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^"ilivated roses-,
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A Good Pot Rose : Niphetos.
Cultivated Roses ;
An Alphabetical List op Species and Vaeibties Grown in
THIS CorNTRY, WITH THEIR DaTE OF INTRODUCTION,
Classes, Colours, Adaptabilities, and Modes
OP Pruning; also Chapters dealing
WITH Insect and Fungoid Pests,
Manures, Etc.
ILLUSTRATED.
Edited by
T. W. SAiSTDEES, F.E.H.S., F.N.C.S.
(Editor of "Amateur Gardening" and President of the National
Amateur Gardeners' Associatimi.)
LONDON :
W. H. AND L. C0LLINGRID6E,
148 AND 149, Aldbrsgate Street, E.G.
1899.
LONDON ;
PRINTED BY W. H. AND L. COLUNGRIDGE,
ALDERSGATE STREET, E.C.
INTRODUCTION.
Having been frequently applied to by numerous readers of
Amateur Gardening to supply information as to colours, classes,
and methods of pruning various roses, we conceived the idea
of preparing and publishing, in the pages of the above journal,
a catalogue or schedule of all the kinds of roses worth growing
in this country, under the impression that such a list might be
found generally useful. We made an attempt to undertake
the task ourselves, but finding it more onerous than we antici-
pated, and recognizing the fact that if done at all it was worth
doing well, we engaged an expert, Mr. Archibald Piper, to carry
out the compilation.
At the first onset we had no idea that the list would have
extended to such a formidable length as it did, and this in spite
of the fact that it by no means included all the species and
varieties known to rosarians. However, having commenced,
we were bound in the interests of the readers of Amateur
Gardening to continue its publication, which extended to twenty-
three issues.
As the schedule passed through the pages of the journal,
numerous requests were made by readers for its publication in
book form. This afforded unmistakable evidence that the
schedule supplied a real want among rosarians, and encouraged
by this fact, we decided to meet so unanimous a request by
making arrangements for issuing it in a handy form.
ii. INTRODUCTION.
Several readers kindly made various suggestions for adding
to its value and usefulness. We have, however, only been able
to add one new feature, namely, the date of introduction, as far
as it could be ascertained with certainty. To do this we have
had to abridge some of the terms used in the columns ; but
we do not think this will prove any serious defect, or diminish
the usefulness of the information given. Most of the other
suggestions have been supplied in the form of short chapters
at the commencement, which will, doubtless, prove more useful
than abridged details given in columnar form.
We have reproduced some notes of our own on " Types of
Roses " that appeared in Amateur Gardening some years ago,
which we hope the reader will find helpful ; also given
chapters on Manures ; How to Plant, Prune, and Propagate ;
Enemies of the Rose ; Pot and Climbing Roses, etc.
We desire it to be clearly understood that we do not profess
this little manual to be a complete guide to rose culture.
While it unquestionably supplies a vast deal of valuable
information in an absolutely unique form, the limits of its size
necessarily preclude it from dealing fully with every phase of
so fascinating a pursuit. Those who want a more exhaustive
work on the subject are recommended to parchase "The
Amateur's Rose Book," published at the office of Amateur
Gardening.
Lastly, we have to thank several friends for assistance ren-
dered in supplying special information on the subject of insect
pests, diseases, etc. Those who have kindly helped in these
mattei-s are Messrs. H. A. Smith, J. Landsell, J. C. Tallack,
and E. Molyneux.
TYPES OF ROSES.
Alba (Rosa alha). — The original type of this rose has been
in cultivation since 1597. It bears small white fragrant blooms
in June and July. The hybrids obtained from it are numerous,
and all bear very beautiful blush or rosy-tinted blooms of ex-
quisite fragrance. Essentially early summer blooming, and
best grown as dwarfs, although some sorts do well as standards.
They require to be pruned closely, i.e., to two or three " eyes "
or buds. Good ordinary soil and a well-drained bed or border
will suit their growth well. Not suited for town gardens. The
following are typical kinds : Maiden's Blush, blush ; Felicity,
rosy flesh ; and Celestial, flesh.
Ayrshire {Rosa arvensis). — A native species from which
several double varieties, hardy in constitution, rapid in growth,
and prolific in flowering,
have been raised. They
are all admirably adapted
for quickly covering tree
stumps, trellises,
arbours, rooteries, per-
golas, pillars, walls, etc.,
and grow with the
greatest freedom in
ordinary soil, in sun or
in shade. Specially
adapted for town
gardens. Make excellent
weeping roses budded on
standard briars. Require
no pruning beyond
thinning out the shoots
a little, and removing
dead wood and cutting
off the soft tips of re-
maining shoots. Dundee
Rambler, white ; Ben-
nett's, white (see illustra-
tion, page 3); Ruga, flesh; and Splendens,flesh,are excellent sorts.
Ruga is perhaps the best of all. The foregoing are scentless roses.
The Austrian Briar Rose
{see next page).
2 CULTIVATED ROSES.
Austrian {Rns,a lutea). — A European speoies, first intro-
duced into this country in 1596, and bearing lovely yellow
solitary flowers in June and July only. There are three
varieties of it, namely, Austrian Copper, single, reddish copper ;
Harrisonii, golden yellow, double ; and Persian Yellow, rich
yellow, double. They are easily distinguished from other roses
by their prickly chocolate-coloured shoots, small leaves, and
solitary flowers. Although hardy, they thrive best in a well-
drained border at the foot of a south wall. A poor rather than
The Apple-bbaking Rose.
a rich soil suits them best. They are essentially pure air roses,
and hence not suited for town or suburban gardens. The
flowers being borne near the extremities of the shoots of the
previous year's growth, only the unripened tips of the strongest
of the latter should be removed, and the weakest thinned
out slightly. May be grown as dwarfs or standards; the
former is the best method of the two, however.
Apple-bearing ( Bosa mollis pomifera). — A near ally of the
Scotch Eose (E. spinosissima), a native of Eu.rope (Britain),
4 CULTIVATED ROSES.
and long cultivated in old-fashioned gardens. It is very hardy,
has glaucous foliage, and bears large single red flowers freely in
June and July, which are succeeded by large brilliant scarlet
apple or pear-shaped heps, that ripen in early autumn. A
charming rose for the rough border, and succeeding under
similar treatment to that accorded to E. rugosa. No pruning
beyond thinning out the shoots, when crowded, required.
Banksian (Rom Bankdce). — Originally introduced from
China in 1809. The typical species bears small white, double.
The Banksian Rosk.
pleasantly-scented flowers in clusters in early summer. There
is a yellow variety, equally pretty ; also a hybrid, called
Fortune's Yellow, which bears yellowish orange, semi-double
blooms. These roses are not quite hardy, hence will only
succeed against a south wall and in fairly good soil in a well-
drained border. They will do well also against the back wall
of a sunny, cold greenhouse. A warm greenhouse is not
suitable, as the heat would encourage a too free growth at
the expense of flowering. Pruning should be done after
TYPES OF HOSES. 5
flowering in June or July, and consist only of the removal of
the o-ver-gross or badly- ripened shoots and the tips of those
left.
Barberry-leaved {Rosa berberifoUa).~A native of Persia
and Tartary, and introduced in 1790. An exquisite but un-
fortunately very tender rose. It bears solitary small yellow
flowers, with a dark crimson spot at the base of each petal.
There is one variety, Hardii, which bears single yellow blooms,
having a chocolate blotch at the base of each petal. The
flowers are very fragrant. Too tender to grow outdoors, except
on a warm, well-drained bed or border against a south wall.
Rarely grown in this country. Prune in April, thinning out
weak shoots only.
Bourbon (Rosa indica Bourboniana). — The original proto-
type of the Bourbon class of roses is supposed to be the result
of a cross between the Chinese and Four Seasons' rose. The
varieties since raised are all noteworthy for blooming freely in
the autumn when other roses are on the wane. They also
bloom comparatively freely during the summer, but it is during
the autumn months that they are seen to perfection. All are
thoroughly hardy, free flowering, vigorous growing, and more
or less fragrant. They may be grown on standards or dwarfs
in the open in well-drained soils and sheltered positions ; in
cold districts they are best grown against a south wall. A
good rich soil is necessary. Some few sorts will thrive and
flower freely in town or suburban gardens. The most suitable
for this purpose are : Souvenir de la Malmaison, blush ; Mrs.
Bosanquet, pale flesh ; Queen of Bedders, crimson, an excellent
variety for growing in masses in beds ; Empress Eugenie, rosy
blush ; and Robusta, fiery red. Other good sorts are : Climb-
ing Souvenir de la Malmaison, an excellent variety for south
walls ; Loma Doone, magenta, shaded scarlet ; and Sir Joseph
Paxton, crimson. In pruning, bear in mind that vigorous
growers like Souvenir de la Malmaison must not be pruned too
closely. Simply shorten the strongest shoots one-third and the
weakest two-thirds. Moderate growers, like Queen of the
Bedders, require their strongest shoots to be shortened to three
or four inches, and the weaker ones to one or two inches.
Bourbon Perpetuals (Eosa indica var.). — The varieties
included under this heading are invariably classed with hybrid
perpetuals in catalogues, but we follow Mr. W. Paul's admirable
b CULTIVATED ROSES.
system of classification, as published in his excellent work,
the " Rose Garden," and keep them distinct from the latter.
The Bourbon perpetuals have the common characteristics of
the Bourbon class, but are hardier, if anything, and though
the blooms individually are not large, they are borne with
great profusion in September and October. They should be
grown as dwarfs or on dwarf standards in a rich soil, and be
A Typical BonRBON Perpetual Rose.
closely pruned — i.e., have their strongest shoots shortened to
three, the medium ones to two, and the weak ones to one inch,
or removed entirely. Among the numerous varieties in this
class, the following are strongly recommended for town or
suburban gardens : Madame Isaac Pereire, rosy carmine ;
Reine Victoria, rose ; Michael Bonnet, rosy peach ; Madame
Scipion (Jochet, rose ; Marie Pare, flesh.
House Wall; Covbked with Eveborben |Kose (Flora).
8 CULTIVATED ROSES.
Boursault or Alpine {Uosa alpina). — A thoroughly hardy,
vigorous class of climbing roses, originating from the Alpine
Rose (E. alpina); a species introduced in 1683. The variety
known as Amadis is one of the best climbing roses in
existence for covering a north or east wall quickly, and flower-
ing profusely in summer. It bears large semi-double crimson
flowers in immense clusters, which are very showy but not
very fragrant. An excellent rose for walls, arbours, trellises or
pillars in town or suburban gardens. Gracilis, rosy red, is
another good sort for the same purpose. These roses require
scarcely any pruning ; simply thin out the weak shoots, and
remove the soft tips of the remaining ones. Ordinary rich soil
will suit their requirements.
Chinese or Monthly (Eosa indica). — The roses classed
under this heading are the result of crosses between the old
A Typical Chinese Rose.
China or Monthly Rose (R. indica) and the Crimson China Rose
(R. semperflorens). They are all fairly hardy, and bloom very
TYPES OF ROSES.
freely during summer and autumn when grown in beds or borders
of rich, well-drained soil, and in a sunny position. They are not
suitable for heavy cold soils or sunless positions. China roses
always produce the best effect when grown by themselves.
With the exception of the common or monthly rose, these roses
are not suitable for town, nor, indeed, for suburban gardens
where there is much smoke. They require protection in winter,
and careful pruning in autumn and spring. Thin out the shoots
in autumn, and shorten the strongest shoots a foot, the medium
ones to eight inches, and the weaker ones remove altogether, or
shorten to three inches. Here is a good selection : Common or
monthly rose, pink ; Cramoisie Superieure, crimson ; Little Pet,
white ; Sanguinea, crimson ; Alba, white ; Madame Laurette
Messimy, rose and yellow, is a grand variety for beds or
masses.
Damask {Rosa damascoena). — An old and favourite rose,
supposed to be a native of Syria, and to have been introduced
into this country in 1573. There are several varieties of it, all
of which are vigorous growers, free blooming, fragrant, and
thoroughly hardy. The Damask rose is really ' one of the
parents of the race of roses known as hybrid perpetuals. These
roses are largely grown abroad for producing blooms for the
distillation of rosewater. All summer-blooming. Most of them
are good town roses, and one or two are good climbers for a south
or south-west wall, also excellent pillar kinds. All do well
as dwarfs, but do not make good standard kinds, on account
of their growth being too straggly. Plant in October or
November eighteen inches to two feet for dwarfs, and three feet
apart for standards. Prune partly in October, thinning out
w^eak growth, and finally in March, shortening strong shoots to
six or eight " eyes," and remainder to three and four " eyes."
Typical varieties are the York and Lancaster, pink and white,
striped ; Leda or Painted Eose, blush, edged with lake ;
Madame Hardy, white ; La Ville de Bruxelles, light rose,
blush margin ; and Madame Zoetmans, white, shaded buiF.
Madame Hardy, La Ville de Bruxelles, and Madame Zoetmans
are good climbing or pillar roses, and the remainder similarly
good sorts for dwarfs or standards.
Damask Perpetual {Rosa damascmna var.). — This is a form
of the damask rose which flowers more or less from June to
November. Several varieties were cultivated at one time, but
since the hybrid perpetuals came into favour they have all dis-
10
CULTIVATED ROSES.
appeared except one— the Rose du Roi or Crimson. This is a
crimson-flowered, sweetly-scented sort of moderate growth, and
grown chiefly as a dwarf. Its requirements as to soil and pruning
are similar to the damask. It is really only worth growing
where there is plenty of room. Not suited for town gardens.
Evergreen {Rosa sempervirens). — Although called evergreen,
this rose is not really so. It retains some of its foliage, it is true,
through the winter, but yet not to such an extent as to warrant
A Typical Evergreen Rose.
the correct application of the name. Both the species — which, by
the way, was introduced into this country from Central Europe
in 1629 — and its varieties are thorovighly hardy roses, and make
excellent climbers for north, east, or west walls and fences,
arbours, pillars, or weeping standards. They are very vigorous
growers and profuse bloomers ; chiefly summer-flowering roses.
The blossoms are borne in large bunches or corymbs of ten to fifty
TYPES OF ROSES. 11
blooms each, and are mostly white or pink in colour. They all
require a rich soil. Plant between October and March, and prune
in March. In pruning thin out the small shoots freely, and just
remove the tips of the larger ones. First-rate town roses. For
general culture Donna Maria, white ; Felicitfe Perpetue, creamy
white ; Flora, rosy flesh (see illustration) ; and Myrianthes
R^noncule, blush, edged rose, are excellent sorts. Felicite
Perpetu6 is, perhaps, the best of them all.
Fairy or Lawrenciana Rose {Rosa indica). — The roses
belonging to this section are dwarf forms of the China rose, and
do not grow more than a foot high. They are specially
adapted for pot culture in windows or greenhouses, and for
edgings to rose beds. Easily raised from seed sown in a warm
greenhouse in early spring. Plants so raised will begin to
flower when two months old. Thousands of such plants, bear-
ing double pink flowers, are sold by florists in spring and
summer. Typical kinds are : Fairy, pink ; Gloire de Lawren-
ciana, crimson ; Jenny, bright crimson. If grown outdoors, a
dry soil and sunny position is necessary. Scarcely any pruning
is required, merely cutting out weak and removing tips from
strong shoots. Do this in April.
