American wild-fowl shooting : describing the haunts, habits, and methods of shooting wild fowl, particularly those of the western states of America : with instuctions concerning guns, blinds, boats, and decoys; the training of water-retrievers, etc.

Cornell University Library

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American wild-fowl

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SHootinc Canvas Backs FROM A BLIND,

AMERICAN

WILD-FOWL SHOOTING.

DESORIBING THE

HAUNTS, HABITS, AND METHODS OF SHOOTING
WILD FOWL, PARTICULARLY THOSE OF THE
WESTERN STATES OF AMERICA,

WITH

Insrructions concernine Guns, Biinps, Boats, AND
Decoys; tHe Traintine or Warer-
Retrievers, ETc.

BY

JOSEPH W. LONG.

New Yorr:
J. B. FORD AND COMPANY.

1874.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by
J. B. FORD & CO.,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C.

TG MY FRIEND
FRED KIMBLE,
of Peoria, Illinois,
A CRACK DUCK-SHOT AND AN HONEST MAN,

THIS BOOK

IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED

BY

Xts Author.

CONTENTS.

PAGE,

InTRopUCTION, . . . . . . . htt

GUNS, os; al: alg le ele oe) Cab ee oe Ye, 2 SD

CHAPTER II.
BLINDS) 4 He a ae we

CHAPTER III.
DHOOYS;-. > iy Bc a we a Oa

CHAPTER IV.
Boats anD Boat-Buinpine, . . . . . . . 8

CHAPTER V.
Dogs, - - eee kB

Cawpine OvT, . . . 1. we ee CO

CHAPTER VII.
MISCELLANEOUS Hints, ee ee es ee ee ae es (|)

x CONTENTE,

CHAPTER VIII.
MorRNING MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL, . 7 .

CHAPTER IX.
MID-DAY MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL, . é . . .

CHAPTER X.
EVENING MALLARD SHOOTING—F'ALL, . * Ci i

CHAPTER XI.
CORN-FIELD MALLARD SHOOTING—WINTER,

CHAPTER XII.
MatLaRD SHooTING AT Hous IN THE IcE—WINTER, .

CHAPTER XII.
MALLARD SHOOTING IN THE TIMBER—SPRING, 3 a

CHAPTER XIV.
BLUE-WINGED T2#AL, q 3 A . eS ° .

CHAPTER XV.
GREEN-WINGED TEAL, 3 3 5 S : z zi

CHAPTER XVI.
Prntarm Duck, . ‘ = * . ‘ 5 6

CHAPTER XVII.
Woop Dvok or SummMER Duok, . " SD erm

149

164

169

173

177

182

150

195

201

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVIII.
AMERICAN WIDGEON, . F < .

CHAPTER XIX.
GapwaLL Duck, 2, * % i

CHAPTER XX.
SHOVELLER Duck,

CHAPTER XXI.
Duszy Duck, . 2 eos .

CHAPTER XXII.
TRUMPETER SWAN, . G .

CHAPTER XXIII.
CanaDa GOOSE, . é a . .

CHAPTER XXIV.
WHITE-FRONTED GoosE, . . . .«

CHAPTER XXV.
Canvas-Back Duck, . S a

CHAPTER XXVI.
Rep-HEapgep Ducks, . é 2

CHAPTER XXVII.
Soaur Duck, F . @ :

PAGE.

2i1

221

232

241

265

a71

xii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Rine-Necxrp Dvokx, . ‘i 5 3 a

CHAPTER XXIX.
Bourrir-HEADED Dvuckx, . ; é

CHAPTER XXX.
FinaL—E—Cave Corvum! . ahs Ge

279

INTRODUCTION.

In the following work 1 have endeavored to
lay before the public, in as concise a form as
possible, full and trustworthy explanations of the
various practical methods of hunting wild fowl
as followed in the inland portions of our country.
No book that I am yet aware of, published in
this country, has been devoted exclusively to the
subject; though a few short, fragmentary articles,
giving a general idea of the sport, are to be
found in the many volumes of our sporting
literature.

Wild-fowling as an art is but very little
understood by the great majority of sportsmen.
It is attended with too much fatigue and too
many hardships to be followed by them as it
should be in all weathers, in order to become
thoroughly familiar with it. And even in the
warmer months, nearly all of our richer and
better-educated sportsmen, instead of making use

14 INTRODUCTION.

of their own reasoning powers to find and
secure their game, depend on hiring others more
experienced and willing to work, and do not ques-
tion the whys and wherefores of their movements,
or those of the game. They are content simply
to shoot -when opportunities present themselves.
The man who is hired does not consider it his
particular duty to explain the various habits of
the birds, nor the proper manner of taking ad-
vantage of a knowledge of them. Amongst pro-
fessional hunters, for various reasons, thoughts of
book-making are seldom entertained; and though
there are many excellent writers, both amateur
and professional, who understand it much
better than myself, and are much better able
to do it justice, the subject—one of unusual
interest to American sportsmen—has been almost
entirely neglected. Such being the case, it is
hot without a well-grounded hope that, in the
absence of such a work as might be, my
labors may not prove altogether useless.

The ornithological descriptions, by referring to
which the novice may determine the specific
characteristics of his game, I have borrowed from
Audubon’s “Biographical Ornithology”; farther
than this 1 have abstained from copying from

INTRODUCTION. 15

other authors, and contented myself with writing
only that which 1 have learned and proved by
experience. 1 have aimed to instruct rather than
to amuse, leaving it to others more capable to
discourse upon the poetry and romance of the
sport, and retaining only the less enticing but
more profitable philosophy and reason; and, as I
am not accustomed to literary pursuits, I trust
that anything I may have written that appears
egotistical or self-assuming may be ascribed by
my generous critics, sportsmen, to a visibly poor
acquaintance with the graces of rhetoric and style.

Before treating of the various methods to be
employed in the pursuit of wild fowl, 1 shall
first proceed to separate them into two distinct
classes, which I shall term respectively the deep-
water and shoal-water varieties, taking the Canvas-
back as the type of the one, and the Mallard
of the other. The habits of the two varieties
vary so greatly that many rules which may be
employed successfully in the pursuit of the one,
it will be readily seen, might not be applicable
to the killing of the other.

The shoal-water varieties simply immerse the
head and neck, but seldom or never entirely
submerge the body when feeding, though having

16 INTRODUCTION.

the power of doing so and swimming under
water quite long distances when wounded and
pursued. Their food, then, of course, must be
different and their natural haunts separate from
those of the deep-water varieties, which, as their
name indicates, dive for their food. The bodies
of the deep-water varieties are proportionally
broader, both as compared with their length and
depth; the legs set farther back, and the wings
proportionally shorter than those of the other
class; the tail feathers shorter, more stiff, and less
inclined to “cock up,” being naturally held hori-
zontally or slightly drooping ; the plumage is gene-
rally shorter, but the feathers are more close and
densely filled with down ; and as a rule they will
be found more tenacious of life than the shoal-
water ducks. In the deep-water varieties, with the
canvas-back I shall treat of the red-head, blue-
bill or broad-bill, tufted duck, and buffle-head
or butter-ball.

In the shoal-water class are the mallard, sprig-
tail or pintail, blue and green winged teal, wood
or summer duck, gadwall or gray duck, widgeon,
shoveller, and dusky or black duck (the last-
named, though not properly a Western duck,
being sometimes found associated with the mal-

INTRODUCTION. 17

lard). To the shoal-water variety, with the ducks
belong the wild goose and the swan, whose
habits, with the manner of hunting them, I shall
also consider.

It will be noticed by those conversant with
Western wild-fowling that two or three species
of ducks, with the mergansers found on West-
ern waters, have been omitted in the above
classification. These 1 have considered it a great
waste of time and space to describe, as they are
rarely pursued for sport, and are of such rank
and fishy flavor as to be totally unfit for the
table.

Though several ornithologists have made this
same division of the duck family, as may ‘be
seen by referring to their scientific nomenclature,
they have, however, denominated their subfamilies
Fuliguline, or sea-ducks, and Anatine, fresh-
water ducks; and in view of the fact that I
am treating solely of inland wild-fowling, and
yet find both classes in nearly equal abundance,
I have deemed it more appropriate to their
habits and general characteristics to classify them
as I have at first done. I have dwelt at greatest
length upon the pursuit of the mallard and canvas-
back, as it is to the capture of these two varieties,

18 INTRODUCTION.

representative types of the two classes, that the
labors of sportsmen are chiefly directed. Many of
the methods therein described will be found appli-
cable to the taking of the other varieties; but
where the different habits of the other varieties
occasion different plans of operation, they are
elsewhere duly and explicitly explained.

The various concurrent subjects of guns, boats,
decoys, etc, have been briefly yet compre-
hengively discussed under their proper headings.

CHAPTER I.

GUNS.

1 suppose I must say a few words as to the
comparative merits of breech and muzzle loaders ;
for, to my mind, notwithstanding I am willing
to acknowledge the general superiority of the
new invention, the muzzle-loader possesses several
decided advantages which entitle it to merit,
and, in certain cases, to preference in selecting
the most suitable weapon.

The chief superiority of the breech-loader lies
in its capability of being so quickly reloaded
when in the field or boat, and this alone is a
sufficient advantage to compensate for many other-
wise serious objections; for, no matter how smart
aman may be with a muzzle-loader, he will often
lose many opportunities of shooting, through not
being ready loaded, while to the patron of the
breech-loader such occurrences are very rare, pro-
vided he has plenty of loaded cartridges handy. This

19

20 EQUIPMENT.

one requirement, however, being often wanting, the
advantage is not so conclusive. The providing or
reloading of a sufficient number of metallic shells,
or the transportation and room required for their
paper substitutes, is the most serious drawback in
their use; and here it is that the claim of the
muzzle-loader is especially noticeable. This con-
clusion was not formed hastily, but was brought
to my mind very forcibly, though rather unwill-
ingly, and most frequently whilst sitting up at
night loading shells and listening to the snoring
of my fellow-hunters, votaries of the muzzle-loader,
who, having eaten their supper, washed their guns,
and refilled their pouches and flasks, had rolled
up in their blankets to “woo tired nature’s sweet
restorer.”

On pleasant days, when shooting from my boat,
1 usually made a practice of reloading as fast as
possible between shots, carrying an ammunition-
box and loading-tools with me for that purpose;
but this, for obvious reasons, I could not well
do on very stormy days or when shooting away
from my boat, and, consequently, I had to refill
my shells at night—often when I should be sleep-
ing—or else forego my morning shooting next day.

Frequently in spring continuous shooting may be

GUNS. 21

had at “travellers,” as they are termed by the hunt-
ers—i.e., ducks making long flights, often migrat-
ing, flying high in the air, offering few shots
under fifty yards and more over sixty. This
kind of shooting requires a good gun and heavy
loading, lots of powder, and large shot if pro-
curable—so much powder, five to six drachms,
that it would be folly to make a practice of
using so large an amount in ordinary sport; con-
sequently, the shells being usually loaded with
common charges, this sport must be given up, or
the shells emptied and reloaded more heavily, a
tedious job when ducks are flying thickly. With
a muzzle-loader all one needs to do is to raise
his charges a notch or two, and he is ready to
kill his farthest. Again, on the other hand,
very close shooting may often be had when avail-
able ammunition is not very plentiful. It is then,
of course, desirable to lessen our charges as much
as possible, in order to receive the greatest benefit
from our opportunities. And here, again, the
muzzle-loader has the preference.

To be brief, a man risks fewer long, wild shots
with a muzzle-loader, and consequently wastes
less ammunition, has less extra bulk and weight

to carry, as shells, loading-tools, etc.; and in boat-

22 EQUIPMENT.

shooting, if he uses ¢wo muzzle-loaders, can, |
think, kill more game the season through than
with one breech-loader, as he will frequently have
opportunities to shoot both guns into the
same flock of ducks before they get out of
reach. 1 shall describe hereafter a method
for loading a muzzleloader in which the opera-
tion is greatly shortened, and much valuable time
saved.

Now, because of my saying a few words in
favor of the muzzle-loader, do not consider me an
old fogy, or old-fashioned either. I have not finished
yet. I intend to give the claims of the breech-
loader an equal showing, and, I think, can still find
advantages enough to overcome most of its de-
ficiencies. And first (I will be brief as possible),
they have the advantage of rapidity in loading,
whereby in wild-fowl shooting, besides the ad-
vantage of always being ready for new-comers,
cripples may be the more readily secured.. Sec-
ond, ease and quickness of exchanging loads in
a gun, as in the case of the approach of geese
or swan when awaiting ducks. Third, facility of
cleaning. Fourth, less liability to miss fire. Fifth,
safety, no getting two loads into one barrel, no

need of having head or hands over the muzzle,

GuNS. 23

or leaving gun loaded when not in use or when
riding in a wagon or. other vehicle.

Now, to sum it all up: In my opinion, for the
majority of uses, the breech-loader is the superior
weapon for the novice or the gentleman sports-
man. For the poor market duck-hunter, if he can
afford but one gun, I would advocate the muz-
zle-loader; he will find it much less trouble to
take care of, and less work to keep loaded; he
may kill a few more ducks with a breech-loader,
but they will cost him enough more to make up
the difference both in labor and ammunition. For
boat-shooting, I would advise, where it can be
afforded, the use of both guns, when either may
be used as occasion demands, and the special
advantages of each be secured.

We will suppose our reader to have made up
his mind as to which class of guns suits him
best—breech or muzzle loader. And, next as to di-
mensions, etc. For flight-shooting, an 8-bore is as
large as is advantageous, and a 10 is sufficiently
small. For a breech-loader, I should never use
larger than a 10, as the cartridges for an 8 are
too bulky and require too much room for trans-
portation, and the 10, if properly loaded, will.
kill nearly if not quite as far. For a muzzle-

24 EQUIPMENT,

loader, a slight increase in the gauge will admit
of larger charges being used for flock-shooting,
while the objections in the case of the breech-
loader do not occur. Their weights in propor-
tion to their gauges should be as follows:

For a 10-bore, 9 to 104 Ibs.; 9-bore, 104 to
12 lbs.; 8-bore, 12 to 14 Ibs. The barrels should
never be under 30 inches in length, while anything
over 35—and that only for an 8-bore—is super-
fluous, and only waste and useless metal to carry.
Damascus is, I think, the best material, on ac-
count both of its beauty and superior strength.
Laminated steel, if properly made, is about as
good, but so many cheap and almost worthless
imitations are in the market that it cannot be
relied upon. Damascus cannot be cheaply counter-
feited, and therefore is more to be depended on.
Select barrels, if possible, having nearly a true
taper from breech to muzzle. The rib should be
about 4 to § inch wide, slightly concave laterally,
but perfectly straight lengthwise, and sufficiently
elevated at breech to prevent under-shooting.
Sight-piece small and close to the muzzle.

So many different principles and methods are
employed for breech-loading actions that a full
consideration of their merits and defects will be

GUNS. 25

impossible here. To my own mind, the best and
most desirable is the under-lever double-grip,
on account of both its great simplicity and dura-
bility, though many of the first-class snap actions
work very freely and wear quite well; in fact,
for ordinary use are sufficiently durable; but for
rough, every-day work, nothing, in my opinion,
equals the double-grip. 1 have fired one over
twelve thousand shots, and though never in the
hands of a gunmaker to be repaired, it is now ap-
pareutly as tight as when new: “Greener,” the
celebrated English gun manufacturer, in his book on
“ Modern Breech-loaders,” says: “The double-grip
is considered by all practical gun-makers to be
the strongest and most durable arrangement for
sporting guns and rifles. Nothing can be more
simple or do the work better. There being a
great amount of leverage, it possesses wonderful
binding power, and when properly made and well
fitted it will last many years without becoming
loose, as it can be made selftightening to allow
for wear and tear. It is getting more into favor
every season amongst the sportsmen at home and
in India. When guns and rifles constructed on
the double-grip plan have failed, it is attributable
to the imperfect mode of making the action. We

26 EQUIPMENT.

have seen long, heavy double rifles of 8-bore, fitted
to a light breech action with bar-locks, and the
metal cut away just where it was most required,
being left barely strong enough for a light shot-
gun.”

The break-off in the breech-loader should not be
less than three-fourths inch in thickness, and the
strap long and fastened to the stock by two screws.
The locks, as quoted from Greener, should be back-
actioned, thereby leaving the action stronger, and
should have a fine oily feel, and give forth a sharp,
clear click on cocking. (For a muzzle-loader I
should prefer forward-action locks, as they are
more pleasing to the eye, and do not weaken the
gun any more than the old style, if as much, They
should be independent, as they are less liable to
get wet inside.) The mainspring should be rather
stiffer than is usual in muzzle-loaders, and the
hammers should have a good sweep, as some
breech-loading caps require a strong blow to ex.
plode them. Rebounding locks are rather a detri-
ment than an advantage. They are more liable
to get out of repair than the common lock,
cannot (from principles of construction) be made
to strike a blow sufficiently heavy to always in-
sure exploding the cap or primer; and from the

GUNS. Q7

sudden jerk upon the mainspring are liable to be
broken in very cold weather. Another very seri-
ous objection, which I have seen occur myself, is
that the cap may be driven back into the needle-
holes by the force of the explosion, the hammers
not holding the strikers up to them, and the
working of the gun thereby for a time prevented.
If the strikers are sufficiently long, however, to fill
the hole completely, this objection cannot occur.

The stock should be of English or German wal-
nut, with a strong, thick wrist, and the grain and
fibre of the wood running with the angle of bend.
A pistol-grip is thought by some to be an ad-
vantage. The stock should be varnished and _pol-
ished. - An oiled stock does not stand water well:
when wet the fibre of the wood is raised, the
wood is swelled, and on drying shrinks from the
metal work, leaving the joints open.

The trimmings should be of case-hardened iron,
with little or no engraving.

To determine the length and bend of stock re-
quired in ordering a gun, the best way is to pro-
cure a gun, if possible, which seems to “come
up” to suit you, then lay a straight-edge along
the top rib sufficiently long to extend to the butt-
plate, and measure the distance from the under-

28 EQUIPMENT.

side of the straight-edge to the stock, both
at the top of the rise from the wrist, or the
nose, as it is called, and at the butt-plate; this
will give the bend. From the right trigger to
centre of leel-plate is the length of stock required.
About three inches is found to be the ordinary
bend, and fourteen to fourteen and one-half inches
the usual length of stock required.

As to the shooting powers of the gun when
properly loaded, they are dependent mainly upon
the form of bore, in connection with the elasti-
city of the material of which the barrels are
composed. It is a very foolish idea, though one,
I am sorry to say, quite prevalent among sports-
men, to suppose, because some one gun is found
to do very strong and close shooting, that all
others made by the same maker will do equally
or nearly as well. This is a very unreasonable
presumption, especially in the judging of those
gunmakers who manufacture to order. Their cus-
tomers generally order their guns made to shoot
as their use requires. One who may not be over-
particular in aiming, or who desires a gun solely
for wood or brush shooting, and where he seldom
has to shoot far, will, perhaps, order the gun made
to shoot open. Another, who may shoot nothing

GUNS. 29

but ducks, may require his to shoot very close.
It is obvious neither alone could be taken as a
fair sample of the gunmaker’s abilities.

As to factory guns in general, they are meant
to be made to shoot passably before leaving the
shop, and, where they fail to equal the ideal of
the purchaser, the dealer usually rebores them
to shoot as desired. Thus, again, as many guns
are rebored after leaving their makers, their good
or bad shooting qualities cannot with justice be
ascribed to them. Sportsmen’s ideas, too, differ in
regard to shooting so frequently, that what one
might call an extra shooting gun, another would
consider as only ordinary. Nearly all our first-
class gunmakers understand boring fully, as an
essential part of their business; so in ordering a
gun, if the sportsman will specify how he wants
the gun to shoot, he will nearly always be suited,
if his demands are at all reasonable.

Before I go further, let me explode an-
other foolish notion entertained by many of the
thoughtless ones. Because game may be killed
with more certainty at short distances with small
shot than with too large a size, or because they
may sometimes happen to kill an extra long shot
‘when using them, they have concluded that small

30 EQUIPMENT.

shot will kill farther. Now, on asking their rea-
sons for this belief, several have told me—and,
indeed, one late author has published the same
theory—that a small shot striking a bird, say
through the lungs or stomach, makes but a small
hole, which closes after the passage of the shot,
thus preventing the escape of blood, and causing
the bird to die quickly from internal hemorrhage;
whereas a larger shot striking in the same place
leaves an open hole, through which the blood
runs freely, and the bird flies on frequently out
of sight, or until it dies from sheer loss of blood.

My own idea is that fully nine-tenths of the
game that dies solely from loss of blood or inter-
nal hemorrhage is never recovered by the sports-
man; and though I admit they die more quickly
when bleeding internally than if the blood flows
outwardly, yet from the wound made by the
larger shot, as more of the veins or minute
blood-vessels are severed, more blood would escape,
and the choking from internal hemorrhage would
ensue full as quickly though a portion of the blood
should pass through to the outside.

It is by the severe shock or paralysis of the
nervous system more often than otherwise that
death from gunshot wounds is produced, and this

GUNS. 31

alone is the almost invariable cause of instant
death in such cases. Assuming this to be
the fact (and I think but few of my thinking
readers will hesitate to do so, being supported
in the opinion by the testimony of our most
skilful surgeons), it follows that our object should
be to create a shock sufficiently severe to always
insure death if possible. It is well known that
a comparatively slight blow in a vital point, as
certain parts of the head, neck, or the immedi-
ate region of the heart, will produce a shock
sufficient to cause death. A very heavy blow, or
the united shock of a number of lighter blows,
taking effect in less vulnerable parts, may be suf-
ficient to accomplish our purpose. So _ long
as we insure striking a vital place, it is obvi-
ous the larger the shot we can use the better,
as, their momentum being greater, and their in-
dividual striking surfaces larger, they must con-
sequently have greater bone-smashing and nerve-
destroying effects, and produce greater shocks.
Once in a while, though once too often, a stick-
ler for small shot will assert as an argument in
their favor that small shot will penetrate deeper
than large ones, as their surface to be resisted

is so much smaller.

32 EQUIPMENT.

But, without arguing the point, let the sceptic
put it to practical test, and if he finds in shoot-
ing at the same target of pine-wood, all other
things being equal, that he can get deeper pene-
tration with No. 6 shot than he can with No. 1,
my faith in the certainty of things in this life
will be sadly shaken.

Having wisely chosen our shot, our desire
should certainly be to give as great a force
to those shot as is compatible with safety,
comtort of shooting, and sufficient closeness and
regularity in their dispersion; for an excess
of powder over the proper charge will
cause the shot to scatter widely. The pro-
per amount of powder, as well as the size
and proportionate quantities of shot, we can
determine only by experiment. As to the
amount of each suitable for duck-shooting, from
my own experience and observatioh of the
charges used by the most successful duck-hunt-
ers of my acquaintance, 1 find the best propor-
‘tions to be:

For a 10-gauge, 4 to 5} drachms powder, 1
to 14 ounces shot.

For a 9-gauge, 44 to 6 drachms powder, 1
to 13 ounces shot.

GUNS. 33

For an 8-gauge, 5 to 7 drachms powder, I}
to 14 ounces shot.

These charges are amply sufficient for single
ducks, and will kill as far as heavier ones if the
game be fairly held on. For flock-shooting or a
poor marksman, more shot may be added with
advantage, as giving more striking surface; and in
using larger shot than No. 4, one-quarter ounce
should be added to each of the foregoing charges,
on account of the fewer number of pellets con-
tained in the ounce. As good a way as any to
determine the best size of shot to be used for
game is to shoot at a target the actual size of
the game it is intended for, and at any distance
where you can be tolerably certain of striking
the target, with four or five pellets, and suffi-
cient force and penetration (which is the main
point), you may be sure you will be able to
secure your bird if fairly held on.

For duck-shooting with a breech-loader I would
recommend the use of metallic shells. I am satis-
fied they shoot stronger. Paper shells are very
liable to get wet and thereby spoiled, besides
requiring so much room if a large amount of
shooting is expected. Their extra cost, too,

though an insignificant item in the minds of some,

34 EQUIPMENT.

is not to be overlooked by the poorer sports-
man.

I have seen an objection made to the metallic
shell in the columns of the Turf, Field, and
Farm, \ believe, by a paper-shell man, to the
effect that they were dangerous to use. In sup-
port of this he goes on to say that, having had
one miss fire, he put the shell into a vise, and was
punching a hole in the cap for the purpose of
prying it off with an awl, when it exploded, and
he narrowly escaped serious injury. This reminds
me very much of the boy who, to discover .whe-
ther his gun was loaded or not, commenced to
blow in the muzzle. Seeing the hammer was down,
and thinking perhaps that prevented the air from
escaping, he endeavored to cock the gun with his
toe, which slipped, but not until he had raised
the hammer sufficiently, however, to convince him
undeniably that the gun was loaded. Had he
been permitted to live a few moments longer, he
perhaps might have been led to remark, in the
simplicity of his spirit, that “loaded guns were
dangerous.”

I have known two cases of shells being ex-
ploded accidentally—one a paper, the other a
metallic shell—both in capping after the shells

GUNS. 35

were filled. The paper shell burst, splitting the
holder’s thumb open, and depriving him of the
use of his hand for several days. The metallic
shell did no serious harm whatever, not bursting,
delivering its charge rather forcibly, but luckily
not towards any one. By capping the shells
before filling, which should aleays be done,
all positive danger from accidental explosion is
avoided.

The “Sturtevant” shell I like best for the
following reasons: First, the loading apparatus is
reduced to a minimum. From its construction, the
anvil and ejector remaining in the shell, the extra
tool for punching off caps needed with all other
shells is dispensed with, the rod for pushing down
the wads answering the purpose. Second, they
are less liable to miss fire. Third, the cost of
caps, which are the same as used in the paper
shells, is less than any others, excepting common
muzzle-loading, and, in cases of emergency, G.
D’s may be used. Fourth, with proper care
they are more durable than any other shell.

Wads (Eley’s are the very best ones) two
sizes larger than the bore of the shell should be
used to prevent the displacement of the shot in
one barrel by the. discharge of the other, as fre-

36 EQUIPMENT.

quently happens if wads of too small a size are
used. Repeated firing, however, will loosen most
any wad; so the sportsman if in the habit of
firing one barrel more than the other should,
after firing that barrel two or three times in
succession, change the loaded shell remaining in
the gun to that barrel, and put the fresh one in
its place. Some sportsmen of my acquaintance
use wads three or four (and one five) sizes larger
than their guns; but this I consider decidedly
going to extremes. Where one of so large a size
is used it crimples, and holds even less than a smal-
ler one. If the wads are at all thin, two should
be used over the powder. One alone is apt to
be blown to pieces in the barrel, causing the gun
to shoot badly.

More breech-loaders get shaky in the action by
being worked carelessly than from repeated firing,
and when buying a gun the purchaser is seldom
taught the proper method of using it, so I will
attempt to describe it here. The barrels should
never be allowed to drop down suddenly, bring-
ing up with a sudden jerk, as is the favorite way
with the snap advocates; neither should they be
thrown back into position with a snap; that
must wear the hinge excessively. But, on taking the

GUNS. 37

gun down from the shoulder after firing, drop the
stock inside the elbow, and hold it firmly against
the body with the upper arm; then, grasping the
barrels tightly with the left hand a few inches
in front of the hinge, unfasten the lever with the
right, and lower the barrels down easily. Use
either hand to withdraw and insert the shells,
-holding the gun in position with the other. The
gun should then be closed in the same careful
manner. The whole operation, so long on paper,
can thus be performed as quickly as in any other
way, if not quicker.

In loading a muzzle-loader, study to make as
few motions as possible, and those short and di-
rect. If shooting from a boat, have a large, straight
rod nearly the size of the bore, with which you
may push the wads down as quick as -you please.
A quick-loading flask, 7.2, one having a large
feed-hole to the charger, should also be used.

It is often desirable, where ducks are flyihg in
spurts, or cripples are to be secured, to load
as fast as possible. In order to do this, the
shooter should provide himself with a few
thin metallic tubes (tin is good), about an
inch and a half in length, with an inside
diameter equal to the bore of the gun. Then,

38 EQUIPMENT.

first placing them on a level surface, he is
to .push a wad into each as far as the bottom,
and, after cutting in the proper loads of shot, is
to secure each firmly with another wad. Then,
when in a hurry to load, all he needs to do,
after dropping his powder into the barrel, is to
place one of these tubes over the muzzle (guides
should be soldered to the outside of the tubes
to insure their being in the right position), and
with his rod push the contents down at once,
when capping finishes the operation. The tubes
may be refilled during the intervals between
shots.

The proper accoutrements for carrying powder
and shot are so universally known that to de-
scribe them would be simply a waste of time.
To those who may be in need of such advice,
however, I will just say, if you will load from the
tin canister you buy your powder in, get some-
thing else besides a screw-top; and, if you must
use a bottle to carry your shot in, try and find
one with a neck large enough to prevent the shot
from jamming and stopping it up when coming
out; and, though you may save a cap or two by
it, it is not economical in the end to carry your
caps in a box, which frequently, in fact always,

GUNS. 39

when the ducks are flying thick, you must open
with your teeth if you want a cap. Carrying
them in your vest-pocket is (take my word for
it until you try it) full as handy.

Now, to both old and young, let me add the
caution: Be careful in handling and carrying
your gun. NervER CARRY IT WITH THE HAMMERS
DOWN oN THE caps. At half-cock is the proper
position; then, if the locks are well made and in
good order, it will be. almost impossible for the
gun to be accidentally discharged. Even at full-
cock there is less danger than with the hammers
down. i ,

More of the frightful accidents with guns are
attributable to this carrying with the hammers
down than to any other one thing. How many
times guns are accidentally discharged without seri-
ous consequences we have no means of finding out.
If it could be known, I am satisfied the number
from the reasons above given would exceed all
others combined.

A very careless and dangerous way of carry-
ing a gun, though a very common one with some,
is to grasp it by the muzzle, with the barrels
resting on the shoulder and pointing to the front.
1 have myself known of three fatal accidents

40 EQUIPMENT.

caused in this manner, all directly occasioned by
stumbling, when, in guarding against the fall, the
stock was suddenly thrown over to the front,
and the hammers, striking the ground, exploded
the charge.

One of the safest, easiest, and readiest methods
of carrying the gun is across the front of the
body, the barrels pointing diagonally upwards, the
fore end of the stock resting in the hollow of
the left arm, and the gun held in position by
the left hand, which grasps the wrist ‘of the
stock. The right hand instead of the left may
be used to hold the stock, in which case the
fingers of the left simply ‘lie behind the ham-
mer. With the barrels over the shoulder and
the stock to the front is always a good way;
but care should be taken, especially if hunting
in company, to keep the muzzle well elevated.
In a boat, lay the gun in such a position that
the muzzle may be pointing from you, and hunt
as little with a greenhorn companion as possible.

THE ACT OF SHOOTING.

I shall suppose my readers to have at least
a fair knowledge of shooting in the field, and,
therefore, will not attempt a discourse upon the

SHOOTING, 41

ABC of the art. It is an acknowledged fact, how-
ever, that some of our most successful field-shots
frequently make .rather poor work of shooting
wild fowl. ‘Their usual fault is in hurrying too
much, not taking time to make the necessary
allowance for the rapidity of flight. Straight-
away shots they usually kill better than any
others, because little or no calculation is required;
but in cross and over-head shooting, where most
judgment is called for, their shot too frequently
passes behind the bird. A few brief instructions
upon the subject, therefore, may not prove in-
appropriate.
Never bring up the gun in a direction opposite
to the bird’s flight, nor put it up in any way
in front of the birds, waiting for them to come
to it; but wait until they get nearly to you,
and then, bringing the gun up directly behind
them, carry it forward quickly in the exact line
of their flight, and pull the trigger without
stopping the motion of the gun. The precise
time of pulling, and the amount of space which
must be allowed in front of them and _ behind
the line of aim, will, of course, vary greatly in
accordance with the direction and apparent velocity
of their flight and the probable distance they

42 EQUIPMENT.

may be from the shooter. All these conditions,
and the allowance to be made, you must estimate
almost instantly, whilst putting up the gun, and
without musing or pondering over it. This, of
course, can be learned only by practice; no in-
structions can convey the art.

The rates of allowance vary with different
people, some almost imperceptibly arresting the
motion of the gun at the instant of pulling
trigger, others stopping it almost entirely; there-
fore it will be impossible to give any precise
rules by which this may be determined. To
kill mallard when flying at their usual rate of
speed, I myself should aim, I think, about two
feet, or their length, in advance, if at a distance
of thirty-five yards from them. This may help
to give the tyro a proximate idea of it, though
he may find in practice, for the reasons given
above, his proper allowance to be either a little
more or less. With experience, the hand and
eye will seem to act intuitively without prompt-
ing from the mind; but it will require painstak-
ing attention. It is not enough to toss the gun
up carelessly, and to shoot anywhere in the
direction of the ducks.

