Full text of "England as seen by foreigners in the days of Elizabeth & James the First. Comprising translations of the journals of the two Dukes of Wirtemberg in 1592 and 1610; both illustrative of Shakespeare"

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479 PATIN (Chas.) Relations Historiques e¥l
Curieuses de Voyages en Allernagne, Angleterre, |
Holland, etc. 12mo, portrait and curious plates, calf
neat, scarce. 3s 1695

B> ~ -■■ -

ENGLAND at the Beginning of the Nineteenth
Century, from the French of the Duke de
Levis, vol I. (all published) 8vo, calf extra,
gilt edges, 4s 6d 1815

This copy belonged to Thomas Faulkner (the trans-
lator) who has inserted a tine mezzotint portrait of
himself, and about 2i other portraits and views, be-
sides two letters.

ENGLAND

AS SEEN BY

FOREIGNERS.

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" WOULD THEY BELIEVE ME
IF I SHOULD SAY, I SAW SUCH ISLANDERS ? "

TEMPEST, ACT III. SC. V

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ENGLAND AS SEEN BY FOREIGNERS

IN THE DAYS OF

ELIZABETH AND JAMES. THE FIRST.

COMPRISING TRANSLATIONS OF THE JOURNALS OF THE TWO

DUKES OF WIRTEMBERG

IN 1592 AND l6lO; BOTH ILLUSTRATIVE OF

SHAKESPEARE.

WITH EXTRACTS FROM THE TRAVELS OF FOREIGN PRINCES AND OTHERS,
COPIOUS NOTES, AN INTRODUCTION, AND ETCHINGS.

BY WILLIAM BRENCHLEY RYE,

ASSISTANT-KEEPER 07 THE DEPARTMENT OF PRINTED BOOKS\ BRITISH MUSEUM.

LONDON:

JOHN RUSSELL SMITH,

SOHO SQUARE.
1865.

h. 314-1 13

CONTENTS.

Synopsis of Introduction ....

Introduction

I. Frederick, Duke of Wirtemberg
II. Lewis Frederick, Prince of Wirtem-
berg

REIGN OF QUEEN ELIZABETH.

III. Emanuel Van METEREN.aDutch Mer-

chant

IV. Levinus Lemnius, a Dutch Physician
V. Hieronymus Turler, a German .

VI. Samuel Kiechel, a German . . .
VII. Norden's Notes on London and West-
minster

Lewis, Prince of Anhalt, used

in the Notes and Introduction .

VIII. Paul Hentzner, a German . . .

REIGN OF JAMES I.

IX. Juan Fernandez de Velasco, Con-
stable of Castile ....
X. Johann Jacob Grasser, a Swiss
XI. Justus Zinzerling, a German .
XII. Sights and Exhibitions . .

XIII. Otto, Prince of Hesse . .

XIV. John Ernest, Duke of Saxe-Weimar
XV. Pictures, &c. in the Royal Palaces

XVI. Peter Eisenberg, a Dane . . . .
XVII. Valentin Arithm-Eus, a German .

Notes

Index

Date

I59Z
l6lO

1558-161

1560

IS74
I S 8 S

1592

1596
1598

1604

c 1606

c 1610

161 1

1613
1613
1614
1617

Language of
original work

German

French MS.

Dutch
Latin
Latin

German

Eng. MS.

German
Latin

Spanish
German

Latin
English
German
German
German
German

Latin

Page
vii, viii
ix-cxxxii
i-53

55-66

67-73
75-80
81-84
85-90

QI-IOO

IOI-II3

II5-IZ4
I25-I28
I29-I35
I37-I4O
I4I-I45

H7-I55
I57-167

169-I73

175-178

179-283

285-3OO

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Etchings.
i. Comedians acting before Prince Charles, 1623

2. Portrait of Frederick, Duke of Wirtemberg .

3. Ceiling in Theobalds Palace ....

4. Portrait of Lewis Frederick, Prince of Wirtemberg

5. James I. feasting the Spanish Ambassadors, 1623

6. Preaching at Paul's Cross, 1621

7. Drebbel's Perpetual Motion ....

Woodcut.

8. Caron House, Lambeth .....

Page
ex

117

188

2 35
231

SYNOPSIS OF INTRODUCTION.

FOREIGN Travel. — Foreigners coming to England during
the two reigns chiefly Germans, ix-xii.

Englishmen abroad. — Collections of Travels by Hakluyt
and Purchas, xiii.

Remarkable Travels by Moryson and Coryat, temp. Elizabeth and
James, xiv-xvii.

Passages from Shakespeare on the advantages of Foreign Travel,
xvii, xviii.

Quotations from several early English works in praise and censure
of Foreign Travel. — Precepts for travelling, xix-xxviii.

Remarks on the Travels of German Princes in the sixteenth and
seventeenth centuries, xxix, xxx.

Albums, xxxi-xxxiii.

Handbooks of Travel Talk in several languages (including English),
published in Holland, sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. — Specimens
from the Foreign-English Dialogues, xxxiv, xxxv.

English Pronunciation of Latin, xxxvi, xxxvii.

Retrospect of Travels to England undertaken by Foreigners, from
the time of Edward IV, 1466, to the reign of Elizabeth, xxxviii-1.

Story of a wandering Princess, Cecilia, daughter of Gustavus Vasa,
King of Sweden, who visited England in 1565, li-liv.

Story of a Polish nobleman, 1583, lv.

Biography of Frederick, Duke of Wirtemberg, from original sources,
introducing his correspondence with Queen Elizabeth and James I.
(Record Office and British Museum) ; especially with reference to
the Duke's desire to be made a Knight of the Garter, lv-xciv.

viii Synopsis of Introduction.

Breuning, the Duke of Wirtemberg's Ambassador, charged by Lord
Burghley with drunkenness on appearing before Queen Elizabeth. —
Explanation and Apology of the Ambassador, 1595 (MS. Brit. Mus.),
lxv, lxvi.

Breuning's quarrel with Count Philip von Solms, the Ambassador of
Hesse Cassel, lxvii, lxviii.

Sharp Message sent by Queen Elizabeth to the Duke. — Presents to
the Queen, lxix-lxxi.

The Duke elected a Knight of the Garter, 1597, lxxii.

Embassy from the Duke of Wirtemberg to James I, 1603, lxxvi.

Special Embassy sent by the King to invest the Duke at Stuttgart. —
Description of the Ceremony of investiture from a contemporary Latin
work, lxxvii-lxxxii.

Special Embassy from the Duke to Windsor at the Feast of the
Order of the Garter, with presents of horses, &c. 1604. — Silver Garter-
plate of the Duke at Windsor, and its subsequent fate, lxxxiii-lxxxvii.

Duke Frederick's character. — Original Journal of his Travels to
England. — Portrait at Hampton Court, and prints, lxxxviii-xciv.

Question of Shakespeare's allusion to this Duke of Wirtemberg in
the Merry Wives of Windsor (act iv. sc. 5.) as " Duke de Jamanie " and
" Cosen Garmombles," the title by which he was known in England
being Count Mompelgard. — Remarks on this subject by Messrs. C.
Knight, J. O. Halliwell, H. Staunton, and Dr. W. Bell, xciv-ciii.

Custom of English Actors to travel and perform plays in Germany
and the Netherlands. — Some new evidence of this custom, in one in-
stance immediately connected with the Duke of Wirtemberg, ciii-cxi.

Biography of Prince Lewis Frederick, son of the Duke. His corre-
spondence with James I. (Record Office and British Museum.) He
sees Othello acted. — Account of the Prince's visit to Cambridge, by
Bishop Hacket, cxii-cxx.

Hentzner and other foreign travellers in the present volume re-
ferred to, cxxi-cxxiii.

Strangers and sojourners in England, as Secretaries and in other
capacities. — G. Rudolph Weckherlin. — Death of Abraham Vanderdort,
Keeper of Charles the First's pictures, cxxiii-cxxxii.

INTRODUCTION.

Courteous and Gentle Reader,

ITH all becoming respect we beg leave
to introduce to your favourable notice a
group of " intelligent foreigners," who,
in the ensuing pages, will discourse, if
not very learnedly, at least it is hoped
pleasantly and profitably, on the fascinating and attractive
theme of Old England — its men and manners, its women
and their ways, as they were seen and noted by those
observing foreigners during the glorious effulgence of
the Shakespearian era.

To assemble this group of foreigners who have
recorded their impressions of England and the English
has not been the task of a day ; for no bibliographical
guide to such works exists. Our knowledge of them
is only gained by degrees, as the books occur at sales or
in the catalogues of foreign booksellers. The majority

x Introduction.

of those here selected have only of late years found a
place on the shelves of our National Library. They
are, moreover, of the greatest rarity in this country.
Horace Walpole, upwards of a century ago, and before
the foundation of a British Museum, met with one book
of the kind, viz. Hentzner's " Itinerary," and he alludes
to the scarcity of that work in his Preface to the trans-
lation of the portion relating to England, of which he
printed a few copies only at his private press at Straw-
berry Hill in 1757. We believe that this book by
Hentzner is the only one of a foreigner's travel to and
stay in this country in the reign of Elizabeth as yet
known to the public through an English translation,
while no work of the kind has been published relating
to the next reign.

Among the foreigners admitted into our collection
we find no less than ten Germans (five of them
princes), two Dutchmen, one Swiss, one Dane, and
one Spaniard. The number of Germans who visited
us is remarkable, and may be accounted for by the
peculiar character of the people, then, as now, curious,
inquiring, fond of peregrinating, journalizing, and
seeing the fruits of their pen and ink in print. One
of our Dutchmen was settled in London as a mer-
chant, the other came over to see his son who was
practising in England as a physician. We note also
the total absence of Frenchmen and Italians during the

Introduction. xi

two reigns, and see the Spaniards only reappearing at
the beginning of that of James I, when, true to his
motto of Beati pacifici, he concluded a peace between
the two nations which had so long been bitter enemies.
The Frenchman would probably travel mainly pour
s'amuser; and in England it is likely that at that time
his reception would not be so agreeable as in the neigh-
bouring countries of the Continent.

The cessation of diplomatic relations between the
Governments of Venice and of England, on the score of
antagonistic religion, at the Accession of Queen Eliza-
beth, will account for the want of any of those valuable
Reports (relazioni) of England during her reign, which
the Venetian Ambassadors were bound to present to the
Senate on returning from their missions. In place, then,
of records of travel, descriptive of the country visited, we
may encounter whole volumes of diplomatic correspond-
ence carried on by the French, Spanish, and other am-
bassadors who resided at our Court, and who were too
apt to rely more on their imaginations than on facts ; it
therefore becomes the historian's duty to approach these
chronicles of scandal with the utmost caution and
distrust.

Let us not, however, expect to find the descriptions
and opinions, as delivered in these pages by foreigners,
respecting our country and people, exhibiting the
roseate hue of admiration and panegyric ; let us rather

xii Introduction.

look for a wider, more variegated, and more chequered
field, where we may encounter some observations, ac-
cording to the humour of the writer, expressed in a
grave, some in a gay and lively, others again, and more
frequently, in a severe strain ; presented to us, in short,
under divers aspects. And should those observations
and opinions happen to be offensively put, let us abstain
from discourteous rejoinders, in terms like those which
were applied to the traveller Pinto of old. 1 . We confess
to being a proud people, but we deny that we are per-
fidious, and we by no means desire to " see ourselves as
others see us ;" nevertheless we can afford to be generous,
and will pardon slight mistakes, misapprehensions, and
misconceptions as to our national character, &c. Let
us then be thankful ,for these helps to self-knowledge,
and accept them " for better, for worse." Nor will the
infliction of censure cause any serious shock to our
sensibilities, seeing that we have been accustomed to
receive sundry hard knocks at the hands of our foreign
friends, from the day when Maitre Estienne Perlin be-
stowed upon us the opprobrious epithets of villains,
drunkards, reprobates, &c, even to that recent period
when an acute American author came forth with Haw-
thorn cudgel in hand to administer to the peccant John

1 " Ferdinand Mendez Pinto was but a type of thee, thou liar of the
first magnitude ! " — Congreve's Love for Love, 1695.

Introduction. xiii

Bull, the " female Bull " and family, some gentle re-
minders of their weaknesses and shortcomings.

We need scarcely inquire where was the Englishman
in those early times? Was he backward in setting
foot on foreign soil ? Should proof be required of the
ubiquity of our countrymen, the three stout tomes
painfully prepared and published in Queen Elizabeth's
reign by Master Richard Hakluyt, preacher, followed in
the next reign by five yet more ponderous volumes of an-
other preacher, Master Samuel Purchas, will sufficiently
and satisfactorily show how and where our bold Britons
had been for many a long year voyaging and travelling,
dispersed and settled in all the known quarters of the
globe, for the most part engaged in the glorious pursuit
of improving and extending the boundaries of trade and
commerce and founding new plantations and colonies.
The two preachers, by their remarkable publications,
held out to their countrymen the precious examples
of those adventurous and hardy ancient mariners and
travellers, and supplied the exciting stimulant for our
" home-keeping youth" to go forth likewise and " see
the wonders of the world abroad." There were also
erratic Englishmen of a somewhat different stamp —
men who had no other ambition than to examine with
their own eyes and -recount to their admiring country-
men whatever marvels and matters of curiosity their
indomitable energy and boldness in traversing distant

xiv Introduction.

regions might bring within their ken. These were not
the persons to hesitate and turn back. With such
characters may be classed a pair of roving worthies —
Fynes Moryson and Thomas Coryat, true sons of the
famous old knight-errant of St. Alban's, Sir John
Mandeville, —

" Before him was none that ever was known,
For travel of so high renown."

Moryson, possessing from his tender youth an " innated
desire" to see foreign countries, started on his travels
in 1 59 1, being about twenty-five years of age, and
having shortly before received his M.A. degree at Cam-
bridge. After visiting almost every part of Europe, he
set foot again on the shores of "blessed England" in
1595, but in sorry plight, having been robbed of his
best cloak and his crowns in France. On arriving in
London, he hastened to greet his sister ; and he relates
a little scene which thereupon took place. For he
says : —

" When I entered my sister's house in poore habit, a servant upon
my demaund answered that my sister was at home ; but when he did
see me goe up the staires too boldly (as he thought) without a guide,
hee not knowing mee in respect of my long absence, did furiously and
with threatening words call me backe, and surely would have been
rude with me, had I not gone up faster than he could follow me ; and
just as I entred my sister's chamber, he had taken hold on my old
cloake, which I willingly flung off to be rid of him. Then by my
sister's imbraces he perceived who I was, and stole backe as if he had
trodden upon a snake."

Introduction. xv

Moryson made subsequent long journeyings : and after
his death, in 1617 appeared a goodly folio of 900 pages
entitled, "An Itinerary, written by Fynes Moryson, gent.,
first in the Latine Tongue, and then translated by him
into English ; containing his ten yeeres travell through
the twelve dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Switzer-
land, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Italy, Turky,
France, England, Scotland, and Ireland." Moryson
was an intelligent and keen observer, and his Journal is
exceedingly valuable and interesting.

Tom Coryat, the " Odcombian leg-stretcher," as he
chose to call himself, was the son of a clergyman, and
undertook, in 1608, a continental tour. He went
through France, and as far as Venice, where he stayed
six weeks, delighted with the place and the people.
He returned by way of Germany. " The cities," he
says, " that I saw in the space of these five months, are
five and forty. Whereof in France five. In Savoy
one. In Italie thirteene. In Rhetia one. In Helvetia
three. In some parts of High Germanie fifteene. In the
Netherlands seven." The number of miles he passed
over he reckons to be 1975, accomplished for the most
part on foot, and he tells us that he went 900 miles on
one pair of soles, and on his return he hung up these
well-worn shoes in the Church at Odcombe, Somerset-
shire, his native place, as a memorial of pedestrian
labour — a trophy of his tedious travels. Ben Jonson,

xvi Introduction.

in some verses prefixed to Coryat's Crambe, 1611, thus
sings of the shoes : —

" How well, and how often his shoes too were mended,
That sacred to Odcombe are now there suspended, —
I meane that one paire, wherewith he so hobled
From Venice to Flushing, were not they well cobled ?
Yes."—

Coryat ought to have recorded the name of his won-
derful shoemaker! The tough old shoes remained in
Odcombe church until about 1702. Tom published
his Travels in 161 1, in a bulky quarto volume of 655
pages — " a bonnie, bouncing booke," (as Ben Jonson
calls it,) bearing the quaint title of " Coryat's Crudities,
hastily gobled up in five moneths Travells in France,
Savoy, Italy, Rhetia commonly called the Grisons
country, Helvetia alias Switzerland, some parts of High
Germany, and the Netherlands ; newly digested in the
hungry aire of Odcombe in the county of Somerset,
and now dispersed to the nourishment of the travelling
members of this kingdome." This amusing work is
prefaced by a host of mock-commendatory verses, many
of which were written by the best poets of the time.
The copy which belonged to Prince Henry, to whom
the book is dedicated, and in whose service Coryat was,
is now in the Grenville Library. It is bound in crim-
son velvet and has the initials H. P. on the covers, but
the interesting engravings have been spoilt by colouring.

Introductio?t. xvii

The author, on presenting the volume to the Prince,
termed it "this tender feathered Red-breast." 1

Coryat subsequently went on a painful and perilous
pilgrimage to the East, travelling as usual mostly on
foot, or, as Fuller quaintly says, " on an horse with ten
toes." He visited Constantinople, Persia, the Court
of the Great Mogul, and at length reached Surat, ex-
hausted from fatigue, sick, and dispirited. During his
illness, he cried out, in Falstaff 's vein, for " Sack, sack,
is there any such thing as sack ? I pray you give me
some sack." His friends incautiously indulged him
with a little of the tempting beverage, which served
only to aggravate his malady, and he died a few days
afterwards, in December, 1617.

Shakespeare has evidently embodied his own senti-
ments on the advantages of foreign travel in the Two
Gentlemen of Verona (act i. sc. 3), which is considered to
be one of his earliest dramatic productions : —

" Panthlno. He wondred that your Lordship
Would suffer him, to spend his youth at home,
While other men, of slender reputation
Put forth their Sonnes, to seeke preferment out.
Some to the warres, to try their fortune there ;
Some, to discouer Islands farre away :
Some, to the studious Uniuersities ;
For any, or for all these exercises,
He said, that Protheus, your sonne, was meet ;

1 Coryat's Crambe, 161 1.
C

XV111

Introduction.

And did request me, to importune you
To let him spend his time no more at home ;
Which would be great impeachment to his age,
In hauing knowne no trauaile in his youth.

Antonio. Nor need'st thou much importune me to that
Whereon, this month I haue bin hamering.
I haue consider'd well, his losse of time,
And how he cannot be a perfect man,
Not being tryed, and tutord in the world :
Experience is by industry atchieu'd,
And perfected by the swift course of time : — "

Elsewhere, in the same Play (act i. sc. i) : —

" Home-keeping-youth, haue euer homely wits,

* * * *

I rather would entreat thy company,
To see the wonders of the world abroad,
Then (liuing dully sluggardiz'd at home)
Weare out thy youth with shapelesse idlenesse."

And again, in the Taming of the Shrew (act i. sc. 2) : —

" Such wind as scatters yongmen throgh y e world,
To seeke their fortunes farther then at home,
Where small experience growes." — Edit.fol. 1623.

Lord Bacon composed an admirable Essay on the
subject, which, as it is at once short, and to the point,
we will reproduce from the latest enlarged edition of
his Essays published in his lifetime (1625, 4-to.) : —

Of Trauaile.
Trauaile, in the younger Sort, is a Part of Education ; In the Elder,
a Part of Experience. He that trauaileth into a Country, before he
hath some Entrance into the Language, goeth to Schools, and not to

Introduction. xix

Trauaile. That Young Men trauaile vnder some Tutor, or graue
Seruant, I allow well ; So that he be such a one, that hath the Lan-
guage, and hath been in the Country before ; whereby he may be able to
tell them, what Things are worthy to be seene in the Country where they
goe ; what Acquaintances they are to seeke ; what Exercises or disci-
pline the Place yeeldeth. For else young Men shall goe hooded, and looke
abroad little. It is a strange Thing, that in Sea voyages, where there
is nothing to be seene, but Sky and Sea, Men should make Diaries ;
But in Land-Trauile, wherin so much is to be obserued, for the most
part, they omit it ; As if Chance, were fitter to be registred, then
Obseruation. Let Diaries, therefore be brought in vse. The Things
to be seene and obserued are : The Courts of Princes, specially when
they giue Audience to Ambassadours : The Courts of Justice, while
they sit and heare Causes ; And so of Consistories Ecclesiasticke :
The Churches, and Monasteries, with the Monuments which are
therein extant : The Wals and Fortifications of Cities and Townes ;
And so the Hauens and Harbours : Antiquities, and Ruines : Libraries,
Colledges, Disputations, and Lectures, where any are : Shipping and
Nauies : Houses, and Gardens of State, and Pleasure, neare great
Cities ; Armories ; Arsenals ; Magazens ; Exchanges ; Burses ; Ware-
houses; Exercises of Horse-man-ship; Fencing; Trayning of Souldiers ;
and the like : Comedies ; Such wherunto the better Sort of persons doe
resort ; Treasuries of Jewels, and Robes ; Cabinets and Rarities :
And to conclude, whatsoeuer is memorable in the Places where they
goe. After all which, the Tutors or Seruants, ought to make diligent
Enquirie. As for Triumphs ; Masques ; Feasts ; Weddings ; Funer-
alls ; Capitall Executions ; and such Shewes ; Men need not to be
put in minde of them ; Yet are they not to be neglected. If you
will haue a Young Man, to put his Trauaile^ into a little Roome, and
in short time, to gather much, this you must doe. First, as was said,
he must haue some Entrance into the Language, before he goeth.
Then he must haue such a Seruant, or Tutor, as knoweth the
Country, as was likewise said. Let him carry with him also some
Card or Booke describing the Country, where he trauelleth ; which

xx Introduction.

will be a good Key to his Enquiry. Let him keepe also a Diary.
Let him not stay long in one Citty, or Towne ; More or lesse as the
place deserueth, but not long : Nay, when he stayeth in one City or
Towne, let him change his Lodging, from one End and Part of the
Towne, to another ; which is a great Adamant of Acquaintance.
Let him sequester himselfe from the Company of his Country men,
and diet in such Places, where there is good Company of the Nation,
where he trauaileth. Let him vpon his Remoues, from one place to
another, procure Recommendation, to some person of Quality, resid-
ing in the Place, whither he remoueth ; that he may vse his Fauour,
in those things, he desireth to see or know. Thus he may abridge his
Trauaile^ with much profit. As for the acquaintance, which is to be
sought in Trauaile ; That which is most of all profitable, is Acquaint-
ance with the Secretaries, and Employed Men of Ambassadours ; For
so in Trauailing in one Country he shall sucke the Experience of
many. Let him also see and visit, Eminent Persons, in all kindes,
which are of great Name abroad ; That he may be able to tell, how
the Life agreeth with the Fame. For Quarels, they are with Care
and Discretion to be auoided : They are, commonly, for Mistresses ;
Healths; Place; and Words. And let a Man beware, how he
keepeth Company, with Cholerick and Quarelsome Persons ; for they
will engage him into their owne Quarels. When a Trauailer returneth '
home, let him not leaue the Countries, where he hath Trauailed,
altogether behinde him ; But maintaine a Correspondence, by letters,
with those of his Acquaintance, which are of most worth. And let
his Trauaile appeare rather in his Discourse, then in his Apparrell, or
Gesture : And in his Discourse, let him be rather aduised in his
Answers, then forwards to tell Stories : And let it appeare, that he doth
not change his Country Manners, for those of Forraigne Parts ; But
onely, prick in some Flowers, of that he hath Learned abroad, into
the Customes of his owne Country.

Purchas, before mentioned, delivers some pungent
remarks against such of his countrymen as undertake

Introduction. xxi

the Continental tour. He says (Preface to his " Pil-
grimes," 1625) : —

" As for Gentlemen, Travell is accounted an excellent Ornament
to them ; and therefore many of them comming to their Lands sooner
than to their Wits, adventure themselves to see the fashions of other
countries, whence they bring home a few smattering termes, flattering
garbes, apish crings, foppish fancies, foolish guises and disguises, the
vanities of neighbour nations (I name not Naples) without furthering
of their knowledge of God, the World or themselves. I speake not
against Travell, so usefull to usefull men, I honour the industrious of
the liberall and ingenuous in arts, bloud, education ; and to prevent
exorbitancies of the other, which cannot travell farre, or are in
danger to travell from God and themselves, at no great charge I offer
a ' World of Travellers ' [his own volumes of the ' Pilgrimes '] tx/their
domestike entertainment, easie to be spared from their smoke, cup, or
butter-flie vanities and superfluities, and fit mutually to entertaine
them in a better Schoole to better purposes."

Robert Burton, the celebrated author of the " Ana-
tomy of Melancholy " (first published in 1 621), who,
as he tells us, never travelled but in map or card,
expresses himself as follows : —

" There is no better Physicke for a melancholy man than change of
ayre and variety of places, to travell abroad and see fashions. For Pere-
grination charmes our senses with such unspeakable and sweet variety,
that some count him unhappy that never travelled, a kinde of prisoner,
and pitty his case that from his cradle to his old age beholds the same
still; still, still, the same, the same." — (Edit. 1632, p. 261.)

Other English authors wrote and published special
works on the art of travelling, holding, as might be

xxii Introduction.

expected, conflicting opinions on the subject. Thus,
Robert Dallington, afterwards knighted, and Master of the
Charterhouse, has much sensible advice in his " Method
for Travell " (preliminary to his " View of France "),
1598, a few extracts from which may be amusing : —

" Base and vulgar spirits hover still about home ; those are more

noble and divine that imitate the heavens, and joy in motion He

therefore that intends to travell out of his owne country, must likewise
resolve to travell out of his country-fashion, and" indeed out of him-
selfe — that is, out of his former intemperate feeding, disordinate
drinking, thrift-lesse gaming, fruit-lesse time-spending, violent exercis-
ing and irregular misgoverning whatsoever. He must determine that
the end of his Travell is his ripening in knowledge, and the end of his
knowledge is the service of his countrie, which of right challengeth
the better part of us."

Touching on the Traveller's religion, he counsels him —

" Not to alter his first faith. Wherefore if my Traveller will keepe
this birde safe in his bosome, he must neither be inquisitive after other
mens religions, nor prompt to discover his owne. For I hold him unwise
that in a strange country will either shew his mind or his money. . . .
For the attaining of language it is convenient that he make choice of
the best places — Orleans for the French, Florence for the Italian and
Lipsick for the Dutch [i.e. German] tongues, for in these places is
the best language spoken."

Next he must make choice of a good Reader —

" His Reader should not read any Poetry at first, but some other kind
of style, and I think meetest some modern Comedy. Privately he may
for his pleasure read poetry. He must be talking and exercising his
speech with all sorts of people."

One great hindrance to obtaining a language is the

Introduction. xxiii

" often haunting and frequenting our own countrimen."
" I would rather he should come home It alternate than
Frenchefied." Many Travellers bring home the "Italian
huffe of the shoulder, or the Dutch puffe with the pot,
or the French apishnes."

The body is to be preserved in good state by diet and
exercise. He advises the Traveller to —

" Beware of foreign wines, which agree not with some natures,
except sparingly taken or well qualified with water. Tennis-play in
France is dangerous for the body and for the purse. The French
fashion of dancing is in most request with us."

The young and courtiers may follow this, but other-
wise he holds it needless and in some ridiculous ; e.g.—

" I remember a countriman of ours, well seene in arts and language,
well stricken in years, a mourner for his second wife, a father of mar-
riageable children, who with other his booke studies abroade joyned also
the exercise of dancing. It was his hap in an. honourable Bal (as they
call it) to take a fall, which in mine opinion was not so disgracefull
as the dancing itselfe, to a man of his stuffe.

" Money is the soule of Travel, If he travel without a servant,
fourscore pounds sterling is a competent proportion, except he learn
to ride ; if he maintain both these charges, he can be allowed no less
than 150/. ; and to allow above 200/. were superfluous and to his hurt.
The ordinary rate of his expense is 10 gold crowns a month his own
diet ; 8 for his man (at the most) ; 2 crowns a month his fencing, as
much dancing, no less his reading, and 15 crowns monthly his riding,
except in the heat of the year. The remainder of his 150/. I allow
him for apparell, books, travelling charges, tennis-play and other
extraordinary expenses.

"Let him have 4 Bills of Exchange with him for the whole year,
with letters of advice, to be paid him quarterly. If he carry over

xxiv Introduction.

money with him (as by our law be cannot carry much) let it be in
double pistolets, or French crowns.

" Concerning his books, let them be few or none he carrieth from
place to place ; or if any, that they be not such as are prohibited by
the Inquisition ; least when his male is searched (as it is at every
Cities gate in Italie) they bring him to trouble ; they will make him
pay toll at every such town. I would only have him carry the papers
of his own observation, especially a Giornale, wherein from day to day
he shall set down the divers provinces he passeth, with their com-
modities, the towns with their manner of buildings, the names and
benefit of the rivers, the distance of places, the condition of the soile,
manners of the people, and what else his eye meeteth by the way
remarkable. I must advise for his apparel as for his books, that upon
his jorney he be not overcharged with over much luggage ; even a
light burthen is farre heavie ; beside, somewhat is likewise to be paid
for these at the entry of everie Citie gate. Let him also take heede
that the apparell he wears be in fashion in the place where he resideth,
for it is no less ridiculous to wear clothes of our fashion among them,
than at our return to use still their fashion among us — a notorious
affectation of many Travellers. I conclude, therefore, that when he
comes out of those foreign countries, he likewise come out of their
humors and habits, and come home to bimselfe, fashioned to such carriage
in his apparrell, gesture and conversation, as in his own country is most
plausible and best approved."

Thomas Palmer published an " Essay of the Meanes
how to make our Travailes into Forraine Countries the
more profitable and honourable," 4to. London, 1606.
In the dedication of his book to Prince Henry, he says,
" This subject hath not worne an English habite here-
tofore."

Joseph Hall, " Doctor of Divinitie," afterwards
Bishop of Norwich, took the opposite view of the

xxvi Introduction.

James Howell, the celebrated letter-writer, and himself
an experienced traveller, sent forth to the public in 1642,
his " Instructions for Forreine Travell." He remarks : —

" Amongst other nations of the world, the English are observed to
have gained much and improved themselves infinitely by voyaging both
by land and sea ; and of those four worthies who compassed about the
terrestriall globe, I find the major part of them were English."

The Paris of his day he calls, " that hudge, though
durty theater of all nations."

" One thing I would disswade him from, which is from the ex-
cessive commendation and magnifying of his own Countrey ; for it is
too much observed that the English suffer themselves to be too
much transported with this subject, to undervalue and vilifie other
countreys, for which I have heard them often censured. The most
materiall use of forraine travel is to find out something that may be
applyable to the publique utility of one's own countrey ; as a noble
Personage^ of late yeares did, who, observing the uniforme and regular
way of stone structure up and down Italie, hath introduced that forme
of building to London & Westminster and elsewhere, which, though
distastfull at first, as all innovations are, yet they find now the com-
modity, firmeness and beauty thereof, the three maine principles of
Architecture."

1 This evidently points to that eminent patron of art Thomas
Howard, Earl of Arundel. Walker (" Life of Lord Arundel," written
1651, printed in "Historical Discourses," fol. 1705, p. 222) says of
him that he " was the first person of quality that brought in uniformity
in building, and was chief commissioner to see it performed in London,
which since that time has added exceedingly to the beauty of that
city." (See also Lilly's "Life of Charles I," 4to. 1651, p. 104.)
Many of these works and improvements were effected by Inigo Jones.

Introduction. xxvii

Francis Osborne, Esq., of Oxford, imparted some
Advice to his son 'on travel' in 1656. He says: —

" I am not much unwilling to give way to peregrine motion for a
time, provided it be in company of an embassadour or person of
quality. . . . Shun all disputes, but especially concerning religion.
Eschew the company of all English you find in Orders. The English
are observed abroad more quarrelsom with their own nation than
strangers, and therefore marked out as the most dangerous com-
panions. Inns are dangerous, and so are all fresh acquaintance. Next
to experience, languages are the richest lading of a traveller, among
which French is most useful, Italian and Spanish not being so fruitful
in learning, except for the mathematicks and romances."

This topic has also been discussed by many foreign
writers. Beckmann has enumerated as many as nineteen
different works on the subject of the art of travelling,
which were published in Germany in the last half of
the sixteenth and beginning of the seventeenth centuries.
These works are all in Latin, and their great use,
not merely by German but by other travellers, is
proved by their repeated editions. One of these tra-
vellers was Hieronymus Turler, a Doctor of Laws, and
a native of Saxony, who appears among our travellers to
England, and who published in 1 574 a small work con-
taining some judicious remarks worthy the attention of
his young countrymen. It was translated (1575) under
the title of " The Traveller of Jerome Turler, . . . con-
taining a notable Discourse of the maner and order of
Travelling Oversea, or into Straunge and Forrein Coun-

xxviii Introduction.

treys ... A woorke very pleasaunt for all persons to

reade, and right profitable and necessarie unto all such

as are minded to Traueyll." In his prefatory notice

he says : —

" I have written this booke in the behalf of such as are desierous to
traveill, and to see forreine countries, and specially of students. For
since experience is the greatest parte of humane wisedome, and the
same is increased by traveil, I suppose there is no man will deny but
that a man may become the wiser by travelling. ... It is a great parte
of wisdome to know the nature and maners of men, and how to live
with everybody" (p. 37). "This saying is usually objected against
them : They which run oversea, chaunge the aire and not their minde," 1
(p. 91.)

Dr. Turler then touches upon a tender question : —

" But perhaps some man wil demaund whether such as be maried
bee meete to traveill ? For over that, that weemen are forbidden, as it
were of honestie and womanhoode not to take long or often journies
in hand, it is the leave of matrimonie that those whiche bee coupled
therin shall dwell evermore together, and the one to bee a comforte
unto the other. Howbeeit this matter, as apperteyning to y e weemen,
dependeth upon the custome of the countrey. . . . Moreover, ther
may be mutuall frindship and affection shewed even in travelling, and
one minde and one soule remaine in two bodies, although the two
bodies be distant far asunder."

Professor Beckmann offers some remarks on this sub-
ject. In the sixteenth century, he informs us, it was
usual in Germany for young men of rich and distin-
guished families to be sent on travel, in order to acquire

1 " Coelum non animum mutant, qui trans mare currunt." — Hor.

Introduction. xxix

more useful knowledge than they could at that time
obtain in their own country. In consequence many
books were written by such as had themselves travelled,
frequently as companions or tutors, which might serve
as guides to others who also contemplated travelling.
Others gave general instructions on the art of travelling ;
and books of this last description are much more plenti-
ful in the sixteenth and following century than in our
own. The travels of princes were in that age much
more necessary than in the present. At that time, in
most countries, at least in most German States, there
were no institutions for the instruction of youth, parti-
cularly of the higher classes. In most universities, only
theologians, scholastics, jurists, and some physicians were
to be met with. If a person desired to have efficient
teachers in the other sciences, he was obliged to engage
them from a distance, at great expense, and frequently,
indeed, none were to be procured for money. Whoever,
therefore, wished to acquire learning according to the
enlarged necessities of the fatherland, was compelled to
seek the larger and more perfect educational establish-
ments in Italy and France. Princes had not even the
opportunity of acquiring at home foreign languages,
dancing, fencing, and riding. Should they wish to
become acquainted with the constitution of other States,
they must themselves travel thither. Statistical teachers
and manuals were not yet to be had.

xxx Introduction.

The travels of princes, moreover, were necessary in
this respect, to incite others by their example, and by
this means to convey knowledge to the fatherland, which
it was their purpose to diffuse and make useful there.
This, therefore, explains why at that time princes were
more intent in their travels upon useful objects than in
our days, when having received a certain amount of in-
struction at home, they fancy that they have long known
what is necessary, and travel more with the view of
showing and enjoying themselves than of acquiring useful
knowledge. 1

Coryat translated from the Latin, and inserted in his
"Crudities," 1611, two Orations of Hermann Kirchner,
a learned Professor at the University of Marburg ; the
one in praise of travel in general, the other in praise of
the travel of Germany in particular. From the latter
we quote the following remarks, having reference to
the roaming habits of the Germans at that period.
Kirchner says: —

" Which custome of travelling, if we have read to have beene at
any time frequented and used of any nation whatsoever, certes we may
most plainly perceive, as it were at noone-tide, that it is at this day
most famously exercised by the men of our Germany, even by the
common and almost daily endevour of our Princes and noble per-
sonages that travell into farre countries, so that there is scarce found a
man of any note and fame in the courtly life, in the politique conver-

1 Beckmann's " Litteratur der alteren Reisebeschreibungen," 1. 208,
&c, 11. 10, &c.

Introduction. xxxi

sation and civill society, which hath not both learned the manners and
languages of forraine nations, and also seene abroade in the world the
state and divers governements of kingdomes, that hath not with eyes
and feete made use of England, Italy, France, and Spaine, and observed
whatsoever is memorable in remote nations, and worthy to be seene in
every place of note."

The German, when setting out on his travels, would
on no account neglect to carry with him his Album, or
" Stammbuch," as he would himself call it ; and, indeed,
he would consider it an indispensable article to be in-
cluded among his bag and baggage, or " impedimenta," as
such things are expressively termed in Latin. Producing
his little book, whenever in the course of his peregrinations
he came into contact with friends or persons of more or
less note, he would solicit them to favour him by inscrib-
ing on its leaves either an autograph or a motto, or by
inserting an emblazoned shield of arms, or a sketch.
Humphrey Wanley, the Earl of Oxford's librarian, in
describing these alba amicorum, adds that the young
German traveller, at his return, "by these hands {i.e.
autographs) demonstrates what good company he has
kept." A very rich assemblage — to be counted by
hundreds — of these earliest collections of autographs is
in the Manuscript Department of the British Museum.
They are the albums which were once happily possessed
by natives of Germany, where the fashion originated,
and were much used in the sixteenth and seventeenth
centuries, but more especially during the first quarter of

xxxii Introduction.

the latter. Many of these interesting volumes — which
are usually of an oblong shape and have costly bindings
— enshrine autographs of very distinguished persons.
The quondam owner of one, Christopher Arnold, Pro-
fessor of History at Nuremberg, visited England in the
middle of the seventeenth century, and being in London
on the 19th of November, 1651, obtained the autograph
of the author of " Paradise Lost," ' Joannes Miltonius.'
An album which belonged to a traveller, Fred, de Bot-
nia, contains beautifully coloured drawings of James I.
and his Queen, the Lord Mayor of London and his
brethren on horseback, and also the Lady Mayoress
for the time being. For the same purpose were used
printed books of emblems, some having delicate en-
gravings, and interleaved with blank paper for the
insertion of autographs, &c, others merely an orna-
mental border, the space within which was to be used
by the contributors. One very beautiful example of
the former description that we have seen is a copy of
" Emblemata," with exquisite engravings on copper by
Theodore de Bry, and published at Frankfort-on-the-
Main in 1593. This was the " stammbuch " of Daniel
Rindfleisch {Anglic} 'Beef'), M.D. of Breslau, who died
a Dominican monk in 1 63 1 .

These autograph albums, it appears, were used also
by the travelling English. Fynes Moryson, writing
from Emden, 1592, relates a "merry accident" which
befel him at Bremen :—

Introduction. xxxiii

" Disguised as I was [to avoid falling into the hands of freebooters],
I went to the house of Doctor Peuzelius [Christoph Pezel], desiring
to have the name of so famous a divine written in my stemme-booie,
with his mott [motto], after the Dutch [i.e. German] fashion. Hee
seeing my poore habite, and a booke under my arme, tooke me for
some begging scholler, and spake sharpely unto me. But when in my
master's [i. e. his own, for he was disguised as his own servant, or as
he says, 'I was servant to myselfe'] name I had respectively [sic]
saluted him and told him my request, he excused his mistaking, and
with all curtesie performed my desire." — Itinerary, 1617, pt. i. p. 38.

The knights of Windsor, in 1466, produced their
missal when, after dinner, they requested the autograph
of the Bohemian Baron Leo von Rozmital, ' in memo-
riam ' of his visit to them. But the uncouth name
when written was a puzzle ; for after the travellers had
left Windsor, the knights ran after them, and once more
made inquiries respecting Leo's name and titles. Horky
supposes the form to have been written as follows :
" Lwyk z Rozmitala a z Blatnie ;" which certainly must
have been a nut for them to crack.

There were also hand-books of travel-talk published
at an early period, to render the tourist's path to the
tongues smooth and easy. These little polyglot manuals
appear to have been set on foot by the Flemings, 1 and
the demand for them was evidently great, as there are in

1 William Caxton, our first English printer, published about 1483,
Dialogues in French and English, which is usually called " A Book for
Travellers." It is of the utmost rarity, no copy having as yet found
its way into the Library of the British Museum.

xxxiv Introduction.

the British Museum Dutch editions dated 1589 (preface
1585), 1593, 1600, 1630, 1631; and Venice, 1656.
The earliest of these we have met with was printed at
Liege (Leodii), and is entitled, " Colloquia et Dic-
tionariolum septem linguarum, Belgicse, Anglican," &c.
or Dialogues in Flemish, English, German, Latin,
Italian, Spanish, and French. The languages are in
parallel columns, the English being in italic letters ; the
printer having no small ' w,' has used throughout the
capital instead, which, when coming in the middle of a
word, presents a very uncouth and puzzling appearance.
The Foreign-English employed in these Dialogues is
occasionally quaint and amusing, and the following may
serve as specimens. The book opens thus : —

" Beloued Reader, this booke is so need full and profitable, and the
usance of thesame so necessarie, that his goodnes euen of learned men,
is not fullie to be praised, for ther is noman in France, nor in this
Netherland, nor in Spayne, or in Italie, handling [traffiquant, Fr.] in
these Netherlandes, Which hat not neede of these seuen speaches that
here in are Writen and declared : fer Whether that anyman doo mar-
chandise, or that hee do handle in the Court [ou qu'il hante la Court],
or that hee folio We the Warres, or that hee be a travailling man,
hee should neede to haue an Interpretour for som of theese seuen
speaches," &c.

In the chapter, For to aske the Way, the travellers
riding along meet a shepherdess, whereupon B. says,
"Aske of that shee sheapherd." A. complies: "My
shee freend, where is the right Way from hence to

Introduction. xxxv

AnWerp." The She replies : " Right before you,
turnyng nether on te right nor on to left hand till you
come to an high elme tree, then turne on the left hand."
The traveller addresses Jone, the chambermaid at the
inn, thus : " My shee frinde, is my bed made ? is it
good?" — "Yea Sir, it is a good federbed, the scheetes
be very cleane." Traveller: "Pull of my hosen and
Warme my bed : draWe the curtines, and pin then With
a pin. — My shee frinde, kisse me once, and I shall
sleape the better. — I thanke you fayre mayden." On
the following morning " at the oprising," he calls
to the boy, " Drie my shirt that I may rise ; " then,
" Where is the horse keeper ? go tell him that hee my
horse leade to the river," &c. And at departure he
inquires, " Where is ye maiden ? hold my shee freend,
ther is for your paines. Knave, bring hither my horse,
have you dressed him Well?" — "Yea Sir," the knave
replies, " he did Wante nothing."

It is to be feared that the above linguistic guides
would avail but little those travellers who were anxious
to express themselves with tolerable fluency in our
vernacular. The Duke of Saxe -Weimar and his com-
panions conversed in Latin with the Oxford students :
it would therefore seem that they had a greater com-
mand of this language, and would employ it when
addressing persons of education, rather than French,
which at this time had not yet grown to be the uni-

xxxvi Introduction.

versal tongue. Meteren, the Dutch merchant and
historian, in 1575 travelled through England and Ire-
land in company with his cousin Abraham Ortelius, the
celebrated geographer ; but as Meteren had been resident
in England some years previously, it is likely that he had
acquired enough of our language to serve him in his

tours.

It is, however, very questionable whether Latin as
pronounced by the educated Englishman would be intel-
ligible to the foreigner. Tom Coryat found his Latin
so little understood when travelling on the Continent,
that he soon found it necessary to abandon his old
English pronunciation of vita, fides, and amicus, and
adopt the Italian veeta, feedes, and ameecus. Neither is
this, he says, "proper to Italy only, but to all other
nations whatsoever in Christendome, saving to England"
Milton was of opinion that the Italian pronunciation
was necessary if one would talk with foreigners, and
declared that " to smatter Latin with an English mouth
is as ill a hearing as law French." When Cosmo III,
Grand Duke of Tuscany, visited Cambridge in 1669, 1
he could not, on account of the peculiar pronunciation,

1 The Journal of Cosmo's Travels through England was written in
Italian by Count Magalotti, and an English translation published in
1821, in 4to. This work is frequently referred to by Lord Macaulay
in his celebrated chapter on the "State of England in 1685."

Introduction. xxxvii

understand the Latin oration recited in his praise, nor the
Latin comedy acted by the scholars. At Oxford the
Latin speeches were equally unintelligible to him, nor
could he understand the English, which had to be inter-
preted to him. In Zinzerling's Notes there is mention
made of resident interpreters for the benefit of the tra-
velling Germans : a youth is named, and his address
pointed out. In Finett's " Philoxenis," p. 202, one of
these persons who undertook to cater for German princes,
ambassadors and their suites, and to conduct them to
London and about England, was summarily punished for
attempting in 1627 to extor t more money than was
justly his due from the Danish ambassador, who made
the complaint.

Having gone over some of the ground of the litera-
ture of early travel, as provided both by our ancestors
and by the Germans for stimulating and encouraging
the vagrant propensity so characteristic of the two
peoples, it may now be desirable to go back in search of
the earliest record of a visit to England by a foreigner 1 —

1 There are two or three remarks on the English, by the old French
chronicler Froissart, which are amusing. He passed, it will be re-
membered, many years of his life in our country during the reigns of
Edward III. and Richard II. The Englishmen, he says (cap. ccxlii.
Lord Berners' translation), "are the peryloust people of the worlde,
and most outragyoust if they be up, and specially the Londoners."
In chap. ix. we are told that " these inglisshemen most commonly have

xxxviii Introduction.

not one of slight allusion merely, of which there must
be many, but of lengthy and detailed description, and
one fairly and worthily entering into the category of
books of travel. Such a one we meet with in the
account of the Pilgrimage undertaken " for the sake of
piety and religion," by the Bohemian baron, Leo von
Rozmital, brother-in-law of the then reigning King of
Bohemia, in various countries of Europe, (our own
included,) in the year 1466, and during the reign of
Edward IV. Notwithstanding the professed object of
travel as above indicated — which seemed to consist in
the intense enjoyment of the truly wonderful relics
which everywhere met the eyes of the travellers — the
Baron was nothing loath to fall in with the habits of the
people who entertained him ; and we find him, accord-
ingly, taking part in feastings, in tourneys, in dancings,
and merry-makings. The whole journey, indeed,
abounds in quaint and whimsical incidents, highly cha-
racteristic of the age. The " brief and pleasant Com-
mentary " which describes these particulars, was written
by the baron's secretary, Schassek, who accompanied

ever great envy at straungers ;" and in chap, xxxix. "the Englysshe-
men were so prowde, that they set nothyng by ony nacyon but by their
owne." And to the old chronicler is usually ascribed the observa-
tion, that, even in the midst of their amusements and greatest hilarity
(such as we may suppose a "going to the Derby"), the English are
very sad, " moult tristes," — Sad fellows, very !

Introduction. xxxix

him, in his vernacular Bohemian ; and his narrative was
translated into Latin and published a century afterwards
(1577) at Olmutz. This now very scarce work was
reprinted by the Literary Society of Stuttgart in 1 844,
joined with another narrative of the journey, penned in
German by Gabriel Tetzel, a citizen of Nuremberg,
one of the baron's suite. In 1824, a learned Moravian,
J. E. Horky, made it the subject of an historical and
critical work, published in German in two volumes at
Briinn, and the late Mr. Richard Ford, the accomplished
author of the " Handbook for Spain," contributed from
its pages a pleasant article to the " Quarterly Review "
for March 1852.

At Sandwich, where they landed half dead from sea-
sickness, the Bohemian tells us of a curious custom.
" Every night persons with fiddles and horns peram-
bulate the streets, announcing to merchants about to set
sail, which way the wind blew."

The Baron was received by Edward the Fourth with
great distinction. He spent several days in London,
visiting the royal treasures, the monuments of the
city, and relics of saints, to describe which accurately
would, according to Schassek, fully occupy a couple of
scribes for a fortnight. The Bohemian travellers' hair
seems to have astonished our ancestors. —

" Our long hair (says Schassek) was a great astonishment to them,
for they declared they had never seen any who excelled us in the length

xl Introduction.

and beauty of the hair ; and they could by no means be made to
believe that it was a natural growth, but they said it must have been
stuck on with pitch. And whenever any of us thus long-haired
appeared in public, he had more people to stare at him than if some
strange animal had been exhibited."

Leo (the ' Lion' in London) was invited to the Ceremony
of the Churching of Queen Elizabeth Woodville, in West-
minster Abbey, and afterwards attended the banquet in
Westminster Hall, and the ball which ensued. —

" The women and maids who served the Queen at table, knelt as
long as she ate. And she ate nigh three hours ( c und sie ass bey dreien
stunden'). Every one was silent ; not a word spoken. My Lord with
his companions stood in a recess and looked on."

Mention is made by the foreigners of the " surpass-
ingly beautiful damsels " present at the ball {ubersch'wenk-
lichen schonen junkfrawen). Among them were eight
Duchesses, and about thirty Countesses ; all the rest were
daughters of mighty men.

Notwithstanding the friendly reception of the Bohe-
mians, Schassek declares the character of the English
nation to be " so cunning and faithless, that a foreigner
would not be sure of his life amongst them ; and that
a Briton was not to be trusted even on his bended knees." 1
Too bad this, Mr. Secretary Schassek !

1 Quod sint homines (ut mihi videtur) infidi et astuti, vitse
hominum peregrinorum exitium molientes, qui licet submisse genu
inflectant, non tamen illis fidem habeas. — " Commentarius brevh et
jucundus Itineris," etc. Fo. 49 verso.

In troduction . x 1 i

The notices of England which follow, during nearly
a century, appear to be principally the relations of
Ambassadors. The Lord of Gruthuyse (Louis de
Bruges), a nobleman of Burgundy and a magnificent
patron of learned men, came over to England in Sep-
tember, 1472, on a special mission from Charles Duke of
Burgundy to Edward the Fourth, who gave Gruthuyse a
splendid reception, and created him Earl of Winchester.
The narrative of his visit 1 affords some interesting
particulars of the manners of the period. A few ex-
tracts may be acceptable,

After being regaled at Canterbury, Rochester, and
Gravesend with wine, capons, "fezantes, pertryches,"
and other good things, he landed at Lyon Key, where he
was received by the two Sheriffs of London. Two days
afterwards he rode to the King at Windsor, where he
was magnificently boarded and lodged. Three chambers
were placed at his disposal. After supper the
King—

" Had hym to the Queries [Elizabeth Woodville] chamber, where
she had there her ladyes playing at the morteaulx [probably a game
resembling bowls], and some of her ladyes and gentlewomen at the
closheys [game of closh, or nine-pins] of yuery, and Daunsinge. And
some at diuers other games. The whiche sight was full plesaunte to
them. And the Kinge daunsed with my lady Elizabethe, his eldest

1 See the " Cominge into Englande of the Lorde Grautehuse," printed
in the Archeeologia, vol. 26. From a contemporary MS.

■ f

xlii Introduction.

daughter" [born 1465]. In the morning after hearing mass, " the Kinge
gave the sayde LordeGrautehuse a Cuppe of Golde, garnished with perle.
In the myddes of the cuppe ys a greate pece of an Unicornes home, to my
estimacyon, vij ynches compas, and on the cover was a great saffre."
After breakfast " the Kinge had hym and all his Compeny into the
lyttle Parke, where he made hym to haue greate Sporte. And there
the Kinge made hym ryde on his owen horse, on a right feyre hoby,
the whiche the Kinge gaue hym. Item, there in the Parke, the Kinge
gaue hym a Royall Crosbowe, the strynge of silke, the case covered
with velvette of the Kinges collours, and his armes and bagges [badges]
thereapon. Also the heddes of quarrelles were gilte. The Kinges
dynner was ordeined in the lodge 5 before dynner they kylled no game,
savinge a doe ; the whiche the Kinge gaue to the Seruauntes of the
foresayde Lorde Grauthuse. And when the Kinge had dyned, they
wente an huntinge again. And by the Castell were founden certein
dere lyinge ; som with greyhoundes, and som renne to deathe with
bucke houndes. There were slaine halfe a doussein buckes, the whiche
the Kinge gaue to the sayde Lorde Grauthuse. By that tyme yt was
nere night, yett the Kinge shewed hym his Garden, and Vineyard of
Pleasour, and so turned into the Castell agayne, where theyherde euen-
songe in theire chambres."

The Queen then gave a great banquet in her own
chamber; several noble ladies of the Court were invited.

" Item, there was a syde table, at the whiche satte a greate Vue
[view, or number] of ladyes, all on the oon syde. Also in the utter
chamber satte the Queen's gentlewomen all on oone syde.

After supper there was dancing, " then, aboute ix of the clocke, the
Kinge and the Quene, with her ladies and gentlewomen brought the
sayde Lorde Grautehuse to iij Chaumbres of Pleasance, all hanged with
whyte sylke and lynnen clothe, and all the floures couered with carpettes.
There was ordeined a Bedde for hym selue, of as good doune as cciulde be
gotten, the Shetes of Raynys [Rennes], also fyne fustyans ; the Counter-

Introduction. xliii

poynte clothe of golde, furred with armyn, the tester and the celer also
shyninge clothe of golde, the Curteyns of whyte sarsenette ; as for his
hedde sute and pillowes, [they] were of the Quenes owen ordonnance.
Item, [in] the ijde Chambre was a other of astate, the whiche was alle
whyte. And in the same chambre was made a Couche with fether
beddes, hanged with a tente, knytt lyke a nette, and there was a cupp-
borde. Item in the iij Chambre was ordeined a Bayne [Bath] or ij,
which were couered with tentes of white clothe. And when the
Kinge and the Quene, with all her ladyes and gentlewemen, had
shewed hym these chambres, they turned againe to theire owen cham-
bres, and lefte the sayde Lorde Grauthuse there, accompanied with my
Lorde Chamberlein, whiche dispoyled hym, and wente bothe together
to the Bayne . . . And when they had ben in theire Baynes as longe as
was there pleasour, they had grene gynger, diuers cyryppes, comfyttes,
and ipocras, and then they wente to bedde."

The embassy of Andrea Trevisano to King Henry
VII, in 1497, * s considered to be the earliest Venetian
ordinary embassy to the English Court. His Report or
Relation of England — or rather the materials for it — has
been translated and edited by Miss Sneyd for the Cam-
den Society (1847), and accompanied by a valuable intro-
ductory notice by the late Mr. Holmes, of the British
Museum. At the time of publication of this interesting
work by Miss Sneyd, neither the author nor the precise
date of the Relation was known ; these facts were ascer-
tained by Mr. Rawdon Brown, and mentioned in his
work, " Giustinian's Four Years at the Court of Henry
VIII," 1854. The English people are described as
follows : —

xliv Introduction.

" The English are, for the most part, both men and women of all
ages, handsome and well-proportioned ; though not quite so much so,
in my opinion, as it had been asserted to me. I have understood from
persons acquainted with these countries that the Scotch are much
handsomer, and that the English are great lovers of themselves and
of everything belonging to them ; they think that there are no other
men than themselves, and no other world but England ; and whenever
they see a handsome foreigner, they say that ' he looks like an English-
man,' and that ' it is a great pity that he should not be an Englishman ;'
and when they partake of any delicacy with a foreigner, they ask him
' whether such a thing is made in their country ?' They take great
pleasure in having a quantity of excellent victuals, and also in remaining
a long time at table, being very sparing of wine when they drink it at
their own expense. And this it is said they do in order to induce their
other English guests to drink wine in moderation also ; not considering
it any inconvenience for three or four persons to drink out of the same
cup. Few people keep wine in their own houses, but buy it for the
most part at a tavern ; and when they mean to drink a great deal, they
go to the tavern, and this is done not only by the men, but by ladies
of distinction. The deficiency of wine, however, is amply supplied by
the abundance of ale and beer (ala and birra), to the use of which
these people are become so habituated, that at an entertainment where
there is plenty of wine, they will drink them in preference to it, and
in great quantities. Like discreet people, however, they do not offer
them to Italians, unless they should ask for them ; and they think
that no greater honour can be conferred or received, than to invite
others to eat with them, or to be invited themselves, and they would
sooner give five or six ducats to provide an entertainment for a person, than
a groat to assist him in any distress." (Pp. 20-22).

Mr. Rawdon Brown, in his valuable work before
referred to, has introduced a highly interesting narrative
of the diplomatic mission of Piero Pasqualigo and

In troduction . x 1 v

Sebastiano Giustiniani to the Court of Henry VIII,
in 1 5 1 5, from a very rare printed work in the British
Museum, written by the former Ambassador.

The Venetians were conducted in the royal barge or
bucintor to Richmond Palace, where they were intro-
duced to Henry VIII, (at that time twenty-four years
old), after which they were invited to dine with his
Majesty and hear mass. The voices of the royal
choristers were in truth rather divine than human ; they
did not chaunt, but sang like angels. On the first of
May the Ambassadors went to Greenwich, for the
purpose of celebrating " May-Day" and " gathering May-
dew " on Shooter's Hill, in the company of the King,
Queen Catherine of Aragon, and the Courtiers, all
mounted on horseback.

Pasqualigo writes : " His Majesty is the handsomest
potentate I ever set eyes on." Tables were spread
within bowers, where they ate —

" What they call here a proper good breakfast, (un Brecafas a la
polita. ) His Majesty rode a bay Frieslander ; he was dressed entirely
in green velvet, Directly we came in sight, he commenced making
his horse curvet, and performed such feats that I fancied myself looking
at Mars. He came into our arbour, and addressing me in French,
said, ' Talk with me awhile ! The King of France [Francis I.J is he
as tall as I am ? ' I told him there was but little difference. He con-
tinued, ' Is he as stout ? ' I said he was not ; and then he inquired,
'What sort of legs has he?' I replied, 'Spare.' Whereupon he
opened the front of his doublet, and placing his hand on his thigh, said,
' Look here ! and I have also a good calf to my leg.' "

xlvi Introduction.

In 1543-4, a Spanish nobleman, Don M'anriquezde
Lara, Duke de Najera, a Knight of the Golden Fleece,
visited England to pay his court to Henry VIII. He
arrived in London, February nth, and had an audience
with his Majesty on the following Sunday. Afterwards
he' was conducted into the apartments of the Queen
(Catherine Parr), when dancing was introduced, which
lasted several hours ; and a Venetian gentleman capered
so wonderfully, that he " appeared to have wings in his
feet." Princess Mary is described as possessing a " pleas-
ing countenance and person. She is so much beloved
throughout the kingdom, that she is almost adored."
He went to see the lions at the Tower, bear-baiting
at Paris Garden, which is " no bad sport to see them
fight ; " a pony with an ape fastened to its back,
and " to see the animal kicking amongst the dogs, with
the screams of the ape, beholding the curs hanging from
the ears and neck of the pony, is very laughable." He
speaks in raptures of fair Thames, its fine bridge with
the houses on it, and the multitude of swans in the
river. The Duke stayed in London eight days. One
of the Biscayan ships he had hired struck on a rock off
the Isle of Dogs {La IJla Duque) and went to pieces.
Thirty-three men perished. The narrative of his visit
is contained in a Spanish MS, written by the Duke's
Secretary, Pedro de Gante, and an extract from it was
translated by Sir Frederic Madden, and communicated
to the Archceologia, vol. 23.

Introduction. xlvii

A work entitled " Anglicae Descriptionis Compen-
dium," by a French historian, Guillau me PARADiN,was
published in small 8vo, at Paris, in 1545 ; but the- author
"does not seem to have been in England. At page 7
he says, " The climate is so healthy that men often
live to 120 years, and that labourers never sweat." At
page 8, " Shepherds never allow their sheep to drink any-
thing but dew." Chap. 30 treats of the tailed Englishmen,
" Anglos quosdam caudatos esse," particularly in the
neighbourhood of Strood, Kent ; for the proper under-
standing of which the reader is referred to the strange
story in Lambarde's "Perambulation," 1576.

In 1 545-6, Nicander Nucius,anativeofCorcyra,paid
a visit to England. The Camden Society published his
curious Narrative in Greek, with an English translation
by the Rev. J. A. Cramer, in 1841. Nicander, having to
remain in London awaiting King Henry VJII's final
despatch of the affairs laid before him, set to work to
investigate the peculiarities of our island, said to be the
greatest in the world except Taprobane and Thule.
The author says : —

" As regards their manners and mode of living, ornaments and vest-
ments, they resemble the French more than others, and for the most
part they use their language. And in feasts and drinkings, and in
pledgings of health and carousals, they differ in nothing from the
French. Their nobles and rulers, and those in authority, are replete
with benevolence and good order, and are courteous to strangers. But
the rabble and the mob are, as it were, turbulent and barbarous in

xlviii Introduction.

their manner, as I have observed from experience and intercourse.
And towards the Germans, Flemish, Italians, and Spanish they are
friendly disposed. But towards the French they entertain not one
kindly sentiment of goodwill. . . . Wherefore the French rarely dwell
in London.

" The race of men indeed is fair, inclining to a light colour ; in
their persons they are tall and erect ; the hair of their beard and head
is of a golden hue ; their eyes blue, for the most part, and their cheeks
are ruddy ; they are martial and valorous, and generally tall ; flesh-
eaters, and insatiable of animal food ; sottish and unrestrained in their
appetites; full of suspicion. But towards their King they are won-
derfully well afFected, nor would anyone of them endure any thing dis-
respectful of the King, through the honour they bear him ; so that the
most binding oath taken by them is that by which ' the King's life '
has been pledged.

" The horses are naturally swift-footed and very fleet, and for the
more part white."

Paulus Jovius (Giovio), Bishop of Nocera, in 1548
published a work, " Descriptio Britannia?," at Venice.
It is a compilation, and his statements are little to be
trusted; nor does the author appear to have visited
England. Speaking of the Isle of Wight, he remarks,
" The people there are pleased because they have no
monks, lawyers, wolves, or foxes." He says, " The
females are fair and beautiful, but they are not so
learned and highly cultivated as our own ladies."

Girolamo Cardano, a physician and astrologer of
Milan, visited Scotland in 1552, at the invitation of
John Hamilton, Archbishop of St. Andrews, whom he is
said to have cured of asthma. Among other things, he
advised for his patient turtle soup and distilled snails ! His

Introduction. xlix

fame having reached the ears of Edward VI, who was
suffering from an affection of the lungs, that " marvellous
boy" wished to consult the Italian physician on his case.
Cardan rode on horseback from Scotland through Eng-
land, and was introduced at Court in October by Sir
John Cheke, with whom he lodged. The astrologer
east the young king's nativity, and predicted a long life
for him. Unfortunately Edward died in the following
year ; but Cardan, accustomed to such mischances, re-
vised his calculations, corrected his figures, and made
out to his own satisfaction that the king had died
according to all the rules of astrology. The eccentric
career of Cardan has been traced by Mr. Morley, whose
interesting work was published in 2 vols. 8vo. 1854.

