Colour schemes for the flower garden

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ALBEKi RO MANN
LIBRARY

AT
CORNELL UNIVERSITY

ornell University Library

Colour schemes for the flower garden.

mann

Cornell University

Library

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COLOUR SCHEMES FOR
THE FLOWER GARDEN

COLOUR SCHEMES FOR
THE FLOWER GARDEN

BY
GERTRUDE JEKYLL

FOURTH EDITION

LONDON :
PUBLISHED AT THE OFFICES OF “COUNTRY LIFE,” Lrn.
20, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C., AND BY
GEORGE NEWNES, Lrp., 8-11, SOUTHAMPTON STREET
STRAND, W.C. NEW YORK: CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS
Iorg

PREFACE

THE continued demand for this book has necessitated
the preparation of a fourth edition. The author has
been much gratified by the many letters that have
been received from unknown correspondents express-
ing grateful acknowledgment of its helpfulness, and
for the encouragement and inspiration they have
derived from its pages.

G1.

INTRODUCTION

To plant and maintain a flower border, with a good
scheme for colour, is by no means the easy thing that is
commonly supposed.

I believe that the only way in which it can be made
successful is to devote certain borders to certain times.
of year; each border or garden region to be bright
for from one to three months.

Nothing seems to me more unsatisfactory than the
border that in spring shows a few patches of flowering
bulbs in ground otherwise looking empty, or with tufts
of herbaceous plants just coming through. Then the
bulbs die down, and their place is wanted for something
that comes later. Either the ground will then show
bare patches, or the place of the bulbs will be forgotten
and they will be cruelly stabbed by fork or trowel
when it is wished to put something in the apparently
empty, space.

For many years I have been working at these
problems in my own garden, and, having come to
certain conclusions, can venture to put them forth
with some confidence. I may mention that from the
nature of the ground, in its original state partly wooded
and partly bare field, and from its having been brought

into cultivation and some sort of shape before it was
Vii

Vill INTRODUCTION

known where the house now upon it would exactly
stand, the garden has less general unity of design
than I should have wished. The.position and general
form of its various portions were accepted mainly
according to their natural conditions, so that the garden
ground, though but of small extent, falls into different
regions, with a general, but not altogether definite,
cohesion.

I am strongly of opinion that the possession of a
quantity of plants, however good the plants may be
themselves and however ample their number, does
not make a garden ; it only makes ; a collection. Having
got the plants, the great thing is to use them with
careful selection and definite intention. Merely having
them, or having them planted unassorted in garden
spaces, is only like having a box of paints from the
best colourman, or, to go one step further, it is like
having portions of these paints set out upon a palette.
This does not constitute a picture; and it seems to
me that the duty we owe to our gardens and to our
own bettering in our gardens is so to use the plants
that they shall form beautiful | pictures ; and that,
while delighting our eyes, they should be always
training those eyes to a more exalted criticism ; toa
state of mind and artistic conscience that will not
' tolerate bad or careless combination or any sort of
misuse of plants, but in which it becomes a point of
honour to be always striving for the best.

It is just in the way it is done that lies the whole
difference between commonplace gardening and gar-
dening that may rightly claim to rank as a fine art.

INTRODUCTION ix

Given the same space of ground and the same material,
they may either be fashioned into a dream of beauty,
a place of perfect rest and refreshment of mind and
body—a series of soul-satisfying pictures—a treasure
of well-set jewels ; or they may be so misused that
everything is jarring and displeasing. To learn how
to perceive the difference and how to do right is to
apprehend gardening as a fine art. In practice it is
to place every plant or group of plants with such
thoughtful care and definite intention that they shall
form a part of a harmonious whole, and that successive
portions, or in some cases even single details, shall
show a series of pictures. It is so to regulate the trees
and undergrowth of the wood that their lines and
masses come into beautiful form and harmonious
proportion ; it is to be always watching, noting and
doing, and putting oneself meanwhile into closest
acquaintance and sympathy with the growing things.

In this spirit, the garden and woodland, such as
they are, have been formed. There have been many
failures, but, every now and then, I am encouraged
and rewarded by a certain measure of success. Yet,
as the critical faculty becomes keener, so does the
standard of aim rise higher; and, year by year, the
desired point seems always to elude attainment.

But, as I may perhaps have taken more trouble in
working out certain problems, and given more thought
to methods of arranging growing flowers, especially
in ways of colour-combination, than amateurs in
general, I have thought that it may be helpful to some
of them to describe as well as I can by word, and to

x INTRODUCTION

show by plan and picture, what I have tried to do,
and to point out where I have succeeded and where
I have failed. ;

I must ask my kind readers not to take it amiss if
I mention here that I cannot undertake to show it
them on the spot. I am a solitary worker; I am
growing old and tired, and suffer from very bad and
painful sight. My garden is my workshop, my private
study and place of rest. For the sake of health and
reasonable enjoyment of life it is necessary to keep it
quite private, and to refuse the many applications of
those who offer it visits. My oldest friends can now
only be admitted. So I ask my readers to spare me
the painful task of writing long letters of excuse and
explanation ; a task that has come upon me almost
daily of late years in the summer months, that has
sorely tried my weak and painful eyes, and has added
much to the difficulty of getting through an already
over-large correspondence.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION . . . ° . as ° vii
OHAPTER I

A MARCH STUDY AND THE BORDER OF EARLY BULBS: I
CHAPTER II

THE WOOD . . . - : we . 9
CHAPTER III

THE SPRING GARDEN : : : . . . 23
CHAPTER IV

BETWEEN SPRING AND SUMMER : . . . 34
CHAPTER V

THE JUNE GARDEN . . ‘ . : 2 : 42
CHAPTER VI

THE MAIN HARDY FLOWER BORDER . ° . . 52

CHAPTER VII

THE FLOWER BORDER IN JULY . . ‘ i 61
xi

xii CONTENTS

CHAPTER VIII

PAGE

THE FLOWER BORDER IN AUGUST . A . H 68
CHAPTER IX

BEDDING PLANTS a . . . 7 é 8:
CHAPTER X

THE FLOWER BORDERS IN SEPTEMBER . 7 - 87
CHAPTER XI

WOOD AND SHRUBBERY EDGES é ‘ é A 92

CHAPTER XII

GARDENS OF SPECIAL COLOURING ‘ . a ‘ 98

CHAPTER XIII

CLIMBING PLANTS . . . . . e ° II5

CHAPTER XIV

GROUPINGS OF PLANTS IN POTS . . . . 121

CHAPTER XV

SOME GARDEN PICTURES . . . . ° ° 130

CHAPTER XVI

A BEAUTIFUL FRUIT GARDEN ., . . * ° 136

CHAPTER XVII

PLANTING FOR WINTER COLOUR . ° * ° 142

CHAPTER XVIII

FORM IN PLANTING . r . 4 e - 147

INDEX . . ‘ é . . . . » 153

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

WHITE RosE aND LAVENDER . -
Wuire Linigs . 3 ‘ .
Ir1s STYLOSA . ; ‘ . °
MaGnoiia CoNSPICUA F . Fi
Macnoiia STELLATA ‘ ‘
FERNS IN THE BuLB BoRDER . ,
Pran—TueE Bank or Earry Buss.
PLan—From Lawn To CopsE . ‘
DAFFODILS BY A WOODLAND PaTH .
Witp PRIMROSES IN THIN WOODLAND
THE WIDE Woop PaTH . ‘ ‘
Cistus LauRIFOLIUS ‘ - ‘
A Woop-PaTH AMONG CHESTNUTS .
A Woop-PaTH aMONG BIRCHES :
Cistus CyPRIus : 3 z :
CiIsTUS BY THE Woop-PatH ‘ ‘
GAULTHERIA SHALLON IN FLOWER .
GAULTHERIA SHALLON IN FRUIT F
Wuitet Irish HEaTH :

THE SPRING GARDEN FROM D on PLAN

PLAN OF THE SPRING GARDEN . ‘“
THE FERN-LIKB SWEET CICELY :
THE SPRING GARDEN FROM E oN PLAN
«“FurtHeR Rock” FRomM G on PLaN
“ FurTHER Rock” rrom H on Pian
*"Ngar Rock” FROM F on Pian.

Tue Primrose GARDEN . F 2
xii

Frontispiece
To face page 1

xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Steps TO THE HIDDEN GARDEN F 3
Putox DIvARICATA AND ARENARIA MONTANA

Mae FERN IN THE HIDDEN GARDEN F
ExocHORDA GRANDIFLORA S « a
PLAN oF THE H1IpDEN GARDEN ‘ ‘
EvupHoRBIA WULFENII 5 ‘ ‘6 *

IRISES AND LUPINES IN THE JUNE GARDEN
CERASTIUM AS AN INFORMAL EDGING. ‘
ParT oF THE GARLAND ROSE AT THE ANGLE
Rost Biusu GatiticA ON Dry-WALLING .
SPANISH IRIS . ‘ 5 ‘
PLAN OF THE JUNE GARDEN . 3 ,
Pian oF Iris aND LUPINE BORDERS i
WuiTE TREE LUPINE - 5 .
CATMINT IN JUNE . . , . i
ScotcH Briars 7 ;: é . ‘
GERANIUM IBERICUM PLATYPHYLLUM .
THE FLOWER BorDER IN LaTE SUMMER
THE Cross WALK . ‘ s “ ‘
Tue East END OF THE FLOWER BORDER .
JAPANESE ANEMONES IN A HALF-SHADY BORDER
PLAN OF THE MAIN FLOWER-BORDER :
Goop STAKING—CAMPANULA PERSICIFOLIA
CAREFUL STAKING OF MICHAELMAS DalISIES

Wuiret Ross La GuIRLANDE; GREY BorDERS BEYOND

Crematis REcTA F é 5 ‘ 3
DELPHINIUM BELLADONNA 3 3 ‘
CANTERBURY BELLS. $ 3 3
Rose THE GARLAND IN A SILVER Hotty .
ERYNGIUM OLIVERIANUM . a a a
LYME-GRASS AND SANTOLINA. é

TaLL CAMPANULAS IN A GREY BoRDER
Yucca FILAMENTOSA ¥ : r ¥
Tue GreEY BorDERS: STAcHysS, &C.
A LavENDER HEDGE a ‘ é

To face page 34

35
36
37
37
38
39
42.
43
44
45
46
46
48
49
50
51
52
53
56-

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

JESCULUS AND OLEARIA . 3 7
Pian oF GARDEN OF CHINA ASTERS
PLAN OF GARDEN OF SUMMER FLOWERS
SoME OF THE EarRLy ASTERS . ;
THE SEPTEMBER GARDEN . ‘ :
THE SEPTEMBER GARDEN: LowWER END.
THE SEPTEMBER GARDEN: UPPER END
BEGONIAS WITH MEGASEA FOLIAGE .

Earty ASTERS AND PyRETHRUM ULIGINOSUM

PLAN oF SEPTEMBER BorDERS . z

GaRLAND RosE, WHERE GARDEN JOINS Woop
PoLyGoNuM AND MEGASEA aT A Woop EpGE
LILIES AND FUNKIAS AT A SHRUBBERY EDGE

OLEARIA GUNNI, FERN AND FUNKIA

.

FERNS AND LILIES aT A SHRUBBERY EDGE

GYPSOPHILA AND MEGASEA ‘i ;
LiLiES AND FERNS AT THE Woop EDGE
ASTER CORYMBOSUS ; SECOND YEAR
ASTER CORYMBOSUS ; THIRD YEAR .
STOBZA PURPUREA . . :

Tue Grey BorDERS: GyPsoPpHILa, ECHINOopPS,
OcToBER BorDERS oF MICHAELMAS DAISIES

A SEPTEMBER GREY GARDEN . é

Tue GREY BorRDER: Pink Ho.ttynock, &c.

PLaNns oF SPECIAL COLOUR GARDENS

A DETAIL OF THE GREY SEPTEMBER GARDEN

ERYNGIUM AND LILIUM CANDIDUM .
Yuccas aND GREY FOLIAGE.
A Front EpGE oF GREY FoLiaczE .

.

Harpy GRAPE VINE ON SouTH SIDE or HousE

Harpy GRAPE VINE oN House WALL

VINE AND Fic aT Door or MusHRoom House.
CLEMATIS MONTANA AT ANGLE OF CouRT .
CLEMATIS MONTANA OVER WoRKSHOP WINDow .
CLEMATIS MONTANA TRAINED AS GARLANDS

xv

To face page via

To

zs nw» =85
” » 86
» 87
” » 88
” x 89
» » 90
” a” gf
” ” 9gI
» ” 92
” » 93
” » 94
” » 95
” » 96
” » 96
» » 96
» on 96
” » 96
” » 97
” » 98
” rn OQ"
Pe » 100
5 » I0F
‘ 102-107
face page 108
” 1» ~109
is » 112
¥ » 13
” oy = IT4
nf mn 11S
is » Il6
” » =T6:
” » 116
” » IZ

xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

ABUTILON VITIFOLIUM < - ‘ . To face page 118
CLEMATIS FLAMMULA AND SPIRHA LINDLEYANA 5 wy @2ES
Ipom@a ‘‘ HEAVENLY BLUE” . z . ‘ 8 » 118
SoLANUM JASMINOIDES . 2 é 3 . is » 118
CLEMATIS FLAMMULA ON ANGLE OF COTTAGE . a » 118
CLEMATIS FLAMMULA ON COTTAGE . e 5 * ~ <0S
CLEMATIS FLAMMULA ON A WOODEN FENCE a ne » 118
SWEET VERBENA : 5 : ‘ ° ‘ ne » IQ
Pot PLANTS JUST PLACED . i i 3 ts » 122
PLANTS IN PoTs IN THE SHADED CourRT . — 3 » 122
MaIDEN’s WREATH (FRANCOA RAMOSA) ‘ iF » 122
MAIDEN’S WREATH BY TANK . “ * é ss » 123
GERANIUMS, &C., IN A STONE-EDGED BED z se » 126
MAIDEN’s WREATH IN Pots ABOVE TANK . ‘ Ss » 126
Funxia, HyDRANGEA AND Lity In SHADED CourT ,, » «126
Funkia AND Litium SPECIOSUM . 3 . oy ag 27
Littum AURATUM . 5 ‘ * e . oF » 128
A Tus HyDRANGEA . . - ‘ ‘ Fe » 128
STEPS AND HyDRANGEAS . 5 é . . 3 » =128
THE Narrow SoutH Lawn . ‘ a 5 a » 129
HYDRANGEA TUBS AND BIRCH-TREE SEAT . a3 » = 132
HypDRANGEA TUBS AND Nut-WaLk . ‘ ‘ 5 » =133
Waite LILiEs ‘ . 4 < . 5 w 194
THE STEPS AND THEIR INCIDENTS . ‘ ‘ ‘i a 135
Pran—Tue BEAUTIFUL FruiT GARDEN . a ra » =©139
Pran—A WILD HEATH GARDEN . re > 2 » §=149

LILIES,

WHITE

COLOUR SCHEMES FOR THE
FLOWER GARDEN

CHAPTER I

A MARCH STUDY AND THE BORDER OF EARLY
BULBS

THERE comes a day towards the end of March when
there is but little wind, and that is from the west or
even south-west. The sun has gained much power,
so that it is pleasant to sit out in the garden, or, better
still, in some sunny nook of sheltered woodland. There
is such a place among silver-trunked Birches, with
here and there the splendid richness of masses of dark
Holly. The rest of the background above eye-level
is of the warm bud-colour of the summer-leafing trees,
and, below, the fading rust of the now nearly flattened
fronds of last year’s Bracken, and the still paler drifts
of leaves from neighbouring Oaks and Chestnuts. The
sunlight strikes brightly on the silver stems of the
Birches, and casts their shadows clear-cut across the
grassy woodland ride. The grass is barely green as
yet, but has the faint winter green of herbage not yet
grown and still powdered with the short remnants

of the fine-leaved, last-year-mown heath grasses.
I 4

2 COLOUR SCHEMES

Brown leaves still hang on young Beech and Oak.
The trunks of the Spanish Chestnuts are elephant-
grey, a notable contrast to the sudden, vivid shafts
of the Birches. Some groups of the pale early Pyrenean
Daffodil gleam level on the ground a little way forward.

It is the year’s first complete picture of flower-effect
in the woodland landscape. The place is not very far
from the house, within the nearest hundred yards
of the copse, where flowers seem to be more in place
than further away. Looking to the left, the long ridge
and south slope of the house-roof is seen through the
leafless trees, though the main wall-block is hidden by
the sheltering Hollies and Junipers.

Coming down towards the garden by another broad
grassy way, that goes westward through the Chestnuts
and then turns towards the down-hill north, there
comes yet another deviation through Rhododendrons
and Birches to the main lawn. But before the last
turn there is a pleasant mass of colour showing in the
wood-edge on the dead-leaf carpet. It is a straggling
group of Daphne Mezereum, with some clumps of red
Lent Hellebores, and, to the front, some half-connected
patches of the common Dog-tooth Violet. The nearly
related combination of colour is a delight to the trained
colour-eye. There is nothing brilliant; it is all
restrained—refined ; in harmony with the veiled light
that reaches the flowers through the great clumps of
Hollies and tall half-overhead Chestnuts and neigh-
bouring Beech. The colours are all a little ‘‘ sad,”
“as the old writers so aptly say of the flower-tints of
secondary strength, But it is a perfect picture, One

A MARCH STUDY 3

comes to it again and again as one does to any picture
that is good to live with.

To devise these living pictures from simple well-
known flowers seems to me the best thing to do in
gardening. Whether it is the putting together of two
or three kinds of plants, or even of one kind only in
some happy setting, or whether it is the ordering of a
much larger number of plants, as in a flower-border of
middle and late summer, the intention is always the
same. Whether the arrangement is simple and modest,
whether it is bold and gorgeous, whether it is obvious
or whether it is subtle, the aim is always to use the
plants to the best of one’s means and intelligence so
as to form pictures of living beauty.

It is a thing that I see so rarely attempted, and that
seems to me so important, that the wish to suggest it
to others, and to give an idea of examples that I have
worked out, in however modest a way, is the purpose
of this book.

These early examples within the days of March are
of special interest because as yet flowers are but few ;
the mind is less distracted by much variety than later
in the year, and is more readily concentrated on the
few things that may be done and observed; so that
the necessary restriction is a good preparation, by
easy steps, for the wider field of observation that is
presented later.

Now we pass on through the dark masses of Rhodo-
dendron and the Birches that shoot up among them.
How the silver stems, blotched and banded with varied
browns and greys so deep in tone that they show like a

4 COLOUR SCHEMES

luminous black, tell among the glossy Rhododendron
green; and how strangely different is the way of
growth of the two kinds of tree ; the tall white trunks
spearing up through the dense, dark, leathery leaf-
masses of solid, roundish outline, with their delicate
network of reddish branch and spray gently swaying far
overhead !

Now we come to the lawn, which slopes a little
downward to the north. On the right it has a low
retaining-wall, whose top line is level; it bears up a
border and pathway next the house’s western face.
The border and wall are all of a piece, for it is a dry
wall partly planted with the same shrubby and half-
shrubby things that are in the earth above. They
have been comforting to look at all the winter; a
pleasant grey coating of Phlomis, Lavender, Rosemary,
Cistus, and Santolina ; and at the end and angle where
the wall is highest, a mass of Pyrus japonica, planted
both above and below, already showing its rose-red.
bloom. At one point at the foot of the wall is a
strong tuft of Ivts stylosa whose first blooms appeared
in November. This capital plant flowers bravely all
through the winter in any intervals of open weather.
It likes a sunny place against a wall in poor soil. If
it is planted in better ground the leaves grow very tall
and it gives but little bloom.

Now we pass among some shrub-clumps, and at the
end come upon a cheering sight ; a tree of Magnolia
conspicua bearing hundreds of its great white cups of
fragrant bloom. Just before reaching it, and taking
part with it in the garden picture, are some tall bushes

IRIS STYLOSA

‘“FQOITSNOD FITONDFIN

A MARCH STUDY §

of Forsythia suspensa, tossing out many-feet-long
branches loaded with their burden of clear yellow
flowers. They are ten to twelve feet high, and one
looks up at much of the bloom clear-cut against the
pure blue of the sky ; the upper part of the Magnolia
also shows against the sky. Here there is a third
flower-picture ; this time of warm white and finest
yellow on brilliant blue, and out in open sunlight.
Among the Forsythias is also a large bush of Magnolia
stellata, whose milk-white flowers may be counted by
the thousand. As the earlier M. conspicua goes out of
bloom it comes into full bearing, keeping pace with
the Forsythia, whose season runs on well into April.

It is always a little difficult to find suitable places
for the early bulbs. Many of them can be enjoyedin
rough and grassy places, but we also want to combine
them into pretty living pictures in the garden proper.

Nothing seems to me more unsatisfactory than the
usual way of having them scattered about in small
patches in the edges of flower-borders, where they
only show as little disconnected dabs of colour, and
where they are necessarily in danger of disturbance
and probable injury when their foliage has died down
and their places are wanted for summer flowers.

It was a puzzle for many years to know how to
treat these early bulbs, but at last a plan was devised
that. seems so satisfactory that I have no hesitation
in advising it for general adoption.

On the further side of a path that bounds my June
garden is a border about seventy feet long and ten
feet wide. At every ten feet along the back is a

6 COLOUR SCHEMES

larch post planted with a free-growing Rose. These
are not only to clothe their posts, but to grow into
garlands swinging on slack chains from post to post.
Beyond are Bamboos, and then an old hedge-bank
with Scotch Firs, Oaks, Thorns, ; &e. we ¢. border
slopes upwards from the path, forming a bank of
gentle ascent. It was first planted with hardy Ferns
in bold drifts; Male Fern for the most part, because
it is not only handsome but extremely persistent,
the fronds remaining green into the winter. The Fern-
spaces are shown in the plan by diagonal hatching ;
between them come the bulbs, with a general edging
to the front of mossy Saxifrage.

The colour scheme begins with the pink of Megasea
ligulata, and with the lower-toned pinks of Fumaria
bulbosa and the Dog-tooth Violets (Erythronium). At
the back of these are Lent Hellebores of dull red colour-
ing, agreeing charmingly with the colour of the bulbs.
A few white Lent Hellebores are at the end; they.
have turned to greenish white by the time the rather:
late Scilla amena isin bloom. Then comes a brilliant
patch of pure blue with white—Scilla sibirica and.
white Hyacinths, followed by the also pure blues of
Scilla bifolia and Chionodoxa and the later, more purple
blue of Grape Hyacinth. A long drift of white Crocus,
comes next, in beauty in the border’s earliest days +
and later, the blue-white of Puschkinia ; then again
pure blue and white of Chtonodoxa and white Hyacinth.

Now the colours change to white and yellow and
golden foliage, with the pretty little pale trumpet
Daffodil Consul Crawford, and beyond it the stronger

SH et ies bet BES

NOLLA SEE

LAG

‘UWAdUOT €TNWI AHL NI SNUA+A

JL fu ere
a ent l —

THE BANK OF EARLY BULBS.
Groups of Ferns shown by diagonal hatching.

FROM LAWN TO COPSE.

A MARCH STUDY 4
yellow of two other small early kinds—N. nanus and
the charming little N. minor, quite distinct though so
often confounded with manus in gardens. With these,
and in other strips and patches towards the end of the
border, are plantings of the Golden Valerian, so useful
for its bright yellow foliage quite early in the year.
The leaves of the Orange Day-lily are also of a pale
yellowish-green colour when they first come up, and
are used at the end of the border. These plants of
golden and pale foliage are also placed in a further
region beyond the plan, and show to great advantage
as the eye enfilades the border and reaches the more
distant places. Before the end of the bulb-border is
reached there is once more a drift of harmonised faint
pink colouring of Megasea and the little Fumana,
(also known as Corydalis bulbosa) with the pale early
Pyrenean Daffodil, N. pallidus precox. (N.triandrus |

The bulb-flowers are not all in bloom exactly at the
same time, but there is enough of the colour intended
to give the right effect in each grouping. Standing
at the end, just beyond the Dog-tooth Violets, the
arrangement and progression of colour is pleasant
and interesting, and in some portions vivid ; the pure
blues in the middle spaces being much enhanced by
the yellow flowers and golden foliage that follow.

A nearly similar arrangement of flowers for earliest
spring has been made at a place where a path from
the lawn branches into three grassy ways up into the
copse. The planted promontory is a bank rising
from the grass paths and is set with a few large stones.
As it is backed by Hollies and Junipers, and then by

8 COLOUR SCHEMES

the Birches of the wood, it has a back planting of such
shrubs as both accord in colour with the flowering
plants and lead suitably to the further woodland.
These are Rhododendron precox and Andromeda
(Pieris) floribunda—a wide-spreading Savin is already
behind them—while the front planting is stiffened
by some of the early blooming Heaths, Evica carnea
in one or two colourings and E. hybrida. There is
also, though the bloom will not be till later, a kind
of backbone of Alpenrose (Rhododendron ferruginium),
which gives a certain aspect of strength and solidity.

Through April and May the leaves of the bulbs are
growing tall, and their seed-pods are carefully removed
to prevent exhaustion. By the end of May the Ferns
are throwing up their leafy crooks; by June the
feathery fronds are displayed in all their tender fresh-
ness ; they spread over the whole bank, and we forget
that there are any bulbs between. By the time the
June garden, whose western boundary it forms, has
come into fullest bloom it has become a completely
furnished bank of Fern-beauty.

CHAPTER II
THE WOOD

TEN acres is but a small area for a bit of woodland,
yet it can be made apparently much larger by well-
considered treatment. As the years pass and the
different portions answer to careful guidance, I am
myself surprised to see the number and wonderful
variety of the pictures of sylvan beauty that it dis-
plays throughout the year. I did not specially aim at
variety, but, guided by the natural conditions of each
region, tried to think out how best they might be
fostered and perhaps a little bettered.

The only way in which variety of aspect was de-
liberately chosen was in the way of thinning out the
natural growths. It was a wood of seedling trees that
had come up naturally after an old wood of Scotch
Fir had been cut down, and it seemed well to clear
away all but one, or in some cases two kinds of trees in
the several regions. Even in this the intention was to
secure simplicity rather than variety, so that in moving
about the ground there should be one thing at a time
to see and enjoy. It is just this quality of singleness
or simplicity of aim that I find wanting in gardens in
general, where one may see quantities of the best

9

io COLOUR SCHEMES

Of course one has to remember that there are many
minds to which this need of an artist’s treatment of
garden and woodland does not appeal, just as there
are some who do not care for music or for poetry, or
who see no difference between the sculpture of the
old Greeks and that of any modern artist who is not
of the first rank, or to whom architectural refinement
is as an unknown language. And in the case of the
. more superficial enjoyment of flowers one has sympathy
too. For a love of flowers, of any kind, however
shallow, is a sentiment that makes for human sympathy.
and kindness, and is in itself uplifting, as everything
must be that is a source of reverence and admiration:
Still, the object of this book is to draw attention,
however slightly and imperfectly, to the better ways of
gardening, and to bring to bear upon the subject
some consideration of that combination of common,
sense with sincerity of purpose, sense of beauty, and
“artistic ‘knowledge that can make plain ground and
growing things into a year-long succession of living)
pictures. Common sense I put first, because: it
restrains from any sort of folly or sham or affectation:}
Sense of beauty is the gift of God, for which those who
have received it in good measure can never be thankful:
enough. The nurturing of this gift through long years
of study, observation, and close application in any one
of the ways in which fine art finds expression, is the
training of the artist’s brain and heart and hand. The
better a human mind is trained to the perception of
beauty the more opportunities will it tind of exercising
this precious gift, and the more directly will it be

Pd EL.

AND

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DAPLODILS

WILD PRIMROSES IN THIN WOODLAND
(rom a Preture bv Henry Moon.)

THE WOOD ti

brought to bear upon even the very simplest matters
of everyday life, and always to their bettering.

So it was in the wood of young seedling trees, where
Oak and Holly, Birch, Beech and Mountain Ash,
came up together in a close thicket of young saplings.
It seemed well to consider, in the first place, how to
bring something like order into the mixed jumble,
and, the better to do this, to appeal to the little trees
themselves and see what they had to say about it.

The ground runs on a natural slope downward to the
north, or, to be more exact, as the highest point is at
one corner, its surface is tilted diagonally all over.
So, beginning at the lower end of the woody growth,
near the place where the house some day might stand,
the first thing that appeared was a well-grown Holly,
and rather near it, another ; both older trees than the
more recent seedling growth. Close to the second
Holly was a young Birch, the trunk about four inches
thick and already in the early pride of its silvering
bark. That was enough to prompt the decision that
this part of the wood should be of silver Birch and
Holly, so nearly all other growths were cut down or
pulled up. A hundred yards higher up there were
some strong young Oaks, then some Beeches, and
all over the top of the ground a thick growth of young
Scotch Fir, while’ the western region had a good
sprinkling of promising Spanish Chestnut.