French or Qallica {R.gallica). — The race of roses grouped
under this head are descended from Rosa gallica, a native of
France and the south of Europe. Prior to the advent of the
hybrid perpetuals they were the favourite class of roses, and
grown to the same extent as the H.P.'s are to-day. No
class of roses are easier to grow, are more hardy, more beautiful
when in bloom, or more delicious in their fragrance. They will
grow in any fairly good soil, but require full exposure to the
sun. Not good town roses, however. They are compact
growers, and do well grown as dwarfs or standards. Plant from
October to March eighteen inches apart if dwarfs, and three
feet if standards. Prime partly in October, thinning out the
centres of the plants, and finally in March, shortening the
shoots to four, five, or six "eyes." The following are charming
varieties : Village Maid, white, striped rose and purple ; Kean,
velvety purple, centre scarlet ; Rosa Mundi, rose, striped with
white ; Blanchfleur, white, tinted flesh ; and ffiillet Parfait,
white, striped rosy crimson.
Hybrid Ayrshire {Rosa arveiisis var). — This group of roses
embraces kinds which are hybrids between the Ayrshire
c
12 CULTIVATED ROSES.
and the tea-scented typess. Ruga is a typical variety of this
section. Culture, etc., sanae as for the Ayrshire type, described
on page 1.
Hybrid Bourbon {Rom gallica var,). — The roses classed
under this head, are mostly hybrids between the Bourbon
(described on page 5) and the French or Provence roses.
They are a very fine type of garden roses, thoroughly hardy,
robust growers, and free bloomers. The flowers, individually,
are large, brilliant in colour, very fragrant, and borne in
summer only. Ordinary rich soil and a sunny position. They
are well adapted for town or suburban gardens, even in cold
localities. Good pot roses also Plant October to March,
two feet apart. Prune partly in November, thinning out weak
shoots; and finally, in March, shortening shoots of strong
growers to four or six " eyes," moderate growers to eight or ten
" eyes." Strong growers do well for pillars or trellises ; moderate
growers for dwarfs or standards. Typical varieties : Charles
Lawson, rose ; Coupe d'Hebe, deep pink ; Paul Ricaut, crimson.
Hybrid Noisette (Rosa gallica var.). — A class of roses of
mixed parentage, mainly the result of crosses between the
French, Provence, and the Noisettes. Mr. W. Paul, in his
" Rose Garden," affirms that " they resemble the hybrid Chinese
more nearly than any other group," but differ from them in
bearing smaller flowers in corj-mbs or clusters. The only
variety belonging to this class that is generally grown is
Madame Plautier, a charming rose bearing abundance of
white flowers in clusters during the summer. It is an excellent
rose for pot culture, for a standard, pillar, or south or south
west wall. Madeline is another charming rose, bearing white
flowers tinted with pink or crimson. Both are ^•igorous
growers with slender shoots and light green foliage. Prune
and otherwise treat as advised for Hybrid Bourbons.
Hybrid Chinese {Rosaindka var.). — Hybrids between the
French, Provence, and Chinese sections, laut possessing the charac-
teristic features of the two former, i.'., hardiness, robustness,
and flowering in sunmier. Like the preceding tyjie, they are
excellent garden roses, and do well in town or suburban
gardens. A rich soil and a sunn\- position will gi'ow them well.
Some of the sorts, like Blaii-ii, Cht'nedol(^, "N'ivid, and Fulgens,
are excellent climbing or pillar roses, growing from four to ten
feet in one season; whilst others, like (»eneral Jacqueminot,
Doorway Decorated with Gloire de Dijon Rose.
c 2
14
CULTIVATED ROSES.
Paul Verdier, and Lady Stuart, ai-e good dwarf varieties for pot
or outdoor culture. Plant in March or April, not in autumn.
Prune jjrecisely as recommended for the Hybrid Bourbons. If
grown against walls or fences a south aspect is best. Blairii
No. 2, blush pink ; Ch6n6dol6, crimson ; (General Jacqueminot,
purplish crimson ; Paul Verdier, red ; and Vivid, crimson, are
the leading sorts. General Jacqueminot and Paul Verdier are
generally included with Hybrid Perpetuals.
Hybrid Tea-scented (Roia indica mr.). — These, like the
Hybrid China roses, are usually classed with the Hybrid
A Typical Hybrid Tea Rose.
PcriJctuals; indeed, there is practically Aery little difference
})etween them, and we only place them under a separate
heading just for the purpose of showing those Avho are not
well acquainted with the various types what varieties are
frequently described in the press and in catalogues as h3-brid
teas. The latter possess the delicacy of colour and fragrance
of the teas, and the vigour of those Hybrid Perpetuals owing
TYPES OF ROSES.
15
their parentage to the Damask rose. The following are the
chief types of this class of rose : Captain Christy, fleshy pink ;
Cheshunt Hybrid, cherry-carmine ; Grace Darling, creamy
pink ; Kaiserin Auguste Victoria, white and lemon ; La France,
silvery rose ; Lady Mary Fitzwilliam, rosy flesh ; Triomphe de
Fernet Pere, carmine ; Viscountess Folkestone, creamy rose
and Hilvory ])ink; Augustine Guinoisseau, blush white; and
ISardou Job, (.-rimson. Thej' require precisely the same treat-
ment as Hj'brid Perpetnals.
Hybrid Perpetual (Rosa damasecena). — Here we have a
A Typical Hybrid Perpetual Rose.
class of roses of mixed parentage. Some belong to the Hybrid
Chinese, some the Damask Perpetual, others the Bourbon and
Noisette Perpetual. But the majority bear a strong resemblance
to the Damask type, and hence are classed under the latter.
They are all autumnal roses ; that is to say they commence to
flower in May or June, and continue in flower until November.
This, indeed, is the reason why they are termed Perpetuals. No
16 CULTIVATED ROSES.
class or type of rose is, with the exception of the tea-scented, so
popular or so widely grown as the hyhrid perpetual. The
numerous varieties are not only very hardy, free-growing, and
capable of succeeding well in town and suburban gardens, bu.t
they are for the most pari, deliciously fragrant and wonderfully
varied in colour. All are admirably adapted for pot culture or
for growin;^- as dwarfs or standards, budded or grafted on the
manetti, seedling briar, dog rose, or grown on their own roots.
A Typical Hyekid Sweet Briar Rose (see next page).
The}' require a rich soil, a sunny position, and generous treat-
ment, (iivcnthis and judicious pruning annually, no class of
rose will flower more profusely, or give greater satisfaction.
Pruning should be done partlj^ in autumn and partly in
March. In October, thin out the weak shoots and cut away
old and worn-out shoots, leaving strong young shoots of the
current year only. For spring pruning, see Schedule. Fol-
lowing are typical varieties : Alfred Colomb, red ; Beauty of
TYPES OF ROSES. IV
Waltham, carmine ; Centifolia rosea, pink ; Charles Lefebvre,
crimson ; Diipuy Jamaiu, cerise ; John Hopper, rose ; Madame
Gabriel Luizct, pink ; Mrs. John Laing, Paul Neyron, dark
rose ; Prince Camille de Eohan, crimson-maroon ; Victor Ver-
dier, carmine ; Merveille de Lyon, white.
Hybrid Sweet Briar. — This is a new race of roses,
obtained by Lord Penzance by crossing varieties of the Hybrid
Perpetual and Fortune's Yellow (Banksian) with the Sweet
Briar. The varieties so raised possess fragrant flowers and
foliage, bear large and beautifully coloured blossoms, and are
in every way a decided acquisition. They are admirably
adapted for growing in masses in beds or for forming hedges.
Plant in good ordinary soil, and merely thin out weak shoots,
also cut off tips of stronger ones in March. Amy Eobsart,
rose ; Anne of Gierstein, crimson ; and Lady Penzance, copper,
are typical varieties.
Lucida or Clynophylla (T^asa ^Mci^a). — A North American
rose, first introduced into England in 1724. The variety
Duplex has bright, shiny foliage, and bears double blush-
coloured flowers during summer and autumn. May be grown
as a dwarf in ordinary rich soil in a sunny position. Not
suited for town gardens. Plant October to March, and prune
moderately in March.
Macartney {Ro&a bradeatu). — Beautiful evergreen and
somewhat tender roses, hailing from China, from whence they
were introduced in 1795 by Lord Macartney. Only two
varieties are grown, viz.. Alba simplex, white and single ; and
Marie Leonida, white and creamy blush, double. These lovely
roses require to be grown against a south or south-west wall,
in rich soil. They should be planted in March or April, and
pruned in April, thinning out weak shoots and removing the
soft tips of the larger ones.
Microphylla {Ruaa microphylla). — A dwarf rose, and a
native of the Himalayas and China. Introduced in 1828. It
is evergreen, and furnished with very small leaves. They
require to be grown in sandy soil at the base of a south wall.
The two kinds generally grown are Ma Surprise, white with
rosy centre ; and Kubra, rosy crimson. Both flower during
summer and autumn. Plant in April. Prune also in April,
as advised for the Macartney rose.
18
CULTIVATED ROSES.
Moss {Rom cenUfoUa muscosa). — Originally a sport from the
old Provcuce or Cabbage rose, and said to have been intro-
duced into this country from Holland in 1596. At one time
moss roses were not particularly showy, but since the florists
have taken them in hand and crossed them with the Hybrid
Chinese, some really pretty varieties have been obtained. The
type we are dealing with here are summer-blooming kinds only.
There are some that flower in autumn, but these will be dealt
with under the head of Perpetual Moss roses further on. All
A Typical Moss Rose.
the present types ai-e hardy, but with the exception of the
Common Moss, Lanei, and Baron de Wassenaer, they are not
good town roses ; they really prefer the purer air of the distant
suburbs and the country. Very few kinds do well on
standards : they thrive best as a matter of fact on their own
roots, or budded on the briar. A rich soil and an open position
is indispensable ; in fact they cannot be treated too liberally
in the former respect. Plant October to March, in borders or
TYPES OF JiOSES.
19
ill beds. Pruning should bo done early in March as advised
in Schedule. The following arc typical varieties : Colina,
crimson and purple ; pale Common, rose ; Crested, rose ;
C'rimson or Damask, deep rose ; Lanei, rosy crimson ;
Luxemburg, crimson and purple ; White Gem, white ; Reine
Blanche, pure white ; "\\'hite ]!ath, white ; Comtesse Mimnais,
white.
Miniature Provence or Pompon {Rosa cenHfoTia var.). —
A dwarf tj-pe of the cabbage rose, not exceeding a foot in
A Typical MnsK Rose (-see next page).
height. They are admirably- adapted for edgings to beds or for
massing, but unfortunately they do not last in flower very
long. Grown in pots, however, in a cold greenhouse they make
charming plants during the short time they remain in bloom.
They reqiiire similar treatment to the Provence or Cabbage rose.
Not good town roses. De M-eaux, rosy lilac ; White de Meaux,
white ; and De Spong, pale rose, are the three kinds generally
known,
2Q
CULTIVATED ROSES.
Musk (iio.sfl inos('hata). — The varieties of this type are some-
what tender, and lience only adapted for warm situations, such
as a south or south-west wall. They arc climbing roses. The
original type was introduced from Persia in 1596. There are
some eight or nine varieties, and one or two hybrids. One of
A TvpicAL Noisette Rose (vee page
the latter — known as The Garland — is a charming rose,
bearing fawn-coloured flowers in large clusters, and succeeding
admirably in town or siiburban gardens. They are all more or
less fragrant, possessing a musk-like odour. Flower in Septem-
ber and October. Plant in March or April, and prune in April.
PS
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22 CULTIVATED ROSES.
Tliiu out the weak shoots freely and shorten the stronger ones
about one-fourth, not more. Typical varieties : Eliza Werrj',
nankeen and white; Fringed, white; Princesse de Nassau,
yellow; Rivers, pink shaded buflf; The Garland, fawn; and
Madame d'Arblay, flesh, are hybrids between the musk and
multiflora types. Not suited for greenhouse culture.
Noisette {Ii<)!.a moschata noltettiana). — This type of rose is
supposed to he the result of a cross between the C'liinese and
the miisk roses. The original hybrids, like Aim'e Vibert, are
very hardy, and will thrive and flower well in town gardens.
The modern hybrids, however, are rather tender, and require
to be treated similarly to the tea-scented kinds. As a matter
of fact, some of the modern noisettes have a certain amount
of the tea lalood in them, so to speak. But they are beautiful,
nevertheless, the colours being so charming and the perfimie
so sweet. The noisettes are distinguished from the teas hy
bearing their flowers in large clusters. They are mosth' of
vigorous habit, and make charming pillar or climliing roses
outdoors or under glass. Those best suited for south or south-
west walls in town gardens are : Aim6e Vibert, white ; ( Jrandi-
iliira, blush ; Celine Forestier, yellow; Desprez a Fleur Jaune,
red and buft'. Those, again, that will thrive in the suburbs
and country, and against sovith and west walls are : L'Ideal,
coppery rose ; W. A. Eichardson, orange-yellow ; Bo\i(j;uet d'Or,
yellow; Reve d'Or, yellow; and Solfaterre, sulphur yellow;
wliilst for standards Madame Caroline Kuster, pale yellow ;
Jjamarque, sulphur yellow ; and Cloth of Gold, yellow, are
good sorts. Plant in April or May. Ordinary rich soil will
suttice. Those to lie grown as standards must be planted in a
sunny jiosition. Prune in April as advised in Schedule.
Noisette Perpetual {Rosa moschata noisettiana). — The
roses classed under this head are similar to those just dealt
with, differing only in the fact of their flowering for a longer
]iei-iod. They require the same treatment as regards soil,
|)i-uning, etc. Pa>d's Single White, Madame Auguste Perrin,
and I'crlc des Blanches, white, are typical varieties.
Multiflora (liosa multiflora). — A charming type of hardy,
free-growing, and free-flowering climbing roses. The De la
Gritferaie^ frequently used as a stock for tea roses, and a first-
rate pillar or wall rose, rosy blush ; and Turner's Crimson
Rambler, a very showy and handsome variety, are the chief
TYPES OF HOSES.
23
kinds. Turner's Crimson Eambler does best against a
west, and De la Grifferaie a south, wall. For a town
garden the De la Grifferaie is the best. The other variety has
not yet been sufficiently grown to fully test its merits as a
town rose, but it will probably turn out a good all-round
kind eventually. It has been grown with great success as a
pot rose, flowering quite freely in a small state. Plant in
rich, well-drained soil, preferably in March or April from pots,
and prune in April, as advised for the Polyantha type.
A Typical Provence or Cabbage Rose.
Provence or Cabbage {Rosa cenfi/olia). — One of the
grandest types of garden roses, and one which has not had the
attention it deserves of late years. Thoroughly hardy, free-
flowering, fragrant, and handsome in foliage and flower, there
is nothing to beat it as a garden rose. The old-fashioned
Cabbage is the familiar type of the Provence rose, and has
been grown in English gardens ever since 1596. In old-
fashioned gardens one may frequently come across large
24 CULTIVATED ROSES
bushes laden with rosy-tinted blooms, filling the air around
with their delicious fragrance. There are two other forms, a
white, known as the White Provence, and a rose-tinted one,
called the Crested Moss (cristata), so named because its buds
are surrounded by a beautifullj^-crested calyx. The common
Cabbage rose is the most ^-igorous of the three. This may
be grown as a dwarf bush in the border or as a standard.
The Crested Moss also does well as a standard or dwarf, and
the AVhito Provence as a dwarf only. They all like a good
rich soil and ;i sunny position. May be planted between
October and ilarch. Prune in March. Thinning out the
weakest shoots, shortening the moderate-sized ones to two
"eyes" and the strongest (,o three "eyes." It is most
essential that this hard system of pnining be adopted, other-
wise vigorous growth and few flowers will be the result. All
summer-blooming only.
