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THE 


JOHN - CRAIG 


LIBRARY 


COLLEGE 
OF 


AGRICULTURE 
NEW YO°K STATE 
COLLEGE OF AG iSULTURE, 
EPARTAENT GF Hu TICULTURE, 


ornell University Library 


anadian fruit, flower and kitchen garde 


Cornell University 


Library 


The original of this book is in 
the Cornell University Library. 


There are no known copyright restrictions in 
the United States on the use of the text. 


http://www. archive.org/details/cu31924000684518 


ADVERTISEMENT, 


THE 
FRUIT GROWERS’ ASSOCIATION 
OF ONTARIO. 
Rev. R. BURNET, Hamilton, - - - President. 


D. W. BEADLE, St. Catharines, - - Secretary. 


The Annual Report, illustrated with accurately executed en- 
gravings, and with one or more finely coloured fruit-plates, con- 
tains a large amount of very valuable information, and is sent, 
post-paid, to every member. 

A number of fruit trees are distributed every year to each 
member for trial. The entire expense of this distribution is 
borne by the Association, the members being required only to 
make report to the Association, through the Secretary, of the 
results of such trial. The Swayzie Pomme Grise Apple tree will 
be distributed in the Spring of 1875; the Downing Gooseberry 
in that of 1874; and the Tetofsky Apple in the Spring of 1876. 
Other selections will be made for distribution from time to time, 
as the Directors ascertain what varieties it is desirable to test. 

Prizes are given for Essays, Canadian Seedling Fruits, &c., of 
which a full announcement will be found in the Annual Report. 

Any person can become a member by sending the annual fee 
of one dollar to the Secretary. Any member who will take the 
trouble to send the names and fees of five new members, will re- 
ceive a double number of trees at the next distribution, 


CANADIAN 
FRUIT, FLOWER 


AND 
JKutcuen GARDENER, 


1872. 


CANADIAN 


FRUIT, FLOWER, 


KITCHEN GARDENER. 


BY 
D. W. BEADLE, Eso., 


Secretary of the Fruit Growers’ Association of Ontario, Editor of the 
Horticultural Department of the Canada Farmer, &c., &¢. 


A GUIDE IN ALL MATTERS RELATING TO THE CULTIVATION OF FRUITS, 
FLOWERS AND VEGETABLES, AND THEIR VALUE FOR 
CULTIVATION IN THIS CLIMATE. 


TORONTO: 
PUBLISHED BY JAMES CAMPBELL & SON, 
1872. 


Entered according to the Act of the Parliament of Canada, in the year One Thousand 
Eight Hundred and Seventy-two, by Jamzs CamPBEut & Son, 
in the Office of the Minister of Agriculture, 


HUNTER, ROSE & CO., PRINTERS, TORONTO, 


Detlicated, 


(By Permission,) 
Ea the 


Presidbent and Members 


@f the 


fruit {hres ssociation of {hai 


Bp their most devoten humble Servant, 


Whe SAL uthor, 


CONTENTS. 


SUBJECTS. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 


THE PROPAGATION OF Fruit TREES— PAGE 
Gretta N gy ssicnis la sigialggcticeis a shila omigetae ecaua ties eyeeaniaraneas ne lata, “1D 
How to Cleft Graft aver 6 
How to Whip Grattiiic.c..cescvssnissvesessecsrsnasearynepawessconagvenemens 9 
How to make Grafting Wax ..2.....ccscccccccseneecceeecneeneeecee nates 7 
To prepare Waxed Cloth........ vax 11 
To Select Scions................ wean EL 
Budding and when to Bud........... ccc cece eeeseseenereeenees 12 
How: to; Select: Bids wise se sass sscascimed ence soxacatiianauorsnae waveceles 14 
When to Remove the Ligature and Head Back the Stock......... 16 
THE Pronine or Fruir Trers— 
When to Prune and Why... ececeseseeseesenene ee eer errors anton 18 
Wihtere:to Prune: censicas savsivendidgeiveaasvaes ua nadaileankrewsess nese We atwndond 20 
Prining to Produée Ertliticssrs weencsacvataviecuapecovenaanaas 21 
TRANSPLANTING TREES— 
The best Time to Transplant. ........0....0..ccceeeeeeeeesseeeee ane eeeees 23 
Preparing the Grow aicssisaserswiisariies weaves svvewiniedavmatedaisde sa eed 23 
Howto: Plan ties sete vencbieed eatinnaabiahertideansitinipuselaeeatceanede: 25 
The best Trees for Transplanting ............cc:cccsccccceeeeeneee teens 27 
MvuLcHINc— 
What is Meant by Mulching..............0.ccceeceeeseeee cette tetas 26 
How to Mulch, and why itis done........cccsesee eeeseseneeeceeneeane 26 
TREATMENT OF YounNG OrcHARDS— 
Mo Protect Prom Mice: yet .aitssciec cuasier tia: aislractajeddevenanivea shia yea nies 30 
To Keep the Bark Clean and Healthy...........ccccsecsecssseeeeee ers 31 
LocaTIoN or OrncHaRD— 
Soiland Aspect: siccscccssnasainmermanusne: aces ne sesaemumnuabedentananas 31 
Hills and Valleys 32 
JnsvRious INSECTS, AND HOW TO GET RID OF THEM— 
The Tent Caterpillar.............cccccseseeeseeeees caietbiadsdeavnavaeees 35 
The Two-striped Borer .......:.::cccce: ccscevessresenceeeeeereenes eeeeee 38 
The Buprestis Apple Tree Borer...... 40 
The Codling Worm 42, 


The Plum Corculio...:c.iscoiessae wioaisdsnedvarsaeeareuerseeareinees 45. 


vi CONTENTS. 


PAGE 
The Grape Vine Flea Beetle................cccsssseeeeeseeeesceeevonse ees 49 
The Green Grape Vine Sphinx. oa ve 50 
The Gooseberry Saw-fly.............-ccsceecessesesevenss teseseceesenaees 52 
Tue Propucrion or NEW VARIETIES OF FRUIT— 
How they are produced ... Phdsirdiapeucsemuadaisa goand sata 53 
Cross-fertiliza tom: 2..0ticc acosvates aqsnetia Wade unidisewstavsceenaeacantes 58 
How to: Crogs-fertilizess.....60s sneseraieversedecsseinaconesesencdien samnsioe 59 
Tue AprLe— 
Soil best Suited to Apples ........::cccscsesesesseeee cesseeenesaeetoee 61 
How Propagate wis... cc sscasssnsvantsenece seaniars oceans ywesassaxanuowinnte 62 
Gathering and Sorting for Market ..............0cccceeees cee eeeeeeeees 62 
Packing and Marketing the Fruit ... av se 68 
Best Kinds for Market................... oes ve Ot 
Dwarf and Half-standard Trees depeaaet seen 6B 
Varieties of Apples, with description of each.............000.000 66 
Tur APRICOT— 
Cliniate and Soil Suwitable.......c..ccsciccae ces cine onniecnsett deseabenaeen 84 
How Propagated.siieiissicavscnenee wescnnd aateedae wteees ve 84 
Varieties, with description 85 
THE CHERRY— 
Classes of Varieties and Soil best Suited ..........0...00. ceeeeeeeeeee 85 
How Propagated and Stocks on which it is Grown va 86 
Varieties, with full description...............cccscseessecseenstereree ees 87 
THE NEcTARINE— 
Cultivation and ‘Varletdes wesssiniicstnaiaiiyvcccs seasatedtneasmcens, sence 92 
THE PEacH— 
94 
95 
95 


Manures and Propagation. 


Standard Trees, sciscesscasccsaminanidiesss. asker wascsnoss 
Dwarf Trees and how to Plant them.... or 

4 Heer te Pris C6 icvesisc ccasiss conseaccesvansdteusesin cin deahaseiadecron 
Thinning Out and Gathering the Fruit....... 0.0... eee 108 
Growing for Market ....... Saitepiaaisnamienseitaakionde ues diae wanstaatadeeas 105 


Varieties, with full description ..............:c:eccceeseceeeeeeeneeeeeees 105 
Tae Prum— 
Cliinaite aiid Solis .2 iasanadivsce Ait seins cca aaiodduartaciaidated aseanammenaine 118 


CONTENTS. vii. 


Best Fertilizers and Diseases.............. ceececcsseseeescceeeseneeevees 118 

How Propagated........000...00 

Varieties, with description 
THE Quince— 


Where it Can be Grown, and on What Soils..................0. . 122 
Best Manures and How Far Apart to Plant ..........0.00. 0. 128 
How Propagated and Varieties 0.0.0.0... .0.eeeeeceeeceneeeseeeee eens 123 

Harpy Grares— 

, Proper Soils..............40 gstsintr Moraeeeeaiag Ronaualenteebamegaeaet pameeeas 124 
Preparing the Ground and Manuring —......... eee 125 
Distance Apart and Time and Method of Planting ................ 125 
Treatment of Young Vines and Pruning and Training........... 126 
Trellis: anid! Wire ciseae scans sca aislasncs siuniaadenuneieoncegnamesdaestenac 127 
Varieties and description............0...ccseecceeeeee ceeceseeteeeneeeeee 132 
Mildewis SG wisiiien cease odode seer poactintene ats deaeebaten anaes vosQuanees 1388 

GRAPES UNDER GLASS— 
Shape and. Size of ViMeryisencsccisigeincennsteecnctiieeree. covece tee ued 
How to Build a Vinery ..... 
How to Heat it ........ 


How to Ventilate it... a sie 
Best: Forni of BoilePisiseciseinansoreneatisercseroerce weenie <3 tees 4s 
Best Size of Pipes ncsesngawere avevacsenisncersanes coeas eerames 
Border for the Vines............ gebe sen us ecereinased 
Soil for Border, Compost, and Drainage ..................ccseeeeeeees 
Planting the ‘Vines 0.00. sensuaiecseeversenneaaaneevessanreumeunyensares 
Subsequent Treatment of the Vines............ 
Temperature of Vinery by Day and Night............000.. 00005 
Quantity of Fruit that may be left on the Vines.................. 
Ripening the Fruit... ceeeeeseeeeeeee saa astmeeteneetasieatnao ee 
Diseases of Vines—Shanking......... 0000.0 ccccecsseeeececeeeeeneeeeeenes 
Mildew........ satinpaehy hana eaamyna Sie 
List of Vines most desirable for Vinery.. 
List for Early Forcing............0:0ecee ats 
ERUITING EXOTIC VINES IN POTS...........:cccccscesetecssseeeeeeteneeneneees 
Tre BLAcKBERRY— 


Cultivation and Propagation ...........cccccsieeeceececseeeeeseneeeeneees 161 
Varieties, with description.............. ccc. cece eeeceeeeeaeneeeeee 161 
THE STRAWBERRY— 


viii. CONTENTS. 


PAGE 
Best Time for Transplanting and Best Plants..........-2.-+00--+00+ 165 
Preparation of Ground and Planting ..... ......-:seseesereesere cree 166 
Production of New Varieties..............ccccceseeeeceeeeseeeeenseneeees 167 
Varieties, with full description..............c0cccceceeeer eens stones 168 
Tuz RAsPpBERRY— 
How Propagated : s.csswsssssssesaees tessesececsecadinaescenten ceteastnersens 171 
Best Soils and How to Plant..............ccccssseseeeeeeeeeeees cee 172 
To Cultivate ecossasussveres anesemnaneetsies wee 173 
To Prune ..........00000- 174 
To Protect in Winter, ........0...0.-ssscceseesaesesecesseenssecerseneoenees 175 
Varieties, and their description...........0..c::cceeeeeeee ee sere neeeees 175 
Tue CurRrant— 
How to Propagate ............c.scceesesessenecnecneceeeeseeeoecuseuenseaens 
How to Cultivate and Prune ...... 


Varieties, with full description 
THE GoosEBERY— 


DG: Milde Wiss wsicciin si uige spec taastncbiactasideaisan ven sits reonasaeaitsenie nase ve 181 

How to Prune and Cultivate .............. cee ccee cee eee eee eeeeneeerecaees 182 

Varieties icccciccenadcnadnaicetteainssaneane nin ava ugeansiainaycases sassue J estcshaur 183 
THE CRANBERRY— 

Preparation of Soil .......... .. sii daricerecieasde ds Neanen oSaciinhnaa semen 183 


Planting and Cultivation 186 
How to control the Water, so as to flood or drain off at pleasure 184 — 


Wate tie Seasisicszciy sawed accwwanisi sua sasiba dis've vc cease tunntea/atintesuatnetialasaasaeadls 187 
THe HuckLesEeRRy— 
Natural: Sols sissjssealenayiaaievietsevventa weet vance ewien tianlaavecnddteendays 188 


KITCHEN GARDEN. 


AsPABAGUS— 
How: tio: Prepare the Soil cea sssasssseswcvsciaeses eueegeesageewsssesinns es 194 
How to Plant and Cultivate ..............ccccccscseeeeseeeuseeeeececaues 195 
When and How to Cut and How to Cook.. ... 196 
WATLOUIES sig: sicasonreieinsiaee 14dstonts wetnasnenicnt eu sid david Sceranse aicneesivey eee ve cose 196 
Buans— 
Dwarf or Bush Varieties .............cccseccesuceeeeeceaveeceeavueausepens 


Running or Pole Varieties and their Cultivation 
BEETs— 

How to Prepare the Soil and Cultivate .........:::cccccccseeeeeseeee, 201 

Gathering and Preserving in Winter..............006 senna sae 202 

Wearl@biee ys. c.iecvim acansnonongisnsuncaucagnissamesseccedt ose vaeseungeedopeanes 203 


CONTENTS, ix. 


BroccoLi— PAGE 

Culltirre amd eV arieties). 5321 sushicnac sancasdede swans dasatae atedavizanaedvedten 204 
Brussets SpRouTs— 

Cultivation and Use ..c...cccccccccsssesesessesceseeesceceatsveceevereesers 205 
CABBAGE— 

Soil and Cultivation... 

WiRELCCION 5 satin daithieusanseeetbitsdutgaiedad casted savisamtgibiels bin acaniantegtcct 
CaRROTS— 

How to Prepare the Ground and Cultivate ........0...cceceee 210 

Wises and Varieties: iia cicsssce ices irene cdvestileanswiar cavneceaed Riciciddentis 211 
CAULIFLOWER— ' 

Soil and Manures....................065 Mh cartitaie sce vais abubltadoaeaeingamda’s 213 

How to Cultivate and to Use... «. 214 

Best Warlettes:cescscuciusteaedess arenverateaterarsadspspacenatynenaeates yee 214 
CELERY— 

How to Cultivate and Blanch...... .......cccceescceeeseeeeseeneeeeeree 216 

To Secure'for Winter’ Us@siccicavas-aniussessswnaieaiaadarasvecadiediiecss 218 

Varieties onasnevauusavasitinyadecaae aed anariuweewenddacranesis seneaeleaenave 219 
Cress on Pepper Grass— 

Soil, Cultivation and Varieties...........cccccccssecscuesteeeeceeseeeners 220 
CocumBER— . 

Soilsand! Cultivationvccencnestexndetegunvaieeguenaxmersenseusnemsceenrees 221 


WArietlesisatsars sears ds xeaamunitoaiey ovaguieaninnedieavei sei aecaveaunygeeeeemee AS 
Corn— 

Best Table Varieties ...........2..-.cc0ceeeeee Ssaaid thea stnntcaanadensecentes 224 
ENDIVE— 

Livre rcccseccariemsvicmeneenaenedmennaserieianimanesnmanas 

Blanching and Preservation during Winter 
Eeco Prantr— 


CW VA OTS... scccdivats reesei sioadiahioe daiihigslistanadaa satin mmaeotecmmernntias 225 

Use arid. Varieties ic accopietsnssiasisies cn vdeakiccsestoe dau eeatennesinnusiand 226 
GARLIC— 

Cultivation and: Use ssc: sccuse sirens enaieavedaneecenwargexainay Aguoiamans 226 
Horszt RaprsH— 

Propagation, Cultivation and Use......1.::ccssesserssssrsererssennee 227 
KouL-RABI— 

Cultivation, Use and Varieties. ...............ccesesassee ees eeeenscee ees 228 
Lerx— 

Soil and ‘Oultivationea:s:.cscsrvexsawereniase vaystavavverausvece sexveh ane 228 

Usei.and Sorts sis.eccnee:) eemctancanasrerioiursesreasecetsnaeaianers 228 
LErrnce— 

Preparation of Soil and Cultivation............cccsesseseeeeneereee 229 


The Best Varieties 


x. CONTENTS. 


MeEtons— PAGE 
How ‘to.-Prepare the: Soil 3.sccscagsoccven oviswetirea Sade thestataneeemardes 231 
How to Cultivate, and the Best Varieties .......... eetdndaheteRbaess 232 


On1on— 
How to Prepare the Soil and Cultivate. 2.0.2.0... 234 
To Preserve during Winter, and the Best Varieties ............... 


PARSNIP— 
Preparation of Soil and Cultivation. ...........c0.:cccsseeeee ceveeeee 240 
Use and! Verietiees 3 c.isssiatendned cesiasranadesudedsweenet thas den oevaeen 241 


Porato— 


Cultivation and Forcing. 

Marletiess:....cavasascsavicediadasecnnima eeu nonce tauatenaaennnenaee 
PEAs— 

Preparation of Soil and Sowing....... 00.0... eeeeeeeeeeee 245 

Cultivation, Use and Varieties......... .cccccccccccccccecesveceeeuereees 246 
PEPPERS— 

COTE Vat OL soe ntanzse xkadenavanvencmne tas snedetcineamadesiarmbiewesiebarsiies 

Use and Varieties 
RapDIsHEs— 

Soil and Cultivation...........cccccccceeece ceeees 

Spring and Autumn Varieties. 


RavBARB oR Pre PLanr— 
reparation Of Soil ss st sets de eles sees uanddald us eacauecuecenes ous 250 
Cultivation, Use and Varieties, ..........0.......ccccccceceeceeeeeeeeeees 251 
SaLsiFry on Oyster PLant— 


Cultivation and Use 
SquasH— 

Soil and Cultivation... 00... ccecccccscssveccccceeaceccutsscecuseece 252 

Summer Varieties...............cccccccscssecese vesccseeccsecsucee svsuveee 253 

Autumn and Winter Kinds.......0.....00cccccceceecessceceeeceeesceeene 254 
Sra Katz— 

Preparation of the Ground ..0...........:ceccesececcse seeesetescsecceees 

Cultivation..........0.ccccceee eee 

Blanching, Cutting and Use 
SrinacH— 

Soil and Cultivation. ........0..ccccccccceccceesesceueeseveescsueestseerecs 257 

Use and Varieties 


CONTENTS. Xl. 


ToMATOES— PAGE 


TURNIPS— 
Soil and, Cultivation: sciciscisverdes danse toruieantakosmaniiies 264 
Harvesting... we 264 
WaTieti es cs actae vals aigeuthewate nesedteahnennecneaveanhau sun eneihaameseuaneeta 265 
Hot-Brps— 
Their Construction and Use.........0....cceceeeeceseeeseesescaa serena ees 265 
Comp Frames— 
Their Construction and Use.........ccccseeseccessseesecceecuerrervenses 268 
TooLts— 
Steel Rake, Scuffle-Hoe and Digging Fork... ............ccccseeseeees 268 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Harpy FLowErine Survss— 
Ber berry icici ietoscdde acute cavsednatadeciensuaneseiencesaes Wigadiabeaoeacerad 272 
Carolina Allspice or Calycanthus ........0.......cceseveeeeeceseeeeeeees 273 
Canadian Judas Tree ...............445 vee 273 
Cornus Florida or Dogwood ... a seve 274 
Double Flowering Almonds................. ae see Q74 
Deutzias, Single and Double-flowered ...........:cceccecseeeseeeeeeees 276 
Wilbert; Purple Leave 3.50: sa cis ienay'es esdicnsed sa soees denies sauiauien 277 
Hawthorns, Scarlet, Rose-colored, ete... 
Honeysuckles, Pink and Red Flowering...............0c:::ee oe 
Lilacs, Persian White, etc., eb. ........cce ceceeeree ree nteeeeeceeeee eee 278 


Prunus Triloba, Double Flowered .... 
Purple Fringe or Smoke-bush......... 
Rosé Acacia: «.cicecascasgscce cesses 


Syringa or Mock Orange re 
Snowball or Guelder Rose..........c.ceecescenteetceecesceenesseneaeeeeens 


Weigelas, Rose-flowered, Variegated-leaved, ete. 
White: Brin gee: tesscacnstsnsiins scticseeneh onecenaseneadrery season cckreganhe 


xii. CONTENTS. 


Harpy Ciimpine SHruss— PAGE 
Ampelopsis or Virginia Creeper .......::.cccccssseeseeeeenneerereneeeees 286 
Bignonia or Trumpet Flower............:ccsseceeceseeneeeeeeeeceeeeeneas 286 
Birthwort or Dutchman’s Pipe.,............cecsseseceeeesene essen seeeees 
Clematis or Virgin’s Bower, Various Sorts.. 
Honeysuckles, Various Sorts..... ......:::00 
Wistaria or Glycine........... ccc 


Harpy Herpacnous FLowErs— 
Achillea or Milfoil ...............cesesseeeuesceeeeeseneeaseesoeeneton eters 
Aconite or Monkshood.... 
Aquilegia or Columbine... 
Campanula or Bellflower.......ccccsececceeeeeeenteeeeseneeenneeenee cee 
Carnations ics :\jadoccintcvavinnetsonnairareatetinnyss i803 1hie1 eee mae 
Convallaria or Lily of the Valley.. 
Delphinium or Larkspur ..,....:0cccccsesseeseeeceeeeeeeeeeeerennae sees 293 
Dianthus, thie: PIM saseswssseae iaccedaosns ddeseraisiversorusinceraencds 
Dictamnus or Fraxinella... : 
Digitalis or Foxglove...........4: sean 
Dicentra or Bleeding Heart..........:.cccessseeneeeeeeeeeenrenn errand af 
Funkia or Day Lily ad 
Helleborus Niger or Christmas Rose ............s2eceeeser ene cer eeeees 297 
Iris, German, or Fleur-de-lis, &c. 
Lathyrus or Ever-blooming Pea .............cccsseeseeseetereeeeeeeeeees 
Lychnis, Various Sorts .............0cc cece eeeceeeteeen eee eeaeeneenes 
RADSIOS: si esncatosnnia ainsadiaies 
Peonias, Herbaceous Sorts........... 
Phloxes, Tall and Short Varieties .... 
Spircoa or Meadow Sweet........ccsscscsccssseesssseesceesereseseetennees 
Sweet William, Dianthus Barbatus................ ce cecee cee ee eee eee 
Tricyrtis (very fragrant, new, late-blooming) . es 
VION CES i. cies cbiatinaicosinein le Sas: raks Sats a i siaatons oialnareus detains em mae omens 
Yucca, Filamentosa, or Adam’s Needle ..............::ceeseee ceeeee 

Buisovus-RooTeD FLowERs— 

General Observations... 


Fritillarias . nie eth 
Gad OlUS oveeseeceas votieiesneities sien cece berebereenmreusanees teats abies 
A ACID ELS bia. ctasiswsnseurecns woane sda en twarewcioeantneniecgastaayseres : 
Tris, English, Spanish and Persian... a 
Liliesof Various ‘Sorte. cascsecssvseusiestescsareiessive. <aviseqaeniiensaeeae 324 


CONTENTS. xiii. 
PAGE 
Narcissus ...........cccccceseeee ceeeeeeeeeee States sagdeuse weve B26 
Snowdrops 
Tigridias or Tiger Flower 
Tiberose vices sasecivausvavss 
MPULDS scssepcey news spoisuenaseniancga Suis desaeewtienvadeeaensseteannienenen 
Bgpprne Piants (Flowering through the Summer)— 

Verbenas, and How to Care for them.............. cesesceese see seers 332 
Heliotropes and their Varieties............cc000 ccsceseeeeseeeeceeeee eee 334 
Bouvardia, Cultivation and Varieties .........0....:.ccesseseeeneeeees 335° 
Coles eres cn abiachiontdce cotsnpitaireenipabtictads 
Petunias ..... 
Lantanas. 


Variegated-Leaved Geraniums .. 


Tvy-Leaved Geramiums........ ...cecccceceseceeeereereeeseeaaseeesneeneeee 


Mignonette ... gh 2a 
Portia scsises cease rissuiicncainnide ute dave vamskSowesdauaundaasanentiunmemaneniues 
Rocket harks pursovic,c2snicvarias snk Geddcenad smadweonagapontanadecun tes 
Scabiosa or Mourning Bride. arr 
Bal PLGlOSSS sce soercaasivannvavsanndcamwssd wontuanhasvawnaemmanesedsviinessans 
Stock, en: Weeks szcicssrceeec.ceeisuacesivcasd ie dane toagueseaiacnauhaes 
ANNUALS—CLIMBING— 
Convolvulus or Morning Glory... 
Dolichos or Hyacinth Bean....... bee heat 
GPOTIEAB scsa beste Gassnessapeaaaatens ondaosesis dive csaisis teas uaseta res Dec ce 352 
Sweet: PCRS ssc 2s204sdaccecueaeasejideeaee ace piles emetecseneauandseagcagueeses 352 
PrOpeOlUMS .. .2csnassuisiuaiesasinnansriacszey adda bubddanpuinetesscmceocavan 352 
ANNUALS—EVERLASTING FLOWERS— 


Gomphrena, Globe Amaranth... 
Helichrysum ... 
Helipterum ... ve 
Rodanthe... ........-.:e:0eeeeeeees cassia eseveatnsctihenetwaeat baler sneigates 354 
Xeranthemum ............2++ as Sete wabenRleR eae chsonencatytiut pscnnernaaeaes 354 


xiv. CONTENTS. 


ORNAMENTAL GRASsES— PAGE 
Agrostis Nebulosa........ccccscccecsseens ckipeass iv deoegas zeolite wnaepy 355 


Pennisetum ............. 
Stipa Pennata. . 


Winpow-GaRDENING— 
Important Directions 
Plants suitable... 2s.zceseins vaviee ensesati actevaeiiioveen seas ebweee hee 

Rosss— , 

Cultivation im the Garden. ..........ccccseececeeesee eee eeeeseenenseenees 361 
Climbing Roses, Choice Varieties......... ....... F 
Summer Roses, the Best Kinds. ...... ualedeid apres 
Moss) ROg@8: tisesg4z23 sxcsnanalsvoseiasniaassoase satignane dan sinieg 
Autumnal Roses, Blooming a Second Time...............0.00. ce 
Monthly Roses, for Window Gardening ...........:c::ccceeeeeee ees 

CLIMATIC VARIATIONS— 

General Survey .........:ceeeeseeee es ic asualsvley fuse tutgwaa -issausenna umes 379 


Harpy EVERGREENS— 
AmericancArbor: Vite ecideseasvss seat sionase daw gseausadcabseaweheiandens 383 
American Yew 
Austrian Pine .... 


Common Juniper 
Basterm Spruce sicisiccs <siscsaasawosseunviis vesbeoes getuwesaseuaaecntevamcsid 
Hemlock Spruce .... vas sie 
AMIDES PANE 05.3 scisowanncn seta aibaneeas vara paaieaoeviarduersemonanuiae 
TiAWSON'S CHPIESS .. sccviciidvcacer yea seegneraisansas- wosweaienys én se 
Norway Spruce See — 
Nordmann’s Fir 2.0... cee cee cee 


Siberian Silver Fir ............... 
Siberian Arbor Vite... teas 
Swedish Jumiper scccccvsccevercecsiaciccseenestasasvavarsens avkluadamiowentauss 386 
Tartarian Arbor Vite 
White Pine aie 
White Spruce ....... cesses cones 
White Cedar.........ccccececeeeee 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Figures 1 and 2, showing the manner of cleft grafting ; figure 1 
being the scion prepared for insertion in the stock, figure 2 the 
stock with the scions inserted...........:.ccccseecesseeeeeeeseeeeeeeneees 

Figures 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8, showing the method of whip grafting ; 
figure 3 showing the bevelled surfaces of stock and scion, 
figure 4 the same tongued, figure 5 the graft and stock put 
together, figure 6 as tied together with a ligature, figure 7 as 
covered with grafting wax, and figure 8 as wound with a strip 
OL Waxed COLON: .iexsvnvcsnevsaeuis conteneesweredeas axeasintaudeandanaaacese 


Figure 9, a branch or scion prepared for budding.............::0+-:s00 
Figure 10, the best form of budding knife. ............00...c:cceeeeesee eee 


Figures 11, 12, 18, and 14 show the manner in which the operation 
of budding is performed ; figure 11 is the bud when cut from 
the scion, figure 12 the stock with the bark loosened and pre- 
pared to receive the bud, figure 13 the bud inserted in the 


Figure 15 represents the bud tied to a portion of the stock, in order 
to keep it upright during the first weeks of its growth. The 
broken white line across the stock shows where the stock is to 
be cut off when the bud has grown sufficiently stout to stand 
erect without: SUppOr ti so ssssicianisases donsder vautextarcceieesennerienemavens 


Figure 16 shows the place at which a branch should be cut when 
taken from the tree...............0:0066 Davvsres beet Getntwednemmnetmn sce 


Figures 17, 18, and 19 show where a small branch should be pruned ; 
figure 17 peprener ing it as cut too far from the bud, te 18 
as cut too close to the bud, and figure 19 when cut at the proper 


Figures 20, 21, and 22 represent the proper and improper appear- 
ance of the roots of transplanted trees...............ccceeeeeeseeeees 
Figure 23 represents tent caterpillars, with their tent, the eggs 
from which they are hatched, and the cocoon into which they 
PASS ia degcesargiod ous du seswssgincde seavase es oace us caberanctonnredoesacnaausieaces 
Figures 24, 25, and 26 are the male and female moths of the tent 
caterpillar, and the chrysalis from which they are hatched....... 
Figure 27 is a cut of the forest tent caterpillar. 0.0.0... 
Figure 28 represents the two-lined apple tree borer, and the worm 
from which it is produced............. eiluaiSeb steels iadenidle unaidulserauictaunias 
Figure 29 is the worm and beetle of the buprestis apple tree borer... 
Figure 30 represents a piece of an apple that has been eaten by the 
codlin worm; the worm is crawling on the outside, and the 
moth is shown near the apple with the wings expanded, and on 
the apple with the wings folded. The cocoon is seen. attached 
to asmall'piecesof ‘bark... cic susan cadesasaseanessessaiesevsvass qpeneys 
Figure 32 shows the plum curculio in the beetle, worm and pupa 
state, magnified ; and of the natural size, in the act of deposit- 
ing its egg upon a Cherry... .....0.c...cceeseseceecctenecssesenseenan tees 
Figure 33 represents the grape vine flea beetle and the larva, both 
magnified, and the young larve feeding on a leaf of the vine... 


XV. 


PAGE 


6 


9, 10 
14 
14 


4, 15, 16 


17 


20 


20 


27 


35 


37 
38 


38 


41 


42 


47 


49 


XV1 ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Figures 34, 35 and 36 represent the green grape vine sphinx in the PAGE 


moth, worm and chrysalis states...........:066 ccc: eeeeceeeteeeeecee eee 50, 51 
Figure 37 is a cherry blossom cut open so as to show the ovary, 

pistil, and stamens..............cccccceccceceeceeaneeteeneeeseeeteeeseneeens 56 
Figures 38, 39, 40 and 41 show how the pollen enters the pistil, 

descends to the ovary, enters it and comes in contact with the 

germ, so imparting to it the power of development................ anys 
Figure 42 represents an apple blossom cut open, showing the num- 

DEROF PISS euiscjadaswsot due ductow deg neesaenaied Selteielsnaiandinesauses yORarestu 57 
Figure 43 shows more distinctly the pistil and stamen... Be 58 
Figure 44, a grape vine at the end of the third year...... 128 
Figure 45, a grape vine in the autumn of the fourth year.. ase 129 
Figure 46, section of an astragal 0.0.0... ccccccceeeeeceeeceeee cee eeeeneeeeene 142 
Figure 47 represents a dwarf pear tree at one season’s growth from 

ANE DU ssnisea saierousiecicuiesinlana nenupd nieve his Seodedtinsdaiieaamuauiieuainied sca 100 
Figure 48, a dwarf pear tree at two years from the bud.... 100 
Figure 49, the same tree at three years from the bud ....... 101 
Figure 50, the same tree at four years from the bud ........ 101 
Figure 47 shows the flow and return pipes, with the boiler and ex- 

pansion tank in the vinery..........cccccccseeeeee eee ceeeeeeeceseeeeerees 148 
Figure 48 represents the method of admitting fresh air into the 

vinery without creating a cold draught........0.0 cee 144 
Figure 49, a perfect strawberry blossom...... 163 
Figure 50, a pistillate strawberry blossom...... 163 
Figure 51, a blackcap raspberry plant, with the. cane tips rooted in 

SFY i RCI NR TL Re RARER OER INE INNINGS 171 
Figure 52, a cutting prepared and planted ...........0..cccsseseeeee sees 180 
Figure 58, the mode of layering plants...............000ccccee eee eae 182 
Figure 54, branch and fruit of the cherry cranberry... ..... 188 
Figure 55, branch and fruit of the huckleberry .............. 189 
Figure 56, early bassano beet..............cccccsessneeeeeeeeeeeeees 208 
Figure 57, Brussels sprouts................. 205 
Figure 58, green globe Savoy cabbage.. 209 
Figure 59, early horn carrot 211 
Figure 60, egg-plant and fruit 225 
Migur’s 61, Won TaD,» sce coececes ivonsiewe os sage cghsiguayyesaatmonuse- seneageat 227 
Figure 62, drumhead lettuce... .. ... evesteaie Mapa chee iy 230 
Figure 63, potato ONION 0.0.00... cc ceeeceeeeeeeee eeeeeeeeeaeeeeee ecees 239 
Pigure 64, tree onion ..........0ccceeeecccaeeecesaeveenes 239 
Figure 65, Chinese rose winter radish ........ 250 
Figure 66, autumnal marrow squash..... .... 254 
Figure 67, Hubbard squash ......... Siena ticcssmaoe 255) 
Figure 68, gladiolus flower ............cccsseecceceeeseceeceeseeee ceeeea nents 321 
Figure 69, bouvardia bloom .......0. 6. ce ceeeeecseeeeeceeea sees seceeueesaea eee 335 
Figure 70, lantana Mower .........s:.ccseeeeseeenens wataetee Rim cluahpuamiannrss 838 


INTRODUCTION. 


Tue design of this book is to furnish the Canadian cultivator 
with a reliable guide in all matters relating to the cultivation of 
fruit, flowers and vegetables in our climate. It is the result of 
many years of experience and careful observation, in which the 
fruits that can be most generally grown in Canada have been the 
subject of special study. Many hundreds of varieties of the 
several kinds of fruits have been actually grown by the writer, 
and. their value for cultivation in our climate thoroughly studied 
and tested. To this has been added the valuable information 
derived from a wide-spread correspondence with horticulturists 
in different parts of the Provinces, thus putting the writer in 
possession of the experience of others, in the several departments 
of horticulture, throughout the Dominion. Hitherto there has 
been no work devoted to these subjects which has been written 
by a Canadian, embodying his own actual experience and obser- 
vation in these matters, and which Canadians could rely upon 
as adapted to their own peculiar necessities, and consult in all 
these interests of the fruit, flower and vegetable garden, with 
confidence, as embodying the experience of a practical man in 
these departments, who knows their peculiar position and wants 
from personal participation in their difficulties. In the hope of 
meeting these wants, and of helping some of my countrymen in 
their horticultural labors, these pages have been written, and are 
now offered to all who love good fruit, pretty flowers, and choice 
vegetables. 


THE PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES. 


Ir is now generally understood that the several varieties of 
our different fruit trees can not be propagated by planting the 
seeds of any particular sort, but that the only method of increas- 
ing the number of trees of any variety of fruit, is by propagating 
portions of that tree which we wish to multiply. Sometimes a 
small portion of a young branch, cut off from the tree, can be 
planted in the ground and made to take root, and grow, and 
increase in size, until it becomes as large as the parent tree. But 
this is not generally the case with apple, pear, plum, cherry or peach 
trees, and in the few instances of the varieties that will thus root 
from cuttings most freely, they grow slowly, and rarely make a 
strong, healthy and vigorous tree. To meet this difficulty, recourse 
is had to the operations known as grafting and budding. By this 
means one or more wood-producing buds are taken from the tree 
which we wish to multiply, and are so connected with a living 
root, that the bud is supplied by this root with the sap which 
nourishes it, and enables it to expand, and grow, and eventually 
form, according to the will of the cultivator, either a branch or 
an entire tree. In grafting, we take a young branch, having 
usually, three well developed wood buds, and insert this either 
into the body or branch of another tree; but in budding, we cut 
out only a single bud, and insert this under the bark of another 

“tree, that we wish to make bear fruit of the sort borne by the 
tree from whence the bud was taken. 

Grartine.—There are several methods of grafting, but for all 
practical purposes we may confine our attention to the two 
methods known as cleft-grafting and whip-grafting. Cleft- 
grafting is practised when the stock into which the grafts are to 
be inserted is much larger, that is, of much greater diameter than 
the scion. Whip-grafting, sometimes called splice-grafting, is 
performed when the graft and stock are nearly of the same size. 


6 THE PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES. 


From this it will be seen that 

CLert-crartine is to be adopted when a large tree is to be 
grafted over. This is done by cutting off the branch horizontally 
with a fine saw, and then carefully paring the stump quite smooth 
with asharp knife. The reason for using the knife is, that a smooth 
cut will heal over more readily than the rough cut of even the finest 
saw. Thestump is then split or cleft about two inches deep with 
a splitting knife and hammer. Now the lower end of the scion is 
cutinto the form of a wedge with a very sharp, thin-bladed knife, 
taking care to make one side of the wedge a little thinner than 
the other, and the wedge-cut an inch or inch and a half in length. 
Cut off the top of the scion just above a 
bud, leaving it usually three buds in length. 
Open the cleft made in the stock by driving 
a wedge into the split at the heart of the 
stump ; this will prevent bruising the bark, 
and leave free room for the insertion of the 
scion. The scion should now be carefully 
pushed down into the split, with the thicker 
side of the wedge towards the outside, and 
having the inner bark of the scion fitting as 
exactly as possible with the inner bark of the 
cleft. The circulation of the sap is carried on 
Fic. Fic. 2. through the inner bark, and as the bark of 
the large tree or stock is usually much thicker than the bark of 
the scion, if the outer surfaces of the bark are made to fit, it will 
often be impossible for the ascending sap of the tree to flow into 
the scion. It is only when the ascending sap of the stock flows 
into, and sustains the life of the scion, that it will be able to put 
forth leaves, and elaborate that sap, and send down the woody 
fibre which shall firmly unite the scion with the stock, and estab- 
lish permanently a vital connection between the graft and the 
tree. When the stump is large, two scions should be inserted, 
each being made to fit exactly at the inner bark. This will ma- 
terially aid in healing over the wound, if both should grow, while 


THE PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES 7 


it increases the chances of success in making at least one to live. 
After the scions have been inserted the wedge should be with- 
drawn, thus allowing the cleft to close tightly upon the scions, 
and hold them firmly in place. If the outer edge of the wedge- 
like portion of the scions has been made slightly thicker than the 
inner, the bark of the stock will be pressed closely and firmly to 
the bark of the scions. Nothing further remains to be done but 
to cover the wounds that have been made with something that 
will exclude the air, and keep it excluded until the union is 
established and the wounds are healed over. Many substances 
have been used for this purpose, such as clay, cow-dung mixed 
with clay, wax, waxed strips of cloth, varnish, &c., but it mat- 
ters not what is used so long as the end sought is attained. The 
most convenient material is 

GraFtinc Wax, which is made by melting together two parts 
of beef tallow, two parts of beeswax and four parts of clear trans- 
parent resin, and when quite thoroughly commingled poured into 
cold water and pulled and worked, as in making shoemakers’ wax 
or molasses candy. , If the weather be cool when the grafting is 
performed it will be necessary to keep the grafting wax in warm 
water, so that it may be sufficiently soft to adhere well to the tree. 
Itis of great importance to press the wax closely to all the wounded 
parts, so that it shall not crack off, covering the cleft and the ex- 
posed part of the scion in the cleft at the side, and covering the top 
of the stump between the two scions, if there be two, pressing it 
carefully and closely around the graft, and covering with the wax 
every wounded portion of stock and scion. In doing this, care 
must be taken not to displace the graft in the least, for if that be 
moved out of its place, the most careful waxing will not make it 
grow. Ifthe weather be so warm that the grafting wax becomes 
too soft to handle conveniently, it will be advantageous to keep 
it in a dish of cold water. To prevent the wax adhering to the 
hands, they should be greased with a little lard. The grafter will 
find it convenient to insert all the grafts he intends to put in the 
tree upon which he is operating before he commences putting on 


8 THE PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES. 


the wax, and then wax the whole. This will enable him to keep 
his hands clean and free from grease while he is putting in the 
scions. 

In grafting a large tree, it is advisable not to cut off all the 
limbs in one season, even if it is intended eventually to graft 
them all. If they are all cut off and grafted at once, there will 
not be sufficient foliage formed by the grafts to elaborate the sap 
that will ascend from the roots, thereby causing an unhealthy 
condition, which often results in permanent disease and prema- 
ture decay. The proper way is to graft not more than two-thirds 
of the branches the first season, and if the scions have made a 
good growth so as to furnish a good supply of foliage, then the 
remaining branches may be cut away and grafted the next year. 


If, however, the scions have made but a feeble growth, it is - - - 


best to graft but a portion of the remaining branches, leaving a 
few to the subsequent season. 

It is best to graft the top and upper branches first, so that 
the scions may not be shaded, and because the flow of sap is 
strongest towards the higher branches, and these, if left on the 
tree, would rob the scions set in the lower branches. If. both 
the scions grow that were put into one branch of the tree, select 
the one that promises to be the more vigorous, and partly cut 
back the other during the month of August, or, if you prefer, 
at the next spring’s pruning, so as to give the stronger one full 
room to grow, while you use the other to help heal over the 
stump, into which they were inserted, until such time as it can 
be cut away altogether. Do not be too anxious to remove all 
the sprouts that will start: if they seem to choke the graft, cut 
such back, but not wholly off; and only remove them entirely 
when the graft has become a branch. 

For a better understanding of this mode of grafting, study 
the drawings on page 6. Figure 1 shows the graft ready for 
insertion ; and Figure 2, the cleft stock with the scions in place, 

The proper time for grafting large trees is in the spring, after 
the sap has begun to move and the buds to swell. If it be pos- 


THE PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES. 9 


sible, choose a mild, cloudy day, with but little wind, for the 
wind and sun dry the fresh-cut wood of both ‘stock and scion 
rapidly,: which is to be avoided whenever practicable, and always 
as much as possible, by covering the wounds with grafting wax 
the more promptly in drying weather. 

The tree to be grafted should be in a healthy and vigorous 
state ; if not in such a condition the scion is less likely to live, 
and if it lives will make but a feeble growth. Such a tree should 
be prepared. for grafting by thinning out the branches, and top 
dressing the roots with a liberal supply of manure ; then, after it 
has exhibited signs of returning vigor in improved appearance of 
foliage and stronger shoots, it can be grafted with much better 
prospect of success. 

Wuip-GraFtine is performed when the scion and stock are 
aearly of the same size. This method is the one most eae 
practised. by nurserymen in growing trees for market, 
and will be used by the farmer or amateur only 
when grafting the small branches of young trees. 
To graft in this way, use a very sharp, thin-bladed 
knife, and with it make a smooth, sloping cut 
upwards on the stock and downwards on the scion, 
then form a tongue on each by making a thin up- 
ward cleft on the scion and downward on the stock. 
Now place these sloping cuts together and press the 
tongue of the scion into the cleft of the stock and 
the tongue of the stock into the cleft of the scion, 
taking care that the inner bark of the scion, on one 
side at least, exactly fits with the inner bark of the 
stock. If the scion have been well chosen with 
reference to the size of the stock, the bark can be re. 3. 
made to fit on both sides, but though this is to be desired when- 
ever practicable, it is not essential to success, for if the barks 
correspond on one side, circulation will be established through 
them between the stock and the scion, and the union between 
them be cemented. After thus uniting the graft and stock, it is 


10 THE PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES. 


ee to fasten them, by tying with bass-matting or cotton 
yarn, or a narrow strip of thin 
cotton cloth. This is usually 
done by carefully winding around 
both stock and scion, where uni- 
ted, a narrow strip of thin cotton 
cloth, or even thin paper or cot- 
ton yarn, which -has been cover- 
ed or saturated with grafting wax. 
When this is neatly done there 
is no need of any knot, the wax 
holding the ligature in its place. 
In grafting branches of trees in 
this way, care must be taken to 
| mH exclude perfectly air and water 
Fis. 4, Fic. 6. Fie. 3, from the wounded parts. When 
nurserymen propagate trees in this way, they select strong and. 
vigorous seedlings, which they pack away in the cellar in moist 
sand before the ground freezes; these they graft with scions of 
any desired variety at their leisure, 
during the months of January, Febru- 
ary or March, and as soon as grafted 
pack the grafts in boxes of sand or moist 
sawdust, and store them in the cellar 
until ready to plant them in the ground 
in the spring. When planted out, the 
place of union between the stock and 
scion is wholly under ground, and being 
in this way protected from the sun and 
air by the surrounding soil, it is not ne- mt iy, 
cessary to be so particular to cover the re. 7. Fis. 64 
union with grafting wax as in the case of top grafting, where the 
whole is exposed to all the changes and influences of the atmos- 
phere. It is a common practice with nurserymen to wind 
cotton yar into medium sized balls and boil them in a composi- 


THE PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES. 11 


tion formed by melting together three pounds of resin, a pound 
and a quarter of lard and a pound and a half of beeswax. The 
balls are taken out while hot and allowed to drain, and when 
cool are ready for use. The graft is taken in-one hand by the 
root, with the other the end of the string is laid on the lower end 
of the lap of the scion, and by twizling the graft in the fingers 
the thread is wound tightly round both stock and scion at the 
place of union sufficiently often to hold the parts together firmly, 
and then the thread is broken off. The wax holds the stzing in 
place without any tying, while it also preserves the thread from 
rotting until the union is perfected, and the expansion of growth 
causes it gradually to give way. 

By consulting the engravings this method of grafting will be 
teadily understood. Figure 3, page 9, shows the sloping cut made 
upon the stock and scion. Figure 4, page 10, shows the cleft made 
in them to form the tongue. Figure 5 shows them put together. 
Figure 6 shows the graft tied with a strip of bass-matting or 
cotton cloth. Figure 7 shows the same covered with wax to 
protect the union from the weather, and Figure 8 shows the 
graft neatly wound with a strip of waxed cotton or paper. 

THE WAXED CLOTH or paper is prepared by dipping the cloth 
or paper into the same preparation as that in which the balls of 
cotton yarn are boiled, when itis quite hot, and then drawing 
the sheet between a couple of sticks, so as to scrape off the super- 
flnous wax, and when cold, cutting it into strips of the required 
width. Many use these strips in cleft-grafting, instead of the 
pure wax. Sometimes when the cloth or paper is too strong, it 
does not give way under the growth of the tree, and requires to 
be cut or removed, in order to prevent it from binding and injuring 
the tree. 

Sorons should be selected from healthy trees, and should be 
cut from the thrifty, well ripened shoots of the last season’s 
growth. In this climate, it is safest to cut them in November, 
before the severe frosts of winter. Sometimes the cold of the 
winter is so severe that the young wood is injured. If not cut 


12 THE PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES. 


in November, it is better to wait until early in April, after the 
shoots have had an opportunity to recover from the severe freez 
ing. They should never be cut from the tree when they are 
frozen. When cut, they should be packed in a box with damp 
moss, or sawdust placed in the bottom of the box and over them 
after they are put in. There should be enough moss or sawdust 
to prevent the scions from drying out or shrivelling. They 
should then be stored in the cellar, where they will be kept cool 
and damp, and free from frost. If there be plenty of moss or 
sawdust the scions will be preserved quite fresh without any fur- 
ther attention ; and if, when taken out for use, they seem to be 
mouldy, there need be no cause for apprehension, if, on wiping it 
off, the bark looks bright and fresh. Experience has taught us that 
this mould does not injure scions. There is danger, however, 
of keeping scions too wet. The material in which they are 
packed should be damp only, not filled with water. A scion that 
has been soaked will not grow. They have been known to fail 
wholly, after standing for a few weeks with the butt-end in shal- 
low water. The thihg to be aimed at, is to keep the grafts as 
near as possible in the same condition as when first cut. In 
using the scions, reject the portion at the butt, as far as the buds 
seem small and imperfectly developed, and likewise the tip, as 
far as the wood seems soft and spongy. 

Bunpp1n¢, or as it is sometimes called, inoculation, is the other 
method by which any given variety of fruit is perpetuated and 
multiplied, and in its effects and principles of operation is only 
another mode of grafting. In both cases, a bud of the variety 
we desire to propagate is brought into a living union with another 
root, and made to form the top and branches and fruit-producing 
portion of the tree. In grafting, we use a branch with several 
buds and considerable wood ; but in budding we use only a sin- 
gle bud, with a very small portion of bark, and less wood. 

There are some advantages in budding, as compared with 
grafting, when the stocks are small, as is the case in nurserymen’s 
operations ; but when the stocks have already become trees, as is 
usually the case with the farmer and amateur, grafting is the 


THE PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES. 13 


more convenient method, and generally more successful. When 
small stocks, of one or two seasons’ growth, are used, budding is 
often more convenient, because the operation can be performed 
in midsummer, when the hurry of spring work has passed, and in 
case of failure, can, in many instances, be repeated the same sea- 
son. Experience has also taught us that in our climate the graft- 

_ ing of stone fruits is attended with considerable uncertainty, and 
requires to be done with great nicety and skill, while budding is . 
almost uniformly successful. 

Tux szason for budding is from July to September, and yet 
the best time, the time when the operation is most likely to be 
successful, is variable. The farmer does not cut his grain because 
a certain day of the month has arrived, but when the grain has 
reached that state of maturity which he has learned by experi- 
ence to be the time when he will secure the grain in its best 
condition. So in budding, the best time is that in which the 
bud will most speedily and certainly unite with the stock, and 
experience has taught us that this is while the stock is in a grow- 
ing state, so that the bark will separate freely from the wood, and 
yet when the activity of growth is somewhat diminished, which 
time is indicated by the formation of the terminal bud. At this 
stage also, the sap under the bark will have thickened and become 
viscid or sticky, forming what botanists term the cambium. 
This condition of the stock is the most favorable time for bud- 
ding, and as a rule it will be found that Plum stocks reach it the 
earliest in the season, then follow Pear, Quince, Apple, Cherry 
and Peach stocks, in the order in which they are named. It will 
be readily understood that the time, when this condition of the 
stock will be attained, will be very materially influenced by the 
character of the season, the temperature, moisture, and the like. 
A cool, moist season, will protract the period of growth and post- 
pone the period when the cambium begins to form, while a hot 
and dry season will shorten the growth and hasten maturity. A 
little experience will teach the operator the fitting moment, the 
general features of which only can be indicated in written 
directions. 


14 THE PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES. 


THE SELECTION oF Scions, from which the buds are to be 
taken, also requires the exercise of some judgment. Those are 
best that have formed their terminal bud, but as these 
are not always to be had, those which have begun to 
ripen their wood and have well developed buds should 
be selected, and the very green portion towards the 
extremity, where the buds are but partially formed, cut 
away. As soon as the scion has been cut from the tree, 
the leaves, with about half of the leaf-stalk, should be 
cut off, and the scion wrapped in a cloth of sufficient 
thickness to protect it from the sun and air. If the 
cloth be moistened it will be of advantage in keeping 
the scions cool, but they should never be soaked in a 
very wet cloth, much less in a vessel of water. Figure 

Fic. 9. 9 represents a scion which has been cut from the tree, 
with the leaves and a part of the leaf stalk removed, and showing 
the buds which are to be used in budding. 

j THe OpERatTion or Buppine is performed by se- 
i lecting a smooth place in the stock, and with a sharp, 
thin-bladed budding-knife, (figure 10 shows the best 
form of budding knife, although any sharp 
thin-bladed knife may be used) make first 
a horizontal cut, just deep enough to cut 
through the bark, and then from the centre 
of this make a perpendicular cut of the same 
depth, the two cuts having the form of a 
| T. Figure 12 shows the slits made in the 

| bark. If the stock be small, that is, one or 
two years of age, the proper place for insert- 
ing the bud is as near the ground as can 
} conveniently be done, and, if possible, the 
| south side is to be avoided on account of 
|| its greater exposure to the sun. Could we ‘Wi 
have everything just the most favorable pos- mye. 19, 

sible, we would select also a cool, cloudy day for the- 


THE PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES. 15 


operation. After having made the incisions in the bark as 
just described, hold the scion or stick of buds in the left hand, 
and cut out one of the buds, together with a strip of the bark 
and a very thin slice of the wood, beginning to cut about half 
an inch above the bud, and bringing the knife out about half an 
inch below the bud. Figure 11 represents a bud cut from the 
scion and ready for insertion. If the wood be very ripe and hand, 
the slice of wood should be exceedingly thin in- } 
deed, but if the wood be green and soft, the thick- 
ness of the slice of wood may be increased in pro- 
portion to its greenness, but never to exceed one- 
third of the thickness of the stick or scion. Now 
with the rounded part of the blade of the bud- 
ding knife gently raise the bark of the stock at 
the corners, and holding the bud by the leaf- 
stalk, insert the lower end under the bark, and 
slide it down the perpendicular slit, until the 
upper end of the bark of the bud coincides with Fie. 11, Fie. 13. 
the cross cut or horizontal cut of the T. If a little of the 
bark of the bud extends above the cross cut, it may be cut off 
with the budding knife, so as to form a square shoulder, exactly 
fitting to the bark of the stock above. In practice it is most 
convenient to hold the bud between the forefinger and thumb of 
the left hand, and at the same time that the corners of the bark 
are raised with the right, hand, insert the lower end of the bark 
of the bud under the raised bark. Figure 13 shows the bud in 
place. After the bud has been inserted it should be tied in its 
place by winding around the stock a strip of bass-matting that has 
been previously moistened in water to make it soft or pliable, or 
woollen or cotton yarn will answer very well, taking care to cover 
all the wound, leaving only the bud with its foot stalk projecting. 
It is better to begin to wind at the lower end and proceed up- 
wards, winding the ligature as smoothly and neatly as possible, 
yet firm and close, so that the bud may be kept in place and the 
bark smooth and snug to the stock. Figure 14 represents the 


16 THE PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES. 


whole complete with the ligature tied around. Care should be 
had, in raising the bark of the stock, to avoid disturbing the 
eambium, the soft, mucilaginous secretion lying next to the wood 
of the stock. 

Tae Arter TREATMENT of the bud consists in 
removing the ligature as soon as it- begins to bind 
too tightly around the stock. In from twelve to 
fourteen days the bud should be examined, and if it 
appears plump and fresh it has probably begun to 
unite with the stock, but if it has shrivelled it is 
dead. If the stock will yet peel, it may be rebud- 
li, ded at once. If the stock has swelled much, so as 

Fic. 14, to tighten the ligature, it may be loosened and re-tied, 
but, in common practice, where budding is done on an extended 
scale, the ligature is cut when the growth of the stock is such 
that the bark swells around the ligature. A little practice will 
enable the operator to decide when it is necessary to remove the 
string. Usually it is in about four weeks from the time the bud 
is put in, but the time will vary according to growth of the 
stock. Cherry and peach stocks usually swell more rapidly than 
apple or pear. Sdmetimes the strings are left on all winter, par- 
ticularly if the budding has been done late in the season ; but in 
our climate this practice is not to be recommended ; the band 
retains moisture, and in cold weather gathers ice about the bud. 

In the following spring the stock should be headed back to 
within about three inches of the bud as soon as the buds begin 
to start. This will cause all the buds remaining on the stock to 
push vigorously, and as soon as the inserted bud begins to grow 
all the natural buds must be rubbed off, and kept rubbed off 
from time to time, as often as they start. This is done so that 
all the sap may be thrown into the inserted bud, and its growth 
promoted. As soon as it has grown a few inches in length it will 
probably require tying to the stock, so as to keep it upright. In 
doing this the string or band should not be wound around the 
growing shoot, but merely passed round it and tied around the 


THE PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES. 17 


stock, forming a loop within which the growing shoot has room 
to expand, the string touching it only on one side, the side of 
the shoot farthest from the stock. Figure 15 represents a growing 
bud tied to the stock. In the month of Julythe bud will aye 
acquired sufficient strength to enable it to stand erect : 
without the aid of any support from the stock. The 
stock should now be cut back down to the bud. 
The pruning knife used for this should be both 
strong and sharp, and placing the edge against the 
stock on the side opposite the bud, with a sloping 
cut, drawing the knife upwards and towards the 
bud, the stock should be cut smoothly off in such 
a way that there shall be not a particle of the stock 
left above the bud. The white line across the stock, 
‘Figure 15, shows the place where the cut should 
be made, thus taking off all that part of the stock ye 
above the white line. Fig, 15. 

Budding may be performed in the spring, by keeping the 
scions in a cool place where the buds will not start, and inserting 
them in the stock after growth has commenced, but it is seldom 
practised in this country, because success is not as certain, and 
for want of time at a season when so many things require atten- 
tion. 

Some cultivators have found it advantageous in budding 
plums, in particular, in which the upper part of the bud fre- 
quently dies although the lower part has united with the stock, 
to use two separate ligatures in tying, covering the part below the 
bud with one bandage, and the part above with the other. As 
soon as the bud seems to have taken, the lower bandage is re- 
moved, but the other is allowed to remain for two or three weeks 
longer, which arrests the downward sap and perfects the union 
the upper part of the bud with the stock. 


18 PRUNING OF FRUIT TREES. 


PRUNING OF FRUIT TREES. 


When is the Best Time for pruning fruit trees, is a question 
often asked, to which the reply of an old gardener was more 
appropriate than polite, who answered “whenever your knife is 
sharp.” If fruit trees are properly attended to and pruned every 
year as much as is requisite, they will need but very little 


pruning at any time, and it is not of much moment when that 


little is done. Tho words of the lamented Downing should be 
graven upon the memory of every one who takes knife in hand 
against his fruit trees. He says, “A judicious pruning, to modify 
the form of our standard trees, is nearly all that is required in 
ordinary practice. Every fruit tree, grown in the open orchard 
or garden as a common standard, should be allowed to take its 
natural form, the whole efforts of the pruner going no further 
than to take out all weak and crowded branches, those which are 
filling uselessly the interior of the tree, where their leaves cannot 
be duly exposed to the light and sun, or those which interfere 
with the growth of others. All pruning of large branches in 
healthy trees should be rendered unnecessary, by examining them. 
every seagon, and taking out superfluous shoots while they are 
small.” 

Yet there is a best time for pruning, and that time depends 
upon the object for which the pruning is done. The two pur- 
poses most commonly intended are all that it will be necessary 
here to speak of, namely, pruning to regulate the form of standard 
trees, and pruning to induce fruitfulness. 

In PRUNING TO REGULATE THE FoRM of standard trees, if 
the trees have been properly cared for every year, it will only be 
necessary to remove small branches, and this may be best done 
in our climate after the severe frosty weather of our winters is 
passed, and before the sap is in full flow. This will be in March 
or early in April, varying with the season and locality. If done 
at this time, the sap will not have fully ascended into the branch 
that is taken away, and will be directed into the remaining por- 


PRUNING OF FRUIT TREES. 19 


tions of the tree; if the pruning be done after the sap has 
ascended, it will be measurably lost to the tree. If the pruning 
be done before the severe winter frosts are over, experience has 
taught us that the frost so affects the tree through the wounds, 
especially if they be large and numerous, as to impair its health 
and vigor. But if the pruning has been neglected, and there are 
large branches to be removed, it is best done just after the trees 
have made their first growth and are taking what has been termed 
their midsummer rest, which is in July or August in our climate. 
It has been found that if large branches are taken off at this 
time the wood remains sound, whereas, if taken off in the spring, 
particularly if the sap is circulating freely, the wood is apt to 
decay, and though it may heal over, the part always remains 
unsound. Yet some caution is needed here, lest too many large 
branches be removed in one summer, and the vigor of the tree 
receive too severe a check. Summer pruning tends to lessen the 
vigor of a tree, and though we advise the removal of large 
branches at this season because it is better somewhat to check 
the growth of the tree than to risk the decay of the trunk, yet 
judgment should be used, lest this be carried too far. When 
large limbs are removed it is always advisable to use a fine saw, 
and after smoothing the cut with a sharp knife, to cover the 
wound with some preparation that will protect it from the 
weather. Common grafting wax, or a mixture of fresh cow dung 
and clay, may be used; but the most convenient preparation for 
this purpose is made by dissolving gum shellac in alcohol until 
the solution is of the consistence of ordinary paint. This may 
be applied with a common paint brush and kept in a wide- 
mouthed bottle, which should be kept well corked. Thus applied 
to the wounds, it soon hardens and forms a coating that is not 
affected by changes of weather, yet adheres closely and com- 
pletely excludes air and moisture, and at the same time does not 
interfere with the growth of the bark over the wound. 

There is also a right place at which to make the cut in 
removing entire branches ; if cut farther from the tree than this 


20 PRUNING OF FRUIT TREES. 


point, a portion of the branch remains, which not only gives the 
tree an unsightly appearance, but which is very sure ta throw out: 
sprouts; and if cut closer to the tree, an unne- 
cessarily larger wound is made, which requires 
more time to heal over. It may be noticed that 
where a branch unites with the main body there 
is a shoulder or slight enlargement. This shoul- 
der is shown in Figure 16, and the line indicates 
| the place at which the cut should be made. It 

Fre. 16. is at the point where the branch unites with 
this shoulder, so that the shoulder, or slight protuberance at the 
bass of the branch, is left on the tree, and the wound made in 
7 cutting is no larger than the diameter of the branch. 
Also in cutting back small branches care should be 
taken to cut them off just above the bud, not so close 
as to injure the bud, nor so far from it as to leave a, 
' long spur of wood. Figure 17 represents a branch 
cut back too far from the bud. Figure 18, a branch. 
cut too close to the bud; and Figure 19, one that is 
cut as it should be. The cut should be made so that 
the point of the bud will coincide with the edge of 
the cut. Such a cut will heal over sooner than any other, and 
the bud at the point will grow vigorously. 

’ The form of standard trees will need only 
such modification as may be requisite to admit 
a free circulation of air through the branches, ff 
and sufficient light and heat to ensure the full- 
est development of the fruit. If the top ofa 

‘tree is permitted to become a thicket of 
branches, it is quite obvious that some parts 
will be too crowded, the air can circulate but © 
Fie. 18. imperfectly, and the sunlight is wholly ex- Fre. 19. 
cluded. In consequence of this, much of the fruit will be below 
the normal size of the variety, but partially colored, and very 
deticient in flavor. This can be remedied by judicious pruning, 


PRUNING OF FRUIT TREES. 21 


removing some of the branches from the interior, and keeping 
the head open to the light and air. On the other hand, prun- 
ing can be carried too far, especially by removing so much of 
the foliage as to leave the nearly horizontal limbs exposed to the 
full blaze of a nearly vertical sun. The evil effects of this are 
seen in the death of the bark on the upper side of the large 
branches thus exposed; the circulation is impeded, and the 
tree often assumes a stunted and sickly appearance. The pruner, 
then, must use his own judgment, and adapt his pruning to the 
special circumstances of his own case. An orchard that is exposed 
to the sweep of high winds will not suffer from want of circulation 
of air as one that is sheltered, and, if pruned as would be desira- 
ble for the sheltered orchard, might suffer for the want of that 
protection which the branches afford each other. So then, it is 
possible only to point out the objects to be sought, and leave to 
each one the carrying out of the particular amount of pruning, and 
the details of the work in his own orchard, in the exercise of 
those reasoning powers which will enable him to so shape his 
trees that foliage and fruit shall be fully developed in the great- 
est abundance. And in this exercise of the judgment lies the 
true secret of excellence. 

Pruyine to Inpucz FRUITFULNESS, is sometimes desirable 
in the case of trees of very vigorous habit, and that are tardy in 
coming into bearing. This pruning is applied not only to the 
branches, but also to the roots. The root-pruning simply consists 
in cutting off a portion of the roots, thereby lessening the quan- 
tity of nourishment derived from the soil. Itis done in autumn, 
by digging a trench about eighteen inches deep around the tree, 
with a sharp spade, cutting off the roots that reach the trench. 
The distance that this trench should be from the trunk will vary 
according to the size of the tree, taking care that it be so far as 
not to cut off too many and too large roots. The digging of such 
a trench once will usually so check the wood growth that the 
tree will form fruit-buds, and set its fruit. After having 
thus thrown the tree into bearing, it is usually necessary to sup- 


22 TRANSPLANTING. 


ply the tree with a little well-rotted manure, in order to keep it 
in sufficient health and vigor to perfect its fruit. The pruning 
of the branches for this purpose is performed in midsummer, and 
is not so much a cutting as a pinching off of the tender end of 
the shoots with thumb and finger. This checks the growth of 
the shoot, and concentrates the sap in the remaining part of the 
branch, thus inducing the formation of fruit buds. At least this 
is the tendency, and the operation usually produces, in a greater 
or less degree, the desired effect. But it sometimes happens 
that the tree is growing so vigorously that the buds will break 
and form shoots. "When this is the case, recourse may be had to 
root-pruning; or by bending down the branches and fastening 
them in a perfectly horizontal position, or even curving them 
‘downwards, such a check will be given to the flow of sap that 
fruit buds will be formed. When a tree is growing rapidly it 
can not produce much fruit, and it is only when this wood-pro- 
ducing energy has expended itself by the completion of the 
growth of the tree, or has been checked artificially, that abun- 
dance of fruit will be produced. By this it will be seen that the 
formation of much wood is antagonistic to the formation of much 
fruit, and that whatever will lessen the wood growth, without 
injury to the health of the tree, will increase the production of 
fruit. A top-dressing of coarse salt, sown broadcast, at the rate 
of two bushels to the acre, has been found to increase the fruit- 
fulness of some orchards. ¢ 


TRANSPLANTING. 


Deciduous trees can be best transplanted after the fall of the 
leaf in autumn, and before the putting forth of leaves in the 
spring. In mild climates and dry soils the autumn is the best 
season for transplanting. This gives an opportunity to the 
wounded roots to heal, and the soil to settle firmly about the 
tree during the early part of the winter, and the tree is ready at 
the first approach of warm weather to push out its rootlets into 


TRANSPLANTING. 23 


the soil and commence its growth for the season. But in those 
portions of our Dominion where the ground freezes early, and 
remains frozen all winter to as great or even greater depth than 
the roots of the newly planted tree extend, it is impossible that 
any such healing process should take place in the roots, and if 
the soil in which it is planted be of a very retentive character, 
water is apt to collect about the roots in the imperfectly settled 
earth, and in a greater or less degree prove injurious to the tree. 
Owing to these causesispring-planting has been found to be more 
generally successful in those parts of Canada, where the ground 
is not well protected with snow, than fall. / Yet there are reasons 
which sometimes counterbalance all these difficulties, and make it 
on the whole preferable to transplant the trees in the fall. There 
may be more leisure in the fall, or it may be more convenient to 
obtain the trees then, or the distance from the nurseries may be 
so great, that by the time trees can be procured in the spring the 
season is too far advanced. From whatever cause the planter 
may decide to set his trees in the fall, if he will only take care 
that they do not suffer from water standing about the roots, and 
that in some way he protects the roots from severe freezing, they 
will usually pass the winter safely and grow well. This is very 
easily accomplished by raising a considerable mound of earth 
around the tree after it is planted, which serves to keep the tree 
from being rocked about by the wind, sheds off the rain and 
melting snow, and in some measure keeps out the frost. In the 
spring, before the dry weather sets in, this mound should be 
levelled off and the ground mulched as in spring planting. 
PREPARING THE soIL for the reception of trees does not 
receive that attention which its importance demands. If the 
ground has been well prepared, the growth of the trees will fully 
compensate for the labor. An excellent method of preparation 
is to summer-fallow the ground, giving it frequent ploughings 
and stirrings, so that it may be thoroughly pulverized. If it 
need manure, it should be put on in a well-rotted condition, as 
for a crop of grain, and thoroughly mixed and incorporated with 


O94 TRANSPLANTING. 


the soil. If the whole ground be made thus mellow and rich 
before the trees are planted, they will live and make a good 
growth the first season; but if planted in hard soil, very often in 
a sod, no wonder that many of them die, and that those which 
live make a starved and'sickly growth. Many persons, after 
preparing the ground in this way, think they cannot afford to 
lose so much labor just for an orchard, and so, as a matter of 
economy, they sow wheat or rye or some other grain, and plant 
their young trees in the grain. This is, beyond question, a false 
economy ; but, if it must be done, let no grain grow within four 
feet of any tree. The grain will absorb the rains and dews and 
moisture that the young tree needs, and so rob the tree of its 
necessary nourishment, for trees can take up nourishment only-in 
a liquid form. The writer was requested by a neighbor to 
examine his young orchard, which, he said, seemed to be all 
dying, and he was unable to account for it. The orchard bad 
been planted the year before, in good rich soil, which was well 
drained, and had been made perfectly mellow, and the trees had 
not only lived but made a very fine growth. But this year, since 
the hot weather had set in, the leaves had begun to wilt and 
wither, and some of them to turn yellow, and the young shoots 
to shrivel and dry up. On arriving at the orchard, the trees were 
found standing in a field of most luxuriant rye, reaching, in many 
places, quite into the branches of the trees. It was at once 
recommended that the rye should be pulled up around the trees, 
so that there should be a circle of eight feet in diameter left clear 
around each tree, and that the rye so pulled up be spread on the 
ground around the trees as a mulch. This was done, and the 
trouble was at once arrested ; many of the trees revived wholly, 
some lost only the ends of the young shoots that had become too 
much wilted to survive, while a few of the trees had already 
suffered so much that they were past all recovery. 

Another thing that must not be overlooked in the preparation 
of the ground is dramage. Fruit trees cannot grow in water, and 
care must be taken to draw off all stagnant water not only from 


TRANSPLANTING. 25 


the surface soil, but from the subsoil. Much can be done to 
effect this by ploughing the ground into lands of the same width 
as the intended space between the rows of trees. By repeated 
ploughings, turning the furrow always towards the centre of the 
land, the ground may be thrown up to the required height, and 
the trees planted along the middle of each land. This method 
will be found particularly beneficial where the ground is naturally 
level, or the subsoil cold and sterile. A naturally rolling surface, 
with a porous subsoil, is to be preferred for fruit trees wherever 
it can be had. 

-” Tn Prantine, the trees should not be set into the cold and 
barren sub-soil, but if the surface soil be too shallow to receive 
the roots, it is better to throw the earth up around the tree so as 
to cover the roots to the proper depth and keep them in the mel- 
low and fertile soil. Trees have been planted where the surface 
soil is thin, by spreading out the roots on the surface of the 
ground and covering them with earth, and they lived and grew 
well, whereas, if they had been planted in holes dug in the ordi- 
nary way they would never have been worth anything. It is a 
common error to plant trees too deep. They should not be set 
‘so as to stand any deeper after the ground has become settled 
than they stood in the nursery. The holes should be dug large 
enough in diameter to admit of the roots being spread out in 
their natural position, not coiled up or turned up at the ends, 
and the soil in the bottom of the hole should be loosened up and 
made crowning in the centre; upon this the tree should be set, 
and the roots spread out in a natural way. The rich and thor- 
oughly pulverized surface soil should be carefully filled in, and 
worked with the fingers among the roots, and pressed down 
gently with the foot. When all is complete the surface should be 
left Ioose and friable, not trodden hard, as is often done, and 
should be made nearly level with the surrounding soil, if the 
planting be done in the spring ;}but if it be done in the fall, make 
mound of earth over the roots and around the stem of the tree, 
as already recommended. In settling the earth about the roots 


26 TRANSPLANTING. 


of the tree, do not shake it up and down or swing it about, but 
let it be held firmly in place while the earth is being placed among 
and over the roots. 

Mutcuine, by ‘which is meant the spreading of coarse manure, 
half rotted straw, or any other litter on the ground over the 
roots of the trees, will be always found of great service in keep- 
ing the ground cool and moist, and promoting the growth of 
newly transplanted trees, particularly if the succeeding summer 
should be hot and dry. There is a substitute for mulching that 
is perhaps better than a mulch, but in the hurry of summer work 
it is so sure to be neglected that the planter had better mulch his 
trees as soon after planting as possible. If, however, he will 
keep the ground loose and friable around his trees by frequently 
stirring the surface, and never allow it to become baked and hard, 
he may safely dispense with mulching. But because it is reecom- 
mended to spread coarse manure on the surface of the ground, let 
it not be therefore inferred that it is ever advisable to place fresh 
manure in the soil about the roots of the trees. It is very apt to 
kill newly planted trees, and sure to do more harm than good. 
If it is thought necessary to enrich the soil, old and perfectly 
rotted manure may be thoroughly incorporated with it, but the 
safer way is to place the manure on the surface, and let its ferti- 
lizing properties be gradually washed down by the rains. It is 
very seldom that trees which have been carefully taken up, care- 
fully planted, and well mulched, will require any WatTErive 
during the dry summer weather. If it should become necessary, 
however, to give them water, it should be done thoroughly. A 
mere moistening of the surface of the ground is worse than none 
at all. Give enough to penetrate down to where the roots lie 
and to soak the ground about them thoroughly. And now, if 
the trees have not been mulched, it should be done immediately, 
in order to prevent the evaporation of the water that has been 
given, and the baking and cracking of the earth under the rays 
of a scorching sun. If no litter can be had with which to 
mulch, effect the same result by stirring the surface a few hours 
after the water has been given, and before the sun has baked the 


TRANSPLANTING. 27 


earth. If this be not attended tc, better not to give any water 
at all, for the hot sun will only bake the earth the harder for your 
watering. 

' The TREES MOST SUITABLE FOR PLANTING are young, healthy 
trees of from two to four years’ growth. It is difficult to 
transplant large trees successfully, on account of the impossibility 
of preserving the small fibrous roots, which are most numerous 
towards the extremities of the large roots, in sufficient quantity 
to support the tree. It is through the small fibrous roots that 
the tree derives its nourishment from the ground, and, therefore, 
the more numerous they are the more likely the tree is to thrive, 
and more of these can be taken up entire in removing a small 
tree than a large one. Young trees, that have been grown in 
suitable soil and properly taken up, will be furnished with a 
good supply of roots. The best soil in which to grow young 
trees for transplanting is a good, sandy loam. They will make 
much better and more fibrous roots in such a soil than when 
grown in stiff clay, and are consequently more likely to live and 
thrive well when transplanted. Some have entertained the 
opinion that trees from a sandy soil will not thrive when 
planted in clay, and that trees from a 

clay soil will not thrive when removed | 

to sandy soil. This is a great mistake. 

A tree well supplied with fibrous roots 

will thrive in any soil, and the nurse- f 

ryman who consults the best interests 

of his customers will select a rich, 

sandy loam in which to grow his 

young trees, experience having taught 

us that in such a soil they throw out 

an abupdance of small and fibrous | 
roots.” In taking up a tree, it is im- 

possible but that some of the roots 

will be cut off, but a tree that has been 

well taken up will have something of 

the appearance shown in Fig. 20; mai. Fra 2. Fro. 20, 


28 TRANSPLANTING. 


but trees that resemble Fig. 21 have been badly dug, and those 

are worse dug that look like Fig. 22. 

“Tt may be often of great advantage to procure the trees when 
they are two years old, plant them out in a nice piece of rich, 
loamy soil, in rows four feet apart and two feet apart in the 
row. ‘Trees grown in this way, for a couple of years, make a 
splendid mass of roots, can be transplanted into orchard form at 
the owner’s convenience, and are sure to live and do well. 

Low, stout-bodied trees are much better than those that are 
tall and slerider. The diameter of the trunk of a tree is of much 
greater importance than its height. A tree that has a stout body 
is more surely healthy and well-rooted, and will be able to 
support a top and keep erect, while a tall, slender tree is apt to 
have slender, tapering roots, and is often too weak-bodied to 
sustain the top without being tied to a stake. Besides all this, 
in some parts of the country where the cold is severe, it has been 
ascertained by actual trial that stout trees, with low heads, are 
much better able to resist the cold than those which are trained 
high, with long, exposed trunks. We strongly urge upon planters 
living in the colder sections of the country to select stout, low- 
headed trees, and keep them branched low, being assured they 
will be more healthy and live longer, and yield more and finer 
fruit than when trained high. 

Trees, when received by the planter, should be kept from the 
drying effect of the sun and wind until he is ready to plant them 
out. The most convenient and effectual method is to dig a 
trench, into which the roots are placed and covered with soil. 
Here the trees can remain safely until it is convenient to plant 
them. This is called heeling-in. On taking them out for 
planting the roots should be examined, and any bruised or 
mutilated parts pared smoothly with a sharp knife, and any 
injured or broken branches pruned smoothly, or entirely removed. 
In planting, the roots should be covered with a mat or old bit of 
rug, or anything, indeed, that will keep them from getting dry, 
Heeling in may be also practised where it is not desired to plant 


TRANSPLANTING, 29 


the trees in the autumn, and it is not practicable or convenient te 
obtain the trees direct from the nursery in the spring. But in such 
cases the roots must be well secured from frost, and the tops also 
should be covered with branches of evergreens’/ Shortening \ 
the side branches and a portion of the top of the tree at the time of 
transplanting in the spring is advisable, in order to restore the 
proportions between the root and the top. Judgment must be 
exercised in this operation, keeping in mind that the object is to 
lessen the amount of foliage somewhat, because the quantity of 
roots have been lessened. As a rule, about one-third of the top, 
including the side branches, may be removed. In cutting away 
the side branches, it is better merely to cut them back, leaving 
three or four buds, instead of cutting them oif close to the body of 
the tree. The circulation through the trunk of the tree is kept up 
by the foliage that will form on these spurs, whereas, if cut off close 
to the trunk, the exposed wood seasons back into the trunk, and if 
there be many of them, seriously interferes with the circulation 
of the sap. For this reason do not cut off the small spurs and 
leaf-buds which may be on the body of the tree. They materially 
aid in keeping the body fresh and sound, and the sap in free and 
healthy circulation. After the tree has become established they 
may be removed, and then the slight-wound will rapidly heal 
over. 4 
The AFTER-TREATMENT of young orchards consists in keeping 
the ground mellow and in good heart. Doubtless the very best 
thing for the trees is to keep the ground thorouglily cultivated, 
the surface loose and friable, and free from weeds, without 
attempting to raise any crop; but this is not to be expected of 
the most of our planters, who hardly feél able to till the soil so 
thoroughly for so many years without any return. Hoed crops 
are the best to raise in an orchard, treating each tree as a part of 
Ahe crop, giving it the same manuring and cultivation as the rest. 
aie as rye, wheat, barley and oats, are not so suitable, and 
there can be nothing worse for a young orchard than to seed it 
lagen and let it - in grass to be mown or aaa J If put 
e 


30 TRANSPLANTING. 


down in grass, let it never be cut, or if cut, left to decay on the 
ground where it grew. A top dressing of lime at the rate of 
twenty bushels to the acre may be applied with benefit, especi- 
ally about the time the trees eome into bearing, to be renewed. 
every three or four years. Ashes, leached or unleached, crushed 
or ground bones, gypsum or plaster, chip manure from the old 
wood pile, horn shavings, wool waste, and occasionally a light 
coating of well rotted barn-yard manure, will all be found benefi- 
cial to the orchard, applying these in such quantities, and at such 
intervals, as will keep the orchard in a healthy condition, but not 
induce an excessive wood growth. After the trees have become 
so large as to shade most of the ground, it will no longer be pro- 
fitable to grow crops of any kind in the orchard. It may now be 
seeded down to grass, which should not be removed from the 
orchard, but suffered to remain and decay on the ground. This 
will serve as an excellent protection to the roots, and by its 
decomposition enrich the soil. A dressing of ashes, bone dust 
or plaster, should not be neglected ; it will be amply returned in 
the increased beauty, size and quantity of fruit. cae 
‘ To Prorect tHE Trees FRom Micz, which are often very 
destructive to young trees by gnawing off the bark at the surface 
of the ground, and, when they become numerous, injure even bear- 
ing trees, the trees may be painted with the following mixture, 
which is recommended by Downing. Take one spadeful of hot 
slaked lime, one of clean, fresh cow dung, half a spadeful of soot, 
and a handful of flour of sulphur ; mix the whole together with 
sufficient water to bring it to the consistence of thick paint. In 
the autumn paint the trees with this mixture from the ground to 
the highest snow line, choosing dry weather in which to apply 
it. This is a perfectly safe application, and has been proved by 
repeated trial to be entirely harmless to the tree. In those parts 
of the country where the snow is seldom deep, it has been found 
that a mound of earth raised around the tree to the height of a 
foot or so, enough to be above the ordinary level of the snow, 
will fully preserve the trees from their ravages, for they always 


SOIL AND ASPECT. 31 


work under the snow, never in open daylight. Coarse paper may 
be tied around the tree, and smeared with coal tar ; and some use 
strips of roofing-felt fastened around the tree; others, old stove 
pipe—in short, anything that will keep the mice from gnawing 
the bark. 

A WASH FOR THE TRUNKS AND BRANCHES is made by dissolving 
one pound of potash in two gallons of water. If this be applied 
with a brush or swab to the bark of the trunk and larger branches 
before the buds burst in spring, it will make it smooth and glossy, 
and is sure death to the bark-louse and all insects and their eggs 
which harbor in the crevices and under the scales of the bark. 
It is also a great preservative from the attacks of insects, and 
seems to promote the health of the tree, giving a fresh and lively 
appearance to the bark. Soft soap—that which is ropy is 
preferable to that which is like jelly—is also an excellent preserva- 
tive from insects, and may be applied by rubbing it on with a 
coarse cloth. If the bark of the tree has become very rough, it 
is necessary to scrape off the loose pieces before applying the 
wash. This can be readily done by cutting a piece, in shape like 
a new moon, out of the edge of an old hoe, which will shape the 
edge of the hoe so as to fit very nearly to the trunk of the tree. 
The soft soap is preferable to the potash wash for old trees with 
such thick and rough bark. , 


SOIL AND ASPECT. 


It is essentially necessary to the health and longevity of fruit 
trees, and the perfect development of the fruit, that the soil in 
which they are planted should be perfectly drained ; and by this 
should be understood not only the entire removal of all stagnant 
surface water, but of all stagnant water in the soil. If such a 
condition does not naturally exist, it should be secured by 
artificial means. To plant fruit trees where the roots must be 
soaked with excess of water during any long-continued period, 
can only be productive of disappointment and loss. This having 


32 SOIL AND ASPECT. 


been secured, all other questions concerning the soil are, compara- 
tively, of little moment. Soils that will produce good crops of 
grain will be found well adapted to fruit. The soils best suited 
to the several fruits will be mentioned when we come to treat of 
the different fruits separately, but for most of the fruits of our 
climate, strong calcareous loams, that is, loams in which there is 
just enough sand to make them easily worked, and which are 
abundantly supplied with limestone, are the best suited to the 
raising of fruit. 

Deep valleys, with only small streams of water, are bad 
situations for fruit trees, for the reason that, in calm nights, the 
cold air settles down in these valleys, frequently killing buds and 
blossoms, while on the adjacent hill-tops they entirely escape. 
Usually hill-sides, sloping to the west, are the best for fruit trees, 
protecting them from the rays of a bright sun after a clear frosty 
night. The borders of large rivers and lakes are favorable 
situations, large bodies of water having an ameliorating effect 
upon the temperature. Sometimes a slight mist rising from the 
water in the morning, after a frosty night, so softens the rays of 
the sun that the frost is drawn out very gradually, and the 
injurious effect of sudden thawing prevented. An aspect that is 
sheltered from the sweep of the prevailing winds by a belt of 
woodland, and particularly of evergreens, enjoys an immunity 
from extremes of cold which often prove injurious to more exposed 
orchards. As our forests fall before the axe, and the country is 
laid bare to the frost-laden winds of our Canadian winters, and 
the climate thereby becomes more harsh, the most successful fruit 
growers will be those who have sheltered their orchards by 
planting belts of evergreens, and, as strongly advised by Mr. 
Elliott, occasional evergreen trees, or clumps of them, scattered 
with judgment here and there through the orchard, and always 
so disposed as that their ameliorating effect shall be most bene- 
ficially felt by the adjacent fruit trees. Much might be writter. 
on the value of such belts and clumps of trees to every farmer ; 
on the great benefits accruing, not only to the orchard, but to the 


INSECTS. 33 


farm crops, to the stock, and to his own house — concerning 
their ameliorating influences on the temperature, on the purity 
and healthfulness of the atmosphere, on the electrical conditions 
favorable to animal and vegetable life, on the amount of rain 
and dew; but, alas, in this age of haste, an enlarged and 
enlightened policy, which takes into consideration the wants of a 
life-time, and plans with reference to the needs and comforts of 
years yet in the distance, is almost wholly lost in thoughts of 
immediate advantage. “Oh, I shall never live to reap the 
benefits of all this outlay and care,” is a sufficient answer to all 
such suggestions, just as though man lived for himself alone. Is 
it nothing to have left behind you the impress of your enlarged 
views upon the acres your children shall till? Is it nothing to 
have laid foundations broad and deep, upon which those who 
come after you may build, and bless the forethought and wisdom 
with which you provided for their comfort and health? Is there 
not a pleasure more rich and sweet than that which centres in 
self? But enough. Some coming generation may plant and 
plan with reference to the permanent value of farms and home- 
steads ; we are too busy. 


INSECTS. 


Every cultivator of the soil has need to study carefully the 
character and habits of insects. Not a farmer but has suffered 
more or less from their ravages, and the losses of the farmers of 
our Dominion from the destructive habits of these little creatures 
can only be counted in millions of dollars. Indeed, that General 
Superintendent of Education will deserve the lasting gratitude of 
his countrymen who shall make the habits of insects one of the 
branches of Common School education. 

There are many insects which prey upon the foliage of our 
fruit trees, and some upon the fruit. Only those can be described 
here which are most widely distributed throughout the country, 
and whose ravages are most serious. The Entomological Society 


34 INSECTS. 


of Capada has undertaken the labor of giving a complete account 
of the noxious insects of the Province of Ontario, and in doing 
this must necessarily describe the most, if not all, of those which 
are to be found in the other Provinces. This task will be accom- 
plished in a series of Reports, in which will be described in turn 
the insects injurious to the several fruits and crops, and as inci- 
dental to this, those insects also will be described which are of 
service to the cultivator, by reason of their habit of feeding upon 
those that are injurious ; so that, in time, every fruit grower, gar- 
dener and farmer will be made acquainted with the habits of 
their insect friends and foes, and with the best known methods 

- of combating the enemies. The Reports which relate to insects 
affecting fruits will be incorporated with the Reports of the 
Fruit Growers’ Association, and placed in the hands of all its 
members, and those who wish to possess the fullest information 
on this subject should carefully study these reports. 

In the earlier history of fruit raising in Canada, no serious 
inconvenience was felt from the depredations of insects, and very 
possibly in most éf the newer settlements the same immunity 
may now exist. But in all the older settled parts of the land, and 
especially in those parts where the climate is most favorable to 
fruit-growing, insects have been suffered to continue their labors 
without any interference of man, and so to multiply their num- 
bets that the injury they inflict is becoming, indeed has already 
become, matter of serious moment. Yet most of our fruit grow- 
ers content themselves with complaining, and put forth no active 
efforts to lessen the evil. This arises partly from the habit, so 
long indulged, of letting them alone, partly from another habit in 
which they have been educated, of regarding the fruit crop as 
of secondary importance, but largely from want of acquaintance 
with their tiny foe, and of the weapons with which to fight it, 
and the vulnerable spot at which to aim. Achilles, dipped by 
his mother in the Styx, was made invulnerable in all his body, 
save the heel by which she held him, and only he who had his 
secret knew how to aim the arrow by which he fell. By the 


INSECTS. 35 


study of the life and habits of these insects will we gain the 
knowledge of their secret, and find out how to aim our efforts so 
as to accomplish their destruction. In this there is much yet to 
be learned. ‘Lot each, then, avail himself of the information we 
now possess, and give to these robbers of our orchards and gar- 
dens such diligent attention, that our means of fighting them 
may be improved, and their numbers largely diminished. 

The growing and marketing of fruit is already assuming con- 
siderable importance in some parts of the country, and fruit is 
becoming one of our commercial products. They who would 
reap from their orchards the surest and largest golden harvest, 
must send to market the finest and fairest fruit, and this can only 
be done by him who most perseveringly and most intelligently 
wages war upon these tiny insect foes, which accomplish by dint 
of numbers a work of destruction to which, regarded as indivi- 
duals, they seem to be wholly inadequate. 

