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Full text of "The Russians in Central Asia : their occupation of the Kirghiz steppe and the line of the Syr-Daria : their political relations with Khiva, Bokhara, and Kokan : also descriptions of Chinese Turkestan and Dzungaria; by Capt. Valikhanof, M. Veniukof and [others]"

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ASIA 


(Jfdcttell  Httiuetatti}  Ilibrarg 

iltltara,  Jfrm  ^ath 

CHARLES  WILLIAM  WASON 

COLLECTION 

CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE 


THE   GIFT  OF 

CHARLES  WILLIAM  WASON 

CLASS  OF   1876 

1918 


The  date  shows  <</ 

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THE    RUSSIANS 

IN    CENTRAL    ASIA: 

THEIR  OCCUPATION  OF 

THE     KIRGHIZ     STEPPE 

AND 

THE    LINE    OF    THE     SYR-DARIA  : 

THEIR  POLITICAL  EBLATI0N8  WITH 

KHIVA,  BOKHARA,  AND  KOKAN : 

ALSO  DESCRIPTIONS  OF 

CHINESE  TURKESTAN  AND  DZUNGARIA. 
BY  CAPT.  VALIKHANOF,  M.  VBNIUKOF, 

AND    OTHER   EUSSIAN   TRAVELLERS. 

ffiranslattU  from  tfje  Eusstan 

BY   JOHN   AND    ROBERT   MICHELL. 


LONDON: 
EDWARD  STANFORD,  6  CHARING  CROSS, 

1865. 


M  %b\% 


PREFACE. 


The  valuable  contributions  to  the  geography  and 
political  history  of  Central  Asia  printed  from  time  to 
time  at  St.  Petersburg  are  almost  entirely  lost  to  this 
country^  owing  to  their  being  published  in  the  Russian 
language.  The  great  interest  which  Central  Asia  has 
lately  attracted,  in  consequence  of  recent  political 
events  in  the  Khanat  of  Kokan,  and  the  comparative 
ignorance  which  has  prevailed  in  England  respecting 
the  true  position  of  Russia  in  those  distant  regions, 
have  induced  us  to  make  a  collection  of  the  most 
important  of  the  Russian  materials  relating  to '  the 
subject,  and  to  present  them  to  the  public  in  an 
English  form.  The  several  chapters  composing  this 
volume,  on  their  original  appearance  at  St.  Petersburg, 
excited  considerable  interest,  and  their  several  authors 
are  well-known  Russian  travellers  and  geographers,  who 
have  made  Central  Asia  their  special  study. 


IV  PREFACE. 

Among  the  accounts  of  journeys  and  travels  in  Cen- 
tral Asia  here  presented  to  the  reader,  those  of  Captain 
Valikhanof  in  Dzungaria  and  Eastern  Turkestan  occupy 
a  prominent  position.  Since  the  days  of  Marco  Polo 
and  the  Jesuit  Goez,  no  European,  with  the  exception  of 
A.  Schlagintweit,  has,  to  our  knowledge,  penetrated  into 
those  countries.  The  fear  and  jealousy  of  Europeans 
and  the  religious  fanaticism  of  the  people  made  that 
country  quite  inaccessible  to  modern  explorers,  and 
the  mournful  fate  of  the  enterprising  traveller  at 
Kashgar  is  an  illustration  of  the  danger  with  which 
any  attempt  to  reach  it  is  beset.  The  travels  of 
Valikhanof  through  Dzungaria  and  Chinese  Turkestan 
were  performed  under  singularly  favourable  circum- 
stances. Although  an  officer  in  the  Russian  service 
and  a  man  of  good  education,  he  is  the  son  of  a 
Kirghiz  Sultari  and  a  native  of  the  Steppes.  He  is 
consequently  well  acquainted  with  the  language  and 
customs  of  the  people  of  Central  Asia,  and  could  go 
amongst  them  without  exciting  the  least  suspicion 
of  being  connected  with  Russia.  He  succeeded  in 
reaching  Kashgar  in  the  train  of  a  Kokan  caravan, 
under  the  assumed  character  of  a  Marghilan  merchant. 
His  description  of  Kashgar,  and  of  the  political  state  of 
Eastern  Turkestan,    will  be    acknowledged  as   an  im- 


PUEl'ACE. 


portant  addition  to  the  scanty  information  we  as  yet 
possess  concerning  that  country. 

The  chapters  descriptive  of  the  political  relations  of 
Russia  with  the  different  Khanats,  and  of  the  manner 
in  which  the  power  of  Russia  has  been  consolidated  in 
the  Kirghiz  Steppe,  and  on  the  line  of  the  Syr-Daria  or 
Jaxartes,  will,  it  is  hoped,  enable  the  English  public  to 
form  a  correct  idea  of  the  present  attitude  of  Russia  in 
Central  Asia;  and  in  presenting  to  our  readers  these 
Russian  narratives  and  descriptions,  we  cannot  omit  to 
point  out  that,  as  the  work  of  geographers  and  men 
of  science,  it  has  been  executed  with  impartiality  and 
without  any  political  object. 

The  recent  capture  of  some  Kokan  towns  and  for- 
tresses, and  the  formation  of  a  new  province  with  the 
title  of  Turkestan,  have  increased  the  apprehensions 
that  have  been  entertained  by  a  portion  of  the  English 
public  of  hostile  intentions  against  British  India.  The 
junction  of  the  line  of  the  Syr-Daria  with  that  of 
Eastern  Siberia  has  certainly  added  a  considerable 
piece  of  territory  to  the  frontier  of  Russia,  on  which  a 
distinct  military  frontier  may  now  be  drawn  from  the 
Gorbitza  mountains  on  the  Amur  River  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Jaxartes  in  the  Sea  of  Aral.  Before  that  junction 
was  effected  by  the  capture  of  Turkestan  and  Chem- 


VI  PREKACE. 

kent,  the  military  colonies  on  the  Syr-Daria  had  no 
communication  with  the  garrison  of  Fort  Vernoe,  the 
southernmost  point  on  the  frontier  of  Eastern  Siberia, 
except  by  the  circuitous  route  of  Orenburg.  The 
obligation  which  Russia  has  incurred  of  protecting  the 
pastoral  Kirghizes  under  her  allegiance  against  the 
marauding  expeditions  of  the  subjects  of  the  Khan  of 
Kokan,  frequently  necessitates  measures  of  retaliation 
and  chastisement.  It  was,  therefore,  not  the  gain  in 
territory,  but  the  necessity  of  establishing  a  continuity 
of  communication,  and  a  consolidation  of  power  with 
a  view  to  tranquil  possession,  that  prompted  the  recent 
encroachments  of  Russia  on  the  dominions  of  the 
Khan. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  Bokhara  and  Khiva,  as  well 
as  Kokan,  are  entirely  at  the  mercy  of  Russia,  and  will 
probably,  in  the  course  of  time,  become  subject  to  it; 
but  a  perusal  of  this  book  will  afford  some  evidence  of 
the  present  uselessness  of  such  conquests  to  an  Empire 
already  too  large  and  unwieldy,  thinly  peopled  at  its 
centre,  and  just  entering  upon  a  long  and  perhaps 
troublesome  process  of  political  reorganisation.  De- 
signs, however,  on  British  India  may  quite  as  well  be 
entertained  with  a  force  on  the  Caspian  as  with  an 
army  at  Bokhara.     The  same  distance  would  have  to 


PREFACE.  VU 

be  passed  by  the  invading  force  before  reaching 
Afghanistan,  and  the  same  dangers  would  have  to  be 
encountered  by  it  from  a  British  army  rapidly  moved 
on  by  railways  and  riversj  and  famished  with  abundant 
supplies. 

On  the  other  hand;  the  security  and  development  of 
the  Russian  trade  with  Central  Asia  must  eventually 
benefit  England.  Bokhara  at  present  supplies  B,ussia 
with  cotton,  dried  fruits^  and  other  goods,  and  imports 
their  value  from  Russia,  half  in  hardware,  wooden 
boxes,  and  coarse  prints,  and  half  in  specie.  That 
specie  is  all  that  the  Central  Asiatics  have  to  offer  in 
return  for  English  manufactured  goods,  which  they 
highly  esteem,  but  which  they  cannot  buy  with  their 
inferior  products.  As  prosperity,  coming  in  the  wake 
of  tranquillity,  becomes  more  general  in  the  plains  of 
Turkestan,  so  will  the  demand  for  English  manufac- 
tures and  the  means  of  purchasing  them,  now  almost 
absent,  become  available.  In  the  meanwhile,  and  apart 
from  all  political  considerations,  the  continued  efiforts 
of  Russian  men  of  science  to  throw  light  on  a  region  of 
the  world  so  little  known  and  so  highly  interesting, 
cannot  but  meet  with  the  sympathy  of  the  English 
public,  and  merit  its  warm  approval. 

The  engravings  which  illustrate  the  book  are  from 


Vlll  PREFACE. 

photographs  taken  on  the  spot  during  General  Ignatief  s 
last  mission  to  Khiva  and  Bokhara,  and  the  accom- 
panying map  has  been  carefully  compiled  from  the 
most  recent  Russian  sources;  while  for  the  introduc- 
tion we  are  indebted  to  the  late  Mr.  Hume  Greenfield, 
formerly  Assistant  Secretary  to  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society,  whose  valuable  assistance  in  editing  the  work 
and  conducting  it  through  the  press  we  cannot  suffi- 
ciently acknowledge. 

J.  AND  R.  MiCHELL. 


iQth  March,  1865. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTEE  I. 

Introduction.       , 

PAGE. 

Persian  and  Russian  acquisitions — Russian  Invasion — TheUst- 
Urt — Khanat  of  Khiva— Khanat  of  Bokhara — Khanat  of 
Kokan — Chinese  Turkestan.  1  —22 


CHAPTER  IT. 

Abridged  Nwrrative.  of  a  Juv/rney  to  KMva,  with  Historical 
Particulars  relating  to  the  Khanat  during  the  Government 
of  Seid-Mohammed  Khan,  1856 — 1860,  ly  K.  Kiihlewein. 

Passage  of  A.ibugir  Lake — Entry  into  Kungrad — Devastations 
by  the  Turkmen — Tedious  Passage  by  Water  to  Khiva — 
Unsettled  state  of  the  Country — Recent  History  of  Khiva 
— High  Officers  of  the  Khan  of  Khiva — Tribes  inhabit- 
ing the  Khanat  of  Khiva  —  Turkmen  Insurrections — 
Metallic  Currency  of  Khiva  —  Astronomical  position  of 
Khiva.  .         .  .         .  .         .        23—45 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTEE  III. 


General  View  of  Bzungaria,  ly  Captain  Valikhanof. 

PAGE. 

I'orlorn  condition  of  Central  Asia — Brutal  Amusements  of  the 
llulers— Sufferings,  &o.,  of  European  Travellers — Oppres- 
sions of  the  Chinese — Explorations  of  M.  Semenof — Fauna 
and  Elora  of  Dzuugaria — Ornithology  of  Dzungaria — Extir- 
pation of  a  whole  race  of  Deer — Propagation  and  Suppres- 
sion of  Christianity — Ethnology  of  Central  Asiatic  B^ces — 
UigurLanguage  unknown  in  Europe^Documentary  History 
ofKashgar.  .         .         4(3—70 

CHAPTEE  IV. 

Travels  in  Dzungaria,  hy  Captain  ValikJianof. 

Visit  from  the  Sultan — Passage  of  the  River  Hi — Costume 
(if  a  Kirghiz  Spearman — Interior  of  a  Kirghiz  Dwelling — 
Filthy  Habits  of  tlie  Kirghizes — A  Eeast — Habits  and 
Customs  of  the  Kirghizes — Primitive  relations  between  the 
Sexes — Predatory  Habits  of  Bursuk — Speculations  as  to 
the  Origin  of  the  Kirghizes —Traditions  among  the  Kirg- 
hizes— Original  Country  of  the  Kirghizes — Importance  of 
an  Ethnographic  Inquiry — Evidence  of  Genealogical  Tra- 
ditions— Heroic  Traditions  of  the  Kirghizes — Epic  Poems 
current  among  the  Kirghizes — Distribution  of  the  Dikoka- 
menni  —  Serious  misunderstanding  —  Affray  —  Encounter 
with  the  Buruts.  ....         71—108 

CHAPTEE  V. 

On  the  Condition  of  Alty-shahr,  or  the  Six  Eastern  Towns 
of  the  Chinese  Province  of  Nan-lu  {Little  Hohhard)  in 
1858—1859. 

Physical  features  of  the  Desert  of  Gobi  —  Table  Land  of 
Syrt  —  Caravan  Eoads  of  Eastern  Turkestan  —  Eiver 
System  of  Eastern  Turkestan — Arrangements  for  accom- 
modating Carav;ms — Route  from  Pckin  to  Aksu — Various 
Ccua\an Routes  to  Yarkcud  — Thcrmomcti ica  Observations 


CONTENTS.  XI 

PAGE. 

in  Kasligar— Singular  dread  of  Thunder  Storms— Geniality 
luid  Salubrity  of  Khotan — Gold-washing  at  Kai^a — Mineral 
Wealth  and  Gold  Mines  of  Kokan — Vegetation  on  the  Tian- 
Shan  Range — ^Vegetation  of  Little  Bokhara — Decline  of 
Agriculture  in  Little  Bokhara — Animals  indigenous  to 
Little  Bokhara — Grain  found  in  Kokan  and  Turkestan — 
Domestic  Animals  of  Little  Bokhara— Exterior  Aspect  of 
a  Little  Bokharian  Town — Description  of  the  City  of 
Kashgar  —  Municipal  Buildings  of  Kashgar  —  Tombs  of 
Mussulman  Saints  near  Kashgar — Description  of  Yany- 
shahr  and  Yarkend  —  Settlements  in  the  Province  of 
Yarkend — Statistics  of  Khotan  District  and  Trade — Ush- 
Turfan  District  described.  .         .         .  109—161 


CHAPTEE  VL 

Alty-shahr — Historical  Heview. 

Eariy  Introduction  of  Buddhism  —  Islamism  introduced  in 
Eastern  Turkestan — Rise  of  the  Power  of  the  Hodjas — 
Party  Politics  in  Turkestan — Wars  of  the  Rival  Pactions 
— History  of  the  Movement  for  Independence — Outbreak 
of  the  Revolution  —  Subjugation  of  Dzungaria  by  the 
Chinese — Preparation  for  Battle  by  both  Sides — Defeat,  by 
Treachery,  of  the  Allied  Porces — PataUy  facile  temper  of 
Hodja-Djagan — Plight  of  Djagan-Hodja — Chinese  Policy 
of  Colonisation — Apprehensions  excited  by  the  Chinese — 
Confederacy  against  Chinese  Extension — Appearance  of 
Russia  iu  Central  Asia  —Merciless  Severities  of  the  Chinese 
— Ineffectual  Risings  of  the  Native  Pactions — Insurrection 
of  Djengir-Hodja  in  1S22 — Important  Successes  of  Djengir- 
Hodja^ — Entry  of  Djengir  into  Kashgar  —  Conciliatory 
Policy  of  the  Hodja — Capture  and  Execution  of  Djengir 
— Prohibition  by  the  Chinese  of  Trade  with  Kokan — 
Rebellion  of  Madali-Khan— Withdrawal  from  Kashgar  of 
Med-Yusuf— Treaty  between  China  and  Kokan— Recent 
Disturbances  in  Kokan — Excesses  of  the  Seven  Hodjas — 
Sufferings  of  the  Inhabitants  of  Kashgar — Vali-Khan-lMiria 
surprises  Kashgar — Rapid  Spread  of  the  Insurrection — 


Xn  CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

Ferocious  Cruelty  of  Vali-Klian-Tiiria — Fiendish  Murders 
committed  by  tlie  Hodja — Jealousy  of  the  Official  Ap- 
pointments —  Universal  Feelings  of  Discontent  arise — 
Scenes  of  Bloodshed  re-enaoted  in  Kashgar — Advances 
from  the  Kokanians  to  the  Chinese.  .        162 — 238 


CHAPTEE  VII. 

Trans-lli  and  Ghu  Districts,  hy  M.  Yeniukof.     Alniaty,  or 
Vernoe. 

Favourable  Agricultural  Conditions  of  Vernoe — Interview  with 
Sultan  All — Instances  of  AU's  Astuteness — Progress  of 
Civilization  among  the  Kirghiz  —  Distribution  of  the 
Great  Horde — Zoology  of  the  Steppe^Wild  Sports  of 
the  Kirghiz — Effects  of  the  Bite  of  the  Phalangium — 
Passage  of  the  Alatau  Chain — Fate  of  a  Robber  of  the 
Steppe — Marvellous  Recovery  from  severe  Wounds — In- 
tense Dryness  of  the  Air  in  the  Steppe — Animal  Life  in  the 
Valley  of  the  Chu — The  Barren  Desert  of  Betpak-dala — 
Lakes  Karakul  and  the  Boroldai  Chain — Account  of  the 
Dikokamenni  Horde — Kirghiz  Legends  of  their  Origin  as 
a  Nation — Ancestry  of  the  Kara-Kirghiz  Horde — Distribu- 
tion of  the  Dikokamenni  Kirghiz — Origin  of  the  Name 
Kara-Kirghiz — Agriculture  and  the  Chase — State  of  Trade 
— Organised  Marauding  of  the  Dikokamenni — Gross  Igno- 
rance of  the  Hordes — Veneration  for  the  Departed — Imagi- 
native Strain  of  their  Improvisatori.  239 — 291 


CHAPTEE  VIII. 

History  of  the  Establishment  or  Russian  Rule  on  the  Sea 
OF  Akal  and  on  the  River  Syk-Dama  (Jaxaktes)  ekom 
1847  TO  1862, 

PART  I. 

General  Eevieiv  of  the  Orenburg  Region  and  its  Future 
Importance — First  Appehrance  of  the  Russians  in  these 


CONTENTS.  Xiii 

PAGE. 

Parts — The  Sea  of  Aral  and  the  Syr-Baria — Estahlish- 
ment  of  Russian  Rule  in  the  Steppe  since  ISSS—Urection 
of  Forts  in  the  Steppe  and  on  the  Shores  of  the  Sea  of 
Aral — The  Aral  Flotilla. 

1S47_1,S52, 

Territory  under  consideration — Eise  of  the  Omsk  Department 
— reatures  of  the  Sea  of  Aral— Physical  features  of  tlie 
Syr-Daria — Branches  of  the  %r-Daria— Vegetation  along 
the  Banks  of  the  Syr— Aspect  of  the  Barren  Steppes- 
Scarcity  of  Sweet  Water — Commencement  of  Russian  In- 
fluence— Intrigues  of  the  Kokanians  —Oppressive  rule  of 
the  Kokanians — Fortifications  along  the  Syr — Krst  Russian 
Fort  projected  ■ —  Hostilities  with  the  Russians  —  First 
Flotilla  on  the  Sea  of  Aral  —  Organisation  of  a  Steam 
FlotUla— Armament  of  the  Flotilla.  .        .        292—329 


CHAPTER  IX. 

PART  II. 

Survey  of  the  Syr-Daria  above  the  Aral  Fortification — 
Inimical  hearing  of  the  Kokanians — Fxpeditian  of  Colonel 
Blaramherg —  demolition  of  the  Kohanian  Fortifications 
— Expedition  to  Ak-Mechet — Taking  of  Ak-Mechet — It 
is  re-named  Fort  Perovski — Proceedings  of  the  Kokanians. 

1852- 185J. 

Armed  Survey  of  the  Syr  in  1852 — Advance  of  the  Expedition 
— Assault  and  Capture  of  the  Suburbs — First  Results  of 
the  Expedition — Composition  of  Second  Expedition — De- 
parture from  Fort  Aralsk — Danger  from  Fire  in.  the  Steppe 
— Additional  Fortifications  at  Ak-Mechet — Commencement 
of  Active  Hostilities — Diplomatic  Preliminaries  of  the 
Siege — Incidents  of  the  Siege — Prosecution  of  the  Siege — 
The  Sap  finished  and  the  Mine  sprung — Results  of  the 


XIV  CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

Capture  of  Ak-Mecliet — Engagement  with  a  Kokanian  ]?e- 
inforcement  —  Rumours  of  an  Attack  in  Force  —  Fort 
Perovski  besieged  by  13,000  Kokanians — Kokanian  Plans 
of  Campaign.  .  330 — 3G6 


CHAPTEH  X. 

PART  III. 

Events  in  the  Steppe  during  the  Crimean  Wai — Iset-Kute- 
har,  the  Knight  of  the  Steppe — Attempt  of  Ferovski  to 
occupy  IIodja-Nias — Occupation  of  Djulek,  and  Dentruc- 
tion  of  Yany- Kurgan. 

1854—1802. 

Intrigues  on  1lie  Steppe — A  Kirgliiz  Rob  Roy — Career  of  Iset- 
Kutebar — Treachery  of  Tset-Kntebar — Engagement  witli 
Iset-Kutebar — The  Cossacks  defeated  by  Iset-Kutebar — 
Renewed  Pursuit  of  Iset-Kutebar — Death  of  Perovski — A 
Garrison  stationed  at  Fort  Hodja-Nias  —  The  Russian 
Claim  to  Fort  Hodja-Nias — Reprisals  of  the  Kokanians — 
Insecurity  of  Commercial  Relations  —  DiiEoulties  of  the 
Commissariat- — Difficulties  of  Intercommunication — Rus- 
sian mode  of  Extending  Territory — Importance  of  the  Tele- 
graphic Question — Involuntary  Annexation  by  Russia — 
Communicatiou  between  Russia  and  India — Where  England 
and  Russia  are  to  be  conterminous.  .         .        367 — 400 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Diplomatic  Relations  between  Eussia  and  Bokhara. 
By  Zalesqf. 

1836—1843. 

Relations  of  Russia  with  Bokhara— List  of  Grievances  against 
Khiva— Bokharian  Embassy  of  1836— Russian  Mission  to 
j3okhara — Avaricious  Aims  of  Bokharian  Embassies- In- 


CONTENTS.  XV 

PAGE. 

structions  to  the  Mining  Expedition — British  Political 
Complications  in  1840 — Rumours  of  a  Russian  Alliance 
with  Cabul— Deatli  of  Mukin-Beg — Diplomatic  and  other 
Instructions  of  M.  Butenef — Proposed  Terms  of  Treaty — 
Re-inme  oi  tlie  Envoy's  Instructions — Attempt  to  Ijiberatc 
Colonel  Stoddart — Departure  of  the  Mission — State  of 
Bokhara  in  1840— Anival  of  the  Mission  at  Bokhara — 
Opening  of  the  Negotiations— Interview  of  the  Envoy 
with  Colonel  Stoddart — Outbreak  of  the  Afghan  War — 
Rupture  of  the  Negotiations — The  Emir's  Reply  to  the 
Ultimatum  —  Scientific  Results  of  the  Expedition  — 
Effrontery  of  the  Bokharians — Cessation  of  Diplomatic 
Intercourse  .        .        .        407 — 455 


CHAPTER  XII. 

On   the  Commercial  Prospects   of  Centrnl  Asia,  viewed  in 
connexion  with  Sussia. 

State  of  Trade  in  Central  Asia — Statistics  of  Exports  and  Im- 
ports— Alteration  of  Imports  in  twenty-five  years — Import 
of  Specie  into  Central  Asia — Development  of  Trade  witli 
the  Kirghizes — -Provisions  of  Russo-Chinese  Treaty — 
Prospects  of  Russian  Trade  in  Central  Asia  —  Cotton 
Eabrics  suitable  for  Trade — Prospects  of  Cotton  Growing 
in  Bokhara — ^More  care  required  in  Growing  Cotton — 
Difficulties  for  want  of  Transport — Necessity  for  erecting 
New  Ports — Strategical  Policy  of  Russia — Obstacles  in  the 
way  of  rearing  Cattle — Good  Policy  of  encouraging  Agri- 
culture— Prevalence  of  Slavery  in  Khiva — Routes  across 
Independent  Tartary — Trade  with  Petropavlovsk — ^Future 
Route  for  Transport  of  Goods  —  Various  Commercial 
Routes  proposed — Requisites  for  protecting  Trade.     456 — 497 


CONTENTS. 


APPENDICES. 


APPENDIX  I. 

PAGE. 

Itinerary  of  Routes  in  the  Trans-Hi  and  Cliu  Regions.        501 — 517 

APPENDIX  II. 

Astronomical  Determinations  in  Eastern  Turkestan  and  Dzun- 

garia.  .  518—523 

APPENDIX  III. 

March-Route  from  Turfan  to  Kashgar  in  Little  Bokhara.     524 — 535 

APPENDIX  IV. 

Notes   on  the   Intercourse    of    Russia  with   Khiva.    By   G. 

Kiihlewein.  536 — 552 


LIST  OF  PLATES,  ETC. 

1.  A  Bashkir  Cjravanserai  at  Orenburg.         .         .     Frontispiece. 

2.  Part  of  the  City  of  Kungrad,  seen  from  the  River  Amu-Daria 

(Oxus)  .  .  .26 

3.  Mid-day  Halt  on  a  Kirghiz  Steppe.  .  238 

4.  Russian  Steam  Barges  opposite  Kungrad,  on  the  Amu- 

Daria.  327 

MAP   OF   CENTRAL   ASIA. 


SKETCHES    OF    TEASEL 


IN   VAEIOUS    REGIONS    OE 


CENTRAL    ASIA. 


CHAPTER   1. 


INTRODUCTION. 


Much  of  the  uncertainty  attaching  to  the  immense 
region  hitherto  known  to  EngHsh  readers  under 
the  general  name  of  Tartary,  is  undoubtedly  due 
to  the  perversity  with  which  each  fresh  traveller 
adopts  a  new  spelling  for  himself,  upon  some 
recondite  principle  of  phonography.  Every  such 
attempt,  moreover,  is  sure  to  provoke  hostile  criti- 
cism, and,  in  so  doing,  to  elicit  new  views  of 
philology,  which  tend  still  further  to  perplex  the 
student.  Another  element  of  difficulty,  which 
seems  to  have  been  pretty  much  overlooked,  is  that 
the  lune-shaped  tract — extending  over  52°  of  longi- 

]? 


2  Jiifrodiiclioii . 

tude,  i.  e.  from  Orenburg  in  lat.  5 1  48  N.  55°  1 2'  E. 
to  Kiakhta,  on  the  meridian  of  107'  E.,  and 
in  about  the  same  latitude,  the  main  width  of 
which,  however,  owing  to  the  physical  configura- 
tion of  the  spurs  of  the  Altai,  lies  between  the 
much  lower  parallels  of  4G'  and  40°, — forms  a 
sort  of  debatealjle  land  for  at  least  four,  if  not 
five,  distinct  languages — namely,  the  Persian,  the 
Bokharian,the  Thibetan, and  the  Mongolian,  besides 
the  recently  intruded  Russian.  With  respect  to 
at  least  two  of  these,  the  first  and  last-named,  the 
contempt  generated  by  a  higher  civilization 
naturally  induces  n  system  of  nomenclature 
founded  upon  the  language  of  the  more  civilized 
community,  and,  in  consequence,  differing  widely 
from  the  indigenous  appellations  by  which  the 
more  prominent  places  are  known  to  the  natives. 
In  consulting,  therefore,  the  accompanying  transla- 
tions from  the  Russian  of  the  works  of  ^^alikhanof, 
Veninkof,  and  others,  it  is  necessary  to  bear  in 
mind  that  it  is  quite  possible  any  given  spot  has 
been  already  visited  and  described  by  Europeans, 
who  have  contented  themselves  with  the  names 
bestowed  l)y  their  native  guides.  A  noted  instance 
of  this  is  the  \wv\  ersity  with  which  Russian  hydro- 
graphers  and  Russian  travellers,  Avhen  speaking  of 


Periicni  ami  Russian  AcqitisUions.  3 

the  region  watered  by  the  river  Syr-Daria,  persis- 
tently speak  of  Fort  Perovski,  a  stronghold  on  the 
caravan  route  from  Bokhara  to  Petropavlovsk  (in 
Siberia,  195  m.  W.  of  Omsk),  quite  recently  con- 
structed to  check  the  audacity  of  the  Kirghiz  Cos- 
sacks, ignoring  that  since  the  close  of  last  century 
an  important  native  town  has  existed  on  the 
opposite  bank,  which  will  be  found  in  all  the  best 
maps  under  the  name  Ak-Mesjid.  There  is  perhaps 
a  political  reason  for  these  attempts  to  extinguish  the 
native  names,  since  it  is  notorious  that  both  Per- 
sia and  Russia  have  long  been  endeavouring  to  feel 
their  Avay  eastward  and  southward.  The  exhiius- 
tive  system  of  agriculture  which  travellers  have 
described  as  characterizing  Persia,  and  which,  witli 
advantages  hardly  equalled,  certainly  not  surpassed, 
by  any  Oriental  country,  still  keeps  her  impoverished 
and  consequently  warlike  along  her  frontier  line,  will 
readily  account  for  the  attempts  of  that  power  to 
subjugate  the  mountainous  region,  interspersed  with 
fertile  valleys,  which  forms  her  Eastern  boundary. 
Hence  the  permanent  feeling  of  irritation  which 
prevails  among  the  Hill-tribes  all  along  the  N.AY. 
frontier  of  our  Indian  Empire,  and  the  constant  re- 
currence, every  few  years,  of  some  miserable 
squabble  about  Herat,  which,  although  distant  500 


4  liilrodtii-lioii. 

miles  of  the  wildest  mountain  desert  from  Attock, 
it  is  still  the  fashion  to  call  "  the  key  of  India  "  in 
these  days,  when  Bombay  is  only  twenty  days 
distant  from  London,  and  when  Bombay  and  Cal- 
cutta are  themselves  on  the  eve  of  being  brought 
withhi  three  days  of  each  other  by  the  development 
of  om'  Indian  railways. 

A  cursory  glance  at  the  map  might,  at  first 
sight,  seem  to  give  some  ground  for  alarm,  when 
we  find  that  Russia  has  virtually  pushed  forward 
her  outposts  to  within  300  miles  of  the  British 
frontier  on  the  north.  But  the  barrier  here  is  even 
more  impassaljle  than  that  to  the  westward,  since 
there  intervenes  between  the  Muscovite  and  the 
supposed  secret  object  of  all  his  movements  and  in- 
trigues in  those  regions,  the  mighty  barrier  of  the 
Hindoo  Koosh,  and  the  Kuen  Lun,  which  rise 
like  a  wall,  17,000  feet  high,  with  scarcely  a  crest 
or  depression  throughout  their  entire  extent — none 
certainly  practicable  for  an  army  with  the  materiel 
and  appliances  of  war  as  waged  by  19th  cen- 
tury civilization.  The  truth  is  that,  in  the  in- 
terests of  science  and  humanity.  Great  Britain 
ought  to  rejoice  that  any  form  of  European  civilization 
is  penetrating  the  howling  wilderness  that  lies  to 
the  North  of  the   Himalaya.     Secure  behind  that 


Impombility  of  a  Riiman  Invasion.  5 

impassable  bulwark,  still  more  secure  in  the  gra- 
dual elevation  in  the  scale  of  nations  of  the  vast 
population  which  destiny  has  committed  to  her 
charge,  she  ought  to  view  with  feelings  of  sym- 
pathy and  interest  any  policy  that  will  replace  the 
barbarities  of  such  men  as  Hodja  Khan,  and  the 
other  rnifians  that  infest  the  territory  conterminous 
with  our  own  to  the  N.N.W. 

The  phantom,  however,  of  a  Russian  invasion  of 
India  has  so  completely  possessed  certain  classes 
of  quid  nuncs,  that  it  is  possible  a  succinct  sketch 
of  the  physical  peculiarities  of  the  country  may  not 
be  out  of  place,  and  such  a  synopsis  would  at  all 
events  be  required  to  enable  the  reader  to  compre- 
hend the  following  pages.  Our  ignorance  of  the 
region  in  question  has  long  been  made  a  matter  of 
reproach  to  us,  and  our  knowledge,  "  chiefly  con- 
jectural," has  been  stigmatized  as  a  disgrace  to 
science,  "  owing  to  its  wretched  state  of  imperfec- 
tion." It  would  perhaps  puzzle  those  who  thus 
readily  impeach  the  energy  which  has  already 
sacrificed  so  many  valuable  lives  in  this  very 
country,  if  we  were  to  ask  them  to  devise  means 
for  throwing  open  to  Anglo-Saxon  enterprise  a  coun- 
try where  emphatically  every  man  carries  his  life  in 
his  hand.      Something  more  is  required  to  pj-ove  con- 


n  Iiiirodiiclioji. 

rage  ov  conduct  than  to  exclaim,  "  Fool !"  or 
"  Coward !"  as  each  succeeding  traveller  recoils 
before  the  hardships  and  dangers  of  a  journey 
through  Little  Bokhara.  Round  that  land  of  ro- 
mance, the  genius  of  the  West  has  flung  a  mantle  of 
refinement,  till  a  sort  of  notion  has  got  abroad  that 
the  virtues  of  savage  life,  banished  from  North 
America,  still  survive  among  the  hordes  of  the 
Kirghiz  Kaisaks,  the  Kara  Kalpaks,  the  Dzun- 
garians,  and  the  Kashgarians.  Every  Khan  is  a 
Feramorz  or  Alaris,  and  among  the  perennial  snows 
of  the  Pamir,  or  the  great  table-land  in  \Ahich  the 
[ndus  takes  its  rise,  the  imagination  delights  to 
picture  a  state  of  primeval  innocence  and  Arcadian 
simplicity,  instead  of  one  of  constant  Avar,  disgraced 
by  more  than  the  atrocities  that  ordinarily  accom- 
pany Oriental  warfai'e. 

Anything  like  a  physico-geographical  and  ethno- 
graphical sketch  of  Central  Asia  must  necessarily 
lie  a  compilation  of  e\er}'  authority  from  tlie  days 
of  R^ubruquis  odd,  and  Jenkinson  300  years  ago, 
to  the  more  modern  researches  of  Lesvchine, 
Abbott,  A\'ood,  Burnes,  ConoUy,  Nikoforof,  Mou- 
ravief,  etc.  These  have  been  in  many  instances 
corrected  by  the  researches  since  made  under  the 
aiis|)ices    of   the    Russian    Geographical    Socictv, 


Phi/.sira/  8/r-i'fch  af  l/ii'  Uxl-Urt.  7 

including  the  experiences  of  the  distinguished 
authorities  whose  sketches  of  travel  now  make  their 
appearance  for  the  first  time  in  an  English  transla- 
tion. Enough,  however,  remains  to  enable  us  to 
supply  a  general  idea  of  the  entire  region,  distinguish- 
ing the  various  Khanats,  and  tracing  their  general 
history  tiU  within  what  may  be  called  the  historic 
period,  which  may  be  stated  as  commencing  only 
within  the  last  ten  .years ;  in  fact,  since  the  Russian 
Government  has  begun  to  enforce  some  sort  of  order, 
partly  by  the  establishment  of  armed  stations  and 
forts,  partly  by  offering  to  the  towns  which  used  to 
be  great  entrepots  of  trade  an  outlet  for  their  pro- 
ducts through  Western  Siberia  andRussia  in  Europe. 

Western  or  Independent  Tartary,  as  it  was 
called  in  the  text-books  of  geography  of  the  last 
generation,  comprises  the  following  main  divisions, 
which,  for  convenience  sake,  we  shall  enumerate 
seriatim,  beginning  with  the  river  Emba,  which, 
after  a  Westerly  course  of  800  miles  falls  into  the 
Caspian  in  47°  N.  53°  15' E.: 

I.  The  country  South  of  the  river  Emba,  Yemba 
or  Jem,  consists  of  a  table-land  which  separates  the 
Caspian  and  Aral,  and  rises  to  an  average  elevation 
of  620  feet  according  to  a  profile  sketch  which 
first  appeared  in  Lesvchine's  work  on  the  Kirghiz 


^  I)dr()(h(ctioii. 

Kaisaks,  and  which  we  reproduce  in  the  Appendix. 
This  table-land,  known  as  the  Ust-Urt,  is  about  240 
miles  in  lengtli,  and  extends  the  whole  width, 
160  miles,  between  the  two  seas.  The  entire 
East  side  of  the  plateau  forms  a  bold  coast  line 
along  the  Western  shores  of  the  Sea  of  Aral,  and  at  its 
S.E.  comer  it  turns  aljruptly  to  the  W.N.W.,  the 
angle  thus  formed  at  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  Sea 
of  Aral  being  known  as  "the  Tchink."  The  Ust-Urt 
is,  in  fact,  the  S.W.  con  tin  nation  and  extremity  of  the 
great  Steppe  of  the  Kirghiz  Kaisaks,  this  portion 
forming  part  of  the  territory  of  the  Lesser  Horde. 
II.  South  of  the  Ust-Urt,  and  of  the  Sea  of 
Aral,  is  the  Khanat  of  Khiva,  including  the  desert 
plain  of  Kharesm,  and  the  oasis  of  the  same  name, 
as  also  the  rich,  well-watered  plain  of  ]\Ierv,  37° 
28  N.,  62°  10'  E.  This  region,  also  known  in 
older  geographies  as  Turan,  is  bounded,  according 
to  Captain  Abbott,  on  the  S.  by  an  irregular  cui'v- 
ing  line,  extending  from  the  river  Attreck,  which 
debouches  into  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  Caspian,  in 
37°  N.,  54°  E.  nearly  to  Herat,  where  it  turns  N., 
and  becomes  the  Eastern  boundary  of  the  Khanat. 
The  Eastern  boTUidary  follows  an  imaginary  line 
corresponding  pretty  closely  with  the  63°  meridian, 
crossing  the  Onus,  or  Anui-Daria,  about  90  miles  W 


Jrca  and  Features  of  Ike  K/ianat  of  K/rifa.       9 

of  Bokhara,  and  is  thence  prolonged  northward  till 
it  intercepts  the  Syr-Daria,  or  Jaxartes,  about  120 
miles  from  its  month.  The  area  compi'ised  within 
these  boundaries  is  in  round  numbers  450,000 
square  miles,  the  surface  of  which  is  singularly 
uniform.  With  the  exception  of  the  banks  of  the 
Oxus,  and  the  oasis  of  Merv,  the  entire  country 
presents  an  unbroken  waste,  unrelieved  by  moun- 
tains, rivers,  lakes,  or  forests.  The  Ust-Urt, 
last  mentioned,  is  nominally  part  of  the  Khanate  of 
Khiva,  but  the  extreme  cold  of  winter,  and  the 
intense  heat  of  summer,  make  it  almost  uninhabit- 
able. The  geological  formation  of  this  Khanat  is 
principally  red  sand-stone  on  the  S.,  gradually 
changing  into  a  firm  cliay  resting  upon  lime-stone. 
The  volume  of  the  various  rivers  of  course  depends 
upon  the  season,  the  melting  of  the  snows  of  the 
Hindoo  Koosh,  in  which  the  Oxus  rises,  causing 
that  river  to  overflow  its  banks  in  many  places 
during  the  autumn.  In  some  of  the  older  maps,  a 
dried  river  course  is  represented  as  occasionally 
filled  from  the  Oxus,  and  finding  its  way  across 
the  desert  of  the  Kharesm,  till  it  reaches  the  Caspian 
at  Balkan  Bay,  39°  40'  N.  There  is  nothing  in- 
trinsically improbable  in  this  diversion,  as  the  Sea 
of  Aral  itself  is  known  to  be  117  feet  above  the 


10  Iidrodiiction. 

level  of  the  Caspian.  The  dominant  race  are  Usbec 
Tartars,  to  which  tribe  the  latest  dynasty  of  Khans 
belongs,  and  the  population  is  variously  estimated, 
by  Balbi,  at  800,000,  by  Fraser,  at  1,500,000, 
and  by  Abbott,  at  2,600,000.  Khiva,  the  capital, 
which,  as  will  be  seen,  was  visited  by  Kiihlewein, 
is  situated  on  a  fertile  plain  near  the  Oxus,  in 
41°  22'  40"  N.,  by  60°  ■£  57'  E.,  and  is  about  half 
a  mile  square,  containing  about  1500  houses,  clay 
built,  and  arranged  in  narrow  streets,  with  a  popu- 
lation of  about  12,000  permanent  inhabitants. 

III.  Immediately  to  the  eastward  of  the 
Ivhanat  of  Khiva  is  that  of  Bokhara,  which  has 
acquired  a  melancholy  interest  for  England  by  the 
fate,  long  wrapped  in  mystery,  of  Colonel  Stoddart 
and  Captain  Conolly,  and  the  heroic  enterprise  of 
the  late  Dr.  Wolff,  who  penetrated  as  far  as  Samar- 
cand,  only  to  find  confirmation  of  the  bloody  fate 
which  rumour  had  already  hinted  as  having  over- 
taken our  adventurous  countrymen.  The  limits  of 
the  Khanat  of  Bokhara  are  even  more  difficult  to 
define  than  those  of  Khiva,  owing  to  the  incessant 
political  fluctuations  of  this  unhappy  country.  It 
should  seem  that  when  Burnes  first  visited  the 
country,  the  Khan  claimed  the  entire  territory  from 
the  Hindoo-Koosh,  including  Balkh   (the  ancient 


Physical  Features  of  the  Khan  a  I  of  Bokhara.    1 1 

Bactria)  and  Andku,  or  Ankoi,  where  Moorcroft 
died,  to  the  basin  of  the  Syr-Daria,  or  from  35°  N. 
to  45°  30'  N.,  while  the  Eastern  boundary,  in  the  ab- 
sence of  precise  geographical  data,  has  been  variously 
stated  at  68°  to  70°  E.  The  Eastern  frontier  is,  in 
fact,  conterminous  with  the  Khanat  of  Kokan, 
and  the  Western  boundary  of  what  is  variously 
known  as  Chinese  Turkestan,  or  Little  Bokhara, 
(the  scene  of  Lalla  Rookh),  of  which  the  capitals 
are  Yarkend  and  Kashgar.  But  since  1849,  the 
advance  of  Russia  along  the  valley  of  the  Syr-Daria 
and  the  incursions  of  the  Kirghiz  of  the  Middle 
Horde  on  the  one  hand,  and  of  the  Kokanians  on 
the  other,  have  made  the  basin  of  the  Syr-Daria 
anything  but  a  desirable  acquisition,  and  it  is 
understood  that  the  reigning  Khan  of  Bokhara 
does  not  assert  his  sovereignty  beyond  the  parallel 
of  41°  N.,  so  that  we  may  estimate  the  present 
extent  of  the  Khanat  at  about  230,000  square 
miles,  with  a  population  estimated  by  Irving 
(1809),  at  3,600,000,  by  Burnes  at  1,000,000,  by 
Eraser  at  3,500,000,  and  by  Balbi  (1826),  at 
1,200,000.  Eraser,  however,  speaks  of  the  city  of 
Bokhara  as  containing  120,000  houses  alone,  and 
doubts  if  .any  other  Eastern  city,  except  some  of 
the  Chinese  capitals,  contains  so  large  a  population  ; 


1 2  I/itrodi/cfion. 

and  as  the  soil  is  argillaceous  in  the  plains,  and  the 
valleys  have  long  enjoyed  in  the  East  a  reputation 
somewhat  resembling  that  of  Tempe  in  Thessaly, 
it  seems  probable  that  the  larger  estimates  are  the 
more  likely  to  be  correct.  The  territory  is  inter- 
sected from  S.E.  to  N.W  by  the  Oxus,  or  Amu- 
Daria,  the  only  other  river  of  importance  being  its 
tributary,  the  Kholik,  or  Sogd,  whence  the  ancient 
name  Sogdiana,  given  to  the  district  of  which  Sa- 
marcand  is  the  present  capital. 

The  eastern  portion  of  this  Khanat  is  entirely 
occupied  by  mountains.  Of  these  the  chief  are 
the  Kish  range,  between  Kish,  39°  N.  67°  E.,  and 
Samarcand,  a  spur  of  the  little-known  Kara-Dagh 
chain.  In  this  exceedingly  rugged,  precipitous 
system  of  mountains  occurs  the  celebrated  Derbend 
or  Koluga  Pass,  ("the  Iron  Gate  "),  leading  from 
Kish,  S.E.,  and  forming  the  sole  means  of  com- 
munication with  Hissar  and  thence  to  AfFghaiiistan. 
A  still  loftier  range  commences  to  the  N.E.  of 
Bokhara,  and  runs  eastward  to  the  borders  of  the 
Khanat  of  Kokan,  where  it  converges  at  right  angles 
to  the  Bolor  or  Belur  Tagh.  This  is  called  the  Ak- 
Dagh,  or  "White  Mountains,  "  and  seems  to  mark 
the  Northern  boundary  of  the  celebrated  high-lving 
table-laud  of  Pamii',  on  the  ^Vest  side  of  which  the 


Sourrt'x  of  the  0,rii.s  or  Aiiiii-Baria.  13 

Oxus  takes  its  rise.  The  scene,  as  described  by 
Lieutenant  Wood,  who  penetrated  thither  on  the  19th 
February,  1838,  in  mid-winter,  is  so  striking  that 
we  need  not  apologize  for  introducing  it  here.  On 
reaciiing  a  spot  elevated  14,400  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  some  of  his  escort  refused  to  pro- 
ceed further  ;  upon  which  Lieutenant  Wood  deter- 
mined to  push  forward  with  the  remainder  through 
deep,  new-fallen  snow  : — "  As  we  neared  the  head 
waters  of  the  Oxus,  the  ice  became  weak  and 
brittle.  After  quitting  the  surface  of  the  river,  we 
travelled  about  an  hour  along  the  right  bank,  and 
then  ascended  a  low  hill  which  apparently  bounded 
the  valley  to  the  E. ;  on  surmounting  this  at  5  p.m. 
of  the  19th  February,  1838,  we  stood,  to  use  a 
native  expression,  on  Bam-i-Diiniah,  or  '  Roof  of 
the  World,'  while  before  us  lay  stretched  a  noble 
frozen  sheet  of  water,  from  whose  Western  ex- 
tremity issued  the  infant  Oxus.  This  fine  lake 
lies  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  about  14  miles  long 
from  E.  to  W.  by  one  mile  in  average  breadth.  On 
three  sides  it  is  bordered  by  swelling  hills  about 
500  feet  high,  while  along  its  south  bank  they  rise 
into  mountains  3500  feet  above  the  lake,  or  19,000 
feet  above  sea-level,  covered  with  perpetual  snow, 
from  which  never-failing  source  the  lake  is  supplied. 


14  Intrddtictioii. 

From  observations  made  at  the  W    end,   I  found 

the  latitude  to  be  37'  27'  X.,  73°  40'  E.,  and  the 

elevation,  as  deduced  from  the    boiling   point   of 

water,  15, GOO  feet.     The  hills  and  mountains  that 

encircle  Lake  Sir*-i-Kol  give  rise  to  some   of  the 

principal  rivers   in  Asia.      From  the  ridge  of  its 

East  end  flows   a  branch  of  the  Yarkand,  one  of 

the  largest  streams  that  water  Chinese  Turkestan, 

while  from  the  low  hills  rising  on  the  \.  issues  the 

Sir,*  or  river  of  Kokan ;  and  from  the  sunny  chain 

opposite,  both  forks  of  the  Oxus  and  a  branch  of 

the  Kunar  are  supplied.    When  the  lake  is  swollen 

by  the  molten  snows  of  summer,  the  size  of  the 

river  is   correspondingly  increased,   and  no   great 

alteration  takes  place  in  the  level  of  the  lake  itself. 

The  aspect  of  the  landscape  was  wintr\-  in    the 

extreme.   Wherever  the  eye  fell,  one  dazzling  sheet 

of  snow  covered  the  ground,  while  the  skv  OAcr- 

head  was   everywhere  of  a   dark   and  angry  hue. 

Clouds  would  have  been  a  rehef  to  the  eje,  but 

they  were  utterly  wanting.     Not  a  breath  moved 

along  the  face  of  the  lake  ;   not  a  beast,  not  even  ;i 

bird  was  visible." 

*  Eeceiit  authorities  since  the  visit  of  Lieutenant  "Wood  huvc, 
however,  established  that  there  is  no  affluent  of  the  8yr-Diiii;i,  which 
takes  its  rise  so  far  south  as  Luke  Sir-i-Ivol,  tlie  immense  ranges 
of  the  Belur  and  the  Ak-Dagh  intci'veuing. 


Description  of  the  K//ciinit  of  Kokaii.  J  5 

IV.  The  next  region  calling  for  notice  is  the 
Khanate  of  Kokan,  which  may  be  succinctly  de- 
scribed as  comprising  almost  the  entire  valley  of 
the  Syr-Daria  and  its  various  confluents.  But  the 
fact  that  this  State  has  only  recently  assumed  a  pro- 
minent position  in  Oriental  politics,  and  that,  partly 
in  consequence  of  the  nomad  half-savage  hordes 
which  form  its  northern  population,  partly  from  its 
geographical  position,  it  has  been  among  the  very 
earliest  to  come  into  direct  collision  with  Russia, 
makes  it  necessary  to  describe  with  as  much  ac- 
curacy as  possible,  the  exact  limits  of  the  territory 
over  which  the  Khan  of  Kokan  asserts  his  sove- 
reign rights.  In  order  to  this  purpose  it  will  be 
necessary  to  revert  to  the  north  shore  of  the  Sea  of 
Aral,  from  which  extends  eastward  a  series  of 
steppes,  inhabited  principally  by  the  Kirghiz 
Kiasaks,  who  are  divided  into  the  Lesser  or 
Western,  Middle,  and  Great  Hordes,  the  latter  being 
the  farthest  to  the  east,  and  extending  indeed  as 
far  as  the  great  Lake  Balkash,  and  the  banks  of 
the  Hi,  of  which  mention  will  be  found  in  the  fol- 
lowing pages.  The  pressure,  however,  of  a  power- 
ful civihzation  in  the  north,  and  a  sudden  impetus 
imparted  to  the  recent  history  of  Kokan,  owing 
to  its  last  Khan  having  dexterously  availed  himself 


IT)  I/ifrodiidioii. 

of  the  dissensions  long  rife  among  his  neighbours, 
have  tended  to  bring  these  wandering  hordes  into 
a  sort  of  precarious  allegianoe  to  one  or  other  of 
the  contending  ])owe]'s.  Russia  has  made  her 
advance  it  would  seem  chiefly  from  the  N.E.,  viz., 
from  the  Government  of  Tomsk,  in  Siberia. 
Hence  the  Greater  Horde  has  been  the  first  to  feel 
the  weight  of  her  authority,  and,  as  we  shall  pre- 
sently see,  it  is  upon  this  side  that  the  Russian 
outposts  have  been  pushed  forward  to  the  \'ery 
foot  of  the  Kuen-Lun  to  the  north.  But  a  not  less, 
severe  coercion  was  meanwhile  being  exercised  by 
the  Kokanians,  and  hence  we  find  the  limits  of 
the  Khanat  are  now  said  to  extend  as  far  north  as 
the  Ala-Tau,  or  Algonski  range  in  South- Western 
Siberia  (Lat.  48°  North),  in  which  parallel  the 
River  Sary-su,  which  falls  into  the  Teli-Kul  Lake, 
may  be  said  to  niark  its  limits  eastwards.  From 
this  point  the  boundary  line,  at  latest  accounts,  ex- 
tends to  the  banks  of  the  Syr-Daria,  where  the 
Russians  have  erected  the  fort  of  Perovsky  on 
the  right  bank,,  facing  the  Kokanian  town  of  Ak- 
Mesjid  already  alluded  to,  which  is  immediately 
opposite.  Although,  however,  the  Russians  have 
pushed  forward  thus  far,  it  is  simply  with  the  A'iew 
of  checking  the  predatory  habits  of  the  Kirghiz, 


Limits  of  the  Khanat  of  Kokan.  17 

who  acknowledge  the  sovereignty  of  the  Khan  of 
Kokan.  The  actual  boundary  line  lies  farther  to 
the  East,  and  includes  the  entire  Western  water- 
shed of  the  great  Lake  of  Balkash.  Prom  this 
point  it  still  continues  S.E.  to  the  Lake  of  Issyk- 
Kul.  Here  it  encounters  the  immense  chain  of  the 
Thian  Shan,  which  bounds  it  abruptly  along  its  S.E. 
frontier,  separating  it  from  Dzungaria  and  Chinese 
Turkestan,  after  passing  which  we  again  find  our- 
selves at  the  table-land  of  Pamir,  which  forms  a 
barrier  to  the  South.  The  Western  boundary 
seems  to  be  rather  arbitrary,  but  it  includes  a  con- 
siderable sweep  of  land  yet  further  west  than  the 
city  of  Khojend,  (the  Cyropolis  or  Alexandria 
Ultima  of  classical  writers).  The  entire  length  of 
this  extensive  territory  may  be  roughly  stated  at 
950  miles  by  an  average  breadth  of  360,  or  about 
345,000  square  miles  ;  the  whole  surface  being  ex- 
ceedingly mountainous,  and  forming  in  part  the 
west  buttress  of  the  great  central  table-land  of 
Asia.  The  whole  region  is  intersected  by  immense 
streams,  all  flowing  towards  the  Syr-Daria,  the 
majority  of  which,  however,  lose  themselves  in  the 
numerous  extensive  lakes  which  here  begin  to  stud 
the  surface  of  the  country,  and  possess  no  visible 
outlet.     Kokan,  though  rather  more  to  the  north 

c 


!>>  Introduction. 

than  Bokhara,  is,  on  the  whole,  more  fertile  and  of 
a  better  soil,  but  sheep  still  form,  as  in  past  ages, 
the  chief  wealth  of  the  community.  Kokan  in- 
cludes within  its  boundaries  a  number  of  consider- 
able towns,  besides  the  capital  of  the  same  name 
(a  comparatively  modern  town),  Khojend  already 
mentioned,  and  which  still  numbers  30,000  in- 
habitants, Andijan  the  former  capital,  a  little  to  the 
Eastward  of  the  present  capital,  Tashkend  with  a 
population  said  to  amount  to  100,000,  and  others 
dating  from  remote  times,  but  doomed  to  decay 
beneath  the  constant  warfare  which  has  so  long 
devastated  this  region.  Of  the  amount  of  popula- 
tion under  the  sway  of  the  Khan  of  Kokan,  it  is 
quite  impossible  to  give  even  an  approximate  esti- 
mate, owing  to  the  uncertainty  that  prevails  as  to 
the  Kirghiz  and  other  armed  tribes,  but  Nazarof 
reckons  the  standing  mihtia  at  no  fewer  than 
50,000  horsemen.  This  may  be  an  exaggeration, 
but  there  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  the  dis- 
trict watered  by  the  Syr-Daria  is  at  least  not 
less  thickly  populated  than  the  regions  we  have 
already  treated  of.  The  time  occupied  by  cara- 
vans between  Kokan  and  Bokhara  is  about  six 
weeks.  There  is  but  little  communication  be- 
tween   Kokan    and    Little    Bokhara,  the    Thian 


Our  Limited  Jcqi/aiulance  with  Little  Bokhara.    1 9 

Shan     interposing    an     almost     insurmountable 
obstacle. 

V.  Eastern  Turkestan,  Chinese  Turkestan,  or 
Little  Bokhara,  is,  of  all  this  region,  that  with 
which  we  have  hitherto  had  the  least  acquaintance. 
Its  Northern,  Western,  and  Southern  frontiers  are, 
indeed,  tolerably  well  defined,  and  as  we  know  that 
since  about  the  middle  of  last  century,  it  has 
nominally  belonged  to  the  Chinese  Empire,  we 
may  assume  that  its  limit  Eastward  is  indefinite,  as 
it  will  gradually  merge  in  Mongolia,  somewhere  still 
further  to  the  East  than  the  great  saline  basin  of  the 
Lob-nor.  The  Northern  boundary  is  Dzungaria, 
which  forms  the  subject  of  a  separate  chapter.  The 
Western  is  the  Khanat  of  Kokan  already  described, 
including  the  precipitous  Eastern  front  of  the  table- 
land of  Pamir,  and  it  is  shut  off  from  Little  Thibet 
and  Thibet  Proper,,  to  the  South  and  South-East,  by 
the  Eastern  half  of  the  Hindoo-Koosh,  and  the  Wes- 
tern chain  of  the  great  Kuen-Lun,  over  which  the 
most  frequented  pass  is  that  of  Kara-Korum,  18604 
feet  above  sea  level,  connecting  Ladak  with  Yark- 
end  by  the  headwaters  of  the  Shayok,  which,  ris- 
ing in  a  glacier  not  far  from  the  pass  itself,  falls 
into  the  Indus  after  a  Westerly  course  of  320  miles, 
just  above  the  town  of  Iskardo,  35°  10"  N.  75°  28'  E. 

c  2 


20  Infnxh/ctioii. 

The  entire  territory  of  Little  Bokhara,  assuming  it 
to  extend  as  far  as  the  meridian  of  90°,  thus  includ- 
ing the  great  Lake  of  Lob,  is  sterile  in  the  extreme, 
but  relieved  by  large  and  fertile  oases — a  feature 
common  to  the  continuation  of  the  desert  eastward 
where  it  becomes  the  great  Desert  of  Gobi  or  Shamo. 
Of  the  various  oases,  the  most  important  and  best 
known  are  those  of  Kashgar,  Yarkend,  and  Khotan. 
Of  these  the  first-named  hes  at  thefoot  of  thesouthern 
spurs  of  the  Thian-Shan  range,  and  consists  of  a 
well-watered  tract,  on  the  principal  river  of  ■which, 
called  by  the  same  name,  is  the  city  of  Kashgar. 
This  was,  for  many  centuries,  the  seat  of  an  inde- 
pendent prince  ;  but,  since  the  rebellion  of  1826, 
has  been  reduced  by  the  Chinese  authorities  to  a 
secondary  position  in  the  district  of  Hi,  of  which 
Yarkend  is  the  capital,  and  to  which  Khotan  has 
also  been  attached.  Kashgar  city  is  in  39°  25'  N., 
and  74'  E.  (approximative)  ;  and  the  river  on  which 
it  is  situated,  after  a  course  of  300  miles,  unites 
with  that  of  Yarkend  to  form  the  Tarym,  which, 
after  a  further  course  of  250  miles,  falls  into  the 
great  Lake  of  Lob-nor.  Both  these  streams  are 
famous  for  the  splendid  specimens  of  jasper  and 
jade-stone  which  are  found  in  their  beds.  Yark- 
end is  the  capital  of  the  Chinese  district  of  Hi, 


Physkal  Features  of  Chinese  Turkestan.      21 

and  is  situate  in  38°  10'  N.  and  76°  30'  E.  on  a 
river  (already  mentioned)  of  the  same  name.  It  is 
walled,  but  with  extensive  suburbs,  and  has  a 
population  variously  estimated  at  from  40,000  to 
200,000.  It  has  belonged  to  China  since  1757,  and 
is  governed  by  Mahometan  and  Chinese  officials 
alternately.  The  environs  are  highly  cultivated, 
producing  wheat,  barley,  rice,  fruits,  and  silk,  and 
there  is  extensive  pasturage.  Yarkend  is  known  to 
the  Chinese  by  the  name  of  Ja-lo-Kiang. — Khotan 
lies  to  the  Eastward  of  Yarkend,  and  lies  in  an  oasis 
said  by  the  Chinese  to  be  about  1000  li.  or  350 
m.  in  circumference,  immediately  to  the  North  of 
the  Kara-Korum  Pass.  It  is  watered  by  a  great 
number  of  streams,  almost  all  of  which  flow  into 
the  Lob-nor.  It  contains  the  six  cities  of  Khotan, 
Yurun-Khash,  Kara-Khash,  Djira-,  Keria,  and  Tak- 
hubin,  each  of  which  is  governed  by  a  Hakim,  whose 
united  votes  constitute  what  is  called  the  Council 
of  Khotan.  It  is  painful  to  see  the  discrepancies 
into  which  even  the  most  renowned  geographers 
have  fallen  as  to  the  true  site  of  this  town,  which 
has  been  variously  stated  as  on  any  meridian  be- 
tween 75  E.  and  84  E.  According  to  the  most 
reliable  authorities,  the  city  is  situate  in  37°  N.  and 
80°  35'  E.,  a  position  which  very  nearly  corresponds 


22  Introduction. 

with  the  site  assigned  to  it  as  immediately  to 
the  N.E.  of  the  Kara-Korum  Pass.  It  is  the  Th-tchi 
or  Ho-taen  of  the  Chinese,  and  is  supposed  to  con- 
tain about  50,000  inhabitants.  It  was  originally 
a  Hindoo  colony,  supposed  to  have  been  foimded 
about  the  second  century;  but  the  magnificent 
Buddhist  Temples  and  Monasteries  were  all 
destroyed  by  the  Mahometan  conquerors.  The 
northern  portion  of  Little  Bokhara,  under  the 
shadow,  as  it  were,  of  the  Ala-Tagh,  is  the  district 
of  Aksu,  one  of  the  most  fertile  of  the  provinces 
into  which  the  Chinese  have  subdivided  their 
acquisitions  here  after  the  revolt  of  1826.  The 
products  are  various,  consisting  chiefly  of  lentils, 
wheat,  barley,  millet,  apricots,  grapes,  and  melons, 
and  cotton  is  also  said  to  grow  here  of  fair  quality. 
The  capital,  of.  the  same  name,  is  situate  in 
lat.  41^  9'  N.,  78°  40'  E.,  and,  according  to  Tim- 
kowski,  is  the  seat  of  a  Chinese  ambassador  or 
viceroy.  The, population  of  the  town  is  estimated 
by  Moorcroft  at  about  25,000,  and  of  the  entire 
district  at  130,000.  The  natives  of  the  district 
are  renowned  for  their  taste  in  dressing  hides  and 
manufactiuring  cotton  goods,  and  it  is  stated  that 
there  are  mines  of  copper  and  one  of  rubies  in  the 
mmediate  neighbourhood. 


CHAPTER    II. 

Alridged  Narrative  of  a  Journey  to  Khiva,  voith 
Historical  Particulars  relating  to  the  Klianat 
during  the  Government  of  Seid-Mohammed 
KJian,  1856-1860,  by  E.  Kuhlewein. 

The  Mission  for  Central  Asia,  organized  in  1858 
by  the  Russian  Government,  under  the  immediate, 
superintendence  of  General  Ignatief,  left  Orenburg 
on  the  27th  of  May  of  that  year,  and  crossing  the 
rivers  Ilek  and  Emba,  passed  through  the  Oren- 
burg Steppe  and  along  the  Western  shore  of  the 
Sea  of  Aral  to  Aibugir  Lake.  At  Cape  Urga*  it 
was  determined  to  cross  in  native  boats,  as  the 
previously  selected  route,  via  Kuhna-Urgendj,  was 
found  to  be  inconvenient  in  many  respects. 

Erom  Cape  Urga  to  Aibugir  settlement,  stretches 

*  4.3°  40'  N,,  58°  10'  E.  (approximative.) 


24  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

the  South-Eastern  Tchink*  of  the  Ust-Urt,  which 
visibly  diminishes  in  elevation  as  it  retires  from 
the  Sea  of  Aral,  and  in  so  doing  loses  its  former 
wild  aspect,  although  it  continues  to  preserve 
for  a  long  distance  its  rocky  and  precipitous 
characteristics. 

Near  Cape  Urga  the  Mission  was  met  by  four 
deputies  from  the  Khan  of  Khiva.  These  were  the 
Karakalpak  Prince  Istleu,  the  Kirghiz  Bey  Az- 
bergen,  Murad  Bek,  and  a  son  of  the  Governor  of 
Kungrad.  These  envoys  accompanied  us  to  our 
camp,  which  was  situated  near  Aibugir  Lake,  and 
close  to  a  four-cornered  pyramidal  tower,  erected 
by  Prince  Bekovitch  in  17l7.t 

The  passage  over  Aibugir  Lake  took  three  days, 
owing  to  the  insufficient  number  of  boats,  and  the 
tedious  transhipment  of  the  heavy  baggage  of  the 
Mission.     Aibugir  Lake  is  about  eighty  miles  long 

*  L'Oust-Ourt  est  un  plateau  qui  ii'a  nuUe  part  plus  de  six  cents 
pieds  de  hauteur  au-dessus  du  niveau  des  mers  qu'il  separe. 
Cette  haute  plaine  se  termine  en  se  dessinant  circulairement  par  un 
rivage  escarp^  et  tout  boulcvcrsc,  que  les  Kirghiz,  nomuient  Chink, 
au  has  du  quel  s'eteud,  en  declinant,  la  plaine  basse.  (Lesvehine,  "De- 
scription des  Kirghiz-Kaizaks  :"  Paris,  Iiiipriinerie  Royale,  p.  15 
Edition,  IS-IO.) 

f  Prince  Bekovitch  was  despatched  by  Peter  tlie  Great  on  a  mis- 
sion to  Khiva  in  1717,  in  the  course  of  which  he  was  massacred, 
with  all  his  suite,  in  tlic  town  of  Porsu,  Ofi  miles  to  the  North-West 
of  Khiva. 


Passaye  of  Aibuyir  Lake.  25 

by  twenty  in  breadth  at  the  part  where  we  crossed 
it.  Its  chief  affluent  is  the  Laudan,  a  branch  of 
the  Amu-Daria  (Oxus).  The  greatest  depth  in 
the  lake  occurs  in  the  Bay  of  Ak-Cheganak,  which 
is  hemmed  in  by  the  sterile  and  precipitous  rocks 
of  the  Ust-Urt  Chink.  The  banks  are  overgrown 
with  canes,  which  cover  nearly  the  whole  surface  of 
the  lake.  The  water  is  brackish,  with  a  muddy 
bottom. 

On  the  Khivan  shore  we  were  met  by  the  above- 
mentioned  deputies  and  a  guard  of  honour,  which 
was  to  accompany  the  Mission  as  far  as  Kungrad. 
On  the  following  day  the  deputies  were  accorded  a 
formal  reception  by  the  head  of  the  Russian  Mis- 
sion, in  a  tent  specially  arranged  for  the  occasion. 
This  audience,  however,  only  lasted  half  an  hour, 
and  the  conversation  was  exclusively  confined  to 
ceremonious  compliments. 

On  the  1 1th  July,  the  Mission,  still  escorted  by 
Khivans,  started  for  Kungrad.  Cultivated  patches 
and  small  villages  bordered  this  part  of  the  road, 
and  the  whole  face  of  the  country  was  intersected 
by  canals,  used  almost  exclusively  for  irrigating  the 
fields.  Nearly  the  whole  of  the  settled  population 
of  the  Khanat  of  Khiva  is  concentrated  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Amu-Daria.     Each  owner  of  the  soil 


26  Travels  in  Central  Ada. 

marks  off  his  allotment  with  earthen  walls,  every 
such  enclosure  generally  containing  cornfields, 
gardens,  cattle,  and  sometimes  a  little  factory ;  the 
owner  is  called  a  Beg  or  Hodja. 

About  half-way  to  Kungrad  we  were  met  by  a 
Custom-House  official,  who  was  the  bearer  of  the 
usual  salutations  from  the  Khan,  and  announced 
that  he  had  been  sent  to  inquire  of  what  the  bag- 
gage consisted ;  a  rumour  had  evidently  reached 
Khiva  of  the  embassy  being  provided  with  cannon. 
It  having  been  explained  to  him  that  the  baggage 
of  a  Mission  is  never  liable  to  search,  he  requested 
to  be  furnished  at  least  with  a  list  of  our  effects. 
Satisfied  with  an  inventory  of  our  heaviest  things, 
he  took  his  departure,  after  being  gratified  by  a 
small  present.  The  other  Khivan  officials  also  took 
leave  of  us  here,  not  omitting  to  make  repeated 
inquiries  during  the  day  respecting  the  health  of  the 
head  of  the  Mission.  We  encamped  for  the  night 
near  the  garden  of  the  Kirghiz  Bey,  Azbergen, 
where  a  repast  consisting  of  mutton,  bread,  and 
fruit  had  been  prepared  for  us. 

On  the  12th  July  we  found  ourselves  approach- 
ing Kungrad.  In  a  small  wood  within  half  a  mile 
of  the  town,  all  the  members  of  the  Mission  put  on 
their  uniforms,  with  the  view  of  making  an  impos- 


pi 
C 


Eiitry  into  the  City  of  Kungrad.  27 

ing  entrance.  As  we  advanced  towards  the  town, 
the  crowd  gradually  increased,  and  greeted  us  with 
incessant  shouts  of  "  Urus  !   TJrus!" 

After  traversing  the  narrow  streets  of  Kungrad, 
we  stopped  at  the  gates  of  the  Khan's  palace,  where 
we  were  received  by  Divan  Baba,  an  official 
specially  appointed  to  accompany  the  Mission  to 
Khiva.  In  this  palace  apartments  were  allotted  for 
each  member  of  the  Embassy.  A  tent,  in  which 
refreshments  had  been  prepared,  was  erected  in  an 
interior  court.  The  Yesawul  Bashi,*  governor  of 
the  town,  did  not  make  his  appearance  till  the  even- 
ing. He  was  evidently  alarmed  at  our  arrival,  and 
did  all  he  could  to  induce  us  to  hurry  our  depar- 
ture. The  motive  for  this  churlish  behaviour  was 
clear.  He  had  received  orders  from  the  Khan  to 
provide  at  his  own  expense  for  all  the  wants  of  the 
Mission  during  its  stay  at  Kungrad. 

The  town  of  Kungrad  extends  along  the  left  side 
of  the  Khan  canal  and  the  river  Amu-Daria.  Be- 
tween the  right  bank  of  the  canal  and  the  river 
runs  a  broad  earthen  wall,  about  three  miles  in 
length,  and  at  a  short  distance  off,  between  it  and 

*  Chief  Master  of  the  Ceremonies.  Yesawul,  a  Turkish  word, 
means  a  guard  or  armed  attendant  at  a  court.  It  has  been  adopted 
into  Russia,  and  is  there  used  to  denote  a  major  of  Cossacks. 


>'^  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

the  river,  is  a  second  wall,  both  extremities  of 
which  abut  on  the  river,  thus  forming,  with  the 
river  bank,  an  oblong  square.  These  two  walls 
constituted  at  one  time  the  fortifications  of  Kun- 
grad,  which  town,  so  late  as  the  beginning  of  this 
century,  was  independent  of  Khiva,  and  governed 
by  its  own  Uzbek  princes.  During  the  reign  of 
Mohammed-Rahim-Khan,  in  1814,  the  whole  town 
and  neighbourhood  fell  under  the  sway  of  the 
Khans  of  Khiva.  The  most  remarkable  building 
in  Kungrad  is  the  palace  of  the  Khan,  which  was 
occupied  by  us  diuing  our  stay. 

On  the  folloM'ing  day  the  whole  ]\Iission  started 
in  seven  boats  up  the  Amu-Daria,  each  boat 
being  towed  by  four  or  five  Khivans.  Our  pro- 
gress was  tedious,  rarely  exceeding  ten  miles  a 
day.  In  order  to  avoid  falling  in  with  Turkmen, 
and  sometimes  to  shorten  the  journey,  our  boats 
were  hauled  through  canals  and  branches  of  the 
river,  which  had  at  this  season  overflowed  its  banks. 
These  inundations  occur  twice  a  year,  from  May  to 
June,  and  again  from  July  to  August,  a  sure  indi- 
cation that  the  sources  of  the  river  must  lie 
among  the  snowy  chains  of  Balkh  or  Affghanistan. 
The  effect  of  these  inundations  upon  the  canals  is 
various  ;  some  are  choked  with  sand,  while  others 


Bcrasfafioihs  hij  the  Tiirkiiicii.  29 

are  cleaned  and  deepened  by  the  pressure  of  the 
water. 

The  transport  of  goods  by  water  is  preferable 
throughout   this   region   to   their   conveyance   by 
land,  not  alone  on  account  of  the  far  lower  cost, 
but  also  because  the  camel-drivers  refuse  to  follow 
the  course  of  the  river,  owing  to  the  swarms  of 
gnats,   gad-flies,  and  other  insects,  which  greatly 
harass,  and  even  prove  fatal  occasionally  to  their 
cattle,    as    also   to   the    damp,   unwholesome    air 
which  induces  ague.     Almost  all  the  villages  and 
towns  were  in  a  deplorable  condition,  presenting 
ample  evidence  of  the  devastations  of  the  Turk- 
men.    In   the   ruined  "  aiils "  or  camps   of  the 
Karakalpaks,  we  only  found  old  people  and  infants  ; 
the  whole  of  the  adult  population  had  been  carried 
away  to  Khiva,  and  across  the  Persian  frontier,  to 
be  sold  as  slaves.     The  towns  of  Kipchak  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Amu-Daria,  and  Hodjeil,  had  met 
with  a  similar  fate.     At  a  distance  of  twenty  miles 
from  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  town  of  Giyaiir,  and 
not   far  from  the  banks  of  the  river,  stands  the 
town  of  Yany-Urgendj,  or  New  Urgendj,  which, 
after    Khiva,  is   the   chief   commercial    entrepot. 
Russian  merchandise  is  taken  direct  to  Khiva,  but 
all  purchases  of  native  produce  are  made  at  Ur- 


30  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

gendj.  All  industrial  pursuits,  moreover,  are  cen- 
tred here.  Gunpowder  is  manufactured  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  tovi^n,  but  in  no  great  quantities. 
The  principal  seat  of  production  of  this  article  is 
Hazarasp,  a  little  further  up  the  river,  S.E.  from 
Urgendj.  The  Khan  had  sent  Darga,  a  Khivan 
dignitary,  to  Yany-Urgendj  with  a  small  suite  to 
receive  us.  He  was  a  venerable  old  man,  and 
stood  apparently  high  in  the  favour  of  the  Khan, 
as  his  Cashmere  "  khalat,"  or  robe  of  dignity,  and 
jewelled  dagger,  testified.  In  his  suite  were  several 
dancers  and  musicians. 

On  the  28th  of  July  we  turned  out  of  the  Amu- 
Daria  into  the  Shavat  Canal,  on  emerging  from 
which  we  passed  through  the  Kazavat  and  Palvan- 
Ata  Canals,  and  finally  reached  the  capital  by  the 
Tngrik  and  Chardgeh  branches  of  the  two  former. 
The  Mission  took  up  its  quarters  outside  the  town, 
in  the  gardens  of  Gumgumdan,  which  the  Khan 
had  assigned  it.  Having  no  horses,  we  could  not 
present  ourselves  before  the  Khan,  and  therefore 
deferred  our  audience  until  the  9th  of  August, 
On  the  day  of  our  arrival,  at  five  o'clock,  we  were 
visited  by  the  Shawul  Bek,*  chamberlain  to  the 

*  In  Bokhara,  the  Shek-Kawaul  is  the  title  of  the  functionarj,  a 
sort  of  diplomatic  chamberlain,  charged  with  the  reception  and  ac- 
commodation of  Foreign  Missions. 


Tedious  P((KS(if/<'  In/  ll'tt/er  to  Kliiiyi. 


.31 


court,  -who,  in  the  nnme  of  the  Kliaii,  invited  the 
head  of  the  Mission  to  the  palace.  Leaving  a 
guard  at  the  door  of  the  embassy,  we  started  for 


Daega,  o?;e  of  tke  JIinjstees  of  the  Kjiax  of  Kuh'a. 


the  town.  At  the  gates  Avas  drawn  up  the  Kliivan 
infantry,  while  the  body-guard  was  marshalled  in 
front  of  the  pahtce.     We  entered  tlie  latter  by  the 


33  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

lofty  principal  portals,  leaving  our  escort  outside 
We  were  first  received  by  the  Mehter,  one  of  the 
chief  Ministers  of  the  Khan.  It  must  here  be 
observed  that  all  the  officers  of  state  have  apart- 
ments in  the  Khan's  palace,  where  they  assemble 
every  day  to  receive  his  instructions.  We  re- 
mained about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  the  Mehter's 
chamber,  whence  we  were  summoned  into  the  Khan's 
presence.  AVe  found  him  seated  on  an  elevated 
divan,  with  a  dagger  and  pistol  lying  before  him, 
while  behind  him  floated  his  state  banner.  Three 
ministers,  the  Kush-Begi,  Mehter,  and  Divan-Begi, 
stood  in  front,  and  the  Chamberlain  at  the  door. 
The  Imperial  rescript,  which  the  Secretary  of  the 
Mission  bore  on  a  red  cushion,  was  now  dehvered 
by  the  head  of  the  Mission  to  the  Mehter,  who,  in 
his  turn,  placed  it  in  the  hands  of  the  Khan. 
Having  untied  the  gold  cord  and  taken  it  out  of 
the  case,  he  examined  the  seal  for  some  time,  and 
then  placed  the  packet  beside  him  without  open- 
ing it. 

Seid-Mohammed  Khan,  son  of  the  former  Khan 
Mohammed-Uahim,  and  brother  of  the  better  known 
Allah-Kuli,  was  elected  in  1856,  when  he  was  thirty 
years  old.  He  succeeded  Kutlu-Murad,  nephew  of 
Mohammed- Amin,  who  was  killed  in  1855  at  Saraks, 


Unsettled  State  of  the  Cotintry .  33 

near  Merv.*  The  Turkmen  and  Karakalpaks,  dis- 
satisfied with  Kutlu-Murad,  respectively  chose  for 
their  Khans  the  former,  Ata-Murad,  and  the  latter, 
Jarlyk-Tura. 

Intimidated  by  this  energetic  form  of  protest, 
Kutlu-Murad  exhorted  his  people  to  rise  against 
the  Turkmen,  who,  on  their  part,  perceiving  the 
weakness  of  the  Khan,  determined  to  take  advantage 
of  it,  and  under  the  leadership  of  Niaz  Mohammed 
Bai,  advanced  to  Khiva.  Niaz  Bai,  having  gained 
admittance  to  the  Palace  under  pretence  of  paying 
homage  to  the  Khan,  murdered  him  and  his  seven 
ministers.  This  led  to  an  indiscriminate  carnage 
in  the  unfortunate  town ;  the  inhabitants  fell  on  the 
Turkmen,  of  whom  very  few  made  their  escape. 
Niaz  Bai  was  there  and  then  seized  and  executed. 

After  a  short  interregnum,  Seid-Mohammed  was 
elected  Khan.  His  first  act  was  to  punish  the  re- 
bellious Turkmen  and  Karakalpaks.  A  detachment 
of  his  troops  routed  a  body  of  the  rebels  who  were 
on  their  way  from  Kuhna-Urgendj  to  dispute  his 

*  Merv  is  a  decayed  town,  situated  ia  an  oasis  of  the  same  name, 
about  300  miles  S.E.  of  KMva.  It  was  once  the  capital  of  the  Seljuks, 
and  is  supposed  to  occupy  the  site  of  Antiochia  Morgiana,  founded 
by  Alexander  the  Great.  Since  1786,  when  it  was  sacked  by  the 
Uzbeks,  it  has  gradually  dwindled,  tiU  its  present  population  does  not 
exceed  3000. 


'^  4  7)ytr('k  in  Central  Jsia. 

succession.  On  this  occasion  Jarlik,  the  Khan  chosen 
by  the  Karakalpaks  in  1855,  was  killed,  and  a  por- 
tion of  that  tribe  became  subject  to  Bokhara. 
These  dynastic  disputes,  and  the  constant  wars  aris- 
ing therefrom,  produced  a  famine,  which  greatly  in- 
creased the  price  of  all  commodities  ;  bread,  in  par- 
ticular, rising  to  an  immoderate  figure.  During  the 
summer  of  1857,  Khiva  was  visited  by  an  epidemic, 
aggravated  if  not  induced  by  the  famine,  and  the 
consequent  prostration  of  strength  of  the  popu- 
lation. It  was  remarked  during  the  prevalence  of 
this  pestilence  that  the  rate  of  mortality  was  particu- 
larly high  among  children.  Prom  a  description  of 
the  symptoms  of  this  disorder,  it  must  have  been 
the  true  Asiatic  cholera. 

Since  the  year  1856,  Khiva  has  been  on  friendly 
terms  with  Bokhara.  Seid-Mohammed  had  suc- 
ceeded in  establishing  his  power  so  securely,  that 
external  aggression  and  intestine  strife  were  for  a 
time  suspended.  Thus  considering  himself  firmly 
established  on  the  throne,  he  despatched  an  embassy 
to  Russia  in  the  summer  of  1857,  conveying  an  in- 
timation of  his  succession  to  the  Khanat,  his  con- 
dolence on  the  death  of  the  Emperor  Nicholas,  and 
congratulating  His  Majesty  the  Emperor  Alexander 
the  Second  on  his  accession  to  the  throne.    The  head 


lieceid  History  of  Khiva.  35 

of  this  mission  was  Tazyl  liodja,  Sheikh-ul-Islain 
of  the  Khanat. 

During  the  stay  of  the  Russian  mission  at  Khiva 
the  town  enjoyed  tranquillity,  and  the  Turkmen 
tribes,  the  Yamuds,  Igdyrs  and  others  refrained 
from  making  depredations ;  but  immediately  the 
mission  left,  which  was  on  the  1 2th  September,  the 
Kungrad  Uzbeks  and  the  Karakalpaks  joining  in 
league  with  the  Turkmen  Elan,  Ata-Murad,  assassi- 
nated their  ruler,  Kutlu-Murad,  with  many  of  his 
party.  He  was  succeeded  by  Mohammed-Fanaa, 
nephew  of  Tiira-Sufi,  during  whose  rule  Kungrad 
became,  in  1814,  subject  to  Khiva.  Mohammed- 
Panaa  styled  himself  Khan  of  the  Kharesm,  and 
struck  coins  bearing  his  name. 

After  the  lapse  of  another  year  the  disturbances 
ceased ;  Mohammed-Fanaa  was  killed,  and  Kungrad 
again  recognized  the  authority  of  the  Khan  of  Khiva, 
S  eid-Mohammed. 

In  1858  Seid-Mohammed  had  three  legitimate 
sons,  of  whom  the  eldest,  Babadjan,  was  13  years 
old;  he  also  adopted  the  son  of  his  predecessor, 
Kutlu-Murad,  killed  in  the  palace  by  the  Turkmen. 
The  Emir  of  Bokhara  proposed  to  marry  his  daugh- 
ter to  this  boy,  possibly  with  the  view  of  exercising 
an  indirect  influence  over  the  affairs  of  Khiva  by 

D  2 


36  Travels  in  Central  Atsiu. 

means  of  such  a  connection.  The  Khan  was  almost 
entirely  under  the  influence  of  his  eldest  brother, 
Seid-Mahmud,  a  man  of  great  mental  powers  and 
vast  wealth,  whose  advice  he  often  sought,  his  own 
intellect  being  often  obscured  by  immoderate  indul- 
gence in  opium. 

The  following  are  the  highest  functionaries  in 
Khiva  :■ — The  Mehter  or  Chief  Treasurer,  who  col- 
lects thepoU-tax  in  the  southern  half  of  the  Khanate ; 
he  likewise  occasionally  commands  the  troops,  and, 
during  the  absence  of  the  Khan,  is  charged  with 
the  conduct  of  the  government.  The  second  in 
authority  is  the  Kush-Begi,  vs^ho  receives  the  poll- 
tax  for  the  northern  division  of  the  Khanat,  recruits 
the  army,  and  superintends  the  excavation  of  canals. 
In  1858  the  Kush-Begi,  a  fierce  Uzbek,  succeeded 
in  defaming  and  supplanting  the  Mehter,  whose 
functions  he  himself  performed  during  the  stay  of 
the  Mission.  The  Divan-Begi  is  the  collector  of 
Customs  and  Excise  dues,  and  head  of  the  Mint. 
The  high  judge  and  spiritual  chief,  Kazy,*  is  re- 
sponsible for  all  religious  matters.  The  Darga  has 
charge   of  the   Khan's  palace,  and   the   Yesawul 

*  In  all  probability  the  same  as  the  Arabic  cadi.  Which  is  the 
elder  language,  or  niav  it  not  liave  been  introdviced  with  the  spread 
of  Mohammedanism? — [Ed] 


llujh  Oficerfi  of  the  Khan  of  Khiva.  37 

Bashi  is  the  military  commander-in-chief.  Besides 
these,  who  are  all,  as  already  mentioned,  attached 
to  the  person  of  the  Khan,  there  are  nunierons 
Mehrems  or  Courtiers,  who  wear  a  knife,  a  gift  of 


Son  of  Tjrr:  Khan  of  Khiva. 


the  Khan,  which  entitles  them  to  free  access  to  the 
Court. 

It  may  not   be   superfluous  to    draw  attention  to 


38  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

the  condition  of  the  Khanat  itself,  under  the  rule 
of  Seid-Mohammed. 

Limits  of  the  Khanat. — If  we  are  to  consider, 
under  the  name  of  the  Khanat  of  Khiva,  the  culti- 
vated extent  of  land  stretching  along  both  sides  of 
the  lower  course  of  the  Amu-Daria,  its  confines 
may  be  fixed  at  the  southern  shore  of  Lake  Aral  at 
the  Kizyl-Kum  Steppe  and  Sheikh-Djeli  Hills  on 
the  East,  the  great  Turkmen  Steppe  on  the  South, 
and  the  level  plain  of  the  Ust-Urt  on  the  West. 

The  pretensions,  however,  of  the  Khan  of  Khiva, 
extend  considerably  beyond  these  limits.  He 
maintains  that  the  boundaries  of  Khiva  are  the 
rivers  Emba  and  Yany-Daria,  falling  into  the  Sea 
of  Aral,  on  the  North  ;  a  line  extending  to  Kukertli 
settlement,  lat.  40°  N.,  on  the  Amu-Daria,  on  the 
East ;  and  on  the  South  from  Kukertli  to  the  town 
of  Merv,  and  thence  to  the  Bay  of  Balkansk  on  the 
East  shore  of  the  Caspian. 

Assuming  the  former  as  the  actual  limits  of 
Khiva,  this  territory  does  not  contain  more  than 
40,000  square  miles. 

The  popidation  of  the  Khanat  consists  of  a 
number  of  tribes  of  separate  origin,  which  have 
not  as  yet  blended  into  one  people.  Their  number 
is  difhcult  to  determine,  as  no  census  has  ever  been 
taken. 


Triijcs  iuhdhit'ivg  the  Klutiiat  of  Khiva.        39 

The  principal  tribes  are  :  the  Sarts,  the  aborigi- 
nal inhabitants,  who  form  the  great  majority  of  the 
settled  population.*  Previous  to  Iltezer  Khan,  who, 
in  the  end  of  the  last  century,  was  the  first  to 
assume  that  title,  the  Sarts  suffered  much  from  the 
oppression  of  the  Uzbeks ;  but,  since  the  subjec- 
tion of  all  the  Uzbek  "  Inaks  "  or  petty  rulers  of 
towns,  by  Iltezer  Khan,  the  Sarts  have  been  ad- 
mitted to  the  highest  offices  of  state,  from  which 
the  Uzbeks  were  gradually  excluded.  \Vith  the 
exception  of  the  post  of  Kush-Begi,  all  the  most 
honourable  positions  are  occupied  by  Sarts,  who 
have  now  become  the  predominant  class  among  the 
population.  They  live  principally  in  the  towns, 
and,  in  addition  to  agriculture,  are  engaged  in 
trade,  industrial  pursuits,  and  breeding  silk-worms. 
The  Sarts  are  still  distinguishable  from  the  Uzbeks 
by  their  type  of  countenance. 

The  Uzbeks,  the  whilom  conquering  race,  who 
are  scattered  throughout  the  whole  Khanat,  live  on 
farms,  and  occupy  themselves  with  agriculture, 
gardening  and  fishing.  They  now  form,  both 
numerically  and  politically,  the  secondary  class  of 
the  population.     The  most  unruly  sept  of  this  tribe, 

*  The  Sarts  are  Persians  in  language  and  sect ;  Sart  in  Khivan 
being  equivalent  to  Taj  in  Bokharian. 


40  Traveh  in  Cetitral  Asia. 

the  Uigurs,  were  exterminated  by  the  Khans  for 
their  constant  revolts.  To  the  north  of  the  Sea  of 
Aral,  the  Uzbeks  are  called  Aral-Uzbeks,  insular 
or  Arasto-Arals,  as  the  whole  portion  of  the  region 
to  the  north  of  the  Laudan,  an  arm  of  the  Amu- 
Daria,  is  really  an  island.  The  Arals  are  engaged  in 
cattle -farming  principally,  as  also  in  fishing.  The 
Kungrad  tribe,  from  which  the  Khan  has  sprung,  is 
considered  the  chief  one.  The  number  of  Uzbeks 
and  Sarts  together  is  reckoned  at  400,000. 

The  Karakalpaks,  numbering  15,000  settlers  on 
the  lower  course  of  the  Amu-Daria,  near  the  Aral 
Sea,  lead  a  partially  nomadic  life.  They  are 
burdened  with  taxes  heavier  than  those  imposed 
on  any  of  the  other  tribes,  the  result  being  to 
completely  impoverish  them. 

The  Kirghizes,  under  Khivan  jurisdiction,  are 
estimated  at  about  10,000 ;  they  ro^m  in  the 
North-Eastern  portion  of  the  Khanat,  more  espe- 
cially in  the  vicinity  of  Lake  Dau-Kara. 

The  Turkmen  have  for  ages  been  under  the 
dominion  of  the  Khiva  Khans.  Their  type  and 
language  are  purely  Turkish,  and  many  of  them 
ha\e  seceded  from  the  Khivans,  and  are  now 
governed  by  their  own  elders ;  while  those  still 
subject  to  Khiva  are  engaged  in  constant  wrangles 


Turkmen  Insurrections. 


41 


Avith  the  Khivans,  all  arising  in  the  election  of  a 
Khan.  The  Turkmen  were  desirous  to  have  a 
Khan  of  their  own  tribe,  to  wliich  the  Khivans  were 
opposed  ;  this  resulted  in  the  murder  of  three  Khans 


A  TuiiKMA^,  OK  Turcoman. 


by  the  Turkmen,  within  a  short  space  of  time. 
The  Khan  of  their  choice,  Ata-Murad,  usually 
resides  at    Kuhna  Urgendj.       The   Turkmen    are 


i'2.       I  Trr/p/'/s  in  Cenfral  Ax'ia. 

employed  in  agriculture,  but  chiefly  in  the  breed- 
ing of  horses.  Turkmen  Argamaks,  or  steeds 
intended  for  complimentary  gifts,  are  famous 
throughout  Central  Asia.  The  women  manufac- 
ture carpets,  which  in  texture  and  durability  are 
not  inferior  to  the  Persian. 

The  Kyzyl-Bash,  (better  known  to  English 
readers  under  the  familiar  spelling  of  Kuzzilbash), 
or  Persian  prisoners,  in  slavery,  live  on  the  estates 
of  their  masters.  The  lamshido,  or  Turk  tribe, 
have  returned  to  their  native  country  in  virtue 
of  an  agreement  between  Dost  ^lahommed 
and  Rahim-Kuli.  They  were  improperly  called 
AflFghans. 

A  small  colony  of  Jews,  numbering  about  ten 
families,  who  have  immigrated  from  Bokhara,  earn 
a  precarious  livelihood  by  dyeing,  and  distilling 
brandy  chiefly  for  their  own  consumption.  There 
are  no  Arabs  in  Khiva. 

The  Khan  of  Khiva  coins  his  own  money,  of 
which  gold,  silver,  and  copper  pieces  are  in  circu- 
lation. The  gold  coins,  or  tilas,  are  of  two  de- 
nominations :  large  ducats,  worth  about  twelve 
shilhngs,  and  half-ducats  of  six  shillings.  The 
silver  coins  are :  the  tenga,  equal  to  about  seven- 
pence,    and   the  shahi,    worth    threepence.      The 


MefaUic  Ciirreiicji  of  Kliira. 


4:3 


pul,  or  karapul,  is  a  copper  coin.  The  value  of 
money  seldcin  varies,  and  during  our  stay,  forty- 
eight  puis  formed  one  tonga.  TJie  mint  in  the 
town    of  Khi\  a  was  founded,  accordins;  to  Moui'a- 


Sakuaz.  Ill;  soLJtitu  ijF  ivnnA. 


vief,  by  Rahiin  Khan.  In  otticial  documents,  as 
also  on  the  coins  of  Khiva,  the  ancient  name  of 
Kharesm  is  retained. 


44  Traveh  in  Central  Asia. 

In  Khiva  there  is  a  body  of  about  1,000  infantry, 
and  about  20,000  cavalry,  who  are  commanded  by 
a  hundred  Min-Bashis. 

In  time  of  wax  the  troops  receive  four  times 
their  ordinary  pay.  Their  artillery  is  in  a  deplor- 
able condition.  Even  of  the  eight  or  ten  pieces  of 
cannon  standing  in  front  of  the  Khan's  Palace, 
some  are  mounted  on  carriages,  and  some  not. 

The  revenue  of  the  Government  has  materially 
fallen  off.  This  is  partly  to  be  attributed  to  the 
migration  of  the  Kirghizes,  the  secession  of  the 
Turkmen,  and  a  general  decline  of  trade — the 
Customs  dues  forming  at  one  time  a  considerable 
item  of  revenue.  The  Mehter  has  charge  of  the 
treasury,  and  in  case  of  a  deficiency,  the  Khan 
borrovps  of  the  merchants. 

The  Russian  goods  usually  found  within  the 
bazaars,  are  Russia-leather  (Yufta),  iron,  cast 
and  wrought,  steel,  copper  sheets,  needles,  and 
cloth  of  inferior  quahty  ;  the  English  wares  brought 
from  Persia  are  cottons  and  muslins.  Barter- 
trade  is  not  known,  all  goods  being  paid  for  in 
ready  money. 

Land  in  the  Khanat  of  Khiva  is  held  by  families 
and  tribes  from  time  immemorial ;  that  Avhich  is 
not  claimed  by    any  one,    is    given  away  by  the 


Astronomical  Position  of  Khiva.  45 

Khan  in  the  form  of  rewards.  Cultivation  is 
attended  with  great  expense  and  trouble.  The 
land  first  requires  irrigation,  after  which  it  must  be 
covered  with  clay  and  black  soil,  before  it  can  be 
made  productive.  The  Khan  often  farms  out  his 
grounds,  receiving  a  third  of  their  produce. 
Industrial  and  manufactiiring  pursuits  are  carried 
on  in  the  towns,  and  especially  at  Yany-Urgendj. 
A  detailed  account  of  the  capital  is  to  be  found  in 
the  works  of  Danilevski  and  Basiniefe,  who 
sojourned  at  Khiva  in  1841.  The  town  since 
their  visit  has  undergone  but  little  change. 

During  the  stay  of  the  Mission,  the  position  of 
the  town  was  determined  astronomically  by  Capt. 
Mojaiski,  whose  observations  were  checked  by 
M.  Struve.     It  is  as  foUows : — 

41°  22' 40"  North  latitude, 

60°    2'  57'  longitude  East  of  Greenwich. 


CHAPTER    III. 

(reneral   View  of  Dznngaria,  by   Capf.  Valikhanof. 

A  VEIL  of  mystery  has  hitherto  hung  over  Central 
Asia,— a  region  pregnant  with  interest  to  mankind. 
Notwithstanding  its  proximity  to  the  outlying 
possessions  of  two  great  European  powers — Eng- 
land and  Russia, — the  greater  portion  of  this 
country  still  remains  in  many  respects  inaccessible 
to  Europeans.  The  learned  Russian  Geographer, 
Semenof,  in  the  second  volume  of  his  translation 
of  Carl  Ritter's  "  Erdkunde  von  Asien,"  arrives 
at  the  conclusion  that  Central  Asia  has  not  been 
explored  to  a  greater  extent  than  the  interior 
of  Africa.  Indeed  the  conflicting  and  contradic- 
tory data  existing  in  our  geographical  literature 
with  regard  to  Central  Asia,  render  this  region,  if 


Forlorn  Condition  of  Central  Afsia.  47 

not  altogether  a  terra  incognita  at  all  events  a 
difficult  scientific  puzzle,  while  at  the  same  time 
our  knowledge  of  the  Central  Asiatic  races  is  very 
confused  and  incomplete. 

Central  Asia,  in  its  present  stage  of  social  organ- 
ization, presents  a  truly  mournful  spectacle ;  her 
present  stage  of  development  being,  so  to  speak,  a 
sort  of  pathological  crisis.  The  whole  country, 
without  exaggeration,  is  nothing  but  one  vast  waste, 
intersected  here  and  there  by  abandoned  aqueducts, 
canals  and  wells.  The  desolate  sandy  plains,  dotted 
occasionally  with  ruins  and  overgrown  with  ugly 
prickly  shrubs  and  tamarisks,  is  wandered  over  by 
herds  of  wild  asses,  and  hardly  less  shy  and  timid 
saigaks.  In  the  midst  of  this  Sahara,  along  the 
banks  of  the  rivers  occur  several  small  oases,  shaded 
by  the  poplar,  elm,  and  mulberry ;  while  nothing 
intervenes  to  break  the  monotony  of  the  scene, 
save  here  and  there  badly  cultivated  rice- 
fields  and  plantations  of  cotton,  diversified  by  occa- 
sional vine-yards  and  orchards,  abandoned  by  the 
lazy  and  improvident  population  to  the  care  of 
Allah.  In  the  centre  of  these  oases,  and  con- 
structed above  the  numerous  remains  of  ancient 
cities,  long  since  mouldering  beneath  the  soil,  stand 
the  miserable  mud   hovels    of    a  wild    and   bar- 


48  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

barous  race,  demoralized  by  Islamism,  and  reduced 
almost  to  idiocy  by  the  political  and  religious 
despotism  of  their  native  rulers  on  the  one  hand,  and 
the  arbitrary  exactions  of  the  Chinese  police  on  the 
other. 

Ignorance  and  poverty  reign  supreme  in  Mavero- 
Innahar,  the  modern  Bokhara,  Khiva  and  Kokan, 
which  formed  the  richest  and  most  enlightened 
region  of  the  East  in  the  fourteenth  and  fifteenth 
centuries.  The  libraries  of  Samarkand,  Tashkend 
Ferganah  (in  the  Khanat  of  Kokan),  Khiva  and 
Bokhara,  vi'ith  the  observatory  at  Samarkand, 
have  irrecoverably  perished  under  the  merciless 
hand  of  Tartar  vandahsm,  which  consigned  to 
perdition  all  knowledge  save  that  of  a  rehgious 
character.  Even  the  monuments  of  a  bygone  era 
of  enlightenment  and  culture,  have  fallen  victims  to 
the  fanatical  zeal  of  the  Mullahs,  who  regarded  them 
in  the  light  of  Towers  of  Babel,  or  as  sinful  rivalries 
between  mankind  and  the  creative  spirit  of  Allah. 
The  minarets,  schools,  tombs  of  Mahometan  saints, 
and  the  Munar  tower,  from  which  criminals  were 
precipitated,  have  alone  survived  the  general  ruin. 

Central  Asiatic  rulers  of  the  present  day  no  longer 
indite  verses  and  memoirs,  nor  do  they  compile 
astronomical  tables  as  their  ancestors  did.     These 


Bridal  Anni^cmeiits  of  Ihi'  Bulcni.  49 

pursuits  are  superseded  by  solemn  daily  processions 
to  the  mosque,  where  they  hold  pious  communion 
with  the  Mullahs;  and,  returning  home,  pass  the 
remainder  of  the  day  in  the  grossest  and  most 
groveUing  sensuality.  Another  favourite  method 
of  killing  time  is  afforded  them  at  the  public 
arena,  where  they  may  witness  the  spectacle  of 
two  infuriated  rams,  specially  trained  for  the  pur- 
pose, butting  at  each  other.  Here  they  linger  till 
one  of  the  combatants  is  disposed  of  with  a  frac- 
tured skull,  at  which  exciting  crisis  of  the  enter- 
tainment, and  in  the  thirst  for  blood  it  excites^ 
they  administer  to  their  generals  forty  blows  on  the 
back  and  a  similar  quantum  on  the  belly. 

The  other  portion  of  Central  Asia — Little  Bok- 
hara— is  in  a  condition  hardly  less  pitiable.  Here 
we  find,  notwithstanding  the  prevalence  of  Islamism, 
religious  toleration,  independence  of  the  female  sex, 
and  no  small  development  of  municipal  institutions, 
a  country  impoverished  and  desolated  under  the  yoke 
of  Chinese  censorship  and  military  mandarinism. 
Barbarism,  despotism  and  decay  prevail  throughout 
the  land.  It  is  natural,  therefore,  that  under  such 
a  state  of  civilization,  or  rather  in  the  total  absence 
of  it,  the  attempts  of  Russia  and  England  to  become 
better  acquainted  with  their  coy  neighbours,  should 


50  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

have  been  attended  with  so  Uttle  success  hitherto, 
and  occasionally  with  such  mournful  results. 

In  the  latter  part  of  1859,  accompanying  a 
caravan  in  the  guise  of  a  Kokan  merchant,  I  suc- 
ceeded in  reaching  Kashgar,  which,  since  the  visit 
of  the  celebrated  Marco  Polo,  in  1 272,  and  that  of 
the  Jesuit  Goez,  in  1603,  had  only  been  reached 
by  two  Europeans — one  a  German,  an  officer  in  the 
East  India  Company's  service,  whose  name  is  now 
unknown,  and  who  has  left  an  extremely  interesting 
itinerary  and  description  of  his  journey  ;*  the  other 

*  In  a  paper  on  the  Pamir  and  upper  course  of  the  Oxus,  read 
last  year  before  the  Russian  Geographical  Society,  by  M.  Veninkhof, 
he  says  •. — 

"The  chaos  of  our  geographical  knowledge  relating  to  the  Pamir 
table-land  and  the  Bolor  was  so  great,  that  the  celebrated  geogra- 
pher Zimmerman,  worlcing  under  the  superintendence  of  Ritter,  was 
able  to  produce  only  a  very  confused  and  utterly  incomprehensible 
map  of  this  region.  The  connecting  link  was  wanting;  it  was 
necessary  that  some  one  sliould  carry  out  the  plan  conceived  by  the 
Russian  Government  in  the  beginning  oF  this  century,  by  visiting 
and  describing  the  country.  Fortunately,  such  an  additional  source 
of  information  has  been  found — nay,  e\'en  two,  which  mutually  cor- 
roborate and  amplify  each  other,  although  they  have  nothing  further 
in  common  between  them. 

"  1  here  allude  to  the  '  Travels  through  Upper  Asia,  from  Kash- 
gar, Tashbalyk,  Bolor,  Badakshan,  Vakhan,  Kokan,  Turkestan,  to 
the  Kirghiz  Steppe,  and  back  to  Cashmere,  through  Samarkand  and 
Yarkend,'  and  to  the  Chinese  Itinerary,  translated  by  Klaproth,  in 
1S5 1,  leading  from  Ka.shgar  to  Yarkend,  Northern  India,  Dairim, 
Yabtuar,  Badakshan,  Bolor,  Vakhan  and  Kokan,  as  far  as  the  Kara- 
tau  mountains.  The  enumeration  alone  of  these  places  must,  I 
should  imagine,  excite  the  irresistible  curiosity  of  all  wlio  have  made 


Si(fferin(/s,  Sfc.  of  European  Traoellers.       51 

the  learned  and  much-lamented  Adolphe  Schlagint- 
weit.  The  former  was  beaten  so  unmercifully  with 
bamboos  at  Kashgar,  that  he  could  not  sit  his 
horse  for  two  days  after ;  the  latter  had  his  head 
struck  off  and  placed  on  the  apex  of  a  pyra- 
mid formed  of  human  skulls — a  custom  which,  it 
should  seem,  distinguishes  the  Bokharians  equally 
with  their  not  more  savage  brethren  on  the  coasts 
of  Africa. 

Chinese  Kashgar  is  one  of  the  district  towns 
in  the  province  of  Nan-lu  (southern  country),  and 
may  be  said  to  have  enjoyed,  ever  since  the  days 

the  geography  of  Asia  their  study.  These  fresh  sources  of  informa- 
tion are  truly  of  the  highest  importance.  As  regards  the  '  Travels,' 
it  is  to  be  inferred  from  the  preface,  and  from  certain  observations 
in  the  narrative,  that  the  author  was  a  German,  an  agent  of  the 
East  India  Company ;  despatched  in  the  beginning  of  this,  ,or  at  the 
latter  part  of  the  last  century,  to  purchase  horses  for  the  British 
army.  The  original  account  forms  a  magnificent  manuscript  work, 
in  the  German  language,  accompanied  by  forty  sketches  of  the 
country  traversed.  The  text  has  also  been  translated  into  Erench 
in  a  separate  manuscript,  and  the  maps  worked  into  one  itinerary  in 
an  admirable  style.  The  Christian  name  of  ihis  traveller — George 
Ludwig  Von — appears  over  the  preface ;  but  the  surname  has  been 
erased.  Klaproth's  Itinerary  is  so  far  valuable  as  the  physical  de- 
tails are  extremely  circumstantial ;  almost  every  mountain  is  laid 
down,  and  care  taken  to  indicate  whether  it  is  wooded  or  snow- 
capped, while  equal  care  is  taken  to  show  whether  the  inhabitants  are 
nomads  or  a  stationary  people.  Ruins,  bridges,  and  villages  are  also 
intelligibly  designated,  so  that,  although  the  same  scale  is  not  pre- 
served throughout,  its  value,  lucidity,  and  minuteness  are  not  tliere- 
by  deteriorated." 

E  2 


5i  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

of  the  Ptolemies,  great  repute  for  caravans,  parti- 
cularly thiough  its  extensive  tea-trade.  Kashgar 
stands  in  the  same  relation  to  Central  Asia  that 
Kiakhta  does  to  Siberia,  and  Shanghai  and  Canton 
to  other  European  nations.  This  town,  moreover, 
is  famed  in  the  East  for  the  glovv^ing  charms  of  its 
"  chaukens," — young  women,  with  whom  the  tra- 
veller may  readily  form  an  alliance  for  a  certain 
number  of  years,  or  for  the  period  of  his  stay,  be  it 
longer  or  shorter.  It  also  enjoys  great  celebrity 
for  its  musicians,  dancers,  and  "  janissary  hashish."* 
Owing  to  these  attractions,  Kashgar  is  the  resort  of 
Asiatic  merchants  from  all  parts  of  the  continent. 
Here  can  be  met  the  Thibetan  with  the  Persian, 
the  Hindoo  with  the  Volga  Tartar,  Afghans,  Ar- 
menians, Jews,  Gipseys,  and  runaway  Siberian 
Cossacks. 

Of  late,  the  town  has  obtained  a  notoriety  of 
a  different  character.  Here  human  beings  have 
been  daily  slaughtered  like  barn-door  fowls,  the 
skulls  of  the  victims  being  disposed  in  regular 
layers  till  they  formed  towers.  In  the  words  of 
a  popular  song,  "  It  is  difficult  to  keep  a  horse  in 
Kashgar  when  hay  is  twelve  puis  the  bundle — still 

*  Hashish — an  extract  made  from  Cannabis  saliva,  which  has  at 
once  stupefying  and  exciting  properties. 


Oppressions  of  the  Chinese.  63 

more    difficult  is  it  to  keep  the  head  on    one's 
shoulders."      The    Hodjas,    descendants    of  the 
former    Kashgar  rulers,  in  whose  favour  several 
sanguinary  insurrections  had  latterly  taken  place, 
do  not  vent  their  fury  so  much  on  the  Chinese,  as 
on  their  own  subjects  the  Kashgarians.     One,  for 
instance,   is  put  to  death  for  having  served  the 
Chinese  Government,  another  for  yawning  in  the 
presence  of  his  ruler,  or  on  similar  trivial  pretexts. 
The  Chinese,  when  they  succeed  in  expelling  the 
Hodjas,  notwithstanding  their  military  inefficiency, 
inaugurate  their  triumphs  by  fleecing  the  people, 
destroying  their  cornfields,  seizing  the  women  and 
desecrating  the  mosques  and  tomb.      They  then 
hold  a  general  flogging  tribunal,  whose  operations 
are   conducted  with  great  ceremony  and  refined 
cruelty. 

When  I  arrived  at  Kashgar,  I  found  the  Chinese 
reposing  after  the  infliction  of  these  multifarious 
tortures.  The  road  leading  to  the  gates  of  the 
town  was  bordered  on  both  sides  by  a  succession 
of  small  wicker  cages,  in  which  were  displayed  the 
heads  of  the  natives  who  had  sufiered  execution. 
The  town,  however,  was  relapsing  into  a  quiet 
state.  The  native  authorities,  newly  established  by 
the  Chinese,  were  riding  about  in  the  full  dignity 


54  2'rarel.s  in  Ccnfral  jhia. 

of  mandarin  caps,  and  castigating  the  pedestrians 
who  were  not  sufficiently  alert  in  making  way  for 
them.  Intercourse  was  resumed  with  Kokan ;  the 
Kokanian  Consul  had  been  residing  more  than  a 
month  in  the  town,  and  the  Bokharian  and  Kokanian 
caravans  were  rapidly  filling  the  empty  caravan- 
serais. The  arrival  of  our  party  created  a  great  sen- 
sation. Before  we  reached  the  town  the  Kirghizes 
had  spread  a  rumour  of  the  advance  of  a  Russian 
caravan,  consisting  of  500  camels,  while  in  truth  it 
only  numbered  sixty.  They  had  also  declared  that 
it  was  transporting  boxes  of  destructive  projectiles, 
and  gave  the  name  of  "  board  of  iron "  to  the 
leader,  in  consequence  of  his  possessing  an  iron 
bedstead ;  to  this  they  added  that  he  was  a  Rus- 
sian, and  of  suspicious  character.  The  Asiatic  is 
the  most  gullible  of  human  beings — there  is  no 
al)surdity  that  he  will  not  swallow,  and  the  more 
extravagant  the  rumour,  the  blinder  is  his  credulity. 
The  Chinese  form  no  exception  in  this  respect  to 
their  Semitic  brethren  of  Central  Asia,  as  it  proved 
in  our  case.  Luckily  the  Kokan  Consul  knew  the 
leader  of  our  caravan,  and  also  some  of  the  mer- 
chants composing  it,  but  it  was  owing  to  this  cir- 
cumstance alone  that  we  were  permitted  to  enter 
the  town. 


Explorations  of  M.  Semcjiof.  55 

I  shall  not  dwell  on  the  cross-examinations,  an- 
noyances, and  trials,  to  which  the  caravan  was  sub- 
jected on  the  part  of  the  Chinese  Government  aiid 
local  authorities,  but  shall  confine  myself  to  a  rela- 
tion of  my  travels  and  stay  among  the  Dikoka- 
menni  horde. 

TheNorthern  slope  of  the  Thian-Shanhas  recently 
been  explored  from  the  Russian  side,  but  M.  Se- 
men of,  a  Pellow  of  the  Imperial  Russian  Geogra- 
phical Society,  succeeded  in  penetrating  only  as 
far  as  the  sources  of  the  River  Narym,  one  of  the 
affluents  of  the  Jaxartes,  or  Syr-Daria.  I  crossed 
the  Thian-Shan  range  in  two  directions,  and  ex- 
amined the  neighbourhood  of  Kashgar  and  Jen- 
giskehr,  or  Yany-shahr,  to  the  sandy  ridge  stretch- 
ing between  the  latter  town  and  Yarkend.  Political 
disturbances  in  Kokan,  terminating  in  the  expulsion 
of  the  former  Khan,  and  spreading  to  Kashgar, 
prevented  me  from  visiting  Yarkend,  the  largest  and 
most  populous  town  in  Chinese  Turkestan. 