All these natural groupings were accepted, and a
first thinning was made of the smallest stuff of other
kinds. But it was done with the most careful watching,
for there were to be no harsh frontiers. One kind of

t2 COLOUR SCHEMES

tree was to join hands with the next, though often a
distinct deviation was madeto the generalrule. For the
beautiful growth of the future wood was the thing that
mattered, rather than obedience to any inflexible law.

Now, after twenty years, the saplings have become
trees, and the preponderance of one kind of tree at a
time has given a feeling of repose and dignity. Here
and there something exceptional occurs, but it causes
interest, not confusion. Five woodland walks. pass
upward through the trees; every one has its own
character, while the details change during its progress
—never abruptly, but in leisurely sequence; as if in-
viting the quiet stroller to stop a moment to enjoy
some little woodland suavity, and then gently enticing
him to go further, with agreeable anticipation of what
might come next. Andif I may judge by the pleasure
that these woodland ways give to some of my friends
who I know are in sympathy with what I am trying
to do, and by my own thankful delight in them, I may
take it that my little sylvan pictures have come fairly
right, so that I may ask my reader to go with me in
spirit through some of them.

My house, a big cottage, stands facing a little to
the east of south, just below the wood. The windows
of the sitting-room, and its outer door, which stands
open in all fine summer weather, look up a straight
wide grassy way, the vista being ended by a fine old
Scotch Fir with a background of dark wood. This
old Fir and one other, and a number in and near the
southern hedge, are all that remain of the older wood
which was all of Scotch Fir.

WOOD-PATH.

WIDE

THE

OF THE FERN WALK,

ENTRANCE

AT THE SUNNY

1URIFOLIUS

Ls

CISTUS

THE WOOD 13

This green wood walk, being the widest and most
important, is treated more boldly than the others—
with groups of Rhododendrons in the region rather
near the house, and for the rest only a biggish patch
of the two North American Brambles, the white-
flowered Rubus nutkanus, and the rosy R. odoratus.
In spring the western region of tall Spanish Chestnuts,
which begins just beyond the Rhododendrons, is
carpeted with Poets’ Narcissus; the note of tender
white blossom being taken up and repeated by the
bloom-clouds of Amelanchtey, that charming little
woodland flowering tree whose use in such ways is
so much neglected. Close to the ground in the distance
the light comes with brilliant effect through the young
leaves of a widespread carpet of Lily of the Valley,
whose clusters of sweet little white bells will be a
delight to see a month hence.

The Rhododendrons are carefully grouped for
colour—pink, white, rose and red of the best qualities
are in the sunniest part, while, kept well apart from
them, near the tall Chestnuts and rejoicing in their
partial shade, are the purple colourings, of as pure
and cool a purple as may be found among carefully
selected ponticum seedlings and the few named kinds
that associate well with them. Some details of this
planting were given at length in my former book
“Wood and Garden.”’

Among the Rhododendrons, at points carefully
devised to be of good effect, either from the house or
from various points of the lawn and grass paths, are
strong groups of Lilium awratum ; they give a new

14 COLOUR SCHEMES

picture of flower-beauty in the late summer and
autumn and till near the end of October. The dark,
strong foliage makes the best possible setting for the
Lilies, and gives each group of them its fullest value.
Another, narrower path, more to the east, is called the
Fern walk, because, besides the general growth of
Bracken that clothes the whole of the wood, there are
groups of common hardy Ferns in easy patches,
planted in such a way as to suggest that they grew
there naturally. The Male Fern, the beautiful Dilated
Shield Fern, and Polypody are native to the ground,
and it was easy to place these, in some cases merely
adding to a naturally grown tuft, so that they look
quite at home. Lady Fern, Blechnum and Osmunda,
and Oak and Beech Ferns have been added, the
Osmunda in a depression that collects the water from
any storms of rain. Later it was found that these
wood-path edges offered suitable places for groups
of the Willow Gentian (G. asclepiadea), and it was
rather largely planted. It delights in a cool place
in shade or half-shade, and when in September so
many flowers are over and garden plants in general are
showing evidence of fatigue and exhaustion, it is a
pleasant thing to come upon a group of the arching
sprays of this graceful and quite distinctive plant
with its bright blue flowers an inch and a half long
set in pairs in the axils of the willow-like leaves.

At the beginning of all these paths I took some pains
to make the garden melt imperceptibly into the wood,
and in each case to do it a different way. Where this
path begins the lawn ends at a group of Oak, Holly,

THE WOOD 15

and Cistus, with an undergrowth of Gaultheria and
Andromeda. The larger trees are to the left, and the
small evergreen shrubs on a rocky mound to the right.
Within a few yards the turf path becomes a true
wood path. Just as wild gardening should never
look like garden gardening, or, as it so sadly often does,
like garden plants gone astray and quite out of place,
so wood paths should never look like garden paths.
There must be no hard edges, no obvious boundaries.
The wood path is merely an easy way that the eye
just perceives and the foot follows. It dies away
imperceptibly on either side into the floor of the wood
and is of exactly the same nature, only that it is
smooth and easy and is not encumbered by projecting
tree-roots, Bracken or Bramble, these being all removed
when the path is made.

If it is open enough to allow of the growth of grass,
and the grass has to be cut, and is cut with a machine,
then a man with a faghook must follow to cut away
slantingly the hard edge of standing grass that is left
on each side. For the track of the machine not only
leaves the hard, unlovely edges, but also brings into
the wood the incongruous sentiment of that discipline
of trimness which belongs to the garden, and that,
even there in its own place, is often overdone.

Now we are in the true wood path among Oaks and
Birches. Looking round, the view is here and there
stopped by prosperous-looking Hollies, but for the
most part one can see a fair way into the wood. In
April the wood floor is plentifully furnished with
Daffodils. Here, in the region furthest removed from

16 COLOUR SCHEMES

the white Poets’ Daffodil of the upper ground, they
are all of trumpet kinds, and the greater number of
strong yellow colour. For the Daffodils range through,
the wood in a regular sequence of kinds that is not
only the prettiest way to have them, but that I have
often found, in the case of people who did not know
their Daffodils well, servéd to make the whole story
of their general kinds and relationships clear and
plain; the hybrids of each group standing between
the parent kinds; these again leading through other
hybrids to further clearly defined species, ending with
the pure trumpets. As the sorts are intergrouped at
their edges, so that at least two removes are in view
at one time, the lesson in the general relationship of
kinds is easily learnt.

They are planted not in patches, but_in long drifts;
a way that not only shows the plant in good number
to better advantage, but that is singularly happy in
its effect in the woodland landscape. This is specially
noticeable towards the close of the day, when the
sunlight, yellowing as it nears the horizon, lights up
the long stretches of yellow bloom with an increase of
colour strength, while the wide-stretching shadow-
lengths throw the woodland shades into large phrases’
of broadened mass, all subdued and harmonised by
the same yellow light that illuminates the long level
ranks of golden bloom.

From this same walk in June, looking westward
through the Birch stems, the value of the careful
colour scheme of the Rhododendrons is fully felt.
They are about a hundred yards away, and their mass

ad WOOD: PAPE AVONG CHESTNUTS.

4 WOOD-PATH AMONG BIRCHES.

THE WOOD 17

is broken by the groups of intervening tree-trunks;
but their brightness is all the more apparent seen from
under the nearer roofing mass of tree-top, and the
yellowing light makes the intended colour-effect still
more successful by throwing its warm tone over the
whole.

But nearer at hand the Fern walk has its own
little pictures. In early summer there are patches of
Trillium, the white Wood Lily, in cool hollows among
the ferns, and, some twenty paces further up, another
wider group of the same. Between the two, spreading
through a mossy bank, in and out among the ferns
and right down to the path, next to a coming patch of
Oak Fern, is a charming little white flower. Its
rambling roots thread their way under the mossy
carpet, and every few inches throw up a neat little
stem and leaves crowned with a starry flower of
tenderest white. It is Tvzentalis, a native of our most
northern hill-woods, the daintiest of all woodland
flowers.-

To right and left white Foxgloves spire up among
the Bracken. When the Foxglove seed is ripe, we
remember places in the wood where tree-stumps were
grubbed last winter. A little of the seed is scattered
in these places and raked in. Meanwhile one forgets
all about it, till two years afterwards there are the
stately Foxgloves. It is good to see their strong spikes
of solid bloom standing six to seven feet high, and then
to look down again at the lowly Trientalis and to note
how the tender little blossom, poised on its thread-

like stem, holds its own in interest and importance.
B

18 COLOUR SCHEMES

Further up the Fern walk, near the upper group of
Trillium, are some patches, of a plant with roundish,
glittering leaves. It is a North American Asarum
(A. virginicum); the curious wax-like brown and
greenish flower, after the usual manner of its kind,
is short-stalked and hidden at the base of the leaf-stems.
Near it, and growing close to the ground in a tuft of
dark-green moss, is an interesting plant—Goodyera
repens, a terrestrial Orchid. One might easily pass
it by, for its curiously white-veined leaves are halt
hidden in the moss, and its spike of pale greenish-
white flower is not conspicuous; but, knowing. it
is there, I never pass without kneeling down, both
to admire its beauty and also to ensure its well-being
by a careful removal of a little of the deep moss
here and there where it threatens too close an
invasion.

Now there comes a break in the Fern walk, or rather
it takes another character. The end of one of the
wide green ways that we call the Lily path comes into
it on the right, and immediately beyond this, stands
the second of the great Scotch Firs of the older wood.
The trunk, at five feet from the ground, has a girth
of nine and a half feet. The colour of the rugged bark is
a wonder of lovely tones of cool greys and greens, and
of a luminous deep brown in the fissures and cavities.
Where the outer layers have flaked off it is a warm
reddish grey, of a quality that is almost peculiar to
itself. This great tree’s storm-rent head towers up
some seventy feet, far above the surrounding foliage
of Oak and Birch, Close to its foot, and showing

THE CISTUS CLEARING.

CYPRICS £47

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WOOD-PATH,

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THE WOOD 19

behind it as one comes up the Fern walk, are a Holly
and a Mountain Ash.

This spot is a meeting-place of several ways. On
the right the wide green of the Lily path; then, still
bearing diagonally to the right, one of the paths into
the region of Azalea and Cistus ; then, straight past
the big tree, a wood walk carpeted with Whortleberry
that passes through a whole Whortleberry region
under Oaks, Hollies and Beeches ; and, lastly, the path
which is the continuation of the Fern walk. Looking
along it one sees, a little way ahead, a closer shade of
trees, for the most part Oak, but before entering this,
on the right-hand gently rising bank, is a sheet of
bright green leaves, closely set in May with neat spikes
of white bloom. It is Smilacina bifolia, otherwise
known as Maianthemum bifohium. The pretty little
plant has taken to the place in a way that rejoices the
heart of the wild gardener, joining in perfect accord
with the natural growth of short Whortleberry and a
background of the graceful fronds of Dilated Shield
Fern, and looking as if it was of spontaneous growth.

Now the path passes a large Holly, laced through
and through with wild Honeysuckle. The Honey-
suckle stems that run up into the tree look like great
ropes, and a quantity of the small ends come showering
out of the tree-top and over the path, like a tangled
veil of small cordage.

The path has been steadily rising, and now the
ascent is a little steeper. The character of the trees
is changing; Oaks are giving way to Scotch Firs.
Just where this change begins the bank to right and

20 COLOUR SCHEMES

left is covered with the fresh, strong greenery of
Gaultheria Shallon. About twenty years ago a few
small pieces were planted. Now it is a mass of close
green growth two to three feet high and thirty paces
long, and extending for several yards into the wood
to right and left. In a light, peaty soil such as this,
it is the best of undershrubs. It is in full leaf-beauty
in the dead of winter, while in early summer it bears
clusters of good flowers of the Arbutus type. These
are followed by handsome dark berries nearly as
large as black currants, covered with a blue-grey
bloom.

Now the path crosses another of the broad turfy
ways, but here the turf is all of Heath ; a fourteen-foot-
wide road of grey-rosy bloom in August ; and now
we are in the topmost region of Scotch Fir, with
undergrowth of Whortleberry.

The wood path next to this goes nearly straight up
through the middle of the ground. It begins at another
point of the small lawn next the house, and passes
first by a turf walk through a mounded region of
small shrubs and carefully placed pieces of the local
‘sandstone. Andromeda, Skimmia and Alpenrose have
grown into solid masses, so that the rocky ridges peer
out only here and there. And when my friends say,
“But then, what a chance you had with that shelf
of rock coming naturally out of the ground,” I
feel the glowing warmth of an inward smile and
think that perhaps the stones have not been so badly
placed.

Near the middle of the woody ground a space was

YAM OTA

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1 SHALLON IN FRUIT.

LULTITERIT.

1

THE WOOD 21

cleared that would be large enough to be sunny through-
out the greater part of the day. This was for Cistuses.
It is one of the compensations for gardening on the
poorest of soils that these delightful shrubs do well
with only the preparation of digging up and loosening
the sand, for my soil is nothing better. The kinds
that are best in the woody landscape are C. laurifolius
and C. cyprius ; laurifolius is the hardiest, cyprius
yather the more beautiful, with its three-and-a-half-
inch wide flowers of tenderest white with a red-purple
blotch at the base of each petal. Its growth, also, is
rather more free and graceful. It is the kind usually
sold as dadantferus, and flowers in July. C. laurifolius
is a bush of a denser habit; it bears an abundance
of bloom rather smaller than that of C. cyprius, and
without the coloured blotch. But when it grows old
and some of its stems are borne down and lie along
the ground, the habit changes and it acquires a free
pictorial character. These two large-growing Cistuses
are admirable for wild planting in sunny wood edges.
The illustrations (pp. 18 and 19) show their use, not only
in their own ground, but by the sides of the grassy
ways and the regions where the wood paths leave the
lawn.

The sheltered, sunny Cistus clearing has an under-
growth of wild heaths that are native to the ground,
but a very few other Heaths are added, namely, Erica
ciliata and the Cornish Heath; and there is a fine
patch at the joining of two of the little grassy paths
of the white form of the Irish Heath (Menziesia, or
Daboécia polifolia).

a2 COLOUR SCHEMES

A project is in contemplation for a further extension
of the clearing for the making of a heath garden, that
promises to provide many happy hours of work in the
coming winter.

WHITE IRISH HEATH.

EAHT THE OL St «MOON UFAYN,, (NPI NO @ WOME NUGHYPD ONINGAS WEL

roy

CHAPTER III
THE SPRING GARDEN

As my garden falls naturally into various portions,
distinct enough from each other to allow of separate
treatment, I have found it well to devote one space at
a time, sometimes mainly, sometimes entirely, to the
flowers of one season of the year:

There is therefore one portion that is a complete
little garden of spring flowers. It begins to show some
bloom by the end of March, but its proper season is
the month of April and three weeks of May.

In many places the spring garden has to give way
to the summer garden, a plan that greatly restricts
the choice of plants, and necessarily excludes some of
the finest flowers of the early year.

My spring garden lies at the end and back of a high
wall that shelters the big summer flower border from
the north and north-west winds. The line of the wall
is continued as a Yew hedge that in time will rise to
nearly the same height, about eleven feet. At the far
end the Yew hedge returns to the left so as to fence
in the spring flowers from the east and to hide some
sheds. The space also encloses some beds of Tree
Peonies and a plot of grass, roughly circular in shape,
about eight yards across, which is nearly surrounded

23

24 COLOUR SCHEMES

by Oaks, Hollies and Cob-nuts. The plan shows its
disposition. It is of no design; the space was accepted
with its own conditions, arranged in the simplest way
as to paths, and treated very carefully for colour. It
really makes as pretty a picture of spring flowers as
one could wish to see.

The chief mass of colour is in the main border. The
circles marked V and M are strong plants of Veratrum
and Myrrhis. Gardens of spring flowers generally have
a thin, poor effect for want of plants of important
foliage. The greater number of them look what they
are—temporary makeshifts. It seemed important
that in this little space, which is given almost entirely
to spring flowers, this weakness should not be allowed.
But herbaceous plants of rather large growth with fine
foliage in April and May are not many. The best I
could think of are Veratrum nigrum, Myrrhis odorata
and the newer Euphorbia Wulfeni. The Myrrhis is
the Sweet Cicely of old English gardens. It is an um-
belliferous plant with large fern-like foliage, that makes
early growth and flowers in the beginning of May. At
three years old a well-grown plant is a yard high and
across. After that, if the plants are not replaced by
young ones, they grow too large, though they can be
kept in check by a careful removal of the outer leaves
and by cutting out some whole crowns when the plant
is making its first growth. The Veratrum, with its
large, deeply plaited, undivided leaves, is in striking
contrast, but the two kinds of plants, in groups as the
plan shows, with running patches of the large form of
Megasea cordifolia, the great Euphorbia Wulfenii and

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PLAN OF THE SPRING GARDEN

26 COLOUR SCHEMES

some groups of Black Hellebore, just give that com-
fortable impression of permanence and distinct inten-
tion that are usually so lamentably absent from gardens
of spring flowers.

Many years ago I came to the conclusion that in all
flower borders it is better to plant in long rather than
block-shaped patches. It not only has a more pictorial
effect, but a thin long planting does not leave an
unsightly empty space when the flowers are done and
the leaves have perhaps died down. The word “‘ drift ”
conveniently describes the shape I have in mind, and
I commonly use it in speaking of these long-shaped
plantings.

Such drifts are shown faintly in the plan, reduced in
number and simplified in form, but serving to show
the general manner of planting. There are of course
many plants that look best in a distinct clump or even
as single examples, such as Dictamnus (the Burning
Bush), and the beautiful pale yellow Paonia witt-
manniana, a single plant of which is marked W near
the beginning of the main border.

For the first seven or eight yards, in the front and
middle spaces, there are plants of tender colouring—
pale Primroses, Tiarella, pale yellow Daffodils, pale
yellow early Iris, pale lemon Wallflower, double Arabis,
white Anemones and the palest of the lilac Aubrietias ;
also a beautiful pale lilac Iris, one of the Caparne
hybrids ; with long drifts of white and pale yellow
Tulips—nothing deeper in colour than the graceful
Tulipa retroflexa. At the back of the border the colours
are darker; purple Wallflower and the great dull red-

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THE SPRING GARDEN 27

purple double Tulip so absurdly called Bleu Céleste.
These run through and among and behind the first
clump of Veratrums.

In the middle of the length of the border there is
still a good proportion of tender and light colouring in
front : white Primroses and Daffodils ; the pale yellow
Uvularia and Adonis vernalis ; but with these there are
stronger colours: Tulip Chrysolora of fuller yellow,
yellow Wallflowers, the tall Doronicum, and, towards
the: back, several patches of yellow Crown Imperial.

Then again in front, with more double Arabis, is the
lovely pale blue of Myosotis dissttiflora and Mertensia
virginica, and, with sheets of the foam-like Tiarella,
the tender pink of Dicentra eximia and pink and rose-
red Tulips. At the back of this come scarlet Tulips,
the stately cream-white form of Camassia Leichilini
and a bold tuft of Solomon’s Seal ; then Orange Tulips,
brown Wallflowers, Orange Crown Imperial, and taller
scarlet Tulips of the gesnerviana class. The strong
colouring is repeated beyond the cross-path where the
patches of Acanthus are shown, with more orange
Tulips, brown Wallflowers, orange Crown Imperial and
great flaming scarlet gesneriana Tulips. All this shows
up finely against the background of dark yew. At
the extreme end, where the yew hedge returns forward
at a right angle, this point is accentuated by a raised
mound of triangular shape, dry-walled and slightly
curved forward on the side facing the border and the
spectator. On this at the back is a young plant of
Yucca gloriosa for display in future years and a front
planting of the large growing Euphorbia Wulfemit, one

28 COLOUR SCHEMES

of the grandest and most pictorial of plants of recent
acquirement for garden use.

The Acanthus and Yucca are of course plants of
middle and late summer; between them are some
Tritomas. These plants are here because one of the
most often used of the garden thoroughfares passes
the point C, which is a thick-roofed arch of Rose and
Clematis, and, seen from this point and framed by the
near greenery, they form a striking picture of middle-
distant form and colour in the later summer.

The space marked Further Rock is an upward-
sloping bank, the Hollies standing on rather higher
ground. Here the plants are between, and tumbling
over, rocky ridges. Next the large Holly, and ex-
tending to the middle of the rocky promontory, are
again the strong reds and browns, with accompanying
bronze-red foliage of Heuchera Richardsont. This gives
place to dark green carpeting masses of Iberis with
cold-white bloom, and, nearer the path, Lithospermum
prostvatum ; the flower-colour here changing, through
white, to blue and bluish; Myosotis in front telling
charmingly against the dark-leaved Lithospermum.
At the highest points, next to a great crowning borlder,
is the Common Blue Iris and a paler one of the beautiful
Caparne series. Then down to the path where it begins
to turn is a drift of the bluish-lilac Phlox divaricata,
and, opposite the cross-path, some jewels of the newer
pale yellow Alyssum sulphureum. This rocky shoulder
is also enlivened by a natural-looking but very carefully
considered planting of white Tulips that run through
both the blue and the red regions.

THE SPRING GARDEN 29

The corner marked Near Rock is also a slightly
raised bank. The dark dots are cob-nuts ; the dotted
line between is where there are garlands of Clematis
montana that swing on ropes between the nuts. The
garlands dip down and nearly meet the flowers of some
pale pink Tree Peonies. Open spaces above the gar-
lands and under the meeting branches of the nuts give
glimpses of distant points where some little scheme
has been devised to please the eye, such as the bit of
bank to the left of Seat A, where there are two little
fish-like drifts of palest Aubrietia in a dense grey
setting of Cerastium.

The point of the Near Rock next the path agrees
with the colouring opposite, but also has features of
its own; a groundwork of grey Antennaria, the soft
lilac-pink of the good Aubrietia Moorheimi changing
to the left to the fuller pink of Phlox amena, and above
to the type colour of Aubrietia and some of the strong
purples such as the variety Dr. Mules. To the left,
towards the oaks, the colouring is mostly purple, with
stout tufts of the Spring Bitter Vetch (Ovobus vernus),
purple Wallflowers, and, under and behind the nuts,
purple Honesty. Thin streams of white Tulips inter-
mingle with other streams of pink Tulips that crown
the angle and flow down again to the main path between
ridges of double Arabis, white Iberis, and cloudy masses
of the pretty pale yellow Corydalis ochroleuca, which
spreads into a wide carpet under the Tree Peonies and
Clematis garlands.

Further along, just clear of the nuts, are some patches
of Dielytra spectabilis, its graceful growth arching out

30 COLOUR SCHEMES

over the lower stature of pink Tulips and harmonising
charmingly with the pinkish-green foliage of the Tree
Peonies just behind. The pink Tulips are here in some
quantity ; they run boldly into pools of pale blue
Myosotis, with more Iberis where the picture demands
the strongest, deepest green, and more Corydalis where
the softer, greyer tones will make it better.

The space marked Shade, always in shade from
the nuts and oaks, is planted with rather large patches
of the handsome white-flowered Dentaria, the graceful
North American Uvularia grandiflora, in habit like a
small Solomon’s Seal, but with yellow flowers much
larger in proportion ; with Myrrhis and purple Honesty
at the back and sheets of Sweet Woodruff to the front.

There are Tree Peonies in the long border and the
two others. It is difficult to grow them in my hot,
dry, sandy soil, even though I make them a liberal
provision of just such a compost as I think they will
like. I have noticed that they do best when closely
overshadowed by some other growing thing. In the
two near beds there are some Mme. Alfred Carriére Roses
that are trained to arch over to the angles, so as to com-
fort and encourage the Peonies. These beds have an
informal edging of Stachys lanata, one of the most useful
of plants for grey effects. Through it come white
Tulips in irregular patches.

The long border has also Tree Peonies planted about
two and a half feet from the edge. Partly to give the
bed a sort of backbone, and partly to shelter the Tree
Peonies, it has some bushes of Veronica Traversi and
one or two Leycesteria formosa. In the middle of the

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THE SPRING GARDEN 31

length is a clump of Lilium gigantewm and a biggish
grouping of Dielytra spectabilis. All along the outer
border there are patches and long straggling groups of
the pretty dwarf Irises of the pumila, olbiensis and
chame-tris sections, with others of the same class of
stature and habit. Any bare spaces are filled with
Wallflowers and Honesty in colours that accord with
the general arrangement. The narrow border has
mostly small shrubs, Berberis and so on, forming one
mass with the hedge to the left, which consists of a
double dry wall about four feet high, with earth between
and a thick growth on the top of Berberis, Rosa lucida
and Scotch Briers. Except the Berberis these make ‘no
show of flower within the blooming time of the spring
garden, but the whole is excellent as a background.

Red primroses are in the narrow border next to the
cross-wall ; the wall here is much lower than the longer
one on the right. The Primroses are grouped with
the reddish-leaved Heuchera Richardsoni, the two
together making a rich colour-harmony. Beyond them
are scarlet Tulips. The small shaded rounds in this
border and its continuation across the path into the
near end of the main border are stout larch posts
supporting a strong growth of Rose Mme. Alfred
Carriére and Clematis montana. These have grown
together into a solid continuously intermingling mass,
the path at C passing under a low arch of their united
branches. The high wall on the right is also covered
with flowering things of the early year, Morella Cherries,
Rubus deliciosus and Clematis montana, some of this
foaming over from the other side of the wall.

32 COLOUR SCHEMES.

The wall is a part, about a third of the length, of the
high wall that protects the large border of summer and
autumn flowers from the north, and that forms the
dividing-line between the pleasure garden proper and
the working garden beyond.

On the plan are letters with arrows referring to the
illustrations. The letter is at the spot where the
camera stood ; the arrow points to the middle of the
picture. Thus the one taken from D shows two-
thirds of the longest path with the end of the big wall
and the Yew hedge that prolongs its line on the right
and the Nut-trees on the left. The colouring on the
right is of pale purple Aubrietia and double white
Arabis, with pale Daffodils, and, at the back, groups
of sulphur Crown Imperial.

The more distant colouring is of brown Wallflower’
and red Tulip and the bright mahogany-coloured Crown
Imperial. The picture from E is done from among
the reds and strong yellows and looks to point C, and
’ further, through the arch of Rose and Clematis, to the
summer garden beyond. The other illustrations show
groups of colouring more in detail. The one from
F looks at Near Rock from one side. Over the
grey Stachys and its milk-white Tulips is seen the
flowery mass of pale and deep lilac, and pinkish lilac
with grey foliage, crowned with pink and white Tulips
near the foot of the Nuts. The picture from G
looks at the bit of bank called Further Rock with
its big piece of sandstone that looks as if it came
naturally out of the ground. Here is a mass of dead-
white Iberis with Tulips of a softer white, then the

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THE SPRING GARDEN 33

lilac-white of Phlox stellaria and the bluish lilac of
Phlox divaricata. The picture from H was done a
few days later. It shows the further mass of Phlox
divaricata more fully in bloom, and among the white
Tulips above, a pretty pale lilac-blue hybrid Iris and
some taller stems of the common Blue Flag Iris just
coming into blossom. This picture shows the value
of the dark Yew hedge as a background to the flowers.
Just at the back of the flowery bank are Hollies, and
then the hedge. This has not yet come to its full
height and the top still shows a ragged outline, but in
- two years’ time it will have grown into shape.

The Primrose garden is in a separate place among
Oaks and Hazels. It is for my special strain of large
yellow and white bunch Primroses, now arrived at a
state of fine quality and development by a system of
careful seed-selection that has been carried on for more

than thirty years.

CHAPTER IV

BETWEEN SPRING AND SUMMER

WHEN the Spring flowers are done, and before the full
June days come with the great Flag Irises and the
perennial Lupines, there is a kind of mid-season. If
it can be given a space of ground it will be well bestowed.
I have a place that I call the Hidden Garden, because
it is in a corner that might so easily be overlooked if
one did not know where to find it. No. important
path leads into it, though two pass within ten yards
of it oneither side. It is in a sort of clearing among
Tlex and Holly, and the three small ways into it are
devious and scarcely noticeable from the outside.
The most important of these, marked 1 on the plan,
passes between some clumps of over-arching Bamboo
and through a short curved tunnel of Yew and Ilex.
Another, marked 2, is only just traceable among
Berberis under a large Birch, and comes sharply
round a tall Monterey Cypress. The third turns out
of one of the shady woodland glades and comes into
the little garden by some rough stone steps.

The plan shows the simple arrangement, the paths
following the most natural lines that the place suggests.
The main path goes down some shallow, rough stone
steps with a sunny bank to the left and a rocky mound

34

STEPS TO THE HIDDEN GARDEN AT 3 ON PLAN.

PHLOX DIVARICATA AND ARENARIA MONTANA.

BETWEEN SPRING AND SUMMER 35

to the right. The mound is crowned with small
shrubs, Alpine Rhododendrons and Andromeda. Both
this and the left-hand bank have a few courses of
rough dry-walling next the path on its lowest level.
A little cross-path curves into the main one from the
right.

The path leaves the garden again by a repetition of
the rough stone steps. The mossy growth of Avenaria
balearica clings closely to the stones on their cooler
faces, and the frond-like growths of Solomon’s Seal
hang out on either side as a fitting prelude to the dim
mysteries of the wide green wood path beyond.

