Full text of "Hogology. Pt. 1. Suggestions and better methods of profitably bringing Mr. Pig from farrowing to market, moulded into a readable story. Pt. 2. One hundred and one fully illustrated descriptions of hog-lot devices and accessories that are in practical use on different hog farms in the United States"

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Hogology.

3 1924 003 128 497

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HOGOLOGY

PARTI

Suggestions and Better Methods of Profitably Bringing

Mr. Pig From Farrowing to Market, Moulded

Into a Readable Story

WRITTEN BY

ROBT J. EVANS

Secretary of the American Duroc Jersey Swine Breeders' Association and
Vice-President of the National Swine Growers' Association

PART II

One Hundred and One Fully Illustrated Descriptions of Hog-Lot

Devices and Accessories That Are in Practical Use on

Different Hog Farms in the United States

PUBLISHED BY

THE JAMES J. DOTY PUBLISHING CO.

(Duroc Bulletin) (Swine World)

39S'

5^z

326070

PART I

THE HOG

From Breeding Time
to the Butcher's Knife

— ■■•^HM^— ■■—

Introduction

There is no meat-making animal on the American farm
that matures so quickly or multiplies so rapidly as the hog.
There is no meat-producing business into which one can
embark so cheaply and which brings returns so quickly and
continuously as the growing of hogs. There is no branch
of livestock farming that offers such inducements at the
present time as does that of producing pork.

The best posted statisticians are authority for the state-
ment that never again in the history of the world will pork
be cheap. It is the poor man's meat, and as the martyred
Lincoln said: "God made more of them than any other
class." We have been living from hand to mouth as con-
cerns our meat, and the man who increases the supply of
pork not only builds a business and establishes an income
for himself and those dependent upon him, but at the same
time is a benefactor to his race.

Not all the vexatious and ever-increasing questions
about how to grow pork are answered in this little volume,
but recorded here in a story, a season's work with hogs, are
the experiences of many successful hog men, not in their
own words, but combined into a brief 12 months, as the
writer saw them worked out on the more than 500 hog
farms which he has visited in the past quarter of a century.
If the perusal of this little book will answer only one ques-
tion, or help only one of the many thousand merf in pork-
growing, the writer will feel more than repaid for transcrib-
ing these experiences of successful pork growers to the
printed pages of Part I of this book.

RoBT. J. Evans.

HOGOLOGY

A Vast Industry

We believe there are but few men
connected with the hog-growing in-
dustry of the United States who
realize its vast importance and what
it represents, not only in dollars and
cents, buf in the comparative values
to the millions of people in foreign
countries as well as in our own that
depend upon the American hog prod-
ucts for their consumption. Very
close to one-half of the total value in
dollars and cents of the meat and
meat products slaughtered in the
abattoirs of the United States, is de-
rived from the hog. Three-fourths
of the world's international trade in
pork and pork products originates in
normal times in this great country of
ours and war time greatly increases
this per cent. The department of
agriculture is authority for the state-
ment that if we expect to provide
meat to foreign peoples, as well as
our own, every farmer must put forth
his best effort to produce more and
better hogs. (The government states
at this writing that the United States
is exporting two hundred millions
pounds of pork, per month, to Europe
and sixty million pounds of beef.)

For years this country depended
upon the cattle range for its meat,
but these ranges have passed away
and pork, from now on, will be the
main meat consumed by the working
class of this nation as well as of the
nations of the earth.

When we consider that this animal,
the lard hog of today, represented by
three or four outstanding breeds, has
been perfected and is American-bred
and American-improved and an Amer-
ican institution pure and simple, we
can realize how much the hog inter-
est means to the people of this nation.

More Important Than Cattle Industry
Livestock men and livestock inter-
ests generally are wont to give what

we feel is undue consideration to the
cattle business and the cattle inter-
ests, when the dollars invested and
the amount realized from the sale of
the two at the market show such a
little difference. Hog-growing in the
majority of cases has made cattle
feeding pay its way. Hog marketing
has paid off the mortgage, has in-
creased the value of the land, paid the
farms' running expenses and paid for
untold necessities and luxuries for the
American people. The most produc-
tive farms in this land of ours today
are the farms where a continued sys-
tem of hog feeding has been carried
on year after year. The hog returns
more fertilizer to the land than any
other meat-producing animal on the
farm, and run-down farms and lands
with thin soil can be built up and be
made productive through hog-grow-
ing operations, the owner securing his
profit from the hogs during the build-
ing process.

As it became necessary to till our
fields with up-to-date machinery, and
farm more economically on account
of the ever-increasing price of land,
so it has become necessary for us to
use a modern machine to grow our
pork. Such an "implement" is the
purebred hog, and he has been,
through many generations and many
decades, bred up and improved until
he can convert mpre grain and grass
into pounds of pork than the common
hog of yesterday. The improved hog
is not an animal that can live on less,
but one that can consume more and
convert a greater per cent of that
increased quantity into the commer-
cial article, pork. The hog makes
greater gains per hundred pounds of
concentrates than any other domes-
tic animal. He has no rival in con-
suming by-products, nor in his fat-
storing characteristics, and these

Nine

HOGOLOGY

qualities have been increased in the
improved hog.

Many Ways for Profit

There are so many ways in which
profit has been and is being made
with hogs on the farms, ranches and
plantations of our country, that the
great wonder is and has been for
years why any farmer, whether he
be farming only a forty-acre farm
or one embracing many sections,
should leave out of his plans and
farming operations an animal that
makes good in so many ways. Hogs
fit into the modern scheme of farming
on every farm and from every stand-
point and are the best animal for the
two-fold purpose of raising meat and
money. Hog growing requires less
preparation, less expense, less equip-
ment and less capital than any other
branch of livestock raising, and the
capital can be turned into cash more
often in the year than in any other
line of farming. As a follower of a
bunch of feeding cattle he has often
made the only profit the cattle feed-
ers realized and has made it possible
for these feeders to continue their
business year after year, when the
price at the market and the price of
feed at the feeding boxes were all
out of proportion. While we believe
that a man can take hogs at the
present prices of feed (hogs at 17 and
ground feed ranging from $40 to $55
per ton) and market and make money
out of the transaction, yet in order
to profit from_ hog growing year in
and year out, it is necessary that the
hog-grower reduce the cost of pro-
duction as much as possible by per-
manent pasture and continuous for-
age crops. The hog is not a forage
animal, but pork produced by forage
and concentrate supplements is the
most profitable the grower can mar-
ket.

Hogs and Good Farming Go Hand in
Hand

There are several questions to be
considered when one contemplates

entering into the hog business. Lo-
cation, breed, size of herd to begin
with; whether we shall aim to pro-
duce breeding stock or grow entirely
for the pork barrel. A combination
of tlie two, selling a few good boars
and choice gilts to farmers and feed-
ers, and feeding the others out for the
market, having first selected our breed-
ing stock for the coming year, offers
the best and quickest and surest
money income from hogs. Nine-
tenths of the men who are known as
purebred swine breeders throughout
the United States would have more
money at the end of each year if they
had never attempted public sales of
seed stock, but put their time on the
marketing proposition. Ho^ builders,
like poets are born, not made, and it
falls to the fortune of but compara-
tively few men to have inherited the
requisites of a constructive breeder of
live stock. Such work must fall to
these few and it is a pioneer's work.
It is less likely to result in an accu-
mulated competence than if the less
risky plan of feeding for market is
followed. But there is a fascination
about the work of breed building that
holds the breeder to his tedious task,
and many have persisted in their
work, and failed in receiving remu-
neration commensurate with the cost
of continuing, but felt a pride in the
far-reaching results that they knew
would come from even slight im-
provement of the breed with which
their life work seemed to be aligned.
We believe many men have gone into
the business with absolutely no prep-
aration, not any intelligent thought.
This is as foolish as spending too,
much money for buildings and seed
stock. There is a happy medium in
this as in other enterprises and the
wise man adopts this middle path,
building and buying only the neces-
sary equipments and seed stock, pay-
ing high prices if need be for prop-
erly bred animals.

In_ these days of intensive living
and intensive production, the man who

Ten

PART I

spends his time and money in pro-
ducing pork from scrub hogs is worse
than a farmer who would use the
crooked stick plow of the Oriental
farmer on his modern farm in the
corn belt. Cross-breeding of two or
more breeds of pure bred hogs has
been said to produce better feeders
than pure breds of any certain breed,
but there are no well founded facts
or figures on which to base these as-
sertions.

The pure bred hog of a particular
breed comes to the market in car-
loads of even color, conformation and
common characteristics. These are
the loads that bring the top prices.
The smoothness, color and conforma-
tion have been stamped upon the
pure bred and bred into his blood
lines until he reproduces regularly
and evenly and from such breeding
stock comes the high priced hogs of
each day's receipts at the market cen-
ters if they come to the lots properly
bred and developed.

Whether you engage in the busi-
ness for pork growing alone, a busi-
ness which is probably the_ most
profitable on the least expensive in-
vestment, and which has netted the
farmers of our country more dollars
than any one branch of live stock
business known today, or whether
you enter the profession of supplying
seed stock to the farmer and feeder,
the next largest branch of the hog
business, you are sure of more and
steadier profit than from any of your
farm operations, investment, time and
labor considered.- While_ the two
branches of the hog business men-
tioned above, pork growing and sup-
plying the seed stock represent more
than 90% of those engaged in the hog
business, yet there is a small percent
of hog growers who are not only
making good ptofit, but are enjoying
a bounteous income from the sale of
home-grown and home-cured meats,
home-made sausage, and other prod-
ucts. The advantages of this Jatter
method of money from hogs is the

steady returns, quickness of profit,
and the ability to turn small capital
several times a year. While only a
few locations are adapted to carrying
on large enterprises of this latter
method of turning pork to profit,
there is scarcely a county in the
United States but which some part
can be readily adapted to producing
pork.

Small Capital Sometimes a Blessing

There are a good many ways of
going into the hog business, all of
them easy enough if sufficient cap-
ital is at hand, but the great army
of people who will do the best with
hogs and make the most money, are
short on the one thing that makes
beginning easy — capital. This might
seem a serious handicap, but it us-
ually proves a blessing. One will go
in by degrees, will not start with so
many head as if capital were ready
at hand. Thus experience is gained as
you go along and you also gain con-
fidence and learn the ways of buying
and the right kind to buy and you
have less to undo.

If you start in the spring two or
■three brood sows due to farrow in
late March or April producing litters
from good big boned, well bred boars,
will be enough foundation, but if the
fall of the year is chosen, a half
dozen gilts eight or nine months old
of same general type, and a boar,
either a pig or a yearling. A good
thrifty March pig will be old enough
to mate to these in November, for the
next spring farrow. Don't get the
notion that you can't start with a
less number than mentioned. One
good sow in the spring or a trio in
fall, two gilts and a boar, might be
enough. _ This will depend on your
preparation for feeding and housing.

Care Thru Gestation Period

In buying bred sows be sure to find
out how they have been fed and cared
for; be sure that they are not too fat
and that they have not been fatted on

Eleven

HOGOLOGY

too much corn or heating feed. Get
them from sires and dams of good
size and good breeding. A "pedi-
greed scrub" is a curse to any man
in the hog business. After these
sows reach your place give them
proper care and housing. It is a
trying time for the dam for she is
not only laying in a supply of flesh
to help furnish milk to her future lit-
ter, but is building the frame of the
pigs in that litter. Good concen-
trated feed, plenty of exercise, pure
water is necessary and the extra care
will be more than doubly repaid in
the coming litter. Too much corn
makes weak litters and unsatisfactory
results. Separated milk is a very good
feed for the sow during gestation as
it will encourage milk secretion. The
best rations for the sow during the
winter months is slop made of equal
parts of ground oats and wheat mid-
dlings and a small quantity of corn
ground with the other two grains. If
the weather remains severe for any
length of time the corn can be in-
creased for it will assist in k;eeping
up the heat. Constipation must be
avoided. It is well to have the feed-
ing pen a good ways from the sleep-
ing quarters so the sows will get ex-
ercise in going back and forth. As
farrowing time approaches keep the
bowels regular by using a half pound
of oil meal daily.

Warm quarters in which the sows
can farrow must be provided. Later
on an individual cot such as shown
elsewhere in this book is all that is
needed, but at farrowing time, espe-
cially in our colder climates, a box
stall in the barn or a community
house with farrowing pens is needed.
Look out for cold draughts on the
young pigs. It takes a mighty little
sudden change to knock Mr. Pig out
in his first day or so.

At least twenty-four hours prior to
farrowing time the sow's feed must be
cut down to a little thin slop. Give
only fresh water for at least two days
after farrowing. Many good sows

and money-making litters have been
ruined by the false notion that the
sow needs feed as soon as she is done
farrowing. Nature has been prepar-
ing for this period and has stored up
feed in her system in just such a form
as is needed by the mother and off-
spring.

Attention at Farrowing Time

How essential it is to buy from ab-
solutely reliable breeders will be
thoroughly realized by the new hog
man if sows farrow before time desig-
nated by the seller. You may be off
your guard and the whole litter be
lost. Continual attention at farrow-
ing time pays a hundred fold. If the
weather is very chilly, take each pig
away from the sow as soon as far-
rowed and put in a basket or bucket,
having placed in the bottom of it a
jug of warm water or a hot brick
with a piece of blanket over it. Keep
them here until the sow is through
farrowing and then let them get their
first meal. If you can get them filled
with the first draught of the life-sus-
taining fluid of the young mother,
your battle is half won. Put them
back in the basket especially if the
weather stays cold or the sow is rest-
less. Let them suckle every two
hours night and day. You may need
your sleep, but if you want full profits
out of the sow and litter you can
well afford to invest in an alarm clock
and attend to your duties as wet nurse
bi-hourly the first and second nights
at least.

Wherever you have the sow farrow
provide good bedding, not a big lot
of straw, but pine shavings if possible
or chopped straw. If too much bed-
ding is given the pigs get lost and
the sow will trample them. Also pro-
vide stall or pen with guards, 2 by 4s,
supported eight inches from the floor
of farrowing pen and six or eight
inches from the wall. Instead of lay-
ing against the wall of the pen and
squeezing the life out of her offspring,
her body is held away from the wall

Twelve

PART I

by these 8 by 4s and the youngest can
get behind the guard, and you will
see them crawling around as lively
as ever towards the "dinner side" of
the mother.

Close watch of the sow's action will
be sufficient indication as to when you
can safely trust her with the entire
care of her new family and it is some
care. A doctor, a nurse, and the
whole family (no matter how many
it contains) and often nearly all the
neighbor's family are necessary to get
one little human baby started half
right on his journey through life, yet
we expect the dumb brute of a sow
to care for from eight to a dozen
without half the attention of one per-
son. If she fails we not only curse
her, but the whole porcine race.
(Don't come to the conclusion from
this statement that I am comparing
the value of one little helpless new
human to that of a new family of
pigs. Nothing of the kind. But if
we are going to do a thing, let's give
it our best attention.)

Caution Needed After Sow Has
Farrowed

Trouble after farrowing time with
the sow or with the litter comes from
one or more of three things: wet bed-
ding, too much feed and cold
draughts. The first will make sore
teats, put the sow out of condition,
chill her, chill the pigs and often
makes the tails of the pigs sore. Over
feed causes fever in the sow's udder
and gives the pigs scours^ a disease
often hard to check and a complaint
that often undoes all you have done.
Cold draughts start pneumonia, a dis-
ease easily contracted by the hog.
Don't get the sow into full feed until
the pigs are at least a week old, ten
days is better. Keep her on , thin
middling slop, possibly an ear of corn
and some pure water, increasing the
consistency of the slop each day, un-
til at the end of the period you have
her relishing a full meal of thick slop.

At birth, pigs have four very sharp

teeth wiiich often give the dam and
their litter mates a lot of trouble.
Take a pair of nippers and pinch
these off. If you pick up Master
Piggy by the neck and force his
mouth open these will easily be seen
and easily nipped off. Do not pull
them. This often saves the udder and
the sore mouths of the pigs, for it is
these' sharp teeth that they use in
fighting each other away from a teat.
It won't be many days after far-
rowing time until the sow and pigs
must be out somewhere to get exer-
cise. The single house now comes
into play and no matter if the weather
is a little cold, a cot set facing south
and protected by straw, fodder or
blankets, will prove sufficient protec-
tion, unless you live in the North or
north central part of the corn belt,
and select early March or late Feb-
ruary for farrowing. These dates
should be entirely avoided by the be-
ginner unless he is amply equipped
with modern steam or stove-heated
community houses and often then the
loss of pigs cuts the profit to almost
nothing.

Get Sow on Green Diet

Have the houses or cots in half or
one-acre lots where some green stuff
will be growing by the time the pigs
are old enough to get out and follow
the mother. Oats, rye or barley, blue
grass or clover patches. Alfalfa is
still better. The earlier the sow can
be put onto a partial green diet the
faster she will bring her litter. There
is little danger of scours in the pigs
from this green feed. It more often
comes from ground or condensed
feed, or sudden changes of feed.

Every day after the pigs are two
days old, they should be forced to
exercise, even if you have to gather
them in a basket and dump them out
in the barn driveway. Exercise and
sunshine spell success with pigs.
These are the two great reasons we
advise the new man to shun early
farrowing- dates.

Thirteen

HOGOLOGY

If the pigs do not seem to be thriv-
ing, look for the cause. Occasionally
a good looking, thrifty appearing sow
fails to produce enough milk. If
other conditions are right, increase
her feed faster than advised above.
Shorts or middlings mixed with sep-
arated milk will help. For the first
four weeks, all crowding of the
growth of the pigs must be done by
extra good care and feed for the sow.
Feed her milk producing feeds, mid-
dlings, shorts, or Red-dog flour.
Twenty pounds of shorts with ten of
cornmeal and the same of bran with
3J^ parts of tankage, makes a good
mixture.

Com Not a Good Single Diet

Let me say here that corn is the
standard hog feed in any climate and
we believe that much of the disease
that attacks the herd comes from in-
digestion caused by something for-
eign in the mill feeds bought today.
But corn as a single diet is out of the
question with the brood sow while
carrying her litter or nui-sing the lit-
ter. If the sow has farrowed at a
time that will allow her to be out
on some green growing crop, when
the pigs are about ten days old, your
feeding proposition will be greatly
simplified, for the pigs will soon help
themselves and the sow will produce
more milk from the right kind of for-
age than from dry feed. Winter rye,
oats or barley will answer the pur-
pose and I believe a two-fold object
will be accomplished if every brood
sow lot is plowed up in the fall and
sown in rye or other small grain.
The pens and runs will be made more
sanitary and the sow will have forage
when she needs it the worst. Blue
grass will help some, but is late in
starting in northern pastures.

One other thing must be avoided
in unweaned pigs and that is
"thumps." This disease comes from
too little exercise and sunshine and
too much feed. Cut the sow's feed
at once and see that the pigs take

exercise regularly. Dust in pen causes
bad cough, but we find no record of
it causing thumps. Thumps are
caused by too much fat around the
heart and only a diet and exercise
will cure it.

Feed the Yoimg Pigs

At about three weeks of age the
pigs ought to be fed a little by them-
selves. Many good breeders continue
to feed big and little together, but
we are absolutely sure that the extra
care it takes to have a little run where
the pigs can eat a little thin slop or
pick up shelled corn scattered around,
will more than repay and they will do
much better and remain more even in
growth. Soak the shelled corn if you
will, but I always thought the little
fellows enjoyed the hard corn and
they surely act like they liked to hear
it crunch under their sharp teeth.
Separated milk and shorts make a
good slop, and a little tankage can
be mixed with it for pigs must have
more bone-making material than is
common in most feeds if we are to
have them grow right. Pigs increase
in weight a greater percent during
their third to sixth week than during
any period of their lives if properly
fed, and if we want right results we
must get them proper diet. Clover
pastures, or alfalfa will save an abun-
dant lot of concentrated feeds, and
either of these is an almost balanced
ration for pigs. Government Bulle-
tin 215 finds that pigs weighing 30 to
60 pounds gained 100 pounds each in
the season when turned on alfalfa.
At the Kansas Station pigs were
given corn in addition and after al-
lowing for corn, the alfalfa pasture
returned 776 pounds of pork per acre.