My  travels  may  be  divided  into  two  periods. 
The  first  embraces  my  route  through  Dzungaria, 
that  is,  the  Semiretsk  (Seven  rivers),  and  Trans-Ili 
regions,  and  so  to  Lake  Issyk-kul.  The  physical 
aspect  of  these  localities  is  already  well  known 
from  the  excellent  surveys  made  by  the  officers  of 


56  Trnrch  hi  Cc/ifrrtI  Afsia. 

the  Siberian  Staff,  and  they  have  been  scientifically 
explored  by  MM.  Schrenk,  Vlangali,  Semenof,  and 
Golubef.  The  information,  however,  furnished  by 
these  travellers  has  been  limited  to  the  physical 
geography  of  the  region,  without  touching  at  all 
on  its  ethnography.  My  first  visit  to  Dzungaria 
was  in  1856,  and  I  took  part  in  the  first  expedition 
organized  by  Colonel  Khomentovski  to  Lake  Issyk- 
kul,  passing  subsequently  three  months  in  Kuldja. 
My  travels  in  Dzungaria  occupied  in  all  five 
months,  during  which  time  I  succeeded  in  travers- 
ing this  region  throughout  its  whole  breadth  and 
length,  from  Ala-kul  to  the  Thian-Shan. 

I  shall  only  dwell  here  on  what  has  been  omitted 
or  not  noticed  by  travellers  who  preceded  me,  giv- 
ing a  short  account  of  the  ~Dz\mg&n&\i  fauna,  and 
of  the  antiquities  and  inhabitants  of  the  country. 
The  flora  of  Dzungaria  is  more  or  less ,  known, 
Alexander  Schrenk  having  devoted  much  time  to 
its  study,  and  produced  a  general  account  of  the 
vegetation  of  this  country,  in  an  interesting  article 
inserted  in  Helmerscm  and  Baehr's  "  Beitrage  zur 
Kenntniss  des  Russischen  Reiches,"  for  1840. 

Mr.  Semenof  has  also  directed  attention  to  the  ve- 
getation of  the  Thian-Shan,  and  has,  I  believe,  a 
very  rich  hcrhariinn  collected  on  that  range.     Dr. 


Fauna  and  Flora  of  Bzungaria.  57 

Tatarinof  compiled  a  list  of  plants  identified  by 
him  when  travelling  with  M.  Kovalevski  to  Kuldja, 
and  which  appeared  in  M.  Vlangali's  work.  With 
regard,  however,  to  the  fauna  of  Dzungaria,  not  a 
single  article  has,  so  far  as  I  know,  been  published. 

Lakes  Ala-kul  and  Balkhash  formed,  most  pro- 
bably at  no  distant  period,  one  common  water  basin. 
Even  at  the  present  time,  during  the  spring  inun- 
dations, Ala-kul  lake,  according  to  the  testimony 
of  the  Kirghizes,  communicates  indirectly  with  that 
of  Balkhash  by  a  marshy,  saline  belt  of  land. 
This  belt  forms,  in  Mr.  Semenof's  opinion,  the  na- 
tural boundary  of  the  Kirghiz  Steppe,  beyond 
which  Central  Asia  commences,  together,  with  a 
new  soil  and  new  flora  andL  fauna. 

As  far  as  I  can  perceive,  Dzungaria  is  not 
distinguished  by  any  marked  peculiarity  of  vegeta- 
tion. The  flora  of  the  plains  is  the  same  as  that 
in  the  Southern  portions  of  the  Kirghiz  Steppe, 
while  that  of  the  mountains  resembles,  with  a  few 
exceptions,  ihe  flora  of  the  Altai. 

Zoologically,  however,  certain  differences  are 
perceptible. 

With  regard  to  the  distribution  of  animals, 
Dzungaria  may  be  divided  into  three  zones,  Alpine, 
Sub-Alpine,  and  that  of  the  plains. 


58  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

In  the  mountain  zone  of  the  Dzungarian  Ala-tau, 
and  of  the  Thian-shan,  are  to  be  found  mammals 
indigenous  to  the  mountainous  parts  of  Southern 
Siberia,  and  of  the  Kirghiz  Steppe ;  such  as  the 
stag  {Cervus  elaphus),  horned  goat  {Ibex  Sibericus), 
arkaz,  or  mountain  sheep  {ovis  arc/ali),  the  wolf, 
foxes  black  and  red,  the  white-breasted  martin, 
&c.  &c.  Besides  these,  a  reddish-brown  wolf  is 
spoken  of,  very  much  resembling  a  dog,  and  called 
by  the  Kirghizes  "  chi-buri."  Of  birds  of  prey 
the  commonest  species  is  the  vulture  {Gi/paetus 
harbatus,  vultur  fidvus,  vultur  meleagris),  and 
sometimes  the  golden  eagle  {Aquila  chrysaiitos),  the 
falcon  {Falco  peregrinus,  and  Falco  Subbuteo  or 
Hobby),  the  hawk  {Astur) ;  but  the  ger-falcon 
{Falco  caudicans)  is  never  seen  here,  nor  did 
I  come  across  any  nocturnal  birds  of  prey  ;  in  con- 
firmation of  which  I  may  mention  that  the  Kirghizes 
assert  that  they  are  rarely  met  with.  Of  the 
ffallinacea  order,  the  grey  grouse  (closely  resem- 
bling the  fefrao  canca.sict/s),  the  partridge  {PerdricV 
saxatilis),  and  the  rail  are  found  in  the  mountains. 

In  the  Sub-Alpine  zone  we  meet  with  the  tiger, 

panther,    Avild-boar,    antelope,    Djeiran    {Antdope 

gilttiirom,   Pall :)  porcupine,   pheasant,   {Phasianus 

Colchiciis),      bustard    {otis     tarda),     turtle-dove, 


Ornitliology  of  Dzimgaria.  59 

{Colitmba  csnas  vel  tiirtur).  All  these  are  met  with 
also  in  the  zone  of  the  plain.  The  woods  of  the 
Sub-Alpine  zone  abound  with  singing  birds, 
{Passerini).  The  following  are  some  of  the  varieties 
I  noticed  : — Corvus  dauricus ;  Coracias  garrula,  L.  ; 
Merops  persica,  Pallas  (probably  the  Cormis  Paitderi 
of  Fish)  ;  Ticliodroma  muralis,  L.  ;  Sitta  Uralensis ; 
Hirundo  Alpestris ;  Hirundo  Lagopoda;  Partis 
Slbericus  ;  Parus  cyanus ;  Fringilla  orienfalis  ;  Fr. 
arctus  ;  Turdus  Sibericus  ;  Tardus  f meatus  ) 
Pyrrhula  rhodoMamys ;  P  pusiUa;  P  Siberica; 
Fmberiza  rustica ;  E.  Pittyornus ;  E.  brumiceps ; 
Coccothraustes  speculigerus ;  Accentor  Alfaieiis ; 
A.  atrogularis ;  A.  montanellus ;  Clnchis  leuco- 
gaster.  Waterfowl  are  very  scarce  both  in  the 
mountain  and  desert  zones. 

The  wide  tracts  of  sand,  which  extend  between 
Balkash  and  the  mountain  zone,  are  merely  con- 
tinuations of  the  arenaceous  Kirghiz  plains  of 
Khara-kush  and  Khan-tau,  and  present  no  cha-- 
ract eristic  features.  They  are  dotted  with  the 
same  saline  patches  which  are  called  "  Kaks " 
in  the  Kirghiz ,  Steppe ;  but  nevertheless  the 
"  Kulans  "  and  "  Saigaks,"*  which  fill  the  barren 

*  Saiga.     Chevre   Sauvage  (que  Pallas  appelle  cervus  pygargus, 
et  M.  Eversman,  antipola  Saiga).    Les  troupeaux  de  oes  aiiimaux, 


60  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

waste  and  sands  on  the  river  Chu,  never  pass  to 
the  eastward  of  the  meridian  of  It-Kechu.  Some 
years  ago  a  cold  season  forced  these  animals  to 
migrate  to  the  Trans-Ili  region,  and  seek  pasturage 
high  up  in  the  Hi  valley ;  but  with  the  spring,  they 
returned  to  their  native  plains.  It  would,  therefore, 
appear  that  Dzungaria  is  the  natural  boundary, 
separating  the  central- Asiatic  "  Kulan  "  from  the 
"  Djigitai "  of  the  Mongolian  Gobi,  and  the  limit 
of  distribution  of  the  Saigak — the  antelope  of  .the 
depressed  wastes — as  also  of  the  "  Djeiran  "  of  the 
mountain  table-lands.  Th,e  natives  have  long 
since  observed  this.     The  Kirghizes  relate  that  the 

sont  singulierement  nombreux  dans  les  Steppes ;  on  aompte  quel- 
quefois,  dit-on,  jusqu'a  dix  mille  tetes  dans  un  seul  troupeau. 
.  .  .  Le  museau  de  la  Saiga  ressemble  a  un  oignon ;  Ses  narines  sont 
larges ;  son  regard  n'est  pas  toujours  pnr, vu  qu'il  se  forme  quelquefois 
des  taies  sur  les  yeux ;  mais  elle  a  I'odorat  le  plus  fin,  aussi  sent-elle  de 
loin  I'approclie  d'une  betefauveou  celle  de  Thomme.  Elle  n'est  gnere 
plus  haute  de  taille  que  la  chevre  domestique ;  mais  son  poil  est 
doux,  court  et  ordinairement  jaune  fonce.  Ses  comes  sont  petites  et 
roides,  ses  jambes  minces  et  seclies  ;  la  rapidite  de  sa  course  est 
'  faite  pour  etonner.  C'est  par  cette  faoulte  et  par  ses  hauts  bonds 
renouvel(5s  coup-sur-coup,  qu'clle  echappe  a  ses  ennemis.  Au  reste 
il  est  fort  aisc,  si  on  la  prend  jeune,  de  la  bien  apprivoiser.  De  touts 
les  herbages  dont  elle  se  nourrit,  elle  prefere  1' absinthe  blanche  et 
les  algues  marines.  La  chair  en  est  succulente,  mais  quelquefois 
on  trouve  des  vers  dans  son  epine.  Ces  vers,'_l'exces  des  chaleurs  en  ete 
ct  les  insectes  qui  atfaqnent  enfoule  I'interieur  de  ses  naseaux,  sont 
cause  qu'aux  mois  de  juin  et  de  juiUet  elle  souffre,  et  ne  vit  plus 
que  dans  un  etat  d'inquietude  visible.  .  .  .  Levsohine  sur  les  Kirghiz 
Kazaks.     Page  75. 


Exthjjation  of  a  lohole  race  of  Deer.         61 

traces  of  deep  pits,  which  are  to  be  found  along 
the  base  of  the  Dzungarian-Alataii,  are  those  of 
excavations  made  by  Khan  Djani-Bek  fo}'  destroying 
the  "  Kulans."  A  herd  of  these  animals,  it  is  said, 
enticed  among  them,  a  horse,  mounted  by  a  young 
son  of  the  Khan,  which  resulted  in  the  death  of  the 
boy.  The  Khan,  exasperated  by  the  loss,  had  a 
trench  dug  from  Tarbagati  to  Hi,  into  which  aU  the 
Dzungarian  "  Kulans  "  were  driven  ;  a  male  and 
female  alone  escaped  beyond  Balkash,  and  left  a 
warning  to  their  posterity  against  entering  the 
country  that  had  proved  so  fatal  to  their  species. 

Russian  Dzungaria,  as  at.  present  constituted,  has 
exercised  quite  a  classical  influence  in  the  historical 
fate  of  the  Central-Asiatic  races.  Abul  Ghazi 
says  that  Abuldjor  Khan,  son  of  Japhet,  founder  of 
the  Turk  tribes,  roamed  along  the  rivers  Talas  and 
Chu,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake  Issyk-kul.  Erom 
Chinese  sources,  we  know  that  all  the  tribes  who 
migrated  from  the  High  Gobi,  were  detained  and 
settled  down  in  these  parts,  until  they  were 
expelled  by  stronger  races.  Russian  Dzungaria 
presents,  in  reality,  every  convenience  for  a  nomad 
life.  The  upper  mountain  valleys  served  as  cool 
camping  grounds  during  the  sultry  summer,  while 
the  cattle  grazed  at  ease  on  the  rich  pasture,  un- 


63  Trarels  in  Cciifral  A><ia. 

molested  by  the  gad-fly.  On  the  approach  of 
autumn,  the  wandering  population  descended  to 
the  lower  ravines,  where  they  gathered  their  corn  ; 
while  in  the  winter  they  sheltered  themselves  in  the 
caverns  of  the  river  banks,  or  among  the  hollows  of 
the  sandy  hillocks  of  the  Balkash  steppe.  Fuel 
was  likewise  found  in  abundance,  the  salcsaul  of  the 
plains  yielding  a  constant  supply. 

Notwithstanding  the  prevalence  of  nomad  habits 
among  the  population,  Dzungaria  always  possessed 
a  certain  proportion  of  settled  inhabitants.  The 
first  historical  record  of  this  mode  of  life,  occurs  in 
Chinese  works,  relating  in  particular  to  the  town 
of  Chigu,  which,  it  must  be  presumed,  was  situated 
on  the  eastern  shore  of  Lake  Issyk-kul,  and  was 
built  by  Chinese  workmen  for  the  Kimmi  of  Ussun. 
Tn  the  Middle  Ages  a  settled  mode  of  life  prevailed 
to  a  great  extent  in  these  regions,  particularly  along 
the  Hi  valley.  The  towns  of  Almalyk  (now  a 
Turkestan  village),  Khanaka  and  Kainak  (which 
still  exist),  and  Almaty  (where  Fort  Vernoe  now 
stands),  were  renowned  for  the  extent  of  their 
trade,  and  were  chief  stations  on  the  high  road 
traversed  by  the  Genoese  traders  proceeding  to 
China,  as  well  as  by  the  Kipchak  ambassadors  on 
their  propitiatory  missions  to  the  great  Khan. 


Propagation  and  Suppression  of  Christianity.   ()3 

It  is,  moreover,  worthy  of  special  notice  that 
many  Nestorian  and  monophysitic  congregations 
formerly  existed  in  this  part  of  Asia,  and  that 
Syrian  Jacobians,  according  to  the  evidence  afforded 
by  the  Catalan  map,  had  a  monastery,  containing 
the  relics  of  St.  Matthias,  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake 
Issyk-kul.  Christianity,  indeed,  was  so  widely 
diffused  here,  that  it  experienced  some  persecution ; 
but  by  the  sixteenth  century  there  were  several 
Mussulman  settlements  at  Issyk-kul.  These  facts 
strongly  interested  me ;  but,  unfortunately,  I  was 
not  able  to  make  any  further  researches,  as  the 
Kirghizes  had  demolished  the  last  of  the  buildings 
that  had,  up  to  that  >^eriod,  escaped  destruction, 
mistaking  them  for  Lama  temples. 

A  Chinese,  who  visited  Lake  Issyk-kul  in  1820, 
told  me  that  he  had  seen  in  those  parts  a  large  idol 
carved  out  of  a  block  of  stone.  For  my  own  part, 
I  did  not  stumble  on  any  traces  of  antiquities  of 
this  description,  though  I  found  evidences  of 
the  sedentary  pursuits  of  a  portion,  at  least, 
of  the  population  nearly  throughout  the  whole 
of  Russian  Dzungaria,  and  was  enabled  to  collect 
some  traditions  current  among  the  people,  confirm- 
atory of  these  evidences.  I  hkewise  obtained  some 
gold  coins  and  ornaments,  which   were  turned  up 


64  Traoels  in  Central  Asia. 

among  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  town  of  Almalyk. 
Some  remains  of  "  Chud  "  spears,  which  I  found 
in  the  heart  of  Central  Asia,  led  to  the  inference 
that  mining  was  not  in  those  ages  exclusively 
practised  by  the  Finnish  race. 

Among  the  different  races  that  inhabited  Central 
Asia  during  the  Han  dynasty,  Chinese  records 
mention  six  tribes,  which  were  distinguished  by 
blue  eyes  and  reddish  hair,  and  whom  Klaproth,  in 
his  "  Tableaux  Historiques  de  L'Asie,"  and  Abel 
Remusat,  in  his  "  Recherches  sur  les  Langues 
Tartares,"  classed  as  tribes  of  Hindo-Gothic  ex- 
traction. To  these,  among  others,  belonged  the 
Hakasis,  or  modern  Kirghizes,  who  excited  the 
astonishment  of  the  Chinese  by  their  strange  types 
of  face,  resembling  horses  more  than  anything  else. 

At  the  present  time,  Dzungaria  is  inhabited  by 
two  peoples,  viz :  Buruts,  or  Kirghizes  Proper,  and 
Kirghiz-Kaisaks  of  the  Great  Horde,  known  under 
the  collective  appellation  of  Uisuns.  Among  these 
there  is  a  tribe  called  the  Red  Uisuns,  who  assert 
themselves  to  be  the  remnants  of  a  great  and 
powerful  nation. 

The  Buruts  and  Uisuns,  it  is  to  be  observed, 
must  not  be  confounded,  as  they  are  two  distinct 
races.     The  celebrated  Asiatic  travellers,  Meyen- 


Et]inolo(/y  of  Central  Asiatic  Races.         65 

dorf  and  Pere  Hyacinthe,  strove  hard,  in  their  day, 
to  establish  this  fact ;  but  up  to  the  present  time 
no  attention  has  been  paid  to  the  distinction. 
Even  Von  Humboldt  and  Ritter  erred  on  this  sub- 
ject. They  imagined  that  the  Buruts  formed  the 
great  Kaisak  Horde,  and  that  this  horde  should  be 
distinguished  from  the  Little  and  Middle  Hordes. 
This,  however,  was  a  grave  mistake  on  the  part  of 
those  revered  seers  of  science.  The  Great,  Middle, 
and  Little  Kirghiz  -  Kaisak  hordes  form  one 
"  Cossack "  family,  distinct  from  that  branch 
of  the  Kirghizes,  called  Buruts  by  the  Chinese, 
and  Dikokamenni  by  the  Russians.  These  two 
family  groups  differ  in  language,  extraction,  and 
customs. 

From  the  form  of  the  skull,  and  the  type  of  the 
features,  the  Central  Asiatic  races  may  be  divided 
into  Persians,  Mongols,  and  Turks.  The  Persians 
are  again  subdivided  into  the  mountain 
"  Galcha,"  and  Tadjiks  of  the  plains,  both  of 
which  must  be  classed  with  the  Caucasian 
race.  The  Tadjiks  have  dark  complexions  and 
hair,  while  fair  people  are  met  with  among  the 
"  Galcha." 

The  Kalmyks  may  be  taken  as  representatives  of 
the  Mongohari  type  in  Central  Asia ;  they  have 


66  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

dark  hair,  olive  complexions,  oblique  eyes,  flat 
faces,  high  cheek-bones,  thin  lips  and  flat  noses. 
The  remaining  races,  such  as  the  Mongolo-Turk, 
and  those  of  Turko-Pinnish  extraction,  present  a 
strange  admixture  of  types  and  shades  of  com- 
plexion. One  remarks  among  them  fair  men,  with 
the  Mongolian  angle  of  face,  and  oblique  eyes,  with 
a  regular  Roman  nose.  Generally  speaking,  how- 
ever, in  the  physical  appearance  of  these  tribes, 
there  is  observable  a  mixture  of  the  Caucasian  race 
with  the  Mongolian. 

The  second  period  of  my  journey  finds  me  in 
the  upper  course  of  the  Narym  river,  the  chief 
affluent  of  the  Syr-Daria,  which  ibrmed  the  limit  of 
M.  Semenof's  travels  in  this  meridian.  Before  me 
lay  stretched  a  real  terra  incognita,  the  mysteries 
of  which  had  never  hitherto  been  explored  by  civi- 
lized travellers. 

Notwithstanding  the  great  risk,  I  constantly 
kept  a  tolerably  full  diary  during  my  travels, 
especially  whilst  staying  at  Kashgar.  The  friendly 
footing  on  which  I  stood  with  the  natives,  the 
learned,  and  the  officials,  and  the  frequent  excur- 
sions I  made  in  the  neighbourhood,  enabled  me  to 
form  an  accurate  estimate  of  this  remarkable  region. 
Through  my  acqiiaintance  with  merchants  of  dif- 


Uigur  Luiigaage  unknown  in  Europe.  67 

ferent  tribes  and  from  various  countries,  I  procured 
a  eoUection  of  itineraries  with  statistical,  ethno- 
graphical and  commercial  notes  relating  to  the 
neighbouring  countries.  Mixing,  moreover,  con- 
tinually with  merchants,  and  living  in  the 
caravanserai,  I  became  accurately  acquainted  with 
the  commerce  of  Central  Asia,  the  articles  forming 
the  caravan  trade,  and  in  particular  with  the  com- 
modities most  in  demand  at  Kashgar. 

The  information  collected  during  my  journey 
consists  firstly,  of  my  own  personal  observations ; 
secondly,  of  oral  narratives  by  individuals  on  whose 
trustworthiness  I  can  confidently  rely;  and  lastly,  of 
written  accounts  received  from  merchants  and 
officials,  and  of  extracts  from  local  official  documents 
and  books. 

The  TJigur  (sometimes  called  Ugrian)  language, 
as  spoken  at  Kashgar,  is  altogether  unknown  to 
European  savans,  who  are  only  acquainted  with  the 
written  tongue  which  resemblestheDjagatai.  Akind 
of  official  dialect  has  sprung  into  existence  in  Little 
Bokhara,  owing  to  the  prevalence  of  Chinese  forms. 

The  history  of  Little  Bokhara  is  scantily  known. 
We  are  more  or  less  acquainted  with  it  up  to  the 
time  of  Timur  Beg  or  Tamerlane  from  Chinese  re- 
cords, and  subsequent  to  that  period  from  Mussul- 


68  Traveh  in  Central  Jsia.  , 

man  sources,  which,  however,  glance  but  cursorily 
at  it. 

The  excellent  history  of  this  reign,  written  in  the 
middle  of  the  sixteenth  century  by  Mirza  Muham- 
med   Haidar   Kurekan,  vizier   of  Abdul   Rashid, 
Khan  of  Kashgar,  and  called  "  Tarikhi  Rashidi"  in 
his  honour,  remains  almost  entirely  unknown,  and 
is  certainly  never  consulted  at  the  present  time.     A 
Turkish  translation  of  this  work  is  to  be  found  in 
the  Academy  of  Sciences  of  St.  Petersburg,  and  an 
original  copy  in  Persian  in  the  library  of  the  St. 
Petersburg   University.     Unfortunately,  the  trans- 
lation  is    incomplete,    and    the    University   copy 
abounds    with    mistakes,   having    evidently   been 
transcribed  by  a  person  ignorant  of  the   Persian 
language.     The  "  Tarikhi  Rashidi"  is  divided  into 
two   parts,    the   first  containing   a  history  of  the 
Kashgar  Khans,  from  the  time  of  Tomuk  Temir  to 
the  reign  of  Rashid,  a.d.  1554.     The  second  par- 
takes of  the  character  of  a  series  of  memoirs,  in  which 
the   author    describes    his     personal    adventures, 
and  communicates  much  useful  geographical  and 
ethnographical   information   respecting  the  Bolor, 
Thibetan,  Thian-Shan,  and  Kuen-Lun  ranges.    The 
writer  was  a  scion  of  the  celebrated  Duglat  family, 
which    played    the   same   part  in   the    "  Mogul- 


Documentary  History  of  Kashgar.  69 

Ulus"  or  "  Tchete,"*  as  the  Maires  dtt  Palais  in 
the  households  of  the  Merovingian  dynasty  in  the 
eighth  and  ninth  centiiries. 

It  has  been  already  mentioned  that  the  history 
written  by  Haidar  terminates  with  the  year  1554, 
and  that  it  is  the  only  historical  work  relating  to 
this  country  known  in  Europe,  where,  however,  it  is 
known  only  by  name. 

I  was  fortunate  enough  while  at  Kashgar,  to 
obtain  possession  of  a  manuscript  called  the  "  Tiaz- 
kirai  Hodjaghian,"  which  is,  a  history  of  the  Hodja 
dynasty. f  This  remarkable  composition  terminates 
with  the  capture "  of  Yarkend  by  the  Chinese  in 
1758.  This  history  of  the  Hodjas  thus  forms  a 
continuation  of  the  Tarikhi  Rashidi. 

The  following  are  some  of  the  more  notable 
books  I  procured  at  Kashgar  :— 

1 .       Tazkiarai  -  Sultan  -  Sultuk  -  Bugra  -  Khan  - 
Gazy,"     Biography  of   Khan,    Sultan  Bugra 

*"  Mogul  Ulus"  or  "Tchete"  was  the  easteru  division  of  the 
Djagatai  country ;  its  Khans  camped  during  the  summer  in  Dzungaria, 
and  resided  at  Aksu,  Kashgar  or  Yarkend  in  the  winter.  The  Tchete 
Moguls  are  not  to  be  confounded  with  the  Mongols,  as  they  were 
Mussulmen  and  spoke  Turkish. 

■f-The  Hodjas  are  the  descendants  of  Mahomet;  they  form  an 
hereditary  priesthood,  and  are  much  reverenced. 


70  IVavels  in  Central  Asia. 

of  the  Ilek    Dynasty,  who    first     embraced 
Islamism,  and  introduced  it  in  Kashgar. 

2.  "  Tazkirai  Tugluk  -  Timur  -  Khan,  "  Bio- 
graphy of  Tugluk  Timur  Khan  of  the 
Djagatai  Dynasty,  who  was  the  first  of  the 
"  Mogiil-Ulus  "  Khans  to  embrace  Islamism. 

3.  "  Rishakhat,"  or  Information  respecting  the 
Asiatic  Law  Teachers  and  Saints. 

4.  "  Abu  Muslim  Murazi,"  a  heroic  novel,  re- 
markable on  account  of  the  many  local  his- 
torical traditions  which  are  introduced  in  it. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

Sketches  of  Travels  in  Dzungaria,  hy  Capt. 
Valikhanof, 

My  travels  in  Dzungaria  commenced  on  the  28th  of 
May,  1856,  when  I  joined  a  trading  caravan  whica 
was  then  encamped  in  the  settlement  of  Karamul, 
at  a  distance  of  twenty  miles  from  the  town  of  Kopal. 
This  caravan  had  come  from  Semipalatinsk,  and 
belonged  to  Kokan  and  Bokhara  merchants.  It 
consisted  of  eight  travelling  tents,  one  hundred 
camels,  sixty -five  horses,  thirty-four  attendants,  and 
merchandise  to  the  value  of  £3,000.  I  was  known 
to  the  party  by  the  name  of  Alimbai,  and  passed 
for  a  relative  of  the  caravan-Bashi,  the  worthy 
Mussabai. 

We  did  not,  however,  set  out  till  the  following 
day.     The  weather  was  fine,  and  favoured  our  jour- 


72  Traoels  in  Central  Aai 


ua. 


ney,  the  first  part  of  which  lay  along  the  picket 
road  to  the  out-post  of  Altyn-Emel,  through  the 
beautiful  valleys  nestling  among  the  lower  spurs  of 
the  Ala  -  Tau.  After  traversing  a  distance  of 
seventeen  miles  daily,  the  caravan  usually  came  to 
a  halt  in  the  cool  of  the  evening,  and  pitched  its 
tents  under  the  shade  of  a  high  poplar  or  silver- 
leavedwild  olive  (Djigda),on  thebrink  of  some  brawl- 
ing rivulet.  A  lively  party  formed  at  each  halting- 
place  round  the  blazing  fire,  while  the  Bokharians 
smoked  their  kalian,  and  beguiled  the  time  by  re- 
citing passages  from  Hafiz. 

The  Kirghizes,  encamped  in  the  vicinity,  would 
likewise  make  their  appearance  with  sheep,  which 
they  offered  for  sale,  while  their  more  distinguished 
chiefs  approached  with  the  view  of  receiving 
a  "  bazarlyk,"  or  present.  They  would  approach 
the  caravan  with  great  ceremony,  accompanied 
by  a  numerous  suite,  making  the  inquiry,  "  Who  is 
the  richest  ?"  On  this,  each  owner  of  a  tent,  in  his 
turn,  usually  treated  the  dignitaries  of  the  horde 
to  tea,  biscuits,  and  dried  fruit,  which  the  Kirg- 
hizes stowed  away  about  their  persons,  and,  after 
soliciting  a  present,  would  speedily  withdraw.  The 
caravan  was  once  honoured  with  the  presence  of 
the  Sultan  Djungazy,  ruler  of  the  Djalair  tribe,  and 


Visit  from  the  Sultan.  73 

his  adlatus  or  resident,  who  is  attached  to  his  per- 
son in  the  capacity  of  Mentor  by  the  Russian 
authorities,  on  account  of  the  Sultan's  imbecihty. 
Djungazy  surprised  us  by  the  eccentricity  of  his 
conduct.  He  entered  the  tent,  used  by  the  Kirg- 
hizes only  on  extreme  official  occasions,  with  the 
gait  of  a  fat  goose,  took  the  seat  of  honour,  and 
assumed  an  expression  of  profound  meditation, 
everybody  observing  the  strictest  silence.  Then, 
suddenly  lifting  his  head,  and  casting  a  penetrat- 
ing glance  around,  he  exclaimed  in  rhyme,  "  The 
Djalairs  have  many  sheep,  Djangazy  has  many 
thoughts."  He  had  spoken,  and  again  resumed 
his  Buddhistic  immobility.  In  the  meantime,  the 
Sultan's  adlatus  and  other  Kirghizes  opened  a  con- 
versation with  us.  They  described  all  the  parti- 
culars relating  to  the  Governor- General's  visit  to 
Fort  Vernoe,  repeated  the  words  he  addressed  to 
the  Kirghiz  people,  and  imitated  the  gestures  with 
which  he  accompanied  them.  They  entreated  us 
to  instruct  them  as  to  their  legal  duties  and  their 
legal  rights,  saying,  "  Our  bullocks  and  horses  are 
taken  for  picket-labour,  and  rarely  returned ;  the 
Cossacks  know  the  laws,  and  persecute  and  rob  us 
with  impunity.  We  cannot  resist  them  by  force, 
as  the  Cossacks  are  servants  of  the  Tsar,  and  for 


7  J-  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

any  complaint  against  them  we  should  be  sent  off 
to  the  perforated  mountains  (mines.)  A  great  stir 
was  once  made  about  three  of  them,  who  disappeared 
mysteriously  ;  two  officials  lived  a  whole  winter  in 
Karatal,  calling  on  us  to  confess  to  the  murder  of  the 
Cossacks.  God  forbid  that  we  should  !  We  never 
saw  them.  Even  now  the  Governor  says,  '  Find 
me  the  guilty  ones,  or  I  will  twist  you  all  into 
the  shape  of  a  goat's  horn.  I,'  says  he, '  am  thunder 
and  lightning.'"  The  Sultan,  meanwhile,  rolled  his 
eyes  about  in  a  curious  manner,  giving  occasional 
utterance  to  rhymes  in  couplets.  After  partaking 
of  the  customary  pilaff,  our  guests  retired,  leaving 
a  strange  scent  of  almonds  behind  them. 

Crossing  the  Ala-tau  by  the  Djaksy  Altyn-Emel 
Pass,  which  is  swept  in  autumn  by  strong  north- 
easterly winds,  called  locally  "  ebe,"  similar  to 
those  prevalent  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Ala-Kul,  the 
caravan  entered  upon  a  bare  siliceous  tract,  inter- 
sected by  a  valley,  from  the  ridge  of  which  the  Hi 
was  occasionally  visible  in  the  distance.  We  pro- 
ceeded in  the  direction  of  the  ferry,  kept  by  Kirg- 
hizes, over  this  river,  and  passed  the  night  at  a 
spring  in  a  valley  of  the  Kalkan  hills,  which  hter- 
ally  swarmed  with  snakes,  tarantulse,  scorpions,  and 
other  reptiles ;  for  a  long  time  after  I  could  not 


Passage  of  tke  River  Hi.  75 

shake  off  the  recollection  of  that  horrible  resting- 
place.  We  passed  a  sleepless  night,  and  resumed 
our  journey  at  break  of  day. 

The  caravan  was  two  days  crossing  the  river  Hi 
on    crazy    flat^bottomed    boats.      The   wretched, 
rotten  craft  was  towed  across  by  horses,  actually 
swimming,   and,    of  course,   exercising   but   little 
power  over  the  movements  of  the  boat ;  while  the 
bargemen   were   busily  employed  baling  out   the 
water  with  pails  !  After  celebrating  the  safe  transit 
of  the  Hi  under  such  disadvantages,  the    caravan, 
clearing   the    Suguty,  Taraigir,  and    Utch-Merke 
passes,  reached  the  Kar-kara  Valley,  having  made 
altogether   seventeen  forced  marches.      Here  we 
found  some  Kirghizes  of  the  Aitbuzum  tribe,   and 
dispersed  ourselves  among  their  "  auls  "  for  barter; 
but  we  found  the  Kirghizes  in  a  state  of  great  agi- 
tation.    Prior  to  our  arrival  a  sanguinary  struggle 
had  occurred  on  the  banks  of  the  Kar-kara,  be- 
tween the  branches  of  the  Kisyl-Burk  and  Aitbuzum 
tribes.     They  were  expecting  the  appearance  of  a 
Russian  official  who  had  been  sent  to  investigate 
the  affair   by  demand  of  the  Kisyl-B ark  party,  and 
were  contemplating  a  hasty  migration  in  case  of  an 
adverse  decision. 

And  so  it  happened.     On  the  4th  of  August  the 


7G  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

Kirghizes  began  to  decamp  in  a  hurry,  and  towards 
evening  not  one  of  them  remained  on  the  shores  of 
the  Kegen,  our  own  tents  alone  rearing  their  heads 
on  the  site  of  the  deserted  Kirghiz  camp.      Our 
position  was  an  awkward  one.     The  caravan-Bashi, 
and  some  of  our  more  experienced  men,  considered 
that  the  900  sheep  we  had  received  in  barter  from 
the  Kirghizes  were  insufficient,  and  they,  therefore, 
determined  to  proceed  to  the  Dikokamenni  horde, 
whose  encampment  we  reached  accordingly  on  the 
6th  August.     We  were  met  by  the  chief  of  the 
Salmeke  sept,  Manap-Karatch,  surnamed  the  Big, 
who  was  well-disposed  towards  the  Russian  Govern- 
ment, and  yearned   for  the   rank  of  Yesawul   of 
Cossacks.     He  well  merited  the  epithet   (or  title, 
whichever  he  might  consider  it),  of  "  the  Big,"  be- 
cause, without  exaggeration,   he  was  as  fat  as   a 
bullock.     Karatch  wore  a  peaked  hat  of  white  felt, 
with  the  brim  slit  in  two  places  over  the  forehead 
and  at  the  back  of  his  head,  besides  a   wadded 
"  Khalat,"  or  long  robe  of  striped  cotton  material, 
ornamented  with  three  green  silk  cords  over  the 
breast.     His  feet  were  cased  in  clamsily-shaped 
boots  of  red  leather,  with  large  wooden  heels.     His 
son   was    arrayed   in  a  similar  manner,  only  his 
khalat  was  of  a  more  brilliant  colour,  while  the 


CostiiDie  of  (I  Kirghiz  Spear iiinii. 


77 


collar  and  sleeves  were  faced  with  velvet.  The 
suite  was  nothing  1)ut  a  raggx'd  regiment  of  attend- 
ants, armed  with  cudgels  and  spears.  I  particu- 
larly noticed  the  costume  of  one  red-haired  spear- 


A  Krr;Gillz. 


man,  which  consisted  simply  of  his  nether  integu- 
ments and  a  felt  mantle  ;  while  another,  reo-ardless 
of  the  hot  weather,  wore  a  heavy  sheep-skin  coat 
and  fur  head-piece.       The  Kirgluzes  spoke   with 


78  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

great  rapidity  and  shrillness,  and  continually  filled 
their  mouths  with  snufF. 

The  valley  of  the  Upper  Kegen  lies  very  high, 
and  presents  excellent  pasturages,  but  the  shores  of 
the  stream  are  swampy,  forming,  in  some  places, 
hillocky  morasses,  called  "  Saz  ;  "  the  three  con- 
tiguous highland  valleys  of  Kegen,  Tekes,  and  Kar- 
kara  are  the  only  localities  in  the  whole  of  Dzun- 
garia  which  have  a  rich  black  loam,  with  luxuriant 
vegetation. 

The  "  Kibitkas,"  or  tents,  of  the  ninth 
division  of  Kalmyks  were  spread  over  the  great 
"  Saz."  These  Kalmyks  had  previously  been  en- 
camped in  the  vicinity  of  a  Chinese  mine,  now 
abandoned.  We  next  erected  our  tents  on  the 
banks  of  the  Chalkuder.  During  the  night  there 
was  a  fall  of  snow,  which  the  wind  whirled  round  and 
drove  in  clouds  in  every  direction,  just  as  in  the 
depth  of  winter ;  the  weather,  too,  was  extremely 
cold,  and  the  snow-drift  continuing  for  two  days, 
completely  cut  off,  for  the  time  being,  all  communi- 
cation with  the  Kirghizes.  On  the  third  day  the 
heads  of  the  Kirghiz  tribes  arrived  at  the  camping- 
ground  of  the  caravan,  and  took  us  with  them  to 
their  several  auls.  I  and  my  companion,  Mam- 
razyk,  fell  to  the  share  of  the  aiil  of  Bai-Bursuk, 


Interior  of  a  Kirghiz  Bwellviy.  79 

chief  of  the  small  Kydyk  tribe.  On  gaining  me 
aiil  we  proceeded  to  pay  a  visit  to  our  host,  by 
whom  we  were  received  with  all  due  ceremony,  and 
assisted  off  our  horses  at  the  door  of  the  tent, 
which  we  were  invited  to  enter.  The  tent  was  in 
a  sadly  dilapidated  state,  and  begrimed  with  smoke. 
Bursuk  occupied  the  seat  of  honour  by  the  hearth, 
facing  the  door-way  ;  his  wife  and  two  daughters, 
with  several  Kirghiz  women,  were  seated  on  calf, 
skins  to  the  right  of  the  entrance.  Nearer  to  the 
door  were  placed  cauldrons,  pails,  bowls,  platters 
and  other  domestic  utensils.  On  the  left  was  a 
Kirghiz  occupied  in  cobbling  boots  of  red  leather ; 
and  on  the  floor  were  strewed  chips,  fragments  of 
felt,  wool,  and  gnawed  bones.  We  were  seated  on 
a  piece  of  fancifully-stitched  felt,  which  is  the 
ordinary  apology  for  a  carpet  among  the  Kirghizes. 
Our  host  was  extremely  civil,  though  he  frequently 
cursed  the  tombs  of  our  fathers,  apparently  only 
from  force  of  habit.  The  amiability  of  his  wife 
would  have  been  equally  expressive,  had  her  articu- 
lation not  been  impeded  by  the  snuff  that  clogged 
her  gums.  Bursuk  ordered  some  "  kumis  "  for  us, 
on  whicb  our  gentle  hostess  pulled  out  a  small,  but 
well-filled  skin  of  this  refreshing  beverage,  care- 
fully wrapped  up  in  an  old  khalat,   and  produced 


80  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

some  wooden  bowls.  These,  she  and  her  daughters 
carefully  cleansed  of  the  adhering  layers  of  im- 
purity with  their  fingers,  which  they  afterwards 
sucked  with  unmistakeable  relish.  Bursuk's 
children,  nine  in  number,  handed  us  the  kumis, 
and  I  drank  it  with  the  best  grace  I  could.  All 
this  was  by  no  means  new  to  me.  In  1856  I  had 
been  entertained  in  the  tent  of  the  high  "  manap," 
and  wealthiest  Kirghiz,  Burambai.  On  that  occa- 
sion, although  we  squatted  on  the  carpet,  and  our 
host  on  a  Bokharian  blanket,  his  wife  reposed,  as  the 
lady  did  here,  on  a  calf-skin.  We  drank  kumis  out 
of  porcelain  cups ;  but  the  salt  tea,  in  default  of 
another  vessel,  was  boiled  in  a  cast-iron  washing- 
basin,  and  the  general  equipment  of  his  establish- 
ment was  the  same  in  all  essentials  as  that  of 
Bursuk. 

Uncleanliness  is,  in  short,  elevated  into  a  virtue 
by  the  Kirghizes,  and  hallowed  by  tradition. 
They  consider  it  as  great  a  sin  to  wash  their 
domestic  utensils  as  to  spit  on  the  fire,  or  step 
over  the  tether  of  their  mares  when  being  milked 
To  pm'ify  their  bowls  is  to  invoke  misfortune,  and 
scare  away  abundance.  The  men  are  not  in  the 
habit  of  changing  their  linen,  but  continue  to  wear 
it  until  it  falls  off  their  bodies      The  hunting  for 


Filthij  Habits  of  the  Kirffhises — a  Feasf.      81 

vermin  on  each  other's  persons  affords  them  agree- 
able pastime  for  their  leisure  hours,  without  which 
they  would  be  at  a  sad  loss  for  amusement,  the 
ladies,  especially, shewing  a  great  predilection  for  this 
savoury  occupation.  The  ritual  of  Kirghiz  mourn- 
ing is  very  simple,  and  consists  of  total  abstinence 
from  ablution  or  change  of  raiment  for  a  whole  year. 
The  hospitality  of  the  Burnt  Patriarch  was 
further  displayed  in  the  slaughter  of  a  lamb  for 
our  entertainment.  This  was  done  in  our  pre- 
sence, totally  regardless  of  the  poor  animal's 
bleatings,  after  which  a  fire  was  kindled,  the  tripod 
adjusted,  and  the  cauldron  placed  over  it  in  due 
order.  The  apathetic  countenances  of  the  Kir- 
ghizes became  at  once  animated ;  the  members  of 
the  family  bustled  around  the  fire  with  augmented 
zeal,  so  much  so  as  to  hinder  each  other  in  the 
culinary  operations  of  the  hour,  and  finally  quar- 
relled among  themselves.  Hungry  dogs  with  savage 
keenly-whetted  appetites,  licked  and  snuffed  at  the 
ground  where  the  lamb  had  been  killed,  while 
troops  of  Kirghizes,  in  expectation  of  a  mouthful, 
gradually  filled  the  tent,  and  a  native  artist,  accom- 
panying himself  on  a  "  balalaika,"  sang  a 
monotonous  ditty,  consisting  of  the  constantly 
recurring  word  "  dait,  dait."     At  last  the  cauldron 


82  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

was  taken  off  the  fire  and  a  large  platter  placed 
before  us  with  mutton  heaped  into  a  pile,  the  whole 
surmounted  by  the  os  sacrum  as  the  most  esteemed 
morsel.  We  ate  the  meat  dipping  it  into  the  salt 
broth. 

Early  on  the  following  day  Bursuk  appeared  to 
breakfast  with  us ;  he  carne  again  to  dinner  and 
to  tea  in  the  evening,  while  our  supper  was  also 
graced  by  his  presence.  This  he  did  regularly 
each  suceeding  day.  '  His  children  followed  his  ex- 
ample, and  his  relatives  exhibited  such  greediness 
that  Ave  were  obliged  to  hide  everything  eatable 
from  them  ;  one  of  these  gluttons  had  already  de- 
voured all  my  sealing-wax  !  Apparently  the 
entertainment  of  Bursuk  and  his  family  was 
considered  by  the  party  most  interested  a  bounden 
duty  on  oiir  part.  The  only  food  of  the  Kirghizes 
consists  of  milk  and  fallen  cattle.  Before  this  occa- 
sion the  Kadyks,  we  remarked,  had  never  had  the 
pleasure  of  entertaining  a  caravan  among  their 
auls.  This  was  apparent  from  the  behaviour  of 
Bursuk,  who  since  our  arrival,  had  assumed  an  air 
of  great  importance.  "  May  the  mouth  of  your 
fatlier  be  defiled !"  would  he  exclaim  to  those  he 
^vislled  to  impress  with  his  dignity,  "  I  have 
Sartas   (merchants,)  living  with  me,"  &t.  &c.     We 


Jlnbifs  and  Ciixtomx  of  llir  Kirf)lii~cK. 


S3 


were  likewise  visited  by  matrons  and  maiduns,  a\'1io 
brought  us  boiled  mutton  and  "kumis"  or  "  airau" 
in  ])ails,  Avitli  cheese  and  Inittei'.      In    rctuiii  for 


\   K  ri.-i.nr/  (  ti:  j, 


this  we  weru  obligrd,  accoiding  to  local  custom,  to 
give  them  presents.  My  companion,  quite  a  man 
of  the  world  and  a  dovotixl  ailinircr  of  the  fair  sex. 


84  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

was  delighted  at  this  opportunity  for  playing  the 
amiable.  He  treated  them  to  dried  fruit,  made 
them  presents  of  cotton  dresses,  plush,  fowls,  &c., 
and  paid  them  extravagant  compliments,  which, 
however,  they  could  not  appreciate. 

Sometimes  of  an  evening  the  daughter  of  our 
host  organized  little  parties  in  my  companion's  tent. 
On  such  occasions  young  men,  women,  and  girls 
collected  there,  the  men  sitting  on  one  side  and  the 
women  on  the  other.  The  games  would  then 
commence.  One  of  the  girls  rising  coquettishly 
from  her  seat,  would  choose  the  swain  who  found 
most  favour  in  her  eyes,  by  a  wave  of  her  kerchief. 
The  lucky  youth  vs^as  thereupon  obliged  to  perform 
some  dexterous  feat  or  sing  a  song.  If  his  per- 
formance were  creditable,  his  partner  would  reward 
him  with  a  hearty  kiss ;  while  on  the  other  hand 
remissness  was  punished  by  a  severe  beating. 
Singing  was  generally  preferred  to  physical  exer- 
cises, though  probably  not  for  sesthetical  reasons. 
The  process  is  as  follows :  the  singer  sits  on  one 
knee  and  sings  in  an  unnatural  tone  of  voice,  his 
lay  being  usually  of  an  amorous  character.  '  The 
production  of  the  first  note  costs  the  Kirghiz  great 
efforts :  his  eyes  become  bloodshot,  and  his  nos- 
trils dilate,  and  a  few  hollow  somids  escape  at  first 


Prim  if  be  Relations  between  the  Sexes.        85 

until  he  pitches  the  proper  key.  Central  Asiatic 
wits  compare  the  singing  of  the  Kirghizes,  and  the 
first  introductory  notes,  to  the  bray  of  a  donkey. 
On  finishing  his  song,  the  performer  gets  up  and 
places  himself  back  to  back  with  his  partner,  then 
skilfully  twisting  their  necks  round  they  salute 
each  other.  The  relation  between  the  sexes,  among 
the  Kirghizes,  is  altogether  on  a  very  primitive 
footing;  mothers,  fathers,  and  brothers  regard  any 
breach  of  morality  with  great  leniency,  and  husbands 
even  encourage  their  friends  to  close  intimacy  with 
their  wives.  My  caravan  friends  did  not  I  believe 
neglect  this  custom,  particularly  as  the  Buruts  had 
many  attractive  women  among  them.  Like  the 
Kirghizes,  the  Buruts  are  strangers  to  jealousy,  a 
feeling  so  common  to  the  Asiatic.  The  reason  of 
this  is  that  Islamite  notions  of  chastity  have  not 
yet  spread  among  this  people.  The  Buruts  call 
themselves  Mussulmen,  and  yet  do  not  know  who 
Mahomet  was.  Their  weddings  and  funerals  are 
conducted  after  Shaman  fashion,  but  if  they  can 
secure  the  services  of  a  scholarly  Central  Asiatic  or 
Tartar,  prayers  are  read.  I  can  safely  assert  that 
throughout  the  whole  country,  from  Issyk-Kul  to 
Badakhshan,  there  is  not  a  single  individual  of 
this  tribe  who  can  read. 


so  Trarc/s  in  Central  A>iia. 

The  Kirghizes  drink  a  spirit  which  they  distil 
from  Kumis,  and  with  which  they  intoxicate 
themselves  on  every  available  occasion.  The  con- 
dition of  the  Ri\ssian  Kirghizes,  or  those  of  the 
^iiddle  Horde,  was  the  same  thirty  years  ago. 
The  Russian  Government,  however,  proceeded 
to  erect  mosques  and  appointed  Tartar  Mullahs, 
under  whose  influence  the  Middle  Horde  Kirghizes 
do  not  now  yield  in  fanaticism  to  the  most  fa- 
natical Dervishes.  They  regularly  observe  the 
period  of  prayer  and  thirty  days'  fast,  while 
some  have  even  introduced  the  seclusive  system  of 
the  harem.  It  would  be  difficult  to  decide  which 
would  be  more  beneficial  to  the  Kirghiz  Steppe, 
the  former  state  of  ignorance  \^•itll  perfect  religious 
toleration,  or  contemporary  Tartar  civilization  with 
its  strong  anti-progressive  tendencies.  The  Tartars 
in  Russia  constitute  a  totally  separate  Eastern 
world,  having  nothing  in  common  with  the  interests 
of  Russian  nationality.  The  great  Kirghiz  Horde  is 
now  in  a  transition  state,  and  the  Tartars  who  are 
scattered  throughout  it  are  making  their  influence 
felt  more  and  more  with  each  succeeding  year. 

It  must  be  observed  that  the  farther  we  remove 
from  the  Tartars  the  less  fanaticism  do  we  find 
among  the  Kirghizes,  notwithstanding   that  they 


Predatory  Hahits  of  Btirsuk.  87 

live  here  under  the  influence  of  Central  Asiatic 
rulers,  and  in  a  country  usually  regarded  as  the 
very  focus  of  bigotry.  The  Bokhara  Mullahs  are, 
in  my  opinion,  much  less  to  be  dreaded  than  their 
Tartar  brethren. 

We  passed  nearly  a  month  vi^ith  the  Dikoka- 
menni  Horde,  roaming  with  it  from  place  to  place, 
and  carrying  on  a  constant  barter  in  sheep. 

Our  host  did  not.  as  already  stated,  belong  to 
the  class  of  "Manaps"  (the  Kirghiz  aristocracy), 
and  therefore  took  no  part  in  the  councils  of  the 
tribes  ;  he  vifas,  furthermore,  very  poor.  Bursiik, 
however,  was  aiming  at  securing  the  footing  of  a 
hereditary  chief,  and  carried  on  a  constant  depre- 
datory warfare,  or  "  Baranta,"  with  all  the  Kirghiz 
aristocrats,  in  order  to  enrich  himself.  He  was 
obliged,  consequently,  to  choose  the  most  secure 
and  inaccessible  positions  for  his  auls,  at  a 
distance  from  the  general  camping  grounds. 
During  the  whole  of  our  sojourn  with  him,  he 
kept  close  in  the  unapproachable  ravines  of  the 
Muzart  mountains,  or  among  the  swamps  of  the 
Upper  Tekes.  He  did  not  venture  from  his  retreat 
even  when  the  other  tribes,  having  pitched  their 
tents  in  the  broad  valley  of  the  Kegen,  made 
general  preparations  for  solemnly  celebrating  the 


88  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

nineteenth  day  after  the  death  of  the  High  Manap, 
Burambai.  My  host  and  his  nine  sons  were 
during  this  time  engaged  in  horse  steahng.  In 
1855,  Burambai,  High  Manap  of  the  Begu  tribe, 
with  10,000  of  his  followers,  took  the  oath  of 
allegiance  to  Russia.  In  the  spring  of  the  follow- 
ing year.  Colonel  Khomentovski,  with  a  company 
of  Cossacks,  was  despatched,  by  petition  of  the 
Kirghizes,  for  the  purpose  of  becoming  better 
acquainted  with  them,  and  for  surveying  the 
country  they  occupied.  This  first  Russian  expe- 
dition succeeded  in  the  course  of  two  months  in 
surveying  the  northern  part  of  Issyk-Kul,  and 
constructed  a  map,  on  a  scale  of  two  versts,  of  the 
locality  along  its  northern  shore  to  the  River 
Aksu,  and  along  the  southern,  to  the  River  Zaiiku. 
Accompanying  the  expedition,  I  visited  Burambai's 
aul,  where  I  gathered  some  remarkable  traditions, 
and  drew  up  a  memoir  on  the  Dikokamenni 
Kirghizes.  I  subsequently  came  into  contact  with 
Buruts  of  other  tribes,  Sarabaguishes  and  Saltus, 
and  during  my  present  journey  explored  their 
camping  grounds  as  far  as  Kashgar. 

The  origin  and  history  of  the  Dikokamenni 
Kirghizes  remain  matter  of  dispute  to  the  present 
day.     The  majority  of  sacuns,  who  have  directed 


Speculation  as  to  the  Origin  of  the  Kirghizes.  89 

their  attention  to  the  elaboration  of  these  questions 
from  Chinese  and  Eastern  historical  records,  are, 
however,  of  opinion  that  the  modern  Dikokamenni 
Buruts  are  the  Kirghizes  of  the  Enisei,  deported  on 
the  downfall  of  the  Dzungarians  in  the  last  cen- 
tury to  new  camping  grounds,  and  consider  them, 
on  the  strength  of  this,  to  be  identical  with  the 
Khakasis  of  the  Tau  dynasty,  and  Kelikidzes 
of  the  Yuan  dynasty.  Rashid  Eddin,  in  his 
history  of  the  Mongols,  classes  the  Kirghizes 
with  the  people  of  the  forests  of  Southern  Siberia, 
who  inhabited  the  region  of  Barkhudjin-Tukum. 
The  appellation  of  Kem-Kemjut,  which  he  and 
Albu-Gazi  give  the  Kirghizes,  suggests  the  Kem 
(Enisei)  and  the  River  Kemchuk,  as  the  locality  in 
which  they  probably  then  sojourned.  On  the 
conquest  of  Siberia  by  the  Russians,  the  latter 
found  Kirghizes  on  the  Abakan  and  Yuz,  and 
maintained  an  obstinate  warfare  with  them  about 
the  end  of  the  seventeenth  and  beginning  of  the 
eighteenth  century.  From  that  time  the  name  of 
this  people  suddenly  disappears  from  Siberian 
annals.  Fischer  is  of  opinion  that  they  were 
removed  by  the  Khan-Taidsis  of  Dzungaria,  and, 
relying  on  mere  hearsay,  considers  their  new  terri- 
tory must  lie  on  the  frontiers  of  Thibet  and  the 


90  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

Hindu  Cush.  M.  Levshin,  in  his  work  on  the 
Kirghiz-Kaisaks,  remarks  that  the  Swedish  officers 
were  the  first  to  note  this  event  in  history,  and 
maintains  that  their  migration  was  the  result  of  a 
special  stipulation  on  the  part  of  the  Russian 
Government  with  the  Khan-Taidsis.  But  the 
Chinese  call  the  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes,  Buruts, 
and  assert  that  they  migrated  to  their  present 
encampments  from  the  Kuen-Lun,  where  they  lived 
under  the  name  of  Bulu,  or  Pulu,  during  the  Tau 
dynasty.  Pere  Hyacinthe  was  the  first  to  dis- 
tinguish the  Kirghizes  of  Southern  Siberia  from 
the  modern  Buruts,  assuming  the  latter  to  be  a 
Turkish  tribe,  and  calhng  them  Kerghizes,  in  con- 
tradistinction from  the  first.  Ritter,  in  his  "  Erd- 
kunde  von  Asien,"  unwarrantably  confounds  the 
Dikokamenni  Kirghiz  Buruts  with  the  Kirghiz- 
Kaisaks,  and  takes  them  all  for  Kilidsis  or 
Khakasis,  migrated  from  the  Enisei,  whom,  follow- 
ing Klaproth  and  A.  Remusat,  he  classes  with  the 
Indo-Germanic  family — Mahomedanized  in  conse- 
quence of  an  amalgamation  of  tribes. 

With  regard  to  the  deportation  of  the  Kirghizes 
from  Russian-Siberia  in  the  seventeenth  century, 
Ritter  says  that,  harassed  by  their  neighbours,  they 
joined  their  kindred  tribe,  the  Buruts,  in  Eastern 


Traditions  amon(/  the  Kirghizes.  91 

Turkestan,  and  in  the  Steppe  to  the  south-east  of 
the  Irtysh  ;  he  consequently  considers  the  Buruts 
the  original  nomads  of  the  country  they  at  present 
occupy. 

Such  is  the  present  state  of  the  inquiry  regard- 
ing the  origin  of  the  contemporary  Dikokamenni 
Kirghizes. 

In  order,  if  possible,  to  throw  some  additional 
light  on  the  question,  I  directed  my  attention  to 
the  study  of  local  popular  traditions,  and  found 
that  the  people  known  under  the  name  of  "  Diko- 
kamenni, Black  Kirghizes,"  call  themselves  simply 
Kirghizes,  or,  as  they  pronounce  it,  "  Krgyz."  The 
appellation  of  Buruts,  given  them  by  the  Kalmyks 
and  Chinese,  is  altogether  unknown  to  them.  I 
also  ascertained  that  the  Kirghizes  consider  the 
Adjan  mountains  as  the  cradle  of  their  race. 

The  tradition  of  a  migration  from  Southern 
Siberia  does  not  exist  among  them,  although  there 
is  one  to  the  effect  that  in  their  wanderings  from 
South  to  North,  they  extended  as  far  as  the  Black 
Irtysh,  Altai  and  Hangai,  and  eastwards  to  Urum- 
chi.  Prom  this  it  must  be  inferred  that  the  Diko- 
kamenni Kirghizes  are  identical  with  the  Enisei 
Akazis  or  Kirghizes,  pronounced  KhUikizi  by  the 
Chinese.     A  Chinese  writer,  contemporary  with  the 


92  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

Mongols,  asserts  that  Khilikizi,  in  the  language  of 
the  natives,  signifies  forty  maidens,  from  Kyrk,  forty 
and  Kyz,  maiden  or  girl.  This  etymology  is  also 
adopted  by  the  present  Kirghizes  in  explanation  of 
their  name.  I  further  imagine  that  the  Kirghizes 
spread  themselves  eastwards,  to  the  limits  of  their 
present  territory,  at  a  very  remote  period,  which 
conjecture  is  further  borne  out  by  existing  popular 
traditions.  Their  migrations  only  ceased  when 
the  powerful  domination  of  the  Oirats  and  Dzun- 
garians  sprang  into  existence.  The  opinion  enter- 
tained by  the  learned  world,  that  the  deportation  of 
the  Kirghizes  in  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  cen- 
tury, from  the  Enisei  to  the  Thian-Shan,  was  entirely 
effected  by  the  Dzungarians,  and,  with  the  approval 
of  the  Russian  Government,  is  not  quite  consisteiit 
with  the  additional  facts  I  have  obtained.  In  the 
"  Tarikhi  Rashidi,"  or  History  of  Kashgar,  I  found 
evidence  that  the  Kirghizes  (Buruts)  so  early  as  the 
latter  part  of  the  fifteenth  centin-y,  were  roaming  the 
mountains  near  Adjan,  while,  during  the  life  of  the 
historian,  in  a.d.  1520,  they  wandered  as  far  as 
Lake  Issyk-Kul.  In  the  Archives  of  the  Central 
Office  of  the  Siberian  Kirghizes  at  Omsk,  there  is 
a  very  curious  document  or  "  Act,"  relating  to  the 
Khirgiz  migration  from  Siberia  in  the  summer  of 


Ori(/inal  Coimiry  of  the  K'lrgldzes  {continued^ .  93 

1746.     In  this  '■  Act "  it  is  mentioned  that  twelve 
men,  with  their  wives  and  children,  asserting  them- 
selves to  be  Kirghizes,  made  their  appearance  at 
Ust-Kamenogorsk,  and  declared  that  they  formerly 
lived  in  Siberia  between  the  towns  of  Tomsk  and 
Eniseisk,  opposite  the  town  of  Krasnoyarsk  in  the 
Steppe,  and  on  the  river  White  Yus,  under  the 
sway  of  Tambyn-Batyr-Datji,  also  paying  a  tribute 
in  furs  into  the  treasury  of  His  Imperial  Majesty. 
"  Mfty  years  or  more  ago,"  said  they,  "  during  the 
life-time  of  the  present  Khan,Taishi-Galdan-Cheren, 
three  Kalmyk  leaders,  named  Dunar,  Sandyk,  and 
Chinbin,  at  the  head  of  500  armed  followers,  at- 
tacked   us     when .   numbering     three    thousand 
'  smokes '  on  our  camping-grounds,  and  carried  us 
away  with  the  son  of  our  former  Khan-Tambyn- 
Batyr-Datji-Chainish,  to  the  Ziingar  territory,  ulti- 
mately driving  us  to  Urga,  where  we  have  remained 
ever    since,   paying    tribute  to    Galdan-Cheren." 
These    strangers    stated,    furthermore,    that  their 
kindred  and  other  Kirghiz  Kalmyks  lived  in  the 
Sagai  Steppe,  and  were  tributary  to  His  Imperial 
Majesty.     In  the  following  year,  viz.  1747,  two 
Kirghiz  Kalmyks,  who  were  captured  after  they 
had  succeeded  in  effecting  their  escape  from  Dzun- 
garia,    corroborated  the  above  statement,  adding 


94  Travels  in  Ceiitrnl  /kin. 

that  two  leaders,  Kharta-Idash  and  his  brother 
Emgen-Mergen,  camped  about  in  the  Sagai  volost 
or  district.  It  will  appear  from  this  that  the 
Siberian  Kirghizes,  from  their  proximity  to  the 
Dzungarians  and  Uriankhaitsis,  had  become  exten- 
sively intermingled  with  the  Mongols,  and  that  the 
Dzungarians  did  not  carry  away  the  whole  tribe, 
but  only  to  the  extent  of  3,000  kibitkas  or  tents. 
These  most  probably  became  thoroughly  amal- 
gamated with  the  Dzungarians,  and  might  have 
formed  a  Kalmyk  tribe  of  Kirghizes,  thus  leading 
Pere  Hyacinthe  to  suppose  that  all  the  Siberian 
Kirghizes  were  of  Mongolian  origin.  The  question 
then  arises,  what  became  of  these  Siberian  Kir- 
ghizes, a  people  powerful  enough,  during  a  whole 
century,  to  have  kept  the  towns  of  Siberia  in  a  state 
of  constant  alarm  by  their  inroads,  and  to  have 
struggled  with  such  formidable  neighbours  as  the 
Dzungarians,  and  Altyn  Khan  of  the  Uriankhaitsis  ? 
In  reply  to  this,  I  would  surmise  that  the  oblitera- 
tion of  their  name  might  have  been  produced  by 
the  same  cause  that  has  reduced  the  once  powerful 
territory  of  the  Golden  Khans,  who  received  tribute 
from  the  Kirghizes,  to  its  present  insignificance. 
This  formidable  State  is  now  known  as  the  duo- 
tributary  State,  on  account  of  its  paying  homage 


Importance  of  an  Etlmograpldc  Inquiry.      95 

both,  to  Russia  and  China.  It  is,  besides,  well 
known  that  the  Siberians  give  separate  names  to 
all  non-native  tribes,  and  that  the  remnants  of  the 
Siberian  Kirghizes  follow  their  nomad  instincts  on 
their  old  grounds,  but  under  new  names. 

Men  of  science  have  long  since  perceived  the 
importance  for  Ethnography  of  a  study  of  such 
relics  of  national  literature,  as  most  truthfully 
illustrate  national  morals,  manners,  and  cus- 
toms. Now  it  so  happens  that  profound  regard 
for  antiquity  and  an  abundance  of  traditions  forms 
a  marked  and  characteristic  heritage  of  the 
nomadic  races  of  Central  Asia.  These  tradi- 
tions are  devoutly  preserved  by  the  elders  of  the 
tribes,  either  in  the  form  of  ancestral  reminiscences 
and  genealogical  legends,  or  in  ballads  which  are 
perpetuated  by  a  special  class  of  bards.  Many 
words  and  locutions  now  obsolete,  prove  their 
antiquity.  The  traditional  account  of  Queen 
Gulmalika  having  been  the  ancestress  of  Genghis 
Khan  prevails  among  all  the  Tartar  tribes.  Thierry, 
in  his  "  Histoire  d'  Attila  et  de  ses  Successeurs," 
quotes  this  as  a  legend  of  Attila  and  the  Huns. 
The  story  of  the  origin  of  the  Dikokamenni 
Kirghizes  from  a  red  grey- hound  (kizin-taizan), 
and  a  certain  queen  with  her  forty  handmaidens. 


96  Tran'h  in  Central  ./-s- 


m. 


is  of  ancient  date.  A  characteristic  feature  in 
Central  Asiatic  traditions  is  the  derivation  of  their 
origin  from  some  animal.  According  to  the 
testimony  of  Chinese  history,  the  Goa-Gui  (Kao- 
tsche),  otherwise  known  as  the  Tele  or  Chili 
people,  sprang  from  a  wolf  and  a  beautiful  Hun 
princess.  One  of  the  Hun  princes  had  two 
daughters  of  such  uncommon  beauty  that  he 
determined  not  to  marry  them  to  any  ordinary 
mortals.  Building  a  high  tower  in  an  unin- 
habited wilderness,  he  left  them  in  it,  exclaiming, 
"  I  pray  Heaven  to  take  them."  The  youngest 
princess  falling  a  prey  to  ennui,  encouraged  the 
attentions  of  an  old  wolf,  who  for  a  whole  year, 
night  and  day,  prowled  around  the  tower,  and  at 
last  made  his  lair  at  the  foot  of  it ;  till  the 
princess,  notwithstanding  the  entreaties  of  her 
eldest  sister,  married  the  wolf. 

The  Tugus  (called  Dulgasses  by  Pere  Hyacinthe), 
professed  to  derive  their  origin  from  a  she-wolf, 
and  the  Tufans  (Thibetians)  from  a  dog.  The 
Chinese  assert  that  Batachi,  hereditary  chief  of  the 
Mongol  Khans,  was  the  son  of  a  blue  wolf  and 
white  hind,  ( "  Memoires  relatifs  a  1'  Asie,"  par 
Klaproth,  p.  204).  In  like  manner  some  of  the 
red-skinned  tribes  of  North  America  pretend  to  be 


Evidence  of  Genealogical  Traditions.         97 

descended  from  beavers,  tortoises,  &c.  It  is 
evident,  from  these  instances,  that  this  kind  of 
tradition  in  Central  Asia,  and  even  in  America,  is 
the  most  ancient,  and  even  seems  to  be  regarded 
as  a  descent  to  be  proud  of.  The  out-spoken  yet 
exalted  tone  of  the  Kirghiz  legends,  considered 
indecent  by  the  present  generation  of  Kirghiz,  is 
a  strong  proof  that  they  have  descended  in  their 
original  form.  The  tradition  of  the  origin  of  the 
ninety-nine  Kipchak  branches  has  been  'preserved 
among  the  Uzbeks  and  Kaisaks  in  such  an  indeli- 
cate shape,  that  it  is  doubtful  whether  it  will  ever 
be  possible  to  present  it  to  the  general  reader. 

Genealogical  traditions  form  a  most  important 
section  of  their  legendary  lore.  The  relation  of 
one  tribe  to  another  depends  on  the  degree  of 
affinity  which  exists  between  the  chiefs.  The 
hereditary  superiority  of  one  branch  over  the  other 
is  determined  by  the  right  of  primogeniture. 
Traditions  of  this  nature  are  in  so  far  important, 
as  they  represent  the  extraction  of  the  people,  and 
the  composition  of  society.  It  appears  from 
the  genealogical  tables  of  the  Kaisaks,  Usbeks,  and 
Nagais,  that  they  are  a  medley  of  different  Turkish 
and  Mongol  tribes,  formed  after  the  decline  of  the 
Golden  and  Djagatai  Hordes.     The  genealogy  of 


98  Travels  in  Central  Jsiu. 

the  Buruts  indicates  at  the  same  time  that  the 
principal  portion  of  the  people  is  composed  of  the 
Turkish  "  Kirghiz  "  tribe,  recruited  ultimately  by 
two  alien  sections. 

Of  these,  the  first  comprises  the  Kipchaks, 
Naimans  and  Kitais ;  whose  claims  to  Kirghiz 
nationality  is  expressed  genealogically  by  their 
having  had  one  common  chief  placed  over  them, 
who  is  stated  to  have  been  the  son  of  Kirghiz-Bai. 
The  Tchilik,  or  second  section,  though  claiming 
a  common  ancestor  in  the  son  of  Kirghiz-Bai, 
is  not  acknowledged  by  the  other  tribes.  A  third 
division  is  composed  of  the  present  Kirghizes, 
divided  into  two  wings,  On  and  Sol.  In  the 
present  generation  these  are  split  up  into  numerous 
branches,  each  branch  being  again  and  again 
subdivided. 

The  third  class  of  tradition  is  formed  of  the 
so-called  "  tales  of  olden  times,"  or  "  Djir"  of  the 
Nogais.  These  are  in  vogue  among  the  Kaisaks, 
Uzbeks,  Nogais  and  Kirghizes.  It  is  to  be  pre- 
sumed that  the  Nogais  comprehended  originally 
all  the  nomad  tribes  of  Central  Asia,  speaking  the 
Tartar  language,  who  were  of  Tm'kish  and  Mongol 
extraction.  The  Nogai  traditions  relate  to  the 
fourteenth,     fifteenth     and     sixteenth    centuries ; 


Heroic  Tradilionn  of  f/ie  Klrglihrs.  99 

they  are  of  an  epic  character,  sung  in 
rhyme,  and  should  therefore  be  classed  under 
the  head  of  colloquial  literature.  These  tradi- 
tions are  interesting,  as  expressions  of  the 
tone  of  the  native  mind,  and  of  the  ideas, 
customs,  morals,  and  mode  of  life  of  those  primitive 
ages,  while  they  are  equally  remarkable  in 
philosophical  respects,  and  are  not  devoid  of 
historical  interest. 

Among  the  Kaisaks,  Uzbeks,  and  Nogais,  who 
trace  their  origin  from  the  Golden  and  Djagatai 
Horde,  are  preserved  several  poetical  fables, 
founded  on  the  exploits  of  the  horde-heroes, 
Edigei,  Ir-Kokcha,  Urak,  Chor  and  others. 
These  are  all  historical  personages  :  Edigei  was  one 
of  Tamerlane's  generals,  and  is  known  in  history 
for  his  victory  over  Vitort  on  the  Vorskla ;  Urak,  a 
descendant  of  Edigei,  was,  according  to  tradition, 
a  prisoner  in  Russia,  and  married  a  Russian  prin- 
cess, on  which  point,  however,  there  is  no  historical 
evidence ;  mention  is  made  of  Ir-Kokcha  in  Nicon's 
Chronicles  in  1423,  with  reference  to  Tsar 
Kuidadada's  attack  of  the  town  of  Odoev,  as 
follows  :  "  They  also  killed  at  this  time  Kokcha, 
a  Tartar  hero,  of  great  statui'e  and  strength." 
Tchora  was  a  Tartar  prince,,  who  relieved  Kazan, 

H  2 


100  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

and  his  name  occurs  in  the  annals  of  that  town. 
The  manner  in  which  these  legends  are  handed 
down  from  age  to  age  proves  the  tenacity  of  regard 
for  antiquity  among  the  nomadic  tribes  of  Asia. 
It  must,  however,  be  borne  in  mind  that  these 
poetical  traditions,  from  the  proximity  of  the 
different  roaming  grounds  to  each  other,  and  the 
dialectic  affinity  of  the  tribes  occupying  them,  are 
easily  adopted  by  all,  which  renders  it  difficult  to 
trace  them  to  their  true  source.  M.  Hodzko,  for 
instance,  heard  many  episodes  out  of  the  Idichi 
from  the  Turkmen,  who  must  have  borrowed 
them  either  from  the  Kaisaks  or  Nogais ;  in  like 
manner  their  classical  robber,  Kor-Oglu,  figures  in 
Kaisak  rhapsodies.  Asia  is  rich  in  wandering 
traditions,  legends,  and  fables.  M.  Castren,  while 
in  Lapland,  heard  narrated  the  myths  concerning 
Cyclops,  Polyphemus  of  the  Odyssey,  &c.,  with  some 
national  and  local  adaptations,  current  among  the 
Karelians.  The  same  fable  is  current  in  the 
Kirghiz  Steppe.  Cyclops  is  there  called  Alp,  a 
giant  ogre,  and  a  Kii-ghiz  giant,  Batiir-Khan, 
enacts  the  part  of  Ulysses. 

The  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes  possess  a  remark- 
able epic,  "  the  Manas,"  relating  to  the  Nogai 
period. 


Epic  Poems  current  among  the  Kirghizes.    101 

The  "Manas"  is  an  encyclopaedical  collection  of  all 
the  Kirghiz  mythological  tales  and  traditions, 
brought  down  to  the  present  period  and  grouped 
round  one  person — the  giant  Manas.  It  is  a 
species  of  Iliad  of  the  Steppe.  The  Kirghiz  mode 
of  life,  their  morals,  geography,  religious  and 
medicinal  knowledge,  as  well  as  their  relations  with 
other  tribes,  all  find  illustration  in  this  com- 
pendious epopee.  This  poem  has  evidently  under- 
gone recent  modifications  and  additions,  and  its 
concentration  into  one  whole,  out  of  prosaic 
"  Djumuks"  (tales),  may  probably  be  of  very 
modem  date.  The  "  Manas"  consists  of  many 
separate  episodes,  having  the  form  of  a  connected 
relation.  Another  epos,  the  "  Samyatei,"  serves  as 
a  continuation  of  the  "  Manas,"  and  is  the  Burnt 
Odyssey.  The  Kirghizes  say  that  three  nights  are 
insufficient  for  the  relation  of  the  "  Manas,"  and 
that  as  much  time  is  required  for  the  "  Samyatei," 
but  this  is  in  all  probability  an  exaggeration. 

I  am  at  present  engaged  in  translating  the 
"  Manas,"  and  intend  to  compile  a  small  dictionary, 
in  order  to  make  students  of  Oriental  literature 
acquainted  with  a  hitherto  unknown  dialect.  The 
language  of  the  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes  is  Turkish, 
resembling   more    closely    than    any    other    that 


10:2  Trncch  ill  Central  ^lisia. 

spoken  in  Little  Bokhara.  In  it  there  are  veiy  few, 
or  scarcely  an}',  Arab  and  Persian  words,  it  being 
composed  principally  of  Mongohan  and  primitive 
Turk  teims. 

At  this  point  I  wovJd  fain  say  a  few  words  on 
the  distribution  of  the  Kirghiz  race,  its  principal 
tribes,  and  their  present  political  condition. 

The  Dikokamenni  Kirghiz  Horde  is  divided  into 
two  wings,  as  already  mentioned  :  "  On  "  and 
"  Sol,"  i.  e.  right  and  left,  corresponding  to  the 
Mongolian  "  Borongar  "  and  "  Dzungar."  The 
right  wing  consists  of  two  divisions,  "Adgene," 
and  "  Tagai."  The  latter  is  the  largest,  and  with 
it  must  be  classed  the  kindred  but  hostile  tribes  of 
Sarabaguish  and  Bugu,  Sultu,  Sayak,  Cherik,  Chon- 
baguish  and  Bassyz— numbering  eight  in  all.  The 
Bugus,  since  1S55,  'have  been  subject  to  Russia, 
and  number  eight  camps.  They  follow  agricultui'e 
on  the  southern  shore  of  Issyk-Kul,  and  roam  in 
summer  about  the  upper  courses  of  the  Kegen  and 
Tekes.  The  Sarabaguishes,  numbering  ten  tents, 
wander  along  the  Chu  river  and  eastern  part  of 
Issyk-Kul.  The  Sultu,  the  most  predatory  tribe, 
forming  fifteen  camps,  wander  on  the  Talas  and 
Chu, in  the  vicinity  of  the  Kokaniati  fort  of  Pishpek.* 

*  This  fort  was  stormed  in  October,  1862,  by  a  Russian  delacli- 
iiicnt,  under  Colonel  Koljiakox  ski,  when  nine  guns  and  600  men 
were  caplured. 


Distribution  of  the  Dikokamenni.  103 

The  Sayaks  occupy  the  upper  parts  of  the  Narym 
andDjungal;  the  Cheriks,  the  highlands  of  the 
Thian-Shan,  south  of  Issyk-Kul ;  theChon-baguishes 
sku-t  the  mountains  to  the  North-West  of  Kashgar. 
The  last  two  tribes  are  very  poor.  The  other 
tribes  of  the  Tagai  branch  occupy  the  mountains 
North  of  Namangan,  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Andijan  and  the  upper  course  of  the  Djum- 
gol.  The  Adgene  Kirghizes  pursue  agriculture  in 
the  Ferganah  Valley,  near  the  towns  of  Margilan 
and  Osh,  and  pass  the  summer  among  the  hills  ex- 
tending from  Osh  to  Kokan.  These  Kirghizes 
enjoy  the  same  rights  as  the  Uzbeks ;  they  serve 
as  soldiers  in  the  Kokanian  army,  and  their  chiefs 
fill  important  civil  and  military  posts.  The  present 
Kokan  Vizier,  Alim-Beg-Dashkha,  is  a  Kirghiz  Bey 
of  this  tribe,  and  with  his  Kirghizes  assisted  the 
ruling  Khan  Mallya  to  gain  possession  of  Kokan. 

The  left  wing  is  formed  of  three  tribes,  who 
frequent  the  Talas.  Their  chiefs  are  related  to  the 
Khan  of  Kokan,  who  are,  on  the  female  side,  of 
Kirghiz  extraction.  The  country,  peopled  by  the 
wandering  camps  of  the  Naimans,  Kipchaks  and 
Kitais,  tribes  which  have  become  incorporated  with 
the  Kirghiz,  stretches  from  Osh  along  the  Pamir 
plateau  to  Badakshan,  and  thence  to  the  Kara- 
Korum    range ;    with    them    rove     likewise    the 


104  T I- a c eh  ill  Central  Asia. 

Itchkiliks  and  some  families  of  the  Adjene  tribe. 
All  the  Kirghizes  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
Kashgar  town  of  Tash-Balyk,  with  the  exception 
of  the  Biigu,  who  are  Russian  subjects,  although 
under  immediate  subjection  to  China,  recognize  the 
power  of  the  Khan  of  Kokan,  to  whom  they  pay  a 
tribute  of  one  horse  out  of  every  hundred.  For 
governing  the  Kirghizes,  the  Kokanians  have  in  the 
country  they  roam  over,  the  forts  of  Pishpek, 
44.°  10'  N.,  74°  50'  E.,  Merke,  on  the  Chu,  44°  N., 
74°  10'  E.,  Aulie-Ata  (the  ancient  Taraz)  on  the 
Talas,  43°  44'  N.,  72°  3G'  E.,  Kurtka  and  Truz,  on 
the  Naryn,  41°  38'  N.,  76°  54'  E.,  Ketmen-Tupc 
and  Djungale,  on  the  river  of  that  name,  41°  47' 
N.,  74°  10'  E.,  and  Tash-Kurgan  4G°  17'  F.,  70°  E.* 
In  the  latter  part  of  August,  the  Kashgar  mer- 
chants, having  concluded  their  affairs  with  the 
Horde,  made  preparations  for  departure.  Our 
Kirghiz  friends  advised  us  to  join  the  Kashgarians, 
•■.he  road,  according  to  their  account,  being  unsafe 
for  a  small  caravan.  The  banks  of  the  Tekes  at 
Utah-Kapkak  Pass  were  fixed  on  as  the  place  of 
rendezvous.  liere,  by  the  27th  September,  were 
collected  sixty  tents,  or  in  caravan  parlance,  sixty 
fires.     While  the  route  to  be  chosen   (there  being 

*  These  latitudes  and  longitudes  it  must  be  distinctly  understood 
are  simply  approximative,  as  obtained  from  the  most  recent  Russian 
maps. 


Serious  Misunderstandivg — Affray.        105 

several),  for  proceeding  to  Kashgar  was  being  dis- 
cussed by  the  seniors  of  tbe  caravan,  a  circum- 
stance occurred  which  quite  upset  our  original 
plan,  A  Kokan  Yuz-Bashi  (centurion)  despatched 
from  Pishpek  to  collect  tribute  from  the  Bugu 
tribe,*  arrived  at  the  caravan  with  six  soldiers,  and 
demanded  payment  of  the  customary  dues.  On 
being  asked  what  dues,  and  why  they  were  de- 
manded ?  the  Yuz-Bashi  took  offence,  and  forcibly 
seizing  three  hundred  sheep,  drove  them  up  the 
mountain,  where  he  kept  careful  guard  over  them. 
The  Kashgar  men,  accustomed  to  conflicts  with 
the  Chinese,  forthwith  armed  themselves  with 
sticks,  and  fell  on  the  Kokanian  soldiers.  Un- 
horsing them  with  remarkable  dexterity,  they 
thrashed  the  warriors  so  unmercifully,  that  one 
remained  insensible  on  the  field  of  battle.  The 
Kirghizes,  fearing  to  incur  the  vengeance  of  the 
Tashkendians,  declared  that  they  would  not  allow 
the  Kashgarians  to  depart  before  the  recovery  of 
the  wounded  soldier.  As  we  did  not  take  any 
part  in  the  affray,  we  joined  company  with  some 
Tartars  and  Kashgarians,  who   had  also  remained 


*  Althougli  the  Bugu,  as  stated  previously,  are  Eussian  subjects, 
they,  nevertheless,  do  not  fail  on  every  opportunity  to  propitiate  the 
Kokanians  and  Chinese. 


106  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

neutral,  and  started  at  once  on  our  journey ;  and 
with  all  the  greater  speed,  seeing  that  snow  had 
already  commenced  to  fall  in  the  mountains.  Our 
united  caravan  consisted  of  ten  fires,  and  the  total 
number  of  men  was  sixty.  From  the  upper 
course  of  the  Tekes  we  cleared  in  two  marches  the 
San-tash  mountain  pass,  presenting  a  level  plateau 
famed  for  its  traditions  about  Tamerlane,  after 
passing  which  we  crossed  the  low  Kyzylki  moun- 
tains, and  entered  the  valley  of  the  Djirgalan 
(happy).  From  this  point  our  route  lay  along  the 
level  and  fertile  Terskei  valley,  in  which  we 
observed  half-naked  Buruts  employed  in  their  corn- 
fields. 

At  the  Djity-Uguz  river  we  fell  in  with  our  old 
friend  Bursuk,  who  had  removed  thither  with  his 
Kadyks,  for  the  ])urpose  of  gathering  his  harvest ; 
also  several  aiils  of  the  same  tribe,  subject  to  Bin- 
Samsal,  and  the  renowned  robber  chief  Djanet. 
Taking  leave  of  Bm-suk's  aids,  and  accompanied  by 
himself  as  a  safeguard,  we  entered  on  the  ninth  of 
INIaich  the  Zaiikti  pass.  The  presence  of  Bursuk 
did  not,  however,  save  us  from  the  rapacity  of 
the  Kirghizes.  On  the  11th,  as  the  caravan  was 
ascending  the  narrow  defile  which  was  obstructed 
by    fragments    of    rock,    a  deafening   shout   was 


Encounter  with  the  JBurats.  107 

suddenly  raised,  and  several  small  flags  were 
simultaneously  displayed.  We  had  hardly  time  to 
take  up  a  defensive  position,  and  to  fortify  our- 
selves behind  the  natural  barricades,  v^hen  wre 
were  attacked  by  a  band  of  seventy  Kirghizes.  My 
comrades,  actuated  by  the  instinct  of  self-preserva- 
tion, disappeared  under  cover  of  their  camels,  and 
did  not  show  themselves  again  until  the  fray  was 
over.  Our  servants,  however,  owing  to  the  strong 
position  of  the  caravan  and  their  effective  weapons, 
succeeded  in  repelling  the  Buruts  and  taking 
prisoner  one  of  their  chief  leaders.  The  engage- 
ment was  limited  to  a  few  wounded  on  both  sides, 
and  to  an  exchange  of  prisoners.  The  worthy 
Bursuk,  whom  we  had  taken  with  us  to  ensure  our 
safe  passage,  considering  himself  compromised, 
departed  secretly  without  the  promised  present. 

The  Zaiiku  pass  is  formed  by  the  rapid  course  of 
the  Zaukii,  and  by  the  Zaukiichak,  Kashka-ashu, 
and  some  Dzungarian*  rivuleta,  which  fall  into  it,  and 
also  form  passes.  The  route  thus  runs  first  along 
the  course  of  the  chief  river,  after  which  it  bifur- 
cates.    Beyond    the   junction  of   the   Dzungarian 


*  Mr.  Semenaf  was  evidently  not  aware  of  the  existence  of  this 
stream,yias  will  appear  from  his  remarks  on  Eitter's  "Asia,"  p.  16, 
vol.  ij| 


1 08  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

river,  the  Zauku  defile  becomes  steeper  and 
narrower;  forming  terraces  witli  two  Alpine  lakes 
between.  Fragments  of  rock,  in  huge,  irregular 
boulders,  block  up  the  passage.  The  defile  termi- 
nates in  a  precipitous  ledge  of  about  800  feet 
in  height.  The  skeletons  of  beasts  of  burthen 
which  strew  the  path,  bear  witness  to  the  difficulty 
of  the  ascent. 

The  whole  of  the  caravan  could  not  ascend 
in  one  day,  and,  therefox-e,  the  advanced  portion  of 
it  bivouacked  on  a  small  marshy  plateau,  at  which 
the  Zauku  pass  terminates,  while  the  other  portion 
remained  at  the  bottom,  at  the  old  encampment. 
The  difficulty  of  the  ascent  was  increased  by  an 
abundant  fall  of  snow.  The  pack-horses,  and 
more  especially  the  camels,  often  slipped  over  the 
wet  stones,  and  on  more  than  one  occasion,  losing 
their  footing,  fell  ricochetting,  and  with  a  loud 
crash,  into  the  yawning  abyss.  Pive  camels  and 
two  horses  perished  in  this  way.  My  companions 
were  quite  distracted.  Each  was  occupied  with 
his  own  beasts.  The  cries  of  the  drivers,  alterna- 
ting with  curses  and  abuse,  and  devout  appeals 
to  Allah,  Baha-ooddeen,  Appak-Hodja,  and  other 
Mussulman  saints,  shook  the  snow  accumulated 
for  ages  on  the  surroundinc;  hills  with  their  I'ever- 
bcratiiiL!;  echoes. 


CHAPTER  V. 

On  the  Condition  of  Aliy-shahr,  or  the  Six  Eastern 
Towns  of  the  Chinese  Province  of  Nan-lu 
[Little  Bokhara),  in  1858-59. 

Eastern  Turkestan  is  enclosed  by  mountains  on 
three  sides  :  by  the  Thian-Shan  on  the  Northern, 
the  Bolor  on  the  Western,  and  Kuen-Lun  on  the 
Southern.  These  mountains  belong  to  the  highest 
ranges  of  Central  Asia,  and  form  the  natural  limits 
of  the  Western  portion  of  the  Chinese  Empire.  The 
actual  boundary,  however,  runs  along  the  line  of 
pickets  stretching  through  the  outlying  lower 
ranges  on  the  Chinese  side ;  beyond  this  frontier 
the  territory  is  occupied  by  roaming  Kirghizes, 
who  recognize  the  authority  of  the  Kokan  Khan. 

To  the  Eastward,  Eastern  Turkestaa  is  bounded 
by  the  uninhabited  sandy  deserts  of  the  Makhai 


110  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

and  Kamul  Gobi.  It  occupies  consequently  a 
plain  between  36°  and  43°  North  latitude,  and 
70°  and  90°  West  longitude,  from  the  meridian  of 
Paris. 

Eastern  Turkestan  occupies  the  centre  of  the 
table-land  of  Eastern  Asia  ;  but  Humboldt,  guided 
by  the  vegetable  productions  of  these  parts,  con- 
cludes that  the  plain  of  Little  Bokhara  cannot 
have  an  absolute  elevation  of  more  than  1,200  feet, 
and  calls  it  the  Tarym  depression,  after  the  river 
Tarymgol  (otherwise  Ergol),  whose  basin  occupies 
the  whole  plain  of  Eastern  Tarkestan.  Little 
Bokhara  does,  in  fact,  present  the  appearance  of 
a  great  depressed  valley,  resembling,  in  physical 
features,  an  open  plain ;  and  this  general  view 
receives  confirmation  from  a  consideration  of  the 
course  of  the  river  Ergol,  whose  bed.  slopes  very 
gradually  to  the  eastwards. 

The  interior  of  this  country  is  a  sandy  desert, 
the  peculiar  features  of  which  first  become  visible 
in  the  eastern  slopes  of  an  undulating  range  of 
hills,  of  no  great  width,  between  Yanyshahr  and 
Yarkend.  From  this  region  it  gradually  widens  as 
it  runs  to  the  eastward,  where  it  forms  the  vast  Gobi, 
devoid  of  all  vegetation,  though  interspersed  with 
reservoirs  of  brackish  water,  and  where  the  sand 


Pliysical  Fcafiires  of  the  Desert  of  Gobi.    Ill 

is  heaped  in  such  lofty  ridges  that  the  inhabitants 
give  them  the  name  of  "  Gag  "  (mountain).  If  we 
are  to  credit  native  writers,  this  sand  is  subject  to 
the  same  phenomena  of  drifting  and  regular  loco- 
motion as  the  famed  moving  deserts  of  Africa,  and 
occasionally  buries  w^hole  cities.  The  parts  that 
lie  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  have  a  clayey 
soil,  strewed  with  small  stones,  and  in  some  places 
impregnated  with  salt.  The  numerous  rivers  run- 
ning from  the  neighbouring  hills  afford  means  for 
the  artificial  irrigation  of  the  earth,  which  would 
otherwise  yield  but  scanty  and  poor  vegetation, 
owing  to  the  extreme  dryness  of  the  air ;  and,  at 
best,  there  are  but  a  few  well-watered  parts  that 
form  fertile  oases.  These  cultivated  and  peopled 
patches  form  a  ring  round  the  base  of  the  Thian- 
shan,  Bolor,  and  Kiien-hm.  The  water  system  of 
the  river  Tarym,  with  its  tributaries,  relieves  the 
interior  of  this  desert,  by  a  narrow  strip  of  fertile 
land  along  the  various  river  courses,  where  the 
fertility  of  the  soil  admits  of  a  rude  system  of 
cultivation. 

Such  is  the  general  character  of  the  territory  of 
the  Southern  line,  which  is  completely  level,  and 
somewhat  monotonous  in  aspect,  owing  to  the 
absence  of  any  mountain  hues  of  demarcation. 


112  Trnveh  in  Co/trnl  Asia. 

The  mountains  surrounding  Turkestan,  on  its 
other  frontier,  lie  beyond  the  political  limits  of  the 
country,  but  are  of  importance  to  it  as  regards 
roads  and  passes,  and  consequent  facilities  for 
communication  with  the  rest  of  the  world.  The 
mountain  roads  generally  run  through  defiles, 
with  many  ascents  and  descents,  or  wind  by  paths 
to  a  considerable  height,  or  lead  along  the  face 
of  dangerous  slopes.  With  regard  to  communi- 
cation, the  Thian-shan  affords  the  greatest  facilities 
for  access.  This  mountain  chain  has  three  cha- 
racteristic divisions,  from  the  meridian  of  Kucha 
82°  48'  E  ,  to  its  intersection  with  the  Bolor.  To 
the  East,  from  the  transverse  course  of  the  Aksu 
to  Kucha,  the  celestial  mountains  rise  in  a  tower- 
ing ridge,  covered  with  perpetual  snoAvs,  which 
feed  enormous  glaciers,  and  are  therefore  called 
the  Muzart,  or  Icy  Mountains. 

The  rivers  rising  in  these  rock  and  ice-bound 
fastnesses  have  a  transverse  course  throughout  the 
entire  mountain  line.  The  declivities  are  covered 
with  coniferous  trees,  and  abound  in  pasturages ; 
but  this  district  is,  nevertheless,  all  but  unin- 
habited. There  ,is  only  one  pass  through  the 
Muzart  mountains,  which  is  called  by  the  Chinese 
the  Pass  of  Glaciers,  and  by  Humboldt  "Djeparlc." 


Tdhle  Land  of  Syrt.  118 

Through  this  pass  there  is  a  road  leading  from 
Kuldja,  43°  54'  N.,  80°  58'  E.,  to  Aksu.  Although, 
according  to  Chinese  accounts,  Djeparle  presents 
very  great  difficulties,  it  is  nevertheless  prac- 
ticable for  camels.  The  Muzart  Pass  is  closed 
against  foreigners.  Its  crest  lies  in  about 
42°  28'  N.,  80°  38'  E. 

Westward  of  the  Aksu  river,  as  far  as  the 
meridian  of  Kashgar,  the  Thian-Shan  merges  into 
a  broad  table-land,  called  by  the  Kirghizes  "  Syrt," 
about  a  hundred  miles  in  width,  and  intersected 
by  transverse  valleys  considerably  elevated  above 
sea-level.  The  "  Syrt "  is  quite  destitute  of 
timber;  its  soil  is  utterly  incapable  of  cultiva- 
tion. It  is  covered  with  a  short  but  thick  grass, 
and  serves  as  a  summer  pasture-ground  for  the 
Kirghizes.  There  are  many  caravan  tracks  across 
the  "  Syrt,"  which  are  all  available  with  camels. 
To  the  west  of  the  meridian  of  Kashgar  the 
Thian-Shan  separates  into  several  branches.  The 
mountains  of  this  region  are  all  well  wooded ;  the 
valleys  of  the  rivers,  all  of  which  have  deep  beds, 
are  fertile ;  and  the  ascents  become,  consequently, 
steeper  at  several  points.  Over  this  tract  there  are 
several  horse  paths,  but  only  one  commercial  road, 
leading   from   the    Eerganah   valley   to   Kashgar, 

I 


1 1  4  Travels  iu  Central  Asia. 

through  the  Terekty-davan  Pass,  known  to  us 
under  the  name  of  the  Kashgar  defile.  A  con- 
siderable trade  was  carried  on,  in  the  most  remote 
times,  along  this  road,  between  Asia  and  China. 
The  Terektin  road  abounds  with  fuel  and  forage. 
The  distance  along  this  road  from  Kokan  to 
Kashgiir  is  estimated  as  a  caravan  journey  of 
eighteen  days. 

The  Bolor  mountains,  otherwise  called  Alai  by 
the  Andijans,  are  precipitous  and  inaccessible  on 
their  western  face,  and  form  on  the  east  a  high, 
cold  plateau,  \isited  only  in  the  summer  by  the 
Kirghizes.  There  is  only  one  caravan  road  over 
the  Bolor,  ^vhich  passes  through  Badakshan.  This 
Badakshan  road  is  said  to  be  very  fatiguing,  and, 
at  best,  is  not  practicable  on  horseback.  The 
I'oad  through  Badakshan  to  Yarkend  leads  to 
Khulum,  thence  to  Bokhara,  Balkh,  and  Cabul; 
cai\'nans  requiring  sixty-fivo  days  to  reach  Bok- 
hara by  this  route. 

The  Pamir  is  intersected  by  roads  well-trodden 
by  the  Kirghizes  ;  all  of  which  lead  to  the  Khanate 
of  Kokan,  or  to  Karategin. 

Over  the  Kuen-Lun  one  pass  is  known,  that  of 
Kara-Korum,  by  whicli  Eastern  Turkestan  commu- 
nicates with  Thibet  and  India.     The  road,   as  far 


Vnrnrai)   Roaih  of  Emtcni   Tiirke-slan.     IJ.') 

,as  Thibet,  leads  through  uninliabited  places  with 
poor  pastures,  while  from  Thibet  into  India  they 
become  so  difficult  that  Indian  produce  from 
Bokhara  reaches  Eastern  Turkestan  through  the 
Terektin  Pass.  The  distance  from  Yarkend  to 
Thibet  is  a  journey  of  forty  days,  and  twelve  from 
Thibet  to  Cashmere ;  horses  and  yaks  are  the 
beasts  of  burthen  chiefly  employed  on  this  road. 

The  mountains  encircling  Little  Bokhara  gene- 
rally offer  but  few  approaches;  the  line  of  the  Thian- 
ShaUj  from  the  Aksii  to  its  point  of  intersection 
with  the  Bolor,  alone  affording  anything  resembling 
facilities  for  communication. 

Of  all  the  routes  above  named,the  Terektin  is  that 
most  frequented  by  troops  as  well  as  by  caravans ; 
it  is  enlivened  by  constant  commercial  traffic,  and 
not  a  day  passes  without  the  passage  of  a  caravan 
over  it. 

The  rivers  of  Little  Bokhara  belong  to  the  river 
system  of  Tarimgol,  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
which,  rising  in  the  Kuen-Lun  range,  faU  into  lakes 
or  lose  themselves  in  the  sands.  The  chief  rivers 
forming  the  Tarimgol  are  the  Aksu-Daria,  Faizabad- 
Daria  (otherwise  called  the  Kashgar-Daria),  Yark- 
end-Daria,  and  the  Khotan-Daria.  The  Aksu- 
Daria  is  formed  by  two  affluents,  viz.  the  Aksii 

I  2 


116  Travels  in  Central  Ji^ia. 

proper  (the  higher  waters  of  which  are  first  called  the 
Sary-Djas,  then  the  Kopchagai,  but  receives  the 
name  it  is  best  known  by  only  in  its  lower  course), 
and  the  Kakshal  river.  The  Aksu  rises  in  the  nor- 
thern slope  of  Khan  Tangri-ula,  on  emerging  from 
which  it  runs  parallel  to  the  meridian,  bisecting  the 
Thian-Shan,  in  which  it  has  excavated  for  itself  a 
deeprocky  channel.  The  Kakshal  flows  from  the  hilly 
elevations  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  mountain-lake 
Tchadyr-kul,  and  runs  due  east  under  the  name  of 
Aksai,  through  an  extensive  table-land,  on  quitting 
which  it  turns  abruptly  in  a  southerly  direction, 
descends  the  southern  slope  of  the  Thian-Shan  and 
falls  finally  into  the  Aksu,  having  a  course  parallel  to 
the  base  of  the  mountains,  and  a  general  direction 
from  N.E.  to  S.W 

The  rivers  forming  the  Kashgar-Daria  rise  in 
the  Thian-Shan  and  Bolor.  TheFaizabad-Daria  is 
formed  by  the  two  rivers  Tiimen  and  Kizyl-Daria ; 
the  first  takes  its  rise  in  the  Kok-Tonn  mountains, 
to  the  North- West  of  Jjake  Tchadyr-Kul ;  the 
second,  the  Kizyl,  has  its  source  in  the  Altai 
mountains,  where  the  Thian-Shan  is  intersected  by 
the  Bolor.  The  Faizabad-Daria  receives  on  its  right 
the  river  listen,  or  Khan-Aryk  (marked  Yamaniar- 
Tlsten  on  Russian  maps),  and  the  Yangishahr-Usten, 


Rioer  System  of  Eastern  Turkestan.       117 

and  on  its  left  the  Artysh.  The  Artysh  rises  in  the 
elevation  of  the  Torgat,  bordering  Lake  Tchadyr- 
kul  on  the  South,  and  before  emerging  into  the 
valley  is  called  the  Toin.  This  river  receives  many 
affluents  in  the  mountains,  of  wrhich  the  most 
remarkable  is  the  Terekty  or  Astyn- Artysh,  joining 
it  on  the  right  side.  The  river  Usten  or  Yama- 
niar,  is  the  outlet  of  Lake  Karakul  in  the  table-land 
of  Pamir.  To  the  Kashgar-Daria  system  belongs  the 
Yanyshahr-Usten,  flowing  from  the  neighbourhood 
of  Lake  Sarikol  and  falling  into  the  Kashgar-Daria 
on  its  right  bank.  The  Yarkend-Daria  or  Yarkend- 
Usten  is  formed  by  the  Yarkend-Daria  proper 
which  rises  out  of  Lake  Sarikol,  and  the  river 
Tynzap,  flowing  from  the  northern  slope  of  the 
Karakorum  Pass  in  the  Kuen-Lun  mountains.  The 
Khotan-Daria  also  takes  its  rise  in  the  Karakorum 
hills,  and  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  two  streams ; 
the  Kara-Kash  and  Yulgun-Kash,  (pronounced 
Y'^urun-Kosh  by  the  Chinese).  Below  the  junction 
of  the  Aksti,  Kashgar,  Yarkend  and  Khotan  Darias, 
which  all  unite  nearly  at  the  same  point,  the  river 
takes  the  name  of  Tarim-Usten,  and  Tarimgol  or 
Ergol  according  to  Chinese  geography.  Among 
the  rivers  falliug  into  the  Tarim  the  most  note- 
worthy are  the  Muzart,  Kucha-Daria  and  Khaidu, 


118  Trncch  ill  Centra]  Asia. 

descending  from  the  Thian-Shan  andfalling  into  the 
Tarim  on  its  left  bank.  The  Tarim  disembogues 
into  Lake  Lob-Nor,  signifying,  in  the  Mongolian, 
Starry  Lake.  This  lake,  according  to  Chinese 
authorities,  is  400  lis  in  lenath  by  200  lis  in  width. 
The  neighbourhood  abounds  in  turbid  springs, 
which  play  like  foimtains. 

There  are  many  lakes  in  Little  Bokhara,  all 
lying  along  the  borders  of  the  inner  desert,  and 
containing  brackish  water.  There  is  a  tradition 
current  among  the  inhabitants  that  their  forefathers 
sprang  originally  from  the  bottom  of  a  large  inland 
sea.  All  the  rivers  of  Eastern  Turkestan  bear, 
more  or  less,  the  character  of  mountain  torrents  in 
their  upper  courses,  having  an  inconsiderable  depth, 
but  a  rapid  current  over  a  rocky  bed.  In  July 
and  August  the  waters  swell  considerably  from 
the  melting  snows,  but  they  are  fordable  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year.  They  assume  a  great  depth 
and  breadth  only  on  the  junction  of  several  streams. 
Perries  exist  over  the  Kizyl  river,  between  Kash- 
gar  and  the  Chinese  fort,  as  also  over  the  Faizabad- 
Daria,  (at  the  junction  of  the  Tiimen  and  Kizyl). 
Although,  throughout,  the  Kashgar-Daria  and 
Yarkend-Daria  are  navigable  when  full,  and  the 
Tarim  at  all  seasons  and  along  its  whole  course, 


Arrangemeiih  for  accomoduHiiy  Cnravaus.   119 

yet  the  natives  do  not  take  advantage  of  these 
admirable  facilities  for  intercommunication.  The 
rivers  of  Little  Bokhara,  viewed  either  as  convenient 
for  communication  or  in  a  scientific  or  agricultural 
light,  are  of  the  utmost  importance  for  this  region, 
inasmuch  as  they  diffuse  fertiUty  in  the  inner 
deserts,  and  convert  the  otherwise  inhospitable 
plains  into  a  country  suitable  for  the  abode  of 
man. 

The  roads  in  the  interior,  between  the  towns  of 
Eastern  Turkestan  and  China,  are  convenient 
enough.  "  Urtengs,"  or  stations,  have  been  built 
along  all  of  them  by  the  Chinese,  each  of  which 
is  occupied  by  fifteen  or  twenty  Chinamen  under 
an  officer,  with  as  many  Turkestan  families.  Be- 
sides these  "  Urtengs,"  there  are  signal  houses 
for  the  speedy  transmission  of  intelligence  in  the 
event  of  war  or  insurrections ;  and,  for  the 
accommodation  of  travellers,  forage  and  provisions 
for  small  caravans  are  also  obtainable  at  these 
stations. 

The  city  of  Aksii  is  the  point  of  divergence  for 
all  the  roads  of  this  region.  The  various  routes 
centring  at  Aksu  lead  to  China,  IH,  and  all  the 
towns  of  Eastern  Turkestan. 

All  the  roads  leading  from  the  interior  of  China, 


12U  Trdceh  in  Central  Ada. 

to  the  Western  frontiers,  converge  at  the  town  of 
Hun-Chanfoo,  whence  there  is  a  road  to  Lian-Djeu, 
where  a  large  magazine  of  warhke  stores  has  been 
estabUshed  for  use  in  the  event  of  a  war  in  the 
west.  At  a  distance  of  37  versts  (24f  miles)  from 
this  town,  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  great 
wall,  is  the  fortress  of  Tzia-yui-Hiian,  which 
commands  the  road.  From  this  point  to  Komula 
extends  a  sandy  steppe,  uninhabited,  and  destitute 
alike  of  water,  forage,  or  vegetation.  Important 
granaries  have  been  in  like  manner  established  by 
the  Chinese  at  Komul.  Farther  on,  the  road 
branches  off  in  two  directions,  one,  the  "  Northern 
Road,"  leading  to  Dzungaria,  the  other,  the 
"  Southern  Road,"  to  Eastern  Turkestan.  The 
Dzungarian  road  trends  along  the  eastern  lateral 
depression  of  the  Thian-Shan,  through  Barkul, 
Urumchi,  and  Hurkharasu  to  Hi.  The  Southern 
Road  takes  a  westerly  direction  through  Pidjan  to 
Turfan,  which  latter  town  has  direct  comumnica- 
tion  with  Urumchi  by  way  of  Bogdo-tila.  Beyond 
Turfan,  it  leads  to  Kara-Shahr,  which  in  its  turn 
is  accessible  from  Hi  by  the  rivers  Julduz  and 
Narat-Davam.  i\Iarshy  swamps,  stretching  west- 
ward, extend  to  the  south  of  Kara-Shahr, 
necessitating    an    earthern    embankment    at    the 


Boute  from  Pekin  to  Aksu.  121 

town  of  Buigur,  and  the  road,  after  passing  Kuchi, 
finally  reaches  Aksu.  The  Chinese  calculate  the 
distance  from  Pekin  to  Aksii  at  8844  versts 
(25461  miles).  The  Southern  Road  runs  through 
level  tracts  of  country,  more  or  less  inhabited  ,•  a 
barren  steppe,  however,  terminating  within  84 
miles  of  the  Khami  oasis,  spreads  between  the 
barriers  of  Tzia-yui-Hiian  and  Khami,  for  a  distance 
of  750  versts  (497  miles).  The  Chinese  have 
founded  settlements  along  this  road,  and  built 
stations.  The  remarkable  points  along  the 
Southern  Road,  in  mihtary  respects,  are : — Khamil, 
45°  18'  N.,  92°  14  'E.,  where  are  magazines  of  grain 
and  arms,  and  Buigur.  This  town  lies  in  the  middle 
of  impassable  marshes,  and  with  a  small  force  is 
capable  of  defending  the  Southern  Road.  It  takes 
four  and  a  half  and  five  months  for  caravans  and 
troops  to  traverse  the  road  from  Pekin  to  Aksu, 
but  the  journey  is  effected  in  one  month  by 
special  messengers. 

Prom  Aksvi  to  Hi  (Kuldja),  at  which  place  the 
military  and  civil  governments  of  the  Western 
region  are  concentrated,  the  distance  is  reckoned 
at  615  versts  (407^  miles),  the  road  leading 
through  very  mountainous  localities.  The  famous 
Djeparle,  or  pass  of  glaciers,  occurs  on  this  road. 


132  Travels  in  Cetitral  Asia. 

A  quick  journey  over  this  road,  completed  in 
fifteen  days,  is  looked  upon  as  a  marvel  of 
expeditious  travelling,  even  with  all  the  advantages  of 
numerous  "  Urtengs  "  which  have  been  constructed 
along  it.  The  principal  Chinese  high  road  from 
Aksu  goes  to  Ush-Tmfan,  41°  N.,  76°,  20'  E.,  and 
Yarkend.  To  Ush-Turfan  the  distance  is  esti- 
mated at  eighty  miles,  and  to  Yarkend  at  247 
miles.  At  a  distance  of  290  versts  (192  miles) 
from  Aksu,  on  the  road  to  Yarkend,  lies  the  town 
of  Burchuk,  garrisoned  by  a  Chinese  force,  and 
provided  with  a  ferry.  From  hence  there  is  a 
direct  road  to  Kashgar,  the  distance  thither,  from 
this  point,  being  estimated  at  about  240  versts 
(159  miles) ;  trading  caravans  from  Aksu  always 
proceed  straight  to  Kashgar  along  this  road.  The 
main  road  from  Yarkend  leads  to  Kashgar,  through 
Yanyshahr  on  to  Kokan.  The  distance  between 
Yarkend  and  Yanyshahr,is  113  miles, andfifty-seven 
miles  from  the  latter  place  to  Kasligar,  the  length 
of  the  journey  between  Kokan  and  Yarkend  being 
computed  at  270  miles.  Chinese  troops  and 
Government  convoys  march  to  Kashgar  and 
Khotan,  through  Yarkend. 

Besides  these  roads,  there  is  one  direct  from 
Aksu  to  Khotan,  following  the  course  of  the  Kho- 


Various  Caravan  Routes  to  Yarkend.      123 

tan-Daria,  (along  the  banks  of  which  caravans  travel 
for  eighteen  days,  or  fifteen  days  in  quick  travelling), 
and  two  others  from  Ush-Turfan  to  Kashgar.  One 
of  those  between  the  latter  places  emerges  at  the 
fourth  station  of  the  Yarkend  route ;  after  joining 
which  it  proceeds  to  Burchuk,  and  thence  to  Yark- 
end and  Kashgar,  while  the  other  leads  straight 
to  Kashgar.  This  latter  road  follows  up  the  course 
of  the  Kokshal,  and,  passing  the  military  station  of 
Bokchan,  reaches  Altyn-Artysh.  The  distance  to 
Kashgar  by  this  route  is  calculated  at  233^  miles. 
The  road  traverses  various  uninhabited  tracts, 
which,  however,  abound  in  forage  and  fuel.  The 
routes  leading  from  Aksu  to  Ush,  Kashgar,  Yark- 
end, and  Khotan  pass  through  populous  localities, 
and  the  last  thjee  follow  the  course  of  rivers  whose 
level  and  fertile  banks,  hardly  rising  above  the 
stream,  present  fine  natural  meadows,  so  that  the 
roads  winding  along  between  the  base  of  the 
mountains  and  the  channels  of  the  rivers,  pass 
through  densely  populated  regions. 

In  former  ages  the  Chinese  communicated  with 
the  Western  region  through  Hua-Chjeii  (133^  miles 
west  of  Tzia-yui-Htian)  straight  over  the  sandy 
steppe  to  Khotan ;  at  present,  however,  this  road 
is  altogether  closed.     There  is  likewise  a  road  from 


124  Travels  in  Central  As. 


la. 


Turfan  to  Khotaii  via  the  Lobnor,  but  like  the 
last  named,  it  is  also  closed. 