Perpetual Scotch (Ilom arvemis). — There is only one
variety of this type worth growing, and that is Stanwell
Perpetual. The typical species is a native rose M'ith spiny
stems, and flowering in summer. The above variety bears
double rosy flowers freely from May to November, and will
succeed on any sunny bank or wild part of the garden.
Ordinary rich soil suits its requirements, and no pruning
beyond thinning out the crowded shoots in ^larch is needed.
Plant October to March. Not suited for town gardens.
Perpetual Moss [Rom c.entifolia musrosa). — Closely allied
to the common Moss rose, but flowering in autumn as well as
summer. All free-flowering and requiring to be grown in a
rich soil as standards or dwarfs. They are not to be com-
mended for culture in town gardens. No collection of roses
in the suburbs, where the air is fairly pure, or in the
country, should fail to include this type of rose. Reqiure
the same treatment and pruning as the Moss type (see pages
18 and 19). The best varieties are Blanche Moreau, white;
Madame \\'. Paul, rose ; \^''hitc Perpetxial, and Madame
Edouard Ory, rosy carmine.
Polyantha (Rosa polyantha). — A tender, summer-blooming
tj'pe of rose, a native of China and Japan, and allied to the
multiflora t^-pc. The)' are of climbing habit, and require to
be grown against a south or south-west wall in a sheltered,
sunny position. Not adapted for town gardens ; should be
TYPES OF ROSES. 25
grown in a rich soil, planted in Marcli or April, and prnned in
April. In pruning remove the tips of the strongest shoots,
shorten the medium-sized ones about a third, and cut away the
weakest entirely. Grandiflora and the Single White are
white-flowered, and Claire Jacquier, nankeen yellow and double.
These roses require protection in winter, and are not suitable
for cold districts.
Polyantha Perpetual {Eom multiflora.) — These differ
chiefly from the polyantha type in blooming in autumn as well
A Typical Polyantha Perpetual Rose.
as summer. Some of the varieties are suitable for climbers
against south or south-west walls in warm, sheltered districts,
aiid others of a dwarfer habit are best adapted for pot culture
in cold greenhouses. The latter type are scarcely suitable for
outdoor culture except in the south. They are all very
beautiful, free-blooming roses, and very fragrant. The only one
adapted for climbing is Mdlle. Jeanne__Ferron, a satin rose-
coloured variety. Those that are specially suitable for pot
26 CULTIVATED ROSES.
culture iii-c! : Mignonette, soft rose and white ; Pacquerette,
pure white ; Little Dot, soft pink ; Annie Marie de ^luntravel,
white ; and Perle d'Or, nankeen yellow. None of these exceed
a foot in height. For pot culture they should be potted in
autumn in a compost of two parts sandy loam and one part
decayed cow manure, and placed in a cold greenhouse or frame.
Scarcely any water sho\ilcl be given until growth begins.
Prune early in March, catting the strong shoots back to three
"eyes," medium ones to two "eyes," and the weakest to one
" eye." No artificial heat must be given at any time. After
flowering in July, repot and stand the plants outdoors in a
sunny position until October, then remove to the cold frame or
greenhouse.
Prairie {Rosa rahifolia). — A North American species, intro-
duced in 1830, and but little grown in this country. A number
of varieties of this rose are grown in America, and they are
said to piroduce some remarkably fine but nearly scentless
blooms. Mr. W. Paul, the veteran rosarian, however, expresses
an opinion that at present they ai'e of little value, but that
it might be [j(jssible some day to raise a new race of roses
from them that would prove an acquisition. The best known
varieties ai-e Baltimore Belle, pale blush, double ; Uem of the
Prairies, crimson and white, fragrant ; and Queen of the
Prairies, rosy-purple, double. These roses are summer
bloomini;, and arc best grown as dwarfs in good ordinary soil
and a well-drained border. Prune closely, i.e., shorten the
previous }'ear's shoots to two or three eyes or buds from their
base.
Rose de Rosamane {Rosa imUcu). — The varieties grouped
under this heading are generally to be found in catalogues
under the liead of Hj'brid Perpctuals. They are really of
mixed parentage, possessing the characteristics of the hybrid
Chinese, tea-scented, and Bourbon, and are distinguished from
the ordinary hybrid perpetual by the brilliancy and richness of
the colour of their blooms. Thov arc autumu bloomers — that
is, flower from June to November — and vigorous growers.
Some of the varieties, like Kmj)ereur do Maroc, do best as
dwarfs ; whilst others of a more vigorous type, Hke Gloire de
Rosamane, prefer to be grown against a wall. The dwarf
sorts also do well in pots under the same treatment as that
accorded to tea roses. They are p\u-e-air roses, therefore will
not do well in town gardens. Here is a selection of varieties of
TYPES OF ROSES. 27
moderate growth : Empereur de Maroc, maroon ; and Louis
XIV., blood red. Also of sorts of vigorous growth : Eugene
Appert, scarlet and crimson ; Geant des Batailles, crimson and
purple ; Gloire de Eosamanes and Princess Mathilde, crimson-
maroon. Prune the moderate growers to two, three, or four
eyes, according to the vigour of the shoots, and simply thin
out the weak and shorten the strong shoots of the vigorous
growers about one-fourth. Early in April is the best time to
prune.
Rugosa (Roia rugosa). — A Japanese species, introduced in
1845, and now largely cultivated for the sake of its showy
crimson and white flowers, its brilliant scarlet haws in autumn,
and its handsome evergreen foliage. The typical species bears
single crimson flowers, but there is also a single white variety
named R. rugosa alba, a double crimson form known as
R. rugosa flore-pleno, and a double white named Blanc Double
de Coubert. Then there are two beautiful hybrids, both double-
flowered and having blooms the shape of a tea rose when
in the bud stage of formation. Madame Georges Bruant
is a white variety, producing its blooms in clusters, and
Mungo Park has large double blooms of a deep glowing
crimson colour, shaded with purple. Both kinds are thoroughly
hardy, and may be grown in company with the older sorts in rich
soil in an open sunny border, or as isolated specimens on a lawn.
All the roses belonging to this type do well in town gardens. No
pruning b eyond shortening a ,straggling_shoot now and then is
needed ; aTToWthe plants to grow freely, and then abundance
of blossom and plenty of haws will be obtained, and the garden
made lively from June to December.
Scotch {Bosa spinodssima^. — The typical species is a native
rose, growing freely in a wild state in many parts of this
country, but more particularly in Scotland. There are a large
number of varieties which bear delioiously scented double
flowers of various shades of yellow, pink, white, purple, and
red throughout the summer. They are thoroughly hardy, and
will grow in any ordinary soil on banks, rookeries, or borders
where it is not possible to grow other types of roses. As a rule
they do not exceed 30 inches in height, and form dwarf,
compact little bushes. No^pruning is reguired j indeed, it would
not be an easy task to do it, as the shoots are furnished with fear-
fully long and sharp spines which tear the flesh terribly unless the
hands are well protected by exceptionally thick gloves. The
D
28
CULTIVATED ROSES.
Scotch rose lias a hahit of pushing up underground stems for
some distance from the parent i)lant, and hence in a few years
one or two plants will form an impenetrable mass of growth
which will flower freely throughout the summer. We advise
those who purpose starting to grow Scotch roses to purchase
mixed seedlings. The.se will provide a great variety of colour
and answer a.s well as named sorts.
^^^s—
A Typical Scotch Rose.'
Sweet Briar {Rosa rubiginosa). — This is also a native
species found growing wild in almost all parts of the kingdom,
as well as in other parts of Europe. The typical species is
interesting only for the fragrance of its leaves and for its
scarlet haws in autumn. It is sometimes grown to form a low
boundary hedge, and it answers this purpose well. Plant the
briars a foot apart for this purpose. If not grown as a hedge
rose, a plant or so in a sunny border (ordinary soil) will be
sufficient. There are several varieties in cultivation. The
TYPES OF ROSES. i^
Double Scarlet ; Celestial, semi-double bhish ; and the
Double White are the ones most commonly met with. No
pruning beyond thinning out the shoots and shortening
straggling ones occasionally is required.
Tea-scented {Rom indAca). — The roses grouped under this
heading may be said to represent the creme de la cremi of the
rose famil}'. Exquisite in the delicacy, variety and superb
loveliness of the tints of their beautiful blooms ; unspeakably
A Typical Tea-scented Rose.
delicious in their fragrance ; invaluable for the freedom with
which they flower, and for the long duration of their flowering
period, they are unquestionably the finest class of roses we
have in cultivation at the present day. What finer type of
rose could we wish for than we have in Mar6chal Niel, the
prince of tea roses ? And there are numbers of others that
are equally worthy of praise in this section. But they speak
for themselves. The old proverb, "Good wine needs no bush,"
may indeed be fitly and aptly a])plied to the tea-scented roses.
D 2
30 CULTIVATED ROSES.
All the varieties, and they may be counted by hundreds, have
descended from the Old Blush Tea-scented rose, introduced in
1810, and a yellow variety, which made its appearance here. in
1824, by a system of crossing and inter-crossing adoj)ted by
English and French rosarians. Coming originally from so
warm a climate, the varieties are naturally somewhat tender
in constitution, and hence require to have greater care bestowed
on them than on other types.
To grow tea roses successfully out-of-doors a well-drained bed
and a sunny, sheltered position is necessary for the dwarf sorts,
whilst for the tall ones a south or south-west wall is desirable.
Tea roses like a pure air, too, and therefore do not prove good
town plants, so that we advise those of our readers who do
not live in a salubrious district not to waste time, money, and
space in attempting to grow tea roses. Wherever grown the
plants need a certain amount of protection from frost. This is
generally given in two ways, by drawing the soil up so as to
bury the base of the shoots, or covering the shoots with litter
or bracken. The soil should be light and rich. Heavy, clayey,
and wet soils are quite unsuitable ; and if any one having
such a soil desires to grow tea roses successfully, they must
prepare a special bed or border for the purpose. This can be
done l)y taking off the top spit and putting it on one side, then
removing a second spit, and wheeling this away and putting
in its place a mixtvire of fresh long manure, cinder ashes,
burnt clay, road grit, partially decayed tree leaves, soot, and
lime. Work this well into the third spit, then place the top
spit thereon, and put a layer of good fat cow or pig dung on
this, and finish off with some good light, generous mould. Do
this, then you will have a capital soil for tea roses.
Planting should be done in October, or early in November.
If it cannot be done then, defer it until the end of February
or early in March. For methods and time of pruning, see
Schedule of Cultivated Roses.
SELECTIONS OF ROSES. 31
SELECTIONS OF ROSES.
Climbers for North and East V^alls. — Felicity Perpetud
(evergreen), ^white ; Kuga, :wbifcei \ and Dundee Rambler
(Ayrshire), '^cMf "j Amadis (Boursault), red ; Climbing Aim6e
Vibert (noisette), white.
Climbers for South and West Walls. — Crimson Rambler,
crimson ; Claire Jacquier, nankeen yellow ; Marechal Niel,
yellow; Gloire de Dijon, buff; W. A. Richardson, copper;
Banksian (two), white and yellow ; Madame Berard, salmon-
rose ; Blairii No. 2, blush-pink.
Climbers for Covering Arbour or Pergola Quickly. —
Evergreen Rose (Felicite Perpetue), Ayrshire Rose (Dundee
Rambler), and Boursault Rose (Amadis).
Climbers for Wire Arches. — Climbing Aimee Vibert,
white ; Madame Berard, salmon-rose ; Gloire de Dijon, buff ;
Crimson Rambler, crimson ; W. A. Richardson, copper ; and
Reine Marie Henriette, red.
Climbers for Shady Trellises. — Ayrshire, Evergreen, and
Boursault roses.
Climbers for Sunny Trellises. — Madame Berard, salmon-
rose; Gloire de Dijon, buff; Cheshunt Hybrid, crimson;
Crimson Rambler, crimson ; L'Ideal, coppery ; Climbing Aimde
Vibert, white; Flora, fleshy white; Longworth Rambler,
crimson.
Climbers for Pillars. — Crimson Rambler, crimson; Climbuig
Souvenir de la Malmaison, blush ; Pink Rover, pale pink ;
Madame Plantier, white ; Glory of Waltham, crimson ; and
Madame Berard, salmon.
Climbers for Greenhouse. — Marechal Niel, yellow ; Gloire
de Dijon, buff; Reiue Marie Henriette, red; Souvenir d'un
Ami, pink ; Climbing Niphetos, white ; W. A. Richardson,
coppery ; La Marque, yellow ; Bouquet d'Or, yellow ; Pink
i-2 CULTIVATED ROSES.
Kcivcr, pink ; Climbing Devoniensis, white ; Waltham Climber
orimson ; and Madame Pierre Cochet, orange-yellow.
Twelve Teas for Buttonholes. — Anna Olivier, salmon ;
Corinna, flesh, rose, and coppery ; Homer, rosy-white and
salmon ; Isabella Sprunt, sulphur yellow ; Ma Capucinc,
coppery ; Niphetos, white ; Sunset, apricot ; ^\^ F. Bennett,
crimson; The Bride, white; Madame Falcot, apricot-yelloNV ;
Madame Chcdano Guinoisseau, canary -yellow ; Marie A'an
Houtte, white, rose, and yellow, ilay be grown outdoors or in
pots.
Two Beautiful Noisettes for Buttonholes. — AV. A.
llichardson, orange-yellow, and Madame Pierre Cochet, orange-
yellow.
Twelve Hybrid Perpetuals for Buttonlioles — Bril-
liant, crimson ; Charles Lamb, red ; Crown Prince, purplish-
crimson ; Emperor, black ; Fisher Holmes, scarlet-crimson ;
General Jacqueminot, red ; Gloirc Lyonuaise, white and yellow ;
La Fraicheur, rose and carmine ; Gustave Piganeau, carmine-
lake ; Jean Cherpin, pui-plish-red ; Prince Camillo do Rohan,
crimson ; and Empress, white and pink. May be grown out-
doors or in pots.
Twelve Teas for Pot Culture. — Anna Olivier, salmon ;
Catherine Mermet, flesh ; Niplietos, white ; Papa Gontier,
crimson ; Madame Falcot, apricot-yellow ; Madame de AVatte-
ville, salmon white ; Grace Darling, creamj'-white ; Franoisca
Kruger, coppery yellow ; Porle des Jardins, straw ; Viscomitess
Folkestone, salmon-pink ; Madame Lambard, salmon-pink ; and
Souvenir d'un Ami, pink.
Twelve Hybrid Perpetuals for Pot Culture. —
Baroness Rothschild, rose ; Captain Christy, flesh ; Charles
Lefebvrc, crimson ; Crown Prince, ijurplish crimson ; Fisher
Holmes, scarlet ; General Jacqueminot, red ; Gloire Lyonnaise,
white and yellow ; La France, silveiy rose; Madame Gabriel
Ltiizet, i)ink ; Magna Charta, carmine and pink ; Merveille de
Lyon, white and rose ; and (|)ueen of C^lueens, blush.
Twelve Roses of other Types for Pot Culture. — Little
Gem (moss), crimson ; Charles Lawson (hybrid Bourbon),
rose ; Souvenir de la Malmaison (Bourbon), blush ; l!eline
Forestier, j'ellow ; and Madame Caroline Kuster, yellow
(noisettes) ; Louise Margottin (Bourbon perpetual), rose ; Perlo
d'Or (polyantha), orange ; Cramoisie Superieure (Chinese) ;
SELECTIONS OF ROSES. 33
Fairy (Lawreuciana), rose ; Cabbage or Provence, rosy pink ;
Blanche Moreau (perpetiial moss), white ; Michel Bonnet
(Bourbon perpetual), rosy peach.