Beware of too much thin slop. Pigs
will gorge themselves on this and lay
down and wait to be fed again. They
soon become "pot-bellied" and dumpy.
Shelled corn and forage and tankage
is best.

Forage Crop Easily Supplied
A forage crop that is easily sup-

Fourteen

PART I

plied is an acre or two of rape and
it has been found that less grain is
required to produce 100 pounds of
growth on rape than is required when
pigs are on alfalfa. Rape and oats
mixed, sown in our northern climates
about April 10th, will furnish more
good feed per acre for hogs than any-
thing you can sow. The best bunch
of spring pigs I ever recollect seeing
was a lot that had alfalfa pasture and
shelled corn. The alfalfa was divided
into two even lots, and as soon as the
tops were fairly well hipped off of
one lot, they were turned into the
other lot, the former being mown and
allowed to get a good start again
while the porkers were "trimming"
the other field.

Weaning Time Is Precsirious Period

One of the most precarious times
in the life of the pig is weaning time,
unless proper care has been used in
bringing him to a point where he de-
pends only in a small measure on the
mother's milk. Many breeders follow
the plan of allowing the sow to wean
them, but if the pig is carried as rap-
idly as he ought to be for eight or
nine weeks, the sow is being weak-
ened for her future litter, her mating
time for that future litter is being de-
layed, and the pig is benefited but
little. Some of the most successful
hog raisers we know commence at
the time the little fellow is two or
three weeks old, to throw out a little
shelled corn scattered where they can
pick it up undisturbed, once _ a day.
At another meal, separated milk in a
trough shut away from older hogs.
Added to this, forage of clover, al-
falfa, fall rye, or rape, and they will
soon be looking out for a good share
of what they consume. (Care must
be taken to take the foam off the sep-
arated milk as there is a gas in this
that is noisonous to Mr. Pig.) Mix
in a little middlings or shorts, grad-
ually thickening their slops as they
grow older. In addition to these the
pig should have access to some salted

charcoal, fine coal, a little sulphur,
air-slaked lime and pulverized copper.
Keep the skin of Mr. Pig free from
lice and mites, for feed is high and
you can ill afford to dish it out to a
colony of hog lice. Use crude oil
with a brush, or any of the well
known coal tar emulsions. Most of
these must be greatly reduced by the
addition of water. Don't use to
strong. Where a large number of
hogs and pigs are being raised a dip-
ping tank will be the surest and
easiest plan, especially if you are
raising them in our southern climate,
where frequent dipping is necessary
to keep the lice and mites down.
They can be driven through the dip-
ping tank in a few minutes and you
will be sure every part of the body
is covered with the killer. Rubbing
posts are a bi^ help and if you don't
care to invest in one, wrap an old
gunny sack around a post in the pig
lot, saturate it with crude oil, and see
how quickly they learn what it is for
and what it will do. They will apply
the oil in the right place without any
effort on your part.

Don't Expect Too Much of the Sow

As an example of what is exacted
of a brood sow during the eight or
nine weeks of suckling a litter, note
the result of an experiment carried
on by Henry (Wisconsin) where a
litter of eight pigs averaging approx-
imately three pounds May 84th (at
birth) gained by Aug. 2 an average
of 433 pounds, or a total of about 345
pounds and in the meantime this sow
weighing at the beginning 333 pounds
lost 39 pounds. Every bit of feed
consumed and 89 pounds of the sow's
own weight went towards the pigs'
gains. The right kind of a brood sow
will lose flesh when suckling in spite
of the amount of feed given.

Keep the Weanlings Growing

Care of the pig for 60 days after
weaning time will have more to do
with your ultimate profit from the

Fifteen

HOGOLOGY

business than the care through any-
other period. If you can keep them
on slightly increasing rations, with
continued good appetite satisfied with
properly balanced feed, your success
is assured. There are so many things
that befall "Piggy" in these days that
continual care is necessary. If you
are raising a good many, care must
be taken to have them sorted into
lots of different sizes and ages, so
larger ones will not rob the back-
ward ones. Be sure their beds and
nests are cleaned free from dust, lice
and mites. Crude oil sprinkled over
the dirt floors will answer two pur-
poses — lay the dust and kill germs.
Pigs must be frequently dipped in
some of the coal tar dips or sprinkled
with some lotion of crude oil. Lime
sprinkled over walls of the pens will
help. It is so common to see a bunch
of pigs driven out of a dusty pen
coughing and kicking up a cloud, and
we often wonder they are not all sick.

Sudden change of feed or cold,
damp weather may bring on scours,
another dire enemy of the growing
pig. Shut oflf the feed and give small
physic, followed later by light feed
on thin slop with some lime water
mixed with it, once a day. If the
pigs have been taught when suckling
to eat the same feeds that will be
used in continuing their growth, you
will have little trouble unless you at-
tempt to increase too rapidly. They
should be fed at least three times a
day, giving them only what they will
readily clean up. No feed should be
left in the trough during summer
months for them to eat later. It soon
sours and sour feeds will put your
pigs oflf feed quicker than anything
that can happen to them. Many feed-
ers follow the plan of mixing one feed
a head, but I very much doubt the
advisability of this unless it is in the
matter of soaking shell corn for them,
a plan which many follow with good
success.

If you will keep ever in mind the
fact that the pig's stomach more

nearly resembles the human stomach
than that of any other animal, and
is adversely affected by the same
things that cause the human to go
"oflf his feed" you will be able to fig-
ure out some of the reasons why the
pig isn't doing well, and you will also
be able to avoid many cases of indi-
gestion which delay the growth of
the pig. Neutritis is a common com-
plaint among well fed pigs an-d is
often taken for an attack of cholera,
but is only an aggravated case of in-
digestion.

Grow Some Clovers

Alfalfa or red clover pastures will
be a wonderful help in bringing these
pigs to maturity in right condition,
and the oft-used expression "pigs in
clover" is more than a pretty sound-
ing phrase for it helps with the year's
profit. One of the best posted hog
men of my acquaintances prefers red
clover to alfalfa for his pigs. He
raises both hogs and sheep and buys
alfalfa hay for his sheep and grows
clover for his pigs. There are other
crops not so good, but much more
quickly grown, such as rape, soy
beans, cowpeas and peanuts. Rape
and oats sown the first week of April
will be ready for the pigs by the first
of May or a little later and a couple
of acres of these will carry the pigs
along nicely for some weeks if sup-
plemented with slops and a little corn.
Turn them on rape a little while at a
time at first, as often the rape will
aflEect the skin. Keep them off of it
also for a few hours after rain and
in early morning after a heavy dew.
This mixed pasture is excellent also
for older hogs and keeps their system
in good working condition. Dwarf
essex rape is probably the best va-
riety and it is wonderful how much
pasture can be grown in an acre or
two of this. It furnishes green feed
in July and August, just when it is
most needed.

Shade must be provided for the
youngsters during the summer and

Sixteen

PART I

either a wooded lot or artificial shade
will answer. If there are no trees in
the lot, then build a low shed made
of short stout posts sticking three
feet above the ground, covered either
with brush and some straw or with
boards, all four sides being left open.
Keep the ground under the sheds
sprinkled down with crude oil to
avoid dust and its bad results.

Need Bone-Making Material

Most of the feeds used for grow-
ing pigs are lacking in mineral mat-
ter and this must be supplied by tank-
age and other bone-forming feeds.
Milk is the greatest feed of them all
for this purpose, but if little or no
milk is to be had, then tankage must
take its place. A mixture of other
mineral matter such as rock phos-
phate, slacked lime, charcoal, using
a little salt to make it palatable,
should be kept in a trough or self-
feeder. One of the best conditioners
for pigs or grown hogs can usually
be made right on the farm where ear
corn is fed. Rake the dry cobs in
feed lot, into a pile and set them afire,
letting them burn until the pile is a
mass of red coals, then put out the
fire with a sprinkler of water, let
them cool, sprinkle with salt and the
pigs will go for this like it was the
choicest morsel.

One of the most essential things for
growing pigs and one of the things
most neglected, and it is without a
doubt, the cheapest thing that we
could get for them; is plenty of fresh
water. Whether by patent watering
tank of some kind, or poured by hand
in their troughs, they should have all
they can drink. A pig's body is about
80 per cent water and the more we
can give the pig to drink, the more
he will grow and the more likely he
is to keep in good condition.

In addition to shade furnished for
the pigs, we should if possible have
a bath for them in the summer time.
A hog does not perspire and hot
weather affects him more than most

any other domestic animal, and a
cooling bath in heated season is a
big help. This can readily be made
■ of cement.

An excellent feed for the growing
pigs, can be made with two parts of
middling or corn meal or ground bar-
ley, mixed with skimmed or separated
milk. If this is too rich add bran,
making more bulk to the mixture.

One of the best lots of pigs I have
seen recently were brought along
after .weaning time with corn, oats
and wheat ground in equal parts
mixed into a slop with water, but the
pigs in addition had separated milk
twice a day.

Worms the Pigs Worst Enemy

Of all the enemies to the growing
pig, the intestine worm is the most
detrimental and most often found
working against the proper growth
of the pig. In picking up his daily
feed the eggs of the female which
have passed out with the extrement
of other pigs are taken up and
hatched in the intestines. These mul-
tiply rapidly and are soon sapping the
vitality of the growing youngster.
Yards and lots should be cleaned up
often and all stagnant water drained
off. A mixture of charcoal and salt
or charcoal, wood ashes and salt will
keep the common round worm under
submission. But they often flourish
and multiply so rapidly as to pack
the intestines. Any worm powder
that contains the proper amount of
Santonin or German worm seed will
do the work. No matter what you
are using for expelling the worms,
it must be given after the pig has
been shut up without feed for a few
hours, then followed with a good
physic. As there are any number of
good worm powders on the market
properly made and sold with direc-
tions how to use them, it is fully as
cheap and much easier to keep a sup-
ply of one of these on hand for fre-
quent use in cleaning out the worms
from pigs. A postal card to the De-

Sevenfeen

HOGOLOGY

partment of Agriculture will give you
a list of these that have stood the
Government test and usually this fact
vi?ill be found in the literature of the
company which compounds the medi-
cine. Clean quarters and the mixture
mentioned above kept at hand for
them will often ward off these pests
and save delay in the growth of your
pigs. A good conditioner at least
once a week will keep their appetites
sharpened to the right degree.

Essential to Keep Pigs Crowing

It will be the main business of the
hog grower from this time to market-
ing time to keep the animals putting
on pounds every day. This can be
done with forage, corn and mill feeds.
One of the main things is to keep the
animal in the best of physical condi-
tion, and as new corn comes in start
to feed this very slowly, as it often
upsets the digestive apparatus of the
pigs and they go off feed and often
develop severe indigestion and delays
their growth and finish. Cutting a
few stacks and throwing over into
their pasture is a good way to start
them. New oats in the sheaf thrown
over to them is an excellent feed and
keeps them busy picking this and they
get considerable of the green straw
while rooting out and devouring the
oats. As the corn crop comes nearer
maturity a portion of it fenced off and
the crop of pigs turned in will bring
some mighty good results. Experi-
ments tried by not only the Experi-
ment Stations and Colleges, but by
practical farmers and feeders through-
out the corn belt have demonstrated
that this is one of the best ways to
finish the crop of pigs for the mar-
ket and finish them with as little
labor as possible. At the same time
it distributes over the ground the en-
riching fertilizer left by the hog in
feeding, and not only saves corn husk-
ing and hog feeding, but it saves the
hauling of manure from the hog lots.
In this time of shortage of labor there
isn't any plan that recommends itself

to the feeder as thoroughly as does
the practice of hogging down corn.
Less of the corn is wasted than in
any other way of gathering it. They
wiir not pull down more than they
will eat, and unless the fields are ex-
tremely soft and muddy they will
tramp very little of it under foot.

Select Choice Gilts for Breeding

Before putting the pig crop into
the corn fields, it will be well for you
to select the gilts which you expect
to retain to mate for your next
spring's crop of pigs. These should
be kept on a pasture and given only
a little of the corn, as you will not
want them so fat in late October and
early November as the crop of pigs
yo.u are getting ready to market. They
should have some middlings along
with the corn and be kept on the
green stuff as late in the fall as it is
growing. Select the largest, stretch-
iest, smoothest gilts out of the bunch
to save to mate for your next spring's
crop. By this method you can al-
ways keep the size of your breeding
animals from getting smaller and can
retain the stretch and height neces-
sary for good brood sows. The farm-
ers and feeders as a rule do not keep
gilts the second year, but they use
spring gilts to breed in the fall for
their next spring crop. Breeders ot
pure bred hogs, however, do not fol-
low that plan, but select a few of
the top gilts and add to their yearl-
ings and aged sows, keeping the best
of all of them to produce their pigs
for the next year, getting rid of the
sows -of four or five years of age
through the market route. As a rule
the feeder markets his sows after they
have rais'ja and weaned their spring
pigs and S'^nds tbem over the icales
in late Juno or early July, when the
prices are usually at the highest
points of the year. From a money
making standpoint this may be good
business, but in keepina: up the
stretch an'l size and vigor if the herd
and the increase of profit by large

Eighteen

PART I

litters, it is not as good a plan as the
one adopted by breeders who retain
the best of their yearling sows. As
a rule aged sows will farrow and
raise two or three more pigs to a lit-
ter than a young gilt. She will us-
ually impart to them more vigor if
she is in the right condition when
mated and fed correctly during preg-
nancy. The improvement or deteri-
oration of your herd depends entirely
on your selection of these sows and
the boar to which you mate them for
the next spring crop and it is a time
when you need to use your good
judgment and all care at your com-
mand, and it will take more than the
knowledge you have gained during
the year's experience to select gilts
which will produce the best litters for
you during the coming year. These
gilts or sows should not- be fat when
they are mated for the next spring
litter, but they should be just begin-
ning to increase in weight so that
their reproductive organs will be in
the best possible condition. From
mating time on their feed should be
increased slightly to take care of the
excess of nourishment needed for the
litter that is to come and their feed
should be increased very graduallyup
to within a few days of farrowing
time. Either, select one of the strong-
est, best boned, stretchiest boars of
your spring crop to mate with these
sows (not too closely akin), or buy
a boar, either a spring boar or a fall
yearling, from some breeder of rep-
utation and buy him from a family
of excellent breeding and of good
type and one whose dams are noted
for large litters. You will be able by
this kind of selection to increase the
litters in your sows and gain the ad-
ditional profit. Personally I would
advise a fall yearling boar on account
of the extra strength and vigor that
he can impart to the litter, especially
if you have 13 or 15 sows to mate.
One of the best crops of spring pigs
I have ever seen was a lot of 150 pigs
sired by a fall yearling boar. This

man had bought two boars to use on
these sows, 18 of them, but at the last
minute just before mating time, one
boar met with an accident which left
the breeder with only the one boar.
Fortunately these sows came in heat
within a few days of each other and
more fortunately he had this strong
fall boar and mated two of them a
day and sometiibes three, until the
eighteen were bred. They raised him
150 spring pigs, and in the following
fall they looked like they had been
produced from one dam. Pigs of this
kind, fed out, going to the market are
most generally the market toppers.
It takes no more feed; usually less,
but the evenness with which they de-
velop makes the crop of pigs easy to
handle and makes an additional profit
at the market point in the fall. If
this man had tried to use a boar of
spring farrow on the sows he would
have secured some very poor litters
and an uneven bunch of pigs from
breeding so many within such a short
time, and result would have been in
most cases disappointing.

CONCLUSION:

For twenty-five years I have been
answering questions of the new hog
men going into the business of pro-
ducing and developing pure bred ani-
mals and one of the most numerous
questions I have had asked is this:
Where can I find a book that will tell
me all about hog raising? There is
but one answer to this question. That
book has not been written. I have
tried in this little story to present
some of the difficulties and- guide the
new hog men around some of the pit-
falls that come to the person who
takes up the work of establishing a
herd and producing pork hogs or rais-
ing to supply the breeding stock for
the farmer and feeder.

Only a small portion of the ques-
tions that come up in the hog man's
work are answered here, but I have
tried to put the story in readable form

Nineteen

HOGOLOGY

so that those under whose eyes it
may fall can not only read as they
run or rather go on with their work,

but can understand the simple Eng-
lish in which I have tried to express
myself.

Hints on Hog Husbandry

Hogs need water both winter and without any grain. They should be

summer, especially plenty of it fresh pushed along every day with a little

and clean in the summer time. Make grain until the fall grazing crops are

some arrangement to have the chill --eady

taken off the water which you give * Although peanuts, soy beans or

them to drmk in the winter time. ^^j^^^ ^^^^^ -^ ^j^^ 5^^,^!^ ^^^ l^^t;.

evfrt^ hTgs" o^n'^hl' ri^heTp'a^tu^re' ^f- -rn and other feeds high priced,

As a rule two and five-tenths pounds >* will pay to feed some feed to sup-

of grain to each 100 pounds of live Ply the carbo-hydrate needed while

weight will take care of them where the hogs are grazing on these crops.

there is an abundance of pasture. A balanced ration is the one that

Without the pasture three to four counts most.

pounds of grain to 100 pounds of live The fcllowing is recommended by

weight will be necessary. the Govirnment as a gooo tonic to

North Platte, Nebraska Experi- supply mineral matter to the hogs

ment Station, proved in making ex- system. piss9lye coperas in hot

periments on the rations for fattening water and sprinkle over the mixture,
hogs that concentrated feeds added to

corn and chopped alfalfa hay, 95 parts Coperas 2 pounds

corn, 5 parts tankage and alfalfa in Slacked hme 4 pounds

rack, showed up first place in the con- Wood ashes 1 bushel

elusion of the experiments. Corn and Sulphur 4 pounds

tankage without alfalfa showed sec- Salt 8 pounds

ond. Ground corn 90, oil meal 10 Fine charcoal 1 bushel

parts was third in the experiment.

The advantage of permanent pas-

tures over ordinary forage crops is Be ready for the early fall market,

the continuance of growth from The spring pigs must be fed a heavier

spring until late fall. Either a few grain ration than pigs intended for

hogs may be grazed during the whole the winter market or for breeding

season if left until after it has made stock.

a good growth or a large herd may,

be pastured on it for a short time. pjgg q„ pasture usually get enough

An acre of rape and oats ought to exercise. 1 hey should have a clean,

support during the season about three well-protected shelter, well ventilated.

sows and eighteen spring pigs on the •

assumption that a fairly heavy grain . „ . ,
ration is fed and that the oats and Pigs are troubled occasionally with
rape are given a good start. Rape sore mouth, canker of mouth, bull
and oats make one of the best tern- nose, "snufHes," etc. This is an in-
porary hog pasture mixtures. fectious disease due to a germ get-
Pork cannot be produced econom- ting into a wound in a pig's mouth,
ically if you let weanling pigs come Dip the pig's head into a solution of
along on pasture during the summer one ounce of permanganate of potash

Twenty

PART I

to a gallon of water every day for a
week or more.

Corn plus alfalfa for the winter
brood sow will be found as good a
ration as can be devised by the hog
grower Common salt should be al-
lowed to be at hand for free access.

Provide plenty of shade. If the
hog lot does not contain plenty of
natural shade, then ailihcial should be
supplied.