It is a garden for the last days of May and the
first fortnight of June.

Passing through the Yew tunnel, the little place
bursts on the sight with good effect. What is most
striking is the beauty of the blue-lilac Phlox divaricata
and that of two clumps of Tree Peony—the rosy
Baronne d’Alés and the pale salmon-pink Comtesse
de Tuder. The little garden, with its quiet environ-
ment of dark foliage, forbids the use of strong colouring,
or perhaps one should say that it suggested a restriction
of the scheme of colouring to the tenderer tones.
There seemed to be no place here for the gorgeous
Oriental Poppies, although they too are finest in partial
shade, or for any strong yellows, their character
needing wider spaces and clearer sunlight.

The Tree Peonies are in two groups of the two
kinds only ; it seemed enough for the limited space.
In front of Comtesse de Tuder is a group of Funkia
Sieboldi, its bluish leaves harmonising delightfully

36 COLOUR SCHEMES

with the leaf-colour of the Peonies ; next to them is
a corner of glistening deep green Asarum. No other
flowers of any size are near, but there are sheets of
the tender yellow bloom and pale foliage of Corydalis
ochroleuca, of the white-bloomed Woodruff, and the
pale green leafage of Epimedium ; and among them
tufts of Lent Hellebores, also in fresh young leaf, and
a backing of the feathery fronds of Lady Fern and of
the large Solomon’s Seal ; with drooping garlands of
Clematis montana hanging informally from some rough
branching posts. Yew-trees are at the back, and
then Beeches in tender young leaf.

The foot of the near mound is a pink cloud of London
Pride. Shooting up among it and just beyond is
the white St. Bruno’s Lily.’ More of this lovely little
lily-like Anthericum is again a few feet further along,
grouped with Ivis Cengialti, one of the bluest of the
Irises. The back of the mound has some of the
tenderly tinted Caparne hybrid Irises two feet high,
of pale lilac colouring, rising from among dark-leaved,
white-bloomed Iberis, and next the path a pretty, large-
flowered Tufted Pansy that nearly matches the Iris.

But the glory of the mound is the long stretch of
blue-lilac Phlox divaricata, whose colour is again
repeated by a little of the same on the sunny bank
to the left. Here it is grouped with pale pink Scotch
Brier, more pale yellow Corydalis and Arenaria montana
smothered in its masses of white bloom. At the end of
the bank the colour of the Phlox divaricata is deepened
by sheaves of Camassia esculenta that spear up through
it. The whole back of this bank has a free planting

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BETWEEN SPRING AND SUMMER 37

of graceful pale-coloured Columbines with long spurs,
garden kinds that come easily from seed and that were
originally derived from some North American species.
They are pale yellow and warm white ; some have the
outer portion of the flower of a faint purple, much like
that of some of the patches in an old, much-washed,
cotton patchwork quilt.

The dark trees on the right have rambling Roses
growing into them—Paul’s Carmine Pillar and the
Himalayan R. Brunonis. The red Rose does not
flower so freely here as on a pillar in sunlight, but its
fewer stems clamber high into the Holly, and the bloom
shows in thin natural wreaths that are even more
pleasing to an artist’s eye than the more ordered
abundance of the flowery post. At the foot of the
Hollies hardy Ferns grow luxuriantly in the constant
shade. A little later a few clumps of Lilies will spring
up from among them; the lovely pink rubellum, the
fine yellow szovitzianum, and the buff testaceum.

On the left-hand side, behind the sunny bank, a
Garland Rose comes through and tumbles out of a Yew,
and some sprays of an old bush of the single R. foly-
antha, that has spread to a circumference of one hundred
and fifty feet, have pushed their way through the Ilex.

The Hollies and Ilexes all round are growing fast,
and before many years are over the little garden will
become too shady for the well-being of the flowers that
now occupy it. It will then change its character
and become a Fern garden.

All gardening involves constant change. It is even
more so in woodland. A young bit of wood such as

38 COLOUR SCHEMES

mine is for ever changing. Happily, each new de-
velopment reveals new beauty of aspect or new
possibility of good treatment, such as, rightly appre-
hended and then guided, tends to a better state than’
before. .

Meanwhile the little tree-embowered garden has a
quiet charm of its own. It seems to delight in its
character of a Hidden Garden, and in the pleasant
surprise that its sudden discovery provokes. For
between it and its owner there is always a pretty little
play of pretending that there is no garden there,
and of being much surprised and delighted at finding,
not only that there is one, but quite a pretty one.

The Hidden Garden is so small in extent, and its
boundaries are already so well grown, that there is no
room for many of the beautiful things of the time of
year. For May is the time for the blooming of the
most important of our well-known flowering shrubs—
Lilac, Guelder Rose, White Broom, Laburnum, and
Pyrus Malus floribunda. But one shrub, as beautiful
as any of these and as easily grown, seems to be for-
gotten. This is Exochorda grandiflora—telated to the
Spireas. Its pearl-like buds have earned it the name
of Pearl Bush, but its whole lovely bloom should before
now have secured it a place in every good garden.

Every one knows the Guelder Rose, with its round
white flower-balls, but the wild shrub of which this
is a garden variety is also a valuable ornamental bush
and should not be neglected. It is a native plant,
growing in damp places, such as the hedges of water-
meadows and the sides of streams. The English name

WULFENII.

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[RISES AND LUPINES IN: THE JUNE GARDEN.

BETWEEN SPRING AND SUMMER 39

is Water Elder. Its merit as a garden shrub does not
lie, as in the Guelder Rose, in its bloom, but in its
singularly beautiful fruit. This, in autumn, lights
up the whole shrub with a ruddy radiance. Grown
on drier ground than that of its natural habitat, it
takes a closer, more compact form.

White Broom is in flower from the middle of May
to the second week of June. There is a fine Flag Iris
of a rich purple colour called ‘‘ Purple King.”’ It is
well to grow it just in front of some young bushes of
White Broom. Then, if one of the hybrid Irises of
pale lilac colour is there as well, and a bush of Rosa
altaica, the colour-effect will be surprisingly beautiful.
This Rose is the bolder-growing, Asiatic equivalent
of our Burnet Rose (R. sPinosissima), with the same
lemon-white flowers. When any such group contain-
ing White Broom is planted, it should be remembered
that the tendency of the Broom is to grow tall and
leggy. It bears pruning, but it is a good plan to
plant some extra ones behind the others. After a
couple of years, if the front plants have grown out of
bounds, the back ones can be bent down and fastened
to sticks, so that their heads come in the required
places. It is one of the many ways in which a pretty
garden picture may be maintained from year to year
by the exercise of a little thought and ingenuity. The
undergrowth of such a group may be of Solomon’s
Seal at the back, and, if the bank or border is in sun,
of a lower groundwork of Iberis and Corydalis ochro-
leuca, or, if it is shaded, of Tiarella, Woodruff or
Anemone sylvestris. With these, for the sake of their

40 COLOUR SCHEMES

tender green foliage, there may well be Uvularia
grandiflora and Epimedium pinnatum. There is now
a dwarf form of the White Broom, a plant not only
less in height but of a more close and compact shape,
that is useful for grouping in front of the older,
taller one as well as for use in places where the original
plant is too large.

A wonderful plant of May is the great Euphorbia
Wulfenit. It adapts itself to many ways of use, for,
though the immense yellow-green heads of bloom are
at their best in May, they are still of pictorial value in
June and July, while the deep-toned, grey-blue foliage
is in full beauty throughout the greater part of the
year. It is valuable in boldly arranged flower borders,
and holds its own among shrubs of moderate size, but
I always think its best use would be in the boldest
kind of rock-work.

One of my desires that can never be fulfilled is to
have a rocky hill-side in full sun, so steep as to be
almost precipitous, with walls of bare rock only broken
by ledges that can be planted. I would have great
groups of Yucca standing up against the sky and
others in the rock-face, and some bushes of this great
Euphorbia and only a few other plants, all of rather
large grey effect ; Phlomis, Lavender, Rosemary and
Cistus, with Othonna hanging down in long sheets
over the bare face of the warm rock. It would be a
rock-garden on an immense scale, planted as Nature
plants, with not many different things at a time.
The restriction to a few kinds of plants would give
the impression of spontaneous growth ; of that large,

BETWEEN SPRING AND SUMMER 41

free, natural effect that is so rarely achieved in arti-
ficial planting. Besides natural hill-sides, there must
be old quarries within or near the pleasure-grounds
of many places in our islands where such a scheme of
planting could worthily be carried out.

CHAPTER V
THE JUNE GARDEN

BrEyonp the lawn and a belt of Spanish Chestnut I
have a little cottage that is known as the Hut. I
lived in it for two years while my house was building,
and may possibly live in it again for the sake of re-
plenishing an over-drained exchequer, if the ideal
well-to-do invalid flower-lover or some such very quiet
summer tenant, to whom alone I could consent to
surrender my dear home for a few weeks, should be
presented by a kind Providence: Meanwhile it -is
always in good use for various purposes, such as seed-
drying, pot-pourrt preparing, and the like.

The garden in front and at the back is mainly a
June garden. It has Peonies, Irises, Lupines, and
others of the best flowers of the season, and a few for
later blooming. The entrance.to the Hut is through
Yews that arch overhead. Close to the right is a tall
Holly with a Clematis montana growing into it and
tumbling out at the top. The space of garden to the
left, being of too deep a shape to be easily got at from
the path on the one side and the stone paving on the
other, has a kind of dividing backbone made of a
double row of Rose hoops or low arches, rising from
good greenery of Male Fern and the fern-like Sweet

42

ONTOGHA TRINGOLNI NEOSKP WOILSP YT

PART OF THE GARLAND ROSE AT THE ANGLE OF THE
HUT GARDEN.

THE JUNE GARDEN 44

Cicely. This handsome plant (Myrrhis odorata) is of
great use in many ways. It will grow anywhere,
and has the unusual merit of making a good show of
foliage quite early in the year. It takes two years
to get to a good size, sending its large, fleshy, aromatic
roots deep down into the soil. By the end of May,
when the bloom is over and the leaves are full grown,
they can be cut right down, when the plant will at
once form a new set of leaves that remain fresh for the
rest of the summer. Its chief use is as a good foliage
accompaniment or background to flowers, and no plant
is better for filling up at the bases of shrubs that look
a little leggy near the ground, or for any furnishing
of waste or empty spaces, especially in shade. From
among the Ferns and Myrrhis at the back of this bit
of eastern border rise white Foxgloves, the great white
Columbine, and the tall stems of white Peach-leaved
Campanula. Nearer to the front are clumps of
Peonies. But, as one of the most frequented paths
passes along this eastern border, it was thought best
not to confine it to June flowers only, but to have
something also for the later months. All vacant
places are therefore filled with Pentstemons and Snap-
dragons, which make a show throughout the summer ;
while for the early days of July there are clumps of the
old garden Roses—Damask and Provence. The whole
south-western angle is occupied by a well-grown
Garland Rose that every summer is loaded with its
graceful wreaths of bloom. It has never been trained
or staked, but grows as a natural fountain; the
branches are neither pruned nor’shortened. The only

44 COLOUR SCHEMES

attention it receives is that every three or four years
the internal mass of old dead wood is cut right out,
when the bush seems to spring into new life.

Passing this angle and going along the path leading
to the studio door in the little stone-paved court,
there is a seat under an arbour formed by the Yews ;
the front of it has a Dundee Rambler Rose supported
by a rough wooden framework. On the right, next
the paving, are two large standard Roses with heads
three and four feet through. They are old garden
Roses, worked in cottage fashion on a common Dog-
rose stock. One is Céleste, of loveliest tender rose
colour, its broad bluish leaves showing its near relation-
ship to Rosa alba ; the other the white Mme. Plantier.
This old Rose, with its abundant bunches of pure
white flowers, always seems to me to be one of the
most charming of the older garden kinds. It will
grow in almost any way, and is delightful in all; asa
pillar, as a hedge, as a bush, as a big cottage standard,
or in the border tumbling about among early summer
flowers. Like the Blush Gallica, which just precedes
it in time of blooming, it is one of the old picture Roses.
Both should be in quantity in every garden, and yet
they are but rarely to be seen.

The border next the paving has clumps of the old
garden Peonies (P. officinalis). By the time these
are over, towards the end of June, groups of the
earlier orange Herring Lilies are in bloom. Athick and
rather high Box edging neatly trims these borders,
and favours the cottage-garden sentiment that is
fostered in this region. At the back of the Yews that

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THE JUNE GARDEN 45

form the arbour is one end of the Hidden Garden.
Going along the path, past the projection on the block-
plan of the Hut, which represents the large ingle of the
studio, we come to the other bit of June garden behind
the little cottage. Here again, the space being over-
wide, it is divided in the middle by a double border of
Rosemary that is kept clipped and is not allowed to
rise high enough to prevent ‘access to the border on
each side.

On the side next the Hut the flowers are mostly of
lilac and purple colouring with white. Pale lilac Irises,
including the fine I. Pallida dalmatica and the rosy-
lilac variety, Queen of the May; perennial Lupines,.
white, bluish lilac and purple—one of a conspicuous
and rare deep red-purple of extreme richness without
the slightest taint of a rank quality—a colour I can
only call a strong wine-purple ; then a clump of the
feathery, ivory-white Spive@a Aruncus, the large
Meadowsweet that is so fine by the side of alpine
torrents. There are also some flesh-pink Albiflora
Peonies and lower growths of Catmint, and of the
grand blue-purple Cranesbill, Geranium ibericum platy-
phyllum, with white and pale yellow Spanish Irises
in generous tufts springing up between. At the blunt
angle nearly opposite the dovecote is a pink cloud of
London Pride ; beyond it pale yellow Violas with more
white Spanish Iris, leading to a happy combination of
the blue Ivis Cengialtti and the bushy Aster Olearia
Gunni, smothered in its white starry bloom. An early
flowering Flag Iris, named Chameleon, nearly matches
the colour of J. Cengialti ; it is the bluest that I know

46 COLOUR SCHEMES

of the Flag Irises, and is planted between and around
the Olearias to form part of the colour-picture.

Beyond this group, and only separated from it by
some pale yellow Irises, are two plants of the Dropmore
Anchusa Opal, marked A on the plan, of pure pale
blue, and another clump of Spivea Aruncus, marked
S, and one of a good pure white Lupine, with some
tall clear yellow Irises and white Foxgloves. Now
the colouring changes, passing through a group or
two of the rich half-tones of Irises of the sgualens
section to the perennial Poppies; P. rupifragum
nearest the path and, next to it, P. pilosum: both of
a rich apricot colour. Backing these is a group of
the larger hybrid that nearly always occurs in gardens
where there are both P. rupifragum and P. orientale.
In appearance it is a small ovtentale with a strong look
of rupifragum about the foliage. As a garden plant
it has the advantages of being of an intermediate size
and of having a long season of bloom, a quality no
doubt inherited from rupifragum, which will flower
more or less throughout the summer if the seed-pods
are removed. A plant of Oriental Poppy of the tone
of orange-scarlet that I know as red-lead colour,
and some deep orange Lilies complete this strongly
coloured group.

In the north-western clump, where there are some
Thorn-trees and two Thuyas, the dominant feature
is the great bush of an old garden rambling Rose that
looks as if its parentage was somewhere between
sempervirens and arvensis. I can neither remember
how I came by it nor match it with any nursery kind,

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40

THE JUNE GARDEN 47

It stands nearly opposite the Hut kitchen window,
and when in full bloom actually sheds light into the
room. I know it as the Kitchen Rose. The diameter
of the bush is even greater than the plan shows, for
it overwhelms the nearest Thuya and rushes through
the Thorn, and many of its shoots are within hand-
reach of the back path. The rest of this clump is
occupied by plants of tall habit—the great Mullein
(Verbascum orientale), the Giant Cow-Parsnip (Hera-
cleum Mantegazzianum), and white Foxgloves.

The plan shows how the border of early bulbs,
described in a former chapter (now a mass of hardy
Ferns, as shown at p. 7), lies in relation to this part
of the garden. There is also a grand mass of Oriental
Poppy and Orange Lilies in half-shade on the other
side of the path, where it turns and is bordered with
Berberis. This makes a fine distant effect of strong
colour looking north-west from the southern end of
the bulb-border.

I greatly wish I could have some other June borders
for the still better use of the Flag Irises, but not only
have I quite as much dressed ground as I can afford
to keep up, but the only space where such borders
could be made has to be nursery-ground of plants for
sale. But though I am denied this pleasure myself,
I should like to suggest it to others, and therefore give
plans of two borders of different colourings. There
would be no great harm if they came opposite each
other, though perhaps, as colour schemes, they would
be rather better seen singly and quite detached from
each other.

48 COLOUR SCHEMES

It must be remembered, as in all cases of planting
flower borders, that they cannot be expected to show
their full beauty the year after planting. Irises will
give a few blooms the first season, but are not in
strength till their second and third years. China
Roses must have time to grow. Tree Lupines must be
planted young, and though they make rapid growth,
they also do not fill their spaces till the third year.
Lupine Somerset is a desirable hybrid, not quite
a true Tree Lupine, though it has a half-woody growth.
Its best colour is a clear, lively light yellow, but it
readily varies from seed to whitish or washy purplish -
tints. As the seedlings often show bloom the first
season in the seed-bed, the colours should be noted ©
and marked, for some of the light purples are pretty
things, with more refinement of character than the
same colourings in.the old Tree Lupines.. Both the
tree and hybrid kinds may have their lives much
prolonged—for if they are not specially treated they.
are short-lived things—by judicious pruning. After
flowering, each. branch should be cut well back. It
is not enough to cut away the flowers, but every branch
should be shortened about two-thirds as soon as the
bloom is over and the seed-pods begin to form.

The plans show the two schemes of colouring. The
upper is of white, lilac, purple and pink, with grey
foliage ; the lower of white, yellow, bronze-yellow
and, for the most part, rich green foliage. They
will show mainly as Iris and Lupine borders, and
are intended to display the beauty of these two
grand plants of early summer. The kinds of Iris are

WHITE TREE LUPINE.

‘MHUMOP LSADAVK ATMO AHL Nt ANOQL NI LNINLVO

THE JUNE GARDEN 49

carefully considered for their height, time of blooming
and colour value. In the yellow border is one patch
of clear, pale pure blue, the Dropmore Anchusa Opal,
grouped with pale yellows and white.

In the purple border are some important front-edge
patches of the beautiful Catmint (Nepeta Mussini), a
plant that can hardly be over-praised. The illustra-
tion shows it in a part of a border-front that is to be
for August. For a good three weeks in June it makes
this border a pretty place, although the Catmint is
its only flower. But with the white-grey woolly
patches of Stachys and the half-grown bushes of
Gypsophila, and the Lavender and other plants of
greyish foliage, the picture is by no means incomplete.
Its flowery masses, seen against the warm yellow of
the sandy path, give the impression of remarkably
strong and yet delightfully soft colouring. The colour
itself is a midway purple, between light and dark, of
just the most pleasing quality. As soon as the best
of the bloom is done it is carefully cut over ; then the
lateral shoots just below the main flower-spike that
has been taken out will gain strength and bloom again
at the border’s best show-time in August. In another
double flower border that is mostly for the September-
blooming Michaelmas Daisies the Catmint is cut back

a little later.

One of the joys of June is the beauty of the Scotch
Briars. On the south side of the house there are Figs
and Vines, Rosemary and China Roses, and then a
path, from which easy stone steps lead up to the strip of

50 COLOUR SCHEMES

lawn some fifty feet wide that skirts the wood. To
right and left of the steps, for a length equal to that
of the house-front, is a hedge of these charming little
Roses. They are mostly double white, but some are
rosy and some yellow. When it is not in flower the
mass of small foliage is pleasant to see, and even in
‘winter leaflessness the tangle of close-locked branches
has an appearance of warm brown comfort that makes
it good to have near a house.

June is also the time of some of the best of the
climbing plants and slightly tender shrubs that we
have against walls and treat as climbers, such as
Solanum crisbum and Abuitlon vitifolium and the
hardy Clematis montana; but some notes on these
will be offered in a further chapter.

One is always watching and trying for good com-
binations of colour that occur or that may be composed.
Besides such as are shown in the plans, the following
have been noted for June : ‘

In rock-work the tiny China Rose Pompon de Paris,
also the tender pink Fairy Rose, with pale lilac Tufted
Pansy and Achillea umbellata.

The pretty pale pink dwarf Rose Mignonette, with
the lilac of Catmint (Nepeta Mussint) and the grey-
white foliage of Stachys and Cimevaria maritima.

In a cool, retired place in a shrubbery margin,
away from other flowers, the misty red-grey-purple
of Thalictrum aquilegifolium purpureum with the warm
white foam-colour of Spiv@a Aruncus.

On bold rock-work, a mass of a fine-coloured strain
of Valerian (Centranihus) with a deep scarlet-crimson

RIARS,

>

SCOTCH 5

(St and aas)
‘STUGAINVUOD AHL AOLSHTA AHL § WATIAHAIALV Id WOOIMATI NWOINVYUTD

THE JUNE GARDEN 51

Snapdragon. This is a success of reciprocally enhancing
texture as well as colour; the texture having that
satisfying quality that one recognises in the relation
of the cut and uncut portions of the fine old Italian
cut-velvets.

In April Campernelle Jonquil with Myosotis dis-
sitiflora.

In May the true Pulmonaria azurea with the white
form of Scilla italica.

In a shrubbery edge, or some cool, half shady place,
the purple form of Thalictrum aquilegifolium with
white Foxgloves, and in the same kind of place Cam-
panula macrantha alba and the fine purple Cam-
panula macrocarpa with Male Fern or Lady Fern.

In an open, sunny place Eryngium giganteum with
Sea-kale.

In a section of flower border given to purple flowers
Salvia Sclarea with S. virgata, and purple-leaved Sage
at the foot.

CHAPTER VI
THE MAIN HARDY FLOWER BORDER

Tue big flower border is about two hundred feet long
and fourteen feet wide. It is sheltered from the north
by a solid sandstone wall about eleven feet high clothed
for the most part with evergreen shrubs—Bay and
Laurustinus, Choisya, Cistus and Loquat. These show
as a handsome background to the flowering plants.
They are in a three-foot-wide border at the foot of the
wall; then there is a narrow alley, not seen from the
front, but convenient for access to the wall shrubs and
for working the back of the border.

As it is impossible to keep any one flower border
fully dressed for the whole summer, and as it suits me
that-it should be at its best in the late summer, there
is no attempt to have it full of flowers as early as June.
Another region belongs to June; so that at that time
the big border has only some incidents of good bloom,
though the ground is rapidly covering with the strong
patches, most of them from three to five years old, of
the later-blooming perennials. But early in the month
there are some clumps of the beautiful Ivis Palhida
dalmatica in the regions of grey foliage, and of the
splendid blue-purple bloom of Geranium ibericum
platyphylium, the best of the large Cranesbills, and the

52

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HOFITOL ATYD HAIIAL ‘SUPLISF ATUFA GNF (WALFYUOPF WATT

‘NODFUACAIENS ‘FHONPFUGAA ‘FIONA 2 UaININIS TLV T NI df aduOd UTAOTH AHL

‘SAHOVIS GNY VHSVOTW
‘VIONFYUAAH ‘VWOOQA § MACMOU MAMOTL AHL ONIGIAIG MIVAL SSOMD FHL

THE HARDY FLOWER BORDER _ 53

slow-growing Dictamnus Fraxinella (the white variety),
and Meadowsweets white and pink, Foxgloves and
Canterbury Bells, and to the front some long-established
sheets of Iberis sempervirens that have grown right
on to the path. The large Yuccas, Y. gloriosa and
Y. recurva, are throwing up their massive spikes, though
it will be July before they actually flower, and the
blooms on some bushes of the great Euphorbia Wulfenii,
although they were flowers of May and their almost
yellow colour is turning greener, are still conspicuous
and ornamental. Then the plants in the middle of
the wall, Choisya ternata and Clematis montana are still
full of white ‘bloom, and the Guelder Rose is hanging
out its great white balls. I like to plant the Guelder
Rose and Clematis montana together. Nothing does
better on north or east walls, and it is pleasant to see
the way the Clematis flings its graceful garlands over
and through the stiff branches of the Viburnum.

The more brilliant patches of colour in the big border
in June are of Oriental Poppies intergrouped with
Gypsophila, which will cover their space when they
have died down, and the earlier forms of Liliwm croceum
of that dark orange colour that almost approaches
scarlet. .

During the first week of June any bare spaces of the
border are filled up with half-hardy annuals, and some
of what we are accustomed to call bedding-plants—such
as Geranium, Salvia, Calceolaria, Begonia, Gazania and
Verbena. The half-hardy annuals are African Mari-
gold, deep orange and pale sulphur, pure white single
Petunia, tall Ageratum, tall striped Maize, white

54 COLOUR SCHEMES

Cosmos, sulphur Sunflower, Phlox Drummondt, Nas-
turtiums, and Tvachelium ceruleum. Dahlias were
planted out in May, and earlier still the Hollyhocks,
quite young plants that are to bloom in August and
September ; the autumn-planted ones flowering earlier.
The ground was well cleared of weeds before these were
planted, and, soon after, the whole border had a good
mulch of a mixture of half-rotted leaves and old hot-
bed stuff. This serves the double purpose of keeping
the soil cool and of affording gradual nutriment when
water is given.

The planting of the border is designed to show a
distinct scheme of colour arrangement. At the two
ends there is a groundwork of grey and glaucous foliage
—Stachys, Santolina, Cinevaria maritima, Sea-kale
and Lyme-grass, with darker foliage, also of grey
quality, of Yucca, Clematis recta and Rue. With this,
at the near or western end, there are flowers of pure
blue, grey-blue, white, palest yellow and palest pink ;
each colour partly in distinct masses and partly inter-
grouped, The colouring then passes through stronger
yellows to orange and red. By the time the middle
space of the border is reached the colour is strong and
gorgeous, but, as it is in good harmonies, it is never
garish. Then the colour strength recedes in an inverse
sequence through orange and deep yellow to pale yellow,
white and palest pink; again with blue-grey foliage.
But at this, the eastern end, instead of the pure blues
we have purples and lilacs.

Looked at from a little way forward, for a wide space

THE HARDY FLOWER BORDER 55
of grass allows this point of view, the whole border
can be seen as one picture, the cool colouring at the
ends enhancing the brilliant warmth of the middle.
Then, passing along the wide path next the border, the
value of the colour arrangement is still more strongly
felt. Each portion now becomes a picture in itself,
and every one is of such a colouring that it best prepares
the eye, in accordance with natural law, for what is to
follow. Standing tor a few moments before the end-
most region of grey and blue, and saturating the eye
to its utmost capacity with these colours, it passes
with extraordinary avidity to the succeeding yellows.
These intermingle in a pleasant harmony with the reds
and scarlets, blood-reds and clarets, and then lead
again to yellows. Now the eye has again become satu-
rated, this time with the rich colouring, and has there-
fore, by the law of complementary colour, acquired
a strong appetite for the greys and purples. These
therefore assume an appearance of brilliancy that they
would not have had without the preparation provided
by their recently received complementary colour.

There are well-known scientific toys illustrating this
law. A short word, printed in large red letters, is
looked at for half a minute. The eyes are shut and
an image of the same word appears, but the letteriag
is green. Many such experiments may be made ‘in
the open garden. The brilliant orange African Mari-
gold has leaves of a rather dull green colour. But look
steadily at the flowers for thirty seconds in sunshine
and then look at the leaves. The leaves appear to be
bright blue!

56 COLOUR SCHEMES

Even when a flower border is devoted to a special
season, as mine is given to the time from mid-July to
October, it cannot be kept fully furnished without
resorting to various contrivances. One of these is the
planting of certain things that will follow in season of
bloom and that can be trained to take each other’s
places. Thus, each plant of Gypsophila paniculata
when full grown covers a space a good four feet wide.
On each side of it, within reasonable distance of the
root, I plant Oriental Poppies. These make their leaf
and flower growth in early summer when the Gypso-
phila is still in a young state. The Poppies will have
died down by the time the Gypsophila is full grown
and has covered them. After this has bloomed the
seed-pods turn brown, and though a little of this
colouring is not harmful in the autumn border, yet it
is not wanted in such large patches. We therefore
grow at its foot, or within easy reach, some of the
trailing Nasturtiums, and lead them up so that they
cover the greater part of the brown seed-spray.

Delphiniums, which are indispensable for July, leave
bare stems with quickly yellowing leafage when the
flowers are over. We plant behind them the white
Everlasting Pea, and again behind that, Clematis
Jackmanii. When the Delphiniums are over, the
rapidly forming seed-pods are removed, the stems are
cut down to just the right height, and the white Peas
are trained over them. When the Peas go out of bloom
in the middle of August, the Clematis is brought over.
It takes some years for these two plants to become
established ; in the case of those I am describing the

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Dp 4 8 Fybrud) CAimonan fie Fuchsia RRL VRE _ IW Toisy| oe Che

PLAN OF THE MAIN FLOWER BORDER.

