dinner 
table. Ices are served in frilled baskets of paper, 
which have a tendency to dissolve and amalga- 
mate with the sweet. The only paper on the 
table should be the menu, writ plain on a hand- 
some card." 

" No one can complain of papery ices here," 
said the Marchesa. " Ices may be innocuous, 
but I don't favour them, and no one seems to 
have felt the want of them ; at least, to adopt 
the phrase of the London shopkeeper, ' I have 
had no complaints.' And even the ice, the very 
emblem of purity, has not escaped the touch of 
the dinner-table decorator. Only a few days 
ago I helped myself with my fingers to what 
looked like a lovely peach, and let it flop down 
into the lap of a bishop who was sitting next 
to me. This was the hostess's pretty taste in 

"They are generally made in the shape of 
camelias this season," said Van der Roet. " I 
knew a man who took one and stuck it in his 


" I must say I enjoy an ice at dinner," said 
Lady Considine. " I know the doctors abuse 
them, but I notice they always eat them when 
they get the chance." 

" Ah, that is merely human inconsistency," said 
Sir John. " I am inclined to agree with the 
Marchesa that ice at dinner is an incongruity, 
and may well be dispensed with. I think I am 
correct, Marchesa, in assuming that Italy, which 
has showered so many boons upon us, gave us 
also the taste for ices." 

" I fear I must agree," said the Marchesa. " I 
now feel what a blessing it would have been for 
you English if you had learnt from us instead 
the art of cooking the admirable vegetables 
your gardens produce. How is it that English 
cookery has never found any better treatment for 
vegetables than to boil them quite plain ? French 
beans so treated are tender, and of a pleasant 
texture on the palate, but I have never been 
able to find any taste in them. They are taste- 
less largely because the cook persists in shredding 
them into minute bits, and I maintain that they 
ought to be cooked whole — certainly when they 
are young — and saute, a perfectly plain and easy 
process, which is hard to beat. Plain boiled cauli- 
flower is doubtless good, but cooked alia crema 
it is far better ; indeed, it is one of the best vege- 


table dishes I know. But perhaps the greatest 
discovery in cookery we Italians ever made was 
the combination of vegetables and cheese. There 
are a dozen excellent methods of cooking cauli- 
flower with cheese, and one of these has come to 
you through France, choux-fleurs au gratin, and 
has become popular. Jerusalem artichokes treated 
in the same fashion are excellent ; and the cucum- 
ber, nearly always eaten raw in England, holds a 
first place as a vegetable for cooking. I seem to 
remember that every one was loud in its praises 
when we tasted it as an adjunct to Manzo alia 
Certosina. Why is it that celery is for the most 
part only eaten raw with cheese? We have 
numberless methods of cooking it in Italy, and 
beetroot and lettuce as well. There is no spin- 
ach so good as English, and nowhere is it so 
badly cooked ; it is always coarse and gritty 
because so little trouble, is taken with it, and 
I can assure you that the smooth, delicate 
dish which we call Flano di spinacci is not pro- 
duced merely by boiling and chopping it, and 
turning it out into a dish." 

Menu — Lunch. 

Minestrone alia Milanese. Vegetable broth. 

Coniglio alia Provenzale. Rabbit alia Provenzale. 

Insalata di pomidoro. Tomato salad. 



Menu — Dinner. 

Zuppa alia Maria Pia. 

Anguilla con ortaggi alia Mila- 

Manzo con sugo di barba 

Animelle alia parmegiana. 

Perniciotti alia Gastalda. 

Uova ripieni. 

Soup alia Maria Pia. 
Eels with vegetables. 

Fillet of beef with beetroot 

Sweetbread with parmesan. 
Partridges alia Gastalda. 
Stuffed eggs. 


The sun rose on the tenth and last day at the 
" Laurestinas " as he was wont to rise on less 
eventful mornings. At breakfast the Marchesa 
proposed that the lunch that day should be a little 
more ornate than usual, and the dinner somewhat 
simpler. She requisitioned the services of six of 
the company to prepare the lunch, and at the 
same time announced that they would all have a 
holiday in the afternoon except Mrs. Sinclair, 
whom she warned to be ready to spend the after- 
noon in the kitchen helping prepare the last 

Four dishes, all admirable, appeared at lunch, 
and several of the party expressed regret that 
the heat of the weather forbade them from tast- 
ing every one ; but Sir John was not of these. 
He ate steadily through the menu, and when he 
finally laid down his knife and fork he heaved 
a sigh, whether of satisfaction or regret it were 
hard to say. 

"It is a commonplace of the deepest dye to 

remark that ingratitude is inherent in mankind," 

7 8 


he began ; "I am compelled to utter it, however, 
by the sudden longing I feel for a plat from the 
hand of the late lamented Narcisse after I have 
eaten one. of the best luncheons ever put on a 

" Experience of one school of excellence has 
caused a hankering after the triumphs of 
another," said Miss Macdonnell. " There is 
one glory of the Marchesa, there is, or was, 
another of Narcisse, and the taste of the Mar- 
chesa's handiwork has stimulated the desire of 
eomparison. Never mind, Sir John, perhaps in 
another world Narcisse may cook you " 

" Oh stop, stop, for goodness' sake," cried Sir 
John, " I doubt whether even he could make me 
into a dainty dish to set before the King of 
Tartarus, though the stove would no doubt be 
fitted with the latest improvements and the fuel 

" Really, Sir John, I'm not sure I ought not 
to rise and protest," said Mrs. Wilding, " and I 
think I would if it weren't our last day." 

" Make a note of Sir John's wickedness, and 
pass it on to the Canon for use in a sermon," 
said Van der Roet. 

" I can only allow you half-an-hour, Laura," 
said the Marchesa to Mrs. Sinclair, "then you 
must come and work with me for the delectation 


of these Idle people, who are going to spend the 
afternoon talking scandal under the chestnuts." 

" I am quite ready to join you if I can be of 
any help," said Mrs. Gradinger. " When know- 
ledge is to be acquired, I am always loth to stand 
aside, not for my own sake so much as for the 
sake of others less fortunate, to whom I might 
possibly impart it hereafter." 

"You are very good," said the Marchesa, 
" but I think I must adhere to my original 
scheme of having Mrs. Sinclair by herself. I see 
coffee is now being taken into the garden, so we 
will adjourn, if you please." 

After the two workers had departed for the 
kitchen, an unwonted silence fell on the party 
under the chestnuts. Probably every one was 
pondering over the imminent dissolution of the 
company, and wondering whether to regret or 
rejoice. The peace had been kept marvellously 
well, considering the composition of the company. 
Mrs. Fothergill at times had made a show of 
posing as the beneficent patron, and Mrs. Grad- 
inger had essayed to teach what nobody wanted 
to learn ; but firm and judicious snubbing had kept 
these persons in their proper places. Nearly 
every one was sorry that the end had come. It 
had been real repose to Mrs. Wilding to pass ten 
days in an atmosphere entirely free from all per- 


fume of the cathedral close. Lady Considine 
had been spending freely of late, and ten days' 
cessation of tradesmen's calls, and servants on 
board wages, had come as a welcome relief. Sir 
John had gained a respite from the task he 
dreaded, the task of going in quest of a suc- 
cessor to Narcisse. Now as he sat consuming 
his cigarette in the leisurely fashion so charac- 
teristic of his enjoyment — and those who knew 
him best were wont to say that Sir John practised 
few arts so studiously as that of enjoyment — he 
could not banish the figure of Narcisse from his 
reverie. A horrible thought assailed him that 
this obsession might spring from the fact that on 
this very morning Narcisse might have taken his 
last brief walk out of the door of La Roquette, 
and that his disembodied spirit might be hover- 
ing around. Admirable as the cookery of the 
Marchesa' had been, and fully as he had appre- 
ciated it, he felt he would give a good deal to 
be assured that on this the last evening of the 
New Decameron he might sit down to a dinner 
prepared by the hand of his departed chef. 

That evening the guests gathered round the 
table with more empressement than usual. The 
Marchesa seemed a little flurried, and Mrs. 
Sinclair, in a way, shared her excitement. The 
menu, for the first time, was written in French, 



a fact which did not escape Sir John's eye. He 
made no remark as to the soup ; it was the best 
of its kind, and its French name made it no 
better than the other triumphs in the same field 
which the Marchesa had achieved. But when 
Sir John tasted the first mouthful of the fish he 
paused, and after a reflective and regretful look 
at his plate, he cast his eye round the table. All 
the others, however, were too busily intent in 
consuming the Turbot d la VatelX.o heed his in- 
terrogative glance, so he followed suit, and after 
he had finished his portion, asked, sotto voce, for 
another bit. 

In the interval before the service' of the next 
dish Sir John made several vain attempts to 
catch the Marchesa's eye, and more than once 
tried to get in a word ; but she kept up a forced 
and rather nervous conversation with Lady Con- 
sidine and Van der Roet, and refused to listen. 
As Sir John helped himself to the next dish, 
Venaison, sauce Grand Veneur, the feeling of as- 
tonishment which had seized him when he first 
tasted the fish deepened into something like con- 
sternation. Had his palate indeed deceived 
him, or had the Marchesa, by some subtle effort 
of experimental genius, divined the secret of 
Narcisse — the secret of that incomparable sauce, 
the recipe of which was safely bestowed in his 


pocket-book ? Occasionally he had taken a brief 
nap under the verandah after lunch : was it pos- 
sible that in his sleep he might have murmured, 
in her hearing, words which gave the key of the 
mystery, and the description of those ingredients 
which often haunted his dreams? One thing 
was certain, that the savour which rose from the 
venison before him was the same which haunted 
his memory as the parting effort of the ill-starred 

Sir John was the least superstitious of mortals, 
still here he was face to face with one of these 
conjunctions of affairs which the credulous accept 
as manifestations of some hidden power, and 
sceptics as coincidences and nothing more. All the 
afternoon he had been thinking of Narcisse, and 
yearning beyond measure for something sugges- 
tive of his art ; and here, on his plate before him, 
was food which might have been touched by the 
vanished hand. The same subtle influence per- 
vaded the Chartreuse a la cardinal, the roast 
capon and salad, and the sweet. At last, when 
the dinner was nearly over, and when the 
Marchesa had apparently said all she had to 
say to Van der Roet, he lifted up his voice and 
said, " Marchesa, who gave you the recipe for 
the sauce with which the venison was served 
this evening?" 


The Marchesa glanced at Mrs. Sinclair, and 
then struck a hand-bell on the table. The 
door opened, and a Iktle man, habited in a 
cook's dress of spotless white, entered and 
came forward. "J^f. Narcisse," said the Mar- 
chesa, " Sir John wants to know what sauce 
was used in dressing the venison ; perhaps you 
can tell him." 

Here the Marchesa rose and left the room, and 
all the rest followed her, feeling it was unmeet 
that such a reunion should be witnessed by other 
eyes, however friendly they might be. 

" Now, you must tell us all about it," said 
Lady Considine, as soon as they got into the 
drawirig-room, " and how you ever managed to 
get him out of this scrape." 

" Oh, there isn't much to tell," said the 
Marchesa. " Narcisse was condemned, indeed, 
but no one ever believed he would be executed. 
One of my oldest friends is married to an official 
high up in the Ministry of Justice, and I heard 
from her last week that Narcisse would certainly 
be reprieved ; but I never expected a free pardon. 
Indeed, he got this entirely because it was dis- 
covered that Mademoiselle Sidonie, his accom- 
plice, was really a Miss Adah Levine, who had 
graduated at a music-hall in East London, and 


that she had announced her intention of retiring 
to the land of her birth, and ascending to the 
apex of her profession on the strength of her 
Parisian reputation. Then it was that the re- 
action in favour of Narcisse set in ; the boule- 
vards could not stand this. The journals dealt 
with this new outrage in their best Fashoda style ; 
the cafds rang with it : another insult cast upon 
unhappy France, whose destiny was, it seemed, to 
weep tears of blood to the end of time. There 
were rumours of an interpellation in the Chamber, 
the position of the Minister of the Interior was 
spoken of as precarious, indeed the Eclaireur 
reported one evening that he had resigned. 
Pockets were picked under the eyes of sergents 
de ville, who were absorbed in proclaiming to 
each other their conviction of the innocence of 
Narcisse, and the guilt of cette coquine Anglaise. 
Cabmen en course ran down pedestrians by the 
dozen, as they discussed l' affaire Narcisse to an 
accompaniment of whip-cracking. In front of 
the Caf6 des Automobiles a belated organ-grinder 
began to grind the air of Mademoiselle Sidonie J s 
great song Bonjour Coco, whereupon the whole 
company rose with howls and cries of, ' A bas 
les Anglais, a bas les Juifs.' 'Conspuez Coco.' 
In less than five minutes the organ was dis- 
integrated, and the luckless minstrel flying with 


torn trousers down a side street. For the next 
few days la haute gomme promenaded with frag- , 
ments of the piano organ suspended from watch 
chains as trophies of victory. But this was not 
all. Paris broke out into poetry over I'affaire 
Narcisse, and here is a journal sent to me by 
my friend which contains a poem in forty-nine 
stanzas by Aristophane le Beletier, the cher 
maitre of the ' Moribonds,' the very newest 
school of poetry in Paris. I won't inflict the 
whole of it on you, but two stanzas I must 
read — 

" ' Puiss6-je te rappeler loin des brouillards maudits 
Vers la France, sainte mere et nourrice 1 
Reviens a Lutece, de Fart vrai paradis, 
Je t'evoque, O Monsieur Narcisse ! 

Quitte les saignants bifteks, de tes mains sublimes 

Gueris le sein meurtri de ta mere ! 
De'tourne ton glaive tranchant de tes freles victimes 

Vers 1' Albion et sa triste Megere.' " 

" Dear me, it sounds a little like some other 

Parisian odes I have read recently," said Lady 

Considine. " The triste Mttgere, I take it, is pooi 

old Britannia, but what does he mean by his 

f riles victimes ? " 

"No doubt they are the pigeons and the 
rabbits, and the chickens and the capons which 


Narcisse is supposed to have slaughtered in heca- 
tombs, in order to gorge the brutal appetite of his 
English employer," said Miss Macdonnell. "After 
disregarding such an appeal as this M. Narcisse 
had better keep clear of Paris for the future, 
for if he should go back and be recognised I 
fancy it would be a case of ' conspuez Narcisse' " 

"The French seem to have lost all sense of 
exactness," said Mrs. Gradinger, " for the lines 
you have just read would not pass muster as 
classic. In the penultimate line there are two 
syllables in excess of the true Alexandrine metre, 
and the last line seems too long by one. Neither 
Racine nor Voltaire would have taken such 
liberties with prosody. I remember a speech 
in PhZdre of more than a hundred lines which 
is an admirable example of what I mean. I dare 
say some of you know it. It begins : — 

" Perfide ! oses-tu bien te montrer devant moi ? 
Monstre — " 

but before the reciter could get fairly under way 
the door mercifully opened, and Sir John entered. 
He advanced towards the Marchesa, and shook 
her warmly by the hand, but said nothing ; his 
heart was evidently yet too full to allow him to 
testify his relief in words. He was followed 
closely by the Colonel, who, taking his stand on 


the hearth-rug, treated the company to a few re- 
marks, couched in a strain of unwonted eulogy. 
In the whole course of his life he had never 
passed a more pleasant ten days, though, to be 
sure, he had been a little mistrustful at first. As 
to the outcome of the experiment, if they all 
made even moderate use of the counsels they 
had received from the Marchesa, the future of 
cookery in England was now safe. He was not 
going to propose a formal vote of thanks, because 
anything he could say would be entirely insuf- 
ficient to express the gratitude he felt, and be- 
cause he deemed that each individual could best 
thank the Marchesa on his or her behalf. 

There was a momentary silence when the 
Colonel ceased, and then a clearing of the throat 
and a preliminary movement of the arms gave 
warning that Mrs. Gradinger was going to speak. 
The unspoken passage from Racine evidently sat 
heavily on her chest. Abstracted and over- 
wrought as he was, these symptoms aroused in 
Sir John a consciousness of impending danger, 
and he rushed, incontinent, into the breach, before 
the lady's opening sentence was ready. 

"As Colonel Trestrail has just remarked, we, 
all of us, are in debt to the Marchesa in no small 
degree ; but, in my case, the debt is tenfold. I 
am sure you all understand why. As a slight 


acknowledgment of the sympathy I have re- 
ceived from every one here, during my late trial, 
I beg to ask you all to dine with me this day 
week, when I will try to set before you a repast 
d la Frangqise, which I hope may equal — 
I cannot hope that it will excel — the dinners 
air Italiana we have tasted in this happy re- 
treat. Narcisse and I have already settled the 

" I am delighted to accept," said the Marchesa. 
" I have no engagement, and if I had I would 
throw my best friend over." 

" And this day fortnight you must all dine 
with me," said Mrs. Sirclair. " I will spend the 
intervening days in teaching my new cook how 
to reproduce the Marchesa's dishes. Then, per- 
haps, we may be in a better position to decide 
on the success of the Marchesa's experiment." 

The next morning witnessed the dispersal of 
the party^ Sir John and Narcisse left by an 
early train, and for the next few days the 
reforming hand of the last-named was active 
in the kitchen. He arrived before the departure 
of the temporary aide, and had not been half- 
an-hour in the house before there came an 
outbreak which might easily have ended in the 
second appearance of Narcisse at the bar of 


justice, as homicide, this time to be dealt with 
by a prosaic British jury, which would probably 
have doomed him to the halter. Sir John 
listened over the balusters to the shrieks and 
howls of his recovered treasure, and wisely de- 
cided to lunch at his club. But the club lunch, 
admirable as it was, seemed flat and unappe- 
tising after the dainty yet simple dishes he 
had recently tasted ; and the following day he 
set forth to search for one of those Italian 
restaurants, of which he had heard vague reports. 
Certainly the repast would not be the same as 
at the " Laurestinas," but it might serve for once. 
Alas! Sir John did not find the right place — 
for there are "right places" amongst the Italian 
restaurants of London. He beat a hasty retreat 
from the first he entered, when the officious pro- 
prietor assured him that he would serve up a 
ddjeuner in the best French style. At the second 
he chose a dish with an Italian name, but the 
name was the only Italian thing about it. The 
experiment had failed. It seemed as if Italian 
restaurateurs were sworn not to cook Italian 
dishes, and the next day he went to do as best 
he could at the club. 

But before he reached the club door he re- 
called how, many years ago, he and other young 
bloods used to go for chops to Morton's, a 


queer little house at the back of St. James' 
Street, and towards Morton's he now turned 
his steps. As he entered it it seemed as if it 
was only yesterday that he was there. He 
beheld the waiter, with mouth all awry, through 
calling down the tube. The same old mahogany 
partitions to the boxes, and the same horse-hair 
benches. Sir John seated himself in a box, where 
there was one other luncher in the corner, 
deeply absorbed over a paper. This luncher 
raised his head and Sir John recognised Van 
der Roet. 

" My dear Vander, whatever brought you here, 
where nothing is to be had but chops? I didn't 
know you could eat a chop." 

"I didn't know it myself till to-day," said 
Van der Roet, with a hungry glance at the waiter, 
who rushed by with a plate of smoking chops 
in each hand. "The fact is, I've had a sort of 
hankering after an Italian lunch, and 1 went out 
to find one, but I didn't exactly hit on the right 
shop, so I came here, where I've been told you 
can get a chop properly cooked, if you don't mind 

" Ah ! I see," said Sir John, laughing. " We've 
both been on the same quest, and have been 
equally unlucky. Well, we shall satisfy our hun- 
ger here at any rate, arid not unpleasantly either." 


"I went to one place," said Van der Roet, 
"and before ordering I asked the waiter if there 
was any garlic in the dish I had ordered. ' Gar- 
lic, aglio, no, sir, never.' Whereupon I thought I 
would go somewhere else. Next I entered the 
establishment of Baldassare Romanelli. How 
could a man with such a name serve anything 
else than the purest Italian cookery, I reasoned, 
so I ordered, unquestioning, a piatto with an 
ideal Italian name, Manzo alia Terracina. Alas! 
the beef used in the composition thereof must 
have come in a refrigerating chamber from pas- 
tures more remote than those of Terracina, and 
the sauce served with it was simply fried onions. 
In short, my dish was beefsteak and onions, and 
very bad at that. So in despair I fell back upon 
the trusty British chop." 

As Van der Roet ceased speaking another 
guest entered the room, and he and Sir John 
listened attentively while the new-comer gave his 
order. There was no mistaking the Colonel's 
strident voice. " Now, look here ! I want a chop 
underdone — underdone, you understand, with a 
potato, and a small glass of Scotch whisky — 
and I'll sit here." 

" The Colonel, by Jove," said Sir John ; " I ex- 
pect he's been restaurant-hunting too." 

" Hallo ! " said the Colonel, as he recognised the 


other two, " I never thought I should meet you 
here : fact is, I've been reading about agricultural 
depression, and how it is the duty of everybody 
to eat chops so as to encourage the mutton trade, 
and that sort of thing." 

"Oh, Colonel, Colonel," said Van der Roet. 
" You know you've been hungering after the 
cookery of Italy, and trying to find a genuine 
Italian lunch, and have failed, just as Sir John 
and I failed, and have come here in despair. But 
never mind, just wait for a year or so, until the 
'Cook's Decameron' has had a fair run for its' 
money, and then you'll find you'll fare as well at 
the ordinary Italian restaurant as you did at the 
' Laurestinas,' and that's saying a good deal." 



As the three chief foundation sauces in cookery, Espagnole 
or brown sauce, Velut or white sauce, and Bdchamel, are 
alluded to so often in these pages, it will be well to give simple 
Italian recipes for them. 