Twelve Hybrid Perpetuals for a Town Garden.—
Beauty of Waltham, rosy carmine ; Charles Lefebvre, crimson ;
Dr. Andre, dark red ; General Jacqueminot, red ; Glory of
Waltham, crimson ; John Hopper, rose ; Magna Charta, pink
and carmine ; Mrs. John Laing, pink ; Prince Camille de
"Eohan, maroon ; Madame Victor Verdier, cherry red ; Jules
Margottin, cherry ; Violette Bowyer, white and flesh.
Twelve Mixed Roses for a Town Garden. — Aimee
Vibert (noisette), white ; Bouquet d'Or (noisette), yellow ;
Charles Lawson (hybrid Bourbon), rose ; Chenedole (hybrid
Chinese), vermilion; Coquette des Blanches (noisette per
petual), white ; Madame Berard (tea), salmon ; Madame Georges
Bruant (hybrid rugosa), white ; Madame Plautier (hybrid
noisette), creamy white ; Safrano (tea), apricot ; Sombreuil
(tea), white and rose; Gloire de Dijon (tea), buff; Madame
Hardy (damask), white.
Twelve Weeping Roses to be Grown as Standards.
— Aimfee Vibert, white ; Celine Forestier, yellow ; Crimson
Rambler, crimson ; Desprez i fleur Jaune, red, buff, and
sulphur ; Dundee Rambler, white ; Felioite Perpetue, white ;
Flora, rose; Gloire de Dijon, buff; Myrianthes Renoncule,
blush ; Reine Marie Henriette, red ; Ruga, flesh ; Virginian
Rambler, pink.
Twenty-four Mixed Roses for Ordinary Garden
Decoration. — Cabbage or Provence, pink ; Little Gem,
scarlet and crested rose (moss) ; Madame Zoetmans, white and
buff (damask) ; Rosa Mundi, red, striped white (French) ;
Harrison's yellow (Austrian) ; Charles Lawson, crimson (hybrid
Chinese) ; Blanche Moreau (perpetual moss) ; Gloire des Poly-
antha, rose (polyantha) ; Souvenir de la Malmaison, blush
(Bourbon); Celine Forestier, yellow, and W. A. Richardson,
orange (noisette) ; Monthly Rose, pink (China) ; F61icite [Par-
mentier], blush (Alba) ; Boule de Neige, white ; General
Jacqueminot, red; Mrs. John Laing, pink; Crown Prince,
purplish crimson ; Prince Camille de Rohan, maroon (hybrid
perpetuals); Safrano, apricot; Gloire de Dijon, buff; Madame
Berard, salmon ; Marie Van Houtte, white and yellow ; Homer,
rose, white, and salmon (teas).
34 CULTIVATED ROSES.
Twenty-four Hardy Tea Roses for General Culture.
— Madame Lambard, salmon pink ; Marie van Houtte, white
and yellow ; Anna Olivier, flesh ; Souvenir d'un Ami, pink ;
Gloire de Dijon, buff; Eubens, white and rose; Francisca
Kruger, coppery yellow ; Hon. Edith Giffkrd, salmon-rose ;
Jean Duoher, lemon to salmon-yellow ; Madame Caroline
Kustcr, pale yellow ; Homer, white and salmon ; Catherine
Merniet, flesh ; Madame Willermoz, white and salmon ; Madame
Bravy, cream ; Madame Berard, salmon-rose ; Belle Lyonnaise,
canary yellow ; Madame Cusin, purplish rose ; Madame de
Watteville, salmon-white ; Etoile de Lyon, safFron-yellow ;
Innocente Pirola, cream ; Jules Finger, rosy salmon ; Safrano,
apricot ; Madame Falcot, apricot ; Grace Darling, creamy white
and peach ; Niphetos, ^vhite.
Twenty-four Hybrid Perpetuals for General Culture.
— La France, peach ; General Jacqueminot, red ; Duke of
Edinburgh, pink ; Baroness Kothschild, pale rose ; Fisher
Holmes, reddish scarlet ; Madame Gabriel Luizet, pink ; Ulrioh
Brunuer Fils, cerise-red ; Prince Camille de Rohan, maroon ;
Boule de Neige, white; Captain Christy, flesh; Dupuy
Jamain, cerise ; Madame Eugene Verdier, silvery rose ; A. K.
Williams, carmine-magenta ; Heinrich Schiiltheis, pink ;
Charles Lefebvre, crimson ; Merveille dc Lyon, rosy white ;
Marie Baumann, carmine ; Marquise de Castellane, rose ; John
Hopper, rose ; Violette Bowyer, white and flesh ; Louis Van
Houtte, amaranth ; Alfred Colomb, red ; Jules Margottin,
cherry red ; Beauty of "Waltham, rosy carmine. N.B. — Those
who wish a selection of six varieties should take the first half-
dozen in the two preceding lists ; those who want twelve the
first dozen.
Sweet Scented Roses. — Teas and Noisettes. —
Socrates, Catherine Mermet, Souvenir d'un Ami, Madame
Cusin, Adrieune Christophle, Aline Sisley, Comtesse liiza du i
Pare, Devoniensis, Goubalt, Louis de Savoic, Primrose Dame,
Rubens, Souvenir de Paul Neron, The Queen, synonymous with
Souvenir de S. A. Prince, Souvenir de Madame Pernet, The
Bride, Viscomitcss Folkestone, Waltham Climber No. 2, Celine
Forestier, Jaune Desprez, Unique Jaune, Triomphe de Rennes,
Mar^chal Niel, and last, but by no means least, Gloire de
Dijon are all highly -scented teas and noisettes. There are a
few very sweetly-perfumed roses among the hybrid perpetuals
and Bourbons, the best perhaps being La France, Abel Grand,
SELECTIONS OF ROSES. 35
Souvenir de Charles Montault, Due de Montpeusier, Magna
Charta, Baronne Prevost, Beauty of Waltham, Mdlle.
Gabrielle Luizet, Augustine Guiunosseau de la Eeine d'Angle-
terre, Charles Darwin, Heinrich Sehultheis, Reine du Midi,
Lord Macaulay, Madame Furtado, Elizabeth Vigneron, Mon-
sieur E. Y. Teas, Marie Verdier, Mrs. John Laing, The Puritan,
Sir Garnet Wolseley, Paul Verdier, and Miss Hassard. Some
of the miniaftire roses are also very fragrant ; Anne Marie de
Montravel, Gloire de Polyantha, and Madame Cecil Brunner
being among the best. China roses are represented by that
best of Chinas, Mrs. Bosanquet, while of the mosses we must
name Soupert et Netting, Madame Moreau and Lanei. The
Microphylla rose. Ma Stiprise, is one of the sweetest-scented
roses grown. Souvenir de la Malmaison, and Baronne de Noir-
mont are good, also the old Cabbage or Provence Eose.
Several of the newer tea-scented roses are particularly sweets
scented. Among them we must include Madame Joseph Godier,
Sappho, Mrs. James Wilson, Kaiserin Friedrich, and Luciole,
in addition to those newer kinds already named.
Roses for Pegging Down. — Hybrid Perpetuals : Madame
Gabriel Luizel, pink ; Baron de Bonstettin, crimson ; Prince
Camille de Rohan, maroon ; Captain Hayward, carmine-
crimson ; Charles Lefeljvre, red and maroon ; Margaret
Dickson,' blush white ; Thomas Mills, crimson ; Duke of
Edinburgh, vermilion ; Mrs. John Laing, pink ; Camille
Bermardin, red ; Gloire de Margottin, red ; Violette Bowyer,
white and ilesh. Bourbons : Madame Isaac Pereire, carmine ;
Mrs. Paul, blush white. Hybrid teas : La France, pink.
Teas : Gloire de Dijon, buff; Marie Van Houtte, white and
yellow ; Madame Lambard, salmon pink ; Madame Berard,
salmon rose. Noisette : Madame Caroline Kuster, yellow ; W.
Allen Richardson, orange yellow.
36 CULTIVATED ROSES.
HOW TO PLANT ROSES.
Preparation of the Soil. — Ordinary soils — i.e., those that
are fairly rich, and do not retain too much moisture in winter —
simply require to be dug three spits deep — equal to at least
30 inclies — and have thick layers (2 or 3 inches) of decayed
manure mixed between the second and third spits. Light soils
also require to be dug deeply, and to have pig or cow dung
— not horse manure — placed in laj'ers beneath the second and
third spits. If possible, some heavy loam or clay should be
incorporated with the light soil. Heavy clay soils should, if
very wet, be drained to a depth of 3 feet, and afterwards
trenched to a depth of 3 feet, working in abundance of road
grit, leaf mould, burnt earth and fresh horse manure.
Where single plants only are to be planted, a space of not less
than 4 feet square should be prepared as above advised.
When to Plant. — Where possible, plant at the end of
October, or during November. Never plant in December or
January if it can be avoided. February, March, and the early
part of April are good months for spring planting.
Distance Apart and Depth for Planting. — Dwarf roses
should be planted IS inches apart, standards 3 feet, and
climbers from 3 to 4 feet apart. As to depth, plant standards
in holes 6 inches deep ; dwarfs and climbers sufficiently deep
to allow the junction of stock and scion to be buried about an
inch below the surface. In other ^vords, the part of the stem
where the plant was budded or grafted must be buried in the
soil to the depth of an inch. In the case of " own-root " roses,
plant in holes 6 inches deep.
Mode of Planting. — Dig out holes 15 to 18 inches square,
and to the depth above stated. Spread the roots out CA'enly
in every direction to their full length. On no account twist
the roots round, beca\ise the diameter of the hole will not
permit them to be spread out at full length ; rather make the
hole wdder to accommodate the roots. (lo^'cr the roots with fine
HOW TO PLANT MOSES. 37
soil free from maniire. Work it avoII between them, so that
they do not touch each other. Give a gentle tread with the
foot, then add more soil ; tread firmly, and finally fill up the
hole, afterwards making the soil absoKitely firm.
General Remarks. — If the roots of the roses are dry when
they arrive, soak them for an hour or so in water before
planting. Take care also to cut off all jagged ends of wounded
roots. Should the weather be frosty or very wet at the time
the plants arrive do not unpack them, but place the package
in ii cool place until planting can be performed In the case
of standards, place a stout stake to each plant before the roots
are covered with soil, and secure the stem firmly to it. This
is best accomplished by placing a strip of leather or sacking
round the stem, and then securing the latter to the stake by
means of a ligature of tar twine or copper wire placed over the
bandage. The ligat\ire then will not injure the bark of the
stem. Dwarf roses require no staking. Climbing roses should
not be securely fastened until each plant has had time for its
roots to settle down. All that remains to be done is to
properly laljel each variety, and to mulch the surface to a
distance of IS inches or so from the stem of each plant with
littery manure.
38
CULTIVATED ROSES.
PRUNING ROSES.
In the schedule of roses at the end of this book, the following-
terms are used in the column devoted to pruning to indicate
the kind of pruning reqviired by each variety: — "Close,"
"hard," "medium," "half," "little." We will now proceed to
explain the meaning of these terms, which were necessary in
order to get so much information in a given space.
Hard Pruning. — This means that the shoots of the
Fig. 1.
Fi(5. 2.
previous year's growth arc to
or dormant bud from tliuir
be cut back to the second "eye "
)ase, as indicated by short thick
PRUNING ROSES.
39
lines at the base of the shoots of the plant figured in accom-
panying illustration. At the same time, all very weak shoots,
or those that are two or more years' old, if unhealthy are to
be cut away entirely. The second diagram (Fig. 2) shows the
previous year's shoots (A B C) which were advised to be
shortened as per example (Fig. 1) ; also the weak and older
growths (D E F) indicated by dotted lines, which are to be cut
away. This mode of pruning ensures vigorous growth and
fine blooms for exhibition.
Close Pruning. — In this case the shoots are to be
shortened to four or six "eyes" or dormant buds, as indicated
Fig, 3.
by thick lines on upper part of the shoots, ABC (Fig. 1).
Here also, as in the case of hard pruning, weak and old or
useless growths (D E F, Fig. 2) are to be cut away entireh'.
Standards require to be pruned as shown by short lines near
base of shoots in Fig. 3. Very weak shoots should be entirely
removed.
Medium Pruning. — Here the shoots of the previous year's
40
CULTIVATED ROSES.
growth must not be out back so short as in the case of close
pnming. For example, cut them back pretty much after the
style indicated by the short lines in Fig. 4 ; that is, all the
strong shoots to about eight "eyes" or dormant buds, the
medium-sized ones to about four, and the weakest to two buds.
Where the upper part of a fairly strong shoot is furnished with
weak sprays, shorten the shoot to lielr)\v' these.
Half Pruning'. — This simply means shortening all strong
shoots of the previous year's growth about half way, and
Fig. 4
=r"{&-
Fig. 5.
cutting away all very weak growths. The annexed diagram
(Fig 5) will show clearly what wo mean.
Little Pruning-. — By this is meant cutting off the soft
tips of the previous year's shoots as indicated by short lines at
PRUNING ROSES.
41
end of black shoots in Fig. 6. All weak or diseased growths,
indicated by dotted lines, are to l>o cut away entirely. In
r~/ / / / 7-7-7
the case of standard trees a similar rule should be followed
where little pruning is advised.
General Remarks.— In pruning always use a Iteen-bladed
knife in preference to scissors or secateurs, as the latter often
seriously wound the bark and cause the shoot to die. Cut
back, too, to a bud pointing outwards, as depicted at C, Fig 7,
and not at a distance from it as in the example A, otherwise
42
CULTIVATED ROSES.
the shoot will in due course be similar to B. Always endeavour
to keep the centre of the plant open and free from weak and
useless shoots which are valueless for yielding flowers, and liable
to easily fall a prey to insects and fungoid pests.
Summer Pruning. — Where this is recommended, it means
that the shoots must be shortened or thinned out in order to
get the plants to flower satisfactorily.
Disbudding. — This is a form of pruning practised by some
to ensure vigorous yoimg growths. It consists of rubbing off'
with finger and thumb any young weakly growths in an early
stage of their formation, in order that the whole efforts of the
plant may be concentrated on the development of three or four
strong shoots only. It is usually done in May.
POT EOSES.
4.3
POT ROSES.
No phase of horticulture gives more pleasure to the amateur
than the growth of roses in pots. To have well -formed,
brightly-coloured, and deliciously perfumed blossoms of the
finest varieties in April and May is the height of ambition to
Ste^?^J«r•■4:^*:,^.-**iaHMil
A RosAKicM OR KosE Garden.
the amateur cultivator. Without special means it is difficult
to have the various varieties of hybrid perpetuals in full flower
before the time alluded to. With an ordinary greenhouse
convenience the plants will flower freely, and, at the same time,
K
44 CULTIVATED ROSES.
last many more years than those which are subjected to hard
forcing annually to get them in flower earlier than March.
Many varieties of roses succeed upon their own roots, while
others — and very often they are some of the best — are too
weak in growth to succeed without aid from other stocks.
Best Plants for Pot Culture. — Speaking generally,
roses in pots may be grown successfully by purchasing early
in November the required number of plants growing upon the
manetti or seedling briar, as if for out-of-door cultivation.
Such plants are generally plentifully furnished with roots, also
with from three to six shoots. By growing them slowly the
first season they become well established as pot plants, and
will gi^'c good blooms in iilay without any artificial heat what-
ever ; indeed, it is better that thej' should have none the first
j'ear so as to give time for the plants to recuperate themselves
from the check of replanting.