Keep pools or wallows clean. Stag-
nant and filthy water may keep the
hogs cool but the evil results from
unsanitary conditions over-balance
that result.

Keep the sleeping quarters free
from dust by spraying with crude oil.
Hogs will not thrive while coughing
and wheezing.

Concrete feeding floors is one of
the hog man's best assets. It is a
grain saver and assists in keeping the
place sanitary. Such a floor should
be six inches thick and if not laid
against the hog house, it should have
a curb extending from 18 to 8 inches
below the surface of the ground.
Floors should slope slightly towards
one corner to carry off rain or water
used in washing. For feeding floors
concrete should be mixed to propor-
tion one sack of Portland Cement, to
two cubic feet of clean coarse sand,
graded up to one-fourth of an inch;
three cubic feet of hard durable gravel
or broken stone from one-quarter of
an inch to one inch in diameter. Con-
crete should be thoroughly mixed and

should contain enough water to make
the mass quaky, so that the concrete
will flatten out of its own weight.

Any hog man, even in the corn belt,
by adopting the plan of growing soy
beans in the corn at the last cultiva-
tion and then turning in the hogs to
harvest both crops, will be well re-
paid.

Hog lots and enclosures should be
frequently plowed and refeeded, ob-
taining two objects at the same time.
One to make them more sanitary and
the second to produce more forage
and pasture.

In the spring after the litter is
weaned the sow should be given a
good fresh pasture of some kind with
a little grain and she will need but
very little concentrate feeds for a
month or two until time to begin to
bring her into condition for another
season's breeding. If she is to be
bred soon again after weaning her
fall or spring litters it is well to com-
mence feeding her immediately after
the udder is completely dried up.
Grass and water with two or three
ears of corn daily for each sow will
be sufficient.

Prevention of ulcers or sores con-
sists in keeping pens and yards clean
and sanitary for the filth of dust and
mud, etc., are carriers of disease pro-
ducing germs. Wash any ulcers or
sores with a 3% solution of any stand-
ard coal tar disinfectant.

Considerable relief can be gotten
for hogs suffering from lung trouble,
congestion of the lungs, and lung

Twenty-one

HOGOLOGY

worms, if a dip smudge is given once
a month. Fix up a tight shed or
stall, clean it thoroughly, put down
five or six inches of good fresh straw,
then saturate the straw thoroughly
with a solution of 50 parts of dip to
50 parts of boiling water. Drive the
hogs into the shed, crowding them
pretty well, and shut all doors and
allow them to remain there a couple
of hours. The steam fumes from the
dip will be inhaled by the hogs and
cut the congestion from the lungs and
be a wonderful help. On warm days
a weaker solution of the dip may be
used to sprinkle them. Do not give
the smudges on cold or rainy days.
When the hogs are turned out, be
sure it is in the middle of the day,
and do not turn them out to take
more cold. The treatment is an an-
tiseptic and a germicide, and a disin-
fectant as well.

The scour ailment is characterized
by a whitish discharge with a foul
odor. Causes are from over-feeding
the_ sow or from a sudden change in
ration, sour slop, and often comes
from being in damp or filthy quarters.
The best treatment of course is pre-
vention. One of the best remedies
found is to cut down the ration of the
sow at once and give the sow about i
ounces of raw linseed oil in the. slop.
If scours are not checked in two days,
give the sow 5 to 12 drops of tincture
of opium. Give the pigs one-eighth to
one-fourth teaspoonful of the follow-
ing mixture as a drench twice a day:

Bismuth of nitrate l4 ounce

Salol }4 ounce

Bichlorate of soda 1 ounce

have access to canals or irrigation
ditches. Do not visit your neighbor's
farm nor allow him to visit your's if
there is cholera on his premises. Do
not use the hog lots for farm imple-
ments. Do not place newly purchased
stock with your herd. Keep them in
a quarantine in a separate pen at least
for two weeks. Use care to prevent
carrying infection from these to the
other pens. Burn or cover with quick-
lime and bury under four feet of
earth all dead animals and viscera re-
moved from animals at butchering
time, because they attract buzzards,
dogs, etc., and they are liable to carry
infection. If cholera appears in the
neighborhood, confine your dog and
urge your neighbor to do the same.
Hog houses, lots apd pastures should
be arranged so as to be exposed as
far as possible to sunlight, which is
the cheapest and the best disinfectant.
All the holes and cesspools should be
drained and filled in or fenced oil.

Be sure that your hog lots and pas-
tures are away from streams and pub-
lic highways. Do not allow them to
run on free range or highways or

The sow's desire to eat her pigs
may result from a number of things,
as it is not natural for her to want
to destroy her young. She becomes
constipated and feverish and devel-
ops an abnormal craving or appetite
and may kill her pigs for that reason.
To prevent this condition she should
be properly fed. Oil meal in the ra-
tion will assist in regulating her bow-
els. In extreme cases of constipation
use epsom salts. The after-birth
should be promptly removed from the
pen and burned or buried. If left in
the pens she is likely to devour it,
and as the scent of the newly born
pigs is similar, she may have the de-
sire to eat them. A sow that has ac-
quired the habit of eating her pigs
should be watched carefully. The
pigs may be saved sometimes by rub-
bing each as it is farrowed with a

Twenty-two

PART I

cloth saturated with kerosene, being There are four very sharp teeth in

careful not to use but a little, as the the mouth of the pigs, in the rear of

kerosene may blister the pig's skin. the mouth, and they are likely to

When the sow detects this odor she cause trouble in tearing the sow's

will decide not to eat the pigs. Very udder and they will be likely to cut

frequently in her irritation or fever- one another's mouths while fighting

ishness she steps on, or kills one with for the teats. These teeth can be re-

her head in bumping it and acquires moved with tooth forceps, wire nip-

the habit from eating the one she pers or a knife. Always cut or break

killed. them. Do not pull them.

Twenty-three

»iBm«II ■)«■»■«—

— HIIVMII^— ■|MH||4*

PART II

101 Fully Illustrated Plans for Building
Hog Lot Devices

^n— n— ■>—■■-

— an-^Hn— MJ i

INDEX

Carts Pages 30 to 33

Oilers " 37 and 38

Handy Crates, Holders, Traps . . "41 to 50

Creeps and Gates " 53 " 58

Chutes "61 and 62

Troughs, Self-Feeders, Etc . . . . " 65 to 114

Miscellaneous Hog Lot Appliances " 117 " 132

HOGOLOGY

A Combination Cart

For some time I had felt the desire
for an improvement on the "slop-pail
— bushel basket" method of feeding
hogs. I evolved the idea of a com-
bination cart drawn by horse power,
which would not only carry a slop or
water barrel, but would be a handy
conveyance for general use in the hog
business. I went with my plans to
the local blacksmith, and in a few
hours we made a cart, which, after
two years of constant use, has proved
entirely satisfactory.

Two long cart shafts are attached
to a heavy axle fitted with strong cart
wheels. The width from wheel to
wheel is the standard buggy width.
The shafts are attached to the axle
just inside the wheels. The axle is
then bent downward and extended to
within ten inches of the ground, then,
carried across under the floor of the
box. The box is made to fit inside
this drop axle, and bolted securely,
the axle being placed four inches to
the rear of the center of the box to
avoid tipping. The cross bar of the

shafts is bolted to the front end of
the box. The box itself is 5 feet long,
3 feet 2 inches wide and 2 feet 6
inches high. The rear end is hinged
to the floor of the box with gate
hinges. When let down, this makes a
loading chute. If desired, this end
gate may be unhinged. The sides of
the box are of white pine, secured to
the floor with iron straps. The floor-
ing is of hard wood, as are also the
heavy supports beneath. The cart is
thoroly painted with heavy wagon
paint.

The daily service of this cart has
demonstrated that it was a practical
investment. Not only does it accom-
modate the slop barrel, but it carries
sacks of tankage, middlings and other
dry feeds, hauls several bushels of ear
corn, a good sized shock of corn or
stover, fresh straw to the hog houses
and soiled bedding and manure away.
It transports a sow with her litter or
a score of pigs. A-shaped cots can be
inverted into it and moved with ease.

We find the ideal way to feed ear

Two views of the combination cart, a description of which Is given above by
C. Clayton Terrell, Its maker, at Vienna, Ohio.

TMrty

PART II

corn or shock corn to growing pigs
or brood sows is to scatter it over a
field from this cart. The hogs thus
have a fresh feeding place each time,
and are induced to take vigorous
exercise.

This vehicle is of great assistance
when the time comes to immunize the
pig crop. It is used to convey the
pigs from their various lots and fields
to the central house where the
operator remains and works under
sanitary conditions.

The capacity of this cart accom-
modates the carrying of fresh bedding
along with the regular feed. Thus, a
soiled nest may be readily renewed,
which otherwise might be neglected —
and neglect means loss in the hog
business.

Another handy use to which we put
this cart is the moving of posts and
fencing from one field to another
when hogging corn. Rolls of fencing

are easily loaded into the cart, the
floor being only a few inches from
the ground at the rear. Handling
cement, sand and stone for concrete
work; moving heavy articles about
the farm; hauling stove wood; trans-
planting trees; hauling mulch dirt for
gardening, and a dozen other such
operations — all may be done to ad-
vantage with this handy low down
vehicle.

One of the most attractive features
is that one may ride from place to
place, and, with a good roadster in
the shafts, save much time and
energy.

I expect to make a new use of this
cart this season in hauling water and
fuel to our new tractor.

Experience with this combination
cart has proved that it is the most
used and most convenient vehicle on
my farm.

This Slop Cart Expedites Feeding

The cart shown here I made with
a pair of old cultivator wheels and a
three-foot galvanized tank I bought.
The tank was set over the axle back
far enough so it would not tip for-

WILBUR AN0ERSOI4-WICHITA IOWA.

ward, then I made an iron hook to
fasten over top edge of tank at the
back side, putting wire from the hook
down to the cart and twisting it tight.
A block was nailed at each side of
tank to keep it from sliding into the
wheels. After this, a 3}4-inch faucet
was bolted to the tank where a hole
had been cut in the bottom front
edge (the faucet has been omitted
from the illustration).

I use the tank for mixing slop, then
wheel to the troughs, open the
faucet, filling up the feeders, making
my slopping operations much easier.
The whole outfit cost me $5.85, $5.00
for the tank, 85c for the faucet, the
cart being made out of old materials.

Thirty-one

HOGOLOGY

This Slop Cart Gives Service

The illustration shows the most dur-
able and practical slop cart I have yet
seen. It is made from the arch and
wheels of an old riding corn plow by
reversing the arch and having it cut
and welded the right length to fit un-
der the barrel in a half round groove
cut in the chime, making the barrel
more solid. I furnished the barrel,
arch and wheels and my smith charged
me $3.00 for the labor and rest of the
material. A piece of old wagon tire
one inch wide will do to make the clip
irons for the top of axles and to fasten
the tongue to the barrel and also for
the tongue rest. These are fastened
by two bolts in each end of irons and
the nuts are on the inside of the bar-
rel. The tongue is an oak piece 3 ft.

long and 3J^xl^ in.; it has a piece
of an old fork handle 8 ins. long thru
the end to pull by. The top end of
the barrel is taken out and two pieces
of strap iron bolted across them for a
lid, and an ordinary strap hinge is
used to fasten it to the front side of
the barrel so when it is open it rests
on the tongue.

This is an important feature to me
as it keeps the chickens from drown-
ing, and if properly hung, will keep
oat the flies. It is high enough from
the ground so that you can back it up
to the trough and pour out the last of
the slop and keep out all the settlings,
thus keeping the barrel sanitary,
which I think is very essential in hog
raising.

g CT.WCDDf
NEWCARLUltl
OHIO

Thirty -tzvo

PART II

A Slop Cart

The attached drawing indicates the
parts to use in the construction of a
very handy and efficient slop cart. I
will endeavor to explain how it is
set up. Nos. 1 are the wheels; No. 3
slips over the hanger No. 2 thru
the square hole in the hangers. Then
brace iron No. 5 bolts to hanger No.

two staples, straddling the iron at
each corner. Lugs No. 4 bolt on
side of barrel No. 9 in the center and
the single tree No. 7 bolts on cross
pice No. la, and the Nos. 4 will swing
in the grooves No. 3. The long point
of No. 3 is on the rear. The boards
No. 8 lie on the brace iron Nos. 5,

3 where the two round holes are in-
dicated. Brace iron No. 5 hooks
over cross piece No. 12 with a bolt
thru each. This is to prevent barrel
from upsetting. The front of square
arch No. 2 lays on top of the wood
cross piece No. 11 and fastens with

which makes an ideal place for carry-
ing basket for com or slop pails.

This is one of the most convenient
carts for feeding and hauling the
water for large or small herds. It is
also easily cleaned. No. 3 hangers
are made of malleable iron to prevent
breaking.

Thirty-three

Oil

ers

PART II

This Oiler Chases Lice

My good handy home-made hog
oiler has proven of great value and
has saved a great deal of money for
us on our Duroc farm. The oiler
is made by taking a round locust
post six inches in diameter and 4^
feet long, boring six one inch holes
in the top near the outer edge and
about six inches deep; and with a
small gimlet bit bore one or two holes
from the outside of the post into each
of the larger holes near the bottom.
Take some burlap (or old gunny
sacks) and wrap around the upper
eighteen inches of the post, covering

the small holes. Take some rope
(about A inch is preferred) and
wrap closely over the burlap, and
staple several wires up and down
over the rope. Next (set the post
in the ground, and pour crude oil in
the one inch holes, and the hogs will
gladly do the rest.

We have found lice, one of the
bad pests among hogs, and this cheap
oiler will cost practically nothing to
build and is easily looked after by
keeping the holes filled with crude
oil. You-will kill all the lice and keep
the hogs' skin in good shape.

R. C. BEAUCHAMP
FALLS or ROUGH. RV.

TUrty-ieven

HOGOLOGY

Hogs Like This Roller Oiler

The oiler for hogs shown by the
sketch below is intended to be used in
a gate which the animals must of ne-
cessity pass thru. When they pass
between the rollers, wound with rope
saturated with crude oil, they are well
oiled each time they go to the feeding
pen. The rollers can be adjusted, ac-
cording to the size of the animals lo
be accommodated, so it will catch
their sides well. It is well to keep the
ropes saturated with crude oil at all
times for best results.

This is three feet high, four feet
long, and built of 3x4 oak material.
The rollers most popular to wrap the

rope around are 3x3. You will find
this a good investment.

ALBCKT n*TSAN , HiOHLAND. O.

A Serviceable Hog Oiler

The following is a description of a
hog oiler and rubbing post, one that a
large hog will not upset and that is
suitable, also, for the small pigs. In
fact this is a successful oiler as a pig
or hog wil rub any part of its body on
it and will get astraddle of it and oil
parts that other oilers fail to oil. It
is simple, durable, economical, and

iATURATEO WITH tWX C

Z.SLOUItt
ELMWOOD,0KLA.

serviceable for all sizes and ages of
hogs. When in use there will be no
lice or skin disease. These are rea-
sons why you should have one, too,
brother breeder.

Set a strong five foot post in the
ground three feet deep, leaving two
feet to stand perpendicular, then,
mortise one end of a ten foot 4x4
into the top of the post and bolt
securely, leaving other end of 4x4 to
extend into a hole dug in the ground
lyi' deep. Fill hole around 4x4 with
cement to make solid, wrap 4x4 and
post with gunny sacks, and wrap them
with smooth wire and staple at inter-
vals of four to six inches. Saturate
with crude oil, and it is then ready
for use.

Thirty-eight

PART II

Combination Chute, Crate, Ringer

COL.C J JOMNJTXIN
NEW WEJTON OHIO

I have a hog crate, loading chute,
ringing pen, all in one item of equip-
ment, made on a swag iron axle, in
the center, so as to tip up with either
end the right slant in wagon. When
using it as a crate, just drop in the
end doors, also for use when ringing
or tagging.

This device is 7 ft. long, 30 in. wide,

i ft. high, and the end doors are
dropped in from the top. Its being
on two wheels makes it possible to
move where desired on the farm to
load or unload hogs of 1,500 lbs. each,
or to fasten behind your car and run
it as fast as you want to. I find this
as handy a combination as "a pocket
in a shirt."

Forty-oae

HOGOLOGY

Advantages of the Breeding Crate

PROPER management at breed-
ing time frequently results in the
breeding of a great many sows
that otherwise might fail to mate and
would necessarily have to be carried
over to the next season, thus involv-
ing expense without producing a lit-
ter of pigs. This condition may be
partly overcome by the use of the
breeding crate, which is growing in
popularity.

Some sows when in heat will not
take the boar readily and will often
hinder a successful service by lower-
ing the vitality of the male. When a
small sow is bred to a large, heavy
boar there is danger of injury to the
sow if some mechanical device is not
used to help bear the weight of the
boar. Such a device can also be used
to advantage when a small boar is
mated to a large sow.

There are many types of breeding
crates which the farmer may con-
struct. The accompanying illustra-
tions show a crate that can be
operated by one man and is easily
constructed on the average farm
without involving much expense.
Directions for Operation

The sow is driven into the open end
of the crate until her hind feet are in
front of the crosspiece of the T-
shaped lift. The sow is elevated by
means of the lift, which is drawn up
by a windlass as shown in the illus-

tration. A ratchet on the windlass
holds the sow at the desired height.
The partition at the front end of the
crate operates on a slide and can be
arranged to suit the length of the
sow. Thus, if the sow is large the
partition can be moved toward the
end of the crate to allow plenty of
space without cramping her, and in
the case of a small sow the partition
is moved closer to eliminate an un-
due amount of space. The point to
remember is that the animal should
be in a natural position in order to
obtain the best results.

When the sow is properly placed
the boar is brought up. His hind
feet should rest on a flat cleated plat-
form laid on the ground to give him
a solid footing. The cleats should be
1 by 2 inches to prevent slipping.
His front feet will fall upon the rest,
as shown in the drawing, the sow be-
ing required to bear only a small'part
of his weight. The sow should then
be raised or lowered, as the case may
be, to the proper height by means of
the windlass. When a small sow is
bred the short top rests are extended
to hold her firmly in position.

After breeding, the boar is driven
to his pen or paddock. The sow is
removed from the crate either by re-
leasing the ratchet on the windlass
and allowing her to back out or by re-
moving the sliding partition so that

Forty-fwo

PART II

she may walk out the front end of
the crate.

Bill of Materials for Constructing a
Crate

Dressed or undressed lumber may
be used in the construction of a breed-
ing crate. The material required will
total about 140 board feet of lumber
of the following dimensions:

6 pieces, 2 by 4 Inches by 16 feet long, for
uprights and sides.

14 pieces, 1 by 6 Inches by 12 feet long, for
sides and flooring.

Hardware, Etc.
2 pieces, )i-inch iron rods 30 inches long,
with 2 wing nuts, as shown in illustration,
for sliding partition.

1 piece, 1-inch pipe 2 feet 10 inches in
length, with handle and ratchet, for wind-
lass.

12 feet sash cord, for windlass.

1 pair hinges.

4 angle irons, %-inch th'ick by 1% inches
in width, and made 2 by 3 inches, as shown
on the sliding partition.

5 pounds 10-penny wire nails.

2 pounds 20-penny nails.

It is not absolutely necessary to
construct the crate as shown. Other
methods of making a windlass that
will answer the desired purpose may
suggest themselves. For instance,
instead of being made of iron, it could
be made of wood in much the same
manner as the old wooden windlass
used over wells.