Tae Tent CatErpiiars.—These caterpillars are widely 
distributed throughout the country, and are sometimes so 
numerous as to strip the leaves from entire orchards. There are 
two species; they are called the 
American and Forest Tent Cater- 
pillars, and get their name from Ty 
their habit of making themselves — 
tents to dwell in. Fig. 23, ¢, isa 
representation of a cluster or brace- 
let of eggs from which these cater- 
pillars are hatched. They are 
fastened, as shown in the en- 
graving, around some small twig 
of the tree, conveniently near the 
buds from which the leaves are to § 
grow upon which the young cater- e} 
pillars are to feed. As the buds 
burst and the tender leaves put Fic. 28. 
forth, on some day when the air is warm and full of moisture, 
the young caterpillars are hatched. If the leaves be not yet 


36 INSECTS. 


sufficiently grown to supply them with food, there is no danger 
of their perishing with hunger, for they will feed upon the soft 
glutinous substance which covers the eggs, and has served te 
shield them from the wet. Selecting some convenient fork ir 
the branches, they spin in it a web, which they enlarge as they 
increase in size. This web or tent is their place of abode, from 
which they go in search of food, and to which they return when 
their hunger is satisfied, all going out and returning together in 
regular procession. When full grown they are about two inches 
in length, colour deep black with a white stripe extending along 
the back, and on each side of this stripe are numerous irregular 
yellow lines and a row of pale blue oval spots. The Forest Tent 
Caterpillar has a row of white spots along the back instead of a 
stripe. When they have attained to this size they leave their 
tents and become scattered about, seeking secure places in which 
to spin their cocoons, such as the crevices of fences and the loose 
bark of old trees, or any neglected rubbish. The cocoons are 
oval, pale yellow, loosely woven, and the meshes filled with a fine 
powder resembling sulphur. Having wrapped himself in this 
cocoon, the caterpillar changes to the pupa state, remaining in 
this condition about three weeks, when the moth comes forth, 
working its way out at one end of the cocoon. The moth is of a 
dull, reddish buff colour, with two parallel, nearly white stripes 
or bands running obliquely across the fore-wings. These moths 
are most abundant in July, live but a few days, in which the 
females lay their eggs upon the twigs of the trees in a broad belt, 
usually encircling the twig, and cover them with a thick coating 
of glutinous matter, which gives the bracelet the appearance of 
having been varnished, and serves to protect the eggs until the 
young caterpillars are hatched, and then becomes their first food. 

The Forest Tent Caterpillar does not make so large a tent 
nor place it in the forks of the branches, but merely makes a 
slight web on the side of the trunk or large branches. "When 
nearly grown they congregate upon the trunk of the tree or 
some large branch when not feeding, and may then be killed by 
the thousand. 


INSECTS. 37 


The best method of destroying these insects is to search the 
erchard carefully in the spring, before the buds are much swollen, 
and cut off the belts of eggs on the twigs and burn them. These 
bracelets will be found from one inch to twelve inches from the 
end of the shoots, and a little practice will enable one to discern 
them readily. It is best to search for them on a cloudy day, 
thus avoiding the glare of a bright sun. As each belt contains 
some three hundred eggs, this is a rapid and convenient way of 
destroying this pest. But, as some may escape notice, it will be 
necessary to go through the orchard just as the young leaves 
make their appearance, and search for the webs or tents in the 
forks of the branches. These may be cut off and the worms 
crushed under the foot, or with a light ladder ascend the tree and 
destroy them with the hand, which may be covered with a stout. 
buckskin mitten. 

There is no need of our orchards being overrun with these: 
caterpillars, a little attention in the way already pointed out will 
enable every one to keep them in subjection. He who suffers 
from this cause may thank his own carelessness and indolence, 
and deserves, in addition to losing his applé crop, to be compelled. 
to pay into the treasury of the municipality a handsome fine. 
Fig. 23 represents one of the tents of the American Tent Cater- 
pillar, with two of the larve, a and 8, on it, showing the side and 
back view, and d represents the cocoon. Fig. 24 is the male 
moth, and Fig. 25 the female moth, and 
Fig. 26 the pupa which is found inside of 
the cocoon. Fig. 27 shows the Forest 
Tent Caterpillar, distinguished from the 
other by the row of white spots on the — 
back instead of a white line. 

These caterpillars gg 
are found most abun- \ 
dantly in our apple 
orchards, but they feed. 
also upon the cherry, ap 
and have been found Fic. 26, Fic, 26. 


38 INSECTS. 


on the peach. The 
writer cannot remember 
ever having seen them 
upon the pear. : 
THE TWO-STRIPED 
Borer. Saperda bivittata. This beetle 
is very destructive to young apple 
‘trees, and sometimes attacks the pear 
and quince. It does its work so silently, 
and removed from observation, that fine 
orchards have been entirely ruined 
Fic. 28. before suspicion was entertained that 
any danger threatened. - Fig. 28 represents the beetle or perfect 
insect and the grub from which it is produced, or the same insect 
in the larva state. The perfect insect is light brown on the upper 
side, marked with two chalky-white stripes, running lengthwise 
of the body ; the under side, the face, the antennez, and the legs 
are white. It is usually about three quarters of an inch long, 
moving about at night and remaining concealed by day. During 
the months of June and July the females deposit their eggs upon 
the bark of the tree, near the root, at that part known as the 
collar of the tree. Here the bark is softer than at any other 
place on the trunk. From the eggs are hatched little fleshy 
whitish grubs without feet, which cut through the bark, and, on 
reaching the sap-wood, excavate a round, smooth cavity, about 
the size of a silver dollar, immediately under the bark. At the 
bottom of this cavity it makes a hole, out of which it casts its 
excrements, which appear like very fine sawdust. At this stage 
of its existence its presence can be readily ascertained by searching 
for this dust on the ground, just around the trunk of the tree. 
When the larva has become about half grown it ceases to cast the 
dust out of this hole, but proceeds to fill up the cavity it had 
made, at the same time boring a passage or gallery upward inte - 
the heart of the tree. This gallery is continued upwards, of 
variable length, sometimes not more than two inches, and some- 


INSEOTS. 39 


times twelve inches, and is gradually brought outwards again to 
the bark of the tree, but not through it. When the grub has 
completed this gallery it turns around and returns to that part of 
it which is nearest to the heart of the tree; this part it now 
enlarges by tearing off the fibre from the walls, and with this 
fibre carefully and securely closes the entrance, so that if some 
insect enemy should find its way into the chamber where it 
passed the first part of its life, that enemy could not enter the 
gallery to its present abode. At the same time it crowds its 
sawdust-like excrements into the upper extremity of the gallery, 
against the bark, thus diminishing the danger of attack from 
that quarter, and, at the same time, keeping its new chamber 
tidy. Having thus perfected its arrangements, it again turns 
around so as to have its head upwards, passes the winter in a 
torpid state, and in the spring casts off its skin and becomes a 
pupa, from which, in June, the perfect insect hatches, climbs to 
the upper end of the gallery, tears away the fine sawdust, gnaws 
a hole through the bark, and creeps forth. 

The larva, when full grown, is about an inch long, and less 
than a quarter of an inch thick, of a pale yellow colour, with a 
brown head and black jaws. "When there are several of these 
borers in one tree, they often completely girdle it, thus causing 
its death. They are distributed more or less numerously 
throughout the country, and will probably extend in time to 
those localities that now seem to be exempt, so that no orchard, 
particularly no young orchard—for young and thrifty trees are the 
favourite resort of this beetle—can be considered safe from their 
ravages. It is very important that the trees should be carefully 
examined three or four times every year, lest these borers effect 
a lodgment unawares. 

There is a simple method of keeping them out of the trees, 
and, if this be faithfully employed, they will never effect a 
lodgment. It has been found that strong alkalies will destroy 
the vitality of the egg, and, indeed, it is believed that the presence 

_of such an alkali prevents the parent beetle from depositing her 


40 INSECTS. 


egos, either because the odour is offensive to her, or because her 
instincts teach her that the eggs will only perish if she places 
them where they will come in contact with it. The most efficient 
method of applying this alkali is in the form of a ropy soft soap, 
which may be rubbed upon the body of the tree with a swab, 
particularly at the collar, and a handful deposited in the forks of 
the tree, where the branches separate from the main trunk, to be 
dissolved and washed down by the rains. A solution of potash, 
at the rate of a pound of potash to two gallons of water, will be 
found to answer the purpose in the absence of soft soap, but will 
need to be oftener applied. 

But if the grub has already got into the tree, the easiest and 
simplest method is to hunt him out and kill him. This can be 
done with a stout-bladed knife or a narrow carpenter’s gouge. 
Sometimes the newly-hatched grubs may be found in the month 
of August, while yet in the bark, their presence being indicated 
by small black spots in the bark about the collar of the tree. 
Washing this part of the tree with strong lye, or the above 
solution of potash, will often be effectual in destroying any of the 
young larve that may have escaped detection. At thesame time 
search carefully for the -fine sawdust castings, which indicate a 
larger grub within ; and, if these are seen, find the excavation in 
the sapwood, and hunt him out. If the grub have made his 
gallery into the heart of the tree, the upper opening may be 
found, usually from three to six inches above the chamber in the 
sapwood, by sticking a pin into the bark until, by the ready 
sinking of the pin, the exact spot is known; then, with the 
point of the knife, cut away the bark and pour some of the lye 
or potash solution down the gallery until, by its soaking through 
into the chamber below, you know that it has accomplished its 
work. By renewing the search for these sawdust castings at 
"- intervals through the fall, winter and early spring, they may be 
effectually routed. 

Tus Buprestis APPLE-TREE Borer. Chrysobothris Jemorata, 
This beetle is more universally distributed than the two-striped 


INSECTS. 41 


borer just described, and, like it, injures and often destroys 
young apple-trees by eating the sapwood so as frequently 
to girdle the trees. Vig. 29, a, shows this insect in 
the grub or larva state, b in the perfect or winged- 
beetle state. The grub is yellowish white, soft and 
footless, broad and flattened, near the head, 
rapidly tapering toward the other extremity. Its 
jaws are a deep black, and highly polished. The 
head is blackish brown, and nearly concealed by 
the second segment or ring. The beetle has a 
rough, uneven surface, of a blackish brown colour, 
with something of a coppery lustre, but the under 
side looks like burnished copper, extending down 
the legs to the feet, which are of a deep, shining 
green. The eggs are deposited in the crevices of the bark, on 
the trunk and larger branches ; from these the grubs are hatched, 
and eat their way through the bark to the sapwood. Here it 
makes an excavation in the wood directly under the bark, 
increasing the size of the chamber with its age. When fully 
grown it bores into the solid heart of the tree, where it remains 
during its quiescent state, and comes out, in the end of June or 
early in July, a perfect beetle. This one loves to bask in the 
sun, and may be found on the trunks of the trees when the sun 
is hottest. 

The application of soft soap to the trunk and larger branches, 
or of the solution of potash mentioned before, will be effectual 
to prevent these borers from getting into the trees. Alkaline 
solutions destroy the eggs and kill the young grubs while yet in 
the bark. But, if the grubs have reached the sapwood, the only 
way of making sure of their destruction is to hunt them out with 
a knife and put them to death. Their presence can be readily 
detected by the discoloration of the bark, that portion directly 
over their burrow being both flattened and dead. Young 
orchards should be thoroughly examined two or three times a 
year, and well rubbed with soft soap or washed with the potash 
solution. 


SS 


42 INSECTS. 


Tae Copiinc-worm. Carpocapsa pomonella, This insect 
is in every orchard in the land, and does more injury to the 
apple crop than 7 of the others; yes, probably more than all 

" the others combined. It 


is a tiny éreature, so 
‘ lt a very small that it has’ 
e never been seen in its 

winged state by the 

great majority of fruit 

raisers, whom it has rob- 

bed of tens, if not of 
hundreds of dollars. In 
some seasons, fully one- 
half of the fruit is so 

marred and eaten out by 

this worm that it is not 

fit to be sent to market. 

It is an European insect 

that has crossed the ocean and taken possession of the orchards of 
the new world, an invader not so easily driven out. At Fig. 30, 

a@ represents the moth, with its wings expanded, as when flying, 

and 6 the moth when at rest. It is a beautiful little moth, the 
expanded wings not extending over three quarters of an inch, 

but the fore-wings are crossed with numerous grey and brown 

lines, giving them the appearance of a watered silk, and near the 

hind angle of each of the fore wings is a dark brown, oval spot, 

edged with a bright copper colour. The hind wings are a light 
yellowish brown, as lustrous as satin. These moths, during the 
month of July, deposit their eggs on the young apple, in the cavity 
at the blossom end of the fruit, and, as if to destroy the value of 
as many apples as possible, they take care to lay but one egg on 

each apple. There are occasional exceptions to these rules ; they 
do sometimes deposit a second egg in the cavity where the stem 
is inserted, but these exceptions are met with just often enough 
to prove that the parent moth intends to deposit only one egg on 
each apple. 


Fig. 30. 


INSECTS. 43 


In a few days these eggs are hatched, and each little worm 
begins to eat its way down to the core, which is readily reached 
from this point. Arrived at the core, it gradually excavates for 
itself a chamber, feeding upon the pulp of the apple, and in- 
creasing in size until it has reached maturity. This is done in 
about four weeks, when it is scarce half an inch long, of a delicate 
pink colour, and thinly covered with very delicate white hairs. 
Fig. 30, ¢, represents the worm of full size. When its growth is 
completed, tt eats its way through the side of the apple and 
crawls out. If the apple has not dropped from the tree, it can 
let itself down very gently by a silken thread which it spins, and 
seek a secure retreat. The worm does not crawl into the ground, 
as many have supposed, but seeks a hiding place im any crevice, 
under the rough bark, between dried blades of grass, in the folds 
of an old rag, in short, anywhere that a safe retreat can be found. 
Hidden away in this hiding place, it spins around itself a thin, 
silken cocoon, like very fine tissue paper, and, inside of this 
cocoon, throws off its skin and becomes a pupa. The cocoon is 
shown at Fig. 30, d, and ¢ represents a portion of an apple cut 
open so as to show the chamber made by the worm around the 
core, and the channel reaching to the side, by which the worm 
makes his way out. In due time the pupa, or chrysalis, as it is 
also called, works its way out of one end of the cocoon, and the 
moth, now fully formed within the chrysalis, breaks the shell of 
the pupa, and comes out. 

There are two broods of these little codling-worms in each 
summer. Some, at least, and probably only a part of them, come 
out in the moth state in August, and proceed to deposit their 
eggs on the sound apples,.apparently selecting the winter fruit, 
Hence we sometimes meet with these worms in the fruit that has 
been stored. for winter use. 

The effect upon the fruit is, as a rule, to cause it to ripen pre- 
maturely and fall to the ground. No doubt, sometimes, the 
worm has escaped from the fruit before it falls, but usually the 
worm may yet be found within the freshly-fallen fruit. However, 


44 INSECTS. 


it does not remain long in the fruit after it has fallen, but pro- 
ceeds to make its way out, and seek its hiding place, very soon 
after the fruit comes to the ground. For this reason it is im- 
portant that the fruit should not be permitted to remain on the 
ground, but be gathered up regularly every day. Ifit be possible 
to keep a litter of small pigs in the orchard, with sharp appetites, 
they will consume the apples as fast as they fall, and thus destroy 
a great many of the worms. But it will not do to depend upon 
this method of destroying them alone. Many will escape from 
the apples before they drop, or creep out soon enough thereafter 
to escape the pigs. In order to catch these, a rope of straw may 
be twisted around the trunk of the tree near the ground, and 
another just below the branches, or, if convenient, strips of woollen 
rags, lightly twisted together, may be tied around the trees, and 
a handful of woollen rags laid in the fork of the branches. The 
worms will seek these as hiding-places, and spin their cocoons 
there. These bands may be examined, and when the worms or 
cocoons are found to have become numerous, those that are of 
straw may be taken off and burned, and new bands put in their 
places. The woollen bands or rags may be searched, and the 
codling-worms killed, or they may be dipped in hot water, or 
placed on a board and pounded with a mallet so as to crush the 
insects concealed within the folds, and then replaced. Dr. Trim- 
ble, of New Jersey, recommends this plan, and it is said that as 
many as a thousand have been taken in this way, from one tree, 
in a single season. In addition to these methods of destroying 
them, great advantage will be derived from building numerous 
small fires in the orchard at night, with chips and shavings, during 
the month of June. These codling-worm moths, and the moths 
of a great many other injurious insects, attracted by the light, 
fly into the blaze and are burned. 

It is not possible sufficiently to impress upon the mind of 
each one who has an orchard the importance of using every one 
of these methods for the destruction of the codling-worm. So 
rapidly do they multiply, so destructive are their ravages, so sure 


INSECTS. 45 


are some of them to escape—their very insignificance and little- 
ness shielding them—that it will be only by the use of every one 
of these means of destroying them that we shall so succeed in 
keeping them in subjection as to secure a portion of sound fruit. 
If the labor be too great, then do cut down your orchards, and 
not leave them to be breeding places for these pests, from which 
to spread into the orchards of your neighbors who are trying to 
secure some fruit that shall be sound and fit for market. 

Tae Prum Curcunto. Conotrachelus nenuphar. This 
insect is the pest of all our stone fruits, It is to be found in 
nearly all parts of the Dominion, and wherever it has become 
numerous it wholly destroys the plum crop, and renders the 
cherry crop useless. Nearly every fruit grower has been made 
to suffer from its ravages, and unless energetic efforts are made to 
keep it in subjection, we may bid farewell to all our choice 
plums, cherries and other stone fruits. But there is no necessity 
for this. It has been repeatedly shown that it is quite within 
our power to so lessen their numbers that we can secure a fine 
crop of these delicious fruits. Should any have doubts of the 
possibility of accomplishing this very desirable result, they will 
be much gratified by the perusal of the Report on the Plum 
Curculio, made to the Fruit Growers’ Association of Ontario, by 
W. Saunders, Esq., of London, Ont., and printed at page 50 of 
the Report of the Association for the year 1870. It will there 
be seen that many succeeded in saving their plums by devoting 
a little time every day for about a fortnight to the business of 
catching them, 

The simplest and, under ordinary circumstances, the best 
method of catching the curculio is to spread a cloth under the 
tree, and jar it by a smart blow. If the trees are of some 
size, it is recommended to bore a small hole into the trunk of 
the tree, just below the branches, to the depth of about one- 
third of the thickness of the tree. Into this slip an iron bolt that 
will just fit into the hole. The bolt should be cut off square at 


both ends. A piece of common cotton sheeting, long enough to 
5 


46 INSECTS. 


reach as far as the branches extend, and made wide enough by 
sewing, if necessary, two breadths together, may be fastened ab 
each end to a strip of lath, or any light stick that will serve to 
keep the cloth extended. By using two of these sheets, spreading 
one on each side of the tree so as to cover the ground under the 
branches, and having a place cut out of that side of the sheets 
next to the tree, in order to receive the trunk of the tree, all the 
insects that fall from the tree will drop on the sheets, and can be 
readily seen and gathered up. After spreading the sheets on the 
ground, a smart blow should be struck on the end of the iron 
bolt with a heavy hammer. This will jar the tree to the ex- 
tremities of the branches, and cause the curculios that are in the 
tree to drop down and feign themselves dead. Having provided 
a vial, with some alcohol or strong whiskey in it, the curculios 
may be picked up and put into the phial for safe keeping. 
Or a wide-mouthed bottle may be used, filled with saw-dust, 
which is kept moist with alcohol. Shaking the tree will not 
answer the purpose ; that will not bring the curculio down, it is 
necessary to jar the tree, and if a bolt of iron is not let into the 
trunk, upon which to strike, care must be taken not to bruize the 
tree by striking on the bark. It may be often convenient to saw 
off a stout limb, leaving a few inches projecting from the trunk, 
and to strike the blow on the end of this stump of the limb. 
This will answer the purpose of the iron bolt, and save the bark 
from being bruised. . 

The best time of the day for catching the curculio is before 
seven o’clock in the morning, and after seven in the evening. 
Both morning and evening should be tried, for in some seasons 
the curculio will be found to be more numerous in the evening, 
and in other seasons more numerous in the morning. The season 
of the year for catching them is as soon as the blossoms fall, 
which is usually about the twenty-fifth of May, and should be 
continued as long as the curculio are found. They will be 
usually very abundant upon the plum trees, both wild and culti- 
vated, and upon the cherry trees, especially the sweet varieties. 


INSECTS. 47 


Tn addition to the use of sheets and jarring the curculio from 
the trees, it is recommended to place bits of bark, with the con- 
cave side down, on the ground under the trees, as soon as the 
spring opens. The curculio will take shelter on the under side 
of these pieces of bark, and by turning them over every day and 
gathering the curculio that will be found clinging to the under 
side, their numbers may be very rapidly diminished. The 
number that will be found under these chips will be much 
greater in some seasons than others, varying with the state of 
the weather. If cold, wet, and storm prevail, they will seek 
shelter under the chips, but if it be warm and pleasant weather 
they will be found in the trees. 

Another mode of destroying these insects, which should be 
employed in addition to both of the foregoing, is the gathering 
of the injured and fallen fruit, regularly every day, before the 
curculio grub or larva ‘has time to crawl out of the fruit. Some 
have fenced in their plum and cherry trees and turned the pigs 
in to devour the fallen fruit, but when this cannot be done, the 
fruit should be carefully and regularly picked up, and either fed 
to the pigs or cooked so as to kill the insects within. 

But now for the insect itself. @ 5 
In Figure 32, ¢ is a magnified 
representation of the perfect in- 
sect, the line underneath it indi- 
cating its natural length; @ 
shows it, of the natural size, at 
work on a cherry, on which may 
be seen the crescent mark, and a 
dot indicating the position of the 
egg ; @ is the grub or larva, and “Fre. 32. 

b the pupa, both magnified. The adjacent lines are intended 
to show the actual length of the several forms of the curculio. 
The curculio is a rough, hump-backed beetle, of a brownish 
gray color, about a fifth of an inch in length, with a short snout. 
When alarmed, this snout is drawn close up to the body, and 


48 INSECTS. 


the legs folded up, so that the insect looks like a dried bud, or a 
little bit of bark or dirt. In this way it escapes detection, lying 
perfectly still for a long time as though dead. A sudden jar of 
the tree upon which it is at work frightens it, and folding up 
its legs it drops to the ground. By spreading a white sheet 
under the tree to receive the curculio when it falls, it is easily 
seen and gathered up. It has wings, however, and in warm 
weather will fly both during the day and night. The mouth is 
placed at the extremity of the snout, and with this the female 
bites the fruit and prepares a place for the egg. C. V. Riley, 
State Entomologist of Missouri, says that the operation of depo- 
siting an egg occupies about five minutes. “ Having taken a 
strong hold on the fruit, the female makes a minute cut with 
her jaws, just through the skin of the fruit, and then runs her 
snout under the skin to the depth of one-sixteenth of an inch, 
and moves it back and forth until the cavity is large enough to 
receive the egg it is to retain ; she then changes her position and 
drops an egg into the mouth of the cut; then turning around 
again, she pushes it by means of her snout to the end of the 
passage, and afterwards cuts the crescent in front of the hole, so 
as to undermine the egg and leave it in a sort of flap.” 

In a few days there is hatched from this ege a small white 
grub, which eats its way towards the centre of the fruit, where 
it remains feeding upon the pulp until it has attained its full 
growth. In the case of the plum, the natural development of 
the fruit is brought to a premature conclusion by the presence of 
this curculio grub, and the plums fall to the ground before they 
have completed their growth. This is not the case, however, 
with the cherry, which remains on the tree until maturity, and 
the eater is often disgusted at finding the fruit that looked so 
tempting, tenanted and half-eaten by this grub. It would seem 
that all this was arranged just in this way to secure the perpe- 
tuation of this pest, for the curculio grub attains its full growth 
with the ripening of the cherry, but as it completes its growth 
before the ripening of the plum, this drops off at about the time 


INSECTS. 49 


the curculio grub has finished its growth, so that it may find its 
way just at that time into the ground. Shortly after the plums 
drop, the grubs eat their way out of the fruit, crawl into the 
ground a short distance, and then make for themselves a small 
cavity, in which they change into the pupa state. During this 
stage they are inactive, and remain confined in their subterra- 
nean cell some three or four weeks, by which time they have 
become ,developed into perfect beetles, and crawl forth to lay 
more eggs and destroy more fruit. 

Annoying and destructive as the curculio has been, there is 
notwithstanding no reason for allowing it to deprive us of our 
fruit, for with the knowledge we now have of its habits and of 
the means of capturing it, none but the lazy and careless will go 
without an abundance of cherries and plums. ; 

Toe Grape Vine Fina Beetie.—Haltica chalybea.—This 
insect feeds on the grape vine both in the beetle and larva state, 
and is often very destructive to 
the grape crop. It is very small, 
of a bright steel-blue color, though 
sometimes it is quite green, and 
jumps, when one tries to catch it, 
with the agility of a flea. Fig. 
33, d, is a representation of this 
beetle, and 5 shows it in the larva 
state; both are magnified, the true 
size being indicated by the hair 
line at the side of each. aisa 


, AW: , A 
ie i OK 
' Je y 


leaf, perforated by these larve, Fig. 33. 
which are shown at work upon it, and ¢ is a representation of 
the pupa. 


It does the greatest injury in the beetle state. Just as the 
buds are bursting in the spring, these little fellows, who have 
been fasting all the winter, and are.too impatient to wait until 
the leaves are expanded, begin to feed on the opening buds, 
eating up leaves, stems, grapes and all, as they lie enfolded in the 


50 INSECTS. 


bud. In this way they make sad havoc, destroying the entire 
crop of fruit and sadly mutilating the vines. 

These beetles deposit clusters of orange-colored eggs on the 
under side of the vine leaves, from which the larve are hatched ; 
these are small, dark-brown worms, with black heads, which feed 
usually on the upper side of the leaves, but are sometimes to be 
found on the under side. In this stage they are very easily 
gathered and destroyed. They attain their full size in from 
three to four weeks, when they crawl into the ground and pass 
into the chrysalis state, from which they emerge in due time, as 
little, blue or green, jumping flea-beetles. 

In the beetle state it is difficult to catch them, they verify the 
saying “that when you put your finger on them they are not 
there.” We have no confidence in any dusting of them with 
air-slaked lime or sprinkling of them with soap suds; they are 
not so easily killed. White hellibore sprinkled on the opening 
buds may poison them. But the sure way of destroying them is 
to make thorough search among the young leaves for the eggs 
and the larve, and carefully pick them off and crush them. 

Tar GREEN Grare Ving SPHINX. Charocampa pampina- 
tric. This insect belongs to the family of Hawkmoths, which 
remain concealed during the day, but may often be seen of a 
warm summer's evening hovering over the flowers in the garden, 
much after the manner of a humming bird, and thrusting their 
long proboscis into the nectaries of the flowers. 

In the moth state it is a very pretty insect. The upper side 

of the fore wings 
_ is of a dark olive 

Pgreen, banded 
with greenish 
grey, and the hind- 
er wings are dull 
ted. Fig. 34 isa 
very good repre- 
sentation of this 
mee moth. Fig. 35 


INSECTS. 51 


shows the chrysalis, and Fig. 36 the caterpillar. The moth lays 
her eggs on the under side of the vine leaves, from which the 
caterpillar is hatched in a few 
days, at first only one-fifth of 
an. inch long, and having a long 
black horn on the last segment 
of the body. Itisa great eater 
and rapidly increases in size, 
undergoing some changes in 
appearance during its growth, until it reaches a length of two 
inches, when it is usually of a light green color, dotted along 
the back and striped on each side as shown in Fig. 36. It is 
during this caterpillar state that it commits its depredations, 
consuming the foliage, and when numerous, stripping the vine 
quite bare. 

After attaining its full growth, 
the caterpillar descends to the _ 
ground, gathers some leaves together —~ 
with a few silken threads, and 
passes into the chrysalis state. 
Those that pass into this state early 
in the season soon hatch out as 
winged moths, lay more eggs, which 
' soon produce more caterpillars ; but 
those which go into the chrysalis 
state late in the season, remain in Fig. 86. 
the chrysalis state all winter. 

There is but one way of getting rid of this vine-leaf eater, 
that of searching for them on the vines, picking them off and 
killing them. Fortunately it is an easy matter to find them, for 
they usually make clean work as they go, eating the entire leaf 
and leaving only the foot stalk standing. Only a careless and 
slovenly cultivator need ever suffer very materially from the 
ravages of this insect. 


52° INSECTS. 


Tus GoosEgerRy Saw-riy.—Wematus ventricosus. — This 
insect feeds, when in the worm state, on the currant and goose- 
berry, and these usually make their appearance in such numbers 
that they soon strip the plants of their leaves. The perfect insect 
is a small, four-winged fly, about as large as the common house 
fly. About the first of May the female fiy deposits her eggs along 
the ribs on the under side of the leaf. She is provided with a 
delicate' saw, with which she cuts slits in the leaf ribs to hold 
the eggs. The eggs are very small and white, distinctly visible 
without the help of a microscope. These hatch in a few days, 
and. the little worms immediately begin their work of devouring 
the leaves. They are of a pale green color, dotted with black. 
As soon as they acquire a little size and strength, they may be 
found on the edges of the leaves, holding on by the fore legs, in 
such a position as to bring the edge of the leaf to their mouths, 
thus enabling them to consume it with the greatest facility. The 
worms attain to a length of about three-quarters of an inch, and 
when fully grown, descend to the ground, burrow a short distance 
into the soil, and there change into the chrysalis state. About 
the first of July, the flies come out of the chrysalis, crawl out 
of the ground, and deposit a second supply of eggs, from 
which a second brood. of worms is hatched. These do as their 
predecessors had done, making fearful havoc with the leaves of 
currant and gooseberry, and descending into the ground, pass 
into the chrysalis state. This second brood, however, remains 
in the ground all winter, awaiting the return of spring and the 
putting forth of the young leaves before the flies come out to de- 
posit their eggs. Besides these two regular armies of saw-fly 
worms which invade our currants and gooseberries every sum- 
mer, there are occasional raids from irregular squadrons, which 
do mischief in proportion to their numbers, and make it neces- 
sary to keep continual watch and ward. Fortunately, we have, 
in powdered white hellebore, a cheap and perfect instrument of 
destruction. It can be procured of the druggists at from forty to 
fifty cents per pound, and an ounce of this mixed with about a 


PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES. 53 


pailfal of water will be sufficient for twenty plants. The best 
way of using the hellebore is to put it in water in the proportion 
of an ounce of powdered white hellebore (the white hellebore, 
not black) to a pailful of water, and with a common watering 
‘pot, with not too fine a rose, sprinkle it thoroughly over the 
leaves, being careful to thrust the rose into the bush so as to 
sprinkle the lower leaves on which the early brood while yet 
young will be found. It will be necessary to keep a careful and 
constant look-out for these worms, examining with care the leaves 
on the lower branches and in the interior of the bush, and use 
the hellebore whenever they are discovered. A couple of days’ 
delay after they are once discovered will usually give them time 
to strip all the leaves from the plants, but a timely and thorough 
application of hellebore will kill the worms and save the plants. 
This hellebore is poisonous, and should be cared for accordingly, 
though not as virulent as many, and requiring to be taken in 
larger doses than most other poisons to produce serious conse- 
quences. 


THE PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES. 


The method by which varieties are perpetuated, and trees of 
any given sort are multiplied by grafting and budding, has been 
already fully explained ; now we propose to shew how new vari- 
eties of good qualities can be produced. It is true that very 
many, perhaps the most, of our valuable varieties of fruit have 
been accidental productions, in which the hand of man played 
no other part than that of sowing the seed, and oftentimes not 
even that ; but study and experiment have shown that there are 
certain laws which govern the processes of reproduction in the 
vegetable as well as the animal world, and that it is in the 
power of man to so direct these processes of vegetable reproduc- 
tion as to secure definite results. The stock-breeder makes him- 
self acquainted with the laws of animal reproduction, and by 
skilful direction so uses them as to produce an animal having 


54 PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES. 


the desired qualities or combination of qualities. In like manner 
the producer of new varieties of fruits studies the laws of vege- 
table reproduction, and by skilfully directing their operations 
produces a new variety of fruit combining certain desired quali- 
ties. 

This is a most fascinafing field of study and experiment, one 
that has as yet been but very partially explored, and that offers to 
the Canadian fruit grower the opportunity of producing varieties of 
fruit adapted to our own peculiar climate that shall far surpass the 
majority of those now in cultivation. Hardy apples that shall 
thrive in the harsh climate of our colder sections and yield fruit 
of high flavor, are yet sought after, not only by the fruit planters 
of our Dominion, but by the dwellers in all the north-western 
United States. The present boundaries of successful pear cul- 
ture are yet to be greatly enlarged by the production of new 
varieties of superior hardihood. Wild grape vines are found 
growing in far colder parts of our land than are now thought to 
be available for the production of our -cultivated varieties, but 
needing the touch of no magician’s wand to change their austere 
fruit into a luxury for the table. The blackberry, raspberry, 
blueberry, whortleberry, cranberry, and all the host of small 
fruits, only await the skilful employment of nature’s own laws 
to be changed into new forms, with new characters, properties 
and flavors. 

It is true that there are causes which influence the production 
of new varieties of fruit, more subtle, and perhaps therefore less 
easily directed and controlled by man, than those which affect 
the production of choice breeds of animals; but this is only 
saying that the labyrinths of vegetable reproduction have not yet 
been all threaded, and that there are discoveries still to be made, 
and great rewards to crown the patient student. Nature loves 
to unfold her mysteries to those who will take the pains to watch 
her operations ; and while availing ourselves of what we know, 
we may confidently expect to attain to such fuller knowledge as 
Shall enable us to produce at will the qualities we desire. Aa it 


PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES. 55 


now stands, it is possible to make very near approximations to 
the attainment of the desired result, and the labors of the pains- 
taking operator are always crowned with gratifying results, often 
even richer and better than his most sanguine expectations. 
Sometimes the results of his labors are very different from his 
intentions, as though nature would say to him, you have not yet 
fathomed the depths of my secret places; study me more care- 
fully, consider more fully all the conditions which influence 
results, and conduct your operations with greater nicety, then 
will you find me a willing servant to do your bidding. 

New varieties are, as a rule, produced from seed ; and so far 
as the hand of man can control results, in the present state of 
our knowledge, they are always produced from seed. Sometimes 
trees and plants produce what are termed sports. A branch of a 
Spitzenburgh apple tree, operated upon by forées whose modes of 
action are as yet to us unknown, will produce russet apples, 
whose appearance, texture and flavor even, differ more or less 
widely from all the other apples on the tree. A branch of a tree 
will assume a drooping habit, or put forth variegated foliage, or 
leaves curiously cut or curled in a ringlet. These unusual de- 
velopments man is able to perpetuate by grafting, and so to 
increase their number that every man can ornament his lawn 
with the ring-leaved willow, or the variegated-leaved ash, or the 
cut-leaved birch. But no one has yet penetrated so far into the 
hidden things of nature as to be able to unfold to us the laws 
which govern their production, or teach us how we may at will 
produce like variations. Some physiologists, with wise looks 
and high-sounding phrases, will tell us that somewhere, away 
back in the ages of long ago, an atom became impressed with 
the tendency to assume such an abnormal form, and by slow 
degrees has communicated this tendency to its fellow atoms, 
until favorable conditions having arisen, this tendency has been 
able to give expression to itself in the form in which we see it 
developed. But what isan atom? What is such a tendency, 
and by whom impressed? Can atoms arrange themselves as they 


56 PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES. 


please? Are they not moved: by forces outside of themselves, and 
arranged by these forces according to definite laws? These vari- 
ations are doubtless produced according to fixed laws, and when 
we shall have learned these laws, then we may be able to use 
them in the production of such. variations. In the mean time, 
we can avail ourselves of what we know of the laws which 
govern the production of varieties by seed, and by directing them, 
secure new and valuable fruit. 

In order to know how to produce, from seed, varieties of 
fruit, having certain desired qualities, it will be necessary to 
examine the structure of a flow- 
er, and learn how nature works 
in the formation of seeds. By 
looking at -Fig. 37, which is a 
representation of a cherry blos- 
som cut in two, it will be seen 
that there are several organs 
87. brought to view. Those which 
more particularly concern us just now are those which are called 
the seed vessel or ovary, the pistil, and the stamen. The pistil, 
with the ovary at its base, is indicated’ by the letter ¢, the knob 
at the top is called the stigma, and the portion between the 
stigma and the ovary is called the style. Around the pistil stand 
the stamens; the upper part, divided into two lobes, is called 
the anther, and from the anther proceeds a fine yellow powder, 
called the pollen. The seed is formed in the ovary only when 
the pollen fertilizes the germ. Should this fertilization not take 
place, the germs that are in the seed vessel never become devel- 
oped into seeds, but perish, At Fig. 38 the reader will see a 
single grain of pollen highly magnified, and will notice that it is 
not very unlike a tadpole in appearance, only that the part which 
corresponds to the tail of the tadpole is, in the pollen-grain, a little 
rootlet. This pollen-grain falling on the stigma, throws out its 
little rootlet, which runs down into and through the entire length 
of the style, as will be seen by examining Fig. 39. On reaching 


PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES. 57 


the ovary it penetrates it, and coming in contact with the germs 
that are in the ovary, fertilizes them, or in other words, imparts 


Fig, 38. Fig. 39. Fig. 40. Fig. 41. 


to them the power of growth and development into perfect seeds. 
In Fig. 40, ¢ represents the lower end of this pollen rootlet 
entering the ovary, and in. Fig. 41 it is seen after it has entered 
the ovary and come in contact 
with the germ e. Fig. 42 
represents an apple blossom 
cut in two, and by comparing 
this with Fig. 37, it will be 
seen that the apple blossom 
has three pistils, while the 
cherry blossom has but one. 
This diversity exists in a yet Fig. 42. 

greater degree in the strawberry blossom, which has a very great 
number of pistils; but whatever the number of pistils, the pro- 
cess is ever the same, the pollen must reach the germ through 
the pistil or pistils, or the germ will perish, and in the case of 
numerous pistils, it will be seen that each pistil supplies its own 
division of the seed vessel or ovary with the needed pollen. 
That these organs may be the more readily recognized, they 
are shown separate from the flower. Figure 43 shows, at the - 
left hand, the stamen, with the anther on the top, from which 


58 PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES. 


the pollen dust is falling; and on the right hand a pistil, the 
knob on the top being the stigma, and the pval swelling at the 
base the ovary. 

The art of producing new varieties from seed 
consists in taking the pollen of one variety of the 
fruit and applying it to the stigma of the pistil in the 
flower of another variety. The mode of doing this 
is very simple. When the flowers begin to open, 
you will select a variety, say of apple, having certain 
qualities which you wish to combine with the quali- 
ties which are possessed by another variety of apple, 
and so to have an apple which unites in itself the 
several qualities which are now found separate, a part 
of them in one apple and a part in another. As 
soon as the flowers begin to expand, you will select 
: some of the flowers upon which to operate, and will 
cut away the anthers, which are on the ends of the stamens, 
before they burst open and let out their pollen. This can be 
most easily done with a pair of small sharp-pointed scissors. As 
the apple and pear usually produce their flowers in clusters, it 
will be necessary to cut away all the flowers except those from 
which the anthers are clipped off; and after cutting away the 
anthers, with a good magnifying glass examine the stigma to see 
if there be any grain of pollen fallen upon it; if there be, the 
whole flower should be cut off. You will procure pollen from 
the tree of the other variety by carefully cutting off some of the 
flowers whose anthers have recently burst and are covered with 
pollen, and taking them with you to the flowers whose anthers 
you have removed, you will apply the anther laden with pollen 
to the stigma of these flowers. Sometimes the tree which bears 
the pollen you wish to use comes into blossom some time before 
the tree that you wish to use as the seed-producing parent. In 
that case, the pollen can be shaken into a sheet of smooth writing 
paper, and put into a small vial, closely corked up, and laid 
away in a drawer, or other dark place, that is also dry and cool, 


Fig. 43. 


PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES, 59 


and kept until the other tree comes into flower, and may then 
be applied by means of a fine camel’s hair pencil. When the 
pollen has been applied to the pistil of these flowers, they should 
be enclosed in a piece of gauze or thin book muslin, to prevent 
anything from interfering with your work. It is advisable to 
repeat the application of the pollen on each day for a few succes- 
sive days, ag it may be that at the first application the stigma had 
not reached that stage which was favorable to the reception of the 
pollen and its growth. This operation can only be well done in 
dry weather, for it is only then that the pollen will be dry and 
dust-like. If gathered in this state, and kept as already directed, 
it will preserve its vitality for a considerable time, thus rendering 
it an easy matter to procure pollen from trees at some distance 
from those upon which you desire to operate. Care must be 
taken to deprive the flower which you wish to fertilize of all its 
anthers, before they have burst and thrown out their pollen upon 
the pistils, for if the pollen has fertilized the germs at the base 
of the pistils, no subsequent application of other pollen will be 
of any avail. 

This work of cross-fertilization can be performed with all our 
fruits, and the excellences of one variety of apple be combined 
with those of another, or of one variety of pear with another, or 
of plum or cherry, strawberry, raspberry, grape, &c., &c.; but 
seed-bearing fruits, such as the apple, pear and quince, cannot be: 
crossed with the stone-bearing fruits, as the cherry and plum. 
What are the precise limits within which this cross-fertilization 
can be effected have not yet been fully ascertained, and a very 
interesting field of discovery lies opened here before the careful 
experimenter. If it shall be found that the apple can be crossed 
with the pear, or the pear with the apple, as some facts seem to- 
indicate, or the plum and cherry can be made to unite in cross- 
fertilization, or the strawberry with the raspberry, what new 
creations lie open before the experimenter. But even within the 
already ascertained field of cross-fertilization, there is plenty of 
scope for experiment, and much that is valuable as well as inte- 
resting will reward our labors. 


60 PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES. 


In the case of some of our well-known varieties which have 
been perpetuated and multiplied by grafting and budding, there 
is more difficulty in securing the desired combination of qualities, 
than in those which have never been grafted, but are growing on 
their natural stock. Precisely what are the influences of the 
stock upon the graft, it is not possible to state ; but it is quite 
possible that they come in to affect the operations of the cross- 
fertilizer. 

In performing this operation, it should be borne in mind 
that the constitution of the seed-bearing parent is apt to be 
transmitted to the progeny. It will be necessary, therefore, to 
remember that unless this parent be healthy, hardy and produc- 
tive, the seedlings raised from it will be very likely to be deficient 
in these qualities. On the other hand, it is thought that the 
form and color and qualities of the fruit will partake largely of 
the male, that is, the parent from which the pollen was taken. 
There is constant inquiry for very hardy apple trees, yielding 
fruit of fine quality; and indeed this is true of all the fruits ; 
and while it may be necessary to sacrifice size of fruit on account 
of the shortness of the season and quality of soil, yet it may be 
quite possible to produce an apple tree that shall have the hardi- 
hood of the Siberian crab, and yet yield a fruit as large and 
perhaps as good as the famed English golden pippin. We 
commend this pleasant task of producing new varieties of fruits 
by cross-fertilization to the attention of our Canadian lovers of 
good fruit, in the confident expectation that every patient worker 
in this interesting field will be most abundantly rewarded. 

If the pollen that you have applied to the stigma fertilizes 
the germs in the seed vessel, the fruit will grow and come to 
maturity, containing within itself the seeds which have been 
developed from those germs, and which you are to preserve and 
plant with jealous care, watching and waiting until they grow 
up and become trees and yield their fruit, the fruit possessing 
the qualities you hoped to combine, when you dusted the pollen 
on the pistil of the parent fruit. Of course, in the case of apples 


THE APPLE. 61 


aud pears, the results of this labor can only be known after the 
lapse of several years, something shorter in the plum and cherry, 
and considerably less in the grape, or raspberry, or currant, or 
strawberry. But if these experiments are continued, and every 
year some new cross-fertilizations are effected, soon every year will 
bring its pleasure in the testing of new fruits, called into existence 
by your skill, beginning with the small fruits that come earliest 
into bearing, and extending eventually to the appearance of the 
new apples and pears. 


THE APPLE. 


This fruit can be grown with some degree of success in all 
parts of the Dominion, and in some parts it can be grown to as 
high a degree of perfection, in all the requisites of quantity, 
quality and appearance, as in any part of the world. Already 
Canadian apples are attaining a favorable. position in the markets 
of Great Britain, and the attentive cultivator finds the orchard 
the most remunerative part of the farm. 

The soil most favorable to the growth of the apple tree, and 
the production of fine apples, is a strong calcareous loam, yet it 
will thrive and yield good fruit on all soils. Any soil of sufficient 
fertility to produce good farm crops will be suited to the apple, 
yet a clayey loam is preferable to light sand, and a rolling, 
uneven surface to level ground. But it is of the greatest moment, 
and essentially requisite to the health and longevity of the tree 
and the perfect development of the fruit, that the soil be perfectly 
drained. 

The pruning of an apple orchard is simply for the purpose of 
keeping the head of the tree open, so as to give the leaves ample 
exposure to the sun and air. If done regularly every year, but 
little cutting will be needed at any one time, and that chiefly of 
small branches. No rules can be Jaid down other than the sug- 
gestions already given on the subject of pruning, and each grower 
must learn to use his judgment, and adapt his pruning to the 
habit of growth in the tree in hand. 


62 THE APPLE. 


Apple trees can be propagated both by budding and grafting, 
each method being usually quite successful, if only the stock be 
in a healthy and vigorous condition. 

It is very desirable that a little more care should be bestowed 
upon the gathering and putting up of apples intended for market. 
Of course the fruit should be all carefully gathered by hand, so 
that none of it shall be bruised, and be judiciously sorted. Much 
of the fruit now sent to market has been handled too roughly, 
and not been sorted at all. It will usually be found most profit- 
able to assort the fruit into three grades: the first composed of 
fair, full sized, perfect fruit; the second of the sound, well-formed, 
but smaller sized apples; the third of the inferior sized, knotty, 
scabby, wormy and imperfect specimens. In the city markets, 
the first grade will bring the very highest price; the second grade 
may be kept for home consumption, or if sold, will bring as much, 
often more, per barrel, than could have been obtained for the 
whole lot unsorted. Indeed, in some markets, especially in those 
of Great Britain, the whole question of profit or loss depends 
upon the proper sorting of the fruit; and a reputation once 
obtained there for putting up fruit according to quality, will cause 
that brand to be sought after, and secure the sale of those apples 
at the best rates. Every fruit grower who sends fruit to market 
should brand or mark every barrel or package with his own name, 
or some distinctive mark, so that he may secure the advantages 
that are sure to accrue to a judicious sorting of his fruit. 

It is also important that the apples should be so put up that 
they will be perfectly tight, and not shake about in the barrel. 
A little practice will enable any one to pack apples securely. 
The usual method is, to pave the bottom of the barrel with ap- 
ples, placing the stem down, as closely as they can be packed 
without bruising; then put in a market basketful at a time, 
introducing the basket into the barrel and pouring the fruit out 
gently, not allowing the apples to fall, but roll out and on to 
those already in the barrel. As each basketful is emptied, 
the barrel is gently shaken, so that the apples shall be well 


THE APPLE. 63 


settled to their places. The barrel is filled full, even with the 
top, the head placed on, and by means of a screw packer, pressed 
down into its place. If this is not roughly done, the apples will 
be pressed just enough to keep them tight, so that when the 
barrel is rolled about, the apples will not be shaken in the barrel. 
As soon as the head is in place, the hoops should be put on, 
driven home, and securely nailed, and the heading at both ends 
secured by nailing cleats on the inside of the chime. Mark the 
barrel on the end which was the bottom when putting the apples 
in, so that it may be opened and the fruit taken out from that 
end. After the barrel has been fully secured and marked, it 
should be laid on the side and kept in a cool place, under cover 
from sun and rain, until sent to market or removed to the cellar. 
A dry cellar that can be kept at a temperature just above freez-~ 
ing, is an excellent place in which to keep apples in a fresh and 
sound condition. 

How to market the fruit, after it is gathered, is a question of 
considerable importance, and one that deserves much more con- 
sideration from the grower than it usually receives. As it now 
stands, our fruit raisers wait until some travelling fruit buyer 
comes along, and drive the best bargain they can. Sometimes he 
comes again to get the apples he has bought, and perhaps as 
often he is never seen again. Sometimes the grower agrees to 
barrel the fruit and deliver it at some Railway Station or wharf, 
and after taking it there, can find nothing of his purchaser. We 
have not space to discuss this subject fully, but suggest that the 
fruit growers in any given neighborhood might unite, and select 
the best business man of their number to proceed to the city 
which affords the best market for their apples, and there establish 
such business relations with some responsible and honorable 
house as will secure the sale of their fruit. We have heard 
parties complain that they could not find a market for their fruit, 
because no one had been round to buy, while their neighbors 
within a dozen miles of them, who had established business 
connections in the city, found ready sale at good prices. 


64 THE APPLE. 


The best varieties of apples for market purposes are not 
usually those of the highest flavor. Many things are required 
in an apple to make it a profitable variety, and foremost among 

" these requisites is a showy appearance. This attractive appear- 
ance is the result of good size, uniformity of shape, and bright 
color. A red apple is more attractive and more saleable than a 
green or yellow one. But it is also important that the tree 
should be decidedly prolific, setting its fruit regularly throughout 
the tree, and that the fruit should be of a uniform size. It is 
much better that all the apples on the tree should be of one 
medium size, than that there should be some very large and 
many very small. 

In the descriptions of different varieties of apples which 
follow, care will be taken to indicate those which have been 
found to be profitable for market. Descriptions will be given 
only of those varieties which have been found to be among the 
most desirable for cultivation in the Dominion. Many of these 
are fruits of the highest excellence, while some of them, though 
not attaining to the rank of “best” in flavor, possess, neverthe- 
less, such qualities of hardihood of tree, or productiveness, or 
beauty of appearance, combined with agreeable flavor, as to make 
them worthy of attention. 

Dwarf apple trees are often desirable in small gardens, more 
as an object of ornament than profit. They are very attractive, 
both when covered with blossoms and when laden with fruit. 
‘They come into bearing a little earlier than standard trees, and 
may be of any desired variety. A truly dwarf apple tree is pro- 
duced by budding or grafting a scion of such a variety as you 
may wish upon the Paradise apple stock. This is a very dwarf- 
growing variety of apple, rarely becoming much larger than 
a black currant bush, and the variety of apple that is grafted 
upon it is unable to attain its customary size of tree, but becomes 
instead a mere shrub. Another stock has been used for dwarfing 
the apple tree, known as the Doucin, but it does not lessen the 
size of the tree nearly as much as the Paradise stock. 


s 


VARIETIES OF APPLE, 65 


Half-standard apple trees is a term used to designate those 
which have been so pruned as to form the head of the tree much 
nearer the ground than is usually done. This method of forming 
low-headed trees is the true one in all the colder parts of the 
Dominion. The trees suffer much less from the severity of the 
climate, are healthier, longer lived, and yield more fruit than if 
pruned up with long, naked trunks. Those who have made trial 
of both methods report, that “trees allowed to branch out low, 
say about three feet from the ground, are generally healthy; but 
those that have a long trunk are sure to get black on the south- 
west side, and soon die off.” 


VARIETIES OF APPLE. 


It is not the purpose of this work to give a list of the names 
of all the varieties that are in cultivation, much less to give a 
description of them. Those only are described which are known 
to be (valuable, and adapted to the climate of some part of the 
Dominion, possessing sufficient points of excellence to make 
them worthy of the attention of the Canadian cultivator. The 
alphabetical arrangement has been adopted as being the most 
simple and convenient. 

ALEXANDER. — Emperor Alexander. — Russian Hmperor.— 
This is an exceedingly hardy variety, which originated in 
Russia ; has now been widely disseminated throughout the Do- 
minion, and has been found to be one of our most hardy sorts, 
almost as hardy as the Siberian crabs. It is reported to succeed 
well in the Ottawa region, and in Nova Scotia. The fruit is 
very large and showy, greenish yellow, faintly streaked with red 
on the shaded side; but on the exposed side, rich orange, very 
brilliantly marked and streaked with bright red. The flesh is 
tender, juicy, and of “good” flavor. The apples ripen in Octo- 
ber, and will keep into December. The tree grows vigorously, 
forming a spreading head, and bears abundant crops. Such is 
the fine size and handsome appearance of the fruit, and the 


66 VARIETIES OF APPLE. 


prolific character of the tree, that it may safely be planted, in 
limited quantity, for market ; for as it is not a long keeper, it is 
not safe to attempt to handle a very large number of barrels. 

Batpwin.—Steele’s Red Winter.— Woodpecker.—This very 
popular variety originated in the State of Massachusetts, and is 
well deserving of the high estimation in which it is held. In 
rich alluvial soils which are deficient in lime, the fruit is not as 
finely colored, nor as high flavored, as in limestone soils, and is 
subject to spots of bitter or dry rot; and in such soils, especially 
if there be a cold, wet subsoil, the tree suffers, becomes diseased, 
and in cold winters is badly injured, and: sometimes destroyed. 
The tree is not sufficiently hardy to withstand well the cold of 
our more severe latitudes; yet in dry soils, abounding in lime, 
it will withstand, unharmed, quite severe cold, as may be inferred 
from the fact that it is successfully cultivated in the apple 
region of Nova Scotia. In the Ottawa and St. Lawrence dis- 
tricts of Ontario, the Baldwin is reported as tender, though it 
succeeds in Frontenac and westward, through the greater part of 
the Province. 

The tree is a vigorous, upright grower, forming a spreading 
head, and exceedingly productive. The fruit is large, roundish, 
but narrowing towards the eye, yellow in the shade, but nearly 
covered with red in the sun. The flesh is yellowish white, crisp, 
sub-acid, ranking in quality as “ very good.” It ripens in De- 
cember, but is usually in its best condition in March, and will 
keep in a cool cellar until the middle of May. This is one of 
the most profitable varieties for market with which we are 
acquainted, when grown in favorable soil and climate. Com- 
bining early fruiting with great productiveness, good size, hand- 
some appearance, very good flavor, and long keeping, with a 
toughness of skin and firmness of texture which admit of being 
handled and transported without injury, it stands in the front 
rank of profitable varieties for the orchardist. 

Brnoni.—This apple also originated in the State of Massa- 
chusetts, and is worthy of more attention than it seems to have 


VARIETIES OF APPLE. 67 


cecaved from Canadian planters. It flourishes well on the rich 
alluvial soils of the western prairies, and. withstands the severity 
of that climate; hence we infer that it will be found sufficiently 
hardy to endure the climate throughout a very large. portion of 
our Dominion, and so far as it has been tried here, we have not 
heard of any lack of hardihood. 

The tree is @ vigorous, upright grower, forming a handsome 
spreading head, and an early and abundant bearer. The fruit is 
of medium size, rather below than above; roundish, striped and 
marbled with dark crimson, on a rich yellow ground ; having a 
yellow flesh, which is tender and juicy, with a pleasant sub-acid 
flavor, in quality “very good.” It is in use here during the 
latter part of August and the most of September. 

Ducuess or OuvpENBuRGH.—We can heartily commend this 
variety to every fruit grower in the Dominion, to those in the 
most favored fruit growing sections, and to him who has his 
dwelling where the winter is long and fierce. Originated in 
Russia, one might suppose on the very confines of Siberia, it 
endures the cold of Canada and of the far North-west most 
triumphantly. The tree is quite vigorous, upright in habit, and 
forming a rounded head, which has a very pleasing appearance 
when covered with its large, glossy, dark green leaves. It bears 
fruit when quite young, and most abundantly, which is very 
uniform in size, and remarkably fair and free from blemish. 

The fruit is of full medium size, sometimes large, very regu- 
larly formed, and of a very attractive, showy appearance; always 
eommanding a ready sale in the markets, as it is especially 
valuable for cooking, being for this purpose without a riva: 
in its season. The skin is smooth, with a yellow ground, most 
handsomely streaked and washed with red, and covered with a 
light blue bloom. The flesh is yellowish white, tender, juicy, 
with a brisk sub-acid flavor. The fruit ripens here during the 
first half of September, and will not keep long. It is not usually 
ranked very high in flavor; but as grown in our climate, it should 
stand at least as “good,” and in those sections where but few 


68 VARIETIES OF APPLE. 


varieties can be grown, it will stand high on the list as a very 
valuable fruit. Those favorably situated for disposing quickly 
of a considerable quantity of September apples, will find this a 
very profitable market variety. 

Earty Harvest.—Yellow Harvest.—Early French Reinette. 
This excellent summer variety cannot be grown with the same 
results in all parts of the country. To be grown in its full 
perfection, it requires a soil abounding in lime and potash, and 
these seem to be essential to both the vigor and longevity of the 
tree and the full development of size and flavor in the fruit. 
Where such soil can be had, the tree does not seem to be very 
tender, growing in nearly all parts of Ontario, and in Nova Scotia. 
But when grown in rich alluvial soils, deficient in lime, and par- 
ticularly if not thoroughly and deeply drained, the tree is tender, 
the fruit often very badly spotted, cracking and dropping off 
without attaining its full size; and those specimens which may 
be measurably fair are usually deficient in flavor. But when a 
suitable soil can be supplied, the tree seems healthy, and the 
fruit fair, smooth and of excellent quality. 

The tree is upright, a moderate grower, forming a spreading 
head, bearing early and abundantly. The fruit is of medium 
size, roundish, smooth, of a bright straw color; the flesh white, 
tender, juicy and rich, with a pleasant, sprightly sub-acid flavor ; 
in quality, “very good ;” ripe the end of July and first of August. 
It is excellent both for cooking and as a dessert fruit, and well 
deserving a place in every collection where it can be grown, and 
in case of doubt, well worth a trial. 

Earty Joz.—Without question this is the richest, most 
delightfully flavored, and best of all the summer dessert apples. 
It flourishes best in rich soil, and seems to be nearly, if not 
quite, as hardy as the Red Astrachan. Unfortunately the tree 
is a very slow grower when young, and consequently nurserymen 
grow as few as they possibly can, and never send them out to 
customers without expecting, and usually they receive it,-a consid- 
erable scolding on account of the insignificant appearance of the 


VARIETIES OF APPLE 69 


tree. On this account it has not been very widely disseminated. 
fo grow the tree to the size of a Baldwin at three or four years 
from the bud, would require a lengthened period of cultivation, 
which would fully double the cost of the tree. Notwithstanding 
this habit of its early life, the tree seems to make some amends 
as it acquires age, and attains to a fair size, bearing early and 
abundantly. 

The apple is below medium, yellow, washed and striped with 
red, and overspread with a thin bloom. The flesh is yellowish, 
fine grained, tender, juicy, with a delicate, aromatic, pear-like 
flavor, quality, “best.” Ripe the latter part of August and first 
of September. 

This variety does remarkably well as a dwarf tree, and can 
be so grown in grounds of limited extent, where its delicious, 
and at the same time handsome fruit can be gathered fresh from 
the tree, which is requisite if it is to be enjoyed in the perfection 
of its flavor. 

Esopus SpirzensurcH.—We have in this another of those 
excellent varieties which attain their full development only in 
soils that abound in lime and potash, and in such soils, it is a 
fruit of the very highest excellence, and the tree a very abundant 
bearer. Yet in most soils this apple is well worthy of a place 
in any collection, on account of the very fine quality of the fruit, 
which, in. our opinion, in its combination of excellence for the 
dessert and for cooking, is unsurpassed by any other apple, if, 
indeed, there be any that can equal it. 

It originated at Esopus, on the Hudson River, in the State 
of New York, a district famous for the excellence of its apples, 
whence it has been widely disseminated. The tree is a slender 
and slow grower, with long and drooping branches, and except 
in soils abounding in lime, is but a moderate bearer. The fruit 
is large and oblong, in color bright red, profusely dotted with 
yellow russet dots, with a yéllow flesh, fine grained, firm, crisp, 
juicy and rich, with a peculiarly delicious flavor; quality, ‘“ best.” 
It is in use from December to March, and is everywhere, and in 
every form in which apples are served, particularly acceptable. 


70 _ VARIETIES OF APPLE. 


Yet we cannot recommend the planting of this tree extensively 
for market. Only the fortunate possessor of the peculiar soil 
requisite to the full development of tree and fruit may venture 
beyond what will supply the wants of his own family. There 
are other sorts less fastidious in their choice of soils, which can 
be better trusted to yield remunerative crops. In point of hardi- 
hood, it is about equal to the Baldwin, capable of enduring a 
very considerable degree of cold, when planted on deep, dry soil. 

With the exception of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence districts, 
it is grown generally throughout Ontario; and we are informed 
that it is much esteemed in the apple-growing region of Nova 
Scotia. 

Famevse.—Pomme de Neige.—Snow Apple.—The precise 
origin of this favorite apple is unknown, and whether it was long 
ago introduced from France, or had its birth-place in the Province 
of Quebec, it has most emphatically made Canada its home. 
Here it is grown in a perfection seldom elsewhere seen ; here its 
fine qualities are fully brought out, and here its ruddy fruit is 
admired and appreciated by those of every age and every rank. 

The tree is hardy, very hardy; standing in the next rank to 
the Siberian crabs, and thriving in any properly drained soil, in 
well nigh every part of the Dominion. It isa moderate grower, 
with large, glossy green leaves and dark shoots, and bears - 
abundantly and early. The fruit is deep dark red in the sun, 
growing lighter in the shade, where it is sometimes a pale green- 
ish yellow; the flesh is snow white, very tender, breaking, juicy, 
almost melting, with a delicate aroma, and most agreeable mild 
flavor ; quality, “very good.” To be used only for the dessert. 
Ripe in December and January. The fruit is sometimes kept 
until April, but usually at the expense of more or less of its 
flavor. 

In some parts of Western Ontario, the Snow Apple is subject 
to the attacks, in some seasons, of a parasitic fungus, which grows 
on the skin of the fruit, producing black spots, which are some- 
times so numerous as very materially to disfigure and injure the 


VARIETIES OF APPLE. 71 


fruit, dwarfing its growth; impairing its flavor and causing pre- 
mature decay. This fungus seems to be more prevalent in hot 
and dry seasons and in the warmer parts of the Province. Those 
who reside where the fruit is exempt from these black spots, and 
consequently always fair and of fine flavor and appearance, could 
make an orchard of this variety very valuable by shipping the 
fruit to the Chicago or New York market, where it will command 
ready sale at the best prices. 

GotpEn Russet.—Lnglish Golden Russet.—Golden Russet 
of Western New York.—This is a very valuable market fruit, 
and has given great satisfaction to those who have planted it for 
market purposes. ‘The tree is sufficiently hardy to thrive well in 
most of Ontario, and in the apple region of Nova Scotia; it is 
even more hardy than the Baldwin, and is said to flourish along 
the St. Lawrence, in the Counties of Stormont and Glengarry. 
It comes into bearing early, yields abundant crops of very even 
sized fruit, and seems to flourish in all soils, especially in the rich 
alluvial soils of the West. Considerable confusion exists in 
regard to the variety; there are so many Russets, and Golden 
Russets, and English Russets, and American Russets, that it is 
difficult to decide upon the precise kind intended ; but this one, 
which is so valuable and profitable for market, may readily be 
distinguished from all others by the very numerous white dots 
upon the young shoots, which give them a decided speckled 
appearance. ‘The trees grow vigorously upright, forming spread- 
ing and somewhat irregular heads. 

The fruit is of medium size, roundish, very uniform, covered 
with a dull yellowish russet, somewhat bronzed on the exposed 
side ; the flesh is often greenish white, always fine grained, firm, 
crisp, juicy, and of a high, mildly sub-acid, flavor; quality, “very 
good.” Itis ripe in January, and keeps well until May; and 
bears handling and transportation remarkably well. 

GRAVENSTEIN.—We must thank Germany for having pro- 
duced this most excellent autumn apple, beautiful in appearance 
and superior in quality. It has been widely disseminated, and 


72 VARIETIES OF APPLE. 


is as valuable in Canada as in the north of Europe. The tree 
grows upright and stout in the nursery, and forms a fine, large, 
spreading head in the orchard. It thrives well in Nova Scotia, 
and in the greater part of Ontario, bearing fruit at Arnprior, in 
the County of Renfrew. It comes into bearing early, and is 
very productive. 

The fruit is large, bright yellow at maturity, and beautifully 
striped with various shades of red and orange ; flesh tender, 
crisp, juicy, and of a high aromatic flavor; quality, “best.” It 
ripens in October, and will keep through November. Valuable 
both as a cooking and dessert apple, and always commanding the 
highest price of any apple, of its season, in the markets. To those 
who will attend to the gathering and shipping of this apple in 
the early part of October, and are not too remote from the large 
markets, this variety will be a very valuable one to plant in 
moderate quantity. 

Grimzs’ Gonpen Prepin.—We describe this apple here be- 
cause of its great excellence, and because we believe it will thrive 
well in a large part of the Dominion. At present it has been 
planted in Canada only to a very limited extent, but it is well 
worthy of a most extensive trial. Wherever it has been tried 
it is much esteemed for the hardihood of the tree, and its uniform 
productiveness every year. So far as our observation extends, 
we have found the tree moderately vigorous, upright habit, with 
peculiarly large knobs at the base of the branches where they 
join the main stem or limb. The fruit is medium, roundish, of 
arich golden yellow, slightly netted with russet; flesh yellow, 
firm, fine grained, crisp, juicy, rich, with a peculiar spicy sub-acid. 
flavor, which is certainly “very good;” and we are inclined to 
believe, that after a.more full acquaintance, it will rank as 
“best.” 

Hussarpston Nonsucu.—This fine, large apple originated 
in the State of Massachusetts, and thrives well in all the apple 
region of the Dominion. The tree is a vigorous grower, forms a 
large, spreading head, and yields abundant crops of fair, beauti- 


VARIETIES OF APPLE, 73 


feily formed, even sized fruit, and is well worthy of a place in 
every orchard. 

The apples are large, roundish, narrowing towards the eye, 
so regular in outline that they could hardly be more symmetrical 
had they been turned with a lathe. The ground color is yellowish, 
irregularly striped with various shades of red, and often thinly 
overspread with russet on the shaded side. The fiesh is yellowish, 
juicy, tender, blended sweet and acid, producing a very agreeable 
flavor; quality, “very good.” It ripens towards the end of 
October, and keeps until January. This variety commands a 
ready sale in the city markets, and we believe it would be profit- 
able as a market variety, bearing in mind that it is not a late 
keeper. 

JERSEY SWEETING.—This is a very good sweet autumn variety, 
and we are disposed to give it the preference over the other sweet 
varieties ripening at that season. The tree is a vigorous, erect 
grower in the nursery, but comes into bearing young, and does 
not seem to become a large tree in the orchard. It is not suffi- 
ciently hardy to be classed with the Snow Apple, Red Astrachan 
and Duchess of Oldenburgh in that respect; but it flourishes 
well in all soils, and bears immense crops. 

The fruit is of medium size, with a thin, greenish yellow 
skin, which is streaked with red, and in exposed specimens 
nearly covered with a dull red. The flesh is yellowish white, 
very fine grained and tender, abounding in juice, which is very 
sweet, yet of a sprightly flavor; quality, “very good.” It ripens 
gradually from the early part of September till the middle or 
end of October. It is valuable for all purposes of a sweet apple. 

Kine or Tompxins County.—Not ranking with our most 
hardy sorts, it nevertheless thrives well in the apple growing 
sections of all the Provinces. It is a vigorous growing variety, 
forming a large, spreading head, and bears good crops of fruit 
every year. The fruit is large, yellowish, shaded with red and 
striped with crimson ; flesh yellow, somewhat coarse grained, but 
tender, juicy, with a very agreeable rich vinous flavor; quality, | 


74 VARIETIES OF APPLE. 


“very good.” In use from January to March. This variety has 
been very highly recommended as a market fruit, but we notice 
in ita tendency to drop from the tree, especially during the 
high winds of September, which materially lessens its value as 
a profitable market fruit. We therefore advise market orchardists 
to plant it in sheltered positions, and not too freely at first. 

Kuswick Copiin.—This variety is valuable in some of the 
colder parts of the Dominion, though not sufficiently hardy to 
endure as great severity of climate as the Snow Apple, St. Law- 
rence and Alexander. In the County of Renfrew the tree lives 
and bears fruit, but it isnot healthy. In the milder parts, where 
most varieties succeed well, it is quite superseded by higher 
flavored sorts. It is valued chiefly as a cooking apple, being 
used for that purpose before the fruit is fully grown ; but to our 
taste the Early Harvest is much to be preferred to it for all pur- 
poses. 

The tree is moderately vigorous, upright in habit, and forming 
a small, round head. It comes into bearing very early, and is 
enormously productive ; flourishing finely on rich alluvial soils. 
The fruit is very variable in size, running from small to large ; 
conical in form, with one or two raised lines from the stem to 
the eye; greenish yellow in color, with sometimes a faint blush 
on the sunny side ; the flesh yellowish white, juicy, with a brisk 
acid flavor ; quality not above “good.” Ripe last of September 
to middle of October. We have never seen this apple attacked 
by that parasitic fungus which is sometimes so injurious to the 
Early Harvest, and on this account it will be valuable where that 
suffers frequently from this cause. 

Lance YrtLow Boucs.—Sweet Bough.— Early Sweet Bough. 
Sweet Harvest.—This is the best early sweet apple, ripening in 
harvest, not all at once, but gradually, from the middle of J uly 
to the end of August. The fruit is usually large, somewhat 
conical in form ; color a very light greenish yellow ; flesh white, 
tender, juicy and sweet. It is very good when baked, or as a 
dessert fruit. 


VARIETIES OF APPLE. 75: 


The tree grows stout, moderately vigorous, forming a fine 
round head, and is a regular and abundant bearer every year. 
The tree is sufficiently hardy to thrive well in most parts of the 
country, only the extremely cold parts need be excepted, and 
does well on all dry soils. 

Late StrawBerRy.—Autumn Strawberry.—A very handsome 
and. excellent variety, which originated in Western New York, 
and has been very generally disseminated. The tree is reputed 
to be hardy, enduring the western climate as far north, at least, 
as Iowa, and will, beyond doubt, be sufficiently so to thrive in 
the greater part of Canada. It is deserving of more attention 
from our fruit growers than it has yet received, especially as a 
dessert fruit, for it combines with excellence of quality, a very 
attractive appearance, while the tree is a constant and abundant 
bearer. The apple is full medium size, roundish conical, red, 
striped with darker red, beautifully shaded according to the 
exposure to light, and covered with a thin bloom ; flesh yellowish 
white, juicy and tender, with a very pleasant vinous flavor; 
quality “very good ;” indeed, none better in its season, which is 
all the month of November. 

Monmovutu Pippin.—Red-cheek Pippin.—Considerable inte- 
rest seems to have been manifested within a few years past by 
planters, in some sections, in the cultivation of this variety. It 
derives its name from the county in the State of New Jersey in 
which it originated, and has been successfully grown in the more 
southern New England States; but from all we can at present 
learn of the tree, we do not believe that it possesses that degree 
of hardihood which will make it valuable to those not residing 
in the most favored apple districts of Canada. The tree has an 
erect habit of growth, is moderately vigorous, and a good bearer. 
The apples are large, pale greenish yellow, with a ruddy cheek; 
flesh yellowish white, juicy, sub-acid, with considerable perfume ; 
quality “very good.” In use from December to March. 

Moruer.—We desire to call attention to this variety, on 
account of the hardihood of the tree and excellence of the fruit, 


76 VARIETIES OF APPLE. 


believing that it will be very valuable in some of our colder 
districts. The tree has been found to be perfectly hardy in the 
State of Maine and the Territory of Nebraska, hence we have 
good reason to expect that it will be a very desirable addition to’ 
our varieties. It has an upright habit of growth, is moderately 
vigordus, and a good bearer. The fruit is large, color clear rich 
red, handsomely splashed and marbled with darker red; flesh 
yellow, juicy, very tender, highly aromatic, of a rich sub-acid 
flavor ; quality “best.” In use from December to February. 

NortHern Spy—This is one of our more hardy sorts, men- 
tioned in the valuable report of the Fruit Growers’ Association 
of Ontario, as succeeding in all parts of that Province, even in 
the Ottawa and St. Lawrence districts, and classed in point of 
hardiness with the Fameuse and St. Lawrence. Yet we notice 
that an enthusiastic amateur, residing near Arnprior, in the 
County of Renfrew, says that it fails with him. It is possible 
that Arnprior, which lies on a parallel some one hundred and 
twenty miles north of Toronto, is beyond the limit of the suc- 
cessful culture of this variety, though the Fameuse and St. 
Lawrence have been in successful bearing at that place for many 
years. 

The tree grows naturally very erect, forming a close, compact 
‘head, which requires careful thinning out in order to admit 
sufficient air and light to perfect the fruit. It is slow in coming 
into bearing, but when once arrived at the bearing state, it 
yields large crops. The buds put forth late, usually ten days 
later than on most of the trees in the orchard, and on this 
account the fruit sometimes escapes late frosts which destroy 
the earlier blooming sorts. It requires a soil rich in phosphate 
of lime, or made so by the application of a plentiful supply of 
bone dust, else a large portion of the fruit will be undersized and 
flavorless. 

The fruit, when well grown, is large, handsomely striped 
with light and dark purplish red, and covered with a thin bloom; 
flesh white, very fine grained, crisp, with a delicious, mild, 


VARIETIES OF APPLE. 17 


sub-acid flavor. But such fruit can only be grown with good 
cultivation, and a full exposure of the fruit to light and air, and 
then it will rank in quality as “best.” But if the tree be 
neglected, the top over-crowded, the fruit grown in shade, and 
the soil poor, there will very likely be a great abundance of small, 
half-colored, flavorless apples, not e¥en worthy of being called 
good. In use from January to June, and to the last retains its 
fine, sprightly, refreshing flavor. 

Pomms Grisr.—This is a favorite dessert apple throughout 
Canada, generally supposed to have originated in the Province of 
Quebec, and is sufficiently hardy to endure considerable severity 
of climate. The tree grows but moderately, usually erect in the 
nursery, and forming in the orchard a small rounded head ; comes 
early inte bearing, and yields large crops. The fruit is usually 
below medium size, flattened in form, color greenish gray russet, 
with a little red on the sunny side in exposed specimens; flesh 
yellowish, fine grained, tender, rich and agreeable flavor ; quality 
“ very good.” 

Pomme Grisz D’Or.—Swayzie Pomme Grise.—We are inclined 
to believe that this variety originated on what is known as the 
Swayzie farm, a few miles above Niagara, on the Niagara River. 
The original tree was blown down during the summer of 1870, 
and was standing in an irregular clump of apple trees, having the 
appearance of being the original seedling nursery, from which 
were raised the first apple trees planted out in orchard form on 
the farm. From this place, certainly, the variety has been dis- 
seminated through western New York and a considerable part of 
western Ontario; and as we have never seen any description of . 
this apple in any work on Pomology, nor heard of any trees not 
derived from the above named source, we have no doubt but that 
it originated on the Swayzie farm. 

The tree is a moderately vigorous, upright grower, forming in 
the orchard a medium-sized tree, with a rounded head. It ‘has 
proved to be hardy in localities some distance north of Toronto ; 


but we are not aware that it has yet been tried in the Ottawa 
7 


78 VARIETIES OF APPLE. 


and St. Lawrence districts. It comes soon into bearing and 
yields good crops of fruit, though not as abundant as the Baldwin 
or R. I. Greening. 

The fruit is of medium size, usually a little larger than the 
Pomme Grise, roundish oblong ; color a bright cinnamon russet, 
with a golden glow on the side next the sun; flesh white, crisp, 
breaking, juicy, with a peculiar aromatic, pear-like flavor ; quality 
“best.” In use from January to May and June. It is pre-emi- 
nently a dessert apple, and in its season has very few equals, 
none superior. 

Rep AstracHan.—This very valuable and handsome apple 
was introduced into England from Sweden in 1816, and from 
thence has found its way into Canada, where it is very much at 
home, ranking among our best and most hardy sorts. We had 
supposed that it would thrive where any apple tree would live, 
short of a Siberian Crab; but we have ‘recently learned that at 
Arnprior, in the County of Renfrew, it has not succeeded in the 
hands of at least one most zealous cultivator of fruits. Yet it 
thrives in Maine and Minnesota, and is usually hardy. 

The tree is a vigorous, upright grower, forming a rounded 
head, comes very early into bearing, and yields abundant crops. 
The fruit is full medium size, roundish, color deep crimson, 
covered with a light bloom ; the flesh is white, crisp and juicy, 
with a rich acid flavor; quality “very good.” Ripe about the 
first of August. A very popular variety in the market, selling 
readily ; excellent for cooking. A few trees of this apple might 
be profitably planted for market purposes by those living near 
large towns. It does not keep long, and therefore must soon be 
in the hands of consumers. 

Rope Istanp GReEeninc.—Would that this valuable apple 
were only a little more hardy, then it might be recommended 
without reserve ; but it suffers too much from the climate in all 
the colder sections, such as the region of the St. Lawrence and 
Ottawa in Ontario, the most of Quebec and New Brunswick. It 
thrives best in warm, well-drained soils, abounding in lime, 


VARIETIES OF APPLE. 79 


requires good cultivation, and is much benefited by an occasional 
dressing of wood ashes. 

The tree is a vigorous, but very crooked grower in the nursery, 
and forms a large, spreading head in the orchard. It soon comes 
into bearing, and is.exceedingly productive, yielding fair, even- 
sized fruit. On this account it is very extensively planted for 
market purposes, being one of the most profitable sorts. 

The fruit is large, roundish, green at first, but gradually 
changing to a greenish yellow at maturity, with sometimes a dull 
red cheek; flesh yellow, fine grained, very juicy, with a lively, 
pleasant acid flavor; quality “very good.” In use from Decem- 
ber to March. 

Risston Pipriw.—This is truly a splendid apple with us, and 
though our cousins over the border do not esteem it as highly as 
they do the Baldwin, Swaar, and some others, yet in our climate 
it is one of the very best. The tree is sufficiently hardy to 
thrive throughout a large part of the Dominion, though it is not 
able to endure a climate like that of the Ottawa district in 
Ontario. It flourishes in the apple regions of Nova Scotia and 
New Brunswick, where it maintains fully its high character. 

The fruit is full medium in size, sometimes large, especially 
on young trees; color yellow, mingled with russet, shaded and 
splashed with red on the exposed side; flesh deep yellow, crisp, 
with a rich, peculiarly aromatic, sub-acid flavor; quality “best.” 
The tree is moderately vigorous, and bears young and abundantly. 

This apple commands a ready sale, at the very highest prices, 
in the markets of Great Britain, and might be advantageously 
and profitably planted in considerable quantities by the orchardist 
who will carefully gather the fruit early in October, sort it prop- 
erly, and ship it at once by steamer to the trans-Atlantic markets, 
where its reputation is fully equal to that of the famous Green 
Newtown Pippin. 

Roxnury Russet.—Boston Russet.—Putnam Russet.—This 
varicty has been largely planted for market purposes, for which 
it is particularly valuable, on account of its long-keeping qualities, 


80 VARIETIES OF APPLE. 


and ability to endure handling and transportation without injury. 
The fruit is a little above medium size,—when under good 
cultivation, large; color dull greenish russet when gathered, 
gradually changing to yellow russet at maturity, occasionally 
flushed with reddish brown in the sun ; flesh greenish white, not 
very juicy, with a pleasant, mild, sub-acid flavor; quality “good.” 
Ripens up in February and will keep until July. 

The tree, when young, has the perverse, crooked habit of the 
Greening, and forms in the orchard a spreading, somewhat strag- 
gling head. Itisas hardy as the Rhode Island Greening, and 
about as prolific. ? 

Saint Lawrence.—Springle.—This is one of our very hardy 
varieties, bearing fruit even in the Ottawa district of Ontario, in 
the Province of Quebec, in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. 
It originated in Montreal, as we are kindly informed by J. H. 
Springle, Esq., about fifty years ago, in the garden of the late 
Henry Schroden, from the seeds of some decayed apples thrown 
ona heap of refuse. The original tree was still alive and healthy 
a few years ago. The iree is a vigorous, upright grower, forming 
in the orchard a fine spreading head, and is abundantly productive. 
The fruit is large, handsomely striped with various shades of 
purplish red on a yellow ground ; flesh almost as white as the 
Fameuse, sometimes stained with red; crisp, juicy, with a pleasant, 
somewhat aromatic, vinous flavor; quality of fruit grown in the 
colder sections “very good,” in the warmer portions, only “good.” 

At the Provincial Exhibition of 1870, there was exhibited 
by Mr. Shuttleworth an apple much resembling the St. Lawrence, 
which, however, seemed to ripen later and possess a more sprightly 
and spicy flavor. We believe it to be well worthy of a trial. 

' Swaar.—Originated in the same region whence came the 
Esopus Spitzenburgh. This variety has been widely dissemi- 
nated, and in certain sections is much esteemed. In the milder 
sections, on stony, rich soil, it flourishes well, and the fruit is of 
excellent flavor; but in the colder portions the trees suffer from 
the severity of the winter, and eventually perish. It is but a 


VARIETIES OF APPLE. 81 


moderately vigorous grower, very apt to be crooked in the nursery, 
and requires good cultivation. We cannot recommend it for 
general cultivation, though those who are so fortunate as to 
possess a favorable soil and climate, will find it a fruit of great 
excellence; deep rich golden yellow when ripe, with an exceed- 
ingly rich, spicy flavor and perfume. In use in February and 
March. , 

Tatman’s Sweet.—This is the best sweet winter apple for 
Canada that has been brought to our notice. The tree is very 
hardy, thriving and fruiting in the colder, we had almost said 
coldest, parts of the Dominion, keeping company with the Snow 
Apple and the St. Lawrence. It is an upright, vigorous grower, 
forms a large spreading head, and bears large crops. The fruit 
is of medium size, greenish white in autumn, becoming pale straw 
color at maturity, flesh white, fine grained, juicy, rich and very 
sweet. A most valuable variety for baking, surpassing for this 
purpose all other sweet winter apples that we have tried. May 
be used from December to April. There is but a limited demand 
for sweet apples in market; consequently, notwithstanding the 
hardihood of this tree, and its great productiveness, we do not 
advise orchardists to plant it largely for market purposes. 

Trtorsky.—It is to be expected that this apple, which origi- 
nated in Russia, should be hardy in this climate, and such is the 
case so far as it has been tested; and it has been found to flourish 
in the equally cold climate of Northern Minnesota. We strongly 
advise residents of the coldest sections to give this variety a care- 
ful trial, in the expectation that it will prove to be more hardy 
than the Red Astrachan, and equally as valuable for summer use. 
The tree grows erect and forms a spreading head, begins to bear 
at two years from the bud, and produces large crops every year. 
The leaves are very large, of a light glossy green, giving the tree 
a very pleasing appearance. Where the climate is too cold to 
admit of the tree being grown as a standard, we believe it would 
auswer admirably grown either as a half-standard or dwarf. 

The fruit is of medium size, roundish, beautifully striped with 


82 VARIETIES OF APPLE. 


red ona yellow ground, and covered with a light bloom; flesh 
white and juicy, with a pleasant, sprightly acid flavor; quality 
“good.” In use the last of July to middle of August. The very 
attractive appearance of the fruit would no doubt give it a ready 
sale in market, and those favorably situated for disposing of sum- 
mer fruit might plant a limited quantity for market purposes with 
profit. 

Twenty Ounor.--Twenty Ounce Apple.—Cayuga Red Streak. 
This is a very popular variety in market on account of its large 
size, handsome appearance, and cooking qualities; and no doubt 
in suitable soil and climate it is a profitable variety, in moderate 
quantity, to the orchardist. The tree is tolerably hardy, not equal- 
ing the Red Astrachan in this respect, but more hardy than 
the Rhode Island Greening. It is a moderately vigorous, erect 
grower, and forms a neat, compact head, and bears good crops. 
The fruit is large, always fair and showy, being handsomely mar- 
bled and splashed with red on a yellow or greenish-yellow ground; 
flesh is yellowish, coarse-grained, of a sprightly sub-acid flavor; 
quality “good.” May be used in October, and will keep through 
January. 

Wacener.—Under proper cultivation this will prove to be a 
very valuable apple. It has not been sufficiently tried in the 
various parts of our Dominion to admit of any positive expres- 
sion of its hardihood, further than that it is known to succeed 
well in some parts of the Province of Quebec. From the reports 
that have come to us from various sections, we believe that it 
will prove to be a very valuable variety over a large part of the 
country, but not quite as hardy as Red Astrachan or the Tal- 
man’s Sweet. The tree is thrifty, upright habit, forming a toler- 
ably rounded head, that requires considerable thinning out in 
order to obtain good-sized fruit. It bears young, abundantly, 
and every year. 

The fruit is full medium size, nearly covered with crimson; 
flesh yellowish, fine grained, very tender, juicy, with a slightly 
vinous flavor; quality “very good.” Ripens in December, and 
will keep until February. 


VARIETIES OF APPLE. 83 


It has many of the qualities of a good market apple—a healthy, 
early fruiting, prolific tree ; fruit of good size, pleasing appearance, 
and very agreeable flavor. How well it will bear transportation 
to distant markets, and the rough handling too common in these 
days, we can not yet say. 

NOVA SCOTIA APPLES. 

We are indebted to Mr. R. W. Starr for the following de- 
scriptions of four varieties of Apples, which originated in Nova 
Scotia, and are much esteemed in that Province : 

Surron’s Earty was grown by Mr. Wm. Sutton, of Corn- 
wallis, from seed of the Ribston Pippin. It has not yet been 
thoroughly tested, but it promises well. The fruit is large, conic, 

slightly ribbed ; skin yellowish white, with faint russet markings 

around the stem; flesh’ white, juicy, with a pleasant sub-acid 
flavour. Ripe from the 20th to the last of August. The tree is 
thrifty, with a spreading habit, and the young shoots stout, dark 
and downy. 

Bisnor’s Bournz.—Another seedling of Sution’s from the 
Ribston Pippin. The tree is hardy, a quick grower, forms a 
spreading head, the young wood bright and tough. It bears 
abundant crops of fair fruit, which is much prized for stewing 
and baking, as it contains a great deal of saccharine, although 
classed assub-acid. The fruit is of medium size, roundish conical, 
pale yellow in the shade, and obscurely splashed and striped in 
the sun ; flesh is white, crisp, tender, juicy, mild sub-acid, slightly 
aromatic ; season November and December. 

Marquis or Lornz.—A seedling from the Gravenstein, by 
Sutton. The tree is large, vigorous and spreading ; young wood 
stout and dark; the leaves large, dense, dark green ; the blossoms 
are large and deep rose-coloured ; the fruit large to very large, 
oblate, sometimes conic; the skin smooth, yellowish white, thickly 
sprinkled with carmine and splashed with broken stripes of a 
darker shade of the same color; dots small and brown; stem 
short and small, inserted in a wide, deep, regular, russeted cavity; 
basin large, ridged and irregular; calyx large, open, with the 


84 THE APRICOT. 


segments reflexed; flesh white, breaking, somewhat coarse 
grained, juicy, pleasant, sprightly sub-acid ; season November 
and December. A very promising variety. 

Morrton’s Rep.—This is supposed to be a native, having 
been found growing on the farm of the late Elkanah Morton, of 
Cornwallis. It is a moderately strong grower, with spreading, 
pendulous branches, a very good bearer and a good market apple. 
The fruit is of medium size, round, inclining to conic, and always 
fair ; skin smooth, of a dull greyish white, nearly covered with 
light and dark red, through which the grey skin shows in faint 
striated markings ; ealyx inclined to large, closed; basin broad, 
shallow and regular; stem medium, sometimes fleshy and 
knobbed, inserted in a shallow even cavity; flesh white, tender, 
fine grained, juicy, pleasant sub-acid ; season December and Jan- 
uary, but will keep longer. 


THE APRICOT. 


This very handsome and delicious fruit can be grown in the 
open air only in the most favored parts of the Province of 
Ontario, and even there the fruit is very liable to be destroyed 
by late spring frosts, on account of the habit of the tree in put- 
ting forth its blossoms at the first approach of spring. The cur- 
culio also prey upon this fruit, and unless closely watched and 
kept in subjection, will not leave a single specimen to ripen. In 
other parts of the Dominion, this fruit can only be grown in 
the orchard-house. 

It is propagated by budding on the Apricot, Plum or Peach. 
The Plum stock is much better than the Peach, especially for 
planting on heavy soils, the tree being healthier and the fruit 
of finer flavor. 

The following varieties have been selected from some fifty 
names as most worthy of attention. 