Australian wines may be used in all recipes where wine is 
mentioned : Harvest Burgundy for red, and . Chasselas for 

No. i. Espagnole or 
Brown Sauce 

The chief ingredient of this 
useful sauce is good stock, to 
which add any remnants and 
bones of fowl or game. Butter 
the bottom of a stewpan with 
at least two ounces of butter, 
and in it put slices of lean 
veal, ham, bacon, cuttings of 
beef, fowl, or game trimmings, 
three peppercorns, mushroom 
trimmings, a tomato, a carrot, 
and a turnip cut up, an onion 
■^uck with two cloves, a bay 
leaf, a sprig of thyme, parsley y 
and marjoram. Put the lid 
on the stewpan and braize 
well for fifteen minutes, then 
stir in a tablespoonful of 

flour, and pour in a quarter 
pint of good boiling stock 
and boil very gently for fifteen 
minutes, then strain through 
a tamis, skim off all the 
grease, pour the sauce into an 
earthenware vessel, and let it 
get cold. If it is not rich 
enough, add a little Liebig or 
glaze. Pass, through a sieve 
again before using. 

No. 2. Velut6 Sauce 

The same as above, but use 
white stock, no beef, and only 
pheasant or fowl trimmings, 
button mushrooms, cream in- 
stead of glaze, and a chopped 



No. 3. Bechamel Sauce 

Ingredients : Butter, ham, 
veal, carrots, shallot, celery, 
bay leaf, cloves, thyme, pepper- 
corns, potato flour, cream, 
fowl stock. 

Prepare a mirepoix by mix- 
ing two ounces of butter, 
trimmings of lean veal and 
ham, a carrot, a shallot, a 
little celery, all cut into dice, 
a bay leaf, two cloves, four 
peppercorns, and a little 
thyme. Put this on a moder- 
ate fire so as not to let it 
colour, arid when all the 
moisture is absorbed add a 
tablespoonful of potato flour. 
Mix well, and gradually add 
equal quantities of cream and 
fowl stock, and stir till it 
boils. Then let it simmer 
gently. Stir occasionally, and 
if it gets too thick, add more 
cream and white stock. After 
two hours pass it twice slowly 
through a tamis so as to get 
the sauce very smooth. 

No. 4. Mirepoix Sauce 

(for masking) 

Ingredients: Bacon, onions, 
carrots, ham, a bunch of herbs, 
parsley, mushrooms, cloves, 
peppercorns, stock, Chablis. 

Put the following ingredi- 
ents into a stewpan: Some 

bits of bacon and lean ham, 
a carrot, all cut into dice, 
half an onion, a bunch of 
herbs, a few mushroom cut- 
tings, two cloves, and foHr 
peppercorns. To this add 
one and a quarter pint of good 
stock arid a glass of Chablis, 
boil rapidly for ten minutes, 
then simmer till it is reduced 
to a third. Pass through a 
sieve and use for masking 
meat, fowl, fish, &c. 

No. 5. Genoese Sauce 

Ingredients : Onion, butter, 
Burgundy, mushrooms, truf- 
fles, parsley, bay leaf, Espag- 
nole sauce (No. 1), blond of 
veal, essence of fish, anchovy 
butter, crayfish or lobster 

Cut up a small onion and 
fry it in butter, add a glass of 
Burgundy, some cuttings of 
mushrooms and truffles, a 
pinch of chopped parsley and 
half a bay leaf. Reduce half. 
In another saucepan put two 
cups of Espagnole sauce, one 
cup of veal stock, and a table- 
spoonful of essence of fish, 
reduce one-third and add it 
to the other saucepan, skim 
off all the grease, boil for a 
few minutes, and pass through 
a sieve. Then stir it over the 



fire, and add half a teaspoon- 
ful of crayfish and half of 
anchovy butter. 

No. 6. Italian Sauce 

Ingredients: Chablis, mush- 
rooms, leeks, a bunch of herbs, 
peppercorns, Espagnole sauce, 
game gravy or stock, lemon. 

Put into a stewpan two 
glasses of Chablis, two table- 
spoonsful of mushroom trim- 
mings, a leek cut up, a bunch 
of herbs, five peppercorns, 
and boil till it is reduced to 
half. In another stewpan 
mix two glasses of Espagnole 
(No. i) or Velute* sauce (No. 
2) and half a glass of game 
gravy, boil for a few minutes, 
then blend the contents of the 
two stewpans, pass through a 
sieve, and add the juice of a 

No. 7. Ham Sauce, 
Salsa di Prosciutto 

Ingredients : Ham, Muscat 
or sweet port, vinegar, basil, 

Cut up an ounce of ham 
and pound it in a mortar, 
then mix it with three dessert- 
spoonsful of port or Muscat 
and a teaspoonful of vinegar, 
a little dried basil and a pinch 

of spice. Boil it up, and then 
pass it through a sieve and 
warm it up in a bain-marie. 
Serve with roast meats. If 
you cannot get a sweet wine 
add half a teaspoonful of 
sugar. Australian Muscat is 
a good wine to use. . 

No. 8. Tarragon Sauce 

Ingredients : Tarragon, 
stock, butter, flour. 

To half a pint of good 
stock add two good sprays 
of fresh tarragon, simmer 
for quarter of an hour in a 
stewpan and keep the lid on. 
In another stewpan melt one 
ounce of butter and mix it 
with three dessertspoonsful of 
flour, then gradually pour the 
stock from the first stewpan 
over it, but take out the 
tarragon. Mix well, add a 
teaspoonful of finely chopped 
tarragon and boil for two 

No. 9. Tomato Sauce 

Ingredients : Tomatoes, 
ham, onions, basil, salt, oil, 
garlic, spices. 

Broil three tomatoes, skin 
them and mix them with a 
tablespoonful of chopped ham, 
half an onion, salt a dessert- 



spoonful of oil, a little pounded 
spice and basil. Then boil 
and pass through a sieve. 
Whilst the sauce is boiling, 
put in a clove of garlic with 
a cut, but remove it before 
you pass the sauce through 
the sieve. 

No. io. Tomato Sauce 

Ingredients : Ham, butter, 
onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, 
thyme, cloves, peppercorns, 
vinegar, Chablis, stock, toma- 
toes, Velute" or Espagnole 
sauce, castor sugar, lemon. 

Cut up an ounce of ham, 
half an onion, half a carrot, half 
a stick of celery very fine, and 
fry them in butter together 
with a bay leaf, a sprig of 
thyme, one clove and four 
peppercorns. Over this pour 
a third of a cup of vinegar, 
and when the liquid is all 
absorbed, add half a glass of 
Chablis and a cup of stock. 
Then add six tomatoes cut 
up and strained of all their 
liquid. Cook this in a covered 
stewpan and pass it through 
a sieve, but see that k none of 
the bay leaf or thyme goes 
through. Mix this sauce with 
an equal quantity of Velute" 
(No. 2) or Espagnole sauce, 

(No. 1), let it boil and pass 
through a sieve again and at 
the last add a teaspoonful of 
castor sugar, the juice of half 
a lemon, and an ounce of fresh 
butter. (Another tomato sauce 
may be made like this, but 
use stock instead of vinegar 
and leave out the lemon juice 
and sugar.) 

No. 11. Mushroom Sauce 

Ingredients : Velute" sauce, 
essence of mushrooms, butter. 

Mix two dessert-spoonsful 
of essence of mushrooms with 
a cupful of Velute sauce (No. 
2), reduce, keep on stirring, 
and just before serving add 
an ounce of butter. This 
sauce can be made with 
essence of truffle, or game, 
or shallot. 

No. 12. Neapolitan Sauce 

Ingredients : Onions, ham, 
butter, Marsala, blond of veal, 
thyme, bay leaf,, peppercorns, 
cloves, mushrooms, Espag- 
nole sauce (No. 1), tomato 
sauce, game stock or essence. 

Fry an onion in butter with 
some bits of cut-up ham, then 
pour a glass of Marsala over 
it, and another of blond of 
veal, add a sprig of thyme, a 



bay leaf, four peppercorns, 
a clove, a tablespoonful of 
mushroom cuttings, and re- 
duce half. In another sauce- 
pan put two cups of Espagnole 
sauce, one cupful of tomato 
sauce, and half a cup of game 
stock or essence. Reduce a 
third, and add the contents 
of the first saucepan, boil the 
sauce a few minutes, and pass 
it through a sieve. Warm it up 
in a bain-marie before using. 

No. 13. Neapolitan 
Anchovy Sauce 

Ingredients : Anchovies, 
fennel, flour, spices, parsley, 
marjoram, garlic, lemon juice, 
vinegar, cream. 

Wash three anchovies in 
vinegar, bone and pound 
them in a mortar with a tea- 
spoonful of chopped fennel 
and a pinch of cinnamon. 
Then mix in a teaspoonful of 
chopped parsley and mar- 
joram, a squeeze of lemon 
juice, a teaspoonful of flour, 
half a gill of boiled cream and 
the bones of the fish for which 
you will use this sauce. Pass 
through a sieve, add a clove 
of garlic with a cut in it, and 
boil. If the fish you are 
using is cooked in the oven, 
add a little of the liquor in 

which it has been cooked to 
the sauce. Take out the 
garlic before serving. In- 
stead ,of anchovies you may 
use caviar, pickled tunny, or 
any other pickled fish. 

No. 14. Roman Sauce 
(Salsa Agro-dolce) 

Ingredients : Espagnole 
sauce, stock, burnt sugar, 
vinegar, raisins, pine nuts or 

Mix two spoonsful of burnt 
sugar with one of vinegar, and 
dilute with a little good stock. 
Then add two cups of Espag- 
nole sauce (No. 1), a few 
stoned raisins, and a few 
pinocchi 1 (pine nuts) or 
shredded almonds. Keep 
this hot in a bain-marie, and 
serve with cutlets, calf s head 
or feet or tongue. 

No. 15. Roman Sauce 
(another way) 

Ingredients : Espagnole 
sauce, an onion, butter, flour, 
lemon, herbs, nutmeg, raisins, 
pine nuts or almonds, burnt 

Cut up a small bit of onion, 

1 The pinocchi which Italians 
use instead of almonds can be 
bought in London when in season. 



fry it slightly in butter and a 
little flour, add the juice of a 
lemon and a little of the peel 
grated, a bouquet of herbs, a 
pinch of nutmeg, a few stoned 
raisins, shredded almonds or 
pinocchi, and a tablespoonful 
of burnt sugar. Add this to 
a good Espagnole (No. i), 
and warm it up in a bain- 

No. 16. Supreme Sauce 

Ingredients : White sauce, 
"fowl stock, butter. 

Put three-quarters of a 
pint of white sauce into a 
saucepan, and when it is nearly 
boiling add half a cup of 
concentrated fowl stock. Re- 
duce until the sauce is quite 
thick, and when about to 
serve pass it through a tamis 
into a bain-marie and add two 
tablespoonsful of cream. 

No. 17. Pasta Marinata 

(For masking Italian Frys) 

Ingredients: Semolinaflour, 
eggs, salt, butter (or olive oil), 
vinegar, water. 

Mix the following ingre- 

dients well together : Five 
ounces of semolina flour, the 
yolks of two eggs, a little salt, 
and two ounces of melted 
butter. Add a glass of water 
so as to form a liquid sub- 
stance. At the last add the 
whites of two eggs beaten up 
to a snow. This will make a 
good paste for masking meat, 
fish, vegetables, or sweets 
which are to be fried in the 
Italian manner, but if for 
meat or vegetables add a few 
drops of vinegar or a little 
lemon juice. 

No. 18. White Villeroy 

Ingredients : Butter, flour, 
eggs, cream, nutmeg, white 

Make a light-coloured roux 
by frying two ounces of 
butter and two ounces of 
flour, stir in some whfte stock 
and keep it very smooth. Let 
it boil, and add the yolks of 
three eggs, mixed with two 
tablespoonsful of cream and 
a pinch of nutmeg. Pass it 
through a sieve and use for 
masking cutlets, fish, &c. 


No. 19. Clear Soup 

Ingredients : Stock meat, 
water, a bunch of herbs 
(thyme, parsley, chervil, bay 
leaf, basil, marjoram), three 
carrots, three turnips, three 
onions, three cloves stuck in 
the onions, onejblade of mace. 

Cut up three pounds of 
stock meat small and put it in 
a stock pot with two quarts of 
cold water, three carrots, and 
three turnips cut up, three 
onions with a clove stuck in 
each one, a bunch of herbs and 
a blade of mace. Let it come 
to the boil and then draw it 
off, at once skim off all the 
scum, and keep it gently 
simmering, and occasionally 
add two or three tablespoons- 
ful of cold water. Let it sim- 
mer all day, and then strain 
it through a fine cloth. 

Some of the liquor in which 
a calf's head has been cooked, 
or even a calf's foot, will 
greatly improve a clear soup. 

The stock should never be 
allowed to boil as long as the 

meat and vegetables are in 
the stock pot. 

No. 20. Zuppa Prima- 
verile (Spring Soup) 

Ingredients : Clear soup, 

Any fresh spring vegetables 
will do for this soup, but they 
must all be cooked separately 
and put into the soup at the 
last minute. -It is best made 
with fresh peas, asparagus tips, 
and a few strips of tarragon. 

No. 21. Soup alia 

Ingredients : Clear soup, 
fowl forcemeat, Bdchamel (No. 
3), peas, lobster butter, eggs, 

Make a firm forcemeat of 
fowl and divide it into three 
parts, to the first add two 
spoonsful of cream Bechamel, 
to the second four spoonsful 
of puree of green peas, to the 
third two spoonsful of lobster 
butter and the volk of an egg; 




thus you will have the Italian 
colours — red, white, and green. 
Butter a pie dish and make 
little quenelles of the force- 
meat. Just before serving 
boil them for four minutes in 
boiling stock, take them out 
carefully and put them in a 
warm soup tureen with two 
spoonsful of cooked green 
peas and pour a very fresh 
clear soup over them. Hand 
little croutons fried in lobster 
butter separately. 

No. 22. Tuscan Soup 

Ingredients : Stock, eggs. 

Whip up three or four 
eggs, gradually add good 
stock to them, and keep on 
whisking them up until they 
begin to curdle. Keep the 
soup hot in a bain-marie. 

No. 23. Venetian Soup 

Ingredients : Clear soup, 
butter, flour, Parmesan, eggs. 

Make a roux by frying two 
ounces of butter and two 
ounces of flour, add an ounce 
of grated cheese and half a 
cup of good stock. Mix up 
well so as to form a paste, 
and then take it off the fire 
and add the yolks , of four 
eggs, mix again and form the 

paste into little quenelles. 
Boil these in a little soup, 
strain off, put them into the 
tureen and pour a good clear 
soup over them. 

No. 24. Roman Soup 

Ingredients : Stock, butter, 
eggs, salt, crumb of bread, 
parsley, nutmeg, flour, Par- 

Mix three and a half ounces 
of butter with two eggs and 
four ounces of crumb of bread 
soaked in stock, a little 
chopped parsley, salt, and a 
pinch of nutmeg. Reduce 
this and add two tablespoons- 
ful of flour and one of grated 
Parmesan. Form this into 
little quenelles and boil them 
in stock for a few minutes, 
put them into a tureen and 
pour a good clear soup over 

No. 25. Soup alia 

Ingredients : Clear soup, 
savoury custard. 

Make a savoury custard and 
divide it into three parts, one 
to be left white, another 
coloured red" with tomato, and 
the third green with spinach. 
Put a layer of each in a 


buttered saucepan and cook 
for about ten minutes, cut 
it into dice, so that you have 
the three Italian colour? (red, 
white, and green) together, 
then put the custard into a 
soup tureen and pbur a good 
clear soup over it. 

No. 26. Soup alia 

Ingredients: Stock, spinach, 
butter, salt, eggs, Parmesan, 
nutmeg, croutons. 

Wash one pound of spinach 
in five or six waters, then 
chop it very fine and mix it 
with three ounces of butter, 
salt it and warm it up. 
Then let it get cold, pass' 
through a hair sieve, and add 
two eggs, a tablespoonful of 
grated Parmesan, and very 
little nutmeg. Add this to 
some boiling stock in a copper 
saucepan, put on the lid, and 
on the top put some hot 
coals so that the eggs may 
curdle and help to thicken 
the soup. Serve with fried 

- No. 27. Crotopb Soup 

Ingredients : Clear soup, 
veal, ham, eggs, salt, pepper, 
nutmeg, rolls. 

Pound half a pound of lean 

veal in a mortar, then add 
three ounces of cooked ham 
with some fat in it, the yolk 
of an egg, salt, pepper, and 
very little nutmeg. Pass 
through a sieve, cut some 
small French rolls into slices, 
spread them with the above 
mixture, and colour them 
in the oven. Then cut 
them in halves or quarters, 
put them into a tureen, and 
just before serving pour a 
very good clear soup over 

No. 28. Soup all' Impera- 

Ingredients : Breast of fowl, 
eggs, salt, pepper, ground rice, 
nutmeg, clear stock. 

Pound the breast of a fowl 
in a mortar, and add to it a 
teaspoonful^ of ground rice, 
the yolk of an egg, salt, 
pepper, and a pinch of nut- 
meg. Pass this through a 
sieve, form quenelles with it, 
and pour a good clear soup 
over them. 

No. 29. Neapolitan Soup 

Ingredients : Fowl, potato 
flour, eggs, Bechamel sauce, 
peas, asparagus, spinach, clear 



Mix a quarter pound of 
forcemeat of fowl with a 
tablespoonful of potato flour K _ 
a tablespoonful of Bechamel 
sauce (No. 3), and the yolk 
of an egg; put this into a 
tube about the size round 
of an ordinary macaroni; 
twenty minutes before serving 
squirt the forcemeat into a 
saucepan with boiling stock, 
and nip off the forcemeat 
as it comes through the 
pipe into pieces about ■ an 
inch and a half long. Let 
it simmer, and add boiled 
peas and asparagus tips. If 
you like to have the fowl 
macaroni white and green, 
you can colour half the force- 
meat with a spoonful of 
spinach colouring. Serve in 
a good clear soup. 

No. 30. Soup with Risotto 

Ingredients : Risotto (No. 
189), eggs, bread crumbs, 
clear or brown soup. 

If you have some good 
risotto left, you can use it up 
by making it into little balls 
the size of small nuts. Egg 
and bread crumb and fry 
them in butter ; dry them and 
put them into a soup tureen 
with hot soup. The soup 
may be either clear or brown. 

No. 31. Soup alia 

Ingredients: White stock, 
butter, onions, carrot, celery, 
tomato, cauliflower, fat bacon, 
parsley, sage, Parmesan, salt, 

Chop up half an onion, half 
a carrot, half a stick of celery, 
a small bit of fat bacon, and 
fry them-4n two ounces of 
butter. Then cover them 
with good white stock, boil for 
a few minutes, pass through 
a sieve, and add two table- 
spoonsful of tomato puree. 
Then blanch half a cauli- 
flower in salted water, let it 
get cold, drain all the water 
out of it, and break it up into 
little bunches and put them 
into a stock pot with the 
stock, a small leaf of dried 
sage, crumbled -up, and a 
little chopped parsley, and let 
it all boil; add a pinch of 
grated cheese and some pep- 
per. Serve with grated Par- 
mesan handed separately. 

No. 32. Soup alia Maria 

Ingredients: White stock, 
eggs, butter, peas, white beans, 
carrot, onion, leeks, celery, 
cream croutons. 



Soak one pound of white 
beans for twelve hours, then 
put them into a stock pot with 
a little salt, butter, and water, 
add a carrot, an onion, two 
leeks, and a stick of celery, 
and simmer until the veget- 
ables are well cooked; then 
take out all the fresh veget- 
ables, drain the beans and 
pass them through a sieve, but 
first dilute them with good 
stock. Put this puree into a 
stock, pot with good white 
stock, and when it has boiled 
keep it hot in a bain-marie 
until you are about to serve ; 
then mix the yolk of three 
eggs in a cup of cream, and 
add this to the soup. Pour 
the soup into a warm tureen, 
add some boiled green peas, 
and serve with fried croutons 
handed separately. 

No. 33. Zuppa d' Erbe 
(Lettuce Soup) 

Ingredients : Stock, sorrel, 
endive, lettuce, chervil, celery, 
carrot, onion, French roll, 
Parmesan cheese. 

Boil the- following veget- 
ables and herbs in very good 
stock for an hour : Two small 
bunches of sorrel, a bunch of 
endive, a lettuce, a small 
bunch of chervil, a stick of 
celery, a carrot and an onion, 
all well washed and cut up. 
Then put some slices of 
toasted French roll into a 
tureen , and pour the above 
soup over them. Serve with 
grated Parmesan handed 

No. 34. Zuppa Regina di 
Riso (Queen's Soup) 

Ingredients : Fowl stock, 
ground rice, milk, butter. 

Put a tablespoonful of 
ground^ rice into a saucepan 
and gradually add half a pint 
of milk, boil it gently for 
twelve minutes in a bain- 
marie, but stir the whole time, 
so as to get it very smooth. 
Just before serving add an 
ounce of butter, pass it, 
through a sieve, and mix it 
with good fowl stock. 


Minestra is a thick broth, very much like hotch-potch, only 
thicker. In Italy it is often served at the beginning of dinner 
instead of soup ; it also makes an excellent lunch dish. Two 
or three tablespoonsful of No. 35 will be found a great im- 
provement to any of these minestre. 

No. 35. A Condiment for 
Seasoning Minestre, &c. 

Ingredients : Onions, 
celery, carrots, butter, salt, 
stock, tomatoes, mushrooms. 