Notwithstanding  its  enormous  extent,  Eastern 
Turkestan  possesses  a  remarkably  uniform  climate, 
which  can  only  be  accounted  for  by  the  pecuhari- 
ties  of  its  geographical  position.  The  circum- 
jacent mountainous  districts  are  subject  to  climatic 
conditions,  which  differ  materially  from  those  of 
the  Little  Bokharian  plain.  Even  in  summer  snow 
storms  are  of  frequent  occurrence  among  the 
mountains.  It  is  cool,  indeed,  throughout  the 
whole  of  the  season ;  in  the  valleys  the  snow 
remains  on  the  ground  until  the  months  of  May 
and  June,  while  the  mountain  summits  are  covered 
with  perpetual  snows.  Winter  commences  in 
October ;  at  all  events,  a  caravan  which  left  Kash- 
gar  on  our  arrival  at  that  place  (13th  October), 
was  compelled  to  return  on  account  of  the  Terektin 
defile  having  been  blocked  up  with  snow. 

We  shall  now  speak  of  the  climate  of  the  Plains, 
dwelling  chiefly,  indeed  almost  exclusively,  upon 
that  of  the  "  territory  of  the  six  towns."  Begin- 
ning then  with  our  own  observations  :  on  the  9th 
October,  when  we  entered  on  the  southern  slope  of 
the  Thian-Shan  chain,  into  the  Terekty  defile,  the 
shores    of  the   Terekty   river    were   clothed   with 


T/ifrmoi)i(4rical  Ohservations  in  Kashgar.    125 

luxuriant  trees  and  picturesque  clumps  of  bushes. 
The  thermometer  indicated  81°  .5  Fahr.  ;  and  on 
entering  Kashgar,  our  caravan  passed  through  fruit 
gardens  where  women  and  children  were  cutting 
down  the  remaining  vine  branches,  after  gathering 
the  season's  vintage,  and  the  pomegranates  were 
still  on  the  trees.  The  rice  and  cotton  crops  had 
not  all  been  got  in.  Fresh  greens  and  fruit  of 
various  soils,  such  as  apples,  quinces,  pears, 
peaches,  and  figs  were  exposed  for  sale  at  the 
bazaar.  The  weather  from  the  9th  October  till 
lowards  the  end  of  November  was  uniformly  warm 
and  clear.  The  heat  rose  to  81°  .75  Fahr. ;  about 
the  22nd  November  the  nights  grew  colder,  and 
the  leaves  began  to  fall,  while  the  water  in  the 
canals  was  covered  with  a  thin  crust  of  ice,  and  on 
the  26th  November  the  water  was  stopped  at  the 
"  aryks,"  or  aqueducts.  The  first  snow  fell  on  the 
31st  December,  and  continued  falling  until  the 
middle  of  the  following  day ;  the  second  fall  of 
snow  was  on  the  19th  January,  when  it  snowed 
all  day  and  half  the  night,  and  again  en  the  24th 
January  until  the  morning  of  the  26th.  The  ther- 
mometer generally  stood  at  32°  Fahr.,  and  upwards, 
falling  only  twice  below  the  freezing  point.  On 
the  Bist  December  it   indicated  14°  Fahr.,  and  on 


126  Trmieh  in  Cpniral  Axla. 

the  28tli  January  4°  Fahr.  The  rivers  Kizyl  and 
Tnmen  did  not  freeze  during  the  whole  winter,  but 
the  ponds  in  the  town  were  covered  with  ice  eight 
inches  thick.  After  the  Chinese  new  year,  from 
which  the  natives  reckon  the  commencement  of 
spring,  the  weather  actually  became  warmer.  On 
the  26th  February  water  appeared  in  the  canals, 
and  nature  began  speedily  to  revive.  In  the 
beginning  of  March,  pies  filled  with  the  first  shoots 
of  vegetables  were  offered  for  sale  as  "  delicacies  of 
the  season,''  and  on  the  21st,  several  trees  in 
the  court  yard  of  our  abode  were  already  in  full 
leaf.  During  the  \vhole  time,  until  the  departure 
of  the  caravan  from  the  open  country,  on  the  29th 
March,  the  weather  was  bright  and  warm.  On  the 
26th  and  27th  of  this  month  a  warm  N.E.  wind 
prevailed.  Fogs  and  rain  were,  generally  speak- 
ing, of  rare  occurrence,  usually  lasting  two  days 
only,  after  which,  at  intervals,  it  rained  slightly. 
During  the  middle  of  February,  the  weather  was 
frequently  windy,  west  and  N.W.  winds  predomi- 
nating. Relying  on  these  facts,  and  on  the 
strength  of  the  testimony  of  the  inhabitants,  it  is 
certain  that  spring  commences  here  in  the  middle 
of  February,  and  somewhat  later  in  the  neighbour- 
ing Ferganah  valley.     The  summer,  it  is    said,    is 


Shupdor  driHid  of  Thunder  Sloniis.       127 

distinguished  by  great  heat,  and  the  air  becomes 
insufferably  oppressive  from  the  heavy  clouds  of 
dust,  the  more  so  by  reason  of  the  great  scarcity 
of  rain  in  these  parts.  The  inhabitants  of  Eastern 
Turkestan  are  particularly  afraid  of  thunderstorms. 
When  the  horizon  is  clouded,  all  the  "  ahunds " 
vi^ith  their  pupils  walk  out  on  the  terraces  of  the 
Mosques  and  read  a  prayer  or  "knut"  in  a 
loud  voice ;  and  it  is  a  fact  that  they  ascribe  to  these 
prayers  a  power  of  propitiating  the  threatening 
heavens.  The  cause  of  this  intense  apprehension 
of  an  ordinary  phenomenon,  is  to  be  ascribed  to 
the  circumstance  that  the  earth,  after  a  fall  of 
rain,  becomes  covered  with  salt,  which  destroys 
the  harvest,  and  also  to  their  houses  being  built  of 
mud,  with  flat  roofs,  so  that  in  the  event  of  a  heavy 
fall  of  rain,  the  towns  of  Little  Bokhara  would  be 
entirely    destroyed. 

The  winter,  according  all  accounts,  has  generally 
much  the  same  character  that  it  bore  during  our 
stay,  /.  e.  the  snow  remains  on  the  groimd  not 
longer  than  three  or  four  days,  and  the  rivers  do 
not  freeze  at  all.  When  the  rivers  are  frozen 
along  the  shores,  the  winter  is  considered  a  severe 
one.  Intense  colds  prevail  at  the  end  of  the  twelfth 
month  of  Chinese  computation,  that  is,  in  January, 


1  2S  'Prareh  in  Central  Asia. 

and  spring  commences  from  the  Chinese  holiday  of 
the  new  year,  which  the  Turkestans  call  by  its 
name  in  Mongolian,  Chagan.  This  gradual  transition 
from  summer  to  autumn,  and  the  abrupt  change 
from  winter  to  spring,  form  climatic  peculiarities 
almost  exclusively  confined  to  this  country.  The 
change  of  the  seasons  is  accompanied  by  the 
following  variation  in  the  \'egetation.  The  apricot- 
tree  blooms  in  the  middle  of  JNIarch,  when  other 
trees  commence  budding ;  cultivated  meadows 
become  covered  with  fresh  blades  of  thick  "  musu- 
yu"  and  grass,  tulips,  and  anemones  then  make  their 
appearance  in  the  fields.  In  April  the  apricot-tree 
begins  to  bear,  and  towards  the  end  of  May  the  mul- 
berry, apricot,  and  the  "  zamuch  "  melon,  arrive 
at  maturity.  At  this  time  barley  is  reaped,  and 
onions,  turnips,  and  other  kitchen  vegetables  are 
planted  over  it.  Peaches  and  apples  ripen  between 
Jime  and  August,  while  other  cereals  and  fruit  are 
gathered  in  August.  Hempseed,  sesame,  rice, 
"  djugara,"  (Javary),  maize  and  cotton  are  not 
harvested  until  September  and  October. 

The  prevailing  wdnds  here  are  Westerly  and 
North-Westerly,  which  blow  principally  during  the 
spring,  and  raise  dust  and  dense  clouds  of  sand. 
Yanyshar,  Yarkend  and  Khotan  are  under  nearly 


GeHiaVity  rnid  Saluhriti/  of  Climate  of  Kliofan.  129 

the  same  climatic  conditions  as  Kashgar;  at 
Khotan  the  winter  is  yet  milder.  In  Turfan, 
Aksu,  and  more  especially  in  Bai  and  Sairam, 
lying  nearer  to  the  mountains  and  more  to  the 
north,  no  great  heat  prevails  in  summer,  and  the 
winter  is  severer.  The  rivers  become  frozen,  but 
snow  first  falls  towards  the  end  of  January,  melting 
immediately ;  this  does  not,  however,  retard  the 
growth  of  pomegranates,  figs,  and  cotton  at  Aksu. 
If  we  are  to  believe  the  concurrent  testimony  of 
the  Emperor  Kan-Si,  and  Pere  Gerbillon,  relative  to 
the  cultivation  of  orange  trees,  Khamil  must  enjoy 
a  more  genial  climate.  In  the  Eastern  towns,  it  is 
said,  the  winters  are  cold,  and  summers  exceedingly 
hot.  Yet  Turfan  and  Khamil  are  famous  for  their 
vegetable  productions,  the  latter  in  particular  for 
its  melons,  which  are  eaten  at  the  Im.perial  Court. 
The  climate  of  Eastern  Turkestan,  judging  by 
the  health  of  its  inhabitants  as  well  as  by  its 
beneficial  influence  on  strangers,  must  be  very 
salubrious.  Epidemics  and  pestilential  diseases 
are  altogether  unknown  to  the  Turkestani,  with  one 
important  exception,  however,  the  small-pox,  which 
in  former  times  swept  away  whole  settlements,  and 
drove  the  panic-stricken  inhabitants  into  the 
mountains.     The  ravages  of  this  disease  are  now 

K 


loO  Travels  ill  Central  Asia. 

stopped  by  the  introduction  of  vaccination.  Not- 
withstanding the  great  consumption  of  fruit,  and 
the  universal  custom  of  smoking  hashish,  which  is 
known  to  have  a  most  injurious  effect  on  the 
human  organization,  very  few  of  the  Turkestani 
ever  suffer  from  sickness.  Venereal  diseases,  not- 
withstanding the  great  depravity  of  the  natives, 
have  not  spread  hither.  Throughout  the  town  of 
Kashgar,  we  only  saw  two  persons  who  were 
disfigured  by  them.  The  males  are  well  built  and 
strong,  yet  they  seldom  attain  a  great  age.  The 
women  are  of  weak  form,  and,  owing  to  early  mar- 
riage (at  twelve,  and  even  ten  years  of  age), 
become  subject  to  various  chronic  complaints.  At 
fifty,  the  Kashgar  women  are  as  withered  as  our 
own  at  seventy  or  eighty.  Goitre  is  very  frequently 
met  with  at  Yarkend,  the  natives  of  which 
attribute  its  prevalence  to  the  property  of  the  water  ; 
and  it  is  also  met  with  in  Kokan. 

Passing  now  to  the  natural  riches  of  Little 
Bokhara,  we  shall  first  point  to  the  characteristic 
productive  features  of  this  region.  The  mineral 
wealth  of  Little  Bokhara  is  very  little  explored. 
Gold  is  washed  out  at  the  Karja  settlements  in  such 
large  quantities  that  the  inhabitants  pay  their  dues 
in    this    metal,    and    dispose    of    it    to    private 


Gold  Wasldny  at  Karja.  131 

individuals.  Eighty  "  Lans"  of  this  gold  are 
annually  sent  to  the  Court  of  Pekin  from  Khotan. 
Copper  is  obtained  at  Aksii,  Sairam,  and  Kuchi. 
The  copper  of  Aksii  is  known  for  its  malleability, 
and  contains,  according  to  local  accounts,  a  con- 
siderable admixture  of  the  precious  metals,  the 
method  of  extracting  which,  however,  is  not  known 
to  the  natives. 

Eastern  Turkestan  affords  in  abundance  sulphur, 
sal-ammoniac,  alum  and  saltpetre.  The  volcanic 
soil  around  the  town  of  Kuchi  is  particularly  rich 
in  these  materials.  Stdphur  is  obtained  at  Ush- 
Turfan,  in  the  Yarkend  district,  and  saltpetre  at 
Ush-Turfan,  and  at  Sairam,  110  miles  further  east. 
Salt  mines  are  worked  in  the  Yan-chi-Shan  moun- 
tains, east  of  Aksii.  Among  the  more  remarkable 
mineral  productions  of  Tm-kestan  must  be  in- 
cluded the  oriental  jasper,  Nephrite,  or  Jade  stone, 
which  is  highly  esteemed  in  China  under  the  name 
of  "  Yer."  The  Nephrite  found  here  is  of  two 
kinds :  that  from  the  mountains,  called  by  the 
natives  "  Loucha,"  or  "  bish-bargan,"  which  is 
found  in  the  mountains  of  Mirdjai  and  Sutash,  74 
miles  from  Yarkend,  and  the  second  obtained  in  the 
river  Ulgunkash  (pronounced  Yurunkash  by  the 
Chinese),  under  the  special  supervision  of  a  Chinese 


132  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

officer.  About  ten  "  gins"  of  the  mountain 
nephrite,  and  the  whoie  of  the  quantity  got  out  of 
the  Yurunkash  river,  are  annually  despatched  to 
Pekin  ;  where  its  sale  and  disposal  is  one  of  the 
most  rigidly  enforced  monopolies  of  the  Chinese 
Government.  We  are  not  aware  of  silver,  iron  and 
coal  having  been  discovered  in  the  "  territory  of  the 
six  towns/' — at  all  events  no  such  mines  have  been 
worked  in  Little  Bokhara.  Mention  of  silver  mines 
in  the  vicinity  of  Khamil  is  made  in  Chinese  chroni- 
cles, but  to  what  extent  this  is  true  we  cannot  say. 
Two  smelting  works,  one  for  copper  the  other 
for  lead,  which  occur  on  the  route  from  Kashgar  to 
Kokan  are  not  now  in  operation,  owing  to  political 
causes.  As  the  greater  part  of  the  mineral  wealth 
of  this  region  goes  in  tribute  to  China,  and  all  the 
copper  is  despatched  to  the  mint  at  Aksii,  the  re- 
quirements of  the  inhabitants  in  these  products, 
fall  very  far  short  of  being  satisfied.  Iron,  cast 
and  wrought,  lead,  copper,  and  latten  are  received 
from  Kokan,  to  which  place  they  are  brought, 
either  in  a  natural  or  manufactured  state,  from 
Russia.  The  very  limited  acquaintance  of  the 
Turkestani  with  metallurgy,  and  their  ignorance  of 
the  simplest  forms  of  mining,  prevent  them  from 
deriving  any  benefit  from  the  mineral  wealth  which 


Mineral  Wealth  and  Gold  Mines  of  Khokan.  133 

the  bowels  of  the  mountains  siixrounding   Little 
Bokhara  must  yield  in  abundance. 

The  Kokanians,  it  is  said,  obtain  a  considerable 
quantity  of  gold  by  washing,  in  the  upper  course 
of  the  Syr,  which  takes  its  rise  in  the  Thian-Shan  ; 
and  lead  mixed  with  silver  is  also  procured  in  the 
hills  to  the  east  of  Andijan.  The  Bolor  is  particularly 
rich  in  minerals.    Gold  in  nuggets  forms  the  staple 
of  trade  betwen  Karategin  and  Kokan,  and  slaves 
[Lapis  Lazuli),  turquoises  and  rubies  constitute  that 
between    Badakshan    and   Yarkend.     The    Pamir 
Kirghizes   bring  rock-crystals,    jasper    in  various 
forms,  and  gold  nuggets  to  Yarkend  and  Kashgar. 
Huen-tsang,  a  Chinese  traveller  of  the  eighth  cen- 
tury, states  that  the  Pomola  (Pamir)  country  yields 
gold  of  a  fiery  colour.  No  mineralogical  investiga- 
tions have  as  yet  been  made  in  the  Kuen-Lun  range, 
but  it  may  be  taken  for  granted  there  is  no  absence 
of   rich    metallic  lodes   in  it.     The   river   Karia, 
which  is  worked  for  gold,  rises  out  of  these  moun- 
tains, and  the  name   of  Zar-Afshan  (auriferous), 
which  some  rivers  flowing  out  of  it  bear,  together 
with  the  tradition  throughout  Central  Asia  to  the 
effect  that  the  ruler  of  the  Gildits  keeps  concealed 
in  his  cavern  bars  of  gold,  tends  to  strengthen  the 
foregoing  inferences. 


134  Trfivi'lxn,  Cnitral  Asia. 

The   natural   vegetation   of  Little   Bokhara   is 
poor  and  undiversified.     The  character  of  the  flora 
of  these  parts  bears  a  general  resemblance  to  the 
steppe  vegetation  of  the  Hi  valley.     The  northern 
slope  of  the  Thian-Shan,  impending  over  the  valley 
of  the  Issyk-kul,  has  a  rich  alpine  flora,  and  presents 
luxuriant  meadows  of  thick  grass  diversified  by 
flowers  of  bright  colours ;    the  declivities   of  the 
mountains  are  covered  with  the  Siberian  silver-fir, 
mountain  ash  and  dwarf  medlar  fCotoneaster  vuilti- 
floraj,  while  along  the  banks  of  rivers  are  found  the 
barberry,  honeysuckle,  alpine  currant,    brier,  &c. 
Above  the  coniferous  zone,  the  juniper  (Juniperxti 
sabinaj,  and  "  Chiliga,"    or   wild   southern    wood 
(Carof/nnd  jubataj  are  met  vidth.     The   southern 
slope  of  the  Celestial  mountains,  descending  to  the 
plain  of  Little  Bokhara,  west  of  the  meridian  of 
Aksvi,  consists  of  argillaceous  schist  and  conglome- 
rate, while  the  less  lofty  auxiliary  ranges  in  front  are 
formed  of  layers  of  laminated  clay      The  exposed 
rocks  of  the  Southern  slope  are  either  dotted  here 
and  there  with  isolated  patches  of  rank  grass,  or 
where  this  is  not  the  case,  are  perfectly  bare.  Among 
these  the  Knghiz  goats  and  sheep  with  difficulty  find 
food  for  themselves  in  the  autumn.     Eastward  of 
Aksu  the  mountains  ai'c  co\ered  with  coniferous 


Vegetation  on  the  Thian-Shan  Range.      135 

trees  (silver-fir),  and  present  rich  mountain  pastures. 
The  table-land  of  the  Syrt,  excepting  the  valleys  of 
the  rivers  Atbash,  Arpa,  and  Naryn,  is  not  suited  for 
cultivation,  through  free  from  timber,  and  covered 
with  fine  thick  grass.  On  the  plains  of  the  Atbash 
and  Arpa,  the  Kirghizes  sovc  wheat,  barley,  and 
millet.  These  plains  are  also  devoid  of  trees  and 
bushes,  being  covered  with  fine  grasses,  such  as  the 
feathergrass  and  wormwood.  The  deepened  course 
of  the  Naryn  forms  a  fertile  valley,  whose  elevation 
is  equal  to  that  of  the  Issyk-kul.  The  banks  of 
the  Naryn  are  bordered  with  the  "  Oblepikha" 
CHipophce  rhamonoidesj ,  willow,  poplar,  and  va- 
rieties of  the  "  Chiliga"  or  wild  southern  wood 
fCaragana  jubataj,  while  the  mountain  slopes  are 
clad  with  dense  forests  of  coniferous  trees  and 
plants  natural  to  the  alpine  zones  of  the  northern 
slope.  That  part  of  the  Thian-Shan  which  abuts  on 
the  Bolor  is  typified  by  spiraea,  the  juniper,  and 
dwarf  medlar  fCotoneaster  multifloraj.  The  latter 
plant,  as  well  as  different  liliaceous  types,  such  as 
tuhps  and  a  species  of  wild  garhc,  form  the  chief 
characteristics  of  the  Bolor  flora,  which,  it  is  said, 
also  abounds  in  rich  pasturages.  The  Kuen-Lun, 
according  to  Thompson's  evidence,  has  but  a  poor 
and    limited   flora;    its   crags    are   clothed    with 


130  Travch  in  Cctilral  Ania. 

prickly  plants,  amongst  which  the  astragal  is  the 
most  common.  The  landscape  and  the  vegetation  of 
the  plain  of  Little  Bokhara  are  still  more  dreary 
and  sterile-looking.  The  interior  of  the  country 
is  one  vast  desert  steppe,  consisting  either  of  sandy 
dunes  with  the  inevitable  "  Saksaul"  (Anabasis 
fsa.raulj,  or  of  bare  illimitable  wastes  impregnated 
with  salt.  The  most  fertile  spots  are  considered  to 
lie  between  the  sandy  plains  and  the  base  of  the 
mountains.  When  we  arrived  at  Kashgar,  in  the 
month  of  October,  we  perceived  that  the  vegetation 
in  the  neighbourhood  was  very  scanty ;  the  cha- 
racteristic plants  were  the  "  Yantak"  (camelthorn), 
tamarisk,  artemisia,  and  different  graminecB  pecu- 
liar to  a  sandy -argillaceous  soil,  such  as  the  "  Chi" 
and  Iris  augustifolia.  In  consequence  of  the  extreme 
dryness  of  the  atmosphere,  and  the  nature  of  the 
soil,  vegetation  is  entirely  confined  to  well-watered 
localities.  The  courses  of  the  rivers  are  marked  by 
t^o  narrow  parallel  belts  of  verdure  and  forest, 
consisting  of  different  species  of  bushes  and  trees. 
The  native  inhabitants  call  these  littoral  woods 
"  Djengels."  River-side  clumps  of  this  description 
are  called  "  Uremis"  in  Siberia  and  throughout  the 
Orenburg  region.  The  jungles  of  Little  Bokhara 
have  a  character  of  their  own;  in  the  upper  courses 


Vegetation  of  Little  Bokhara.  137 

of  the  various  rivers  in  the  Iovf  bushes  of  the 
Hlpophce  rhamonoides,  by  tamarisks  in  the  Thian- 
Shan,  and  by  copses  of  dwarf  medlar  in  the  Bolor. 
Wherever  a  river  about  mid-course  enters  upon  a 
plain  at  the  base  of  the  lovpest  lateral  spurs  running 
down  from  a  mountain  range,  the  jungle  becomes 
more  diversified,  and  the  poplar,  willow,  barberry 
tree  bearing  red  and  black  fruit,  sweetbriar,  wUd 
rose,  yellow  caragan  (Caragana  frutescensj,  and 
other  papilionaceous  bushes  CHcdimodendron  argen- 
teurri)  appear  in  this  portion  of  its  course ;  the 
elsewhere  abundant  dwarf-medlar  ceases  to  be 
found,  and  the  Hipophce  rhamonoides  attains  a 
lofty  growth.  In  the  lower  part  of  its  course, from  the 
increasing  pressure  of  the  water,  each  river  becomes 
broader  and  forms  moist  meadows  and  cane-brakes 
all  along  its  banks,  while  the  jungles  border  the 
shores  in  a  dense  and  broad  belt,  in  which  new 
forms,  such  as  the  hawthorn  and  wild  olive 
{Mmagnus-augnstifolid)  are  found  in  abundance. 
After  the  confluence  of  the  Little  Bokharian  rivers 
with  the  Tarym,  the  jungle  disappears,  and  the 
banks  of  the  main  stream  are  formed  into  broad 
and  marshy  swamps  thickly  overgrown  with  reeds 
and  cane. 

Owing  to  careful  irrigation  and  the  long  culti- 


138  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

vation  which   the   soil   has  undergone,  the  agri- 
cultural productions  of  Little  Bokhara  are   suffi- 
ciently diversified.      The  outskirts  of  the  towns 
and  villages  are  surrounded  with  shady  gardens, 
producing   figs    and   pomegranates.      Plantations 
of  cotton  and  artificial  meadows  cover  extensive 
areas  of  land,  and  the  moist  parts  are  sown  with 
rice.     The  vegetable  productions  of  Little  Bok- 
hara  are   the   following  cereals : — Wheat,  barley, 
rice,  javary,  red  and  black  lentil,  and,  to  a  small 
extent,  millet ;    oats  are   not    grown    at   all.     Of 
plants  for   dyeing   and    manufacturing   purposes. 
Eastern  Turkestan  produces — cotton  (belonging  to 
the   graminaceous  variety,  viz.,    Gossypimn  herba- 
ceiim),    hempseed,   sesamum    {Semniion   orientale), 
madder,  and  tobacco.     Several  varieties  of  melons 
and  water-melons,  of  exquisite  flavour,  are  likewise 
grown,  as  also  carrots,  radishes,  beet-root,  onions, 
mint,  peas  {cicer  Ariellnxiii),  poppies,  and  saff'ron. 
Cucumbers  are  only  occasionally  to  be  found,  and 
belong  to  the  kind  called  Chinese.     The  various 
gardens    are    planted    with    the    willow,    poplar 
{Poj)/ihis  pruinosa),  pyramidal  silver-leaved  poplar, 
mulberry,    wild    olive     (ElcBagnus   hortensis),    and 
"  chiliani ;  "  the  two  latter  yield  fruit  which  tastes 
like  the   date,  and  a  glue  is  extracted  from  the 


Decline  of  Ayrieidture  in  Little  Bokhara.  139 

first.      The    fruit-trees    are   apple,    pear,    berga- 
mot,  peach,    apricot,    quince,    pomegranate,    and 
fig.     Grapes  are  grown  principally  of  two  sorts  : 
"  Khuseini,"     a     white,     elongated     variety,     of 
delicious  flavour  ;  and  "  Sakhibi,"  of  a  round  form 
and  dark  colour.     The  foregoing  trees  and  plants 
are  common  to  the  whole  of  the  Little  Bokharian 
valley,  with  the  exception  of  those  grown  on  the 
hills ;  peaches,  pomegranates,  and  figs,  for  instance, 
do  not  grow  in  Sairam  and  Bai,  while  grapes  and 
cotton  are  successfully  cultivated  there.     Prunes, 
cherries,  and  walnuts  are  grown  in  Yarkend.     The 
inhabitants    of  the   village   of  Kargalyk,   in   the 
Yarkend    district,   occupy   themselves   exclusively 
with  growing  nuts,  which  form  the  staple  of  the 
trade  of  this  place.      From  this  it  will  be  seen 
that  the  vegetation  of  Little  Bokhara  is  very  poor, 
and   that   agriculture   is   in   a   state    of    decline. 
Without  taking  into  account  European  countries 
under  the  same  latitudes,  and  which  are  charac- 
terized by  the  richness  and  variety  of  the  semi- 
tropical  zone,  the  flora  of  Little  Bokhara  is  even 
poorer  than  that  of  Central  Asiatic  countries  under 
the  same  parallel  of  latitude.    The  vegetation  of  the 
mountains  of  the  Dzungaro-Kirghiz  Steppe  presents 
a  much  greater  variety  of  natural  forms.     In  the 


140  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

neighbourhood  of  Fort  Vemoe,  five  degrees  fur- 
ther north,  apricots  and  apples  grow  wild,  and 
the  leafy  trees  are  distinguished  for  their  size; 
while  the  grass  vegetation  is  remarkably  rich, 
notwithstanding  the  severity  of  the  winter  and 
great  depth  of  snow.  The  neighbouring  Ferganah 
valley  is  considered  the  most  fertile  part  of  all 
Central  Asia.  Its  mountains  are  covered  with 
coniferous  trees,  walnut  groves  and  pistachio 
bushes ;  and  agriculture  and  the  cidtivation  of 
fruit  trees  contribute  no  small  portion  to  the 
trade  of  this  region.  In  addition  to  the  fruit 
grown  in  Little  Bokhara,  the  gardens  of  Ferganah 
yield  almonds  and  plums.  Bokhara,  although  it 
presents  the  appearance  of  a  fertile  island  amidst 
an  ocean  of  sand,  has  more  cultivated  vegetable 
forms  than  Little  Bokhara. 

Eastern  Turkestan  is  characterized  by  the  absence 
of  meadow-land,  by  bad  agriculture,  scarcity  of 
wood  and  the  sterility  of  the  surrounding  mountains. 
The  cause  of  this  paucity  of  vegetation  must  not 
be  attributed  to  the  elevated  nature  of  the  region, 
as  vegetation  in  this  zone  can  flourish  at  a  con- 
siderable altitude — as  evidenced  by  the  ripening 
of  grapes  and  peaches  on  the  shores  of  the  Issyk- 
kul — but  to  the  character  of  the  soil,  which  is 


Animals  indit/eiioiis  to  Little  Bokhara.     141 

never  moistened  by  rain,  and  to  the  insufficient 
tillage  of  the  land.  With  regard  to  the  vegetable 
productions  of  this  country,  we  must  state,  in 
conclusion,  that  the  sugar-cane  referred  to  in  the 
Chinese  chronicles  of  the  first  century  of  our  era, 
and  to  vfhich  Ritter  would  have  particular  atten- 
tion drawn,  does  not  grow  anywhere  in  the  vicinity 
of  Kashgar.  We  should  imagine  that  the  Chinese 
historian  comprehended  under  this  name  either  the 
sweet  "  sorgho  "  or  the  javary,  the  stalks  of  which 
contain  a  sweet  juice  much  esteemed  by  the  native 
children. 

The  animal  kingdom  has  several  characteristic 
varieties ;  in  the  mountains  there  are  multitudes 
of  wolves,  foxes,  jackals,  lynxes,  bears,  and  white- 
breasted  martens;  also  mountain  goats  {Cajjra 
Tartarica)  and  sheep  {Ovis  argal'i),  which  frequent 
the  mountain  summits.  The  deer  hide  in  the 
forests.  Alpine  marmots  burrow  in  the  south- 
western slopes  of  all  the  high  table-lands  of  the 
Thian-Shan,  and  rats  are  plentiful  in  the  marshes 
about  the  sources  of  rivers.  It  is  said  that  herds 
of  wild  asses  [Equus  onager),  and  "  djeirans  "  {Ante- 
lope suhgutturosa),  roam  over  the  sandy  Steppes. 
Chinese  works  very  often  speak  of  wild  camel 
hunts,  which  formed  one  of  the  amusements  of 


142  Travch  hi  Ci^ntral  As 


in. 


the  rulers  of  these  cities  in  past  ages.  Notwith- 
standing that  the  chronicles  in  our  possession 
corroborate  this  remarkable  fact,  the  natives  could 
not  give  us  any  information  regarding  it  ;  and 
we  are,  therefore,  driven  to  conjecture  that  these 
wild  camels  must  be  entirely  annihilated,  or  have 
been  scared  away  to  the  inaccessible  wilds  of  the 
Sahara  of  Little  Bokhara.  The  wild  animals  indi- 
genous to  the  plains  are  the  Caragan  fox  {Cania 
Melanotits)  and  Corsac  fox  {Canis  Cor  sac).  Tigers, 
wild  boars,  and  grey  hares,  abound  in  the  jungles. 
Birds  of  prey  are  found  in  the  mountains,  of 
which  those  best  known  to  us  are,  the  lammer- 
geayer  {GypcBtos  harbafiis),  attaining,  according 
to  Chinese  accounts,  the  size  of  a  camel ;  the 
condor  {J'altiir  fuJvus),  eagle  {Aquila  nobilis), 
falcon,  hawk,  and  others.  The  eagle  is  the  only 
bird  employed  by  the  native  nobility  in  hunting 
the  fox  and  mountain  goat,  for  which  purpose  it 
is  chiefly  got  from  Khotan.  Falcons  and  hawks 
are  procured  from  the  thick  forests  of  coniferee  in 
the  Aksu  district,  and  are  trained  for  the  chase 
by  the  Kokanians.  Of  the  (jallinacem  foimd  on 
the  mountains  are  the  "  ular,"  of  the  size  of  the 
capercailzie,  of  an  ashy  grey  plumage,  and  with 
red  circles   round  the  eyes;    and   the    "kiklik," 


Grain  found  hi  Kokan  and  Turki-stan.       148 

about  the  size  of  a  partridge,  also  of  a  grey  colour, 
but  with  black  marks  over  the  eyes,  and  black 
and  red  stripes  over  the  breast.  These  birds  are 
also  indigenous  to  the  other  mountainous  regions 
of  Asia.  The  flesh  of  the  "  ular "  is  tender, . 
delicate,  and  highly  esteemed  by  the  Kokanians, 
and  the  flesh  of  the  "  kilkik  "  is  equally  palatable. 
A  more  curious  and  less  justifiable  purpose  for 
which  the  latter  bird  is  in  request,  is  to  train  it  for 
fighting,  as  was  the  custom  with  gamecocks  in 
England  in  bygone  days.  Pheasants  and  quails 
are  found  in  considerable  abundance  in  the  jungles. 
Pigeons  of  the  Steppe  {Syrrhaptes  paradoxus,  Illig.)* 
fly  in  vast  flocks  over  the  plains ;  while  crows,  rooks, 
magpies,  sparrows,  starlings,  &c.,  affect  the  streets 
of  the  towns.  In  the  better  populated  localities 
and  on  the  mountain  lakes  the  rarer  water-fowl 
are  singularly  scarce,  though  ducks  and  geese  are 
common,  more  especially  in  the  lower  course  of 
the  Tarym,  and  on  Lake  Lobnor,  where  swans, 
geese,  ducks,  and  other  water-fowl  are  so  numerous, 
according  to  native  and  Chinese  accounts,  that 
the  inhabitants  manufacture  the  down  into  clothes, 
and  sleep  on  feather  beds.  It  is  remarkable  that 
Eastern  Turkestan  is   not   visited   by   the   stork, 

*  Teiras  paradoxus.  Pall. 


144  Trareh  in  Ckniral  Asia. 

which  m  Western  Turkestan  builds  its  nest  on  the 
mosques,  and  struts  in  the  streets  in  common  ^^■ith 
other  domestic  animals. 

The  rivers  of  Little  Bokhara,  and  those  de- 
bouching into  Lake  Lobnor,  contain  an  abundance 
of  fish.  The  Chinese  relate  that  the  Lobnorians 
when  coming  to  Korlo  (a  settlement  in  the  Kuchi 
district)  on  business,  ahvaj's  carry  with  them  a 
supply  of  fish  for  their  consumption,  because  they 
cannot  eat  any  other  food;  other  Turkestans 
almost  wholly  abstain  from  it.  Judging  by  the 
general  character  of  the  natiu-al  productions  of 
this  region,  the  fish  here  will,  in  all  probability, 
be  found  to  be  the  same  as  those  which  natm'alists 
have  already  discovered  in  the  rivers  of  the  Balk- 
hash system. 

The  fissures  of  the  sandy-clay  soil  of  Little 
Bokhara  shelter  numerous  venomous  insects  of  the 
spider  family,  such  as  scorpions,  phalangia,  and  taran- 
tula; ;  and  there  is  more  especially  a  great  variety 
of  lizards.  We  did  not  see  any  snakes ;  but  it  is 
said  they  are  rarely  encountered,  and  cases  of 
persons  being  bitten  by  them  have  scarcely  been 
known  to  occur-  Li  summer  there  are  many  gad- 
flies, gnats,  and  moths,  particularly  in  marshy 
places,  overgrown  with  reeds.     Of  useful  members 


Domestic  Animals  of  Little  Bokhara.     145 

of  the  lowest  division  of  the  animal  kingdom, 
there  is,  in  Little  Bokhara,  but  the  silk-worm, 
reared  only  in  Khotan  and  its  vicinity.  It  is  said 
that  near  this  city  the  silk-worm  is  found  in  its 
natural  form. 

The  domestic  animals  of  Little  Bokhara  are  of 
the  same  species  with  those  bred  in  neighbouring 
countries.  The  horses,  which  are  of  the  Kirghiz 
breed,  are  obtained  from  the  Great  and  Diko- 
kamenni  Hordes.  It  is  only  the  rich,  and  those 
engaged  in  the  transport  of  goods,  who  have  large 
studs,  as,  owing  to  the  scarcity  of  grass,  the 
animals  must  be  fed  the  whole  year  round  on  dry 
provender.  In  imitation  of  the  Chinese,  the 
native  nobles  prefer  the  Kirghiz  steeds.  Hence 
Turkmen  horses  are  not  numerous,  and  being  kept 
only  by  the  Khotanians  for  the  saddle,  they  are 
either  of  pure  blood- — "topchaks,"  or  mixed — 
"karabairs."  The  Begs,  following  the  Chinese 
fashion,  employ  mules  in  harness,  which  in  other 
Mussulman  countries  are  regarded  as  unclean 
animals,  breeding  them  being  considered  in  the 
light  of  a  grievous  sin.  The  camels  are  of  the 
breed  so  extensively  diffused  throughout  MongoKa, 
and  the  Chinese  employ  them  in  transporting 
Government  stores  ;  they  are  also  used  by  the  tea 


146  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

caravans,  and  occasionally  by  the  Khotanians.  The 
Turkestani  occupy  themselves  merely  in  rearing 
sheep,  yaks,  and  asses. 


In  order  to  avoid  repetition  when  treating  of 
the  topography  of  the  towns  and  settlements  of 
Eastern  Turkestan,  we  shall  here  indicate  their 
general  features. 

The  external  aspect  of  the  towns  is  monotonous 
and  dull.  The  mosques  in  Little  Bokhara 
being  universally  built  without  minarets  (in  Yar- 
kend  alone  there  is  a  tower  over  the  ancient 
Registan  mosque),  and  the  houses  being  low,  with 
fiat  roofs,  the  traveller  approaching  a  town  sees 
only  the  mud  walls,  which  are  of  the  same  colour 
as  the  ground,  usually  relieved  somewhat  by  small 
barred  towers,  of  Chinese  architecture,  at  their 
angles.  All  the  towns  of  Eastern  Turkestan  are 
encircled  by  a  wall  diminishing  in  breadth  towards 
the  top,  about  eight  fathoms  thick,  and  reaching 
sometimes  eight  and  more  fathoms  in  height. 
Counter-forts  are  erected  at  the  gates  and  angles. 

The  gates  are  made  of  planks,  and  are  generally 
threefold.  Moats  of  three  and  more  fathoms  in 
depth  are  dug  round  the  walls,  with  bridges 
thrown  over  them.     The  houses  are  likewise  built 


Exterior  Jspect  of  a  Li  I  tic  Bok/iarian  Toion.   147 

of  mud,  not  even  excepting  the  palaces  of  ■  the 
rulers  ;  they  are  flat  roofed,  and  each  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall.  The  interior  usually  embraces 
an  open  square,  with  a  water  basin  in  the  centre, 
shaded  by  a  few  trees,  the  domicile  itself,  a  stable, 
and  occasionally  a  garden.  There  are  both  large 
and  small  apartments ;  the  former  being,  for  the 
most  part,  open  at  the  top.  Inside  these  a  con- 
tinuous bench  of  common  clay,  overhung  with 
drapery,  runs  round  the .  walls,  and  serves  in  lieu 
of  furniture.  The  inner  rooms  have  a  roof  of 
slender  branches,  with  apertures  for  the  light. 
Fires  are  kindled  in  stoves,  but  in  winter  char- 
coal is  burnt  in  braziers  in  the  rooms.  The  rich 
have  the  inner  walls  of  their  houses  stuccoed,  and 
the  niches  ornamented  with  arabesques,  while 
many  paper  their  windows  a  la  Chinoise.  The 
walls  of  a  house  closely  adjoin  those  of  its  neigh- 
bours on  either  side ;  but  from  the  street  walls 
and  doors  are  alone  visible.  It  is  only  the 
mosques,  medreseh  (colleges),  and  other  public 
buildings,  that  have  a  fa?ado  to  the  street,  the 
exterior  of  which  is  ornamented  with  coloured 
glazed  tiles.  The  streets  are  irregular  and  very 
narrow,  even  the  two-wheeled  araba  being  only 
able  to   pasr,   through   the   principal   ones.     The 

l2 


148  Travels  in  Central  Asio. 

stalls,  refreshment  houses,  and  barber-shops,  are 
situated  on  both  sides  of  the  larger  streets  leading 
from  the  gates  to  the  market-place,  in  the  centre 
of  the  town.  Some  of  these  streets  are  covered 
in  at  the  top  with  mats.  The  centre  of  the  town 
is  generally  near  the  chief  mechet,  "  Registan  " 
or  "  Aitga,"  adjoining  which  is  the  market-place, 
called  "  Charsu."  One  or  two  canals,  filled  from 
several  ponds  and  lined  with  avenues  of  trees, 
pass  through  the  town.  In  winter,  when  the 
water  freezes  in  the  canals  and  the  supply  is 
stopped,  the  natives  draw  it  either  from  the  ponds 
or  river. 

The  Chinese  fortresses,  manchens,  or  "  gulbai," 
are  armed  like  the  ]\Iussulman  towns.  If  the 
manchens  occur  close  to  a  native  toM'n,  the  space 
between  them  is  converted  into  a  street,  on  both 
sides  of  which  are  Chinese  houses  of  refreshment 
and  shops.  Such  streets  are  called  "  Hai-Chan." 
The  "  Hai-Chan  "  at  Yarkend  and  Khotan  serves 
as  a  weekly  bazaar.  Turkestani  settlements  or 
villages  consist  of  scattered  habitations  standing 
apart  from  each  other.  Each  house  is  closed  in 
by  a  wall,  and  surrounded  by  gardens  and  corn- 
fields, and  several  such  connected  by  avenues  of 
mulberry  and  olive  trees,  form  a  settlement.     In 


Description  of  City  of  Kasligar.  149 

more  thickly-populated  villages,  the  houses  are 
grouped  closer,  but  have  no  walls.  The  Chinese 
call  the  large  settlements  towns,  but  the  natives 
term  them  "  Yasy,"  or  villages.  With  respect  to 
the  local  administration  of  the  six  "Western  towns 
of  Eastern  Turkestan,  they  form  departments  or 
districts,  independent  of  each  other ;  and  as  the 
Chinese  do  not  exercise  any  immediate  influence 
in  their  government,  we  shall  here  adopt  the 
native  division. 

1.  Kashgar  District. — Kashgar  is  one  of  the 
largest  towns  of  Eastern  TurkeStan;  it  contains 
16,000  houses,  is  situated  between  the  rivers  Kizyl 
and  Tiimen,  surrounded  by  a  clay  wall  six  fathoms 
high,  about  ten  arshines  thick  at  its  foundation, 
and  five  at  the  top,  and  about  eight  miles  (twelve 
versts)  in  circumference.  It  is  defended  by  six 
towers.  The  town  has  two  gates,  on  the  Eastern 
and  South-Western  sides  ;  the  first  is  called 
"  Suv-Davsa,"  the  second  "Kum-Davsa"  (sandy). 
Owing  to  the  constant  dryness  of  the  atmosphere, 
the  streets  are  clean,  but  irregular  and  narrow ; 
two-wheeled  arabas  can  pass  only  through  the  two 
principal  ones.  The  houses  are  built  of  clay, 
excepting  four  religious  colleges  ("  medrese  "),  and 
one  sepulchral  chapel,  which  are  externally  coated 


150  Traveh  in  Central  Asia. 

with  glazed  tiles,  after  the  Chinese  fashion.  The 
town  is  divided  into  two  almost  equal  parts ;  the 
old  town,  or  "  Kune-Shahr,"  and  the  new,  or 
"  Yany-Kurgan,"  founded  by  the  ruler  Zurund-Beg 
in  1838.  The  old  town  is  situated  on  an  emi- 
nence, while  the  new  one  occupies  a  much  lower 
position.  The  centre  of  the  town  is  a  plain,  with 
the  chief  mosque  in  front  of  the  palace  of  the 
Hakim-Beg ;  while  the  market-place,  "  Aitga,"  is 
close  by.  The  old  town  is  divided  into  two 
quarters,  "  Charsu  "  and  "  Ambar-ichi ;"  and  the 
new  one  into  four  —  "  Urda-aldy,"  "  Ustan-bui," 
"  Yumalak-shahr,"  and  "  Andijan-kucha." 

In  Kashgar,  there  are  seventeen  "medreseh"  or 
rehgious  seminaries,  seventy  schools  ("mekteb"), 
eight  caravansarais,  and  two  other  market  places 
("  Aitga"  and  "  Charsu  ") ;  the  first-named  of  which 
is  in  front  of  the  chief  mosque,  the  second  in  the 
old  town.  Two  principal  streets  lined  with  butcher, 
cook,  and  barber-shops  and  artificers'  stalls,  lead 
from  the  two  gates  to  the  centre  square  or  Aitga. 
The  road  from  Aitga  Square  to  Charsu  is  covered 
in  by  an  awning,  and  constitutes  a  mart  or  bazaar. 
Foreign  merchants  occupy  the  shops  in  the  Sarai,  of 
which  the  more  famous  are, — 1,  Jnd/Jan-Sa,rai,  the 
largest,  situated  in  the  central  square,  and  in  which 


Municipal  Buildings  of  Kashgar.  151 

the  Kokan  custom-house  is  established  for  the 
clearance  of  foreign  goods ;  2,  Kunak-'^wdA,  within 
a  short  distance  of  the  former,  in  the  street  lead- 
ing from  the  Sand-Gates  to  Aitga ;  it  is  principally 
occupied  by  Margilans,  merchants  from  the  town 
of  Shakhrizebza  and  Afghans.  Of  other  Sarais,  all 
situated  in  the  above  streets,  the  best  known  are 
the  "  Urtu-tin  "-Sarai,  occupied  by  Bokharians  and 
Urtii-tin  Tadjiks,  the  Yarkend,  Akstl,  and  Jewish 
Sarais ;  besides  all  which  there  are  constant 
bazaars  held  near  the  "  Sand-Gate,"  one  for  the 
sale  of  cotton,  called  "  Pakhta "  bazaar,  and 
"  Gundan  "  for  the  wholesale  disposal  of  "  Daba." 
Cattle  are  sold  at  the  "  Gaichan,"  outside  the  walls 
at  the  Sand-Gates. 

There  is  a  "  Tynsa,"  "  Dynsa,"  or  police  sta- 
tion, and  a  jail  in  the  town,  as  also  a  further 
evidence  of  civilization,  in  the  shape  of  a  barrier,  or 
toll-gate  at  the  "  Gundan,"  at  which  the  tax  on 
Daba  is  collected.  Besides  these  public  ■  buildings 
and  places  of  resort,  there  are  two  ponds  and  a 
canal  (Usten)  running  through  the  whole  town.  One 
pond  lies  opposite  to  the  house  of  the  Hakim- 
Beg,  and  the  other  in  the  Djen-Molak-Shahr  quarter. 
Every  Friday  a  bazaar  is  held,  at  which  the  natives 
of  the   surrounding  villages  and  the  townspeople 


152  Traced  In  Central  Asia. 

exhibit  the  fruits  of  their  weekly  labour.  Of  the 
settlements  pertaining  to  the  Kashgar  district,  the 
following  lie  along  the  system  of  the  river  Artysh  : — 
1 .  A  group  of  settlements  called  JJstiin- Artysh 
(Upper  Artysh),  at  17  miles  N.  of  Kasghar ;  Aryn, 
a  small  settlement,  63  miles  (190  lis)  N.E.  of 
Kashgar ;  Saaran,  on  the  Termechuk  rivulet ;  Astyn- 
Artysh  (Lower  Artysh),  otherwise  Altyn-Artysh 
(golden),  40  miles  N.E.  of  Kashgar,  distinguished 
for  its  tomb  and  mosque  erected  over  the  grave  of 
Sultan  Sutuk-Bagrakham-Hasi,  whither  devout 
Mussulmen  repair  on  a  pilgrimage  ;  Kol-Tailak  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Artysh  and  Faizabad-Daria, 
88  miles  E.  of  Kashgar ;  BisMerim,  8  miles  N.E. 
of  the  same  town,  between  the  Artysh  and  Tumen 
livers.  Along  the  banks  of  the  Tumen  lie  the  settle- 
ments, Mushi,  47  miles  N.W.  of  Kashgar ;  Samen 
and  Toyuztash,  or  Dchan-Yan-Kurgan,  faubourgs 
around  Kashgar,  the  first  on  the  N.W.  the  second 
on  the  W.  side ;  Djinchke  and  Abhat,  8  miles  E. 
of  Kashgar,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tumen ;  Shap- 
tan,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Faizabad-Daria,  below 
the  junction  of  the  Tumen  with  the  Kizyl,  28 
miles  E.  of  Kasghar,  Avhere  there  is  a  ferry  ;  Faiza- 
bad,  a  large  settlement  at  a  distance  of  35  miles, 
on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Faizabad-Daria  ;  Yanshbat^  on 


Tombs  of  Mussulman  Saints  near  Kashgar.  153 

the  S.  bank  of  the  same  river,  opposite  Koitoalaka, 
10  miles  below  Faizabad.  The  settlements  along 
the  Kizyl,  are:  Tuguzak  at  17  miles ;  Tuzgum,  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  same  river,  6  miles  S.  of 
Kashgar.  The  Khan-Aryk  settlement  is  the 
abode  of  the  Alene-Akhund,  who  is  considered 
the  head  of  the  Black-Momitaineer  party,  27  miles 
S.E.  of  Kashgar,  on  the  river  Ussen  (Khanaryk, 
or  Yamanyar).  The  settlements  of  Burakhatai, 
Tlfal,  and  Tashmalyh  lie  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains, W.  of  Kashgar.  To  Taslimalyh,  the  distance 
is  estimated  at  120  miles  and  to  Burakhatai  40 
miles. 

Of  all  the  settlements  in  the  district  of  Kashgar, 
the  most  extensive  are:  Faizabad,  containing 
2,000  houses ;  Khan-Aryk  the  same  number ; 
Ustiln-Artysh  1 ,000  houses.  They  are  all  governed 
by  Hakims  (rulers),  and  have  their  own  Alene- 
Ahunds  or  Spiritual  Chiefs. 

A  bazaar  is  held  at  Faizabad  once  a  week,  on 
Mondays ;  at  Khan-Aryk  twice  a  week,  on  Sun- 
days and  Tuesdays. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Kashgar  there  are 
several  tombs  of  saints,  much  reverenced  by  the 
natives  and  other  Asiatics.  The  tomb  of  Appak- 
Hodja  is  the  best  building  throughout  the  whole 


154  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

of  the  Kashgar  district ;  it  is  situated  at  4  miles 
N.E.  of  the  town,  on  the.  left  bank  of  the  Tumen ; 
it  is  built  of  burnt  brick  and  decorated  externally 
and  internally  with  coloured  tiles ;  the  cornices  are 
composed  of  the  horns  of  the  moimtain  sheep, 
goat,  and  deer  brought  as  sacrifices,  while  flags  and 
standards  decorate  the  entrance  and  the  crypt 
itself.  A  large  mosque,  with  spheroidal  cupola  of 
handsome  proportions,  has  been  erected  close  to  the 
tomb  by  one  of  the  sons  of  the  Hodja. 

The  tomb  of  Ak-Mazar  and  Pojakhom-Hodja 
lies  on  the  road  to  Artysh,  at  seven  miles  from 
Kashgar.  In  the  town  itself  is  the  tomb  of  Ab- 
razyk-Kazi-Hodja,  among  many  others,  but  those 
we  have  mentioned  are  the  most  conspicuous.  The 
Chinese  Manchen  lies  4i  miles  S.  of  Kashgar,  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Kizyl  river,  surrounded  by  a 
wall  like  that  of  Kashgar,  with  two  gates  on  the  N. 
and  S.  sides.     Its  garrison  numbers  5,500  men. 

2.  Yavyshahr  Disiricl. — Yanyshahr  numbers 
8000  houses,  and  lies  at  about  forty-seven  miles  to 
the  south  of  Kashgar.  It  is  suiTounded  by  a  stone 
wall,  has  two  gates,  and  two  caravan-sarais.  The 
main  street  runs  from  the  Yarkend  gates  to  the 
house  of  the  Governor,  facing  which  is  a  pond  and 


Bescriplion  of  Yanyshahr  and  Yarkend.      155 

canal.  All  the  shops,  the  places  of  public  enter, 
tainment,  and  the  two  sarais  are  in  this  street.  The 
weekly  bazaar  is  held  on  Sundays,  outside  the 
town,  in  front  of  the  Kashgar  gates.  The  most 
notable  villages  of  this  district  are : — Laba,  at  a 
distance  of  ten  miles  from  Yanyshar  to  the  South, 
and  Terektek,  celebrated  for  the  hashish  it  pro- 
duces. The  notable  holy  places  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Yanyshahr  are,  Chilan-lyk  in  the  South-East, 
at  a  distance  of  ten  miles,  and  Mazar-bygim  at  the 
same  distance,  and  in  the  same  direction.  On  the 
road  to  Yarkend  there  is  a  garden  belonging  to 
Mazar-Bygim,  with  a  pond  in  which  the  lotus 
grows.  The  Chinese  town  lies  at  about  a  mile  to 
the  Westward,  and  its  garrison,  it  is  said,  amounts 
to  2000  men, 

3.  Yarkend  District. — Yarkend,  the  largest  town 
of  Eastern  Turkestan,  formerly  the  residence, 
first  of  the  Khans,  and  then  of  the  Hodjas,  stands 
between  the  branches  of  the  river  Yarkend-Daria, 
which  flows  out  of  the  Sarikul.  The  chief  super- 
intent  of  the  Southern  road — ^the  Amban-He-be, 
resides  in  the  Chinese  fortress  commanding  the 
town.  Yarkend  has  32,000  houses.  The  town  is 
surrounded  by  a  wall  eight  fathoms  in  height  and 


156  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

seventeen  miles  in  circumference,  with  four  gates.  It 
has  four  sarais,  seventy  medreehs,  or  religious  semi- 
naries, and  one  Ti/nsa  (police  station)  near  the  great 
Registan  Mosque.  All  the  shops,  taverns,  sarais, 
and  the  Charsu  market-place  are  situated  in  the 
chief  street  leading  from  the  gates  of  Altyn-davsha 
to  those  of  Kabagat.  The  most  noted  quarters  of 
the  town  are  those  of  "  Urda-Aldy-Soka-Kul,"  the 
place  of  residence  of  the  Cashmerians  and  Hindoos, 
and  the  "  Aksakal,"  or  quarter  inhabited  by  the 
Badakhshans  and  Andianis.  The  most  remarkable 
buildings  are  the  Palace  of  Hakim-Beg,  near  the 
Khotan  gate,  and  the  Eegistan,  an  ancient  mosque 
with  a  minaret.  A  bazaar  is  held  every  evening  at 
seven  o'clock,  in  the  street  that  runs  from  the 
Registan  to  the  pond  of  Nas-Hodja-Kul.  The 
weekly  bazaar,  on  Fridays,  takes  place  between  the 
Chinese  citadel  and  the  town.  Quite  a  street  has 
lately  sprung  up  between  the  Altyn  gates  and  those 
of  the  Chinese  citadel,  where  houses  of  refreshment 
have  been  established;  and  indeed  all  the  com- 
mercial activity  of  the  place  may  be  said  to  be 
concentrated  in  this  single  quarter. 

The  foreigners  who  reside  in  this  town  are 
chiefly  Badakshanis,  who  have  their  own  elder, 
and  carry  on  a  trade  in  Cashmere  slaves.  Amongst 


Settlements  in  the  Province  of  Yarhend.     1B7 

the  inhabitants  there  are  besides  many  Baltis  from 
Little  Thibet,  a  class  who  hire  themselves  out  to 
labour,  and  comprise  nearly  all  the  drivers  and  water- 
camera. 

The  neighbourhood  of  Yarkend  is  infested  by 
many  liberated  slaves  of  the  mountain  Tajek  tribes 
of  Chitral  and  Vakhan,  who  are  known  here  under 
the  general  appellation  of  "  Bofiz."  The  most 
important  villages  or  settlements  lying  on  the 
Northern  boundary  of  the  Yarkend  district 
are  : — 

Burchuk,  at  two  hundred  and  fifty-seven  miles 
from  Yarkend,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Yarkend- 
Daria  with  the  Tarim ;  and  Marcd-Bashi,  peopled  by 
Dolons,  who  are  governed  by  their  own  Hakim- 
Beg,  with  a  Chinese  garrison  of  300  men.  To 
the  West  of  Yarkend  lies  the  village  (rf  Sarikal, 
near  Lake  Sarikul.  The  elevated  nature  of  this 
district,  and  the  cool  atmosphere  which  always 
prevails  here,  are  favourable  to  the  successful 
breeding  of  Thibet  cows.  To  the  South,  at  the 
base  of  the  Kuen-Lun,  near  the  point  of  which  the 
Tyznab  issues  from  among  the  mountains,  is  the 
settlement  of  Yangi  Chunjjah.  On  the  road  from 
Khotan  to  Yarkend  is  situated  the  well-known 
trading  settlement  of  Guma,  at  one  hundred  and 


1 5S  Travels  i/i  Central  M 


sia. 


thirty-three  miles  from  Yarkend.  It  numbers  two 
hundred  houses,  and  has  a  bazaar  every  Saturday. 
In  the  lower  ranges  of  the  Kuen-Lun  mountains 
are  the  village  Sanchja  and  liilyan,  in  high  repute 
for  their  extensive  breeding  establishments  of 
Mongolian  cows.  The  settlements  occurring  along 
the  Tyznabu  river  are  -. — Taghui,  Kitl'yar, 
Yularjjk,  and  Kargalyk,  all  of  which  have  their  own 
Hakim-Begs.  Of  these  villages,  Kargalyk,  or 
Kargally,  has  three  hundred  and  fifty  houses,  and 
grows  a  great  quantity  of  walnuts,  a  thousand  of 
which  may  be  purchased  for  about  one  shilling 
English.  There  are  several  tombs  round  Yarkend  ; 
among  others,  that  of  Hodja  Mahomed-Shirif  Pir, 
Altyn-Mazaz,  and  the  temple  of  the  holy  hair 
(Mui- Mubarak),  together  with  the  highly  venerated 
sanctuary,  of  Aftu-Moodan,  situated  inside  the 
town. 

The  Chinese  fortress  lies  to  the  West,  at  about 
one  mile  and  a  half  from  the  Mahomedan  town  ; 
it  is  surrounded  by  a  wall,  which  is  both  thicker 
and  higher  than  that  of  Kashgar.  The  gamson 
consists  of  2,200  men. 

4  Khoian  District. — Khotan,  or  "  Iltsa,"  accor- 
ding to  the  Chinese,    lies  between  the  Karakash 


Statistics  of  KJiotan  Bistricl  and  Trade.    159 

and  Yurunkash  rivers  ;  it  is  suxrounded  by  a  low 
wall,  and  has  eight  sarais,  of  which  three  are  occu- 
pied by  foreign  merchants,  the  others  being  used 
by  traders  from  Ilchi,  Karakash,  and  Yurunkash. 
The  number  of  houses  is  computed  at  18,000. 
The  Chinese  town  lies  at  I3  miles  to  the  West  of 
it,  with  a  garrison  of  1,400  men.  The  neighbour- 
hood of  the  town  is  embellished  with  gardens,  and 
the  space  between  Khotan  and  the  Chinese  town 
is  very  thickly  peopled.  A  road  in  which,  like 
that  at  Yarkend,  all  the  trade  is  concentrated,  leads 
from  the  one  to  the  other.  Khotan  is  famous 
for  rearing  silkworms,  for  its  manufactures  of  thin 
felts,  carpets,  a  semi-sUked  material  called 
"mashru,"  fine  "biazi,"  and  a  silk  stuff  called 
"  darai."  A  species  of  nephrite,  considered  the 
best,  is  obtained  in  the  river  Yurunkash,  and 
despatched  thence  to  Pekin.  The  most  remarkable 
settlements  are :  IleJd,  adjoining  the  Eastern 
extremity  of  the  district;  Karakash,  Yurunkash, 
and  others.  These  settlements  have  a  considerable 
population,  and  are  well-known  as  places  of 
commerce. 

5  Aksu  District. — The  town    of   Aksu  contains 
12,000  houses;  and  is  situated   at  the  confluence 


J  60  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

of  the  Aksu  and  Kokshal.  It  is  surrounded  by  a 
wall  considerably  smaller  in  circumference  tlian 
that  of  Kashgar,  but  has  four  gates. 

In  Aksii  there  are  six  caravansarais.  The 
"  Charsu"  Square  forms  the  centre  of  the  town, 
whence  the  chief  streets,  lined  with  shops  and 
houses  of  refreshment,  lead  Westwards  to  the 
Teinurchi  gates,  and  Eastwards  to  the  Aksil  gates. 
There  are  five  medreseh  in  the  town.  A  bazaar  is 
held  twice  a  week,  on  Thursdays  and  Fridays. 
Aksii  is  noted  as  being  the  centre  point  of  the 
Chinese  trade,  and  is  no  less  important  in  military 
respects,  as  the  main  roads  from  Central  China 
and  Hi  meet  within  its  walls.  Besides  these 
general  claims,  Aksu  is  well  known  for  its  produc- 
tion of  "  Daba"  of  a  good  quality,  called  "  Shisha," 
and  leather,  both  of  which  are  exported  to  Khotan, 
Yarkend,  and  Kashgar.  To  the  Aksu  district 
belongs  the  settlement  of  Bai  (in  Chinese,  "  Pai"), 
137  miles  distant  to  the  North-East,  famous  for  its 
sheep-farming  and  manufacture  of  felts ;  it  has  500 
houses.  Twenty-seven  miles  East  of  Bai,  on  the 
frontier  of  the  Kuchi  district,  lies  Sairam,  garri- 
soned by  Chinese.  Of  the  settlements  nearest 
to  Aks^,  the  most  important  are,  Kum-Bash  and 


Ush-Ti/rfaji  Difttrid  described.  161 

A  Chinese  fortress,  with  four  gates,  is  situated  at 
about  two-thirds  of  a  mile  West  of  Aksu.  A  great 
many  Chinese  merchants  from  the  province  of 
Shansi  live  at  Aksu,  besides  camel-drivers,  who  are 
for  the  most  part  Chinese  Mussulmen.  The  garri- 
son consists  of  600  men. 

6.  Ush-Turfan  District. — Ush-Turfan,  a  small 
town,  or  properly  settlement,  consists  of  scattered 
habitations  ;  possessing  neither  walls  nor  fortresses. 
It  is  said  to  have  forty  Yuz-Begis,  or  centurion  chiefs, 
consequently  about  4000  houses  ;  but  according  to 
other  sources  6000.  A  bazaar  is  held  on 
Sundays.  It  has  neither  mosques  nor  medresehs. 
Ush-Turfan  is  known  for  its  trade  in  cattle,  and  for 
the  excellent  tobacco  it  produces,  which  is  exported 
to  the  Kirghiz  Hordes.  In  historical  respects,  this 
town  has  acquired  a  celebrity  from  the  fact,  that  in 
1765,  during  an  insurrection,  all  the  inhabitants 
were  murdered,  and  500  families  from  various 
native  towns  settled  in  it,  who  were  compelled  to 
become  agricultural  labourers  {to)-onchi).  A 
Chinese  citadel  occupies  the  centre  of  the  Mussul- 
man settlement ;  it  has  four  gates,  and  its  walls 
on  the  North  side  abut  on  a  rock  ;  it  is  considered 
strongly  fortified,  and  is  garrisoned  by  800  men. 

M 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Altyshah  r. — Historical  Bevieiv. 

The  natural  features  of  Eastern  Turkestan,  exposed, 
as  we  have  just  seen,  on  the  East  and  hemmed  in 
by  colossal  mountain  ranges  on  the  West,  have 
materially  influenced  the  historial  march  of  events, 
and  given  a  distinct  character  to  Turkestan  nation- 
ality. 

From  remote  times,  as  far  back  as  the  period  of 
the  Tan  dynasty,  which  flourished  in  China  two 
centuries  before  the  Christian  era,  when  Djan- 
Tsian,  or  Djan-Kian,  discovered  the  Western 
region,  up  to  the  present  time.  Eastern  Turkestan 
has  been  under  continual  subjection  either  to  China, 
or  to  one  or  the  other  of  the  wandering  Hordes  who 
were  for  the  time  being  dominant  in    Mongolia. 


Early  Introduction  of  Buddhism.  1(53 

On  the  other  hand  it  never  succumbed  to  the 
political  influence  of  its  Western  neighbours, — not 
even  to  the  celebrated  conqueror  of  Asia, — Tamer- 
lane, who,  although  he  marched  victoriously  through 
the  country,  did  not  succeed  in  subjugating 
it. 

Eastern  Turkestan  adopted  the  rudiments  of 
religious  vrorship,  first  from  the  South  and  after- 
wards from  the  West.  The  date  of  the  introduction 
of  Buddhism  into  this  country  cannot  be  definitely 
fixed  ;  according  to  the  evidence  of  Chinese  writers 
it  akeady  existed  there  during  the  Kan  dynasty. 
In  A.D.  140  the  towns  of  Eastern  Ttukestan  formed 
independent  states  and  professed  Buddhism. 
Huen-Chan,  who  visited  them  during  the  Tan 
dynasty,  a.d.  629,  found  that  religion  generally 
prevalent  there,  and  propounded  in  temples  by 
priests  and  "  Arans,"  or  holy  hermits.  It  con- 
tinued to  hold  its  own  until  the  ntuth  century, 
when  it  was  driven  out  by  Islamism,  which  spread 
from  Mavero-Innahar  through  the  Bolor  and  Thian- 
Shan.  The  social  institutions  of  Eastern  Turkestan 
became  naturally  imbued  with  the  spirit  of  Islam 
laws,  but  ovsdng  to  the  force  of  counteracting 
causes,  these  institutions  did  not  assume  an  ex- 
clusively religious  character.     Islamism  has  never- 

M    2 


1 64  Drivels  in  Central  Asia. 

theless  exercised  considerable  influence  over  the 
political  fate  of  the  country.  It  is  only  by  closely 
studying  its  introduction  and  development,  that  a 
proper  appreciation  of  the  spirit,  organisation,  and 
signification  of  the  present  political  factions  of 
Turkestan  can  be  obtained,  and  a  true  cause  as- 
signed for  the  moral  influence  of  the  Hodjas,  who, 
even  in  exile,  retain  their  political  weight. 

It  was  only  natural  that  after  so  long  a  pre- 
dominance of  Buddhism,  the  doctrines  of  Mahomet 
should  not  speedily  take  root.  They  penetrated 
into  Eastern  Turkestan  during  the  eighth  century, 
when  Arabian  merchants  first  began  to  visit  this 
region,  but  it  is  a  notable  fact  in  the  history  of 
this  particular  religious  movement  that  the  Arabs 
encountered  great  opposition  in  the  towns,  and 
that  their  first  converts  were  among  the  nomad 
population. 

The  Chinese  make  mention  of  a  sanguinary  war 
carried  on  by  the  Arabs  in  Eastern  Turkestan  during 
the  eighth  century.  Mussulman  historians  also  as- 
sert that  Shamar,  the  first  Arab  ruler  of  Mavero- 
Innahar,  was  killed  in  a  war  with  the  Chinese. 

In  the  ninth  century  several  Mussulmen 
preachers,  or  religious  propagandists,  among  the 
most  renowned  ofwhomwere,  Sheikh-Hassan-Bosri 


Islamism  introduced  in  Eastern  Turkestan.    165 

and  Abunassart-Samani,  succeeded  in  converting 
to  Islamism  the  Khans  of  the  wandering  Hordes, 
then  in  possession  of  the  towns  of  Eastern  Tur- 
kestan, and  who  had  not  long  before  overthrown 
the  dominion  of  the  Samanides. 

These  converts,  animated  with  all  the  enthusiasm 
of  new  believers,  commenced  by  inculcating  sword 
in  hand  the  teaching  of  Mahomet.  The  tombs  of 
the  Turkestan  rulers  of  that  period  still  preserve 
the  title  of  "  Hazi,"  or  Warrior  for  the  Faith.  One 
of  these,  Sutuk-Bukhra-Khan,  who  died  in  the 
year  429  of  the  Hegira,  a.d.  1051,  carried  the 
Hazat,  or  religious  war,  into  Turfan  and  Komul. 
The  extensive  grounds  near  Khotan,  used  exclusively 
for  putting  to  death  the  professors  of  the  old  reli- 
gion, as  also  those  between  Yarkend  and  Yanyshar, 
locally  called  "  Shaidan,"  or  resting  places  of  the 
happy,  bear  mournful  testimony  to  the  fact  that, 
here  as  everywhere  else,  the  establishment  of  Islam- 
ism was  accompanied  with  the  most  merciless 
carnage.  Nevertheless  its  domination  was  long 
confined  to  the  Western  towns.  According  to 
the  evidence  of  Marco  Polo,  the  inhabitants  were 
idolators  in  the  eighth  century.  About  the  same 
period,  an  independent  state  was  founded  in 
Eastern  Turkestan,  under  the  sway  of  Mongolian 


166  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

Khans  of  the  Djegatai  dynasty,  under  whom  the 
Pagan  element  again  Hfted  up  its  head. 

Although  Tugluk-Timur-Khan,  a  descendant  of 
Ghenghiz-Khan,  who  possessed  the  country  from 
Hi  to  the  Bolor  and  Kuen-Lun,  embraced  Islamism 
at  the  hands  of  Seid-Rasheddin,*  anno  754  of  the 
Hegirto,  or  a.d.  1376,  and  induced  many  Mongolian 
and  Uigur  Emirs  to  follow  his  example.  Buddhism 
was  still  the  prevailing  form  of  religion,  during  the 
succeeding  century,  in  all  the  Eastern  towns.  The 
embassy  sent  by  Shah-Rok  a  son  of  Tamerlane,  to 
China  in  1420,  found  in  Khamil  a  heathen  temple 
adjoining  a  magnificent  mosque.  It  was  not  be- 
fore the  sixteenth  century  that  Mohammedism 
finally  succeeded  in  expelling  Buddhism  from  the 
confines  of  Eastern  Turkestan. 

The  Mussulman  religion  must  be  considered  to 
have  been  predominant  in  the  Western  part  of  this 
region  since  the  fourteenth  century.  The  succes- 
sors of  Tugluk-Tiraur-Khan  were  zealous  Mussul- 
man, and  granted  to  the  descendants  of  Rasheddin 
special  honours  and  privileges,  bestowing  on  them 
likewise  tracts  of  rich  land. 

The  fourteenth  and  fifteenth  centuries  became 
important,  in  the   history  of  Central  Asiatic  Is- 

*  Seid-Sheik,  a  descendant  of  Mahomet. 


Rise  of  the  Power  of  the  Hodjas.        167 

lamism,  by  the  appearance  of  many  teachers  who 
acquired  the  reputation  of  saints,  or  workers  of 
miracles.  Samarkand  and  Bokhara  were  the 
centres  of  the  religious  learning  of  the  East,  and 
the  casuistry  that  sprang  up  there  at  last  reached 
Kashgar.  One  of  the  Seids,  descendants  of 
Mahomet,  Hodja-Makhturmi-Aziam,  gained  great 
celebrity,  in  Bokhara,  as  a  theologian.  On 
arriving  at  Kashgar,  he  was  received  with  great 
enthusiasm,  and  was  presented  with  rich  estates 
by  the  Kashgar  Khans.  After  his  death,  his 
sons,  Imam-Kalian  and  Hodja- Isaac- Vali,  enjoyed 
the  same  respect,  and  became  the  religious  heads 
of  the  Mussulmen  of  Eastern  Turkestan. 

Erom  this  time  the  Hodjas  commenced  to  grow 
in  the  estimation  of  the  people.  They  received 
honours  from  the  Khans,  and  were  profoundly 
respected  by  the  natives.  Each  of  the  two  sons 
of  Hodja-Makhturmi-Aziam  was  surrounded  by  a 
crowd  of  disciples,  as  well  as  by  numerous  fanatical 
Suffis  (Naibs),  Duvans  (Dervishes),  and  pupils. 
In  this  way  two  parties  were  gradually  formed, 
differing  not  so  much  on  doctrinal  points,  as  in 
the  character  and  qualities  of  their  respective 
heads.  The  followers  of  Imam-Kalian  were  called 
Ishkias,  and  those  of  Isaac- Vali  styled  themselves 


168  Tfftrvlx  ill  Central  Asia. 

Isakias.  Subsequently  the  first  appropriated  to 
themselves  the  name  of  Mont- Albanians,  or  White 
Mountaineers ;  and  the  second,  Montenegrins,  or 
Black  Mountaineers,  which  distinctions  have  sur- 
vived to  the  present  day. 

Soon  after  the  formation  of  these  parties,  inimi- 
cal feelings  sprang  up  between  them,  which  at 
first  partook  of  a  religious  character;  but  when 
the  adherents  of  both  parties  increased  in  numbers, 
and  all  the  population  split  into  two  rival  camps, 
to  religious  dissensions  there  naturally  was  speedily 
added  a  struggle  for  political  power.  This  rivalry 
openly  declared  itself  when  Hodja  Appak,  head  of 
the  Mont -Albanian  party,  assisted  by  the  Dzunga- 
rians,  acquired  supreme  secular  power,  and  thereby 
ultimately  deprived  Eastern  Turkestan  of  its  in- 
dependence. 

The  Dzungarians  and  Chinese,  taking  advantage 
of  the  dissensions  of  the  contending  parties, 
adopted  the  policy  of  supporting  one  against  the 
other,  and  thus  eventually  succeeded  in  sub- 
jugating the  whole  country. 

Appak- Hodja  was  much  esteemed  by  the 
people  ;  the  high  reputation  of  the  teacher  and 
saint  attracted  to  Kashgar  the  Mussulman  youth 
of  the  East,  who  were  eager  to  follow  his  foot- 


Parti/  Politics  in  Turkestan.  169 

steps  in  the  path  of  sanctity ;  and  many  rulers 
of  Mavero-Innahar  even  were  numbered  among 
his  scholars.  His  tomb  at  Kashgar  to  this  day 
attracts  many  pilgrims  from  various  Mussulman 
countries;  and  the  Eastern  Turkestani,  who  regard 
him  as  their  own  peculiar  patron,  call  upon  his 
name  in  moments  of  peril. 

The  Kashgar  Khan  Ismail,  a  zealous  supporter 
of  the  Black  Mountaineer  party,  drove  Appak 
from  his  native  country;  the  Hodja  retired  to  Cash- 
mere, whence  he  proceeded  into  Thibet,  where  he 
so  ingratiated  himself  with  the  Dalai-Lama,  that 
the  latter  despatched  him  with  a  letter  to  Galdan 
of  Dzungaria,  requesting  the  latter  to  re-estabhsh 
the  authority  of  Appak  in  Kashgar  and  Yarkend. 

Galdan,  seizing  this  opportunity,  conquered 
Little  Bokhara  in  1678,  and  appointed  Appak 
his  viceroy,  with  Yarkend  for  his  capital.  The 
family  of  the  Kashgar  Khan  was  carried  by 
Galdan  into  captivity  in  the  Hi  region,  and  settled 
in  the  Mussulman  town  of  Kuldja. 

The  Dalai-Lama  was  so  satisfied  with  the  obe- 
dience of  Galdan,  that  he  conferred  on  him  the 
title  oi  Boshektu  (Blessed). 

From  this  time  Little  Bokhara,  until  its  con- 
quest by  the  Chinese,  was  ruled  by  the   Dzun- 


170  IVavels  in  Central  Asia. 

garians,  who  did  not  interfere  with  the  internal 
administration  of  the  country,  but  limited  them- 
selves to  receiving  a  tribute  of  400,000  tiangas 
per  month.  The  government,  from  a  remote 
period,  was  carried  on  by  the  same  heirarchy  as 
at  present ;  each  town  had  its  Hakim  or  ruler, 
with  an  Islikaga  or  assistant,  Shanbegis,  Haz- 
notchis,  &c.  The  internal  strife  and  dissensions 
of  parties  still  continued,  with  the  result  that, 
although  the  Black  Mountaineer  Hodjas  were  very 
rich  and  powerful,  they  were  nevertheless  obliged 
to  leave  Yarkend,  and  take  up  their  abode  tempo- 
rarily in  Cashmere. 

Hodja-Appak,  in  order  to  reinstate  himself  in 
the  good  opinion  of  the  Mussulmen,  who  now 
regarded  him  as  the  betrayer  of  his  coimtry,  had 
to  renounce  his  secular  power.  He  summoned 
his  brother,  Khan-Ismail-Muhamed-Emil,  from 
Ush-Turfan,  proclaimed  him  Khan,  and  prevailed 
on  him  to  attack  the  Dzungarians.  Muhamed- 
Emil  fell  on  the  Kalmyk  "  ulusses  "  or  camps,  and 
retm-ned  with  30,000  prisoners  of  both  sexes, 
and  a  great  quantity  of  cattle  and  booty  ;  but  was 
afterwards  so  frightened  at  his  own  intrepidity, 
that  he  fled  to  the  mountains,  where  he  was  killed 
by  one  of  his  own  guides. 


Wars  of  the  Rival  Factions.  171 

Appak  then  resumed  the  temporal  power.  On 
his  death,  his  widow,  Khanym-Padsha,  a  woman 
of  determined  and  ambitious  character,  wishing  to 
secure  the  supreme  authority  for  her  favourite  son, 
Mekhdi,  enlisted  in  her  cause  some  fanatical  der- 
vishes, and  killed  Appak's  eldest  son,  Hodja 
Yakhia,  whose  infant  son,  Ahmed-Padsha,  sought 
refuge  in  the  mountains.  Khanym-Padsha  herself 
was  murdered  shortly  after  by  the  dervishes. 

Taking  advantage  of  the  discord  in  the  family  of 
Appak,  Akbash — another  brother  of  the  late  Hodja 
— made  himself  Khan  of  Yarkend,  and  recalled  the 
Black  Mountaineer,  Hodja  Daniel,  from  Khodjend, 
where  he  resided.  The  Kashgarians,  who  were 
firm  adherents  to  the  White  Mountaineer  cause,  in- 
vited Ahmed- Hodja  among  them,  and  proclaimed 
him  Khan. 

An  obstinate  and  sanguinary  struggle  now  broke 
out  between  Kashgar  and  Yarkend.  The  Kash- 
garians, assisted  by  the  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes,  be- 
sieged Yarkend,  with  the  object  of  seizing  Daniel 
Hodja.  Ashem-Khan,  of  Yarkend,  a  Kirghiz 
Sultan  by  origin,  totally  defeated  them ;  but  was 
himself  soon  afterwards  forced  to  withdraw  to  his 
Steppe,  in  consequence  of  the  intrigues  of  the 
Hodjas.     The  secular  government  of  the  towns  of 


172  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

Yarkend  and  Khotan  then  fell  into  the  hands  of 
Daniel-Hodja. 

At  this  time  the  Kalmyks,  who  had  not  been 
able  until  then  to  resent  the  inroads  of  the  Kash- 
garians,  arrived  at  Yarkend  with  a  large  force. 
Daniel,  with  the  view  of  gaining  the  favour  of  the 
Dzungarians,  joined  their  troops,  with  all  his  Yark- 
endians,  and  the  united  forces  forthwith  marched 
upon  Kashgar.  After  several  encounters,  the 
Kashgarians  were  obhged  to  open  their  gates. 
The  Kalmyks  appointed  a  Hakim-Beg,  chosen  by 
the  people,  and  led  away  the  Kashgar  Hodja 
Ahmed,  their  own  ally,  Daniel-Hodja,  and  the  fa- 
milies of  both,  prisoners  to  the  Ili. 

In  1720,  Tzaban-Raptan  restored  Daniel  to  his 
native  country,  and  made  him  ruler  over  the  six 
towns.  On  his  arrival  at  Yarkend  the  Hodja  ap- 
pointed governors  over  the  towns  entrusted  to  him, 
and  fixed  his  own  revenue  at  the  modest  rate  of 
100,000  tiangas,  that  of  Appak  having  been  1000 
tiangas  from  eveiy  hundred  of  his  subjects.  His 
eldest  son,  Djagan,  was  a  hostage  with  the  Dzun- 
garian  Khans,  and  Daniel  himself  paid  occasional 
visits  to  Ili. 

Galdan-Chirin,  on  succeeding  to  the  throne,  con- 
firmed the  Hodja  Daniel  in  the  enjoyment  of  his 


History  of  the  Jirovement  for  Independence.  173 

former  privileges.  The  immediate  sway  over 
Little  Bokhara  vs^as,  therefore,  as  the  next  result 
of  these  changes,  transferred  to  the  descendants  of 
Hodja  Isaac ;  or,  in  other  vrords,  the  Black  Moun- 
taineer party. 

After  the  death  of  Daniel,  Galdan-Chirin — with 
the  view  of  dividing  the  government  of  Little  Bok- 
hara, issued  sealed  patents  to  his  children,  appor- 
tioning Yarkend  to  the  eldest,  Hodja-Djagan  ; 
Kashgar  to  the  second,  Yusuf ;  Aksii  to  the  third, 
Ayub  ;  and  Khotan  to  the  youngest,  Abdullah.  The 
most  celebrated  of  these  was  Yusuf,  ruler  of  Kash- 
gar, whose  mother  was  the  daughter  of  a  Kalmyk 
Noyon,  with  whom  Yusuf  spent  his  childhood,  in 
Dzungaria,  and  thereby  acquired  a  thorough  mastery 
over  the  Kalmyk  language,  which  he  spoke  and 
wrote  with  much  facility. 

Yusuf,  who  had  been  compelled  by  the  Khan 
Davatsi  to  reside  in  the  province  of  Hi,  seeing  the 
dissensions  that  at  that  period  convulsed  Dzungaria, 
determined  to  take  advantage  of  the  weakness  of 
his  oppressors,  and  to  liberate  his  country.  Under 
the  pretence  that  Kashgar  was  threatened  by  the 
Dikokamenni  Kirghizes,  he  obtained  the  Khan 
Davatsi's  permission  to  return  to  his  native  place. 
Here  he  put  forth  all  his  energies  for  the  purpose. 


174  Travels  ill  Central  Ami. 

first,  of  fortifying  tlie  town  ;  and  secondly,  of 
raising  and  organizing  an  army  with  all  possible 
speed.  This  was  in  1754,  when  Amursana  ap- 
plied to  the  Bogd-Khan  for  troops,  to  subdue  the 
Dzungarians.  The  Kalmyks  had  latterly  appointed 
Hakim  Begs,  on  whose  fidelity  they  could  rely, 
and  who  were  bound  to  them  by  the  tie  of  common 
ambition.  Two  of  these,  Abdul- Vakhab,  of  Aksu, 
and  Khodja  Sybek,  of  Ush-Turfan,  acquainted  the 
Kalmyks  with  the  real  cause  of  the  warlike  prepa- 
rations at  Kashgar.  They  also  incited  Hudoyar- 
Beg,  islihaga  of  Kashgar,  and  Absatar-Beg,  of 
Artosh,  to  fall  upon  the  Hodja,  and  put  him  to 
death,  while  at  his  devotions  in  the  Mechet ;  but 
this  plot  was  discovered,  and  its  chief  instrument, 
Hudoyar-Beg,  executed.  Absatar  and  the  son  of 
Hudoyar  made  their  escape  to  Hi ;  and,  appearing 
before  Davatsi,  declared  that  the  inhabitants  of 
Kashgar  and  Yarkend  had  thrown  off  the  Dzun- 
garian  yoke,  and  that  the  Hodja  had  put  the  Ishkaga 
to  death  for  his  fidelity  to  the  Dzungarians.  The 
Kalmyks  had  not  at  that  time  a  force  at  their  dis- 
posal, and  Davatsi  therefore  determined  to  send  an 
emissary  to  ascertain  the  true  position  of  affairs. 
The  design  formed  by  the  Kalmyks,  of  seizing  the 
Hodja  in   Kashgar,   was  thus  frustrated ;    but   at 


Outbreak  of  the  Revolution.  175 

Yarkend,  assisted  by  the  Hakim,  Hazi-Beg,  they 
succeeded  in  arresting  the  Hodja  Djagan,  after 
having  enticed  him  into  the  Hakim's  house. 

This  inteUigence  was  received  with   a  violent 
outburst    of    indignation    at     Kashgar.       Yusuf 
assembled  the  people   and   informed    them  that 
the   time   had   now    arrived   for   shaking   off  the 
thraldom  of  the  unbelievers,  and  represented    to 
them  the  hopeless  condition  of  Dzungaria.     This 
appeal  was  received  with   enthusiasm.     Timbrels 
were  sounded  over  the  gates  of  the  town,  and  the 
Kashgarians  swore   to  remain   true   to    their  de- 
termination of  reconquering   the   lost  liberties  of 
their  country.     The  Hodja  Yussuf,  as  an  ardent 
Mussulman,   proposed  to  the   people    that    they 
should  convert  three  hundred  Kalmyk  merchants, 
who  lay  encamped  in  the  vicinity  of  the  tovni,  to 
Islamism,  and  ordered  them  to  be  slaughtered  in 
case  they  refused  to  adopt  it.     A  small  number  of 
Olots,  who  acted  as  police  officers  or  "  kazakans  " 
in  the  towns  of  Little  Bokhara,  were  sent  back  to 
their  country  to  acquaint  the  Khan  of  Dzungaria 
with  what  had  occurred.     Yusuf  then  despatched 
one  thousand   men   to    Burchuk,   to   attack    the 
Kalmuk   envoy,   in    case   he   should   attempt    to 
carry  off  the  Hodja  Djagan  to  Hi,  and  also  made 


170  Travels  in  Coiiral  Asia. 

preparations  for  sending  a  large  force  to  Yarkend. 
Hodja  Sadyk,  son  of  Djagan,  who  had  eluded 
capture,  gathered  together  7000  men  in  two  days, 
at  Khotan  ;  and,  joined  by  a  body  of  Kirghizes, 
marched  against  Yarkend.  He  carried  with  him 
the  family  of  Hazi-Beg  in  chains,  intending  to  put 
every  individual  of  it  to  torture  and  death  should 
harm  befal  his  father.  Hazi-Beg,  learning  their 
fate,  and  the  decided  steps  taken  by  Yusuf, 
was  thoroughly  distracted;  and  his  position  was 
all  the  more  critical  that  the  Yarkendians  openly 
exhibited  their  discontent  at  his  conduct.  His 
only  alternative  was,  therefore,  to  ask  pardon  of 
Hodja  Djagan,  an  extremely  kind  and  weak  man. 
With  tears  in  his  eyes  and  the  Koran  on  his  head, 
he  appeared  before  him,  and  easily  obtained 
forgiveness.  Hazi  then  informed  Djagan  of  the 
events  that  had  transpired  at  Kashgar,  and  asked 
permission  to  kill  the  Dzungarian  envoy  and  his 
retinue,  and  to  raise  the  standard  of  Islam.  The 
Hodja  answered  that  an  unbeliever  could  only  be 
killed  in  battle,  and  ordered  the  Kalmyks  to  be 
escorted  out  of  the  town  under  a  strong  guard, 
warning  them  never  to  visit  the  country  again. 

Yusuf  in  the  meanwhile  sent,   ambassadors   to 
Kokan  and  Bokhara,  to  acquaint  those  cities  of 


Subjugation  of  Bziaigaria  by  the  Chinese.    177 

their  emancipation  from  the  Dzungarian  yoke,  and 
to  request  assistance.  He  hkewise  appealed  to  the 
Chiefs  of  the  Andijan  Kirghizes,  at  the  head  of 
whom  was  Kibat-Mirza. 

The  independence,  however,  of  the  three  towns 
was  not  of  long  duration.  Events  occurred  at  this 
time  in  Dzungaria,  which  exercised  an  important, 
indeed  decisive  influence  over  Little  Bokhara. 

In  1775,  Amursana  appeared  in  Dzungaria, 
at  the  head  of  Chinese  troops,  before  whom 
Davatsi,  unable  to  offer  effectual  resistance,  fled 
with  three  hundred  men  through  the  Muzart  pass 
to  Ush-Turfan.  The  governor  of  that  town, 
Hodjam-Beg,  delivered  him  up  to  the  Chinese,  for 
which  service  he  was  created  a  prince. 

In  this  manner  Dzungaria,  after  having  been  for 
so  long  a  time  the  terror  of  the  neighbouring  States, 
as  well  as  a  source  of  danger  to  the  Chinese,  was 
subdued  by  them  without  any  opposition. 

The  troops  of  the  Celestial  Empire  returned 
after  the  first  campaign,  leaving  behind  at  Ili, 
their  General,  Bandi,  with  five  hundred  Manchurs, 
to  organize  a  new  system  of  government  with  the 
co-operation  of  Amursana.  Amursana,  having 
established  himself  at  Ili,  thought  of  again 
subjugating   the  emancipated   towns  of  Kashgar 

N 


17S  Travels  ill  Central  Asia. 

Yarkend,  and  Khotan,  but  as  he  was  not  able  to 
send  against  them  a  large  body  of  troops,  the 
ruler  of  Aksii,  Abdul- Vahab,  and  Hodja  Sybek  of 
Ush-Turfan,  suggested  that  the  children  of  Ahmet- 
Hodja  of  Kashgar,  who  were  then  at  Hi,  should  be 
employed  for  this  purpose.  They  said  that  if  one 
of  Ahmed's  children  were  sent  with  a  small 
detachment,  and  with  the  promise  that  they 
should  be  made  rulers,  Kashgar  would  be  taken 
without  resistance,  that  the  other  towns  would 
likewise  surrender,  as  the  Kashgarians  were 
particularly  attached  to  these  Hodjas,  and  that 
their  adherents  in  the  other  towns  were 
numerous. 

With  the  consent  of  the  Chinese  General,  Bandi, 
the  sons  of  Ahmed,  Burhaneddin  and  Khan-Hodja, 
who  subsequently  obtained  a  melancholy  noto- 
riety in  Chinese  history,  were  summoned  to 
Kuldja  from  Iren-Habargan,  ^Yhere  they  lived  in 
exile.  The  eldest  of  these,  Burhaneddin,  marched 
with  an  army  consisting  of  Olots,  Turkestani,  and 
a  small  number  of  Chinese,  to  Aksii ;  while  the 
youngest,  Khan-Hodja,  remained  as  hostage  at 
Hi.  Burhaneddin  reinforced  his  army  at  AksA, 
and  proceeded  to  Ush,  where  he  was  joyfully 
received  by  the  inhabitants. 


Preparation  for  Battle  by  both  Sides.      179 

The  news  of  the  military  preparations  that  were 
being  made  by  the  Black  Mountaineer  Hodjas,  so 
frightened  Burhaneddin  and  his  confederates,  that 
they  delayed  their  farther  advance.  Their  force 
consisted  of  5000  Musselmen  from  Kucha,  Kksh, 
Turfan,  and  Dolon  ;  1 000  Dzungarians,  commanded 
by  the  Zaisan  Dan-Chin,  and  of  400  Chinese, 
headed  by  Turuntai-Dajen.  These  were  not  suf- 
ficient to  combat  the  numerous  armed  bands  of  Yark- 
end,  Kashgar,  Khotan,  and  Yanyshahr,  which  were 
strengthened  by  the  neighbouring  Kirghiz  Hordes. 

In  the  meantime  the  news  reached  Yarkend  of  the 
arrival  of  the  troops  at  Aksii.  The  inhabitants  of 
the  former  town  thereupon  resolved  to  despatch  a 
strong  force  against  them.  Yusuf-Hodja,  of 
Kashgar,  had  abdicated  his  power,  and  lived  then  in 
Yarkend.  He  strenuously  endeavoured  to  dissuade 
the  Yarkendians  from  their  intention,  urging  that 
Burhaneddin  would  not  attempt  to  proceed  far- 
ther, and  that  in  case  the  expedition  were  defeated, 
which,  seeing  the  Mont- Albanians  might  prove  false, 
and  the  Kirghizes  could  not  be  relied  on,  was 
very  far  from  improbable, — the  enemy  would  be 
encouraged  to  attempt  more  daring  and  important 
enterprises.  The  Yarkendians,  however,  stimulated 
by  a  love  for  their  Hodjas,  burned  with  impatience 

N   2 


180  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

to  marcli  to  AksA,  seize  the  town,  and  to  stifle  the 
machinations  of  the  White  Mountaineer  Hodjas  in 
the  bud.  A  numerous  force  of  Khotanians,  Yar- 
kendians,  and  Kirghizes,  commanded  by  Hodja- 
Ahi,  the  eldest  son  of  Djagan  Huda-Berdy,  as  also 
Shanbegi  of  Yarkend,  and  the  Kargalyk  ruler, 
Mirgus-Beg,  accordingly  directed  its  march  towards 
Yanyshahr,  and  being  joined  there  by  further  rein- 
forcements, proceeded  through  Artysh  along  the 
route  to  Ush. 

The  death  of  Yusuf  Hodja  occurred  in  the 
meantime.  Hodja  Abdulla  was  chosen  to  succeed 
him  as  ruler  of  Kashgar,  under  the  title  of  Pasha- 
Hodja,  after  having  been  lifted  on  a  carpet,  accord- 
ing to  the  custom  of  the  country,  and  at  once  pro- 
ceeded to  despatch  Kashgar  troops  under  the 
command  of  his  brother,  Hodja-Mulin,  to  the 
assistance  of  the  Yarkendians. 

The  united  forces  of  Kashgar,  Yanyshahr,  Yark- 
end, and  Khotan,  passing  through  Aksu  and 
Kakshal,  reached  Ush-Turfan  and  beseiged  that 
town.  The  Black  Mountaineer  Hodjas  sent  a  de- 
putation to  the  besieged,  calling  on  them  in  the 
name  of  the  Koran,  and  of  their  common  ances- 
tors, to  forget  all  animosity,  join  the  common  cause, 
and  march  altogether  to  Hi.     To  Burhaneddin  they 


Defeat,  by  Treachery,  of  the  Allied  Forces.  181 

promised  to  yield  possession  of  Kashgar,  Aksii,  and 
Turfan ;  and  the  Begs  were  offered  hereditary 
rights.  The  deputation  found  Burhaneddin  sur- 
rounded by  Chinese,  Kalmyks,  and  by  Begs,  whom 
native  writers  have  stigmatised  as  '  impious '  men. 
He  told  the  deputies  to  advise  the  Black  Mount- 
aineer Hodjas  to  repair  to  Hi  and  seek  forgiveness 
of  the  viceroy  of  the  Emperor  of  China,  and  of 
Amursana.  There  were  many  of  the  White 
Mountaineer  party  in  the  camp  of  the  besiegers, 
particularly  among  the  officers.  While  negotia- 
tions were  being  carried  on,  these  latter  entered 
into  secret  communication  with  Burhaneddin. 
The  Kirghizes,  in  the  first  action  that  was  fought, 
went  over  in  a  body  to  the  enemy,  and  were  shortly 
afterwards  followed  by  the  majority  of  the  Begs 
with  the  troops  under  their  command.  Ultimately 
it  was  with  great  difiiculty  that  the  leaders  alone  of 
the  expedition  escaped  capture  ;  they  were  pursued 
by  the  Kirghizes  to  the  very  gates  of  Kashgar. 
Burhaneddin,  encouraged  by  the  completeness  of  this 
unexpected  success,  pressed  forward  to  Kashgar. 
The  inhabitants  of  that  town  issued  out  in  crowds 
to  meet  him,  and  refused  to  obey  the  Black  Moun- 
taineer Hodjas,  to  crown  whose  misfortune,  the 
Andijan  Kirghizes,  summoned  under  the  leadership 


182  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

of  Kabat-Mirza  to  defend  the  town,  declared  that 
they  would  not  fight  againt  Burhaneddin. 

Under  these  circumstances,  the  Montenegrin 
Hodjas  were  obliged  to  evacuate  Kashgar;  on 
leaving  which  they  hastened  to  Yarkend,  while 
Hosh-Kaifiak,  Hakim-Beg  of  Kashgar,  and  a  par- 
tisan of  the  Black  Mountaineer  cause,  emigrated  to 
Kokan.  The  Mont- Albanian  Hodja  was  thus  admit- 
ted into  Kashgar  without  oppposition  and  greeted 
with  the  joyful  cries  of  the  populace,  who,  in  honour 
of  the  event,  sounded  drums  and  trumpets  over  the 
city  gates.  Burhaneddin  then  advanced  to 
Yarkend,  having  first  appointed  the  Kirghiz 
Kabada,  Plakim-Beg  of  Kashgar.  His  army  con- 
sisted only  of  600  Kalmyks,  and  200  Chinese.  The 
Montenegrin  Hodjas,  perceiving  all  the  danger  of 
their  situation,  resolved  to  quit  their  country,  and, 
under  pretence  of  a  pilgrimage  to  Mecca,  made 
preparations  for  departing  with  their  families. 

Hodja  Djagan  was  a  benevolent  and  an  upright 
man,  and  encouraged  learnmg.  His  reign  is  com- 
pared by  a  contemporary  writer  to  that  of  Mirza- 
Hussein.  The  Yarkendians  were  nearly  all  of  the 
Black  Mountain  faction,  and  the  private  virtues  of 
this  ruler  endeared  him  to  them  more  strongly. 
When  he  declared    his    iu+ention   of  leaving  the 


Fatally  facile  Tmiper  of  Hodja-JDjagan.    183 

country,  the  people  besought  him  with  tears  in 
their  eyes  not  to  abandon  them  at  such  a  critical 
juncture,  and  swore  to  defend  themselves  to  the 
last  against  the  infidels  and  the  impious  Mont- 
Albanians.  They  only  asked  for  the  dismissal  of 
Hazi-Beg,  the  Hakim,  and  of  Niazi  the  "  Ishkaga," 
as  the  former  had  already  proved  himself  untrust- 
worthy, while  the  latter  was  an  avowed  partizan  of 
the  enemy.  Djagan  consented  to  remain,  but  from 
facility  of  temper  and  softness  of  character,  allowed 
Hazi-Beg  and  Niazi  to  retain  their  posts. 

The  Mont- Albanian  Hodja,  appearing  imder  the 
walls  of  Yarkend,  sent  a  deputation  to  the  town 
composed  of  several  Begs,  a  Chinese  Mandarin, 
and  a  Kalmyk  Zaisan.  They  were  presented  to 
the  Hodja  Djagan,  having  been  first  obliged  to  go 
through  the  degrading  ceremony  of  licking  the 
threshold  of  the  palace.  To  Biirhaneddin's  sum- 
mons, in  the  name  of  the  Bogdo-Khan  and  that  of 
Amursana,  to  surrender  and  place  himself  under  the 
protection  of  China,  he  answered  that,  as  an  inde- 
pendent Mussulman  prince,  he  would  listen  to  no 
terms,  but  would  wage  against  them  a  "  Hazat  " 
or  religious  war.  The  letter  which  conveyed  the 
terms  of  Burhaneddin  he  ordered  to  be  torn  and 
thrown  into  the  fire. 


1  ^4  Travels  in.  Central  As 


la. 


The  city  was  thereupon  invested,  and  during  the 
seige  which  ensued,  the  beseiged  were  always  suc- 
cessful in  their  sallies,  and  maintained  their  vantage- 
ground  until  the  Ishkaga  Niaz — allured  by  the 
offer  of  the  governorship  ofYarkend,  andHazi-Beg, 
chief  of  the  Hodja's  courtiers,  formed  a  daring  and 
dangerous  conspiracy,  which, notwithstanding  its  dis- 
covery and  the  indignation  of  the  people,  was  allowed 
to  fall  through  without  leading  to  their  arrest,  owing 
to  the  Hodja's  infatuated  clemency. 

The  defence  was  maintained  for  some  time 
longer ;  but  Ynayat,  one  of  the  Hodja's  sons,  being 
kUled  in  a  sortie,  the  Governor,  Hazi-Beg,  at  last 
resolved  to  carry  out  his  long- cherished  scheme  of 
traitorously  delivering  the  town  into  the  hands  of 
the  enemy.  He  entered  into  secret  negotiations 
with  Burhaneddin,  and  received  from  him  a  pro- 
mise that  he  should  be  made  hereditary  Beg  in 
Yarkend.  The  traitor  urged  on  the  Hodja  the 
necessity  of  making  a  general  sortie,  on  the  ground 
that  the  townspeople  were  suffering  severely  from 
a  want  of  provisions.  The  Hodja,  who  did  not 
penetrate  the  designs  of  the  Beg,  called  on  all  the 
inhabitants,  both  young  and  old,  to  arm  in  the 
cause  of  the  Hazat.  In  answer  to  this  appeal, 
40,000  Yarkendians  issued  out  of  the  town  and 


Flight  of  Bjagan-Hodja.  185 

drove  the  enemy  from  their  position.  Hazi,  at  this 
critical  moment,  dropped  his  standard,  and  took  to 
flight,  producing  general  consternation  among  his 
followers,  ending  in  a  complete  rout.  The  Kir- 
ghizes, led  by  Kaborda,  who  had  remained  in  reserve, 
fell  on  the  retreating  Yarkendians  with  these  fresh 
troops,  and  the  latter,  who  were  crowded  at  the 
gates,  fell  almost  to  a  man  under  the  spears  of  the 
Buruts,  The  remaining  inhabitants  of  the  town 
lost  heart  after  this  disaster,  while  Hazi-Beg  still 
continued  his  intrigues.  The  Hodja  Djagan  had 
now  to  choose  between  putting  him  to  death  or 
quitting  the  town  himself:  he  preferred  the  latter. 
During  the  night,  all  the  Hodja  families  left  Yark- 
end  by  the  Mahazar  gates,  and  proceeded  along  the 
Kargalyk  road  to  the  mountains,  on  their  way  to 
India. 

On  the  following  day,  the  Yarkendians,  finding 
that  the  Hodjas  had  fled,  opened  the  gates,  and 
Hazi-Beg,  exulting  in  his  treachery,  led  Burhaned- 
din  in  triumph  into  the  town.  The  new  Hodja 
immediately  despatched  a  body  of  500  men  after 
the  fugitives,  who  were  overtaken  just  as  they  were 
preparing  to  cross  the  river  Zarafshan.  The  Hodjas 
defended  themselves  desperately,  and  one  of  them, 
Erke,  son  of  Yusuf  Hodja,  was  killed  in  the  conflict. 


186  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

At  length  they  effected  their  passage  over  the  river, 
but  in  so  exhausted  a  condition  that  they  were 
unable  to  prosecute  their  journey.  Only  one  young 
prince  of  this  family,  Nazar,  reached  India  with 
two  companions ;  the  remainder  surrendered.  The 
Kirghizes,  after  plundering  them  of  everything  they 
had,  brought  them  to  Yarkend,  where  they  were  all 
put  to  death  a  few  days  after  their  arrival. 

Such  were  the  sanguinary  means  by  which  the 
Mont- Albanians  once  more  acquired  the  ascendency. 
Subsequently,  in  1758,  Burhaneddin,  assisted  by 
his  brother,  Khan-Hodja,  rose  in  insurrection,  of 
which  all  the  circumstances  are  to  be  gleaned  from 
Chinese  historians.  After  an  obstinate  struggle, 
which  lasted  three  years,  Burhaneddin  and  the 
Hodja  Djagan,  defeated  by  Chaokh,  the  Tzian-Tziun 
of  Hi,  fled  to  Badakshan,  where  they  were  slain  by 
order  of  Sultan-Shah,  niler  of  that  place,  and  their 
heads  sent  to  the  Chinese  camp. 

Of  all  the  family  of  Appak,  only  one  son  of 
Burhaneddin, — Sarym-Sak,  or  Saali-Hodja,  escaped, 
— four  were  killed  in  battle,  and  two  taken 
prisoners  by  the  Chinese  and  sent  to  Pekin. 

From  this  time  Little  Bokhara  has  continued  a 
province  of  the  Chinese  Empire.  The  Chinese,  in 
order  to  consolidate  their  conquests  in  the  Western 


Clunese  Policy  of  Colonisation.  187 

region,  founded  in  1764  the  town  of  Hoi-Yuan- 
Cheu,  on  the  river  Hi.  Dzungaria  having  been 
depopulated  by  the  massacre  of  half  a  million  of 
Olots,  was  settled  by  Chinese  from  the  province  of 
Khan-su,  and  to  increase  the  population,  was 
converted  into  a  place  of  exile  for  criminals.  For 
the  protection  of  the  country,  Manchur  soldiers 
of  the  green  banner  were  also  transferred  thither, 
and  colonies  established,  of  Sibos,  Solons,  and 
Daurs,  in  the  Hi  district.  Seven  thousand  Mus- 
sulman families  were  forcibly  converted  into 
agriculturists,  and  the  remnant  of  the  extirpated 
Dzungarians  were  allotted  a  certain  extent  of 
country  to  roam  in.  The  Government  of  the 
country  was  confided  to  a  Tzian-Tziun,  with  three 
lieutenants  ;  the  residence  of  one  being  at  Tarba- 
gatai,  and  that  of  another  in  Little  Bokhara. 
The  Chinese  showed  great  caution  in  the  treatment 
of  the  country,  as  its  population  had  fought  with 
great  determination  in  the  attempt  to  assert  their 
independence.  The  internal  government  was  left 
on  the  same  footing,  and  it  was  only  for  maintain- 
ing the  peace  of  the  country  that  Chinese  garrisons 
were  stationed  in  the  most  important  towns. 
Pickets  were  also  posted  in  such  localities  as  were 
best  suited   to   guard  the  frontier,   and   stations 


188  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

were  established  for  ensuring  rapidity  in  travel- 
ling. 

This  successful  subjugation  of  Dzungaria  and 
Little  Bokharia  infused  into  the  Chinese  a  military 
spirit  and  thirst  for  conquest.  During  the 
Government  of  Tzian-Lun  they  apparently  desired 
to  re-enact  the  scenes  of  the  Tan  dynasty.  In  the 
years  1756,  1758,  and  1760,  bodies  of  Chinese 
troops  entered  the  territories  of  the  Middle  Horde. 
The  fall  of  Dzungaria,  once  so  powerful  as  to  be  a 
perpetual  menace  to  every  country  adjacent,  and 
the  conquest  of  Little  Bokhara,  caused  a  panic 
throughout  the  whole  of  Asia,  and  strengthened  a 
curious  Mussulman  superstition,  that  the  Chinese 
would  one  day  conquer  the  whole  globe,  when 
there  would  be  an  end  to  the  world.  The  imme- 
diate result  of  the  general  uneasiness  was  that 
Ablai,  the  head  of  the  Middle  Horde,  Nurali  of  the 
Little  Horde,  and  the  Burut  chiefs  hastened  to 
negotiate  with  the  Celestial  conqueror.  Ablai,  in 
1766,  acknowledged  himself  a  vassal  of  the  Bogdo- 
Khan,  and  received  the  title  of  prince.  Nurali 
sent  an  embassy  to  Pekin.  The  ruler  of  Kokan, 
Edenia-Bi,  in  1758,  and  after  him  his  successor, 
Narbuta-Bi,  likewise  recognized  the  protectorate 
of  the  Son  of  Heaven. 


Apprehemmis  excited  by  the  Chinese.      189 

Notwithstanding  this  apparent  submission,  the 
Asiatics  were  in  a  state  of  chronic  agitation. 
The  general  dissatisfaction  reached  its  height, 
when  in  1762,  some  Chinese  mandarins,  at  the 
head  of  130  men,  presented  themselves  before 
Sultan  Ablai  and  Abdul-Mahmet-Khan,  of  the 
Middle  Horde,  for  the  purpose  of  acquainting 
them  that  Tzian-Lun  intended  hi  the  ensuing 
spring  to  send  an  army  to  Turkestan  and  Samar- 
cand,  and  had  therefore  sent  requisitions  for 
men,  horses,  oxen  and  sheep  for  the  troops. 

Erdenia-Baty,  who  had  then  seized  possession 
of  Tashkend,  the  ruler  of  Khodjend,  Fazyl-Bi,  and 
the  independent  Kirghiz  Sultans,  despatched  a 
letter  to  Ahmet-Shah  of  AfFghan,  the  greatest 
potentate  of  the  East,  imploring  him  to  save  the 
Mussulman  world  from  the  invading  infidels.  The 
son  of  Burhaneddin  and  the  Kashgar  emigrants 
travelled  through  all  the  Mussulman  States,  asking 
for  similar  assistance.  The  fear  inspired  by 
the  Chinese  was  indeed  so  great,  that  the  Cen- 
tral Asiatic  rulers  buried  theu'  mutual  animosity, 
and  formed  a  common  league,  at  the  head  of 
which  was  Ahmet,  ruler  of  Candahar,  the  founder 
of  the  Turan  dynasty. 

Affghan   troops     arrived   in    1763,    and   were 


1 90  Travels  in  Central  Jsia. 

stationed  between  Kokan  and  Tashkend.  Emis- 
saries were  despatched  by  Ahmet  to  the  Mussul- 
man States,  caUing  on  all  true  believers  to  join  the 
"  Hazat,"  or  fight  for  the  faith.  All  commercial 
intercourse  between  ttie  Central-Asiatics  and 
Chinese  Mas  broken  off,  and  the  Kirghizes  were 
pressed  to  follow  this  example.  The  embassy  sent 
by  Ahmet  to  demand  the  restitution  of  Eastern 
Turkestan,  was  badly  received  at  Pekin.  The 
Turkestani  yearning  for  freedom,  solemnly  avowed 
to  attempt  their  own  liberation.  The  inhabitants 
of  Ush-Turfan,  calculating  on  jMussulman  assistance, 
rose  in  1765  in  open  insurrection,  and  the  town 
in  consequence  of  this  was  completely  destroyed. 
The  AfFghan  Shah  was  unfortimately  engaged  at 
this  period  in  a  war  with  the  Sikhs  ;  and  the  other 
Asiatic  rulers,  unless  supported  by  him,  dared  not 
openly  resist  the  Chinese. 

The  league,  though  unattended  by  any  practical 
results,  had,  however,  the  effect  of  deterring  the 
Chinese  from  attempting  fmiher  conquests. 
Badakshan,  alone,  consigned  to  the  curses  of  all 
Mussulmen,  for  the  murder  there  of  the  Hodjas, 
incurred  the  wrath  of  the  faithful.  An  Affghan 
detachment,  consisting  of  16,000  men,  devastated 
this   territory,    and   its  ruler,    Sultan   Shah,    was 


Confederacy  acjainst  Chinese  Eivfe/n^ion.     191 

executed  in  retaliation.  His  previous  treatment  of 
the  Hodjas  brought  on  all  the  misfortunes  that 
weigh  over  the  country  even  to  the  present  day. 

The  extension  of  Chinese  dominion  to  the  West- 
ward was  limited   by   the   natiiral  boundaries  of 
Eastern  Turkestan,  and  was  further  kept  in  check 
by  a  jealous  confederation  of  the  native  rulers.     On 
the  North-West,  the  Chinese  frontier  adjoined  the 
camping-grounds  of  the  Kirghizes  and  Buruts,  and 
presented  but  few  natural  barriers.     The  less  fana- 
tical inhabitants    on   the  North-Westem  confines 
voluntarily  sought  the  protection  of  the  Bogdo  Khan. 
Somewhat  later,  viz.  in  1763,  on  the  demand  of 
the  Kirghizes,  the  Bogdo  Khan  gave  them  formal 
licence  to  roam  over  the  lands  formerly  occupied 
by  the  Dzungarians,  namely,  the  Steppes  between 
Lake  Balkash  and  the  Dzungarian  Alatau  range. 
The  Chinese,  in  return,  demanded  of  the  Kirghizes 
one  out  of  every  hundred  head  of  horses  and  cattle, 
and  one  sheep  out  of  every  thousand.     Detach- 
ments  were  annually  sent  to  collect  this  tribute ; 
two  from  Hi,  and  one  from  Tarbagatai  and  Kashgar 
respectively.     One  of  the  Hi  detachments  marched 
through  Karatal  to  Ayaguz,   where  it  joined  that 
from  Tarbagatai ;  the    second,   passing   over  the 
Santash,  proceeded  along  the   Northern  shore  of 


1  92  Travels  in  Central  As 


KJ. 