—

ANTS.

109

Y OF THE MAIN FLOWER BORDER.

THE HARDY FLOWER BORDER 57

Pea has been four or five years planted and the Clematis
seven. They cannot be hurried ; indeed, in my garden
it is difficult to get the Clematis to grow at all. But
good gardening means patience and dogged deter-
Mnination. There must be many failures and losses,
but by always pushing on there will also be the reward
of success. Those who do not know are apt to think
that hardy flower gardening of the best kind is easy.
It is not easy at all. It has taken me half a lifetime
merely to find out what is best worth doing, and a
good slice out of another half to puzzle out the ways
of doing it.

In addition to these three plants that I grow over
one another I am now adding a fourth—the September-
blooming Clematis Flammula. It must not be supposed
that they are just lumped one over another so that the
under ones have their leafy growths smothered. They
are always being watched, and, bit by bit, the earlier
growths are removed as soon as their respective plants
are better without them.

Then there is the way of pulling down tall plants
whose natural growth is upright. At the back of the
yellow part of the border are some plants of a form of
Helianthus orgyalis, trained down, as described later
at p.72. But other plants can be treated in the same
way; the tall Rudbeckia Golden Glow, and Dahlias
and Michaelmas Daisies. The tall Snapdragons can
also be pulled down and made to cover a surprising
space of bare ground with flowering side-shoots.

‘As it is still impossible to prevent the occurrence of
a blank here and there, or as the scene, viewed as a

58 COLOUR SCHEMES

picture, may want some special accentuation or
colouring, there is the way of keeping a reserve of
plants in pots and dropping them in where they may
be wanted. The thing that matters is that, in its
season, the border shall be kept full and beautiful;
by what means does not matter in the least. For this
sort of work some of the most useful plants are Hy- -
drangeas, Lilium longiflorum, candidum and auratum,

and Campanula pyramidalis, both white and blue, and,

for foliage, Funkia grandiflora, F. Sieboldi and hardy

Ferns. .

An important matter is that of staking and support-
ing. The rule, as I venture to lay it down, is that
sticks and stakes must never show. They must be so
arranged that they give the needful support, while
allowing the plant its natural freedom ; but they must
remain invisible. The only time when they are tolerated -
is for the week or two when they have been put in for
Dahlias, when the plants have not yet grown up to
cover them.

Michaelmas Daisies we stake with great care in June,
putting in some stiff branching spray of oak or chest-
nut among the growths and under their fronts. At the
end of June we also nip the tops of some of the forward
growths of the plants so as to vary the outline.:

There are two borders of Michaelmas Daisies, one
for the earlier sorts that flower in September and the
other for the October kinds. They are in places that
need not often be visited except in the blooming season,
therefore we allow the supporting spray to be seen
while the plants are growing. But early in August

GOOD STAKRING—CAMPANULA PERSICIFOLIA.

DAISIES,

LMAS

R MICHAE

-THE LATE

STAKING-

RUL

CARE

THE HARDY FLOWER BORDER 59

in the case of the September border, and early in
September in the case of the one for October, we go
round and regulate the plants, settling them among
the sticks in their definite positions. When this is
done every atom of projecting spray is cut away with
the sécateur.

I hold that nothing unsightly should be seen in the
garden. The shed for sticks and stakes is a lean-to at
one end of the barn, showing to the garden. The roof
had to be made at a very low pitch, and there was no
roofing material suitable but galvanised iron. But a
depth of four inches of peaty earth was put over the
iron, and now it is a garden of Stonecrops and other
plants that flourish in shallow soil in a hot exposure.

To prevent undue disappointment, those who wish
for beautiful flower borders and whose enthusiasm is
greater than their knowledge, should be reminded that
if a border is to be planted for pictorial effect, it is’
impossible to maintain that effect and to have the
space well filled for any period longer than three
months, and that even for such a time there will have
to be contrivances such as have been described.

It should also be borne in mind that a good hardy
flower border cannot be made all at once. Many of
the most indispensable perennials take two, three or
even more years to come to their strength and beauty.
The best way is to plant the border by a definite plan,
allowing due space for the development of each plant.
Then, for the first year or two, a greater number of
half-hardy annuals and biennials than will eventually
be needed should be used to fill the spaces that have

60 COLOUR SCHEMES

not yet been taken up by the permanent plants.
The best of these are Pentstemons and Snapdragons,
the Snapdragons grown both as annuals and biennials,
for so an extended season of bloom is secured. Then
there should be African and French Marigolds, the
smaller annual Sunflowers, Zinnias, Plume Celosias,
China Asters, Stocks, Foxgloves, Mulleins, Ageratum,
Phlox Drummondi and Indian Pinks; also hardy
annuals—Lupines of several kinds, Chrysanthemum
coronarium, the fine pink Mallows, Love-in-a-Mist,
Nasturtiums or any others that are liked.

CHAPTER VII
THE FLOWER BORDER IN JULY

Towarps the end of July the large flower border begins
to show its scheme. Until then, although it has been
well filled with growing plants, there has been no
attempt to show its whole intention. But now this
is becoming apparent. The two ends, as already
described, are of grey foliage, with, at the near end,
flowers of pale blue, white and lightest yellow. The
tall spikes of pale blue Delphinium are over, and now
there are the graceful grey-blue flowers of Campanula
lactiflora that stand just in front of the great Larkspurs.
At the back is a white Everlasting Pea, four years
planted and now growing tall and strong. The over-
blown flowers of the Delphinium have been removed,
but their stems have been left just the right height for
supporting the growth of the white Pea, which is now
trained over them and comes forward to meet the
pale blue-white Campanula. In front of this there is
a drift of Rue, giving a beautiful effect of dim grey
colour and softened shadow; it is crowned by its
spreading corymbs of pale yellow bloom that all rise
nearly toa level. Again in front is the grand glaucous
foliage of Sea-kale. A little further along, and towards

the back, is a bush of Golden Privet, taking up and
or

62 COLOUR SCHEMES

continuing the pale yellow of the Rue blossom, and
forming a kind of groundwork to a group of the fine
Mullein Verbascum phlomoides now fully out. Just
below this is a clump of the Double Meadowsweet,
a mass of warm white flower-foam. Intergrouped are
tall Snapdragons, white and palest yellow. Then
forward are the pale blue-green sword-blades of Iris
Pallida dalmatica that flowered in June. This is one
of the few Irises admitted to the border, but it is here
because it has the quality, rare among its kind, of
maintaining its great leaves in beauty to near the
end of the year. Quite to the front are lower-growing
plants of purest blue—the Cape Daisy (Agathea
celestis) and blue Lobelia.

Now we pass to a rather large group of Eryngium
oliverianum, the fine kind that is commonly but
wrongly called E. amethystinum. It is a deep-rooting
perennial that takes three to four years to become
strongly established. In front of this are some pale
and darker blue Spiderworts (Tvadescantia virginica),
showing best in cloudy weather. At the back is
Thalictrum flavum, whose bloom is a little overpast,
though it still shows some of its foamy-feathery pale
yellow. Next we come to stronger yellows, with a
middle mass of a good home-grown form of Coreopsis
lanceolata. This is fronted by a stretch of Helenium
pumilum. Behind the Coreopsis are Achillea Eupa-
torium and yellow Cannas,

Now the colour strengthens with the Scarlet Balm
or Bergamot, intergrouped with Senecio artemisia-
Jolius, a plant little known but excellent in the flower

THE FLOWER BORDER IN JULY 63

border. A few belated Orange Lilies have their colour
nearly repeated by the Gazanias next to the path.
The strong colour is now carried on by Lychnis chalce-
donica, scarlet Salvia, Lychnis haageana (a fine plant
that is much neglected), and some of the dwarf Trope-
olums of brightest scarlet. After this we gradually
return to the grey-blues, whites and pale yellows,
with another large patch of Eryngium oliverianum,
white Everlasting Pea, Calceolaria, and the splendid
leaf-mass of a wide and high plant of Euphorbia
Wulfenti, which, with the accompanying Yuccas, rises
to a height far above my head. Passing between a
clump of Yuccas on either side is the cross-walk
leading by an arched gateway through the wall. The
border beyond this is a shorter length, and has a whole
ground of grey foliage—Stachys, Santolina, Elymus,
Cineraria maritima, and Sea-kale. Then another
group of Rue, with grey-blue foliage and pale yellow
bloom, shows near the extreme end against the full
green of the young summer foliage of the Yew arbour
that comes at the end of the border. Again at this
end is the tall Campanula lactiflora. In the nearer
middle a large mass of purple Clematis is trained
over stiff, branching spray, and is beginning to show
its splendid colour, while behind, and looking their
best in the subdued light of the cloudy morning on
which these notes are written, are some plants of
Verbascum phlomordes, ten feet high, showing a great
cloud of pure pale yellow. They owe their vigour
to being self-sown seedlings, never transplanted.
Instead of having merely a blooming spike, as is the

64 COLOUR SCHEMES

usual way of those that are planted, these have abun-
dant side branches. They dislike bright sunshine,
only expanding fully in shade or when the day is
cloudy and inclined to be rainy. Close to them, rising
to the wall’s whole eleven feet of height, is a Cistus
cyprius, bearing a quantity of large white bloom with
a deep red spot at the base of each petal.

Though there is as yet but little bloom in this end
-of the border, the picture is complete and satisfying.
Each one of the few flower-groups tells to the utmost,
while the intervening masses of leafage are in them-
selves beautiful and have the effect of being relatively
well disposed. There is also such rich promise of
flower beauty to come that the mind is filled with glad
anticipation, besides feeling content for the time being
with what it has before it. There is one item of
colouring that strikes the trained eye as specially
delightful. It is a bushy mass of Clematis recta, now
out of bloom. It occurs between the overhanging
purple Clematis and the nearer groups of Cineraria
maritima and Santolina. The leaves are much deeper
in tone than these and have a leaden sort of blueness,
but the colouring, both of the parts in light and even
more of the mysterious shadows, is in the highest
degree satisfactory and makes me long for the appre-
ciative presence of those few friends who are artists
both on canvas and in their gardens, and most of all
for that of one who is now dead. * but to whom I
owe, with deepest thankfulness, a precious memory of

forty years of helpful and sympathetic guidance and
* The late H. B. Brabazon.

‘GNONHY SYHCUOd AYUD /AANPTYLO FT YSOM ALIA

FINE i

‘PLOUA SIL YNATO

THE FLOWER BORDER IN JULY 65

encouragement in the observation and study of colour
beauty.

One cannot write of the garden in July without a
word on the Roses. Besides the bushy garden Roses,
and the kinds of special charm, such as Damask,
Provence, Moss and China, those that most nearly
concern the garden for beauty and pictorial effect
are the rambling and climbing Roses that flower in
clusters.

In “ Roses for English Gardens ’’ I dealt at some
length with the many ways of using them; here I
must only touch upon one or two of these ways. But
I wish to remind my readers of the great value of
these free Roses for running up through such trees as
Yews or Hollies in regions where garden joins hands
with woodland, and also of their great usefulness for
forming lines of arch and garland as an enclosure to
some definite space. I have them like this forming
the boundary on two sides of a garden of long beds,
whose other two sides are a seven-foot wall and the
back of a stable and loft. Just beyond the arch in
the picture (p. 64), and dividing the little garden in
two, is the short piece of double border that is devoted
to August.

The other long beds in this region are for special
combinations, some of them of July flowers; e.g.,
Orange Lilies with the beautiful Clematis recta, a plant
but little known, though it is easy to grow and is one
of the best of summer flowers. One bed is for blue
colouring with grey foliage. Here is the lovely

66 COLOUR SCHEMES

Delphinium Belladonna, with flowers of a blue purer
than that of any other of its beautiful kind. It never
grows tall, nor has it the strong, robust aspect of
the larger ones, but what it lacks in vigour is more
than made up for by the charming refinement of the
whole plant. In the same bed are the other pure blues
of the rare double Siberian Larkspur, and the single
allied kind Delphinium grandiflorum, of Salvia patens
and of the Cape Daisy (Agathea celestis). Between the
clumps of Belladonna are bushes of white Lavender,
and the whole is carpeted and edged with the white
foliage of Artemisia stelleriana, the quite hardy plant
that is such a good substitute for the tenderer
Cineraria maritima.

Among the best flowers of July that have a place
in this garden are the Pentstemons planted last year.
We grow them afresh from cuttings every autumn,
planting them out in April. They are not quite hardy,
and a bad winter may destroy all the last year’s plants.
But if these can be saved they bloom in July, whereas
those planted in the spring of the year do not flower
till later. So we protect the older plants with fir-
boughs and generally succeed in saving them. Old
plants of Snapdragon are also now in flower. They
too are a little tender-in the open, although they
are safe in dry-walling with the roots out of the way
of frost and the crowns kept dry among the stones.

Much use is made of a dwarf kind of Lavender that
is also among the best of the July flowers The whole
size of the plant is about cne-third that of the ordinary
kind ; the flowers are darker in colour and the time

‘PNNOGETIAF WAINTHA TAC

CANTERBURY BELLS.

THE FLOWER BORDER IN JULY 67

of blooming a good month earlier. It has a different
use in gardening, as the flowers, being more crowded
and of a deeper tint, make a distinct colour effect.
Besides its border use, it is a plant for dry banks, tops
of rock-work and dry-walling.

CHAPTER VIII
THE FLOWER BORDER IN AUGUST

By the second week of August the large flower border
is coming to its best. The western grey end, with its
main planting of hoary and glaucous foliage—Yucca,
Sea-kale, Cinevaria maritima, Rue, Elymus, Santolina,
Stachys, &c.—now has Yucca flaccida in flower.
This neat, small Yucca, one of the varieties or near
relatives of filamentosa, is a grand plant for late summer.
A well-established clump throws up a quantity of
flower-spikes of that highly ornamental character
that makes the best of these fine plants so valuable.
White Everlasting Pea, planted about three feet
from the back, is trained on stout pea-sticks over the
space occupied earlier by the Delphiniums and the
Spireas. A little of it runs into a bush of_Golden
Privet. This Golden Privet is one of the few shrubs
that have a place in the flower border. Its clean,
cheerful, bright yellow gives a note of just the right
colour all through the summer. It has also a solidity.
of aspect that enhances by contrast the graceful lines
of the foliage of a clump of the great Japanese striped
grass Eulalia, which stands within a few feet of it,
seven feet high, shooting upright, but with the ends

of the leaves recurved.
68

ROSE THE GARLAND IN A SILVER HOLLY.

Lhe (AIR

¥.

ERYNGIUM OLIVERIANUN.

THE FLOWER BORDER IN AUGUST 69

Snapdragons, tall white and tall yellow, spire up
five feet high, following the earlier Foxgloves. At
the back is the pretty pink Dahlia Asia with sulphur
and pale pink Hollyhocks. A little further along,
and staked out so as to take the place of the clumps
of Verbascum Chaixii that were so fine at the end of
June, is Dahlia Mrs. Hawkins—palest yellow with a
slight pink flush. Forward is a group of a Pentstemon
of palest pink colouring named Spitzberg, that 1 had
from Messrs. Barr’s nursery, then a patch or two
of palest blue Spiderwort, and, quite to the front;
in any spaces there may be among the grey foliage,
Lobelia ‘‘ Cobalt Blue,’”’ the taller Lobelia tenuior, and
the pretty little blue-flowered Cape Daisy, Agathea
celestis.

The whole border is backed by a stone wall eleven
feet high, now fully clothed with shrubs and plants
that take their place in the colour scheme, either for
tint of bloom or mass of foliage. Thus the red-leaved
Claret Vine shows as background to the rich red region,
and Robinia hispida stands where its pink clusters
will tell rightly ; Choisya and Cistus cyprius where
their dark foliage and white bloom will be of -value ;
the greyish foliage and abundant pale lilac blossom
of Abutilon vitifolium in the grey and purple region,
and the pale green foliage of the deciduous Magnoha
conspicua showing as a background to the tender blue
of a charming pale Delphinium.

The shrubs and plants on the wall are not all there
because they are things rare and precious or absolutely
needing the shelter of the wall, though some of them

%

70 COLOUR SCHEMES

are glad of it; but because they give a background
that either harmonises in detail with what is in front
or will help to enrich or give general cohesion to the
picture. The front of the border has some important
‘foliage giving a distinctly blue effect ; prominent
among it Sea-kale. The flower-stems are cut hard
back in the earlier summer, and it is now in hand-
some fresh leaf. Further back is the fine blue foliage
of Lyme-grass (Elymus arenarius), a plant of our
sea-shores, but of much value for blue effects in the
garden.

Now is the time to begin to use our reserve of plants
in pots. Of these the most useful are the Hydrangeas.
They are dropped into any vacant spaces. ‘ore or
less in groups, in the two ends of the border where
there is grey foliage, their pale pink colouring agreeing
with these places. Their own leafage is a rather bright
green, but we get them so well bloomed that but few
leaves are seen, and we arrange as cleverly as we can
that the rest shall be more or less hidden by the sur-
rounding bluish foliage. I stand a few paces off,
directing the formation of the groups; considering
their shape in relation to the border as a whole. I say
to the gardener that I want a Hydrangea in such a
place, and tell him to find the nearest place where
it can be dropped in. Sometimes this dropping in,
for the pots have to be partly sunk, comes in the way
of some established plant. If it is a deep-rooted
perennial that takes three or four years to come to
its strength, like an Eryngium or a Dictamnus, of
course I avoid encroaching on its root-room. But if

AND SANTOLINA.

LYME-GRASS

TALL CAMPANULAS PYRAMIDALIS AND LACTIFLORA
IN A GREY BORDER.

THE FLOWER BORDER IN AUGUST 71

it is a thing that blooms the season after it is planted,
and of which I have plenty in reserve, such as an
Anthemis, a Tradescantia, or a Helenium, I sacrifice
a portion of the plant-group, knowing that it can
easily be replaced. But then by August many of the
plants have spread widely above and there is space
below. Lilium longiflorum in pots is used in the
same way, and for the most part in this blue end of
the border, though there are also some at the further,
purple end, and just a flash of their white beauty in
the middle region of strong reds.

In order to use both blue and purple in the flower
border, this cool, western, grey-foliaged end has the
blues, and the further, eastern end the purples. For
although I like to use colour as a general rule in har-
monies rather than contrasts, I prefer to avoid, except in
occasional details, a mixture of blue and purple. At
this end, therefore, there are flowers of pure blue
—Delphinium, Anchusa, Salvia, Blue Cape Daisy and
Lobelia, and it is only when the main mass of blue, of
Delphiniums and Anchusas, is over that even the
presence of the pale grey-blue of Campanula lactiflora
is made welcome. Near the front is another pale
grey-blue, that of Clematis davidiana, just showing a
few blooms, but not yet fully out.

Now, giving a pleasant rest and refreshment to the
eye after the blues and greys, is a well-shaped drift
of the pale sulphur African Marigold. It was meant
to be the dwarf variety, but, as it grows two and a half
feet high, it has been pulled down as it grew. Some
of it has been brought down some way over the edge

72 COLOUR SCHEMES

of the path, where it breaks the general front line
pleasantly and shows off its good soft colouring. We
grow only this pale colour and a good form of the
splendid orange. The intermediate one, the full
yellow African Marigold, has, to my eye, a raw quality
that I am glad to avoid, and I have other plants that
give the strong yellow colour better. Now at the
back are some plants of the single Hollyhock, Hibiscus
fictfolius, white and pale yellow, recalling, as we merge
into the stronger yellows, the colouring of the region
just left. They are partly intergrouped with that
excellent plant Rudbeckia Golden Glow, brilliant,
long-lasting, and capable of varied kinds of useful
treatment.

Now we come to a group of the perennial Sunflowers ;
a good form of the double Helianthus multiflorus in
front, and behind it the large single kind of the same
plant. By the side of these is a rather large group of
a garden form of H. orgyalis. This is one of the
perennial Sunflowers that are usually considered not
good enough for careful gardening. It grows very
tall, and bears a smallish bunch of yellow flowers at
the top. If this were all it could do, it would not be
in my flower border. But in front of it grows a patch
of the fine Tansy-like Achillea Eupatorium, and in
front of this again a wide-spreading group of Eryngium
oliverianum—beautiful all through July. When the
bloom of these is done the tall Sunflower is trained
down over them—this pulling down, as in the case of
so many plants, causing it to throw up flower-stalks
from the axils of every pair of leaves; so that in

THE FLOWER BORDER IN AUGUST 73

September the whole thing is a sheet of bloom. Thus
the plant that was hardly worth a place in the border
becomes, at its flowering time, one of the brightest
ornaments of the garden. Other plants that are in front
of the Sunflower, that have also passed out of bloom,
are the Scarlet Bee-balm (Monarda) and the very
useful alpine Groundsel (Senecio artemisiefolius).

Next we have an important group of a large-leaved
Canna, the handsomest foliage in the border; good
to see when the sun is behind and the light comes
through the leaves. Here also, at the back, is a patch
of Hollyhocks—one very dark, almost a claret-red,
and a fine, full red inclining to blood-colour. They
tower up together, and close to them are Dahlias, the
rich red Lady Ardilaun, deep scarlet Cochineal, bright
scarlet Fire King, and its variety Orange Fire King,
now the most brilliant piece of colouring in the garden.
These lead on to a gorgeous company—Phlox Coque-
licot, scarlet Pentstemon, orange African Marigold,
scarlet Gladiolus, and, to the front, a brilliant dwarf
scarlet Salvia; Helenium pumilum and scarlet and
orange dwarf Nasturtium. Here and there within
this mass of bright colouring there is a patch of the
fine deep yellow Coreopsis lanceolata, a plant of long-
enduring bloom, or rather of long succession, for, if
the dead flowers are removed, it will look bright for
a good three months.

As this gorgeous mass occupies a large space in
the flower border, I have thought well to subdue it
here and there with the cloudy masses of Gypsophila
paniculata Five-year-old plants of this form masses

74 COLOUR SCHEMES

of the pretty mist-like bloom four feet across and as
much high. This bold introduction of grey among
the colour masses has considerable pictorial value.
As the grey changes, towards the end of the
month, to a brownish tone, some of the tall Nas-
turtiums are allowed to grow over the bushes of
Gypsophila.

Now we have got beyond the middle of the length
of the border, and the colour changes again to the
clear and pale yellows, and then again to the grey
foliage as at the beginning. Where this occurs, at a
little more than two-thirds of the way along the border,
it is crossed by the path, leading, through an archway
in the wall closed by a door, to the garden beyond.
This cross-path is flanked by groups of Yuccas, slightly
raised, as will be seen in some of the illustrations. (See
Pp. 53, 112.) Yuccas all like a raised mound and some
good loam to grow in. I have them here as well as
at the two extreme ends of the border. No plants
make a handsomer full-stop to any definite garden
scheme. The grey treatment comprises the two
Yucca mounds to right and left of the cross-paths
the other grey plants are as before—Cineraria mari-
tima, Santolina, Stachys, Elymus and Rue—but at
this end, besides some plants with white, pink and
palest yellow colouring, the other flowers are not blues,
but purples, light and dark. Among these a very
useful thing is Ageratum ; not the dwarf Ageratum,
though this is good too in its place, but the ordinary
Ageratum mexicanum, a plant that grows about two
feet high. This is also the place for some of the earliest

‘VatOOK TA UA FSOLNTNFTIt POONA

“MOOHATIOH MNId AGNV THVAd
VAITIIHOF SXRULT SW IIHdDOSAKD SSKHOVLS ? SHAGCMOU AALO AHL

THE FLOWER BORDER 1N AUGUST 75

Michaelmas Daisies that will bloom in September,
such as Aster acvis and A. Shortit. At the back there
are Dahlias, white and pale yellow, with white and
sulphur Hollyhocks, and, in the middle spaces, pale
pink Gladiolus, double Saponaria officinalis, and pale ©
pink Pentstemon. At the back, also, there is a clump
of Globe Thistle (Echinops) and a grand growth of
Clematis Jackmanii, following in season of bloom,
and partly led over, a white Everlasting Pea, that
in the earlier summer was trained to conceal the
dying stems of the red-orange Lilies that bloomed in
June.

There is also a short length of double border specially
devoted to August, of the same character, though not
so fully developed, as what will be described in a
further chapter as the Grey Garden. Here, the space
being small, it has‘been given specially to the more
restricted season. The scheme of colouring has a
ground of grey foliage, with flowers of pink, white,
and light and dark purple.

Next the path is the silvery white of Stachys,
Cineraria maritima and Artemisia stelleriana, with
the grey foliage and faint purple of the second bloom
of Catmint. Then bushy masses of Lavender and
Gypsophila, and between them Lilium longiflorum,
Godetia Double Rose and white Snapdragons. Behind
and among these are groups of the clear white Achillea
The Pearl, and the round purple heads of Globe-thistle.
Here and there, pushing to the front, is a Silver Thistle
(Eryngium giganteum). At the back shoot up Pink

76 COLOUR SCHEMES

Hollyhocks, the kind being one of home growth known
as Pink Beauty. The deep green of a Fig-tree that
covers the upper part of the landing and outside stone
steps to a loft, is an excellent background to the tender
greys of these August borders. Unfortunately, the
main group of pink Hollyhock, that should have
stood up straight and tall and shown well against the
window and silvery-grey weather-boarding of the loft,
failed altogether last season ; in fact, all the Holly-
hocks were poor and stunted, so that an important
part of the intended effect was lost.

Of Lavender hedges there are several, of varying
ages, in different parts of the garden. Lavender
for cutting should be from plants not more than four
to five years old, but for pictorial effect the bushes
may be much older. When they are growing old it
is a good plan to plant white and purple Clematises
so that they can be trained freely through and over
them.

There are comparatively few shrubs that flower in
autumn, so that it is quite a pleasant surprise to come
upon a group of them all in bloom together. The
picture shows the satisfactory effect of a group of
Zisculus parviflora and Olearia Haastit. It would
have been all the better for some plants of the beau-
tiful blue-flowered Perowskya atriplicifolia and for
Caryopteris mastacanthus in front, but at the time of
planting I did not think of the Caryopteris and did not
know the Perowskya. (See p. 77.)

August is the month of China Asters. I find many

FOMTH HHAANAAFT F

JILSVVH FIYPTIO GNF VUOTHIAUKd SATAOSH

THE FLOWER BORDER IN AUGUST 77

people are shy of these capital plants, perhaps because
the mixtures, such as are commonly grown, contain
rather harsh and discordant colours; also perhaps
because a good many of the kinds, having been pur-
posely dwarfed in order to fit them for pot-culture
and bedding, are too stiff to look pretty in general
gardening. Such kinds will always have their uses,
but what is wanted now in the best gardening is
more freedom of habit. I have a little space that
I give entirely to China Asters. I have often had
the pleasure of showing it to some person who pro-
fessed a dislike to them, and with great satisfaction
have heard them say, with true admiration: “Oh!
but I had no idea that China Asters could be so
beautiful.’’

It is only a question of selection, for the kinds are
now so many and the colourings so various that there
are China Asters to suit all tastes and uses. My own
liking is for those of the pure violet-purple and lavender
colours, with whites; and to plants with these clear,
clean tints my Aster garden is restricted. In other
places I grow some of the tenderer pinks, a good blood-
red and a clear pale yellow ; but these are kept quite
away from the purples. The kinds chosen are within
the Giant Comet, Ostrich Plume and Victoria classes—
all plants with long-stalked bloom and a rather free
habit of growth. For some years I was much hindered
from getting the colours I wanted from the inaccurate
way in which they are described in seed-lists. Finally
I paid a visit to the trial-grounds of one of our premier
seed-houses, and saw all the kinds and the colourings

78 COLOUR SCHEMES

and made my own notes. I cannot but think that a
correct description of the colours, instead of a fanciful
one, would help both customer and seed-merchant.
As it is, the customer, in order to get the desired flowers,
has to learn a code. I have often observed, in com-
paring French and English seed-lists, that the French
do their best to describe colours accurately, but that
the English use some wording which does not describe
the colour, but appears to be intended as a compli+
mentary euphemism. Thus, if I want a Giant Comet
of that beautiful pale silvery lavender, perhaps the
loveliest colour of which a China Aster is capable, I
have to ask for ‘‘ azure blue.’’ If I want a full lilac,
I must order ‘‘ blue’’; if a full purple, it is ‘‘ dark
blue.” If I want a strong, rich violet-purple, I must
beware of asking for purple, for I shall get a terrible
magenta such as one year spoilt the whole colour
scheme of my Aster garden. It is not as if the right
colour-words were wanting, for the language is rich
in them—violet, lavender, lilac, mauve, purple:
these, with slight additions, will serve to describe
the whole of the colourings falsely called blue.
The word blue should not be used at all in con-
nection with these flowers. There are no blue China
Asters.