Cut up an onion, a stick of 
celery, and a carrot ; fry them 
in butter and salt ; add a few 
bits of cooked ham and veal 
cut up, two mushrooms, and 
the pulp of a tomato. Cook 
for a quarter of an hour, and 
add a little stock occasionally 
to keep it moist. Pass through 
a sieve, and use for seasoning 
minestre, macaroni, rice, &c. 
It should be added when the 
dish is nearly cooked. 

No. 36. Minestra alia 

Ingredients : Rice, butter, 
stock, vegetables. 

All sorts of vegetables will 
serve for this dish. Blanch 
them in boiling salted water, 
then drain and fry them in 
butter. Add plenty of good 
stock, and put them on a slow 
fire. Boil four ounces of rice 
in stock, and when it is well 
done add the stock with the 
vegetables. Season with two 
or three spoonsful of No. 35, 
and serve with grated cheese 
handed separately. 

No. 37. Minestra of Rice 
and Turnips 

Ingredients: Rice, turnips, 
butter, gravy, tomatoes. 

Cut three or four young 
turnips into slices and put 
them on a dish, strew a little 
salt over them, cover them 
with another dish, and let 




them stand for about two 
hours until the water has run 
out of them. Then drain 
the slices, put them in a 
frying-pan and fry them 
slightly in butter. Add some 
good gravy and mashed -up 
tomatoes, and after having 
cooked this for a few minutes 
pour it into good boiling 
stock. Add three ounces of 
well-washed rice, and boil for 

; Minestra loses its flavour 
if it is boiled too long. In 
Lombardy, however, rice, 
macaroni, &c, are rarely 
boiled enough for English 

No. 38. Minestra alia 

Ingredients : Rice, an- 
chovies, butter, stock, and 

Scale an anchovy, pound 
it, and fry it in butter to- 
gether with a small onion cut 
across, and four ounces of 
boiled rice. Add a little salt, 
and when the rice is a golden 
brown, take out the onion 
and gradually add some 
good stock until the dish is 
of the consistency of rice 

No. 39. Minestra of 

Ingredients : Stock, semo- 
lina, Parmesan. 

Put as much stock as you 
require into a saucepan, and 
when it begins to boil add 
semolina very gradually, and 
stir to keep it from getting 
lumpy. Cook it until the 
semolina is soft, and serve 
with grated Parmesan handed 
separately. To one quart of 
soup use three ounces of semo- 

No. 40. Minestrone alia 

Ingredients : Rice or ma- 
caroni, ham, bacon, stock, 
all sorts of vegetables. 

Minestrone is a favourite 
dish in Lombardy when vege- 
tables are plentiful. Boil all 
sorts of vegetables in stock, 
and add bits of bacon, ham, 
onions braized in butter, 
chopped parsley, a clove of 
garlic with two cuts, and rice 
or macaroni. Put in those 
vegetables first which require 
most cooking, and do not 
make the broth too thin. 
Leave the garlic in for a quar- 
ter of an hour only. 



No, 41. Minestra of Rice 
and Cabbage 

Ingredients: Rice, cabbage, 
stock, ham, tomato sauce. 

Cut, off the stalk and all 
the hard outside leaves of a 
cabbage, wash it and cut it 
up, but not too small, then 
drain and cook it in good 
stock and add two ounces of 
boiled rice. This minestra 
is improved by adding a 
little chopped ham and 

a few spoonsful of tomato 

No. 42. Minestra of Rice 
and Celery 

Ingredients : Celery, rice, 

Cut up a head of celery 
and remove all the green 
parts, then boil it in good 
stock and add two ounces of 
rice, and boil till it is well 


No. 43. Anguilla alia 
Milanese (Eels) 

Ingredients : Eels, butter, 
flour, stock, bay leaves, salt, 
pepper, Chablts, a macedoine 
of vegetables. 

Cut up a big eel and fry 
it in two ounces of butter, 
and when it is a good colour 
add a tablespoonful of flour, 
about half a pint of stock, a 
glass of Chablis, a bay leaf, 
pepper, and salt, and boil till 
it is well cooked. In the 
meantime boil separately all 
sorts of vegetables, such as 
carrots, cauliflower, celery, 
beans, tomatoes, &c. Take 
out the pieces of eel, but keep 
them hot, whilst you pass the 
liquor, which forms the sauce 
through a sieve and add the 
vegetables to this. Let them 
boil a little longer una arrange 
them in a dish; place the 
pieces of eel on them and 
cover with the sauce. It is 
most, important that the eels 
should be served very hot. 

Any sort of fish will do as 
well for this dish. 

No. 44. Filletti di Pesce 
alia Villeroy (Fillets 
of Fish) 

Ingredients : Fish, flour, 
butter, Villeroy. 

Any sort of fish will do, 
turbot, sole, trout, &c. Cut 
it into fillets, flour them over 
and cook them in butter in a 
covered stewpan; then make 
a Villeroy (No. 18), dip the 
fillets into it and fry them in 
clarified butter. 

No. 45. Astachi all' 
Italiana (Lobster) 

Ingredients: Lobsters, 
Velute sauce, Marsala, butter, 
forcemeat of fish, olives, 
anchovy batter, button mush- 
rooms, truffles, lemon, cray- 
fish, Italian sauce. 

Two boiled lobsters are 
necessary. Cut all the flesh of 
one of the lobsters into fillets 



and put them into a saucepan 
with half a cup of Velut£ 
sauce (No. 2) and half a glass 
of Marsala, and boil for a few 
minutes. Put a crouton of 
fried bread on an oval dish 
and cover it with a forcemeat 
of fish, and on this place the 
whole lobster, cover it with 
buttered paper, and put it in 
a moderate oven just long 
enough to cook the force- 
meat. Then make some 
quenelles of anchovy butter, 
olives, and button mush- 
rooms, mix them with Italian 
sauce (No. 6), and garnish 
the dish with them, and 
round the crodton arrange 
the fillets of lobster with a 
garnish of slices of truffle. 
Add a dessert-spoonful of 
crayfish butter and a good 
squeeze of lemon juice to the 
sauce, and serve. 

No. 46. Baccala alia 
Giardiniera (Cod) 

Ingredients : Cod dr hake, 
carrots, turnips, butter, herbs. 

Boil a piece of cod or hake 
and break it up into flakes, 
then cut up two carrots and a 
turnip ; boil them gently, and 
when they are half boiled 
drain and put them into a 
stewpan with an ounce of 

butter, half a teacup of boil- 
ing water, salt, and herbs. 
When they are well cooked 
add the fish and serve. Fillets 
of lemon soles may also be 
cooked this way. 

No. 47. Triglie alia 
Marinara (Mullet) 

Ingredients: Mullet, salt, 
pepper, onions, parsley, oil, 

Cut a mullet into pieces 
and put it into a stewpan- 
(with the lid on), with salt, 
pepper, a cut-up onion, some 
chopped parsley, half a wine- 
glass of the finest olive oil 
and half a pint of water, and 
in this cook the fish gently. 
Arrange the fillets on a dish, 
■ pour a little of the broth over 
them, and add the onion and 
parsley. Instead of mullet 
you can use cod, hake, 
whiting, lemon sole, &c. 

No. 48. Mullet alia 

Ingredients: Mullet, butter, 
salt, onions, parsley, almonds, 
anchoyies, button mushrooms, 

Cut off the fins and gills 
of a mullet, put it in 
a fireproof dish with two 



ounces of butter and salt. Cut 
up a small bit of onion, a sprig 
of parsley, a few blanched 
almonds, one anchovy, and 
a few button mushrooms, pre- 
viously softened in hot water, 
and put them over the fish 
and bake for twenty minutes. 
Then add two tablespoonsful 
of tomato sauce or puree, and 
when cooked serve. If you 
like, use sole instead of 

No. 49. Mullet alia 

Ingredients : Mullet (or 
sole or turbot), butter, salt, 
half a lemon, Chablis. 

Put the fish in a fireproof 
dish with one and a half ounce 
of butter, salt, a squeeze of 
lemon juice, and half a glass 
of Chablis. Put it on a very 
slow fire and turn the fish 
when necessary. When it is 
cooked serve in the dish. 

No. 50. Whiting alia 

Ingredients : Whiting, 
butter, pepper, salt, bay leaf, 
claret, parsley, onions, garlic, 
capers, vinegar, Espagnole 
sauce, mushrooms, anchovies. 

Put one or two whiting into 
a stewpan with two ounces of 
butter, salt, pepper, two bay 
leaves, and a glass of claret 
or Burgundy ; cook on a hot 
fire and turn the fish when 
necessary. Have ready before- 
hand a remoulade sauce made 
in the following manner: — 
Put in a saucepan i£ ounce 
of butter, half a teaspoonful 
of chopped parsley, half an 
onion, a clove of garlic (with 
one cut), four ' capers, one 
anchovy, all chopped up 
except the garlic. Then 
add three tablespoonsful of 
vinegar and reduce the sauce. 
Add two glasses of Espagnole 
sauce (No. 1) and a little 
good stock; boil it all up 
(take out the garlic and bay 
leaves) and pass through a 
sieve, then pour it over the 
whiting. Boil it all again for 
a few minutes, and before 
serving garnish with a few 
button mushrooms cooked 
separately. The remoulade 
sauce will be much better if 
made some hours before- 

No. 51. Merluzzo in 
Bianco (Cod) 

Ingredients : Cod or whit- 
ing, salt, onions, parsley, 


ii 4 


cloves, turnips, marjoram, 
chervil, milk. 

Boil gently in a big cupful 
of salted water two onions, one 
turnip, a pinch of chopped 
parsley, chervil, and mar- 
joram and four cloves. After 
half an hour pass this through 
a sieve (but first take out the 
cloves), and add an equal 
quantity of milk and a little 
cream, and in this cook the 
fish and serve with the sauce 
over it. 

No. 52. Merluzzo in 
Salamoia (Cod) 

Ingredients : Cod, hake, 
whiting or red mullet, onions, 
parsley, mint, marjoram, tur- 
nips,, mushrooms, chervil, 
cloves, salt, milk, cream, 

Put a saltspoonful of salt, 
two onions, a little parsley, 
marjoram, mint, chervil, a 
turnip, a mushroom, and the 
heads of two cloves into a stew- 
pan and simmer in a cupful 
of milk for half an hour, then 
let all the ingredients settle at 
the bottom, and pass the broth 
through a hair sieve, and add 
to it an equal quantity of milk 
or cream, and in it cook your 
fish on a slow fire. When the 
fish is quite cooked, pour off 

the sauce, but leave a little on 
the fish to keep it warm ; re- 
duce the rest in a bain-marie ; 
stir all the time, so that the 
milk may not curdle. Thicken 
the sauce with the yolk of an 
egg, and when about to serve 
pour it over the fish. 

No. 53. Baccala in 

Istufato (Haddock) 

Ingredients : Haddock or 
lemon sole, carrots, anchovies, 
lemon, pepper, butter, onions, 
flour, white wine, stock. 

Stuff a haddock (or filleted 
lemon sole) with some slices 
of carrot which have been 
masked with a paste made of 
pounded anchovies, very little 
chopped lemon peel, salt and 
pepper. Then fry an onion 
with two cuts across it in 
butter. Take out the onion 
as soon as it has become a 
golden colour, flour the fish 
and put it in the butter, and 
whe"n it has been well fried on 
both sides pour a glass of 
Marsala over it, and when 
it is all absorbed add a cup 
of fowl or veal stock and let 
it simmer for half an hour, 
then skim and reduce the 
sauce, pour it over the fish 
and serve. 



No. 54. Naselli con 
Piselli (Whiting) 

Ingredients: Whiting, 
onions, parsley, peas, toma- 
toes, butter, Parmesan, Bech- 
amel sauce. 

Cut a big whiting into 
two or three pieces and fry 
them slightly in butter, add a 
small bit of onion, a tea- 
spoonful of chopped parsley, 
and fry for a few minutes 
more. Then add some peas 
which have been cooked in 
salted water, three table- 
spoonsful of Bechamel sauce 
(No. 3), and three of tomato 
puree, and cook all together 
on a moderate fire. 

No. 55. Ostriche alia 
Livornese (Oysters) 

Ingredients : Oysters, pars- 
ley, shallot, anchovies, fennel, 
pepper, bread crumbs, cream, 

Detach the oysters from 
their shells and put them 
into china shells with their 
own liquor. Have ready a 
dessert-spoonful of parsley, 
shallot, anchovy and very little 
fennel, add a tablespoonful of 
bread crumbs and a little 
pepper, and mix the whole 
with a little cream. Put some 

of this mixture on each oyster 
and then bake them in a 
moderate fire for a quarter of 
an hour. At the last minute 
add a squeeze of lemon juice 
to each oyster and serve on a 
folded napkin. 

No. 56. Ostriche alia 
Napolitana (Oysters) 

Ingredients : Oysters, pars- 
ley, celery, thyme, pepper, 
garlic, oil, lemon. 

Prepare the oysters as 
above, but rub each shell 
with a little garlic. Put on 
each oyster a mixture made 
of chopped parsley, a little 
thyme, pepper, and bread 
crumbs. Then pour a few 
drops of oil on each shell, 
put them on the gridiron on 
an open fire, grill for a few 
minutes, and add a little lemon 
juice before serving. 

No. 57. Ostriche alia 
Veneziana (Oysters) 

Ingredients : Oysters, but- 
ter, shallots, truffles, lemon 
juice, forcemeat of fish. 

Take several oysters out of 
their shells and cook them in 
butter, a little chopped shallot, 
and their own liquor, add a 
little lemon juice and then put 



in each of the deeper shells a 
layer of forcemeat made of 
fish and chopped truffles, 
then an oyster or two, and 
over this again another layer of 
the forcemeat, cover up with 
the top shell and put them in 
a fish kettle and steam them. 
Then remove the top shell 
and arrange the shells with the 
oysters on a napkin and serve. 

No. 58. Pesci diversi alia 
Casalinga (Fish) 

Ingredients : Any sort of 
fish, celery, parsley, carrots, 
garlic, onion, anchovies,- al- 
monds, capers, mushrooms, 
butter, salt, pepper, flour, 

Chop up a stick of celery, 
a sprig of parsley, a carrot, 
an onion. Pound up an an- 
chovy in brine (well cleaned, 
boned, and scaled), four 
shredded almonds, three 
capers and two mushrooms. 
Put all this into a saucepan 
with one ounce of butter, salt 
and pepper, and fry for a 
few minutes, then add a few 
spoonsful of hot water and a 
tablespoonful of flour and boil 
gently for ten minutes, put 
in the fish and cook it until 
it is done. If you like, you 
may add a little tomato sauce. 

No. 59. Pesce alia Geno- 
vese (Sole or Turbot) 

Ingredients : Fish (sole, 
mullet, or turbot), butter, salt, 
onion, garlic, carrots, celery, 
parsley, nutmeg, pepper, spice, 
mushrooms, tomatoes, flour, 

Try an onion slightly in one 
and a half ounces of butter, 
add a small cut-up carrot, 
half a stick of celery, a sprig 
of parsley, and a salt anchovy 
(scaled), which will dissolve in 
the butter. Into this put the 
fish cut up in pieces, a pinch 
of spice and pepper, and let 
it simmer for a few minutes, 
then add two cut-up mush- 
rooms, a tomato mashed up, 
and a little flour. Mix all 
together, and cook for twenty 

No. 60. Sogliole in 
Ziraino (Sole) 

Ingredients : Sole, onion, 
beetroot, butter, celery, tomato 
sauce or white wine. " 

Cut up a small onion and 
fry it slightly in one ounce of 
butter, then add some slices 
of beetroot (well washed and 
drained), and a little celery 
cut up; to this add fillets of 
sole or haddock, salt and 
pepper. Boil on a moderate 



fire and keep the cover on 
the fish kettle. When the 
beetroot is nearly cooked add 
two tablespoonsful of tomato 
pure'e and boil till all is well 
cooked. Instead of the to- 
mato you may use half a glass 
of Chablis. 

No. 61. Sogliole al 
tegame (Sole) 

Ingredients : Sole (or mul" 
let), butter, anchovies, parsleyi 
garlic, capers, eggs. 

Put an ounce of butter and 
an anchovy in a saucepan 
together with a sole or 
mullet. Fry lightly for a few 
minutes, then strew a little 
pepper and chopped- parsley 
over it, put in a clove of g; die 
with one cut, and cook for 
half an hour, but turn the fish 
over when one side is suffici- 
ently done. A few minutes 
before taking it off the fire 
add three capers and stir in 
the yolk of an egg at the last 
minute. Do not leave the 
garlic in more than five min- 

No. 62. Sogliole alia 
Livornese (Sole) 

Ingredients: Sole, butter, 
garlic, pepper, salt, tomatoes, 

Fillet a sole and put it in 
a saute"-pan with one and a 
half ounces of butter and a 
clove of garlic with one cut 
in it, then sprinkle over it a 
little chopped fennel, salt and 
pepper, and let it cook for a 
few minutes. Turn over the 
fillets when they are suffici- 
ently cooked on one side, take 
out the garlic and cover the 
fish with a pure'e of tomatoes 
at the last. 

No. 63. Sogliole alia 
Veneziana (Sole) 

Ingredients : Sole, an- 
chovies, butter, bacon, onion, 
stock, Chablis, salt, nutmeg, 
parsley, Spanish olives, one 
bay leaf. 

Fillet a sole and interlard 
each piece with a bit of an- 
chovy. Tie up the fillets and 
put them in a saute"-pan with 
two ounces of butter, a slice 
of bacon or ham, and a few 
small slices of onion. Cover 
half over with good stock and 
a glass of Chablis, and add 
salt, a pinch of nutmeg, a 
bunch of parsley, and a bay 
leaf. Cover with buttered 
paper, and cook on a slow 
fire for about an hour. Drain 
the fish, pass the liquor 
through a sieve, reduce it to 



the consistency of a thick 
sauce, and pour it over the 
fish. Garnish each fillet with ' 
a Spanish olive stuffed with 

No. 64. Sogliole alia - 
Parmigiana (Sole) l 

Ingredients : Sole, Par- 
mesan, butter, cream, cayenne. 

Fillet a sole and wipe each 
piece with a clean cloth, then 
place them in a fireproof dish, 
and put a small piece of butter 
on each fillet. Then make a 
good white sauce, and mix it 
with two t'ablespoonsful of 
grated Parmesan and half a 
gill of cream. Cover the fish 
well with the sauce, and bake 
in a moderate oven for twenty 

No. 65. Salmone alia 
Genovese (Salmon) 

Ingredients : Salmon' 
Genoese sauce (No. 5), butter, 

Boil a bit of salmon, drain 
it, take off the skin, and mask 
it with a Genoese sauce, to 
which add a spoonful of the 
water in which the salmon 
has been boiled, and at the 

1 Lemon soles may be used in 
any of the above-named dishes. 

last add a pat of fresh butter 
and a squeeze of lemon juice. 

No. 66. Salmone alia 
Perig6 (Salmon) 

Ingredients : Salmon, force- 
meat of fish, truffles, butter^ 
Madeira, croutons of bread, 
crayfish tails, anchovy butter. 

Cut a bit of salmon into 
well-shaped fillets, and mari- 
nate them in lemon juice 
and a bunch of herbs for 
two hours, wipe them, put 
a layer of forcemeat of fish 
over each, and decorate them 
with slices of truffle. Then 
put them into a well-buttered 
sautd-pan with half a cup of 
stock and a glass of Madeira 
or Marsala, cover with but- 
tered paper, and put them into 
a moderate oven for twenty 
minutes. Arrange the fillets 
in a circle on croutons of 
bread, garnish the centre with 
crayfish tails and with 'truffles 
cut into dice, a quarter of a 
pint of Velute' sauce (No. 2), 
and half a teaspoonful of 
anchovy butter. Glaze the 
fillets and serve. 

No. 67. Salmone alia 
. giardiniera (Salmon) 

Ingredients : Salmon, force- 
meat offish, vegetables, butter, 


ii 9 

Bechamel, and Espagnole 

Prepare the fillets as above 
(No. 66), and put on each a 
layer of white forcemeat of 
fish. Cook a macedoine of 
vegetables separately, and gar- 
nish each fillet with some of* 
it, then cook them in a 
covered stewpan. Put a 
crouton of bread in an entree 
dish and garnish it with 
cooked peas, mixed with 
Bechamel sauce (No. 3), 
stock, and butter. Round 
this place the fillets of fish, 
leaving the centre with the 
peas uncovered. Pour some 
rich Espagnole sauce (No. 1) 
round the fillets and serve. 

No. 68. Salmone alia 
Farnese (Salmon) 

Ingredients : Salmon, oil, 
lemon juice, thyme, salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, mayonnaise 
sauce, lobster butter, gela- 
tine, Velute sauce, olives, 
anchovy butter, white truffles, 
mushrooms in oil, crayfish. 

Boil a piece of salmon, and 
when cold cut it into fillets and 
marinate them for two hours 
in oil, lemon juice, salt, thyme, 
pepper, and nutmeg. Then 
make a good mayonnaise and 
add to it some lobster butter 

mixed with a little dissolved 
leaf gelatine and Velute' sauce 
(No. 2). Wipe the fillets and 
arrange them in a circle on a 
dish, and pour the mayonnaise 
over them. Then decorate 
the border of the dish with 
aspic jelly, and in the centre 
put some stoned Spanish 
olives stuffed with anchovy 
butter, truffles, mushrooms in 
oil, and crayfish tails. 

No. 60. Salmone alia 

Santa Fiorentina 


Ingredients : Salmon, eggs, 
mayonnaise, parsley, flour. 