Biack orn Purpte Apricor.—This variety is the most hardy 
of any with which we are acquainted, and it is mainly on that 


THE CHERRY. 85 


account that it is mentioned here. The tree is nearly as hardy 
as a plum, and the small purplish Apricots bear a strong resem- 
blance to that fruit. The flavor is pleasant, though usually a 
little astringent, and in point of quality not to be compared to 
the finer sorts. Ripe in August. 

Brepa.—This is a very productive and high flavored sort, 
fruit small, orange color, rich and juicy. Ripe beginning of 
August. 

Earty Goupen.—The fruit of this variety is small, color 
pale orange, juicy, sweet, and of good flavor. Tree vigorous and 
very productive. Ripe in July. 

Moorpark.—tThis old variety—for it has been in cultivation 
for about a hundred and fifty years—is one of the largest and 
best. The fruit is orange color, with a red cheek, sweet, rich, 
and juicy, with an exceedingly luscious flavor. Ripe in August. 

Rep Mascurine.—This is one of the earliest sorts, and the 
tree among the most hardy, and productive. The fruit is small, 
bright yellow spotted with red, juicy and pleasant flavored, but 
not rich. 


THE CHERRY. 


This fruit is divided into two quite distinct classes, varying not 
only in the character of the fruit, but also in the hardihood of 
the tree. The class known as the Bigarreau and Heart Cherries 
yields larger and sweeter fruit than the other, which contains the 
Duke and Morello varieties; but the Dukes and Morellos are 
much hardier, withstanding a much greater degree of cold, and 
the fruit is far better for all culinary purposes. 

The cherry makes a very pretty ornamental tree, and in the 
northern part of Germany the custom largely prevails of planting 
it as a road-side tree, so that the roads often pass, for many miles 
together, through an avenue of cherry trees. Such a custom 
might well be imitated in many parts of Canada, adding much 
to the beauty of the country and the comfort of the inhabitants. 

The soil best suited to the cherry is a stony, gravelly, or 


86 THE CHERRY. 


sandy loam, deep and dry. In a wet soil it will not flourish, but 
soon becomes diseased and dies. The Dukes and Morellos will 
grow in heavier soil than the Hearts and Bigarreaus, but it also 
must be dry. Indeed, if the soil be thoroughly drained to a good 
depth below the surface, especially if there be a porous subsoil 
through which the surplus moisture passes readily away, there 
the cherry will do well, even in strong clayey surface soil. Hill 
sides and even hill tops are better for the cherry than low bot- 
toms or valleys. 

The trees may be planted about eighteen feet apart, indeed 
the slower growing Dukes and Morellos are far enough apart at 
sixteen feet. They will require very little pruning, only an occa- 
sional removal of interlacing branches, and this should be done 
in July, when the wounds will heal quickly. They are propa- 
gated by budding; for although they can be grafted, yet in our 
climate this method is not as uniformly successful. The best 
stocks are seedlings of the varieties of cherry known as the Ma- 
haleb and the Mazzard, the former being thought better adapted 
than the Mazzard to a greater variety of soils. 

HEART AND BIGARREAU CHERRIES. 

These thrive well in the warmer parts of Ontario, and along 
the borders of the great lakes, and in a few sheltered situations 
not immediately influenced by these large bodies of water. 
Some varieties do well also in the fruit districts of Nova Scotia. 
In the colder parts of Ontario, throughout the St. Lawrence and 
Ottawa Districts, and in all the other Provinces of the Domi- 
nion, with limited exceptions, the climate is too severe for their 
successful culture. Descriptions of a few of the most desirable 
sorts are here given. 

Bicarreav.—Yellow Spanish. White Bigarreau.—On the 
whole, we give the preference to this variety over all the other 
light-colored cherries. The fruit is of large size, beautiful in 
appearance, and of excellent quality. The color is a pale yellow, 
handsomely marked with bright red dots, and marbled with red 
on the exposed side; the flesh is pale yellow, with a good deal 


THE CHERRY. 87 


of firmness, but juicy, sweet, rich, and of exceedingly agreeable 
flavor. It ripens about the first of July. The tree is a thrifty 
grower, and makes a large top with a handsome rounded outline. 
It is very productive, and is one of the varieties recommended for 
planting in Nova Scotia. 

Brack Eaciz.—As its name imports, this is a black cherry, 
and was introduced from England, where it was raised from a 
seed of the Bigarreau, described above, fertilized by the May- 
duke. It is very remarkable that the progeny of a yellow cherry 
fertilized by a red one, should be black, but such, nevertheless, 
is the received history of this variety. The tree is vigorous and 
of upright habit, usually bearing moderate crops, but sometimes 
the fruit is very abundant. The cherries are large, heart-shaped, 
color deep purplish black, continuing through the flesh, which 
is juicy, rich and high flavored. Ripe in July. 

Buack Hawx.—-We have been much pleased with this_ 
variety, and feel disposed to place it in the front rank of the 
Black Cherries. It was raised by Dr. Kirtland, of Cleveland, 
Ohio. The tree has thus far proved to be healthy and vigorous, 
and abundantly productive. The fruit is large, very dark glossy 
black; the flesh dark purple, firm, juicy, sweet and rich. It 
ripens early in July, a little in advance of the Black Eagle. 

Buack TarraRian.-—This variety is a very general favorite, 
and is probably more often ordered than any other one variety. 
The fruit is of the largest size, exceedingly showy, with a bright 
glossy skin of the darkest purple, heart-shaped in form, yet so 
regularly irregular in outline that it seems to have been hammered 
out at the blacksmith’s forge. It is believed to have been intro- 
duced into England from Russia about the year 1796, whence it 
has been widely disseminated. The tree is a remarkably rapid 
and vigorous grower, erect in habit and very abundant bearer. 
The fruit is very large, with a thick purple flesh, almost firm, 
juicy, rich and excellent; stone quite small in proportion to the 
size of the fruit. Ripe about the first of July. Proves to be 
valuable in Nova Scotia. 


88 THE CHERRY. 


Con’s Transparent.—This is an excellent variety of the 
tender fleshed, light colored sorts. The tree is healthy and vig- 
orous, and a good bearer. The fruit is of medium size, round, 
pale amber color in the shade, and overspread with pale red in 
the sun with a peculiarly mottled appearance; the flesh is very 
tender, melting, juicy, with a sweet but very agreeable flavor; 
quality “best.” It ripens about the last of June. 

Downer’s Latz.—Was raised by Mr. Samuel Downer, near 
Boston, and is a valuable late variety, ripening about the first of 
August. The tree is vigorous, erect and exceedingly prolific. 
Fruit medium in size, bright red, borne in clusters; flesh tender, 
juicy, and sweet. Thrives well in Nova Scotia. 

Harty Pourrre Guiens.—The earliest good variety we have, 
ripening about the 15th of June. The tree is healthy, vigorous, 
somewhat irregular in habit of growth, a constant and abundant 
bearer. The fruit is a little below medium size, of a purple color 
when fully ripe, flesh tender and juicy, sweet and rich; quality 
“very good.” Much esteemed in Nova Scotia. 

Etron.—There seems to be more of hardihood in this variety 
than is usual in this class of cherries, so that it will endure a 
greater degree of cold and flourish and bear fruit where many of 
its fellows perish. Those who desire to grow some of the sweeter 
cherries may succeed with this variety when the other kinds fail. 
The fruit is of large size, lengthened heart-shaped, yellow, with a 
ruddy, mottled cheek; flesh a little firm, juicy, rich, and of excel- 
lent flavor; quality “very good” to “best.” It is ripe early in July. 

Governor Woop.—Ripening soon after the Early Purple 
Guigne, this excellent cherry is the connecting link between the 
earliest sorts and the general crop. It was raised by Professor 
Kirtland, of Cleveland, Ohio. The tree grows well and is very 
productive. The fruit is above medium size, very light yellow, 
with a red cheek handsomely marbled. The flesh is tender, 
sweet, juicy, and of an exceedingly pleasant flavor. 

‘Naporzon Bicarreav.—In point of beauty and attractive, 
showy appearance, there is none to excel this magnificent variety, 


THE CHERRY. 89 


The fruit is of the very largest size; color, a beautiful amber yel- 
low, handsomely spotted with deep red, and the glowing crimson 
cheek very finely marbled; the flesh is very firm, juicy and of 
excellent flavor. Ripens about. the middle of July. The tree is 
an erect, vigorous grower, bearing good, regular crops. In our 
own experience with this variety, we have found it very liable to 
rot on the tree before it became perfectly ripe; in truth, all of 
this class of cherries seem to have this tendency in greater or less 
degree, and more if wet and warm weather prevail at the time of 
vipening than when the weather is cool and dry. 

Rockport Bigarreav.—Another of Dr. Kirtland’s cherries, 
of great beauty and excellence. The tree is remarkably healthy 
and vigorous, and forms a beautiful pyramidal head, and at the 
same time is an excellent cropper. The fruit is of large size, in 
color a beautiful bright red shading to pale amber; the flesh is 
nearly firm, sweet, juicy, of a rich and pleasant flavor. It ripens 
about the middle of June. 

Trapescant’s Brack Heart.—Elkhorn.—This is one of the 
first. varieties introduced into Western Canada, and has there 
received a great many names. Of these the most common are 
Black Ox Heart, Ox Heart, and Black Heart. It is a vigorous, 
healthy tree, of erect habit, forming a tall pyramid, and an abun- 
dant bearer. The fruit is large, heart-shaped, having the same 
irregular surface as the Black Tartarian; color, a very deep pur- 
ple, changing when fully ripe to a deep glossy black, flesh very 
firm and solid, purple, not very juicy, sweet and high flavored. 
Ripe late in July. 

DUKES AND MORELLOS. 

The varieties comprised under this head are more hardy than 
the Heart and Bigarreau cherries, consequently they endure 
severe cold much better,.and may be successfully grown where 
the others fail. They are more acid also, some of the varieties 
abundantly so, and on that account are better adapted for cook- 
ing and canning than the sweeter sorts. We have selected half 
a dozen varieties which will be found to comprise all, and perhaps 
nore than all, that it is desirable to plant. 


90 THE CHERRY. 


Bette pe Cuoisy.—We have given this variety a place, be- 
cause in point of flavor it is one of the best if not the best of this 
section; butit is such a very shy bearer in all our experience and 
observation, that we cannot advise any one to plantit. Yet when 
the fruit can be had there is no cherry more delicious; it is of 
medium size, bright red in the sun, pale amber in the shade ; 
flesh very tender, melting, juicy, and of a most delicate and 
agreeable flavor. It ripens about the first of July. 

Bettz Maanirique.—tThe chief excellence of this variety is 
its lateness of ripening, it being in use about the middle of 
August. The fruit is of good size, bright red, with a juicy, ten- 
der flesh, of a sprightly, sub-acid flavor. It is desirable for cook- 
ing, and when allowed to remain on the tree until very ripe, is 
a pretty good dessert fruit. The tree is moderately vigorous in 

‘growth and an abundant bearer. We have found this variety to 
be exceedingly liable to the attacks of the curculio in our grounds, 
we think the most so of all the cherries. 

Kentiso.—Early Richmond.—Common Red.—Pie Cherry. 
—Montmorency—An old European variety introduced by the 
early settlers, and coming so nearly true from seed and yet some- 
times varying so much that from all these shades of variation 
there has arisen considerable confusion. We notice that Mr. 
Downing, in his exhaustive work on the fruits and fruit trees of 
America, makes a second kind, which he calls the Late Kentish, 
but we have been unable to find any really permanent and dis- 
tinguishing differences, so imperceptibly do these all glide into 
one another. Those that seem to ripen earliest will hang on the 
tree and continue as long as the latest, while in general appear- 
ance, size, color, flavor, productiveness and hardihood they seem 
to be substantially thesame. Undoubtedly, taking all things into 
consideration, it is the most valuable of all the cherries that can 
be grown in the Dominion of Canada. In the first place, it is the 
most hardy variety, capable of enduring a very severe degree of 
cold, and of accommodating itself to any variety of soil, from the 
stiffest clay to the lightest sand. Then it is a very constant and 


THE CHERRY. 91 


exceedingly abundant cropper, coming early into bearing and 
continuing to extremest old age. - When about half ripe, at 
which time the fruit is of a bright red, it may be used for pies, 
tarts and all cooking purposes, and when fully ripe, when it has 
become of a dark mahogany color, it is a very agreeable dessert 
fruit; and if there be any cherry that can be profitably planted 
for market, this is the cherry that will yield the most sure re- 
turns. The tree is a moderately vigorous grower, never becom- 
ing very large, and forming a rounded, spreading head. The 
fruit is of medium size, with a juicy, melting flesh, of a rich, 
sprightly, acid flavor, ripening from the middle of June in the 
end of July. 

Maypure.—Were this variety as hardy as the one last de- 
seribed it would stand at- the head of the list, but although a 
very hardy sort, it is just a little less hardy than the Kentish. 
Owing to this want of hardihood the tree sometimes fails where 
the Kentish stands, and the crop of fruit is oftener injured or 
destroyed even where the tree survives. Yet every one should 
give this variety a trial where there is hope that any cherry will 
thrive, and if it succeeds he will ever after be gratified that he 
has made the trial. It is supposed that the Mayduke originated 
in France, whence it has been very widely diffused, and though 
it has been a long time in cultivation, none of the newer sorts 
have been found to be in all respects its equal. The tree is a 
vigorous, upright grower, and when young assumes a form much 
like that of a young Lombardy Poplar. It is a regular and 
abundant bearer. The fruit is of full medium size, borne in 
clusters, and when fully ripe a dark dull red. The flesh is ten- 
der, juicy, melting, and of excellent flavor. Ripe the latter part 
of June. Much esteemed’ by the fruit growers of Nova Scotia. 

Puumstone Moretto.—This variety is very hardy, and of 
very slow growth ; making, when worked on the Mahaleb Cherry 
stock, a nice pyramidal bush. Its dwarf habit has prevented 
this variety from being very generally planted, but its apparent 
hardihood makes it worthy of more extended trial. We have 


92 THE NECTARINE. , 


not found the tree to be as productive as the Mayduke, but it is 
usually mentioned as being 2 productive variety. The fruit is 
above medium size, dark red, with a tender and juicy flesh, of a 
sprightly, rich and pleasant flavor. Ii ripens early in August. 

Reine Hortense.—An excellent variety, which will pro- 
bably prove to be as hardy as the Mayduke. It ripens much 
later, and being much sweeter, it will be more generally preferred 
for the dessert. After a trial of fifteen years we have only one 
fault to find with it, and that is, that in some seasons too much 
of the fruit drops off soon after it has set. We have attributed 
this dropping of the fruit to chilly north-easterly storms occur- 
Ting at that particular stage in the growth of the fruit. With 
this exception the tree is an abundant bearer, moderately vigor- 
ous in growth, perfectly healthy, and forming a handsome 
pyramid. The fruit is large, of a deep red color, somewhat 
mottled ; the flesh tender and juicy, almost sweet, and of an 
exceedingly agreeable flavor. Ripe the latter part of July. 

Srarr’s Prouiric—The worthy Secretary of the Fruit 
Growers’ Association of Nova Scotia, to whom we are indebted 
for many favors, has kindly furnished us with the description of 
this variety, which is a native of Nova Scotia, and so much 
esteemed where it is known that we believe it to be worthy of 
wider dissemination. 

It originated on the farm belonging to Mr. Starr’s father, 
Starr's Point, from seed of the Waterloo. 

The original tree is now about twenty-five years old, large, 
spreading and healthy, a constant and most prodigious bearer. The 
fruit is of medium size, roundish heart-shaped ; color, bright red ; 
flesh tender, juicy, rich, brisk sub-acid. Ripe about the first 
week of July. 


THE NECTARINE. 


This is only a Peach with a smooth skin, and the tree requires 
the same soil, cultivation, pruning, and manures as the Peach, 
and is propagated in the same manner, by budding on peach or 
plum stocks. 


THE PEACH. 93 


The fruit is more liable to the attacks of the curculio than 
the Peach, and on this account is even more difficult to secure 
than a crop of Peaches. The following varieties are the most 
worthy of attention by cultivators in Canada. 

Downton.—The fruit is of large size, greenish white, with a 
deep red cheek; the flesh also has a pale green cast, but is rich, 
melting and high flavored. Ripens the very last of August. 

Earty Newineron.—A cling-stone variety, with large bright 
red fruit, very handsomely marbled and mottled with dark red, 
and covered with a thin bloom. The flesh is greenish white, 
except that next to the stone it changes to pale red; juicy, rich, 
and of excellent flavor. Ripe early in September. 

Exrucs.—Is esteemed one of the very best. Fruit is of 
medium size, yellowish green with a red cheek; flesh greenish 
white, very juicy, rich and high flavored. Sipe in the first half 
of September. 

Stanwick.—For orchard house culture, under glass, this 
variety bears a high reputation. The fruit is of medium size, 
tender, juicy, and of superior quality. 

Viotet Hative.—arly Violet.—One of the most esteemed ; 
handsome, and of delicious flavor. The fruit is of medium size, 
greenish yellow with a purple cheek, juicy and rich. Ripe lat- 
ter part of August. 


THE PEACH. 


This delicious fruit can be grown in the open ground only in 
the warmer parts of the Province of Ontario, and then only in 
warm and dry gravelly or sandy soils, and in sheltered aspects 
not subject to late spring frosts. Trained against the wall, it 
does well in Nova Scotia, and othersections where the fruit buds 
are not killed by the winter's cold. In the earlier history of the 
country the Peach crop was more abundant and certain than it 
has been for the past twenty years. The clearing up of the 
country, with its consequent effect upon the humidity and elec- 

8 


94. THE PEACH. 


tricity of the atmosphere, and the exposure of all things to the 
unbroken sweep of the winds, have wrought a change in the 
climate of the country not altogether favorable either to animal 
or vegetable life. When we, as agriculturists, better understand 
the influence of frequent belts of timber, composed of evergreen 
and deciduous trees, upon. the life and health of ourselves, of our 
stock, of our crops and our orchards, they will then be esteemed 
as necessary and valued as highly as any part of the farm, and 
our crops of fruit will be less frequently injured or destroyed by 
sudden changes of temperature and predatory tribes of insects. 

The soil must be warm, dry and porous, else the Peach will 
not thrive. In a stiff retentive clay the tree will not grow, nor 
in any cold, damp soil. The tops and sides of gentle slopes are 
usually more favorable than the bottoms of ravines and valleys. 
An abundance of lime in the soil is conducive to the health of 
the tree, and a regular dressing of wood ashes has always been 
found to be highly beneficial. 

Peach trees may be planted twelve feet apart each way, and 
should be annually pruned back or shortened in. By this is 
usually meant the cutting off, every spring, of about one-third 
of the length of the previous summer’s growth, and the thinning 
out of such twigs as may have become useless, or overcrowded. 
By this method of pruning, the trees will be kept in a neat, com- 
pact form, less exposed to injury from the winds, the branches 
less liable to be broken by any cause, and the tree more healthy 
and fruitful. If, however, instead of cutting away in spring one- 
third of the previous summer's growth, the growing shoots were 
checked by pinching the ends in summer, the wood would be bet- 
ter ripened, the tree kept more easily in shape, and the spring 
pruning reduced to a mere occasional thinning of superfluous 
shoots. We are fully persuaded that, in our Canadian climate, 
the more we control the form of our trees by summer pinching 
and the less of knife pruning we can get on with, not only of 
the Peach but of all our fruit trees, the more healthy and longer: 
lived our trees will be. 


THE PEACH. 95 


Peach trees will not bear heavy manuring with stimulating 
manures; they make the trees grow too thriftily, with soft, spongy 
wood. The proper manures are wood ashes, lime, bone dust, and 
perfectly decayed barn-yard manure from some old heap or hot- 
bed, the latter to be used sparingly. The ground should be 
kept clean and neverseeded down. They are propagated by bud- 
ding on both Peach and Plum stocks. 

A few of the best varieties, those that have been found best 
suited to this climate, are described below. If the peach growers 
of Western Ontario would turn their attention to the production 
of new varieties from seed, there is no doubt a generation of 
hardier sorts might be obtained, which would be better adapted 
to the country than’ most of those now in cultivation. Yet it 
must not be expected that the geographical distribution of this 
tree can be greatly enlarged within the Dominion; the warm 
soils near the great lakes, lying between lakes Erie and Ontario, 
along the north shore of Ontario and the south shore of lake 
Huron, where the air is tempered by those large bodies of 
water, will ever remain the most favorable to the production of 
the Apricot, Nectarine, and Peach. 

The experiments already made by Mr. Cowherd, of Newport, 
Brant County, Ont., give promise of very favorable results. 

Crawrorp’s Harty.—No variety of peach is as popular as 
this, and more trees are planted of it than of all the other sorts 
put together. It is a truly splendid peach, of large size, great 
beauty of appearance, and superior quality. The tree is healthy, 
vigorous and productive, and the fruit is large, yellow, with a 
very handsome red cheek ; the flesh deep yellow, rich, sweet and 
high flavored. It ripens about the middle of September, and is 
much sought after in all our markets. 

Crawrorp’s Late.—This variety is very much like the pre- 
ceding in appearance and quality, but ripening about a fortnight 
later. It also is a splendid market variety, and greatly in de- 
mand for the purpose of canning, for which there-is none better. 
The fruit is very large, yellow with a dark red cheek ; flesh 
yellow, juicy, with a rich vinous flavor. 


96 THE PEACH. 


Earty Yorx.—tThe best early peach, ripening in the latter 
part of August. The Early Anne is ripe about a fortnight earlier, 
but it is not much larger than a nutmeg, and the tree such a 
miserable grower that we cannot recommend it. The Early 
York, however, is a vigorous, healthy tree, and bears abundantly. 
The fruit is of medium size, with a dark red cheek, flesh green- 
ish white, very juicy, with a rich, sprightly flavor. 

GrorcE THE Fourta.—tThe healthy character of the tree and 
the high quality of the fruit of this variety have made it a great 
favorite. The fruit is large, white minutely dotted with red in 
the shade, the sunny side is dark red, often most beautifully 
mottled and marbled ; the flesh is white, very juicy, and exceed- 
ingly rich and luscious. Ripe early in September. 

Hatz’s Earty.—Comparatively a new variety, valuable on 
account of its productiveness and early ripening. It has been 
largely planted in some sections for market purposes, but its 
value as a market variety is somewhat doubtful. The fruit is of 
medium size, greenish white in the shade, but mostly covered 
with red; flesh white, juicy, sweet and of good flavor. Ripe a 
little before the Early York. 

Oxup Mixon Freestone.—An old standard variety that has 
borne the test of many years and is highly esteemed. The tree is 
healthy and vigorous, and bears good crops. The fruit is large, , 
yellowish white marbled with red ; flesh white, juicy, rich, witha 
very pleasant vinous flavor. Ripe middle of September. 

Rep Cueex Menocoton.—Another very popular, well-known 
and long tried sort, which seems to thrive everywhere that the 
peach can be grown. It is the parent of the Early and Late 
Crawford, which have superseded it as market sorts. The fruit 
is large, yellow with a dark red cheek ; flesh yellow, juicy, with 
a very agreeable rich, vinous flavor. Ripe about the middle of 
September. 

Taytor.—Originated by James Taylor, Esq., of St. Catha- 
rines, an enthusiastic amateur fruit cultivator. The tree is vigor- 
ous, and seems to be more than usually hardy and healthy. The 


THE PEAR, 97 


fruit is of large size, yellow with ared cheek ; flesh yellow, juicy, 
with a fine aromatic flavor. Ripens just afler the Early Craw- 
ford. 

Van Buren’s Gotpen Dwarr.—We have not fruited this 
variety, but believe it to be well adapted to pot culture on 
account of its dwarf habit of growth. The fruit is said to be of 
medium size, of a golden yellow color with a red cheek; flesh 
yellow, firm, juicy and of good quality. It is a clingstone, a 
very undesirable character in the peach. 


THE PEAR. 


A. strong clay loam, resting on a dry subsoil, is the very best 
soil for the peartree. In such a soil it will be healthy and long- 
lived, and the fruit will be of the highest flavor. However, it 
will thrive in sandy and gravelly soils so long as they are dry; but 
in cold, wet soils the trees soon become diseased and worthless. 

The climate in some parts of the Dominion is too severe for 
the successful culture of this fruit. In the Province of Ontario 
the Ottawa and St. Lawrence districts have been found too cold 
for most of the varieties in general cultivation, and in the Pro- 
vinee of Quebec the pear can be successfully raised only in 
favored localities. 

There is a disease, popularly known as the fire-blight, which 
attacks the pear tree, killing sometimes only the smaller shoots, 
sometimes entire branches, and not unfrequently the tree itself. 
Some varieties are very liable to this disease, as the Glout Mor- 
ceau, and none are wholly exempt. The cause of it is yet un- 
known, nor has any certain remedy, or even preventive, been 
discovered. It usually makes its appearance in midsummer, 
blackening the bark and withering the leaves of the affected 
branches, giving them the appearance of having been scorched 
with fire. Prompt amputation of all the affected parts is be- 
lieved to arrest the progress of the disease, and seems sometimes 
to save the tree. Those trees which are growing very luxuriantly 


98 THE PEAR. 


in very rich alluvial soil, or that have been very highly manured 
with’ barnyard manure, seem to be the most subject to these 
attacks. 

_ The best manures for the pear tree are wood ashes, lime and 
ground bones. These may be spread upon the surface of the 
ground, where they will beeome gradually incorporated with the 
soil. In our climate, great injury is often done by stimulating 
the pear trees to excessive growth. A short, well-ripened annual 
growth is all that should be desired. 

This tree can be propagated both by grafting and budding. 
When worked upon pear seedlings, the trees naturally grow to a 
large size, and attain the height usual in pear trees. These are 
known as standard pear trees. It is difficult to transplant large 
standard pear trees with success, from the fact that the roots are 
poorly supplied with fibres, when grown in the manner in which 
they are raised in the nurseries in America. In England, where 
the importance of having an abundance of fibrous roots is under- 
stood and appreciated, nurserymen transplant their standard trees 
frequently, not only of the pear, but of the apple and other 
fruits, and also of ornamental trees, charging for such transplanted 
trees according to the number of times they have been trans- 
planted. By each successive transplanting a larger number of 
fibrous roots are formed, so that after two or three removals, the 
roots, instead of looking like a two or three-pronged carrot, are a 
mass of fibres, resembling a fine, bushy head of hair. When 
planters in Canada are willing to pay the difference in the cost 
of growing such fibrous-rooted trees, they will find the nursery- 
men ready to supply them; but while the present practice pre- 
vails of buying always where they can be had cheapest, without 
regard to quality, nurserymen are forced to grow their trees with 
the least possible labor, and the trees are transplanted as seldom 
as possible. 

Standard pear trees, as usually grown, do not require much 
pruning if they are attended to every year, and those branches 
removed which cross each other, or that are forming a distorted 


THE PEAR. 98 


growth. Yet they are much better if trained as pyramids, branch- 
ing near the ground and rising gradually in a symmetrical form. 
Grown in this way they are much better able to endure the cli- 
mate of our colder sections, while they come into bearing much 
sooner than those with long trunks. The method of pruning to 
form such trees is the same as that which is fully described under 
the directions given for pruning dwarf pear trees. When grown 
in the pyramidal form here recommended, the trees can be planted 
nearer together, and thus they shelter each other from the high 
winds. 

Dwarf Pear trees are formed by budding upon low-growing 
varieties of Quince, which have the effect to lessen the size of 
the tree. Some varieties of Pear will not unite well with the 
quince stock, and the only way of obtaining dwarf trees of such 
varieties is by budding the Quince stock with some variety that 
will unite firmly with it, such, for instance, as the Beurre d’Amalis, 
and then budding the refractory variety into that. This is 
called double working. Dwarf Pear trees attain to considerable 
size in favorable soils, but not to the height common in standard 
Pear trees, and usually come into bearing much earlier, and in 
some varieties the fruit is finer and higher flavored. These 
advantages, coupled with the fact that the trees can be planted 
closer together, and a greater number of varieties fruited on a 
smaller space, constitute their chief recommendations. The best 
distance for Dwarf Pear trees is twelve feet apart each way, 
while standard trees require twenty feet. 

In planting Dwarf Pear trees, it is important that all the 
quince stock should be set below the surface of the ground. If 
the bud has been inserted high up on the stock, such planting 
would necessitate the placing of the lower portion of the roots in 
the cold subsoil, where they would not only remain imert, 
but become diseased, and cause the tree to become sickly 
and die. To prevent this, a few inches of the lower part 
of the quince root with the accompanying rootlets should 
be removed with a fine saw, so that when planted the whole 


100 THE PEAR. 


of the quince stock shall be buried in the soil, and yet none 
so deeply down as to be below the stimulating effect of the 
warmth of the sun. Fortunately, the quince, when buried in 
warm soil, at once proceeds to throw out roots, so that in a few 
weeks new roots will be formed quite to the surface of the ground, 
fully supplying the place of all that have been removed. 

The proper form of a dwarf pear tree, and the best form for 
a standard tree is the pyramidal. To produce this form it will 
be necessary to begin to 
prune the tree while it is 
quite young. Such is the 
desire on the part of pur- 
chasers to get large trees, 
that nurserymen get them 
up as fast as possible. 
Fig. 47 represents a dwarf 
pear tree at one year 
old from the bud, and 
the cross line, A, the 
place where nurserymen 
usually head it back in 
order that it may look as 
a” ©6large as possible, whereas 

Fig. 47. it should have been cut Fig. 48. 

back at B. A tree that has been properly headed back when 
one year old, will, when its second season’s growth is completed, 
have the appearance shown in Figure 48. The branches 
should now be shortened in such a way as to givea pyramidal 
shapeto the tree, by cutting back the lower shoots to about 
eight inches from the body of the tree ; those next above should 
be shortened about two inches more, and the next shortened yet 
a little more, until those nearest, the leader are cut back to three or 
four buds from the base. The leader should be cut off at about 
half its length, so that another series of branches may be thrown 
out to continue the pyramid. At the end of the third season’s 


THE PEAR. 101 


growth the tree will have the appearance shown in Fig. 49. It 
should have been stated that if the branches on the tree at the 
end of the second seagon’s growth are too numerous to admit of 
all remaining, which will very pro- 
bably be the case, enough of them 
must be cut ontirely away to give 
plenty of room for the free circula- 
tion of air and light, upon which the 
full develop- 
ment of leaves 
and fruit so 
entirely de- 
pends. The 
like process of 
cutting back 
the growth of . 
the previous 
summer must 
be again re- 
peated, as in- 
dicated by the 
cross lines, 
keeping in 
mind that the 
_ object for 
= which you 
prune is to Fig. 50. 

bring the tree into a conical form. At the end of the fourth 
season the tree will have the form shown in Fig. 50, and the 
dotted line, A. B., shows where the branches will require to be 
shortened at the spring pruning. If summer pinching of the 
shoots is practised, very little spring pruning will be required. 
Summer pinching consists in ‘nipping off the point of the 
growing shoot, usually with the thumb and finger, or it may 
be done with the knife. The effect of this is, of course, to- 


102 THE PEAR. 


check the extension of the shoot, and also to send the sap to 
the buds below. If these buds do not, break during the grow- 
ing season, they will be considerably strengthened and in- 
creased in size, and either form fruit buds or send out strong 
shoots the next season. If the tree be growing rapidly, one or 
more of the buds near the end of the shoot will probably break 
and send out shoots the same season. Care must be taken not 
to perform the pinching so late in summer as to induce the forma- 
tion of these shoots at a time when they can not ripen their 
growth before winter. 

If it be desirable to check the growth of any branch that is 
-absorbing too much of the strength of the tree and becoming too 
large in proportion to the others, it can be easily done by pinch- 
ing the end in summer and stripping off a part of the leaves 
from that branch. If, on the contrary, you wish to induce a 
branch to grow more vigorously, shorten it back severely in the 
spring, and in summer pinch in the other branches and strip off 
some of their leaves, while you allow the shoots thrown out from 
the branch that was cut back to grow undisturbed. 

In these suggestions mention has been made only of pruning 
in the spring, for the reason that experience has taught us that it 
is important that the wounds should heal over quickly. On this 
account the pear should not be pruned when the sap is not in 
active circulation, and should by no means be pruned in the fall. 
Besides this, it is very desirable to avoid the making of large 
wounds, as must be done in removing or cutting off large 
branches, and therefore pruning should be done while the tree is 
young, and systematically attended to every year. By doing this 
it will never become necessary to cut off large limbs, except in 
case of accidental injury. 

Soil and exposure have a great influence on the quality 
of pears, an influence that has not yet been adequately 
accounted for or fully understood. This variation in quality 
may often be seen in the fruit of trees of the same variety, 
growing in soils apparently alike and but a mile or two 


THE PEAR. 103 


apart. As a rule, the fruit from young trees is not as fine 
in quality as that from the same trees at a more advanced age, 
and that produced by trees growing in clayey soils with a dry 
bottom, not fertilized with highly stimulating manures, is of bet- 
ter quality than that borne by trees in a light sandy soil, or in a 
damp soil, or in arich alluvial soil, or that are supplied too 
liberally with partially decomposed barn-yard manure. 

Dwarf Pear trees are very apt to bear too much fruit, and it 
will therefore be necessary to examine them just after the fruit 
is set, and thin out the pears. No more fruit should be allowed 
to remain than the tree can bring to perfection of size and quality. 
The fruit on an over-loaded tree is sure to be small in size and 
poor in quality, while the tree is often so severely over-tasked in 
the effort to grow and ripen its unequal burden, that it becomes 
stunted, sickly, and frequently perishes. Just how much fruit 
to leave and how much to take can only be learned by actual 
practice. The size, vigor and habits of the tree, must be all duly 
considered, and the condition of the soil in which it is growing ; 
the tendency in all cases is to leave too much fruit, and it is 
always advisable to go over the trees a second and a third time, 
removing those which give least promise of coming to a full and 
well-developed maturity. 

The fruit of almost all varieties of Pear is of much finer flavor 
if gathered a few days before it is fully ripe, and allowed to 
mature in the house. The best time for taking the fruit from 
the trees is usually indicated by a slight change in the color of 
the pears, and by the stalk parting readily from the tree when 
the fruit is gently lifted. These remarks apply to the summer 
and early autumn varieties. After the fruit has been gathered, 
it should be placed in a box or keg and stored in a cool room, 
but not in the cellar, to ripen. If there be but a few specimens 
of any kind, these will ripen best if put into a paper bag, or 
wrapped securely in paper and placed together in a box. If 
spread out on shelves, or placed in drawers capable of holding a 
much larger quantity, they lose much of their flavor, and 


104 THE PEAR. 


usually shrivel. But if kept in a body together, where there is 
sufficient quantity, or kept from too rapid evaporation by being 
wrapped in paper, their flavor and plumpness are fully preserved, 
and in due time the fruit will acquire its full color and perfect 
maturity, with more juiciness and richness of flavor than if 
allowed to ripen wholly on the tree. Many sorts, if allowed to 
remain too long on the tree, rot at the core, while others become 
dry, mealy and flavorless. By gathering and ripening them in 
the manner above described, these evils are lessened or wholly 
obviated, and fruit that would be otherwise worthless becomes 
not only good, but delicious. 

Late autumn and winter Pears do not require such treatment, 
but on the contrary are allowed to remain on the trees as long 
as the season will admit. They should he gathered carefully 
without bruising, packed in barrels or boxes, and kept in a cool, 
dry cellar until they begin to show signs of ripening, when they 
should be taken to a room where the temperature is a little 
warmer, to complete their maturity. 

Very few of the winter Pears which come to maturity after 
the holidays are worth growing in our climate. The best Pears 
are those that ripen not later than the middle of January ; of 
those ripening after that time, none in our estimation are-at all 
comparable in flavor to the Pomme Grise d’Or Apple. 

The number of varieties of Pear now in cultivation is enor- 
mous, yet out of them all but avery few can be named that have 
proved themselves, after some years of trial, to be possessed of 
the qualifications which commend them to the attention of Ca- 
nadian planters. Many varieties, which in Europe enjoy a high 
reputation, do not maintain their high qualities when transplanted 
to our soil and climate. Some varieties again are very fickle, 
exhibiting a high degree of excellence in one season, but almost 
tasteless the next. In selecting the varieties which are here 
described, the aim has been to mention only those which are 
really worthy of attention, and which combine in as great a 
degree as possible, hardihood and healthfulness of tree, with the 
highest quality of fruit. 


THE PEAR. 105 


The growing of Pears of the first quality for market, in such 
a way as to make it profitable, is attended with more difficulty 
than the profitable production of Apples, and will demand a 
higher order of horticultural talent. Yet such is the demand for 
finely grown Pears, that the early autumn varieties sell readily 
in our larger cities for from eight to fifteen dollars per barrel, 
while the later sorts, which come in after the great flood of 
autumn fruit has passed, command from twenty to thirty dollars 
per barrel. But these prices are obtained only for well grown 
fruit, fruit that can be uniformly grown only by a careful and 
judicious cultivator, whose trees are never suffered to weaken 
themselves with a superabundant crop, never over-fed with highly 
nitrogenous fertilizers, and never starved upon a parsimonious 
diet. No doubt the skilful cultivator of Pears for market will 
be amply remunerated, but let the impatient and unrefiecting 
beware. 

Awanas D’Ers.—Summer Pine Apple.—This old pear from 
Holland is growing in favor with cultivators in Ontario on ac- 
count of the healthy and vigorous character of the tree and the 
good quality of the fruit. In our climate itis by no means a 
summer pear, as its name would seem to indicate, but ripens the 
last of September, or more generally during the first ten days of 
October. 

The fruit is above medium size, sometimes large, pear-shaped, 
color pale yellow; fiesh is melting, fine-grained, buttery, sweet 
and high-flavored, quality “very good.” 

Bartiert.— Williams Bonchretien.—No pear has been more 
widely disseminated or is more universally esteemed throughout 
the Dominion than this variety, which is now about a century 
old. It originated in Berkshire, England, and was propagated 
by a Mr. Williams, of London, from which circumstance it received 
the name of Williams’ Bonchretien. On its first introduction to 
America the name was lost, but a Mr. Bartlett, residing near 
Boston, disseminated it, and so it came to be known as the Bart- 
lett Pear, by which latter name it is now better known all over 


106 THE PEAR, 


this continent than by the original name by which it is known 
in England. 

The tree is vigorous and upright, tolerably hardy, though 
not quite hardy enough to thrive well in the St, Lawrence and 

‘ Ottawa districts of Ontario and other places of a like climate. 
In favorable climates it bears early and very abundantly. The 
fruit is of large size, yellow, with a slight blush on some speci- 
mens; flesh buttery, fine-grained, juicy, sweet, with a peculiar 
musky vinous flavor. Ripens about the middle of September. 
Well grown samples sell from seven to ten dollars per barrel in 
the city markets. 

Bevrre Bosc.—Unfortunately this splendid variety is not 
sufficiently hardy to thrive well in those parts where the Heart 
and Bigarreau Cherries do not succeed. But in those places 
where it can be grown it has always maintained its reputation as 
a fruit of the “best” quality. The tree is a vigorous, somewhat 
irregular grower, producing its fruit not in clusters, as is usual 
with the pear, but singly, thus distributing the fruit very evenly 
over the tree, and giving to each specimen sufficient space to 
attain its full size without the necessity of thinning the fruit. 

The fruit is large, tapering very gradually to the stalk, color 
yellowish cinnamon russet, sometimes with a ruddy glow on the 
exposed side; flesh very buttery, rich and delicious, quality 
“best.” Ripe in October. This fruit always commands the 
highest market price. 

Beurre Cuarrezau.—Such are the vigor and healthy ap- 
pearance of this tree, combined with early bearing and great pro- 
ductiveness, and such the beauty and attractiveness of the fruit, 
possessing also an excellent flavor, that it will doubtless prove to 
be a valuable and profitable variety. It is probably, on the 
whole, as hardy as the Bartlett, and nearly as productive. 

The fruit is large, pear-shaped, color yellow shaded with 
crimson; flesh yellowish, juicy, buttery, with a pleasant vinous 
flavor; quality almost “very good.” Ripe in November and 
December. Those who find the Bartlett to succeed well, may 


THE PEAR. 107 


give this variety a trial with every expectation of success. It 
sells at present in New York city for twenty-five dollars per 
barrel. 

Bevurre v’Ansov.—In order more fully to test the value of 
this variety for Canadian planting, and to call public attention 
to its many valuable qualities, the Fruit Growers’ Association of 
Ontario distributed a tree of it gratuitously to each of its mem- 
bers in the spring of 1871. The tree is very vigorous, healthy 
and productive; fruit large, obtusely pyriform ; color greenish, 
with a brown cheek; flesh juicy, melting, with a pleasant, 
sprightly, vinous flavor ; quality “very good.” Ripe in Novem- 
ber. The fruit sells in the Boston market for twenty-five to 
thirty-five dollars per barrel. 

Beurre Dret.—This has been a popular late autumn and 
early winter sort, and in warm, well-drained soils is usually very 
good, but in cold and damp soils is more frequently very poor. 
In our climate it seems to be very variable in quality, judging 
from the samples that have been exhibited at meetings of fruit 
growers, and likely to be superseded in Canadian planting by the 
two last described sorts. The tree is very vigorous and a good 
bearer, and as hardy as the Bartlett. The fruit is large, yellow 
when ripe, often very considerably marbled with russet; flesh 
coarse grained, gritty at the core, but rich and sugary in perfect 
specimens. The quality of the fruit is usually better from trees 
worked on the quince stock, than from those on the pear. Ripe 
late in November. 

Bevurre Girrarp.—An excellent summer variety, ripening 
about the middle of August, of medium size, yellowish, with 
marbling of red on the exposed side; flesh melting, juicy, of a 
very pleasant vinous flavor, and richly perfumed ; quality “very 
good.” Like all early summer Pears, it does not last long, and 
is the better of being gathered early. The tree is healthy, but a 
slender grower, and fully as hardy as the Bartlett. 

Bevrre Superrin.—Those who have grown the old Brown 
Beurre and enjoyed its high vinous flavor, and have withal been 


108 THE PEAR. 


disappointed to find it so variable and so subject to cracking, will 
be much gratified to find the flavor of their old favorite revived 
in this more recent and, so far as we are now able to judge, 
better and more reliable variety. The tree is very healthy and 
promises to take rank among the more hardy sorts, moderately 
vigorous in habit of growth, bearing tolerably well when it has 
arrived at maturity, but not beginning to bear while young. 
The fruit is medium in size, roundish pear-shaped, yellow, shaded 
with red on the sunny side; flesh buttery, melting, very juicy, 
with rich sub-acid flavor. Ripe in October. 

BRaNDYWINE.— With the exception that the fruit of this sort 
soon deteriorates after becoming ripe, we have been much pleased 
with this variety. The tree is sufficiently vigorous, upright in 
habit and an excellent bearer, and probably as hardy as most of 
our good varieties. The fruit is barely medium in size, yellowish 
green, with a ruddy brown cheek ; flesh melting, sugary, juicy, 
with a very agreeable aromatic flavor; quality “‘ very good.” 
Ripe in the latter part of August. 

Burrum.—tThis variety has been extensively tried in Canada, 
and the tree has been found to be tolerably hardy; but there is 
one very serious objection to it, and that is the very variable 
quality of the fruit. Sometimes it is very good, but oftener it 
is comparatively flavorless. In size it varies from medium to 
small; color russeted yellow, with a dark brownish red cheek ; 
flesh buttery, not very juicy, sometimes dry, sweet and of pleasant 
flavor; quality “good,” sometimes “very good.”. Ripens in 
October. The tree is a strong, very upright grower, but there are 
other Pears much more desirable on the whole for our climate. 

Cuapp’s Favorite.—In the hope of calling attention to this 
very promising Pear this description is given, and not because it 
has yet been proven to be valuable in our climate. I¢ is claimed 
for it that it isa cross between the Bartlett and Flemish Beauty. 
The tree bears some resemblance to the latter in its upright 
spreading growth and dark reddish brown shoots, and if it 
should chance to prove as hardy it will certainly be a great ac- 


THE PEAR. 109 


quisition. It is said also to be very productive, distributing its 
fruit evenly over the tree, and thus securing great uniformity in 
size. 

The Pears are large, pale yellow, faintly marbled with red 
in the sun; flesh fine grained, sweet, juicy, buttery and rich; 
quality “very good.” Ripe early in September or a little before 
the Bartlett. 

Dana’s Hovey.—This is also a new variety of great excellence, 
ranking next to the Seckel in flavor, and is probably the very 
highest flavored late December Pear in cultivation. It is small, 
resembling the Seckel in size and form, color pale ‘yellow with 
considerable russet, flesh juicy, sugary, melting, with a rich aro- 
matic flavor; quality “best.” The tree is vigorous and retains 
its foliage late, which is usually an indication of hardihood and 
health. This and the preceding variety are well worthy of the 
careful attention of our fruit raisers. 

Docror Reeper.—A third new sort, which we feel persuaded 
will prove to be hardy over a very large part of the Dominion. 
The tree is vigorous, very healthy, and said to be a good bearer, 
the fruit is of medium size, yellowish russet; flesh fine grained, 
very sugary, buttery and highly perfumed. Ripe in November. 

Doyenne Boussocx.—This tree is very vigorous, productive 
and healthy, and though not specially hardy, thrives well where 
the Bartlett succeeds. The fruit is above medium size, yellow, 
nearly covered with nettings of russet, with a brown-red cheek; 
flesh juicy, buttery, sweet, with a very agreeable aromatic flavor; 
quality “very good.” Ripens early in October, and will probably 
prove valuable for market. 

Doyzwye v’Ets.—This very small Pear, ripening about the 
first of August, is one of our most desirable, very early sorts. 
The tree is moderately vigorous, upright habit, and bears early 
and abundantly. Of its hardihood in our colder sections it is 
not possible to speak definitely as yet. The fruit is small, bright 
yellow, frequently handsomely shaded with red; flesh melting, 
juicy and sweet; quality ‘very good.” 

9 


110 THE PEAR. 


Doyenne pu Comicz.—We have not yet seen the fruit of 
this variety, but entertain such high expectations concerning it 
that we are constrained to mention it here. It is described as a 
large Pear, of a greenish yellow color when gathered, becoming | 
bright yellow when fully ripe, frequently shaded with crimson 
and fawn color in the sun; flesh melting, juicy, sweet, and rich; 
quality “very good” or “best.” It is esteemed by those who are 
excellent judges as one of the best foreign Pears that has been 
introduced within the last twenty years. The tree is a fine 
grower and succeeds well on the quince. Ripe in November. 

Ducuesss p’AncouLEmME.—This fruit is beyond question of 
marvellous size, and some of the specimens that grace our autumn 
exhibitions are perfect leviathans, and usually the larger the fruit 
the better the quality. It is to be hoped that some benevolent 
minded individuals will continue to grow and exhibit these 
monstrous specimens just to keep us from forgetting to what 
size pears can be grown. But beyond this matter of exhibition 
the variety is not suited to the climate of this Dominion as a 
whole. Oftentimes, though blossoming abundantly, the trees do 
not set their fruit, and as a rule the summers are not long enough 
to give much flavor to that which may grow. In warmer latitudes 
it has been profitably grown for market, the large size and 
showy appearance giving it a ready sale at good prices. 

Easter Beurre.—Those who wish to try a long-keeping win- 
ter pear cannot do better than to plant this variety, which will keep 
all winter and be just as good in the spring as it was in the fall. It 
is doubtless the best of its class, better, it is claimed, if grown on 
the quince than if grown on tle pear stock. Itisa fruit of large 
size, yellowish green with a brown cheek ; flesh fine-grained, but- 
tery, juicy, and as usually grown in this climate without much 
flavor. In very warm, dry, calcareous soils, and in favorable 
seasons, especially if in a sheltered position, it may be sometimes 
sweet and rich. The simple truth is that our climate is not 
suited to the production of late-keeping winter pears of high 


THE PEAR, 111 


flavor, and when grown in a climate in which there is sufficient 
heat to impart a high flavor they cease to be late-keeping pears. 

Firmish Beauty.—Belle de Flanders.—Dundurn Castle.— 
There is no pear that seems to be so entirely at home in this 
Dominion as this variety. Hardy, probably the most hardy of 
all, it will grow where any pear tree can endure the cold, and in 
every section it is spoken of with admiration. The tree is re- 
markably healthy in all soils and exposures, and bears abundant 
crops. The fruit is large, yellow, netted and marbled with rus- 
set, usually having a reddish brown cheek on the sunny side ; 
flesh usually fine-grained, sometimes a little gritty at the core, 
juicy, melting, sweet and rich, with a very pleasant and some- 
what aromatic flavor ; quality “very good” to “best.” Beyond 
all question it is the most profitable pear that can be widely 
grown by us, and deserves a place in every collection. The only 
fault it has is that the fruit is so large and heavy that it is liable 
to be prematurely blown off by the high winds of autumn, and 
should, on that account, be planted in a place sheltered from the 
sweep of the winds which prevail at that season. 

Fonpante p’Automne.—Belle Luerative—This excellent 
variety can only be grown in perfection in those localities where 
the pear tree generally flourishes, the tree not being suited to 
severe climates, nor is the fruit full flavored if the tree be planted 
in cold damp soils, or where the summers are very moist and cool. 
But in all the better fruit-growing districts of Ontario and Nova 
Scotia it is grown to a high degree of perfection, save in excep- 
tionally cold and wet seasons, when it is apt to fall below its 
full measure of excellence. The tree is a moderately vigorous 
grower, of erect habit, bearing early and abundantly. The fruit 
is of medium size; color a pale green or greenish yellow ; flesh 
juicy, very sweet, melting and delicious; quality when in per- 
fection “best.” Ripe late in September. Some care needs to 
be taken in thinning out this variety, for it is very prone to 
overload, and an excessive crop injures the quality and flavor of 
all the fruit very considerably. 


112 THE PEAR. 


GoopaLE.— Raised from seed by Mr. E. Goodale, of Maine. 
Enduring so well the severity of the winters there as to be es- 
teemed “ very hardy,” and possessing also many good qualities, 
it is thought worthy of attention by Canadian growers, especially 
by those residing in those sections not altogether favorable to 
pear culture. The tree is a vigorous and thrifty grower, of up- 
right habit, and said to be uniformly productive. We have 
never seen the fruit, but are assured by very competent judges 
that it is of large size, light yellow with a red cheek, with some 
markings of russet; flesh melting, sweet, juicy, a little gritty at 
the core, with a very pleasant musky perfume; coy “very 
good.” Tt ripens in October. 

Howsti.—So far as this variety has been tried in Canada it 
seems to have given very good satisfaction. It is of recent intro- 
duction, and more time must elapse before its adaptability to 
our climate can be fully known. The tree is a free grower, of 
upright habit, and prone to run up without throwing out many 
branches, which defect may be remedied by timely summer 
pinching. It comes early into bearing and yields very large 
crops. The fruit is usually large, yellow with sometimes a red- 
dish cheek ; flesh juicy, melting, with a very agreeable vinous 
flavor ; quality “very good.” Ripens early in October. 

. JAMINETTE.—A very productive, early, winter Pear, of more 
than medium size; very juicy, sweet, and “good ;” in favorable 
seasons, “very good.” There is a healthy and hardy appearance 
to this tree which promises well for it in our climate; but it has 
not yet been very widely disseminated, and the hardihood of the 
tree in low temperatures has not yet been fully tested. 

JOSEPHINE DE Mazinrs.—When the trees of this Pear have 
acquired some age, there is a very decided improvement in the 
flavor of the fruit, and it is then one of the most pleasantly 
flavored and agreeable of winter Pears. The fruit is of medium 
size, pale yellowish green ; the flesh of a most delicate pink color, 
melting, juicy, sweet, with a very distinct, but delicate, quince 
flavor; quality “very good.” It is in use during the month af! 


THE PEAR. 113 


January. The tree is but a moderate grower, healthy and pro- 
ductive, and while young the fruit is very variable in quality. 
It is not probable that this variety will be worth much in the 
colder parts of the Dominion, more especially where the summers 
are very short or cool, for it requires considerable length of season 
fully to develop and flavor the fruit. 

Lawrenor.—This variety is worthy of trial wherever the 
Pear can be grown. The tree is of the more hardy class, very 
healthy, a moderate grower, and early and abundant cropper. 
The fruit is of medium size, color lemon yellow when ripe, with 
frequent traces of russet ; the flesh is melting, juicy, sweet, with 
a very agreeable aromatic flavor ; quality almost “best.” Ripe 
in December. 

Loviss Bonne pe Jersey.—Such is the enormous produc- 
tiveness of this Pear, and the uniform good size and handsome 
appearance of the fruit, that it has become exceedingly popular. 
The tree is healthy, a very vigorous upright grower, and succeeds 
admirably when worked on the Quince stock. The fruit is better 
when grown on the Quince than on the Pear stock. It is of large 
size when well grown, but when the tree is overloaded, which is 
a very common occurrence, it is only of medium size. The color 
is a light or yellowish green on the shaded side, dark brownish 
red on the other; flesh melting, very juicy, vinous, and in the 
best specimens of a rich pleasant flavor; quality rarely above 
“good.” Ripe late in September and first of October. 

Mawnine’s Exizaseta.—A small August Pear of great ex- 
cellence, very sweet, sprightly, with a fine aromatic flavor. The 
color is bright yellow witha very handsome bright red cheek; 
and the flesh is melting, juicy and delicious; quality “best.” 
The tree is a moderate grower and very productive. It has not 
yet been sufficiently distributed throughout the Dominion to 
speak of its hardihood in our colder sections, but it can probably 
be grown without any difficulty where the Bartlett succeeds. 
Ripe in the latter end of August. 

Ospanp’s Summer.—This variety has been very generally 


114 THE PEAR. 


grown by cultivators of the Pear, and has proved to be tolerably 
hardy. as regards our climate, but quite susceptible to the disease 
known as fire blight. Indeed our own experience with it has 
been very discouraging, for as soon as the trees come into bearing 
they all go with this disease, and although we have made re- 
peated trials, there is not now a bearing tree left. 

The tree has an upright habit, is moderately vigorous, comes 
soon into bearing and yields abundantly. The fruit is small, 
clear yellow with aruddy warm cheek, juicy, sugary, rich, with a 
pleasant perfume; quality “very good.” Ripe about the middle 
of August. . 

SEcKEL.—Seckle.—This is probably the highest flavored Pear 
in the world, and has become a standard of excellence by which 
the quality of other Pears is measured. The tree also is one of 
the most healthy, adapting itself to a very great variety of soils 
and climates, and remarkably exempt from diseases of every 
description, even escaping almost entirely the mysterious fire 
blight. It is also one of the more hardy sorts, capable of sus- 
taining the rigor of a Canadian winter with almost the same 
endurance as the Flemish Beauty. It is also an abundant bearer, 
and although a slow grower, is erect in form, and makes a neat, 
compact head. 

The fruit is small, of a yellowish cinnamon russet, with a 
ruddy brown cheek ; flesh melting, very juicy, buttery, with an 
exceedingly rich spicy flavor, and very pleasant perfume ; quality 
“best.” Ripe in October. 

It is an American variety, supposeed to have originated on 
the farm of a Mr. Seckel, near the city of Philadelphia. 

Suetpon.—After growing this variety for some time we are 
forced to the conclusion that it is of very variable quality, and 
that it will succeed well only on strong, well drained soils, 
abounding in lime. Possibly as the tree acquires age the fruit 
may be better and less variable, but in our experience the fire 

| blight saves it from all the burdens of age. When well developed 
the fruit is above medium size, of a greenish yellow russet color, 


THE PEAR, 115 


very juicy, with a rich vinous flavor; quality “very good;” but 
in our experience often very poor. 

Tyson.—A medium sized Pear of great excellence and well 
worthy of trial. It is not probable that the tree is any more 
hardy than the Bartlett. It is an upright grower, thrifty and 
healthy, does not bear fruit very young, but bears large crops 
when it has reached maturity. The fruit is hardly of medium 
size, color deep yellow with a very handsome crimson cheek; 
flesh melting, juicy, very sweet, with a very agreeable aromatic 
flavor; quality almost “best.” The fruit does not drop readily 
from the tree, but will often hang until it decays on the branches. 
It ripens early in September. 

Unsaniste.— Beurré Picquery.—This variety has not been 
as generally planted as its merits déserve, and it is as yet impos- 
sible tc speak confidently of its ability to endure a cold climate, 
yet such is the very healthy habit of the tree that we expect it 
will be found among the more hardy sorts. It does not come 
very early into bearing, but when it has reached its fruiting age 
yields large crops. The fruit is above medium size, of a pale 
yellow color; the flesh very melting, juicy, rich and buttery, and 
very pleasantly and delicately perfumed; quality “very good.” 
It ripens in October and November. 

Vicar or WINKFIELD.—Le Curé. Monsieur le Curé.—We 
cannot advise the planting of this variety in our climate. After 
many years of trial and a not very limited opportunity of testing 
it as grown in various places, we are compelled to say that, in 
our judgment, it is an exceedingly poor Pear for one.that has 
attained to so great celebrity. True, the tree is productive, and 
the fruit is uniformly fair and handsome, and that is about all 
that can usually be said in its favor. Once, and only once in 
our life, we tasted a Vicar that was really good, but happening 
another year to intimate to the gentleman who exhibited that 
specimen that it would be agreeable to see some more samples 
of like quality, he blandly replied that such specimens were pro- 
duced only once in adecade. We therefore commend it to those 


116 THE PEAR. 


whose patience can feed on quantity and wait for quality. It 
ripens in December and January. 

Wasuineton.—This pretty pear has given us such entire 
satisfaction that we feel sure lovers of good fruit will be gratified 
by having it brought to their attention. It can hardly be hoped 
that it will be extremely hardy, for it originated in the State of 
Delaware ; but it will no doubt thrive well where most other 
sorts succeed. 

The fruit is barely of medium size; the color a clear yellow, 
sprinkled nearly all over with small red dots, and which are more 
particularly abundant on the sunny side. The flesh is very juicy, 
sweet, melting, and of a very agreeable flavor; quality “very 
good.” Ripe about the middle of September. 

Warre Doyvenne.—Virgalieu.—St. Michael.—Butter Pear. 
It is more than two hundred years since this variety came into 
cultivation, and it is worthy of the high estimation in which it 
has so long been held. It is a vigorous, upright grower, and 
ranks among our more hardy sorts, though not capable of enduring 
as severe cold as the Flemish Beauty. The fruit is full medium 
size, pale yellow when ripe, and sometimes has a bright red cheek 
on the side next the sun ; the flesh is fine grained, buttery, with 
a high, rich, and delicious flavor; quality “best.” Ripe in 
October, sometimes continuing into November. In Western 
New York the fruit has become so subject to spotting and crack- 
ing that the tree is much less cultivated than formerly. It may 
be that this difficulty will manifest itself among us ; if so, there 
seems to* be no alternative but to fall back upon other choice 
sorts of the same season, not subject to this affection. 

Winter Newis.—A very healthy kind, and one of the more 
hardy class, which may be planted with confidence. The tree 
has a somewhat slender habit of growth, but it bears good crops. 
The fruit is of medium size, a good deal russeted, yellowish at 
maturity ; flesh fine grained, buttery, juicy, sweet, with a pleasant 
aromatic flavor ; quality “best.” Ripe latter part of December, 
and always ripens well. 


¢ 


4 


THE PEAR, 117 


The following varieties originated in Nova Scotia, and are 
much esteemed’ by fruit growers acquainted with their merits. 
The descriptions have been kindly furnished by R. W. Starr, 
Esq. : 

Maria.—This fruit was first brought into notice by the late 
Hon. C. R. Prescott, and named by him in honor of his wife. 
It originated in the garden of the late Curran, Esq., of 
Windsor. Tree is hardy, small; young wood feeble, light 
colored.. Fruit is medium in size, round, yellow, fine grained, 
buttery, rich ; ripens ten to fourteen days earlier than the Bartlett; 
quality very good. 

Bursrwer.—One of the oldest native pears we have. The 
original tree is still standing on the farm of the late Col. Burbidge, 
near Port Williams, and though nearly a century old, is still 
vigorous. Tree large, upright; young wood stout and dark. 
Fruit small to medium, Bergamot shaped, skin greenish yellow, 
bronzed in the sun, sweet, gritty, but rich and high flavored ; 
ripens a few days earlier than the Bartlett; tree is hardy and 
prolific. : 

Lorp CornwaLiis.—This was grown and named by the late 
Benjamin Woodworth, Esq., of Cornwallis. Tree medium sized, 
rather spreading ; young wood greyish. Fruit large and hand- 
some, pyriform, as brilliantly colored as Frederic of Wurtemburg, 
but, like it, rather variable ; quality good; season October. 

Surton’s Great Briraiw.—A seedling from the Bartlett, by 
Wm. Sutton, of Cornwallis. The tree is vigorous and hardy ;. 
young wood very stout, short jointed, and dark. Fruit large to 
very large, pyriform, slightly bronzed or russeted in patches, and 
sometimes with a blush in the sun. Flesh is coarse grained, 
juicy, good. A good market fruit, ripening ten days after the- 
Bartlett. The tree is a great bearer. 


118 THE PLUM. 


THE PLUM. 


This fine fruit can be grown in much colder parts of the 
country than the Cherry, the tree being much hardier than any 
of the Heart and Bigarreau class. Wild Plums are found grow- 
ing in all parts of the Dominion, and may’ by judicious cross-fer- 
tilization become the foundation of a very hardy and valuable 
race of Plums. 

The Prunes of commerce are dried Plums, by no means as 
highly flavored as those which every Canadian housekeeper may 
provide by drying the Plums grown in our own fruit gardens. 

The tree will grow in almost every soil, but it is most at 
home and yields its best and heaviest crops in heavy, clay loams. 
In sandy soils it is more subject to the curculio insect, for the 
reason that this insect when in the grub state can more readily 
penetrate into the ground to undergo its transformations into the 
beetle state. Common salt has been found to be an excellent 
fertilizer for this tree, promoting.its health and luxuriance. Half 
a peck strewn, during the month of April, on the ground under 
each bearing tree will be enough. The black knot has been 
found to be a very troublesome disease, affecting the branches of 
the Plum tree, and if left alone in a few years causing the death 
‘of the tree. This disease is most prevalent upon trees growing 
in land that is imperfectly drained, and attacks the damson 
Plums in preference to all other varieties. Unfortunately, it is 
not confined to the damsons, but spreads first to the other purple 
sorts, and then, though in a less degree, to the yellow varieties. 
It is first seen as a soft swelling of the bark, which continues to 
increase in size until the outer cuticle of the bark is burst and 
the swelling assumes a rough, uneven surface. By degrees this 
becomes black and hard, rent with fissures, and quite dry. The 
cause of this disease is not yet known, and the best cure, besides 
growing the tree in a thoroughly drained soil, is persistent am- 
putation and burnine of these excrescences. Top-dressing the 


‘ 


THE PLUM. 119 


soil with wood ashes, and washing the bodies of the trees with 
a weak lye has been recommended as a remedy for the black knot, 
and will no doubt be found to be promotive of the health of the 
tree, even if it do not wholly prevent the growth of these un- 
sightly excrescences. ‘They can, however, be kept in complete 
subjection by planting on ground where no water stands in the 
subsoil, and by cutting off and burning the knots regularly as 
often as once a year. It is stated by F. R. Elliot, of Ohio, who - 
is high authority in fruit matters, that if the tree be watered 
with a solution of copperas made by dissolving it at the rate of 
one ounce in two gallons of water the knots will disappear. 

The Plum can be propagated both by grafting and budding. 
It is sometimes worked on the Peach stock, but such trees are 
worthless in our climate. The trees may be planted about six- 
teen feet apart, and headed low. 

Bavay’s Green Gacz.—Reine Claude de Bavay.—An excel- 
lent late variety, ripening in October, too late for some of the 
colder sections, yet ripening well in the favorable fruit districts 
of Nova Scotia and Ontario. The tree is a vigorous grower, and 
most abundantly productive. The fruit is of large size, greenish 
yellow, with splashes of deeper green ; flesh yellow, sugary, rich 
and juicy ; quality “ best.” 

Brapsuaw.— Blue Imperial.—A very large and showy fruit, 
of a reddish purple color, and very pleasant flavor, though not of 
the highest quality. The flesh is a little coarsa, yellow, juicy, 
‘adhering a little to the stone; quality “good.” Ripe latter part 
of August. The tree is vigorous, of upright habit, and bears 
good crops. 

Cor’s GotpEN Drop.—This is a very p.pular variety, but it 
does not ripen well in the northern parts of the country, except 
the season be warm and continue late. It is of large size, light 
yellow, with red dots on the sunny side; flesh yellow, firm, 
adheres to the stone, sweet, rich and delicious; ripe end of 
September. The tree is only a moderate grower, but quite pro- 
ductive. — 


120 THE PLUM. 


Denniston’s SuPERB.—This originated near Albany, in the 
State of New York, and has considerable resemblance to the 
Green Gage, being of the “ best” quality, but considerably larger 
than that old favorite sort. The tree is a much better grower 
than the Green Gage, and very productive. The fruit is round, 
medium size, pale yellowish green, not very juicy, but rich and 
of an excellent vinous flavor. Ripe the latter part of August. 

Duane’s Purrpte.—The tree is very vigorous and healthy, 
the fruit very large, reddish purple, covered with bloom, juicy, 
with a pleasant, not very sweet, but sprightly flavor; quality 
“good.” Ripe about the middle of August. 

GenrRaL Hanp.—The very large size and handsome appear- 
ance of this plum have caused it to be much sought after. The 
tree is vigorous, healthy and productive; the fruit of a deep 

_ golden yellow, not very juicy, but sweet and “good.” It ripens 
in September. 

Green Gacr.—Reine Claude.—In point of flavor this variety 
holds the first rank, and is more frequently asked for and less 
frequently planted than any other kind. Unfortunately, the tree 
is a most miserably slow grower, and makes a spreading, dwarfish 
tree; and nurserymen cultivate it very sparingly, or not at all, 
on account of its slow growing, spreading habit. The fruit is 
small, round, yellowish green; flesh pale green, juicy, and of 
a very sprightly, luscious flavor ; quality “best.” Ripe late in 
August. 

Imprriat Gace.—Prince’s Imperial Gage.—This is a seedling 
from the Green gage, and is very nearly equal in flavor to its 
parent, and the tree is much more vigorous, growing freely and 
forming an erect, handsome tree, which is healthy and productive. 
The fruit is full medium size, pale green with a yellow tinge, and 
covered with an abundant white bloom. The flesh’ is‘juicy, rich, 
and of excellent flavor; quality “best.” Ripe during the first 
half of September. 

Jzrrerson.— Another first-class Plum, ranking in quality 
with the Green Gage, but very much larger and more showy. 


THE PLUM. 121 


The tree is but a moderate grower, though better in this respect 
than the Green Gage, and bears good and regular crops. The 
fruit is of large size, of a golden yellow color, with a purplish 
cheek ; flesh orange color, very rich, juicy, and exceedingly high 
flavored. Ripe early in September. 

Lawrence’s Favorits.—Also a seedling from the Green 
Gage and partaking very fully of the good qualities of the parent, 
while it is much larger in size, and the tree upright in habit and. 
tolerably thrifty. The fruit is above medium size, in color a 
yellowish green ; flesh greenish, juicy, very rich, with a remark- 
ably pleasant vinous and delicious flavor; quality “best.” Ripe 
about the end of August. 

Lomparp.—Bleeker’s Scarlet.—Beekman’s Scarlet.—This is 
an exceedingly productive sort, and the tree one of the most 
vigorous, healthy and hardy. The fruit is of medium size, red, 
with yellow flesh, which is juicy, sweet, with a very agreeable, 
pleasant flavor; quality “good.” Ripe early in September. 

McLavcauw.—As this variety originated in Maine, and is 
an exceedingly healthy and hardy variety there, it will doubtless 
be found to be among the most desirable for our latitude. The 
fruit is large, yellow handsomely marbled with red, and covered. 
with a light bloom; flesh yellow, juicy, sweet, and exceedingly 
luscious; quality “best.” Ripe first of September. 

Ponn’s Srepiine.—Fonthill.An English variety of great 
size and beauty. The tree is very vigorous and bears abundant 
crops. Fruit very large, bright red on a yellow ground; flesh 
yellow, juicy and sweet; quality “good.” Ripe latter part of 
September. 

Prince ENGLEBERT.—This promises to be a valuable variety, 
but has not yet been very generally disseminated. The tree is 
vigorous and exceedingly productive, the fruit large, deep purple 
covered with a blue bloom; flesh juicy, sweet and excellent; 
quality “very good.” Ripe early in September. 

Princr’s YELLow Gace.—This variety has been found to be 
very generally hardy and exceedingly productive, while the tree 


122° THE QUINCE. 


makes a vigorous, upright growth. Fruit of medium size, deep 
yellow, with an abundant bloom; fiesh yellow, sweet and rich ; 
quality “very good.” Ripens early in August. 

SHarp’s Emprror.—Victoria.—An exceedingly showy and 
popular variety. The tree is vigorous, and remarkable for its 
large, handsome foliage and great productiveness. The fruit is 
large, light purple in the sun, light yellow in the shade; flesh 
yellow, a little coarse grained, with a pleasant, somewhat vinous 
flavor; quality “good.” Ripe the latter part of September. 

Surrn’s ORLEANS.—Tree vigorous and productive; fruit large, 
frequently very large, reddish purple, juicy, rich and vinous; 
quality “very good.” Has been very widely disseminated 
throughout Canada, and is a deservedly popular variety. Ripens 
about the first of September. 

WasuHineton.—This has been long known and very much 
esteemed by all growers of the Plum. It was first brought to 
notice by Mr. Bolmer, of New York City, in 1818, hence it is 
often known as Bolmer’s Washington. The tree is vigorous, a 
good bearer, and forms a handsome rounded head, with conspicu- 
ous, large, glossy leaves. The fruit is very large, greenish yellow, 
very sweet and luscious; quality “very good.” Ripe last of 
August. 

Yettow Eee.—This is another well-known and widely dis- 
seminated variety, very highly esteemed as a cooking plum. It 
is very large, yellow, somewhat coarse grained, sweet, with an 
agreeable mingling of acid. The tree is vigorous and productive. 


THE. QUINCE. 


The successful cultivation of this fruit is confined within a 
small portion of the Dominion, extending but little beyond the 
limits of peach culture. 

It thrives best in clayey loams that ate well drained, though 
it can be grown upon any good, fertile soil, free from superfluous 
moisture. Being subject, in some degree, to a disease resembling, 


THE QUINCE. 123 


if not identical with, the fire-blight of the Pear, it should not be 
supplied with fresh and stimulating manures. Barnyard manure 
that has been composted with salt, at the rate of half a bushel 
of salt to every wagon-load of manure, and become thoroughly 
decomposed, makes an excellent fertilizer for the Quince, con- 
ducing much to the health and fruitfulness of the tree, and size 
and flavor-of the fruit. 

The Quince may be planted ten feet apart each way. The 
pruning consists in thinning out the over-crowded branches, so 
as to give free circulation of air and light, and in cutting back 
the twigs that have borne fruit, to a good, strong bud, so as to 
produce new fruit spurs. It is best propagated by layering in 
this climate, though it can be grown from cuttings of the new 
growth taken off about a foot long and planted ten inches deep. 
The month of September is the best time for doing this, and 
where there is danger of the cuttings being thrown out by the 
frost, they should be covered with straw, leaves, or evergreen 
branches on the approach of winter. 

Oraner Quince.—This is the best variety for general culti- 
vation. The fruit is large, with a smooth, rich golden yellow 
skin ; ripening about the end of October. When well grown it 
commands a ready sale in all our city markets. It needs to be 
gathered and handled carefully ; the least rough usage mars its 
beauty, and even slight bruises leave very unsightly discolorations. 

PortueaL Quincz.—This is such a shy bearer that it is only 
vexatious to plant it, though the fruit is excellent, being of milder 
flavor and more beautiful color when cooked than any other. 

Rza’s SEEDLING. — Rea's Mammoth. — This is somewhat 
larger than the Orange Quince, though after some years’ trial it 
does not continue to be as much larger as it at first promised, 
In all other respects, color, form and cooking qualities, it does. 
not vary materially from the Orange. It is thrifty, healthy, and 
tolerably productive. 

Ancirr.—The fruit of this variety proves to be more valuable 
than had been supposed. It is used as a stock, on account of its 


124 HARDY GRAPES. 


thrifty growth, upon. which to bud the Pear for the purpose of 
making dwarf trees. It is found to bear quite abundantly, and 
the fruit keeps longer than the Orange Quince, though it is firmer 
fleshed and more acid. 


HARDY GRAPES. 


Within a few years the cultivation of hardy Grapes has 
received a great deal of attention, and many good varieties have 
been added to the list, some of them ripening much earlier than 
the old Isabella and Catawba, which once comprised our entire 
stock of varieties, and therefore better suited to our climate. 
It is very probable that many more sorts will be brought to the 
attention of cultivators before another quarter of a century shall 
have passed; and it is to be expected that the judicious labors 
of the several Canadian hybridizers, who have made the vine a 
prominent subject of their operations, will be rewarded by the 
production of some new varieties which are eminently adapted to 
our climate. 

One of the first questions that occupies the attention of the 
planter is that of suitable soil. From considerable observation 
and some experience in planting the vine on various soils, we 
conclude that it will thrive well and bear abundantly on sandy, 
gravelly, or clay soils, provided that there be no stagnant water 
in the soil, As a rule, also, the vine flourishes best in soils 
abounding in limestone, and where the surface is rolling, especially 
on the sides of hills and gentle slopes. Yet the vine will thrive 
and bear abundantly on a level surface, and in any soil that is 
thoroughly drained. As the cultivation of the Grape is extended 
and varieties are multiplied, it will doubtless be found that in 
certain localities the Grapes will acquire peculiar qualities and 
flavors, and that some varieties are better adapted to certain soils 
and localities than others. Already we see something of this; 
but we are not yet sufficiently advanced in vine-culture to be 
able, save in a very few instances, to point out these peculiarities. 


HARDY GRAPES. 125 


Meanwhile we may plant our Grape vines on any soil that is 
suitable for an apple orchard with every expectation of success. 
In preparing the ground for planting, the first and most essential 
point is to secure complete and perfect drainage. This having 
been secured, it should be deeply and thoroughly tilled, as deeply 
and thoroughly as any land should be to yield a good crop of 
Indian corn; and when this has been done, it will be in a suitable 
condition for the reception of Grape vines. The deep trenching 
and very heavy manuring often advised is not only quite unne- 
cessary, but positively injurious. The vine may seem to grow 
most vigorously and to bear fine fruit, but the tendency is to an 
unnatural growth, of a spongy texture, less able to resist the 
sudden changes and great extremes of temperature incident to 
our climate, resulting at last in disease and premature decay. 

The distances apart at which Grape vines should be planted 
have been variously stated by different writers; but a more 
extended experience in the cultivation of our varieties in our 
soils and climate, has brought the most thoughtful cultivators to 
the conclusion that most of our vines should be planted not less 
than twelve feet apart each way. This is about the distance that 
present experience suggests as requisite for the most healthy 
development and most economical and profitable culture of the 
Grape. Parties interested in selling a large number of vines 
may continue to recommend closer planting; but experience is 
teaching us, and a sound judgment, based upon a knowledge 
of our climate and of the habits of our varieties of the vine, 
indicates that this distance is the one best adapted to our cir- 
cumstances. 

Of the proper manner of planting, it is hardly needed that 
anything should be added to what has been said on the subject 
of planting in general. The soil having been thoroughly pulver- 
ised by previous tillage, it remains only to make a shallow 
excavation of sufficient diameter to admit of the roots being all 
carefully spread out and extended their entire length, and then 
covered with a ae to the depth of three or four inches, then 


126 HARDY GRAPES. 


gently pressed down with the foot. After the planting has beer 
done in this manner, the surface should be covered, as far as the 
roots extend, with some sort of mulch, such as straw, leaves, or 
coarse litter. Planting may be done either in the fall or spring, 
at any time after the leaves fall in autumn, and before the buds 
burst in the spring, and when the soil is in a condition to be 
worked. The success of the operation depends more upon the 
care of the planter in the selection of suitable ground and its 
preparation, and in the planting of the vine, than on the season 
of the year when it is performed. When the vine is planted it 
should be cut back to two buds, and if the planting be done 
in the fall the mulching should be allowed to cover the vine 
during the winter, but removed just as the buds are swelling in 
spring, sufficiently to-admit of their expanding without hindrance. 

‘When the young vines begin to grow, all the shoots but one, 
usually all but the one nearest the ground, should be rubbed off. 
If the one nearest the ground seems to be feeble, or from any 
cause unsuitable, then the next shoot that is suitable should be 
retained, and all the others rubbed off. A small stake—a strip 
of lath will answer very well for a season or two—should be 
thrust into the ground at each plant, and the vine carefully tied 
to it as it grows during the summer. Beyond this, the only 
care required is to cultivate the ground lightly around the vines, 
not suffering any weeds to grow among them, and giving the 
roots every encouragement to grow and extend themselves, and 
allowing the canes to grow without any other restraint than 
merely tying them to the stake. This will complete the first 
season’s growth. 

It has been very generally recommended to prune the grape 
in the fall, but every year’s experience confirms the opinion that 
in our climate it is on the whole much better to prune in the 
spring. In some places and seasons the weather will be sich 
that pruning can be done in March, while in others it may be 
: impossible to do it before April. But pruning the vine is not 
' to be regulated by the day of the month. As soon as the wea 


HARDY GRAPES. 127 


ther has become mild enough to admit of the work being com- 
fortably done, it will be the proper time to set about the pruning. 
The only objection that has been urged against pruning the grape 
in the spring is that the vines weep, or, as some say, bleed at 
the cut, and that this weeping is injurious. If pruned early, as 
soon as the weather will admit, this weeping will not be excessive, 
and so far from being injurious, is positively beneficial, serving to 
check the very rampant wood growth so common to most of our 
American varieties. 

In the spring, then, of the second year the cane should be 
cut back to two or three eyes, and as soon as the shoots have 
fairly started, two of the strongest should be selected, and 
all the others rubbed off. As the growing shoots lengthen they 
should be tied to the stake, and the vines treated precisely as in 
the preceding summer. During this summer preparations should 
be made for permanently staking and trellising the vineyard. 
This will involve the necessity of deciding upon the method of 
training to be pursued. There are many methods practised, but 
it is not necessary that they should be all described. We shall 
content ourselves with two modes of training, either of which 
has been found to answer well in this climate, and may be 
known as the upright and the horizontal. The upright trellis is 
made in the usual form, by planting posts along the row of vines 
and stretching upon them three horizontal wires. The best wire 
is galvanized iron wire, using number ten size for the lowest one, 
and number twelve for the middle and upper. Each pound of 
number ten will extend twenty feet in length, and number 
twelve will reach thirty-three feet. Cedar, oak, or chestnut will 
make good posts, and the two posts at the ends of the trellis will 
require bracing to resist the strain of the wires. Some plant the 
end post very deep and in an oblique position, the top leaning 
from the row, so that the position of the post shall be a sufficient 
brace. Each vine having been pruned to form two canes, these 
canes are stretched horizontally along the lowest wire and securely 
fastened there. These canes will be the permanent arms of the 


128 HARDY GRAPES. 


vine, and will be allowed to extend until those of one vine nearly 
meet those of its neighbor, and then stopped. In the spring of 
the third year the buds on these now horizontal canes will start 
into growth, and those will be selected for training upon the 
trellis which are from eight to twelve inches apart, and all the 
rest carefully rubbed off. As the shoots grow they will be fast- 
ened in an upright position to the trellis, When they have 
made a growth of two feet in length, it is advisable to check them 
by pinching off the point of the shoot. This is done in order to 
check the upward flow of the sap, and cause the buds that are 
forming in the axils of the leaves to be more fully developed. 
The terminal bud, and sometimes more than one, will soon break, 
and continue their upward growth until they reach the top of the 
trellis, where they may beagain pinched off, care being taken not to 
allow one cane to become longer than the others and so absorb to 
itself an undue amount of sap. If the vine be quite vigorous, 
some bunches of fruit will be developed this season at the base 
of these upright shoots, and one or two may be allowed to 


Fig. 44. 


remain and ripen, regulating the quantity according to the 
strength of the vine, taking care not to allow too much fruit 
to remain while the vine is young, as that would prove a serious 
injury to the future health and fruitfulness of the vine. During 
the summer, the lateral or side shoots that may start from tHiesa 
upright canes are stopped or pinched back, to prevent them 


HARDY GRAPES. 129 


from extending too far. In the autumn of this year, after 
the (leaves have fallen, the vine will have the appearance shown 
in Figure 44, : 

In the spring of the fourth year, each of these upright canes 
may be cut back to two eyes, and two canes be allowed to grow. 
These may now each bear two or three bunches of grapes, accord- 
ing to the strength of the vine, and be treated in all respects 
as the upright canes were during the last summer. In the 
autumn of the fourth year the vine will have the appearance 
shown in Figure 45. 


| 


{ 


Fig. 45. 


In the spring of the fifth and all subsequent years the upper 
of the two canes should be cut away entirely, and the lower cane 
shortened in to two eyes, which may be allowed to grow and 
form two canes as before, and each cane be allowed to bear three 
clusters of grapes. This completes the system, and the further 
pruning consists in annually cutting off the upper one of the two 
canes and shortening the lower cane to two eyes. 

The HORIZONTAL MODE of training the vine, or, as it issometimes 
called, the arbor system, consists in training the vine at first 
upright to the desired height, and then allowing it to run hori- 
zontally. There is no doubt this conforms more nearly to the 
natural habit of the vine, which grows perpendicularly for a 


130 HARDY GRAPES. 


time, and until it reaches a suitable support, when it stretches 
away in a horizontal direction, covering everything within its 
reach, 

In preparing the trellis for this system of training, it is not 
usual to insert the posts in the ground at all, but merely to place 
them on the surface, with a flat stone under the foot. These 
posts are usually made seven feet in length, placed at a distance of 
six feet apart, and horizontal bars nailed upon the top, reaching 
along the posts in two directions, at right angles to each other, 
and then braces are nailed from the posts to the horizontal bars, 
In this way a framework is formed upon the top of the posts, 
which keeps them in an upright position, and strips are nailed 
across upon these horizontal bars so as to form a sufficient support 
for the vines. In this way the entire weight of the trellis, and of 
the vines growing upon it, rests upon the top of the posts, and 
being at an elevation of seven feet from the surface of the ground, 
admits of cultivation underneath in every direction, and dispenses 
entirely with the use of wires. Besides, there is no rotting off 
of posts, no strain upon post or nail, no heaving out of place by 
the frost, nor blowing down by the wind. 

The vines are trained during the summer of the second year 
to the top of this trellis, by tying them to the temporary stakes 
planted near them; and when they reach the horizontal part, are 
trained along the horizontal bars. If the vines are healthy and 
vigorous, they will make considerable growth along the horizontal 
bars during this summer, and they are allowed to make all the 
growth they will. It will be borne in mind that up to the 
present time the treatment of the vine has been the same as that 
already described ; during the first year it was trained as a single 
cane, in the spring of the second year it was cut back to two 
eyes and two canes allowed to grow, and these trained up to 
and on to the horizontal trellis. 

In the spring of the third year each of these two canes is cut 
back to about a foot below the horizontal trellis, and four canes 
are led up on to the trellis, two from each cane. These four 


HARDY GRAPES. 131 


canes aa they extend in length are fastened to the horizontal bars, 
and so xeparated as to give sufficient room to each. These 
growing canes are not stopped at all or pinched back, nor are 
the laterals that may grow pinched in, for as the vine is now 
growing in a horizontal position there is no danger of any un- 
‘due determination of the sap to the extremities of the shoots, 
thereby robbing the lower buds of their due share of nourish- 
ment. Therefore in this horizontal method of training all summer 
pinching of the ends of shoots and of laterals is dispensed with, 
and all that is required is to keep down all sprouts that may 
come up from the roots, and to rub off the buds that start out 
along the main upright stem. 

In the spring of the fourth, and of all subsequent years, the 
vines will be pruned by shortening in the previous summer's 
growth to four, five, or six buds according to the strength of the 
vine and the amount of fruit it may be safely allowed to bear; 
and as the vines increase in age and size the old wood can be cut 
out and replaced by new wood. The fruit will hang down from 
the trellis overhead, and be completely protected by the foliage 
growing above, while the leaves will be fully exposed to the full 
action of the light, the air and the dews. At night the heat 
radiated from the earth is not lost by being dissipated in the air, 
but is retained by the canopy of leaves overhead, thereby con- 
tributing to the perfection and maturation of the fruit. 

We do not hesitate to say that for the more rampant growing 
varieties, such as the Clinton, Isabella, and others of like habit,’ 
we are fully persuaded that the horizontal trellis is much better 
than any other system of training the vine. These vines do not 
bear to be dwarfed by constant severe. cutting and pinching. The 
results of this savage style of pruning have uniformly been, after 
a few years of struggling with the pruning knife, diseased vines, 
mildew and rot, resulting in loss of crop and frequently the death 
of the vines. It is only while the vines are young that they 
bear well; consequently it has been recommended to keep the 
vineyard always young by constant renewing of the vines, by 


132 HARDY GRAPES. 


layering the branches every few years, and raising new vines, 
and rooting out the old ones. But this is all wrong. The vine 
is naturally long-lived. In the Province of Ontario it has grown 
to measure four feet in circumference, and that system of culture 
must be bad that kills the vines off every eight or ten years. 

The following varieties of grapes are worthy of «attention ; 
some of them have been already extensively tried and their repu- 
tation well established; others require more extended experiment 
before their exact worth will be fully ascertained. 

Aprronpac.—This is one of the newer sorts, but has been 
fruited in the milder parts of Ontario for some years, and generally 
given good satisfaction. It ripens early, usually a few days before 
the Hartford Prolific, and will hang on thevine retaining its quality 
until the frosts cut thefoliage. In size of bunch and berryitclosely 
resembles the Isabella, and like it is black when ripe. The flesh 
is soft and breaking, with a sweet and agreeable flavor. The 
vine is not as vigorous a grower as the Isabella, and will probably 
bear closer planting. . 

Acawam—Rogers’ No. 15.—In point of flavor we esteem 
this variety among the most desirable of Mr. Rogers’ Hybrid 
Grapes. There is just enough of the native wild grape flavor 
remaining to give it a pleasant Muscat taste, while the flesh is 
tender and juicy. The bunch varies a good deal in size, which 
is a serious failing, but it bears large crops. The vine is very 
hardy and a rampant grower. Some complaint has been made 
of rotting of the fruit, and mildew of the vine, probably largely 
owing to the vicious system of pruning which has been practised — 
that of attempting to confine its vigorous habit within too small 
a space. The color of the berries is red. 

Auvey.—The berry of this variety is so small that it will 
never be popular as a table grape. The bunches are of good 
size, long, and well shouldered, and the berries, which are black 
when ripe, have a very pleasant, refreshing, vinous flavor. It is 
thought that it will prove to be valuable as a wine grape. It has 
not been sufficiently disseminated in the Dominion to test its 
hardihood. 


HARDY GRAPES. 133 


AvtucHon. — Arnold's No. 5.—This was raised by Mr. 
Charles Arnold, of Paris, Ontario, from seed of the Clinton, 
fertilized with the Golden Chasselas. The bunches are long, and 
sometimes shouldered, the berries hardly medium size, greenish 
yellow, resembling in flavor the White Chaaselas. It is doubtful 
whether this variety is sufficiently hardy to endure the cold in 
the more severe parts of the country: It ripens about the same 
time as the Delaware. 

Barry—Rogers No. 43.—The bunches of this variety are 
not very long, but broad and compact ; berries large, round, and 
black, with a tender flesh, juicy’and sweet; ripening about the 
same time as the Concord. It seems to be very hardy, and able 
to withstand severe cold. 

Brant—Arnold’s No. 8.—Another of Mr. Arnold’s seed- 
lings, raised from seed of the Clinton, fertilized with the Black 
St. Peter’s. The vine is a strong grower, healthy, and promises 
to be quite hardy. The bunch is of medium size, the berries 
small, black, free from pulp, very juicy, sweet, with a rich, aro- 
matic flavor. It colors early, but improves in quality by being 
allowed to hang on the vines until frost. The wood ripens early. 

Canapa—Arnold’s No. 16.—Also from the Clinton, fer- 
tilized with Black St. Peter’s. A very vigorous grower, and 
giving good promise of being hardy. The bunches are about the 
size of well grown Clintons, the berries somewhat larger, black, 
juicy, with a very agreeable, sprightly flavor, the best, in point 
of flavor, of all his seedlings. Ripe with the Concord. 

CatawBa.—This old and well-known variety cannot be grown 
in perfection save in a few favored localities. It requires a 
longer season, with a greater total of heat than our summers gen- 
erally give us, to develop the full flavor and richness of this 
grape. Along the north shore of lake Erie it is oftener ripened 
than in any other part of Canada. 