Potting'. — Pots eight inches in diameter are large enough
for the strongest plants the first year ; in fact, roses do not
Fro. 1.— How TO Prune a H.P. Rose.
require extra large pots at any time. Cut all strong-growing
roofs to within four inches of their base. Drain the pots care-
POT ROSE^. 45
fully and pot moderatelj- firm jn a compost of three-parts fibry
loam, one part of half-decayed horse manure, with the addition
of a handful of bone meal to every peck of the compost.
Stand the plants in a cold frame until the new year, or even
a month later. If the soil is moist, as it should be when used,
but little water will be required until new growth is pushing.
Just give sufficient to keep the soil moist and no more. Early
in January cut the plants down to within four inches of their
base to induce strong shoots to form (see short lines A in
accompanying diagram. Fig. 1). Give the plants a position as
near the glass as possible, where they will get abundance of
air and light to induce a stocky growth. Water must be
liberally, yet carefully, supplied. Syringe the plants overhead
occasionally with tepid water to keep the foliage clean and
free from dust and insect pests.
Insects. — When the shoots are a few inches long greenfly
may be troublesome to the points ; if they are allowed to
remain the tender leaves will be crippled and the growth
checked. Fumigating with tobacco is the best remedy for
green or black fly. Should but one or two shoots show
symptoms of the presence of aphides, a good way to get rid
of them without the trouble of fumigating the whole house
is to dip the finger and thumb into clear water and gently
rub the affected part, squeezing the aphides. With a little
practice plants can be easily cleansed from aphides by this
simple remedy
General Treatment. — As soon as the plants have done
flowering stand them out of doors on a thick bed of ashes in a
thoroughly exposed situation to induce the wood to become
thoroughly ripened. Whilg the plants are in this position they
must not suffer for want of water at the roots. Early in
October they should be repotted if necessary. Those not
requiring it should have an inch or so of the surface soil
removed and replaced with fresh compost. Employ the same
mixture as previously described, and do not overpot the plants.
One size of pot is sufficient unless they are extra well rooted
and largely supplied with branches. Stand the pots in a cold
frame to prevent the soil becoming soddened by rain, which
cannot but hinder the progress of the roots. Early in January
prune the shoots to within four or six inches of where they
were shortened the previous year (see B, Fig. 1). Eeally
the strong shoots should be shortened to B, and the weaker
E 2
46 CULTIVATED ROSES.
ones to A. Teas and noisettes require pruning like example
shown in Fig. 2 ; that is, shorten all strong shoots about half
way, and moderate ones to within three inches of their base.
Stand the plants in the greenhouse where they can make
steady growth, giving them a temperature of 45 deg. by night
if they are required to be in bloom earlier than the previous
year. The same attention to watering, keeping in check insect
pests, and syringing the foliage as in the year previous, should
be attended to. When growth has so far progressed as to
expose the flower buds some stimulant supplied to aid in
inducing the blooms to grow to their fullest extent will be an
Fif:. 2. — How TO PmNE a Tea Rosk.
advantage. A sprinkle of artificial manure or bone dust will
have the desired effect. Liquid manure from cow, horse, or
sheep dung, with the addition of a little soot, will assist the
growth considerably.
Own- root Plants. — Plants growing upon their own roots are
useful in a small state. For instance, a plant in a three and a
half-inch pot and carrying one large bloom is a useful subject
for filling vases in rooms. Such plants are easily produced.
After the plants have flowered in May or June take off the
POT ROSES. 47
current season's shoots a few inches from the base, insert them
four inches long in a large pot, with the soil sunken sufficiently
low to enable the cuttings to be below the top of the pot, so
that they can be covered with a square of glass to maintain
them in a moist and close condition. Plunge the pot in a
gentle bottom heat, if possible, to induce roots to form early.
When well rooted remove the glass and admit air to the plants,
and a few days afterwards pot them off singly into three and a
half inch pots, still keeping them in the frame for a time until
they are thoroughly established in the pots. The following
year cut the plants down to within two or three eyes of the
Tdknbr's Crimson Ramblek Rose in a Pot.
base of new growth. From the newly formed shoots one full-
sized bloom will be obtained. Some plants will give one, others
two blooms. Varieties useful for this method of growth are :
La France, Baroness Rothschild, Marquise de Castellaine,
Edouard Morren, Magna Charta, John Hopper, and Madame
Therfese Levet.
48 CULTIVATED ROSES.
GREENHOUSE CLIMBERS.
This book would be considered incomplete by a very large
proportion of ovir readers if it did not contain a chapter on the
cultivation of climbing roses under glass, more especially that
ubiquitous variety, the Mar^chal Niel. Every year we receive
hundreds of letters asking for information how to treat this
rose in greenhouses, and although we have repeatedly given
very full details, yet we have not been able to satisfy the
requirements of readers of Amateur Gardening for any length
of time, for still enquiries on the subject pour in vipon us from
all quarters.
We have, therefore, decided to give an epitome of the culture
of the Marechal Niel from the pen of one of the most success-
ful growers of this rose — Mr. J. Landsell, which we sincerely
trust will meet the requirements of readers of these pages,
and enable them to grow both this and other climbing kinds
in the greenhouse with greater success in the future.
MARECHAL NIEL
How to Plant. — AVhen roses are put into pots they usually
ha"\'e good soil and drainage, but this is not always the case
when planted out. If there be a good depth of rich and sweet
soil, that is neither dust dry nor ver\- wet, a rose may be ex-
pected to do well without having any fresh soil added ; but if
there l)e any doubt about it, it is far better to use good turfy
loam, of a rather heavy nature, chopped up into pieces about
three inches square. To each bushel add a half -gallon
of raw bone meal and one gallon of wood ashes. Be very
careful the soil is neither wet nor dry before chopping it
up, as this makes far greater difference than many imagine
as to the plant succeeding or not. If convenient this soil
may be put in one corner of the house, and boards put two
sides of it, which, with the corner, will make a square like a
GREENHOUSE CLIMBERS. 49
box without a bottom, so that roots may eventually go into the
border underneath after they have exhausted the new soil
above, but of course if the soil in the border is known to be
bad it will be better to take some out and replace it with
fresh, and then pvit the other on top as first suggested. Roses
generally do better when planted in a raised position in a house
than in the border ; perhaps it is because they get more air
and better drainage. The soil should be rammed or
trodden quite firm as it is put in. If two bushels of
soil could be put into the corner it would be enough for
several years ; a less amount would answer fairly well.
If the planting be done during the autumn or winter, while
the rose is in a fairly dormant state, it should be allowed to
get rather dry before turning it out of the pot, so that the soil
will crumble away from the roots more easily. I like to
disentangle the roots as much as possible without breaking
them, as I find they start away much quicker and better than
when left in the ball. But if a plant is in full growth, with a
lot of young, active roots, I do not disturb them. It is better
to cover the roots with some fine, sandy soil or old leaf-mould,
finishing off with more of the turfy soil above. Give just
enough warm water to moisten the soil around the roots, and
water very sparingly afterwards until the plant starts freely
into growth.
First Pruning. — At the time of planting the plant should
be pruned half back, and if any flower- buds appear in the
spring they should be picked off at once. If the flowers were
left on it is very likely the plant would make no growth at all
the year after. It is best to let all the shoots grow freely
until you see an extra strong shoot coming out of the stem,
and when that has grown several inches, cut all the other
growths boldly back to this, so as to throw all the force of sap
into it, but care must be taken the shoot is not broken oiF. A
shoot of this description will often grow from ten to twenty
feet long. These long shoots may generally be left their full
length ; but sometimes there are several feet below the points
which is unripened, which, of course, must be cut back to solid
full-grown wood in the beginning of winter.
Winter Treatment. — The house should be kept quite
cool during the winter, and the soil just moist, but when
o-rowth commences in the early spring rather more water
must be given, and as soon as the flower-bads show, liquid
50 CULTIVATED ROSES.
manure should be given every other time water is appHed,
until the flowers are fully out.
Annual Pruning. — After the flowering is over, the growths
should be cut about half back, and the house be kept as cool and
airy as possible until new growth starts. Soon after new
growths are made, extra strong growths iisually come out
of the stem near the roots, and again the whole of
the top growths must be cvit back to these strong shoots. The
fact of cutting back to strong shoots one year seems an in-
ducement for strong shoots to come another year. This is a
far better system than leaving the old weakly wood on year
after year, as is often done Some recommend prvming hard
back after flowering in order to get strong shoots ; but we find
the half pruning much the safest way, until strong shoots are
formed.
Feeding and Top-dressing. — Roses never seem to get old
when treated in this way ; but after several years the soil gets
exhausted, and should then have a top-dressing every winter.
Bone-meal or dissolved bone-meal, also basic slag are good
manures for roses ; half a poimd of basic slag, mixed with a
gallon of wood ashes and spread over the surface, then covered
with a little soil, or one pound of bone-meal mixed with a
gallon of wood ashes, used the same way, makes a good top-
dressing.
In Pots. — AVlien grown in pots, the main shoot should be
trained up the rafter of a greenhouse, and any strong side
shoots be loosely trained up the side of this. Each autumn
shorten all weak shoots to three or four dormant buds or eyes,
medium ones to a foot, and stronger ones take up off their tips
only. The main shoot sliould not at any time be cut back as
advised for plants growing in boxes or beds, but merely have
their unripened tips taken off'. In all other respects treat the
plants as advised for pot roses generally.
Insects and Diseases — These are fully described in a
separate chapter, so need not be repeated here.
OTHER CLIMBERS.
Climbing Niphetos should be planted as advised for
Mardchal Niel. The weak shoots should be cut away directljf
after flowering, and the other ones shortened about one-
GREENHOUSE CLIMBERS.
51
third in winter, then fine growths 6 to 10 feet will be made
each season. Gloire de Dijon should be treated similarly.
Cheshimt Hybrid requires very little pruning, merely thinning
out weak and taking the tips off strong shoots in winter.
W. A. Eiohardson needs to be pruned somewhat close, cutting
out weak and shortening the stronger shoots to 8 inches or
so in winter. Belle Lyonnaise should be treated similarly to
Gloire de Dijon. Fortune's Yellow or Beauty of Glazenwood
needs to have all weak shoots out away, and the others shortened
about two-thirds. Treated as above advised any or all of the
foregoing roses may be relied upon to grow healthily and
flower freely in any amateur's greenhouse.
5:^ CULTIVATED ROSES.
MANURES FOR ROSES.
In the following notes we shall endeavoui- to give as much
information as possible on the subject of solid and liquid
manures for roses : —
Natural Manures. — Dean Hole, in his charming work, "A
Book About Roses," informs lis that, as a result of many
experiments, he found nothing to equal farmyard manure for
growing good roses ; and he is not alone in holding this view,
for most successful growers strongly believe in its efKoaoy.
By farmyard manure is meant the dung obtained from the
stable, cow byre, pigstye, poultry yard, or rabbit hutch, j^nd
there is no doubt they are right in taking this view, since such
manure not only provides most of the food required for the
support of roses, but also materially assists in mechanically
improving the condition of the soil.
The question then arises as to which of the kinds mentioned
above should have the preference. Well, this depends upon
the soil. If light, cow-dung or pig-dung is preferable to
horse-dung, because more cooling and solid. Horse-dung, on
the other hand, is better adapted for heavy soils ; owing to its
heating properties it warms the soil and, being more or less
spongy in texture, opens its pores, allows superfluous moist^ire
to pass away to the suljsoil and air to take its place.
The ideal manure for roses is, however, a combination of
cow, pig, horse, and poultry manure thoroughly mixed together
whilst fresh, and saturated from time to time with stable urine
or the drainings from the maniire-lieap collected in a tank.
Such a heap, turned over occasionally during the summer, will
form a rich, unctuous mass by autumn, and if d\ig in, or spread
as a mulch over the surface of the soil, left thus all the winter
and dug in the spring, cannot be surpassed for roses. It is
of no use applying manure that has been allowed to decay
naturally, because nearly all the essential salts have been
waslied out or evaporated, leaving a mass of inert matter of no
value, except from a mechanical point of view. If it were pos-
MANURES FOR ROSES. 53
sible to procure some gypsum and sprinkle some of this among
the manure before decaying, it would assist in fixing the
ammonia, and prevent the loss of valuable plant food. A
sprinkle of common salt is eqvially effective. Fresh horse
droppings are also excellent for roses.
Peat moss litter, if allowed to remain in the stable long
enough to become well saturated with virine, is a valuable
manure for sandy soils ; it has binding and cooling properties,
apart from the large amount of nitrogen it holds as a result of
the urine saturation. But it must be used at once, not allowed
to remain in a heap exposed to the air, otherwise it will lose its
fertilizing value. If it cannot be used at once, water it with a
solution of sulphate of iron and water — 20 ozs. of the former
to a gallon of the latter, then the ammonia will be fixed.
Poultry manure, if used alone, should be mixed with an
equal proportion of dry soil, stored in a shed for a few months,
and then applied at the rate of a hundredweight per square
rod in spring.
Night soil is a most valuable manure for roses if properly
prepared before it is applied. It should, if possible, be mixed
with an equal proportion of dry earth and gypsum for light
soils, and with the addition of cinder ashes for heavy soils.
Mix all together and cover with boards or a layer of soil to
protect the heap from rain, and then in a few months the
material will be in the best possible condition for application
to the soil. It is always better to use it as a top-dressing in
spring. If gypsum be used there will be no unpleasant smell
arising at any time.
When to apply Natural Manures. — Where new beds
have to be formed the best time is in autumn, when the soil
is being prepared. Should the soil be heavy, use the manure
in a partially decayed state ; but if light, it is best applied in a
well decayed condition. Needless to say, the soil should be
trenched three spits deep at least, and have a good layer of
manure placed between each spit. But when roses are estab-
lished a different plan should be adopted. The manure should
then be spread over the surface of the soil in a liberal fashion,
and allowed to remain thus until the spring, then be forked in.
This serves a two-fold purpose : it protects and fertilizes the
surface, and when dug in adds to the root pabulum, and so
stimulates the growth of foliage, wood, and blossom to a greater
degree than it would if dug in in autumn.
54 CULTIVATED ROSES.
Artificial or CIieiTiical Manures. — No matter how
rich animal mamires may be, we cannot dispense with the aid
of some of the many kinds that come under this heading if we
wish to grow really good roses. In animal manures there is
necessarily a very large proportion of material which may be
considered as waste so far as it applies to plant support. In
artificial or chemical manures there is little, if any, waste, the
whole of it being availaljle for the support of the plants.
Intelligent rose growers, therefore, use animal manures for the
primary object of providing an agreeable anchorage or pabulum
for the roots — in other words, for improving the texture of the
soil and enriching it to a small degree ; and have recourse to
chemical manures for providing such additional food as may be
required.
In the list of manures coming under the latter heading, we
have superphosphate of lime, basic slag, nitrate of soda,
sulphate of ammonia, potash, and sulphate of iron, either alone
or in combination. Superphosphate of lime has been proved
over and over again to bcTan excellent fertilizer for roses, and
in any formula for a special rose manure should always pre-
dominate. Its office is to impart vigour and solidity to growth —
not to produce rank shoots, which are useless for bearing hand-
some blooms, but moderate, sturdy, growing ones, carrying
j_grand healthy foliage. On heavy, damp soils basic slag answers
jeven better. - ' - —
Potash assists in a similar way, and in the production of fine
flower buds. It is most valued in the nitrate form, but the
sulphate, of which kainit is now largely used as a source
because of its cheapness, will prove nearly as effectual.
Sulphate of magnesia is regarded as an essential ingredient
of rose manure, and so is sulphate of iron and sulphate of lime
(gypsum). The iron is saicT to add increased depth and
brilliancy to the blooms, and, according to Dr. (Jriffiths, serves
as an antiseptic, correcting the e-^'ils of over feeding with other
manures.