Forty-three

HOGOLOGY

A Catcher That Does the Trick When Ringing

Those who are familiar with catch-
ing hogs in a hog catcher will Know
that after an old sow has been caught
and operated on a couple of times it
is a job to drive her into a hog catch-
er, and hog ringing, while effective,
must be repeated from time to time
because of the loss of the ring. Some-
times an animal is wanted for various
other reasons. With the ringing ar-
rangement shown one man can easily
ring a bunch of hogs without assis-
tance.

Make your pen in two compart-
ments long and narrow; make a chute
3 ft.xlO ft. at one end, placing the par-
titions close up, leaving room for only
a few hogs behind the chute. The
bottom of the chute is to be three feet
lower at the outside end; locate your
hog catcher here. If you have a hill
side, everything is ready; if not, dig
a pit. Attach two small ropes to the

lever of the hog catcher, letting them
run back to a small gate in the par-
tition, fixing them so the operator can
open and close the lever with the
ropes. Lay two boards 3 in.xl3 in.x8
ft. in the chute as a floor, planed
smooth on one side, and well greased,
ending them close up to the hog catch-
er, leaving about two feet of bare
ground in the chute behind the boards.
Now the hogs can be driven in the
big pen, then open the small gate, cut
out five or six in the chute pen, and
with the ropes, open the gate enough
for one to pass thru. When he hits
the slippery slide, he is sure to go into
the catcher. Have the lever blocked
so it will open only wide enough for
the jowels to get thru until after opera-
tions, when it can be opened wide, and
Mr. Hog will slip thru of his own
accord. I find this does the trick.

LARGE PEN
R EARU ABETRNATHY , CONCORD, ILL

Forty-four

PART II

A Hog Ringing Crate

Here is a hog-ringing crate. With it
we can ring one hundred hogs an hour.
One man can make this crate in an
hour or two and the material needed
used (2x4 and 1x6) are so short as to
be worth little for anything else.

The measurements indicated in the

men inside drive hogs into it, while one
man does the ringing. The pig walks
up one side and down the other and
holds himself with his nose between
the two boards. It is then an easy mat-
ter for the operator to ring him, after
which he pulls the pins from the top of

- 5'/l-

door of the hog house and one or two
diagram are taken from the one we use.
It is just right for pigs of 100 to 200
pounds, with larger hogs it would be
necessary to build a larger crate.

It takes two or three men to run this
machine. It is placed in front of the

the board, allowing them to spread, thus
permitting the hog to jump thru. The
operator stands on the left side and
holds the pig with a patented or home-
made pig holder with one hand and
rings them with the other.

Forty-five

HOGOLOGY

Hog Holder for Vaccinating or Castrating

We have a holder used for either vac-
cinating or castrating hogs that is ex-
ceedingly satisfactory. The assistant
state veterinarian in Mt. Pleasant says
it is the best thing he ever saw for that
purpose and we heartily -agree with him.
The pig is laid on its back with nose

well through the hole; while one man
holds his fore-legs and another his hind-
legs, the vaccinator's work is then very
easy, as the pig can neither move nor
squeal. You will like to use one, we be-
lieve. The sketch shows materials and
details of construction.

2a (0*

2>I2"

HOG HOLDER
FOR
VACCINATING

BLACKnORC BROS.. IfT. PLeAJANt.xfOVM.

A Handy Hog Holder

I submit plans for an inexpensive hog
holder that will be found to fill all needs
for such a device.

The materials required are 3 feet of
J4 inch gas pipe with sharp edges

dressed off; 3J4 feet of clothes line
wire; 4 inches of pitchfork handle, or
similar material for handle of instru-
ment.
Bore a small hole j/i inch from the

Forty-six

PART II

lower end of the pipes and fasten the
wire in same. Then run wire through
the pipe and lengthwise through the

IPUIS J.WILKINSON-ROODHOUSE ILL.j

)blN.HOUINPI»Er'

'^IN.PIECS OFWOO

i inch handle and form a loop by fas-
tening the wire back on itself.

It is now ready for use. Push down
on the wire, forming a loop at the lower
end of the pipe. Slip this loop over the
hog's nose through the mouth and pull
up on handle and down on pipe.

A Pig Trap

HM.P0E
IKCOMB OHia

I have made what I consider one of
the most useful of hog farm devices
which I call my pig trap. It consists of
a crate made on this order: Height, 8
feet; width, 32 inches, and 4 feet 6
inches long. This is made very similar
to a hog crate, but it has no bottom in
it, and both ends are made to slide up
and down when desired. The top strips
are mailed lengthwise of the crate in-
stead of crosswise. The trap should be
made of light lumber so that it will be
light to handle.

When wishing to catch any pig, throw
down a little corn and your pigs will

Forty-:

soon be busy. Let your customer choose
his pig, then pick up your trap, walk
among your pigs, <«id drop it over the
one desired. It matters not toward
which end the head is in the crate, as
either end will slide up and down. It is
then possible to set a crate at the end
of the trap and quietly walk your pig
into it. There is no hard work in the
operation, no squealing or excitement,
and I believe that I can catch every pig
one at a time and the last pig will still
be eating when caught. I would not be
without my hog trap for a good deal.

HOGOLOGY

A Ringing Chute

HEAVY IRON

STRftPIRON 17"

2"x'f"xz8"

C.Y.5T0UT, UNION 3TAR,nO.

This simple Ringing Chute can be
used for removing tusks from boars,
and to haul hogs to town as well as
for Ringing. The frame is made of
8x4's of pine and the rest of cypress.
The 2x4 side pieces are laid flat, and
the 2x4 top cross pieces in front are on
edge. The top center 2x4 is laid flat
and a 2x2 is used on top at the back.
The 8x4 cross pieces under the chute

are on edge and the 2x4's are sawed
so they can be bolted together with 4
inch bolts. Three 8 inch boards 54
inches long make the bottom and all
boards are nailed on the inside of the
2x4 pieces. Top boards are cut 2 inches
short to allow the end board to drop
in place. Two strap irons are used
on the end for cross pieces. Four 6
inch and fourteen 4 inch bolts are used.

A Handy Catching Pen

The accompanying sketch shows
the plan of my device that I have used
for some time and found it very con-
venient in catching hogs on my farm.
In one corner of your lot build a
straight fence, forcing a triangle pen
>om A to B. Hang a large gate at
C, open to D and closed at B; hang a
large gate at E, open to F and closed
at C; hang a small gate at H, open to
I and closed at A.

Forty-eight

PART II

To catch a hog easily, feed near the
small gate, and close the "sweep
gate." Place your crate at small, open
the gate, and the hog can readily be
driven in. I find this pen to be espe-
cially handy for catching pregnant

sows or animals of all kinds without
running or exciting them. I also find
by having a door at both ends of my
crate it makes it very easy to get the
hog out of the crate.

A Simple Hog Holder

Get a round stick about 5 feet long
and bore a 5^ inch hole in one end
of it. Run a J^ inch rope thru the

twist. You have him so he can't get
away and can proceed to insert rings
in the nose. We can easily ring the hogs

hole and tie the ends securely. Get
this loop around the hog's nose and

by ourself with this handy and simple
instrument.

A Trap That Gets Them

The trap to catch and hold hogs
I first made when just a boy and have
never seen a hog too big to be held
so still they could not flinch or jerk
the least bit when being rung. To
remove the tusks from old boars
catch them in this trap and using a
staple puller to grip the tusks, you
can break them oflf smooth close to
the gums. Use the notched places in
pullers, same as gripping a staple to
pull. •

This trap works best built in a nar-
row alley, a gate, or door will do,
and hope it will be helpful to more
than one breeder.

^fiOLES FOR ADJUSTMENT
B.E. HALL, WATSON. MO.

Forty-nine

HOGOLOGY

A Handy Crate

CLARENCE R0BBIN5, CLCNCOE.KY.

The crate shown in the accompany-
ing drawing I have found very handy
in moving hogs from one part of the
farm to another. The sketch is self-
explanatory as to construction, but

I will add that it can be set on a
sled, the hog driven in at one end
and out of the other by having both
ends so that they can be raised.

Sow and Litter Shipping Crate

This crate is very handy to ship a
sow with litter by her side. The pigs
can be kept in the small enclosure at

the end of the crate and will keep out
of danger's way. The diagram below
will explain the measurements, etc.

H.tH.itfT, PCRRV, rOWA

Fifty

Creeps and Gates
In the Hog Pen

-a— ^. -

PART II

A Creep for Young Pigs

To teach young pigs to eat at the
earliest possible age, we use flat bottom
troughs 13 inches wide by 4 inches deep,
in which to feed the mothers. The
small pigs soon learn to eat from a
trough like this. As soon as the pigs
learn to eat well from this trough,
build a division fence which will pre-
vent the mother from getting to the
trough. Feed the mother near by in
a trough with the top at least 13 inches
from the ground and make a creep hole
near the ground so the pigs can get to
the low, flat trough containing pig feed.
When several sows have pigs a month
old and over, we bunch them and feed
the young porkers in a common pen.
♦ * ♦

Our feed pens are formed in the

shape of an L, a row of pens 6 feet by
8 feet being arranged for each indi-
vidual sow. The bottow of the L forms
the feed pen for the pigs; the open side
is toward the pasture.

When we first used such an arrange-
ment, we noticed as the pigs grew they
got wedged in the creep hole. We found
that some smart pig, too large to get in
would take a running start and leap
into the hole and become wedged hard
and fast. Many pigs that could just
get in would be unable to get out after
they had eaten their stomachs full. So
we wanted a creep hole that would not
wedge a pig and that would be larger
for the pig when coming out than com-
ing in. We made one to fill the bill,
and here it is:

~~«W^ — -3

U^^^«

^^^B

^^^

^^^^

111

^^^^^^^^^^^==^

l^^^^S

^^==

— - —

Piity-three

HOGOLOGY

Six inches from the ground make a
horizontal opening 8 inches wide and 4
feet long. At the ends of this opening
set two uprights (2x6) on the outside
of the pen. Nail these to the pen edge-
wise; this forms a door facing. Make
a door to fit between these uprights
and hang it from above so that it will
cover three inches of the opening at
bottom.

The hinges are mastened to a 2x4
that rests on the top of the facing. A
2x6 four feet long between the door
facing and underneath the creep hole
does the job. This makes a creep hole
5 inches wide and 4 feet long so several
pigs can get in at one time. The pigs
go in thru a five inch hole and come
out thru an eight inch hole. If a pig

gets wedged, he backs out and the
swinging door opens and never injures
an animal.

When the pigs are eating, we open the
doors to the sow pen and let the sows
in one at a time and close the door
on her to prevent fighting. We have
several pens for pigs of different sizes.

It is necessary to have a facing so
the bottom of the door hangs well in-
side of the facing to keep the sows
from opening it. We nail a strip hori-
zontally across the facing midway of the
door on the side the door opens to
keep the door from opening too wide
and to give strength to the whole thing.
Thus we have a creep hole that is never
out of shape.

An A-1 Trap for Hogs

I have a simple and inexpensive
equipment on my farm which I wish
to give to brother breeders. It

is what I call a hog gap, and I
think anyone raising hogs could use
it with satisfaction and profit. I use it

Fifty-four

PART II

between all my fields and bermuda
pasture, at my dipping vat, and be-
tween field and field. It is made in
this way. I go to my wire fence, put
in two good fence posts three feet
apart, staple the wire to them firmly,
then, beginning at the bottom of the
fence, I leave the two bottom wires
there, but cut the wires above these
as high as I want the gap, say two
and a half or three feet, leaving the
two bottom and top wires in tact.
Then take a l}4x4 and nail on posts
up and down the same side of fence
wire is nailed on. I nail on two
cross pieces, Ij4x4, one across the
bottom just coming up even with the
two wires left, the other three feet above
the first, making an opening 3' x 3'
which will admit any of my hogs or
pigs, but not a^mit cows or horses.
To stop this hole up, I take three

one inch boards 12" wide and about
4' long and stick down between the
wires I left uncut at bottom and top
of fence and the two cross pieces,
this making it secure until you want
it open. Boards of smaller width, can
be inserted in the place of the twelve
inch board to admit only small pigs
and shotes in a corn field just after
laying by on any other field to eat
lots of succulent grass, weeds, and
fallen corn which would otherwise be
lost. Listen, Mr. Hog Raiser, they
will get fat and make you money,
whereas if you let the old sows in
there, there would be lots of corn
wasted. You cauvmake this gap in a
plank or rail fence as well. I use it
at my dipping vat and feeding pens
as well to keep the big hogs from
running over and crushing the little
ones.

Plans for Building a Gate

The frame of the gate shown in the
following drawing is made of hard-
wood boards lj^x4 inches, and of
course must be of such length that
will meet the requirements of the size
of gate. There is one brace, as is
shown by the cut, 1^4x4 inches; also
one piece of hardwood 15^x4 inches
and one piece of iron 24 inches long
(after being bent) and Yt inch in dia-
meter. The covering is hog wire of
good quality. After the frame has been
made a piece 2x6 is taken out of the

Ij4x4-inch oak, six inches from the
end that is to be next to the latch
post. This piece is now nailed flat
sided, and a hole is bored thru the
gate-frame and into the post (about
2 inches into the post). This iron
has now been bent and is fitted into
the bored hole so that the crook fits
into the notch marked "B" in the
sketch.

Now, two staples are nailed over
each end of the iron rod to hold it in

HOGOLOGY

>0\

--U.

'!^

p::^

—

^r-~"

trr

—

1 l__lli ::4_

W, B. CLARK . COLD HILL, VA.

place. To open the gate, simply raise
or turn up the U-bend in the iron and
slip it back from the post; this lets
the gate swing open. To close, the
gate is pushed back, the iron slipped

back into place, and the gate is then
secure. No hog can either raise or
open the gate. This gate is very
simple and inexpensive and is too
valuable for hog men to overlook.

A Practical Hog Farm Gate

I am not the man of the house, but
since my husband and I have spent
our twenty-six years of married life
on the farm, where we raise from 30O
to 500 hogs each year, I decided to
send you a draft of the kind of gates
we use. We have never found any-
thing yet in the line of gates that we
thought equal to this one. It does
not require a heavy post to hang on
and it is operated as easily by a child
as by a man. It saves much heavy
work in exchanging your hogs, and
if you should have horses or cattle
in the field and it is desired to per-
mit the hogs to enter the lot without
the cattle or horses getting thru, this
gate answers the purpose admirably.

This gate is operated wholly upon
the two flat iron pieces, one of which
is attached to the post and the other
to an iron strip on the opposite side
of the gate. A rod connects these
two iron pieces, thus forming a very
strong, indestructible hinge. Be-
tween the iron piece closest to the
gate and the iron strip there is a
pulley which operates upon a piece of
one-inch gas pipe, attached to the
gate as indicated in the diagram. To
open this gate you take hold of the
extended slat (which the artists failed
to indicate in the drawing, but which
is simply an extension of the third
slat on the end of the gate opposite
the hinge) and push the gate di-

Fifty-six

PART II

rectly from the latch post toward the
hinge post until the pulley is as far
toward the center brace of the gate
as it will go. It is a simple matter,
then, to swing the gate around off the
ground and free from interference of
cobs or other refuse.

Not the least feature of this gate is
the lower slide which is easily opened
to permit the passing of hogs and
sheep without the cattle or horses

getting thru. The diagram shows the
gate and hinge very clearly, and to
fasten this gate shut, merely allow
the extended third slat to drop over
a hook on the latch post.

I am sure that many will see the
real worth of this gate and have some
of this kind made, for I am sure
that none other will answer after
trying this kind.

MARION INO.

Fifty-seven

HOGOLOGY

A Portable Fence

BOLT-^ ;

WF.BOULUARC
GREENWOOD M.

The portable fence shown above, in
my opinion, is a very handy item of
hog farm equipment, and I have found
it especially convenient in separating
a sow before farrowing or to confine
them on certain feed patches, etc.
Many other ways, however, can be
found for the use of this fence.

In the construction, make a trian-
gular frame of 1 x 3 material, consist-
ing of base 18 inches long, upright
piece 4 feet 6 inches high, and brace

4 feet 3 inches long. Use four light
8-inch planks 16 feet and nail on out-
side of frame. Put frames eight feet
apart; make them in right and left
hand sections, and fasten together
with machine bolts at top and bottom
of each lap. This can be moved from
place to place anywhere on the farm
and will be found almost indispens-
able to the live stock raiser, especially
of hogs.

Fifty-eight

Chutes
For Loading

PART II

A Handy Hog Chute

The hog chute described here is
8 feet long and 30 inches across on
the inside, 2x4's and lx4's with boards
in bottom with cleats across. The up-
rights at upper end are 5 feet 6 inches,
and are made in two pieces with bolts
and extra holes so they can be adjusted

for either a wagon or a sleigh. There
are three cross pieces under bottom 5
feet long and extend 13 inches on each
side for nailing the braces to. No
cross pieces are necessary across the
top of the chute.

HARRY TIDEMAN, 'RENNER . 3. DAK.

Wheeled Hog Chute

If the stationary hog chute would
always be at the right place and would
not shelter so many weeds, I would,
perhaps, forget about its unsightli-
ness. But this is not the case, how-
ever, and that is the reason I devised
a light but strong chute and put it
on wheels so that I can take it any-
where on the farm to load hogs, etc..

and in case Neighbor "Jones" has no
chute I can tie it on the end of my
wagon and take it along, and when
thru using it, I can run it in the im-
plement shed where it is out of the
way and in shelter.

This chute is 10 feet long, 2J4 feet
wide, and 2 feet high (inside measure-
ment). There are three 1x4 boards on

Sixty-one

HOGOLOGY

each side bolted to the four standards
which fits into strap iron sockets.
The standards are of 2x4 material,
and the sills which hold the sockets
are 2x6. Four 2x4 cleats bolted un-
derneath support the floor which is
made of 2x1x12 boards placed length-
wise. Nail toe hold strips 6 inches
apart on the floor. Make an axle of
1}4 inch pipe of sufficient length to
fit a couple of old cultivator or other
suitable wheels. Then, use paint
freely, putting the finishing touch on
this useful article.

A New Idea Loading Chute

The diagram below shows my
home-made chute constructed 20 ft.
long with a gradual slope. At the
top and even with the wagon box I
have a two-foot turn where the hogs
go on the wagon. This turn takes those

hogs in the lead out of sight and the
hogs in the long chute follow as
though they were being driven into
another pen. I always bed the chute
and wagon box with straw, so it
seems like home to the hogs.

H.a. ERNST

Sixty-two

Slop Barrels

Troughs

Self Feeders

Automatic Waterers

PART II

This Method Saves Slop

Here is a slopping method that I
have used continuously for five years,
and that I would not be without. Fol-
lowing is the process of construction:

Bore a two-inch hole in barrel just
so the lower part of the hole will be
at the bottom; get a five-inch nipple,

there will be plenty of room for you
to stand when mixing slop. At slop-
ping time, stir slop up well, unscrew
cap from nipple and watch results.
Set trough as in illustration, and when
the pigs are let in thru open gate, they
will be equally divided on each side of

W.eARBER.— LEWISTOWN ILL,

and cap, with threads cut on both ends
of nipple. The nipple is screwed with
a pipe wrench into the barrel just so
it will go thru to the inside. Make
the bottom of platform just high
enough so it will clear the end board
of trough, and large enough so that
after the barrel is placed thereon.

the trough. By this method of slop-
ping, you can slop thirty or forty pigs
that will weigh 100 lbs. in a few min-
utes' time and without any waste of
slop. The slop is evenly distributed
the full length of the trough when the
pigs are turned in, thus giving each an
equal chance to "get their fill."

Sixty-five

HOGOLOGY

A Non-Freezing Slop Barrel

E.O.ETTER SCARK5. NCaR.