The following curious extracts relating to the people
of England have been translated from Cardan's Dialogus
de Morte, at the end of his work " Somniorum Syne-
siorum libri mi." (4to. Basil. 1585, p. 371, &c): —

" It is worth consideration," he reports, " that the English care
little or not at all for death. In figure they are much like the Italians ;
they are white — whiter than we are, not so ruddy ; and they are broad-
chested. There are some among them of great stature ; urbane and
friendly to the stranger, but they are quickly angered, and are in that
state to be dreaded. They are strong in war, but they want caution ;
greedy enough after food and drink, but therein they do not equal the
Germans. There are great intellects among them. In dress they are
like Italians ; for they are glad to boast themselves most nearly allied
to them, and therefore study to imitate as much as possible their

1 Introduction.

manner and their clothes. And yet, even in form, they are more
like the Germans, the French and the Spaniards. The English are
faithful, liberal, and ambitious. But as for fortitude, the things done
by the Highland Scots are the most wonderful. They, when they are
led to execution, take a piper with them ; and he, who is himself often
one of the condemned, plays them up dancing to their death."

Speaking of the English language, Cardan says: —

" I wondered much, especially when I was in England, and rode
about on horseback in the neighbourhood of London, for I seemed to
be in Italy. When I looked among those groups of English sitting
together, I completely thought myself to be among Italians ; they
were like, as I said, in figure, manners, dress, gesture, colour ; but
when they opened their mouths I could not understand so much as a
word, and wondered at them as if they were my countrymen gone
mad and raving. For they inflect the tongue upon the palate, twist
words in the mouth, and maintain a sort of gnashing with the teeth."

The Italian " Relation of England," which was drawn
up by the Venetian Ambassador, Giovanni Micheli in
1556-7, is considered to be the best and most trustworthy
of those valuable and important narratives. A transla-
tion of a great portion has been introduced by Sir Henry
Ellis in his " Letters," Second Series, vol. 2. We have
made use, in our Notes, of certain extracts translated
from the larger Report.

Master Estienne Perlin, " estudiant en Puniversite
de Paris," visited England in the last two years of
Edward VI, and was an eyewitness of some of the me-
morable events that marked the commencement of the
reign of Queen Mary. His " Description des Royaulmes

Introduction. li

d'Angleterre et d'Escosse" was published at Paris in 1 558. 1
He was a right good hater of the English, and we have
quoted many of his observations and remarks upon perfide
Albion.

As we approach the times of that " bright occidental
star, Queen Elizabeth, of most happy memory," we
remark without surprise the increase of our foreign
travellers ; their curiosity was naturally excited to be-
hold with their own eyes those much-vaunted charms,
extraordinary virtues, and princely qualities with which
the maiden Majesty of England was endowed ; and
mention of their visits to her Court is frequently made
in Nichols's Progresses of the Queen. Some came
only to see the angel in the house, some ventured even
to woo, but none could win the fair prize. One of the
most extraordinary of these visits was made by a woman —
by no less a personage, no meaner beauty, than Cecilia,
daughter of the great Gustavus Vasa, King of Sweden,
and sister of that Eric who was one of the disappointed
suitors for the hand of Elizabeth. This Swedish lady,
who is a very prototype of the wayward and eccentric
Christina, had an intense longing to travel and to imitate
the far-famed example of the Queen of Sheba. She
had heard much from her brother John in praise of
Elizabeth when he visited the English Court in

1 Gough reprinted the work in 1775, in 410.

lii Introduction.

1559-60, with the purpose of urging the suit of King
Eric. To England and to England's Queen, Lady Cecilia
was determined to go. Accordingly, on November 17,
1564, she left Stockholm — not in the capacity of an
" unprotected female," but shielded by the strong arm
of her noble husband, the Margrave of Baden, to whom
she had recently been married. After encountering
perils by sea and perils by land, the pair reached London,
and took up their quarters at Bedford House, ten weary
months having passed since they left the shores of their
native north.

Four days after her arrival (September 15, 1565),
Lady Cecilia brought into the world an infant son, who
was christened in the Queen's Chapel at Whitehall, her
Majesty herself being godmother and naming the little
stranger Edwardus Fortunatus, " for that God had
gratiously assisted his mother in so long and dangerous
a journey and brought her safe." Matthew Parker,
Archbishop of Canterbury, and the Duke of Norfolk
were the godfathers.

How the lady prospered at Court, with what speed
and success she brought her necessities before the notice
of the Queen, and in what estimation she and " my Lord
Marquis" were held by our countrymen, the letter-writers
and State Papers of that age sufficiently disclose.

Among other royal favours conferred, Roger Ascham,
" Secretary for the Latin Tongue," received orders " to

Introduction. liii

turn into Latin" a Patent for allowance of an annual
pension of iooo crowns to the Lady Cecilia, daughter
of the King of Sweden.

Before long it was reported that my Lord Marquis
had left London, intending to return homewards, but on
his arriving at Rochester he was arrested, by order of the
mayor, for large debts due to sundry London tradesmen —
butchers, poulterers, jewellers, and others — who had
supplied the Lady Cecilia with their goods. The mayor
reports to the council that Christopher, Marquis of
' Bawdwyn,' was a prisoner in his custody, that his be-
haviour was outrageous, and asks for instructions. An
Italian puts forward a claim for a kirtle wrought with
gold, and a Venice lute. The lady herself writes in
trouble to Cecil, complaining of the conduct of her
groom, who detained certain silver mountings made for
her saddles. It appears that she was, in the end, compelled
to sell her jewels, and to call in the aid of the Queen,
before the unlucky pair could get out of their difficulties
and distresses ; and that even when they had reached
one stage further, at Dover, an attachment was applied
for against my Lady for a debt of ^£300.

The poor Margrave of Baden-Baden terminated his
career in 1575, at his Castle of Rodemachern, burthened
with debts contracted by the extravagance of his wife.
After his death, she, like her more celebrated great-niece
Christina, embraced the Catholic faith, and died in 1627,

liv Introduction.

at the age of eighty-seven, after leading a rambling and
dissolute life.

Edward " the Fortunate" was not destined to justify
the epithet which the Queen of England had bestowed
upon him. He too, imitating his mother, became a
Roman Catholic, and inherited the possessions of his
father ; but, like that father, being greatly involved in
debt, he was forced to take refuge in the Netherlands,
where he served under the Archduke Albert, and met
his death in consequence of a fall at an entertainment in
1600. From him the present Margraves are descended.
Following the example of his uncle, King Eric, he had
contracted an union with a person much beneath his
station ; for a considerable time the marriage was not
acknowledged, and the legitimacy of the issue was con-
tested.

Helena, afterwards the Marchioness of Northampton,
to whom the poet Spenser dedicated his Daphnaida in
1 591, came over in the retinue of the wandering princess.
She was a Swedish lady, and was happy enough to resign
her maiden name of Snachenberg, when she became the
third wife of the Marquis of Northampton. She sub-
sequently married Sir Thomas Gorges, and died in 1635,
aged eighty-six. The inscription on her monument in
Salisbury Cathedral is incorrect in making Cecilia the
daughter ("filiam"), instead of the sister, of Eric, King
of Sweden ; this has been overlooked by the Salisbury
historians.

Introduction. lv

Camden has recorded the visit to England of a Polish
nobleman, by name Albert Alasco, who made both
his entrance and his exit in the year 1583, under circum-
stances closely resembling those which attended the de-
parture of my lord Marquis of Baden, but with a more
successful issue : —

" The same summer came from Poland, neighbouring vpon Russia-,
into England to visit the Queene, one Albret Alasco, Count Palatine
of Sirad, a man most learn'd, of comly stature and lineaments, wearing
his Beard long, richly cloathed, and of gracefull behauiour. The
Queene with much bounty and loue receiued him ; the Nobles with
great honour and magnificence entertained him ; and the Vniuersitie of
Oxford with learned recreations, and diuers pastimes delighted him ;
but after a while finding himself e ouercharged with debt, he priuily stole
away." — Camden's Annales, 4to. Lond. 1625, book 3, p. 42.

We have now arrived at the period when Frederick,
Duke of Wirtemberg, the " Cosen Garmombles,"
and " Duke de Jamanie " of the Merry Wives of
Windsor, paid a visit to the far-famed kingdom of
England. The narrative of his travel and experiences
in this country in 1592, was drawn up by the duke's
private secretary, Herr Jacob Rathgeb, who accom-
panied him in his wanderings. The book was published
at Tubingen in 1602, in 4to, and is the earliest work of
this description that we have met with in the reign of
Elizabeth ; it therefore takes precedence in our volume.

Frederick, Duke of Wirtemberg and Count Mom-
pelgard (in French, Montbeliard), was born August 1 9th,

lvi Introduction.

1 557. l He studied at the University of Tubingen, giving
his attention particularly to history, politics, natural
philosophy and its branches. Being fond of foreign arts
and customs, and eager, like the wise Ulysses of old, to
observe and study the manners of many men and cities,
he set out, in his twenty-third year, on a tour through
Bohemia, Saxony, Holstein, Denmark, Silesia, Moravia,
Hungary, returning through Vienna to Stuttgart, after
an absence of four months. In November of the same
year (1580) he married Sibylla, a princess of Anhalt.
In the following year he became possessed of the county
of Mompelgard, where he took up his residence.

In 1592, the Count, still intent on the acquisition of
wisdom and experience, contemplated another far-distant
and more important tour, and this was now in the direc-
tion of England. Accordingly, on the 1 oth of July, he
set out with two coaches and several riding horses. His
companions included a steward, a counsellor, a physician,
grooms of the bed-chamber, his secretary Jacob Rathgeb,
the author of the printed journal, with a queue of barber,
tailor, &c. At Cassel, Frederick visited the Landgrave
William, who was at that time seriously ill, but from
whom he obtained a Latin letter of introduction to
Queen Elizabeth, which soon proved to be of the greatest
service to him, and probably even saved his life. For

1 His name is not to be found in the biographical dictionaries.

Introduction. lvii

on reaching Olderson, in East Friesland, the Prince and
his party were attacked by a band of Stadian freebooters,
the innkeeper having given out that the travellers were
Spaniards. They were in bed, when at midnight the
robbers rushed in upon them with guns and drawn swords.
The Prince, with those of his suite in a small room, pre-
pared to defend their lives, and having himself pitched
the captain or ringleader down the stairs, they fastened
and barricaded the door, loaded their muskets, and stood
ready for a siege. The freebooters blustered and threatened
for a long while, till at length the Prince produced the
letter directed to the Queen of England, thrusting it
through a small window ; but when they saw the super-
scription they appeared satisfied and withdrew, after
having had " something for drink" (etwas zuvertrincken),
given to them by way of acknowledgment for their
courtesy and the trouble they had taken.

It is a curious coincidence that only two or three
months later than the above affair, viz. in October 1592,
our roving countryman Fynes Moryson, of whom we
have before spoken, travelled over the very same dangerous
ground, and in his Itinerary (1617, p. 37, &c.) he has
related some droll adventures he met with in his endeavour
to escape this terrible band of freebooters, of whose un-
gentle exploits he had heard so much, and who were said
to be very particular in their inquiries after Englishmen.
He accordingly disguised himself as a poor Bohemian

lviii Introduction.

boor, besmeared his face, and thus accoutred he went on
his way merrily, his " hands in his hose." He travelled the
distance from Stode [Stade] to Emden sometimes on foot,
sometimes in waggons, and concealing his money in his
shoes. Thus he passed Bremen, " a filthy place," (ex-
pressed more strongly by the Wirtemberg travellers —
" a nasty, stinking place," ein unflatige stinckete Statt),
through Steinweck ; Oldenburg, where he had a drink
of English beer, the goodness whereof made his com-
panions " speake much in honour of England and of the
Queene, with much wonder that shee, being a Virgine,
was so victorious against the Spaniards." At Leere he
heard news of the cut-throats being at Aurick. " Their
chief captain was Hans Jacob, a notable roge, and very
malicious to the English, whom he used to spoyl of their
apparell, mocking them with these English words, '/
cannot tell!'" Arrived at Aldernsea, "the freebooters
spies came to the inn and gaped upon us, but seeing us
all covered with durt, they tooke us for poore men, and
a prey unfit to be followed." Shortly afterwards Mory-
son reached Emden in safety, much to his delight, and
there, he says, " / wrote myselfe an Englishman ! "

But to return to his Highness of Wirtemberg. On
arriving at Emden, a bargain was made with the captain
of a i o-gun ship to take him and his suite to Dover for
eighty gold or sun crowns, exclusive of provisions. They
embarked on the 7th of August. It is at this point that

Introduction. lix

our translation of the Journal of the English Travels
(Badenfahrt) of Duke Frederick of Wirtemberg com-
mences. After an apparently agreeable stay in this coun-
try for a month, visiting the Queen at Reading, and
viewing the more remarkable objects of interest in and
within a short distance from London, they took shipping
at Gravesend on September 5th. We now-a-days term
Oxford and Cambridge " short distances ;" but what an
undertaking was it to reach those places in the reigns of
Elizabeth and James ! We remark in these Journals how
slowly the travellers went over the ground, how wretched
the state of the roads — in many places almost impassable
— the hired and tired post-horses dragging the lumbering
coach out of the mud and mire, and no others to be had. 1
We must not forget also the desperate highwayman ever
on the look-out for Viator's fat purse, on Gad's Hill,
Shooter's Hill, and other dangerous spots. 2 Journeys
were undertaken mostly on horseback ; coaches were a
very expensive luxury, and not to be hired anywhere but
in London. This may serve to explain why the foreigners
did not extend their tours into more distant parts of
England.

The homeward journey was anything but prosperous,
for hardly had they got half-seas over, when a violent
storm arose, and they expected every moment to go to

1 See pp. 30, 31. 2 See p. 49.

Ix Introduction.

the bottom. They were obliged to throw overboard the
guns and merchandize ; the ship's compass was broken ;
thrice did they sit up to their waists in water. In this
extremity Count Mompelgard displayed the utmost in-
trepidity and courage, and from his water-bed 1 spake
words of cold comfort to his companions in distress, and
inspirited the sailors. " Now, of a truth (Rathgeb ex-
claims) the proverb was verified — ' He that would learn
to pray, let him go to sea ! ' " The storm lasted a whole day
and a night ; at length, however, the voyagers landed
safely at Rammekens, and passing Dockum in Friesland,
escaping still another danger, arrived at Mompelgard on
the 1 9th of October.

The Wirtemberg historian Sattler 2 relates that, during
this visit of the Count, Queen Elizabeth had promised
to receive him into the Order of the Garter, and that this
honour would have been conferred upon him on that
occasion if the Queen had been minded to stretch the laws
of the Order ; for, according to these, the number of the
Knights was limited to twenty-six, and as this number
was already complete, it became necessary to defer the
fulfilment of his cherished hopes till another time. There
is, however, no allusion to this promise of the Queen in

1 The book is jocosely entitled " Badenfahrt," or Bathing-trip ; this
will be more fully explained hereafter.

2 Geschichte des Herzogthums Wurtenberg unter der Regierung der
Herzogen (1772), Theil v. p. 160.

Introduction . lxi

Rathgeb's Journal of his travels ; but it has been main-
tained, as well by Cellius in his Account of the Ceremony
of the Duke's Investiture, 1 which took place at Stuttgart
in 1603, as in the Correspondence between the Duke
himself, Queen Elizabeth, and King James, which is
found in the Museum and the Public Record Office. 2
The first letter we have met with is from Frederick, Count
Montbeliard, to the Queen, dated Stuttgart, April 2nd,
1593, in which, after some phrases of compliment, he
writes : —

" Your Majesty will doubtless remember what / in my own person
humbly asked of you, together -with the favorable reply made to me. With
this object in view, and because the proper time is near at hand, I
have despatched this bearer, a gentleman and good soldier, to solicit my
affairs, trusting to receive by him a favorable and much wished-for
answer."

Her Majesty, in her letter of May 31st, 3 does not touch
on this matter so fraught with interest to the German
Prince, but merely assures her "cousin" [alluding of
course to " Cosen Garmombles"], how happy she has
been to hear of his escape from the dangers of the stormy
weather in his so long a journey, which he had under-
taken out of honour and affection to herself. On the 17th

1 Eques Auratus Anglo- Wirtembergicus, 4to. Tubingae, 1605.

2 The letters in the British Museum, being but very few in number,
are expressly noted ; the others are in the Public Record Office, classed
under " Germany."

3 Endorsed " Cop. of her Mat 6 Ire to the Conte Montbeliard."

Ixii Introduction.

of August, Count Mompelgard, now Duke of Wirtem-
berg, sends over a special messenger to announce to her
Majesty his succession to the Duchy on the death of his
cousin Louis, which took place on the 8 th of August, and
hoping that she will be pleased to accept the intelli-
gence agreeably. This letter {Cott. MS. Vesp. F. III.) is
signed " Vostre Majeste treshumble et affectionne Cbeva-
llier et Serviteur, Friderich Due de Wirteberg," a fac-
simile of which is given in our portrait of the Duke.
The copy of Elizabeth's reply, on September 20th, in
Lord Burghley's hand-writing, is in the Record Office. It
is a strange composition in English, 1 interlarded with
French quotations from the Duke's previous letter : —

" Mo Coosin, we have receaved your Ire dated y e 17 of y e last moth,
by which you do advertise us y' it hath pleased God to rappel de ce vail
miserable a la vie eternell vfe Coosy le Due louys de Wurteberg, and
thereuppo yow hav take y' possessio de ce que a vous apartient ....
Yow ar known to us to be a price worthely born to sucede in y* dig-
nite," &c.

On the 10th of February, 1594, the Duke writes to
the Queen, sending good wishes at the commencement
of a new year, and he reminds her that he is still "attendant
d'icelle, une par moy tant desire responnce." This letter
has been, with others, wrongly endorsed " From the
Prince Elector Frederick."

1 This letter is endorsed " Coppie of hir Mat e . Ire to the Duke of
Witteberg;" but it seems more probable that it was merely the draft,
to be put into form by the Secretary.

Introduction. lxiii

On the 20th of February he commissions Joachim
Jhering to purchase in England iooo pieces of cloth, and
requests the favour of having them duty free. {Cott. MS.
Vefp. F. III.)

On the 17th of May the Queen addresses, from her
" Maison de Grenwich," a long epistle in French to the
Duke, referring to the receipt of his letter of the 1st of
March, which no doubt contained another urgent request
on his part to be admitted a Knight of the Garter.

She explains the matter thus : —

" As to what you have reminded us of a promise made of our Order,
we pray you to take in good part the reply which we formerly gave on
this subject (you being here) to the Ambassador of the most Christian
King our Brother, — viz. that seeing there are sovereigns and princes,
our neighbours, accustomed, from time immemorial, to be received
into the said order, who are not yet admitted, — even those who although
elected some years ago have not obtained investiture, we could not incur
the remark of a remissness towards them, and some other princes who
are from day to day awaiting it (at which they might with reason feel
aggrieved), and confer it upon others, leaving those unsatisfied to whom
we are bound by promise, which our honour obliges us to carry out.
Were it not that these motives, which we feel assured you will find
just, retard the fervour of our good will, such is the estimation in which
we hold your virtues, and the assurance we have of your devotion to-
wards us, that we should think all honour inferior to your merit. But
such being the state of things, we would pray you to content yourself
for this time with these just excuses, awaiting a favourable opportunity
to avenge ourselves of the honour and affection which you bear to us,
and for which we shall never be found ungrateful."

The Duke on the 12th of December addresses a re-
quest to Lord Burghley to be allowed to transport, free

lxiv Introduction.

of duty, i ooo pieces of cloth, sending him a gold chain
for his trouble. {Lansd. MS. 76.)

Now the Duke, mortified as it would seem at the delay
and the check given to his fondest hopes, despatches in
March of the following year (1595), his " Domestique
po r les Affaires," Hans Jacob Breuning von Buchenbach, 1
in expectation that the eloquence of his ambassador would
produce that good result which letters had hitherto failed
to accomplish. Breuning was (says Sattler) " a man who
by rare travels had acquired the regard of the Duke, and
was acquainted with several languages." 2 Her Majesty
gave him the first audience on the 6th of April. As
soon as he entered the so-called Privy Chamber she
advanced towards him with open arms, nearly to the
centre of the room, and allowed him to kiss her hand ;
she then stepped back and seated herself in a chair under
a canopy of cloth of gold. When the ambassador was

1 The Duke's letter, introducing this ambassador to the Queen, dated
March ist, is in the Record Office.

- Breuning subsequently (16 12) published an account of his Eastern
Travels, in a small folio volume, entitled " Orientalische Reyss," em-
bracing Turkey, Greece, Egypt, Arabia, Palestine, and Syria. In the
Preface he alludes to his former travels in France, England, and Italy, of
which he gives no description, because, in his opinion, those countries
were sufficiently well known. The " Eastern Travels" were published
by desire of the young Duke of Wirtemberg, John Frederick, to whom
he dedicates the book, dated 1605. The volume contains the author's
portrait and many other engravings.

Introduction. l xv

about to go down on his knees she would not allow it,
and he was obliged to deliver standing his address 1 in
Italian, which was the Queen's favourite language.*
After the audience, General Norris and other distin-
guished English noblemen accompanied him to his coach,
and [Sir Henry] Wotton, secretary to the Earl of Essex,
to his lodging."

So far according to Sattler ; let us turn now to an
original letter of Breuning, the ambassador, dated London,
9th of April, which reveals to us some very curious and
startling circumstances in relation to his audience of the
previous day above referred to. It is addressed in Latin
to Lord Burghley, 3 and he writes to the illustrious Baron
as follows : —

" With reference to the subject which your Excellency brought
before me yesterday, I should there in person have excused myself more
fully, if I had not perceived that your Excellency would not at that time
have given me a dispassionate hearing. But since before God I am
in truth innocent of the offence (criminis) of which your Excellency
has accused me, I have therefore thought proper to send you this letter, —
not because I wish to contend with one to whose authority I willingly
concede, but for the sake of defending my honour, my name, and my

1 This speech is printed in Sattler's Jppendix, No. 32, and is dated
April 6th, 1595. In it the ambassador alludes more than once to the
" benignissime Regie promesse" made to his master three years pre-
viously.

2 Queen Elizabeth's Italian master was Battista Castiglione.

3 Lansd. MS. No. 79, among Lord Burghley's Papers. The letter is
endorsed, in an old hand, "The Duke of Wittenberges Messinger."

lxvi Introduction.

most noble family. I call the great God to witness that, by His favour,
I have from my youth held that vice (id vlcium ), above all things, in
the greatest abhorrence. Far be it from me that I should have dared
to appear before such a Majesty in such a state ! On that day I had
not even allowed myself to dine, in order that I might explain rightly
and worthily the matters with which I was charged. But that I was
unable to utter with becoming promptitude before her gracious Majesty
what I had conceived in my mind : I again and with truth affirm there
was no other reason than this, — that the unusual spkndour and regal
Majesty (the like of which hath not any other part of Europe, nor Asia,
nor Africa, the chief places in which I have visited,) at first so stupified
me that my mind became confused. After that I was not sufficiently
acquainted with a foreign language so as to speak extempore ; her
Majesty's interruption occasioned me to forget the speech I had pre-
pared, so that my voice stuck in my throat (vox faucibus barens), and
caused my tongue to stammer. Such being the case, I implore and
most urgently beg of your Excellency to change that unfavourable
opinion which you have conceived of me, and that you will hold me in
better estimation, and believe me to be a different character."

What other conclusion can we draw from the above
than this, that poor Breuning had been complained of
for having appeared before the great Queen Elizabeth in
a state of — must it be said — intoxication ? His explana-
tion and apology were, without doubt, accepted by the
noble lord, notwithstanding that the ambassador thought
proper to address by the inelegant title of " Le Baron de
Buglay" — "Cecil, the grave, the wise, the great, the
good," as Ben Jonson styles him.

Breuning, in his letter, then comes to the main object
of his mission to England, viz. his master's speedy ac-
quisition of the Garter, according to royal promise. He

Introduction. lxvii

begs her Majesty to be mindful of this, and now at length
to vouchsafe to grace the Duke with that earnestly wished-
for dignity. In conclusion, he is commissioned by his
Highness to entreat of his Excellency to aid him in his
endeavours to obtain it.

Sattler, who would seem to have had before him
Breuning's report of his proceedings in England, which
is in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, continues his narra-
tive : —

" But many were the honors shown to the Ambassador, yet his re-
quest met with great difficulties, because the King of France, and James,
King of Scotland, had been already elected but had not yet received the
ensigns of the Order, since by the rules of the Order under such cir-
cumstances no new choice could possibly take place. The greatest
difficulty, however, was that the Queen herself could no more remember
having promised the Order to the Duke. But it was conjectured that
she had secret reasons for making this excuse, because the Duke placed
the entire ground of his hope upon this promise, and the Ambassador
repeated this very often. Notwithstanding, however, the Queen re-
mained firm in her resolution, and the Ambassador in uncertainty, yet
he was invited to the Feast of the Order which then took place, 1 and
was fetched in two coaches, with very many attendants, by a dis-
tinguished nobleman, Neville. On this occasion Breuning fell into a
precedence squabble ; for Maurice, Landgrave of Hesse Cassel had
Count Philip von Solms as his Ambassador at that court, on whose
right hand Breuning had kept himself as much as he was able all the
time both in going and returning. The English made a greater fuss
with this Count, partly because he was already known to them, and

1 On St. George's Day, April 23rd, which is generally said to be
Shakespeare's birthday.

lxviii Introduction.

partly because he was a Count. When now both envoys were to
occupy the table in the Earl of Essex's chamber, and my lord Brackhorst
(Thomas Sackville, Lord Buckhurst, afterwards Earl of Dorset,) had
placed Von Solms solitary and alone on a stool at the head of a vacant
table, the latter took this honour .for granted ; a seat at the side, how-
ever, was assigned to Breuning, the Wirtemberg ambassador, who
openly protested against this before Von Solms and all the English
gentlemen present, who were in attendance upon them. The Count
would neither rise nor yield, until at last Breuning approached the door
and threatened to depart, when the Count von Solms, at the entreaty of
the English gentlemen, resolved upon giving way, and an English my
lord, in the name of the Queen, took the upper place. While now
the Count intimated that he had no order for any innovation, Breuning
placed himself by the side of my lord at the upper end, and gave the
Count to understand that he well knew how he was to behave towards
a Count, but he likewise remembered that they both represented not
their own but their masters' persons. This quarrel was presently
brought under the notice of the Queen, and known to the whole
Court, and caused great honour to the Duke as well as to the Am-
bassador. 1

"The 26th of April was appointed for another audience, when
Breuning was conducted with no other person than Benjamin von
Buwinghausen into the presence of the Queen, who addressed him in
Latin as follows : c I have perfectly understood all the matters which
you have lately brought before me in the Italian language, in the name
of your illustrious Prince, and which subsequently by my order you
have represented in writing on the same subject in Latin. For this
reason I have sent for you, that I might tell you what you must explain
from me to your illustrious Prince. And if you should have anything
to speak to me more at large, which on account of the number of

1 This " clash " between the ambassadors, Sir John Finett, master
of the ceremonies to Charles I, would have been delighted to recount.

Introduction. 1

xix

bystanders you perchance omitted to declare, you can now freely bring
it forward. For now I wish to speak familiarly with you.' The
Ambassador answered that he hoped to be able to take back with him
to his Master a satisfactory answer in reference to the promised Order.
Her Majesty thereupon gave him to understand that she could remember
no promise made, and that the Ambassador who had been sent to her
a year ago, had misunderstood her answer. For she could not, on
account of other knights already elected, but to whom the ensigns of
the Order were not yet sent, deviate from the rules of the Order.
Now the Ambassador could not call to mind that any one had been
sent to the Queen on this suit. There was, however, at that time at
the royal court a certain Stammler, who had given himself out for a
Wirtemberg envoy, and had laid his credentials before the High Trea-
surer, but who had no other business than to purchase English cloth.
This person made himself despicable by his conduct, and was banished
the kingdom on account of his discreditable tricks. Nevertheless,
Breuning perceived quite well that such a circumstance would operate
as a great obstacle to his solicitation. For this reason he requested
a written reply, which the Queen promised him, and she still further
proposed to apprise the Duke— (ist) That he should constantly bear
in mind what she had told him three years before, namely, that German
Princes should not meddle in any foreign quarrels, but only care for
what concerned them ; (2ndly) Not to suffer the agitations and libels
of theologians ; (3rdly) To provide every assistance and security for
English merchants and subjects ; and lastly, That he should not give
credence to the evil reports current against the Queen, but should
defend her. On which points she conversed for nearly an hour
standing, notwithstanding that she had attained the 64th [62d] year
of her age."

The draft of the written reply of her Majesty above
alluded to is in the Record Office. It is in French, and
wholly relates to the. Duke's oft-repeated request for the

lxx Introduction.

Garter. She regrets the difficulties and obstacles which
have presented themselves ; her own wish is as prompt
and ready as the Duke himself could desire. She wishes
that he had borne in mind certain reasons she formerly
gave him on this very subject, which, if rightly weighed,
might have induced him to spare the labour of the gen-
tleman his messenger. After explaining these at some
length, she concludes : " Your messenger will relate to
you more at large the matters which we have given him
in charge." 1

On the 14th of July the Duke writes two letters, one
to the Queen in answer to the above, the other to Lord
Burghley. 2 The former is couched in a very humble
strain, and he assures her Majesty that he is content to
await her royal promise, and begs that she will not take
in bad part his so frequent solicitations and reiterated
applications (" mes sy souuentes solicitations et recharges")
The second letter enters into a long explanation, in a
tone of offended dignity, respecting the free transporta-
tion of 1000 pieces of cloth for his own use, and the
misunderstanding arising from the proceedings of a certain

1 The endorsement on the letter reads : " Aprill, 1595. Draught
of a Ire w ch I conceaved upon the remembrance of one w cb Mr.
Lock translated out of English to the Conte Montbeliart, from her
Ma tie ."

2 The former, written in French, is in the Record Office ; the latter,
in Latin, in the British Museum {Lansd. MS. No. 79).

Introduction. lxxi

person employed for this purpose a few years before
(evidently the aforesaid Stammler). At the same time he
takes occasion to thank his Lordship, as well as Sir Robert
Cecil, his son, for their promises of assistance.

A lull follows ; but, according to Assum, 1 the Duke
received letters from the Queen, dated Jan. ioth, 1597,
giving him to understand that he would shortly be
elected. On May 10 [April 30, old style in England]
his Highness sent three letters by one of his domes-
tics to the English court : viz. to the Queen, to Lord
Burghley, and to Sir Robert Cecil. In the first, he
employs very humble and complimentary language,
and wishes her Majesty long life and victory over
her enemies ; at the same time he begs her " d'auoir
souuenance de ses Royalles promesses a moy faictes." He
solicits the aid of the 'Baron de Bourghley' — "pour
avancer mes affaires" — and waits a reply ; and he writes
in a similar strain to Sir Robert Cecil, accompanying the
request with a "petite souvenance" promised by his am-
bassador, Breuning, two years before. The Duke follows
this up by a letter dated August 3rd [July 24, O. S.], in
which he says, that knowing her Majesty is curious in
seeing artificial things of foreign countries, he sends
her a handsome present in the shape of a " chandelier,
fagon d'Allemagne" to be used in her cabinet, which was

1 In a Latin Poem, entitled, " Panegyrici tres Anglowirttemberglci"
&c. 1604, 4to.

lxxii Introduction.

to be delivered by the hands of Captain Neniman, a
native of Stuttgart, who was going to visit his friends.
The present of the chandelier had the desired effect, and
produced, on the ioth of October, a letter from the
Queen, communicating the agreeable intelligence that
his Highness had been elected a Companion of the
Order of the Garter, " to which honour (she remarks)
we have always chosen great Princes our allies, and
other personages who have acquired reputation by their
merits." She moreover informs him that she had des-
patched her servant, John Spilman 1 the bearer, expressly
to him on this affair.

1 This John Spilman was a German, born at Lindau. He settled
at Dartford, where, shortly before 1588, he erected a paper-mill, which
at that time was a great curiosity, although not the earliest in this
country, a record being extant that Henry VII. had, in 1498, viewed
a "Paper Mylne" at Hertford, when he gave in reward lbs. %d.
Thousands flocked to see this paper-mill set up in Kent by the
" straunger," who employed no less than 600 men. Thomas Church-
yard wrote a very curious poem, entitled : " A Description and playne
Discourse of Paper, and the whole benefits that Paper brings, setting
foorth in verse a Paper-Myll built near Darthford, by an High Germaine,
called Master Spilman, Jeweller to the Queenes Majestie ;" 4*0. 1588.
In the following year a special licence was granted by Elizabeth to
" John Spilman, her Ma. ties Juiler or gouldesmith of her Juelles, for
the gatheringe of all maner of linen ragges, scrolles or scrappes of
p[ar]chement, peaces of lyme, leather, shreddes and clippinges of cardes
and oulde fishinge nettes fitte and necessarie for the makinge of all or
anie sorte or sortes of white wrightinge paper ... for the space of tenne

Introduction. lxxiii

According to Cellius, the Queen sent the Duke a pre-
sent of an elegant English coach [Rhedam she Essedum
Anglicanum), rather a rtovelty at this time, and especially
so in Wirtemberg. Cellius (p. 91) has given a lengthy
description of the beauty and conveniences of the vehicle,
which in all probability was not unlike that cumbrous
one we see figured in Hoefnagel's view of Nonesuch.

There were still the habit and ensigns of the Order to
be received. The next step taken was in 1598, when
Benjamin von Buwinckhausen was sent by the Duke to
tender thanks on behalf of his master. Among the Cotton
MSS. {Galba, D. 13 ) there are two original letters of
the Ambassador, having reference to this mission, dated
London, May, 1598, and addressed to Sir Robert Cecil,
urging him to expedite the delivery of the answer from
her Majesty to his Prince. On the return of the Ambas-
sador, the Duke writes to the Queen, on August 14 : —

" I have heard with extreme regret that some of my enemies endea-
vour to calumniate me, and prejudice your Majesty against me. I have
given them no occasion for this. I hope that when your Majesty has
discovered this report to be false, you will have greater reason to con-
tinue your affection towards me, and give neither faith nor credit to
such vipers, &c. Stories have been told your Majesty that I have

yeres next ensuinge." {Harl. MS. iicfi, fo. 124.) In 1605 Spilman
was knighted by James I, on the occasion of the King's inspecting the
mill at Dartford. Sir John died in 1626. In Dartford church is a monu-
ment erected by him for his first wife, who was a German lady, with an
inscription in German. Upon it is also his effigy, kneeling, in armour.

lxxiv Introduction.

quarrelled with the Elector Palatine and other princes in matters of
religion or otherwise, which are false."

This long epistle, in French, is endorsed, " An Apo-
logie against some evill suggestions." He writes again to
her Majesty on November 20th, sending his most affec-
tionate recommendations by the bearer, who is returning
to England. He humbly prays her Majesty to remember
him, and to rejoice him with the sign of her royal
favours (" de se souvenir de moy & me rejouyr du signe de ses
Royalles faveurs") Again the impatient Prince addresses
her on January |f, 1599, wishing her " ung bon nouvel
annee ; " and with a view to quicken her sluggishness, he
begs to offer another little present — "ce petit present
facon de ce pais." He continues : —

" I waited all last year for the sign of the Order from your Majesty,
which I had been given to expect, but I have found myself hitherto dis-
appointed of my hope. I therefore take this occasion very humbly to
beg your Majesty to hold me in remembrance this year, and to rejoice
me with the said sign, which I wait for with great devotion, hoping
that the present that I intend then to send will be agreeable to your
Majesty."

In the beginning of this year (1599), Sir Stephen
Lesieur was sent to Spire as the English Ambassador to
the Assembly of the German Protestant Princes ; the
Duke, in a long despatch in Latin, addressed to the
Queen, on March 7th, promises to mediate with the.
Emperor and princes, that the prescripts of English

Introduction. lxxv

merchants shall not go forward ; he sends also another
letter to her Majesty, in French, on April 21, in which
he refers to his having given audience twice to the bearer,
Lesieur. In neither of these is the subject of the Garter
touched upon. Writing to Sir Robert Cecil from Spire,
on May 8 th, Lesieur says : —

" The duk of Wirtemberg, his manner of intertaining me, and
speech in favour of the Spanishe proceedings in the Empire, hath ben
strange and contrary to my expectacon, the one I impute, for that he
hath not the ordre of the garter w ch he greatly desireth, and wherof
with his owne hand he writtes himselffe knight, the other for that he is
in treatie with the Emperor," &c.

In October the Queen writes to the Duke : —

"As to the 'affaire' of which you desire the fulfilment, it has not
been the fault of good-will that you have not already received our Order,
but because there are also other princes who are elected, to whom we
have not yet been able to send it owing to certain hindrances in our
affairs, and who would conceive jealousy if we sent it to you rather
than to themselves. But we hope ere long to be able to give you the
contentment you desire."

Cellius, under the year 1600, refers to another embassy
to the Queen, by Buwinckhausen and Christopher von
Haugwitz. There is a letter in the Ashmolean Collec-
tion at Oxford (No. 1729), written by the Duke to her
Majesty, dated T 8 T March, 1602, expressing much friend-
ship, and congratulating her on her success in Ireland.
This is the last of the correspondence we have met with

lxxvi Introduction.

in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, who died on March
24th of the following year.

And now was the " winter of his discontent" to be
made "glorious summer," by the rising of that bright
sun, the most high and mighty James. Duke Frederick
was of course not slow to congratulate the new monarch
on his accession to the crown of England. Accordingly,
on July 1st, 1603, he indites a letter (Hart. MS. 1760,
fol. 90), wherein he expresses the great interest he has
always taken in England, and hopes that his Majesty
will continue the favours with which the late Queen
had honoured him ; he therefore sends his counsellor,
Buwinckhausen, to speak with the King on what he had
commanded him, and regretting that his affairs pre-
vented him from delivering these wishes in person. On
the Ambassador's return, James sends, on August 9th, a
letter of thanks merely ; but on September 24th, the
King, being at Winchester, writes another, which must
have rejoiced and fluttered the heart of the German
prince. In it were conveyed expressions of great regard
and affection, intimating that the " late Queen our good
sister made election of you to be a companion of the
Order of the Garter, which for certain considerations she
had deferred carrying fully into effect. To this end we
have appointed the lord Spencer to convey to you our
said Order, which we pray you to accept," &c. Accord-
ingly, the Embassy started on this important and costly

Introduction. lxxvii

mission, which is chronicled in a few words by StoW
{Annals, 1631, p. 828): —

" Soone after his Majesties coronation [Sept. 1603], order was given
that the high and mighty Prince Fredericke' Duke of Wirtomberge, &c
who had beene elected to bee one of the company of the noble Order
of the Garter by the late Queene Elizabeth, at Saint Georges feast in the
thirtie nine yeare of her raigne, should now foorthwith be invested with
the ornaments of that order, whereupon the right honourable the Lord
Spencer of Wormleyton, and Sir William Dethicke, Garter Knight,
principall King at Armes, was sent to the sayd Duke in that behalfe. In
which journey went Sir Robert Lee and divers other Knights and Gen-
tlemen. They tooke shipping the eight of October, and landed the next
day at Calice, and by Loraine came to Stutgard the second of November,
where the said Lord Spencer was received with much honor and love,
and the same day the Duke heard the cause of their comming, and highly
contented therewith, caused his principall noblemen and officers to be
sent for. Uppon the sixt of November (which was the day appointed
for that action), the Duke was invested, the robes, Garter and other
ornaments of the sayd Order, and other ceremonies were performed in
the Cathedrall Church of that citie, in as religious and solemne manner
as in like cases hath bene used, and all the residue of that day was spent
in great feastes, and triumpes,fower dayes after were spent in hunting
the wild Bore, and other pastimes, the evening before they departed,
were made very admirable and costly fire-workes, and nothing was
omitted that might seeme to serve for celebration of that Feast and
Triumph, and for the honorable entertainement and satisfaction of the
sayd Lord Spencer and the whole company ; finally they departed from
Stutgard the fourteenth of November, and returned all safe into Eng-
land before the feast of the Nativitie following."

There is in the British Museum a volume describing
in great detail the ceremony of the Duke's investiture at

lxxviii Introduction.

Stuttgart, written by Erhardus Cellius, 1 Professor of
Poetry and History at Tubingen. It is entitled, " Eques
Auratus Anglo- Wirtembergicus." 4to. Tubingae, 1605.
The author has also made use of Rathgeb's Journal of
the English Tour, which he has abridged ; yet, not-
withstanding the valuable matter relating to the cere-
mony of Investiture, it is a most tedious and tiresome
book to consult, being laden with digressions on every
conceivable subject. The copy above mentioned had
belonged to Sir William Dethick, who accompanied the
Embassy as Garter King of Arms ; and this very volume
was used by Ashmole 2 for the interesting extract he
caused to be translated by Edward Philipps (Milton's
nephew), and inserted in his " Institution of the Order of
the Garter," fol. 1672. Dethick has written on the fly-
leaf: " Hos ego versiculos feci — I gave the direction
and Intellegence for the accomplishment of all these
ho[norable] procedings conteyned. To the honor of the
Kinges Ma te and Renome of his most noble Order of
the Garter." It contains besides many notes, forms,
and precedents in his handwriting, and a copy of the

1 His name was properly Horn, Cellius being that of his birth-place,
Celle, or Zelle.

2 He says he consulted it at " the Soveraign's Library at St. James's."
But in Ashmole's account of the Duke's Investiture, Garter is incor-
rectly named Sir Gilbert Dethick. Cellius has given the Christian name
accurately.

Introduction. lxxix

letter or certificate written by the Duke to James I,
expressing his satisfaction with Garter's proceedings at
Stuttgart. Cellius could not print the herald's name
correctly ; he is variously called Dutleich, Detleick, and
Deilich. There is likewise inserted at the end a broad-
side copy of Latin verses in praise of Dethick, written
by a Tubingen poet, Christophorus Brunnius, and printed
at that place in 1603. Garter King of Arms seems to
have been a troublesome character. Anstis calls him an
" insolent and tempestuous officer." He received as a
present from the Duke of Wirtemberg a rich sword and
dagger, a chain of gold with a miniature suspended from
it, and 1 000 rix-dollars . He died in 161 2. In the Cotton
MS. (Julius C. in. fo. 144) is a letter by him com-
plaining of his sickness, troubles, and losses. It is
addressed to Sir Robert Cotton. He adds, evidently with
reference to this embassy : "I have sent you verses
prynted at Tubinge, where that Lo. Spencer was enter-
tayned w th many honors and orations by the Rector and
Learned of that Universite ; and he gave them nether
Aue, Salve, nor Vale. I will send you the Coppie of
the Kings Ma tes Comission and the testimonie under the
Dukes hand and seel, wherby my facts are justified how
honorablie I performed the same and Ires also yf they
were knowen to the world that would set me, rectus
in Curia. From my p[oor] cottage at Popler, nere
Blackw[all] 13 X brs 1608."

lxxx Introduction.

It is evident from the frequent references to, and
quotations from, this work of Cellius by Ashmole, that
it was considered by the latter to be of great value and
authority on the subject of which it mainly treats. The
translated portion, however, is too lengthy to be admitted
into our narrative ; a few extracts may suffice. A de-
scriptive Portrait of the Duke, en grande tenue, is given
at page 4 1 2 as follows : —

" The Elect Duke was most sumptuously habited from head to foot; 1
his hose were ash-colour and seamless, his breeches, doublet, and sleeves
were of silk prickt, slasht, and fringed, there shining all along through
the cutwork the gilt plate upon which it was wrought ; his sleeves were
wrought after the manner of a long pretext or senator's robe, with the
finest sort of linen, embroidered with needlework blue ; upon his wrists
were bracelets of costly gems, upon his fingers gold rings, most exqui-
sitely wrought and inlaid with rubies, diamonds, saphirs, emeralds, and
other such like precious stones, casting forth a radiant mixture of divers
colours ; the collar of his doublet was in like manner of the finest and
softest linen, and of a blue amethist colour, and wrought all about with
oylet holes ; his cap was of silk ending in a cone at the top, and girt
about with a hat-band of gold and precious stones, especially pearls of a
very large size, and also a circle of white plumes erected up towards the
top, and bending a little downward at the end. His shoes were likewise
of silk adorned with roses, artificially wrought with precious stones,
gold and pearls ; across his middle he had a belt very skilfully wrought,
and adorned with a sword appendant to it on the left side, and a dagger
(inserted into the belt), the hilt and handle whereof were all wrought
about and enamelled with gold and precious stones ; his cloak was of
black silk, bordered about with several orders or rows of broad gold
fringe."

1 His engraved portrait in this habit is on the back of the title in Cellius.

Introduction. lxxxi

Garter having delivered his oration in French, pro-
ceeded to the Investiture.

He " first devested the Duke of his cloak, sword, and dagger, which,
according to the custom of the Order, he reserved to himself as his
own fees ; but presently in the room thereof he invested him with a
surcoat of crimson velvet, lined with white taffaty, which he girded
close to his waste with a silken girdle, by which there hung a fauchion,
or shorter kind of sword, made plain after the ancient fashion. Over
his surcoat he put on the mantle of the Order, which reached down to
his heels, with a long train behind, and buttoned before at the top ; it
was of velvet, and of a mixt colour, purple with violet, and lined within
with white taffaty, as also faced with the same, and very neatly fringed,
and made after the ancient fashion used at the Institution of the Order,
over the left shoulder whereof hung the tippet or hood."

A procession was then formed towards the Church of
St. Ulrick.

" Next after Garter came jointly together the Lord Ambassador
Spencer, richly glistering with gold and precious stones, and with him
the illustrious Duke of Wirtemberg himself, so personable, and withall
so magnificently [and so strangely] attired, that he attracted the admira-
tion of all upon him ; some thinking his habit to be Turkish, some
Hungaric, [some Muscovitish, others Italian, others Venetian,] some
imperial, others electoral, others pontifical. The train of his mantle
was held, and carried after by Count Lodowick Leostein."

After so much solicitation, so many fruitless embassies,
behold now the sweetest hope of Frederick, Duke of
Wirtemberg and Count of Mompelgard, realized ; the
long-sought flower of honour gathered ; the glittering

lxxxii Introduction.

garter buckled on his knee, and himself become at last, in
the language of Dan Chaucer —

"A very perfect gentle Knight !"

Pfeil (De meritis seren. Wurtembergice Domus, &c. in
German, 4to. 1732) says that the Duke presented Lord
Spencer 1 with an entire princely table-service (" gantzen
Furstlichen Taffel- Service") valued at 5000 florins, and that
he caused a gold and a silver medal to be struck to com-
memorate his investiture. He sent by his lordship a let-
ter, dated Stuttgart, November 15, returning his Majesty
most hearty thanks for the honour conferred in transmit-
ting to him the habit and ensigns of the Order of the
Garter ; everything having been concluded with the most
happy success, and to his great contentment. He alludes
to his having been nominated and received into the
Order six years before [1597], and to the promise made
by the Queen eleven years ago [1592]. Her Majesty
had frequently, in her letters, assured him that she
desired to carry it into effect. " According to the
Statutes and Regulations of the said Order," he con-
tinues, " I am required to send, at a time named, a gen-

1 A sum of £969 13s. 2d. was paid to Lord Spencer for the expenses
of this mission; viz. £436 for his diets, at £4 per diem for 109 days,
begun September 7th, and ended December 24th, 1603 ; also
£533 13*. 2d. for his postings and transportation of himself and train.
The Interpreter, Thomas Ferrers, received 20;. per diem. (Devon's
Issues of the Exchequer., p. II.)

Introduction. 1

xxxni

tleman of quality to represent my said person there ; as,
however, this happiness will not fall to myself, I shall
send (D. V.) to the next St. George's Day such an one
as I hope will give contentment, first to your Majesty,
and next to the whole Order." Sattler (v. 256) tells us
that the Duke had adopted the title, and assumed the
ensigns of the Order, in medals and portraits, even before
it was conferred upon him, and that there are extant
gold and silver medals of this description of the dates
1.593 an d I0 °2 — the Duke conceiving that the Queen's
promise had given him the right to make use of these at
once. Accordingly, as proposed,

"On the 12th of March, 1604, the Duke despatched to England
Count Philipp von Eberstein and George Leopold, Herr von Landau,
with five servants, Christoph von Laymingen, with three servants,
Kilian Brastberger and Melchior Bonacker, together with a riding-
master, a clerk, a one-horse vehicle, and a trumpeter, with an appointed
servant for each. The Count was to be the Duke's representative at
the approaching festival of the Order, and Von Landau was to take
the Count's place in case of any accident happening to him. The rest
had orders to assist the former faithfully, as events might turn out.
The Counsellor Bonacker was deputed to deliver the address, and,
together with Brastberger, to present safely the arms and shield of the
Order, of pure silver ; and the riding-master, two horses with their trap-
pings, one set of these trappings being all of silver. The arms and
escutcheon were to be borne after the first Ambassador, and after-
wards they were, in the presence of the entire assembly, to be hung up
in the Chapel of the Order, next to the shield of the King of Denmark.
The Duke gave to the Ambassador for an offering- 200 ducats, struck
in Wirtemberg, which he was himself to shoot out of a purse into the

lxxxiv Introduction.

basin upon the altar, and then to lay the purse near it. The Duke had
had these struck the year before, and, in order that the correct date
should be upon them, it was stamped with a mark before the portrait of
the Duke, notwithstanding that the former date appeared thereon. The
Ambassador was further charged to seek an audience of the King on
the day after the Feast, to bring forth the two horses with their furni-
ture, and have them exercised by the riding-master, and withal to
announce that they had been selected from the Duke's own stud. The
embassy was obliged to take the route through France, because it was
very unsafe in the Low Countries on account of the war. They were
accordingly compelled to wait also upon the French King, and request
safe-conduct for their journey. On the 15th of April they arrived in
London, and three days afterwards obtained an audience of the King,
who merely replied : ' I shall do whatever I can in honor of the Duke
your master. To-morrow you must go to Windsor to the Installation.
Three Knights of the most noble Order of the Garter shall accompany
you, and on Monday next we shall celebrate the Feast of Saint George
in this our city of London.' The Duke meanwhile kept this feast also
at Stuttgart. When the Ambassadors returned home, and informed the
Duke that the King and his whole Court vowed they had never seen
finer horses, as also that the King had himself ridden them on the fol-
lowing day, he was quite transported with joy."

On the 6th of October (1604), the Duke, in a letter
brought to England by the Lord Howard de Walden,
sends his regards, and desires news of James and of his
family. The Wirtemberg exchequer appears to have
been at a very low ebb in 1605, and this was made worse
by the large debt owing by France. 1 Nevertheless, Ben-
jamin von Buwinckhausen managed to procure money

1 Alencon was in pledge to the Duke ; it was redeemed by Marie de'
Medici in 1612.

Introduction. 1

xxxv

sufficient for holding the anniversary Feast of the Order,
with becoming splendour, on the 23rd of April. The
Duke celebrated this festival at Stuttgart, to which he
invited several princes, but only the Palsgrave Philip
Lewis, his wife and two sons, George Frederick, Mar-
grave of Baden, and other inquisitive counts and gen-
tlemen, .were present at the pageantry. The Provost
Magirus preached a Sermon upon 1 Tim. i. v. 18,
19, and Johan Oetinger of Nuremberg described the
solemnity in two books in German verse ; the panegyric
prefixed to these compares the Duke to the Emperor
Trajan, on account of his physiognomy and endow-
ments. New medals, with the date 1605, were struck
to commemorate this feast, which lasted eight days, and
during which the Duke appeared in his remarkably costly
habit of the Order, adorned with more than 600 dia-
monds. (Sattler, v. 266, &c. Pfaff, Geschichte Wirten-
bergs, ii. 42.) He likewise despatched to England at this
time Daniel von Buwinckhausen and Friedrich Dagker,
with presents to King James and the royal family ; to
the former he sent his portrait, painted in the habit of the
Order, together with the Description by Cellius of the
pompous solemnity celebrated at Stuttgart in 1603, and
Assum's " Panegyrici tres Anglowirttembergici," bound
in silver gilt ;* to the Oueen he sent an elegant so-called

1 This is a rapturous Latin poem, descriptive of the Duke's recep-

lxxxvi Introduction.

Wonder-Casket (Wunder hasten), or writing-desk ; to
Prince Charles and the eldest Princess beautiful guns,
silver jewel-caskets, and other things. With respect to
the silver plate which the Duke caused to be deposited
and affixed in St. George's Chapel at Windsor, there is a
curious remark in a German Guide-book to England,
by Martin Zeiller {Itinerarium Magnce Britannia, oder
Raissbesc/ireibung, &cc. 8vo. Strassb. 1634). At p. 201 , he
says : " I read in a MS. book of travels, that when a
Knight of the Garter dies, the escutcheon of his arms,
painted on a silver plate (' silber blech') is hung up in
the Chapel at Windsor — among all which, that of Duke
Frederick of Wurttenberg is the finest, being of silver,
of a large size, and highly finished ; it is also protected
by an iron railing. But those persons who have been
there can judge whether these plates are of copper or
silver." Ashmole, speaking of these garter-plates, and of
the Duke's in particular, says : " As to the metal these
plates are of, it is to be acknowledged that the succeeding
Knights Companions did prudently follow the example
of their predecessors, who appointed their plates to be of
copper, and thereby unexpectedly defeated the design of

tion into the Order of the Garter. It was printed at Tubingen, in
1604, 410. by Erhardus Cellius. On the back of the title is a woodcut
portrait of the Duke. There is a copy in the Library of the British
Museum, but not that gorgeously bound one mentioned in the text.
The author was tutor to Julius Frederick, one of the Wirtemberg
princes.

Introduction. Ixxxvii

avarice and rapine. Of which we have an instance in
the Duke of Wirtemberg's plate, for that being of silver
and large withal, gave so great a temptation, that in the
late wars it was forced from the back of the stall whereto
it was fixed, with some difficulty sure, since they could
not get it thence without carrying away some part of the
wainscot along with it. The workmanship about these
plates was extraordinary." [Institution, &c. of the Order
of the Garter, fol. 1672, p. 627.)

A complimentary letter to the English monarch,
written from Stuttgart on July 12, 1607, completes the
correspondence during the lifetime of Duke Frederick,
who died January 29th, 1608.

The Wirtemberg historians allow the reign of the
Duke to have been, like most sublunary things, a mix-
ture of good and evil. They give the ruler credit for
promoting trade and agriculture, establishing institutions
and schools, for being a friend to art and science, and for
bestowing his attention on more beneficial objects than
the princes of his time had the sense to regard. Much
of his useful knowledge he had acquired in the course of
his travels. He was a man of great talent and of extra-
ordinary activity ; but one also of very determined prin-
ciples, and who held a high opinion of himself. A
distinguishing trait in his character was his uncommon
love of show, which he displayed on every possible occa-
sion. These latter characteristics are exhibited in his
conduct throughout the whole endeavour on his part

Ixxxviii Introduction.

to obtain the English Garter, and the enormous expenses
which this must have entailed. He had beheld the
splendour of the courts of Paris and London, and desired
to assimilate his own. He brought back with him
French servants, introduced French customs and habits,
and held a brilliant court. But all these magnificent
doings .and this gorgeous pageantry could not be enjoyed
without burdening the country with debt. In this diffi-
culty he had recourse to an expedient by which many
princes of his time vainly sought to create new resources.
He employed the alchemists, who swarmed about his
Court, as they did about that of the Emperor Rudolph II;
and he became their dupe, for he was as little able as
others to obtain possession of the grand desideratum —
the Philosopher's stone. So much was the Duke cheated
by these fellows, on whom he had squandered large
sums of money, that he caused an iron gallows to be
erected at Stuttgart, and hanged four of them, one after
another. 1 Yet with all this he invested considerable sums
even out of Germany, having advanced, as before men-
tioned, a loan on the security of the Duchy of Alencon
in Normandy. He has moreover the credit of having
displayed great zeal and solicitude for the Lutheran
religion. 2

1 See on this subject an article, " Friedrich I, und seine Hof-Alchy-
misten," in Memminger's Wurtemb. yahrbiicher, 1829, p. 216.

2 Sattler ; Pfaft's Geschichte Wirtenbergs, ii. 40, &c ; Memminger's
Beschreibung von Wiirttemberg, 1841, p. 92 ; Beckmann, i. 208, &c.

Introduction. lxxxix

The narrative of the Journey to England was, as we
have said, drawn up by Jacob Rathgeb, the Duke's
private secretary. It appeared at first under the title of
" Kurtze und Warhaffte Beschreibung der Badenfahrt :
welche der Durchleuchtig Hochgeborn Fiirst und Herr,
Herr Friderich, Hertzog zu Wurttemberg unnd Teckh,
Grave zu Mumppelgart, Herr zu Heidenheim, Ritter
der beeden Uhralten Kbniglichen Orden, in Franckreich
S. Michaels, unnd Hosenbands in Engellandt, &c. In
negst abgeloffenem 1592 Jahr, von Mumppelgart auss,
in das weitberumbte Konigreich Engellandt, hernach im
zuriick ziehen durch die Niderland, biss widerumb gehn
Mumppelgart, verrichtet hat. Auss I. F. G. gnedigem
Bevelch, von dero mitraisendem Cammer-Secretarien,
aufFs kurtzist, von tag zu tag verzeichnet.

Die Badenfahrt bin ich genandt,

Dieweil Ihr Fiirstlich Gnade hand
Ein gantz Nacht auff dem Meer gebadt :

Da Wind und Wetter gwiitet hat.
Die Wallen schlugen in das Schiff,

Dass sie drin stehen musten tieff.
Da hat es gheisen, kalt geschwitzt :

Da angst und noth, ja Todt einghitzt.
Du lieber Leser lern hierauss,

Wo man in solcher Noht soil nauss.

Getruckt zu Tubingen, bey Erhardo Cellio, anno 1602."

xc Introduction.

The translation is as follows : —

" A concise and faithful Narrative of the Bathing-
Excursion, which his serene Highness Lord Frederick,
Duke of Wirtemberg and Teck, Count of Miimppelgart,
Lord of Heidenheim, Knight of the two ancient royal
Orders of St. Michael of France, and of the Garter of
England, made, in the year 1592, from Miimppelgart to
the far-famed kingdom of England ; afterwards returning
through the Netherlands back again to Miimppelgart.
As it was noted down from day to day in the most con-
cise manner at his Highness' gracious command, by his
private secretary who accompanied him. Printed at
Tubingen by Erhardus Cellius in the year 1602."

The doggrel verses, showing why the book was called
a " Bathing-Excursion," were added by the printer
Cellius, who was also the poet laureate of Tubingen.
The following may give some idea of these : —

" I am called the Bathing-trip,
For his Highness in a ship
Bathed in ocean all night long,
Winds tempestuous blowing strong ;
Roaring waters rushing in,
Drenched his Highness to the skin,
As he shivering sat and sweating,
Fear with fever alternating.

Ye gentlemen of Germany, who live at home in clover,
O think upon our good Duke's straits within the Straits of Dover."

Introduction. xci

This work, which is uncommon, consists of forty-eight
leaves, in 41.0; the part relating to England commences
at folio 11. In style and language it is exceedingly obscure
and uncouth, the punctuation moreover is wretched.
A plentiful crop of difficulties is thereby presented to the
translator. On the back of the title is a woodcut three-
quarter length portrait of the Duke, in a square. The
head has been copied in Mr. Halliwell's folio Shake-
speare. Facing this leaf is a cut of the Wirtemberg arms,
and the motto Hony soit, &c. These two woodcuts have
also been used in Assum's book already mentioned. There
are a few other woodcuts in the volume.

In November 1599, the Duke made a tour into
Italy, desiring to witness the jubilee at Rome which
had been proclaimed by Clement VIII. He travelled
under the name of " Baron von Sponeck," and returned
by way of Venice in April 1600. The journal of this
tour was written by Heinrich Schickhart, and also ap-
peared at Tubingen in 1602. In the following year the
two works — now entitled " Warhaffte Beschreibung
zweyer Raisen," &c, were republished together at the
same place by Cellius, who prefixed a German poem
entitled " Wiirttembergisch New Jahr" [Jan. 1, 1603],
which, in spite of its poor versification, contains some
historical notices that are valuable, particularly concern-
ing manufactures and agriculture in Wirtemberg. This
edition has a different portrait of the Duke, which is a

xcii Introduction.

half-length in an oval. The interesting proceedings of
the English Embassy at Stuttgart stimulated, it would
seem, the publication of another edition in 1604.

With reference to the term " Badenfahrt," Beckmann
remarks that in the sixteenth and following centuries it
was the custom for princely families to visit watering-
places once every year or oftener, and that the young
ladies looked upon this with such intense pleasure, that
many even made the permission to do so a condition on
their betrothal. Such a journey was called a " Baden-
fahrt." A bathing-trip of this description was undertaken,
in 1 474, by the pious and learned lady Eleanora, daughter
of James I. King of Scotland, and wife of Sigismund,
Duke of Austria, to the Swiss Baden near Zurich, once
the most celebrated of all the German watering-places.
(Stettler's Schweitzer Chronik, i. 222.)

At Hampton Court there is a fine large whole-length
portrait, which was mentioned by Granger in 1775 (i.
292), as intended for our Duke. In 161 3 the young
Duke of SaxerWeimar noted at Somerset House a por-
trait of the Duke of Wirtemberg (see page 162). The
picture was not described by Mrs. Jameson in her
" Public Galleries," in 1842, probably on account of its
not being at that time hung, as she speaks of upwards of
200 at Hampton Court then waiting their doom. About
this time, however, there seems to have been great altera-
tions and additions made at the palace, for according to

Introduction. xciii

" The Stranger's Guide," published towards the close of
1842, the portrait of the Duke of Wirtemberg was then
exhibited; it appears under No. 824 in the List of
Pictures, and is ascribed to Mytens. In Felix Sum-
merly's Hand-book (1858), it appears under No. 508,
as well as in the authorized Guide by John Grundy, now
sold at the Palace. In the latter book there is a brief
biographical notice of our Duke. This portrait, which
we have seen, cannot, however, be that of Frederick : it
is totally unlike the contemporary prints of him, of
which there are several ; and Mytens, the alleged painter
could have been only about eighteen years of age at the
death of the Duke in 1608. It seems to us to resemble
more the portrait of the Duke's eldest son, John Frede-
rick, who succeeded him, and that would better agree
with the time of the execution of the picture, which we
believe to be by Daniel Mytens the elder, judging from
its style and certain peculiarities, such as the label on
which that painter was in the habit of inscribing the
names of the persons represented, — as here, in the left-
hand lower corner we observe the Duke of Wittenberg,
Wittenberg being the usual form of the name as adopted
at that time in England. He is dressed in black, and
holds his hat in his right hand. The portrait which
Duke Frederick sent as a present to James I, in 1605,
was in all probability a miniature ; in this he was repre-
sented in the habit of a Knight of the Garter.

xciv Introduction.