To make the best work of sitting shots, dif:

SHOOTING. 43

ferent rules are given by various authors, some
saying to shoot at the birds as they are turned,
from us on the water, and others telling us to
wait for the broadside chance. One thing certainly
you may rest assured of, which is agreed to by
all: when the birds are facing you is the poorest
time.

Your position should not be too high, but
about two feet above the level of the ducks, if
convenient. If the flock is large and close to
you, do not shoot at the nearest ones, but rather
beyond, inside the edge of the flock, as many
pellets which in the first case would be wasted
in striking the bodies would, if delivered as
directed, take effect almost entirely upon the
heads and necks, most vital parts; those of the
nearer ducks, if the flock is closely packed, often
‘completely shielding the bodies of those farther
off.

The ducks may be engaged in feeding, some
of them tail-end up, with their heads and necks
under water. It is useless to shoot at them in
this position. In such a case the shooter should
give a low whistle to make them raise their
heads before firing. Do not start them up, as some
authors advise, but shoot as soon as their heads

44 EQUIPMENT.

are raised. More may be killed when on the
water by following the above directions than in
any way after they have started.

Do not use shot of too large a size, nor try
to get too near, but give your charge a chance to
spread.

In shooting over your cripples, which should
be done as soon as possible, secure the liveliest
one first, and try, if you can get two or three
in line, to shoot them before they separate.
The dead ones should be the last gathered.

CHAPTER II.
BLINDS.

Tuouen the principles of general procedure
may often be the same in like varieties of wild-
fowl shooting, the different surroundings frequently
necessitate the exercise of considtrable ingenuity
in the providing of proper ambush, or blind, as
all such hiding-places are generally termed by
wild-fowlers. And as it will save considerable
labor to know how to set about it properly, I
will devote a few lines to the subject.

The first thing to be done before building your
blind is to decide upon its most favorable loca-
tion; and this decision must be governed by various
conditions influencing the actions of the ducks,
and which you must understand, as well as the
habits of your game, before you can be sure of
being right. When you enter a pond, note how
the ducks may be sitting, whether scattered pro-

miscuously about it, or grouped in some particu-
45

46 EQUIPMENT,

lar place. Where they are thickest they care
most to be. On putting them out, note how they
leave the pond; they will almost invariably return
from that direction. They seldom take a round-
about course. Note the position of the sun and
time of day, remembering the sunny side of the
pond is best for decoys. Note, also, the direction
and force of the wind, and its probable influence
on the ducks. From a proper consideration of these
and various other little items, not easily enume-
rated here, I will suppose its location determined.
Now, if a natural blind can be found, such as an
old tree-top or roots, a bunch of bushes, or such
like, in a suitable position, it should, of course, be
taken in preference to building a new one, as the
ducks, accustomed to the object, have become
familiar with it, and, having no suspicions of
danger, do not hesitate to approach; but if such
a blind is not to be had, your next course will
be to decide upon the most suitable materials
handy for building an artificial one, and these, with
its shape, should be selected as nearly as possible
in consonance with the nature of the surroundings,
an improper selection exciting observation, and
consequently suspicion. Take plenty of time and
build your blind well; make it look as natural

BLINDS. AT

as possible, and sufficiently large and impenetrable
to sight to afford proper concealment. If the
ducks are liable to approach from different direc-
tions, build it to enclose you completely. A half-
built blind is a nuisance.

It is certainly laughable to see a greenhorn
behind a blind such as he usually builds—a few
bushes stuck up to dodge around—when, as it often
happens, a couple of flocks of ducks may be ap-
proaching at the same time from different direc-
tions. At first he tries to hide from both, but,
giving that up as impossible, makes up his mind
which of the flocks is of the most heedless dispo-
sition, or is coming most directly towards him,
and so jumps to that side of his clump of bushes
which affords most concealment from them. On
looking over his shoulder an instant, however, his
mind wavers, and, affecting his body, that, too,
begins to waver, first to one side of the blind,
and then to the other, as the vacillations of the
mind seem to prompt it. All his motions, how-
ever, only serve to attract the attention of the
ducks, and they swerve by to either side far out
of reach. He now deliberates awhile, and concludes
his blind is not large enough. So he starts for
the nearest timber or patch -of bushes to cut more

48 EQUIPMENT.

brush, watching as he goes for the approach of the
ducks. Just as he gets to the timber he sees a
flock coming, and back he runs as fast as possible,
perhaps through mud and slush, arriving at the
blind as they go by, too wide of course by rods.
Now he is sorry he left the blind, and remains
fearful to leave, lest others may come; but upon
their coming, and again disappointing him, he fully
makes up his mind (if the ducks will only stay
away long enough) to get more brush; does so,
and finally succeeds in getting a half-decent blind
built, about the time the ducks quit flying. If he
has a dog to whistle to and bellow at, and to yank
around the blind when ducks are approaching, it
adds very materially to the entertainment in the
eyes and ears of one who can appreciate it.

In high wild oats or flags of course no building
is required. The boat, if shooting from one, should
be pushed into one of the thickest bunches, at
right angles with the main line of flight. Then
the tops of the stalks or flags are to be struck
down and in towards the boat with an oar, cover-
ing as near as possible the bow and stern, and
afterwards trimmed so as not to interfere with the
swinging of the gun, and the blind is complete.

When two persons are hunting in company in a

“TTV J—ONILOOHS GavVTIVA, INOg Fy

BLINDS. 49

rice-pond, it is well for one to take a stand on
one of the large muskrat-houses nearly always to
be found there, as by taking separate positions
more shots are obtained. To build a blind in a
rat-house, a large one like a small hay-stack
should be selected, a hole dug in the middle with
the hands and feet, and the edges then built
higher with stalks of rice or flags. This makes
an excellent blind, as the ducks, being accustomed
to rat-houses, take no especial notice of it. It is
a favorite manceuvre of greenhorns to crawl round
the outside of rat-houses, endeavoring to hide, and
being liable to be kicked off upon firing. I have
crawled about many a one thus in my early duck-
shooting days.

If the blind is to be built of small branches or
bushes, they should be stuck up in the ground
close together, smaller twigs entwined among
them, and bunches of grass, weeds, rice, or flags
scattered judiciously over and amongst them, to
close all large, open spaces or thin places that
the ducks might see through. If very large,
bushy branches are used, they may be laid down
crossing each other, with the tops turned out-
wards. The blind should never be built higher
than the shoulders when in an erect position.

50 EQUIPMENT,

In cutting down a willow blind about a boat,
as the common blinds are made in spring, con-
siderable judgment is necessary. As the ponds
are usually bordered with willows, it is generally
easy to find a group growing in the position
desired, the most favorable one being that where
four trees grow as it were in the angles of a
rectangular parallelogram, being apart in one
direction the width of the boat, and in the other
about three-fourths its length. If in such a posi-
tion that the boat must be head on to the decoys,
the boat should be placed between them, and the
trees felled towards the bow, the cut ends
allowed to remain on the stumps, the tops of the
forward trees crossing each other on the bow,
and the after-tops lying on the forward trunks.
If the tops are not sufficiently leafy and dense,
more branches must be cut from the neighbor-
ing trees and placed upon them, and it will
sometimes be necessary to tie these branches in
position to prevent their being blown off. Should
the trees grow the other way, z.e., the long side
of the parallelogram towards the decoys, they
should be felled, those on the same side of the
boat towards each other, and branches should be
added and fastened. ‘The new cut ends of the

BLINDS. 51

trunks and stumps should always be covered
with mud or grass to hide them. from sight of
the ducks. Should the forward trees be the
proper distance apart, it’ is a good plan to
wedge the boat between them, thus making it
more steady and better to shoot from.

In_ blue-bill shooting upon the edges of our
ploughed prairies and corn-fields, an excellent
blind may be made by turning your boat upon
its edge, and bracing it in that position by a
stake or oar. Game do not appear to be at all
suspicious of it. For teal and golden-eyes this
plan answers nearly as well; but mallard and
canvas-back are generally shy of it.

In the winter, when the ground is covered
with snow, a blind made of bleached cotton-cloth,
fastened to stakes stuck in the ground, affords a
good concealment, and cannot be easily distin-
guished from the surrounding snow. A_ white
handkerchief should be worn over the cap or hat.

Great quantities of ducks are often killed in
the air-holes about freezing-up time. Long
after the feeding-ponds are entirely covered with
ice the ducks remain feeding in the corn-fields
miles from the river, to which they return to
roost at night, in holes which they keep open

52 EQUIPMENT.

during the severest weather by the warmth of
their bodies, and by keeping the water con-
stantly in motion. It is not unusual at such
times to kill over a hundred during the day.
One of the best blinds for this kind of sport is
made of ice. It should bé cut in cakes, the size
of which should be proportioned to its thickness,
and these should be placed on edge or end in the
proper form. If the ice is thin, say three or four
inches thick, and the day cold, shallow grooves
should be cut in the bed-ice, and the ends of the
cakes placed therein. Water should then be poured
about them, and the fine ice made in chopping
packed in beside them, which will quickly cement
together, holding the cakes firm and upright. Old
ice or ice mixed with snow is the best, as new
ice, if thin, is generally too transparent; but, if
white cotton cloth be hung inside the new ice,
it makes the blind all that could be desired.
Another and perhaps the very best blind that
can be made for air-hole shooting is the sunken
box, not the battery described under the head
of canvas-back shooting, but a deep box of pine,
almost forty inches square on top and _ fifteen
inches on the bottom, On account of the diffi-
culty of sinking it, it should be as small as

BLINDS, 53

convenient, and the sides made tapering from
top to bottom; or like the figure given below,
which I think is the better plan; the lower part
being as deep as from the knee to the. sole of the
foot, the upper part sufficiently deep to completely
hide the body of the shooter when in a crouching
position. ‘To sink the box, a square hole, a trifle
larger than the outside of the larger box, is cut

in the ice where the box is intended to be
placed, and the box then sunk to the desired
depth by loading it sufficiently with water. It
is now fastened in position to two stout poles,
about twelve feet long, which have been previ-
ously pushed under the surrounding ice, one
along either side, and touching the box. The
water used in sinking is now bailed out again,
and, after hiding the edges of the box with pieces
of ice, it is ready for occupancy. When the

54 EQUIPMENT.

ice is not sufficiently strong to hold down the
empty box, this plan must be given up, and
the box kept to the desired depth by stones or
other heavy weights.

CHAPTER IIL
DECOYS.

Oye of the most important requisites to insure
success in wild-fowl shooting, and more especially
in the pursuit of the deep-water varieties, is a
suitable floek of decoys. They may be made in
a multitude of ways, and of several different
materials, each of which has its peculiar advan-
tages, but at the same time its corresponding
defects. The principal objects to be attained by
all, however, are naturalness, or a sufficient resem-
blance to the species they are intended to repre-
sent, with the proper shape necessary to enable
them to ride in an erect position during the
heavy blows they are often exposed to. This
last desideratum is often partially and, I might
say, entirely overlooked in the desire to make
the " decoys as light as possible, and of such
shape as to take least room in transportation.
With such objects in view, would-be inventors

have tried a variety of methods in making them,
55

56 EQUIPMENT.

and though certainly accomplishing their object in
this respect, have failed most decidedly in the
main thing needed. One of them gave us
rubber decoys for the modest price of thirty
dollars per dozen. They were hollow, with a
tube attached, through which, when needed for use,
they were to be inflated with the breath, which
being ejected by compression when ready for
transportation, they could be packed in very little
space. They would float remarkably light and
airy, a property, though contrary to general sup-
position, not at all desirable, as causing them to
roll sidewise in the least ripple, a motion the
natural ducks never make, even in the roughest
weather. A shot-hole ruined them, and as the
rubber soon began to crack after but little usage
in a hot sun, they soon proved a failure. De-
coys of metal, too, were tried, both of copper
and tin, made to be taken apart, and the several
parts nested together for packing; these, besides
being very expensive, were proved to be com-
paratively no better than the rubber ones, for
reasons very obvious to the knowing ones, but
which the “greenies,” who want everything new,
could not see until they had paid their money
to find out.

DECOYS. 57

Decoys made of wood (not the things one
usually finds for sale in the gunshops, where
they should be allowed to remain, but as con-
structed to use, according to reason and with
a proper appreciation of the thing needed) are
preferable to any others, Having had some little
experience in their manufacture as well as their
use, and having the satisfaction of seeing my own
used as models by better hunters, I will describe
them as I think they should be made; willing at
the same time to yield due deference to the opin-
ions of others.

My principal object has been to secure the
best shape possible to prevent rolling, and to
ensure with least extra weight an upright posi-
tion at all times when in use. How I have en-
deavored to do this will be better understood from
the annexed cuts, representing outlines of the

Decoys.

58 EQUIPMENT,

decoy, than by any explanation I could convey in
words.

White cedar and soft pine are undoubtedly the
best woods for decoys, on account both of their
extreme lightness and ease of cutting. Pine per-
haps is better for heals, being less easily broken,
while cedar is the most durable. The timber
should be well seasoned and free from knots and
sap. For ducks, 2X6 inches is the proper size,
but for geese larger timber is needed.

The timber, being planed on one side and sawed
in proper lengths, is next cut around on its edge,
according to a pattern representing a horizontal
section of the decoy intended. Two pieces are
needed for each decoy, which must be gouged out
to the proper thickness, thus making the decoy
hollow. The head (which has been previously
shaped) is fitted and fastened to the top part by
a screw from beneath, and the two parts, being
roughly hewn into shape in conformation with a
side pattern, are, after being nicely fitted, glued
or otherwise cemented firmly together, and the
decoy rounded and finished smooth. After being
thoroughly" sand-papered, it should be wet slightly
all over so as to raise the grain of the wood,
and when dry should be again sand-papered. If

DECOYS. 59

the decoy be washed over with a thin dressing of
shellac, it will prove much more impervious to
water. This should be done before painting, and
no varnish should be put on afterwards, as it
makes the decoy too glaring when in the sun.
When thoroughly smooth, a heavy coat of priming
should be put on, of some neutral tint that will
not show too plainly through the coloring coat;
all of which should be mixed with raw oil, and
without an artificial drier. The priming should
be allowed to harden thoroughly before the colors
are put on. No priming is used on many of the
decoys for sale in the gun-shops; consequently,
they soon become water-suaked and heavy, and
the colors indistinct. Artists’ tube colors should
be used, being more lively and durable than com-
mon paint, and costing but little more; and the
nearer the painting resembles the coloring of the
natural duck the better. A small brass wire staple
or piece of leather is to be fastened to the lower
part of the breast, to attach the line to. A piece
of lead, about four ounces in weight, formed as
shown in the figure, should next be screwed on
to the bottom lengthwise, like a keel, and the de-
coy is complete.

For shoal-water duck-shooting, flat-bottomed, hol-

60 EQUIPMENT.

low decoys, of two and one-half inches in thickness,
answer fully as well, as the water is seldom rough.

Each decoy should be provided with a sepa-
rate line and anchor, which last should be of
lead, if convenient, as it is less liable to scratch
the paint from decoys than anything else. This
need néver exceed four ounces weight. The line
should be what is known as “sixteen thread”
seine twine, about one-tenth inch thick, of a length
adapted to’ the depth of water, and attached to
the staple or leather in the breast of the decoy.
Instead of winding the line round the neck of
the decoy, as is often done, the proper way is
to wind it tightly round the middle, which
may be done in much less time, an item of
importance when taking up decoys in a heavy
wind. And in setting them out again, instead of
unwinding them turn by turn, the decoy should
be taken by the head in one hand, and the lead
thrown with the other to the place desired, the
turns coming off towards the tail as the lead is
thrown. A large flock of decoys may be set out
in this way in a remarkably short time.

In this connection it will, I think, be well to
give a few directions as to the management of
the boat when taking up decoys in a heavy

DECOYS. 61

“blow.” If you remain in the stern, you will find
it very hard to keep your boat head to wind;
when stooping to pick up your decoys, it will
whirl round, and you will have some work to
turn it back again. Therefore, stand in the bow,
with your knees braced against the bulkhead or
sides of the boat, and paddle bow first as usual.
By so doing the boat will never Of itself turn
the wrong way, and you may pick up your
decoys in a short time and with comparatively
little labor, when it would be impossible in the
manner first mentioned.

Always pick up your leeward-most decoys first,
and, just before stooping to grasp each one, give
the boat an extra stroke ahead to keep up its
headway whilst winding the line. If you erro-
neously commence at the windward side of the
flock, many of the lines will invariably become
entangled in winding up, when those of the
windward decoys must often be pulled over
those nearest to leeward; and in the event of
the boat’s drifting back upon them and bunching
them together, as will unavoidably occur if the
decoys are placed as closely together as they
should be, before the snarled lines are sepa-
rated and wound up the boat may have been

62 EQUIPMENT.

blown to leeward many yards, occasioning hard
pulling to bring back again, besides the confu-
sion it has made.

A favorite way of making decoys with some of
the old sea-coast “gunners” of my acquaintance
(though I never thought much of it and have never
seen such used in the Western country) was simply
to cut them" in outline of inch *boards. These
were fastened one at either end to short boards,
termed floaters, about two feet long and six
inches in width, by pins inserted in holes bored
in the under edges of the decoys, which, being
loose, left them free to turn sidewise with the
action of the wind and waves. The anchor-line
was fastened to the centre of the floater; and
when not in use the decoys could be lifted
from the pins and be packed in compara-
tively little space. They seemed to work first-
rate, especially in coot-shooting, though I should
much prefer the full-sized hollow decoy, notwith-
standing the additional packing-room required.
One special advantage they undoubtedly pos-
sessed—that of being easily and quickly made.

Another, and perhaps the best decoy for coot-
shooting, is made as follows: <A piece of pine-
board, or cork is better if procurable, is shaped

DECOYS. 63

for the bottom of the decoy, and to this is nailed,
at right-angles and lengthwise, another piece of
board, cut to represent a vertical section of that
portion of the decoy above water, the under edge
being left straight to fit the bottom piece; pieces
of flat barrel-hoops, or similar elastic material,
are now bent over. the top crosswise, and fast-
ened to the bottom board about three to four
inches apart by tacking, thus forming a_ frame-
work for the decoy. This is now to be covered
smoothly with strong cotton cloth, and the edges
pinned securely ; the head, which is made of wood,
being fastened in proper position on the edge
of the vertical board, and the decoy, after being
painted and thus rendered perfectly waterproof, is
complete. Ballast, however, is usually added to
keep them erect in rough weather. ' These de-
coys are generally made three or four times the
size of the natural duck for greater show, and
are a great advantage over the life-sized wood-
en ones on this account, coot being uncom-
monly foolish ducks, so much so that “silly as
a coot” has become a frequent expression of the
coast-gunners when speaking of a light-headed or
tipsy person. This pattern of decoys 1 would not
recommend for Western gunners, unless it be for

64 EQUIPMENT,

goose-shooting, as they are too large and clumsy
for convenience in carrying.

A few years ago a man named Woodsum (if
I remember the name correctly) got out a patent
for a flapping decoy. A board, which served as
a floater, had a hole cut through it the size of
the decoy, and in this the decoy (which was made
like any common wooden one) was placed and fast-
ened to the board by pins running into its
sides, and serving as hinges upon which the de-
coy tilted easily. Wings, formed of wire and
covered with cloth or other similar substance,
were hinged in position, and the decoy anchored
in the usual manner. A line leading to the blind
was so fastened to the decoy that upon its be-
ing pulled the forward end was raised upon the
hinges to a nearly erect position, similar to that
of the live duck when flapping its wings, and the
wings were elevated at right angles with the
body. It was quite an ingenious contrivance, and
helped considerably to attract attention to the de-
coys, especially on dark, calm days. On _ such
days, if a string be tied to a common decoy, by
pulling it a ripple is occasioned or a motion made
among the decoys, which will prove of con-
siderable advantage. A short whistle or slight

* DECOYS, 65
noise of any kind sufficiently loud for the ducks
to hear without alarming them may direct their
attention toward the decoys, and so prove the
means of turning them; but for such ducks as
may be called readily, of course an imitation of
their call-note is better.

Thirty decoys, at least, are needed for canvas-
back shooting, and as many as two hundred and
fifty are often used—the more the better. For
mallard shooting, twenty wooden ones are sufficient
to carry, as dead ones may be stuck up at any
time. Though a few canvas-back may pro-
perly be used with mallard decoys in mallard or
redhead shooting to increase the show of the
flock, it is seldom, or IJ may almost say never, de-
sirable or advantageous to use the mallard decoys
for canvas-back, as they do not feed together and
have no desire to associate. For Western duck-
Shooting, but three, or at most four, different
varieties of duck decoys are needed, all other ducks
decoyifZ to some one of these kinds as well as
to their own. Mallard and canvas-back are the
kinds most especially required, while redhead and
blue-bill decoys may be advantageously used.
And here I will endeavor to arrange the decoys
as needed for the different varieties.

66 EQUIPMENT.

For Mallard—Mallard decoys; a few redhead
and canvas-back beneficial if the flock is small,
and especially on overflowed prairies.

For Canvas-back—Canvas-back decoys; redhead
and blue-bills added ‘to any extent advantageous.

For Redhead—Redhead decoys; with mallard
in shoal water, and canvas-back and blue-bills in
deep water.

For Blue-bills—Redhead and canvas-back decoys
with blue-bills (blue-bills alone do not show well).

For Sprigtail Teal and Gray Ducks—Mallard,
or mallard and redhead decoys.

For Widgeon—Any or all kinds; mallard best,
especially in shoal water.

Spoon-bills—Mallard decoys.

Wood-duck—Mallard decoys, though these do
not decoy well to anything.

Other small deep-water ducks, to deep-water
decoys. When ducks desire to come into any
particular place, any decoy may help to quiet
their suspicions of danger, and would then be
of advantage, though of little use in other places.

To illustrate the crude ideas of some indi-
viduals in regard to decoys, I will relate a little
incident. I was paddling up a certain river in
company with my hunting partners one day dur-

DECOYS. 67

ing spring duck-shooting, when, a heavy rain-shower
coming up, we took refuge under an old ware-
house in the small town we happened to be
passing, and while there were visited by several
of the town inhabitants, to whom strangers were
an especial attraction. Amongst the rest was a
sporting New Yorker, dressed up in fancy shoot-
ing costume, and followed by a retinue of “saloon
bummers and dead-beats,” by whom his every
wish was anticipated and his money most eagerly
sought for.. I found on conversing with him that
he had come to hunt ducks, and certainly he had
chosen a good place to find them, though skilful
hunters were not to be had then to accompany
him; in fact, when going down the river during
the fall before, our cook sold to one of the town
fellows the first decoys ever owned there.

We had some idea of stopping there to shoot
awhile, and so I enquired of him what ‘the prospects
were, if ducks were plenty, ete. “Oh! yes,” said
he, “there are plenty of canvas-backs, but they
are fearfully wild, and won’t decoy worth a d—n”
“So, then, you use decoys?” said I. “Yes, indeed;
brought them from New York with me; you
can’t do anything without decoys, you know.” I
of course agreed with him there, and asked him

68 EQUIPMENT.

what kind he used. “Well, I’ve got mallards,
canvas-back, redheads, sprigtails, blue-bills, and
teal,” he answered rather consequentially. “ Why,
you have got a variety certainly,” said I, some-
what surprised. “How many have you alto-
gether?” “ Thirteen,” was the reply. I didn’t
ask him what the odd one was, being entirely
satisfied as to why the canvas-backs were so “ fear-
fully wild,” and we afterwards found they decoyed
to a nice little flock of about seventy of the
proper kinds entirely to our satisfaction.

In the chapter on “Midday Mallard-shooting,” I
shall give a full description of the. “setting up”
of dead ducks in shallow water, and so will omit
it here. In canvas-back and other deep-water duck-
shooting, however, as it'-is often desirable to in-
crease the show of the decoys, dead ducks may
be fastened to them by a short line, allowing
them to flodt some five or ten feet behind the
decoy. The line should be, fastened to the neck
of the dead duck, which should be placed on its
breast on the water. The fact of the heads not
being in sight makes no material difference, this
absence being probably considered by the live
ones as due to the position of feeding. A small
flock of decoys may be patched up in this way

e

DECOYS. 69

to make quite a creditable appearance. In cold
weather, when there was no danger of the ducks
being spoiled by keeping a few days, 1 used to
often leave fifty or sixty, when I had them at
night, covered up with leaves and brush, near
my shooting-place, to use for decoys next day,
and these, with the wooden decoys,I usually carried,
were generally sufficient to allay all fears enter-
tained by the suspicious ones.

Live tame ducks make probably the best decoys
to- be had for mallard and black-duck shooting,
but they are such a nuisance to take care of
and transport that they are seldom used in
the West. It would almost seem as though they
took an especial delight in seeing their kindred
killed, from the continuous calling and quacking
they keep up whenever a flock of wild ones come
in sight; and they seldom call in vain, for on the
wild ones hearing them they immediately turn
and come in. The young wild-fowler, when shoot-
ing over live decoys, should learn to imitate their
notes as nearly as possible, an accomplishment
which will prove of decided benefit to him
when shooting without decoys or over wooden

ones.
It is often a great advantage, when shovt-

70 EQUIPMENT.

ing over wooden decoys, to have a live duck to
throw in the air when wijld ones are approaching.
She should be secured by a light, strong line,
of from fifteen to twenty-five yards in length, to
the blind to prevent escape, and should be blind-
folded by a hood drawn over the eyes; then, not
being able to see how far she has to fall after
being thrown up, she will spread her wings and
allow herself to drop gradually with feet extended.
as is the usual manner of ducks when alighting.
The attention of the other ducks being attracted
toward the decoys by her motions, they come in
without hesitation. In the absence of a live duck,
dead ones may be thrown up to attract attention,
but do not answer quite as well, as they fall too
quickly ; for this reason should not be thrown too
high, but rather in a nearly level direction.

When shooting teal or mallard in very shallow
water with but few decoys, lumps of mud, pieces
of bark, or bunches of brush of the proper size
may be judiciously employed to deceive the ducks.
They should be mixed with those decoys nearest
the blind, but never outside the wooden ones. I
have known ducks to decoy all day to a little
rough patch of ground left bare by the melting
of the ice along the main shore. Of course they

DECOYS. 71

would discover their mistake before alighting, but
would dart near enough to afford quite fair shoot-
ing from a blind near by.

Rather a cruel method, perhaps, but one at-
tended with great success in wild-goose shooting,
is, on securing a wing-broken one, to fasten it to
a stake a short distance from the blind, when it
will call most vociferously on seeing others
approaching or passing by, who are almost
certain to come if within hearing distance. Geese
should be set up for decoys as fast as killed.
{f shooting at an air-hole in the ice, stick their
heads under their wings, and set them up near
the edge of the hole.

An excellent decoy for swan-shooting (they de-
‘coy very readily) is an old white shirt drawn
over a bunch of brush, the sleeve being supported
by a branch or stick in the proper position, form-
ing the neck and head. A single one, if thus set
out in their feeding or roosting ponds, will answer
nearly as well as a dozen, but for travelling birds
more are needed. :

As to the position and shape necessary to
arrange the decoys in respect to wind, I shall
describe that in reference to battery-shooting, under
that head. For point-shooting, shooting from a

72 EQUIPMENT,

blind on shore, or in the edge of the willows trom
a boat, a few hints may be welcome.

With the wind off shore a very good way
for .shoal-water ducks is to set them out
lengthwise with the shore, rather thinly scattered,
immediately opposite the blind, and grouped
together, as it were, in two separate flocks at
either hand. The open space opposite the blind
should not be more than ten to fifteen yards
wide, with perhaps five or six decoys in it, and
the main flocks about thirty yards from the
blind, no decoy being more than fifty yards
distant. By arranging them in this manner,
the ducks are allowed to come in between the
two flocks, and drop into the open space instead
of alighting outside the flock, as they often do”
when the decoys are improperly arranged. For
deep-water ducks, three or four decoys as tolers
may be set out to leeward, sometimes one hun-
dred yards or more from the blind; but if so
placed for the shoal-water varieties, they will
frequently alight with them instead of coming on
to the main flock.

With a side wind, the habit of the deep-water
ducks is to alight with the middle or windward

decoys, while the shoal-water varieties seldom pass

DECOYS. 13

over them, but usually alight with the more
leeward ones; place your decoys accordingly.

But the success.in decoy-shooting often depends
more on their position in reference to the sun,
if it be shining unobscured, than as regards the
wind. This fact, I have often observed, is entirely
overlooked by the great majority of duck-hunters.
The position of the sun is seldom for a moment
thought of, and, if at all, only to avoid its
shining in the face when shooting, in the loca-
tion of the decoys. There are so many things
to be observed and considered in the selec-
tion of the position for blind and decoys, that
no absolute rule can be adopted to fit all
cases. Circumstances will not always allow of
it
ditions permit, remember to so place the decoys

; but, as a rule to be observed when con:

that the sun may shine on that side of them
Jrom which the ducks approach. They will thus
attract attention, and be much more readily seen
than if the shady side is presented. This is a
secret of success in duck-shooting understood by
very few amateurs, but well worth knowing.
A thorough knowledge of these little things
marks the difference between the lucky man
and the unlucky one.

74 EQUIPMENT

Many are the different rules given by the would-
be thought knowing ones as to the best time for
shooting at ducks over decoys, the most common
one being to “wait until they are just m the act
of alighting, and then give it to ’em.” Others,
who understand plover-shooting better than wild-
fowling, say; “ Wait for them to double.” These
rules may do very well in their practice, but in
mine I have always found the best time to shoot
was not to be decided by rule. The numbers
of the ducks, their manner of approach, their
species, and various actions, whether suspicious or
otherwise, should influence the decision as to the
proper time. And as these conditions are con
stantly changing, no one rule will apply.

If single ducks or pairs come in, where is the
need of waiting until they are ready to alight?
They may see something to alarm them, and,
instead of alighting, sheer off. Besides often
losing them in this way, much time is lost in
waiting; and perhaps others that might be coming
arrive just in time to be frightened by the wild
shots made at the retreating ones, and thus
two chances are gone. No; just as soon
as you are satisfied they are within easy
killing distance, kill them if possible. How much

DECOYS. 15

better it looks to see a man kill his pair prettily
when flying over or by his decoys, than to wait
until all headway is stopped, and then shoot as
though at a sitting mark! If a small flock comes,
watch to get two or three crossing, and as soon
as you do, shoot; be ready at the same time to
use the second barrel. When a large flock comes
in, if you are satisfied they will alight, let them
do so, and wait until you get several in range,
if possible, before firing; but never give a single
duck the chance to get away, after his once
coming within thirty-five yards, without doing the
best you can to prevent him.

How well I remember my old partner, Joe
Carroll, the best duck-hunter by all odds I ever
met! What a slim chance a duck had for its
life after once approaching him within gunshot!
We were shooting together from an ice blind at
the edge of an air-hole one day (one of our big
days too), and the ducks were coming almost
continually. We had decoys and dead ones stuck
in frout of us, and almost every flock that came
along darted to them. The blind, however, was
made of new ice, and, being to a considerable
degree transparent, they could see us, though rather
indistinctly, through it—plainly enough, however,

16 EQUIPMENT.

to make them a trifle suspicious, and to want to
circle round and look at it awhile before making
up their minds to alight. Though they were
coming all the time, { was at first inclined to
wait until they came near enough in front of us
and over the decoys, the more especially as the
blind was small and not easy to turn about in.
I soon gave up this idea as a flock came in,
and circling behind us swung in within easy gun-
shot, and Joe, who was watching them as they
circled, jumped up, and, turning half-way round,
killed his pair prettily. “Why didn’t you wait
until they came round in front, so that we might
both have a chance?” I asked. “How did you
know,” was his Yankee reply, “that they were
coming round in front? And even if they were,”
said he, “a duck killed behind us is as good
as one in front; and when they are coming as
fast as they are here, it won’t do to lose time
in waiting. 1 supposed you were ready and
watching them when I jumped. I gave you
the word when I got up. Never wait,” said he,
“when they once come within easy killing dis-
tance in a situation like this.” And this advice
I have made it a point to follow, and, I think,
much to my own advantage.

DECOYS. 7

Mud-hens often cause the duck-shooter consider-
able annoyance, especially in blue-bill shooting, as
the ducks, instead of coming to the decoys, often
dart down to and alight with them. They should
always in such cases be driven out of the pond
if possible.

A large bag (a coffee-sack answers admirably)
is the best thing to carry duck decoys in on
land.

CHAPTER IV.

BOATS AND BOAT-BUILDING.