Make a trap door in feed room floor.
Dig a hole in the ground large enough
to place a barrel, the top of the barrel
below the level of the floor. Fit this
barrel with a tight lid which may be
held in place with one strap hinge. It
is an easy matter to put in ground feed
and matter which may be easily stirred
with a garden rake. Put one pail of hot
water in the feed just before feeding.
By keeping both lids fastened securely,
the feed will not freeze in the coldest
weather. If you have an engine in the
same room, the hot water from the
water jacket may be used in place of
the one pail of hot water.

Barrel Self-Feeder

W.C.CLARK ^ GOLD HILL VA.

This self-feeder is made of a salt
fish barrel, a tin lard can, and a
wooden box 2J4 inches square by 6
inches deep.

To- build, knock both ends from the
barrel and also both ends from the
tin can. Crush the tin can into the
shape of a funnel. Construct the box
of any suitable material 2J4 feet

square, 6 inches deep and nail the fun-
nel in the center, point up. Place the
barrel on four strong hardwood posts
the desired height from the floor
(mine are iyi inches). There should
be a covering on the barrel to keep
out trash and the weather.

This feeder has proven ideal on my
farm.

Sixty-six

PART II

A Barrel Self- Feeder

HU6HMULUK1N— FRANKLIN IND.

To make the self-feeder as indicated
by the sketch requires an old barrel with
both ends knocked out, a box three feet
square, made of ^ inch or 1 inch mate-
rial, with the side 6 or 7 inches high.
Have four right angle iron supports
made to elevate the barrel four inches
from the box bottom. These should be
bolted in to avoid coming loose. This
is a very efficient self-feeder and will
accommodate as many as nine big hogs.
It i* very cheap to construct, as nearly
every farmer has the desired materials
on hand.

Here Is Your Barrel Feeder

In constructing the feeder indicated
in the accompanying sketch, make a
platform 36 in. square, with four inch
sides, setting a good oil or kerosene
barrel in it. Have four strap irons
made 1J4 in. wide, 18 in. long, bent as
shown, bolting one end to the plat-
form and the other to the barrel. By
having several holes in the iron next
to the barrel, the flow of feed can be
regulated to flow as desired.

This makes a good feeder for
shelled corn and is cheap and durable.
You can easily afford to have sev-
eral of them. Each will accommo-
date fifty small pigs, as ten or fifteen
can eat at one time. I am using this
kind of a barrel feeder, and find it sat-
isfactory in every way.

FRANK
SHELLROCK.

Sixty-seven

HOGOLOGY

A Device for Feeding and Watering

We have had for the past few years
a device for feeding and watering hogs
which we have found both practical and
convenient. It consists of a feed trough,
a grass rack and a water trough
mounted on two pieces of joist so as to
form one end of the pen. Its construc-
tion is as follows: An ordinary V-
shaped trough has the lower corner of
each of its end pieces bolted to the up-
right, the uprights in turn being fastened

to the beam forming the base. Notches
are cut in the tops of these uprights to
hold the corner of the swinging gate
or panel. The bar is kept from jump-
ing out of the notches by pieces DD.
F serves as a brace between the up-
rights. Blocks E prevent the pigs push-
ing the gate and getting loose.

To feed pigs, the swinging panel is
pushed far enough for the catch to get
a "bite" on the side of the trough nearer

JOSEPH A.MAHONEY
ROCK LAN MASS.

Sixty-eight

PART II

the pigs, thus keeping them from inter-
fering when filling. A small block A
on the catch keeps the trough from be-
ing tipped by the pigs. After filling, the
gate is locked forward so the pigs can
eat. By pushing the panel way back and
grasping the bar L the trough may be
tipped outside for cleaning.

The grass rack is simple, being as
shown in the diagram, boards on the
outside^ and bars about 3 inches wide
on the inside. The ends are the uprights
of the feed trough and the water trough.

The water trough is different from the
feed trough by detail as shown in Fig.
3. The swinging gate shutting against
bar C serves the double purpose of
keeping the pigs in and preventing them
from tipping the trough. It may be
filled from the outside and pitched for
cleaning in the same manner as does the
feed trough. The farmers who build
this arrangement will be amply repaid
for their pains by the time and trouble
saved.

A Feeding Trough Gate

I have used the gate shown in the
accompanying sketch for ten years,
and find that where only a few hogs
are raised it is much easier to care
for them. By using this gate, all
pigs get at the feed at the same time,
and the feed may be distributed over
the trough so that each may get his
share. Incidentally, the use of this
gate saves a lot of cussing when you
are feeding the hogs in your Sunday
suit. If the gate is fixed so that it

will swing a little past the center of
the trough, the hogs will not be able
to get their feet in it. This can be
done by bolting a V-shaped piece to
the inside of the trough. I use only
flat troughs in connection with these
gates, as they save feed and are easy
on the feet of the pigs. I stretrfi
No. 9 wire across the trough to pre-
vent crowding. The diagram gives
full details of this gate and trough.

aAT BOTTOM
TROUOflS SAVE
FEED -ARE
EASY OW H005'
FEET.

TRANSFER , PENN.

Sixty-nine

HOGOLOGY

A Feeding Box

Any hog man knows the usual trou-
ble experienced in trying to feed a
bunch of hogs in the same pen with
them. This feeding gate overcomes
this evil. Trying 'to feed hogs as
above mentioned always results in at
least a pail of good, high-priced slop
on the pigs' backs and on the ground.
This device also saves the ■ feeder's
temper. The last and largest reason
is that if the hogs are all kept off the
feeding floor until the slop has been
equally distributed in the troughs, it
gives the runt of the herd equally as
good a chance to feed as has the larg-
est pig. This gate can also be

arranged to keep the brood sows out
and allow only the pigs to come in to
the troughs by lowering board No. 3,
as shown on figure, to the right
height.

The gate "A" works up and down
in the slots between the regular fence
posts C-P and auxiliaries D-X and
operated by the lever B, which can be
fastened at O with a loop of wire.
To avoid trouble, it is best to drop the
gate A some time before the hour for
feeding arrives. If the hogs get the
habit of raising the gate, it can be
remedied by a couple of hooks on the
posts C-P.

'SHOWING SLOT AT C-D-P-X
C D

I A.TOULIFR0(£i)-VIROqUA,WlS,

A. ToUifrou's Feeding- Gate. A is compact board gate working up and down in slots.
1-7 are boards of regular fence. F is gravity center of gate where lever B is
bolted.

Seventy

PART II

Feeding Trough

The man who slops his hogs or
feeds them out of a trough knows
that it is a difficult job. But this sim-
ple arrangement will be found indis-
pensable after it is given a trial.

0.S.OER.MU«i
ClAVTON MO.

Build the trough in the fence of
your hog lot. For the top, use a
2x8 plank. Then, place the gate so
that, it will swing clear, using inch
boards. Nail a cleat on each post so
that the gate cannot be pushed past
the trough. The strap iron shown
is so shaped that it will fit in the
trough, and lock the hogs out while
you prepare the feed, or clean out
the trough, or allow them access to
the trough. I consider this trough the
most handiest device I have in my hog
lot.

This Stops Spilled Slop

H.D.VAN MATRE, HIBXILETOWN. IND.

This device is a gate suspended over
the slopping trough, and by means of
a piece of strap iron with two loops
in it, the gate can be so placed that
the hogs cannot have access while it
is being filled, when No. 1 loop is

hooked over the edge of the trough.
While the hogs are drinking, No. 2
loop is hooked over the edge of the
trough. You will find this will save
dirty clothes spotted with slop be-
sides not a little "cussing."

Seventy-one

HOGOLOGY

Another Good Hog Trough

J. C BOSTWICK
HOYT, KANS.

I make a V-shaped hog trough any
length up to 16 feet out of 2 inch
plank, one 2x8 and one 2x10, then I
make a box by using two pieces of
1x12 board 18 inches long and with a
drawing knife trim off each side of
the trough and nail on the two boards.
Then nail the cross boards to each
of the 18 inch boards and leave the
end open thru which you pour the.

slop. This end of the trough should
be somewhat higher than the other
end so that the slop will run freely
thru the trough. Do not put any
cross pieces on the trough to be in
the way.

I can feed forty shotes or 20 av-
erage size hogs in a 12 foot trough of
this kind and never do I have to fight
them away.

A Convenient Hog Trough

JAMES NJSSLEV
PENiaeRTON, OHIO

The hog trough shown in the
drawing above is very convenient as
it can be used near the fence or in
a lot among the pigs, and the pigs
cannot interfere with the hog man in
pouring the slop into the trough.

The upright is a piece of wooden

pump stock 3 or syi feet high nailed
in the trough so as to let the slop
out on each side. An old wash pan
is nailed on the top of the pump
stock with a hole in bottom, thru
which the slop is poured into the
trough.

Seventy-two

PART II

A Hog House Trough

This hog house trough is for slop
and dry feed, and I find it a feeding
device that is very convenient, as it is
always ready for use.

"A," as will be seen by the sketch,
is a 1x12 oak board. "B" is a 1x13
oak board set in at an angle extend-
ing down between the posts from the
bottom of board "A" to within two
inches of the top and an inch or two
below the aisle board "D." The board
"B" directs the slop or dry feed into
the trough.

"C" is a 2x6 oak plank with hole in
bottom to set on iron pin in cement
base about four inches wide. This
plank extends upward to ceiling.
These posts can be set as close to-

gether as desired; mine are about
8 feet apart. I also have shift parti-
tions, and use these troughs at far-
rowing time. The partitions can be
removed and the entire floor can be
used for feeding hogs. ,

"D" is a 1x12 oak board set with
bottom edge a little over back edge
of trough. This guides the slop and
feed into the trough in front of the
pig's nose.

"E" is a cement trough nine inches
on the aisle side, 13 inches wide and
6 inches on the pen side. The inside
of the trough is made with a form,
and is shaped before the cement sets;
1 to 3 cement and fine sand is used.

Seventy-three

HOGOLOGY

A Trough That Pigs Like

I have a hog trough that works to a
frazzle. Every hog man knows the
trouble he has slopping a bunch of
healthy shoats when he has to go into
the pen to pour the slop. With the

high side of the trough sticking under
the fence a few inches, the pail can be
emptied without the operator being
overrun with pigs. This is very simple,
but at the same time very valuable.

WAT30N, MO.

A Sanitary Trough

To make the above described trough
take two planks 1x12 twelve feet long
and nail them together in a half square.
Take two 1x12 two foot long boards

and nail to the ends. Nail strips 1x3
inches across the top. Attach wire as
shown above. No. 9 wire will answer
the purpose.

Seventy-four

PART II

A Hog Trough

Material required for making this
trough is as follows : Two 3x8 10 ft.
long for sides; 1 2x12 14 ft. long for
the bottom and ends; one 2x4 11 ft.
long for top guard; one J4x8-inch but-
ton with couter pin ; and four J4xl6 in.

bolts for ends of trough. Mortise hole
in one end of two by four, use pin bolt
in the other end. The guard may be
easily removed in cleaning trough and
prevents the hogs from wallowing in it.

e. O. ETTER,

SPARKS. NEBR

An Ideal Hog Trough

This hog trough doesn't need con-
siderable description regarding its
construction, as the sketch on the next
page makes all details very plain.

The trough can be made any length
desired, and the beauty of it is you
need no fence around it, as the hopper

extends the full length of the trough.
You can dump in a bucket of slop at
once without spilling and without
getting it all over the hog's head.
The hogs cannot get their feet in the
trough.

The gable is bolted on the main
trough or the V in the center, using

Seventy-jive

HOGOLOGY

two wagon box straps. The main
body is supported with braces made
from old wagon tires; these are bolted
on the inside of the trough. Two of
them are sufficient on a ten or twelve
foot trough, but three are necessary
for the sixteen feet length.

This trough is especially valuable

for the poorly equipped hog farm be-
cause it is very economical and sani-
tary, and there is no waste in using
it. It can be moved about from yard
to yard by tacking two fence boards
on the bottom, using these as skids.
Such a trough will last indefinitely if
properly constructed.

The Ideal Hog- Trough Descrlhed
Above, by A, N. Vogue

A Feeder for Hogs

I present a plan of a feeder that I
have used for a number of years, find-
ing it very satisfactory. It proves
equally satisfactory with slop and dry
feed. In feeding slop one can feed it
without the pigs getting into the pail.

Neither is it necessary to smear the pigs
with slop.

I make these feeders sixteen feet long.
I use three lx8's, D. & M., 8 in. for the
bottom, with seven 2x4 22-inch long
cross-pieces; two 2x4's for the sides;

Seventy-six

PART II

iXS

V^-ft=t^ T-^^:^ '^C?^ ,

^ \ 1X8

r^^^^te==y

Kt/

^"^^jy!::^

1 IM_, 1 ^ ■■■ «»— ' ^

^Jax,

%=' l6 - C.R.. PINNEY, ARMOUR, S.D.

and two 2x6's for the ends; four 2x8s
two feet long for uprights in chute ; and
four lx8s D. & M. eight inches for
chute.

Have the lumber perfectly dry; cut
the cross-pieces and nail the bottom
boards firmly to them. Then nail the
bottom to the 8x4 sides and fit in the
ends. Shape the four 2x8 uprights eight
inches wide at the upper end and three
inches at three inches from the lower
end. This makes the chute three inches

wide at three inches from the bottom of
the trough. Spike the end uprights to
the end cross-pieces and toenail the two
center ones to the bottom above the
cross-pieces. Then the thing is done,
and if care has been taken in its mak-
ing, this trough should be water-tight
with a little soaking. I always bore a
hole in one end and set that end a trifle
lower to permit cleaning out the trough
and to allow the draining of rain water.

A Convenient Trough

H.E.COEMBEL
PR0PHET3T0WN

For feeding and slopping pigs I use
a flat bottom trough made of a foot
plank, for the bottom 2x6 nailed on the
side of plai^ and slanted out a little

at the top; fit in the ends and spike
securely. Then cut two-foot boards 20
inches long to stand upright in ends of
trough, and two 8-inch boards same

Sevenfy'Seven

HOGOLOGY

length as trough placed in "V" shape
over trough and nailed to end boards
with upper outside edge at upper cor-
ners of end upright boards and bottom
of "V" about 6 inches apart. Then
cut from 6-inch fencing pieces to nail
to outside of "V" and notched to set
on edge of trough 7 inches apart.
This gives each pig a fair chance and

I find I have many less runts than any
other plan I have seen. I have two of
these troughs 20 feet long and that will
accommodate 100 pigs. I place a couple
of boards to walk on across the top of
these feeders and do not need to "scrap"
with the pigs, as I can put the slop in
troughs anywhere through these "V"
shaped boards the length of the trough.

A Water Boiler Hog Trough

A first-class hog trough can be
made from hot water boilers (as
shown by the sketch below) which
often crack from some cause, and are
of no value to the junk man. When
cut in two pieces, you have two
splendid hog troughs. If there is no
discarded boiler on your place, go to
the junk man — they can be bought
for fifty cents.

' BART ». .STITH , ELIZ*BETHTOWN , KY,

Seventy-eighi

PART II

A Handy Slop Chute

Nail four boards, 1x10 inches 3 feet
long toegther in a square. Stand one
end in the trough and nail against a
post securely. Pour the slop thru the
chute into the trough. You can do this
without getting the slop on your clothes.

An Individual Slop Pan

The sketch below shows an indi-
vidual slop pan that I have used with
great success for a number of years.
It is made from 18 gauge galvanized

tin, reinforced by quarter inch rods
around the top, the tin being bent
over the rod. I have had 800-pound
hogs lie on this kind of a pan without

Seventy-nine

HOGOLOGY

any damage being done, and I have
used the same pan for eight years.

I use this pan quite extensively for
sows and pigs, and I find that the
pigs will learn to drink a week or
two sooner than when they are forced
to climb over the edge of a high

trough. The pan is also very con-
venient to rid of ice when water
freezes in it; just lift up and let it fall
top side down and the ice drops out.
It is also handy to carry from one
place to another. I had the tinsmith
make these pans to order.

A Home-Made Self Feeder

_-.H. TIFFANY
niDDLEBUBG, VA

The sketch shows a roughly con-
structed self-feeder with three bins
attached. This can be attached to
either inside or outside of hog house.
The three bins are separate, and each
is provided with a sliding door to

regulate the feed. I find the bins
save both labor and feed, and help
the farmer to make more economical
gains on his hogs; 60 ft. of one-inch
plank is the bill of material; time,
two hours; material cost, about $8.50.

Eighty

PART n

Revolving Hog Feeder

-- -s

?#^. '^^ t£-, /-J^ «^^^'^ iV"-.^'"

Fred Knop, Charter Oak, Iowa, has found this revolving hog feeder a very service-
able Item of equipment

I evolved a revolving hog feeder
this winter and it works like a top.
It not only gives them feed, but gives
each hog an opportunity to work for
his living, and it is suprising to see
them stand there for hours exercising
for their food. It is the most useful
invention I ever had on the farm.

The feeder shown is 16 feet long,
the trough below the hopper is 18
inches wide and aj^ inches ' igh. The
feed hopper is made about 4 inches
shorter than the trough so that it fits
exactly between the two end boards.
The feed hopper consists of eight

lx4's nailed on an octagon-shaped
board, one of which is allowed to
slide in order that feed may be put
in. The octagonal boards are put
in four feet apart, on which there is
a square loop to provide for removing
the loose board. Thru the center of
the hopper there is a half inch gas
pipe extending thru the end boards in
holes cut 18 inches from the trough.
A crack of about one-eighth inch
must be left between the lx4's to per-
mit the feed to fall out when the
hopper is rooted around by the hogs.

Eighty-one

HOGOLOGY

A Pig Feeder

ENNeS BECKHAM,
JULPHUR SPRINSS. ttHAS,

I give you a description of what I
call a first class pig feeder. It is an
invention of my own and no doubt
will be of value to others. I find it is
a very convenient apparatus, for feed-
ing and handling pigs. , This feeder
is especially useful at weaning time
when it becomes necessary to give
special attention to the feeding of the
pigs in order to prevent stunting.
The holes in the front of the apparatus
admit the pigs and keep the larger
hogs out, thus keeping the larger hogs
from mashing the pigs and also from
eating the pigs' feed.

To use it, cut a small gap in the
fence where the hogs are enclosed
and put the feeder on the outside of
the fence with the front of it in the
gap in the fence. This enables you
to feed the pigs without getting in the
pen with the hogs. There is a drop

door in front of the feeder which may
be dropped down over the entrance
to shut the pigs up if you want to
catch them. The feeder also has many
other advantages which I will not
mention.

To construct it, first make a flat
wooden box any size you wish. Be
sure to have it large enough for a
trough and have room for your pigs.
Leave one of the flat sides open for
the top and cover this with poultry
wire, leaving a door through which to
put the feed. Then cut your holes in
the front of the box for your pigs to
go through. Now make a drop door
for closing the holes. This gives a
wooden floor to feed the pigs on and
may be moved from one hog pen to
another. This, I think, is the handiest
thing that I have ever seen for
handling pigs.

Eighty-two

PART II

Inexpensive But Practical Hog Waterer

One of the handiest things I have
on the farm for the comfort and
good of the hogs is a very simple
hog waterer which is inexpensive aad
practical and can be installed for four
or five dollars. It is very useful
the year round if placed in a protected
place, and can be attached to any
supply tank or common drinking tank.
The barrel in Fig. 1 must have a
small pen around it and covered with
straw and stable manure to prevent
freezing. On real cold mornings, it
will be necessary to break the ice,
and if there are many hogs, they will

keep it open all day no matter how
cold. A circular one inch board must
be fastened to the cross pieces shown
in Fig. 4 around the inside of the
barrel to keep the pigs from drowning
when small.