Lake  Issyk-Kul,  turned  its  Western  extremity,  and 
then  traversing  the  Zaiiku  pass,  ascended  the  course 
of  the  Naryn  to  the  place  where  it  receives  on  its 
left  bank  the  river  Shar-Krat-ma,  where  a  bridge 
existed. 

The   Kashgar    detachment,    after    clearing    the 
Terekty  pass,  ascended  the  Aksai  plateau,  emerged 
through  the  Bish-Bilchir  mountains  on  the  river 
Atbash,  and  then  gained  the  Naryn  by  way  of  the 
pass  formed  by  the    course  of  the  Shar-Krat-ma. 
These  were  accompanied  throughout  almost  their 
entire  campaign  by  Chinese  merchants,  who  bartered 
their  goods  for  cattle.     The  Chinese  opened  a  trade 
with  the  Kirghizes  at  Kuldja  and  Chuguchak,  and 
the  Bogdo  Khan   used  to   confirm    the    Kirghiz 
Khans  in  their  authority  by  special  patents.     The 
Tian-Tziun  bore  the  title  of  Commander-in-Chief 
of  the  generation  of  foreign  Khans ;  and   in   the 
Chinese  regulations  respecting  foreign  relations,  a 
paragraph  was  added,   determining  the   order  of 
sending  Kirghizes  and  Buruts  to  Court,  and  pro- 
nouncing the  penalty  of  death  against  all  nomads 
creating  disturbances. 

After  the  frightfiil  vengeance  taken  for  the  insur- 
rection at  Ush,  Eastern  Turkestan  was  obliged  to 
submit  to  the  Chinese,   and  to  bear  the  imposts 


Appearance  of  Russia  in  Central  Asia.     193 

exacted  from  it.  This  state  of  things  continued 
until  1825,  when  the  authority  of  the  Chinese 
simultaneously  began  to  be  weakened  in  Little 
Bokhara  and  among  the  Buruts  and  Kirghizes. 
The  appearance  of  Russian  troops  on  the  seven 
rivers  and  on  the  Bogu  camping-grounds,  destroyed 
their  influence  over  the  Kirghizes  and  Buruts,  and 
the  insurrection  of  Djengir  Hodja,  a  descendant  of 
Sarym-Sak,  in  Little  Bokharia,  sufficiently  proved 
to  the-  Central  Asiatics  that  the  Chinese  were  not  so 
formidable  as  they  had  previously  been  supposed  to 
be. 

From  the  foregoing  sketch  it  will  be  perceived 
that  the  towns  of  Eastern  Turkestan,  situated  to  the 
Eastward  of  Kuchi,  did  not  take  part  in  any  of  the 
political  disturbances  that  agitated  this  country, 
especially  during  the  dominion  of  the  Hodjas.  In 
consequence  of  their  close  proximity  to  China,  they 
were  exposed  to  the  immediate  pressure  of  that 
Empire.  Chinese  military  settlements  existed 
there  during  the  Han  dynasty,  and  subsequently  a 
Turkman  state,  called  Oi-Hor,  was  created  in 
Turfan  and  Khamil,  under  the  dominion  of  China. 
During  the  Yuan  dynasty,  Khamil  and  Turfan  fell 
to  the  share  of  Hubelai,  while  the  other  towns  of 
Little  Bokhara  passed  to  the  children  of  Djegaiat. 


194  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

Afterwards,  when  Little  Bokhara  enjoyed  an 
independent  government,  the  Eastern  portion  of 
this  country  was  still  under  subjection  to  the  house 
of  Min  ;  it  was  only  towards  the  close  of  this 
dynasty  that  it  was  abandoned  to  its  own  resources 
and  became  subject  to  the  Dzungarians.  During 
the  first  years  of  the  Government  of  the  Manchur 
dynasty,  the  Beg  of  Khamil  acknowledged  the 
supremacy  of  China,  and  the  Emperor  Kan-si  visited 
that  town  in  person.  The  inhabitants  of  Turfan, 
with  their  Beg,  Amil-Hodja,  despoiled  by  the 
Dzungarians,  threw  themselves  under  the  protec- 
tion of  the  Emperor  Yun-Chen,  who  deported 
them  to  the  towns  of  Ansi-Cheu  and  Sha-Cheu,  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  Chinese  wall,  and  it  was  only  in 
1755  that  they  were  aUoAved  to  retiu-n  again  to 
their  own  country.  The  influence  of  the  Hodjas 
had  not  extended  to  these  parts,  and  it  was  for 
this  reason,  therefore,  that  the  Chinese  altvays 
showed  a  preference  for  the  Turkestani  of  the 
Eastern  towns,  to  the  extent  even  of  granting  them 
exclusive  privileges.  The  rulers  of  Ush-Turfan  and 
Khamil  received  the  hereditary  titles  of  Tziun-Vans 
(princes),  and  the  Emperor  Tzian-Lun,  with  the 
view  of  acquiring  fresh  claims  on  the  allegiance  of 
the  natives,  married  a  Khamil  princess. 


Merciless  Secerities  of  the  Chinese-.         1 95 

Although  this  policy  on  the  part  of  the  Chinese  was 
attended  with  success  in  the  Eastern  portion  of  East- 
ern Turkestan,  the  Western  towns,  having  formerly 
enjoyed  greater  liberties,  could  not  adapt  themselves 
to  Chinese  thraldom.  Inspired  by  a  love  of  freedom 
familiar  with  warfare,  and  imbued  with  rehgions 
fanaticism,  the  inhabitants  bore  a  deep-seated 
hatred  towards  the  Chinese.  The  XJsh  rebellion 
proved  to  China  its  insecure  tenure  of  these  towns 
in  which  peace  could  only  be  preserved  by  constant 
intimidation,  and  by  stringent  enforcement  of  the 
most  merciless  police  regulations.  Distrusting  the 
population  of  the  Six  Towns,  the  Chinese  appointed 
natives  of  Khamil  and  Turfan,  on  whom  they 
could  rely,  to  the  highest  local  posts,  and  began  to 
maintain  powerful  garrisons  in  the  country.  The 
terror  inspired  by  the  massacre  of  the  inhabitants 
of  Ush-Turfan  and  a  wide-spread  belief  in  the 
invincibility  of  the  Chinese,  deterred  the  population 
of  the  Six  Towns  from  rising  in  open  revolt 
against  their  oppressors,  whose  severity  and  extor- 
tion tried  their  patience  severely.  In  this  deplorable 
state  of  affairs  the  people  regarded  the  exiled 
Hodjas  with  particular  veneration.  These  were 
still  enabled  to  maintain  some  sort  of  correspond- 
ence with  their  native  land,  as  the  Chinese,  although 

o  2 


196  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

introducing  with  their  rule  a  system  of  exclusiveness, 
were  nevertheless  obliged  to  throw  open  the  six 
frontier  towns  of  Little  Bokhara  for  the  purpose  of 
trading  with  the  Buruts  and  inhabitants  of  the 
other  Central  Asiatic  States.  The  privileges 
accorded  to  foreign  traders  prove  that  the  Chinese 
were  aware  of  the  advantages,  and  alive  to  the 
necessity  of  commercial  intercourse.  The  Chinese 
tariff  was  so  framed  that  one-thirtieth  of  the  cattle 
brought  by  foreigners  was  exacted  in  kind,  while 
the  Turkestani  and  nomad  subjects  of  China  paid 
one-twentieth. 

The  right  of  free  trade  was  not  extended  to 
Khamil,  Tarfan,  Karashahr,  and  Kuchi,  an  invi- 
dious distinction  which  only  seemed  to  bind 
their  population  more  effectually  to  the  exUed 
Hodjas. 

Affairs  continued  in  this  state  up  to  the  year 
IS 25.  The  Turkestani  veiled  their  strong  discon- 
tent, and  patiently  bore  their  fate.  It  was  not 
until  1816  that  their  dissatisfaction  was  openly 
displayed.  In  that  year  Ziaveddin,  Ahund  of 
the  Montenegrin  party,  who  lived  in  the  settlement 
of  Tashmalyk,  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  from 
Kashgar,  raised  the  standard  of  revolt,  and  retreat- 
ing into  the  mountains,  made  repeated  raids  against 


Ineffectual  Bisinffs  of  the  Native  Factions.  197 

the  Chinese,  in  which  he  was  assisted  by  the 
Kirghizes.  Notwithstanding  bis  capture  and  exe- 
cution, the  insurrection  was  carried  on  by  his  son 
Ashriab-Beg,  who  being  likewise  made  prisoner,  ere 
long  experienced  the  same  fate.  Subuheddin,  the 
infant  son  of  Ziaveddin,  was  sent  to  Pekin,  and 
put  to  death  on  attaining  full  age.  This  rising  was 
not  attended  with  any  important  results,  as  it  had 
not  been  headed  by  a  Hodja ;  it  is  only  remarkable 
as  having  been  the  last  outbreak  of  the  Black 
Mountaineer  faction,  who  then  represented  the 
patriotic  party,  but  subsequently  attached  them- 
selves to  the  Chinese  on  the  appearance  of  the 
White  Mountaineer  Hodjas  as  claimants  for  the 
throne  of  Kashgar.  The  Black  Mountaineers, 
although  they  hate  the  Chinese,  regard  the  White 
Mountaineers  with  still  greater  animosity  and 
aversion,  as  is  the  custom  among  more  civilized 
people  and  nations.  The  Hodja  Sarym-Sak,  after 
wandering  for  many  years  through  the  different 
territories  of  Central  Asia,  settled  towards  the  end 
of  his  life  in  Kokan,  in  order  to  be  nearer  to  Kash- 
gar, whence  he  derived  his  revenue.  The  Montene- 
grins then  commenced  to  emigrate  to  Kokan,  and 
Central  Asia  was  gradually  overrun  by  Kashgarians. 
They  gave  exaggerated  descriptions  of  the  misfor- 


198  Travels  ill  Central  Asia. 

tunes  of  their  country,  and  of  the  injustice  and 
oppression  of  the  Chinese,  and  complained  that  the 
infidels  carried  off  their  wives  and  daughters,  and 
prohibited  the  free  observance  of  their  religious 
rites. 

The  unfortunate  and  sanguinary  fate  of  the  two 
Hodjas  of  Kashgar,  had  always  excited  the  sym- 
pathies of  the  Asiatics.  In  the  beginning  of  the 
year  1820  the  question  of  independence  was  agaiij 
agitated  throughout  Central  Asia.  The  Kashgarians 
became  the  objects  of  imiversal  respect,  and  their 
emissaries  proceeded  from  town  to  town  collecting 
contributions  for  the  projected  "  Hazat,"  or  holy 
war.  The  description  of  the  fate  of  their  country 
produced  the  desired  effect ;  it  drew  tears,  increased 
the  amount  of  the  offerings,  and  placed  the  Kashga- 
rians in  the  light  of  martyrs  in  the  ejes  of  the 
Mussulman  population.  Public  recitation  from  the 
book  of  Abu-Musmil,  in  which  that  Sovereign  re- 
lates his  exploits  against  the  unbelievers,  was 
forbidden  at  Bokhara,  because  it  so  excited  the 
youthful  generation  that  it  induced  many  to  make 
forays  into  Persia  for  attaining  the  pious  distinc- 
tion of  a  "  Hazi,"  or  meeting  a  meritorious  death 
as  "  Sheids,"  who,  according  to  the  Koran,  are 
transported   straight    to   Paradise.      Bokhara  was 


Insurrection  of  Djenffir-Hodja  in  1822.     199 

then  at  peace  with  Persia,  but  this  infatuation 
threatened  to  produce  a  rupture. 

The  re-conquest  of  Badakshan  by  Murat-Beg, 
the  Emir  of  Kunduz,  who  deported  the  inhabitants 
of  this  beautiful  country  to  his  own  morasses,  was 
undertaken,  as  the  Asiatics  affirm,  out  of  respect  for 
the  memory  of  the  Hodjas,  as  Murat-!6eg  was 
related  to  Sarym-Sak.  Sarym-Sak  had  three  sons: 
Myat-Yusuf-Hodja,Pahaveddin-Hodja,  and  Djengir- 
Hodja,  of  whom  the  eldest  resided  at  Bokhara. 

After  the  migration  of  the  Hodjas  to  Kokan,  the 
Chinese,  in  1813,  opened  negotiations  with  its 
Khan.  By  means  of  rich  gifts,  the  emissaries  of 
the  Celestial  empire  induced  him  to  maintain  a 
strict  watch  over  the  Hodjas,  for  which  service 
they  engaged  themselves  to  pay  an  annual  subsidy 
of  200  yambs  (£3660  ?) 

Djengir-Hodja  was  born  in  1783.  He  was  a 
man  of  energy  and  sense.  Aware  of  the  weak- 
ness of  the  Chinese,  and  knowing  the  devotion 
of  the  native  population  to  his  family,  he  deter- 
mined to  rise  in  arms.  Profiting  by  the  death 
of  Omar  Khan,  in  1822,  Djengir  escaped  from 
Kokan  to  the  camping  grounds  of  the  Dikokamenni 
Kirghizes,  and  made  preparations  for  a  cam- 
paign  against    Kashgar.     Djengir  thus  laid   the 


2 (JO  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

foundation  for  those  constant  disturbances  that 
distract  the  country  to  the  present  day.  They  are 
regarded  as  rebellions  by  the  Chinese,  while  by  the 
Asiatics  they  are  termed  "  Hazat,"  or  holy  wars. 
T\T3ile  out  hawking  near  Kokan,  Djengir  first 
formed  the  resolution  of  attacking  Kashgar,  and 
proceeding  straight  to  the  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes, 
prevailed  on  them  to  assist  him  in  the  attempt. 
Suranchi,  head  of  the  Kirghiz  tribe  of  Chon-Bagysh, 
marched  to  the  town,  where  he  plundered  the  ad- 
jacent villages,  but  was  speedily  forced  to  beat  a 
retreat.  After  the  miscarriage  of  this  enterprise, 
Djengir  wandered  in  the  mountain  territories  of  the 
Bolor,  and  among  the  Kirghiz  "  Ulusses,"  until  he 
fell  in  with  the  Kirghizes  of  the  Sayak  tribe.  Its 
influential  chiefs,  Atantai  and  Tailak,  became  his 
ardent  supporters.  The  upper  course  of  the  Naryn, 
the  place  of  gathering  of  the  Kirghiz  camps,  be- 
came the  permanent  place  of  residence  of  the 
Hodja,  and  he  succeeded  in  gaining,  among  the 
nomads,  the  reputation  of  an  inspired  saint.  The 
Kirghizes  of  the  Thian-Shan  have  always  taken  a 
lively  interest  in  the  aflFairs  of  Kashgar,  and  ac- 
quired from  its  inhabitants  a  respect  for  the 
Hodjas ;  they  are  mostly  adherents  of  the  Mont- 
Albanian  party. 


Important  Successes  of  Bjengir-Hodja.      201 

Djengir,  with  his  marauding  partisans,  made 
several  forays  on  Kashgar,  but  they  all  proved  un- 
successful. One  event,  however,  encouraged  him 
to  make  further  attempts,  and  increased  the  num- 
ber of  his  followers. 

The  Chinese,  with  a  view  of  putting  a  stop  to 
his  inroad  at  one  blow,  despatched  a  body  of  500 
Solons  and  Sibos,  under  the  command  of  an 
Amban,  to  make  a  sudden  attack  on  Atantia's  camp, 
and  above  all  to  secure  Djengir.  The  plan  was 
designed  with  great  craft.  Kirghiz  guides  led  the 
detachment  up  the  river  Toin,  across  Chadyr-Kul, 
to  the  banks  of  the  Naryn,  somewhat  below  Fort 
Kurtki,  where  lay  the  encampment  of  Atantia. 
The  Chinese  marched  only  by  night,  so  that  their  ap- 
proach was  not  discovered.  Djengir  was  then 
fortunately  absent  from  the  camp,  and  the  Chinese, 
after  plundering  everything  they  could,  marched 
back.  On  learning  what  had  occurred  on  his 
return,  Djengir,  at  the  head  of  the  Kirghizes,  who 
had  been  away  with  him,  pursued  the  retreating 
Chinese,  and  overtook  them  in  a  narrow  defile. 
Bi-Chebyldy,  of  the  Basyz  branch,  attacked  them 
with  such  vigour,  that  only  one  Chinese  succeeded 
in  making  his  escape ;  the  others  were  slaughtered 
with  their  General  on  the  spot.      This  victory  was 


202  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

regarded  as  a  miracle,  and  Djengir  began  to  adopt 
more  decisive  measures.  He  hastened  to  acquaint 
the  Khan  of  Kokan  and  other  rulers  of  his  suc- 
cess, and  sent  emissaries  to  the  different  camping 
grounds  of  the  Uzbek,  Kaisak,  and  Burnt  tribes. 
The  whole  year  of  1825  was  passed  in  hostile  pre- 
parations. Kashgar  emigrants,  Kokan  Sepoys, 
Uzbeks,  Kipchaks,  Turks,  and  other  Mussulmen 
warriors,  and  mountain  Tadjiks  in  their  picturesque 
black  garbs,  hastened  to  range  themselves  under  the 
banner  of  the  Appaks,  while  many  Kokanians,  even 
including  officials,  left  their  posts  to  take  part  in 
the  "  Hazat." 

In  the  Spring  of  1856,  Djengir  with  his  troops, 
commanded  by  Isa-Dakhta,  formerly  military 
governor  of  Andijan,  encamped  at  the  village  of 
Bishkirim.  His  army  having  been  reinforced  by 
the  inhabitants  of  the  Kashgar  villages,  he  attacked 
the  Chinese  who  had  marched  to  meet  him  under 
the  leadership  of  the  Hi  Tian-Tziun,  and  entirely 
routed  them  on  the  plain  of  Davlet-Bakh,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  river  Tiimen. 

In  this  engagement  the  mountain  Tadjiks  fought 
with  uncommon  bravery  ;  their  black  rather  scanty 
clothing  gave  rise  to  the  rumour  that  Enghshmen 
had  been  present.     The   Chinese  shut  themselves 


Entry  of  Bjen^ir  into  Kashgar.  203 

up  in  their  citadel,  and  the  Hodja  entered  Kashgar 
amidst  the  joyful  plaudits  of  the  populace.  He 
assumed  the  title  of  Seid-Djengir-Sultan,  and  ap- 
pointed civil  and  military  officers  similar  to  those 
of  Kokan.  Isa-Dakhta  was  raised  to  the  rank  of 
Min-Bashi,  and  all  the  Kashgar  Begs  were  suff'ered 
to  retain  their  posts ;  but  the  Chinese  caps  with 
the  ball  and  feathers  were  substituted  for  the 
turban.  The  Governor  of  Kashgar,  Miat-Seid-Vaun, 
a  native  of  Khamil,  was  condemned  to  death  by  a 
council  of  Ahunds  for  having  circulated  defamatory 
reports  affecting  the  Hodja,  and  for  his  oppression 
of  the  people.  The  towns  of  Yarkend,  Yanyshahr, 
and  Khotan  next  rose  against  the  Chinese,  cut  the 
garrisons  to  pieces,  razed  their  fortresses  to  the 
ground,  and  organized  armed  contingents  for  the 
service  of  the  Hodja. 

In  the  month  of  June,  the  Khan  of  Kokan, 
thirsting  for  glory  and  wishing  to  take  an  active' 
pan  in  the  struggle,  arrived  with  16,000  men. 
I'or  some  unknown  reason  Djengir  received  him 
very  discourteously,  and  the  Khan,  thrown  on  his 
own  resources,-  after  making  several  attempts 
against  the  Chinese  fortress  of  Kashgar,  before 
which  he  lost  1000  of  his  soldiers  in  twelve  days, 
returned  to  his  own  dominions  and  there  contented 


204  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

himself  with  striking  off  coins  on  which  he  styled 
himself  "  Hazi "  or  holy  warrior. 

Djengir  in  the  meantime  continued  the  siege  of 
the  fortress,  which  the  Chinese,  deprived  of  water 
and  provisions,  were  compelled  to  surrender  on 
the  seventieth  day.  The  mandarins  committed 
suicide,  and  the  rest  of  the  garrison,  after  escaping 
in  the  night-time,  were  overtaken  in  the  mountains 
and  put  to  the  sword,  with  the  exception  of  400 
Tungens  and  Chinese  who  adopted  Islamism.  One 
account  states  the  Chinese  garrison  to  have  con- 
sisted of  10,000,  and  another  of  8000  men,  under 
the  command  of  I-Ya,  Tian-Tziun  of  Hi.  The 
Hodja,  after  this  success,  sent  agents  to  Kokan 
while  the  400  converted  Tungens  and  Chinese  were 
distributed  between  Bokhara,  Kunduz,  Balkh, 
Khiva  and  the  wandering  tribes.  These  emissaries 
even  reached  the  Great  Horde.  Expecting  further 
assistance  from  the  IMussulmen  of  Central  Asia, 
Djengir  did  not  take  advantage  of  his  success,  and 
by  this  fatal  temporising  policy  gave  the  Chinese 
time  for  collecting  their  forces.  Had  Djengir 
marched  direct  to  Aksd  after  the  capture  of  the 
fortress,  the  whole  of  Eastern  Turkestan  would,  to 
a  certainty,  have  fallen  into  his  hands,  and  even 
Kuldja  would  most  probably  have  submitted  to 
him. 


Conciliatory  Policy  of  the  Hodja,  205 

By  his  lenient  and  moderate  policy,  however, 
Djengir  won  over  the  staunchest  adherents  of  the 
Chinese  government,  and  many  of  the  Begs,  from 
a  sentiment  of  devotion  to  his  person,  subsequently 
shared  his  misfortunes ;  and  with  the  people,  he 
was  and  continued  to  be  a  universal  favourite.  He 
at  the  same  time  courted  the  good  will  of  the  Mon- 
tenegrins by  conferring  offices  on  them.  The 
Kalmyks,  it  is  said,  became  so  disaffected  that  the 
Chinese  ceased  to  employ  them  against  the  Hodja, 
as  they  deserted  to  him  in  large  bodies.  The 
Mussulmen  population  of  the  towns  still  held  by 
the  Chinese,  and  even  that  of  Kiddja,  also  began 
to  entertain  thoughts  of  emancipating  themselves 
from  the  Chinese  yoke. 

Numerous  conspiracies  were  brought  to  hght, 
and  the  plotters  exiled  to  the  Southern  Governments 
of  China,  whilst  on  the  other  hand  the  intrigues  of 
the  Khan  of  Kokan  occasioned  disturbances  among 
the  troops  of  the  Hodja,  which  resulted  in  obliging 
the  latter  to  deprive  Isa-Dakhta  of  the  rank  of 
Min-Bashi.  The  continued  inactivity  of  the  Hodja 
rendered  his  former  successes  completely  nugatory. 
The  Chinese  had  time  to  recover  themselves,  and 
began  to  concentrate  their  forces  at  Kuldja  for  a 
fresh  campaign. 


206  Travels  i?i  Central  Asia. 

Djengir's  army  numbered  200,000  men,  imper- 
fectly armed,  with  a  few  pieces  of  artillery  cap- 
tured from  the  Chinese,  and  some  "  zemburaks," 
or  guns  mounted  on  camels.  Mying  d(!tach- 
ments  of  Kirghizes  were  employed  in  intercepting 
the  Chinese  convoys  of  provisions  and  forage. 
Atantai,  who  commanded  these  detachments,  was 
a  man  of  great  influence  in  the  Council  of  the 
Hodja,  who  conferred  on  him  in  marriage  a 
daughter  of  the  former  Hakim-Beg. 

In  the  month  of  September,  70,000  Chinese 
arrived  at  Aksu,  commanded  by  Djun-Tan,  one  of 
the  highest  Chinese  dignitaries.  They  remained  sta- 
tionary there  until  February,  and  it  was  only  after 
their  new  year  that  they  advanced  to  Kashgar. 
They  were  encountered  by  the  formidable  con- 
tingents of  the  towns  of  Kashgar,  Yarkend,  and 
Khotan,  by  a  mixed  body  of  volunteers,  by  the 
Dikokamenni  Kirghizes,  and  by  the  auxiliary 
forces  of  Kunduzes,  Urj'atups,  and  Tadjiks.  The 
Chinese  advanced  in  regular  order,  and  met  the 
enemy  with  a  discharge  from  their  artillery.  The 
troops  of  the  Si-Chuen  province,  wearing  turbans 
and  long  "  khalats  "  or  robes,  got  intermixed 
with  Djengir's  militia,  occasioning  great  disorder 
among    them.      The     Kokanians,     panic-stricken. 


Capture  and  Ewecution  of  Bjengir.         207 

were  the  first  to  fly,  whereupon  the  whole  body 
of  the  army  retired  in  confusion.  The  Hodja  with 
difficulty  escaped  to  the  mountains,  surrendering 
his  power,  after  a  rule  of  nine  months. 

The  Chinese,  elated  with  success,  despatched 
a  strong  force  in  pursuit  of  Djengir,  which,  on 
approaching  the  town  of  Ush,  reminded  the  Ko- 
kanians  of  the  end  of  the  world.  The  Khan 
assembled  his  army,  and  all  the  inhabitants  were 
seized  with  a  fanatical  terror.  Djengir  meanwhile 
gathered  a  large  force  of  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes, 
and,  engaging  the  Chinese  in  another  action, 
signally  defeated  them. 

Issak-Van,  a  wily  native  of  Ush-Turfan,  and 
a  devoted  supporter  of  the  Chinese,  had  been 
appointed  Governor  of  Kashgar.  By  distributing 
money  among  the  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes,  he 
brought  some  of  them  over  to  his  side,  and  assured 
Djengir,  through  his  agents,  of  his  loyalty  and  of 
his  readiness  to  deliver  up  Kashgar.  With  the 
assistance  of  a  Chon-Bagysh  Bi,  Issak-Van  suc- 
ceeded m  treacherously  securing  Djengir,  whom 
he  dehvered  up  to  the  Chinese.  Djengir  was  sent 
to  Pekin,  and  after  a  few  years  was  barbarously 
put  to  death  as  a  rebel. 

Djengir's  rebelHon,  which  terminated  in  1828, 


208  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

although  it  lasted  only  nine  months,  was  of  great 
importance  in  its  results.  He  gave  his  attempts 
the  lawful  colouring  of  those  of  a  Sovereign  ruler 
endeavouring  to  regain  his  hereditary  rights,  and, 
by  calling  the  insurrection  a  "  Hazat,"  or  holy 
war,  he  awakened  the  sympathies  of  the  fanatical 
Mussulman  of  Central  Asia.  After  the  insurrec- 
tion had  been  crushed,  all  the  impotence  of  the 
Chinese,  who  had  hitherto  been  considered  in- 
vincible by  the  Asiatics,  became  glaringly  appa- 
rent. The  Kashgar  patriots  raUied  the  broken 
spirits  of  the  natives  by  inspiring  them  with  fresh 
hopes  of  a  return  of  the  independence  of  their 
country.  Naturally,  therefore,  the  people  of 
Eastern  Turkestan,  M'ho  had  suffered  so  patiently 
under  the  oppression  of  the  Chinese  officials  and 
of  their  own  Begs,  looked  up  to  the  Hodjas  as 
their  protectors,  ever  ready  with  arms  in  their 
hands  to  defend  them  against  the  infidels. 

It  was  at  this  time  that  the  Kokanians  obtained 
that  political  influence  which  they  enjoy  even  to 
the  present  day.  Noyan-Chen,  the  Chinese  pleni- 
potentiary, entrusted  with  the  pacification  of  the 
Western  region,  adopted  stringent  precautions 
against  the  recurrence  of  similar  outbreaks.  All 
the  weight  of  these  repressive  measures  fell  on  the 


Prohibition  hy  the  Chinese  of  Trade  with  Kohan.  209 

poor  natives,  who  were  put  to  death,  their  houses 
demolished,  and  their  entire  property  confiscated. 
Aware  of  the  traitorous  conduct  of  the  Khan  of 
Kokan,  and  to  chastise  him  for  his  participation 
in  the  late  rebeUion,  the  plenipotentiary  ordered 
the  arrest  of  all  Kokanian  merchants  as  rebels, 
and  the  cessation  of  all  communication  with  Kokan. 
Among  other  exaggerated  notions  of  their  own 
importance,  the  Chinese  are  convinced  that  the 
welfare  of  all  nations  whomsoever  depends  on 
their  having  commercial  relations  with  China. 
Noyan-Chen,  therefore,  considered  that  by  de- 
priving the  Kokanians  of  these  advantages  he 
would  be  punishing  them  most  severely.  With 
this  view,  he  erected  custom-house  barriers  at 
the  villages  of  Tuguzak,  within  fourteen  miles  of 
Kashgar,  and  at  Liangar,  twenty-seven  miles  from 
Yarkend.  On  the  approach  of  a  caravan  to  the 
military  picket,  it  was  met  by  a  party  of  Chinese 
soldiers  under  an  officer,  who  took  a  note  of  the 
number  of  people  accompanying  it,  the  quantity 
of  goods  brought,  &c.,  and  conducted  it  to  the 
caravansarai ;  here  another  oflScial  was  stationed, 
under  whose  superintendence  the  goods  were  sold. 
During  the  saje,  the  merchants  who  attended  it 
were  strictly  watched ;  and,  oh  the  termination  of 

p 


210  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

the  barter,  the  caravan  was  escorted  beyond  the 
Chinese  lines,  under  guard  of  the  same  officer  and 
men  who  had  met  it  on  its  arrival.  To  make 
these  rigorous  measures  still  more  keenly  felt,  the 
Chinese  invited  the  Bokharians  and  Kunduzes  to 
trade  with  them  ;  but  these  merchants,  on  respond- 
ing to  the  invitation,  found  themselves  subjected 
to  the  same  inconveniences  as  the  Kokanians. 
Although  the  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes  deserved  the 
same  punishment  as  the  Kokanians,  the  Chinese 
were  obliged  to  show  them  clemency,  owing  to 
the  scarcity  of  cattle  in  the  region  of  "  the  Six 
Towns,"  to  which  they  even  despatched  envoys 
to  beg  them  for  their  herds.  A  Russian  merchant 
relates  that,  during  the  struggle  with  Djengir^ 
prices  ruled  so  high  at  Aksu,  that  the  Chinese 
paid  a  yamb  (£18.  (Ss.)  for  two  sheep,  for  which 
they  paid  but  £4.  175.  at  Kashgar.  The  Chinese 
scheme  had  the  anticipated  effect  of  increasing 
their  trade  and  suppressing  that  of  the  natives. 
All  Central  Asia  and  Afghanistan  were  supplied 
with  tea,  which  found  its  way  through  Kashgar 
and  Kokan. 

In  1829  their  exclusive  system  of  commerce  be- 
came so  insupportable,  that  the,  Kokanians  re- 
solved to  open  a  trade  for  themselves  by  force  of 
arms. 


Rebellion  of  Maddi-Khan.  211 

At  the  head  of  this  enterprise  was  Madali,  Khan 
of  Kokan.  Notwithstanding  his  youth,  and 
luxurious  and  sensual  habits,  he  had  the  good 
sense  to  choose  most  able  confederates,  such  as  the 
Min-Bashi,  Hak-Kuli,  an  Uzbek  of  the  Yuz  tribe  ; 
and  the  Kush-Begi,  Liashkar,  originally  a  Persian 
bondsman,  raised  by  Madali- Khan  to  the  highest 
offices,  and  afterwards  appointed  Governor  of  Tash- 
kend.  With  the  assistance  of  these  two  viziers, 
Madali  subdued  the  petty  mountain  states  of 
Karategin,  Darvaz,  and  Kuliab,  and  extended  his 
power  over  all  the  Burnt  races,  over  the  Great 
Horde,  and  even  to  some  extent  over  the  Kirghizes 
of  the  Middle  Horde.  The  first  half  of  the  reign 
of  this  Khan  was  the  most  brilliant  period  in  the 
history  of  Kokan,  and  his  successes  induced  him  to 
make  preparations  for  a  war  with  China. 

Anticipating  opposition  to  his  schemes  on  the 
part  of  the  Central  Asiatics,  who  were  then  gene- 
rally indisposed  towards  the  Kokanians,  and  to 
secure,  if  possible,  their  assistance,  Madali-Kahn 
secretly  prevailed  on  Djengir's  elder  brother,  Med- 
Yusuf,  to  leave  Bokhara,  where  he  permanently 
resided,  and  to  join  him  at  Kokan.  The  Khan 
next  issued  a  general  proclamation  to  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  Khanat,  in  which  he  set  forth  that,  as 

p  2 


21:3  Travel-'^  hi  Central  Asia. 

a  Mussulman  ruler,  he  could  not  remain  a  passive 
spectator  of  the  tyranny  of  the  infidels,  who  im- 
posed unjust  taxes,  and  violated  the  chastity  of  the 
virives  and  daughters  of  Mussulmen.  For  the 
stronger  enlistment  of  their  sympathies,  he  further 
added  the  fact,  improvised  for  the  occasion,  that  the 
Chinese  desecrated  the  Mussulman  sanctuaries,  and 
prevented  the  performance  of  the  ceremonies  of 
their  religious  faith.  Lending  an  ear,  therefore,  to 
the  lamentations  of  the  faithful  Kashgarians,  whom 
he  wished  to  liberate  from  bondage,  he  declared  his 
intention  of  seating  Hodja  Med-Yusuf  on  the  throne 
of  his  ancestors. 

In  September,  1830,  Med- Yusuf-Hodja  took  the 
field  with  an  army  of  20,000  Kokanians,  15,000 
Tashkendians,  and  2000  mountaineers  from  Kara- 
tegin,  making  a  total  force  of  40,000  men,  in- 
cluding about  3000  Kashgar  emigrants.  His 
artillery  consisted  often  "  Zemburaks,"  mounted 
on  camels.  The  whole  force  was  commanded  by 
the  Min-Bashi  Hak-Kuli,  brother-in-law  of  the 
Khan  ;  by  Miad-Sharif  Liashkar,  and  the  Kush-Begi 
of  Tashkend.  The  Chinese,  hearing  of  the  warlike 
preparations  of  the  Kokanians,  marched  to  attack 
them  with  3000  men,  but  were  completely  defeated 
near  the  little  village  of  Min-Yul.     Hak-Kuli,  dis- 


Withdrawal  from  Kashc/ar  of  Med-  Yusuf.    213 

comfiting  the  Chinese  afterwards  in  another  action, 
took  Kashgar,  and  placed  the  government  in  the 
hands  of  Med-Yusuf-Hodja.  Kush-Begi  Liashkar 
then  gained  possession  of  Yanyshahr,  Yarkend,  and 
Khotan,  crossed  the  Aksu,  putting  to  the  sword  all 
who  opposed  him,  and  scoured  the  country  as  far 
as  the  Muzart  pass.  The  Chinese  troops  were  con- 
centrated at  Karashahr,  and  delayed  their  advance. 
In  Kuldja,  the  camels  of  the  Kalmyks  were  forcibly 
taken  by  the  Chinese,  and  the  Torgouts  were  com- 
pelled to  furnish  2000  men,  who  marched  very 
imwillingly  under  the  oppressor's  command. 

In  the  meantime,  the  hostile  attitude  of  the  Emir 
of  Bokhara  obliged  the  Khan  of  Kokan  to  recall 
Hak-Kuli,  who  was  besieging  the  Chinese  citadel 
of  Kashgar,  and  in  November  the  Kokanian  troops 
returned  home.  Med-Yusuf,  perceiving  that  he 
could  not  hold  his  ground  without  support,  and 
being  of  a  peaceful  disposition,  also  returned  to 
Kokan,  his  rule  having  endured  just  ninety  days. 
During  this  war  70,000  Kashgarians  migrated  to 
Kokan,  where  they  settled  on  the  river  Syr-Daria, 
below  Khodjend,  in  the  village  of  Dalvas ;  and  in 
Tashkend,  where  they  founded  another  settlement 
named  Yanyshahr.  Ml  these  Kashgarians  received  a 
ten  years'  immunity  from  all  taxes.    The  Kokanians 


214  Travels  in  Ceritral  Asia. 

in  this  war  seized  500  Chinese,  a  largo  collection  of 
arms,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  tea  and  silver. 

Western  China  in  this  year  was  in  an  embar- 
rassed state.  An  insurrection  broke  out  in  the 
province  of  Shan- Si,  and  the  insurgents  operated 
with  success.  Barkul  was  taken  by  the  Mahomme- 
dan  rebels,  and  its  inhabitants  were  killed.  It  was 
not  before  January  that  the  Chinese  began  to  con- 
centrate their  forces  in  Hi,  at  the  time  when  the 
Kokanians  evacuated  Kashgar. 

In  the  spring  of  183] ,  the  Kokanians  commenced 
a  war  with  the  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes.  Hak- 
Kuli,  with  7,000  sepoys,  scattered  the  "  Ulusses," 
or  camps  of  the  Sayaks,  on  the  Upper  Naryn,  took 
their  chiefs,  Atantai  and  Tailak,  prisoners,  and  re- 
turned with  many  captives  and  much  valuable 
booty.  The  Kushi-Beg  of  Tashkend,  at  the  same 
time,  pursued  the  Bogus,  and  pushed  beyond  the 
boundaries  of  the  Hi  district  to  the  military  settle- 
ment of  Sibo. 

These  events  forced  the  Chinese  to  alter  their 
hne  of  policy.  In  the  spring  of  1831,  four  Chinese 
envoys  arrived  with  proposals  of  peace.  The  Khan 
of  Kokan  detained  three  of  them,  and  sent  back 
the  fourth  with  an  agent  of  his  own  to  Pekin.  The 
Kokan    plenipotentiary    was  Alim-Patcha,  a  mer- 


Treaty  between  China  and  Kokan.  215 

chant,  who  secured  for  his  Sovereign  the  following 
rights  and  privileges  : — 1 .  That  the  dues  on  mer- 
chandise brought  by  foreigners  to  the  Six  Towns 
of  Eastern  Turkestan,  Aksii,  Ush-Turfan,  Kashgar, 
Yanyshahr,  Yarkend,  and  Khotan  should  be  appro- 
priated by  the  Kokanians.  2.  That  for  the  col- 
lection of  these  dues,  the  Kokanians  should  have 
in  each  of  these  towns  an  "  Aksakal,"  or  commer- 
cial agent,  under  the  authority  of  a  Kashgar  inspec  • 
tor,  and  who  would  also  be  the  political  representa- 
tive of  his  country.  3.  All  foreigners  arriving  in 
the  above  towns  should  in  every  respect  be  amena- 
ble to  the  Kokan  agents. 

The  Kokanians,  on  their  part,  bound  themselves 
to  watch  the  Hodjas,  in  order  to  prevent  their  leav- 
ing the  territories  in  which  they  dwelt,  and 
to  imprison  them  in  case  they  attempted  to  do 
so. 

In  1832,  the  same  Alim  was  appointed  Aksakal 
of  Kashgar,  receiving  this  office  on  lease,  as  is  the 
custom  in  Kokan. 

In  this  way,  commercial  and  political  relations 
between  Kokan  and  Western  China  were  estab- 
lished. The  influence  of  the  Kokanians  once  more 
extended,  and  taking  advantage  of  the  amicable 
policy  of  the  Chinese,  they  gradually  appropriated 


21(5  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

to  themselves  different  privileges.  As  a  people 
ignorant  of  the  laws  that  should  regulate  national 
intercourse,  their  conduct  is  marked  by  a  brutal 
audacity,  which  the  Chinese  bear  with  astonishing 
patience. 

The  insurrections  of  Eastern  Turkestan  in  1825 
and  1830,  were  severe  blows  to  the  prestige  of 
the  Chinese  Empire,  which  it  has  not  recovered  to 
the  present  day.  The  military  frontier  has  not 
been  visited  by  them  since  1825,  and  a  new  route 
has  been  chosen  for  the  passage  of  their  troops  over 
the  Muzart  pass.  The  Kokanians,  after  subjugat- 
ing the  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes,  threw  out  their 
frontiers  so  as  to  include  Khotan  itself,  and  founded 
there,  in  1832,  the  fortress  of  Kurtka  on  the 
Naryn,  and,  a  little  later,  another  on  the  Pamir 
Plateau,  called  Tash-Kurgan. 

The  Kokanians  are  no  less  powerful  in  the  towns 
of  Eastern  Turkestan,  as  nearly  one-fourth  of 
the  population  is  under  their  rule.  Kokan  having 
acquired  such  political  weight,  its  interest  lay  in 
preventing  the  outbreaks  of  the  Hodjas,  who  were 
accordingly  kept  under  strict  surveillance.  Until 
the  year  1 846,  Eastern  Turkestan  enjoyed  perfect 
peace  under  the  Hakim-Beg,  Zurdun,  who  proved 
himself  a  just  ruler,  and  protected  the  interests  of 


Recent  Disturbances  in  Kokan.  217 

the  inhabitants  against  the  Chinese  officials.* 
He  favoured  trade,  and  was  well  disposed  towards 
the  Russian  Tartars,  whom  he  encouraged  to  estab- 
lish direct  relations  with  Kashgar.  It  is  to  Zur- 
dun-Beg  that  Kashgar  is  indebted  for  the  construc- 
tion of  its  walls  and  of  the  new  quarters  of  the 
town. 

In  the  year  1845  fresh  disturbances,  which  were 
reflected  in  Kashgar,  broke  out  in  Kokan,  on  the 
elevation  of  the  youthful  Hudoyar  to  the  Khanship ; 
under  the  protectorate  of  the  all-powerful  courtier, 
Mussulman-Kul.  The  Aksakals  were  being  con- 
stantly changed,  and  even  one  of  these,  Abdul- 
Afur,  recalled  to  Kokan,  was  summarily  hanged. 
The  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes  continually  broke 
through  the  Chinese  frontier-pickets  in  large  parties, 
and  the  Aksakals  of  Kokan,  while  promising  to 
stop  them  from  doing  so,  accepted  bribes  for  shut- 
ting their  eyes  to  these  constant  infractions  of  the 
treaty. 


*  In  1830,  Zurdun-Beg  had  removed  to  Kokan,  whence  he  made 
his  way  to  Petropaulovsk  on.  the  Siberian  frontier,  and  thence  to 
Kazan,  and  returning  through  Semipalatinsk  to  Kuldja,  presented 
himself  before  the  Tian-Tziun.  Zurdan  said  that  he  had  escaped 
from  imprisonment  in  Kokan,  and  on  the  strength  of  this  statement 
received  the  office  of  "Ishkaga"  of  Kashgar,  and  ultimately  that  of 
"  Hakim-Beg. 


218  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

The  Hodjas  also  profited  by  these  disorders,  and 
with  a  small  force,  composed  principally  of  Kash- 
gar  emigrants  and  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes,  ap- 
peared under  the  walls  of  Kashgar  in  the  autumn  of 
1847.  The  governor  of  the  town,  Kasim-Beg,  re- 
solved to  hold  out  until  the  Hodjas  had  taken  the 
Chinese  fortress.  In  one  sally  from  their  strong- 
hold, the  Chinese  were  beaten,  and  flying  before 
the  Hodjas  who  pursued  them,  were  all  drowned 
in  the  river  Kizyl.  The  Hodjas  apprised  the  town 
of  their  victory  by  sounding  trumpets ;  but  the 
Begs  would  not  surrender,  and  forced  the  inhabi- 
tants to  man  the  walls.  Named-Khan,  a  Tashkend 
merchant,  succeeded  in  communicating  with  the 
Hodjas  outside,  through  a  subterranean  passage, 
and  by  his  treachery,  the  gates  of  Kashgar  were 
opened  to  the  besiegers  early  one  morning  in 
the  second  week.  Hakim-Beg,  Kasim,  and  the 
other  Begs  escaped  to  the  Chinese  "Manchen"  or 
citadel. 

This  event  is  known  as  the  insurrection  of  the 
seven  Begs,  from  the  circumstance  that  it  was  car- 
ried out  by  seven  members  of  the  Appak  family. 
The  eldest,  Ishan-Khan-Tiiria,  better  known  as 
Katta-Khan,  was  proclaimed  ruler,  and  the  other 
Hodjas  were  appointed  governors  of  the  surround- 
ing settlements. 


Excesses  of  the  Seven  Hodjas.  219 

Vali-Khan-Turia,  the  same  who  headed  the  insur- 
rection of  1857,  was  governor  of  the  town  of  Yani- 
shahr,  where  he  signalized  his  administration  by 
unexampled  ferocity.  The  rule  of  the  seven  Hodjas 
commenced  with  the  pillage  of  the  Begs'  houses, 
and  with  the  estabhshment  of  a  large  harem.  Edu- 
cated at  Kokan  they  avoided  the  observance  of  the 
customs  of  their  coimtrymen,  and  surrounded  them- 
selves with  Andijans. 

Named- Khan,  the  Aksakal  of  Kokan,  was 
raised  to  the  rank  of  Min-Bashi.  Katta-Khan, 
generally  speaking,  did  not  secure  the  affections  of 
his  people,  nor  yet  did  he  inspire  them  with  fear. 
The  only  able  man  in  this  insurrection  was  Tavekel- 
Hodja,  also  a  descendant  of  Mahomet.  This  active 
and  very  brave  man,  had  commanded  the  army 
when  besieging  Kashgar,  with  the  rank  of  Batyr- 
Bashi,  and  was  afterwards  sent  to  Aksii. 

At  Kuldja,  preparations  were  being  made  for 
war,  and  immediately  on  receipt  of  the  news  of  the 
insurrection,  a  force  was  despatched  to  suppress  it, 
but  the  departure  of  these  troops  seriously  weaken- 
ing the  garrison  of  the  town,  they  were  recalled  be- 
fore they  had  reached  their  destination.  An  army 
intended  to  operate  against  Kashgar  was  expected 
from  Urumchi  and  Lan-cheu;  upon  the  arrival  of 


220  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

which  in  November,  it  was  at  once  ordered  to  ad- 
vance. It  was  composed  of  several  hundred  Man- 
churs,  soldiers  of  the  Green  Dragon,  of  Sibos  and 
Solons,  and  re-inforced  by  one  thousand  Torguts, 
and  three  thousand  Chashpans,  i.  e.  criminals  trans- 
ported from  the  Southern  Governments,  who,  be- 
fore leaving  Kuldja,  attested  the  justice  of  their 
sentence,  by  pillaging  the  shops  and  private  houses. 
This  army  was  commanded  by  the  Tian-Tziun  Jo, 
and  entered  into  winter  quarters  at  Maral-Bashi. 

Before  the  arrival  of  the  Chinese,  the  Hodja 
Katta-Khan  made  a  move  against  Yarkend,  which 
city  he  was  bent  on  securing.  The  Chinese  jail- 
birds, disobeying  the  orders  given  them,  fell  on  the 
advanced  divisions  of  the  Khan's  forces,  and  utterly 
routed  them.  Katta-Khan  then  hurried  to  Kash- 
gar,  but  the  inhabitants  of  that  place,  dissatisfied 
with  the  preference  he  had  shown  for  the  Andijans, 
and  enraged  at  the  heavy  taxes  which  he  had  im- 
posed on  them,  closed  their  gates.  After  a  few 
more  desultory  engagements  with  the  Chinese,  the 
Ilodja  fled  to  Kokan,  and  the  enemy  occupied 
Kashgar  without  any  opposition.  The  Chinese 
forces  amounted,  it  is  said,  to  64,000  men,  and  it 
was  affirmed  that  further  reinforcements  were  ad- 
vancing on    Kuldja.     The  above  figure  is  exagge- 


Sufferinffs  of  the  Inhabitants  o/Kashgar.      221 

rated,  probably,  and  it  is  more  likely  that  another 
account,  estimating  the  troops  from  Urumchi  at 
4000,  from  Lian-Cheu,  20,000,  and  those  of 
Kuldja  at  6000,  is  nearer  the  truth.  On  the  occu- 
pation of  Kashgar  by  the  Chinese  troops,  20,000 
individuals  of  both  sexes  fled  from  the  town,  the 
majority  of  whom  perished  from  exposm-e  to  severe 
frosts,  in  the  Terekty  mountains,  where  their 
bleaching  bones  still  strew  the  pass. 

In  the  same  year,  on  the  proposition  of  the 
Chinese,  political  and  commercial  relations 
were  again  renewed  with  the  country  on  the 
former  footing.  The  Kokanians,  now  thoroughly 
acquainted  with  the  weakness  of  the  Chinese,  and 
feeling  their  own  superior  strength,  besides  having 
a  firm  hold  on  all  the  Hodjas,  treated  the  govern- 
ment of  the  Bogdo  Khan  with  very  little  ceremony. 
Named- Khan,  who  had  delivered  Kashgar  to  the 
Hodjas,  and  was  Min-Bashi  to  the  Khan  of 
Kokan,  again  became  Aksakal  of  Kashgar.  All 
the  Kokanians  who  had  been  faithful  to  the  Hodjas 
in  the  last  rising,  remained  unmolested  and  enjoyed 
his  protection  at  Kashgar. 

The  Kokanians  now  accorded  greater  liberty 
to  the  Hodjas,  as  they  did  not  thereby  endanger 
their  relations,  but  on  the  contrary  increased  their 


222  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

influence  in  the  country.  In  1855  and  1856, 
Kicliik-Khan-Ture  and  Vali-Khan-Tiiria  attempted 
several  inroads,  but  owing  to  the  numerical  weak- 
ness of  their  troops,  they  did  not  succeed  in 
penetrating  through  the  frontier  pickets. 

The  last  insurrection  occurred  in  1857.  In  the 
spring  of  that  year,  on  the  day  after  the  termina- 
tion of  the  Ramadan  fast,  Hodja  Vali-Khan-Tiiria 
fled  from  Kokan  in  company  with  seven  Kashgar 
emigrants.  They  arrived  during  the  night  at  the 
Kokan  fort  of  Oksalur,  situated  on  the  road  from 
Ush  to  Kashgar,  the  garrison  of  which,  after  kilHng 
the  commander,  the  Hodja  persuaded  to  join 
himself.  He  likewise  succeeded  in  gaining  over 
several  soldiers  who  had  been  sent  by  Nar-Mat- 
Datha,  Aksakal  of  Kashgar,  to  collect  the  "Ziaket" 
or  tribute  from  the  Kirghizes  of  the  Chon-Bagysh 
tribe,  at  that  time  encamped  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
fort.  He  further  stationed  guards  and  scouts 
along  all  the  roads  leading  to  Kashgar,  to  prevent 
Kirghizes  from  giving  the  alarm,  and  despatched 
emissaries  to  raise  an  armed  Kirghiz  force.  Several 
Kashgar  Begs,  sent  by  the  Chinese  in  the  direction 
of  Ush  to  collect  information  respecting  the  Hodjas, 
were  taken  prisoners  and  brought  before  VaU-Khan, 
who  immediately  cut  off  their  heads  with  his  own 


VaJi-Khnn-Tiiria  surprises  Kashgar.        223 

hand.  Having  passed  the  night  at  the  ford  over 
the  Kizyl,  he  reached,  on  the  next,  an  outlying 
Chinese  picket.  There  were  no  sentinels  on  the 
walls,  and  one  of  his  followers  having  scaled  them, 
opened  the  gates.  Vali-Khan-Triiia  entered,  sword 
in  hand,  with  his  retainers,  and  put  to  death  all 
the  Chinese  soldiers  who  were  peaceably  reclining 
and  smoking  opium  in  their  barracks.  Some 
Kashgarians  who  chanced  to  be  at  the  picket  at  the 
moment,  shared  the  same  fate.  Having  thus 
effectually  silenced  the  picket,  the  Hodja  at  four  in 
the  morning  appeared  before  the  South- Western 
gates  of  Kashgar.  All  was  still  in  the  town.  The 
Hodja's  followers  collected  the  wood  that  had  been 
brought  for  sale  and  left  outside  the  walls,  and 
kindled  a  large  fire ;  with  the  powder  they  had 
captured  at  the  picket  they  endeavoured  to  blow 
open  the  gates.  The  peace  of  the  town,  however, 
was  not  disturbed  by  these  proceedings,  and  none 
of  the  inhabitants  were  aware  of  what  was  occur- 
ring. When  at  last  the  gates  fell  in,  one  of  the  Hod- 
ja's band  galloped  through  the  streets  of  the  town 
exclaiming — "All   hail  to  Buisruk-Khan-Tiiria !"  * 

*  Buzmk-Khan  is  the  only  son  of  Djengir.  This  Hodja  has  not 
yet  ventured  on  a  "  Hazat."  He  is  much  beloved  by  the  Kashga- 
rians, who  expect  him  as  a  deliverer.  Vali-Khan  made  use  of  his 
name  to  gain  the  sympathy  of  the  inhabitants. 


224  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

The  effect  was  magical.  The  inhabitants  rose  tu- 
multuously  to  arms,  massacred  all  the  Chinese, 
and  "  looted"  their  houses  and  shops.  The  Hodja, 
welcomed  at  the  gates  by  the  Kokanian  Aksakal, 
entered  the  town  in  triumphal  procession.  The 
palace  of  the  Hakim-Beg,  who  effected  his  escape 
through  another  of  the  city  gates  to  the  Chinese 
town,  was  hurriedly  got  ready,  and  Vali-Khan-Turia 
installed  himself  in  it  to  the  sound  of  trumpets 
and  gongs.  All  those  Begs  who  had  not  succeeded 
in  escaping,  were  seized  by  the  loyal  inhabitants 
and  brought  before  the  Hodja,  who  indulged  his 
savage  nature  by  hacking  several  of  them  to  pieces 
with  his  own  hand.  On  the  following  day,  the 
inhabitants  of  the  Artysh  and  Bishkarim  settle- 
ments,headed  by  a  powerful  Mont-Albanian,  Sheikh- 
Ahund  and  his  two  Begs,  Halyk  and  Tair,  joined 
the  successful  Vali-Khan. 

All  the  Begs  who  had  entered  the  Chinese  ser- 
vice, and  had  not  fled  to  the  Chinese  citadel,  were 
murdered,  together  with  their  children,  while  their 
wives  and  daughters  became  the  prey  of  the  sol- 
diers of  the  Hodja.  But  the  two  above-named 
Begs,  from  the  Artysh  settlement,  although  they 
had  also  accepted  office  under  the  Chinese,  pre- 
sented    themselves     fearlessly    before    Vali-Khan 


Mapid  Spread  of  the  Insurrection.        225 

because  they  had  been  at  the  same  time  in  constant 
secret  communications  with  the  Hodjas,  and  fur- 
nished them  with  large  sums  of  money  for  the 
support  of  a  "  Hazat." 

Vali-Khan-Tiiria  immediately  conferred  the  rank 
of  Min-Bashi  on  Nor-Named,  Aksakal  of  Kokan, 
while  returned  fugitives  from  Kokan  received  dif- 
ferent posts  at  court. 

The  insurrection  spread  so  rapidly  that  the 
Hodja  found  himself  in  a  short  time  at  the  head 
of  70,000  mounted  horsemen,  and  4000  sarbazes 
or  foot  soldiers ;  and  he  had,  furthermore,  a 
large  force  of  volunteers,  raised  in  the  surrounding 
towns  and  villages.  These  troops  wei-e  dressed  in 
uniform,  and  arms  were  provided  by  the  Hodja, 
who  divided  them  into  banners,  with  500  men 
under  each,  commanded  by  Pansads.  The  inhabi- 
tants proceeded  daily  with  spades  and  shovels  to 
dam  up  the  river  Kizyl  in  order  to  divert  its  course 
against  the  walls  of  the  Chinese  fortress.  The 
foreign  merchants  were  also  armed  and  forced  to 
take  part  in  the  siege  works. 

The  Hodja  proceeded  actively  with  the  work 
of  organizing  his  troops,  and  employed  all  the 
artizans  of  Kashgar  in  manufacturing  arms. 
Horses   were   impressed    from    the    natives,    and 

Q 


226  TraceJx  in  Central  Asia. 

foreign  merchants  compelled  to  serve  in  person  as 
well  as  furnish  forth  requisitions  for  the  army. 
Fresh  taxes  were  daily  imposed.  The  Hodja  also 
formed  a  park  of  artillery  of  eighteen  guns,  which, 
however,  did  but  Httle  execution.  The  guns  were 
cast  at  Kashgar  mider  the  superintendence  of  an 
Afghan.  According  to  the  testimony  of  an  eye- 
witness, the  troops  of  Vali-Klian  were  much  better 
armed  and  organized  than  those  of  the  Emir  of 
Bokhara,  whose  army  .serves  as  a  model  for  the 
whole  of  Central  Asia.  The  Chinese  attempted  in 
several  sorties  to  stop  the  progress  of  the  siege,  but 
were  on  every  occasion  repulsed  with  loss.  They 
at  last  confined  themselves  to  firing  at  the  assail- 
ants from  their  guns  and  matchlocks,  while  the 
Solons  and  Sibos  galled  the  besieging  army  with 
showers  of  arroAvs  from  the  lofty  walls. 

The  town  of  Yanyslialir  was  soon  after  taken  by 
the  Hodja.  He  next  despatched  his  favourite, 
Tilya-Khan,  son  of  a  Yanyshahr  emigrant,  to  invest 
Yarkend,  who,  to  further  the  success  of  the  enter- 
prise, was  falsely  given  out  as  a  Hodja.  The  siege 
of  Yarkend  was  formally  commenced  in  the  month 
of  June.  The  Chinese,  who  had  marched  out  of 
their  "  Mancheu,"  or  citadel,  at  that  town,  to  meet 
Tilya-Khan,  were  defeated.     Notwithstanding  this 


Ferocious  CrueUij  of  Fali-Khaii-Tliria.     iil 

reverse,  the  inhabitants  of  tlie  town  still  resolved  to 
defend  themselves.  The  local  Begs,  the  Bokha- 
rians,  Badakshanis,  and  Baits,  urged  the  people  who 
were  favourable  to  the  Hodjas,  not  to  participate  in 
the  insurrection,  assuring  them  that  Tilya-Khan 
did  not  belong  to  the  order  of  Hodjas,  but  was  the 
son  of  a  Yanyshahr  butcher.  Ismail-Van,  Hakim- 
Beg  of  Yarkend,  made  a  speech  to  the  inhabitants, 
in  which,  regardless  of  tlic  presence  of  the 
Chinese,  he  declared  that,  should  the  real  Hodja 
arrive,  he,  Ismail- Van,  would  not  presume  to  oppose 
him. 

Notwithstanding  the  material  forces  that  sup- 
ported the  authority  of  the  Hodja,  it  also  required  a 
great  amount  of  patience  and  devotion  on  the  part 
of  the  Kashgarians  to  suffer  the  cruelty  and  injus- 
tice of  the  tyrant.  From  the  continual  smoking  of 
hashish,  Vali-Khan-Tiiria  was  reduced  to  a  state  of 
savage  frenzy,  in  the  paroxysms  of  which  he  gave 
full  scope  to  his  brutal  passions.  His  mania  was 
a  thirst  for  blood,  and  not  a  day  passed  without 
several  men  being  slaughtered  in  cold  blood,  either 
by  himself  or  in  his  presence.  On  the  banks  of 
the  Kizyl,  he  erected  a  pyramid  of  human  skulls, 
and  anxiously  watched  the  gradual  rise  of  a  monu- 
ment so  worthy  of    him.       The    heads  of  fallen 

Q  3 


i2S  Travels  in  Cpniral  A^iii. 

Chinese  and   Mussulman  were   collected  from  all 
parts,  and  added  to  the  pyramid.     Many  men  of 
influence    fell    victims    to    his   ferocity.     Among 
those  executed  by   him   without    any  cause  were 
Named-Khan,  who  had  several  times  occupied  the 
post  of  Aksakal  of  Kashgar,  and  who  had  fled  from 
Kokan   to  enter   the  service   of  the   Hodja;  the 
Halyk-Beg  of  Artysh,  one  of  his  bravest  supporters; 
and,  lastly,  an  European  traveller.     This  latter  was 
making  his  way  to  Kokan,  and,  wishing  to  present 
himself  before  the  Hodja,   desired  a  friend  of  the 
author,  Naman-Bai,  who  is  related  to  the  Hodja,  to 
procure  some  Indian  gold  lirocade   and  Cashmere 
shawls  as  gifts  for  Vali-Khan.     It  is  said  that  this 
European  gave  himself  out  to  be  an  English  agent, 
sent  from'Bombay  to  the    Khan  of  Kokan.     The 
Hodja  demanded  his  papers,  but  the  traveller  told 
him  that  he  could  only  deliver  them  to  the  person 
to  whom  they  were  addressed.     This  answer  was 
sufficient  to  seal  the  doom  of  the  poor  Eeringhee. 
Judging  from  the  date  of  the  occurrence  and  the 
intelligence  received  subsequently  in  Europe,  it  may 
safely  be  assumed  that  the  European  executed  at 
Kashgar  in  1857    was   no  other  than  the   learned 
Prussian    traveller,    Adolphe    Schlagintweit.     The 
Hindoo  servant  who  accompanied  him,  still  resides 
at  Yarkend. 


Fiendish  Murderi^  committed  by  the  Hod^a.  2:29 

The  ferocity  of  this  Hodja  may  further  be  illus- 
trated by  the  following  story  : — A  Kashgarian  who 
had  made  some  sword-blades,  brought  them  to 
the  Khan,  accompanied  by  his  son.  Taking  one  of 
the  sw.ords  into  his  hand,  the  Hodja  inquired 
whether  it  was  sharp,  to  which  the  maker  answered 
in  the  affirmative.  "  Let  us  see,"  said  the  Hodja, 
and  with  one  blow  he  struck  oflF  the  head  of  the 
boy.  "  Yes,  if  is  a  good  blade,"  he  said,  "  give 
this  man  a  '  Khlat '  (robe)  of  honour  !" 

It  is  also  related  of  Vali-Khan-Tiiria  that,  on  one 
occasion,  he  invited  to  his  palace  the  most  respect- 
able personages  of  Kashgar,  together  with  several 
Andijan  merchants,  and  according  to  Kashgar 
custom  called  in  some  musicians.  During  the 
entertainment  the  stentorian  voice  of  the  Hodja 
was  heard  to  cry  out,  "  Executioner !"  His 
trembling  guests  sat  stupefied  and  aghast.  The 
executioner  entered,  and  the  Hodja  pointed  with 
his  finger  to  one  of  the  musicians  who  had  im- 
prudently yawned.  His  head  was  severed  from 
his  body  before  the  eyes  of  the  horror-stricken 
guests  and  taken  away  to  be  placed  on  the 
pyramid. 

Men  as  well  as  women,  Montenegrins,  Montalba- 
nians,  adherents  of  the  White   and   Black  Moun-, 


230  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

taneer  parties,  soldiers  and  mullahs  alike  fell  victims 
to  the  sanguinary  predilections  of  the  Hodja.  The 
prisons  were  crowded,  till  at  length  Kashgar  from 
one  end  to  the  other  presented  the  appearance  of  a 
vast  slaughter-house  strewed  with  corpses.  The 
national  customs  of  Kashgar,  differing  from  those 
of  Kokan,  were  distasteful  to  the  Hodja,  and  per- 
secuted by  him.  The  national  costume  was  pro- 
hibited ;  the  women  were  ordered,  in  imitation  of 
the  Andijans,  to  cover  their  hair  with  a  white  ker- 
chief and  not  to  venture  out  unveiled.  They  were 
also  forbidden  to  plait  their  hair,  and  this  was 
strictly  enforced  by  the  police.  Tor  the  infraction 
of  this  regulation  the  fair  offenders  were  shorn  of 
their  tresses. 

The  males  from  the  age  of  six  were  obliged  to 
wear  a  turban  and  to  frequent  the  mosques  re- 
gularly, to  which  the  Kashgarians  were  not  accus- 
tomed. 

It  may  easily  be  imagined,  after  all  this,  why  the 
intelligence  of  the  advance  of  a  numerous  body  of 
Chinese  from  Hi  was  hailed  with  universal  delight. 
Speedy  release  from  such  an  all-paralysing  terror 
was  anxiously  and  impatiently  awaited,  and  more- 
over the  Kashgarians  felt  aggrieved  in  the  appoint- 
ment of  Andijans  to  all  the  highest  ranks  in  the 


Jealousy  of  the  Official  Appoint  me  iih.       231 

army  and  at  court.  Nor-Mohammed,  former 
Aksakal  of  Kokan,  was  now  Min-Bashi ;  Moham- 
med-Rahim  was  Mehter;  Med-Karim-Kari  was 
Hasnatch ;  Satykul,  a  Kipchak,  was  chief  of  the  court 
functionaries  ;  and  Mussa  Pansat,  a  Kashgar  emi- 
grant, was  general  of  the  body  guard ;  the  office  of 
Kurshi  was  filled  by  Essaul-Tokhtar,  a  native  of 
Kokan.  The  different  divisions  of  the  army  were 
respectively  commanded  by  Abdulla-Khan-Hodja, 
a  Sheikh,  and  by  a  former  mehrem  of  Tillia-Khan  ; 
the  forces  sent  to  Aksii  and  Khotan  were  under 
Chalgurt-Tokhta-Manju,  a  notorious  robber  and 
adventurer,  and  an  obscure  Margilan  butcher, 
who  in  his  expedition  to  Khotan  succeeded  in  tak- 
ing possession  of  the  large  settlement  of  Puma  on 
the  road  from  Yarkend  to  Khotan.  Tokhta-Manju 
had  once  been  transported  to  the  Southern  govern- 
ments of  the  Chinese  Empire  for  the  murder  of  a 
Chinaman,  but  made  his  escape  thence  to  Kashgar 
in  the  disguise  of  a  Manchur  officer,  where  he 
served  as  a  common  soldier  under  the  Aksakal  of 
that  town.  Among  the  Kashgarians  near  the  person 
of  the  Hodja,  who  still  occupied  prominent  posts, 
was  a  certain  Sheikh- Ahund  from  the  settlement 
of  Altyn-Artysh.  He  was  the  wealthiest  and  only 
influential  man  of  the  White  Mountain  party  in  all 


232  Tracels  in  Central  Asia. 

Kashgar,  his  daughter  being  also  married  to  VaU- 
khan-Tiiria.  There  were  many  Kashgarians  and 
Chalgurts  in  the  army  holding  the  rank  of  Colonel 
or  "  Pansad,"  but  none  of  these  possessed  the  con- 
fidence of  the  Hodja,  or  had  access  to  him. 

This  invidious  preference  for  Andijans,  who 
were  originally  common  soldiers  of  the  Aksakal 
of  Kokan,  excited  the  jealousy  of  the  Kashgarian 
patriots  even  from  the  very  outset. 

But  by  way  of  illustration  of  his  first  joyful  re- 
ception in  Kashgar,  an  Ahirad  describes  that  on  the 
day  after  the  taking  of  Kashgar,  the  Bishkarim  and 
Artysh  militia,  under  the  command  of  the  Sheikh- 
Ahund  and  two  Begs,  waving  their  banners,  and 
sounding  their  timbrels,  approached  his  palace  with 
shouts  of  joy,  demanding  to  see  the  Hodja  and  to 
kiss  his  hands.  The  sight  of  the  Kokanians,  who 
surrounded  the  palace  and  refused  to  admit  them, 
raised  a  loud  murmur  of  discontent.  "  If  we  may 
not  call  upon  the  Hodja  after  sacrificing  our  lives 
and  property  in  his  cause,  what  claims  have  the 
Andijans  to  his  favour?"  cried  the  militia.  Here 
Mussa-Pansad  issued  from  the  palace  and  told 
them  laconically  :  "  If  your  heads  are  not  too  heavy 
for  your  shoulders,  then  in  the  name  of  Allah  him- 
self hold  your  peace  "  After  this  the  Kashgarians 
dispersed  silent,  and  thoroughly  disenchanted. 


Universal  Feelings  of  Discontent  arise.     233 

The  resources  of  the  country  Were  soon  exhausted, 
and  the  cessation  of  trade  as  well  as  of  every  branch 
of  industry,  became  painfully  felt.  The  horses  and 
donkeys  were  impressed  for  the  army;  copper 
kettles,  dishes,  and  other  utensils  were  seized  for 
casting  cannon.  During  one  hundred  days  the 
whole  population  was  occupied  in  siege  works.  In 
addition  to  all  this,  the  suspicions  and  cruelty  of 
the  Hodja  passed  all  limits.  Named-Khan,  while 
superintending  the  siege  works,  TA'as  seized  and  exe- 
cuted, and  the  civil  and  military  officers  were  con- 
inually  being  fined ;  the  Min-Bashi  was  several 
times  imprisoned,  and  had  to  pay  a  heavy  sum  to 
save  his  life.  The  lives  of  all  were  in  constant 
peril.  An  Uidacha  of  the  Hodja  relates  that  every 
moment  he  expected  death.  Such  a  state  of  ex- 
citement could  not  last  long.  The  people,  exhausted 
by  the  siege  works,  prayed  for  the  surrender  of  the 
Chinese  fort,  the  walls  of  which  daily  threatened  to 
give  way  under  the  pressure  of  the  accumulating 
waters  of  the  Kizyl  river.  A  Chinese  force  sud- 
denly arrived,  and  all  rejoiced.  The  Min-Bashi, 
who  had  been  sentenced  to  death,  speedily  retired 
with  his  army,  and  fled  to  Kokan. 

The  Andijan  merchants,  after  having  laboured 
during  one  hundred  and  fifteen  days  in.  conducting 


234  'Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

the  siege  of  the  Chinese  fort,  followed  on  the  heels 
of  the  Min-Bashi.  Vali-Khan,  left  alone  with  a  few 
persons  who  still  remained  faithful  to  him,  among 
whom  it  must  be  observed  there  was  not  a  single 
Kokanian,  fled  to  the  mountain  territory  of  Darvaz, 
the  ruler  of  which,  Ismail-Shah,— first  robbed  him 
of  all  he  brought  with  him  from  Kashgar,  then,  at 
the  request  of  the  Khan  of  Kokan,  delivered  him  up 
to  his  enemies. 

Dm-ing  this  period,  15,000  individuals  volunta- 
rily emigrated  from  Kashgar  to  Kokan.  The  Chinese 
now  occupying  Kashgar,  were  guilty  of  excesses  no 
less  violent  than  those  of  Vali-Khan.  The  surround- 
ing villagers  especially  suffered  from  the  exactions 
and  cruelties  of  the  Chinese,  who  seized  their  com, 
hay,  cattle,  etc.  The  windows,  doors,  and  other 
wooden  appurtenances  of  the  mosques  and  tombs  of 
the  Hodjas  \vere,  to  the  great  grief  of  the  Mussulmen, 
broken  up  for  fuel.  The  Kalmyks  stabled  their 
horses  in  the  temples,  maltreated  the  natives,  and 
violated  the  women.  But  the  Chinese  soon  ap- 
pointed Kattu-Beg  to  the  post  of  Hokim-Beg  of 
Kashgar,  a  clever  and  energetic  man ;  who  in  a 
short  time  restored  the  peace  of  the  town,  expelled 
the  Kalmyks  from  Kashgar,  and  put  an  effectual 
stop  to  all  lawless  proceedings.     By  this  Beg's  ad- 


Scenes  of  Bhodshed  re-enacted  in  Kashgar.  235 

vice,  all  those  who  had  taken  part  in  the  insurrec- 
tion were  seized  and  executed,  as  a  warning  to 
others.  The  Sheikh- Ahund,  who  has  been  so  often 
mentioned  in  this  sketch,  and  his  eldest  son,  Kyzy- 
Ahund,  after  undergoing  torture  and  impri- 
sonment, were  both  beheaded  ;  his  two  other  sons 
effected  their  escape  to  Kurtka,  whence  they  ulti- 
mately reached  Kokan. 

The  other  persons  who  were  sacrificed  to  the 
rage  of  Vali-Khan,  were  of  no  note ;  they  were  exe- 
cuted in  fits  of  fury,  and  their  heads,  placed  in 
separate  cages,  still  line  the  road  leading  to  the 
gates  of  Kashgar. 

The  houses  of  the  Andijans  were  occupied  by 
Kuldja  and  Yarkend  Begs,  who  had  arrived  at 
Kashgar  with  the  Chinese  troops.  The  military 
executions  of  the  Chinese  lasted  till  the  month  of 
August,  1858,  so  that  for  nearly  two  entire  years 
Kashgar  was  the  scene  of  torture  and  executions. 

Trade  during  this  time  gradually  languished  till 
it  became  utterly  stagnant.  The  insecurity  of  life 
repressed  native  industry  and  pursuits,  and  the 
fruits  of  former  labour  were  plundered  by  the 
Kalmyks.  The  corn-fields  were  trampled  under 
foot,  and  Kalmyk  studs  grazed  in  the  gardens  and 
enclosures.     Vali-Khan,  on  his  being   brought  to 


236  Trave/ii  in  Central  Asia. 

Kokan,  was  imprisoned  by  the  Khan  of  that  place, 
and  the  "  ulems "  (judges),  ^yere  requested  to 
decide  .on  the  punishment  that  should  be  in- 
flicted on  him  for  the  murder  of  so  many  innocent 
Mussulmen.  The  relatives  of  the  murdered  Named- 
Khan  demanded  reparation,  and  they  were  joined 
by  other  applicants  for  justice  on  the  fallen  despot. 
In  consequence  of  these  coniplaints,  many  Koka- 
nians  who  had  served  Vali-Khan,  were  deprived  of 
their  offices ;  among  these  was  Nar-Mahomet, 
Aksakal  of  Kashgar.  The  case  of  Vali-Khan-Tiiria, 
however,  notwithstanding  the  demand  of  Hudoyar 
that  he  should  be  executed,  took  a  favourable  turn 
for  him  in  consequence  of  his  cause  being  espoused 
by  all  the  Seids  The  members  of  the  Sahib-Zadde 
family,  whoenjoyed  the  fanatical  respect  of  the  whole 
population  of  Turkestan,  advocated  the  interests  of 
Vali-Khan  so  skilfully,  that  he  not  only  escaped  all 
punishment,  but  his  accusers  ^vere  in  their  turn 
prosecuted  and  compelled  to  pay  very  heavy  fines. 
The  case  of  the  Hodja  aflPected  the  whole  privileged 
class  of  Seids,  descendants  of  IMahomet,  who  are 
exempted  from  execution  and  corporal  punishment. 
Possessing  the  general  confidence  and  respect  of 
the  people,  and  assured  of  their  own  personal 
safety,  they  boldly  reproach  the  Khan  for  any  mis- 


Advances  from  the  Kokcniians  to  the  Chinese.  237 

deeds,  thus  acting  as  a  sort  of  check  upon  an  other- 
wise unlimited  despotism. 

After  this  it  will  be  understood  why  Hudoyai- 
Khan  was  so  strongly  opposed  by  all  the  members 
of  the  Sahib-Zadde  family,  arid  by  the  Hodjas. 
The  right  of  punishment,  if  enforced  in  the  case 
of  Vali-Khan-Tima  might  in  future  be  applied  also 
to  the  other  Seids  or  Hodjas.  Hudoyar,  however, 
placed  all  the  latter  under  close  surveillance,  and 
gave  orders  at  the  frontier  towns  for  every  Hodja 
who  passed  the  barriers  more  than  ten  times  to  be 
brought  under  a  guard  to  Kokan. 

In  the  spring  of  1858  a  Kokanian  ambassador 
was  sent  to  Kashgar  to  renew  the  former  relations 
with  that  town,  and  to  inform  the  Chinese  officials 
that  the  Khan  was  extremely  concerned  at  the 
former  flight  of  the  Hodja,  and  that  the  rebel  who 
had  produced  all  the  disorders  at  Kashgar  was  then 
in  irons.  This  the  Chinese  believed,  or  at  least  pre- 
tended to  do  so.  The  negotiation  was  entrusted  to 
Nasyr-Eddin,  ruler  of  Shabrikhan,  who  had  been 
sent  as  envoy  in  1847,  shortly  after  the  rebellion  of 
the  seven  Hodjas.  Matters  were  speedily  arranged, 
and  the  Kokanians  received  permission  to  have 
their  own  Aksakal,  and  to  trade  on  the  same  terms 
as  formerly.     The  post  of  Aksakal  was  conferred 


238  Travels  hi  Central  Asia. 

on  this  same  Nasyr-Eddin,  with  the  title  of  Datha. 
The  Kokan  Aksakal  arrived  at  Kashgar  in  the 
month  of  August,  with  a  small  caravan,  and  accom- 
panied by  5000  Kashgarians  of  both  sexes.  A 
new  Hakim-Beg,  Alych,  was  appointed  about  this 
time  at  Kashgar.  He  was  a  .  man  of  advanced 
years,  but  notwithstanding  his  age,  indulged  in 
every  sensual  vice  without  restraint.  The  Ishkaga- 
Beg,  his  assistant,  is  Sypergu-Beg,  a  native  of 
Yarkend.  The  Hakim-Beg  has  a  red  ball,  and 
the  title  of  Tiadzi,  and  the  Sybergu-Beg  wears  a 
light  blue  ball,  and  ranks  in  the  fifth  class.  Kutlu- 
Beg,  who  formerly  filled  the  post  of  Hakim-Beg, 
was  made  governor  of  the  settlement  of  Faizabad, 
but  has  subsequently  been  named  Hakim-Beg  of 
Ush-Turfan. 


CHAPTER   VII. 

Trans-lli  and  Chu  Districts. — By  Veninkof. — 
Almaty  or  Vernoe. 

EoRT  Vernoe  was  founded  in  1864,  when  the 
Russians  first  occupied  the  Trans-lli  region. 
Ranging  aldng  the  foot  of  the  Alataii  chain,  the 
small  but  picturesque  Almatynka  rivulet,  issuing 
out  of  the  mountains,  branches  out  into  several 
small  streams,  that  irrigate  this  military-agricul- 
tural colony,  the  population  of  which  consists  of 
between  five  and  six  thousand  inhabitants.  The 
Russian  military  and  civil  administrations  being 
centred  here,  the  place  wears  an  animated  appear- 
ance. Unfortunately,  notwithstanding  the  abun- 
dance of  stone  in  these  parts,  and  in  spite  of  the 
great  scarcity  of  timber,  which  only  grows  in  the 
mountains,  Almaty  is  entirely  built  of  wood.     As 


240  Travels  in  Central  As. 


in. 


yet  the  houses  have  a  clean  and  cheerful  exterior, 
but  they  will  soon  become  dingy.  The  preference 
generally  shewn  by  the  Slavonic  race  for  hasty  and 
perishable  constructions  will  then  have  to  be 
regretted.  The  greater  part  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Almaty  are  engaged  in  agriculture,  which  yields  a 
fair  remuneration  for  the  labour  bestowed  on  it, 
and  the  Government  buys  up  all  the  surplus  grain 
at  good  prices.     It  lies  in  43°  16'  N. 

Almaty,  we  are  entitled  to  suppose,  will  soon 
become  a  place  of  no  small  commercial  importance 
to  all  Central  Asia.  The  small  Tartar  village  with 
a  mosque,  now  forming  the  southern  part  of  the 
settlement,  gives  promise  of  being  developed  in 
time  into  a  large  trading  town.  The  geographical 
position  of  Almaty,  which  is  mid-way  between 
Kuldja  and  Kokan,  and  on  the  road  from  Kashgar 
to  Semipalatinsk,  justifies  us  in  anticipating  that 
many  merchants  from  the  three  neighbouring  coun- 
tries will  transfer  their  activity  to  this  point  of 
convergence  of  the  various  routes  of  Central 
Asiatic  commerce.  Accordingly  we  find  that  the 
commercial  importance  of  Vernoe  is  increasing 
annually.  Trading  caravans,  which  so  late  as  1856 
usually  passed  by  without  stopping,  now  always 
halt  here  for  traffic,  although  as  yet  supplying  only 


Favourable  Agricultural  Conditions  of  Vernoe.  241 

local  wants.  Large  purchases  of  cattle  are  also 
made  each  year  in  the  vicinity  for  Kuldja,  Tash- 
kend,  and  Petropavlovsk,  which  latter  place  is 
distant  upwards  of  800  miles  from  Vernoe. 

The  agricultural  conditions  of  the  Almaty  colony 
are  extremely  favourable.  Its  height  above  the 
level  of  the  sea  is  about  2500  feet,  and  the  mean 
moisture  of  the  air  in  spring,  after  mid-day,  is  052. 
This  hygrometric  range  clearly  shows  that  the 
parching  air  of  the  Steppe  does  not  affect  a  sub- 
mountainous  region;  but  is,  on  the  contrary, 
counteracted  by  the  proximity  of  perpetual  snows. 
The  humidity  of  the  atmosphere,  however,  prevails 
only  within  a  narrow  zone  bordering  the  mountains, 
at  a  certain  distance  from  which  it  rapidly 
decreases,  upon  which  the  vegetation,  thus  deprived 
of  moisture,  becomes  entirely  scorched  towards  the 
commencement  of  June.  The  latitude  of  Vernoe 
(43°  16')  is  almost  identical  with  that  of  Marseilles. 
But  the  influence  of  a  far  inland  climate,  combined 
with  the  greater  elevation  of  the  former,  produces 
a  marked  difference  between  these  two  places,  for, 
while  the  hot  summer  of  Almaty  favours  the  suc- 
cessful cultivation  of  grapes,  pears  and  melons, 
plants  requiring  a  mild  winter,  cannot  be  reared. 
The  range  of  temperature  during .  the    year  is  as 

R 


~\~  Trmeh  im  Ccnlral  Asia. 

much  as  106°  Fahr. ;  the  heat  in  summer 
rising  as  high  as  97°,  and  the  cold  in  winter  falHng 
to  9°  Fahr. 

The  Kirghizes    in    J'ernoe. — The  Sultan  Ali. — 
Vernoe  is  the  metropolis  of  the  Kirghizes  of  the  Great 
Horde,   and  as  such,  presented  many  interesting 
features  to  me  on  my  first  arrival.     The  hospitality 
of  its   inhabitants  facilitated   my   observations  of 
local  life,  with  which  I  soon  became   familiar.     I 
was  particularly  struck  by  the  Kirghizes,  who  rode 
through  the  streets  of  Almaty  with  the  same  patri- 
archal dignity  and  ease  that  they  exhibit  in  the 
Steppe.     The    camel,   the   cow,    the    long-necked 
"arghamak"  or  Turkoman  horse,  and  the  Steppe 
trotter,    low,   but   exceedingly  active,  are  seen  be- 
stridden by  these  gaily  dressed   cavaliers.     A  real 
Djigit,   or    affluent   Kirghiz,    however,    will  never 
mount  any  other  animal  but  a  thorough-bred  horse. 
Oxen  and  camels  are  exclusively  owned  by  shepherds 
and  husbandmen,  or  "  eginitches,"  while  the  argha- 
mak is  only  found  in  possession  of  the  wealthy  and 
distinguished,  and  even  by  them  is  used  but  seldom. 
Sultan  Ali  is  the  head  of  the  largest  division  of 
the  Horde,  /.  e.  of  those  known  as  Dulat  Kirghizes. 
This  old  man  has  seen  a  great  deal  of  ad\  enture  in 
his  day,  and  having  at  various   times  been  subject 


Itifervicir  loith  Sulirm  JJi.  243 

to  three  States,  he  has  learned  to  adapt  himself  to 
the  customs  of  different  countries. 

In  many  instances  his  natural  cunning  and 
ready  wit  were  remarkable.  I  had  been  hiformed 
of  his  intention  of  paying  me  a  visit,  and  was  told 
at  the  same  time  to  regard  it  as  a  special  honour, 
seeing  that  the  descendant  of  Ablai-Khan  was  not 
at  all  given  to  visiting.  Although  he  received  an 
allowance  of  350  rubles  silver,  or  about  £52.  \Qs., 
from  the  Russian  Government,  when  required  to 
attend  at  Vemo^  on  official  business,  it  was  no 
easy  matter  to  ensure  his  presence  The  Russian 
military  head  of  the  district  introduced  me  to 
Ali,  and  the  interview  took  place  at  my  own 
quarters,  in  order  that  the  dignity  of  a  Russian 
officer,  sent  as  they  supposed  direct  from  the 
Emperor,  should  not  be  compromised  in  the  eyes 
of  the  Kirghizes.  I  exerted  myself  to  please  the 
old  man,  assuring  him  that  he  held  a  high  place 
in  my  estimation  on  account  of  the  lofty  position 
he  held  in  the  Horde,  and  that  I  appreciated  the 
honour  he  was  paying  me  by  his  visit.  Ali  was 
equally  polite,  and  paid  me  the  usual  extravagant 
Asiatic  compliments.  "  I  do  not  doubt,  Sultan," 
I  said  to  him,  "  that  your  people  are  happy  in 
having  you  for  their  ruler.    Your  fame  had  readied 

R  2 


244  Travels  in  Cenfral  Jsia. 

me  even  at  St.  Petersburg,  and  now  I  see  that 
it  represented  only  half  your  merits." 

"  Do  not  say  so,"  answered  the  old  man ;  "  I 
govern  my  people  according  to  the  decrees  of  the 
Padishah — may  Heaven  protect  him  ! — and  his 
deputy,  the  Pristav.  As  you  must  know,  a  piece 
of  timber  is  a  rude  block  at  first,  but  becomes 
seemly  and  serviceable  as  this  arm-chair,  under 
the  skilful  hands  of  the  joiner.  I  and  my  people 
are  the  block,  the  deputy  is  the  joiner.  Were  it 
not  for  him  and  the  Padishah,  we  should  always 
remain  blocks." 

"  You  are  too  modest,  Sultan.  Can  he  thus 
speak  whose  wit  is  as  sharp  as  the  well-stropped 
razor,  and  whose  will,  inclined  to  good,  is  as  hard 
as  steel  ?  AH  of  us  certainly  fulfil  the  wishes  of 
the  Emperor,  and  every  one  in  Vernoe  should 
obey  the  Pristav ;  but  you.  Sultan,  are  yourself 
of  high  degree  in  the  Horde.  The  allegiance  of 
your  people  to  the  Padishah  depends  on  you." 

"  My  people  cannot  but  be  faithful  to  the  Padi- 
shah and  obedient  to  those  he  sets  over  us.  We 
live  together  here  as  two  hands.  You  Russians 
are  the  right-hand,  we  the  left,  and  the  Pristav  is 
the  head  "  (he  here  joined  his  hands,  making  the 
fingers    of  one  fit  between  those   of  the   other). 


Instances  of  All's  Astuteness.  245 

*'  It  were  indeed  bad  if  the  left  hand  disobeyed 
the  right,  and  if  both  did  not  fulfil  the  orders  of 
the  head." 

Ali,  as  already  mentioned,  has  been  a  subject  of 
three  rulers.  In  his  youth  he  went  to  Pekin,  to  be 
presented  at  the  Court  of  the  Bogdo-Khan  Iziatsin; 
but  about  this  visit  he  is  not  fond  of  conversing. 
For  a  long  time  after  the  whole  of  his  tribe 
acknowledged  the  power  of  Kokan,  although  de- 
puties from  the  Horde  had  previously  sworn  alle- 
giance to  Russia.  On  one  occasion,  the  Sultan 
and  his  Bis,  perceiving  that  the  Kokanians  were 
bent  on  abolishing,  at  any  cost,  even  the  nominal 
dependence  of  the  Horde  to  Russia,  determined 
to  oppose  their  machinations  by  force,  and  planned 
an  attack  on  Kopal,  which  belonged  to  Kokan. 
Ali,  who  with  his  tribe  was  then  roaming  along 
the  Koksu,  was  chosen  by  them  to  commence  the 
outbreak.  But  the  artful  politician,  after  calcu- 
lating the  probabilities  of  success,  held  aloof. 
Enraged  at  this,  the  Sultans  and  Bis  reproached 
him  with  cowardice.  "  Most  worthy  Sultans  and 
Bis,"  Ali  wrote,  "  the  serpent,  when  on  its  way  to 
its  nest,  winds  and  trails  along  slowly ;  it  is  only 
at  the  entrance  that  it  erects  itself  and  quickly 
glides    in."      This  answer  disarmed  their  wrath, 


"240  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

and  delayed  the  enterprise,  which  was  ultimately 
abandoned. 

The  Great  Horde.— On  the  24th  May,  1859, 
I    joined    an    expeditionary    detachment,   which 
moved  to  the  West  from  Vernoe,  and  on  the  next 
day  crossed  the  Kes-Kelen.     This  river  contains 
a  considerable  body  of  water,  and  is  bordered  by 
rich  meadows  and  land.     The  road  at  its  source 
leads  across  a  path  into  the  Kebin  valley.     The 
Kes-Kelen  defile  forms  the  limit  of  forests  to  the 
west  of  Vernoe ;    beyond  that,  to   the    It-Kichu, 
we   did  not  observe  a  single  tree,  only  the  bar- 
berry, briar,  and  some  othei   bushes.     It  may  be 
observed,   as   a  general  rule,  that   the  forests  of 
Central  Asia  occur  only  on  the  slopes  of  moun- 
tains,   whose    summits    are   covered   with    snow, 
which    supply   the   soil    with   moisture.      In   the 
absence   of  this    necessary  condition,    the   atmo- 
sphere of  the  Steppe  exhausts  the  young  trees  as 
soon  as  they  commence  to  bud.  The  totally  woodless 
character  of  the  southern  slopes  of  the  mountains 
is  readily  explained  by  this  dryness  of  the  air. 

In  the  sultry  valley  of  the  Chu,  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Karakanus,  we  observed  a  few  trees  growing 
close  to  the  bed  of  the  rivulet,  but  these  consisted 
of  the  mulberry  and  peach. 


Progress  of  Civilization  among  the  Kirghizes.  2  4. 7 

Between  the  Keskelen  and  Kestek,  as  we  gra- 
dually left  Vernod  behind  us,  our  detachment  was 
joined  by  a  band  of  Kirghizes,  who  volunteered  to 
escort  it  in  the  hopes  of  receiving  some  remuneration. 
Amongst  them  were  some  of  the  most  renowned 
men  of  the  Horde,  distinguished  e'ther  for  their 
valour  or  high  birth.  It  was  gratifying  to  observe 
in  these  men  some  symptoms  of  civilization,  for 
which  they  are  exclusively  indebted  to  the  Russians. 
Some  of  the  Sultans  and  Bis,  in  conversing  with 
me,  expressed  a  desire  to  have  their  sons  educated 
in  some  of  the  Russian  military  schools,  and  loudly 
inveighed  against  their  wives  and  relatives  who  op- 
posed the  scheme,  through  dread,  lest  the  children, 
after  leaving  their  native  auls,  would  forsake  their 
religion,  and  early  mode  of  life. 

Other  Kirghizes  whom  we  encountered  here  were 
to  a  certain  degree  self-educated,  and  had  acquired 
a  few  European  habits.  It  must,  hoM'ever,  be  con- 
fessed that  the  result  of  their  contact  with  the 
Russians  is  also  but  too  frequently  displayed  in  a 
development  of  vicious  habits,  many  having  become 
inveterate  drunkards. 

The  Great  Horde  gives  fairer  promise  of  civiliza- 
tion than  either  of  the  others,  first,  on  account  of  the 
more  favourable    geographical  conditions    of    the 


~  iy  Travels  in.  Central  Asia. 

Steppe  it  occupies,  and  secondly,  owing  to  the 
special  attention  paid  by  the  Russian  Government  to 
its  organization.  The  internal  government  of  the 
Horde,  and  the  administration  of  justice  by  its  own 
Bis,  have  been  retained  without  any.  change,  thus 
offering  good  guarantees  for  a  steady  and  natural 
development  of  the  people.  The  judgments  of  the 
Bis,  or  esteemed  elders,  are  prompt,  and  based  ou 
the  known  and  universally  recognised  customs  of 
the  Kirghizes,  and  produce  consequently  the  hap- 
piest results.  The  only  objection  to  this  system  is, 
that  the  judge  takes  presents  from  both  sides.  In 
this  way  the  most  influential  Sultans  and  Bis  accu- 
mulate considerable  wealth.  In  addition  to  these 
gifts,  the  elder  Sultans  yearly  receive  a  sheep  from 
each  of  their  respective  auls,  on  which  they  feed  the 
applicants  who  seek  their  counsel  and  judgments. 
This  is  in  accordance  with  the  national  custom, 
which  requires  the  judge  to  shelter  and  feed  all 
those  who  entrust  to  him  the  defence  of  their  in- 
terests. The  superior  Sultans  decide  more  impor- 
tant matters  than  those  referred  to  the  Bis ;  but 
cases  of  a  still  more  serious  nature,  such  as  barantas 
and  murders,  are  settled  in  a  council  of  both  Sultans 
and  Bis. 

In  Mr.  Levchin's  work  on  the  Kirghiz  Steppes, 


Distribution  of  the  Great  Horde.         249 

there  is  very  little  information  concerning  the 
Great  Horde,  which  between  the  years  1820-30 
was  scarcely  accessible.  A  brief  account  of  its 
composition  will  therefore  not  be  unacceptable  in 
this  place. 

Three  principal  divisions  of  this  Horde  roam 
within  Russian  territory — the  Djalairs,  the  Atbans, 
which  include  the  Suvans,  and  the  Dulats,  with 
various  branches,  some  of  which  wander  beyond  the 
Chu  to  the  Talas  and  Boraldai  mountains.  These 
last  amalganiate  with  the  Uisuns.  The  most  nu- 
merous division  is  that  of  the  Dulats.*  They  oc- 
cupy the  whole  region  to  the  North-East  of  the  Chu 
and  Alatau  range,  as  far  as  the  southern  extremity 
of  Lake  Balkhash  and  the  Altyn-Imel  pass,  and 
thence  eastward  to  the  River  Turgen.  Still  further 
eastward  it  extends  along  the  ChUiu  and  Charyn, 
and  along  the  right  banks  of  the  Di,  as  far  as  the 
Koksu ;  this  region  is  occupied  by  the  Atbans,  a 
part  of  whom  wander  in  the  Chinese  dominions, 
where  they  pay  tribute  for  their  pasturages. 

*  The  following  is  the  composition  of  the  priacipal  sub-divisions 
of  the  Dulats  : — The  Seikym  branch  numbers  about  795  aids ;  the 
Djanys,  consisting  of  the  Djailymys,  Bals,  Kybrai,  Kashkaran,  and 
other  tribes,  1090  auls;  the  Butpai,  with  the  Chogai,  Kudaigul,  and 
Isenbai  tribes,  785  auls;  Chemir,  1770  aiils;  Sary-Usium, .  300 
auls ;  and  Itsy,  300.  The  latter  camp  on  the  island  of  Komau,  and 
roam  along  the  lower  course  of  the  Hi. 


250  Travels  in  Central  J-s: 


la. 


The  Djalairs  are  diffused  throughout  the  belt  to 
the  extreme  North  of  the  Great  Horde  along  the 
river  Karatal  and  its  small  affluents. 

These  form  the  largest  group  of  the  three  divi- 
sions of  the  Horde,  and  the  numbers  may  be  esti- 
mated at  25,000.  The  Atbans  (including  the 
Suvans)  are  inferior  to  them  in  numbers,  and  em- 
brace not  more  than  20,000.  These  figures,  however, 
it  should  be  understood  are  mere  approximations,  the 
obstacles  in  the  way  of  forming  a  correct  estimate 
being  almost  insuperable ;  and  this  is  still  more 
especially  the  case  with  the  Great  Horde,  the 
Kirghizes  of  which  are  not  subjected  to  any  regular 
taxes.  The  figures  given  above  are  founded  on  state- 
ments of  certain  Bis  as  to  the  number  of  aiils  and 
yurts  occupied  by  the  two  divisions.  In  the  same 
way  it  may  be  computed  that  the  number  of  Dulats 
and  Uisuns  amounts  at  the  lowest  to  70,000;  so 
that  the  whole  population  of  the  Great  Horde  must 
reach  somewhere  about  115,000,  which  figure 
differs  but  very  slightly  from  that  originally 
given   by  Keppen. 

The  Kirghizes  had  retired  to  the  mountains 
when  our  corps  left  Vernoe. 

Numerous  aids  of  the  various  Dulat  tribes  were 
scattered  over  the  sub-mountainous  region  of  the 


Zoology  of  the  Steppe.  251 

Alatau,  and  along  some  of  the  rivulets  where  rich 
grass  grows  on  the  banks  even  at  a  considerable 
distance  fiom  the  hiUs. 

In  the  month  of  May,  the  Steppes  gene- 
rally oflFer  rich  pasturages,  but  the  Kirghizes  are 
obliged  to  protect  themselves  from  the  swarms 
of  flies  in  the  low  grounds  by  retiring  into 
the  mountains.  These  flies  are  a  great  scourge 
to  the  cattle,  and  by  their  incessant  perse- 
cution fairly  exhaust  the  unfortunate  animals. 
It  is  only  in  the  month  of  July  that  the  Kirghizes 
descend  to  the  plains,  and  then  with  but  a  small 
portion  of  their  cattle,  leaving  the  rest  just  below 
the  snow-hne  until  the  beginning  of  autumn.* 

Zoology  of  the  Steppe. — Fauna. — To  the  West  of 
Almaty  the  Alatau  mountains  gradually  lose  their 
elevation,  till  at  the  upper  course  of  the  Kastek 
river,  they  barely  attain  a  height  of  7500  feet. 
But  immediately  beyond  this  stream  the  conical- 


*  Towards  the  end  of  July,  on  my  return  from  the  river  Chu, 
after  ascending  the  Talgar,  I  fell  in  with  some  large  herds  of  well- 
fed  horses  and  colts  at  an  elevation  of  at  least  9000  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  perhaps  higher.  The  one  disadvantage  of  these 
mountain  sojourns  is  that  the  herds  are  very  frequently  driven  away 
by  marauding  parties  of  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes,  especially  of  the 
Slaty  and  Sary-bagysli  tribes. 


253  Trcweh  in  Central  Asia. 

shapedSuok-Tiube  (peak)  mountain  rears  its  rounded 
summit  to  a  height  of  nearly  10,000  feet.  In  the 
fissures  of  its  slopes  the  snow  remains  until  July. 
A  defile  or  depression  in  the  ridge  to  the  East  of 
Suok-Tiube  off'ers  a  strange  phenomenon.  Some- 
times after  still  weather  a  strong  Southerly  wind 
blows  through  it  for  more  than  two  hours.  If  the 
atmosphere  has  been  previously  distm-bed,  this 
wind  increases  in  force  towards  the  evening,  and  as- 
sumes a  Northerly  direction  from  behind  Suok- 
Tiube.  Hence  it  might  be  inferred  that  the  cold 
mountain  air  descends  at  such  times,  while  the 
heated  atmosphere  of  the  plains  lying  to  the  North 
of  the  chain  ascends  to  the  top  ;  but  this  surmise 
requires  to  be  confirmed  by  more  accurate  obser- 
vation.* 

What  are  the  animals  which  occupy  the  Steppe 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  snowy  mountains,  where 
the  climate  varies  as  we  ascend?  This  question 
may  seriously  engage  the  attention  of  the  zoologist ; 


*  A  somewhat  similar  phenomenon  is  familiar  to  Alpine  travellers 
in  Northern  Italy,  where,  as  for  instance,  on  the  Lakes  of  Como, 
Lugano,  Iseo,  and  Garda,  a  strong  wind  springs  up  pretty  regularly 
towards  sunset,  and  lasts  two  or  three  hours.  It  is  less  conspicuous 
on  Lago  Maggiore,  and  is  unknown  on  the  northern  side  of  the 
cliain,  unless  the  somewhat  similar,  but  more  capricious  atmospheric 
diblurbauce  known  as  the  Eohu  Ijc  presumed  to  be  analogous. — [Ed.] 


TFlId  Sports  of  the  KtrghAzes.  253 

but  it  is  not  void  of  interest  for  any  and  all  persons 
traversing  the  Steppes  of  Central  Asia.  In  the 
barren,  woodless  tracts,  every  evidence  of  organic 
existence  involuntarily  arrests  the  attention  of  the 
traveller. 

Beyond  those  animals  bred  for  man's  use,  the 
number  of  mammals  in  the  Steppe  is,  generally 
speaking,  not  great.  The  most  numerous  are  the 
wolves.  These  follow  the  droves  of  the  Kirghizes, 
and  create  panics  among  the  shepherds  and  in  the 
aiils.  The  loud  barking  of  the  dogs  on  such  occa- 
sions is  distinctly  heard  throughout  the  neigh- 
bourhood. 

The  next  '  in  numerical  abundance  are  : — the 
fox,  marten,  and  marmot,  many  of  which  are  found 
in  the  valleys  of  the  mountain  streams.  Besides 
these  there  are  in  the  mountains  and  forests,  bears, 
antelopes  (saiga),  red  deer,  arkharas,  and  a  few 
tigers.  At  the  numerous  points  where  the  waters 
of  the  rivulets  running  from  the  Alatau  are  choked 
with  reeds,  wild  boars  abound  in  great  numbers. 
These  are  sometimes  hunted  by  the  Kirghizes,  who 
organise  battues  for  the  amusement  this  sport  aifords 
them.  A  wild-boar  hunt  is  always  a  gala  time  for 
the  Cossacks  when  on  the  march,  because  they 
then  feed  well  and  make  up  for  their  usual  scanty 


2")4  Trrirch  in  CenfraJ  A>iin. 

fare,  humorously  replying  to  over  inquisitive  stran- 
gers that  tlieir  commissariat  cattle  bide  in  the 
reeds  or  swim  in  the  Tssyk-kul  Lake  or  river 
Chu. 

In  the  winter  the  inhabitants  of  the  stations 
around  Almaty  occasionally  catch  porcupines.  The 
shrew  mouse  and  Siberian  jerboa  (alactaga)  are  also 
frequently  found  in  the  fields,  but  these  animals  do 
no  great  damage  to  the  crops. 

Birds  are  far  more  abundant  in  the  Steppes  of 
the  Great  Horde,  if  not  in  actual  quantity,  at  least 
in  variety  of  species.  The  most  common  of  these 
are,  the  black  grouse  and  the  starling  {Sturm ui^ 
Rosens,  Pall.),  which  collect  in  large  flocks,  and  are 
seen  both  running  upon  the  Steppe  and  flying. 
Eagles  are  seen  in  the  mountains,  and  pheasants 
are  frequently  found  in  the  valleys.  The  latter  are 
shot  by  the  inhabitants  of  Almaty,  and  sent  for 
sale  as  far  even  as  Omsk.  The  peewit  frequents  the 
stone  tombs  of  the  Kirghizes,  and  allows  itself  to 
be  easily  caught.  It  is  so  tame  indeed  that  it  does 
not  attempt  to  escape  even  when  placed  upon  the 
pommel  of  the  saddle. 

The  most  numerous  reptiles  of  the  Steppe  are, 
lizards  and  serpents ;  and  some  species  of  in- 
sects  are  also  common,  such  as   the  phaJan(/ium, 


Effects  of  the  Bite  of  the  Phalangmm.      255 

the  karakurt,    the  scutiger   arenarius,  the  cricket, 
and  the  chafer  (cicada).      The  latter  does  no  small 
damage  to  the  young  corn  before  it  is  scorched  by 
the  sun.     On  the  other  hand,  the  venomous  pha- 
langium  and  karakurt  are  especially  dangerous  to 
man.     The  plialangium  of  these  parts  is  a  large 
spider,  often  more  than  an  inch  long,  which  bur- 
rows in  the  earth.     Where  the  soil  is  sandy  clay, 
the  naturalist  will  rarely  fail  to  fall  in  with  this 
venomous  insect.     Those  who  are  obliged  to  lie  on 
the  bare  ground  should,  above  all,  take  precautions 
against    it.      The    least   movement,  or   so   much 
as  an  involuntary  contraction  of  the  muscles  during 
sleep,  is  sufficient  to  occasion  a  bite,  because  the 
insect  immediately  grasps  at  the  object  from  which 
it  anticipates  danger.     The  phalangium  will,  how- 
ever, creep  harmlessly  over  a  motionless  body.     At 
the  moment  of  the  bite  the  pain  is  inconsiderable, 
something  resembling  that  attending  the  sting  of 
the  gnat,  but  the  results  are  dreadful.      The  pain 
spreads  quickly  over  the  whole  frame,  accompanied 
with  fever,  and  total  exhaustion   rapidly   follows. 
The  only  remedy  before  the  poison  has  circulated 
through  the   veins,  is  cupping;    but   this  is  not 
always  practicable,  because  it  is  difficult  to  discover 
the  bitten  part.     More   than   fifteen  of  our  men 


~5G  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

suffered  from  the  bite  of  this  insect,  and  two  of 
them  most  severely,  as  they  had  been  bitten 
during  the  night,  and  discovered  it  only  after 
some  time  had  elapsed,  when  the  effects  of  the  poi- 
son began  to  show  themselves.  One  man  who  was 
bitten  had  very  fortunately  caught  the  phdangium 
while  still  ou  his  body,  upon  which  he  was  at  once 
cupped,  and  thus  directly  relieved  of  the  conse- 
quences of  the  bite. 

The  bite  of  the  karakurt  (earth  spider)  is  still 
more  dangerous  than  that  of  the  phalangium,  or 
even  that  of  the  scorpion  or  tarantula.  In  all  in- 
stances ammonia  is  administered  internally  with 
success. 

Serpents  and  lizards  are  plentiful  about  the 
Steppe,  especially  in  the  neighbourhood  of  reeds 
and  water,  while  the  prevalence  of  venomous  in- 
sects is  confined  to  dry  localities.  The  Kirghizes 
eagerly  exterminate  the  serpents,  in  apprehension 
of  danger  to  their  cattle.  It  may  be  here  observed 
that  serpents  are  very  numerous  on  the  Northern 
slopes  of  the  Alatau,  while  the  Southern  declivities 
of  the  range,  and  more  especially  the  Chu  Valley, 
teem  with  jjJialanffia.  The  latter  crawl  from  the 
sandy  shores  of  the  Hi  over  the  axid  Steppe,  to  the 
West  from  Kastek  to  Kurdai  and  Dala-Kailar,  and 


Passaf/e  of  the  Alafah  C/ialn.  ;257 

thence  spread  Westwards  over  the  desert  Steppe  of 
Betpak-dala,  as  well  as  Eastwards  to  the  Kebin 
river.  There  are  \i.o  phalangea  either  in  the  moun- 
tains, where,  owing  to  the  moisture  in  the  atmos- 
phere the  grass  does  not  wither  in  the  sun,  or  in 
the  valleys,  where  the  same  conditions  are  preserved 
by  irrigation  ;  halts  for  the  night  should  therefore 
be  made,  if  possible,  in  such  places. 

Passage  over  the  Alatoh-  Clm —  Unsuccessful  Recon- 
noissance. — From  the  Kastek  rividet,  on  the  banks  of 
which  we  halted  for  about  a  week,  several  roads  lead 
to  the  Chu,  across  the  Alatau  Mountains.  The  first 
and  most  difficult  is  that  through  the  S  uok-Tiube  pass, 
which  winds  through  wild  and  rocky  defiles  up  the 
Kastek  rivulet,  after  which  it  branches  off  in  two  di- 
rections. One,a  narroAvbridle-pathjleads  to  theKara- 
Bulak,  and  the  other  to  the  Kara-Kupus  streams. 
This  latter  route  is  frequented  by  caravans,  when, 
from  the  accumulation  of  water  in  the  Chu,  they 
are  obliged  to  cross  the  river  above  Tokmak.  Ano- 
ther route,  presenting  greater  facilities  for  travellers, 
leads  along  the  Bish-Mailak  stream,  across  the  upper 
course  of  the  Djamanty,  which  likewise  afterwards 
emerges  on  the  Kara-Kunus,  opposite  Tokmak.  It 
was  along  this  latter  that  we  determined  to  proceed. 


258  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

The  detachment  moved  rapidly  up  the  ascent 
of  twelve  miles  to  the  summit  of  the  mountains  and 
crossed  the  ridge  on  the  7th  of  June.  I  measured 
the  mountain  rising  near  the  source  of  the  Dja- 
manty,  and  found  its  height  to  be  7450  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  view  from  this  point  is  one  of  surpassing 
grandeur,  and  produces  a  lasting  impression  on  the 
mind.  In  the  foreground  extends  the  broken  out- 
line of  the  craggy  chain  of  the  Kirghiz  Alatau, 
beyond  the  Eastern  extremity  of  which,  at  a  distance 
of  no  less  than  one  hundred  miles,  are  visible  the 
clearly-defined  summits  of  the  Celestial  Mountains, 
overhanging  Lake  Issyk-Kul.  Below,  under  the 
very  feet  of  the  wondering  traveller,  spreads  the 
Valley  of  the  Chu,  through  which  the  river,  whose 
borders  are  fringed  with  green  waving  reeds,  winds 
in  a  silvery  line.  The  little  fortress  of  Tokmak* 
bears  from  a  distance  the  appearance  of  a  small 
cottage  in  the  midst  of  the  mountain  Steppe. 
Through  the  clear  blue  sky,  the  snowy  peaks  ot  the 
Kirghiz-Alatau  glimmer  in  the  western  horizon,  and 
the  Chu  Valley  gradually  widens  in  that  direction. 

When,  after  a  journey  of  eighteen  miles  along  a 
narrow   and    very    hilly  pathway,    we    descended 

*  This  was  in  1859  ;  the  fortress  is  now  no  longer  in  existence. 


Fate  of  a  Bobber  of  the  Steppe.  259 

into  this  valley,  we  found  it  of  a  dismal  and  barren 
aspect,     The  grass  was  everywhere  scorched  by  the 
sun,  and  it  was  necessary  to  drive  the  cattle  into 
the    defiles   in    search    of  pasture,    so   that   they 
should  recover    from   the  fatiguing  journey.     No 
aiils  or  herds  were  visible ;  occasionally  a  solitary 
armed  horseman,  watching  the    movements  of  our 
corps,  would  appear  in  the  distance,    and,    for  a 
moment,  dispel  the  solitude  of  the  scene.     I  care- 
fully examined  the  neighbourhood,  which  had  been 
previously  visited  but  by  few  Europeans,  and    dis- 
covered that   we    stood    close   to  the  spot   where 
Kenisar  Kasimof,  celebrated  in  the  annals  of  the 
Steppe,  was  killed  by  the  Kirghizes.     This  turbu- 
lant  marauder  long  incited  the  Russian  Kirghizes  to 
revolt  during  the  years  1840-50  ;  but  at  last  lost 
his  head  on  the  banks  of  the  Chu,  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Kara-Kunus.     The  following  are  the  sole  re- 
corded particulars  of  this  event : — After  having  been 
driven    by    the   Russian   troops   to   the   extreme 
Southern  part  of  the  Steppe,  he   here  encountered 
new    opponents    in    the    Kara-Kirghizes.       The 
treachery  and  continual  depredations  of  Kenisar  at 
last  so  exasperated  the  long-suffering  Dikokamenni 
Kirghizes,  that  they  fiayed  him   alive  and   boiled 
his  body  in  a  cauldron,    and  his   head,  after   being 

s  2 


i()i)  Trarcis  in  Central  Jsia. 

struck  off,  was  exhibited  at  Kopal  and  Tashkend. 
The  Russian  Government  rewarded  the  Manap 
Urman,  who  had  been  the  most  active  in  the  pur- 
suit of  the  rebel,  by  conferring  on  him  the  rank  of 
lieutenant-cojonel ;  and  gave  twelve  gold  medals  to 
the  chiefs  who  had  taken  part  in  the  battle  at 
Kiklik-Sengir,  in  which  Kenisar  was  taken.  In 
1847,  soon  after  this  event,  the  topographer 
Nifantief  visited  the  Alatau  country,  and  con- 
structed the  first  map  of  it.  This  was  the  com- 
mencement of  our  knowledge  of  the  regions  ad- 
joining Kokan  and  the  Celestial  Mountains. 