The diagram shows a simple arrangement for a
little garden of China Asters of the purple and white
colourings. The seed-list names are used in order
to identify the sorts recommended. A Lavender
hedge surrounds the whole ; the paths are edged with
Stachys lanata, Taking Messrs. Sutton’s list and

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PLAN OF A SMALL GARDEN OF CHINA ASTERS

80 COLOUR SCHEMES

translating into colour-words as usually understood,
the tints are:

Seed list name Actual colour
Azure-blue Tender pale lavender-lilac.
Blue Light purple.

Dark blue Rich dark purple.

I had hoped that Messrs. Sutton had in contempla-
tion a revision of some of these puzzling colour-names,
but have not, as yet, seen any such desirable alteration.

CHAPTER IX
BEDDING PLANTS

THIS is a conveniently comprehensive term for the
tender plants that are put out for the summer. To
these plants a small portion of my garden, well sheltered
within enclosing walls and yet open to full sunshine,
is devoted, so that the little place is in some kind of
beauty from the end of July to the last days of Sep-
tember. There has been so strong a revulsion in
gardén practice since the days when the bedding out
of tender plants in stiff and not very intelligent ways
absorbed the entire horticultural energy of owners of
gardens that many people have conceived a dislike to
the plants themselves. Itis a common thing for friends
to express surprise at seeing scarlet Geraniums, yellow
Calceolaria and blue Lobelia in my garden, forgetting
that it was not the fault of the plants that they were
misused or employed in dull or even stupid ways.
There are no better summer flowers than the single.
and double zonal Pelargoniums that we commonly call
Geraniums, and none so good for such uses as the filling
of tubs and vases; for not only do they enjoy full
sunlight, but they benefit by the extra warmth at the
root that they obtain by being raised in the warm air

above the ground level. There certainly are among
81 F

82 COLOUR SCHEMES

these good summer flowers, a few kinds of harsh,
unpleasant reds and pinks, but these are easily avoided,
and the range of good colouring, from purest scarlet,
through softer tones, to tints of salmon and tender
warm pink, is now so great that there is no difficulty
in obtaining any combination or sequence that may be
desired, such as the very simple one that is shown in
the plan and will presently be described.

The little garden is an odd-shaped piece of ground,
roughly triangular. The main clump is more than
thirty feet wide at one end, a width too great to treat
conveniently. It has therefore been arranged with a
kind: of elevated backbone, a few feet wide, raised less
than two feet above the level, with dry walling on each
side to retain the earth. As it approaches the narrow
end of the triangle it swings round symmetrically on
each side forward to the path. All this raised part is
treated quite differently to the rest of the garden.
There is no attempt at brilliant colouring, but rather
to have important masses of fine form in a quiet range
of greyish tinting that shall serve as a suitable back-
ground to the brighter effects. The planting is mainly
of Yuccas of both large and small kinds and of two
kinds of Euphorbia ; the bold and striking E. Wulfenii
with its handsome form of leaf-mass and immense
bloom, and the smaller E. Characias. Where the
walls come near the path there are hanging sheets of
the bluish grey foliage of Othonnopsis cheirifolia. As
will be seen by the plan, the raised mass is fairly wide
at the south-western end. Spaces next the path
are filled with flowers of pink and purple colouring

BEDDING PLANTS 83

such as Heliotrope, Ivy Geranium Mme. Crousse and
Verbena Miss Willmott. The star-shaped figures on
the plan show the Yuccas; the larger ones are Y.
gloriosa and Y. recurva, and the smaller, garden
varieties of Y. filamentosa. There is always a good
proportion of these Yuccas in bloom during the late
summer, so that, standing at the north-west corner,
the stately flower spikes have a fine effect rising above
the colour masses of the borders on the lower level.
These are in two main connected colour schemes—
in gradations of reds, and of whites and yellows re-
spectively. Inthe red portions the front is chiefly of
Geraniums ; Paul Crampel for the strongest red ; it is
a little softer and more pleasing to me than Raspail,
which we formerly used. My eye has had too much
tender tutoring to endure the popular Henry Jacoby—
a colour that, for all its violence, has a harsh dullness
that I find displeasing. Next to Paul Crampel we put
one of the softer reds such as Mrs. Bartleman, and this
leads to the fine salmon-coloured King of Denmark,
and then to the paler salmon pink of Mme. Lemoine, a
plant that has the additional advantage of a beautifully
zoned leaf. Some such arrangement is followed
throughout those portions of the garden where red
colouring prevails ; the plants for the back being three
varieties of red-bloomed Cannas, one of them with well-
coloured red foliage, and a larger growing kind with
great leaves so much like those of a Banana that,
having lost its original name, we know it as Canna Musa.
This has the leaves slightly red-tinted. With these
Cannas, arranged as shown in the plan, are thin drifts

THE GARDEN OF SUMMER FLOWERS

BEDDING PLANTS 85

of Gladiolus Brenchleyensis and others of near colouring,
among them the very fine and free Gladiolus Childsii
William Faulkner; also the best of the scarlet and
orange-scarlet Dahlias, both of the larger-flowered and
pompon kinds, scarlet Pentstemon, Alonsoa, Lobelia
cardinalis, and, behind the Geraniums, Salvia Pride of
Zurich. In several places among the reds comes a
drift of a fine garden form of the native Sedum Tele-
phium. The quiet grey-green of the plant turns to a
subdued chocolate-red, as the large, flat flower-head is
developed. The introduction of this undergrowth of
quieter related colouring greatly enhances the quality
of the livelier reds and helps to put the whole thing
together. One break of a white Lily (L. longiflorum)
comes with fine effect among the reds.

The yellow and white portions pass from the palest
of the Geraniums with a front planting of the useful,
but in the past much misused, Golden Feather Fever-
few, and a rather large quantity of a capital old garden
plant, that has of late been much neglected, the
variegated form of a native plant Mentha rotundifolia.
The Feverfew is allowed to flower, but the variegated
Mint has the flowering branches cut back so as to
keep it to a more convenient height. It is one of the
prettiest things as an underplanting to anything of
white or yellow colour, and specially charming among
the white Lilies (L. longiflorum) ; here and there it is
brightened with thin drifts of the pale canary-yellow
Calceolaria amplexicaulis. The plan shows the general
arrangement of the other white and yellow flowers ;
yellow-bloomed . Cannas both tall and short, Snap-

86 COLOUR SCHEMES

dragons white, lemon-white and yellow, and Primrose
African Marigold. It needs some care to obtain the
right colour of this Marigold. There are three distinct
colourings of this fine half-hardy annual—the well-
known deep orange, a middle yellow and the primrose.
Unless the primrose or sulphur colour is insisted on
seedsmen are apt to send the middle colour. I have
it always from Messrs. Barr and Sons, who send the
right colour without fail.

The little garden has a rather high wall to the south,
covered with climbing plants and shrubs treated as
wall plants. On the northern side an earth bank four
and a half feet high, dry-walled on both sides, has the
top planted with bushy things. At the western end a
fruiting Barberry is thickly overgrown with the large-
flowered white Jasmine; then come other shrubby
plants, with bush and- Rambling Roses and Scotch
Briars; the whole forming a flowery fence nearly as
high as the opposite wall and affording comforting
shelter. It is thickened by having a number of bushes
of Choisya in a narrow border on the south side that
have grown up to the height of the shrubs in the wall

top.

SOME OF THE EARLY ASTERS.

THE SEPTEMBER GARDEN.

CHAPTER X
THE FLOWER BORDERS IN SEPTEMBER

THE main flower border shows in September much the
same aspect asin August. But early in the month the

and show their intended effect. They form one of
the highest points in the border. No attempt is made
to keep all the back-row plants standing high ; on the
contrary, many that would be the tallest are pulled
down to do colour work of medium height.. The
effect is much more pictorial when the plants at the
back rise only here and there to a height of nine or ten
feet ; mounting gradually and by no means at equal
distances, but somewhat as the forms of greater altitude
rise in the ridge of a mountain range. The diagram
shows how it comes in the case of my own border in
September. (See p. 57.)

Rather near the front, the bushy masses of Gypso-
phila, which a month ago were silvery grey, have now
turned to a brownish colour. They are partly covered’
with trailing Nasturtiums, but the portions of brown
cloud that remain tone well with the rich reds that are
near them. In the back of this region dark claret and

87

88 COLOUR SCHEMES

blood-red Hollyhocks still show colour, and scarlet
Dahlias are a mass of gorgeous bloom. Their nearest
neighbours are tall flaming Tritomas, with, in front of
them, one of the dwarfer Tritomas that is crowded with
its orange-scarlet flowers of a rather softer tone. Then
come scarlet Gladiolus, a wide group of a splendid red
Pentstemon, and, to the front, an edging and partly
carpeting mass of the good, short-growing form of Salvia
splendens called Pride of Zurich.

After these strong reds comes a drift of the brilliant
orange African Marigold, one of the most telling
plants of the time of year. Coming to the yellows of
middle strength, there are some of the perennial Sun-
flowers, among them the one that seems to be a form of
Helianthus orgyalts, described in the last chapter. This
and some others are trained down to cover plants
now out of bloom. The fine double Rudbeckia called
Golden Glow is treated in the same way. Intergrouped
with it is a useful pale form of Helianthus letiflorus
that takes up the colour when the Rudbeckia is failing.
In the near end region of blue-grey foliage the bloom
of Clematis davidiana, also of a greyish blue, but of a
colour quality that is almost exclusively its own, tones
delightfully with its nearest neighbours of leaf and
bloom. About here some pots of Plumbago capensis
are dropped in; their wide-ranging branches, instead
of being stiffly tied, are trained over some bushy plants

zof leaden-blue-foliaged Rue. Near this, and partly
shooting up through some of the same setting, are the -
spikes of a beautiful Gladiolus of pale, cool pink colour,
the much-prized gift of an American garden-loving

GARDEN; LOWER END.

SEPTEMBER

THE

‘INA WIddN ° NAGUVD VAINWALATAS AHL

FLOWER BORDERS IN SEPTEMBER 89

friend. Tall white Snapdragons, five feet high, show
finely among the gracefully recurved leaves of the blue
Lyme-grass. Beyond is a group of Liliwm auratum,
and in the more distant front, pale sulphur African
Marigold, just now at its best.

The further end of the border also has grey foliage
associated with pink Hydrangeas, white and pink
Snapdragons, white Dahlias, purple Clematis, Lilium
auratum and Aster acris. Yucca flaccida is still in
beauty.

There is another range of double border for the
month of September alone. It passes down through
the middle of the kitchen garden and is approached by
an arch of Laburnum. It is backed on each side by a
Hornbeam hedge some five and a half feet high. This
border is mainly for the earlier Michaelmas Daisies ;
those that bloom in the first three weeks of the month.
Grey foliage in plenty is to the front Running in
between the groups is Artemisia stelleriana, the quite
hardy plant that so well imitates Cinevaria maritima ;
there are also Stachys and White Pink. Further back
among the flowers are drifts of the grey-blue Lyme-
grass, some grey bushes of Phlomis and a silvery-leaved
Willow, kept to a suitable size by careful pruning.

The scheme of colouring consists of this groundwork
of grey foliage, with white, lilac, purple and pale pink
flowers; and, breaking into this colouring in two or
three distinct places, flowers of pale yellow and yellowish
white with suitable accompanying leafage. There is
also, in quite another part of the garden, a later border

90 COLOUR SCHEMES

of other Michaelmas Daisies that will follow this in
time of blooming. But the September borders have a
very different appearance because of their flowers of
pink and yellow, colours which are absent in those of
the later season.

The yellow flowers are the pale sulphur African Mari-
gold and pale yellow and whitish-yellow tall Snap-
dragons, with bordering masses of variegated Coltsfoot,
and the Golden Feather Feverfew allowed to bloom.
The pink colourings are the wide-headed Sedum spec-
tabile, pink Japan Anemone and a few pale pink Gladioli.
The whites are Dahlias Constance and Henry Patrick,
Pyrethrum uliginosum, the charming perennial Aster
Colerette Blanche and a taller white or yellowish-white
Aster with rough stems and harsh-feeling foliage that
I know as A. umbellatus. Here also are white Japan
Anemones, white Snapdragons and white China Asters
of the large, long-stemmed, late-blooming kind that
were formerly known as Vick’s, but are now called.
Mammoth. Among the grey bordering plants are
groups of dwarf Ageratum, one of the best of the tender
plants of September and quite excellent with the
accompanying grey foliage. The grey bordering is not
merely an edging but a general front groundwork,
running here and there a yard deep into the border.

Begonias are at their best throughout the month of
September. Beds of Begonias alone never seem to me
quite satisfactory. Here there is no opportunity for
growing them in beds, but I have them in a bit of narrow
border that is backed by shrubs that is kept constantly

‘FOFITOL FASFOFIN TO ONILLAS WF NI SFINOODTE

EARLY ASTERS AND PYRETHRUM ULIGINOSUM.

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THE SEPTEMBER BORDER OF EARLY MICHAELMAS DAISIES.

FLOWER BORDERS IN SEPTEMBER 9i

enriched. A groundwork of the large-leaved form of
Megasea cordifolia is planted so as to surround variously
sized groups of Begonias—groups of from five to nine
plants. The setting of the more solid leaves gives the
Begonias a better appearance and makes their bright
bloom tell more vividly. They follow in this sequence
of colouring : yellow, white, palest pink, full pink, rose,
deep red, deep rose, salmon-rose, red-lead colour or
orange-scarlet, scarlet, red-lead and orange.

It is a matter of great regret that the best kind of
Dahlias for garden effect have lost favour with nursery-
men, so that it is now difficult, if not impossible, to
obtain from them the most desirable kinds. These are
a selection of those that were first called Cactus Dahlias,
much more free in form than the old show Dahlias;
but with the petals not attenuated and pointed as they
are in the modern Cactus kinds. The greater number of
these, pretty though their individual blooms are on the
show-table, are but of little use in the garden, whereas
the old sorts, King of the Cactus, Cochineal, Lady
Ardilaun, Fire King and Orange Fire King, are among
the most gorgeous of our September flowers. In the
same class are: Mrs. Hawkins, palest lemon flushed
with pink ; William Pearse, bright yellow; Lady M.
Marsham, bright copper; J. W. Standling, orange
(the two last about four feet high) ; and the two good
whites, Constance and Henry Patrick. Of these, all
in my opinion indispensable kinds, only Fire King,
as far as I am aware, survives in contemporary trade
lists.

CHAPTER XI
WOOD AND SHRUBBERY EDGES

OPpPpoRTUNITIES for good gardening are so often over-
looked that it may be well to draw attention to some
of those that are most commonly neglected.

When woodland joins garden ground there is too
often a sudden jolt; the wood ends with a hard line,
sometimes with a path along it, accentuating the defect.
When the wood is of Scotch Fir of some age there is a
monotonous emptiness of naked trunk and bare ground.
In wild moorland this is characteristic and has its own
beauty ; it may even pleasantly accompany the garden
when there is only a view into it here and there; but
when the path passes along, furlong after furlong, with
no attempt to bring the wood into harmony with the
garden, then the monotony becomes oppressive and
the sudden jolt is unpleasantly perceived. There is
the well-stocked garden and there is the hollow wood
with no cohesion between the two—no sort of effort to
make them join hands.

It would have been better if from the first the garden
had not been brought quite so close to the wood, then
the space between, anything from twenty-five to forty
feet, might have been planted so as to bring them into
unison. In such a case the path would go, not next

92

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WOOD AND SHRUBBERY EDGES 93

the trees, but along the middle of the neutral ground,
and would be so planted as to belong equally to garden
and wood. The trees would then take their place as
the bounding and sheltering feature. It is better to
plan it like this at first than to gain the space by felling
the outer trees, because the trees at the natural wood
edge are better furnished with side branches. Such
ground on the shady side of the Scotch Firs would be
‘tthe best possible site for a Rhododendron walk, and
for Azaleas and Kalmias, kept distinct from the Rhodo-
dendrons. Then the Scotch Fir indicates the presence
of a light peaty soil; the very thing for that excellent
but much-neglected undershrub Gaultheria Shalion.
This is one of the few things that will grow actually
under the Firs, not perhaps in the densest part of an
old wood, but anywhere about its edges, or where any
light comes in at a clearing or along a cart-way. When
once established it spreads with a steady abundance
of increase, creeping underground and _ gradually
clothing more and more of the floor of the wood. The
flower and fruit have already been shown at pp. 20, 21.

The Great Wood-rush (Luzula sylvatica) is also a
capital plant for filling bare spaces in wood edges. It
does not look like a Rush, but like a broad-leaved
Grass. The flowers come in May; loose, spreading
clusters of brownish bloom that rise a good two feet
above the tufts of handsome foliage.

Rhododendrons are usually planted much too close
together. This is a great mistake; they should not be
nearer than eight to ten feet, or even further, apart,
especially in the case of ponticum and some of the

94 COLOUR SCHEMES

larger-growing kinds. It is a common practice to fill

up the edges of their prepared places with a collection
of Heaths. The soil will no doubt suit Heaths, but I

never do it or recommend it because I feel that the
right place for Heaths is quite open ground, and there
are other plants that I think look better with the young
Rhododendrons. For my own liking the best of these

are hardy Ferns—Male Fern, Lady Fern and Dilated

Shield Fern, with groups of Lilies: L. longiflorum and

the lovely rosy L. rubellum towards the front, and

L. auratum further back. Some ot the Andromedas,
especially Catesbei and axillaris of the Leucothoé

section, are capital plants for this use. Besides Lilies,

a few other flowering plants suitable for the Rhodo-

dendron walk are: white Foxgloves, white Columbine;

white Epilobium angustifolium, Trillium, Epimedium

pinnatum, Uvularia grandiflora, Dentaria diphylla and

Gentiana asclepiadea. In the same region, and also partly

as edgings to the Rhododendron clumps, suitable small

bushes are Rhododendron myrtifolium, the Alpenrose

(R. ferruginium) and the sweet-leaved Ledum palustre.

Later it was found that these wood-path edges

offered such suitable places for the late-blooming Willow

Gentian (G. asclepiadea), that it was still more largely

planted. It delights in a cool place in shade or half-

shade, and when in mid-September so many flowers

are over and garden plants in general are showing
fatigue and exhaustion, it is a pleasure to come upon
the graceful arching sprays, their upper portions set
with pairs of long blue flowers, looking fresh and
bright and full of vigour.

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WOOD AND SHRUBBERY EDGES — 95

When the garden comes on the sunny side of the
wood the planting would be quite different. Here is
the place for Cistuses ; for the bolder groups the best
are C. laurifolius and C. cyprius, backed by plantings
of Tamarisk, Arbutus and White Broom, with here and
there a free-growing Rose of the wilder sort, such as
the type polyantha and Brunonis. If the fir-boughs
come down within reach, the wild Clematis (C. Vitalba)
can be led into them ; it will soon ramble up the tree,
filling it with its pretty foliage and abundance of August
bloom.

The Cistuses delight in a groundwork of Heath; the
wild Calluna looks as well as any, but if cultivated
kinds are used they should be in good quantities of one
sort at a time, and never as hard edgings, but as free
carpeting masses.

For the edges of other kinds of woodland the free
Roses are always beautiful ; where a Holly comes to
the front, a Rose such as Dundee Rambler or the Gar-
land will grow up it, supported by its outer branches
in the most delightful way. The wild Clematis is in
place here too, also the shade-loving plants already
named. In deciduous woodland there is probably
some undergrowth of Hazel, or of Bramble and wild
Honeysuckle. White Foxgloves should be planted
at the edge and a little way back, Daffodils for the
time when the leaves are not yet there, and Lily of the
Valley, whose charming bloom and brilliant foliage
come with the young leaves of May.

Where the wood comes nearest the house with only
Jawn between, it is well to have a grouping of hardy

96 COLOUR SCHEMES

Ferns and Lilies; where it is giving place to garden
ground and there is a shrubby background, the smaller
Polygonums, such as P. compactum, are in place.

The spaces more or less wide between large shrubs
and turf are full of opportunities for ingenious treat-
ment; they are just the places most often neglected,
or at any rate not well enough considered. I have
always taken delight in working out satisfactory ways
of treating them. It seems desirable to have, next the

poder ame
grass, some foliage of rather_distinct important
‘size or form. For this use the Megaseas are invaluable,
the one most generally useful being the large variety
of, M. cordifolia. Funkias are also beautiful, but as
their leaves come late and go with the first frosts or
even earlier, whereas the Megaseas persist the whole
year round, the latter are the most generally desir-
able. These shrub-edge spaces occur for the most
part in bays, giving an inducement to invent a separate
treatment for each bay.

The two illustrations with the front planting of
Funkia Sieboldi are two adjoining bays; one showing
the charming shrubby Aster Olearta Gunni in the
middle of June, the other some groups of Lilium longi-
florum, planted in November of the year before, and
in bloom in early August.

Sometimes a single plant of Gypsophila paniculata
will fill the whole of one of the recesses or bays between
the larger shrubs; Hydrangea paniculata is another
good filling plant, and the hardy Fuchsias; both of
these, though really woody shrubs, being cut down
every winter and treated as herbaceous plants,

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STOBELA PURPUREA, A WALL PLANT FOR A
SUNNY PLACE,

WOOD AND SHRUBBERY EDGES 97

There is a small-growing perennial Aster, A. corym-
bosus, from a foot to eighteen inches high, that seems
to enjoy close association with other plants and is easy
to grow anywhere. I find it, in conjunction with
Megasea, one of the most useful of these filling plants
for edge spaces that just want some pretty trimming
but are not wide enough for anything larger. The
same group was photographed two years running.
The first year the bloom was a little thicker below, but
the second I thought it still better when it had partly
rambled up into the lower branches of the Weigela
that stood behind it. The little thin starry flower is
white and is borne in branching heads; the leaves are
lance-shaped and sharply pointed; but when the plant
is examined in the hand its most distinct character is
the small fine wire-like stem, smooth and nearly black,
that branches about in an angular way of its own.

These are only a very few examples of what may
also be done in a number of other ways, but if they
serve to draw attention to those generally neglected
shrub edges, it may be to the benefit of many gardens.
Where there is room for a good group of plants they
should be of bold and solid habit, such as Tree Lupine,
Peony, Acanthus, Spive@a Aruncus, the larger hardy
Ferns, Rubus nutkanus, or plants of some such size and
character. The low-growing Bambusa tessellata is a
capital shrub-edge plant.

CHAPTER XII
GARDENS OF SPECIAL COLOURING

IT is extremely interesting to work out gardens in
which some special colouring predominates, and to
those who, by natural endowment or careful eye-
cultivation, possess or have acquired what artists
understand by an eyé for colour, it opens out a whole
new range of garden delights.

Arrangements of this kind are sometimes attempted,
for occasionally I hear of a garden for blue plants, or
a white garden, but I think such ideas are but rarely
worked out with the best aims. I have in mind a
whole series of gardens of restricted colouring, though
I have not, alas, either room or means enough to
work them out for myself, and have to be satisfied
with an all-too-short length of double border for a
grey scheme. But besides my small grey garden I
badly want others, and especially a gold garden, a
blue garden and a green garden; though the number
of these desires might easily be multiplied.

It is a curious thing that people will sometimes
spoil some garden project for the sake of a word. For
instance, a blue garden, for beauty’s sake, may be
hungering for a group of white Lilies, or for something
of palest lemon-yellow, but it is not allowed to have it

98

THE GREY BORDERS: GYPSOPHILA, EFCHINOPS, PINK
HOLLYHOCK, HELIOTROPE AND SILVER THISTLE.

LMAS DAISIES,

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GARDENS OF SPECIAL COLOURING 99

because it is called the blue garden, and there must
be no flowers in it but blue flowers. I can see no sense
in this; it seems to me like fetters foolishly self-
imposed. Surely the business of the blue garden is to
be beautiful as well as to be blue. My own idea is
that it should be beautiful first, and then just as blue

as may be consistent with its best_ possible beauty.
Moreover, any experienced colourist knows that the
blues will be more telling—more purely blue—by the
juxtaposition of rightly placed complementary | colour.
How it may be done is shown in the plan, for, as I
cannot have these gardens myself, it will be some
consolation to suggest to those who may be in sympathy
with my views, how they may be made.

The Grey garden is so called because most of its
plants have grey foliage, and all the carpeting and
bordering plants are grey or whitish. The flowers
are white, lilac, purple and pink. It is a garden
mostly for August, because August is the time when
the greater number of suitable plants are in bloom;
but a Grey garden could also be made for September,
or even October, because of the number of Michaelmas
Daisies that can be brought into use.

A plan is given of a connected series of gardens of
special colouring. For the sake of clearness they are
shown in as simple a form as possible, but the same
colour scheme could be adapted to others of more
important design and larger extent.

The Gold garden is chosen for the middle, partly
because it contains the greater number of permanent

100 COLOUR SCHEMES

shrubs and is bright and cheerful all the year round,.
and partly because it is the best preparation, according
to natural colour law, for the enjoyment of the com-
partments on either side. It is supposed that the
house is a little way away to the north, with such
a garden scheme close to it as may best suit its style
and calibre. Then I would have a plantation of
shrubs and trees. The shade and solidity of this
would rest and refresh the eye and mind, making
them the more ready to enjoy the colour garden.
Suddenly entering the Gold garden, even on the dullest
day, will be like coming into sunshine. Through the
shrub-wood there is also a path to right and left
parallel to the long axis of the colour garden, with paths
turning south at its two ends, joining the ends of the
colour-garden paths. This has been taken into account
in arranging the sequence of the compartments.

The hedges that back the borders and form the
partitions are for the most part of Yew, grown and
clipped to a height of seven feet. But in the case of
the Gold garden, where the form is larger and more
free than in the others, there is no definite hedge, but
a planting of unclipped larger gold Hollies, and the
beautiful golden Plane, so cut back and regulated
as to keep within the desired bounds. This absence
of a stiff hedge gives more freedom of aspect and a
better cohesion with the shrub-wood.

In the case of the Grey garden the hedge is of Tama-
tisk (Tamarix gallica), whose feathery grey-green is
in delightful harmony with the other foliage greys.
It will be seen on the plan that where this joins the

7rARDEN.

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Tr

SEPTEMBER ¢

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THE GREY BORDER: PINK HOLLYHOCK, ECHINOPS,
ACHILLEA PEARL, GYPSOPHILA, STACH YS, tie;

GARDENS OF SPECIAL COLOURING io1

Gold garden the hedge is double, for it must be of
gold Holly on one side and of Tamarisk on the other.
At the entrances and partition where the path passes,
the hedge shrubs are allowed to grow higher, and are
eventually trained to form arches over the path. -

In the Gold and Green gardens the shrubs, which
form the chief part of the planting, are shown as they
will be after some years’ growth. It is best to have
them so from the first. If, in order to fill the space’
at once, several are planted where one only should
eventually stand, the extra ones being removed later,
the one left probably does not stand quite right. I
strongly counsel the placing of them singly at first,
and that until they have grown, the space should be
filled with temporary plants. Of these, in the Gold
garden, the most useful will be Cénothera lamayrckiana,
‘Verbascum olympicum and V. phlomoides, with more
Spanish Broom than the plan shows till the gold
Hollies are grown; and yellow-flowered annuals, such
as the several kinds of Chrysanthemum coronarium,
both single and double, and Coreopsis Drummondt ;
also a larger quantity of African Marigolds, the pale
primrose and the lemon-coloured. The fine tall yellow
Snapdragons will also be invaluable. Flowers of a
deep orange colour, such as the orange African Marigold,
so excellent for their own use, are here out of place,
only those of pale and middle yellow being suitable.

In such a garden it will be best to have, next the
path, either a whole edging of dwarf, gold-variegated
Box-bushes about eighteen inches to two feet high,
or a mixed planting of these and small bushes of

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108 COLOUR SCHEMES

gold-variegated Euonymus clipped down to not much .
over two feet. The edge next the path would be
kept trimmed to a line.

' The strength of colour and degree of variation are
so great that it is well worth going to a nursery to
pick out all these gold-variegated plants. It is not
enough to tell the gardener to get them. There
should be fervour on the part of the garden’s owner
such as will take him on a gold-plant pilgrimage to all
good nurseries within reach, or even to some rather
out of reach. No good gardening comes of not
taking pains. All ; good gardening is the reward of
well-directed and strongly sustained effort. _

Where, in the Gold garden, the paths meet and
swing round in a circle, there may be some accentua-
ting ornament—a sundial, a stone vase for flowers,
or a tank for a yellow Water-lily. If a sundial, and
there should be some incised lettering, do not have
the letters gilt because it is the Gold garden; the
colour and texture of gilding are quite out of place.
If there is a tank, do not have goldfish; their colour
is quite wrong. Never hurt the garden for the sake
of the tempting word.

The word “‘ gold ”’ in itself is, of course, an absurdity ;
no growing leaf or flower has the least resemblance
to the colour of gold. But the word may be used
because it has passed into the language with a com-
monly accepted meaning.

I have always felt a certain hesitation in using the
free-growing perennial Sunflowers. For one thing, the
kinds with the running roots are difficult to keep in

Hiden & fe

A DETAIL OF THE GREY SEPTEMBER GARDEN.
PERENNIAL ASTERS AND WHITE CHINA ASTER
MAMMOTH IN FRONT.