We possess a rare portrait of the Duke, engraved in
line, after a picture of Johan ab Heyden, by his son
Jacob. It is an oval, surrounded by emblematical sub-
jects and mottoes, and with six lines of Latin verse
beneath, beginning, —

" Europae lustrasse plagas terraque marique."
This is the portrait copied for the present volume.

It is necessary now to advert to a subject of considerable
interest in connection with the visit of the Duke in 1592,
bringing us as it does on the classic ground of Shake-
speare. Mr. Charles Knight, in his pictorial edition of
the poet's works published in 1838-43, started a sugges-
tion, derived from a perusal of the German account of
the "Journey to England," that Frederick, Duke of
Wirtemberg, Count Mompelgard, was the identical and
veritable Duke de Jamanie and cosen garmombles who is
quizzed in the " Merry Wives of Windsor " (act iv. sc.
5). This suggestion so happily made was critically
examined and adopted by Mr. Halliwell, who, in his
" First Sketch " of the play printed for the Shakespeare
Society, and since in his magnificent folio edition of the
great poet, has laid before his readers the grounds and
considerations which influenced him in arriving at the
same conclusion ; in the latter work he has given the

Introduction. xcv

portions of the journal descriptive of the Duke's interview
with the Queen at Reading, and of his subsequent visit
to Windsor. If this conjecture be allowed, it will have
the effect of antedating by a few years the generally
received period of the composition of the comedy. But
the similitude is too close to admit of a doubt on the
point of identity, and we entirely coincide with the
opinions expressed both by Mr. Knight and Mr. Halli-
well. It will be right, however, to make the reader
acquainted with some of these reasons, and, with a view
to assist his judgment, to add the different readings of
the incident, as occurring in the early editions of Shake-
speare's play.

The first edition of the original sketch appeared in
print in 1602; 1 the second, presenting but very slight
variations from the former, was published in 16 19,
both in 4to ; and the amended and enlarged play —
the form in which we now have it — in the first folio
of 1623. We therefore quote the passages from the first
4to. and the first folio editions, most of the prose in the
early quartos of this play being printed as if it were blank
verse : —

1 A copy of this first edition, which had belonged to Mr. George
Daniel, fetched at the sale of his library in July, 1864, no less a sum
than 330 guineas !

XCV1

Introduction.

Merry Wives of Windsor, Act iv. Scene 5.

1st Edit. 4to. 1602.

Enter Host and Bardolfe.

Bar. Syr heere be three Gentle-
men come from the Duke the
Stanger [sic] sir, would haue
your horse.

Host. The Duke, what Duke ?
let me speake with the Gentlemen,
do they speake English ?

Bar. He call them to you sir.

Host. No Bardolfe, let them
alone, He sauce them : They haue
had my house a weeke at com-
mand, I haue turned away my
other guesse, They shall haue
my horses Bardolfe, They must
come off, He sawce them.

[Exit omnes.
* * * *

Enter Bardolfe. Bar. O Lord
sir cousonage, plaine cousonage.

Host. Why man, where be my
horses ? where be the Germanes ?

Bar. Rid away with your
horses : After I came beyond
Maidenhead, They flung me in a
slow of myre, & away they ran.

1st folio, 1623.

Scena Tertia.

Enter Host and Bardolfe.

Bar. Sir, the Germane desires
to haue three of your horses : the
Duke himselfe will be to morrow
at Court, and they are going to
meet him-.

Host. What Duke should that
be comes so secretly ? I heare not
of him in the Court: let mee speake
with the Gentlemen, they speake
English ?

Bar. I sir ? He call him to you.

Host. They shall haue my
horses, but He make them pay :
He sauce them, they haue had my
houses a week at commaund : I
haue turn'd away my other guests,
they must come off, He sawce
them, come. [Exeunt.

# # * *

Scena Quinta.

Bar. Out alas (Sir) cozonage :
meere cozonage.

Host. Where be my horses ?
speake well of them varletto.

Bar. Run away with the co-
zoners : for so soone as I came
beyond Eaton, they threw me off,
from behinde one of them, in a

Introduction .

xcvn

Enter Doctor. Doc.

Where be my Host de gartyre ?

Host. O here sir in perplexitie.

Doc. I cannot tell vad be dad,
But begar I will tell you van ting,
Dear be a Garmaine Duke come
to de Court, Has cosened all de
host of Branford, And Redding:
begar I tell you for good will,
Ha, ha, mine Host, am I euen
met you ? [Exit.

Enter Sir Hugh. Sir Hu.
Where is mine Host of the gartyr?
Now my Host, I would desire you
looke you now, To haue a care
of your entertainments, For there
is three sorts of cosen garmombles,
Is cosen all the Host of Maiden-
head & Readings, Now you are
an honest man, and a scuruy beg-
gerly lowsie knaue beside : And
can point wrong places, I tell
you for good will, grate why mine
Host. [Exit.

Host. I am cosened Hugh, and
coy Bardolfe, Sweet knight assist
me, I am cosened. [Exit.

slough of myre ; and set spurres,
and away; like three Germane-
diuels ; three Doctor Faustasses.

Host. They are gone but to
meete the Duke (villaine) doe not
say they be fled : Germanes are
honest men.

Euan. Where is mine Host ?

Host. What is the matter Sir ?

Euan. Have a care of your en-
tertainments : there is a friend of
mine come to Towne, tels mee
there is three Cozen-Iermans, that
has cozendall the Hosts of Readins,
of Maidenhead ; of Cole-brooke, of
horses and money : I tell you for
good will (looke you) you are wise,
and full of gibes, and vlouting-
stocks : and 'tis not conuenient you
should be cozoned. Fare you well.

Cai. Ver' is mine Host de Iar-
teere ?

Host. Here (Master Doctor) in
perplexitie, and doubtfull delemma.

Cai. I cannot tell vat is dat : but
it is tell-a-me, dat you make grand
preparation for a Duke de Iamanie:
by my trot : der is no Duke that the
Court is know, to come : I tell
you for good will : adieu.

Host. Huy and cry, (villaine)
goe : assist me Knight, I am vn-
done : fly, run : &c. &c.

xcviii Introduction.

In the above droll scene of cozenage practised by Ger-
man travellers, particular attention must be directed to
certain corresponding passages in the two editions : — In
the 4to. we read, " There is three sorts of cosen gar-
mombles, is cosen all the Host of Maidenhead and Read-
ings;" in the folio this is altered to "There is three
Cozen- Iermans, that has cozend all the Hosts of Readins,
of Maidenhead ; of Cole-brooke, of horses and money."
We have seen that the Duke while in this country was
known as Count Mompelgard (in French, Montbeliard) ;
and also that a passport, in which he was allowed to take
up post-horses and " pay nothing for the same" was given
to " this noblman Connte Mombeliard," by Lord Charles
Howard (see page 47). We would ask now whether
this term garmombles used by Shakespeare can by any
possibility be intended for anything else than a playful
joke upon the Duke's title of Mompelgard — a joke
which would have had a peculiar relish for the members
of a court to whom the German had recently paid a visit;
but if the word be archaic, and a meaning can be found
for it, we are willing to yield the point. He did not
succeed to the Dukedom until the death of his cousin in
August, 1593, a year after the visit to England; but at
the time of this visit he had, no doubt, assumed with all
the pomposity of his character the higher dignity of
Duke, and we find it was usual even for the younger
princes of this family to adopt and be addressed by this

Introduction. xcix

title also. In the Duke's letter to the Queen, of April 2,

1593, he combines in his signature the two names,

" Wirtemberg Montbeliard."

It is also a very remarkable coincidence that the places

mentioned in the Duke's journey from London to the

court at Reading exactly correspond with those named in

the play. We see that he dined at Hounslow —

"Thus, doubtless, (as Mr. Halliwell remarks) taking the road which
passed through Brentford. He stopped the night at Maidenhead,
travelling on the Hounslow road which went by Colebrook, and pro-
ceeded on the following morning to Reading. The journey was taken
on the old Bristol and London road. On 19th August the Count left
Reading for Windsor, where he received great attentions, was shown
the noteworthy sights of the castle, and hunted in the royal park ; but
he remained there a very short time, leaving Windsor on August 21st
for Hampton Court, passing through a portion of the forest, probably
taking the road through Staines. All this is exceedingly curious, and
importantly illustrative of the play. The circumstances mentioned by
Shakespeare exactly agree, even to the names of every locality in con-
nexion with the subject, that is named in the comedy ; and the Count
unquestionably travelled with the possession of the peculiar privi-
leges then accorded to distinguished visitors to the court. He was
honored, in fact, with the use of one of the Queen's coaches, attended
by a page of honor, and travelled from London in this coach and several
post-horses towards the royal residence. On such an occasion the
post-horses 1 would have to be furnished by the various innkeepers free

1 A parallel case of cozenage is the following: — Francis (afterwards
Sir F.) Allen, in a letter of 1589, writes, " Mr. Devereux hath been the

voyage of Portugal with my lord [of Essex] his brother You

divined well, for he was cosened of all bis horses, and I believe, so will be
again." — Birch's ^ueen Elizabeth, i. 57.

c Introduction.

of expense ;— ' cozenage ! mere cozenage,' as Master Bardolph says.
The scene is, in all probability, an exaggerated satire on the visit of the
Duke to Windsor ; an allusion that would have been well understood
by the court within a year or two after its occurrence ; and the facility
by which the history of the event is unravelled, is one of the most
curious circumstances in its way in Shaksperian criticism."

" His grace and his suite (Mr. Knight remarks) must have caused a
sensation at Windsor. Probably mine host of the Garter had really
made ' grand preparation for a Duke de Jarmany ; ' at any rate he would
believe Bardolph's story — ' the Germans desire to have three of your
horses.' Was there any dispute about the ultimate payment for the
Duke's horses, for which he was ' to- pay nothing ? ' Was my host out
of his reckoning when he said, ' They shall have my horses/but I'll
make them pay ? ' We have little doubt that the passages which relate
to the German duke (all of which, with slight alteration, are in the
original sketch) have reference to the Duke of Wiirtemburg's visit to
Windsor in 1592: — a matter to be forgotten in 1601, when Malone
says the sketch was written; and somewhat stale in 1596, which
Chalmers assigns as its date."

Mr. Howard Staunton, in his excellent edition of the
poet's works (1858, vol. i. p. 637), is reluctant to accept
the above as illustrative of the cozenage scene in the
"Merry Wives." He says, " If any allusion to a visitor
received by the Court with so much distinction were in-
tended, an offensive one would hardly have been ventured
during the lifetime of the Queen." But, we venture to
think, from the whole tone of the correspondence between
the Duke and the Queen, from the former's constant
recurrence to the same stale subject, his Garter; from the
scenes related of poor Breuning his ambassador in 1595,

Introduction. ci

which became a matter of court gossip ; from the sharp

message that Her Majesty sent by him to be delivered

to his master ; from the stories that were told of the Duke

to the Queen by 'some of his enemies' in 1598 ; that a

harmless squib let off at the Duke of Wirtemberg, alias

Mompelgard, would have been up to this period anything

but unpalatable to Her Majesty. And we think also that

these circumstances may go some way towards our not

assigning a date so nearly approximative to that of the

visit, which may furnish an answer to Mr. Staunton's

next observations.

" Another forbidding consideration to this theory is, its involving the
conclusion that the ' Merry Wives of Windsor ' was written and acted
before even the First Part of ' Henry IV,' and that the fat humorist,
whose love-adventures afford so much entertainment, was Oldcastle, and
not Fahtaff. But the most serious objection to it is, that it strikes at
th e rootof the long-cherished tradition 1 of Elizabeth being so well
pleased with the Falstaff of ' Henry IV,' that she commanded a play to
be written, in which the knight should be exhibited in love, and was so
eager to see it acted, that she directed it should be finished in fourteen days.
We can by no means afford to part with this tradition : it accounts for
the many evidences of haste observable in the first draft of the piece,
and reconciles all the difficulties which are experienced in attempting
to determine whether the incidents are to be taken as occurring before 2
the historical, plays of ' Henry IV,' Parts 1 and 2, and ' Henry V,' or

1 First recorded by Dennis in 1702, and improved upon by Rowe in
1709.

2 Mr. Knight [Studies of Shakspere, 1849, p. 249) justly remarks,
" The exact date is of very little importance, because we do not know
the exact dates of the two parts of ' Henry IV.' "

cii Introduction.

between any two of them, or after the whole. The title of the original
sketch, ' Syr John Falstaff,' &c, the ' Merry Wives ' being at first con-
sidered subordinate attractions only, and the delineation of FalstafF and
his satellites both in that and in the finished version, are to us conclusive
as to these characters being old favourites with the public ; and if we
accept the pleasant tradition of their revival at the bidding of the Queen,
there need be no hesitation in receiving them ' without regard to their
situations and catastrophes in former plays.' "

In a note upon the passage in scene 5, as previously
quoted, Mr. Staunton says, " Our objections to this
theory, inasmuch as the visit in 1592 is concerned, have
already been mentioned, but it is far from improbable
that an allusion was covertly intended to some other visit
of the same nobleman. We learn that the Duke of
Wurtemberg-Miimpelgard was in England in 16 10, and
it is not unreasonable to suppose he might have visited
us more than twice in the long interval of eighteen years."
Mr. Staunton then proceeds to give a brief notice of the
last visit mentioned by him ; but he is mistaken in
assigning it to the same Duke, he (Frederick) having
died in 1608. The traveller in 1610 was his second son,
Lewis Frederick, who in that year came over to England
on a politico-religious mission, and a translation of whose
MS. Journal, written in French by his secretary Wurms-
ser (which we shall have to speak of presently), forms
the second piece in our collection. His father never
paid us any other visit than that in 1 592. A similar error
has been committed by Granger, and more recently by

Introduction. ciii

Dr. W. Bell. The latter gentleman in the second volume
of his "Shakespeare's Puck and his Folkslore " (i860),
refers to this Journal of 16 10, and from his not having
been able to meet with Rathgeb's narrative of the jour-
ney in 1592, he infers that the visit to King James was
the second visit of the Knight of the Garter, and that
the same Secretary may have drawn up both, and he
argues therefrom to show that the story of the cozenage
in Shakespeare's two versions " may refer to separate
periods [of composition], of first thought in 1592, and
of improved execution in 16 10," and from Dr. Bell's
taking this view, the subject is involved in considerable
entanglement.

Towards the end of Cellius's description of the fes-
tivities at Stuttgart previously quoted, mention is made in
the original work, but omitted by Ashmole as of no
moment, of a dramatic performance by a company of
English musicians and actors. There is likewise an
allusion to the custom prevalent at that time of certain
troops of English comedians, tragedians, and musicians,
frequenting the courts of foreign princes for the purpose
of representing and exhibiting their art. This interesting
passage we will presently reproduce, with others not
hitherto made known, but directly bearing on the subject
of the Wirtemberg relations with England.

On this topic of the continental peregrinations by

civ Introduction.

English actors much has been written. Mr. Thorns
first called attention to the fact in the " New Monthly
Magazine," 1841, and continued the subject in the
"Athenasum" for 1849.' Mr - Albert Cohn of Berlin
also published some very curious and valuable particu-
lars in the last-mentioned journal for 1850, 1851, and
1859. The researches of these gentlemen, and especially
of Mr. Cohn, prove from undoubted authorities both
English and foreign, that " English comedians," as
they were generally called — some bearing unmistakeable
English names, such as Brown and Jones (Robinson has
not yet been discovered) 2 — were in the habit of visiting

1 These articles have recently been collectively reprinted by Mr.
Thorns, underthe title of "Three Notelets on Shakespeare."

8 The fortunes of one of these strolling actors, an Englishman
named Thomas Saxfield or Sackville, have been followed with some
care by Mr. Cohn, who has printed a few items of payments made to*
the actor while in the service of the Duke of Brunswick. We supple-
ment Mr. Cohn's notice with an extract from Coryat's " Crudities,"
161 1, p. 564, relating to 'Thomas Sackfield,' evidently the same indi-
vidual as the quondam poor player. The author was present at the
Frankfort autumnal fair in 1608, and was delighted with the rich dis-
play of the goldsmiths' shops. " The wealth (he says) that I sawe here
was incredible. The goodliest shew of ware that I sawe in all Franck-
ford, saving that of the Goldsmithes, was made by an Englishman one
Thomas Sackfield a Dorsetshire man, once a servant of my father, who
went out of England but in a meane estate, but after hee had spent a
few yeares at the Duke of Brunswick's Court, hee so inriched himselfe
of late, that his glittering shewe of ware in Franckford did farre excell
all the Dutchmen, French, Italians, or whomsoever else."

Introduction. cv

various large towns and places in Germany and the
Netherlands, at a time when Shakespeare was still living.
Mr. Cohn has traced them in those parts as early as
1 59 1 ; and from 1600 to about 16 17 scarcely a year
passed without some of these itinerant players perform-
ing comedies, histories, and tragedies, at one place or
another in Holland 1 or Germany. Tieck and other
German critics consider that they exercised an extraordi-
nary influence on the German drama, and some have
even discovered in the early German and Dutch dramatic
literature, translations, or imitations, or adaptations, from
Shakespeare's plays. There is in the British Museum a
valuable and scarce work, the title of which reads, "En-
gelische Comedien und Tragedien," &c. small 8vo, 1620,
and it is further stated in the title that the plays had been
acted by the English in Germany (" von den Engellandern
in Deutschland"). A few of these plays appear to be of
English origin, and something Shakespearean may pos-
sibly be extracted from them. We gladly leave this
question of affinity to be decided by the numerous
dramatic critics in Germany. 2 Dr. Bell endeavours to

1 See also communications from Dutch correspondents in " Notes
and Queries," second series, vii. viii. ix.

2 Since the above was written, this task has been accomplished con
amore and in a very able manner by Mr. Cohn, who has just published
a large 4*0. volume, entitled " Shakespeare in Germany in the Sixteenth
and Seventeenth Centuries."

cvi Introduction.

show that our great dramatist had himself been one of
these travelling actors who visited Germany, and con-
siders it probable that he joined the Earl of Leicester's
troop which accompanied his lordship when he was
despatched to the Netherlands in 1585-6. From this
supposed residence abroad, Dr. Bell argues that the Poet
had gained much of the continental folk-lore which
is found in his plays. But Will Shakespeare need not
have gone far from Blackfriars to pick up scraps of the
German language and German folk-lore, for the Hanse
merchants were located in great numbers in the neigh-
bourhood of the Steelyard in Lower Thames-ftreet ;
indeed, there is no reason whatever to suppose that
Shakespeare was ever in Germany.

The following is the extract translated from the Latin
of Cellius. Among Lord Spencer's retinue were " Four
excellent musicians, with ten other attendants (ministris)."
They performed during the state banquet at Stuttgart,
and are described as — ■

" The royal English music which the illustrious royal Ambassador
had brought with him to enhance the magnificence of the embassy and
the present ceremony ; and who, though few in number, were eminently
well skilled in the art. For England produces many excellent musicians,
comedians, and tragedians, most skilful in the histrionic art j certain
companies of whom quitting their own abodes for a time, are in the
habit of visiting foreign countries at particular seasons, exhibiting and
representing their art principally at the courts of princes. A few years
ago, some English musicians coming over to our Germany with this

Introduction. cvii

view, remained for some time at the courts of great princes ; their skill
both in music and in the histrionic art having procured them such
favour that they returned home liberally rewarded, and loaded with gold
and silver." — Eques Auratus, &c. pp. 229, 244.

Dancing succeeded the feast, and then we are told —

" The English players made their appearance and represented the
sacred history of Susanna, 1 with so much art of histrionic action and
with such dexterity, that they obtained both praise and a most ample
reward."

The company of actors above alluded to by Cellius as
having a few years before visited Germany, was pro-
bably the troop mentioned by Pfaff and Wensin. The
former {Geschichte der Stadt Stuttgart, 1845, *• Il fy re "
cords that " a regular company of actors came to Stuttgart
for the first time in May 1597 ; they were Englishmen,
who performed during seven days before the Court, and
in recompense received from Duke Frederick I. 300
florins, besides having their expenses defrayed." In
1625 there was a company of six English comedians, who
held a permanent appointment at the Court of Stutt-
gart. One of these persons was John Price, who is
spoken of as early as 1609, and who received a salary of
270 florins besides his expenses at court, clothing, and

1 Duke Henry Julius, of Brunswick, wrote a play called " Susanna,"
printed in 1593. It has been reprinted in the " Bibliothek des Litter.
Vereins in Stuttgart," 1855.

cviii Introduction.

other emoluments. Other names given are John and
David Morell, and John Dixon. (Moser's Beschreibung
•von Stuttgart, 8vo. 1856, p. 417-)

Daniel von Wensin, in his "Oratio contra Britanniam,"
delivered before Frederick Achilles, Duke of Wirtem-
berg, at Tubingen in 16 13, says, —

" Nor is it long since that the majority of artificers and mechanics
in England were aliens and foreigners, and the goldsmiths in London
were nearly all Germans. 1 Meanwhile the English have given their
constant attention to the pleasures of gluttony, (for it is said that they
imparted the whole culinary science and the preparation of feasts to the
French and Dutch, when they were masters of so many parts of
France,) as well as to trifles, and what is more, to the histrionic art, in
which they have attained to such perfection that the English players now
delight us the most of all. But who are these men? They are puppet-
actors, they are buffoons, whom the rulers designate as base and dis-
reputable, unworthy to fill or be appointed to any honorable position."

The above passage occurs in a volume of considerable
interest, entitled "Fr. Achillis Ducis Wurtemberg. Con-
sultatio de principatu inter provincias Europas habita

1 See the work edited by Mr. Cooper for the Camden Society, 1862,
" Lists of foreign Protestants and Aliens resident in England, 1618-
1688." From this it appears that in 1621 in London alone there was
stated to be 10,000 strangers, carrying on 121 different trades. Fre-
quent complaints were made against these settlers as injuring the English
tradesmen. In consequence, returns were from time to time ordered
to be made of all foreigners dwelling in London. In October 1571 there
were in London 4631 " strangers."

Introduction. cix

Tubingae in illustri Collegio." 4to. Tub. 1613 (2nd edit.
1620). Frederick Achilles, Duke of Wirtemberg, a
younger son of Duke Frederick, was born in 1591, and
educated at Tubingen, his favourite studies being history
and geography. In 1 6 1 3 he called an assembly of nobles
and others at Tubingen to discuss the comparative merits
and demerits of all the kingdoms of Europe. The Duke
himself, his brother, the Duke of Saxony, the Duke of
Schleswig-Holstein, and other nobles, made public speeches
on the occasion, pro and con. The Duke, as in duty
bound, awarded the palm to the fatherland. Thomas
Lansius edited these speeches, which must have been very
popular, as no less than seven editions of the work were
published during the 17th century. The 2nd edition
in the British Museum belonged to the Library of King
James I, and we can well imagine with what gusto the
royal pedant would peruse the arguments and remarks
on both sides on the subject of dear old Britannia.

The intimate relations subsisting at this time between
England and Wirtemberg, ' as also with the Elector
Palatine, whose wife was an English princess royal, must
have contributed not a little to attract and encourage the
visits of English actors to Germany.

In Kiechel's Travels in England, 1585, (see page 88),
will be found some remarks on our actors, together with
additional illustrations.

When Prince Charles (afterwards Charles I.) under-

ex Introduction.

took his romantic wooing journey to Spain, the contem-
porary account of the royal entry into Madrid, on March
23rd, 1623, informs us that "in the streets of the passage,
divers representations were made of the best comedians,
dancers, and men of musicke, to give contentment, to
the Royall paire [Charles and Philip IV.] as they passed
by." This scene is presented to us in the accompanying
etching, copied from a rare German print in the Gren-
ville Library. The performers are evidently exerting
their utmost powers of gesticulation and action on the
stage of their rude booth, which it seems probable was
the kind of structure used by our own countrymen, when
they were wont to figure, strut, caper, and declaim for
the amusement of German and other foreign audiences.
There is another illustration of an interesting character
contained in the Journal of Captain John Saris, an
Englishman, who made a voyage to Japan in 161 3. In
his narrative, which was printed in Purchas " his Pil-
grimes," (1625) l - 3^8, is the following passage : " The
one and twentieth, the old king came aboord againe, and
brought with him diuers women to be frollicke. These
women were actors of comedies, which passe there from
iland to iland to play, as our Players doe here from towne
to towne, hauing severall shifts of apparrell for the better
grace of the matter acted, which for the most part are
of warre, loue, and such like." In the Latin edition of
the celebrated collection of East Indian voyages of the

Introduction. cxi

brothers De Bry, (part xii. Frankfort on the Main, 1628,
p. 137), the above extract in italics from Captain Saris's
Journal has been altered by the German translator as
follows : " ut Angli ludiones per Germaniam et Galliam
vagantur " — (/. e. " as the English players stroll through
Germany and France") ; but in the German edition,
published at the same place and in the same year, the
passage has been rendered literally from the English.

Mr. Rundall, in a volume edited by him for the
Hakluyt Society, {Narratives of Voyages towards the
North-West" 1849), made known for the first time
some attractive entries, showing that certain of Shake-
speare's plays had been acted on board ship by the English
at Sierra Leone as early as 1607. They occur in the
Journal of the Dragon (Captain Keeling), bound, with
the Hector (Captain Hawkins) and the Consent, towards
the East Indies ; it was from the MS. Records of the
East India Company that Mr. Rundall derived these
curious particulars, which, we believe, have not been re-
produced by Shakespeare's editors since the date of his
discovery. The extracts refer to " Hamlet" and " King
Richard II." On September 5th, 1607, we find this
entry, " I sent the interpreter, according to his desier,
abord the Hector, whear he brooke fast, and after came
abord mee, wher we gaue the tragedie of Hamlett." On
the 30th Capt. Keeling notes, " Captain Hawkins dined
with me, wher my companions acted Kinge Richard the

cxii Introduction.

Second." And on the next day he " envited Captain
Hawkins to a ffishe dinner, and had Hamlet acted abord
me : w ch I p'mitt to keepe my people from idlenes and
unlawfull games, or sleepe."

*The second piece in our collection comprises a trans-
lation of the MS. Journal, in French, of the visit made
to this country, in 1610, by Prince Lewis Frederick
of Wirtemberg, the second son of Duke Frede-
rick. He was born in 1586, and after receiving a
careful education at Tubingen, was employed by his
elder brother, John Frederick, the then reigning Duke,
on an important mission to France and England, on
behalf of the United Protestant Princes of Germany,
who had entered into a league, in May, 1608, for
opposing the aggressive proceedings of the Roman Ca-
tholic Princes of the empire. Accordingly, in June
following, the Prince of Wirtemberg set out in company
with Buwinckhausen, and at first tried to gain the inte-
rest of Henry IV. of France in the cause ; but in this the
Ambassadors were unsuccessful, because, it is said, they
would not disclose the secrets of the Union in propor-
tion to the eagerness of the French court. {Sat tier,
vi. 12.) They therefore proceeded on their journey
towards England, the Prince writing from Amiens a
letter to Sir Robert Cecil (August 1st), apprising him of
his approaching visit, and desiring his Lordship to gain

Introduction. cxiii

him access to King James. We find the Wirtemberg
prince in London on the ioth, whence he writes again
to Cecil, mentioning that he had received his Majesty's
commands, which he was ready to obey. And inasmuch
as the season was already far advanced, if he were to
await the coming of the King into these parts, he would
be constrained to give up the idea of travelling into
Scotland, 1 which, under his Majesty's good pleasure, he
had proposed to do. Finally, he hopes the King will
allow him to meet him on his return at any convenient
place decided upon. 2

From " Oxfort," on August 26, Lewis Frederick sends
a letter to Prince Henry by the hands of Buwinckhausen,
to excuse himself from paying his respects to the prince
until after his return from his travels.

In September and October there are letters addressed
to James I, by the Elector Palatine and the reigning
Duke of Wirtemberg, the latter thanking the King for
his favourable disposition in the matter of the Union,
and for the kind reception of his brother and Buwinck-
hausen.

1 Scotland is indeed mentioned in the title of the MS. Journal of the
Prince's subsequent visit in 161 o ; yet there is nothing therein descrip-
tive of it. Probably the Secretary had an idea of introducing some
account of that country as seen by the Prince in 1608.

2 This and other letters are in the handwriting of his Secretary
Wurmsser, the author of the Journal.

cxiv Introduction.

Buwinckhausen, who seems to have been an able and
energetic diplomatist, wrote from Stuttgart, October if,
a long epistle to Cecil, explanatory of the affairs of the
Union. It appears from the Journal of 1610, that
Prince Lewis Frederick and Wurmsser left our shores
for Dieppe on the 23rd of November, 1608. The next
letter we discover is from John Frederick, the Duke of
Wirtemberg, to King James, the " Defender of the
Faith," dated Stuttgart, July 8, 1609 [June 28 O. S.J,
which is couched as follows : —

" Sire, I doubt not that Sir Robert Ayton, who has delivered to me
your Majesty's letters, together with the gift with which you have been
pleased to honor me, 1 will report to you exactly what I have charged
him." He then declares that, " since we have issued out of the dark-
ness of the Papacy,, and have thrown off the tyranny of that pretended
monarch, nothing in my judgment has been seen or heard — and from
the slight inspection which I have yet had of it, — nothing more signal
and remarkable than your Majesty's writing, and the form that you
have employed in publishing it. I hope one day to converse with you
on this all-important subject, and to receive ' salutaires et tres sages
instructions' from your Majesty, who is the light and buckler to all
Christendom, against this beast, so naively, learnedly, and happily repre-
sented by you."

Prince Lewis Frederick also writes, T 8 ^ July, a note of

1 James's book against the Pope and Cardinal Bellarmine, entitled,
" Apology for the Oath of Allegiance," which was now republished
with the King's name. The previous edition (1607) was anonymous.
The British Museum contains the very copy of this first edition, cor-
rected for the second by the King in his own hand throughout.

Introduction. cxv

thanks for the present to him of the King's book, which
he " intends to read with, admiration of the great know-
ledge with which it has pleased the Divine power to
endow his Majesty."

On October T V, the reigning Duke announces to the
King, Queen, and Cecil, by a special courier, his ap-
proaching marriage.

We now come to the second journey to England
undertaken by Prince Lewis Frederick, which is that
recorded by the pen of his Secretary Wurmsser. In 1609,
the step which the Protestant Princes had taken was met,
on the part of the Catholic Princes, by the formation
among themselves of a Liga or League, at the head of
which was Maximilian of Bavaria. The disturbances and
complications to which this antagonistic combination
gave rise were much increased by the death of the child-
less Duke of Cleves, 1 which soon followed the union of
the Catholic Princes. The members composing the Pro-
testant party assembled at Hall in Swabia, and renewed
their defensive league in February, i6iq. They then re-
solved that no alliance should be entered into with foreign
powers, but they were to secure nevertheless their inti-
mate relations and friendship. The Elector Palatine
and Duke John Frederick were deputed to carry out this

1 As he died without heirs, the succession was disputed.

cxvi Introduction.

intention. They thereupon resolved to send Lewis Frede-
rick again to England, and to associate with him Hippo-
lytus von Colli and B. von Buwinckhausen, who set out
on their journey on the 8th of March. Letters were like-
wise despatched by the Duke of Wirtemberg and the
Elector Palatine to the King of England, as well as to
Cecil, recommending the Ambassadors and the business
with which they were entrusted to their favourable con-
sideration. The Prince, on his arrival at the Hague,
addressed a letter, T 4 T April, to James, explaining the ob-
ject of his mission — being " affairs which concern the
public good and the preservation of our true religion ;"
and he sends in advance the bearer, his chamberlain, wait-
ing for his Majesty's gracious resolution. He writes
also on the same day to Cecil, begging his assistance.

The Journal expresses in brief entries the proceed-
ings in London of the Ambassadors, the chief point of
whose legation (as Win wood, iii. 147, writes to the Earl
of Salisbury from the Hague) was to induce his Majesty
to declare himself to be of the union contracted amongst
the Princes in the late Assembly at Hall. The letters
which Henry IV. wrote to La Boderie his ambassador
in England, display the anxiety he felt as to this negotia-
tion ; and on the 1st of May, 1 the Ambassador commu-

1 Ambassades de M. de la Boderie en Angleterre, 1606-1611 ; tom. v.
pp. 131, 203, 221, &c.

Introduction. cxvii

nicates to his royal master some particulars of the audience
which the Prince of Wirtemberg— whom he describes
" as not one of the most fluent speakers in the world"—
had received of King James. But it was at the same
time rumoured in France that the Prince had some
design " de faire l'amour en Angleterre." The letters
printed in Winwood likewise show the tardy progress
of this business, which seems to have fallen mainly
into the hands of Cecil. There were discontents and
grievances displayed both on the part of the Ambassadors
and of the King. James was drowning the cares of his
disagreement with the Parliament 1 at his hunting-seats
in Norfolk and Cambridgeshire. The wicked and un-
fortunate murder of Henry IV. (May T 4 T ), by which the
affairs of France were turned upside down, had even its
baneful influence and had created quite a panic in Eng-
land. La Boderie was told by the Prince of Wirtem-
berg, who was with the King when the news arrived of
Henry's assassination, that James " became whiter than
his shirt." James was at length induced to aid the Pro-
testant Princes by sending 4000 troops to be employed
in their service, under Sir Edward Cecil. The Ambas-
sadors of the States were dismissed. Sir Thomas Edmondes
was despatched to France to learn the state of affairs there,

1 See " The Parliamentary Debates in 1610," edited by Mr. S. R.
Gardiner for the Camden Society in 1862.

cxviii Introduction.

and to further, if possible, their resolutions for the suc-
cour of Cleves. It was also arranged that Buwinckhausen
should accompany him, in order to urge a continuance
of assistance from the French. Buwinckhausen came
back to London to report to James, and to make new
conditions on behalf of the league proposed by the
Prince of Wirtemberg. On September 20th, James
sends a letter to the Duke of Wirtemberg, informing
him that he had empowered his Ambassador Winwood
to proceed to the Assembly at Cologne, to assist there,
" on our part, to the common peace and establishment
of the possession of Juliers and Cleves." These feeble
warnings of hostility were to be rapidly succeeded by
troubles of fearful magnitude, which eventually fell into
the vortex of the war that for thirty years desolated the
whole of Germany.

The journal of Prince Lewis Frederick's English
tour is written in a simple, matter-of-fact style, in
French, and contains many interesting allusions to places
and persons visited by the Wirtemberg travellers during
their brief sojourn in this country. One entry is of
especial importance. Under the date of Monday, April
30th, 16 10, Jthe Secretary records that the party went to
the Globe Theatre to see Othello (" Le More de Venise")
acted. No more is told, and we have to regret the
practice of these old travellers stopping short at the
very point where our interest has been aroused by the

Introduction. cxix

meagre though often startling information afforded by
them. Othello was entered in the Stationers' Registers,
October 6, 1621. The first quarto, dated 1622, is entitled
" The Tragcedy of Othello, the Moore of Venice. As it
hath beene diuerse times acted at the Globe, and at the
Black-Friers, by his Maiesties Seruants." Malone at
first assigned its composition to 1 6 1 1 , but subsequently
altered it to 1604, which date seems to be confirmed by
an entry in the " Extracts from the Accounts of the
Revels at Court," edited by Mr. P. Cunningham for the
Shakespeare Society. Mr. Staunton remarks (iii. 645),
that " Mr. Collier cites an extract from The Egerton
Papers, to show that Othello was acted for the enter-
tainment of Queen Elizabeth at the residence of Lord
Ellesmere (then Sir Thomas Egerton, Lord Keeper), at
Harefield, on the 6th of August, 1 602 ; but the suspicion
long entertained that the Shakespearian documents in
that collection are modern fabrications, 1 having now
deepened almost into certainty, the extract in question
is of no historical value."

Bishop Hacket, in his Life of Lord Keeper Williams, 2
relates an amusing anecdote in reference to the visit of
Prince Lewis Frederick to Cambridge in 1610. (See

1 See also Mr. Hamilton's "Inquiry," i860, and Dr. Ingleby's
" Complete View of the Shakspere Controversy," 1861, p. 264.

2 Scrinia res'erata, fol. Lond. 1693, part i. p. 20.

cxx Introduction.

p. 62.) Williams was at this time Proctor of the
University. The Bishop says : —

" Soon after Chfistmass, the Kings Majesty commanded the Heads
of the University to give entertainment, such as might be prepared of a
sudden, to a German Prince and his train. It was the Duke of Witten-
berg. I cannot err in that I suppose ; for we of the younger sort were
taught to know him by that name, and his stile at every word was his
Excellency. The Duke was singularly learned for one of that eminency
and illustrious blood. Therefore it was thought meet to receive him in
the Publick Schools with a disputation in Philosophy, performed by the
most expert Professors of it, who were ready we were sure at the
shortest warning. I must do right to him that was the first Opponent,
that he charged the Respondent bravely with arguments of the best ar-
tillery. It was Mr. Wrenn of Pembrooke Hall, now the Reverend and
afflicted Bishop of Ely . . . who after twelve years of imprisonment in
the Tower, continues still in that cruel durance. Mr. Proctour Wil-
liams was the President or Moderator at this learned act, who by dis-
cretion, as well as other sufficiency, outstript them all. For, as the
Apostle of the Gentiles says : ' He was made all things to all men,' so
the Proctor manag'd his part before this Prince alia Tudesca; to Dutch-
men [i.e. Germans] he became a Dutch philosopher, for all his conceptions
he confirm'd by quotations out of Julius Pacius, Goclenius, Keckerman
and others that had been professors within the districts of the German
Principalities, which was so unexpressibly acceptable to the Duke of
Wittenberg and his retinue, that they kept him in their company so
long as they stay'd in Cambridge, and would never part with him ; and
in fine, carried him in their caroaches to Newmarket, and acquainted
the King what credit he had done to their country Philosophers."

This Prince, by a compact with his brothers in 16 17,
received the county of Mompelgard 1 , and was enabled,

1 Mompelgard, alias Montbeliard, in the department of Doubs,

Introduction. cxxi

by establishing mines and ironworks, to increase his
revenues considerably. After the death of his brother,
John Frederick, Duke of Wirtemberg, in 1628, he be-
came regent and administrator, and strenuously espoused
the cause of the Evangelical religion in those parts. He
died in 163 1. 1

The remainder of the group of foreigners whose Pic-
tures of England we have included in our volume,
represent, as already mentioned, for the greater part
German travellers, whose narratives are extant in print.
As notices have already been given, introductory to these
narratives, it would be superfluous to reproduce them
here. Many notes from these and other visits to our
country by foreigners have been likewise used for sup-
plying illustration to certain special portions of our col-
lection ; in particular, the relation of England by the
Venetian Ambassador, Marc' Antonio Correr (16 10),
during a portion of the reign of James I, may be referred
to as not having been before applied, we believe, to an

.belonged for a considerable time to the Dukes of Burgundy. In 1419 it
[passed to a branch of the House of Wirtemberg. In 1793 the Duke
|of Wirtemberg, sovereign Prince of Montbeliard, renounced it in favour
of France by the treaty of peace of an IV. The town has a strong
castle, and is famous for its watch manufacture.

1 Pregitzer, " Wirttembergischer Cedern-Baum," fol. Stuttgart,
J 734-

cxxii Introduction.

historical purpose. We have also availed ourselves of a
poetical Itinerary, written in German by Prince Lewis
of Anhalt-Cothen, who came to England in 1596. At
the age of seventeen this Prince travelled with his tutors
through the Netherlands, England, France, and Italy,
and subsequently visited Malta, returning after an ab-
sence of several years. He wrote an account of these
peregrinations in German verse, which was printed by
Beckman in his " Accessiones Historian Anhaltins,"
folio, 17 1 6, p. 165, &c. He tells us he went on two
occasions to Greenwich, on Sunday, to see the "wise
Elizabeth" go to church : —

" Wir speissten mittags dar, und sahn zur Kirchen gehn,
Die weis' Elisabeth."

He remained in England from June 22nd to July
27th, travelling chiefly on horseback. The Prince
of Anhalt was the first President of the " Fruit-bear-
ing Society" {Fruchtbringende Gesellschaft), or Order
of Palms — a society of poets and scholars, formed for
the purpose of extricating the German language from
the confusion occasioned by its being encumbered with
so many foreign words and phrases. (See page 149.)
During the thirty years' war he took the part of the
King of Sweden, and died in 1650. He wrote several'
poems, &c. l

1 Schmidt, "Anhalt'sches Schriftsteller-Lexikon," 1830; Sagittarius,
" Hist. Principum Anhaltinorum," 1686, p. 206, &c.

Introduction. cxxiii

In Nichols's " Progresses" of Elizabeth and of James,
frequent mention is made of the visits of foreign princes
and personages of distinction ; these notices have been
extracted from Stowe and others, but we have found no
reference to any of those persons who are included in
our collection, except Hentzner, whose valuable Journal
was first made known to our forefathers upwards of a
century ago by Horace Walpole. The German tutor's
description of the great Queen in advanced age is cer-
tainly the best and the most minute that we possess, and
it has been frequently quoted ; but the original edition
of the translation, which is the only one to be depended
upon for accuracy, and which we have used for our
work, with occasional corrections, is scarce and high-
priced, the impression having been limited to 220 copies.

It is worthy of remark that, at the period we are
treating of, there were foreigners of education settled in
England — "strangers and sojourners" — who held situa-
tions of confidence and trust with many of our principal
nobility. Levinus Munck, a native of Brabant, may be
referred to as an instance of this fact, and his career has
been already described [Note 103). Another, and a
more celebrated person, was the German poet, Georg
Rudolph Weckherlin, who was resident in this country
during a period of forty years. From his poems, and a
work written by him in English in 1 6 1 6, we are able to

cxxiv Introduction.

glean many curious allusions to English people and cus-
toms, not hitherto made known in connection with his
biography. Weckherlin was born at Stuttgart in 1584.
He studied law at Tubingen, and busied himself with
poetry and works of general literature. At a later period
(1606 and 1607), following the custom of the times, he
travelled into France as Secretary to a Wirtemberg Am-
bassador ; and it is probable that he accompanied one of
these ambassadors (von Buwinckhausen) to England.
He himself tells us 1 that he had resided three years in
England, which we may date from the end of 1607.
Shortly after the death of his father in 1 6 1 o, he returned
to Germany, and was appointed Secretary and Poet Lau-
reate to the Duke of Wirtemberg. He left his fatherland
apparently soon after the battle of Prague (1620), and
followed for a short time the fortunes, or rather the mis-
fortunes, of Frederick and Elizabeth of Bohemia. Sub-
sequently he came to London, where he obtained a
post in the German Chancery, which was established

1 Preface to his " Triumphall Shews at Stutgart," 1616. In 1619,
Weckherlin published at Stuttgart a poem in English, entitled, " A
Panegyricke to the Lord Hays [James Hay], Viscount of Doncaster,
His Majesties of Great Brittaine Ambassadour in Germanie, sung by
the Rhine. Printed at Stutgart by fohn Wyrich Rosslin," in 4to. A
copy of this work, which is of the greatest rarity, was sold at Bright's
sale in 1845, for £5 izs. 6d. It was unknown to Conz, who published
an elaborate memoir of Weckherlin in 1803.

Introduction. cxxv

on the recommendation of the Elector Palatine, during
the thirty years' war, for the purpose of conducting
more readily the affairs of the alliance with Protestant
Germany. Here he appears to have enjoyed consider-
able reputation, and was employed both by James I.
and Charles I. in missions to Scotland, Ireland, and
other parts. In the "Calendars of State Papers," we
find him, in 1628, Secretary to Lord Conway ; in 1629-
163 1, Secretary to Viscount Dorchester (Dudley Carle-
ton) ; and in 1633-4, Mr. " Wakerley" is named Sec-
retary to Sir John Coke. On February 20, 1631, he
presents a petition to the King, in which he trusts his
Majesty will vouchsafe him some gracious acknowledg-
ment of his services, lest he undo himself and his family
thereby. Meanwhile he is enforced to crave some " re-
freshing in this hard time." He therefore prays for a
patent in reversion, for thirty-one years, for printing
certain books named, whereby he may get some small
recompense, as the footman did, by letting the same grant
to the Stationers' Company. His request was granted,
for in Rymer (viii. pt. 3, p. 170), is printed a Special
License and Privilege under Writ of Privy Seal, April
5, 163 1, to "George Rodolphe Weckherlin, esquire —
to print or cause to be printed, utter, sell or sett forth
to sale theis Bookes particularly mentioned, i. e. Catonis
Disticha ; Pub. Terentii Comedie, Esopi Fabule, Pub.
Virgilii Maronis Opera, Ciceronis Opera, Ovidii Opera,

cxxvi Introduction.

Corderii Colloquia, Pueriks Sentencie & Confabulationes,
Lud. Vivis Colloquia, Eg log e Mantuani & Epistole Sturmii,
for the term of 31 years, in consideration of the good
and faithfull service of the said George Rodolphe
Weckherlin heretofore done unto us." In 1642 he was
employed by Charles I. in more serious and weighty
matters, for we find him receiving as much as ,£20 " for
a forraine dispatch." (Ashburnham's Narrative, vol 2.
Appendix xxvi.)

The work above alluded to as written in English by
Weckherlin in 1 6 1 6, is a literary curiosity, and is exces-
sively rare. Had it been known to Mrs. Green, that
agreeable writer would doubtless have derived from its
pages numerous embellishments for a portion of her
painstaking and interesting memoir of the Princess Eli-
zabeth. As it touches upon some English habits and
manners of the age, and still further shows the connection
between the Wirtemberg and English courts, we shall
make a few extracts from it. Weckherlin says- in his
Preface, " my skill was meane in this skilfull English
tongue ;" but no apology was needed on this score, for
indeed the composition is a very remarkable example of
correct English for the time, and the Stuttgart printer
deserves an award of praise also for typographical accu-
racy. The occasion which called forth the work was
the christening of the eldest son of the reigning Duke of
Wirtemberg, in March, 1 6 1 6, and it describes, according

Introduction. cxxvii

to the title, the " Triumphall Shews set forth lately at
Stutgart. Written first in German, and now in Eng-
lish, by G. Rodolfe Weckherlin, Secretarie to the Duke
of Wirtemberg. Stutgart, Printed by* John Wyrich
Resslin," 1616, Svo. 1

The author dedicates his book to the Princess Eliza-
beth, wife of the Prince Palatine Frederick. " Your
blessed presence (he says) was the chiefe cause of the
shews. " This is followed by a Poem, commencing : —

" Faire Princesse, glorie of this season,

The truth of your praise (vertues price)

Doth so farre passe all humane reason,

That he, whose hand would enterprise
T' augment your fame by his deserving quill,
Must either have much rashnesse or much skill," &c.

He addresses the " Gentle reader " as follows : —

" Behold here a small booke written in English by a German, and
printed in Germanic Therefore if thou art too daintie a reader, I doe
intreat thee, to seeke somewhere els fit food, to bee pleased withall,
as, I know, there is greater store of in England, then in any other

1 A folio volume of Plates illustrating this Pageant at Stuttgart
[10th to 17th March, 1616], is in the British Museum. It is entitled,
" Repraesentatio der Furstlichen Aufzug und Ritterspil, &c. Georgius
Thonauwer, Inventor: — Matthaeus Merian, Basil, fecit." The letter-
press description in the same volume is entitled, " WarhafFte Relation
Fiirstlicher Kind TaufF, &c. Durch Philopatrida Charitinum
[i. e. Johann Augustin Assum] — Getruckt bey Johann Weyrich
Rosslin und Johann Alexander Cellio, m.dc.xvi."

cxxviii Introduction.

countrie. As for me, beeing fully acquainted with mine incapacitie,
I willingly would crave pardon for this rude relation, if I did set it forth
by boldnesse. But to obey the commandement of my Soveraigne (his
Highnesse of Wirtemberg), / was glad to find out all my best English, I
had learned within three yeares, I lived in England, Therefore I pray
thee, to take it in good part, and so, as I doe meane it, though I doe
not say, well : and kindly to reforme by thy judicious reading the
faults either of the erring author, or of the unwitting Printer, who,
good man, never in his life saw, nor perhaps will see more English
together. Thus I shall indevor the more, to honour in German the
gallant English Nation, whereof (verely) I make more account, then I
can utter (though with truth) without getting the name of a flatterer.
Farewell."

After the dinner which followed the christening (p. 7), the second
company played " musicke according to the English manner with
cornets and sack-botts." After supper there was a mask — " when
there came forward with sound of music foure hudge great, but also
well formed heads, and there came out of the first head but one player
on the lute allone, in a red suit, allmost like an English shipman. To
the sound of his lute came forth after him a gentleman, that did
represent th' English nation. His hat was white embrodered with
silver, with a white feather, beeing the fashion of his habit, that was of
white silver cloth, as English Lords were woonted to use some twentie
yeares agone. He daunced a galliard after th' English manner ; and as
soone as he was neare the Princes, a wild Scottishman daunced out
from that same head, at the sound of a drumme, another Scottishman
played on. Now the Englishman seeing him come against him, began
to daunce likewise after his fashion, and was the one on this, and
th' other on that side, when they did see come out of that same head an
Irish harper, to whose play followed an other Irishman, that by his
dauncing caused the two first to imitate his sport too."

Running at the ring is described at p. 16. On a later day there
was a comical "turney by tub-headed adventurers." The last chapter
treats of the " Hunting and fire-worke." " My Prince (adds Week-

Introduction. cxxix

herlin) gave some tokens of the great affection he beareth to strangers,
to the English nobilitie. "

Weckherlin wrote numerous poems, mostly lyrical,
some of which are highly praised, especially the drink-
ing, love, and war songs ; some of his later poems are
vulgar and coarse. He is looked upon as the prototype of
Opitz, but it seems to be allowed that he has exercised
little influence on Germany. In 1641 he published at
Amsterdam a collected edition of his poems (Gaistliche
und Weltliche Gedichte), the preface to which is subscribed
" Gegeben an dem Kdniglichen Hofe in Engelland den
letzten Tag Herbstmonats, 1639" (given at the royal
Court in England the last day of September, 1639). A
more complete edition appeared also at Amsterdam in
1648, the Preface being dated " zu Londen in Engelland,
1647." A few of his poems are translations from the
English ; as the beautiful piece, ascribed to Raleigh,
commencing, " Go soul, the bodies guest," &c. called
here the Lie {Die Lugin). One of his odes is addressed
to Sir Henry Wotton (ed. 1648, p. 451). A Drinking
Ode (p. 532) contains the following verse: —

" 1st Engelland schon ohn Weinwachs,
Hat man doch gute wein darinnen,
Und mancher drincket als ein Sachs,
Wan er die schlacht gern wolt gewinnen :

Drinck mir ein glass des besten zu,
Mit welchem die Insuln prachtieren :
Then left us drinck, Pie drinck to you,
Kan ein wein disen surpassieren ? "
r

cxxx Introduction.

Which may be rendered : —

" Though England hath no vineyards fair,
Good store of wine she hath alway,
And the jolly toper drinketh there,
As a Saxon drinketh for the fray.

Bring a flask of the best, that we drink too
The wine that maketh the islands glad,

• Then lett us drinck, I'le drinck to you,'
Can better wine than this be had ?"

In the second Amsterdam edition (p. 819) there is an
Epigram on the tragical death of Abraham Dort (Van
Dort, or more correctly Vanderdort), the Keeper of King
Charles I's Cabinet, Pictures, Jewels, and Rarities, and the
compiler of the Catalogue of the famous royal collection
of pictures, which was published by Walpole. The
latter, in his " Anecdotes of Painting in England," has
related the story how Vanderdort, on being unable to
find a miniature of the Parable of the Lost Sheep,
painted by Gibson, when the King asked to see it, took
the matter so much to heart that he went home and
hanged himself! The date of this melancholy catastrophe
is not stated by Walpole, but Weckherlin has supplied it
in his punning lines upon the "poor fellow Dort" — this
word "dort" having the meaning of there, or yonder : —

" Von Abraham Dort, Konigl. Mt. zu Gross Britannien Gem'dhlden
bewahrern, sich selbs erhenckend, 1640.

" Nachdem der arme Bub von Dort

Sein ampt recht zu thun sich bekrancket,

Introduction. cxxxi

Hat er sich hie an disem Ort

Nach den Gemahlden selbs gehencket :

Hat also er Dort gleiches glick

Als die Gemahlde hie empfangen.

Dan Dort sah man manch schemes stuck,

Hie aber Dort selbs schandlich hangen."

" On Abraham Dort, Keeper of the Pictures of his Majesty the King
of Great Britain, hanging himself 1 640.

" Anxious to do his duty well,
Van Dort there, conscientious elf,
From hanging up his pictures, fell
One day to hanging up himself —
No more the pictures need complain
That Dort there hung them up so sadly,
For here there shows his art again,
In hanging up himself as badly."

After Vanderdort's death, his executors discovered and
restored the miniature, so that, as Sanderson in his Gra-
phice, 1658, p. 14, remarks, the lost sheep was found.

Weckherlin was married, and a poem in his collection
is addressed to his only daughter, Elizabeth Trumbull,
who was the first wife of William Trumbull, Esq. of
Easthamstead, Berkshire, son of the Agent for James I.
and Charles I. in the Low Countries. She was mother
to the noted Sir William Trumbull, the friend of Pope.

All the biographies we have consulted of Weckherlin,
including the elaborate one written by Conz, assign the
year 1651 as the date of his death, which took place in
London. But this date may be corrected by the

cxxxii Introduction.

inscription on Faithorne's fine portrait of the poet,
which he engraved after a painting by My tens, reading
as follows : —

" Georgius Rodolphus Weckherlin, an°. aet. 50. Natus
14 Sept. 1584: Denatus 13 Feb. 1653. ^ A - 69" On
the top of the oval are his arms — a beehive.

Having now emptied our budget of antiquarian gossip
touching travelling of yore by Foreigners into dear old
England, it is time that we take leave of those " aliens
and strangers" who have honoured our native land with
their presence. Let us, therefore, while acknowledging
our gratitude for any instruction or entertainment they
may have afforded us, paj*t in good fellowship with each
and all of them. Their earthly pilgrimages have been
long ago accomplished ; they are all gone to that "undis-
covered country, from whose bourn no traveller returns."
It is the Pilgrim's progress ever ! a warning to all of us
to bear continually in our minds the solemn caution —

" Let no man slight his mortality!"

FREDERICK, DUKE OF WIRTEMBERG,

1592.

TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN.

*^&3^

^^Vy-Av^ii

FREDERICK, DUKE OF WIRTEMBERG.

" A True and Faithful Narrative of the Bathing Excursion," which his
serene Highness Frederick, Duke of Wirtemberg, Count Mumppel-
gart, Knight of the Garter, made a few years ago to the far-famed
Kingdom of England ; as it was noted down daily in the most
concise manner possible at his Highness's gracious command by his
private Secretary (Jacob Rathgeb), who accompanied him."

Printed at Tubingen, by Erhardus Cellius, anno 1602.

N the morning of the 7th of August, 1592,
the wind being favorable, the Master of the
vessel, an honest, civil and experienced man,
ordered the anchors to be hauled up on deck,
and all the sails (seven in number) to be
unfurled ; by this means and the good breeze
we made such progress, that in the afternoon we got out of
the river [Ems] into the open sea. Not being accustomed to
the sea, we were seized with horrible vomitings, and most of
our party (with the exception of his Highness) became so dread-
fully ill that they thought they were dying, and often wished
themselves back again on shore. 1 We proceeded steadily under

a " Badenfahrt." — See Remarks in Introduction.

4 England as seen by Foreigners.

this fair wind all that night and the next day the 8th of August;
but then the last night we had a very violent and terrific gale : a —
the wind shifted and blew right on our side, by which we were
placed in the greatest danger, especially as there were four-and-
twenty horses coupled together standing below in the hold,
for when the ship gave a lurch by a gust of wind, the horses
immediately fell over each other in a heap, and consequently
nearly capsized the vessel : in short, many found it no laughing
matter, but thought that they should die ; nevertheless the
merciful God graciously looked down with fatherly eyes upon
us, so that on the morning of the 9th of August, towards mid-
day, we arrived happily and well near Dover, which is an English
sea-port, lying opposite to Calais ; and. we had sailed over the
spot where a few years before the mighty Spanish Armada was
attacked, beaten, and scattered by the English fleet, for we saw
[the wrecks of] all those ships lying on the beach.

When we came in sight of the land and of the port above men-
tioned, we rejoiced heartily ; but that indeed did not set us free,
for when we were about some thousand paces from the port,
the Master ordered the anchors to be cast, and gave those on
shore a signal to fetch us off in small boats, because he did
not want to go into the harbour, but to set sail immediately for
France and Rochelle. Thereupon several Englishmen soon came
with boats, and scudded over the impetuous waves in order to
put us and our luggage on shore ; as indeed it came to pass, for
after the Master had been paid the stipulated charge, we all
proceeded towards land, and some of our party were in terror
at seeing themselves in such little boats among such awful

* " Ein sehr grosse ungestiimme und erschrockliche Fortuna."

England as seen by Foreigners. 5

mountains of salt water ; but the Almighty assisted us, so that
we reached the English sea-port of Dover without any accident.
Now you must know that in England it is only the city of
London that is enclosed 5 [by walls] ; all the other places are open.

Dover is a tolerably large and pleasant place and an important Dover.
port of the kingdom of England, 2 lying close to the English sea,
as already said, right opposite to Calais, — which place his
Highness likewise saw, for the weather was very fine and clear —
at a distance of four hours' sail. Dover is very well fortified ;
many large cannon were then lying piled up in the harbour, and
it therefore could not easily be taken by force : besides which,
not far off, several English ships of war ride at anchor to pro-
tect it. The mountains in the vicinity are not very high, but
quite white like chalk, so that they are seen at a distance. Here
the young Baron of Winnenberg, 3 who had been detained at
Canterbury with his father [Philip] the Ambassador of the
Elector Palatine, waiting for a good wind, visited and dined
with his Highness.

After that his Highness took post horses for Gravesend ; * the
baggage, however, was sent on to London, — during which
stages some of the party did not feel themselves quite at ease, b
particularly his Highness, on account of the saddles being in
these parts so small and covered only with bare hide or leather,
and therefore painful and hard to ride upon, and it is difficult,
especially for any one who is corpulent and heavy, to settle
himself comfortably on such small saddles; so his Highness
brought back one with him as a specimen. 5

a " Beschlossen."

b In the first edition the passage is, " aber welcher die Post nicht wol befunden;"
altered in the subsequent editions to " auff welcher Post sich ettliche nicht wol
befunden."

Canterbury.
Sitting-
bourne.

6 England as seen by Foreigners.

The second stage was to Canterbury; 6 the third to Sitting-
bourne, where his Highness slept for the first time in England.
In the morning of the ioth of August the same post carried
Rochester, us as far as Rochester ; from thence nearly half a stage forward
gravesend. to Gravesend. Here, having first dined, a small vessel was
ordered, 7 and [we embarked] upon the river Thames, which is
tolerably broad, and in which there are many swans ; 8 these are
so tame that you can almost touch them, but it is forbidden on
pain of corporal punishment in any way to injure a swan, for
Royalty has them plucked every year, in order to have their
down for court-use. Into this river Thames there sets also
a tide of the sea, which accordingly every six hours flows up
and down. We then sailed towards London. Upon the left-
hand side of the river we passed the beautiful and pleasant royal
Palace of Greenwich, 9 where the Queen moreover is usually
accustomed to receive and to give audience to envoys and am-
bassadors from foreign potentates.

In the evening of the ioth of August (Almighty God be
London, praised and thanked) we arrived safe and well in London ;
where, as his Highness was unknown, he could not at first find
a lodging ; at length, however, we were accommodated" at the
Netherlandish Postmaster's house, called here The Dutch
Post. 10

Now from Emden to London, calculating sea and land, the
distance is usually estimated at 300 English, or 100 German
miles.

On the following day [Aug. 11] his Highness immediately
visited at his residence the royal French Ambassador, Mons r .

a " Seind wir in dess Niderlandifchen Poftmeifters Haufs, die Teutjche Poft
genant, inkehret" (literally, " turned in").

England as seen by Foreigners. y

de Beauvois La Node, 11 whom he took completely by surprise,
for to see his Highness in this place was the last thing to be
expected. His Highness remained with the ambassador for a
few days in order to receive her Majesty's wishes ; in the
meantime he went to see the town and other things.

London is a large, excellent, and mighty city of business,
and the most important in the whole kingdom ; most of the
inhabitants are employed in buying and selling merchandize,
and trading in almost every corner of the world, since the river 12
is most useful and convenient for this purpose, considering that
ships from France, the Netherlands, Sweden, Denmark,
Hamburg, and other kingdoms, come almost up to the city, to
which they convey goods and receive and take away others in
exchange.

It is a very populous city, so that one can scarcely pass along
the streets, on account of the throng.

The inhabitants are magnificently apparelled, and are
extremely proud and overbearing ; and because the greater part,
especially the tradespeople, seldom go into other countries, but
always remain in their houses in the city attending to their
business, they care little for foreigners, but scoff and laugh
at them ; and moreover one dare not oppose them, else the
street-boys and apprentices collect together in immense crowds
and strike to the right and left unmercifully without regard
to person ; and because they are the strongest, one is obliged to
put up with the insult as well as the injury. 13

The women have much more liberty than perhaps in any other
place ; they also know well how to make use of it, for they go
dressed out in exceedingly fine clothes, and give all their attention
to their ruffs and stuffs, 1 * to such a degree indeed, that, as I am

8 England as seen by Foreigners.

informed, many a one does not hesitate to wear velvet in the
streets, which is common with them, whilst at home perhaps they
have not a piece of dry bread. 3 All the English women are
accustomed to wear hats upon their heads, and gowns cut after
the old German fashion — for indeed their descent is from the
Saxons. 15

St. Pauls. In the city there is among others a large and remarkable
church, called St. Paul's, where there are two choirs or churches,
one over the other, but otherwise there is nothing of importance
to be seen in it. 16 There are also many other churches here and
there ; in particular three, where they preach in the French,
Italian, and Dutch tongues.

Royal The Exchange {La Burce) is a palace, where all kinds of

beautiful goods are usually to be found ; and because the city is
very large and populous, the merchants who transact business,
together appoint to meet each other at that place, of whom
several hundreds are constantly to be met with congregated there. 17
The sweet water is preserved in various parts of the city in
large well-built stone cisterns [conduits], to be drawn off by
cocks ; and the poor, labourers [water-bearers] carry it on their
shoulders to the different houses and sell it, in a peculiar kind of
wooden vessels, broad at the bottom, but very narrow at the
top, and bound with iron hoops. 18

On Sunday, the 13th of August, his Highness attended
the French service, and afterwards at mid-day partook of a
magnificent banquet provided for him by the royal French Am-
bassador, Monsieur Beauvois La Node, at which, Besides several

a " Vil auff Kreser unnd anders legen, dergestalt, dass, wie ich bericht, wol eine
auff der Gassen Sammet, der bey ihnen gemein, tragen darff, die daheimbt im
Hauss ettwan das trucken Brot nicht gehaben mag."