Tue size and shape of a paddle-boat proper for
duck-shooting on inland waters must depend, of
course, in a great measure, upon the locality in-
tended for its use, as a small, low-sided boat,
such as would be sufficiently large and safe for
narrow rivers and ponds, might be entirely out
of place and even dangerous on larger waters;
while one adapted to the latter would obviously
occasion more trouble in the finding of a suff-
cient concealment than was necessary on the
smaller streams if a correspondingly fit boat
were used. It follows, then, in regard to the size,
that it should be as small as possible compatible
with safety and the capability of transporting any
needed amount of freight. As to its shape, it
should be so formed as to insure greatest speed
with sufficient steadiness and seaworthy qualities,
and of such material and substance as to combine

least weight with satisfactory durability.
7B

BOATS AND BOAT-BUILDING. 79

I shall first describe a boat such as built for
comparatively large streams (the Illinois River, for
instance), capable, when managed by an expe-
rienced person, of withstanding any weather to
which the Western hunter is likely to be ex-
posed—such as I myself have made use of more
than any others, and which, I am satisfied, is- the
best shape for’ general use on Western waters,
and not too large for novices anywhere.

Now, the building of a paddle-boat is not so
simple an undertaking as many of my readers
may suppose; in fact, it is almost an art, and
simply giving the dimensions of the finished boat
proves of little value, for, not knowing how to
set about the building of it, the novice is
as far from its possession as though he had
never heard of it. I shall therefore en-
deavor to so explain the modus operandi
as to enable any one having a sufficient know-
ledge of the use of tools to build the boat as
it should be; and, to make my instructions more
clear, shall refer my readers to the drawing on
the following page.

The materials—clear white pine for sides,
seats, bulkhead, and bottom, and __ straight-
grained white oak for stem, stern-post, ribs,

80

a—Stem,

b—Rib.

EQUIPMENT.

INSIDE VIEW OF BOAT.

e—Stem, showing attachment.
or pusher, e—Oar-lock seat.

d—Mud-stick

BOATS AND BOAT-BUILDING. 81

‘knees, ete.—being collected, the first thing usu-
ally done is to “get into shape” the stem and
stern-post, the angles of which may be ascer-
tained by drawing an isosceles triangle, which shall
have for its base the width of the bulkhead at top
(18{ inches), and for its sides the distance from
front side of bulkhead to extreme point of bow (27
inches); the angle at apex of the triangle will then
be that proper for stem. The stern-post will
need to be a trifle more acute. Each should
measure 44 inches through from front to back,
and be cut as per figure, 23 inches back from
apex, and 4 inch deep, to receive the side-boards.

The side-boards, which should be 16 feet long,
164 inches wide, and from 3 to 4 inch thick,
are next shaped in the following manner: At
11 inches back from bow, and 10 inches for-
ward from stern-end, measured on the under
edge, cut off the end, up to the near upper
corners of board. This gives the slant of stem
and stern-post. Now, if the boards were bent
around in shape and with proper flare, the rake
of the bottom would be found entirely too
great; so to remedy this we cut away from the
under edge of the side-board a shallow arc,
which, commencing at the lower corners, rises

82 EQUIPMENT.

in a smooth curve to 4} inches at centre.
The top edges must also be cut down at
either end to a depth of 2 inches, dimin-
ishing in a gradual curve to middle of board,
otherwise the bow and stern would “ cock-up”.
too much, increasing the difficulty of paddling
in a strong side wind.

The bow-ends may now be screwed to the stem
(see ¢ in the figure), care first being taken that
they are evenly placed. The bulkhead-board (the
bottom edge being even with the inside lower
edge of sides) is next nailed or screwed in. This
should be 18} inches in width on top and 11
inches wide on bottom (back side), and placed per-
pendicular with top edge of side-board, 27 inches
back (measured along the side) from point
of bow. The stern-ends and _ stern-post are
now screwed together, and temporary braces
put in to secure the sides in proper position
to receive the ribs. The width of middle
set should be, top, 39 inches; bottom, 26 inches—
inside measurements. Light cords are now bound
round outside of the boards to draw them in place
where they are inclined to spring off too wide, and
the stern-seat brace (permanent) put in. This,
made of pine and similar to the bulkhead, should

BOATS AND BOAT-BUILDING. 83

be 12 inches wide at bottom, at top proportioned
to height, and placed square, with the top of the
side-board, 30 inches forward from long point of
board, measuring along its ‘edge.

The curves are now trued by two other sets
of braces, which must be regulated by the builder,
the bow end being left rather more full than the
stern. All is now ready for the ribs and cross-
bars, nine sets of which should be used, placed
at equal distance, about thirteen and a half inches
apart. The ribs, as -before mentioned, should be
made of oak, half an inch in thickness, and two and
a half in width, where they join the cross-bars,
and from here are tapered (see 6 in the figure).
The cross-bars should be of oak, half an inch thick,
and one and a half inches deep or wide. Each
rib must be accurately bevelled to fit squarely in
its place; the cross-bars being cut to their proper
lengths, and the flare of each set of ribs being
determined by fitting, they are screwed together,*
and fastened in position. Care must be taken
that the bottom of each cross-bar shall be placed
even with inside edge of the side-boards.

The whole is now turned over, bottom upwards,
and the outside edges of side-boards planed

: * Screws No. 9, 144 inch. ,

84 EQUIPMENT.

straight and smoothly in line with cross-bars, and
the edges afterwards painted to receive the bottom.
A straight line should now be drawn from stem
to stern, and, if it is found on measuring that
one side-board has sprung more than the other
(not often the case, however), it must be brought
back to position and secured when screwing on
the bottom. The bottom boards, five-eighths of
an inch thick (not more than three should be used,
and two is better, if they can be obtained of
sufficient width), being screwed firmly in place to
the cross-bars, the bu:xheads are next roughly
trimmed around on their outside edges in line
with the sides, and fastened to them firmly by
“fourpenny” nails driven along the edge, about
two and a half inches apart, the heads of which
should be slightly sunken in the wood.

After finishing the bottom smoothly (not round-
ing the edges), the boat may be turned over, and
the seats put in; one near the stern, with its for-
ward edge resting on the permanent brace before
mentioned, nine inches wide, and parallel with
bottom of boat; a second at eight inches forward
of the middle, and the third midway between
the two others. These two last should be seven
inches wide, one inch thick, and placed six inches

BOATS AND BOAT-BUILDING. 85

above the bottom of the boat. The middle seat
may be fastened by hooks, so that it can be taken
out and replaced again at any time, if desired.
This seat is particularly useful when two persons
go together, when both may row, if two sets
of oarlock-seats are provided, and these should be
placed, for an ordinary person, eleven inches back
from the nearest edges of seats.

Hand-holds are next in order;- these small
angular pieces should be of one-inch oak,
and fastened one at either end in the angles
formed by sides and stem and _ stern-post.
Two small angle-pieces should also be screwed in
at the back corners of bulkhead and sides, to
add to finish, and also to grasp when drawing
the boat upon shore. After receiving the wal-
ing—a semi-oval strip of hard wood half-inch thick
and one inch wide—around the outside upper
edges, as a protection against wear to the sides,
the boat is ready for its first coat of paint,
which should be of white-lead, mixed with raw
linseed-oil, and colored a light brownish drab by
the addition of burnt-umber and lampblack. No
artificial drier should be used, as it causes the
paint to scale and crack when exposed to the

action of water.

86

EQUIPMENT.

When the priming has been allowed to harden

water

or

Side View of Boat.

thoroughly, strips of sheet-zinc should
be bent on and tacked smoothly
around the edges of the bottom, from
the bow back to midships. This will

- protect the boat from damage whilst

cutting through thin ice, and will save
wear in various ways. It should ex
tend up the sides about four inches at
the bow, but farther back it may de-
crease gradually to half that width.
On the bottom it should lap about
two inches. The putting on of zine
is so simple an operation that an ex
planation is unnecessary. Another fin
ishing coat of paint, and the boat is
complete.

The oars, which are usually cheaper
bought than made, should be seven
feet in length, and bound round with
leather for about eight inches where
they rest in the oar-locks. A light
paddle about nine feet in length is
also necessary, for paddling when
standing up, or for pushing in shoal
through brush. The oars should

BOATS AND BOAT-BUILDING. 87

be free in the oar-locks, not pinned or hinged to
them. Nothing about a boat looks more “green”
or old-fashioned to me than to see an oar
pivoted to a long iron pin which sticks up from
the side of the boat, and is continually catching
upon weeds and brush, and yet I know several
first-class duck-hunters, in other respects, who
use them.

To run easiest, excepting when very heavily
loaded, the boat should be so trimmed * that the
bottom at the bow shall be slightly out of water ;
then, instead of ploughing through, it will glide
smoothly over the surface.

A very good style of paddle boat for small
streams and ponds may be cheaply and very quickly
made as follows: The bottom of inch pine is
first got out in shape, thirteen feet long and
twenty-five inches wide at centre, tapering in an
easy curve to each end, both ends alike. To
the bottom are securely fastened, at right angles,
equidistant from each end, and six feet apart,
two braces of pine, one and a half inches thick
and nine inches in height; at the under side,
equal in length to width of bottem where they

* Loaded in such a way.

88 EQUIPMENT.

join, and at the top flared five inches on each end.
The stem and stern-post are now nailed in
position, at angles of about sixty degrees, and
the proper rake (about an inch and a half)
being given to the bottom (by moving its sup-
ports either way), its edges are bevelled all
round to fit the sides; the side-boards, one inch
thick, also of pine, are bent round and nailed
in place. The lower edges are now planed
smooth with bottom; the upper ones cut to the
proper height; the braces hollowed considerably
on their upper edges to save weight, and after
painting the boat is ready for use as soon as
dry. No provision is made for rowing, but the
boat is propelled by pushing or paddling from a
kneeling or sitting position.

This boat is particularly suitable for teal, wood-
duck, and mallard shooting in the fall, but is not
large enough to carry many decoys, and it takes
in water so easily when fastened in a blind broad
side to a good breeze, that it is unfit to use for
canvas-backs, or, in fact, for spring shooting of any
kind in open water. The novice may find it
rather unsteady to shoot from at first, but that
is due rather to his mismanagement than any fault
of the boat. One accustomed to small boats need

BOATS AND BOAT-BUILDING. 89

have no fear of using it on reasonably smooth
waters.

It sometimes happens that boards of sufficient
width to build a boat, as at first described, can-
not be easily procured. In such a case, strips of
weather-boarding, or “siding,” as it is called out
West, may be made to take their place. The
operation of building is then quite different. The
first thing to be done is to prepare the bottom,
and fasten the principal ribs, bulkheads, stem,
and stern-post in position; then the siding is put
on, commencing at the bottom in lap-streaks, cop-
per or clout nails being used to fasten the laps,
and the remaining ribs and seats afterwards added.

The sculling-float mentioned in the chapter on
wild-goose shooting is rarely used in the pursuit of
ducks where they are to be found in any consider-
able numbers. So much time is lost in the neces-
sarily slow approaches, that more ducks are usually
to be killed with less labor and more sport in
some other way. But where wild fowl are scarce
or appear only occasionally, the case is different.
Time is then of less importance, as one or two
favorable shots are, perhaps, all that can be rea-
sonably expected during the day, and these can be
obtained with most certainty by use of the scull-

90 EQUIPMENT.

ing-float, provided, of course, the sportsman
thoroughly understands the methods of operating
it. This, however, requires a much greater expe-
rience than many of my readers may suppose,
and even the operation of sculling whilst lying
upon the back will be found exceedingly laborious
and awkward to the beginner. The operation of
building the sculling-float is so similar to that
already described for other boats, that I will not
weary my readers with a repetition of details.
Its dimensions are as follows:

Length over all, eleven feet six inches.

Length on bottom, ten feet seven inches.

Width, five feet from stern, on top, three feet
two inches.

Width, five feet from stern, on bottom, two feet
three inches.

Width, at stern, top, two feet three inches.

Width, at stern, bottom, one foot nine inches.

Depth, one foot one inch, or thirteen inches.

Slant of stern, three inches.

At eighteen inches from stern-end the bottom
rises quickly toward the stern to the height of
one and a half inches, and a scag of inch oak is
put on along the centre of this slant, running on
its under edge in line to meet the bottom where

BOATS AND BOAT-BUILDING. 91

the quick rise commences. The object of this rise
is to prevent dragging water, and making too
rough a wake, which might alarm the game. The
scag helps to keep the boat’s course steady and
direct. The bow is covered, to a distance of four
feet six inches back from the stem, with a
wash-board of quarter-inch pine, which also extends
six inches in width around the sides to the stern
to prevent shipping water in rough weather. The
sculling-hole; which should be lined with leather
to deaden any noise which might otherwise be
produced by sculling, is placed six inches to lar-
board of centre of stern, and seven inches above
the bottom. <A plug of wood fitting water-tight
is to be kept in the hole when not being used.
Provision should also be made for rowing when
desired.

It is always advisable, when it can be done
conveniently, to pull your boat up and turn it
over on the bank when you come in to camp
at night, otherwise in the morning you may find
it coated on the inside with a thick white frost;
or, if it has stormed during the night, partly
full of rain or snow. If not pulled up, it should
at least be fastened in some way to prevent its

92 EQUIPMENT,

floating off in case the river should rise during the
night.

A large sponge, such as is commonly used for
washing carriages, should always be kept in the
boat, to dry it if necessary, or to wash away
stains of blood.

CHAPTER V.

DOGS.

A warter-reTrigver is described by many of our
best sporting authors as a cross-bred dog. All
agree that strong powers of endurance, an un-
wearied, persevering disposition, speed in swim-
ming, nose, and an acute readiness of apprehen-
sion are the essential qualities to be sought for.
But as regards the particular breed or cross com-
bining most perfectly these manifold require-
ments, their ideas differ widely. For my own
part, 1 have had no experience in the breeding
of dogs, and consequently do not consider myself
capable of expressing a decided opinion. 1 have
seen superior retrievers of various breeds, and to
me it seemed their exceptional excellence de
pended more upon their individual love of the
sport, and their great experience, than upon any
peculiar characteristic of their breed; and their

willingness to undergo hardship and fatigue was
98

94 EQUIPMENT.

to be attributed not so much to their actual
powers of endurance as to their ardent love for
retrieving, the charms of which outweighed all
their antipathies.

I am satisfied, from my own experience, that a
hardy, well-bred setter is as useful as any other
need be for retrieving-in Western waters. By well-
bred I do not mean the silky, thin-haired, nar-
row-chested, and slab-sided animal so fashionable
nowadays; but a long, thick coated, deep-chested,
round-ribbed, and broad loined dog, capable as
well as willing to do hard work. Such a one, if
rightly taught and properly managed, will never
refuse to go where any dog should be sent; and
very few cripples will ever escape his untiring
activity and perseverance. The fact of his excel-
ling in the pursuit of other game cannot detract
from his usefulness as a retriever, but, on the
contrary, is a positive advantage, as his increased
experience with his master’s habits of hunting
cannot fail.to make him understand more fully
the duties required of him; and certainly thus
securing in one dog the usefulness of two must
prove a decided gain. Liver or liver-and-white
is the best color for concealment; black or white

is too conspicuous, and may alarm the ducks.

Dogs. 95

You can hardly begin too early to teach your
dog. He should, first, after learning his name,
be taught to drop, whether by your side or at
a distance, instantly, at the word or signal of
hand, and to lie quietly until permitted to rise
again. Do not allow him to rush out on the re-
port of the gun to recover game, but make him
wait until ordered to do so. Observe Markham’s
advice on the subject, a thorough sportsman and
writer, whose book, “Hunger’s Prevention,” was
published in the year 1655: “But by all meanes
you must have your Dogge in such true obedi-
ence, that hee may not stirre from your heeles or
let so much as his shaddow be perceived, till
you have shot and yourselfe bid him goe, for to
rush forth too suddenly or upon the first fire or
clap of the Snaphaunce, though the piece goe not
off (as many mad-headed currs will doe), is many
times the loss of much good sport; which to
avoyd suffer not your Dogge to stirre till you
bid him.”

It is frequently unnecessary to gather your
dead birds as soon as killed, especially in still,
shallow water, when it is better to allow them to
remain until the shooting slackens or is nearly

over, as the continual going and coming of the

96 EQUIPMENT.

dog will certainly alarm many ducks that other-
wise might have “come in” fearlessly. Cripples,
however, should always be secured as soon as pos-
sible, and this an old, well-experienced dog will
generally do without waiting for orders; often
dashing out before the bird has struck the water,
knowing full as well as its master, from its man-
ner of falling, whether the bird is dead or not,
and in such a case it would certainly be folly to
detain him. It is really wonderful how soon a
dog, if ‘properly taught, will learn to understand
his duties, and it would almost seem to compre-
hend the reasons for them. I have seen old dogs
who were so fully up to their business that they
scarcely needed speaking to the whole day, taking
unordered a position where they would be screened
from sight of the ducks, remaining motionless
when they were approaching, and fetching cripples
as soon as possible, though leaving dead ducks
seemingly unnoticed until ordered to retrieve
them. Such a dog, 1 hardly need say, is inval-
uable, and never to be found, unless having had
-great experience with a suitable and competent
master.

When teaching your dog to fetch, insist that
he shall deliver into your hand. If taught to

dogs. 97

bring to your feet, when retrieving game he may
release cripples where they will be enabled to
escape, or at least cause unnecessary trouble to
again secure.

Duck-dogs are usually rather hard-mouthed,
being frequently obliged to grip tightly to pre-
vent cripples from escaping; as ducks, I think,
are more inclined than land fowl to struggle
when captured, besides being considerably stronger
and heavy to carry. My own dog, which |
trained from a pup and made my almost con-
stant companion, I taught to bring wounded birds
tenderly in the following way:

One day, as he happened to be amusing himself
gnawing splinters from the round of my chair, a
kind of diversion he appeared to be particularly
delighted with, I told him to quit, at the same
time tapping him slightly on the nose with a small
stick which I happened to have in my hand. He
stopped, but presently commenced again. It im-
mediately occurred to me that here was a splendid
opportunity for teaching him the meaning of a
command which it might be well for him to under-
stand thereafter. So saying to him, “ Don’t bite
it,” I tapped him again. He of course stopped,
not because I told him to, but to wonder at the

98 EQUIPMENT,

cause of the rapping. On his beginning again, |
would command and rap him as before, always
giving the command (the same one every time)
just before the rap, until, associating the command
with the rap to come afterwards and his biting
together, he soon learned to stop on hearing it in
time to escape the punishment. [I persevered in
this way, sometimes giving him food and restrain-
ing him by this command from eating it, until at
the end of two weeks (I had. previously taught
him to fetch) he would bring to me from a dis-
tance pieces of meat or bread without attempting
to eat them unless permitted. The first crippled
bird he ever retriéved (a wing-tipped pigeon) he
carried over two hundred yards, delivering it into
my hand without apparently hurting it in the
least, and on his first day’s experience with game
he retrieved for me in the best manner thirty-
seven ducks, mainly mallards.

Accustom your dog to retrieve from the water
in the summer-time. If you commence to teach
him in water too cold, he will learn to dread it;
but, if a love for the sport be instilled into him
before he learns to fear it, he will never re-
fuse to retrieve, no matter what the temperature
may be.

Dogs. 99

Frequently throw the object to be retrieved
unobserved by him to a distance, or hide it in
some easily accessible place; then encourage him
to search for it, and, when needful, indicate its
direction by a wave of the hand and arm.
Throwing it over a fence or house, so that he
may observe its direction, but not be able to see
where it strikes, is also good practice. Let his
lessons be short, yet frequent, remembering the
more thoroughly these early lessons are learned,
the more useful he will prove in after-life.

He should be taught to come to heel when
ordered, and to remain there until permitted to
go on, and should never be allowed to chase
rabbits; otherwise when he is required for retriev-
ing he may be having a little hunt on his own
account,

Never whip your dog unless you are satisfied
he understands what it is for, and let it be as
soon after the committing of the fault as possible.
Do not go at it in a merciless, inhuman manner,
simply to vent your passion on the poor animal,
who perhaps misunderstood your orders; and, in-
stead of kicking or clubbing him, thereby possibly
breaking a bone or otherwise seriously injuring
him, use a whip or switch, which will sting suffi-

100 EQUIPMENT.

ciently without bruising. Two or three strokes,
rating him at the same time, are better than a
dozen (or, as some do, “lick” till their arin is
tired), for with too much punishment the dog
forgets the fault in his desire to escape.

CHAPTER VI.
CAMPING OUT.

As a rule, the best shooting is not to be had
near good hotel accommodations; consequently, if
the sportsman would enjoy it, he is often com-
pelled to sacrifice a few creature comforts, and
be contented for a time with perhaps less desir-
able quarters. By many, however, possessed of
hardy, vigorous constitutions and a keen love of
the sport, this very opportunity for getting away
from the trammels of society to the unreserve
and freedom of the hunter’s camp is often con-
sidered as even a greater enticement than the
increased quantities of game.

I am satisfied but comparatively little is known
by many sportsmen concerning the daily routine
and business of camp-life, and much unnecessary
labor and trouble is therefore undergone during
their first experiences. A great deal of useless

luggage is often taken, while much that should
101

102 EQUIPMENT.

be taken is overlooked or forgotten. I will, there-
fore, for the benefit of such of my readers as may
be in want of it, venture to offer a few plain
suggestions, trusting they may be turned to good

account.

Camping Out.

For from two to four persons and cook (full as
many as are desirable on a ducking expedition), a
regular house-shaped tent, about nine by twelve
feet on the ground, with a perpendicular wall of
about three feet in height, is as convenient as any.
This may be made of sail-duck as most durable,

CAMPING OUT. 1038

but good heavy “drilling” will be found full as
warm and impervious to rain, besides being much
lighter for transportation, and, with proper care, it
will last two or three years. A new tent should
be well wet before using, or the first heavy shower
may beat through, causing, perhaps, some incon-
venience. As a further precaution against rain, a
fly, as it is called, should be provided. This is
simply a sheet of light cloth sufficiently large to
completely cover the roof of the tent, which, how-
ever, it should not touch, excepting at the ridge-
pole, but should be drawn high enough at the
eaves to leave a space of three or four inches
between it and the tent. This breaks the force
of the storm. Be careful not to touch the in-
side of the roof during a heavy rain-storm, espe-
cially if the tent has no fly, for the water will
gather and run through wherever the tent may
be touched, when otherwise it would run down
outside.

Always pitch your tent on as high ground as con-
venient, on a little knoll, if possible, with the ground:
slanting slightly on all sides, so that water may
not run into it. Without this precaution it is
often necessary to dig a little ditch around the
tent to conduct the water off; but, if the tent is

104 EQUIPMENT.

pitched in a hollow or depression, even this is often
of no avail, for as soon as’ the ditch is filled
the water begins to come in, while cheerfulness
and comfort depart. Never select a camping-
place under large trees. They may fall down
and perhaps kill some one, or cause other serious
damage. Rather choose a situation amongst low,
dense bushes or brush, which will shield the tent
from heavy winds, and always pitch your tent with
the open end towards the south. If near the river,
see that the ground is sufficiently high to prevent
inundation in case the water should rise.

Instead of cutting new poles and stakes when-
ever a change of camp is made, I would advise-
the providing of a permanent set, to be removed
with the tent. They save a great deal of unneces-
sary labor, the tent sits better, and there is al-
ways plenty of room for them on boat expeditions.

Very few parties start out nowadays without
the luxury of a camp-stove, and no one that I ever
heard of, haying tried it thoroughly, ever cared
to give it up and go back to the old log-fire
again, especially during cold or rainy weather.
They may be made in a variety of ways, several
of which I have tried, and the following plan I
consider best answers my requirements:

CAMPING OUT. 105

Camp-Stove.

Material, sheet-iron; length, 2 feet; breadth, 14
inches; height, 15 inches; oven, 10 inches square
by width of stove, set in 2 inches in front of
back end, and 3 inches below top of stove, thus
leaving a flue of 2 inches deep underneath. At a,
a partition formed of two thicknesses of heavy
sheet-iron is riveted strongly to sides and _bot-
tom, 2} inches in front of oven and equal to it
in‘height; in front of this is the fire-box. The
kettle-holes are }, 73 inches, and ¢, 62 inches, in
diameter; each strengthened around the edges by
cast-iron rims or wiring, and provided with mov-
able sheet-iron covers, which should be saucer-
shaped, to prevent irregular warping. The damper
is represented at d, and extends across the stove ;
by turning it either way the flames are made to

travel over or under the oven, as may be desired.

106 EQUIPMENT,

A brace, e, of thin wrought-iron to strengthen the
top of the stove and to prevent its warping, is
firmly fastened on the inside across the top and
part way down each side. Around the stope-pipe
hole should be a rim of sheet-iron, upon which the
pipe is fitted. Pipe, 84 inches in diameter, made
in tapering sections, which telescope together for
transportation. When in use, the pipe should not
be allowed to touch the tent, but a loose tin collar
should surround it where it passes through, and
be sewed in position to the cloth. The draught is
regulated commonly by slide-gates, but various
methods may be employed. Cost of stove com-
plete, about $10 to $12. “For cooking uten-
sils: 1 frying-pan, 2 tin kettles, 1 coffee-pot, 2
sheet-iron baking-pans, 1 bread-pan, 1 dish-pan,
and a large iron spoon are needed.

For a table, if you can procure a box such
as is used for packing large plate-glass in, you
will be suited to a nicety. Have the top planed
smoothly, and set it up on legs to the proper
height, then between the two sides of the box
you may stow away your dishes when not in use.
A tin cup, knife, fork, and spoon are, of course,
needed for each person, besides a few extra plates and
pans to use in cooking and upon which to serve food.

CAMPING OUT. 107

If you are out only for a few days or whilst
travelling, it may be better to sleep on the
ground than to go to the trouble of making a
bed; but let me assure you, if you are located
for any length of time, you will find a bed much
more neat and comfortable. All you. need to
carry besides your ordinary bed-clothes is a
common bed-cord, and the labor of building the
bed is almost inconsiderable. Four stakes, three
to four inches thick and about four feet long,
are cut from the neighboring trees, and driven
firmly and to equal depth into the ground, in
the angles of the parallelogram the bed is to
occupy ; six feet in length by four and a half in
breadth, being proper for two ordinary persons.
Two other strong poles are next cut the in-
tended length of the bed, and fastened, one- on
each side, about six inches below, and connect-
ing the tops of the stakes. Each stake being
strongly braced to prevent its springing in side-
_ wise, the cord is wound tightly around and
across, from one side pole to the other, the
entire length of the bed, the turns of the line
being about four inches apart. Other poles are
now cut and fastened in position for side, head,
and foot boards; the cording covered with a

108 EQUIPMENT.

rubber blanket or spare quilt; leaves, weeds, flags,
corn-husks, hay, or straw (as may be most con-
venient) piled on to the desired depth; the re-
maining quilts and blankets laid on smoothly,
and, with the exception of the pillows, the bed
is complete. These last may be composed of
old boots, coats, empty boxes, powder-kegs, or
possibly feathers, if the party has killed and
picked game enough. Grape-vines may be used
instead of the cord, if it cannot be easily pro-
cured, and, barring extra trouble in building,
answer full as well.

Under the bed you may store your spare
ammunition, clothes boxes or bags, and such
sundry articles as are not needed for every-day
use.

Two large chests should be made for ammuni-
tion, provisions, etc., and a third—or, what is quite
as good, a stout waterproof bag—for clothes and
sundries. The boxes should be made of pine, and
of dimensions proportioned to the wants of the
party.

The quantity of provisions to be taken will of
course depend upon the number of persons to be
provided for, and the intended duration of the trip;
also, upon whether it will be convenient to procure

CAMPING OUT. 109

more at any time upon the way or not. The habits
and tastes of those who are to use them will, of
course, determine their variety. Old hands at the
business always learn to do without many luxu-
ries, rather preferring hearty, nutritious food with
hunger for their only sauce; and the more experience
they have the less they are inclined to bother
themselves with variety. The usual provisions
carried by the market hunters are as follows:
flour, corn-meal, pork, beans, coffee, sugar, salt,
pepper, baking-powder, molasses, and onions, if
procurable; to these, or such of them as he
wishes, the novice may add what luxuries he may
think pruper—the fewer the better; and a good
supply of matches, as well as soap, towels, gun-
rags, and oil for lanterns must not be forgotten.

For tools, a saw, axe, and auger should be car-
ried; a few nails, too, often come handy, and
may be needed to mend a wrecked or leaky boat.
A fish-line, with a few assorted hooks, might help
to procure a change of diet, and should not be
neglected. An old powder-keg, with the head taken
out and fitted with a rope-handle, makes an -ad-
mirable pail; and, if sawed in two, the bottom
makes an excellent basin in which to wash the

hands and face.

CHAPTER VII.

MISCELLANEOUS HINTS.

Clothing.—The color of the wild-fowler’s dress
should, as nearly as possible, be that of his natural
surroundings, ur, at least, be of some dull, neutral
tint unlikely to attract particular attention; for, if
it contrast too strongly with its background, any
slight movement of the shooter will be likely
to be instantly detected by his game, and his
immediate locality afterwards carefully avoided.

In the fall, when the leaves and weeds are turn-
ing yellow, a light-brown or yellowish-drab will be
found as good as any; whilst in spring, when the
trees are more devoid of foliage, a suit of “ pep-
per-and-salt” cloth is better, being less readily dis-
tinguished from an old log or stump. For tim-
ber or overflowed-prairie shooting, the “ pepper-
and-salt” is particularly recommended. Remem-
ber, too, ducks appear to apprehend danger more
from the very dark colors than from the lighter

ones,
110

MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 111

Due regard should be paid to the temperature
of the climate and seasons. In August or early
September, a thir linen coat with large pockets
for game and ammunition is the proper thing;
while, as the weather grows colder, something
thicker must take its place. And in winter and
the colder fall and spring months flannels should
be worn next the body throughout. The “ pep-
per-and-salt” cloth before mentioned for outside
wear will be found warm, durable, cheap, and
“for sale everywhere.” For very cold weather
an English guernsey is one of the best things
possible. With a good coat outside, a person
can stand almost any needed exposure; and, being
flexible and easy, though close-fitting, this does not
interfere with free movements of the arms and
body.

Thick woollen gloves are preferable in cold wea-
ther to any others. If by accident they become
wet, wring them out dry as possible, and they
will be nearly as warm as before. In case
of necessity an old shot-sack drawn over the
hand will be found quite serviceable, especially
when picking up decoys or while paddling when
the handle of the paddle may be wet or cov-
ered with ice.

112 EQUIPMENT.

Do not let false pride induce you to buy close-
fitting rubber-boots. They are intolerable in hot
weather, and on very cold days you may wish
.to wear two pairs of stockings, which would then :
be impossible. Neither have them of too large
a size, but choose a happy medium; for, if too
large, they will soon crack across the wrinkles,
and are then worthless.

A waterproof coat should always be carried in
the boat in anticipation of rain, especially if hunt-
ing deep-water ducks, for during a shower they fre-
quently fly much better than at any other time.

The Ammunition-Box.—When shooting from
a boat with a breech-loader, an ammunition -box
should be carried, to contain the cartridges and
other ammunition, and to prevent their getting
wet, as may frequently happen in a leaky boat
or during rainy weather if no such provision is
made. It should be made of wood or tin, water-
proof, and large enough to hold cartridges suffi-
cient for a good day’s sport, with loading-tools
and loose ammunition sufficient to refill the empty
shells during the day if desired. It should be
divided into two or three compartments for keep-
ing separate the cartridges and other articles,
and be provided with a hasp-lock, and leather

MISCELLANEOUS HINTS, 118

strap on the side to serve as a handle for car-

rying. My own, of three-eighths inch pine, strongly
dovetailed together, in which I usually carry 180
short 10-bore shells, loading-tools, three pounds of
powder, half a sack of shot, and wads and caps

[ (i \
i

The Ammunition-Box.

to match, is 15 inches long, 12 inches wide,
and 5 inches deep, and is divided into three
compartments, as in the small foregoing sketch.
The powder-canister is of tin, square, and made
to fit in proper place. The loading-tools, all that
are necessary with Sturtevant shells, are: a rod
for pushing down wads, pressing on and ejecting

114 EQUIPMENT.

caps; a tapered metallic tube through which (to
insure them a level position and to prevent their
edges from being injured) the wads are pushed
into the shell; and a short piece of inch pine
plank, bored partly through with sixteen holes, to
receive the bases of the shells and to hold them
erect for loading.

Oil for Locks, etc—No vegetable oil should
ever be. used upon gun-locks; it is liable to
gum, and thus interfere with their free working.
Porpoise oil or refined sperm are the best for
the purpose, and but very little is required.
Porpoise oil 1s the kind generally used by gun-
makers. To prevent rust, almost any kind of
animal or fish oil free from suet is good; and
for the stock, linseed-oil well rubbed in gives
a nice polish, and will prevent water from pene-
trating. Caked dirt or a slight rust may be easily
removed from the interior of a barrel by scouring
with wet wood-ashes.