Crimton.—One of our most hardy varieties, which has been 
very largely planted as ‘a wine Grape. The vine is very vigor- 
ous, healthy and productive; the bunch of medium size, 


134 HARDY GRAPES. 


shouldered, compact; berries below medium size, black, juicy, 
with a brisk, somewhat acid, vinous flavor. The acidity is much 
ameliorated by allowing the Grapes to hang on the vine until 
after severe frosts. The Grapes keep well, and are very pleasant 
and refreshing in January and February. It is not much used 
as a table Grape on account of its acidity, but is much esteemed 
for cooking and canning. 

Concorp.—A very popular variety, which succeeds well in 
most of the Grape region of the Dominion. The vine is very 
healthy, moderately vigorous and exceedingly productive. Bunch 
of good size, compact and well shouldered; berries large, round 
and black, juicy and sweet, with considerable pulpiness. The 
skin is thin, and on that account the Grape needs to be handled 
with care in sending to market. It ripens fully ten days before 
the Isabella, and is more hardy. 

Cornucoria.—Arnold’s No. 2.—Another product of Black 
St. Peter’s upon the Clinton, raised by Mr. Arnold, of Paris, On- 
tario, and esteemed by him as one of the most healthy and pro- 
ductive varieties in cultivation. The bunch is large, shouldered 
and very compact; berries of medium size, black, juicy, without 
pulpiness, with a brisk, vinous flavor. Ripe with the Concord. 

CrEvELING.—Laura Beverly.—One of the most delightfully 
flavored early Grapes, ripening about the same time as the Hart- 
ford Prolific, but much superior in quality. There is no doubt 
but that it is identical with the Laura Beverly, which name it 
received from the Rev. Canon Dixon, of Port Dalhousie, who 
supposed for some time that his vine was an accidental seedling, 
and had not seen or even heard of the Creveling at the time he 
gave it the name of Laura Beverly. If Mr. Dixon’s vine be a 
seedling, it is too exactly like the Creveling to warrant its cultiva- 
tion asa distinct variety. They both have the bad habit of setting 
the berries imperfectly, so that the bunch is often not half filled. 
Could this defect be remedied, the variety would be worthy of 
all commendation. When well filled, the bunch is large, well 
shouldered, and tolerably compact; berries of medium size, black; 


HARDY GRAPES. 135 


flesh tender, with scarcely any pulpiness, sweet, juicy, rich and 
fine flavored. The vine seems to be as hardy as the Concord, 
and moderately productive. 

Croroy.—Not having fruited this variety, we can give only 
the testimony of others concerning it; but the fact that it ripens 
about the same time as the Hartford Prolific, makes it worthy of 
attention by Canadian cultivators, on account of its earliness. 
The vine is said to be hardy and vigorous; the bunches medium 
in size and shouldered; berries below medium, light greenish 
yellow, juicy, sweet and rich. 

Detaware.—This is the best hardy grape, all things considered, 
that we have yet seen. It thrives best in sandy or gravelly 
loam, not so well in stiff clay. The vine is a good grower, not 
coarse, and requires a rich soil, that is thoroughly drained, to 
produce its finest samples of fruit. It is remarkably healthy, and 
sufficiently hardy to endure quite severe winters. When well 
cared for, it is exceedingly productive, and the bunches need 
thinning out lest it be too heavily burdened with fruit. Bunch 
is small, shouldered, compact ; berries small, light red, and sweet, 
with a very pleasant, aromatic, vinous flavor. Ripe before the 
Concord, and very nearly as early as the Hartford Prolific. Is 
used both for the table and wine. 

Diana.—Possessed of many good qualities, it nevertheless 
ripens but little earlier than the Catawba, and therefore is not 
adapted to general cultivation in this Dominion. It thrives best 
on not very rich, clayey loam, well drained and warm, and 
abounding in limestone. 

Evmetan.—A hardy, productive and early ripening variety, 
but recently introduced ; said to have a good sized bunch, with 
berry of medium size, bluish black, melting, sweet, with a 
sprightly, vinous flavor, and to ripen fully as early as the Hart- 
ford Prolific. The Fruit Growers’ Association distributed a plant 
of this vine to each of its members in the spring of 1870, and in 
a, few years its qualities and suitableness for the climate of On- 
tario will be well known. 


136 HARDY GRAPES. 


Hartrorp Proiric.—In general appearance of vine and of 
both bunch and berry this variety bears considerable resemblance 
to the Isabella, but ripens much earlier and is not as good in 
flavor. It is orle of the earliest ripening sorts we have, and sells 
readily in the market at good prices. It has the defect of drop- 
ping its berries from the bunch as soon as ripe, yet this does not 
take place every season. When ripe, however, they should be 
gathered and used, as they do not improve in flavor by being 
allowed to hang on the vine, but on the contrary become musky, 
and lose all sprightliness. The vine is about as hardy as the 
Isabella, but not quite as vigorous in growth; the bunches large, 
shouldered, tolerably compact; berry large, round, black, mode- 
rately juicy, sweet, with a good deal of pulp. 

Iona.—After some years of trial we are obliged to say that 
this Grape is neither hardier nor much, if any, earlier than the 
Isabella. Those who can grow and ripen the Isabella may hope 
to succeed with this Grape, but it will no doubt be better in 
climates that enjoy longer summers than those of Canada gene- 
rally. The bunch is large, loose, but shouldered; the berries are 
full medium, red, juicy, sweet, with a pleasant vinous flavor. 

IsraELLa.—This ripens very soon after the Hartford Prolific, 
and on that account is well worthy of trial. Though sent out at 
the same time with the Iona and by the same cultivator, it was 
not as highly lauded, and has perhaps in consequence not been 
very generally tested in the colder parts of Canada. The vine is 
vigorous, productive, and probably will prove to be as hardy as 
the Concord. The bunches are above medium size, shouldered 
and compact; berries large, black, juicy, sweet, and without 
pulpiness. 

IsaBeLLa.—One of the most vigorous, healthy and productive 
varieties ip cultivation, and where it ripens well is one of the 
most profitable. Unfortunately it requires a longer summer than 
is to be found in most of the Dominion to ripen its fruit well, 
and it cannot endure exposure to great extremes of cold. Ii is 
believed to be a native of South Carolina. The burichgs are 


HARDY GRAPES. 137 


large, loose, shouldered; berries blackish purple, juicy, sweet, 
with but littie pulp or muskineas. 

Linpiey.—Roger's No. 9.—A very vigorous and productive 
sort, with a long compact bunch; berries medium in size, red, 
juicy, sweet and aromatic. Ripe just before the Concord. ; 

Lypia.—A white or greenish white variety that has been 
fruited in but a few places in Canada. The vine is not more 
hardy than the Isabella, and seems to be a shy bearer. Those 
who are anxious to obtain a Grape of this color might try this 
and the Martha. The bunch is short and compact; berries large, 
juicy, rich and sweet, with scarcely any pulp. Ripe at the same 
time as the Delaware. ; 

Martua.—ls said to be a seedling of the Concord. We 
have not fruited it, but the few specimens we have seen did not 
equal the Concord in quality. Its admirers claim for it that the 
vine is as hardy, healthy and productive, as the Concord. 

Merrimacg.— Rogers’ No. 19.—The vine has the same 
character of vigorous growth, combined with health and hardi- 
ness, that pertains to these seedlings. The bunch is short, but 
broad and compact; the berries large, round and black, juicy 
and sweet, with very little pulp; ripe about same time as the 
Concord. 

OrnELio.—Arnold’s No. 1.—The largest, both in berry and 
bunch, and by far the most showy and attractive of all of Mr. 
Arnold’s Seedlings. It was raised from seed of a wild grape of 
the Clinton type, fertilized with the Black Hamburgh. The 
vine is a strong grower, and very productive; the bunches are 
large, shouldered and compact; the berries large, black, with a 
firm, meaty flesh, free from all toughness, juicy, with a sprightly 
vinous flavor. It ripens about with the Concord. We think 
that in climates where the season is longer, it will be a sweeter 
and finer grape than it is here, and that it will not be likely to 
prove valuable in those sections where the Concord does not 
ripen well. 

OntaRi0.—This is thought by many to be identical with the 


138 . MILDEW. 


Union Village, but our observations have not fully satisfied us 
that this is the case. It is an exceedingly coarse, vigorous grow- 
ing variety, not any more hardy than the Isabella, with exceed- 
ingly large, compact, well shouldered bunches, and berries fully 
as large as those of the Black Hamburgh ; black, juicy, with 
very little pulp, and a pleasant, mild, vinous flavor. It ripens 
usually a little before the Isabella. 

Resecoa.—Is not suited to general culture, thriving well 
only in a few favored localities. It is a white Grape, of good 
quality, ripening at the same time as the Isabella. The vine 
is not vigorous, nor capable of enduring extremes of cold. 

Satem.—Rogers’ No. 22.—One of the best of the red-colored 
Grapes of Mr. Rogers’ Seedlings. A healthy and vigorous vine, 
bearing abundantly, having good sized, short, but compact 
bunches, and large, round, dark red berries, which are juicy, 
sweet and aromatic, with very little pulp; ripe about with the 
Concord. It is said that this Grape will keep well through the 
winter. We have seen samples exhibited the latter part of Jan- 
uary, in fine condition. 

Witper—Rogers’ No. 4—The best black grape raised by 
Mr. Rogers. The vine is vigorous, healthy, and productive. 
The bunches are sometimes large, shouldered, and compact ; ber- 
ries large, with very little pulp; sweet, juicy, and rich ; ripe 
with the Concord. 


MILDEW 


Mildew is often spoken of as a disease of the vine ; it appears 
on the leaves, sometimes extending to the growing shoots. This 
mildew is a parasitic plant, and is not, properly speaking, a dis- 
ease, nor even the first cause of disease, but only comes in con- 
sequence of an enfeebled condition of the vine. These parasitic 
plants do not find in the healthy vine the conditions favourable 
to their development. It is when the vine has received some 
shock, has become in some degree unhealthy, that these para-, 


MILDEW. 139 


sites, ever ready to fasten on enfeebled and failing vegetation, 
finding conditions more or less favorable to their development, 
begin to appear. Having become once established, they prey 
upon the vine, make it yet more feeble, and hasten its destruc- 
tion. There are some vines of so delicate and feeble a constitu- 
tion that parasitic fungi find in them a congenial soil, and may 
be surely expected, sooner or later, to appear ; but in vines of a 
robust constitution, like the Clinton, Concord, and many others, 
where we find these parasitic fungi in the form of mildew present, 
we may be sure that some cause is at work which has enfeebled 
and injured the health of the vine. Overbearing is a very com- 
mon cause of sickly and enfeebled vines; injudicious pruning, 
especially late fall pruning, and severe summer pruning are, in 
this climate, also a prolific source of injury to the vigor of the 
vines. It may be necessary, in order to restore the vines to 
health, to destroy the fungi that are feeding upon them ; but, 
unless the other enfeebling causes are removed also, and the vine 
wholly restored, these fungi will continue to appear year after 
year, in spite of all applications of sulphur or other substances 
destructive to them, and in the end the vine will perish. 

Mildew should, therefore, be usually regarded as an indication 
of want of perfect health in the vine, and the cause of that 
failure of health be diligently sought for, and, if found, promptly 
removed. Some of the causes have been indicated, but there are 
others, and some of these it is not possible to remedy. The vines 
of Europe thrive here for a few years, but the extremes of tem- 
perature in our climate are too severe for their constitutional 
vigor ; they become gradually enfeebled, mildew makes its ap- 
pearance, destroys the foliage so that the wood cannot ripen, 
and the next winter they are irretrievably ruined. Flour of 
sulphur dusted upon the leaves is the best known agent for the 
destruction of the mildew. 


140 CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 


CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 


The following hints are designed to aid those who are desirous 
of growing a few vines under glass, and who propose to be in 
this matter their own gardeners, and being therefore without the 
assistance of scientific cultivators, wish to avail themselves of 
plain, simple directions how to proceed. The writer, in preparing 
these suggestions, has availed himself of the very admirable little 
treatise by Mr. William Thomson, of Dalkeith Park, Scotland, 
making such changes as the difference in climate seemed to 
require. 

SHAPE AND SIZE OF VINERY. 


When the object sought in the erection of a vinery is the 
production of early Grapes, there is no form so suitable as a “lean- 
to,” with the roof sloping full to the south-south-east. “When itis 
desired to have late Grapes, say those ripening in August and 
September, the span-roofed form is best and most economical, 
and should be placed with one end to the south and the other to 
the north, which will make the roof to slope to the east and west. 
It is better that the house be of sufficient size to be maintained 
easily at a uniform temperature. Ifit be very small, it is too 
easily affected by the changes of weather going on without. Let 
it be, if practicable, say height of back wall fifteen feet; width 
of house fifteen feet; height of front sashes two feet six inches; 
length forty feet, outside measurement. A house of these di- 
mensions has a good length of rafter, which enables the vines to 
carry a large extent of foliage, and become vigorous plants as 
compared with those confined to a short rafter. The front sashes 
should be in sections, and hung upon hinges at the upper edge, 
having a curved, notched iron rod fastened on the inner side of 
each section, so that any one or all of these sections can be opened 
to any desired extent, when required for the purpose of ventil- 
ation, or kept securely closed. The upper ventilators should be 
three feet long by one foot wide, and placed in the back wall 


CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 141 


eighteen inches below the plate. There should be a ventilator 
in each space between the rafters. The easiest arrangement for 
opening and closing them, is to swing them on a pivot, with a 
curved iron rod running from the edge of each ventilator and 
fastened securely to a larger rod, which is run the whole length 
of the house, and which is supported on brackets fastened in the 
wall and standing out about three inches from the face of the 
wall. This long rod is very readily and cheaply obtained by 
using inch gas pipe. At one end of this long rod, and running 
at right angles to it, is fastened a rod or bar to act as a lever in 
turning the long rod on its axis. From the end of this lever 
depends a handle, which is pierced at the lower extremity with 
numerous holes. When it is desired to open the ventilators at 
the top of the house, tley are all openened simultaneously and 
to any desired height, by means of this handle, which acting 
upon the lever turns the long rod, and this turning of the rod 
pushes open the ventilators. These are kept open to any desired 
degree by slipping the lower end of the handle on to a peg fixed 
in the wall, which passes through any one of the several holes 
with which the lower end is perforated. 

A good mode of building is to put up a frame, fill in between 
the studs with brick Jaid in mortar, making a four inch wall, 
and then plaster on the brick. All the interior of the house 
should be made as smooth as possible, and the wood work well 
painted, so that the house may be thorougly cleansed every year, 
and leave no hiding place for insects. The roof should be fixed, 
the astragals reaching from the plate to the ridge, and the 
glass bedded in putty, with a lap of not more than one-eighth 
down to one-sixteenth of an inch. If pieces of tin, four inches 
wide, be first laid for the bottom course, and then the glass laid 
on, lapping the eighth of an inch on the tin, it will be found a 
saving of glass in frosty weather. The rafters should be two by 
six inches, placed three feet ten inches apart, from centre to 
centre, and a vine trained under each rafter. Across the upper 
side of the rafters, ane about midway of their length, should run 


142 CULTIVATION OF THB GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 


a stringer of oak the whole length of the house, 3 x 1} inches, 

upon which the astragals will rest, in notches cut in the upper 

side to receive them. At the bottom of these notches a small, 

4g round three-eighths of an inch hole should 

be bored across the stringer, so that a drop 

of water running down the bottom of the 

astragal will not be stopped by the stringer, 

but may run on to the lower end. The 

astragals should be made of clear stuff 2x 1 

inch. The upper side should be rabbeted 

half an inch deep, with a seat of one-fourth 

of an inch to receive the glass, and the 

under side should be beveled off to a point 

i of one-eighth of an inch in width, leaving 

only a depth of half an inch below the 

glass, which is fully one inch in thick- 

ness. The accompanying cut, Fig. 46, re- 
presents a section of an astragal. 


dain 
Fig. 46. 

Into the under side of the rafters should be screwed eyes or 
loops, with such length of rod that the wires, when drawn 
through them, shall be sixteen inches from the glass—the wires 
running the whole length of the house, at right angles to the 
rafters. These eyes should be fastened into the rafters every ten 
inches, thus bringing the wires not more than ten inches apart. 


HEATING THE VINERY. 


The best method of heating a vinery is by means of hot 
water, and in a house of the size above mentioned, in which 
it is intended to force early grapes, in order to heat it suffi- 
ciently there should be about one foot in length of four-inch 
pipe to every fourteen feet of cubic space, or say three hundred 
and twenty-five feet of pipe. As the heat is most needed at 
the front, it will be found a good arrangement to place five 
Pipes along the front and ends, and two return pipes along the 
back—the pipes running under the walk which is carried 
around the house. 


143 


CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 


SS 


WS 


SSS 


SS 


S 


SS 


S 


SN 


SS gy 


SS 


SSSSS 


RE 


EXPANSION 
(es 
ry 


3A 14 


144 QULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 


Fig. 47 represents the ground plan of a vinery, showing the 
water-pipes and boiler. The hot water flows from the top of 
the boiler, rans through the pipes along the front and ends, 
and returns to the bottom of the boiler by the two pipes along 
the back of the vinery 

If a span-roofed house is preferred, the construction will be 
much the same as that already described. Of course there will 
be no back wall, but in place of it, another roofing of glass ; and 
instead of the top ventilators being as in the “lean-to,” there 
must be some arrangement made at the ridge of the roof. A 
convenient arrangement is to run the astragals to the ridge on the 
west side, and glaze that side tight to the top. On the eastside, 
run the astragals only to within about eighteen inches of the top, 
and between every other rafter place a ventilator, three feet long 
and one foot wide, hinged on the upper edge, and rabbeted so as to 
lap over half an inch on the lower side and at the two ends, when 
closed. On the inside, near the lower edge, is fastened, with 
a staple, a small rod, with which the ventilator can be pushed 
open and kept at any desired elevation. 

Or, instead of ventilators fastened on hinges, narrow sashes 
may be made to slide down and up between the rafters, which 
are opened and shut by a cord passing over pulleys. The only 
objection to this latter method is, that sometimes, in freezing 
weather, the sliding sash becomes frozen fast, so that it cannot 
be made to slide; though, with proper attention, it will very 
seldom be necessary to open the top ventilators in such weather. 


Fig. 48. 
The above diagram illustrates the method of admitting 
fresh air into the vinery in cold weather, when it is impossible 
to open the side or front ventilators with safety. 


CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 145 


a Represents the flow pipe running along the front of the 
vinery, and if there be several, the one nearest to the front wall; 
5 is a tin or galvanized iron covering, made to enclose the hot 
water pipe, but having a diameter one inch more than the hot 
pipe it encloses, and brought down at the ends so as to fit tight 
at those points, thus enclosing a space of half an inch all round 
the flow pipe inside the sheath. This cavity is fed with fresh 
air from the exterior of the house by a pipe, ¢, five inches in 
diameter, which springs from the lower surface of the sheath, and 
passes through the front wall of the house to the external air. 
There is a valve, d, in the feed pipe to modify the supply of fresh 
air at pleasure. In the upper surface of the sheath is a double 
row of small holes, so that the moment the cold air comes into 
the hot chamber round the {pipe, and gets hot, expanded and 
lighter, it makes its exit through these holes into the general 
atmosphere of the house. In this way a constant supply of fresh 
air can be obtained without causing a cold draught. This is 
more especially desired for houses used for early forcing, at which 
season the weather is nearly all the time so cold that it is unsafe 
to open the front ventilators. 

It is always desirable to have some means of heating even a 
cold grapery, for it often happens that the warm days of early 
spring, which start the vines nicely, are followed by a period of 
chilly weather, accompanied by frosty nights, and unless the 
temperature of the house can be kept up the vines become severely 
chilled, and sometimes in a single night they will receive a shock 
from which they will not recover in a fortnight. For this pur- 
pose, however, a couple of pipes, running around the house, will 
be quite sufficient, and can be used at such times, either in the 
early spring, or when in bloom, or in the damp weather in the 
fall. 
The best boiler, all things considered, for a small house, is the 
plain saddle boiler. It is quite unnecessary to enter upon a 
discussion here of the merits of the many boilers which have 
been invented, and all of which are advertised as “improved.” 


146 CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 


Those who wish to experiment in this direction, and spend 
considerable money in making these experiments, will find ample 
opportunity for doing so; the wise man will be satisfied “to 
let well enough alone.” 

The best method of heating all horticultural structures is by 
hot water. Common air always contains in suspension minute 
particles of animal and vegetable matter, besides being more or 
less filled with aqueous vapor.. When this atmosphere is made 
to pass over highly heated metallic surfaces these particles of or- 
ganic matter are decomposed by the heat, and resolved into their 
various elementary gases; and the suspended aqueous vapor is 
also decomposed, the oxygen thereof uniting with the hot iron 
surface, and the hydrogen mixing with the air. These changes 
make the atmosphere extremely deleterious to both animal and 
vegetable life. Metallic surfaces should never be heated above 
212 degrees of Fahrenheit for all purposes of warming dwellings 
or horticultural buildings, and where the heating is done by hot 
water the most careless manager can never exceed this point. 
Heating by means of brick flues is not as objectionable as by hot 
air stoves or furnaces; yet in our extremely cold climate, rendering 
it sometimes necessary to heat the fiues to a high temperature, 
the organic matter in the atmosphere becomes decomposed, and 
the expansion of bricks admits of an escape of gases from the 
fuel, through the fissures and joints. 

Besides these reasons, a greater permanency of temperature 
is obtained by the use of hot water than is possible by any other 
method. Steam circulating in pipes will not maintain the same 
permanency of temperature. A tube filled with water at a tem- 
perature of 212° Fahrenheit contains 1694 times as much matter 
as one of the same size filled with steam. Hence it is that a 
given bulk of water, in falling from a temperature of 212° to 60°, 
will give out 228 times as much heat as the same bulk of steam 
reduced to the same temperature of 60°; or, in other words, a 
given bulk of steam will lose as much of its heat in one minute as 
the same bulk of water will lose in three hours and three quarters, 


CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 147 


But this is not all the difference. The heat of the iron pipe must 
also be taken into consideration, which, if calculated at four 
inches in diameter and one-fourth of an inch in thickness, will, 
in the case of hot water, contain 4.68 times as much heat as the 
one filled with steam; so that in fact if the pipe, when filled 
with steam, cools down to 60° in one hour, it will require four 
hours and a half to cool the iron to the same temperature when 
filled with water. Nor yet is this all. As soon as the water in 
the boiler falls below 212°, all circulation of steam ceases; but 
in the case of water, the circulation is ~ept wp until the water in 
the boiler falls to the same temperature as that in the pipes. 
Hence the temperature of the house is kept from falling below 
60°, not only until all the water in the pipes, and the pipes 
themselves, have fallen to this point, but until all the water in 
the boiler, and the boiler itself, has reached the same tempera- 
ture. From these observations it will be seen that a house heated 
with hot water will maintain its temperature six times as long as 
one heated by steam. F 

Again, in order to heat a building by steam, the pipes must 
be above the temperature of 212°, and as we advance above this 
point we soon reach such a degree of heat as we have already 
described as being. prejudicial to that- purity of atmosphere so 
essential to animal and vegetable life and health 


BOILERS AND PIPES. 


The efficiency of a boiler depends upon the quantity of sur- 
face exposed to the fire, and that should be in proportion to the 
amount of water contained in the boiler and pipes A boiler 
which has a surface of seven square feet exposed to the fire 
will heat four hundred feet of four-inch pipe sufficiently for 
practical purposes. It is better that the boiler should have a 
capacity above the proportion of the pipes than below, for though 
the circulation will be slower, the temperature can be maintained. 
at the desired point with a less consumption of fuel. The best 
materia] for these boilers is cast iron ; they last longer than those 


\ 


148 CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 


made of malleable iron, because they are not as rapidly consumed 
by rust, and are usually less expensive in the first instance. 

Experiments very carefully made by competent men have 
settled the fact that more heat will be given out by four-inch 
pipes, in proportion to the consumption of fuel, than by pipes 
of any other size. In laying down the pipes, they should never be 
rastened, but every facility should be given to them for motion 
lengthwise, by laying them on pieces of rod iron placed occasion- 
ally under them and upon the support upon which they rest. 
The linear expansion of cast iron is nearly equal to one inch 
and three-eighths in every hundred feet, when the temperature is 
raised from 32° to 212°; and unless every freedom is given for 
the motion caused by this alternate expansion and contraction, 
the joints will very likely become loose and leaky. 

In heating the vinery it is always desirable to economise as 
much heat as possible, hence it is well to run the smoke flue the 
entire length of the house, which may be done in a “lean-to” by 
running it along the back wall. 


BORDERS FOR THE VINES. 


If it be designed to force the vines for early fruit, it will be 
essential, in our climate, that they should be confined to an in- 
side border. It is impossible to maintain anything like a cor- 
responding degree of temperature between the root and the 
branches, if the roots are permitted to run in an outside border, 
and unless this is measurably maintained it is impossible to pro- 
duce good grapes. But in cool graperies the borders may be 
open, and the vines allowed to ramble outside as well as inside. 

In preparing the borders, if the subsoil be a retentive clay, 
and, as is usually the case, cold and wet, it is necessary to pro 
vide perfect drainage. To do this thoroughly, the whole of the 
soil of the size of the intended border, and to a depth of three 
feet, should be thrown out, and the bottom made to slope gradu- 
ally to the front, with a fall of one inch to the foot, and along 
the front of the border, and just below the edge, a tile drain 


CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 149 


should be laid, with a like slope to carry off promptly all the water 
that runs to the edge of the border. The bottom of the border 
should then be covered with broken stone, or brick rubbish, or 
‘very coarse gravel, and this, if possible, covered with a layer that 
is a little finer, thus gradually increasing the fineness of the mate- 
rial until it approaches that of ordinary soil. This drainage should 
be nine inches deep, and be covered all over-with an inverted sod. 

The best soil with which to fill up the border is that taken 
from the surface of an old pasture, where the grass is fine and 
thick, paring off the sod to a depth of three inches—if abound- 
ing in calcareous matter, so much the better. Old grape growers 
say it should be composed of 65 per cent. of sand, 30 per cent. 
of clay, and 5 per cent. of chalk, with plenty of vegetable fibre, 
that is, roots of grass. But beware of decaying wood; every bit 
of this will be filled with spores of fungi, that will be certain to 
injure, and very probably destroy the vines. This sod and soil 
from the pasture should be stacked under cover for say six 
months, until the grass is dead and the whole mass dry ; then 
broken up and mixed with lime rubbish, old plaster, if possible 
in the proportion of ten loads of loam to two of lime rubbish, 
one of charcoal, and two of fresh fermenting horse manure, 
and four hundred weight of coarse, broken bones. This. 
should be thoroughly turned over several times, that it may 
be well intermingled, turning it, if possible, in frosty weather. 
If the soil be too strong in clay it may be improved by adding 
sand. If the soil be deficient in clay, increase the quantity of 
bones and horse droppings. Horn shavings are an excellent 
substitute for bones, or may be used with them. Calcined oyster 
shells are also useful, if they can be had. While preparing this 
compost for the vine border it should be kept dry. 

The width of the border in the forcing house should be the 
entire width of the house, and the foundation laid up with stone 
or brick along the entire front, to the depth of the bottom of the 
border, so that the roots of the vines can have no opportunity of 
straying into the outer soil. In the span-roofed vinery the border 


150 CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 


should occupy not only the whole interior of the house, but a 
space on each side, equal, at least, to one-half the width of the 
house. It is advisable not to make the whole width of the 
border at the time the vines are planted, but in the forcing 
house make about eight feet in width along the front, or in the 
cool vinery make five or six feet inside and as much outside, along 
each side. This will afford sufficient room for the roots of the 
vines for the first year. The second year, add three feet to the 
inside border, or, if a cool vinery, add three feet inside and as 
much outside to each border, and at or about this rate every year 
until the whole width of the border is made up. If added as 
wanted, it will be sweeter and better than if it be all put down 
at once. The border in the vinery should be filled in so that the 
surface shall be from six inches to a foot above the surface of the 
soil outside. Allowance must be made for the settling of the 
soil, which will be about six inches. 

The borders having been made, and everything ready for 
planting, the vines, which have been grown in pots, should have 
the soil well shaken out from the roots, the roots carefully disen- 
tangled, and any decayed portions cut off, then carefully and evenly 
spread out, and covered with the finely pulverized soil to the 
depth of four or five inches. The earth should be setiled by 
watering moderately with tepid water, through a fine rose. 
When planted, the vines should be cut down to two buds. When 
these have got nicely started, rub off the weaker bud, and train 
the other under the rafter by tying it to the wires. During the 
first season, allow it to grow without any pruning or pinching 
whatever, carefully preserving every leaf it may form and every 
lateral that it may throw out. As the season advances, gradually 
give more air, so that by the middle of August the ventilators 
may be left open night and day. In this way a good healthy 
vine will be secured, with an abundance of roots, and with well 
ripened wood. 

The second year’s treatment begins with the cutting back of 
the canes in November, to within a foot of the bottom of the 


CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 151 


rafter. When this has been done, the inside of the vinery 
should be most thoroughly washed, and the vines painted with 
a paint composed of 2 oz. of soft soap, 2 oz. of flowers of sulphur, 
one gill of tobacco-water, and. 4 oz. of nux vomica, mixed thor- 
oughly in two quarts of water, to which enough dry clay, or 
slaked lime is added to bring the whole to a consistency of thick 
paint. This will destroy red spider and other insects that may 

‘be on them. The vines should then be laid down and covered 
with dry leaves, to protect them from frost. If it is desired.to 
have ripe grapes about the first of July, fires should be started 
about the first of February, the vines uncovered, and, after the 
eyes are all evenly broken, tied to the wires. 

As soon as the fires are started, the canes should be syringed 
with tepid water twice a day until the buds burst, and then all 
syringing of the vines should cease until they have fully ex- 
panded their first leaf. The temperature on starting should be 
between 40° and 45° at night, rising to 55° or 60° during the 
day. As soon as the buds are burst the heat may be increased 
at night to 45° or 50°, and so gradually increase the night heat 
a little, so that by the time the first leaves are wholly expanded 
the night temperature may be as high as 50°, running up in the 
day to 10° or 15° higher. The atmosphere should be kept suf- 
ficiently moist by placing metallic trays, containing water, on the 
pipes, and by sprinkling the border and paths, but never by 
syringing’ the pipes when they are hot. This year, the lateral 
shoots that start from the growing wood should be pinched at 
one leaf from the main cane, and those from last year’s wood 
stopped at the fifth joiht, and all the fruit taken off except one 
bunch, or, at most, two, if they are small. When the leading 
cane has reached two-thirds of the length of the rafter it may be 
stopped, and when it starts again, stopped once more, after it has 
made two more joints, repeating this process until growth ceases. 
The laterals, must also be stopped every time they start, after 
making one joint more beyond the last stop. Air should be given 
more and more freely as the season advances, so that the wood 


152 CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 


may ripen well and naturally. After the leaves fall, the laterals 
should be cut off to the main cane, and the main vine cut back 
to six feet from the bottom of the rafter, all loose bark on the old 
wood removed, the cane washed with tepid water and a little 
soap, and painted with the mixture already mentioned. Wash 
all the walls of the vinery with hot lime whitewash, with a little 
sulphur stirred in it, and clean all the wood-work and glass tho- 
roughly, especially all the nooks, corners and crannies, with 
plenty of soap and water. Lay down the vines, and cover well 
with leaves as before. Sometimes the mice get into the house, 
and finding the leaves an excellent place of concealment, take up 
their abode in them, and eat the bark of the vines. It is for the 
purpose of putting a stop to such mischief that the nux vomica 
is put into the paint. Perhaps a better way is to twist tightly 
some small straw ropes, and wind these securely around the 
whole of each vine, from the ground to the top, completely 
encasing each, and then laying them down along the front of 
the house. The mice will not gnaw through the straw rope. 

In the third year the fires will be again started about the first 
of February, the covering removed from the vines, the vines well 
syringed twice a day with tepid water until the buds burst. As 
soon as it can be seen that two shoots are starting from one eye, 
rub off the weaker, and discontinue the syringing of the vine 
until the first leaf is fully expanded. The requisite moisture 
should be maintained by the trays of water on the pipes and 
sprinkling the floov. 

As soon as the bunches can be discerned, the heat of the 
house, which has been maintained at from 45° to 50° by night, 
and from 10° to 15° higher by day, should be raised about 
5° higher, and gradually increased, so that by the time the 
shoots have extended three inches in length, the heat will be 
raised to 55° or 60° at night, and from 65° to 75° by day. From 
this point there should be a daily increase of the temperature 
until the vines begin to bloom, when it should have reached a 
night temperature of 65°, and about 15° higher by day for 


CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 153 


’ 
a 


Black Hamburghs, and all the free-setting class. In the case of 
Muscats, the heat should be 10° greater both night and day. 
Lessen the amount of moisture while the vines are in bloom, and 
if the vines are occasionally jarred at this time, so as to fill the 
house with the pollen, the effect will be beneficial. In this way 
a good set of fruit will be secured, even on the Muscat vines. 
As soon as the fruit is set, the heat should be gradually allowed 
to decrease to 65° at night, rising to 75° or 80° by day with fire 
heat, and up to 85° or 90° with the sun. Also, as soon as the 
fruit is set, the house should be again supplied with moisture, 
and the vines well syringed daily. 

There will doubtless be more fruit set than the vines can be 
allowed to bear. The best practice is to take off all the bunches . 
on a shoot but one, and stop the lateral on which it grows two 
leaves or joints beyond the bunch, and pinch in all sub-laterals, 
(that is, laterals growing out of the lateral shoot), at the first 
joint, and to re-pinch these as often as they start again without 
leaving any additional joint. There will probably be still too 
many bunches of Grapes remaining, and these should be re- 
duced to eight or ten bunches for each vine, always leaving the 
largest and best. The leading shoot from the main cane should 
not be allowed to bear any fruit. 

The berries also will require thinning out. In the case of 
the free-setting varieties, this should be done as early as pos- 
sible after the Grapes are set; in the Muscats it is better to wait 
until it can be seén which of the berries are properly set and 
taking the lead. Care must be taken not in any way to injure 
the remaining berries. There are Grape scissors made on purpose 
for this work, which will enable the operator with a little practice 
to thin out the berries readily and safely,.and without injury to 
those that remain. Handle the fruit as little as possible. The 
object of this thinning is to give room to each berry to swell per- 
fectly without being jammed, and yet so that, when ripe, the 
bunch shall be compact. 

Air must be supplied in sufficient quantity to keep the foliage 


154 CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 


healthy and thick, and there will be no difficulty ix doing this 
by means of the fresh air ventilator shown at fig. 48, which may 
be kept more or less open night and day, and in all weathers. 
Advantage may also be taken of the opportunity for diffusing 
ammonia through the house, by dissolving the sulphate or the 
carbonate of ammonia in the water trays on the pipes. This will 
have a tendency to thicken the leaves, and strengthen the whole 
plant. Yet this may be done to excess, and then, instead of a 
benefit, becomes a positive injury. A little guano, or pigeon’s 
dung, or the dung of common barn-yard fowls, may be used in- 
stead of the salts of ammonia. 

In watering the inside border, if the bottom drainage be what 
it should, give it always a thorough drenching, not a mere surface 
watering. Use soft, tepid water, soaking it thoroughly when 
the vines are started, and afterwards as occasion requires. Be 
careful not to tread on the border when newly watered. When 
the berries begin to color, increase the supply of air, night and 
day, and stop syringing the vines. Lessening the moisture 
will increase the flavor of the Grapes, but beware of the red 
spider, for with such power as the sun has in this climate, 
it is very easy to withhold moisture so much as to create a worse 
evil. When the Grapes are all cut, give the vines a thorough 
syringing with tepid water, and clean the foliage from all insects 
and dust. Keep the inside border dry enough to prevent the 
vines from starting into growth: 

After the foliage is ripe and ‘fallen, the laterals which have 
borne fruit must be cut back to one eye, those upon the growing 
cane cut back to the main vine, the main cane cut in to twelve 
feet in length, the vine washed and painted, the house most 
thoroughly cleansed, and the vines protected and laid down for 
winter. 

When, in course of time, the spurs become too ‘large and un- 
sightly, a new cane may be grown by cutting down one of the 
vines every year and leading up a new shoot. If but one or two 
vines are cut back in each year, the whole vinery will be gradu- 
ally renewed without materially lessening the supply of grapes. 


CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 155 


DISEASES OF VINES. 


SHanKine.—This formidable disease has been a fruitful 
theme of conjecture, and many reasons have been assigned for its 
cause, and as many remedies propounded. It makes its appear- 
ance just as the grapes are changing from their acid to their 
saccharine state, arrests this transformation, the berry remaining — 
acid, and becoming in a short time shrivelled. The litile stem 
or shank, which attaches the berry to the bunch, decays, which 
is all the functional derangement apparent to the eye, hence the 
term shanking, applied to the disease. 

It is probable that several causes may combine in the pro- 
duction of this disease; prominent among these are over-cropping, 
injury to the foliage by red spider, or other cause, the roots 
of the vine having penetrated into a cold, wet subsoil, or the 
roots having made a late, succulent growth, by reason of the 
border being too rich and damp, and perhaps too plentifully sup- 
plied with manure water. These causes may not all exist at any 
one time, but some one or more of them will be found to have 
just so far enfeebled the vine as to make its loss of vigor apparent 
in this way, when in nothing else does it seem to manifest any 
lack of healthy action. The trouble is thought by the ablest 
gardeners to be owing to the want of weil ripened, fine and 
woody roots at the time when winter sets in, roots that are 
ripened to their extremest points. Ifinstead of being thus ripened, 
they are from any cause coarse and soft, with a spongy texture, 
when winter sets in, all these spongy fibres will die and decay 
during the winter, back to the main stem roots, from which they 
issued. When the vines start to grow again the main roots 
throw out young fibrous rootlets to supply their place ; but these 
are unable to supply the vine with sufficient nutriment to sup- 
port both the requisite wood and fruit, hence the shanking of 
the fruit, while the other functions of the vine seem to be per- 
formed in a healthy manner. If it be certain that the shanking, 


156 CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 


when it appears, is not due to over-cropping, or injury to the 
foliage, nor to the roots having penetrated into the cold subsoil ; 
and it should be remembered that these causes existing during 
the previous year, may be the occasion of imperfectly ripened 
roots, whose death during the past winter is now being felt in 
the shanking of the grapes; but that it is possible that it ix 
owing to the border being too heavy, damp, and rich, the only 
remedy is to raise the roots, remove a portion of the border, anc 
replace with compost in which there is a larger amount of lime 
rubbish, calcined oyster shells, and coarse bone, say double the 
quantity previously recommended, with only half the amount. of 
dung. In this poorer and more porous border the roots will be 
more numerous, finer, and more woody, ripening well before 
autumn, and will survive the winter in a perfectly sound con- 
dition. It is easier to give one or two good waterings with 
liquid manure during the growing season, to supply the requisite 
nourishment, than to do without the healthy roots through which 
it is taken up into the circulation. 

Rust on Grapes is believed to be caused by the application 
of sulphur to the hot pipes while the Grapes are yet young, and 
that this may be wholly avoided if sulphur be not used in this 
way until the Grapes have been set some time, and the skin be- 
come less tender and sensitive. The thick-skinned Grapes, such 
as the Muscats, are less liable to injury in this way. It is re- 
commended by able Grape growers to paint the pipes with sul- 
phur mixed with milk and water as soon as the red spider makes 
its appearance, which it will do in the hottest part of the house 
first, and repeat this painting once a week. It is considered the 
real specific for this great pest; yct, where the atmosphere of the 
house is kept at the proper moisture, and never allowed to get 
too dry, and the house properly cleansed every year, there is 
much less danger of its becoming troublesome. It will be seen, 
however, from what has been said on the subject of Rust, care 
must be used, lest in killing the red spider with sulphur, you 
injure the Grapes with Rust. 


CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 157 


Mitpew of the vine has been a serious source of loss and dis- 
appointment. Strictly it is nota disease, but a parasitic, fungoid 
plant, which, under certain favoring’ conditions grows upon and 
derives its sustenance from the tissues of the vine. By its growth 
the further growth of the vine is arrested, and if sufficiently 
abundant the crop of fruit is lost, and the vine itself seriously 
and sometimes fatally injured. It is most likely to make its ap- 
pearance in hot, dry weather, particularly if a draught of air be 
allowed through the house. By keeping the top ventilators open, 
and not suffering any draughts, the mildew may be wholly pre- 
vented. Little injury need be apprehended from it after the 
Grapes are once well colored. 

There sometimes forms on the lower surface of the leaves a 
collection of little green warts. They are caused by a close, 
warm atmosphere, saturated with moisture, and can be prevented 
by maintaining a free circulation of air, moderately charged with 
moisture. 

AiR-RooTs on the vine are caused either by the atmosphere 
of the house being kept too moist, or because the border is too 
cold, or by both these causes acting together. When the natural 
roots are in a border that in texture, temperature and moisture 
is congenial to their growth, and the atmosphere of the vinery 
what it ought to be, there will be few air-roots. 

Asarule, one pound of grapes to every two superficial feet 
of glass is a fair crop, yet a sound discretion must bé exercised 
in the amount of crop, which should be proportioned to the vigor 
of the vines. 


SELECTION OF VINES. 


For a person who does not wish to force early grapes, but 
confines himself to a single cool grapery, the following selection 
will be found suitable, and at the same time give him a succession ; 

5 Black Hamburgh. 

2 Muscat Hamburgh. 

1 Royal sina 


158 CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 


1 Chasselas Musque. 

1 Buckland Sweet Water. 

1 Golden Champion. 

For early forcing, the following will be the most desirable 
and suitable sorts : 

3 Black Hamburgh. 

3 Muscat Hamburgh 

2 Bowood Muscat. 

1 Grizzly Frontignan. 

1 White Frontignan. 

1 Chasselas Musque. 


FRUITING VINES IN POTS. 


It is sometimes desirable to ripen a few grapes in pots. It 
can be done while the permanent vines are becoming established 
in their borders, preparatory to their first crop of fruit. They 
are often wanted for dinner table decoration,—and what can give 
the table a more charming appearance, in combination with 
flowers, than a vine laden with its tempting purple clusters! 
The following hints are intended to help those who are desirous 
of making the experiment. 

It is of the first importance to obtain strong, healthy, well 
ripened, one year old vines, that have been well grown in eight- 
inch pots. These should be procured about the first of April. 
As soon as they are received, the ball of earth containing the roots 
should be well soaked with tepid water. They should then be 
potted in eleven-inch pots, first carefully loosening and spreading 
what root-fibres can be readily set free without breaking the ball 
to pieces, yet reducing the size of it by removing the loose soil 
at the top, and what may crumble off in liberating the ends of the 
roots. Some soil for potting them should have been provided 
similar to that used for the borders. The hole at the bottom of 
the pot should be covered with a potsherd, and the bottom filled, 
to the depth of at least two inches, with broken fragments of 
pots, or with small pieces of charcoal, or with half-inch ground 


CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE UNDER GLASS. 159 


bones. Over these should be spread a little moss to prevent the 
soil from being washed into the drainage. Upon the moss place 
about two inches of the coarser portion of the soil, and then 
proceed to plant the vine in the pot, pressing the soil in quite 
firmly around the roots and the ball in which they are contained. 
Fill the soil in the pot to about an inch from the brim. If the 
soil is not pressed down quite firmly in potting the vine, the 
water will soak through the loose, porous soil around the ball, 
without sufficiently wetting the ball and the roots it contains. 
Therefore pot firmly. Cut the vine back to three buds, and 
syringe with tepid water until they begin to break, and then 
suspend the syringing of them until the first leaf is fully ex- 
panded, and treat them in the same manner as the vines in the 
border. When the buds have started, select the strongest and 
rub off the others. It will be found a convenient arrangement 
to set the pots along the front of the vinery, as near the glass as 
possible, put a stick in the pot, and as the vine grows, tie it up 
until it reaches the wires, and then it can be trained to the wires 
in the same manner as the vines in the border. When the 
laterals start out, pinch them in beyond the first leaf, and repeat 
the pinching as often as a leaf is formed, leaving one new leaf at 
each pinching. When the main cane has attained a length of 
eight or nine feet, cut it back to six or seven feet. This will 
probably cause the laterals to start with more vigor, and they 
will require attention to keep them pinched in to their proper 
limits. When they have become brown at the base for a couple 
of inches, thus showing a ripening of the wood, they should be 
cut off down to the bud at their base. 

During the growth of the vine, and up to the time of cutting 
off the laterals, the vines should be watered twice a week with 
manure water, commencing with a very weak solution at first, 
and gradually increasing the strength with the increased strength 
of the vine. But when the laterals are cut off, then cease the 
manure water altogether, and lessen also the amount of water 
given, gradually diminishing the waterings so as to ripen the 


160 THE BLACKBERRY. 


wood thoroughly, yet not withholding water so as at any time to 
cause the leaves to flag. Copious waterings are very apt to cause 
the vine to start into a second growth, which must be avoided. 

When the vine is full ripened, the pot should be plunged 
into the border in some spot where it will not interfere with the 
roots of the vines growing there, inserting the pot to a depth of 
six inches below the surface. The cane should be cut down and 
covered with some bits of old carpeting, or, if preferred, may be 
wound with straw. 

In the spring, when the vines in the border are started, those 
in the pots should be taken out of the border and cut back to 
five feet in length, and the canes bent over and syringed, and 
treated in all respects as the other vines in the vinery. When 
the buds are all evenly broken, the cane should be tied to the 
stake in the pot, in an upright position, the shoots pinched in, 
leaving one leaf beyond the last bunch of fruit, and kept pinched 
‘in each time it starts. Water with manure-water twice a week, 
as was done last year, beginning with a weak preparation, and 
increasing in stength until the fruit is well colored. Only one 
bunch of grapes should be left on each shoot, and not more than 
five pounds on the vine. 

The Black Hamburgh is the. best variety for pot culture, and 
we advise amateurs to confine themselves to this alone until they 
have had some experience, and attained some skill in the man- 
agement of pot vines, and then they may try their hand on such 
other sorts as they wish, with much greater probabilities of suc- 
cess. 


THE BLACKBERRY. 


But little attention has been paid to the cultivation of this 
fruit within the Dominion. The first variety that was sent out, 
known as the New Rochelle or Lawton, proved to be too tender 
to endure our climate, and the later introductions have not been 
very widely disseminated. 

A deep, dry and rich soil is most favorable to the growth of 


THE BLACKBERRY. 161 


4 


this plant. The canes should be planted in rows eight feet apart 
and three feet apart in the row. If the growing canes are pinched 
back in the month of August, they will become stocky, ripen 
their wood better, and yield more and better fruit, than if left 
to grow unchecked. The old canes which have borne fruit 
should be cut out close to the ground as soon as the fruit is 
gathered, and if there be a superabundance of young shoots, they 
should be removed at the same time. A pair of shears with long 
handles, or a pruning hook with a long handle, will be found 
convenient implements for this work. All suckers that eome 
up between the rows should be cut up as weeds. 

The cultivation consists in keeping the ground mellow and 
free from weeds, and in such an annual manuring with well- 
rotted barnyard manure as will be sufficient to keep the ground in 
a good state of fertility. Too much manure at one time induces 
a too luxuriant growth of the cane, resulting in unripened wood 
that is apt to suffer from the frosts of winter. If the plants 
have not been properly pinched during the season of growth, 
they will require to be pruned back in spring to a height of about 
four feet, and the lateral branches to about sixteen inches. 

The Blackberry is multiplied by transplanting the suckers, 
and by planting cuttings of the roots. When the variety is 
scarce, and it is desired to multiply by as small divisions as pos- 
sible, it will be found advantageous to prepare a hotbed and plant 
the root cuttings on a gentle bottom heat. 

The following varieties seem worthy of attention. Others 
are being brought to notice, but have not yet been sufficiently 
tested to speak with confidence of their merits. - Could some one 
invent a Blackberry without thorns, yet as productive as those 
having thorns, and yielding fruit of as fine size and quality, he 
would deserve the lasting gratitude of every lover of this berry. 

Tae Kirratinny.—This variety has the reputation of being 
very hardy, and so far as it has been tried seems to have given 
good satisfaction. The berries are large, slightly conical, and of 
a deep shining black, sweet, and with a rich, pleasant Blackberry 


162 THE STRAWBERRY. 


flavor. The plant grows vigorously and bears abundantly, con- 
tinuing to ripen its fruit for four or five weeks. 

Wuson’s Earty.—This variety ripens early, and perfects its 
entire crop in about two weeks. It seems to partake of the 
character of the Dewberry, the canes occasionally taking root at 
the tips. The fruit is very large, slightly pointed, deep black, 
and quite firm. 

This variety was distributed by the Fruit Growers’ Associ- 
ation of Ontario to all its members in the spring of 1871, so that 
its adaptedness to the climate of that Province will soon be 
thoroughly tested. 

New Rocuetie.—Lawton.—The climate is too severe for this 
variety anywhere beyond the Peach region. Within that limit 
it grows well, and bears very large crops. The berries are very 
large, deep black when fully ripe, and then it is soft, juicy, sweet, 
and of pleasant flavor, but if gathered too soon, when it first be- 
gins to get black, it is very sour and flavorless. Begins to ripen 
early in August and continues for five or six weeks. 


THE STRAWBERRY. 


Strawberry plants do not always produce perfect flowers. 
Some varieties produce flowers having only pistils and no sta- 
mens, these are called pistillate sorts; others produce flowers 
with both stamens and pistils, these are called hermaphrodite. 
In some of the hermaphrodite varieties the number of stamens 
is so few, or the development so imperfect, that there is not 
sufficient pollen to fertilize all the seed vessels. When from 
any cause there is no pollen to fall on the pistils, and thus 
to give vitality to the seed germ, then the receptacle or berry 
is not developed at all, and no strawberries are produced, 
When there is not enough pollen to give a grain to each pistil, 
then the seed germ at the base of that pistil is not vitalized, 
and the portion of the berry forming the receptacle of that 
particular seed does not grow to its proper size or attain its 
true character, and when any considerable number of them 


THE STRAWBERRY. 163 


are not fertilized, the berry becomes deformed and mis-shapen. 
The Hovey’s Seedling is an instance of a pistillate variety, one 
in which the stamens are wholly wanting; Russell’s Prolific is 
an instance of one in which the stamens are defective, being 
too few or too imperfectly developed to thoroughly fertilize the 
fruit; while the Wilson produces a perfect flower with a sufii- 
ciency of well-developed stamens. 

The following figure is a representation of a uss flower, 
showing the stamens, with the 
anthers on their extremities, ar- 
ranged in a circle around the re- 
ceptacle or berry, which is studded 
all over with slender hair-like 
pistils. Varieties which produce 
such flowers have an abundance 
of pollen, much more than enough 
to supply every pistil with the 
requisite fertilizing agent. Hence 
such varieties always have per- 
fectly formed fruit, and if the Fi. 49. 
plant produces an abundance of flowers theve will be an abun- 
dance of fruit. 

Fig. 50 represents a pistillate flower. It will be at once seen 
that there are no stamens, and consequently no anthers, 
arranged around the berry, though 
there are plenty of pistils bristling 
over its surface. Unless these 
pistils receive pollen from some 
other strawberry flower, there can 
be no vitalizing of the seed germ, 
and, in consequence, no swelling 
and growth of the receptacle, or, 
in other words, no berries, If, 
then, the garden be planted only 
with Hovey’s Seedling, or any 
other merely pistillate sort, there 


164 THE STRAWBERRY. 


will be no fruit; but if there be planted near them some of the 
Wilson, or any other sort having an abundance of stamens, 
there will be fruit on the pistillate as well as the staminate sort, 
provided both are in bloom at the same time, so that the pollen 
may fertilize them. Hence it will be seen that in planting 
strawberries attention must be given to the character of the 
flowers, else there may be a fine growth of plants, and an 
abundance of blossoms, but no fruit. 

The son for strawberry plants should be deep, well pulverized 
and rich, A deep strong loam is the soil best suited to all 
varieties; but any soil that is well drained, well pulverized to a 
depth of sixteen inches, and well enriched, will make a good 
strawberry bed. There are some varieties that yield their finest 
fruit, and in greatest quantity, in a clay soil. Of this class are 
Triomphe de Gand and Jucunda, but they can be made to yield 
very fine fruit on sandy soil that is highly supplied with 
fertilizers. It has been said that it is possible to injure the 
strawberry crop by too high manuring, the plants growing 
vigorously, but running to vine and not to fruit. Such is not 
our experience. We have applied well decomposed manure in 
great quantities to all the leading varieties, and have found the 
fruit to be increased in proportion to the increased growth of 
the plant. Much has been written concerning special fertilizers 
for the strawberry, and great stress laid upon the use of tan- 
bark and other substances, but the best special. manure we have 
found has been that from the barn-yard. It should be remem- 
bered that thorough cultivation and high manuring are the 
secrets of success in the cultivation of the strawberry, and that 
a much larger return will be obtained from one quarter of an 
acre that has been thoroughly prepared by deep subsoil plowing, 
cross plowing, thorough pulverization and abundant manuring, 
than from a whole acre that is skimmed over and half manured. 
We are fully persuaded that our strawberry growers generally 
err in planting too much land, and that they would find their 
profits much increased if they would lessen their acreage and 
double the cultivation and enriching of that which remains. 


THE STRAWBERRY. 165 


We have found the early spring to be the best Tim for set- 
ting strawberry plants. When but a small bed is to be planted, 
and the plants are near at hand, they may be set at any time by 
taking suitable pains, and selecting suitable weather ; but when 
any large quantity is to be planted, there is danger that there 
will be a great many failures in fall planting, unless the weather 
is unusually favorable in September. If set later than Septem- 
ber, there is great danger that the plants will not become suffi- 
ciently rooted before winter sets in to enable them to pass that 
trying season safely. In those parts of the country where the 
snow does not lie on the ground all winter, and consequently can 
not to be relied upon as a protection to the plants, it is very 
desirable that they should be lightly covered with branches of 
evergreens, leaves, or straw. This protects the crowns of the 
plants, in which the fruit buds are enveloped, from the frequent 
alternate freezing and thawing to which they might be otherwise 
subjected, and which often kills the fruit buds before spring. 

The best puants for setting out are strong, well-rooted run- 
ners. Theorists would have us believe that the first plant that 
forms on each runner is better and more productive than the 
subsequent plants on the same runner; but this is mere theory, 
without foundation in fact. Provided the plants be well rooted, 
the last one on the runner is as good and as productive as the 
first, under the same treatment. In field culture it is found con- 
venient to set the plants in rows, three feet apart, so that they 
may be tilled with a horse and cultivator, and the plants one 
foot apart in the row. These should be carefully tilled with 
cultivator and hoe during the first season, and until the berries 
are beginning to swell in the second. After the fruit has been 
gathered, the ground should be mellowed up, the weeds destroyed, 
and the plantation tilled until the fruit begins again to swell in 
the third seascn. This crop of fruit should be the last, and after 
it_is gathered the plantation should be ploughed up and devoted 
to some other crops for a few years before strawberries are again 
planted. 


166 THE STRAWBERRY. 


A good method of Preparine the ground for a strawberry plan- 
tation is to seed it down with clover. During the winter give 
the clover a good heavy top dressing of ashes. “When the clover 
comes into bloom the next summer, plough it all under, using a 
chain, if necessary, in order to cover it. In the fall cross plough, 
following the plough with the subsoiler. In the spring put on all 
the manure from the barnyard that can be had, plough it under 
by crossing the last furrows, and again follow with the subsoiler. 
Now sow with carrots or mangolds, and keep them clean. In 
the fall, if the soil be clayey, plough again, and leave the ground 
rough during the winter. In the spring, put on all the old, fine, 
thoroughly decomposed manure, that has been provided, together 
with any fine ground bones there are to spare, and harrow it 
in with a two-horse cultivator, run as deep as possible. Finish 
by pulverizing well with the harrow, and then set the strawberry 
plants. Ground that has been prepared in this way is much 
easier kept clean, and will produce healthier plants and larger 
berries, and more of them, than any slip-shod style of cultiva- 
tion. 

In garden cultivation, the ground may be laid off in beds, 
and the plants set in rows two feet apart, and one foot apart in 
the row. After taking two crops of fruit, it will be found a sav- 
ing of labor to spade the plants under, and rely upon another 
bed, which was set out in April previous, in preference to keep- 
ing the old bed clean. 

A good supply of morsturE during the time that the fruit is 
swelling and ripening, is a very essential thing in successful 
strawberry culture. In many parts of the country we are liable 
to have dry weather during a great part of June, just when the 
strawberry needs a great deal of moisture. In order to lessen 
the evils of this dry spell, recourse should be had to mulching, 
and as it can not yet be quite certainly foretold what the weather 
is to be, the mulch should be put on about the first of June. 
The most convenient and best mulch that can be applied is short 
grass, cut from the lawn or meadow. This will scatter no seeds, 


THE STRAWBERRY. 167 


will keep the fruit from the dirt, and will, in many seasons, 
double the value of the crop. 

Strawberry plants are very easily raised from seed. The fruit 
should be gathered when it is fully ripe, and crushed with dry 
sand enough to separate the seeds from each other, and then 
sown, sand and all, on the surface of a bed, prepared by thorough 
pulverizing and abundant manuring with old compost. If kept — 
shaded from the direct rays of the sun, and kept moist by gentle 
waterings, with a fine rose, every day, the seed will germinate 
and the plants appear in about six weeks. After these have 
made four or five leaves they may be pricked out into another 
bed, where they will have room to grow. It is well to protect 
them with a covering of a few leaves during the winter. The 
first year of fruiting they are very likely to make great promises, 
which they never afterwards keep, so that too much reliance must 
not be placed on the appearance of the first fruiting. 

The Alpine varieties should always be propagated from seed, 
for the reason that the berries are always much finer from young 
seedlings than from old plants, or from the runners of those 
Alpines that throw out runners. Some of the Alpines are what 
are termed bush plants ; they never produce runners, and must 
be multiplied either by division of the old plant or by seed. 
Some of the Alpines are monthly fruiters, and, in cool, moist 
seasons especially, if growing in a generous soil, they will bear 
fruit continuously, from June to November. The Mexican ever- 
bearing, which was introduced to public notice with a great 
flourish of trumpets, as being something quite extraordinary, is 
an instance of a monthly Alpine variety. 


VARIETIES OF STRAWBERRIES. 


The name of these is legion, and it would be a very profit- 
less waste of time to endeavour to describe a hundredth part. 
Very few varieties succeed well over a large territory in all soils 
and climates; many are extremely fastidious, and never do well 
beyond the spot that gave them birth. Therefore it is wise 


168 THE STRAWBERRY. 


to. buy new varieties sparingly, and rely for the supply upon 
well-known and long-tested sorts. The following descriptions 
will be confined mainly to those sorts which are now prominently 
before the public, and will give as concisely as possible the 
prominent characters of each. 

AgricuLturist.—On sandy soils it is almost worthless, requir- 
ing altogether too much coaxing and petting to get a fair crop of 
fruit. On some clay loams, with high culture, it gives a good 
crop of large, conical berries with long necks, of light crimson 
color, sweet and rich. Pistillate. 

Austin.—Shaker.—A large berry, soft, white flesh, very 
acid, and having very little flavor. 

Boston Pivz.—Bartlett.—Is tolerably productive in some 
rich and deep soils, if grown in hills and the runners kept off. 
It has the merit of being of excellent flavour, and of ripening 
early. The berries are above medium size, light crimson, sweet 
and rich. Hermaphrodite. 

Cuartes Downine.—This variety is attracting considerable 
attention, and has the reputation of being very productive, with 
very large deep scarlet berries, which are sweet, juicy and rich. 
Hermaphrodite. We have not fully tested its merits. 

Conrax.—Not worth growing. Berries small, soft, and sour. 
Very productive. 

Doctor Nicaisz.—With high culture, the berries are often 
immense ; but they are too few to make it a very desirable 
variety. The berries are usually of a cock’s-comb shape, scarlet, 
juicy, sweet, but not high flavored. Hermaphrodite. 

GoLDEN QuEEN.—An old variety with a new name. It is 
Trollope’s Victoria. It was first brought to our notice by an 
itinerant pedlar, who had a basket of the fruit, and was soliciting 
orders for it as something new. 

GREEN Protiric.—A very large and a very sour berry, with- 
out flavor, but the plant is very vigorous and productive. 

Hovey’s Srepiine.—This has been a very popular sort, and 
did a great deal to awaken attention to the cultivation of the 


THE STRAWBERRY. 169 


strawberry. The plants are hardy and vigorous, yielding mode- 
rate crops of large and finely flavored fruit. It isa pistillate 
sort, hence it can not be fruited without planting some pollen- 
bearing sorts near by. 

Jucunpa.—In some localities this variety succeeds very well, 
while in many other places it is almost a total failure. It prefers 
a strong soil, and succeeds best grown in hills, with the runners 
cut off. The berries are large, light scarlet in color, with 
moderately firm flesh, and not very high flavor. Hermaphrodite. 

La Constantr.—This is another of those fastidious sorts, 
‘that, in a few localities, bears good crops of fruit, but that on the 
whole seems to suffer from our hot summers, and to prove very 
often quite unsatisfactory. It is a large, bright crimson berry, 
with a firm flesh, of a rich and delicious quality. Hermaphro- 
dite. 

Lavizes’ Purs.—This originated with W. H. Read, of Port 

Dalhousie, Ont., and is one of the most delicious of strawberries. 
Unfortunately it is too unproductive to retain a place in our 
gardens. Pistillate. 
- Lenyie’s Wartn.— White Pine apple.—Albion White.— 
Another very finely-flavoured strawberry, but a very moderate 
cropper. The best white variety in cultivation. The berry is 
large, white slightly tinged with pink, soft, juicy, sweet and 
rich, with a very decided pine-apple flavor. Hermaphrodite. 

Napotzon III.—This variety appears to be both vigorous 
and productive, yet it has not been sufficiently long in culti- . 
vation here to speak very decidedly of its qualities in these 
respects. The berry is large, light scarlet, tolerably firm, juicy 
and rich. Hermaphrodite. 

Nicanor.—A very productive variety, with a good deal of 
uniformity in the size of the fruit, but hardly large enough to 
please The berries are only of medium size when there is a 
full crop; bright scarlet in color, tolerably firm, rich and of 
pleasant flavour. Hermaphrodite. 

Peax’s Emprror.—We can only say of this that the berries 


170 THE STRAWBERRY. 


are large, dark crimson, firm, with a pleasant, sub-acid flavor. 
Its qualities of vigor and of fruitfulness have not been tested 
in this country. 

PRESIDENT WILDER.—There are two varieties bearing this 
name,—the one originated in Europe, and but very little known 
in America; the other raised by the Hon. Marshall P. Wilder, 
President of the American Pomological Society. The latter 
variety has been very widely disseminated, and we may soon 
hope to see how well it will adapt itself to all soils and 
localities. In the grounds of the originator it is very productive, 
and the berries are large, bright crimson scarlet, sweet and rich. 

Russeit’s Prowiric.—For all practical purposes this variety 
should be treated as pistillate, though there are usually a few 
stamens more or less perfect. We have noticed that it thrives 
best, and the berries are of better flavor, in sandy soils, and 
that if plentifully supplied with pollen there is an enormous 
crop of fruit, which is large, light crimson, soft, and pleasantly 
flavored. 

TRIOMPHE DE Ganp.—So widely has this variety been dis- 
seminated that it is now well known, and has proved itself to 
be better adapted to a great variety of localities than is usual 
with European sorts. It is vigorous and hardy, yielding its 
largest crops and finest berries in clayey soils, with high culture 
in hills and with the runners cut off. Though the flowers are 
hermaphrodite, there is frequently an insufficiency of pollen 
to fertilize all the seed germs, hence the fruit is sometimes mis- 
shapen, and the apex of the berry hard. The berries are large, 
light crimson, firm, bearing carriage well, glossy, pleasant 
flavored but not rich. 

Trottope’s Vicrorta.—Golden Queen.—Trembly’s Union.— 
A large, handsome and excellent English variety, which has 
been a good deal disseminated under one name or the other. 
The plants are vigorous and healthy, but only medium in pro- 
ductiveness. The berries are very large, light crimson, juicy, 
rich, and with a peculiarly pleasant and almost aromatic favour. 
Hermaphrodite. 


THE RASPBERRY. 171 


Witson.—The most widely distributed and most generally 
grown, especially for market, of all the varieties. The plants 
are very hardy, vigorous and exceedingly productive in all 
soils, localities and climates; there is no other sort that has 
been found to adapt itself to all situations so well as this 
one. The berries are large, dark crimson when fully ripe, 
moderately firm, with a sprightly acid flavor. Hermaphrodite 
After producing one or two full crops the plants begin to fail, 
and on this account new beds should be planted frequently. 


THE RASPBERRY. 


The varieties of the Raspberry in cultivation among us are 
derived either from the European or from the Red or Black 
Raspberries of America. Those that derive their origin from the 
European or from the Red American, multiply by suckers which 
come up from the roots, while those that spring from the Black 
Raspberry are increased from the tips of the canes, which, bend- 
ing over until they reach the ground, take root at the ex- 
tremities. 


Fie. 51. 


Fig. 51 represents a plant of the Black variety, with the tips 
of the branches taking root in the soil. 
In the autumn, the suckers may be taken up from the parent 


172 THE RASPBERRY. 


plant with a spade, and those that take root at the tips of tne 
new canes, may be removed by cutting the rooted tips off from 
the parent cane, and liftingthem from the soil. These may be then 
planted out where they are intended to remain, and covered with 
coarse manure to the depth of five or six inches. Treated in this 
way they will make stronger plants during the next season, than 
when set out in the spring. If the transplanting is done in the 
spring, the plants should be mulched to the same depth, as a 
protection to the roots against the heat of summer. 

The Raspberry produces the best and finest fruit in a deep, 
moist, and very rich soil, and whenever these conditions can be 
secured, no difficulty will be experienced on account of the char- 
acter of the soil. But it-will be at once seen that such require- 
ments can not be met in land that is badly drained, or where a 
hard, unbroken subsoil is allowed to lie near to the surface. 
There are places where the ground is naturally underdrained, the 
soil of good depth and great fertility, but these are highly favored 
spots, and most cultivators will find it necessary to prepare the 
ground by deep ploughing, the application of manures, and perhaps 
by underdraining. If water stands in the soil at a depth of 
eighteen to twenty inches from the surface, it must first be re- 
_moved by underdrains, for nothing is more injurious to the 
Raspberry than stagnant water at the root. This may seem 
strange to some, after having already said that it delights in a 
moist soil, but plants make a great difference between moist and 
‘wet. A thoroughly underdrained clayey loam is the very best 
soil naturally for the most economical cultivation of this fruit. 
The plough should be run as deep as possible, and if the plough 
can be followed by the subsoilez, right behind it in the bottom of 
the furrow, so much the better. 

The plants should be set in rows six feet apart, and two feet 
apart in the row. Six feet may seem to be a great distance be- 
tween the rows, but if the plants have proper culture it will soon 
be found not to be too much for convenient use of the cultivator. 
Ina small garden, where the horse and cultivator cannot be used, 


THE RASPBERRY. 173 


the rows may he set four feet apart. If set at two feét apart in 
the row, the plants will soon form a continuous hedge; and any 
suckers appearing between the rows, unless wanted for a new 
plantation, should be treated as weeds and thoroughly cut up. 

The plants should be prepared for setting out by cutting 
back the cane or top to within three or four inches of the root. 
A growth of leaves or shoots is not wanted from this cane ; such 
growth only serves to exhaust the plant; but what is wanted is 
a good strong growth of new shoots from the root. These will 
survive the winter and produce fruit the next summer, while all 
the growth frdm the top or old cane will only die when autumn 
comes; and if this top should bear fruit, as it very likely will, 
the effect is to exhaust the root and enfeeble, if not wholly ruin, 
the young root sprout that forms the cane for next year. If no 
sprout comes up from the roots, and survives the summer, though 
the top you plant may bear leaves, and shoots and fruit, in the 
autumn it will die, and the whole plant with it. 

The Raspberry is a sort of biennial plant; the canes that 
come up from the root this season will bear fruit next summer 
and die in the autumn, and if from any cause no-new canes come 
up during the summer to supply their place, there will be nothing 
to continue the plant another year, and it wholly fails. For this 
reason it is best to cut away the top when planting, leaving only 
enough to show its position after it has been set out. 

The cultivation during the first season after planting will con- 
sist in keeping the soil well stirred on the surface and free from 
weeds. Those who wish to economize ground and labor may 
plant bush beans between the rows, without injury to the Rasp- 
berry plants. In the autumn or very early in the spring, but 
better in the autumn, the plants should be liberally supplied 
with barnyard manure spread on the surface over the roots. 
This should be allowed to remain there, becoming gradually in- 
corporated with the soil by the tilling, and renewed as often as 
it becomes wasted, so that the roots may be kept cool and moist 


in summer, sud protected from the extremes of the winter's frost. 
13 


174 THE RASPBERRY. 


During the first season’s growth after planting, the young canes 
that come up from the root should be pinched off at the tip, with 
the thumb and finger, as soon as they reach the height of four- 
teen to eighteen inches, and any side shoots they may throw out 
should be pinched in when they are a foot long. 

In the second summer more and stronger canes will come up 
from the root. These may be allowed to grow until they are 
twenty-four to thirty inches in length, when they should be 
pinched-in, and the side branches that may be thrown out should 
be stopped when they are from eighteen to twenty inches long. 
It will usually be found that the main canes will require to be 
pinched-in some time in June, and the side branches early ‘in 
August ; yet the cultivator will remember that this pruning is to 
be done, not according to the almanac, but when the canes have 
reached the requisite length, be the month or day what it may. 
If the plants are thoroughly pruned in this way, they will be 
stocky and strong, capabl> of standing upright, and keeping their 
crop of fruit well above the ground, out of the dirt. During the 
second season, the canes that grew the first summer will yield a 
nice crop of fruit, as much as the plant ought to produce. As 
soon as the fruit has been gathered, the canes that produced it 
should be cut off at the ground and removed. They are of no 
further use; as the autumn comes on they will die, and by 
removing them as soon as the fruit is gathered, more room, light 
and air are given to the young canes that have come up during 
the season, and that are to bear the fruit next year. And of 
these young canes, if any of them should be weak and slender, 
it is always advisable to cut them away also at this time, leaving 
only those that are vigorous and capable of supporting the crop 
of fruit. 

In the autumn a further supply of manure should be furnished, 
and it may be here said, once for all, that this manuring should 
be performed every fall, and that he who does it with a liberal 
hand will be liberally rewarded in the quantity and quality of 
the fruit: Besides enriching the soil, the surface just over the 


. THE RASPBERRY. 175 


roots and where the cultivator does not reach in passing between 
the rows, should be covered to the depth of four to five inches 
with coarse barnyard litter, such as straw, or corn stalks, or refuse 
hay. If these cannot be had in sufficient quantity, recourse may 
be had to rotten chips or rotten tan-bark, sawdust or shavings, 
with which some ashes have been mixed. This mulching serves 
a very important purpose in preserving the plants in a healthy 
and vigorous state, and securing a large crop of large fruit. 

In some parts of the Dominion, where the snow does not 
Temain on the ground constantly during the winter, it becomes 
necessary to protect some of the more tender varieties. This is 
most conveniently and cheaply done by bending the canes carefully 
over, making the bend as near the ground as possible, and throw- 
ing a little soil on the tops. When the plants are ready to start 
in the spring they are gently lifted, the soil shaken off, and the 
canes fastened in an upright position by tying to a stake or trel- 
lis. "When the ground is covered with snow to a depth of two 
or three feet all the winter, no such protection is necessary ; and 
we have noticed that those plants, whose roots are well pro- 
tected by a liberal mulching, are seldom injured by the winter, 
though there was often no snow at all on the ground. With 
proper attention to the pruning of the plants while they are 
growing, and keeping the soil well enriched and the roots pro- 
tected with a good mulch both winter and summer, there will be 
much less complaint of injury to the canes by the winter, and 
a fine crop of large and handsome fruit will well repay all the 
labor bestowed. 

The following varieties have been selected from a very long 
list, as being the most worthy of attention in this climate. 

Brinoxkir’s Oran@e.—Orange.—This is the highest flavored, 
large-sized, light colored raspberry in cultivation, and well deserves 
a place in every garden throughout the Dominion. It is not per- 
fectly hardy in those parts where the snow does not cover theground 
all winter, but after growing it for at least a dozen years, it has 
proved so nearly hardy, and such an abundant bearer, that we place 


176 THE RASPBERRY. 


it in the front rank. Indeed, when it has been grown in rich, 
deep soil, and well mulched, it has not failed at any time to 
yield a fine crop of fruit. The berries are of large size, light 
orange color, juicy, sweet, 4nd rich. The canes are strong, exceed- 
ingly productive, and continue in bearing in moist seasons for 
about six weeks. 

Bette DE Fonrenay.—Belle d@ Orleans.— The best of the 
autumn—bearing varieties of the Antwerp class. It has the 
fault of sending up a great quantity of suckers, which require to 
be kept down with the hoe like so many weeds. If the canes 
are cut to the ground every spring, the fall crop will be much 
better than if the canes are allowed to remain and bear a summer 
erop. In the more northern parts of the country, it will be neces- 
sary to cut down the canes in spring, in order to get the 
autumn crop sufficiently forward to ripen the fruit ; and indeed 
it is doubtful whether it will even then ripen in those parts where 
the summers are very short and cool. 

The berries are large, dark crimson in color, juicy, with a 
very pleasant, sprightly flavor; the canes are stout, and moder- 
ately productive. 

Cuarke.—A_ variety but recently brought to notice, and 
thriving better than most of this class on a light sandy soil. It 
has been claimed for this variety, that itis perfecty hardy, but we 
have not found it to be more hardy than the Franconia, nor 
as hardy as the Philadelphia. 

‘The berries are of large size, of a bright crimson color, juicy, 
sweet, and of excellent flavor. It continues to ripen for a long 
time, and is an abundant cropper. 

Davipson’s THorntEss.—Thornless Black Cap.—This variety 
of the Black Cap has the great merit of being destitute of thorns, 
save a very small one on the leaf stalk. Those who have had 
experience of the many and sore scratches, to say nothing of torn 
garments, that one is sure to get in gathering the fruit of the 
American Black Cap, will be able to appreciate the comfort of 
picking berries where there are no thorns to lacerate the hands 
and tear the clothes. 


THE RASPBERRY. 177 


The berries are about the size of the average Black Cap, ripen 
early, are black, sweet, and well flavored. The plants are vigorous, 
very productive, and perfectly hardy. 

Fastortr.—An old English variety, of fine appearance and 
excellent flavor, too soft to endure transportation to a distant 
market, but very valuable for home use. The canes are strong, 
with stiff spines, and bear abundant crops of large, purplish crim- 
son berries, sweet, rich, and high flavored. 

PHILADELPHIA.—This variety is also almost free from spines, 
and one of the most hardy and prolific in cultivation. It does 
not take root from the tips of the young canes like Purple Cane, 
to which it seems to be nearly related, and throws up suckers 
quite sparingly. or these reasons, it has been found to be a 
valuable variety to cultivate for a near market, and is particularly 
well adapted to sandy soils. 

The berries are of full medium size, globular in form, dark 
red, not rich, but of a pleasant sub-acid flavor. The canes are 
stout, erect, and branching ; the leaves thick and tough, and 
do not suffer in times of drought, and the crop is exceedingly 
abundant. 

Franconis.—This is a very valuable variety, being’ nearly 
hardy, and very productive. The berries are large, dark purplish 
red, sufficiently firm to carry well to market, and of a rich, 
sprightly and agreeable flavor. It has been in cultivation for a 
long time, and stands next to the Philadelphia in hardihood and 
productiveness, while it excels that variety in size and flavor of 
the fruit, and firmness of berry. 

Frenou.— Vice-President French.—Originated by Dr. Brinckle, 
and named by him after one of the Vice-Presidents of the Massa- 
chusetts Horticultural Society. It is a valuable variety, ripening 
a little later than most other kinds. 

The fruit is of full medium size, of a deep crimson color, 
tolerably firm fleshed, sweet and of excellent flavor. The canes 
are strong, erect, and very productive. 

Gotpen Tuornuzss.—This is a variety of the Black Cap 


178 THE RASPBERRY. 


family, rooting at the tips of the young canes, but the berries are 
of a deep dull orange. It is the most productive and the berries 
are the largest of any of the Yellow American Raspberries. 
The canes are very nearly thornless, moderately vigorous, per- 
fectly hardy, and enormously productive. The berries are about 
the size of the Mammoth Cluster, very firm, juicy, and pleasant, 
but not high flavored. Woe have never seen any of the Ameri- 
can Yellow Raspberries that were equal in flavor to the Black 
Caps, but this variety is the most desirable and valuable 
of any of the Yellows, and makes a very pleasing addition to 
one’s list of sorts. 

Hornet.—A European variety, not as hardy as would be 
desirable, though thriving well where the winter snows are deep. 
The berry is very large, showy, deep crimson, juicy, and of fine 
flavor. ; 

ImprriaL.—We have found.this variety more hardy and 
more productive than Hornet, and the fruit nearly equal to it in 
size, of a bright red color, tolerably firm, juicy, and of excellent 
flavor. 

Kwever’s Giant.—An old English variety that deserves more 
attention than it has received. It is a very strong grower, nearly 
as hardy as the Franconia, quite hardy when there are deep 
snows through the winter, and exceedingly productive. The 
berries are of the very largest size, of a deep red color, quite 
firm, juicy, and of excellent flavor. We fully believe that in the 
vicinity of Ottawa and Montreal it might be profitably grown for 
market, and would certainly be one of the most attractive berries 
that could be introduced. 

Lum’s Eversearinc—Autumn Black Cap.—A very produc- 
tive fall-bearing variety of the Black Cap. The berries are 
about the usual size of the fruit in this class, and perhaaps a 
little more juicy. In most of our country it will be found neces- 
sary to cut down all the canes in the spring even with the 
ground, and not seek to obtain the double crop, for unless this is 
done, the autumn crop will not ripen before the frosts set in, 


THE CURRANT. 179 


If the canes are cut down in the spring the young shoots. are 
forced on more rapidly, and will begin to ripen their fruit about 
the first of September. “We advise those who live in those parts 
of the country where they find it difficult to raise apples, and 
where pears are almost an impossibility, to give this and the 
Belle de Fontenay a trial, treating them as here recommended, 
and see if in this way they are not able to secure a crop of 
autumn raspberries that will in some measure compensate for the 
loss of other fruits. 

Mamuora Cruster.—tThe largest and best of the varieties of 
the Black Cap family. The canes are very strong, branching, 
perfectly hardy, and enormously productive. The berries are 
large, black, with a handsome bloom, juicy, sweet, and fine, 
flavored. It ripens later than Davidson’s Thornless, in this way 
continuing the season of this class of fruit. 

Naomi.—We give this variety a place here merely to say 
that, after having grown it for several years, we fail to see 
sufficient difference between it and the Franconia to make any 
distinction. It-is no more hardy, nor any more productive, nor 
different in size or flavor of fruit. 

Pourrie Canz.—tThis native variety is hardy, very productive, 
and_-ripens its fruit early and all at once. The canes are strong 
and tall, perfectly hardy, and root at the tips. The berries are 
of medium size, of a purplish maroon color, too soft to bear 
carrying to a distant market, but good for home use, sweet, 
juicy, and rich. 


THE CURRANT. 


It is quite common to find the Currant bushes in some 
neglected part of the garden, nearly hidden by the grass and 
weeds, and yet bearing considerable crops of fruit. But though 
the great vitality of the plant will enable it to endure such treat- 
ment, it will repay a more generous treatment in both size and 
quality of fruit. While thriving well in almost every soil, it 
will produce the best results in a well-drained clayey loam, which 


180 THE CURRANT. 


is deep and rich ; and if liberally supplied with manure of any 
description, the crop of fruit will be immense. 

The Currant is easily propagated by cuttings or by layers. If 
-the cuttings are taken off in August, made about six inches long, 
and planted with the top bud just even with the surface of the 
ground, and then covered when winter sets in with a mulch of 
coarse litter six inches deep to prevent them from being thrown 
up by the frost, they will make stronger plants the next season 
than when planted in spring. The mulch should be taken off in 
the spring, so as not to interfere with the growth of the cuttings. 

Fig. 52 is a representation of a cutting as planted. 
From that part of the cutting below the surface of 
the soil the buds have been cut out, as shown in the 
engraving, while those above the surface are retained. 
If the buds below the surface are removed in this 
manner before the cutting is planted, there is much 
less probability of being troubled with suckers from 
the root. 

In setting out the plants in the garden for fruit- 
ing, they should stand about four feet apart each 
way, or if in single rows, four feet apart is a con- 
venient distance. Besides keeping the ground rich 
and clean between the bushes, it will be found that 
a heavy mulch, such as is recommended for the 

Fig.52. Raspberry, will be of great advantage, especially in 
very hot and dry seasons. A little pruning will also be ser- 
viceable, enough to keep the head open, and occasionally thin 
out the old wood, so as to keep the top in a healthy and vigorous 
condition. 

The following varieties are those most worthy of attention : 

Brack Napras.—tThis is the best of all the Black Currants ; 
the fruit is large and fine, and the clusters are both larger and 
more numerous than in any other black sort. 

Cuampacne.—A very handsome pale pink variety, esteemed 
on account of its peculiar color more than for any special quality 
of the fruit. 


THE GOOSEBERRY. 181 


Cuerry.—The largest Red Currant, very showy, and sells 
well in market. Is hardly as productive in our climate as the 
Red Dutch, and decidedly more acid. Bunches quite short. 

GLoIRE DE SaBLons.—A very prettily striped variety, red and 
white, but small in size, and valuable chiefly for its ornamental 
appearance. 

La Versaitiaise.—So very closely resembling the Cherry 
Currant in size, color and flavor, that having the one we have 
no occasion for the other. 

Rep Dvurcu.—This old, well known and long tried sort is 
yet a very valuable variety, of good size, fine color, rich acid 
flavor, long clusters and exceedingly productive. | 

Victoria._—A._ valuable, late ripening sort. The fruit is of a 
bright red color, as large as the Red Dutch. The bunches are 
very long, and hang a fortnight longer than other sorts. It is 
an abundant bearer, and greatly lengthens the Currant season. 

Wuitr Grape.—the best White Currant ; berries very large, 
not so acid as the red varieties, and of good flavor. An exceed- 
ingly productive and valuable sort. 


THE GOOSEBERRY. 


In the climate of Great Britain, the Gooseberry is grown in 
great perfection, but with us, it is only in comparatively a few 
favored localities that any good measure of success crowns our 
efforts. It is usual for cultivators to say, that the mildew is so 
bad that it destroys the crop, and even ruins the plants. For 
all practical purposes, this statement is sufficiently exact, though 
the real difficulty lies, not in the mildew, but m such a condition 
of the epidermis or outer skin of the leaves and fruit of the 
Gooseberry, as to provide a suitable bed for the growth of the 
" minute fangoid plants which constitute mildew. This condition 
is doubtless produced by a state of atmosphere incidental to the 
climate of this country, the effects of which we do not know how 
fully to counteract. 


182 THE GOOSEBERRY. 


In those parts of the Maritime Provinces where the sea fogs 
prevail, the European varieties of the Gooseberry succeed, but 
farther inland, beyond their influence, the same difficulties are 
experienced. 

The foreign, or European varieties of Gooseberry, suffer more 
from this peculiar condition of our atmosphere than some of our 
native sorts, and doubtless the cultivation of the English varieties 
will always be attended with great difficulty. It is almost use- 
less to undertake their cultivation in a sandy soil. Inadeep and 
very rich clay loam, they may thrive, but they will require care- 
ful culture, thorough pruning, abundant manuring, and in most 
places to be thoroughly mulched with hay or straw, or some 
coarse material, and well watered. An occasional sprinkling 
of salt on the mulch, in moderate quantity, has been found to 
be serviceable in helping to maintain a suitable humidity. 

The propagation of the Goose- 
berry is both by cuttings and 
by layering. Usually cuttings 
will succeed well. New varie- 
ties are obtained from seed, 
# Seedlings of European varieties 

* have not proved to be suited to 
our climate, but there is every 

ae 88: reason to believe that seedlings 
from some of our native sorts may yet be obtained of good size 
and flavor, and which will be adapted to the climate, and free 
from mildew. 

The process. of layering is shown at fig. 53. It consists in 
bending down a branch, on one side of which a tongue has been 
cut with a sharp knife, and fastening the cut part below the sur- 
face of the soil, by means of a hooked peg. 

The varieties of foreign Gooseberries are too numerous to be 
given here, and every year gives us additions to the list. They 
are all fine berries where they can be grown, and all subject to 
mildew, in most places and seasons. 


THE CRANBERRY. 183 


There are some American varieties which have been found to 

be usually exempt from mildew. They are not as large and 
_ Showy as the English sorts, but we must content ourselves with 

these until better are produced. We consider the two described. 
below to be the best. 

Downine.— Was raised by Mr. Chas. Downing, of Newburgh, 
N. Y., and has proved to be the best of the American sorts thus 
far. The berry is of medium size, of a light green color, and 
very good flavor. _ The plant grows upright, with shining, deep- 
green leaves, and is very productive. 

Hoveutoy.—The fruit is not as large as the Downing, is of 
a pale red color, sweet and good. The plant grows well, but the 
branches are slender, with a somewhat drooping habit, and exceed- 
ingly productive. 


THE CRANBERRY. 


We desire to call attention to the cultivation of this fruit, 
believing that there are many acres now lying wholly neglected, 
covered with rushes, coarse grasses, stunted bushes, and possibly 
intermingled with vines of the Cranberry, which are well adapted 
to its successful growth, and which, by the application of a little 
labor and capital, might be made to yield a handsome revenue. 
At present this fruit brings high prices in all the cities of this 
continent, selling readily at from eight to ten dollars per barrel ; 
and should it ever happen that the supply becomes equal to the 
demand in America, the fruit can be put up in barrels, and 
shipped with perfect safety across the Atlantic. 

Cranberry plantations have been found to yield an average 
crop of one hundred bushels to the acre, taking one year with 
another, though it is no uncommon thing to gather two hundred 
and three hundred bushels to the acre. It is one of our hardiest 
fruit-bearing vines, growing wild in many of our marshes; it is 
very prolific, requires but little care after being once fully estab- 
lished, and will remain without renewal on the same ground, 


184 THE CRANBERRY. 


and continue to bear abundantly for an indefinite length of time. 
The fruit is much esteemed and in good demand, and when 
properly handled, will keep fresh a twelvemonth and bear tran- 
sportation without injury. 

In selecting a location for a Cranberry plantation, it is highly 
important to avoid those places where the water must be stag- 
nant,—such soil is sodden and cold, and the roots will rot in it. 
If it cannot be so drained that the water will be at least one foot 
below the surface of the soil, it is unfit for Cranberry culture. 
Yet we have no confidence in an upland plantation. The Cran- 
berry is a semi-aquatic plant, and requires a constant supply of 
water, therefore, it is necessary to select a place which can be 
abundantly supplied. It is also very desirable in our climate 
that it should be well sheltered from cold, raw winds, and if it 
have a southern exposure so much the better. If it be possible 
to secure a piece of ground that can be overflowed at pleasure, 
having in reserve a sufficient body of water higher up for this 
purpose, it will be of great advantage. This may often be secured 
by erecting two dams, one above the Cranberry beds and the 
other below. By means of the upper dam a body of water may 
be kept always at hand, which can be let on to the Cranberry 
plants at pleasure; and by means of the lower dam, with pro- 
perly arranged gates, the water can be kept on the beds at any 
desired level. In this way the plants can be protected from late 
spring frosts that would kill the blossoms, or from very early 
autumn frosts that would injure the fruit before it is fully ripe. 
During winter the water should be kept so deep that it will not 
be frozen through to the ground, and this may protect the plants 
from too great a degree of cold. During the summer the water 
should be drawn off to about one foot below the surface of the 
beds, so that the roots may find moisture all summer, and yet 
the soil above not be filled with stagnant water. Again, the 
water should not be too cold. Some locations that are supplied 
with water from springs in the adjacent bank are unsuitable, 
because the water is very cold. This may sometimes be remedied 


THE CRANBERRY. 185 


by cutting a ditch along the border, and draining off the cold, icy 
spring water, or gathering it into a reservoir, where it will be 
warmed by the sun and air before it reaches the plantation. 