Marinate a piece of boiled 
salmon for an hour ; take out 
the bone and cut the fish into 
fillets, wipe them, roll them 
in flour and dip them in eggs 
beaten up or in mayonnaise 
sauce, and fry them a good 
colour. Arrange in a circle 
on the dish, garnish with 
fried parsley, and serve with 
Dutch or mayonnaise sauce. 
Any fillets of fish may be 
cooked in this manner. 

No. 70. Salmone alia 
Francesca (Salmon) 

Ingredients : Salmon, but- 
ter, onions, parsley, salt, pep- 
per, nutmeg, stock, Chablis, 



Espagnole sauce (No. i), 
mushrooms, anchovy butter, 

Put a firm piece of salmon in 
a stewpan with one and a half 
ounces of butter, an onion cut 
up, a teaspoonful of chopped 
parsley (blanched), salt, pep- 
per, very little nutmeg, a cup 
of stock, and a glass of Chab- 
lis. Cook for half an hour on 
a hot fire, turn the salmon 
occasionally, and if it gets 
dry, add a cup of Espagnole 
sauce. Let it boil until 
sufficiently cooked, and then 
put it on a dish. Into the 
-sauce put four mushrooms 
cooked in white sauce, half a 
teaspoonful of anchovy butter, 
and a little lemon juice. 
Pour the sauce over the 
salmon and serve. 

No. 71. Fillets of Sal- 
mon in Papiliotte 

Ingredients : Salmon, oil, 
lemon juice, salt, pepper, nut- 
meg, herbs. 

. Cut a piece of salmon into 
fillets, marinate them in oil, 
lemon juice, salt, pepper, 
nutmeg, and herbs for two 
hours. Wipe and put them 
into paper souffle' cases with 
a little oil, butter, and herbs. 
Cook them on a gridiron, and 
serve with a sauce piquante 
made in the following manner: 
Half a pint of rich Espagnole 
sauce (No. 1) and a dessert- 
spoonful of Tomato No. 10 
sauce, warmed up in a bain- 


No. 72. Manzo alia Cer- 
tosina (Fillet of Beef) 

Ingredients: Fillet of beef 
or rump steak, bacon, olive 
oil, salt, nutmeg, anchovies, 
herbs, stock, garlic. 

Put a piece of very tender 
rump steak or fillet of beef 
into a stewpan with two slices 
of fat bacon and three tea- 
spoonsful of the finest olive 
oil ; season with , salt and a 
tiny pinch of nutmeg ; let it 
cook uncovered, and turn 
the meat over occasionally. 
When it is nicely browned 
add an anchovy minced and 
mixed with chopped herbs, 
and a small clove of garlic 
with one cut across it. Then 
cover the whole with good 
stock, put the cover on the 
stewpan, and when it is all 
sufficiently cooked, skim the 
grease off the sauce, pass it 
through a sieve, and pour it 
over the beef. Leave the 
garlic in for five minutes 

No. 73. Stufato alia Fio- 
rentina (Stewed Beef) 

Ingredients : Beef, mut- 
ton, or veal, onions, rose- 
mary, Burgundy, tomatoes, 
stock, potatoes, butter, gar- 

Cut up an onion and three 
leaves of rosemary, fry them 
slightlyin an ounce of butter, 
then add meat (beef, mutton, 
or veal), cut into fair-sized 
pieces, salt it and fry it a little, 
then pour half a glass of Bur- 
gundy over it, and add two 
tablespoonsful of tomato con- 
serve, or better still, fresh 
tomatoes in a puree. Cover 
up the stewpan and cook 
gently, stir occasionally, and 
add some stock if the stew 
gets too dry. If you like to 
add potatoes, cut them up, 
put them in the stewpan an 
hour before serving, and cook 
them with the meat. A 
clove of garlic with one cut 
may be added for five min- 



No. 74. Coscia di Manzo 
al Forno (Rump Steak) 

Ingredients : Rump steak, 
ham, salt, pepper, spice, fat 
bacon, onion, stock, white 

Lard a bit of good rump 
steak with bits of lean ham, and 
season it with salt, pepper, and 
a little spice, slightly brown it 
in butter for a few minutes, 
then cover it with three or 
four slices of fat bacon and 
put it into a stewpan with an 
onion chopped up, a cup of 
good stock, and half a glass 
of white wine ; cook with the 
cover on the stewpan for about 
an hour. You may add a 
clove of garlic for ten minntes. 

No. 75. Polpettine alia 
Salsa Piccante (Beef 

Ingredients : Beef steak, 
butter, onions, stock, sausage 

Cut some thin slices of beef 
steak, and on each place a 
little forcemeat of fowl or veal, 
to which add a little sausage 
meat : roll up the slices of 
beef and cook them with 
butter and onions, and when 
they are well browned pour 
some stock over them, and 
let them absorb it. Serve 

with a tomato sauce (No. 10), 
or sauce piquante made with 
a quarter of a pint of rich 
' Espagnole (No. 1), and a des- 
sert-spoonful of New Century 
sauce (see No. 71, note). 

No. 76. Stufato alia Mil- 
anese (Stewed Beef) 

Ingredients : Rump steak, 
bacon, ham, salt, pepper, cin- 
namon, cloves, butter, onions, 

Beat a piece of rump steak 
to make it tender and lard it 
well, cut up some bits of fat 
bacon and dust them over 
with salt, pepper, and a tiny 
pinch of cinnamon, and put 
them on the steak. Stick 
three cloves into the steak, 
then put it into a stewpan, 
add a little of the fat of the 
beef chopped up, an ounce 
of butter, an onion cut up, 
and some bits of lean ham. 
Put in sufficient stock to cover 
the steak, add a glass of Bur- 
gundy, and stew gently until 
it is cooked. 

No. 77. Manzo Marinato 
<Arrosto (Marinated 

Ingredients: Beef, salt, lard- 
ing bacon, Burgundy, vinegar, 
spices, herbs, flour. ^ 



Beat a piece of rump steak, 
or fillet to make it tender; 
sprinkle it well with salt and 
some chopped herbs.and leave 
it for an hour ; then lard it and 
marinate it as follows : Half 
a pint of red wine (Australian 
Harvest Burgundy is best), 
half a glass of vinegar, a 
pinch of spice, and a bou- 
quet of herbs ; leave it in 
this for twenty-four hours, 
then take it out, drain it well, 
sprinkle it -with flour, and 
roast it for twenty minutes 
before a clear fire, braize it 
till quite tender, then press 
and glaze it. The thin end 
of a sirloin is excellent 
cooked this way. Serve cold. 

No. 78. Manzo con sugo 
di Barbabietole (Fillet 
of Beef) 

Ingredients : Beef, beet- 
root, salt. 

Cut up three raw beetroots, 
put them into an earthen- 
ware pot and cover them with 
water. Keep them in some 
warm place, and allow them 
to ferment for five, six, or 
eight days according to the 
season j the froth at the top 
of the water will indicate the 
necessary fermentation. Then 
take out the pieces of beet- 

root, skim off all the froth, 
and into the fermented liquor 
put a good piece of tender 
rump steak or fillet with some 
salt. Braize for four hours 
and serve. 

No. 79. Manzo in Insa- 
lata (Marinated Beef) 

Ingredients : Beef, oil, salt, 
pepper vinegar, parsley, 
capers, mushrooms, olives, 
vegetables. ■! 

Cook a fillet of beef (or 
the thin end of a sirloin), which 
has been previously marinated 
for two days in oil, salt, 
pepper, vinegar, and chopped 
parsley. When cold press and 
glaze it, garnish it with capers, 
mushrooms preserved in vine- 
gar or gherkins, olives, and 
any kind of vegetables mari- 
nated like the beef. Serve cold. 

No. 80. Filetto di Bue 
con Pistacchi (Fillets of 
Beef with Pistacchios) 

Ingredients : Fillet of beef, 
oil, salt, flour, pistacchio nuts, 

Cut a piece of tender beef 
into little fillets, and put 
them in a stewpan with a 
tablespoonful of olive oil and 
salt. After they have cooked 



for a few minutes, powder 
them with flour, and strew 
over each fillet some chopped 
pistacchio nuts. Add a few 
spoonsful of very good boil- 
ing gravy, and cook for another 

N0.81. Scalopini di'Riso 
(Beef with Risotto) 

Ingredients : Rump steak, 
butter, irice, truffles, tongue, 
stock, mushrooms. 

Slightly stew a bit of rump 
steak with bits of tongue and 
mushrooms ; let it get cold, 
and cut it into scallops. 
Butter a pie dish, and garnish 
the bottom of it with cooked 
tongue and slices of cooked 
truffle, then over this put a 
layer of well-cooked and sea- 
soned risotto (No. 190), then 
a layer of the scallops of' 
beef, and then another layer 
of risotto. Heat in a bain- 
marie, and turn out of the 
pie dish, and serve with a very 
good sauce, poured round it. 

No. 82. Tenerumi alia 
Piemontese (Tendons 
of Veal) 

Ingredients : Tendons of 
veal, fowl forcemeat, truffles, 
risotto (No. 190), a cock's 
comb, tongue. 

Tendons of veal are that 
part of the breast which lies 
near the ribs, and forms an 
opaque gristly substance. 
Partly braize a fine bit of 
this joint, and press it be- 
tween two plates till cold. 
Cut it up into fillets, and on 
each spread a thin layer of 
fowl forcemeat, and decorate 
with stices of truffle. Put the 
fillets into a stewpan, cover 
them with very good stock, 
and boil till the forcemeat and 
truffles are quite cooked. 
Prepare a risotto alt italiana 
(No. 190), put it on a dish 
and decorate it with bits of 
red tongue cut into shapes, 
and in the centre put a whole 
cooked truffle and a white 
cock's comb, both on a silver 
skewer. Place the tendons 
of veal round the dish. Add 
a good Espagnole sauce (No. 
1) and serve. 

If you like, leave out the 
risotto and serve the veal with 
Espagnole sauce mixed with 
cooked peas and chopped 

No. 83. Bragiuole di 
Vitello (Veal Cutlets) 

Ingredients : Veal, salt, 
pepper, butter, bacon, carrots, 
flour, Chablis, water, lemon. 



Cut a bit of veal steak into 
pieces the size of small cut- 
lets, salt and pepper them, 
and put them in a wide low 
stewpan. Add two ounces of 
butter, a cut-up carrot, and 
some bits of bacon also cut 
up. When they are browned, 
add a spoonful of flour, half 
a glass of Chablis, and half a 
glass of water, and cook on a 
slow fire for half an hour, then 
take out the cutlets, reduce 
the sauce, and pass it through 
a sieve. Put it back on the 
fire and add an ounce of 
butter and a good squeeze of 
lemon, and when hot pour it 
over the cutlets. 

No. 84. Costolette alia 
Monza (Veal Cutlets) 

Ingredients: Veal cutlets 
(fowl or turkey cutlets), force- 
meat, truffles, mushrooms, 
tongue, parsley, pasta mari- 
nata (No. 17). 

Cut a few horizontal lines 
along your cutlets, and on 
each put a little veal or fowl 
forcemeat, to which add in 
equal quantities chopped 
truffles, tongue, mushrooms, 
and a little parsley. Over 
this put a thin layer of 
pasta marinata, and fry the 
cutlets on a slow fire. 

No. 85. Vitello alia Pelle- 
grina (Breast of Veal) 

Ingredients : Breast of veal, 
butter, onions, sugar, stock, 
red wine, mushrooms, bacon, 
salt, flour, bay leaf. 

Roast a bit of breast of 
veal, then glaze over two 
Spanish onions with butter 
and a little sugar, and when 
they are a good colour pour 
a teacup of stock and a glass 
of Burgundy over them, and 
add a few mushrooms, a bay 
leaf, some salt, and a few bits 
of bacon. When the mush- 
rooms and onions are cooked, 
skim off the fat and thicken 
the sauce with a little flour 
and butter fried together ; 
pour it over the veal and put 
the onions and mushrooms 
round the dish. 

No. 86. Frittura Piccata 

al Marsala (Fillet of 


Ingredients: Veal, butter, 
Marsala, stock, lemon, bacon. 

Cut a tender bit of veal 
steak into small fillets, cut off 
all the fat and stringy parts, 
flour them and fry them in 
butter. When they are slightly 
browned add a glass of Mar- 
sala and a teacup of good 
stock, and fry on a very hot 



fire, so that the fillets may re- 
main tender. Take them off 
the fire, put a little roll of fried 
bacon on each, add a squeeze 
of lemon juice, and serve. 

No. 87. Polpettine Distese 
(Veal Olives) 

Ingredients : Veal steak, 
butter, bread, eggs, pis- 
tacchio nuts,, spice, parsley. 

Cut some slices of veal 
steak very thin as for veal 
olives, and spread them out 
in a well-buttered stewpan. 
On each slice of veal put half 
a spoonful of the following 
mixture : Pound some crumb 
of bread and mix it with a 
whole egg ; add a little salt, 
some pistacchio nuts, herbs, 
and parsley chopped up, and 
a little butter. Roll up each 
slice of veal, cover with a 
sheet of buttered paper, put 
the cover on the stewpan and 
cook for three-quarters of an 
hour in two ounces of butter 
on a slow fire. Thicken the 
sauce with a dessert-spoonful of 
flour and butter fried together. 

No. 88. Coste di Vitello 

Imboracciate (Ribs of 


Ingredients: Ribs of veal, 
butter, eggs, Parmesan, bread 
crumbs, parsley. 

Cut all the sinews from a 
piece of neck or ribs of veal, 
cover the meat with plenty of 
butter and. half cook it on a 
slow fire, then let it get cold. 
When cold^egg it over and 
roll it in bread crumbs mixed 
with a tablespoonful of grated 
Parmesan ; fry in butter and 
serve with a garnish of fried 
parsley and a rich sauce. A 
dessert-spoonful of New Cen- 
tury sauce mixed with quarter 
of a pint of good thick stock 
makes a good sauce. (See 
No. 226.) 

No. 89. Costolette di 

Montone alia Nizzarda 

(Mutton Cutlets) 

Ingredients : Mutton cut- 
lets, butter, olives, mush- 
rooms, cucumbers. 

Trim as many cutlets as 
you require, and marinate 
them in vinegar, herbs, and 
spice for two hours. Before 
cooking wipe them well and 
then sautez them in clarified 
butter, and when they are 
well coloured on both sides 
and resist the pressure of the 
finger, drain off the butter 
and pour four tablespoonsful 
of Espagnole sauce (No. 1) 
with a teaspoonful of vine- 
gar and six bruised pepper- 



corns over them. Arrange 
them on a dish, putting be- 
tween each cutlet a crouton of 
fried bread, and garnish with 
olives stuffed with chopped 
mushrooms and with slices of 
fried cucumber. 

No. 90. Petto di Castrato 

all' Italiana (Breast of 


Ingredients: Breast of mut- 
ton, veal, forcemeat, eggs, 
herbs, spice, Parmesan. 

Stuff a breast of mutton 
with veal forcemeat mixed 
with two eggs beaten up, 
herbs, a little spice, and a 
tablespoonful of grated Par- 
mesan, braize it in stock with 
a bunch of herbs and two 
onions. Serve with Italian 
sauce (No. 6). 

No. 91. Petto di Castrato 
alia Salsa piccante 
(Breast of Mutton) 

Ingredients : Same as No. 

When the breast of mutton 
has been stuffed and cooked 
as above, let it get cold and 
then cut it into fillets, flour 
them over, fry in butter, and 
serve with tomato sauce 
piquante (No. 10), or one 

dessert - spoonful of New 
Century sauce in a quarter 
pint of good stock or gravy. 

No. 92. Tenerumi 

d' Agnello alia Villeroy 

(Tendons of Lamb) 

Ingredients : Tendons of 
lamb, eggs, bread crumbs, 
truffles, butter, stock, Villeroy 

Slightly cook the tendons 
(the part of the breast near 
the ribs) of lamb, press them 
between two dishes till cold, 
then cut into a good shape 
and dip them into a Villeroy 
sauce (No. 1 8) egg and bread- 
crumb, and sautez them in 
butter. When about to serve, 
put them in a dish with very 
good clear gravy. A tea- 
spoonful of chopped mint and 
a tablespoonful of chopped 
truffles mixed with the bread 
crumbs will be a great im- 

No. 93. Tenerumi 

d' Agnello alia Veneziana 

(Tendons of Lamb) 

Ingredients : Tendons of 
lamb, butter, parsley, onions, 

Fry the tendons of lamb 
in butter together with a tea- 
spoonful of chopped parsley 



and an onion, 
good gravy. 

Serve with a 

No. 94. Costolette 

d' Agnello alia Costanza 

(Lamb Cutlets) 

Ingredients : Lamb cutlets, 
butter, stock, cocks' combs, 
fowl's liver, mushrooms. 

Fry as many lambs' cutlets 

as you require very sharply in 
butter, drain off the butter 
and replace it with some very 
good stock or gravy. Make a 
ragout of cocks' combs, bits of 
fowl's liver and mushrooms 
all cut up j add a white sauce 
with half a gill of cream mixed 
with it, and with this mask the 
cutlets, and sautez them for 
fifteen minutes. 


No. 95. Timballo alia 


Ingredients : Cold fowl» 
game, or sweetbread, butter, 
lard, flour, Parmesan, truffles, 
» macaroni, onions, cream. 

Make a light paste of two 
ounces of butter, two of lard, 
and half a pound of flour, and 
put it in the larder for two 
hours. In the meantime boil a 
little macaroni and let it get 
cold, then line a plain mould 
with the paste, and fill it with 
bits of cut-up fowl, or game, or 
sweetbread, bits of truffle cut 
in small dice, grated Parmesan, 
and a little chopped onion. 
Put these ingredients in alter- 
nately, and after each layer 
add enough cream to moisten. 
Fill the mould quite full, then 
roll out a thin paste for the 
top and press it well together 
at the edges to keep the cream 
from boiling out. Bake it in 
a moderate oven for an hour 

and a half, turn it out of the 
mould, and serve with a rich 
brown sauce. Decorate the 
top with bits of red tongue 
and truffles cut into shapes 
or with a little chopped pis- 
tacchio nut. 

No. 96. Timballo alia 

Ingredients: Macaroni, 
fowl or game, eggs, stock, 
Velut£ sauce (No. 2), tongue, 
butter, truffles. 

Butter a smooth mould, 
then boil some macaroni, but 
take care that it is in long 
pieces. When cold, take 'the 
longest bits and line the 
bottom of the mould, making 
the macaroni go in circles ; 
and when you come to the 
end of one piece, join on the 
next as closely as possible 
until the whole mould is lined ; 
paint it over now and then 
with white of egg beaten up ; 



then iriask. the whole inside 
with a thin layer of forcemeat 
of fowl, which should also be 
put on with white of egg to 
make it adhere; then cut up 
the bits of macaroni which 
remain, warm them up in 
some good fowl stock and 
Velute' sauce much reduced, a 
little melted butter, some bits 
of truffle cut into dice; tongue, 
fowl, or game also cut up in 
pieces. When the mould is 
full, put on another layer of 
forcemeat, steam for an hour, 
then turn out and serve 
with a very good brown 

No. 97. Lingua alia 
Visconti (Tongue) 

Ingredients: Tongue, 
glaze, bread, spinach, white 
grapes, port. 

Soak a smoked tongue in 
fresh water for forty-eight 
hours, then boil it till it is 
tender. Peel off the skin, 
cut the tongue in rather thick 
slices, and glaze them. Pre- 
pare an oval border of fried 
bread, cover it with spinach 
about two inches thick, and 
on this arrange the slices of 
tongue. Fill in the centre of 
the dish with white grapes 
cooked in port or muscat. 

No. 98. Lingua di Manzo 
ai Citriuoli (Tongue 
with Cucumber) 

Ingredients : Ox tongue, 
salt, pepper, nutmeg, parsley, 
bacon, veal, carrots, onions, 
thyme, bay leaves, cloves, 

Gently boil an ox tongue 
until you can peel off the 
skin, then lard it, season it 
with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and 
chopped parsley, and boil it 
with some bits of bacon, ham, 
veal, a carrot, an onion,- two 
bay leaves, thyme and two 
cloves. Pour some good stock 
over it and let it simmer 
gently until it is cooked. Put 
the tongue on a dish and gar- 
nish it with slices of fried 
cucumber. Boil the cucum- 
ber for two minutes before 
you fry it, to take away the 
bitter taste. Serve the tongue 
with a sauce piquante, made 
with one dessert-spoonful of 
New Century sauce to a quar- 
ter pint of good Espagnble 
sauce (No. 1). 

No. 99. Lingue di Cas- 
trato alia Cuciniera 
(Sheep's Tongues) 

Ingredients : Sheep's ton- 
gues, bacon, beef, onions, 



herbs, spice, eggs, butter, 
flour. °- 

Cook three or four sheep's 
tongues in good stock, and 
add some slices of bacon, bits 
of beef, two onions, a bunch 
of herbs, and a pinch of spice. 
Let them get cold, flour them 
and mask them with egg beaten 
up and fry quickly in butter. 
Serve with Italian sauce (No. 

No. 100. LinguediVitello 
all' Italiana (Calves' 

Ingredients : Calves' ton- 
gues, salt, butter, stock, water, 
glaze, potatoes, ham, truffles, 
sauce piquante. 