Barrel No. 2 can be placed any-
where, but a position where the
lot fence can run across barrel is
preferable, for in this way hogs can
be watered on both sides. I have
tried these for seven years and would
not think of doing without this meth-
od of watering my stock.

FIG. 4

W. E. STANCLIFFE
ALEDO, ILL.

W. B. StanoUffe's Watering System.

Eighty-three

HOGOLOGY

Cement for Water Troughs

-BOARD OVER END

CONCRETE FORM

J^ A. HESS
YORKSHIRE. O.

I want to tell of an easy way to
make cement water or slop troughs
Make your form of boards 15 in.
wide and dig trough or- foundation
out 15 in. deep and as long as you
desire the trough to be. Board up
the form and slush in cement and
sand three and one, and then use
eight-inch tile for your form. After
you get it half full of cement, lay
tile in and put a board at end of tile.
Fix the tile so that half of it is above
the top surface of the trough. Slush
in with cement, and leave tile in until
the cement has set a little. Then
remove the tile and you have a nice
round bottom in the trough. I find
such a trough very easy to clean.

Automatic Hog Waterer

In making this hog waterer, con-
nect a supply tank on the farm which
has fresh water in it always and has
fall enough to get the water to the
hog, with a common barrel in the
ground by means of an inch pipe run
three feet underground. Use a float
in the barrel to regulate the flow of
water into this receptacle. Then con-
nect the barrel with a trough on the
level with the water edge, using one
about one foot wide, ten inches deep
and about three feet long, so several

hogs can drink at the same time.
When desired, one end of the trough
can be put through a fence and allow
two bunches of hogs to drink from
the same place at one time.

This is the best method of water-
ing hogs that I know of. It saves its
cost many times, and is especially
convenient when you are away from
home, for no matter how late you re-
turn, the pigs always have water be-
fore them.

Eighty-four

Hog Houses
and Pens

-rir— Rn— m^iii^Hir— HH— NN— IK— NN— an— ^M^an-^ii— Hii^ii ■*i»— iih— mt^yi-^i^ i

PART II

Sun Brooder for Early Pigs

I have found the brooder shown by
the drawing here to be very val-
uable to me, and I recommend it to
every breeder of hogs whether he has
a heated building or not, for there is
nothing equal to the sun's rays for
growing pigs.

A frame was built just like a hot
bed, the lower side being one foot
high and the upper two feet high.
The frame was built tight so that no
cold air could get thru the cracks,
and storm windows were placed on
top, hinged to the upper side so they
could be raised a little if the air got
too foul.

This brooder was fastened to the
hog house on a level with the floor.
A creep was cut, just large enough
for the litle pigs to pass thru, in
the wall of the hog house and plenty
of clean dry straw placed in the
brooder.

It was surely a pleasure to watch
the little fellows stretch out in their
warm nest. When the old sows would
call them, they would all run to their
meals and then back to their sun par-
lors.

I believe it is worth any man's
money to build something of this sort
if he is farrowing pigs in early spring.

A sun brooder for early pigs used
\>Y R. W. Hodgson, Rushmore, Minn.

I regret that the pigs shown in the
picture were white; it was taken be-
fore I came into the Duroc ranks.

Eighty-seven

HOGOLOGY

A House That Keeps 'Em Warm in Winter

FRANK jROMMERT
NEW PETERSBURG , O

CEMENT FLOOB

This is an illustration of a farrow-
ing pen for sows in bad weather. The
boxes in my opinion are about the
right size, but can be made any size.
The shed can be any length and par-
titioned to suit the builder. A con-
crete floor divided into sections (one
for each stall) is built in front of the
shed and the sow is fed on this floor.
There is also a door in the rear of
each stall where bedding can be taken
out or put in while the sow is eating
on the floor outside. The roof is
framed with a ridge pole and the sash
are hinged to this, being raised at the

eaves when ventilation is necessary;
concrete feeding floor is fenced and
divided with gates, making a sepa-
rate feeding space for each sow.

A house to store feed and bedding
can be built at one end and may be
provided with a stove or cooker to
make warm slop and the smoke pipe
may be carried through the shed high
enough for the sows to walk under
and connects with a flue at the far end.
A drum in the pipe for each stall
would keep pigs from freezing in any
weather.

Eighty-eight

PART II

A Sunshine Hog House and Crowding Board

Figure No. 2. The Crowding Board

Fig. 1 shows my sunshine hog
house made with 3x6 oak runner and
8x4 frame, covered with ship lap sid-
ing (14-foot siding is used). I find
this a great house for little pigs, as
they can always get a sun bath in the
cold weather. This house is very
handy for the hog man, as he can
enter to clean it out without diffi-
culty.

Fig. 3 shows a crowding board on
T hinges, which I use in my hog
houses. It can be let down at far-
rowing time and raised when the
house is used for the larger hogs,
making a great deal more room. It
should be made from a board V-Aif-t
inches wide, and the board should be
of hardwood so that it will hold the

Figure No. 1. A Sunshine Hog House

Bighty-nine

HOGOLOGY

Farrowing House With Pen

A farrowing house like the one
shown in the accompanying illustra-
tion is built six feet square, using
2x4 studding for frame and siding,
with six-inch flooring. The frame is
made 30 in. high on back side, 4 ft.
in front, which faces south and is
left open. The other three sides are
sided, making a good, warm house.

The pen is made 6x10 ft. in front of
the house, with a door in the end to

shut the pigs in to ring or catch them.
To make the frame cut two posts 30
in. long, two 4 ft. long, and eleven nail
ties 6 ft. long, spiking them to posts,
three on the back, three on each and
two in front, putting one at the top
and one high enough for a sow to
walk under.

I keep my sows in a separate lot,
one sow in each, and use iron troughs,
only, which I think is the best.

tt.W. KINNEV
fiOORESVILl-E I NO.

House and Pen for Herd Boar or Farrowing Sow

I give a description and plant of a
bungalow and pen which I think is
not excelled for comfort and safety
for the herd boar. The complete
construction of same requires 450 feet
of lumber, six fence posts 7 feet long,
a pair of strap hinges, 10 pounds 8
penny nails, one pound spikes, two

pounds shingle nails, 800 shingles.
The house requires 150 feet of lumber
13 feet long for siding 60 feet lum-
ber 8 feet long for floor; one plank
Sx6 la feet long, one plank 2x6 8 feet
long for lower nail ties and sleeper
for floor; the end nail ties serve for
end sleepers; four 2x4s 10 feet long

Ninety

PART II

MARTIN BEHL

MARTtMSVILLB, ILL

for rafters, the two outside rafters
used for nail ties; one 3x4 IS feet long
and one 2x4 6 feet long for plates and
nail tie. The house is 6x8x6j4 feet
high at front, 4 feet in rear. Two
feet down from roof in front a nail
tie is set in and weatherboarding is
used 2 feet long, except at corners
where a board extends to floor, 1 foot
wide, making the entrance 4x4 feet.
Use 17 lath 14 feet long for shingling.
Just inside building above entrance is
a shelf 18 inches wide used for bale
of straw and a sack of corn to feed.

The pen at the front is 7x12 feet.
The two posts at building are just out-
side the corners flush with end of
building. Posts are set 3 feet in the
ground. Ten boards 1x6 13 feefr long
are used for sides of pen, and 5 boards

1x6 8 feet long for gate. If the build-
ing and pen are located permanently,
nail boards to posts and hang gate to
post. If they are to be moved about,
the sides should be made as the gate
and wired to posts. The gate should
be hung on side gate so as to he
folded for moving. To fasten gate,
use wire at top and bottom. As a far-
rowing pen this serves the purpose
admirably.

The boar pen should be placed in a
large lot on opposite side from where
he is fed, facing south. I move the
buildings and pen where needed for
sows to farrow in and sleeping
quarters for hogs. When I leave home
I leave the boar locked in pen and
then I know where he will be when I
return.

Ninety-onr

HOGOLOGY

Houses and Pens for Sows and Litter

When farrowing time comes in the
spring and we have a large number of
sows to take care of, it is always quite
a problem to figure out some method
of handling them.

The plan that I am presenting has
been used a great many years with
success. The illustration shows my
arrangement of houses and pens.

Take 6-inch fencing plank 14 to 16
feet long and make a square pen. For
posts I use 2x4s, standing them on
end and nailing boards on sides, mak-

ing the pen four boards high. On this
pen I join four others, as shown by
the diagram. On the outside corners
of the four pens I place the houses.
This arrangement makes room for
four sows that will farrow near the
same time. Each sow will have her
own pen to run in, and they will be
quite a distance apart. The hog houses
will be set with the high side to the
south. (I like the house with the roof
sloping one way.) The high side of
this house is 6 feet and it is 4 feet 6

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)
CREtP

HOUSE-

«EEPS

H06 HOUSE-

O.W.BuiichdUtr'

w-|-e

Ninety-two

PART II

inches at the eaves, making an 18-inch
fall. I use the Rubberoid roofing.

The floor space is 6x8 feet with a
door on the south side just below the
roof. This door runs across the build-
ing and is 5 feet long and 2 feet wide.
The door can be let down in nice
weather, which will allow the sun to
shine on the pigs. The door thru
which the hogs run should be at the
east end of the house.

The house is built on two 4x4 run-
ners and can be moved from place to
place. This plan of hog pens can be
moved about from field to field along
with the houses.

It will be seen by the sketch that
there are creeps on all four sides of
the middle pen and on one side of the
four outside pens. At an early age
these pigs will go into the lots with
their dams and very soon will find

each other and have their little scraps
and then make up. It will be an easy
matter to get them to eat in their
pens, and my, how they do grow!
Raising pigs with such an arrange-
ment of pens and houses will elimi-
nate many of your runts, as the litters
will know their own mothers, which
prevents their robbing one another.

The creeps on the outsid« of the
outer pens is to allow pigs that may
be running in the same field to go in
and out. This will save a great deal
of work for hog men, especially those
who have recently gone into the hog
business, as the new man is usually
crowded for room.

For hauling my slop and feed to the
sows and pigs, I use a small sled with
a barrel fastened on it. This is drawn
by a horse.

Colony House and Pen for the Pigs

This hog house and pen has, in my
estimation, been most satisfactory
and economic in all ways.

The box is made of % siding. First
make a square base 6 feet by 6 feet
and 6 inches high. The slant and
beam are made of 2 x 4 studding.
The height of the box from the
ground to the cone of the roof is
four feet. The front door should be
cut aa inches x 20 inches and hang so
that it will swing around to the right.
A small door 10 inches x 14 inches is
cut in the back 18 inches from the
ground. This, opened in spring and

summer, furnishes a chance for air
circulation in the house. Wooden
buttons hold these doors shut.

Make a platform of flooring 6 feet
4 inches x 6 feet 4 inches. In the
winter and spring this should be set
right on to the ground, naturally
drained, so that no wind or air cur-
rents can circulate under it to keep
the floor cold. Place the box on this
platform and bed with straw. The
approximate cost of this box and
platform is eight dollars.

Next, construct a board run 5 feet
X 6 feet 6 inches in front of the box

Ninety-three

HOGOLOGY

riAJiT b. n&coy , wAAMiNarON. C.H., ONiO-

of any boards which one happens to
have handy. This keeps the pigs off
the ground and yet gives them access
to some exercise, air and sunshine.
A fence of rough boards of any kind
in front and at the side of each box
keeps each sovir and litter separately.
I have had as many as twenty of
these houses and pens in one colony.
I raised 2.25 pigs last spring and my
loss was very slight.

These boxes are very easily kept

free from vermin and filth. The proc-
esses of feeding is not such a bug-
bear with this arrangement. I have
a slop cart which I drive along in
front of each box or colony. Another
good feature is that it is portable and
can be changed to other quarters
without much trouble, and can be
used at all seasons of the year. I
have always had better success in
saving and caring for my pigs in this
way than in any other.

A Cheap Movable Farrowing House

T t. KINNEY , WOHTH ADAn^. fllC

HOG MOUic raAne

This hog house is 7 feet square on
the ground with two uprights 2x4 at
each end and one running around the
outside about half way up the side, so
the sides cannot be pushed off from
the inside. Leave a ventilation hole at
each end of the peak. This could be
closed in extra cold weather. Cover this
with matched lumber.

Ninety-foHr

PART II

The Wigwam Hog House

For an ordinary sow lay a floor 7
feet square on four hedge poles. Most
any kind of lumber will do as it is in
the dry. Nail the roofing boards on
the sides the way the floor poles run,
and extend them 3 inches over the edge
of the floor. Use long nails to go thru

the floor boards to catch in poles.
About the middle on the inside nail a
1x4 to hold the boards together. End
up the back end with ship-lap, leaving
a 4 or 5 inch opening at the top for
ventilation. Set up 2x4's in front end
as wide as you want your door. Then
put on ship-lap to the height you want
the door. Cleat and saw out the door.
If more sun is desired you could cut
window above the door. On back end,
on the inside, nail a 2x6 across about
10 inches from the floor, so the young
pigs can get behind this to be kept
from being crowded by the sow.

Portable "A" Shaped Hog House

The two drawings show the details
of my A-shaped portable hog houses
in which my brood sows farrow. I
am using these in my business for
early farrowing, and I find that a
larger percentage of pigs can be raised
with less trouble to the breeder.

Oru J. tliller
Delhi , Iowa..

Such houses are easily constructed,
cheaply built, and with proper care
will last for years. They can be lined
up in a row and banked with straw
on the back side and in between the
houses which makes them very warm
even during the coldest days. A gal-

Nineiy-five

HOGOLOGY

vanized ventilator and window makes
the house healthy for the dam and
litter.

When the pigs are a few days old,
the pens in front may be used by the
youngsters, which insures that they
receive a good amount of fresh air,
sunshine and exercise. If my pigs fail
to take exercise in these pens, I force
them to do so by driving them.

The cost of this house at present
prices of lumber is about $15, com-
plete, without the pen. The house can
be drawn by a team of horses to your

warmest location. I find that they
are splendid for brood sows to sleep
in before farrowing. Three or four
can sleep in each house, and they will
not pile up on cold nights. The only
trouble with this house is that there
are not more of them in use. Build
one of them and you will build more.

Orii J. Miller
Delhi, low4.

A Portable Lot

irrvrr. npDvCNfoa. va-

The material required to make this
portable fence or lot is sixteen pieces
of plank 8 feet long; 6x1 inch for the
sides ; eight pieces of plank 3 feet long,
6x1 inch for the corner strips, four
pairs of hinges, four sets of hooks,
staples and nails for the two divisions
or whole lot.

Ninety-six

PART II

10X12
FEED ROOM

-A

8X12

PEN

8Xr2

PEN

8X12
PEN

IZLriAZj

II FEED II TROUGHS 1 1

PLATFORM IN FRONT a-^FTWlDE-.

AAA — doors; CCC — offset 8 Inches wide around pens to prevent pigs from being
mashed. This house is used by Earl H. Tiffany, Middleburg, Virginia.

Farrowing House

The building as sketched above is
spendid for winter farrowing. Fac-
injg the south, it is comfortable in the
coldest weather; it furnishes plenty
of sunshine, good ventilation and

never becomes damp. The building is
50 feet long and 12J4 feet wide. The
material requirements are 1,200 feet
of plank and 500 feet of 2x4s. The
cost is about $125.

Ninety-seven

HOGOLOGY

Farrowing Pen and Colony House

A properly designed and well built
farrowing pen and colony house is
well nigh indispensable on a farm
where hogs are raised.

The average pen designed to fill
this need is too cheap, dangerous,
and a makeshift. There are few farms
where a good farrowing pen will not
pay for itself each season. One good
pig six months old will pay for one
twice over.

The colony house and_ farrowing
pen illustrated, we think, cannot
be improved on. It contains about
every good feature we have ever
seen, and is just as we have used
it in recent years. It gives the maker
latitude as to length, width and
height. A pane of glass can be put
in the peak of the gable or not. The
house should be well built of good
material and painted, as it is a valu-
able piece of hog farm furniture.

The essentials are:

Foundation — Skids of 2x4x8 feet,
laid flat and rounded up at the ends.

Floor — One inch sound boards, no
unsound, knots, shakes or sap.

Uprights — 2x4s, three on a side, and
one at middle of rear end and one
each side of end door. 2x4 plates and
2x4 in roof peak.

Enclosed — With six-inch drop sid-
ing. Do not use wider siding, as it
will shrink and allow cracks between
boards.

Roof — Rain and windproof. We use
good matched pine flooring. With
the opening in the end to the east,
the door in the roof will be on the
south side. You cannot very well
make this door too large, as we want
lots of sunlight. The caretaker can
enter thru this roof door without

' i. 8'

J. J. Jones finds this farrowing: pen combines all ^ood features.

Ninety-eight

PART II

the danger of being caught in the
doorway by an excited hog rushing
in or out. The roof door permits sun-
light in all parts of the pen and easy
access at all times, and this is espe-
cially valuable at farrowing time and
feeding time, and means a consider-
able increase in percentage of pigs
raised to litter.

While using this style pen, we had
an average of nine living pigs per
litter. We made a considerable move
and were permitted the use of a bunch
of A-shape pens. Our sows dropped
just as many pigs, but we raised on
average of two less pigs to the litter.
This multiplied by sixteen sows meant
a considerable loss. We have listened
to men of wide reputation as hog
breeders ridicule the idea of a guard
rail on the theory properly fitted sows

need no attention at farrowing time,
that the natural sow mother will go
a-jvay into the woods and heap up a
pile of leaves and come home in a
few days with a 100 per cent litter.

We have seen that done, but we
are not now raising hogs under those
conditions, but a highly specialized
hog under artificial conditions that
requires that the herdsman get all
around the sow and, if need be, close
the door after him, and hang up his
lantern and camp for all night
thru rain and snowstorm.

Nail 2x4 pieces horizontal to the
studding, the pieces 7 and 8 inches up
from the floor. Nail guard rail to this
as per cut. Rail can be of 8x4 stuff.
This pen can be moved around read-
ily.

A Portable Hog Pen

This is a portable pen that can be
taken down in sections as shown here-
with. To make this pen requires no
special mechanical ingenuity, but only
a little ca're and plenty of "elbow
grease." These pens can be made in
any size desired, but the description
given here is for a pen 9x12 feet, made
in two separate pens by the addition
of a cross section. To make this pen
will require the following bill of lum-
ber, which should be dressed and
sized so as to make a neater fit:

13 pes. ^ inch by 6^ inches by 18
feet, for boards.

18 pes. f4 inch by 6^ inches by B
feet, for boards.

44 pes. J4 inch by 3 inches by 44
inches, for stiles.

4 pes. ^ inch by 3 inches by 89^
inches, for gates.

8 pes. H inch by 6}4 inches by 84
inches, for gates.

4 pes. 2 inches by 3 inches by 44
inches rabbeted, 1 inch wide and 1
inch deep.

To make this pen for the back,
place the top and bottom boards on
three inch strips 44 inches long (A
and B), having the left hand ends
above and flush with the stiles, the
right hand ends being under and ex-
tending iyi inches beyond the itilei.

Ninety-nine

HOGOLOGY

a
a

h
A

(81

(» BOARD 3/1 *.S^'/>.-

' ' ,

1. ■

n L7

FIG. 5

FRONT '''C =■ '■""■

ROSS V. BUSH CAMILLA . GA.