The soil must not be too rich. The vines may grow in good 
alluvial soils, and seem very flourishing, but they will not bear 
fruit. Clay and marl are wholly unsuitable, and heavy soils 
in general are not adapted to the growth of this plant. Air, 
water, and pure sand form its food, and where these can be had 
in suitable combination it will thrive best. Cranberry cultiva- 
tors say that the best soil is beach sand. This is the soil of the 
celebrated Cape Cod Cranberry plantations, either naturally or 
supplied artificially. The sand is light and porous, admitting 
air and moisture freely to the roots of the vines, while weeds 
and grasses, which would choke them, can not grow in it. 
Where beach sand can not be had, any clean sand—the more 
free from all mixture of vegetable matter the better—may be 
used. Some have found pure gravel—the cleanest is the best— 
to be a good substitute for sand. Next to beach sand is peat, 
and this is almost always present in wet grounds. The peat 
requires some preparation before it is fitted for Cranbery cul- 
ture. The top turf requires to be taken off to a depth sufficient 
to remove all roots of grass and weeds, and the bared surface 
left exposed to the action of the frost and weather for one year. 
This treatment will make it light and porous, preventing that 
caking and cracking which is sure death to the Cranberry. 
Where the soil is not naturally either a sand or peat, and the 
location seems otherwise well suited to the cultivation of the 
Cranberry, it may be possible to supply pure sand or gravel. 
After taking the turf off from the beds to a depth that will 
remove all the roots of grass and weeds, the bared surface may 
be covered with sand to the depth of four or five inches, or 
with gravel to about half that depth. 

Overflowing the beds can be very easily effected, if the arrange- 
ments in the way of dams already suggested have been provided. 
About the end of October is the proper time to let on sufficient 


186 THE CRANBERRY. 


water to overflow the plantation to such a depth that the water 
will not be frozen through to the ground during the winter. 
The water should be allowed to remain until such time in the 
spring, usually in May, as the weather becomes mild and vege- 
tation commences, when it should be drawn off just to the tops 
of the vines. This will give the plants the benefit of the in- 
creased warmth of the weather, yet at the same time protect 
them from frosts. The water can be allowed to remain at this 
point until the season has become so far advanced that the dan- 
ger from frosts is past, and then it should be drawn off entirely. 
The necessity for this arises from the extreme sensitiveness of 
the blossoms, and the same is true of the unripe fruit, to frosts. 
If it be possible to have a reservoir of water retained by a dam 
above the beds, with which to flood the plantation at will, the 
water may be drawn off earlier in the spring, and a longer sea- 
son be thereby secured than would be safe without such an 
arrangement ; for if a frosty night threatened after the water 
had been drawn off, the plants could be again covered with water 
from the reservoir, and thus kept safe from the frost. Again, in 
autumn the unripe fruit could be protected from premature frosts, 
and sometimes the entire crop preserved, by letting on the water 
whenever danger of frost was apprehended at night, and draw- 
ing it off in the morning. In this way also the plants may be 
protected from the ravages of insects. It is liable to attacks 
from two kinds of worms; one of these destroys the vines, the 
other the fruit. By submerging the vines for a few days, as 
soon as these begin to appear, they will be drowned out and the 
plantation preserved. 

Planting the Cranberry can be best done in the latter part of 
May or the beginning of June. The roots are placed in the soil, 
the vine spread out and covered so as to leave only the tips of 
the branches out. Set in this way each branch will form a 
plant. The closer they can be set the sooner they will cover 
the ground. The Cranberry will also grow from cuttings. Some 
planters run the vines through a straw-cutter set to cut them in 


THE CRANBERRY. 187 


lengths of about two inches, and sow these pieces broadcast over 
the ground. These are then well harrowed in, when they soon 
root, spring up, and speedily cover the ground. Others plant in 
drills, but the method pursued is of little consequence if the 
ground has been so thoroughly prepared before planting that 
there will be but few weeds to contend against. If the ground 
is likely to be full of weeds and grasses, it will be necessary to 
plant the vines in such a way that they may be thoroughly 
weeded out, for the Cranberry is not able during the first years 
to choke them, but on the other hand is in great danger of being 
choked by them. 

The cultivation is confined chiefly to the three years imme- 
diately after planting, and consists in keeping all grass and weeds 
from getting a foothold. The best method of doing this is not 
by hoeing, but by pulling the grass and weeds up with the hand, 
loosening the ground if necessary with a digging fork, so that 
the roots of the weeds may be drawn out entire. After the third 
summer, the vines should have so fully covered the ground as to 
choke out all grass and weeds and require but little attention. 

In selecting plants to set, care must be taken to procure fruit- 
ful plants, for there are plants which are very fine-looking and 
vigorous, but which yield little or no fruit. In gathering plants 
from our marshes, some attention must be paid to this matter, by 
noting during the previous autumn those which are fruitful, or 
labor and time will be both lost and great disappointment follow. 

The varieties of the Cranberry seem to be quite numerous, 
differing chiefly in size and shape of berry. There seem to be 
three tolerably well defined sorts, known as the Cherry, the Bugle 
and the Bell Cranberries, which are readily recognized by the 
form of the fruit, but beyond this difference in form there seems 
to be nothing to distinguish one from the other. As long ago 
as in 1856 a letter was published from Professor F. Shepherd, of 
‘Western Reserve College, Ohio, in which he mentions a variety 
of Cranberry which he saw growing on the upland in great 
quantities in various parts of British America, particularly on 


188 HUCKLEBERRY OR WHORTLEBERRY. 


the Neepigon coast of Lake Superior. Should any reader of 
these pages know of any locality where such a variety of Cran- 
berry is now growing, he will confer a great favor by communi- 
cating the information to the author. 


Fig. 54. 


Fig. 54 is a representation of a branch of the Cranberry vine 
and fruit, of the Cherry variety. 


HUCKLEBERRY OR WHORTLEBERRY. 


This neglected fruit deserves more attention than it has yet 
received. In many respects it possesses better natural qualities 
than either the Currant or Gooseberry. The northern species are 
all perfectly hardy, and many of them very productive, and wholly 
free from the thorns that make the Blackberry, Raspberry, and 
Gooseberry, such uncomfortable things to handle. The berries 
are firm, and will bear carriage to market much better than 
Strawberries or Blackberries. Thousands of bushels are gathered 
from the woods, and sell readily in market. Why should not 
careful cultivation and selection result in the same improvement 
of this fruit that has been obtained by the cultivation of the 
others? Beyond doubt, it would; and as the woods and marshes 
will not always afford a supply of these berries, we desire to call 
attention to the Huckleberry as a promising subject for horticul- 


HUCKLEBERRY OR WHORTLEBERRY. 189 


vural experiment. 
Seed may be secured 
by crushing the ber- 
riesand mixing them 
with some fine sand. 
This may be sown 
in a bed of finely 
pulverized soil, cov- 
ering with very fine 
mould, to the depth 
of not more than a 
quarter of an inch. 
The bed should be 
kept moist, screened. 
from the direct rays 
of the sun, and when 
the seedlings are a 
year old, they will 
require to be trans- 
planted to where 
they will have room 
to grow and bear 
fruit. From these, 
selections could be 
made of the finest 
and most desirable, 
which could be pro- 
pagated by layering, 
or grafting, or bud- 
ding, upon those 
which were of infe- 
rior quality. Fic. 55. 

Fig. 55 represents a branch of the Huckleberry laden with 
fruit. 


14 


THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 191 


planted sentiment of our nature by making no place so homely 
as home. Rather will the wise father seek to foster this love of 
home, by gathering about the farm-stead that which shall make 
it pleasant to the eye and dear to the heart, that shall minister 
enjoyment to mind and body, and link the thought of it in the 
memories of his children with every comfort and every joy. 
Who can wonder that the children of some of our cheerless farm 
houses have no pleasant thoughts of home, and leave it as soon 
as they are fledged? No wonder they seek their enjoyments 
elsewhere, perhaps in places where they learn the ways of vice. 
No. wonder that so many sons of farmers leave the farm, so bleak 
and cheerless, and un-home-like, disgusted with its labors and all 
they have known of the farmer’s life. There is no reason why 
: the farmers of Canada should not enjoy every real comfort, dwell 
in the most pleasant of homes, beautiful in all their surround- 
ings, have their tables supplied with all the most delicious fruits 
and vegetables of our climate, and their door-yards an Eden of 
delightful bowers, bright with blossoms laden with sweet per- 
fume. 

' But there is another view to be taken of this subject by those 
farmers residing upon the suburbs of our thriving towns and 
villages. A well-conducted garden is a paying thing. The time 
and labor bestowed on the garden may be made to yield a hand- 
some revenue. Vegetables and small fruits may be grown in 
excess of the wants of the farm house, and the surplus will 
always find a sale in the town market, if of good quality, and 
usually at decidedly remunerative rates. In this, as in all de- 
partments of industry, skill in producing fine products will have 
_ its sure reward. The careless and unthinking cultivator will, in 

the erid, be driven from the field by the man who uses his brains 
and makes himself informed upon the best modes of culture, and 
studies the requirements of his soil and of the plants he culti- 
vates. In these pages will be found some hints that will help 
the Canadian farmer to an acquaintance with the requisites essen- 
tial to success in the cultivation of the garden, and such descrip- 


192 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 


tions of the several vegetables and of the culture required by 
each, and of the several varieties at present most esteemed in 
Canada, that he can, with a little practice, become a successful 
grower of garden products. : 

THE soit which is best suited for the production of vegetables 
is what is termed a rich loam, fully a foot in depth, with a sandy 
or gravelly subsoil, through which the surplus water readily 
filters. This is the character to be most desired, and the nearer 
it approaches to this the better it will be. A poor, light, thin 
soil, and a heavy, tenacious clay soil, are alike to be avoided. 
Sometimes a soil may be greatly improved by deep ploughing, 
so as to bring up the subsoil and mingle it with the soil, but it 
is oftener the case that the subsoil is sterile, and requires to be 
gradually worked up and brought into contact with the amelio- 
rating influences of the atmosphere. Hence, in selecting a place 
for the garden, if there be none on the farm of the desired depth 
of soil, that should be preferred where the subsoil can be most 
readily brought into a fertile condition. If the subsoil be so 
tenacious or so compact that the water finds its way through it 
slowly, it will be necessary to under-drain the garden. And 
just here it is probable that many. readers will stop, and say if 
that be necessary, they must just give up the idea of a garden 
altogether, for they cannot afford to under-drain. Were nine- 
tenths of our farmers to set themselves to work systematically 
to under-drain their farms, taking one field a year until the 
whole farm was under-drained, they would get back their entire 
outlay in five years by the increased production of their farms. 
But men are slow to believe this great truth. Yet what is true 
of the farm is doubly true of the garden. Peter Henderson, 
himself a most successful gardener, gives an account of a man 
who had a ten years’ leasehold of eight acres. For three years 
he cultivated the land as a market garden, barely making both 
ends meet. At this time he was persuaded by Mr. Henderson 
to under-drain this land, of which he held only a lease having 
now but seven years torun, At the expiration of his lease he 


THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 193 


bought the eight acres, paying therefor twelve thousand dollars, 
and all this sum he had saved from the sale of the products of 
his garden since he had under-drained the land. He found that 
it paid him well to under-drain; and though, from the peculiar 
nature of the circumstances in which he was placed, he obtained 
a much larger return from his eight acres in a few years than 
our farmers may expect to get, yet the fact that under- -draining 
will pay the cultivator handsomely still remains. 

If, then, the subsoil be retentive, do not be deterred from 
under-draining enough ground to furnish a comfortable garden. 
If the products are all consumed in the family, the under- 
draining will pay in the greater ease of cultivation, and the 
greater satisfaction of producing that which is satisfactory in 
quantity and quality. If it be desirable to cultivate also for 
market, the increased returns will soon balance all the expen- 
diture. There is nothing lost in putting the ground into that 
condition which is the most favorable to vegetable growth. 
Hence, in preparing the ground for a garden, it should be 
thoroughly ploughed and cross-ploughed, and the subsoil well 
broken up by the subsoil-plough following in the bottom of the 
furrow at each ploughing. When the ground has been thus 
thoroughly and deeply broken up, it should be well harrowed, 
and, if full of lumps, well rolled, until every clod is crushed and 
the soil made fine and mellow. 

An abundance of manure should be applied to the garden 
and thoroughly incorporated with the soil. This every farmer 
should have in abundance in his cattle-yard, and use with an 
unsparing hand. If he can conveniently increase the quantity 
by obtaining the refuse hops from some neighboring brewery, or 
horn scrapings from a comb manufactory, or the refuse of a pork- 
packing establishment, he will find them to prove very beneficial. 
Indeed, the garden is very much benefited by an occasional 
change of manures. It seems as though, by the constant use of 
any one manure, the plants failed to derive the proper nutri- 
ment from the soil, but, by changing from one to another, the 


194 ASPARAGUS. 


fertility is better kept up. We have found an occasional use of 
ashes, leached or unleached, to be of great benefit; and the 
farmer who does not find it convenient to obtain any other than 
barn-yard manure, may effect a change by ploughing under a 
crop of clover every five or six years. This, of course, will 
necessitate an occasional change in the garden spot. But in 
whatever way it is done, this variation in the character of the 
manure applied will be found of essential benefit. Finely- 
ground bones is probably the best commercial manure within 
the reach of our farmers. This can be had at about twenty-five 
dollars per ton, and will pay well if applied once in four years 
as a rotation manure. With soil thoroughly under-drained, well 
and deeply pulverized, and abundantly supplied with manures, 
the foundation is laid for successful gardening.. 


ASPARAGUS. 


This is a valuable early vegetable, perfectly hardy, and peren- 
nial; consequently, a bed of it will last for twenty years. The 
ground is prepared by deep ploughing and subsoiling, or by 
trenching with a spade, at the same time incorporating with the 
soil an abundance of manure. The Asparagus delights in a rich 
alluvial soil, in which sand predominates. It is usual to obtain 
plants of two years’ growth for forming a bed. These can be 
had of any nurseryman or market gardener. When it is not 
convenient to procure the plants, seed may be purchased of the 
seedsmen, and sown, either in the fall or spring, in drills a foot 
apart. The seed should not be sown very thick, and after the 
plants appear they should be thinned out, if necessary, so as to 
stand about four inches apart in the row. If these have been 
well cared for they will be quite large enough to take up when 
one year old and transplant into the permanent bed. Some sow 
the seed on the intended bed, and never transplant at all. In 
that case the rows should be about eighteen inches apart, and the 
plants nine inches apart in the row. If plants are set out it 


ASPARAGUS. 195 


will be found convenient to stretch a ling, and with the spade cut 
a trench about six inches deep. In this trench the plants are 
set, spreading the roots out carefully, and the crown covered 
about two inches deep with earth. The best time for setting 
the plants is in the spring, after the ground has become settled, 
usually from the middle of April to the middle of May. As 
soon as weeds begin to make their appearance, which they will 
usually do before the Asparagus buds appear, it will be found a 
very expeditious, and at the same time convenient method of 
destroying them, to give the beds a light raking with the steel 
take. This raking may be repeated, if required, until the 
Asparagus buds show themselves at the surface. 

THE AFTER CULTIVATION consists chiefly in keeping the 
ground free from weeds, and the surface loose and friable. In 
those parts of the Dominion where the snow does not lie on the 
ground to a sufficient depth to keep the ground from being 
deeply frozen, it will be found advantageous to cover the bed 
with coarse manure, to the depth of four or five inches. As 
soon as the stalks are dead in the fall, they should be cut down 
at the surface of the ground and the top dressing of coarse 
manure put on. Although the plant is sufficiently hardy to 
endure the frosts of winter, experience has shown us that the 
plants which are thus protected start earlier in the spring, and, 
as it is always desirable to get fresh vegetables from the garden 
as early as possible, this’ light winter protection becomes very 
desirable. As soon as the weather becomes settled in spring the 
coarser parts should be raked off, leaving only the fine manure. 
Sat is a special manure of great benefit to this plant in those 
parts of the country lying remote from the sea shore ; though it 
is said that, in the vicinity of the sea, its use is not attended 
with any benefit. It should be applied in the spring to the 
surface of the ground, strewn upon it at the rate of three pounds 
to the square yard. Being naturally a marine plant the salt 
supplies that which is wanting, in our inland districts, to the 
health and vigor of the plant, while it destroys many weeds and 


196 ASPARAGUS. 


worms in the soil which are prejudicial. "When the bed is not 
covered with barnyard litter in the fall, a top dressing of a 
couple of inches of well rotted manure should be spread over the 
bed, just as the plants begin to start in the spring. 

Curtine the buds for the table may be begun the third 
spring. It is the practice of many to cut the buds two or three 
inches below the surface, and, in most works, this is the direction 
given. But why we should take so much pains to secure a long, 
white, woody stalk, which no cooking will make tender, and no 
person can eat, is more than we can understand. It is the prac- 
tice of the writer to cut the buds, when three to five inches long, 
just above the surface of the ground, thus securing for the table 
all the green portion, and leaving the white part in the soil. In 
this way there is no danger of injuring the buds yet below the 
surface, and the work is much more expeditiously performed. 
This cutting should not be continued too long. When the beds 
are young the buds may be cut a couple or three times over, but 
when the beds have become established the cutting may be 
kept up for three or four weeks. As soon, however, as the plants 
begin to show any signs of weakness the cutting should be dis- 
continued for that season. 

The buds are cooked by boiling them in water for twenty 
or thirty minutes, until they become soft. Some toasted bread 
is then laid out upon a dish, the cooked asparagus spread upon 
the toast, and melted butter poured over the whole. In this 
manner the buds are kept entire and brought to the table. 
Others cut the sprouts or buds into small pieces about half an 
inch long, and cook and serve the same as green peas. Others 
prefer to treat them simply as greens, and use them with 
vinegar. 5 

Varietigs of Asparagus are mentioned by writers, and of late 
much has been said about Conover’s Colossal Asparagus. We 
have no confidence in the existence of any such varieties, much 
less do we believe they can be perpetuated by sowing the seed. 
A possessor of this Colossal, confident of its superiority in size 


BEANS. 197 


over all others, recently exhibited some of his best samples at 
the Massachusetts Horticultural Society’s Exhibition, and was 
badly beaten by larger and heavier specimens of the common 
Asparagus, which made no pretensions whatever to being colossal. 
High cultivation, plenty of manures judiciously applied, with a 
deep alluvial soil, will make all the difference we have yet seen, 
without trying to make people believe that it is a different 
variety. 


BEANS. 


1t is usual to separate beans into two classes, the one com- 
prising all those varieties which have a dwarf or bushy habit of 
growth, the other embracing those which have a climbing habit, 
and require a pole or other support. The first class is called 
Dwarf, or Bush Beans; the other, Pole, or Running Beans. They 
are all very sensitive to frost, and on that account should not be 
planted until the weather is warm enough to plant Indian Corn. 

Buss Beans do not necessarily require a rich soil, indeed 
they will grow in poor soil, but they yield much better in land 
that has been well enriched. ‘Nor are they very particular as to 
the character of the soil, so long as it is warm and dry. Wet 
soils, and shaded situations, are very unfavorable to their culture. 
They are usually planted in hills, which may be such a distance 
apart as is most convenient to the cultivator. If the ground is 
to be tilled with the aid of a horse, the hills will require to be 
set in rows three feet apart, and the hills two feet apart in the 
row. If intended to cultivate wholly by hand, the hills may be 
eighteen inches apart each way. As the young plants are sub- 
ject to the depredations of cut-worms, it is well to plant eight 
beans in each hill; but if five grow, it will be sufficient. Some- 
times they are sown in drills three inches deep, and eighteen 
inches apart, and the beans dropped about two inches apart in 
the drills. The following varieties are the most desirable. 

Harty Varentive.—tThis bean is not excelled by any in the 
tender succulence of its pods when green. They are of moderate 


198 BEANS. 


size, thick and fleshy, and continue in use fora long time. As 
a shelled bean, it is not desirable. It is very productive, and 
comes into use in about seven weeks from the time of planting. 
The ripe bean is of a salmon color, marbled with purplish rose. 
The flowers are white. 

Earty Monawx.—This variety is one of the most hardy 
sorts, enduring cold winds and chilly weather, and even light 
frosts, much better than any other kind. On this account, it is 
a valuable variety to plant in those places which are subject to 
late frosts and chilly winds. It comes into use about a week 
later than the Early Valentine, is very productive, the pods are 
tender and good, and if they are gathered as fast as they become 
fit for use, a good supply will be kept up for some time. It is 
not desirable as a shelled bean. The bean is drab-colored, varie- 
gated with purple, and the flowers are a pale lilac. 

REFUGEE, or Thousand to One.—Not an early bean, coming 
into use in about eight weeks from the time of planting. It is 
extremely prolific, and the pods are quite thick and fieshy, and 
of fine flavor. It is much esteemed as a snap-bean, but not much 
used when shelled. The flowers are purple, and the beans light 
drab color, spotted with purple. 

Newineron WonpEer.—Much esteemed for private use, on 
account of the particularly tender and crisp character of the pods. 
It is exceedingly productive, comes into use after the early 
varieties are over, and continues for a considerable length of 
time. The beans are small, light brown, and not used as shelled 
beans. They require the whole season to ripen perfectly. 

Wuitn Marzowrat.—This is the well-known white bean 
so largely cultivated for market. It is an excellent variety when 
used as a shell bean, either green or ripe; indeed we esteem it 
as the best of all the bush beans for this purpose. It is not a 
very early variety, requiring to be planted about the tenth of 
June, in order perfectly to ripen its crop. It is quite productive, 
yielding from twenty to thirty bushels per acre, and usually sell- 
ing at about one dollar per bushel. 


BEANS. 199 


Wax or Burren Bean.—A variety of recent introduction, 
but very popular in our markets as a snap or string bean. It is 
a very productive variety, with thick, fleshy, yellow pods, and 
which continue in use along time. The beans, when ripe, are 
black, and not desirable for shelled beans. To our own taste the 
pods lack sweetness and richness of flavor. 

Pott Beans, or, as they are sometimes called, Running Beans, 
require some support, and on that account are not as generally 
planted as the dwarf varieties, which do not require to be fur- 
nished with poles around which they may twine. Besides, they 
are usually not as hardy, suffering severely from the slightest 
frost, and require a light but rich soil. Yet there are some vari- 
eties that are exceedingly desirable, and those who grow Indian 
Corn may avail themselves of the facility which the corn fur- 
nishes of providing poles for the beans. The Cranberry varie- 
ties can be grown by planting a few beans in the corn-hill at the 
time of the second hoeing, and as they grow they will twine 
around the corn-stalks for support. In this way the farmer can 
raise enough to supply his own table without any serious incon- 
venience. On account of the tender nature of this class of beans, 
it is of no use to plant them until the warm weather has fully 
set in, and the soil become warm and dry. 

Rep Cranperry.—-An old and favorite sort, one of the most 
hardy and productive of its class, and more generally cultivated 
than any other pole bean. It will ripen its crop in about three 
months from the time of planting. It is frequently used as a 
string bean, the pods being tender and succulent, and retaining 
this character for a long time, but its chief value is as a shelled 
bean, used before it has become ripe. The beans are of a deep 
purple color. 

Waits CranBerry.—Some prefer this variety to the prece- 
ding on account of the color, and as a shelled bean, both green 
and ripe, it is of great excellence. It does not come to maturity 
as quickly as the other sort, and on that account cannot be 
ripened in all seasons in some parts of the country. It usually 


200 BEANS. 


requires a season of fifteen weeks from the time of planting to 
bring it to maturity. , 

Casz Knire.—This is an exceedingly prolific variety, requir- 
ing about the same length of season as the White Cranberry, and 
like it of a clear white color, and of excellent quality as a shelled 
bean, both green and ripe. 

‘Concorp.—On account of its early maturity, as well as its 
general good qualities, this variety is deserving of attention in 
our Canadian climate. Planted after the commencement of 
warm weather, it will begin to ripen in about ten weeks. It is 
a healthy and productive sort, of excellent quality as a shelled 
bean both in the green and ripe state, but is not valuable as a 
string bean. 

Lima Beay.—This variety is universally esteemed to be the 
best of all this class, but unfortunately our climate is too short 
for its maturity. Often the frost comes just as the beans are 
becoming large enough for use, and as it is also one of the most 
tender of all the pole beans, the labor of a whole summer perishes 
just at the point of fruition. Yet there are some paris of our 
Dominion, particularly the more favored sections of Ontario bor- 
dering on the lakes, where this bean can be successfully grown ; 
also, by taking a little pains to start them about the tenth of 
May, under a sash, and then transplanting them into the open 
ground after the weather has become quite warm and settled, the 
season of growth may be so lengthened that beans may be had 
large enough for the table, even though they may not ripen. 
We have been most successful in planting them upon pieces of 
inverted sod, cut about two inches square, and placed either 
under a sash, or in some warm, sunny corner, on the south side 
of a building or of a high board fence. When the weather has 
become fully settled into summer, the beans are removed, with 
the bit of sod in which they are growing, to the permanent 
ground, without in the least being checked in their growth. 
This ground shoud be in a warm and well sheltered part of the 
garden, and where the soil is warm, dry, and rich. 


BEETS. 201 


The pods are always tough, and can never be used as a 
siting bean, but the full-grown beans, while yet green, are tho 
most delicate and delicious of all beans. When ripe they are of 
a dull greenish white, flat and broad kidney-shaped. 

Beans, of all kinds, cannot be relied upon to germinate when 
they are more than two years old. 


BEETS. 


This valuable vegetable forms a very important crop with our 
market gardeners, ranking second only to the cabbage. In some 
of its varieties it is a most valuable farm crop, while the finer 
sorts are both pleasing to the eye and pleasant to the palate when 
placed on the dinner table. 

The most favorable soil is one that is light, deep, and dry, 
though well enriched. When grown in heavy soil, particularly 
that which is damp and cold, it is apt to be coarse, and of poor 
flavor. In a poor soil it becomes tough and full of fibre. The 
use of coarse manures makes the roots forked and ill-shapen. If 
the ground be well dressed with fine, well rotted manures, the 
roots will be smooth and solid. 

The ground having been prepared by thorough pulverizing, 
the seed may be sown in drills, an inch and a half deep, and 
about eighteen inches apart, dropping the seed every two inches. 
For early summer use they should be sown as soon as the ground 
has become settled, but for autumn and winter use, about the 
middle of May. When the young plants are about three inches 
high, they should be thinned out, by pulling up the weakest, so 
as to stand from four to five inches apart. The young beets that 
are thus pulled out make excellent greens, cooked tops and all, 
and dressed with vinegar. By taking outa part each day, the 
table may be supplied with them for a week or two. 

The subsequent cultivation consists in keeping them free 
from weeds, and the surface of the ground loose and mellow. 
‘When the surface of the ground is frequently stirred, the plants 


202 BEETS. 


will grow better, because of the mellow condition of the soil, and 
in time of drought will suffer far less than if the earth is left 
undisturbed and allowed to become hard. The reason of this is, 
that when the surface is mellow evaporation does not take place 
as rapidly as when it is hard, and the moisture in the soil, 
instead of going off into the air, is retained to supply the roots of 
the plants. Besides this, the frequent stirring admits air into the 
soil, and the air furnishes food to the roots as well as the water, 
so that whether there be weeds to destroy or not, these stirrings 
of the surface are beneficial to the growth of all plants. 

Beets are not only valuable for summer use, but they may 
be preserved through the winter, and used whenever desired. 
Those that are intended for winter use should be gathered 
before the frosts become severe, for if they get severely frozen 
before they are taken up the exposed part will decay. In 
taking them out of the ground, care should be had not to 
injure or bruise the roots, and in taking off the leaves not to 
cut the crown of the beet. After removing them from the 
ground, they may be left exposed to the air long enough to 
dry, and then removed to a cool cellar, and packed in fresh 
earth or sand, alternate layers of roots and earth, so that they 
shall be well covered. If carefully gathered, and stored in this 
way in a cool cellar, they will keep quite sweet and good until 
June. It is, however, a very common error to keep them in a 
warm cellar, and in such a place they lose much of their fresh- 
ness and flavour. It is better that the cellar should be so cool 
that the thermometer shall stand at freezing point, or a very 
little above, than to keep them warmer. 

In growing beets for table use, it is not desirable to see how 
large they can be made, for the large, overgrown specimens are 
coarse and lacking in flavor, but the rather to grow them smooth, 
firm and fine grained. The test of a good beet is in the close, 
compact character of the flesh, with fineness of grain, free from 
fibre, and perfect smoothness of exterior. Therefore, in selecting 
roots from which to raise seed, those should be chosen which 


BEETS. 203 


are well formed, free from forks or branches, smooth, of medium 
size of the variety, and having the color indicating a pure strain. 
These should be planted out during the latter part of April or 
beginning of May, according to the character of the season, ~ 
where they will not be near any beets of another variety that 
are going to seed.. The seed will usually ripen in August, may 
be gathered when dry and preserved for future use. Beet seed 
possesses great vitality, and, if it has been kept dry, will grow, 
though it may be five or six years old. If the seed be soaked 
in warm water for a few hours just before planting, it will ger- 
minate quicker and more certainly. 

The following varieties will be found to be the best for 
table use :— 

Earty Bassano.—Fig. 56 shows the form of this variety of 
beet. This variety is shaped much like a white turnip, with a 
slender tap-root. The exposed part of the 
root is brown; beneath the surface of the 
ground it isa clear rosy red. The flesh is 
nearly white, with circles or veins of bright 
pink, not very: close-grained, but tender, 
sweet and pleasant. It is a very early 
sort, introduced from Italy, and much 
valued on account of its coming so soon 
into use. Many esteem it so highly that 
they make a second sowing late in June 
for winter use. The roots from the early 
sowing would not be suitable for the table 
in winter, becoming too tough and fibrous. Fig. 56. 

Earty Buoop Turnip.—Succeeds well everywhere, and is 
much esteemed on account of its healthy character and uniform 
excellence, and is more universally planted than any other sort. 
It is shaped much like a smooth, well-formed, globe turnip, 
being about four and a half inches deep by four inches in 
diameter. It is very smooth and handsome, with a deep blood- 
red flesh, often mae veins of lighter red, very tender and sweet. 


204 BROCCOLI. 


It is but little later than the Bassano, and keeps well for winter 
use. 
Lone Smoot Bioop.—One of the best, especially for fall 
and winter use. It is long, round and free from rootlets, of fine 
quality, and of a deep blood-red color. In flavour and tender- 
ness of flesh it is superior to the common long blood beet. 

Carter's St. OsytH.—This is a comparatively new sort, 
much esteemed in England, and, so far as it has been tested 
here, maintains its English reputation. It is a long beet, very 
sweet, rich, fine grained and crisp, and will doubtless become a 
general favorite. 


BROCCOLI. 


We give this name a place here, merely to say that the dis- 
tinction between Broccoli and Cauliflower seems to us to be 
without a difference. It is said to be more hardy than the 
Cauliflower, and on that account can be left out all winter in 
places where the winters are mild, but as we never have such 
winters in Canada, this difference has no practical existence 
here. It is also claimed by some that it is more sure to head 
than the Cauliflower, but this opinion has obtained merely 
because the Broccoli is planted for fall use, and having the benefit 
of cool and moist weather, heads well, and so will Cauliflower 
when treated in the same manner. 

The cultivation and treatment are in all respects the same as 
for Cauliflower, and will be found under that head. The follow- 
ing are the leading varieties : 

Purpie Cape.—tThe heads of this variety are, as the name 
indicates, of a purplish color, which are of good size, close and 
compact. Cooking destroys the purple, so that on the table it 
has.a whitish green color. It is an excellent variety, and heads 
well. 

Wurtz Carz.—lIs said to be not quite so hardy as the Pur- 
ple, but in all other respects differs nothing from it, only in 
color, being of a creamy white. 


BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 205 


WalcHEerREN.—Another white variety, producing very large 
and firm heads. It is as large and fine as most Cauliflowers, 
and is said by those who can see the difference between Broccoli 
and Cauliflower to endure both heat and cold, and dry weather 
also, better than a Cauliflower. 


BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 


Fig. 57 shows the form in which it grows. This singular 
variety of the Cabbage family is little cultivated in our climate. 
Our summers seem to be 
too hot for it, and it very 
frequently becomes badly 
infested with green fly or 
aphis, It looks like a tall- 
growing variety of Cabbage, 
with a tuft of leaves and 
sometimes a well formed 
head on the top, and a large 
number of small Cabbage 
heads growing out of the 
sides of the stalk in the 
axils of the leaves. When 
the summer is cool and 
moist, these little heads are 
very tender and sweet, re- 
sembling a Cauliflower in 
flavor, but in hot, dry sum- 
mers they are apt to be Fig. 57. 
strong and sometimes bitter. There can really be no object in 
cultivating it, except for the oddity of the thing, a well-grown 
Cauliflower being fully equal to an entire plant of Brussels 
Sprouts in quantity and quality, and much more likely to yield 
an adequate return for the labor bestowed. Those who wish to 
give it a trial should cultivate it im all respects as they would a 
Cabbage, and cook and serve as if it were Cauliflower. 


206 CABBAGE. 


CABBAGE. 


The soil best suited to the growth of the Cabbage is a dee) 
and. very rich loam. The plants flourish best in a cool, moist 
season, and are impatient of long-continued droughts and extreme 
hot weather. Hence in this climate our best heads are generally 
obtained from late-grown plants, which grow rapidly and form 
compact, tender heads as the autumn weather comes on. Fre- 
quent stirring of the soil is exceedingly beneficial to the Cabbage, 
and an abundant supply of well rotted manure essential to the 
attainment of the best results. Ashes and lime are excellent 
manures for the Cabbage, and best of all finely-ground bones, at 
the rate of a ton to the acre, sown broadcast on the ploughed 
ground and harrowed in. It is said by experienced market gar- 
deners that the liberal use of ground. bones or a liberal application 
of lime to the soil will prevent the attacks of the maggot in 
the root, which insects are often very injurious to the young Cab- 
bage plants. 

To obtain early Cabbage, the seed is sown in September, 
about the fifteenth of the month, and the young plants set out 
in a cold frame just before winter, about the first of November, 
and protected from the extreme cold, by placing double sashes 
over them. Another method, and the one most commonly 
practised among our farmers, is to start a hot-bed in March, and 
in this sow the Cabbage seed. For late Cabbage, the seed is 
usually sown about the first of May, in a prepared bed or cold 
frame. In all these cases the Cabbage plants are subsequently 
transplanted to the open ground, which has been previously pre- 
pared to receive them, choosing a damp, cloudy day, just after a 
shower, for the transplanting. 

Cabbage may be preserved for winter use in a cool cellar or 
root house, where the thermometer is kept just above the freezing 
point. The best manner of doing this is to pull up those having 
good, solid heads when they are dry, strip off a few of the outer 


CABBAGE. 207 


leaves, and plant them out as it were in some fresh earth, in the 
cellar, setting the Cabbages as close together as they will stand, 
and burying the roots in the soil. Secured in this way, they 
can be conveniently procured at any time in the winter; and 
where there is not sufficient room to store away the entire winter's 
supply, a few can be placed in the cellar, and advantage taken 
of occasional mild weather during the winter, to replenish the 
store from the pit outside. 

The usual method of storing Cabbages in a pit, and one that 
is found to answer every purpose, is to dig a trench about one 
spade length in depth, in the bottom of this trench place a couple 
of rails, and upon these rails place the Cabbage, head down, having 
first plucked off a few of the very loose outer leaves, and bringing 
the remaining leaves close around the head. The trench is 
usually made wide enough to hold three heads of cabbage. They 
are packed in closely, then covered with earth, until about half 
the length of the stalks is covered, and then a few inches of straw 
laid upon the earth ; and this covered again with soil until the 
stalks are completely hidden, forming the covering into a sharp 
ridge. Care must be taken that the water which may find its 
way into the trench shall be able to run freely away. Stored 
in this way, Cabbage will keep perfectly until spring. 

Cabbage seed will germinate freely when four years old, if it 
has been well preserved. To keep seeds sound they must be 
kept dry. 

The following varieties, though by no means all that are in 
cultivation, are among the best, and will be found to be every 
way satisfactory. 

Earty Yorx.—A well-known early variety, much esteemed 
everywhere, and easily distinguished by its peculiar habit, and 
the deep pea-green color of the leaves. It forms small, solid 
heads, roundish oval in form, which are tender and of good 
flavor. As they are never large, the plants may be set eighteen 
inches apart each way. 

Earty WaAKEFIELD.—The variety raised in America under 


208 CABBAGE. 


this name, is a favorite with the market gardeners any»und New 
York City, on account of its rare combination of earliness and 
size, being much larger than the Early York, and very sure to 
produce a good crop; in other words, to head well. The form of 
the head is pyramidal, rounded at the top, and the head is also 
quite solid. On account of its greater size, it sells better in mar- 
ket than the Early York. There seems to be a difference between 
the American and English varieties of this name, the American 
being better and earlier ; hence it is necessary to be particular to, 
procure American-grown seed. i 

Litttz Prxre.—lIs a very diminutive but early sort, of dwarf 
habit, the whole plant being not larger than some good cabbage 
lettuce. The flavor is delicate and the heads solid. It seems to 
be more of a fancy sort than one of general utility. ° 

‘Winyinestapt.— We esteem this one of|the most valuable of 
all the Cabbages. It heads freely, bears drought and heat remark- 
ably well, and keeps well through the winter. Though often 
mentioned as a summer variety, and answering that purpose as a 
second early sort remarkably well, when the seed is sown early, 
yet it is as a fall and winter cabbage that it is most valuable. 
The heads are of a conical form, very compact and solid, and the 
stalk short. It is a profitable market variety, always meeting 
with a ready sale. 

Premium Frat Durcu.—This is also a very popular sort, 
forming large, round, and solid heads, which are broad and flat 
on the top, stalk short. It is a very large-growing variety, and 
keeps well, remaining fresh and crisp until late in the spring; at 
the same time quite tender, sweet, and good. 

DrumHeaD Savoy.—All the Savoys may be readily distin- 
guished from the other Cabbages by the peculiar wrinkled 
appearance of the leaves, and the looser, less compact structure of 
the heads. They are extremely hardy, bearing well a consider- 
able degree of frosty weather, which, indeed, so far from injuring 
them, seems to improve their quality and flavor. This variety 
is shaped much like the common Drumhead Cabbages, hence 


CARROTS, 209 


its name. The heads are large, round, a little flattened at the 
top, and quite compact. This is the best of the large Savoys, 
heads well, is tender and of fine flavor, and retains its freshness 
and flavor late into the spring. The seed should be sown early 
in this climate, as it needs the whole season to Deed itself. 

Green Guope Savoy.—For do- — 
mestic use this variety stands, in the 
estimation of the writer, without a 
rival. In fineness of texture, sweet- 
ness and delicacy of flavor, it is un- 
surpassed ; yet such is the passion 
for size among buyers in our markets, 
that delicacy and excellence of quality 
are quite overlooked, and a hundred 
heads of Flat Dutch will be sold for 
one of this sort. It is very hardy, = 
heads freely, is smaller than the Fig. 58, 
Drumhead Savoy, and has the leaves very finely wrinkled. It 
attains its highest excellence late in the season, after the advent 
of frosty weather, and retains its freshness late in the spring. 
Those who can enjoy fine quality in a Cabbage will plant this sort 
for their own table, and the coarser varieties for market. Figure 
58 is an engraving of this variety. 

Rep Dutcu.—This variety is used for pickling. It retains 
its crispness and freshness when pickled better than the white 
kinds, which soon become tough and wilted, and besides this its 
bright color gives it a very pleasing appearance. 


CARROTS. 


The soil best suited to the cultivation of this vegetable is a 
deep, rich, sandy loam ; wet and cold soils are very unfavorable. 
It is not necessary hat: the soil should be very highly enriched 
with manures, but it is very important that it should be most 
thoroughly pulverized to a good depth. Some of the writer's 


210 CARROTS. 


best crops of Carrots have been obtained by turning over a good 
clover sod late in August, on ground that had been previously 
well subsoiled, harrowing lengthwise of the furrow, and in the 
spring mellowed up thoroughly with a two-horse cultivator. The 
seed should be got in as soon as the ground is warm, and sown 
with a liberal hand. It pays better to thin out the young plants 
afterward, than to be so sparing of seed as to have large blanks 
in the rows. The young plants are so feeble, that when they 
stand singly they are often unable to force their way through the 
crust that frequently forms over the surface of the soil, but when 
sown thick, their united efforts seem to be able to break the 
crust that was too strong for a single plant. It is a great mis- 
take to sow Carrots on ground that is full of seeds of weeds. If 
sit be possible to till the ground with some hoed crop, such as 
early potatoes or early cabbages, the season before, and after the 
crop is taken off plough and harrow, and when the weeds start 
harrow again with a heavy harrow, and in this way turn. up as 
many of the weed seeds as possible to the surface, and after they 
start to grow kill them with the harrow or two-horse cultivator, 
much labor of weeding the next season after the ground is sown 
to Carrots will be spared. 

The seed should be sown in drills about one inch deep and 
twelve to fourteen inches apart. Just as soon as the rows of 
young Carrots can be seen, they should be gone over with the 
hoe and carefully cleaned out. If once the weeds are allowed 
to get the start of the young Carrots and choke them, an irre- 
parable injury will have been done them, and the labor of weed- 
ing more than doubled. In their earlier life Carrots are feeble 
plants, and easily stunted and injured by an overgrowth of 
weeds. When they have become fairly established they should 
be thinned out to about four inches apart, and the ground kept 
clean, and stirred frequently during all the growing season. 

In the autumn the roots should be taken up and secured 
before the frosts are hard enough to injure them, that is, before 
the frost is hard enough to freeze the ground. Those that are 


CARROTS. 211 


intended for the table should be placed in alternate layers of 
fresh earth, and stored in a cool cellar. Those intended for the 
barn may be laid in ridges and covered with earth and straw so 
as to exclude the frost. Care should be used not to bring too 
large a quantity of Carrots together. In large heaps they will 
not keep so well as in smaller—at least, such has been the writer’s 
experience. Those in the large heaps decay, as if they had fer- 
mented. ; 

Every farmer should raise enough Carrots to supply his milch 
cows liberally. The animals thrive well on them, and the quan- 
tity and quality of the milk are improved. The finer varieties 
are a very desirable addition to the dinner table, and are exceed- 
ingly nutritious and wholesome. Used in soups, or boiled and 
dressed with cream, they are very palatable. 

Carrot seed cannot be relied upon that is more than two 
years old. It is usually stated that two pounds of carrot seed 
are sufficient for an acre, but we have found it much more 
economical to use at the rate of five pounds to the acre. 

Earty Horn.—This is the variety to cultivate 
for [the table. Fig. 59 is a correct representation of 
its peculiar form. It is short, terntinating abruptly, 
with a very slender tap-root ; the flesh is of a deep 
orange-yellow color, crisp and very fine grained, and 
of the richest and most delicate flavor. It does not 
require, when grown for table use, to be thinned out 
in the row to more than two inches apart, and may 
be used as soon as it is half grown. Some use this 
variety not only for the table but for their stock ; 
and, where the soil is naturally thin, and underlaid 
by a sterile or tenacious subsoil, this is a more profitable va- 
riety to grow for all purposes than the long-growing kinds. It 
maturés earlier than the other sorts, and on that account can 
be grown where the summers are very short. Those who have 
thought the Carrot too strong flavored for a table vegetable, will 
be much pleased with this. 


Fig. 59. 


212 , CAULIFLOWER. 


Earty Franoz.—A small, almost globular-rooted sort, very 
early, and well adapted for forcing—in truth, hardly desirable 
for cultivation in any other way than under glass. It is of a 
mild and delicate flavor, and near large cities, where high prices 
can be obtained for the earliest vegetables, may be grown with 
profit. 

Lone Oranex.—This is the well-known and long-cultivated 
yellow-fleshed variety, which is by no means unworthy of a 
place in the garden, and makes an excellent farm crop on 
suitable soils. The flesh is tolerably close-grained, tender and 
sweet. If used for the table the roots should be pulled when 
young, for they are better and milder flavored when half-grown 
than at maturity. As a field crop it will yield from six to eight 
hundred bushels to the acre, and is probably the most nutritious 
sort grown for stock feeding. 

ALTRINGHAM.—A deeper colored variety than the Long 
Orange, with a crisp flesh, which is mild and pleasant flavored. 
Those who grow Carrots for market find this to be a very sale- 
able kind, probably on account of its bright, lively color, as 
much as its good qualities. 

Waits Brieian.—Grown only as a field crop for stock 
feeding, too coarse and lacking in flavor for a table variety. 
It yields large acreage returns, and sells for as much per ton as 
the Long Orange; but we very much doubt whether the average 
crop from an acre will yield as much nutriment as an acre of 
Long Orange. For milch cows the Long Orange is the prefer- 
able variety, imparting to the butter a richness of flavor and 
color that cannot be obtained from the White Belgian. 


CAULIFLOWER. 


The soil best suited to the cultivation of the Cauliflower is a 
‘deep rich loam. This should be well pulverized, and abun- 
dantly supplied with manures that have been well rotted. 
Lime, ashes and ground bones are very valuable fertilizers for 
this vegetable, and though the main supply should be drawn 


CAULIFLOWER. 213 


from the farm-yard, yet the occasional use of these will be found 
exceedingly beneficial, and especially on land that has been long 
tilled. Common salt is said to be valuable as a fertilizer for the 
Cauliflower, but we have never tested its worth. 

If early Cauliflowers are desired, the seed should be sown in 
a hot-bed in March or very early in April, according to the 
season. As the plant is almost hardy, care should -be taken not 
to keep the young plants too close, but raise the sash and admit 
air in moderate weather, gradually increasing the quantity of 
air until the plants are so well hardened as to need covering 
only in extreme weather. If they have been judiciously treated 
they will endure safely ten degrees of frost, and may be set out 
in the open ground as soon as the soil is sufficiently settled 
to be worked. The secret of obtaining good early Cauliflowers 
lies in getting them well forward before hot and dry weather 
- sets in. During the cooler and usually showery weather of 
April and May, such growth will be secured as to ensure a 
well-formed head or flower. But if they are not set out until 
nearly all danger of frost is passed—which, in this country, is 
usually from the first to the fifteenth of June—they will very 
surely be overtaken by hot weather, and possibly dry as well as 
hot, and then the flowers will be small, tough, and strong- 
flavored. The only remedy we have seen suggested for this 
state of things, is to mulch the ground heavily with strawy 
manure, and sprinkle that with salt. This will tend to keep the 
soil cool and moist, and mitigate the effects of the heat and 
drought. But the better way is to get the plants early into the 
ground, and then they are sure to form good heads, unless the 
weather in May be unusually dry. 

For late Cauliflower, the seed may be sown in May or June, 
in the open air, in a prepared bed, on the north side of some 
building or tight board fence, where they will be least exposed 
to the depredations of that little black beetle, familiarly known 
as jumping Jack. If he should make his appearance, a liberal 
dusting of soot, or plaster, or ashes, will be found of benefit. 


214 CAULIFLOWER. 


As soon as the plants are large enough, they may be set out in 
the open garden, choosing a dull day, after a rain, if possible. 
These will come into head during the cool and usually moister 
weather of the latter part of September, and of the month of 
October. If any have not formed heads when the severe freezing 
weather begins to come on, they may be taken up and planted as 
close together as they will stand, after removing a few of the 
loose outer and lower leaves, in some fresh earth in a cool cellar 
or root house, and they will there be very sure to form flowers of 
delicate tenderness, from the time they are put into the cellar 
until Christmas, or possibly later. Indeed, we esteem it very 
desirable to have fifty or more plants that have not headed, to 
stow away in the root house at the beginning of winter, that a 
longer term of this most delicious vegetable may be enjoyed. 
Cauliflower seed that is four years old may be safely relied upon, 
only provided that it has been kept dry. 

The Cauliflower should be used while the head is compact and 
looks white like a curd, and indeed in this state it is often spoken 
of as the “curd.” If it be allowed to remain, the surface, which 
is nearly smooth in this state, gradually becomes uneven, and 
finally branches out, and runs up into flower stalks. It is cooked 
by boiling it in water in which enough salt has been dissolved 
to give the water a decided saline taste. This seasons the vege- 
table much better than it can be seasoned in any other way. 
After it has been boiled long enough to become tender, which is 
usually from twenty to thirty minutes, it is taken up into a dish 
and melted butter poured over it, when it is ready for the table. 

If any of our readers have not been in the habit of using the 
Cauliflower, we feel confident that one season’s trial of it will 
make it ever after a necessary of life. 

There is not much occasion to multiply varieties, and pro- 
bably the best for our climate are the two following : 

Harty Errurt.—This variety is especially valuable for early 
sowing. It heads well, is a dwarf, compact grower, and the 
heads are of good size, with a close white curd. 


CELERY. 215 


Waucueren.—Remarkable for its hardihood, being able to 
endure the cold and the heat and the drought much better than 
other varieties. The heads are large, compact, even, with a fine 
white curd. The leaves of this sort are broader and less pointed 
than those of other sorts. 

SrapTHoupeR.—Is much esteemed by the London market 
gardeners. Head large, compact, and fine. 

Lz Normanp.—Has proved a valuable variety, usually head- 
ing well, despite considerable heat and drouth. The heads are 
large, often very large, firm, white, and compact. 


CELERY. 


This delightful salad is seldom grown by our farmers, for the 
reason, probably, that the method of growing it, which is laid 
down.in most books on gardening, involves a great amount of 
labor, and to a large degree such as can be performed only by 
hand ; but this labor, it has been found, can be nearly all dis- 
pensed with, and the growing of celery has been very much 
simplified, so that we may hope that its cultivation will not be 
long confined to the gardens of gentlemen in towns and of mar- 
ket gardeners. Besides being a most agreeable addition to the 
farmer’s own table, he may, if living near a suitable market, 
make the growing of it a source of profit. 

To grow Celery well, a small piece of ground should be made 
very rich by working into it a liberal supply of short, well-rotted, 
barnyard manure, and thoroughly pulverized and raked off quite 
smooth and clean. This is for the seed bed, and need only be 
large enough to grow as many plants as it may be thought desir- 
able to have. It should be in some warm, sunny spot, and the 
soil light and dry. After the bed has been prepared, rows may 
be marked out across it about six inches apart, and the seed 
sown in the marks thinly and then covered by patting with the 
back of the spade. This should be done as soon in the spring 
as the ground has become a little warmed and in good working 
order. 


216 CELERY. 


The seed. does not germinate very quickly, and therefore, as 
soon as the rows can be seen it will be necessary to run the hoe 
between them and clean the bed of all weeds. This should not 
be done, however, when the plants are wet with dew or rain, 
as this has a tendency to cause them to rust; and this sugges- 
tion should be borne in mind throughout the entire season in all 
the operations connected with this vegetable. After the plants 
have become fairly distinguishable, they should be thinned out 
sufficiently to give those that remain free access to light and air, 
which will leave them about half an inch apart. 

When the plants have filled up the space now allowed them, 
and seem to be crowding each other, we have found it to be of 
decided benefit to select some cool but dry day, and prick them 
out into another bed, which has been previously prepared in the 
same way as the seed-bed. We'first give the young Celery plants 
a thorough watering with a watering-pot having a fine rose, soak- 
ing the ground well, and then, as soon as the leaves have become 
dry, carefully pull them out of the seed-bed and plant them in 
the new bed, in rows eight inches apart, and four inches apart in 
the row. If the transplanting is done just before sundown, and 
the earth firmly pressed about the roots, and as soon as the work 
is completed the bed nicely watered from a fine rose, the plants 
will need no protection from the sun, unless the following day 
should be unusually hot. The object of watering the seed-bed 
before pulling up the plants is to enable the operator to draw 
them easily from the soil and without breaking the root fibres, 
and the bed into which they are planted is watered as soon as 
the work is done in order the more completely to settle the earth 
about the plants, and this transplanting is done just before sun- 
down so as to avoid the heat of the sun, which might cause 
the plants to wilt, and is apt to make the ground bake if allowed 
to fall upon it just after it has been watered. This operation of 
transplanting small plants is what is termed “ pricking out.” 

Some persons trim off a part of the foliage of young plants, 
Celery and other plants, when they transplant them or “ prick 


CELERY. 217 


them out,” but it is a very mistaken practice. It originated, 
doubtless, in the idea that inasmuch as a large part of the roots 
were either cut or broken off in taking up the plant, it was 
therefore necessary to restore the balance between the top and 
the root by taking off a part of the top also. If the directions 
given in the preceding paragraph are followed, and the ground 
in which the young plants are growing thoroughly soaked, and 
the plants carefully pulled, not dug, the roots will draw out of 
the soil without being much, if any, broken. If by chance any 
should be materially deprived of their roots, such had better be 
thrown away. It is cheaper to set out only good plants, and 
never spend labor on a poor thing shorn of half its roots and top. 
Another very important matter in transplanting is to firm the 
earth well about the roots. More plants die in the process of 
transplanting, from neglect to press the earth gently, but firmly, 
about the roots, than from any other cause. 

By transplanting the Celery into a new bed, where the plants 
can have more room, we secure nice stocky plants, with an 
abundance of root. Such plants will produce fine, solid heads 
or bunches, while those that have been drawn up will always be 
weak and spindling, and yield but a wretched crop. After 
transplanting, they will need to be kept’clean and the soil stirred 
occasionally, so that they make a strong healihy growth, always 
remembering not to work among them when the leaves are wet. 
Early in July it will be time to prepare the ground for planting 
out the Celery. A piece that has been cleared of a crop of early 
cabbage, or peas, or beans, if it was heavily manured in the 
spring, will be just the place for Celery, requiring only to be 
ploughed and well harrowed, so as to pulverize it thoroughly. 
Upon this the Celery may: be planted in rows, three or four feet 
apart, and six inches apart in the row. These plants should be 
taken up carefully, allowing as much earth as possible to adhere 
to the roots, and set out without disturbing the ball, at the same 
time pressing the soil firmly about the root. The directions 
already given in regard to transplanting from the seed-bed may 


218 CELERY. 


be advantageously followed here, except that the plants can not 
now be pulled out of the soil, but must be gently lifted out with 
a transplanting trowel. In a couple of days they will have 
thrown out new roots, and if they have not been allowed to get 
wilted, will begin to grow vigorously. Nothing more is requisite 
than to keep the ground free of weeds, until after the middle of 
August, being careful, in hoeing, to draw the earth more towards 
than from them, yet not to hill them up, nor by any means to 
let any of the soil get into the heart of the plants. 

Towards the end of August, when the Celery has made some 
eight or ten stalks, forming a good shield around the heart so as 
to protect that part from the soil, the earth should be drawn up 
to the plants as high as to the first leaves. It is well to hold 
the stalks together in a bunch with one hand, while with the 
other the earth is drawn around the plant, always being careful 
that the soil is not drawn up so high as to get into the heart. 
When the heart stalks have grown up to the height of the out- 
side leaves, then the earth should be banked up against the 
plant to very near the top. This is all the earthing up thé 
plants will need. Much, of the labor of this may be done by 
running alight plough with a steady horse between the rows, 
throwing the earth towards, not on to the plants, and finishing 
with hoe and spade. When the heart has again grown up above 
the outer leaves, the Celery will be fit for use. 

By this method of growing Celery a much better article is 
obtained and with much less labor than by the old mode of dig- 
ging out trenches in which to plant it, and then earthing it up 
gradually every few days. The best Celery is that which is the 
most crisp, tender and sweet, and that can be best obtained by 
securing a quick growth. By earthing-up after the weather has 
begun to get cool, at which time the plant grows most rapidly, 
and ‘doing it at two instead of a dozen operations, a quick growth 
of the heart or centre stalks is secured. 

It is prepared for use by removing the outer stalks, washing 
off all the adhering soil in clean water, cutting away the corky 


CELERY. 219 


bark of the root, and dividing the root into pieces, leaving the 
stalk adhering to each portion of the root. These are placed in an 
upright position, in a glass about one-third full of water, and set 
on the table. The water will prevent it from wilting, and pre- 
serve the stalks fresh and crisp. 

It can be stored for winter use in a cool root-cellar, by taking 
it up in a dry day and planting the roots in fresh earth in the 
cellar, much in the same way as recommended for Cauliflower. 
The cellar must not be kept too warm ; as near 30° Fahrenheit, 
as possible, or just above freezing, is warm enough. In such a 
cellar we have kept it in exceiient condition, and find it more 
convenient than keeping it in the ground. But those who have 
no such cellar can keep it in trenches made in a dry spot where 
no water will settle in them. The trench should be dug as nar- 
row as possible and as deep as the length of the Celery. In this 
trench the Celery is placed in an upright position, packed close 
so as to fill it entirely, with the green tops just on a level with 
the top of the trench. In order to have it keep well it must be 
covered gradually with straw, as the weather becomes colder, 
until by the holidays it is covered from a foot to eighteen inches 
deep with straw. If, however, this be all put on at once in the 
fall, the Celery will spoil. Covered gradually as the weather 
becomes colder, commencing the covering as soon as the ground 
has frozen to the depth of a couple of inches, the Celery will 
keep well, and can be easily got at any day in the winter. If 
snow falls in the meantime to such a depth that the frost cannot 
reach the ground, that will of itself be a sufficient covering, if it 
can be relied upon to remain ; if not, a covering of straw should 
be laid upon the snow, which will help to keep it from melting. 
But the straw used should be clean, not that which has been 
used as bedding for the farm stock. From such straw there 
might leach down upon the Celery a dirty water that would 
impart to it a decided barnyard flavor. 

The best variety of Celery is the Sandringham Dwarf White. 


It has a fine nutty flavor, is crisp, tender and solid. There are 
16 


220 CRESS OR PEPPER GRASS. 


other good varieties, some of them having red tinted stalks, but. 


this is the best, and no one who has once grown it will ever. 


want any other for his own table. 


CRESS OR PEPPER GRASS. 


This is an early spring salad, used either by itself or mixed 
with Lettuce. It has a warm, pungent taste, hence its name of 
Pepper Grass. It grows readily in any garden soil, and may be 
sown just as soon as the garden can be worked. The young 
leaves are always the best, which should be cut before it begins 
to run to seed, and as it grows rapidly, if it is desirable to have 
it long in use, seed should be sown two or three times, with an 
interval of ten days or a fortnight between the sowings. The 
surface of the bed should be raked smooth and fine, and the seed 
sown thickly in shallow drills and slightly covered. The seed 
will grow when five years old. 

Curiep Cress is the variety most generally grown, on account 
of its handsome appearance, which makes it very suitable for 
garnishing dishes, as well as for use as a salad. 

Water Cress differs materially from the Cress or Pepper 
Grass of our gardens, being a hardy perennial plant, growing 
along the margins of streams and ponds, but is much like it in 
the peculiar pungent taste of the leaves, and is used, particularly 
in the spring of the year, as a very agreeable salad. When once 
sown along a running stream or pond, it will rapidly increase and 
spread, and those who have such a place on their farms, can 
easily supply themselves with this very agreeable and healthful 
spring salad, at the mere cost of gathering it when wanted. And 
if residing near a market, especially that of a large city, they will 
find it a very profitable crop to raise. A basketful will sell for 
fifty cents, and as an ordinary waggon will carry some two hundred 
such baskets, in a city where there is asale for such a quantity, 
a hundred dollars can be taken for a single load. 

Gentlemen who are desirous of growing Water Cress for their 


CRESS OR PEPPER GRASS. 221 


table, and yet have not a convenient stream of water, may adopt 
the following method, which is said to answer the purpose well, 
though we have never given it a trial. It is simply to prepare a 
hot-bed, as early in March as possible, and plant it with the Water 
Cress. In this, if kept pretty close, it is said to grow very luxu- 
riantly, and can be cut as it is wanted. It will soon grow up 
again after being cut, and requires only to be watered freely twice 
a week, to give an abundant supply. When the sun becomes 
hot, it will be necessary to whitewash the glass to prevent the 
plants from scalding. If plants can not conveniently be had, no 
doubt they can be raised in the bed from seed, only requiring 
longer time to get established. 

Cucumprrs.—The soil best suited to the growth of the Cucum- 
ber, is a light, friable loam, thoroughly drained and in good heart. 
Those who grow this vegetable in quantity for market, find a 
well-rotted sod to be an excellent manure for them, turning it 
under in the end of August, and ploughing again in spring, and 
giving a third ploughing just before planting. If the object be 
to get cucumbers for pickling, there is no occasion to plant before 
the first of July, and by planting late, the vines make such rapid 
growth as soon to get out of the way of striped bugs and other 
insect pests. The hills may be placed at four feet apart each 
way, and a. dozen seeds sown in each, and if too many should 
survive the attacks of their numerous foes, they may be thinned 
out to four or five plants in each hill. 

It is a good plan to put.a shovelful or two of thoroughly 
rotted manure in each hill, and work it up with the soil before 
planting. In this way the manure is economized and applied 
more directly where it is wanted, than by spreading it pnEBE eS 
over the whole ground. 

When Cucumbers are wanted for the table or market in the 
beginning of summer, it is necessary to have recourse to frames, 
in order to get the plants well started in good season, and to get 
them so large before they are exposed in the open ground, thatthey 
will escape the ravages of the striped bug. The best way of 


222 CRESS OR PEPPER GRASS. 


raising them, is in a cold frame on pieces of inverted sod, in the 
same manner as recommended for the Lima Bean. This. should 
be done about the middle of May, the sod cut into pieces about 
four inches square, and three or four seeds planted on each piece. 
Care must be taken not to allow the plants to get drawn up, but 
by giving plenty of air keep them stocky and hardy. When 
they have three or four rough leaves, they can be transplanted by 
lifting up the bit of sod and settingit in the hill whereit is intended 
they shall grow. It is best to do this transplanting just before 
sundown, so that the plants may have the night in which to 
recover from the disturbance, but if the removal be carefully made 
they will not feel the change. If water be given at the time of 
transplanting, let it be a thorough soaking, sprinkled on through 
a fine rose, that will sink down below the roots. 

When the cucumbers are large enough to cut, the vines should 
be examined every day, and all that are large enough, and all 
that are misshapen, imperfect or worthless, taken off; forif any 
are allowed to remain on the vine to ripen, the crop will be 
materially lessened, the energies of the vine seeming to be directed 
to the ripening of those that are left on, instead of the setting of 
more fruit. If it be desired to save seed from any, a few of the 
best formed may be left on a vine that is quite removed from those 
of any other sort, andallowed to ripen. Theyintermingle soreadily 
that it is difficult to get pure seed when more than one variety is 
raised in the same garden. Careful gardeners keep a vine in a 
frame where it can be well secured from the pollen of any other 
sort, until the desired number of fruit has set, fertilizing the pis- 
tillate flowers by hand. The seed has great vitality, retaining 
the power of germination for eight or ten years. 

The following sorts will be found the most profitable. 

Earty Frame.—An old and well-tried variety, much esteemed 
on account of its vigorous and productive character, and the 
tender quality and agreeable flavor of the fruit. It is used both 
for the table and for pickles. 

Wauire Spinu.—A great favorite with market gardeners 


CORN. 223 


because of the great productiveness and healthy habit of the vine, 
and the handsome appearance and excellent quality of the fruit. 
Besides, it does not change to yellow on approaching maturity, 
and retains its freshness of appearance for a long time. 

Lone Green Turxey.—lIs an excellent productive sort, the 
fruit sometimes measuring sixteen inches in length, firm, crisp, 
having few seeds, and of good flavor. 

There is no end of varieties grown in frames, some of them 
nearly a yard in length, but probably the best of them is Sion 
Hovsz Improvep. 


CORN. 


As every tiller of the soil knows how to grow Corn, it 
will not be expected that we should give very minute directions 
on this head. Yet we have noticed that comparatively few of 
our farmers grow those varieties of corn that are best adapted for 
table use when green, but content themselves with some ears 
taken from their field varieties, while it is yet in the milk. 
Although these are often very good, we think there are garden. 
varieties which are much sweeter, more tender, and, what is well 
worth considering, lasting much longer in that soft state in which 
they can be used for the table, than any of our field sorts. It is 
to these we desire to direct attention, believing that those who 
may be induced to try them will thank us in their hearts for 
bringing them to their notice. 

The cultivation of these varieties of Corn differs in no way 
from the ordinary treatment. They flourish best in a warm, dry, 
loamy soil, that has been well enriched and thoroughly tilled. 
The seed should not be planted until settled warm weather, the 
young plants being very sensitive to frost. It may be planted 
in hills in the usual way, or in drills four feet apart, and about 
eight inches apart in the drill. 

Earty Eicut-Rowep Sweer.—Aftery trying a good many 
varieties, we give this the decided preference over all others, as 


224 ENDIVE. 


the best variety for table use. It is a good cropper, continues in 
use for some time, and is of a very rich, sweet, and pleasant 
flavor. By planting as soon as the weather will admit, which 
varies in different parts of the country from the 20th of May to 
the 10th of June, and again planting three weeks later,.a supply 
of most delicious Green Corn can be had until frosts cut it up in 
the fall. 

.STOWELL’s Evercreen.—Has the merit of being a late 
variety, and remaining soft all the season, but it does not com- 
pare in quality, in our estimation, with the Early Eight-Rowed. 

Wart Parcuine.—This is the very best-Pop-Corn, and 
every child should be made glad with a store of this for the 
winter evenings. It is an eight-rowed Com, ears about six inches 
long; kernels small, flinty, and of a semi-transparent white. 
‘When parched it is snowy white, very tender, brittle, and sweet. 
Always select the slender, small-sized ears that are well filled 
with only small white kernels, for seed corn, and keep it pure, as 
any mixture will impair its quality as a Pop-Corn. It is best 
when grown in dry, sandy or gravelly soil, and when the sum- 
mers are warm and short. 


ENDIVE. 


This salad plant is not much used in this country, Celery 
and Lettuce taking the place. It thrives in any good garden 
soil, and may be sown in drills about a foot apart. The seed 
should be sown thinly and covered but slightly, and after the 
plants are well up, they should be thinned out to about ten 
inches apart in the rows. As this salad is usually wanted for 
winter and early spring, the seed may be sown about the middle 
of July. In order to prepare it for use it is necessary to blanch 
the leaves. This is done by drawing the outer leaves together 
over the centre, and tying them fast with a string, or a mat may 
be thrown over the plants. In order to keep them through the 
winter, it is necessary to transplant them on the approach of 


EGG PLANT. 225 


severe weather into some fresh earth in the cellar. The plants 
should be taken up with a ball of earth about the roots, and after 
planting in the cellar, it is well to moisten the earth with a little 
water. 

Green CuRLED.—This is the best sort, hardy, tender, and 
crisp. 


EGG PLANT. 


Fig. 60 is an 
engraving of an 
Egg Plant with 
fruit. This is a 
very tender vege- 
table, requiring a 
long season, and 
can be raised in 
our climate only 
at considerable 
pains-taking. It 
can not be made 
with us a crop of 
much profit, and 
will be grown in ° Fig. 60. 
small quantities by market-gardeners near our large cities, and 
by those who have such a partiality for it that they are willing 
to take the requisite trouble. It requires a longer season to 
perfect its fruit than the Tomato, and the young plants are yet 
more sensitive to chilly winds and spring frosts. The seed 
should be sown in a hotbed in March, or in a flower-pot or box 
of earth, and started in the kitchen window, in the same manner 
as Tomato plants are started, and treated much in the same way, 
except that even more care must be used to keep them from 
being chilled, especially when they are transplanted into the open 
groun4, for if they get badly chilled they seem to get over it very 


226 GARLIC. HORSE—RADISH. 


slowly. For this reason it is necessary to wait until the season 
is well advanced, and all danger of frost is past. 

Lone Purpie.—tThis is probably the most hardy sort, matw- 
ing its fruit the soonest, and the most desirable for our climate. 

The fruit is usually cooked by cutting it into slices about half 
an inch in thickness, parboiling these in a little water, and frying 
in butter, seasoning with salt and pepper. Sometimes they are 
broiled, like a beefsteak or mutton chop, on the gridiron, or fried 
in a batter. 


GARLIC. 


This vegetable thrives best in a rich, light soil, made fine 
and friable. The sets are planted in rows a foot apart, and about 
four inches apart in the row, some time in the latter part of April 
or beginning of May. They need no special cultivation, other 
than to keep the soil loose and free from weeds. When ripe the 
tops wither, and the crop is harvested in the same manner as 
onions. It is used to flavor soups and stews, having an intense 
onion flavor. ‘ 


HORSE-RADISH. 


In very rich, deep, and mellow garden soil this root will grow 
rapidly, and can be cultivated at a good profit. It is worth 
upwards of one hundrd dollars per ton, and in such soil will 
easily yield three tons to the acre. Besides, it can be planted 
with some early crop, such as early cabbages, and made to occupy 
the ground after the first crop is taken off Market gardeners 
preserve all the small branching roots, breaking them off from the 
main root in preparing that for market, and cut them up into 
pieces about six inches long, and varying from one-half to one- 
fourth of an inch in thickness. These are packed away in moist 
sand in a cool root-cellar, until wanted for planting in the spring. 
Early Cabbages or early Cauliflower are planted in rows two feet 
apart, and eighteen inches apart in the row. Between the rows 


KOHL—RABI. 227 


of Cabbage a row of these Horse-radish cuttings are planted by 
making a hole with a stick deep enough to set the Horse-radish 
with the top about two inches below the surface. By planting 
it so deep it will be longer in making its appearance above 
ground, and so not interfere with the cultivation of the Cabbage. 
By the time the Cabbage is taken off the Horse-radish will be 
nicely started, with plenty of time to make fine roots before 
winter; and as it will now grow rapidly, will only require to 
be once well hoed over after the stumps of the Cabbage are 
cleared off. 

The plant is perfectly hardy, and makes its growth mainly 
during the cooler autumnal weather. It should be dug just 
before the ground freezes, the small roots broken off and stowed 
away for cutting up, when there is leisure for it, and the main 
roots cleaned by removing the green tops and washing in 
water. It is now ready for sale, and is bought by weight in the 
large cities, where it is grated and put up in glass jars. The 
consumption seems to have more than kept pace with the 
supply, as the price has considerably increased within the past 
ten years. 

For home use a few roots will suffice, which may be packed 
in earth, and kept in a cool cellar, where they can be obtained at 
any time. Grated and moistened well ii 
with good vinegar, it is used with meats, 
and is both an agreeable and wholesome 
condiment. The young roots, grown as 
described, are the best ; when allowed to 
get old, they become tough and stringy. 


KOHL-RABI. 


Fig. 61 is an engraving of this plant. 
This is a sort of above-ground turnip, 
not very generally used, and possessing 
no special qualities that we can dis- 
cover which render it particularly desir- 


228 LEEE, 


able. If sown too early it becomes strong in flavor and woody, 
but if sown about the middle of June, in rows eighteen inches 
apart, and thinned out so as to stand about eight inches apart 
in the rows, they will form after the midsummer heat has begun 
to wane, and be more likely to be tender, especially should the 
season be showery. The bulb is the part which is used, which 
is boiled, and treated in the same manner as the turnip. 

The Wuits and Purpwz are the sorts grown for table use, and 
are more likely to be tender and palatable when about three 
inches in diameter, than if allowed to become larger. 


LEEK. 


A very hardy plant, and of easy cultivation, flourishing in 
any mellow soil that is abundantly supplied with manure, and 
capable of enduring twenty degrees of frost without injury. 
The seed, which must not be more than two years old, should 
be sown in a well-prepared seed bed, in drills about eight inches 
apart, as early in April as convenient, and the bed kept clean 
and friable. In July, ground that has been occupied by early 
Peas may be ploughed and harrowed, and the plants set ont in 
rows a foot apart and six inches apart in the row, planting them 
rather deeply in the soil. Or the seed may be sown where the 
plants are to remain, if preferred, by making little trenches some 
six inches in depth, and sowing the seed in the bottom of these 
trenches, covering it not more than half an inch deep, and as the 
plants grow, gradually fillmg up the trenches with soil, which 
serves to blanch the bulbs, and make them of a milder flavor. 

The bulb is the part used, sometimes in soups and stews, and 
sometimes boiled alone and served with melted butter. They 
are fit for use in October, and can be preserved in earth in the 
cellar for winter. 

Lonpon Fuac.—This is the sort most commonly grown, and 
is about an inch and-a quarter in diameter. 

MousseLpurc.—Does not differ materially from the preceding, 
though perhaps is usually a little larger. 


LEEK. 229 


LETTUCE. 


An important vegetable with the market gardener, and one 
that is very acceptable in spring to every lover of salads. Those 
who desire to supply it as early as possible, will sow seed of some 
of the hardiest sorts, such as the Brown Dutch, or Hardy Green 
Winter, about the middle of September, in a warm exposure and 
in rich soil. In about a month later the plants will be ready for 
the frames, into which they must be transplanted, and as the 
weather becomes severe, protected with a sash, or in favorable 
positions, with dry leaves. The plants are sufficienty hardy to 
endure a cold of twenty degrees below the freezing point, and 
consequently only require a slight protection. We believe that 
in our climate, the north side of a building or high board fence 
is much better than the south side, or any side where the sun 
can shine directly upon the sash. A. uniform cold temperature, 
provided the cold be not greater than that mentioned above, is less 
likely to prove injurious to the plants than one that is frequently 
changing under the action of the sun’s rays. A frame three feet 
by six will hold six hundred plants. As soon as the ground can be 
worked in the spring, these plants should be set out between the 
rows of early Cabbage that have been wintered over in the same 
manner, thus economizing the ground, because the Lettuce will 
be all fit for cutting and used before the ground will be occupied 
by the Cabbage. Those who do not wish to take this trouble to 
secure fine early Lettuce may sow the seed in a hot-bed, or in a 
cold frame, or in the open air, according to the time when they 
wish to use it, or the conveniences they may have for growing it. 
If in the open air, a warm, sunny and well-sheltered spot is to be 
chosen, where it is possible, and the soil made rich with well- 
decayed manure, and worked up loose and fine. ‘We have 
noticed that although the Cabbage Lettuces will often head well, 
if allowed sufficient room in the seed bed, they usually head more 
uniformly if transplanted, and are in less haste to run up to 


230 LETTUCE. 


~ 


seed. The secret of making Lettuce brittle and tender lies in 
securing a rapid growth, which can be best done in a rich, warm 
soil, well supplied with moisture, but the water, however, must 
not be allowed to stagnate in the soil. Lettuce will head best 
before the hot weather of summer comes on, and consequently 
such plants as are not expected to head until mid-summer, will 
make finer heads if planted where they will be shielded from the 
sun during a part of the day. 

Aut THE YEAR Rounp.—This variety of Cabbage Lettuce 
remains a long time without running up to seed, the heads are 
small but close, and the plants hardy, enduring both heat and 
cold well. 

Brown Durtcu.—The heads are of medium size, not very 
solid, but they are tender and of good quality. The plants are 
very hardy, and on that account well suited for wintering over, 
and form heads freely. It does not endure heat well, and can 
not be so well relied upon for summer use as some other sorts. 

aoraat Drumueap or Matta.—Fig. 
62 is a representation of this 
variety. The heads are large 
and compact, tender, well-fla- 
vored, and nicely blanched in 
the centre. It remains in 
head for some time without 
running to seed. 

Tennis Batt.—This is one of the best sorts for forcing under 
glass. The head is small, very compact, slow in running to seed, 
and blanches tinely. The plant endures cold remarkably well, 
and grows best in cool weather, but is not suited to our hot 
summers. 

Nonparein.—One of our best summer varieties, enduring the 
heat, forming fine, compact heads, which are well blanched, ten- 
der, and of good flavor, and slow in running to seed. 

Paris Waits Cos.—The Cos varieties of Lettuce do not 
form such cabbage-like heads as the preceding sorts. The heads 


MELONS. 231 


are more conical, not solid, and do not usually blanch well without 

being tied up, though this variety is somewhat of an exception 

to this remark, the heads blanching tolerably well without tying. 

It is an excellent and very popular variety, being very brittle 

and well flavored, and makes an excellent summer Lettuce. 
Lettuce seed will grow when it is three years old. 


MELONS. 


Our seasons are short for the production of fine Melons, and 
even with the aid of hot-beds in which to start the seeds, we do 
not always succeed in ripening off the crop before frost. Nor 
have we found it to be of any advantage to give the plants a 
very early start so as to lengthen the season of growth, for, in 
truth, they will not grow in the open ground until the warm 
weather has fairly set in, and the nights are no longer chilly, not 
to say frosty. Besides, they seem to be so sensitive to a sudden 
chill, that plants started early under glass have need to be har- 
dened off with great care, for the cold seems to so shock their 
constitution that they do not recover from it for a long time, so 
much go, that plants raised from seed sown much later are often 
much the larger and healthier by the first of August. We have 
succeeded best by planting the seeds on pieces of inverted sod, cut 
about two inches square, which have been placed for a few days 
before planting in a cold frame, and the sash kept tight, so as to 
warm the sod thoroughly with the sun heat. As soon as the 
plants make their appearance give air as freely as possible, 
that they may not be drawn, but kept stocky and hardy. 
Such seed planting need not be done before the first of May, and 
the plants should not be set out in the open air before the 
ground has become quite warm, and the nights no longer cold. 

A light, friable, and warm soil, with as sunny an exposure as 
possible, and, if it can be, sheltered from west and north-west 
winds, is the best place for Melons. It need not be very rich, 
only enough thoroughly rotted manure worked into the spot 


232 MELONS. 


where the plants are set to give them a good start. During the 
dry weather of summer, it will be of advantage to give them a 
good watering with weak manure water twice a week. The 
Melon Bugs, too, will need watching, and the very best remedy 
we have ever found for these is a good hard pinch between the 
thumb and finger. 

When the weather has become warm enough, the plants 
should be carefully lifted, with the piece of sod on which they 
are growing, and set out three or four in a place, and these 
places about four feet apart each way. If the transplanting has 
een well done the Melons will not feel the removal, and will 
need only the usual care of occasional stirring of the soil, to keep 
it leose and free from weeds. We have succeeded also very 
well, in favorable seasons, by planting the seed in the hill where 
the Melons are to grow, and thus avoid the labor and care of 
growing in a frame and transplanting. It needs to be done as 
eatly as the season will admit, which will be as soon as the 
ground is warm enough to enable the seed to germinate, and not 
to rot. When sown in the open air the plants are more liable 
to be lost by a late frost, for there is no convenience for protect- 
ing them after they are above ground, and then the only remedy 
is to plant again. 

It is extremely difficult to speak of the varieties of the 
several classes of Melons, usually known among us as Musk 
Melons and Water Melons, on account of the great tendency to 
deterioration by cross fertilization. The pollen from one variety 
is carried to the flowers of another, and new varieties are in 
this way constantly springing up, and such is the facility with 
which this intermingling of sorts takes place, that it is almost 
impossible to keep a variety pure if any other be raised in the 
garden. The only way to get pure seed is to grow the Melon in 
a frame, and, by means of the sash, keep it well secured from 
any chance of mixture until the young Melons are set. 

Gremn Cirron.—A medium-sized Melon, with a thickly- 
netted green skin; the flesh green, thick, very juicy, and of a 


MELONS. 233 


1 


sweet and excellent flavor. It is of good constitution, and 
bears abundantly, and is one of the best sorts. 

Nourmec.—Medium-sized, roundish oval, with a pale green 
skin, which is very thickly netted; the flesh is green, very 
sweet, rich, and very highly perfumed. 

Batuey’s Ecurrsz.—This is much esteemed in England, and 
should be equally fine here. It is said to be a round, handsome 
Melon, weighing from three to four pounds, beautifully netted, 
with a pale green, rich, luscious, and melting flesh. 

THz Grove Hysri.—Another English variety, which is 
said to be truly splendid, ribbed and slightly netted, weighing 
from four to six pounds, the flesh pale green, rich and luscious. 

Larez YEtLow CantaLourg.—A large yellow-fleshed sort, 
an abundant cropper, and probably as good as any of the red or 
yellow-fleshed Melons, none of which are as sweet and high- 
flavored as the green-fleshed Melons, 

Brack Spanish Water Meton.—This is a large variety, 
having a deep red-colored flesh, and of very fine sugary flavor. 
It is very productive, has a healthy constitution, and is one of 
the best for our climate, as it matures its fruit early. 

Icz Cream.—When pure the flesh is a yellowish-white, with 
white seeds, which render it quite distinct from most other 
Water Melons. It is a prolific variety, ripening early, sweet 
and fine flavored, and well suited for our short summers. 

These varieties are probably the best for general cultivation 
in our climate, but, after all, there will be seasons every now 
and then in which even these will not ripen well, or until so 
late a period in the season that their flavor is impaired. Melon 
seeds will preserve their vitality for eight or ten years; and old 
gardeners say that seed which is four or five years old will 
produce vines which set their fruit better than those raised 
trom fresh seed. 


234 ONION. 


ONION. 


The best soil for Onions is a deep, rich, loamy, mellow soil, 
ona dry bottom. A sandy loam that is strong enough to raise 
zood crops of Corn and Potatoes will make an excellent ground 
for Onions. In selecting a place for growing this vegetable, it 
is well to choose one that has been previously well tilled with 
hoed crops and kept clean—such as has raised a fine crop of 
Beets or Carrots. The Onion is an exception to the general 
rule of rotation in crops, and not only can be grown successfully 
upon the same ground for many years in succession, but the bulbs 
are better and finer, after four or six years of cultivation with this 
crop, than during the first year. It is also necessary that the 
ground be highly manured and well prepared. 

The preparation consists in ploughing the ground deep, 
harrowing thoroughly, breaking up all the lumps, if any, and 
making it as fine and light as possible. It should be manured 
with fine, thoroughly rotted barn-yard manure, at the rate of 
twenty-five tons to the acre, and, besides this, all the cleanings 
of the pig-stye, poultry-house, and earth-closet that can be 
spared, should be worked in with the harrow. Pure ground 
bones, at the rate of a couple of tons to the acre, may be used 
every two or three years with most decided benefit. If at any 
time it is decided to grow enormous specimens, that will take 
prizes at our agricultural shows, there is nothing like a barrel or 
two of Onions, well rotted, wherewith to dress the bed in which 
it is designed to grow them. 

The surface of the ground should be finished off as nearly 
level as it can be done, and cleaned entirely of stones, sticks 
and rubbish. If it is intended to grow Onions on a large scale, 
it will be advisable to use a machine made expressly for sowing 
the seed, and which sows two rows at once, making the drills 
and sowing at the same time. If only a small garden-bed is 
required, the drills should be drawn about a foot or fifteen 


\ 


ONION, 235 


inches apart, and the seed sown thinly, so that they may be 
about one inch apart in the drill. The drills should be very 
shallow, mere scratches into which to drop the seed, and the 
covering is best done with a light roller, run over the ground 
lengthwise of the drills. 

Onion seed will germinate when two years old, but it is not 
as likely to produce as vigorous plants as fresh seed raised the 
previous summer. It is very easy to test its vitality by placing 
a few seeds upon some damp cotton or a bit of wet moss in 
a warm room; if it be fresh, it will sprout in three or four 
days. Four pounds of fresh seed will be enough to sow an 
acre with the sowing machine; and when sown in the garden 
by hand, an ounce should be enough for four hundred feet of 
drill, The seed should be sown just as early as it is possible to 
get the ground in good condition; the earliest sown yield the 
heaviest crop. 

As soon as the plants can be seen, the ground should be 
hoed carefully between the rows, and the weeds thoroughly 
cleaned out. The hoeing should be shallow, taking care not to 
draw the earth up around the plants, but to keep the ground 
level and clean. As soon as the Onions are an inch or two 
high, they should be thinned out to two inches apart in the 
row. At this distance apart they may be allowed to grow for a 
time, and the young onions used for the table or sold in the 
market, by gradually thinning out to four inches apart, until 
they begin to be too much crowded. In field culture, or where 
there is no market for these very young onions, the plants may 
be thinned out to four inches apart as soon as they are well 
established. 

Timely and thorough cultivation is of = importance to 
the success of this crop, as it is, indeed, the secret of all profit- 
able culture. If the weeds once get the start they will materially 
injure the growth of the plants, if not entirely ruin the crop; 
hence, do not let the weeds start at all, but hoe before they 
become visible. oe much time and labor will be saved, and 


236 ONION. 


the crop cultivated at far less expense than if the weeds once 
get a foot-hold. 

In wet seasons onions sometimes grow thick-necked. To 
remedy this, growers are in the habit of gently bending down 
the tops, late in July, with the hoe handle, which checks their 
growth and makes them form better bulbs. 

In August, or early in September, the onions will be ripe, 
which is indicated by the dying off of the tops. They may 
now be pulled or raked out, and left spread out to dry in the 
sun for two or three weeks, by which time they are ready for 
market or storing for winter use. In keeping them over winter, 
it is safest to place them where they will be free from frost, yet 
it is also necessary that they be kept cool and dry, with plenty 
of ventilation. They do not keep well in ordinary cellars; these 
are usually too close and damp, and too warm. The writer 
makes a practice of keeping them in a cold chamber, the floor of 
which is covered to the depth of a foot or more with perfectly 
dry soil. Upon this the Onions are laid six to eight inches deep, 
and some of this dry soil thrown over them, covering them to 
the depth of about six inches. This soil has remained in this 
chamber for many years, and is therefore perfectly dry, and 
although the frost penetrates the chamber, yet the dry earth 
seems to be a sufficient protection to the onions, It has never 
been renewed or changed, the same earth being used year after 
year. After being placed in this chamber, and covered with 
the dry earth, the Onions are never disturbed until they are 
wanted in the spring, when they always come out quite fresh 
and sound. 

Market gardeners, who find it to their advantage to supply 
the market with early Onions of good size in the green state, grow 
them from “sets.” These sets are raised from seed the year pre- 
vious, wintered over, and planted out as early as possible in the 
spring. To obtain the sets, which are very small onions, a poor 
piece of ground is selected ; this is ploughed and harrowed, and 
thoroughly pulverized in the manner already described, but no 
manure is applied. After getting the ground as fine and smooth 


ONION. 237 


as possible, the seed is sown in drills about nine inches apart, and 
sown very thick, so that the Onions shall grow as small as possible ; 
there is no danger of their being too small; the smallest will make 
as fine Onions next year as the largest, while if they are more than 
half an inch in diameter there is danger that they will not increase 
in size but run to seed. .As soon as these little Onions get ripe, 
usually in August, they are pulled up, spread out and dried, and 
stored away where they will keep cool and dry, and be protected 
from severe frost, the same as any other Onion. 

Early in the spring, as soon as the ground can be nicely 
worked, the beds for planting these sets are got ready by thorough 
pulverizing and heavy manuring with all the well-rotted barn-yard 
manure and bone dust that can be spared. Seventy-five tons of 
fine barn-yard manure to the acre is not found to be any too liberal 
a dressing, which should not be buried deep, but worked into the 
surface of the soil. The sets are planted in this bed in rows nine 
inches apart and three inches apart in the row, by pressing each 
firmly into the soil just deep enough to be covered. After the ° 
bed is planted, the roller should be drawn over it, so as to press 
the soil firmly around the bulbs. As soon as the Onions show 
themselves above ground enough to distinguish the rows, the hoe 
should be run between them, and the ground between the onions 
broken up with the fingers. This will destroy the young weeds, 
and give the plants a good start, so that with a couple more such 
hoeings they will be large enough for market early in June, and 
the ground cleared of them in time for a crop of Cauliflower or 
late Cabbage. In the vicinity of large cities this is found to be 
a profitable mode of cultivation. 

In raising onions from seed, it is important to procure Amer- 
ican-grown seed. For some reason European seed, whether from 
Great Britain or the continent, often fails to form good, solid 
bulbs. Some varieties are not grown from seed, such as the Tree 
or Top Onion and the Potato Onion, but by planting the bulbs. 
The following varieties are selected as being the most worthy of 
attention in our climate. 

Wearuersrietp Lance Rep.—The skin of this variety is a 


238 ONION. 


deep purplish red, neck of medium thickness, the flesh of a pur- 
plish white, tolerably fine grained, and with a strong flavor. It 
is very productive, grows to a large size, and is much valued on 
account of its excellent keeping qualities, which make it a suit- 
able sort for shipping to distant markets. 

Yetitow Onton.—This also is a valuable and popular market 
sort. Much confusion has arisen by reason of its having been 
called “ Silver Skin” by New England growers, thus confound- 
ing it with a medium sized variety having a silvery white skin, 
grown for pickling, but which is a poor keeper. The true Yellow 
Onion is above medium size, skin yellowish-brown, deepening in 
color by age or long exposure to the sun; the flesh white, 
fine grained and mild flavored. It yields large crops, the bulbs 
being of uniform good size, with very small necks, and keeping 
well. “a 

Danvers YELLOw.—A sort of sub-variety of the old Yellow 
Onion, more globular in form, having a yellowish-brown skin, 
that becomes greenish-brown if long exposed to the sun; the 
flesh is white and mild flavored. It also is an excellent cropper, 
but has not the reputation of being as good a keeper as the old 
Yellow. 