Rub a good handful of salt 
into two or three calves' 
tongues and leave them for 
twenty-four hours, then wash 
off all the salt and soak them 
in fresh water for two hours. 
Stew them gently till tender, 
take them out, skin and braize 
them in butter and good stock 
for half an hour. Let them get 
cold and cut them into slices 
about half an inch thick; put 
the slices into a buttered sautd- 
pan and cover them with a 
good thick glaze; let them get 
quite hot and then arrange 
them on a border of potatoes 

and garnish each slice with 
round shapes of cooked ham 
and truffle. Fill the centre 
with any vegetables you like ; 
fried cucumber is excellent, 
but if you use it do not forget 
to boil it -for five minutes 
before you fry it to take away 
the bitter taste. Serve with 
a sauce piquante (No. 10, or 
No. 226). 

No. 101. Porcelletto alia 
Corradino (Sucking Pig) 

Ingredients : Sucking pig, 
ham, eggs, Parmesan, truffles, 
mushrooms, garlic, bay leaves, 
coriander seeds, pistacchio 
nuts, veal forcemeat, suet, 
bacon, herbs, spice. 

Bone a sucking pig, remove 
all the inside and fill it with 
a stuffing made of veal force- 
meat mixed with a little chop- 
ped suet, ham, bacon, herbs, 
two tablespoonsful of finely 
chopped pistacchio nuts, a 
pinch of spice, six coriander 
seeds, two tablespoonsful of 
grated Parmesan, cuttings 
of truffles and mushrooms 
all bound together with eggs. 
Sew the pig up and braize it 
in a big stewpan with bits of 
bacon, a clove of garlic with 
two cuts, a bunch of herbs, 
and one bay leaf, for half an 



hour. Then pour off the 
gravy, cover the pig with well- 
buttered paper, and finish 
cooking it in the oven.' Gar- 
nish the top with vegetables 
and truffles cut into shapes, 
slices of lemon and sprigs of 
parsley. Serve with a good 
sauce piquante (No. 229). Do 
not leave the garlic in for 
more than ten minutes. 

No. 102. Porcelletto da 
Latte in Galantina 
(Sucking Pig) 

Ingredients: Sucking pig, 
forcemeat of fowl, bacon, 
truffles, pistacchio nuts, ham, 
lemon, veal, bay leaves, salt, 
carrots, onions, shallots, pars- 
ley, stock, Chablis, gravy. 

Bone a sucking pig all 
except its feet, but be careful 
not to cut the skin on its 
back. Lay it out on a 
napkin and line it inside with 
a forcemeat of, fowl and veal 
about an inch thick, over 
this put a layer of bits of 
marinated bacon, slices of 
truffle, pistacchio nuts, cooked 
ham, and some of the flesh 
of the pig, then another layer 
of forcemeat until the pig's 
skin' is fairly filled. Keep its 
shape by sewing it lightly to- 

gether, then rub it all over 
with lemon juice and cover it 
with slices of fat bacon, roll it 
up and stitch it in a pudding- 
cloth. Then put the bones 
and cuttings into a stewpan 
with bits of bacon and veal 
steak cut up, two bay leaves, 
salt, a carrot, an onion, a 
shallot, and a bunch of 
parsley. Into this put the 
pig with a bottle of white 
wine and sufficient stock to 
cover it, and cook on a slow 
fire for three hours. Then 
take it out, and when cold 
take off the pudding-cloth. 
Pass the liquor through a 
hair sieve, and, if necessary, 
add some stock j reduce and 
clarify it. Decorate the dish 
with this jelly and serve cold. 

No. 103. Ateletti alia 

Ingredients : Veal or fowl, 
ox palates, stock, tongue, 
truffles, butter, mushrooms, 

Soak two ox palates in 
salted water for four hours, 
then boil them until the 
rough skin comes off, and 
cook them in good stock for 
six hours, press them between 
two plates and let them get 



cold. Roll some forcemeat 
of veal or fowl in flour, cut 
it into small pieces about the 
size of a cork, boil them in 
salted water, let them get 
cold and cut them into 
circular pieces. Cut the ox 
palates also into circular 
pieces the same size as the 
bits of forcemeat, then thin- 
ner circles of cooked tongue 
and truffles. String these 
pieces alternately on small 
silver skewers. Reduce to half 
its quantity a pint of Velute" 
sauce (No. 2), and add the 
cuttings of the truffles, mush- 
room 1 trimmings, bits of 
sweetbread, and a squeeze of 
lemon juice. Let it get cold 
and then mask the atelets (or 
skewers with the forcemeat, 
&c.) with it, and fry them 
quickly in butter. Fry a 
large oval crouton of bread, 
scoop out the centre and 
fill it with fried slices of 
cucumber and truffles boiled 
in a little Chablis. Stick 
the skewers into the crou- 
ton and pour the sauce 
round it. , 

For a maigre dish use fillets 
of fish, truffles, mushrooms, 
and Bechamel sauce (No. 3). 
The cucumber should be 
boiled for five minutes before 
it is fried. 

No. 104. Ateletti alia 

Ingredients : Veal, sweet- 
bread, calf's brains, ox palates, 
mushrooms, fonds d'arti- 
chauds, cocks' combs, eggs, 
Parmesan, bread crumbs. 

Cook two ox palates' as in 
the last recipe, then take 
equal quantities of veal steak, 
sweetbread, calfs brains, equal 
quantities of mushrooms, 
fonds d'artichauds, and cocks' 
combs. Fry them all in 
butter except the palates, 
but be careful to put the veal 
in first, as it requires longer 
cooking; the brains should 
go in last. Then put all 
these ingredients on a cut- 
ting •'board and add the 
palates (cooked separately); 
cut them all into pieces of 
equal size, either round or 
square, but keep the in- 
gredients separate, and string 
them alternately on silver 
skewers, as in the last recipe. 
Then pound up all the cut- 
tings and add a little crumb 
of bread soaked in stock, the 
yolks of three eggs, the whites 
of two well beaten up, two 
dessert- spoonsful of grated 
Parmesan, salt to taste, and 
chopped truffles. Mix all 
this well together and mask 



the atelets with it; egg and 
bread crumb them and fry in 
"butter. When they are a 
good colour, serve with fried 

No. 105. Testa di Vitello 
alia Sorrentina (Calf's 

Ingredients : Calf's head, 
veal, sweetbread, truffles, 
mushrooms, pistacchio nuts, 
eggs, herbs, spice, stock, 
bacon, ham. 

Boil a half calf's head well, 
and when it is half cold, bone 
it and fill it with a stuffing of 
veal, the calf's brains, sweet- 
bread, truffles, mushrooms, 
pistacchio nuts, the yolks of 
two eggs, herbs, and a little 
' spice. Then stitch it up and 
braize it in good stock, with 
some slices of bacon, ham, 
and a bunch of herbs. Serve 
with brain sauce mixed with 

No. 106. Testa di Vitello 
con Salsa Napoletana 
(Calf's Head) 

Ingredients : Calf's head, 
calf's liver, bacon, suet, 
truffles, almonds, olives, calf's 
brains, capers, spice, coriander 
seeds, herbs, ham, stock. 

Boil half a calf's head, bone 
it and fill it with a stuffing 

made of four ounces of calf's 
liver, well chopped up and 
pounded in a mortar; two 
ounces of bacon, one ounce of 
suet, three truffles, sixalmonds, 
three olives, six coriander 
seeds, six capers, the calf's 
brains, a pinch of spice and a 
teaspoonful of chopped herbs. 
Roll up the head, tie it up 
and put it into a stewpan 
with some bits of bacon, ham, 
and very good stock, and 
stew it slowly. Serve with 
Neapolitan sauce (No. 1 2), or 
with ..tomato sauce piquante 
(No. 10). 

No. 107. Testa di Vitello 
alia Pompadour (Calf's 

Ingredients: Calf's head, 
calf's brains, cream, eggs, 
truffles, cinnamon, stock, 
butter, Parmesan. 

Boil and bone half a calf's 
head and fill it with a stuffing 
made of the calPs brains, 
a gill of cream, the yolks of 
two eggs, two truffles cut up, 
a little chopped ham, and 
a tiny pinch of cinnamon. 
Boil it in good, stock, and 
when it is sufficiently cooked 
take it out and mask it all 
over with a mixture of butter, 
yolk of egg, and a tablespoon- 
ful of grated Parmesan, then 



brown it in the oven and 
serve hot. 

No. 108. Testa di Vitello 
alia Sanseverino (Calf's 

Ingredients: Calf's head, 
sweetbread, fowl's liver, an- 
chovies, herbs, capers, garlic, 
bacon, ham, Malmsey or 

Boil and bone half a calf's 
head, and fill it with a stuff- 
ing made of half a pound of 
sweetbread, a fowl's liver, two 
anchovies, a teaspoonful of 
chopped herbs, a few chopped 
capers, and the calf's brains. 
Roll the head up, stitch it to- 
gether and braize it in half 
a tumbler of Malmsey or Aus- 
tralian Muscat (Burgoyne's), 
half a cup of very good white 
stock, some bits of ham and 
bacon, and a clove of garlic 
with two cuts. Cook it gently 
for four hours and serve it 
with its own sauce. Do not 
leave the garlic in longer than 
ten minutes. 

No. 109. Testa di Vitello 
in Frittata (Calf's 

Ingredients: Calf's head, 
eggs, Parmesan, ham, pepper, 
butter, croutons. 

A good rechauffe of calf's 
head may be made in the 
following manner : — After the 
head has been well boiled in 
good stock, cut it into slices 
and mask these with a mix- 
ture of eggs well beaten up, 
grated Parmesan, pepper, and 
chopped ham. Fry in butter, 
and garnish with fried parsley 
and fried croutons. Serve 
with a sauce made of a quarter 
of a pint of good Bechamel 
(No. 3) and a dessert-spoonful 
of New Century sauce. 

No. no. Zampetti 
(Calves' Feet) 

Ingredients : Calves' or 
pigs' feet, butter, leeks or 
small onions, parsley, salt, 
pepper, stock, tomatoes, eggs, 
cheese, cinnamon. 

Blanch and bone two or 
more calves' or pigs' feet and 
put them into a stewpan with 
butter, leeks, or onions, 
chopped parsley, salt, pepper, 
and a little stock. Let them 
boil till the liquid is some- 
what reduced, then add good 
meat gravy and .two table- 
spoonsful of tomato puree, 
and just before taking the 
stewpan off the fire, add the 
yolks of two eggs beaten 
up, a tablespoonful of grated 



cheese, and a tiny pinch of 
cinnamon. Mix all well to- 
gether and serve very hot. 

No. in. Bodini 

Ingredients: Veal force- 
meat, truffles, sweetbread, 
mushrooms, herbs, flour, pasta 
marinata (No. 17), tongue, 

Make a mixture of truffles, 
tongue, sweetbread, mush- 
rooms, and herbs, all chopped 
up, and add it to a forcemeat 
of veal, the proportions being 
two-thirds veal forcemeat and 
the other ingredients one- 
third. Mix this well and 
form it into little balls about 
the size of a pigeon's egg, 
flour them and mask them all 
over with pasta marinata 
(No. 17). Fry them in but- 
ter over a slow fire, so that 
the balls may be well cooked . 
through, and when they are 
the right colour dry them in a 
napkin and serve very hot. 

These bodini may be made 
with various ingredients ; 
they will be most delicate 
with a forcemeat of fowl 
and bits of brain mixed with 
herbs, truffle, cooked ham, or 
tongue. They are also ex- 
cellent made with fish (sole, 

mullet, turbot, &c), either 
cooked or raw, and marinated 
in lemon, salt, pepper, oil, 
nutmeg, and parsley. 

No. 112. Animelle alia 
Parmegiana (Sweet- 

Ingredients : Sweetbread, 
bread crumbs, Parmesan, 

Blanch as many sweet- 
breads as you require, and 
then roll them in bread crumbs 
mixed with grated iParmesan, 
salt, and pepper; wrap them 
up in buttered grease-proof 
paper and grill them. When 
they are cooked, take off the 
paper, and serve with a good 
sauce in a sauce-boat. 

No. 113. Animelle in 
Cartoccio (Sweetbread) 

Ingredients : Sweetbread, 
butter, herbs, salt, pepper, 
bread crumbs, Parmesan, 
lemons, gravy, tomatoes. 

Blanch a pound of sweet- 
bread cuttings, mix it with two 
ounces of melted butter, 
chopped herbs, salt, and pep- 
per, and put it into paper 
souffle' cases. Then strew 
over each some bread crumbs 
mixed with grated Parmesan, 



put the cases in the oven, and 
when they are browned serve 
either with good gravy and 
lemon juice or with tomato 
sauce (No. 9). 

No. 114. Animelle all' 
Italiana (Sweetbread) 

Ingredients : Sweetbread, 
butter, onions, salt, herbs, 
eggs, glaze, Risotto (No. 190), 
truffles, quenelles of fowl, 
Espagnole sauce, white sauce. 

Blanch as many sweet- 
breads as you require, cut 
them into quarters and sautez 
them in butter with a small 
onion cut up, salt, and a 
bunch of herbs. Then pour 
over them two cups of white 
sauce and cook gently for 
twenty minutes ; take out the 
sweetbreads and put them 
in a stewpan. Reduce the 
sauce, and add to it a mix- 
ture made of the yolks of 
four eggs, one and a half ounce 
of butter and a teaspoonful 
of glaze; pass it through a 
sieve, pour it over the sweet- 
breads, and keep them warm 
in a bain-marie. Have ready 
a good Risotto all' Italiana 
(No. 190), and put it into a 
border mould (but first de- 
corate the inside of the mould 
with slices of truffle), put it 

in a moderate oven, and when , 
it is firm turn it out on a dish. 
Place the sweetbreads on the 
risotto and fill in the centre 
with quenelles of fowl and 
Espagnole sauce (No. 1). 

No. 115. Animelle Lar- 
dellate (Sweetbread) 

Ingredients : Sweetbreads, 
larding, bacon, stock, a mace"- 
doine of vegetables. 

Blanch two sweetbreads, 
lard them, and cook them 
very slowly in good stock. 
Skim the stock and reduce it 
to a glaze to cover the sweet- 
breads. Then cut them into 
three or four pieces and 
arrange them round a dish, 
but see that the larding is well 
glazed over. In the centre of 
the dish place a piece of 
bread in the shape of a cup 
and fill this with a mace'doine 
of vegetables. 

No. 116. Frittura di 
Bottoni e di Animelle 
(Sweetbread and Mush- 

Ingredients : Sweetbread, » 
fresh button mushrooms, 
flour, bread crumbs, salt, 
pepper, parsley, butter, 



Peel some button mush- 
rooms and cut them ir* halves. 
Boil a sweetbread, and cut it 
into pieces about the same 
size as the mushrooms, flour, 
egg, and bread crumb them, 
and fry in butter; then 
serve with a garnish of fried 
parsley. Hand cut lemons 
with this dish. 

No. 117. Cervello in Fili- 
serbe (Calf's Brains) 

Ingredients: Calfs brains, 
stock, butter, parsley, lemon. 

Boil half a calfs brain in 
good stock for ten minutes, 
then drain and pour a little 
melted butter and the juice of 
half a lemon over the brain ; 
add some chopped parsley 
fried-for one minute in butter, 
and serve as hot as possible. 

No. 118. Cervello alia 
Milanese (Calfs Brains) 

Ingredients : Calfs brains> 
eggs, bread crumbs, butter. 

Scald a calfs brain and let 
it get cold. Wipe it on a 
cloth, and get it as dry as 
possible, then cut it into 
pieces about the size of a 
walnut, egg and bread crumb 
them, fry in butter, and strew 
a little salt over them. 

No. 119. Cervello alia 
Villeroy (Calf's Brains) 

Ingredients: Calfs brains, 
eggs, flour, mushrooms, Velute - 

Scald a calfs brain, and 
when cold cut it up and mask 
each piece with a thick sauce 
made of well-reduced Velute" 
(No. 2), mixed with chopped 
cooked mushrooms ; flour 
them over and dip them into 
the yolk of an egg, and fry as 
quickly as possible. 

No; 120. Frittura of Liver 
and Brains 

Ingredients : Calfs liver 
and brains (or lamb's or pig's 
fry), butter, ham, flour, puff 

Cut up half a pound of 
liver in small slices, flour and 
fry them in butter or dripping^ 
together with a calfs or pig's 
or sheep's brain, previously 
scalded and also cut up. 
Serve with bits of fried ham 
and little diamond - shaped 
pieces of puff pastry. 

No. 121. Cervello in Frit- 
tata Montano (Calfs 

Ingredients: Calfs brains, 
stock, cream, eggs, spice, 
Parmesan butter. 



Boil a calf's brain in good 
stock for ten minutes, let it 
get cold, cut it up into little 
balls, and mask each piece 
with a mixture made of half a 
gill of cream, the yolks of two 
eggs, a little spice, a table- 
spoonful of grated Parmesan, 
and the whites of -two eggs 
well beaten up. Fry the balls 
in butter, and serve as hot as 
possible. You may mask and 
cook the calf s brain without 
cutting it up, if you prefer it so. 

No. 122. Marinata di 
Cervello alia Villeroy 
(Calfs Brains) 

Ingredients : Calfs brains, 
stock, Bechamel sauce, eggs, 
butter, lemon, forcemeat of 
fowl, flour. 

Boil a calfs or sheep's 
brain in good stock, wipe it 
well, and cut it up. Reduce 
a pint of Bechamel (No. 3), 
and add to it the yolks of 
three eggs, an ounce of butter, 
and the juice of a lemon. 
When it boils throw in the 
cut-up brain ; let it cool, then 
take out the brain and form 
it into little balls about the 
size of a small walnut. Make 
a forcemeat of fowl, and add 
a dessert-spoonful of flour to 
it, and spread it out very thin 

on : a paste-board, and into 
this wrap the balls of brain, 
each separately. Dip them 
into a pasta marinata (No. 
17), and fry them a golden 

No. 123. Minuta alia Mil- 
anese (Lamb's Sweet- 

Ingredients : Lamb's sweet- 
bread, butter, onions, stock, 
Chablis, salt, lemon, herbs, 
cocks' combs, fowls' livers. 

Cut up equal quantities of 
lamb's sweetbreads, cocks' 
combs, fowls' livers in pieces 
about the size of a filbert, 
flour and fry them slightly in 
butter and a small bit of 
onion, add half a glass of 
Chablis, a cup of good stock, 
and a bunch of herbs. Re- 
duce the sauce, and thicken 
it with a tablespoonful of 
butter and flour fried together. 
Make a border of Risotto all' 
italiana (No. 190), and put the 
sweetbread, &c, together with 
the sauce in the centre. 

No. 124. Animelle al 
Sapor di Targone 
(Lamb's Fry) 

Ingredients : Lamb's fry, 
ham, garlic, larding bacon, 



spice, herbs, butter, flour, 

The lamb's fry should be 
nearly all sweetbread, and 
very little liver. Lard each 
piece with bacon and ham, 
and roll it in chopped herbs 
and a pinch of pounded 
spice. Then dip it in flour 
and braize in good stock, 
to which add three ounces of 
butter, some bits of bacon, 
ham, a bay leaf, herbs, and a 
clove of garlic with two cuts. 
Cook until the fry is well 
glazed over, and serve with 
Tarragon sauce (No. 8). Do 
not leave the garlic in longer 
than ten minutes. 

No. 125. Fritto Misto alia 

Ingredients : Cocks' combs, 
calf's brains, sweetbread, stock, 
truffles, mushrooms, Villeroy, 
eggs, bread crumbs. 

Cook some big cocks' 
combs, bits of calfs brains, 
and sweetbread in good stock, 
then drain them and marinate 
them slightly in lemon juice 
and herbs. Prepare a Ville- 
roy (No. 18), and add to it 
cuttings of sweetbread, brains, 
truffles, mushrooms, &c. 
When it is cold, mask the 
cocks' combs and other in- 

gredients with it, egg and 
bread-crumb them, and fry 
them a golden brown. 

No. 126. Fritto Misto alia 

Ingredients : Sweetbread, 
calfs brains, ox palate, flour, 
eggs, Chablis, salt, herbs, 

Make a thin paste with a 
tablespoonful of flour, the 
yolks of two eggs, two spoons- 
ful of Chablis, and a little 
salt. Mix this up well, and 
if it is too thick add a little 
water. Beat up the whites of 
the two eggs into a snow. 
In the meantime blanch a 
sweetbread, half a calfs brain, 
and a few bits of cooked ox 
palate ; boil them all up with 
a bunch of herbs ; cut them 
into pieces about the size of 
a walnut, and dip them into 
the paste so that each piece 
is well covered, then dip them 
into the beaten-up whites of 
egg, and fry them very quickly 
in butter. This fry is gener- 
ally served with a garnish of 
French beans, which should 
not be cut up, but half boiled, 
then dried, floured over and 
fried together with the other 
ingredients. The ox palates 
should be boiled for at least 



six hours before you use them 
in this dish. 

No. 127. Minuta di Fega- 
tini (Ragout of Fowls' 

Ingredients : Fowls' or 
turkeys' livers, flour, butter, 
parsley, onions, salt, pepper, 
stock, Chablis. 

Cut the livers in half, flour 
them, and fry lightly in butter 
with chopped parsley, very 
little chopped onion, salt and 
pepper, then add a quarter pint 
of boiling stock and half a 
glass of Chablis, and cook 
until the sauce is somewhat 
reduced. You can also cook 
the livers simply in good meat 
gravy, but in this, case they 
should not be floured. Serve 
with a border of macaroni 
(No. 183), or Risotto (No. 
190), or Polenta (No. 187). 

No. 128. Minuta alia Vis- 
conti (Chickens' Livers) 

Ingredients : Fowls' livers, 
eggs, cheese, butter, cream, 
cayenne pepper. 

Braize two fowls' livers in 
butter, then pound them up, 
and mix with a little cream, 
a tablespoonful of grated 
cheese and a dust of cayenne. 