ERYNGIUM AND LILIUM CANDIDUM WITH YUCCAS.

GARDENS OF SPECIAL COLOURING 109

check, and their yearly transplantation among other
established perennials is likely to cause disturbance
and injury to their neighbours. Then, in so many
neglected gardens they have been let run wild, sur-
viving when other plants have been choked, that,
half unconsciously, one has come to hold them cheap
and unworthy of the best use. I take it that my
own impression is not mine alone, for often when I
have been desired to do planting-plans for flower
borders, I have been asked not to put in any of these
Sunflowers, because “‘ they are so common.”

But nothing is “common” in the sense of base or _
unworthy if it is rightly used, and it seems to me
that this Gold garden is just the place where these
bright autumn flowers may be employed to great
advantage. I have therefore shown Helianthus rigidus
and its tall-growing variety Miss Mellish, although
the colour of both is quite the deepest I should care to
advise ; the paler yellow of H. letiflorus being better,
especially the capital pale form of this Sunflower, and
of one that I know as a variety of H. orgyalis, described
at p. 72.

The golden Planes, where the path comes in from
the north, are of course deciduous, and it might be
well to have gold Hollies again at the back of these,
or gold Yews, to help the winter effect.

In some places in the plan the word “ gold’’ has
been omitted, but the yellow-leaved or yellow-varie-
gated form of the shrub is always intended. There is
a graceful cut-leaved Golden Elder that is desirable,
as well as the common one.

110 COLOUR SCHEMES

Perhaps the Grey garden is seen at its best by
reaching it through the orange borders. Here the
eye becomes filled and saturated with the strong red
and yellow colouring. D on the plan stands for
Dahlia; the other plant names are written in full.
This filling with the strong, rich colouring has the
natural effect of making the eye eagerly desirous
for the complementary colour, so that, standing by
the inner Yew arch and suddenly turning to look into
the Grey garden, the effect is surprisingly—quite
astonishingly—luminous and refeshing. One never
knew before how vividly bright Ageratum could be,
or Lavender or Nepeta; even the grey-purple of
Echinops appears to have more positive colour than
one’s expectation would assign to it. The purple
of the Clematises of the Jackmanii class becomes
piercingly brilliant, while the grey and glaucous
foliage looks strangely cool and clear.

The plan shows the disposition of the plants, with
grey-white edging of Cuineraria maritima, Stachys
and Santolina. There are groups of Lavender with
large-flowered Clematises (C in the plan) placed so
that they may be trained close to them and partly
over them. There are the monumental forms of the
taller Yuccas, Y. gloriosa and its variety recurva
towards the far angles, and, nearer the front (marked
Yucca in plan), the free-blooming Yucca filamen-
tosa of smaller size. The flower-colouring is of purple,
pink and white. Besides the Yuccas, the other white
flowers are Lilium longiflorum and Lilium candidum
(L C on plan), the clear white Achillea The Pearl

POLIAGE,

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AND

YUCCAS

GARDENS OF SPECIAL COLOURING 111

and the grey-white clouds of Gypsophila paniculata.
The pink flowers are Sutton’s Godetia Double Rose,
sown in place early in May, the beautiful clear pink
Hollyhock Pink Beauty and the pale pink Double
Soapwort. Clematis and white Everlasting Pea are
planted so that they can be trained to cover the
Gypsophila when its bloom is done and the seed-pods
are turning brown. As soon as it loses its grey colour-
ing the flowering tops are cut off, and the Pea and
Clematis, already brought near, are trained over.
When the Gypsophila is making its strong growth in
May, the shoots are regulated and supported by some
stiff branching spray that is stuck among it. A little
later this is quite hidden, but it remains as a firm
substructure when the top of the Gypsophila is cut
back and the other plants are brought over.

Elymus is the blue-green Lyme-grass, a garden form
of the handsome blue-lgaved grass that grows on the
seaward edges of many of our sea-shore sandhills. The
Soapwort next to it is the double form of Saponaria
officinalis, found wild in many places.

Of Ageratum two kinds are used—a_ brightly
coloured one of the dwarf kinds for places near the
front, where it tells as a close mass of colour, and the
tall A. mexicanum for filling up further back in the
border, where it shows as a diffuse purple cloud.
The Nepeta is the good garden Catmint (N. Mussint).
Its normal flowering-time is June, but it is cut half
back, removing the first bloom, by the middle of the
month, when it at once makes new flowering shoots.

Now, after the grey plants, the Gold garden looks

112 COLOUR SCHEMES

extremely bright and sunny. A few minutes suffice
to fill the eye with the yellow influence, and then we
pass to the Blue garden, where there is another delight-
ful shock of eye-pleasure. The brilliancy and purity
of colour are almost incredible. Surely no blue
flowers were ever so blue before! That is the impres-
sion received. For one thing, all the blue flowers
used, with the exception of Eryngium and Clematis
davidiana, are quite pure blues; these two are grey-
blues. There are no purple-blues, such as the bluest
of the Campanulas and the perennial Lupines; they
would not be admissible. With the blues are a few
white and palest yellow flowers; the foam-white
Clematis recta, a delightful foil to Delphinium Bella-
donna; white perennial Lupine with an almond-like
softness of white; Spir@a Aruncus, another foam-
coloured flower. Then milk-white Tree Lupine, in
its carefully decreed place near the bluish foliage of
Rue and Yucca. Then there is the tender citron of
Lupine Somerset and the full canary of the tall yellow
Snapdragon, the diffused pale yellow of the soft plumy
Thalictrum and the strong canary of Lilium szovitzi-
anum, with white Everlasting Pea and white Hollyhock
at the back. White-striped Maize grows up to cover
the space left empty by the Delphiniums when their
bloom is over, and pots of Plumbago capense are
dropped in to fill empty spaces. One group of this
is trained over the bluish-leaved Clematis recta, which
goes out of flower with the third week of July.

Yuccas, both of the large and small kinds, are also
used in the Blue garden, and white Lilies, candudum

GARDENS OF SPECIAL COLOURING 113

and longiflorum. There is foliage both of glaucous
and of bright green colour, besides an occasional patch
of the silvery Evyngium giganteum. At the front edge
are the two best Funkias, F. grandiflora, with leaves
of bright yellow-green, and F. Sieboldi, whose leaves
are glaucous. The variegated Coltsfoot is a valuable
edge-plant where the yellowish white of its bold
parti-colouring is in place, and I find good use for the
variegated form of the handsome Grass Glyceria or
Poa aquatica. Though this is a plant whose proper
place is in wet ground, it will accommodate itself
to the flower border, but it is well to keep it on the
side away from the sun. It harmonises well in colour
with the Coltsfoot; as a garden plant it is of the
same class as the old Ribbon Grass, but is very much
better. It is a good plan to replant it late in spring
in order to give it a check; -if this is not done it has
a rather worn-out appearance before the end of the
summer ; but if it is replanted or divided late in April
it stands well throughout the season. The great
white-striped Japanese grass, Eulalia japonica striata
(E U on the plan), is planted behind the Delphiniums at
the angles, and groups well with the Maize just in front.

From the Blue garden, passing eastward, we come
to the Green garden. Shrubs of bright and deep
green colouring and polished leaf-surface predominate.
Here are green Aucubas and Skimmias, with Ruscus
vacemosus, the beautiful Alexandrian or Victory Laurel,
and more polished foliage of Acanthus, Funkia, Asarum,
Lilium candidum and longiflorum, and Iris fetidissima,

Then feathery masses of paler green, Male Fern and
H

114 COLOUR SCHEMES

Lady Fern and Myrrhis odorata, the handsome fern-
like Sweet Cicely of old English gardens. In the
angles are again Eulalias, but these are the variety
zebryina with the leaves barred across with yellow.

In the Green garden the flowers are fewer and nearly
all white—Campanulas macrantha alba and persici-
folia, Lilies, Tulips, Foxgloves, Snapdragons, Peonies,
Hellebores—giving just a little bloom for each season
to accompany the general scheme of polished and
fern-like foliage. A little bloom of palest: yellow
shows in the front in May and June, with the flowers
of Uvularia and Epimedium. But the Green garden,
for proper development, should be on a much larger
scale.

‘ASQOH £0 ACIS HLAOS NO ANIA AdFXD AGUYFH

HARDY GRAPE VINE ON HOUSE WALL.

CHAPTER XIII
CLIMBING PLANTS

WHEN ‘one sees climbing plants or any of the shrubs
that are so often used as climbers, planted in the usual
way on a house or wall, about four feet apart and with
no attempt at arrangement, it gives one that feeling
of regret for opportunities lost or misused which is the
sentiment most often aroused in the mind of the
garden critic in the great number of pleasure-grounds
that are planted without thought or discernment.
Not infrequently in passing along a country road, with
eye alert to note the beauties that are so often presented
by little wayside cottage gardens, something is seen
that may well serve as a lesson in better planting..
The lesson is generally one that teaches greater sim-
plicity—the doing of one thing at atime ; the avoidance
of overmuch detail. One such cottage has under the
parlour window an old bush of Pyrus japonica. It had
been kept well spurred back and must have been a
mass of gorgeous bloom in early spring. The rest of
the cottage was embowered in an old Grape Vine,
perhaps of all wall plants the most beautiful, and, I
always think, the most harmonious with cottages or
small houses of the cottage class. It would seem to
be least in place on the walls of houses of classical type ;
115

116 COLOUR SCHEMES

indeed, such houses are often better without any wall-
plants. Still, there are occasions where the noble
polished foliage of Magnolia comes admirably on their
larger spaces,.and the clear-cut refinement of Myrtle
on their lesser areas of wall-surface.

It is, like all other matters of garden planning, a
question of knowledge and good taste. The kind of
wall or house and its neighbouring forms are taken
into account and a careful choice is made of the most
suitable plants. For my own part I like to give a house,
whatever its size or style, some dominant note in wall-
planting. In my own home, which is a house of the
large cottage class, the prevailing wall-growths are
Vines and Figs in the south and west, and in a shady
northward facing court between two projecting wings,
Clematis montana on the two cooler sides, and again
a Vine upon the other. At one angle on the warmer
side of the house, where the height to the eaves is not
great, China Roses have been trained up, and Rose-
mary, which clothes the whole foot of the wall, is here
encouraged to rise with them. The colour of the China
Rose bloom and the dusky green of the Rosemary are
always to me one of the most charming combinations.
In remembrance of the cottage example lately quoted
there 1s Pyrus japonica under the long sitting-room
window. I remember another cottage that had a porch
. covered with the golden balls of Kerria japonica, and
China Roses reaching up the greater part of the low
walls of half timber and plastering; the pink Roses
seeming to ask one which of them were the loveliest
in colour ; whether it was those that came against the

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CLIMBING PLANTS 1t7

silver-grey of the old oak or those that rested on the
warm-white plaster. It should be remembered that
of all Roses the pink China is the one that is more
constantly in bloom than any other, for its first flowers
are perfected before the end of May, and in sheltered
places the later ones last till Christmas.

The Clematis montana in the court riots over the
wall facing east and up over the edge of the roof. At
least it appears to riot, but is really trained and regu-
lated ; the training favouring its natural way of throw-
ing down streamers and garlands of its long bloom-
laden cordage. At one point it runs through and over
a Guelder Rose that is its only wallcompanion. Then
it turns to the left and is trained in garlands along a
moulded oak beam that forms the base of a timbered
wall with plastered panels.

But this is only one way of using this lovely climbing
plant. Placed at the foot of any ragged tree—old
worn-out Apple or branching Thorn—or a rough brake
of Bramble and other wild bushes, it will soon fill or
cover it with its graceful growth and bounteous bloom.
It will rush up a tall Holly or clothe an old hedgerow
where thorns have run up and become thin and gappy,
or cover any unsightly sheds or any kind of outbuilding.
All Clematises prefer a chalky soil, but montana does
not insist on this, and in my pictures they are growing
in sandy ground. In the end of May it comes into
bloom, and is at its best in the early days of June.
When the flowers are going over and the white petals
show that slightly shrivelled surface that comes before
they fall, they give off a sweet scent like vanilla. This

118 COLOUR SCHEMES

cannot always be smelt from the actual flowers, but is
carried by the air blowing over the flowering mass ; it
is a thing that is often a puzzle to owners of gardens
some time in the second week of June.

Another of these Clematises, which, like the montana
of gardens, is very near the wild species and is good for
all the same purposes, is C. Flammula, blooming in
September. Very slightly trained it takes the form of
flowery clouds. The illustrations show it used in
various ways, on a cottage, on an oak-paled fence and
on a wall combined with the feathery foliage of Spirea
Lindleyana. I do not think there is any incident in
my garden that has been more favourably noticed than
the happy growth of these two plants together. The
wall faces north a little west, and every year it is a
delight to see not only the beauty of associated form,
but the loveliness of the colouring; for the Clematis
bloom has the warm white of foam and the Spirza has
leaves of the rather pale green of Lady Fern, besides
a graceful fern-like form and a slight twist or turn
also of a fern-like character. But this Clematis has
many other uses, for bowers, arches and pergolas, as
well as for many varied aspects of wild gardening.

A shrub for wall use that is much neglected, though
of the highest beauty, is Abutilon witifolium. In our
northern and midland counties it may not be hardy,
but it does well anywhere south of London. The
flowers, each two and a half inches across, are borne in
large, loose clusters, their tender lavender colour
harmonising perfectly with the greyish, downy foliage.

There is no lovelier or purer blue than that of the

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SIWWEET VERBENA,

CLIMBING PLANTS 1i9

newly opened Ipomea rubro-cerulea, popularly known
as Heavenly Blue and well deserving the name. It
must be raised in heat early in the year and be put
out in June against a warm wall. Here it isin a narrow
border at the foot of a wall facing south-west, where,
by the aid of a few short pea-sticks, it climbs into the
lower branches of a Vine. The Vine is one of the
Chasselas kind, with leaves of a rather pale green,
almost yellowish-green colouring that makes the best
possible foil to the pure blue of the Ipomea. To
my eye it is the most enjoyable colour-feast of the
year. Solanum crispum, with purple flowers in goodly
bunches, is one of the best of wall shrubs.

Another of the tender plants that is beautiful for
walls and for free rambling over other wall-growths
is Solanum jasminoides. Its white clusters come into
bloom in middle summer and persist till latest autumn.
In two gardens near me it is of singular beauty ; in the
one case on the sunny wall of a sheltered court where
it covers a considerable space, in the other against a
high south retaining-wall where, from the terrace above,
the flowers are seen against the misty woodland of
the middle distance and the pure grey-blue of the far-
away hills. Turning round on the very same spot,
there is the remarkable growth of the Sweet Verbena,
that owes its luxuriance to its roots and main shoots
being under shelter. There must be unending oppor-
tunities, where there are verandahs, of having just
such bowers of sweetness to brush against in passing
and to waft scented air to the windows of the roo ns
above.

120 COLOUR SCHEMES

These notes can only touch upon the more careful
use of a few of the many climbing plants and trailing
shrubs. One of the many garden possessions that I
ardently desire and can never have is a bit of rocky
hill-side; a place partly of sheer scarp and partly of
tumbled and outcropping rock-mass, for the best use
of these plants. There would be the place for the
yellow winter Jasmine, for the Honeysuckles both
bushy and rambling, for the trailing Clematises lately
described and for the native C. Vitalba, beautiful both
in flower and fruit ; for shrubs like Forsythia suspensa
and Desmodium penduliflorum, that like to root high
and then throw down cascades of bloom, and for the
wichuraiana Roses, also for Gourds and wild Vines.
There should be a good quarter of a mile of it so that
one might plant at perfect ease, one thing at a time
or one or two in combination, in just such sized and
shaped groups as would make the most delightful
pictures, and in just the association that would show
the best assortment.

I have seen long stretches of bare chalky banks for
year after year with nothing done to dispel their bald
monotony, feeling inward regret at the wasted oppor-
tunity ; thinking how beautiful they might be made
with a planting of two common things, Clematis Vitalba
and Red Spur Valerian. But such examples are with-
out end.

CHAPTER XIV
GROUPINGS OF PLANTS IN POTS

IT is a common thing in Italian gardens to see a quantity
of plants in pots standing in various parts of the
garden, generally in connection with paved terraces
and steps. This is in addition to the larger pot plants
—Oranges, Lemons, Oleanders, &c.—that, in their
immense and often richly decorated earthenware
receptacles, form an important part of the garden
design. In our climate we cannot have these unless
there is an Orangery or some such spacious place free
from frost for housing them in winter. But good
groupings of smaller plants in pots is a form of ornament
that might be made more use of in our own gardens,
especially where there are paved spaces near a house
or in connection with a tank or fountain, so that there
is convenient access to means of daily watering. I
have such a space in a cool court nearly square in shape.
A middle circle is paved, and all next the house is paved,
on a level of one shallow step higher. It is on the sides
of this raised step that the pot plants are grouped,
leaving free access to a wooden seat in the middle,
and a clear way to a door on the left.

The first thing is to secure good greenery. On each

side three oblong Italian terra-cotta pots full of Funkia
121

122 COLOUR SCHEMES

grandiflora stand on the lower level. They serve to
hide the common flower-pots that are ranged behind.
The picture shows how it looks a day or two after it
is first arranged, early in June when the Clematis
montana is stillin bloom. Next above the ornamental
pots are common ones, also with Funkia grandiflora.
On the inner side of the groups, next the house, are pots
of Aspidistra, and, against the wall, of Male Fern, and
there are more Ferns and Funkias for filling spaces
between the flowering plants. Of these the most
important are Lilies—longiflorum, candidum and
speciosum—and Hydrangeas, but we also have pots of
Spanish Irises, of Gladiolus Colvillei The Bride, Cam-
panula persicifoha and C. pyramidalis, of white and
pink Phloxes and of white and pink Cup-and-saucer
Canterbury Bells. The last are taken up from the
ground and potted only just before they comeinto bloom.

There are seldom more than two kinds of flowering
plants placed here at a time ; the two or three sorts of
beautiful foliage are in themselves delightful to the eye ;
often there is nothing with them but Lilies, and one
hardly desires to have more. There is an ample filling
of the green plants, so that no pots are seen.

If the place were in the sun the plants chosen would
be largely Geraniums ; two-year-old plants in good-
sized pots ; and, in place of the Ferns that enjoy shade
and the Funkias whose leaves often burn in the sun,
there would be the large-leaved Megasea cordifolia.
Here also would be Lilies, Hydrangeas and Cannas,
and good store of the graceful Maiden’s Wreath
(Francoa ramosa).

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GROUPINGS OF PLANTS IN POTS 123

The Geraniums would be very carefully assorted for
colour ; in one part of the scheme white and soft pink,
in another the rosy scarlets, and elsewhere the salmon-
reds, now so numerous and good. The last two groups
might by degrees tone into the pure scarlets, of which
the best I know and the most delightful in colour is
Paul Crampel. The colour is pure and brilliant but
not cruel. I can think of no other word that so well
describes some scarlets of a harsh quality that gives
discomfort rather than satisfaction to a sensitive
colour-eye. Henry Jacoby is to me one of the cruel reds
and has no place among my flowers. I have no desire
to disparage a plant which is so general a favourite,
but feel sure that its popularity is a good deal owing
to the fact that the main gardening public is inclined
rather to accept what is put before it than to take the
trouble to search for something better. Although the
colour of this Geranium is extremely vivid, a whole bed
of it has a heavy appearance and is wanting in pictorial
effect.

I have great pleasure in putting together Omphale,
palest salmon-pink ; Mrs. Laurence, a shade deeper ;
Mrs. Cannell, a salmon-scarlet approaching the quality
of colour of Phlox Coquelicot, and leading these by
degrees to the pure, good scarlet of Paul Crampel. A
bed or clump or border planted with these, or varieties
equivalent in colour, would be seen to have, in com-
parison with a bed of Henry Jacoby, a quite remarkable
degree of life, brilliancy, beauty and interest. The
colouring would be actually brighter and yet more kind
and acceptable to the eye.

124 COLOUR SCHEMES

Had I more strength I should visit the nurseries in
order to see all the excellent Geraniums that are now
grown, and to group them into colour-combinations
such as could be confidently recommended. As it is,
I have to depend upon the courtesy of my friends in
the horticultural trade, when I have occasion to make
such combinations, for sending me blooms that I can
choose from. ;

For detached vases that stand on pedestals, so that
the whole of the vase and contents becomes warmed by
exposure to sunlight, a condition specially grateful to
Geraniums, I know no variety more useful than King
of Denmark. The flowers are in large trusses, half-
double, of an excellent soft salmon-pink colour ; the
_ foliage is bold and well marked; the whole plant
massive and handsome. For this and any other out-
door pot-culture it is best if strong two-year-old plants
can be kept.

There are among Geraniums some of a raw magenta-
pink that I regret to see in many gardens and that will
certainly never be admitted into mine.

In designing gardens where there are flagged spaces
it is well to remember the good effect of summer flowers
in slightly raised beds with stone edges. Such beds
often come happily in conjunction with steps and
paved landings and designs in which fountains occur.
Summer flowers, such as Geraniums, Lilies and Cannas,
seem to revel in such beds and are never seen to better
advantage. Owing to the cottage character of my
house I have little scope for such beds—none at all
for the best kind with dwarf walls and curbs of moulded

GROUPINGS OF PLANTS IN POTS 125

freestone, but I have one edged with a low wall of
local sandstone where there is a square landing paved
with the same stone and short flights of steps in con-
nection with a tank and a lower garden level. Here
Geraniums and Cannas luxuriate in shelter and full
sunshine.

Maiden’s Wreath (Francoa ramosa) is a plant for
many uses. The foliage, though sparing in quantity,
is distinct and handsome. The long flower-stems are
flung out with a kind of determination of character
that would seem to imply that the plant knows what
is expected of it and intends to fulfil its settled duty
and purpose, namely, that of being a graceful and
beautiful ornament. Towards the later summer these
flower-stems become so heavy that there is danger of
their weight, swayed by a little wind, wrenching out
whole portions of the plant. Support should be given
with short pieces of hazel stick tied half way up the
stem. In nurseries it is general, and even in private
gardens not unusual, to see the flowers tied straight
upright. This should never be, for it not only forces
the plant into a form that is entirely at variance with
its nature, but robs it of its natural grace and valuable
individuality.

There is no end to the uses of Hydrangeas in pots ;
a well-bloomed plant will give life and interest to many
an uninteresting corner; the bloom is long-enduring
and stands equally well in sun and shade. If the blue
colour, which comes naturally in some soils, is desired,
it can be had by mixing pounded slate and iron filings
with the compost—alum is another well-known agent

126 COLOUR SCHEMES

for inducing the blue colour. But I have much faith
in slate, for the bluest I have ever seen came from a
garden on a slaty soil.

A few only of the many plants that can with ad-
vantage be used in pots have been named, but in any
case it would be well to bear in mind that it is best to
restrict the number of kinds shown at once and to make
sure of the good groundwork of foliage. I have there-
fore only dwelt upon the few that came to mind as the
best and easiest to use. But the pretty red and white
single Fuchsias of the Mme. Cornellisson type should
not be forgotten; and the fine Comet and Ostrich
Plume Asters are capital pot-plants, for, like Canter-
bury Bells, they bear lifting from the open ground just
before they flower and everrin full bloom.

Plants grown in pots lead naturally to the considera-
tion of those most suitable for tubs. Of these the most
important are permanent things of shrubby nature—
several of the Orange and Lemon family, Oleander,
Pomegranate, Bay, Myrtle, Datura, Sweet Verbena
and dwarf Palm, also Hydrangea, Tree Heliotrope and
Agapanthus. The last is of course a bulbous plant,
but from its large, solid foliage and quantity of long-
enduring bloom it is one of the best of plants for tubs.
The greater number of these need housing in winter
in an Orangery or other frost-proof building. Other
bushy plants for tub use that are hardier are some of
the Veronicas, such as Travérsi, speciosa and hulkeana,
Olearia Haastit and O. Gunni. Tree Peonies, though
rarely so used, are capital tub plants, and, though they

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GROUPINGS OF PLANTS IN POTS 127

are not very long in flower, their supreme beauty makes
them desirable. They should certainly be grown in
places where labour is not restricted and where there
are suitable places for standing such plants away and
caring for them in the off season.

For the same kind of use the Tree Lupines, both
white and yellow, would be excellent. Funkia Sieboldi
also makes a handsome tub, while for summer filling
Cannas are admirable and old Geraniums in bush form
always acceptable. I have never seen Acanthus used
in this way, but can see no reason against it. The
smaller Bamboos, such as the handsome broad-leaved
B. tessellata, are very good in tubs. In speaking of
plants suitable for tubs, I take the word to include the
larger sizes of terra-cotta pots ; but Agapanthus should
never be planted in earthenware, as the roots, which
remain for many years undisturbed, have so strong a
fending power that they will burst anything less
resisting than iron-hooped wood.

It is rare to see, anywhere in England, plant-tubs
painted a pleasant colour. In nearly every garden they
are painted a strong raw green with the hoops black,
whereas any green that is not bright and raw would
be much better. This matter of the colouring of all
such garden accessories as have to be painted deserves
more attention than it commonly receives. Doors in
garden walls, trellises, wooden railings and hand-gates
and seats—all these and any other items of woodwork
that stand out in the garden and are seen among its
flowers and foliage should, if painted green, be of such
a green as does not for brightness come into competition

128 COLOUR SCHEMES

with the green of leaves. In the case of tubs especially,
it is the plant that is to be considered first—not the
tub. The bright, harsh green on the woodwork makes
the colour of the foliage look dull and ineffective. It
would be desirable, in the case of solitary tub plants,
to study the exact colour that would be most becoming
to the flower and foliage ; but as it is needful, to avoid
a patchy appearance, to paint the whole of the tubs in
any one garden scheme the same colour, a tint should
be chosen that is quiet in itself and that is lower in tone
than the dullest of the foliage in any of the examples.
Moreover, there is no reason for painting the hoops
black; it is much better to paint the whole out of
one pot. ;

A good quiet green can be made with black, chrome
No. 1 and white lead, enough white being mixed to
give the depth or lightness desired. A pretty colour of
paint is much used in France that approximates to the
colourman’s malachite green. This is not the bright
colour of malachite as we know the. polished. stone,
but a pale, opaque bluish green approaching the tur-
quoise tints. In the bright, clear climate of France,
and in connection with the higher type of French
architecture, also in more southern countries, the
colour looks very well, though it is not becoming to
some foliage ; but something quieter and more sober
is better suited for England.

Elsewhere I have written of the deplorable effect in
the garden landscape of the glaring white paint—still
worse when tinted blue—that emphasises the ugliness
of the usual greenhouse or conservatory. This may

LILIUM AURATUM.,

A.

HYDRANGE

>

TUE

A

AND HYDRANGEAS.

STEPS

‘NMPT HLQOS MOYEN AHL

GROUPINGS OF PLANTS IN POTS 129

be mitigated, if the unsightly structure cannot be
concealed, by adding to the white a good deal of black
and raw umber, till the paint is of the quiet warm grey
that for some strange reason is known to house-painters
as Portland-stone colour.

CHAPTER XV
SOME GARDEN PICTURES

WuHEN the eye is-trained to perceive pictorial effect, it
is fréquently struck by something—some combination
of grouping, lighting and colour—that is seen to- have
that complete aspect of unity and beauty that to the
artist’s eye forms a picture. Such are the impressions
that the artist-gardener endeavours to produce in
every portion of the garden. Many of these good
intentions fail, some come fairly well; a few reward
him by a success that was beyond anticipation. When
this is the case it is probably due to some cause that
had been overlooked but that had chanced to com-
plete his intention, such as the position of the sun in
relation to some wished-for colour-picture. Then there
are some days during the summer when the quality
of light seems to tend to an extraordinary beauty of
effect. I have never been able to find out how the
light on these occasions differs from that of ordinary
fine summer days, but, when these days come, I know
them and am filled with gladness,

In the case of my own garden, so far as deliberate
intention goes, what is aimed at is something quite
simple and devoid of complication; generally one

thing or a very limited number of flowering things at
130

SOME GARDEN PICTURES 131

a time, but that one, or those few things, carefully
placed so as to avoid fuss, and give pleasure to the eye
and ease to the mind. In many cases the aim has
been to show some delightful colour combination with-
out regard to the other considerations that go to the
making of a more ambitious picture. It may be a
group in a shrub border, or a combination of border
and climbing plants, or some carefully designed
company of plants in the rock garden. I have a little
rose that I call the Fairy Rose. It came to me from a
cottage garden, and I have never seenit elsewhere: It
grows about a foot high and has blush-pink flowers with
the colour deepening to the centre. In character the
flower is somewhere between the lovely Blush Boursault
at its best and the little De Meaux. It is an inch and
a half across and of beautiful form, especially in the
half-opened bud. Wishing to enjoy its beauty to the
utmost, and to bring it comfortably within sight, I
gave it a shelf in raised rock-work and brought near
and under it a clear pale lilac Viola and a good drift
of Achillea umbellata. It was worth doing. Another
combination that gives me much pleasure is that of
the pink Pompon Rose Mignonette with Catmint
and whitish foliage, such as Stachys or Artemisia
stelleriana. I may have mentioned this before, but
it is so pretty that it deserves repetition.