Sulphate of ammonia and nitrate of soda are sometimes used,
but they are not so essential as the foregoing. Both have a
tendency to encourage leaf growth at the expense of the
blossoms, and therefore require to be used with caution.
Sulphate of ammonia is of the most service to exhibitors, as by
its judicious aid blooms may be increased in size and bright-
ness of colour. Unlike other plant foods it becomes soluble
directly it is applied to the soil, and is easily assimilated by
MANURES FOR ROSES. 55
the roots ; besides, its presence in the soil enables other plant
foods to be readily available. It is best adapted for loamy and
clay soils. On light soils nitrate of soda should be used.
How to Use them. — Now as to the manner of using these
manures. For a good general manure we cannot do better
than recommend the following formula, which is largely used
by the leading rose growers : Superphosphate of lime, 48 lbs. ;
potash (kainit), 40 lbs. ; sulphate of magnesia, 8 lbs. ; sulphate
of iron, 4 lbs. ; sulphate of lime (gypsum), 32 lbs.=132 lbs.
Crush the ingredients up fine, mix them thorotighly together,
and then apply the mixture at the rate of a pound per square
yard in spring. If the beds were top-dressed with animal
manure in autvimn, sprinkle the chemical manure over this,
and dig the whole in. Such a dressing will make a wonderful
improvement in the growth of the plants, providing they are
in good health at the time the manure is applied. If it is not
convenient to apply the foregoing formula, try the following,
recommended in "Special Manures,"* and found to be a good
one : Dissolve half an ounce of superphosphate and a quarter
of an ounce each of sulphate of ammonia and sulphate of iron
in two gallons of water, and apply this quantity to each tree
once a week during May and June. Sulphate of ammonia and
nitrate of soda should be used at the rate of a quarter of an
ounce to a gallon of water, and applied about once a week
during the_ last week in May and the whole of June. It is
not advisable to continue to apply either after June ; better
apply soot water or ordinary liquid manure after then. For
pot plants the formula recommended by Dr. Griffiths is best.
Whenever any mamires are applied in a liquid form it is
best to do it when the soil is moist ; therefore, if it be dry,
give it a good soaking of clear water first. Where basic slag
is used, apply this at the rate of 4 oz. per square yard.
Guano. — Nothing has yet been said about guano, a good
all-round manure, which may be used in a dry state or in
solution. As a good guano contains an abundant supply of
the fertiliizing ingredients required by roses, it is to all
intents and purposes an excellent substitute for any of the
preceding chemical manures. It has, perhaps, one drawback
— it encourages rather too much leaf-growth However,
judiciously used at the rate of an ounce per gallon of water
* " Special Manures for Garden Crops," by Dr. A. B. Griffiths.
Price 2s. (148 and 149, Aldersgate Street, London.)
56 CULTIVATED ROSES.
during May and June, it will assist materiallj' in the develop-
ment of the blooms. From two to three gallons of water
should be given to each tree at intervals of ten days. Native
guano is good for roses. Fork into the soil around each tree
early in April about half a pound of the manure.
Special Compound Manures. — Beeson's Manure has also
been found a capital fertilizer for roses. Fork a handful into
the soil around each plant in March, May, and July. Clay's
Fertilizer, used dry or in solution, cannot be beaten as a
good general rose manure. It is rapid in action, as well as
lasting in its effects. Being highl}' concentrated, a little goes a
long way. For example, an ounce per square yard forked
in at intervals of a month from March to September, or
a large tablespoonful to a gallon of water applied at intervals
of a week during May and June will be found most effective.
Other good compound manures for roses are Albert's Concen-
trated, Colchester's Ichthemic, Corden's Fish-guano, With's Plant
Food, and Standen's Manure. Albert's is highly concentrated,
and requires to be used as advised for Clay's. The Ichthemic and
fish-guano require to be sprinkled thinly on the surface of the
soil and forked in. Do this in March, May, and July.
Liquid Manures. — This part of the subject has beenpartlj-
touched upon in the preceding paragraphs. All that remains
to be said is a brief reference to soot water, etc. Soot water is
a first-rate stimulant ; it imparts increased colour to foliage and
flowers. A peck of it enclosed in a bag, and put in a thirtj'-
six gallon cask of soft water, will in three days be ready to be
applied undiluted once or twice a week to roses in pots or in
open gardens. Horse, cow, or sheep manure, at the rate of a
bushel to a thirty-six gallon cask, adding a peck of soot, is also
an excellent liquid fertilizer. Apply it undiluted to outdoor
roses, and diluted with two-thirds water to plants in pots. Pig
dung used at the rate of a peck to a similar quantity of water
answers well. The best of all manures is poultry dimg. This
requires to be used with soot at the rate of half a peck of each
to thirty-six gallons of water. Ajaply undiluted to roses out-
doors, and diluted with one-third water for pot plants. The
solution prepared from poultry dung and soot is equal to
giiano-water in strength.
Blood, etc. — Something must be said about blood, bones,
malt dust, etc. Blood is rich in soda, potash, iron, and of great
MANURES FOR ROSES. 57
value as a source of food for roses. But it is not a pleasant
thing to use ; it is apt to emit an offensive odour. It may be
added in a fresh state to the beds, forking it in, or be mixed
with an equal bulk of dry soil and placed in a heap for a year
to decay. Dried blood is sold by manure vendors. This is a
good fertilizer for the purpose, and should be used at the rate
of two ounces per plant, forking it in in March. Crushed
bones and bone meal are also of some service, though not
essential. In making new beds, both may be used freely. Malt
dust, if well saturated with chamber slops or stable urine, and
allowed to ferment, is said to be a good fertilizer for top-dress-
ing roses. Brewers' grains, mixed with fine charcoal, are
occasionally used with good results for the same purpose.
Lastly, wood ashes, the residiie of burnt garden refuse, is an
excellent material for applying to beds at any season of the
year.
58 CULTIVATED ROSES.
PROPAGATION OF ROSES.
By Seed. — Seeds may be purchased, or procured from the
heps or fruits of good sorts of roses. When ripe and softening,
the heps must be gathered, buried in damp sand (somewhere
safe from rats and mice) and left till spring, by which time the
pulp will have decayed, and the seeds may be easily separated
and sown thinly in drills about a foot apart. Another plan is
to rub out the seeds as soon as they are gathered and sow them
at once. Some of the seeds will germinate the first year, but
not all, and probably not the best of them, so the seed rows
must not be dug up for at least eighteen months after sowing ;
any plants, however, which become big enough for transplanting
the first year must be carefully lifted out with most of their
roots intact and put into nursery rows, where they should be
protected during the first winter with some suitable surface
mulching. This transplanting should take place in October or
early in November, to allow time for a certain amount of root
action taking place before winter sets in. The second year all
the plants in the seed rows may be served the same way, for
seeds which have not germinated by this time will be worthless.
This batch should be most carefully looked after, as it will
probably contain the best of the seedlings. A year or even two
may elapse before any flowers appear, and even then the first
flowers must not induce us to condemn the plants, unless the
colour is bad, for most of the best varieties come semi-double
the first time they flower.
By Budding'. — This method of propagation is best per-
formed in July, and during showery weather if possible. For
standards, plant hedgerow briars the previous autumn, and for
dwarfs the seedling or cutting briar. Manetti and De la
Grifferaie stocks should be planted at the same time. All the
dwarf stocks should be cut down close to the ground in March.
In the case of standards, do not allow more than three shoots
to form on each plant. When the bark is firm enough to be
easily raised from the wood the stock is ready, and similarly
PROPAGATION OF ROSES.
59
will the buds 1)j when they assume a plump appearance, but
have not started, into growth. First remove the thorns from
the shoot A to be budded on — the nearer the base the better ;
then open the bark by making a long slit similar to 6, and a
transverse or cross slit at a. In the case of dwarf stocks make
the cut in the stem just below the soil. Next get the ivory
blade of the bvidding knife or a thin piece of wood, and gently
raise the bark on each side of the long slit so as to admit the
shield and bud. The next thing i s to see abou t thebud. Examine ■
a healthy shoot of the kind you wish to take the bud from, and '
select a bud that is fairly plump. Cut off the shoot first, then'
remove the bud with a portion of the bark and wood as in the .
example B c (/. On turning the bud over a small portion of ^
woody matter will be found, and this must be carefully removed.
C HE., ;■■ ;1 B C IIIFIA
Fio. 1. — How TO Bdd a Rose.
If on removing it there is a cavity left at d the bud is useless,
but if it is perfectly level with the inside of the bark c it will
be all right. A side view of the bud is shown at C. It will be
seen that the leaf is shortened close to the bud, and the upper
part of the bark or shield is out off level. Holding the bud in
the mouth to keep it moist, next proceed to gently raise the
bark, then introduce the lower end of the shield under the
bark at a A, forcing it gently down to h. If the upper part
projects above the cross slit a, out it off level with the latter,
and then get some soft yarn or bast, and tie this round
moderately firm, both above and below the bud as shown in
the example C. In the course of three or four weeks the buds
should be examined and the ties loosened if necessary, to allow
the bark to swell and unite over the shield. Tight tying is
60
CULTIVATED EOSES.
very injurious, iiiid lacerating of the bark unnecessarily often
causes the death of the buds.
By Grafting. — Grafting is very rarely carried out in the
open air, as it is not nearly so certain as the other methods
of propagation, and grafted plants have a knack of dying off
suddenly and without apparent cause. It is, however, useful
for establishing roses, as it were, by express, and for getting
good plants within the year, as may be easily done by operating
tf'
A B
Fig. i. — How to Gk.\ft a Rose.
under glass. ^Vhip grafting is the most simple and certain
method wliere stock and scion are about of a size, and crown or
cleft grafting when the stock is much bigger than the scion.
Tlie operation is carried oiit in exactl}- the same way as it is
with fruit and other trees, but more care must be taken in
selecting tlie sciims, for young rose wood is generally pithy,
and this is useless for grafting. A good deal of waste takes
place, as the whole of the upper portion of the young shoot
PROPAGATION OP POSES, 61
must be discarded, simply retaining for scions the well-ripsued
lower portions which show but little pith when cut. The stoclis
may be slightly active, just moving out of their winter's rest,
but the scions must be still quite dormant. If a genial moist
atmosphere can be maintained round the plants after grafting,
wax or clay may be dispensed with entirely and with advantage,
but the scions must be well tied on, and no portion of the cuts
exposed entirely to the air. Where grafting takes place low
down on the stock, a little soil heaped over the point of union
will be beneficial. Rose grafting should be carried out under
glass in February, or even earlier in the year. The seedling
brier forms the best stock for most roses. Fig. 2 shows how to
go to work to graft a rose. B is the stock which has to be cut
back to the position shown by dotted line. A thin slice is cut
off the stock A, and a similar slice off the lower end of the scion
b. Next a notch or tongue is made in the scion at b, and a
similar one in the stock A. The notch of b is then fitted into
the notch of A, and the stock and scion joined as shown at a
and b. When this is done, tie firmly with bass and surround
with grafting wax.
By Cutting^s. — The simplest mode of taking cuttings is to
get shoots of the present year's wood with a " heel " of older
wood attached. The unripe tips should be removed, leaving
the shoot from nine inches to a foot long. Cutting a groove in
the soil with a spade for the reception of the cuttings is the
best way of preparing the site, as one can then see that the
base of each cutting is firmly set on soil — a necessary pre-
caution. The cuttings should be buried two-thirds of
their length, leaving three or four buds out of the ground.
After insertion flood the ground, as this will wash the soil
well round the cuttings, and close all air spaces. If the soil
is naturally sandy, no addition is needful, but if the reverse an
inch or two of road grit round the base of the cuttings is
helpful. No manure of any kind must be used. October is
the best month for inserting rose cuttings i n the open ground,
but November w ill do almost equally well. In striking
cuttings urideFglass — the method usual with teas and weakly-
growing varieties — the above conditions should be followed as
nearly as may be, but as the time for striking is in the summer
(July), much care is needed in shading and watering ; the
cuttings must not be allowed to flag, neither must they be
overwatered, while strict attention to ventilation is also
f2
62
CULTIVATED ROSES.
necessary. The best place in which to strike roses under glass
is under a garden frame on a spent hotbed, which may have
been used earlier in the year for striking and raising bedding
plants. The pots used should be deep, such as are usually
sold for bulb-growing, and the drainage must be perfect. Eose
cuttings made without a heel of the older wood may be
induced to strike, but there is not nearly such a certainty with
them as there is when a heel is obtainable. In the latter case
Fii:. 3. — How TO Pkepake a Rose Cutting.
oue can depend upon an a\ci-agc of 95 per cent., while
without a heel probably 30 per cent, would be nearer the
mark.
By Layering. — This is one of the most simple methods of
rose pnipagation, and in tliis way \vc may soon establish big
Imshes witluiut trouble in providing stocks. (Jood shoots must
be ch(jseii early in summer, and at a convenient place the stem
should be cut half tbiough on the under side, the l)lade of the
PROPAGATION OF ROSES.
63
knife should then be turned so as to make a longitudinal cut
upwards for an inch or more through the centre of the shoot,
which should then be firmly pegged into a notch made in the
soil with a spade and the cut portion well buried, the whole
operation being precisely similar to that of layering a carnation.
By October roots will have been formed, and the shoot may be
entirely severed from the parent and removed to the spot
selected for its home. It is well, however, to make sure that
roots have been formed before the shoot is severed, which may
be found out by carefully removing a little soil near the buried
stem, as some varieties take two seasons before sufficient roots
have been formed to make the plant self-supporting.
4. — Rose Shoot with "Eye."
By Suckers. — Suckers are frequ^ently made by own-roo
roses, and these form a convenient means of obtaining new
plants. The reader must be careful, though, that it is a rose
he is getting, as cases have been known where a brier or Manetti
shoot has been fondly cherished for years with the idea that it
was a garden rose and that some day it would produce double
blooms. In taking suckers from the parent plant it is wise to
remove the surroimding soil until a convenient place for sever-
ance can be seen. If a root or two be found on the sucker
itself it should be cut below these, but if not, then it is necessary
fi4
CULTIVATED ROSES.
to trace it home to the old root-stock and remove a portion of
this with the sucker
By Division. — Some few roses which naturally produce
many shoots from the same tuft may be propagated by division,
and in this way we get most of our Scotch, Fairy, and China
roses and Austrian briers ; nearly every shoot of these can be
depended on to have some roots attached, and each of these
^Yill form a plant in itself. Division of roses scarcely needs
describing, but it is well to bear in mind that the best method
is to lift a big clump and carefully wash the soil from the roots,
'i ':':/// ',7 1'/.
Firi. .'i. — "Eye" Inserted.
as we can then see exactly where to sever the roots to the best
advantage, and all mutilated pieces may be easily cut away.
By Eyes or Buds. — Propagation by "eyes" is seldom at-
temjjtcd in this countrj', and it is at the best a tedious process.
It is really a striking of buds, and simply a development of
sti-iking liy cuttings, each cutting consisting of one leaf and one
Viud cut out as we should cut it for budding (Fig. 4), but
lea^-ing the wood attached instead of pulling it out ; in this
form tlie bits (Fig. 5) are piit into cutting-pot placed in heat,
and coaxed into root aud top-growth by considerable coddling.
This metlidd is not to be uenerallv reconnncnded.
ENEMIES 01 ROSES. 65
ENEMIES OF ROSES.
Following are the chief insect, fungoid, and animal pests
that attack roses in the garden and greenhouse, with brief
remedies for their eradication : —
INSECT PESTS.