Spread this rather thickly over 
small squares of ,toast, and 
keep them hot whilst you 
make a custard with half an 
ounce of butter, an egg well 
beaten up, and a tablespoon- 
ful of cheese. Stir it over 
the fire till thick and then 
spread it on the hot toast. 
Serve very hot. This makes 
a good savoury. 

No. 129. Croutons alia 

Ingredients: Croutons, 
tongue, sweetbread, truffles, 
fowl or game, Velute" sauce, 
stock/eggs, butter. 

Fry a bit of bread in butter 
till it is a light brown colour, 
then cut it into heart-shaped 
pieces. Prepare a ragout with 
bits of tongue, sweetbread, 
fowl or game, truffles, two or 
three spoonsful of well-reduced 
Velute" sauce (No. 2), and two 
or three of reduced gravy. 
Put a spoonful of the ragout 
in each crouton, and over it 
a layer of fowl forcemeat half 
an inch thick ; trim the edges 
neatly, glaze them with the yolk 
of eggs beaten up, andlputlthem 
in a buttered fire-proof dish 
in the oven for twenty minutes. 
Then glaze them with reduced 
stock and serve hot. 



For a maigre dish use fish 
for the ragout and forcemeat. 


No. 130. Croutons alia 

Ingredients : Bread, fowl 
forcemeat, tongue, truffles, 
herbs, cream, stock, butter, 
flour, eggs. 

Cut a bit of crumb of bread 
into round or square shapes, 
and on each put a spoonfut 
of fowl or rabbit forcemeat, a 
little chopped tongue, and a 
slight flavouring of chopped 

herbs; cover with a slice of 
bread the same shape as the 
underneath piece, put them 
in a buttered fire-proof dish, 
and moisten them well with 
cream, butter, and stock. 
Cook until all the liquor is 
absorbed, but turn them over 
so that both sides may be 
well cooked, then flour and 
dip them into beaten-up eggs ; 
fry them a good colour and 
serve very hot. 

For a maigre dish use force- 
meat of fish or lobster, and 
more cream instead of stock. 

RABBIT, &c. 

No. 131. Soffiato di 
Cappone (Fowl Souffle) 

Ingredients: Fowl, Bech- 
amel, stock, semolina flour, 
potatoes, salt, eggs, butter, 
smoked tongue or ham. 

Prepare a puree of fowl or 
turkey and a small quantity of 
grated tongue or ham, and 
whilst you are pounding the 
meat add some good gravy or 
stock. Then make a Bechamel 
sauce (No. 3) and add two 
table - spoonsful of semolina 
flour, a boiled potato and salt 
to taste, boil it up and add the 
puree of fowl, then let it get 
nearly cold, add yolks of eggs 
and the white beaten up into 
a snow. (For one pint of 
the puree use the yolks of 
three eggs.) Pourjhe whole 
into a buttered souffle" case, 
and half an hour before 
serving put it in a moderate 
oven and serve hot. You 
can use game instead of fowl, 

and serve in little souffle* 

No. 132. Polio alia Fior- 
entina (Chicken) 

Ingredients : Fowl, butter, 
vegetables, rice or macaroni, 
peppercorns, stock, ham, 
tomatoes, bay leaves, onions, 
cloves, Liebig. 

Roll up a fowl in buttered 
paper and put it in the oven 
in a fireproof dish with all 
kinds of vegetables and a few 
peppercorns. Leave it there 
for about two hours, then put 
the fowl and vegetables into 
two quarts of good stock and 
let it simmer for one hour; 
serve on well-boiled rice or 
macaroni and pour the follow- 
ing sauce over it. Sauce : — 
Two pounds tomatoes, one 
big cup of good stock, a 
quarter pound of chopped 
ham, three bay leaves, one 
onion stuck with cloves, one 



teaspoonful of Liebig. Sim- 
mer an hour and a half. 

No. 133. Polio all' Oliva 

Ingredients : Fowl, onions, 
celery, salt, parsley, carrots, 
butter, stock, olives, tomatoes. 

Cut up half an onion, a 
stick of celery, a sprig of 
parsley, a carrot, and cook 
them all in a quarter pound 
of butter. Into this put a 
fowl cut up and let it get 
brown all over, turn when- 
necessary and then baste it 
with boiling stock. Add 
four Spanish olives cut up 
and four others pounded in 
a mortar, eight whole olives 
and three tablespoonsful of 
tomato puree reduced, and 
when the fowl is well cooked 
pour the sauce over it. 

No. 134. Polio alia Ville- 
reccia (Chicken) 

Ingredients : Fowl, butter, 
flour, stock, " bacon, ham, 
mushrooms, onions, cloves, 
eggs, cream, lemons. 

Cut up a fowl into quarters 
and put it into a saucepan 
with three ounces of butter 
and a tablespoonful'of flour. 
Put it on the fire, and when 

it is well browned add half a 
pint of stock, bits of bacon 
and ham, butter, three mush- 
rooms (previously boiled), an 
onion stuck with three cloves. 
When this is cooked skim off 
the grease, pass the sauce 
through a sieve, and add the 
yolks of two eggs mixed with 
two tablespoonsful of cream. 
Lastly, add a squeeze of lemon 
juice to the sauce and pour it 
over the fowl. 

No. 135. Polio alia Cacci- 
atora (Chicken) 

Ingredients : The same as 
No. 134 and tomatoes. 

Cook the fowl exactly as 
above, but add either a puree 
of tomatoes or tomato sauce. 

No. 136. Pollastro alia 
Lorenese (Fowl) 

Ingredients : Fowl, butter, 
parsley, lemon, small onions, 
bread crumbs. 

Cut up a fowl and put it 
into a frying-pan with two 
ounces of butter, one onion 
cut up and a sprig of chopped 
parsley, salt and pepper ; put 
it on the fire and cook it, but 
turn the pieces several times ; 
then take them out and roll 
them whilst hot in bread 



crumbs, and fry them, 
with cut lemons. 


No. 137. Pollastro in Fri- 
cassea al Burro (Fowl) 

Ingredients : Fowl, butter, 
fat bacon, ham, mushrooms, 
truffles, herbs, spice, gravy. 

Cut up a fowl and cook it 
in a fricassee of butter, bacon, 
ham, herbs, mushrooms, truf- 
fles, spice, and good gravy 
or stock. Serve in its own 

No. 138. Pollastro in is- 
tufa di Pomidoro 
(Braised Fowl) 

Ingredients : Fowl, bacon, 
ham, bay leaf, spice, garlic, 
Burgundy, tomatoes. 

Braise a fowl with bits of 
fat bacon, ham, a bay leaf, a 
clove of garlic with one cut 
in it, a pinch of spice, and a 
glass of Burgundy. Only 
leave the garlic in for five 
minutes. When cooked serve 
with tomato sauce (No. 9). 

No. 139. Cappone con 
Riso (Capon with Rice) 

Ingredients : Capon, veal 
forcemeat, fat bacon, stock, 
rice, truffles, mushrooms, 

cocks' combs, kidneys or 
fowls' liver, supreme sauce, 
milk, Chablis. 

Stuff a fine capon with a 
good firm forcemeat made 
of veal, tongue, ham, and 
chopped truffles; cover it 
with larding Bacon ; tie it up 
in buttered paper, and cook 
it in very good white stock. 
In the meantime boil four 
ounces of rice in milk till 
quite stiff, mix in some 
chopped truffles, and make 
ten little timbales of it. Take 
out the capon when it is suffi- 
ciently cooked and place it 
on a dish; garnish it with 
cooked mushrooms, cocks' 
combs, kidneys, or fowls' 
livers, and pour a sauce su- 
preme (No. 16) over it; round 
the dish place the timbales of 
rice, and between each put a 
whole truffle cooked in white 
wine. Serve a sauce supreme 
in a sauce bowl. 

No. 140. Dindo Arrosto 
alia Milanese (Roast 

Ingredients : Turkey, sau- 
sage meat, prunes, chestnuts, 
a pear, butter, Marsala, salt, 
rosemary, bacon, carrot, onion, 
turnip, garlic. 

Blanch for seven or eight 




minutes three prunes, quarter 
of a pound of sausage meat, 
three tablespoonsful of chest- 
nut purge, two small slices of 
bacon, half a cooked pear, 
and sautez them in butter; 
chop up the liver and gizzard 
of the turkey, mix them with 
the other ingredients, and add 
half a glass of Marsala ; use 
this as a stuffing for the tur- 
key, and first braize it for 
three quarters of an hour with 
salt, butter, a blade of rose- 
mary, bits of fat bacon, a 
carrot, a turnip, an onion, 
three cloves, and a clove of 
garlic with a cut ; then roast 
it before a clear fire for about 
twenty minutes ; put it back 
into the sauce till it is ready , 
to serve. Only leave the 
garlic in ten minutes. 

No. 141. Tacchinotto all' 
Istriona (Turkey 

Ingredients: A turkey 
poult, ham, mace, bay leaves, 
lemons, water, salt, onions, 
parsley, celery,carrots,Chablis. 

Truss a turkey poult, and 
cover it all over with slices of 
ham or bacon, put two bay 
leaves and four slices of lemon 
on it, and sprinkle with a 
small pinch of mace, then sew 

it up tight in a dishcloth, and 
stew it in good stock, salt, 
an onion, parsley, a stick of 
celery, a carrot, and a pint 
of Chablis ; cook for an hour, 
take it out of the cloth, and 
pour a good rich sauce over 
it. It is also good cold with 
aspic jelly. 

No. 142. Fagiano alia 
Napoletana (Pheasant) 

Ingredients: Pheasant, 
macaroni, gravy, butter, Par- 
mesan, tomatoes. 

Lard a pheasant, roast it, 
and serve it on a layer of 
macaroni cooked with good 
reduced gravy, two ounces 
of butter, a tablespoonful of 
grated Parmesan, and a purge 
of tomatoes. Serve with 
Neapolitan sauce (No. 12) 
in a sauce bowl. 

No. 143. Fagiano alia 
Perigb (Pheasant) 

Ingredients: Pheasant, 
butter, truffles, larding bacon, 

Make a mixture of three 
tablespoonsful of chopped 
truffles, three ounces of butter 
and a little salt, and with 
this stuff a pheasant. Then 
cover it with slices of fat 



bacon and keep it in a cool 
place till next day. A few 
hours before serving roast 
the pheasant and baste it 
well with melted butter and 
a wine-glass of Madeira or 
Marsala. Make a crouton 
of fried bread the shape of 
your dish, and over this put 
a layer of forcemeat of fowl 
and a number of small fowl 
quenelles; cover them with 
buttered paper, then put the. 
dish in the oven for a few 
minutes so as to settle 
the forcemeat. When the 
pheasant is cooked, place it 
on the crouton and garnish 
it with slices of truffle which 
have been previously cooked 
in Madeira, and serve with a 
Perigord sauce. 

a cup of stock, and a cup of 
Espagnole sauce (No. i), and 
cook gently for ten minutes. 
In the meantime shape and 
blanch six young turnips and 
as many young carrots, put 
them into a stewpan, and 
on the top of them put the 
pieces of wild duck, liver, &c. 
Pass the liquor through a 
sieve and pour it over the 
wild duck, add a bunch of 
parsley and other herbs and 
five little mushrooms cut up, 
and cook on a slow fire for 
half an hour. Skim the 
sauce, pass it through a sieve 
and add a pinch of sugar, i 
Put the pieces of wild duck 
in an entree dish, add the 
vegetables, &c, pour the 
sauce over and serve. 

No. 144. Anitra Selvatica 
(Wild Duck) 

Ingredients : Wild duck, 
butter, fowls' livers, Marsala, 
gravy, turnips, carrots, pars- 
ley, mushrooms. 

Cut a wild duck into 
quarters and put it into a 
stewpan with two fowls' livers 
cut up and fried in butter. 
When the pieces of duck are 
coloured on both sides, pour 
off the butter, and in its 
place pour a glass of Marsala, 

No. 145. Perniciotti alia 
Gastalda (Partridges) 

Ingredients : Partridges, 
cauliflower, bacon, sausage, 
fowls' livers, carrots, onions, 
herbs, stock, gravy, butter, 

Cut a cauliflower into 
quarters, blanch for a few 
minutes, drain, and put it 
into a saucepan with some 
bits of bacon. Let it drain 
on paper till dry, then arrange 
the bits in a circle in a deep 



stewpan, and in the centre 
put a small bit of sausage, 
the livers of the partridges, 
a fowl's liver cut up, a carrot, 
an bnion, and a bunch of 
herbs. Cover about three- 
quarters high with good stock 
and gravy, put butter on the 
top and boil gently for an 
hour; then take out the 
sausage, replace it by two or 
three partridges, and simmer 
for three-quarters of an hour. 
In the meantime cut a sausage 
in thin slices and line a 
mould with it. When the 
birds are cooked, take them 
out, drain and cut them up, 
and fill the mould with al- 
ternate layers of partridge 
and cauliflower, and steam 
for half an hour. Five 
minutes before serving turn 
the mould over on a plate, 
but do not take it off, so as 
to let all the grease drain off. 
Cut up the fowls' and par- 
tridges' livers, make them 
into scallops and glaze them. 
Wipe off all the grease round 
the mould j take it off, garnish 
the dish with the scallops of 
liver and serve hot with an 
Espagnole sauce (No. 1) re- 
duced, and add a glass of 
Madeira or Marsala, and a 
glass of essence of game to it. 
This is an excellent way of 

cooking an old partridge or 

No. 146. Beccaccini alia 
Diplomatica (Snipe) 

Ingredients: Snipe, ham, 
larding bacon, herbs, Mar- 
sala, croutons, truffles, cocks' 
combs, mushrooms, sweet- 
bread, tongue. 

Truss fourteen snipe and 
cook them in a mirepoix made 
with plenty of ham, fat bacon, 
herbs, and a wine glass of 
Marsala. When they are 
cooked pour off the sauce, 
skim off the grease and reduce 
it. Take the two smallest 
snipe and make a forcemeat 
of them by pounding them in 
a mortar with the livers of all 
the snipe, then dilute this 
with reduced Espagnole sauce 
(No. 1) and add it to the first 
sauce. Cut twelve croutons 
of bread just large enough to 
hold a snipe each, and fry 
them in butter. Add some 
chopped herbs and truffles to 
the forcemeat, spread it on the 
croutons, and on each place a 
snipe and cover it with a bit of 
fat bacon and buttered paper. 
Put them in a moderate oven 
for a few minutes, arrange 
them on a dish, and pour 
some of their own sauce over 



them. Garnish the spaces 
between the croutons with 
white cocks' combs, mush- 
rooms, and truffles. The 
truffles should be scooped out 
and filled with a little stuffing 
of sweetbread, tongue, and 
truffles mixed with a little of 
the sauce of the snipe. Serve 
the rest of the sauce in a 

No. 147. Piccioni alia 
minuta (Pigeons) 

Ingredients : Pigeons, 
butter, truffles, herbs, fowls' 
livers, sweetbread, salt, flour, 
stock, Burgundy. 

Prepare two pigeons and 
put them into a stewpan with 
two ounces of butter, two 
truffles cut up, two fowls' 
livers, half-pound of sweet- 
bread cuttings (boiled), a 
bunch of herbs and salt. Let 
them brown a little, then add 
a dessert-spoonful of flour 
mixed with stock, and half a 
glass of Burgundy, and stew 
gently for half an hour. 

No. 148. Piccioni in 
Ripieno (Stuffed Pigeons) 

Ingredients: Pigeons, 
sweetbread, parsley, onions, 
carrots, salt, pepper, bacon, 

stock, Chablis, fowls' livers, 
and gizzards. 

Cut up a sweetbread, a 
fowl's liver and gizzard, an 
onion, a sprig of parsley, and 
add salt and pepper.' Put this 
stuffing into two pigeons, tie 
larding bacon over them, and 
put them into a stewpan with 
a glass of Chablis, a cup of 
stock, an onion, and a carrot. 
When cooked pass the sauce 
through a sieve, skim it, add a 
little more sauce, and pour it 
over the pigeons. 

No. 149. Lepre in istufato 
(Stewed Hare) 

Ingredients : Hare, butter, 
onions, garlic, marjoram, 
celery, ham, salt, Chablis, 
stock, mushrooms, spice, 

Put into a stewpan three 
ounces of butter, an onion cut 
up, a clove of garlic with a 
cut across it, a sprig of 
marjoram, and a little cut-up 
ham. Fry these slightly, put 
the hare cut up into the same 
stewpan, and let it get brown. 
Then pour a glass of Chablis 
and a glass of stock over it ; 
add a little tomato sauce or a 
mashed-up tomato, a pinch 
of spice, and a few mush- 
rooms j take out the garHc 



and let the rest stew gently 
for an hour or more. Keep 
the cover on the stewpan, but 
stir the stew occasionally. 

No. 150. Lepre Agro- 
dolce (Hare) 

Ingredients : Hare, vinegar, 
butter, onion, ham, stock, 
salt, sugar, chocolate, al- 
monds, raisins. 

Cut up a hare and wash 
the pieces in vinegar, then 
cook them in butter, chopped 
onion, some bits of ham, 
stock and a little salt. Half 
fill a wine-glass with sugar, 
and add vinegar until the 
glass is three - quarters full, 
mix the vinegar and sugar well 
together, and when the hare 
is browned all over and 
nearly cooked, pour the vine- 
gar over it and add a dessert- 
spoonful of grated chocolate, 
a few shredded almonds and 
stoned raisins. Mix all well 
together and cook for a few 
minutes more. This is a 
favourite Roman dish. 

No. 151. Coniglio alia 
Provenzale (Rabbit) 

Ingredients : Rabbit, flour, 
butter, stock, Chablis, parsley, 
onion, spice, mushrooms. 

Cut up a rabbit, wipe the 
pieces, flour them over, and 
fry them in butter until they 
are coloured all over. Then 
pour a glass of Chablis over 
them, add some chopped 
parsley, half an onion, three 
mushrooms, salt, and a cup 
of good stock. Cover the 
stewpan and cook on a 
moderate fire for about three- 
quarters of an hour. Should 
the stew get too dry, add a 
spoonful of stock occasionally. 

No. 152. Coniglio arros- 
tito alia Corradino 
(Roast Rabbit) 

Ingredients : Rabbit, pig's 
fry, butter, salt, pepper, fen- 
nel, bay leaf, onions. 

Make a stuffing of pig's fry 
(previously cooked in butter), 
salt, pepper, fennel, an onion, 
all chopped up, and a bay 
leaf. With this stuff a rabbit 
and braize it for half an hour, 
then roast it before a brisk 
fire and baste it well with 
good gravy. If you like, put 
in a clove of garlic with one 
cut whilst it is being braized, 
but only leave it in for five 
minutes. Serve with ham 
sauce (Salsa di Proscuitto, 
No. 7.) A fowl may be 
cooked in this way. 



No. 153. Coniglio in 
salsa Piccante (Rabbit) 

Ingredients : Rabbit, butter> 
flour, celery, parsley, onion, 
carrot, mushrooms, cloves, 
spices, Burgundy, stock, 
capers, anchovies. 

Cut up a rabbit, wipe the 
pieces well on a dishcloth, 
flour them over and put them 
into a frying-pan with two 
ounces of butter and fry for 
about ten minutes. Then 
add half a stick of celery, 
parsley, an onion, half a 
carrot, and three mushrooms, 
all cut up, three cloves, a 

pinch of spice and salt, a 
glass of Burgundy, and the 
same quantity of stock ; cover 
the stewpan and cook for half 
an hour, then put the pieces 
of rabbit into another stew- 
pan and pass the liquor 
through a sieve ; press it well 
with a wooden spoon, so as 
to get as much through as 
possible, pour this over the 
rabbit and add four capers 
and an anchovy in brine 
pounded in a mortar, mix all 
well together, let it simmer 
for a few minutes, then serve 
hot with a garnish of croutons 
fried in butter. 


No. 154. Asparagi alia 
salsa Suprema (Aspar- 

Ingredients : Asparagus, 
butter, nutmeg, salt, supreme 
sauce (No. 16), gravy, lemon, 

Cut some asparagus into 
pieces about an inch long and 
cook them in boiling water 
with salt, then drain and put 
them into a saute* pan with 
one and a half ounce of melted 
butter and sautez for a few 
minutes, but first add salt, a 
pinch of nutmeg, and a dust 
of grated cheese. Pour a 
little supreme sauce over 
them, and at the last add a 
little gravy, one ounce of fresh 
butter, and a squeeze of lemon 

No. 155. Cavoli di Brux- 
elles alia Savoiarda 
(Brussels Sprouts) 

Ingredients: Brussels 
sprouts, butter, pepper, stock, 

Bechamel sauce, Parmesan, 

Take off the outside leaves 
of half a pound of Brussels 
sprouts, wash and boil them 
in salted water. Let them 
get cool, drain, and put them 
in a pie-dish with two ounces 
of fresh butter, a quarter pint 
of very good stock, a little 
pepper, and a dust of grated 
Parrnesan. When they are 
well glazed over, pour off the 
sauce, season with three table- 
spoonsful of boiling Bechamel 
sauce (No. 3), and serve with 
croutons fried in butter. 

No. 156. Barbabietola alia 
Parmigiana (Beetroot) 

Ingredients : Beetroot, 
white sauce, Parmesan, Ched- 

Boil a beetroot till it is 
quite tender, peel it, cut into 
slices, put it in a fireproof dish, 
and cover it with a thick white 
sauce. Strew a little grated 
Parmesan and Cheddar over 



it. Put it in the oven for a 
few minutes, and serve very 
hot in the dish. 