In a shrubbery border the fine Spire@a Avuncus is
beautiful with an interplanting of Thalictrum pur-
pureum. At the end of a long flower-clump there is
a yew hedge coming forward at right angles to the
length of the border. Behind the hedge is a stone wall

132 COLOUR SCHEMES

with an arch, through which the path in front of the
border passes. Over the stone arch, and rambling
partly over the yews, are the vigorous mariy-flowered
growths of Clematis Flammula. At the end of the
border are pale sulphur-coloured Hollyhocks. Both in
form and colour this was a delightful picture; the
foam-like masses of the Clematis resting on the dusky
richness of the yew; the straight shafts of the Holly-
hock giving clear colour and agreeing with the upright
lines of the sides of the archway, which showed dimly
in the shade. These.are only a few incidents out of
numbers that occur or are intentionally arranged.
There is a place‘near my house where a path leads
down through a nut-walk to the further garden. It is
crossed by a shorter path that ends at a Birch-tree
with a tall silvered trunk. It seemed desirable to
accentuate the point where the paths cross ; I therefore
put down four square platforms of stone “ pitching ”
as a place for the standing of four Hydrangeas in tubs.
Just before the tree is a solid wooden seat and a shallow
wide step done with the same stone pitching. Tree
and seat are surrounded on three sides by a rectangular
planting of yews. The tender greys of the rugged
lower bark of the Birch and the silvering of its upper
stem tell finely against the dark velvet-like richness
of the Yew and the leaf-mass of other trees beyond ;
the pink flowers and fresh green foliage of the Hydran-
geas are also brilliant against the dusky green. It is
just one simple picture that makes one glad for three
months of the later summer and early autumn. The
longer cross-path, which on the right leads in a few

HYDRANGEA TUBS AND BIRCH-TREE SEAT.

MTR AL LIN GNF SYdak VAONVUCALH

SOME GARDEN PICTURES 133

yards to steps up to the paved court on the north side
of the house, on the left passes down the nut-walk, as
the second illustration shows. The Birch-tree and
seat are immediately to the right, just out of the
picture. Standing a little way down the shaded nut-
walk and looking back, the Hydrangeas are seen in
another aspect, with the steps and house behind them
in shade, and the sun shining through their pale green
leaves. Sitting on the seat, the eye, passing between
the pink Hydrangea flowers, sees a short straight
path bounded by a wall of Tree Box to right and left,
and at the far end one tub of pale blue Hydrangea in
shade, backed by a repetition of the screen of Yews
such as enclose the Birch-tree.

On the south side of the house there is a narrow
border full of Rosemary, with China Roses and a
Vine, as shown in the illustration opposite p. 114.
Here the narrow lawn, backed by woodland, is higher
than the house-level. Shallow steps lead up to it in
the middle, and to right and left is low dry-walling.
On the upper edge of this is a hedge of Scotch Briars,
shown in full bloom at p. 50, and in the narrow
border below, a planting of the low-growing Andromeda
(Leucothoé) axillaris, a little shrub that is neat through-
out the year and in winter prettily red-tinted.

The beautiful White Lily cannot be grown in the
hot sandy soil of my garden. Even if its place be
ever so well prepared with the loam and lime that it
loves, the surrounding soil-influences seem to rob it
of its needful nourishment; it makes a miserable
show for one year and never appears again. The only

134 COLOUR SCHEMES

way to grow it is in pots or tubs sunk in the soil. For
some years I had wished to have an orderly planting
of this lovely Lily in the lower border at the back of
the Andromeda just in front of the Briars. I had no
flower-pots deep enough, or wide enough at the bottom,
but was able to make a contrivance with some short,
broad, unglazed drain-pipes, measuring a foot long and
of about the same diameter, by cementing in an arti-
ficial bottom made of pieces of roofing-tile and broken
flower-pot, leaving spaces for drainage. Then three
bulbs were put in each pot in a compost that I knew
they would enjoy. When they were half grown the
pots were sunk in holes at nearly even distances
among the Andromedas, and in a few weeks my row
of Lilies gave me my reward. Other Lilies (L. longi-
florum) follow them a month later, just beyond in the
wood edge among tufts of Male Fern, and a pot of
Francoa is to right and left of the shallow steps.

During the last year or two some pretty incidents
have occurred about these same steps; not important
enough to call garden pictures, but charming and inter-
esting and easily enjoyable because they are close to
the open garden door of the sitting-room and because
they teach me to look out for the desirable things that
come of themselves. A seedling of the wild Clematis
(C. Vitalba) appeared among the Briars to the left.
As it was too strong a plant to let grow over them
unchecked, I pulled it forward towards the steps,
training one or two shoots to run along the hollow of
the step and laying on them pieces of stone, invisible
among the foliage, to keep them from being dislodged

WHITE LILIES.

eer Z foamy fh

THE STEPS AND THEIR INCIDENTS.

SOME GARDEN PICTURES 136
by the skirts of visitors or the gambols of my cats
At the same time, in a crack of the stone just below
the upper step there came a seedling of the tall Chimney
Campanula (C. pyramidalis). The second year this
threw up its tall flower-stem and was well in bloom
when it was wrecked by an early autumn gale, the
wind wrenching out the crown and upper root-stock.
But a little shred of rooted life remained, and now there
is again the sturdy tuft promising more flower-stems
for the coming season.

Close behind the Bell-flower a spreading sheet of
Wild Thyme has crept out of the turf and flowed rather
widely over the stone. Luckily I just saved it from
the tidying process that threatened it, and as it is now
well established over the stone I still have the pleasure
of its bright rosy bloom when the duties of the mowing-
machine rob me of the other tiny flowers—Hawkweed,
Milkwort and Bedstraw—that bloom so bravely in
the intervals between its ruthless but indispensable
ministrations,

CHAPTER XVI
A BEAUTIFUL FRUIT GARDEN

THERE is a whole range of possible beautiful treatment
in fruit-growing that is rarely carried out or even
attempted. Hitherto but little has been done to
make the fruit garden a place of beauty; we find it
almost flaunting its unloveliness, its white painted
orchard-houses and vineries, its wires and wire-nettings.
It is not to be denied that all these are necessary, and
that the usual and most obvious way of working them
does not make for beauty. But in designing new
gardens or remodelling old, on a rather large scale,
there need be no difficulty in so arranging that all
that is necessarily unbeautiful should be kept in one
department, so hedged or walled around as to be out
of sight.

In addition to such a fruit garden for strict utility
I have in mind a walled enclosure of about an acre
and a half, longer than wide, laid out as shown in the
plan. I have seen in large places just such spaces,
actually walled but put to no use.

The wall has trained fruit-trees—Peaches spreading
their goodly fans, Pears showing long, level lines, and,
including hardy Grape Vines, giving all the best
exposition of the hardy fruit-grower’s art. Next to

136

A BEAUTIFUL FRUIT GARDEN 137

the wall is a space six feet wide for ample access
to the fruit-trees, their pruning, training and root-
management ; then a fourteen-foot plant border, wholly
for beauty, and a path eight feet wide. At a middle
point on all four sides the high wall has an arched
doorway corresponding to the grassy way between the
fruit-trees in the middle space. If the wall has some
symmetrical building on the outside of each angle,
so much the better; the garden can make use of all.
One may be a bothy, with lower extension out of sight ;
one a half-underground fruit-store, with bulb-store
above ; a third a paint-shop, and a fourth a tea-house.

The middle space is all turf; in the centre a Mul-
berry, and, both ways across, double lines of fruit-trees,
ending with Bays; the Bays are at the ends on
the plan. In almost any part of the sea-warmed
south of England, below the fifty-first parallel of
latitude, which passes through the upper part of Sussex,
the rows of fruit-trees on the green might be standard
Figs ; elsewhere they would be bush Pears and Apples.
If the soil is calcareous, so much the better for the
Figs and Mulberry, the Vines and indeed nearly all
the fruits. The angle-clumps in the grass are planted
with Magnolias, Yuccas and Hydrangeas.

The border all round is for small shrubs and plants
of some solidity or importance; the spaces are too
long for an ordinary flower border. It would have a
good bush of Magnolia stellata at each angle, Yuccas,
Tritomas, hardy Fuchsias, Peonies, Euphorbia Wul-
fenii, Hollyhocks, Dahlias, Hydrangeas, Michaelmas
Daisies, Flag Iris, the beautiful Olearia Gunni and

reer
Q

THE BEAUTIFUL FRUIT GARDEN

A BEAUTIFUL FRUIT GARDEN 139

O. Haastii, Tree Lupines, Forsythia, Weigela, the
smaller Bush ‘Spirzas, Veronicas, Tamarisk, the large-
bloomed Clematises, bush kinds of garden Roses,
Funkias, and so on.

Surely my fruit garden would be not only a place
of beauty, of pleasant sight and pleasant thought,
but of leisurely repose, a repose broken only faintly
and in welcome fashion by its own interests—in July,
August and September a goodly place in which to
wander and find luscious fruits in quantity that can
be gathered and eaten straight from the tree. There
is a pleasure in searching for and eating fruit in this
way that is far better than having it picked by the
gardener and brought in and set before one on a dish
in a tame room. Is this feeling an echo of far-away
days of savagery when men hunted for their food and
rejoiced to find it, or is it rather the poet’s delight
of having direct intercourse with the good gift of the
growing thing and seeing and feeling through all the
senses how good and gracious the thing is? To pass
the hand among the leaves of the Fig-tree, noting that
they are a little harsh upon the upper surface and yet
soft beneath ; to be aware of their faint, dusky scent ;
to see the cracking of the coat of the fruit and the
yellowing of the neck where it joins the branch—the
two indications of ripeness—sometimes made clearer
’ by the drop of honeyed moisture at the eye; then the
handling of the fruit itself, which must needs be gentle
because the tender coat is so readily bruised and torn ;
at the same time observing the slight greyish bloom
and the colouring—low-toned transitions of purple

t40 COLOUR SCHEMES

and green; and finally to have the enjoyment of the
luscious pulp, with the knowledge that it is one of the
most wholesome and sustaining of fruit foods—surely
all this is worthy garden service! Then how delicious
are the sun-warmed Apricots and Peaches, and, later
in the year, the Jargonelle Pears, always best eaten
straight from the tree; and the ripe Mulberries of
September. And how pleasant to stroll about the
wide grassy ways, turning from the fruits to the
flowers in the clumps and borders; to the splendid
Yuccas and the masses of Hydrangea bloom, and then
to the gorgeous Tritomas and other delights; and
to see the dignity of the stately Bay-trees and the
incomparable beauty of their every twig and leaf.

The beautiful fruit garden would naturally lead to
the orchard, a place that is not so often included in
the pleasure-ground as it deserves. For what is more
lovely than the bloom of orchard trees in April and
May, with the grass below in its strong, young growth ;
in itself a garden of Cowslips and Daffodils. In an
old orchard how pictorial are the lines of the low-
leaning old Apple-trunks and the swing and poise of
their upper branches, best seen in winter when their
graceful movement of line and wonderful sense of
balance can be fully appreciated. But the younger
orchard has its beauty too, of fresh, young life and
wealth of bloom and bounteous bearing.

Then if the place of the orchard suggests a return
to nearer pleasure-ground with yet some space between,
how good to make this into a free garden orchard
for the fruits of wilder character; for wide-spreading

A BEAUTIFUL FRUIT GARDEN 141

Medlars, for Quinces, again some of the most graceful
of small British trees; for Service, Damson, Bullace;
Crabs and their many allies, not fruit-bearing trees
except from the birds’ and botanists’ points of view,
but beautiful both in bloom and berry, such as the
Mountain Ash, Wild Cherry, Blackthorn, and the
large-berried White-thorns, Bird-Cherry, White Beam,
Holly and Amelanchier. Then all these might be inter-
grouped with great brakes of the free-growing Roses
and the wilder kinds of Clematis and Honeysuckle.
And right through it should be a shady path of Filberts
or Cobnuts arching overhead and yielding a grateful
summer shade and a bountiful autumn harvest.

CHAPTER XVII
PLANTING FOR WINTER COLOUR

Muc# cheerful positive colour, other than that given
by flowers or leaves, may be obtained in winter by
using a good selection of small trees with coloured
bark. Of these the most useful are the Red Dogwood
and some of the Willows. This planting for colour of
bright-barked trees is no new thing, for a good half
century ago the late Lord Somers, at Eastnor Castle
near Malvern, used to “ paint his woods,” as he
described it, in this way. :

The Cardinal Willow has bright red bark, Salix
britzensis orange, and the Golden Osier bright yellow.
The yearly growth has the best-coloured bark, so that
when they are employed for giving colour it is usual
to cut them every winter ; moreover, the large quan-
tity of young shoots that the cutting induces naturally
increases the density of the colour effect. But if they
are planted in a rather large way it is better that the
regular winter cutting should be restricted to those
near the outer edge, and to let a good proportion of
those within stand for two or more years, and to
have some in the background that are never cut at
all, but that are allowed to grow to their full size and
to show their natural habit.

142

PLANTING FOR WINTER COLOUR 143

It will also be well, instead of planting them exclu-
sively sort by sort, to group and intergroup care-
fully assorted colours, such as the scarlet Willow with
the purple-barked kind, and to let this pass into the
American Willow with the black stem. Such a group
should not be too large, and it should be near the
pathway, for it will show best near at hand. For the
sake of the bark-colouring, it would be best to cut it
all every year, although in the larger plantings it is
desirable to have the trees of different ages, or the
effect may be too much that of a mere crop instead
of a well-arranged garden grouping.

Some of the garden Roses, both of the free-growing
and bush kinds, have finely coloured bark that can
be used in much the same way. They are specially
good in broken ground, such as the banks of an old
hollow cart-way converted to garden use, or the sloping
débris ofaquarry. Of the free kinds, the best coloured
are Rosa ferruginea, whose leaves are red as well as the
stem—it is the Rosa rubrifolia of nurseries—and the
varieties of Boursault Roses, derived from Rosa alpina.
As bushes for giving reddish colouring, Rosa lucida
would be among the best.

By waterside the Great Reedmace—commonly but
wrongly called Bulrush—holds its handsome seed-
heads nearly through the winter, and beds of the
Common Reed (Arundo Phragmites) stand up the winter
through in masses of light, warm colouring that are
grateful to the eye and suggest comfortable harbourage
for wildfowl.

Some shrubs have conspicuously green bark, such

144 COLOUR SCHEMES

as the Spindle-tree ; but the habit of growth is rather
too diffuse to let it make a distinct show of colour.
Leycesteria formosa is being tried in mass for winter
colour in some gardens, but I venture to feel a little
doubtful of its success ; for though the skin of the half-
woody stem is bright green, the plant has the habit
of retaining some of its leaves and the remains of its
flowering tips till January, or even later. After frost
these have the appearance of untidy grey rags, and
are distinctly unsightly. The brightest effect of all
green-barked plants is that given by Whortleberry,
a plant that on peaty or sandy soils is one of the most
enjoyable of winter undershrubs.

It would add greatly to the enjoyment of many
country places if some portions were planted with
evergreens expressly for winter effect. Some region
on the outskirts of the garden, and between it and
woodland, would be the most desirable. If well done
the sense of wintry discomfort would disappear, for
nearly all the growing things would be at their best,
and even in summer, shrubs and plants can do no
more than this. In summer, too, it would be good
to see, for the green things would have such an inter-
planting of free Roses, Jasmines, Clematis, Honey-
suckles, Forsythia, and so on, as would make charming
incidents of flower-beauty.

The place for this winter walk should be sheltered
from the north and east. I have such a place in my
mind’s eye, where, beyond the home garden and partly
wooded old shrubbery, there is a valley running up
into a fir-wooded hill. The path goes up the hill-side

PLANTING FOR WINTER COLOUR 145

diagonally, with a very gentle gradient. In the cooler,
lower portion there would be Rhododendrons and
Kalmias, with lesser growths of Skimmia and Gaul-
theria. Close to the path, on the less sunny side,
would be Lent Hellebores and the delightful winter
greenery of Epimedium. Then in full sun Andromeda
japonica, and on the shadier side Andromeda floribunda.
Both of these hard and rather brittle-wooded shrubs
belong to the group properly named Pieris, and form
dense bushes four or more feet high. At their foot
would be the lower-growing Andromedas of the Leu-
cothoé section, with lissome branches of a more willow-
like character. These make a handsome ground-
carpeting from one to three feet high, beautiful at all
seasons—the leaves in winter tinted or marbled with
red. Portions of the cooler side would also have
fringes of Hartstongue and Polypody, both winter
ferns. Then, as the path rose into more direct sun-
light, there would be Cistuses—in all mild winter
days giving off their strong, cordial scent—and the
dwarf Rhododendrons. Behind the Cistuses would
be White Broom, finely green-stemmed in winter.
There would even be shrubs in flower; the thick-set
yellowish bloom of Witch Hazel (Hamamelis) and the
bright yellow of Jasminum nudifiorum. Then groups
of Junipers, and all the ground carpeted with Heath,
and so to the upper Fir-wood. Then, after the com-
forting greenery of the lower region, the lovely colour
of distant winter landscape would be intensely enjoy-
able; for the greys and purples of the leafless wood-
land of middle distance have a beauty that no summer

146 COLOUR SCHEMES

landscape can show. In clear weather the further
distances have tints of an extraordinary purity, while
the more frequent days of slightly distant haze have
another kind -of beautiful mystery.

The common Laurel is generally seen as a long-
suffering garden hack, put to all sorts of rather ignoble
uses. It is so cheap to buy, so quick of growth and
so useful as an easily made screen that its better use
is, except in rare instances, lost sight of. Planted in
thin woodland and never pruned, it grows into a small
tree that takes curious ways and shapes of trunk and
branch of a character that is remarkably pictorial,

CHAPTER XVIII
FORM IN PLANTING

IF in the foregoing chapters I have dwelt rather in-
sistently on matters of colour, it is not that I under-
rate the equal importance of form and proportion, but
that I think that the question of colour, as regards its
more careful use, is either more commonly neglected
or has had fewer exponents. As in all matters relating
to design in gardening, the good placing of plants in
detail is a matter of knowledge of an artistic character.
The shaping of every group of plants, to have the best
effect, should not only be definitely intended, but
should be done with an absolute conviction by the
hand that feels the drawing that the group must have
in relation to what is near, or to the whole form of
the clump or border or whatever the nature of the
place may be. I am only too well aware that to many
this statement may convey no idea whatever ; never-
theless I venture to insist upon its truth. Moreover,
I am addressing this book to the consideration of
those who are in sympathy with my views of gardening,
among whom I know there are many who, even if they
have not made themselves able, by study and long
practice, to show in groundwork and garden design
the quality known to artists as dyawing—by which is
147

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Upper Figure: As First Planted.
Lower Figure: After Alteration,

FORM IN PLANTING 149

meant a right movement of line and form and group—
can at least recognise its value—indeed, its supreme
importance—when it is present, and do not, in its
absence, fail to feel that the thing shown is without
life, spirit, or reasonable justification.

Even a proficiency in some branch of fine art does
not necessarily imply ability to lay out ground. Ihave
known, in the intimate association of half a lifetime,
a landscape painter whose interpretation of natural
beauty was of the most refined and poetical quality,
and who truly loved flowers and beautiful vegetation,
but who was quite incapable of personally arranging
a garden; although it is more usual that an artist
should almost unconsciously place plants well.

It is therefore not to-be expected that it is enough
to buy good plants and merely to tell the gardener
of average ability to plant them in groups, as is now
often done with the very best intention. It is impos-
sible for the gardener to know what is meant. In all
the cases that have come under my notice, where
such indefinite instruction has been given, the things
have been planted in stiff blocks. Quite lately I came
upon such an example in the garden of a friend who
is by no means without a sense of beauty. There was
a bank-like space on the outskirts of the pleasure-
ground where it was wished to have a wild Heath
garden. A better place could hardly be, for the soil
is light and sandy and the space lies out in full sunlight.
The ground had been thrown about into ridges and
valleys, but without any reference to its natural form,
whereas with half the labour it might have been guided
into slight hollows, ridges and promontories of good

to COLOUR SCHEMES

line and proportion. I found it planted as in the
upper plan; the path stiffly edged with one kind of
Heath on one side and another kind on the other ;
the back planting in rectangular blocks; near the
front, bushes of Veronica at exactly even distances,
and between each bush the same number of Heaths in
every interval quite stiffly planted. Some of the blocks
at the back were of Violets—plants quite unsuited
to the place. Yet, only leaving out the Violets, all
the same plants might have been disposed so as to
come quite easily and naturally as shown on the
lower plan. Then a thin sowing of the finer Heath
grasses, to include the pathway, where alone they
would be mown, and a clever interplanting of wild
Thyme and the native Wood Sage (Teucrium Scoro-
dona), common on the neighbouring heaths, would
have put the whole thing together and would have
given the impression, so desirable in wild planting,
of the thing having so happened, rather than of its
having been artificially made.

In planting or thinning trees also, the whole ultimate
good of the effect will depend on this sense of form
and good grouping. If these qualities are secured,
the result in after years will be a poem; if they are
neglected, it will be nothing but a crop.

I can imagine nothing more interesting than the
guiding and part-planting of large stretches of natural
young woodland, with some hilly ground above and
water at the foot. As it is, I have to be content with
my little wood of ten acres; yet I am truly glad to
have even that small space to treat with reverent
thankfulness and watchful care.

INDEX

INDEX

A

ABUTILON vitifolium, 50, 69,
118

Acanthus, 27, 28, 97, 113; as
tub plant, 127

Achillea umbellata, 50, 131;
A. Eupatorium, 62, 72;
The Pearl, 75, 110

Adonis, 27

Esculus, 76

Agapanthus, 127

Agathea ccelestis, 62, 66, 69

Ageratum, 53, 60, 74, 90, IIO,
III

Alexandrian Laurel, 113

Alpenrose, 8, 20, 94

Alyssum, 28

Amelanchier, 13

Anchusa, 46, 49

Andromeda, 8, 15, 20, 35, 94,
133, 145

Anemone sylvestris, 39 ; japo-
nica, go

Annuals, half hardy, 53, 60 ;
hardy, 60

Antennaria, 29

Apples, 137

Arabis, double,
32

Arbutus, 95

Arenaria balearica, 35; mon-
tana, 36

26, 27, 29,

Artemisia stelleriana, 66, 75,
89, 131

Arundo Phragmites, 143

Asarum, 18, 36, 113

Aspidistra, 122

Asters, China, 60, 76, 89, 126;
perennial, 75, 90, 97

Aubrietia, 26, 29, 32

Aucuba, 113

August, Flower-border in,
68

Azalea, 19, 93

B

BamBusa tessellata, 97; as
tub plant, 127

Bay, 53, 137

Bedding plants, 53, 80

Begonias, 90; with Megasea,
gI

Berberis, 31

Bergamot, 62

Blue flowers, 66, 70

Blue garden, 98, I1r

Bracken, 14, 15

Briars, Scotch, 49, 133

Broom, white, 38, 39, 40, 95,
145

Bulb-border, 5

153

184 INDEX

Cc

CaLcEOLARIA amplexicaulis,
85

Camassia, 27, 36

Campanula pyramidalis, 58 ;
in steps, 135; persicifolia,
43, 114; lactiflora, 61, 63,
71; macrantha alba, 114

Campanulas in pots, 122, 135

Canna, 62, 73, 83, 85, 87; in
pots, 122, 127

Canterbury Bells, 53; in pots
122

C€aryopteris, 76

Catmint, 45, 49, 75, III

Centranthus, 50

Cerastium, 29

Chalky banks,
120

China Rose, 116

Chionodoxa, 6

Choisya ternata, 53

Chrysanthemum coronarium,
60, IOI

Cineraria maritima, 50, 54,
63, 64, 66, 68, 74, 75, 89,
110

Cistus, 15, 19, 21, 40, 64, 69,
95, 145

Clematis montana, 28, 29, 31,
36, 42, 53, 116, I17, 122;
C, davidiana, 71, 88, 112;
C. Flammula, 57, 118, 132;
C, Jackmanni, 56, 75; C.
recta, 54, 64, 65, 112; C.
Vitalba, 95, 120, 134

Climbing plants, 115

Colour, in woodland, 1; scheme
of Rhododendrons, 16; of
old Scotch Fir, 18; tender
in spring garden, 24; strong
in spring garden, 26

plants for,

Colour, optical effect of, 54;
gardens of special, 98; of
paint for garden acces-
sories, 127

Colour-combinations, 49, 53,
62, 75, 77, 131

Colour-planting for winter,142

Coltsfoot, variegated, 90, 113

Columbines, 37, 43, 94

Coreopsis, 62, 73, I0I

Corydalis bulbosa, 7; ochro-
leuca, 29, 36, 39

Cosmos 54,

Cottage gardens, 115

Cow-Parsnip, Giant, 47

Cranesbill, 45, 52

Crown Imperial, 27

D

DAFFODILS, 7, 15, 16, 26, 32

Dahlias, 54, 57, 69, 73, 87, 89,
90, 137; best kinds for
border use, 91

Daphne Mezereum, 2

Delphinium Belladonna, 66,
112; grandiflorum, 66

Dentaria, 30, 94

Desmodium _ penduliflorum,
120

Dicentra eximia 27

Dictamnus, 26, 53

Dielytra spectabilis, 29

Dog-tooth Violet, 2, 6

Doronicum, 27

Drifts in planting, 16, 26

Dropmore Anchusa Opal, 46,
49

E

Ear.y bulb-border, 1
Echinops 75

INDEX

archarius

Elymus, 54, 70, 74, III; in
the grey garden, 111

Empty spaces in borders, fill-
ing up, 57, 69

Epilobium, 94

Epimedium, 36, 40, 94, 114,
145

Erica carnea, 8; hybrida, 8;
ciliata, 21

Eryngium, 62, 63, 72, 75, 113

Erythronium, 6

Eulalia, 68, 113

Euphorbia Wulfenii, 24, 27,
40, 53, 63, 82, 137; E.
characias, 82

Evergreens for winter effect,
144

Everlasting Pea, 56, 61, 68,

75, 111
Exochorda, 38

F

Fern, Lady, 14, 36, 114;
Osmunda, 14; Fern, Male,
6, 14, 42, I13, 122, 134;
dilated shield, 14, 19;
Polypody, 14, 145; hardy
Ferns, 58, 94, 96, 97, 145;
Ferns in pots, 122

Fern walk, 14, 17

Feverfew, Golden Feather,
85, 90

Fig, 49, 116, 137

Flower-border, 52

Form in planting, 147

Forsythia suspensa, 5, 120,
139

Foxgloves, 17, 43, 46, 53, 60,
69, 94, 95

Francoa, 122, 125

French Marigold, 60

155

Fruit garden, beautiful, 136

Fuchsia, 126, 137

Fumaria bulbosa, 6

Funkia, 35, 58, 96, 113, 121;
F. Sieboldi as tub plant, 127

G

GALVANISED iron roof, treat-
ment of, 59 i‘

Gaultheria, 15, 20, 93, 145

Gazanias, 63

Gentiana asclepiadea, 14, 94

Geranium ibericum, 45, 52

Geraniums (Pelargonium), 83,
122

Gladiolus, 73, 85, 88, 90; in
pots, 122

Glyceria, 113

Godetia, 75

Gold garden 98; plants for 99

Golden Elder, rog

Golden Plane, 100

Goodyera, 18

Gourds, 120

Green-barked shrubs, 144

Green garden, 98, 113

Grey garden, 98, 99,
plants for, 110

Grey plants, 4, 54, 63, 68, 74,
89, IIo

Grouping of plants, 121

Guelder Rose, 38, 53, 117

Gypsophila, 49, 56, 73, 75)
96, III

110;

H

HAMAMELIS, 145 ,

Hardy flower-border, main, 52
Heath, 8, 21, 94, 145; path, 19
Helenium pumilum, 62, 73

156

Helianthus, 57, 72, 88; in the
Gold garden, 109

Hellebores, Lent, 2, 6, 36

Heracleum, 47

Heuchera Richardsoni, 28, 31

Hidden Garden, 34, 38

Hill-side for planting, 40

Hollyhock, 54, 69, 72, 76, 111,
137

Honesty, 29

Honeysuckle, 19, 95, 120

Hydrangea, 58, 70, 89, 122,
125, 137; as tub plants, 132;
H. paniculata, 96

I
IBERIS, see Spring-garden
chapter, 53

Indian Pinks, 60

Ipomza Heavenly Blue, 119

Iris, stylosa, 4; dwarf, 31; Cen-
gialti, 36, 45; flag-leaved,
39, 45; pallida dalmatica,
45, 52, 62; Spanish, 45, 122;
foetidissima, 113; special
borders of, 45