Aphis or Qreen-fly {Aphis rosce). — Of all the enemies of
the rose this one must take the pre-eminence for destructive-
ness. It is a pale green, small, fly-like insect, with or without
wings, and with slender legs. Aphides are very tender, and
easily crushed. The mischief they perpetrate is that of
congregating around the points of the shoots and young
leaves, and sucking the juices therefrom, causing a stunted
growth. Although the individual insect is easily crushed and
destroyed, yet they are possessed of such an enormous power of
increase as to fully make up for their weakness. A single
female produces about ninety young ones. In a week or ten
days these again commence reproduction, and so on until ten
or a dozen generations are produced. The number of insects
thus brought to life is enormous, the second generation
amounting to 8,100, the third to 729,000, the fourth to
65,610,000, and so on. Can we wonder at our rose trees failing
with such a family to support? Fortunately they are subject
to enemies as well, which tend to keep them considerably
in check. During the summer aphides are viviparous, pro-
ducing their young alive, but in the autumn eggs are laid
which will not hatch till spring. As the winter destroys
all the existing aphides, early spring is clearly the most
favourable time to combat them. One of the best of
preventives is robust health in the rose bush ; a weak plant
is always more liable to an attack than a strong one.
Under glass the most effectual remedy appears to be fumi-
gation, or a strong syringing with clear cold water. The
use of the syringe or garden engine out of doors at frequent
66
CULTIVATED ROSES.
intervals proves very effectual in clearing a bush of these
pests or in preventing them eflfecting a footing. If stronger
measures must be resorted to, then some of the various insecti-
cides placed before the public should be used, or some home-
made remedy as tobacco water, prepared by dissolving 1| lbs.
of soft soap in two gallons of hot water, and mixing therewith
the juice obtained by steeping four oimces of tobacco in a quart
of boiling water and leaving until cold ; well mix and dilute
with twenty-five gallons of water. Quassia is also another
effectual insecticide. Give ten ounces of quassia chips a good
boiling in a gallon of water, and while hot stir in an ounce of
soft soap. Before using dilute with nine gallons of water.
Paraffin is another good insecticide if used with care. Boil
for a few minutes a pound of soft soap in a gallon of water,
then add a pint of paraffin and stir vigorously. A quart of
this mixture should be diluted with fifteen gallons of water,
and the bushes are the lietter for being well syringed with
clear water a few hours after an application.
Antler Sawfly {Claditis diformis). — The larva) or caterpillars
of this Hj are responsible for many of the perforated leaves or
Antlee Sawfly and Gkub.
scalloped edges found on rose trees. If such damaged leaves
be lifted up, the pest will be found on their undersides, either
stretched out or curled up ; if disturbed it drops to the ground.
Owing to this habit the larvsc may be caught wholesale by
laying sheets of paper on the ground and shaking the tree.
AA'liere only a few are seen, hand-picking should be resorted to.
ENEMIES. OF ROSES. 67
Syringing with tobacco-water is also effectual. The male fly
has antennae, which, when magnified, resemble stag's horns,
hence their popular name.
Caddice Sawlly {Lyda inanita^—l^aSs, is a less common
enemy, but one easily recognised by its effects. The female
lays its eggs on the leaves, and the young larva when hatched
commences to roll itself in a case formed bv a strip of the rose
Rose Caddice Sawfly and Lakv^.
leaf wound roimd and round its body. When full grown the
larva detaches itself from the case and falls to the ground,
where it burrows, and remains in the pupal state till the
following spring. Hand-picking is the best remedy.
Tenthredo cincta is another sawfly responsible for rose
shoots withering at times. The eggs are laid on the young
shoots, and, when hatched, the larvae work their way inwards
to the pith, which they feed upon As they feed they work
downwards until they reach the hard portion of the stem, by
which time they are full grown Here they make a cell for
themselves, and change into pupse and remain till the spring.
The only remedy is to remove and burn the affected shoots.
Leaf-Cuttingf Bee {Megachile centuncularis). — This bee pro-
duces a similar spoliation of the foliage to the antler sawfly.
It very carefully nips ovit of the edges of the leaves circular
pieces, with which it builds its nest. It does its work neater
68
CULTIVATED ROSES.
and with more exactness than the sawfly, and makes no per-
forations. The best remedy is to catch the bee with a butterfly
net. It possesses a sting.
Leap-Cutting Bee (see previous pacje).
Rose Grub Moth {Didijopteryx Bergmanmana). — The cater-
pillar of this moth is the pest which appropriates to itself the
nse of, usually, the three terminal leaflets on rose leaves. This
it dcies liy glueing them together. If disturbed, out it drops,
siispended Ijy a slender thread, up which — if nothing happens
— it returns. The moth resulting from this pest is a small
yellowish one. Squeezing the caterpillar while yet between the
leaves is the simplest remedy.
Ants. — These, though they do not directly injure plants
generally, yet in an indirect way often prove pests. Ants, as
is well known, take great care of aphides, and may often be seen
ENEMIES OF ROSES.
69
carrying the young ones to pastures new, so that they are
leagued with the gardeners' and with the rosarians' greatest
enemy. A sticky sweet liquid, called honey-dew, secreted by
the aphides, constitutes their attraction for ants, who feed upon
it. Cases have also been observed where rose blooms have
been, as it were, saturated with this honey-dew, and have been
eaten entirely by ants. The remedy is obvious ; if there are
no aphides there will be no ants. Vigorous syringing with
water or quassia solution will disturb the ants and cause them
to go elsewhere, while if their nest or runs can be traced,
paraffin may be poiired over them.
Lackey Moth {Glisiocampa neustria). — This pest does not
confine itself to the rose, being very frequent on fruit trees.
The moth lays its eggs in avitixmn in circles round the branches.
Lackey Moth and Laeva.
forming, as it were, a bracelet about half an inch in depth.
From these, black hairy caterpillars hatch out in spring and
form for themselves a web-nest from which they make excur-
sions for the purpose of feeding on the leaves. When full-
grown they separate for the pairpose of changing into the
chrysalis state. Wherever the eggs are seen they should be
destroyed, likewise the caterpillar nests.
Winter Moth {Gheimatohia brumata). — This is another moth
whose larvse are not confined by any means to roses, but are
very destructive to fruit trees. The caterpillar lives on the
leaves, some of which it very lightly joins together with a web.
70
CULTIVATED ROSES.
The male and female moths are very dissimilar, the latter
having only nidimentary wings, and can only crawl about.
They appear in late antnmn or early winter, and the female
crawls np the stem of the plants or trees for the purpose of laying
WiNTEK Moth and Larva {.see previous page).
eggs. Standards maj- be protected by binding round the stems
a band of grease-proof paper about a foot from the ground, and
smearing this with cart-grease, tar, or some other adhesive.
Infested bushes should be treated with the paraffin emulsion
advised for aphides.
Rose Beetle (Ceionia aurata). — This is a handsome beetle,
being bright green shaded with rich gold, and about three-
quarters of an inch in length. It may often be seen flying
round and over rose blooms during summer, or else engaged
in tearing the petals in its effort to get at the stamens and
pollen. White and light coloured roses are greater favourites
with it than dark ones. Hand-picking of the beetles is the
RcisE Chafer Beetle and L.irva.
only effectual remedJ^ The larvfc does no damage, as they
feed only on decaying vegetable matter.
Bedeguar Gall Fly {Cynipn rosw). — Most people have
observed what appear to bo small bunches of moss enclosing
ENEMIES OF ROSES.
Bedeguak Gall.
^^
a
Bedeguak Gall Fly, Chkys/ilis and Lakva.
CULTIVATED ROSES.
rose shoots on wild and sometimes garden roses. These are
galls, and known as the Bedoguar Gall or Eose Bedegnar. In
summer they are green, but change on tlic approach of autunm
to red. They contain grubs or maggots, which change to
pupae in the gall and emerge as small flies the following spring.
The galls are produced liy the irritation and stoppage to tlie flow
of sap owing to the insertion of eggs in the bark of young-
shoots by the fly, but why the growth should take the pecidiar
and pretty form it does is not exactly known. Their presence
is objectionable on garden roses, as the shoots are unable to
grow j)roperly, and should be cut off before the fly emerges.
8J-S5-
FROGHorPER (Aphrophora sphmaria).
Referhnces. — (I, Cuckoo-spit on Branch ; h. Perfect Insect Flying ;
r, Larva; d. Perfect In.sect ; Lines represent natural size.
Froghopper or Cuckoo Spit {Aphrophora spumaria). — The
presence of this insect is easily recognised by the little masses
ENEMIES OF ROSES. 73
of froth adhering to the branches of roses and other shruhs,
grass, etc. If this be brushed or washed away, a pale yellow
or green insect is seen ; this is the larva of the froghopper,
a brown insect seen in antumn, and which, if touched, jumps
to an incredible distance. The larva produces its frothy
covering from the sap of the plant on which it feeds. A good
syringing will get rid of the larvoe.
Red Spider {Acarus lellarius). — This pest is more prevalent
indoors than out, though not by any means confined there. It
is an extremely minute object of a red colour, and is hardly
discernible to the naked eye. It feeds on the under sides of
the leaves, which turn to a yellowish colour, and if very badly
Red Spider.
infested drop off. It flourishes best in hot and dry quarters,
and its greatest enemy is damp and cold water. Plants which
are effected should be well syringed with clear, cold water daily
until the enemy is eradicated.
Scale {Kermes Roses). — This pest puts in an appearance if
indoor roses are very much neglected. It is a tiny pale-
coloured or brown insect, which lies close to the bark and sucks
out the juice. It does not move except in a young state. The
dead females form a nest in which the young ones are hatched.
Sj'ringing with insecticides will kill the young scale, but the
older ones must be removed with a blunt stick or by means of
an old tooth-brush.
74 CULTIVATED ROSES.
Thrips {Thrips lemorrhoidalis). — This is a small white or
black insect affecting the lower surfaces of the foliage of roses
grown under glass. It causes the leaves to turn yellow, and
Thkips.
if such are turned over the pest will be seen, often accompanied
with little black dots of excrement. Fumigating or sponging
with soft soap and water is the best remedy.
DISEASES.
Anthracnose {Oloeoiporium rosarvtn, iZaZs.).- AVheu a rese
is badly infested with this fungus the leaves are small and
pale, and the canes die at the tips. Sometimes the stems may
be dead for a foot or nun-e from the extremity. Not infre-
quently one liraneli will be dead clear to the base, and some-
times t\\o or more are thus destroyed. The dead twigs show
pimples C[uite evenly distributed <n'er the surface, and from
some a minute, often curved, horn of a reddish colour protrudes.
AVhen such stems are placed in a moist chamber, the whole
decaying surface becomes closely coA'ered with numerous, almost
brick-red, masses of spores, and the disease spreads rapidly
through the adjoining parts of the twigs that seemed healthy
when placed in the moist chambei'. The rapidity with which
tlie fuug\is wmdd spread was a subject of surprise. In four
ENEMIES OF ROSES. 75
days from the time spores were introduced into sterilized
sections of rose twigs in test tubes, the whole of the culture
would be covered with the spore masses. This anthracnose
appears to be new, in that it has not been before studied
microscopically.
The Black Spot {Actinonema Jioste, IV.). — The Black
Spot is a very widespread and conspicuous disease of the rose,
first described in 1826, now known in many countries and often
much dreaded. The foliage when attacked soon develops the
characteristic black spots, and the leaves becoming elsewhere
pale shortly fall to the ground. As a result rose houses badly
infested with the black spot show bvit few leaves and fewer
blooms. This pest may be held in check by the carbonate
of copper compound, using three ounces of carbonate of copper,
one quart of ammonia, and fifty gallons of water. The spray-
ing should be done once a week, using a hose and a nozzle that
gives a fine spray. The point should be to wet every part of
the plant and yet not drench it. If many leaves have fallen
from the plants they should be gathered up and burned. As
with many other diseases, some varieties are more liable to the
black spot than others. When possible — that is, when all other
things remain the same — it is, of couree, wise to grow those
least susceptible to the disease.
Canker. — This is a disease which of late years has proved
exceedingly troublesome to growers of the Mar^chal Niel rose.
The lower part of the stems should frequently be examined,
and as soon as shrinkage or swelling is observed, cut a little of
the bark away to see if it is decaying. The earliest form of
canker is a shrinkage in the bark, caused by a fungoid disease,
which keeps spreading until it gets all around the stem, then
the part above it dies. But before this takes place, a swelling
of a warty appearance forms just above it; this is caused by the
descending sap being stopped in its downward course ; it seems
to be trying to make a growth to cover the wound, but, of
course, cannot do so. All this knotty excrescence, also the
shrinkage, should be cut away, and also all decayed wood and
bark ; sometimes there will be dark narrow streaks running
some 'distance beyond, these must be followed up until every
portion is cut away. Then dress the wound with either Bor-
deaux mixture, sulphate of iron, two ounces dissolved in a
gallon of water ; or sulphide of potassium one ounce to twelve
gallons of water. If none of these are at hand, rub the part
76 CULTIVATED ROSES.
well with flower of sulphur. After (whichever is used) make a
poultice of equal parts clay and cow manure and bind round
the wound. The summer is the best time for the operation,
as the wound heals over much more quickly then.
Mildew {Sphmrotheca pannosa, Wallr.) — One of the oldest
troubles of the rose grower is the mildew. This develops very
suddenly on the foliage in the greenhouse or outside it, giving the
leaves a powdery appearance, and causing them to become more
or less misshapen. In a mild form the foliage may be only mealy,
hut frequently the surfaces become uneven and the whole leaf
twisted. If left unheeded the enemy will ruin the plants
attacked, and knowing this a remedy has been found and long
applied in the shape of sprinkling the leaves with flowers of
sulphiir. Another good remedy to get rid of the mildew is
to close the house about eight o'clock in the evening, run
the temperature up to 75 deg., then with a bellows fill the
house full of sulphur, let the house remain closed until it
reaches 85 to 90 deg., then admit air gradually. A constant
circulation of air is likewise recommended for roses at all times.
Potassium sulphide one ounce to two gallons of water sprayed
upon the plants has proved an effective remedy. Rosarians,
from long experience, have come to the belief that rose mildew
is induced by a weak condition of the plant, resulting from
partial starvation, irregular or excessive watering, and undue
exposure to draughts of cold air. The best successes in rose
growing, as in all other things, attends those who give constant
intelligent care to the manv details.
Downy Mildew {P'-mnospora xpursi', Btrk.). — Some rose
growers are troubled with a second form of mildew which
differs in many ways from the one just mentioned. It is
less easy to detect, and being more deeply seated may do
greater damage before detected than the powdery mildew.
It is likewise less easy to eradicate, because it thrives within
the substance, while the sphterotheca feeds superficially. The
Peronospora sparsa is a close relative of many of the most
serious mildews, as those of the grape, onion, lettuce, spinach,
and the potato disease. The treatment for this is the same
as for the anthracnose to be mentioned later.
Rose Rust {Phragmidium mueronatum, Wint.). — The genuine
rust of the rose, similar to the rust of wheat, oats, and
other grasses, is not common in our section of the country
ENEMIES OF RORES: 77-
upon indoor roses. It is not unlikely that it may become
a pest here as it now is in California and other States in the
Union. Those who are familiar with the rust of the black-
berry need no further words of general description of this
fangus. It produces a mass of orange-coloared spores on
the foliage. There is very little to be said in the way of
treatment save that of cutting and burning all affected
plants.
ANIMAL PESTS.
Eel Worms. — One of the leading reasons for the many
complaints made by rose growers during the past year is a
microscopic worm that works principally at and in the roots.