Our  halt  at  the  Kara-kunus  was  marked  by  an 
untoward  occurrence.  The  Kirghizes  who  accom- 
panied us,  hearing  that  a  party  of  the  Dikokamenni, 
after  having  paid  a  depredatory  visit  to  their  auls, 
were  on  their  way  back,  and  woidd  cross  the  Chu 
at  Kiklik-Sengir,  determined  at  all  hazards  to  in- 
tercept the  robbers.  Our  Kirghizes,  being  inferior 
in  number  to  the  Dikokamenni,  who  were  about 
500  strong,  it  was  necessary  to  reinforce  them  with 
50  Cossacks.  But  the  impatience  of  the  Asiatics 
had  resulted  in  a  disastrous  termination  of  the 
affair  before  the  Cossacks  had  time  to  reach  the 
scene  of  action.  A  Sultan,  a  Batyr,  and  three 
Djigits  were  taken  prisoners  by  the  Dikokamenni 


Marvellous  Recovery  from  Severe  Wounds.   261 

Kirghizes,  and  a  Kirghiz  of  the  assaiUng  party 
was  wounded  in  the  chest  by  a  spear,  the  point  of 
which  entering  his  back,  pierced  the  lungs,  and 
broke  one  of  his  ribs,  which  protruded  through  the 
skin.  This  man,  strange  to  say,  not  only  remained 
alive,  but  two  days  after  returned  to  his  aul,  about 
53  miles  distant,  and  was  again  on  horseback  in  less 
than  a  month,  as  if  nothing  had  happened  ! ! 

Whether  this  facility  of  recoveiy  from  wounds 
is  attributable  to  the  moderate  diet  of  the  Asiatics 
when  on  the  march,  or  M'hether  it  is  owing  to  tlie 
skilful  surgical  treatment  of  the  native  doctors,  I 
am  not  prepared  to  say. 

Geograp-hical  particulars  relating  to  the  Chu  and 
its  Valley. — As  the  new  Russian  fort  of  Kastek  is 
situated  in  latitude43°  3',  and  the  embouchure  of  the 
great  Kebin,  into  the  Chu,  lies  in  4.2°  4',  it  would 
seem  that  the  breadth  of  the  Alatau  in  the  meridian  of 
this  fort  is  about  30  miles.  The  southern  slope  of  this 
latter  ridge  is  abrupt,  poor  in  vegetation,  and  affords 
no  convenience,  even  for  nomad  life.  The  northern 
slope  is  richer  in  grasses  and  more  plentifully  irri- 
gated. They  both  descend  on  plains,  which  ex- 
tend high  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Barometrical 
observations,  though  made  during  a  short  period  of 


262  Travels  i/i  Central  Asia. 

time,  gave  the  height  of  Kastek  at  3200  feet,  and 
3600  feet  for  the  bed  of  the  Chu  near  the  former 
Tokmak  fort.  When  we  consider  the  low  level  of 
the  Syr-Daria  Steppes,  about  Telekul-tat,  Saumal- 
kul,  Babystyn-kul,  and  other  lakes,  it  is  easy  to 
account  for  the  rapid  current  of  the  Chu.  It  is  a 
turbid  stream,  running  apparently  along  a  horizontal 
plain,  but  watering  in  reality  a  Steppe,  rising  at  a 
pretty  rapid  inclination.  The  reeds  protect  the 
banks  from  being  washed  away  by  the  swift 
current,  but,  though  they  are  thus  defended,  the 
water  is  still  very  muddy. 

The  Chu  emerges  from  the  Celestial  mountains 
under  the  name  of  the  Koshkar,  and  runs  first  in  a 
North-Easterly  direction  to  the  lake  Issyk-Kul.  Its 
high  valley  contracts  here  in  some  parts  into  narrow 
ravines.  After  breaking  through  the  rocky  Kizyl- 
Ompol  ridge,  the  Koshkar  issues  suddenly  into  the 
basin  of  a  neighbouring  lake,  pursues  its  course  for 
three  miles  farther,  and  throwing  off  on  the  East  a 
small  branch,  the  Kutemaldy,  disappears  again 
with  the  whole  body  of  its  waters  into  the  moun- 
tains. The  wild  gorge  through  which  it  loishes 
bears  the  name  of  Boam.  In  order  to  form  an 
idea  of  its  rapidity  at  this  part,  it  is  sufficient  to 
say  that  from  Issyk-Kul  to  the  old  Tokmak  fort,  a 


Interne  Dryness  of  the  Air  in  the  Steppe     263 

distance  of  47  miles,  it  has  a  fall  of  1600  feet,  which 
is  inuch  greater  than  that  of  the  Volga  over 
its  whole  course  of  2067  miles,  from  its  source  to 
Astrakhan.  Even  20  miles  after  it  emerges  from 
the  mountains,  the  swiftness  of  its  current  is  not 
less  than  10  feet  per  second. 

The  valley  of  the  Chu,  which  commences  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Kebin  and  Djel-aryk,  rapidly  widens 
towards  the  West.  Already  at  Pishpek  it  is  no  less 
than  1 1  miles  across  from  North  to  South ;  farther 
to  the  West,  near  It-Kichu,  the  distance  between 
the  mountains  on  the  right  and  left  bank,  becomes 
still  greater.  There  are  few  places  on  the  surface 
of  the  earth  where  the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere 
reaches  such  an  extreme  point,  as  it  did  here  on  the 
10th  June,  the  humidity  of  the  atmosphere  on  that 
day  being  expressed  at  0.12!  This  figure  is  the 
lowest  hitherto  obtained  in  any  country.  Hum- 
boldt, Ehrenberg,  and  Rose  made  observations  on 
the  dryness  of  the  air  in  the  Steppes  bordering  the 
Irtysh,  when  they  got  0.16  as  a  result.  Even  the 
Khorassan  expedition  of  1858  did  not  find  it 
lower  than  0.14  in  Northern  Persia.  The  effect  of 
this  dryness  appears  in  the  monotony  and  paucity 
of  the  vegetable  kingdom  of  the  Chu  valley,  and 
in  its  little  adaptability  for  settlements.  The  majes- 


264  'J'racela  in  Central  Aura. 

tic  power  of  nataire  presents  itself  here  in  striking 
contrast  to  the  impotence  of  man,  and  it  can  be 
safely  asserted  that  imtil  the  Caspian  is  connected 
with  the  Black  Sea,  its  waters  reduced  to  the  same 
level  as  those  of  the  ocean,  and  their  surface  spread 
over  a  portion  of  the  Volga,  Turkmen,  and  Oren- 
burg Steppes,  so  long  will  the  greater  part  of  Cen- 
tral Asia  remain  incapable  of  development. 

As  the  valley  of  the  Chu  gradually  widens,  its 
resemblance  to  a  desert  becomes  stronger.  Only 
along  the  Southern  borders  of  the  plain,  a  zone, 
well-watered,  and  consequently  marked  with  ver- 
dure and  groves  of  apricot  and  c)ther  trees,  extends 
along  the  base  of  the  Alatau  mountains.  On  the 
North  bank  of  the  Chu  its  tributaries  terminate 
with  the  Dali-Kaipar  rivulet,  beyond  which,  farther 
to  the  West,  spreads  a  barren  waste.  It  is  strange 
that,  notwithstanding  the  melancholy  and  inhospi- 
table nature  of  this  region,  it  was  visited  and 
described  much  earlier  than  even  the  Trans-Ili 
region.  Information  respecting  it  is  contained  in 
the  works  of  Pospelof,  Burnashef,  Teliatnikof,  and 
Potanin.  Additional  particulars  were  gathered  by 
Colonel  Schultz,  who  was  sent  to  the  Chu  in  1S52 
from  Siberia,  to  explore  the  surrounduig  country 
with  a  view  to  its  military  capabilities  and  prospect 


Animal  Life  in  the  J^alley  of  the  Chu.      265 

of  agricultural  development.  "  At  ordinary  times," 
says  that  officer,  "  the  depth  of  water  in  the  Chu, 
from  the  Tulu  tomb  to  Sauman-kul  Lake,  is  not  less 
than  two  feet,  which  increases  to  a  fathom  and  a 
half  at  full  water  during  spring,  when  the  depressed 
banks  become  submerged.  At  this  period,  cara- 
vans are  unable  to  ford  the  river,  and  must  therefore 
construct  rafts  of  reeds,  bound  together  by  ropes 
of  camel  hair,  on  which  they  transport  their  goods 
across,  forcing  the  cattle  to  swim  the  river.  As 
the  waters  subside  the  river  becomes  fordable  in 
many  places,  the  most  frequented  fords  being  those 
at  Kazangan,  Tasty,  Toi-tiube,  Bish-kurgan,  and 
Kara-utkul.  Fish  are  pretty  plentiful  in  the  river, 
particularly  in  the  adjoining  lake  of  Beger-kul. 
Venomous  insects  are  less  numerous  in  the  lower 
valley  of  the  Chu  than  in  the  upper  part  of  its 
course.  Gnats  and  moths  on  the  other  hand  are  a 
positive  scourge  to  man  and  beast  alike.  The 
abundance  of  these  insects  is  owing  to  the  great 
quantity  of  reeds,  which,  it  should  be  observed, 
line  both  banks  of  the  Chu  from  Tokmak.  The 
height  of  these  reeds  is  sometimes  three  fathoms, 
and  innumerable  boars,  and  even  tigers,  find 
shelter  in  these  jungle-like  recesses. 

"  The  tiger  is  common  in  the  Steppe,  throughout 


266  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

Central  Asia,  particularly  in  the  reeds  and  copses 
along  the  banks  of  the  rivers.  In  the  Trans-Ili 
region  this  animal  prowls  in  the  mountains,  and 
has  even  been  shot  near  Vernoe.  Beyond  the  Hi, 
however,  tigers  are  generally  not  so  numerous  as  on 
the  Syr-Uaria  (Jaxartes)  about  Fort  Perofski. 
Northwards,  in  the  heart  of  the  Steppe,  the 
range  of  this  animal  extends  as  far  as  Kopal,  i.  e., 
to  45°  latitude;  and  isolated  individuals  have  been 
encoimtered  farther  North  than  this  comparatively 
high  parallel.  Towards  the  East,  in  Manchjuria, 
the  large  -wild  cat  is  found  much  farther  North,  in 
fact  up  to  the  49th  and  even  50th  parallel.  Owing  to 
the  abundance  of  food,  the  latter  attains,  in  these 
regions,  a  great  size." 

As  a  pendent  to  these  purely  geographical  ob- 
servations on  the  Chu  region,  I  must  add  a  few 
w^ords  relative  to  the  Barren  Desert.  They  will 
serve  to  explain  why  our  knowledge  of  these  parts 
must  necessarily  be  limited  to  a  dry  enumeration 
of  local  objects,  without  touching  on  the  people 
who  only  stray  into  these  wilds  by  chance.  "  The 
Betpak-dala,"  say  Pospelof  and  Burnashef,  "is 
covered  with  thorns  and  wormwood ;  owing  to  the 
scarcity  of  water  it  is  uninhabited,  and  the  wells, 
which  are  few  in  number,  often  contain  bad  water. 


The  Barren  Desert  of  Betpak-dala.        267 

Although  in  the  spring,  caravans  may  obtain  a 
supply  of  this  element  from  the  thawing  snows,  in 
the  summer  they  are  obliged  at  their  night  halts  to 
dig  wells  two  fathoms  below  the  surface.  The 
whole  breadth  of  the  Steppe,  from  North  to  South, 
along  the  road  from  Semipalatinsk  to  Tashkend,  is 
one  hundred  and  twenty  miles.  On  its  Southern 
side,  or  more  properly  in  its  depressed  valley,  salt 
marshes  are  numerous ;  these  overflow  in  spring 
when  the  snows  dissolve,  but  become  completely 
dry  during  the  hot  weather.  A  fine  acrid  dust  is 
carried  off  from  their  surface  by  the  wind,  which 
blows  frequently  and  with  great  violence  from  the 
East.  On  the  South  of  the  Chu,  the  appearance 
of  the  Steppe  changes ;  the  salt  marshes  and  half- 
exposed  clayey  tracts  of  country  are  replaced  by 
dry  sands,  on  which  here  and  there  grow  the  Sak- 
saul,  Djuzgun,  Djeralchik,  and  other  plants  of  the 
prickly  species.  On  the  journey  from  the  banks 
of  the  Chu  to  Lake  Kara-kul,  a  distance  of  thirty- 
three  miles,  there  is  not  a  single  well  in  this  arid 
desert.  Caravans  are  therefore  obliged  to  supply 
themselves  with  water  at  their  halting-places 
for  the  night,  and  carry  it  in  leathern  bags, 
as  is  the  custom  in  Nubia,  Arabia,  and  the 
Sahara. 


268  Travch  in  Central  Asia. 

Brief  Account  of  the  Country  lying  South  of  the 
Chii. — The  immense  hollow  occupied  by  Lake  Issyk- 
Kul  and  the  Chu  valley,  limits  the  mountainous 
country  of  the  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes,  and  the 
Khanat  of  Kokan  on  the  North.  A  Hne  of  Kokanian 
towns  and  fortified  settlements,  extends  Southward 
from  the  Chu,  along  the  route  fromTokmak  to  Fort 
Perovski.  The  Western  portion  of  this  country  is 
occupied  by  the  Kara-tail  ridge,  which,  commenc- 
ing at  about  ninety  miles  from  Akmechet,  stretches 
in  an  E.S.E.  direction,  and  forms  a  rugged  chain, 
whose  Northern  declivities  have  a  very  steep  incli- 
nation, while  those  on  the  South  slope  gently  to  the 
plain.  At  the  very  base  of  the  mountains,  on  the 
North  side,  are  two  Kokanian  forts,  Suzak  and 
Cholok-kurgan,  which  have  each  small  outlying  set- 
tlements. The  roads  from  Tashkend  to  Petro- 
pavlovsk  and  Troitsk  lead  past  these  forts.  The 
passage  over  the  Kara- tail  mountains  on  these 
routes  to  Turkestan  and  Tashkend  is  effected 
through  three  mountain  passes  —  Suiindyk, 
Karagyr,  and  Sauskandyk.  The  first  of  these  is 
the  most  easily  traversed,  and  occurs  on  the  road 
between  Suzak  and  Turkestan.  Caravans  proceed- 
ing this  way  to  Petropavlovsk,  journey  three  days 
from  the  foot  of  the  mountains  to  the  River  Chu, 


Lake  Knrnknl  and  the  Boroldai  Clirnn.     :269 

at  about  thirty  miles  from  the  point  at  which  it 
falls  into  Lake  Satiman-kul.  The  passage  over 
the  sandy  Steppe  in  this  direction  presents  greater 
facilities  than  that  from  Cholok-kurgan  to  Kazan- 
gan-utkul.  In  some  places  whole  forests  of  the 
Saksaul  are.  met  with.  The  grass  is  throughout 
good,  and  the  water  in  the  wells  sweet.  The  barren 
Steppe  again  commences  on  reaching  the  Northern 
side  of  the  Chu,  and  the  route  by  way  of  Uvanas- 
kuduk  is  as  tedious  as  that  to  Tius-Bulak,  a  settle- 
ment in  the  Betpak-Dala  Steppe,  on  the  road  from 
Kazangan-Utkul.  The  Kara-taii  mountains,  I  may 
here  remark,  are  at  present  occupied  by  the  de- 
scendants of  Kenisar,  and  the  remnants  of  his 
horde.  They  are  the  most  fierce  plunderers  on  the 
whole    route  from   Tashkend  to  the  Siberian  line. 

East  of  the  meridian  of  Cholok-Kurgan,  the  only 
objects  of  attention  are  the  Karakul  lakes,  overgrown 
with  masses  of  reeds,  and  the  Boroldai  mountain 
range.  These  localities  have  apparently  been  visited 
by  but  one  European,  namely,  Miiller,  in  1739. 

On  the  authority  of  Potanin's  "  Itinerary,"  I 
have  altered  the  configuration  of  Lake  Karakul 
from  that  ordinarily  given  it  on  maps.  With  re- 
gard to  the  Talas,  we  are  more  acquainted  with  this 
river  at  its  middle  course,  near  Aulie-Ata,  than  at 


270  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

its  lower  portion.    In  the  list  of  astronomical  points 
fixed  by  the  Jesuit  missionaries,  who  were  employed 
by  the    Emperor    Tsian-Lun,  we  find  one  point 
selected  on  this  river,  in  latitude  42°  30°,  and  longi- 
tude 91°  37'  east  of  Ferro  (73°  42'  4S"  E.  of  Green- 
wich) ;  but  whether  this  is  the  determination  of 
Auhe-Ata  or  another  point,  in  the  absence  of  more 
recent  data,  it  is  difficult  to  ascertain.     Generally  ■ 
speaking,  the  observations  of  latitude  made  by  the 
Jesuits  are  reliable,  which  is  not  the  case  with 
those   of  longitude.      I   am   of  opinion  that  the 
labours  of  Reguip,  Bouve,  Gerbillon,  Eerbiste,  &c., 
in  the  reign  of  Han,  in   China  Proper,  in  iManch- 
juria  and  Mongolia,  are  more  accurate  than  those 
of  Hallerstein,  Arochi  and  Espigny,  in  Turkestan 
and  Dzungaria. 

The  accompanying  Itinerary  (v.  Appendix  1  F) 
gives  some  particulars  of  the  route  l^etwcen  Cholok- 
Kurgan  and  Aulie-Ata,  along  the  northern  slopes  of 
the  Boroldai  range.  The  Talas  river,  like  the  Chu, 
has  no  good  pasturage  on  its  banks,  which,  with  its 
valley,  are  both  overgrown  with  reeds.  The  river 
is  pretty  abundantly  supplied  with  water  where  it 
first  issues  from  the  mountain,  at  AuHc-Ata,  al- 
though fordable  at  this  point.  Lower  down  it  be- 
comes gradually  narrower,  till  nothing  but  a  small 


Account  of  Bikokamenni  Horde.  271  ^ 

stream  of  water  debouches  into  Lake  Kara-kul. 
Above  Aiilie-Ata  it  flows  through  a  narrow  valley, 
and  its  sources  lie  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Kashgar 
basin,  almost  on  the  same  meridian  as  Pishpek. 

A  real  terra  incognita  extends  beyond  the  Talas, 
as  far  as  Ferganah.  In  this  classification,  I  com- 
prehend the  country  between  the  parallels  of  Aulie- 
Ata  and  Namangan,  before  reaching  the  more  re- 
mote table-lands  of  Central  Asia.  On  the  strength 
of  information  I  obtained  on  my  journey,  and 
according  to  the  accounts  of  a  few  travellers  who 
have  visited  the  South-Western  part  of  the  Khanat 
of  Kokan,  two  main  chains  appear  to  extend  here ; 
one  on  the  Northern  side  of  Chirchik,  terminating 
with  the  Kyzyrkurt  mountains,  rather  farther  to 
the  North  than  Tashkend;  the  other,  stretching 
Southwards  from  Chirchik,  its  South-Western  ex- 
tremity being  formed  by  the  Kendyr-tau  range. 
We  are  acquainted  with  two  routes  which  cross 
these  mountains,  or  skirt  their  base ;  one  running 
Eastwards  from  Aulie-Ata  to  Namangan  ;  the  other 
from  Turkestan  to  Kokan,  approaching  the  Kyzyr- 
kurt range,  and  then  crossing  the  Kendyr-tau. 

The  Dikokamenni  Horde. — With  the  great  Kir- 
ghiz Horde  and  its  subdivisions,  of  which  I  have 


,272  7Vr/reJs  in  Central  Asia. 

given  a  short  account  in  the  preceding  pages,  we  are 
more  or  less  acquainted  from  Levchin's  work  on  this 
subject,  as  well  as  from  other  sources.  But  our 
information  respecting  the  Kara- Kirghizes,  other- 
wise Buruts,  or  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes,  is  exceed- 
ingly limited.  The  earliest  reliable  particulars 
respecting  them,  (and  even  these  must  be  received 
with  caution),  have  been  strung  together  from 
Chinese  sources  by  Klaproth  and  Pere  Hyacinthe, 
and  a  few  desvdtory  remarks  respecting  this  Horde 
are  to  be  found  in  the  works  of  Wood,  Khanikof, 
and  "\^eliaminof-Zernof.  A  more  systematic  de- 
scription was  drawn  up  in  1851,  by  jMM. 
Nifantief  and  ^'^oronin,  and  presented  to  the  Rus- 
sian Geographical  Society.  An  examination  of  all 
these  materials  will  show  that  the  ethnography  of 
the  Buruts  is  still  vci-y  imperfect. 

For  the  following  details  regarding  the  Dikokamen- 
ni Horde,  and  particularly  for  those  bearing  on  the 
tribes  whose  haunts  lie  close  to  the  Russian  frontiers, 
we  are  indebted  to  Mr.  Bardashef,  the  intelligent  in- 
terpreter attached  to  the  chief  of  the  Alatavi  district: 

"  'Dikokamenni 'is  the  name  given  by  the  Russians 
to  the  people  who  chiefly  frequent  the  mountains 
about  Lake  Issyk-Kul,  and  call  themselves  Kir- 
ghizes, in  contradistinction  to  the  Kaisaks  (or  more 


Kirghiz  Legends  of  their  Origin  as  a  Nation.  273 

properly,  Koisaks).  The  former  race  has  no  dis- 
tinct history,  and  may  hardly  be  considered  to  be- 
long to  the  aboriginal  population  of  the  country, 
in  which  the  Nogais  (or  Kalmyks)  were  formerly 
dominant.  One  portion  of  them,  it  is  certain, 
migrated  to  the  Thian-Shan  mountains  from  the 
upper  part  of  the  Yenisei,  where,  so  early  as  the 
seventeenth  century,  they  were  engaged  in  hostili- 
ties against  the  Russians.  But  the  Kara-Kirghizes 
usually  claim  to  be  of  Western  origin,  and  profess 
to  have  once  inhabited  countries  occupied  even  to 
the  present  time  by  Turkish  tribes.  This,  it  must 
be  allowed,  is  borne  out  by  their  language,  which 
is  the  Uigur  dialect  of  the  Turkish,  with  an  admix- 
ture of  foreign  words.  The  imagination  of  the  people 
has  surrounded  with  romance  the  cradle  of  their  race, 
as  having  lain  in  the  mountains  bordering  on  the 
Naryn  and  the  Southern  margin  of  Lake  Issyk-Kul. 
The  following  is  one  of  the  legends  to  this  effect, 
which,  however,  has  but  little  to  recommend  it  in 
point  of  fancy,  and  does  not  convey  a  very  favourable 
idea  of  the  aesthetic  condition  of  the  Kirghiz  : — 

"  '  The  daughter  of  a  certain  Khan  was  in  the 
habit  of  taking  long  walks,  accompanied  by  forty 
maidens.  Returning  home  after  one  of  these  pro- 
menades, she  found  her  aul  completely  pillaged ; 


274  Travels  hi  Central  Asia. 

but  one  living  animal  having  been  left  in  it — a  red 
dog  (Kyzj'l-Taigan).     By   this  xanto vizard  sire,  all 
the  forty  handmaidens,'  says  the  tradition,  'became 
pregnant,  and,  in  memory  of  them,  their  descend- 
ants  assumed  the  name  of  Kirghizes  (Kryk-Kys, 
forty  maidens).'     This  legend  is  occasionally  given 
with  additions  and  variations.       Another    version 
says,   that  the  princess  and  her  attendants    were 
miraculously  fecundated  after  having  tasted  the  foam 
of  the  lake  when  agitated,  and  were  in  consequence 
expelled  from  their  homes  by  their  relatives.     They 
wandered    about  in  the  desert   for   a  long  time. 
The  forty  maidens,  regarding  the  princess  as  the 
cause  of  their  misfortunes,  at  last  rebelled  against 
her,  and  drove  her  beyond  the  Chu.      Here   the 
poor  daughter  of  the  Khan  was  found  by  the  pro- 
genitor of  the  Kirghizes,  w  ho  installed  her  as  one  of 
his  wives,  and  whom  she  speedily  presented  with  a 
goodly  son,  named  Kyrgyz-Beg.     This  personage 
is  considered  the  true  founder  of  the  Dikokamenni 
race.     He  was  persecuted  by  his  other  brothers  on 
account  of  his  dubious  origin,  and  portioned  off  on 
the  death  of  his  father  ;    ultimately,  however,  he 
triinnphed  over  his  brothers,  having  succeeded  in 
stealing  from  his  mother's   '  yurt,'  the  Kumis  stick 
and  l)ridle,  whicli  are  sym1)ols  of  priority  of  birth." 


Ancestry  of  the  Kara-Kirghiz  Horde.       275 

From  Kyrgyz-Beg,  the  traditions  become  more 
distinct,  and  lose  their  imaginative  character.  The 
proper  names  of  the  Kara-Kirghiz  chief  ancestors 
are,  nevertheless,  very  doubtful. 

Kyrgyz-Beg  had  two  grand-sons  :  Abl  and  Kovl. 
The  latter  was  the  founder  of  the  Kokche,  Soru, 
Mundus,  and  Kytai  tribes,  which  are  conjointly 
designated  Sol — i.  e.  Left  (Western  Buruts  of 
Klaproth).  From  Abl  there  sprang  ten  tribes, 
forming  the  On,  or  Bight  division  (Eastern  Buruts). 
The  tribes  forming  it  are :  the  Bogu,  Sary-Baguiche, 
Sultu,  Cherik,  Sayak,Adygine,  Baguiche,  Monandyr, 
Djadygyr,  and  Tungatar.  All  these  petty  roaming 
mountain  tribes  occupy  the  country  between 
Badakshan  and  Kungei-Alataii,  from  the  Tekes  and 
Muzart  passes  to  Kokan  and  Samarkand.  The  tribes 
with  which  we  are  best  acquainted  are  the  Diko- 
kamennl,  Sary-Baguiche,  Sultu,  and  Bogu.  The 
first-named  at  present  wander  along  the  upper 
course  of  the  Chu,  as  far  p  the  Western  extremity 
of  Issyk-Kul.  They  number  about  10,000  yurts, 
or  not  less  than  40,000  individuals.  They  are  a 
warlike  race,  and  their  most  celebrated  chiefs  at 
present  are  Umbet-Ali,  Turegildy,  Ruskul-Beg, 
Adil,  and  Djantai.  Eastward  of  the  Sary-Baguiches, 
along  the  Tiube,  Karkara,  and   Tekes,    roam  the 

T  2 


276  Travch  in  Central  Ji^in. 

Bogus,  whose  late  high  chief,  Buram-bai,  was  the 
first  of  the  Kara-Kirghizes  who  swore  fealty  to 
Russia.  At  the  present  time,  the  Bogus  have  no 
influential  chiefs,  and  the  tribe  being  split  up  into 
numerous  sub- divisions,  has  lost  its  former  weight, 
particularly  from  its  strife  with  the  Sary-Baguiches. 
After  these  two  sub-hordes,  the  nearest  to  the 
Russian  boundaries  is  the  Sultys,  a  small  tribe 
numbering  6000  yurts,  but  the  most  warlike  in 
the  whole  Dikokamenni  Horde.  The  Sultys  inhabit 
the  Kirghiz-Alatau  mountains,  from  Tokmak  to 
Aulie-Ata,  and  their  camping- grounds  are  conter- 
minous on  the  East  with  those  of  the  Sary- 
Baguiches.  Their  most  influential  chief  is  Djan-Ka- 
ratch.  On  the  South,  the  Sultys  spread  only  as  far 
as  the  valley  of  the  Talas,  beyond  which  they  are 
succeeded  by  various  tribes  of  the  right  and  left 
divisions  of  the  Horde. 

The  Sayaks  roam  on  the  Southern  side  of  the 
Celestial  mountains,  along  the  upper  course  of  the 
Navyn  ;  to  the  Eastward  of  them,  as  far  as  Aksii 
and  Nuan  to  Kucha,  are  the  camping-grounds  of 
tlie  Cheriks.  These  tribes,  with  their  neighbours, 
the  Bagniches,  descend  in  winter  from  the  slopes 
of  the  Thian-Shan  into  the  valley  of  the  Tarym, 
and    thence    push    forward    as    far   as    Kashgar, 


Distribution  of  the  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes.  277 

Yarkend,  and  even  Khotan.  The  geographical 
distribution  of  the  other  branches  of  the  Horde  is 
difficult  to  determine ;  it  is  certain,  however,  that 
they  occupy  the  whole  system  of  the  Bolor,  Badak- 
shan,  Karatigen,  and  Vokhan  chains,  and  frequent 
the  neighbourhoods  of  Ush,  Andijan,  Kokan,  and 
even  Tashkend,  to  the  N.W.,  and  Samarkand  to 
the  S.W.  The  influence  of  these  tribes  in  the 
Khanat  of  Kokan  is  very  great ;  the  first  minister 
of  the  Khan,  Alym-Beg  is  a  scion  from  the 
Andygine  tribe,  while  to  that  of  Karatigen  belongs 
the  well-known  leader  of  the  Kokan  army,  who  in 
1860  attacked  Kastek. 

The  political  condition  of  the  Dikokamenni 
Kirghizes  is  at  once  varied,  uncertain,  and  ill- 
defined.  Some  of  them,  as  for  instance,  the 
Bogus,  and  part  of  the  Sary-Baguiches,  profess  to 
be  subject  to  Russia,  although  internally  they  are 
not  governed  by  that  country,  and  only  occasion- 
ally appeal  to  the  Russian  authorities  for  the 
settlement  of  their  own  intestine  disputes.  Other 
tribes,  such  as  the  Sultu,  Adygine,  Kytai,  &c.,  of 
the  Sol  or  Left  division,  own  allegiance  to  Kokan, 
and  pay  tribute  to  that  Khanat.  A  third  portion, 
composed  of  the  Cheriks  and  Baguiches,  pay  the 
Chinese  a  land-tax,  although  they  govern  them- 


27)5  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

selves.  Lastly,  the  tribes  on  the  extreme  South, 
occupying  the  Bolor  mountains,  Karatigen,  and 
Badakshan,  are,  partly  independent,  and  partly 
subject  to  Bokhara,  Kunduz,  or  Kokan,  with 
which  States  they  are,  nevertheless,  often  at  enmity. 
Respecting  the  inhabitants  of  these  highlands  of 
Asia,  we  have  scarcely  any  information.  Burnes, 
in  his  "  Travels  to  Bokhara,"  only  casually 
observes  that  the  Kirghizes,  natives  of  the  Pamir 
whom  he  met,  have  flat  faces,  and  resemble  the 
Turkmen.  In  other  places  he  mentions  that 
their  food  consists  of  meat  and  milk,  and  that  flour 
is  not  known  to  them.  But  neither  Burnes 
nor  Wood  touches  on  the  moral  condition  of  these 
moimtaineers. 

Among  the  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes  upon  the 
outskirts  of  Russia,  there  are  no  aristocratic  races 
like  the  Sultan  families  in  the  Kaisak  Hordes. 
The  people  consequently  form  one  equal  mass, 
differing  only  according  to  their  sub-division  in 
branches.  The  Kara-Kirghizes  are  governed  by 
Manaps,  or  elders,  who  at  one  time  received  their 
titles  by  election,  though  these  have  now  become 
hereditary.  The  word  Manap  literally  means  a 
tyrant,  in  the  ancient  Greek  sense.  It  was  at  first 
the  proper  name   of  an  elder  distinguished  for  his 


Oriyin  of  name  Kara-Kuyhiz.  279 

Cruelty  and  unrelenting  spirit ;  from  him  the  ap- 
pellation became  general  to  all  Kirghiz  rulers. 
In  addition  to  the  Manaps,  who,  as  already 
observed,  are  not  of  aristocratic  lineage,  the 
Kirghizes  have  Bis,  who  settle  their  differences. 
These  Bis  found  their  judgments  on  the  customs 
of  the  people,  but  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say 
that  they  are  far  from  being  impartial.  Truth, 
throughout  Central  Asia,  is  subservient  to  the 
powerful,  and  the  niler  who  governs  leniently  com- 
mands but  little  respect. 

The  name  of  Kara- Kirghiz,  or  Black  Kirghiz, 
may  be  traced  to  the  undistinguished  oi'igin  of 
their  chiefs,  the  Manaps,  who,  according  to 
Kirghiz  phraseology,  do  not  spring  from  the 
"white  bone"  of  the  Sultans.  It  must  be  re- 
marked that  although  the  organization  of  the 
people  is  democratic,  its  elders  enjoy  great  power. 
The  influence  of  a  Manap  is  particularly  strong, 
when  he  is  likewise  a  Batyr — /.  c.  a  brave  and 
dashing  leader  of  marauding  expeditions.  Buram- 
bai,  the  ruler  of  the  Bogus,  was  a  chief  of  this 
description.  In  general,  the  Manaps  do  not  derive 
any  regular  income  from  the  people,  but  receive 
voluntary  contributions,  and  impose  fines  on  those 
they  find  guilty  of  misdemeanours.     I   need  not 


2yO  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

point  out  the  evils  that  arise  from  such  a  state  of 
things,  or  the  faciHties  which  the  Manaps  and  Bis 
enjoy  for  satisfying  at  once  their  ambition  and 
cupidity. 

Life  and  Condition  of  the  Kara-Kirghizes. — The 
Kara-Kirghizes,  like  the  nomads  of  the  neighbom*- 
ing  Steppe,  derive  all  their  wealth  from  cattle 
breeding  ;  but  the  Dikokamenni  are  generally  not 
so  well  off  as  the  Kirghizes  of  the  Great  and  Middle 
Hordes.  Very  few  amongst  them  possess  as  many 
as  two  thousand  horses  or  three  thousand  sheep. 
They  likewise  keep  fewer  camels,  but  on  the  other 
hand,  they  have  an  excellent  breed  of  oxen,  which 
are  employed  for  traversing  the  mountains.  The 
camels  are  the  ordinary  double-humped  or  Bactrian 
camel  of  classical  writers,  and  the  single-humped, 
or  dromedary,  which  latter  is  universally  preferred. 
Although  the  cows  belonging  to  the  Dikokamenni 
are  of  a  large  size,  they  yield  but  little  milk,  and 
then  only  when  with  calf.  Yaks  are  kept  instead 
of  cows  by  the  Kara-Kirghizes,  by  whom  they  are 
called  "  Kudos."  From  these  more  milk  is  obtained 
than  from  ordinary  cattle.  Their  sheep  are  of  the 
Kirghiz  breed,  but  have  finer  fleeces.  The  horses 
are  small,  but  being  hardy,  are  well  adapted  for 


A(jnculture  and  the  Chase.  281 

the  mountainous  country.  The  cattle  are  never  sub- 
ject to  epidemics;  the  only  disease  that  attacks  them 
is  the  Sarpa,  a  sort  of  dry  rot,  by  which  they  gene- 
rally lose  their  hoofs.  Until  quite  recently  the  Bogus 
were  the  largest  cattle  breeders  ;  now,  however,  the 
flocks  and  herds  of  the  Sary-Baguiches  are  fully  as 
large.  Both  these  tribes  are  richer  than  any  of  the 
rest.  The  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes  are  generally  em- 
ployed in  agriculture.  Although  the  soil  is  mostly 
clayey,  and  becomes  dreadfully  parched  by  the  sun, 
yet  by  an  ingenious  system  of  artificial  irrigation, 
it  yields  good  harvests,  millet  yielding  seventy  and 
wheat  eighty  fold.  The  richest  land  lies  at  the 
Eastern  extremity  of  Lake  Issyk-Kul,  along  the 
Tiub  and  Djirgalan,  the  Zaiiku,  and  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Tokmak  and  Pishpek ;  along  the 
Northern  and  Southern  shores  of  Issyk-Kul,  the 
soil  is  stony  and  therefore  but  little  cultivated. 
The  Kara-Kirghizes  sow  principally  millet,  wheat, 
barley  (for  horses),  and  kupock,  a  smaller  kind  of 
millet,  from  which  they  distil  a  spirit. 

The  chase  is  not,  as  with  most  semi-barbarous 
races,  a  special  pursuit,  by  the  Kara-Kirghizes, 
although  the  mountains  abound  with  game.  Oc- 
casionally, however,  they  hunt  the  wild  sheep, 
antelope,  and   goat    for    pastime.       The    deer  is 


282  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

killed  for  its  horns  alone,  which  when  containing 
blood,  are  highly  prized  by  the  Chinese  as  a  medi- 
cine, and  sold  at  from  £8  to  £25  per  pair,  according 
to  their  quality.  Besides  the  eagle,  the  Dikokamenni 
kill  foxes  and  martens,  whose  skins  they  dispose  of 
to  Tartar  merchants,  though  not  in  great  quantities! 
They  likewise  hunt  bears  and  wolves,  but  do  not 
know  how  to  prepare  the  skins,  which  the  rich 
Kara-Kirghizes  accordingly  use  undressed  as  car- 
pets for  their  tents. 

The  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes  are  not  fond  of  fish, 
and  catch  but  httle,  notwithstanding  that  [jake 
Issyk-Kul  might  yield  the  man  abundant  supply  of 
this  delicious  food.  Carp,  in  particular,  are  very 
plentiful  in  its  waters. 

The  chief  staple  of  industry  among  the  Kara- 
Kirghizes  is  the  preparation  of  felts,  which  are  in 
great  demand  on  account  of  their  durability.  The 
Dikokamenni  who  range  along  the  Talas  manufac- 
ture the  best.  The  Kara-Kirghiz  felt  hats,  conical 
in  shape,  with  a  turned-up  brim,  are  much 
esteemed  throughout  all  the  Hordes.  The  women 
weave  a  rough  material  of  camel's  hair,  called 
"  Armiachina"  by  the  Russians.  The  dress  of  a 
Dikokamenni  Kirghiz  consists  of  a  Khalat,  or  long 
robe,  with  wide  pantaloons,   or  "  Chembars."     A 


State  of  Trade.  283 

shirt  is  also  sometimes  worn,  but  this  article  of 
clothing  is  not  taken  off,  but  is  suffered  to  fall  to 
pieces  on  the  person  of  the  wearer. 

The  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes,  with  the  exception 
of  those  in  the  vicinity  of  towns,  do  not  traffic 
directly  in  any  of  their  own  productions.  They 
even  do  not  drive  horses  to  Kokan,  Kashgar, 
or  Kuldja.  All  the  trade  in  their  country  is  carried 
on  by  Tashkend,  Kokan  and  Kashgar  caravans,  and 
partly  by  Russian  merchants.  These  supply  the 
Kara-Kirghizes,  with  all  their  requirements,  and 
sometimes  remain  a  whole  year  among  their  aMs. 
Prom  Kashgar  the  Dikokamenni  are  supplied  with 
cotton  stuffs,  khalats,  biaz,  printed  cottons,  dried 
fruit,  &c.  These  goods  the  merchants  exchange 
with  great  profit  for  sheep.  Russian  goods  are 
brought  hither  by  Tartars,  who  find  a  sale  for  the 
inferior  articles  which  they  cannot  dispose  of  in  the 
more  civilized  parts  of  the  Russian  empire.  They 
thus  sell  cheap  cotton  prints,  nankeen,  calico, 
leather,  ironware,  small  looking-glasses,  ear-rings, 
&c.  Metallic  productions  and  leather  are  in  very 
great  demand.  Oxen,  sheep,  fox,  and  marten  skins 
are  procured  in  exchange.  The  profits  of  the  mer- 
chants are  very  great,  as  a  yard  of  red  cloth  worth 
about  three  shillings  is  exchanged  for  three  sheep ; 


2 84  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

a  hide  of  "  yufta  "  for  seven  and  eight  sheep  ;  while 
cast-iron  and  iron  wares  are  sold  at  still  higher 
prices.  The  camping  grounds  of  the  Kara- 
Kirghizes  are  besides  yearly  visited  by  Chinese  from 
Kuldja,  under  pretence  of  verifying  the  boundaries, 
and  supply  the  Horde  with  tea,  rice,  tobacco,  and 
silks,  at  moderate  rates;  or  in  exchange  for  sheep. 
Coloured  silks  are  obtained  from  Kokan  and 
Tashkend,  though  in  small  quantities,  and  chiefly 
for  the  rich  Manaps  and  their  Avives. 

As  already  mentioned,  those  Kara-Kir- 
ghizes, who  are  subject  to  Kokan,  pay  a  yearly 
tribute  to  that  Khanat.  This  tribute  is  called  a 
Ziaket,  and  consists  of  the  following  imposts,  viz. — 
The  Tunluk-Ziaket,  or  smoke  tax,  amounting  to  a 
sheep  from  each  tent.  Koi-Ziaket,  or  sheep  tax ; 
one  sheep  out  of  every  fifty,  forty,  or  twenty,  ac- 
cording to  circimistances.  Harazela,  an  impost  on 
agricultural  products ;  one  sheep  from  each  corn- 
barn.  Besides  these  taxes,  the  Dikokamenni 
Kirghizes  contribute  three  sheep  from  each  tent  to- 
wards the  maintenance  of  troops.  The  Sultys  and 
a  portion  of  the  Sary-Baguiches  annually  supply  the 
Kokanian  troops  with  5500  puds — about  forty- 
four  quarters — of  wheat  and  millet.  They  are  also 
obliged  to  entertain  the  Ziaketches  (tax-gatherers), 


Organized  Marauding  of  the  Bikokamenni.  385 

who  make  their  circuits  in  large  parties,  at  their 
own  cost.  It  is  certain  that  the  pressure  of  these 
taxes  does  not  produce  continual  disturbances,  only 
because  the  Kokanians  profess  the  same  creed  as 
the  Kara-Kirghizes.  In  those  parts  where  the 
Dikokamenni  pay  tribute  to  China,  they  stand  in 
quite  different  relations  to  the  predominating  popu- 
lation, with  whom  they  are  constantly  at  war,  as  ex- 
emplified by  their  driving  away  the  cattle  of  the 
Chinese  as  well  as  those  of  the  Kalmyks. 

The  Dikokamenni  are  in  fact  more  addicted  to 
cattle  stealing,  than  any  of  the  other  Kirghiz  tribes, 
and  their  "  Barantas  "  or  marauding  expeditions 
are  by  no  means  conducted  in  that  chivalrous  spirit 
that  characterizes  those  undertaken  by  the  Kir- 
ghizes of  the  Hordes  subject  to  Russia.  The 
Barantas  of  the  Kara-Kirghizes  are  organized  on  a 
military  plan,  but  with  the  avowed  object  of  rob- 
bing some  neighbour  both  of  his  life  as  well  as  his 
property.  The  attacks  of  the  Sary-Baguiche  on  the 
auls  of  the  Bogus,  between  whom  there  exists 
a  deadly  feud,  are,  in  particular,  attended  with 
great  bloodshed.  However,  the  valour  of  the 
wandering  mountaineers  is  mostly  limited  to  cattle 
lifting  and  pursuing  a  flying  enemy ;  as  soon  as 
there  is  a  prospect  of  a  fair  stand-up  encounter,  aKir- 


286  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

ghiz,  after  galloping  half  a  mile  after  his  foe,  will 
discreetly  turn  his  horse's  head,  and  retreat  without 
engaging  him.  In  their  relations  with  the  Russian 
Kirghizes  of  the  Great  Horde,  the  Dikokamenni 
exhibit  the  darker  side  of  their  character ;  prowling 
across  the  mountains  in  small  parties,  they  steal 
the  cattle  of  their  neighbours,  by  two  or  three  head 
at  a  time.  The  Russian  Kirghizes  mercilessly  hunt 
down  these  petty  thieves.  Thus,  Suranchi,  a  Kirghiz- 
Batyr,  or  warrior- chief,  whom  I  knew,  was  in  the 
habit  of  sending  out  his  "  Djigits  "  nightly  in  the 
summer  to  intercept  these  plunderers  in  the  moim- 
tains  with  their  booty.  When  caught,  they  were 
bound  in  fetters,  and  only  regained  their  liberty 
when  ransomed  by  their  tribe.  Suranchi  on  one 
occasion  offered  me  one  of  these  prisoners  as  a 
present.  The  unhappy  wretch  was  brought  for- 
ward with  his  hands  tied  and  a  heavy  chain  round 
his  neck ;  at  my  request  he  was  liberated  and  made 
to  understand  that  the  Russians  did  not  require 
slaves,  but  wished  all  to  live  in  freedom  and  amity. 
"Kulduk,  thank  him,  dog,"  said  Suranchi,  as 
he  struck  the  Dikokamenni,  who  had  remained 
silent,  on  the  head  with  his  whip.  Nevertheless 
these  unfriendly  relations  do  not  prevent  the  Riis- 
sian  Kirghizes  from  intermarrying  with  the  Dikoka- 


Gross  Ignorance  of  the  Hordes.  287 

menni,  and  during  my  stay,  while  the  tribes  were 
at  open  variance,  many  of  our  own  Kirghizes 
visited  the  auls  of  the  Dikokamenni  with  the  object 
of  seeing  their  brides,  cousins,  &c< 

The  spiritual  condition  of  the  Buruts  is  on  the 
same  low  level  as  their  social  state  of  development. 
In  justice    they  must  be    viewed    as    children  of 
nature,  in  the  most  mournful  sense  of  the  term. 
AH    their   conceptions  and  ideas  of  morality  are 
founded  upon  the  rudest  beliefs  and  prejudices. 
Before  the  arrival  of  the  Russians  at  Lake  Issyk-Kul, 
the  only  sources  of  learning  in  the  Horde  were 
wandering  Tashkendians  who  taught  the  children  to 
spell  through  the  first  chapter  of  the  Koran,    but 
without  explaining  its  meaning.     Since  the  appear- 
ance of  the  Russian  Tartars  the  number  of  those 
who  can  read  and  write  has  somewhat  increased, 
and  the  want  of  education  is  beginning  to  be  more 
felt,   so    much    so  that  many  Dikokamenni    Kir- 
ghizes, not  having  the  means  of  instruction  among 
themselves,  send  their  children  to  their  friends  in 
the  Great  Horde,  in  whose  aiils  Tartar  teachers  are 
almost  always  to  be  found.     But  even  at  present 
there  is  hardly  one  Kara-Kirghiz  among  a  thousand 
who  can  read  and  write,  and  the  majority  of  their 
Manaps  are  as  ignorant  as  the  mass  of  the  people 


288  Travels  in  Central  Aniri. 

themselves.  I  was  myself  a  witness  to  the  amusing 
astonishment  of  one  Manap,  when  he  was  shown 
a  document  bearing  his  own  seal,  in  which  he  had 
confessed  to  a  "Baranta;"  he  little  thought  that 
in  affixing  his  seal  to  this  piece  of  paper,  his 
enemy  had  made  him  confirm  a  deposition  of  his 
own  guilt. 

The  religion  of  the  Dikokamenni  Kirghizes  is 
Islamism ;  their  Mahomedanism,  however,  is 
very  superficial,  particularly  among  the  tribes  ad- 
jacent to  China.  Some  Kara-Kirghizes  are  not 
alone  unacquainted  with  the  ninety-nine  names  of 
Allah,  but  do  not  even  know  the  name  of  their 
prophet !  Drunkenness,  which  is  strictly  forbidden 
by  the  Koran,  is  not  regarded  as  a  sin  by  the 
Dikokamennis.  Mende,  a  venerable  Manap  of 
threescore  years,  after  drinking  about  two  quarts 
of  brandy  during  the  day,  boasted  that  he  could 
gallop  any  distance  in  the  evening  without  losing 
his  saddle.  In  many  other  things  they  openly  vio- 
late the  prescribed  rules  of  the  Koran  through 
ignorance.  Strangely  enough,  some  customs  of 
Shamanism  are  still  retained  by  the  people.  Ac- 
cording to  Mr.  Bardashef,  the  Kara-Kirghizes  wor- 
ship fire,  and  celebrate  this  religious  rite  on  the  night 
of  Thursday.       Grease   is  thrown  over  the  flames. 


J^enernlioH  for  the  Departed.  289 

round  which  nine  lamps  are  placed.  Prayers  are 
also  read  if  a  literate  person  be  present,  during 
which  the  worshippers  remain  prostrate. 

The  Kara-Kirghizes  likewise  reverence  the  re- 
maining monuments  of  an  ancient  race  which  for- 
merly inhabited  the  country.  Near  Tokmak  there 
is  a  high  brick  column  held  in  great  veneration,  in 
which,  according  to  popular  tradition,  a  certain  Khan 
built  up  his  daughter  after  her  death,  in  order  to 
preserve  her  body  from  venomous  insects  ! 

The  old  relics  of  their  own  people  are  yet  more 
highly  reverenced.  The  tombs  of  their  ancestors 
are  held  sacred,  and  they  are  generally  surrounded 
by  stone  walls.  To  remove  the  remains  or  any 
appurtenance  belonging  to  the  dead  is  considered 
a  crime.  Public  games,  or  Baigas,  as  among  the 
other  Kirghizes,  are  instituted  in  conraiemoration  of 
deceased  persons,  and  these  sports  are  celebrated  on  a 
larger  scale,  if  the  departed  had  been  wealthy  and 
powerful.  Races,  however,  constitute  the  chief 
attraction  of  these  Baigas.  As  the  Dikokamenni 
are  poorer  than  other  Kirghiz  tribes,  the  prizes 
given  away  are  not  so  valuable  as  those  of  the 
Middle  and  Great  Hordes.  There,  as  many  as  nine 
nines,  or  81  head  of  cattle,  and  even  slaves  oc- 
casionally, fall  to  the  winner.     Although  the  prizes 

u 


~yO  Travels  ill  Central  Asia. 

of  the  Buruts,  on  such  occasions,  likewise  usually 
consist  of  male  and  female  slaves,  they  are  not  so 
profuse  in  awarding  cattle.  Wrestling  is  also 
practised  at  these  Baigas ;  and  another  coarser 
form  of  amusement  is  to  seize  a  coin  with  the 
mouth  out  of  a  vessel  filled  with  sour  milk.  This, 
as  is  usual  with  a  rude,  ignorant  population,  is  the 
favourite  game,  and  excites  great  amusement.  The 
use  of  the  hands  is  not  allowed,  and  the  dexterity 
of  the  venturesome  Kirghiz  must  be  confined  to  his 
mouth.  His  exertions  to  catch  the  coin  are  some- 
times so  severe,  that  blood  flows  from  the  nose  and 
ears  ;  at  this  stage  the  place  of  the  player  is  taken 
by  another  thirsty  Kirghiz,  avaricious  for  the 
money. 

In  18G0,  a  Sara-Bap;uiche  poet  or  rhapsodist  was 
attached  to  the  Russian  expeditionary  column. 
lie  every  evening  attracted  round  him  a  crowd  of  gap- 
ing admirers,  who  greedily  listened  to  his  stories  and 
songs.  His  imagination  was  remarkably  fertile  in 
creating  feats  for  his  hero — the  son  of  some 
Khan — and  took  most  daring  flights  into  the 
regions  of  marvel.  The  greater  part  of  his  rap- 
turous recitation  Avas  improvised  by  him  as  he  pro- 
ceeded, the  subject  alone  being  borrowed  usually 
from  some  tradition.     His  wonderfully  correct  in- 


Imaginatki'  Strain  of  their  Iviprorisatori.   391 

tonation,  which  enabled  every  one  who  even  did 
not  understand  the  words,  to  guess  their  meaning, 
and  the  pathos  and  fire  which  he  skilfully  imparted 
to  his  strain,  showed  that  he  was  justly  entitled  to 
the  admiration  of  the  Kirghizes  as  their  chief  bard. 
AVhen  the  chief  of  the  expedition  gave  an  enter- 
tainment to  the  Kirghizes  on  the  Kutemaldy,  this 
poet  loudly  and  eloquently  extolled  the  virtues  of 
the  giver  of  the  feast — probably  with  a  view  to  a 
noble  largesse,  while  his  fellow  countrymen  seemed 
to  appreciate  the  song  of  their  bard  fully  as  much 
as  the  pillau  that  they  had  been  treated  with,  though 
to  do  them  justice,  they  brought  to  the  latter  an  ex- 
cellent and  by  no  means  fastidious  appetite. 


u  2 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

History  of  the  Establishment  of  Russian  Rule 
ON  THE  Sea  of  Aral  and  on  the  River  Syr- 
Daria  (Jaxartes)  from  1847  to  1S62. 


General  Review  of  the  Orenburg  Region  and  its 
Future  Importance. — First  Appearance  of  the 
Russians  in  these  Parts. — The  Sea  of  Aral  and 
the  Sgr-TJaria. — Establishment  of  Russian  Ride 
in  the  Steppe  since  1833.^ — Erection  of  Forts  in 
the  Steppe  and  on  the  Shores  of  the  Sea  of  Aral. 
—The  Aral  Flotilla. 

1S47— 1852. 

In  an  administrative  sense,  there  is  comprehended 
under  the  Orenburg  region  a  vast  extent  of  country, 
roarhing  on  the  North  to  the  river  Kama,  on  the 


Territory  under  Cona'i deration.  293 

West  to  the  Volga,  on  the  South  to  the  Caspian  and 
Aral  Seas  and  river  Syr-Daria,  and  on  the  East  to 
the  Sary-Su  river  and  Ulu-Tau  mountains.  Besides 
the  governments  of  Orenburg  and  Samara,  and  the 
lands  of  the  Orenburg  and  Ural  Cossacks,  this  re- 
gion contains  within  itself  extensive  Steppes,  occu- 
pied by  roaming  Kirghizes.  Notwithstanding  the 
thinness  of  its  population,  and  the  barren  and  desert 
Steppes,  which  separate  the  commercial  points  on 
the  Caspian  from  the  fertile  oases  that  occur  along 
the  course  of  the  rivers  Syr  and  Amu-Darias,  and, 
in  spite  of  the  difficulty  of  communication  be- 
tween the  Eastern  provinces  of  Russia  and  the 
countries  of  Central  Asia,  this  region  is  of  great 
importance  to  Russia.  And  although  its  present 
condition  is  capable  of  great  improvement,  there  is 
not  the  slightest  doubt  but  that  a  brilliant  future 
awaits  it — that  it  will  become  the  great  highway 
of  trade  between  Central  Asia  and  Western  Europe, 
and  that  Russian  productions  will  eventually  be 
exchanged  in  its  markets  for  Asiatic  goods. 

A  detailed  and  systematic  account  of  the 
gradual  advance  of  Russia  in  this  region,  and  of 
her  relations  with  Central  Asia,  will  be  subsequently 
presented  to  the  reader.  For  the  present,  in  order 
to  make  him  familiar  with  the  more  recent  events 


294  Trareh  in  Central  Jsia. 

on  the  Syr-Daria,  we  shall  confine  ourselves  to  a 
sketch  of  the  progress  of  Russia  here  during  the 
last  fifteen  years,  alluding  but  briefly  to  the  occur- 
rences prior  to  that  period. 

The  spread  of  Russia  beyond  the  Volga  and 
Ural  commenced  in  the  sixteenth  century,  with  the 
fall  of  the  kingdoKL  of  Kazan  and  Astrakhan.  But 
neither  the  intenral  condition  of  Russia,  nor  the 
political  circumstances  of  the  period,  imparted 
any  significance  to  this  movement  Eastward.  On 
the  accession  of  Mikhail  Fedorovitch  to  the  throne, 
the  Don  Cossacks,  who  had  settled  in  the  sixteenth 
century  on  the  Yaika,  or  river  Ural,  swore  fealty 
to  the  Tsardom  of  Moscow,  and  the  advance  of 
Russia  on  the  East  commences  from  this  river. 

In  1 574,  the  original  inhabitants  of  the  Orenburg 
region — the  Bashkirs,  voluntarily  petitioned  for 
the  construction  of  a  Russian  town  in  their  country. 
With  the  foundation  of  Ufa,  49"  40'  N.,  50°  20'  E,  Sa- 
mara, 49°  30  N.  58  E,  and  other  towns,  Bashkiria 
became  permanently  attached  to  Russia,  and  all  the 
insurrections  that  took  place  after  that  period  ter- 
minated with  a  cruel  punishment  of  the  rebellious 
Bashkirs. 

Peter  the  Great  was  the  first  Russian  Sovereign 
who,  with  characteristic  penetration,  perceived  the 


Rise  of  the  Omsk  Department.  295 

importance  and  significance  for  Russia  of  the 
Trans-Volga  region.  In  1722,  when  in  Astrakhan, 
he  thus  expressed  himself  on  this  subject :— "  Al- 
though these  Kirghizes  are  a  roaming  and  fickle 
people,  their  Steppe  is  the  key  and  gates  to  all  the 
countries  of  Central  Asia." 

Five  years  after  the  death  of  Peter  the  Great, 
Abdul-Hair,  Khan  of  the  smaller  Kirghiz  Horde, 
oppressed  by  the  Dzungarians  and  harassed  by  the 
Bashkirs  and  Kalmyks,  sought  the  protection  of 
Russia,  and  swore  allegiance  to  the  Empress  Anne 
in  1732.  In  order  that  his  subjection  should  in- 
volve practical  results,  it  was  necessary  to  remove 
the  Russian  military  boundary  much  farther  south- 
wards. In  this  manner,  owing  to  the  exertions  of 
the  first  Russian  governors  of  the  region — Kirilov, 
Tatischef  and  Nepluyef — the  towns  of  Omsk  and 
Uralsk,  between  which,  up  to  1730,  there  existed 
only  the  one  small  town  of  Sakmarek,  became  con- 
nected together  by  a  line  of  settlements  along  the 
shores  of  the  rivers  Ural  and  Uya.  Dating  from 
this  period,  neither  the  constant  rebellions  of  the 
Bashkirs,  the  inroads  of  the  Kirghizes,  nor  even  the 
insurrection  of  Pugachef,  could  weaken  the  power 
of  Russia  in  this  region ;  and  a  hundred  years  after 
the  submission  of  the  Kirghizes  and  Karakalpaks, 


29fi  Traoch  in  Ci'ntrnl  Jma. 

Russia  had  established  herself  firmly  on  the  Sea  of 
Aral  and  along  the  lower  branches  of  the  Syr- 
Daria ;  respecting  which  latter  occupation  a  few 
particulars  must  here  be  given. 

The  Greeks,  speaking  of  the  Jaxartes  and  Oxus, 
unanimously  and  positively  assert  that  both  these 
rivers  disembogued  into  the  Caspian.  From  this 
an  opinion  has  been  entertained,  that  the  Sea  of 
Aral  formed,  in  ancient  times,  a  part  of  the  Caspian. 
Mmnboldt,  however,  does  not  admit  this,  and  holds, 
in  spite  of  the  recent  formations  of  the  Ust-Urt,  (the 
isthmus  between  the  two  seas),  that  the  connection 
could  never  have  existed.  The  first  allusions  to  the 
existence  of  the  Sea  of  Aral,  are  made  by  Em-opean 
travellers  in  the  sixteenth  century.  The  Russians, 
however,  had  long  l)eeii  aware  of  the  existence  of 
the  "  Blue"  sea,  as  they  called  it,  and  into  which 
the  river  Syr  discharged  itself  on  the  East,*  but 
having  no  close  intercourse  with  Western  Europe, 
they  could  not  coninuniicate  their  knowledge.  It 
was  only  with  the  subjection  of  the  Kirghiz  Steppes, 
after  1840,  that  reliable  accounts  were  received  re- 
specting the  Sea  of  Aral,  which  covers  an  area  of 
about  23,000   s(juarc    geographical   miles.     Eroni 

^  From  the  "Book  of  the  Bolcluigo  Cherteja,''  a  kind  of  Russian 
Doomsday  Book. 


Features  of  the  Sea  of  Aral.  297 

the  large  body  of  water  discharged  into  it  by  the 
Amu-Daria  (Oxus)  and  Syr-Daria  (Jaxartes),  the 
lake,  although  brackish,  is  not  so  salt  as  the  waters 
of  the  ocean.  The  fish  that  are  found  in  it,  are 
small  sturgeons,  dog-fish,  carp,  and  a  peculiar 
herring.  Seals,  which  are  very  common  in  the  Cas- 
pian, do  not  exist  in  the  Aral.  There  are  no  shoals 
in  the  centre  of  the  sea,  and  they  only  occur  near 
the  sandy  and  depressed  coasts.  This  sea  belongs 
to  the  stc=rmy  and  troubled  class  of  waters.  The 
wind  freshens  suddenly,  raising  high  waves,  and 
leaving,  on  subsiding,  a  heavy  swell,  which  renders 
tacking  impossible.  Even  winds,  blowing  continu- 
ously for  several  days,  are  extremely  rare ;  there  is 
either  a  complete  lull  in  the  atmosphere,  or  heavy 
winds,  and  frequently  severe  gales.  The  vessels 
best  suited  for  navigating  this  sea  are  iron  steamers 
drawing  little  water ;  and  good  anchorage  grounds, 
protected  from  all  winds,  hardly  exist.  The  shores 
of  the  sea  present  the  appearance  of  a  desert.  In 
summer,  with  the  exception  of  some  parts  on  the 
South- West  and  South,  they  are  altogether  unin- 
habited. In  winter,  Kirghiz  encampments  occur 
along  the  Northern  and  Eastern  shores,  as  also  on 
the  adjoining  islands.  The  Northern  coast  is  low 
and  sandy,  and  being  very  sinuous,  forms    many 


298  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

baj's,  peninsulas,  and  capes.  The  "  Bolchie"  and 
Malie  Barksuki  sands  abut  on  this  part  of  the  sea. 
The  Western  shore  is  bordered  by  the  precipitous 
sides  of  the  Ust-Urt  plateau.  The  Southern  is  low, 
and  consists  of  reeds,  Avhich  cover  the  drift  mud 
brought  down  by  the  Amu-Daria,  and  of  sand 
thrown  up  by  the  wa\es.  The  Eastern  shore,  ad- 
jacent to  Avhich  are  the  Kyzyl-kum  sands,  is,  in 
general,  depressed,  sandy,  and  overgrown  with 
bushes  and  reeds. 

The  Syr-Daria  takes  its  source  in  several  streams 
in  the  snowy  Belur-Tag  (Bolor-Dagh  of  Indian 
authorities)  mountain  range,  extending  on  the 
Western  confines  of  Chinese  Turkestan. 

The  sources  of  geographical  information  respect- 
ing the  river  Syr-Darya,  are  exclusively  Russian. 
Almost  to  the  commencement  of  the  present  cen- 
tury we  had  no  certain  accounts  of  the  river,  while 
in  Russia,  we  find  already  in  the  Book  of  the 
Bolcha^o-Cherfcja,  sufficiently  accurate  descrip- 
tions of  the  "  Blue"  or  Aral  Sea,  the  Kara-Kum 
sands,  the  rivers  Syr-Daria  and  Sary-Su,  and  of 
the  Kara-tail  mountains,  and  since  the  extension 
of  the  protection  of  Prussia  to  the  Karakalpaks  in 
1732,  our  knowledge  of  this  region  has  gradually 
increased. 


Physical  Features  of  the  Syr-Baria.        299 

The  River  Syr,  after  passing  the  Kara-tau  range, 
pursues  its  course  first  in  a  North-Westerly  direc- 
tion, and  then  Westerly  to  the  Sea  of  Aral,  and  di- 
vides into  a  considerable  number  of  branches  and 
irrigating  canals,  ■without  receiving  into  itself  a 
single  rivulet.  Part  of  the  Syr,  from  its  source  to 
the  Kara-Uziak  branch,  is  called  the  Djaman-Daria 
(bad  river),  probably  on  account  of  its  being  very 
tortuous  along  that  part  of  its  course,  and  not  so 
broad,  deep  and  rapid  as  at  other  parts.  Its 
breadth  is  not  uniform.  In  the  Kokanian  domi- 
nions, by  the  evidence  of  natives,  it  attains  400 
fathoms  ;  in  Russian  territory,  both  above  and  below 
Kara-Uziak,  it  is  from  50  to  100,  and  even  250 
fathoms  broad.  In  the  Djaman-Daria,  hovi^ever,  it 
is  considerably  smaller  than  at  other  parts,  not  ex- 
ceeding in  some  places  30  fathoms.  The  contrac- 
tion of  the  river  tovi^ards  its  mouth,  and  particularly 
in  the  Djaman-Daria,  must  be  attributed  to  the  un- 
compensated loss  of  a  large  body  of  water  which  is 
diverted  from  the  main  bed  into  innumerable 
branches,  expansions,  and  irrigation  canals.  The  ob- 
servations made  by  Captain  Ivaschinsov  show  that 
the  current  of  this  river  is  unequal  at  different  parts 
and  at  different  periods  of  the  year  and  day.  In 
summer,  at  full  water,  the  flow  above  Kara-Uziak 


300  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

is  from  two  and  a  half  to  four  knots ;  in  the 
Djaman-Daxia  from  one  to  two,  and  below  Kara- 
Uziak  from  one  and  a  quarter  to  two  and  a  half 
knots,  increasing  in  rapidity  at  the  bends  to  three 
and  even  five  knots.  During  the  autumnal  season, 
when  there  is  less  water  in  the  river,  the  current  is 
considerably  slower.  It  was  besides  remarked  dur- 
ing the  expedition  of  1853,  at  the  landing  place  of 
Port  Aralsk,  46°2'  N.,  61°  60'  E.,  that  the  current 
changed  during  the  day.  Tt  flows  more  rapidly  in 
the  morning  at  about  ten  or  eleven  o'clock,  becom- 
ing weaker  at  about  two  in  the  afternoon,  and  to- 
wards evening  sometimes  attains  its  matinal  ra- 
pidity. Its  water,  owing  to  this  rapidity  of 
current,  and  its  flowing  over  a  sandy-mud  bottom, 
is  always  turbid.  It  quickly  clears,  however,  when 
drawn  for  use,  is  perfectly  sweet,  and  is  salubrious, 
not  only  for  natives,  but  likewise  for  travellers. 

The  depth  of  the  river,  like  its  width  and  current, 
also  varies.  Generally  speaking,  the  Syr-Daria 
flows  through  a  deep  and  steep-banked  hollow,  the 
depth  at  about  one  fathom  from  the  shore  being  above 
a  man's  height,  and  then  progressing  from  one  fathom 
to  five  and  six  fathoms.  During  low  water,  shoals 
occasionally  occur  in  some  parts,  particularly  in  the 
Djaman-Daria,  and  at  the  mouths  of  the  Syr. 


Branches  of  the  8yr-J)aria,  301 

The  Syr-Daria  abounds  witli  excellent  fish.  Stur- 
geons, dog-fish,  carp,  bull-heads,  {cottus*),  sudaks, 
(somewhat  resembling  the  perch-pike,  or  sandre), 
pike,  rudd  [erytJirophalmus],  &c.,  are  among  the 
fish  caught  in  it.  The  appliances  of  the  Kir- 
ghizes for  catching  fish  are  very  rude ;  while  the 
Russians,  with  the  exception  of  the  Fishery  Com- 
pany of  the  Sea  of  Aral,  whose  operations  some- 
times extend  to  the  mouth  of  the  Syr-Daria,  only 
aim  at  supplying  their  own  occasional  wants. 

The  folld;wing  arms  and  lakes  occur  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Syr-Daria : — 

I.  The  Ber-Kazan  arm,  at  the  point  where  it 
diverges  from  the  Syr,  is  twenty  fathoms  wide,  and 
one  and  a  half  fathoms  deep,  and  continues  its 
course  in  a  series  of  polders  or  expansions,  which 
have  local  names,  and  are  mostly  overgrown  with 
reeds.  This  branch  finally  disappears  in  the  Kara- 
Uziak  marshes,  after  a  course  extending  over  about 
-thirty-five  miles. 

II.  The  Kara-Uziak  branch  has  no  regular  bed, 
but  consists  of  a  labyrinth  of  lakes  and  fens,  inter- 
spersed with  sheets  of  clear  water,  fringed  with 
reeds,  and  extends  from  Fort  Perovski  to  Fort  No.  2, 
one  hundred  versts  in  length,  and  from  fifteen  to 
thirty  versts  in  breadth.  Its  channel  is  interrupted  by 

*  Gottus  Gobio,—w  Miller's  Thuml). 


302  Travels  iv  Central  Asia. 

morasses  at  two  distinct  points — at  one  for  forty, 
and  at  another  for  ten  versts ;  and,  owing  to  this 
peculiarity,  the  water  at  the  mouth  of  this  river  is 
perfectly  clear,  though  of  a  marshy  taste. 

III.  The  Kazala  arm  has,  where  it  first  strikes 
ofi",  a  well-defined  bed,  about  twenty  fathoms  wide, 
with  a  depth  of  two  fathoms,  and  a  slight  current. 
Further  on,  its  energy  becomes  expended  in  reedy 
fens  and  aqueducts,  so  that,  like  the  Rhine,  its  bed 
cannot  be  traced,  and  it  reaches  Tal-Bugut  as  an 
insignificant  canal,  bearing  already  another  name  ! 
At  the  lower  course  of  the  Kazala  the  Ak-Gerik 
valley  spreads  in  a  Northerly  direction.  At  times 
it  becomes  flooded,  forming,  then,  either  one  large 
lake  or  a  series  of  small  lagoons. 

IV.  From  Tal-Buguta  to  Aman-Utkul  the  right 
bank  of  the  Syr  forms  a  depressed  valley,  by  far 
the  greater  part  of  which  is  overgrown  with  reeds, 
while  in  the  Northern  part  are  formed  the  lakes 
Rami,  Djalangatch,  Koiazdy,  and  Kamyshlybash, 
which  have  no  springs  of  their  own,  but  are  fed 
by  canals  conducted  from  the  Syr,  and  are,  in 
fact,  nothing  more  than  inundations  over  a  saline, 
marshy  valley  ;  the  water  in  them  is  consequently 
brackish,  and  becomes  decomposed,  if  not  le- 
freshed  by  the  flowing  stream  of  the  Syr. 


Branches  of  the  Si/r-Baria.  303 

The  following  branches  and  lakes  occur  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Syr-Daria : — 

I.  The  river  Djany-Daria  (in  Tartar  dialect 
Yany-Daria,  or  New  River)  is  a  Southern  branch 
of  the  Syr,  disemboguing  in  the  S.E.  part  of  the 
Sea  of  Aral.  According  to  the  Kirghiz,  this 
branch  was  formed  in  the  end  of  the-  last  century, 
when  the  Kara-Kalpaks,  driven  away  by  the 
Little  Kirghiz-Kaisak  Horde  from  the  lower  course 
of  the  Syr,  were  forced  to  migrate  elsewhere.  A 
portion  of  the  Kara-Kalpaks  advanced  up  the 
river,  and  occupied  the  lands  adjacent  to  the 
present  embouchure  of  the  Djany-Daria,  and  be- 
taking themselves  to  agriculture,  excavated  a  large 
canal,  which  ultimately  formed  a  branch  of  the 
river  Syr.  The  Kokanians,  after  the  erection  of 
Akmechet  fort,  dammed  up  the  Djany-Daria,  in 
order  to  deprive  the  Kirghizes  and  Kara-Kalpaks, 
who  had  fled  from  their  oppression  to  the  lower 
course  of  the  river,  under  the  protection  of  the 
Khivans,  of  all  possibility  of  subsisting  there 
and  of  pursuing  agriculture,  and  to  induce  them 
by  these  means  to  settle  around  Ak-Mechet.  This 
compulsory  measure  displeased  the  Khivans,  and 
they  repeatedly  endeavoured  to  induce  the  Khan 
to  demolish  the  dam,  but  their  intercession  was 
not  attended  with  success. 


304  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

II.  The  Kar-Bugut  dam  was  constructed  by  the 
Kokanians  two  versts  below  the  point  of  issue 
of  the  Djany-Daria  into  the  Syr,  near  the  ruins 
of  Fort  Sandyk- Kurgan,  where  the  breadth  of 
this  branch  is  not  more  than  six  fathoms.  The 
pressure  of  the  water  often  destroyed  the  dam, 
in  consequence  of  which  the  Kokanians  made 
several  attempts  to  arrest  the  course  of  the  river 
at  points  higher  up  in  its  course,  where  the  pres- 
sure of  the  water  would  be  less  strong.  In 
October,  1853,  the  old  Kokanian  dam,  near  the 
ruins  of  Sandyk-Kurgan,  which  had  been  de- 
molished by  the  Kirghiz  chief,  Bukhar-bai,  was 
repaired  by  the  Russians,  with  the  object  of 
raising  the  general  level  of  the  Syr-Daria,  so  as 
to  enable  steamers  to  navigate  it ;  the  dam,  how- 
ever, was  ere  long  once  more  destroyed  by  the 
pressure  of  the  water. 

III.  The  river  Kuvan-Daria  flows  first  South- 
wards, then  bends  to  the  West,  and,  dividing  into 
three  branches,  forms  a  lagoon,  which  is  covered 
with  reeds.  This  river  over  a  course  of  fifty-five 
versts  is  sufficiently  deep,  with  a  width  of  about 
thirty  fathoms  and  a  current  running  from  one  to 
three  knots ;  its  banks  are  low  and  bordered  with 
reeds,  and  in  parts  with  good  meadow  grass.     The 


Branches  of  the  Syr-Daria.  305 

lagoon  formed  by  the  branches  of  the  Kuvan- 
Daria  extends  from  E.  to  W.  for  seventy  versts, 
and  twenty  versts  in  width.  At  a  short  distance 
from  its  left  border,  at  eighty  versts  from  what 
was  formerly  Fort  No.  3,  are  the  ruins  of  the 
deserted  Khivan  fort,  Khodjanias. 

IV.  The  now  dried-up  Daria-lyk  branch,  which 
at  one  time  connected  the  Kuvan  with  the 
Djaman-Daria,  was  more  than  1.20  versts  in 
length. 

V.  The  Bish-Aram  branch  flows  out  of  the 
Syr  at  Utch-Urga  settlement,  its  course  bearing 
at  first  to  the  S.  W.  Soon  after  the  branching 
off  from  the  Syr,  it  separates  into  several  streams, 
of  which  the  Bish-Aram  loses  itself  in  reeds,  and 
forms  marshes.  Its  course  extends  altogether  over 
fifty  versts,  and  its  waters  are  sweet. 

VI.  The  Kara-Aryk  canal,  fifty  versts  in  length, 
forms  the  direct  connecting  link  of  the  river 
Syr-Daria  with  the  Sea  of  Aral.  In  the  lower 
course  of  the  Syr  such  canals  are  very  numerous, 
and'  are  modestly  termed  aryhs  or  ditches  by  the 
natives. 

VII.  From  Talbugut  to  Aman-Utkul,  the  left 
bank  of  the  Syr,  like  the  right,  presents  a  depres- 
sion, which  is  flooded  and  overgown  with  reeds, 

X 


306  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

and  bears  the  name  of  Kara-Kul  Lake.  Its  length, 
measured  along  the  course  of  the  river,  is  fifteen 
versts,  by  six  to  nine  versts  in  width.  At  its 
S.  E.  part,  it  forms  an  open  and  rather  large 
(Kara-Su)  bay,  whose  depth  is  as  much  as  seven 
fathoms. 

VIII.  Near  the  Aman-Ulkul  ferry,  are  the  two 
Sary-Kul  lakes,  whose  respective  areas  do  not 
exceed  one  verst  square. 

The  character  of  the  ground  around  the  basin  of 
the  lower  course  of  the  Syr-Daria,  depends  on  the 
degree  in  which  it  is  affected  by  the  waters. 
Thus,  wherever  the  banks  of  the  river  or  its  branches 
are  very  low,  either  lagoons  completely  overgrown 
with  thick  and  high  reeds,  or  else  ordinary  marshes, 
are  formed.  The  soil  consists  mostly  of  an 
alluvial  mud. 

The  Ber-Kogan,Kara-Uziak,  and  Kazala branches, 
the  upper  courses  of  the  Djany  and  Kuvan  Darias, 
between  what  was  known  as  Fort  No.  3,  and  that  of 
Hodjanias,  the  Bish-Aram  and  Utlyaii  branches, 
as  well  as  the  Syr-Daria  between  Tal-Bugut  and 
Aman-Utkul,  are  all  bordered  on  both  banks  by 
extensive  marshes. 

Where  the  banks  are  not  very  depressed,  and 
therefore  only  occasionally  submerged,  thus  becom- 


J^cffrtatioji  along  flic  Banks  of  the  Sj/r.      307 

iiig  enriched  with  alluvial  mud,  there  frequently 
occur  very  valuable  meadow  patches,  but  more 
frequently  flats  covered  with  small  reeds  inter- 
mixed with  meadow  grasses.  Such  spots  occur  in 
belts  of  varying  width  along  the  banks  of  the 
Syr  and  its  branches ;  the  banks  of  the  former  in 
particular,  above  the  Djaman,  and  those  of  the 
Djany  and  Kuvan-Daria  being  almost  exclusively 
bordered  by  this  description  of  vegetation. 

On  these  meadow  lands,  in  addition  to  the 
description  of  bushes  in  which  the  Southern  part 
of  the  Kirghiz  Steppe  abounds, — willows,  wild 
date-trees,  and  poplars  are  found  growing.  Wil- 
low trees  cover  the  greater  part  of  the  islands  of 
the  Syr,  and  date  trees  are  first  met  with  near 
Kazala,  at  some  points  at  and  beyond  Fort  Perovski, 
where  they  form  whole  woods.  The  poplar  is  com- 
paratively rare,  and  is  only  found  between  Fort 
Perovski  and  Djiilek. 

The  parts  which  are  not  exposed  to  inundation, 
form  saline  Steppes,  on  which  nothing  grows 
except  bushes  of  wormwood,  saksaul,  tamarisk, 
djuzgun,  chingil,  thorn,  and  many  other  prickly 
plants,  all  of  which  are  usually  met  with  on  the 
sands  and  meadows.  The  marshes,  meadow 
lands,  and  cultivated  fields  which  closely  adjoin  the 

X  2 


308  Trarch  in  (Mitml  Asia. 

right  bank  of  the  Syr,  from  Djiilek  to  the  settle- 
ment of  Ak-Suat,  are  bordered  by  sahne  Steppes, 
stretching  northwards  as  far  as  Tu'rgaef,  and  form- 
ing the  so-called  Barren  Steppe.  The  space 
between  the  rivers  Syr  and  Kuvan,  likewise  con- 
sists chiefly  of  saline  Steppe. 

Cultivated  fields  may  exist  in  the  meadow-land, 
as  also  in  the  saline  Steppe  itself,  so  long  as  the 
land  is  conveniently  situated  for  artificial  irrigation, 
by  which  it  is  moistened  and  fertilized  with  loam, 
and  experience  here  has  revealed  the  very  unex- 
pected fact  that  corn  grows  even  better  in 
saline  soil  than  on  ordinary  alluvial  ground  ! 
Agriculture  is  at  present  actively  pursued  along 
the  right  bank  of  the  Syr  from  Djiilek  to  the 
Djaman-Daria ;  and  along  both  banks  of  this 
river  below  Mailibash,  as  well  as  around  the 
deserted  Hodjanias  Fort,  and  the  Russian  forts 
Nos.  2  and  3.  The  existing  traces  of  aqueducts 
testify  that  cultivation  was  formerly  an  important 
avocation  in  other  parts,  and  especially  along  the 
right  shores  of  the  Kara-Uziak  lakes,  along  the 
upper  course  of  the  Djany  and  Kuvan  Darias,  &c. 

In  addition  to  the  tracts  already  described,  con- 
siderable plains  of  sand  are  found  at  the  lower 
part  of  the  Syr.     The  largest  of  these  form  the 


Aspect  of  the  Barren  Steppes.  309 

Kara-Kum  sands,  which  occupy  an  extent  of  225 
versts  in  length,  and  from  130  to  200  versts  in 
width,  and  are  confined  on  the  North  by  Lake 
Chelkar,  and  the  lower  course  of  the  Irgiz,  which, 
flowing  from  the  Westward,  debouches  into  that 
lake ;  on  the  West  by  a  saline  Steppe,  and  the  Sea 
of  Aral ;  on  the  South  by  the  river  Syr,  from  its 
mouth  as  far  up  as  Ak-Suat  settlement ;  and  on 
the  East  by  a  barren  Steppe.  This  region  is  for 
the  most  part  covered  with  friable  sands  and 
hillocks,  interspersed  occasionally  with  salines  and 
saline  hollows.  Not  a  single  river,  or  fresh  lake  is 
found  in  it,  and  drinkable  water  is  only  to  be 
obtained  from  wells  {kuduks),  which  are  generally 
dug  in  the  small  hollows  which  are  found  in  the 
midst  of  friable  sandy  hillocks.  The  water  in 
these  wells  is  not  always  good,  and  as  moreover 
it  soon  becomes  impure,  it  is  always  found 
necessary  to  clear  the  well  out  before  drawing  a 
fresh-supply.  The  vegetation  on  these  sands,  though 
rather  better  than  that  of  the  saline  Steppes,  is 
generally  poor,  but  shrubwood  is  plentiful. 

The  nature  of  the  soil  and  the  scarcity  of  fuel 
and  pasturage,  render  the  passage  over  the  Kara- 
kum  sands  extremely  difficult,  and  only  solitary 
Kirghiz  horsemen  can  travel  from  well  to  well  in  all 


•310  'Dvirclx  in   Central  .Is/a. 

directions.  All  the  nomad  Kirghizes,  as  well  as 
Bokharian  caravans  and  Russian  transports,  pro- 
ceeding to  Orenburg  and  the  Orsk  fortress  and  back, 
cross  the  Kara-kum  by  the  only  route  which  has 
for  ages  been  frequented  by  Asiatics,  and  extends 
from  the  former  Aralsk  fortification,  or  the  point  of 
passage  over  the  Syr,  to  the  N.E.  extremity  of  Sary- 
Chaganak  Bay,  and  thence  along  the  Western  edge 
of  the  sands  to  the  Uralsk  fort  or  to  Mana-Aulie 
settlement.  This  route  is  undeniably  the  best  in 
every  respect  for  connecting  the  lower  part  of  the 
Syr  with  the  Russian  line ;  it  runs  for  the  most 
part  through  saline  valleys,  and  crosses  the  sandy 
ones  in  a  few  places,  while  wells  exist  at  every  stage 
in  sufficient  numbers  for  the  supply  of  considerable 
caravans. 

To  the  East  of  the  Kara-kum  sand  stretches 
a  broad  belt  of  waterless  saline  Steppe,  called  the 
Barren  Steppe,  extending  as  far  as  Lake  Balkhash. 
It  is  crossed,  though  with  great  difficulty,  by  Boka- 
rian  and  Tashkend  caravans  proceeding  to  Troits- 
kand  and  Petropavlovsk,  and  since  1853  Russian 
convoys  pass  through  it  in  the  autumn,  on  their 
way  to  Fort  Perovski. 

With  regard  to  the  sands,  it  must  be  observed, 
that  although  their  vegetation  is  scanty,  they  yet 


Scarcity  of  Sweet  Water.  311 

present  greater  conveniences  as  camping-grounds 
than  the  saline  Steppes.  Sweet  water  may  nearly 
always  be  procured  by  digging  wells,  whereas  the 
Steppe  is  almost  entirely  dry,  and  the  wells  which 
do  exist  in  them  are  either  very  deep,  or  their 
water  is  of  bad  quality.  Pasturage  for  horses 
can  also  be  obtained  along  the  sands,  whereas  the 
saline  Steppes  only  contain  food  for  camels.  The 
hillocks  and  mounds  occurring  in  the  former 
afford  protection  to  horses  and  cattle  during 
the  winter  hurricanes.  On  these  accounts  the 
sands  are  preferred  by  the  Kirghizes  as  camping- 
ground. 

Ever  since  the  commencement  of  last  century 
the  Russians  have  laid  themselves  out  to  obtain 
more  reliable  information  respecting  the  lower 
course  of  the  Syr,  or  in  other  words,  since  the 
establishment  of  the  Orenburg  line,  and  the  re- 
ception of  the  Kirghiz-Kaisaks  and  Karakalpaks 
under  Russian  protection  in  1730.  The  course  of 
the  Syr  was  at  that  time  occupied  by  Karakalpaks. 
They  had  their  own  Khans,  who  did  not  exercise 
much  power,  but  were  chiefly  swayed  by  the 
Hodjas.  The  chief  occupation  of  the  Karakalpaks 
then,  as  now,  was  agriculture.  They  had  but  few 
horses,  but  like  the  patriarchs  of  old,  were  rich  in 


312  Tnioels  In  Central  J.sia. 

cattle,  which  they  occasionally  sold  in  the  neigh- 
bouring country,  but  principally  to  the  Khivans. 
for  their  own  protection  against  the  Kirghizes, 
they  manufactured  powder,  lead,  and  guns,  which 
they  also  sold  to  the  former.  When  invaded,  they 
sought  shelter  in  towns  surrounded  by  walls  of 
earth.  In  the  winter,  they  camped  in  the  reeds, 
chiefly  around  the  sea  of  Aral,  which  were  likewise 
resorted  to  at  that  season  by  Kirghizes  of  the  Little 
Horde.  Being  an  agricultural  and  peaceable  peo- 
ple, the  Karakalpaks  suiFered  great  oppression  from 
their  neighbours  the  Kirghizes,  and  eagerly  sought 
the  protection  of  other  races  against  them.  The 
Upper  Karakalpaks  in  the  beginning  of  last  century 
owned  allegiance  to  the  Dzungars,  and  the  Lower  de- 
termined to  follow  the  example  of  the  Little  Kaisak 
Horde,  who  through  their  Khan,  Abul-Hair,  had,  in 
1732,  intimated  their  desire  to  place  themselves 
imder  the  protection  of  Russia.  In  1732  the 
Interpreter  of  the  College  of  Foreign  Affairs,  Murza 
Tevkelef,  who  had  been  despatched  to  receive  the 
oath  of  allegiance  of  the  Kirghizes,  arrived  at  the 
camp  of  Abul-Hair,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Syr.  The 
Karakalpaks  seizing  this  opportunity,  swore  fealty 
to  Russia,  along  with  their  Khan  Kaip.  In  conse- 
quence of  this,  in  the  instructions  given  to  Karilof, 


Commencement  of  Hasisian  lujluence.       313 

despatched  on  the  18th  May,  1734,  to  organize 
the  Orenburg  region,  he  is  directed  among  other 
things  to  forward  a  letter  entrusted  to  him,  to  the 
Khan  of  the  Karakalpaks,  and  to  endeavour  to  es- 
tablish a  harbour  and  armed  vessels  in  the  Sea  of 
Aral.  Neither  of  these  two  things,  however,  could 
be  accomplished  at  that  period,  owing  to  the  un- 
settled state  of  the  new  region.  The  "  gramota,"  or 
Imperial  letter,  was  soon  after  returned  to  the  Rus- 
sian Bureau  of  Foreign  Affairs,  and  it  was  not  till 
1847  that  forts  and  vessels  of  war  were  established 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Syr. 

As  soon  as  the  relations  of  the  Karakalpaks  with 
Russia  were  broken  off,  the  former  suffered  long 
and  severely  from  the  pillaging  inroads  of  Abul- 
Hair  and  his  sons,  who  at  last  drove  them  away 
from  the  Lower  Syr,  at  the  same  time  compelhng 
some  of  them  to  settle  in  Khivan  and  others  in 
Bokharian  territory. 

With  the  retirement  of  the  Karakalpaks,  the 
lower  course  of  the  Syr  remained  entirely  in  the 
hands  of  the  Kirghizes.  Many  of  them  took  to 
agriculture,  and  settled  down  to  cultivate  the 
country,  while  others  of  the  Horde  emigrated  to 
these  parts  every  winter  with  their  flocks,  migrating 
to  other   camping-grounds  in  spring.     It  is  said 


314  Travels  hi  Central  Asia. 

that  formerly  both  the  stationary  and  nomad  popu- 
lations were  more  niimerous  in  these  regions  than 
at  the  present  day,  and  that  it  is  in  consequence 
of  the  rapacity  and  cruelty  of  the  Kokanians  and 
Khivans,  who  acquired  an  unjust  influence  over 
the  lower  course  of  the  Syr  about  the  commence- 
ment of  the  present  century,  that  the  whole  country 
has  become  depopulated  to  a  considerable  extent. 
This  account  receives  additional  confirmation  by 
the  many  abandoned  fields,  ruined  aqueducts,  and 
neglected  dams  and  reservoirs  that  everywhere 
meet  the  eye. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  the 
Kokanians  had  no  fixed  station  on  the  Lower  Syr, 
and  did  not  exercise  any  influence  over  the  Kir- 
ghizes, who  wandered  along  its  banks,  but  after 
the  capture  of  the  town  of  Turkestan  in  1814,allLired 
by  the  possibility  of  extending  the  limits  of  their 
territory  still  farther  to  the  North- West,  they 
began  to  interfere  in  the  afi'airs  of  the  Kirghizes, 
and  to  demand  tribute  from  them.  The  Kirghizes 
resisted  the  demands  of  the  Kokanians,  and  in- 
cessant inroads  were  made  on  each  other  by  the 
rival  peoples,  resulting  in  great  loss  of  life  on  both 
sides.  Worn  out  at  last  with  this  incessant  struggle, 
but  without  abandoning  the  idea  of  establishing 


Intrigues  of  the  Kokanians.  315 

their  power  over  the  Kirghizes,  the  Kokanians  re- 
solved to  occupy  several  points  on  the  Syr  below 
Turkestan,  and  erected  successive  fortifications 
at  Djany-Kurgan,  Djiilek-Ak-Mechet,  Kumysh- 
Kurgan,  Chim-Kurgan,  Kosh-Kurgan  and  others. 
The  most  important  of  these,  Ak-Mechet,  was  built, 
according  to  Kirghiz  accounts,  about  the  year 
1817,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Syr,  and  removed  a 
year  after  to  the  right  bank.  The  part  of  the  Lower 
Syr  thus  taken  possession  of  by  the  Kokanians 
formed  an  outlying  or  "frontier  province  of  Kokan, 
and  was  governed  until  1855  by  the  Beg  of  Ak- 
Mechet,  who  was  subject  to  the  ruler  of  Tashkend, 
but  who,  taking  advantage  of  the  differences  between 
Tashkend  and  Kokan,  often  acted  irresponsibly. 

By  erecting  these  fortifications  the  Kokanians 
attained  their  object.  The  Kirghizes,  accustomed 
to  repair  to  the  convenient  parts  of  the  Syr  for 
passing  the  winter,  were  forced  to  submit  to 
Kokanian  rule,  and  began  to  pay  the  Ziaket  or 
tribute  demanded  of  them ;  the  Kokanians,  how- 
ever, not  satisfied  with  this,  still  plimdered  and 
harassed  them  at  every  turn.  Many  Kirghizes 
in  consequence  began  to  go  over  to  the  Khivans, 
but  such  migrations  cost  them  dear.  Placed  be- 
tween two  fires,  the  Kirghizes  suffered  from  the 


316  Travels  in  Ce/itrnl  jjsia. 

vengeance  of  both  peoples,  forcing  many  of  them 
to  seek  protection  under  the  Kokan  and  Khivan 
forts,  and  others  to  scatter  in  all  directions  over 
the  Steppe. 

Influenced  exclusively  by  rapacity,  the  Kokanians 
signalized  their  rule  by  ruinous  levies,  depredatory 
inroads,  robbery  from  the  person,  and  violence  of 
every  description. 

"  The  Kirghiz  Tribute,"  says  Mr.  Osmolovski, 
"  was  collected  by  the  Kokanians  under  tvro  heads  : 
from  cattle — Ziaket — and  from  corn — Ikhradj. 
In  violation  of  all  ^Mahometan  laws  fixing  the 
levy  from  cattle  at  one-fortieth,  the  Kokanians 
took  annually  six  sheep  out  of  every  kibitka  or 
tent,  and  double  that  number  from  rich  Kirghizes  ; 
and  this  quite  irrespective  of  the  presents  made  to 
the  Ziaketchik  (taxgather)  and  his  assistants." 

Of  corn,  the  Kokanians  exacted  a  third  of  the  crop. 
Under  the  "  Ikhradj"  head,  they  likewise  collected 
a  tax  in  wood,  charcoal  and  hay.  Each  kibitka 
was  obliged  to  furnish  twenty-four  bags  annually 
of  charcoal,  four  oxen  loads  of  saksaiil  for  fuel, 
hay,  and  1000  sheaves  of  reeds.  The  Kirghizes, 
whose  encampment  lay  at  a  distance  from  the 
fortifications,  paid  the  value  of  these  imposts  in 
cattle  and  corn. 


Oppressive  Rule  of  the  Kokanians.        317 

In  addition  to  the  Ziaket  and  Ikhradj,  the 
Kirghizes  were  required  to  render  service  in 
labour, — much  like  the  old  French  corvee : — 

1.  In  cultivating  the  Kokanian  gardens  and 
fields,  to  repair  the  walls  of  the  forts,  &c.  For  this 
purpose  each  kibitka  sent  a  man  once  a  month, 
and  provided  him  with  food.  The  distant 
Kirghizes  paid  in  cattle  for  the  hire  of  substitute 
labourers. 

2.  For  cleansing  the  stables,  stalls,  &c.,in  the  forts, 
which  was  done  about  six  times  during  the  year ; 
for  this  work  the  Kirghizes,  whose  camps  lay  near, 
were  driven  into  the  forts  at  random. 

3.  In  case  of  a  war  or  inroad,  each  able-bodied 
Kirghiz,  at  the  order  of  the  Kokanians,  was  obliged 
to  serve  as  long  as  required,  providing  his  own 
horse  and  provisions. 

The  weight  of  these  imposts  and  compulsory 
service  was  the  more  burthensome  to  the  poor 
eginiclies,  or  agriculturists,  in  consequence  of  the 
brutality  of  the  Kokanians,  who,  leading  an  idle 
and  dissolute  life,  often  visited  the  Kirghiz  aids,  to 
violate  the  women,  marrying  them  also  in  opposition 
to  the  Shariat,  and  without  giving  the  customary 
kalym,  or  payment  for  a  wife. 

By   these   barbarous   means,   the   neighbouring 


318  IVavels  in  Central  jhi a. 

country  was  held  in  fear  and  subjection  by  the  fort 
of  Ak-Mechet  up  to  the  year  1853  ;  notwithstand- 
ing that  its  material  strength  was  really  incon- 
siderable. 

In  1852  the  force  of  Ak-Mechet  consisted  of 
only  fifty  sepahis,  or  Kokan  soldiers,  armed  with 
matchlocks,  sabres,  and  spears,  and  about  100 
Bokharian  and  Kokanian  traders  were  settled  in 
it ;  Kiunysh-Kurgan  was  garrisoned  by  twenty- 
five  men,  principally  Kirghizes,  and  Kosh- Kurgan 
by  four.  In  DjtUek,  in  1853,  there  were  forty 
men,  and  two  or  three  Kokanian  soldiers  in  Djany- 
Kurgan,  a  small  quadrangular  entrenchment  of  a 
spear's  height.  These  numbers,  of  course,  varied 
according  to  circumstances,  but  they  could  only  be 
increased  by  impressing  Kii'ghizes. 

Next  in  order  after  the  Kokanians,  the  Khivans 
made  their  appearance  on  the  lower  course  of  the 
Syr-Daria.  Khiva  commenced  to  exercise  influ- 
ence over  the  Kirghizes  but  very  recently,  in  fact 
since  the  reign  of  Mahomed-Rahim,  who  died  in 
1825.  The  endeavours  of  the  Kokanians  to 
establish  their  power  over  the  Kirghizes  of  the  Syr- 
Daria,  excited  the  curiosity  of  the  Khivans,  who 
demanded  the  demolition  of  the  forts  on  the  Syr,  to 
which  the  former  would  not  consent.     In  conse- 


Forfificationf!  alone/  the  Sf)\ 


319 


qnence  of  this,  several  Khivan  forts  were  erected  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  river  Knvan  about  the  year 
1830,  in  the  reiQ;n  of  Aha-Kiil  (the  son  and  suc- 


"^'A//  /,  ,>,~-^.1 4 


TttREE  iNirAniTiNTS  OF   Kttiya 


cessor  of  Mahomed-Rahim),  for  the  collection  of 
Ziaket  from  the  neighbouring  Kirghiz  encampment, 
and    of    dues    fronr    the    caravans    passing  from 


320  IVaveh  in  Central  ^/■■^ia. 

Bokhara  to  the  Orenburg  line,  and  returning 
thence. 

Like  the  Kokanian,  the  Khivan  rule  over  the 
Kirghizes  of  the  Syr-Daria  ^yas  marked  by  acts  of 
rapine  and  oppression,  which  were  often  repeated 
between  the  years  1840-50,  out  of  revenge  against 
Djan-Hodja,  who  destroyed  Bish-Kaly. 

The  commencement  of  the  advance  of  Russia  in 
the  Steppe,  must  be  dated  from  iS33,  in  which 
year  the  Novo-Alexandrovski,  called  subsequently 
Mangyshlak  Tort,  43°  40'  N.  53°  30'  E.  was  erected 
on  the  Eastern  shore  of  the  Caspian,  for  the  protec- 
tion of  the  Emba  fisheries  against  Turkmen  pirates. 
Although  two  forts,  one  on  the  Emba,  the  other  on 
the  Ak-Bulak,  were  constructed  in  the  Steppe  in 
1839,  before  the  expedition  to  Khiva,  they  were 
only  temporarily  occupied,  and  were,  in  fact,  aban- 
doned on  the  termination  of  the  campaign.  The 
occupation  of  the  Steppe,  on  a  permanent  footing 
by  the  construction  of  regular  forts,  was  not  com- 
menced till  1847,  when  the  Steppe  was  agitated 
by  the  insurrection  of  Sultan  Kanisara-Kassimof. 
It  was  during  this  year,  that  the  Orenburg  Fort 
on  the  Turgai,  the  Ural  Fort  on  the  Trgiz,  and  in 
]  848  the  Karabutak  Fort,  on  the  Karabut,  were 
built  for  protecting  the  communication  between  the 
Steppe  forts  and  the  line. 


First  Russimi  Fort  projected.  321 

This  advance  of  Russia  in  the  Steppe,  had  the 
effect  of  pacifying  the  districts  adjoining  the  line, 
but  exercised  no  influence  over  the  Kirghizes,  who 
roamed  beyond  the  Emba,  on  the  Ust-Urt  and  Syr- 
Daria. 

In  order  to  make  the  influence  of  Russia  felt  by 
the  Khanats  of  Central  Asia,  and  for  the  protection 
of  the  Kirghizes  subject  to  Russia,  who  roamed  on 
the  Syr-Daria,  as  also  for  the  safety  of  Russian 
caravans,  it  was  necessary  that  she  should  predo- 
minate without  a  rival  on  the  Sea  of  Aral,  and  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Syr,  where  the  Kokanians  and 
Khivans  had  arbitrarily  erected  a  line  of  forts,  with 
the  object  of  intimidating  the  Kirghizes,  and  im- 
poverishing them  by  heavy  exactions.  The  idea  of 
establishing  a  stronghold  with  a  Russian  settlement 
on  the  Syr-Daria,  originated  as  early  as  1840,  but 
was  not  realised  until  1847. 

In  1846,  General  Obruchev,  then  Governor-Gene 
ral  of  Orenburg,  obtained  the  sanction  of  his  Go- 
vernment, to  occupy  a  point  on  the  shore  of  the 
Sea  of  Aral.  With  this  view.  Captain  Schultz  was 
despatched  to  select  a  convenient  spot  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Syr-Daria,  for  the  erection  of  a  fort ; 
to  gather  information  respecting  the  navigation  and 
fisheries  of  the  river ;  to  sound  the  channel  from 

Y 


322  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

the  point  at  which  it  was  intended  to  construct  a 
fort  to  the  mouth  of  the  river;  and  generally  to 
prociu-e  information  on  the  capabilities  of  the  coun- 
try for  colonisation. 

At  the  point  selected,  was  founded  in  1847,  the 
Raimsk  fortification,  which  name  was  subsequently 
changed  to  that  of  Aralsk. 

The  Khivans  could  not  regard  with  indifference 
the  encroachment  of  Russian  rule  on  the  Syr-Daria, 
and  from  the  year  1847,  hostile  relations  sprang  up 
between  the  two  nations.  In  August,  a  force  of 
2000  Khivans  having  crossed  the  Syr-Daria,  fell  on 
the  Russian  Kirghizes,  and  despoiled  more  than  a 
thousand  families.  The  troops  despatched  against 
the  Khivans,  put  the  marauders  to  flight,  and  the 
fear  they  inspired  spread  as  far  as  Khiva,  where 
the  arrival  of  the  detachment  was  expected;  the 
Russians,  however,  withdrew  after  liberating  the 
prisoners. 

In  the  month  of  November,  the  Khivans  appeared 
in  the  Kara-Kum  desert,  and  again  commenced 
pillaging  the  Kirghizes.  On  this  occasion,  they 
murdered  many  old  men,  seized  the  women,  scat- 
tered the  children  in  the  Steppe,  and  robbed  two 
trading  caravans.  Immediately  on  learning  that 
the  Russian  troops  were  in  motion,  the  marauders 


Hostilities  with  tJic  IIushuiuk.  323 

once  more  retired  beyond  the  Syr-Daria.  In  1S48, 
a  body  of  1 500  Khivans  had  the  temerity  to  appear 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Syr,  when  they  commenced 
their  work  of  pillage,  while  three  hmidred  Turk- 
men horsemen  rode  boldly  past  within  gun-shot  of 
the  Russian  fort,  and  visited  the  Syr-Daria  landing 
wharf.  For  nearly  twenty-foiu-  hours  they  robbed 
and  slaughtered  the  Kirghizes,  after  which  they  re- 
crossed  the  Syr.  In  the  course  of  1848,  the 
Khivans  made  repeated  inroads,  but  being  each 
time  compelled  to  fly  on  meeting  the  Russian  de- 
tachments, they  became  conscious  of  their  own 
weakness,  and  limited  themselves  to  demanding  the 
destruction  of  the  Russian  forts  of  Aralsk  and  Novo- 
petrbvsk. 

From  the  year  1850  a  hostile  attitude  was 
also  assumed  by  the  Kokanians,  who,  as  alreadv 
mentioned,  having  built  forts  on  the  louver  course  of 
the  Syr-Daria,  oppressed  and  robbed  the  Kirghizes 
subject  to  Russia.  Most  of  the  depredatory  in- 
cursions were  undertaken  by  the  Beg  of  Ak- 
Mechet,  who  ruled  over  all  the  Kokanian  forts  on 
the  Lower  Syr.  These  inroads  were  always  accom- 
panied with  wholesale  robbery;  thus  in  1850  they 
drove  away  twenty-six  thousand  head  of  Kirghiz 
cattle,  and  thirty  thousand  on  another  occasion.'-  In 

T   2 


■324  Travch  in  Central  Asia. 

the  following  year,  1851,  the  Kokaniaiis  having 
driven  off  seventy-five  thousand  head  of  cattle,  the 
commander  of  Fort  Aralsk,  Major  Engmann,  pur- 
sued them  and  took  their  fort,  Kosh-Kurgan,  by 
storm ;  but  even  this  severe  lesson  failed  to  put  a 
stop  to  their  depredations.  Before  proceeding 
further,  however,  with  the  narrative,  it  is  necessary 
to  glance  at  the  Russian  proceedhigs  on  the  Sea  of 
Aral. 

The  navigation  of  the  Sea  of  Aral  by  Russian 
vessels  commences  with  the  erection  of  the  Raimsk 
fortification.  Two  two-masted  vessels,  one  a  vessel 
of  war,  the  "  Nikolai,"  the  other  a  merchant  ship, 
the  "  Mikhail,"  were  constructed  at  Orenburg  early 
in  1847.  The  first  was  intended  for  surveying 
purposes,  the  second  for  establishing  fisheries,  with 
\vhich  object  a  public  company,  as  already  men- 
tioned, had  been  formed  durmg  the  same  year. 
Both  vessels  having  been  constructed  in  Russia, 
were  taken  to  pieces,  and  transported  in  the  spring 
overland  to  Raimsk,  where  they  were  put  together 
again  and  launched.  The  schooner  "  Nikolai" 
immediately  put  to  sea,  but  owing  to  the  lateness 
of  the  season  she  only  cruised  off  the  embouchure 
of  the  Syr.  In  the  following  spring  the  schooner 
again  stood  out  to   sen,   and   surveyed  the  whole 


First  Flotilla  on  the  Sea  of  Aral.         325 

Northern  coast  line.  In  the  meantime  another 
war  vessel,  the  "  Constantine,"  larger  than  the  first, 
was  built  at  Orenburg.  With  this  vessel.  Lieute- 
nant Butakov  commenced,  in  the  autumn  of  1848,  a 
thoiough  survey  of  the  Sea  of  Aral,  which  occupied 
full  two  years  ere  it  was  satisfactorily  completed. 

In  1850,  General  Obruchev  proposed  to  construct 
a  steamer  of  forty-horse  power,  for  the  purpose  of 
plying  on  the  Syr-Daria.  The  navigation  of  the 
Syr-Daria  promised  to  afford  material  assistance  in 
supplying  the  Raimsk  fort  with  the  necessary  stores 
and  provisions,  from  the  Kokanian  territory,  and 
was  intended  to  supersede  the  costly,  tedious,  and 
uncertain  modes  then  in  use  for  conveying  goods 
to  the  fort  across  the  sandy  and  waterless  Steppe. 

The  project  received  the  approbation  of  the 
Government,  and  the  Ministry  of  Marine  were 
directed  to  prepare  plans  of  the  steamer.  The 
preliminary  expenses  under  this  head  were  defrayed 
out  of  the  sum  assigned  in  1838  for  the  organisa- 
tion of  a  scientific  expedition.  In  the  previous 
year,  1837,  the  Asiatic  committee  decided  to 
despatch  a  scientific  mission  to  the  North-Eastern 
shores  of  the  Sea  of  Aral,  and  up  the  Syr-Daria. 
The  events  that  occurred  in  Central  Asia  in  1838 
made   it-  imperatively   necessary  to  abandon  this 


32 G        ■  Tracds  in  Central  Asia. 

project  for  the  time.  A  military  force  marched  in 
the  meantime  to  Khiva ;  and  subsequently,  with  the 
construction  of  the  Orenburg,  Uralsk,  and  Aralsk 
forts,  topographical  surveys  were  made  of  the  shores 
of  the  Sea  of  Aral,  and  a  complete  examination  of 
these  waters,  as  well  as  of  the  lower  course  and 
mouths  of  the  Syr-Daria,  set  on  foot,  so  that  the 
scientific  objects  of  the  contemplated  expedition  of 
In 37  were  ultimately  fully  attained. 

Captain  Butakov,  of  the  Imperial  Navy,  was 
commisioned  to  order  the  steamer  destined  for  the 
Sea  of  Aral,  and  a  screw  steam  barge  of  twelve 
horse-power,  to  act  as  a  tender  to  the  steamer,  was 
contracted  for  at  the  Motala  Iron  Works  in  Sweden 
for  the  sum  of  37,444  roubles  (£5,620). 

No  coal  having  been  discovered  along  the  Aral 
coasts,  General  Obruchev  was  requested  by  the 
Minister  of  War  to  take  into  consideration  : — 

1 .  Would  it  not  be  useful  to  examine  the  coal 
layers  on  the  Mangyshlak  peninsula,  or  between  the 
Caspian  and  the  Sea  of  Aral  ? 

2.  Should  the  coal  prove  of  the  requisite  quality 
for  fuelling  steamers,  would  the  transport  of  it 
across  the  Ust-Urt,  by  Kii'ghizes  and  Turkmens 
be  attained  with  great  obstacles  ? 

3.  As  a  central  depot  on  the  Western  shore  of 


Orffanisation  of  a  Steam  Flotilla.         327 

the  sea,  and  armed  convoys  for  the  protection  of 
the  coal  caravans,  would  in  all  probability  be 
required  in  carrying  out  the  plan,  in  what 
manner  could  these  difficulties  be  subsequently 
lessened  ? 

4.  In  case  no  coal  be  found  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  Aral  Sea,  will  it  not  be  necessary  to 
consider  the  possibility  and  cost  of  transport- 
ing Don  anthracite  to  the  mouth  of  the  Syr- 
Daria  ? 

Perovski,  who  was  appointed  military  Governor- 
General  of  Orenburg  in  1851,  though  fully 
recognizing  the  advantages  to  be  gained  by  the 
introduction  of  steam  on  the  Aral,  was  of  opinion 
that  the  transport  of  Don  anthracite  would  be  too 
costly,  and  that  the  only  available  fuel  in  those 
arenaceous  wastes  was  the  saxatd  {Anabasis  saxaill). 
The  superiority  of  this  plant  as  a  substitute  for  coal, 
over  every  other  description  of  wood,  was  practi- 
cally proved,  and  its  abundance  on  the  shores  and 
islands  of  the  Aral  was  investigated  and  ascertained 
by  Captain  Butakov. 

In  June,  1851,  Perovski  instructed  the  comman- 
der of  Fort  Aralsk  to  make  the  necessary  arrange- 
ments for  forwarding,  during  the  navigation  season 
of  that  year,  as  large  a  supply  as  possible  of  the 
saksaul  to  the  Aralsk  Fort. 


22.8  Tracch  in  Central  Asia. 

The  experiment,  however,  did  not  succeed.  In 
October  of  the  same  year,  Perovski  reported  that 
the  navigation  of  the  steamers  on  the  Sea  of  Aral 
and  Syr-Daria  could  not  be  rendered  sufficiently 
seciu'e  and  reliable,  owing  to  the  use  of  the 
saksatd  for  fuel.  Irrespective  of  its  limited  supply, 
and  difficulty  of  collection,  its  conversion  into 
faggots  of  wood  presented  two  serious  drawbacks. 
Firstly,  the  hard  and  resinous  properties  of  this 
tree  make  it  almost  proof  against  the  hatchet  or 
saw ;  and  secondly,  its  crooked  and  knotty  logs  are 
inconvenient  for  stowage,  so  that  the  progress  of 
the  steamer  would  always  be  retarded  by  having  to 
tow  a  vessel  loaded  with  this  fuel,  occupying  space 
disproportionate  to  its  bidk,  and  insufficient  for 
any  long  passage. 