Powder—In the West it is customary to use
a much finer-grained powder for duck-shooting
than is employed by the sea-coast shooters; but
this I consider due more to habit than because
any better results can be obtained from it; in fact,
of two of the best duck-shooters of my acquaint-

MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 115

ance, one uses F.F.G., very fine, and the other
No. 1, exceedingly coarse. Neither can be per-
suaded to use anything different, and both kill,
it seems to me, equally far. For my own part,
1 am not so particular concerning the size of
grain, if it is only uniform and even; but where
I commence the season’s shooting with a certain
size, I dislike to change to another. F.F.G. is
certainly fine enough for any one, and F.F.F.G.
unfit for use in a shot-gun.

For cleanness, strength, and evenness of grain,,
no, powder can, in my opinion, excel that manu-
factured by the Oriental Company, of Boston. I
have used many kegs of various kinds, and pre-
fer this to all others. When I finished shooting,
last spring, having been using Oriental powder,
though my gun had not been cleaned for nearly
three weeks, and had been fired almost every
day, and on several days over one hundred times,
it was scarcely perceptibly foul, and might, to all
appearances, have been fired as many times more
without detriment to its shooting or inconvenience
in loading. The strength was equally extraordi-
nary. My partner (who probably has killed as
many ducks as almost any man in the West)
used to remark almost daily: “This is the best

116 EQUIPMENT.

powder I ever shot, I really believe.” These per-
haps rather partial statements are in no wise in-
fluenced by any desire to favor one person or
firm more than another, but are given simply for
the benefit of such of my sporting friends as are
continually asking, “ What powder do you use?”

Minute exactness is often necessary in measur-
ing rifle charges, and the Troy standard has there-
fore been adopted, while charges for shot-guns
not requiring this particular nicety are weighed
by the avoirdupois scale. This being the case,
many persons, not being acquainted with the rela-
tions which the two standards bear to each other,
are at a loss to properly compare them. To aid
such I append the following:

One pound avoirdupois contains 7,000 grains.

6c “ troy “ 5,760 6c
“ ounce avoirdupois « 4374 «
cc 73 troy “ 480 ce
“« drachm avoirdupois 6 Qh «

The pound, ounce, and grain, apothecary, are
the same as those of the troy standard.

Shot.—It would prove of great convenience to
sportsmen, especially in comparing the shooting of
different guns, if shot could be made of uniform
weights and sizes throughout the country; and

MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 117

with this object in view a committee were ap-
pointed by the New York State Sportsmen’s
Convention, held at Niagara Falls, to determine
upon a suitable scale, and submit it for adoption
to the various makers. This was done, and
though their scale was accepted and the shot
numbered accordingly by several leading manu-
facturers, yet the number of pellets contained
in the ounce of their several makes was found
to vary widely, which fact has given rise to
much heated discussion. To me uniformity seems
practically an impossibility; for lead taken from
the same mine, and worked as nearly as may
be in the same manner, will frequently be
found to vary somewhat in density, owing to
several reasons—it may be to a slight change in
the degree of heat applied in some part of its
reduction or refining, or, possibly, to some pecu-
liar condition of the atmosphere. Then again,
as the shot are sifted or assorted, the pellets
which remain in a certain colander cannot be
of precisely the same size, and consequently the
numbers contained in separate ounces of the
same manufacture may also, and do, vary. For
instance, a No. 5 shot, which, according to the
scale, should be 42, of an inch in diameter, is,

118 EQUIPMENT.

in fact, any shot sufficiently small to pass
through a circular hole #3, of an inch in diam-
eter, and yet too large to pass through a
similar 12, hole. The following tables, show-
ing the average number of pellets to the ounce
of the various sizes, as now made by the leading
manufacturers, may prove of utility to sportsmen ;

T. O. Leroy & Co., N. Y. Tatuam & Bros., N. Y.

tnohes. Sze. «PENG inohess «= Sze, BES
Pos TT 32 is FF 24
Yoo T 38 tis F a7
a BBB 44 fos TT 31
dis BB 49 Fos T 36
WY B 58 ia 2BBB 42
7 1 69 vs BB 50
tis 2 82 dds B 59
dis 3 98 vfs 1 val
Hes 4 121 ais 2 86
dbs 5 149 doy 3 106
dds 6 209 abs 4 132
aes 7 278 Wa 5 168
aio 8 875 tidy 6 218
rhs 9 560 Tes 7 291
rho 10 822 tio 8 399
ris 1 982 th 9 568
rhs 12 1778 10 848

cay
ge
2
25

MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 119

Sr. Louis SHot Tower Co. Cnuicaco SHot TowEr Co.

size ne a ng
000 33 Bis 0000 22
00 39 Pos 000 27
0 46 Ply 00 38
BBB 51 Bs 0 38
BB 60 7% BBB 46
B 71 hfs BB 53
1 90 Ws B 62
2 100 ahs 1 vii}
8 118 ats 2 92
4 159 his 3 118
5 237 ais 4 146
6 299 ats 5 172
7 385 fifi 6 216
8 509 Wes v4 323
9 700 tiv 8 434
10 1103 rey 9 596
oh 10 854
tiv 11 1414

2400

4

on

od
e
cw)

120 EQUIPMENT.

Waker & Parwer (Enezisn 8x07).

Size. Pellets to oz.

AA 40
50

re
Eo pwaaankrerver py bp
WwW
a
oo
a

. LG BE
MG 8}
Ker i
ss@ 15

SSSG 17

MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 121

Antidotes for Bite of Rattlesnake and Poison-
ing by Strychnine—lIt is not an uncommon oc-
currence in certain sections of the Western coun-
try for dogs and even men to be bitten by rat-
tlesnakes. The best remedy in such. cases (which
if neglected usually prove fatal) is whiskey, taken
internally as soon as possible, and in sufficient
quantity to produce intoxication, manifestations of
which may be considered as certain evidence that
the action of the venom is neutralized and _ the
patient cured. For a dog, a pint will in most
cases be needed, and a man may take fully a
quart before showing signs of its effects, so pow-
erful is the controlling influence to be first sub-
dued in the venom.

For cases of poisoning by strychnine, liquefied
lard should be given immediately in large quanti-
ties.

Pocket Compass, Wood-Craft, ete-—A pocket
compass is a very essential article of the duck-
shooter’s outfit; without it, on dark, lowery days,
he may easily lose his way in the tortuous and
intricate windings amongst the tangled weeds and
bushes of the swamp, and perhaps experience con-
siderable trouble and uneasiness before finding it

again.’ In the woods, a man who is versed in

122 EQUIPMENT.

wood-craft has many things to guide him. The
moss which grows upon the trees he knows is
partial to the shade, and therefore always thick-
est on the north side; on the warm and sunny
side of the tree (the south) he knows the branches
are most frequently the largest, and his course
‘is governed accordingly. In the swamp, he may
be sometimes guided by the direction of the
wind; but this is at best a ‘fickle resource,. for,
should it change, it might lead him in a direc-
tion contrary to that desired. Perhaps the water
may flow slowly through the swamp, and _ this
may be sufficient to guide him; but it is often-
er stagnant, and then affords no clue. ‘To be
on the safe side, carry a compass.

You may determine from which side the wind
‘comes, even when the air is seemingly still, by
holding above your head your wet finger, which
you have previously held in your mouth until
warm; it will be plainly felt to cool first on
the windward side.

Cracked Hands.—Duck-shooters are frequently
troubled with chapped and cracked hands; the
alkaline deposits of burned powder, and the con-
tinual wetting of the hands whilst picking up
game and decoys, rendering such a condition in

MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 123

cold weather,” without constant and particular
care, almost inevitable. As a precautionary
remedy, diluted vinegar is, I think, as good as
any ; for by its peculiar acid action the harm-
ful properties of the alkali are neutralized. The
skin should also be .kept soft and pliable by
frequent applications of glycerine, camphor-ice, or
tallow, particularly just before going to bed.

: Rheumatism.—The wild-fowler is often liable
to get wet from being caught without proper
protection in a heavy rain-storm or otherwise,
when acute rheumatism or a severe coid may
follow, in anticipation of which, and to prevent
such undesirable consequences, liquor, such as
whiskey or brandy, should be carried and taken
internally when necessary, but should never be
resorted to at any other time. 1 am sorry to
record it, but it is a fact, that many -parties start
out from home on a camping expedition with
the ostensible purpose of shooting ducks, when
in reality an opportunity for unrestrained whis-
key-drinking is their main object. I once hap-
pened to call at a camp where four fellows
were “roughing it” for a few days. Seeing no
one outside the tent, I ventured to look in.
Lying on a lot of straw, which was scattered

124 EQUIPMENT,

about the floor fully a foot in depth, were all
four, drunk and sleeping soundly. By some of
their restless, unconscious motions the straw had
been pushed against the hot stove, and when I
looked in had already commenced blazing. I of
course extinguished it as soon as possible, and
awoke them. Had I not providentially chanced to
call as I did, some one of the party, if not all,
would in all probability have been fatally burned,
for all were too stupefied to save themselves,

As a local remedy for acute muscular rheu-
matism, a mustard-plaster placed immediately
upon the part affected will, in most cases, soon
prove effectual. If the white of an egg be mixed
with the plaster, no blistering will ensue.

Ague.—Never start out to shoot in the morn-
ing with an empty stomach. Eat something, if
it be no more than a cracker; you will be less
liable to be attacked by ague. Be careful, also,
to avoid drinking warm slough water. Different
remedies are required by different persons to
cure ague;, as for myself, I have so far got
along without requiring any, never having ex-

perienced a touch of “the shakes.”

CHAPTER VIII.
MORNING MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL.

The Mallard (Anas bosehas).—Adult Male:
Bill about the length of the head, higher than
broad at the base, depressed and widened toward
the end, rounded at the tip. Upper mandible
with the dorsal outline sloping and a little con-
cave; the ridge at the base broad and flat, to-
ward the end broadly convex, as are the sides;
the edges soft and rather obtuse; the marginal
lamellee transverse, fifty on each; the ungius
oval, curved, abrupt at the end. Nasal groove
elliptical, sub-basal, filled by the soft membrane
of the bill; nostrils sub-basal, placed near the
ridge, longitudinal, elliptical, pervious. Lower
mandible slightly curved upward, with the angle
very long, narrow, and rather pointed, the lamel-
ia about sixty.

Head of moderate size, oblong, compressed.
Neck rather Jong and slender. Body full, de-

pressed. Feet short, stout, placed a little behind
125

126 GAME—SHOAL-WAT£R FOWL.

the centre of the body. Legs bare a little above
the joint; tarsus short, a little compressed, an-
teriorly with scutella, laterally and behind with
small reticulated scales. Hind toe extremely
small, with a very narrow membrane; third toe
longest, fourth a little shorter, but longer
than the second; all the toes connected by reti-
culated membranes, the outer with a thick mar-
gin, the inner with the margin extended into a
slightly-lobed web. Claws small, arched, com-
pressed, rather acute; that of the middle
toe much larger, with a dilated, thin, inner
edge.

Plumage dense, soft, elastic; of the head and
neck, short, blended, and splendent; of the other
parts in general, broad and rounded. Wings of
moderate length, acute; primaries narrow and
tapering; the second longest, the first very little
shorter: secondaries broad, curved inward, the
inner elongated and tapering. Tail short, much
rounded, of sixteen acute feathers, of which the
four central are recurved.

Bill greenish-yellow. Iris dark-brown. Feet
orange-red. Head and upper part of neck deep
green, a ring of white about the middle of the
neck; lower part anteriorly, and fore-part of

MORNING MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 127

breast, dark brownish-chestnut; fore-part of back
light yellowish-brown, tinged with gray; the rest
of the back brownish-black; the rump _ black,
splendent, with green and purplish-blue reflections,
as are the recurved tail feathers. Upper surface
of wings grayish-brown; the scapulars lighter,
except their inner webs, and with the anterior
dorsal feathers minutely undulated with brown.
The speculum, or beauty spot, on about ten of
the secondaries, is of brilliant changing purple and
“green, edged with velvet black and white, the
anterior bands of black and white being on the
secondary coverts. Breasts, sides, and abdomen
very pale gray, minutely undulated with darker;
lower tail coverts black, with blue reflections.

Length to end of tail, 24 inches; to the end
of the claws, 23; to the tips of the wings, 22;
extent of wings, 36; wing from flexure, 104;
tail, 44; bill, 22; tarsus, 12; middle toe, 2%;
its claw, #5; weight from 24 to 3 Ibs.

Adult Female: Bill black in the middle, dull
orange at the extremities and along the edges.
Iris as in the male, as are the feet. The gene-
ral color of the upper parts is pale yellowish-
brown, streaked and spotted with dusky-brown.
The feathers of the head are narrowly streaked;

128 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL,

of the back with the margin and a central streak
yellowish-brown ; the rest of the scapulars similar,
but with the light streak on the outer web.
The wings are nearly as in the-male; the spe-
culum similar, but with less green. The lower
parts are dull olive, deeper on the lower neck,
and spotted with brown.

Length, 22 inches; weight, from 2 lbs, to 24.

The young acquire the full plumage in the
course of the first winter.

Mallards breed in small numbers in the various
swamps and sloughs of the Western country, but
by far the greater number betake themselves to
the unknown regions of the north, and there,
unmolested, rear their young. The month of
August is hardly over before they again begin to
make their appearance in the more northern of
the Western States, but the shooting of them
cannot be said to have fairly commenced until
about the middle of September. After that time,
and until the freezing of the waters drives them
further south, the numbers killed are sometimes
almost incredible. Their habits vary consider-
ably in the different localities which they fre-
quent, and at different times, and various means
are employed for their capture, the most practi-

MORNING MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 129

cal of which it is my intention to explain as
clearly as possible.

For convenience’ sake, and to ensure a more
thorough description of details, I shall, in the
remainder of this chapter and that immediately
following, adopt the conversational style, address-
ing my remarks to a supposed novice, who is
about to take his first lessons in duck-shooting,
the present time being the evening preceding the
sport; place, hotel near the shooting-grounds.

We must start early in the morning; so get
your gun and ammunition ready, and don’t be
sparing of the latter, for it is much better to
have to bring some back than to leave good
shooting for want of it. Sometimes, when least
expected, a person will find all the ducks he can
reasonably wish for. Chicago sixes or St. Louis
fives are about the shot you need, as at this
season the ducks are not very full feathered, and
the mallard is not over-tenacious.

Load your shells with four drachms of powder.
“Rather a large charge of powder,” you say.
You perhaps have been used to shooting quail
or woodcock, where smaller charges are sufficient,
the shooting always being close.

An ounce of shot is enough; there is no need of

130 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

more. The gun will kick harder and shoot weaker ;
besides, if you.add half an ounce to each of those
cartridges, you will have considerable extra weight
to carry. You can kill as far with the ounce if
you hold right. As we shall probably have to
leave the boat, take along your sack for carrying
shells; you might carry them in your pockets,
but the sack will be handy to hang on a branch
or to lay down while shooting, and it will be
much more comfortable than having the weight
in your pockets. You will need your long rubber
boots, as we shall probably have some wading
to do. But put a pair of slippers in your pockets ;
you can wear them while in the boat, and will find
them much easier than the boots this warm weather.

Breakfast will be ready before daylight, and I
will see to the luncheon; for if we find the
shooting decent, -we shall most likely stay till
dark.

1 am glad to see you wear a hat to shoot in.
A cap I abominate. If it rains, the water is con-
tinually dripping and running down the back of
your neck; and when the sun shines fierce and
hot, it furnishes no shade, as does the hat. Very
often, tov, as a person is taking sight, the rays of
the sun strike one’s eyes, dazzling them, and

. MORNING MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL, 1381

thereby causing a miss. Well, good-nighi; I will
call you in time in the morning.
* * * * * *

Why, here it is after four o’clock. I came very
near oversleeping. I must call my young friend;
but here he is, coming to call me! Good-morn-
ing. You are on hand, sure enough. Suppose you
feel like giving the ducks particular fits to-day.
Well, we’ll see what we can do for them very
soon. The sky promises fair weather, and we
have a cool west wind to refresh us while row-
ing to the shooting-grounds, and which, if it con-
tinues, as I think it will, will make the ducks feel
more like moving about than they might be
inclined to do if it were warmer. Breakfast is
ready, I hear from the dining-room; so let’s go
in and see if we can do it justice. There’s not
a big variety, to be sure, but it’s good stuff to
last and to work on, this corn-bread and duck;
and it isn’t very apt to produce dyspepsia, especi-
ally if one does much rowing, and tramps far in
the muddy bottoms for exercise. It just suits
you, does it? Well, eat heartily, for you may
have work to do, and, as Joe Carroll used to say,
« A man that can’t eat isn’t fit to do much of
anything else.”

132 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

Keep on eating. I am only going out to
eall Jack, the dog, to his breakfast.. Here he
is; what do you think of him? A. pure-bred
setter, you see, and I think as good a retriever
as can be found. -He also understands a thing
or two about quail and chicken shooting, as I may
have an opportunity of showing you before long.
Sportsmen have peculiar fancies regarding retriev-
ers, and among writers one advocates one variety,
another another, and a third again perhaps a cross
between the two; in my opinion, the main requi-
site, second only to’ power of endurance, is simply
this: that the dog should take an especial delight
in retrieving. No man can excel in any pursuit
unless he has a particular liking for it, no matter
how well adapted he may be. So it is with the
dog; no matter what particular breed he may
belong to, if he has no actual love for the sport,
no amount of breaking will make a decent -re-
triever of him. 1 know of a dog to-day, a cross
between a setter and a pointer. He is rather old
now, but four or five years ago a better retriever
for Western duck-shooting was not made. To
look at. him, you would laugh at the idea of his
being a duck dog. He looked more like a fighting
dog, and, in fact, next to retrieving, fighting was

MORNING MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 133

his favorite pastime; and, excepting for this one
purpose, he did not appear desirous of courting
the society of any of his kind. He would weigh
perhaps fifty pounds, smooth haired, very strongly
built, and stood about twenty inches high. It
was almost impossible to tire him out. I have
known him to retrieve mallards all day in run-
ning water for four persons, quite constant shoot-
ing, bringing in over two hundred ducks, and
going for the last ones as readily as for the first.
He returned with a duck as quickly as possible;
never walked or loitered on the way. He could
tell when a duck was struck as well as the
shooter, and would watch it as eagerly to see
if it fell, when he would immediately go after
it, sometimes five or six hundred yards.

I well remember on one occasion I was sail-
ing down the Illinois River with a hunting party,
and passing by “Clear Lake,” a beautiful sheet
of water, saw quite a large flock ot mallards feed-
ing near the shore of the lake. I] seized my gun,
and calling to the dog jumped into a paddle-boat,
paddled ashore, and proceeded to “ bushwhack ”
them. The grass was quite high, and by creeping
low down on all fours I was enabled to get quite near
them. The dog followed close behind me, crouch-

134 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

ing low and watching my every motion. Getting
as near as I wished, I fired both barrels, and suc-
ceeded in stopping thirteen, eight being dead and
five splashing round with wings broken or other-
wise crippled. In went the dog. I ran down to
the watér’s edge, when he brought me out four
of the cripples, passing by the dead ones going
and returning, and not paying any attention to
them (the fifth skulked low down in the water,
and he did not see her). When he had de-
livered the fourth, he started along the lake
shore as fast as he could go. I called and
whistled; he paid no attention to me, but kept
on some hundred and fifty yards or so, and, div-
ing into the grass, appeared with another crippled
duck, which he immediately brought to me. I
had no idea what he could be going after, but
his quick eye had seen the duck fall from the
flock when mine were engaged in another direc-
tion. After his retrieving the dead ones, we re-
turned to the party with ducks enough for sup-
per. I have often had him bring me over a
dozen crippled ducks in a day, while going to and
coming from the ponds—ducks that I had no idea
were near me. He would come across their trail
when they had run up into the woods from the

MORNING MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 185

water, and then follow them up until he found
them hiding in some old brush-pile or under a log.

But let us start. It is only a short distance to
the river. Just take your gun and the lunch-basket,
and I will carry mine and the ammunition.

There, this is our boat; put down the dunnage,
and we'll launch it. Jack, you see, is in his place
in the bow as soon as it is in the water. You
may sit in the stern. Keep your gun handy, and
1 will row; it is not far. What a splendid river
this is for boating, isn’t it? Straight stretches for
miles, and but very little current; the shores, you
see, are quite bare and devoid of weeds, and offer
little inducement for the ducks to light along them.
A stranger who was not well acquainted with the
habits of ducks would little think from the few he
might see along the river what multitudes abound
in this country. There! do you see that flock of
ducks to the right, away beyond those tall trees?
They are mallards, and are now over a favorite
feeding-ground of theirs, called by the local hunters
here the duck or rice pond. It contains perhaps
three hundred acres, water from ten to twenty
inches, and mud ten to twenty feet in depth;
almost the entire surface is covered with the
dense growth of the wild oats or rice, whose

136 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

stalks grow to the height of ten to fifteen feet.
The seeds of this cane are the favorite food of
mallards and other shoal-water ducks in the fall,
and when it grows to any great extent the ducks
are usually quite numerous. This pond is fed
chiefly by springs, and has for its outlet a small,
crooked, shallow stream, call Mud Creek, which
empties into another, known as Crow Creek, the
mouth of which is only a short distance from here,
just where you see that opening in the willows
on the east side of the river, perhaps a quar-
ter of a mile ahead. We will strike in there,
and try a couple of hours’ shooting in the rice-
pond, until the morning flight is over, when we
will go to another place I think rather favorably
of for mid-day shooting. I will explain to you
when we get there why the shooting at that
time of day is better there than in the rice-
pond.

Here we are at the mouth of the creek. It is
not wide enough to admit of rowing, so you may
take an oar and stand in the bow and paddle, or
push against the logs or bank, as you have op-
portunity. 1 will guide the boat with this long
paddle. Come forward to ‘this seat, and sit per-
fectly still while I pass by you. I will look out

MORNING MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 137

for the balance of the boat, so don’t you mind
anything about it. There, that’s good! Two
nervous persons in a boat like this are very
apt to get spilled out if they attempt to pass
each other. Neither will trust the other; so in
passing, if the boat cants either way, both throw
their weights to the opposite side, and, instead of
preventing the accident, it is thereby made certain.
So remember this: let the one who passes keep
the balance. Hark! just listen to the cracking of
the guns in the rice-pond. The poor ducks are
catching it now.

The moon is now in its first quarter, and
the nights being quite dark the ducks remain
later in the morning; but during the full of the
moon, when they can see better, they feed
nearly all night, and are ready to take their
departure out of danger from the hunters much
earlier. 1 have been in places where they were
hunted a great deal, and during the full of the
moon could hardly get a shot in the rice-ponds
until after dusk, when they would come in by
hundreds, and at daylight would leave as suddenly.
After a very dark night they would seem more
anxious to stay a while in the morning, and would
stand considerable banging.

138 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

That fork to the right is the noted stream
“Mud Creek.” You may put down your oar
now, as the current is not quite as rapid as this
we're leaving, and get your gun ready; for in a
few rods the creek widens, and we then come to
the edge of the wild rice, which grows on either
side of the creek, until we come to the pond.
There are always a good many ducks sitting in
the edge of the rice along the creek, and by
moving quietly we can get very close to them
before they take alarm. Sit with the left side
rather more in advance, so that you can shoot
ducks crossing to the right more easily; and
don’t shoot if you have to drop them too far
in the rice, for it will take more time to break
down rice and hunt them up than they are
worth. Wait until you get one over the creek
or close to the edge. We must not waste too
much time here, you know, for it may be more
valuable somewhere else. Now, no more loud
talk for a few moments, until we see if we can’t
get a shot; and remember this last caution: Be
cool; and don’t shoot until you get your gun just
right, for nothing but dead ducks count here
—cripples are of littie use.

Steady ! Well! well! ‘Why didn’t you shoot?

MORNING MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 189

Gun wasn’t cocked, eh? Why, I’ve heard you
cock it fully a dozen times since we struck the
edge of the rice. I guess you must be getting
a trifle excited. Well, it’s to be expected at first,
with so many ducks continually jumping up before
you; but it will soon wear off. The trouble is,
when you took the gun down after sighting at
that wood-duck a moment ago, you let down
the hammers, and forgot to raise them again.
Look out next time, and keep cool; you'll have
lots of chances.

Careful! Well done! That duck was neatly
killed. No one could do better. A young mal-
lard drake! Waited a little too long, didn’t he?
Pick him up as we pass. Always pick up ducks
by the bills or heads, and shake them well be-
fore putting in the boat; their feathers hold a
lot of water, and they look much better and will
keep longer when dry than after lying in the
wet all day. Lay him on his back in the bow,
in front of the dog. I like to keep my ducks’
feathers smooth too, not turned “every which
way.” Look sharp, now; in this bend ahead there
are ducks, Pll warrant. Steady! I thought so!
Well, I guess you a’n’t much of a “slouch”
at shooting, if this is the way you are in the

140 GAME—SHOAL- WATER FOWL.

habit of doing. Two dead that shot! 1 expected
to see you kill the other with the second bar-
rel. She flew straight up the creek. Why didn’t

you try it? The surprise of killing both the
" others with the first barrel took you off your
guard, and you didn’t think of it, I suppose.
But you're doing well enough, any way. It’s.
easier to sit here and tell how than to take
your place and do it any better.

Do you see that low muskrat house there in
the edge of the rice? Well, remember where it
is, and when we come out look out for a shot at
a wood-duck there. You will be almost sure to
find one. They are very fond of sitting on such
places to preen themselves and bask in the sun,
and J have jumped many a one from the same
place. They are feeding now, and it’s only from
about nine o’clock in the morning to three in
the afternoon that they frequent such places,

Mark! Do you see that flock of teal just in
the edge of the rice near those lily-pads ?
Don’t make a motion, and I'll see if I can’t
steal on them behind that point of rice. Now,
watch sharp as we come into view; if they will
wait, give them the first barrel on the water,
and don’t forget the second one this time.

MORNING MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 141

There they go! (Bang! bang!) No, several have
suddenly concluded not to go, 1 should judge;
take my gun and shoot those cripples, if you
can, That’s the way to do it; seven more to
help the pile. A’n’t they pretty little fellows?
And fat, too, as butter. Most delicious eating, as
you'll find to-morrow.

Here we are at the pond. You can’t see
much of it, though, this rice is so high; but we
will land as we come out on this point to our
left, and then by climbing. one of those tall trees
you can have a better view of it. If the pond
was new to me, that would be the first thing I
should do. I could then see where the ducks
were working most, and where the thin, open
patches were in the rice, and, by taking my
bearings properly, could go -directly to them.
My back path, too, would be the most direct
way out. A person who didn’t think of this
might push around for hours without finding
many ducks, and when he did stop he could
not be sure of being in the best place; then if he
could see nothing to determine his direct course
out (which he would have to break anew), he
would be compelled to follow his perhaps long
and circuitous route back. Now, put these little

142 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

hints “to soak,” as they say out here; your suc-
cess hereafter depends chiefly upon them.

We probably won’t scare out any very large
batches of ducks, as some of the other hunters
have come in this way before us; but I think
we will have some pretty good fun for a while,
from the way the other boys are shooting. What
a rattling they keep up! And just look at the
poor mallards trying to find a place to light. They
do hate to leave. Well, we'll take this path where
some one has broken a road for us. I know
where it leads to, and I guess we shall find a
few ducks there. What a squawking they do
keep up everywhere! Now, you see, this mud-
stick or setting-pole,* as we call it, which I have
exchanged the oar for, comes into use? With-
out it we could hardly get along, or at most
very slowly; for the mud is so soft you can
push a paddle almost its length into it, and
it is often harder to pull out than it was to
push in. By putting this on the roots of the
wild rice you have something solid to push
against, and it does not enter the mud deep
enough to stick much. The boat makes such a

* Pole with a forked or widened end to prevent its sinking in mud.
See cit in the chapter on ‘ Boats.”

MORNING MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 143

noise going through the rice you need not ex.
pect to shoot much until we get on a stand; the
ducks hear us too plainly.

Look! what a lot are getting out ahead of us.
. That is where I want to stop. There is an open
place there in the rice for a few rods, and the
rice is rather lower and more thinly scattered
about it; there is a nice thick bunch in the
middle, too, if no one has broken it down, where
we can hide completely. Now you can see it
straight ahead. We will run the boat right into
the middle of it; there, I guess that will do well
enough. Take the paddle, and bend the tops of
the rice down over the bow, so as to hide the
boat a little better, and it won’t be in the way
of the gun when you are shooting.

Ha! ha! don’t be in a hurry to stoop; those
ducks are a quarter of a mile off, and no
more apt to come here than to go somewhere
else. You never need stoop until they get nearer
than that. How angry it has made me to have
a-nervous know-nothing catch me by the arm and
yank me down, for fear a duck that he happened
to catch sight of half a mile off would see me
and take alarm; a duck too, perhaps, that I had
been watching myself for two or three minutes.

144 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

“Greenhorns” and « hoosiers,” as the regular
hunters call such fellows, when they are hunting
three or four together (and often half a dozen
shoot from the same boat, ussally a big fishing-
skiff), always commence to cry, “Down! down!
Here comes a duck!” whenever they see one any.
where, no matter how far off, or in what di-
rection he may be going; then all crouch low in
all kinds of positions. “Where? where?” the
others cry, and the one who said “down” now
says, “This way”; then the enquirers look at him
to see which way he is looking, and commence
turning round, getting partly up, and stretching
their necks to discover the duck, when the dis-
coverer says, “Oh! he’s going; he a’n’t coming
this way.” Then all rise up again and breathe
freer, until another starts the “Down, down”
again, when the same performance is repeated.
When a duck is coming, he usually sees them
while making so many motions, and of course
sheers off; but sometimes when they are all stand-
ing up, watching, some young fool of a drake will
come right up to them, unperceived, perhaps, until he
is passing by. “Down! down!” again; and while
the others are stooping, one fircs, but not until
the duck is out of range. Then they commence,

MORNING MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 145

“What made you shoot?” “Why didn’t you let
him go by?” “We could have called him back!”
And one perhaps is now trying to do so, mak-
ing a noise more like a bull-frog than a duck,
and keeping it up until the duck is out of sight.
I am not over-drawing it a particle, as I have
often seen it.

Mark! to the right. Tl see if I can’t call that
young drake this way. Yes, here he comes; don’t
move until he gets almost to you, and then put
it on him without getting up, and pull. (Bang!
Bang!) You shot too quick, but I’ve saved him.
Remember this isn’t like shooting along the creek ;
there the ducks, jumping up in front and flying
most always directly away nearly on a level with
you, may be often killed with snap-shots, like
quail or snipe; but in this cross and overhead
shooting, overhead most especially, snap-shooting
won't do. You can’t make the proper and ne-
cessary calculations unless you take more time,
and the position in overhead shooting is one you
are not much accustomed to in the field. Now,
the next one that comes, take it slower; if coming
in line, let him get an angle of forty-five degrees
or more with you before you raise the gun; then

bring it up directly behind him, moving it con-

146 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

siderably faster than he is coming, and timing it as
near as possible, so as to be just passing in front
of him as he gets almost directly over your
head; then press the trigger smartly (don’t pull
it) without stopping the gun, and if he is inside
of thirty yards you will kill him clean; beyond
that distance you will need to hold a little
further ahead, according to the increase of dis-
tance.

Mark! straight ahead; here comes a flock di-
rectly at us. Don’t be in a hurry, and pick out
your bird; take one of the hind ones. Good!
that fellow won’t get away. I got a couple down
dead that time—that makes four altogether. We
must keep account of them, and mark where they
fall. We will pick them up when we get through;
three are in open sight, and one is in that little,
bunch to the right, remember.

Mark! Teal coming. Cool now, but not , too
slow. There, that’s business-like. We can’t count
that wing a broken one, for he'll get away; the
dog might get him, but I don’t want him clam-
bering into the boat all dripping with mud
and water, and there is no place fer him to
stand on out there, so we will let that one go.
Mark! east. I[f they come, take the head one; 1

MORNING MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 147

will try and get the hind one. Good! Load up
again; here come some more to the right. How
quick they turn when they hear the call? Steady!
Four down that time; those make fifteen, includ-
ing the five teal.

See what a lot some fellow is putting up over
east; we will be apt to get a crack at some of
those. Yes, here they come. [ll leave the head
ones to -you. Only two down that time, eh? I
missed that second shot of mine clean. Load
up quick; we'll get several shc.s at these be-
fore they all get settled. Did you see those
two drop from that flock over there to our right?
Some fellow is doing pretty good shooting there.
I’ve seen him kill several lately. Steady! Low
down to the left. (Bang!) He’s all right; but
never mind, no man can kill every time.