England as seen by Foreigners. o

English lords of consequence, the Stadian ambassador' 9 was also
present : but the wine, which comes from France (for there is no
wine-growing in England), did not agree with his Highness, 3 nor
could he bear it ; but the beer, which is of the colour of an old
Alsace wine [hock], was so delicious, that he relished it exceed-
ingly. 20

Over the river at London there is a beautiful long bridge, London Brjdge.
with quite splendid, handsome, and well-built houses, which are
occupied by merchants of consequence. 21 Upon one of the
towers, nearly in the middle of the bridge, are stuck up about
thirty-four heads of persons of distinction, 22 who had in former
times been condemned and beheaded for creating riots and from
other causes.

On the 14th of August his Highness and suite went in Westminster
wherries b to the beautiful and large royal church called West- Abbey '
minster, situated at the end, outside the city, in order to inspect
the same. It is a very large structure, and in particular has a
chapel within it which was built eighty years ago 83 by King
Henry VII, arched over with carved stone, so elegantly wrought
that its equal is not easily to be found : there are inside some
beautiful tombs of deceased Kings and Queens, covered all
over with gilding, and executed in a most beautiful manner.

In front of this chapel, outside in the choir, are many other
monuments of Kings made of marble, of all kinds of curious
-colours ; amongst others is a tomb or shrine with the following
inscription around it : —

"■ " 1st ihren F. G. nicht wol bekommen, noch denselben leiden kb'nnen, aber
das Bier so herlich, als in der Farb eines alten Elsesser Weins, wol zugeschlagen."
b '-'Gundeln" — gondolas.

io England as seen by Foreigners.

" Omnibus insignis virtutum kudibus Heros,
Sanctus Eduardus Confessor rex venerandus,
Quinto die Jan. 24 moriens 1065.
Super sethera scandit sursum corda."

And upon another elevated monument : —

" Segberti Regis Orientalium Sayoni [Saxonum], fundatoris hujus Ecclesia;."

In this choir stands also the chair in which, for several centuries
past, all the Kings and Queens have been crowned : 25 under-
neath lies a large stone, which is said to be the very one upon
which the patriarch Jacob reposed when he saw the angels
ascending and descending a ladder reaching to heaven. In the
same choir was also shown the sword which King Edward III.
is said to have carried and used in battle and war; it is an
immense blade, like a double-handed sword, so heavy that
one can scarcely lift it, and upon it is a wolf of copper, like as
upon the old Wolff sklingen™ together with the four letters
I. N. R. I. In this beautiful church the English Ministers, who
are dressed in white surplices such as the Papists wear, sang
alternately, and the organ played.

Now, because by this time her Majesty had received informa-
tion of his Highness's arrival through the French ambassador,
Monsieur de Beauvois (who was held in high esteem and favour
by her Majesty), she immediately despatched one of her pages
in a coach towards London, in order to fetch his Highness from
thence, and to convey him to the residence of the court at Reading.

His Highness, therefore, on the 16 th of August, accom-
panied by this page of honour, travelled from London in this
coach and with several post horses towards the royal residence.
Previously, however, his Highness had ordered an entire suit of
black velvet to be provided for each of his pages and attendants. »

ING.

England as seen by Foreigners. 1 1

At noon we came to Hounslow, an English village. To- Hounslow.
wards night we reached Maidenhead, a beautiful large place or Maidenhead.
town, but which, like all other English towns, is without walls :
here we were met by the ambassador, Beauvois.

On the morning of [Thursday] the 17th of August, in
company with the said ambassador, we arrived about noon
at Reading, where her Majesty has her court residence in £>ueen Eliza-
England, 27 and we were lodged at the house of the Mayor
of that place : from hence to London is barely thirty-two
miles. Hardly had his Highness undressed and put on other
apparel, when the Earl of Exces [Robert Devereux, Earl of
Essex], one of the most distinguished lords in England, also one
of the Queen's Council, Master of the Horse, and Knight of the
royal Order called the Garter (Lachartiere), visited his Highness
at his lodging, welcomed him in her Majesty's name, and invited
him to take dinner in his, the Earl's, apartments. To which his
Highness, after returning due thanks, was conveyed in a coach,
and was feasted most sumptuously, when the Earl entertained
his Highness with such sweet and enchanting music (which in
all probability belonged to the Queen), that he was highly
astonished at it. After the repast was ended, his Highness was
again accompanied by the same distinguished lord to his
lodging ; but early in the afternoon he was summoned by her
Majesty and fetched by others, and was conducted to the
Queen's own apartments.

Her Majesty was at that time in a somewhat mean room,
surrounded by her principal councillors and ladies in waiting, in
court dresses. His Highness was then introduced by the French
ambassador, and after having made a profound and dutiful
obeisance to her Majesty, was received by her in a very friendly

1 2 England as seen by Foreigners.

and gracious manner, and for some length of time her Majesty
conversed with him on various subjects, and that openly and
aloud, so that any in the apartment might understand. His
Highness's pages, as well as all the rest of us, were allowed to
enter, — nay, even great English lords made way for us and put
us forward that we might the better see the Queen — a thing
indeed which rarely occurs to the attendants of foreign am-
bassadors.

After having again made a low obeisance, his Highness went
to his lodging; and in the afternoon of the 18th of August he
had another audience of her Majesty, on which occasion she
herself made and delivered an appropriate speech, in the presence
of Monsieur de Beauvois, in the French language, which,
together with many others, her Majesty understands and speaks
very well ; and since, as before said, her Majesty held Monsieur
de Beauvois in especial favour, after he had been conversing with
her Majesty very lively and good-humouredly, he so far pre-
vailed upon her that she played very sweetly and skilfully on
her instrument/ 8 the strings of which were of gold and silver.

Yet, notwithstanding that her Majesty was at this time in her
67 th year," seeing that she was chosen Queen on the 16th of No-
vember, 1558, in the 33rd year of her age, and has thus borne
the heavy burthen of ruling a kingdom thirty-four years, she
need not indeed — to judge both from her person and appearance
— yield much to a young girl of sixteen. She has a very dig-
nified, serious, and royal look, and rules her kingdom with great
discretion, in desirable peace, felicity, and in the fear of God.

a This is a mistake: Elizabeth was born Sept. 7th, 1533, consequently was
now only fifty-nine.

England as seen by Foreigners. 1 3

She has, by God's help and assistance, known well how to meet her
enemies hitherto : witness that mighty Spanish Armada, 29 which
a few years ago was scattered between Dover and Calais, and
beaten by the English, an enemy of inferior force compared with
it. Hence she frequently uses this motto : Si Deus pro nobis,
quis contra nosP* which she also did on this occasion when the
discourse happened to turn upon that same Spanish defeat.

After a long conversation his Highness took humble leave
of her Majesty, and departed to his lodging, where in the evening
he gave a sumptuous banquet and feast to the aforesaid Earl of
Essex, the French ambassador, Beauvois, and other distin-
guished lords of high rank.

This place Reading is a pleasant and rather pretty town ;
nevertheless it is like a market town, without gates or walls,
as in fact are all other English towns, which, although they have
walls in some parts, are neither fortified nor defenfible ; for
what was fortified and strong has long ago been entirely razed
and destroyed, in order that the subjects, who are naturally
inclined to sedition, should in no case find an opportunity to
rebel and rise up against the government.

The lords and pages of the royal court have a stately, noble
air, but dress more after the French fashion, only that they
wear short cloaks, and sometimes Spanish caps, and not such
broad hats as the French : they keep many retainers, for the
most part portly and good-looking men who go without cloaks,
but have only jerkins of their lord's colour and bearing his arms
rolled up and buckled behind ; they likewise have the same
arms upon their sleeves, so that they may be distinguished. 30

a " If God be for us, who can be against us?" — Rom. viii. 31.

1 4 England as seen by Foreigners.

And they are kept very strict, for if indeed they wish to run
away, they cannot, because no Englishman is allowed to go out
of the kingdom without a passport ; wherefore other nations have
a saying that " England is a paradise for women, a prison for
servants, and a hell or purgatory for horses," 31 — for the females
have great liberty and are almost like masters, whilst the poor
horses are worked very hard. The country in the vicinity of
the royal court is for the most part flat and sandy, and because
few succeed in finding accommodation at an inn, they erect
tents under which they sojourn, thus presenting the appearance
of an encampment.

When the Queen breaks up her court, with the intention of
visiting another place, there commonly follow more than 300
carts {K'drcli) laden with bag and baggage ; for you must know
that in England, besides coaches, they use no waggons for the
goods, but have only two-wheeled carts, which however are so
large that they carry quite as much as waggons, and as many as
five or six strong horses draw them. 32

But since on the 1 9th of August her Majesty had left Read-
ing with her court, his Highness, in company with the French
ambassador, Beauvois, took his departure again towards London,
Windsor, and in the evening arrived at Windsor, an English town twelve
miles from Reading.

It had pleased her Majesty to depute an old distinguished
English lord to attend his Highness, and she had commissioned
and directed him not only to show his Highness the splendid
royal Castle at Windsor, but also to amuse him by the way with
shooting and hunting red deer ; for you must know that in the
vicinity of this same place Windsor, there are upwards of sixty
parks which are full of game of various kinds, and they are so

England as seen by Foreigners. i

.•>

contiguous, that in order to have a glorious and royal sport
the animals can be driven out of one inclosure into another, and
so on ; all which inclosures are encompassed by fences

And thus it happened : the huntsmen who had been ordered
for the occasion, and who live in splendid separate lodges in
these parks, made some capital sport for his Highness. In the
first inclosure his Highness shot off the leg of a fallow-deer, and
the dogs soon after caught the animal. In the second, they
chased a stag for a long time backwards and forwards with par-
ticularly good hounds, over an extensive and delightful plain ;
at length his Highness shot him in front with an English cross-
bow, and this deer the dogs finally worried and caught. In the
third, the greyhounds chased a deer, but much too soon, for they
caught it directly, even before it could get out into the open
plain. These three stags were brought to Windsor and presented
to his Highness ; one of them was taken to his lodging, and
sent as a present to the aforesaid Mons r . de Beauvois, the French
ambassador.

The next day being Sunday the 20th of August, his Highness
was conducted by the English deputy to the magnificent and
glorious Palace or Castle [of Windsor.] 33

This Castle stands upon a knoll or hill ; in the outer or first
court there is a very beautiful and immensely large church, with
a flat even roof, covered with lead, as is common with all churches
in this kingdom. In this church his Highness listened for more
than an hour to the beautiful music, the usual ceremonies, and
the English sermon. The music, especially the organ, was ex-
quisitely played ; for at times you could hear the sound of
cornets, flutes, then fifes and other instruments ; and there was
likewise a little boy who sang so sweetly amongst it all, and

1 6 England as seen by Foreigners.

threw such a charm over the music with his little tongue/ that
it was really wonderful to listen to him. In short, their
ceremonies were very similar to the Papists, as above mentioned,
with singing and all the rest. After the music, 34 which lasted a
long time, had ended, a minister or preacher ascended the
pulpit and preached in English ; and soon afterwards, it being
noon, his Highness went to dinner.

In the before-named outer court seventeen poor knights, who
have done good service in war and battle, either by sea or land,
have their dwellings: they have further, as a remuneration
and benefice, in addition to their lodgings, each a hundred
crowns a year to spend, which is given by the Queen, together
with a suit of clothes.

In the said church there hang on both sides the shields, helmets,
and banners of the knights of the royal order called the Garter
{La Chartiere), which is a highly esteemed order, and which not
many can obtain. 35 And when a person is received into this
order, he is, as it were, expected to make some present to these
said old and poor knights. His Highness invited some of them
to be his guests both at dinner and supper.

After dinner his Highness went with the English and French
deputies and the ambassador to the royal Castle of Windsor, in
order to inspect it and all that was worth seeing therein. And
in truth it is a right royal and splendid structure, built, from its
very foundation up to the roof, entirely of freestone, notwith-
standing that this is not very often to be met with in this
country, and cannot be procured without enormous and incal-

a " Es sang auch ein kleines Knablein so lieblich darein, und colorirt dermassen
mit seinem Ziinglein, dass es wundersam zuhoren."

England as seen by Foreigners. 1 7

culable expense ; it covers a large area, and the innermost court
is quadrangular, of a bow-fhot in length and width ; in the midst
of it is a curiously wrought fountain, all of lead, several fathoms
high : in fact, all the roofs are covered entirely with lead, which
induced his Highness 3 to cut his name in the lead upon the
highest tower. 3e After these, we were shown very beautiful
royal bed-hangings and tapestries of gold and fine silk ; likewise
a genuine unicorn 37 [horn], and similar costly things, that can
hardly be sufficiently well described.

When his Highness had seen all these, and had spent a long
time in doing so, he drove down to the University of that
place [Eton College], wherein, however, there was nothing e ton college.
particular to be seen.

The next day, August 21st, he departed from Windsor, and
by the way had pleasant pastime in the parks with the game :
in one of the parks his Highness shot two fallow deer, one
with a gun, the other with an English crossbow ; the latter deer
we were obliged to follow a very long while, until at length a
stray track or blood-hound, b as they are called, by its wonderful
quality and peculiar nature, singled out the deer from several
hundred others, and pursued it so long, till at last the wounded
deer was found on one side of a brook, and the dog, quite
exhausted, on the other ; and the stag, which could go no farther,
was taken by huntsmen, and the hound feasted with its blood.

After this glorious sport, we partook of some cold meat in a
fine English farm-house, and in the afternoon his Highness was

a " Darumb ihre F. G. dero Namen auffden hochsten Thurn selbst in Bley
gegraben."

b " Ein ledig lauffender Lait: oder Bluthundt."

Court.

i 8 England as seen by Foreigners.

conducted to see the grand and truly beautiful royal Palace called

Hampton Hampton Court.

Now this is the most splendid and most magnificent royal
Palace of any that may be found in England — or, indeed, in
any other kingdom. 38 It comprises ten different large courts,
and as many separate royal or princely residences, but all con-
nected; together with many beautiful gardens both for pleasure
and ornament — some planted with nothing but rosemary ;
others laid out with various other plants, which are trained,
intertwined, and trimmed in so wonderful a manner, and in such
extraordinary shapes, that the like could not easily be found. 39
In short, all the apartments and rooms in this immensely large
structure are hung with rich tapestry, of pure gold and fine silk,
so exceedingly beautiful and royally ornamented that it would
hardly be possible to find more magnificent things of the kind in
any other place. In particular, there is one apartment belonging
to the Queen, in which she is accustomed to sit in state, costly
beyond everything ; the tapestries are garnished with gold, pearls,
and precious stones — one tablecover alone is valued at above
fifty thousand crowns — not to mention the royal throne, which
is studded with very large diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and the
like, that glitter among other precious stones and pearls as the
sun among the stars.

Many of the splendid large rooms are embellished with
masterly paintings, writing-tables inlaid with mother-of-pearl,
organs, and musical instruments, which her Majefty is particularly
fond of. Among other things to be seen there, are life-like
portraits of the wild man and woman whom Martin Forbisser
[Frobisher] the English captain, took in his voyage to the New
World, and brought alive to England. 40

England as seen by Foreigners. i o

In the middle of the first and principal court stands a
splendid high and massy fountain, 4 ' with an ingenious water-
work, by which you can, if you like, make the water play upon
the ladies and others who are standing by, and give them a
thorough wetting.

Now, as we have already said, the royal castle at Windsor is
constructed entirely of free-stone, so is this beautiful Palace
wholly built of brick. His Highness having taken a drink in
the garden, in company with the keeper of the Palace, who
was a nobleman, took the road again towards London, which
place we did not reach till quite late, when it was already
pitch dark : the distance from Windsor to London being about
twenty-two English miles.

As we stayed in London the 22nd and also the 23rd of
August, his Highness was shown the Tower of London, as well The Towzr.
as the Mint and the Armoury therein, which however is not
indeed to be compared with the German armouries, for, although
there are many fine cannon in it, yet they are full of dust, and
stand about in the greatest disorder. At the top of the
armoury there is an unspeakable number of arrows, which is a
sufficient proof that the English used such things in battle in
former times. In the same place his Highness was shown the
long barrel and stock" which belonged to the last King Henry
[VIII. J, father of her present Majesty ; this he is said to have
carried on his saddle, and it may be compared with a musket ;
also his lance or spear, which a man has enough to do to lift.
In this tower also, but in separate small houses made of wood,
are kept six lions and lionesses, 42 two of them upwards of a

Langes Rohr und Faustling. 1

20 England as seen by Foreigners.

hundred years old. Not far from these is also a lean, ugly
wolf, which is the only one in England ; on this account it is
kept by the Queen — and indeed there are no others in the
whole kingdom, if we except Scotland, where there are a great
number, and that kingdom is only made distinct from England
by the water which divides them. Here it was that one of his
Highness's subjects, Nicholas Loz von Cossdnantx (Cossevaulx),
from the principality of Ericurt (Elicourt), presented himself to
his Highness. He was by trade a gunsmith, and had married
and settled in London.

Now, as his Highness was obliged to wait some time longer
for her Majesty's declaration and answer, in the meantime he
proceeded, on the 2.5th of August, to visit the two celebrated
Universities of Oxford and Cambridge.
uxbridge. We first came to Uxbridge, a beautiful large market town, at

which we slept that night ; here his Highness was shown a sheep
with five legs.
stokenchurch. On the 26th of August, at noon, we arrived at Stokenchurch,
Oxfoed. a nd in the evening at Oxford. 43 His Highness the same evening

sent to inform the Chancellor of the University (for whom he
had a letter) of his arrival. He, however, excused himself at
the time, as he could not, on account of business, wait upon his
Highness until the following morning ; but he sent two young
doctors, who welcomed his Highness in his name and invited
him to dinner the next day ; he accordingly went and dined
in the principal College, where the Chancellor 44 resided.

In the morning of the 27th of August, the Chancellor visited
his Highness in state, preceded by four bedells — important
personages with long silver staves, such as they carry in Switzer-
land before the mayor or chief magistrate — welcomed his High-

England as seen by Foreigners. 2 i

ness with great distinction, and even before dinner conducted
him to view some of the colleges; they afterwards dined
together. In the afternoon his Highness inspected all the re-
maining colleges, in which indeed there was nothing particular
to notice; but if any good-natured reader takes an interest in
those things that are to be met with in this said place, as to
their age, by whom and also to what purpose they were founded,
he may make himself acquainted with them in the Latin a and
German languages as hereafter follows : 45 —

" Brief and circumstantial Account of the University of
Oxford in England, as well as of Foundations and the Colleges
at present appertaining to it : together with their Arms and the
number of Students who derive their maintenance out of the
common revenues. Dedicated to the most worshipful lord and
father in God, John Whitgift, Archbishop of Canterbury.

The Oxford High School, or University as it is generally University.
called, was founded by the pious benevolence of that devout
King of England, Alfred (as some, and these not mean, historians
assert), in the year 872. Others, however, trace its origin from
the building of the city, and state that it was established by King
Mempritius in b.c. 1015, 40 and that King Vortigern, in a.d. 474,
reinstituted and restored it. But let this workshop or mother
of liberal arts and studies have been established when it may, it is
at present without any doubt one of the most distinguished and
renowned, alike whether you consider the magnificence of the
stately buildings, the dignity of the students, or its pleasant and
wholesome situation. At this date, viz. 1592 and the 34th year

The Latin account of Oxford is wanting in all the three editions of the
work in the British Museum.

22 England as seen by Foreigners.

University
College.

Balliol.

of the reign of our most gracious Queen Elizabeth, it comprises
1 6 colleges and foundations, which maintain students out of the
common revenues ;. and 8 halls or hostels, wherein the students
live out of their own purses or those of their relatives or
friends.

Alfred, the pious King of England, in a.d. 872 and in the
2nd year of his reign, founded a gymnasium or school, which
was called the Great Hall or University College, and appointed
numerous learned and distinguished persons to instruct therein.
Subsequently it almost fell into ruins, until William the arch-
deacon [William of Durham] exerted himself in its behalf,
established it anew, and endowed it so liberally as to enable it
to maintain 6 persons, the senior of whom was to be the prin-
cipal and master, and a scholar called a bible-clerk. This was
in 1 2 17 (17 King John).* 7 But this number decreased so much
that instead of 6, it came to only 3 ; but whether this happened
from the dearness of provisions or loss of income, or from both
causes together, is not known. Walter Skirlaw, Archdeacon
[Bishop] of Durham, was induced in the time of King Henry
IV. to add 3 others, which pious example was followed by
Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, founding 3 more, so
that at this day there are maintained in this very ancient College
one master, 8 fellows, and one bible-clerk.

This College was founded by John de Balliol, [father of John
de Balliol] King of Scotland, and named after him, in the year
1263 (46 Hen. III). His Queen [Lady] Dervorgille, en-
dowed it also with a yearly income ; but this, owing to the
unhappy times, was not enjoyed many years, although the
college had other patrons and supporters, such as [Sir] Philip
Somerville and his wife, the Lady Ella de Longespee [Countess

England as seen by Foreigners. 2 \

of Warwick], Richard de Hunsingore, Sir William Felton,
Hugo of Vienna [Hugh de Wychenbroke or Wyer], Mr.
William Hammond of Guildford, who have provided this Col-
lege with such yearly revenues as to support a master who is at
the head of the others ; but as no certain number is fixed beyond
those who are appointed to the College, it is permitted to increase
or lessen them according to the extent of the income. At the
present time there are resident there 10 fellows, 1 1 scholars,
besides 2 Worcester scholars, appointed by Dr. Bell, the late
Bishop of Worcester.

Walter de Merton, formerly Chancellor of England and Merton.
Councillor to King Edward I, before he became Bishop of
Rochester founded in the year 1264 (47 Hen. III.) Merton
College, at Maldon in the county of Surrey, where it was at
first established, and from thence, in the year 1274 (1 Edw.
I.), removed it to Oxford, where it now is, and endowed it with
ample revenues. At present it has a superintendent called a
warden ; as for the others, there is, as in the preceding college,
no fixed number ; but it has now 23 fellows, 2 chaplains, 2
clerks, who are supported out of the college funds. At an
early period John Willyot, Doctor of Divinity, who was once
of this college and subsequently Chancellor of Exeter, added
1 2 scholars to the foundation, of whom 9 have to attend upon
the one [9] senior fellows, who choose them ; they are therefore
called Postmasters; — the other 3 are the servitors to all, and
these 3 are selected by their rector, for such a person is annually
chosen and placed over the scholars.

Walter de Stapledon, Bishop of Exeter, founded Exeter Exeter.
College in 13 16 (9 Edw. II.) and placed therein 13 persons,
of whom he directed that one be chosen yearly, placed at the head

24 England as seen by Foreigners.

of the others, and called rector. John Polyng, Bishop of Salisbury,
and Edmund de la Beche, in 1352 appointed in addition 2
others, to be taken from the diocese of Salisbury ; to which
number [Sir] William Petre, in the year 1566, added not only 8
fellows, but also by an especial act of benevolence almost doubled
the annual income, which fell to the scholars of the old foun-
dation, and thus placed them on an equality with those of his
own appointment. And as formerly both old and young received
an unequal portion, he, together with Anne his wife, his son
John, and other benevolent persons, endowed it with a further
sum of £200, by which the inequality was removed ; so that the
entire number of those who belong to the college is one rector,
22 fellows, and one bible-clerk or bible-reader.
oriel. Edward II, King of England, was the founder of St. Mary's
Hall, called Oriel College, in the year 1323 and 16th of his
reign [1324J. In this, by virtue of the first foundation, a provost
and 10 fellows were appointed, to which number Richard Dudley
added 4 ; John Carpenter [Bishop of Worcester], 2 ; William
Smyth [Bishop of Lincoln, and Founder of Brasenose College], 2.
At the present time 1 8 fellows besides the provost are entertained
therein. The said Dudley also originated another foundation,
whereby 1 2 poor scholars whom the heads of the College might
deem worthy should be assisted. Further, other benevolent
persons of this College have contributed towards it ; as Adam
de Brom the 1st Provost; and John Chapman, a citizen of
London, has recently appointed a foundation of £10 annually
to be divided equally between two students in theology of the
College under 30 years of age.
qoesn's Robert de Eglesfeld, B.D., and Chaplain to Philippa the
wife of Edward III, founded in the year 1340 (14 Edw. III.)

College.

England as seen by Foreigners. 25

Queen's College ; and since there was no certain number of
persons named, an arrangement was made that many or few
should be admitted according to the means of the College — yet
there were never more than 1 2 fellows : their superior, who is
at the head of all, fellows as well as scholars, is called the provost.
Edmund Grindal, late Archbishop of Canterbury, added 1 fellow
and 2 scholars, for whose maintenance he appointed a yearly in-
come of £20, in addition to £100 he had in his lifetime given to
the College. Moreover, when at the point of death he left to the
said College, for the same purpose, besides silver plate, a quantity
of books and £10 for the purchase of chains to be fastened to
them. But it attained to no certain position until Queen Eliza-
beth confirmed it by letters patent, with the sanction and approval
of all three estates of the realm.

William of Wy keham, Bishop of Winchester, High Chancellor New College.
of England, built a stately College, called New College, in the
year 1375 (49 Edw. III.)/ an <i appointed thereto a superintendent
who is termed guardian or warden, 70 fellows and scholars, 10
chaplains, 3 clerks, 1 6 choristers with a master ; all to receive
their maintenance from the revenues of the college. Likewise
he erected in the south suburb of Winchester another noble
College, from which the best and most proficient of the students
were to be transferred to the New College, in the place of those
who should leave it. There are now in this Winchester College,
1 warden (as he is called), 10 fellows, 2 schoolmasters, and 70
scholars, together with several others who are very handsomely
maintained according to the intentions of the founder.

Richard Flemming, Bishop of Lincoln, laid the foundation of Lincoln.

* License was obtained to found the College in 1379 (3 Ric. II.) — Wood.

All Souls.

Divinity

School and
Library.

26 England as seen by Foreigners.

Lincoln College in 1420 (8 Hen. V.), a and established therein a
rector, 7 fellows, and 2 chaplains. Afterwards, viz. in 1479
(19 Edw. IV.), Thomas Rotheram [alias Scot], who was
also Bishop of Lincoln, finished this College, and added 5
fellows to the previous number. John [Edward] Darby, for-
merly a fellow of this College and afterwards Archdeacon of Stow
in the diocese of Lincoln, in the year 1537 (29 Hen. VIII.), b in-
creased it by another foundation to afford maintenance for as
many as 3 fellows ; so that now it has 1 rector, 1 5 fellows, and
2 chaplains. To these may also be added 4 scholars, for whose
sustenance Joanna Trapps, the widow of a citizen and goldsmith
of London, bequeathed an annual stipend about the year 1570
(i2Eliz.) c

Henry Chichele, Archbishop of Canterbury, erected in the
year 1437 (15 Hen. V.) d the College of All Souls, and placed on
the foundation one warden and 40 fellows, 24 of whom were
to receive instruction in divinity, the rest in the laws : he so
strictly directed that this number should be kept to and neither
increased nor diminished, that vacancies must be filled up at least
once a year. There are, however, besides the warden and fellows,
2 chaplains, 3 clerks, and 6 choristers or singing boys supported
out of the provision of the founder.

Humphrey, surnamed the Good, Duke of Gloucester, a lover
of the liberal arts, in addition to his other manifold good deeds,
erected a very fine and noble School for Divinity Students, and
established in the upper part a Library, which he furnished with
1 29 very choice books, procured from Italy at great cost.

■ 1427 (6 Hen. VI.)-
i In 1568. — Wood.

-Wood.

b 1535. — Chalmers.
d 16 Hen. VI.

England as seen by Foreigners. 27

William of Waynfleet, Bishop of Winchester, built in the Magdalen
year 1459 (37 Hen. VI.) a College — a magnificent structure, well CoLLEGE -
situated, and with fine pleasant groves and walks — and dedicated
the same to St. Magdalen. He established therein a president,
37 fellows, 30 scholars called demies, 4 chaplains, 8 clerks, and
16 choristers. After this Thomas [John] Ingledew, the founder's
chaplain, appointed 2 fellows ; and another person by name
[John] Forman added 1 ; thus the number of 40 fellows was
completed. For all these as well as the others, there are supported
out of the College revenues, two Professors of Divinity and
Philosophy, two Grammar masters, and 1 master for the choristers.
There are, indeed, other lecturers for the College, but as these
are fellows of it, they need not be separately enumerated.

In order that learning and the liberal arts might be still further Brasenose.
encouraged, William Smyth, Bishop of Lincoln, in the year 1 513
(5 Hen. VIII.) founded the College of Brasenose. He dying,
however, when it was barely begun, [Sir] Richard Sutton, knight,
proceeded to complete it, and provided for a superintendent
called the principal, with 1 2 fellows, partly with the funds of
the before-named Smyth, but partly with his own. Afterwards
7 more fellows, nearly all of whom had his particular founder,
were added to the former number ; so that therefore the number
of fellows of the said college became 19. Further, 21 scholars
were appointed, bearing various names after those of their
founders. Thus two were called Oglanders, after Mr. Ogle ;
6 Clemmondines, after Mr. Claymond ; and 13 Nowellians,
after Mr. Alexander Nowell, the Dean of St. Paul's, a worthy
and pious old man.

Richard Fox, Bishop of Winchester, instituted this College, Corpus Christi.
which has 30 scholars, 2 chaplains, 2 clerks, and 2 choristers,

28 England as seen by Foreigners.

together with a president. By the especial generosity of Hugh
Oldham, Bishop of Exeter, it was adorned with new buildings
and endowed with additional revenues about the time of its
foundation — viz. in 1 516 (8 Henry VIII. late King of England,
France, and Ireland, Defender of the Faith, &c. of benign
Christian memory.) In this, however, as in all the other Col-
leges of this University, there are numerous servitors and servants
maintained, who are paid by the Colleges, and whose duty it is to
wait on the president in particular, and thewhole college in general.

Christ Church. Thomas Wolsey, Cardinal and Archbishop of York, laid the
foundation of this magnificent College, which stands on the site
of the Priory of St. Frideswide. But King Henry VIII. in the
year 1546, the 38th of his reign, having, for the use and profit
of this work splendidly and richly endowed it with Peckwater's
Inn and Canterbury Hall, which had been founded by Simon
Islip, Archbishop of Canterbury, gave the institution the name
of Christ College or Church. At the present time, by virtue
of his order, there are maintained 1 dean, 8 canons, 100
students (20 of divinity, 20 of higher branches of philosophy,
20 of philosophy, 20 upper pupils, 20 other pupils). Besides
this, he founded a choir of 4 chaplains and 1 6 choristers, 8 of
whom are men, and 8 boys. And in addition is a charity, out
of which by the provision of our most gracious Queen Eliza-
beth, 24 persons have £6 yearly. Finally, letters patent have
been obtained, by virtue of which all the general servants of
the church, together with 3 Royal Professors — viz. of
Divinity, and of the Hebrew and Greek languages, receive a
salary of £40.

tkinity. Whereas Thomas of Hatfield, Bishop of Durham, originally

founded Durham College for the monks of Durham — Sir

England as seen by Foreigners. 29

Thomas Pope adorned it with new buildings, and otherwise
richly endowed it for the purpose of liberal studies, giving it
also a new name, viz. the College of the eternal and undivided
Trinity. This was in 1556 (4 Mary). The head of this
College is called president, and has under him 12 fellows and
12 scholars. But since Lady Pawlet, the wife [widow re-
married] of the founder is yet living, who besides possessing
abundant wealth is favourably disposed to the promotion of
learning, there are good hopes that she will shortly improve and
endow this College much more handsomely.

Moreover, about the time of its foundation, Queen Mary Public Schools.
erected entirely some noble and excellent Public Schools in this
University, in which the scholars are accustomed to perform
their public exercises.

Whereas at first Henry Chichele, Archbishop of Canterbury, St. John's
founded a College to the honour of St. Bernard, Thomas OLLEGE -
White, knight and citizen of London, instituted it anew,
dedicated it to St. John the Forerunner, and endowed it with
so splendid an income as to enable it to bear nearly all the
expenses, notwithstanding a president, 50 fellows, 3 chaplains,
4 clerks, and 6 choristers are maintained therein. This pro-
vision was made by the founder in the year 1557 (5 Mary).
But the College has likewise been endowed by Mr. [Walter]
Fish ; and Dr. [John] Case, lately a fellow of this College, has
bequeathed to it £100.

Hugh Price [or Ap Rice], Doctor of the Civil Law, also in Jesus.
the year 1572 (14 Eliz.) laid the foundation of a new College
in honour of our Lord Jesus, and provided it with a yearly
revenue. But as the work is not yet completed, there are
neither fellows nor scholars placed there at present. 4

. 43

30 England as seen by Foreigners.

Thus, then, the University of Oxford has these 16 mag-
nificent Colleges and foundations, together with 8 other Halls
besides, which have no particular revenues, but all are especially-
famous inns for study. And in truth it received a happy be-
ginning under King Alfred; but it has been brought to this
perfection by the continued benefactions of women as well as
men, and by the especial blessing of God, until at length it has
reached to this most happy reign of Queen Elizabeth, and has
become renowned throughout the whole world as a true and
right fruitful mother of studies and of learned men. May the
Almighty bestow his favours upon it, so that its name, having
been famous for so many centuries, may likewise from hence-
forth prosper and flourish more and more to its honour ! 40
Written by Simon Bibeus."*

Between London and Oxford the country is in some places
very fertile, in others very boggy and mossy ; and such im-
mense numbers of sheep are bred on it round about that it is
astonishing. There is besides a superabundance of fine oxen
and other good cattle.

Now, because the dinner and viewing the Colleges occupied a
tolerably long time, and the coachmen 5 and post horses were
also quite tired out and could go no further, and no others
could be procured that evening even at double the cost, his
Highness was therefore compelled to remain there most un-
willingly.

Without reckoning the Colleges, Oxford is not much larger
than Miimppelgart (Montbeliard) ; for the colleges cover an

" That is, the account of the Colleges at Oxford.

b In the original " die Gutschen und Postpferdte," the coathes, Sec.

England as seen by Foreigners. 3 1

immense area ; the town, however, on account of its dilapidated
towers and walls, appears as though it had been in former times
a defensible, strong, and fortified place ; but this is no longer
the case, for at present the defences are razed or falling to decay :
for the rest, it is situated in a delightful spot, and is on account
of the streets much prettier and more pleasant than Cambridge.

From London to Oxford the distance is forty-two English
miles.

As Captain Saiges a was at this time very ill with fever,
his Highness assigned to him his groom Gerson, with whom
the sick man rode back again to London, in order to be purged
and cured there. His Highness, however, departed early that
same morning, August 28th, and took the road towards Cam-
bridge.

On the road we passed through a villainous, boggy, and wild
country, and several times missed our way, because the country
thereabouts is very little inhabited, and is nearly a waste ; and
there is one spot in particular where the mud is so deep, that in
my opinion it would scarcely be possible to pass with a coach in
winter or in rainy weather.

About mid-day we came upon a fertile country, where there
were little low hillocks, and a fine breed of splendid large oxen,
and countless numbers of sheep : the peasants dwell in small
huts, and pile up their produce out of doors in heaps, and so
high that you cannot see their houses.

At noon his Highness dined at a pleasant village called winslow.
Winslow, and towards dark we came to Bedford. Bedford.

Between these two places there is for the most part a sandy

a One of the Duke's retinue.

32 England as seen by Foreigners.

plain or heath, on which are a great number of wild rabbits,
which are not in enclosures, but run free, so that you see fifty or
sixty of them together, of all colours ; but they scamper off like
the wind into their burrows. In these parts they likewise catch
wild-cats (Ruder) and pole-cats, and various kinds of birds of
prey, which do much injury to the rabbits ; on this account they
hang them on a gallows, as they do wolves, but first strip off
their skins.
gamlingay. On the 28th of August/ we arrived at Gamlingay, and had
Cambridge, dinner there, and in the evening came to Cambridge, which is
distant from Oxford fifty-five miles. This is a tolerably pleasant
town, larger than Oxford, and the surrounding country is very
fertile and well cultivated. 50 His Highness announced his
arrival that same evening to the Vice Chancellor 51 of the Univer-
sity, for whom he had a letter. He almost immediately waited
upon his Highness and received him with due courtesy ; and as
there was yet time, they proceeded first to see the beautiful royal
chapel, which is most artistically built of free-stone, with an
arched roof, and so highly ornamented that it is well worth
seeing ; it can hardly indeed be called a chapel, but is more like
a magnificent and beautiful church, on account of its size and
immense extent : it has a tower at each corner ; the flat roof on
the top is covered with lead, as are nearly all the principal
churches in England.

His Highness afterwards, the very same evening, inspected
several large and beautifully-built colleges ; but those, and each
in particular, with the names by whom, and at what period, and

" The author seems at fault here as to the date.

England as seen by Foreigners. 33

to what intent they were founded, are set down in the Latin 3
and German languages as follows: —

" A concise and particular Account, in which not only is de-
scribed the University of Cambridge in England, but also the
Colleges and Foundations there at this present time, together
with their Arms and the number of Students who derive their
maintenance therefrom, are declared and represented.

Dedicated to the most honourable lord, John [Whitgift],
Archbishop of Canterbury, Primate and Metropolitan of all
England, the distinguished and wise councillor of our most
gracious Queen Elizabeth.

Cantaber, a Spaniard, in the time of Gurguntius, the son of University.
Belinus, King of Britain, a.m. 3588 and b.c. 375 (as affirmed
by the principal historians), 52 established this fine and magnificent
University of Cambridge, and provided it with learned persons :
afterwards, Sigebert [or Sebert], King of the East Angles, in the
year 636 restored it when it was about going to ruin again.
At the present time, viz. 1592 (for it has formerly undergone
many vicissitudes and misfortunes), it is under the reign of Eliza-
beth, Queen of England and Ireland, right flourishing, and has
a great number of students, who are maintained in 1 5 wealthy
and stately colleges.

And here, rather than this page should remain blank, I have felt Westminster
it to be not inopportune if I notice the foundation of the collegiate
church of St. Peter at Westminster, accomplished by the above-
mentioned Queen in 1560. Thus it has come to pass that there
are maintained on this foundation 1 dean, 12 prebendaries, 12

a The Latin description of Cambridge is printed on a folio single sheet, and
has the arms of the several colleges in the margin. In all probability this was
also the form of the original.

College.

34 England as seen by Foreigners.

almsmen, a schoolmaster, an under master, 40 scholars who are
termed Queen's Scholars and in course of time will be preferred
to the Universities, 6 ministers, 1 organist, 12 cantors, and 10
choristers.
peter House. This college was founded by Hugh de Balsham, the nth
Bishop of Ely, in honour of St. Peter, in 1280 (9 Edw. I.) a for
the maintenance of 1 master, 13 fellows, 2 bible-clerks, and 8
poor scholars ; this number to be increased or diminished according
to the extent of the annual income and as provisions might be
cheap or dear. The property of the college has however in
course of time been improved and augmented by the generosity
of other persons, so that 1 o bible-clerks have been added to the
number. Indeed, Edward North, a brave and pious English
baron, founded 6 ; three were added by Mr. Henry Wilshaw,
B.D., one was appointed by the most reverend father John
Whitgift, lord Archbishop of Canterbury. Besides which, An-
drew Perne, the late Dean of Ely, founded a fellowship, and to
the other benefits conferred on this University, appointed to the
College also 3 bible-clerks and one librarian. Furthermore,
Lady Mary Ramsey, a mirror and pattern of a woman, ordained
a yearly pension of £40 for the maintenance of two fellows and
4 bible-clerks.
ClarsHall. Clare Hall was originally founded in 1326 (19 Edw. II.) by
Richard Badew, at that time Chancellor of the University, and
was at first called University Hall. It was afterwards surrendered
by Walter Thaxted, Master of the said Hall (with the consent
of Richard the founder) to the Lady Elizabeth de Burgh,
Countess of Ulster, who, having obtained the licence of King

The year 1257 has also been assigned as the date of foundation.

England as seen by Foreigners. 35

Edward III. increased the number and founded it as a college,
called Clare Hall. At present there are maintained according
to the purport of this foundation 10 fellows, with 3 others
called supernumeraries, and 40 scholars, 20 of whom derive
their support from the benevolence of the founder, the other
20 owe it partly to the generosity of Edward Leedes, Doctor of
Laws, and recently master of this college, and partly to the
revenues of the Hall. It has moreover many and various kinds
of servitors and servants, as are to be seen in the other colleges
of this University, who are maintained at the common charge
and expense of the colleges.

Mary de St. Paul, wife of Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pem- pembsoke
broke, founded, with the assent of her kinsman King Edward III,
Mary de Valentia or Pembroke Hall, in the year 1343 (17
Edw. III.) The number of persons she did not fix, but left
it to the master and fellows to increase or lessen it at their dis-
cretion. At this time 1 master, 17 fellows, and 6 bible-clerks
live there, and this is agreeably to the old foundation. Sub-
sequently others followed, so that the college became more
wealthy. Edmund Grindal, recently Archbishop of Canterbury,
added one fellow and 2 scholars, and likewise augmented their
library and funds, appointing also a salary for the professor of
Greek. So also other scholars were added : one by Jane the
wife of Richard Coxe, Bishop of Ely, and 7 by Thomas Watts,
D.D., besides a gift of books valued at £40. Mr. Mar-
shall, who was once the servitor of the above-mentioned arch-
bishop, has founded one. In addition, 4 others may yet be
counted, who receive their maintenance out of the revenues of
the new building, called le Ostle.

This College, which is usually called the foundation of St. corpus Chmsti.

36 England as seen by Foreigners.

Benedict [Benet] from the adjoining church, was founded and
erected by the brethren of the gilds of Corpus Christi and of
the Virgin Mary at Cambridge, (Henry, Duke of Lancaster
being at that time alderman of this gild of Corpus Christi,) and
it took the name of the College of Corpus Christi and the Blessed
Mary in the year 1344 (18 Edw. III.) The number of persons
who were to be admitted to the College was not fixed, but was
regulated according to its revenues. At present there are main-
tained from the income of the College (which income is increased
by the liberality of others), 1 master, 12 fellows, 30 scholars,
besides inferior servants, of whom 15 scholars and 2 fellows
were appointed by Matthew Parker, lately Archbishop of Can-
terbury, who was educated in this college ; he also bequeathed
thereto silver-gilt plate, besides being a great benefactor to the
college. All the rest have their maintenance partly from the
first foundation, and partly acquired from the kindness of others.
Trinity Hall. This College was originally nothing but a hostel for students
who lived at their own expense ; it was acquired by John
Crowden [or Craudene], then Prior of Ely, as a place of study
for his monks. Afterwards William Bateman, Bishop of Nor-
wich, obtained it from the monks in exchange for certain rectories,
transforming it into a college for students of the law, and de-
dicating it to the Holy Trinity of Norwich, with a perpetual
provision for the students. This happened in the year 1347
(21 Edw. III. as King of England and 8 of France). The
said college was to have maintained by virtue of the first foun-
dation 1 master, 20 fellows, and 3 scholars ; but as the founder
was unexpectedly overtaken by death, it had no more than 1
master, 3 fellows, and 3 scholars left, whereas it has increased to
such a degree by the benevolence of other persons that at present

England as seen by Foreigners. 37

a master, 1 1 fellows, and 8 under-scholars receive a stipend
from the college for their daily sustenance. To these may be
added four scholars, together with 2 others of inferior grade,
who have been appointed thereto by Matthew [Parker], Arch-
bishop of Canterbury, Gabriel Dun, Henry Harvey, and
Humphrey Busby.

Edmund de Gonvile, in the year 1348 (22 Edw. III.), ConviLEand
founded this college for a master and 4 fellows, named it Gon-
ville Hall,, and dedicated it to the Annunciation of the Blessed
Mary. But being at the point of death, he bequeathed to the
before-named William Bateman a large sum of money for com-
pleting the said College already commenced ; in which, however,
notwithstanding in his time there were only 1 warden and 3
fellows (and there is no knowing what became of the 4th), yet
by the bounty of other persons and the assistance of various
patrons, it became so much benefited both in money and
revenues, that 6 fellows and 1 1 scholars were added to the
former number. So, likewise, John Caius, a physician, in the
year 1557, not only added a new building, but placed therein 3
fellows and 20 scholars, and directed it to be named Gonville
and Caius Hall or College. More scholars were afterwards
appointed ; 4 were founded by Joanna Trapps, a widow of
London, 1 by Humphrey Busby, 1 by Matthew [Parker],
Archbishop of Canterbury, together with a donation of silver
plate and books; 1 by Richard Willison, and 12 scholars, 6
fellows, and one chaplain by Jocosa (Joyce) Frankland.

King Henry VI, a very pious Prince, erected this College in King's College.
the year 1441 (19th of his reign), for a rector and 12 fellows or
scholars, and named it the College of St. Nicholas of Cambridge.
Two years afterwards he changed both its form and name, and

38 England as seen by Foreigners.

Eton College.

Queen's Col-
lege.

directed it to be called, King's, St. Mary's, and St. Nicholas
College, appointing thereto 1 provost, 70 fellows, 10 priests, 6
clerks, and 16 choristers. It is, however, at the present day
known by the name of King's College, and has a provost,
70 scholars, 3 chaplains, 6 clerks, 16 choristers, 16 servitors to
the College, and 13 to the senior fellows, together with 3 poor
scholars. The Chapel which he built in this College is justly
esteemed one of the most beautiful structures in the world. It has
been much enlarged by the generosity of Henry VII. and VIII.

Besides this College, Henry VI. erected one at Eton, and
appointed thereto 1 president, 8 fellows and choristers, and 60
grammar scholars, who were to be preferred in process of time
to this King's College.

Margaret of Anjou, the wife of King Henry VI, founded
this College under royal auspices and dedicated it to St. Margaret
and St. Bernard in the year 1448 (26 Hen. VI.) But, as fortune
was averse so that she did not see the completion of it, Elizabeth,
wife of King Edward IV. (the true founder of this College),
was moved by devotion and the noble appearance of the work,
to continue it and perfect it herself, viz. in the year 1465 (5
Edw. IV.) Marmaduke Lumley, Bishop of Lincoln, gave
much assistance towards its just perfection by presenting it with
books and £100 in money. Likewise Richard, Duke of
Gloucester [afterwards Richard III.], and Andrew Ducket, who
was formerly a master of this College, were great benefactors;
after which the College has been of late so much favoured by
illustrious persons of both sexes, that it can now support 1
master, 19 fellows, 11 scholars, and 8 bible-clerks, in addition
to 2 professors of arithmetic and geometry, and 2 fellows who
were appointed thereto by Sir Thomas Smith.

England as seen by Foreigners. 39

Robert Woodlark, professor of Theology and sometime provost Catharine
of King's College, and Chancellor of the University of Cam- Haix '
bridge, erected a College from the two houses which he pos-
sessed in Mill Street, not far from Queen's College, and by joining
two others for the purpose in the same street, founded a Hall
thereon for one master and 3 or more fellows. This was
named St. Catharine's Hall. Afterwards, Edward IV, for him-
self, his heirs and successors, by letters patent ratified and con-
firmed it for ever in the year 1475 an d r 5 tn °f his reign. Others
have followed the example of this generous founder, and have
endowed this College so liberally that it now supports 1 master,
6 fellows, and one bible-clerk.

John Alcock, Bishop of Ely, having obtained license of King jesds College.
Henry VII, converted St. Radegund's Priory into a College,
and appointed, as a perpetual memorial of his foundation, 1
master, 6 fellows, and 6 scholars, and directed it to be named
Jesus and St. Radegund's College in 1502 (18 Hen. VII. ) a
The generosity of this founder has afforded an example to others,
who have contributed to the College both by estates and money,
so that now there are maintained 1 master, 16 fellows, and 22
scholars from the general fund. Moreover there is in this, as in
most other Colleges of this University, a large number of other
kinds of students, for some are of quality and of noble birth,
and are called Fellow Commoners ; some are pensioners ; others
are termed sizars and under-sizars, all of whom live at their own
or friends' expense ; but since there is no certain or fixed number,
I conceive it would be needless for me in this place to mention
any.

a The charter of foundation is dated 1496. — Dyer.

LEGE,

40 England as seen by Foreigners.

Christ's Col- King Henry VII. confirmed the translation of this College of

God's House to that of Christ's College, which his mother
Margaret, Countess of Richmond and Derby, had instituted in
the year 1505 (21 Hen. VII.) At first Henry VI. founded
this College of God's House as a Grammar School, and appointed
thereto a proctor and 4 fellows ; it then maintained on the
foundation 1 master, 1 2 fellows, 47 scholars, besides 6 servitors,
who attend to the wants of the master in particular and to the
whole College in general. Edward VI. added to it one fellow
and 3 scholars ; then Sir Walter Mildmay, a man of praiseworthy
memory, left an annual stipend ; Edmund Grindal, Archbishop
of Canterbury, bequeathed a legacy, so that therefore this College,
by the benevolence of those named and of others, is so much
increased that at the present time it has 1 master, 13 fellows,
5$ scholars, besides 6 under-scholars who receive 40 shillings
yearly, and 6 others 10s. per annum.

St. John's Col- Margaret, Countess of Richmond, grandmother of King
Henry VIII, founded in the year 1508 the College of St. John
the Evangelist, in place of the Priory of the Canons of St. John
the Evangelist, which formerly stood on this spot. She, how-
ever, having died before she had finished this her foundation,
committed the work to certain persons whom she named her
executors, who faithfully discharged the trust and appointed a
master, 50 fellows, and 50 scholars; but unfortunately this number
afterwards decreased to about 32 fellows and 27 scholars. Yet it
has acquired other true benefactors, so that it can now maintain
1 master, 54 fellows, 70 scholars, and 9 sizars, besides professors
and chaplains founded by Mr. Ambrose Cave and others. And
recently 6 other scholars have entered there, viz. 2 founded by
Lady Mildred Burghley, 1 by Frances Jermin, and 3 by Henry

LEGE

England as seen by Foreigners. 41

Billingsley, an alderman of London ; Lord Burghley, treasurer
of England, has likewise assigned a yearly pension of £30 in
perpetuity to the benefit of this College.

The College of St. Magdalen, at first called by the Duke of Magdalen
Buckingham [Edward Stafford] Buckingham Hall, was erected
by him in the year 15 19 (11 Hen. VIII.), as a College for
students in the place of the hostel of the monks. But when
Thomas [Lord] Audley, Chancellor of England, obtained the
authority of the King and Parliament in 1 549 to regulate and
endow this College, he called it St. Magdalen's College. At
his premature decease, however, much to the detriment and loss
of the College, there were left only 1 master, 5 fellows, 1
scholar, and 3 servitors. At length, about 1582, Sir Christopher
Wray, Knight and Lord Chief Justice of England, was induced
to complete this important work outright at great expense, and
to erect a handsome forecourt thereto for the reception of 3
additional fellows and 6 scholars. Edmund Grindal, Archbishop
of Canterbury, also added I scholar, and Mr. Roberts, of
Norfolk, 3 others ; since which Mr. SpenlofFe, of Lincoln, has
assigned lands of the annual value of £40 for the maintenance of
1 fellow, 2 scholars, and 1 preacher.

King Henry VIII, on the 19th of December, 1546, the 38th Trinity
and last year of his reign, converted King's Hall, St. Michael's
House, and Phiswick's hostel into a College, which he dedicated
to the Holy and Undivided Trinity, appointed thereto 1 master,
60 fellows, 40 scholars, and ao poor scholars, and endowed it
with estates and revenues of the yearly value of £1300, besides
the possessions which it formerly enjoyed. Queen Mary added
about 20 scholars, 10 choristers with their master, 4 chaplains,
13 poor scholars, and 2 undersizars, and gave so much landed

42 England as seen by Foreigners.

Emmanuel
College.

Sidney-Sussex
College.

property as to produce £338 annually. Thomas Allen,
Rector of the Church of Stevenage, added 2 scholars, with the
maintenance of 3 grammar scholars, and 4 poor students, and
property yielding an income of £y 5 per annum. Frances Jermyn,
the sister of Sir Robert Jermyn, founded a scholarship, with a
yearly income of £7 1 os. An annual sum of £ 1 20, the gift of
the founder, is paid by this College to 3 public Professors of
Divinity, Hebrew, and Greek, each receiving £40.

Sir Walter Mildmay, late Chancellor of the Exchequer and
Councillor to our gracious Queen Elizabeth, founded in the
year 1584 (26 Eliz.), in the Preachers' Street, on the site of the
Monastery of the Friars Preachers [Black Friars, or Dominicans],
the College of Emmanuel, to the glory of the Immortal God,
for 1 master, 3 fellows, and 4 scholars. Nine fellows were sub-
sequently added ; 4 indeed by the founder, 1 by Sir Robert
Jermyn, from whom much is still expected, 1 by Sir Francis
Hastings, and 1 by Mr. [Robert] Taylor, 1 by Sir Thomas
Skinner, and 1 by Mr. [Nicholas] Fuller. By the kindness of
others — too many, however, for me to enumerate here — 30
scholars have also since been added ; moreover there are 10 poor
scholars, who are maintained partly by the schoolmaster and
town of Bungay in the county of Suffolk, and partly out of the
college revenues ; so that at the present day this College com-
prises 1 master, 12 fellows, 34 scholars, and 10 students of
inferior grade.

Here might be set down many other noteworthy things con-
cerning this University, if they were not already treated of by
Master Caius in a special history. But I cannot in honour
avoid adding that at this time a new College for 1 master, 10
fellows, and 20 scholars has been undertaken by order of Lady

England as seen by Foreigners. 43

Frances, Countess of Sussex, who, in 1588/ most generously
bequeathed £5000 for the purpose, and named it the College of
Lady Frances Sidney-Sussex.

But all this that I have briefly written respecting the origin of
our Universities and Colleges and have put in print (in order
that the generosity of so many praiseworthy persons should not
be forgotten), I have not unreasonably wished to dedicate par-
ticularly to your Holiness, since you have not only shown your-
self an excellent Patron to myself privately, but also a Maecenas
to both Universities publicly, as well as to all students in general.
Your Honour's most respectful servant, Symon Bibeus."

His Highness invited the Vice-Chancellor and other doctors
to supper, and the Chancellor sent for and presented them with
some splendid wine out of his own cellar.

The following morning, the 29th of August, his Highness
inspected the rest of the Colleges, as well as the old ruined and
decayed palace or castle, which lies upon an eminence or small
mount, in a large open tract of country, outside the town ; it
has the appearance of having been in former times a very
strong place of defence, but now it is only used for keeping
prisoners in some of the vaults.

Now as the before-named Vice-Chancel lor was engaged on
particular business, and had excused himself from dining with
his Highness, he took his leave ; and his Highness after having
partaken of a meal, departed for Ware, a fine large market- ware.
town, where he passed the night. 53

On the morning of the 30th of August his Highness pro-

* The Charter of foundation of Sidney-Sussex College bears date 1593. —
Dyer.

Palace.

44 England as seen by Foreigners.

ceeded towards London, and on the way he went to see the mag-
Theobm.ds nificent palace Theobalds, belonging to the Lord High Treasurer
of England, which is reckoned one of the most beautiful houses
in England, as in truth it is.

First of all his Highness inspected the handsome and delight-
ful hall, which is so ornamental and artistic that its equal is not
easily to be met with ; for, besides other embellishments in it,
there is a very high rock, of all colours, made of real stones,
out of which gushes a splendid fountain that falls into a large
circular bowl or basin, supported by two savages. This hall
has no pillars ; it is about sixty feet in length and upwards of
thirty wide.

The ceiling or upper floor is very artistically constructed : it
contains the twelve signs of the zodiac, so that at night you can
see distinctly the stars proper to each ; on the same stage the sun
performs its course, which is without doubt contrived by some
concealed ingenious mechanism. On each side of the hall are
six trees, having the natural bark so artfully joined, with
birds' nests and leaves as well as fruit upon them, all managed
in such a manner that you could not distinguish between the
natural and these artificial trees ; and, as far as I could see, there
was no difference at all, for when the steward of the house
opened the windows, which looked upon the beautiful pleasure-
garden, birds flew into the hall, perched themselves upon the
trees, and began to sing. In a word, this hall is so elegantly
adorned with paintings and otherwise that it is right royal, and
well worth the seeing. 5 *

There are also many other spacious halls and fine galleries in
this splendid palace, with very artistic paintings and correct
landscapes of all the most important and remarkable towns in

CEILING- IN THEOBALDS PALACE

England as seen by Foreigners. 45

Christendom, as well as tables of inlaid- work and marble of various
colours, all of the richest and most magnificent description.

In another hall is depicted the kingdom of England, with all
its cities, towns and villages, mountains and rivers ; as also the
armorial bearings and domains of every esquire, lord, knight,
and noble who possess lands and retainers to whatever extent.
In short, all the apartments and rooms are adorned with beautiful
tapestries and the like to such a degree that no king need be
ashamed to dwell there.

Some rooms in particular have very beautiful and costly ceil-
ings, which are skilfully wrought in joiner's work and elegantly
coloured, as may be seen in the annexed sketch, the ground of
which is prettily ornamented with blue colours, but the roses and
other ornaments are gilded.

The garden is close adjoining and of immense extent, and as
the palace is really most magnificent, so likewise in proportion
is no expense spared on the garden ; in a summer-house there,
is a table made of a solid piece of black touchstone (Probier-
stein), fourteen spans long, seven wide, and one span thick.

After viewing all this, as well as the stables, in which were
kept many fine horses, his Highness dined in the adjacent vil-
lage, and invited the steward of the palace as his guest. 55

We returned to London safe and well that night, and the dis-
tance from London to Oxford is forty-four English miles, from
Oxford to Cambridge fifty-five miles, and from thence to London
fifty English miles.

On the 1st of September his Highness was shown in London
the English dogs,' of which there were about 1 20, all kept in
the same enclosure, but each in a separate kennel.

" Die Englische Docken."

46 England as seen by Foreigners.

Bear and b«ll In order to gratify his Highness, and at his desire, two bears
and a bull were baited ; 56 at such times you can perceive the breed
and mettle of the dogs, for although they receive serious injuries
from the bears, are caught by the horns of the bull, and tossed
into the air so as frequently to fall down again upon the horns,
they do not give in, [but fasten on the bull so firmly] that one
is obliged to pull them back by the tails, and force open their
jaws. 3 Four dogs at once were set on the bull ; they, however,
could not gain any advantage over him, for he so artfully con-
trived to ward off their attacks that they could not well get at
him ; on the contrary, the bull served them very scurvily by
striking and butting at them.

The 2nd of September the royal French ambassador, Beauvois,
invited his Highness to a stately banquet at his residence, a
beautiful country house, distant from London about two English
miles, 57 at which the renowned general of the English forces in
the Low Countries, Moritz, b and his brother the colonel, 58 were
present. At night his Highness returned to London.

Before his Highness's departure, the Earl of Essex (Exests),
Master of the Horse, made his Highness a present of a handsome
horse, which he accepted and accordingly took back with him.

On Sunday, the 3rd of September, his Highness sent before-
hand his servants, namely, Gerson the groom, Johann de Char-
mot the tailor, with a single-horse vehicle and lackey, as well as
the baggage and horses, on board a Hamburg ship called the
Red Lion, with orders for them to go to Hamburg, and thence

a " Lassen sie doch nicht nach, sonder man muss sie mit gewak hindersich
ziehen, und ihnen die Meuler auffbrechen.''
6 Sir John and Sir Edward Norris.

England as seen by Foreigners. 47

to proceed by land, by short stages, to Franckfort, and there to
await his Highness 's arrival. The name of the captain of this
ship was Mathis Wrede, of Hamburg.

The same day, after dinner, his Highness visited and inspected Palace at
the royal Palace and the adjacent gardens of London : in this s^/ws"'
palace are very many beautiful and variously painted and orna- Park "
mented halls and splendid rooms, as it is in itself a magnificent
and royal house pleasantly situated by the water-side.

On the 4th of September having at length received the re-
quisite passport, which was as follows : —

" Theras this noblman Connte Mombeliard is to passe ouer
Contrye us England in to the lowe Contryes, Thise Schalbe to
wil and command you in heer Maj te . name for such, and is heer
plensure to see him fournissed With post horses in his trauail to
the sen side, and ther to soecke up such schippinge as schalbe fit
for his transportations, he pay nothing for the same, forwich tis
schalbe your sufficient warranti soo see that you faile noth therof
at your perilles, From Bifleete, 59 the 2. uf September 1592.

Yur Friend

C. Howard. 3
(Locus Sigilli.)

To al Iustices of pence Maiors Bayliffes and al other her
Ma le . officiers. in especial to my owne officiers of te admyral-
tye"—

His Highness, therefore, having thus obtained the desired per-
mission, and intending now to take his departure from London
homewards, in the name of God went on board a small vessel
which was about to sail for Gravesend, where the large ship

a The Lord High Admiral.

Gravesend.

Rochester and
Chatham.

48 England as seen by Foreigners.

that was bound for Flushing (Fliessingeri), in Zealand, was lying,
completely equipped for sailing, and only waiting for a favour-
able wind.

Captain Saige, who was ill in London, remained behind, for
he was not able to endure the fatigue of travelling by sea and
land on account of his weakness. 3

Now when his Highness had got into the channel, the waves
were very high and boisterous, and we saw a great many large
black fishes called sea-hogs (porpoises), which are from eight to
ten feet long, and rise high out of the water. His Highness
shot at one of them, and the sailors told us that it was a sure
sign of rough and stormy weather, 5 which indeed we soon after-
wards, with the utmost danger of our lives, only too fully ex-
perienced and found to be true. 60

The said 4th of September we arrived well and safe at Graves-
end, which is distant from London twenty-two English miles.
His Highness having dined, and finding that the wind was
adverse, and that the sailors did not intend to depart that evening,
in the meanwhile rode with post-horses to Rochester, 61 in order
to see some of the Queen's ships of war at that time lying in
the harbour there ; but on the road such a violent wind arose as
nearly to upset us, horses and all, and at the same time made
the waves so turbulent that no one could without the greatest
danger approach the ships of war. Fortunately the officers
conducted his Highness to the shore, along which were ranged
not less than forty ships of war ; some were armed, others
getting ready for sea ; in particular we noticed the large ship
called the English Lion., which caused immense damage to the

" BISdigkeit."

b .

' Einer grossen ungestiimme und Fortunse."

England as seen by Foreigners. 49

mighty Spanish Armada a few years before. As the great

ship, in which the renowned English Captain Drake (Brack), as

is commonly reported, sailed round the world and had lately

returned from the island of Dominica, 3 was at this time repairing

on shore and refitting, his Highness went on board to inspect

it ; it is indeed a very large and strongly built ship, of several

hundred lasts, b exceedingly fit to undertake so protracted and

dangerous a voyage, and well able to bear much buffeting; the

cabins and armouries are in fine order, as in a well-built castle ;

in the middle, where the largest cannon are placed, it is eighteen

good paces wide ; what its length must be in proportion may be

easily judged. 02 Afterwards his Highness rode back again to

Gravesend, the night being as dark as pitch, and the wind high

and boisterous ; he slept there that night. On the road, however,

an Englishman, with a drawn sword in his hand, came upon

us unawares, and ran after us as fast as he could ; perhaps he

expected to find other persons, for it is very probable that he

had an ambush, as that particular part of the road d is not the Gad's Hiu..

most safe. 83

Now, as we have seen and gained some knowledge of the king-
dom of England, and have started on our homeward voyage, we
may here make some observations on its peculiarities, so far as is
warranted by his Highness's experience during his brief stay here.