Anthracite  as  fuel,  therefore,  notwithstanding 
the  great  cost  involved  in  its  conveyance,  presented 
the  sole  reliable  means  of  establishing  steam  navi- 
gation on  the  Aral  and  the  rivers  that  fall  into 
it,  on  a  secure  footing.  Reeds  and  saxaid  wood 
might  be  used  as  auxiliary  fuel.  It  was  con- 
sequently decided  to  transport  Don  anthracite  to 
the  Orenburg  line,  for  the  consumption  for  the 
year  1852,  and  the  cost  of  a  pood  of  this  material 
would  be  one  rouble,  twenty  copecks,  or  about  £12 
per  ton. 


Armament  of  the  Flotilla.  329 

In  May,  1852,  the  steamers  ordered  in  Sweden 
were  forwarded  in  pieces  to  St.  Petersburg, 
whence  they  reached  Samara  by  water  in  July,  and 
were  despatched  with  4000  poods  (65  tons)  of  an- 
thracite to  Orenburg,  where  the  convoy  arrived  in 
August.  In  the  beginning  of  November  all  the 
land  transports  arrived  in  safety  at  Fort  Aialsk, 
and  the  work  of  putting  them  together  was  im- 
mediately commenced.  On  the  10th  March,  1853, 
the  steamer  "  Perovski "  was  launched  on  the  Syr- 
Daria,  and  the  steam  barge,  "  Obruchev,"  on  the 
16th  April  following.  The  total  cost  of  the 
steamers,  including  their  conveyance  to  Fort  Aralsk, 
and  the  salaries  of  those  employed  in  their  erection, 
was  49,347  roubles  sUver  (£7,402.) 

By  the  31st  May  the  steamers  were  completed, 
and  ready  to  commence  operations.  The  arma- 
ment of  the  "Perovski"  consisted  of  a  nine-inch 
howitzer  and  carriage,  on  a  revolving  platform,  at 
the  bow,  and  two  howitzers  resembling  carronades, 
at  the  stern.  The  steam  barge  "  Obruchev  "  had 
provision  made  for  mounting  a  howitzer  in  case  of 
need,  at  each  end,  fore  and  aft. 

During  the  same  year  the  steamer  "  Perovski " 
took  part  in  the  Ak-Mechet  expedition,  400  miles 
from  its  mouth. 


CHAPTER    IX. 


PART   II. 


Survey  of  the  8yr-Baria  above  the  Aral  Fortifica- 
tion.— Inimical  hearing  of  the  Kokanians. — 
Expedition  of  Colonel  JBlaramherg. — Demolition 
of  the  Kokanian  Fortifications. — Expedition  to 
Ak-Mechet. — Taking  of  Ak-Mechet.—It  is  re- 
named Fort  Perovski. — Proceedings  of  the  Koka- 
nians. 

1852-1854. 

It  has  already  been  mentioned  that  General  Pe- 
rovski resolved  in  is 52  to  take  decisive  measnres  for 
curbing  the  insolence  of  the  Kokanians — a  pre- 
text for  which  they  themselves  were  not  long  in 
furnishing. 

In  the  month  of  April,  1852,  a  survey  corps, 


Armed  Survey  of  the  Syr  in  1852.         331 

consisting  of  eighty  men,  under  the  direction  of 
the  topographer,  Ensign  Golov,  was  stopped  before 
reaching  the  fort  of  Ak-Mechet,  the  conunandant 
of  which  flatly  opposed  its  further  progress.  The 
proposed  junction  of  the  Orenburg  and  Siberian 
lines  having  then  been  decided  on,  and  its  feasibility 
from  the  Orenburg  side  by  a  movement  up  the 
Syr  being  evident,  it  was  found  indispensable  to 
continue  the  survey,  should  it  even  require  armed 
force  for  its  execution. 

Accordingly,  in  the  summer  of  that  year,  a  divi- 
sion was  organized,  consisting  of  one  staff  officer, 
eleven  superior  officers,  thirty-one  non-commis- 
sioned officers,  and  an  "  ouriadnik,"  a  band  of 
three  musicians,  387  soldiers  of  the  line,  and 
thirty-six  irregular  troops,  accompanied  by  two 
9-pounders.  The  command  of  this  division  was 
intrusted  to  Colonel  Blaramberg,  who  received  the 
following  instructions : — 

1 .  To  accomplish  the  survey  through  the  valley 
of  the  Syr-Daria,  from  the  Aral  fortification  to 
the  Kokanian  fortress,  Ak-Mechet,  upon  the  right 
bank  of  the  Syr. 

2.  In  the  event  of  an  encounter  with  the  Ko- 
kanians,  or  in  case  they  should  make  any  uncalled- 
for  demands,  to  attack  them  immediately. 


332  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

3.  Without  touching  at  any  fortifications  lying 
nearer  to  Aralsk,  to  proceed  direct  towards  Ak- 
Mechet,  and  there  to  act  as  circumstances  might 
require.  If  Ak-Mechet  lies  within  the  Russian 
limits,  to  endeavour  to  rase  it ;  but  under  all  cir- 
cumstances to  notify  to  the  Kokanians  that  the 
fort  must  not  remain  on  its  actual  site. 

Taking  with  him  sufficient  provisions  to  last 
a  month  and  a  half,  Colonel  Blaramberg,  on  the 
3rd  of  July,  issued  from  the  Aralsk  fortification, 
and  was  on  the  18th  already  within  one  stage  of 
Ak-Mechet  (thus  marching  twelve  miles  a  day) . 

Meanwhile,  the  Kokanians,  probably  fore- 
warned of  the  advance  of  the  Russian  division 
had  destroyed  the  dam  which  diverted  the  current 
of  the  water  of  the  Syr-Daria  into  Lake  Ber-kazan, 
and  deluged  the  low  level  ground  in  the  vicinity 
of  Ak-Mechet.  Regardless  of  this  obstacle,  the 
division  crossed  in  safety,  though  with  consider- 
able difficulty,  five  arms  of  the  river.  The  guns, 
ammunition,  and  other  stores,  were  taken  over 
on  cane  rafts ;  while  the  horses,  camels,  and  the 
greater  portion  of  the  men,  swam  over  without 
any  resistance  on  the  part  of  the  enemy. 

As  soon  as  this  was  accomplished,  two  envoys 
from  Ak-Mechet  appeared  before  the  commander 


Advance  of  the  Expedition.  333 

of  the  division,  of  whom  one  was  a  collector  of 
tribute  from  the  Kirghizes,  and  the  other  a 
Bokhara  merchant,  both  of  whom  requested  to 
know  the  reason  why  the  division  had  violated 
the  Kokanian  territory. 

Colonel  Blaramberg,  considering  that  the  Ko- 
kanian tax-gatherers  had  no  right  to  visit  the 
country  on  that  side  of  the  Syr-Daria,  and  dis- 
approving alike  of  the  constitution  and  tone  of 
this  embassage,  detained  the  tribute-collector  with 
his  followers,  and  despatched  the  Bokharian  back 
again,  directing  him  to  inform  the  commandant  of 
Ak-Mechet  that  the  Russian  division  was  march- 
ing along  the  Russian  bank  of  the  river,  on  which 
no  Kokanian  troops  or  fortifications  could  be 
permitted  to  remain. 

The  passage  of  the  troops  over  the  five  channels 
into  which  the  Syr  branches  at  this  point,  had  been 
exceedingly  tedious  and  exhausting,  owing  to  the 
inundation  and  the  dense  and  prickly  brushwood 
through  which  the  men  had  to  make  their  way 
along  narrow  deep  footpaths,  as  well  as  across  the 
ploughed  and  muddy  soil  of  the  fields.  Reaching 
the  fortress  at  length  on  the  19th,  Colonel  Blaram- 
berg  encamped  under  the  walls  forming  its  Eastern 
front.  The  Cossacks  not  having  brought  any  canoes 


334  Travels  in  Central  jlsia. 

along  with  tlie  division,  soon  scattered  themselves 
along  the  Syr,  and  seized  tvro  Kokanian  boats,  near 
the  right  bank, — in  which  the  engineers  at  once 
proceeded  to  reconnoitre  the  fort. 

The  Kokanians  abstained  from  showing  them- 
selves above  the  walls ;  but  ere  long,  the  Bokha- 
rian,  Kasan-Beg,  again  made  his  appearance  in  the 
camp,  with  a  letter  from  the  commandant  of  Ak- 
Mechet.  Colonel  Blaramberg  would  not  take  the 
letter,  but  ascertained  from  Kasan-Beg,  that  it  con- 
tained a  request  for  a  delay  of  four  days,  but  some 
Kirghizes  who  were  in  camp  alleged  that  he  sought 
this  respite  in  expectation  of  a  strong  reinforce- 
ment. 

Under  these  circumstances,  an  iuuuediate  sur- 
render of  the  stronghold  was  not  to  be  anticipated ; 
whilst  at  the  same  time  it  was  impossible  to  con- 
tinue under  the  walls  in  the  midst  of  an  inundated 
country,  in  the  by  no  means  improbable  event  of 
the  elevation  of  the  water.  On  the  other  hand,  as 
the  division  was  not  supphed  with  ladders  long 
enough  to  enable  the  men  to  scale  the  walls, — the 
fortress  could  not  be  taken  by  storm. 

Unwilling,  however,  to  abandon  the  scheme  with- 
out inflicting  on  the  Kokanians  the  punishment 
which   they   justly    luerited    for   their    robberies. 


Assault  and  Capture  of  the  Suburbs.       335 

Colonel  Blaramberg  determined,  at  least,  to  bum 
all  that  lay  between  the  outer  wall  and  the  citadel. 
In  the  night  of  the  19th,  some  grenades  from  a 
13-pounder  were  thrown  into  the  fort.  These 
were  at  once  responded  to  on  the  part  of  the  Ko- 
kanians  from  some  3-pounder  swivel  guns  planted 
on  the  bastions  of  the  citadel,  and  by  musketry  from 
under  cover  of  the  walls.  At  dawn  on  the  20th, 
the  enemy's  swivel  guns  had  been  dismounted,  and 
the  wooden  gate  of  the  outer  fortifications  battered 
in.  Colonel  Blaramberg  thereupon  formed  his 
handful  of  men  in  two  columns,  and  led  them  to  the 
breach.  One  of  these  columns,  with  the  aid  of  pick- 
axes and  hatchets,  scrambled  up  the  side  of  the 
moat,  and  climbed  the  wall,  whilst  the  other  burst 
into  the  fortress  through  the  broken  gateway.  The 
outer  works  of  the  fort  were  carried  by  the  Russians 
in  less  than  ten  minutes.  Elated  with  this  suc- 
cess— the  troops  with  cheers  rushed  beneath  the 
very  walls  of  the  citadel.  But  their  height,  which 
was  more  than  four  fathoms,  presented  an  insur- 
moimtable  barrier,  and  no  effect  could  be  produced 
on  them  by  shot,  as  they  presented  a  mass  of  untem- 
pered  clay,  a  fathom  and  a  half  thick,  in  which  the 
balls  simply  imbedded  themselves. 

It  was  now  deemed  sufficient  to  have  gained  the 


336  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

outer  fortifications,  and  a  retreat  was  accordingly 
sounded.  The  killed  and  wounded, — amounting 
in  the  first  case  to  fifteen,  in  the  second  to  fifty- 
seven — were  carried  by  their  comrades  from  under 
the  walls  of  the  fort ;  and  a  few  volunteers  remain- 
ing in  the  fortification,  set  fire  to  all  that  was  with- 
in them.  The  conflagration  lasted  throughout  the 
whole  night;  and  such  of  the  Kokanians  as  de- 
scended the  walls  of  the  citadel  to  rescue  their  pro- 
perty were  instantly  put  to  death. 

On  the  21st,  the  division  commenced  its  retro- 
gade  movement  down  the  course  of  the  river.  The 
troops  were  frequently  forced  to  wade,  waist-deep, 
through  the  water,  so  that  the  passage  over  the 
five  branches  of  the  Bish-Aryn,  occupied  the  whole 
of  the  next  twenty-four  hours,  during  all  which 
the  troops  were  in  the  water,  while  the  heat  never 
fell  below  86°  Fahrenheit  in  the  shade.  During 
the  return  march,  Colonel  Blaramberg  demolished 
three  of  the  enemy's  small  forts :  Kumysh-Kurgan, 
Chin-Kurgan,  and  Kosh-Kurgan. 

This  enterprise,  achieved  by  a  small  division,  at  a 
distance  of  500  versts  (334  miles)  beyond  the  most 
outlying  Russian  stronghold,  and  1500  versts  (1000 
miles)  from  the  line  of  settled  frontier,  is  of  con- 
siderable importance  in  a  military  and  strategic 
point  of  view. 


First  Resvlts  of  the  Expedition.  337 

In  six  weeks  time,  the  division  had  traversed 
more  than  six  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
(1000  versts),  successfully  encountering  extreme 
difficulties  of  ground,  and  sustaining  the  most 
relaxing  heat ;  without  boats  or  pontoons  it  had 
succeeded  in  crossing  three  rivers  and  several  tor- 
rents, had  demolished  three  of  the  enemy's  small 
forts,  and  destroyed  the  outer  works  of  Ak-Mechet 
citadel,  their  principal  frontier  stronghold. 

But  besides  this,  the  expedition  decided  a  variety 
of  speculations  as  to  the  measures  indispensable  for 
the  destruction  of  the  Kokanian  fortification  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Syr-Daria.  It  was  elicited 
from  inquiries  on  the  subject,  that  there  was  con- 
siderable meadow  land  above  Ak-Mechet  up  the 
course  of  the  Syr,  and  that  the  banks  were  fringed 
with  a  dense  forest  of  timber,  fit  for  building 
purposes  as  well  as  probably  for  the  construction  of 
vessels. 

The  result  was  that  it  was  recognized  that,  vidth 
a  view  to  the  permanent  establishment  of  the 
Russians  on  the  Syr-Daria,  for  the  protection  of  the 
Russian  Kirghizes  against  robbery  and  the  daily 
increasing  exactions  of  the  Kokanians,  and  finally 
for  the  main  object  of  connecting  the  Orenburg  and 
Siberian  lines,  it  was  necessary  to  occupy  in  force  the 

z 


338  TrarcJft  in  Central  ^l.vri. 

tract  between  that  river  and  the  Kara-Uziak  stream, 
by  which  means  navigation  of  the  Syr-Daria  would 
be  made  secure.  The  occupation  of  this  tract  neces- 
sarily involved  the  destruction  of  the  Kokanian  forts 
along  the  right  bank,  and  the  safe  navigation  of  our 
steamers  demanded  also  that  no  fortifications  should 
be  suffered  anywhere,  not  even  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  left  bank. 

The  Kokanians  had  at  that  time  organized  a 
distinct  district,  on  the  tract  lying  between  the 
Kara-Uziak  and  Syr-Daria, — which  was  defended 
by  small  fortifications — of  which  the  Government 
was  centred  in  Ak-Mechet.  Without  including 
Turkmen  and  Tashkendians,  the  Kirghizes,  who 
had  always  frequented  this  district,  were  estimated 
at  five  thousand  huts ;  and  aboiit  three  thousand 
huts  of  Kirghizes  who  regularly  wintered  there, 
after  leaving  the  Russian  territories.  These  were 
all  subjected  to  the  heaviest  exactions,  not  to  speak 
of  Oriental  robbery  and  spoliation. 

In  the  following  year,  1853,  it  Mas  determined 
to  occupy  Ak-Mechet  at  any  cost, — and  accordingly 
early  in  the  spring  the  troops  left  the  frontier  in 
two  divisions,  oacli  composed  of  infantry,  cavalry, 
and  artillery,  and  companies  of  sappers  and  miners, 
taking  with  them  twelve  pieces  of  cannon.     The 


Composition  of  Second  hlrpcditioii.  ;i;39 

force  numbered  in  all  two  thousand  one  hundred 
and  sixty-eight  men  including  officers,  besides 
two  thousand  four  hundred  and  forty-two 
horses,  two  thousand  and  thirty-eight  camels,  ami 
two  thousand  two  hundred  and  eighty  oxen  for 
transport  of  baggage  and  commissariat. 

For  crossing  rivers  the  detachments  were  pro- 
vided with  three  portable  pontoons  fixed  on  barrels, 
two  flat  praams  in  piece,  and  three  smaller  pontoons 
consisting  of  india-rubber  bags  ;  besides  whicli 
regular  material  a  supply  of  timber  was  taken 
for  forming  bridges  over  the  canals  that  would 
present  themselves  on  the  route. 

Both  columns  having  become  united  at  Fort 
Karabutakh,  they  advanced  en  echelon  as  far  iis 
Fort  Aralsk. 

In  order  to  prevent  the  Khivans  from  attacking 
and  plundering  the  Russian  convoys  of  stores, 
Perovski  intended  to  occupy,  by  way  of  precaution, 
the  Khivan  fort  of  Hodja-Nias ;  but  not  being 
allowed  to  cross  over  to  the  left  bank  of  the  Syr, 
he  confined  himself  to  ordering  the  Sultan  rulers 
roaming  at  the  Western  and  middle  portion  of  the 
line  of  frontier,  to  retire  with  their  followers  into 
the  Steppe,  and  to  sweep  with  their  horsemen  the 
whole  extent    of   country  between   the    proposed 

z  2 


•340  Travels  in  Central  A> 


Hid. 


route  of  the  Russian  convoy,  and  the  country  to 
the  South  as  far  as  the  Ust-Urt. 

To  preserve  at  the  same  time  the  herbage  for 
the  cavalry  and  waggon-horses,  strict  orders  vrere 
given  that  the  Kirghizes  should  not  camp  during 
summer  along  the  road  leading  from  the  frontier 
line  to  Aralsk. 

So  punctually  were  these  injunctions  carried  out, 
that  according  to  Perovski's  statement,  the  expedi- 
tionary columns  marched  as  through  a  wilderness. 
Not  a  single  Kirghiz  tent  was  to  be  seen  even  in 
the  most  secluded  valley,  nor  were  horses  or  sheep 
anywhere  visible.  Herds  of  wild  "  Saigaks"  alone 
enlivened  the  desert  waste,  which,  commencing  even 
at  the  Ilek,  presented  nothing  but  saline  marshes, 
sands  and  oozy  mud,  overgrown  with  wormwood. 
The  weather  was  at  first  mild,  but  the  heats  soon 
set  in,  the  thermometer  rising  by  the  end  of  May 
above  104°  Fahren :  One  hundred  and  nine  men 
belonging  to  the  detachment  that  first  reached 
Aralsk,  showed  symptoms  of  scorbutic  disease. 
From  Fort  Aralsk  to  the  Syr-Daria  lay  the  most 
distressing  portion  of  the  route,  which  crosses  the 
Kara-Kum  sands.  The  heat  here  is  very  oppressive, 
the  herbage  scant,  and  the  water,  procured  from 
small  pits,  is  both  of  bad  quality  and  insufficient  in 


Departure  from  Fort  Aralsh.  341 

quantity.  The  corps,  however,  arrived  safely  at 
Fort  Aralsk  in  the  middle  of  June,  and  instructions 
vpere  issued  that  it  v^as  to  remain  there  until  all 
the  parts  of  the  expedition  vi^ere  finally  organized. 

All  the  preparations  having  been  at  last  com- 
pleted, the  expeditionary  force  marched  out  of 
Aralsk,  consisting  in  all  of  750  file  of  infantry, 
400  Cossacks  and  Bashkir  cavalry,  besides  an 
escort  of  150  Cossacks,  and  200  Cossacks  to  guard 
the  train,  10  pieces  of  field  artillery,  varying  from 
three  to  twenty  pounders,  three  mortars,  1140 
camels,  and  no  fewer  than  777  waggons,  besides 
ox-traias  and  baggage  horses. 

The  steamer  "  Perovski  "  likewise  took  part  in 
the  expedition ;  a  company  of  infantry  having  been 
placed  on  board  of  her  at  Aralsk.  After  transporting 
this  additional  force,  together  with  some  heavy 
stores  to  Kosh-Kurgan,  its  instructions  were  to 
proceed  up  stream  as  far  as  Ak-Mechet. 

On  the  23rd  June  the  force  reached  the  right 
bank  of  the  Kara-Uziak.  The  first  stage,  from 
Kazaly  to  Baskara  settlement,  a  distance  of  about 
1 7  miles,  was  performed  through  excellent  meadow 
land,  high  reeds  and  even  cultivated  fields ;  the 
remaining  portion  of  the  distance  to  Kara-Uziak, 
■notwithstanding   the   close   proximity  of  a    great 


342  Ti-ficcla  in  (\'iitral  Ji^ia. 

river,  extended  through  a  sahne  argillaceous  soil, 
lying  in  a  tract  depressed  below  the  usual  level  of 
the  Steppe,  the  barrenness  of  which  even  exceeds 
the  Kara-Kum  sands.  Good  though  small  patches 
of  meadow-land  occurred  at  a  distance  of  not  less 
than  12  or  15  miles  from  each  other,  and  these,  the 
only  spots  suitaljle  for  agricultural  pm-suits,  were 
used  for  encampment  at  night.  In  the  absence  of 
these  oases,  which  were  produced  by  heavy  spring 
rains,  it  would  have  been  impossible  even  for  a 
small  force  to  have  marched  along  the  banks  of 
the  river.  In  these  parts  even  the  Kirghizes 
and  their  camels  can  only  exist  dming  the  wdnter 
in  the  reeds.  The  only  human  traces  to  be  met 
\\  ith  here  are  solitary  graves,  or  large  cemeteries  of 
iiiK'ient  and  modern  origin.  In  the  absence  of 
more  definite  physical  features,  by  Mliicli  to  dis- 
tinguish them,  these  cemeteries  give  the  names  to 
the  surrounding  settlements. 

Notwithstanding  the  sterility  of  the  country 
lying  along  the  Syr-Daria,  the  expeditionary  force 
reached  Kara-l  ziak  satisfactorily.  The  sultry  heat, 
tempered  as  it  was  in  the  day-time  by  cool  breezes, 
could  be  sustained  by  both  men  and  beasts  without 
any  suffering;  fortunately,  also,  during  the  last  week 
of   the  march,  there  a\  as  a   fall  of  rain,   and   the 


Danger  from  Fire  in  the  Steppe.  343 

atmosphere  was  cleared  on  three  occasions  by 
thunder  storms.  There  were  throughout  the 
entire  march  only  seven  men  suffering  from  sick- 
ness in  the  three  battalions,  while  not  a  single  horse 
or  camel  was  lost. 

Leaving  Kara-Uziak  on  the  26th  June,  the 
troops  were  met  by  a  swarm  of  locusts,  which 
continued  flying  over  their  heads  for  a  whole  day. 
In  some  places  they  were  obliged  to  march  over  a 
thick  layer  of  these  insects.  All  the  grass  and 
yeeds  were  consumed  by  these  pests  along  the  whole 
route,  and  at  night,  no  herbage  could  be  procured 
for  the  horses,  which  were  on  this  occasion  fed  on 
dry  provender.  Happily,  the  tract  of  country 
despoiled  by  the  locusts  was  soon  left  behind  by  the 
troops,  and  on  the  next  day  grass  was  again 
procured. 

The  force  still  more  fortunately  escaped  another 
serious  danger  of  by  no  means  unfrequent  occur- 
rence in  the  Steppe. 

Two  nights  in  succession  a  lurid  reflection  was  seen 
in  the  skies,  and  a  black  pillar  of  smoke  in  the  day 
time,  which  told  of  burning  reeds  and  brushwood 
ahead.  And  so  it  proved ;  between  Bergunda 
settlement  and  Tura-Tan  tomb,  scorched  tracts  of 
land,  with  a  strong  smell  of  burning  reeds  in  the 


-■544  Travels  in  Cejdral  J.sia. 

air,  were  passed.  Had  the  fire  made  headway 
from  this  point,  the  safety  of  the  troops  would  have 
been  seriously  jeopardized.  Luckily,  heavy  showers 
of  rain  falling  for  two  days  had  extinguished  the 
smouldering  Steppe. 

Gad  flies  and  mosquitoes,  likewise  sorely  tried 
the  patience  both  of  men  and  animals  ;  the  water 
also  in  the  last  stages  was  bad,  so  that  wells 
had  to  be  excavated  at  several  places.  Within 
three  stages  of  Ak-Mechet  the  corps  had  to  encoim- 
ter  great  fatigue  in  marching  along  the  narrow; 
track  of  the  road,  which  is  thickly  overgrown  with 
prickly  shrubs  and  intersected  at  frequent  intervals 
by  canals,  some  of  which  are  deep  and  have  strong 
currents.  Every  step  of  the  road  had  to  be  cleared 
of  prickly  obstacles,  and  frequent  stoppages  were 
necessary  for  filling  in  the  canals  and  levelling  then- 
raised  banks.  The  progress  of  the  corps  was  only 
at  the  average  rate  of  two  versts  an  hour  and  even  less. 
At  length,  on  the  :2iid  of  July,  Perovski  arrived 
before  Ak-Mechet  with  a  light  detachment,  and  en- 
camped on  the  banks  of  the  Syr,  within  600  fathoms 
of  the  walls  of  the  fortress. 

Meanwhile  the  Kokanians  had  lost  no  time  in 
taking  advantage  of  the  unsuccessful  attempt  of  the 
Russians  against  Ak-Mechet  during  the  previous 


Additional  Fortifications  at  Ak-Mechet.      345 

year.     In  anticipation  of  a  new  Russian  expedition, 
they  had  made  great  improvements   in  the  forti- 
fications of  their  stronghold.    The  exterior  rampart, 
which  would  have  facilitated  approaches  to  the 
citadel,  was  now  demolished,    and  the  buildings 
inside   pulled   dovra.      Two   ditches,   which   had 
encircled  the  citadel,  were  joined  into  one,  one  and 
a  half  fathom  broad  and  ten  feet  deep.      The  con- 
figuration of  the  citadel  had  likewise  been  changed. 
The  interior   angles   were    destroyed;    the   walls 
thickened,  and  the  whole  place  had  been  made  to 
assume  a  more   regular  shape.     The  citadel  con- 
sisted of  a  quadrangular  structure,  with  eight  towers 
situated  at  the  angles  and  at  the  centre  of  the 
faces.     The  height  of  the  walls  was  fom*  fathoms. 
The  summit  of  the  walls  was  protected  at  the  faces 
by   crenelated    battlements  five  feet  in  thickness, 
and  by  a  breastwork  on  the  towers.     The  embra- 
sures in  this  breastwork,  as  also  those  in  the  walls, 
being  formed   of  cemented  lumps    of  clay,  were 
easily  concealed.     The  citadel  being  Hkewise  con- 
structed of  the  same   materials,   could   be  easily 
repaired  when   damaged.     The  only  gates  of  the 
citadel,  which  were   on   the   southern  face,  were 
defended  by  a  lofty  crenelated  wall  on  their  exte- 
rior front. 


346  Travels  la  Central  Ada. 

In  the  interior  of  the  citadel,  mud  huts,  as  the 
Kirghizes  said,  were  erected  in  regular  order  and 
formed  narrow  lanes.  According  to  information 
which  the  Russians  received,  the  garrison  consisted 
at  that  time  of  300  men,  of  whom  100  had  horses, 
and  was  provided  with  provisions  and  provender 
calculated  to  last  a  month.  The  citadel  was  armed 
with  three  guns,  two  of  which  threw  one  and  a  half 
inch  shells.  It  was  ascertained  that  shot,  shell,  and 
gunpowder  had  been  sent  to  the  fortress  from 
Tashkend  on  sixty  camels.  The  garrison  had  also 
prepared  pieces  of  clay  and  huge  blocks  of  wood 
on  the  walls,  to  hurl  down  at  the  assailants,  on 
their  reaching  the  breach. 

On  receipt  of  the  foregoing  information,  and  after 
a  personal  inspection  of  the  place,  Perovski  arrived  at 
the  conclusion  that  the  number  and  calibre  of  the 
guns  of  his  force,  and  also  the  supply  of  shot  and 
shell  at  his  disposal,  were  insufiicent  for  making  a 
breach  in  the  clay  walls  of  four  fathoms  thickness. 
He  also  considered  it  inexpedient  to  order  an  assault 
of  the  walls,  six  fathoms  high,  with  fascines  and 
ladders  alone,  without  first  making  a  breach. 
Perovski  resolved  therefore  not  to  hurry  on  the 
approaches,  and  decided,  in  case  the  horizontal  fire 
iailed    to  make   the    garrison   surrender,  that  the 


Coinmc'HceiJieut  of  Active  Hostilities.       347 

assault  was  not  to  be  attempted  until  the  mine 
imder  the  tower  had  been  sprung. 

Messengers  were  despatched,  immediately  on  the 
arrival  of  Perovski,  summoning  the  commander  of 
the  fort  to  surrender.  The  Kokanians,  however, 
allowed  the  bearers  of  the  flag  of  truce  to  approach 
close  within  gun-shot,  and  then  opened  on  them  a 
fire  pf  musketry,  succeeded  by  discharges  &om 
their  guns.  Prom  this  day  a  regular  fire  was 
maintained  from  the  fort.  As  siege  operations 
could  only  be  undertaken  on  the  arrival  of  the 
remaining  portion  of  the  troops,  pending  their  arrival 
the  necessary  preliminary  works  w^ere  at  once  com- 
menced. A  reconnoissance  was  made  of  the 
neighbourhood  of  Ak-Mechet,  and  a  survey  taken 
of  the  whole  of  Ak-Mechet  island.  A  party  of  Cos- 
sacks was  sent  to  occupy  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
river,  facing  the  fort,  to  observe  the  enemy's  move- 
ments, the  breadth  of  the  river  was  measured,  and 
found  to  be  from  308  to  318  fathoms  opposite  the 
fort,  communication  with  the  left  bank  was 
established  by  a  ferry,  and  lastly  fascines  were 
being  prepared.  On  the  4th  July  the  steamer 
"Perovski,"  commanded  by  Captain  Butakov, 
arrived  and  cast  anchor  two  versts  below  the  fort. 

On  the  5th  July,  the  first  battery  was  erected  at 


348  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

250  fathoms  from  the  fortress,  and  on  the  6th,  on 
which  day  a  concentration  of  the  whole  Russian 
force  took  place,  another  battery  was  constructed 
on  the  left  bank. 

By  the  8th  aU  the  five  Russian  batteries  had  opened 
fire  on  the  fort.  By  the  9th  part  of  the  batteries 
had  been  advanced  to  150  fathoms  of  the  walls. 
The  approaches  were  commenced  on  the  10th.  On 
the  13th,  a  Kirghiz,  seized  at  Kosh- Kurgan  as  a 
Kokanian  spy,  was  sent  to  the  fort  with  a  summons 
for  the  garrison  to  surrender.  He  was  at  the  same 
time  the  beai-er  of  the  following  letter  to  the  Koka- 
nian Commandant : — 

""From  the  Governor -General   of   Orenburg  to  the 
Commander  of  the  Fortress  of  Ak-2Iechet. 

"  By  order  of  my  Sovereign,  the  Emperor  of  all 
the  Russias,  I  have  come  to  take  Ak-Mechet,  erected 
by  the  Kokanians  on  Russian  territory  for  the  pur- 
pose of  oppressing  the  Kirghizes,  subjects  of  His 
Imperial  Majesty. 

"  Ak-Mechet  is  already  taken,  although  you  are 
inside  it,  and  you  cannot  faU  to  perceive  that  with- 
out losing  any  of  my  men,  I  am  in  a  position  to 
destroy  every  one  of  you. 


Diplomatic  Prelhninaries  of  the  Siege.     349 

"  The  Russians  have  come  hither  not  for  a  day, 
nor  yet  for  a  year,  but  for  ever.  They  will  not 
retire. 

"  If  you  wish  to  live,  ask  for  mercy;  should  you 
prefer  to  die  in  Ak-Mechet,  you  can  do  so ;  I  am 
not  pressed  for  time,  and  do  not  intend  to  hurry  you. 
1  here  repeat  that  I  do  not  come  to  offer  you  com- 
bat, but  to  thrash  you  until  you  open  your  gates. 

"  All  this  I  would  have  told  you  on  the  first  day 
of  my  arrival,  when  I  approached  the  waUs  of  your 
fortress  unarmed,  had  you  not  traitorously  opened 
fire  on  me,  which  is  not  customary  among  honour- 
able soldiers." 

An  answer  to  this  summons  was  to  be  returned 
before  evening.  The  messenger  was  admitted 
into  the  fortress ;  in  the  meantime  the  firing  was 
discontinued  on  both  sides  until  evening,  when 
the  messenger  returned  with  a  reply  from  the 
Commandant.  This  was  to  the  efiect  that  the 
existing  Kokanian  Government  declined  to  be 
answerable  for  the  acts  of  oppression  committed  in 
the  country  by  the  Kiptchaks;  that  the  Russian 
detachment  had  approached  the  fortress  without 
having  declared  war,  and  that  it  was  owing  to  this 
that  the  Kokanians  fired  at  the  Russian  truce- 
bearers;    that    the    commander    was    willing    to 


350  Travels  in  Central  Jsia. 

evacuate  the  fortress  on  condition  that  the  Russians 
allowed  him  fifteen  days  for  the  purpose,  and  retired 
from  under  the  walls.  The  garrison  would  other- 
wise resist  so  long  as  the  gun  barrels  remained  in 
their  stocks,  or  their  sword-blades  and  spear-handles 
unbroken,  and  the  supply  of  Kisiak*  vmexhausted. 

In  consequence  of  this  message,  the  bombard- 
ment was  renewed  on  both  sides  on  the  following 
day,  and  the  Russians  continued  to  throw  up  siego 
works.  From  the  commencement  of  the  attack, 
and  throughout  its  duration,  the  besieged  o])- 
posed  a  stern  resistance  to  the  Russians  in  their 
efforts  to  take  the  place,  and  very  expeditiously  re- 
paired all  damages.  By  the  14th  (26th)  July,  the 
approaches  were  brought  to  within  two  fathoms  of 
the  ditch.  The  slow  advance  of  the  siege  works 
caiised  great  discontent  among  the  Russian  soldiers 
and  Cossacks.  On  reaching  Ak-Mechet  they  were 
confident  that  the  fortress  would  be  taken  a  day  or 
two  after  then-  appearance  before  its  walls.  Regard- 
less of  the  breadth  and  depth  of  the  moat,  and  the 
height  and  steepness  of  the  walls,  they  impatiently 
awaited  orders  for  storming  the  place  in  preference 
to  the  tedium  of  siege  operations. 

*  Kisiak. — Hard   lumps  of  clay   hurled  from   the   walls  at  tlie 
besieged. 


Incidents  of  the.  Siege.  351 

The  Kirghizes,  who  stood  in  great  awe  of  the 
Kokanians,  and  had  been  impoverished  by  them, 
were  at  first  afraid  that  the  Russians  would  retire 
from  before  Ak-Mechet.  Theu-  apprehensions  on 
this  account  were  so  strong  that  they  at  first 
obstinately  refused  to  sell  their  cattle  to  the  Rus- 
sian soldiery,  fearing  the  vengeance  of  the  Koka- 
nians. Seeing,  however,  that  the  besiegers  were 
making  preparations  for  passing  the  winter  in  the 
district,  their  apprehensions  were  pacified,  and 
about  150  of  them  volunteered  their  assistance  in 
erecting  temporary  quarters  and  magazines. 

The  siege  works  continued  to  advance ;  the  in- 
fantry soldiers,  Cossacks,  and  bashkirs  were  all  em- 
ployed in  digging  trenches.  If  the  latter  could 
only  have  been  kept  silent  during  the  night  work, 
they  would  have  been  more  serviceable  than  the 
other  troops.  But  they  were  distinguished  by  a 
childish  simplicity;  and  unnecessarily  exposed  them- 
selves to  danger.  Nearly  all  those  bashkirs  who  had 
been  wounded,  were  themselves  to  blame.  Some 
were  either  tired  of  proceeding  under  cover  of  the 
trenches,  and  would  boldly  expose  themselves  to 
the  fire  of  the  Kokanians,  or  some  would  stealthilv 
repair  to  the  melon  fields  under  the  walls,  to 
slake  their  thirst  with  the  water-melons  and  other 
fruits  that  grew  in  abundance  there. 


352  Travels  in  Central  Af<ia. 

The  infantry  soldiers,  Cossacks,  and  bashkirs 
displayed  great  daring.  One  of  the  former,  called - 
Gregorief,  on  one  occasion  spied  some  bags  filled 
with  earth,  which  had  probably  fallen  down  from  the 
breastwork  erected  by  the  Kokanians  on  the  top 
of  the  tower.  He  sallied  out  in  the  middle  of  the 
day,  and  mounting  the  breach,  seized  the  bags,  and 
shook  the  earth  out  of  them,  after  which  he  quietly 
returned  to  his  post,  imder  a  straggling  fire  of  the 
besieged.  On  being  reprimanded  for  his  temerity, 
he  urged  in  excuse,  that  his  linen  was  in  a  dilapi- 
dated condition,  and  that  he  required  the  bags  for 
furnishing  himself  with  a  fresh  stock. 

The  Kirghizes,  in  the  meantime,  seeing  that 
nearly  three  weeks  had  already  elapsed  since 
the  Russian  troops  first  appeared  before  Ak- 
Mechet,  and  that  the  fortress  still  held  out, 
began  to  entertain  fears  that  it  would  never  fall 
into  the  hands  of  the  Russians.  A  rumour  had  fur- 
thermore reached  the  Khghizes  that  a  strong  force 
was  on  its  way  from  Tashkend  to  relieve  Ak- 
Mechet,  and  the  garrison  evidently  expected  speedy 
succour  from  that  quarter.  Perofski  determined, 
therefore,  to  reconnoitre  the  country  towards  Tash- 
kend, as  far  as  Fort  Djulek.  This  operation  was 
entrusted    to  Major-General  Padurof,  who,  taking 


Prosecution  of  the  Siec/e.  353 

fifty  Bashkirs  and  a  liglit  field-piece,  marched  out 
on  the  21st  July  (2nd  August),  and  reached  Fort 
Djulek  —  distant  100  miles  from  Ak-Mechet— on 
the  evening  of  the  23rd.  When  within  a  few 
miles  of  the  fort,  he  ascertained  from  some  Kir- 
ghizes that  the  sixty  Kokanians  who  had  occupied 
it,  hearing  of  the  advance  of  the  Russian  detach- 
ment, had  hastily  abandoned  it,  and  fled  in  the  di- 
rection of  Turkestan,  leaving  their  arms  behind. 
General  Padurof  inamediately  took  possession  of 
the  fort,  and  remained  in  it  until  the  25th  July. 
During  that  time  he  blew  down  the  walls,  and  set 
fire  to  the  buildings  inside.  By  the  27th  July 
(8th  August)  he  returned  to  the  Russian  camp, 
bringing  with  him  twenty  guns,  falconets,  powder, 
and  lead,  seized  in  the  fort.  These  trophies  dis- 
pelled the  fears  of  the  Kirghizes  concerning  the  ad- 
vance of  a  relieving  force  from  Tashkend. 

The  siege  works  meanwhile  approached  comple- 
tion ;  the  fosse  of  the  fortress  had  already  been 
passed  by  a  covered  sap,  and  the  mine-gallery 
finished.  It  only  now  remained  to  load  the  two 
chambers,  which  was  done  during  the  night  of  the 
27th  July  (8th  August).  The  troops  at  the  same 
time  received  full  instructions  for  action.  The 
arrangements  for  storming  were  as  follows  : — 

A  A 


354  Travels  in  Ce7itral  Asia. 

At  ten  o'clock  on  the  moming  of  the  27th 
August,  two  congreve  rockets  were  to  be  discharged 
at  the  walls.  At  eleven,  a  gun  was  to  be  fired  from 
one  battery,  and  a  second  shot  made  at  one  o'clock 
on  the  morning  of  the  28th  Jidy  (9th  August) 
from  another  battery.  At  midnight,  and  at  two 
o'clock,  false  alarms  were  to  be  sounded  in  the 
trenches,  in  order  to  lead  the  garrison  to  suppose 
that  the  infantry  besieging  the  fortress  was  still  on 
the  same  groimd.  The  shots  from  the  batteries, 
rockets,  and  two  alarms,  were  intended  to  fatigue 
the  Kokanians,  and  lead  them  to  suppose  that  the 
assault  would  not  be  made  that  night.  It  was, 
therefore,  to  be  expected  that  towards  dawn  all 
would  be  asleep  in  the  fortress. 

After  the  first  alarm  at  midnight,  the  troops 
were  to  commence  issuing  in  parties  from  the 
trenches,  and  their  gradual  withdrawal  was  to  con- 
tinue until  the  second  alarm.  Before  dawn,  at  three 
in  the  morning,  on  the  discharge  of  three  rockets, 
the  remaining  soldiers  were  to  abandon  the  works, 
and  a  company  would  occupy  the  covered  trenches. 
All  the  other  men  would  then  be  stationed  300 
fathoms  from  the  point  where  the  mine  would  ex- 
plode. After  this,  at  half-past  three,  when  three 
rockets  would  be  discharged  in  rapid  succession, 


Tlie  Sap  Finished  and  the  Mine  Sprunc/.    855 

the  mine  would  be  sprung,  and  the  storm  would 
immediately  commence. 

All  these  arrangements  were  pimctually  carried 
out.  At  three  o'clock,  in  the  grey  light  of  dawn, 
the  earth  shook,  and  a  black  mass  of  earth  was 
hurled  into  the  air,  falling  down  in  two  confused 
mounds  on  the  ground.  Dense  clouds  of  dust 
enveloped  the  fortress,  and  piercing  shrieks  arose 
from  behind  the  walls.  The  mine  was  sprung 
most  successfully;  the  part  blown  up  presented 
an  opening  more  than  ten  fathoms  broad,  and  for- 
tunately the  dam  for  the  covered  sap  across  the 
ditch,  in  front  of  the  mine  gallery,  had  been  left 
uninjured. 

The  breach  thus  made,  even  before  it  had  time 
to  become  clearly  defined  through  the  thick  clouds 
of  dust,  was  kept  clear  by  discharges  of  grape 
from  the  batteries  opposite  it.  The  garrison 
at  this  critical  moment  showed  great  presence  of 
mind  and  intrepidity.  Five  minutes  had  hardly 
elapsed  after  the  explosion,  and  the  shrieks  and 
cries  of  the  women  and  children  had  not  yet 
subsided,  when  the  Kokanians  were  already  at 
the  breach,  and  though  exposed  to  a  severe  fire  of 
grape,  poured  heavy  discharges  of  musketry  at 
the    batteries    and    Russian   storming    columns. 


350  TrdcelK:  in  Central  Jx'ta. 

According  to  previous  arrangemeiits,  the  storming 
party  was  led  by  the  1st  company  of  the  4th 
battalion  of  the  line,  headed  by  a  party  of 
sharpshooters,  the  whole  force  being  commanded 
by  Lieutenant  Erdeli.  Twice  the  Russians  rushed 
to  the  assault,  but  were  vigorously  repulsed  each 
time,  and  driven  into  the  ditch  ;  it  was  only  after 
tlie  third  attempt  that  the  Kokanians  were  forced 
to  retreat,  and  the  Russians,  reinforced  by  another 
company,  occupied  all  the  walls  and  opened  fire 
from  the  guns  on  the  gamson  inside.  The  assault 
lasted  altogether  twenty  minutes,  and  by  half- 
])ast  4  A.  M.  of  the  Sth  of  August,'  the  fortress 
was  in  the  hands  of  the  Russians. 

The  defence  of  the  Kokanians  at  the  breach, 
and  at  all  points,  was  most  desperate.  Notwith- 
standing that  Muhamed-Vali,  the  commandant, 
who  had  upheld  the  spirit  of  the  garrison,  was 
killed  at  the  commencement  of  the  storm,  all 
his  subordinates  showed  the  same  determined 
spirit,  and  were  kiUed  to  a  man.  Two  hundi-ed 
and  thirty  bodies  were  counted  in  the  ditch  and 
inside  the  fort,  which  proves  that  the  struggle, 
though  short,  was  exceedingly  severe. 

The  Russian  loss  consisted  of  thirteen  soldiers 
killed,    twelve    mortally,    seventet'U    severely,    and 


Results  of  the  Capture  of  Ak-Mechet.       357 

twenty-three  slightly  wounded,  and  eight  officers 
wounded.  The  trophies  of  the  victors  were  two 
bunchuks,  or  horse-tail  standards,  two  spear  flags, 
two  brass  guns,  several  falconets,  sixty-six  pieces 
of  artillery,  mostly  dismantled  and  shattered, 
one  hundred  and  fifty  sabres,  and  two  suits  of 
chain-armour.  In  addition  to  these,  there  were 
captured  1000  cannon-balls,  a  considerable 
quantity  of  powder  and  lead,  and  one  hundred  and 
twenty  horses. 

The  capture  of  Ak-Mechet  must  have  produced 
a  strong  impression  on  the  Kokanians,  as  in  it  they 
possessed  a  very  important  position  in  military 
and  commercial  respects.  This  fortress  was 
considered  the  strongest  bulwark  of  Kokanian 
dominion  on  the  Lower  Syr,  and  by  several 
supposed  to  be  impregnable,  it  having  withstood 
several  sieges.  This  belief  in  its  strength  explains 
to  some  extent  the  desperate  efforts  made  in  its 
defence,  and  its  fate  was  a  severe  blow  to  the 
Kokanians,  who,  in  all  probability  will  yet  make 
several  attempts  to  regain  it. 

Perovski  intended  at  first  to  leave  Ak-Mechet 
(named  Fort  Perovski  by  the  Russians  after  its 
capture)  in  the  same  condition,  only  proposing  to 
repair    the    damages    it    had    sustained    by   the 


358  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

explosion  and  cannonade,  and  to  strengthen  its 
lateral  defences. 

On  tlie  march  of  the  expeditionary  corps  to 
Ak-Mechet,  two  forts  were  erected  on  the  Syr- 
Daria,  according  to  plans  drawn  up  by  Perovski ; 
one  at  the  source  of  the  Kazala,  the  other  at 
Karmakchi  settlement.  After  the  taking  of  Ak- 
Mechet,  the  small  Kokanian  fort  of  Kumysh- 
Kurgan,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Kuvan-Darya, 
was  occupied  by  the  Russians.  During  the 
siege  of  Ak-Mechet  this  small  fort  had  been 
abandoned  by  the  Kokanians,  who  on  taking  to 
flight,  were  attacked  and  beaten  by  the  Kirghizes, 
who  brought  to  Perovski  the  falconets  and  several 
pieces  of  ordnance  found  by  them  in  the  fort. 

The  fort  founded  on  the  head  waters  of  the 
Kazala  was  ordered  to  be  named  Port  No.  1,* 
that  at  Karmakchi  Port  No.  2,  and  lastly  Port 
Kumysh-Kurgan,  Port  No.  3.  f 

Meanwhile  the  Kokanians  could  not  look  with 
indifference  on  the  establishment  of  the  Russians 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Syr-Daria,  and  determined 
at  all  hazards  to  recaptm-e  Ak-Mechet. 

On  the  21st  August  (2nd  September)  reliable  in- 

*  The  Aral  Fort  was  removed  liither  in  1855. 
t  Abandoned  in  1855. 


Etiffaffement  tvith  a  Kokanian  Reinforcement.  359 

formation  was  brought  by  spies  to  Fort  Perovski, 
that  a  considerable  force  of  Kokanians  had  marched 
out  from  Tashkend,  headed  by  the  ruler  of  that 
town,  Sabdan-Hodja ;  that  he  had  passed  by  Tur- 
kestan, and  now  occupied  the  ruined  Eort  Djulek. 
Intelligence  was  shortly  after  received  of  the 
enemy  having  advanced  on  Fort  Perovski.  A  de- 
tachment of  275  men  with  three  field -pieces,  was 
thereupon  sent  to  reconnoitre  and  attack  the  Koka- 
nians who  were  posted  at  the  old  Ber-Kazansk  ford, 
twenty-eight  versts  (eighteen  miles)  from  the  fort, 
at  Kum-Suat  settlement.  The  detachment  had 
only  just  time  to  form  line  of  battle,  when  it  was 
attacked  by  clouds  of  Kokanian  horsemen,  who 
dashed  forward  with  loud  cries.  The  first  charge 
was  repulsed  by  discharges  of  grape  and  musketry, 
but  the  Kokanians  continued  to  repeat  their  attacks 
from  eleven  in  the  morning  until  it  grew  dusk. 
Becoming  at  last  fatigued,  and  having  lost  a  con- 
siderable number  in  killed  and  wounded,  they 
kindled  fires  around  the  Russian  position,  and 
apparently  resolved  to  encamp  there  for  the 
night. 

Surrounded  by  the  enemy,  and  having  already 
had  five  men  killed  and  twenty-one  wounded, 
Borodin,  the  officer  in  charge  of  the  Russian  de- 


360  Travels  in  Central   Ixia. 

tachment,  despatched  messengers  to  the  fort  for 
reinforcements,  two  Cossacks  and  three  Ku-ghizes, 
who  swam  down  the  river  at  night,  being  the 
beai'ers  of  the  demands  for  succour.  An  additional 
force,  consisting  of  200  foot  soldiers  and  Cossacks, 
with  one  gun,  accordingly  reached  the  detachment 
by  mid-day  of  the  25th  August  (5th  September). 
Their  assistance,  however,  was  not  required. 
Already  before  dawn  the  Russian  outposts  heard  a 
movement  among  the  Kokanians,  and  at  dajbreak 
it  was  discovered  that  they  were  already  in  motion 
and  retreating  rapidly  out  of  sight.  The  Cossacks 
sent  in  pursuit  could  not  overtake  them.  The  loss 
of  the  Kokanians  in  this  aflPair  amounted  to 
192  men  killed,  whose  bodies  were  found  on  the 
field  ;  the  wounded  were  carried  off,  according  to 
some  Kirghizes,  on  ninety-six  camels,  while  the 
whole  numerical  strength  of  the  enemy  had  not 
exceeded  7000  men. 

Information  was  soon  after  brought  by  traders 
returning  from  Kokan,  and  by  Kirghizes,  that  large 
supplies  of  provisions,  powder,  and  lead  were  being 
brought  to  Turkestan.  It  was,  moreover,  reported 
that  the  Khan  oi  Khokan  intended  to  repair  to 
Turkestan  in  person,  and  to  march  against  Fort 
Perovski    as    soon   as  the   S\r-Daria  was    frozen. 


Humours  of  an  Attach  in  Force.  361 

These  rumours  did  not,  however,  become  confirmed 
until  the  end  of  Noveinber.  On  the  30th  of  that 
month  (0.  S.)  and  more  particularly  on  the  5th 
December,  Lieutenant-Colonel  Ogaref,  commanding 
the  left  flank  of  the  Syr-Daria  line,  ascertained  that 
the  Khan  of  Kokan  had  ordered  a  large  force  to 
assemble  at  Tashkend,  under  the  command  of 
Takun-Beg,  commander-in-chief  of  the  Khan,  with 
the  object  of  attacking  the  Russians.  This  force 
marched  to  Turkestan  on  the  24th  November, 
moved  to  Yany-Kurgan  on  the  2nd  December,  and 
reached  Djulek  during  the  night  of  the  4th.  Erom 
Yany-Kurgan,  the  Kokanians  sent  addresses  to  the 
Begs  of  the  Kiptchak  Kirghiz  tribe  encamped  near 
the  Russians.  The  Kokanians  in  these  addresses  en- 
deavoured to  conciliate  the  Kirghizes,  declaring  that 
they  should  not  suffer  any  harm,  and  that  the 
armed  force  was  directed  against  the  Russians,  who 
were  to  be  driven  not  only  from  Fort  Perovski,  but 
also  out  of  aU  the  other  forts  of  the  Steppe. 

The  position  of  the  Syr-Daria  line  at  this 
period  was  far  from  being  secure,  as  it  was  im- 
possible to  send  reinforcements  to  Port  Perovski 
during  the  winter  season.  A  winter  expedition 
could  not  be  undertaken  without  special  prepara- 
tions.    The  garrison  of   the    fort,    however,  was 

B  B 


362  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

relatively  sufficiently  strong ;  it  consisted  of  631 
infantry  soldiers,  287  cavalry,  ninety-five  artillery- 
men, and  forty-two  sailors,  making  a  total  of 
1055  combatants,  vpith  fourteen  guns  and  five 
mortars.  The  fort  was  also  supplied  with  forage 
and  other  provisions  for  a  year  and  a  half.  Under 
such  circumstances,  and  considering  the  repulse 
sustained  by  the  Kokanians,  when  they  had 
advanced  in  superior  numbers  in  the  month  of 
August  preceding,  success  could  safely  be  counted 
on,  should  they  venture  on  another  attack. 

The  condition  of  Forts  No.  2  and  3,  situated  at 
200  and  60  versts  respectively  from  Fort  Perovski, 
was  much  more  embarrassing.  Owing  to  their 
isolation,  assistance  could  not  be  sent  to  them 
from  the  latter  place.  The  defences  of  Fort  No.  3 
were  very  weak,  'and  had  only  been  hurriedly 
repaired  after  the  Kokanians  had  abandoned  it ; 
while  Fort  No.  2  ■was  nothing  more  than  a  field- 
work,  and  did  not  afford  the  garrison  sufficient 
shelter  from  snow-drifts.  Although  the  garrisons 
of  these  forts  were  strong  enough  in  proportion  to 
the  size  of  the  works,  they  were  }ct  numerically 
weak.  In  Fort  No.  2,  in  December,  there  were 
fifty-five  foot  soldiers,  fifty-fom^  cavalry,  seven 
artillerymen,  making  in  all  116  men  and  one  gun. 


Fort  Perovski  iesieged  hy  13,000  Kokanians.  363 

Fort  No.  3  was  manned  by  fifty-five  foot  soldiers, 
twenty-six  cavalry,  and  seven  artillerymen,  in  all 
eighty-eight  men  and  one  gun.  These  would  not 
have  been  able  to  resist  a  numerous  enemy.  As 
to  Port  Perovski,  that  general,  foreseeing  the 
possibility  of  an  attack  in  the  winter,  made  arrange- 
ments in  the  autumn  for  strengthening  the  garri- 
son with  100  Cossacks  of  the  Ural  from  Fort 
Aralsk. 

Such  was  the  condition  of  the  Russian  fortifica- 
tions on  the  Syr-Daria  line,  when,  on  the  14th  of 
December,  the  Kokanians — numbering  from  12,000 
to  13,000  men,  with  a  small  park  of  seventeen 
brass  guns,  appeared  before  Fort  Perovski.  Having 
formed  a  camp  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Syr,  two 
and  a  haK  versts  from  the  fort,  they  made  attempts 
during  the  14th,  15th,  16th,  and  17th,  to  sur- 
round the  fort  on  all  sides,  but  were  always  com- 
pelled to  retire  in  disorder.  The  fire  of  the 
Kokanian  artillery  did  not  produce  any  damage 
to  the  fort,  while  that  of  the  Russians  did  great 
execution.  Lieutenant- Colonel  Ogaref,  conscious 
of  the  disadvantage  ©f  being  besieged  for  a  long 
period  of  time,  resolved  to  try  the  effect  of  a 
sudden  sortie  on  the  enemy,  notwithstanding  the 
great    disparity  in  numbers.      At    dawn    on   the 

B  B  2 


364  Travels  in  Central  jhla. 

18th,  lie  sent  out  a  detachment  of  550  men,  with 
four  field-pieces  and  two  rocket  batteries,  under 
command  of  Major  Shkupa,  who,  under  cover  of 
the  fog,  approached  within  400  fathoms  of  the 
enemy's  camp,  and  opened  a  running  fire  of  artil- 
lery. The  Kokanians  replied  in  the  same  manner 
at  first,  and  then  made  several  attacks  in  front  and 
on  the  flanks,  but  all  these  were  repulsed  by  dis- 
charges of  grape  and  musketry.  The  enemy  at 
last  surrounded  the  Russian  detachment  on  all 
sides,  and  pressed  hard  in  the  rear  and  on  the 
flanks.  The  situation  of  the  Russians  was  be- 
coming rather  critical,  but  Major  Shkupa  gave  a 
fortunate  turn  to  the  aff'air.  Perceiving  that  the 
numbers  of  the  Kokanians  attached  to  the  guns 
and  ill  the  camp  had  considerably  diminished,  he 
rushed  forward  with  the  greater  part  of  his  force, 
routed  the  Kokanian  sharpshooters,  and  vigorously 
attacked  the  Kokanian  artillery.  The  artillerymen 
fled  in  disorder,  leaving  the  guns  and  baggage  in 
the  hands  of  the  Russians.  At  this  critical  juncture 
the  rest  of  the  Russian  force  that  had  remained 
in  position  were  sustaining  a  severe  fire,  and  even 
engaged  in  a  hand-to-hand  conflict,  until  the  Kokan- 
ians, alarmed  by  the  flames  of  their  burning  camp, 
and  attacked  l)y  two  fresh  detachments  consisting 


Kokaiiitui  Fhiiis  of  (Jaiiip(ii(jii.  ;3()5 

of  one  hundred  and  sixty  men,  that  had  been  sent 
out  of  the  fort,  hastily  retired  in  disorder.  The 
engagement  was  over  by  twelve  o'clock.  The  loss 
of  the  Kokanians  amounted  to  two  thousand  killed, 
and  the  Russians  had  eighteen  killed  and  forty-nine 
wounded.  The  trophies  that  were  captured  con- 
sisted of  four  horse-hair  standards,  seven  flags, 
seventeen  guns,  and  one  hundred  and  thirty  puds 
of  gunpowder. 

In  April,  1854,  Perovski  was  informed  that  the 
Kokanians  had  been  making  military  preparations 
on  a  great  scale  in  the  latter  part  of  the  winter  of 
the  preceding  year.  Troops  had  been  collected  in 
Turkestan,  and  a  gun  founder  had  been  sent  thither 
to  cast  some  guns,  for  which  purpose  the  Beg  of 
Tashkend  had  forcibly  seized  all  the  brass  utensils  of 
the  inhabitants.  An  organized  army  of  ten  thou- 
sand men  was  expected  to  arrive  at  Tashkend,  and 
orders  were  given  there  and  at  Kokan  to  prepare 
eight  hundred  horses  for  the  ensuing  spring.  The 
object  of  these  preparations  was  to  act  on  the 
defensive  in  case  the  Russians  should  march  on 
Turkestan  and  Tashkend.  Should  no  warlike  pre- 
parations be  made  by  the  Russians,  the  Kokanians 
then  intended  in  the  spring  to  march  against  the 
Russian  forts  on  the  Syr-Daria,  and  to  pillage  the 


366  Travels  in  Ceiifrnl  A-^ia. 

Kirghizes.  It  was  likewise  rumoured  that  the  Khan 
of  Khiva  had  promised  the  Kokanians  to  send  men 
and  guns  to  the  Fort  of  Hodja-Nias,  so  that  this  force 
could  either  act  conjointly  with  the  Kokanians 
against  Fort  Perovski,  or  else  attack  Fort  No.  2, 
while  the  Kokanians  besieged  Fort  Perovski.  But 
no  reliance  could  be  placed  on  this  report,  as  no  pre- 
parations were  being  made  at  Khiva  for  this  pur- 
pose. 

With  the  view  of  strengthening  Fort  Perovski, 
Perovski  determined  to  abandon  Fort  No.  2,  which 
was  not  strong  enough  to  hold  out  against  the 
attack  of  a  strong  force. 

After  the  capture  of  Ak-Mechet  by  the  Russians, 
and  the  defeats  of  the  Kokanian  hosts  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  preceding  year,  no  serious  movement 
could  be  expected  from  the  Kokanians.  The  great 
inundations  of  the  rivers  that  }'ear,  prevented  the 
Russians  from  reinforcing  their  garrisons  on  the 
Syr-Daria  line,  and  at  the  same  time  hindered  the 
erection  of  fresh  fortifications. 


CHAPTER   X. 


PAET  III. 


Events  in  the  Steppe  during  the  Crimean  War. — 
Iset-Kutebarof,  the  Knight  of  the  Steppe. — 
Attempt  of  Ferovski  to  occupy  Hodja-Nias. — Oc- 
cupation of  Bjulek,  and  Destruction  of  Yany- 
Kurc/an. 

1854-62. 

During  1854  rumours  of  hostile  preparations 
by  the  Kokanians  were  repeatedly  renewed  and 
confirmed  by  their  demeanour  in  the  Siberian 
Steppe.  Rumours  of  agitations  among  the  Kir- 
ghizes were  likewise  received  from  time  to  time.  The 
Sultan-Ali,  son  of  the  former  rebellious  chief, 
Kenisar-Kasimov,  was  said  to  be  collecting  together 


308  Travels  in  Central  Ai<ia. 

a  band  of  seven  thousand  men  for  co-operating  with 
the  Kokanians  by  attacking  the  Siberian  Kirghizes, 
and  forcing  them  to  secede  from  the  Russians.  The 
Kokanians  in  their  endeavours  to  gahi  over  the 
Dikokamenni  Kirghizes  to  their  side,  not  only  con- 
cealed the  defeats  they  had  sustained  in  1853,  but 
even  gave  out  that  they  had  completely  routed  the 
Russians,  and  declared  that,  having  now  joined  the 
Khan  of  Khiva,  the  Emir  of  Bokhara  and  the 
Sultan  of  Turkey,  who,  they  said,  had  already  des- 
patched a  strong  army  against  the  Russians,  they 
intended  to  drive  these  invaders  altogether  out  of 
the  Steppe. 

Suffi-Beg,  a  Kokanian  leader,  who  had  been 
forced  to  fly  m  ith  his  troops  from  Fort  Perovski, 
in  December,  1853,  said  to  the  Kirghizes,  "We 
slaughtered  the  Kaffirs  in  such  numbers  that  a 
horse  could  not  step  over  their  dead  bodies." 

Nothing  of  importance  occurred  imtil  the  month 
of  October.  This  irresolution  on  the  part  of  the 
Kokanians  was  partly  owing  to  the  relations  then 
subsisting  between  Kokan  and  Bokhara,  and 
partly  to  their  own  timidity  and  weakness.  It  was 
currently  reported  that  the  month  of  April  had 
been  fixed  on  for  their  march  on  Port  Perovski; 
but  the  appearance   of  Bokharian   troops  on    the 


Intrigues  on  the  Steppe.  369 

Kokan  frontier  induced  the  Khan  to  delay  the  de- 
parture of  his  force. 

The  Emir  of  Bokhara,  taking  advantage  of  the 
unsettled  state  of  Kokan,  collected  a  large  army^- 
most  probably  with  the  intention  of  employing  it 
against  Kokan,  on  the  first  favourable  opportunity. 
The  troops  assembled  by  theEmir,  receiving  neither 
pay  nor  provisions,  were  marched  by  his  orders  to 
the    Bokharian    Fortress   of   Konagatchi,  on  the 
borders  of  Bokhara  and  Kokan,  with  the  object 
of    sacking  the   frontier  Kokanian  forts.     It  was 
ovsdng  to  this  circumstance  that  the  Khan  of  Kokan 
diverted  the  expedition  against  Fort  Perovski  for 
the  time.     On  the  other  hand,  these  noisy  prepa- 
rations for  war  might  only   have  been  the  effect 
of  fear,  or  from  apprehension  that  the  Russians 
would  themselves  march  on  Turkestan  and  Tash- 
kend.     In  the  month  of  October,  intelligence  was 
brought  by    a   Kazan  merchant   from   Tashkend, 
of  the  arrival  of  a  Khivan  ambassador  and  suite 
at  that  town,  with  proposals  to  the  Ruler  of  Tash- 
kend to  make  a  combined  attack  on  Port  Perovski. 
But  as  that  ruler  was  under   the  control  of  the 
Khan  of  Kokan,  without  whose  sanction  he  could 
not  accede  to  the  request,  the  Khivan  ambassador 
had  proceeded  to  Kokan. 


•^  / "  'Pracch  in  Central  Asia. 

During  the  summer,  four  considerable  levies  of 
money  had  been  raised  from  the  inhabitants  of 
Tashkend,  and  a  force  despatched  in  the  direction 
of  the  Siberian  frontier.  At  the  same  time  that 
the  Khivan  ambassador  was  making  proposals  of 
alliance  with  the  Khan  of  Kokan,  the  commander 
of  the  Khivan  Tort  of  Hodja-Nias  sent  messengers 
to  the  Russian  authorities  on  the  Syr-Daria  line, 
with  assurances  of  friendship,  It  was  also  reported 
that  the  Khivans  intended,  with  a  large  force,  to 
invade  the  Russian  Steppe,  from  the  side  of  the 
Ust-Urt,  in  the  direction  of  the  Aralsk  Fort. 

During  the  whole  period  of  the  Crimean  war, 
from  1854  to  1856,  nothing  of  special  importance 
occurred  in  the  Steppe,  excepting  the  increase  of 
inroads  of  Kirghiz  bands,  particularly  under  the 
leadership  of  Iset  Kutebar.  This  man,  who  in 
1859,  during  his  visit  to  St.  Petersburg,  attracted 
great  attention  in  public,  had  for  twenty  years 
kept  the  Steppe  in  a  continual  state  of  alarm  and 
excitement. 

Iset  was  the  son  of  the  celebrated  robber  and 
baranta  leader  Kutebar,  and  the  constant  compa- 
nion of  his  father,  on  whose  death  he  assumed  the 
leadership  of  the  band.  Iset's  name  first  became 
famous  in  the  Steppe  in  1822,  for  the  robbery  of  a 


. /   Kirghiz  Bob  Ihitf. 


Ml 


Bokliavian  caravan  that  had  started  from  tlie 
Siberian  Hne.  It  would  be  too  tedious  to  enume- 
rate all  the  petty  depredations  of  this  liold  Kirghiz, 


IsetKttkbak 


and  it   will  therefore  be  suiRcient  to  mention  his 
more  remarkable  exploits  only. 

In  1834  he  drove  off  1,200  horses  belonging  to 


372  Trnveh  in  Centred  Asia. 

Kirghizes  of  the  Djikeyef  tribe.  In  1838  he  seized 
a  stud  of  Cossack  horses,  and  took  an  officer  and 
six  Cossacks  prisoners,  who  were  subsequently  re- 
leased. In  the  same  year  he  waylaid  and  pillaged 
a  caravan  of  Orenburg  traders,  carr}  ing  off  a  va- 
luable booty.  He  also  despoiled  the  Kirghizes  of 
the  Tabynsk  tribe  of  1500  horses,  besides  driving 
aAvay  200  head  of  cattle  from  the  old  fortification 
on  the  Emba.  In  1840  he  again  plundered  a  ca- 
ravan of  Russian  and  Bokharian  traders  to  the 
value  of  15,000  silver  roubles.  In  a  baranta  in  the 
year  1S42,  he  "lifted"  from  Kirghizes  of  various 
tribes  a  great  quantity  of  cattle,  and  about  2000 
horses.  Kutebar's  robberies  were  frequently  ac- 
companied by  murder,  and  after  his  acts  of  violence 
and  spoliation,  he  always  hastily-  retreated  into  the 
heart  of  the  Steppe,  or  into  the  Khivan  territory. 
Between  the  years  1S42  and  1^44  he  remained  at 
Khiva,  and,  returning  from  thence  to  the  Horde, 
tried  to  gain  the  favour  of  the  Russian  Government. 
He  kept  the  officers  on  the  frontier  acquainted 
with  the  plans  and  movements  of  the  Kirghiz 
Sultan  (Kenisar  Kasimof),  who  was  then  in  open 
revolt  in  the  Trans-Aral  Steppe,  and  furnished  in- 
formation regarding  the  affairs  of  Khiva. 

In  1845,    he    made  overtures     of    submission 


Career  of  J -set  Kulehdr. 


.'573 


to  Bai-Muhanied-Aichuvakof,   Sultan-ruler  of  the 
Western  division  of  the  Korde  ;  who,  deceived  by 
his  apparent  sincerity,  obtained  for  him — while  on 
1^. 


Nazu;  Kutedau. 


a  visit  at  St.  Petersl)urg — a  gold  uicdal  froui  the 
Russian  (Jovernment.  l^ut  before  this  mark  of 
favour  reached  Iset,  information  was  received  tliat, 


374  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

joined  by  100  Khivans,  and  a  considerable  band 
of  Kirghiz  adlierents,  he  had  commenced  pil- 
laging friendly  atils,  forbidding  them  to  pay  the 
tent-tax  to  Russia,  and  was  also  intriguing  to  pre- 
vent the  erection  of  Russian  forts  in  the  Steppe. 
His  force  was  soon  scattered  by  a  detachment  sent 
against  it,  and  tranquillity  again  restored.  But  it 
did  not  last  long.  In  1848,  Kutebar  again  sum- 
moned 600  Khivans,  and  made  a  sudden  on- 
slaught on  a  convoy  of  provisions  and  a  relieving 
detachment  proceeding  to  Fort  Aralsk.  The  at- 
tempt was  not  successful,  the  Khivans  having  been 
repulsed  and  put  to  flight.  Iset,  after  this,  again 
addressed  a  letter  to  the  Sultan-ruler  Araslan,  with 
assurances  of  fidelity  and  submission.  On  this  oc- 
casion, they  were  to  some  extent  confirmed  by  his 
actions.  He  immediately  afterwards  made  restitu- 
tion to  many  Kirghizes  whom  he  had  robbed  in  his 
"  barantas,"  transmitted  a  letter  from  the  Khan  of 
Khiva  inciting  him  to  rebel  against  the  Russians, 
restored  part  of  the  goods  of  which  he  had  robbed 
the  Bokharian  caravan  in  1847,  and  lastly,  in  1849, 
delivered  up  at  the  frontier,  the  greater  part  of  the 
cattle  he  had  seized  from  the  Kirghizes  at  different 
periods. 

By  these  acts,  Iset  succeeded  in  gaining  the  con- 


Treackery  of  Iset  Kutebar.  3.75 

fidence  of  the  Sultan  so  completely,  that  when  the 
latter  was  commissioned  to  watch  the  secret  rela- 
tions carried  on  between  Kutebar  and  the  Khivans, 
he  always  represented  his  conduct  in  a  favourable 
light  to  the  Russian  authorities. 

In  this  condition  did  Kutebar's  relations  with 
Russia  continue  until  1863,  when  he  again  ex- 
hibited his  treachery  by  inducing  the  Kirghizes  of 
his  camp  to  refuse  supplying  camels  for  the  expe- 
dition organized  at  that  time  against  Ak-Mechet. 
On  the  capture  of  that  fortress,  a  Russian  force  was 
sent  to  punish  Kutebar ;  the  search  for  hiiu  proved 
unsuccessful  on  account  of  the  lateness  of  the 
season,  but  was  again  renewed  in  the  spring  of 
1864,  from  Fort  Aralsk,  under  Lieutenant-Colonel 
Baron  Von  Wrangel.  This  officer,  accompanied 
by  several  Cossacks,  surprised  Kutebar  in  his 
"  aul,"  but  could  not  take  him  prisoner,  having  pre- 
viously promised  him  a  safe  passage  for  a  confer- 
ence. But  even  on  this  occasion  Kutebar  surren- 
dered the  malefactors  who  had  sought  refuge  in  his 
camp,  and  solemnly  swore  to  appear  at  Orenburg 
to  seek  mercy  and  forgiveness  for  his  misdeeds. 

This  promise,  like  the  preceding  ones  made  by 
him,  remained  unfulfilled.  Early  in  1865,  it  be- 
came known  that  Iset  had  renewed  his  relations 


376  Travels  in  Cciifral  As, 


la. 


with  Khiva,  that  he  openly  received  the  Khivan 
tax-gatherers,  and  M^as  again  collecting  a  band  of 
marauders.  On  the  strength  of  this,  Perovski  gave 
immediate  orders  to  the  commander  of  Port  Aralsk, 
to  watch  narrowly  the  movements  of  the  rebel,  and 
commanded  the  Sultan-ruler  Araslan  Djantiirin,  to 
take  the  field  immediately  with  a  Cossack  detach- 
ment and  600  Kirghizes  against  Kutebar,  and 
to  endeavour  to  capture  him.  This  expedition  ter- 
minated very  unfortunately. 

The  Sultan-ruler,  starting  on  the  7th  July,  had 
hardly  proceeded  140  versts  from  Fort  Orsk,  when 
his  camp  was  attacked  by  Kutebar's  force,  nmnber- 
ing  1500  men.  The  900  Kirghizes  who  accom- 
panied the  Sultan,  took  to  flight,  and  he,  with 
several  other  Horde  dignitaries,  were  killed  in  the 
conflict.  Having  pillaged  the  camp,  the  rebels  re- 
treated with  their  booty,  and  the  Cossacks,  seventy- 
five  in  immber,  fell  back  to  the  line,  takuig  with 
them  their  killed  and  wounded. 

Kutebar's  audacity  could  not  be  allowed  to  re- 
main uni)unished,  more  especially  as  encouraged 
by  his  late  success,  he  had  commenced  to  oppress 
tlie  Kirghizes,  and  issued  a  religious  proclamation 
inciting  to  a  general  rising  against  the  Russians. 

Although  the  pursuit  of  the  Kirghiz  hands  was, 


Engagement  with  Iset  Kutebar.  377 

in  siunmer,  ■  attended  with  extreme  difficulty,  it 
would  have  been  inexpedient  to  have  abandoned 
the  pursuit  of  Kutebar.  '  Perovski,  therefore, 
without  loss  of  time,  despatched  from  Orsk,  Oren- 
burg, and  the  Lower  Uralsk  Steppe,  600  Cossacks 
of  the  Orenburg  corps,  300  men  of  the  Uralsk  and 
Bashkir  regiments,  two  field-guns,  and  fifty  men  of 
the  Orenburg  battalion  of  the  line.  The  command 
of  the  whole  detachment  was  entrusted  to  Lieute- 
nant-Colonel Kuzminski. 

Besides  this  force,  the  commander  of  Fort 
Uralsk  received  orders  to  act  with  the  Cossacks  at 
his  disposal  from  the  side  of  the  Mugodjar  hills,  on 
the  flank  and  in  the  rear  of  the  rebels.  A  reserve, 
consisting  of  a  regiment  of  Bashkirs,  800  strong, 
was  also  stationed  in  the  fortress  of  Orsk. 

In  this  manner,  Iset  Kutebar  was  apparently 
surrounded  on  all  sides.  On  the  3rd  August 
Kuzminski  came  up  with  Kutebar's  band,  number- 
ing 2000  men,  near  the  Kum-Cheargan  sands,  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Temir  and  Emba,  360  versts 
from  the  line.  The  robbers  being  out  of  gun-shot, 
had  time  to  disperse  in  all  directions.  The  horse- 
men sent  in  pursuit  succeeded  in  killing  only  a  few 
men,  and  seizing  600  head  of  cattle  and  horses. 
The  greater  portion    of  Kutebar's  force  had  taken 

('  c 


37S  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

the  alarm  a  short  time  before,  and  sought  safety  in 
the  Great  Barsuki  sands,  or  fled  in  the  direction  of 
the  Ust-Urt. 

Kuzminski  now  divided  his  detachment  into 
several  parts,  and  despatched  them  towards  these 
localities,  while  another  flying  column  was  to  co- 
operate from  Fort  Aralsk. 

Kutebar's  band,  after  its  dispersion,  continued 
its  depredations,  principally  on  the  caravan  route, 
flying  from  place  to  place  with  great  rapidity.  To 
render  the  Russian  communications  secure,  as  well 
as  for  the  further  pursuit  of  the  marauders,  it  was 
absolutely  necessary  to  leave  the  troops  in  the 
Steppe  imtil  late  in  the  autumn,  or  until  the  cap- 
ture of  the  rebel  ringleaders  and  their  auls  had 
been  effected.  A  last  alternative  remained,  which 
was  to  keep  a  force  in  readiness  during  the  whole 
winter,  feeding  the  horses  on  dry  fodder,  and  to  re- 
new the  pursuit  early  in  March  when  the  steeds  of 
the  Kirghizes  would  be  weakened  from  the  scarcity 
of  provender. 

When  it  was  ascertained  that  the  marauding 
Kirghizes  were  seeking  temporary  refuge  in  the 
Ust-Urt,  three  detachments  were  sent  to  surround 
them  there,  and  it  was  thought  that  they  would  be 
soon  forced  to  surrender  on  account  of  the  scarcity 


The  Cossacks  Defeated  hy  Iset  Kutebar .     379 

of  forage  and  food.  In  spite,  however,  of  all  these 
arrangements,  this  expedition,  like  the  previous  one, 
terminated  unsuccessfully. 

Although  one  of  Kuzminski's  detachments 
devastated  146  rebellious  aiils,  the  success  was 
counterbalanced  by  a  disaster  in  another  quarter. 
A  party  of  fifteen  Cossacks  and  seven  Kirghizes  with 
the  Sultan  Tungachin,  who  had  been  sent  to  the 
Emba  for  a  supply  of  forage  provisions,  were 
surrounded  on  the  Temir  by  a  body  of  500 
Kirghizes.  The  Cossacks,  dismounting  g,nd  making 
their  camels  kneel  down,  fired  from  behind  them 
at  their  assailants ;  the  Kirghizes,  however,  retir- 
ing to  a  distance  of  160  fathoms,  opened  fire  from 
their  long  rifles.  Their  shots  did  more  execution 
than  those  of  the  Russians,  who  had  only  their 
carbines.  The  fusilade  was  kept  up  for  four  hours, 
by  which  time  all  the  Cossacks  were  either  kiUed 
or  wounded,  Tungachin  being  among  the  former. 
When  the  fire  of  the  Russians  ceased,  the  Kirghizes 
fell  on  the  wounded,  and  kiUed  them  with  their 
spears ;  one  Cossack  alone  remained  alive,  having 
concealed  himself  among  the  slain.  But  he  was 
soon  discovered  by  the  Kirghizes,  and  though 
already  wounded  in  two  places,  received  five  spear 
thrusts,  and  was  then  led  away  prisoner.     Taking 

c  0  2 


380  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

advantage  of  the  darkness  of  the  night,  the  Cossack 
made  his  escape  on  horseback,  and  reached  Kuz- 
minski's  detachment  on  the  fom-th  day  in  a  miser- 
able condition. 

Frost  and  bad  weather  having  now  set  in,  all 
further  operations  were  necessarily  suspended,  and 
the  troops  retired  to  the  line.  Three  hundred 
Orenburg  Cossacks  were  left  through  the  winter 
with  instructions  to  strengthen  the  defences  of  Port 
Aralsk  :  and,  if  necessary,  to  march  into  the  Steppe 
early  in  th§  spring. 

This  year's  expedition  against  Kutebar  was 
very  fatiguing  for  the  troops.  The  detachment 
had  been  got  ready  somewhat  too  expeditiously,  and 
started  with  light  equipments ;  during  three 
months  and  a  half  each  soldier  had  marched  2400 
versts  over  very  arid  and  inhospitable  Steppes, 
and  suffered  great  privations  in  the  scorching  heat 
of  the  summer  and  the  early  frosts  in  October. 

It  cannot  be  said  that  the  expedition  was 
altogether  unproductive  of  good  results,  but  its 
principal  object  was  not  attained.  Iset  Kutebar 
was  still  at  large,  but  the  rebellious  Khghizes 
were  severely  punished ;  many  of  them  perished  in 
the  pursuit,  a  great  quantity  of  their  cattle  was 
seized  by  the  Russians,  and  Iset  Kutebar,  though 


Renewed  Pursuit  of  Iset  Kutebar.         381 

left  with  the  greater  part  of  his  followers,  who, 
however,  had  become  impoverished  and  discon- 
tented, fled  by  all  accounts  to  the  South- Western 
part  of  the  Ust-Urt,  to  the  Turkmen.  His  influ- 
ence among  the  Kirghizes  now  gradually  diminished. 
In  this  state  affairs  remained  until  the  summer  of 
1856.'  In  the  month  of  June,  although  every- 
thing was  quiet  in  the  Steppe,  PeroVski,  in  an- 
ticipation of  new  attempts  on  the  part  of  Iset, 
despatched  a  force  of  300  Orenburg  Cossacks  and 
one  gun,  in  search  of  him,  under  the  command  of 
Lieutenant  Colonel  Plotnikof.  This  officer  was  to 
act  in  conjunction  with  Bai-Muhamed,  Sultan  of 
the  middle  division  of  the  Horde.  In  the  begin- 
ning of  August,  Colonel  Plotnikof  having  ascer- 
tained that  Kutebar  lay  encamped  near  the  As- 
mantai-Matai  sands,  350  versts  from  the  Emba, 
proceeded  to  the  Ust-Urt.  After  traversing  160 
versts,  he  left  his  heavy  baggage  under  the  pro- 
tection of  200  Cossacks  and  Kirghizes,  and 
advanced  by  forced  marches  to  the  Matai  sands, 
with  .the  intention  of  cutting  off  Kutebar's  progress 
to  the  shores  of  the  Caspian,  where  he  would  have 
found  good  pasture.  The  movement  of  troops  in 
the  open  Steppe  being  difiicult  to  conceal,  and  as  the 
mutinous  Kirghizes  exercised  great  vigilance,  they 


382  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

hastily  fled  to  the  desert  shores  of  the  Sea  of  Aral, 
on  hearing  of  the  advance  of  the  Russian  corps. 
The  detachment  pursued  them  diligently  for  five 
days,  marching  over  200  versts  during  the 
last  two  days,  at  a  temperature  of  35°  Fahrenheit 
in  the  day,  and  20°  degrees  at  night.  Further 
pursuit  was  now  found  impossible,  as  the  fugitives 
filled  up  and  polluted  the  wells  in  their  flight. 

In  spite,  however,  of  these  unfavourable  circum- 
stances, Plotnikof  succeeded  by  the  rapidity  of  his 
advance  in  overtaking  a  part  of  the  Kirghizes,  and 
in  captming  several  relatives  of  Iset,  who  had  been 
participators  in  the  destruction  of  the  Sultan 
Araslan-Djantiirin,  eighteen  months  previous ;  he 
also  wrested  from  them  about  900  head  of  cattle. 
Two  of  the  captured  Kirghizes  fomad  guilty  of  the 
niiu-der  were  condemned  to  death,  and  handed 
over  to  the  Provost- ^Marshal.  The  sentence,  after 
receiving  the  confirmation  of  Perovski,  was  carried 
into  eff'ect  at  Fort  Aralsk,  in  the  presence  of  a 
large  number  of  Kii'ghizes  and  their  elders,  who 
had  been  siimmoned  to  witness  the  execution. 

During  the  whole  of  the  summer  of  this  year 
the  tranquillity  of  the  Steppe  was  not  disturbed 
and  the  post  not  once  robbed,  as  liad  been  so  fre- 
quently the  case  in  previous  years. 


Death  of  Perovski.  383 

Unfortunately,  at  this  juncture,  Perovski's  death 
occurred,  Kutebar  remaining  still  unsubdued. 

In  May,  1857,  a  force  consisting  of  300  Cos- 
sacks, under  Lieutenant -Colonel  Plotnikof,  was 
again  sent  in  pursuit  of  Kutebar,  who  .was  then 
camping  on  the  Ust-Urt,  near  Asmantai-Matai. 

Once  more,  Kutebar  succeeded  in  escaping 
through  the  barren  localities  of  the  Ust-Urt,  along 
the  Western  shore  of  the  Sea  of  Aral,  towards  the 
Khivan  town  of  Kungrad.  Plotnikof  sent  a  small 
party  in  that  direction,  but  it  was  obliged  to 
return,  finding  the  wells  choked  up  or  rendered 
useless.  Seeing  that  it  was  impossible  to  prose- 
cute the  search  after  Kutebar,  owing  to  the 
scarcity  of  water  and  forage,  and  having  already 
lost  several  horses  by  fatigue  and  want  of  pro- 
vender, Plotnikof  returned  to  the  Little  Barsuki 
sands. 

Plotnikofs  corps  had  but  shortly  left  the  Ust- 
Urt,  when  Iset,  who  had  been  driven  into  the 
waterless  Steppe  on  the  Western  coast  of  the 
Sea  of  Aral,  again  returned  with  his  atds  to 
Asmantai.  But  as  he  had  previously  destroyed 
the  wells  in  these  parts,  he  was  forced  by  necessity 
to  pitch  his  tents  a  short  distance  from  a  Russian 
detachment,  300  strong,  under  Lieutenant-Colonel 


3S4  Travels  in  Central  ^h 


</a. 


Borodin,  near  the  former  Emba  Fort.  Borodin, 
without  loss  of  time,  descended  the  Emba,  and 
then,  entering  the  Ust-Urt,  surprised  Kutebar's 
auls  on  the  11th  of  September.  About  600  head 
of  cattle  were  seized,  but  Iset  again  effected  his 
escape  with  several  companions.  In  order  to  pre- 
vent Kutebar  from  returning  again  to  Asmantai, 
and  to  ensure  the  safety  of  the  scientific  expedition, 
already  mentioned  as  proceeding  to  the  Syr-Daria 
with  Mr.  Severtsof,  Plotnikof's  detachment  again 
entered  the  Ust-Urt,  where  it  remained  for  seven- 
teen days  ;  after  which,  on  the  1 7th  of  October,  it 
went  into  winter  quarters  at  Fort  Orsk. 

Katenin,  who  succeeded  Perovski,  seeing  the 
difficulty  and  almost  impossibility  of  capturing 
Kutebar  on  the  Ust-Urt  by  Russian  detachments, 
considered  it  expedient  to  gain  the  rebeUious 
chief  over  by  conciliatory  measures  and  promises 
of  forgiveness  in  the  event  of  his  complete  sub- 
mission to  Russia.  Katenin  at  the  same  time 
proclaimed  a  pardon  for  all  who  had  taken  part  in 
the  marauding  expeditions  of  Djan-Hodja.  This 
measure  proved  successful,  as  during  the  summer 
the  former  followers  of  Djan-Hodja  encamped  in 
small  "  aiils"  on  the  Syr-Daria,  and  testified  their 
submission.      In   the    following    year    they   were 


A  Garrison  stationed  at  Fort  Hodja-Nias.  385 

followed  by  Kutebar  himself,  who  appeared  with 
declarations  of  repentance  during  the  journey  of 
Katenin  to  the  Steppe. 

In  describing  Kutebar's  exploits,  we  have  had  to 
skip  Perovski's  last  exploit — ^the  attempt,  namely,  to 
establish  himself  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Syr-Daria, 
on  its  arm  known  as  the  Kuvan-Daria.  This 
omission  we  now  proceed  to  rectify. 

On  this  Kuvan  channel,  westward  of  Fort 
Perovski,  and  85  versts  to  the  South-west  of  the 
Russian  Port  No.  2,  stood  the  Khivan  Port  of  Hodja- 
Nias,  erected  in  1846.  This  was  the  most  distant 
fortified  point  on  the  Northern  frontier  of  Khiva, 
and  served  as  a  barrier  against  the  Russians  and 
Kokanians.  But  this  point  was  not  of  such  great 
importance  to  Khiva  in  political  as  in  financial 
respects.  It  was  passed  by  all  the  Bokharian  cara- 
vans proceeding  to  and  from  Russia,  and  consider- 
able transit  dues  were  annually  collected  at  it  by 
the  Khivan  Government.  Por  this  purpose,  as  well 
as  for  collecting  tribute  from  the  neighboiu-ing 
Kirghizes,  a  garrison  of  never  fewer  than  100 
men  was  maintained  at  Hodja-Nias,  and  the 
fort  was  also  provided  with  several  pieces  of 
ordnance.  Its  first  governor  was  Hodja-Nias,  after 
whom  the  fort  was  called,   Irdjan,  his  son,  sue- 


386  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

ceeding  his  father  in  command  of  it  on  the  death 
of  the  latter. 

In  1856,  Irdjan,  on  receipt  of  some  important  mes- 
sage from  Khiva,  hastily  marched  thither  with  forty 
men  of  his  garrison.  The  Kirghizes  who  camped 
in  those  parts,  and  had  long  been  dissatisfied  with 
the  Khivan  administration,  expelled  the  officer  left 
in  charge  of  the  fort,  plundered  the  Khivan  pro- 
perty, spiked  and  dismounted  the  guns,  and 
hacked  the  carriages  to  pieces. 

The  inxmediate  consequence  of  this  event  to  the 
Russians  was  an  increase  of  robberies  and  larcenies 
committed  by  the  Hodja-Nias  Kirghizes,  who  had 
hitherto  been  kept  in  check  by  the  Khivan  autho- 
rities of  the  fort.  To  prevent  increasing  disorders 
it  was  deemed  necessary  to  despatch  a  small  force 
towards  Hodja-Nias.  Had  the  Russians  not 
taken  steps  to  occupy  the  fort  it  would  have 
been  seized  either  by  the  Kokanians  or  Bokha- 
rians. 

Great  disorder  prevailed  at  this  time  in  the 
Bokharian  territory,  as  several  Khans  were  con- 
tending for  the  supreme  power.  Tired  at  last  by 
these  dissensions,  the  Khivans  and  Karakalpaks  had, 
it  Avas  said,  desired  the  Emir  of  Bokhara  to  take 
tliem  under  his  protection.     This  would  have  com- 


The  Russian  Claim  to  Fort  Hodja-Nias.    387 

plicated  the  relations  of  Russia  with  Bokhara,  and 
frequent  and  serious  collisions  must  have  ensued. 
Immediately  southward  of  the  small  ruined  fort  in 
the  direction  of  Khiva  and  Bokhara,  stretches  for 
several  hundred  versts  an  arid  waste  of  sands, 
which  cannot  be  traversed  by  large  detachments  of 
troops,  so  that  this  uninhabited  desert  was  consi- 
dered to  form  a  most  convenient  and  safe  boundary 
for  Russia  on  the  side  of  the  Bokarian  and  Khivan 
territories. 

Up  to  that  time  it  was  generally  considered  that 
Hodja-Nias  belonged  unconditionally  to  Khiva. 
This  opinion,  however,  was  merely  founded  on  the 
fact  of  possession,  for  from  inquiries  made  on  the 
«pot,  when  it  was  proposed  to  effect  a  temporary 
occupation  of  the  fort  by  a  Russian  force,  it  was 
ascertained  that  the  Kokanians  never  recognized 
as  of  right  the  occupation  of  Hodja-Nias  claimed 
by  Khiva,  and  had  during  the  ten  years'  existence 
of  the  fort  twice  taken  it  and  expelled  the  Khivan 
garrison.  After  the  last  expulsion,  the  Khivans 
had  paid  the  Kokan  Beg  of  Ak-Mechet  a  large 
quantity  of  cattle  for  permitting  them  to  return. 
The  occupation  of  Hodja-Nias  by  the  Khivans  was 
therefore  only  tolerated  by  the  Kokanians.  The 
Russians  being  the  successors  of  the  latter  in  these 


388  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

parts,  and  putting  aside  their  other  ancient  rights  to 
the  whole  extent  of  country  roamed  over  by  the 
Kirghizes  of  the  Little  Horde,  were  quite  justified 
in  claiming  the  Hodja-Nias  district  as  their  own. 
Other  reasons,  however,  deterred  the  Russians 
from  taking  possession  of  this  point  for  the 
present. 

From  the  observations  made  by  the  detachment 
sent  to  Hodja-Nias,  it  was  ascertained  that  the  mud 
walls  of  the  fort,  as  well  as  the  wooden  dwellings 
inside  of  it,  had  been  destroyed  and  burned  by  the 
Kirghizes.  To  repair  them  was  impossible,  and  it 
was  consequently  necessary  to  construct  them  anew. 
The  situation  of  Hodja-Nias,  and  the  sterility  of  the 
surrounding  country,  afforded  no  facility  for  main- 
taining a  garrison  in  it.  The  fort  stood  in  the 
middle  of  morasses,  formed  by  the  streams  of  the 
Kuvan-Daria.  Presh  water  could  only  be  procured 
at  a  distance  of  two  versts,  and  fuel  was  scarce. 
There  M'as  likewise  insufficient  pastm'age,  and  the 
communication  with  Fort  Perovski — inconvenient  at 
all  times  of  the  year,  on  account  of  the  various 
canals — is  rendered  still  more  difficult  at  full  water, 
so  that  a  regular  supply  of  provisions  could  not  be 
depended  upon.  The  detachment  sent  for  the  pre- 
liminary occupation  of  the  fort  turned  back  after 
destroying  the  remaining  works. 


Reprisals  of  the  Kokanians.  389 

Perovski's  active  service  in  the  Orenburg  region 
terminated  with  this  attempt. 

On  his  death,  Katenin — who  was  appointed  his 
successor — drew  up,  in  1859,  a  ,"  Memoir  on  the 
Policy  of  Russia  in  the  Orenburg  Region." 
Among  other  things,  he  deemed  it  necessary  to 
take  possession  of  the  small  Kokanian  fortress  of 
Djiilek,  in  order  strategeticaUy  to  secure  Fort 
Perovski.  This  was  not  effected  by  him,  owing  to 
his  death,  which  occurred  soon  "after;  but  was 
carried  into  execution  by  the  present  Governor- Ge- 
neral of  Orenburg  (Lieut.-General  Bezac),  who  was 
also  ordered  to  demolish  the  Kokanian  fortifications 
of  Yany-Kurgan,  near  Djulek. 

A  detachment  was  sent  "in  April,  1861,  for  the 
fortification  of  Djulek ;  and  all  the  works,  together 
with  dwelling-houses  for  the  garrison,  were  com- 
pleted by  the  month  of  October  of  the  same  year. 
A  detachment  was  likewise  despatched  to  Yany- 
Kurgan,  which  was  demolished  after  a  cannonade 
of  twenty-three  hours. 

The  Kokanians,  in  revenge  for  the  destruction  of 
Yany-Kurgan,  yet  at  the  same  time  afraid  to  attack 
the  Russian  forts,  commenced  pillaging  the  Kir- 
ghizes under  Russian  protection ;  but  a  company 
of  soldiers  sent  against  them  from  Port  Perovski, 


390  Travels  in  Crntrnl  Asia. 

compelled  them  to  retreat  to  Turkestan.  Accord- 
ing to  the  most  recent  accounts,  the  Kokanians  had 
commenced  the  erection  of  a  new  fort  in  the  place 
of  Yany-Kurgan,  to  defend  Turkestan.  The 
Russian  forts  now  existing  on  the  Syr-Daria  are  : 
Fort  No.  1,  Port  No.  2,  and  Forts  Perovski  and 
Djulek. 

It  cannot  be  said  that  the  present  condition  of 
the  Syr-Daria  line  is  all  that  is  to  be  desired. 
There  is  still  much  to  be  done  in  strengthening  and 
improving  it.  When  first  organized,  the  objects  in 
view  were — first,  that  it  should  ser\e  as  a  line  of 
defence  against  the  plundering  inroads  of  the 
Central  Asiatics  ;  and  secondly,  to  protect  the 
Russian  trade  with  the  Khanats. 

It  must  be  acknowledged  that  neither  of  these 
objects  has  as  yet  been  fully  attained. 

The  Russian  forts,  as  at  present  constituted,  are 
not  capable  of  defending  the  country  against  hostile 
incursions.  Although  their  own  independence  and 
safety  are  guaranteed,  even  in  case  of  an  attack  by 
a  numerous  Khivan  or  Kokanian  force,  yet  they 
are  not  strong  enough  to  prevent  the  musterings  of 
predatory  hordes,  to  defend  the  Russian  Kirghizes 
and  caravans  from  plunder  and  oppression,  and  to 
check  the  temerity  of  individual  marauders,  by  in- 
spiring fear  of  instant  and  condign  punishment. 


Insecurity  of  Commercial  Relations.        391 

In  the  intermediate  space  between  the  left  flank 
fort,  and  the  advanced  Siberian  fortified  points 
along  the  Sara-Su,  the  independent  Kirghizes  can 
easily  break  into  the  Siberian  and  Orenburg 
Steppes,  and  despoil  the  Russian  Kirghizes. 

The  commercial  relations  of  Russia  with  Khiva 
and  Bokhara  are  far  from  being  rendered  secure 
by  the  forts  along  the  Syr-Daria  line.  All  the  as- 
sistance that  they  afi'ord  the  caravans  consists  in  se- 
curing their  passage  in  a  few  shallops  over  the  Syr- 
Daria  ;  but  it  is  not  in  their  power  to  escort  and 
defend  them  on  the  route.  The  ruler  of  Tashkend 
requires  the  Bokharian  caravans  to  pass  through 
Tashkend,  imposing  a  high  rate  of  duty  on  the 
goods,  and  in  case  payinent  is  refused,  "  extorts  a 
benevolence"  from  them  with  impunity. 

The  communication  with  the  Syr-Daria  and 
Orenburg  lines,  between  the  fortress  of  Orsk  and  the 
Aralsk  fortification,  is  facilitated  by  the  establish- 
ment of  Kirghiz  post-stations,  but  between  the  Aralsk 
fortification  and  the  Sjr-Daria  line  occurs  the 
most  barren  part  of  the  Steppe,  where  water  is 
only  to  be  procured  by  digging.  The  organiza- 
tion of  regular  conxtnunication  through  the 
Kara-Kum  sands  presents  great  obstacles,  as 
the  scanty  herbage  in  these  parts  will  never  admit 


392  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

of  horses  being  kept  at  the  post-stations.     Camels 

may  possibly  be  used  for  this  purpose,  by  means 

of    which   intelligence   will   be  regularly   though 

slowly  transmitted. 

The      commissariat     arrangements      for       the 

troops    forming   the    garrisons    of    the   forts   are 

attended   with     great     difficulty,    and    residt    at 

times    in    serious   irregularities.      The    chai"aeter 

of    the    country    occupied    by   the    forts    of    the 

...      ^ 
Syr-Daria  line,   does  not  afford  any  facilities  for 

sui)plying     the     troops     b}-    local     means    with 

even    the    simplest    requirements     in     the    way 

of  provisions.     Though  the   Kirghizes  turn  their 

attention  to  agriculture,  they  confine  themselves 

to  raising  small  crops  of  millet   and   barley   for 

their  own  sole  consmuption.     The  land  will  not  be 

cultivated  to  any  great  extent  by  the  Kughizes, 

until  they  become  convinced  that  they  can  do  so 

without  fear  of  being  plundered  by  Khivan  and 

Kokanian  robber  bands.      The   labour  attending 

the  pursuit  of  agriculture  is  very  great  in  such  a 

soil,  the  fields   requuing  constant  irrigation.     A 

considerable  quantity  of  vegetables  is  grown    for 

winter  consumption  in  kitchen-gardens  around  the 

forts,  but  they  are  often  attacked  by  swarms  of 

locusts,  which  entirely  destroy  the  vegetation   of 

the  fields  and  crardens. 


Difficulties  of  the  Commisaariat.  393 

Grass  is  mowed'  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
forts,  on  both  banks  of  the  Syr,  for  a  distance  of 
twenty-four  or  twenty-five  versts  from  the  forts. 
Tracts,  at  present  yielding  grass  of  passable  quality, 
were  found  overgrown  with  reeds  which  had  either 
to  be  cut  down  for  fuel,  or  burned  where  they 
grew.  When  the  over-flooding  of  the  Syr  is  not 
great,  a  sufficient  quantity  of  hay  is  obtained  as 
forage  for  the  horses  and  cattle ;  but  when  the 
--.water  rises  high,  the  meadow-lands  are  swamped, 
"&d  the  subsequent  crop  of  hay  is  but  small.  The 
horses  and  cattle  have  then  to  be  fed  on  corn  and 
other  grain. 

As  regards  the  requirements  of  the  officers  and 
civilians,  they  are  supplied  with  even  greater 
difficulty  than  the  soldiers,  as  they  are  not  able  to 
buy  provisions  on  the  spot  or  at  regular  prices. 
The  Russian  merchants  carry  on  a  profitable  trade 
in  cattle  with  the  Kirghizes  of  the  Syr-Daria  line, 
and  with  caravans  from  Khiva  and  Bokhara,  but 
neglect  the  retail  trade  within  the  forts.  The 
shops  of  those  traders  in  the  forts  who  are 
allowed  to  sell  goods  free  of  duty,  are  often  empty, 
and  the  wares  of  inferior  quality,  while  the  prices 
are  unreasonably  high,  notwithstanding  a  fixed 
tariff"  and  other  restrictions. 

D  D 


394  IVmels  in  Central  Asia. 

As  there  are  no  forests,  wood  caBnot  be  procured 
for  the  most  ordinary  domestic  purposes,  and  the 
material  used  locally  for  building  purposes  is  clay. 
Every  thing,  even  the  most  trifling  articles,  are 
obliged  to  be  brought  from  the  Orenburg 
line. 

The  cost  of  transporting  goods  from  Orenburg 
to  the  Syr-Daria  line  is  augmenting  with  each 
year,  and  this  increase  is  owing  to  three  causes ; 
to  the  rise  in  the  price  of  cattle,  which  are  exclu- 
sively used  in  the  carriage  of  goods ;  secondly, 
to  the  difficulties  attending  the  transit  over  the 
barren  sands  ;  and  thirdly,  from  the  scarcity  of 
provender  in  the  Kara-Kum  sands,  and  particularly 
on  the  transport  road  between  Ports  No.  \  and 
Perovski.  But  in  addition  to  these  drawbacks, 
the  increase  in  the  cost  of  transport  is  likewise 
attributable  to  the  carriers,  who,  seeing  that  the 
Russian  Government  have  no  means  of  conveying 
supplies  along  the  line,  and  between  Fort  No.  1, 
and  Fort  Perovski,  dictate  their  own  terms.* 

Communication  between  the  forts  is  kept  up 
by  Kirghiz  postillions,  who  are  sent  with  Govern- 
ment despatches  from  fort  to  fort,  and  so  to  the 

*  Steamors  pan  only  proceerl  up  the  river  at  full  watrr. 


Difficulties  of  Intercommunication.         395 

Orenbiirg  line.  The  road,  which  is  traversed  by 
transports  of  goods  and  provisions,  extends  from 
Port  No.  1  to  Fort  Perovski,  along  the  right  bank 
of  the  Syr,  through  a  desert,  inhospitable  and 
partly  barren  Steppe.  When  the  inundations  of 
the  Syr  spread  to  a  great  distance,  the  journey  on 
horseback,  from  the  confluence  of  the  Djaman- 
Daria,  with  the  Kuvan-Daria,  to  Fort  Perovski, 
becomes  quite  impossible.  Barges  are  then  towed 
up  the  river  by  lines,  and  the  boatmen  engaged  in 
pulling  the  barges  are  sometimes  obliged  to  wade 
up  to  their  knees  and  even  waists  in  water.  This 
journey,  even  with  constant  fresh  relays  of  men, 
occupies  seventeen  hours. 

The  condition  of  the  Syr-Daria  line,  in  sanitary 
respects,  is,  on  the  whole,  satisfactory.  The  number 
of  sick  is  not  great,  which  is  mainly  owing  to  the 
salubrity  of  the  climate.  According  to  the  accounts 
of  local  medical  men,  the  immoderate  use  of  fruit 
and  raw  vegetables  is  not,  as  in  most  other  coun- 
tries, attended  with  intestinal  disorders;  all  wounds, 
moreover,  heal  rapidly,  and  diseases  but  rarely 
assume  a  virulent  form. 

The  gadflies  and  gnats,  which  abound  in  such 
multitudes  as  to  become  a  positive  plague,  must 
not  be  omitted  in  describing  this  region.      The 

D  D  2 


396  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

Kirghizes  and  Cossacks  always  cover  their  horses, 
when  riding,  with  horse-cloths,  from  the  feet  to 
the  tails,  and  with  rugs  under  the  stomach.  When 
this  precaution  is  not  taken,  the  horses  lie  down 
under  their  riders,  and  refuse  to  move.  The 
horned  cattle  and  Cossack  horses,  as  also  the 
camels,  which  are  in  excellent  condition  in  spring, 
become  absolutely  emaciated  fi'om  the  irritation 
and  physical  exhaustion  caused  by  the  stings  of 
the  gnats  and  flies,  and  die  in  scores.  The 
Kirghizes,  who  camp  along  the  banks  of  the 
Syr -D  aria  in  summer,  leave  only  a  small  quantity 
of  cattle  here  for  agricultm'al  pm'poses,  and  drive 
away  the  rest,  for  the  summer,  to  the  Kara-Kum. 
On  this  accoxmt  carriers  are,  dvu-ing  the  summer, 
procured  with  difficulty  for  transporting  goods. 

Russia  thus  occupies  an  almost  barren  extent 
of  country  along  the  Syr-Daria,  while  between 
Djulek  and  Tort  Vernoe  extends  the  Northern 
part  of  the  Khanat  of  Kokan,  celebrated  for  its 
beautiful  climate,  fertihty  of  soil,  and  rich  tracts 
of  land. 


The  historical  and  geographical  future  of  Russia 
impels  her  farther  and  farther  towards  the  South, 
in  spite  of  all  obstacles ;    and,  yielding  to  these 


liussian  Mode  of  Extending  Territory.      397 

natural  impulses,  she  has  advanced,  on  one  side, 
from  the  Irtysh  to  the  upper  course  of  the  Syr- 
Daria,  and,  on  the  other,  from  Orenburg  to  the 
Sea  of  Aral ;  thus  incorporating  within  her  boun- 
daries the  greater  portion  of  the  Steppes  dividing 
Europe  from  Asia  Proper. 

Similar  extensions  of  Russian  frontier  have 
always  been  effected  in  the  same  order,  by  the 
same  laws,  and  have  invariably  led  to  the  same 
results.  The  pioneers  of  each  onward  movement 
were  the  Cossacks,  who  Avere  followed  by  fixed 
settlers  and  agriculturists,  with  their  families  and 
farming  stock ;  and  it  was  in  this  way  that,  in 
some  distant  and  desert  region,  as  on  the  Don  and 
Ural  in  former  years,  and  on  the  Amur  and  Syr- 
Daria  in  the  present  day,  Russian  civilization 
sprang  up,  and  Russian  settlements  were  planted, 
forming  germs  for  future  colonies.  A  necessity 
then  arose  for  connecting  these  settlements  firmly 
together,  and  with  this  object  roads  were  con- 
structed, stations  erected,  steamers  introduced,  as 
on  the  Amur  and  Syr-Daria,  and  even  telegraphic 
lines  established,  as  at  present  from  the  Chinese 
frontier  to  St.  Petersburg. 

From  Orenburg  to  the  Lower  Syr-Daria  there 
exists  a  road  along  which  the  post  travels,  and  by 


398  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

which  goods  can  be  conveyed  in  carts.  Such 
important  and  extensive  political  interests  are 
concentrated  on  the  rivers  Syr  and  Amu-Darias, 
that  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  direct  attention 
to  the  development  and  improvement  of  the  routes 
to  these  extreme  points  of  Russian  territory,  and 
more  especially  to  the  establishment  of  a  line  of 
telegraph.  Should  a  line  from  Orenburg  to  the 
Syr-Daria  ever  be  organized,  the  following  antago- 
nistic systems  are  observable,  on  glancing  at  the 
various  telegraphic  maps; — On  one  side  the  widely- 
spread  net  of  Russian  telegraphs,  connected  with 
the  whole  of  Europe  and  converging  on  the  Sea 
of  Aral ;  on  the  other,  the  network  of  English 
wires,  extending  o^er  the  whole  continent  of 
India,  and  terminating,  for  the  present  at  least, 
at  Peshawur.  These  two  extreme  points  of  English 
and  Russian  telegraph  lines  are  separated  by  a 
gap  of  country,  the  greater  part  of  which  is  occu- 
pied by  the  com-se  of  the  Amu-Daria.  This 
intervening  space  can,  of  course,  be  cleared,  par- 
ticularly by  the  known  energy  of  the  English ;  but 
here  arises  the  great  political  question — Who  is  to 
supply  the  existing  break,  Russia  or  England  ? 

The  establishment  of  telegraphic  communication 
with    India  is    at  tlie    present    day    a    question  of 


Importance  of  the  Telegraph  Question.      399 

primary  importance  both  for  English  supremacy 
in  India,  and  particularly  for  British  trade.  The 
expense  of  such  an  undertaking  will  not  prove  an 
obstacle  for  its  realization  ;  .we  have  seen  an  Eng- 
lish company  sacrifice  nearly  a  million  pounds 
sterhng  on  the  Trans- Atlantic  cable,  and  feel  con- 
vinced that  it  would  not  hesitate  to  lay  out  as 
much  again  if  there  were  any  possibility  of  bringing 
the  scheme  to  a  successful  issue.  If  the  English, 
therefore,  were  made  acquainted  with  the  details 
proving  the  feasibility  of  establishing  telegraphic 
communication  with  East  India  through  Orenburg 
and  the  Sea  of  Aral,  they  would  most  assuredly 
organize  a  company  without  loss  of  time  for  realiz- 
ing the  project,  regardless  of  all  its  difficulties. 
But  would  such  interference  and  mediatorship  on 
the  part  of  the  English  in  regions  where  the  in- 
fluence of  Russia  is  still  weak,  be  consistent  with 
the  dignity  and  political  views  of  Russia  ? 

The  coimtry  as  far  as  the  Syr-Daria  and  Sea  of 
Aral,  belongs  ipso  facto  to  Russia,  so  that  every 
means  of  communication  can  be  freely  introduced  in 
it,  and  a  telegraph  is  certain  to  be  shortly  estab- 
lished in  these  parts.  Farther  Southward,  Russia 
occupies  the  mouth  of  the  Amu-Daria,  and  Russian 
steamers  have  already  ascended  this  river.     Where 


400  Traveh  in  Central  Asia. 

is  the  limit  to  which  these  steamers  \\'ill  be  con- 
fined? Burnes,  who  descended  the  Amu-Daria, 
estimated  its  navigable  length  at  2000  versts.  It 
is  hardly  probable  that  the  Russian  settlements 
destined  before  long  to  be  perrnanently  established 
on  the  Lower  Syr-Daria  will  always  be  confined  to 
that  part  of  its  course,  or  that  the  steamers  stationed 
at  its  mouth  ^vill  never  be  permitted  to  penetrate 
farther  up  stream.  A  similar  prohibition  Avould 
be  contrary  to  the  natural  order  of  things,  and 
M'ould  indeed  be  practically  disregarded.  An  in- 
stance of  this  is  seen  on  the  Amur,  which  was 
secured  by  treaties  and  government  restrictions,  in 
spite  of  all  which  we  have  seen  that  Russian 
settlers  in  the  Trans-Baikal  region  penetrated  uito 
the  Amur  country  during  the  past  hundred  years, 
and  traded  and  hunted  in  it. 