Italian gardens, 121

J

JasMInum nudiflorum,
145

July flower-border, 61

June garden, 42; climbers in
June, 50

Juniper, 145

II9Q,

K

KALmIA, 93, 145
Kerria, 116

INDEX

L

LaBuURNuy, arch of, 89
Larkspur, Siberian, 66
Laurel, 146
Laurustinus, 52

Lavender, 40, 49, 75, 76;
dwarf, 66

Ledum palustre, 94

Lent Hellebores, 2, 6, 36,

145

Leycesteria formosa, 30, 144

Lilac, 38

Lilies, 37, 89, 110; in the grey
garden, 110; in pots, 122

Lilium auratum, 13, 58; cro-
ceum, 53; longiflorum, 58,
71, 75, 85, 89, 94, 96, IIo,
I13, 122, 134; giganteum,
31; candidum, 110, 112,
113,122; szovitzianum, 112

Lily of the Valley, 13, 95

Lithospermum, 28

Lobelias, 62, 69

London Pride, 36, 45

Loquat, 52

Love-in-a-Mist, 60

Lupines, 42, 45, 60, 112; tree
lupines, 48, 97, 112, 139;
as tub plants, 127

Luzula sylvatica, 93

Lychnis chalcedonica, 63; L.
Haageana, 63

Lyme Grass, 54, 70, 89

M

MAGNOLIA, 116; Conspicua, 4,
69; stellata, 5, 137

Maianthemum bifolium, 1g

Maiden’s Wreath, 122, 125

Maize, 53, 112

Mallows, 60

INDEX

Marigold, African, 53, 55, 60,
71, 85, 88, 89, Ior

May-blooming shrubs, 38

Meadowsweet, 45, 53, 62

Megasea, 96; in bulb-border,
6, 7; in spring garden, 24;
in pots, 122

Mentha rotundifolia, 85

Menziesia polifolia, 21

Michaelmas Daisies, 49, 57,
75, 89, 99, 137

Mertensia, 27

Monarda, 73

Mowing - machine, track of,
15

Mulberry, 137

Mulching the flower-border,
54

Mullein, 47, 60, 62

Myosotis, 27, 28, 30

Myrrhis, 24, 43, 114

Myrtle, 116

N

Narcissus, in bulb-border, 7

Nasturtiums, 54, 56, 60

Nepeta Mussini, with grey
plants, 49, III

Nut-walk, 141

oO

Cnothera lamarckiana, 1o1

Olearia Haastii, 76, 126, 139;
O. Gunni, 45, 96, 126, 137

Orchard, 140; wild orchard,
141

Orobus vernus, 29

Othonna, 40, 82

es
P

Paint for tubs, &c., 127

Pansy, Tufted, 36, 50

Papaver rupifragum, 46; P.
pilosum, 46; P. orientale,
46, 56

Paths, wood, 14

Pea, White Everlasting, 56,
61, 68, 75, III

Peaches, 136

Pears, 136

Pentstemons, 43, 60, 66, 69, 88

Peonies, 43, 44, 97, 137

Peony albiflora, 45

Peony, tree, 23, 29, 35; as tub
plants, 126

Perowskya, 76

Petunia, 53

Phlomis, 40, 89

Phlox divaricata, 28, 33, 35,
36; amoena, 29; stellaria,
33; Drummondi, 54, 60

Pictures, living, 5, I0; some
garden, 130

Planting in drifts, 16, 26

Plumbago capensis, 88, 112

Plume Celosias, 60

Poa aquatica, 113

Polygonum, 96

Pots, plants in, 121

Primrose Garden, 31

Privet, golden, 61, 68

Puschkinia, 6

Pyrethrum uliginosum, 90

Pyrus japonica, 4, 115, 116

Pyrus malus floribunda, 38

Q

QuaRRIES, desirable for plant-
ing, 120

158
R

REpD Dogwood, 142

Reed, 143

Reedmace, 143

Rhododendron, 3, 8, 13, 16,
93, 94, 145

Ribbon Grass, 113

Robinia, 69

Rocky hillside, planting for,
120 C

Rosa lucida, 31; altaica, 39;
Burnet Rose, 39; Fairy
Rose, 131

Rosemary, 40, 45, 49, 116

Roses, garden, 43, 44, 139;
with coloured bark, 141

“Roses for English Gardens ™
quoted, 65

Roses, rambling, 37, 44, 65,
86, 95, 120, 141

Rubus nutkanus, 13, 97; odor-
atus, 13; deliciosus, 31

Rudbeckia Golden Glow, 57,
72, 88

Rue, 54, 61, 62, 68, 74, 88,

112
Ruscus, 113

S

St. Bruno’s Lily, 36

Salvia patens, 66; splendens,
88

Santolina, 54, 64, 74, I10

Saponaria officinalis, 75, 11I |

Scillas, 6

Sea Kale, 54, 61, 68, 70

Sedum spectabile, 90; S. Tele-
phium, 85

Senecio artemisiefolius 62,
73

INDEX

September, Flower-border in,
87

Shrubbery edges, 92

Simplicity of aim, 9

Skimmia, 20, 113, 145

Smilacina, 19

Snapdragons 43, 51, 57, 60,
62, 66, 69, 75, 85, 89, 112

Solanum crispum, 50, 119;
jasminoides, 119

Solomon's Seal, 27, 36, 39

Special colouring, gardens of,
98

Spiderworts, 62, 69

Spirea Aruncus, 45, 46, 50, 97,
I12, 131; Lindleyana, 118

Spring Bitter Vetch, 29

Spring garden, 23

Stachys, 54, 74, 75, 89, II0;
lanata, 30, 78

Staking and supporting, 58

Stocks, 60

Stonecrops on iron roof, 59

Sunflower, sulphur, 54,
annual, 60

Sweet Cicely, 24, 43

Sweet Verbena, I19

T

TAMARISK, 95, I00, 139
Teucrium Scorodonia, 150
Thalictrum, 50, 62, 131
Thistle, Globe, 75
Thyme, wild, 135, 150
Tiarella, 26, 27, 39
Trachelium cceruleum, 54
Tradescantia virginica, 62
Training down tall plants, 57,
72, 87
Training plants one over
another, 56, 75, III

INDEX

Trientalis, 17
Trillium, 17, 94
Tritoma, 28, 87, 137
Tropzolums, 63
Tubs, plants for, 126
Tulips, 26, 27, 28, 29

U

UvuLaRIA, 27, 30, 40, 94, I14

Vv

VALERIAN, 50, 120

Veratrum, 24, 27

Verbascum, 47, 62, 69, 101

Veronica Traversi, 30; Vero-
nhicas as tub plants, 126

Vine, 49, I15, 116, 120, 136,
Claret, 69

Violas, 45

Ww

WALLFLOWER, 26, 27, 29
Wall shrubs, 69
Water Elder, 39

159

Weigela, 139

White Broom, 38, 39, 40, 95,
145

Whortleberry, 19, 20, 144

Wild gardening, 15

Willow Gentian, 14

Willows, 142

Winter colour, 142

Winter walk, 144

Witch Hazel, 145

“Wood and Garden” quoted,

13
Woodland, 9
Wood paths, 14; wood and
shrubbery edges, 92
Woodruff, 30, 36, 39
Wood-rush, Great, 93

Y
YeEw hedges, 23, 100
Yucca, 27, 28, 40, 53, 54, 63,

68, 83, 89, IIo, 112, 137;
raised borders for, 74

ZINNIAS, 60

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‘* Mr. Weaver’s book cannot but appeal to all sorts of readers of history,
military or civilian.”—The Times.

“Tt brings into a narrative always well digested and readable the story
of a brilliant succession of achievements in the field from the fifteenth ©
century onwards.”’—The Scotsman. :

‘*Mr. Lawrence Weaver writes with a contagious enthusiasm which is
fascinating. There is none of the usual ‘ stodginess’ of history in his
chapters. It is a long romance with veracious chronicle for its atmo-
sphere.”"— Western Daily Mercury.

THE STORY OF THE ROYAL WELSH FUSILIERS.
By H. AVRAY TIPPING, M.A., F.S.A.

Cloth, 9s. 5d. net; sheepskin, 15s. 8d. net; by post 6d. extra.

“The book should be scattered broadcast among the twenty battalions
that now compose the regiment ; and every man should be made to feel
how great is the heritage of glory which he has been admitted to share.”’
—The Times.

THE STORY OF THE KING’S (LIVERPOOL REGI-
MENT). By T. R. THRELFALL. With a Preface by the
Eart oF Dersy, K.G.

7s. 6d. net, in cloth; 13s. 2d. net, in sheepskin; by post 6d. extra.

“The author and Country Lire are to be congratulated on the
history of ‘The King’s Regiment,’ and the, book will be greatly valued,
especially in Lancashire.’"—Broad Arrow.

THE STORY OF THE MIDDLESEX REGIMENT.
By CHARLES LETHBRIDGE KINGSFORD, M.A., F.S.A.
9s. 5d, net, in cloth; 15s. 8d. net, in sheepskin; by post 6d. extra.

“This, the latest of the series of regimental histories published by
Country Lire, comes fully up to the level of its predecessors, and will
be welcomed by the ‘ Die-hards.’ . . . We hope that civilians as well as

soldiers will read Mr. Kingsford’s book, and try to understand what a
wonderful thing a great regiment can be.”—The Times.

8

The “Country Life”? Library

The “Country Life’ Series of Military Histories (cont.)

THE O.T.C. AND THE GREAT WAR. By ALAN R.
HAIG-BROWN. With an Introduction by Cor. Sir Epwarp
Warp, Bart., K.C.B., K.C.V.O., etc.

A full record of the foundation, organization and personnel of the
officers training corps.

gs. 8d. net, in cloth ; 15s. 8d. net, in sheepskin ; by post 6d. extra.

THE FIGHTING TERRITORIALS. By PERCY
URD.

Vol. I., 1s. 3d. net; by post, 1s. 7d. Vol. IL., 1s. 7a. net; by post, 1s. 11d.
THE LANCASHIRE TERRITORIALS. By GEORGE

BIGWOOD. With a Foreword by GENERAL S1R [AN HAMILTON.
and Edition, 1s, 11d. net; by post, 2s. 3d.

MEMORIALS AND MONUMENTS OLD AND NEW :
Two hundred subjects chosen from seven centuries.
By LAWRENCE WEAVER, F.S.A. With Collotype Repro-
ductions of 180 Photographs and 80 other illustrations.
Quarter bound, 15s. 8d. net ; by post, 16s. 6d.

In this book the whole art of memorial design is for the
first time examined in all its aspects—historical, critical and
practical. Most of the monuments of recent years, and
notably those which followed the South African War, reveal
a lamentable poverty of design, and the chief aim of the book
is to establish a better standard. To this end the develop-
ment of memorial design in England since the Middle Ages
is clearly set out, and all possible treatments of modern
memorials are discussed, with an exceeding wealth of illus-
tration. To all who contemplate setting up a memorial,
whether it be a small tablet to an individual or a monument
to a great body of men, this book offers essential guidance.

Morning Post—‘ This beautifully printed and well-illustrated volume
is at once a history and a plea—a history of memorials and monuments
drawn from seven centuries, and a plea for better workmanship and finer
taste than are generally shown in the stone and brasses set up in our
churches and other public places. Its arrival is opportune. It will not
be the author’s fault if the lapidary sequel of the great War is not better
than that of the South African Campaign. If architects and sculptors
will work together there is hope of better things, and here to hand in this
volume is description and illustration of 200 subjects, chosen from ex-
amples of the last 700 years, which they may study to the end of learning
the rules in proportion, in the use of materials, the spacing of lettering,
and the like. . . We agree with Mr. Weaver that our English ideas of
what is correct in memorials should be revised.” . ¢

The Times.—‘‘ To guide and help those who need guidance in these
matters.” : :

The Athenaum.—“' Many will be grateful for these timely and suggestive
pages . . . thoroughly well informed on the historical side of the ques-
tion . . . most catholic and soundly artistic in appreciation of certain
exceptionally good work of the twentieth century.”

9

The “ Country Life” Library

OUR COMMON SEA-BIRDS

CORMORANTS, TERNS, GULLS, SKUAS, PETRELS, AND AUKS

By PERCY R. LOWE, B.A., M.B., B.C.

With Chapters by BENTLEY BrETHaM, Francis HEATHERLEY, W. R.
Ocitviz-GRANT, OLIVER G. Prxe, W. P. Pycrart, A. J. Roperts, etc.

Large quarto, cloth, gilt, with over 300 pages and nearly
250 illustrations. 18s. od. net. Post free (inland), 19s. 6d.

Unlike the majority of books dealing with birds, this volume
is of interest to the general reader and to the student of
ornithology alike.

It is a book that enables the reader to identify our Sea-
birds by name, to understand their movements, their habits,
their nests and their eggs.

The Observer says:—‘‘ We marvel at the snapshots that have been
taken of birds. Every movement of their flight is now recorded; the
taking off, the alighting, the swooping, the settling, the ‘ planing,’ the
struggling against the wind. And they are just the birds which the

ordinary man wants to know about, because he has such opportunities of
seeing them for himself on any walk along the cliff.”

THE PEREGRINE FALCON

AT THE EYRIE
By FRANCIS HEATHERLEY, F.R.C.S.

Illustrated with wonderful photographs by the AutHor and C. J. Kine.

Demy quarto, cloth, gilt, 6s. 3d. net; by inland post, 6s. 9d.

This fascinating book on the Peregrine Falcon—the grandest
bird of prey left in England—combines the salient facts of
almost innumerable field notes written at the eyrie itself. It
is a book that should appeal with irresistible force to all true
nature lovers. Many striking and unexpected facts were
revealed to the author as a result of unwearying patience
in a diminutive hut slung from the precipice of a lonely islet.
These records are now set forth in a wonderful narrative which
discloses the life history of the Peregrine Falcon from the
moment of its hatching to the day it finally leaves the eyrie.

The Times says:—‘‘ We commend this faithful and truly scientific

inquiry to all lovers of animals and to those who are in quest of a real
inowledge of nature.”’

10

The “ Country Life” Library

Pastime with Good Company
Pictured by G. D. ARMOUR

With an Introduction by Horace G. HutTcHINson

Royal quarto, tastefully bound gilt, 18s.9d. net; by inland post, 19s. 6d.

CONTAINING OVER FIFTY CHOICE PLATES,

THOROUGHLY TYPICAL OF MR. ARMOUR’S ART

This volume is sure of a warm welcome from every Sports-
man and Sportswoman of to-day. In the beautiful picture
gallery disclosed through its pages, Mr. Armour presents a
wonderfully representative collection of his art. Whether
it is the field in ‘‘ full cry,’’ the grouse coming over the heather,
the polo player dashing towards the goal, or the otter hound
surging through the rapids, all are portrayed with individu-
ality and fidelity, by means which have the appealing merit
of simplicity and directness. The plates are perfect speci-
mens of pictorial art. Each one deserves, and, indeed, de-

mands, a frame.
‘*A book for every sportsman’s library.’’—Liverpool Courier.

Fishing
Edited by HORACE G. HUTCHINSON
“ In 2 volumes, each 15s. 8d. net; by post, 16s. 6d.
The Fishing Gazette says:—‘‘I know pretty well every book in our
dJanguage, and in French and German, on the subject of fishing, but I

know no work which is so good, comprehensive and cheap as this. Would
be worth buying if it were merely for the illustrations.”

Animal Life by the Sea-Shore

By G. A. BOULENGER, LL.D., D.Sc., Ph.D., F.R.S., and
C. L. BOULENGER, M.A., D.Sc.

An indispénsable handbook to all who wish to increase their

knowledge of the habits and life-histories of the wonderful

creatures which are to be found on our sea-shores. Nearly

too illustrations. Large 8vo. 6s. 3d. net; by post, 6s. 7d.

The Yorkshire Observer says :—‘‘ Such a book was sorely needed, for
almost all the works of a popular character dealing with shore life are
sadly out of date.’’

The Horse and the War

By Captain SIDNEY GALTREY
Beautifully illustrated by Captain LIONEL EDWARDS, with
a note specially contributed by Field-Marshal Sir DOUGLAS
HAIG, K.T., G.C.B., etc.
Crown quarto, 6s. net; by post, 6s. 6d. In special binding,
tos. 6d. net; by post, IIs.

“ Few of us realize the debt we owe to the horse and the mule and to
the men who fitted them for their task. In any survey of the thousand
wonders of the last four years this book must take a place.”—Glasgow
Herald. ii

The “ Country Life” Library

The Increased Productivity Series

PAYNTER’S SYSTEM OF POULTRY REARING; or
£500 a Year from Hens
By F.G. PayNnTER. An invaluable book for all poultry keepers.
Crown 8vn. Illustrated. 5s. net. By post, 5s. 6d.

THE FLEMISH SYSTEM OF POULTRY REARING
By MapamMeE Jasper. Illustvated. 4s. 5d. net. By post,
4s. 9d.

“A book which all who keep poultry ought to read.”—Liverpool Post.

OUR FOOD SUPPLY; Perils and Remedies
By CHRISTOPHER TURNOR. 35. 2d. net. By post, 3s. 6d.
“ We can heartily commend this practical book to landholders and farmers.” —.

Spectator.
THE MANUAL OF MANURES
By HENRY VENDELMANS. Crown 8vo. 45. 5d. net. By post,
4s. gd.
“We heartily comm:nd the book.”’—Scottish Farmer.

RECLAIMING THE WASTE; Britain’s Most Urgent
Problem
By P. ANDERSON GRAHAM. 45. 5d. net. By post, 4s. gd.
“The book deserves to be widely read.’'"—Glasgow Herald.

PROFITABLE HERB GROWING AND COLLECTING
By Ava B. TEETGEN. Illustrated. 5s. met. By post,
5s. 6d.

“A practical handbook, well suited to assist a profitable industry, which has.
largely lapsed to Germany.”—Times.

FIRST ADVICE TO WOULD-BE FARMERS.

The book for the Allotment Holders and Small Holders. By

F,E.GREEN. 5s. net. By post, 5s. 6d.

FARM RECORDS AND THE PRODUCTION OF CLEAN
MILK AT MOUNDSMERE

By WILFRED BUCKLEY, Director of Milk Supplies, Ministry of

Food. With an Introduction by the Hon. WALDORF ASTOR,

M.P. Medium quarto with eighteen full-page Illustrations and

many invaluable Charts and Records, bound in buckvam, gili
top. i5s. net. By post, 6d. extra.

ECONOMIES IN DAIRY .FARMING
An important Work on Dairying, by ERNEST MATHEWS (the well-
known Judge and Expert). gs. 5d. net. By post, gs. 11d.

MY WOOD FIRES AND THEIR STORY
By W. Rozinson, Author of “ The English Flower Garden.”
Showing the beauty and use of the wood five. The way to secure
good draught and combustion. The native woods best for fuel.
Me abolition cf the fender, and the economy and value of wood as
tuel, With 16 full-page Illustrations and Index. Large quarto.
6s. 3d. net By post, 6s. od.

12

The “ Country Life”? Library

RABBITS FOR FUR AND FLESH

By C. J. Davizs. Illustrated. 6s. net; by post, 6s. 6d. A
practical and up-to-date treatise on the Hutch Rabbit-Breeding
Industry.

In this important volume the Author convincingly proves that if rabbits
-are correctly fed, they can be reared to a larger size and at a much lower
‘cost than by the old-fashioned methods; that it is easily possible to
combine the breeding of exhibition and utility specimens; that there are
other varieties and more useful breeds than those with which most English
breeders are acquainted, and many matters of which numerous fanciers
appear to be totally ignorant.

RUNNER DUCKS

By E. A. Taytor. Illustrated. 35.6d. net; by post,3s.t1d. A
practical and highly-instructive book on the new type of Duck
for Egg Production. Novel and revolutionary ideas for the
production of Land-Duck Eggs in large quantities. 250 eggs
per duck annually.

The ‘‘ Country Life ” Library of Verse

THE ‘“‘COUNTRY LIFE’? ANTHOLOGY OF VERSE
Edited by P. ANDERSON GRAHAM. Overy 200 pages. Cloth,
6s. 3d. net; sheepskin, 8s. 6d. net; by post, 5d. extra.

“ There is something very fresh and fragrant about this Anthology.” —Western Datly
Mercury.

“A book which every lover of poetry should buy.”—The Teachers’ World.

“All the pieces are of a high standard of excellence, and many of them are poetic
gems of the first water.”’—Glasgow Herald.

POEMS
By Dorotuy Frances Gurney. Daintily bound. 6s. 3d.
net; by post, 6s. 8d.

“‘Mrs. Gurney has the gift of song.”—The Times.

THE LITTLE BOOK OF QUIET
By DorotHy FRANCES GURNEY. 35. 2d. net; by post, 35. 6d.

“Many of the verses are worthy of Christina Rossetti."—Western Morning News.

SONGS OF A DAY.
By IsaBEL BuTcHaRT, 35. 2d. net; by post, 3s. 6d.

“ Polished little cameos of verse.’—The Times.

MORE SONGS OF ANGUS
By Viotet Jacos. 35s. 6d. net; by post, 35. 10d. .
“To give excerpts from these poems . . . is like pulling roses to pieces to find the
choicest petal.” —Morning Post.
13

The “ Country Life” Library

“Country Life” Library of Garden Books

-GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS
(A Handbook to the Garden.) By E. T. Coox. Coloured plates
and ovey 200 illustrations, plans and diagrams from photographs:
of selected specimens of Plants, Flowers, Tvees, Shrubs, Fruits,
etc. Sixth Edition. 15s. Bd. net. By post, 16s. 6d.

“One cannot speak in too high praise of the idea that led Mr. E. T. Cook to
compile this GARDENING ror Brecinners, and of the completeness and succinct-
ness with which the idea has been carried out, Nothing is omitted. . It
is a book that will be welcomed with enthusiasm in the world of gardeners.” —
Morning Post.

WALL AND WATER GARDENS

With Chapters on the Rock Garden, the Heath Garden and the
Paved Water Garden. 5th Edition. Revised and Enlarged. By
GERTRUDE JEKYLL. Containing instructions and hints on the
cultivation of suitable plants on-dry walls, rock walls, in streams,
marsh pools, lakes, ponds, tanks and water margins. With 200
illustvations. Large 8vo, 220 pages. 15s. 8d. net. By post,
16s. 5d.

“ He who will consent to follow Miss Jekyll] aright will find that under her guid-
ance the old walls, the stone steps, the rockeries, the ponds, or streamlets of his
garden will presently blossom with all kinds of flowers undreamed of, and become
marvels of varied foliage.”—Times.

CHILDREN AND GARDENS
By GERTRUDE JEKYLL. A garden book for children, treating not
only of their own litile gardens and other outdoor occupations, but
also of the many amusing and interesting things that occuy in and
about the larger home garden and near grounds. Thoroughly
practical and full of pictures. 7s. 6d. net. By post, 8s.

‘‘ Little bits of botany, quaint drawings of all kinds of things, pretty pictures,
rem. and am’ ts—why, it is a veritable ‘Swiss Family Robinson ”
for the bairns, and we shall be surprised and disappointed if it is not introduced
into many hundreds of homes.”—Liverpool Post.

TREES AND SHRUBS FOR ENGLISH GARDENS
By E. T. Coox. 15s. 8d. net. By post, 16s. 54.

“It contains a mass of instruction and illustration not always to be found alto-
gether when required, and as such it will be very useful as a popular hand-book
for amateurs and others anxious to grow trees and shrubs.’’—Freld.

MY GARDEN
By Epen PHILLPoTTs. 207 pages. 60 full-page illustrations.
7s. 6d, net. By post, 8s.

“It is a thoroughly practical book, addressed especially to those who, like him™
self, have about an acre of flower garden, and are willing and competent to help a
gardener to make it as rich, as harmonious, and as enduring as possible. His chap-
ters on irises are particularly good.””—World.

ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS
The best Annual and Biennial Plants and their uses in the Garden.
By GERTRUDE JEKYLL. With cultural notes by E.H. JENKINS.
Illustrated throughout. 9s. 5d. net. By post, gs. 114.
‘A noteworthy addition to the special literature of the garden.”—The Scotsman.

14

The “ Country Life” Library

‘Country Life” Library of Garden Books (cont).

THE DISEASES OF TREES
By Proressor R. Hartic. Royal 8vo. 13s. 2d. net. By
post, 13s. 6d.

SEASIDE PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS
By ALFRED Gaut, F.R.H.S. Ax interesting and instructive book
dealing with a phase of arboriculture hitherto not touched upon.
It is profusély illustrated, and diagrams are given explaining
certain details. 6s. 3d. net. By post, 6s. od.

“Mr. Gaut has accomplished a piece of very solid and extremely useful work,.

and one that may not be without considerable influence upon the future develop-
ment of coast-side gardea work and agriculture.”—Liverpool Courier.

THE BOOK OF BRITISH FERNS
By Cuas, T. Druery, F.L.S., V.M.H., President of the British
Pteridological Society. 4s. 5d. net. By post, 4s. od.
“ The book is well and lucidly written and arranged ; it is altogether beautifully
got up. Mr. Druery has long been recognized as an authority on the subject.”—
St. James’s Gazette.

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK
By E. H. Jenkins. A complete and trustworthy guide to all who
ave desirous of adding to theiy knowledge of the best means of
planting and cultivating hardy flowers. Large Crown 8vo, 50
illustrations and coloured frontispiece. 2nd Edition. 3s. 2d. net.
By post, 3s. 6d.
“The amateur gardener who covets success should read ‘ The Hardy Flower
Book.’ ”"—Daily Mail.
GARDENING MADE EASY
By E. T. Coox. An instructive and practical gardening book of
200 pages and 23 illustvations. is. 11d. net. Cloth, 2s. 6d.
net. Postage, 3d. extra.
“The A.B.C. of Gardening.”—Scotsman.
ROSE GROWING MADE EASY
By E.T.Coox. A simple Rose Guide for amateurs, freely illus-
trated with diagrams showing ways of increasing, pruning and
protecting voses. 1s. 3d. net. Cloth, 2s. net. Postage, 3d. extra.
“. , , Ought to be in the hands of every rose grower.’”—Aberdeen Free Press.
FRUIT GROWING FOR BEGINNERS.
A simple and concise handbook on the cultivation of Fruit. By
F. W. Harvey. 1s. 3d. net. Cloth, 2s. net. Postage, 3d-

extra.
*« An amazing amount of information is packed: into this book.”"—Evening News.

CAUSERIES ON ENGLISH PEWTER
By ANTONIO DE Navarro. Treats of Old Pewter, Pewter Church
Plate, Evolution of the Tankard, The Trencher and its Uses,
Church Flagons, Chalices, Patens, Forks, Salts, Spoons and the
Custody of Pewter. Quarto. Price 13s. 2d. net. By inland
post, 13s. 9d.

THE FIRST AND CHIEF GROUNDES OF ARCHITECTURE
By JouNn SHUTE, 1563, with an historical and critical introduction
by LawRENCE WEAVER. Facsimile edition, limited to 1000
numbered copies of this vave and important work, the first book
on avrchitectuve published in England. Folio, half-bound in
sheepskin. 18s. gd. net. ie a igs. 4d.

The “ Country Life” Library

PHOTOGRAPHY FOR BEGINNERS
An instructive and practical book, worded clearly but non-scientific-
ally for the tyro camera user. 1s.3d.net. Cloth, 2s.net. Postage,
3d. extra.

FRENCH HOUSEHOLD COOKING
By Mrs, FRANCES KEYZER. Shows how simple and inexpensive
ts the art of cooking as the French understand it. 2s. net. Cloth,
2s, 6d. net. Postage, 3d. extra.

“Mrs. Keyzer’s manual has become one that no housekeeper’s library ought
to be without.”—Daily Mail. .

VEGETABLE GROWING
By HERBERT,COWLEY (Editor of ‘‘ The Garden’’). 2nd Impres-
ston. god. net. By post, 11d.

RABBIT KEEPING
By C. J. Davies. 6th Impression. od. net. By post, 114.

GOAT-KEEPING
By C. J. Davies. od. net. By post, 114.

PIG-KEEPING
By C. J. Davies. od. net. By post, 11d.

BEE-KEEPING
By W. HERRop HEmpsatt, F.E.S. (Editor of ‘‘ The British Bee
Journal’’). od. net. By post, 11d.

POULTRY-KEEPING

Cheap Daily Menus for Fowls. By Witt Hootey, F.Z.S.
od. net. By post, 11d.

STORING VEGETABLES AND FRUITS

With Chapters on Drying in the Oven and by the: Kitchen Fire.
By HERBERT Cowley. od. net. By post, 11d.

HOME-MADE PICKLES AND PRESERVES
Garnishings, Flavourings, Home Brewed Wines, etc. Recipes
New and Old. Collected by ANNE AMATEUR. 9d. net. By
post, 114. : oe

FRUIT BOTTLING AND PRESERVING
Practical and Homely Recipes. By Mrs, EpWwIn BECKETT.
od. net. By post, 11d.

PRACTICAL CAVY KEEPING
With a Chapter on the Profitable Breeding of Fancy Mice. By
J. T. Brrp. od. net. By post, 11d.

LAWN TENNIS HINTS
By F. R, Burrow. od. net. By post, 11d.

16