See that flock towards the sun coming into
the pond; how quickly they lower when they get
over it? There! that same fellow at our right
just dropped another. That flock is coming
straight’ towards us, but is rather high yet. Keep
low, and let them circle; YIl call them right
down. Did you see how they darted down when
they saw those dead ones? They’ll turn right
back. Now, steady! That’s the kind of fellows

148 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

we want. Three more! Every one makes the bag
bigger. We are doing what I call mighty good
shooting; of course we are bound to miss sore.
Yes, I see him; you can take care of him.
Well, he did let go everything, and all at once
too, didn’t he? “Dead as a stone!”

So the sport continues, until the ducks, as
though tired of performing their part of it, be-
come fewer and further between; then the dead
ones are picked up, and we start again towards
the river, killing a few more while paddling
down the creek, the wood-duck, as I predicted,
contributing to the number. The continuation of
the day’s shooting I will describe in the next
chapter.

CHAPTER IX.
MID-DAY MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL.

We have done very well so far this morn-
ing—fifty-three ducks, I believe you said. Now, if
you are not tired—and you surely don’t look to
be—we will try the place I mentioned. It is now
about ten o’clock, and we can go there in half
an hour, so I think we will have a look at it
any way. We leave the boat in the bend just
ahead of us, and then we have about a quarter
-of a mile to walk back into the woods. You
can be putting on your rubber boots. :

There, jump out, and take the guns and dun-
nag», Lay them down there on the bank until
1 moor the boat; it’s always best when conve-
nient, for there may be cattle here in the woods,
and I have known them to step into boats, when
pulled up on the bank, and break through the
bottoms of them; our ducks, too, will be safer
from hogs. 1 never carry an anchor or weight,
but simply push the paddle down into the mud

as far as possible, and fasten the chain to it. I
149

150 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

guess that will do. Take your gun and ammu-
nition. We will take the lunch with us, too;
and there are a couple of bottles of lager-beer,
which is much better to drink than slough-water.
There, I’ll take the rest. How much better walk-
ing it is in this bottom-timber than in the woods
of New England; no underbrush to bother you,
and the ground level and free of stones.

Do you see those large bunches of sticks and
brush in the tops of those tall trees? What do
you suppose they are? “Nests of some kind.”
Yes, they are the nests of the blue heron; there
are hundreds of them here, you see. They come
here every year about the middle of April, and
commence to build their nests for rearing their
young. They keep up a constant noise day and
night during their stay, and can be heard a con-
siderable distance. Here comes Jack with a crip-
pled duck in his mouth. Well done, old fellow!
Back, now! I want to have a look at those ducks
ahead of us before you scare them off.

The slough is just there in front of us where
you see that opening through the trees, Be care-
ful, and don’t step on a dry stick, and keep that
large maple between you and the slough. See
that flock come in, and what a quacking the

MID-DAY MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL, 151

others are making over’ it! There, just look by
the tree, and see what a lot of them there are.
Down, Jack! What comfort they appear to be
taking; it almost seems a pity to disturb them.
Why, the slough is almost full. 1 suppose you
have picked out the thickest cluster, and are im-
patient to shoot. But no, that won’t do; you
might perhaps get ten or a dozen with both bar-
rels, but you would very likely spoil our shooting
for the rest of the day. We mustn’t tell this
big body of ducks that we have guns here, or
they won’t be very likely to come back; but I'll
just step out and put them up without alarming
them too much, and then they will return again
shortly, a few at a time; and, from the large num-
ber here now, I judge we will be kept pretty
busy taking care of them. If it was later in the
day, it might be to our advantage to try a sit-
ting-shot, as there might then be enough come back
to last us the rest of the day, and we would have
those killed at the first fire for decoys; but just
now I think we had better wait.

Halloo! What a flapping and quacking! You
go round to the right, and wade out, most to
the edge of. the open water. 1 will go round
the other way, and take a stand opposite to

152 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

you. The ducks will oome in between us, and
as the slough is not over fifty yards wide, we
will have some pretty shots. See them coming
back already! Just shoot away now whenever
you feel like it, till we get our stands fixed.
One down, but a cripple; you needn’t shoot him
over. Jack will get every cripple that falls here,
Pll warrant you. Wang up your cartridge-bag on
a branch of. the buck-brush, and cut some brush
to make your blind thicker. I can see you
through it quite plainly; and trim off the tops
of the brush in front of you about breast-high,
so that you can shoot over it more easily.
Mark! east. Let them go over once while 1
call them. Here they come again, right low
down. Be careful, now, and don’t shoot me; take
the foremost. Hurrah! Five down. Go on, Jack,
and fetch that cripple. Good dog! The ducks
almost always enter this pond from the east, as
the trees are much lower on that side; so when
I cry “mark,” look to that end, unless I tell you
some other direction. Mark again! Well done!
I guess I will go out now, and stick up these
ducks we have killed for decoys; they will help
to quiet any suspicions in the new-comers. These
dead ducks make the best of decoys—far better

MID-DAY MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 153

than any artificial ones. Cut me three or four
more sticks; make them about two feet long,
and sharpen both ends. Come, Jack, old fellow,
and fetch me these dead ducks. There! see how
naturally that duck sits on the water. You see
I push these stakes down firmly into the mud,
leaving about six or seven inches above water ;
then right between the base of the bill and neck,
on the under side of the head of the duck, there
is a soft place free from bone, and by pushing
this down firmly upon the point of the stick
the duck is held in position. The tail feathers .
usually need raising a little, as in life the mal-
lard carries them slightly elevated. Many use a
crotched stake instead of one sharpened at the top,
and merely hook the duck’s head over it. This
plan is full as good in calm water, but if there
happens to be a little swash the heads work
loose and fall down. There, that makes quite a
respectable-looking flock. Come, Jack, let’s get
back to our blind now, the sooner the better.
In somt parts of the country, where it may be
difficult to procure stakes, cane or rice stalks
may be used to stick up ducks on. But as these
are very brittle and elastic, they cannot be easily
pushed into the under part of the head; so

154 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL,

they should be cut considerably longer than
sticks. needed for the same depth of water, and
one end being pushed down the throat of the
duck, it should then be bent sharply just back
of the head, and the other end ‘pushed firmly
into the mud.

Mark! Let them go over. I'll call them down.
Coolly, now; and always take the head ones
when coming in from that direction. Glorious!
Every one clean killed. No work for you this
time, Jack. By Jove, this kind of sport can’t be
- beat anywhere. They drop their wings and come
in so unsuspiciously right in between us_ here,
and they can’t get out either, except by “ climb-
ing” almost straight up; and as their headway
is almost stopped, we can take ‘our time with
them. We ought not to miss a shot, but of
course some unaccountably bad ones will be made.
I remember doing some most miserable shooting
here once, and my partner for the day, usually
a better shot than common, doing the same as I.
1 can’t explain it to this day, and I sha’h’t try.
Mark! Let them go by. Take it cool now,
and see how “clean” you can do it. Tl trust
you with both of them this time. Steady! Ah!
that won’t do; you were in too much of a

MID-DAY MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 155

hurry with your first bird, for fear the second
one would get away. There was no need of that,
for after you had fired both barrels he was
not forty yards from you. Take plenty of time
with your first barrel; let the second be the
snap-shot, if either—but neither, if you can help
it. I see, though, to-day you are not one of the.
kind to get discouraged because of an occasional
miss. Why, on the day when I did my poor
shooting here, I was standing in this very blind
and eating my lunch—my partner, whom I will
call Ned, was in your position—when a single
mallard duck came into the slough, low down,
intending to light within thirty feet of me. I
jumped up, rather too quickly, perhaps, and fired ;
not a feather was touched, as I could see. Then
the’ second barrel more carefully, as 1 thought,
but no game. Ned laughed rather immoderately,
it seemed to me, as the duck flew directly towards
him, and, taking aim very deliberately, he fired ;
the duck certainly was not ten yards away, and |
expected to see it literally blown to pieces; but
no, it simply changed the direction of its course.
I looked at Ned, who appeared a trifle more se-
rious, and was taking aim again with a determined,
bloodthirsty expression of countenance. Bang went

156 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

the gun a second time, and the duck flew away,
quacking wildly, scared most excessively, but ap-
parently otherwise unhurt. It was now my turn to
laugh, and I think 1 did so. Soon Ned had to join
in. Well, we both agreed that such a completely
scared duck we had never before seen. It actually
didu’t know which way to go; there was plenty
of time for either of us to have fired a couple
more barrels at it before it was out of range,
and we could hear it quacking as though for a bet
and against “ big odds” some time after it had got
out of sight.

Mark! By Jove! I reckon “somebody’s cut the
bag open,” as the saying is out here, from the
way they are coming. Leave the hind ones to
my care. That’s the kind; load again as soon as
possible. Well, I’m ready. ’Way you go! Two
more. Now pitch it into them coolly. This is
exciting, but we must keep steady. Let this large
flock light. It isn’t exactly sportsmanlike, I think
myself, but it is often excused in duck-shooting.
When you can get three or four in range, blaze
away; don’t wait for me. Quiet, now; don’t move.
Bang, bang, ba—bang! There, Jack, is work for
you. Four, five, six, seven dead and three crip-
.ples, and only four escape. This is slaughter.

e

MID-DAY MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 157

Watch this old fool of a duck coming, and see me
“raise her.” Quack! Quiet, Jack. Bang! What
a cloud of feathers! Fetch her, Jack. Well, well.
-As Joe Carroll used to say, you’d think she’d
been shot with a threshing-machine; she feels like
a big sponge. "Twill make good hash for some
Chicago boarding-house. Did you notice when I
called her, how quick she dropped her wings? I
like ,“ calling by mouth” much better than with
a “squawker,” especially if the ducks are passing
reasonably close.-. 1 will try and explain to you,
though, how to make a squawker, if the ducks will
only keep away long enough.

First a tube of wood or metal (bamboo cane
is chiefly used) is to be provided, about three-
quarters of an inch inside diameter, and from
four to eight inches long; a plug about three
inches long is fitted to one end, and after being
split in two, one-half is grooved to within a
quarter of an inch of its smaller end, the groove
being perhaps a quarter of an inch wide and
of the same depth. The tongue is simply-a very
thin piece of sheet copper or brass, which should
be hammered to increase its elasticity; it should
be about two and a half inches long and from
three-eighths to half an inch wide. At one end,

158 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

which should also be thinner than the other,
the corners should be rounded. The tongue is
then placed over the grooved half, the round
end nearly to the extreme smaller end of the»
plug, and the tongue completely covering the
groove. The other half of the plug should be
shortened about an inch and a half from its
smaller end, and then being placed on the grooved
part, thus holding the tongue fast, both should
be pushed firmly into the tube. By blowing in
the other end of the tube the-"call is produced;
the tone, degree of fineness, etc., of which is regu-
lated by the shortened half of the plug—moving
it in or out as a finer and sharper or lower
and coarser note is required. Some little expe-
rience and practice is, of course, required to use
it correctly. You should always pay particular
attention to the different notes of -wild fowl, as
well as the occasions of their being made—whethér
as a call (which may be addressed either to a
mate or to a flock passing by), a note of wel-
come to a flock alighting, an answer to a call,
a note of suspicion, or a signal to take wing.
The call-notes especially, though also the note of
welcome, you should practise whenever you have
opportunity. When you hear them made by the

MID-DAY MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 159

. ducks, try to imitate them as near as possible, and
you will be well repaid.

Now as to- why we have this good shoot-
ing here in the middle of the day: The
ducks, you must know, feed mostly during the
night and early morning, and would stay in their
feeding-places pretty generally during the day,
were it not for being driven from them by the
hunters, and to such quiet, out-of-the-way places as
this they come simply to rest and to avoid their
persecutors. Two or three days’ banging uses up
these places for a time; but in a feeding-place like
the rice-pond one may shoot for weeks, of course
varying his stand frequently, as the ducks would
naturally avoid a point where a hunter was always
to be found. When driven from one of these
roosting-places or mid-day resorts by continuous
shooting, they congregate in another, which the
* duck-shooter should know and repair to. That
big batch of ducks that came in a_ short
time ago was probably put out of some
other slough by some trapper or duck-shooter.
This I judge by their quacking-and the scattered,
irregular manner in which they came, as well as
by their large numbers. These smaller flocks
and single ducks often get up and come back of

160 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

their own accord,-thinking (I am satisfied ducks, —

and in fact all animal kind, have the faculty of
thinking in some degree) we had gone on after
putting them out.

To know how and where to find the ducks
at mid-day, is one of the main requirements
for noted success in duck-shooting. A thorough
knowledge of the country is a great advantage;
but if a person will only keep his eyes open,
and take note of what is going on around him,
though in a strange place, he may find game with
more certainty than a blinkard who knows every
foot of it.

Yes, I see them. Steady, now! Tl hold you
answerable for both. Beautiful! See that puff
of feathers floating down like flakes of snow!
Here comes another pair. [Il try one of these.
Well done again! Two more pretty ones! Quiet,
Jack; he’s dead enough, you greenhorn. Let’s
see, where was 1? I was going to tell you how
to find these places. Well, then, bear this rule
in mind, and make a practice and habit of it:
When shooting in the morning, or in fact at
any time of day, keep your eyes open, and be
sure you see every duck that comes within see-
ing limits. More: observe distinctly the direc-

MID-DAY MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 161
Cd

tions of their flights, from what parts they come,
and towards which points they mainly appear to
be going. You will perhaps see a great many
pitching down or lowering their flight over some
particular place, especially late in the morning,
while few or none seem to be getting up from
there. Mark that carefully; that is a mid-day
roosting-place. Others you see earlier in the
morning, coming and going continually to and
from another place. This is probably a feeding-
pond. Again, you may observe a point by which
the main body appears to take its flight. There
is a good passway for flight-shooting. Still again,
you notice a certain point where most ducks, on
approaching it, appear to suddenly dart upwards
and scatter quickly. You may be assured there
is a shooter there. In the evening the ducks
will be seen coming from the roosting-ponds and
going to the feeding-grounds. Thus you may
know, while shooting one day, where to look
for them on the morrow. The uninitiated, non-
observing numskull depends entirely on fickle
luck, and probably spends the day, when not shoot-
ing, in fingering the locks of his gun, playing
with or talking to his dog, or other thoughtless
proceedings, and paying no attention to the flight

162 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

of any ducks, unless it be the few that happen
to come within range. Let me impress this on
your mind: Keep your eyes open.

Mark! A pretty flock. Now see if you can’t
get two the first barrel. Il wait for you.
Bravo! One is crippled, but that is no discredit.
Aman can hardly be expected to kill more than
one “clean” at a time. That is another trick
whereby the skilful hunter makes the most of
his opportunities; but you needn’t try it too
often at first. It is better for the novice to con-
tent himself with one bird at a shot. He will
do better, and his shooting will improve faster.
By trying to get two he often fails to get any.
When you have had more experience, you can
watch for them to cross, and be ready to avail
yourself of thosé chances.

It will be tedious to the reader to particular-
ize the shooting further. Suffice it to say, after
a couple of hours more of the choicest sport, we
gather up our game, seventy-two head in all,
making a total for the day of one hundred and
twenty-five, buckle it in the game-straps, and start
for the boat, which we reach without noteworthy

incident. It being nearly sundown, we decide not

MID-DAY MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 163

to try evening shooting, which we would have to
go to a feeding-pond again to enjoy; so we
paddle directly home, where we arrive in time for
a nice warm supper with “the folks.”

The game-strap, an exceedingly useful part of
‘the duck-shooter’s outfit, consists of a piece
of sole or heavy harness-leather, three inches
broad by six inches in length, to each end
of which is attached a narrow strip of bridle-
leather, about two feet in length, punched at
intervals of half an inch to receive the tongue
of a buckle, which is fastened one at each end of
the broad strip. One-half the ducks to be carried
are bunched heads together, one strap buckled
tightly around their necks, and the remainder
being buckled to the other side, they are thrown
across the shoulders, and in this way may be
carried a long distance. Twenty mallards on
each side make a good strapful.

CHAPTER X.
EVENING MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL.

Tue general character and methods of proce-
dure in the “ evening shooting ” of mallards are so
similar to those described in the foregoing chap-
ters that a full explanation of them is unneces
sary. The stand is commonly selected in some
one of their various feeding-ponds, or on some
favorable point on their route to them from
their mid-day resorts. The first named, however,
is generally the best, if it can be reached con-
veniently, as the shooting lasts much longer—
often until too dark to see to shoot—from the
ducks flying about the pond for some time after
coming in; and more opportunities for close shots
are to be had here than on the passways, as
their flight is lowered immediately on reaching
the pond.

After it begins to get dark there is no need
of a blind; just stoop a little—the ducks will
take no notice of you—and by facing the west
you may see them distinotly against the light

EVENING MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 165.

sky long after the sun goes down, and when it
would be impossible to see them in any other
direction. Now you must be in readiness for
snap-shots, and instantly, on seeing a duck with-
in range, throw up your gun and pull without
hesitation. If you have pointed correctly, you
will be gratified by hearing the splash of your
game in the water, following the report of the
gan. If in a favorable locality, the numbers of
the ducks and their continual quacking and whiz-
zing by cannot fail to confuse the beginner, who
will frequently stand still, undecided which one
to shoot at. Experience will, however, quickly
cure him (unless he -be naturally of a very ex-
citable disposition), so that no amount of game
will afterwards disturb his composure.

If you have a good dog with you, and are in
a place that will admit of it, let him retrieve
your ducks as fast as killed; if not, and you are
shooting from a boat, you must quit shooting be-
fore it gets too dark, and pick up your game, or,
if you intend to come back in the morning, let
them remain until then. The owls and minks, how-
ever, in such case, will very likely have robbed
you of a couple or so. If you intend to shoot’
in the same place next morning or evening, you:

166 “GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

had better quit and pick up early, or the flashes
from your gun after dark will so alarm the ducks
that they will forsake it for some other less
dangerous place. Many shots will frequently be
had at wood-duck, teal, and sprigtails in this sport,
more particularly in the rice-ponds, their common
favorite feeding-places.

Now, a hint or two as to picking up your
ducks in a rice-pond. Before you leave your
blind fasten to the top of the tallest handy stalk
of rice a piece of paper, rag, or other conspicuous.
object, to serve as a guide to direct your course,
which you may be the better able to.
judge when you have gone far enough in any
direction. If you have but few ducks down, it
will be better to go direct to each one; but if
there be fifty, sixty, or more, take a direct course
from your blind, in the direction you suppose the
greater part to lie, to a distance which will in-
clude all the dead in that direction, and, keeping
a sharp lookout in front and on both sides, pick
up all you may see. When you have reached
your limit of distance, turn squarely to the right
or left from fifteen to twenty-five feet, according
to the density of the rice, and then take a course

back towards your blind parallel to your first one.

EVENING MALLARD SHOOTING—FALL. 167

If there are ducks beyond the blind on that side,
keep on by as far as you think proper, and so
continue in this way until you have been over,
in parallel lines, all the cifcle liable to contain
your ducks. Very often the ducks will drop
into a mat of rice which has been broken down
to the surface of the water, in which case, if they
go down through it, they are easily overlooked;
so be careful in your search, and if you see the
tip of a wing or foot sticking up anywhere, satisfy
yourself whether there is the rest of the duck
fastened to it or not.

Where the rice is thick, the water not too
deep, and the mud tolerably firm, you may get
out of your boat, being careful to stand on the
roots of the rice at first, and holding an oar near
its middle with both hands, about two feet apart.
Raise the oar horizontally over your head; now,
bending your body only at the hips, bring the
oar down forcibly against the stalks of the rice,
thus breaking them to the surface of the water.
Raising the oar again, step forward, with the toes
turned well outwards, across and upon the pros-
trate stalks, and bring down the oar again as be-
fore. In this way you break your road _be-
fore you, and at the same time provide a foun-

168 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

dation which will prevent your sinking in the
mud as you walk. It is rather hard work for
one not accustomed to vigorous exercise, but in
such a place one may travel much quicker in
this way than by any other. Your ducks should
be pocketed as fast as recovered, and afterwards
deposited in piles at convenient places, when you
may then gather them in your game-strap, and
take them to the boat. The oar should be used
as a cane to steady yourself when carrying the
ducks on your shoulder.

CHAPTER XI.
CORN-FIELD MALLARD SHOOTING-—WINTER.

As the cold weather approaches and the ponds
begin to skim over with ice, the mallards in
many places, instead of migrating further south,
betake themselves to the rivers, where they con-
gregate in large numbers, and by the combined
warmth of their bodies and the constant agita-
tion of the water manage to keep large surfaces
from freezing over, long after the surrounding
water has frozen to a depth of several
inches. For food they depénd almost wholly upon
corn, which they steal fiom the adjacent fields,
making usually two trips a day for the purpose,
and extending them frequently to a distance of
six or eight miles from the. river. At this time
they feed almost entirely by day, returning to
the river to drink and to rogst at night.

Though their numbers are sometimes almost in-
credible, comparatively few are killed in the fields,
on account of the large extent of their feeding.

grounds and their natural shyness when over the
169

170 GAME—SHOAL WATER FOWL.

land, which causes them to fly high until ready
to alight, when they circle about and lower
gradually near the centre of the field, approaching
within gunshot of the fences as rarely as possible;
and this, from the large size of the Western corn-
fields, they can easily do.

During a heavy snow-storm is the best time for
making a large bag, as the snow covers up the
corn,* which being harder for the ducks to find,
they fly lower and more continually. At this
time the shooter’s dress cannot be too white, and
he will need but a small blind (the smaller the
better in a corn-field, as the ducks will notice
any unusual appearance. and avoid it). In build-
ing it (of corn-stalks, of course) the stalks should
be stood on end, leaning against each other, and
a heavy, solid look avoided as much as_ possible.
After the shooter has secured a few ducks it will
be a good plan to set them up for decoys on split
corn-stalks, taking care to select as clear a space
as possible, where the stalks are low and thinly
dispersed. As they get covered with snow they
should be shaken clean again, or they will be of

* The ducks usually feed on the scattered grains lost in husking, or
the small ears thrown away, rather than tear the husks off them-
selves.

CORN-FIELD MALLARD SHOOTING—WINTER. 171

no advantage. The usual call-note is never to
be practised here, as it will only serve to frighten
the ducks, who never call when feeding in the
fields, but make a kind of low, chattering noise,
which from its sound seemingly implies content-
ment and happiness.

Large shot, No. 2 or 3, Leroy’s size, with heavy
charges of powder, should be used, and aim taken
at a thick bunch, if possible, where the chances:
for breaking a wing or striking the head and neck
are increased. Wing-broken ones are usually easy
to secure, being killed by the fall, if the snow is
not deep; and if not killed, they may be easily
tracked upon it, if running away. One of the chief
objections to this sport is its cruelty, so very many
ducks are hit that fly on to linger perhaps for
days in agony until relieved by death.

Long shots are occasionally to be had at geese
and brant in the fields, as they frequently remain
roosting and feeding with the mallards long after
winter sets in. The brant are generally the first
to leave, the geese next, the mallards staying to
the last, some of them frequently the entire win.
ter, after the holes in the river freeze over,
roosting in the small spring-holes and creeks fed
by the same.

172 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

The sportsman will often happen on a bevy of
quail or pack of prairie-chickens in his corn-field
excursions, and thus, if he be accompanied by a
good dog, may enjoy a variety of sport. He
should be very careful not to leave his game-
strap at home.

CHAPTER XII

MALLARD SHOOTING AT HOLES IN THE ICE—WINTER.

“Bia counts” are frequently made at the holes
in the ice where the ducks roost and come to
drink, and also at the shallow, open water at
the mouths of spring creeks whose bottoms are
covered with sand or gravel, and which the ducks
seek as aid in digesting their food. This sport
seldom lasts very long, as the air-holes freeze
over quickly in cold weather if the ducks are
kept out of them, and the ducks are thereby
forced to leave and hunt open water elsewhere.
But few directions, not heretofore given, are ne-
cessary to the novice in this branch of the sport.
The providing of the blinds has been described in
the chapter relating especially to them. All the
decoys that can be conveniently procured should
be used, the dead ducks being set on the ice,
near the edge of the hole, with their heads upon
stakes or under their wings. There is consider-

able danger attending the sport, however, and it
178

174 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

should never be attempted until the ice is suffi-
ciently strong to prevent the possibility of break-
ing through.

As it is sometimes necessary for the wild-
fowler to cross weak ice, I will give a few pre-
cautions which it will be well for the novice to
observe. Keep as close to your boat as pos-
sible at all times; and instead of walking in
front of the boat, and dragging it after you by
the chain, lay hold of it with the hands on each
side, about two and a half or three feet from
the stern, and thus push it before you; then if
you break through the ice, you will fall upon
the stern of the boat instead of into the water.
A light pole six or eight feet in length,
with a sharp iron point in the end, is very use-
ful on weak ice. The fowler may then remain
in his boat, and propel it by pushing the sharp
end of the pole against the surface of the ice.
If the boat should break through he should stand
near the stern so as to lift the bottom of the
boat at the bow above the surface of the ice,
and either push against the edges of the firm
ice with the pole, or use a paddle in the open
water at the side of the boat. The boat should
then be “rocked” continually to break the ice as

MALLARD SHOOTING AT HOLES IN THE ICE—WINTER. 175

it goes. And when new ice is found that the boat
will not break, the fowler, after pushing the boat
as far out of the water as possible, should step
quickly to the bow, and, resting one knee upon
it, should push with the other leg against the ice
until he can get out, and push again from the
stern, or use his pole as first described.

If you have no boat, and must cross where you
suspect the ice to be weak, cut a strong pole a
couple of inches thick and eight or ten feet long,
and then keeping hold of the pole with both
hands to prevent your sinking entirely in case

‘the ice should break, lie down at full length on

your breast, and you may wriggle across safely
where otherwise it would be impossible. If you
should break through, and have no companion
with you, don’t be frightened, don’t tire yourself
out with useless struggles, breaking ice in all di-
rections, but take time to determine your best
course and shortest way out, and then stick to
it. By so doing you will easily get out where
a nervous, excited person would inevitably be
drowned.

At the mouths of the creeks and shoals where
the ducks come for sand, large numbers are fre-
quently killed from a blind built at a convenient

176 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

distance on the shore. I had, together with my
partner, most excellent sport for several days one
winter at two such places about a mile apart,
both shooting on alternate days at either place.
The ducks at this time were feeding on corn,
and would come in from the fields with their
craws completely distended—often as much as a
gill in each one. Those of the dead ones, after
we had finished shooting, we would cut open and
scatter the corn from them about in the shallow
water, and the ducks finding it there next day,
while we were shooting at the other place, would
be so tempted by the bait as to almost make it~
hard work to keep them away when the third
day came. Decoys should be used, “the more
the merrier”; and “call your prettiest” whenever
you see a duck passing.

TimBER MALLARD SHOOTING—SPRING.

CHAPTER XIII.

MALLARD SHOOTING IN THE TIMBER—SPRING.

In the spring, when the heavily-timbered “ bot-
tom-lands,” as they are called, are inundated by
the rising of the rivers, mallards may be found
sitting in large bodies, both by night and day,
in the depths of the woods, particularly amongst
the maple and willow timber, where they feed on
the larve, buds, and vegetable matter found there
floating on the surface of the water. On being
routed, instead of settling in some other place,
and there remaining for the day, they will come
back shortly, singly and in small parties, afford-
ing most excellent sport. This fact is unknown
to many sportsmen, who think, as I did in my
earlier duck-shooting days, that the ducks cared
but little more for one place than another, and
even if they wished to come back could not, or
at least would be very unlikely to, find the place
again after once leaving.

If the water is shallow enough to admit of

177
*

178 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

wading, unless there happens to be a fallen tree-
top or pile of brush in a favorable position for
shooting, and large enough to conceal both boat
and shooter, the sportsman would better, after find-
ing a place for his boat where it will not be
seen, get out and take a position as near as pos-
sible to where the main body of the ducks are
sitting. He must avoid standing under large
branches or an overhanging tree-top, as such would
interfere with his shooting; but if he can find an
old log, stunip, or clump of bushes in the proper
location, he should get behind it, though if his
dress be of the proper color, and he will hide
his face and avoid moving suddenly when ducks
are approaching, a blind is not absolutely neces-
sary. On seeing ducks flying about, no matter
in what direction, he should call loudly ; and after-
ward from time to time repeat the call, whether
ducks are in sight or not. Frequently they may
be in hearing when he is unable to see them
through the thick woods; and in no place will
ducks answer the call as readily as here. De-
coys are seldom used, yet if there js an open
place handy where they may be readily seen, it
is a good plan to stick up a few dead ones. A

retriever is necessary for this sport, particularly
®

MALLARD SHOOTING IN THE TIMBER—SPRING. 179

if the water is deep—up to the calf of the leg
or so—for if the sportsman is compelled to se-
cure his cripples alone, he may catch his toe
under a hidden root or stick when in pursuit of
them, and thereby perhaps experience a style of
“ducking” not looked for and little to be de-
sired. Sometimes, too, he may find good shoot-
ing, as I have done, when the buck-brush is so
close that the boat cannot be easily pushed
through it, and the water perhaps just too deep
to wade. In such a case, if he has no retriever,
he must leave it and look up another place.

It is better to collect the dead ducks as fast
as killed, as by so doing he will be able to
shoot until the last possible moment, not having
to quit before dark to find his game.

Mallard are said by some authors to dive oc-
casionally for food in the spring.e Though they
may, I have never seen them do so, and think it
rather unlikely.

Timber mallard shooting is one of the best
of sports. The ducks come sailing so slowly
about among the trees, with wings extended,
that the veriest novice can hardly fail gto hit
them, and the experienced sportsman will usually
kill his “right and left” easily. To give the

180 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

reader an idea of what may be done in this
sport, I subjoin a memorandum of shooting done
by a friend of the author, Mr. F. Kimble, a
genuine duck-shooter, during the spring of 1872,
: _all_avith a single-barrelled muzzle-loading gun, 9

pee
gauge. Not over three ducks were killed at any

——

one shot, and nearly all singly:

Feb. 27, killed 70 ducks. Mar. 9, killed 82 ducks.
“cc 28, sé 94 “cr cs 10, (z3 60 “ce
“cs 29, Lai 81 ce “ 11, “cc 12 is 3
Mar. 1, “ 6 ‘ t¢ 19, © 128
se 2, SS 106 ‘¢ 18, didn’t shoot. «
se 3, te GTS “14, killed 122 ducks.
“4, didn’t shoot. ieee (i aes |
“5, killed 66 ducks. “16, “ 68 ‘*
“ 6, “407 = ee =
ey Came | Total, 1,365 ‘
“ce 8, a 65 “ce

Total 17 days’. shooting, 1,365 ducks, and 5 brant
not included in memorandum. His ammunition
gave out almost every day. Not expecting to find
such a large amount of game, the party he was
with took but little with them, and the “ store-
keeper” at the little town near by would order
only a keg or so of powder at a time, and then
would not sell it all to one person at any price,
for fear of offending others,

MALLARD SHOOTING IN THE TIMBER—SPRING. 181

Besides these haunts already mentioned, mallard
are very partial to overflowed prairies and grain-
fields, the shallows among low willows and pin-
oaks, whose tiny acorns they are particularly fond
of. But it is wumnecessary to characterize the
shooting of them further; the various suggestions
already given are applicable to their successful
pursuit in all places.

CHAPTER XIV.
BLUE-WINGED TEAL (ANAS DISCORS).

Avutr mae: bill almost as long as the head,
deeper than broad at the base, depressed towards
the end, its breadth nearly equal in its whole
length, being, however, a little enlarged towards
the rounded tip.

Head of moderate size, oblong, compressed.
Neck of moderate length, rather slender. Body
full, depressed. Feet short, placed rather far back.

Plumage dense, soft, and blended. Feathers of
the head and neck very small and slender; of the
back and lower parts in general broad and round-
ed. Wings of moderate length, rather narrow and
acute. Primaries strong, slightly curved, tapering ;
the first scarcely longer than the second; the rest
rapidly decreasing. Secondaries broad, the outer
obliquely rounded, the inner elongated and acu-
minate, as are the scapulars. Tail short, rounded,
and acuminate, of fourteen rather narrow acumi-

nate feathers.
182

BLUE-WINGED TEAL, 183

Bill bluish-black. Iris dark hazel. Feet dull
yellow; webs dusky; claws brownish-black, with
the tips grayish-yellow. Upper part of the head
black; a semilunar patch of pure white on the side
of the head before the eye, margined before and
behind with black; the rest of the head and the
anterior parts of the neck of a deep purplish-blue
with purplish-red reflections ; the lower hind neck
and fore part of the back brownish-black glossed
with green. Each feather with a curved band of
pale reddish-buff, and a line or band of the same
in the centre; the hind part of the back green-
ish-brown, the feathers edged with paler. The
smaller wing-coverts of a rich ultramarine blue,
silky, with almost metallic lustre. Alula, primary
coverts, and primary quills grayish-brown, edged
with pale bluish; outer secondaries of the same
color, those of the speculum duck-green, changing
to blue and bronze, with a narrow line of white
along their terminal margin; the inner greenish.
black on the outer web, greenish-brown on the
inner, with a central line and narrow external
margin of pale reddish-buff, the more. elongated
scapulars similar, but some of them margined with
greenish-blue. Secondary coverts brown, with
their terminal white. Tail feathers chocolate:

184 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

brown, slightly glossed with green, their mar-
gins buffy. The lower parts are pale reddish-
orange, shaded on the breast with purplish-red, and
thickly spotted with black; the number of roundish
or elliptical spots on each feather varying from
ten to twenty-five, those on the upper and hind
parts of the sides running into transverse bars.
Axillar feathers, some of the lower wing-coverts,
and a patch on the side of the rump pure white;
lower tail-coverts brownish-black.