In the first place it is impossible to give a correct estimate of

a " Eben damaln als er in der Insel Dominica gewesen."

b A shipping last is eighty cubic feet, equal to two tons English ship measure.

c " Mag wol ein Buffleiden."

d " Auff dem Wege aber ist unversehens ein Engellender mit blosser Wehr
starck hinder uns her gerent, unnd villeicht vermeint andere Leut anzutreffen, dan
wol zuvermuten, dz er ein hinderhalt gehabt, weil es der Enden nicht zum
sichersten."

50 England as seen by Foreigners.

the population of this kingdom ; but this we have clearly under-
stood from distinguished English lords, who conversed with his
Highness on the subject, and mentioned, among other things,
that in case of a war with an enemy wishing to subdue England
entirely, that enemy would have to make up his mind to fight
eight pitched battles and to confront from thirty to forty
thousand men in each.

The soldiers, moreover, are excellent, but they do not willingly
go on foreign service. 3 When soldiers are wanted, and idlers are
seen lounging about, they give them money, and then they are
bound to serve whether they like it or not; or should they
[desert and] be caught, their business is soon settled ; b for because,
as above mentioned, this kingdom is an island, and encompassed
on every side by water, so that no one qan enter or depart
except in ships, orders have been issued in all ports or havens,
that no Englishman shall leave it without a licence.

As regards cold weather and thunderstorms we ought to remark
that the winter sets in with snow in December, and lasts till
February, but the snow does not lie long, for the climate is warm.

Many witches c are found there, who frequently do much
mischief by means of hail and tempests." 4

Of game, it has great store of fallow-deer of various colours,
as well in the woods as in enclosed parks ; likewise red deer,
stags, and other game, though few and small ; but no wild boars
nor wolves are met with in this island, and no roes ; but there are
foxes and hares, vast numbers of rabbits or coneys, which are

* " Ziehen aber nicht gern hinauss."

b " 1st ihr Process schon gemacht." — It is all over with them.
c " Vil Hexen werden darinnen gefunden, und befchicht offtermahln, durch
Hagel unnd ander Ungewitter grosser Schaden."

England as seen by Foreigners. 5 1

every where to be found in enclosed gardens, as well as in the
open fields and woods ; these make their escape from the
gardens. 65

Of tame quadrupeds it has beautiful oxen and cows, although
not so big as the Burgundy cattle, but they have very large
horns, are low and heavy, and for the most part black ; there is
abundance of sheep and wethers in all parts and places, which
graze by themselves winter and summer without shepherds ; but
when it snows or freezes hard they are driven into yards and fed
with fodder, otherwise they do not go into the stables either in
summer or winter.

Sheep-shearing takes place only once, viz. in the month of
June ; the heaviest wethers weigh sixty pounds, others from forty
to fifty pounds ; they bear at the most no more than six, others
four to five pounds of wool ; one of the best wethers (notwith-
standing that they are very abundant) sells for about twenty
shillings, that is, ten French francs or five thalers ; the inferior
sort about ten shillings, or five francs ; and the worst about six
or eight English shillings. The skin of the best wether and sheep
is worth about twelve pence, that is, four and a half German
batzen ; the worst about eight pence, or three batzen ; a pound
of wool about twelve pence, or four and a half batzen.

Horses are abundant, yet, although low and small, they are
very fleet; 1 ' the riding horses are geldings, and are generally
excellent. The Queen has forbidden any horse 68 to be exported
out of the kingdom without a licence. b

There are immense numbers of swine, which are larger than
in any other country.

" " Die doch nidertrachtig und klein, aber gantz geng." b " Ohne passport."

5 2 England as seen by Foreigners.

Of tame and wild fowl, there are swans in great numbers,
herons, ducks, pheasants, partridges, quails, turtle-doves, and
wild doves.

Of agricultural produce it has very fine corn, rye, barley, oats,
beans, hops, vegetables, apples, pears of various sorts, red and
blue plums, cherries, (which however do not become ripe before
June,) but no peaches except what are grown in gardens.

There is no wine- growing in this kingdom ; but if you want
wine you can purchase the best and most delicious sorts, of
various nations, and that on account of the great facility which
the sea affords them for barter with other countries.

Oysters 2 are in great plenty, and are better and larger than
in Italy;" 7 they are cried in all parts of the streets. They sell
also cod, b plaice, small white river fish, pike, carp, trout, lobsters
and crawfish, and in fine all kinds of sea fish, which are sold
like meat in other parts, both fresh and salted.

As regards the currency, the kings and queens of England have
rightly had gold and silver coins struck for payment. A double
rose-noble is worth thirty-two English shillings, that is, eighteen
French francs, or eight thalers or rix-dollars ; a rose-noble, half as
much. An angel, having on it the knight St. George [St. Michael
and the dragon], is worth ten shillings, or five francs, or three
German florins ; an Hungarian ducat, worth six shillings and
eight pence, is equal to two florins ; a French crown, or crown of
the sun \ecu d'or au soleil~\=s\yi shillings, or twenty-seven batzen,
as in France; a Spanish pistole just as much. Of silver coins,
which the Queen has had struck of pure good silver, a shilling is
equal to four and a half batzen ; half-a-shilling, to two batzen

5 " Fischwerck von Ostrien." b " Bolchen, Blatteisslin."

Rngland as seen by Foreigners. 5 3

one kreutzer. Twelve pennies go for a shilling, or two for
three kreutzers.

But since other authors have written in divers places much
and minutely concerning the manners, customs, and other note-
worthy matters, which have occurred for many years past in
this mighty kingdom, there is no need of further enlargement in
this place. And this is all that can be related of what his High-
ness has been able to see and to learn in the course of his hasty
journey.

II.

LEWIS FREDERICK,

PRINCE OF WIRTEMBERG,

1610.

TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH.

(British Museum. Add. MS. zo.ooi.)

e VMt

LEWIS FREDERICK, PRINCE OF
WIRTEMBERG.

" A Relation of the Journey which I, in company with his Serene High-
ness the Duke Lewis Frederick of Wirtemberg, have with God's help
undertaken and happily accomplished, through part of the rhine
country, Holland, Zealand, England, Scotland,* Friesland, likewise
part of Germany ; and which has been briefly penned in the French
language by me, Hans Jacob Wurmsser von Vendenheym — 1610."

1 6 10, March 16.

EFT Stuttgart (Stuckart)

April 1 2, Flushing— a fine maritime and mer- fishing.
cantile town, which is garrisoned by the English ;
the governor of the fortress, whose name is Mr.
Brune [Sir William Browne], 68 accompanied his Excellency and
gave him a collation. At five o'clock in the evening the wind
became fair, when we immediately embarked, and with God's
help crossed the sea so prosperously that by five o'clock in the

a The title is written in German on the outside cover of the manuscript ;
there is, however, nothing of Scotland in the Journal. — See Remarks in the Intro-
duction.

58 England as seen by Foreigners.

gravesend. evening of the 1 3th (Friday) we arrived at Gravesend. The
Ambassadors of the States came here also at the same time.
On quitting the small boat, Mr. Leucnor [Sir Lewis Lewkenor],
his Majesty's Master of the Ceremonies, received his Excel-
lency.

Saturday, 14th. After dinner his. Majesty sent My Lord
Willoughby, 69 accompanied by twenty gentlemen well equipped,
to receive his Excellency in his name, who straightway con-
ducted us in the royal barges up to London to the inn called
the Black Eagle."

London. Sunday, 15th.

Monday, 16th. His Majesty sent four coaches to fetch his
Excellency, in order to give him audience in the great hall of
the Palace. His Majesty was seated under a canopy of cloth
of gold, b together with the Queen, the Prince [Henry], the
Duke of York ^Prince Charles, afterwards Charles I.], the
Princess [Elizabeth], 70 Madame Arabella, 71 and the Prince of "
Brunswick ; 72 a great number of earls and lords of England — all
Knights of the Garter — were standing round the throne ; the
other parts of the room were quite filled with nobles and ladies.
Tuesday, 17 th. Mons. de la Boderie, 73 ambassador of the
most Christian King [Henry IV.], came to pay a visit to his
Excellency. After that we went out of the city to see a
garden.

Wednesday, r 8th. The Prince of Brunswick called to see
his Excellency at nine o'clock in the morning ; after dinner, his
Excellency went to the second audience, to make propositions
concerning the business of the Embassy.

a " Au logis de l'Aigle noir." b " Soubz ung des de toille dor."

England as seen by Foreigners. 59

Thursday, i 9 th. The Ambassador of Venice came to see
his Excellency at nine o'clock in the morning ; he is styled the
most illustrious Cornao. 74

Friday, 20th. The Ambassadors of the States of the United
Provinces came to visit his Excellency at nine o'clock in the
morning; their names were Messrs. Berch, Verius, Barnfelt,
Albertus Joachimi/ 5 and Carron, resident ambassador for the
States. After dinner, the Queen sent two of her coaches for
the purpose of giving an audience to his Excellency, who
received great honour from her Majesty.

Saturday, 21st. His Excellency went to see the Prince of
Wales [Henry], 76 and the Prince of Brunswick, who were living
together (comme logez ensemble) ; after having discoursed a long
time in the presence-chamber, waiting for the rain to cease, they
determined meanwhile to run at the ring, which ended to the
honour of the Princes of Wales, of Brunswick, and of Wirtem-
berg — at that time ambassador for the Protestant Princes.

Sunday, 22nd. His Majesty, the Prince, his Excellency, and
the Prince of Brunswick dined together. In the evening the
Prince with fifteen Knights, having assumed their robes of
the Order, entered the chapel to hear vespers, and to commence
the ceremonies of the morrow. After coming from the chapel,
the Prince supped by himself in the great hall, and all the
other Knights in another, every one according to rank, two and
two ; his Majesty supped alone ; and the Princes of Brunswick
and of Wirtemberg were entertained in a separate chamber.
After rising from table they went to see the Prince at his table,
and all the other Knights.

Monday, 23rd. St. George's Day, which his Majesty cele-
brated with the accustomed ceremonies in the chapel, and

60 England as seen by Foreigners.

procession in the Court, he himself and the Prince [Henry]
dining in public and with great state; the above-mentioned
Knights also together, in the same order as on the preceding
day ; the Princes of Brunswick and of Wirtemberg were, as
before, served apart ; on leaving the table they went to see his
Majesty, 77 who was quite four hours at table, owing tp the
number of the courses and the various ceremonies that were
observed. After which the Ambassadors of France and of the
States presented themselves likewise at his Majesty's table. In
the evening, after supper, the two Princes of Brunswick and of
Wirtemberg again saw his Majesty at table, who, standing up
and with head uncovered, drank to his Excellency the health of
the Princes of the Union. When his Majesty had risen from
table, the two Princes of Brunswick and of Wirtemberg, with all
the Knights of the Order, conducted him to his chamber,
where his Majesty wishing them good night dismissed them.

Tuesday, 24th. His Majesty set out from Westminster at
four o'clock in the afternoon, to go a hunting in the county of
Northampton [Norfolk], eighty leagues [miles] from London. 78

Wednesday, 25th. His Excellency returned the visit of the
Ambassadors of Venice and of the States at nine o'clock in the
morning ; after dinner he went to see the resident Ambassador
of the States, Mr. Carron, 79 [Caron] who lives out of the city,
opposite Westminster, in a very fine house of his own, well fur-
nished, and with beautiful gardens round about : it is called
South Lambeth (Sudlambet). On repassing through the suburb
of Water Lambeth [Watterlambei), where the Archbishop of
Canterbury resides, his Excellency met at the Thames ferry 60
the Prince, and the Prince of Brunswick, with whom he crossed
the water and went to see the tombs of the Kings at West-
minster. 81

Rngland as seen by Foreigners. 6 1

Thursday, 26th. His Excellency having dined, paid a visit to
the Duke of Brunswick ; after which he went to see the baiting
of bears and bulls, and monkeys that ride on horseback very
well, although' they have not seen the first masters of Rome,
Naples, and Paris.

Friday, 27th. MM. de Colli 62 and Buwinckhausen 83 went for
the first time to the King's Council to make their propositions.

Saturday, 28th. The Queen sent to his Excellency at two
o'clock in the afternoon, in order to take her leave before going
to the Palace of Greenwich (C/iasteau de Grinwichts), where
her Majesty went to take the air, accompanied by the Prince,
the Princess, and the Prince of Brunswick.

Sunday, 29th. His Excellency invited to dinner the Ambas-
sadors of France and of the States, with Messrs. Carrew and
Edmondes, when they drank in good earnest the healths of the
Kings and Princes..

Monday, 30th. His Excellency went to the Globe, the usual
place for acting Plays ; the history of the Moor of Venice
[' Othello '] was represented there. a

Tuesday, May 1st, 16 10. His Excellency went to Eltham elth«
Park to see the perpetual motion ; the inventor's name was
Cornelius Trebel [Drebbel], 84 a native of Alkmaar, a very fair
and handsome man, and of very gentle manners, altogether
different from such-like characters ; we also saw there virginals
which played of themselves.

Wednesday, 2nd. The Prince of Brunswick dined with his
Excellency ; he came with a goodly company of gentlemen of his
country and Scotch servants of his Majesty.

" " Lundi, 30. S. E. alia au Globe lieu ordinaire ou Ton joue les Commedies,
y fut represente l'histoire du More de Venise."— See Remarks in the Introduction.

Nonesuch.
Beddington-

Theobalds,
12 miles.

Ware, 8 miles.

Royston,
13 miles.

Cameridgt,
10 miles.
Saturday, 5th.
Sunday, 6th

62 England as seen by Foreigners.

Thursday, 3rd. At eight o'clock his Excellency went to St.
James's Park to run at the ring with the Prince ; and after
breakfasting with the Prince of Brunswick, he went to see the
royal House of Nonesuch, 81 * and that of Beddington, 86 belonging
to Mr. Francis Carro [Carew]. There is here one of the most
pleasant and ornamental gardens in England, with many beau-
tiful streams ; in the house is to be seen a handsome cabinet/
the walls of which are of branched work of wood, gilded,
enriched with beautiful pieces of marble with the floor of the
same : over the door of the cabinet there is to be noticed a
small wax figure, which I take to be the emblem of the house. b

Friday, 4th. The day on which the most christian and
august King Henry IV. was wickedly murdered in his coach in
the city of Paris, near the Innocents.

A very fine royal House and beautiful garden. It was built
by the High Treasurer, father of the present fligh Treasurer.

A town where we lodged at the Stag. I slept in a bed of
swans' down, eight feet wide.

A market town where his Majesty has a hunting seat on
account of the surrounding country, which is the best in all
England for hare-hunting, in which his Majesty takes extreme
pleasure. 87

A city and famous University, where there are eighteen fine
Colleges, among which that of Trinity — which resembles a
superb princely house or royal palace — is the most beautiful.
It was founded by King Edward, the third of that name ; at

" i. e. closet, or small chamber.

b " II y a une petite figure de Cire a remarquer que ie tien pour le wortzeychen
de la Maison."

c " Je fus couche dans ung lict de plume de eigne qui avoit huict pieds de
largeur." See Note 53.

England as seen by Foreigners. 63

this time more than 300 scholars were resident within it. The
second is that of St. John, where they are as many ; it was
founded by Margaret, Countess of Richmond, the mother of King
Henry VII, whose portrait is to be seen in the chapel of the
college : during her lifetime she resided there for the space of
six months. His Excellency also saw Sidney, Christ, Emmanuel,
Queen's and King Henry VI. 's [King's] Colleges, in the last of
which there is without doubt one of the most beautiful chapels
in Europe, as well for the purity of the Gothic work as for the
height of the vaulted roof, and that there are no pillars ; it is
100 paces long, and on each side are twelve large arcades, the
windows of which are all coloured. Under that monarch the
kingdom of France was lost ; his coat of arms is supported by a
dragon and a greyhound : the walls of the chapel are adorned
with the devices of York and of Lancaster and with fleur-de-lis,
all crowned. At this time there were more than 2000 scholars
in the said Colleges. The person who showed them to his
Excellency was Mr. Richard Tomson, a native of Antwerp. 88

A village where his Majesty has likewise a hunting seat, 89 for Newmarket,
the same reason as at Royston — to course the hare. 90

A town and abode of the ancient Saxon Kings, as the old Thetford,

16 miles.

ruins of the castles there prove to us. ' As soon as his Excel- Monday, 7th.
lency had arrived, his Majesty sent My Lord Hay 92 to say that Tuesday ' 8th -
he was very welcome. The next morning his Excellency went to
wait on the King, with whom he entered into the church, it being
the day which his Majesty observes without fail, viz. that of
his deliverance from the assassination plotted by the Earls of
Gowry. 93 After his Excellency had dined with his Majesty, the
Duke of Lennox, who had come on a visit before dinner,
conducted him to the hunt, when they coursed the hare, flew a
hawk, and caught dotterels" 4 — birds which are taken in a strange

64 England as seen by Foreigners.

Newmarket,
16 miles.
Saffron
Walden,
18 miles.

Aubley End.

Theobalds,
20 miles.

London,
12 miles.

manner, as we saw, and which may be better told by word of
mouth than in writing. His Excellency afterwards supped
with his Majesty ; and upon rising from table they went in a
coach to the river, where they saw cormorants 95 — birds which,
at a sign given by the master who has trained them, plunge under
the water and catch eels and other fish, and which at another
signal are made to give them up and disgorge them alive — a
thing very marvellous to behold. On all subjects his Majesty
discoursed in a wise and admirable manner. 3 And before his
Majesty went to the church, the more than sad news, alas!
reached us of the horrible and execrable murder of the most
Christian King 06 [Henry IV, of France].

Wednesday, 9th. His Majesty conducted his Excellency to
the hare-hunt, after returning from which and dining together
his Majesty took his leave on departing for London, and his
Excellency did the same.

His Excellency partook of a collation on his way.
A town belonging to the Earl of Suffolk, High Chamberlain
of England, from which his eldest son takes the title of Baron
[Howard de Walden].

A quarter of a league hence is the superb house of Audley
End, 97 which is said to be the finest in England, belonging to
the said Earl : it is not yet finished, and has cost 100,000
pounds sterling, and it is supposed that the remainder will not
come to less, which will be a million [?] of gold.

Thursday, 10th. His Majesty arrived at the Palace at the
same hour.
Friday, nth. His Excellency went at nine o'clock in the

• Sur toute chose estoit les sages discours de sa Ma te tres admirables. :

England as seen by Foreigners. 65

morning to visit the Ambassador of France, to condole with
him on the death of the most Christian King his master.

Saturday, 12th. Messrs. de Colly and Buwinckhausen went
to the Council of his Majesty.

Sunday, 13 th. The resident Ambassador of Spain, Don
Pedro de Suniga, 98 took leave of the King, presenting the new
Ambassador, who was Don Blonso de Velasco."

Monday, 14th. The States' Ambassadors dined with his
Majesty ; and Lord Rich, 100 Mr. Moray [Sir David Murray],
a Scotchman, who was the Prince's governor, 101 and St. Anthoine
his riding-master, 102 dined with his Excellency.

Tuesday, 15th. The Ambassadors of the States went at ten
o'clock to take leave of his Excellency.

Wednesday, 16th. His Excellency went to visit the States'
Ambassadors at ten o'clock in the morning to bid adieu to
them ; and Mr. Levinus, 103 second Secretary to his Majesty,
went with his Excellency.

Thursday, 17th. The Ambassador of Venice came to see
his Excellency.

Friday, 18th. His Majesty sent for his Excellency to
acquaint him with the final resolution ; the audience was given
in his Majesty's Privy Gallery, several Knights of the Order
being present.

Saturday, 19th. Mr. Buwinckhausen set out for France in
company with Mr. Edmondes, 104 who was appointed to be resi-
dent Ambassador on the part of his Majesty.

Sunday, 20th. The Prince of Brunswick, My Lord Hay,
Angsrieder [Anstruther ?], and a goodly company of gentlemen
supped with his Excellency.

Monday, 21st. The Ambassador of Venice and the States'

England as seen by Foreigners.

Gravesend,
20 miles.

Rochester,

5 miles.

COBHAM HAIX.

SlTTINGBOURNE,

10 miles.
Canterbury,
10 miles.

Dover, lomiles.

Ambassador [Caron] dined with his Excellency ; after which the
latter took leave of the Ambassador of France.

Tuesday, 22nd. His Excellency went to Greenwich to take
leave of the King and Queen; the latter 105 was in the garden
with the Princess [Elizabeth] and Arabella.

Wednesday, 23rd. His Excellency took leave of the Ambas-
sador of Venice ; and Viscount de l'Isle, 100 Mr. Spencer Digby
Angsrietter, 107 and a gentleman of the Queen's chamber supped
with his Excellency.

Thursday, 24th. After dinner his Excellency took leave of
the Prince, and of the Princes of York and Brunswick ; and at
six o'clock in the evening the Ambassadors of France and of
Venice came to take their leave.

Friday, 25th. His Excellency set out from London to sleep
at Gravesend, where in the evening he took leave of the Sieur
Jacques Sandalas. 108

Saturday, 26th. His Excellency inspected the King's ships,
and in the morning he went to see Cobham Hall, which is very
fine, but bewailing the absence of its master. 109 ^

A market and post town.

Sunday, 27th. An archiepiscopal city, with a very beautiful
church, where are to be seen the tombs of King Henry IV, and
of Cardinals Pole and Chastillon. On the road we met the Dukes
of Pomerania. 110

Monday, 28th. A town, castle, and seaport. We saw again
the vessels which took us to Dieppe on Nov. 23rd, 1608, in
the greatest possible^danger and tempest.

Tuesday, 29th. His Excellency embarked at ten o'clock
in the morning, the sea being calm and the weather fair.

Total of miles travelled in England, 215 : which, reckoning
5 English miles to 1 German league =43 German leagues.

III.

EMANUEL VAN METEREN,

1558 — 1612.

TRANSLATED FROM THE DUTCH.

S*£&3£S>.

PICTURES OF THE ENGLISH IN QUEEN
ELIZABETH'S REIGN.

BY EMANUEL VAN METEREN.

The Author was an Antwerp merchant, who settled in London, and resided
here during the entire reign of the Queen. In 1575, in company with his
cousin, Abraham Ortelius, the celebrated geographer, he travelled through the
whole of England and Ireland. In 1583 he was appointed Dutch Consul
(hoofdmari) for England, which office he held till his death in 1612. His
" History of the Netherlands" (written in Dutch; 1599; 1614 ; 1636, &c),
is deservedly esteemed a masterpiece ; the Author carefully collected his mate-
rials from every authentic source, and has produced a very valuable book to be
consulted with profit by every student of the history of the period. The
following are extracts translated from this work. Van Meteren was buried in the
church of St. Dionys Backchurch, London, and a monument was erected to his
memory. The church was destroyed in the great fire of 1666.

HE English are a clever, handsome, and well-made
people, but, like all islanders, of a weak and tender
nature. They are generally fair, like all northern
nations, and especially the women, who know very
well how to protect the complexion of their faces against the
power of the sun with hats (hoeyen) and veils, and their hands

jo England as seen by Foreigners.

with gloves — even the very peasants there, as the ladies of the
Court do in the Netherlands and in Germany.

The people are bold, courageous, ardent, and cruel in war,
fiery in attack (yyerich int aengrijfen), and having little fear of
death ; they are not vindictive, but very inconstant, rash, vain-
glorious, light, and deceiving, and very suspicious, especially of
foreigners, whom they despise. They are full of courtly and
affected manners and words, which they take for gentility,
civility, and wisdom. They are eloquent (wehprekende) and
very hospitable ; they feed well and delicately, and eat a great
deal of meat (seer veel vleesch) ; and as the Germans pass the
bounds of sobriety in drinking, these do the same in eating, 1 " for
which the fertility of the country affords them sufficient means,
although in general the fruits have not such strength and virtue
as in France or the Netherlands for the want of hot sun. Even
the grass, as the herbalists say, is not so nourishing, whereby
the meat is in consequence softer and not so firm, although
they have a great abundance of it ; but it is well-tasted enough.

The people are not so laborious and industrious as the
Netherlanders or French, as they lead for the'most part an indo-
lent life {een ledich leven leydende) like the Spaniards ; the most
toilsome, difficult, and skilful works are chiefly performed by
foreigners, as among the idle Spaniards. They have a great
many sheep which bear fine wool, of which for these aoo
years they have learnt to make fine cloth. They keep many lazy
servants, and also many wild animals for their pleasure, rather
than trouble themselves to cultivate the land. The island which
they inhabit is very large, and abounds with fish ; they have like-
wise the best harbours in Christendom. They are also rich in
ships ; nevertheless they do not catch as many fish as they require,

England as seen by Foreigners. 7 1

so that they are obliged to buy more from their neighbours ;
but they do catch a great quantity of herrings, for which they
have been in the habit of fishing for several years past, and so
have taken annually from ten to fourteen hundred lasts, which
for the most part they dry, and of which they send away every
year more than five or six hundred lasts to Italy and elsewhere.

The English dress in elegant, light, and costly garments, but
they are very inconstant and desirous of novelties, changing
their fashions every year, both men and women. When they
go abroad riding or travelling, they don their best clothes {soo
doen sy haer beste cleederen aeri), contrary to the practice of other
nations. Their garments are usually coloured and of a light stuff,
and they have not many of them like as they have in the Low
Countries, since they change so easily ; nor so much furniture
or unnecessary house ornaments.

The English language is broken German (de Enghelsche
sprake is gebroken Duyts), mixed with French and British
terms, and words, and pronunciation, from which they have
also gained a lighter pronunciation, not speaking out of the
heart as the Germans, but only prattling with the tongue. 3 Where
they have no significant words, they make use of Latin, and
sometimes of German and Flemish words. In Cornwall —
England's furthest boundary westward — and in Wales, they
speak the old British language, which they call in their own
language Cymraeg, and which the English call Welsh, as the
Germans do. (Van Meteren, Nederlandtsche Historie ; edition
of 16 14, fo. 262.)

a " Niet uytter herten als de Duytschen sprekende, maer alleenlijck mette
tonghe prattelende."

72 England as seen by Foreigners.

Wives in England are entirely in the power of their husbands,
their lives only excepted. Therefore when they marry, they give
up the surname of their father and of the family from which they
are descended, and take the surname of their husbands, except in
the case of duchesses, countesses and baronesses, who, when
they marry gentlemen of inferior degree, retain their first name
and title, which, for the ambition of the said ladies, is rather
allowed than commended. But although the women there are
entirely in the power of their husbands except for their lives, yet
they are not kept so strictly as they are in Spain or elsewhere.
Nor are they shut up, but they have the free management
of the house or housekeeping, after the fashion of those of
the Netherlands and others their neighbours. They go to
market to buy what they like best to eat. They are well-
dressed, fond of taking it easy, and commonly leave the care of
household matters and drudgery to their servants. They sit
before their doors, decked out in fine clothes, in order to see
and be seen by the passers-by. 3 In all banquets and feasts they
are shown the greatest honour ; they are placed at the upper
end of the table, where they are the first served ; at the lower
end they help the men. All the rest of their time they employ
in walking and riding, in playing at cards or otherwise, in
visiting their friends and keeping company, conversing with
their equals (whom they term gosseps) and their neighbours, and
making merry with them at child-births, christenings, church-
ings (kerckganghen), and funerals ; and all this with the permis-
sion and knowledge of their husbands, as such is the custom.

a " Sy sitten verciert voor haer Deuren, om de voorbygaenders te besien, ofte
van die besien te worden."

England as seen by Foreigners. 73

Although the husbands often .recommend to them the pains,
industry, and care of the German or Dutch women, who do what
the men ought to do both in the house and in the shops, for which
services in England men are employed, nevertheless the women
usually persist in retaining their customs. This is why England
is called the Paradise of married women. 3 The girls who are
not yet married are kept much more rigorously and strictly
than in the Low Countries.

The women are beautiful, fair, well-dressed and modest, b
which is seen there more than elsewhere, as they go about the
streets without any covering either of huke or mantle (huycke),
hood, veil, or the like. Married women only wear a hat both
in the street and in the house ; those unmarried go without a
hat, although ladies of distinction have lately learnt to cover
their faces with silken masks or vizards, and feathers, — for
indeed they change very easily, and that every year, to the
astonishment of many. 112 (Van Meteren, Nederl. Historie ;
edit. 16 14, fo. 258.)

* See Note 31.

b " Het Vrouwenvolck isser schoon, wit, ende verciert ende manierlijck."

IV.

LEVINUS LEMNIUS,

1560.

TRANSLATED FROM THE LATIN.

NOTES ON ENGLAND, 1560.

BY LEVINUS LEMNIUS.

The author was a Dutch physician, of Zierikzee, in Zealand, where he prac-
tised during upwards of forty years. After the death of his wife, he exchanged
the medical for the ecclesiastical profession — the cure of bodies for the cure of
souls — and became a canon of St. Livinus at his native place, where he died in
1568, aged sixty-three. (Paquot. Hist. lift, des Pays-Bas, i. 91.) The descrip-
tion of England given below is extracted from a rare little volume, in black
letter, published at London in 1581, and entitled, " The Touchstone of Com-
plexions. Generallye appliable, expedient and profitable for all such as be
desirous and carefull of theyr bodyly health. . . . Fyrst wrytten in Latine
by Levine Lemnie, and now Englished by Thomas Newton." The translator
dedicates it to Sir William Brooke, Knight, Baron of Cobham, and Lord Warden
of the Cinque Ports — and dates from ' Butley in Chesshyre, zznd Sept. 1576.'
The original Latin work was published at Antwerp in 1561, under the title of
" Levini Lemnii, medici Zirizsi, de habitu et constitutione corporis, quam
Graeci Kpaaiv, Triviales Complexionem vocant, libri duo." — It was frequently
reprinted. Lemnius wrote several other works, chiefly on medical subjects,
some of which have been translated into English. His Latin is remarkable for
its purity and elegance. Tom Coryat, in his Crudities, 1 6 1 1 , p. 649, calls
Lemnius an "admirable sweete scholler, a worthy ornament of Learning."

OT long agone/ traveylinge into that flourishinge
Ilande, partly to see the fashions of that wealthy
Country, wyth men of fame and worthinesse so
bruited and renowmed, and partely to visite

a " Estate superiore," i. e. the preceding summer.

jS England as seen by Foreigners.

William Lemnie, in whose company and weldoing I greatly
rejoyce (as a father can not but doe) and take singuler conten-
tation inwardly ; even at my first arrivall at Dover, and so
along my journey toward London, which I dispatched partely
uppon horsebacke and partely by water, I sawe and noted many
thinges able to ravishe and allure any man in the worlde, with
desyre to travayle and see that so noble a countrey. For
beeinge broughte by D. [z. e. Doctor] Lemnie (a skilfull
Physicion and well thought of there for his knowledge and
experience) into the company of honourable and worshipfull
personages, every Gentleman and other woorthy person shewed
unto mee (being a straunger borne and one that never had
beene there before) all pointes of most frendly curtesy ; and
taking & mee first by the hand, lovingly embraced and bad mee
ryght hartely welcome. For they be people very civil and wel
affected to men well stricken in yeares, and to such as beare
any countenaunce and estimation of lerninge, which thing
they that halfe suspect and have not had the full triall of the
maners and fashions of this countrey, will skarcely bee
perswaded to beleeve.

Therefore, franckely to utter what I thincke of the incredible
curtesie and frendlines in speache and affability used in this
famous realme, I muste needes confesse it doth surmount and
carye away the pricke and price of al others. And beside this,
the neate cleanlines, the exquisite finenesse, the pleasaunte and
delightfull furniture in every poynt for household, wonderfully
rejoysed mee ; their chambers and parlours strawed over with
sweete herbes refreshed mee ; their nosegayes finely enter-
mingled wyth sundry sortes of fragraunte floures in their
bedchambers and privy roomes, with comfortable smell cheered

England as seen by Foreigners. 79

mee up and entirelye delyghted all my sences. And this do I
thinck to be the cause that Englishmen, lyving by such hole-
some and exquisite meate, and in so holesome and healthfull
ayre be so freshe and cleane coloured : their faces, eyes and
countenaunce carying with it and representing a portly grace
and comely nes, geveth out evident tokens of an honest mind ;
in language very smoth and allective, but yet seasoned and
tempered within the limits and bonds of moderation, not
bumbasted with any unseemely termes or infarced with any
clawing flatteries or allurementes. At their tables althoughe
they be very sumptuous, and love to have good fare, yet
neyther use they to overcharge themselves with excesse of
drincke, neyther thereto greatly provoke and urge others, but
suffer every man to drincke in such measure as best pleaseth
hymselfe, whych drinck being eyther Ale or Beere, most
pleasaunte in tast and holesomely relised, they fetch not from
foreine places, but have it amonge themselves brewed. As
touching theyr populous and great haunted cities, the fruit-
fulnes of their ground and soile, their lively springs and mighty
ryvers, their great heards and flockes of cattell, their mysteries
and art of weaving and clothmaking, their skilfulnes in
shooting, it is needlesse heere to discourse — seeing the multi-
tude of marchaunts exercisinge the traffique and arte of mar-
chaundize among them, and ambassadoures also sente thyther
from forrayne Prynces, are able aboundantly to testifye that
nothing needeful and expedient for mans use and commodity
lacketh in that most noble Ilande. (The Touchstone of Com-
plexions, fo. 47.)

Neere approaching to them \i. e. the Italians] in quality
(but yet somewhat differing) are Englishmen: who being of

8o England as seen by Foreigners.

heate more weake and lesse boylinge (as the which is well enter-
medled, overcome and qualefyed by moistnes) are of stature
comely and proportionable, and of body lusty and wel com-
plexioned. But to the studies of humanity not so greatly
given, and in exquisite artes not so well furnished. But if
they hold on theyr course as they beginne, I meane, to apply
theyr mindes to worthy and excellent matters, theyr dexterity for
the attaynment of any notable atchieuaunce surpasseth, and theyr
forwardnes to any artes or mysteries, is foud to be right apt
and inclynable. And because they haue somwhat thick spyrits,
slenderly perfused with heate, they will stomacke a matter
vehemently, and a long time lodge an inward grudge in their
hearts, wherby it happeneth that when theyr rage is up, they
will not easily be pacified, neither can theyr high and hauty
stomackes lightly be conquered, otherwise then by submission,
and yeelding to theyr mynde and appetite. (Fo. i8.) a

The better to qualefie and mitigate this heate [in " soultery
hoate weather," or " dogge-dayes"], it shalbe very good to sprinckle
on the pavements and coole the floores of our houses or cham-
bers with springing water, and then to strew them over with
sedge, and to trimme up our parlours with greene boughes,
freshe herbes or vine leaves ; which thing although in the Low
Country it be usually frequented, yet no nation more decently,
more trimmely, nor more sightly then they doe in Englande.
(Fo. 47.)

a The marginal note against the above passage is, " Englishmen and Scottes
have great stomacks and angry."

V.
HIERONYMUS TURLER,

J 574-

TRANSLATED FROM THE LATIN.

REMARKS ON ENGLAND, 1574.

BY HIERONYMUS TURLER.

The Author was a Doctor of Laws, born at Leissnig in Saxony, in 1550.
He was Burgomaster of his native place, and died 1602. He wrote, among'
other works, '* De Peregrinatione et Agro Neapolitano libri II." Argentorati
(Strasburg), 1574, sm. 8vo. In the following year an English translation
appeared at London, with the title of " The Traveller of Jerome Turler,'' &c.
from which our extracts are taken.

}T page 25, the Author remarks : " As the arte
of printing is as much frequented in England as
in Germanie and Fraunce, in Ireland it is nothing
so, and yet Ireland lyeth neere unto England,
and under obedience to y e same Queene. The Englishmen ar
excellent archers, but the Irishmen bee better, and more experte
in swimming, excellinge all other nacions of Europe in running
and diving under water."

In speaking of the churches at Naples and of the principal
monuments therein, he remarks (p. 175): "Truly these four
tumbes are the most principall of all that ever I sawe either in
Italye, or Fraunce, or Germanie, or in England ; for as for Spayne,
I was never there. But amongst al that are seene in any of these
above named regions, made of brasse or copper, in my judge-

84 England as seen by Foreigners.

ment, the Tumbe of Kinge Henrie the Seventh King of
Englande surpasseth the residew, whiche standeth in the Abbey
of Westminster nigh to the Citie of London, with an inscrip-
tion in Latine verses [on the frieze of the monument : —

' Septimus hie situs est Henricus, gloria Regum
Cunctorum, ipsius qui tempestate fuerunt.
Ingenio atque opibus, gestarum et nomine rerum,
Accessere quibus naturze dona benign* :
Frontis honos, facies augusta, Heroica forma :
Junctaque ei suavis Conjux, perpulehra, pudica,
£t facunda fuit, fcelices prole parentes,
Henricum quibus Octavum terra Anglia debes.'] *

Which may thus bee Englished : —

' Kinge Henrie the seventh heere lieth in this place,
The glorie of all Kinges that lived at his age
In wit and wealth, and deedes of noble grace.
To whom befell the gifts of nature for vauntage.
A princelie countenaunce, a favour grave and sage,
A comly personage, and bewtie heroicall :
And ech poinct of venustie ioyned therwithall.

Unto him was coupled in wedlock's pleasant band

An amiable Spouse in beautie right divine,

Bashfull and verteous, and like a frutefull land

Plentiful] of children, sprong forth of princely line.

Right happie parentes their issue so doth shine.

To whom, o England, these thanks thou owest of right

That ever Henrie the 8 was borne into thy sight.'

All the whole Toumbe is gilten over, and it shineth faire,
being round beset with precious stones but of the meanest
sorte ; it hath in it also many turned and carved pillers, and
very lyke unto this are the monumentes of the Kinges of Fraunce
in Sainct Denise churche."

See Dart's " History of Westminster Abbey," vol. i. p. 157.

VI.

SAMUEL KIECHEL,

1585.

TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN.

^$=0*2*

ENGLAND AND THE ENGLISH, 1585.

BY SAMUEL KIECHEL.

The writer from whom the following extracts are taken was a merchant of Ulm,
in Suabia, born 1563, died 1619. He employed several years of his youth
(1585-1589) in travelling through most of the countries of Europe and a part of
Asia. On his return he wrote an account of his peregrinations, the original
manuscript of which, consisting of 545 folio pages, is said to be carefully pre-
served by his descendants at Ulm. (Weyermann's " Neue Nachrichten von
Gelehrten aus Ulm," 1829, p. 218.) The copy referred to by Weyermann, as
being deposited in the City Library of Ulm, is no longer to be found there. A
contemporary copy of the MS. is in the possession of Herr Nusser.

Kiechel left Ulm, May 24, 1585. On September 8th he embarked at Flushing
for Dover, andp roceeded towards London in the night of Saturday and Sunday,
the 1 1 th and 1 2th of September. He lodged at the sign of the White Bear, and
remained in London and its neighbourhood until October 29th, when he was
an eye-witness to the ceremony of inaugurating the Lord Mayor, Sir Wolstan
Dixie. 113 He then set out on a trip to Scotland, returning to London,
November 14th. On the 17th he was at Canterbury, and on the 21st he left
England. The Baron Joseph von Hormayr published some extracts from
Kiechel's Journal, in the " Archiv fur Geographie, Historie, Staats-und Kriegs-
kunst" (4to. Wien, 1820), p. 267, from whence our notes are translated, but he
has omitted to give the exact date of Kiechel's visit. For some of the above par-
ticulars we are indebted to Herr Kohn, the Librarian of the Stadtbibliothek at Ulm.

IIECHEL saw Queen Elizabeth at Richmond.
The yeomen of the guard by whom she was sur-
rounded were clad in red cloth, with roses em-
broidered in gold upon their breasts and backs.
They were all " splendid {herrliche), tall, strong, and large men,

88 England as seen by Foreigners.

like half-giants (halbe Riesen), so that one would not easily see
their like again." Men and women, when they passed her Majesty,
fell on their knees, and exclaimed, with uplifted hands, Gott
sauve the Qjuene. Even nobles are accustomed to kneel on one
knee when they are conversing with her.

He was present at the election and swearing-in of the Lord
Mayor in the " Tower," and also attended the procession to and
from Westminster Abbey. The ceremonies observed on the
occasion, which he minutely describes, are precisely the same
as those that take place now.

When speaking of the London stage, Kiechel says, that there
are some peculiar (sonderbare, i. e. besondere) houses, which are
so constructed that they have about three galleries one above
the other. As in all his travels he only mentions the theatres
in London, it is probable that there were then no regular play-
houses elsewhere, or it may be that the rows of seats one above
the other appeared remarkable in the eyes of our traveller. It
may indeed happen, he continues, that the players take from
fifty to sixty dollars, [£io to £12,] at a time, particularly if
they act any thing new, when people have to pay double. And
that they perform nearly every day in the week ; notwith-
standing plays are forbidden on Friday and Saturday, this pro-
hibition is not observed.

I will here take occasion to remark that towards the end of
the sixteenth century, it would seem that either players, or a
greater love for mimic representations, or a certain species of
dramatic exhibitions, had passed over from England into Ger-
many. The celebrated Johann Valentin Andrese mentions
English actors in his Autobiography, 111 and Schorer's printed
Chronicle of Memmingen notices, under the year 1600, that

England as seen by Foreigners. 89

Englishmen had performed upon the Salzstadel there. 115 But
even should this appellation have been at that time current as
a general name for players, it must yet have originated from
some historical foundation. It is quite possible that Kiechel
may have witnessed the acting of Shakespeare, the greatest of
dramatic poets, as a tyro on the stage.

For hanging, the English have no regular executioner ; they
take for this business a butcher, and whoevergis called upon is
obliged to perform it. The criminal, seated in the cart,
has one end of a rope tied round his neck, and the other is
fastened to the gallows ; the cart then moves on, and the con-
demned wretch is left hanging ; friends and acquaintances pull
at- his legs, in order that he may be strangled the sooner.

On Kiechel's departure from England, the news arrived of a
Spanish ship having been captured by Drake, in which it was
said there were two millions of uncoined gold and silver in
ingots ; 50,000 crowns in coined reals, 7000 hides, four chests
of pearls, each containing two bushels {Buschelri), and some
sacks of cochineal. The whole was valued at twenty-five
barrels of gold a - (Tonnen Golds) ; it was said to be one year and
a-half's tribute from Peru. 116

The royal treasures and tapestries are kept only in that
palace in which for the time being the Queen resides ; when
she removes to another, everything is taken away, and only the
bare walls remain standing.

Of English manners, Kiechel remarks : " Item, the women
there are charming, and by nature so mighty pretty {m'dchtig
schon), as I have scarcely ever beheld, for they do not falsify

a Equal to 2,500,000 dollars, or 500,000/.
N

90 England as seen by Foreigners.

(ketzerri), paint or bedaub themselves as in Italy or other
places ; but they are somewhat awkward in their style of dress
(in der Kleidung was Plumps geheri) ; a for they dress in splendid
stuffs, and many a one wears three cloth gowns or petticoats,
one over the other. Item, when a foreigner or an inhabitant
goes to a citizen's house on business, or is invited as a guest, and
having entered therein, he is received by the master of the house,
the lady, or the daughter, and by them welcomed (willkommen
heisst), — as it is termed in their language — he has even a right
to take them by the arm and to kiss them (zu kiisseri), which is
the custom of the country, and if any one does not do so, it is
regarded and imputed as ignorance and ill-breeding on his part :
the same custom is also observed in the Netherlands." 1 ' 7

"■ Baron von Hormayr observes here in a parenthesis : — "For which they are
still blamed now-a-days ; " this ungallant remark was made, be it remembered,
in the year i8zo.

VII.
NOTES ON LONDON AND WESTMINSTER,

1592.

BY JOHN NORDEN, Surveyor.

From his " Description of Middlesex."

(British Museum, Harl. MS. 570.)

SSSB^SS'

NOTES ON LONDON AND WESTMINSTER,

BY JOHN NORDEN.

^OMERSETT HOWSE, scytuate in the Strond So MERSE t
nere the Thamise, buylded by the late Duke of H °" fE '
Somerset, not fully finished, yet a most stately
howse, and of greate receyte ; havinge cheife
prospecte towardes the sowth. And the sweete river of the
Thamise offereth manie pleasinge delightes, [the fey Ides also
and the ayre sweete and pleasaunt. This howse her Ma lie hath
disposed unto] the right honorable lorde Hunsedon, Lorde
Chamberlayne to her Ma* 10 hath under her Ma tie the use therof. a

THE PrINCIPALL MeANES WHERBY THIS CYTIE IS RELEEVED. City of West -

MINSTER.

Comon experience teacheth that noe cytie, state, or comon
weale be it never so glorious, can longe contynue, without some
trade, traffique or meane of releefe.

a The above description was omitted in the printed edition of Norden's
"Middlesex'' of 1593, and also in subsequent editions. The passages within
brackets have been struck out in the manuscript. Norden's Notes have been
introduced here as affording an appropriate illustration to the Journal of Duke
Frederick of Wirtemberg of the same year.

94 England as seen by Foreigners.

This Cytie of Westminster is known to have noe generall
trade, wherby releefe might be administred unto the people, as
of themselves, yet doe they live, and manie of them welthely.
[The meanes therfore that they have are to be considered ;
that they may be rather furthered to their content then hindred
to their decaye.]

The first and principall meane then, wherby their habilities
are increased and their estates mayntayned is her Ma" M residence
at Whytehall and S. Jeames, whence if her Ma tie be long
absent, they beginn to complayne of penury and want, of a
harde and miserable worlde. And therfore do the people in
manner, in generall, seeme [but rather of custom than of devo-
tion perchaunce] to powre fourth daylie peticions in their comon
conference, that it might please God to send her Ma" e to one of
theis places. Havinge her highnes presence they rejoyce, they
tryumph, they flourishe, and they thryve, some by victualinge,
some by lodginge courtyers, some by one meanes, some by
another ; they are all glad, and fare well. And noe dowbt but
they coulde wishe in their hartes that Whytehall were her
Ma fo comon abode. But alas, what then shoulde other
places that stand upon lyke termes doe ? Therfore hath her
highnes a gratious consideration to visit theis places, alternis
vicebus, and as it were, by turne, as muche for the comforte and
releefe of all, as for her highnes owne pry vate pleasure. Ther-
fore ye Cytizens of Westminster, and the reste, be not forgetfull
of her gratious care of your comforte, and make your hartie
peticions unto the Kinge of Kinges, to mayntayne her our
prosperinge Quene longe, and manie yeares, and every faythfull
heart will joyne with you, havinge also the benefit of her blessed
inclynation.

England as seen by Foreigners. 95

The 2 meane wherby this Cytie is maynteyned and the
people releved, is, the 4 termes in the yeare, for it hath
pleased God to establish amonge them the place wher justice,
law, and every mannes right is (God graunt it) with equall
ballaunce indifferently administred, wherunto greate multitudes
of people usually flocke and resort : whose companie, althowgh
the cytizens enjoye but the forenoones, yet yeldeth their pre-
sence manie pence to the poore town. Ther was in the time of
Edw. I. a discontynuance of the law in London, whence it was
removed to Yorke, wher it contynued seven yeares, and then
reduced to London. It hath bene so discontynued often,
throwgh disfavour of princes, by conceyved displeasure agaynst
the inhabitants of the place, as a punishment, which may be
taken as a premonition to yow the inhabitants of this Cytie [of
Westminster] that noe offence be comitted to move her Ma tic to
conceyve evell of yow, least she forsake yow, and withdraw the
place of the determynacion of the law from your quarter, and
place it ellswhere.

The 3 and last meane is that great and generall convention
and consultation of all the estates of the lande, the high courte
of Parliament [when it pleaseth her Ma* to cause the same to
be sumoned] w ch causeth a great assembly both of the nobilitie
and inferiour persons to give attendaunce within this Cytie, w ch
is noe small releefe unto the same w ch also wee reed, hath bene
helde at dyvers other places within this realme. And maye be
at her Ma ties pleasure also removed hence.

Theis are the moste principall meanes wherby this Cytie is
maynteyned and wheron it dependeth, w ch beinge but discon-
tynued weakeneth the same, but were they taken away, it could
not but perish. Lamentable is the time present, wherin even

96 England as seen by Foreigners.

now the judgements of God seeme to be hotly incensed agaynste
the cyties both of London and Westminster, for he hath sent
fourth his worde of displeasure and caused the ayre to be pesti-
lently infected ; wherthrowgh great mortalitie ensueth : which
banisheth manie from the Cyties that were inhabitants, and pre-
vented! the cominge of others, to the great hindraunce of the
people. But which more is, and to the more mayn discom-
fiture and hindraunce of states of theis Cyties, this present
Michas terme, the most beneficiall of all the reste, is removed
from Westminster to Hertforde, to the great decaye of the
comen state of the poore inhabitants of Westminster. But this
corruption seemeth in manner generally dispersed in manie
quarters of the realme w ch showeth the corruption of our
conversations to be generall, not only of Westminster, but of
east, west, north, and south ; all have corrupted their wayes, and
a more gentle correction the Lorde can not lay upon us ; it is in
love, to call us to reformation, and without spedy and hartye
repentaunce, we shall lykewise perish."
Westminster Westminster Hall is known to manie, a terror to a multi-
Hall ' tude and a golden myne to some: a hundred clowted shoose

in euerye shire will shake me up if I wryte awrye of this, for
they know tis a great howse, they find it a chargeable howse,
and they love little, for the most parte, to visit this howse.

This stately buyldinge, a buyldinge of great maiestye, having
the name of Westminster Hall, as some and the most doe
imagine of the greatnes of the hall so farr excedinge in magni-
tude all other halls. [But I rather gather that it was so called
before the resort nor dowbt of contynuall concourse of the

a This doleful description of the Westminster of 1592 differs somewhat from,
and is more extended than, that printed in the following year.

England as seen by Foreigners. 97

people therunto for the determinacion of causes at the severall
courts therin helde]. We know that a hall thowgh it be one
member of the howse, and that the principally yet the whole
howse oftentimes beareth the name of hall, as Whyte hall, New
hall, Copte hall, and infinite moe ; so I gather that this whole
howse of the new pallace hath the name of Westminster Hall,
in regarde it was Aula Regis, a princes courte, a royall and
kingly howse. But of the founder there is varietie amonge
wryters."

Ther is adjoininge unto this famous temple, in the easte henry vii.s
ende therof a Chappell erected by H. 7, the bewtie and curious
contriued worke wherof, passeth my sky 11 at lardge to sett
down, so sumptuous, so curious, and so full of exquisite arte it
is, both within and without. And which is not least to be con-
sidered, the foundacion is most artificially proportioned, and it
showeth most exquisyte inuencion and skill, in the M r buylder :
for the foundacion is the guyde to extruct a formall and artifi-
cill worke. Out of this curious foundacion groweth (as Lealand
sayth) Orbis miraculum — the wounder of the worlde, in regarde
of the most curious and artificiall workemanship therof; where-
fore I dare not wade too farr in discrybing the bewtie and
forme therof, least my sences and skyll faylinge me, I be
forced to retire w lh out performinge what I began. Only thus
much I dare aduenture to reporte, that whoso beholdeth the
exteriour partes, w th due concideracion of euerye matter of sin-
guler arte, will confesse it to be a worke, wherof (be he neuer
so wise or elloquent) he can not sufficiently demonstrate euerye
perticuler poynt of bewtie, that therin may be noted. But

" Omitted in the printed editions.
O

98 England as seen by Foreigners.

beholding w th judgement, the body and internall glorie, he shall
finde it so admirable both in the vautinge on the roofe, in
regarde of the curiosetie of the work, as also in the proportion ;
and the walls, wyndowes and the rest so exquisytly performed,
that he will deeme it to be the only rare worke in the worlde,
and as Lealande sayth the wounder of the worlde. This mirror
of art and architecture], is not only in it selfe bewtifull, but it
is also bewtified w th manie rare and glorious monuments and
curious sepulcres of Kinges and Quenes, amonge whome the
founder lyeth, H. 7, under a most royall toombe framed and
artificially formed wholy of brasse, richlye layde over w th golde,
w ch now seemeth somthing to have lost the bewtie. a
old palace at Ther is nere this famous Chappell [Henry Vllth's] a place
called the Olde Pallace, w ch was somtime the pallace of a Kinge,
thowgh now browght to y e grounde, and greene grasse grow
wher it stood. . . . This place w oh now carieth the name of the
Olde Pallace, showeth it selfe to have bene, in times paste, full
of buyldinges. Ther are apparant tokens in a wall yet stand-
inge, that ther were manie vautes, sellers, and such like offices
in that place w ch now is a playne feylde; ther are yet certeyne
towres standinge, adioyning unto the Colledge wall, w ch seeme to
have bene parcell of that Pallace ; manye buyldinges have bene
towardes the mill and upon the Thames syde, extendinge as farr
as St. Stephenes Chappell, the olde buyldinges, ioyninge unto the
same belonged unto this olde pallace, w ch was consumed w lh fire
in the time of Edwarde the Confessor.

a In the printed edition of 1593, the description of Henry the Vll.'s Chapel
occupies only eight lines ; and that of the Old Palace which follows, three lines
only.

England as seen by Foreigners. 99

Growinge now by order to make vew of her Ma ts [Majesty's] Whitehall
howses, the first, from this former new pallace, y' ofFereth it selfe
in vew is the glorious Whyte hall, a regall mancion scytuate
upon the Thamise [nere Charing] bewtefull and lardge, adorned
w lh manie fayre galleries, stately furnished w th moste artificiall
and dilectable pictures, tables, and such like princely orna-
ments. [A most lardge and princely garden full of pleasaunt
walks and other delightes, an orcharde also replenished w th like
pleasures thowgh the place more solitarye.]

From the Pallace is a verye statlye passage to the Thamise
for her Ma tle to take bardge, to passe at her pleasure the plea-
sant streame. A passage not inferiour to the former, leadeth
also into the Parke called by the name of S' Jeames parke, but
it aunswereth as fitlye unto this Whyte hall, much might be
spoken of the ellegancye of this howse ; it resteth to show by
whom it was buylded.

It is sayde ther was a beginninge by Cardynall Woulsey. But
the famous Kinge Hen. the 8, browght it by great expence unto
this princely forme, and erected also the 1 new gates leadinge
to Kingstreete in Westminster : gates full of bewtie and state ;
he caused also to be erected for recreacion, the Tennyes Courtes,
the bowling allyes, cockpittes, and other places of exercise, nere
this princely hall, [as the Tylt rayle for the mayntenaunce and
exercise of martial feates. And manie have bene the triumphant
showes, most glorious to all beholders, which have bene in her
Ma lies dayes, whose gratious eyes, God voutsaufe to beholde w lh
comforte manie more. So shall her manie thowsand thowsande
poor subjectes triumphe in her princely presence.] 3

a Norden was satisfied with one line and a-half for this description in his
printed work.

St. James's
Palace.

The Deanery
at Westmin-
ster.

Hvde Park.

ioo England as seen by Foreigners.

Not farr from this glorious hall, another of her highnes
howses, descryeth it selfe, of a quadrate forme, erected of brick,
the exterior shape wherof althowgh it appeare w' h out anie
sumptuous or superfluous devises ; yet is the plott verie princely,
and the same w lh arte contrived, within and without. [It standeth
from other buyldinges, about 2 furlonge, saving a ferme howse
opposite agaynste the north gate. But the scytuacion is pleasant,
indued with a good ayre and pleasant prospects, on the east
London offereth it self in vew ; in the sowth the stately buyld-
inges of Westminster, w ,h the pleasant parke and the delightes
therof ; on the north the grene feeldes. It was buylded by
Kinge Hen. the 8. J

Not farr from this place was founde the bone of a man of
an admirable magnitude of late yeares, by a man laboringe in a
gravel pitt, as it is reported, the vew wherof I have desired, but
it is broken and spoyled [as they saye.] a

In the south side of S. Peters Church [the Abbey], annexed
unto the walls of the same, the Deane of Westminster, now
D. Goodman, hath his mansion howse, wherunto adjoyneth
fayre cloysters, lardge lodginges, pleasaunt walkes, and manie
auncient buyldinges, w ch in time paste have bene helde in great
price in regarde of the delightes they dyd administer unto the
abbott, munks and fryers, whoe were removed thence about
the time of H[enry] 7, and a Deane established w th certeyne
prebendes.

Hyde parke substancially impayled with a fayre lodge and
princelye standes therin. It is a stately parke and full of fayre
game. The right honorab. Lo. Hunsdon, Lorde Chamblayne
to her M tic M[aste]r of the game.

a Omitted in the printed editions.

VIII.
PAUL HENTZNER,

1598.
TRANSLATED FROM THE LATIN.

EXTRACTS FROM PAUL HENTZNER'S
TRAVELS IN ENGLAND,

1598.

This interesting Journal was penned by Paul Hentzner, a native of Branden-
burg, a jurist by profession, and counsellor to Duke Charles of Miinsterberg and
Oels. He was a man possessed of great and various attainments, and in August
and September of the above-mentioned year visited this country as companion or
travelling tutor to Christoph Rehdiger, a young nobleman of Silesia. Some
Bohemians — one of whom was the celebrated Slawata — joined company in seeing
the sights in England, and the party would seem to have journeyed on horseback.
The author died in 1623. The first edition of the original Latin Itinerary of
Germany, France, &c. appeared at Nuremberg in 161 2, in 4to. Horace Walpole
printed in 1757, for private circulation, the portion relating to England, with an
English translation — omitting however the dates of visit. Although this is gene-
rally quoted as Walpole's translation, it was made by Richard Bentley, the son of
the celebrated Master of Trinity. This version we have used for the extracts
which follow, and have revised, enlarged, and annotated the same, while other
extracts, descriptive of places visited by Hentzner, are distributed among the Notes
at the end of our volume.

LIZABETH, the reigning Queen of England, was Queen
born at the Royal Palace of Greenwich, and here Greenwich.
she generally resides, particularly in summer, for
the delightfulness of its situation. We were ad-
mitted by an order, which Mr. Rogers (Daniel Rogerius) had

1 04 England as seen by Foreigners.

procured from the Lord Chamberlain, into the Presence-Chamber
hung with rich tapestry, and the floor, after the English fashion,
strewed with hay, a through which the Queen commonly passes
in her way to chapel. At the door stood a gentleman dressed in
velvet, with a gold chain, whose office was to introduce to the
Queen any person of distinction that came to wait on her.
It was Sunday [Sept. 6, n. s.], when there is usually the greatest
attendance of nobility. In the same hall were the Archbishop of
Canterbury, the Bishop of London, a great number of Counsellors
of State, Officers of the Crown, and Gentlemen, who waited the
Queen's coming out, which she did from her own apartment
when it was time to go to prayers, attended in the following
manner : —

First went Gentlemfen, Barons, Earls, Knights of the Garter,
all richly dressed and bareheaded ; next came the Lord High
Chancellor of England, bearing the seals in a red silk purse, be-
tween two, one of whom carried the royal sceptre, the other the
sword of state in a red scabbard, studded with golden fleur-de-
lis, the point upwards ; next came the Queen, in the 65th year
of her age (as we were told), very majestic ; her face oblong, fair
but wrinkled; her eyes small, yet black and pleasant; her nose
a little hooked, her lips narrow, and her teeth black, (a defect
the English seem subject to, from their too great use of sugar) ; b
she had in her ears two pearls with very rich drops ; her hair
was of an auburn colour, but false (crinem fulvum, sed facti-
tiuni) ; 118 upon her head she had a small crown, reported to be
made of some of the gold of the celebrated Luneburg table ; "°
her bosom was uncovered, as all the English ladies have it till

" " Foeno." He probably means rushes. — Walpole. b See Note 20.

England as seen by Foreigners. 105

they marry ; and she had on a necklace of exceeding fine jewels ;
her hands were slender, her fingers rather long, and her stature
neither tall nor low ; her air was stately, her manner of speaking
mild and obliging. That day she was dressed in white silk,
bordered with pearls of the size of beans, and over it a mantle of
black silk shot with silver threads; her train was very long, the
end of it borne by a marchioness ; instead of a chain, she had an
oblong collar of gold and jewels. As she went along in all this
state and magnificence, she spoke very graciously, first to one,
then to another (whether foreign ministers, or those who attend
for different reasons), in English, French, and Italian ; for
besides being well skilled in Greek, Latin, and the languages I
have mentioned, she is mistress of Spanish, Scotch, and Dutch
(Belgicum). Whoever speaks to her, it is kneeling ; now and
then she raises some with her hand. While we were there,
William Slawata, 1 ' 20 a Bohemian baron, had letters to present to
her ; and she, after pulling off her glove, gave him her right
hand to kiss, sparkling with rings and jewels— a mark of par-
ticular favour. Wherever she turned her face as she was
going along, everybody fell down on their knees. The ladies
of the court followed next to her, very handsome and well-
shaped, and for the most part dressed in white. She was
guarded on each side by the gentlemen pensioners, fifty in
number, with gilt halberds. In the ante-chapel, next the
hall where we were, petitions were presented to her, and she
received them most graciously, which occasioned the acclamation
of God save the §>uene Elizabeth ! 121 She answered it with /
thancke you myn good peupel. In the chapel was excellent music;
as soon as it and the service were over, which scarcely exceeded
half-an-hour, the Queen returned in the same state and order,

1 06 England as seen by Foreigners.

and prepared to go to dinner. But while she was still at
prayers, we saw her table set out with the following solemnity : —
A gentleman entered the room bearing a rod, and along with
him another who had a table-cloth, which after they had both
knelt three times, with the utmost veneration, he spread upon
the table, and after kneeling again, they both retired. Then
came two others, one with the rod again, the other with a salt-
cellar, a plate and bread ; when they had knelt as the others
had done, and placed what was brought upon the table, they too
retired with the same ceremonies performed by the first. At
last came an unmarried lady of extraordinary beauty (we were
told that she was a countess) and along with her a married one,
bearing a tasting-knife ; the former was dressed in white silk,
who, when she had prostrated herself three times, in the most
graceful manner approached the table and rubbed the plates
with bread and salt with as much awe as if the Queen had been
present. When they had waited there a little while, the yeomen
of the guard entered, bareheaded, clothed in scarlet, with a
golden rose upon their backs, bringing in at each turn a course
of twenty-four dishes, served in silver most of it gilt ; these dishes
were received by a gentleman in the same order as they were
brought and placed upon the table, while the lady-taster gave
to each of the guard a mouthful to eat of the particular dish he
had brought, for fear of any poison. During the time that this
guard, which consists of the tallest and stoutest men that can be
found in all England, 100 in number, being carefully selected
for this service, were bringing dinner, twelve trumpets and two
kettle-drums made the hall ring for half-an-hour together.
At the end of all this ceremonial, a number of unmarried ladies
appeared, who with particular solemnity lifted the meat off the

England as seen by Foreigners. 1 07

table, and conveyed it into the Queen's inner and more private
chamber, where after she had chosen for herself, the rest goes to
the ladies of the Court. The Queen dines and sups alone
with very few attendants ; and it is very seldom that any body,
foreigner or native, is admitted at that time, and then only at
the intercession of some distinguished personage. 1 "

Near this palace is the Queen's park, stocked with various
wild animals. Such parks are common throughout England,
belonging to those that are distinguished either for their rank
or riches. In the middle of this is an old square tower, called
Mirefleur, supposed to be that mentioned in the Romance of
Amadis de Gaula ; and joining to it a plain, where knights and
other gentlemen use to meet at set times and holidays to exercise
on horseback.