Judging,  therefore,  by  historical  precedents,  one 
cannot  but  forsee  that  the  occupation  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Amu-Daria  will  necessarily  be  followed  by 
the  appropriation  of  the  A\hole  ri\er.  The  Russian 
Government  may  probably  not  have  this  in  view, 
and  -will  in  all  likelihood  oppose  the  encroachment, 
but  nevertheless,  sooner  or  later,  it  will  come  to 
pass  of  itself.  Officially  the  boundary  of  Russia 
Avill  remain  unchanged  ;  practically,  howe\'er,  Rus- 


Involuntary  Aniwxatlon  hy  Russia.         401 

sian  emigrants  will  ascend  the  river  higher  and 
higher  by  degrees  ;  they  Avill  at  first  open  inter- 
course with  Khiva,  the  nearest  Khanat,  and  even- 
tually make  their  way  to  Bokhara.  Examples 
of  this  are  afibrded  by  the  Amur  and  Syr-Daria. 
Only  the  embouchures  of  these  rivers  were  at  first 
occupied,  and  strict  orders  given  agamst  advancing 
up  the  country ;  in  the  lapse  of  two  or  three  years, 
however,  at  most  ten  or  twelve,  we  find  Russian 
military  posts  already  stationed  several  hundred 
versts  above  the  mouths,  and  the  parts  of  the  Amur 
and  Syr-Daria  thus  occupied  beginning  to  be  re- 
cognized as  Russian  territory.  In  a  few  yeai's 
more,  Russian  settlements  had  not  only  spread 
along  the  whole  course  of  the  Amur,  but  had  oc- 
cupied its  source ;  the  Ussuri,  or  Russian  military 
posts,  had  encircled  the  whole  sea  coast  from  the 
Amur  to  the  Corea,  and  Russian  traders  com- 
menced ascending  the  Dzungari,  which  will  by  the 
same  historical  sequence  lead  them  to  the  river 
Leo,  and  along  it  to  the  shores  of  the  Gulf  of 
Petcheli.  The  same  order  of  events  is  observed  on  the 
Syr-Daria,  of  which  the  lower  com-se  alone  is  held 
by  Russia ;  yet  this  river  must  now  be  considered 
more  Russian  than  Kokanian,  more  especially  as  the 
necessity  of  possessing  it  for  the  whole  extent  of 


402  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

its  course  is  year  after  year  more    urgently   and 
clearly  felt. 

The  Amu-Daria  is,  for  many  reasons,  of  greater 
importance  to  Russia  than  even  the  Syr-Daria.  It 
disembogued  at  one  period  into  the  Caspian,  and 
its  bed  to  that  sea  stUl  remains.  Some  are  of 
opinion  that  the  course  of  the  river  can  be  again 
directed  to  its  ancient  bed,  while  others  consider  it 
impossible  to  do  so.  It  can,  however,  be  positively 
asserted  that  the  existing  information  on  this  point 
is  very  superficial  and  inaccurate,  and  the  question 
will  never  be  satisfactorily  settled,  until  a  scientific 
expedition  be  sent  by  the  Government  to  investi- 
gate it  in  all  its  bearings.  The  South-Eastern 
shores  of  the  Sea  of  Aral  are  well  adapted  for  unit- 
ing the  Syr-Daria  with  the  Amu-Daria,  and  encou- 
rage the  hope  that  the  united  mass  of  water  of 
such  two  great  streams  may  force  their  way  through 
the  old  bed  to  the  Caspian.  The  importance 
of  this  connection  will  readily  be  understood  when 
it  is  remembered  that  a  M'ater  route,  in  continuation 
of  the  Volga,  will  be  thus  created,  which  will  ex- 
tend for  3000  versts  into  the  interior  of  Asia,  and 
that  the  extreme  points  of  this  uninterrupted 
water-way  will  be  St.  Petersbiu'g  and  the  Northern 
slopes  of  the  Hindoo  Koosh. 


Communication  between  Russia  and  India.  403 

There  is  an  idea  generally  prevalent  that  the 
Syr-Daria  will  serve  as  a  convenient  route  for  future 
communication  vsrith  British  India ;  but  the  Amu- 
Daria  presents  infinitely  greater  advantages  in  this 
respect.  Its  upper  course  runs  farther  to  the 
South  than  that  of  the  Syr-Daria — in  fact,  it 
almost  reaches  the  boundaries  of  the  EngUsh  pos- 
sessions, and  very  closely  approaches  the  Indus. 
These  tvi^o  rivers  are  divided  by  the  elevated  range 
of  the  Hindoo  Koosh,  across  which  there  are 
several  passes,  a  few  alone  of  which  have  been 
visited  by  English  travellers,  and  the  greater  part 
of  this  region  is  still  but  little  known. 

Thus  we  see  that  the  occupation  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Amu-Daria  will  inevitably  lead  to  the  navi- 
gation of  the  river  by  Russians  ;  this  wiU  require 
the  occupation  of  several  points  on  the  shores  which 
are  uninhabited,  and  only  nominally  belong  to  some 
barbarous  rulers,  and  the  establishments  of  points- 
dappui  wiU  eventually  lead  to  the  occupation 
of  the  whole  river  along  either  bank. 

An  outcry  will  be  raised  that  this  is  a  further 
increase  of  territory,  an  extension  of  Russian 
limits,  which  are  already  too  vast.  No  !  this  will 
be  no  encroachment  or  enlargement  of  Russian 
boiindaries,   but   simply  the   establishment   of   a 


404  Travels  hi  Central  Asia. 

water-way,  and  an  opening  up  of  new  markets  for 
Russian  trade  and  produce.  These  markets  are 
situated  on  the  upper  course  of  the  Amu-Daria, 
whose  mouth  is  in  the  possession  of  Russia  ;  and 
Russia  cannot,  and  must  not  relinquish  them  in 
favom-  of  England,  because  she  is  connected  with 
them  by  a  natural  water-way.  The  English  are 
rapidly  advancing  to  them,  Cabul  being  already 
virtually  in  their  hands.  With  regard  to  India, 
the  navigation  of  the  Amu-Daria  must  not  be  con- 
sidered as  a  route  for  the  conquest  of  India ;  it  is 
time  to  abandon  such  an  illusion.  But  it  will  be 
advantageous  for  Russia  to  meet  England  on  the 
Indian  frontier,  to  establish  a  direct  and  reciprocal 
trade  with  her,  and  in  case  such  a  trade  be  impos- 
sible, to  endeavour,  at  least,  to  procure  the  transit 
of  Indian  goods  to  Europe  b}^  means  of  Russian 
iron  and  water-ways.  With  respect  to  a  military 
expedition  to  India,  the  Amu-Daria  may  be  used 
for  despatching  a  small  force  to  its  upper  course, 
not  with  an  idea  of  conquest,  but  for  making  a 
demonstration  with  the  object  of  alarming  the 
enemy  and  diverting  his  attention  from  other 
points.  The  close  proximity  of  the  Anglo-Indian 
Em])ire  to  Russia  in  these  parts  need  not  be  feared, 
as  it  is  no  easy  matter  to  penetrate  to  or  from 
Russia  from  this  (juartcr. 


Where  Ein/lniid  and  Bussia  are  Conterminous.  405 

Since  the  days  of  Peter  the  Great,  Russia  has 
diligently  advanced,  and  at  great  sacrifice,  through 
the  Steppes  that  barred  her  progress ;  she  has  now 
passed  them,  and  reached  the  basins  of  two  large 
rivers — two  important  water-ways, — whose  sources 
flow  through  fertile  and  densely-populated  coun- 
tries. She  is  fully  justified  in  seeking  to  be  re- 
warded here  for  her  labours  and  losses  extending 
over  a  hundred  years,  and  in  endeavouring  to 
secure  her  frontiers  by  pushing  them  forward  to 
that  snow-capped  summit  of  the  Himalayas — the 
natural  conterminous  boundary  of  England  and 
Russia. 

Erom  this  stand-point  Russia  can  calmly  look 
on  the  consolidation  and  development  of  British 
power  in  India. 

These  considerations  lead  one  to  hope  that 
should  a  line  of  telegraph  from  Europe  to  India 
ever  pass  through  these  countries,  it  will  be  entirely 
Russian.  Erom  the  lower  course  of  the  Syr- 
Daria,  the  most  convenient  localities  for  laying  down 
a  line  of  wire  to  India,  extend  along  the  South- 
Eastern  Coast  of  the  Sea  of  Aral  up  the  Amu- 
Daria,  and  from  its  upper  sources,  by  one  of  the 
roads  leading  to  Cabul  across  the  Hindoo  Koosh. 
The  distance  in  this  direction,  between  the  extreme 


406  IVavels  in  Central  Asia. 

point  at  the  mouth  of  the  Amu-Daria  and  that  of 
the  Enghsh  at  Peshawur,  is  about  2000  versts  or 
1260  miles. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

Diplomatic  Relations  between  Bvssia  and  Bokhara. 
By  Zalesoff. 

1836-1843. 

Russia  has  always  maintained  amicable  relations 
with  Bokhara,  and  its  intercourse  with  the  Khanat 
has  been  of  long  standing. 

In  addition  to  its  political  importance,  Bokhara 
presented  great  advantages  to  Russia,  as  a  large  con- 
sumer of  Russian  productions,  and  as  a  channel 
through  which  Russian  goods  might  penetrate  into 
Afghanistan  and  India.  The  Bokharians  on  their 
side  advantageously  bartered  their  own  indifferent 
wares  for  Russian  manufactures  of  primary  neces- 
sity, which  they  were  unable  to  procure  from  other 
countries.  But  there  was  another  circumstance 
that  assisted  in  cementing  friendly  feelings  between 


408  Trafcli  in  Central  Asia. 

these  two  countries  and  served  to  smooth  many 
difficulties  and  disagreements. 

Bokhara,  unhlce  Khiva  and  Kokan,  did  not 
border  on  Russian  territory;  consequently,  there  was 
no  motive  for  those  petty  frontier  squabbles  and 
depredations  with  which  Russia  was  so  persistently 
pestered  by  the  two  last-named  Khanats.  Even 
later,  when  the  Russians  occupied  the  Syr,  and  the 
empire  came  into  close  proximity  Avith  the  States 
of  Central  Asia,  Bokhara  remained  separated  from 
it  as  heretofore  by  the  desert  sands  of  Kyzyl- 
Kum,  and  Avhile  the  wandering  tribes  subject  to 
Khiva  and  Kokan  were  committing  depredations 
on  the  Russian  boundaries,  this  Khanat  still 
preserved  a  strict  neutrality. 

The  Bokharians,  it  is  true,  could  not  completely 
renounce  their  Asiatic  habits ;  they  purchased 
Russian  prisoners  through  second  and  third  hands, 
while  their  Government  not  infrequently  sent  envoys 
to  St.  Petersburgh  with  the  sole  object  of  receiving 
})resents,  and  almost  invariably  demanded  an  extra 
rate  of  duty  from  Russian  merchants ;  but  all  these 
acts,  although  giving  rise  to  a  constant  correspond- 
ence, never  led  to  a  rupture.  The  Russians,  with 
the  ])rospect  of  extending  their  trade  to  Tiu-an, 
deemed  it  politic  to  sacrifice  a  few  individual  inte- 
rests for  this  object. 


Relations  of  Russia  with  Bokhara.         409 

With  the  extension  of  Russian  dominion  south- 
wards from  the  river  Ural,  these  old  relations 
betM'een  Russia  and  her  neighbour  acquired  a 
more  stable  character,  and  as  the  roads  were  ren- 
dered more  secure  across  the  Steppe,  a  desire 
arose  to  become  more  acquainted  with  the  Khanat 
for  commercial  and  political  purposes  :  hence  the 
frequent  visits  of  Russian  officials  and  missions  to 
Bokhara. 

The  commissioners  despatched  to  Bokhara  by 
the  Russian  Government  during  the  present  century 
were  Lieutenant  Poverdovski  in  1802,  who,  how- 
ever, did  not  reach  his  destination ;  Subhankulof, 
an  officer  of  the  Bashkir  force,  in  1809 ;  an 
embassy  under  Mr.  Negri  in  1820;  an  armed 
caravan  under  the  command  of  Colonel  Tsiolkovski 
in  1824,  and  which  did  not  reach  its  journey's  end ; 
Mr.  Demaison  in  1834  ;  and  Ensign  Vitkovitch  in 
1835. 

The  following  letter,  addressed  to  the  Emir  by 
General  Perovski,  military  governor  of  the  Orenburg 
region,  in  1836,  is  a  specimen  of  the  style  of  corre- 
spondence conducted  with  Bokhara  after  the  return 
of  Vitkovitch : — 

"To  the  expounder  of  wisdom  and  law,  the 
esteemed,    all-perfect,    glorious    and   great    Emir, 

E   E 


410  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

descendant  of  the  benignant  Hakan  ;  the  centre 
of  learning,  order  and  glory,  and  the  disseminator 
of  happiness,  we  offer  our  most  sincere  respect 
and  warmest  devotion.  May  the  all-high  and 
powerful  God  secure  you  on  the  throne  of  dominion 
and  prosperity,  shield  you  from  its  tempests,  and 
evil  destinies,  and  grant  you  a  long  life. 

"  Be  it  further  known  to  your  heart,  replete  with 
glorious  qualities,  that,  praise  be  to  the  Founder  of 
Worlds,  we  abide  in  health  and  happiness. 

"  Rumours  of  the  measm-es  taken  by  the  Russian 
Government  against  the  insolence  of  the  Khivans 
have  doubtless  long  since  reached  the  stronghold 
of  your  highly-venerated  and  mighty  Eminence. 
From  respect,  therefore,  to  our  famous  and 
gloriously  resplendent  neighbour,  I  consider  it 
necessary  to  say  as  follows  : — 

"The  Khivans  have  long  behaved  as  enemies, 
while  calling  themselves  the  friends  of  Russia. 

"  Khiva,  fi'om  its  insignificance  and  weakness, 
could  of  com-se  do  no  great  injury  to  its  powerful 
neighbour,  but  still  it  took  advantage  of  every 
opportunity  to  exhibit  its  insolence  and  senseless 
temerity  against  a  state  that  has,  until  the  present, 
ignored  the  stratagems  and  intrigues  of  a  weak  and 
powerless  neighboiir. 


Zm/  of  Grievances  at/ninsf  K/ilra.  41 1 

"  Khiva,  however,  did  not  understand  the  con- 
descension and  endurance  of  Russia,  and  instead 
of  being  penitent  and  submissive,  her  proceedhigs 
have  grovi^n  more  audacioiis  from  year  to  year. 
The  piracies  on  the  Caspian  multipHed,  under  the 
connivance  of  the  Khivan  ruler,  who  shared  the 
plunder  with  the  pirates.  The  number  of  Russian 
prisoners  in  Khiva  have  greatly  increased,  and  they 
are  treated  barbarously.  Russian  traders  dare  not 
even  now  appear  at  Khiva,  as  they  are  not  received 
with  the  customary  salaam  and  greeting,  but  with 
the  noose,  knife,  and  bonds  of  slavery.  Khiva  has 
commenced  to  collect  tribute  from  the  Kaisaks, 
our  subjects,  and  from  Russian  traders  who 
traverse  the  Steppe  ;  she  has  set  some  Khans  over 
the  Kaisaks,  who  have  long  been  subject  to  Russia, 
and  persecutes  them  at  will.  When  taking  into 
consideration  that  the  subjects  of  Khiva  have 
enjoyed  in  Russia  even  up  to  the  present  time  not 
only  all  the  advantages  of  freedom,  but  also  profited 
by  all  the  rights  and  privileges  of  free  traders, 
trading  and  departing  at  all  times  without  molesta- 
tion, it  must  be  admitted  that  the  proceedings 
of  the  Khivans  justly  merit  chastisement. 

"  The  Emperor  has  now  resolved  to  detain  all  the 
Khivans  in  Russia,  together  with  their  property, 

E  E  2 


412  Travels  in  Central  Asin. 

and  to  inform  the  ruler  of  Khiva  that  not  a  single 
person  will  be  liberated  until  all  Russians  now  in 
slavery  be  set  free  by  the  Khi\'an  Government,  and 
it  shall  have  promised  to  amend  its  conduct  for 
the  futm'e. 

"The  orders  of  the  Emperor  have  been  strictly 
fulfilled,  and  I  ha^'e  already  informed  the  ruler  of 
Khiva  of  what  had  transpired.  It  depends  now  on 
himself  to  arrange  matters  amicably,  or  bring  con- 
fusion on  his  head. 

"  In  acquainting  your  mighty  and  illustrious 
person  of  this,  I  am  convinced  that  the  columns  of 
friendship,  and  pillars  of  mutual  good-feeling  be- 
tween the  Russian  Government  and  that  of  Bokhara 
will  continue  as  formerly,  fixed  and  inomovable ;  the 
Government  of  Bokhara  will  doubtless  never  give 
Russia  similar  cause  for  discontent.  I  am  likewise 
assured  that  if  there  be  any  Russian  prisoners  at 
Bokhara,  or  such  as  have  escaped  from  Khiva, 
yom'  exalted  Mightiness  will  give  immediate  orders 
for  their  release  and  transmission  to  their  o^vn 
coTintry. 

"  To  all  this  I  have  the  pleasure  to  add,  what  will 
probably  be  pleasing  intelligence  to  your  High- 
ness, that  your  envoy  through  my  medintion  has 
been  favoured  with  a  reception  by  His  Imperial 


Bok/iarim  Embassy  0/  ]  8  3  G .  413 

Majesty,  and  that  Bokharian  merchants,  your  sub- 
jects, had  the  felicity  of  being  presented  to  the 
Emperor  on  his  passage  through  Nijni-Novgorod, 
whilst  the  Khivans,  who  were  there  at  the  same 
time,  were  not  granted  the  same  honom-." 

Such  was  the  language  of  the  chief  of  the 
Orenburg  region,  for  conciliating  the  friendship  of 
the  ruler  of  Bokhara,  who  did  not  disregard  these 
advances;  from  1836  to  1843,  Russia  was  visited 
by  three  of  the  Emir's  representatives,  and  two 
Russian  agents  were  in  their  turn  despatched  to 
Bokhara  dm'ing  this  period. 

It  is  to  the  diplomatic  relations  of  these  six 
years  that  we  would  now  draw  attention. 

In  July,  1836,  the  Karaul-Begi,  Kurban-Beg- 
Ashurbek,  arrived  at  the  fortress  of  Orsk,  in  the 
quality  of  Bokharian  envoy,  accompanied  by  a 
suite  of  fifteen'  men,  and  with  four  arghamaks 
(horses)  as  gifts  for  the  Imperial  Court.  On  the 
occasion  of  their  arrival.  General  Perovski  wrote  to 
the  Russian  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs.  The 
office  of  Karaul-Begi,  signifying  chief  of  the  gate- 
guards,  is  not  of  importance,  though  each  gate  in 
Bokhara  has  a  separate  Karaul-Begi.  The  state- 
ment made  by  the  Kush-Begi  in  Vitkevitch's  report, 


Ill'  Trac('t>i  III  Central,  .A, 


la. 


should  be  borne  in  mind,  which  is  to  the  effect 
that  the  Bokharian  Government  does  not  consider 
it  necessary  to  select  men  of  high  position  as  en- 
voys to  Russia,  and  even  vaunts  itself  on  conferring 
that  dignity  on  persons  of  low  degree. 

But  notwithstanding  this  unfavourable  recom- 
mendation, the  Karaul-Begi  was  courteously  treated, 
and  obtained  permission  to  proceed  to  St.  Peters- 
burg with  a  suite  of  foiu'  persons  ;  the  horses 
were  ordered  to  be  distributed  among  the  breeding 
stables  (horse  farms)  of  the  Orenburg  region. 

On  reaching  the  capital,  the  envoy  presented  a 
letter  to  the  Emperor  from  the  Emir,  and  others 
from  the  Kush-Begi  to  the  Minister  for  Foreign 
Affairs,  and  to  the  Director  of  the  Asiatic  depart- 
ment. The  object  of  this  mission,-^in  addition  to 
its  being  cliarged  A\ith  assurances  of  friendship, 
and  to  express  the  wishes  on  the  part  of  the  Emir 
that  the  commercial  and  political  relations  of  the 
two  countries  should  be  consolidated,- — was  to  lay 
the  follo\ving  circumstances  before  the  Russian 
Government :  1st.  That  the  English  had  again 
lately  sent  agents  from  India  to  Bokhara,  who 
were  tiying  to  conclude  a  treaty  for  supplying  the 
Bokharians  \\'ith  English  goods  on  advantageous 
terms  for  the  former ;  and,  2nd.  That  the  ruler  of 


Russian  Mission  to  Bokhara.  415 

Cabul,  threatened  by  Runjeet-Sing,  had  likewise 
despatched  a  special  agent  to  the  Khan  of  Bok- 
hara, with  proposals  for  forming  a  defensive  alliance 
against  their  common  enemies. 

The  envoy  returned  to  Orenburg  on  the  28th  of 
March,  and  took  back  an  Imperial  letter  to  the 
Emir,  and  also  one  from  the  Vice- Chancellor  to 
the  Kush-Begi.  The  mission  left  Orenburg  on  the 
24th  of  August. 

As  no  special  benefit  was  to  be  derived  from 
similar  missions,  while  the  expenses  attending 
their  entertainment  were  considerable,  the  Russian 
Government  resolved  to  put  a  stop  to  the  too  fre- 
quent visits  of  their  neighbom's,  by  delicate  hints, 
and  Count  Nesselrode,  in  his  letter  to  the  Kush- 
Begi,  pointing  out  the  great  distance  of  the  capital 
of  the  empire  from  its  Asiatic  boundaries,  re- 
quested that  in  all  urgent  matters,  the  Bokharian 
Government  should  apply  to  the  military  governor 
of  Orenburg,  who  possessed  the  confidence  of  the 
Emperor;  the  Bokharians,  however,  did  not  feel 
inclined  to  understand  su.g\v  finesse. 

Two  years  had  not  elapsed  since  the  departure 
of  the  Karaul-Begi,  when  in  August,  1838,  another 
envoy  appeared  before  the  cordon  of  the  fortress 
of  Orsk ;  this  messenger  was  Balta-Kuli-Beg-Rah- 


416  Travida  in  Central  ^iaia. 

met-bek,  who  had  already  visited  Russia  in  1830, 
as  representative  of  Bokhara.  He  was  now  the 
bearer  of  an  autograph  letter  from  the  Emir  to 
the  Emperor,  despatches  from  his  ministers  to 
Nesselrode,  Perovski  and  others,  and  presents  for 
the  Court,  consisting  of  an  elephant,  arghamaks 
and  Cashmere  shawls,  and  furthermore  brought 
three  Russian  prisoners  with  him  for  liberation ; 
his  retinue  was  composed  of  twenty  men. 

Two  §ilver  roubles  a  day,  or  about  six  shillings, 
were  allowed  him  by  the  Russian  authorities  for 
his  subsistence ;  five  of  the  more  important 
memliers  of  his  suite  received  fifty  copecks  a  day, 
or  one  and  sixpence,  and  the  others  twenty-five 
copecks,  or  ninepence.  Balta-Kuli-Beg  was  well 
received,  and  allowed  to  appear  at  Court.  Ac- 
cording to  Perovski,  he  avus  a  man  of  very  limited 
rmderstanding.  What  could  possibly  be  the  ob- 
ject of  the  appearance  of  this  new  envoy  of  the 
Emir  ?  In  the  absence  of  the  written  message  of 
the  ruler  of  Bokhara,  ^ve  must  endeavour  to  ar- 
rive at  it  from  the  Emperor's  letter  written  in  reply, 
and  from  the  letters  of  Count  Nessehode  to  Ishan- 
Reis,  head  dignitary  of  Bokhara,  and  to  the  envoy 
himself.  In  them  we  find  the  same  expressions  of 
thanks  for  the  prolestatious   of  friendship  on  the 


Avaricious  Aims  of  BohlMrian  Embassies.    417 

part  of  the  Bokharians,  the  same  promises  to  en- 
courage the  trade  between  the  two  countries,  and 
the  same  accompaniments  of  presents,  as  proofs 
of  friendship.  The  only  novel  feature  in  them  ap- 
pears to  be  a  request  on  the  part  of  the  avaricious 
Emir,  for  the  Russian  Government  to  send  him  a 
mining  engineer  officer,  to  explore  his  territory  for 
gold  and  precious  stones.  This  want  might  have 
been  made  known  without  despatching  a  special 
embassy. 

On  the  27th  of  October,  Balta-Kuli-Bek  returned 
to  his  own  country  from  Orenburg,  taking  with 
him  many  tangiljle  marks  of  favour,  in  the  shape 
of  brocade,  cloth,  crystal,  &c. 

The  cost  of  maintenance  and  travelling  expenses 
of  this  last  guest,  with  the  presents  of  money  to 
him  and  his  suite,  exclusive  of  that  of  his  residence 
at  St.  Petersburg,  amounted  to  9000  silver 
roubles,  the  transmission  of  the  elephant  to  St. 
Petersburg  costing  3000  more.  If  to  this  total 
we  add  the  value  of  the  presents  for  the  Emir  to 
the  Embassy,  we  shall  find  that  Nusseer-UUa's 
renewal  of  assurances  of  friendship  were  rather 
high-priced. 

It  was  at  all  events  apparent  that  the  constant 
despatching  of  missions  served  as  a  novel  and  ex- 


418  Travels  in  Central  Aula. 

ceedingly  profitable  speculation,  in  which  his 
Eminence  sacrificed  nothing  but  a  few  elephants 
and  horses,  the  travelling  expenses  of  the  envoy  to 
the  frontier  being  almost  invariably  defrayed  by 
the  merchants  whose  caravans  they  happened  to 
accompany. 

The  Emir's  request,  however,  was  complied  with, 
and  by  order  of  the  Emperor  an  expedition  was 
organized  in  April,  1S39,  under  the  direction  of 
Captain  Kovale\'ski  of  the  mining  Engineers,  who 
was  accompanied  by  Captain  Herrngros,  an 
interpreter,  a  head-miner,  tAvo  viewers,  and  four 
Cossacks.  Kovale\'ski  was  also  furnished  with  a 
letter  of  recommendation  to  Ishan-Reis,  a  notifica- 
tion having  been  previously  gi^'cn  of  his  departure 
to  Balta-Kuli-Beg. 

Kovalevski  was  instructed  by  the  chief  of  the 
mining  department  to  collect  information  respect- 
ing the  geological  formation  of  the  soil  of  Bokhara, 
its  mineral  wealth,  trade  hi  precious  metals,  method 
of  manufacturing  the  Khorassan  steel,  frc.  &c. 
\iy  the  Muiister  of  Trade  and  ^Manufactm'cs,  he  was 
charged  to  direct  his  attention  to  the  Asiatic  trade 
generally,  and  the  Russian  Mhiister  of  Foreign 
Aff'airs  gave  him  special  written  instructions,  in 
which,  among  other  things,  he  was  instructed  to 


Instructions  to  the  Mining  Expedition.      4 1 9 

endeavour  to  obtain  a  diminution  of  the  duties  im- 
posed on  Russian  traders,  to  ascertain  the  opinion 
of  the  Bokharian  Government  on  the  subject 
of  permanently  establishing  a  Russian  Consul  at 
Bokhara,  to  gather  information  regarding  the 
quantity,  quahty,  and  value  of  English  merchandize, 
and  the  competition  they  present  to  Russian  pro- 
ductions ;  to  obtain  the  liberation  of  Russian  pri- 
soners ;  to  form  an  estimate,  while  on  the  spot,  of 
the  possibility  of  extending  Russian  trade  to 
Afghanistan,  and  other  countries  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Amu,  and  finally  to  collect  statistical  and 
topographical  data  relating  to  Bokhara,  and  the 
countries  adjacent  to  it  on  the  South. 

Kovalevski  left  Orenburg  vi^ith  the  Bokharian 
envoy,  and  proceeding  through  Bish-Tamak,  across 
the  Emba  and  Mugodjar  mountains,  reached  the 
Great  Barsuki  Sands  by  the  middle  of  November. 

Almost  at  the  very  outset  of  the  expedition,  it 
encountered  opposition  from  evil-disposed  Kirghiz 
bands,  who  were  irritated  by  the  movement  of 
General  Perovski's  column  across  the  Steppe  about 
this  time.  The  dangers  of  the  caravan  were  still 
further  increased  by  meeting  an  official  from  Khiva, 
who  had  been  sent  by  the  Khan  of  that  country,  to 
instigate    the    Kirghizes     against    the    Russians. 


420  Traoeh  in  Central  As 


ua. 


Menaces  were  added  to  other  insults.  The  Khivan 
agent  insisted  that  the  caravan  should  cross  the 
Syr,  and  proceed  through  the  Khivan  fortress.  He 
told  the  Russian  officers  that  they  were  his  pri- 
soners, and  ordered  a  watch  to  be  placed  over  their 
tents  during  the  night-halts.  Owing  to  these  cir- 
cmnstances,  Kovalevski  fled  secretly  from  the 
caravan,  and  sought  protection  in  the  nearest 
Russian  fortification.  Dming  the  night  of  the 
21 — 22  November,  hi  a  severe  snow-storm,  the 
Russian  ofl&cers,  abandoning  their  luggage,  and 
half-dressed,  mounted  their  horses  and  hastened  to 
Chush-Kakul  Fort,  which  they  reached  on  the  24th 
November, — performing  thus  300  versts  (or  80 
miles  English)  in  2-|  days. 

All  the  things  abandoned  l)y  Kovalevski  reached 
Bokhara  in  safety,  and  were  taken  care  of  there 
until  the  arrival  of  a  new  Russian  mission,  to  the 
head  of  ^\d^ich  they  were  subsequently  del^^'ered  ;  and 
the  officers  of  Kovalevski's  expedition  returned  to 
the  Russian  frontier  line  ^vith  Perovski's  detach- 
ment in  the  middle  of  March.  Thus  ended  this 
imsuccessful  midertaking,  Avhich  cost  the  Govern- 
ment 2700  ducats  independent  of  travelling  ex- 
penses. The  despatch  of  mining  engineers  to 
Bokhara  A\'as  ])ostponed  imtil    a  more  favourable 


British  Political  Complications  in  1840.     421 

opportunity.  But  still  the  speculation  in  embassies 
did  not  cease.  The  Emir  and  his  Ministers  were 
not  the  men  to  abstain  from  a  profitable  and 
easy  stroke  of  diplomacy,  but  they  were  likewise 
compelled  by  other  circumstances  to  open  nego- 
tiations with  Russia.  It  was  this  therefore  that 
caused  the  appearance  of  another  Bokharian  en- 
voy, KuUi-Bi-Mulla  Mukin-Beg  Mahommed-Seid,  at 
Orenburg  on  the  IBth  of  August,  1840,  with  a 
suit  of  thirty-nine  persons  and  the  inevitable  ar- 
ghamaks  for  the  Imperial  Court. 

The  Russian  Government  had  by  this  time  become 
well  acquainted  with  the  speculative  proclivi- 
ties of  the  Emir  and  his  Ministers,  and  the  estimable 
Mukin-Beg  might  possibly  not  have  had  the  good 
fortune  of  seeing  St.  Petersburg,  had  not  events  in 
Central  Asia  about  this  time  called  for  closer 
relations  between  Russia  and  Bokhara.  The 
English  were  at  that  time  playing  the  comedy 
in  Afghanistan  on  which  the  curtain  dropped  so 
tragically. 

The  proceedings  of  the  English  placed  both 
themselves  and  the  Russians  in  a  curious  predica- 
ment. On  one  side  exaggerated  rumours  of  Russian 
preparations  on  a  large  scale  for  a  war  in  Turan, 
and  of  the  movement  of  her  troops  towards  Khiva, 


422  Trai'ch  in  Ceiiirnl  Asia. 

spread  through  Europe,  while  on  the  other,  England 
hiding  her  real  intentions  under  the  pretext  of 
espousing  the  cause  of  the  worthless  and  vicious 
Shoojah-Ul-Mulh,  triumphantly  marched  an  army 
of  eighteen  thousand  men  through  Hyderabad  and 
Kandahar  to  Cahul,  and,  calculating  on  anticipating 
by  these  means  the  advance  of  the  Russians  on 
Afghanistan,  stationed  their  forces  at  the  very  gates 
of  India. 


It  will  fall  to  the  share  of  the  future  historian  of 
Perovski's  expedition  to  Khiva  to  recount  the  in- 
teresting relations  between  these  two  countries ; 
suffice  it  to  say  here  that  during  the  mission  of 
Mukin-Beg  the  Baraksi  dynasty  had  already  failed, 
and  that  Dost-Mahomed,  Khan  of  Cabul,  its  most 
able  representative,  was  a  fugitive  in  Bokhara. 
The  adxanced  English  troops  had  appeared  at 
Bamian  and  Sigan,  and  rumours  were  rife  of  their 
movements  to  the  Amu-Daria,  and  farther  to  Samar- 
cand. 

"All  the  members  of  the  English  Government," 
says  an  historian  of  the  English  expedition  to 
Cabul,  "  diu-ing  Lord  Auckland's  administration  of 
India,  were  particularly  apprehensive  of  the  Rus- 


Rumours  of  a  Russian  AUmnci^  with  Cabul.  423 

sians;  they  daily  expected  a  Russian  advance  to 
Hindustan,  apprehensions  that  rose  to  a  ridiculous 
panic  on  receipt  of  the  intelligence  of  the  Russian 
expedition  to  Khiva.  Even  Burnes  was  informed 
by  one  of  his  agents  that  the  Russians  had  con- 
quered Khiva  and  were  proceeding  by  forced 
marches  to  Bokhara.  On  another  occasion  it  was 
reported  that  the  ruler  of  Bokhara  had  con- 
cluded an  offensive  and  defensive  alliance  with  the 
Emperor  of  Russia,  and  that  their  united  forces 
were  marching  to  Balkh."  * 

These  rumours  and  apprehensions  induced  the 
English,  independent  of  their  march  on  Cabul,  to 
have  recourse  to  other  measui'es  for  counteracting 
the  imaginary  machinations  of  Russia,  and  with 
this  object  their  diplomatic  agents  appeared  in  the 
Tiuan.  Captains  Abbot  and  Shakespere  made 
their  way  to  Khiva,  and  unsuccessfully  filled  the 
parts  of  mediators  in  the  dispute  between  that 
country  and  Russia ;  and  the  enterprising  ConoUy 
penetrated  into  Kokan,  while  Bokhara  was  visited 
by  Colonel  Stoddart,  whose  appearance  the  Bokha- 
rians  expected  to  be  followed  by  an  English 
force. 

*  "Afghanistan  and  tlie  Eixglish  in  1841-42." — Nearaann. 


-1'  24  TrnvelH  in  Central  Asia. 

It  was  natural,  under  such  circumstances,  that 
the  Emir  should  seriously  reflect  on  his  probable 
fate,  and  despatch  an  embassy,  not  from  motives 
of  cupidity  alone,  to  Russia.  The  agent  chosen  to 
proceed  to  the  court  of  St.  Petersburg  was  one  of 
the  most  influential  persons  of  Bokhara,  and 
similar  care  was  shown  in  the  selection  of  his  suite; 
besides  the  two  sons  of  the  envoy,  different  diplo- 
matic officials,  two  pages,  a  runner,  and  four 
musicians  accompanied  it.  Alukin  -  Beg  pre- 
sented a  letter,  six  shawls,  and  two  arghamaks, 
or  horses,  from  the  Emir  to  the  Emperor,  besides 
gifts  to  the  different  Russian  authorities. 

The  visible  object  of  the  embassy  was  to  com- 
plain against  the  treacherous  acts  of  Khiva,  to  ob- 
tain protection  for  the  Bokharian  merchants,  and 
permission  for  Bokharian  pilgrims  to  pass  through 
Russia  to  Mecca. 

The  envoy  arrived  at  St.  Petersburg  on  the  30th 
of  October,  with  a  suite  of  seven  Bokharians.  Ex- 
hibiting great  distress  of  mind,  both  dm'ing  the 
journey  and  on  his  arrival  at  the  capital,  for  want 
of  his  musicians,  who  had  been  left  behind  at  Oren- 
burg, he  prevailed  on  the  Russian  Government  to 
have  two  of  his  artists  forwarded  to  him,  saying 
that  it  was  the  wish  of  the  Emir  that  they  should 
see  St.  Pftei'sburg. 


Death  of  Mukin-Beg.  425 

On  the  16th  of  February,  Mukin-Beg  proceeded 
on  his  way  back,  but  did  not  reach  Orenburg.  Old 
age,  the  fatiguing  journey,  and  his  immoderate 
mode  of  hviag,  told  on  his  health,  which  was  al- 
ready giving  way  when  he  left  St.  Petersburg.  He 
obstinately  refused  medicine,  and  it  was  only  at 
Moscow  that  he  consented  to  take  a  medical  man 
with  him.  By  the  time  he  reached  Nijni  his 
strength  was  quite  exhausted,  and  he  died  of 
dropsy  of  the  chest  on  the  11th  of  March,  in  spite 
of  aU  medical  assistance.  The  sons  were  allowed 
to  transport  the  body  to  Bokhara,  and  the  ex- 
penses of  embalming  were  defrayed  by  the  Russian 
Government.  An  inventory  of  the  deceased  envoy's 
effects  was  drawn  up,  and  they  were  subsequently 
brought  to  Bokhara  on  the  occasion  of  Major 
Butenef's  mission. 

The  imperial  letters  delivered  to  the  envoy  at 
St.  Petersburg,  and  those  entrusted  to  Major 
Butenef  for  delivery  to  the  Emir,  only  contain 
assurances  of  goodwill,  and  it  would  be  difficult  to 
gather  from  them  alone  the  real  object  of  Mukin- 
Beg's  visit.  Fortunately,  this  is  partly  revealed  by 
the  note  on  the  subject  of  his  mission,  delivered  by 
the  envoy  to  General  Gentz  and  Count  Nesselrode. 
We  shall  not  presume  to   criticise  these  documents 


426  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

in  detail.  We  can  only  say  that  the  Russian  Go- 
vernment found  it  necessary  to  despatch  an 
embassy  to  Bokhara,  composed  according  to  the 
Emu-'s  former  request,  of  mining  officers,  the  chief, 
Major  Butenef,  receiving  at  the  same  tune  separate 
diplomatic  instructions,  in  addition  to  his  othci- 
commissions. 

The  despatch  of  agents  to  Khiva  and  Bokhara 
vi^as  decided  on  during  Mukin-Beg's  stay  at  St. 
Petersburg,  and  10,290  ducats  were  assigned  to 
defray  their  expenses.  Before  Butenef  s  departure, 
besides  receiving  verbal  directions,  and  being  al- 
lowed to  make  himself  acquainted  with  the  docu- 
ments relating  to  Central  Asia,  in  the  Foreign  de- 
partment, he  was  furnished  with  written  instructions 
by  the  Mining,  Industrial,  and  Foreign  depart- 
ments. The  instructions  of  the  Minister  for 
Foreign  Affairs,  after  mentioning  Kovalevski's 
mission  to  Khiva,  and  stating  that  the  agent  was 
sent  to  Bokhara  in  compliance  with  the  solicita- 
tions of  the  Emir,  with  the  object  of  exploring  the 
mineral  resources  of  the  country,  go  on  as  follows  : 
— "  You  are,  moreover,  charged  with  the  collection 
of  positive  and  reliable  information  concerning  the 
Kahnat  of  Bokhara  and  neighbouring  countries, 
and  with  the  arrangement  of  terms,  for  regulating 


Diplomatic  nil dothe7- Instructions  of  M.  Butenef.  427 

the  mutual  relations  between  Bokhara  and  Russia." 
In  order  to  give  greater  weight  to  the  negotiations 
between  Butenef  and  Nusseer-UUa,  it  was  con- 
sidered expedient  to  give  the  agent  the  title  of 
envoy,  and  to  furnish  him  full  power  from  the 
Russian  Government.  The  geological  investigations 
were  to  be  conducted  by  the  junior  officer,  under 
Butenefs  superintendence.  Proposing  also  that 
Butenef  should  observe  the  eflFect  produced  on 
Bokhara  by  the  recent  events  in  Afghanistan,  the  in- 
structions proceeded  to  say  : — "  The  acquisition  of 
this  information  wiU  enable  you  to  suggest  the  best 
means  for  strengthening  the  political  influence  of 
Russia,  and  for  developing  Russian  trade  in  this 
part  of  Asia." 

The  instructions  then  sketch  out  an  extensive 
programme  for  gathering  information  regarding  the 
Bokharian  trade,  and  pointed  out  that  Russia  had 
always_been  friendly  disposed  to  Bokhara,  and  had 
protected  her  merchants,  but  that  the  Bokharians 
had  often  in  return  shown  great  ingratitude  by  op- 
pressing' her  traders,  slighting  her  envoys,  &c.  &c. 
Butenef  is  requested  to  explain  to  the  Khan  that 
his  real  interests  would  be  furthered  by  maintaining 
friendly  relations  with  Russia,  and  to   inspire  him 

rF2 


428  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

with  confidence  in  the  sincerity  of  the  Russian 
Government.  In  assiu-ance  of  the  latter  the  agent 
was  to  draw  the  Khan's  attention  to  the  disinter- 
ested policy  of  Russia  with  regard  to  other  Maho- 
metan countries,  for  instance  the  assistance  she  had 
given  to  Tm^key  and  Persia,  against  the  rebellious 
Pasha  of  Egypt  in  the  first  case,  and  in  seating 
Mahomet-Shah  on  the  throne,  in  the  second ;  and 
which  was  also  evidenced  by  her  generous  forgive- 
ness of  the  misdeeds  of  Alla-Kul,  when  the  latter 
complied    with  the  principal  demands  of  Russia. 

"  All  these  and  similar  suggestions,"  said  the 
instructions,  "  made  to  the  Khan  of  Bokhara  ^vith 
proper  discretion  and  adduced  as  your  arguments, 
will  assuredly  convince  him  of  the  advantage  of 
Russian  mediation  and  of  the  honesty  of  our 
policy." 

Then  passing  to  the  negotiations,  the  agent  is 
to  endeavour  to  procm'e  the  consent  of  the  Khan 
to  the  following  terms : — 

1.  Neither  openly  nor  secretly  to  show  hostility 
against  Russia. 

2.  Not  to  detain  in  slavery  or  by  any  means 
obtain  Russian  prisoners,  and  to  guarantee  the 
personal  safety  and  property  of  every  Russian 
suliject  witliin  Bokharian  tci-ritor\-. 


Proposed  Terms  of  Treaiy.  429 

3.  In  the  event  of  the  death  of  a  Russian  subject 
in  Bokhara,  his  property  is  not  to  be  seized  by 
the  Crown,  but  returned  intact  to  the  Russian 
authorities  at  the  frontier. 

4.  To  prohibit  Bokharians  from  robbing  and 
imposing  arbitrary  laws  on  Russians,  and  to  inflict 
immediate  punishment  on  those  guilty  of  such 
offiences. 

5.  To  impose  a  single  duty  on  Russian  goods 
brought  to  Bokhara,  which  duty  is  not  to  exceed 
5  per  cent,  of  their  real  value. 

6.  That  Russian  traders  should  not  be  annoyed 
and  oppressed  within  the  dominions  of  Bokhara, 
and  that  they  should  be  afforded  the  same  protec- 
tion as  Bokharians  enjoy  in  Russia. 

In  return  for  these  stipulations,  the  Russian 
agent  was  to  guarantee  in  the  name  of  the  Russian 
Government  :■ — 

1.  Safety  of  person  and  property  to  Bokharian 
subjects  within  the  boundaries  of  the  Russian 
Empire. 

2.  The  extension  of  the  same  privileges  to 
Bokharians  as  are  enjoyed  by  other  Asiatics  trading 
to  Russia. 

3.  The  right  of  requiring  the  punishment  of 
Kirghizes  and  Turkmens  subject  to  Russia,  in  case 
they  pillaged  Bokharian  caravans. 


430  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

4.  Pemaission  to  Bokharian  pilgrims  proceeding 
to  Mecca,  to  pass  through  Russian  territory  on 
condition  that  they  conform  to  the  existing  pohce 
regulations  in  Russia. 

No  difficulty  was  anticipated  in  obtaining  the 
Emir's  consent  to  the  clauses  relating  to  the  safety 
of  the  lives  and  property  of  Russian  subjects,  but 
the  minister  was  not  so  sure  on  the  subject  of  the 
decrease  of  duties,  though  the  agent  is  dii'ected  in 
his  instructions  to  gain  the  adhesion  of  the  Khan  to 
this  point  by  quoting  Persia  and  Turkey  where  the 
tariff  on  Russian  goods  was  regulated  by 
treaties. 

The  instructions  generally  du'cct  the  agent  to 
conduct  the  negotiations  with  proper  dignity,  firm- 
ness and  discretion. 

Should  the  Khan,  however,  refuse  to  accede  to 
the  proposed  terms,  the  agent  was  not  to  fail  in 
acquainting  him  that  the  fulfilment  of  these  con- 
ditions was  guaranteed  by  the  lives  and  property  of 
the  Bokharians  existing  Russia. 

Finally,  Butenef  Avas  directed  to  obtahi  the 
Khan's  assent  to  the  temporary  presence  at  first 
of  a  Russian  official  at  Bokhara,  so  that  the  same 
might  afteiwards,  under  more  favoiu-able  circum- 
stances, lie  re|)laced  by  a   permanent  agent,  and  to 


Umime  of  the  Envoy  s  Instructions.       431 

use  every  exertion  to  obtain  the  liberation  of  all 
Russian  slaves  w^ithin  the  dominions  of  the 
Khan. 

If  matters  went  smoothly,  the  mission  was  to 
remain  about  a  year  at  Bokhara,  and  to  return 
with  a  caravan  in  the  following  spring ;  but  in  the 
event  of  an  unfavourable  reception,  and  if  all 
attempts  at  accommodation  proved  unsuccessful, 
the  agent  was  to  return  to  Russia  without  entering 
into  any  negotiations. 

From  the  above  it  wiU  be  observed  how  com- 
plicated were  the  instructions  given  to  Butenef; 
besides  that  they  touched  on  such  delicate  points 
as  remission  of  duties,  liberation  of  slaves,  the 
settlement  of  which  under  the  ignorant  prejudices 
and  customs  of  the  Asiatics,  would  at  first  sight 
appear  impossible,  and  could  only  be  carried  out  by 
the  pressure  of  any  extraordinary  circumstances 
in  which  Bokhara  might  find  herself  placed. 

"  We  hope,"  said  the  Chancellor  to  the  Vizier, 
"  that  M.  Butenef  will  be  as  well  received  by  you, 
as  are  the  Bokharian  envoys  in  Russia,  and  will 
in  like  manner  be  allowed  to  depart  whenever  he 
wishes  to  do  so."  And  then  again :  "  It  has 
reached  our  knowledge  that  the  Emir  had  intended 
to  have  despatched  the  Englishman  Stoddart,  who 


432  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

is  now  among  you,  with  your  Envoy  Mukin-Beg 
to  Russia,  but  was  deterred  alone  by  the  appre- 
hension of  an  attack  by  the  Khivans.  According 
to  the  existing  mutual  relations  between  the 
States  of  Russia  and  Great  Britain,  this  intention 
on  the  part  of  the  Emir  was  most  pleasing  to  us. 
Now  as  the  fomier  obstacle  no  longer  exists,  we 
entertain  the  hope  that  the  will  of  the  Emir  will  be 
fulfilled.  The  best  way  of  forwarding  the  said 
Englishman  to  Russia  wiU  be  to  send  him  on  with 
a  caravan  to  Orenburg,  where  the  Russian  governor 
will  make  all  further  arrangements." 

With  regard  to  this  latter  chcumstance,  it 
must  be  observed  that  the  English  Government 
had  applied  several  times  to  Russia,  to  secm-e  her 
CO  operation  in  procm'ing  the  liberation  of  the 
unfortunate  Stoddart. 

Information  ha\ing  been  received  a  short  time 
before  the  departure  of  the  Russian  mission  to 
Bokhara,  that  Stoddart  had  refused  to  take 
advantage  of  an  opportunity  for  proceeding  to 
Russia,  not  wishing  to  owe  his  liberation  to  the 
intercession  of  any  foreign  government.  Lord 
Palmcrston  again  addressed  himself  to  the  Russian 
ambassador  in  London,  soliciting  the  renewal  of 
Russian  efforts  in  behalf  of  the  English  agent. 


Attempt  to  liberate  Colonel  Stoddart.       433 

It    is  evident  from   Mukin-Beg's     notes,    that 
Khiva   did    her   best    to   rescue   Stoddart.      The 
Russian  Government  on  its  part  could  not  remain 
indifferent  to  the  fate  of  the  unfortunate  prisoner, 
both   from   a   friendly  feeling    towards   England, 
as   well   as   from   other   reasons,  and  the  extract 
cited   from  the    Chancellor's    letter    proves    her 
lively  interest  in  the  matter.     Butenef  was  besides 
commissioned    persistently  to  demand    Stoddart's 
liberation,    and  to    despatch  him   to   Russia  by 
the  first  opportunity.     In  forwarding  to  Perovski 
the    letters    of    the  Marquis   of    Clanricarde  for 
Stoddart,  which  were  to  be  delivered  to  the  latter 
by  Butenef,  the  Chancellor  wrote :  "  The  explana- 
tions given  by  the  late  Bokharian  envoy,  lead  us  to 
hope  that  Nusseer-UUa  will  not  oppose  Stoddart's 
departure  for  Russia,  and  Lord  Clanricarde's  letter 
will  probably  induce  this  officer  to  waive  his  feelings 
of  misplaced  vanity,  and  to  seize  the  present  oppor- 
tunity for  obtaining  his  release.    I  would,  therefore, 
request  you  to  do  everything  in  yom'  power,  in 
case  Stoddart  should  reach  the  Orenburg  line,  for 
securing  him  a  friendly  reception,  and  desire  you 
to  furnish  him  with  means    for  enabling  him  to 
proceed     to     St.    Petersburg    without    interrup- 
tion." 


4t54  Travels  in  Cenfrnl  Asia. 

The  Russian  mission  consisted  of  Captain 
Bogoslovski,  of  the  mining  engineers ;  the 
naturahst  Lehmann ;  M.  Khanykof,  from  the 
Ministry  for  Foreign  Aifairs ;  the  interpreter 
Kostromitinof ;  the  topographer  Yakovlef;  three 
miners ;  two  stuifers  of  animals ;  ten  Cossacks  of 
the  Ural ;  and  five  Kirghizes ;  the  mission  was 
also  accompanied  by  the  children  and  suite  of  the 
deceased  Mukin-Beg.*  The  gold  pieces  supplied  to 
the  members  of  the  mission  were  directed  to  be 
secreted  in  their  sword  cases  or  in  leathern  belts, 
so  as  not  to  excite  the  cupidity  of  the  Bokharians 
who  would  examine  the  luggage,  which  was  to  be 
transported  by  fifty  five  camels. 

Lieutenant-Colonel  Blaramberg,  at  the  head  of  a 
detachment  of  400  Ural  Cossacks,  was  to  escort 
the  mission  to  the  river  Syr,  and  17,000  silver 
roubles  were  assigned  towards  the  maintenance  of 
these  troops.  Returning  again  to  the  political 
instructions  with  which  the  head  of  the  mission 
w  as  charged,  Pcrovski  recommended  that  a  reduc- 
tion of  the  duties  on  Russian  goods  to  2\  per  cent. 
sli^uld  be  strenuously  insisted  on,  and  that  the 
agent,  Avhen  speaking  about  the  yearly  visit  of  a 

*  For   tlie   expenses  of    the    journey    Butouef    received  4930 

ducalb,  itc. 


Departure  of  the  Mission.  435 

Russian  official  to  Bokhara,  should  work  on  the 
vanity  and  pride  of  the  Emir,  by  pointing  out  to 
him  that  such  persons  are  stationed  at  the  courts 
of  all  independent  rulers. 

With  regard  to  Stoddart,  rumours  of  his  execu- 
tion at  Bokhara  having  reached  Orenburg,  Perovski 
suggests  to  Butenef,  in  the  event  of  the  report 
being  correct,  that  he  should  urge  on  the  Emir  the 
propriety  of  communicating  the  circumstance  by 
letter  to  the  Emperor,  through  the  Kush-Begi. 

The  mission  left  Orenburg  in  the  month  of  May, 
and  under  protection  of  Blaramberg's  detachment, 
proceeded  through  the  settlement  of  Bish-Tamak, 
the  Morgodjar  hills,  and  reached  the  ferry  over  the 
Syr  at  Mailibash  on  the  18th  of  July.  On  the  22nd, 
parting  with  the  escort,  it  crossed  the  river  in  a 
large  boat  sent  from  the  Khivan  fortress,  which 
stands  on  the  site  of  the  former  Djanket  fort,  and 
arrived  at  the  Kuvan  river,  from  whence  Butenef 
despatched  a  letter  to  the  Kush-Begi,  informing 
him  of  the  arrival  of  the  mission. 

Leaving  the  mission  now  to  ^^end  its  way 
across  the  Kyzyl-Kum  waste,  let  us  acquaint  the 
reader  with  the  character  of  the  Emir  and  his 
principal  ministers. 

The  Emir,  Nusseer-Ula,  Bogadur-Khan,  belonged 


436  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

to  that  class  of  persons  in  whom  a  remarkable 
pliancy  of  intellect  was  combined  with  all  the 
qualities  inherent  in  all  Asiatic  rulers.  He  was 
revengeful,  sensual,  and  proud,  though  when  forced 
by  circumstances,  could  skilfully  play  a  humble 
part,  deceiving  the  most  experienced  European 
diplomatist. 

His  conduct  towards  Hakim-Bai,  the  former 
Kush-Begi,  and  then  towards  Stoddart,  resembled 
a  cat  playing  with  a  mouse.  His  constant  flattery 
of  the  Russian  Government,  and  the  subsequent 
bad  treatment  of  Butenef's  mission,  his  overtures 
to  the  Khan  of  Kokan,  while  he  was  supporting 
the  rival  claimant  to  those  dominions,  plainly 
characterize  the  domestic  and  foreign  policy  of  the 
Emir,  ^vho  for  a  period  of  thirt}'-four  years  ruled 
his  Bokharian  subjects  with  a  rod  of  iron. 

AMthout  giving  at  length  the  biography  of 
Nusscer-UUa,  the  interesting  details  of  which  are  to 
be  found  in  many  works,  we  think  it  necessary  to 
quote  here  some  observations  made  by  Butenef's 
contemporaries,  respecting  the  Emir,  in  order  to 
see  what  were  the  opinions  entertained  of  this 
ruler  between  the  years  1830-40. 

This  is  what  the  Russian  traveller,  Vitkevitch,  who 
visited  Bokliiua  in  1S35,  writes  of  him: — "The 


state  of  Bokhara  in  1,840.  437 

present  Batyr-Khan,  who  is  always  simply  called 
the  Emir,  or  ruler,  has  delegated  all  sovereign  power 
to  the  Kush-Begi.  The  Kush-Begi  Hakim-Bai, 
is  an  old  man  of  great  subtlety,  covetous  in  the 
extreme,  and  possessing  great  wealth;  being,  in 
fact,  the  richest  Bokharian,  and  even  richer  than 
the  Khan.  He  will  not  allow  any  matter  to  reach 
the  Khan,  and  entirely  acts  as  he  pleases ;  the 
Khan  can  no  longer  oppose  him.  The  Khan,  also, 
is  self-willed,  cruel,  and  given  to  every  description 
of  sensuality,  boys  and  girls  being  forcibly  taken 
from  their  parents  to  gratify  his  brutal  passions." 

General  Gentz,  another  traveller,  who  passed 
the  greater  portion  of  his  life  in  the  collection  of 
information  on  Central  Asia,  gives  the  following 
account  of  affairs  at  Bokhara : — "  The  Bokharians 
are  dissatisfied  with  the  Emir  and  his  Government. 
There  is  no  Vizier,  and  affairs  are  generally  in 
great  confusion.  The  Custom  dues  and  taxes  are 
collected  by  two  boys ;  of  these,  the  Emir  keeps 
more  than  a  hundred  near  him,  acquiring  new, 
and  sending  away  the  old  ones.  The  Emir  does 
not  trouble  himself  about  affairs,  and  gives  himself 
up  entirely  to  the  vilest  debauchery.  In  the  event 
of  war,  no  one  will  espouse  his  cause;  so  that, 
with  a  small  number  of  troops,  Bokhara  may  be 


438  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

easily  occupied.     All  his  actions  prove  him  to  be 
insane." 

This  sketch  was  made  during  the  summer  of 
1840,  a  short  time  previous  to  the  starting  of  the 
Russian  mission,  and  Mr.  Gentz  had  every  oppor- 
tunity for  forming  a  correct  estimate  of  the  Emir's 
character. 

When  Butenef  arrived  at  Bokhara,  Ishan-Reis, 
the  head  minister  and  successor  of  Hakim-Bai,  v^as 
no  longer  alive.  Although  Ishan  had  merely  been 
chief  of  the  police,  yet,  from  the  favom-  he  had 
received  at  Com't,  and  the  friendly  feehngs  he 
entertained  to  Russia,  it  was  on  him  that  the 
mission  must  chiefly  have  depended  for  success. 
The  Bokharians  themselves  lamented  the  death  of 
Ishan,  saying  that  in  him  Bokhara  had  lost  the 
only  man  who  was  capable  of  managing  State 
affairs  with  profit  and  success  to  his  country. 

Thus,  in  consequence  of  the  death  of  Ishan,  the 
mission  was  obliged  to  carry  on  the  negotiations 
with  the  new  Vizier,  Abdul-Halik,  a  youth  of 
nineteen,  and  fosterling  of  the  male  harem  of  the 
Emir.  It  is  true  there  was  another  person  who 
enjoyed  consideration,  the  Naib  Abdul-Sarmed,  a 
fugitive  from  Persia,  who  was  then  forming  a  body 
of  regular  troops  at  Bokhara ;  but  this  triple-dyed 


Arrival  of  the  Mission  at  Bokhara.       439 

criminal,  condemned  to  the  gallows  in  Persia  and 
India,  and  deprived  of  his  ears  at  Cabul  for 
another  act  of  violence,  had  but  little  share  in 
political  affairs,  and  was,  moreover,  on  good  terms 
with  Stoddart. 

Having  safely  traversed  the  Kyzyl- Kum  sands, 
the  mission  reached  on  the  15th  of  August  the* 
Karagata  wells,  where  it  was  met  by  Myrza 
Fuzail,  an  official  sent  from  Bokhara ;  when  within 
ten  miles  of  the  town,  it  was  welcomed  by  another 
official;  and,  close  to  Bokhara,  Butenef  was  greeted 
by  one  of  the  highest  local  dignitaries,  the  chief 
of  the  Kalmyks,  who,  in  the  name  of  the  Emir, 
invited  the  mission  to  repair  at  once  to  the  palace. 
The  members  of  the  mission,  having  dressed  them- 
selves for  the  audience  in  their  uniforms,  in  one 
of  the  private  dwellings  on  the  way,  they  entered 
Bokhara  on  the  17th  of  August,  in  the  midst  of  a 
great  crowd  of  people.  They  were  here  met  by 
another  envoy,  who  informed  them,  that  in  proof  of 
the  sincere  pleasure  felt  by  the  Emir  on  the 
arrival  of  the  distant  travellers,  he  permitted  them 
to  ride  into  the  palace  on  horseback, — "  a  privi- 
lege," says  Perovski,  "  only  enjoyed  at  Bokhara  by 
the  Vizier  alone." 

After  entering  the  palace  in  the  manner  gra- 


440  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

ciously  sanctioned  by  his  High  Mightiness,  the 
agent  was  then  ushered,  through  a  row  of  Bok- 
harian  officials,  into  a  large  court,  in  Avhich,  wear- 
ing a  white  turban  and  robes  (Khalat),  and  seated 
on  cushions,  was  the  Emir  himself.  After  saluting 
the  Russians,  he  attentively  surveyed  them  for  a 
long  time  ;  he  then  ordered  the  head  Vizier  to 
take  the  Imperial  letter  out  of  Butenef's  hands, 
and,  having  repeated  a  short  prayer,  dismissed  the 
mission. 

The  former  palace  of  the  Khan's  brother  Mir- 
Hussein,  the  best  residence  in  Bokhara,  was  set 
apart  for  the  mission,  and  Butenef  was  informed 
that  he  might  make  any  arrangements  in  it  he 
wished,  for  the  accommodation  of  his  party ;  that 
a  niunerous  retinue  of  servants,  under  Myrza 
Zakaria,  had  been  assigned  to  them ;  and  that 
104  tiangis  per  month  would  be  paid  to  the 
mission  for  its  maintenance. 

In  the  evening  of  the  same  day,  a  Karaul-Begi 
was  sent  by  the  Emir  to  receive  the  Imperial 
presents,  and  on  the  following  morning,  Mr.  Khany- 
kof  delivered  to  the  Vizier  the  articles  and  letters 
destined  forjiim. 

On  the  21st,  the  agent  had  an  interview  with 
Abdul-Khalyk,  the  Vizier,  in  the  Khan's  garden, 


Openinff  of  flu^  NeffottafioiiK:.  141 

and  received  presents  for  himself  and  the  other 
members  of  the  mission.  Soon  after,  Butenef 
was  invited  by  the  Emir  to  appear  weekly  on 
Fridays  for  morning  prayers  at  the  palace. 

On  the  23rd,  the  Emir  sent  his  medical  man  t(j 
confer  with  the  Russian  agent  on  the  subject  of 
the  intended  mineralogical  explorations. 

It  was  first  arranged  that  the  examination  should 
commence  at  the  Nurata  hill,  but  this  plan  having 
been  altered,  Messrs.  Lehmann  and  Bogoslovski 
were  despatched  direct  to  Samarcand  and  Karshi, 
for  which  place  they  set  out  on  the  7th  of  Sep- 
tember. Mr.  Khanykof  was  also  allowed  to  follow 
these  gentlemen  the  next  day  to  these  towns  with 
the  topographer,  for  the  purpose  of  giving  presents 
to  the  governors. 

On  the  8th  of  September,  Butenef  visited  the 
Naib  Abdul-Samed,  at  whose  house  he  met  Stod- 
dart,  and  delivered  to  the  latter  Lord  Clanricarde's 
letter,  a  reply  to  which  he  received  and  forwarded 
by  special  messenger  the  same  day. 

In  describing  the  reception  given  to  the  Russian 
mission,  Perovski  adds :  "  Although  Lieutenant 
Colonel  Butenef  has  thus  not  yet  had  an  opportu- 
nity for  opening  negotiations,  still  the  favourable 
reception  which  he  has  met  with,  and  the  ready 

G  G 


442  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

permission  accorded  to  the  members  of  the  mis- 
sion for  proceeding  to  the  eastern  and  less  known 
part  of  Bokhara,  prove  that  Nusseer-UUa  values 
the  goodvifill  of  Russia,  and  lead  one  to  expect  a 
successful  termination  to  the  negotiations." 

We  shall  see  how  far  Perovski's  anticipations 
proved  correct ;  but  it  is  first  of  all  necessary  to 
examine  the  condition  of  affairs  at  the  time  of 
Butenef's  arrival. 

He  found  that  the  situation  of  Bokhara  was 
different  to  that  which  dictated  the  despatch  of 
Mukin-Beg  to  Russia  soliciting  aid.  The  suc- 
cesses of  the  Khan  during  the  previous  year  in 
Kokan,  had  elated  the  Bokharians ;  a  fresh  expe- 
dition, consisting  of  a  numerous  force,  was  already 
being  organized,  and  the  weakness  of  the  enemy 
promised  certain  victory.  Khiva  was  on  friendly 
terms  with  Russia,  and  the  presence  of  a  Russian 
agent  at  that  court  counteracted  the  intrigues  ol 
the  Enghsh,  and  brought  their  movements  to  a 
stand-stUl.  The  state  of  things  on  the  last  and 
most  dangerous  quarter,  that  of  Afghanistan,  was 
no  less  favourable.  The  Emir  was  well  acquainted 
with  the  position  of  English  affairs  in  Cabul,  and 
was,  of  course,  informed  of  the  plans  of  Akbar- 
Khan,  and   secretly  sympatliized  with  him.     Man\' 


Intervieio  of  the  Envoy  with  Col.  Stoddart.  443 

of  the  Emir's  fears  were  thus  dispelled,  and  his 
policy  had,  at  the  same  time,  assumed  a  different 
form.  In  his  foreign  relations,  Nusseer-Ulla  was 
thoroughly  Asiatic ;  his  concessions  and  friend- 
ships were  governed  by  fear  or  cupidity  ;  the 
danger  being  now  nearly  all  removed,  there  was 
no  occasion  for  displaying  any  warmth  towards 
Russia,  and  his  cupidity  was  satisfied  with  the 
presents  he  had  received.  Beyond  this  he  thought 
or  cared  little. 

On  the  ISth  of  September,  the  Emu'  left  for 
Samarcand ;  he  had  no  time  for  conferences  with 
the  Russian  agent,  as  he  was  anxious  to  join  his 
troops  at  Djzizakh,  where  they  were  concentrated 
for  marching  against  Kokan. 

In  his  report  on  this  circumstance,  and  on  the 
subject  of  Stoddart,  Butenef  wrote  from  Bokhara : 

"  Having  heard  several  days  beforehand  of  the 
Emir's  intended  departure,  I  did  everything  I  could 
to  obtain  a  personal  interview  with  him,  but  with- 
out success. 

"  On  the  day  he  left,  the  Emir  gave  orders  that 
Stoddart  should  be  lodged  with  me  ;  he  now  lives 
in  the  house  occupied  by  the  mission,  and  is,  ac- 
cording to  his  own  words,  well  satisfied  with  his 
position." 

G  G  -1 


444  IVaveh  m  Central  Asia. 

In  another  letter,  addressed  to  Nikivorof  at  Khiva, 
he  says  :— "  I  arrived  here  on  the  17  th  of  August, 
and  enjoy  with  my  subordinates  the  particular 
favour  of  the  Emir.     .  .     Up  to  the    pre- 

sent time,  1  have  had  no  verbal  explanations  with 
the  Emir  on  the  subject  of  my  mission.  Never- 
theless, from  what  I  hear,  I  am  sure  the  Emir  will, 
at  my  request,  liberate  all  the  Russian  slaves  here, 
as  well  as  Lieutenant- Colonel  Stoddart,  a  very 
clever,  well-educated  and  agreeable  man,  and  who, 
to  my  great  pleasure,  has  by  order  of  the  Emir  been 
removed  this  day  to  the  house  we  occupy." 

The  Russian  agent  was  thus  confident  of  suc- 
ceeding ultimately  in  obtaining  the  acquiescence  of 
the  Khan  to  the  demands  of  Russia,  and  lived 
quietly  in  the  meantime  with  Stoddart.  On  the 
29th  of  September,  Mr.  Khanykof  returned  to 
Bokhara,  and  was  soon  followed  by  the  exploring 
party,  AA'hich  had  discovered  coal  formations,  and 
extended  their  survey  as  far  as  the  South-Eastern 
som'ces  of  the  Zarafshan. 

Nusseer-Ulla  was,  in  the  meantime,  capturing 
town  after  town  from  the  ruler  of  Kokan,  and  the 
unfortiinate  Medali-Khan,  after  the  loss  of  the 
Tashkend  district  and  the  loss  of  Khodjend,  was 
obliged  to  make  every  concession  and  acknowledge 


Outbreak  of  the  Afghan  U'dr.  445 

himself  a  vassal  of  Bokhara.  On  the  7th  of  No- 
vember, the  victorious  Emir  returned  to  Bokhara, 
and  with  the  dawn  of  the  new  year,  affairs  of 
greater  importance  engaged  the  attention  of  his 
High  Mightiness.  On  one  hand,  the  Khan  of 
Kokan  had,  with  the  assistance  of  his  brother,  the 
ruler  of  Khodjend,  regained  possession  of  the  towns 
wrested  from  him,  while,  on  the  other,  a  rising  oc- 
curred in  Cabul,  to  which  Burnes,  M'Naghten,  and 
other  Englishmen,  fell  sacrifices.  The  ruler  of  the 
Bokharian  true  believers,  of  course,  could  not  remain 
a  passive  spectator  of  these  events.  A  large  force 
Avas  already  collected  for  marching  into  Kokan,  and 
was  only  detained  by  the  frost ;  the  seizure  and 
imprisonment  of  Stoddart,  and  of  ConoUy  who  had 
arrived  from  Tashkend,  displayed  the  Emir's  sym- 
pathy with  the  Afghans,  and  his  complete  neglect 
of  the  Russian  agent  plainly  showed  his  disinclina- 
tion to  have  any  dealings  with  the  infidels. 

In  his  report  on  the  events  in  Kokan  and  Cabul, 
Butenef  gives  the  following  account  of  the  progress 
of  his  own  affairs  : — 

"  Colonel  ConoUy  was  arrested  on  his  arrival  here 
in  October  last,  and  all  his  effects  were  sold  in 
public ;  with  him  was  imprisoned  for  the  second 
time,    Lieutenant-Colonel    Stoddart.      The  Emir, 


446  Travels  in  Centred  Asia. 

however,  before  their  arrest,  promised  me  that  they 
should  be  allowed  to  accompany  me  back  to  Rus- 
sia. .     .  In  a  conference  I  had  with  his 
Highness,  he  refused  to  deliver  over  to  me  all  the 
Russian  slaves  detained  here,  without  receiving  in- 
demnification ;  but  I  still  hope  to  succeed  in  gain- 
ing the  point.     With  respect  to  the  duties,  he  ver- 
bally promised  me  that   more  than    6    per   cent, 
would  not  be  imposed  on  Russian  goods  ;  but,  not- 
withstanding this  assurance,  a  Russian  trader  was 
lately  obliged  to  pay  10  per  cent.,  and  the  Vizier 
here  has,  up  to  the  present  time,  prevented  me 
from  having   a  personal  explanation  with  the  Emir 
on  the  subject,   and  generally  throws  obstacles  in 
the  way  when  I  wish  to  see  his  Highness." 

Acknowledging  the  receipt  of  the  900  ducats 
for  ransoming  the  slaves,  the  agent  again  repeats : 
"  I  am  already  preparing  to  return ;  the  Vizier 
Abdul-Khalyk  still  keeps  me  out  of  sight  of  the 
Emir  by  all  manner  of  devices." 

It  would  indeed  be  strange  that  a  mere  boy  of 
nineteen  could  have  influence  enough  to  prevent 
the  Russian  envoy  from  seeing  the  Emir ;  in  a 
later  report  the  true  reasons  of  his  failure  are 
clearly  brought  to  light. 

Time  passed,  and  the  negotiations  did  not  pro- 


Rupture  of  the  Negotiations.  447 

gress  at  all.  The  Emir  remained  at  Bokhara 
busily  preparing  for  a  campaign  against  Kokan ; 
the  members  of  the  mission  were  received  with 
cool  indifference  when  they  appeared  at  the  Palace 
every  Friday  with  the  Bokharian  officials. 

Spring  had  arrived.  The  Cabul  massacre  was 
over,  the  Bokharian  army  was  put  in  motion  in 
the  direction  of  Kokan,  and  still  all  the  attempts 
of  the  Russian  agent  settling  the  terms  of  a  treaty 
before  the  departure  of  the  Emir  proved  fruit- 
less. 

"  I  am  at  length  convinced,"  he  writes,  "  that  it 
was  not  the  Vizier  who  kept  me  back,  but  Lhat  the 
Emir  himself  avoided  all  intercourse  with  me." 

On  the  12th  of  April  (N.S.),  the  Vizier's  brother 
brought  presents  of  Khalats  for  the  mission,  and  in- 
formed the  agent  that  he  would  be  sununoned  by 
the  Emu-  the  next  day  for  final  explanations.  Appa- 
rently the  first  of  April  (13th  N.  S.  1st  0.  S.,)  is  ob- 
served as  a  day  of  delusions  and  snares  even  in  Cen- 
tral Asia.  The  day  passed  without  bringing  the  ex- 
pected invitation  to  the  palace,  on  the  next,  how- 
ever, the  following  unceremonious  interview  took 
place : — 

"  At  dawn,"  writes  the  agent,  "  I  was  roused  by 
Shagaul-Beg,  who  invited  me  to  the  palace  to  hear 


44S  Tracclx  In  Cc/ifral  ^l.sia. 

tlie  (jracio-m  worth  of  the  Emir.  On  reaching  it,  I 
was  stationed  in  the  court-yard,  and  after  waiting 
an  hour,  the  Emir  made  his  appearance,  equipped 
for  his  journey ;  he  hurriedly  tohl  me  that  he  had 
instructed  his  "  Dostrakhanshi  "  to  communicate 
to  me  every  thing  that  was  necessary  in  addition 
to  what  he  had  told  me  himself,  and  greeting  me 
with  the  words  "  Hosh  amedid,"  rode  out  of  the 
Palace  gates  and  left  Bokhara. 

The  Dostrakhanshi  or  Vizier  did  not  receive  me 
that  day,  but  sent  me  a  request  the  following 
morning  to  furnish  him  with  a  note  of  what  I 
intended  to  demand  at  the  interview.  Strange  as 
this  message  appeared,  I  nevertheless  sent  him  the 
required  note,  requesting  him  to  acquaint  me  of 
the  Emir's  ultimatum  on  the  following  points  : — 

I .  Respecting  the  conclusion  of  a  treaty  with 
Russia. 

:2.  On  the  liberation  of  Russian  slaves. 

3.  Permission  for  allowing  Stoddart  and  ConoUy 
to  return  with  me  in  accordance  with  the  promises 
made  by  the  Emir. 

And  fourthly,  on  the  reduction  of  Customs 
duties  levied  on  tlie  goods  of  Russian  mer- 
chants. 

This   note   the   Dostrakhanslii    despatched  after 


The  Emirs  reply  to  the  Ultiiiiutuiii.        449 

the  Emir  by  special  messenger,  and  on  the  morning 
of  the  1 9th  of  April  the  following  answer  from  the 
Emir  arrived : — 

With  respect  to  a  treaty,  the  Emir  declared  that 
if  the  Emperor  signed  and  forwarded  the  same 
to  Bokhara,  he,  the  Emir,  would  also  confirm 
it. 

The  Russian  slaves  in  Bokhara  would  be  sent 
back  to  Russia  on  the  conclusion  of  the  treaty. 

The  Customs  duties  would  be  reduced  as  soon 
as  the  Russians  decreased  those  imposed  on  Bok- 
harian  merchants. 

So  far  as  concerned  the  Englishmen,  the  Emir 
declared  that  they  had  presented  a  letter  to  him, 
in  which  they  said  that  their  Queen  desires 
to  be  on  friendly  terms  with  Bokhara,  in  conse- 
quence of  which  he  had  himself  written  to  the 
Queen,  and  on  receiving  an  answer  would  des- 
patch them  both  direct  to  England. 

In  conclusion  the  Dostrakhanshi  told  me  by 
order  of  his  master,  that  the  Emir  entertained  sin- 
cere feelings  of  friendship  and  respect  towards  the 
Emperor. 

Such  was  the  result  of  Butenef's  mission.  It 
is  clear  that  the  Emir  did  not  wish  to  come  to  any 
arrangement  on  the  proposed  points,  and  would 


450  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

not  bind  himself  to  anything  ;  his  haughty  answers, 
and  their  indehcate  communication  to  the  agent, 
required  the  adoption  of  decisive  measures  on  the 
part  of  the  Russian  Government. 

After  all  this,  the  Emir  had  yet  the  assurance  to 
give  orders  for  equipping  an  embassy  to  Russia, 
and  on  another  occasion  displayed  the  same  un- 
ceremonious behaviour  tow^ards  the  Russian  agent. 

"During  the  night  of  the  19 — 20  April,"  vs^rites 
Butenef,  "  the  mission  started  on  its  way  back, 
taking  with  it  three  old  Russians,  two  of  whom 
had  lost  their  legs,  and  as  they  were  perfectly  un- 
serviceable we  hoped  that  they  would  be  permitted 
to  follow  us.  But  even  this  benevolent  design 
was  frustrated,  as  on  the  22nd  of  April,  they  were 
taken  away  from  us  on  approaching  the  town  of 
Vardanzi." 

On  the  23rd  of  May,  the  mission  reached  the 
Syr,  where  it  was  received  with  every  respect  by 
the  commander  of  the  neighbouring  Khivan 
fortress,  and  continued  its  journey  on  the  26th. 

A  Bokharian  caravan,  which  was  accompanied 
by  Karaul-Begi,  Hudoyar,  the  newly  appointed 
envoy  to  Russia,  left  Bokhara  immediately  after 
the  departure  of  the  Russian  mission.  His  caravan 
bivouacked  for  two  days  together  with  the  Russians 


Scientific  Results  of  the  Expedition.       451 

on  the  banks  of  the  Syr,  but  the  Bokharian  envoy 
did  not  once  condescend  to  visit  the  Russian 
agent. 

On  the  18th  of  June  the  mission  arrived  Safely 
at  Orenburg.  The  total  cost  of  this  expedition  to 
the  Russian  Government  was  6000  gold  ducats. 

Although  the  negotiations  were  unsuccessful, 
yet  great  acquisitions  were  made  to  science  during 
the  eight  months'  sojourn  of  the  mission  at 
Bokhara.  The  results  obtained  in  this  respect 
were :  a  collection  of  geological  and  chmatological 
notes  by  Mr.  Butenef,  a  diary  of  events  by  Mr. 
Lehmann,  a  statistical  description  of  the  Khanat 
of  Bokhara  by  Khanykof,  and  what  is  more  im- 
portant, extensive  surveys  were  made,  which  sup- 
plied us  with  information  completely  new  on  parts 
of  the  country  of  which  our  former  knowledge  was 
very  confused.  Knowing  the  suspicious  nature 
of  the  Asiatics,  it  is  a  matter  of  surprise  that  Mr. 
Yakovlef,  the  topographer,  should  have  succeeded 
in  surveying  and  portraying  such  an  extensive 
tract  of  country  so  accurately  as  he  did.  The 
portions  surveyed  were  the  route  of  the  mission 
from  the  Syr,  across  the  Kuvan  and  Yany-Darias 
to  Bokhara ;  the  road  from  Bokhara  along 
the  Zarafshan  to  Samarcand,  together  with  plans 


152  Travels  hi  Central  Afiia. 

of  the  towns  of  Samarcand  and  Bokhara  and 
their  vichiitiea.  A  map  of  the  Bokharian  dominions 
was  also  constrncted  by  Mr.  Yakovlef,  and  the 
ronte  of  the  mission  back  to  Bish-Tamak  settle- 
ment was  traced  on  it. 

It  may  not  be  out  of  place  to  quote  here  the 
words  of  Mr.  Khanykof,  who  took  an  active  part 
in  the  negotiations,  from  his  letter  to  General 
Perovski,  which  he  wrote  on  his  return  from 
Bokhara . — 

"The  results  gained  by  oxw  mission  were  exactly 
the  same  as  those  obtained  by  all  former  missions 
despatched  to  Bokhara  since  the  days  of  Boris 
Godunof, — that  is,  we  brought  back  assurances  of 
friendship  from  the  Emir,  and  a  decided  refusal  to 
the  moderate  demands  of  the  Russian  Government ; 
but  even  this  refusal  was  in  a  measure  satisfactory, 
as  it  was  accompanied  by  a  permission  to  quit 
Bokhara,  where,  towards  the  latter  part  of  our 
stay  A\e  were  apprehensi\c  of  sharing  the  fate  of 
the  two  Englishmen,  on  the  least  suspicion  of  the 
Emir." 

One  would  suppose  from  our  knowledge  of  the 
Asiatic  character,  that  the  last  words  of  ]\Ir. 
Khanykof  betray  the  cause  of  failure  of  the  mis- 
sion,   did    not    the    conduct     of   another    Russian 


Effrontery  of  the  Bokhnrlans.  453 

agent,  Mr.  Nikiforof  at  Khiva,  prove  that  boldness 
and  even  audacity  were  equally  unsuccessful. 

Four  days  after  Butenef's  arrival  at  Orenburg, 
the  new  Bokharian  envoy,  Hudoyar-Klychbai, 
arrived  at  the  Rudnikof  picket  station  with  a  suite 
of  seventeen  men.  In  addition  to  letters  for  the 
Emperor,  and  other  high  officers,  he  brought  a 
bale  of  shawls  and  five  arghamaks  as  presents. 

As  already  observed,  the  despatch  of  this 
envoy,  after  the  treatment  experienced  by  the 
Russian  mission,  was  a  piece  of  efirontery  truly 
Asiatic;  the  presents  of  shawls  and  arghamaks 
could  not  efi'ace  the  sense  of  injury  produced  on 
the  Russian  Government  by  the  last  acts  of  the 
Emir.  The  Chancellor,  in  his  letter  to  the 
Governor  of  Orenburg,  says :  "In  addition  to  the 
insignificant  rank  of  the  envoy,  Hudoyar,  permis- 
sion for  proceeding  to  St.  Petersburg  cannot  be 
granted  him,  particularly  after  the  inattention  and 
rudeness  shewn  by  the  Bokharian  Government  to- 
wards Colonel  Butenef,  shortly  before  his  departure 
from  Bokhara.  Taking  into  consideration,  however, 
that  the  conduct  of  the  Emir  was  the  result  of 
barbarous  ignorance,  and  might  partly  be  at- 
tributive to  his  elation  on  his  recent  successes  in 
Kokan,  the  letters  which  the  envoy  brings  may  be 


454  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

received  from  him  and  forwarded  to  St.  Petersbm-g. 
The  presents  are  not  to  be  accepted,  and  the 
money  allowance  for  the  envoy  and  suite  is  to  be 
fixed  as  moderately  as  possible. 

Hudoyar  resolutely  refused  to  give  up  the 
letters  he  bore  to  any  person  at  Orenburg,  and 
declared  that  he  would  be  compelled  to  do  so  by 
force  alone;  he  at  the  same  time  returned  the 
provision  money,  that  had  been  paid  him  at  the 
rate  of  80  cop.  silver,  per  diem  for  himself,  and 
40  and  15  cop.  for  his  suite.  Another  demand 
for  the  letters  having  been  again  refused,  Hudoyar 
was  desired  to  leave  Orenburg,  with  a  notification 
of  the  Emperor's  displeasure  at  the  disregard  paid 
to  Butenef's  demands.  He  was  told  :  "  Assurances 
of  friendship  alone,  unsupported  by  corresponding 
actions,  cannot  inspire  confidence  towards  the 
Bokharian  Government,  which,  to  regain  the  good 
will  of  the  Emperor,  should  immediately  liberate 
the  Russian  prisoners  in  Bokhara  and  the  two 
Englishmen — Stoddart  and  ConoUy." 

But  while  this  was  being  written,  Stoddart  and 
ConoUy  were  no  longer  among  the  living  ;  in  the 
month  of  June  they  were  publicly  beheaded  in  the 
chief  square  of  Bokhara,  and  the  last  Russian  pri- 
soners only  received  their  freedom  in  1858,   on  the 


Cessation  of  Diplomatic  Intercourse.        455 

vtrgent  demands  of  General  Ignatief,  the  last 
Russian  agent  sent  to  Bokhara. 

Thus  terminated  the  six  years'  ahnost  uninter- 
rupted diplomatic  relations  between  Russia  and 
Bokhara,  which  were  entered  into,  on  the  Emir's 
part,  from  cupidity  and  apprehensions  for  the 
political  existence  of  his  dominions,  while  on  the 
part  of  Russia,  they  were  maintained  with  the 
object  of  freeing  the  Russian  slaves,  developing 
Russian  trade  in  Asia  on  a  more  secure  basis,  and 
thereby  increasing  the  influence  of  Russia  in 
the  Turan,  which  belongs  to  her  by  right  of  civihza- 
tion. 

The  interchange  of  friendly  civilities  during  the 
six  years,  with  the  entertainment  of  envoys  and 
transmission  of  presents,  cost  the  Russian  Govern- 
ment 20,000  silver  roubles,  in  addition  to  which, 
the  expense  of  sending  two  agents  to  Bokhara  was 
8700  ducats. 


CHAPTER     XII. 


Oil    Ike     Commercial    Prospects    of   Central    Jxia 
viewed  in    connexion  with  Russia. 


The  niunber  of  Turkmen,  Kirghiz-Kaisaks  and 
other  nomad  hordes  in  Central  Asia  is  computed 
at  three  milUons,  and  the  settled  population  at  more 
than  five  millions.  The  intercourse  of  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Central  Asia  with  their  neighbom's  on  the 
other  side  of  the  mountains  is  \  ery  limited,  partly 
on  account  of  the  impassable  character  of  the  roads, 
and  partly  from  a  similarity  in  their  productions, 
which  prevent  their  having  anything  to  exchange 
with  each  other. 

From    China,    however,    there    is    some    traffic 


state  of  Traih'  in  Central  A^ia.  457 

through  Kuldja  and  Chuguchak,  on  one  side,  and 
Kashgar  on  the  other,  principally  in  tea,  the  use  of 
which  is  widely  spread  in  Central  Asia,  as  also  in 
China  porcelain  ware  to  a  limited  extent.  Silver, 
in  bars  and  ingots,  used  to  be  formerly  imported  by 
this  route. 

Sugar,  indigo,  cotton  stuffs  (to  a  small  extent), 
and  cashmere  shawls  are  imported  from  India. 
From  Persia  the  chief  item  of  trade,  in  addition  to 
an  inconsiderable  amount  of  European  goods,  con- 
sists of  Persian  slaves,  captured  by  the  Turkmen. 

Of  much  greater  importance  is  the  internal  trade 
of  the  Central-Asiatic  countries,  and  their  dealings 
with  Russia.  The  Kirghizes  and  Turkmen  are  ex- 
clusively engaged  in  cattle-breeding,  and,  in  ex- 
change for  the  produce  of  their  flocks  and  herds, 
procure  all  their  manufactured  articles  of  consump- 
tion from  the  Russians,  Kokanians,  Bokharians,  and 
Khivans.  Since  a  very  distant  period,  the  Asiatics 
have  been  supplied  with  iron,  copper  and  hardware 
of  every  description  from  Russia. 

Towards  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  when  the 
treasures  amassed  by  Nadir-Shah  had  become  distri- 
buted in  Asia,  gold  or  silver  was  the  medium  of 
exchange  for  Russian  merchandize.  Subsequently, 
however,  as  the  country  to  the  East  of  the  Volga 

H  H 


458  Travels  in  Central  Asi 


a. 


and  Siberia  commenced  to  be  populated,  the  use  of 
the  cotton  fabrics  of  Bokhara  and  Khiva  became  so 
general,  that  the  demand  for  Russian  manufactures 
declined  considerably ;  a  large  quantity  of  the 
precious  metals  was,  therefore,  yearly  exported  into 
the  countries  of  Central  Asia  from  Russia. 

The  quantity  of  gold  obtained  in  the  Khanats  of 
Bokhara  and  Kokan  is  so  small  that  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  different  Central-Asiatic  States  are 
compelled  to  have  recourse  to  Russia  for  the 
precious  metals  of  which  they  stand  in  need.  This 
being  the  case,  whatever  may  be  the  state  of  trade 
between  Russia  and  Central  Asia,  gold  and  silver 
must  necessarily  form  one  of  the  items  of  the 
Russian  export  trade  to  Central  Asia. 

Now  that  Russia  is  endeavoiu-ing  to  develop  her 
manufacturing  industry,  her  commercial  interests 
have  become  altered.  She  is  endeavouring  to  find 
a  market  for  her  fabrics,  and  although  she  cannot 
compete  with  the  productions  of  Western  Europe, 
she  can  at  all  events  rely  on  the  superiority  of  her 
wares  over  Asiatic  goods ;  and  the  markets  of 
Central  Asia  being  inaccessible  to  European  goods, 
must  present  a  sm-er  guarantee  for  the  cons\imption 
of  Russian  manufactures,  on  account  of  Russia 
being  the  only  consumer  of  Central  Asiatic 
commodities. 


statistics  of  Exports  and  Imports.         459 

Let  us  examine  the  present  condition  of  the 
Russian  trade  with  Central  Asia  after  its  existence 
of  a  century  and  a  half. 

According  to  the  Custom  House  returns  the 
value  of  goods  exported  beyond  the  Orenburg  and 
Siberian  liaes  was  as  follows  : — 

In  1835  ...  Roubles  silver  ...  1,850,000  (£277,500.) 

1845  „                2,000,000  (£300,000.) 

1855  „                2,580,000  (£387,000.) 

1860  „                4,900,000  (£735,000.) 

Imported  into  Russia : — 


In  1835  .. 

, .  Roubles  silver  . 

..  2,400,000 

(£360,000.) 

1845 

,, 

2,520,000 

(£278,000 ) 

1855 

a 

4,179,000 

(£626,800.) 

1860 

If 

8,000,000 

(£1,200,000.) 

From  two-thirds  to  three-fourths  of  the  total  amount 
of  imports  and  exports  are  to  carried,  according  to 
official  accounts,  to  the  Kirghiz  Steppe,  half  of  the 
remainder  to  Bokhara,  and  the  other  to  Kokan 
and  Khiva.  At  present  the  preponderance  is  in 
favour  of  Bokhara  both  as  regards  exports  and 
imports,  in  consequence  of  the  troubles  in  Kokan 
and  Khiva,  and  of  these  countries  being  obliged  to 
purchase  Russian  goods  almost  exclusively  through 
Bokharian  middle  men. 

Until  very  lately  cotton  manufactures  constituted 

H  H  2 


460  Travels  in  Cent  ml  Asia. 

in  vahie  little  less  than  one-half  of  the  total  of 
goods  exported;  in  1860  they  had  already  ex- 
ceeded that  figure.  In  that  ^ear  goods  of  this  class 
were  exported  to  the  amount  of  2,667,000  roubles 
(£400,000),  of  which  only  1 ,650,000  roubles'  worth 
(£247,500)  was  sent  to  the  Kirghiz  Steppe,  and 
826,000  (£123,900)  to  Bokhara.  The  propor- 
tion of  cotton  goods  despatched  to  the  Kirghiz 
Steppe  has  remained  up  to  the  present  time  un- 
altered as  compared  witli  the  total  amount  of  goods 
sent  to  Central  Asia.  A  rapid  increase  is  observable 
in  the  export  of  these  goods  to  Bokhara,  where,  in 
1S55,  their  value  was  only  154,000  S.  R., 
while  in  1860  it  had  attained  826,000  S.  R., 
and  as  this  increase  corresponds  with  the 
considerable  falling  off  in  the  exports  to  Kokan 
and  Khiva,  it  must  be  supposed  that  a  portion  of 
the  cotton  manufactures  sent  to  Bokhara  must 
have  afterwards  reached  the  neighboiu'ing  Khanats. 
The  remaining  exports  to  Central  Asia,  classed 
according  to  their  total  \'a.lue,  are  yufta  or  leather 
to  the  amount  of  400,000  S.  R.  (£60,000) ;  corn, 
300,000  S.  R.  (£45,000)  ;  cloth,  227,000  S.  R. 
(£34,500) ;  hardware,  200,000  S.  R.  (£30,000) ; 
lump  sugar,  90,000  S.  R.  (£13,500) ;  iron,  70,000 
S.  R.  (£10,500) ;   manufactured  leather,  37,000  S. 


Alteration  of  Imports  in  25  Years.         461 

R.  (£5,500);  dye  stuffs,  65,000  S.  R.  (£9,750); 
copper,  58,000  S.  R.  (£8,700);  wooden  chests, 
25,000  S.  R.  (£3,750) ;  after  which  follow  silk  and 
woollen  goods,  &c. 

The  relation  of  these  several  items  to  the  total 
sum  of  goods  exported  has  remained  almost  un- 
altered during  the  last  thirty  years.  Corn  is 
exclvisively  disposed  of  to  the  Kirghizes,  who  are 
also  large  purchasers  of  yufta  and  of  a  large  pro- 
portion of  the  cloth  and  hardware. 

The  condition  of  the  import  trade  is  more 
remarkable.  Prom  1835  to  1860  its  value  has 
increased  to  333,  while  during  the  same  period  the 
exports  only  rose  260,  per  cent.  Relatively  the 
different  items  of  the  import  trade  have  alto- 
gether changed,  as  will  appear  from  the  following 
data: — The  value  of  the  cotton  goods  brought  to  Rus- 
sia from  Central  Asia  formed,  in  1 835,  three  and  six- 
tenths,  and  in  1845  one-quarter  of  the  general 
imports;  in  1855  it  was  only  one- tenth,  and  in 
1860  less  than  one-twelfth. 

Silk  and  woollen  goods  were  never  imported  in 
any  large  quantities.  The  latter  consist  chiefly  of 
Kirghiz  felt.  The  total  value  of  silk  and  woollen 
fabrics  imported  in  1835  amounted  to  35,000 
silver  roubles,  while  in  1860,  it  reached  135,000 
silver  roubles  (£5250  to  £15,750). 


463 


Travels  in  Central  Asid. 


The  chief  increase  was  on  the  item  of  cattle  pro- 
duce, siipplied  by  the  Kirghizes,  and  on  that  of 
raw  cotton  from  Bokhara.  The  value  of  cattle — 
particularly  sheep — driven  to  the  line  in 


1835     was      850,000  silver  roubles 

(£127.500.) 

1845 

,       830,000 

(£124,500.) 

1855 

,    1,600,000 

(£240,000.) 

1860 

,    3,644,000 

(£546,600.) 

Raw   hides. 

1835 

38,000 

(£5,700.) 

,, 

1860 

,       750,000 

(£112,500.) 

Wool, 

1S35 

7,000 

(£1,050.) 

„ 

1860      , 

86,000 

(£12,900.) 

showing  an  increase  from  37  to  60  per  cent. 

From  l.s;35  to  1860,  the  quantity  of  raw  cotton 
imported  rose  from  11,929  puds  (430,0001bs.)  to 
174,059  puds  (6,366,000  lbs.),  and  cotton  yarn  fell 
from  36,938  puds  (970,000  lbs.)  to  5,347  puds 
(31,500  lbs.).  Madder,  which  in  1835  was  not 
imported  at  all,  now  figures  for  24,533  puds 
(883,000  lbs.),  inlS60. 

The  importation  of  fruit  has  increased  tenfold 
during  the  last  twenty-five  years,  and  amounted  in 
value  in  1860  to  190,000  puds  (6,840,000  lbs.). 
Raw  silk  appears  to  form  a  new  branch  of  trade, 
and  799  puds  of  it  were  imported  in  1860  from 
Bokhara.  The  Baikof  and  brick  teas,  which,  since 
the  opening  of  the  Russian  factories  at  Kuldja  and 


Import  of  Speck'  into  Central  Asia.        463 

Chuguchak,  are  imported  from  Chinese  Turkestan. 
The  value  of  the  tea  brought  across  the  Kirghiz 
Steppe  in  1855,  was  450,000  silver  roubles,  and 
only  185,000  in  1860. 

IVom  this  it  will  appear  that  the  Russian  trade 
with  Central  Asia  is  developing  itself  steadily  and 
rapidly,  and  assuming  an  aspect  particularly  fa- 
vourable for  Russia,  for  whose  manufactures  there  is 
an  increasing  demand  in  Central  Asia,  whence  she 
obtains  her  raw  produce  in  return. 

It  is  very  significant,  however,  that  the  value  of 
the  imports  far  exceeds  that  of  the  exports,  and 
that  the  proportion  in  favour  of  the  import  trade  is 
constantly  rising.  But,  considering  the  barbarous 
and  poor  condition  of  the  inhabitants  of  Central 
Asia,  and  their  commercial  relations  with  India, 
Persia,  and  China,  from  whence  they  procure 
indigo,  cotton  stuffs,  and  tea,  for  which,  having  no 
suitable  commodities  to  offer  their  neighbours  in 
return,  they  are  obliged  to  pay  in  specie,  only  ob- 
tainable from  Russia,  it  is  not  sm-prising,  under 
such  circumstances,  that  there  should  be  a  constant 
drain  of  Russian  gold  and  silver  to  Central  Asia. 

An  approximate  equalization  of  the  balance  of 
trade  cannot  even  be  hoped  for,  as  in  civilized  coun- 
tries the  wants  of  a  people  grow  in  proportion  to  their 


464  Traceh  in  Ceulral  J.va. 

means,  and  the  more  barbarous  they  are  the  longer 
is  the  time  required  for  developing  these  wants. 
While  the  cattle  produce  of  the  wandering  tribes 
is  yearly  becoming  of  greater  importance  to  Russia, 
and  while  (in  consequence  of  the  American  crisis) 
the  demand  for  Bokharian  cotton  is  unlimited, 
even  the  secondary  productions  of  Central  Asia — 
such  as  rice  and  dried  fruit — can  find  a  ready  sale. 

Putting  aside  the  question  of  Bokharian  cotton, 
the  demand  for  which  at  present  is  urgent,  though 
probably  only  temporary,  it  must  be  acknowledged 
that  Khiva,  Bokhara,  and  Kokan  are,  in  commer- 
cial respects,  much  more  dependent  on  Russia  than 
Russia  is  on  them,  as  these  countries  have  no  other 
sources  for  procuring  iron,  copper,  gold,  hardware, 
wood-work,  yufta,  and  dyes. 

Without  Russian  gold  or  other  Russian  commo- 
dities, they  cannot  pay  for  the  tea,  sugar,  indigo, 
&c.,  sent  from  China  and  India.  Russia  only  re- 
quires sheep,  hides,  and  wool,  which  are  the  pro- 
ductions of  the  Kirghiz  Steppes  subject  to  her, 
and  in  these  Steppes  she  disposes  of  the  greater 
))ortion  of  the  goods  despatched  by  her  to  Central 
Asia. 

In  the  face  of  such  a  state  of  dependence  of  the 
Central  Asiatic  Khanats  on  Russia,  the  Government 


DevelopiiKJit  of  Trade  with  the  Kirghizes.  4G5 

of  this  country  have  it  always  in  their  power  to 
force  the  Khanats  to  yield  to  their  wishes,  by 
threatening  an  interruption  of  commercial  relations, 
but  it  must  be  observed  that  every  stoppage  in  the 
trade  would  impose  a  loss  on  Russian  manufac- 
tm-ers.  Such  a  peaceable  measure  would  thus  be 
more  prejudicial  to  the  Empire  than  the  employ- 
ment of  military  force. 

With  regard  in  particular  to  the  Kirghiz-Kaisak 
encampments,  the  degree  of  their  productiveness 
and  well-being  depends  chiefly  on  the  state  of 
order  and  security  in  the  Steppe,  and  this  cannot 
be  maintained  without  the  assistance  of  troops  and 
the  construction  of  a  large  number  of  forts  against 
the  marauding  Khivans  and  Kokanians. 

The  rapid  development  of  trade  with  the  Kir- 
ghizes has  been  the  result  of  measures  recently 
adopted  by  the  Russian  Government  for  their  pro- 
tection. 

However  great  the  benefit  which  has  been  reaped 
from  their  measures  adopted  up  to  the  present 
time,  they  are  still  insufficient  for  the  complete 
pacification  of  the  Kirghizes,  owing  partly  to  the 
fact  that  between  the  last  posts  on  the  Siberian 
and  Orenburg  line,  there  is  an  unoccupied  extent 
of  400  versts  through  which  the  Tashkendians  and 


466  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

Kokanians  freely  make  irruptions  into  the  Steppe 
and  pillage  the  Kirghizes,  as  also  to  the  left  bank 
of  the  Syr-Daria  presenting  rich  pasturages  along 
which  there  were  formerly  irrigated  fields,  which 
are  now  entirely  deserted  in  consequence  of  the 
fears  inspired  by  the  inroads  of  the  Kokanians. 
Here,  as  elsewhere,  security  is  the  first  element  of 
increasing  commerce  and  its  abundant  civilizing 
influences.  The  more  prosperous  the  condition  of 
the  Kirghizes,  the  greater  will  be  the  development 
of  Russian  trade  with  them.  The  Russian  Govern- 
ment, therefore,  in  the  interests  of  the  Kirghizes 
themselves,  whom  it  has  taken  under  its  protection 
and  with  whom  a  trade  amounting  to  more  than 
eight  million  roubles  silver  (£1,266,000)  is  yearly 
carried  on,  will  find  itself  forced  to  follow  up  the 
policy  it  has  laid  down. 

Russian  manufactures  cannot  compete  in  point 
of  cheapness  with  the  productions  of  Western 
Em'ope,  and  are  diiven  out  of  all  the  markets  in 
which  they  meet ;  and  hence  even  on  the  Southern 
sea- board  of  Persia,  which  is  as  easy  of  access  to 
Russia  as  the  communication  between  Persia  and 
Western  Em'ope  is  difficult,  it  is  only  the  raw  pro- 
duce of  Russia  that  finds  purchasers. 

With    the  Oldening  of  the  Chinese  ports    to  all 


Provisions  of  Musso-Chinese  Treaty.        467 

the  European  nations,  it  is  to  be  apprehended 
that  the  sale  of  Russian  goods  will  all  but  cease  in 
China ;  the  only  available  maxket  for  them  in  that 
case  will  be  that  of  Central  Asia,  which  is  closed 
in  on  all  sides  except  to  the  north  by  insuperable 
physical  obstacles.  Similarly  placed  with  regard 
to  Russia  are  the  markets  of  Chinese  Tm'kestan,  or 
Little  Bokhara,  which  are  also  shut  off  from  the 
whole  world,  as  they  can  only  communicate  with 
the  distant  provinces  of  China  on  the  East,  and 
with  Russia  and  Kokan  on  the  West  and 
North. 

According  to  the  treaty  concluded  with  China, 
in  1851,  Russian  traders  are  allowed  to  visit  two 
towns  of  Eastern  Turkestan,  Kuldja  and  Chugu- 
chak ;  but  these  are  situated  in  a  thinly  populated 
country,  and  serve  only  as  military  outposts  of 
the  Chinese  empire.  On  this  account,  like  Mai- 
matchen  in  Mongolia,  they  are  mere  transit  depots 
of  tea,  and  have  hardly  any  independent  trade  of 
their  own. 

To  the  South  of  Kuldja,  separated  from  Chinese 
Turkestan  by  the  Thian-Shan  range,  is  little  Bok- 
hara, surrounded  on  three  sides  by  almost  inacces- 
sible moimtains,  and  open  only  on  the  East  where  it 
merges  in  the  desert  of  Gobi. 


468  Traoek  in  Central  Asia. 

Russian  goods  may  be  introduced  into  Little 
Bokhara  by  two  routes ;  by  the  Northern,  from 
Kuldja  to  Aksii,  and  by  the  Western,  from 
Kokan  to  Kashgar.  Both  traverse  ridges  of  snow- 
clad  mountains ;  but  camels  it  is  said  can  travel 
along  the  first  road,  while  the  second  can  only  be 
passed  by  pack-horses  with  a  burthen  of  not  more 
than  eight  puds  (about  •l\  cwt.  English).  About 
3500  of  such  caravan  horses  pass  along  this  road 
annually. 

The  road  to  Kuldja  is  less  frequented  by  trade- 
caravans  than  the  Kokanian  route,  Avhich  leads 
through  a  country  similar  to  Little  Bokhara,  in 
origin,  faith  and  historical  traditions,  whereas 
Kuldja  is  the  placer  of  residence  of  the  Chinese 
authorities,  agamst  whom  the  Mussulmen  cherish 
an  antipathy  amounting  to  deep  hatred.  As  already 
mentioned,  caraxans  travel  in  eighteen  days  from 
Kokan  to  Kashgar,  while  the  distance  between 
Kuldja  to  Aksu  is  reckoned  at  100  versts.  Prom 
Aksii  to  Peldn,  the  journey  of  a  caravan  occupies 
from  four  and  a  half  to  five  months.  The  incessant 
warfare  carried  on  by  the  Little  Bokharians  with 
the  Chinese  ever  since  1825  has  desolated  an 
extensive  tract  of  country  which  was  once  rich 
and  populous. 


Prospects  of  Bussuin  T)-ade  in  Central  Asia.  469 

The  Central  Asiatic  market  can  thus  be  extended 
across  the  Celestial  Mountains,  but  to  effect  this 
Russian  traders  must  first  of  all  be  allowed  to 
penetrate  into  Little  Bokhara,  which  is  closed 
against  them  at  present. 

The  total  value  of  Russian  goods  now  annually 
disposed  of  in  Central  Asia  does  not  exceed  five 
million  roubles  (£750,000),  and  deducting  that  of 
the  Kirghiz  Steppe,  the  whole  trade  will  not  amomit 
to  more  than  two  millions  (£300,000).  This 
amount  is  doubtless  very  insignificant,  but  follow- 
ing the  example  of  England,  whose  commerce  en- 
circles the  world,  and  now  spares  no  efforts  in  dis- 
covering new  markets  for  her  manufactm'es,  Russia 
must  direct  particular  attention  towards  developing 
her  trade  with  Central  Asia,  which  is  almost  the  only 
country  in  which  there  still  exists  a  demand  for 
Russian  manufactures,  especially  as  this  demand 
is  yearly  increasing. 

It  is  of  course  impossible  to  say  what  limits 
Russian  trade  with  Central  Asia  might  reach 
under  favourable  conditions ;  it  will  be  sufficient 
to  observe  that  Persia,  with  its  population  of  about 
five  millions,  receives,  by  way  of  Trebisond  and 
Erzerum,  European  goods  to  the  amount  of  four 
million  roubles   (£600,000)  annually;  while  from 


470  Tiaveln  in  Central  Asia. 

Russia  the  exports  to  that  country  amounted  during 
the  same  period  to  only  one  and  a  half  millions 
(£237,500),  while  a  considerable  quantity  of  mer- 
chandize is  sent  from  India  by  way  of  the  Persian 
Gulf.  Two-thirds  of  the  goods  imported  from 
Europe  into  Persia  consists  of  cotton  fabrics,  not- 
withstanding that  cotton  is  grown  and  manufac- 
tured in  almost  every  part  of  Persia ! 

This  illustration  is  a  proof  of  the  extent  to 
which  the  Russian  trade  with  Central  Asia  might 
be  developed,  particularly  as  Russia  presents  so 
extensive  a  market  for  the  produce  of  Bokhara, 
Kokan  and  Khiva,  and  furnishes  these  Khanats 
with  the  means  of  purchasing  her  goods.  Silk 
being  the  only  commodity  that  Persia  sends  to 
Europe,  she  experiences  great  difficulty  in 
paying  for  the  goods  she  receives,  and  is  extricated 
therefrom  by  Russian  gold,  to  which  is  probably 
attributable  the  diplomatic  myth  of  secret  relations 
between  Russia  and  Persia — the  one  the  head  of 
the  Greek  church,  the  other  that  of  the  great  Ma- 
hometan schism. 

Unfortmiately  for  Russia,  even  the  Bokharians, 
the  most  civilized  of  the  Central  Asiatics,  are  far 
more  barbarous  than  the  Persians,  and  it  therefore 
cannot   be  expected  that  there  will  be  tlie  same 


Cotton  Fabrics  suitable  for  Trade.         471 

demand  for  European  goods  in  Bokhara  that 
there  is  now  in  Persia  until  a  considerable  time 
shall  have  elapsed. 

As  three-fifths  of  the  inhabitants  of  the 
Central  Asiatic  depression  may  be  said  to  consist  of 
wandering  tribes,  who  are  forced  to  purchase  from 
their  neighbours  everything  that  is  not  yielded 
them  by  their  herds,  they  will  as  readily  have 
recourse  to  Russia  as  to  Khiva  and  Bokhara  for 
these  requirements,  as  long  as  they  can  seU  theu' 
cattle,  hides,  and  wool  to  the  traders  of  the  former 
country. 

Similarly,  as  soon  as  the  Khivans  and  Bok- 
harians  find  it  more  advantageous  to  dispose  of 
their  raw  cotton  and  silk  to  Russia,  instead  of 
using  these  articles  in  a  manufactured  state,  they 
will  purchase  every  description  of  fabric  from 
Russia  in  exchange  for  the  raw  material.  It  is 
plain  therefore,  that  under  such  conditions,  the 
Russian  trade  with  Central  Asia  might  be  largely 
developed,  but  to  accomplish  this,  it  is  requisite 
among  other  things,  that  the  Russian  cotton- 
fabrics  should  be  of  a  closer  texture  than  they  are 
at  present,  as  the  natives  of  the  Khanats  pay  more 
regard  to  durability  than  to  fine  finish.  But  as 
the   price   of  stout   textures    depends   more   par- 


472  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

ticularly  on  the  price  of  the  material  out  of  which 
they  are  manufactured,  it  will  be  necessary,  in 
order  to  enable  the  Russian  cotton-goods  to  com- 
pete advantageously  with  the  Bokharian,  that  the 
cost  of  the  cotton  used  by  Russian  looms  should 
be  as  little  as  may  be  higher  than  the  cost  of  the 
material  to  the  Bokharian  producer,  and  this  can 
only  be  attained  by  a  reduction  of  the  transit  duty, 
facilitation  of  transport  by  good  roads,  &c.,  and  bv 
establishing  spinning  and  Aveaving  manufactories  at 
a  short  distance  from  the  Bokharian  frontier. 

Slight  cotton  fabrics,  distinguished  merely  for 
their  finish  and  cheapness,  are  chiefly  imported 
into  Persia  from  England.  That  these  goods  meet 
with  a  large  sale,  is  due  to  the  circmustance  that 
the  Persians  are  fond  of  luxury,  and  that  their  own 
coarse  manufactures  find  a  demand  in  the  R\issian 
Trans-Caucasian  provinces.  "\"\'ere  it  not  for  this 
latter  circumstance,  the  sale  of  English  prints  in 
Persia  would  be  reduced  fully  one-half. 

Prom  the  foregoing  considerations  and  statistics, 
it  will  appear  that  the  extension  of  Russian  trade 
in  Central  Asia,  depends  mainly  on  two  conditions, 
on  the  importation  of  raw  goods  from  Central  Asia 
into  Russia,  particularly  cotton,  and  cattle  pro- 
duce, and  on  the  niauguration  of  a  reign  of  peace, 
order,  and  jirosperity  in  these  regions. 


Prospects  of  Cotton  Growing  in  Bokhara.   473 

The  demand  for  the  raw  productions  of  Central 
Asia  must  increase  annually,  and  the  prices,  espe- 
cially on  cattle  produce,  wiU  constantly  rise,  and 
that  care  should  only  be  taken  to  increase  the 
supply  of  these  products.  As  regards  cotton,  as 
it  wiU  have  to  compete  with  the  American  supply, 
its  sale  will  depend  on  its  quality,  price,  and  local 
facilities  for  working. 

The  large  quantities  of  cotton  brought  from 
Bokhara  and  Khiva  yearly  since  1855,  shows  that 
this  cotton  can  be  used  for  different  textures,  and 
that  it  is  capable,  to  a  certain  extent,  of  competing 
with  the  American  staple ;  but,  of  course,  it  can- 
not be  denied  that  under  present  conditions,  the 
Bokharian  cotton  cannot  supersede  the  American, 
and  that  the  Bokharians  themselves  would  not 
now  agree  to  cultivate  a  greater  quantity,  at  the 
prices  till  recently  ruling. 

In  Bokhara  and  Khiva,  the  price  of  cotton  per 
pud,  used  to  range  from  two  to  three  roubles.  The 
Mazanderan,*  which  is  inferior  in  quality,  sells  on 
the  spot  at  three  and  three  and  a  half  roubles 
per  pud,  and  the  price  of  cotton  per  pud  in  the 

*  Mazanderan  is  the  name  of  the  Persian  province  extending  along 
the  South  sliores  of  the  Caspian,  of  which  the  important  port  of 
Balfrush  is  the  chief  city. — [Ed.] 