Length to end of tail, 16 inches; extent of wings,
314; weight, 12} ounces.

Avutt Frema.e: Bill greenish-dusky. Iris hazel.
Feet of a duller yellow than those of the male.
The head and neck are pale dull-buff, longi-
tudinally marked with brownish-black lines, which
are broader and darker on the top of the head.
The fore parts of the cheeks and the throat whit-
ish, without markings. The upper parts are dark-
brown. The feathers margined with brownish-
white. The smaller wing-coverts colored as in the
male, but less brilliantly. No blue on the scapu-
lars, which are also less elongated. On the lower
parts the feathers are dusky-brown, broadly mar-
gined with light brownish-gray, of which there is
a streak or spot in the centre. The axillary

BLUE-WINGED TEAL. 185

feathers and some of the lower wing-coverts are
white ; but’ the patch of that color so conspicuous
in the male is wanting.

Length to end of tail, 15 inches; extent
of wings, 24; weight, 104 ounces.

The flesh of the blue-winged teal is considered
by epicures to bé superior in delicacy of flavor to
that of most water-fowl, that of the red-head and
canvas-back alone excepted; and as they are sel-
dom found in poor condition, unless having been
previously wounded, generally command a high
price in market, and are consequently much sought
for by the market-hunters. They are one of
the very first of the duck tribe to make their
appearance from the north, and congregate in
vast numbers on their favorite feeding-grounds of
the Western country. The seeds of the wild oats
or rice, and grass, various kinds of pond-weeds,
and mosses, and. insects, are accepted by them’
as food. They are very partial to small, muddy-
bottomed streams whose shallow edges are bor-
dered with wild rice, and the broad leaves of
the pond-lily, under which they are often to be
seen sitting, seemingly to escape the too intense
glare and heat of the sun; and are always to
be found too, in proper season, in the shallow

186 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

ponds or sloughs whose slimy, stagnant waters
are filled with the dense growth of weeds and
mosses; but are seldom or never met with in
ponds or streams having gravelly or sandy bot-
toms. The common method of hunting them is
similar to that described under the heads of
morning and evening mallard-shooting, but great
numbers are killed by stealing upon them silently
when feeding. A very slight blow brings them
down, and, as they usually sit quite close together,
as many as fifteen or twenty are often killed
at a single discharge of a common shoulder gun.
Being tamer and less wary than most other
water-fowl, they may be easily approached with
ordinary caution. Small shot should be used for
shooting them, No. 7 or 8 being the proper
size. They may be readily called by imitating
_their notes properly, which are very similar in
character and expression to those of the mallard,
but shorter and pitched higher, such as a mal-
lard of the same size and proportionately feeble
constitution might be supposed to make. They
never appear to be suspicious of decoys, but drop
amongst them immediately without hesitation. And
as they are always found in shallow water, the dead
ones may be set up for decoys, as described on

BLUE-WINGD TEAL. 187

page 68 in mallard shooting. Bear in mind to
‘set the decoys in such a position that they may
show to best advantage; advice on the subject
of decoying will be found in the chapter under
that head.

Capital sport may be had “jumping them,”
as it is called, after they are routed from their
feeding-ponds and during the middle of the day,
when they may be found sitting in small parties
or singly in the edge of the rice which borders
some favorite stream. A very light paddle-boat
is generally used.. If two go together, one shoots
while the other propels the boat; it is. usual,
however, for.one to hunt by himself, in which
case he must, of course, do his own paddling.
He should sit or kneel near the stern, with his
gun in front of him, and in proper position to
be seized instantly on the bird rising, and paddle
quietly yet quickly, keeping as near the edge of
the rice as possible, yet taking care not to allow
the boat to graze any of the stalks, which might
alarm the game. He should be constantly on his
guard to detect any movement of his game, and
instantly, on the bird’s rising, he should drop
the paddle, no matter whether in or out of the
boat, and be ready to shoot as soon as need be.

188 GAME—SHOAL-WATER Fun.

The paddle should be fastened to the boat by a
short, light cord, so that it may be regained-
easily if dropped overboard. When approaching
teal on the water with the intention of shooting,
fire as soon as sufficiently near, as they never give
warning when intending to rise, but spring at once,
irrespective of position. They seldom fly far on
on being flushed, unless continually persecuted,
and alight very much in the manner of wood-
cock. Their flight is usually low and very fast;
and when in flocks, packed closely together,
they afford fine opportunities for killing several at
a shot. The tyro will be frequently surprised
at the small number killed from a large flock,
if fired at at the wrong moment. They should be
allowed to pass a little, and never fired at as
they are approaching, for in such case at the
report of the first barrel they instantly scatter
in all directions, making the second barrel of but
little use. They come together again, however,
in a few rods’ flight. They are not very expert
divers, but will endeavor to secrete themselves,
if wounded, and will remain perfectly quiet, often
allowing the hunter to almost step upon them
before moving. In common with all ducks, they
have the power of sinking the body level with

e
BLUE-WINGED TEAL. 189

the surface of the water when wounded, and often
escape in this manner if the water is at all
rough. In spring they are rarely seen in large
numbers,

CHAPTER XV.
GREEN-WINGED TEAL (ANAS CRECCA).-

Aputt maze: Bill almost as long as the head,
deeper than broad at the base, depressed toward
the end, its breadth nearly equal in its whole
length, being, however, a little enlarged toward
the rounded tip.

Head of moderate size, compressed. Neck of
moderate length, rather slender. Body full, de-
pressed. Wings rather small. Feet short, placed
rather far back. Claws small, curved, compressed,
acute; the hind one smaller and more curved;
that of the third toe largest, and with an inner
sharp edge.

Plumage dense, soft, blended. Feathers of
the middle of the head and upper part of hind
neck very narrow, elongated, with soft, filamen-
tous, disunited bands; of the rest of the head and
upper parts of neck, very short; of the back and

lower parts in general, broad and rounded. Wings

190
e

GREEN-WINGED TEAL. 191

of moderate length, narrow, acute. Tail short,
rounded, and acuminate, of sixteen acuminate
feathers.

Bill black. Iris brown. Feet light bluish gray.
Head and upper part of the neck chestnut-brown;
a broad band narrowing backward from the eye
down the back of the neck, deep, shining green,
edged with black below, under which is a white
line, which, before the eye, meets another that
curves forward and downward to the angles of
the mouth. Chin brownish-black, as are the fea-
thers at the base of the upper mandible. Upper
parts and flanks beautifully undulated with nar-
row brownish-black and white bars; anterior to
the wings is a short, broad, transverse band of
white. Wings brownish-gray; the speculum in
the lower half violet-black, the upper bright-green,
changing to purple, and edged with black; behind
margined with white, before with reddish-white.
Tail brownish-gray, the feathers margined with
paler; the upper coverts brownish-black, edged
with light yellowish-gray. Lower part of neck
anteriorly barred as behind. Breast yellowish-
white, spotted with black; its lower part white.
Abdomen white, faintly barred with gray. A
patch of black under the tail; the lateral tail-co-

192 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

verts cream-colored, the larger black, with broad
white margins and tips.

Length to end of tail, 14% inches; extent of
wings, 24; weight, 10 ounces.

ApvuLt reMALE: The female wants the elongated
crest, and differs greatly in coloring. The head
and neck are streaked with dark-brown and light-
red; the fore-neck whitish; the upper parts mot-
tled with dark-brown; the anterior feathers bar-
red; the posteriors margined with yellowish-
white. The wings are nearly as in the male,
but the green of the speculum ‘is less extensive.
The lower part of the fore-neck is tinged with
yellowish-red and mottled with -dark-brown, as
are the sides; the rest of the lower parts white.

Length to end of tail, 133 inches; extent of
wings, 224; weight, 10 ounces.

This variety resembles the preceding very gene-
rally in form, habits, and manner of flight, and
its flesh is considered of nearly equal delicacy.
They are a trifle smaller than the blue-wings,
and their plumage is more varied and beautiful.
Though generally making their appearance in the
fall at about the same time, they are of a more
hardy, enduring disposition than the other vari-
ety, and remain much later, often until the wea-

GREEN-WINGED TEAL. 193

ther gets very cold. In flight and upon the feeding-
grounds the two associate together promiscuously.
Unlike the blue-wings, the green-wings are quite
tenacious of life, and are more expert in diving.
Their call-notes, too, are entirely different, being
a suceession of short, sharp whistles (pitched
about “high F” on a piano), by imitation of
which they may frequently be decoyed within
gun-shot, as they may also be by means of
stools, or wooden decoys.

In the spring, though often quite abundant,
they are seldom made the special objects of
pursuit by the hunters, the larger and more
profitable species of wild fowl then claiming their
attention. If the sportsman is desirous of shooting
them, however, he should visit the low, overflowed
bottom-lands, where, amongst the low willows and
buck-brush, they are almost certain to be found,
the tender buds of the willow and other trees
being their principal food at this season. They
frequently resort, too, to overflowed grassy prai-
ries, and feed upon the seeds of the grass which
fioat upon the surface of the water. In no other
branch of wild-fowling is a breech-loader of more
advantage than in teal-shooting, in consequence

of the large number of cripples often to be

194 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

secured after a successful ‘shot. Rapidity of load-
ing is then of especial importance.

Finally, they are generally considered most
pleasing to the epicure when. properly broiled
and served in becoming style.

CHAPTER XVI.

PINTAIL DUCK (ANAS ACUTA).

Local names : “ Sprigtails,” ‘‘ Sharptails,” and ‘‘ Water-Pheasants.””

Aputt mate: Bill nearly as long as the head,
deeper than broad at the base, depressed toward
the end, the frontal angles short and obtuse.

Head of moderate size, compressed, the fore-
head rounded. Neck rather long and_ slender.
Body full and depressed. Wings rather small.
Feet very short, placed rather far back; tarsus
very short, compressed at its lower part.

Plumage dense, soft, blended. Feathers of the
head and neck short; on the hind head and
neck elongated. Wings narrow, of moderate
length, acute. Tail of moderate length, tapering,
of fourteen tapering feathers, of which the two
middle project far beyond the rest.

Bill black; the sides of the upper mandible
light-blue. Iris brown. Feet grayish-blue. Claws
black. Head, throat, and upper part of the neck

anteriorly greenish-brown, faintly margined behind
195,

196 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

with purplish-red. A small part of hind neck
dark-green; the rest, and the upper parts in gene-
ral, beautifully undulated with very narrow bars
of brownish-black and yellowish-white. Smaller
wing-coverts, alula, and primary quills gray, the
latter dark-brown towards the end. Speculum of
a coppery-red, changing to dull green; edged an-
teriorly with light brownish-red, posteriorly with
white. The inner secondaries and the scapulars
black and green, with broad gray margins. Up-
per tail-coverts cream-colored, the outer ribs black-
ish and green; tail light-gray, the middle feathers
dark-brown, glossed with green. On each side of
the neck is an oblique band of white, of which
color are the upper parts in general; the sides,
however, are undulated like the back; the lateral
feathers of the rump cream-colored; the lower tail-
coverts black, those at the sides edged with
white.

Length to end of tail, 29 inches; extent of
wings, 36; weight, 2 pounds.

Aputt FEMALE: The female, which is much
smaller, has the upper parts variegated with
brownish-black and light yellowish-brown; the
margin of the feathers and a mark on each side
of the shaft being of the latter color. The specu-

PINTAIL DUCK. 197

lum is dusky green, margined behind with white.
The primary quills grayish-brown. The lower parts
are of a light brownish-yellow, the sides variegated
with brown; the bill is black; the iris brown;
the feet light bluish-gray.

Length, 224 inches; extent of wings, 34; weight,
1 pound 9 ounces.

The sprigtail, the most graceful and symmetri-
cally formed of the whole duck tribe, like the mal-
lard, is found in nearly every State in our Union,
with the exception of Maine and the New England
States in general, and it is often made a cause for
wonder amongst sportsmen that they do not fre-
quent these States more, and Maine more especial-
ly, as it would seem its hundreds of lakes and
streams, with acres of marsh-lands adjoining, might
prove enticement sufficient; but simply because
their proper food is not to be found in these
lakes or thereabouts in needed abundance is the
sole and ample reason for their non-appearance.
The timber of Maine consists chiefly of pine;
oak is very scarce, and pin-oaks, whose tiny acorns
are greedily sought for by mallards and sprigtails,
are unknown. Smart-weed, cockle-burrs, and wild
oats never grow there, and corn is not raised
in sufficient plenty to afford food for them.

198 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

Beech-mast, a favorite food of sprigtails, is often
very abundant, but the trees are as often on the
hills far from water as near by, and no duck
often makes a business of looking for food many
miles from water, unless it be to sometimes steal
a little corn or other grain from the farmers.
The food of the black ducks, which are often
found there in quite goodly numbers, consists
mainly of leeches, snails, insects, and larve; and
though sprigtails and mallards often partake of
them, I am inclined to believe they would pre-
fer wild oats as a steady diet.

Sprigtails are not: usually so plenty in the
Western States in the fall as during the spring;
but a few make their appearance during Septem-
ber, associating very generally. with the other
shoal-water ducks, but with the mallard most par-
ticularly ; feeding and travelling with the same
flock continually for days, and timing their flights,
which are usually much faster than that of the
mallard, to its rate of speed. Upon the break-
ing up of winter, however, they begin to arrive
in countless numbers, taking possession, as it were,
of the overflowed prairies and corn-fields, where
they feed upon the previous season’s waste and
unharvested grain, and the grass-seeds which, float-

‘

PINTAIL DUCK. 199

ing upon the surface of the water, become drifted
together into large patches. Here they soon be-
come exceedingly fat and their flesh fine-flavored.
They fly closely together without order, darting
aimlessly about, and it is not uncommon to kill
several at a shot. When travelling, their flight
is steadier, and they often keep up a continual
cackling and whistling noise. Their call-note is a
low, plaintive whistle of one tone two or three
times repeated, which they will answer readily
upon its being well imitated; but it is as well
to use the mallard call for this fowl, as they
answer it full as well, and decoy to mallard-
stools as quickly and readily as though of their
own kind. It is therefore unnecessary to make
decoys to imitate sprigtails. They do not show
as well as mallard decoys, being smaller and
the colors more neutral and unattractive; and if
made with long necks, as the natural birds are,
they are easily broken, besides taking up too much
room when moving about.

In sprigtail-shooting it is best to place the
decoys to windward of the blind when circum-
stances will allow, particularly when the ducks
are shy; and in this respect they differ from all
other wild-fowl. When much pursued, they get

200 GAME-——-SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

very wary, and often when shooting mallards 1
have had old cock-sprigtails come up against the
wind, almost within gun-shot, when they would
“jump” back all at once and circle about to.lee-
ward of the decoys, and, after coming and going
perhaps half a dozen times, finally drop down just
out of reach. I never saw a hunter who did not ex-
perience a most happy feeling of satisfaction when
he had succeeded in killing such a one. The object
of putting the decoys to windward is to take ad-
vantage of this habit of circling about to their lee-
ward. When in flocks, they generally decoy much
better and appear less suspicious.

When wounded, they endeavor to escape by
running, if on land, and will frequently hide and
crouch motionless to escape observation. They
are not very expert divers, and when wounded
usually try to remain under water so long as to
quickly tire themselves out, when they may be
easily captured. In the fall they remain until the
ponds are skimmed over with ice, when they
take up their departure for the south, No. 5
or 6 St. Louis shot is the best size for ordinary
sprigtail-shooting.

CHAPTER XVII.

THE WOOD-DUCK OR SUMMER DUCK (ANAS SPONSA).

Aputt mate: Bill shorter than the head,
deeper than broad at the base, depressed toward
the end, slightly narrowed toward the middle of
the unguis, the frontal angles prolonged and
pointed.

Head of moderate size. Neck rather long and
slender. Body full and depressed. Wings rather
small. Feet very short, strong, placed rather
far back, tarsus very short, considerably de-
pressed. ,

Plumage dense, soft, blended, generally glossed.
Feathers of the middle of the head and upper
part of the hind neck very narrow, elongated, and
uncurved ; of the rest of the head and upper part of
the neck very short; of the back and lower parts in
general broad and rounded, excepting on the shoul-
ders before the wings, where they are enlarged,
very broad, and abrupt. Wings of moderate

length, narrow, and acute. Tail of moderate
201

202 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

length, rather broad, much rounded, of sixteen
rounded feathers.

Upper mandible bright-red at the base, yellow-
ish at the sides; the intermediate space along
the ridge and the unguis black, as in the lower
mandible and its membrane. Iris and edges of
eyelids bright red. Feet dull orange. Claws
black. Upper part of the head and space be-
tween the bill and the eye deep green and -
highly glossed; below the latter space a patch
of dark purple, and a larger one of the same
color, but lighter, behind the eye; sides of the
neck, its hind parts under the crest, and the mid-
dle all round very dark purple. Throat for
more than three inches pure white, with a
process on each side a little beyond the
eye, and another nearly half way down the
throat. Sides of the neck and its lower part
anteriorly reddish-purple; each feather on the
latter with a triangular white tip. Middle of
the neck behind, back, and rump very dark red-
dish-brown; the latter deeper and tinged with
green, Upper tail-coverts and tail greenish-black.
Some of the lateral tail-coverts dull reddish-pur-
ple; a few on either side with their filaments
light-red. Smaller wing-coverts, alula, and pri-

THE WOOD-DUCK OR SUMMER DUCK. 203

maries dull grayish-brown. Most of the latter,
with part of their outer web grayish-white, and
their inner, toward the tip, darker and glossed
with green. Secondary quills tipped with white,
the outer webs green, with purple reflections.
Those of the inner secondaries and scapulars
velvet-black, their inner webs glossed and changing
to green. The broad feathers anterior to the
wings are white, terminated with black. Breast
and abdomen grayish-white. Feathers under the
wings yellowish-gray, minutely undulated with
black and white bars. Lower wing-coverts and
axillar feathers white, barred with grayish-brown.
Lower tail-coverts dull grayish-brown.

Length to end of tail, 204 inches; extent of
wings, 28.

Aputr remAte; The female is considerably
smaller, and differs greatly from the male in
coloring. The feathers of the head are not elon-
gated, but those of the upper part of the neck
are slightly so. In other respects the plumage
presents nothing very remarkable, and is similar
to that of the male. Bill blackish-brown. Feet
dusky, tinged with yellow. Upper part of the
head dusky, glossed with green. Sides of the
head and neck, and the hind part of the latter,

204 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

light brownish-gray. Throat white, but without
the lateral processes of the male. Fore part of
the neck below, and sides, light yellowish-brown,
mottled with dark grayish-brown, as are the sides
under the wings. Breast and abdomen white,
the former spotted with brown. Hind neck, back,
and rump dark-brown, glossed with . green and
purple. Wings as in the male, but the specu-
lum less, and the secondaries externally faint
reddish-purple; the velvet-black of the male di-
minished to a few narrow markings. Tail dark-
brown, glossed with green.

Length, 194 inches. :

The wood-duck is the most beautifully plu-
maged of the whole family of wild fowl. They
are common to nearly all parts of our Union,
excepting the sea-coast, which they rarely visit.
“They build their nests frequently in hollow
trees and stumps, and from this circumstance
probably received their name.” They never dive
for food, but live chiefly upon acorns, pond-
moss, the seeds of the wild-oats, and insects,
and are to be found, tov, feeding on the scat-
tered and waste kernels of wheat and other grain
which are always left upon the fields after harvest.

The most successful method of hunting wood-

THE WOOD-DUCK OR SUMMER DUCK. 205

ducks, and that most in use amongst hunters, is
identical with that described under the head
of blue-winged teal, i.e., “jumping them up” along
the creeks and rivers which they frequent. The
best season for this sport is the latter part of
August and the month of September. In this
sport watch carefully about the old logs and rat-
houses which are to be found along the edges of
the reeds. Wood-ducks are very ‘fond of sitting
on such places during the middle of the day to
preen themselves and bask in the sun.

Their usual note (this varies considerably, how-
ever) is a sound between a whistle and a squeal,
commenced in a medium tone, and finished about
three notes higher, slurring gradually, though not
smoothly, the intermediate tones. They are not
easily decoyed, either by stools or calls. In the
fall, just about dusk in the evening, they fre-
quently gather in quite large flocks in some
sheltered bend of the river or in some favorite
pond to roost. They fly through the woods very
rapidly, darting about amongst the trees much
like wild pigeons. Are not very tenacious of
life; but when erippled are very cunning. Dive
very well, and if near the land “usually try to
escape by hiding.

CHAPTER XVIII.

AMERICAN WIDGEON (ANas AMERICANA).
-Local name, ‘ Bald-pate.”

ApuLt MALE: Bill nearly as long as the head,
deeper than broad at the base, depressed towards
the end, the sides nearly parallel, the tip rounded.

Head of moderate size, oblong, compressed.
Neck rather long, slender. Body elongated and
slightly depressed. Feet very short; tibia bare
for about a quarter of an inch; tarsus very
short, compressed.

Plumage dense, soft, blended. Feathers of the
head and upper neck oblong, small; those along
the crown and occiput longer; of the lower parts
ovate, glossy, with the extremities of the fila-
ments stiffish. Wings rather long, little curved,
narrow, pointed. Tail short, rounded, and pointed,
of sixteen feathers, of which the middle pair are
more pointed, and project considerably.

Bill light grayish-blue, with the extremity, in-
206

AMERICAN WIDGEON. 207

cluding the unguis and a portion of the margins,
black. Iris hazel. Feet light bluish-gray, the
webs darker, the claws dusky. The upper part
of the head is white, more or less mottled with
dusky on its sides; the loral space and cheeks
reddish-white, dotted with greenish-black; ‘a2 broad
band from the eye to behind the occiput deep-
green. The lower part of the hind neck, the
scapulars, and the fore part of the back are
minutely transversely undulated with brownish-
black and light brownish-red; the hind part
similarly undulated with blackish-brown and gray-
ish-white. The smaller wing-coverts are brownish-
gray; the primary quills and coverts dark gray-
ish-brown; the secondary coverts white, tipped
with black. The speculum is duck-green anteri-
orly, bounded by the black tips of the second-
ary coverts. The tail feathers are light brownish-
gray. The throat is brownish-black; the lower
part of the neck in front and the fore part of
the breast light brownish-red; the breast, belly,
and sides of the rump white; the sides of the
body finely undulated with white and dusky; the
rump beneath and the lower tail-coverts black.

Length to end of tail, 20} inches; extent of
wings, 341; weight, 1 pound 14 ounces.

208 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

Avutt Fremate: The female is considerably
smaller. The bill, feet, and iris are colored as in
the male. The head and upper part of the neck
all round are white or reddish-white, longitudi-
nally streaked with brownish-black, the top of the
head transversely barred; the lower part of the
neck in front and behind, the fore part of the
back, and the scapulars, are blackish-brown; the
feathers broadly margined with brownish-red and
barred with the same; the bars on the back
narrow; the hind part of the back dusky; the
upper tail-coverts barred with white. The wings
are grayish-brown; the secondary coverts tipped
with white; the secondary quills are brownish-
black,- the inner grayish-brown, all margined with
white. All the lower parts are white, excepting
the feathers of the sides and under the tail, which
are broadly barred with dusky and light reddish-
brown.

Length to end of tail, 18 inches; extent of
wings, 30; weight, 1 pound. 5: ounces.

I have found widgeon most abundant on the
mossy, stagnant waters of Southern Missouri and
Tennessee, but never in such numbers, however,
as to warrant particular notice. There they asso-
ciate indiscriminately with the gray duck or gad-

AMERICAN WIDGEON. 209

wall, the most numerous duck in those localities.
They feed more by night than day, chiefly upon
pond-moss, the blades, roots, and seeds of vari-
ous water-grasses, insects, ete., and occasionally,
though rarely, dive in shoal water to secure them.
On the Chesapeake they are said to be particu-
larly fond of the roots of the wild celery, but being
poor divers, depend upon stealing their supplies
from the canvas-back—a trick they are said to be
very expert in. “Watching for the moment of
the canvas-back’s rising, and before he has his
eyes well opened, they rush forward, snatch the
delicious morsel from his mouth and make off to
enjoy it.’ 1 have never seen them in company
with the canvas-back in the West, but have often
found them associated with various shoal-water
ducks. Their “call” is a soft, plaintive whistle of
two tones and three notes of nearly equal duration,
the first and second of the same ‘pitch, the third
about three tones lower; the second or middle
is strongly accented. They stool well to almost
any decoys, to mallard perhaps better than any
others, and may be decoyed by imitating their
notes or those of the mallard. Their flesh is ex-
cellent eating, but they soon spoil in warm wea-
ther if the entrails are not drawn. They may be

210 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

distinguished from others of the duck tribe by
their proportionally greater length of wing. A
slight blow brings them down, and as they fly
clustered together, several are often killed at a
discharge. Methods of hunting them similar to
that of mallards, as before described.

CHAPTER XIX.

GADWALL DUCK (ANAS STREPERA).
Local name, ‘* Gray Duek.’’

Apurr mate: Bill nearly as long as the head,
deeper than broad at the base, depressed to-
wards the end, the sides parallel, the tip: rounded.

Head of moderate size, oblong, compressed.
Neck rather long and slender. Body elongated,
slightly depressed. Feet very short; tibia bare
for about a quarter of an inch; tarsus very short,
compressed.

Plumage dense, soft, blended. Feathers of the
head short, of the occiput and nape a little
elongated, of the lower parts glossy, with the
extremities of the filaments stiffish, Wings
rather long, little curved, pointed. Tail short,
rounded, of sixteen strong, pointed feathers, of
which the middle pair project considerably.

Bill bluish-black. Iris reddish-hazel. Feet dull
orange-yellow. Claws brownish-black. Webs
dusky. Head light yellowish-red; the upper part

and nape much darker and barred with dusky ;
ail

212 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

the rest dotted with the same. The lower part
of the neck, the sides of the body, the fore part
of the back, and the outer scapulars, undulated
with dusky and yellowish-white; the bands much
larger and semi-circular on the fore part of the
neck and breast; the latter white. The abdo-
men faintly and minutely undulated with brown-
ish-gray. The elongated scapulars brownish-gray,
broadly margined with brownish-red. The hind
part of the back brownish-black. The rump all
round and the upper and lower tail-coverts blu-
ish-black. The anterior smaller wing-coverts are
light-gray, undulated with dusky; the middle
coverts of a deep, rich chestnut-red; primary
coverts brownish-gray ; outer secondary coverts
darker and tinged with chestnut; the rest black,
excepting the inner, which are gray. Tail brown-
ish-gray, the feathers margined with paler.

Length to end of tail, 212 inches; extent of
wings, 85; weight, 1 pound 10 ounces.

Aputt ¥FemMaLE: The female is considerably
smaller. Bill dusky along the ridge; dull yel-
lowish-orange on the sides. Iris hazel. Feet of
a fainter tint than in the male. Upper part of
head brownish-black, the feathers edged with light
reddish-brown. A streak over the eye, the cheeks,

GADWALL DUCK. 213

the upper part of the neck all round, light yel-
lowish-red tinged with gray, and marked with
small, longitudinal, dusky streaks, which are faint-
er on the throat, that part being grayish-white.
The rest of the neck, the sides, all the upper
parts, and the lower rump feathers, brownish-
black, broadly margined with yellowish-red. Wing-
coverts brownish-gray, edged with paler; the
wing otherwise as in *the male, but the specu-
lum fainter. Tail feathers and their coverts dusky,
laterally obliquely indented with pale brownish-
red and margined with reddish-white.

Length to end of tail, 191 inches; extent of
wings, 31. :

The habits of this bird seem to have been
rather imperfectly understood by several of our
best authorities on sporting and natural history ;
Forrester asserting it to be “a solitary bird,
rarely congregating in large bodies,” while Wilson
describes it as being “a very quick diver, so
much: so as to make it difficult to be shot.” Both
these authors state their knowledge of this species to
be very limited, so I consider their remarks to be the
result of information received from others less care-
ful in their observations or not sufficiently fami-
liar with its ways. 1 can readily conceive how

214 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

such a judgment might be formed, as the habits
of wild fowl often vary in different localities. In
the more northern States I have seldom seen
gray ducks assembled more than four or five to-
gether, but consider this as being due to their
general scarcity; for in Tennessee and Southern
Missouri, the former State more especially, I have
- found them associated in flocks of thousands upon
their feeding-grounds, more numerous than all
other ducks, and, like mallards, separated into
smaller flocks of various numbers when flying
from one feeding-ground to another. As to their
habits of diving, though having hunted them one
season for three. months steadily in preference to
all others, on account of their greater numbers, I
have never yet seen one dive either for the pur-
pose of feeding or to escape being shot, unless
having been previously wounded, when they be-
come exceedingly cunning, and are then as expert
as the widgeon or mallard in diving. It is a
favorite trick with them to seize the roots of
the weeds when wounded and under water, and
cling to them, if possible, until the hunter has
passed on. They decoy exceedingly well to mal-
lard decoys, and come readily to the mallard eall,
which resembles their own very closely.

GADWALL DUCK. 215

The various methods of hunting them are very
similar to these already described for other shoal-
water ducks. In Tennessee, next to decoy-shoot-
ing, my favorite way was to suddenly yet cau-
tiously come upon them in a boat from behind
the numerous little points along the lake-shore,
when they would be compelled to fly by me in
escaping, not being able to rise so nearly per-
pendicularly above the high cypress timber which
bordered the little coves (or pockets, as they are
called by the natives) where they were almost
always to be found feeding. Many opportunities,
too, for sitting-shots at flocks were had in this
sport, and quite large numbers were often bagged
during the day. Light “dug-outs” are used by
the natives of this locality for shooting from, but
it is impossible to shoot broadside from them
with a heavy gun without upsetting ; consequently
many opportunities for flying shots are lost, and
for this reason they are not as useful as the
regular hunting-skiff.

Gadwalls command a good price in market,
and are ranked with the mallard and redhead;
these, with the canvas-backs, are denominated “ large
ducks” by the hunters and market-men, all others
being classified as small ones. Their notes and

216 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

manner of flight resemble that of mallards; their
food, habits of feeding, etc. (excepting diving),
similar to those of the widgeon. They die easily
on being struck, and are commonly tame and
easy to approach. St. Louis “fives” are the pro-
per sized shot.

CHAPTER XX.

SHOVELLER DUCK (ANAS CLYPEATA).

Local names : ‘‘Spoonbills,”’ “ Butler Ducks” (the last a name of
quite recent origin).

Aputt mate: Bill longer than the head, higher
than broad at the base, depressed and much wi-
dened towards the end, where its breadth is
doubled.

Head of moderate size, oblong, compressed,
rounded above; neck moderate; body rather full,
slightly depressed. Feet short, stout, placed a lit-
tle behind the centre of the body; legs bare a
little above the joint; tarsus very short. Hind
toe very small, with a narrow, free membrane.

Plumage dense, soft, and elastic; of the head
and neck short, blended, and splendent; of the
occiput and nape considerably elongated; of the
other parts in general broad and rounded. Wings
of mioderate length, acute. Tail short, rounded,
of fourteen acute feathers, of which the two mid-
dle extend five-twelfths of an inch béyond the

next.
217

218 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

Bill grayish-black, tinged with yellow. Iris red-
dish-orange. Feet vermilion; claws dusky. Head
and upper part of neck deep-green with purplish
reflections, the top of the head of a darker tint,
with less vivid gloss. A longitudinal band on
the hind neck and the back, grayish-brown, the
feathers edged with paler. The rump and upper
tail-coverts greenish-black. Tail feathers grayish-
brown, irregularly variegated and margined with
grayish-white, that color enlarging on the outer
feathers. Lower part of neck pure white; breast
and middle part of abdomen dull purplish-chest-
nut. A large patch of white on each side of the
rump, with a band of the same towards the tail.
Lower tail-coverts greenish-black, with bright green
and blue reflections; axillaries and lower wing-
coverts pure white.

Length to end of tail, 204 inches; extent of
wings, 314; weight, 1 pound 9 ounces.