It is worthy of observation, that every year upon St. Bartho- Bartholomew

■ iriivyr Fair, and

lomew's Day, when the Fair is held, it is usual for the Mayor, my lord
attended by the twelve principal Aldermen, to walk into a
neighbouring field, dressed in his scarlet gown, and about his
neck a golden chain, to which is hung a Golden Fleece, and be-
sides, that particular ornament [the collar of SS], which dis-
tinguishes the most noble Order of the Garter. During the year
of his magistracy, he is obliged to live so magnificently that
foreigner or native, without any expense, is free, if he can find a
chair empty, to dine at his table, where there is always the
greatest plenty. When the Mayor goes out of the precincts of
the City, a sceptre, a sword, and a cap are borne before him, and
he is followed by the principal Aldermen in scarlet gowns, with
gold chains ; himself and they on horseback. Upon their arrival
at a place appointed for that purpose, where a tent is pitched,
the mob begin to wrestle before them, two at a time ; the con-

Palace.

108 England as seen by Foreigners.

querors receive rewards from the Mayor. After this is over, a
parcel of live rabbits are turned loose among the crowd, which
boys chase with great noise. While we were at this show, one
of our company, Tobias Salander, Doctor of Physic, had his
pocket picked of his purse, with nine crowns (ecus du soleil),
which without doubt was so cleverly taken from him by an
Englishman who always kept very close to him, that the Doctor
did not in the least perceive it. 1 ' 23

Pockeeidge. A village : this was the first place where we observed that the

beds at inns were made by the waiters.

woooiTocK This palace, abounding in magnificence, was built by Henry

I, to which he joined a very large park, enclosed with a stone
wall ; according to John Rosse, the first park in England. In
this very palace the present reigning Queen Elizabeth, before
she was confined to the Tower, was kept prisoner by her sister
Mary : while she was detained here, in the utmost peril of her
life, she wrote with a piece of charcoal the following English
verses, composed by herself, upon a window-shutter: 124 —

Hentzner. Walpole.

Oh fortune thy Wresting wavering O Fortune ! how thy restless wavering

state, state

Hath franght with Cares my troubled Hath fraught with cares my troubled

vvitt ; wit ! [Fate

Whese witnes this present prisonn late, Witness this present prison whither

Could beare mhere once was Ioy sloune Hath borne me, and the joys I quit.

quitt, Thou causedest the guilty to be loosed

Thon causedst the gniltle to be losed, From bands, wherewith are innocents

Frombandes vvehre innocents vvehre inclosed ;

indosed, Causing the guiltless to be strait re-

And consed the gniltles, te be reserned. served,

And freed these that death had Vvell And freeing those that death had

deserned, well deserved :

England as seen by Foreigners. 109

Butt allhereni canbe nothing Vvronghle, But by her envy can be nothing

So God send to my foes althey have wrought,

tonghle. So God send to my foes all they

Elisabethe the Prisonner. nave thought.

1555. a.d. m.d.lv. Elizabeth Prisoner.

All that remains of Rosamond Clifford's tomb of stone, the
letters of which are almost worn out, is the line —

"* * * * Adorent,

Utque tibi detur requies Rosamunda precamur."

The rhyming epitaph was probably the performance of some
monk : —

" Hie jacet in tumba Rosa mundi non Rosamunda,
Non redolet sed olet, quae redolere solet."

The soil is fruitful and abounds with cattle, which inclines Description of
the inhabitants rather to feeding than ploughing, so that near a mTnnms-and
third part of the land is left uncultivated for grazing. The
climate is most temperate at all times, and the air never heavy,
consequently maladies are scarcer, and less physic is used there
than anywhere else. There are but few rivers. Though the
soil is productive, it bears no wine ; but that want is supplied
from abroad by the best kinds, as of Orleans, Gascon, Rhenish,
and Spanish. The general drink is ale, which is prepared from
barley, and is excellently well tasted, but strong and intoxicating
{cerevisia . . . qua facile eos inebriat). There are many hills
without one tree or any spring, which produce a very short and
tender grass, and supply plenty of food to sheep ; upon these
wander numerous flocks extremely white, and whether from the
temperature of the air or goodness of the earth, bearing softer

Customs.

1 1 o England as seen by Foreigners.

and finer fleeces than those of any other country. This is the
true Golden Fleece, in which consist the chief riches of the inha-
bitants, great sums of money being brought into the island by
merchants, chiefly for that article of trade. The dogs here are
particularly good. It has mines of gold, silver and tin (of which
all manner of table utensils are made, in brightness equal to silver,
and used all over Europe), of lead, and of iron, but not much
of the latter. The horses are small but swift. Glass-houses
are in plenty here.

The English are grave like the Germans, lovers of show ;
followed wherever they go by whole troops of servants, who
wear their masters' arms in silver fastened to their left arms,
and are not undeservedly ridiculed for wearing tails hanging
down their backs. They excel in dancing and music, for they
are active and lively, though of a thicker make than the French ;
they cut their hair close on the middle of the head, letting it
grow on either side ; they are good sailors and better pirates,
cunning, treacherous, and thievish ; above 300 are said to be
hanged annually at London ; beheading with them is less in-
famous than hanging ; they give the wall as the place of
honour ; hawking is the common sport with the gentry. They
are more polite in eating than the French, consuming less bread
but more meat, which they roast in perfection ; they put a
great deal of sugar in their drink ; their beds are covered with
tapestry, even those of farmers ; they are often molested with
the scurvy, said to have first crept into England with the Nor-
man Conquest ; their houses are commonly of two stories,
except in London, where they are of three and four, though but
seldom of four ; they are built of wood, those of the richer sort
with bricks, their roofs are low, and where the owner has

England as seen by Foreigners.

1 1 1

money, covered with lead. They are powerful in the field,
successful against their enemies, impatient of anything like sla-
very ; vastly fond of great noises that fill the ear, such as the firing
of cannon, drums, and the ringing of bells, so that in London
it is common for a number of them that have got a glass in
their heads {qui se inebriaverint) to go up into some belfry, and
ring the bells for hours together, for the sake of exercise. If
they see a foreigner very well made, or particularly handsome,
they will say, " It is a pity he is not an Englishman" (dolore
dicunt quod non sit homo Anghcus, vulgo Englishmen). , 125

September 14th. As we were returning to our inn [at Harvest-home.
Windsor], we happened to meet some country people cele-
brating their Harvest-home (spcilegia sua celebr antes') ; their last
load of corn they crown with flowers, having besides an image
richly dressed, by which perhaps they would signify Ceres ; this
they keep moving about, while men and women, men and maid-
servants, riding through the streets in the cart, shout as loud as
they can till they arrive at the barn. The farmers here do not
bind up their corn in sheaves, as they do with us, but directly
they have reaped or mowed it, put it into carts and convey it
into their barns.

There is a certain sect in England called Puritans. These, puritans
according to the doctrine of the Church of Geneva, reject all
ceremonies anciently held, and admit of neither organs nor epitaphs
in their places of worship, and entirely abhor all difference of
rank among ecclesiastics, such as bishops, abbots, &c. They were
first named Puritans by the Jesuit Sanders. They do not live
separate, but mix with those of the Church of England in the
colleges.

We came to Canterbury on foot. Being tired, we refreshed A * alarm

' near Dover.

112

England as seen by Foreigners.

ourselves with a mouthful of bread and some ale, and immedi-
ately mounted post-horses, and arrived about two or three
hours after nightfall at Dover. In our way to it, which was
rough and dangerous enough, the following accident happened
to us. Our guide or postillion {dux via, vulgo postilion) a
youth, was before with two of our company, about the distance
of a musket-shot, we by not following quick enough had lost
sight of our friends ; we came afterwards to where the road
divided, on the right it was down hill and marshy, on the left
was a small hill ; whilst we stopped here in doubt, and consulted
which of the roads we should take, we saw all on a sudden on
our right-hand some horsemen, their stature, dress, and horses
exactly resembling those of our friends ; glad of having found
them again, we determined to set on after them ; but it hap-
pened through God's mercy, that though we called to them, they
did not answer us, but kept on down the marshy road, at such
a rate that their horses' feet struck fire at every stroke, which
made us with reason begin to suspect that they were robbers,
having had warning of such, or rather that they were nocturnal
spectres, which as we were afterwards told, are frequently
seen in those places ; there were likewise a great many Jack-w'-
a-lanthorns (ignes fatui), so that we were quite seized with horror
and amazement. But fortunately for us, our guide soon after
sounded his horn, and we following the noise, turned down the
left-hand road, and arrived safe to our companions ; who, when
we had asked them if they had not seen the horsemen who had
gone by us ? answered, not a soul. Our opinions, according to
custom, were various upon this matter ; but whatever the thing
was, we were without doubt in imminent danger, from which
that we escaped the glory is to be ascribed to God alone.

Money.

England as seen by Foreigners. 1 1 3

We take ship for Calais (Sept. 24). In our company were Departure and
the noble Lord Wilhelm Slawata, a Bohemian baron, with his engmsV"
servant Corfutius Rudth, a noble Dane, Wilhelm and Adolphus
ab Eynatten, brothers, from Juliers, and Henricus Hoen their
relation. Before we set sail from hence [i. e. Dover], each of us
was obliged to give his name, the reason of his visit to England,
and the place to which he was going. This having been done,
and permission to depart obtained, our valises (vallisite) and
trunks were opened by those who are appointed for this object,
and most diligently examined for the sake of discovering English
money, for no one is allowed to carry out of England more
than ten English pounds. Whatever surplus there may be,
it is taken away and paid into the royal Exchequer. 1 ^

IX.

JUAN FERNANDEZ DE VELASCO,

CONSTABLE OF CASTILE,

1604.

TRANSLATED FROM THE SPANISH.

BANQUET AND ENTERTAINMENT GIVEN BY

JAMES I. TO THE CONSTABLE OF CASTILE

AT WHITEHALL PALACE,

ON SUNDAY, AUG. 1 9, 1604."

Juan Fernandez de Velasco, Duke de Frias, and Constable of Castile, was the
Ambassador empowered by Philip III. to negotiate and conclude a peace
between this country and Spain. At the time of the Constable's arrival at
Somerset House, where he was lodged, (Aug, i§-)> b King James was seventy miles
away from London, engaged in his favourite diversion of hunting, and he was
reluctantly compelled to hasten his return to the capital, in order to attend to the
important business in hand. On Sunday Aug. ij- the ceremony of swearing to
the Peace took place in the Chapel at Whitehall ; after which ensued the

a We have introduced here an etching representing a banquet given at York
House, the residence of the Duke of Buckingham, on Nov. 18, 1623, in
honour of Don Diego Hurtado de Mendoza, the Spanish ambassador who had
accompanied Prince Charles from Spain, Don Carlos Coloma, and Don Diego
Mexia ; his Majesty and the Prince appearing as the entertainers. The original
engraving occurs upon a single folio sheet of letter-press printed at Madrid in
1624, descriptive of the "singular favors" conferred upon the former ambassador
by James I. In the intervening period between the banquet given to the Con-
stable of Castile and that represented in the etching, no material change either in
custom or costume would have been likely to take place; the editor has therefore
thought that the illustration would be both appropriate and acceptable.

b The roth of Aug. in England — the difference between the old and new
styles being ten days at this period.

1 1 8 England as seen by Foreigners.

banquet-scene, which we have translated from the very rare contemporary
Spanish pamphlet in the British Museum (once in King James's own library)
entitled : " Relacion de la Jornada del exc mo Condestable de Castilla, a las pazes
entre Hespana y Inglaterra," &c. printed by Plantin at Antwerp {Anveres) in
1604, 4to. An abstract of this interesting work was made by the late Mr.
Konig and used by Sir H. Ellis (" Original Letters ;" 2nd Ser. vol. 3 . p. 207, &c),
but in this there are some remarkable mistakes, particularly concerning the
Princess Elizabeth, upon whose birthday, on the Sunday above mentioned, the
court-feast, the ball, and the sports herein described, were celebrated.

HE Audience Chamber was elegantly furnished,
having a buffet of several stages, filled with various
pieces of ancient and modern gilt plate of exquisite
workmanship. A railing was placed on each side
of the room in order to prevent the crowd from approaching
too near the table. At the right hand upon entering was
another buffet, containing rich vessels of gold, agate and other
precious stones. The table might be about five yards in length,
and more than one yard broad. The dishes were brought in by
gentlemen and servants of the King, who were accompanied by
the Lord Chamberlain, and before placing them on the table
they made four or five obeisances. The Earls of Pembroke
(Panhrue) and of Southampton 3 officiated as gentlemen-ushers.
Their Majesties with the Prince [Henry] entered after the Con-
stable and the others, and placed themselves at their throne, and
all stood in a line to hear the grace said ; the Constable being at
the King's side and the Count de Villamediana 127 on the Queen's.
Their Majesties washed their hands in the same basin, the Lord
Treasurer handing the towel to the King, and the High Admiral

a Shakespeare's friends and patrons.

England as seen by Foreigners. 1 1 9

to the Queen. The Prince washed in another basin, in which water
was also taken to the Constable, who was waited upon by the
same gentlemen. They took their seats in the following manner :
their Majesties sat at the head of the table, at a distance from
each other, under the canopy of state, the Queen being on the
right hand, on chairs of brocade with cushions ; and at her side,
a little apart, sat the Constable, on a tabouret of brocade with a
high cushion of the same, and on the side of the King the
Prince was seated in like manner. On the opposite side of the
table and on the right sat Count Villamediana, and next to him
the Senator Rovida opposite the Constable; and on the same
side with the Senator, nearly fronting the Prince, were seated the
President Richardot and the Audiencier ; a space in front being
left vacant owing to the absence of the Count d'Arembergue,
who' was prevented by the gout from attending. The principal
noblemen of the kingdom were likewise at the table, in particular
the Duke of Lennox ; the Earl of Arundel ; the Earl of Suffolk,
lord chamberlain ; the Earl of Dorset, lord treasurer ; the Earl
of Nottingham (Nortihari)> high admiral ; the Earls of Devon-
shire (Dernier), of Southampton and of Pembroke ; the Earl of
Northumberland ; the Earl of Worcester (Huester), master of the
horse ; the Earls of Shrewsbury (Sosbren), of Sussex, of Derby
(de Arbe), and of Essex, and the Lord Chancellor — all being
Knights of the Garter ; also Barons Cecil and Wotton (Ottori),
and the Lord Kinloss (Quinglos), a privy councillor ; Sir Thomas
Erskine (Esquin), captain of the guard ; Sir John Ramsay (Juan
Ranse) and James Lindsay (Jayme Linzel), Scotchmen ; and
other barons and gentlemen of quality. There was plenty of in-
strumental music, and the banquet was sumptuous and profuse.
The first thing the King did was to send the Constable a melon

1 20 England as seen by Foreigners.

and half a dozen of oranges on a very green branch, telling him
that they were the fruit of Spain transplanted into England ; to
which the latter, kissing his hand, replied that he valued the gift
more as coming from his Majesty than as being the fruit of his
own country ; he then divided the melon with their Majesties,
and Don Blasco de Aragon handed the plate to the Queen, who
politely and graciously acknowledged the attention. Soon after-
wards the King stood up, and with his head uncovered drank to
the Constable the health of their Spanish Majesties, and may the
peace be happy and perpetual ! The Constable pledged him in
like manner, and replied that he entertained the same hope and
that from the peace the greatest advantages might result to both
crowns and to Christendom. The toast was then drunk by the
Count Villamediana and the others present, to the delight and
applause of their Majesties. Immediately afterwards, the Con-
stable, seeing that another opportunity might not be afforded
him, rose and drank to the King the health of the Queen from
the lid of a cup of agate of extraordinary beauty and richness,
set with diamonds and rubies, praying his Majesty would con-
descend to drink the toast from the cup, which he did accordingly,
and ordered it to be passed round to the Prince and the others \
and the Constable directed that the cup should remain in his
Majesty's buffet. At this period the peopled shouted out:
Peace, -peace, peace ! God save the King ! God save the King !
God save the King ! and a king at arms presented himself before
the table, and after the drums, trumpets, and other instruments
had sounded, with a loud voice said in English : — ' that the
kingdom returned many thanks to his Majesty for having
concluded with the King of Spain so advantageous a peace, and
he prayed to God that it might endure for many ages, and his

England as seen by Foreigners. 1 2 1

subjects hoped that his Majesty would endeavour with all his
might to maintain it, so that they might enjoy from it tranquillity
and repose, and that security and advantage might result to all
his people ; and therefore they prayed him to allow the same to
be published in the kingdoms and dominions of his Majesty.'
The King gave permission accordingly and the peace was forth-
with proclaimed in that city, the proclamation being repeated at
every fifty paces.

The Constable rose a second time, and drank to the Queen
the health of the King from a very beautiful dragon-shaped cup
of crystal garnished with gold, drinking from the cover, and the
Queen standing up gave the pledge from the cup itself, Don Blasco
de Aragon performing on this occasion the office of cupbearer as
also interpreter to what was spoken by the Constable and the
Queen, on whose \i. e. the Queen's] buffet he ordered that the
cup should remain. After this, the King drank to the President
Richardot and the Audiencier the health of their Highnesses
[the Archdukes] saying in French how much he esteemed them,
and how desirous he was to live on terms of the strictest amity
with them. Soon afterwards the King sent to the Constable an
important message {un gran recaudd) by the Earl of Northampton,
telling him that this was a happy day for him, since he had
made peace on it, and it was the anniversary of his children's
birthdays, the Princess Elizabeth {Isabella) being four years'
old, 128 and therefore he hoped from her name that she might be
the means of preserving the kingdoms of Spain and England in
friendship and union, unlike that other hostile Elizabeth {otra
Isabella enemiga) who had caused so much mischief: hence he
gave the Constable permission to drink the health of his children.
His Excellency drank the toast accordingly, and in reply aptly

122 England as seen by Foreigners.

quoted those lines of Sannazaro on the birth of the Virgin, in
which, describing how our Lady had repaired the evil which Eve
brought upon the world, he says : —

" Cumque caput fuerit tantorumque una malorum
Fcemina principium, lacrimasque et funera terris
Intulerit, nunc auxilium ferat ipsa, modumque
Qua licet afflictis imponat fcemina rebus."

The King now for the fourth time drank to the Constable
the health of the Princess of Spain, 129 and took, this opportunity
to reiterate his desire for the inviolability and durability of the
peace which had been established in spite of knaves and malignant
persons. The Constable made proper acknowledgments for this
message, and asserted that it would be so, and that he hoped
this union would produce important results, to the advantage of
God's service, their Majesties' kingdoms and Christendom. The
banquet now proceeded ; at length, after other healths and mes-
sages from the King and Queen, it was brought to a conclusion,
having lasted about three hours. The cloth having been re-
moved, every one immediately rose up ; the table was placed
upon the ground, 3 and their Majesties standing upon it, pro-
ceeded to wash their hands, which is stated to be an ancient
ceremony. The Constable invited Count Villamediana to wash
in his basin, and the other Commissioners washed in others.
Their Majesties then withdrew to their apartment, and the
Constable and Count were conducted to a handsome gallery,
adorned with various paintings, where they remained more than

* Meaning probably, removed from the dai's. "Pusieron la mesa en el suelo,
y los Reyes, de pies sobre ella para lavarse las manos, como lo hizieron ; que
dizen ser ceremonia antigua."

England as seen by Foreigners. .123

an hour. In the meantime dancing had begun in the said
[Audience] Chamber, and the Constable and Count were in-
formed in the name of their Majesties that they were then
waiting for them to go and see it. Accordingly they proceeded
thither in company of their Majesties, who seated themselves
beneath the canopy of state, and the Constable took his place
close to the King's chair ; next to him sat the Count Villame-
diana, and then the other Commissioners in a row. There
were present at this ball more than fifty ladies of honour, very
richly and elegantly dressed, and extremely beautiful, besides
many others who, with the noblemen and gentlemen that were
present at the dinner, were already engaged in dancing. After
a little while the Prince [Henry] was commanded by his parents
to dance a galliard, and they pointed out to him the lady who
was to be his partner ; and this he did with much sprightliness
and modesty, cutting several capers in the course of the dance
{con algunas cabriolas). The Earl of Southampton then led out
the Queen, and three other gentlemen their several partners,
who all joined in dancing a brando. In another, her Majesty
danced with the Duke of Lennox. After this they began a
galliard, which in Italy is called planton; 130 and in it a lady led out
the Prince, who then led out another lady whom their Majesties
pointed out to him. After this a brando was danced, and that
being over, the Prince stood up to dance a correnta, which he
did very gracefully. The Earl of Southampton was now again
the Queen's partner, and they went through the correnta like-
wise. Hereupon the ball ended, and all then took their places
at the windows of the room which looked out upon a square,
where a platform was raised, and a vast crowd had assembled
to see the King's bears fight with greyhounds (lebreks).' 31 This

1 24 England as seen by Foreigners.

afforded great amusement. Presently a bull, tied to the end of
a rope, was fiercely baited by dogs. After this certain tumblers
came who danced upon a rope, and performed various feats of
agility and skill on horseback. With this ended the entertain-
ment and the day, and their Majesties now retired, being
accompanied by the Constable and the other noblemen to their
apartment, before entering which, many compliments passed on
both sides, and their Majesties and the Prince shook hands with
the Constable and the Count ; and the other Spanish cavaliers
kissed hands and took their departure. The Constable and the
others upon quitting the ball-room were accompanied by the
Lord Chamberlain to the farthest room, and by the Earl of
Devonshire and other gentlemen to their coaches; more than
fifty halberdiers lighting them with torches (con achas) until they
reached home, where as many others were awaiting their arrival.
Being fatigued, the Constable and the Count supped that night
in private, and the others at the ordinary table.

Monday, the 30th. The Constable awoke with a slight attack,
of lumbago {un poco de mal de hijadd).

X.
JOHANN JACOB CRASSER,

CIRCA l6o6.

TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN.

NOTES ON ENGLAND,

CIRCA 1606.

BY JOHANN JACOB GRASSER.

The author was a Swiss historian and pastor, born at Basle, 1579, died 1627.
He studied antiquities in France, and was Professor at Nismes. {Leu's Hel-
vetiscbes Lexicon.} He travelled into England, and returned to his native
country about 1608. He published at Basle in 1610, 8vo. " Frantzosische und
Englische Schatzkammer," &c. The notices " Of the beautiful and powerful
Kingdom of England" occupy pp. 235—264 of this work.

)T is so populous (he says), that the king can bring
into the field 100,000 foot, and 20,000 horse-
men. 135 In former times, the kings of England
regularly maintained ships of war by the hundred ;
but at the present day any considerable number of these, such
as some seventy or eighty, are not seen without the greatest
astonishment. However, the English say for certain, that they
employ daily above 2000 ships on the sea. Speaking of West-
minster Abbey, he says, " Since I was in England, a magnificent
monument has been erected to Queen Elizabeth." In front of
St. Paul's Church, he " saw a Jesuit [Henry Garnet ?], sixty-

1 28 England as seen by Foreigners.

three years of age — an eloquent and daring man — quartered on
account of treason and the gunpowder plot." a The author was
invited to dine with " Milord Maier" through Doctor Medusius,
in company with Herr Eckenstein and H. Meyer.
Richmond. Henry VII. died here. His blood, which he ordered to be

sprinkled on the wall, is still to be seen in the room wherein he
died. 133 Many old written and printed books are in the Palace.
Also a large circular mirror, in which King Henry VII. by
means of magic saw what was passing everywhere both by sea
and land. The secret passages used by this king were first
discovered under Queen Elizabeth. Theobalds is called by
Grasser "-Dieboltz."

a Garnet was executed in St. Paul's Churchyard, May 3rd, 1606. He was
born about the year 1554. — Jardine's Narrative of the Gunpowder Plot.

XI.

JUSTUS ZINZERLING,

CIRCA l6lO.

TRANSLATED FROM THE LATIN.

DESCRIPTION OF ENGLAND,

CIRCA l6lO.

BY JUSTUS ZINZERLING.

The author of this description was a native of Thuringia, and Doctor of Laws
at Basle. Under the name of Jodocus Sincerus, he published his travels, in 1 61 6,
entitled, "Itinerarium Galliae," &c, Lugduni (Lyons), i6mo. It became a
favourite guide-book to those countries which the author had visited, and seems
to have held its ground for about half-a-century, as there are editions 1627, 1649
(with plates), 1655 and 1656. The following extracts are translated from his
"Itineris Anglici brevissima delineatio," at p. 362 of the earliest edition of the
above-mentioned work.

\NE hundred sheep and twelve cows constantly feed Dover.
in the grassy court-yard of the Castle. Henry
VIII's great cannon noticed. The water was
drawn up from the very deep well by an ass and a
mule. Riding post from Dover to Canterbury costs three
English shillings ; from Canterbury to Sittingbourne the same ;
from Sittingbourne to Rochester about two shillings and six-
pence ; from thence to Gravesend, one shilling and sixpence.
Just before coming to Sittingbourne you will see a robber Sitting-
hanging on a tree ; he treacherously killed the messenger
sent from the Elector Palatine to the King of England ; the
body was so surrounded by chains and rings that it would be

Rochester.

Gravesend.

London
Bridge.

Westminster
Abbey.

Whitehall
Palace.

132 England as seen by Foreigners.

likely to last a long time. The inn-keeper at Sittingbourne is a
Scotchman, a very good man, and knows Latin.

Rochester is a handsome city, close by which is the Medway,
where is to be seen the royal fleet of stupendous magnitude ;
some very large ships older than the three-score and ten of
man's age. Pray take the trouble to see the ship Prince, also
the Elizabeth Jonas, the White Bear, the Honour, the Triumph,
which are lying here.

The author recommends the c Flushing ' at Gravesend if you
want to be comfortable : mine host is a Belgian, and a capital
fellow. 134 There is a boat to London. Here you must see the
very elegant bridge of nineteen arches 3 with the houses upon it.
He describes the ceremony of washing the feet of as many poor
persons as the King is old, performed by the Archbishop of
Canterbury in the King's name. At the same time the King
touches those afflicted with the evil. On Tuesday in Easter week
there is a solemn procession of the Mayor and Aldermen to
the church (in templum, i. e. St. Paul's). In this is seen
Linacre's monument. A fine view of the city is beheld from
the lofty tower. Westminster Abbey : here you must observe
the two monuments of Elizabeth and Mary Stuart. A printed
book of the monuments b is sold by the verger. The poor are
fed here every Sunday ; while the sermon is being delivered, the
food is laid out on an oblong wooden table. One of the curiosi-
ties is the stone on which Abraham [sic] rested ; the chair or
throne bears an inscription. The exterior of Whitehall Palace
is not very magnificent. In the new building is the spacious
hall where the Knights of the Garter are accustomed to banquet.

a There were twenty arches, including the drawbridge.

b Camden's "Reges, &c. Westmonast. sepulti," 1600, 1603, 1606.

England as seen by Foreigners. 1 3 3

In the library is kept a little book written by Queen Elizabeth,
in French, and dedicated to her father, Henry VIII. In the
garden adjoining are kept wild and tame beasts from India ;
also foreign fowl. In the same garden is a building for horse-
exercise in case of rain. The Parliament House : allusion to
the powder plot. Not far from hence, towards the open fields
(versus campos) is the Prince's house (La Maison du Prince), St. James's

, 1 1 j- j -j r 1 11 ~, Palace.

a pleasant and splendid residence, formerly an abbey. The
street or square of the Prince contains some handsome houses.
Inside the Tower is the armoury. In Caesar's Tower you may The Tower.
see the guns taken at Cadiz. The Mint in the Tower : only
gold and silver money coined. The lions and leopards, eagle
and wolf. The Exchange is a magnificent palace ; in the area
the merchants meet twice a day. The theatres (Theatra Comae- Theatres.
dorum) in which bears and bulls fight with dogs ; also cock-
fighting. The colleges and schools [meaning the Inns of
Court] " tho the medel tempel ; " pretty grounds by the banks
of the river Thames. Magnificent palaces on the right bank.
Once every month execution of those condemned to be hanged
takes place ; some are placed in a cart and driven under the
gallows ; when they have all got the halters about their necks,
the cart moves on, and they are left hanging. Those who are travelling.
desirous of visiting the entire kingdom hire interpreters, of
whom there are many who make it a profession. Not a few
Germans have complained of the deceit of these fellows ; we
employed (he says) a most excellent youth named Frederick, a
native of Hesse Cassel, who may be heard of at the sign of the
Black Bell {ad insigne campana nigra) " tho the blac bel," which
is recommended as a good economical establishment. Travellers
generally go on horseback ; sometimes in coaches, which are

Richmond
Palace.

Hampton
Court.

Windsor.

Oxford.

i 34 England as seen by Foreigners.

too dear ; sometimes in boats as far as Richmond, Nonesuch,
Hampton Court, Windsor, and Oxford.

The most curious thing to be seen is Henry VII's Library ;
here is also his glass, in which they tell us he could see every-
thing passing in the world ; it was broken at his death. The
Genealogy of the Kings of England from Adam. Henry VII's
inkstand, and his bed-chamber sprinkled with his blood. 3

Chapel and Hall ; the vaulted roof of Irish wood will bear
nothing poisonous, consequently not even spiders. A musical
instrument made of glass ; many beautiful pictures in the gal-
leries, one of our Saviour, with an inscription testifying that the
Sultan [Bajazet] had sent this to the Pope [Innocent VIII.] to
liberate his brother from captivity. 135 The bed-rooms orna-
mented with tapestry and bedsteads. In the Queen's bed-
chamber is the picture of Venus, above which is written " Imago
Amoris ; " on the forehead, " procul et prope ; " on the crown,
" Mors et Vita ;" [at the feet, "Hyems et iEstas ;"] b and beneath
all, " In hac poesi figurantur proprietates Amoris."

The most eminent of all is the Paradise Room ; it captivates
the eyes of all who enter, by the dazzling of pearls of all kinds.
It is strange that the keeper of this room is so sordid that you
must bargain with him beforehand about his fee ; yet from his
dress he appears a grand gentleman. Nonesuch we could not
see, but it is a very pleasant place ; the grounds are highly
praised. At Windsor : here is to be seen a unicorn's horn,
nine spans long. Oxford : there are sixteen colleges — one called

Seepages 128 and 172.
b The words in brackets are supplied from Eisenberg's Itinerary, 1614. See

post, p. 173.

c " Cum tamen ex habitu quantivis pretii videatur.'

England as seen by Foreigners. 135

Queen's College is most hospitable ; if students see strangers,
they welcome them, and pledge their healths in college beer out
of a large horn ; a this attentive politeness deserves another kind
of praise than the unbridled insolence shown in other colleges
by students who, by making attacks upon passengers, are rather
deserving of the name of robbers.* In New College is a library
well provided with printed books and manuscripts. At Wood- Woodstock.
stock, Queen Elizabeth was imprisoned ; her verses are still
on the window there. Bedford is a pleasant town. Cambridge : Cambridge.
Trinity College is very splendid. Library in King's College.
The chapel of this college is of extraordinary artifice, hardly to
be described. Audley Inn (Adelin), three hours distant, lately audley End.
begun by an English nobleman [the Earl of Suffolk], and a
good part built ; when finished, no other palace in the kingdom
will compare with it. Theobalds Palace, very pleasant ; in the Theobalds
gardens a genealogy of the Earls of Salisbury ; also a marble table
near which are placed statues of the twelve Roman Emperors.
Pass through two halls, in one are forty trees representing the
counties of England ; in another are painted the large cities of
Europe. A chimney-piece, 136 on which is inscribed in French
the history of Joannes de Sitschitz and Guil. Fanacham. b You
should return to London by the river, and in the passage
notice the fragments of the ship in which Francis Drake sailed
round the globe. Observe also the Palace of Greenwich, cele-
brated for the birth of Elizabeth, and her frequent residence. I
and my companions could not be admitted on account of the
Queen [Anne of Denmark] being there.

a Shown at the South Kensington Loan Exhibition in 1862. See Cat. No.
3220.

b " Caminus etiam cum historia Joannis de Sitschitz et Guil. Fanacham Gallice
adscripta."

XII.
SIGHTS AND EXHIBITIONS,

TEMP. JAMES I.

SIGHTS AND EXHIBITIONS IN ENGLAND,

TEMP. JAMES I.

BY HENRY PEACHAM, AUTHOR OF
" THE COMPLETE GENTLEMAN."

(PREFIXED TO CORYAT'S " CRUDITIES," l6ll.)

HY doe the rude vulgar so hastily post in a
madnesse
To gaze at trifles, and toyes not worthy the

And thinke them happy, when may be shew'd for a penny
The Fleet-streete Mandrakes, that heauenly Motion of Eltham,' 1
Westminster monuments, and Guildhall huge Corinasus,
That home of Windsor (of an Unicorne very likely,) b
The caue of Merlin, the skirts of old Tom a Lincolne,
King Johns sword at Linne, with the cup the Fraternity drinke in,
The Tombe of Beauchampe, and sword of Sir Guy a Warwicke :
The great long Dutchman, and roaring Marget a Barwicke,

See note 84.

b See page lj and note 37.

140 England as seen by Foreigners.

The Mummied Princes, and Cassars wine yet i' Douer,
Saint James his Ginney Hens, the Cassavvarway" moreouer,
The Beauer i' the Parke (strange beast as ere any man saw)
Downe- shearing willowes with teeth as sharpe as a hand- saw.
The Lance of John a Gaunt, and Brandons still i'the Tower : b
The fall of Niniue, with Norwich built in an hower.
King Henries slip-shoes, the sword of valiant Edward. 6
The Couentry Boares-shield, and fire-workes seen but to bedward.
Drakes ship at Detford, d King Richards bed-sted i' Leyster,
The White Hall whale-bones, the siluer Bason i' Chester ;
The liue-caught Dog-fish, the Wolfe and Harry the Lyon,
Hunks of the Beare-garden to be feared, if he be nigh on.
All these are nothing, were a thousand more to be scanned,
(Cory ate) vnto thy shooes e so artificially tanned :
That through thicke and thinne, made thee so famous a Trotter.
Etc., etc. 137

a " An East Indian bird at Saint James in the keeping of Mr. Walker, that
will carry no coales, but eate them as whot as you will."
b See note \z.
c See page 10.
d See note 62.
e See the Introduction, page xv.

XIII.

OTTO, PRINCE OF HESSE,

1611.

TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN.

Mg^2M

VISIT TO ENGLAND MADE BY OTTO,
PRINCE OF HESSE, 1611.

|N the month of June, 161 1, an unsuccessful suitor
for the hand of Elizabeth, the eldest daughter of
James I, appeared at the English Court in the person
of Otto, Prince of Hesse — a youthful German
Ccelebs in search of an English princess ; not altogether an unusual
occurrence. 2 He was the son of the Landgrave Maurice, and had
received, it is said, an invitation 138 to come to England from
Henry, Prince of Wales, who was of the same age as himself.

In Stow's Annales, fol. 1631, this visit is thus chronicled: —
" The 23 of June, here arrived Prince Otto, son and heire unto
Morris Landgrave of Hesson, attended with thirtie persons, and
accompanied with the young Count of Nassaw : this Prince
was very honourably entertained of the King, Queene, and
Prince of Wales : hee went unto both the Universities, and tooke
great pleasure to behold the Kings parks and pallaces. He was
17 yeergs of age, and demeaned himselfe in all things wery
princely and bountifully ; he returned the third of August. The
•King honored with knighthood two of his chiefe attendants, who

* " How like you the young German ?" — Merchant of Venice, act i. sc. 2.

1 44 England as seen by Foreigners.

were Commissioners to his Majesty, viz. Otto Starchedell, Pre-
sident of Hessia, and Gasper Widmarker, a Collonell ; next
unto whom his chiefe gentleman, and director of his affaires, was
Master Frauncis Seager, an Englishman, a sworne Counsellour
unto Prince Morris, the father of this young Prince, and one of
his Captaines in Ordinary."

In the Library at Cassel is a MS. narrative of this Journey, by
an unknown hand, some extracts from which have been intro-
duced by Rommell in his " Geschichte von Hessen," (8vo.
Cassel, 1837), Bd. 6, pp. 327, 328, for a knowledge of whose
work I am indebted to Mr. Albert Cohn, of Berlin, the author
of a very interesting volume just published, entitled " Shake-
speare in Germany." Rommell says the MS. contains numerous
Latin inscriptions copied from the English palaces visited by
the travellers. Otto had his first audience of King James at
Greenwich on the 30th of June. He received from the King a
jewel with 120 diamonds, worth (according to Meteren) 10,000
crowns ; from Prince Henry, four fine horses ; from other
English noblemen, a cross-bow for shooting deer ; a buck (with
the word Landgrave engraved on its collar), which they let
loose, and a cormorant for catching fish. a The King con-
versed with Otto on the bad English pronunciation of Latin
(sounding i instead of e), h and quoted some verses from Horace.
The Prince went to church with his Majesty to celebrate the an-
niversary of the Gunpowder Plot, 139 and afterwards attended the
ceremony of " touching" several scrofulous patients \i.e-. afflicted
with the "evil"], two bishops being also present; during the
benediction the King laid two fingers upon them, and hung

" See Note 95. " See the Introduction, p. xxxvi.

England as seen by Foreigners. 1 45

around the neck of each an angel [coin] with a white silk
ribbon. Two hundred guards always marched near his carriage,
and cleared the way with their halberds. The attendant who
handed him drink performed this office kneeling. On being
dubbed a knight, Starschedel answered the King in Latin,
Widemarkter in French. Besides the Earl of Lincoln, (whom
Queen Elizabeth had sent to Cassel 140 to be present at the
christening of the daughter of the Landgrave Maurice, who was
named after the Queen,) Otto met a Brandenburg ambassador,
who presented the King during the chase with some living
wild boars, the remainder of sixty head. Otto attended a Lord
Mayor's feast : he sat at the side of the Lord Mayor, who was
waited on by pages, his sword hanging against the wall ; and
during the banquet an excellent alto sang to the instruments.
It is mentioned incidentally that a pound of tobacco which was
sold in several houses in London, like brandy in Hesse, cost at
that time ( 1 6 1 1 ) 330 florins ! U1

The Prince, it would seem, also made a tour through Scotland.
In a poem descriptive of " the Palsgraves Countrey," written
by William Fennor, " His Maiesties Seruant" (Descriptions, 1 6 1 6,
4to.), Prince Otto is introduced very favourably as follows : —

" Yong Prince of Hesson is the first must enter,

to act his vertues on the worlds Theater ;
Tis hard- to finde a yong man on earth's center,

that is a vertue lover and vice hater,
Old Landsgraves glasse hath many houres to runne,

whil'st all his vertues liveth in the Sonne."

Otto, Prince of Hesse, died in 16 17, from the effects of a gun
accident, two months after his second marriage.

XIV.

JOHN ERNEST, DUKE OF SAXE-WEIMAR,

1613.

TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN.

/*5^3£3s

VISIT TO KING JAMES I. AT THEOBALDS IN 1613,

MADE BY JOHN ERNEST, DUKE OF

SAXE-WEIMAR.

John Ernest, called the younger, Duke of Saxe-Weimar, was born in 1594. He
studied at Jena, and in 1613-14 travelled through France, England, and the
Netherlands, under the name of Herr von Hornstein. An account of this journey
was written by J. W. Neumayr von Ramssla and printed at Leipzig, 1620, 4W.
under the title of " Des durchlauchtigen hochgebornen Fiirsten und Herrn, Herrn
Johann Ernsten des Jiingern, Hertzogen zu Sachsen, &c, Reise in Franckreich,
Engelland und Niederland" (reprinted at Jena, 1734, by J. G. Pagendarm).
The Prince's stay in England was from Aug. 24, to Oct. 23, 1613. A few
years later he took a leading part in the formation of a society for the improve-
ment of the German language, which was founded in 1617 by his tutor and
companion in travel Caspar von Teutleben. The society bore the name of
" Fruchtbringende Gesellschaft," or Fruit-bearing Society, and its sittings were
at first held at the Ducal Castle of Weimar. In 1620, being then in the service
of the unfortunate King of Bohemia, the Prince was engaged in the battle on
the White Mountain (usually known as the battle of Prague). Subsequently he
entered the service of the Netherlands, and was taken prisoner by the Spaniards,
but was soon liberated. He was wounded at Nienburg, being General Field-
Marshal in the Danish Army. Afterwards he fought against the Emperor in
Silesia and Hungary, and died in 1626.

)N the 17th day of September, 1613, the Royal
Master of the Ceremonies [Sir Lewis Lewkenor]
called upon his Highness, and very early in the
morning of the 19th (being Sunday) they pro-
ceeded in two coaches to the King at Theobalds (Thibault).

150 England as seen by Foreigners.

When they arrived here, his Highness was conducted through
the presence-chamber into the ante-room adjoining, where
numerous lords were assembled ; and in this room his Highness
waited about half an hour. As it was now the time for divine
service, the King made his appearance in company with the
young Prince Charles. He was dressed in a satin robe of an
ash colour, thickly covered with gold lace chevronwise," and a
rather long cloak of black cloth, lined with velvet. In his
hat was a magnificent jewel, with three large precious stones
one above the other, set in gold. His Highness immediately
advanced towards the King, made a low obeisance, and addressed
his Majesty in Latin. The Earls and Lords crowded round to
hear what his Highness said. The King listened attentively to
his Highness, standing all the while and holding his hat in his
hand, and answered him likewise in Latin. His Majesty then
proceeded to the presence-chamber, a handsome and lofty room,
where a great number of persons had assembled for service, and
seated himself beneath a golden canopy and behind a small table,
on which lay a cushion and book. The young Prince stationed
himself on the King's left hand, and next to him his Governor.
His Highness, however, stood on his right hand, and close
below the dais. Two Chamberlains stood also near the
King, and next to his Majesty a Bishop, a tall dignified man,
dressed in a black gown with white sleeves, with whom the King
very frequently conversed during the service. The Minister,
who stood at a window, commenced the service, delivered first
a long prayer for the welfare of the King, the Queen, and

* " Sparrweis." This word signifies that the gold cords or lace were laid one
over another like a v reversed ; literally, like the rafters of a building. — Beckmann.

England as seen by Foreigners. 1 5 1

young Prince, and also for the Elector Palatine and his wife ;
afterwards kneeling he said the Lord's Prayer. And thus the
service lasted about an hour and a-half. When it was con-
cluded, his Majesty stood up, his chair was removed to the table,
and he seated himself in it. Then immediately the Royal
Physician brought a little girl, two boys, and a tall strapping
youth, who were afflicted with incurable diseases (unheilbare
Sch'dden, i. e. the Evil), 142 and bade them kneel down before his
Majesty ; and as the Physician had already examined the disease
(which he is always obliged to do, in order that no deception
may be practised), he then pointed out the affected part in the
neck of the first child to his Majesty, who thereupon touched it,
pronouncing these words : Le Roy vous touche, Dieu vous guery
(The King touches, may God heal thee !) and then hung a rose-
noble round the neck of the little girl with a white silk ribbon.
He did likewise with the other three. During the performance
of this ceremony, the above-mentioned Bishop, who stood close
to the King, read from the Gospel of St. John, and lastly a
prayer, whilst another clergyman knelt before him and made
occasional responses during the prayer. Now when this was
concluded, three lords — among whom were the Earl of Mont-
gomery and his brother 143 — came forward at the same time, one
bearing a golden ewer, another a basin, and the third a towel.
They fell on their knees thrice before the King, who washed
himself, 144 and then went with the young Prince (who, with his
Highness, walked before his Majesty) through the ante-room
again into his apartment. His Highness, however, remained in
the ante-room. This ceremony of healing is understood to be
very distasteful to the King, and it is said he would willingly
abolish it ; but he cannot do so, because he assumes the title of

152 England as seen by Foreigners.

King of " France" as well ; for he does not cure as King of Eng-
land, by whom this power is said to have been never possessed, but
as a King of France, who ever had such a gift from God. The
Kings of England first ventured to exercise this power when they
upwards of two centuries and a-half ago had possession of nearly
the whole of France, and when Henry VI. had himself crowned
at Paris as King of France [Dec. 17, 143 ij.

Soon afterwards, a person having a small white narrow towel
on each shoulder, entered the room and spread the table. Every
time that he placed anything upon the table, he made a low
obeisance ; then several of the King's body-guard came to the
door of the room with the dishes. The foremost of these
called out, " The King's dinner is coming," whereupon some
lords went and took the dishes from them at the door (for they
were not permitted to enter this room), and placed them on the
table. When this was announced to his Majesty, he came with-
out his cloak, and seated himself behind the table close to the
wall. Then a person took his Majesty's hat from him, and the
before-named bishop standing before the table said grace, and
then placed himself close to the King's right hand, his Highness
standing on his left. It is the custom to set before his Majesty
at first three dishes only, one of which is usually a piece of beef.
After he has partaken of that, from eight to ten delicate dishes
are then put before him. The carver cuts very small pieces, to
which, at the same time, the King helps himself out of the dish
with his own hand, and he is seldom seen to eat any bread.
His first drink is beer, which he takes from a cup turned out
of a peculiar kind of wood, and after that he drinks a thick
sweet French wine called Frontignac, which is presented to him
by a chamberlain, who kneels all the while his Majesty is

England as seen by Foreigners. 153

drinking ; the small table upon which the drinks are placed
stands in the presence-chamber, from whence they are fetched.
As a bishop is required to wait during every meal, his Majesty
generally converses with him at table," 5 and occasionally with
others, as it indeed happened on the following evening, when
the learned Isaac Casaubon, 1 * 6 who is a very little man with a
black beard, presented himself at dinner time, and laid before
his Majesty a sheet of paper, on which he had written something
against Cardinal Bellarmine at Rome ; and this the King not
only read, but during the whole meal-time discussed the merits
of it with him, speaking in Latin and French. After the dinner
was over, the King retired to his own room, and his Highness
returned to his lodging, and took his dinner also. Towards
evening he went again to court, and remained in the ante-room
till the King had taken his supper, after which his Highness
refreshed himself in the village.

On the 20th, his Highness again presented himself at Court,
and waited in the ante-room with the other lords whilst his
Majesty took breakfast in his apartment. The King then came
forward with the Prince, attired in a green satin dress, and
having a gray hat upon his head ; he sat down upon a chair near
the table, and had a pair of black boots pulled on ; on his left
leg a blue silk ribbon hung out just above the boot, which
denotes the Order of the Garter, and the young Prince wore
the like. This is not merely confined to the King and Prince,
but the lords, who are Knights of the Garter, daily wear on
the left leg a remarkably handsome blue garter.

The King and Prince then went down and out through the
pleasure grounds, where horses and carriages were waiting.
The King and young Prince seated themselves in one carriage,

154 England as seen by Foreigners.

his Highness took his place in the other; and thus they pro-
ceeded to the hunt. The other earls and lords rode on horseback.
When they came to the hunting-ground, the King, the Prince,
and his Highness also mounted on horseback ; his Majesty had
provided a fine palfrey for his Highness. The hunt generally
comes off in this way : the huntsmen remain on the spot where
the game is to be found, with twenty or thirty dogs; if the
King fancies any in particular among the herd, he causes his
pleasure to be signified to the huntsmen, who forthwith proceed
to mark the place where the animal stood ; they then lead the
dogs thither, which are taught to follow this one animal only, and
accordingly away they run straight upon his track ; and even
should there be forty or fifty deer together, they do nothing to
them, but chase only the one, and never give up till they have
overtaken and brought it down. Meanwhile the King hurries
incessantly -after the dogs until they have caught the game.
There is therefore no particular enjoyment in this sport. Two
animals only were caught on this occasion : one was presented
by the King to his Highness, which was eaten at his lodging.
His Majesty, however, now and then uses long bows and arrows,
and when he is disposed, he shoots a deer." 7 There are no large
stags to be found in England, but only fallow deer. His Ma-
jesty went out again after dinner ; as his Highness came some-
what late to the Court, he followed after. At the wood several
horses were in waiting, upon which they rode after the King.

On the 2 ist, divine service was held again in the presence-
chamber, after which the King touched another sick person with
the above ceremonies. When his Highness had accompanied his
Majesty as far as his apartment, they entered the room of the
young Prince [Charles], whom his Highness had not yet visited ;

England as seen by Foreigners. 155

and here they spoke French. The prince is now thirteen
years of age, and to all appearance is not of a strong constitu-
tion {nicht starcker Complexion) . m Those who were with his
Highness paid their respects to him likewise, and advanced to
him one after another. Although the table was spread in the
Prince's ante-room all ready before him, everything was taken
away, and he went with his Highness into the King's ante-
chamber, where his Highness remained, and the Prince entered
the King's apartment. Meanwhile the King's table was also
spread, and a plate was placed for the Prince at the upper end
of the table. As soon as the King and Prince were seated, his
Highness went down to dinner with the Duke of Lennox, a
Scottish prince ; and this was the only meal his Highness took at
Court, for although the King is accustomed to show great honour
to German Princes, and to entertain them at banquets, himself
partaking of the repast with them, yet this did not happen with
his Highness, because he for particular reasons wished to remain
incognito. 3 After dinner, his Highness again went out hunting
with the King and the young Prince, which he did as well on the
following day, and on the 23rd. The chase was arranged on
the way towards London ; the King stopped on the road and had
dinner, his Highness again joining the Duke of Lennox at table,
and towards evening the King arrived in London. His High-
ness sat all the time with him in the coach, and afterwards even
accompanied him to his apartment, and then returned once more
to his lodging at the " Italian Ordinary" (all' Italiano Ordinario).

* " Nicht so gar bekandt seyn wollen." He travelled under the name of Herr
von Hornstein, as is stated above (page 149).

XV.
PICTURES, ETC. IN THE ROYAL PALACES,

1613.

TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN.

PICTURES* AND OTHER WORKS OF ART
IN THE ROYAL PALACES,

IN THE YEAR 1613.

ICTURES.

PORTRAIT of King Edward VI. perspectively Whitehall.
painted (prospectivisch gemahlet)} m In front one
cannot distinguish what it is meant for, but from
the side the portrait is seen quite clearly.
Portraits of Francis I. of France, and his Queen.
The history how King Henry VIII. came to the Emperor
Charles at Calais and Boulogne. Further, how he arrived by
ship at Calais. These are two large tables 3 with many figures
painted from life ; and thus a very beautiful old picture.
A small Portrait of Louis XII. King of France.
Julius Caesar, also small — a fine picture.
Charlemagne.

8 The above List of Pictures, &c. has been extracted and translated from the
same Journal of the Duke of Saxe-Weimar as the preceding narrative. We have
rendered the word " tafel " by " table " — the term often formerly used for a
picture. Many of the Works of Art here mentioned are now at Hampton Court.

160 England as seen by Foreigners.

The Emperor Frederick III.

The Siege of Boulogne ; on a large table.

The Judgment of Paris, natural size ; on a large table.

Half-length Portraits of Christian II, Elector of Saxony ; of
the Archduke Leopold ; of the Emperor Rudolph ; of King
Matthias.

The meeting of the Emperor Maximilian I, and Henry VIII,
King of England, before Tournay ; on a large table — an old and
beautiful picture.

The battle before Assumcourt (Agincourt) between the said
Henry VIII. [Hen. V.] and the King of France ; on a large
table, which also is a beautiful picture.

The City of AntorfF [Antwerp], large.

Lucretia, very artistically painted.

The Battle of Gerisole [Cerisoles] between King Francis I.
and Charles V.

Whole-length Portrait of Henry VIII, very fine.

A large picture showing how the Spaniards took Kynsale in
Ireland, as well as certain skirmishes in the country.

The Genealogy of the House of Nassau ; on a large table.
Small and large Portraits of the Emperor Charles V, with
regimental baton.

The Queen of France [Mary de' Medici].

The country of England ; on three large tables.
'Portrait of the Duke of Parma [Alexander Farnese].

Portraits of several high-born ladies.

Germany, upon a large table, painted with colours.

Portrait of Edward VI.

Whole-length Portraits of Henry VIII, and his father Henry
VII.

England as seen by Foreigners. 1 6 1

These are considered remarkably artistic, and they say that
there is nothing like them to be seen in England.

Portrait of Queen Elizabeth, very beautifully painted.

Whole-length Portrait of the wife of Christian II, Elector of
Saxony.

The King of Spain.

The Siege of Malta, upon four several large tables.

The Count of Oldenburg.

The Queen of Scotland, who was beheaded.

The young daughter of Henry Julius, Duke of Brunswick.

John Frederick, Elector of Saxony.

Henry Julius, Duke of Brunswick, and his wife.

The Queen of France.

The Queen of Philip III. of Spain.

Queen Elizabeth, as she was when young.

The Archduke Albert and his wife [Isabella].

All being whole-length Portraits, beautifully and artistically
painted.

Whole-length Portrait of the father of the present Prince of
Conde, who lives at Paris.

Portraits of Wolfg. Musculus, Ulrich Zwingle, Rudolph
Gualter, Bullinger, Peter Martyr, Simon Grynasus, Conrad Pel-
licanus, Theod. Bibliander.

Sketches of several castles and palaces in England. 160 phince Henry's

Bacchus, Ceres, and Venus, with fawns, nearly the size of life, _ume S c, s). T
very artistically painted.

A vaulted house, wherein several are wrestling with each
other ; perspectively rather than artistically painted upon a small
table.

Somerset
House (The
Queen's
Palace).

i 62 England as seen by Foreigners.

The history of Cain and Abel, full-size, which is also an
artistic work.

The history of Tityus, how he lies, and the eagle picks out
his heart ; which is also large.

The history of Holophernes ; also large and very artistic.

The Sacrifice of Isaac, which is also large.

The Tower of Babel, very large, upon a table very artistically
painted.

Henry IV, King of France.

Count Maurice of Nassau ; a full-length Portrait.

A Kitchen, in which are all kinds of victuals, of flesh and
fish ; which is also a very artistic piece.

Three long tables of Shipping. On the first, how some are
wrecked in a great storm ; on the second, how the ships sail with
a fair wind ; on the third, how some vessels fire at each other by
night. They are particularly fine pieces.

The Battle before Ravenna, which is an old and a very beautiful
painting.

Two Palaces perspectively painted on two tables, with gar-
dens, and people who walk about in them ; very artistically
painted in oil colours.

Whole-length Portraits of the King of Denmark ;

Elizabeth Queen of England ;

The King of France ;

Marshal Biron, who was beheaded in the Bastile at Paris ;

The Duke of Wirtemberg and his wife ;*

The Prince of Anhalt and his son ;

The reigning Prince and his wife ;

a See the Introduction.

England as seen by Foreigners. 163

Several Wirtemberg ladies.

A beautiful Turkish lady.

The present Elector of Brandenburg, in complete armour,
with regimental baton.

Queen Elizabeth, together with many other Queens of Theobalds.
England.

John Frederick, Elector of Saxony.

Gaspar Coligny, Admiral of France, who perished with his
brothers in the massacre at Paris in the year 1572. All whole-
length portraits.

Half-length Portraits of all the Turkish Emperors.

The Labours of Hercules ; on seven small tables, very ar-
tistically painted in oil colours.

Don John of Austria.

The Prince of Conde.

The Duke of Parma.

Count of Egmond.

Count of Horn.

Paintings of the principal cities in the world.

Portraits of all the Kings of England.

The Mother of Philip II, King of Spain. okmv™.

The wives of several English gentlemen.

Portraits of many English gentlemen, and old English kings.

Bathory, King of Poland.

The Treasurer Cecil.

Whole-length Portrait of Ulrich, Duke of Mecklenburg. ommnwi™.

Prince Charles [afterwards Charles I.J, the King's son, in a
coat, as he was when a little younger.

Whole-length Portrait of the reigning Duke of Florence.

Queen Margaret [of Valois], at Paris.

164 England as seen by Foreigners.

Portrait of Christian II, Duke and Elector of Saxony.
The Duke of Lennox, and several English lords in red habits.
William, Duke of Courland.

Portrait of the present Princess of Conde, very finely and
artistically painted.

Whole-length of Henry IV, King of France, on horseback.

Wax- works in

Westminster
Aebey.

Whitehall
Palace.

In addition to the Pictures" are also noted a considerable
number of curiosities of art, objects of vertu, costly tapestries,
pretty inventions and conceits, which were then to be seen in
the several palaces, &c. Some of these may be worth par-
ticularizing : —

Queen Elizabeth, in a red velvet gown, with sceptre and
crown.

Henry VII. and his Queen.

Henry V. also with his Queen, who came from France.

Edward III. and his Queen, a German, and a very little person.

The lately-deceased Prince of Wales b in a long red velvet
dress, lined with ermine, over a red habit which he had on
when he was ill, and with a long gilded staff in his hand. 151

The three Graces worked with the needle and silk, on a
small table.

A large sea-chart of the whole world, drawn with the pen
upon parchment.

Palestine painted in colours on a large table.

"• It is strange that the author when visiting Hampton Court should have
omitted to jot down any or the pictures deposited there.
b Henry died Nov. 6, 1612.

England as seen by Foreigners. 165

A Moor's head of stone, the breast of metal, said to be the
image of Balthasar, one of the three Kings.

Figure of Moses in metal, perfectly black, with large white
eyes, and long hair; the hair standing up from the forehead
like two horns; a short pointed beard, and looking somewhat
gravely. This image is said to have been brought to England
from Palestine many centuries ago.

Christ's Passion, very beautifully painted upon glass.

The kingdom of England drawn with the pen and coloured,
on a large table, showing all the intestine wars [of York and
Lancaster], besides where and at what place the battles were
fought.

A looking-glass, containing on the top Queen Elizabeth's
Portrait, and on the lower part of the frame these two verses :

Hinc radios nulJos ne tu mirere remitti
Orbis honos puro speculi resplendet in orbe.

Two large tables, on one of which was the royal race of
Scotland, and on the other the Palatine race, beautifully done
with the pen and the arms coloured.

Genealogy of the present King James VI, upon a large
circular table, done with the pen very beautifully and artistically.

Exploits of Count Maurice engraven on copper.

A large Bible, 152 printed upon parchment, said to be the first
which Henry VIII. caused to be printed.

In a small chamber where the books belonging to the Queen
stood was a large number in Italian and French. Amongst
others is a little volume on parchment which Queen Elizabeth
wrote in French with her own hand for her father King
Henry VIII. It was the Dialogus fidei of Erasmus of
Rotterdam. 153

Somerset
House.

Goldsmiths*
Street.

i 66 England as seen by Foreigners.

A piece of mechanism, executed by a native of Cologne.
Underneath was a chamber-organ {ein Positiv) which played of
itself; at the top stood twelve trumpeters blowing their horns ; a
little figure danced and bowed before two persons sitting under
a throne in the centre.

A beautiful celestial Globe of brass, which when wound up
went round of itself. Presented by the Emperor to the King.

Parma, with its territory, in needle-work, on silk.

The present King of England's bust, the size of life, composed
of small stones.

A mirror, which shows many faces when one looks into it.

An old book, with red and black monkish characters, painted
upon an ancient cloth, which is open, and in the middle a leaf
half-turned.

A green Palm tree ; in the upper part the branches growing
through a golden crown, and under them these words in gilt
letters :

Perpetuo vernans arbor regnantium in Anna,
Fert fructum et frondes, germine Ia;ta vivo.

In the garden stands a Parnassus Mount. On the top is the
Pegasus, a golden horse with wings ; with divers statues, one of
black marble representing the River Thames, beneath which
is this Latin distich in letters of gold :

Me penes imperium, emporium sunt classis et artes,
Et schola bene fluens, florida prata rigo.

It far surpasses the Parnassus Mount in the Pratolino near
Florence.

Goldsmiths' Street [or Row — close to St. Paul's] is the finest
and richest in the city. Numerous goldsmiths dwell here all near

England as seen by Foreigners. 167

together, where immense stores of silver and gilt drinking and
other vessels, as well as gold and silver coin, are daily displayed. 154

Two cannon of immense size, made of wood, which t«i Towm.
Henry VIII. took with him to strike terror into the enemy
before Boulogne.

Two pieces of Tapestry, worked very elegantly, representing
the sea-fight with the Spaniards in 1567, and the fight before
Calais.

Tapestries — with Roman Histories worked on them. Theobalds.

Tapestries — several pieces, containing the story of Hagar's Hampton
delivery ; how Abraham is about to offer up his son Isaac ; how
Isaac courted, &c. The dress, landscapes, buildings, and the
like are in gold, silver, and variegated silks,' so artistically
worked as though they had been carefully painted with colours.
The history of Tobit. The history of the Creation of the
World in several pieces ; these were old, but also of silk and
gold. The Deity is always represented as three old persons in
episcopal habits, with crowns on their heads and sceptres in their
hands.

A carved bust said to be an exact image of Christ. Nonesuch.

Several views of countries and places. The description of the Gbeenwich.
World, Holland, Sweden, East Indies, &c. done with the pen.
Italy, in water-colours. Large engraving of England, Scotland
and Ireland ; with genealogies and all the Kings, beautifully
illuminated.

XVI.

PETER EISENBERG,
1614.

TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN.

*«^

NOTES ON ENGLAND,

1 6 14.

BY PETER EISENBERG.

Peter Eisenberg, a Dane, whose father was Secretary to Frederick II, King of
Denmark, compiled for the use of the two sons of Casper Marckdaner, who were
about to travel, and to whom Eisenberg had been tutor, a little Guide-book in
German, entitled " Itinerarium Gallia et Angliae : Reisebiichlein," &c, i6 mo .
Leipzig, 1614, 402 pp. The author died in France (Nyerup). Jocher {Allg.
Gel. Lex.) has confused him with Petrus Eisenberger, a Roman Catholic Priest
of Dresden and Confessor to the Duke George of Saxony, who lived a century
earlier. The part relating to England occurs between pp. 321-359. The fol-
lowing are translated extracts : —

)HE merchants meet at the Exchange every morn- London.
ing between 1 1 and 1 2, and evening between 5 and 6.
Henry VIII's lance at the Tower. In the Library
at Whitehall is a little book in French, written by
Queen Elizabeth with her own hand, and dedicated to her father ;
it is the c Diakgus Fidei ex Erasmo Roterodamo :' also two other
books written by the said Queen. In St. Paul's School there are
153 youths instructed gratis. Many heads are on the Tower of
London Bridge fixed on spikes. The palaces and places along the

172 England as seen by Foreigners.

Richmond.

Theobald?.
Oxford.

Woodstock.