No. 157. Fave alia 
Savoiarda (Beans) 

Ingredients: Beans, stock, 
a bunch of herbs, Bechamel 

Boil one»pound of broad 
beans in salt and water, skin 
and cook them in a saucepan 
with a quarter pint of reduced 
stock and a bunch of herbs. 
Drain them, take out the 
herbs, and season with two 
glasses of Bdchamel sauce 
(No. 3). 

No. 158. Verze alia 
Capuccina (Cabbage) 

Ingredients: Cabbage 
or greens, anchovies, salt, 
butter, parsley, gravy, Par- 

Boil two cabbages in a good 
deal of water, and cut them 
into quarters. Fry two an- 
chovies slightly in butter and 
chopped parsley, add the cab- 
bages, and at the last three 
tablespoonsful of good gravy, 
.two tablespoonsful of grated 
Parmesan, salt and pepper, 
and when cooked, serve. 

No. 159. Cavoli fiori alia 
Lionese (Cauliflower) 

Ingredients : Cauliflower, 
butter, onions, parsley, lemon, 
Espagnole sauce. 

Blanch a cauliflower and 
boil it, but „not too much. 
Cut up a small onion, fry it 
slightly in butter and chopped 
parsley, and when it is well 
coloured, add the cauliflower 
and finish cooking it, then 
take it out, put it in a dish, 
pour a good Espagnole sauce 
(No 4 1) over it, and add a 
squeeze of lemon juice. 

No. 160. Cavoli fiori fritti 

Ingredients : Cauliflower , 
or broccoli, gravy, lemon, salt, 
eggs, butter. 

Break up a broccoli or 
cauliflower into little bunches, 
blanch them, and put them 
on the fire in a saucepan 
with good gravy for a few 
minutes, then marinate them 
with lemon juice and salt, let 
them get cold, egg them over, 
and fry in butter. 

No. 161. Cauliflower alia 

Ingredients : Cauliflower, 
butter, Parmesan, Cheddar, 
Espagnole, stock. 



Boil a cauliflower in salted 
water, then sautez it in butter, 
but be careful not to cook it 
too much. Take it off the 
fire and strew grated Par- 
mesan and Cheddar over it, 
then put in a fire-proof dish 
and add a good; 1 spoonful of 
stock and one of Espagnole 
(No. i), and put it in the 
oven for ten minutes. 

No. 162. Cavoli Fiori 


Ingredients : Cauliflower, 
butter, stock, forcemeat of 
fowl, tongue, truffles, mush- 
rooms, parsley, Espagnole, 

Break up a cauliflower 
into separate little bunches, 
blanch them, and put them 
in -butter, and a quarter 
pint of reduced stock. 
Make a . forcemeat of fowl, 
add bits of tongue, truffles, 
mushrooms, and parsley, all 
cut up small and mixed with 
butter. With this mask the 
pieces of cauliflower, egg and 
breadcrumb them, fry like 
croquettes, and serve with a 
good Espagnole sauce (No. 1). 

No. 163. Sedani alia 
Parmigiana (Celery) 

Ingredients : Celery, stock, 
ham, salt, pepper, Parmesan. 

Cut all the green off a 
head of celery, trim the rest. 
Cut it into pieces about four 
inches long, blanch and 
braize them in good stock, 
ham, salt, and pepper. When 
cooked, drain and arrange 
them on a dish, sprinkle 
with grated Parmesan and 
Cheddar, and add one and a 
half ounce of butter, then put 
them in the oven till they 
have taken a good colour, 
pour a little good gravy over 
them and serve. 

No. 164. Sedani fritti all' 
italiana (Celery) 

Ingredients : Same as No. 
163, eggs, bread crumbs, to- 

Prepare a head of celery as 
above, and cut it up into equal 
pieces. Blanch and braize as 
above, and when cold egg and 
breadcrumb and sautez in 
butter. Serve with tomato 

No. 165. Cetriuoli alia 
Parmigiana (Cucumber) 

Ingredients : Cucumber, 
butter, cheese, gravy, salt, 

Cut a cucumber into slices 
about half an inch thick, boil 



for five minutes in salted 
water, drain in a sieve,' and 
fry slightly in melted butter, 
then strew a little grated 
Parmesan over it, and add a 
good thick gravy, put it into 
the oven for ten minutes to 
brown, and serve as hot as 

No. 166. Cetriuoli alia 
Borghese (Cucumber) 

Ingredients : Cucumber, 
cream, salt, Bechamel sauce, 
butter, Parmesan, cayenne 

Cook a cucumber as in 
No. 165, braize it for five 
minutes, add to it a good rich 
Bechamel (No. 3), mixed with 
cream and grated Parmesan. 
Spread this well over the 
cucumber, and put it into 
the oven for ten minutes, 
keeping the rounds of cucum- 
ber separate, so as to arrange 
them in a circle on a very hot 
dish. Care should be taken 
not to cook the cucumber too 
long, or it will break in pieces, 
and spoil the look of the dish. 


No. 167. Carote al sug- 
hillo (Carrots) 

Ingredients: Carrots, stock, 
salt, butter, sausage, pepper. 

Boil some young carrots 
in stock, slice them up, and 
put them in a stewpan with 
a sausage cut up ; , cook for 
quarter of an hour on a slow 
fire, then stir up the fire, and 
when the carrots and sausage 
are a good colour add a good 
Espagnole sauce (No. i), and 

No. 168. Carote e piselli 
alia panna (Carrots and 

Ingredients : Young carrots, 
peas, cream, salt. 

Half cook equal quantities 
of peas and young carrots 
(the carrots should be cut in 
dice, and will require a little 
longer cooking), then put 
them together in a, stewpan 
with three or four tablespoons- 
ful of cream, and cook till 
quite tender. Serve hot. 

No. 169. Verze alia Certo- 
sina (Cabbage) 

Ingredients : Cabbage, 
butter, salt, leeks or shallots, 
sardines, cheese. 

Any vegetable may be 
cooked in the following simple 
manner : — Boil them well, 
then slightly fry a little bit of 
leek or shallot and a sardine 

i 5 6 


in butter; drain the vegetables, 
put them in the butter, and 
cook gently so that they may 
absorb all the flavour, and at 
the last add a dust of grated 
cheese and a tiny pinch of 

No. 170. Lattughe al sugo 

Ingredients: Lettuce, 
Parmesan, bacon, stock, 
butter, croutons of bread, 

Take off the outside leaves 
of a lettuce, blanch and drain 
them well. Put on each leaf 
a mixture of grated Parmesan, 
salt, little bits of chopped 
bacon or ham, add a little 
good stock, cover over with 
buttered paper, and cook in 
a hot oven for five minutes. 
Then drain off the stock and 
roll up eachleafwith the bacon, 
&c, put them on croutons of 
fried bread and pour some 
good thick gravy over them. 

No. 171. Lattughe farcite 
alia Genovese (Lettuce) 

Ingredients : Lettuce, force- 
meat of fowl or veal, ham, 
Espagnole sauce. 

Prepare a lettuce as above^ 
and spread on each leaf a 

spoonful of forcemeat of fowl 
or veal, add a little cooked 
ham chopped up, roll up 
the leaves, and cook as 
above. Drain them on a 
cloth, arrange them neatly on 
a dish, and pour some good 
Espagnole sauce (No. 1) over 

No. 172. Funghi cappelle 

infarcite (Stuffed 


Ingredients : Mushrooms, 
bread, stock, garlic, parsley, 
salt, Parmesan, butter, eggs, 

Choose a dozen good fresh 
mushrooms, take off the stalks 
and put the tops into a sauce- 
pan with a little butter. See 
that they lie bottom upwards. 
Then cut up and mix together 
half the stalks of the mush- 
rooms, a little bread crumb 
soaked in gravy, the merest 
scrap of garlic and a little 
chopped parsley. Put this 
into a separate saucepan and 
add to it two eggs, half a gill 
of cream, salt, and two table- 
spoonsful of grated Parmesan. 
Mix well, so as to get a smooth 
paste and fill in the cavities 
of the mushrooms with it. 
Then add a little more butter, 
strew some bread crumbs over 



each mushroom, and cook in 
the oven for ten to fifteen 

No. 173. Verdure miste 
(Macedoine of Vege- 

Ingredients : Cauliflower, 
carrots, celery, spinach, butter, 
cream, pepper, Parmesan. 

Boil some carrots, cauli- 
flower, spinach, and celery (all 
cut up) in water. Then put 
them in layers in a buttered 
china mould,and between each 
layer add a little cream, pepper, 
and a little grated Parmesan 
and Cheddar. Fill the mould 
in this manner, and put it in 
the oven for half an hour, so 
that the vegetables may cook 
without adhering to the 
mould. Turn out and serve. 

No. 174. Patate alia 
crema(Potatoes in cream) 

Ingredients : Potatoes, but- 
ter, Parmesan, white stock, 
cream, pepper, salt. 

Boil two pounds of potatoes 
in salted water for a quarter 
of an hour, peel and cut them 
into slices about the size of a 
penny, then arrange them in 
layers in a very deep firepropf 
dish (with a lid), and on each 

layer pour a little melted 
butter, a little good white 
stock and a dust of grated 
Parmesan. Reduce a pint 
and a half of cream to half 
its quantity, add a little 
pepper, and pour it over the 
potatoes. Put the dish in 
the oven for twenty minutes. 
Serve as hot as possible. 

No. 175. Cestelline di 

patate alia giardiniera 


Ingredients: Potatoes, 
white stock, salt, butter, peas, 
asparagus, sprouts, beans, &c. 

Choose some big sound 
potatoes, cut them in half and 
scoop out a little of the centre 
so as to form a cavity, blanch 
them in salted water and cook 
for a quarter of an hour in 
good white stock and a little 
butter. Then fill in the 
cavities with a macedoine of 
cooked vegetables and add a 
little cream to each. 

No. 176. Patate al Pomi- 

doro (Potatoes with 

Tomato Sauce) 

Ingredients : Potatoes, 
butter, salt, tomatoes, lemon, 

Peel three or four raw 



potatoes, cut them in slices 
about the size of a five-shilling 
piece, then put them into a 
stewpan with J:wo ounces of 
melted butter, and cook them 
gently until they are a good 
colour, add salt, drain off the 
butter, then glaze them by 
adding half a glass of good 
stock. Arrange them on a 
dish, pour some good tomato 
sauce over them, and add a 
little butter and a squeeze of 
lemon juice. 

No. 177. Spinaci alia 
Milanese (Spinach) 

Ingredients : Spinach, but- 
ter, Velute sauce, salt, pepper, 
flour, stock. 

Wash three pounds of spin- 
ach at least six times, boil it in 
a pint of water, then mince it 
up very fine, pass it through 
a hair-sieve, and put it in a 
saucepan with one and a half 
ounces of butter, add a cup- 
ful of reduced Velute" sauce 
(No. 2) with cream; salt, and 
pepper, add a dessert-spoon- 
ful of flour and butter mixed, 
and boil until the spinach is 
firm enough to make into a 
shape, garnish with hard- 
boiled eggs cut into quarters, 
and pour a good Espagnole 
sauce (No. 1) round the dish. 

No. 178. Insalata di patate 
(Potato salad) 

Ingredients : New potatoes, 
oil, white vinegar, onions, 
parsley, tarragon, chervil, 
celery, cream, salt, pepper, 
tarragon vinegar, watercress, 
cucumher, truffles. 

Steam as many new pota- 
toes as you require until they 
are well cooked, let them get 
cold, cut them into slices and 
pour three teaspoonsful of 
salad oil and one of white 
vinegar over them. Then rub 
a salad bowl with onion, put 
in a layer of the potato slices, 
and sprinkle with chopped 
parsley, tarragon, chervil, and 
celery, then another layer of 
potatoes until you have used 
all the potatoes ; cover them 
with whipped cream seasoned 
with salt, pepper, and a little 
tarragon vinegar, and garnish 
the top with watercress, a few 
thin slices of truffle cooked in 
white wine, and some slices 
of cooked cucumber. 

No. 179. Insalata alia 
Navarino (Salad) 

Ingredients: Peas, beans, 
onions, potatoes, tarragoa 
chives, parsley, tomatoes, an, 
chovies, oil, vinegar, ham. 



Mix a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley, a teaspoon- 
ful of chopped onion, a tea- 
spoonful of tarragon and chop 
ped chives with half a gill of 
oil and half a gill of vinegar. 
Put this into a salad bowl 
with all sorts of cooked vege- 
tables — peas, haricot beans, 
small onions, and potatoes cut 
up, and mix them well but 
gently, so as not to break the 
vegetables. Then add two or 
three anchovies in oil, and on 
the top place three or four 
ripe tomatoes cut in slices. 
A little cooked smoked ham 
cut in dice added to this salad 
is a great improvement. 

No. 180. Insalata di 
pomidoro (Tomato Salad) 

Ingredients : Tomatoes, 
mayonnaise, shallot, horse- 
radish, gherkin, anchovies, 
fish, cucumber, lettuce, cher- 
vil, tarragon, eggs. 

Mix the following ingredi- 
ents : two anchovies in oil 
boned and minced, a gill of 
mayonnaise sauce, a little 
grated horse-radish, very little 
chopped shallot, a little cold 
salmon or trout, and a small 
gherkin chopped. With this 

mixture stuff some ripe to- 
matoes. Then make a good 
salad of endive or lettuce, a 
teaspoonful of chopped tar- 
ragon and chervil, season it 
with oil, vinegar, salt, and 
pepper(the proportions should 
be three of oil to one of vine- 
gar), put a layer of slices of 
cucumber in the salad, place 
the tomatoes on the top of 
these, and decorate them 
with hard-boiled eggs passed 
through a wire sieve. 

No. 181. Tartufi alia 
Dino (Truffles) 

Ingredients : Truffles, fowl 
forcemeat, champagne. 

Allow one truffle for each 
person, scoop out the inside, 
chop it up fine and mix with 
a good forcemeat of fowl. 
With this fill up the truffles, 
place a thin layer of truffle 
on the top of each, and cook 
them in champagne in a 
stewpan for about half an 
hour. Then take them out, 
make a rich sauce, to which 
add the champagne you have 
used and some of the chopped 
truffle, put the truffles in this 
sauce and keep hot for ten 
minutes. Serve in paper 
souffle' cases. 


No. 182. Macaroni with 

Ingredients : Macaroni, 
tomatoes, butter, onion, basil, 
pepper, salt. 

Fry half an onion slightly 
in butter, and as soon as it 
is coloured add a puree of two 
big cooked tomatoes. Then 
boil quarter of a pound of 
macaroni separately, drain it 
and put it in a deep fire-prodf 
dish, add the tomato puree 
and three tablespoonsful of 
grated Parmesan and Cheddar 
mixed, and cook gently for 
a quarter of an hour before 
serving. This dish may be 
made with vermicelli, spa- 
ghetti, or any other Italian 

No. 183. Macaroni alia 

Ingredients : Macaroni, 
butter, stock, cheese, water, 
salt, nutmeg. 

Cut up a quarter pound of 
macaroni in small pieces and 
put it in boiling salted water. 
When sufficiently cooked, 
drain and put it into a 
saucepan with two ounces of 
butter, add good gravy or 
stock, three tablespoonsful of 
grated Parmesan and Cheddar 
mixed, and a tiny pinch of 
nutmeg. Stir over a brisk 
fire, and serve very hot. 

No. 184. Macaroni al 

Ingredients : Macaroni, 
stock, tomatoes, sausage, 
' cheese. 

Half cook four ounces of 
macaroni, drain it and put it 
in layers in a fireproof dish, 
and gradually add good beef 
gravy, four tablespoonsful .of 
tomato puree, and thin slices 
of sausage. Sprinkle with 
grated Parmesan and Ched- 
dar, and cook for about twenty 



minutes. Before serving pass 
the salamander over the top 
to brown the macaroni. 

No. 185. Macaroni alia 

Ingredients : Macaroni, 
mushrooms, tomatoes, Par- 
mesan, butter, pepper, salt, 

Boil about four ounces of 
macaroni, and stew four or 
five mushrooms in milk with 
pepper and salt. Put a layer 
of the macaroni in a buttered 
fire-proof dish, then a layer of 
tomato purde, then a layer 
of the mushrooms and an- 
other layer of macaroni. Dust 
it all over with grated Par- 
mesan and Cheddar, put it in 
the oven for half an hour, and 
serve very hot. 

No. 186. Tagliarelle and 

Ingredients : Tagliarelle, 
lobster, cheese, butter. 

Boil half a pound of 
tagliarelle, and cut up a 
quarter of a pound of lobster. 
Butter a fire-proof dish, and 
strew it well with grated Par- 
mesan and Cheddar mixed, 
then put in the tagliarelle 
and lobster in layers, and 

between each layer add a little 
butter. Strew grated cheese 
over the top, ptft it in the 
oven for twenty minutes, and 
brown the top with a sala- 

No. 187. Polenta 

Polenta is made of ground 
Indian-corn, and may be used 
either as a separate dish or 
as a garnish for roast meat, 
pigeons, fowl, &c. It is 
made like porridge ; gradually 
drop the meal with one hand 
into boiling stock or water, 
and stir continually with a 
wooden spoon with the other 
hand. In about a quarter of 
an hour it will be quite thick 
and smooth, then add a little 
butter and grated Parmesan, 
and one egg beaten up. Let 
it get cold, then put it in 
layers in a baking-dish, add a 
little butter to each layer, 
sprinkle with plenty of Par- 
mesan, and bake it for about 
an hour in a slow oven. Serve 

No. 188. Polenta 

Ingredients: Polenta, 
butter, cheese, mushrooms, 

1 62 


Prepare a good polenta as 
above, put it in layers in a 
fire-proof dish, and add by 
degrees one and a half ounces 
of melted butter, two cooked 
mushrooms cut up, and two 
tablespoonsful of grated 
cheese. (If you like, you may 
add a good-sized tomato 
mashed up.) Put the dish 
in the oven, and before serv- 
ing brown it over with a sala- 

No. 189. Battuffoli 

Ingredients : Polenta, 
onion, butter, salt, stock, Par- 

Make a somewhat firm 
polenta (No. 187) with half a 
pound of ground maize and a 
pint and a half of salted water, 
add a small onion cut up and 
fried in butter, and stir the 
polenta until it is sufficiently 
cooked. Then take it off the 
fire and arrange it by spoons- 
ful in a large fire-proof dish, 
and give each spoonful the 
shape and size of an egg. 
Place them one against the 
other, and when the first 
layer is done, pour over it 
some very good gravy or stock, 
and plenty of grated Par- 
mesan. Arrange it thus 
layer by layer. Put it into 

the oven for twenty minutes, 
and serve very hot. 

No. 190. Risotto all' 

Ingredients : Rice, an 
onion, butter, stock, tomatoes, 
Fry a small onion slightly 
in butter, then add half a pint 
of very good stock. Boil four 
ounces of rice, but do not 
let it get pulpy, add it to the 
above with three medium-sized 
tomatoes in a puree. Mix it 
all up well, add more stock, 
and two tablespoonsful of 
grated Parmesan and Ched- 
dar mixed, and serve hot. 

No. 191. Risotto alia 

Ingredients : Rice, beef or 
veal, onions, parsley, butter, 
stock, Parmesan, sweetbread 
or sheep's brains. 

Cut up a small onion and 
fry it slightly in butter with 
some chopped parsley, add to 
this a little veal, also chopped 
up, and a little suet. Cook 
for ten minutes and then add 
two ounces of rice to it. Mix 
all with a wooden spoon, and 
after a few minutes begin to 
add boiling stock gradually; 



stir with the spoon, so that 
the rice whilst cooking may 
absorb the stock; when it is 
half cooked add a few spoons- 
ful of good gravy and a 
sweetbread or sheep's brains 
(previously scalded and cut 
up in pieces), and, if you like, 
a little powdered saffron dis- 
solved in a spoonful of stock 
and three tablespoonsful of 
grated Parmesan and Ched- 
dar mixed. Stir well until 
the rice is quite cooked, but 
take care not to get it into 
a pulp. 

No. 192. Risotto alia 

Ingredients : Rice, pork, 
ham, onions, tomatoes, butter, 
stock, vegetables, Parmesan. 

Put a small bit of onion 
and an ounce of butter into a 
saucepan, add half a pound 
of tomatoes cut up and fry 
for a few minutes. Then put 
in some bits of loin of pork 
cut into dice and some bits 
of lean ham. After a time 
add four ounces of rice and 
good stock, and as soon as it 
begins to boil put on the 
cover and put the saucepan 
on a moderate fire. When 
the rice is half cooked add 
any sort of vegetable, by pre- 

ference peas, asparagus cut 
up, beans, and cucumber cut 
up, cook for another quarter 
of an hour, and serve with 
grated Parmesan and Cheddar 
mixed and good gravy. 

No. 193. Risotto alia 

Ingredients : Risotto (No. 
190) eggs, truffles, smoked 
tongue, butter. 

Make a good risotto, and 
when cooked put it into a 
fire-proof dish. When cold 
cut into shapes with a dariole 
mould and fry for a few 
minutes in butter, then turn 
the darioles out, scoop out a 
little of each and fill it with 
eggs beaten up, cover each 
with a slice of truffle and 
garnish with a little chopped 
tongue. Put them in the 
oven for ten minutes. 

No. 194. Risotto alia 


Ingredients : Risotto (No. 
190), game, sauce, butter. 

Make a good risotto, and 
when cooked pour it into a 
fire-proof dish, let it get cold, 
and then cut it out with a 
dariole mould, or else form 
it into little balls about the 



size of a pigeon's egg. Fry 
these in butter and serve with 
a rich game sauce poured 
over them. 

No. 195. Ravioli 

Ingredients: Flour, eggs, 
butter, salt, forcemeat, Par- 
mesan, gravy or stock. 