Fematze: Bill dull yellowish-green. Iris paler
than in the male. Feet as in the male, but
lighter. The upper parts are blackish-brown, the
feathers edged with light reddish-brown;~ the
throat and sides of the head are light reddish-
brown, Which is the prevailing color over the
lower part of the neck, a portion of the breast,

SHOVELLER DUCK. 219

and the sides, of which, however, the feathers are
margined with dusky ; the middle of the breast
white. Smaller wing-coverts dull brownish-gray ;
alula and primaries as in the male; inner
secondaries brownish-black; the speculum as in
the male, but paler, and changing to blue; the
secondary coverts tipped with white. Tail nearly
as in the male.

Length to end of tail, 17 inches; extent of
wings, 294; weight, 1 pound 1 ounce.

Spoonbills are seldom found in large numbers,
but opportunities for shooting them will frequent-
ly occur when in the pursuit of other fowl.
They associate with mallards when feeding, and
their notes sound much alike. They fly very
closely and irregularly together, and when a
small flock comes to the decoys (for they decoy
and come to the mallard call exceedingly well),
the experienced hunter usually counts on secur-
ing fully half their number. A very slight
blow brings them down. In fact, I have fre-
quently seen whole flocks of five to eight indi-
viduals killed with both barrels. They are very
poor divers, even when wounded, and try to
escape by hiding, if possible. It is commonly

easy to approach them within favorable distance,

220 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

when feeding along the edge of the shore, by the
exercise of ordinary caution; and when fired at,
those unhurt spring at once perpendicularly into
the air some ten or fifteen feet before taking a
direct course away.

a

CHAPTER XXI.

DUSKY DUCK (ANAS OBSCURA).

Local name, ‘‘ Black Duck.”

Aputt mate: Bill about the length of the
head, higher than broad at the base, depressed
and widened towards the end, rounded at the tip.

Head of moderate size, oblong, compressed ;
neck rather long and slender. Body full, de-
pressed. Feet short, stout, placed a little behind
the centre of the body; legs bare a little above
the joint; tarsus short, a little compressed; hind
toe extremely small.

Plumage dense, soft, and elastic; on the head
and neck the feathers linear-oblong, on the other
parts in general broad and rounded. Wings of
moderate breadth and length, acute. Tail short,
much rounded, of eighteen acute feathers, none of
which are reserved.

Bill yellowish-green ; the unguis dusky. Iris
dark-brown. Feet orange-red; the webs dusky.
The upper part of the head is glossy brownish-

black, the feathers margined with light-brown;
221

222 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

the sides of the head and a band over the eye
are light grayish-brown, with longitudinal dusky
streaks; the middle of the neck is similar, but
more dusky. The general color is _ blackish-
brown, a little paler beneath, all the feathers
margined with pale reddish-brown. The wing-
coverts are grayish-dusky, with a faint tinge of
green; the ends of the secondary coverts velvet-
black. Primaries and their coverts blackish-
brown, with the shafts brown; secondaries darker ;
the speculum is green, blue, violet, or amethyst-
purple, according to the light in which it is
viewed, bounded by velvet-black; the feathers
also tipped with a narrow line of white. The
whole under surface of the wing and the axillaries
white.

Length to end of tail, 24} inches; extent of
wings, 384; weight, 3 pounds.

Avutr rematz: The female, which is somewhat
smaller, resembles the male in color, but is more
brown, and has the speculum of the same tints, but
without the white terminal line.

Length to end of tail, 22 inches; extent of
wings, 34}. :

In form and proportions the dusky duck is
very closely allied to the mallard.

DUSKY DUCK. 223

Though the black duck is not, strictly speaking,
a Western fowl, yet it is quite frequently found
there in company with mallards, and is generally
known amongst Western sporting-men by the
name of the black mallard. This is a mistaken
idea; it is a separate and distinct species.

In certain parts of the Eastern States they are,
in the proper season, very numerous, being, in
fact, to that part of the country what the mallards
are to the Western States, more numerous than
any other shoal-water ducks, and most eagerly
pursued by sportsmen. They are exceedingly
wary, and take alarm at the slightest noise, spring-
ing at once perpendicularly into the air, often to
a height of twenty feet, when they take a direct
course at great speed. Their habits in the West
are almost identical with those of the mallard,
and their food the same,

CHAPTER XXII.
TRUMPETER SWAN (CYGNUS BUCCINATOR).

Apvutt Mats: Bill longer than the head, higher
than broad at the base, depressed, and a little
widened towards the end, rounded at the tip.
Upper mandible with the dorsal line sloping; the
ridge very broad at the base, with a large de-
pression, narrowed between the nostrils, convex
towards the end; the sides nearly erect at the
-base, gradually becoming more horizontal and con-
vex towards the end.

Head of moderate size, oblong, compressed ;
neck extremely long and slender; body very
large, compact, depressed. Feet short, stout,
placed a little behind the centre of the body;
elegs bare an inch and a half above the joint;
tarsus short, a little compressed, covered all round
with angular scales, of which the posterior are
extremely smali, Hind toe extremely small, with
a very narrow membrane.

A portion of the forehead about half an inch in

224

TRUMPETER SWAN. 225

length, and the space intervening between the bill
and the eye, are bare. Plumage dense, soft, and
elastic; on the head and neck the feathers oblong,
acuminate; on the other parts in general broadly
ovate and rounded; on the back short and compact.
Wings long and broad; the anterior protuberance
of the first phalangeal bone very prominent; pri-
maries curved, stiff, tapering to an obtuse point,
the second longest, exceeding the first by half an
inch, and the third by a quarter of an inch;
secondaries very broad and rounded, some of the
inner rather pointed. Tail very short, graduated,
of twenty-four stiffish, moderately broad, pointed
feathers, of which the middle exceeds the lateral’
by two inches and a quarter,

Bill and feet black, the outer edges of the lower
mandible and the inside of the mouth yellowish
flesh-color. The plumage is pure white, excepting
the upper part of the head, which varies from
brownish red to white, apparently without refer-
ence to age or sex, as in cygnus Americanus and
anser hyperboreus.

Length to end of tail, 68 inches ; bill along the
ridge, 4;1,; from the eye to the tip, 6

Young after the first moult:

In winter the young has the bill black, with

226 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

the middle portion of the ridge, to the length of
“an inch and a half, light flesh-color, and a large,
elongated patch of light dull purple on each side;
the edge.of the lower mandible and the tongue
dull, yellowish flesh-color. The eye is dark-brown.
The feet dull yellowish-brown, tinged with olive;
the claws brownish-black, the webs blackish-brown.
The upper part of the head and the cheeks are
light reddish-brown, each feather having towards
its extremity a small, oblong, whitish spot, nar-
rowly margined with dusky; the throat nearly
white, as well as the edge of the lower eyelid.
The general color of fhe other parts is grayish-
white, slightly tinged with yellow; the upper part
of the neck marked with spots similar to those
on the head.

Length to end of tail, 524 inches; extent of
wings, 91; weight, 19 pounds 8 ounces, the bird
very poor.

The swan is the largest, most spotless, and
most elegantly formed of all wild fowl. No other
gives the sportsman so much pleasure to secure;
and as their general scarcity and extreme wari-
ness render their capture comparatively rare, espe-
cial pride and honor are attached to the event.
Though there are several different varieties in-

TRUMPETER SWAN. 227

cluded in the fauna of our country, their habits
are mainly alike, and 1 shall therefore deal only
with that variety I am most familiar with—the
cygnus buccinator, or trumpeter swan, the largest
of its kind, and most common to the valley of
the Mississippi.

The trumpeter swan first makes its appearance
from the north just pefore the first severe frosts,
and resorts during the day to the large open
bodies of water where it may sit far enough
from shore to feel secure from its numerous ene-
mies. In the early evening it either swims in
to the shoal water along.the edges to feed, or
takes flight to some neighboring ‘shallow pond or
slough for the same purpose. Its food, which it
never entirely submerges the body to obtain, con-
sists of the roots, leaves, and seeds of different
vegetables (particularly the roots of pond-weed),
aquatic insects, small, reptiles, and land-snails.
“Often it resorts to the land, and there picks
at the herbage, not sideways, as geese do, but
more in the manner of ducks and _ poultry.”
Their flight is commonly in form similar to that
of the wild goose, though much faster and well
elevated, particularly when over the land. When
alarmed, they are unable to rise or turn side-

228 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

ways at all suddenly. I once knew two swans
of separate flocks, coming from opposite directions,
to fly against each other, when one was so badly
hurt that he fell to the water, and was after-
wards captured by my hunting companion, a man
named Tyler. Tyler had seen one flock approach-
ing, and, as they came over his head, had fired
and killed one of their number, when almost im-
mediately the collision occurred with a flock which
he had hitherto unnoticed, and one fell, as before
stated. The confusion incident to his shooting
was no doubt the immediate cause of this rather
remarkable accident.

Swans invariably rise against the wind, and if
it be calm they are unable to lift themselves
above the water before flapping along upon its
surface many yards, during which the strokes of
their wings against the water produce a rapid
succession of loud crackling noises, which may be
distinctly heard a long distance. Advantage is
taken by the skilful sportsman of this habit of
rising against the wind, and if he can find them
sitting to leeward in some narrow river or slough,
whose banks are bordered with high timber,
he is almost certain to capture some of their
number. Paddling cautiously down-wind to-

TRUMPETER SWAN. 229

wards them along the shores and behind the
points, until as near as possible without exciting
observation, if still too far, he strikes out boldly
in line for them, urging his boat at its utmost
speed, and, though working his best at the paddle,
being careful to crouch low and avoid all un-
necessary movements. At sight of him the swans
do not usually rise immediately, but sit turning
about. perplexedly for a few seconds, as though
conscious of their danger, yet at a loss how to
escape from it; and finally, as their only expe-
dient—desperate, though preferable to remaining
where they are—they are compelled. to fly to-
wards him, with faint hopes, by keeping close to
the further shore, of passing in safety by. These
hopes, however, to their sorrow and the sports-
man’s joy, if he thoroughly understands his busi-
ness and follows it, are seldom fully realized.
His course, after they start from the water, is
simply to meet or head them, and when they
have arrived sufficiently near to choose his birds
and kill them. If he wishes one for food, a
cygnet (gray one) should be selected, for the
flesh of the young swan, though coarse, is tender
and exceedingly rich in flavor, whilé that of the
older ones is more tough and unsavory ; but if

230 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

the skin is the principal part wanted, the larger
and older the bird the better.

Another very common method of hunting swans
is to take a stand where they pass .and repass
from one pond to another. The same route is
nearly always taken, and during hard head-winds
they frequently fly quite low. They are very often,
too, driven by a strong side-wind quite near the
various points along the shores of the lakes which
they frequent, and many are thus killed. They
may also be approached, by using ordinary cau-
tion, in the sculling-float.

Single swans of this variety may fesquently be
turned from their course by imitating their notes,
which resemble greatly those of a trumpet; and
because of this peculiarity of note the name
“trumpeter” was given them.

Never shoot at swans when the breasts are pre-
sented. Wait until they have slightly passed you;
and if your gun is loaded with shot smaller than
No. 1, aim to strike them in the head or neck.
It is useless to shoot small shot at the body, where
the covering is so very thick. If the outside fea-
thers be plucked off carefully, a most beautiful
coat of snow-white down will be found under-
neath, fully an inch in thickness, and excelling in

TRUMPETER SWAN. 231

silky fineness all other fur. The skins with this
down remaining upon them form one of the chief
articles of export of the Hudson’s Bay Fur Com-
pany, and are used by the wealthy chiefly for
trimming outside winter garments. Skins of birds
killed in spring are more valuable than those of
fall birds, which are usually “ pin-feathery.”

CHAPTER XXIil.
THE CANADA GOOSE (ANSER CANADENSIS).
Commonly known as ‘‘The Wild Goose.”

Apvutt mate: Bill shorter than the head, rather
higher than broad at the base, somewhat conical,
depressed towards the end, rounded at the tip.

Head small, oblong, compressed. Neck long
and slender. Body full, slightly depressed. Feet
short, stout, placed behind the centre of the body;
legs bare a little above the tibio-tarsal joint;
tarsus short, a little compressed, covered all round
with angular, reticulated scales, which are smaller
behind; hind toe very small, with a narrow mem-
brane. Wings of moderate length, with an obtuse
protuberance at the flexure.

Plumage close, rather short, compact above,
blended on the neck and lower parts of the
body. The feathers of the head and neck very
narrow; of the back very broad and abrupt ;
of the breast and belly broadly rounded. Wings
when closed extending to about an inch from

232

THE CANADA GOOSE. 2338

the tail, acute. Tail very short, rounded, of
eighteen stiff, rounded, but acuminate feathers.

Bill, feet, and claws black. Iris chestnut-brown.
Head and two upper thirds of the neck glossy-
black. Forehead, cheeks, and chin tinged with
brown. «Lower eyelid white; a broad band of
the same across the throat to behind the eyes.
Rump and tail feathers also black. The general
color of the rest of the upper parts is grayish-
brown; the wing-coverts shaded into ash-gray ;
all the feathers terminally edged with very pale
brown; the lower part of the neck passing into
grayish-white, which is the general color of the
lower parts, with the exception of the abdomen,
which is pure white, the sides, which are pale
brownish-gray, the feathers tipped with white,
and the lower wing-coverts, which are also pale
brownish-gray. The margins of the rump and
the upper tail-coverts pure white.

In very old males I have found the breast of
a fine pale buff.

Length to end of tail, 43 inches; extent of
wings, 65; weight, 7 pounds.

Apvutt remaLe: The female is somewhat smaller
than the male, but similar in coloring, although
the tints are duller. The white of the throat is

234 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

tinged with brown; the lower parts are always
more gray, and the black of the head, neck,
rump, and tail is shaded with brown.

Length, 41 inches; weight, 53 pounds.

No one species of the whole family of wild
fowl is so familiar to the inhabitants of our
country as the wild goose, for they are to be
met with or seen upon their migrations in nearly
every State in our Union. Their form of flight
is generally in a straight line, with perhaps a
second one branching from the main one, thus:
id * £* * *, in either case led by an old gan-
der, who, after acting as guide and breaking the
way, as it were, through the air for a time,
drops back, and is relieved by another, who also
is relieved in turn. “In foggy weather or during
severe snow-storms they frequently appear to
get bewildered, and act as though they had lost
their way. On such occasions they often alight
to rest and recollect themselves.” Before alight-
ing from a long journey in a strange place,
they always commence cackling and honking
loudly, as though discussing the safety or advan-
tages of the place. They feed upon grass, grain,
pond-lily nuts, insects, and the roots of a pecu-
liar plant which grows in shallow, stagnant waters,

THE CANADA GOOSE, 235

and which is called by the hunters goose-flag.
When feeding, an old gander is usually placed
on guard, who warns them by an expressive-
honk of any threatening danger. They never
dive for food, but feed when on the water like
the shoal-water ducks, by immersing the head
and neck.

On the bars or flats of the Mississippi, where
they often resort in great numbers for sand to
aid in digesting their food, boxes are sunk near
the edge of the water, in which the hunter lies
in wait for them. He seldom fires, however,
unless they are over the land, as when they fall
into the water the swift current carries them so
far that the loss of much time and labor is oc-
casioned in recovering them. They are so heavy
to carry, and bring so poor a price—usually
about seventy-five cents each—besides being very
wary, thus making a decent remuneration for
pursuing them rather uncertain, that the market-
hunter seldom makes it an especial business,
unless at a time when ducks are scarce. For
the benefit of the novice I will describe some
of the methods employed in their capture, with
a few rules and hints.-

One of the best plans with those who under-

236 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

stand it is to use the sculling-float; the novice,
however, will need to be pretty thoroughly trained
‘before he can hope to be very fortunate, for scull-
ing upon wild fowl successfully is almost a science
in itself. One must thoroughly understand their
habits, and be able to determine by their various
actions or talk the state of their suspicions, and
so govern his approaches accordingly. I will give
a few of the principal rules, however, which will
be necessary for the novice to follow. Some minor
ones, which it is almost impossible to describe
here, I will leave him to learn from experience.
We will suppose him, fully equipped in his float,
to have discovered a flock of geese sitting in a
position favorable for his approach. His guns
(two or three should be used in this branch of
the sport) are properly loaded, and his float trim-
med, according to the season and the nature of
the locality, with flags, rice, or brush, as he may
deem least liable to excite suspicion; or, if in
winter, when masses of ice are floating about, by
a cake of ice laid judiciously across the bow.
He must now, if not already there, get to the
windward of the geese without their observing
him; then, taking care not to rock his boat or make
the least noise, proceed to scull down upon them

THE CANADA GOOSE. 237

almost directly with the wind. By their actions .
he must regulate his approach, whether fast or
slow. They may often huddle together, seemingly
to discuss the nature of the object approaching
them and the prudence of remaining; and then,
as though considering their fears groundless, may
spread apart again. If the hunter now uses due
caution, he will seldom fail to get within reason-
able gunshot; but on their huddling close to-
gether, stretching their necks, and turning about
head to wind, he may be assured they intend to
rise, and if he is within distance, as soon as they
turn he must be ready to fire. Turning the bow
slightly by a quick stroke of the oar to favor his
awkward position for shooting, and grasping his
heaviest gun, he rises quickly, and pours in both
barrels as rapidly as possible, yet taking timé to
select the thickest portion of the flock, and to
deliver his loads with most killing effect. Then
instantly seizing his second gun, he is to secure
as many as -possible as they fly by or turn from
him. If he is possessed of a third gun, he will first
kill his most active cripples; then, after securing
the wounded, he may gather the dead. It is a
prevailing idea amongst sportsmen that geese,
and in fact all wild fowl, should always be ap-,

238 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

_ proached from the leeward to guard against their
exquisite sense of smell. This the wild-fowler
never need to bother himself about. Their sense
of smell may be exceedingly acute, but 1 doubt
very much their ability to recognize danger by
such means. They possess, however, a remark-
able sense of hearing, and often take alarm at
the least unusual sound; for this reason one can
approach with less caution from the leeward.
This raises the question, Why, if we need to use
more caution, do we approach from the wind-
ward in our sculling-float? Simply because they
are obliged to rise against the wind. If we were
to approach from the leeward, they would na-
turally swim away from us, and would give us
little .or no warning when they intended to rise,
besides, seldom allowing us to get as near as
though we approached from the opposite side,
being loath to fly towards the object of their sus-
picions until they are obliged to. Another thing:
besides our poorer chances of a family shot with
our first gun, our opportunity for using the
second is entirely lost. I would particularly im-
press on the mind of the novice the importance
of looking into the whys and wherefores and

> studying the reasons of things pertaining to wild-

THE CANADA GOOSE. 239

fowl shooting; he will thereby learn \to avoid
difficulties, and to take advantage of opportuni-
ties which he might otherwise overlook. His pro-
gress in the art will be much more rapid and his
success more certain.

Geese are particularly fond ef young rye and
winter wheat, and in the Western country where
these are cultivated to any great extent good
shooting may often be had. When the ponds begin
to freeze over in the early winter is the best
season. The hunter usually selects a position in
a corner of some one of the numerous rail-fences,
or amongst the high “horse-weeds” bordering the
field, and, after setting out his decoys (if he is
fortunate enough to be possessed of any), patiently
awaits their coming. On their approach he com-
mences to call, and seeing his decoys they come
down fearlessly: those he kills he props up with
sticks to decoy others. If he chances to secure a
wing-broken one, he ties him to a stake amongst
his other decoys, and when other geese come in
sight the poor cripple never fails to call loudly.
A box sunk near the centre of the field is better,
if it can be fixed conveniently, than a blind near
the edges, for the geese are inclined to avoid the
fences as much as possible. At this time of the

240 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

year the air-holes in the river, where they come
to get water and to roost at night, are often better
places than the fields for securing a good bag.
They come to the decoys there with less fear or
suspicion. When wounded, geese dive easily, and
often swim long distances under water. Oppor-
tunities for shooting them will frequently occur
when in the pursuit of ducks. No. 1 (Chicago) I
consider the best-sized shot for goose shooting,
though B or BB may with propriety be used in
large or very close-shooting guns.

I am astonished that Audubon has ascribed so
little weight to the wild goose. I have seldom
seen. one weighing less than eight or nine pounds,
and have seen many over twelve; and one which
I killed myself, the largest [ ever saw, weighed
eighteen pounds,

SHootinc GEESE FROM SCULLING FLoaT,

CHAPTER XXIV.

THE WHITE-FRONTED GOOSE (ANSER ALBIFRONS).
The ‘Brant,’ amongst Western sportsmen.

Avutt Mate: Bill shorter than the head, much
higher than broad at the base, somewhat conical,
depressed towards the end, rounded at the tip.

Head of moderate size, oblong, compressed.
Neck rather long and slender. Body full, slightly
depressed. Feet rather short, strong, placed rather
behind the centre of the body; legs bare a little
above the joint; tarsus rather short, a little com-
pressed, covered all round with angular reticulated
scales, which are smaller behind.

Plumage close, full, compact above, blended on
the neck and lower part of the body, very short
on the head. Feathers of the head and neck very
narrow, on the latter part disposed in oblique
series separated by grooves; of the back very
broad and abrupt; of the breast and belly broadly
rounded. Wings rather long and broad. Tail
very short, rounded, of sixteen broad, rounded

feathers.
241

242 GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

Bill carmine-red, the unguis of both mandibles
white. Edges of eyelids dull orange. Iris hazel.
Feet orange, webs lighter, claws white. Head
and neck rich grayish-brown, the upper part of
the former darker; a white band margined with
blackish-brown on the anterior part of the fore-
head along the bill. The general color of the
back is deep-gray, the feathers of its fore part
broadly tipped with grayish-brown, the rest with
grayish-white; the hind part of the back pure
deep-gray. . Wings grayish-brown, but towards
the edge ash-gray, as are the primary coverts and
outer webs of the primaries; the rest of the pri-
maries and the secondaries are grayish-black, the
latter with a narrow edge of grayish-white, the
former edged and tipped with white. Breast, ab-
domen, lower tail-coverts, sides of the rump, and
upper tail-coverts white, but the breast and sides
patched with brownish-black; on the latter inter-
mixed with grayish-brown feathers.

Length to end of tail, 27} inches; weight, 5}
pounds.

Avutt FEMALE: The female, which is some-
what smaller, resembles the male. The white
margins of the wing-feathcrs not so distinct.

Weight, 4 pounds 4 ounces.

THE WHITE-FRONTED GOOSE. 243

By Audubon the white-fronted goose (anser
albifrons) and the snow-goose (anser hyperbo-
reus) have been classified and described (and 1
think properly so) as two entirely distinct and
separate species; though many naturalists, seeing
in them many striking points of resemblance,
and being confused by their varying appearances,
produced by age and change of season, coupled
with their lack of familiarity with them whilst
breeding, have adjudged them to be identical in
character, of but one species, and differing only in
degree of maturity. The opinion of Audubon is,
I believe, that most generally sanctioned by Wes-
tern sportsmen, amongst whom, however, both
species receive the general appellation of “ brant,”
the white-fronted being familiarly known as _ the
harlequin variety, from the irregular, patchy col-
oring of their breast-feathers, while the snow-
geese are all called fish-brant, and as such are
never pursued for the table. The younger ones
of this latter species are further characteristically
distinguished as bald brant or white-heads.

To the peculiar habits of the snow-goose I have
paid but little attention, being rather a poor
naturalist, and led to consider them by my hunt-
ing companions as unworthy of pursuit. I have

244. GAME—SHOAL-WATER FOWL.

frequently, however, seen them feeding upon
grain, and observing that Audubon and several
others have pronounced them excellent eating, am
inclined to think the prevailing idea amongst
hunters in regard to the fishy flavor of their
flesh to be poorly founded.

The flesh of the white-fronted goose is, I think,
acknowledged by all who have partaken of it to
be delicate and well-flavored. They feed almost
entirely by day, and chiefly upon grass, grain,
and other vegetable matter, which they procure
upon the low, wet prairies and _ grain-fields;
leaving for the purpose, early in the morning,
the large lakes and ponds where they roost at
night, and returning to them again in the after-
noon about sundown. On these journeys, which
are often several miles in length, they fly high
in air, much in the manner of wild geese (whose
wing-strokes, however, are not quite so fast), and
seldom lower their flight until directly over their
feeding-grounds or roosting-ponds, when all dart
down together in a confused, zigzag, and irregu-
lar manner, cackling loudly, and uttering the
while most discordant sounds. (This habit is also
characteristic of the snow-geese, and perhaps in

a greater degree ; their notes, however, are widely

THE WHITE-FRONTED GOOSE. 245

different.) When their feeding-grounds and roost-
ing-places are near together, they may fly quite
low, particularly if against a strong head-wind,
and good sport may then be had on the pass-
ways. Single ones may frequently be called
within gun-shot, when coming in to roost (though
never when in the fields), by imitating their call-
notes correctly—an achievement, however, rather
difficult to most persons, as they are pitched in so
high:a key. A slight resemblance to the note may
be expressed by the sounds ela, eleck, ela, ela,
eleck. They are exceedingly acute, sharp-sighted
birds, and can “ climb” out of gun-shot (as the
hunters term their flying upwards when frightened
at the appearance of danger beneath them) faster
than most wild-fowl.

In the corn-fields they are frequently shot from
holes in the ground or from blinds built of corn-
stalks in a manner similar to that described in
the foregoing chapter. No. 3 shot, Chicago size,
is sufficiently large for brant shooting, as these
birds are not very tenacious of life. They are

rarely found along the Eastern coast.

CHAPTER XXV.

CANVAS-BACK DUCK (FULIGULA VALISNERIA, STEPHENS ,

ANAS VALISNERIA, WILSON).

Aputr MALE: Bill as long as the head, deeper
than broad at the base, the margins parallel,
slightly dilated towards the end, which is rounded,
the frontal angles rather narrow and pointed.

Head rather large, compressed, convex above.
Eyes small. Neck of moderate length, rather
thick. Body full, depressed. Wings small. Feet
very short, strong, placed rather far behind; tar-
sus very short, compressed, anteriorly with narrow
scutella continuous with those of the middle toe,
and having another series commencing half-way
down and continuous with those of the outer toc,
the rest reticulated with angular scales. Hind
toe small, with an inner expanded margin or web;
middle toe nearly double the length of the tar-
sus, outer a little shorter. Claws small, com-
pressed, that of the first toe very small and

246

CANVAS-BACK DUCK. 247

curved, of the third toe larger and more ex-
panded than the rest.

Plumage dense, soft, blended. Feathers of the
upper part of the head small and rather compact,
of the rest of the head and neck small, blended,
and glossy. Wings shortish, narrow, pointed; pri-
mary quills strong, tapering, the first longest, the
second almost as long, the rest rapidly diminish.
ing; secondary quills broad and rounded, the
inner elongated and tapering. Tail very short,
much rounded or wedge-shaped, of fourteen feath-
ers.

Bill black, with a tinge of green. Iris bright
carmine. Upper part of the head and a space
along the base of the bill dusky; a small, trans-
verse band of white on what is called the chin;
the rest of the head and the neck all round for
more than half its length of a rich brownish-
red. A broad belt of brownish-black occupies
the lower part of the neck and the fore part of
the body, of which the posterior part is the samo
color, more extended on the back than under the
tail. Back and scapulars white or grayish-white,
very minutely traversed by undulating black lines;
wing-coverts similar, but darker. Alular feathers

grayish-brown. Primary quills brownish-black,

248 GAME—DEEP- WATER FOWL.

tinged with gray towards the base; the shaft
brown. Secondaries ash-gray, whitish, and undu-
lated with dark-gray towards the end; five of
them having also a narrow stripe of black along
their outer margin. Tail brownish-gray, towards
the end ash-gray. The lower parts white, the
sides and abdomen marked with fine undulating
gray lines, of which there are faint traces on most
of the other feathers. The fect are grayish-blue,
tinged with yellow.

Length to end of tail, 22 inches; extent of
wings, 33; weight, 33 pounds.

Apvutt remMaLe: The female has the bill colored
as in the male; the iris reddish-brown; the feet
lead-gray; the upper parts grayish-brown; the
top of the head darker, its anterior part light-
reddish; the chin whitish; the neck grayish-brown,
as are the sides and abdomen; the breast white;
wing-coverts brownish-gray; primary quills gray-
ish-brown, dusky at the end; secondary, quills
ash-gray, five of the inner with an external black
margin, the innermost grayish-brown like th> back,
and with some of the scapulars faintly undulated
with darker. ,Tail grayish-brown, paler at the
end; axillars and smaller under wing-coverts white,

as in the male.

CANVAS-BACK DUCK. 249

Length to end of tail, 201 inches; extent of
wings, 302; weight, 23 pounds.

No one species of the whole duck tribe so
sorely puzzles the uninitiated to secure as_ the
wary, gamey, and highly-prized canvas-back. The
mallard and the various other shoal-water ducks
he frequently finds opportunities for “ bush-whack-
ing” along .the shallow edges of the ponds and
sloughs where there may be sufficient cover; or
he may catch them flying low down over the
narrow creeks or bushy points, where, if he is
sufficiently skilful, he may also manage to secure
a brace or two. With the deep-water varieties, and
the canvas-back most especially, the case is decidedly
different. They are too well contented to sit tan-
talizingly out of reach near the middle of the
open waters, and rarely venture into the smaller
ponds, where they would be obliged to sit in too
close proximity to the shores, knowing far too
well the danger to be apprehended from such a
proceeding. The art here, then, is not simply
to aim straight and pull the trigger at the proper
moment, but it is also to know how to approach
them, or induce them to approach you within
gunshot, with least loss of time and labor.

From the circumstance of the lake-shores being

250 GAME—DEEP-WATER FOWL.

almost invariably inundated in the spring or cov-
ered with high weeds and brush, thus leaving no
bare ground upon which to operate the system
of toling canvas-backs, as practised upon the
Chesapeake Bay, is never made use of in’ the
West. As it may, however, prove of interest to
my readers to know how the sport is conducted,
I will quote Dr. Sharpless’s vivid description,
never myself having had the pleasure of witness-
ing it:

“A spot is usually selected where the birds have
not been much disturbed, and where they feed at
three or four hundred yards from, and can approach
to within forty or fifty yards of, the shore, as
they will never come nearer than they can swim
freely. The higher the tides and the calmer the
day the better, for they feed closer to the shores;
and see more distinctly. Most persons on these
waters have a race of small, white or liver-colored
dogs, which they familiarly call the toler breed,
but which appear to be the ordinary poodle. These
dogs are extremely playful, and are taught to run
up 1d down the shore, in sight of the ducks,
either by the motion of the hand or by throwing
chips from side to side. They soon become per-
fectly acquainted with their business, and, as they

CANVAS-BACK DUCK. 251

discover the ducks approaching them, make their
jumps less high, till they almost crawl on the
ground to prevent the birds discovering what the
object of their curiosity may be. This disposition
to examine rarieties has been taken advantage of
by using a red or black handkerchief by day and
a white one by night in toling, or even by gently
plashing the water on the shore. The nearest
ducks soon notice the strange appearance, raise
their heads, gaze intently for a moment, and then
start for the shore, followed by the rest. On
many occasions I have seen thousands of them
swimming in a solid mass direct to the object;
and by removing the dog further into the grass
they have been brought within fifteen feet of the
bank. When they have approached to about
thirty or forty yards, their curiosity is generally
satisfied, and, after swimming up and down for a
few seconds, they retrograde to their former sta-
tion. The moment to shoot is while they present
their sides, and forty or fifty ducks have often
been killed by a small gun. The black-heads tole
the most readily, then the red-heads, next the can-
vas-backs, and the bald-pates rarely. To prevent
the dogs, whilst toling, from running in, they

are‘ not allowed to go into the water to bring out

252 GAME—DEEP-WATER FOWL,

the ducks, but another breed of large dogs, of the
Newfoundland and water-spaniel mixture, are em-
ployed.”

The usual method of taking canvas-back in the
West is by the aid of decoys, shooting cither
from a sink-box—a battery built of brush, etc.,
on a paddle-boat—or from a blind built in some
favorablé position along the edges of the willows.
The first named is but little used, however, on
account of the frequent difficulty of conveying it
from one lake to another, part of the distance per-
haps being through thick brush or willows or
across dry ridges. Then, as it necessitates the ser-
vices of two men to work it, but few more ducks
can be killed from it than by other methods
where each man may hunt separately.

When ducks get bedded (d.¢., in the habit of
sitting in large bodies in the same place for pur-
poses of feeding or otherwise) in the large, open
waters, and act shy of decoys placed near the
shore, a common paddle-boat covered with brush
and weeds answers nearly as well as the sink-box,
and costs much less labor to prepare; and, when
done with, the brush may be thrown off, and the
labor of towing about the “sink” avoided. Some
of my readers may wish to try the sink, however,

CANVAS-BACK DUCK. 253

so I will give a brief description of its build
and the manner of using it.