Windsor.

bank of the Thames passing towards Westminster, are — " Fish-
monges hall, Olde Swan, Schrevesbury howes, Cecls harbor, The
stilliarde, Three Cranes, Quene hythe, Brokenwarfe, Paules
wharfe, Baynardes Castle, Blackfryars stayrs, Bridwel dock,
Salsbary court stayrs, Whytefriers stayrs, Temple stayrs, Essex
howse, Milford stayrs, Arondell howse, Strond stayrs, Somerset
howse, y e Savoye, Bedford howse, Durham howse, York howse,
Scotland, Vhyte hall, Priuy stayrs, Garden stayrs, Kinges bridge,
Parliment bridge."

In the palace, remark the Library of King Henry VII, for
the most part consisting of manuscripts, of which Library
nothing was known until the time of Queen Elizabeth. One of
the books is on magic or the black art, called " Modus et Ratio
Divinas Contemplationis." Here also is a large mirror in which
Henry VII. was able to see what he wished ; but this mirror
broke in pieces of itself when the King died. His inkstand is
likewise here. A portrait of the King when a young man,
together with his wife ; also the genealogies of all the Kings
of England. King Henry VII's chamber wherein he is said to
have died, the wall of which is besprinkled with his blood, but
this is not permitted to be seen by every one.

Theobalds is called " Diephtholtz."

New College : a splendid library, in which are many MSS. on
vellum ; also two globes, the terrestrial one showing the voyages
of Drake and Cavendish.

You see here the verses written on a window by Queen
Elizabeth with a diamond. 3

You see at " Vindsor" the room in which Henry VI. was born.

* See also Hentzner's " Travels," ante, p. 108.

England as seen by Foreigners. ij^

The bed of Henry VIII. A table of red coral, on the four
sides of which are these sentences, " Virtutis laus actio," " Omnis
sapientiaa Deo," " Industrial fomes Praemium," " Regina rerum
sapientia." A unicorn's horn 9 spans long.

The picture of Venus as a lovely young lady. Above is Hampton
written, " Imago amoris ;" on the forehead, "'Procul et prope ; " CouRT -
on the crown, " Mors et Vita ;" at the feet, " Hyems et iEstas ; "
and beneath all, " In hac poesi figurantur proprietates Amoris."
A cabinet, in the centre are these words in French, " Si tu as
maistre, serves le bien, di bien de luy, gardes le sien, quoy qu'il
face, soys humble devant sa fa^e."

Queen Elizabeth's draught-board, presented to her by the Greenwich
Elector of Saxony, Christian I, made with costly precious stones,
especially thirty-two beautiful emeralds. Also an elegant chess-
board. Drake's ship at Deptford, nearly all destroyed. deptford.

The author has confounded Cambridge with Canterbury.

XVII.

VALENTIN ARITHM^US,
1617.

TRANSLATED FROM THE LATIN.

*$sogz&

NOTES ON LONDON AND WESTMINSTER,

1617.

BY VALENTIN ARITHM.EUS.

HE Author, who was Doctor of Laws of Basle, and
Professor of Poetry at Frankfort on the Oder, pub-
lished in 161 8, a a work in Latin on the monu-
ments in Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's, en-
titled, " Mausolea Regum, Reginarum, Dynastarum, Nobilium,
sumtuosissima, artificiosissima, magnificentissima, Londini An-
glorum in occidentali urbis angulo structa ; h. e. Eorundem
Inscriptiones omnes in lucem reductas, cura Valentis Arithmaei,
Prof. Acad, literis et sumtibus Joannis Eichorn," in 1 2 m0- pp.
144. Westminster Abbey, pp. 1-122. St. Paul's, pp. 123-144.
This important work, of which King James's copy is in the
British Museum, is not mentioned by Dugdale in his history of
St. Paul's Cathedral, nor by his editor, Sir Henry Ellis. The
author died in 1620.

Arithmasus, in his Preface, says he had travelled for three

" The Preface is dated November, 1617.
A A

178 England as seen by Foreigners.

years in company with Baron Zedlitz. Alluding to the West-
minster monuments and epitaphs, he remarks, "When the
Verger saw that I was eager after these things, he offered a copy
of some Inscriptions printed several years before j a but after the
manner of his nation, eaten up with avarice, he demanded a
great price." Arithmaeus has given the Latin inscriptions only,
omitting the English, " for," says he, " very few persons under-
stand English." {Anglicam enim paucissimi intelligunt.)

Speaking of St. Paul's, he mentions the ascent of the King
of Denmark in company with King James [in 1 6o6], b to the
steeple covered with lead ; and he adds (p. 1 24), " No German
is admitted to it, unless he pays his money beforehand, so in-
tense is the avarice of the English, and I don't know whether
the reason be not the simplicity of the Germans !" He alludes
to Paul's Cross, and preaching there every Sunday ; the mayor
and two others [the sheriffs?] clad in their robes and wearing
gold chains, attend on horseback. On August 5th, there are
special prayers for the Gowry conspiracy.*"

* Camden's work, mentioned ante, p. 132. b See Note 36.

c See Note 93.

NOTES TO THE FOREGOING NARRATIVES.

NOTES.

Note I. Page 3.
^HEold travellers seldom forget to 'tune their distresses and record
their woes' as inflicted by that merciless enemy, malde mer. An
extreme case may be cited from the experiences of the noble
Bohemian Baron Leo von Rozmital, who lionised at the gay court
of Edward IV. in the year 1466. On crossing the Channel, " the
sea so much affected my lord and his companions that they lay
in the ship as if they were dead." (' Meinem herrn und andern gesellen thet
das mer so we, das sie auf dem schiff lagen, als waeren si tot.') The Manor of
Archer's Court, near Dover, was held upon this remarkable condition, viz. — that
the owner or owners " should hold the King's head when he passes to Calais,
and by the working of the sea should be obliged to vomit." (Philipott's Villare
Cantianum, 1659, Addenda, p. 282.)

2. Page 5. Among the MSS. in the British Museum, and particularly in the
Cottonian MS. Aug. I. 1., are highly interesting plans, views, reports, and sur-
veys of Dover and its harbour, temp. Henry VIII. and Elizabeth. In 1583,
after many surveys and much investigation, important works were undertaken
there for the defence of the town and harbour. They were commenced on May
13th under the superintendence of Thomas Digges, a skilful engineer ; Sir Thomas
Scot being appointed principal commissioner. A very interesting and circum-
stantial narrative, by his kinsman, Reginald Scot (author of " The Discoverie of
Witchcraft," 1584), is printed in Holinshed's "Chronicle" (1587), iii. 1535 —
1547. This is unnoticed by the Dover historians as well as by the biographers of
Reginald Scot. Hentzner, a German, who travelled in England in 1598, speaks of
Dover as " situated among cliffs, standing where the port itself was originally, as
may be gathered from anchors and parts of vessels dug up there ; it is more famous
for the convenience of its port, which indeed is now much decayed, and its pas-
sage to France, than for either its elegance or populousness. This passage is the
most used and the shortest, it is of thirty miles, which, with a favourable wind,
may be run over in five or six hours' time, as we ourselves experienced ; some

1 82 Notes.

reckon it only eighteen to Calais, and to Boulogne sixteen English miles, which,
as Ortelius says in his " Theatrum," are longer than the Italian, Upon a hill,
or rather rock, which on its right side is almost everywhere a precipice, a very
extensive castle rises to a surprising height, in size like a little city, extremely
well fortified and thick set with towers, and seems to threaten the sea beneath.
Matthew Paris calls it the door and key of England. The ordinary people have
taken it into their heads that it was built by Julius Cassar ; it is likely it might
have been built by the Romans, from those British bricks in the chapel which
they made use of in their foundations." Dr. Dibdin, the well-known biblio-
grapher, issued prospectuses for a new History of Dover, but the work was never
published. The drawings and engravings which were executed for it are now in
the hands of Messrs. Boone of Bond-street.

3. Page 5. The Baron of Winnenberg (called also ' Wimberg') was sent by
the Elector Palatine to England, in the beginning of 1618, to invite the Queen
and Prince Charles to stand sponsors to the Princess Elizabeth's second son,
who was named Charles, after his uncle. (Nichols' Prog, of James I. iii. 467.)

4. Page 5. Duke Frederick of Wirtemberg travelled from Dover to Gravesend
on horseback, in spite of the hardness of the saddles, unattended by an English
escort. In the next reign a Master of the Ceremonies was appointed, whose
duty it was to receive ambassadors and distinguished foreigners, and who was
invested with authority to supply them with coaches, carts and horses, and to pro-
vide barges, and all things necessary for the journey to and from London. The
first person who held this office was Sir Lewis Lewkenor. He was an active and
courteous man, and, what was very essential, a good linguist.. He is several
times mentioned in our narratives. His assistant was Sir John Finett, who suc-
ceeded to the post, and who published a curious book on the difficult duties of a
Master of the Ceremonies. (" Philoxenis," 1656.) And, indeed, at times we
may well suppose it to have been no easy task to find lodging and entertainment
for such travellers, especially when the party was very numerous ; and " cozenage,
mere cozenage," was likely to be the cry of many a "mine host" on the road.
When the route was taken through Kent, the Lord Lieutenant assisted in doing
the honours, generally bringing with him a large train, and indulging the more
favoured visitors with a little hawking and hunting by the way. To the ladies
of Kent, who would occasionally gaze on these gay cavalcades, Count Villame-
diana, the Spanish Ambassador, coming in great pomp, in 1603, to congratulate
James I. on his accession to the crown of England, and bearing with him the
olive-branch of peace, pays a graceful, and doubtless a well-merited compliment,
by remarking that, in that " province," more than any other part of England,
nearly all of them were * beautiful exceedingly.' — (" Damas, muy hermosas en
estremo, porque casi todas lo son, generalmente en aquella provincia mas que en
toda Inglaterra.") The Spaniards had an officer similar to our Master of the
Ceremonies, who was termed " Aposentador," or harbinger.

5. Page 5. Hentzner and his companions, in 1598, took post-horses for

Notes. 1 8 3

London [from Rye] — he says of them : " It is surprising how swiftly they run ;
their bridles are very light, and their saddles little more than a span over."

6. Page 6. A coloured plan of Canterbury, drawn by William Smith, Rouge
Dragon Pursuivant, 1588, is in the Sloane MS. 2596. An engraved one of
about the date 1575 occurs in Braun's "Civitates Orbis Terrarum." Dean
Stanley, in 1855, published "Memorials of Canterbury," which is a model of
historical topography.

7. Page 6. At Gravesend, we are told, " there is every tyde a comon pas-
sage by water to London, which is 20 myles, the which a man may pass for y*
valew of two pence in y c comon barge, and in a tiltbote for vi, d." (Desc. of
England, MS., by W. Smith, 1588). In May, 1592, the Gravesend tilt-boat,
having forty passengers on board, was unfortunately run down by " an hoy" off
Greenwich, the Court being there at the time. Most of the passengers were
drowned, " at sight whereof (says Stowe) the Queene was much frighted."
Hentzner, in 1598, speaks of Gravesend as "a small town, famous for the
convenience of its port ; the largest Dutch ships usually call here. As we were
to proceed farther from hence by water, we took our last leave here of the noble
Bohemian, David Strziela, and his tutor, Tobias Salander, our constant fellow-
travellers through France and England, they designing to return home through
Holland, we on a second tour into France; but it pleased Heaven to put a stop
to their design, for the worthy Strziela was seized with diarrhoea a few days
before our departure, and, as we afterwards learned by letter from Salander, died
in a few days of a violent fever in London." Respecting the character of the inns
at Gravesend in early days, see Note 134. A good "History of Gravesend"
was published in 1 843 by Mr. R. P. Cruden.

8. Page 6. The great number of swans on the Thames appears to have
struck foreigners with wonder. The Italian captain, Francesco Ferretti, admired
our " broad river of Thames, most charming, and quite full of swans white as
the very snow." (Diforti notturni, 1579, p. 134.) Hentzner likewise, in I.598,
states that the river " abounds in swans, swimming in flocks ; the sight of them
and their noise is vastly agreeable to the fleets that meet them in their course."

9. Page 6. The English names mentioned in the several narratives contained
in our volume have, as usual, been sadly disfigured and maltreated by the foreigners.
Greenwich, here obscured as Grouenwick, the author has attempted to improve
in his 'errata' by a form equally good looking — Grunewickh ; Sittingbourne is
represented by Cetbunbarnne; Rochester, by Rotbecestre, afterwards " corrected"
to Rocbcestres Windsor, by Winsort ; Cambridge, by Chambryssy, Cantobergy
and Candelburg; Ware, Voaire; Theobalds, Thieboldtz ; Uxbridge, Ochien-
britscb ; and so on, " for better, for worse." Hentzner's Grezin and Lyconsin —
words certainly of aspect strange, yet simply denoting our two Inns of Court,
Gray's Inn and Lincoln's Inn — were transformed into two Danish kings by
Hentzner's Reading editor. The names in Bassompiere must often have sorely
puzzled his translator; verily, the French Ambassador did the mangling most

1 84 Notes.

effectually. Some of the best riddles herein are Jorschaux, by which we are to
understand York House ; S-tintinton, Kensington ; Vialenforaux, Wallingford
House. Gough has furnished an amusing list of similar travesties culled from
French, German, and Italian travels in England : to wit, Arondelots, Greunchc,
Longeuker, I Pare, Kueinstriten, Liken sen-fils, Gresin, Morjil, Elbor, Smit fits,
Ogierlen, Milord Do/is, Huuiet, Serosbari — which turned into vernacular are,
Arundel House, Greenwich, Longacre, Hyde Park, Queen Street, Lincoln's Inn
Fields, Gray's Inn, Moorfields, Holborn, Smithfield, Hosier Lane, Lord Hollis,
Wyatt, Shrewsbury. To gain an idea of the Spaniard's apprehension of the
names owned by the nobility and gentry of the Court of James I, the reader is
referred to the narrative numbered IX. in our collection.

10. Page 6. In old English books the term " Dutch " is the usual translation
of " Deutsch," which comprises both the people of Germany and of the Nether-
lands. When, in course of time, it was desired to distinguish these by separate
names, the terms High and Low Dutch were used. The quotations in Moryson's
Itinerary (1617), and in Coryat's Crudities (161 1), called Dutch, are in reality
German. Speaking of the Netherlands, the former says: "It is called Nether-
land, as a country lying low, and the people for language and manners hath great
affinitie with the Germans, both being called Dutchmen by a common name."
(Pt. 3. p. 91.) So, in Sir James Melville's "Memoirs," under date of 156Z,
he calls Germany " Dutcheland," and the language "Dutche." At p. 123,
under the year 1564, he says of Queen Elizabeth, "Sche spak to me in Dutche
[meaning German], bot it was not gud." He uses indiscriminately, at pp. 17
and [9, for the country Allemaigne, Dutcheland, and Germany. This has given
rise to numerous mistakes. " Dutch clocks," for instance, are in fact German
clocks. But it is remarkable that Shakespeare uses this term in its correct sense;
e. g. in " Love's Labour's Lost," iii. 1 : —

" A woman that is like a German clock,
Still a repairing, ever out of frame,
And never going aright," &c.

This ill opinion entertained of the old German clocks is confirmed in the follow-
ing line from " Essayes and Characters of a Prison and Prisoners. By G. M."
1638:—

" They are like the German clocks, which seldome goe right."

The same confusion between German and Dutch seems also to exist in America.
" I find (writes a recent tourist) that when people mean to speak of a native of
Holland, they call him an Amsterdam Dutchman ; but when they speak of one
of German race generally, they leave out the Amster." (Blackwood's Edin.
Mag., 1864, p. 655.)

11. Page 7. Jean de la Fin, Seigneur de Beauvoir-La Node de Buhy, was
the resident French Ambassador in London from 1589 to 1593. He was in
1562 Governor of New Haven (Le Havre). On the occasion of Queen Eliza-

Notes. 185

beth's visit to Oxford in September, 1592, the honorary degree of M.A. was
conferred upon him. In Nichols's " Progresses " of the Queen he is incorrectly
called Beauvoys la Noude. A few of his letters are printed in Rymer. (See
also Note 57.)

12. Page 7. John Norden, the Surveyor, in his MS. " Description of Mid-
dlesex," 1592 (Harl. 570), printed the following year with considerable varia-
tion, has a long encomium on the Thames, which he has likewise introduced in
his MS. " Description of Essex" (1594), with alterations and additions. In the
latter he says : " It is reckoned that above 40,000 people are nourished by the
Thamise, as bargemen, ferryemen, fishermen, and such as they mayntayne, whiche
may seeme incredible yet true." This beautiful MS. of Essex, which is in the
Grenville Collection, is altogether a different work from that edited for the Cam-
den Society by Sir H. Ellis. A poet, singing the praises of the river in 1606,
speaks of

" The bubbling beauty of fayre Thames —
The silver christall streame."

Assum, likewise, in his poem " Panegyrici tres Anglo wirttembergici," 1604,
writes :

" Quam magni videat Tamisis purissima stagna —
Flumen oloriferum," &c.

William Smith, in 1 588, thus writes of the cities of London and Westmin-
ster: "This roiall & famous Citty standeth on y e north side of the River of
Thamise, which River is there a thousand foote brode; over which there is a
goodly Bridge of stone, which hath 20 arches, y* are 60 foote in height, 30 in
thickness [breadth], & distant one from another 20 foote. On both sydes of
the Bridge, are howses builded, in such sort that it seemeth rather a continuall
street than a. Bridge. London is 3 myles long (accompting Westminster withall),
and is two myles brode, reckoning Southwark and its bridge. It is devyded into
26 wardes, and hath 108 parish churches w th in the walles & xi w th out y e walles,
but yet w th in the liberties, which is in all 1 19.

" Westminster lyeth at y e West end of London, lyke the suburbes, and was of
late by Quene Elizabeth made a Cittie. In the great Church of St. Peter are
the sepultures of dyvers kings & noblemen, and hard by is Westminster Hall."

The above description is from a MS. {Shane, 2596) executed for Queen
Elizabeth, in 1588, entitled, "The particuler Description of England; with
portratures of the cheiffest Citties and Townes." By William Smith, Rouge
Dragon Pursuivant. The view of London in this volume is coloured, and
measures I ft. 6a in. by 8 in. We have not met with any reference to this map.
The Elizabethan Map of Ralph Aggas is well known. There are also two highly
interesting and well-executed maps of London and Westminster, by Norden, in
his "Description of Middlesex," printed in 1593. Another is in Braun's
" Civitates Orbis Terrarum," about 1575.

B B

1 86 Notes.

13. Page 7. The bold London 'Prentices and their like were sad fellows in
these early days, and it is even questionable whether, as a class, they had much
improved in manners before the period of the awful apparition of the policeman
in the streets of the metropolis. We meet with frequent complaints of the disres-
pect shown to foreigners on the part of the English populace. Thus, as early as
1497, the Venetian Ambassador, Andrea Trevisano, reports of the English that
" they have an antipathy to foreigners, and imagine that they never come into their
island but to make themselves masters of it, and to usurp their goods." Paolo
Giovio (Jovius), in his " Descriptio Britanniae," 1548, says: "The English are
commonly destitute of good breeding, and are despisers of Foreigners, since they
esteem him a wretched being and but half a man (semihominem) who may be born
elsewhere than in Britain, and far more miserable him whose fate it should be to
leave his breath and his bones in a foreign land.'* Micheli, the Venetian Ambas-
sador, alluding to the Spanish monarch, Philip, the husband of our Queen Mary,
in 1557, adds: " With all this, he cannot live with dignity in this country, on
account of the insolence with which foreigners are treated by the English." The
opinion of Maistre Perlin, 1558, is to the effect that " the people of this nation
have a mortal hatred of the French (hajent a mort les Fratiqoys) as their ancient
enemies, and commonly call us France chenesve, France, dogue 5 also or son. . . .
They are proud and seditious, with bad consciences, and faithless to their word.
These villains {ces vilains) hate all sorts of foreigners ; and although they have a
good country, they are all constantly wicked and moved by every wind, for at
one moment they will adore a prince — turn your hand, they would kill or crucify
him. It displeases me that these villains in their own country spit in our faces,
although when they are in France, we treat them like little divinities, in which
the French demonstrate themselves to be of a noble and generous spirit." Hentz-
ner, in 1598, observes : " If they [the English] see a foreigner very well made,
or particularly handsome, they will say, ' It is a pity he is not an Englishman.' "
In the reign of James I. the learned Isaac Casaubon complains, in one of his Latin
letters, that he was more insulted at London than he had ever been at Paris in
the midst of the Papists ; that stones were thrown at his windows night and day ;
that he received a great wound as he went to Court ; that his children were
affronted in the streets, and himself and family pelted with stones. The wily
Spaniard, Count Gondomar, seems to have experienced similar treatment from
the London buys, as Howell tells us he used to call them. The Count evidently
was a good hater of the profanum ziulgus of the England of his very familiar
royal friend, to whom he one day remarked that the flour (meaning the gentry)
was very choice and fine, but the bran (the common people) was very coarse —
" La harina de Inglatierra es muy delgada y fina, pero el afrecho es muy grossero."

It is strange that this Don, so frequently spoken of in the memoirs of the
period, should have been altogether overlooked in the biographical dictionaries —
even in the recent very extensive and excellent one published by MM. Bidot.
There is a good notice of him in Lopez de Haro's " Nobiliario de Espana,"

Notes. 1 87

l6z2, but beyond that date we know but very little of him. Howell, the
famous letter-writer, in Feb. 1625, mentions his then recent death at Bunnol, he
being on his way to Flanders, and thence to England, to treat for a surrender of
the Palatinate — "of pure apprehensions of grief, as it is given out." (Epist. Ho-
Eliance, 1650, p. 111.) Gondomar could tell a merry tale, could read Will
Shakespeare's plays, of which he possessed a ' first folio,' and did not disdain the
English wines ; indeed, Howell had heard that the Don was once too hard for
the King of Denmark when he was here in England. There is a fine whole-
length portrait of him by Mytens at Hampton Court.

Mons. Sorbiere, in 1663, complains of the English for their ill manners, and
particularly alludes to the rudeness of the boys. The Dover urchins gave the
first affront by calling after the Frenchman, a Mounser — a Mourner : they then,
becoming savage, followed it up with the opprobrious epithet of French dogs —
French dogs!

14. Page 7. In 26 Eliz. (1584), among the orders of the Commissioners for
the execution of the Statutes made for keeping horses and geldings for service, and
for horses and mares for "encrease and breede" in the County of Surrey, is one
of curious import : — " If any person should be thought of ability to be charged by
reason of lands or goods, or by their wives' apfarell, they were to be so charged."
Shakespeare {^Taming of the Shrew, act iv. sc. 3) speaks of

" Silken coats, and caps and golden rings,

With ruffs and cuffs, and farthingales, and things ;
With scarfs and fans', and double change of bravery,
With amber bracelets, beads, and all this knavery."

The Puritan writer, Stubbes, lashed the fashions, particularly of the ladies, in the
Elizabethan age. Mr. "Punch" undertakes the arduous duty at the present
day. Mr. Fairholt has almost exhausted this subject in his excellent book on
Costume.

15. Page 8. The women of England have fortunately escaped the censure so
freely bestowed upon the inhabitants of perfide Albion by Maistre Etienne Perlin,
a French student at the University of Paris, who published, in 1558, a little
volume entitled, " Description des royaulmes d'Angleterre et d'Escosse." In this
book we are presented with some curious pictures of the manners and customs of
the English, highly charged as usual with exaggeration and prejudice. He pro-
nounces our women, of any estimation, " the greatest beauties in the world, and
as fair as alabaster, without offence be it spoken to those of Italy, Flanders and
Germany. They are also cheerful, courteous, and of a good address." The
Italian captain, Francesco Ferretti, paid us a visit when this " island-kingdom of
England " was under the religious sway of the " good Cardinal Pole," so that
London, he writes in his "Diporti notturni," 1579, p. 134, became " a second
Rome, to the astonishment and infinite joy of the world — but now [«. e. in the
days of good Queen Bess] it is perfidiously heretical to the very back-bone,"

1 88 Notes.

(bora e perfidamente heretico in tutto & per tutto.) Yet the gallant captain,
however much he disliked our religion, admired our ladies ; " their women (says
he) are of marvellous beauty, and wonderfully clever" (donne di maravigliosa bel-
lezza, y mirabilmente ingegnose). See also " Pictures of the English" by
Van Meteren, the Dutch Consul in London (No. III.), and by Kiechel (No. VI.)
16. Page 8. Henry Holland published, in 1614, " Monumenta sepulchraria
Sancti Pauli. The Monuments, Inscriptions and Epitaphs, &c. in the Cathedral!
Church of St. Paul." The work was republished in 1633, with a continuation
to that year. Valentin Arithmsus, a German who had visited England, published,
in 161 8, a little book on the same subject, including the inscriptions in West-
minster Abbey. (See some notes translated from this work, No. XVII.)

Hentzner, in 1598, mentions a very fine organ in St. Paul's, " which at even-
ing prayer, accompanied with other instruments, is delightful."

One Henry Farley was a most energetic advocate in the cause of repairs to
the church, of which it greatly stood in need during the reign of James I, nothing
having been done to it since the steeple was struck by lightning in 1561. Dugdale
says that Farley "ceased not by sundry petitions to importune King James therein."
In one of his poetical petitions the author's enthusiasm is expressed in these lines : —
" My love to Paula is such

That if I had an angel's pen, Ide write ten times as much."
It would seem, however, that Master Farley carried his importunities a step too
far, for he at length '* got into Ludgate Prison by his schemes about it." Three
of his poetical effusions on the subject are in the British Museum : one entitled
" St. Paules-Church, her bill for the Parliament," 1621, 4to. contains a view of
the cathedral and cross, which we have copied. There is a curious folding
picture on panel in the possession of the Society of Antiquaries, which was painted
by John Gipkyn, at the expense of Farley, in 1 61 6. It represents an ideal pro-
cession of King James and his Court to St. Paul's, and the preaching at the Cross.
This picture was executed in anticipation of a royal visit, which, however, did
not actually take place until 1620, when James attended in great state on Sunday,
March 26th. The view of the cathedral, with the curious old houses near it, is
valuable and interesting.

In the following lines, from the above-quoted work, Farley satirizes the pre-
vailing taste of the age : —

" To see a strange out-landish Fowle,

A quaint Baboon, an Ape, an Owle,

A dancing Beare, a Gyants bone,

A foolish Ingin move alone,

A Morris- dance, a Puppit play,

Mad Tom to sing a Roundelay,

A woman dancing on a Rope,

Bull-baiting also at the Hope ;

A Rimers Jests, a Juglers cheats,

A Tumbler shewing cunning feats,

^
«

Notes. 1 89

Or Players acting on the Stage,

There goes the bounty of our Age ;
But unto any pious motion,
There's little coine, and lesse devotion."

In his "Complaint of Paules," 1616, the writer, alluding to certain recent
City improvements, introduces us to Smithfield, of savoury celebrity : —

" From thence to Smithfield, if thou chance to hit,
Tell me what costs they have bestow'd on it ;
It was before a filthy noisome place,
And to the Citie verie much disgrace,
Yet now some say it may with best compare,
Of market places that in England are."

17. Page 8. The Royal Exchange was at first called the " Burse," but named
by Queen Elizabeth the 'Royal Exchange,' when she visited the founder, Sir
Thomas Gresham, and inspected the new building, on the 23rd of January,
1570-1. Mr. J. W. Burgon published, in 1839, in two volumes 8 vo, an elaborate
and excellent work on the " Life and Times of Sir Thomas Gresham."

18. Page 8. The inhabitants had at this time no other means of procuring
water than by fetching it from the conduits, or paying men who made it their
business to bring it from thence in vessels called tankards, which held about three
gallons. One of these tankards is represented in Hoefnagel's curious View of
Nonesuch, dated 1582. The water-carriers then constituted a large class, and
seem to have formed a rather unruly part of the population. They were com-
monly called " Cobs." Ben Jonson introduces a character of this description in
" Every Man in his Humour." There was an old custom for the Lord Mayor,
Aldermen, and principal citizens to proceed on horseback annually, on the 1 8th
of September, to inspect the conduits. One of these ridings in 1 562 is amusingly
described in Machyn's Diary. Before dinner the jovial party hunted the hare,
they then dined and had good cheer at the conduit-head ; after this refreshment
they went merrily to ' hontyng ' of the fox ; the * hondes ' after a run of a mile
killed him at the end of St. Giles's, and there was a great cry at the death, and
' blohyng ' of horns.

19. Page 9. At this time (1592) an association of Englishmen, known by
the name of* Merchant Adventurers,' had established themselves at Stade, one of
the Hanse towns, not far from Hamburg, having a few years before obtained
certain privileges for the purposes of trade. They continued their residence here
ten years, in spite of much injurious opposition on the part of the foreign mer-
chants of Hamburg and other Hanseatic towns, which was fostered by Spanish
influence. Fynes Moryson being at ' Stode' in Oct. 1592, says : " It is strange
how the people raile on English-men in these parts." Probably the mission of
this so-called " Ambassador " at this time was to accommodate some matters of
difference between the English and foreign merchants. At length, however, the
obnoxious English merchants were banished from Stade by a mandate of the

1 90 Notes.

Emperor Rudolph II. in 1597. Queen Elizabeth retaliated by ordering the
Lord Mayor to expel their German rivals, the so-called * Easterlings ' (whence
the word sterling applied to English money), who were resident in the Steelyard
in Lower Thames-street, and who had enjoyed special commercial privileges
and immunities in England for more than 300 years. (Wheeler, Treatise
of Commerce, 1601, pp. 49, 81.) But, indeed, it was no easy matter to get rid
of them, for the Germans clung to the old spot during a great part of the succeed-
ing century. We have understood that the last traces of the old buildings of the
Hanse merchants of the Steelyard were only removed during 1863. The bene-
ficial influence of the Hanseatic league on English commerce has been ably treated
by a French author, M. Worms (Histoire commercial de la Ligue Hanseatique,
Paris, 1864) ; and the History of the Steelyard in London has been written in
German by Dr. Lappenberg, the learned historian. (Gescbichte des Hansischen
Stahlhofes zu London, \v>. Hamburg, 185 1.)

20. Page 9. Fynes Moryson {Itinerary, fol. Lond. 16175 part 3, bk. 3, p. 152)
has a curious and amusing passage respecting English beer, ale, and wine, and
the drinking customs of our ancestors : " Clownes and vulgar men onely use
large drinking of Beere or Ale, how much soever it is esteemed excellent drinke
even among strangers ; but Gentlemen garrawse onely in Wine, with which
many mixe sugar — which I never observed in any other place or kingdome to be
used for that purpose. And because the taste of the English is thus delighted
with sweetnesse, the wines in tavernes (for I speake not of Merchants or Gentle-
mens cellars) are commonly mixed at the filling thereof, to make them pleasant.
And the same delight in sweetnesse hath made the use of Corands [currants] of
Corinth so frequent in all places, and with all persons in England, as the very
Greekes that sell them wonder what we doe with such great quantities thereof,
and know not how we should spend them, except we use them for dying, or to
feede Hogges." (See also Hentzner's remarks, ante, pp. 104, 109, lib.)

This fondness of our countrymen and countrywomen for sweets astonished the
Spaniards who came with the embassy of the Count Villamediana in 1603. At
Canterbury the English ladies are described as peeping through the latticed win-
dows {ventanas rejas) at the hidalgos, who presented the ' curious impertinent '
fair ones with the bonbons, comfits, and sweetmeats that were upon the table,
" which they enjoyed mightily ; for (it is remarked) they eat nothing but what is
sweetened with sugar, drinking it commonly with their wine and mixing it with
their meat." (" Y no comen cosa que no sea con su acucar, y en el vino lo
beven muy de ordinario, y lo echan en la came.")

FalstafFs favourite potation of sack was taken with sugar ; his friend Pointz
addresses him as " Sir John Sack-and-Sugar."

Master Estienne Perlin {Description d'Angleterre, 1558) indulges in a few
pungent remarks upon the drinking habits and propensities of our forefathers.
" The English (saith this French inquisitor) are great drunkards (' fort grands
yvrongnes ') ; for if an Englishman would treat you, he will say in his language,

Notes. 1 9 1

vis dring a quarta rim oim gasquim oim hespaignol oim malvoysij that is, will you
drink a quart of Gascoigne wine, another of Spanish, and another of Malmsy ?
In drinking or eating they will say to you above a hundred times, drind iou, which
is, I drink to you ; and you should answer them in their language, iplaigiou, which
means, I pledge you. If you would thank them in their language, you must say,
god tanque artelay. When they are drunk, they will swear by blood and death
that you shall drink all that is in your cup, and will say to you thus : bigod sol
drind iou agoud oin. Now, remember, if you please, that in this country they
commonly make use of silver vessels when they drink wine, and they will say to
you at table, goud cbere. The servants wait on their masters bare-headed, and
leave their caps on the buffet. It is to be noted that in this excellent kingdom,
there is, as I have said, no kind of order ; the people are reprobates and thorough
enemies to good manners and letters, for they dont know whether they belong to
God or the Devil, which St. Paul has reprehended in many people, saying, be not
transported with divers sorts of winds, but be constant and steady to your belief.
As to their manner of living, they are rather unpolite, for they belch at table
without reserve or shame, even in the presence of persons of the greatest dignity.
They consume great quantities of beer double and single {i.e. strong and small],
and do not drink it out of glasses, but from earthen pots with silver handles and
covers, and this even in houses of persons of middling fortune ; for as to the poor,
the covers of their pots are merely of pewter, and in some places, such as villages,
their beer pots are made only of wood. With their beer they have a custom of
eating very soft saffron cakes, in which there are likewise raisins, which give an
excellent relish to the beer {cela vous faict trouver la Here double bonne), some
of which I formerly drank at Rye, as good as ever I drank in any country in the
world."

In the German account of the Bohemian Baron Leo von Rozmital's embassy
to England in 1466, we are told that the common people drink what is called
' Al'selpir' (Ale or Beer?) — "Das gemein volk trinkt ein trank, das heisst AT
selpir."

James Howell, in 1634, addressed to a friend some interesting remarks on
wines and other drinks, which he wittily calls "a dry discourse upon a fluent
subject." Henry Peacham, in his " Compleat Gentleman," 1622, p. 194, makes
the following curious statement : " Within these fiftie or threescore yeares it was
a rare thing with us in England to see a drunken man, our nation carrying the
name of the most sober and temperate of any other in the world. But since we
had to doe in the quarrell of the Netherlands, about the time of Sir John Norrice
his first being there, the custome of drinking and pledging healthes was brought
over into England : wherein let the Dutch bee their owne judges, if we equall
them not; yea I thinke rather excell them."

zi. Page 9. Hentzner, in 1598, described old London Bridge as " a Bridge
of stone, 800 feet in length, of wonderful work ; it is supported upon 20 piers
of square stone, 60 feet high and 30 broad, joined by arches of about zo feet

192 Notes.

diameter. The whole is covered on each side with houses, so disposed as to have
the appearance of a continued street, not at all of a bridge." (See also Note 12.)
Correr, the Venetian Ambassador, in 1610, states that the bridge was so narrow
that it was very difficult for two coaches meeting to pass each other without danger.

22. Page 9. The heads of criminals on the Bridge are seen figured in the old
maps of London. Master Estienne Perlin, when speaking of the frequency of
executions (1558), is of opinion that " in this country you will scarcely find any
nobleman, some of whose relations have not been beheaded. For my part (he
continues) with reverence to my readers, I had rather be a hog driver and keep my
head on (certesfaymerois mieulx estre porcher £5f garder bieti ma teste) ; for this
disorder falls furiously on the heads of great lords. For a while, you may see these
great lords in vast pomp and magnificence ; in a trice you behold them under the
hands of the executioner." Hentzner, in 1598, says he counted above thirty
heads on London Bridge. He adds : " Above three hundred are said to be hanged
annually in London : beheading with them is less infamous than hanging ! "

Kiechel, one of our German travellers (see p. 89), has some strange remarks
upon the custom of hanging observed in England.

23. Page 9. The first stone of Henry VII's chapel was laid in 1503. Nor-
den's description will be found under No. VII., p. 97.

Z4. Page 10. In Neale's " Westminster Abbey" this word ('Jan.') is printed
'jam,' which must be a mistake. In Camden's " Reges," &c. 1600, the inscrip-
tion reads : —

" Omnibus insignis virtutum laudibus heros,
Sanctus Edwardus Confessor, Rex venerandus,
Quinto die Iani moriens super aethera scandit.
Sursuin corda.
Moritur, Anno Dom. 1065."
The famous antiquary, William Camden, published a list of the monumental
inscriptions, &c. in Westminster Abbey, in 1600, in 4to. (republished in 1603,
1606). It is entitled, "Reges, Reginas, Nobiles et alii in ecclesia collegiata
B. Petri Westmonasterij sepulti," &c. In the British Museum is the author's pre-
sentation copy of the first edition to Queen Elizabeth, on the margins of which
are the shields of arms of the persons mentioned in the work splendidly illumi-
nated and emblazoned in their proper colours. See ante, pp. 132, 178.

Nathan Chytrsus, professor of the Latin language at Rostock, visited England
in 1566, and collected, in the course of his travels in this country, France, and
Italy, many inscriptions, chiefly monumental, which he published at Herborn,
1594, 8°. (also 1599 ; 1606), under the title of " Variorum in Europa itinerum
deliciae," &c. At pp. 76 et seq. will be found a few inscriptions in Westminster
Abbey and St. Paul's, followed by a curious description of the geographical dis-
coveries of Sebastian Cabot, copied by Chytraeus while at Oxford. Valentin
Arithmaeus, another German professor, took up the same subjeet of monumental
inscriptions in 16 17. Some remarks by him respecting Westminster Abbey are

Notes. 193

translated in No. XVII. Tom Coryat says he was branded as a * tomb-stone
traveller' for having copied and inserted in his book (Crudities, 161 1) so many
epitaphs and inscriptions.

25. Page 10. Shakespeare, in Hen. VI. act i. sc. 2, alludes to the Corona-
tion Chair in Edward the Confessor's Chapel : —

"In the Cathedral Church of Westminster,
And in that chair where Kings and Queens were crown'd."

.26. Page 10. " Wolffsklingen" — a kind of curved and somewhat round
blade, such as are manufactured at Solingen, bearing the figure of a wolf, which
is said to be derived from the name of the maker (Wolf}"). — See Campe's Worter-
buch. According to Sir S. Meyrick {Ancient Armour, Introd. xx.) Passau on
the Danube was celebrated as early as the thirteenth century for its sword-
cutlery, called " Wolfs-klingen" — wolf-blades. The old sword now in Edward
the Confessor's Chapel presents no appearance of inscription or figure on the
blade or handle; the latter, however, seems to be comparatively modern. The
sword is 7ft. 3m. in length, and weighs i81bs.

27. Page 11. A portion of the famous old abbey of Reading, — the third in
size and wealth of all English abbeys, and whose last abbot was hanged by order
of Henry VIII. for denying the Royal Supremacy — was after the dissolution con-
verted into a palace, but it was never much frequented by our monarchs. In
Queen Elizabeth's reign it was called " the Queen's House ;" and here her
Majesty occasionally resided. The town was also indebted to her for many
donations, and she was a great encourager of the woollen manufactory there.
Camden calls the palace " a royal seat, with fair stables stored with noble horses."
The.following items of expenditure having reference to this visit of the Queen in
1592, recorded by the Duke of. Wirtemberg's Secretary, were extracted by Mr.
Coates from the Churchwardens' Accounts of St. Lawrence's Church : —
"Paid for ringing at her ma'ties coming . . . xxii</.

Paid for making cleane of the strete at her ma'ties coming,

and for carriage .... xxd 1 .

Paid for the suite for the reparation of the chaunsell . xxs."

In this church, a seat, called" the state," was appropriated to the Queen's use
in the chancel, and when royalty was present, this seat was hung with tapestry,
persons were appointed to watch it, a cloth was hung before the pulpit, and the
aisles were strewn with rushes and flowers. — (Coates' History 0/ Reading, 4-to.
1802, p. 227. Man's History of Reading, 4to. 1816, pp. 284, 318.)

Much of the stone- work of the abbey was used in Elizabeth's time for paving
the streets of the town (Lemon's State Papers, June 10, 1577); likewise for the
churches of St. Mary and St. Lawrence, and for building the hospital of the Poor
Knights at Windsor. The work of demolition, however, went on more rapidly
in the troubles that arose in the reign of Charles I. One Richard Symons, a

c c

1 94 Notes.

royalist and antiquary, visited Reading in 1644, and with note-book in hand (now
Harl. MS. 965), jotted down a few memoranda respecting the then state of the
abbey. In that year, he says, " much of y e abbey is still standing — the old
gatehowse and y e roomes on y e east side." He has also sketched the arms of
Queen Elizabeth, and of Seymour with its quarterings, which he found in the
" windowes of a large upper roome, now used as a dyning roome. In this roome
hang divers old pictures of y e family of Knolls ; Sir Francis Knolls did live here."
In the Parliamentary Survey taken in 1650, the " Abbey House" was then in the
occupation of Mr. Richard Knollys. A fine Norman gateway has been fortu-
nately preserved, in spite of numerous threatenings of destruction : the work of
restoration has, we understand, been well performed by Mr. Gilbert Scott. There
is a series of" Views of Reading Abbey, with those of the Churches originally
connected with it, in the County of Berks." 2 vols. 4M. London and Reading,
1805-10.

28. Page 1 2. Queen Elizabeth was said to be an excellent musician. Camden
tells us that she could "play handsomely" on the lute. She was also a good
performer on the Virginals, the prototype of the piano. (See also Note 118.)

29. Page 13. The contemporary literature on the subject of the Spanish
Armada — that " tirannical, prowd, and brainsick attempt," as Queen Elizabeth
wrote to James VI. of Scotland — is very extensive and interesting. A con-
siderable collection, probably the largest contained in any library, is in the British
Museum, particularly in the Grenville library. A few of these curiosities may be
pointed out. One is a handsomely printed broadside copy of verses on the defeat
of the Armada, of the utmost rarity, containing a Latin Epigram by Theodore
de Beze, entitled : " Ad Serenissimam Elizabethan! Anglias Reginam Theodor.
Beza." — Excusum Londini G. B. & R. N. 1588. The Epigram commences,
" Straverat innumeris Hispanus navibus asquor." On the same leaf are translations
in English, Dutch, Spanish, Hebrew, Greek, ] talian, and French ; concluding with
six lines in French addressed " A l'autheur de l'Epigramme Th. de Beze aage
presque de 70 ans." The whole is surrounded by an ornamental woodcut border.
The English translation is so spirited and excellent that we quote it: —

" The Spanish Fleete did flote in narow Seas,
And bend her Ships against the English shore,
With so great rage as nothing could appease,
And with such strength as never seene before.

And all to joine the kingdome of that land,

Unto the kingdoms that he had in hand.
Now if you aske what set this King on fire,
To practise warre when he of peace did treate,
It was his Pride, and never quencht desire,
To spoile that Islands wealth, by Peace made great :
. His Pride which farre above the Heavens did swell,

And his desire as unsuiKced as hell.

Notes. 195

But well have winds his proud blasts overblowen,
And swelling waves alaid his swelling heart,
Well hath the Sea with greedie gulfs unknowen, <

Devourd the devourer to his smart :

And made his Ships a praie unto the sand,

That meant to praie upon anothers land.
And now o Queene above all others blest,
For whom both windes and waves are prest to fight,
So rule your owne, so succour friends opprest,
(As farre from pride, as ready to do right)

That England you, you England long enjoy,

No lesse your friends delight, than foes annoy."

Under the title of " Expeditionis Hispanorum in Angliam vera Descriptio
anno d. mdlxxxviii," was published a series of eleven charts in folio, representing
the several actions while the " Invincible" Armada was on the British coasts.
They were drawn by Robert Adams, and engraved and published by Augustine
Ryther. These plates were intended to accompany the "Discourse concerninge
the Spanishe fleete," written by Petruccio Ubaldino, citizen of Florence ; Lond.
1590, 4'°. Of the charts there are three copies in the British Museum ; that in
the King's Library, formerly belonging to James West, President of the Royal
Society, is bound with a Spanish tract on the equipment of the Armada, written
by Pedro de Paz Salas, the margins of which contain manuscript notes in Lord
Burghley's hand. His lordship has been at the pains of noting the fate of many
of the Spanish galeons : against one he has written, " This shipp was taken by
S r Francis Drak ;" another, " Wrecked in October, in Devonshire, neare Plim-
mouthe ;" another, "This man's ship was drowned, 17 Sept., in the He of
Furemare, Scotland;" another, "This was drowned afor Calliss." This
identical volume, which is particularly referred to by Strype in his " Annals,"
vol. iii. Pt. 2, p. 18, was sold at West's sale in 1773, for the very moderate sum
of £5. The two other copies above referred to form part of the old Royal
collection, and belonged to Queen Elizabeth; one of them is bound with a mag-
nificent coloured edition of Saxton's Maps (the earliest collection of English Maps
ever published, and of which Lord Burghley's copy, with interesting additions
and notes in his own handwriting, is in the manuscript department) ; the other
with Waghenaer's " Mariners Mirrour," the maps in which are also coloured.
The Museum also possesses three contemporary black-letter ballads by T. D.
i. e. Thomas Deloney, a famous ballad-writer of the period. The first sings
of " The Queene's visiting of the Campe at Tilburie, with her entertainment
there ;" the second, " Of the straunge and most cruell Whippes which the
Spanyards had prepared to whippe and torment English men and women ;" the
third, of "The happie obtaining of the great Galleazzo, wherein Don Pedro de
Valdez was the chiefe."

30. Page 13. Harrison, in his " Description of England," prefixed to Holin-

196 Notes.

shed's " Chronicle," edit. 1586-7, p. 197, says, "I might speake here of the
great traines and troopes of serving men, which attend upon the nobilitie of
England in their severall liveries, and with differences of cognisances on their
sleeves, whereby it is knowen to whdme they apperteine. I could also set downe
what a goodlie sight it is to see them muster in the court, which being filled with
them doth yeeld the contemplation of a noble varietie unto the beholder, much
like to the shew of the pecocks taile in the full beautie, or of some medow
garnished with infinit kinds and diversitie of pleasant floures."

A verse of a Ballad in the Roxburghe collection, called " Times alteration," is
likewise illustrative of this custom : —

" The nobles of our Land

Were much delighted then,
To have at their command

A crue of lustie men,
Which by their coats were knowne,

Of tawnie, red, or blue,
With Crests on their sleeves showne,

When this old cap was new."

Hentzner, in 1598, remarks : " The English are lovers of show, liking to be
followed wherever they go by whole troops of servants, who wear their masters'
arms in silver, fastened to the left arms, and are not undeservedly ridiculed for
wearing tails hanging down their backs."

An extremely rare black-letter quarto in the British Museum contains some
interesting' illustrations of manners in the Elizabethan age. It is entitled : "A
Health to the Gentlemanly Profession of Servingmen,"&c. Imprinted at London,
by W. W., 1598. I. M., the initials of the author appended to the Epistle to
the Reader, says (sig. H.), " But yet there remaynes one service, wherein they
[z. e. the ' Potentates and Gentlemen'] must imploy moe men then the tables
attendance requireth, that is, yf their Mistres ryde abrode, she must have vi or viii
Servingmen to attende her, she must have one to carrie her Cloake and Hood,
least it raine, another herFanne, if she use it not herselfe, another her Boxe with
Ruffes and other necessaries, another behinde whom her Mayde or Gentlewoman
must ryde, and some must be loose to open Gates, and supply other services that
may be occasioned, rjow to deminish and cut of this charge, aswell of Horse as
Men, there is now a new invention, and that is, she must have a Coach, wherein
she, with her Gentlewomen, Mayde, and Chyldren, and what necessaries as they
or any of them are to use, may be caryed and conveyed with smaller charge, lesse
cost, and more credite, as it is accompted : for one or two Men at the most,
besides the Coach-man, are sufficient for a Gentlewoman or Lady of worthy
parentage." Speaking of the practice of lessening the number of servants, he
says, " The Gentleman (I know) will thus answere for himselfe, that he is neither
able to do so much for his men, nor to maynteine his port and hospitalitie in so

Notes.

197

bountifull manner as his auncestors in former ages ; for his Father, or Grand-
father payde but xxs. an Oxe, ins. a Mutton, us. a Calfe, vid. a Goose, ini^. a
Capon, \\d. a Henne, and iid. a Pigge, and for all other householde provision the
like rate. Now there is not any thing that belonges to housekeeping, but it is a
triple charge over it was : and whereas one hundred poundes a yeere was a com-
petent lyving to maynteine good hospitalitie, now three hundred pound a yeere
will not defray the charge of such a house, rateably proportionyng all necessaries
thereunto belonging, without exceeding his accustomed plentie. ... In tymes past,
I could have bought Cloth lor ii;. the brode yarde, an Hatt for xild., a Shirt
for xd., a pay re of Bootes for iu. — now I must pay three tymes dearer." Referring
to the decay of hospitality, he says (sig. I 2 verso), " But this decay of Hospita-
litie_hath bred a far greater mischiefe amongst Servingmen. For now every Gen-
tleman almost hath gotten such a rabble of Retayners, as makes poore House-
holde servantes so smally set by as they are. For, what cares a Gentleman now
adayes, to knave and rascal/his Man at every Worde. And yf his Man (as flesh
and blood many tymes cannot indure to be so inhumanely intreated) shal scorne
these ungentlemanlike tearmes, and thinke much for so small a cause, as many
times they are, to be so hardly used : then off goes the Lyverie-Coate, or Cloake,
and packs out of my doores you arrant knave, I wyll have your betters to beare more
then this at my handes. Thus is the poore Servingman turned out of his Lyverie,
and out of doores, having but a bare quarters warning, but not that quarter that
is allowed them by the Statute made for Servants, in quinto of her Maisties reigne,
which is a quarter of a yeere, but scarce a quarter of an houre, to packe up such
apparrell as he hath."

31. Page 14. Moryson {Itin. 1617, Pt. 3, pp. 53, 149), explains this proverb:
"England in generall is said to be the Hell of Horses, the Purgatory of Servants,
and the Paradice of Weomen. The Londiners pronounce woe to him, that buyes
a horse in Smyth-field, that takes a servant in Pauls Church, that marries a wife
out of Westminster. The horses are strong, and for jornies indefatigable ; for
the English, especially Northerne men, ride from day breake to the evening with-
out drawing bit, neither sparing their horses nor themselves : whence is the Pro-
verb — because they ride horses without measure, and use their servants impe-
riously, and their women obsequiously." He adds : " Londiners, and all within
the sound of Bow-Bell, are in reproach called Cocknies, and eaters of buttered
tostes. The Kentish men of old were said to have tayles, because trafficking in the
Low Countries, they never paid full payments of what they did owe, but still left
some part unpaid." Van Meteren, the Dutch historian, has given (ante, p. 73),
his reasons " why England is called the Paradise of Married Women."

32. Page 14. Harrison says: "Our Princes and the Nobilitie have their
cariage commonlie made by carts, wherby it commeth to passe that when the
Queenes Majestie dooth remoove from anie one place to another, there are usuallie
400 carewares, which amount to the summe of 2400 horses, appointed out of the
countries [counties] adjoining, whereby hir cariage is conveied safelie unto the

198 Notes.

appointed place. Hereby also the ancient use of somers and sumpter horsses is in
maner utterlie relinquished, which causeth the traines of our princes in their
progresses to shew far lesse than those of the Kings of other nations." (Desc. of
England, in Holinshed, 1586, p. 220.) A reform in this respect took place about
1604, when the number of carts used in progresses was reduced from 600 to 220.
(Nichols's Prog, of James I. Pref. xiii.)

33. Page 15. There is a View of Windsor in Braun's " Civitates Orbis
Terrarum," done by Georgius Hoefnagel, about 1575. Another interesting
large wood-engraving occurs in Fox's *' Acts and Monuments," 1576. The
Harleian MS. (No. 3749, art. 14) contains an original Survey of Windsor by
John Norden, which was made expressly for James I. in 1607. It is a folio
volume, beautifully executed on vellum and coloured, and has the royal arms at
the back of the title, finely illuminated. It is entitled "A description of the
Honor of Windesor, &c. Taken and performed by the perambulation, view and
delineation of John Norden in anno 1607." In 1850, Mr. J. G. Nichols con-
tributed to the " Gentleman's Magazine " two valuable papers on Windsor Castle
in the reign of Elizabeth. Messrs. Tighe and Davis published, in 1858, two
handsome volumes of " Annals of Windsor," but in this work Hentzner's in-
teresting description of the Windsor of the Elizabethan age is not given. Hcntzner,
who travelled in 1598, says: "Windsor, a royal castle, supposed to have been
begun by King Arthur, its buildings much increased by Edward III. The
situation is entirely worthy of being a royal residence — a more beautiful one is
scarcely to be found ; for from the brow of a gentle rising it enjoys the prospect
of an even and green country ; its front commands a valley extended every way,
and chequered with arable lands and pasturage, clothed with groves, and watered
by that gentlest of rivers, the Thames (placidissimo Thamesi); behind rise several
hills, but neither steep nor very high, crowned with woods, and seeming designed
by nature herself for the purpose of hunting. The Kings of England, invited by
the deliciousness of the place, very often retire hither ; and here was born the
Conqueror of France, the glorious King Edward III, who built the castle anew
from the ground, and thoroughly fortified it with trenches and towers of square
stone ; and having soon after subdued in battle John, King of France, and David,
King of Scotland, he detained them both prisoners here at the same time. This
Castle, besides being the royal Palace, and having some magnificent tombs of the
Kings of England, is famous for the ceremonies pertaining to the Knights of the
Garter ; this Order was instituted by Edward III, the same who triumphed so
illustriously over John, King of France. The Knights of the Garter are strictly
chosen for their military virtues and antiquity of family ; they are bound by
solemn oaths and vow to mutual and perpetual friendship among themselves,, and
to the not avoiding any danger whatever, or even death itself, to support by their
joint endeavours the honour of the Society. They are styled Companions of the
Garter, from their wearing below the left knee a purple garter inscribed in letters
of gold, with Horn soil qui mal y pense — this they wear upon the left leg, in

Notes. 199

memory of one which, happening to get untied, was let fall by a great Lady
passionately beloved by Edward, while she was dancing, and was immediately
snatched up by the King, who to do honour to the Lady, not out of any trifling
gallantry, but with a most serious and honorable purpose, dedicated it to the legs
of the most distinguished nobility. The ceremonies of this Society are celebrated
every year at Windsor on St. George's Day, the tutelar Saint of the Order, the
King presiding; and the custom is, that the Knights Companions should hang up
their helmet and shield, with their arms emblazoned thereon, in some conspicuous
part of the church. There are 3 principal and very large Courts in Windsor
Castle, which give great pleasure to the beholders : the first is enclosed with most
elegant buildings of white stone, flat-roofed and covered with lead ; here the
Knights of the Garter [the poor Knights] are lodged : in the middle is a detached
house, remarkable for its high tower, which the Governor of the Castle inhabits.
In this is the public kitchen, well furnished with proper utensils, besides a spacious
dining-room, where all the poor Knights eat at the same table ; for into this
Society of the Garter, the King and Sovereign elects, at his own choice, certain
persons who must be gentlemen of three descents and such as for their age and
the straitness of their fortunes are fitter for saying their prayers than for the
service of war : to each of them is assigned a pension of £18 per annum, and
clothes : the chief institution of so magnificent a foundation is, that they should
say their daily prayers to God for the King's safety and the happy administration
of the kingdom, for which purpose they attend the service, meeting twice every
day at chapel. The left side of this court is ornamented by a most magnificent
chapel of 134 paces in length, and 16 in breadth : in this are 18 seats, fitted up
in the time of Edward III. for an equal number of Knights. This venerable
building is decorated with the noble monuments of Edward IV, Henry VI, and
Henry VIII, and of his wife Queen Jane. It receives from royal liberality the
annual income of £2,000, and that still much increased by the munificence of
Edward III. [IV.] and Henry VII. The greatest Princes in Christendom
have taken it for the highest honour to be admitted into the Order of the
Garter ; and since its first institution about 20 Kings, besides those of England
who are the Sovereigns of it, not to mention Dukes and persons of the greatest
figure, have been of it. It consists of 26 companions. In the inner Choir of
the Chapel are hung up 16 coats of arms, swords and banners, among which are
those of Charles V. and Rodolphus II, Emperors ; of Philip of Spain ; Henry III.
of France; Frederick II. of Denmark, Sec; of Casimir, Count Palatine of the
Rhine, and other Christian Princes who have been chosen into this Order. In
the back Choir or additional Chapel are shown preparations made by Cardinal
Wolsey, who was afterwards capitally punished [/«■/], for his own tomb, con-
sisting of 8 large brazen columns placed round it, and nearer the tomb four
others in the shape of candlesticks ; the tomb itself is of white and black marble, —
all which are reserved, according to report, for the funeral of Queen Elizabeth,
the expenses already made for that purpose are estimated at upwards of £6o,ooo.

200 Notes.

In the same chapel is the surcoat of Edward III. [IV.], and the tomb of Edward
Fynes, Earl of Lincoln, Baron Clinton and Say, Knight of the most noble Order
of the Garter and formerly Lord High Admiral of England. — The 2nd Court of
Windsor Castle stands upon higher ground and is enclosed with walls of great
strength, and beautified with fine buildings and a tower. It was an ancient Castle,
of which old annals speak in this manner : — King Edward, a.d. 1359, began a
new building in the Castle of Windsor where he was born, for which reason he
took care it should be decorated with larger and finer edifices than other places.
In this part of the Castle were kept prisoners John, King of France, and David,
King of Scots, over whom Edward triumphed at one and the same time : it was by
their advice, struck with the advantage of its situation and out of the sums paid
for their ransom, that by degrees this Castle stretched to such magnificence, as to
appear no longer a fortress but a town of proper extent, and impregnable to any
human force; and this particular part of the Castle was built at the sole expense
of the King of Scotland, except one tower, which, from its having been erected by
the Bishop of Winchester, Prelate of the Order, is called Winchester Tower
[confounded with the Round Tower]. There are 100 steps to it, so ingeniously
contrived that horses can easily ascend them ; it is 1 50 paces in circuit, and within
it are preserved all manner of arms necessary for the defence of the place. — The
3rd Court is much the largest of any, it was built at the expense of the captive
King of France ; as it stands higher, so it greatly excels the two former in
splendour and elegance ; it is 14.8 paces in length by 97 in breadth. In the middle
of it is a fountain of very clear water, brought under the ground at an excessive
expense from the distance of four miles ; towards the East are magnificent apart-
ments destined for the royal household ; towards the South is a tennis-court for
the amusement of the Court; on the North side are the royal apartments con-
sisting of magnificent chambers, halls and stove-rooms, and a private chapel, the
roof of which is embellished with golden roses and fleur-de-lis. On this side too
is that very large banqueting room, 78 paces long and 30 wide, in which the
Knights of the Garter annually celebrate the memory of their tutelar Saint, St.
George, with a solemn and most pompous service. From hence runs a walk of
incredible beauty, 380 paces in length and 7 in breadth, compassed all round
with wooden rails, affording a platform from whence the nobility and persons of
distinction can behold the hunting and hawking which take place in the wide
area below ; for the fields and meadows clad with variety of plants and flowers,
swell gradually into hills of perpetual verdure quite up to the Castle walls, and
beyond stretch out in an extended plain, that strikes the beholders with delight.
Besides what has been already mentioned, there are worthy of notice here two
stove-rooms ceiled and wainscoted with looking-glass ; the bed-chamber in which
Henry VI. was born; Queen Elizabeth's bed-chamber, where is a table of red
marble with white streaks ; a gallery everywhere ornamented with emblems and
figures impressed in plaster ; a chamber in which are the royal beds of Henry VII.
and his queen, of Edward VI, of Henry VIII, and of Anne Boleyn, — all of them

Notes.

201

eleven feet square and furnished with hangings glittering with gold and silver ;
Queen Elizabeth's bed, with curious coverings of embroidery, but not quite
so long or large as the others; a piece of tapestry, in which is represented
Clovis, King of France, with an angel presenting to him the fleur-de-lis to be
borne in his arms ; for before that time the kings of France bore 3 toads in their
shield, instead of which they afterwards placed 3 fleurs-de-lis on a blue field : this
antique tapestry is said to have been taken from a King of France, while the Eng-
lish were masters there. We were shown here among other things the horn of a
unicorn of above 8£ spans in length, valued at above £100,000; a cushion most
curiously wrought by Queen Elizabeth's own hands; the Bird of Paradise, three
spans long, three fingers broad, having a blue bill of the length of half an inch, the
upper part of its head yellow, the under part of prismatic colours {optici coloris) ;
a little lower from either side of its throat stick out some reddish feathers, as well
as from its back and the rest of its body; its wings of a yellow colour are twice
as long as the bird itself; from its back grow out lengthways two fibres or nerves,
bigger at their ends, but like a pretty strong thread, of a leaden colour, inclining
to black, with which, as it has no feet, it is said to fasten itself to trees when it
wants to rest."

Mr. George Gray, of the British Museum, to whom the above description of
a Bird of Paradise was submitted, thinks that what the German traveller saw was
an ornithological fraud — a made-up gaudy specimen, and in truth a very rara avis.
Fable has been busy with these beautiful creatures with which we are now so
familiar — one story, long credited, being that they were legless. The high value
set upon these birds, which were worn as plumes in the turbans of Oriental chiefs,
awakened the cupidity and trickery of the Chinese, who manufactured from par-
rots, parroquets, and other gay specimens of the feathered tribes, artificial Birds of
Paradise; and the natives, in former times, scarcely ever produced a skin from
which they had not carefully removed the feet.

34. Page 16. Perlin {Description a" ' Angleterre, 1558) remarks that the Eng-
lish are great lovers of music, for there is no church, however small, but has musi-
cal service performed in it. Hentzner, in 1598, observes: "The English excel
in dancing and music, for they are active and lively, though of a thicker make
than the French." He adds : " They are vastly fond of great noises that fill the
ear, such as the firing of cannon, drums, and the ringing of bells ; so that in Lon-
don it is common for a number of them, that have got a glass in their heads, to
go into some belfry and ring the bells for hours together for the sake of exercise."

35. Page 16. His Highness certainly had to endure much delay, trouble, and
" hope deferred " ere he himself obtained the long-coveted honour of K.G., which
he perseveringly asserted that the Queen had promised him during this visit. —
See the Introduction.