I  I 


474  2Vare/s  in  Central  Asia. 

Southern  ports  of  America,  was  generally  from  four 
and  a  half  to  five  roubles.  In  England,  the  Indian 
cotton  used  generally  to  fetch  at  least  forty  per 
cent,  lower  than  the  American,  and  the  same 
difference  existed  in  Moscow  in  the  value  of  the 
American  and  Bokharian  cotton.  The  first  was 
sold  at  from  seven  to  eight  and  a  half  roubles,  and 
the  second  from  five  to  six  roubles.  At  present  it 
is  being  sold  at  from  ten  to  twelve  roubles,  and 
the  importation  of  cotton  from  Bokhara  has  con- 
sequently trebled  that  of  the  few  years  imme- 
diately preceding  1861,  reaching  at  present 
500,000  puds  (about  78,000  bales). 

Under  the  stimulus  of  such  prices,  the  Bok- 
harian landholders  can  profitably  convert  their 
ploughed  land  and  vegetable  plantations  into 
cotton  fields,  and  dispose  of  their  produce,  not 
to  local  manufacturers,  but  to  Russian  spinners. 

These  high  prices  are,  however,  accidental,  and 
cannot  long  be  maintained,  and  it  is  therefore  to 
be  feared  that  with  their  fall,  the  exportation  of 
cotton  fi'om  Central  Asia  will  cease. 

It  is,  moreover,  of  such  inferior  quality,  that 
hitherto  it  was  only  used  for  wadding,  and  the 
coarser  sorts  of  twist,  from  No.  12  to  16.  Some 
picked  consignments,  hoAvever,  were  lately  brought 


More  Care  reqirired  in  Growing  Cotton.     475 

to  Russia,  which  produced  yarns  as  fine  as  No. 
28.  This  proves  that  the  same  short-stapled 
cotton,  when  properly  cleaned  of  seed  and  dust, 
and  properly  ginned  and  pressed,  so  that  the  fibres 
lie  straight  and  are  not  tumbled  and  triturated 
in  transit,  at  once  rises  50  per  cent,  in  value. 

If  American  machines  for  cleansing  the  cotton 
could  only  be  introduced  into  Central  Asia,  and 
proper  care  were  observed  in  packing  the  bales  by 
means  of  hydraulic  presses,  the  Bokharian  cotton 
might  in  the  future  even  compete  in  the  Russian 
markets  with  foreign  cotton.  But  these  improve- 
ments can  scarcely  be  expected  until  the  establish- 
ment of  a  Russian  factory  at  or  near  Bokhara, 
where  the  native  growers  might  be  instructed  hi 
the  best  methods  for  cultivating  the  cotton  plant, 
while  the  factory  owner  would  also  exercise  the 
functions  of  a  broker,  in  condemning  all  cotton 
unfit  for  manufacture  in  Russia. 

Under  such  an  arrangement,  the  production  of 
cotton  might  continue  to  be  made  self-supporting 
in  Bokhara,  even  under  a  decline  of  price  in  the 
market.  That  the  Central  Asiatic  States  are 
capable  by  their  geographical  extent  of  supplying 
Russia  with  the  two  millions  of  puds,  which  her 
looms  at  present  annually  produce,   there  cannot 

I  I  2 


476  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

be  the  least  doubt,  as  each  desiatina  yields  not  less 
than  100  puds  of  un cleaned  cotton,  from  which  at 
least  twenty-five  per  cent,  of  clean  cotton  is 
obtained.  Consequently,  for  growing  these 
2,000,000  puds,  80,000  desiafinas  would  be  re- 
quired. According  to  Khanykof,  who  visited 
Bokhara  in  1842,  this  Khanat  contains  500 
square  nailes,  or  2,000,450  desiafinas  of  culti- 
vated land.  Owing  to  the  scarcity  of  water  in 
Bokhara,  which  is  thickly  populated,  a  greater 
quantity  cannot  be  made  available  for  fields  and 
gardens ;  but  in  the  Khanat  of  Khiva,  more 
irrigatory  canals  could  be  conducted  over  the  land 
from  the  Amu-Daria,  if  labouring  hands  were  more 
plentiful ;  while  in  Kokan  there  is  certainly  no 
scarcity  in  suitable  land,  with  suitable  water 
privileges  and  facilities. 

One  of  the  principal  obstacles  to  the  increased 
importation  of  Central  Asiatic  cotton  into  Russia 
is  presented  by  the  cost  and  means  of  transport. 
For  transporting  2,000,000  of  puds  (32,150  tons) 
of  cotton,  not  less  than  100,000  camels  are  required, 
as,  for  long  distances,  these  animals  are  not  loaded 
with  more  than  sixteen  or  eighteen  puds  ;  besides 
which,  tlie  caravan  journey  from  Bokhara  to  Oren- 
burg occupies  from  two  to  two  and  a  half  months. 


Difficulties  for  Want  of  Transport.         477 

Considering,  therefore,  that  the  roads  at  certain 
seasons — owing,  alternately,  to  heat  and  cold — 
are  virtually  impassable,  and  that  the  camels,  for 
this  reason,  cannot  make  more  than  one  journey 
during  the  year,  it  is  evident  that  the  above  quan- 
tity of  cotton  cannot  be  brought  to  Russia  by 
existing  means.  Again,  if  all  the  present  resom'ces 
for  transporting  goods  alone  be  used  for  carrying 
cotton,  the  other  items  of  the  export  trade  of 
Central  Asia  would  necessarily  be  neglected.  But 
even  if  it  were  possible  to  bring  this  vast  quantity 
of  cotton  to  Russia,  without  raising  the  cost  of 
transport  to  a  fabulous  price,  the  question  arises — 
in  what  is  Russia  to  pay  the  Asiatics  for  their 
goods,  before  the  demand  for  her  productions  in- 
creases among  them  ?  If  they  are  to  be  paid  in 
specie  the  cost  of  carriage  will  be  doubled,  as  the 
camels  would  have  to  return  without  a  freight 
back.  A  rapid  growth  in  the  demand  for  Russian 
goods  in  Central  Asia  can,  as  has  already  been 
stated,  only  be  calculated  on  when  tranquillity  and 
order  are  established  in  those  parts. 

Having  thus  become  acquainted  with  the  pre- 
sent state  of  the  commercial  relations  of  Russia 
with  Central  Asia,  and  their  future  prospects,  let 
us  now  examine  the  means  which  might  soonest 
lead  to  the  realization  of  these  views. 


478  Travels  in  Cenlrnl  Asia. 

These  means  must  be  sought  for,  while  bearing 
in  mind  that  there  is  a  twofold  object  to  be 
secured  in  practice  : — first,  to  make  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Central  Asia,  as  far  as  possible,  capable 
of  producing  those  articles  which  Russia  mostly 
requires,  and  willing  to  accept  modern  civilization, 
thus  creating  at  the  same  time  a  large  demand 
for  Russian  goods  in  return  ;  and,  secondly,  to 
lower  the  cost  of  the  land-carriage  of  merchandize 
between  Russia  and  the  Central  Asiatic  States. 

To  accomphsh  the  first  of  these  objects,  it  is 
first  of  all  necessary  to  establish,  as  far  as  it  is 
practicable,  a  feeling  of  security  and  not  of  tran- 
quillity in  these  parts. 

The  "  Barantas  "  or  depredatory  irruptions  into 
the  limits  of  territory,  occupied  by  Russian  troops 
in  the  Kirghiz  Steppe,  have  already  been  almost 
totally  suppressed,  but  at  the  head  of  the  Syr-Daria 
and  along  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  the  Kirghizes 
still  suffer  from  the  robberies  and  extortions  of  the 
Khivans  and  the  Kokanians,  to  which  they  are  to  a 
certain  extent  obhged  to  submit,  being  forced  to 
purchase  their  necessary  supphes  of  com  and 
other  articles  from  them. 

The  Ivirghizes,  however,  are  much  more  seriously 
oppressed  bv  the  Tashkendians  and  Kokanians,  than 


Ncccmit^for  Emcling  New  Forts.         479 

the  Khivans,  and  the  mmiediate  erection  of  a  few 

forts   on   the   Syr-Daria,  above   the   last  Russian 

miUtary  outpost  of  Djulek  44°  55'  N.,  66°  35'  E. 

(approximative),  appears  indispensable.    Fort  No.  1 

is    situated    70   versts    from    the    mouth   of   the 

river,  which  is  crossed  at  that  point  by  caravans 

proceeding  from  Orenburg   to   Bokhara.      Above 

this  fort,  348  versts  higher  up  the  river,  stands 

Port  Perovski,  and  between  the  two,  is  Port  No.  2, 

which,  however,  is  not  of  great  importance.     In 

the  vicinity  of  Port  Perovski,  agriculture  was  at 

one  time  in  a  flourishing   condition,  but  suffers 

now  from  the  difficulty  of  irrigating   the   fields, 

which   is    attributable   to   the  perceptible  fall  in 

the  level  of  the  river  bed  of  the  principal  arm  of 

the  Syr,  the  waters  having  been  diverted  into  a 

newly    established  branch,    called  the  Karanzak, 

which  again  joins  the  main  stream  at  Port  No.  2. 

The  bed  of  the  Karanzak  is  much  lower  than  that 

of  the  other  branches,  and  in  this  way  monopolizes 

the     greater     portion    of    the    waters.      It    has 

but  recently  been  formed  out  of  a  canal  excavated 

by  the  Karakalpaks  for  the  purposes  of  irrigation, 

and  flows  through  a  sandy  tract  of  country  utterly 

unfit  for  cultivation.     The  course  of  this  branch, 

with  its  lagoons  or  overflows,  occupies  2000  square 

versts,  and  owing  to  evaporation,  it  emits  a  great 


480  Travels  la  Central  Asia. 

volume  of  dense  vapour  throughout  this  extent, 
there  is  thus  a  great  waste  of  water,  an  element  of 
such  unspeakable  importance  in  these  parts. 

Persons  who  have  carefully  examined  this  locality 
assert  that  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  dam  up 
the  Karanzak  branch  without  further  delay,  by 
which  means  alone  a  sufficient  body  of  water  will 
be  preserved  in  the  Syr-Daria,  not  only  for  the 
navigation  of  vessels,  but  also  for  supplying  with 
the  requisite  quantity  of  water  the  Southern 
or  Yany-Daria  branch,  which  at  one  period 
reached  the  Sea  of  Aral,  and  whose  banks  were 
formerly  occupied  by  a  chain  of  settlements.  The 
bed  of  this  river  being  more  elevated  than  those  of 
any  of  the  others,  is  more  capable  of  supplying 
the  artificial  water  courses.  The  soil  along  the 
left  bank  of  the  Syr-Daria  is  less  arid  than  that  on 
the  right. 

A  hundred  versts  above  Fort  Perovski,  Port 
Djulek  has  been  founded,  which  fort  is  about  160 
versts  distant  from  the  point  at  which  the  Syr-Daria 
approaches  nearest  to  Tashkend,  this  town  stand- 
ing 50  A  crsts  eastward  of  the  Syr-Daria. 

From  Tashkend,  the  caravan  route  is  185  versts 
to  the  town  of  Kokan,  situated  30  versts  to  the  South- 
ward of  the  Syr,  which  continues  to  be  navigable 
even  for  a  little  distance  above  this  point. 


strategical  Policy  of  Russia.  481 

From  the  extreme  Fort  at  the  Chu-Pishnek  river, 
on  the  Kirghiz-Siberian  line  to  the  river  Syr,  at 
Fort  Djulek,  the  distance  is  estimated  at  400  versts, 
along  a  route  stretching  Northwards  from  the  town 
of  Turkestan,  which  is  subject  to  the  Khan  of 
Kokan. 

Russia  must  gain  a  firm  footing  at  the  head  of 
the  Syr  for  several  reasons :  for  protecting  effec- 
tually the  Kirghizes  from  the  exactions  of  the 
Kokanians  and  Tashkendians ;  for  securing  the 
navigation  along  the  course  of  the  Syr,  as  it  pre- 
sents the  most  convenient  channel  of  communica- 
tion with  Russia,  and  affords  the  only  guarantee 
for  the  safety  of  the  Russian  garrisons  ;  and  lastly, 
for  supplying  both  the  forts  and  steamers  with  fuel, 
either  wood  or  coals,  from  the  Karatau  mountains, 
at  the  foot  of  which  stand  the  towns  of  Tiirkestan 
and  Tashkend,  or  from  the  Ala-tau  range  beyond 
the  town  of  Kokan. 

These  mountains  are  clothed  with  forests,  and 
formations  of  coal  have  been  discovered  in  them. 
The  sand  of  the  rivers  descending  from  them  is 
auriferous,  moreover,  and  the  mountains  themselves 
are  rich  in  various  descriptions  of  mineral  wealth. 

The  present  condition  of  the  garrisons  in  the 
Russian  fortifications  of  the  Steppe,  deprived  of 


482  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

every  convenience,  and  often  wanting  the  neces- 
saries of  life,  is  truly  lamentable ;  and  their  state 
can  only  be  ameliorated  by  maintaining  unrestricted 
communication  by  means  of  the  Syr-Daria,  from  its 
source  to  its  embouchure,  as  only  by  water-carriage 
will  it  be  found  possible  to  supply  them  with  the 
necessaries  they  now  so  much  require. 

The  cost  of  supporting  these  garrisons,  the 
supplies  for  whose  use  must  all  be  sent  from 
Russia,  constitutes  a  serious  item  of  expense  to 
the  Russian  Government,  which  pays  400,000 
roubles  annually  for  the  transport  of  the  provisions 
required  by  the  small  garrisons  of  the  Syr-Daria 
posts.  This  expenditure  wiU  be  saved  as  soon  as 
corn  is  permitted  to  be  purchased  for  the  troops  at 
Tashkend;  and  in  process  of  time,  the  other 
necessaries  of  life  will  be  produced  in  the  neigh- 
boui'hood  of  the  forts,  by  Russian  settlers  and 
Kirghizes. 

The  authorities  at  Orenbm-g  tried  formerly,  by 
every  possible  means,  to  prevent  the  wandering 
Kirghizes  from  adopting  a  settled  mode  of  life,  and 
pursuing  agricultiu'e,  being  afraid  that  cattle- 
rearing  would  be  neglected.  These  apprehensions 
proved,  however,  to  be  ill-founded.  Pirst,  the 
quantity  of   land  available  for  cultivation  is  very 


Odstades  in  the  way  of  Bearing  Cattle.    483 

limited  when  compared  to  the  whole  extent  of  the 
Steppe,  and  therefore  tilled  land  will  always  bear  but 
a  small  proportion  to  the  whole  region ;  secondly,  it 
is  only  the  poorest  Kirghizes  that  become  fixed  and 
stationary,  after  having  lost  their  cattle ;  the  rich 
Kirghizes  employ  workmen  to  cultivate  patches  of 
land  near  their  summer  or  winter  encampments, 
without  abandoning  at  the  same  time  their  roaming 
habits.  In  this  way  the  cultivation  of  the  land 
affords  them  great  assistance,  as  their  families  are 
supplied  with  corn,  which  in  case  of  need  is  also 
given  to  the  cattle. 

The  increase  of  cattle  in  the  Steppe  is  not 
prejudicially  affected  by  a  scarcity  of  breeders,  as 
was  supposed  by  the  local  aiithorities,  but  is 
materially  checked  by  the  great  mortality  among 
the  cattle  from  snow-storms  and  frost,  and  the 
absence  of  shelter  and  fodder  for  the  cattle  during 
the  inclement  winters  of  the  Steppe. 

The  spread  of  agriculture  among  the  Kirghizes 
would  consequently  be  actually  encouraged  by  the 
preservation  and  multiplication  of  cattle  in  the 
Steppe.  Besides  enriching  the  Kirghizes  and 
civilizing  their  natwe,  it  would  produce  a  greater 
demand  for  Russian  productions,  and  render  those 
wandering  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Steppe  more 


4S4  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

independent  of  the  Khivans,  Kokanians,  and 
Bokharians,  from  whom  they  are  now  obhged  to 
procure  their  supplies  of  corn. 

It  does  not,  however,  follow  that  with  the 
diffusion  of  agricultural  pursuits,  the  Kirghizes 
who  roam  near  the  confines  of  the  Orenburg  region 
and  Siberia,  will  cease  to  buy  corn  from  the 
Russians.  On  the  contrary,  as  they  become  more 
accustomed  to  .the  use  of  bread,  the  greater  will  be 
the  demand  for  it  from  Russia,  as  the  Ku-ghizes 
themselves  cannot  produce  the  quantity  sufficient 
for  their  ovra  daily  consumption. 

At  present  the  diet  of  these  wandering  tribes 
consists  almost  entirely  of  meat,  milk,  and  cheese- 
curd  ;  bread  being  very  sparingly  used,  and  con- 
fined to  a  few  of  the  Avealthiest  chiefs.  Were  the 
three  millions  of  Kirghizes  only  to  consume  a 
single  quarter  of  corn  per  head  per  annum, 
Russia  would  export  annually  into  the  Steppe,  not 
100,000  quarters  as  at  present,  but  thirty  times 
that  quantity. 

The  Russian  Government  having  become  con- 
vinced of  the  utility  of  encouraging  the  spread  of 
agriculture  in  the  Kirghiz  Steppe,  and  more 
particularly  along  the  banks  of  the  Syr-Daria, 
where    corn  cannot    be  raised  without  irrigation, 


Good  Policy  of  Encouraging  Agriculture.  4S5 

will  not  fail  to  perceive  the  importance  of 
excavating  and  maintaining  artificial  water  courses 
in  these  parts,  which  indeed  are  objects  of  solici- 
tude even  in  the  most  unsettled  Asiatic  countries. 
By  adopting  measures  for  the  security  of  the 
Kirghizes,  and  by  encouraging  agriculture  among 
them,  the  Russian  Government  will  lay  the  founda- 
tion for  the  futm'e  prosperity  of  the  inhabitants  of 
the  Steppe.  With  regard  to  the  independent 
territories  of  Central  Asia,  it  must  be  observed 
that  in  the  Khanat  of  Bokhara  social  order,  to 
a  certain  extent,  already  exists,  which  may  reach 
the  point  of  development  attainable  in  Asiatic- 
Mussulman  countries,  whereupon  the  turbulence  of 
the  neighbouring  tribes  will  be  subdued,  after 
which  Russian  factories  can  be  established  at 
Bokhara. 

The  Khanat  of  Kokan  is  alternately  under  the 
sway .  of  one  ruler,  or  is  chronically  divided  into 
numerous  petty  territories  at  enmity  with  each 
other.  The  country  of  Kokan  is  richer  than  that 
of  Bokhara  in  the  gifts  of  nature,  but  its  popula- 
tion is  much  more  barbarous,  and  there  is  conse- 
quently greater  reason  for  establishing  the 
civilizing  influence  of  Russia  in  these  parts.  With 
the    restoration    of    peace   and   order,    Kokan    is 


486  Travels  in  Coufral  Asia. 

capable  of  carrying  on  an  extensive  trade  with 
Russia.  The  facility  of  communication  afforded 
by  the  Syr-Daria,  the  navigation  of  which  is 
suspended  only  during  three  or  four  months  in  the 
year,  will  enable  a  Russian  force  to  overawe  the 
countries  bordering  on  the  river. 

The  repression  of  the  Khivans  will  be  a  more 
difficult  task,  but  Russia  cannot  allow  them  to  go 
on  as  they  do  at  present  without  injury  to  her 
general  relations  with  Central  Asia.  The  Khanat 
of  Khiva  is  very  thinly  populated,  and  is  far  from 
possessing  the  natural  riches  with  which  Kokan  is 
endowed. 

This  country  might,  therefore,  be  altogether 
ignored,  were  it  not  for  the  circumstance  that  the 
whole  existence  and  economy  of  Khiva  is  founded 
on  an  institution  which  is  the  cause  of  all  the 
robbery  and  anarchy  in  the  neighbouring  States. 
This  cause,  so  productive  of  evil,  is  slavery.  All 
laborious  work  in  Khiva  is  performed  by  bondsmen, 
and  their  acquisition  consequently  becomes  a 
necessary  condition  for  the  existence  of  the 
Khanat. 

Formerly  there  were  many  Russians  among  the 
slaves  in  Khiva,  but  at  present  slaves  are  almost 
entirely    obtained     from    Persia,    and    the     sole 


Prevalence  of  Slave^-y  in  Khiva.  487 

occupation  of  the  neighbouring  Turitmen  tribes 
consists  in  kidnapping  Persians  for  sale  at  Khiva. 
The  whole  of  that  portion  of  Persia  laying  to  the 
East  and  South-East  of  the  Caspian,  and  containing 
the  provinces  of  Astrabad  and  Korassan,  both 
abounding  in  natural  productions,  is  most  un- 
fortunately situated,  on  account  of  its  defenceless 
condition,  against  the  inroads  of  the  Turkmen. 

The  tracts  of  land  occupied  by  the  Turkmen  lie 
along  the  rivers  Gurgan  and  Atrek,  localities 
which,  by  the  ruins  of  ancient  monuments  they 
contain,  bear  evidence  of  having  been  once 
inhabited  by  flourishing  communities.  Now  that 
the  Turkmen  are  deprived  of  the  opportunities  for 
selling  their  captives,  there  is  every  probability 
that  they  will  revert  to  peaceful  pursuits,  and  the 
Khivans  being  no  longer  supplied  with  slaves, 
would  exchange  their  freebooting  occupations  for 
the  more  lucrative  industry  of  the  plough,  and 
their  example  would  be  followed  by  the  neighbour- 
ing Turkmen  encampments,  as  well  as  the  Kir- 
ghizes and  Karakalpaks. 

The  slave  traffic  in  Khiva  cannot  be  suppressed 
without  having  recourse  to  compulsory  measures, 
and  these  it  would  be  more  difficult  to  enforce 
here  than  in  the  Khanat  of  Kokan. 


488  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

The  entrance  of  armed  vessels  into  the  Amu- 
Daria  is  extremely  difficult  on  account  of  the 
shallowness  of  its  mouth,  there  being  only  three 
feet  over  the  bar  at  high  vi^ater,  besides  which,  at 
low  water,  the  shoals  in  the  river  above  are  so 
numerous  that  vessels  drawing  more  than  two  feet 
cannot  possibly  ascend  it.  Were  flat-bottomed 
steamers  to  be  despatched  up  the  river  with  troops, 
even  dm-ing  the  season  of  high-water,  their  retreat, 
in  the  event  of  any  miscarriage,  would  be  attended 
with  serious  obstacles.  The  Amu,  furthermore, 
yields  no  other  fuel  along  its  course  than  the 
bushes  of  the  Saxaul,  which  would  prevent  the 
vessels  making  an  extended  cruize.  Notwithstand- 
ing these  difficulties,  it  is  certain  that  the  Russian 
Government,  if  determined  to  abolish  the  slave 
trade  of  Khiva,  might  devise  the  necessary  means 
for  this  purpose,  but  it  must  be  owned  that  any 
military  operations  on  the  part  of  Russian  Central 
Asia  would  be  attended  with  great  outlay. 

If  the  military  picket  line  of  frontier  were  re- 
moved to  the  new  boundary  of  the  empire,  the 
Ural-Orenburg  and  Siberian  lines,  extending  from 
Yurief  on  the  Caspian,  to  Bukhtarminsk,  a  distance 
of  3300  versts,  would  then  become  useless,  and 
the  Cossacks  by  whom  they  are  maintained,  being 


lioiUes  acro&s  Independent  Tartary.       489 

relieved  from  that  duty,  might  be  removed  to  the 
fertile  places  on  the  Upper  Syr,  where  the  cost  of 
their  subsistence  would  be  considerably  less. 

Overcoming  in  this  manner  the  obstacles  which 
the  barbarous  Asiatics  place  in  the  way  of  the 
development  of  Russian  trade,  the  natural  impedi- 
ments by  which  nature  has  cut  Russia  oif  from 
that  rich  oasis  watered  by  the  Syr  and  Amu, 
remain  to  be  considered .  The  chief  obstruction  is 
presented  by  a  \ast  extent  of  ban-en  Steppe, 
traversed    however  by  live  principal  routes,  viz.: 

1,  from  Khiva   to  Mangyshlak    on    the  Caspian; 

2,  from  Khiva  to  the  Western  shore  of  the  Sea  of 
Aral  towards  Orenburg ;  3,  from  Bokhara  North- 
wards to  Orenburg ;  4,  from  Tashkend  along 
the  Eastern  border  of  the  Kirghiz  Steppe  to 
Troitsk ;  5,  to  Petropavlovsk.  Of  these,  the 
first-named  is  the  shortest,  not  exceeding  1000 
versts,  but  it  passes  through  waterless  regions 
infested  by  pillaging  Turkmen,  and  is  for  these 
and  other  reasons  unfrequented.  The  second 
route,  which  is  1300  versts  long,  is  open  to  much 
the  same  objections,  and  is  therefore  equally  neg- 
lected. The  third  road,  that  in  ordinary  use, 
leads  from  Orenburg  to  Orsk  (225  versts),  from 
thence  to  Fort  No.  l,on  the  Syr-Daria  (721  versts), 

K  K 


490  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

offering  a  safe  traversable  road  for  vehicles ; 
farther  on  again  to  the  Yany-Daria  river  (about 
200  versts),  and  lastly  trends  southwards  through 
a  completely  vi^aterless  Steppe  for  300  versts,  from 
whence  to  Bokhara  there  remains  a  distance  of 
about  200  versts,  over  sandy  but  less  arid  localities. 
The  whole  distance  from  Orenburg  to  Bokhara  is 
reckoned  at  1700  versts.  From  the  fortress  of 
Orsk  to  Bokhara  there  are  forty  stages,  and  as 
many  from  Troitsk  to  Tashkend.  Along  this 
last  route,  good  pastm'e  for  cattle  is  found.  StUl 
better,  however,  is  the  road  from  Tashkend  to 
Petropavlovsk,  which  is  throughout  the  whole 
distance  passable  for  wheel  carriages,  and  though 
it  extends  across  a  barren  Steppe,  wells  are  to  be 
found  along  it.  The  length  of  this  road  is  1600 
versts.  It  is  only  lately  that  certam  kinds  of 
goods  are  transported  from  Russia  into  the  Steppe, 
as  far  even  as  the  banks  of  the  Syr,  by  means  of 
oxen  and  carts.  The  ordinary  mode  of  carrying 
goods  is  on  camels,  which  animals  are  alone 
capable  of  supporting  the  want  of  water,  or  of 
drinking  water  of  bad  quality,  while  they  can  also 
subsist  on  the  prickly  shrubs  of  the  Steppe. 
Goods  are  despatched  by  caravans,  and  only  at 
those  seasons  of  the  a  ear  when  snow  hrn'ricanes 


Trade  with  Petropavlovsk.  491 

in  winter  and  the  sultry  heat  and  aridity  of  summer 
do  not  render  the  Steppes  impassable. 

Owing  to  these  circumstances  only  two  caravans 
pass  between  Bokhara  and  Orenburg  during  the 
year,  and  the  number  of  cattle  and  men  forming 
the  caravan  is  in  proportion  to  the  difficulties  to 
be  encountered  on  the  journey.  The  number  of 
beasts  of  burden  in  the  caravan  is  also  governed 
by  the  supply  of  water  and  pasture  along  the 
road.  The  route  from  Khiva  to  the  Caspian  has 
been  abandoned  on  account  of  the  scarcity  of  water 
and  pasture.  Caravans  are  from  two  to  two  and 
a  half  months  performing  the  journey  from 
Orenburg  to  Bokhara  and  vice  versa.  The  cost  of 
transporting  goods  is  from  five  to  fifteen  roubles, 
or  averaging  ten  roubles  (£1  10s.)  per  camel 
carrying  a  load  of  sixteen  puds,  or  5761bs. 
avoirdupois.  From  Orenburg  to  Bokhara  the 
price  paid  is  60  copecks  per  pud  (5s.  8d.  the  cwt.) 

During  the  year  1860,  25,565  beasts  of  burthen 
and  5073  carts  arrived  at  the  Orenburg,  Troitsk 
and  Petropavlovsk  Custom  Houses,  and  8145  and 
4337  respectively  were  despatched  from  those 
places.  Waggons  or  carts  are  principally  used  in 
transporting  government  stores,  or  goods  destined 
for  the  troops  stationed  in  the  Steppe.     The  trade 

K  K  3 


49.2  Trdrflif  hi  Cciifral  ^ii^in. 

with  the  Central  Asiatic  countries  is  mostly 
carried  on  by  means  of  beasts  of  burthen  (pack 
animals) ;  calculating,  therefore,  at  sixteen  puds 
per  camel,  the  (juantity  of  goods  brought  into 
Russia  amounted  to  400,000  puds,  (4160  tons,) 
and  sent  from  that  country  to  upwards  of  130,000 
puds,  (li)7:2  tons).  These  figures  are  \ery  low 
when  it  is  taken  into  consideration  that  a  great 
portion  of  the  lieavy  l)nlk  is  made  up  of  metals. 

Naturally,  large  (piantities  of  goods  cannot  be 
transported  hy  the  present  inadequate  means  of 
conveyance,  and  although  the  cost  of  transporting 
goods  to  Russia  is  now  lower  than  formerly,  since 
the  pacification  of  the  Steppe  to  the  North  of  the 
Sy]--Daria,  and  the  exemption  of  the  caravans  from 
Khi\an  toll-dues,  the  cost  of  transporting  goods 
from  Bokhara  to  Moscow  is  seldom  less  than  two 
roubles  per  pud,  about  tl"^  10s.  per  ton.  In 
(jrdei-  to  lessen  the  expense  of  the  land  carriage, 
a  more  direct  route  than  the  present  one  must 
be  selected,  or  those  in  existence  made  more  con- 
venient for  the  passage  of  caravans. 

The  most  direct  route  for  sending  goods  from 
Khi\a  to  the  Volga  is  undoid)tedly  that  rui 
.Mangyshlak,  where  stands  the  Nov  Alexandrovski 
LA)rt.       Rut     unfortunately    the    whole   extent   of 


Fiihn-c  Ihiilc  for   Traiix/joii  of  floods.      V.):\ 

counti'V  between  the  Amu-Daria  and  the  Cas])iaii 
is  ahnost  totally  devoid  of  watei',  and  infested  b\ 
niaranding  Turkmen.  Hut  when  this  route,  though 
onl\'   travei'salilc    by  camels,  is    cleared    of   these 


Jr 


Caijavax-Hastii   (Ivirt^'A)  anti  Atii\im> 


robbers,  it  will  acquire  gieatcr  importance  and 
will  always  serve  as  an  auxiliaiy  road,  should  the 
means  of  conveyance  on  the  other  lines  of  transit 
be  temporarily  cut  off,  or  be  found  to  fall  short  oi' 
commercial  requirements. 


494  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

The  conjectures  so  often  hazarded  in  different 
works  respecting  the  diversion  of  the  course  of  the 
Amu  into  its  ancient  bed  to  the  Caspian,  are  alto- 
gether undeserving  of  serious  attention,  as  the 
great  evaporation  in  the  Steppe  would  preclude 
the  possibility  of  the  waters  of  this  river  reaching 
the  sea,  even  were  the  whole  stream  directed  to  it 
by  shutting  up  the  irrigating  canals  which 
absorb  so  large  a  quantity  of  its  volume.  This  last 
measure  would  have  the  effect  of  impoverishing 
the  whole  population  of  the  Khanat  of  Khiva, 
whose  very  existence  depends  on  a  supply  of 
water  for  their  fields  and  pastures. 

The  waterless  and  dangerous  character  of  the 
route  leading  from  the  Amu  to  the  Caspian 
cannot  but  be  regretted,  more  particularly  as 
Bokharian  goods  might  easily  be  conveyed  to 
Khiva  along  this  river,  which  is  only  fifty  versts 
from  the  towTi  of  Bokhai-a.  At  this  part  it  is 
navigated  by  native  boats.  The  river  is  con- 
sidered navigable  for  a  distance  of  1100  versts, 
800  of  which  are  through  a  populated  country. 
Along  this  waterway,  Russian  goods  might  penetrate 
to  the  very  base  of  the  Celestial  mountains. 

At  first  sight  it  may  appear  easy  to  transport  the 
goods  brought  down  the  Amu  to  the  Sea  of  Aral, 


Various  Commercial  Routes  ProjKsed.     495 

and,  carrying  them  up  the  Syr,  the  mouth  of  which 
is  a  little  deeper  than  that  of  the  former  river  and  is 
never  shallower  than  three  feet,  and  so  bring  them 
to  Port  No.  1,  from  whence  they  can  be  despatched 
overland  to  Russia.  But  considering  the  small 
depth  of  water  at  the  embouchure  of  the  Amu,  and 
that  the  flat-bottomed  boats  which  may  be  used  in 
navigating  this  river  cannot  be  safely  used  on  the 
stormy  and  turbulent  Sea  of  Aral,  for  which  reason 
the  goods  would  have  to  be  transhipped,  the 
difficulties  in  the  way  of  surmounting  this  scheme 
win  be  found  very  great. 

Acknowledging  therefore  the  unavoidable  neces- 
sity for  the  time  being  of  transporting  goods  between 
Russia  and  Bokhara  overland,  it  only  remains  to 
render  it  less  perilous  and  costly. 

The  extent  of  500  versts  between  the  Kuvan-Daria 
and  Bokhara,  now  traversed  by  caravans,  is  scanty  in 
water  and  forage,  and  is  imperfectly  guarded  against 
the  marauding  Kirghizes  owing  to  the  impossibility 
of  maintaining  stationary  military  pickets  in  these 
parts.  The  road  can  therefore  be  traversed  only  by 
camels  and  strong  caravans,  and  at  the  most 
favourable  season  of  the  year. 

The  road  from  the  Syr-Daria  to  the  Russian 
frontier  can  be  used  by  carts  drawn  by  a  single 


496  Travels  i)i-  Ce/ifraf  Asia. 

animal  &t  all  seasons  of  tlie  year.  The  communi- 
cation with  Russia  would  of  course  be  greatly 
facilitated,  were  the  transport  of  goods  between 
Bokhara  and  the  Syr  capable  of  being  carried  on 
in  the  same  manner ;  this,  however,  can  only  be 
effected  by  skirting  the  wilderness  stretching  from 
the  left  bank  of  the  Amu  and  the  Sea  of  Aral  to 
the  Western  slope  of  the  Kara-tau  and  Ala-tau 
mountains.  The  most  convenient  route,  therefore, 
from  Bokhara  to  Russia  should  lead  to  the  Syr- 
Daria  through  Tashkend  or  Kokan.  Goods  des- 
patched from  Bokhara  to  Russia  cannot  safely 
pass  through  the  Kokanian  territory,  until  the  in- 
cessant warfare  carried  on  between  Bokhara  and 
Kokan  has  subsided,  and  this  can  only  be  effected 
by  Russian  influence. 

The  duty  collected  during  1860  on  the  goods 
passed  through  the  Orenburg  and  Siberian  frontier 
custom-houses  yielded  315,000  roubles,  of  which 
97,000  were  collected  on  salt  from  the  Kirghiz 
Steppes,  90,000  on  cotton  manufactures,  and  23,000 
on  silk  and  woollen  fabrics. 

It  appears  advisable,  therefore,  in  order  that 
Russia  should  effectually  protect  the  Kirghizes  who 
have  placed  themselves  under  her  rule,  and  to  extend 


Requisites  for  Protecti/ny  Trade.  497 

the  commercial  intercourse  between  Russia  and 
Central  Asia,  to  adopt  the  following  measures  : — 

1 .- — To  occupy  the  upper  course  of  the  Syr-Daria 
by  a  military  force,  so  as  to  ensure  the  free  navi- 
gation of  the  whole  river,  by  which  means  the 
struggle  carried  on  between  Kokan  and  Bokhara 
would  be  stopped. 

2. — To  secure  a  firm  footing  on  the  Amu-Daria, 
in  order  to  put  a  stop  to  the  traffic  in  slaves,  and 
subdue  the  Turkmen  tribes  camping  on  the  Eastern 
shores  of  the  Caspian. 

3. — To  connect  the  Syr-Daria  and  Kirghiz 
Siberian  lines  by  a  series  of  forts. 

4. — To  transfer  the  Orenburg  and  Siberian 
frontier  lines  to  the  above  new  military  boundaries. 

5. — To  establish  regular  steam  communication 
on  the  Syr-Daria. 

6. — To  despatch  consuls  to  those  Central  Asiatic 
countries  with  which  Russia  maintains  commercial 
relations,  and  to  endeavour  to  establish  Russian 
factories  in  those  places. 

7. — To  encourage  agriculture  among  the  Kir- 
ghizes. 


APPENDICES. 


APPENDIX    I. 

Itinerary  op  Routks  in  thk  Trans-Ili 
AND  Chu  Regions. 

(A)  Fi'om  Port  Venioc  to  Phlipck. 

(1)  Keskelen  river,  28^  versts. 

The  road  trends  along  level  ground,  crossing  the 
Great  Almatinka,  Boraldai,  and  Aksu  rivulets, 
which  issue  from  the  mountains.  All  these 
rivulets  are  diverted  into  innumerable  arvks  or 
canals.  The  road  extends  at  a  distance  of  five 
versts  and  more  from  the  base  of  the  Ala-tau. 

(2)  Kargaly  river,  21  versts. 

Numerous  guUies  formed  by  the  defiux  of  the 
viraters  in   spring  from  the  Ala-taii  are  crossed. 


502  Travels  in   Central  Asia. 

and  the  Chemolgan  rivulet,   an  affluent  of  the 
Keskelen,  traversed. 

(3)  Fort  Kastek,  31  versts. 

The  ground  is  more  level  here  than  on  the  pre- 
ceding stages.  Good  pasturage  is  found  along 
the  Uzun-Agatch  and  Kara-Kastek  rivulets. 

(4)  Bugu-Muyus  river,  23  versts. 

Here  the  road  traverses  small  ravines  similar  to 
those  occurring  on  the  second  stage  of  the  route, 
and  gradually  approaches  the  mountains.  The 
halting-place  for  the  night  on  the  Bugu-Muyus 
is  at  the  very  head  of  the  defile.  This  portion 
of  the  road  is  intersected  by  the  Djiren-Aigyr 
and  Kara-Archa  rivulets. 

(5)  Salt  Marsh  at  head  of  Djamanty  river,  16  versts. 

Running  through  the  defile  in  which  rushes  the 
Bish-Mainak  torrent,  the  road  continuously 
ascends  the  chain,  and  in  some  parts  crosses 
spurs  of  the  main  range.  Occasionally  it  leads 
over  tedious  and  dangerous  slopes. 

(6)  Kara-Kunus  river,  284  versts. 
After    attaining   the    sununit   of  the   range,  at  a 


Itinerary  for   Trans-Ili  and  Chu.  503 

short  distance  from  the  head  of  the  Djamanty, 
and  from  the  Boladjan  mountain,  the  road 
gradually  descends  to  the  valley  of  the  Chu, 
over  nunierous  spurs  which  impede  the  progress. 
The  Kara-Kunus  rivulet,  where  it  issues  from 
the  mountains,  is  well  supplied  with  water. 

(7)  Pormer  Tokmak  Fort,  15  versta. 

On  gaining  the  Valley  of  the  Chu,  this  river  must 
be  crossed ;  the  passage  is  more  easily  accom- 
plished above  Kekmek-Sengir  than  iumaediately 
opposite  Tokmak.  In  hot  weather  the  fords 
over  the  Chu  are  not  deeper  than  three  feet. 

(8)  Kagety  river,  21  versts. 

Prom  Kara-Kunus,  the  Northern  side  of  the  Chu 
Valley  may  be  followed.  The  night-halts  will 
be  at  the  Kara-Su  spring,  twenty-five  versts  from 
Kara-Kunus,  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Chu, 
close  to  the  Chumttch  ford,  a  distance  of  twenty- 
three  versts.  The  distance  from  Chumitch  to 
Pishpek  is  nine  and  a  half  versts. 

(9)  Fort  Pishpek,  25i  versts. 
The  road  extends  through  the  Chu  Valley,  parallel 


5(14  Travels  in   ('ctitral  Asia. 

witli  the  base  of  the  Kirghiz-Alatau,  traversing 
the  Shamsi  and  Naurus  rivulets. 

On  the  whole  of  this  extent  there  are  convenient 
places  for  night-halts,  and  sufficient  grass  and 
water  at  all  the  localities  indicated ;  the  water 
of  the  Chu  is  very  muddy,  and  it  is  therefore 
preferable  to  avoid  this  river. 

Total,  209i  versts,  or  139|-  miles. 

B.   Another  Route  from  Pishpek  to  Kastek. 

(1)  Argaity  river,  2.3  versts. 

The  Chu  mast  be  crossed  at  the  Chumitch  ford, 
and  a  northerly  direction  pursued  over  even 
ground.  The  reeds  along  the  Chu  spread  to  a 
width  of  three  versts. 

(2)  Argaity  river,  14  versts. 

The  road  leads  through  the  narrow  valley  of  this 
river,  which  is  also  partially  overgrown  with 
reeds,  and  has  a  slight  inclination. 

(3)   Kurdai  river,  30  versts. 

A  journey  across  inconsiderable  mountains  to  the 
northern  side  of  the  Alatau,  emerging  midway  on 


Itinerary  for  Trans-Ili  and  Chu.         505 

the  source  of  the  Kurdai,  which,  in  hot  weather, 
dries  up  where  it  leaves  the  mountains. 

(4)  Taldy-Bulak  rivulet,  20  versts. 

The  road  trends  close  along  the  base  of  the 
Ala-tau,  through  the  perfectly  flat  Kopa  Valley. 
The  Taldy-Bulak  is  a  small  stream  disappearing 
altogether  in  a  few  aryks  that  serve  to  irrigate 
the  Kirghiz  pastures. 

(5)  Sarymsak  spring,  36  versts. 

Jounieying  still  through  the  Kopa  Valley,  leaving 
on  one  side  the  Djamanty,  Bish-Mainak,  and 
Kara-Archu  rivulets,  which  become  completely 
dry  in  summer,  the  ground  along  this  extent  is 
level. 

(6)  Fort  Kastek,  25  versts. 

The  road  traverses  several  hollows  and  ravines, 
and  crosses  the  Utch-Bulak  stream  to  Djiren- 
Aigyr,  at  which  point  it  emerges  on  the  first 
route. 

The  Chumitch  ford  is  worse  than  the  fords  above 
Tokmak ;  but  the  Kurdai  pass  is,  on  the  other 
hand,  more  accessible  than  that  of  Bishmainak. 

Total  151  versts,  or  1001  miles. 

L  L 


506  Travels  in  Cenlral  Asia. 

(C)  FroHi  iii(/M-halt  on  the  Kurdai  to  It-KicJm. 

(1)  Uzun-Su  rivulet,  l7i  versts. 

The  road  stretches  along  the  base  of  the  Ala-tau 
range,  which  at  this  part  is  of  inconsiderable 
height,  and  past  the  Iri-Su  and  Kizyl-Su 
springs. 

(2)  Kendyk-Tash  rivulet,  15  versts. 

The  character  of  the  country  remains  the  same. 
The  Kopa  valley  becomes  somewhat  narrower, 
and  is  bordered  by  low  and  rocky  mountains  on 
the  North  and  South. 

(3)  Cliokmar-Su  rivulet,  24  versts. 

The  same  description  of  ground.  The  Kopa  valley 
widens  by  degrees ;  at  the  Chokmar-Su  it  de- 
scends Westward  to  the  Dala-kainar  valley. 

(±)  Dala-kainar  river,  20  versts. 

The  road  runs  along  the  rivulet  and  occasionally 
over  small  elevations. 

(5)  Mai-Bulak  livuleb,  24  versts. 

As  the  Dala-kainar  becomes  exhausted  before 
reaching  the  Chu,  the  journey  must  be  continued 


Itinerari/  for  Tirnn^-Ifi  and  Cliii.         507 

to  the  S.W.,  over  undulating  ground,  to  Mai- 
Bulak  spring  ;  this  latter,  however,  contains  but 
little  water. 

(6)  Fort  It-Kichu,  25  versts. 

The   ford   here   over   the   Chu    is    very  shallow ; 

the  shores  are  overgrown  with  reeds. 
The  grass  on  this  route  is  poorer  in  quality  than 

along  the  other  described  roads. 
Total  122-^  English  versts,  804  English  miles. 

(D)  From  Pishpek  to  Adie-Ata,  on  the  Talai^. 

(1)  Sokuluk  river,  27  versts. 
The  road  runs  through  the  valley  of  the  Chu,  and 
is   intersected   by  the  rivers    Shiraly,    Kiunuk, 
and  Djilamys. 

(2)  Fort  Aksu,  24  versts. 
Same  ground.     The  Chu  valley  becomes  wider  as 
the    bed    of   the    river    turns    to    the   North- 
west. 

(3)  Upper  Kaindy  river,  22  versts.    Fort  Merke,  25  versts. 
The    road    presents    similar   features.     Still   the 
same   ground;    on    nearing  Merke   ravines  are 
crossed. 

L  L  2 


508  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

(4)  Tarty  river,  20  versts  ;  Toichi-aryk,  20'  versts ;  Mak- 
mal  river,  30  versts ;  Kara-Archa,  25  versts ;  Aulie-Ata 
tovm,  30  versts. 

The  ground  at  first  is  pretty  even,  and  only  in- 
tersected by  small  ravines  with  rivulets ;  but 
approaching  Aulie-Ata,  it  is  more  undulating. 
Nearer  to  the  Talas  it  again  becomes  flat. 

Total,  223  versts,  or  148|  miles. 

(E)  From  Aulie-Ata  to  Namangan. 

(1)  TJtch-Kurgan,  25  versts. 

The  road  extends  along  the  valley  of  the  Talas, 
along  the  left  bank  of  this  river. 

(2)  Kara-Bura  Pass,  40  versts. 
At  five  versts  from  Utch-Kurgan  along  the  Talas 
valley,  the  road  strikes  off'  Southwards  into  the 
mountains,  and  follows  the  Kara-Bura  spring, 
as  far  as  the  culminating  point  of  the  pass. 
The  steep  descents  and  rocky  ground  make  this 
journey  very  difficult.  Caravans  traverse  it  in 
two  days,  halting  midway  for  the  night. 

(3)  Chirchik  river,  35  versts. 
The    descent    from    the    mountains    follows    the 
Marzashnyn-Choty  rivulet,  the  road  presenting 
the  same  character  as  above. 


Itinerary  for  Trans-Ili  and  Cku.         509 

(4)  Kurgan-Chanysh,  30  versts. 

After  fording  the  Chirchik,  the  journey  is  con- 
tinued along  the  left  bank  of  this  stream,  over 
ground  traversable  by  vehicles. 

(5)  Chanysh  Pass,  25  versts. 

The  road  again  runs  Southwards,  entering  the 
mountains,  along  the  Chanysh  rivulet  to  the 
summit  of  the  pass. 

(6)  Ai-Tash  locality,  25  versts. 
Descent. 

(7)  Iski  Abat  settlement,  13  versts. 

The  small  settlement  of  Safet-Bulak  occurs  at  five 
versts  from  the  night  halting-place,  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountams ;  beyond,  the  ground  is  even. 

(8)  Namangan  town,  20  versts. 

The  road  here  stretches  over  a  plain,  and  the 
village  of  Goleshan  is  passed  on  the  sixteenth 
verst.  Namangan  is  on  a  river  of  the  same 
name  virhich  issues  out  of  a  snow-capped  range. 
Several  canals  exist  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 


510  Travel)^  in  Central  Asia. 

town,  and  irrigate  the  fields  of  the  many  settle- 
ments that  spread  here. 
Total,  213  versts,  or  142  miles. 

(F)  From  Adie-Ata  to  Siizak. 

(1)  Asa  river,  20  versts ;  Bel-kul  lake,  25  versts. 
A  level  road  through  the  Kara  valley. 

(2)  Djangys-Agatch  spring,  16  versts. 
A  level  road  down  the  course  of  the  Asa. 

(3)  Arba-tasb  spring,  20  versts. 
The  road  crosses  low  hiUs. 

(4)  Cherbakty  river,  15'  versts ;  Chernakty  river,  25 
versts  ;  Babaty  river,  25  versts  ;  Sunduk  river,  30  versts  ; 
Uzun-Bulak  river,  30  versts ;  Cholak-Kiirgan  fort,  15 
versts  ;  Suzak  fort,  55  versts. 

Along  the  whole  of  this  extent  of  the  road,  water 
and  grass  are  procurable  at  the  night  halts. 
The  road  skirts  the  Northern  foreland  of  the 
Boraldai  range,  at  a  distance  of  live  versts.  The 
ground  is  level. 

Total,  27G  versts,  or  ls4  miles. 

(G)  From  Ai/Jie-Ata  to  Tavklcend. 

(1)  Asa  river,  30  versts. 
Along  the  Kara  \' alley. 


Itinerary  for  Tram-Ill  and  Chu.         511 

(2)  Kuyuk  hills,  20  versts. 

Passing  first  through  a  valley,  the  road  then  runs 
over  gentle  heights,  which  may  be  traversed  in 
carts. 

(3)  Ters  settlemeat,  liO  versts. 

The  road  descends  from  the  Kuyuk  hills,  and 
extends  along  the  Ters  valley — abounding  in 
water  and  grass. 

(Ji)  Arysh  river  25  versts. 

The  road  crosses  mountains,  and  then  separates 
into  three  branches  :  one  leading  over  the  Chom- 
kan  elevation,  passable  by  carts,  another  through 
the  Kulan  pass — ^not  a  very  good  one — while  the 
third  is  merely  a  pathway  used  by  single  horse- 
men. 

(5)  Karakchi-Bulak  settlement,  1-t  versts. 

The  road  descends  the  valley  of  the  Arysh,  the 
river  remaining  on  the  right. 

(6)  Mashat  town,  20  versts. 

Continuing  in  the  same  direction.  Westward,  the 
road  deflects  from  the  Arysli,  leaving  on  the  left 


512  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

the  mountains,  from  whence  all  the  rivulets  that 
occur  on  this  joiirney  take  their  rise. 
The  Arysh  flows  at  a  distance  of  five  versts  to 
the  North  of  the  road. 

(7)  Mankent  settlement,  13  versts. 

The  settlement  of  Mankent  contains  about  1600 
inhabitants,  consisting  of  husbandmen  and  petty 
traffickers. 

(8)  Kizyl-Su  river,  16  versts. 
The  road  intersects  the  Aksu  rivulet. 

(9)  Saraim  town,  20  versts. 

This  small  town  stands  on  the  banks  of  the 
Saraim  which  flows  into  the  Arysh  and  takes  its 
rise  in  the  Kara-tinbe  moimtains. 

(10)  Badam  river,  18  versts.   Duvan-Kurgan,  20  versts. 

The  road  passes  over  low  spurs  of  the  Kyzyr- 
kurt. 

(11)  Ak-Djar  settlement,  26  versts. 
Through  Sharib-Khan  Settlement. 


Itinerary  for  Trans-Ili  and  Chu.         513 

(12)  Djas-Kichu  ford,  20  versts. 
This  ford  is  over  tlie  Keles  river,  with  which  the 
road  runs  parallel. 

(13)  Kara-Kamysh  locality,  25  versts. 

Midway,  the  road  crosses  the  Uzun-Aryk  canal, 
conducted  from  the  Chtrchika  rivulet. 

(14)  Tashkend  8-10  versts. 

The  latter  part  of  this  marche-route,  from  the 
settlement  of  Ak-Djar,  does  not  quite  agree 
with  that  contained  in  Humboldt's  "  Asie  Cen- 
trale,"  Vol.  Ill,  p.  338. 

Total,  285  versts,  or  190  miles. 

(H.)  IVom  Tashkend,  to  the  River  Chu. 

(1)  Ak-Djar  settlement,  55  versts. 
Back  by  the  same  road. 

(2)  At-Bulak,  20  versts. 
Turning  off  from  the  Keles,  the  road  runs  over 
low  hUls. 

(3)  Chemkend  town,  20  versts. 

After  descending  from  the  hills,  the  road  emerges 
into  the  Badam  valley.  The  wooded  summits 
of  the  Kyzyrkurt  are  left  on  the  right. 


514  Travels  in  Centred  Asia. 

(4)  Arysh  river,  2-j  verats. 

The  journey  is  continued  over  gently  undulating 
ground,  to  the  Arysh  river,  below  the  mouth  of 
the  Chubar-Su,  its  affluent.  The  river  here  is 
deep  and  broad,  and  a  ferry  exists,  at  times, 
over  it. 

(5)  Bogon  river,  20  versts. 
Undulating  ground. 

(6)  Arslandy  river,  30  versts. 

Same  ground.  The  Chayan  rivulet  occurs  half- 
way. 

(7)  Kara-Basil  river,  20  versts. 

The  base  of  the  Kara-taii  mountains  is  approached 
at  Min-Bulalak  settlement. 

(8)  Cholak-Kurgan  Fort,  3G  versts. 

A  pass  oxer  the  Kara-taii  movmtains.  It  is  gene- 
rally cleared  in  two  days.  The  road  lies  for 
some  distance  through  a  valley  after  descending 
from  the  mountains,  and  before  reaching  a 
settlement. 


Itinerary  for  Trans-Ili  and  Chu.         515 

(9)  Kli  spring,  20  versts. 
Across  a  level  Steppe. 

(10)  Kara-Kul  lake,  15  versts. 

Level   and   partly  sandy   ground.     Reeds   in  the 
direction  of  the  lake. 

(11)  Turn  settlement,  30  versts. 

A  tedious  journey  across   sands ;    sahnes    and   a 
marsh  occur  at  the  night  halt. 

(12)  Chu  river,  at  the  Kazangan-Utkul  ford,  25  versts. 

Similar    country.     Reeds    extend    for    six   versts 

towards  the  river. 
Beyond   this,  the  road  runs   past  the  Tes-Bulak 

settlement,  through  a  barren  Steppe  to  Semipala- 

tinsk. 
Total,  316  versts,  or  2101  miles. 

(I)    From  Azret  {Turkestmi)  to   the  Chu. 

(1)  Karsatty,  15  versts. 
Over  even  ground  covered  with  rich  grasses. 

(2)  Babai,  15  versts. 

The  road  reaches  the  foot  of  the  Kara-tau,  clothed 
with  birch  woods. 


516  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

(3)  Suzak  Fort,  45  versts. 
Crosses  the  mountains  through  a  rocky  and  well 
watered  defile.  This  stage  is  generally  passed 
in  two  days,  halting  for  the  night  in  the  defile. 
Beyond  the  descent  the  road  extends  for  some 
distance  through  the  valley.  The  name  of  the 
defile  is  Suundyk. 

(4)  Chu  river,  at  tbe  Toitube  ford,  80  versts. 

The  road  on  this  journey  stretches  over  a  sandy 
Steppe,  in  which,  however,  there  are  many  weHs 
(at  Ak-urpek,  Burumbai,  &c.)  Copses  of  the 
Saxaid  are  met  with.  Nearer  the  Chu,  there  are 
salines  and  reeds. 

Total,  155  versts,  or  1034  miles. 

(K)  From  Aulie-Ata  to  Lake  Balkhash. 

(1)  Kara-Archa  river,  32  versts  ;  Makmal,  27  versts  ;  Djar- 
Su,  20  versts  ;  Tarty,  15  versts  ;  Kuragaty,  20  versts  ;  It- 
Kichu  fort,  35  versts ;  Djidel  rivulet,  30  versts.  Bata- 
Burn  river,  30  versts  ;  Well  in  the  Steppe,  23  versts ;  Djir- 
tashmir  river,  22  versts  ;  Lake  Alakul,  22  versts  ;  (part 
of  Lake  Balkhash) . 

The  ground  is  mostly  even,  except  during  the 
first  stage;  the  grass  is  good  but  becomes 
scorched  in  hot  weather. 

The  passage  over  the  Chu  is  convenient,  and  the 


Itinerary  for  Trans-IU  and  Chu.         517 

valley  of  the  river  is  overgrown  with  reeds.  The 
greater  part  of  the  road  runs  across  an  even 
Steppe. 

Pass  over  the  Khan-taii  mountains. 

Undulating  ground  badly  watered,  grass  toler- 
able. 

Gently  undulating  ground.    Salines  occur. 

Total,  276  versts,  or  148  miles. 

Note.  This  information  was  collected  in  1859,  in  the 
Trans-Ili  region,  from  many  persons  acquainted  with  the 
country,  and  the  first  three  routes  are  founded  on  personal 
knowledge  of  the  region. 


APPENDIX    II. 


Astronomical  determinations  of  points  in  Eastern 
Turkestan  and  Dzungaria  were  made  by  European 
missionaries,  members  of  a  learned  commission, 
formed  in  the  reign  of  the  Emperor  Tsian-lun,  for 
describing  the  country,  then  newly  annexed  to 
China  on  the  AA\^st.  The  first  commission,  which 
was  organized  in  1755  for  exploring  Dzungaria, 
■was  under  the  direction  of  He-ho-tszun  ;  and  the 
second,  which  explored  Turkestan,  was  headed  by 
Min-hotu.  The  following  figures  have  heen 
extracted  by  M.  Zakharof  from  the  book  of  Si- 
yui-tu-chji,  and  other  sources,  and  differ  in  some 


Appendix  II. 


519 


portions  from  Klaproth's  "  Carte  de  I'Asie  Cen- 
trale"  of  1836:— 

Peom  the  Book  of  Si-Tiri-Tr-CHJi. 


On  Southern  An-Si  line  : — 
Tszia-yu-huan  barrier  . 
Yui-min  town 
Tszin-ni  town 
Lu-hou-pu  station 
Chan-ma,  river  source  . 
Dan-chen  town    . 
An-si-chjeu . 
Hua-clijeu,  new  station 
Ma-len-tszin  station 
Dun-huan  town 
Has  lake 

On  An-Si  Northern  line  :-  - 
Ban-chi-tsuan  station  . 
Sin-Sin  defile 
Talnatszin  station 
Tugurik  village    . 
Hara-hot 
Sun-shu  station    . 
Nan-shan-keu  pass 
Hami  (Komul)  town    . 
Mu-cheu  town     . 
Kara-tinbe  station 
Ha-shua  station  . 
Barkul  town 

Habtak,  station  at  mountain  of 
Baitak  mountain 
TJlau-usu  station 
Murui  station 

Kitai  town  .... 
Hu-clieu  town 


North 

Latitude. 

39° 

45' 

40° 

5' 

40° 

10' 

40° 

25' 

39° 

0' 

39° 

35' 

40° 

34' 

40° 

32' 

41° 

50' 

40° 

12' 

40° 

4' 

42= 

37' 

42° 

5' 

43° 

31' 

43° 

42' 

43° 

50' 

43° 

32' 

43° 

15' 

42° 

53' 

43° 

53' 

42° 

52' 

44° 

0' 

43° 

39' 

45° 

0' 

44° 

43' 

43° 

44' 

43° 

45' 

43° 

45' 

44° 

4' 

Longitude 

£a6t  of 
Greenwich. 


98°  41' 
97°  52' 
97°  16' 
9G°  39' 
96°  33' 
95°  49' 
95°  45' 
95°  44' 
95°  37' 
94°  36' 
89°  53' 


95°  34' 
95°  31' 
95°  23' 
94°  30' 
94°  25' 
93°  48' 
93°  44' 
93°  40' 
93°  34' 
92°  58' 
92°  21' 
92°  12' 
91"  48' 
91°  14' 
91°  11' 
90°  38' 
90°  23' 
90°  21' 


520 


Travels  in  Central  Asia. 


In  TJrvmtsi  district 
Tazimsa  station    . 
Urumtsi  town 
Foo-kian  town     . 
Chau-ki  town 
Loklon  station     . 
Tan-balgasun  station 
Manas  (Sui-lai)   . 
An-tszi-hai  station 


Northern  Thian-shan  line 
Kur-kara-usu  town 
Tszin-ho  station  . 
Chaban-baisin  village  . 

In  the  Tarlagatai  district : — 
At  confluence  of  the  two  Irtysh  7 

sources    ....        J 
Ulan-huehjir  village 
Ket-hobok  village 
Narin-hobok  village 
Nam  village 
Chuguchak  town 
Emil  village 
Chor  village 

In  the  Hi  region : — 
Kunges,  source  of  river 
Kash,  „ 

Yuldus,  „ 

Euldja  (Hi,  Hoi-yuan)  town 
Karatal,  point  on  river 
Hongor-olon  (Kunur-ulen)  point  7 

on  river   .         .         .         .         i 
Edemok  settlement 
Chu  river,  point  on      .         .         . 
Talas  river,  point  on     . 


North 
Latitude. 


Longitude 

East  of 

Greenwich. 


44°  9' 
43°  27' 

44°  a 

43°  45' 
44°  3' 
44°  17' 
44°  20' 
44°  18' 


44°  24' 
44°  33' 
44°  32' 


47°  10' 


89°  22' 
88°  18' 
88°  24' 
87°  47' 
87°  45' 
86°  39' 
86°  25' 
85°  49' 


85°  19' 
83°  43' 
83°  16' 


87°  48' 


46°  15' 

86°  58' 

46°  25' 

86°  19' 

46°  25' 

86°  19' 

45°  10' 

86°  19' 

46°  48' 

82°  51' 

46°    8' 

85°  14' 

45°    4' 

84°  32' 

43°  33' 

83°    9' 

44°     8' 

83°  13' 

43°  17' 

85°  23' 

43°  56' 

80°  53' 

45°  40' 

79°    3' 

42°  17' 

78°  28' 

42°  10' 

76°  13' 

43°    3' 

74°  54' 

42°  30' 

73°  44' 

Apjpendi.r  II. 


521 


On  Southern    Thian-Shan 
In  Pichiisan  district : — 
Hun  village 
Toho  or  Taku  station  . 
Pichjan  town 
Lukchak  village  . 
Ilalik  village 
Turfan  town 
Chjoha-hoto  settlement 

In  Kharashar  district : — 
Chuhoi  village 
Karashahr  town  . 
Knrunle  station 
Tugur  village 

In  KucJii  district : — 
Tohanai  station    . 
Mouth  of  the  Kizyl,  at  the  Ukend 
Toibolady  village 
Shah-yar  town 
Kuche  town 
Kuke  -puyun 
Eshik-bashi  station  (lehke-bashi) 


In  the  Sairam  district : — 
Kizyl  station 
Sairam  town 
Hara-IIsu  station 
Bai  town      .         .         .         . 
Tailgan  village    . 

In  the  Aksii  district : — 
Ilgatsi  .         .         .         . 

Uchj  ama  village  . 
Aksu  town  .         .         .         . 
Chjaerge  (Cbjaekde)  village 


North 
Latitude. 

Longitude 

East  of 

Greenwich. 

line. 

42° 

50' 

91°  12' 

43° 

19' 

91°  50' 

42° 

62' 

90°  28' 

42° 

40' 

90°     3' 

42° 

46' 

89°  48' 

43° 

4' 

89°  18' 

43° 

6' 

89°  21' 

42° 

17' 

87°  36' 

42° 

7' 

86°  54' 

41° 

46' 

86°  15' 

41° 

44' 

84°    5' 

41° 

20' 

83°  26' 

kend 

41° 

35' 

82°     5' 

41° 

10' 

83°  20' 

41° 

5' 

83°  50 

41° 

37' 

83°  39' 

41° 

20' 

83°  30' 

)ashi) 

42° 

9' 

83°  12' 

41° 

45' 

81°  48' 

41° 

41' 

81°  33' 

41° 

45' 

81°     1' 

41° 

41' 

81°    i' 

40° 

45' 

80°  42' 

41° 

44' 

80°  41' 

40° 

0' 

79°  28' 

41° 

9' 

78°  58' 

40° 

52' 

78°  35' 

M   M 


522 


Travels  hi  Central  Asia. 


In  the  TJsh  district : — 
UBh-Turfan  town 
Seferbai  village 
Sogon  village 

In  the  Kashgar  district ; — 
Kizyl-bni  station 
Toprak  (Topuluk)  station    . 
Tanyishalir  (Ingashar)  town 
Kashgar  town 
Aragu  station 
Osli  (Haoche) 

In  the  Yarkend  district : — 
Duva  village 
8an-chju  town 
Kuh^-yar  (Kok-yar)  village 
Barchuk  town 
Ak-Alyk  village  . 
Yarkend  town 
Saralyk  (Serlek)  village 
Karciiu  town 
Serikul  (S.  extremity) 

In  the  Khotan  district : — 
In  the  Kerya,  or  Keldya,  town 
Tak  town    . 
Chare  or  Tsirle  village 
Yurun-kash  village 
Khotan  town 
Kara-kash  vOlage 


North 
Latitude. 


Longitude 

East  of 
Greenwich. 


41°  6'  I  77°  46' 
41°  1'  '  77°  21' 
39°  50'         75°     4' 


38°  30' 
38°  29' 
38°  47' 
39°  25' 
89°  52' 
40°  17' 


36°  52' 
36°  58' 
37°  7' 
39°  15' 
37°  41' 
38°  19' 
37°  48' 
37°  11' 
37°  48' 


36°  58' 
36°  13' 
36°  47' 
36°  52' 
37°  0' 
37°  10' 


75°  19' 
75°  .1' 
74°  23' 
73°  48' 
73°  32' 
73°  22' 


79° 

78° 
77° 
76° 
76° 
76° 


6' 
26' 
11' 

38' 

25' 

3' 


73°  49' 
73°  41' 
73°  49' 


82°  48' 
82°  28' 
81°  31' 
80°  36' 
80°  21' 
80°     2' 


Feom  the  Book  of  Si-tui-shtji-das-tszl. 


Chan-ma  river,  source  of 

Dan  river,  source  of     . 

Sarten  lake,    from  38°  50'  lat., ) 

110°  47'  long.,  to       .         .        i 
Lob-nor  lake,  from  40°  30'  lat.,"? 

105°  57'  long.,  to  „        ) 


38° 

50'? 

36° 

58' 

39° 

5' 

40° 

45' 

96°  39' 
95°  33' 

93°  10' 

89°    4' 


Appendix  II. 


523 


North 
Latitude. 


Longitude 

East  of 
Greenwich. 


Bosten-nor  lake 

Karatala-isliek  lake,  or  Bulhatzi- 
nor,  from  44°  35'  lat.,  100°  42' 
Ipng.  (?)  .         .         . 

Confluence  of  Kunges  and  Tene.s 

Month  of  Kash  or  Hi  . 

Source  of  Great  Tuldus 

Source  of  Kizyl-su 

Confluence  of  Kizyl-su  and  Mu-  X 
zart  into  the  Yarkend-Dariai 

Sburce  of  S.  Muzart  river 

Mouth  of  E.  Aksu 

Source  of  Turun-kash 

Source  of  Kara-kast    . 

Kara-kul  lake,  from  88°21'  long,  to 

Source  of  Derbichuk  river 

FiiOM  THE  Book  of  Hk- 

At  bend   of   Yellow   Eiver   to  7 

the  "W.est  .        i 

At   entrance   of  Yellow   Eiver) 

into  China  .  > 

Huhunor  lake,  from  36°  6'  lat.] 

100°  13'  long.   .  i 

Bulungir  river,  source  of 
At    confluence    of    Haidii-golo') 

with  the  Tarim         .  .        J 

Little  Serten  lake 


42°    8' 

44°  46'  ? 

43°  45' 
43°  41' 
42°  45' 
42°  20' 

41°  25' 

42°  20' 

40°  4' 

36°  0' 

30°  0' 

44°  10' 

43°  45' 


87°  44' 

83°  33'  ? 

81°  53' 

81°  43' 
81°    3' 

82°    3' 

79°  53' 

81"  8' 

81°  13' 

80°  5' 

72°  23' 

71°  53' 


YUAJT- 

TSZI-LTS. 

34° 

6' 

101°  14' 

36° 

0' 

101°    9' 

37= 

4' 

101°     8' 

37° 

5' 

97°  14/ 

40° 

2' 

87°    4' 

39° 

4' 

— 

M  M  2 


APPENDIX    III. 


Mar che- route  from  Turfan  to  Kmhgar  in  Little 
Bokhara,  from  a  verbal  statement  made  in 
1831  hy  a  Chinese  inhabitant  {Ma-tiang-shi) 
of  the  first-named  town.     By  Goliibef* 

First  night-halt :  Turfan. 

Seventy  lis  from  Tnrfan,  a  Chinese  picket;  the 
military  force  here  consists  of  forty  Chinamen 

*  During  the  wars  of  Madali-Khan  of  Kokan,  with  the 
Chinese  in  1830,  conducted  in  Little  Bokhara  to  the  disad- 
vantage of  the  latter,  several  Chinamen  were  taken  captives 
and  detained  at  Kokan.  Many  of  these  arrived  at  Orenburg 
with  a  Khivan  caravan,  intending  to  return  through  Russia 
to  their  native  country.  Every  possible  assistance  was  ren- 
dered them,  and  the  staff  of  the  Orenburg  corps  took 
advantage  of  their  arrival  by  endeavouring  to  obtain  from 
them  some  information  concerning  the  unknown  re"ions  of 


Appendiss  III.  535 

and  fifty  Kashgarians.  The  commander  is  a 
Chinese.  They  all  live  together  in  a  little  stone 
fort,  such  as  is  built  at  every  picket  station.  The 
soldiers  are  relieved  every  three  years,  and  do 
not  live  with  their  families  at  the  stations.  They 
obtain  vcater  from  a  rivulet  issuing  from  the 
mountains,  and  losing  itself  in  the  sand  not  far 
from  this  picket. 

Second  night-halt :   Tiigusun. 

Eighty  lis^^from  Turfan  ;  the  picket  or.  guard  con- 
sists of  Chinese,  like  at  Turfan,  and  close  to  it  is 
a  settlement  of  Kashgarians,  which  does  not 
contain  more  than  500  or  ,600  inhabitants.  A 
considerable  trade  in  all  goods  is  carried  on  here 
in  the  shops.  The  settlement  is  situated  on  the 
same  rivulet  as  the  Turfan  picket. 

Third  night-halt :  Subash. 

Eighty  lis  from  Tugusun ;  a  picket  and  small  fort 
in  the  hills.     Water  is  obtained  from  weUs. 

Central  Asia.  Unfortunately,  only  a  few  of  the  statements 
of  Ma-tiang-shi  must  be  accepted  as  deserving  of  credit ; 
the  other  accounts  being  both  contradictory  and  doubtful. 
These,  however,  were  taken  down  as  being  to  a  certain  extent 
instructive,  and  the  manuscript  has  since  been  preserved  in 
the  Siberian  Archives. 


52G  Travels  in  Central  A. 


ma. 


Fourth  night-halt :   Okhobula. 

One  hundred  and  thirty  Us  from  Subash ;  a  picket 
in  the  mountains.  A  rivulet  nnis  from  here 
to  Subash,  where  it  loses  itself  in  the  sand. 

Filth  night-halt :  Kumysh. 

One  hundred  and  forty  lis  from  Okhobula ;  picket. 
Bread  and  water  brought  from  the  mountains, 
and  sold  at  three  different  stages  on  the  road 
between  Okhobula  and  Kumysh,  in  houses 
specially  constructed  for  the  purpose.  The 
Kumysh  picket  obtains  water  from  wells. 
Between  the  stations  caravans  f)-equently  halt 
for  the  night  at  these  houses  for  sprhig  water. 

sixth  night-halt :    Yii.sJniku. 

Ninety  lis  from  Kumysh  picket ;  also  a  picket  with 
settled  residents,  in  five  oi'  si.\  houses  removed 
from  the  town  of  Aksii.  Wells,  are  here  dug  for 
water. 

Seventh  night-halt;    Vshtala. 

;iiOne  himdrcd  and  twenty  lis  from  Yushuku ; 
a  picket  and  si.v;  or  seven  houses  adjoining, 
permanently    occupied    by    traders    who    have 


Appendw  HI.  527 

settled  here  from  different  parts.  A  small 
house  is  constructed  at  each  of  the  three 
different  stages  on  the  road  between  Yushuku 
and  Ushtala,  in  which  are  sold  bread  and 
a  kind  of  black  pea  for  horses ;  money  is 
also  demanded  here  for  well  water.  The  in- 
habitants and  troops  at  Ushtala  obtain  water 
from  springs. 

Eighth  night-halt :  OMng-Shui-Hoza. 

Sixty  lis  from  Ushtala ;  a  picket  and  twenty  houses 
with  occupants,  who  are  obliged  to  furnish  twenty 
of  the  forty  men  composing  the  guard :  the 
other  twenty  are  Chinese.  This  place  is  situated 
on  a  rivulet  bearing  the  name  of  the  station,  and 
flowing  to  the  town  of  Kara-Shagiar. 

Ninth  night-halt :  SJiu-at-Hoza. 

Seventy  lis  from  the  last  picket  station ;  a  picket 
and  a  settlement  consisting  of  thirty  houses ; 
wells  dug  for  water.  The  Ching-shui-Hoza 
rivulet  remains  to  the  left.  Within  ten  lis  from 
Ching-shui-Hoza  picket  the  road  traverses  this 
rivulet  across  a  bridge. 

Tenth  night-halt :  Kara-Shagiar. 

Seventy  lis  from  Shu-at-Hoza ;  a  large  town  in- 


528  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

habited  by  Chinese.  Kalmyks  live  in  huts  about 
the  town  under  the  government  of  a  viroman  of 
their  ovfu  race.  The  number  of  troops  here 
amounts  to  500  men;  there  are  also^  500  shops, 
an  arsenal,  and  a  povrder  magazine.  This 
town  lies  between  two  rivers,  the  first  the  Ching- 
shui-Hoza,  a  small  stream,  the  second  the  large 
and  navigable  Kei-du-Hoa.  The  latter  is  crossed 
in  boats  on  the  road  to  Kashgar,  in  the  first 
stage,  not  far  from  Kara-Shagiar. 

Eleventh  night-halt :  Hiu-Chan. 

Eighty  lis  from  the  town  of  Kara-Shagiar.  The 
Kei-du-Hoa  river  is  crossed  at  one  li  from  the 
town ;  the  current  of  the  river  is  towards  the 
left  bank.  There  are  thirty-li\'e  soldiers  at  Hiu- 
chan,  of  A\'hom  fifteen  are  maintained  and 
billeted  by  Mussulmen  occupying  here  fifteen 
houses.     Spring  water. 

Twelfth  night-halt :  KogoU. 

A  small  town  inhabited  by  Mussulmen,  ninety  lis 
from  Hiu-Chan,  on  the  Shiui-Dalie  rivulet,  which 
issues  from  the  mountains  on  the  right.  There 
are  200  soldiers. 


Appendix  HI.  529 

Thirteenth  night-halt :  Bwgur. 

One  hundred  lis  from  Kogole  ;  a  picket  and  settle- 
ment consisting  of  200  houses  occupied  by  Mus- 
sulmen  agriculturists.  A  rivulet  runs  by  here 
fr'om  the  mountains  on  the  right. 

Fourteenth  night-halt :  Ara-Batai. 

Eighty  lis  from  Bugur ;  a  picket  and  settlement, 
consisting  of  fifty  houses  occupied  by  Mussulmen 
agriculturists.     Spring  water. 

Fifteenth  night-halt :  Tohania. 

One  hundred  and  twenty  lis  from  Ara-Batai ;  a 
picket  and  settlement  of  thirty  houses.  Mussul- 
men inhabitants.     Spring  water. 

Sixteenth  night-halt :  KucMa. 

Seventy  lis  from  Tokania ;  a  very  large  town,  com- 
posed of  100,000  houses,  occupied  by  Mussul- 
men ;  600  Chinese  soldiers.  The  Hi-shu-Hoa 
river  runs  between  the  town  and  the  fort, 
which  is  garrisoned  by  the  Chinese. 

Seventeenth  night-halt :   Yang-shiui-Ku. 

Seventy  lis  from  the  town  of  Kuchia ;  a  picket  and 


530  Traoch  in  Central  Aaia. 

settlement  of  thirty  houses,  occupied  by  Mussul- 
men.     Spring  water. 

Eighteenth  night-halt :   Yareng-Ku. 

* 

One  hundred  and  thirty  hs  from  Yaug-shui-Ku ; 
a  picket  and  settlement  of  thirty  houses,  situated 
on  a  rivulet. 

Nineteenth  night-halt:  Biai-Chin. 

Eighty  lis  from  Yareng-Ku ;  a  large  town  with 
()0,()00  houses,  on  a  rivulet  flowing  from  right 
to  left.  The  Chinese  garrison  consists  of  400 
men. 

Twentieth  night-halt:   Yar-Dju-Ku. 

Sixty  lis  from  the  t(jwn  of  Biai-Chin,  a  picket  and 
settlement  of  thirty  houses  ;  spring  water. 

Twenty -first  night-halt :  Hala-  Yiif/uii. 

-Ninety  lis  from  the  Yar-Dju-Ku ;  a  picket -and 
settlement  of  thirty  houses ;  spring  water. 

Twenty-second  night-halt :  Zamyn. 

Ninety  lis  from  the  Hala-Yugun  picket ;  a  picket 
and  settlement  of  1 00  houses,  on  a  rivulet. 


Appendix  III.  531 

Twenty-third  night-halt :  Aksu. 

Ninety  lis  from  the  Zamyn  picket;  an  immense 
town,  taled  at  500,000  houses.  The  Kum-Bash, 
a  large  river,  runs  westwards  past  the  town ;  it 
is  not  crossed  on  the  route  here  described.  There 
are  700  soldiers  in  the  town. 

Twenty-fourth  night-halt :   Ytmg-Aryk. 

Forty  lis  from  the  town  of  Aksu  ;  a  picket  and 
settlement  of  thirty  houses  on  the  banks  of  the 
Kizyl-Su  river,  which  flows  from  Kashgar. 

Twenty-fifth  night-halt :   Yan-Ali. 

Seventy  lis  from  Yany-Aryk ;  a  picket  and  settle- 
ment composed  of  500  houses  on  the  same  river 
(Kizyl-Su.) 

Twenty-sixth  night-halt :  Shisian-Han. 

140  lis  from  Yau-Ah ;  a  picket  and  settlement  of 
twenty  houses  on  the  same  river  (Kizyl-Su.) 

Twenty- seventh  night-halt :  8hiagim--Tang. 

Seventy  lis  from  Shisian-Han ;  a  picket  and  settle- 
ment of  thirty  houses  on  the  same  river  (Kizyl- 
Su.) 


532  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

Twenty-eighth  night-halt :  SJiiji-Tcmg  (or  Shiai-Tang.) 
Eighty  lis  from  Shiagiar-Tang ;  a  picket  and  settle- 
ment of  thirty  houses  on  the  same  river  (Kizyl- 
Su.) 

Twenty-ninth  night-halt:  Shi-Tang. 

Sixty  lis  from  Shiji-Tang ;  a  picket  and  settlement 
of  thirty  houses  on  the  same  river  (Kizyl-Su.) 

Thirtieth  night-halt :   Yany-Djan-Tkhaidze. 

Eighty  lis  from  Shi-Tang ;  a  picket  and  settlement 
consisting  of  200  houses  on  the  same  river 
(Kizyl-Su),  vFhich,  in  its  course  from  Kashgar, 
makes  a  large  curve  and  approaches  the  road, 
which  is  straight.  Proceeding  from  Turfan  to 
Kashgar,  the  river  beyond  Yany-Djan-Tkhaidze 
runs  far  to  the  right  of  the  road. 

Thirty-first  night  halt :  Tkhu-Thhiai. 

Seventy  lis  from  the  last  place ;  a  picket  and  settle- 
ment of  thirty  houses.     Wells  dug  for  water. 

Thirty-second  night-halt:   TTr-TkJiiai. 

Seventy  lis  from  Tkhu-Tkhiai ;  a  picket  and  settle- 
ment of  thirty  houses.     Wells  dug  for  water. 


Appendix  III.  533 

Thirty-third  night-halt :  San  Tkhiai. 

Sixty  lis  from  Ur-Tkhiai ;  a  picket  and  settlement 
of  thirty  houses.     Wells  dug  for  water. 

Thirty-fourth  night-halt :  8y-Tkhiai. 

Eighty  lis  from  San- Tkhiai ;  a  picket  and  settle- 
ment of  thirty  houses.     Wells  are  dug  for  water. 

Thirty-fffth  night-halt :   U-Tkhiai. 

Ninety  lis  from  Sy-Tkhiai ;  a  picket  and  settlement 
of  thirty  houses.     Water  from  natural  springs. 

Thirty-sixth  night-halt :  Liu  Tkhiai. 

Seventy  lis  from  U-Tkhiai ;  a  picket  and  settlement 
consisting  of  100  houses,  on  a  small  river. 

Thirty-seventh  night-halt :  Chu  Tkhiai. 

Ninety  lis  from  Liu-Tkhiai ;  a  picket  and  settlement 
consisting  of  100  houses,  on  the  same  river. 

Thirty-eighth  night-halt :  Pa  Tkhiai. 

Eighty  lis  from  Chu-Tkhiai ;  a  picket  and  settle- 
ment of  seventy  houses,  on  the  same  river. 

Thirty -ninth  night-halt :   Ywrkend. 

Ninety  lis  from  Pa-Tkhiai ;  an  immense  town,  con- 


534  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

taining  300,000  (?)  houses,  situated  on  the  liver 
Sa-Koa,  flowing  on  the  left  side  of  the  road.  The 
military  force  in  the  town  consists  of  1000  sol- 
diers. Ma-Tiang-Shi  considers  the  town  of 
Yarkend  to  be  five  times  as  large  again  as  Oren- 
burg, where  there  are  1  500  houses. 

Fortieth  night-halt :   Ta-Lian. 

Seventy  lis  from  the  town  of  Yarkend  ;  a  picket 
and  settlement  composed  of  400  houses,  on  a 
small  river. 

Forty-first  night-halt :  Tun-Clian. 

Eighty  lis  from  the  Ta-Lian  settlement ;  a  picket 
and  settlement  of  seventy  houses,  on  a  small 
river. 

Forty-second  night-halt:  Tir-Chan. 

Eighty  lis  from  Tun-Chan  ;  a  picket  and  settle- 
ment consisting  of  200  houses.  Water  is  here 
obtained  from  springs. 

Forty-third  night-halt .   Tala-  Uba. 

Eighty  lis  from  Tir-Chan ;  a  picket  and  settlement 
consisting  of  400  houses,  on  a  small  river. 


Appendix  III.  535 

Forty  fourth  night-halt :   Ycmyshahr. 

Eighty  lis  from  Tala-Uba ;  a  large  town  on  the  Ak- 
Daria  River,  flowing  on  the  left  side  of  the  road. 
In  the  town  there  are  300  soldiers. 

Forty-fifth  night-halt :  Pian  Gho. 

One  hundred  lis  from  the  town  of  Yanyshahr ;  a 
picket  and  settlement  consisting  of  100  houses, 
on  a  small  river. 

Forty-sixth  night-halt :  Kashgar. 

Seventy  lis  from  Pian-Cho ;  an  immense  town, 
containing  160,000  houses,  situated  on  the 
Kizyl-Su  river,  which  runs  from  here  with  a 
large  bend  to  the  Yany-Aryk  picket,  and  thence 
along  the  above  road  to  Yany-Djan-Tkhaidze. 
The  military  force  in  this  town  numbers  1500 
men. 

The  night-halts  are  herein  indicated  at  the 
pickets  and  in  the  settlements ;  but  some  of  the 
stages  of  the  road  are  so  long  that  caravans  are 
sometimes  unable  to  perform  them  in  a  single  day, 
and  are  obliged  to  halt  for  the  night  on  the  road. 
For  this  reason  the  distance  from  Turfan  toKashgar 
is  reckoned  a  passage  of  fifty-eight  days  instead  of 
forty-six. 


APPENDIX    IV. 


Notes  on  the  Intercourse  of  Bitssia  with  Khiva. 
By  G.  Kilhlewehi,  Secretary  to  Col.  Ignatiefs 
Mission  to  Central  Asia. 


[Note. — Since  tlie  foregoing  was  in  type,  attention 
has  been  directed  to  the  accompanying  paper  whicli  is  so 
important,  both  in  itself  and  from  the  official  position  of 
the  writer,  that  no  apology  is  needed  for  including  it  in 
the  Appendix,  although  its  proper  position  would  of  course 
have  been  after  Chapter  III.] 

Khiva  was  in  communication  with  Russia  as  far 
back  as  the  1 4th  century,  but  the  first  official  in- 
tercourse between  those  countries  of  which  there  is 
any  authentic  record  took  place  in  1557,  in  the 
reign  of   Ivan   the  Terrible,   after   the   taking   of 


Appendix  IV.  537 

Kazan,  when  Khivan  Ambassadors  arrived  at  the 
Court  of  the  Tsar  to  ask  for  liberty  to  trade  with 
Russia.  Similar  missions  visited  Moscow,  in 
1563,  1566,  and  1583.  The  present  political 
relations  between  Russia  and  Khiva  may  be  said  to 
date  from  the  latter  part  of  the  17th  century,  since 
when  the  Khivans  have  had  recourse  to  frequent 
missions  and  been  profuse  in  gifts  and  promises 
of  allegiance,  when  sent  to  appease  the  dis- 
pleasure of  the  Russian  Sovereign  for  ravages  com- 
mitted on  their  frontiers  ;  but  strong  in  the  imagi- 
nation of  their  own  inaccessibility,  the  Khivans 
have  always  returned  to  their  evil  practices,  and 
defied  the  power  of  Russia,  until  recalled  to  reason 
by  imminent  dangers  of  chastisement. 

The  Tsars,  on  the  other  hand,  have  alternately 
used  conciliations  and  threats  in  the  pursuit  of 
their  favourite  object,  that  of  opening  a  trade  with 
India  through  the  countries  of  Turkestan.  In  the 
early  part  of  the  17th  century  the  Khivans  com- 
plained of  the  inroads  of  the  Ural  Cossacks,  who  to 
this  day  retain  the  traditions  of  their  campaigns 
against  Khiva.  In  1602,  the  Cossacks  even  took 
Khiva,  but  were  defeated  on  their  return  thence. 
In  1622,  Afghan,  the  Khan  of  Khiva,  expelled  by 
his. relations,  sought  the  protection  of  Tsar  Michael 

N  N 


53y  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

Fedorovitch,  and  oiFered,  if  restored  to  his  dignity, 
to  become  a  vassal  of  Russia. 

A  Khivan  envoy  presented  to  Peter  the  Great 
in  1700,  a  letter  from  Khan  Shamaz,  in  which  the 
latter  asked  the  Tsar  to  receive  the  allegiance  of 
the  people  subject  to  him.  By  a  letter  of  the  30th 
July,  Peter  intimated  his  compliance  with  that 
request,  confirming  it  subsequently  in  1703  by  a 
letter  to  the  new  Khan  of  Khiva,  Arak  Ahmet. 
The  Moscow  Journal,  of  April,  1703,  contained  the 
following  notice  on  this  subject : — 

"  The  Khan  of  Khiva  has  sent  his  Ambassadors  to 
OLir  High  Lord  and  King,  requesting  the  High 
Lord  to  allow  him,  the  Khan  of  Khiva,  with  all 
those  under  his  dominionsj  to  render  for  ever 
allegiance  to  His  IMajcsty  the  Tsar,  which  om' 
Sovereign  Lord  has  graciously  granted,  and  now 
sends  his  Ambassador  to  the  Khan  of  Khiva." 

At  this  time  there  were  reports  of  gold  sand 
being  found  on  the  Amu-Daria  (Oxus),  the  Caspani 
mouths  of  which  were  said  to  be  purposely  filled 
up  by  the  Khivans,  and  its  waters  deflected  into 
the  Aral ;  and  that  it  would  be  easy  to  destroy 
the  dams  erected  by  the  Khivans  and  to  restore  the 
river  to  its  ancient  bed.  This  hitelligence  was 
brought  to  Astrakhan  iiy  a  Tm-kman  called  Hodja- 


Appendix  IF.  539 

Nefes.  At  AstrakHan,  Nefes  made  the  acquaint- 
ance of  Prince  Samonof,  a  native  of  Ghilian,  con- 
verted to  Christianity,  w^ith  whom  he  set  out  in 
1713,  for  Moscow,  to  propose  to  the  Emperor  that 
he  should  seize,  with  assistance  of  the  Turkmen, 
the  country  bordering  the  Oxus,  then  in  the  pos- 
session of  the  Uzbeks.  Prince  Gagarin,  Governor 
of  Siberia,  arrived  in  Moscow  the  same  year  with  a 
report  to  His  Majesty  on  the  gold  sands  of  Little 
Bokhara.  Hodja-Nefes  and  Prince  Samonof  were 
presented  to  the  Emperor  by  Prince  Bekovitch- 
Cherkaski,  Captain  of  the  body-guard,  and  in  great 
favour  with  the  Emperor.  Ashur-Bek,  the  Khivan 
Envoy  then  at  the  Russian  Court,  confirmed  the 
report  about  the  gold  sand  of  the  Oxus ;  he  re- 
mained at  St.  Petersburg,  from  1713  to  1715,  and 
enjoyed  the  favour  of  Peter  the  Great.  He  was 
also  very  intimate  with  Prince  Gagarin,  voivode  of 
Siberia. 

Ashur-Bek  suggested  that  Peter  the  Great  should 
construct  at  the  old  mouth  of  the  Oxus,  probably 
on  Krasnovoda  spit,  a  fort  capable  of  containing 
1000  men,  and  told  His  Majesty,  that  the  Khan 
would  not  oppose  the  destruction  of  the  dams  re- 
ported to  have  been  constructed,  nor  the  restoration 
of  the  Amu  to  its  former  bed. 

N   N   2 


540  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

This  Envoy  was  dismissed  from  St.  Petersburg, 
in  1715,  the  Emperor  giving  him  among  other 
presents  for  the  Khan  six  guns  with  everjrthing 
complete,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  powdef ; 
but  these  were  taken  away  and  the  Envoy  tempo- 
rarily detained  at  Astrakhan  in  consequence  of  a 
revolution  at  Khiva.  Yadi-ber  had  died  in  1714, 
and  was  succeeded  by  Khan  Arang,  of  the  Kara- 
kalpak  tribe,  who  was  in  his  tm'n  replaced  by  Khan 
Shirgazi  of  Bokhara. 

In  a  letter  of  the  5th  March,  1715,  to  Chirikof, 
the  CoDxmandant  of  Astrakhan,  Ashur-Bek,  writes 
that  he  was  commissioned  by  the  Emperor  Peter 
to  go  to  India  for  the  purchase  of  parrots  and 
panthers. 

It  is  probable  that  Peter,  wishing  to  ascertain 
the  nearest  route  to  India,  and  to  establish  com- 
mercial relations  with  that  rich  coimtry  (as  further 
indicated  in  the  subsequent  appointment  of  Lieu- 
tenant Kojin  and  the  Murza  Tevkele),  sent  Ashur- 
Bek  on  a  mission  of  that  kind,  who,  after  making 
the  necessary  purchases  in  India,  was  to  have  re- 
turned to  St.  Petersburg. 

In  the  year  1716,  Prince  Bekovitch  Cherkaski 
(of  Circassia),  was  sent  as  envoy  to  Khiva  and 
Bokhara,  to  inquire  about  the  gold,  the  East  Indies, 


Appendix  IV.  541 

the  trade  of  those  countries,  and  other  local  cir- 
cumstances. Many  officers  were  sent  with  him  to 
survey  the  Caspian  and  Aral  seas,  and  for  other 
purposes.  Prmce  Samonof  and  Hodja-Nefes  were 
hkewise  with  him,  and  the  rest  of  his  suite  consisted 
of  merchants  from  Astrakhan  and  other  parts  of 
Russia,  Tartars,  and  Bokharians,  numbering  about 
200  men.  On  the  road,  after  passing  the  Emba 
river,  he  received  an  autograph  order  from  the 
Emperor  to  send  to  India,  through  Persia,  a  man 
acquainted  with  the  language  of  these  countries  in 
whom  confidence  might  be  placed,  and  who  should 
collect  information  about  this  country,  and  particu- 
larly about  the  rivers  where  gold  was  reported  to 
abound,  returning  to  Russia  by  way  of  China  and 
Bokhara.  Murza  Tevkelef  was  accordingly  sent. 
The  barbarous  murder,  in  1717,  of  Prince 
Bekovitch*  at  Porsu,  a  town  about  seventy  miles 
N.W.  of  Khiva,  in  which,  however,  the  Khan  of 
Bokhara  was  not  implicated,  put  an  end  to  their 
enterprise. 

During  the  reign  of  the  Empress  Anne,  in  1731, 
Colonel  Erdberg  was  sent  as  envoy  to  Khiva,  but 

*  His  head  was  stuffed  with  hay  and  sent  to  the  Emir  of 
Bokhara,  in  token  of  victory.  The  soldiers  forming  the  ex- 
pedition were  either  murdered  or  reduced  to  slavery.  Vido 
Chap.  II.,  p.  24. 


542  Travels  in  Coilral  Asia. 

being  pillaged  on  the  road,  he  was  obliged  to  return 
unsuccessful.      Nine   years    after,    in    1740,   the 
Khivans   invited  Abdul-Kaira,  then   Chief  of  the 
Lesser  Horde  of  Kirghizes,  subject  to  Russia  since 
1730,  to  reign  over  them  as  Khan,  and  he  was 
accordingly  elected.     On  assuming  the  sovereignty 
of  Khiva,  Abdul-Haira  declared  the  Khanat  to  be 
subject  to  Russia,  thinking  by  that  means  to  arrest 
the  march  of  Nadir,  Shah  of  Persia,  then  on  his 
way  to  attack  him.     At  that  time  there  were  two 
Russian  officers  at  the  Coiu't  of  the  Khan — Lieu- 
tenant Gladishef  and  a  topographical  engineer  of 
the  name  of  Muravin.     They  had  been  sent  at  the 
request  of  Abdul-Haira  to  build  a  town  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Syr-Daria  (laxartes).     They  had  orders  to 
make  a  preliminary  smvey  of  the  locality,  but  not 
finding  the  Khan  at  his  Horde,  they  proceeded  to 
Khiva.     Muravin  was  then  sent  by  the  Khan  to 
meet  Nadir  Shah,  and  ask  for  mercy,  but  his  inter- 
cession was  of  no  avail,   and  the  Shah  soon  after 
took  Khiva  by  assault.* 

In  1750,  during  the  reign  of  the  Empress 
Elizabeth,   the    Khivans   proposed,   through  their 

*  See  account  of  Giadishef  s  and  Muravin's  Journey  from 
Orsk  to  Kbiva  and  back,  in  IT-lO-il.  Ed.  by  Khanikof  in 
1851. 


Appendix  IV.  543 

envoy,  Ir-Bek,  an  intimate  alliance  with  their 
country.  This  did  not,  however,  prevent  a  Russian 
caravan  from  being  pillaged  the  following  year. 

Doctor  or  Major  Blankenagel  was  sent  to  Khiva 
in  1792,  by  the  Empress  Catherine  II.,  at  the 
special  request  of  the  Khan.  Being  persecuted  by 
the  latter  for  his  inability  to  cure  blindness,  he  was 
obliged  to  flee  for  his  life,  and  returned  to  Russia 
by  way  of  Mangyshlak  and  Astrakhan. 

After  Abdul-Haira  another  subject  of  Russia  was 
chosen  Khan  of  Khiva,  namely  Nurali,  son  of 
Abdul-Haira.  In  1750  Khiva  was  governed  by 
Kaip,  a  Kirghiz  Sultan,  also  subject  to  Russia ;  and 
even  to  the  year  1800  the  Inekhs  or  successors,  were 
always  elected  from  among  Kirghiz  and  Karakalpak 
princes  subject  to  Russia,  who  to  this  day  are  the 
sole  lawful  heirs  to  the  throne  of  Khiva,  being  of 
the  "white  bone,"  as  descendants  of  Mahommed  and 
Genghis-Khan.  When  Iltizer,  an  Uzbek  prince, 
subdued  the  petty  princes  at  the  beginning  of  the 
present  century,  and  took  the  title  of  Khan  of 
Kharesm,  the  subjection  of  Khiva  to  Russia 
ceased,  and  was  even  replaced  by  an  offensive 
policy.  This  is  more  particularly  remarkable  in  the 
reign  of  Mahommed  Rahim,  brother  of  Iltizer, 
between  1801  and  1834.     He  began  by  subjecting 


544  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

the  Aral  territory,  now  no  longer  in  existence,  and 
oppressed  in  various  ways  the  Kirghizes  tributary 
to  Russia.*  He  made  inroads  on  the  latter,  drove 
away  their  cattle,  and  induced  whole  camps  to  enter 
his  dominions,  so  that  at  last  the  whole  of  the  Lesser 
Horde  was  compelled  to  pay  tribute  to  the  Khan 
of  Khiva.  At  the  time  of  the  death  of  Mahommed 
Rahim,  in  1824,  the  Khivan  Khanat,  says  M. 
Khanikof,  possessed  already  the  form  of  political 
unity,  actually  subject  to  the  ruler  of  Khiva, 
acquiring  thereby  a  certain  amount  of  political  im- 
portance. But  this  reform,  although  a  decided 
success  if  compared  with  the  previous  state  of  the 
Khanat,  was  nevertheless  not  sufficient  to  make  the 
latter  important  either  as  an  enemy  or  an  ally  of 
Russia. 

The  insolence  of  the  Khans  of  Khiva  was,  how- 
ever, so  great  on  several  occasions,  that  Russia  was 
more  than  once  on  the  point  of  punishing  them. 
Twice,  in  fact,  viz.,  in  1801  and  1804,  the  seizure 
of  Khiva  had  been  ordered  by  the  Emperors  Paul 


*  The  Aral  territory,  lying  to  tHe  Soutb  of  the  Aral,  was 
long  independent,  but  at  last  became  tributary  to  Khiva  in 
the  reign  of  Mahommed  Eahim.  The  majority  of  its  popu- 
lation was  composed  of  Uzbeks,  but  there  was  a  considerable 
number  of  Karakalpaks  and  Kirghizes. 


Appendix  IF.  545 

and  Alexander,  but  the  expeditions  were  delayed, 
owing  to  some  disturbances  in  the  Orenburg 
country,  although  in  1803  the  Khivans  disputed 
the  passage  of  a  Russian  mission  to  Bokhara  under 
Lieutenant  Gaverdovsky,  from  Orsk. 

Captain  (afterwards  General)  Muravief  travelled 
in  1819  and  1830  from  Mangishlak  Bay,  in  the 
Caspian,  to  Khiva,  having  been  sent,  together  with 
a  Bashkir  official,  to  negotiate  with  the  Khan ;  but 
they  were  unsuccessful,  and  Muravief,  after  bemg 
detained  some  time  a  prisoner,  narrowly  escaped 
with  his  life.* 

In  order  to  put  an  end  to  the  depredations  of  the 

*  In  1835  the  Russian  Government,  finding  that  they 
could  not  put  an  end  to  the  intrusions  of  the  Khivans,  and 
the  excesses  which  they  committed,  resolved  on  more 
rigorous  measures,  and  seized  a  site  near  Mangishlak  on  the 
Eastern  shore  of  the  Caspian,  opposite  Astrakhan,  and  built 
a  fort  which  commanded  the  landing  places  in  the  bay. 

This  gave  great  offence  to  TJUah  Kuli-Khan,  who  remon- 
strated strongly,  and  failing  here  threatened  to  send  out 
plundering  parties  more  numerous  than  before.  He  com- 
plained to  the  Khans  of  Bokhara  and  Khiva  about  the 
division  of  his  country,  but  they  gave  him  no  assistance, 
while  they  admitted  the  justice  of  his  demand.  The  E.us- 
sians,  shortly  after  occupying  the  Eastern  bank  of  the 
Caspian,  sent  out  a  reconnoitring  party  of  about  120  men, 
under  two  men  of  rank.  They  were  all  brought  to  Urgendj 
and  sold  as  slaves  in  Bokhara  and  Kokan,  notwithstanding 
the  remonstrances  of  the  Emperor  of  Russia. — Buenes. 


546  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

Khivans  and  to  liberate  the  many  prisoners  they  had 
made  on  the  Caspian  and  on  the  Orenburg  line  of 
frontier,  the  Emperor  Nicholas  ordered,  in  1836, 
an  embargo  to  be  laid  on  all  Khivan  traders  and 
their  goods,  found  on  the  frontier  lines  of  Orenburg 
and  Siberia,  in  Astrakhan,  or  within  any  of  the 
dominions  of  Russia.  In  return  for  these  the  Khan 
was  called  upon  to  give  up  his  Russian  prisoners, 
numbering  several  hundred  men,  and  cease  all 
offensive  measures  towards  Russia.  The  Khivans 
were  not  to  be  released,  nor  was  any  trade  to  be 
carried  on  between  the  two  countries,  until  these 
conditions  had  been  fulfilled. 

The  Khivan  traders  in  Russia*  were  accordingly 
detained,  in  August,  1836,  on  their  return  from  the 
fair  of  Nijni-Novgorod.  The  Governor- General  of 
the  Orenburg  country  then  informed  Allah-Kul, 
the  Khan  of  Khiva  from  1824  to  1840  (a  son  of 
Mahommed  Rahim),  of  the  measures  which  had 
been  adopted  by  the  Emperor,  and  demanded  the 
restoration  of  all  the  Russian  prisoners  and  the  im- 
mediate suspension  of  his  evil  designs  against  Russia, 

*  These  are  said  to  have  been  forty-six  in  number.  This 
summary  proceeding  gave  great  offence  to  the  Chiefs  of 
Turkestan,  who  at  once  commenced  a  system  of  retaliation. — 

BUENES. 


Appendix  IV.  547 

threatening  the  retention  of  the  Khivan  traders 
with  their  goods,  and  the  interruption  of  all  com- 
mercial intercourse,  until  these  conditions  were 
carried  out.*  The  first  effect  of  these  measures  was 
the  arrival  of  a  courier  with  letters,  in  the  month  of 
January,  1837.  The  Khivan  messenger  declared 
that  the  Khan  was  ready  to  deliver  his  Russian 
prisoners,  if  Russia  liberated  the  Khivan  traders 
and  destroyed  'Fort  Novo-Alexandrovsk  on  the 
Caspian.  The  Khivans  were  told  that  the  traders 
would  only  be  released  on  the  return  of  the  Russians 
detained  in  Khiva;  and  their  insolent  demand 
respectingFort  Novo-Alexandrovsk  was  treated  with 
silence.  In  the  month  of  November  of  the  same 
year,  Kabul-Bai  arrived  at  Orenburg  as  envoy  from 
Khiva,  bringing  twenty  five  Russian  prisoners  and 
considerable  presents.  His  son  was  amongst  the 
Khivans  detained  at  Orenburg.    The  Khan,  finding 

*  Greneral  Perovsky  wrote  as  follows  to  the  Khan  on 
the  18th  September,  1836 : — "  Tour  actions  are  bad,  and  bad 
seed  produces  bad  fruit.  If  you  wish  to  come  to  your 
senses  in  time,  return  all  your  Russian  prisoners  at  once, 
and  promise  to  conduct  yourself  peacefully  and  amicably  in 
future ;  do  not  countenance  rapine  and  murder,  nor  interfere 
with  the  gOTernment  of  the  Kaisals;  people ;  give  the  sub- 
jects of  the  Emperor  of  Russia  the  privileges  His  Majesty 
gives  to  yours  in  his  own  dominions,  and  the  past  will  be 
forgotten." 


548  Travels  in  Centred  Asia. 

that  his  subjects  were  well  treated  m  Russia, 
thought  he  would  get  out  of  his  difficulty  by  the 
exercise  of  some  cunning,  and  accordingly  assured 
the  Russians  that  he  had  taken  some  trouble  to 
collect  the  prisoners,  and  that  if  any  still  remained 
they  would  be  liberated.  It  was  ascertained  from 
the  Russians  who  returned  that  the  Khan  was 
afraid  of  being  met  with  other  demands  after  ful- 
filling the  first  conditions,  and  that  he  would  be 
made  to  pay  Kun,  or  the  price  of  blood,  for  the 
murder  of  Prince  Bekovitch,  and  give  satisfaction 
for  the  numerous  robberies  of  caravans,  or  even 
Kun  for  all  Russians  who  had  died  in  captivity. 
This  is  why  he  only  sent  twenty-five  prisoners  by 
Kabul-Bai.  The  envoy  was  sent  back  the  same 
month  with  the  answer  that  the  demands  made 
by  Russia  would  not  be  modified,  that  the  release 
of  all  the  prisoners  would  be  insisted  on,  and  that 
until  these  demands  were  complied  with,  every 
Khivan  subject  entering  the  dominion  of  Russia 
would  be  detained,  and  kept  until  a  general  ex- 
change of  prisoners  took  place.  After  waiting 
two  years,  scarcely  1 00  men  were  restored,  while 
in  1839  about  200  and  more  fishermen  had  been 
seized  on  the  Caspian. 

It  was  now  evident  that  the  interests  of  Russia, 


Appendix  IV.  549 

the  prosperity  of  her  trade,  and  the  well-being  of 
her  subjects,  could  only  be  secured  by  more  active 
measures.  On  the  14th  (36th  November,  1839,  a 
declaration  was  published  at  Orenburg,  of  the  causes 
and  objects  of  the  military  operations  against  Khiva. 
That  document  proceeded  to  say: — "Just  and  rea- 
sonable considerations  have  induced  His  Majesty  the 
Emperor  to  send  a  military  force  against  Khiva  in 
order  to  secure  by  force  of  arms  the  rights  and 
interests  of  Russian  subjects,  to  put  an  end  to 
pillage  and  rapine,  to  liberate  prisoners  then  in 
Khiva,  to  inspire  the  respect  due  to  Russia,  and  to 
establish  the  influence  indisputably  belonging  to 
her,  and  which  was  the  only  guarantee  for  the 
maintenance  of  peace  in  that  portion  of  Asia. 
Such  is  the  object  of  the  intended  expedition 
against    Khiva." 

The  results  are  well  known.  Leaving  in 
winter,  the  forces  under  General  Perovski 
were  obliged  to  return  without  reaching  Khiva, 
owing  to  the  severe  frost  and  the  depth  of  the 
snow.  The  expedition,  which  numbered  5000 
men,  had  nevertheless  the  effect  of  bringing  the 
Khan  to  his  senses,  though  temporarily.  In  the 
summer  of  1840  he  released  all  the  Russian 
prisoners.      Shakespere,   an    English  ofHcer  who 


550  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 

had  arrived  at  Khiva  from  Cabul  in  1839,  under- 
took to  conduct  the  prisoners  to  Russia.  They 
were  about  400,  and  had  been  taken  at  various 
periods  between  1780  and  1839.  Some  of  them 
occupied  high  positions  in  Khiva;  thus  one  of  them, 
William  Laurentief,  was  Chief  of  the  Artillery,  while 
Ann  Kostin,  the  wife  of  a  soldier,  acted  as  house- 
keeper to  Khan  AUah-Kul. 

On  the  18th  July,  1840,  the  Khan  of  Khiva 
issued  a  proclamation  or  firman  abolishing  the 
trade  in  Russian  slaves,  and  prohibiting  inroads 
into  the  Russian  dominions ;  this,  coupled  w\.i\\  the 
releasing  of  the  prisoners,  was  considered  satisfac- 
tory by  the  Russian  Government,  audit  was  deter- 
mined to  renew  commercial  relations  and  open 
negotiations  with  the  Khivans. 

Lieutenant  Aitof,  Avho  had  also  been  detained 
in  Khiva,  returned  to  Orenbiu-g  before  the  arrival 
of  the  other  prisoners  on  the  18th  (30th)  October, 
1840.  He  accompanied  to  St.  Petersburg  a  Khi- 
van  envoy,  Athanias,  Hodja-Reis'  Mufti,  who  brought 
a  letter  addressed  to  the  Emperor,  and  returned  in 
the  spring  of  1841.  There  were  three  envoys 
after  him  from  Khiva,  but  none  of  them  went  to 
St.  Petersburg. 

In  1841,  Captain  Nikiforof  was  despatched  with 


Appendix  IV.  551 

one  of  these  envoys  (Shinar  Mahmet-Niaz),  as  agent, 
with  instructions  to  re-establish  relations  with 
Khiva,  and,  if  possible,  to  make  some  kind  of 
treaty  ;  but  he  returned  without  success. 

Colonel  DanUevski,  another  diplomatic  agent,  was 
sent  to  Khiva  in  1842.  He  succeeded  in  making 
the  first  treaty  between  Russia  and  Khiva.  During 
his  residence  in  Khiva,  AUah-Kul  died,  and  was 
succeeded  by  his  son,  Rahim-Kul.  But  treaties 
and  stipulations  were  of  no  avail.  The  Khivans 
still  continued  to  injure  Russia  in  the  Kirghiz 
Steppe,  and  endeavoured  to  strengthen  themselves  as 
much  as  possible  on  the  Syr-Daria  (laxartes,)  where 
Russia  had  been  for  many  years  past  erecting  forti- 
fications. The  construction  of  forts  on  the  Syr- 
Daria  frightened  the  Khivans ;  they  fully  appre- 
ciate the  importance  of  the  occupation  of  the  bank 
of  the  river,  saying  that  if  the  Russians  are  to 
drink  the  waters  of  the  Syr-Daria  with  them,  they 
can  no  longer  exist.  Since  the  erection  of  Fort 
Perovski,  Khiva  has  evidently  been  afraid  of  open 
war  with  Russia.  Thus  she  has  always  evaded 
the  invitation  of  an  alliance  with  Kokan  against  the 
Russians.  Without  openly  manifesting  any  un- 
friendly disposition  towards  Russia,  Khiva  never 
ceased  to  avail  herself  of  opportunities  to  injure 


552  Travch  in   Central  Asia. 

Russia  in  secret,  by  continuing  to  send  spies  and 
gatherers  of  tribute  into  the  Steppe.  She  urged 
the  thoughtless  Kirghizes  to  a  fanatical  enmity  to- 
wards Russia,  supported  the  insurrectionary  at- 
tempt of  Kenisar,  Iset  Kutebar,  Nazar  and  other 
Kirghiz  rebels,  by  promises  of  assistance  in  case  of 
open  rebellion.  In  addition  to  her  own  disposition, 
she  was  probably  incited  by  Turkey,  which  was 
visited  by  her  envoys  in  1853  and  1854. 

Since  1856,  Khiva  is  governed  by  Said  Moham- 
med, son  of  Khan  Mohammed  Rahim,  and  brother 
of  the  celebrated  Allah-Kul.  He  was  elected  to 
the  Khanat  in  185G,  at  the  age  of  thirty.  His 
election  was  preceded  by  many  disturbances  and 
internecine  wars  ;  but  these  have  ceased  for  the 
present.  In  1857,  Said  Mohammed  sent  Fazil- 
Hodja,  the  Sheikh- Ul-Islam  of  the  Khanat,  to  an- 
nounce his  accession  and  to  convey  his  condolence 
on  the  death  of  the  Emperor  Nicholas,  and  his  con- 
gratulation on  the  accession  of  the  present  Emperor. 


THE    END. 


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