The box in which the shooter lies should be of
pine, sides and bottom one inch and ends two
inches thick, and of proportions adapted to the
size of the person to occupy it; six feet long,
two feet wide, and thirteen inches deep being
proper for an ordinary-sized man. Along each
side and across the ends, one inch below the top
edge of the box, two-by-four-inch pine timbers
are fastened, framed together to equal height, and
extending on all sides two and a half feet from the
box. This frame should be slanted off on top
fully an inch towards the ends to give a pitch
to the deck, and on the under side should also be
reduced in the same manner to make it as light
as possible for handling. The frame is next
covered with a pine platform a half-inch thick,
which is further strengthened by the addition of
a brace reaching from the centre of the box on
each side. This platform is bounded on the three
sides by hinged wings of cotton-cloth, which are
two feet wide, fastened to a pine frame-work, and .
so constructed as to admit of being folded back
upon the platform when not in use. At the fourth
side or head of the sink the wing, instead of

254 GAME—-DEEP-WATER FOWL.

being made entirely of cloth, is partly composed
of two halfinch pine boards, eight inches
wide, hinged together, and extending the width
of the platform, to which the inner board is
fastened by strong hinges; the rest of the wing,
which is equal in width to the others, is of
cloth, and all the wings are joined together by
angle-pieces of the same material. A border of
sheet-lead, three inches in height, is to be tacked
completely around the outside edge of the box,
and inclined outwards, as the flare of a boat,:to
throw off any little ripple that might otherwise
wash into the box. Across the head, and about
half-way round the sides, where the tendency of
the waves to wash in is always greatest, a
second circular rim of lead four inches high, as
a double precaution, should also be fastened and
flared like the other. This outside rim should be
placed about fifteen inches from the end of the
box. A short rope, about six feet in length, is
fastened at each end, about three feet apart, to
the cross-timber at the head of the box, to the
middle of which rope the anchor-line is attached.
A second anchor is also sometimes used, which
should be fastened to the foot of the platform.
This, however, except in very shallow water, is

CANVAS-BACK DUCK. 255

needless. To finish, the whole thing is now to be
painted as near the color of the water as _pos-
sible, and when dry is ready for use.

A bed of hay or straw is prepared in the
bottom, on which the shooter is to lie, a pillow
placed at the end for his head, and the sink is next
towed out and anchored in the desired position.
The decoys are next set out, the guns and am-
munition transferred from the paddle-boat, and
after adding sufficient ballast with the weight of
the shooter to sink the edge of the platform to
the surface of the water, the shooter takes his
place, and his companion leaves him.. The com-
panion’s duty now is to rout up the ducks oc-
casionally when they get settled; to secure the
cripples, if possible; to pick up the dead; and
to release the shooter when necessary.

From the position of the shooter it is evident
he can only shoot in very limited directions ;
the decoys must therefore be so arranged that
ducks coming to them will approach in such a
manner as shall be most favorable to his con-
dition for shooting. The arrangement fulfilling
this requirement most perfectly is as follows:
not less than one hundred decoys should be
used, placed square to the right fifteen yards, to

256 GAME—DEEP-WATER FOWL,

the left twenty-five yards, from this line narrow-
ing gradually to a point about ten yards to the
left of a direct line to leeward, and at a distance
of thirty-five yards from the sink; from this
point, three or four tolers, ten to fifteen yards
apart, to leeward, and inclined towards the direction
the ducks mainly approach from or pass by. Near
the centre of this triangle, which is the figure
the flock now represents, the decoys should be
scattered a trifle more than at other places, and
the ducks will endeavor to alight there. A
few decoys should be fastened to the platform
of the sink.

This arrangement of decoys is the one most suit-
able for sink-box shooting. No matter on which
side ducks may be, when they observe the decoys
they almost invariably approach to alight, against
the wind, if it be blowing at all; and as the de-
coys are now placed, they will come in over or
very close to the leeward point of the triangle,
because in so approaching that point is nearest to
them, and they seldom take a roundabout course
without a reason for it. More decoys are sét to
the left of the sink, because it is much easier for
the shooter to swing his gun on that side than
towards the right, as he might be obliged to do

CANVAS-BACK DUCK. 257

if there were equal numbers on each side, when
the ducks would be as likely to turn one way
as the other. If during the day the wind should
change, it will be necessary to alter the position
of the battery. This may be done without taking
up the decoys, if they are arranged as directed ;
all that is necessary being to shift the box to
windward.

When ducks are flying by, especially on very
calm days, a good way to attract their attention to
the decoys is to raise your hands above the edges
of the box and wave them quickly to and fro, imi-
tating as near as may be the action of ducks when
flapping their wings or when alighting on the water.
This turning involuntarily the eyes of the passing
ducks towards the decoys, they come in readily.

The shooter should be careful not to rise up too
soon when ducks are approaching. Wait until they
are over the “tail” decoys, and if there is a
large flock, and they choose to alight, let them do
so; and when you catch a sufficient number to-
gether, rise and fire quickly. A second gun
often adds considerably to the score, if the shooter
can handle it rapidly. A strap fastened across
the top of one or both feet will help him in rising.

The method of shooting canvas-back from the

258 GAME—DEEP-WATER FOWL.

paddle-boat covered with brush is so similar to
sink-box shooting, that it would simply be a waste
of space to describe it; and the covering of the
boat is so simple a matter that I will trust to
the ingenuity of my readers without boring them
with tedious explanations. I will just remark the
position of shooting from the paddle-boat had
better be from the knees than from a sitting
position; bending forward when ducks may be
approaching, instead of lying at length.
Canvas-back generally feed quite near the edges
of the willows, as their food, which consists
mainly of the bulbous roots of a certain water-
grass, does not grow in the deeper waters, but
rather in those portions of the lakes that are
left bare during the summer and early fall
months, when the water is generally low. During
the fall, unless the water is unusually high, they
are rarely seen; but in spring, when the melt-
ing of the winter’s snow and ice, and the
heavy rains, have raised the river and inun-
dated these grassy plats, they may be often scen
in flocks of thousands. When much disturbed,
they feed mostly by night or early morning and
evening, and sit during the middle of the day
near the middle of the open waters opposite to

CANVAS-BACK DUCK. 259

their feeding-grounds. Before they become too
wary, at intervals during the day small parties,
as though unable to withstand the temptation
any longer, get up and fly into these feeding-
grounds, when, if the sportsman is prepared for
them with plenty of decoys, he may have excel-
lent sport and secure a goodly number; but as
it grows later in the season, they learn better,
and come in less frequently, content to wait
until evening, when, instead of taking to wing
and flying ‘in, the whole body swim in cautiously
together. The blind for shooting in during the
day should be selected with care where they
wish to feed—not to one side or the other, or,
instead of coming in to the decoys, many may
pass by, and drop down out of range where
they have found by experience their food grows
in greater profusion.

As to the building of the blind and the ar-
rangement of the decoys, both have been fully
explained in the chapters especially devoted to
those subjects, so I will not repeat them here.
I shall, however, add a few hints as to the pe-
culiar habits of the ducks when approaching de-
coys and at various other times, and will en-
deavor to explain how to best apply a know-

260 GAME—DEEP-WATER FOWL.

ledge of these habits to practical and profitable
use.

Canvas-backs never set their wings and drop
back from a height nearly perpendicular, as mal-
lards and some other shoal-water ducks often
do; but, when intending to alight, always lower
as they approach, and if not sufficiently low
when first over the decoys, sheer off and circle
back again. They also frequently pass over or
by the decoys low down, seemingly to a novice as
though not seeing them, when, after going perhaps
a hundred yards or more, if everything appears
correct to them, they will turn about suddenly,
and come in as though intending to stay. The ex-
perienced hunter, who understands this habit, also
knows from their actions whether they will pro-
bably turn back again, or go on because of having
seen something to alarm them, and so he either
reserves his fire until they come the second time,
or else improves his poorer, though only, chance
as they first pass by. Through ignorance of this,
many wild shots are coaxed from the novice which,
if held back for a moment, might be turned to
much better account.

Just before they get ready to alight, raise your
head and shoulders slowly above the blind, and

CANVAS-BACK DUCK. 261

with the butt of the gun to the shoulder, and the
muzzle just under the flock, be prepared to take
advantage on the instant of their bunching or
crossing. They will take no notice of you what-
ever, if you rise slowly and do not attract their
attention by the suddenness of your movements,
their eyes at the time being entirely occupied with
the decoys or selecting a particular spot in which
to light. If the flock is large, it may be advisable
to allow them to do this, and when a sufficient
number swim together, fire away. Frequently at
the report of the gun, if they do not see the shoot-
er, those unhurt may jump up and immediately
drop down again, as though thinking there was
no need of leaving while their companions, the
decoys, appeared so quiet and contented; and if
you are quick-motioned, you may often reload
your breech-loader and secure more before they
discover their mistake. This I have done repeat-
edly.

On rainy days they appear very uneasy, fly-
ing about continually, and dart to the decoys
readily. It is on these days the big counts are
usually made.

Cripples should be “shot over again” as soon
as possible, and be careful not to let them see

262 GAME—DEEP-WATER FOWL.

you before firing, if you can help it. When
first wounded, they usually sit with head erect,
looking for the cause of their misfortune, and
are then easily killed ; but as soon as they dis-
cover the shooter, they dive, and, if only winged,
it is useless to follow them, unless, however, the
water is perfectly calm, when the ripple occasion-
ed by their coming to the surface can be readily
seen. Even then it takes hard work and a long
chase to secure them, and if ducks are flying
well it is better to let them go. If struck in
the body, they may be more easily tired, and
then captured. They are exceedingly expert divers,
and can swim under water to much longer dis-
tances than any others of the vegetable-eating
ducks.

When chasing cripples, do not allow them to
remain long enough at the surface of the water
to regain their breath, if you can by shouting
prevent it, unless you are ready to shoot them
over again, which, by the way, you should always
be prepared to do, if desirous, before leaving
your blind. Their course under water ycu may
frequently follow by the minute air-bubbles_ es-
caping from them and coming to the surface
when they begin to get exhausted. If you are

CANVAS-BACK DUCK. 263

prepared for their rising, and they come up suf-
ficiently nigh, you may kill them by striking
them across the head or neck with the edge of
the paddle.

Frequently birds start off with the flock as
though unhurt, and, after flying a few hundred
yards, fall unnoticed dead or mortally wounded.
It is advisable, therefore, to watch for some dis-
tance any you may think are struck, to see whether
they may be recovered or not. They are ex-
ceedingly tenacious of life, and require hard hit-
ting to secure them. No. 8 or 4 Chicagos are
about the proper-sized shot to use for them.

Dogs are never used for retrieving canvas-
backs in the West; the shooting is always done
from a boat, when it would be inconvenient and
unpleasant to have the dog continually getting in
and out while wet and dripping with water; and
as for their catching a crippled canvas-back, it
is out of the question.

Canvas-backs are never known to breed along
the Mississippi River or its tributaries, but be-
take themselves to some unknown regions of the
fay north where the white man never molests
them. About the first of November, with their
young, which are now almost fully grown, they

264 GAME—DEEP-WATER FOWL.

take a direct course to the waters of the Chesa-
peake Bay and its confluent streams, rarely stop-
ping upon the way, and here remain feeding
upon their favorite food, the roots of the wild
celery, until driven further south by the increas-
ing cold weather. About Galveston Bay and the
mouth of the Mississippi they are very plenti-
ful, particularly if the weather on the Eastern
coast has been very severe. In spring, instead
of taking their roundabout course back north by
the way of the Chesapeake, many choose the more
direct route up the Mississippi, stopping here and
there along the back waters of this river and its
tributaries, where food may be found most abun-
dant ; and in proportion to the severity of the
previous winter at the East will they be found

here in greater or less profusion.

CHAPTER XXVI.
RED-HEADED DUCK (ANAS FERINA).

Aputr mate: Bill as long as the head, deeper
than broad at the base; the margins parallel,
slightly dilated towards the end, which is rounded ;
the frontal angles rather narrow and pointed.

Head rather large, compressed, convex above.
Eyes small. Neck of moderate length, rather
thick. Body full, depressed. Wings small. Feet
very short, strong, placed rather far behind; tar-
sus very short, compressed anteriorly with narrow
scutella, continuous with those of the middle toe, and
having another series commencing half-way down,
and continuous with those of the outer toe, the rest
reticulated with angular scales; hind’ toe small,
with an inner expanded margin or web; middle
toe nearly double the length of the tarsus; outer,
a little shorter. Claws small, compressed, that of
the first toe very small and curved, of the third
toe larger and more expanded than the rest.

Plumage dense, soft, blended. Feathers of the

265

266 GAME—DEEP-WATER FOWL.

upper part of the head small and rather compact,
of the rest of the hedd and neck small, blended, and
glossy. Wings shortish, narrow, pointed ; primary
quills strong, tapering, the first longest, the second
almost as long, the rest rapidly diminishing ;
secondary quills broad and rounded, the inner
elongated and tapering. Tail very short, much
rounded or wedge-shaped, of fourteen feathers.
Bill light grayish-blue, with a broad band of
black at the end, and a dusky patch anterior to
the nostrils. Iris orange-yellow. Head and neck
all around, for more than half its length, ot a
rich brownish-red, glossed with carmine above. A
broad belt of brownish-black occupies the lower
part of the neck and the fore part of the body,
of which the posterior part is of the same color,
more extended on the back than under the tail.
Back and scapulars pale grayish-white, very mi-
nutely traversed by dark brownish-gray lines; the
sides and abdomen similar, the undulations gra-
dually fading away into the grayish-white of the
middle of the breast; upper wing-coverts brown.
ish-gray, the feathers faintly undulated with whitish
towards the end. Primary quills brownish-gray,
dusky along the outer web and at the end;
secondaries ash-gray, narrowly tipped with white, the

RED-HEADED DUCK. 267

outer faintly tinged with yellow, and almost im-
perceptibly dotted with whitish; four or five of
the inner of a poorer tint, tinged with blue, and
having a narrow brownish-black line along the
margin; the innermost like the scapulars, but
more dusky. Tail brownish-gray, towards the end
lighter. Axillar feathers and lower wing-coverts
white. @eet dull grayish-blue, the webs dusky,
‘the claws black. _
Length to end of tail, 20 inches; extent of
wings, 33; weight, 24 pounds.
Aputr rematu: The female has the bill of a
dusky bluish-gray, with a broad band of black at
the end, and a narrow, transverse blue line, nar-
rower than in the male. Iris yellow. - Feet as in
the male. The head and upper part of the neck
dull reddish-brown, darker above and lighter on
the fore part of the cheeks and along a streak be-
hind the eye. The rest of the neck all round, and
the upper parts in general, are dull grayish-brown,
the feathers paler at their extremity ; the flanks
and fore part of the neck dull reddish-brown, the
feathers broadly tipped with pale grayish-brown.
The wings are as in the male, but of a darker
tint and without undulations. The tail as in the
male. Lower wing-coverts light-gray ; those in the

268 GAME—DEEP-WATER FOWL.

middle white, middle of breast grayish-white, hind
part of abdomen light brownish-gray.

Length to end of tail, 21 inches; extent of wings,
32}; weight, 2 pounds 7 ounces.

Like those of the canvas-back, the habits of the
red-head during the breeding-season are very
poorly understood ; in fact, the same may be said
of all the deep-water ducks herein descrifeed, from
the fact that none of them ever remain to breed
in their winter quarters, but all take their de-
parture in the spring to some: secluded regions
of the north, and in the fall return with their
numerous progeny fully grown and well able to
take care of themselves. Like the canvas-back,
too, they are not very plenty in the West dur-
ing the fall, unless the water is unusually high,
but make their appearance in large numbers shortly
after the opening of the rivers and lakes in spring.

Their food consists chiefly of the grass roots so
much sought for by the canvas-backs, and also of
corn, wild oats, and the seeds and blades of vari-
ous water-grasses which grow along the shore in
the fall, and which in spring are inundated. The
botanical name of this grass, whose roots form its
favorite food, I am unacquainted with. In shape

the plant resembles the witch-grass, so common

RED-HEADED DUCK. 269

to old ploughed:fields—blades long, thin, and rather
narrower than the witch-grass, and its bulbs round,
about the size of a pea, of a bright reddish-brown
color on the outside, and on the inside a flaky
white.

They assemble in large flocks on their feeding-
grounds, arid associate indiscriminately with both
deep and shoal water ducks, but are rarely seen in
flight with other than their own kind. They fly
bunched closely together, but at regular rates of
speed and in good order, and seldom pitch or
dart about, as is the general habit of those shoal-
water ducks that fly clustered together. They
come in splendidly to decoys set out on their
feeding-grounds, but very many flocks will pass
them by closely without noticing them if on a
passway. When they are coming to your decoys
down-wind or with a side wind, rise just before
they get to you, and as they double back to
alight, “turn it loose’’ at the middle of ‘the cluster.
They are ‘not very tenacious of life, and fre-
quently six or eight may be killed at a shot in
this way. At times they appear uncommonly
foolish, returning to the decoys and lighting down
immediately after being shot at. An imitation
of their note, which much resembles the mewing

270 GAME—DEEP-WATER FOWL.

of a cat, will often help to attract their atten-
tion to decoys; but without decoys they will not
turn-in for hearing it. They swim very fast
and are good divers, though not quite as expert
as the canvas-back; the methods of hunting
them are similar. In market they sell readily,
bringing, with the exception of canvas-backs,
a higher price than any other duck. They rise
from the water almost invariably against -the
wind, and usually huddle before taking wing. St.
Louis fours or fives are the most killing shot
to use in shooting them.

CHAPTER XXVII.

SCAUP-DUCK (FULIGULA MARILA).

Local names, “Blue bill,” ‘*Broad-bill,” ‘Black-head,” and
“ Black-Jack.”

Aputt Mate: Bill as long as the head, deeper
than broad at the base, enlarged and flattened
towards the end, which is rounded; the frontal
angles narrow and pointed.

Head of moderate size. Eyes small. Neck of
moderate length, rather thick. Body compara-
tively short, compact, and depressed. Wings
small. Feet very short, strong, placedgrather far
behind; tarsus very short, compressed.

Plumage dense, soft, blended. Feathers of the
head and neck short and velvety, those of the hind
head a little elongated. Wings shortish, narrow,
pointed; primary quills curved, strong, tapering,
the first longest, the second very little shorter,
the rest rapidly graduated; secondary broad and
rounded, the inner elongated and tapering. Tail
very short, much rounded, of fourteen feathers.

a1

272 GAME—DEEP-WATER FOWL.

Bill light grayish-blue, the unguis blackish. Iris
yellow. Feet grayish-blue, the webs and claws
black. The head, the whole neck, and the fore
part of the back and breast black; the head and
neck glossed with purple and green, the rest
tinged with brown. Hind part of the back, rump,
abdomen, and upper and lower tail-coverts brown-
ish-black. Middle of the back, scapulars, inner
secondaries, ‘anterior part of abdomen, and sides
grayish-white, beautifully marked with undulating
black lines. Middle of the breast white, wings
light brownish-gray. Alula, primaries at the base
and end, and the greater part of secondaries
brownish-black; the speculum on the latter, white.

Length to end of tail, 164 inches; extent of
wings, 29 iqVeight, 1 pound 6 ounces.

Apvutt FemMaLe: The female agrees with the male
in the characters of the plumage and in the colors
of the bare parts, but those of the former differ con-
siderably. The head, neck, and fore part of the
back and breast are umber-brown; and there is
a broad patch of white along the fore part of the
forehead. The upper parts in general are brown-
ish-black, the middle of the back and scapulars
undulated with whitish dots and bars. The pri-
mary quills are grayish in the middle, and the

SCAUP-DUCK. 273

speculum is white, but of less extent than in the
male. The greater part of the breast and abdo-
men is white; the sides and parts under the tail
umber-brown.

Length, 164 inches; extent of wings, 28; weight,
1 pound 6 ounces.

The males vary greatly in size, but in adult
specimens there is little difference in coloring.

Blue-bill shooting, when they are to be found
in abundance, as is frequently the case in spring,
is one of the prettiest of sports; they come in to
‘the decoys so readily, so often, and are off again
with such amazing velocity, unless well held on,
that the sportsman cannot fail of being pleased.
‘Their flight, though rapid, is very steady, seldom
high in air, excepting in long journeys over land,
which they. avoid as much as possible, and when
in flocks frequently packed closely together, much
in the manner of red-heads, thus affording excel-
lent opportunities for killing several at a dis-_
charge. They die hard, and struggle to escape
to the last, frequently, when shot in the air, diving
the instant they strike the water, and coming up
to its surface dead. When wing-broken, they
swim under water to long distances, coming to
the surface only for an instant to regain their

Q74 GAME—DEEP-WATER FOWL.

breath, and diving again so quickly as to seldom
allow time for shooting them over.

For food they depend chiefly upon wild rice
and the bulbous grass-roots described as . being
also the favorite food of the canvas-backs and red-
heads, and on their feeding-grounds all associate
indiscriminately together. Blue-bills are also very
partial to overflowed prairies and corn-fields, and
are frequently to be found there in quite large
numbers, They cannot spring at once into the
air like many other ducks, but rise gradually as
they go on, and get under good headway exceed-
ingly quick. Unless the wind blows quite fresh,
they may alight either with or against it, seldom
turning back to alight if coming to the decoys
down-wind. Though their flesh is well flavored,
and generally in good order, they sell at very low
prices, frequently at seventy-five cents per dozen
in Chicago markets.

They are less cautious about approaching the
shore than canvas-backs or red-heads, and large
numbers are frequently killed over decoys from
blinds built in the willows bordering some favor-
ite feeding-ground. Almost any kind of a blind
will do when shooting over decoys; only be care-
ful not to attract their attention by any sudden

SCAUP-DUCK. 275

or needless motions. Their note is a guttural,
rolling sound, which may be slightly represented
by the letters krrr, krrr; it is useless, however,
to imitate it, excepting to turn their attention to
decoys. They are usually abundant the entire
spring. Chicago sixes are the proper-sized shot.

CHAPTER XXVIII.
RING-NECKED DUCK (FULIGULA RUFITORGUES).

Local names, “‘ Ring-billed Duck,” ‘‘ Tufted Duck,” and ‘“* Golden-
eyes” (ast very common, but erroneous).

Apvutt mate: Bill about the same length as
the head, rather deeper than broad at the base,
depressed and enlarged towards the end, the frontal
angles acute.

Head of moderate size. Neck rather long and
slender. Body full and depressed. Wings rather
small. Feet very short, strong, placed rather far
behind; tarsus very short.

Plumage dense, soft, blended, rather glossy.
Feathers of the middle of the head and upper
part of hind neck very narrow and a little elon-
gated; the rest of the head and upper part
of the neck very short; of the back and lower
parts in general broad and rounded. Wings of
_moderate length, narrow, acute. Tail very short,
rather broad, much rounded, of sixteen rounded
feathers.

276

RING-NECKED DUCK. Q77

Bill black; with a basal band, the edges of
both mandibles and a band across the upper to-
wards the end, pale blue. Iris yellow. Legs
grayish-blue; the webs brownish-black. The head
and upper part of the neck greenish-black, with pur-
ple reflections. A brownish-red collar or ring, broad-
er before, on the middle of the neck. Its lower part
all round, as well as the back, scapulars, smaller
wing-coverts, and posterior part of the abdomen,
brownish-black. Inner secondaries of the same
color; outer bluish-gray on the outer web, light-
brown on the inner, as are the primaries, of
which the outer webs and tips are dark-brown.
Tail brownish-gray. Chin white. Breast grayish-
white. Sides and fore part of the abdomen gray-
ish-white, minutely undulated with grayish-brown.

Length to end of tail, 18 inches; extent of
wings, 28.

ApULT FEMALE: The female has the neck umber-
brown; the upper part of the head darker; the
back blackish-brown; the speculum darkish-gray,
as in the male; the breast brownish-white; the
loral spaces atid chin pale-brown; the abdomen
um ber-brown.

Length, 16 inches. :

The female of the ring-necked and scaup

278 GAME—DEEP-WATER FOWL.

ducks, which are alike in general color, differ in
the speculum and in the peculiar form of the
bill.

Ring-necked ducks, which are very similar in
appearance and habits to blue-bills, are seldom
found in very large numbers, though occasion-
ally fair sport may be had with them. Where
the water has flowed back amongst the thin, low
willows which border the numerous lakes and
sloughs, are their favorite resorts; though they
may also be found quite frequently upon the
overflowed prairies and corn-fields, associated with
the blue-bills. The methods of hunting them are
nearly identical, though decoys are of less advan-
tage in their pursuit than in that of other deep-
water ducks. They fly faster than most wild
fowl; and, when in flocks, closely together, some-
what like red-heads and blue-bills, though rather
more inclined to dart about irregularly. When
wounded, they are exceedingly difficult to capture,
being very expert divers and possessing extra-
ordinary vitality. Their flesh is tender and well
flavored. They remain with us qyite late in the
spring. No. 6 Chicago shot is about the proper

sized shot to use for killing them.
bY

CHAPTER XXIX.

BUFFLE-HEADED DUCK (FULIGULA ALVEOLA—BONEP).
Local name, “‘ Butter-ball.””

Avvutt MALE: Bill much shorter than the head,
comparatively narrow, deeper than broad at the
base, gradually depressed toward the end, which
is rounded.

Head rather large, compressed. Eyes of mode-
rate size. Neck short and thick. Body com-
pact, depressed. . Feet very short, placed far
back ; tarsus very short, compressed.

Plumage dense, soft, and blended. Feathers on
the fore part of the head very small and round-
ed; on the upper and hind “parts linear and
elongated, as they also are on the lateral and
hind parts of the upper neck, so that, when
raised, they give-the head an extremely tumid
appearance, which is the more marked that the
feathers of the neck immediately beneath are
short. Wings very small, decurved, pointed.
Tail short, graduated, of sixteen feathers.

279

280 GAME—-DEEP-WATER FOWL.

Bill light grayish-blue. Iris hazel. Feet very
pale flesh-color. Claws brownish-black. Fore part
of the head of a deep rich green; upper part
rich bluish-purple, of which color also are the
elongated feathers on the fore part and sides of
the neck ; the hind part of the latter deep green; a
broad band of pure white from one cheek to the
other over the occiput. The colored parts of the
head and neck are splendent and changeable.
The rest of the neck, the lower parts, the outer
scapulars, and a large patch on the wing, in-
cluding the greater part of the smaller coverts
and some of the secondary coverts and quills,
pure white, the scapulars narrowly margined with
black, as are the inner lateral feathers. The feath-
ers on the anterior edge of the wing are black, nar-
rowly edged with white. Alula, primary coverts,
and primary quills deep black. The feathers on
the rump gradually fade into grayish-white, and
those of, the tail are brownish-gray, with the edges
paler and the shafts dusky.

Length to end of tail, 144 inches; extent of
wings, 23; weight, 1 pound.

Aputr Femate: The female is much smaller.
The plumage of the head is not elongated, as in
the male, but there is a ridge of longish fea-

BUFFLE-HEADED DUCK. 281
A

thers down the occiput and nape. Bill darker
than that of the male. Feet grayish-blue, with
the webs dusky. Head, upper part of neck, hind
neck, back, and wings grayish-brown. A short
transverse white band from beneath the eye, and
a slight speck of the same on the lower eyelid.
Six of the secondary quills white, on the outer
web. Lower parts white, shaded into light grayish-
brown on the sides. Tail dull grayish-brown.

Length to end of tail, 18 inches; extent of
wings, 224; weight, 8 ounces,

Individuals of both sexes differ much in size
and in the tints of their plumage.

This pretty little species is common to nearly
every quarter of the United States, and frequents
both salt and fresh water. Local names: butter-
box, butter-ball, and little whistler. Their principal
food is fish, snails, etc. ; consequently, their flesh is
never so well flavored as that of the vegetable-eating
ducks. They are rarely found in poor condition.
Buflle-heads are exceedingly quick-motioned in all
their actions, very expert in diving, which they
practise constantly when on the water, and fly
very swiftly, the action of their wings often mak-
ing a whistling noise as they pass through the air.
They do not set their wings back and stop their

282 GAME—DEEP-WATER FOWL.

headway before alighting, as do most wild-fowl,
but plump down, splashing the water on all sides,
and, when the water is smooth, often slide along
on its surface a considerable distance. They usu-
ally fly close to the water, and avoid crossing the
land as much as possible. Being so little hunted,
they are seldom very wary, and are not often
found in very large numbers. Their note is a
short, guttural quack. They are exceedingly reten-
tive of life, and require hard hitting to secure
them. The Western market-hunter seldom shoots
at them, even when they come into his decoys,
holding them in a sort of contempt, and consid-
ering them as rather insignificant game, though
they find ready sale in market.

CHAPTER XXX.

FINALE—CAVE CcoRvuM!

In concluding these remarks on duck-shooting
I must impress upon the reader’s mind one final
caution, without heeding which all his painstak-
ing and skill in killing his game may prove use
less. It is this: Beware the crow!

Crows are objects of inveterate enmity amongst
all duck-shooters, and few ever venture within the
circumscribed, and to them well-known, limits of
shot-gun range without being forcibly reminded of
the fact. The truth is, crows have a decided
liking to the flavor of raw duck-flesh, and never
hesitate to gratify their tastes whenever a favor-
able chance is offered. Being perhaps rather epi-
curean in their habits, they are so particularly
partial to the heart and other tidbits that when
they can get enough of these, all other portions
are discarded as not worth eating. As a con-
sequence, so many ducks are required to fur-
nish even a small party of these fastidious yet

thankless gluttons with a satisfactory repast, that
283

284 FINALE.

hunters very naturally feel disinclined to cater for
them when by any means it can be avoided.

On one occasion they destroyed for myself
and companion over forty mallard ducks which we
had killed one evening and left to be gathered the
next morning, when the ice should be stronger,
it being at the time we stopped shooting too weak
to bear our weight, and yet too strong to be easily
broken by our boat. We remained until dark,
and, though we were back next morning but a few
minutes after sunrise, the crows had arrived before
us, and were then at their feast. Out of sixty
odd ducks which we counted upon gathering, only
fifteen were left us fit to be taken away; the rest
were utterly spoiled. Two or three had been
eaten by the minks and owls, as we had expected,
and could see by their tracks upon the light snow
which covered the ice; but to the crows we were
chiefly indebted for our disappointment, and since
that time opportunities for cancelling the debt have
rarely been neglected. Though I have at various
times, before and since, had from one to eight
ducks destroyed by crows, such wholesale destruc-
tion as the above I have seen but once; and, learn-
ing caution from the experience, I mean never to

see it again.

FINALE. 285

When you can collect your game in a pile,
you may keep it safe from theif approaches by
leaving upon it your coat, vest, hat, or other object
which will produce in their minds suspicions of
a trap or other danger. At all events, if after a
hard day’s work you cannot at the close of shoot-
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my parting word—Beware the Crow/ and, either
by hiding the booty or scaring off the thief, se-
cure the results of your labor.

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literary culture. It is alive with the sound of rushing streams and the echoes of
the forest, but shows a certain graceful self-possession which betrays the presence
of the artist’s power,”—WV. Y. 7ribune.

‘The best American story, and the most thoroughly American one, that has
appeared for years.” —Phila. Evening Bulletin.

Brave Hearts. A Novel. By Robertson Gray (R. W.
Raymond). 1 vol. r2mo. Jélustrated by Darley, Stephens,
Frank Beard, and Kendrick. Cloth. . . . . . $1 75

“ About as pure, breezy, and withal, readable a story of American life as we’
have met with this long time.” —Congregationalist.

‘Its pictures of the strange life of those early California days are simply
admirable, quite as good as anything Bret Harte has written.” —L7#. World.

A Good Match. A Novel. By Amelia Perrier. 1 vol.
tzmo. Cloth. ...... m # & I-5O

‘- A very readable love story, tenderly told.” —Hearth and Home.
‘s The characters appear and act with a real life.” —Providence Press.

My Wife and I; or, Harry Henderson’s History. A
Novel. By Harriet Beecher Stowe. Illustrated. I vol. 12mo.
Cloth . go wg 8 ‘ 2 9% 6 SE 95

“ Always bright, piquant, Sn Stitenetiaing, with an occasional touch of tender-
ness, strong because subtle, keen in sarcasm, full of womanly logic directed against
unwomanly tendencies.” —Boston Yournal.

We and Our Neighbors. A Novel. By Harriet
Beecher Stowe. Illustrated. rvol. 12mo, A Sequel to “My
Wife and I.” Jn preparation.

As fresh witty, and charming in style as all of Mrs. Stowe’s works are.
*,* To be had through any Bookseller, or will be mailed, post-paid,
on receipt of price, by the Publishers,
J. B. FORD & CO.,
27 Park Place, New York.