A Convenient Portable Pen that Ross V. Bush of Camilla, Georgia, finds mighty
handy arouncj the hog farm

Next place the other four planks on
the stiles and space them as follows:
Between the bottom board and one
above it one inch, between the top
board and the one below it four inches,
and two inches between all the others,
this gives a total height of 44 inches
when completed, the left ends of the
four boards must extend 4J^ inches
beyond the stiles and the right hand
end must be flush with the stiles, mark
the distance from outside to outside
of the stiles A and B, set back three-
quarters of an inch on each side and
place two more stiles here, so that
there will be a space of an inch and
one-half between these stiles, saw out
top and bottom boards between these
stiles, making them flush with the
stiles, now nail three inch strips on
the remaining right hand end as
shown in Fig. 3, this will give one
and one-half inch clearance for the
side pieces to lock into as shown in

Fig. 6, this completes the back of the
pen. To make the front, proceed as
above except allow 24 inches or less
for the doors on either sides of the
two stiles in the center, and it will
be necessary to use two additional
stiles to nail the planking to, as shown
in Fig. 3. Next take four pieces 2
inches by 3 inches rabbeted 1 inch
deep and 1 inch wide, nail them flush
with the top and bottom boards and
have the rabbeted side next to the
boards, this will give a clearance for
gates of 40 inches. Allowing one-
half inch for ease of operation, take
two pieces J4 iich by 3 inches by
39 J4 inches, stand them upright in
the rabbeted places and nail board
34 inch by 5^4 inches by 24 inches
across them. Space them as are the
boards in the pen with the addition
of hasps and staples on gates and cen-
ter stiles, this completes the front.

One Hundred

PART II

The side and center partitions are
made exactly as are the backs, ex-
cepting that only one stile is neces-
sary in the enter. This will give
added strength and prevent the boards
from warping. After the pen is com-
pleted, place the right hand ends in
and at right angles to each other,
having the front and back parallel
and the center and side partitions at
right angles to them. After the pen

is put together, bore holes in the left
hand ends so as to fit pegs behind
the stiles, this locks the pen and
makes it stable. These pens can be
built in one, two or any number de-
sired, and any number of pens can be
added as needed, they can be built in
an "L" shape, "T" shape or in rows
with a lane of any desired width be-
tween them.

A Portable Corn Crib With Feeding Pen

I will give you a description of
two devices I use in connection with
each other.

One is a portatble corn crib, shown
by the sketch, made as follows: For
the foundation, have two 4x6 ten feet

long, slope one end of these like a
sled runner, place these two runners
5 feet apart; a cross piece 3x6 five
feet long should be placed at each
end of the runners, and mortised into
the runners. A ^4 inch hole should be

H.W. CLAYTON, BARDWELt.KY.

A Portable Corn Crib.

One Hundred One

HOGOLOGY

H.V.CLAYTON, BARDWELL , KY.

The Feed Pen that H. W. Clayton uses in connection with his portable corn crib.

bored in the middle of the 3x6
that is placed at the sloping end
of the runners for a device, These
should all be of some kind of
wood, and should be covered with
good solid flooring. The fram-
ing should be about six feet high and
should be of some kind of durable
braced. Have a door in one end of
the crib l8 inches from the floor and
extending to the top. The framing
can be covered with any light ma-
terial you have at hand, but iron
roofing is best as the crib can be
made rat proof with this by cover-
ing the floor also with roofing.

The roof can be made of any kind
of light material and should be made
on hinges, so that it can be raised
.when you get ready to scoop your
corn into the crib as this is much
easier than throwing it in at the
door. Tins crib will hold 50 or 60
bu. of corn in the ear, and when
empty, can be drawn by two horses
anywhere about the farm.
The Feed Pen

In connection with this crib I use
a portable feed pen made on two
runners. These should be 4x6's 30

or 35 feet long and should be placed
8 or 9 feet apart, depending on the
width of the gates thru which you
will want to carry this pen. These
runners should be sloped at both ends
like sled runners. A 3x6 cross
piece should be placed at both ends
of the runners and one in the middle;
these should be mortised into the run-
ners. A 3x3 inch post 38 inches high
should be placed at each corner of
this foundation and one in the middle
of each of the runners. One post
should be placed 18 inches from the
corner, this is for the door.

A 3x4 railing should be placed on
top of these posts running all the
way around the pen, then, the posts
should be well braced. Now take
heavy grade 6 inch stay wire, 33 inch
American wire fencing, and stretch
around this, leaving the 18 inch door
as described; this should be an ad-
justable door made to lower and raise
to admit either pigs or large hogs.
There should be a partition in the
middle of this pen, with a door like
the one in the end. This pen, like
the crib, can be drawn by two horses
to any place on the farm. By keeping

One Hundred Two

PART II

the crib and pen close together, hav-
ing them on the thinnest spots in your
pasture, and moving them often, they
will be found to be very handy. You
feed your corn where the land needs
it least. If you are pasturing cattle
or horses in the same field with the
hogs, this pen protects the hogs from
them.

If you want to feed the pigs away

from the sows, adjust your door so
they can enter the pen, and the sows
will have to stay out.

I also keep bran, shorts and tankage
in this crib when I am feeding it
and have troughs in the pen to slop
the pigs in.

I believe this is a very simple, cheap
and practical device.

A Pen for the Farrowing Sow

At this time every effort must be put
forth to raise more pork to win the
war, and whatever is good in times of
war is good in times of peace. To raise
more pork, the first thing is to farrow
the pigs, save their lives, and get them
well started in the world before we can
make pork out of them. To do this we
must first have a good farrowing pen,
one that the sow cannot tear to pieces
just before she farrows and get boards
and nails strewn around her pen.

I use a pen about eight feet square
with a wood floor and tight sides so the
sow will not see any object that might
appear, while she is farrowing, which
may cause her to jump up and run over
and kill her little ones. On the inside
of the pen, about eight inches from the
floor, I put a 2x6 plank around all four
sides, horizontal, to prevent the sow
from lying against the wall, giving
plenty of room for the little pigs 'to
run under the 2x6 and get out of the
big awkward mother's way when she
gets up or lies down.

The illustration shows cleats 8x16
inches nailed on the edge of the 2x6
planks. These cleats are then nailed to
the wall with the planks bolted together
at the corners and extending out into
the pen with run-way for little pigs
underneath. By not driving the nails in

5- J MARTTM.
WESTHOPEHP.

CLCAT ^
NAILED /
TO ZxfetC

the cleats all the way in, the planks can
be easily removed and used again and
again.

Have the trough fast so she can't root
it up and perhaps kill the pigs.

One Hundred Three

HOGOLOGY

Portable Pen For Sow and Family

CONCRETt
FLOOR

JWIMCINO OOORJ

CONCRETE
FLOOR

I have drawn a rough sketch of a
portable and sanitary feeding floor
and pen for sow and litter. The pen
is intended to permit the litter to be
fed without interference from the
dam. The central alley as indicated
by the diagram is for the convenience
of the feeder, and the swinging doors
over the troughs permits him to give
slop without interference thru the
greediness of the animals. The

troughs are indicated immediately un-
der the swinging doors which cross
the pen in the diagram. The sow's
feeding floor is not enclosed. I pro-
vide self-feeders for mineral matter in
both ends of this floor. The floor of
this pen is made of plank and is cov-
ered with a layer of concrete. The
outside boards are built flush with the
floor to prevent wasting of feed. At
the rear of the pigs' feeding floor, the

One Hundred Four

PART II

bottom board is bolted to allow a
creep for the pigs without permitting
the sow to enter.

This floor and pen may be easily
moved about, and when set close to

the stationary fence of a hog lot, af-
fords a very convenient way in which
to satisfactorily care for the sow and
litter.

A Well Arranged Feeding Shed

The sketch herewith shows the plan
7^ of my feeding shed which I built for
finishing market hogs.

The shed is 32 feet long, 16 feet
wide and 8 feet high, with windows

along the south side and doors on the
north for filling the feeder. The
feeder has capacity for about 100
bushels of ear corn or twice that of
shelled. The building is large enough

DOOBS ALONG ENTIRE SIDE TO FILL FEEDER FROM OUTSIOE

SMALL OPENINGS

OUTSIDE

FRANK NE3BITT
FOWLER. IND.

HYDRANT

NON-FREEZING
WATERER
ATTACHED TO
STOCK TANK.

One Hundred Five

HOGOLOGY

to accommodate 20 325 pound hogs
without crowding. I have an auto-
matic water fountain with lamp at-
tached to water tank. During the
coldest weather this keeps the chill
oflE the water.

The ends and south side of the shed
are made of old lumber, the west end
being covered with old tin roofing
on the outside of the lumber. I have
a door on the west of the right height
for the manure spreader, and I shovel
the manure direct into the spreader.

The floor is made of concrete thru-
out constructed by throwing in a lock

with well-tamped cinders as filler, then
covered with one or two inches of
cement. The sleeping pen is kept well
bedded. This is my third year with
this kind of floor, and I consider it
far superior to dirt or board floors.

I built this shed myself during spare
time, and the entire cost was less than
a hundred dollars. I consider that
it will pay for itself every year in
the labor saved.

My hog house proper is fourteen
feet from the shed with concrete floor
between.

A Modern Hog Plant

The attending drawings of my hog
plant are planned entirely by myself
and they have given a great deal of
added pleasure to me in my hog oper-
ations.

The hog house is 22x36 feet and is
built on the university plan. It has
a double floor and shingled roof and
makes a very attractive improvement
on the farm.

The slop pen is of my own design
and has a cement floor slanting to the
south. By my trough device, the slop
can be fed very much more rapidly
without wasting and without plaster-
ing the heads of the pigs. The slop
cooker is at the end of the alley and

is very handy. The corn-crib is close,
and the feeding floors are cement and
very easily cleaned. In each of the
farrowing pens a guard rail of 2x4
is placed about 7 inches off the floor
to prevent the sows from crushing
the pigs.

The alfalfa feeder is built like a box
on legs, with the bottom board ofiE all
the way around and with a lid cov-
ering it to keep out rain and snow.
It can be used for either baled or
loose hay. The drawing indicates
the dimensions.

Should any further information be
desired regarding my equipment, I
would be glad to answer inquiries.

One Hundred Six

PART II

BARN LOT

nEDINC

CORN / FLOOR
caiB . /' CE

LARGE LOT

RAY WHITHAM
GRIDLEY ILL.

0-:

ALFALFA FEEDER
RAY WHITMAN

TROUGH DEVISE

GRIDLEY. ILL.

One Hundred Seven

HOGOLOGY

Suggestions to Solve Your Housing Problem

€

A hog house that I made for our
farm is shown in the accompanying
sketch, 64 ft. long and 20 ft. wide,
standing east and west. The north
side of the roof is tight shiplap sheet-
ing with steel roffing on it, the south
side is more sloped and not as long
as the north, and is shingled, with
13 chief sunshine windows in the roof
which admit the sun just where you
need it in the winter time, in the far-

rowing pens. These pens are 6 x 8 ft.
on the north side of the building, and
each has a gate in it so I can let the
sows out to exercise after the pigs are
a few days old. The roof is 5J4 ft.
high on the north side, and in the
pens so that a man can stand up and
easily clean out the pens thru open-
ings made in the tight shiplap on the
north side. The south side is 7^2 ft.
high to plate and has 13 windows 3 ft.

G. J. JCHUUTTENHOFEB.
EAFU. PARK INLD.

^ratRoonm

!*'

T-1

GLIDING

OOOH

■

CEMENT

.n.ltllN& OOOfC^

One Hundred Eight

PART II

from the ground, and la sunshine
windows in the roof on the south
side. I also have one window and a
4 ft. door on the east, and one win-
dow and an eight foot roller door
on the west.

I have self-feeders and it is much
easier cleaned out. False bottoms are
used in the cemented pens, as ce-
ment is too cold for pigs to sleep on.
In the other half, I have my pens
made of 1x4 boards and the bottom
8x12 plank, with the rest of the space
for a run for the hogs in bad weather,
which is of fine crushed stone. A hy-
drant is in the middle of the house,
providing pure, fresh water in foun-
tains from a gravity system tank in
the attic of my house. Having the
fountains saves a lot of work, and
worry when you are away for some
time. The one I use can accommo-
date a fire in cold weather to warm
the water; that is a great thing, for
the hogs, as you know, won't drink
any more cold water than they have
to have.

There is also a "feed bin 6 x 8 in.
in the hog house which I keep filled

with shelled corn and oats for them
and on stormy days I don't have to
get out of the house to care for my
stock. There is also space reserved
for straw bedding and as a rule I clean
out the shelter every other day.

It has been my custom not to let
my boar run with the sows during
the breeding season, but put him in a
breeding pen on the north side of my
house, made of 1x6 boards 4J^ ft. high,
68 ft. long and 10 ft. wide, with a bed
inside the house.

I set poles every six feet around
the outside, tightlap up and down,
which makes it warm against the win-
ter winds. The catalpa and white ash
poles were barked and set in cement,
and are as good today, hard as flint,
as they were six years ago when the
house was built. The whole building
cost me $530, complete, at that time,
but of course everything is higher
now which would make such a struc-
ture cost about $800. I believe any-
one following this plan for housing
will be fully repaid and entirely sat-
isfied.

Combination Bam and Hog House

I have been raising Durocs for
about ten years, and have had hogs in
times when I hated to go out to feed.
When I had to feed in the mud, my
hogs were generally covered with
scurf and lice, and, of course, runty.

Six years ago we built a barn, so I

One Hundred Nine

thought I would remember the hogs
by erecting a shed on the end of the
bam 16' wide and 32" long, with a
crib in it of a 200 bushel capacity and
high enough to permit the hogs to
run underneath. On the north end of
this shed is another the same size for

HOGOLOGY

cattle to run under, facing the east.
These two sheds are built together,
and I have a door hung on hinges be-
tween the two so the hogs can go
from one to the other if they like.
They soon learn to push this door
which does away with the expense
of shelling com for a self-feeder, for
there is nothing that can get in to
bother the corn. They sleep in the
shed with the cattle. When I first
built this shed, I left it with a dirt

would lose enough money at the pres-
ent price of corn to build a concrete
feed floor. My hogs eat in this shed
on a concrete floor, but they never
sleep on it in winter, and it makes
a nice place for them in summer.

Two years ago I had a bunch of
hogs that got scurfy and lousy, and as
it got too muddy to haul my manure
out of the horse stable on the field,
I wheeled it out in the cattle yard un-
der the shed, and my hogs started

CATTLE 5HED WHERE HOGS 3LEEP

NORTH SIDE

HORSE 3TA&LE

CEMENT PLANKED

ON TOP

FEED ALLEY
CEMENT

BOX 5TALL3

DRIVEWAY
CEMENT

COW STABLE
CEMENT

FEED ALLEY

CEMENT

SHEEP

PEN

W. M MYSELL

aOUTH .SIDE

LCONARDSBURG,

SWING

MOR HUNS

BY HINGE

AT TOP

HOG
HOUSE

CEMENT
TLOOB

OHIO.

floor, and fed that way for a couple
of years. I was feeding twenty-five

hogs one winter, two bushels a feed,
out of doors when frozen and in the
shed when muddy, but they finally got
the shed in bad shape, so I put a par-
tition in my barn floor which is con-
crete, and I found that it took less
corn. With the other way, a man

sleeping in it. I was a little uneasy
about it at first, but I soon found they
had no lice and the scurfy was gone.
I have been making a practice of keep-
ing dry horse manure under the shed
from that time, since it makes a cheap
way of dipping them, and I have had
pretty good success raising Durocs.

One Hundred Ten

PART II

A Convenient and Serviceable Hog House

This house faces south. The win-
dows at the top are so arranged as to
allow sufficient sunlight for the hog
beds. Ventilators can be made either
above or below windows. The pas-
sageway separates troughs and feed
bins. The feeding rooms are supplied
with swinging doors; back of feeding
rooms are the beds raised 8 inches
above ground, and back of the beds
are the pig lots.

The exterior of this house is made

with a lattice effect so as to allow a
free circulation of air. This will cer-
tainly prove a labor saver and life
saver to hog raisers. Materials re-
quired:

5,000 ft. of plank 1 in. thick.
580 ft. 2x4s.
340 ft. 4x4s.

Two hundred and fifty d'ollars will
easily complete this house today,
without the roof, which will require
about twelve rolls of paper.

E H. TIFFANY-
MrDOLBBURO VA

FLOOR. PLAN OF HOG HoUSE

One Hundred Eleven

HOGOLOGY

Combination Hog House and Hay Rack

H. B. CRNJT,
KENESAW, NCBR.

A hog shed of my own construc-
tion is shown in the sketch below.
This certainly is a cheap, warm shed,
built in a horse feed rack. A well-
built A-shaped house is constructed
in the rack, the roof boards running
same as on an A-shaped hog house. I
have doors in roof that can be opened
when rack is empty in summer, thus
permitting sunlight to enter. My feed>
rack is 10x30x13 ft. high with a 3-ft.
manger on two sides and on one end.

The other end is left open for an en-
trance for the hogs. I haul a load of
wheat straw and cover this house,
and fill the manger. Then I haul oat
straw, hay or any other feed, fill the
rack and your hog house is well cov-
ered. By putting the wheat straw in
first, the manger is always well filled
for banking for the house. This house
is two feet high on sides and four
feet in center.

One Hundred Twelve

PART II

A One-Room Portable Hog House

C. H. TIPFAJMV
MinOLEBUBC, VA.

riG.i,

We have used the house shown in
Fig. 1 and find it the most useful
hog house on the farm. A team of
horses can easily draw it to any place
desired. This house is especially use-
ful in the summer. It was built on
a rainy day and the following mate-
rials were used:

Two hundred and fifty feet of plank.
Three pieces 2x6x8 feet for runners.
Six 3x4x16 feet for framework.

The labor and material cost me not
over $6.50 two years ago.

When painted, this house will last
many years.

A Double-Room Portable Hog House

The house shown in Fig. S is built that it is a double house. I use this
on th« same plan as Fig. 1, except house for two different lots, arranging

EARL H. TIFFANY
MIDDbEBURC, VA

One Hundred Thirteen

HOGOLOGY

the fencing accordingly. If I use the
house for several shotes, I pull the
sliding partition making one large
room. This house is as convenient as
No. 1 and can be moved anywhere on
the farm by a team of horses. The
material requirements:

Four hundred and fifty feet of plank.

Three pieces 2x8x16 feet for run-
ners.

Ten pieces 2x4x16 feet for framing.

When completed as shown by the
drawing, the labor and material cost
me $11 in 1917.

This Arrangement of Pens Expedites Feeding Operation

■A-JHAPED HOUSI

H.W.CAJWB.L
GARDNER MAM

The accompanying diagram shows
an arrangement which I have found to
be exceedingly convenient in manag-
ing either fourteen brood sows or as
many litters of growing pigs. The
same system can be carried out, how-
ever, in case a smaller number of
yards is more suitable. The advan-
tages in having the pens in circular
form about the central feeding and

watering ring or house can easily be
ascertained, but the principal feature
is that it expedites matters very ma-
terially at feeding time, at the same
time allowing the brood sow or grow-
ing pigs free access to the range.
With this system you don't have to
run all over the farm to feed the hogs,
but can have everything handy in the
central house and distribute them
much more quickly.

One Hundred Fourteen

-H-^MD^H >

Miscellaneous
Hog Lot
Appliances

PART II

- JHORT RAFTER

A. PUR5INCEH
ONAWA, lA.

A New Idea Hog House Ventilator

The plans shown will give you some
idea of the ventilator used on our
farm, my most practical of hog farm
equipment, because it is so practical
and economical. It is used to be put
on hog houses with skylight windows.
The length of it .is the length of the
house, minus eight feet on each end.
In its construction, sheet and shingle
the roof of house up to 12 inches of
the ridge of the roof on each side.
Cut short rafters 12 inches long and
fit on top of main rafters of roof; cut
a set of short rafters for each set of
main rafters of the roof included in
the ventilator. After these have been
placed, sheet and shingle as one would
the roof. "Place tin ridge roll on ridge
of ventilator, which will leave a space

of about three inches between roof of
ventilator and that of house.