Make a paste with a quarter 
pound of flour, the yolk of 
two eggs, a little salt and two 
ounces of butter. Knead this 
into a firm smooth paste and 
wrap it up in a damp cloth 
for half an hour, then roll it 
out as thin as possible, 
moisten it with a paste-brush 
dipped in water, and cut it 
into circular pieces about 
three inches in diameter. On 
each piece put about a tea- 
spoonful of forcemeat of fowl, 
game, or fish mixed with a 
little grated Parmesan and the 
yolks of one or two eggs. 
Fold the paste over the force- 
meat and pinch the edges 
together, so as to give them 
the shape of little puffs; let 
them dry in the larder, then 
blanch by boiling them in 
stock for quarter of an hour 
and drain them in a napkin. 
Butter a fire-proof dish, put in 
a layer of the ravioli, powder 
them over with grated Par- 

mesan, then another layer of 
ravioli and more Parmesan. 
Then add enough very good 
gravy to cover them, put the 
dish in the oven for about 
tweity-five minutes, and serve 
in the dish. 

No. 196. Ravioli alia 

Ingredients : Beetroot, eggs, 
Parmesan, milk or cream, 
nutmeg, spices, salt, flour, 

Wash a beetroot and boil 
it, and when it is sufficiently 
cooked throw it into cold 
water for a few minutes, then 
drain it, chop it up and add 
to it four eggs, one ounce of 
grated Parmesan, one ounce 
of grated Cheddar, two and a 
half ounces of boiled cream 
or milk, a small pinch of 
nutmeg and a little salt. Mix 
all well together into a smooth 
firm paste, then roll into balls 
about the size of a walnut, 
flotfr them over well, let them 
dry for half an hour, then 
drop them very carefully one 
by one into boiling stock and 
when they float on the top 
take them out with a per- 
forated ladle, put them in a 
deep dish, dust them over 
with Parmesan and pour good 



meat or game gravy over 

No. 197. Gnocchi alia 


- Ingredients : Semolina, 
butter, Parmesan, eggs, nut- 
meg, milk, cream. 

Boil half a pint of milk in 
a saucepan, then add two 
ounces of butter, four ounces 
of semolina, two tablespoons- 
ful of grated Parmesan, the 
yolks of three eggs, and a 
tiny pinch of nutmeg. Mix 
all well together, then let it 
cool, and spread out the 
paste so that it is about the 
thickness of a finger. Put a 
little butter and grated Par- 
mesan and two tablespoons- 
ful of cream in a fire-proof 
dish, cut out the semolina 
paste with a small dariole 
mould and put it in the dish. 
Dust a little more Parmesan 
over it, put it in the oven for 
five minutes and serve in the 

No. 198. Gnocchi alia 

Ingredients : Potatoes, 
flour, salt, Parmesan and 

Gruyere cheese, butter, milk, 

Boil two or three big pota- 
toes, and pass them through 
a hair sieve, mix in two 
tablespoonsful of flour, an 
egg beaten up, and enough 
milk to form a rather firm 
paste; stir until it is quite 
smooth. Roll it into the 
shape of a German sausage, 
cut it into rounds about three- 
quarters of an inch thick, and 
put it info the larder to dry 
for about half an hour. Then 
drop the gnocchi one by one 
into boiling salted water and 
boil for ten minutes. Take 
them out with a slice, and 
put them in a well-buttered 
fire-proof dish, add butter be- 
tween each layer, and strew 
plenty of grated Parmesan 
and Cheddar over them. Put 
them in the oven for ten 
minutes, brown the top with a 
salamander, and serve very 

No. 199. Frittata di Riso 
(Savoury Rice Pan- 

Ingredients : Rice, milk, 
salt, butter, cinnamon, eggs, 

Boil quarter of a pound of 

1 66 


rice in milk until it is quite soft 
and pulpy, drain off the milk 
and add to the rice an ounce 
of butter,' two tablespoonsful 
of grated Parmesan, and a 
pinch of cinnamon, and when 

it has got rather cold, the 
yolks of four eggs beaten up. 
Mix all well together, and 
with this make a pancake 
with butter in a frying- 


No. 200. Uova ai Tartufi 
(Eggs with Truffles) 

Ingredients : Eggs, butter, 
cream, truffles, Velute" sauce, 

Beat up six eggs, pass them 
through a sieve, and put them 
into a saucepan with two 
ounces of butter and two 
tablespoonsful of cream. Put 
the saucepan in a bain-marie, 
and stir so that the eggs may 
not adhere. Sautez some 
slices of truffle in butter, 
cover them with Velute' sauce 
(No. 2) and a glass of Mar- 
sala, and add them to the 
eggs. Serve very hot with 
fried and glazed croutons. 
Instead of truffles you can 
use asparagus tips, peas, or 
cooked ham. 

No. 201. UovaalPomidoro 
(Eggs and Tomatoes) 

Ingredients : Eggs, salt, 
tomatoes, onion, parsley, but- 
ter, pepper. 

Cut up three or four toma- 
toes, and put them into a 
stewpan with a piece of butter 
the size of a walnut and a 
clove of garlic with a cut in 
it. Put the lid on the stew- 
pan and cook till quite soft, 
then take out the garlic, strain 
the tomatoes through a fine 
strainer into a bain-marie, 
beat up two eggs and add 
them to the tomatoes, and 
stir till quite thick, then put 
in two tablespoonsful of grated 
cheese, and serve on toast. 

No. 202. Uova ripiene 
(Canape's of Egg) 

Ingredients: Eggs, butter, 
salt, pepper, nutmeg, cheese, 
parsley, mushrooms, Bechamel 
and Espagnole sauce, stock. 

Boil as many eggs as you 
want hard, and cut them in 
half lengthwise ; take out the 
yolks and mix them with some 
fresh butter, salt, pepper, very 
little nutmeg, grated cheese, 




a little chopped parsley, and 
cooked mushrooms also chop- 
ped. Then mix two table- 
spoonsful of good Bechamel 
sauce (No. 3) with the raw 
yolk of one or two eggs and 
add it to the rest. Put all in 
a saucepan with an ounce of 
butter and good stock, then 
fill up the white halves with 
the mixture, giving them a 
good shape; heat them in a 
bain-marie, and serve with a 
very good clear Espagnole 
sauce (No. 1)* 

the dish, and on this place 
the whites. Then in another 
saucepan mix half a gill of 
cream and an ounce of butter, 
a dessert-spoonful of flour, salt, 
and pepper; let this boil for 
a minute, and then glaze over 
the eggs in the dish with it, 
and on the top of each egg 
put a little bit of butter, and 
over all a powdering of grated 
cheese. Put this in the oven, 
pass the salamander over the 
top, and when the cheese is 
coloured serve at once. 

No. 203. Uova alia 
Fiorentina (Eggs) 

Ingredients: Eggs, butter, 
Parmesan, create flour, salt, 
pepper, curds. 

Boil as many eggs as you 
require hard, then cut them 
in half and take out the yolks 
and pound them in a mortar 
with equal quantities of butter 
and curds, a tablespoonful of 
grated Parmesan, salt and 
pepper. Put this in a sauce- 
pan and add the yolks of 
eight eggs and the white of 
one (this is for twelve people), 
mix all well together and re- 
duce a little. With this mix- 
ture fill the hard whites of the 
eggs and spread the rest of 
the sauce on the bottom of 

No. 204. Uova in fili 
(Egg Canapes) 

Ingredients : Eggs, butter, 
mushrooms, onions, flour, 
white wine, fish or meat stock, 
salt, pepper, croutons of 

Put into a saucepan two 
ounces of butter, three large 
fresh mushrooms cut into 
fillets, and an onion cut up, 
fry them slightly, and when the 
onion begins to colour add a 
spoonful of flour, a quarter of 
a glass of Chablis, salt and 
pepper, and occasionally add 
a spoonful of either fish or 
meat stock. Let this simmer 
for half an hour, so as to 
reduce it to a thick sauce. 
Then boil as many eggs as 



you want hard; take out the 
yolks, but keep them whole. 
Cut up the whites into slices, 
and add them to the above 
sauce, pour the sauce into a 
dish, and on the top of it 
place the whole yolks of egg, 
each on a crouton of bread. 

No. 205. Frittata di funghi 
(Mushroom Omelette) 

Ingredients : Mushrooms, 
butter, eggs, bread crumbs, 
Parmesan, marjoram, garlic. 

Clean four or five mush- 
rooms, cut them up, and put 
them into a frying-pan with 
one and a half ounce of butter, 
a clove of garlic with two cuts 
in it, and a little salt; fry 
them lightly till the mush- 
rooms are nearly cooked, and 
then take out the garlic. In 
the meantime beat up separ- 
ately the yolks and the whites 
of two or three eggs, add a 
little crumb of bread soaked 
in water, a tablespoonful of 
grated Parmesan, and two 
leaves of marjoram; go on 
beating all up until the crumb 
of bread has become entirely 
absorbed by the eggs, then 
pour this mixture into the 
frying-pan with the mush- 
rooms, mix all well together 
and make an omelette in the 
usual way. 

No. 206. Frittata con 
Pomidoro (Tomato 

Ingredients : Eggs, toma- 
toes, butter, marjoram, pars- 
ley, spice. 

Peel two tomatoes and take 
out the seeds ; then mix them 
with an ounce of butter, 
chopped marjoram, parsley, 
and a tiny pinch of spice. 
Add three eggs beaten up 
(the yolks and whites sepa- 
rately), and make an omelette. 

No. 207. Frittata con 
Asparagi (Asparagus 

Ingredients : Eggs, aspara- 
gus, butter, ham, herbs, 

Blanch a dozen heads of 
asparagus and cook them 
slightly, then cut them up 
and mix with two ounces of 
butter, bits of cut-up ham, 
herbs, and a tablespoonful of 
grated Parmesan. Add them 
to three beaten-up eggs and 
make an omelette. 

No. 208. Frittata con 
erbe (Omelette with 

Ingredients : Eggs, onions, 
sorrel, mint, parsley, aspaia- 



gus, marjoram, salt, pepper, 

Chop a little sorrel, a small 
bit of onion, mint, parsley, 
marjoram, and fry in two 
ounces of butter, add some 
cut-up asparagus, salt, and 
pepper. Then add three eggs 
beaten up and a little grated 
cheese, and make your ome- 

No. 209. Frittata Mon- 
tata (Omelette Soufflg) 

Ingredients : Eggs, Par- 
mesan, pepper, parsley. 

Beat up the whites of three 
eggs to a froth and the yolks 
separately with a tablespoonful 

of grated Parmesan, chopped 
parsley, and a little pepper. 
Then mix them and make a 
light omelette. 

No. 210. Frittata di Pros- 
ciutto (Ham Omelette) 

Ingredients : Eggs, ham, 
Parmesan, mint, pepper, 
clotted cream. 

Beat up three eggs and add 
to them two tablespoonsful of 
clotted cream, one tablespoon- 
ful of chopped ham, one of 
grated Parmesan, chopped 
mint and a little pepper, and 
make the omelette in the usual 


No. 2ii. Bodino of 

Ingredients: Semolina, 
milk, eggs, castor sugar, lemon, 
sultanas, rum, butter, cream, 
or Zabajone (No. 222). 

Boil one and a half pint 
of milk with four ounces of 
castor sugar, and gradually 
add five ounces of semolina, 
boil for a quarter of an hour 
more and stir continually 
with a wooden spoon, then 
take the saucepan off the 
fire, and when it is cooled 
a little, add the yolks of six 
and the whites of two eggs 
well beaten up, a little grated 
lemon peel, three-quarters of 
an ounce of sultanas and two 
small glasses of rum. Mix 
well, so as to get it very 
smooth, pour it into a but- 
tered mould and serve either 
hot or cold. If cold, put 
whipped cream flavoured with ~ 
stick vanilla round the dish ; 
if hot, a Zabajone (No.^222). 

No. 212. Crema rappresa 
(Coffee Cream) 

Ingredients : Coffee, cream, 
eggs, sugar, butter. 
-^Bruise five ounces of freshly 
roasted Mocha coffee, and 
add it to three-quarters of a 
pint of boiling cream; cover 
the saucepan, let it simmer 
for twenty minutes, then pass 
through a bit of fine muslin. 
In the meantime mix the 
yolks of ten eggs and two 
whole eggs with eight ounces 
of castor sugar and a glass 
of cream; add the coffee 
cream to this and pass the 
whole through a fine sieve 
into a buttered mould. Steam 
in a bain-marie for rather 
more than an hour, but do 
not let the water boil; then 
put the cream on ice for 
about an hour, and before 
serving turn it out on a 
dish and pour some cream 
flavoured with stick vanilla 
round it. 



No. 213. Crema Montata 
alle Fragole (Straw- 
berry Cream) 

Ingredients : Cream, cas- 
tor sugar, Maraschino, straw- 
berries or strawberry jam. 

Put a pint of cream on ice, 
and after two hours whip it 
up. Pass three tablespoonsful 
of strawberry jam through a 
sieve and add two tablespoons- 
ful of Maraschino; mix this 
with the cream and build it 
up into a pyramid. Garnish 
with meringue biscuits and 
serve quickly. You may use 
fresh strawberries when in 
season, but then add castor 
sugar to taste. 

No. 214. Croccante di 

Mandorle (Cream 

Ingredients:, Almonds, 
sugar, lemon juice, butter, 
castor sugar, pistacchios, pre- 
served fruits. 

Blanch half a pound of 
almonds, cut them into shreds 
and dry them in a slow oven 
until they are a light brown 
colour; then put a quarter 
pound of lump sugar into a 
saucepan and caramel it 
lightly; stir well with a wooden 
spoon. When the sugar is 

dissolved, throw the hot al- 
monds into it and also a little 
lemon juice. Take the sauce- 
pan off the fire and mix the 
almonds with the sugar, pour 
it into a buttered mould and 
press it against the sides of 
the mould with a lemon, but 
remember that the casing of 
sugar must be very thin. 
(You may, if you like, spread 
out the mixture on a flat dish 
and line the mould with your 
hands, but the sugar must be 
kept hot.) Then take it out 
of the mould and decorate it 
with castor sugar, pistacchio 
nuts, and preserved fruits. 
Fill this case with whipped 
cream and preserved fruits or 
fresh strawberries. 

No. 215. Crema tartara 
alia Caramella (Cara- 
mel Cream) 

Ingredients : Cream, eggs, 
caramel sugar, vanilla or lemon 

Boil a pint of cream and 
give it any flavour you like. 
When cold, add the yolks of 
eight eggs and two table- 
spoonsful of castor sugar, mix 
well and pass it through a 
sieve; then burn some sugar 
to a caramel, line a smooth 
mould with it and pour the 



cream into it. Boil in a bain- 
marie for an hour and serve 
hot or cold. 

No. 216. Cremona Cake 

Ingredients : Ground rice 
ground maize, sugar, one 
orange, eggs, salt, cream, 
Maraschino, almonds, pre- 
served cherries. 

Weigh three eggs, and take 
equal quantities of castor 
sugar, butter, ground rice and 
maize (the last two together) ; 
make a light paste with them, 
but only use one whole egg 
and the yolks of the two 
others, add the scraped peel 
of an orange and a pinch of 
salt. Roll this paste out to 
the thickness of a five-shilling 
piece, colour it with the yolk 
of an egg and bake it in a 
cake tin in a hot oven until 
it is a good colour, then take 
it out and cut it into four 
equal circular pieces. Have 
ready some well - whipped 
cream and flavour it with 
Maraschino, put a thick layer 
of this on one of the rounds 
of pastry, then cover it with 
the next round, on which also 
put a layer of cream, and so 
on until you come to the last 
round, which forms the top of 
the cake. Then split some 

almonds and colour them in 
the oven, cover the top of the 
cake with icing sugar flavoured 
with orange, and decorate the 
top with the almonds and 
preserved cherries. 

No. 217. Cake alia 

Ingredients : Sponge-cake, 
jam, brandy or Maraschino, 
cream, pine-apple. 

Make a medium - sized 
sponge-cake; when cold cut 
off the top and scoop out all 
the middle and leave only the 
brown case; cover the out- 
side with a good coating of 
jam or red currant jelly, and 
decorate it with some of the 
white of the cake cut into 
fancy shapes. Soak the rest 
of the crumb in brandy or 
Maraschino and mix it with 
quarter of a pint of whipped 
cream and bits of pine-apple 
cut into small dice; fill the 
cake with this ; pile it up high 
in the centre and decorate 
the top with the brown top 
cut into fancy shapes. 

No. 218. Riso all' 

Ingredients : Rice, sugar, 
milk, ice, preserved fruits, 



blanc - mange, Maraschino, 

Boil two dessert -spoons- 
ful of rice and one of sugar 
in milk. When sufficiently 
boiled, drain the rice and let 
it get cold. In the mean- 
time place a mould on ice, 
and decorate it with slices of 
preserved fruit, and fix them 
to the mould with just enough 
nearly cold dissolved isinglass 
to keep them in place. Also 
put half a pint of blanc- 
mange on the ice, and stir it 
till it is the right consistency, 
gradually add the boiled rice, 
half a glass of Maraschino, 
some bits of pine-apple cut 
in dice, and last of all half a 
pint of whipped cream. Fill 
the mould with this, and 
when it is sufficiently cold, 
turn it out and serve with a 
garnish of glace 1 fruits or a 
few brandy cherries. 

No. 219. Amaretti leg- 
gier! (Almond Cakes) 

Ingredients: Almonds 
(sweet and bitter), eggs, castor 

Blanch equal quantities of 
sweet and bitter almonds, and 
dry them a little in the oven, 
then pound them in a mortar, 
and add nearly double their 

quantity of castor sugar. Mix 
with the white of an egg well 
beaten up into a snow, and 
shape into little balls about 
the size of a pigeon's egg. 
Put them on a piece of stout 
white paper, and bake them 
in a very slow oven. They 
should be very light and de- 
licate in flavour. 

No. 220. Cakes alia 

Ingredients: Almonds, 
eggs, sugar, salt, potato flour, 

Pound two ounces of al- 
monds, and mix them with 
the yolks of two eggs and a 
spoonful of castor ^sugar 
flavoured with orange juice. 
Then mix two ounces of sugar 
with an egg, and to this add 
the alrnonds, a pinch of salt, 
and gradually strew in one 
and a half ounces of potato 
flour. When it is all well 
mixed, add one ounce of 
melted butter, shape the cakes 
and bake them in a slow 

No. 221. Genoese Pastry 

Ingredients : Eggs, sugar, 
butter, flour, almonds orange 
or lemon, brandy. 



Weigh four eggs, and take 
equal weights of castor sugar, 
butter, and flour. Pound 
three ounces of almonds, and 
mix them with an egg, melt 
the butter, and mix all the 
ingredients with a wooden 
spoon in a pudding basin for 
ten minutes, then add a little 
scraped orange or lemon peel, 
and a dessert-spoonful of 
brandy. Spread out the paste 
in thin layers on a copper 
baking sheet, cover them with 
buttered paper, and bake in 
a moderately hot oven. 

These cakes must be cut 
into shapes when they are 
hot, as otherwise they will 

No. 222. Zabajone 

Ingredients : Eggs, sugar, 
Marsala, Maraschino or other 
light-coloured liqueur, sponge 

Zabajone is a kind of sylla- 
bub. It is made with Mar- 
sala and Maraschino, or Mar- 
sala and yellow Chartreuse. 
Reckon the quantities as 
follows : For each person the 
yolks of three eggs, one tea- 
spoonful of castor sugar to 
each egg, and a wine-glass of 
wine and liqueur mixed. Whip 
up the yolks of the eggs with 

the sugar, then gradually add 
the wine. Put this in a bain- 
marie, and stir until it has 
thickened to the consistency 
of a custard. Take care, 
however, that it does not boil. 
Serve hot in custard glasses, 
and hand sponge fingers 
with it. 

No. 223. Iced Zabajone 

Ingredients : - Eggs, castor 
sugar, Marsala, cinnamon, 
lemon, stick vanilla, rum, 
Maraschino, butter, ice. 

Mix the yolks of ten eggs, 
two dessert-spoonsful of castor 
sugar,and three wine-glasses of 
Marsala, add half a stick of 
vanilla, a small bit of whole 
cinnamon, and the peel of 
half a lemon cut into slices. 
Whip this up lightly over a 
slow fire until it is nearly 
boiling and slightly frothy; 
then remove it, take out the 
cinnamon, vanilla, and lemon 
peel, and whip up the rest for 
a minute or two away from 
the fire. Add a tablespoon- 
ful of Maraschino and one of 
rum, and, if you like, a small 
quantity of dissolved isinglass. 
Stir up the whole, pour it into 
a silver souffle dish, and put it 
on ice. Serve with sponge- 
cakes or ice wafers. 



No. 224. Pan-forte di 

Siena(Sienese Hardbake) 

Ingredients : Honey, al- 
monds, filberts, candied lemon 
peel, pepper, cinnamon, cho- 
colate, cornflour, large wafers. 

Boil half a pound of honey 
in a copper vessel, and then 
add to it a few blanched al- 
monds and filberts cut in 
halves or quarters and slightly 
browned, a little candied 
lemon peel, a dust of pepper 
and powdered cinnamon and 

a quarter pound of grated 
chocolate. Mix all well to- 
gether, and gradually add a 
tablespoonful of cornflour and 
two of ground almonds to 
thicken it. Then take the 
vessel off the fire, spread the 
mixture on large wafers, and 
make each cake about an 
inch thick. Garnish them on 
the top with almonds cut 
in half, and dust over a little 
powdered sugar and cinna- 
mon, then put them in a very 
slow oven for an hour.