Sitver-skin.—This is the sort that is so much used for pick- 
ling, and, when full grown, is a very handsome, medium-sized 
bulb. To grow them for pickling, the seed should be sown thick, 
on not very rich soil, so that the bulbs may be small. The 
outer skin is silvery-white, hence the name ; the neck small, the 
flesh white, sweet, very mild flavored, and fine grained. It pro- 
duces good crops of uniform-sized bulbs, and is a very agreeable 
variety for home use, but unfortunately it isa very poor keeper 
in our climate. , 

Potato Ownion.—Very desirable ‘for home use on account of 
its very mild, sugary, and excellent flavor. In the estimation of 
the writer it is the most agreeable of all the Onions. The bulbs 
are of medium size, sometimes large, with a coppery-yellow skin. 
Tt does not produce seed, but multiplies under ground, hence the 
name potato-onion. To obtain large-sized bulbs for the table, the 


ONION. 239 


small bulbs from the previous year are planted very early in the 
spring, as early as possible, in soil 
prepared and well manured in the 
manner already described. These 
are set in rows a foot apart and five 
inches apart in the row, and by 
the middle of summer will have 
increased to fine-sized bulbs, after 
the manner of onion sets. To in- 
crease the quantity of bulbs, the 
large bulbs are planted in the Hg 88. 

same way and at the same time; these will subdivide, forming 
usually one, and frequently two, large bulbs, and a numb of 
smaller bulbs. They do not keep as easily as the Weathersfield 
Red and Large Yellow, but, buried in dry soil in the manner 
already mentioned, we have found no difficulty in keeping them 
through the winter. 

Top on Trex Onion.—This sort derives its name from the 
singular manner in which it multiplies, producing on the top of 
the stalk, instead of flowers and seeds, small Onions. These little 
Onions are kept over winter, and treated in all respects the same 
as onion sets, planting them in the spring and using them in the 
green state during summer. To 
obtain the little Onions, some of 
the large bulbs must be allowed to 
ripen, and be kept over winter ; 

_ in the spring they should be plan- 
ted in rows about fifteen inches 
apart, and ten inches apart in the 
row. These will throw up a stalk 
in the summer, upon the top of 
which the little bulbs will be 
formed. Some market gardeners 
use this variety instead of growing 

“Onion “sets,” in the manner de- 


240 PARSNIP. 


ciribed above. We have not been favorably impressed with 
the quality of this variety for the table, and have found it not 
to keep well through the winter. 


PARSNIP. 


In selecting ground for the growing of Parsnips, it is very 
desirable to obtain land that last year was very highly manured, 
and thoroughly and deeply worked. It delights in a deep, rich, 
well pulverized soil, of a sandy or light loamy texture, and forms 
smoother and better roots when the enriching has been done the 
year previous, and the manure in this way thoroughly incor- 
porated with the soil. Ifthe manure be applied the same season, 
it should be such as has become most thoroughly decomposed. 
Coarse manures cause the roots to branch and fork, and become 
very rough and uneven, and sometimes it has seemed as though 
the flavor was affected also. 

The seed may be sown as early in the season as the ground 
can be prepared, which preparation is thesame asfor carrots or beets. 
The sowing should be done as evenly as possible, yet thickly, in 
drills about sixteen inches apart. The seed will germinate more 
quickly if it be soaked in warm water for a few hours before 
planting. None but seed of the previous summer’s growth should 
be used, as it can not be depended upon after it isa year old. After 
the plants are well started, they should be thinned out to about 
six inches apart in the row. They should be hoed and kept clean 
in the same manner as carrots. : 

As frosts do not injure the Parsnip, the roots can be left in 
the ground all winter, and by spreading a few leaves or evergreen 
boughs over a part of the bed before the ground freezes, the frost 
may be prevented from penetrating to such a depth as to hinder 
digging, and the roots taken up as wanted. In many parts 
of the country the snow falls, before the ground is frozen, to such 
a depth as to give all the protection needed. The roots retain 
their flavor better when left in the ground. Yet, sometimes it 


POTATO. 241 


is necessary to store a limited quantity in the cellar for winter 
use. In taking the roots out of the ground, care should be used. 
not to cut or break them, for those that are whole retain their 
freshness and flavor much better than those that are broken or 
cut with the spade. By digging a trench close beside the row 
as deep as the roots extend, they can be easily taken out without 
injury. After digging they should be allowed to dry a few hours 
in the open air, the leaves all removed, and then packed in fresh 
earth in the cellar or root house. This is a favorite vegetable 
with most persons. Boiled and served with butter, or sliced, 
dipped in batter and then fried, it is most delicious for table use. 
The farmer will also find it avery valuable root for his farm 
stock, more nutritious than Turnips or White Carrots, and one 
that they will eat with great relish. 

The varieties of the Parsnip do not seem to be as marked as 
in most other vegetables. Soil and season seem to make more 
difference with it than variety. 

Tue Lone Hortow Crown is thought to grow more smooth 
and regular, and to be of a finer and sweeter flavor than the com- 
mon Dutch or Guernsey. 

Tue StupEnt was obtained from the Wild Parsnip, through 
successive sowings by Prof. Buckman, of the Royal Agricultural 
College at Cirencester. We have grown what we obtained for 
this variety, which has been recommended as being peculiarly 
sweet, mild and pleasant, but failed to find in it any qualities 
which make it superior to the Hollow Crown. 


POTATO. 


It is not necessary to give Canadians any instructions in 
growing potatoes. Every farmer’s boy knows that the best soil 
for this most common and important vegetable is a light loam, 
that is in good tilth and well drained, though potatoes can be 
raised on heavier soils, especially if they are dry. He also knows 
that the very best manure is a good clover sod turned under with 


242 ‘ POTATO, 


all the top that might grow between haying and the end of 
August—the more the better. If this be cross-ploughed in the 
spring and well harrowed, it will make a splendid piece of ground 
for potatoes, much better than can be obtained by manuring a 
piece that has been under the plough for a long time. 

It has long been a vexed question whether it is better to 
plant potatoes whole or in pieces, large tubers or small, and which 
produce the best crop. The question is not fully settled yet, 
but perhaps the experiments of those who have raised fine crops 
of potatoes without planting the potato at all, may help to throw 
some light on this subject. When the celebrated Bresee’s Pota- 
toes were first introduced, we mean the Early Rose, Bresee’s 
Prolific, &c., such was the anxiety to get them, that good-sized 
tubers were sold at fifty dollars each, and when they became 
more plenty, at a dollar per pound. In order to supply this 
demand as speedily as possible, a hot-bed was prepared in the 
early spring, and a potato cut in two, lengthwise, and laid with 
the cut side down upon the soil and the sash kept closed. As 
soon as the sprouts were long enough, say a couple of inches, 
they were cut off, leaving a part adhering to the potato, and 
planted out in the hot-bed. The portion of the sprout remaining 
attached to the potato after a while sent out new shoots, which 
were in turn cut off in the same way and planted out. Those 
that were planted out in the hot-bed soon struck root and grew, 
and when they became long enough the tops of these were cut 
off, or as a gardener would say “headed back,” and planted out. 
In this way, by multiplying cuttings and enlarging the hot-bed 
room as needed, a great many thousand rooted cuttings were 
obtained, and these, when the weather became suitable, were 
planted out in the open ground, and in due process of time grew 
and produced tubers, which were as large and fine as those pro- 
duced from whole or cut Potatoes. 

From this we learn that potatoes may be raised from cuttings 
of the sprouts alone, without planting any part of the potato, 
and that in all probability it is of most importance to plant 


POTATO, 243 


healthy, perfectly-ripened tubers in suitable soil, and these are 
usually those of medium size of the variety. 

After the Potatoes appear above ground, they require to be 
kept clean with hoe and cultivator, and the custom is to draw 
the earth gradually to the plant, until quite a hill or ridge is 
made. Some, however, advise deeper, planting, about eight 
inches, and level cultivation, claiming that in this way a larger 
proportion of large potatoes is obtained, and that if the tops 
are cut down by late spring frosts, the part of the stalk below 
the surface will send up new shoots, and save the crop, only it 
will be later in ripening. 

Some gardeners are very desirous of securing a few very 
early potatoes, and to accomplish this end have recourse to 
forcing. This is done by making a good bottom of manure, 
about two feet deep; upon this is spread good rich soil to 
the depth of eighteen inches; then the potatoes are placed upon 
the earth, and four inches more in depth spread over them. 
This will leave the top of the ground inside of the frame from 
six to eight inches below the sash. As soon as the tops appear 
above the surface, they will need the usual attention of airing 
by day and covering at night, until the weather has become 
setiled, and danger from cold storms is over. 

New varieties are raised by sowing the seed contained in the 
potato balls, which grow on the tops. We have ‘seen very fine- 
sized tubers raised from seed sown in the spring, though it is 
more common to gather only small tubers the first ‘year. 
From these tubers a crop of Potatoes will be had in the autumn 
of the second year, and from this crop an opinion may be 
formed of the productiveness, size and quality of the new 
seedling sorts. 

There are a great many varieties in cultivation, but it is 
quite foreign to our purpose to enter into a description of any 
more than those which are more especially regarded as garden 
varieties. 

AsH-Leavep Kipney.— A small, smooth-skinned, white- 


244 POTATO. 


fleshed sort, one of the earliest, and long grown by gardeners 
as a forcing variety, but of no account except for its earliness. 

Earty Hanpsworto.—This has the reputation of being 
a very early sort, with dwarf-growing tops, and also most 
productive and fine-flavored. The tubers are round, white, and 
of medium size. It will probably prove a good variety for 
forcing. 

Earty Goopricu.—An early and prolific variety, but which 
in our grounds is of decidedly inferior quality. It is a white 
potato, oblong in form, tapering somewhat towards one end. 
In other places the quality may be better, as soil has much to do 
with the quality of all varieties. 

Earty Rosz.—With us this has proved to be the best of all 
the early sorts, of good size, very prolific, cooking dry and 
floury, and of fine flavor. 

Waitt Pzach Brow.—An excellent late variety, color 
white, with pink blotches about the eye; dry, mealy, and of 
good flavor. It is usually healthy and very productive. 

With the Early Handsworth, Early Rose and White Peach, 
Blow, a continuous supply of choice potatoes may be had the whole 
year through; yet there are other sorts already announced in 
seedsmen’s lists, and others yet to come, some of which will in 
time supplant the varieties of to-day, for the potatoes of thirty’ 
years ago are not those now most esteemed. This change is 
a law of nature, and “passing away” is written upon all her 
works. All sorts sustain their nutritious qualities best if cooked 
with the skins on. When boiled, they are placed over the 
fire in cold water sufficient to cover them, and, as the water 
boils, a little more cold water is added to check the boiling, 
so that the potato may be cooked through without bursting. 
As soon as they are soft, the water is poured off, and the kettle 
allowed to stand over the fire long enough to allow the moisture 
to evaporate. This is said to be the very best method of 
boiling potatoes. 


PEAS 245 


PEAS. 


.Judging from the quality of the Peas one finds on the tables 
of our hotels, particularly in rural towns and villages, but few of 
our people know what Green Peas really are. It would seem as 
though, as a people, we are content to supply our tables with the 
field Peas which we grow for our swine, and put up with these 
dry, flavorless things, when we might just as well have those 
that are sweet, rich, and delicious. We hope that our readers, 
who so far honor us as to look into these pages, will give some 
of the varieties of table Peas which we shall mention a trial, and 
if they have never used any other than the field Peas for their 
table, we feel assured they will thank us for calling their atten- 
tion to these far preferable varieties. _ 

The best soil for Peas is one that is light and rich, partaking 
more of the sandy character than of the clayey. Yetthey may be 
grown on any soil that is well worked to a good depth, and well 
drained below. It is not desirable to manure ground for Peas the 
same season they are planted ; the fresh manure causes the Pca 
to produce vine more abundantly than Peas. For this reason it is 
better to select a piece of ground that was well manured the pre- 
vious year, and sow the Peas as soon as possible after the frost is 
out of the ground. They may be sown in rows, the space 
between the rows varying according to the growth of vine of the 
variety sown, leaving nearly as many feet between the rows as is the 
ordinary height of the vine. This is necessary, to give room for the 
vines where they are not supported by brush or stakes, and that 
is now quite an unnecessary labor, since the introduction of short- 
growing sorts of the flavor and sweetness of the best Marrowfats. 
It is well to sow them in drills about four inches deep ; sown at 
this depth they suffer less from dry weather, to which we are 
frequently subject. The shorter growing sorts will be sown 
thickly, the taller should be sown thinner, decreasing the quantity 
of seed as the height to which the vine grows increases. As soon 


246 PEAS. 


as they appear above ground they will require to have the soil 
stirred with hoe or cultivator, and the weeds kept in subjection. 
This should be kept up until they take possession of the ground, 
which they will soon do. It is a good practice to soak the seed 
in a little tepid water for four or five hours before sowing ; this 
helps forward their germination, and enables them to appear 
sooner above ground. Peas are not to be depended upon to grow 
after they are two years old. By sowing a few every fortnight 
until the first of June, they may be had in succession for a long 
time. To enjoy Green Peas in perfection, they should be 
gathered when about three-fourths of their full size, and cooked 
the same day they are taken from the vines. It is often com- 
pulsory on those who live in the cities to use Peas that have been 
picked, perhaps, for two or three days, and, as they measure bet- 
ter when full grown, often when they are'too large ; but those. 
who can gather them from their own garden ought to have them 
when at their best, and cooked when fresh gathered. 

There are many really good varieties, but we mention only a 
few which seem best adapted to our wants. 

MoLazan’s Littinz Geu.—A green wrinkled marrow, combin- 
ing the excellence of the late wrinkled Peas with early maturity, 
The habit is dwarf, not usually more than a foot in height, and 
very prolific. The Peas have the delicious sweetness and flavor 
of the tall-growing wrinkled sorts. 

McLezan’s Apvanour.—A dwarf blue wrinkled marrow, also 
of excellent flavor. The vines grow about two feet high, and 
are abundant croppers. They may be sown in rows eighteen 
inches apart, and require no brush or stakes. 

With these two varieties alone one may enjoy the most de- 
licious Green Peas for a long time. If desired to have some late 
Green Peas, the Little Gem will yield a crop if sown about the 
middle of August. 

Dantet O’Rource.—tThis is a favorite early sort, especially 
among market gardeners. It should be sown in rows about two 
and a half feet apart, on account of its length of vine. It is of 
hardy constitution, and very prolific, 


PEPPERS. 247 


Campion or Enetanp.—One of the tall-growing sorts, 
usually about five feet high, but long known as one of the finest 
quality. Its great length of vine is a serious inconvenience, and 
it is doomed to be crowded out by some of the shorter-growing, 
and therefore, more manageable varieties. 

Laxton’s AupHa.—A new sort that we have not grown, but 
is highly commended by others, as the earliest blue wrinkled 
marrow, being earlier than McLean’s Little Gem, and wonder- 
fully productive. It is said to be a cross between Laxton’s 
Prolific and McLean's Advancer. It grows about three feet high. 

McLean’s Wonperrut.—Another new wrinkled marrow, 
growing about three feet high, of robust habit, very prolific, ant 
said to be of excellent flavor. 

‘We name these new sorts, believing they will prove to be valua- 
ble varieties with us, not growing so tall as to require supports, 
and possessing the richness and delicacy of flavor so much 
desired. 


PEPPERS 


Being naturally tropical plants, it is necessary to start the 
plants in a hot-bed, or in the house, in order to give them a 
longer season than they could have when sown in the open 
ground, The seed is sown thinly, and about half an inch deep, 
in the month of April, and the plants cared for in the same man- 
ner as Tomato plants. When the weather has become settled, 
and frosts no longer feared, the plants should be set out in the 
open ground, choosing a light, warm soil, with a sunny aspect, 
and planting them in rows eighteen inches apart, and twelve 
inches between the plants in the row. 

In some places they are grown extensively for pickle manu- 
facturers, and sold to them by weight. When grown for this 
purpose, they are usually planted in rows about two feet apart, 
and the plants fifteen inches apart in the row. The thick-fleshed 
varieties are preferred for this use, and these usually yield’ about 
three tons to the acre. 


248 RADISHES. 


The principal use of Peppers in this country is for pickling 
or for flavoring other pickles. They are used in the green state, 
an opening being made in the side of the pod, the seeds taken 
out, and the pods soaked in salt and water for twenty-four 
hours, changing the water after they have lain in it for twelve 
hours. They are then drained, put into jars, and covered with 
cold boiled vinegar. The jars are tightly closed, and after 
remaining in this condition for three or four weeks, the Peppers 
will be ready for use. 

The ripe pods may be dried in a moderately heated oven, 
then pulverized, and sifted through a fine sieve, first taking out 
the seeds, and then tightly corked in glass bottles. This will 
make as pleasant a Pepper as the Cayenne of commerce, without 
the admixture of red lead with which it is often adulterated. 

Brit Pepper.—The pods of this variety are very large, and 
when ripe, of a glossy, bright coral-red. It is early, thick- 
fleshed, less acrid than most of the other sorts, and much used 
as a pickle. 

Lone Rep Prprer.—The form of the pods is long and 
conical, when ripe of a brilliant red, thin fleshed, and exceed- 
ingly acrid. It is an excellent variety from which to make 
a domestic Cayenne pepper. 

Squash Prrrer.—In form something like a Tomato, with a 
smooth glossy skin, brilliant coral-red when ripe, with a thick 
skin, less acrid than the Long Red, but hotter than the Bell. 

Sweet Spaniso.—One of the largest and also one of the 
earliest, color brilliant scarlet, and the flesh of a mild pleasant 
flavor. Makes excellent pickles. 


RADISHES. 


The soil for these should be a light sandy loam, dry and 
warm, especially for very early crops; later in the season it 
should be also deep, that it may be moist. Those who desire 
to enjoy Radishes as early as possible, can grow them in a hot- 


RADISHES. 249 


bed having a very gentle bottom heat, giving them plenty of 
air in fine weather, and watering with tepid water. The seed 
may also be sown in some sunny spot in the open ground, 
sheltered if possible from the colder winds, as soon as the 
weather becomes balmy in spring. The excellence of this vege- 
table consists in its being crisp, tender and mild; and these 
requisites can only be secured by a quick growth. When 
the hot weather of summer sets in, the Radish is apt to be too 
pungent to be agreeable, and is better flavored at this time if 
grown as much in the shade as possible. 

The seed is sometimes sown broadcast, but more commonly 
in drills about half an inch deep and six inches apart. After 
the plants are up they should be thinned, so as to stand about 
an inch apart. The seed will keep its vitality well for three 
years, but after that time is not to be relied upon. It is a very 
common practice to sow Radishes among Beets, or Onions, or 
Cabbage, as the crop is taken off before they can interfere with 
these later vegetables, and in this way ground is economized. 
Early Radishes command a quick sale in our town and city 
markets, The chief labor connected with their cultivation is 
that of cleaning and bunching them for sale, which, by the 
way, is no small item. 

There are a great many varieties, but the following are quite 
sufficient and the most desirable :— 

Frenco Breagrast.—An excellent variety for forcing in 
hot-beds, olive-shaped, scarlet with white tip, very tender, 
pleasant flavored and handsome. 

Rose Ourve-SHaPep.—This is a very fine early variety, 
oval in form, skin deep rose color, flesh tender and excellent. 

Love Soartet SHort Tor.—A favorite market sort, suitable 

- for. open garden culture, color deep pink, flesh white, crisp and 
mild flavored ; usually about six inches in length when in its 
best condition for the table. 

CuinesE Rose Winter.—The best winter Radish. The 
root is cylindrical in form, terminating abruptly in a slender tap- 


250 RHUBARB. 


root, and of a bright rose color. The flesh is firm, breaking, and 
generally of a pleasant mild flavor, much less pungent than the 
Black Spanish, and far more pleasing in appearance. 


should be sown about the first of August, in 
light, friable, yet rich soil, and the plants 
thinned out to about six inches apart in the 
row. They may be used during the month of 
October as wanted, but when cold weather 
approaches they should be taken up and stored 
in fresh soil in a cool cellar or root-house, 
where they can be had for use at any time 
during the winter. We have kept this variety 
packed in this manner in the root-house in fine 
condition until April. If the weather in Sep- 
tember is hot and dry for any length of time, 
the winter radishes will usually be more pungent 
Fig. 65, than if the weather be showery. 


RHUBARB. 


The Rhubarb, or Pie Plant, as it is very commonly called, 
grows well in any rich soil free from stagnant water, and responds 
most bountifully to generous culture. Indeed it seems to be 
scarcely possible to get the ground too rich, and regular annual 
top dressings of manure are needed to bring out strong and broad 
leaf-stalks. It is for these leaf-stalks that it is cultivated, and 
these are used in various ways, chiefly in the making of pies and 
tarts, or, when stewed, as a sauce. They are best when young, 
early in the spring, and are prepared by peeling off the outside 
skin, cutting them up in slices, and stewing in a saucepan with 
plenty of sugar and very little water. 

It is propagated by divisions of the root, which are planted in 
soil that has been prepared by deep ploughing and abundant 
manuring. In the spring of each year’a heavy coat of manure 


The seed of this, and of all winter Radishes, — 


‘ 


SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT. 251 


should be spread on the surface of the ground around the plants. 
When new varieties are wanted they may be obtained by sowing 
seed. Some of the plants will be good, which may be selected 
and planted out, and the remainder thrown away. It will require 
three years to raise plants from seed that will give stalks fit for 
use, while those from divisions of the roots, leaving an eye or 
bud upon each piece, will yield stalks fit for use In one year. 

It is a perfectly hardy plant, but will start earlier in spring if 
covered in the fall with a little coarse litter to keep out the 
intense frost; and as a great part of the comfort, and to those 
who cultivate for market, the profit, of growing the Rhubarb, is 
to have the stalks for use as early as possible, a litile labor 
bestowed in the fall in protecting it from severe frosts is amply 
repaid. Where the snow falls before the ground freezes and 
remains all winter, keeping the frost out entirely, or nearly so, 
such fall covering will not be needed. A plantation once formed 
and properly cared for will last for fifteen years. 

The best varieties are the following : 

Myarr’s Linyaus.—Is early, very productive, has a fine 
spicy flavor and is moderately acid. ; 

Myarr’s" Victor1s.—Of large size, and is the variety chiefly 
depended upon by market gardeners for the main crop. Not so 
early as Linnzeus, but larger and yielding a much greater weight 
per acre. 


SALSIFY or OYSTER PLANT. 


The Vegetable Oyster is a perfectly hardy plant, enduring 
our winters without protection as perfectly as the Parsnip. 
When cooked, the flavor much resembles that of the Oyster, and 
it is very much relished by nearly every one. It is coming rapidly 
into more general use, and in some places largely cultivated for 
market, finding a ready sale. 

A light mellow soil, such as that in which Carrots are grown, 
suits it best, and A should be pulverized and enriched in pre- 


252 SQUASH. 


cisely the same manner as for Carrots. The seed should be sown 
early in spring, in drills about fourteen inches apart and about 
an inch deep, and; when the plants are fairly started, should be 
thinned out to about five inches apart in the row. It is not 
safe to trust to seed that is more than two years old. 

The cultivation is the same as that of Beets or Carrots, keep- 
ing the ground well stirred and free from weeds. : In October the 
roots will have grown to their full size, and may be used as 
desired for table or market. "When severe weather approaches, a 
few may be covered with leaves or straw, to keep out the frost, so 
that they can be obtained for use during the winter, or they may 
be taken up and packed in fresh earth in a cool root-cellar. The 
remainder may be allowed to remain unprotected until spring, 
when they can be taken up as soon as the frost is out, and used 
or sent to market. 

They are prepared for the table by slightly scraping the roots 
then they are cut in thin slices, and boiled in a very little 
water, seasoned with salt, until tender. When thus cooked, 
cream is poured in, with a little cod-fish picked fine, and the 
whole allowed to boil up, when it is ready to be dished for the 
table. The cod-fish, if used very moderately, greatly increases 
the oyster-like flavor, for which this vegetable is so much 
esteemed. Some boil the roots entire until quite tender, then 
grate fine, make into balls, then dip in batter made of white of 
eggs beaten up with a little flour, roll in grated cracker or bread 
crumbs, and fry in a pan until brown. 


SQUASH. 


This common and useful vegetable may pe grown in any soil 
that is well drained and rich. The seed should not be sown until 
warm weather has fairly set in, and the danger of frost passed, 
for the seeds will rot if the ground be cold, and a slight frost 
kills the young plants. When the soil is in good tilth, we have 
grown them as we do Pumpkins, among the Corn, but the better 


SQUASH. 253 


way is to grow them by themselves, mixing a couple of shovelsful 
of well-rotted manure with the soil in each hill. For the bush 
varieties the hills may be three feet apart each way, but the run- 
ning kinds will require not less than six. 

It is well to prepare the hill by stirring and loosening the 
soil to the depth of about eight inches, raising it a couple of inches 
above the general surface of the ground, and making it some 
eighteen inches broad. In this hill plant a dozen seeds, for 
though three or four plants will be sufficient, there are so many 
enemies to devour the young plants, that what with cut-worms, 
squash bugs, striped bugs, and all sorts of bugs, the cultivator 
will possibly not have more than three or four vigorous plants 
left. Should more than that number escape, it is a very 
easy matter to pull out the surplus. The cultivation will consist 
in keeping the ground free from weeds and occasionally stirring 
the soil in the hill around the plants. The more rapidly they 
can be made to grow during the first week or two of their life, 
the sooner will they be out of danger from their insect foes. The 
seeds retain their germinating powers for a long time, and may 
be expected to grow even when six or eight years old. 

The Squash is prepared for the table by simply boiling it in 
water until quite soft, it is then mashed, the water strained out 
by pressing in a colander, and then it is seasoned with pepper, 
salt and butter, or cream, to suit the taste. There is an endless 
list of varieties, and these are multiplying continually. It is 
in fact difficult to keep any variety pure, if more than one be 
grown in the garden, so easily do they mix and cross with each 
other. We have been best suited with those named below. 

Summer Croox-Necx.—This is the best flavored of all the 
summer Squashes, though none of them are equal in delicacy 
and sweetness to the later sorts. It is a bush variety, the fruit 
crook-necked, color yellow, skin thin, covered with warty excres- 
cences, and fit for use only while the skin is tender and easily 
broken with the nail. As it ripens, the rind becomes hard, and 
the flesh watery and coarse. 


254 SQUASH. 


Yetiow Buss Scattorep.—A very early sort, and on that 
account and its productiveness largely grown for market. It is 
not as sweet and rich as the Summer Crook-Neck, and like it 
must be used before the rind becomes hard. 

Autumnat Marrow.—-Anexcellent autumn Squash, frequently 
known by-the name of Boston Marrow. It is about nine inches 
in length by seven in diameter, somewhat oval in shape, with 
large, fleshy stem, skin thin, orange-yellow when fully ripe, the flesh 
salmon-yellow, dry, fine-grained, rich, sweet and excellent. If 
carefully gathered without bruising, and stored ina cool, dry, airy 
place, free from frost, they will keep all through the winter. 
In a damp cellar they are sure to rot. This is a running sort, 
and requires to be planted in hills six or eight feet apart. There 
is a bush variety much resembling this in appearance, smaller 
in size, requiring a 
shorter season in which 
tomature, keeping well 
in winter, though not 
as fine flavored, which 
may be substituted for 
this in those parts of 
the Dominion where 
the season is found to 
be too short for the 
running sort. 

Canapa Croox-NEcK.—We esteem this to be the best of all 
the crook-neck Squashes. It is small when grown unmixed with 
other sorts, weighing not more than about five pounds. The color 
is light yellow, flesh orange yellow, fine-grained, sweet, dry and of 
excellent flavor. We have found no trouble in keeping this 
variety through the winter, provided only that it be not kept in 
a damp place, but dry and free from frost. It is a very prolific 
variety, matures well in our climate, and is deserving of cultiva- 
tion anywhere, 

Husparv.—Without question the very best’ winter Squash, 


Fig. 66. 


SEA—KALE, 255 


and, when it can be obtained pure, will not fail to give satisfac- 
tion to the most fastidious, The Squash is. somewhat oval in 
shape, about ten inches long and seven-broad, and weighs about 
eight pounds. The shell is very hard, color greenish olive or 
bluish green, in this somewhat variable ; the flesh is a rich 
orange-yellow, very fine-grained, dry, sweet and delicious, 
We have no trouble in keeping it through the winter in a dry, 
frost-proof cellar. It requires plenty of TOM; say about eight 
feetapart each way between é 
the hills, and as it needs 
the whole season in the 
most favorable parts of 
Ontario, it will no doubt 
be well to give it a warm 
soil and warm aspect in 
the colder parts of the 
Dominion. Tie. 67. 

Yorousama.—This is said to mature earlier than the Hubbard, 
and to be nearly as good. We have not grown it, but if it 
be found difficult to mature the Hubbard in any of our colder 
sections, it would be well to give this a trial, as it has the repu- 
tation of being fine fleshed, sweet and excellent. 


SEA-KALE. 


Our climate is so severe during winter, that it 1s not as favor- 
able to the cultivation of this vegetable as the more open climate 
of England, where it is cultivated in every gentleman’s garden, 
and also largely grown for market. We do not advise our farmers 
to attempt its culture; it does not repay the labor and care re- 
quisite for its production as a market vegetable, and we mention 
it here for the guidance of those who are willing to be at the 
necessary labor and expense, for the sake of having it on their 
tables for a short time in spring. We cannot have it all through 
the winter, as in England, unless we cultivate it under glass, 


256 SEA—KALE. 


and it is only in spring, after the weather has begun to moderate, 
that we can hope to get up heat enough to start it into growth. 

A bed of Sea-Kale is started either by procuring the plants 
from some gardener, or by raising them from seed. Some sow 
the seed where the plants are intended to remain, but the better 
way is to prepare a small bed in which the seed is to be sown, 
and grow the plants for a year in this bed. The seed cannot be 
relied upon after it is two years old. The bed should be 
prepared by making the soil fine and rich, and the seed sown 
thinly in drills about an inch deep and a foot apart. The plants 
should be thinned out to about an inch apart as soon as they 
appear, and when they are well established, thinned again to 
three inches apart. During the summer the ground should be 
frequently stirred and kept free from weeds. In autumn the 
plants should be covered with five or six inches of earth and 
some coarse litter. 

The next spring, as soon as the ground can be worked, a 
piece of deep, rich, sandy soil should be selected, ploughed and 
subsoiled to the depth of fifteen inches. Upon this the plants 
should be set out in rows three feet apart, and two feet apart in 
the row. In planting, the crowns should be set not less than 
two inches below the surface. During the summer the ground 
must be kept clean by frequent hoeings, and if dry weather 
sets in, the plants will need watering. The plants must not be 
allowed to run up to seed, but the seed stalks kept cut down as 
often as they appear. At the approach of winter, the ground 
should be covered to such a depth with coarse manure, or leaves 
or straw, as will keep out the frost. Salt is a good fertilizer for 
this vegetable, strewn over the ground in the spring in moderate 
quantity. : 

After the weather becomes mild, usually towards the end of 
March, the covering should be removed. from as many plants as 
it is desired to force into early growth, and a twelve-inch flower- 
pot inverted over each plant; or, instead of pots, we have some- 
times seen boxes used. Over these pots or boxes fermenting 


SPINACH. 257 


manure should be heaped to such a depth as to generate a heat 
of between fifty and sixty degrees, which will usually require 
about two feet in depth of manure. It is usually recommended 
to mix leaves and fresh stable manure in equal quantities, but it 
is not always possible to get the dry leaves, and not at all 
necessary. Care must be taken in placing the pots or boxes 
over the plants, that all holes are closely stopped, and the rims 
sunk in the soil, so as to prevent the entrance of any rank 
vapors from the fermenting manure. In from four to six weeks, 
the plants will probably have grown up inside the boxes or pots 
some six or eight inches in length, when the shoots may be cut 
for use. After cutting away the sprouts fit for use, the crowns 
may be covered with fresh soil to the depth of three or four 
inches, the pots replaced, and the manure, etc., replaced as 
before. In this way another cutting may be had from the 
same plants. When done cutting, the greater part of the 
manure should be taken off, and the remainder worked into the 
bed as a dressing. 

The plants which are not forced in this way should be 
covered early in the spring with ten or twelve inches of sand or 
other light soil. The sprouts growing up through this will 
be blanched, though it is thought that the flavor is not quite 
equal to that of the plants which have been forced. 

It is prepared for the table by boiling for about twenty min- 
utes, in water that has been seasoned with salt, when it is taken 
up, laid upon toasted bread, and drawn butter poured over it. It 
is used as a substitute for Asparagus or Cauliflower, and those 
who are fond of either of these will enjoy a good dish of Sea 
Kale. 


SPINACH. 


Any good garden soil, that has been well enriched, will grow 
Spinach. Itshould be well pulverized with plough and harrow, 
or spade and rake, just as early in the spring as possible, and 
liberally dressed with well rotted manure. The seed should be 


258 SPINACH. 


sown as soon as the ground can be got ready, in shallow drills, 
about half an inch deep and nine inches apart. Sowing should 
be repeated at intervals of a fortnight, in order to keep up a suc- 
cession for use. The seed retains its vitality for several years, 
and may be safely used when three years old. 

It does not require any special cultivation, other than stirring 
the soil and keeping the weeds down, and the crop is usually fit 
for use in five or six weeks. The young plants should be thinned 
out so that they will stand about nine inches apart, and the later 
thinnings may be used as greens. Unless the individual plants 
have plenty of room they will run up at once to seed. 

The earliest crops are obtained by sowing seed in September, 
in rich soil well prepared, thinning out the plants to six or nine 
inches apart, and, on the approach of winter, covering them 
thinly with straw, so that they may have a slight protection. 
This covering will not be needed where the snow falls before 
the ground is frozen and remains until spring. In the spring the 
covering is removed, and the plants thinned out as they increase 
in size, until the whole crop is used or marketed, which will 
usually be early in May, quite in time to use the ground for some 
other crop, such as Cabbage, Cauliflower, &c. When well 
grown, the leaves of Winter Spinach will measure two feet in 
circumference. 

The leaves are the part that is used. These are rinsed in 
clean water, and boiled in the least possible amount of water, 
which has been seasoned with salt. They will be cooked in 
about fifteen or twenty minutes, when they should be placed in 
a colander, the water drained carefully off, and then seasoned 
with butter and pepper. Some, however, prefer it dressed with 
vinegar and hard-boiled egg. 

Rovunp-LeaveD. — This is the favorite sort with market- 
gardeners, and their main dependence both for spring and fall 
sowing. The leaves are large and fleshy, and rounded in form. 
It is very hardy, suffering but little from the severity of winter. 
In dry and warm weather it is very apt to run to seed. 


TOMATO. 259 


Lance Prickiy.—Is an excellent variety for fall sowing, 
being very hardy, yet requiring a light covering of straw where 
snow cannot be depended upon. The leaves are large and thick, 
and of excellent quality. 

Fianpers.—This variety is highly spoken of by those who 
have raised it, many giving it the preference over the Large 
Prickly. It is believed to be fully as hardy, and, consequently, 
equally adapted for wintering over, while the leaves are larger, 
thicker, and more succulent. It grows quite bushy, and, there- 
fore, needs to be thinned out to about nine inches apart. — 

New Zeauanp.—This is botanically quite a different plant 
from the common Spinach, though for all practical purposes and 
uses it ranks with it. It needs the same soil and cultivation, 
except that being a larger plant, it requires more space for its 
development. Well grown plants measure five and six feet in 
diameter. Many sow in a seed-bed or in a frame, and afterwards 
transplant to three feet apart each way. In deep and rich soil it 
grows with great luxuriance, especially in hot weather. The 
leaves can be gathered and used as they grow, and if not kept 
too closely cropped, each plant will continue to yield its leaves 
all summer long. It is very easily grown and very productive, 
but will not withstand frost. 


TOMATO. 


Not very many years ago, the Tomato was occasionally seen 
in village gardens, under the name of Love Apple, cultivated on 
account of its beauty of appearance, as an ornament merely, but 
now that it has found its way to our tables, it is grown by every 
one who makes any pretensions to keeping a garden, and hundreds 
of acres in the vicinity of the large towns and cities of America 
are devoted to its culture. Livery farmer residing convenient to 
market, finds it profitable to grow a proportion of Tomato, and the 
yield and price rarely fail to be such as to give a fair return for 
the labor. The earliest ripe Tomatoes brought to market com- 


260 TOMATO. 


mand the best prices, and hence there is a great desire to get 
them early. We doubt, however, if on the whole it pays our 
farmers to provide the necessary hot-beds and sash required to 
grow a crop of very early Tomatoes, because such are the facilities 
for transportation in these days of steam, that the more Southern 
grower supplies the earliest Tomatoes in spite of all we can do, 
and by the time we can possibly get ours ripe, the price is so 
materially affected by the supply from more sunny latitudes, that 
the pay is not an adequate return for the investment. 

Those, however, who are very anxious to get Tomatoes as 
early as possible, should provide themselves with a hot-bed about 
the middle of March, varying somewhat as to date according to 
the locality and the season, placed in some spot well sheltered 
from the prevailing cold winds. In this the seed should be 
sown in drills about three inches apart, not too thickly, and the 
sash kept close until the plants appear. As soon as they begin 
to show the second leaf they should have plenty of air whenever 
the weather will permit, taking care at the same time that they do 
not get chilled. In about three weeks it will be necessary to have 
some more hot-beds ready into which to transplant the Tomato 
plants, setting them about four or five inches apart each way. A 
sash will hold about fifty plants when thus transplanted, conse- 
quently two sashes will be required for every hundred ; and as 
an acre holds some five thousand plants, fifty sashes will be 
needed to grow enough for an acre. After they have been trans- 
planted, the same care will be required as before, giving water 
when needed, and sufficient air to make the plants strong and 
healthy. We think the better way for us to proceed is to wait 
until later in the season, say about the tenth of April, before 
sowing, and then during the first week of May they might be 
transplanted into a bed of ground made very rich, well exposed to 
the sun, and well sheltered from winds, and so arranged, that, at 
night and in very chilly weather they can be covered with boards. 
The best way would be to make a frame on the sides, as if for sash, 
and lay the boards across the sides of the frame. As the planta 


TOMATO. 261 


begin to crowd each other again, they can be again separated by 
taking up every alternate plant, and setting these out in an 
adjoining bed. In this way the plants can be allowed all the 

.space they require, will grow strong and stocky, and be in fine 
condition for planting in the open ground when danger of frost is 
over, and will be more likely to be healthy and valuable, grown 
by the inexperienced in this way, than if they attempted to use 
sashes. In this manner something may be lost in the matter of 
earliness in the ripening of a few Tomatoes, but a great deal is 
saved in the matter of hot-beds and sashes. Tomato seed will 
retain its vitality for five years. 

Those who desire to raise only a few plants for home use, can 
start them in the house by sowing the seed im a box filled with 
good rich soil, and keep it in a warm kitchen window. The 
kitchen is the best room in the house for plants, because the air 
is filled with moisture from the water that is kept almost con- 
stantly on the stove, in the various operations of cooking and 
washing that are carried on there. When the plants are fairly 
started, if they stand too thick, enough may be pulled out to 
give the remainder sufficient room; and if these are needed, they 
may be planted in another box of earth, kept shaded and well 
watered for a few days, when they will have taken fresh root, 
and may be set in the light. As often as the weather will per- 
mit, the boxes should be set outside the window, where they will 
get the sun and air, and be sheltered from chilly winds, not for- 
getting to take them in if the weather should suddenly change 
to a colder temperature, and always at night. In this way 
strong, stocky, and healthy plants can be grown, which may be 
set out, and sheltered with boards for a time, until the weather 
becomes warm enough to put them in the open garden. 

We have known an enthusiastic Tomato grower save his crop 
from an untimely June frost by placing small heaps of shavings 
around his Tomato plantation on the north, east and west sides, 
and when the thermometer indicated the approach of frost, he 
would light his piles of shavings and rubbish on the windward 


262 TOMATO. 


side, and the wind would blow the warm smoke over the plot of 
ground and thus save the plants from the frost. In his locality 
there was no danger of frost when the wind was in the south, 
hence he placed no heaps of combustibles on that side. In this 
manner he has saved his crop of Tomatoes not once, nor twice, 
but several times, and as he usually plants an acre or more, and 
markets the crop, it is quite a material item with him. 

For early Tomatoes, it is desirable to select a light, dry and 
warm soil; if not rich enough to give the vines a good start, a 
little well-rotted manure should be worked into ‘the soil where 
each plant is set, and in such soil three feet apart is a good dis- 
tance to plant them. For the main crop, they may be set in 
heavier soil, that is well drained and rich, at four feet apart each 
way. When those plants which are intended for the early crop 
have set their first clusters of fruit, it will hasten the swelling 
and ripening of the fruit to cut off the vine a little beyond the 
clusters, and as often as it starts again into growth to pinch out 
all the young shoots, not allowing the plant to make any more 
growth or set any more fruit. In hoeing, the earth should not 
be drawn up to the plants but from them, and the roots made 
to feel as much of the sun’s heat as possible. 

There is no doubt that something can be gained in the way 
of early maturity, by annually selecting for seed, the first well 
formed Tomatoes that ripen and sowing only such seed. Every 
year, some new sort is advertized which is to be from ten to thirty 
days earlier than any other, but it never turns out to be any 
earlier than those that have been in cultivation for years. “We 
advise every Tomato grower to save his own seed from his earliest 
good specimens, and let the “greenhorns” buy the wonderful 
novelties. 

When there is no lack of spacey the simplest mode of cultiva- 
tion is to keep the ground free from weeds, and allow the Tomato 
vines to spread over the ground. In small gardens they may be 
tied to stakes or a trellis, or kept up by a hoop placed around 
the plant and supported by stakes at any desired height from the 


TOMATO. 263 


ground. In small gardens they have a very handsome and neat 
appearance when trained in some one of these methods, besides, 
a larger crop may be secured in this way from a small piece of 
ground. 

The Tomato is used in a great variety of ways. Peeled and 
sliced, it is eaten without cooking, dressed with vinegar and 
pepper, or sugar and vinegar, or sugar and cream, or seasoned only 
with salt, or with mustard and vinegar, according to the fancy 
of each. It is cooked by stewing, by frying, by boiling, by. 
baking, stuffed with finely chopped meat and bread crumbs, and 
roasted—in short, in every conceivable way that ingenuity can 
devise. 

Varieties have become greatly multiplied, but beyond the 

_ gratification of curiosity, there is no need of growing more than 
two or three. 

Earty Smoota Rep.—This is the earliest variety of them all, 
medium in size, round, smooth, and of good quality. Those who 
are seeking for an early sort will find this to ripen a little in 
advance of all the rest, and by carefully saving the seed of the 
first to ripen, will in a few years succed in ripening it in their 
grounds before any of the new extra early sorts. 

GeneraL Grant.—The best of all for the main crop. The 
fruit,is large, smooth, flattened, solid, and of excellent quality. 
If the seed of this variety be saved only from smooth and well- 
formed fruits ripening first, it will be found to ripen close upon 
the heels of the Early Smooth Red, and to yield a fine crop of 
truly splendid Tomatoes. 

With these two varieties the cultivator might well be con- 
tent, for there are none in all the list yet grown to excel them. 

Frszz.—A large, solid, and pleasant flavored variety, of a 
nearly pink color, but late. 

Rep Cuerry.—Small, round, produced in clusters, used for 
pickling, too small for anything else. There is also a yellow 
variety. 

Rep Prum.—Nearly plum-shaped, small, scarlet, very uniform 


264 TURNIP. 


in size, productive ; also used for pickling. There is likewise a 
yellow variety. 

SrraWBeRRY.—Lhis is a different species, having a peculiar 
flavor, thought by some to resemble that of the Strawberry. 
Used for preserves, with the addition of lemon-juice, or stewed 
and served like Cranberries. 


TURNIP. 


To nearly every Canadian tiller of the soil this is a well- 
known vegetable as a field crop, and its cultivation well under- 
stood. Of the cultivation of the Turnip as a garden vegetable it 
is only necessary to say, that for the production of early Turnips, 
where that is desired for market or table purposes, it is highly 
important to select a light soil, sandy or gravelly, and enrich it 
abundantly with manure. In all other respects the cultivation 
will be the same, only on a smaller scale, perhaps, than the 
ordinary farm crop. We have thought that the late Turnips 
were better and sweeter than those usually brought to the table 
during the heat and drought of midsummer. The seed should 
be sown in drills about eighteen inches apart, and the plants 
afterwards thinned out to about six inches apart in the row. 
The seed will retain its vitality for a number of years, and can be 
safely relied upon even when four years old. 

For winter use it-is necessary to put the Turnips into pits, 
and cover with straw and earth sufficiently to exclude the frost, 
taking care not to put too many in one heap, as they will not 
keep so well in large bulk as in bodies of only three or four 
barrels in one heap. Where the soil is perfectly dry, even in wet 
seasons, or can be made so by drains, trenches may be dug in 
the ground to such a depth as can conveniently be done without 
admitting water into the trench, and about three feet wide, and 
the Turnips placed in these trenches, and covered with straw and 
earth. Where a trench cannot be dug without danger of water, 
they may be packed in ridges on the surface, and covered, only 


HOT—BEDS. 265 


the covering will reqmre to be put on thicker, to exclude the 
frost, than when they can be put below the surface. 

The following varieties are the most desirable for garden 
culture. 

Nuwerz Dicx.—The earliest Turnip, white and flat, of good 
quality, and much prized by those who grow Turnips for market. 

Gotpen Bati.—A yellow-fleshed variety, globular and 
smooth, sweet and of good flavor. 

Porpiz-Tor Srrap-Leavep.—aA flat, smooth Turnip, with a 
slender tap-root, firm fleshed, sweet and mild flavored. An excel- 
lent variety, and yields good crops. 

YeEtLtow Matta.—A small, early, yellow-fleshed variety, of 
fine grain and good flavor, probably the best yellow Turnip for 
summer use. 

SweEEet GEerman.—The best table variety with which we are 
acquainted for late fall and winter use. The seed should be sown 
from the first to the tenth of July in good, deep, rich soil, and 
the Turnips will be large enough for the table in October, and 
much sweeter than if sown earlier. It resembles the Swedish 
Turnips in form, but is white fleshed, fine grained, solid, sweet 
and of superior flavor. It will keep in fine condition until June, 
retaining its fresh, crisp character and sweet flavor. It is not 
always quite as smooth in form as a Turnip raiser would desire, 
but it more than makes up in sweetness and quality what it lacks 
in beauty of form. 


HOT-BEDS. 


Perhaps the first thing to be provided, in preparing a hot-bed, 
would be the frame, which is a sort of box without a bottom, 
nine feet long, six feet wide, two feet deep at the back and eighteen 
inches in front, level at the bottom but sloping gradually from 
the back to the front at the top. This, if made out of pine plank 
two inches thick, and dovetailed together, will be substantial 
and lasting. The sides should be enough higher than the front 


266 HOT—BEDS. 


and back to keep the sash in place, projecting upwards about the 
thickness of the sash. Such a frame will hold three sashes. 

The most convenient size of sash is six feet by three, the sash 
bars being all six feet long without any cross bars, and the glass 
laid with a lap of an eighth of an inch, the lowest light lapping 
about a quarter of an inch on the frame of the sash, and the 
upper light inserted, at the top, in a groove in the upper sash 
frame. In order that this may be done, it will be seen that it is 
necessary that the rabbet of the sash-bar or astragal shall be made 
to lie flush with the upper surface of the lower sash frame. Glazed 
in this manner, the rain falling on the sash runs off with nothing 
to hinder its descent. The sash-bars should be made stronger 
than those of ordinary window sash, and in the form shown for 
green-house astragals at page 142. 

These having been provided, it is necessary then to procure 
the material for producing the heat. This should be a quantity of 
fresh horse-dung, to which may be added, if convenient, leaves equal 
in bulk to one-half of the manure, or instead of leaves, the straw 
used in bedding. These should be well mixed and thrown com- 
pactly together into a heap to ferment. After the fermentation 
has become lively, the heap should be turned over, shaken out 
and re-formed, and left for three or four days until fermentation 
sets in again. 

If the ground be of that porous character that water will not 
settle into a pit two feet deep, such a pit may be dug out, of the 
width and length requisite to receive the frames, and the manure 
now placed in the pit. But if the ground be of such a character 
that water would settle into pits dug in it, the bed must be 
formed wholly on the surface. In placing the manure now, it 
should be put into the pit or built up in the form of the frames 
gradually, packing it as solid as possible, and beating it well 
down with the back of the fork, so that it may be alike firm and 
solid in all parts. When this is completed, the surface should 
be level, and the manure about two and a half feet deep through- 
out the entire bed. If built on the surface of the ground it 


HOT—BEDS. 267 


should be made a foot wider than the frame, so that it may 
project six inches in front and rear when the frame is set in its 
place. 

The frames are now to be placed upon the top of the manure, 
and the sashes laid on and kept close until the fermentation 
again sets in. At first this will be violent, and the thermometer 
will rise to about a hundred degrees if plunged in the manure, 
but in about three days the heat will subside. When this takes 
place, and the thermometer plunged in the manure has gone 
down to ninety, the soil should be put in the frames and spread 
out evenly to the depth of six or eight inches. 

This soil is prepared during the fall by mixing together some 
well rotted sods, which have been thrown together early in the 
summer for this purpose, and one-third its bulk of old, rotted 
manure. Rotted refuse hops from the brewery make an excel- 
lent manure for this purpose. 

The situation of the hot-bed should be well sheltered from 
the ‘westerly and northerly winds, and have a full southern 
exposure. Such a shelter can be made, when necessary, by plant- 
ing a double row of evergreens on the north, east, and west sides 
of the ground set apart for the frames. In most parts of our 
country the westerly are the prevailing winds, and it is of 
more importance to have the shelter on the north and west 
sides than on the east. Until the evergreens become large 
enough, a high board fence may be erected, but in a few years 
the trees will make a most effectual shelter. The Norway Spruce 
and the White Spruce are excellent trees for such a purpose. 

Beginners are very apt to keep their frames too close and the 
heat too great. If the result be not the entire burning up of the 
seeds or plants, it is very sure to be the production of long-drawn, 
spindling, sickly plants, too tender to be ever of any value. The 
remedy for this is to lift the sashes, and let in air. This may be 
very nicely regulated, from the merest crack to any width. 
When the weather and strength of the plants will admit, the 


sashes may be drawn off entirely. 
19 


268 COLD FRAMES.—TOOLS. 


COLD FRAMES. 


These are the same frames and sash as have been already 
described, placed upon a bed of soil, but without any manure or 
heating material beneath. All the heat, in this case, is obtained 
from the sun, which, being confined and the air excluded, soon 
warms the soil to a considerable degree. They are very useful 
in protecting nearly hardy plants during the winter and early 
spring, and in giving them a gentle warmth above that of the 
outside atmosphere. 


TOOLS. 


Of ploughs and harrows, and cultivators, spades and shovels, 
it is not necessary to speak, but there are a few garden imple- 
ments that are not as generally employed as their utility 
deserves. 

Tur Sree. Raxz is the best instrument for destroying very 
young weeds in a wholesale way. It can be had of many sizes, 
varying from eight to twenty inches in width. Two or three 
days after planting, the ground should be raked over with the 
steel rake ; this loosens the surface, and destroys untold numbers 
of sprouting weeds. In about a week after, the raking should be 
repeated, and as the weeds will then be just starting again, 
another crop of them will be destroyed. It is quicker done than 
to go over the ground with the hoe, and more effectual. 

Tue ScurrLe Hox is the best form of hoe for working 
between narrow rows when the plants are small. They can be 
had of varying widths, and should be about three inches 
narrower than the space between the rows. 

Tue Diecine Fork is a better instrument than the spade 
for loosening up and turning over the soil. It enters the ground 
more easily, and the soil is pulverized better by striking it 
with the back of the fork, when turned over, than can be done 
with the spade. 


TOOLS. 269 


Tae Pronerp Hor is better than the common blade hoe, for 
more work can be done in a day with it, and better done and 
with greater ease, than with the old blade hoe. Of course, it 
should be use before the weeds get a start, as it is much easier 
and cheaper to kill weeds just as they are breaking through the 
surface of the ground, to say nothing of the feeding of the weeds 
and the maturing of weed seeds for another crop. 


THE FLOWER GARDEN. 


THe desire to maxe one’s home attractive and pleasant is pro- 
minent in the mind of every right-thinking person, not merely 
for his own enjoyment, but more for the sake of his children. 
Home should be the most attractive place our children can find, 
and all the charms that we can throw around it will be as so many 
links to bind them to the spot that is to them both a sanctuary and 
ashelter. Besides this, the surroundings of home have a formative 
power upon the character of those who dwell there, and a 
stranger may tell much of the mind and heart of the inmates 
by looking at the door-yard. , 

To encourage and help those who are striving to twine some 
flowers in the strands of daily toil, who are wishing to set those 
plants which, though not ministering food to the eater, shall 
cheer with their winsome beauty the dwellers at home, smile out 
a welcome to the entering guest, or greet with a cheery pleasant- 
ness the passer-by ; to help such have these pages, devoted to ths 
Flower Garden, been penned. 

Our Canadian climate may not be the most favorable for 
lavish display of floral beauty, yet there are many beautiful 
things that will endure our climate, and, if it be necessary to 
bestow more thought and care upon the culture and protection 
of the trees, shrubs, and plants which we desire to have about 
our dwellings than is requisite in more sunny climes, this very 
care only heightens our enjoyment, and deepens our love for the 
things we thus cherish. Take courage, then; the Canadian’s 
motto is “to make a path where he cannot find one,” and if the 
floral treasures of the tropics do not grow naturally in our northern 
land, we will set about our homes those things which harmonize 
better with the natural features of our country, and compel 


THE FLOWER GARDEN. 271 


many of the plants of the tropics to blend their beauty and 
fragrance, during our brief warm summers, with the hardier 
beauties of our sterner climate. 

We possess a wealth of beauty in our Evergreens, and much 
of. comfort, too, for they can be so planted about the farm- 
stead as to shelter the buildings from the keen frost-laden blasts 
of winter, making the spot within their shielding influence 
several degrees warmer, and a great many degrees more comfort- 
able, than out where the wind sweeps on with unbroken power. 
We have a goodly number of these which are native to the soil, 
and those who wish to increase the variety may add to our own 
White Spruce, Hemlock Spruce, Balsam Fir, White Pine, &c., 
the Scotch and Austrian Pines, the Norway Spruce, and the 
rarer, but equally hardy, Nordman’s Fir and Eastern Spruce. 

We have deciduous trees, too, of great loveliness, and these 
may be so interspersed with the Evergreens as to heighten each 
the beauty of the other. A most graceful tree is our drooping 
Elm, and with it, all the Maples,—the Red, the Sugar, and the 
Silver Maple,—-with the Birches and the Oaks, flourish through- 
out the Dominion. To these may be added the Mountain Ash, 
both of Europe and America; and Maples, and Oaks, and’ 
Birches and Elms of other climes, as may best please the taste of 
the planter. And if he have a little knowledge of their several 
tints of foliage, and particularly of their autumn hues, and of 
their natural forms and habits of growth, he can so plant them 
that through all the changing year they shall minister to the 
homestead both grace and beauty. 

But it is hardly within the scope of this humble treatise to 
dwell upon the subject of the planting and management of trees 
around our dwelling-places, and the formation of lawns and 
parks. The time, we trust, is near at hand when the desire for 
home embellishment in the planting of trees shall attain such a 
position among us, that Canadians will require and receive, from 
abler hands, a work that shall treat specially of the planting ot 
ornamental trees, and give such hints concerning their arrange- 


272 HARDY FLOWERING SHRUBS. 


ment and disposition in groups or avenues, or single specimens, 
and such descriptions of their several characters, peculiarities, and 
beauties, and adaptation to soils and climate, as shall give a new 
impetus to the planting and culture of trees, for their own sake, 
throughout our entire Canada. 

Turning to our humble but grateful task, we propose first to 
enumerate some of those floweting shrubs which have been found 
to thrive well in the greater part of Canada, and which contri- 
bute so much, at their several periods of blooming, to make the 
door-yard and garden lovely and gay; and, at the same time, 
give such suggestions concerning the soil and cultivation best 
adapted to each as shall be of service to those who care for what 
they plant, and take delight in their perfect development. — 


HARDY FLOWERING SHRUBS. 


Tue Berserry.—Berbveris.—There is not a shrub more hardy 
than this, adapting itself also to every variety of soil. It is found 
in Northern Europe, Asia, and America, inhabiting the valleys 
of the more northern portions, but climbing the hill-sides of the 
warmer latitudes. Its flowers are yellow, produced in long, 
pendent racemes, and usually in great profusion. The fruit is of 
a most brilliant crimson, often remaining on the bush all winter. 
When laden with its yellow blossoms or with its coral-like 
berries, it is an object of much beauty. It should be planted at 
a little distance from the dwelling, for although its fragrance is 
pleasant when borne in on the air, when too near it is so strong 
as to be sometimes disagreeable. It will thrive in every descrip- 
tion of soil, but seems to fruit more abundantly in that which is 
dry and poor. There is a variety with purple leaves and pur- 
plish fruit, which is even more ornamental than the common. 
It is known as the Purple-leaved Berberry. This variety is 
propagated by layers, while the common is grown from seed, 
sown in the fall in drills, and covered about an inch deep. The 
Berberry does not require trimming, assuming naturally a grace- 


HARDY FLOWERING SHRUBS. 273 


ful form, growing yearly more dense by shoots thrown up from 
the crown, but never sending up suckers from the roots. The 
bark and root are used for dyeing linen and leather, imparting to 
them a bright yellow color. The fruit is very acid. It is some- 
times pickled, but used more as an ornament than a pickle. 
Boiled with sugar, it makes a pleasant jelly, and of a most 
beautiful color. 

Carotina ALLsPicE.—Calycanthus.—This shrub will hardly 
thrive, we fear, in the colder parts of the Dominion, except 
where the snow falls to such a depth as to cover it entirely 
during the severity of winter. In such places, and in the 
vicinity of the great lakes and other large bodies of water, it will 
live and thrive, making a moderate annual growth. At Halifax 
it is grown, but only in sheltered situations. It is very desirable 
for its peculiarly formed chocolate-colored flowers, which have a 
very delightful fragrance of ripe fruits, a mingling of the odor of 
Pine Apples and Melons. In our climate it is quite a low 
shrub, rarely attaining a greater height than three or four feet, 
growing best in strong, loamy soil, It is propagated by layers, 
but chiefly from the nuts, which mature abundantly in warmer 
climates. 

Canapian Jupas Trez.—Cercis Canadensis.—To some, this 
pretty, low growing tree, is known as the Red-Bud, from the 
appearance of the branches, which, earlyin the spring, are profusely 
covered with clusters of pretty pea-shaped blossoms, of a ruddy 
pink color. The leaves are very pretty also, being very regularly 
heart-shaped, and of a rich green. The blossoms appear before 
the leaves are expanded, and thus give to the tree a very pleasing 
appearance. It grows slowly, seeming to prefer a rich loam, and 
a somewhat sheltered situation. In favorable localities it attains 
a height of twenty feet, but with us it may be set down as rarely 
exceeding twelve or fifteen feet. We know it to be quite 
hardy in the greater part of Western Ontario, and believe that it 
will make a handsome shrub in most parts of the Dominion. It 
has not been planted as generally as its beauty deserves, hence 


274 HARDY FLOWERING SHRUBS. 


there has not been the same opportunity to learn of its hardihood. 
We have added the name “ Canadian,” which is its specific botan- 
ical name, to distinguish’ it from the European Judas Tree, which 
is not as hardy nor as handsome. The name “Judas” Tree, 
seems to have originated from the supposition that it was the tree 
whereon Judas hanged himself. 

Doawoop.—Cornus Florida.—Like the Judas Tree, this is 
strictly a tree of low growth, attaining ordinarily a height of from 
twelve to twenty feet, and has been almost as much neglected by 
planters because, like it, this beautiful little tree may be found 
growing naturally in some parts of the Dominion. But they are 
both well deserving of a prominent place in the attention of 
all Canadians who wish to adorn their rural homes. In spring, 
the Dogwood. is very conspicuous when covered with its flowers, 
which are surrounded with large floral leaves, nearly white, and 
beautifully shaded with rosy purple. These petal-like leaves are 
no part of the true flowers, but infold them as an involucre. 
There are usually a dozen small flowers thus surrounded, in one 
head, by these floral leaves, and as they are borne on the extrem- 
ities of the branches, cover the little tree with a seeming mass of 
bloom. The flowers usually open in the month of May, and con- 
tinue for some time. These are succeeded by berries, which 
become of a most glowing scarlet color as the autumn draws near, 
standing out above the foliage. And as autumn advances, the 
foliage itself changes to a most gorgeous purple, becoming more 
deeply tinged as the days pass by, until the upper surface of the 
leaves is suffused with a rich crimson and the under side becomes 
a glaucous purple. There is not among all our hardy, large shrubs, 
anything more charming, both in spring and fall, than this native 
tree, We have no doubt but that it will be found to be as hardy 
as the Sugar Maple, delighting most in a moist and shady situa- 
tion, becoming dwarfed when planted in very dry soils, or 
exposed places. : 

Dovsts-FLowrrine ALMonp.—Amygdalus.—Those who live 
where the Peach tree will flourish and blossom, can enjoy the 


HARDY FLOWERING SHRUBS. 275 


beauty of this charming tree, but in the colder parts of the country 
it suffers too much from the severity of the winter. It grows to 
the ordinary size of the Peach tree, and has the same naturally 
straggling habit of growth, which requires to be corrected by a 
little heading in. The flowers are very double, looking like little 
rosettes, of that peculiar pink shading best described as a peach- 
blossom color. These expand before the leaves have made much 
growth, and are borne in great profusion, literally covering the 
tree with little roses. It thrives best in warm, dry and light soils, 
not doing well in clay, and refusing to live if it be wet and cold. 
It is propagated by budding on either Peach or Plum stocks. 

Dwrar Dovstze—-Fiowrrina Aumonp.—This charming little 
shrub, scarcely exceeding two feet in height, is of the same 
tender character as its larger relation, not being able to endure 
extreme frosts, and thriving best in light soils that are warm and 
dry. Where the snow falls early, and deep enough to cover it 
during the severe winter weather, we believe it might be safely 
wintered out of doors. Yet even in our coldest latitudes the 
beauty of this little shrub might be enjoyed by growing it in a 
small tub, which could be plunged in the soil during the growing 
season, and removed in autumn to a dry cellar or any other shel- 
ter, where the thermometer did not fall to zero, taking care to pre- 
vent the roots from becoming quite dry. Or if taken up carefully 
in the fall, with a ball of earth about the roots, wrapped in a mat 
and placed under shelter and covered deeply with leaves, it 
could be replanted in spring, and would flower abundantly. The 
blossoms are very double, of the same lovely peach-blossom color, 
and cover the shrub in one mass of bloom. We like it best 
when budded on the Plum stock, on account of its propensity to 
throw up suckers from its own roots, which soon cause it to have 
a very untidy and neglected appearance. When budded on 
Plum or Peach it can be kept with a short, clean stem, which is 
a most decided improvement. 

Dwarf Double-White-Flowering Almond.—aA lovely shrub, 
in all respects like the foregoing, requiring the same soil, 


276 HARDY FLUWERING SHRUBS. 


climate and treatment, but having pure white double flowers. It 
is also much improved by being worked upon a Plum or Peach 
stock. 

Dervtzia.—This genus of plants derives its name from John 
Deutz, a resident of Amsterdam and distinguished patron of 
botany, in whose honor it was so called by Thunberg. It com- 
prises several very handsome shrubs. 

Drvutzia.— Double Crenate-Leaved.—A variety of recent 
introduction, one of the most charming of them all. It is quite 
hardy in the western part of Ontario, and in warm, dry soils, as 
distinguished from those that are wet and consequently cold, will 
probably prove hardy throughout the Dominion, It is a vigorous 
growing shrub, blooming most profusely, the flowers expanding 
in July when most other shrubs are out of bloom. The flowers 
are very double ; white, tinted with rose color on the outer sur- 
face of the petals, and hanging like little bells from the branches. 
We do not know a more beautiful and desirable shrub than this, 
and hope that it will yet be found in every collection, however 
small, in the Dominion. 

Rough-Leaved.—A very desirable variety, growing to the 
height of six or eight feet, and most profusely covered in June 
with white, sweet scented flowers. It is very hardy, and in 
well drained soils will thrive well in all parts of the country. 
Tt succeeds well in the vicinity of Halifax, Nova Scotia. 

Slender-Branched.—A dwarf-growing shrub, of very grace- 
ful habit, and exceedingly pretty when loaded with its elegant 
puxe-white flowers. It also is very hardy, and will no doubt 
winter safely in any part of the Dominion, for in the coldest 
latitudes it will be securely covered with snow. If taken up 
in autumn and potted, it may be flowered most beautifully in 
March in a cool green-house. To flower it well, it must not 
be forced rapidly, but kept in the coolest part of the house, and 
allowed to come forward slowly. ; 

Dovste Frowsrme Bramsres.—Rubus.—There are two 
varieties, the one white and the other rose-colored. They will 


HARDY FLOWERING SHRUBS. 277 


grow wherever the Blackberry thrives, and are very ornamental 
when covered with their pretty double flowers. They are easily 
propagated from cuttings of the roots. 

Finpert, Pourpie-Leavep.—Corylus.—This is a most con- 
spicuous shrub, particularly if planted so that its large dark 
purple leaves are contrasted with the lighter green foliage of 
adjacent plants. Its beauty lies entirely in the color of the 
leaves, and as this continues to be a dark purple nearly all the 
summer, it is a constant object of attraction and enjoyment. It 
has not yet been much planted in Canada, but from what we 
have seen of it, we believe it will prove to be hardy, and to thrive 
in all soils. 

Hawrtnorns.—Crategus.—These are among the most beauti- 
ful and interesting small-growing trees which we have, and give 
to the grounds in early summer a most ornamental appearance, 
diffusing at the same time an agreeable fragrance. They thrive 
well in the vicinity of all our large bodies of water, at Halifax, 
in Nova Scotia, as well as along the shores of Lake Huron. 
They prefer a rich, limestone soil, though they will grow in any 
soil that is not filled with stagnant water. In the colder sections 
they should be planted in positions that are sheltered from the 
prevailing winter winds. Propagated by budding on the com- 
mon Hawthorn of the English hedges. There are many 
varieties, but the following are the most attractive and desirable. 

HawtHorn.—Double- White.—Is very pretty when covered 
with its small, double, white flowers, and contrasts finely with 
the colored varieties. 

Double Rose-Colored.—The flowers are large and very 
showy, of a deep rose color, shaded with crimson, and produced 
in great profusion. 

Single Scarlet.—When in full bloom it is exceedingly 
showy, but the flowers do not last long under a hot sun. 

New Double Scarlet—We have not yet seen this variety 
in bloom, but it is described in England as the most desirable of 
all, on account of the perfectly double character of the flowers, 


278 HARDY FLOWERING SARUBS. 


and their great depth of color, which is there a bright carmine 
red. 

Honeysucnies.—Lonicera.—These are very hardy shrubs, 
growing in the open air about Stockholm, in Sweden, and St. 
Petersburgh, in Russia, and may be safely planted anywhere in 
Canada. They adapt themselves to almost every soil, and endure 
any exposure. They may be grown from seed, which should be 
sown in the autumn, or from cuttings. 

Pink-Flowering.—A very showy variety, producing bright 
red flowers, which are delicately veined with white. 

Red Tartarian.—The flowers of this variety are of a very 
bright pink, and appear about the end of May. 

White Tartarian.—Differs from the preceding only in the 
color of the flowers, which are white. 

Litacs. — Syringa.—These are well-known hardy shrubs, 
which grow well everywhere, in every soil, and all exposures. 
They have become so generally diffused that they are hardly held 
now in the estimation which they really deserve. Yet their 
beauty has been celebrated in verse, for it is of the Lilac the 
poet is speaking : 

‘© Various in array, now white, 
Now sanguine, and her beauteous head now set 
With purple spikes pyramidal.” 

There are a few varieties that are worthy of special attention. 
Among these we place the 

Persian Purple.—It is one of the most graceful and pleasing 
shrubs in any collection. The leaves are small, and the spikes 
of flowers so large and heavy that they bend the spray, and 
hang like nodding plumes. The catalogues advertise a White 
variety, but though we have bought it several times, in hopes to 
secure so desirable a shrub, we have never yet seen it; the 
flowers have all been a sort of faded purple. 

Chionanthus Leaved.—It is very distinct in both foliage 
and flower, and blooms quite late. The flowers are purple. 

Virginalis.-The flowers are pure white, borne in large full 
spikes. and exceedingly pretty. 


HARDY FLOWERING SHRUBS. 279 


Pronvs TRILOBA.— We esteem this a great acquisition to our 
list of hardy shrubs, and well worthy of a place in the most 
select collection. It has not yet been planted sufficiently long, 
nor in places sufficiently various, to enable us to say that it will 
endure the winter in our colder sections; but we believe that in 
those places, at least, where it is covered all winter with snow, 
it will thrive perfectly. The flowers are nearly double, of a 
clear pink color, large size, and borne in great profusion. It is 
cultivated by budding on the plum stock. 

Purete Frinez.—Rhus cotinus.—Known under different 
names, as Venetian Sumach, Smoke Tree, Love-in-a-mist, this 
shrub has found its way into most collections. In the neighbor- 
' hood of our great lakes it endures the winters perfectly, but at 
Halifax, and in similar localities, it requires a somewhat sheltered 
position. The shrub has a very irregular habit of growth, 
and any attempt to prune it into regularity only seems to increase 
the deformity or render it conspicuous. Left to itself, branching 
to the ground, its irregular growth is concealed by the foliage, 
and when covered with its peculiar feathery fringe, it is most 
interesting and ornamental. When these floral panicles first 
appear they are of a light green, which at length changes to a 
reddish brown, that, after a time, deepens into a purplish shade. 
At this time it often looks like a cloud of smoke issuing from the 
ground, or early in the morming, when covered with dew, like a 
rising mist. These floral ‘panicles continue a long time, and 
make the shrub well worthy of the general esteem in which it is 
held. 

Rosz-Acacia.— Robinia hispida.—Also sometimes called 
the Moss Locust, is an exceedingly handsome shrub. Its habit 
of growth is spreading and irregular, and the branches are covered. 
thickly with stiff hairs, hence the name of Moss Locust ; but the 
flowers are produced in great profusion, hanging in dense racemes, 
and are of a most beautiful rose color. It begins to flower when 
not more than eighteen inches high, and grows slowly to a height 
of from'three to five feet, im very favorable localities attaining to 


280 HARDY FLOWERING SHRUBS. 


ten feet. The flowers appear in July, are pea-shaped, and borne 
in clusters like the common Locust, but have no perfume. We 
believe it will thrive anywhere in Canada, the snow protecting 
it on account of its dwarfness, in those parts where the winters 
are severe. It has the fault of throwing up suckers from the 
roots, in which way it propagates itself, but its beauty fully 
compensates for all its faults. 

Rost or SHaron, or AttHEA.— Hibiscus Syriacus.—These 
shrubs bloom so late in the season, in August and September, 
when no other shrubs are in flower, that they are very desirable. 
They are not particular in their choice of soil, though they seem 
to thrive best in a deep loam. Sometimes the twigs suffer 
during the winter, but when sheltered by neighboring evergreens 
or covered beneath the snow, they pass safely. But in bleak 
situations, especially where exposed to the sweep of wintry 
' winds, they will perish. There are numerous varieties, differing 
only in their flowers. Some are single, and of various shades of 
blue, purple, or red, or are white, or white with violet centre ; 
others are double, and of similar colors. In form the flowers 
resemble those of the Hollyhock. There is also a variety having 
the foliage marked with light yellow, known as the Variegated- 
leaved Althea ; its flowers are double, and of a purple color. 

Japan Quince.—Cydonia Japonica.—This shrub is one of 
great beauty, and much more hardy than the Quince we grow for 
fruit. So far as we are informed, it thrives well in all parts of 
the Dominion, though we can speak positively of it only in 
Nova Scotia, and in the vicinity of the lakes and River St. 
Lawrence. It is simply splendid when covered with its large, 
showy blossoms, and the scarlet varieties look truly like a burn- 
ing bush. It is in blossom early in spring, before the leaves are 
fully formed, and when used as a garden hedge, presents a most 
charming appearance. And even after the flowers are gone, the 
neat, glossy green leaves have a very pleasing effect. -The fruit 
is not fit for use. It can be propagated from the seed, and in 
this way new varieties are introduced, differing in the coloring 


HARDY FLOWERING SHRUBS. 281 


of the flowers from the parent. Any particular variety may be 
propagated by root cuttings. The following varieties are quite 
distinct, and worthy of attention. 

_ Scarlet.—The flowers are produced in great profusion, and 
are of a bright scarlet-crimson color, giving the shrub a very 
brilliant appearance. 

Doubdle-Flowering.— A. variety of the preceding, producing, 
flowers that are semi-double. 

Blush.—Very pleasing when grown with the Scarlet, from 
the contrast of color ; the flowers of this being a delicate pink or 
salmon color, shading to white. 

Umbelicata.—Produces brilliant rosy-red flowers, and large, 
showy fruit. Of a more vigorous habit, forming a large shrub. 

SprrEas.—This is a most useful genus of plants for the 
Canadian cultivator, many of the species having been introduced 
from Siberia, and therefore able to endure the cold of our most 
rigorous winters, and all of them natives of cool regions. Many 
of the varieties are plants of great beauty, and by a judicious 
selection of sorts, may be made to bloom over a period of three 
months. They are of easy culture, delighting in a moist, rich soil, 
becoming stunted in that which is very dry or poor. They are 
propagated by cuttings, by layering, and by seed. We have not 
space for the description of all the varicties that have been 
introduced, and make a selection of those which will be most 
useful and pleasing in our climate. 

Double-Flowering Plum-Leaved.—This variety we place at 
the head of the list for its beauty and hardiness. We believe it 
will thrive anywhere in Canada, and that it will be a constant 
pleasure to its possessor. In May it is covered with pure white 
double flowers, wreathing the slender branches throughout almost 
the entire length, each one looking like a miniature white rose. 
After the flowers are gone, the leaves through the summer are a 
bright, glossy green, changing, as autumn approaches, to yellow 
and orange, and red, and scarlet. Such is the variety of coloring, 
so harmoniously pane are the tints, that one will look at 


282 HARDY FLOWERING SHRUBS. 


it again and again, and wish it might thus remain for ever. It 
does not produce seed, but is propagated from green-wood 
cuttings and layers. 

Lance-Leaved or Revesit.—Could we assure our readers that 
this elegantly graceful shrub was as hardy as the Plum-leaved, 
they would as surely plant it, for though differing from it entirely 
in habit of growth, form and color of foliage, it is in nothing 
behind it, save hardihood, and in some respects is more attractive. 
The Plum-leaved is quite erect’ in form, this most gracefully 
pendulous; and the leaves are not oval, but narrow, pointed, 
and deeply serrate, changing late in autumn to a purple hue, but 
not as gaily painted. But there is a brilliancy in the snowy 
whiteness of its flowers, and a charming grace in its lovely, airy 
form, that is not to be surpassed. And though we have seen it 
suffer in the open winters of these lake regions, doubtless, in the 
regions of all winter snow it would be perfectly hardy. ‘There 
is a double-flowered variety of the Lance-leaved, differing in 
nothing from this, save that the flowers are double. They are 
not so tender that any need hesitate to give them a trial; if in 
the region of open winters with but little snow, give them the 
shelter of some friendly evergreen that will stand between them 
and the rough wintry wind that most commonly prevails, and it 
will not be often that they will suffer. To decide which of these 
two varieties of the Lance-leaved is the prettier, will be no easy 
task ; many, perhaps most, will prefer the double ; but there is a 
peculiar, charming brilliancy in the flowers of the single variety 
that the double does not possess. They blossom a few days 
earlier than the Plum-leaved, and like it, are usually propagated 
by layering and from cuttings of unripe wood. 

Eximia.—This is a very fine variety, producing its figwers in 
spikes. They are of a bright rose color, and appear in July. 

Billardt.—Another rose-colored variety, which keeps in bloom 
throughout July and August. ; 

White Beam-Tree Leaved.—A very pretty white flowering 
sort, introduced from the north-west. It has a very dense, bushy 


HARDY FLOWERING SHRUBS. 283 


habit, and blooms in July, the flowers entirely covering the 
plant. 

Callosa.—There are two, the white flowering and the rose- 
colored. The flowers are produced in broad panicles, and con- 
tinue nearly all summer. 

Siperran Pea-Tree.—Caragana,—aA very pretty and hardy 
shrub, producing an abundance of yellow pea-shaped flowers in 
spring. It thrives in any soil that is not wet, and makes a good 
substitute in our severer latitudes for the Laburnum. It is propa- 
gated by seeds, which it yields abundantly. 

Sirver Betu.—Halesia.—The four-winged fruited Halesia is 
quite hardy, and will grow in any soil or exposure, but thrives 
best in a rather poor, sandy soil. It presents a very pleasing 
appearance when loaded with the pretty, white, bell-shaped 
flowers, which appear in June. They are propagated by seed. 

Syrivea or Mock Orance.—Philadelphus.—There are sev- 
eral varieties of this shrub, all of which are of easy culture, and 
thrive in any good garden soil. They are quite hardy, and are 
propagated by cuttings, or layers. They come into bloom in 
July. 

The Garland is the best known, producing a great profusion 
of white, sweet-scented flowers, whence the name of Mock Orange. 
It is of this the poet is speaking :— 

“The sweet Syringa, yielding but in scent 
To the rich Orange, or the woodbine wild.” 

The Hoary-Leaved is a very beautiful variety, having large 
white flowers and downy leaves. 

The Large-Flowered is not as fragrant as the Garland, but 
the flowers are larger and more showy. 

SyowpaLt or Guewer Rosz.—Viburnum.—This is a well 
known and favorite shrub, quite hardy, and accomodating itself 
to a great variety of soils and situations. It is of very easy cul- 
ture and can be propagated by cuttings or layers. It flowers in 
June, and is a very showy object when covered with its rounded 
panicles of white blossoms, There is a variety known by the 


284. HARDY FLOWERING SHRUBS. 


name of Macrocephalum, which is comparatively rare, and 
produces much larger heads of bloom than the older sort, and 
therefore thought to be more beautiful. It is certainly well 
worthy of a place in our collections. Plicatum is the name of 
another new variety which is said to bear large clusters of snow- 
white flowers in great profusion, and to be really a fine shrub. 

Tamarix.—We hope these very beautiful shrubs will prove 
to be hardy in a large part of the Dominion, As yet, they have 
not been sufficiently known and cultivated among us to decide 
the question of their hardiness, but they will, no doubt, thrive 
in the greater part of western Ontario, and in the vicinity of large 
bodies of water. Their leaves are very delicate and heath-like, 
and when covered. with their spikes of pink flowers, they present 
a charmingly graceful appearance. There are several varieties, 
but the African, blooming in spring, and the German, blooming 
in August, are the best with which we are acquainted. 

Weicretas.—These beautiul shrubs do well in Nova Scotia, 
and generally throughout Canada, and well deserve the high esti- 
mation in which they are held. They grow well in any good 
garden soil, are easily propagated from cuttings or layers, and 
remain a long time in bloom. 

Rose-Colored.—This was introduced by Mr. Fortune, from 
China, and created a great sensation on its first appearance. It 
is one of the best, if not. the best, of all the varieties. The 
flowers are rose-colored, and are produeed in the axils of the leaves 
throughout nearly the entire length of the branches. They begin 
to expand as the leaves appear, but continue on the shrub until 
after the leaves are fully grown. 

Amabilis——Much esteemed on account of its flowering in the 
end of summer. The blossoms are not quite as large as Rosea, 
but are much the same in color, the leaves are larger, and the 
habit of the plant is more drooping. 

Hortensis Nivea.—The flowers of this variety are pure white, 
and very abundant. In habit, it is somewhat more vigorous and 
upright, and larger in the leaf. 


HARDY CLIMBING SHRUBS. 285 


‘There are many more varieties, but these are the most distinct. 
A variegated-leaved variety of the Rose-colored Weigela is well 
worthy of attention, from the pretty yellowish-white border of the 
leaves and dwarf habit of the plant. 

Wurrtt-Frince.—Chionanthus Virginica.—One of the most 
desirable flowering shrubs in cultivation, on account of its beautiful 
racemes of delicate white flowers, which have the appearance of 
a paper fringe. It thrives well in Nova Scotia, and will probably 
adapt itself to the climate of Canada generally, but it has not yet 
been sufficiently widely planted to ascertain just how much cold it 
will endure. It succeeds best in a light loam, and may be propa- 
gated by grafting it on the Ash. 

There are many other shrubs which might be grown in some 
parts of the country, with varying success, but although some of 
them are very handsome, they suffer so often from the effects of 
our climate that their cultivation is not satisfactory. Among 
these we name the Laburnum, an exceedingly beautiful tall- 
growing shrub or small tree, especially when covered with its 
long, hanging racemes of yellow flowers, from which it has 
received the name of Golden Chain. The Japan Globe Flower 
is so often killed back that its beauty is quite lost, and the 
flowering Currants very frequently have the blossom buds 
destroyed, and the same is true of the Forsythia. Probably in 
those places where the snow falls deep enough to cover them, 
they would escape all injury. From those described a selection 
may be made that will suit the locality of each cultivator, and 
the most worthy of his attention. 


HARDY CLIMBING SHRUBS. 


These are often very desirable to cover a wall or fence, or to 
train about the pillars of a verandah, or upon a lattice or screen. 
There are but few that seem to be well adapted to our climate, 
and of these the following will be found to be the most satisfac- 
tory. 


286 HARDY CLIMBING SHRUBS. 


Virginia CREEPER.—Am~pelopsis hederacea.—This is perfectly 
hardy everywhere, and being a rapid grower will soon cover the 
desired space. The flowers are insignificant, but the foliage is 
handsome, being of a bright, shining green in summer, and in 
autumn changing to a variety of rich shades of scarlet, and crim- 
son, and purple. It will grow in any soil and any aspect, 
requiring no culture, and clinging firmly to the wall or other sup- 
port by the rootlets thrown out at every joint. 

Ampelopsis Veitchii is a miniature variety, with smaller 
foliage and finer stalk, but like it clinging firmly, growing rapidly 
and densely, and changing in autumn to crimson and purple. 

Trumpet-FLoweRr.—Bignonia Radicans.—Like the Ampelop- 
sis, this throws out rootlets at the joints and clings firmly to wall 
or board, and soon covers its support. It is a very showy climber 
when in bloom, producing large trumpet-shaped flowers, which 
are of an orange‘scarlet color, appearing in August and continuing 
for some time. It is hardy in a large part of the country, though 
we judge that it would not endure the cold of our severer sections. 
It thrives best in a loamy soil, not too wet. 

Brirawort or Dutcuman’s Piee.—Aristolochia sipho.—A 
most interesting climbing plant; the leaves are very large, often 
ten or twelve inches across, of a dark green color, and the flowers, 
which are produced in July, are yellowish-brown, resembling in 
form a meerschaum pipe. It does not seem to have been much 
planted in Canada, but we have no doubt it will prove to be gen- 
erally hardy. It grows in any fair garden soil, and raises itself 
by twining around its support, hence it should be trained about 
a pillar or on a lattice and not against a bare wall. 

Ciematis or Virain’s Bowrr.—There are several varieties 
of these elegant slender-branched shrubs. They are suitable for 
training upon trellis work, but can not cling to the face of a wall. 
The most of the more showy varieties require some winter pro- 
tection. Where there is snow all winter it will be quite enough 
to lay them on the ground, and allow the snow to cover them, but 
where the snow does not lie all winter, it will be necessary to 


HARDY CLIMBING SHRUBS. 287 


throw some litter over them before the ground freezes. Instead 
of training the large-flowering species upon a trellis, they may be 
allowed to spread over the ground, merely confining them to the 
bed it is designed they ‘should cover, and in this method they 
_ inake most beautiful bedding plants. The flowers are often three 
to four inches in diameter, usually white, or purple, or blue, of 
various shades and tints, exceedingly brilliant and showy. 

American White.—A native variety, sometimes found on 
the banks of our streams, supporting itself by twining its petioles 
or leaf-stalks, around the branches of shrubs or low trees. It 
blossoms in August. The flowers are white, succeeded by seed 
vessels having long feathery appendages which are very handsome. 
It will grow some twenty or more feet in a season, but the greater 
part dies back in winter, leaving a foot or two near the ground 
from which the new growth starts out the next season. 

Sweet-scented European.—The flowers are small, white, and 
very sweet-scented. There is a light purple variety that is sweet- 
scented, called Odorata. They both flower in August and 
September. 

Viticella.—Flowers reddish purple, produced in great abun- 
dance from June to September. There is a double-flowered 
Viticella, which is much admired; another called V. Venosa, 
in which the purple petals are veined with crimson; and yet 
another called V. Purpurea, having a red band in the centre of 
each petal. 

Lanuginosa.—Has very large pale blue flowers, and there is a 
sub-variety, Candida, which has large, handsome white flowers, 
that is thought to be the best white. 

Hownrysuckius.—Lonicera.—These favorite climbers are too 
well known to require description. Seed sown in the autumn, 
after they are ripe, will come up the next season, but if allowed 
to become dry they seldom grow until the second year. 

Scarlet Trumpet.—Quite hardy, yielding trumpet-shaped 
flowers, of a rich scarlet on the outside and orange within, not 
perfumed. 


288 HARDY CLIMBING SHRUBS. 


Yellow Trumpet.—Differs from the foregoing only in the 
color of the flowers, which are light yellow throughout. 

Monthly Fragrant.—A very sweet-scented variety, blooming 
all summer, flowers white, changing to straw color. 

Hallieana.—Pure white flowers, which in time change to 
yellow, very sweet scented, and produced in great profusion from 
June to November. 

Japan Golden-veined.—The leaves are yery prettily veined 
with yellow, flowers perfumed, habit of growth slender and 
delicate. 

Wistaria, oR Guycrne.—These most beautiful climbing 
shrubs will no doubt require protection in winter in those parts 
of the Dominion where the Peach tree does not flourish. In 
Nova Scotia they require to be grown in very sheltered situa- 
tions ; and where the climate is too severe for them to remain 
on the trellis all winter, they can be taken down, thrown on the 
ground, and if the snow cannot be depended upon to protect 
them, covered with leaves or straw. They require a well-drained 
soil that is moderately rich; in soils too damp, or if over-fed, 
the flower-buds are more likely to be injured by the winter. 
The flowers appear in spring just before the leaves, in racemes of 
about ten inches in length, hanging like bunches of grapes, in 
hundreds of clusters. While young it does not blossom abun- 
dantly, but as soon as it has become well established, it will 
bloom with increasing fulness from year to year. Where it does 
not require winter protection it can be made to assume the form 
of a tree, by training it to a stake of the desired height, and not 
allowing it to find any further support. After a time the stem 
will become stout enough to be self-supporting, when the stake 
may be removed. The plant finding nothing further to climb 
upon, will eventually give up trying, and make a pretty round- 
headed shrub. In August they usually blossom a second time, 
but not near as profusely as in the spring. 

Chinese.—Grows very rapidly, and will cover a very large 
space ; produces large hanging clusters of pale blue flowers. 


HARDY CLIMBING SHRUBS. 289 


Chinese, White.—Resembling the preceding in habit of 
growth, but producing white flowers. 

Magnifica.—The flowers are pale lilac, the plant vigorous 
and of a hardy character, foliage like the American. 

American or Frutescens.—Flowers pale blue, clusters not 
so long as the foregoing sorts, and habit of growth not so vigor- 
ous. There is also a white variety, called Frutescens Alba. 

Ivy.—Hedera.—There seems to be some difficulty in making 
this beautiful evergreen climber thrive in our climate, more 
probably because of our hot suns than because of the frost, for 
we have noticed that it will grow on the north side of a building, 
especially if sheltered from the sweep of winds, It will cling by 
its own rootlets to the face of a wall without any help of man, 
and soon cover it with a mantle of green. Those who have a 
wall, the north side of which they wish to cover, will probably 
‘succeed in doing it with this plant, but it is of no use to try to 
grow it where it is exposed to the sun. 

But there is a use to which the Ivy may be put in any part 
of Canada with complete success, and that is indoor decoration. 
No matter how dark the room, how great the dust, how various 
the temperature, so long as the roots are not frozen, whether 
lighted with gas or coal-oil, the Ivy will grow. Placed in a pot 
or box on the floor, it may be trained to festoon a window, or 
ornament a door-way, to run as a border or cornice of green 
around the room, or in any form or fashion fancy may decide. 
Of course, if the dust is occasionally sponged from the leaves in 
tepid water, and the fresh air allowed to visit it now and then, 
it will well repay the attention bestowed. 

There are many varieties of the Ivy, all of which have their 
own peculiar beauty. The leaves of some are blotched with 
gold, as the Aurea Marmorata ; some have the edges of the leaves 
margined with white, as the Marginata Argentea ; some have 
lobed leaves, as Zobata ; some palmate leaves, as Palmata, and 
the variety called Tricolor has its leaves marked with green, 
white and rose-color. 