This is the type of ventilator put 0:1
my father's hog house last year and
has proved so successful that I wanted
to give you the benefit of it. I know
of no other like this. Last winter we
used such a house for sleeping quar-
ters for hogs. This ventilator takes
out all of the frost on the inside walls
of the house, all dusty air soon
passes out of it, and it furnished fresh
air for them to sleep in without a
particle of draft. The ventilator be-
ing almost the entire length of the
house does away with air currents and
drafts that skylight window venti-
lators and cupola ventilators give.
The small cost over and above the
cost of the house gives it such an eco-
nomical feature.

One Hundred Seventeen

HOGOLOGY

Partition Gate for Hog Houses

The inexpensive and durable parti-
tion gate described for hog houses or
other stock buildings we have found
very useful on our place, and is also
very light, making operation easy. It
may be taken down and hung up to

piece is nailed securely to post or side
of wall. Another 2x4 is made similar
to the one above, with the exception
of the l"x8" slot in top, and instead,
make an opening l"x4" six inches from
the top to correspond with that made

RgZ

t).T. NCWBTf, aUKRtOAN. INO<

the ceiling or any convenient place
where it will be out of the way, in
this way giving more room for feed-
ing.

In making this gate, first take a 2x4
of the height desired for the partition
and saw out a piece l"x8" long at one
end, as shown, and also in the same
piece cut out l"x4" hole six inches
from the bottom for a slot to permit
the sliding of the partition gate. This

near the bottom. This piece is then
nailed to 2x4 number one. A third
2x4 is made like number two and fixed
to the side opposite pieces number one
and two combined. These supports
are now ready for the partition proper
which is made out of J4" or %" lum-
ber, 4" wide, the length according to
the width of space to be partitioned
oil. The top slat and the one next to
bottom are the same length, both

One Hundred Eighteen

PART II

being four inches longer at one end
and two inches longer at the opposite
end than the two intermediate lx4s,
which may be spaced according to

one's desire. When the gate is in
place, a piece may be fitted to fill the
slot in 3x4 number one to make it
secure.

A Guard for Young Pigs

SIDE WALL

FARROWINO PEN

ALLEVWAYWALL

/ |y I TROUGH

,^WAU»

FIG.l

CUV V. JINCKS — ROSS IOWA.

This device has proved very satis-
factory for me. This prevents the
sow from laying on young pigs, one
of the greatest difficulties in farrow-
ing. This arrangement prevents the
sow from laying against the wall, thus
giving the pigs room to go around.
I am sure that this device has saved
me thousands of dollars' worth of
pigs. Before trying this method I
used 2x4 about 10 inches from the
floor and wall, but all too often the

sow, in lying down, would catch one
of the best pigs of the litter between
the 3x4 and her body.

If there is a board floor in the hog
house the lower edge of the board
can be nailed to the floor, the top
edge resting on a 1x4 nailed flat on
the wall. Where a cement floor is
used they can be nailed at the ends
and a strip nailed down each corner,
as in Fig. 1.

One Hundred Nineteen

HOGOLOGY

Storm Front Protection for Hog House

I want to say in the beginning that
the man that tries to raise hogs with-
out a shelter should get out of the busi-
ness. Trusting to the hog to fix his
winter quarters in the woods and fence
corners has gone out of date. In this
section it is almost obsolete. In our
country raising corn and hogs is the
main business, and almost every farmer
has a hog house of some kind, but one
thing for the protection and comfort
of our hogs is neglected — storm doors
to our houses. They can be built out
of old lumber with small cost, but you
can save enough in one year to build
them out of new material.

If you have the small single house
and your brood sows and fall shoats
can lay in one, fix two or three or more
if you need them. If you have the large
colony house, you will need only one

HOG H0U3C

5T0RM

FRONT
DOORS

J. H. GOODKNIGHT, KEMPTONs IND.

door. Neighbor, do you think it advis-
able, good policy, remuneration, while
you are tucked up in a warm bed to
let your sows sleep in a house with the
door open? Have you stopped to think
that that neglect causes many ills? It'
takes more than enough feed to keep
them warm than to build the device
each year. Hogs take cold, cough, take
rheumatism, and many die of pneumonia
on account of the drafts and extreme
cold blowing directly on them. Venti-
late your house, but close your doors.
You cannot afford to stand out in cold
weather waiting for hogs to go to bed
to close the doors of your hog house.
Build a storm door I Build it now I Pro-
tect your foundation, you will sleep bet-
ter yourself. Aside from the comfort
it will make you money, the very thing
most American farmers are looking for.
You build the door to suit your house
and fancy; but here is a good plan.

Make a square large enough for a
hog to turn around in and inclose three
sides, the open side set against hog
house door. Cut two doors in the storm
front sides opposite each other. The
wall opposite door in hog house must
be left tight. It is best to keep one door
in the storm front closed, depending
on the direction the wind is blowing.
You can roof it any height desired, but
I find three feet is a very convenient
height to use.

One Hundred Twenty

PART II

JAMES NISSLEY
PEMBeRTON. -

A Sliding Door

Here is a sliding door that I use
on my shift partition. It is operated
from aisle by handle, which I find
very convenient.

In the sketch, \A shows an ordi-
nary door made of inch boards as
high and wide as desired, with a nail-
ing strip six inches wide on each end.
C is a board 1x4 inches wide and as
long as the door is wide. This board
is nailed on top of the door and ex-
tends one inch over the top board of
partition so that the strip B 1x1 can
be nailed underneath to keep the door
on track. There is also a 1x1 nailed
to the door under the track board to
keep the door from being raised.

D is an ordinary door guide with a
roller which allows the door to slide
very easily.

£ is a 1x2 oak lath which is fast-
ened to the door with a bolt.

One Hundred

F is a bolt with which the door is
locked. This enables the door to be
locked so that pigs of any size may
be allowed to go through and at the
same time prevent the larger ones
from entering.

G shows notches cut in top of
board to allow the lock board to drop
and lock the door. The sketch shows
the door slightly open.

We find that this door is very serv-
iceable to hold hogs while ringing
them; one man operates the lever and
the other does the ringing.

This door and partition should be
made from hardwood so the nails
will hold, as there is a great deal of
strain on hog furniture.

I have some of these doors hung
on small rollers.

Twenty-one

HOGOLOGY

A Swinging Door for Hog Houses

I have a little article on better hog
raising which I think every hog raiser
should have, namely, a swinging door
that will permit the passing of the
pig's and that will close after them,
excluding snow and rain. By the use
of this door, it is possible to keep the
house warm at farrowing time. I
have found that pigs only two weeks
old can operate this. It also prevents
chickens from entering the house if
the windows are covered with net-
ting. We have used these doors for
five years and find them highly satis-
factory.

The hinge is a f^-inch rod running
lengthwise of the door 3]4 inches
from one side and attached to the
door. I use two check row corn
planter springs, one on each side of
the door, near the top and behind
the hinge rod. These springs allow

the door to go either way. The dia-
gram shows the plan.

ctSSSfije

RICHARD HALL &. SONS
BRADFORD, ILL.

A Convenient Hog House Door

I have a home-made hog house door
that greatly benefits a farmer's wife, the
farmer himself and his entire family,
and there seems to be very, very few
in use. It keeps the chickens out of the
hog house, and in winter automatically

keeps many cold drafts off the hogs and
sometimes saves the lives of pigs. In
summer it will darken the house, if so
desired, for fly protection. Thus it saves
poultry, tears, trouble, little pigs some-
times, and makes happiness and money

One Hundred Twenty-two

PART II

CEORCe «AGe GOOOLANO

I NO.

for wife, farmer and family, and also
makes more good strengthening food
for the loved ones who are fighting so
hard for the existence of our very na-
tion and ourselves.

This device is a light board door, just
a little shorter and narrower than the
opening made for the hog entrance in
the house. This door is suspended from
a rod at the top of the doorway so that
it can be easily pushed in or out. This
lets the hogs go into or out of the house
as they please, and^in my experience
with it, no bad results have yet occurred
from its use.

Arrangement of Pens Handy When Dipping

The arrangement of the pens and panying diagram I have used for
quarters as shown on the accom- some time and has proved very sat-

mSTURt

nmowiNO

WELTtn

PASTURE

•s^m

BOAR

iHtLTCR

PASTURE

nnz

CEfKNT FLOORS

DILI, on

Roon

V/n- AND aUEONG JHED
ARE UNDER MHE COVCR
CHUTE AT END Of JCAtU
a NOT 3TATI0NAFW

B.C. MtELVtEN
ARCOLA, OA.

One Hundred Twenty-three

HOGOLOGY

isfactory. One advantage is, when
dipping, the pig can be br ught from
pasture thru the dip, weighed, and
either returned to pasture or loaded
on wagon by the chute at the end of
the scales. The chute is not station-

ary, and can be fixed on wheels so as
to make it easier to pull around to
different places.

The vat and sleeping porch are
under the same cover.

Simple Heater for Farrowing in House

WIRES TO
CEILING

CAN TILLED WITH
MOT WATER

rr.1.. NOON^ JACKSON, MICH.

A simple way to heat th& farrowing
house in cold weather. Hot water,
milk can and wire does the work. At-
tach wire from each handle of the milk
can to the roof so it cannot be tipped

over if the sow objects to it being
there. This will change the tempera-
ture of the house and make it com-
fortable for the little "newcomers."

One Hundred Twenty-four

PART II

A Fool-Proof Latch

f A.H.WAeNER

POINT CLEAR AL/\.

The latch shown in the accompany-
ing illustration has been very satisfac-
tory to me. The diagram shows the
details of its construction. One and
the best features of this is the small
pieee of wood which is hung in the
position shown as the "latch," which
makes it impossible for a horse or any
other animal to lift up the latch and
open the gate. This is loose and can
be swung aside when one desired to
open it. This has been in use on sev-
eral of my gates around the farm and
it has proven worth-while.

Self-Closing Hog House Door

Use a light weight screen door spring ;
fasten one end to the wall and the other
end to the door as shown in illustration.
Nail a j4-inch button on the building so
the door cannot close tight. The hogs
will soon learn to open the door with
their snoots.

r.O.ETTER.

5PARK5. NEBR.

One Hundred Twenty-five

HOGOLOGY

A Hog House Door

I am using three of the doors de-
scribed below and would not be with-
out them. It may be hung inside the
regular hog door in the hog house or
placed wherever needed, in pens and
fences, etc. It is chicken and cat-proof,
though the hogs may pass either way
at will, and the door is always closed
against drafts and storms. The chain or
rope may be adjusted to stop large hogs
and allow the small ones to pass through.
The removable bar allows the hogs to
pass one way only, thus making it pos-
sible to shut up the hogs for sorting.
A strip of felt may be tacked on the
bottom side of the door and saturated
with crude oil, making an effective oiler.
The diagram indicates the method of
construction.

»»• CARL W. HELLER. GENE5E0. ILL.

A Roller Skid for Loading Crates

I find daily use for and save many
a heavy lift with a roller skid, as
shown by the sketch above. With it
a five hundred-pound hog can be
loaded with ease by one man. To
construct such a skid, take two 3x4s
7 ft. long and two pieces of wagon
tire, and bolt them at each end. Then

take the two rollers out of an old
binder, saw them into four pieces as
rollers of the desired width. Fit them
into the top edge of the 2x4 equal
distant apart. Bolt them together at
each end of the bottom side. One
end of the roller skid is placed on the
wagon box and the crate containing
hog is easily rolled upon the wagon.

One Hundred Twenty-six

PART II

Winter Hog House Door

Fasten a rod (an old wagon box rod
will serve the purpose) across the top
of the door. Drill a hole in casing at
one end, and chisel out a hole for the
rod to go into at the other end. Hang
the door on the rod, slip rod into
hole on one end and slot on the other.
Then nail board neatly over slot to
hold the rod in place. Small pigs will
learn to nose up the door if you leave
a slot at the bottom of the door as
shown above.

C. A.niLUER . NASHVILLE, niCH

A Home-Made Wheelbarrow

The construction of the wheel bar-
row shown by the diagram is as fol-
lows: Take a 14 or 16-inch plow
wheel, a piece of IJ^-inch well pipe
9 inches long, two pieces of Sx4 50
inches long, bore IJ^-inch hole in one
end of them, make hole a little larger
with a hot iron, then put one 2x4 on
each side of the wheel and place the
pipe thru for an axle; clinch the pipe
on both ends a little so it will stay in
place, then take three 2x4s 2 feet long.
Place the first one 4 inches from the

back end of the 2x4s on the wheel.
Nail it on top, having the 2x4s com-
ing back from the wheel just two
feet apart at this point. Nail the
next one on top 3 inches from the
wheel and the third one in the cen-
ter, laying them on the side so it will
be easier to nail them on solid. Lay
a floor on them with 4-inch fir or
hard pine flooring; this floor will be
2 by 3 feet; then take a good piece
of 1x12 12 feet long for the sides and
ends of the box. The box will be 2x4

One Hundred Twenty-seven

HOGOLOGY

I !*• PI Pe 9' LONG .

S. A. CANTv WESTFIELD , roWA.

feet on top, the back end of which is
cut mitering, which is a great advan-
tage in shoveling ear corn from the
box. Reinforce the corners of the
box with four pieces of 3x2, setting
the end gates in 2 inches. Take a
piece of 2x4x38 inches, cut the corners
off, then cut it two in the center mit-
ering. This will make the legs. Bolt
two plow or cultivator handles to the
center of the legs and to a brace on
each side of the box made of two
paint, and it will last for many years,
pieces of 1x4 2 feet long. Use plenty
of nails, and give it two coats of good
The one I have is four years old,
has been used every day on some part

of the farm, and is still in good shape.
Five hundred pounds can be wheeled
in it. Side-boards, similar to a wagon,
can be made for it. When standing
on the ground with a load in it, it is
not so easily upset as an ordinary
wheelbarrow. We have used this
barrow in cleaning the barns, to haul
grain, wood, cobs, cement, hogs in
crates, and as a watering and feeding
trough for horses and cattle, also to
mix cement and plaster in, and for
many other things such as hauling
fencing material, a barrel of salt, etc.
No factory made wheelbarrow will
serve the purpose of this one. I
would not take $50 for it if it is im-
possible to get another one like it.

A Rack That Prevents Alfalfa Waste

I always had trouble with hogs
wasting alfalfa until I made a rack
like the sketch indicates below. With

this rack, my hogs do not waste this
feed or trample in the mud, and they
can get every" spear of hay. If green

One Hundred Twenty-eight

PART II

alfalfa is mowed and fed, this rack is for feeding hay, etc., will find no fault
the place for it. in its use.

The persons who adopt this rack

a. or aroFCN

B. E. MALL, WAT50N, MO.

A Hog Farm Auto Trailer

The trailer I use was made from the
rear axle, reach, and front wheels of an
old spring wagon. I made the box four
feet long, 2}/i inches wide and 10 inches
deep. I bolted a 16 inch wagon box iron
at each comer, allowing them to pro-
trude four inches above the corners of
the box. These I bent out and bolted
flare boards to them. The box is bolted
to the reach in front and to the springs.
I cut off the reach about 18 inches in
front of the box and bolted two strap
irons to it with holes in the end for the
hitch.

The trailer cost me about three dol-
lars for hunber, nails, bolts and iron. I
had the old spring wagon and did all the
work myself. I have two crates that
just fit the box and I haul two hogs at
nne time.

WILBUR ANDERSON
WICHRA IOWA

One Hundred Twenty-nine

HOGOLOGY

A Stay-There Ear Mark

I have put ear tags in my sows'
ears several times and they get torn
out. While all do not get torn out,
still they constantly are losing. If
all the sow pigs from a certain sow
are in the same ear mark I have no
way to distinguish these. This is
very inconvenient at breeding time.

I bought a tattoo marking ap-
paratus and ink, but read that tattoo
did not show well on red skin, so I
never used it. I used a belt punch
and small blade pocket knife, but had
to re-mark several as the slits would
grow up. I am using a V-marker
mark, so this will last her all her days.

cut a V. This stands for No. 1, same
as an ear tag No. 1. On same ear
half way between the center and end
on top cut V. This stands for No. 2
sow pig. At end of left ear cut V
stands for a figure 3. On bottom
side of left ear about the center a V
cut stands for a figure 5. Between
the center and the end on the bottom
of the left ear a V cut stands for fig-
ure 4. If the first sow had 5 sow pigs
and 4 boars that we marked, the sows
would be marked as shown and all
the boars be marked alike with No. 1.
Since one plus five make six, we cut
one and five for number six. For

The Sketch Shows W. A. Wadsworth's
Ear Marking- System

I put all the boars of the same litter
in the same mark, as they later will
have different owners. This saves
the marks running up so fast. Pigs
are marked when I cut oflE the teeth
to keep them from damaging each
other or the udder at two days old.

In looking at the accompanying
cut we notice no mark near the head.
We have found the upper side of the
ear next to the head is a mean place
now so the marks will never grow
up. I put each sow pig in a separate
to mark and hard to see later. Here
a mark disfigures the ear. We start
on the left ear top line, mid-way, and

No. 7 we cut 2 and 5. For 8 cut 3
and 5. For 9 cut 4 and 5. All marks
on the left ear stand for units, while
all marks on the right ear stand for

tens.

A cut V at the middle top side
right ear stands for No. 10. A mark
right ear top side near the end stands
for No. 20. A mark at the end of
right ear makes N-o. 30. On the bot-
tom of right ear we cut 40 and 50, as
shown in cut. Now 10 plus 50 makes
sixty, hence we cut 50 and 10 to get
sixty. We cut 1 and 10 to get eleven.
We cut 10 and 2 to get 18.

One Hundred Thirty

PART II

By using these simple cuts we can
mark 100 sow pigs each in her indi-
vidual mark. To distinguish the sec-
ond hundreds we can cut a V mark
near the head on the left ear and start
at one again and mark up to 199.
By marking the right ear under side
close to the head we designate 200;

aoo plus 100 makes 300. Hence cut
a V in each ear next to head bottom
side will get 300. By adding other
marks we get to 399. To mark 400
cut two marks on right ear under side
close together and close to head.
Four V's on the under side of each
ear reads 899.

Tools for Sanitation

Here are diagrams of my equip-
ment for keeping my hog barn and
feeding floors in a sanitary condition. I
have over 2,000 feet of cement floor, and
I go over these at least once each day.
The scraper is used to shove droppings
and cobs together, while the wide shovel
is used to remove either into a sled or
hand cart. With this outfit I also in-
clude a good broom and sprinkling can,
and since adopting my outfit, cholera has
been a stranger on my farm. In making

my first scraper, I used a cross-cut saw
blade, but I soon discarded this as it was
tempered too hard and broke easily. I
am now using a piece of malleable iron
which is heavier and gives entire satis-
faction. I use a five foot handle and
the blade of the scraper is two feet in
length and about two inches wide. The
shovel is an ordinary coal shovel 14
inches wide, and I also use a small fire
shovel to assist in cleaning out the
troughs.

One Hundred Thirty-one

HOGOLOGY

A Handy Item at Butchering Time

The diagram submitted herewith is
self-descriptive as regards the con-
struction and arrangement of this
handy help at hog killing time. As
you will note, the uprights are of
rather heavy material, which I made
25 feet long, having 4 feet in the
ground; likewise is the 5-foot cross
piece overhead, on which are placed
the three blocks. I have used a plat-
form in connection with this and

found it more convenient than with-
out.

With the pulley the pig can be
raised or lowered as desired and
makes it easier to scald and dress the
carcass. The hog can be lowered in-
to the barrel full of scalding water
and then dressed. By having more
than one pulley equipment, several
hogs can be taken care of at one time,
thus expediting matters considerably.

One Hundred Thirty-two

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