These worms are in outline like that of an ordinary eel, and
under the microscope arc seen in almost constant motion.
They cause an enlargement of certain parts of the roots, and by
means of these galls or knots are easily detected with the naked
eye when the plant is removed from the soil and carefully-
washed of the adhering earth.
The term nematodes is also given to the eel worms, but
whatever the name they go by there is no doubt about their
injuriousness. The point that most interests rose growers
is how to get rid of the pest. In order to do this it will be
of much assistance to know where the worms come from,
how they propagate, and get into the roots of the infested
plants. These eel worms are much more abundant than
generally supposed, arid it is only wheij they get numerous
that their mischief becomes apparent. "The nematodes are,
as a rule, much more abundant in warm climates than else-
where, and the unusual abundance of these pests in northern
gardens for the past two years is likely due to the lack of
freezing of the soil. The greenhouse furnishes the proper
g2
78 CULTIVATED ROSES.
conditions for the propagation of the eel worms provided they
are there to begin with. This naturally raises the question
of how they first get into the bed. This may be in one or
more of several ways. They may be already in the roots of
the plants, but in small numbers when the plants are placed
in the house. To guard against this, the roots should be
examined as closely as possible for the galls when the beds
are set. All galled roses should be excluded. The nematodes
may come in with the earth.
As before stated, the worms infest a large number of kinds
of plants, and it is an easy matter for them to come with
the soil. Soil that has not been used for growing plants in
the garden is not necessarily free, but may, if taken from
a pasture or meadow, contain many nematodes. Then, again,
they may be taken with the manure that is used. Just
what may prove to be the best precautions remains for the
practical rose grower to determine. Cold in excess will
probably destroy the worms, and likewise a high temperature
is fatal to them.
It is possible that some substance may be put upon the
soil that, while not injuring the roses, may kill the worms
not already in the plants. Lime has been thus used, and
with favourable results. Sprinkle the lime upon the surface
of the bed, or better, mix it with the soil, and each watering
will tend to bring it in contact with the tender bodies of the
worms. It is not unlikely that some of the fertilizer com-
pounds may be found that, at the same time they furnish food
for the plants, will deal a death-blow to the nematodes.
Kainit may thus prove an efficient remedy, and it only
remains for some enterprising rosarian to take the matter in
hand.
GLOSSAR V. 79
GLOSSARY.
Following are explanations of the principal terms used in
these pages : —
Bud. — When used in connection with the operation of
pruning, this term has a similar meaning to that of " eye,"
which see.
Climbers. — Eoses with long shoots, budded or grafted near
roots — dwarfs ; or on briar stems — standards.
Disbudding^. — This signifies the removal of superfliious
shoots or flower buds. Thus, in May, rosarians often rub
off weakly young shoots of no use for bearing flowers ; and
in June remoYe all small or under-sized flower buds where
fine blooms are required.
Dwarfs. — A term applied to roses budded or grafted close
to the roots of the stock.
Exhibition Roses. — Varieties that bear perfectly formed
flowers and of excellent quality, but not necessarily in quantity.
Some sorts are good alike for garden decoration and exhibition
purposes.
Extra Vigorous. — Very strong growing roses.
Eye. — A term frequently used by rosarians to indicate the
dormant growth buds on the shoots of a rose. This and the
word "bud" are synonymous terms when used in connection
with the operation of pruning.
Free. — A term applied to roses that make a well-pro-
portioned, healthy, and fairly vigorous growth.
Qarden Roses. — Any free-flowering, showy kinds that
will make a good display in beds or borders, and afford
abundance of flowers for cutting for indoor decoration.
Half-Standards. — Eoses similar to standards, but with a
shorter stem.
Medium. — Eoses that make small shoots and do not attain
a large size.
80 CULTIVATED ROSES.
Moderate. — Roses that make growth about midway between
medium and vigorous.
Mulching. — Placing a layer of decayed manure on the
surface of the soil for the double purpose of feeding the roots
and conserving the moisture in the soil, i jMulohing is of special
value on light soils.
Own-Root Roses. — Eoses not propagated by grafting or
budding, but by cuttings or seed.
Pegged Down Roses. — Roses planted in beds and having
not more than four of the previous year's shoots bent down
to within a foot of the earth. Each shoot to be secured by
a stout hooked peg. Peg down the shoots in March, and cut
off tips at same time. During summer allow young shoots
to grow up in centre of plant. In October cut off close to
young shoots, those shoots which have borne flowers.
Pergolas. — Rough stems or branches of trees arranged
so as to form a picturesque archway, over which free-growing
roses may ramble.
Pillar Roses. — Roses with long erect shoots capable of
being loosely trained up a post or pillar. Example : Amadis.
Rambling Roses. — Roses with long flexible shoots, capable
of growing without artificial support over tree-stumps, etc.
Example ; Dundee Rambler.
Robust. — Uinusually strong growiirg roses.
Rooteries. — Roots and stumps of trees arranged in a
picturesque fashion, with climbing roses rambling over them.
Scion. — The shoot or bud to be united by budding or
grafting to the shoot or stem of another plant called the stock.
Standards. — Roses budded on stems of dog rose or briar,
and with a clear stem of three or more feet.
Stock. — A plant to which a shoot or bud is attached by
the process of grafting or budding.
Suckers. — Shoots issuing from the roots of roses. Those
issuing from roots of grafted or budded roses should be
promptly removed; but those proceeding from own-root
roses may remain to bear flowers.
Vigorous. — A term applied to roses that make strong
growth each season.
Weeping Roses. — Roses budded on a tall briar stem, and
having long, drooping shoots. Example : Gracilis.
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Cure de Charentay H. P.
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Duke of Fife H.P.
Dake of Teck H.P.
Duke of Wellington H.P.
Duke of York Ghina
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Dundee Rambler Ayr.
Dupuy Jamain H.P.
Earl of Beaoonsfield H.P.
Earl of Dufferin H.P.
Earl of Pembroke H.P.
Eclaire H.P.
Edith Bellenden Br.ar
Edmund LablayroUes Tea
Edouard Andre H.P.
Edouard Herve H.P.
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Lemon wh.
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Pale rose
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1881
1864
1878
1889
1879
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1870
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Madame Alpli. Lavallue //, /'
,, Alphonsu Scux H.l'.
,, Aniadieu Tea
,, Anatole Leroy H.P.
,, Andr^ Leroy H.P.
,, Angelina Bour.
,, Antoinet. Chretiens'. P.
,, Angele Jacquier Tea
,, Auguste Perrin P. Ifoi.s.
„ Audot Alha
„ Badin Tea
,, Baron 'Voillard Bonr.
„ Barthelemy Levet Tea
„ Baulot H.P.
„ Bellon H.P.
,, BcIIenden Ker Bour.
„ Benoist H.P.
,, Benoit Desroches Tea
,, Benoit Riviere Tea
„ Berard Tea
,, Bernard Tia
„ Bornutz H.P.
„ Bertrand //./'.
,, Bcssonncau Tea
„ Bijou //./'.
,, Boegner H.P.
, Bois H.P.
„ l'.(.ll H.P.
,, Bonnet Eymard Tea
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Bright rose
Amaranth
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Lemon, sal.
Soft ro. wh.
Silvery rose
Bright rose
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White
Satin rose
Wh. ro. lilac
Salmn. pink
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Pale yellow
Redsh. lilac
Rose
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Rosy flesh
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Flesh white
Bright rose
Parp. carm.
Currant red
Deep rose
Salmon rose
Yellow, car.
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1884
1872
1874
1886
1854
1848
1863
1855
1884
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„ Dellevaux H.P.
„ de LasbenSels H.T.
„ Delville H.P.
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* ,, Denis Tea
„ de RochetontaineSo?(r6.
„ Derouet H.P.
„ de St. Joseph Tea
„ Desbordeaux H.P.
„ Devoncout Tea
„ de Selve H.P.
„ de S^vign^ Bourb.
„ D&ir H.P.
„ D&ir^Giraud H.P.
„ Desseilligny Tea
,, des Longchamps Nois.
• ,, de Sertot Tea
,, de Stella Bourb.
,, de Tartas Tea
,, de Terrouenne H.P,
,, de Vatry Tea
„ de Watteville Tea
„ Derepas Matrat Tea
„ Devert H.P.
Striped
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Double
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Good
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Very hardy
Variable
Fragrant
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Silvery rose Vigorous
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Sal. white j Vigorous
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Bright rose Moderate
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1878
1878
1878
1883
1858
1883
1882
1888
1862
1892
1860
1877
1870
1876
idame Etienne Levet H. T.
, Eug^neChambeyran.ff.P
, Eugene Mallet Nois.
, Eugene Resal C%ima
, Eugtoe SebiUe H.P.
, Eugene Verdier
(Guillot) ' H.P.
, Eugene Verdier
(E. Verdier) H.P.
, Eugene Verdier Tea
■ Eugteie BouUet H.T.
, Eugenie Fremy JI.P.
, Faloot Tea
, Fanny de Forest P.N.
, Fanconnier H.P.
, F. Brassao Tea
F. Bruel H.P.
, B'erdinand Jamin H.P.
, Francisque Morel Tea
, Fran9oi3 Janiu H.P.
, Francois Pittet Jfois.
, Frederic Weiss Poly.
, Freeman Tea
, Frenlou Tea
, Furtado Tea
, Furtado H.P.
, Gabriel Luizet H.P.
, Gaillard Tea
, Galli-Marie H.P.
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Pierre Marcadier Tea
Pierre Netting H.P.
Pilar Domedel Tea
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Pink Gloire de Dijon Tea
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SYNONYMS.
157
SYNONYMS.
Ik the preceding list several varieties are prefixed by an
asterisk. This denotes that the particular variety indicated
thus has one or more other names by which it is known. These,
together with additional varieties not so marked in the
schedule, we give in the following list : —
PROPER NAME.
Abel Carrik-e
Adam
Alba Rosea
Alfred Colomb
Avocat Duvivier
Baron de Bonatetten
Belle de Bordeau
Charles Lefebvre
Cloth of Gold
Comtesse de Choiseul
Due de Rohan
Duchesse de Caylus
Duke of Wellington
Dulce Bella
Eugenie Verdier
Fortune's Yellow
Grand Mogul
Jean Ducher
Lady Mary Pitz-William ..
Lelia ...
Marie Baumann
Maurice Bernardin
Mrs. Harkness
Mrs. W. J. Grant ...
Prince Camille de Rohan .
Souvenir de S. A. Prince .
Unique Blanche
Quoted in error.
PrSsident.
{Josephine Malton.
Madame Bravy.
Madame de Serlot.
f Marshall P. Wilder.
\ Wilhelm Koelle.
Marshal Vaillant.
Monsieur Boncemie.
L' Enfant Troum.
I Marguerite Braxsac.
\ Paul Jamain.
Chroniatella.
Marie Rady.
itrs. Jotoett.
Penelope Mayo.
HosiMste Jacobs.
Dr. Grill.
Marie Finger
Beauty of fllaztmrood.
Jean Soupert.
Rvby Gold.
f Lady Alice.
\ Princess A lice,
Louise Pegronny,
Madame LavalUe.
1 Exposition, de Brie.
Ferdinand de Lesseps.
Sir Garnet Wolseley.
Pavl's Early Blush,
Belle iiebreehl.
La Bosie're.
The Queen,
Unique, de Provence,
ADVERTISEMENTS.
l)eu) Roses a Specialitp-
♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦■
. Rose firowers Know .
how greatly new Varieties
vary in Price, and will , ,
recognise how difficult / J^ i
it is to quote in a ^ >■■
standard work.
f
^
Will be pleased to
post a Catalogue, and
give Special Prices for
both old and new varieties
upon application.
ADVERTISEMENTS,
Salisbury Roses.
KEYNES' HEALTHY. STURDY PLANTS.
Being raised in a soil peculiarly adapted to the production
of an abundance of fibrous roots, and not specially fed for
exhibition, these thrive where others fail.
OVER 100,000 GROWN EVERY YEAR.
Roses of all Kinds-OLD and NEW.
Roses-for Cutting.
Roses— for Garden Decoration.
Roses— for Climbing.
Roses— for Beds.
Roses— for Forcing.
Send a Post Card for Illustrated Catalogue.
KEYNES.WILLIAMS&Co.,
The Nurseries, SALISBURY.
Established i6o years.
ADVERTISEMENTS.
ROSES!
ROSES!
ROSES!
THE BEST AND CHEAPEST IN THE WORLD.
12 ACRES OF ROSES.
100,000 Magnificent Plants to Select from.
ROSES A SPECIALITY.
THOUSANDS OF UNSOLICITED TESTIMONIALS.
DESCRIPTIVE CATALOQUE FREE ON APPLICATION.
ADBBESS-
JAME5 WALTERS,
Ro$e Grower and Durserptnati,
Mount Radford Nurseries,
EXETER, DEVON.
ADVERTISEMENTS.
DICKSON'S
WORLD - FAMED
IRISH PEDIGREE SEEDLING ROSES
Have been awarded Twolve GoM Medals by the National
Rose Society,
jllex. Dickson ^ Sons
Are the only Raisers whose introductions have received
SUCH great distinction.
The following superb varieties are now ofTered for the first time :
ULSTER (H.P.), awarded Gold Medal; BESSIE BROWN (H.T.J, awarded
Qold Medal and Silver MedaU ; SHANDON (H.T.) ; and Mrs. EDWARD
MAWLEY (Tea) awarded Gold Medal, N.R.S.
DESCRIPTIONS ON APPLICATION.
DICKSON'S '^^'-'^^^^sl^ .'I'""
Give the utmost satisfaction, owing to their great hardiness, vigour, and
abundance of fibrous roots,
FLOURISHING WHERE OTHERS HAVE FAILED.
These world-famed Roses received the highest award at the World's Fair,
Chicago, 1894, and have been winners of numerous First Prizes, Gold
Medals, and Challenge Cups at the leading shows in the United Kingdom.
The Rose Grounds at the Newtownards Nurseries and Ledbury are
amongst the most extensive in the world, while the collection is the most
complete, consisting of
250»000 Standarast Dwarfs, cnmbers, $c.,
OF THE BEST QUALITY.
Descriptive Catalogue Free on application.
Royal Nurseries, Newtownards, co. Down
AND UPLANDS, LEDBURY, HEREFORDSHIRE.
.ESTABLISHED 1836.
ADVERTISEMENTS.
95 Highest Awards. Gold Medals
from all the principal exhibitions.
ICHTHEMIC 6DAN0
ADJUDGKD by the most eminent growers through-
out the World
THE MOST RELIABLE,
THE RICHEST FOOD, and
THE MOST NATURftL FERTILISER
FOR EVERY FORM OF GROWTH .
Send for Book, " All about Ichthemic'' by the late
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This GUANO, for the convenience of small users,
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56 lbs., 12s. 6d. ; I cwt., 20s., carriage paid.
May be obtained from the principal Nurserymen,
Seedsmen, Florists, and Chemists, or DIRECT OF
WMi COLCHESTER) xiToi^AirD.
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Advertising and Sale.
Publisher's Commission.
Specimens of Wood Engraving,
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W. H. & L. COLUNGRIDGE, City Press, 148 & 149, Aldersgate
Street, London, E.C,
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Price One Shilling. Crown 8vo, Cloth Boards.
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CYCLE i REPAIRING.
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FULLY ILLUSTRATED WITH UPWARDS OF 100 DESCRIPTIVE DESIGNS.
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THE ART OF TICKET WRITING.
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Amongst ike Contents will be found Chapters en
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. .IRONMONGERY, .
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