290 HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 


HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 


WE group under this head some of the most interesting and 
desirable of our hardy plants, whose foliage may nearly or quite 
disappear upon the advent of winter, but whose roots rémain 
unharmed in the soil, and send up in spring new shoots, stalks, 
and leaves, bearing flowers, and often maturing seed before the 
return of winter. All the care these require is to keep them 
free from grass and weeds, giving them an occasional top-dressing 
of well-rotted manure, and when, they seem to have become over- 
grown or tired of their position, giving them a shift to a new 
spot, and, if need be, dividing the root. They should be trans- 
planted in spring, if possible. Among these will be found some 
of our most showy flowers, some of them exquisitely fragrant, 
and old favorites that no one can do without. 

AcurtiEa.—The Milfoil or Yarrow.—tThe varieties of this 
plant are mostly very hardy, of easy culture in any garden soil, 
and those named worthy of a place in the garden, especially on 
account of the length of time they continue in bloom. Propa- 
gated. mostly by dividing the roots. 

Millefolia’ Rosea.—Produces rosy-lilac flowers, grows a little 
over a foot in height, and blooms from June to August. 

Millefolia Rubra.—Deep red flowers, which continue all 
summer. Plant grows about fifteen inches high. 

Ptarmica Pleno.—Is double white, flowers in July, and attains 
a height of about eighteen inches. 

Microphylla.—Produces white flowers in July, and is quite 
attractive on account of its neat, pretty foliage. 

Aconttum.— Zhe Monkshood or Wolfsbane.—Very pretty 
tall-growing plants, blossoming freely in spikes, varying. from 
eighteen inches to three feet in height; singularly formed, 
resembling the cowl or hood of a monk, and are mostly of some 
shade of blue. They are all violent poisons if eaten, and must 
not be allowed to find their way into the salads or greens. They 
are grown from seed and by divisions of the root. 


HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 291 


x . 

Californicum.—A very robust variety, attaining a height of 
from two to three feet, and blooming in September. The 
flowers are pale blue, veined with purple. 

Japonica.—The flowers are deep blue. It grows about 
eighteen inches high, and blossoms in August. 

Napellus.—Flowers in June, which are a light azure, tipped 
with yellow. Grows eighteen inches. ; 

Oriental.—About eighteen inches in height, flowers light 
cream-colored, tipped with yellow, appearing in July. 

Versicolor.—Flowers blue and white, appearing in July and 
August, stalks eighteen inches. 

Aquitzcia.—The Columbine.—This is an old and favorite 
flower, flourishing in any garden, perfectly hardy, and multiplied 
into an indefinite number of varieties, bearing single and double 
flowers of every shade of blue, purple, black, rose-color, red, 
reddish-brown, striped and variegated. They blossom in June 
and July, require no special culture, and are propagated’ from 
seed and by dividing the roots. 

CampanuLa.—The Bell-flower.—There are a number of pretty 
flowers that belong to this group, some of them perennials, and 
others lasting only for two years. The Canterbury Bells belong 
to the biennials, being raised from seed sown in the spring, trans- 
planted in August or September to the place where they are to 
remain, and flowering the following summer. As the plants die 
__ after ripening the seed, a continuous supply of these flowering- 
plants can be had only by sowing seed every year. 

Some of the Campanulas are of very slender, graceful habit, 
such as the C. Rotundifolia, often known as the Harebell. It is 
of this pretty, delicate plant that Sir Walter Scott is speaking, 
when he describes the step of the fair Lady of the Lake as being 
so light that 


“Ben the slight Harebell raised its head 
f Elastic from her airy tread.” 


Others again are more robust, growing from four to five feet high, 
and often used, especially by our Anglican forefathers, to deco- 


292 HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 


rate their halls and stairways, and as summer screens in the fire- 
place. 

Carpatica.—These are of dwarf habit, growing only some 
six inches high; there are two varieties, one with white flowers, 
the other is tinted with azure. 

Coronata.—Is a very pretty semi-double, profuse bloomer, 
with pure white flowers, in July and August, growing to the 
height of eighteen inches. 

Grandiflora.—There are two varieties, both growing about 
eighteen inches high and flowering in July, the one pale blue 
and the other a semi-double white. 

Mepium or Canrersury Brnis.—These are biennials, and 
are all very showy, the colors red, white and blue, and both 
single and double. Seed should be sown every year. 

Persicifolia.—The flowers of this are large and showy, the 
plants perfectly hardy perennials, growing about three feet high, 
and blossoming in June and July. There are both double and 
single varieties of blue flowers and of white. 

Pyramidalis.—Very showy, forming a pyramid five feet 
high, and covered with a profusion of large blue flowers for two 
months. The flowers continue better if the plant be partially 
shaded from the sun. The seed is usually sown in the autumn, 
soon after being gathered. These come up in the spring, are 
kept clean and free from weeds during the summer, and in Octo- 
ber transplanted to the bed where they are to remain. They 
require a light protection of leaves during the winter in our 
climate where unprotected by snow, but should not be dressed 
at any time with manure. They usually bloom the second year, 
though sometimes not until the third. 

Rotundifolia.—Is a native of this continent, probably to be 
met with in Canada as well as in New England, grows about a 
foot high, of slender habit, and produces drooping, fine blue 
flowers in July. It is the Harebell, both of England and 
America. 

Trachelium.—Grows about three feet high, preferring a 
loamy soil, has large heart-shaped foliage, and produces double 


HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 293 


blue flowers in July and August. May be propagated by sowing 
the seed or dividing the roots. 

ConvaLtLaRia.—Majalis._-The Lily of the Valley.—The 
delicate beauty and grace of this modest flower, combined with 
an exquisite sweetness of perfume, have made it an universal 
favorite, welcomed. alike in lordly hall, or peasant’s hut. From 
its crown of broad and bright green leaves rises a single stalk 
bearing a number of pretty bell-shaped flowers, the edges neatly 
turned back. It is perfectly hardy, thrives well in any 
thoroughly drained soil, preferring a shady spot, and spreading 
rapidly enough by its delicate creeping roots. There are two 
varieties, one with pure white flowers, the other, with rose-tinted 
blossoms. 

De.pninium.—The Larkspur.—The herbaceous varieties are 
very desirable showy plants, some of them very tall, running up 
to five and six feet in height, and producing a fine effect when 
planted among shrubbery ; others, more dwarf in their habit, 
growing about two feet high, and requiring a place in the border. 
They flourish in any good garden soil and are perfectly hardy. 
Choice and perfectly double varieties are multiplied by dividing 
the roots; by sowing the seed of those that produce seed a 
variety of shades of color will be produced, some very closely 
resembling the parent, and possibly one or two in a hundred 
better than it. 

Formosum.—A. tall-growing variety, blooming very freely 
throughout July and August. The flowers are large, deep azure, 
with white centre, and veined with a reddish purple. There are 
many seedlings from this, varying in shade of color. 

Grandiflorum.—Very showy, growing from two to three 
feet high, and comprising many hues of blue, and purple, and 
white. In bloom all summer, and perfectly hardy, 

These are named as samples of the tall and the short-growing 
sections ; beyond this there is only an endless confusion and 
commingling of varieties once thought to be distinct, but now so 
completely lost in each other by cross-fertilization, that they have 


294 HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 


no very distinctive characters. Ali are beautiful, and new seed- 
lings are being constantly produced, crowding out the. old 
favorites, to be in turn supplanted by those that come after. 

Dictamnus.—The Fraxinella.—This singular plant has an 
odor something like that of lemon-peel, especially noticeable if 
the leaves or stalk be gently rubbed. In warm midsummer 
weather, when the plant is in bloom, the odor is strongest, and 
it is said that an inflammable vapor is exhaled from its resinous 
secretions in sufficient quantity to admit of being set on fire, 
though we have never tried the experiment. There are two 
varieties, a red and a white flowered, both blooming in June and 
July, and growing to the height of about two feet. In Nova 
Scotia it requires to be planted in favorable situations, and to be 
protected in winter. In Western Ontario it seems to be suffi- 
ciently hardy in well-drained soil, but very impatient of wet. 
It is raised from seed, which should be sown in the autumn as 
soon as ripe. 

' Dianraus.—The Pink.—An universal favorite that needs no 

description, finding a place in every garden, and consisting of 
many varieties. These varieties are such as to be worthy, in 
many cases, of individual mention, and requiring often various 
treatment. 

Garden Pink.—This is sufficiently hardy to endure our 
winters, suffering only if allowed to become large, when the 
shoots form such a mat that they damp off or rot from excess of 
moisture. It requires a good, rich garden soil, that is thoroughly 
well drained. We have found that by layering the shoots after 
the plants have done flowering, and thus keeping up a supply of 
young plants, there is no difficulty in preserving them in the climate 
of that part of Western Ontario within the influence of the lakes, 
but if this be neglected, they are almost sure to go in winter 
with the damp. Florists have laid down certain rules, by which 
the quality of the flowers is decided ; those having large and 
broad petals, with finely fringed edges, the ground color being 
white or rose, with a dark velvety eye, and a delicate lacing of 


HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 295 


the same color as the eye around the entire margin ot the petal, 
stand in the front rank. The method of propagating by layering 
is described under the head of Carriation; new varieties are 
raised from seed. 

China Pinks.—These last only two years, being biennial. 
They are dwarf in their habit of growth, quite hardy, producing 
most beautiful flowers, both the first and second year, but more 
strongly the second season. The flowers are richly marked with 
dark shades of crimson, with edgings of rose, pink, or white, in 
endless variety of pattern, but have no perfume. Seed should 
be saved from the double varieties, in order to secure a large 
proportion of double flowers. The Hreprwici and Heprwien- 
LACINIATUS and DiapEmatus are very large flowering varieties of 
the China Pink. 

Carnations.—These are the most beautiful of the tribe, and 
at the same time deliciously scented. In the open ground they 
suffer from the severity of our winters, and sometimes from the 
heat and drought of summer; but when well grown, they can be 
scarcely excelled, vying even with the rose in beauty of appear- 
ance and sweetness of perfume. They are divided by florists into 
Flakes, those having two colors only, with large stripes quite 
through the petals; Bizarres, which are variegated with not less 
than three colors, irregularly striped and spotted ; and Picotees, 
which have a clear white or yellow ground, laced or edged with 
scarlet, rose, or purple. 

We layer Carnations when the flowers begin to fail, taking 
off all the lower leaves of the young shoots with a sharp pen- 
knife, and cut a tongue, passing the knife upwards half through 
the joint, then fasten the shoot to the ground with a hooked 
peg, bending carefully at the cut but not breaking, and cover 
about two inches deep with pure sand. By watering occasionally, 
if needed, to keep the soil moist, the layers will root in from 
four to six weeks, and may then be separated from the parent 
plant, and either potted or set out in open border. By covering 
lightly with evergreen branches, they will pass the winter safely 


296 HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 


in open border, or if potted should be plunged in a frame, and 
covered in same manner. Leaves would be a good covering, but 
they make a harbor for mice, and mice are very fond of Pinks. 

They require a good, deep and well enriched soil. If potted, 
the soil used should be well-rotted sods, mixed with well-rotted 
old manure, in about equal proportions. If not sufficiently 
porous to allow the water to pass readily through, it should be 
lightened by adding sand sufficient to make it porous. Those 
wintered in pots may be planted out in the open ground as soon 
as the weather has become settled in spring. 

The Winter-jflowering or Tree Carnation is a very pleasing 
addition to this tribe of plants, enabling us to enjoy their beauty 
and fragrance nearly all the year. In summer these require to 
be kept in a cool and airy place, so that they may become 
stocky and vigorous for winter blooming. In autumn they 

should be removed to the green-house or window, and allowed 
plenty of air, not forcing them forward rapidly, but permitting 
them to come into bloom without any crowding. 

Diantaus Barpatus.—The Sweet William.—There are now 
some beautiful strains of this much-admired flower. The Auricula- 
flowered is one of the most showy and handsomely marked. It 
is easily raised from seed, and choice varieties may be perpetuated 
by layering or dividing the roots. It will flourish in any good, 
well-drained garden soil, but in some parts of the country, where 
there is but little snow, will require winter protection. 

Dierratis.—The Foxglove-—These are beautiful ornamental 
plants. The large thimble-shaped flowers are produced in dense 
spikes, three and four feet high, of various colors, purple, red, 
rose, and white, very neatly marked with minute dots within 
the bell. Some of the varieties are perennial, but those usually 
grown in our gardens are biennial, requiring to be raised from 
seed every year, in order to keep a succession of flowering plants. 
A new strain, known as the Gloxinia-flowered, is much admired, 
the flowers bearing a marked resemblance to those of the Gloxinia. 
They are all poisonous plants if taken into the system; and an 


HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 297 


intexicating drink is sometimes made by steeping the leaves and 
stems in water, making a Fox-glove tea. They thrive in any gar- 
den soil, and may be made perennial by dividing the roots, after 
they have done flowering, in the fall, They appear to best advan- 
tage when planted among shrubbery. In the neighborhood of 
Halifax, Nova Scotia, they require favorable situations, and to 
be protected in winter; and the same will hold true of all sections 
where the winters are severe, and the ground not covered con- 
tinually with snow. 

Diocenrra.—The Bleeding Heart.—This is one of the most 
beautiful and most hardy of all our herbaceous plants, one of the 
few that does not flourish well unless it has a season of frost, and 
will thrive throughout the Dominion. The plant has a very neat 
and graceful habit, its leaves are a light transparent green, and the 
heart-shaped flowers, arranged in bending sprays, are of a bright 
tosy pink, with pearly white corollas, set in frosted silver. The 
flowers are produced in great; profusion, and continue during the 
month of May. It grows in any well-drained garden soil and is 
well worthy a place in every Canadian garden. There is a pure 
white-flowered variety of recent introduction, which is much 
admired and believed to be perfectly hardy. 

Fonxgia.—The Day-Lily.—These are also perfectly hardy, of 
very easy culture, growing in any garden, and very ornamental. 
Each flower lasts only for a single day, but the plant continues 
in bloom for.some time. They are all propagated by divisions of 
the roots in spring. 

The White Day-Lily.—Has large, tube-shaped, very fragrant, 
white flowers, produced in succession upon stems about two feet 
high. In flower in July. 

The Blue Day-Lily.—Produces light blue flowers in the same 
manner, but they are not fragrant nor as large as the white. 
Blooms a little earlier than the white. 

The Variegated Day-Lily—Is a blue-flowered variety with 
handsomely variegated leaves ; very attractive. 


Hexteporus Nicer.—The Christmas Rose.—This interest- 
21 


298 HARDY HERBACEOUS FLUWERS. 


ing plant derives its name of Christmas Rose from its habit of 
blooming in England at Christmas time. It is a most hardy 
evergreen-leaved plant, flowering here about the first of Decem- 
ber, and continuing to throw up its flower stems, if the weather 
be not too severe, all through the winter. Whero covered with 


' snow sufficiently to protect it from extreme frosts, its pretty 


flowers may be found under the snow. The flowers are single, 
of a blush white color, tinged with green, and resemble a small 
single rose. It is propagated by dividing the roots in spring. 

, Ints.—The Fleur-de-lis.—There are many varieties of Iris, 
the most of them being hardy and some exceedingly beautiful. 
As the different varieties require somewhat different treatment, 
the culture adapted to each is given below, with a description of 
some of the most interesting and desirable sorts. 

Germanica.—This is the one so commonly seen in all our 
gardens, perfectly hardy in all parts of Canada, and flourishing 
in every soil and with the most negligent treatment. The flowers 
are large, dark purple and light blue, appearing in June. 

Susiana.—One of the most beautiful, tuberous rooted varieties. 
The flowers are very large and showy, the colors being a variety 
of shades of brownish purple, very prettily mottled and spotted, 
which appear in June. It is important that the roots should be 
taken up as soon as the leaves begin to die down, which is about 
the first of August, and kept dry in some cool place until Octo- 
ber, when they should be again planted. In places where the 
winters are open they are the better for a slight protection of 
litter. If the roots are allowed to remain in the ground they 
commence to grow in the fall, and this young growth being killed 
by the frosts, the plant in consequence dies. 

Persica.—This beautiful variety is very sweet-scented, and 
comes into flower very early in spring. Its colors are blue, 
yellow, purple, and white. It is one of the most charming 
things possible for window culture, and may be grown in sandy 
soil in pots, or in moss, or in water. It is bulbous-rooted, grow- 
ing best in a sandy soil, and requiring plenty of moisture, but 


HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 299 


not stagnant water. Ii is perfectly hardy where snow covers the 
ground all winter, but in other places should receive a slight 
protection. 

Xiphium.—This is also a bulbous-rooted variety, known as 
the Spanish Iris, and described in catalogues under the name of 
Iris Hispanica, It is very hardy, and the flowers are very 
pretty, displaying nearly every shade of light and dark blue, 
brown, purple, yellow, and white, and withal very sweetly 
scented. It will thrive well in any good garden soil. 

Xiphioides.—This has obtained the name of English Iris, 
and is called Iris Anglica in most catalogues. It is bulbous- 
rooted, of more robust habit than the Spanish, and produces 
flowers as various in color, and as handsome. It also is perfectly 
hardy, and will do well in any friable garden soil. 

All of these bulbous-rooted sorts should be planted in the 
fall, about three inches deep, and allowed to remain for three 
years, when they will require to be taken up and the bulbs 
separated. They are best suited in a rich loamy soil, that is 
thoroughly drained. 

Some new sorts have been introduced from Japan and the 
Mountains of the Caucasus, which are said to be very distinct 
in habit and color, and very beautiful, but we have not seen 
them. Kamp/feri is an example of the Japanese Iris, said to 
produce flowers six inches in diameter; while Violacea comes 
from the Caucasus, and produces flowers of a rich, deep violet- 
purple. These will probably prove to be hardy, and add to the 
number of a family already rich in most beautiful flowers, well 
adapted to our climate, and of easy culture. 

Latuyrus.—TZhe Ever-blooming Pea.—A perennial blooming 
Pea, which thrives well in our climate, producing its flowers in 
long succession. It will thrive in any good friable soil, and 
makes a pretty plant for an arbor, trellis, or screen, attaching itself 
to any support by means of tendrils, There are three varieties, 
Latifulius, which produces pink flowers; and Latifolius alba, 
having white flowers; and Grandijlorus, which has very large 


300 HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 


rose-colored flowers. They are easily raised from seed, beginning 
to flower the second year, but increasing in profuseness of bloom 
until they are four or five years old. 

Lycunis.—Z. Chalcedonica.—A native of Russia. The 
flowers are borne in truases, and are either white or brilliant 
scarlet, and both single and double. The single are easily raised 
from seed, the double can only be propagated by dividing the 
roots early in spring, or by cuttings. The single varieties seem 
to be perfectly hardy in our climate, but the double require a 
slight protection where the winters are open. ‘The double 
varieties are truly splendid, especially the scarlet-flowered, and 
continue in bloom from June until autumn. 

L. Fulgens.—Is a hardy species from Siberia, its flowers are 
scarlet, about an inch in diameter, very showy, but single. 
There are double white and double scarlet varieties of this 
species, which, like the double varieties of Chalcedonica, require 
to have some protection during our open winters,—as we have 
learned to our cost,—and which are not easily to be obtained. 

L. Flos-cuculi.—This is the Ragged Robin of English flower- 
gardens, a deservedly popular flower, of easy cultivation, growing 
in any loamy, well-drained soil. The flowers are very double, 
and of a deep pink color. There is also a double white variety. 
They are easily propagated by divisions of the root. These 
suffer more when the winters are open than when the ground is 
covered with snow. 

L. Senno.—A new species from Japan. There are white and 
red varieties of this also, and it will probably prove to be hardy 
in our climate. 

Paonia.—The Peony.—The herbacious Peonias are among 
the most hardy and most showy of our border flowers. They will 
adapt themselves to almost any soil, though they prefer a rich, deep 
loam. Once planted they should remain in the same border for 
a number of years, receiving in early spring a top-dressing of 
well-rotted manure, to encourage their growth, and improve the 
size and beauty of their blooms. They are multiplied by 


HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 301 


dividing the root, taking care to have a bud upon each piece. A 
piece of root without a bud will remain many years in the soil 
seemingly alive, but we have never known one to throw up a 
shoot. They thrive best if the roots are divided in September 
and planted out in the border, but they are tenacious of life, 
and can be transplanted in the spring or fall, though when 
transplanted at these times they will not usually blossom well 
the next year. There are many varieties of herbaceous Peonias, 
and more names in our nurserymen’s catalogues than distinct 
varieties, the distinction being in many cases without any impor- 
tant difference. Having flowered or seen in flower some hundred 
different names, we select from them the following as being the 
most distinct and worthy of cultivation, and they are truly a 
most superb collection of most showy flowers. Those who have 
seen only the old crimson P. Offcinalis, have usually formed 
the opinion that the scent of the flowers is unpleasant, but the 
perfume of these is sweet, in many instances resembling that of 
the Rose. 

Festiva Maxima.—This is a favorite variety, on account of 
the size, purity, and beauty of its flowers. They are very large 
and full, of the purest white, with occasional streaks of carmine, 
which serve to relieve the sameness and heighten the snowy 
whiteness of the flower. 

Queen Caroline.—A worthy companion to the preceding, per- 
fect in form, very large and double, in color a rich deep rose, 
truly a perfect beauty. 

Whitleji.—Is a white flower with light cream-colored centre, 
very large and double, changing to pure white when open for 
a time. 

Humei.—A large, showy, very double flower, of a purplish- 
rose color, continuing in bloom later than most of the other sorts. 

Delachii.—Is a very dark purplish crimson, much resembling 
Potsii, but more double, and on that account to be preferred. 

Queen Victoria.—A very large, showy flower; the outer 
petals are of a clear rose color, the inner petals nearly white, 
slightly tinted with pink. 


302 HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 


Centripetala.—The flower is peculiarly formed, the petals of 
the outside row are large, and of a fine rosy-pink color, those of 
the next row are narrow and fringed, while the centre-petals are 
full-sized and broad. 

Victoria Tricolor.The outside petals are light rose, mottled 
with pink, the centre petals yellowish-white, with occasional 
markings of red. The flower is large and full. 

The Tree Poonias are very beautiful, but they all require 
protection during our severe winters. Possibly they may be 
sufficiently protected by the snow where it falls deep enough to 
cover them, and.remains through the winter, but in all other 
places they should be planted in favorable positions, where they 
will be sheltered from the sweep of chilly winds, and protected 
with straw or branches of evergreens tied over them during the 
winter. There are many varieties of these also. Alba Variegata, 
Gumpperii, Parmenteri, Reine Elizabeth, and Robert Fortune, are 
among the best and most distinct. 

Tas Patox.—There is an almost endless list of the varieties 
of Phlox, all of them beautiful, yet not all equal in beauty. All 
are perfectly hardy, enduring our most severe winters without 
even the slightest protection, and may be grown in any garden 
where the soil is rich and friable, but flourishing in perfection 
where the soil is very deep, moist, rich, and loamy. The Phlox 
is somewhat impatient of drought, and holds its colors better and 
its bloom longer if planted so as to be somewhat shaded from the 
fierceness of the sun, yet not under the drip of trees. It is 
easily propagated by division of the roots, which may be divided 
when the plant has done flowering or early in spring. New 
varieties are raised from seed. 

The varieties in cultivation have been divided into Early 

| Flowering and Late Flowering. New and improved names are 
being constantly produced by the florists, so that the favorites of 
to-day, 1872, will probably be discarded in a few years to make 
way for those of more recent introduction. Meanwhile those 
who plant the following names will be sure to have most 


HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 303 


beautiful flowers, the most desirable and most distinct of those 
now in cultivation. 

Karty Fuowerine.—Sufructicosa.—Her Majesty.—This is 
the most perfect white variety that has hitherto been produced. 
The flowers are pure white, of the finest form, very fragrant, and 
borne on a fine compact spike. The plant is of a dwarf habit, 
yet vigorous and healthy. 

John Cummving.—A very fine flower, perfect in form, of a 
deep rose color, with a distinct dark crimson eye. 

Mrs. Graham Sterling.—The flowers are very fragrant, and 
of the finest form, color pure white with a dark crimson eye. 

Othello.—This forms a grand spike of finely developed, vory 
dark crimson flowers, delicately shaded. 

William McAuley.—This also makes a most beautiful spike 
for exhibition ; the flowers are very large, perfectly formed, of a 
beautiful light rose, handsomely shaded. 

The Deacon.—A deep rosy purple flower, with a light crimson 
eye, of large size and of the finest form and quality. 

Lats Fiowsrine.—Decussata.—Madam C. De Bresson.— 
One of the most beautiful, attractive and showy flowers in the 
whole range of varieties. The flowers are large, white, with a 
full bright carmine centre, which makes a most pleasing contrast. 

Duke of Sutherland.—Makes a magnificent exhibition spike ; 
the flowers are of fine form, dark rosy crimson with a very 
dark eye. 

Madam Delamare.—The flowers have a novel appearance, 
being of a bright rosy salmon color with a fine black centre. 

Monsieur Delamare.—Is exceedingly attractive on account of 
the dazzling red color of the flowers, handsomely set off by a 
black centre. 

Madam Verschaffelt.—The spikes are large and very showy, 
covered with a great profusion of flowers of a bright lively salmon 
color. . 

Venus.—The flowers are silvery white, with a bright, violet- 
purple eye, very pretty. 


304 HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS, 


There is a very dwarf, spring blooming Phlox, called by 
botanists Phlow Subulata, and known by the common name of 
Moss Pink. Tt never grows more than a few inches in height, 
and produces varieties with flowers of pink, purple, and white, 
and some that are eyed. A bed of these is very pretty in May, 
easily grown, requiring only to be divided and planted in a new 
bed once in two or three years. 

Srrrea.—The Meadow Sweet.—These are all perfectly hardy 
plants, enduring our most severe and changeable winters without 
injury. They thrive best in a loamy soil, deep, rich, and well 
drained, ‘In such situations they grow finely and flower most 
abundantly. There are several very pretty and desirable species 
which are well worthy of a place in the most choice flower gar- 
den. They are all of easy culture and increased by divisions of 
the roots. 

Filipendula.—The double flowered variety is very pretty. 
The flowers are white, very double, resembling the beautiful 
Spirea Prunifolia, which is described among the shrubs. It 
grows about eighteen inches high and blossoms in June and July. 

Japonica.—This is nowadvertised, sometimes as Hoteia Japon- 
ica, sometimes as Astilbe Japonica. But by whatever name it 
may be called, it is one of the most graceful and beautiful little 
things with which one can ornament a garden. The foliage alone 
is very pretty, but when this is crowned with its neat spikes of 
white feather-like flowers, it is charming. If taken up in the. 
autumn, carefully potted and set away in the cellar until February, 
then brought into a warm room, it will blossom beautifully and 
make a most elegant window plant. 

There is a variety the foliage of which is handsomely varie- 
gated with bright yellow, especially in the early part of the 
season, but in nothing else differing from the preceding. 

Ulmaria.—The double-flowered variety of this species is by 
far the most desirable. The flowers are produced in large 
corymbs, of a snowy whiteness. The species is a native of 


HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 305 


Great Britain, abounding in rich, moist meadows, and scenting 
the air with its perfume. 

Lobata.—The flowers of this species are a deep pink, arranged. 
in corymbs, and borne upon a tall flower stalk. They are very 
pretty, and contrast finely with the white flowering species. 
This is a native of the prairies of America, and is sometimes 
called the “Queen of the Prairie.” 

Palmata.—A new species introduced quite recently from 
Japan, believed to be hardy also, but has not yet been suffi- 
ciently tested in our climate to settle this point. "We have not 
yet seen the flowers, but they are said to be of a beautiful crim- 
son purple, and borne in broad corymbs. The bright red stems 
and palmately lobed leaves give it a distinct appearance from the 
older sorts, and we hope our plants will favor us with a sight of 
the flowers during the coming season. 

TricyRtTIs.—This new herbaceous flowering plant is perfectly 
hardy in our climate. The stalk and foliage are killed by the 
frosts, but the roots pass the winter safely, and throw up their 
shoots the next season. The flowers, however, are produced too 
late to make it much of an addition to the garden, for they scarce 
make their appearance in our climate before the autumn frosts cut 
the plants so severely as to spoil all their beauty. But if care- 
fully potted in September, before the frosts appear, it will make 
one of the most beautiful of late fall or early winter-blooming 
plants for the window or green-house that we possess. 

The flowers have a very marked resemblance to some of the 
Air-plants or Orchids. They are of a pearly white, beautifully 
dotted with clear purple, and have a sweet perfume, much like 
that of the Heliotrope. 

Viota.—The Violet.—There are many species of this “wee 

_ modest flower” scattered with lavish profusion through every 
land and every clime. Thereare-many to be found growing wild 
in favorable places in all parts of the Dominion, but although 
they are not wanting in beauty, they have none of them the 
sweet perfume of the European violets. Hence we seldom. see 


306 HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 


the American violets cultivated in gardens, save in the children’s 
garden ; their appreciative love for the friends of their woodland 
rambles leading them to transplant them to their own flower 
beds. 

The English Violet.—Both single and double, is one of the 
first of our spring flowers, the blossoms often hidden by snow 
when winter lingers in the lap of spring. The flowers are most 
delightfully fragrant, a small bed filling the garden with per- 
fume, and a flower or two scenting the whole room. Nor is 
there anything pungent or cloying in the odor; we can never 
get it in too great abundance. Its balmy sweetness seems wafted 
in gentle undulations, just breaking with sufficient force upon 
the senses to fill them with delight. 

This species delights in a deep, rich, moist soil, sheltered, if 
possible, from bleak winds, but more especially sheltered from 
the hot scorching suns of summer. In a dry and sandy soil it 
will not flourish. Sometimes, when the winter is open, they 
suffer much from the sudden changes of weather, many plants 
perishing ; but when they have once become well established, 
some survive or new ones are produced from seed, so that they 
are not wholly lost. When there is a covering of snow through 
the winter, be it ever so slight, they come out in fine condition. 

We cannot understand how any old-countryman can afford to 
be without this lovely reminder of home, and are sure that no 
Canadian who has once enjoyed its sweetness and beauty will 
willingly be without it. 

There are varieties known as the Giant, Czar, King, Queen, 
somewhat larger than the English, but not more sweet, and some 
not as abundant bloomers. 

The Neapolitan is not sufficiently hardy for our climate. 

The Cornuta has light mauve flowers, which are fragrant. 
It has been lately used for bedding purposes in England, but 
here it would not bloom in summer, though hardy enough to 
bear the winters. 

Viota Tricotor.—The Pansy.—This beautiful and univer- 


HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 307 


sal favorite needs neither description nor praise ; it is known to 
the young and old, and is cherished alike by both ; to the latter 
especially dear for its many long-time associations, as well as its 
intrinsic beauty. In the cooler and moister climate of Great 
Britain, with winters less rigorous than ours, it flourishes in per- 
fection. Here the hot, dry summers parch it, and the hard winter 
frosts pinch it, but with a little care on the part of the cultivator, 
it can be grown here in great beauty, unfolding its lovely flowers 
in abundant profusion through the spring and autumn months. 
In the colder parts of the country, where the snow will protect it 
all winter, it should be grown in great perfection. 

By selecting a spot on the north side of buildings or of a high 
fence, where the soil is, or can be made, deep, light, rich and 
moist—selecting for fertilizer that from the cow stable, and apply- 
ing it liberally—the Pansy can be well grown in any part of the 
land. When hard freezing weather approaches, a light covering 
of brush will collect, in most places, enough snow to give the 
plants all the protection they need, or if not, a few branches of 
evergreens will be quite sufficient. Protection from the sun, 
both in winter and summer, is of more importance in our climate 
than protection from frost: This is secured by making the Pansy 
bed on the north side of some object that will afford this shade, 
while it does not subject the plants to drip, nor rob them of 
their nourishment. They are propagated by cuttings when it is 
desired to preserve some particular variety, but when that is not 
essential, by sowing the seed. 

Pansies have been divided by florists into Selfs, Yellow- 
grounds, White-grounds, and Fancy. The Sel/s are mostly of 
one color, and may be dark, or white, or yellow; Yellow-grounds 
are those in which the ground-color is yellow, belted with some 
shade of purple; White-grounds are belted in the same manner 
upon a light cream or pure white ground ; Fancy Pansies are of 
many colors, blotched, laced, marbled, veined, pencilled, and 
shaded in every conceivable fashion. In Scotland they are all 
grown in great perfection, and new, choice varieties sell at five 
shillings sterling each. 


308 HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 


Here, we have hardly attained to the same nicety of discrimi- 
nation with regard to Pansies as obtains in the Old World. 
Without troubling ourselves with minute distinctions, the flowers 
are admired for their beauty ; yet even the child in Pansy-lore 
will prefer those that are most circular in outline, and whose 
colors are pure and distinct. 

Yucoa.—Adam's Needle—We desire to call attention to the 
Yucca, a most beautiful and interesting plant, yet very seldom to 
be met with in our gardens. The peculiar foliage is so strikingly 
in contrast with that of all other plants that for this alone it is 
always desirable, yet in addition to this, its appearance when in 
in bloom is exquisitely charming, especially when seen by moon- 
light. The variety known as Filamentosa, so called from the 
‘threads that hang from the edges of the leaves, is the only one 
that we know to be sufficiently hardy to endure our climate. Very 
probably some of the other species, such as Y. Gloriosa, would 
winter safely beneath the snows of more northern localities, when 
it would perish in the open winters of the Jake regions. We 
most sincerely hope that every one who has a garden witl,- at 
least, plant the Filamentosa and enjoy its rare beauty. 

To enjoy this plant to the best advantage a bed shotld be 
prepared, of light rich soil, that will hold at least half-edozen 
plants at about two feet apart each way. The first season they 
will not be likely to bloom, but they will bloom the secomd, and 
increase in size, and in a few years completely fill the bed. They 
should be allowed to remain in the same bed without being dis- 
turbed, for as they increase in size and strength they will flower 
more and more abundantly. : 

It is propagated by dividing the roots, and very readily from 
seed. The seedlings differ considerably, and we hope some lever 
of flowers will take this plant in hand, and, by sowing seed, raise 
some new and desirable hardy varieties. 

The flowers are borne on tall branching flower stems, from 
four to six feet high, which are nearly covered with large, bell- 
shaped, creamy-white blossoms. Mr. E. 8. Rand, living near 


BULBOUS—ROOTED FLOWERS. 309 


Boston, Massachusetts, mentions a bed of ten Yuccas planted 
four years, which produced fifteen flower stems, none of them less 
than six feet high, and upon which the flowers were numbered by 
thousands. The flowers appear in July and continue for a long 
time. 


BULBOUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 


Under this head are grouped a class of flowers of great beauty, 
easy of culture, and many of which are most admirably adapted 
for window culture and winter blooming. Some of these are most 
easily grown in those parts of Canada where the snow falls soonest 
and remains the longest, requiring no other protection than that 
mantle which nature provides for her children of the soil, and, 
under which she so lovingly wraps them from the frost. In 
those places where the ground is often bare during a large part 
of the cold season, and the frosts penetrate to considerable depth, 
the tender care of the cultivator must supply the needed covering, 
and some coarse litter be spread over them of sufficient depth to 
prevent the frost from penetrating far into the soil below. 

This class of plants is seldom troubled with insects and is 
measurably exempt from diseases, and by a proper selection 
and treatment may be had in bloom, in some or other of its 
members, all the year round. Many of these add to the charms 
of beauty the most delightful perfume, and whether blooming in 
a bed under the window or upon the flower-stand in the room, 
will fill the house with their pleasant odors. 

A want of knowledge of the habits and true methods of cul- 
ture of these flowers has, we are persuaded, been the hindrance 
hitherto to their general introduction into our flower gardens. 
We have often known our nurserymen and florists to receive 
orders in the spring for bulbs that should be planted in the fall, 
and which, if taken up and transported to the purchaser in spring, 
will be very sure to perish. It is hoped that the hints here 
given will be so clear and practical that all doubt and misappre- 


310 BULBOUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 


hension will be removed, and that those who take pleasure in 
their gardens and windows, will be enabled to grow them with 
entire success. 

Another reason why evety possessor of the smallest village 
lot may enjoy the pleasure which these flowers will afford, is 
that they require but little space and can be had at very little 
cost. It is true that those who must have the latest novelty can 
have ib only at considerable expense, but those who are willing 
to have pretty flowers without inquiring whether they are of the 
latest introduction, and can enjoy the beauty or fragrance of an 
unnamed tulip or hyacinth just as keenly as though it bore 
the title of some noble Countess or Royal Prince or Imperial 
Majesty, may buy them of our dealers at very moderate prices. 

The most of these bulbs are grown in Holland, where soil, 
climate and cheap labor conspire to render their production much 
less expensive than it would be here. For this reason our 
florists annually import them from that country, and have them 
on hand, ready for their customers, in time for planting at the 
proper season. 

Those who wish to have a bed of these bulbs under the win- 
dow should choose, if possible, a window that looks toward the 
south. The most of them are natives of warm climates, and 
delight in all the sunlight and sun-heat we can give them. 
They also prefer a rich and moist sandy loam, yet one that is 
readily drained, free from all stagnant water in the soil. If the 
soil be not naturally of this character, the labor necessary to 
make it so will be most amply repaid. If the subsoil be natu- 
rally porous, all that will be needed will be to work into the sur- 
face sufficient sand and thoroughly rotted manure to make it rich 
and light to the depth of eighteen inches. But if the subsoil be 
a retentive clay, it is very desirable that it should be removed 
from under the intended bed to the depth of a foot at least, and 
an under-drain made from the bottom to the most convenient 
outlet, so as to carry off all the water that would selile into the 
place from which the clay is removed. The place cesupied by 


BULBOUS—ROOTED FLOWERS. 311 


the clay sub-soil should be filled up with broken stone or coarse 
gravel, putting the coarser portion at the bottom and the finest 
at the top. The surface soil should be kept separate from the 
subsoil when digging out the bed, the subsoil taken away, and 
the surface soil mixed with sand and old rotted manure, and 
decayed leaves, if they can be had, until it is quite light, loses 
nearly all its adhesive or sticky character, if it had any, and then 
spread over the drainage until the bed is filled again.. It is not 
desirable to raise the bed more than an inch or two above the 
natural surface of the ground after it is settled, but when first 
filled in it should be raised about fowr inches, to admit of the 
settling of the newly-disturbed earth. 

Those who are willing to take the trouble to prepare a soil 
by gathering a few wheelbarrow loads of sod from an old pasture, 
every summer, and stacking them in some out-of-the-way corner 
in alternate layers of sod and cow-manure, will secure just the 
best dressing for these and all other flower beds that they can 
have. Of course its value will be enhanced if they can add to 
it ground bones, horn scrapings or horn piths. This heap, after 
lying for two or three months, should be cut down with the 
spade and thoroughly worked over and commingled. If this 
can be done two or three times, at intervals of a month or so, 
during the year, so much the better, and when it is a year or 
more old it will be in just the right condition for use. The 
proper time for applying it to the bulb bed will be in the 
autumn, when it may be spread on the surface to the depth of 
an inch ortwo. This will also be just the soil to use for pots 
if it is desired to grow any of the bulbs in the window, adding 
to it enough sand to make it light and free from adhesiveness, if 
it be not already there. 

Further directions for the successful cultivation of the several 
varictics will be given in the paragraph devoted to cach, where 
the peculiar treatment that may be best suited to that particular 
species will be fully described. 

If a bed be planted by setting little clusters of Snow-drops 


312 BULBOUS—ROOTED FLOWERS. 


and spring Crocus here and there, but leaving sufficient room 
between in which to plant Hyacinths and early and late Tulips, 
interspersed with English Ivis, a few Meadow, Japan and Tiger 
Lilies, with some clumps of Colchicum or autumn-flowering 
Crocus, it will be an object of beauty and interest nearly all the 
summer, and will not require to be disturbed for three or four 
years. From the time that. the Tiger Lilies are done blooming 
until the autumn Crocus appear there will be a lack of flowers, 
which might be supplied by sowing some Portulaca seed on the 
bed. in the latter part of May, which will cover the surface with- 
out injury to the bulbs, and blossom abundantly in August, 
continuing until frosts destroy the plants. 

Tae Hyactnra.—This grows best in light, but rich, sandy 
soil, The best manure is old cow-dung that has been thrown 
into a heap and thoroughly rotted, and consequently entirely free 
from any straw or litter. If it can be mixed with an equal bulk 
of dry leaves when placed in the heap, and occasionally worked 
over duting the season, so that the leaves shall be thoroughly 
blended with the manure, its quality will be much improved. 
Soot makes a very good dressing for the Hyacinth bed, if used 
in moderate quantity, and powdered charcoal seems to give a 
greater intensity to the color. 

There is now hardly any conceivable color which is not to be 
found in the Hyacinth blooms. Many exercise their skill and 
taste in planting them in such a manner that the color of each 
shall increase the effect of that next to it. Those who have the 
opportunity of selecting the bulbs for themselves should take 
those which aré solid and heavy, and have the surface covered 
with a thin clean skin. Avoid those that seem hollow at the 
top, and do not esteem them according to the size, for that varies 
much with the variety, some being always large. Those that are 
large, but light and scaly, and those that are double-crowned, are 
not desirable. The single-crowned, hard, smooth, and usually 
medium-sized bulbs, give the best bloom. The single varieties 
are the best for growing in the house, while in the open bed the 


BULBOUS—ROOTED FLOWERS. 313 


double will give the prettiest flowers, taken singly, and the single 
the most flowers and finest spikes. 

October is the best time for planting, though it can be done 
at any time before the ground freezes. The bulbs should be set 
four inches deep and about six inches apart. The planting 
should be done when the ground is dry enough to be in a fine, 
friable condition, and in dry weather. As soon as the ground 
begins to freeze, and where snow cannot be relied upon for a 
covering, the surface of the bed should receive a light covering of 
leaves or strawy litter, held down by a few sticks so as not to be 
blown off, and thick enough to prevent the frost from penetrating 

into the bed. 
; When grown in pots, those bulbs which have no offsets or 
sprouts near the base, which are perfectly sound, and are the 
heaviest in proportion to their size, should be selected. These 
should be planted in six-inch pots, one in each pot. If it is 
desired to have a succession of bloom, it is well to pot as many 
as it is desired should bloom at one time, and then make another 
potting about three weeks later. The method of potting is this: 
place a bit of broken crock or a pebble over the hole in the bot- 
tom of the pot, then fill in an inch deep of broken pieces of 
crock, or small bits of charcoal, or coarse gravel, or coarse ground 
bones, so as to secure perfect drainage, then fill up to within two 
inches of the top with the soil from the compost already recom- 
mended, composed of rotted sods, cow-dung, and pure sand, 
packing it firmly and nearly solid into the pot; then place the 
bulb on this soil, and fill in around it with more of the same, 
ramming it in firmly with a blunt stick. When finished, the top 
of the bulb should just appear above the soil, and the earth be 
within about half an inch of the rim. Give it a good watering 
now, thoroughly ‘soaking: the whole of the earth in the pot. 
When done potting, let them be taken to a dark, cool, cellar, 
free from frost, the soil kept moist, until the pot is filled with 
roots, which can be ascertained by placing the left hand over the 
top of the pot, inverting it, and then hitting the rim smartly 
22 


314 BULBOUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 


against the edge of bench, or table, or cellar-bin, so as to knock 
the ball of earth loose from the pot, when the pot can be gently 
lifted with the right hand enough to see whether the white roots 
have run through the soil. When they have filled the earth 
with roots, then they are ready to be removed to the room in 
which they are to bloom; there they should be placed in the 

window, where they will have abundance of light, and can be 
maintained at a temperature not colder than fifty at night, or 
more than seventy-five by day. 

They will now soon begin to show leaves and push forth the 
flower stalk, and will require to be watered oftener, enough to 
keep the soil moist, not wet, but when the flowers are beginning 
to open, the watering may be increased, and the ground kept well 
saturated. After they have become expanded, the flowers will 
last longer if the temperature of the air can be kept at about 
sixty during the day, but this is not an easy matter in the 
sitting-room, where one likes to have the flowers, that their 
beauty and fragrance may be constantly enjoyed. 

After the plants have done blooming, the watering must be 
gradually diminshed until the leaves become yellow, when it 
should cease, and the pots be laid on their sides on a shelf in the 
cellar, there to remain until wanted for planting in October. It 
is not desirable to flower a Hyacinth bulb in a pot more than 
once, the next year the pot-flowered bulbs should be planted in 
the open border, and a new stock secured for potting. 

Hyacinths may be grown in pots of moss or pure sand, first 
putting the drainage into the bottom of the pot as already directed, 
and using moss or pure sand instead of soil for planting the bulb. 
Or, they may be grown in water, either in glasses, known as 
Hyacinth glasses, which can be obtained of the florist, of various 
patterns, or, instead of a glass, in a Turnip or Carrot hollowed 
out so as to hold the bulb and sufficient water below it. By 
hollowing out the root in such a way as to leave a part of the 
crown in a circle around the Hyacinth, the leaves will grow up 
out of the root and conceal the bulb, producing a pleasing effect. 


BULBOUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 315 


The glass or hollowed root should be filled with water just so 
that the bottom of the bulb may touch the water. Rain-water is 
the best for this purpose, and for watering those growing in pots, 
and should be luke-warm when used. After the bulbs have been 
set in this manner, on water, they should be kept in a dark place 
until the glass is nearly filled with roots, when they should be 
brought to the light. It will save the necessity of changing the 
water if a bit or two of charcoal is placed in it, but if this be not 
done, the water should be renewed about once a week, using 
tepid water. Bulbs flowered in water will not bloom the next 
year, and are usually thrown away when done flowering. If it 
is desired to preserve them they should be planted in earth as 
soon as the flowers fade, and if well cared for they will bloom 
again the second year. 

It is utterly useless to give our readers a list of names of 
choice Hyacinths, for in a few years they would drop out of the 
florist’s catalogues to make way for new comers. The named 
varieties are sold at higher prices than the unnamed, but these 
can be purchased in different colors kept distinct, and either 
_ single or double. Nor is it of any practical benefit to describe 
the methods used for increasing or propagating them, it being 
much more economical to buy them already grown. 

AMARYLLIS.—These bulbs require very different treatment 
from the Hyacinths, and can not be relied upon for out-door cul- 
ture in our climate, but for the green-house or window many of 
them are very desirable. They do not require that the soil should 
be made very rich with manures, but flourish best in good sandy 
loam, or old rotted turf that has been made quite light with sand, 
and is somewhat rough and lumpy. The bottom of the pot 
should be filled with a couple of inches of drainage, over which 
is placed a little moss to prevent the soil from washing into 
and choking it up. This is the more important because these 
bulbs will not require re-potting for several years, indeed flourish 
much better if allowed to remain without being re-potted, pro- 
vided the soil be kept sweet and the drainage perfect. When 


316 BULBOUS—ROOTED FLOWERS. 


potted, the top of the bulb should be level with the rim of the 
pot, and the soil half an inch below the rim, so as to admit of 
easy watering. When first planted it should be watered copiously. 

After being potted they should be placed in a temperature of 
about fifty degrees, and not be watered again until the leaves 
begin to grow. When these begin to start the pots may be 
brought into a room where the temperature is about seventy 
degrees, gradually increasing the watering as the leaves and 
flower-scape increase in size. The best time for starting the 
bulbs into growth is in January, and the heat while the plant is 
blooming should be hardly as great as after it is done blooming 
and while it is perfecting its leaf growth. After that is per- 
fected, which will: usually be in July, the watering should be 
gradually diminished, so that they may be at rest about the first 
of October. While at rest they should be kept in a temperature 
never lower than fifty degrees, and if possible, not much above 
sixty degrees. 

While at rest they should never be watered again until they 
begin to grow. When they are ready they will start, and water- 
ing before this time only tends to injure the roots and produce 
decay. Asa rule they will begin to grow in January, and attain 
their full growth in July. Just after they have attained their 
full growth, which may be known by the leaves ceasing to 
elongate, is the best time to re-pot the bulbs, if it be necessary ; 
but re-potting should be avoided as long as the soil remains 
sweet. After re-potting they will require to be kept in the shade 
for a few days, until again established, giving just water enough 
to prevent the leaves from flagging. Indeed, after the growth is 
over, this is all the water that any of them will require. But in 
treating these bulbs we should not be guided by the almanac, 
but by the indications of the bulbs themselves. Sometimes 
they will have completed their growth by May, and show a dis- 
position to rest; such a disposition should be humored, and 
water withheld until the plant shows that it requires it again, 
by starting once more into growth. Sometimes they will take 


BULBOUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 317 


a midsummer rest and bloom again in autumn, and make a 
second growth after the second bloom, and during this period of 
growth they will require careful watering. , 

Seedlings can be grown by sowing the seed in June, keeping 
the soil moderately moist until the young plants appear, 
then increase the waterings as their growth demands, and keep 
them growing as long as they are willing. By keeping the 
ground a little damp while they are at rest, they may be kept in 
foliage for a couple of years, when they should be treated as old 
bulbs. The third year many of them will show bloom. 

The following varieties will be found to be the most manage- 
able and desirable for green-house or window culture. 

Belladonna.—The Belladonna Lily, as it is often called, 
requires only that care should be taken to grow the foliage well 
after the bloom is over, and if this be attended to, it will be 
found to be of easy culture, under the treatment above described. 
The pot may be plunged in the open border about the middle of 
June, and allowed to flower there, but it must be removed to 
the window or green-house ‘to perfect its leaf-growth before the 
appearance of frost. The flowers are produced in spikes, and are 
of a lovely rose color. 

Formosissimus.—This is the variety so well known under the 
name of Jacobean Lily. In some parts of the country it may be 
grown in the open border, when the season is long enough to 
admit of its being put out in May, but it will do best to grow it 
in a pot, and treat it as a window or green-house plant, in the 
manner already described. Its flowers are a brilliant scarlet, 
and appear before the leaves. 

Purpurea (Vallota).—This retains its leaves all the year 
round, and should not be dried off like the others, but receive 
less water in winter or when taking its rest. Its natural habitat 
ia in wet grounds; hence it requires to be abundantly supplied 
with water during the growing season. It has very brilliant 
scarlet flowers, which are produced in great abundance. 

Johnsont.—Is a very handsome hybrid‘variety, requiring the 


318 BULBOUS—-ROOTED FLOWERS 


same treatment as Belladonna, and produces scarlet flowers with 
a white stripe. 

Vittatum.—Exceedingly pretty. The flowers are white, with 
a red stripe. Should be treated in the ordinary manner. 

Croctus.—The pretty spring-flowering Crocus, succeeding the 
Snow-drop in their period of bloom, are very easily grown, 
requiring only to be planted in a light, but rich, moist soil, and 
left to grow as they please, giving them an annual top-dressing 
of very old and most thoroughly decomposed manure. They 
should be planted in the fall, about three inches deep, and an 
inch apart each way, and allowed to remain in the same bed for 
a number of years. Such a bed will improve in beauty for some 
time, and will only require to be replanted when the bulbs 
begin to grow out of the ground—for the young bulb is annually 
produced upon the top of the old, and in process of time 
approaches the surface. 

The Crocus beds require the same treatment as. directed for 
Hyacinths, and indeed, it is desirable to plant them together in 
the same bed, so that after the Crocus are done blooming the 
Hyacinths may take their place. They may be also grown in 
pots in the house, or in water or sand. They should be allowed 
to make their root growth in a cool place, and when the flower- 
buds appear, have plenty of light and air, and not too much heat. 

The Autumn-flowering Crocus are botanically different plants 
from the other, and are called Colchicum. These are perfectly 
hardy, and as easy of culture as the spring Crocus. They throw 
up their flower stalk and blossom late in autumn, but the leaves 
and seed appear next spring. 

The Spring Crocus are yellow, blue, purple, white, and 
siziped ; the Autumn are purple and white. 

Daunuia.—This is not strictly a bulbous-rooted, but tuberous- 
rooted plant, which requires treatment so analagous to that of 
some bulbs, that it seems more natural to treat of it in this 
connection. 

The Dahlia profers a deep, very rich, friable loam, one that is 


BULBOUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 319 


not readily affected by drought, nor surcharged with water. 
Varieties that have been in cultivation long enough to enable the 
cultivator to obtain a stock of tubers, are usually sent out in the 
dormant or just starting tuber, but new and scarce varieties 
are received in the growing state, in small pots. Neither the 
tubers nor the plants should be set out in the open ground un‘u 
all danger from frost is past, and as the stalk grows it should be 
tied to a tall stake. They will give better satisfaction if planted 
where they will be sheltered from very high winds, which often 
injure the plants severely. “After the autumn frosts have killed 
the foliage, the stalk should be cut off just above the ground, 
the tubers taken up and removed to a dry, frost-proof cellar. 
Those who have a green-house can keep them very well under 
the stage. Two things are to be avoided, keeping them so dry 
and warm that the tubers shrivel, and keeping them so cold and 
damp that the stalk or crown rots. The eyes or buds are at the 
base of the stalk or on the neck of the tuber, and if these buds be 
destroyed the Dahlia will not grow, for though the tuber be 
ever so sound, there are no eyes or buds upon that, and it has 
no means of growth. Hence it is important that the part where 
these eyes are situate should be kept sound. 

Dahlias are propagated by division of the tuber, taking care 
that each piece has an eye or bud upon it; also by cuttings of 
the young shoots, which are taken off when an inch or two in 
length, and rooted in bottom heat. As soon as they are well 
rooted they are planted in small pots, and kept in a frame or in 
the green-house until the weather will admit of their being 
planted in the open ground. 

New sorts are raised from seed, usually sown in pots in 
spring, and afterwards transplanted. Most of these will be likely 
to prove worthless, yet in the hands of the skilful florist some 
choice flowers are very sure to be produced, and for a time com: 
mand a high price. As new flowers are, in this way, being con- 
stantly produced, it is better that the intending purchaser should 
make his selection from the lists that are offered in the cata- 


320 BULBOUS—ROOTED FLOWERS. 


logues of the florists, than be guided by any selection that the 
writer might now name. 

The Dahlia is now produced in high perfection, quite unlike 
the single flowers, with yellow disk and dull scarlet rays, which 
it bore on its introduction to England, about the beginning of 
the present century. It is now most beautifully double, and of 
every color except blue, and with every conceivable variegation. 
The Pompone varieties produce much smaller flowers than the 
Dahlia proper, and are, therefore, more desirable for bouquets. 
All the Dahlias flower best in cool, moist seasons, and when the 
summers are hot, wait for the more favorable weather of Septem- 
ber before they come perfect. 

Tue Fririntary.—fitillaria.—We do not often see any 
other examples of this genus in our gardens than the Crown 
Imperials. The Gutnea-hen flower is also a Fritillary, and 
though not so stately in its appearance, is a very interesting 
variety. They all flourish best in a deep, rich, well-drained, 
loamy soil, and when once planted should be seldom disturbed. 

The Crown Imperial is perfectly hardy, grows to a height of 
two feet in favorable soil, bearing a tuft of leaves upon the top, 
beneath which are the flowers. There are a number of varieties, 
producing flowers of several shades of red and yellow, single and 
double, and with golden and silver variegated foliage. The 
bulbs should be planted in October, about six inches deep, and 
remain in the ground all the year. 

The English Fritillary, or Guinea-hen flower, is of far less 
pretentious growth, and produces pretty pendant flowers, which 
are peculiarly marbled or tesselated. They are usually of a pur- 
ple shade, some nearly red, or yellow and white. The bulbs are 
much smaller than those of the Crown Imperial, and should not 
be set more than half as deep. They flower in May. The dark- 
colored varieties seem to be more hardy than the light, and not 
so liable to perish. , 

GapioLus.—Why it is that these beautiful flowers have not 
found their way more universally into the gardens of our people, 


BULBOUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 321 


it might be difficult to tell. Our climate is well suited to their 
growth and culture, much better in most of the Dominion than 
that of England or France, and they require no more care than a 
Potato. Indeed, we are inclined to believe, that with a covering 


Fig. 68. 

of leaves or strawy litter that would keep out the frost, where 
the winters are open, and with none at all where the snow keeps 
the ground from freezing, they could be wintered safely in the 
soil. Yet the better and safer method is to take them up in 
October, let the bulbs or corms dry for a day or two, and then 
put them away in a cool, dry place, free from frost. We are in 
the habit of packing them in perfectly dry sand, and find that. 
they never fail to keep in fine condition. 


322 BULBOUS-—ROOTED FLOWERS. 


To grow the Gladiolus in perfection, it is necessary to avoid 
all soils that are cold and wet, and that is uniformly the character 
of those that are badly drained. Care should also be taken in 
the use of manures, avoiding all that are fresh, partially fermented, 
or undecomposed ; these tend to produce disease in the bulbs. 
The best manure for them is that which was also recommended 
for Hyacinths ; old cow-dung, thoroughly rotted, or composted 
with rotten sods and ground bone. If the soil be a clayey loam, 
it will be of advantage to turn it up in the fall and leave it rough, 
that it may be well exposed to the action of the frost. After 
the weather has become settled in May, the ground should be 
dug over and the manure thoroughly mingled with the soil, and 
the bulbs planted out about ten inches apart each way, and five 
inches deep. 

This is the whole secret of Gladiolus-raising save one, and 
that is this: our own amateurs might, with a little attention to 
selection and hybridization, raise much better new varieties from 
seed than are now raised for them in Europe, and whicsa, when 
first sent out, cost from two to five dollars each bulb. So much 
better is our climate for the perfect development of the Gladiolus, 
that the seedlings which have been grown in America are much 
finer as a whole than any that can be imported. If the seed be 
gathered as soon as it is ripe, and sown the next spring in a frame 
or in pots, the young plants will grow finely, and will show bloom 
the third year. From these the finest may be selected, and the 
work of raising new and beautiful varieties be continued. 

The varieties once obtained are increased by multiplication 
of the bulbs. After the bulb has become large enough to flower 
it will begin to multiply, and if the little tiny bulbs at the base 
of the old bulb are saved and kept out of ground for one season 
and then sown, they will all grow, increase in size, and the second 
year produce flowers. 

The flowers are produced on tall spikes and are of a great 
variety of colors. They appear in the end of July and continue 
during August, and until early frosts. We name a few of the 


BULBOUS—ROOTED FLOWERS. 323 


sider sorts, which can be obtained at a reasonable price, partly 
to put our readers in the way of obtaining a pretty collection of 
choice varieties, and in part, to give them an idea of the color 
and markings of the flowers. 

Aristotle—Rose color, variegated with red and striped with 
carmine and purple. 

Ceres.—Pure white, with rose and violet spots. 

Flora.—White ground shaded with rosy lilac, and a distinct 
stain of deep rose on each petal. 

Jeanne d’ Arc.—White, very slightly tinted with rose, and 
striped and stained with violet. 

Milton.—White, delicately tinted with rose and broadly 
flamed with red. 

Mons Vinehon.—Light salmon-red, variegated and lined with 
white. 

WNorma.—Pure white, slightly blazed with lilac. 

Peter Lawson.—Rosy lilac, with white satin shade. 

Princess of Wales,—White, flamed with rose and blotched 
with dark carmine. 

Raphael.—Red vermilion, centre lighted with white and 
shaded with purple. 

Reine Victoria.— Pure white, with large carmine-violet 
blotch. 

Rubens.—Very bright light vermilion. Stains striped with 
carmine on a whitish ground. 

These will be sufficient to give an idea of their appearance. 
Those who wish to go further can consult the annual lists of 
dealers. 

As cut flowers they are very useful, for if the stalk be cut 
just as the first flowers open, and put in water, all the buds on 
the stalk will open in succession. On this account they are very 
valuable for parlor or dining-room decoration. 

Ints.—The bulbous-rooted Iris have been sufficiently described 
at page 299. Those known as the English, Spanish and Persian 
are the most easily obtained and the most desirable in our climate. 


324 BULBOUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 


These may also be grown in the house in pots or in moss or sand, 
or in water, in the manner prescribed for Hyacinths. 

Tue Lity.—There is no need of any description of the beauty 
of this flower. In some of its varieties it is known to all; its 
loveliness has been spoken of by writers, sacred and profane, and 
pleasant emotions are awakened at the mere mention of its 
name. 

Fortunately, nearly all the species known to us are sufficiently 
hardy to endure our climate, and thrive well in our gardens with 
but little attention. A collection of all these would be a treasure. 
house of beauty and enjoyment, rivalling even the Rose in queenly 
splendor and sweet perfume. Not one but has some attraction 
of its own, from the nodding Lily of our Canadian meadows to 
the amethystine spots and golden band of those from Japan. 
Nor are we at the end of the list; every year some new species 
rewards the searcher in new climes, and the Lilies of California 
are just being introduced for our admiration and delight. 

In common with most bulbs, they grow best in well-drained, 
loamy soil, in which the sandy character predominates, and 
which is kept rich by the use of thoroughly-rotted manures. If 
the soil be naturally an adhesive clay, it will be necessary to 
remove some of the clay, and add enough sand to make it light ; 
and if the subsoil be retentive, it will be a great improvement to 
remove some of the stiff clay and put in broken stone or gravel, 
with an under-drain leading from the bed to a convenient outlet. 

It is very desirable that Lilies should be kept out of the 
ground as short a time as possible. Many of the imported Lilies 
fail altogether, or make but a feeble growth the first season, be- 
cause the drying which the bulbs undergo while out of the ground 
weakens them. They should therefore be planted as soon as 
received, large bulbs requiring to be set six inches deep and 
small bulbs about four. The best season for transplanting most 
varieties is the month of Ovtober, when they are at rest. 

Lilies are usually propagated by oifsets—the smail bulbs 
which form about the parent plant; and whenever the bed is 


BULBOUS—ROOTED FLOWERS. 325 


becoming crowded it will be necessary to take them all up and 
separate them. Except for this cause, it will not be necessary 
_to disturb them. 

The following varieties are well worthy of cultivation, and 
without exception will winter safely in the ground. 

Canadense.—This is the nodding Lily of our meadows, which 
gratefully responds to the care of garden cultivation, increasing 
in the size and number of its blooms. 

Candidum.—For purity and fragrance this old favorite 
cannot be surpassed. Perfectly hardy, thriving in any garden, 
yet grateful for a little care, which it repays a hundred-fold, 
filling the air with its sweetness, and arrayed in snowy white, 
adorning alike the garden of the cottager or of the king. It 
is in bloom-in July. There are varieties with golden and 
silver striped leaves, with spotted, and striped, and double 
flowers, but they are no improvement on the plain, single, pure 
white Lily. 

Chalcedonicum.—Is very showy, the color being a very 
brilliant scarlet, 

Eacelsum.—Grows as tall as Candidum, the flowers are a 
Nankeen yellow. 

Lancifolium.—There are several varieties of this species, but 

_all are beautiful and very fragrant. They are delicately spotted 
with ruby-red or rose-colored dots, and when once established in 
good, loamy, well-drained soil, they will continue to increase in 
the number and beauty of their flowers. 

Longiflorum.—tThe flowers are trumpet-shaped, from six to 
nine inches in length, white, and very fragrant. Where the 
winters are open, this species should be protected by a light 
covering of litter. 

Superbum.—A very showy species, often producing twenty 
flowers on a stalk, which are of a handsome reddish-orange color. 

Tigrinum.—The Tiger Lily has become almost as well-known 
as the White, and is a deserved favorite, being very hardy, and 
producing an abundance of showy orange-scarlet flowers, spotted 


326 BULBOUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 


with black. It produces little bulbs in the axils of the leaves, 
and multiplies very rapidly. 

Those who desire to cultivate some of the green-house 
species cannot fail to be pleased with Auratum, the Golden- 
banded Lily from Japan, noted for its size, beauty, and fragrance ; 
Giganteum, a very tall-growing white species from the Hima- 
layas; Thompsonianum, from India, which produces rose-colored 
flowers ; and Concolor, with brilliant red flowers, from China. 

Lilium Brownii.—We have not tested the hardihood of this 
species, it is scarce and high-priced, but it is a most magnificent 
trumpet-shaped flower, of large size, white within and purple 
without, and very fragrant. 

Tue Naroissus.—The hardy species require the same treat- 
ment as that recommended for the Hyacinth. They thrive best 
in rich, sandy loam, and should remain in the ground until the 

‘imerease of bulbs makes it necessary to divide them. 

Poeticus.—One of the most beautiful of this class. There 
are double and semi-double varieties; all are perfectly hardy in 
well-drained soil. The flowers are snow-white withe cream-colored 
cup, the edge of which is delicately fringed with red. 

Bulbicodium.—This is the hoop-petticoat Narcissus, pro- 
ducing large, bright yellow flowers. The leaves are small and 
tush-like. It thrives best in a somewhat sheltered position, and 
is the better, in open winters, for a slight covering. 

Bicolor.—Perfectly hardy, but not very common. The 
flowers have a white cup and yellow crown. 

Pseudo-Narcissus.—The Daffodil, so well known and gene- 
rally admired for its double, golden-yellow flowers. Perfectly 
hardy in well-drained soil. 

Jonquilla.—The Jonquil, much esteemed for its fragant, 
bright yellow flowers. Very hardy and free-flowering. Makes 
a fine window-plant for late winter blooming. , 

The Poranravus Narcissus are not sufficiently hardy tc 
endure our climate without careful protection, and the yearly 
taking up of the bulbs when the leaves die oif, in order to pre- 


BULBOUS—ROOTED FLOWERS. 327 


vent them from starting in the fall. But they are beautiful 
things for the house, blooming well with the same treatment as 
that laid down for the Hyacinth. 

Snowprop.—Galanthus.—This delicate, frail-looking flower 
is our first harbinger of spring, telling us that winter is passing 
away. It hardly looks as though it could hold out against the 
tough blasts that toss it so rudely, but it struggles bravely on 
through all the adverse storms and snows, hiding its face until 
the storm be past, and looking up with a-cheery smile when it 
ig over. It is ever a favorite flower, simple yet pretty, lovely in 
itself, and for braving the storms, as if anxious to cheer us with 
sight of flowers after the long desolation of winter. 

The Snowdrop is perfectly hardy, thrives well in any good 
garden soil, but better in a bed enriched with well-rotted cow 
manure, and if the soil be heavy, made light by the addition of 
sand. The bulbs should be planted in October, between two 
and three inches deep, in clusters of from twenty to thirty bulbs, 
leaving about an inch and a half of space between them. Here 
they should remain until they become so crowded that it is neces- 
sary to divide them. If some are planted on the south side of 
the house, or other sunny spot, they will bloom very early, and 
by planting another bed in some less favored exposure, they may 
be had in succession for a considerable time. They look well 
planted with the spring-flowering Crocus, contrasting finely with 
its more gaudy colors. There are two species in cultivation, the 
G. Nivalis, of which there are both single and double varieties ; 
and Plicatus, a Russian variety, twice as large as the English, 
and with taller flower stems. 

Another flower blooming later, called Snowflake, has been 
sometimes mistaken for the Snowdrop. It is the Leucojum. 
Two species of this are grown in our gardens. L. Vernum, a 
native of Germany and Italy, is somewhat tender, and thrives 
best in a peaty soil; L. Gistivwm, a native of England, perfectly 
hardy, produces white flowers with bright green spots. 

Tue Ticker Frower.—Tigridia.—These bulbs are not hardy, 


328 BULBOUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 


and require to be kept over winter in a dry place, free from frost, 
and out of the reach of mice. They should not be planted until 
the ground has become warm in spring, and then set about three 
inches deep in soil that is deep, light, and rich. They show to 
best advantage planted in clumps or masses. The flowers are 
very pretty and brilliant, each lasting only for a day, but renewed 
by a succession of blooms for several weeks. They appear in 
August and September. In October, when the frost has killed 
the foliage, the bulbs should be taken up, thoroughly dried, and 
stowed away in dry sand. 

Pavonia.—The flowers of this species are of the richest scar- 
let, variegated with bright yellow and spotted with dark brown. 

Conchiflora.—This species produces rich, orange-colored 
flowers, variegated with light yellow and spotted with black. 

Tuserose.—Poliauthes Tuberosa.—One of the most deli- 
ciously scented and lovely of all our flowers, blooming in the end 
of summer and throughout the autumn. It has but to be seen 
to be admired, and no one who has once enjoyed its exquisite 
perfume will ever willingly be deprived of it in its season. One 
flower will fill the whole room with its fragrance, and no bouquet, 
from August to Christmas, is complete without it. Being a 
native of India, it requires plenty of warmth, and will not endure 
frost, yet it is of simple culture when once its requirements are 
understood. 

In the first place, the proper time to obtain the tubers is in 
October, before they have had time to become injured by improper 
treatment. Those grown in America are just as good as the 
imported, hence there,is no necessity of looking to Europe any 
longer for a supply. Having procured the tubers, keep them dry 
and warm. until they are wanted for planting. If they are kept 
in a temperature below 50° the flower germ will decay, and 
though the bulb may appear sound outwardly and throw out an 
abundance of leaves, it will never flower. Those who have green- 
houses can keep them alongside the flue, those who have not 
must store them in some warm room where they will be kept at a 


BULBOUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 329 


temperature of twenty degrees above freezing, night or day. It 
is not enough to keep them, like Gladiolus, or Potatoes, free from 
frost. If thus kept they will remain sound, and there will be no 
difficulty in getting them to bloom. 

If it is desired to have them in bloom early in August, it will 
be necessary to start them about the first of May, either in green- 
house, hot-bed, or warm room. The secret of flowering them 
well lies in keeping the roots well supplied with food, and as 
warm as possible. A soil composed of the same material as that 
recommended for Hyacinths, in which the old cow-manure is 
supplied even more liberally, and made quite light by the use of 
sand if needed, is just the thing in which to plant the Tuberose. 
If the hot-bed is used, the pots in which the bulbs are planted 
should be plunged to the rim, and the temperature maintained 
at about seventy-five. After they begin to grow they will require 
all the sun and air that can be given, having a care to keep the 
temperature as uniform as possible, and protecting well from 
frosty nights by a mat thrown over the sashes. As they increase 
their growth it will be necessary to increase the amount of water- 
ing, and when the summer is far enough advanced the sashes 
need be no longer used. Towards the end of June they may 
either be plunged or carefully turned out into the open border. 
For later flowering they do well planted in the ground about the 
tenth of June, in warm, rich, well drained soil. If wanted for 
the green-house or window, in November or December, they may 
be potted in July and August, plunged in a frame or in the open 
border where they will have all the sun-light and heat possible, 
and before the advent of the first frost brought into the house. 

After the bulb has once flowered it is of no further use except 
to the propagator ; it will never flower again. The offsets that’ 
are attached to it can be-grown into flowering bulbs in a couple 
of years, but this is hardly worth the trouble so long as full-grown 
flowering bulbs can be obtained at such trifling cost from any of 
our nurserymen or florists. 

There are two varieties, the single and the double flowering, 

23 


330 BULBOUS—ROOTED FLOWERS. 


both very desirable and equally fragrant, the single variety pos- 
sessing the advantage of coming into bloom about a fortnight 
earlier than the double. In the neighborhood of the large cities 
of the United States a considerable trade is carried on in the 
flowers, which bring a dollar a hundred in the summer, and ten 
dollars in winter, and as each bulb will produce some twenty 
flowers, it will yield, if flowered at the time of high prices, many 
times its cost by the sale of the blossoms. 

Tur Turir.—There is no need of any description of this 
much-admired flower, and now that the bulbs may be obtained 
at such very low prices, every one may indulge his fondness for 
their pretty blossoms by planting a bed of Tulips. And it is 
when massed in a bed that their full beauty is brought out. 
They are very hardy plants, requiring no very special care except 
in one particular, and that is that the ground be thoroughly 
drained, for they will not bear water in the soil. It is not neces- 
sary that the soil be very rich. Any good garden will grow 
them well. Nor is it important that the bulbs should be taken 
up every summer, although it is usually recommended, on the 
ground that if the bulbs remain in the earth for several years 
they “run out.” But as every year brings some new additions 
to the list of Tulips, by the time those that we have planted 
run out, we are ready to set out a new bed of those of later intro- 
duction, and are quite willing to dispense with the old. 

The Due Van Thol are the earliest to bloom ; they are both 
single and double. The double are red with a yellow border, 
the single of many colors, white, scarlet, crimson, yellow, etc. 
The plants are of dwarf habit, only growing about six inches 
high. 

The Tournesul succeeds the foregoing in time of flowering. 
The blooms are red and yellow, or golden yellow, and very large 
and double. They keep in bloom for a long time and are very 
showy. 

The Harly Single Tulips of every shade of red, violet, purple, 
crimson, yellow, etc., striped, flaked and marbled, come next in 


BEDDING PLANTS. . 331 


order, and mdke a fine showy bed, which continues for a consider- 
able length of time. Our Florists’ catalogues abound with names 
of these, with markings more or less distinct, from which each 
may make selection according to his fancy, or the fulness of his 
purse. : 

The Double Tulips are great favorites with many. They are 
exceedingly beautiful, and may be had of various colors, which 
may be selected in the same way. 

The Parrot Tulips are singularly formed, the petals being 
long and fringed. They are very attractive, from the singular 
appearance of the flower, and the striking combination of colors 
which they present. 

The Late Tulips are divided into Byblooms, white ground 
marked with purple or lilac ; Roses, white ground marked with 
scarlet, crimson or pink; and Bizarres, yellow ground, with 
markings of any color other than yellow. 

These are the favorite florist’s flowers, new and choice varieties 
commanding high prices. Here, too, selection can be made from 
hundreds of names, at prices ranging from five cents each to as 
many dollars as one may wish to give. Yet a very fine selection 
of a hundred bulbs can be made for five dollars, embracing as 
many as fifty sorts. 


BEDDING PLANTS. 


All the plants which are mentioned under this head are too 
tender to endure much frost. It is therefore necessary, either 
that they be allowed to perish on the approach of winter, or that 
they be removed to the green-house. Those who do not keep a 
green-house will find it to be much more satisfactory, and more 
economical, to purchase a new supply of bedding plants every 
spring, and enjoy their beauty and fragrance while the summer 
lasts. The keeping of a large number of plants in an ordinary 
dwelling house is not only attended with considerable inconve- 
nience, but the plants seldom get through in good health. And 


332 BEDDING PLANTS. 


when they do, they are not of a suitable age and size for bedding 
out. 

Only the more useful and desirable of the plants which are 
used for this purpose are described, and such hints given, under 
each flower, as seem likely to prove useful to that great- mass of 
cultivators who must content themselves with their summer 
culture. 

Tue Verpena.—This flower is the most popular and gene- 
rally planted of all the bedding plants. Beginning to flower 
when the plants are quite small, and even before tlfe weather is 
warm. enough for planting in the open air, it continues to bloom 
all the summer long, and even through the autumn, until severe 
frosts stop its growth. The flowers are of every color except 
yellow, some of them handsomely eyed, and others striped and 
mottled. They are borne in trusses, composed of many separate 
flowers, and these are so numerous as to cover the bed completely. 

Young and healthy plants should be selected about the first 
of June, avoiding those with crumpled and misshapen foliage. 
For effective bedding display, those flowers are to be preferred 
which have not a large eye, and are not striped. Clear, bright, 
self-colors, when massed, are much more brilliant and showy. 

The soil should be deep and rich, and free from all surplus 
moisture. The Verbena in its wild state grows on dry hills, and 
will not endure an excess of wet. If, however, this condition be 
granted, that is, the bed be thoroughly drained, the texture of the 
soil is of little consequence, it will grow in any, from light sand 
to quite strong clay. It is, however, important that it be well 
enriched ; for this purpose all coarse, undecomposed and fer- 
menting manures should be avoided, and that selected which 
has been thoroughly rotted. Having incorporated the manure 
thoroughly with the soil, and made the surface smooth and fine, 
the plants may be set out about eighteen inches apart each way. 
The various colors may be arranged to suit the taste of the 
planter. 

It is desirable to plant in the latter part of the day, so that 


BEDDING PLANTS. | 333 


the plants will not suffer from the heat of the sun. After plant- 
ing it is usually necessary to give them a thorough sprinkling 
through a fine rose, to settle the soil about the plants. Beyond 
this they will seldom require any attention other than to keep 
the ground free from weeds, and give it an occasional stirring 
and loosening around the plants. Inexperienced cultivators are 
very apt to give the Verbena too much water. If the soil be as 
rich as it should be, it is very seldom indeed that the Verbena 
bed will require water. 

Those who wish to keep Verbenas over winter, either in the 
dwelling-house or in the green-house, should never take up the 
old plants that have been blooming all summer in the garden. 
They never do well, and will probably die before spring. In 
order to grow them in the house successfully they should obtain 
young plants. These may be obtained by selecting one or two 
plants of each variety it is desired to grow through the winter, 
and about the tenth of August cutting off.all the flowers and 
seed vessels, and about six inches from the ends of the shoots. 
The object is to start the plant into a fresh and vigorous growth, 
hence whatever may tend to facilitate this may be done at this 
time, such as stirring the soil and adding a dressing of compost. 

After the plants have started into a fresh growth, cuttings of 
the new and tender shoots, which will be sufficiently grown by 
the middle of September, may be taken from them and struck 
in a little pure sand ‘with a gentle bottom heat. Cuttings of 
fresh growth only should be-used, and as soon as rooted should 
be potted off in small pots. These plants will grow well during 
the winter, and will afford cuttings in March and April, from 
which plants may be struck for summer planting. 

It is not necessary that any list of names should be given. 
Each one may select from the nurseryman’s list such as please 
best ; all are beautiful, many are fragrant, and no one gan fail of 
obtaining a bed of beautiful flowers that will be gay all the 
season. Besides, our uorists are constantly producing new varie- 
ties from seed, and those that stand in the front rank to-day 
will soon be crowded out by new comers. 


334 BEDDING PLANTS. 


Tue Heiorrore.—tThis plant is valued for the sweetness 
and delicacy of its perfume more than for the beauty of its 
flowers. It is of easy culture, growing freely in any rich and 
well drained garden soil. It should be planted in the open air 
after all fear of late frosts is over, aud taken in before the early 
autumn frosts come on, for it is more tender than the Verbena, 
and apt to be injured by even a slight freezing. 

‘The flowers vary from a very pale lilac to a deep purple, are 
individually small, but produced in close trusses or corymbs. 
They bloom profusely all the time they are in growth, and make 
excellent window plants if allowed plenty of room. Being sensi- 
tive under removals, it is important when they are taken out 
of the border that the transplanting should be done with care, 
disturbing the root as little as possible. They flourish best when 
they have plenty of pot room, or indeed, if in the green-house, 
they have a border in which the roots may ramble. 

When a plant is taken up from the open border in autumn 
for window culture in winter, it should be pruned back so as to 
remove the soft wood and kept for some time in a cool room. 
Before the frosts become severe enough to penetrate the place 
where it was placed, it should be removed to a warm room. 
There its buds will soon break and the plant begin to grow, 
yielding an abundance of sweét-scented flowers. 

It is propagated by cuttings of the soft wood, which strike 
freely in bottom heat. New varieties are raised from seed. The 
best now in cultivation are The Gem and Voltaireanum, with 
dark flowers’; Oculata, violet with white centre; Jersey Beauty 
and Jean Mesmer, light blue; and Garibaldi, nearly white. 
Pauline Pfitzer,’a new lilac-colored flower, is a splendid bedder, 
on account of the immense size of the truss and its profuseness 
of bloom. 

Tue, Cotzus.—These are useful bedding plants in those 
parts of Canada where the summers are hot and the nights not 
chilly. Their beauty consists entirely in the color of the leaves 
and not in their flowers, and this is brought fully out only in 


BEDDING PLANTS. 335 


hot weather. They are not only sensitive to frost but to cool 
weather, requiring considerable heat to keep them in a vigorous 
growth. Hence they are not easily wintered in the dwelling- 
house, where thére is a great variation between the night and 
day temperature, nor cven in a cool green-house ; the propagating- 
room or the stove is the best place for them. 

The best and most showy bedding variety is Verschaffeltit ; 
besides this, Queen Victoria, Albert Victor, Her Majesty, and 
Princess Beatrice, are beautiful plants. There are many other 
varieties, but the foregoing are quite sufficient for all our pur- 
poses. 

Tue Bovvarp1a.—But little has been done among us with this 
most lovely flower as a bedding plant, yet it is one of the most free 
flowering and beauti- 
ful plants we have, 
blooming when not 
more than three 
inches in height and 
naturally forming a 
nice bushy plant, 
which is covered. all 
the season with blos- 
soms. Itis not easy 
to account for this 
want of attention, for 
among the beautiful 
things of the garden Fig. 69. 
there is scarce anything more beautiful than a fine bed of the 
Bouvardia. 

* We have grown it in rich sandy loam, and know that it thrives 
well in such soil. We cannot say how well it will adapt itself 
to heavier soils, but those who desire to make the experiment 
must take care that the bed be perfectly underdrained, so that 
there shall be no excess of wet to render the soil cold and sour. 
Plants that have been shifted from “thumbs” into four inch pots, 


336 BEDDING PLANTS. 


and pinched back, so as to be stout and bushy, are the best for 
bedding out. 

Another and more common use made of the Bouvardia, by 
florists, is that of winter forcing for green-house decoration and 
the making of winter boquets. For this purpose it is without a 
rival, indeed quite indispensable. Nothing surpasses it, in its 
several varieties, in brilliancy of color; nor anything, save the 
Jessamine itself, in delicate purity and sweetness of perfume. 

For pot culture it should be planted in rich, fibry loam, 
that is, rotted turf, made light by the admixture of sand, and 
rich with old, well-rotted manure. In potting, care should be 
used to secure perfect drainage, and if the plants are taken from 
the open border, they should be lifted with care, leaving a ball 
of earth about the roots if possible. After being potted they 
will require careful watering and shading until they recover from 
the shift. They must not be exposed to even a slight frost, but 
should have all the light and air possible before they go into 
winter quarters. 

Plants intended for winter blooming should not be allowed 
to flower during the summer, but should be kept well pinched in. 
To make nice bushy plants the tops should be nipped every fort- 
night. Those that have been used as bedding plants should be 
taken up before frost, planted in a box of soil, and allowed to 
rest during the winter, storing them under the stage of the green- 
house. These may be again taken from the box and set out in 
the open bed on the return of summer. 

Aurantiaca.—The flowers are of a bright orange color; the 
plant a very free summer bloomer. 

Hogarth.—Produces splendid racemes of rich carmine flowers. 

Elegans.—The flowers are light scarlet carmine, which are 
borne in very large trusses. Blooms finely in winter, and there- 
fore well adapted for forcing. 

Jasminoides.—A most abundant bloomer, flowers pure white, 
resembling a Jasmine in fragrance and appearance. A charming 
variety. 


BEDDING PLANTS. 337 


Leiantha.—The flowers are a dazzling scarlet. The plant of 
bushy habit, very free flowering and healthy. 

Triphylla.—Flowers bright orange-scarlet, very showy. The 
plant is a free summer bloomer, and is one of the best for bed- 
ding out. 

Tue Peruni1a.—this is a very popular bedding plant, of very 
easy culture, and makes a very showy bed. It grows well in 
any rich garden soil, begins to bloom in June, and continues to 
grow and flower all through the summer, until checked by frost. 
It should be planted always in a bed devoted solely to Petunias, . 
for the plants spread so rapidly, and often grow so Juxuriantly, 
that they are apt to over-run and conceal other plants. They 
may be had of all colors, except blue and yellow, and both sin- 
gle and double. Many are very prettily striped, blotched, and 
spotted. Some are also sweet-scented. They are not suitable 
for bouquets, wilting soon after being cut, but they make a very 
showy bed, and should always be grown in masses, and not as 
single plants. 

Varieties of any desired colors, and single or double, can 
always be obtained at very low prices of our florists, in the bed- 
ding season. Those who do not care for the choicest sorts can 
treat the Petunia as an annual, sow the seed in a hot-bed or cold 
frame, and transplant to the Petunia bed, setting the plants 
about eighteen inches apart. These will begin to bloom in 
July and continue until late in the fall, and though the plants 
will vary greatly in the color and markings of the flowers, yet 
many of them, doubtless, will be very fine, and all of them 
profuse bloomers. 

We do not attempt a list of the named varieties. New kinds 
are being annually brought out, and each can select from the 
tradesmen’s lists such as seem most desirable, without fear of. 
getting a poor flower. The single varieties are the most profuse 
blooming, and to us the most satisfactory, but many prefer 
the double. All are propagated freely by cuttings. 


338 BEDDING PLANTS. 


Tue Lanrana.—This very pretty and very free flowering 
plant has not been as much used among us for bedding purposes 
py as its beauty de- 
serves. It is of 
very easy cul- 
ture, flourishes 
well in any gar- 
den soil, indeed, 
often growing . 
too well, if plant- 
ed in rich soil, 
tunning too 
much to wood 
in proportion to 


the bloom. 
eI It is of a shrub- 
Fig. 70, ‘ by habit, begin- 


ning to flower when from four to six inches high, and continuing 
to increase in size and abundance of bloom until the frost comes. 
The flowers are of various colors, yellow, white, orange, lilac, rose, 
and purple, and these arranged in globular heads, each head, in 
many of the varieties, containing flowers of several colors, A 
bed, containing several varieties of the Lantana, is not to be easily 
surpassed in brilliancy of bloom or attractiveness of coloring. 
Plants obtained at the same time with Verbenas may be 
planted in the open ground, as soon as danger from frost is over. 
They should be set in a bed by themselves, in not very rich, 
but well-drained soil, about two feet apart each way. As soon 
as the first frost blackens the leaves they should be taken up, cut 
well back, and with the roots in a pot or box of earth set under 
the green-house stage, or, if one has no green-house, in a warm 
dry cellar. The soil in the pot or box should be just kept from 
becoming entirely dry. In the spring they may be brought to 
the light and heat, watered more freely, started into growth, 
and when the frosts are over, planted again in the open ground, 


BEDDING PLANTS, 339 


where they will continue to grow and bloom in all their former 

beauty. In the course of three or four years they will become 

too large to be easily handled, when small plants can be again 
had by striking soft wood cuttings in a gentle bottom heat. 

New varieties are raised from seed. 

The following names are given as some of the most desirable 
now in cultivation, and by examining it our readers will be able 
to form some idea of the coloring of the flowers. 

* Alba Lutea Grandifiora.—White and yellow, dwarf habit. 
Aurantiaca.—Varying from deep yellow to bright orange.’ 
Clotilda.—Pink flowers, the centre yellow. 
Eugenie.—Flowers rose and white. 

Gustave T homas.—Rose and orange flowers. 

Monsieur Rougier.—Crimson, scarlet, and yellow. 

Raphael.—Purple, orange, and rose. 

Solfaterre.—Golden yellow, margined straw coloy. 

Schlegelii.— Yellow, orange, and purple. 

Victoria.—Pure white, with lemon eye. 

Tar Lemon-scenteD VEerBENA.—This favorite green-house 
shrub is grown for the delicous fragrance of its leaves. The 
flowers are small and unattractive, but a few sprigs of the leaves 
give a delightful fragrance to any bouquet, and they retain their 
freshness for a long time when placed in water. It may be 
planted in the open ground as soon as freezing nights are passed, 
when it will grow rapidly in rich soil, and form a handsome 
shrub. In the autumn, before the frosty nights return, it should 
be taken up with the earth adhering to the roots, set in a box or 
pot, and kept over winter in the cellar where it does not freeze. 
On the retwn of spring it should be pruned into shape, if 
needed, and again planted out. During the winter it should not 
be watered. It can be grown in a pot, and while in a growing 
state requires to be watered freely. It is propagated by cuttings 
of the growing shoots, which root freely in sand with a little 
bottom heat. ‘ 

Geraniums.—These beautiful showy bedding plants are too 


340 BEDDING PLANTS. 


well known to need particular description, and are highly appre- 
ciated as summer ornaments of the flower garden. ‘There is now 
a great variety. Some are grown almost exclusively on account 
of the many-colored variegation of the leaves, others because of 
the great brilliancy and abundance of the flowers. Some excel 
as plants for culture in pots, others are more particularly adapted 
for the open flower-bed, and yet others have a trailing habit that 
gives them great value for cultivation in hanging baskets and 
vases, They are all among the more hardy of our tender plants, 
enduring the chilly spring weather, if suitably prepared for it by 
gradual exposure, and not killed by the first autumnal frost. 
They are also patient under house treatment, and bear well the 
variations of temperature to which plants in the window are 
usually subjected. 

Geraniums have been divided into many classes by florists, 
and in the endeavor to group those most nearly alike together, it 
is necessary that the names given to the several classes be some- 
what arbitrary. Hence we term many Geraniums “ Zonals” 
that have no zonal marking, but whose leaves are a plain green ; 
and now, by the operations of the hybridist, the difference 
between the “Nosegay” section and the “Zonal” is fast dis- 
appearing. For these reasons we have grouped the several 
classes under four heads, the less to confuse the reader, and name 
them respectively Zonal and Nosegay, Variegated-leaved, Ivy- 
Jeaved, and Double. 

The Zonal and Nosegay division comprises those most gene- 
rally used for bedding out, though some from the Variegated- 
leaved and the Doubles are used for this purpose, with somewhat 
varying success. Of the Variegated-leaved varieties, those having 
a green leaf with silver markings answer best for bedding, while 
those known as “ Tricolored” and “Gold and Bronze,” have not 
seemed ‘to be able to endure our hot summer suns. We say 
seem, because experiment with these has been limited, either 
because the little trial that has been made has not been encour- 
aging, or because the taste of our cultivators has not been of that 


BEDDING PLANTS. 341 


artificial character which demands such gratification. A well- 
grown specimen makes a pretty ornament for the window or 
the green-house, giving a pleasing variety when mingled with 
the prevailing green. Yet the Variegated-leaved sorts are mostly 
slow growers, and make considerable demands upon our patience 
before they attain the size of fine specimen plants. 

The doubles do not yet take the place as bedders that they 
may eventually be hoped to fill. Thus far the plants have too 
vigorous a style of growth in proportion to the number of trusses 
of bloom, and do not make that blaze in the bed which we can 
obtain with singles. The quality which théy certainly possess 
of retaining the flowers longer, and the absence of the unsightly 
seed-pods, which so soon disfigure the singles, give promise of 
value as bedders when the rampant habit of growth shall have 
been, made to give way to greater abundance of bloom. But as 
pot plants they are beautiful additions to our floral wealth, 
blooming quite freely when once the pot has become filled with 
roots and the over-luxuriance of growth checked for want of 
fuller root room. 

The Ivy-leaved varieties have been much improved of late 
years. We now have some with beautiful silver or golden-edged 
leaves and pure white flowers borne in large trusses, and some 
with the thick-leaved habit of the class, but producing much 
larger blossoms of a deep violet-rose color, or delicate rosy pink. 
These are particularly ornamental in vases and hanging baskets, 
from their peculiar trailing habit of growth, or when treated as 
climbers and trained upon some support. They are of easy cul- 
ture and patient under varying treatment. 

All these varieties of Geranium are easily propagated from 
cuttings, which strike readily in sand without much bottom heat. 
New varieties are raised from seed, and the field is one of great 
interest. Canadian amateurs should produce as fine varieties as 
any imported, and they will, as soon as they give careful atten- 
tion to selection and cross-fertilization. 

The soil in which Geraniums are bedded should be made 


342 BEDDING PLANTS. 


friable and be well drained, but it is not necessary that it should 
be very rich. It may be too rich for the best display of. bloom, 
inducing too great a growth of wood and foliage. The plants 
may be set out when the weather has become warm, and if they 
have been well hardened off no fears need be entertained because 
of a slight frost. When set as close together as the size of the 
plants will permit, and in considerable masses, they produce the 
best effect. 

Tn autumn the plants may be taken up before the coming of 
hard frosts, and either potted singly or planted in boxes of earth. 
They can be kept over winter in a dry, frost-proof cellar, without 
being watered at all, unless they show signs of shrivelling from 
extreme dryness, and planted out in the late spring in the open 
bed. The branches will require to be cut back when they are 
planted out, so that they may retain a neat and compact head. 
If. preferred, they may be wintered in the parlor window, but 
our experience teaches us that they will thrive better if, after 
being put into pots in autumn, they are allowed a couple of 
months of rest before being brought to the light and warmth. 

ZONALE AND Nosecay GERANiIuMs.—These give us our best 
bedders now, (1872), and many of them are extremely beautiful 
grown as specimens in pots. There is no end to the names; 
every year will give us new ones, some of which will doubtless 
be improvements on those now cultivated ; yet we venture to 
give those of a few of the very best that we now have. These 
are all truly splendid sorts, that will not fail to give pleasure to 
the grower, until those that can excel them in beauty are pro- 
duced. 

Amy Hogg.—Bright purplish rose. 

Black Dwarf.—Crimson scarlet. 

Coleshill.—Bright scarlet. 

Diana.—Clear glowing scarlet. 

General Grant.—A splendid bedder ; scarlet. 

Gloire de Corbeny.—Salmon pink, margined with white. 

Janthe.—The nearest approach to blue yet grown ; large rosy- 
purple flowers. 


BEDDING: PLANTS. 343 


Jean Sisely.—Scarlet, with white eye. 

Iago.—Bright crimson. 

Lord Derby.—Intense scarlet. 

Master Christine.—Bright rosy pink. 

Orbiculata.—Glowing scarlet. 

Richard Headly.—Clear scarlet. 

Rose of Allandale.—Beautiful clear pink. 

Sir Charles Napier—Immense size ; clear scarlet. 

Surpasse Beaute de Surresnes.—Bright pink ; enormous truss. 

Sir John Moore.—Excellent bedder ; scarlet. 

Thomas Moore.—Another fine bedder ; scarlet flowers. 

Waltham Seedling.—Dark crimson. 

Wellington.—Deep crimson scarlet. 

White Princess.—Pure white flowers. 

VARIEGATED-LEAVED GERANIUMS.—This division comprises 
those known as “ Silver-edged,” “Silver Tricolor,” “Golden Tri- 
color,” and “Gold and Bronze.” They are all of slower growth 
than the foregoing, and, with the exception of the “Silver- 
edged,” are better as pot plants than as bedders. The names 
given below are some of the very best : 


Achievement.—Margined with gold and zoned with bronze 
and vermilion. 


Albion Cliffs.—Broad edge of white. 

Avalanche.—Silver edge and pure white flowers. 

Black Douglas.—Broad dark zone with narrow gold margin. 

Bijou.—Silvery white leaf margin. 

Glen Eyre Beauty.—Bronze zone shaded with scarlet and 
margined with French white. 

Imperatrice Hugenie.—Golden ground with bright cusses 
zone. 

Lady Cullum.—Bronze zone bordered with intense flame 
color. 

Lucy Grieve.—Bronze ground suffused with lake and tinted 
with crimson. 


Miss Burdett Coutts—Bronze and scarlet zone with white 
leaf margin. 


344 BEDDING PLANTS. 


Mrs. Pollock.—Bronze zone belted with crimson and yellow . 
margin. 

Mrs. John Clutton.—Broad bright carmine zone, clear white 
margin. 

Reine Victoria.—Yellow leaves, broad chestnut zone edged 

_with deep golden yellow. 

Sir Robert Napier.—Dark chocolate zone with scarlet vandyke 
blotches. 

Waltham Bride.—White leaf edge, and large trusses of white 
flowers. 

Ivy-teavep GeERaniums.—The following varieties are the 
best yet introduced, but they are capable of greater things than 
have yet been accomplished, and our readers may look for great 
improvements in the size and coloring of the flowers in the course 
of a few years. 

Bridal Wreath.—Large trusses of pure white flowers. 

Duke of Edinburgh.—Creamy-white leaf margin. 

Gem of the Season.—Large trusses of bright rose-colored 
flowers. 

Lady Edith.—Crimson flowers tinged with purple. 

LD Elegante.—Leaves varigated with white, and pure white 
flowers. 

Willst Rosea.—Rich rose-colored flowers. 

Dovsite GzRaniums.—The following are the cream of this 
division, but we look for varieties of finer habit and more abun- 
dant bloom, in the course of the next ten years. 

Andrew Henderson.—Deep scarlet lake flowers. 

Charles Glym.—Bright orange scarlet, dwarfish hahit. 

Crown Prince.—Flowers bright pink. 

Gloire de Nancy.—Rosy scarlet flowers. 

Le Veswve.—Brilliant glowing scarlet. 

Miss Evelyn.—Deep rose-pink flowers, with reddish crimson 
ground. 

Madam Lemoine.—Clear bright rose color. 

Princess Teck.—Rich carmine scarlet. 


BEDDING PLANTS. 345 


Victor Lemoine.—Bright scarlet, very large flowers. 

Wilhelm Pfitzer—Rich glowing crimsom. 

There is also a class of Geraniums which are grown on account 
of the fragrance of the leaves. These are of easy culture under 
the treatment already given for Geraniums. The flowers are not 
showy, but the foliage is more or less cut and is very serviceable 
in the formation of bouquets. They are known as Apple-scented, 
Nutmeg-scented, Lemon-scented, Peppermint-scented, and Rose 
scented. There is a variety of the Rose-scented with a cream- 
colored leaf margin, called Lady Plymouth. A well grown 
plant is very pretty. 

Prnarcontums.—As popularly known, these have larger 
flowers than the Geranium, and of more varied coloring. Botan- 
ically speaking, those plants already described under the name 
of Geraniums, are Pelargoniums. An effort seems to be made of 
late to obliterate the name Geranium from our bedding plants, 
and use Pelargonium instead. But the name Geranium has been 
so long used to designate the particular section to which it is 
applied, and the name Pelargonium to denote the large-flowering 
varieties, that it is quite tao late to unsettle long established 
public custom, and we have preferred to adhere to the popular 
habit. 

The Pelargonium is not adapted for bedding purposes, but is 
strictly a conservatory plant. In the green-house or the win- 
dow they are very showy when in bloom, and need no special 
care other than to keep down the green-fly or Aphis. The fiowers 
are shaped much like those of a well-grown Pansy, and are 
exceedingly beautiful. The varieties are very numerous, new 
names are being constantly added to the list, and purchasers can 
best suit their taste by consulting the florists’ catalogues. 


24 


346 ANNUALS. 


ANNUALS. 


By the term, Annuals is meant that large class of plants which 
live but one season, coming up from seed, producing flowers and 
ripening seed in the course of the summer, and then perishing. 
‘We have endeavored to make a selection of those that will best 
repay care and culture in our Canadian climate. It is useless to 
grow everything. Not even everything that is pretty is worth 
the requisite labor, when compared with results just as easily 
obiained by a judicious selection. 

The plants described under this head will flourish in any good 
well-tilled garden soil. Some of them are the better of being 
started in a frame and transplanted, like cabbage-plants, to their 
permanent place in the garden. Any special treatment that may 
be required, will be noticed under the several plants named. 
They all require cultivation and care, to be kept free“from weeds, 
and to have the ground stirred occasionally, especially while the 
plants are small. 

Tus Aster.—This flowers late in the summer and through 
the autumn. It flourishes best in a deep, rich soil. In our 
climate it is best to sow the seed in a cold frame, and get the 
plants started a little earlier than can be done in the open 
ground. It is possible to start them too carly, by which means 
they are brought into flower while the sun is too powerful, and 
the flowers in consequence are scorched by the heat. When the 
plants are well grown, they should be transplanted into beds, 
setting the tall-growing kinds about a foot apart each way, and 
the dwarf varieties about half that distance. 

Truffaut's Peonia-flowered Perfection is a very large-tlowered 
variety, having long reflexed petals, and in various colors. The 
flower stalks grow about two feet high. 

New Rose.—Grows to about the same height, the flowers are 
very double, of several colors, and the petals finely imbricated. 

New Peontajflowered Globe.—Is a very early flowering 


ANNUALS. 347 


variety, the blossoms are large, of various colors, and the plant 
of a stout branching habit. 

Dwarf Chrysanthemum-flowered.—Grows about a foot high, 
the flowers are large,-finely formed, of various colors, and very 
handsome. 

Dwarf Pyramidal Boquet.—Presents a very pleasing appear- 
ance when in full bloom, producing a great profusion of flowers. 
The colors are various, and the plant only about a foot high. — 

Tue Barsam.—Requires a rich soil and good culture. The 
seed should be sown in a cold ‘frame, and the young plants very 
carefully guarded from frost. Care must be taken not to let the 
plants be drawn up by overcrowding. This can be prevented by 
pricking them out when the second leaves have grown a little, 
and planting them in another frame, and by giving them plenty 
of air in suitable weather. "When summer weather is established 
and frosty nights gone by, the plants may be set in the border, 
about a foot apart. 

Camellia-flowered.—The German variety is very showy, pro- 
ducing very handsome double flowers, beautifully spotted with 
white. 

Rose-flowered.—These flowers are perfectly double, and may 
be had of various colors. 

Carnation.—The flowers are beautifully striped and perfectly 
double. A very pleasing variety. 

THe Caxtiopsis.—This is quite hardy, and the seed may be 
sown in the open border as soon as the weather has become 
settled. The flowers are exceedingly showy, of many shades of 
yellow, and orange, and brown, and are produced in great profu- 
sion. To produce the best effect they should be grown in a 
mass, not in single lines. 

Burridgi.The flowers have a very rich bronzy crimson 
centre with an orange yellow border. 

Drummondii.— Produces yellow flowers with a crimson 
centre. 

Cardaminifolia hybrida.—Has a compact pyramidal habit, 


348 ANNUALS. 


and is covered all the season with a great profusion of bright 
yellow flowers. 

-Tuz Drummonp Puatox.—If there be any one annual of more 
beauty than another, beautiful in the variety: and loveliness of the 
flowers, beautiful because of its long continuance in bloom, and 
beautiful in the durability and freshness of the cut flowers in 
water, this is the most beautiful of them all. The flowers are 
white, crimson, scarlet, purple, red, rose, pink, lilac, violet, and 
all of these colors with distinct eye of some other color. They 
vie with the Verbena in variety and intensity of coloring, and 
to be fully enjoyed should be grown in masses of distinct colors. 

The seed may be sown in the open ground in May, though 
it is preferable to start it in a frame and get the plants on a little 
earlier. These may be set in the bed, about a foot apart each 
way, as soon as the weather becomes settled. They flourish in 
any good, rich, friable ‘soil, though giving a preference to the 
lighter rather than the heavier. The plants begin to bloom while 
quite small, and continue to grow and bloom all summer and 
autumn ; the abundance of bloom is improved by free cutting of 
the flowers, so as to lessen the amount of seed ; if the plants are 
allowed to ripen a full crop of seed, it checks their growth, and 
injures the beauty of the bed. 

If the seed of the several colors be kept and sown separate, a 
fine effect may be produced by planting the bed in ribbons of 
various colors. Being never out of bloom from June to November, 
and if the precaution in regard to the ripening of seed be observed, 
never sparsely supplied with flowers, it makes an excellent plant 
for such a purpose. But planted in any way, whether in sepa- 
rate masses of color, or in ribbons of distinct and various colors, 
or with all colors indiscriminately mingled, it is one of the lovliest 
flowers of the garden. 

Tue Maricotp.—Although useless in hand bouquets, on 
account of their strong disagreeable odor, the flowers of the French 
Marigold are exceedingly pretty. They have avery rich velvety 
appearance, are of a reddish-brown color, variously striped and 


ANNUALS. 349 


variegated with yellow, and beautifully double. The seed may 
be sown in a cold frame, and if the plants are set out in rich soil, 
after frosts are over, they will grow to considerable size, and con- 
tinue in bloom from July until sharp frosts destroy them. 

Tue Micnonztre.—This unpretending flower, with scarce 
coloring enough to distinguish the blossoms from the leaves, is 
known and loved by everybody for its sweetness. It will grow 
in any garden, and the seed may be sown at any time when the 
soil can be tilled, and anywhere. Yet it will repay a little care 
a thousand fold, and if spikes are cut so frequently that but little 
seed can ripen, it will continue to send forth fresh spikes of bloom 
throughout the season. If the bed be left undisturbed, self-sown 
plants will come up every summer, and the Mignonette bed be 
perpetuated for many years. Plants may be potted in the fall, 
and will grow and flower freely in the green-house or window. 

Portunaca.—A valuable plant, of low growth and creeping 
habit, blooming profusely, with showy flowers of all shades of 
crimson, orange, yellow, pink, and white, sometimes spotted and 
striped in curious fashion. It is just the thing for covering a 
bed of bulbs, or for carpeting the ground under taller plants that 
do not make much shade. It loves hot weather, and grows lux- 
uriantly in heat and drouth. If the seed be sown in the open 
ground it will-not come up until the hot suns of June have 
imparted considerable warmth to the soil, but the plants may be 
considerably forwarded by sowing ina frame and transplanting in 
June. 

There are very pretty double varieties of various colors. 
When in full bloom, the ground looks as if carpeted with minia- 
ture roses. The seed of these is scarce, costing five times as 
much as the single, and not more than half the plants raised 
from a package of double seed will come perfectly double. 

All the varieties are of easy culture, preferring a sandy soil, 
and to be exposed to the hottest suns, yet capable of growing in 
any warm, friable loam. When once planted and the bed left 
undisturbed, the self-sown seed will remain in the soil without 


350 ANNUALS. 


injury through the winter, and the plants appear in it on the 
return of hot weather. 

Tue Rocker Larxspur.—There are two varieties, the tall 
and the dwarf. The dwarf-growing variety, known by seedsmen 
as Delphinium Ajacis Hyacinthiflorum, produces the most showy 
flowers and most compact spikes. The flowers are of various 
shades of blue, pink, and white, and all these colors most 
strangely blended. 

The seed should be sown in good friable soil in the fall, just 
before winter, where the plants are to remain. If they come up 
too thick they may be thinned out to about six inches apart. If 
the seed be not sown in the fall, it should be put in as early in 
the spring as possible, and sown where the plants are to remain. 
We have never succeeded in producing as fine a bloom when the 
plants were transplanted. If it must be done, they should be 
pricked out when quite small. A fine bed of these is a most 
beautiful sight, rivalling a bed of Hyacinths in everything except 
fragrance. 

There is a new, dwarf, branching Larkspur, styled the 
Candelabra-flowered. It is very favorably noticed in the Horti- 
cultural magazines, but we have not yet flowered it. 

Tax Scapious on Movryie Brrpe.—This probably received’ 
its name from the very dark color of some of the flowers, just 
relieved by a lacing of white. The seed may be sown in the open 
border very early in spring. The plants will do well in any 
good garden soil. The Double Dwarf is the most desirable 
variety. The flowers are of many colors, produced in great pro- 
fusion, and continuing until after severe frosts. 

Tue Satpieiossis.—This beautifui plant seems to be but 
little known, so seldom is it seen in our flower gardens. Yet 
those who have once had a bed well filled with its rich and 
varied colors, will not willingly be without it afterward. The 
flowers are of the richest velvet-like texture, beautifully pencilled, 
and of scarlet, blue, purple, and yellow shades. The plants 
thrive best in a sandy loam. The seed may be sown in the open 


CLIMBING ANNUALS. 351 


ground in spring, or the plants may be forwarded by sowing in a 
frame. They may be set out about six inches apart each way, in 
a bed devoted entirely to them. Planted in this way in a mass 
they make a splendid display, flowering abundantly from August 
to October. 

THE TEn-wEEexs’ Stock.—These sweet-scented favurites are. 
always welcome, and may now be had of every imaginable color. 
The seed may be sown ‘in a frame in April, care being taken not - 
to allow the plants to be drawn up by overcrowding or by being” 
kept too close. If the young plants become drawn, the spikes of 
bloom will be very materially diminished in beauty. To prevent 
this, plenty of air must be given them while in the frame, and 
room given to each that it may grow stocky. The bed in which 
they are planted out should be well enriched, and thoroughly 
pulverized to a good depth, and the plants set about a foot apart 
each way. 

If seed be sown about the first of July, and the plants well 
grown with a stocky habit, they may be potted in the fall in 
rich loam, and will blossom finely in the house during the win- 
ter. Oftentimes they will continue to bloom, if set out in the 
open ground in the spring. The flowers are not all double, but 
in’ a lot of seedlings raised from good German seed, more than 
half will produce double flowers. 


CLIMBING ANNUALS 


In every garden there is a suitable place for a few climbers, 
some screen to be covered with flowers, or fence or wall to be 
hid. We name a few of the Annuals most useful for such 
purposes. 

Tus ConvoLvuLus on Mornine Girory.—There is no occasion 
to describe this well known flower. Its rapid growth renders it 
a desirable and favorite climber. It will flourish in any good 
garden soil, and should be furnished with supports upon which 
to climb, as soon as it begins to run. The seed may be sown in 


352 CLIMBING ANNUALS. 


the open border as soon as the weather becomes settled in spring. 
There are flowers of several shades of color, white striped with 
blue or violet, rose color, and lilac, and shades of bright and 
dark red. 

Taz DonichHos on Hyacinta Bzan.—A very vigorous 
climber, attaining a height of twenty feet in a season. The 
flowers are purple, produced in spikes, and succeeded by shining 
purple pods. ‘There is a white-flowered variety, but it is not as 
showy as the purple. It will not bear frosts, and the beans 
should not be planted before the ground gets warm. 

Tur Gourps.—These are all tender Annuals, and require 
much the same treatment and soil as the Cucumber. Many of 
them aye very ornamental. Some are yellow and green, striped 
with cream color; or half green and half yellow, striped with 
cream ; or orange and red, or lemon-yellow, or orange-colored, 
&c., &c. 

Tue Sweet Pea.—If the seed be sown as soon as the ground 
can be worked in spring, this favorite climber will begin to bloom 
about the first of July. The seed should be sown about four 
inches deep in good soil,'and the plants treated in tho same 
manner as the common garden Pea. In order to keep up a 
profusion of bloom the pods should be gathered often, allowing 
only enough to ripen to supply seed for another year. The 
flowers are very fragrant, and of several colors, scarlet, scarlet 
striped with white, purple striped with white, rose and white, 
white and pink edged with blue, &c. 

Tue TroproLum.—There are several varieties of the Tropeo- 
lum. They are all showy and profuse bloomers, producing flowers 
of several brilliant colors, as scarlet, dark orange, dark crimson, 
yellow, and some striped and spotted. Tropeolum Majus, and 
its varieties, grow well in rich sandy soil; the seed may be 
sown in the open ground when the weather becomes settled, or 
plants may be forwarded by sowing in a frame, and afterwards 
transplanted. Tropeolum Peregrinum is the well-known Canary 
Flower, producing an abundance of little canary-colored blossoms 


EVERLASTING FLOWERS, 353 


If the seed be planted in May, in light soil, the plants will grow 
rapidly, and bloom from July to October. Tropeolum Lobbianum, 
and its varieties, are not well adapted for out-door culture in our 
climate, but may be grown as green-house climbers. 


EVERLASTING FLOWERS. 


These are a special treasure to those who do not wish to 
undertake the care of a green-house, or who have no suitable 
exposure for window plants. They do not appear to any advan- 
tage in the garden when it is gay with summer flowers, but when 
wintry winds toss the seared leaves about the garden, or whirl 
the snows in blinding eddies above the flower beds, then the 
Everlastings play an important part in the Christmas decorations, 
and mingled with the ornamental grasses, make charming bou- 
quets of rare beauty. Retaining both form and color, they may 
be used for the same purposes as fresh plucked flowers, but 
requiring no water to keep them fresh. They should be gathered 
just before they are fully expanded, tied loosely in small bunches— 
large bunches are apt to mildew—and hung up in the shade to 
dry. We have thought they retained their brightness of color 
better if laid away carefully in a drawer as soon as they are 
sufficiently dried, or hung in a dark closet. 

Acrocuinium.—This is one of the best. There are pure 
white and bright rose-colored varieties. The seed may be sown 
in the open ground after the weather has become settled, and 
the plants thinned to about six or eight inches apart: The 
flowers should be cut just before they are fully expanded. 

GompHrena.—This is the Globe Amaranth or English Clover 
of many gardens. The seed grows best if started in a hot-bed, 
or in a box of fine earth in the kitchen. "When the weather has 
become warm the plants may be set out about a foot apart in 
the open ground. The flowers of these should be allowed to 
remain on the plant until near the end of the summer, when they 

will have become fully developed. There are pure white, flesh- 


354 ORNAMENTAL GRASSES. 


colored, dark purplish crimson, striped red and white, and 
orange-colored. varieties. 

Huticurysum.—LThe flowers are large and handsome, and 
should be cut just before they are fully expanded, and dried for 
winter use. The buds also are useful if preserved in the same 
way. The seed may be sown in the open border or in a cold 
frame, and the plants set out in June, about a foot apart. The 
Helichrysum Monstrosum produces larger flowers, and in its 
several varieties of double rose-colored, double red, double 
yellow, and double white, is the most desirable species. 

He.iprerum.—tThe species known as Helipterum Sanfordii, 
is exceedingly beautiful. The flowers are of a rich yellow color, 
produced in dense globular clusters, and make a very showy 
addition to our winter bouquets. It grows in any good garden 
soil, and the seed may be sown in the open border when the 
weather has become settled and warm. The flowers should be 
cut when at their best, and dried in the shade. 

RopantHs.—Another genus of Everlastings, producing most 
delicately beautiful flowers, which may be dried in the usual 
manner, and used in winter. The seed should be started in the 
house or a frame, and the plants set out after all danger of frost 
is over. It will grow best in a deep, rich soil. 

XuRANTHEMUM.—In order to have a few blue flowers to add 
to the winter's collection, it will be necessary to grow the Xer- 
anthemum Coruleum. The seed may be sown in a frame, or 
when. the weather has become warm in the open border, and the 
plants set out eight or ten inches apart. They transplant easily, 
and grow in any light rich soil. 


ORNAMENTAL GRASSES. 


A few of these are very desirable to mingle with the Ever- 
Jastings for winter decoration. Unfortunately, they will not 
retain their color, but nevertheless they are very beautiful The 
following are among the most desirable. 


WINDOW-GARDENING. 355 


Acrostis Nresu.osa.—This is the most elegant variety, the 
panicles having a very graceful feathery appearance. 

Briza Maxima.—A hardy shaking grass, very pretty. The 
seed may be sown as soo:: as the spring opens. 

Eruntuvs Ravennaz.—A very pretty perennial grass, said 
to be hardy and well worth a trial. The spikes are silvery-white, 
plume-tlike, and graceful. 

Pennisetum LoneisTitum anp Fascicutatum.—Both of these 
are pretty and graceful, and help to give a pleasing variety to 
the collection. 

Stipa Pennata.—Is truly magnificent. It does not flower 
until the second season, ‘hence it must be carried through the 
winter before one can enjoy its beauty. We have not had good 
success in carrying it through the winter, and believe that our 
open winters are too severe for it. Probably it would thrive if 
it were well covered with snow through the winter. 


WINDOW-GARDENING. 


It is very pleasant to keep a few plants in the window, 
especially during the dreary months of winter, that one may have 
something bright and beautiful to look at, some pleasant reminder 
of sunny days and smiling blossoms. The following hints are 
written in the hope that they will help our friends in the 
pleasant task of caring for their window plants, and guide them 
to the selection of those that are best suited to such culture, and 
therefore more likely to afford them the pleasant. gratification of 
healthy growth and abundance of bloom. 

Plants will be most likely to thrive best in the south or east 
window. Our days are short, plants need light, and as we can 
give them at best only a few hours of light, it is important that 
there should be as much of brightness and warmth in it as can 
be furnished. If neither a south nor an east window can be 
had, then a west window is better than a north. 

The room in which they are kept should be one which is not 


356 WINDOW-GARDENING 


subjected to great variations of temperature. If possible, the 
variation should be gradual, the atmosphere of the room becoming 
cooler as the daylight fades, and remaining cooler through the 
night, becoming warmer on the return of daylight, and warmest 
when the sun is shining in through the window. The night 
temperature should not be colder than 40° of Fahrenheit, and the 
thermometer should not be kept above 70° by day, except while 
the sun is shining into the room. It is better that the room 
should be one not usually occupied by the family in the evening, 
for at night we draw the curtains, stir up the fire, light the lamps 
or the gas, and usually increase the temperature several degrees 
above the average temperature of the day. But plants require 
that when the daylight fades the temperature should decline. 
Night is their time for rest, but they cannot rest if the tempera- 
ture be kept as high or higher than it was during the day. The 
effect of such unnatural excitement upon plants is similar to that 
produced upon a human being by depriving him of his wonted 
sleep. 

It is better that the room should be one that is not heated by 
afurnace. The air from furnaces is apt to be too dry and too 
hot, If it must be heated by a furnace, set a pail of water in 
the register, and at night shut off the heat so that the tempera- 
ture may fall gradually to about 45° before morning. 

Gas-lighted rooms are bad for plants. Enough gas escapes in 
the evening, unconsumed, though the flame may seem to be per- 
fect, to kill delicate plants, and to injure materially the most 
robust. If they can not be kept out of such an atmosphere by 
closing a glazed door or sash, so as to shut them out from the air 
of the room, it would be better not to attempt their cultivation 
at all. In most houses the kitchen is the room in which plants 
will grow best. There they have a moist atmosphere, sufficient 
warmth by day, and cool temperature at night. Arrangements 
should be made for conveniently giving fresh air to the plants 
every day. The most convenient way is to have the upper sash 
moveable, and to let it down at the top when we wish to give 


WINDOW-GARDENING, 357 


fresh air, taking care that the plants are not allowed to stand in 
a draught of cold air. The quantity admitted at once should be 
proportioned to the weather outside ; when it is very cold or 
frosty, admitting very little or none at all, but giving more when 
the weather is moderate, and when the day is very mild and 
bland, throwing the sash fully open. A plant confined in the 
house without fresh air, will as surely become sick and feeble 
as the child that is never suffered to run out-doors. 

The leaves of plants need washing occasionally, in order tc 
remove the dust that gathers on them and fills up the pores. In 
the open air this is done for them by the showers and rains, but 
in the house they get no showers from the skies, and we must in 
some way supply their office. Geraniums and other plants 
having like soft and hairy leaves, are best washed by taking 
them to the sink, laying the pot on the side, and syringing the 
foliage thoroughly through a fine rose. If you have not a garden 
syringe, the water may be poured upon them froma small water- 
ing pot witha fine sprinkler. Glossy-leaved plants, such as the 
Daphne, require to have the leaves cleaned off, one by one, with 
a moist sponge. The plants will thrive best if they get such a 
leaf-cleaning as often as once in each week. In all cases use 
soft water, rain water, or melted snow, and let it be lukewarm, 
not cold. 

Watering house plints is very apt to be overdone. We 
deluge them in our kindness. As a rule, plants require more 
water when they are in bloom or growing rapidly that at any 
other time. Of course, aquatic plants, like the Calla, will thrive 
with abundant watering, while those that have their home in 
arid soils, like the Cactus, require almost none at all. Study, 
then, the natural habits of the plant you are growing, and 
examine the condition of the soil in the pot, and adapt your 
waterings to the requirements of the plant. It is not certain 
that it requires any water at all, merely because it is twenty-four 
hours since you last watered it. Therefore use your judgment 
as to whether water be needed, and act accordingly. 


358 WINDOW-GARDENING. 


Tf you pot the plants yourself, be careful to secure perfect 
drainage. If purchased in pots from a gardener who understands 
his business, this matter will have been attended to by him. In 
potting yourself, use only clean pots ; if your pots are not clean, 
let them first be thoroughly washed. Use only those that are 
porous, and avoid glazed and painted pots. If the unglazed pots 
are unsightly in your eyes, they may be set inside of a glazed or 
painted pot, leaving space for air between the inner and outer 
pot, or a pot screer -nay be set outside the pot. These screens 
may be had of our florists, of any desired color. In potting, first 
place a bit of broken pot over the hole in the bottom, then fill 
in an inch or so of potsherds, and cover these with a little moss ; 
upon this fill in the soil and set the plant. The best soil is 
made of well-rotted turf, mixed with about one-third of old 
manure, and enough sharp sand to make it perfectly friable. 
Through such a soil the water percolates readily. If the pots 
stand in saucers, pour off the water that runs into them, and not 
allow it to be soaked up again into the pot. 

It is a very common error in window gardening to attempt 
too much at once. Too many plants are crowded into the little 
space at command, so that it is impossible to give to each the air 
and light it ought to have. Besides this, plants of too diverse a 
character are sought to be grown in the same window. It is by 
no means uncommon to see inexperienced lovers of flowers 
attempting to grow, in the same window with plants from the 
temperate zone, those plants which require very high temperature, 
and possibly also Alpine plants, which require a very low tem- 
perature. It is simply impossible to make plants of such diverse 
habits thrive under such treatment, and there is no satisfaction 
in attempting what must end in failure. It is productive of 
much more pleasure to grow one plant well, to see it covered 
with healthy foliage and well-developed flowers, than to grow a 
windowful of sickly things. 

The following list comprises the names of some of the most 
suitable plants for window culture. From among these a selec- 


WINDOW-GARDENING. 359 


. 


tion may be made of those that seem to be desirable. Do not 
undertake to grow them all, but choose those you like best, and 
give them plenty of room and the needed care. 

Tue Darune makes a. charming window plant, and if any 
will thrive in a west window, this will. It is an evergreen 
shrub, producing bunches of sweetly fragrant white or pinkish 
flowers on the ends of the branches. The pot in which it is 
grown should be filled one-third full of broken crocks, so as to 
secure perfect drainage. The leaves should be kept perfectly 
clean. While the plant is growing it should be freely watered, 
and the temperature maintained at about seventy degrees by day, 
to about forty-five degrees by night. 

Tue HeLiotrop# is a very great favorite, on account of the 
profusion of bloom and the delicious fragrance of its flowers. It 
should be encouraged to grow large, by giving it plenty of pot 
toom and plenty of window room. It may be pruned and 
trained into any desired form, 

Montuty Rosss, especially the tea-scented, are beautiful 
window plants. They need rich soil, thorough drainage, frequent 
washing of the foliage with a fine rosed syringe, as even a tem- 
perature as possible, carefully guarding from draughts of cold air, 
and smoking with tobacco if the green fly makes its appearance. 
They should have the morning sun, but be shaded from the 
afternoon sun when it has become powerful. 

A list of some of the best in this class will be found under 
the head of Monthly Roses, in that part of the book which treats 
of Roses. 

Hyacintus make beautiful window plants grown either in 
pots filled with soil, or in moss, or in water. They should be 
kept in a dark cellar, free from frost, until well rooted, and then 
placed in the window to bloom. As soon as the flowers begin 
to expand, the plants will require abundant watering. If kept 
in a low temperature, say sixty-five degrees, the flowers will last 
much longer. 

THE CycLameEN is especially suited for window culture. The 


360 WINDOW-GARDENING. 


bulbs should be planted in pots in November, in a rich loam, 
intermingled with a little pulverized charcoal, with the crown of 
the bulb just peeping through the surface of the soil. They 
should be kept in a cool atmosphere and close to the glass, until 
the leaves are well grown and the flower buds begin to appear ; 
then they should be removed to a somewhat warmer atmosphere 
and a sunny window. The variety known as C. Persicum has 
white flowers tipped with rosy purple, and will bloom from 
January to March. When the bloom is over, water should be 
gradually withheld, and when the foliage dies off they may 
be stored away in the cellar, in some place where the mice will 
not get them, until next November. 

Tue Ivy may be grown in any part of the room. The pots 
may be placed on the floor, and the plants so trained as to fes- 
toon a window or arch a door-way, or to wreath a picture-frame 
or mirror. They require to be watered often, yet the water must 
not be allowed to stand about the roots. There are varieties with 
golden and silver variegated leaves; others with lobed, or palmate, 
or heart-shaped leaves. All are pretty, grow rapidly, and endure 
the heat of our sitting-rooms, with their dust and extremes of 
temperature, and want of light, in a most astonishing manner. 

Verbenas.—lIf cuttings are taken off and struck in the last 
days of July, potting them first in “thumbs,” and shifting into 
larger as soon as the roots have reached the sides, so as to keep 
the plants in vigorous growth, they may be made to bloom finely 
in the window all winter. After the cuttings are rooted, and 
during the summer and fall, until the flowers are wanted, every 
flower head should be nipped off as soon as it makes its appear- 
ance, and the leading shoots should be pinched in so as to give 
the plants a bushy form. They may be kept in the open air 
until severe frosts make it necessary to, také them in. There is 
danger from over watering, and the Aphis, or Green-fly, is apt to 
‘ become troublesome. A little attention in watering, and an 
occasional smoking with tobacco, will overcome these difficulties. 
The Verbena requires plenty of light and air. 


ROSES, 361 


ZoNaL AND SCENTED-LEAVED GERANIUMS make good window 
plants, provided they can have plenty of light, plenty of air, and 
a moderate temperature. They do not bear crowding nor excess 
of water. They should be kept as near the glass as may be, 
and the plants frequently turned so as to expose all sides alike 
to the light. Some of the very finest varieties of recent intro- 
duction are mentioned in their proper place, under the head of 
Bedding Plants, and from these the cultivator may make selec- 
tions of such colots of flower and foliage as may be preferred. 


ROSES. 


Fortunately it is not our province to tell of the beauty of the 
Rose. That has been tcld by more gifted votaries, both in song 
and story. Ours is the humble duty to tell how best to care for 
this Queen of Flowers, how her admiring attendants may win 
her brightest smiles, and see her come forth “ with royal beauty 
bright.” 

Everybody admires the Rose, everybody grows the Rose, but 
it is not everyone that grows Roses. Perfect success in the cul- 
tivation of the Rose, is the outcome of a devotion that ever burns 
but never consumes. Down in the depths of the heart it glows 
ever. Winter’s snows never chill it, clouds and storms never 
damp its ardor. With loving tenderness the true subject waits 
constantly upon his Queen, never remitting his attention even in 
the “sere and yellow leaf,” but tending her as lovingly as when 
budding into beauty, or glowing in all the splendor of queenly 
majesty. Only they who are filled with such a spirit will grow 
Roses. 

The Canadian cultivator has his own peculiar soil and climate. 
These have their influence upon the work of Rose-growing, but 
though they present some difficulties, they are by no means 
insuperable. A careful attention to the requirements of the Rose, 
and a judicious selection of those varieties best adapted to the 
peculiar conditions of our position, will enahle us to achieve most 

25 


362 ROSES, 


gratifying results. It is hoped that the following hints, the 
results of some years of experience, will prove of value to those 
Canadian culturists who “have beautiful roses in their hearts.” 

In choosing a site for the Rose ground, it is very desirable 
that a place should be selected that is sheltered from the sweep 
of high winds. Yet in making such a selection, proximity to 
growing trees should be avoided, lest the tree-roots running into 
the Rose-ground rob the Roses of their proper nutriment. If 
possible, let groups of evergreens stand between the royal resi- 
dence and the caves of Boreas, not necessarily in unbroken hedge, 
but rather in such form that the force of storms shall be broken, 
and the winds, tempered by sifting through the evergreen boughs, 
shall move among the Rose trees in gentle breezes. 

The Rose grounds require to be open to the sun during the 
early part of the day, but’ such is the fierceness of his noon-day 
heat, in our climate, that the flowers, when exposed to its full 
. power, very soon lose their freshness and become scorched and 
discolored. If the grounds can be selected where the shadows 
of buildings or tall trees will fall on them soon after mid-day, 
the flowers will continue much longer in their freshness and 
beauty. There is, however, a difficulty in doing this in our lati- 
tude, owing to the nearly vertical position of the noon-day sun. 
If the Rose trees be planted near enough to large evergreens or 
other trees, to be shaded by them at noon from a June or July 
sun, they will be so. near as to be injuriously affected by their 
roots. Yet the remoter vicinity of such trees on the south-west 
and west will modify the heat somewhat, while a good thick 
mulch upon the surface of the ground will keep the roots moist 
and ‘cool, and in this way preserve the flowers considerably by 
keeping up an abundant flow of sap. But the sun should never 
be wholly excluded. Better that the Roses have the sunshine 
all the day long than be kept in constant shadow. As the day 
declines, the trees that form the barrier to the sweep of westerly 
winds, will cast their lengthening shadows over the Rose 
beds, and give them some hours of repose before the night comes 


ROSES. 363 


on. If possible, let the morning sun greet them with his earliest 
beams, and the shadows fall upon them as soon as can be atter 
the meridian is passed. 

The soil most congenial to the Rose is a well drained, clayey 
loam, and if abounding in lime, so much the better. It needs to 
be well enriched, indeed it can hardly be made too rich, In 
such a soil all the strong-growing Roses will luxuriate. The 
weaker-growing varieties will prefer a proportionably lighter soil, 
but a dry, gravelly soil, or a thin, sandy one, is a poor soil in 
which to grow fine Roses. Such soils require to be considerably 
improved by a very liberal mixture of sods from an old pasture, 
composted with an equal quantity of manure. Clayey soils, 
having a yet more tenacious sub-soil, will require to be well 
under-drained, by putting down a few tile three to four feet below 
the surface, if there be sufficient fall at the outlet. A small bed 
may be very cheaply under-drained, when one does not wish to 
under-drain the whole garden, by sinking a pit near the lower 
side of the Rose bed, and filling it with stone, into which the 
drain from the bed may be maded to empty. It will, of course, 
be necessary to dig the pit large enough and deep enough to take 
all the water that will run into it. 

If the soil be very heavy and tenacious, it may be rendered 
more friable, and therefore better suited to the culture of anything, 
by burning a portion of it slowly and then returning it to the 
bed and thoroughly mixing it with the unburnt soil. By gathering 
a pile of small sticks, and intermingling with these some knotty 
bits or tough roots and stumps, and setting them on fire, and 
then covering the heap with the clay, so that the burning pile 
shall smoulder away slowly, the tenacious character will be taken 
from the clay, and it will be made an excellent fertilizer. The 
fire should not be allowed to burn fiercely, but clay added as 
often as it breaks out, and the whole kept in a state of slow com- 
bustion, after the manner of a charcoal pit. With this burnt 
clay may be added coarse barn-yard manure, until the soil becomes 
loamy and. friable. Where snows do not keep out the frosts, 


364 ROSES. 


these will do much towards rendering the ground mellow, if it 
be thrown up loose and rough in the autumn and exposed to 
their action. 

Very light soils may be improved by the addition of clay. 
This is sometimes to be found within a spade’s depth of the sur- 
face, and only needs to be turned up and mingled with the lighter 
earth to bring it to the desired texture. When it does not exist 
in the sub-soil, it may be brought from some convenient place 
and incorporated with the bed. If it can be had in the form of 
sods, and these composted with manure until the whole be 
thorougly rotted, it will be the very best material. 

These are the extremes which will require to be ameliorated, 
but, in by far the greater number of our gardens there is only 
need of selecting a favorable spot, where the rough winds can not 
come with rude bluster, but where the breezes play gently with 
the flowers, and the sun shines brightly all the morning. There, 
with a little extra care in stirring the soil to a good depth, not 
mingling the bottom with the top unless required to improve the 
texture, and by adding a good supply of manures, a favorable 
bed may be formed in which to plant the Rose, and grow and 
bloom it in perfection. 

The best manure for the Rose is that which, fortunately, is 
most accessible to all. It is that of the farm-yard, where the 
droppings from the stable are thrown out, mingled with the litter 
of the bedding, and the horned cattle trample it under foot, and 
the pigs work it over with their tireless rooting. If the soil be 
strong clay, with a somewhat too tenacious tendency, it may be 
well applied when about half-rotted,‘as the undecomposed straw 
helps to loosen the soil, and make it more porous and friable. If 
the soil be of a lighter tendency, the manure should be more 
thoroughly decomposed. In those parts of the Dominion where 
the winters are open and the ground often bare, it will be of 
great benefit to apply a liberal dressing to the surface in the fall, 
allowing it to remain as a mulch until spring, when it may be 

, forked into the soil. This mulch will protect the roots from 


ROSES, 365 


severe freezing, and the tops being able to draw upon the roots 
for moisture, to supply that which is evaporated from their sur- 
faces by the frosty winds, suffer much less from extremes of cold 
than when the roots are held in frozen earth. Again, when the 
flower-buds are making themselves prominent, we are so often 
liable to suffer from insufficient rainfall and hot sunshine, that 
a good mulch of manure is exceedingly valuable in keeping the 
roots cool and moist, and supplying them with food at a time 
when it is much needed to perfect the nascent Roses. If sucha 
mulch would be unsightly, it may be concealed by a covering of 
fresh mown grass. Ifthe ground be not mulched, it should be 
kept loose and friable upon the surface, by frequent stirring with 
the pronged hoe. 

Planting may be done either in thé fall or spring, as may be 
most convenient. If it be done in the fall, the roots should be 
protected from frosts. If the snow cannot be depended on 
for this protection, the surface of the ground may be deeply 
mulched with a covering of strawy manure, sufficiently thick to 
exclude the frost. In addition to this a few evergreen branches 
may be laid over them, or the butts thrust into the ground around 
them, so as to shelter the stems and branches from the sun and 
drying winds, to the great benefit of the Rose trees. If done 
in the spring, the ground should be mulched in the same thanner, 
to prevent the soil from becoming too dry in summer. 

If the Rose trees are on their own roots, that is, not budded 
nor grafted, they shouid be planted so as to stand at the same 
depth in the ground as they did previously, when the newly 
disturbed soil has become settled to its place. But if the Roses 
are budded or grafted, they should be planted so that the place 
of union with the stock will be two or three inches below the 
surface. Itis necessary in our climate to cover the point of union 
between the scion and stock deep enough in the soil te protect 
it from the hot, drying suns of summer, and severe frosts of 


winter. 
In budding Roses the buds should be inserted, as close to the 


366 ROSES, 


ground as possible, so that, in order to cover the place of union, 
it may not be necessary to thrust the roots into the cold subsoi) 
when they are transplanted. When the stock is so long, that 
in order to cover the place of union, it would be necessary to 
place the lower roots deep in the sub-soil, we prefer, if the root 
will at all admit of it, to cut off a portion of the lower part of 
the root, rather than to plant it so deep as to be below the reach 
of the requisite degree of warmth. The stock, when thus planted 
in the ground, will throw out roots throughout its entire length, 
and even the bud or graft will itself sometimes emit roots from 
the portion below the surface. 

It sometimes happens, that by a combination of untoward 
circumstances, the Rose tree is killed back by the winter quite 
to the ground. If the point of union be above the ground, the 
Rose tree is wholly lost, for though sprouts may come up from 
the stock, the Roses it will give are not the Roses the cultivator 
wants ; but if the place of union be a few inches below the sur- 
face, there is a probability that a sprout will be thrown up from 
the scion, and so the desired variety be preserved. 

It is important that all sprouts which may come up from the 
stock should be promptly removed. If they are allowed to grow 
they will soon rob the scion of its proper nourishment, and in a 
short time choke it to death. The stock most commonly used 
for budding upon is the Manetti Rose, and the shoots may be 
readily distinguished from those of the scion by their peculiar 
reddish color, and the glossy green of the leaf. These sprouts 
should not be cut off at the surface of the ground, but carefully 
broken off from the stock. This may be done by loosening the 
soil a little, and crowding a forked or notched stick down upon 
the shoot until it is torn off from the stock. If cut off so that 
any part of the base of the shoot remains upon the stock, it wil] 
surely send up more sprouts from the same place. 

The use of the Manetti is necessary in the case of new 
varieties, else, if recourse could not be had to budding, it would 
be a long time before we could hope to have the pleasure of 


ROSES. 367 


seeing them in our own grounds. Besides this facility of propa- 
gation and dissemination, which is obtained by budding on the 
Manetti, there are some varieties which emit roots so feebly that 
they are grown with difficulty on their own roots, but when 
worked-on Manetti stocks they grow luxuriantly, and bloom in 
profusion. Many varieties, also, will produce much finer flowers 
when grown on Manetti stocks than on their own roots. Yet, 
these advantages are at the cost of some care, lest shoots and 
suckers from the stock should be permitted to grow and choke 
out the Rose. 

The further cultivation will consist chiefly in keeping the 
ground loose and friable, free from all grass and weeds, and pro- 
tecting the roots from the severe frosts of winter and droughts of 
summer by a suitable mulch. If the summer mulch be three or 
four inches of well-decomposed stable manure, and the coarser 
mulch of winter be worked into the soil in spring, the Rose 
ground will be kept, as it must be to secure fine blooms, well 
enriched. Yet once in three or four years it will be found to 
be of great advantage to give the Rose grounds some fresh soil 
formed of well-rotted sods, which have been gathered and com- 
posted in the manner already mentioned. This may be spread 
on the surface, to the depth of three or four inches, in the spring, 
and forked in with the winter’s mulch. If it be likely to raise 
the bed too high, a few shovelsful of the old soil may be removed 
as occasion may require. 

Pruning the Rose should never be done in our climate in 
the fal. Somehow the wounds of the pruning-knife seem to 
open a door for the frost to enter; be that as it may, expe- 
rience has taught us that Rose trees pruned in the fall are very 
sure to suffer from the winter, even while those that are unpruned 
escape. The best time to prune is early in the spring, after 
severe freezing weather is past, and before the sap is in active 
circulation. Pruning should be suited to the variety of Rose 
under the knife. Roses of very vigorous habit of growth should 
be moderately pruned, for if they are severely cut back they will 


368 ROSES. 


rush into great wood growth and give but little bloom. On the 
contrary, those of feeble growth require to be cut back severely, 
in order that the root may be able to supply the remaining buds 
with sufficient sap to make them push vigorously, and cause thé 
roses it does bear to be fully developed in size and form. 

A little attention to the several varieties, and the peculiar 
habits of each, will soon teach the observing cultivator the pruning 
requisite in each case. There should be sufficient shortening in 
to proportion the quantity of bloom to the strength of the plant, 
so that the plant may not be weakened by excess of bloom, and 
so that the Roses may be all well developed. Beyond this, and 
a little thinning out occasionally of over-crowding branches, the 
Rose will not need much pruning to keep it in shape. 

The form of Rose tree best suited to our climate is that of a 
low bush. Both the heat of summer and the cold of winter bear 
very injuriously upon tall standards. At best they are short-lived 
with us. By careful pruning they may be grown as pyramids, 
clothed with branches from the ground, like a well-formed Nor- 

‘way Spruce. The pruning necessary to form a pyramid is best 
done by pinching in the leader during the growing season, so as 
to develop the lower buds, cut back the following spring to four 
or five buds, train one as a leader, and the others horizontally ; 
pinch the leader again, and the following season cut back as 
before, repeating this operation until the desired form and size 
are attained. But after all, the bush form is easier obtained, and 
is quite as satisfactory, besides being measurably exempt from the 
accidents which so often mar any attempts at more formal training. 
If the Rose trees are planted in a bed, the strongest and tallest 
growers may be planted in the centre, and those of shorter habit 
arranged in front and around them, in something like regular 
gradation, with the more dwarfish growths in the front rank. 
This will give the appearance of a bank of Roses. 

There are a few insect enemies of the Rose that may require 
attention. In our own experience the Rose-slug has been the 
most annoying. It feeds upon the softer parts of the leaves, 


ROSES. 369 


eating out all the green portion and leaving them skeletonized, 
thus giving the Rose trees a most unsightly appearance. This 
insect usually appears just as the flowers are beginning to open, 
and when there is a great number of them, the whole bush is 
soon over-run, and all the leaves destroyed. We have found 
the use of white hellebore, applied in the same manner as recom- 
mended for the Gooseberry Saw-fly, sure destruction to them. 
The hellebore was stirred into the water in the morning, allowed 
to stand until about sundown, and then applied with a sprinkler 
from a common watering-pot. This is a very convenient and 
cheap means of getting rid of these disgusting slugs. 

In some seasons the Aphis or Green-fly become very numerous, 
completely covering the ends of the young shoots, and sucking 
out the sap. They increase very rapidly, and should not be 
neglected. The little Leaf-hopper also will appear in thousands 
sometimes, and feeding on the underside of the leaves, cause very 
serious injury by their operations. The Leaf-hopper that affects 
the Grape Vine is figured and described at page 112 of the 
Report of the Fruit Growers’ Association of Ontario for 1870, 
and so similar are its habits to those of the Rose Leaf-hopper, 
that what is there said concerning that insect will apply equally 
well to this. 

The best means with which to combat both the Aphis and the 
Leaf-hopper is, frequent syringing with strong tobacco water. This. 
is sure destruction to the Aphis, and tolerably efficient upon the 
Leaf-hopper. We have been nearly exempt from the Leaf-hopper 
since we have used the white hellebore in water for the slugs, 
but, whether their decrease is owing to the hellebore or to one of 
those periodical diminutions in their number, arising from the 
operation of unknown causes, to which they are subject, we are 
as yet unable to say. . 

The Rose-bug is a small beetle which feeds upon the leaves. 
They are very destructive, and when suffered to live, soon become 
very numerous, and exceedingly troublesome. They will feed 
not only upon the Rose, but upon the Grape Vine, the Cherry 


370 ROSES. 


tree, the Plum and the Apple. They laugh at whale-oil soap 
and decoctions of tobacco ; they get fat upon all the applications 
hitherto made for their destruction. Whether they can eat 
white hellebore with impunity we can not say, not having 
made trial of their powers of digesting it. The only known 
remedy is that of picking them off and crushing them. Fortu- 
nately they are of a sluggish habit, and are easily caught. 

And now we come to the Roses themselves. We shall not 
weary our readers with long disquisitions on classification. Those 
who are curious on these points, may read some of the books in 
which this matter is fully discussed, but since hybridists have 
taken the Rose in hand, the old lines of distinction have been 
nearly obliterated. It is quite enough for our purpose, and that 
of our readers, to group them under a few natural divisions. We 
have therefore adopted the following, as, on the whole, the most 
convenient division, and group them under, Climbing, Summer, 
Autumnal, and Monthly Roses. 

Curmpine Roszs.—In our climate, we must content ourselves 
with the hardy Prairie Roses, or those which have a large infu- 
sion of prairie blood. We can not grow Gloire de Dijon in the 
open air, nor climbing Devoniensis, nor, alas, that glory of Yellow 
Roses, Marechal Niel, when trained above the snow line. But 
the coarser Prairie Roses will endure the climate in a large part 
of the Dominion. They are strong, rapid growers, having luxu- 
riant foliage and greatabundance of bloom. The flowersare borne in 
large clusters, and open in succession, so that the plant is in bloom 
for a considerable time. The season of blooming is a little later 
than that of the great mass of our Roses, so that they come into 
full bloom just as the other varieties are passing away. 

Queen of the Prairie.—This is probably the best of the family, 
being hardy and luxuriant. The color of the flowers is a bright 
rosy-red, the form, globular and somewhat cupped, of good size, 
and produced in great profusion. They are without scent, and 


their beauty is not ii the individual flowers, but in the mass of 
bloom. 


ROSES. 371 


Baltimore Belle.—Not quite as hardy as the preceding, the 
extremities of the young shoots suffering in extremely severe 
winters, but the Roses, which it yields in great profusion, are 
most delicately beautiful. In color they are white, suffused with 
a soft tint of blush ; quite double, and borne in very full clusters. 

Gem of the Prairies.—This is a new variety of much promise, 
and though it has not yet been widely disseminated, and conse- 
quently not yet submitted to a very thorough test in our climate, 
it seems, so far as it has been tried, to be as hardy as the Queen 
of the Prairie. It is claimed to be the product of cross fertiliza- 
tion, between that hardy climber and Madam Laffay, which is 
also a hardy Rose. The color of the flower is a light crimson, 
with occasionally a white blotch ; it is of large size, perfectly 
double, and fragrant. 

These three are the most desirable varieties for cultivation in 
our climate. Those of the Ayrshire family will do very well to 
run over a bank, where they will get some protection from the 
snow, and by their proximity to the ground be somewhat sheltered. 
The best of these is the Queen of the Belgians, which is a pure 
white, and will flourish even in a poor soil. 

Summer Roses.—Under this head is grouped all the Roses, 
of whatever origin, which make no pretensions to being also 
autumnal bloomers. It contains some very beautiful roses, well 
worthy of being retained in every garden. The very best only 
are mentioned in the descriptions which follow, no one of which 
should be left out of any general collection. 

Aureti.—This is a very dark medium-sized rose ; when newly 
opened it is of a blackish purple, with rich velvety petals. It is 
globular in form, and perfectly double. 

Boule de Nanteuil.—A large crimson-purple flower, the centre 
sometimes fiery purple. It isa very handsome, showy Rose. 

Cabbage, or Commun Provence.—Probably this is the oldest 
Rose in cultivation, the Rose we have all played with in child- 
hood, the thought of which is fraught with many memories. 
And it is one of our prettiest Roses still, double as a hundred 


372 ROSES. 


petals can make it, fair and fresh with the tint of blushes, lovely 
in itself and lovely in its sweet and tender associations. 

Coupe de Hebe.—It is impossible to convey in words any 
just conception of the beautiful coloring of this Rose. In form 
it is most handsomely cupped, and the bright glossy pink color- 
ing of the petals seems to be heightened by a reflection from one 
petal to the other, as we look down into the depths of the 
flower. : 

Charles Lawson.—A large, showy flower, very full, the color 
a clear vivid rose. It blooms very abundantly, and makes a 
gorgeous display. 

Duchess of Buccleugh.—An exceedingly beautiful Rose, of 
large size and full form. Its color isa dark rose, with a blush 
margin. 

Kean.—This magnificent, rich, velvety-purple flower. with 
scarlet centre, is one of the very best of the dark-colored Roses, 
and makes a most delightful contrast with the lighter colors. 

Madam Plantier and Madam Hardy.—It is not an easy task 
to make up one’s mind to do without either of these. They are 
both white, and both beautiful. Madam Plantier blooms in 
clusters, end in great profusion; Madam’ Hardy has fewer 
flowers, but they are larger. Of the two Madam Plantier is the 
more hardy plant, though neither can be called tender. 

Paul Ricaut.—Is of a beautiful, bright, rosy crimson color, 
of large size, full, and deservedly ranks among our very best. 

Persian Yellow.—The best of the Austrian Roses. The 
flowers are very double, of a deep golden yellow, not large, but 
full. It is among the earliest in bloom. 

Vivid.—This Rose is a very vigorous grower, and makes a 
grand display when covered with its rich, vivid crimson flowers, 

There is another Summer Rose, which looks more like a 
striped Carnation than a Rose, that has seemed, in the writer’s 
experience with it, to lack vigor of constitution, but which is 
worthy of attention, on account of its being so beautifully 
striped. It is Gillet Parfait. There is a very distinct and very 


ROSES. 373 


constant variegation of crimson and white stripes in the flower, 
which makes it exceedingly attractive. 

Moss Rosrs.—Naturalists say that the Moss Rose is a sport 
from the common Provence Rose. Perhaps it is; but the fol- 
lowing account by a German writer may help us to know how 
that sport was produced : 


“The Angel of the flowers one day 
Beneath a Rose-tree sleeping lay ; 
That Spirit to whose charge is given 
To bathe young buds in dews from heaven ; 
Awaking from his light repose, 
The Angel whispered to the Rose ; 
*O fondest object of my care, 
Still fairest found where all are fair 
For the sweet shade thou’st. given to me, 
Ask what thou wilt, ’tis granted thee. 
‘Then,’ said the Rose, with deepeend glow, 
‘On me another grace bestow.’ 
The Spirit paused in silent thought ; 
What grace was’ there that flower had not? 
’Twas but a moment ;—o’er the Rose 
A veil of moss the Angel throws ; 
And, robed in nature’s simplest weed, 
Could there a flower that Rose exceed?” 


The Moss Roses require the richest soil and mosv liberal 
culture possible, in order to have them in perfection. 

Common Moss.—The oldest and the best of them all. The 
flowers are large, full, clear rose, and the half-opened buds 
beautifully covered with moss. 

Crested.—The Calyx of this Rose is mosi singularly edged 
with a mossy fringe, which gives the buds a very pleasing 
appearance. Beyond this it has no mossy covering. The 
flowers resemble in form and color the common Provence.- 

Glory of the Mosses.—The flower-buds are very mossy. The 
Roses are of a deep blush, very large and full. 

Laneii.—The flowers are of a brilliant, rosy-crimson color, 
and very handsomely formed. The plant is a vigorous, healthy 
grower, with fine, clear foliage. 


374 ROSES, 


Luxembourg.—A large, purplish-crimson flower ; the plant of 
a very luxuriant habit of growth, yet blooming freely. 

Nuits de Young.—A very dark, velvety-purple flower, quite 
different from any other of the Moss Roses, and a very desirable 
variety. 

AvutumnaL Roses.—These are also known as Eemontants or 
Hybrid Perpetuals. Their distinctive character should be, that 
they give an autumnal bloom in addition to the midsummer 
flowering, but many that are placed in this class yicld very few 
autumn flowers. It isa difficult matter to give a selection of 
the very best out of such an endless number. Yet the following 
names are given, having reference to variety of coloring, as com- 
prising the most valuable of those in general cultivation. In 
making this selection, reference is also had to the constitutional 
vigor and hardihood, and preference given rather to those that 
make a fine garden display, than those that are best suited for 
exhibition. We have not yet attained to that general enthusiasm 
in the cultivation of the Rose thal. demands a Provincial Rose 
Show, where each flower is most critically examined. Yet, some 
of these names have won distinguished laurels in more than one 
well contested trial ; and those who have opportunity to exhibit, 
can make selection from among these of those that, if well grown, 
it will be hard to beat. 

In order to obtain an abundant autumnal bloom, it will be 
necessary to cut off a part of the summer bloom as soon as the 
flower-buds form. By taking off half of the summer flewers, and 
cutting back the branches to three or four buds, as soon as the 
flowers fade, the plant will start into a new growth, and the 
autumn bloom be much increased. 

But in our climate this second growth, thus induced, does not 
always ripen well enough to endure our winters, and in conse- 
quence, the plant is often severely killed back by the cold. 
Hence, the forcing out of a full autumnal display may be dange.ous 
to the life of the plant. 

But above all must it be borne in mind, that in onl to 


ROSES, 375 


grow these Roses in perfection, they must have the very highest 
and most liberal culture. True, most of them will show some- 
thing of beauty under a tolerable measure of care, but our flower 
Queen puts on her royal robes only in response to loving care, 
and if we would grow Roses that will challenge the attention of 
every passer-by, and compel him to pause and admire, we must 
cultivate them thoroughly. 

Achille Gonod.—Bright reddish-carmine, very large and full. 
Gives a very fine mid-summer bloom. 

Baron Haussman.—Bright dark-red ; fine form, large and full, 
one of the very best. 

Boule de Neige.—Pure white ; fine form, good habit, hardy 
and free bloomer in the autumn. 

Comtesse de Chabrilliant.—Beautifully cupped ; large, full, 
very sweet, pink color ; blooms finely in midsummer. 

Charles Lefebvre.—Bright crimson ; large, very double ; one 
of the best for exhibition. 

Charles Verdier.—Rose bordered with white, very full and 
large, fine form and good habit. 

Dr. Lindley.—Crimson, with black centre, very large and 
full, exceedingly showy. 

Duchesse de Caylus.—Brilliant carmine, large, full, perfect in 
form, makes a fine display in the garden. 

Duke of Edinburgh.—Brilliant scarlet crimson, shaded with 
maroon, large and full ; a most gorgeous flower. 

Fisher Holmes.—Reddish scarlet, shaded with deep velvety 
crimson, large and very brilliant. 

Felix Genero.—Beautiful violet Rose, large, of good form 
and very showy in the garden. 

Gloire de Ducher.—Purple, illuminated with crimson and 
scarlet, extra large, blooming well in autumn ; one of the best. 

John Hopper.—Rosy crimson, large and full, color deeper in 
the centre, very attractive. 

Lord Macaulay.—Rich clouded crimson, large and full, petals 
of great substance. 


376 ROSES. 


Le Rhone.—Dark vermilion, rich and brilliant, large, full, 
and of good form; one of the best. 

Marechal Vaillant.—Vivid red, with a shade of purple, 
large, full, and showy. 

Maurice Bernardine.—Clear vermilion, petals handsomely 
imbricated, flowers large and showy. 

Madam Fillion —¥Fine salmon rose color, large, finely 
formed, one of the best. 

Madam Rival.—Beautiful clear satin Rose, large, handsomely 
cupped, blooming well in the autumn. 

Monsieur de Pontbriant.—Dark crimson, shaded with car- 
mine, very large and full, plant vigorous. 

Madame Alfred de Rougemout.—Pure white, delicately 
shaded with rose, medium size. A charming flower, blooms well 
in the fall. : 

Madame la Baronne de Rothschild.—Clear pale rose, shaded 
with white, very large, a fine exhibition flower, one of the best 
of its color. 

Madame Marie Cirodde.—Beautiful rosy pink, large, full, 
handsomely imbricated, one of the best. 

Mademoiselle Annie Wood.—Fine, clear red, large flower, 
and abundant autumn bloomer. 

Prince Camille de Rohan.—Dark crimson maroon, very rich, 
velvety petals, blooms best at midsummer. 

Pierre Notting.—Very dark red, shaded with violet, very 
large, full, blooming well in the fall; one of the best. 

Pitord.—Fiery red, velvety, large and full; a fine autumnal 
bloomer. 

Prince de Porcia.—Bright vermilion, large, fine form, showy 
and beautiful; one of the best. 

Prince Humbert.—A very dark violet red, velvety appear- 
ance, large, and of fine form anc good habit. 

Senateur Vaisse.—One of the most superb, color brilliant red, 
large and showy. 

Souvenir de Dr. Jamin.— Fine bluish violet, large, of fine 
form, and free fall flowering. 


ROSES. 377 


Souvenir de Ponsard.—Metallic rose, flamed with scarlet, 
large and full; one of the best. 

Souvenir de William Wood.—Dark maroon, shaded with 
scarlet, large and very showy ; a good autumnal bloomer. 

Thorin.—Deep dark rose, large, full, and of fine form; very 
showy in the garden. 

William Grigith—Rosy lilac, large size, vigorous habit, a 
good autumn bloomer. 

Xavier Olibo.—Velvety black, shaded with amaranth, large 
and full, blooms freely in the fall ; one of the best. 

We have limited the number to three dozen, and in doing 
so have been obliged to leave out many good Roses, because, for 
one reason and another, those named were to be preferred. 
Géant des battailles is subject to mildew, General Jacqueminot 
loose and open, La Reine does not always expand well; and yet 
those who have room for them will grow them with pleasure. 

Some attempts have been made to obtain Moss Roses yielding 
an autumnal bloom, but thus far without any marked success. 
The best of the AutumnaL Mossus are Madame Edouard Ory, 
bright rosy carmine ; and Salet, bright rose, large and full. 

Mowruty Roszs.—These Roses are all too tender to endure 
exposure to our winters, but they can be grown in the garden in 
summer, taken up on the approach of winter, the roots buried 
in a box of earth, and then placed in a cool cellar until the 
return of spring. Or, they may be grown in pots in the green- 
house or in the window. They bloom almost continuously, and 
it is owing to the infusion of the blood of some of these with the 
hardy Roses, that we now have the autumnal blooming section. 
Under this title we group those known as Bourbons, Teas, 
Noisettes, &c., merely denoting them in the list by the initial 
letter of the family to which they are supposed to belong. 

Alba Rosea, T.—White with rose-colored centre, flower large 
and full, and very sweet scented. 

Archimede, T.—A large full Rose, of a light blush color, 
with a salmon shade, very fragrant 

26 


378 ROSES. 


Bougere, T.—A fine Rose for pot culture, very large and full, 
color deep rosy bronze. 

Devoniensis, T.—Pale yellow, centre a deeper shade, of very 
large size, full; a good pot rose. 

Emotion, B.—A very pretty, exceedingly free flowering Rose, 
white, delicately tinted with rose, form perfect. 

Gloire de Dijon, T.—Yellow, shaded with salmon, very large 
and full, vigorous habit. 

Marechal Niel, T.—The most beautiful deep yellow Rose, 
large and full, globular in form, very sweet scented. It has a 
rambling habit, and should not be very closely pruned ; makes 
a fine green-house climber. 

Lamarque, N.—A beautiful pale yellow flower, very large 
and full, grows well in a pot, or as a green-house climber. 


Madame Villermoz, T.—An excellent Rose for pot culture, of pv 


free growth, white, with salmon centre, large and full. 

Modele de Perfection, B.—A very pretty flower, of a lively 
pink color, blooms freely, and thrives well in a pot. 

Madame Margottin, T.—A large dark citron yellow Rose, 
with a deeper shade in the centre, large and globular, and a free 
bloomer. 

Niphetos, T.—A very large full Rose, of a very pale lemon 
color, sometimes white, grows well in pots. 

President, T.—This has given great satisfaction in pot cul- 
ture, blooming almost constantly. The flowers are large, rose 
color, shaded with salmon, and of fine form. 

Rev. H. Dombrain, B.—A large carmine Rose, handsomely 
cupped, and blooming very freely. 

Souvenir d’ Elise Vardon, T.—Excellent for pot culture, 
very large, creamy white, with a yellowish centre. 

Souvenir de Malmaison, B.—A very large, full and beautiful 
Rose, of a clear flesh color, with a shade of fawn, does well ina 
pot. 

Souvenir @ un Ami, T.—A favorite flower, much like Presi- 
dent in color, but with a deeper salmon tint; large and full, 
excellent for pot culture. 


CLIMATIC VARIATIONS. 379 


Triomphe de Guillot Fils, T.—One of the be&t, sweet scented, 
very large and full, color white, delicately shaded with rose and 
salmon. 

The foregoing are, perhaps, the best we have ; newer sorts, 
as Adrienne Christophle, Belle Lyonnaise, Madame Levet, &c., 
have not yet been sufficiently tested here to speak confidently of 
their merits. 


CLIMATIC VARIATIONS. 


There is a great variety of climate within the boundaries of 
our Dominion, which necessarily affects the cultivation of Fruits, 
and places certain limitations upon the variety of ornamental 
plants that may be used in the adornment of grounds, and of 
vegetables wherewith to supply the table. In addition to what 
has already been said upon the hardihood of the several varieties, 
it may be profitable to take a general survey of the variations in 
climate which obtain in the several Provinces, and of their effect 
upon horticulture. 

In the Province of Ontario, there is a strip of land lying 
between Lakes Erie and Ontario, and along the northern shore 
of Lake Erie and the southern shore of Lake Huron, where the 
Peach can be successfully grown in the open air. This is owing 
to the influence which those large bodies of water exert upon the 
temperature. It follows that all other plants as hardy as the 
Peach can be grown within these limits, hence we find here the 
Heart and Bigarreau Cherries, and a large variety of Pears and 
Grapes, and nearly every valuable variety of Apple. There is also 
astrip bordering upon the north shore of Lake Ontario, and along 
the St. Lawrence, and upon the Georgian Bay, where the like 
ameliorating influence is exhibited, but not in a degree sufficient 
to admit of the successful open air culture of the Peach. Yet its 
influence is seen in the number of varieties of Apple and Pear 
that can be grown in perfection near the water, as compared with 
the number that will succeed a few miles inland, though in the 


380 CLIMATIC VARIATIONS. 


same degree of latitude. As soon as we pass beyond the influence 
of the water, a marked change of climate is noticeable. In the 
northern interior parts of Ontario only the hardy Morello Cherries 
can be grown, the Hearts and Bigarreaus disappearing altogether ; 
many of the choice varieties of the Pear fail, and some of the 
Apples prove too tender. Yet again, in some of the small fruits 
and the smaller growing ornamental shrubs, the protection 
afforded by continuous deep winter snows more than counter- 
balances the change of atmospheric temperature. Hence it is 
that in northern Ontario and in the Province of Quebec, all 
varieties of Raspberry and Blackbery are hardy, and many other 
plants and shrubs that perish or suffer severely where the winters 
are open, are there so completely shielded by the snow, that they 
pass the winter safely, and are cultivated without difficulty. 

In the Province of Quebec, only the hardier varieties of Apple 
can be grown, a limited number of Pears, and only the Morello 
Cherries, while the Peach wholly fails, and the Plum must be 
substituted in its stead. In the vicinity of Montreal, such Apples 
as the Early Joe, Fameuse, St. Lawrence, Pomme Grise, Alexan- 
der, Duchess of Oldenburg, Red Astracan, Borassa, and Ribston 
Pippin thrive well; and with them such Pears as St. Ghislain, 
Flemish Beauty, Oswego Beurre, White Doyenne, Osband’s 
Summer, Napoleon, Tyson, Belle Lucrative, Doyenne d’ Kié, 
Lawrence, Beurre d’Amalis, Beurre Hardy, Duchesse d’Orleans, 
Beurre d’Anjou, Louise Bonne de Jersey, Dana’s Hovey, and 
Winter Nelis. 

In that climate, the Pear tree may be easily made so tender 
by manuring, as to be seriously injured, and oftentimes killed 
outright by the cold of winter, while, if they are allowed to grow 
more slowly, without the application of stimulating manures, 
they produce a better ripened wood, more capable of enduring 
the severity of winter. 

So common is the error of stimulating the trees into a too 
luxuriant growth, that an intelligent observer writes to us that 
ninety per cent. of all the Pear trees which are planted and grow 


CLIMATIC VARIATIONS. 381 


are killed by manuring. If planted in well-drained ground, 
which has been enriched only by the rain, snow, decayed foliage, 
and air, and as they arrive at bearing age top-dressed with 
lime, wood ashes, and bone-dust, increasing the quantity as the 
trees come more fully into bearing, they would make:a short, 
stocky growth, ripen their wood, live, and bear fruit. These 
suggestions are applicable not only to the Pear tree, but to every 
other fruit tree. Beyond doubt, with such treatment, many 
varieties now considered too tender, would be found valuable 
additions to the list of those that succeed well. 

In Nova Scotia, the rules that apply in Ontario seem to be in 
some measure reversed, for there the best fruit is not grown near 
the sea, but where the range of hills, known as the North 
Mountain, shuts out the cold winds and sea fogs of the Bay of 
Fundy, and in other interior portions that are sheltered from the 
sea. There none of the varieties of Apple are discarded as being 
too tender. Some do not bring their fruit to its full perfection of 
coloring and flavor, and hence are not suited to that climate, 
though the tree is vigorous, healthy, and productive. Among 
the leading sorts that are cultivated there, we find the Alexan- 
der, Baldwin, Esopus Spitzenberg, Grayenstein, Golden Russet, 
Hubbardston Nonsuch, King of Tompkins County, Pomme 
Grise, Ribston Pippin, Rhode Island Greening, Snow Apple, 
and Talman Sweet. 

Among Pears, we find the Bartlet, Beurre Bosc, Seckel, Swan’s 
Orange, Flemish Beauty, Vicar of Winkfield, Winter Nelis, 
Duchesse d’Angouleme, Louise Bonne de Jersey and Bloodgood. 
Plums of all kinds do well, even such late ripening sorts as Coe’s 
Golden Drop, and Reine Claude de Bavay, coming to maturity. 
Many varieties of the Heart and Bigarreau Cherries also thrive 
there, such as Black Heart, Black Tartarian, Yellow Spanish, and 
Downer’s Late. 

The Quince thrives in deep, moist soils; and even Peaches 
and Nectarines, when trained against a wall. But on comparing 
the meteorological tables for Wolfville, N.S., with those for 


382 CLIMATIC VARIATIONS. 


Toronto, Ont., it is found that the difference of temperature in 
the two places is not very great. The observations from Wolf- 
ville, extending over a period of ten years, give the average mean 
temperature of the year to be 44°46, while that of Toronto, 
extending over a period of thirty years, is 44°.10. The warmest 
month, both at Toronto and Wolfville, is Jaly, and the average 
mean temperature of that month, for ten years, at Wolfville, is 
66°.50; for thirty years, at Toronto, is 67°33. The coldest 
month at Wolfville is January ; at Toronto, is February ; the 
average mean temperature of January at Wolfville, for ton years, 
‘being 23°.05, and of February, at Toronto, for thirty years, being 
23°.02. It might then be expected, that so far as the range of 
temperature affects the cultivation of fruit, vegetables, and flowers, 
these parts of Nova Scotia would produce the same varieties as 
those that are grown in the vicinity of Toronto. 

In New Brunswick, it seems to be quite impossible to grow 
fruit trees of any kind on the east and south side of the Pro- 
vince, with the exception of the Siberian Crabs, and the Plum, 
owing to the prevalence of dense sea fogs. As far inland as the 
fog reaches, the Plum tree is free from the Black-knof, while 
beyond the influence of the fog the trees are very badly affected. 
In the interior of the Province there are some good apple orchards, 
and some varieties of Grape thrive well, that part being beyond 
the influence of the fogs. But little, however, seems yet to have 
been done in that Province, in the cultivation of fruits, and very 
little reliable information can be had in regard to the varieties 
that do succeed, on account of the confusion that seems to exist 
with regard to the names of those that are in cultivation. 

It is a noticeable fact, that in those parts of the maritime Pro- 
vinces where the sea-fogs prevail, so that scarcely any fruit trees 
can be grown, there the English Gooseberry thrives in perfection, 
being exempt from the mildew that attacks it so persistently in 
nearly all the other parts of the Dominion. 

Thus it is, that even in the most unfavorable localities there 
seem to be some compensating benefits. In the milder climates, 


HARDY EVERGREENS. 383 


where the sweeter Cherries and the Peach tree flourish, the win- 
ters are so open, that oftentimes the Strawberry and Raspberry 
crops suffer severely, and many herbaceous plants are unable to 
endure the winter without protection. But where the winters 
are too cold to admit of the cultivation of these trees, there the 
winter snows completely protect the canes of the most tender 
Raspberries, and without any care from the cultivator, the small 
fruits and herbaceous plants and dwarfer shrubs pass the winter 
in safety. By taking advantage of all these varying peculiarities, 
each may grow those fruits which are most readily produced in 
his own locality, supplying his table during the summer and 
autumn, at least with the smaller fruits, from his own garden, 
while he obtains his winter stores from those regions where the 
long-keeping fruits are more easily grown. 


. 


HARDY EVERGREENS. 


‘The following list of hardy Evergreens may be useful, as a 
guide to those who desire to plant these trees, either for omament 
or shelter. The brief description given of each will convey some 
idea of the peculiar character of the tree, and of its adaptation to 
particular purposes. The Canadian has need, if any one, to plant 
these, not only for the sake of ornamenting the grounds about his 
buildings, but for the shelter from the chilly blasts of winter, 
which they afford. From this list, he will be able to make a 
selection which he can plant with confidence that they will thrive 
in our climate. They should be transplanted in the spring. 

American Arson Vita.—Thuja Occidentalis—This is a 
very common native tree, abounding in moist situations, through- 
out the Dominion. It is frequently called White Cedar, and in 
this way is confounded with a very different tree, the Cupressus 
thyoides, which is the true White Cedar. Ht is exceedingly 
hardy, of very rapid growth, attaining a height of from twenty- 
five to fifty feet, and as it bears clipping well, is one of our most 
useful trees for making evergreen screens.and hedges. 


384 HARDY EVERGREENS. 


There are some very fine dwarf-growing varieties which make 
very pretty low hedges or bordering for walks, and are an excel- 
lent substitute for the Dwarf Box. Those known as Booth’s and 
Parson’s Dwarf Arbor Vite, are among the best of this class. 

American Yew.—Tazxus Baccata, var. Canadensis.—This also 
is a native, and the only Yew that we know to be sufficiently 
hardy to endure perfectly the severity of our climate. It forms 
a low spreading shrub, of about three feet in height, naturally 
somewhat straggling, but very patient under the knife, and can 
be pruned into any desired form. The foliage is of a deep and 
somewhat sombre green. The seed is surrounded by a pulpy, 
cup-shaped disc, of a pretty coral-red color. It is sometimes 
called Ground Hemlock. 

AuvstRIAN Pine.— Pinus Austriaca.—This is one of the most 
popular Pines for ornamental planting. Introduced from the 
mountains of Austria, it seems to be quite at home in our Cana- 
dian climate. It has a rough, shaggy appearance, is of rapid 
growth, and valuable as a strong, hardy tree, that will produce a 
speedy effect on the lawn, or be serviceable in breaking the force 
of sweeping winds. 

Batsam Fir.—Abies Balsamea.—Another hardy native tree, 
of a very regular conical outline, attaining a height of some 
thirty feet or more. It is a beautiful tree when young, but as it 
acquires age, the lower branches begin to decay, marring sadly 
the beauty of its earlier years. 

Common JUNIPER.—Juniperus Communis.—Is common to 
North America, Europe, and Asia. It seldom rises above eight 
dr ten feet in height, and makes a valuable variety for small 
grounds. It is not suitable for hedges, for which it is sometimes 
used, the branches frequently dying out, and destroying the 
appearance of the hedge. It bears pruning well, and may be 
trimmed into a very neat and compact form. 

Eastern Spruce,—Abies Orientalis.—One of the most com- 
pact growing evergreen trees, attaining a height of about seventy- 
five feet, of a most beautiful and regularly conical form, branching 


HARDY EVERGREENS. 385 


to the ground. It is as hardy as the Norway Spruce, and makes 
a very handsome ornamental tree. 

Hemiock Sprucz.—A bies Canadensis.—A tree of the North, 
enduring the cold and the storm, yet of most graceful form and 
foliage, rivalling, nay, surpassing in beauty and elegance most of 
the evergreens introduced from foreign lands. It is in moist, 
loamy, and deep soils that it thrives best, there its gracefulness 
and beauty of form and foliage are fully developed, but in very 
dry or very wet soils it does not thrive well. When grown in 
clumps, or crowded with other trees, the lower limbs die out, but 
standing singly, the branches continue, clothing the tree to the 
very ground. 

Lambert's Pine.—Pinus Lambertiana.—This noble tree 
bears considerable resemblance to our White Pine while it is 
young, but it attains to a much larger size, rising in its native 
habitat, on the California coast, to a height of over two hundred 
feet. It is perfectly hardy in our climate, and makes a valuable 
addition to the group of Pines. 

Norway Spruce.—Abies Excelsa.—Probably the best known 
and most generally planted of all the evergreens. None surpass 
it in general utility, for it is hardy, adapts itself to a great 
variety of soils, grows rapidly, makes a handsome specimen tree 
when standing singly, and splendid screens or wind-breaks when 
planted in groups or in more formal hedge-rows. 

Norpmann’s Fir.—Abies Nordmanniana.—A native of the 
Crimean mountains, that deserves a place with us on account of 
its beauty and hardihood. The specimens we have seen have 
been perfect models in form and outline, the foliage retaining its 
freshness in all temperatures, and the growth sturdy and vigorous. 

Rep Czpar.—Juniperus Virginiana.—Planted in groups, 
not too closely, this tree may be used as a screen to break the 
force of our wintry winds, but it is not suitable for hedges, on 
account of the tendency of the branches to die out when over- 
crowded. Itis extremely variable in its habit of growth, and 
becomes a very useful tree in the hands of the landscape gardener, 


386 HARDY EVERGREENS. 


for the embellishment of rugged spots, or to take a place in 
picturesque planting. 

Scotox Pinz.—Pinus Stlvestris—This well known tree 
thrives best in cool, well drained subsoils, yet can adapt itself to 
a great variety of situations, and bear unharmed the rigors of our 
coldest winters. Somewhat akin to the Austrian Pine in appear- 
ance, it is, nevertheless, sufficiently distinct to add to the variety 
in a collection, and, planted with others for shelter, helps to 
relieve the monotony which must exist when the planter confines 
himself to but one or two varieties. 

Srperian Sinver Firn.— Abies Pichta—A very handsome 
small-sized tree, of dense, compact habit, yet graceful outline, 
and. foliage of a peculiarly dark and somewhat sombre hue. It 
is found in the mountains of Siberia, but thrives well in our 
climate, and readily adapts itself to a great variety of soils. 
Owing to its small size, it should be planted in front of its 
fellows ; in such situations it will form a most pleasing contrast 
to the foliage of other varieties. 

Sreerian Anpor Vita.—Thuja Cecidentalis, var. Sibirica,— 
This variety is exceedingly hardy, and is distinguished from the 
American Arbor Vite by its conical form, and its very dense and 
fine, dark-green foliage. Itis a most beautiful hedge plant. 

Swrepisn Junrrer.—Juniperus communis, var. Suecica.— 
A very hardy and useful Juniper, from the north of Europe. It 
has a more fastigiate habit of growth than the common Juniper, 
with lighter yellowish-green foliage, and larger berries. 

Tartanian Arsor Vira.—Biota Orientalis, var. Tartarica. 
This is quite hardy. The leaves are of a dark, glossy-green, 
and the tree has a very pleasing appearance. It makes beautiful 
evergreen.screens and hedges, and a very suitable tree for ceme- 
teries. 

Warts Pive.—Pinus Strobus.—A well known native tree, 
that in the crowded forest is tall and naked, but grown singly, 
forms a handsome head. It thrives best on dry, gravelly or sandy 
soils, and refuses to display its perfection of form and beauty of 


HARDY EVERGREENS. 387 


outline when planted on a wet soil. It is perfectly hardy through- 
out the Dominion, and contrasts finely with the darker leaved 
Evergreens. 

Waitt Spruce.—Abies Alba.—Another of our beautiful 
native evergreens, hardy everywhere, growing rapidly, with a fine 
eompact habit, and handsome, regular outline. It thrives well 
in damp grounds and moist places. It should be planted in the 
foreground, where its beautiful glaucous-green leaves may be 
brought into contrast with those of darker shades behind. 

Waite Crpar.—Cupressus thyoides.—This tree is found 
upon the borders of the great lakes, but is most plentiful in the 
middle United States. It is a different tree from the American 
Arbor Vite, which is so commonly called White Cedar with us, 
and seems to be a connecting link between the Arbor Vite and 
the Cypress. It thrives in low, swampy places, and will make 
a very pretty screen. 

Lawson’s Crpriss.—Cupressus Lawsoniana.—We can not 
vefrain from mentioning this most beautiful Evergreen Cypress, 
believing that it will be found sufficiently‘hardy to endure the 
climate of a considerable part of Ontario, and possibly of some 
‘parts of the Maritime Provinces. There is nothing we have yet 
seen that equals the gracefulness, elegance and beauty, of this 
tree. Its plume-like branches have a charming, airy lightness, 
the foliage has the most delicate tints of bluish-green, and the 
whole contour of the tree has such a fern-like character, that one 
can only gaze upon it with delight. In planting it, we advise 
that the ground be not enriched with any stimulating fertilizers, 
and that the location be free from excess of moisture. A late 
autumn growth is to be avoided as mnch as possible, as such 
growth is very apt to suffer from the frosts of winter. 


CONCLUSION. 


There may be “no.royal road to learning,” but there is a 
royal road to success in the cultivation of fruits, vegetables and 
flowers in Canada. It is a road that none but those who have 
royal blood in their veins may travel. It is for those who, though 
they boast not their descent from regal sires, are nature’s noble- 
men ; men of earnest purpose, who, with head and heart devoted 
to the culture of the garden, have learned “ to labor and to wait.” 

“Knowledge is power,” as truly in the cultivation of the 
soil as in anything else, It was quaintly replied by a successful 
cultivator, when asked what fertilizer he used to obtain such 
splendid results: “Brains, sir, brains; I manure my grounds with 
brains !” 

Use, then, your brains. Study your business. Bring all 
the activities of your mind to bear upon your gardening. Enlarge 
your powers of thought and observation by studying the opinions 
and doings of others ; follow nothing blindly, but bring all to 
the test of your own common sense. Keep your eyes open to 
the operations of nature, and let the experience of each year 
teach you how to remedy the defects of the past, and place you 
on vantage ground for the operations of the future. 

In the hope that the hints contained in these pages, drawn 
mainly from the writer’s own experience and observation, may 
contribute something to the reader’s progress, and stimulate to 
increased thoughtfulness and zeal in the cultivation of the garden, 
we bid you 

¢ Study culture, and with artful toil, 
Meliorate and tame the stubborn soil.” 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS. 


To those gentlemen who have so kindly placed at the 
author’s disposal their valuable stores of information, the results 
of many years of experience and toil, the thanks not only of the 
writer are due, but of all who take an interest in the cultivation 
of fruits, flowers, and vegetables throughout the Dominion. 

From R. W. Starr, Esq., of Port Williams, Nova Scotia, very 
full and important information has been received concerning the 
several kinds and varieties of fruit usually cultivated in that 
Province ; and from Herbert Harris, Esq., of the Halifax. Nur- 
series, equally valuable data have been obtained with regard to 
the ornamental trees, shrubs, roses, and flowering plants that 
flourish in Nova Scotia. 

To Thomas Miller, Esq., of St. Johns, we are under obliga- 
gations for much valuable information concerning the fruits ; and 
to Mr. John Fisher, Florist, of the same place, for notes of fruits, 
flowers, and vegetables grown in New Brunswick. Our thanks 
are also due to Richard Thompson, Esq., of St. Johns, for like 
favors. ! 

With ‘reference to the Province of Quebec, we have been 
greatly aided by the perusal of very full and very valuable notes, 
embracing the experience of a long series of years, kindly placed 
at our disposal by James H. Springle, Esq., of Montreal. 

To each of these gentlemen, and to all who have kindly 
contributed of their valuable stores of knowledge, we desire to 
express our most hearty thanks, though we well know they them- 
selves feel amply repaid for any trouble they have taken, by the 
hope that they may have in this way done something to lighten 
the labors of some toiling brother. 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS. 39] 


One request the writer would make of all those who may do 
him the honor to examine this first attempt to prepare a Cana- 
dian work of this kind ; it is, that they would kindly note down 
any omissions they may discover, or any fuller information they 
may have in their possession upon any of the varieties of fruits, 
flowers, or vegetables that are cultivated in their vicinity, and 
communicate the same to the author. It will be his endeavor 
to use such information for the benefit of the whole Dominion, 
through the columns of the Canada Farmer, and in such other 
manner as he may find possible. 


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