36. Page 17. This is perhaps the earliest recorded instance of the name-carv-
ing propensity said to belong peculiarly to the English. In the " Guls Horn
Booke," 1609, written by Dekker, the gallant is advised to "pay tribute to

D D

202 Notes.

the top of Powles steeple with a single penny (see ante p. 139); and before you
come downe againe, I would desire you to draw your knife, and grave your
name (or for want of a name, the marke which you clap on your sheepe) in great
caracters upon the leades, and so you shall be sure to have your name lye in a
coffin of lead, when your selfe shall be wrapt in a winding-sheete ; and indeed
the top [i.e. the leads] of Powles contains more names than Stowe's Chronicle."
Another curious practice prevailed. When Christian IV. King of Denmark paid
us a visit in 1606, we are told that: "After dinner the King, being accom-
panyed with the Lord Admirall, the Lord Chamberlayne and others, went by
coach unto Pauls Church, and into the quyer and other chappels, therein. And
then the King and the Lord Chamberlayne with some others ascended the top
of the steeple, and when he had survayed the Cittie, hee helde his foote still whilest
Edward Soper keeper of the Steeple, with his knife cutte the length and breadth
thereof in the lead ; and for a lasting remembrance thereof, the said Soper, within
few dayes after, made the Kinges charecter in gilded copper, and fixed it in the
middest of the print of the Kinges foote, which was no sooner done, but some
rustie mindes of this yron age, thinking all gold that glistred, with violent instru-
ments attempted to steale it." (Stow's Chronicle, • contin. by Howes, 161 5, p. 886.)
So, also, when Sir Symonds D'Ewes, in 1627, was on his wedding tour, after
showing his bride divers of the colleges at Cambridge, " wee went (says he) both
upp to the topp of King's Colledge Chappell, on the south side whereof upon the
leades my wives foote was sett, being one of the least in England, her age and
stature considered, and her armes exsculped within the compasse of the foote in a
small escocheon." (Hearne's Liber Niger Scaccarii, p. 644.)

37. Page 17. Our ancestors held the horn of this animal (supposed to be the
rhinoceros) in high estimation. It was considered to be an absolute antidote to
the effects of poison, and was sold at extravagant prices. The Prince of Anhalt,
who travelled in 1596, notes, in his poetical Itinerary, that there were "two long
Unicorns' horns preserved at Windsor, one perfectly smooth, the other of a spiral
form and nearly four ells long:" —

" Zwey lang' Einhorner seind daselbsten auch verwahrt,
Das eine war gar glat, und eins gewundner art,
Fast an vier ellen lang"

Hentzner, in 1598, says: "We were shown here, among other things, the
horn of a Unicorn, of above eight spans and a half in length, valued at above
£100,000!" An unicorn's horn at Somerset House, valued at £500, occurs in
the Inventory of the plate, goods, &c. of King Charles I. There is a charming
touch of satire in the following merry verse of Master Thomas Weelkes, Gentle-
man of Her Majesties chapel in 1 606 (Jyres or Pbantastkke Spirites), —
" Ha, ha, ha, ha ! this world doth pass
Most merrily I'll be sworn;
For many an honest Indian Ass
Goes for an Unicorn."

Notes.

20 '.

And in the'List of "Sights" in England, temp. James I. (see p. 139), the over-
scrupulous author refers to

" That home of Windsor (of an Unicorne very likely)."

In 1641, the Marquis de la Ferte Imbaut, Marshal of France, saw in the Tower
of London a Unicorn's horn, covered with plates of silver, and estimated at the
enormous sum of £40,000.

38. Page 18. Norden writes of Hampton Court: "There are belonging
to this princely Pallace two parkes, the one of deare, the other of hares, both in-
vironed with wals of bricke, the south side of the deare parke excepted, which is
paled and invironed with the Thamise. It is admirable to consider the mightie
and huge buyldinges, and the multitude of bricke ther disposed. But more admi-
rable to waye the founder [Card. Wolsey], his person, state and wealth. But in
those dayes men of his place, howsoever, gathered wher they strewed not, reaped
wher they sowed not, [and receyved and exacted wher, when, what and of whom
they listed], and so grew to wealth infinite, [to gredynes insatiable]. But as this
kinglie mansion was a seate beseminge a more worthy person, [so it soone] it came
to a prince fitt for the place, renowned King H. 8. And now is our most
gracious Quene Elizabeths, who God graunt may grace it w lh her prosperous
life, Enochs yeares, if Jehovah please so to voutsaufe." (Description of Middle-
sex, 1 592. Harl. MS. 570.)

Six years later, Hentzner thus describes Hampton Court : — " Hampton Court
is a Royal Palace, magnificently built with brick by Cardinal Wolsey in ostenta-
tion of his wealth, where he enclosed five ample courts, consisting of noble edifices
in very beautiful work. Over the gate in the znd area is the Queen's device, a
golden Rose, with this motto : Dieu et mon Droit. On the inner side of this
gate are the effigies of the 12 Roman Emperors in plaister. The chief area is
paved with square stone ; in its centre is a fountain that throws up water, covered
with a gilt crown, on the top of which is a statue of Justice, supported by columns
of black and white marble. The Chapel of this Palace is most splendid, in
which the Queen's closet is quite transparent, having its windows of crystal. We
were led into two chambers, called the presence, or chamber of audience, which
shone with tapestry of gold, silver and silk of different colours; under the canopy
of state are these words embroidered in pearl : Vivat Rex Henricus VIII. Here
is besides a small Chapel richly hung with tapestry, where the Queen performs
her devotions. In her bed-chamber the bed was covered with very costly cover-
lids of silk. At no great distance from this room we were shewn a bed, the tester
of which was worked by Anne Boleyn, and presented by her to her hus-
band Henry VIII. All the other rooms, being very numerous, are adorned with
tapestry of gold, silver and velvet, in some of which were woven history pieces ;
in others, Turkish and American dresses, all extremely natural. In the Hall are
these curiosities : — A very clear looking-glass, ornamented with columns and little
images of alabaster ; a portrait of Edward VI, brother to Queen Elizabeth ; the

204 Notes.

true portrait ofLucretia; a picture of the Battle of Pavia; the History of Christ's
passion, carved in mother of pearl ; the portraits of Mary Queen of Scots, who
was beheaded, and her daughter [several mistakes here] ; the portrait of Ferdinand,
Prince of Spain, and of Philip his son; that of Henry VIII, under it was placed
the Bible curiously written upon parchment; an artificial sphere; several musical
instruments ; in the tapestry are represented negroes riding upon elephants. The
bed in which Edward VI. is said to have been born and where his mother Jane
Seymour died in childbed ; in one chamber were several excessively rich tapestries,
which are hung up when the Queen gives audience to foreign ambassadors ; there
were numbers of cushions ornamented with gold and silver ; many counterpanes
and coverlids of beds lined with ermine : in short, all the walls of the Palace shine
with gold and silver. Here is also a certain cabinet called Paradise, where
besides that everything glitters so with silver, gold and jewels, as to dazzle one's
eyes, there is a musical instrument made all of glass, except the strings."

The Duke of Saxe- Weimar, in 1613, visited Hampton Court. In the Journal
of his Travels it is stated that all the apartments and galleries were covered with
rush matting : — " alle Gemacher und Galerien waren mit geflochtenen Decken
aus Wintzen belegt."

39. Page 18. Hentzner remarks: "Afterwards (in Sept. 1598) we were
led into the gardens [at Hampton Court], which are most pleasant ; here we saw
Rosemary so planted and nailed to the walls as to cover them entirely — which is
a method exceedingly common in England." The Prince of Anhalt, in 1596,
speaks of the fine hedges of rosemary to be seen at Somerset House, afterwards the
residence of Queen Anne of Denmark, and on that account called Denmark House.
John Gerard, who possessed a flourishing garden in Holborn, 'within the suburbs
of London? says (Herball, 1597): " They make hedges of it in the gardens of Italie
and Englande, being a great ornament unto the same." The several virtues of the
plant are mentioned by him. (See also Nares' Glossary for allusions by the old
English poets and dramatists.) The same Gerard, * Surgeon and Herbalist to
the King,' held a lease of a garden-plot adjoining Somerset House, on condition
of his supplying Queen Anne of Denmark with herbs, flowers, and fruit. (Calen-
dar of State Papers, 1604.) It was surrendered to the Queen in June, 161 1.
Horace Walpole, alluding to Hentzner's description of the gardens at Theobalds,
remarks : " We are apt to think that Sir William Temple and King William [III.]
were in a manner the introducers of gardening into England : by the description
of Lord Burleigh's gardens at Theobalds and those at Nonsuch, we find that the
magnificent tho' false taste was known here as early as the reigns of Henry VIII.
and his daughter." Harrison, in his Description of England (Holinshed, 1586),
on the same pleasant subject of gardens, says : " If you looke into our gardens
annexed to our houses, how wonderfullie is their beautie increased, not onelie
with floures and varietie of curious and costlie workmanship, but also with rare
and medicinable hearbes sought up in the land within these fortie yeeres ; so that
in comparison of this present, the ancient gardens were but dunghills and laistowes

Notes. 205

to such as did possesse them So curious and cunning are our Gardeners

now in these daies, that they presume to doo in maner what they list with nature,
and moderate hir course in things as if they were hir superiours. For mine owne
part, good reader, let me boast a litle of my garden, which is but small, and the
whole area thereof little above 300 foot of ground, and yet, such hath beene my
good lucke in purchase of the varietie of simples that notwithstanding my small
abilitie, there are verie neere three hundred of one sort and otherfconteined therein,
no one of them being common or usuallie to bee had. If therefore my little
plot, void of all cost in keeping be so well furnished, what shall we think of those
of Hampton Court, Nonesuch, Tibaults, Cobham Garden, and sundrie other
apperteining to diverse citizens of London whom I could particulate name."
One of Lord Bacon's delightful Essays treats of the subject of gardening.

40. Page 1 8. Sir Martin Frobisher, in his second voyage to the North West
in 1577, brought over from the newly-discovered territory, named by the Queen
" Meta Incognita," a native man, woman, and child. Among the accounts of
Frobisher's three voyages kept by Michael Lok, " Treasurer of the Company of
Cathay," Frobisher is allowed a payment of £17 \%s. $d. for apparel and
expenses of the " strange man and woman," who both died at Bristol; the child
being brought to London. There is a charge for maintaining this child and its
nurse for eight days at the Three Swans, and then for its burial in St. Olave's,
Hart Street, and also the charges of the surgeon who attended it. Large and
small portraits were made for the Queen and the Company ; the Queen's were
sent to Hampton Court. In the MS. Inventory of Charles I's effects sold after
his death {Harl. MS. 4898), a picture of" A Cataia, or Island Man," with "A
Cataia Woman" at Hampton Court, were sold for £6. They afterwards appear
in the catalogue of James IPs pictures, and were again at Hampton Court.
{Harl. MS. 1890, fo. 79.) I have hitherto been unable to find any trace of
their present whereabouts; possibly they may be discovered in some of the royal
palaces. The payments in regard to these pictures are curious and interesting : —

"Paid to Cornellis Ketteller, paynter, as fol°. £ s. d.

For a greate picture, of the strainge man in his apell [apparel] .500
For a great picture of him in Englishe apell . . . .500

For an other picture of him in his apparel! . . . .500

For a smalle picture of him . . . . . . .100

For his picture naked, or waxe molde . . . . .100

Paid to Petter Gilbart, Dutchman, for iii great frames and waynscott
at 8 8b . pece, and a small frame 2 sh . and nayles i sh . 6 d . for the
Tartar mans picture . . . . . . . .176

Paid to Petter Gilbarte for ii great frames for the strainge manes

pictures to send over seas . . . . . . .0160"

The artist likewise received £6 for a ' great picture of the shippe Gabriell,'
and £5 for a * great picture of Captayne Furbusher.'

206 Notes.

In his former voyage also, in 1 576, it appears from these accounts that Frobisher
brought over one of the natives, who died here ; and it is possible that Shake-
speare's quip in the Tempest, on the scramble of the "holiday fools" to see a
" dead Indian," has reference to Frobisher's poor captive Esquimaux.

£ s. d.
" Paid for apparrell for the strange man of Cathay or new land India I 10 o
Paid Mr. Crowe, the surgeon, for opening of the India man, and

balmyng him dead . . . . . . . .500

For Bedding for him spoyled in his sickness . . . .0160

For household charge, Potticarye in his sickness, and folke highered

to tend him and wind him . . . . . . 1 io 6

For a CoiFyne, bran to pak him, and other [things] . . .0114

For Wax to make his mold in pictur . . . . .0100

Paid Cornelius Kettell, payntar Ducheman,for making a great Pic-
ture of the whole bodye of the strange man in his garments, £5,
and the Joyner for a frame and case for it, which was given the
Queen's Majesty, 13J. \d. . . . . . . .5134

For another lyke Picture and frame for it, which is for the Com-

panye . . . . . . . . . .580

For two other small Pictures of his head . . . . .200

Paid W m . Cure, Duchemane graver, for making a mould of hard
earthe of the Tartar man's ymage to be cast in wax . . 1 13 4"

{Proceedings of the Record Commission, Edited by C. P. Cooper, 1833, folio. Of
this work only 50 copies were struck off. The printing of this and similar
valuable matter among the " Agenda" gave rise to a searching investigation and
censure by the Select Committee of the House of Commons, appointed in 1836.)
John Allde had a license to print [1577-8, Jan. 30], — "A description of the
purtrayture and shape of those strange kinde of people whiche M r . Martin Four-
boisier brought into England a . 1576 and 1577." Cornelius Kettell, or more
properly Ketel, above mentioned, was born at Gouda in 1548. He came to
England in 1573, and was much employed by the merchants in paintirig portraits.
He also painted several of the nobility, and, in 1578, the Queen herself. He left
this country in 1 581, and settled at Amsterdam. Subsequently this painter laid
aside his brushes, and painted with his fingers, and succeeding so well, at length
attempted it with his feet. (See Walpole's Anecdotes of Painting!) There is a
Portrait of him at Hampton Court, probably by himself. William Cure is com-
mended by Meres, his contemporary, as an excellent engraver, meaning sculptor.
Walpole could find no other account of him. But in Devon's Issues of the Exche-
quer, there are payments, in 1606 and 1613, to Cornelius and William Cure, His
Majesties Master Masons, for making the tomb of Mary Queen of Scots in West-
minster Abbey, amounting in the whole to £825 iar.

41. Page 19. Norden writes : "Queen Elizabeth hath of late caused a very

Notes. 207

beautifull fountaine there to be erected in the second court, which graceth the
Pallace, and serveth to great and necessarie use ; the fountaine was finished in
anno 1590, not without great charge." {Description of Middlesex, 1593.) In
his MS. of this work, dated the year before, he has added at this place, " Besydes
the mayne buyldinge ther are dispersed sundrye towres or rather bowers, for
places of recreation and solace, and for sundry other uses." Hentzner notes : " In
a garden joining the Palace [at Whitehall], there is a jet-d'eau, with a sun-dial,
which while strangers are looking at, a quantity of water, forced by a wheel,
which the gardener turns at a distance, through a number of little pipes, plenti-
fully sprinkles those that are standing around." Likewise at Nonesuch, Hentzner
noticed " a pyramid of marble, full of concealed pipes, which spirt upon all who
come within their reach."

42. Page 19. Hentzner, in 1598, describes his visit to the Tower of London
as follows : — " Upon entering, we were obliged to leave our swords at the gate,
and deliver them to the guard. When we were introduced, we were shown
about 100 pieces of arras belonging to the crown, made of gold, silver, and silk ;
several saddles covered with velvet of different colours ; an immense quantity of
bed-furniture, such as canopies and the like, some of them most richly ornamented
with pearl ; some royal dresses so extremely magnificent, as to raise any one's
admiration at the sums they must have cost. We were next led into the Armoury,
in which are these particularities: spears, out of which you may shoot; shields
that will give fire four times ; a great many rich halberds, commonly called partisans,
with which the guard defend the Royal person in battle ; some lances covered
with red and green velvet, and the suit of armour of King Henry VIII ; many
very beautiful arms, as well for men as for horses in horse-fights ; the lance of
Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, 3 spans thick [this was a bourdonnass, or
hollow lance — Meyrick] ; two pieces of cannon, the one fires three, the other
seven balls at a time ; two others made of wood, which the English had at the
siege of Boulogne in France, and by this stratagem, without which they could
not have succeeded, they struck a terror into the inhabitants, as at the appearance
of artillery, and the town was surrendered upon articles; 19 cannons of a
thicker make than ordinary, and in a room apart 36 of a smaller size; other
cannons for chain-shot; and balls proper to bring down masts of ships. Cross-
bows, bows and arrows, of which to this day the English make great use in their
exercises. Eight or nine men, employed by the year, are scarcely sufficient to
keep all the arms bright. On coming out of the Tower, we were led to a small
house close by, where are kept a variety of creatures, viz. 3 lionesses ; one lion
of great size, called Edward VI, from his having been born in that reign; a
tiger; a lynx; a wolf excessively old — this is a very scarce animal in England,
so that their sheep and cattle stray about in great numbers, free from any danger,
though without anybody to keep them ; there is besides a porcupine and an
eagle. All these creatures are kept in a remote place, fitted up for the purpose
with wooden lattices, at the Queen's expense. Near to the Tower is a large

208 Notes.

open space ; on the highest part of it is erected a wooden scaffold, for the execu-
tion of noble criminals, upon which they say, three princes of England, the last
of their families, have been beheaded for high treason."

43. Page 20. In the beginning of September, 1566, Queen Elizabeth
honoured the University of Oxford by a visit, staying there a week, winning
golden opinions, and leaving behind a pair of richly embroidered gloves and a cuff,
which are to be seen in the Bodleian Library. She repeated her visit in the
same month of the year 1592 {i.e. a few weeks later than the visit of our Duke),
desiring to behold — as Ant. a Wood informs us — " the change and amendment
of learning and manners" which had taken place during the long interval. She
thanked the Oxonians in choice Latin for their complimentary speeches, having,
as saith the facetious Fuller, " as good a command of her Latin tongue as of her
loyal subjects." On the former occasion Thomas Neale, Hebrew Professor, pre-
sented to her a little book of Latin verses containing the description of all the
colleges, halls, &c. Some views were at the same time offered to her and exhibited
publicly, which were drawn by John Bereblock, Fellow of Exeter College, who
was " most admirably well skill'd in the art of delineation," and who wrote like-
wise an account of this royal visit, which was long afterwards (1729) published
by Hearne. The verses by Neale were published by Miles Windsore in 1 590,
and by Hearne (with the views engraved), in 1713. The oldest Plan of the
University and City is that by Ralph Aggas in 1578. This was re-engraved in
1728 on two sheets, with copies of Bereblock's views introduced in the margin.
At the bottom is " Augustinus Ryther, Anglus, delineavit 1588 " — the same who
engraved and published the interesting series of charts of the Spanish Armada.
There are also some curious verses, one referring to the map of London, by which
Aggas is so well known : —

" Neare tenn years paste, the author made a doubt,
Whether to print or laie this worke aside,
Untill he first had London platted out,
Which still he craves —

Meantime, the measure, forme and sight I bringe

Of antient Oxford noblenesse of skill —

A citie seated ritch in euerye thinge,

Girte with woode and water, pasture, come and hill :

He tooke the vewe from North and soe he leaves it still,

For there the buildings make the bravest showe,

And from those Walkes the Scholers best it knowe."

The notice of Aggas and his Oxford map, by Walpole and his editors, is faulty.
There is a small coloured View of Oxford in 1588, by William Smith, Rouge

Notes. 209

Dragon Pursuivant, in the Sloane MS. 2596. An engraved view, about 1575,
is in Braun's " Civitates Orbis Terrarum." Loggan published a collection of views
in 1675. See also Skelton's fine work, " Oxonia antiqua restaurata," 1823.

44. Page 20. Thomas Sackville, Earl of Dorset, was at this time Chancellor.

45. Page 21. The description of the colleges of Oxford and Cambridge was written
in Latin by one Simon Bibeus, an Englishman, and it would seem to have been pub-
lished and probably used as a guide-book to the Universities in the very year in which
this German visit was paid. A copy of it was no doubt taken back by our tra-
vellers, and the matter adopted and introduced in this Journal of the Duke of
Wirtemberg. It appears to have been unknown to those who have written on
the subject of the two Universities. Herr Rathgeb has, of course, made sad havoc
with the English names; but these the editor has rectified by Wood and Chalmers
for Oxford, and by Fuller, Dyer, and other authorities for Cambridge ; indeed,
without such aid, some of the names thus ' iibersetzt,' z. e. overset or upset, would
be hopelessly unrecognizable. Nothing appears to be known of the writer, Simon
Bibeus. He dedicates his work to Whitgift, Archbishop of Canterbury, whom he
calls his patron. Might he not have been connected with " Simon Bibye, esq.
of Bugden, Huntingdonshire," whose daughter (according to Collins' Baronetage)
married the royalist baronet Sir Edward Lake, who died in 1674?

46. Page 21. All this is an " imagined piece of antiquity," says Anthony
Wood. The same remark may be applied to the description of the early days of
Cambridge.

47. Page 22. William of Durham willed estates for the purpose; he died in
1249. Purchases were made 1 253-1 280.

48. Page 29. The following represents the return made of the rents of every
college in Oxford, according to which they were taxed for the Entertainment of
Queen Elizabeth in the thirty-fourth year of her reign, 1592 (See Gutch's Collect.
Curiosa, vol. i. p. 190):—!. Christ Church, £2000 ; 2. Magd. Coll., £1200;
3. New Coll., £1000 ; 4. All Souls, £500; 5. Corpus Christi Coll., £500 ; 6.
Merton, £400; 7. St. John's, £400 ; 8. Brasenose, £300 ; 9. Queen's, £260;
10. Exon, £200; 11. Oriel, £200; 12. Trinity, £200; 13. Lincoln, 130;
14. University, £100; 15. Balliol, £100; 16. Jesus, £70. Total, £7560.
(See Note 43.)

49. Page 30. " The colleges of Oxford (says Harrison) for curious worke-
manship and privat commodities, are much more statelie, magnificent, and com-
modious than those of Cambridge ; and thereunto the streets of the towne for the
most part more large and comelie. But for uniformitie of building, orderlie com-
paction and politike regiment, the towne of Cambridge, as the newer workman-
ship exceedeth that of Oxford (which otherwise is and hath beene the greater of
the two) by manie a fold (as I gesse), although I know diverse that are of the con-
trarie opinion. This also is certeine, that whatsoever the difference be in building
of the towne streets, the townesmen of both are glad when they may match and
annoie the students, by incroching upon their liberties, and keepe them bare by

E E

2 1 o Notes.

extreame sale of their wares, whereby manie of them become rich for a time, but
afterward fall againe into povertie, bicause that goods evill gotten doo seldome
long indure." {Description of England, in Holinshed ; 1586, p. 148.)

Anthony Wood pays but a poor compliment to the Oxford of his day when
he says that, if it were not for the colleges, it " would be one of the beggarliest
places in England."

Hentzner, in 1 598, terms Oxford " the famed Athens of England." He says :
** The students lead a life almost monastic ; for as the monks had nothing in the
world to do, but when they had said their prayers at stated hours, to employ
themselves in instructive studies, no more have these. They are divided into
three tables: the first is called the Fellows' table, to which are admitted Earls,
Barons, Gentlemen, Doctors, and Masters of Arts, but very few of the latter ;
this is more plentifully and expensively served than the others. The second is for
Masters and Bachelors of Arts, some Gentlemen, and eminent Citizens. The third
for people of low condition. While the rest are at dinner or supper in a great
Hall, where they are all assembled, one of the Students reads aloud the Bible, which
is placed on a desk in the middle of the Hall, and this office every one of them
takes upon himself in his turn ; as soon as grace is said after each meal, every one
is at liberty either to retire to his own chambers, or to walk in the college garden,
there being none that has not a delightful one. Their habit is almost the same
as that of the Jesuits, their gowns reaching down to their ancles, sometimes lined
with fur; they wear square caps; the Doctors, Masters of Arts, and Professors
have another kind of gown that distinguishes them. Every student of any con-
siderable standing has a key to the Library of his college.

" In an outpart of the town are the remains of a pretty large fortification, but
quite in ruins. We were entertained at supper with an excellent concert, com-
posed of variety of instruments."

The Prince of Anhalt, in 1596, was entertained by the Oxford collegians,
and in his Itinerary he has quizzed the ladies in the following verse : what would
his satirical Highness have said had he been present at a ' Commemoration?'

" Es liessen sich aldar auch weibesbilder sehn,
Wo das geprange war, sie konten nichts verstehn
Was man Lateinisch redt : doch wurden sie getrieben
Durch fiirwitz und den schein, ob wer'es ein belieben
Zur freyen kunst, es war nichts als die eitelkeit,
Die ihren schonen glantz zu schauen an so beut :
Sie sassen hier und dar nach ihrem wolgefallen,
Und wusten anders nichts, als Englisch her zu lallen."

"There in the glittering throng fair women might be seen,
Who of the Latin speeches understood no word ;
Yet led by forwardness and show, as if from love
Of liberal arts, shed forth their radiance to the gaze
Of all — from nothing else but idle vanity !

Notes. 2 1 1

Where'er it liked them best they sat, and lisp'd on still

In their own English tongue ; 'twas all that they could do."

We are reminded here of Lord Francis Leveson Gower's (Egerton Ellesmere)
curious mistake in translating from Goethe's " Faust " the line : —

" Und lispeln englisch wenn sie liigen,"

" And lisp in English when they lie,"
instead of

" And lisp like Angels when they lie."

" Non Angli, sed Angeli," was the punning remark of Gregory the Great, when
he saw the fair Saxon children in the market-place at Rome.

50. Page 32. In August, 1564, Queen Elizabeth visited Cambridge, where
she remained five days. The maps and views of Cambridge executed during
her reign may here be mentioned. Richard Lyne's valuable map of 1574 is
referred to in Note 52. There is a coloured plan drawn by William Smith,
Rouge Dragon Pursuivant, in 1588, in the Sloane MS. 2596. An engraved bird's-
eye view of about the date 1575 occurs in Braun's interesting collection of " Civi-
tates Orbis Terrarum." Another is said to have been executed by Ralph Aggas,
whose map of London is well known, but of this of Cambridge no copy has
hitherto been discovered. Loggan published a fine collection of views in 1688.
Hentzner, the German traveller, visited Cambridge in 1598; he enumerates
briefly the several colleges. Alluding to Trinity Chapel, he says : " On its right
side is a fine library, where we saw the Book of Psalms in manuscript upon parch-
ment, four spans in length, and three broad, taken from the Spaniards at the siege
of Cadiz, and thence brought into England with other rich spoils."

51. Page 32. During the year 1592 there were two Vice-Chancellors of
Cambridge University, — Dr. John Still, Master of Trinity College, afterwards
Bishop of Bath and Wells, and Thomas Legge, Master of Gonville and Caius
College. Lord Burghley was Chancellor.

52. Page 33. Fuller, dismissing all these fables, commences his history of
Cambridge University at the Norman Conquest, not wishing, as he says, to make
any difference betwixt the sisters, which should be the eldest. The superior
antiquity claimed for Cambridge over the sister University in a speech delivered by
the Public Orator of the former before Queen Elizabeth, when she visited that
University in 1 564, gave rise to a fierce and furious literary controversy. The
two Caius ' (Kaye or Keye), were the principal combatants. Thomas Caius, of
All Souls, entered the arena on the side of Oxford, in 1568, while the more cele-
brated Dr. John Caius, the founder of Gonville and Caius College, and not related
to the Oxford man, maintained the opinion advanced by the Cambridge Orator.
The literary weapons, pro and con, are in our national library. It is said that no
less than 380 writers engaged on the part of Oxford, and 1 10 on that of Cam-
bridge. One volume in the British Museum is of considerable interest. It con-

2 1 2 Notes.

sists of three tracts in Latin, the first two being republications of the pieces of the
Keyes before mentioned, and printed by John Daye, in 1 574 and 5 ; the last being
the History of the University of Cambridge, by Dr. John Caius. This volume,
very handsomely bound, with an elaborately worked pattern in gold, was a pre-
sent to James I. from John Parker, the son of the Archbishop of Canterbury,
whose MS. dedication to the King is prefixed. In it is the highly interesting and
supposed unique Map of Cambridge, engraved at the expense of the Archbishop,
by Richard Lyne, and dated 1574, and accompanied by the arms of the several
colleges, &c. all finely coloured.

53. Page 43. Probably his Highness slept in the " Great Bed," although our
careful chronicler has not noticed the circumstance. The Duke's son's secretary,
eighteen years later, was more exact (see p. 62). Vallans, who was a native of
Ware, seems to point to something remarkable by mentioning the inn at which
the bed was formerly kept, in the following lines in his " Tale of Two Swannes,"
1590:—

" And this was done least that undecently

They should passe by the guested towne of Ware,

Thus ordered they came by Byrches house,

That whilom was the Brothers Friers place ;

Then by the Crowne, and all the innes of Ware."
Perhaps the earliest recorded mention of this celebrated " piece of furniture"
is contained in the Poetical Itinerary of the Prince Ludwig, of Anhalt-Kohten,
who visited this country in 1 596, a period anterior, by five years, to Shakespeare's
" Twelfth Night," in which the well-known allusion (act iii. sc. 2) occurs. It
is in these words : —

" Es war in Wahr ein Bett '
An weitem raume, das auch vier par leute hett*
In sich geruhiglich beysammen lassen liegen,
Das keines sich genau ans andre durfte schmiegen."

Which may be thus rendered : —

"At Ware was a bed of dimensions so wide,
Four couples might cosily lie side by side,
And thus without touching each other abide."

Good engravings of the bedstead will be found in Clutterbuck's "Hertford-
shire," and in Shaw's " Specimens of Ancient Furniture." Its date is of the reign
of Elizabeth, and its dimensions are 10 ft. 9 in. in length, 10 ft. 9 in. in width, and
7 ft. 6i in. in height. In September, 1864, this famous Shakespearean bed was
sold by auction, and purchased for 100 guineas, for Mr. Charles Dickens, and is
now, we believe, at Gad's Hill, a famous Shakespearean locality.

54. Page 44. Vallans and Nbrden speak in raptures of the once magnificent
seat of Theobalds, which was in the parish of Cheshunt, Hertfordshire. The

Notes. 2 1 3

former, in his " Tale of Two Swannes," 1590 (an early specimen of blank verse),
thus alludes to it : —

" Now see these Swannes the new and worthie seate
Of famous Cicill, treasoror of the land —

* • » •

The House itselfe doth shewe the owners wit,
And may for bewtie, state and every thing,
Compared be with most within the land."

And Norden, the earliest historian of Hertfordshire, writing in 1 598, says —
" To speake of the state and beuty therof at large as it deserveth, for curious
buildinges, delightfull walkes and pleasant conceites within and without, and
other thinges very glorious and ellegant to be seene, would challenge a great
portion of this little treatise, and therfore least I should come shorte of that
due cwnmendation that it deserveth, I leave it as indeed it is a princely
seat." Lord Burghley, in a letter dated August 14, 1585, says, "My House at
Theobalds was begun by me with a mean mesure, but encreast by occasions of
her Majesty's often coming, whom to please, I never would omit to strain myself
to more charges than building it. And yet not without some speciall direction of
her Majesty. Upon fault found with the smal mesure of her chamber (which
was in good mesure for me), I was forced to enlarge a room for a larger chamber;
which need not be envied of any for riches in it, more than the shew of old oaks,
and such trees with painted leaves and fruit." Strype adds : " And coates of
armes, for so he had painted this new room for the Queen, set forth with several
trees of several sorts, with the armes of the nobility, officers of state, the
bishops," &c. At Theobalds the lord treasurer had thirty persons in family, and
besides a constant allowance in charity, he directed £10 a week to be laid out in
keeping the poor at work in the garden. The expenses of his stables were 1000
marks a year. Not less than twelve times he entertained the Queen at his house
for several weeks together, at the expense of £3000 each time. His contemporary
Biography, printed in Peck's " Desiderata Curiosa," informs us in addition : " He
greatly delighted in making gardens, fountains, and walks, which at Theobalds
were perfected most costly, bewtifully and pleasauntly, where one might walk
twoe myle in the walkes before he came to their ends." Lord Burghley's son,
Sir Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, in 1607 exchanged Theobalds with
James I, for the equally fine palace of Hatfield. Shortly after the exchange (161 1),
the architect, John Thorpe, was employed to make a survey of the Park. The
very plan, drawn on vellum and coloured, exists among the Cottonian MSS.
(Aug. I. i. 75). Theobalds became the King's favourite country residence during
the whole of his reign. Here was the scene of his revellings with the jovial King
of Denmark; here he hunted with the young Duke of Saxe Weimar, and touched
for the evil (see ante, p. 149), and here he breathed his last on March 27, 1625.
Theobalds Road, in London, was' so called, because it led to James's pleasant

214 Notes.

hunting-seat. On leaving Whitehall, the King was in the habit of going through
the Strand, up Drury Lane, into Holborn, Kingsgate Street, and Theobalds Road.
Charles I. occasionally resided at Theobalds ; but in 1 649, on the sale of the
Crown lands, notwithstanding the recommendation of the Commissioners to the
Rebel Parliament to save it from destruction, it was pulled down, the materials
sold, and the money divided among the soldiers. Not a vestige of the mansion
now remains; but the name is preserved in the residence of the eminent brewer
Sir Henry Meux, Bart., and some houses erected on the site of the old palace.

** Thro' Theobalds passing, we the bounds remark
Of a once Royal Court and stately Park,
But now from its primaeval pride decay'd,
Villas of wealthy Cits possess the shade."

[Scarborough : a Poem, 1734.)

There is a view of the old royal house in the " Gentleman's Magazine" for
1836, which accompanies an interesting notice of the Palace by John Gaugh
Nichols, Esq. ; a folio plate of the same view, engraved at the expense of the
Society of Antiquaries, was published in 1765, under the misnomer of Richmond
Palace. It is also engraved in the 2nd part of Drummond's splendid folio work
on " Noble British Families," published by Pickering, together with a view of
its interior, from a picture belonging to Earl Paulet. In this latter are portraits
of Charles I. and his Queen, the Earls of Pembroke and Montgomery, and last
and least, the famous dwarf Jeffery Hudson, with three of King Charles's favourite
spaniels. The portrait of the diminutive hero, which was engraved by John
Droeshout (incorrectly called by Walpole Martin, the engraver of the famous
Shakespeare portrait in the first folio), and inserted in the little volume, entitled
" The New Yeeres Gift," 1 63 8, we have discovered to be identical with Mytens's
fine picture at Hampton Court ; the accessories, however, differ. (See also
Note 136.)

55. Page 45. Hentzner, at the period of his visit in the beginning of Sep-
tember, 1598, was not admitted to the apartments of the Palace, as the family
were then in town owing to the recentdeath of its late noble owner. The Prince
of Anhalt,in 1596, devotes a few lines of his German verse to Theobalds, which
he mentions under the distorted form of Die Wals.

56. Page 46. According to Stow's " Survay of London," 1598, p. 331, on
the " West banke [in Southwark] there be the two Beare-gardens, the old and
new places wherein be kept Beares, Bulks, and other beastes, to be bayted. As
also Mastiues in seuerall kenels, are there nourished to bait them. These Beares
and other beastes are there bayted in .plottes of grounde, scaffolded about for the
beholders to stand safe."

These buildings are shown in the old maps of Aggas, Braun, and Visscher.
One of them gave place to the Globe Theatre — the * glory of the Bank' — where
Shakespeare's plays were originally performed, and which appears to have been

Notes. 2 1 5

erected in 1593 and 1594. Edward Alleyn, the celebrated actor and founder
of Dulwich College, held in the next reign the post of " Master of the King's
games of bears, bulls, and mastiff dogs." These popular but brutal pastimes which
often took place on Sundays, have been well described by Hentzner and by Master
Robert Laneham. The latter, an "admirable conceited fellow," or, as Sir
Walter Scott calls him, "as great a coxcomb as ever blotted paper," treats us
to a morceau which is rich enough to be reproduced in part. " It waz a sport,"
says he, being an eyewitness of the " princelye pleasures" at Kenilworth, "very
pleazaunt of theez beastz : to see the bear with hiz pink nyez leering after hiz
enmiez approch, the nimblness and wayt of y e dog too take hiz auauntage, and the
fors and experiens of the bear agayn to auoyd the assauts : if he wear bitten in
one place, hoow he woold pynch in an oother too get free : that if he wear taken
onez, then what shyft with byting, with clawyng, with roring, tossing and tum-
bling, he woold woork too wynde hymself from them ; and when he waz lose, to
shake hiz earz twyse or thryse wyth the blud and the slauer aboout hiz fiznamy,
waz a matter of a goodly releef." {Letter from Killingwoorth Cast/, 1575, p. Z3.)

It is perhaps worth pointing out that the above racy and grandiloquent language
has been made to do service, totidem verbis — with an improved orthography,
however, yet without any sign of quotation — for a similar " sport" enacted in
1586 before Queen Elizabeth and the Danish Ambassador, Ramelius, described
in Holinshed's " Chronicles," vol. iii. p. 1562.

There is a curious entry in the " Calendar of State Papers" (1610, Sept. 6),
of a licence granted by Sir George Buck, the then " Master of the Revels," for
Thomas Morris and two others, " to shew a strange Lion brought to do strange
things, as turning an ox to be roasted," &c. The wonders of Bankes's horse,
mentioned by Shakespeare and our early dramatists, are well known. Shake-
speare, in the " Tempest," act ii. sc. z, has admirably quizzed the eagerness of
the sight-loving portion of the English public after such matters. The "sights"
of London and elsewhere, in the reign of James I, as described in English hexa-
meters, will be found under No. XII. See also Farley's verses, Note 16.

Hentzner, in the beginning of September, 1598, describes his visit to the
" Theatres," as follows : " Without the city, are some theatres, where English
Actors represent almost every day Comedies and Tragedies to very numerous
audiences; these are concluded with variety of dances, accompanied by excellent
music and the excessive applause of those that are present. Nor far from one of
these Theatres [the Globe ?], which are all built of wood, lies the Royal Barge,
close to the river Thames ; it has two splendid cabins, beautifully ornamented
with glass windows, painting and carving ; it is kept upon dry ground, and shel-
tered from the weather. There is still another place, built in the form of a Theatre,
which serves for the baiting of bears and bulls : they are fastened behind, and then
worried by those great English dogs (quos lingua vernacula 'Docken ' appellant),
and mastiffs, but not without great risk to the dogs from the teeth of the one
and the horns of the other, and it sometimes happens they are killed on the spot:

2 1 6 Notes.

fresh ones are immediately supplied in the places of those that are wounded or
tired. To this entertainment there often follows that of whipping a blinded bear,
which is performed by five or six men, standing in a circle with whips, which
they exercise upon him without any mercy ; although he cannot escape from them
because of his chain, he nevertheless defends himself vigorously, throwing down
all who come within his reach and are not active enough to get out of it, tearing
the whips out of their hands and breaking them. At these spectacles, and every-
where else, the English are constantly smoking the Nicotian weed, which in
America is called Tobaca — others call it Patum — [i. e. Petun, the Brazilian name
for Tobacco, from which the allied beautiful plant ' Petunia ' derives its appella-
tion,] and generally in this manner : they have pipes on purpose made of clay,
into the farther end of which they put the herb, so dry that it may be rubbed
into powder, and lighting it, they draw the smoke into their mouths, which they
puff out again through their nostrils like funnels, along with it plenty of phlegm
and defluxion from the head. In these Theatres, fruits, such as apples, pears and
nuts, according to the season, are carried about to be sold, as well as wine and
ale." It appears from the Preface to William Fennor's "Descriptions," 1616,
that it was customary also to sell books at the Theatres before the play began.
He says, *• I suppose this Pamphlet [z. e. Poems] will hap into your hands before
a play begin, with the importunate clamour of Buy a new Booke, by some needy
companion."

The Prince of Anhalt, in 1596, thus mentions the Theatres in his Poetical
Itinerary : —

" Hier besieht man vier spielhauser,
Darinnen man fiirstelt die Fiirsten, Konge, Keyser,
In rechter lebens gross', in schoner Kleider pracht,
Es wird der thaten auch, wie sie geschehn, gedacht."

Here may you see playhouses four,
Where represented are, Prince, King, and Emperour
In real size of life, and beauteous clothes they wear;
Of many a wondrous deed you also there may hear.

It would appear, however, according to Mr. Collier, that there were more
than four theatres at this time in London ; but probably the German prince speaks
only of those on the Bankside. In the Privy Purse expenses of Prince Henry in
the Record Office {Bom. lvii.), under the dates of March 17 and April 13, 1610,
two sums of £6 and £2 were paid by the Prince's order to an " Italian Comedian."

Tom Coryat compares the theatres at Venice with our own theatres. He says
{Crudities, 161 1, p. 247), "I was at one of their Playhouses where I saw a
Comedie acted. The house is very beggarly and base in comparison of our
stately Play-houses in England ; neyther can their Actors compare with us for
apparrell, shewes and musicke. Here I observed certaine things that I never saw
before, for I saw women acte, a thing that I never saw before, though I have
heard that it hath beene sometimes used in London, and they performed it with

Notes. 2 1 7

as good a grace, action, gesture, and whatsoever convenient for a Player, as ever
I saw any masculine Actor."

Mr. Secretary Pepys, on January 3, 1661, saw the " Beggar's Bush " performed ;
" the first time," he says, " that ever I saw women come upon the stage."

In a book entitled " Ethographia mundi" (in German), Durch Johannem
Olorinum [i.e. Sommer] 1610-13, pars 4, the author alludes to the magnificence
of the dresses worn by English actors in the theatre : " Da miissen die Kragen mit
Perlen besetzet werden, und wird einsolcher Pracht gesehen, dass sie einhergehen,
wie die Englischen Comadienspieler in Theatro."

57. Page 46. Among the Addit. MSS. (12,506-7), are original letters by
Beauvoir La Node, the French Ambassador. One of these, addressed to Sir
Julius Caesar, is dated " De Hacquenay pres Londres, 25 Juillet, 1590." There
is likewise a letter by him dated Hackney, 27 September, 1591, printed in Rymer,
where the name is incorrectly spelt Beauvoir la Node. (See also Note 11.)

58. Page 46. Sir John and Sir Edward Norris, a brace of brave brothers,
were the sons of Henry Lord Norris, of Rycot in Oxfordshire, and were soldiers
of high reputation. "The Norrises," Fuller says, "were all * Martis pulli'
[chickens of Mars, like the Napiers], men of the sword, and never out of military
employment." Sir John, the eldest of six brothers, fought valiantly in the
Netherlands, Spain, Portugal, France and Ireland. In 159 1, he was General
of the English auxiliary forces sent into Brittany to succour Henry IV. of
France against his rebellious subjects. Sir John died suddenly in Ireland, in
1597. On hearing of the death of so "worthy a servant," Queen Elizabeth
wrote a letter of condolence to his mother, whom she called her " own crow,"
so nicknamed on account of her dark complexion, which the sons also inherited.
Sir Edward, the third son, distinguished himself at the taking of the Groyne
(Corunna, the inglorious so-called " Portugal Voyage" in 1589), as also at the
siege of Ostend, and died in 1606. The memorable military services of the
brothers Norris, particularly of Sir John, have been chronicled by the soldier-poet
Thomas Churchyard, in the work " A true Discourse historicall, of the suc-
ceeding Governours in the Netherlands," &c. 4to. Lond. 1602, in black letter.

59. Page 47. Byfleet, in Surrey, adjoins Walton-on-Thames. Aubrey says
Henry VIII. was nursed here. Sir Anthony Browne, Master of the Horse,
built a house here, called Byfiete House, where he died 6th May, 1548. James
I. settled it on his son, Prince Henry, and after his death on his Queen, Anne.
She began to build a new house, which was finished by Sir James Fullerton.
Tab. 14 of the beautiful MS. Survey of Windsor taken by Norden in 1607
(Had. MS. 3749, art. 14) contains " Biflete Parke in Surrey," to which he has
appended the following description : " Wherof parte lieth within, part without
the boundes of the Forest, all yet belonging to the Honor, wherof Sir Edward
Howard is chiefe keper. And hath about 160 fallow deere, about 36 of antler
and 14 buckes. This parke is in circuite 3^ mile, and so muche it paleth, few or
no timber trees to mayntaine the fence. It contayneth in quantitie about 380

F F

2 1 8 Notes.

acres meane grounde. The hooping birde, vulgarlie helde ominous, muche fre-
quenteth this parke." In an account of the expenses of James I. (Somen's
Tracts, ii. 391) is a payment to Sir Edward Howard above mentioned for keep-
ing Bifleet park and lodge, 8 d . by the day = £iz 3 s. \d. The Surrey historians
do not mention any residence possessed here by the Lord High Admiral Howard,
but as he was Constable of Windsor Castle, Keeper of the Forest and High Stew-
ard, he probably also held the keepership of the Park of Byfleet, and may have
had a lodge there by right of his office.

60. Page 48. At this time Stow (Annals, p. 765) records a most singular in-
stance of drought in the river Thames : " Wednesday, the sixth of September
[1592], the wind west and by south, as it had beene for the space of two days
before, very boysterous, the river of Thamis was so voyd of water, by forcing
out the fresh and keeping backe the sault, that men in divers places might goe 200
paces over, and then fling a stone to the land. A collier, on a mare, rode from
the north side to the south, and back againe, on etther'side of London Bridge, but
not without danger of drowninge both wayes." Dr. Dee in his Diary notes :
" Sept. 4th, 5th, 6th, very tempestuous, windy at West, Sowtherly. Sept. 5th,
the Terns very shallow at London." See the Introduction for particulars of the
storm which followed.

61. Page 48. A coloured view of Rochester is contained in William Smith's
interesting Manuscript, the " Description of England," 1588. Rochester is there
described as a " litle Cittie, but very ancient, as may appeare by the walles
thereof, which now in many places are gone to decay. Also the Castell, which
seemeth to be builded when the Tower of London was, and is lyke y e same
building. The cheiffest Church [the Cathedral] is called St. Andrewes. There
is a very ffayer Bridge of Stone, ffounded by S r . Rob'. Knolles, Knight, w th a
Chapell at y e est end therof, which Bridge is builded uppon pyles lyke as London
Bridge is, I meane in the selfsame maner. The River of Medway passeth under
the said Bridge. ... It is of such depth that all the Quenes Ma ,ies shippesdo ryde
there, at a low water, all along the river from Rochester to Upnor-Castell." The
"ffayer Bridge of Stone "above mentioned is now gone, but too prematurely, we
think, and the hideous Railway bridge adjoining the fine new iron one has
deprived all future Mr. Pickwicks from enjoying the charming prospect as
once seen on that side, Lambarde, in his " Perambulation of Kent" (the first
English county history ever published) edit. 1596, furnishes a list of forty-five
of the Queen's ships then lying at Chatham. He says, " No Towne, nor Citie
is there (I dare say), in this whole shire, comparable in right value with this one
Fleete ; nor shipping any where els in the whole world to be founde, either more
artificially moulded under the water, or more gorgeously decked above." Camden
extolled the dockyard at Chatham as the " best appointed arsenal the sun ever saw."
Fuller, speaking of the British Navy, remarks : " Indeed, much is in the matter—
the excellency of our English oak ; more in the making— the cunning of our ship-
wrights; most jn the manning— the courage of our seamen." On the occasion of

Notes. 2 1 9

the Congress of the Arcfueological Institute held at Rochester in July and August,
1863, the editor contributed a paper on " Visits to Rochester and Chatham by
royal, noble, and distinguished personages, English and foreign, from 1300 to
1783." It has since been printed in vol. vi. of the " Archsologia Cantiana."

62. Page 49. The ship in which Drake sailed round the world (the Golden
Hind), when it became unfit for service, was laid up near the " Mast Dock" at
Deptford, where it remained for a long series of years an object of curiosity and
wonder. Hentzner, in 1598, says he saw here the ship of that noble Pirate,
Francis Drake. From a passage in one of Ben Jonson's plays, it appears to have
become a resort for holiday people, the cabin being then converted into a ban-
queting house. "Drake's ship at Detford" is spoken of as one of the " sights"
in some verses prefixed to the redoubtable Tom Coryat's "Crudities," 161 1.
(See ante, p. 140.) When the young Duke of Saxe Weimar saw the ship in 1613,
but very little remained of it. It was then described as lying by the river-side
in shallow water, in a dock {in einem Loch) ; the lower part only {corpus) was
left, the upper part being all gone, for almost everybody who went there, and
especially sailors, were in the habit of carrying off some portion of it. (Neumayr
von Ramssla, " Des Fiirsten Joh. Ernsten, &c. Reise," 1 6zo.) Philipott, " Hist,
of Kent," 1659, says that in a very short time nothing was left of her. And in
Moryson's "Itinerary," 161 7 (Pt. iii. p. 138), it is noticed as follows: "Notfarre
from hence [Deptford] upon the shore, lie the broken ribs of the ship in which
Sir Francis Drake sailed round about the world, reserved for a monument of that
great action." A chair, made out of the wood, is to be seen in the gallery of the
Bodleian Library at Oxford.

63. Page 49. We do not hesitate to fix this "unsafe" spot at the famed
"high old robbing hill" called Gad's Hill, a short distance from Rochester, on
the road towards Gravesend. Like Shooter's Hill, it appears to have been a place
notorious for robberies during the reign of Elizabeth, and even before the time
of Shakespeare. In Warton's " History of English Poetry," iii. 322, ed. 1840,
mention is made of a ballad, entitled "The Robery at Gads Hill," in 1558.
One of the Lansdowne MSS. presents us with a curious narrative in the hand-
writing of Sir Roger Manwood, Chief Baron of the Exchequer, dated July, 1 590,
which shows that Gad's Hill was at that period the resort of a band of desperadoes
of more than usual daring. Gad, in the cant language of the day, signified a rogue
or vagabond, as well as the formidable clubs with which they armed themselves.
Clavell, a penitent robber, of a poetic turn as well, in the opening lines of his
"Recantation" (1628), confesses to have commenced his nefarious operations on

"Gadd's Hill, and those
Red tops of mountaines where good people lose
Their ill-kept purses."

Gad's Hill is frequently alluded to by our dramatists of the seventeenth century.

220 Notes.

It is also mentioned in the curious and rare 4to. by I. M. entitled " A Health to the
Gentlemanly Profession of Servingmen," i 598, (Sig. I 3 verso) :■—" What shall
he then do i Shall he make his appearance at Gaddes hill, Shooters hill, Salis-
burie playne, or Newmarket heath, to sit in Commission, and examine passen-
gers?" In 1 66 1, Gad's Hill was the scene of an atrocious murder committed on
a Transylvanian Prince, named Cossuma Albertus. He was buried with great
solemnity in Rochester Cathedral. This very spot, " Gad's Hill," — hallowed as
it is by the inimitable scenes pourtrayed by England's greatest dramatic poet,
affording " argument for a week, laughter for a month, and a good jest for ever,"
yet no longer subjected to the untimely visits of "gentlemen of the shade," and
" minions of the moon," — has been chosen by the greatest of England's living
novelists as his summer home. The traveller will have to seek for the charming
rural dwelling of Charles Dickens at a few paces from the well-known Falstaff
Inn, on the brow of the hill, embowered in foliage and conspicuous by some dark-
spreading cedars. The prospect it commands is of great beauty, while not far
distant stands in all its grandeur the glorious old Castle of Rochester, which, and
the surrounding scenery, Mr. Dickens in one of his earliest works, and perhaps
his best, has, in the company of Mr. Pickwick, described so eloquently and so
truthfully.

64. Page 50. A storm in England by express command of a witch ! The
popular belief in witchcraft was at this time rampant. Reginald Scot attempted
to check it in a publication of 5 60 pages, entitled " The Discoverie of Witchcraft,"
1584. In the thirteenth chapter, being "A confutation of witches confessions,
concerning making of tempests and raine," he remarks : " I saie, that there is
none which acknowledgeth God to be onlie omnipotent . . . but will denie that
the elements are obedient to witches, and at their commandement ; or that they
may at their pleasure send raine, haile, tempests, thunder, lightening." And in
the first chapter he says : "Such faithlesse people are also persuaded, that neither
haile nor snowe, thunder nor lightening, raine nor tempestuous winds come from
the heauens at the commandement of God, but are raised by the cunning and
power of witches and conjurers; inasmuch as a clap of thunder, or a gale of wind
is no sooner heard, but either they run to ring bels, or crie out to burne witches,
or else burne consecrated things, hoping by the smoke thereof to driue the diuell
out of the aire," &c. On the other hand, the royal author of the " Daemono-

1- »»
ogie —

" A gentleman called King James,

In quilted doublet and great trunk breeches,

Who held in abhorrence tobacco and witches" —

was of opinion, in 1597, that witches " can rayse stormes and tempestes in the
aire, either upon sea or land, though not universally, but in such a particular
place and prescribed boundes, as God will permitte them so to trouble." The
Lapland witches, according to some, sold wind to sailors, and delighted in raising
storms and tempests, which they effected by repeating certain charms, and throw

Notes. 221

ing up sand in the air. Abundant illustration will be found in Brand's " Popular
Antiquities."

65. Page 51. One principal reason of the number of rabbit warrens formerly
was the great use our ancestors made of fur in their clothing. "I judge warrens
of coneys," says Harrison, 1586, " to be almost innumerable, and daily like to
encrease, by reason that the black skins of those beasts are thought to countervail
the prices of their naked carcasses." The latter were worth (17 Hen. VIII.) z-^d.
a piece, and the former 6d. Moryson (Itin. 1617, Pt. iii. p. 149), touching
on the diet of our ancestors, says : " The English have great plenty of connies,
the flesh wherof is fat, tender, and much more delicate than any I have eaten in
other parts, so as they are in England preferred before hares, at which the Ger-
mans wonder, who having no venison (the princes keeping it proper to them-
selves, and the hunting of hares being proper to the gentlemen in most parts), they
esteem hares as venison, and seldom eate connies, being there somewhat rare, and
more like rosted cats then the English connies."

66. Page 51. In a black-letter Proclamation of 4th Elizabeth, it is ordered that
" None shall carry or convey out of the realme any horse or any mare, the price of
which mare shall be above vis. v'nid. and under the age of three yeres, without
licence : upon payne of forfeyture of the same horse or mare. Neverthelesse, every
subject of thys realme may carry any such horse for theyr owne use, takyng an
othe before the Customer of the Porte where he embarketh, that he intendeth not
to sell the same horse." The whole of this proclamation is curious, and evinces
a strong desire to encourage and improve the breed of English horses.

67. Page 52. Moryson (Itin. 1617, Pt. iii. p. 150) says: " The oysters of
England were of old carried as farre as Rome, being more plentifull and savorie
then in any other part." Hentzner, in 1598, visited Queenborough (£>uinck-
burg.) " A little farther on," he says, " we saw the fishing of oysters out of the
sea, which are no where in greater plenty or perfection." There is classical
authority for the excellence of the English oysters. (See Juvenal, iv. 141.)

68. Page 57. Sir William Browne was at this time Lieutenant-Governor of
Flushing under Sir Robert Sidney, to which post he had been appointed in 1596.
He was a brave soldier, and had served in the wars of the Low Countries with
the gallant Sir Philip Sidney, who esteemed him highly. The valiant brothers,
Sir Francis and Sir Horace Vere, who had probably been trained to the military
profession under his care, always styled him " Father." He was knighted in
1605. His Letters and Despatches are printed in Collins's " Sydney Letters."
One of these (ii. 266), giving a description of the ceremony of proclaiming King
James at Flushing, on March 29, 1603, contains a droll conclusion, as well as a
honest confession — " We were drunke all, in drinking the health of our King."
He refers, in a letter dated Flushing, 8th April, 1610; (Collins, ii. 320) to this
embassy of the Duke of Wirtemberg : " The Duke of Wirtenberg, who is to
come into England on the behalf of the German Princes allyed, is on his way
between this and Roterdam." Tom Coryat, in his " Crudities," 161 1, p. 652,

222

Notes.

describes Vlyshingen, or Flushing, which he says is built in the form of a pitcher,
and guarded with a garrison of English soldiers. He tells us he received a " very
speciall courtesie" of Sir William Browne. Flushing had been, with the Brill, held
and garrisoned by the English from the reign of Elizabeth, as " cautionary towns j"
the Queen having greatly assisted, and lent considerable sums of money to, the
States of Holland. They were redeemed in the following reign. Howell, in
a letter written in 1619, describes the manner of their surrender by James I.;
the cash, he tells us, "came in convenient time, for it served to defray the
expencefull progresse he made to Scotland the summer following." (Epist.
Ho-Eliana, 1650, p. 19.)

69. Page 58. Robert Bertie, Lord Willoughby, Lord High Chamberlain,
created, in 1626, Earl of Lindsey ; Lord High Admiral in 1636; and appointed
General of the King's Forces, June 1642. He was mortally wounded at Edge
Hill, Oct. 23, and died the same night, a prisoner in Warwick Castle.

70. Page 58. Elizabeth, eldest daughter of James I, was born 1596, and died
in 1 66 1 . We have, at page 118, been introduced to the English princess, when she
was eight years old. At the age of seventeen, and within little more than three
months after the lamented death of her brother Henry, she was married to Frederick,
Elector Palatine, 14 February, 1613. The prince, shortly before he set out on
his journey to England, feeling himself somewhat out of practice in his dancing,
forwarded a request to the Duke John Frederick of Wirtemberg, to procure for
him the professional services of the Tubingen dancing-master for one month, in
order that he might appear at the English Court a proficient in all kinds of exer-
cises. {Letter in German, July iz, 16 12, in Royal Library at Stuttgart; Cooper's
Appendix, A.) Unfortunately for the happiness of himself and family,Frederick
was prevailed upon in 1 6 19 to accept from the revolted subjects of the Emperor
Ferdinand II. the crown of Bohemia. But, " uneasy lies the head that wears a
crown ;" this indeed proved a fatal gift to Frederick, whose royalty was but
ephemeral, for he was driven out of Prague, Nov. 1620, by the imperial army,
and deprived of his- dominions and electoral dignity. Lord Herbert of Cherbury,
in his " Autobiography," mentions his kind reception by the Prince and Princess
Palatine, at their castle of Heidelberg, and also speaks of his viewing the " fair
library" there. An interesting literary relic from this library is now in the British
Museum. It is a copy of Sir Walter Raleigh's " History of the World," printed
1614, in folio. From a series of Latin manuscript notes on the title-page and fol-
lowing leaf, it appears that this volume once belonged to the Princess Elizabeth,
and was left behind her at Prague, on her flight from that city in Nov. 1620, when
it fell into the hands of a Spaniard named Verdugo. At the recapture of Prague
by the Swedes, in 1648, the book was recovered by a German of the name of Klee,
who restored it to John Philip Frederick, son of the princess. Good portraits of
the Queen of Bohemia are at Hampton Court. An interesting large historical
painting, by Adam Willaerts, is in the royal collection. It represents the
embarkation of the Prince and Princess Palatine at Margate, on their homeward

Notes. 223

journey on the 21st of April, 1613. The picture was purchased by her Majesty
in 1858, having been acquired in Holland. In the centre appears conspicuously
the ship Prince Royal, which was built and at that time commanded by Phineas
Pett, on this her first voyage. Lord Howard of Effingham, then Earl of Not-
tingham, one of the heroes of the Armada, was the admiral of the squadron
appointed to convey the English princess to her adopted country. At Althorp is
a large painting, by ' Velvet' Breughel, representing Elizabeth, with her husband
and son, Sir Dudley Carleton, Maurice Prince of Orange, Prince Frederick
Henry, and many others of the Court at the Hague, going out to hunt. Some
interesting juvenile autograph letters by the princess are in the MS. department,
British Museum. Many of her letters are printed in Evelyn's Memoirs {Appendix),
and also in the " Archasologia," (vol. 37 and 39). She was the mother of the
Princes Rupert and Maurice, both of whom fought bravely on the royalist side
in the Civil Wars. From the Princess Sophia, her twelfth child (married to
Ernest Augustus, Elector of Hanover), Queen Victoria is descended and derives
her title to the throne.

71. Page 58. Arabella Stuart was usually called by her contemporaries,
Madame Arbella and the Lady Arbella. The story of the loves and misfortunes
of this accomplished woman, whose greatest crime appears to have consisted in
her endeavour to get married, forms one of the most entertaining of D'Israeli's
" Curiosities of Literature." In her case, most emphatically, the course of true
love never did run smooth. Correr, the Venetian Ambassador in London, about
1608 or 1609, penned the following sketch of her, under the misnomer of
Madame Isabelle: —

" The person nearest in blood to His Majesty after his children is Madame
Isabelle,, who is descended, like the King, from Margaret the daughter of
Henry VII, being born of a natural brother of his Majesty's father, whereby she
is cousin to him. She is 28 years of age, is not particularly handsome, but in
recompense she is adorned with a thousand lovely virtues ; for besides that she
is noble both in her actions and her manners, she possesses several languages in
perfection, viz. Latin, Italian, French, and Spanish; she understands Greek and
Hebrew, and is constantly studying. She is not very rich ; for the late Queen,
being jealous of every body, and especially of those who had some pretension to
the crown, under divers pretexts deprived her of the greatest part of her revenues;
hence the poor Lady cannot live in splendour, and has not the means of doing
good to those who serve her, as she would wish. The King makes a show of
affection and esteem by allowing her to live at court, which the deceased Queen
would never permit her to do. The King had promised to restore her property,
and to procure a husband for her; she is nevertheless still kept from both the
one and the other." {Relation d'Angleterre, p. 82.)

At the time of the visit of the Prince of Wirtemberg, Arabella was privately
married to Mr. Seymour, afterwards Marquis of Hertford and Duke of Somerset,
whom she had known from childhood ; but on this being discovered, in July,

224 Notes.

1610, they were separately imprisoned. The romantic particulars of her escape
and speedy capture by order of the heartless monarch, are well known. When,
in 161 3, the young Prince of Saxe Weimar went over the Tower of London, he
found the unhappy lady immured there, and there she dragged out the brief
remnant of a life of misery, which terminated in a state of lunacy. A homely
doggrel verse of a black-letter ballad in the Roxburghe collection, makes Arabella
say : —

" I would I had a milk-maid been,

Or born of some more low degree,
Then I might have loved where I like,

And no man could have hindred me."

Her letters, beautiful in penmanship and touching in expression, many of which
were written in the time of her troubles, are preserved in the British Museum.
Several miniatures of her, all attributed to the masterly hand of Nicholas Hilliard,
were exhibited at the Loan Collection in South Kensington Museum in 1862.

72. Page 58. Frederick Ulric was the son of Henry Julius, Duke of Bruns-
wick, and was cousin to Prince Henry, to whom he was then on a visit.
Mr. Beaulieu in a letter, 29th of March, 1610 (Winwood, iii. 145), writes:
" Here is expected this day the young Prince of Brunswick, who shall be lodged
with the Prince at St. James's. The speech is that he cometh for a marriage
with the Lady Elizabeth, and that he will stay some months in these parts." The
French Ambassador, La Boderie, communicates similar news to Villeroy.on May 1,
but adds, with reference to the ' design of marriage,' that the Prince of Brunswick,
' soit de mauvoise grace.' (Ambassades, v. 221.) The two young Princes were
much attached to each other, and several of their letters are preserved in the Har-
leian MS. 7007. The German Prince travelled in many parts of England, some-
times in company with Prince Henry ; one place visited by the former was Ox-
ford, although Nichols (Progresses of J times I.) states that he could find no record
of his reception here ; but a proof sufficient is contained in the existence of a 4to.
volume of congratulatory verses, composed by the Oxonians on this occasion.
This volume, formerly in King James's library, is now in the British Museum ;
it is entitled, " Muss hospitales Wicchamicae in adventum illustrissimi Principis
Frederici-Ulrici primogeniti Henrici Julii, serenissimi Ducis Brunsvicensis et
Luneburgensis. Exhibitse Oxonise in Collegio Novo, die 6 Mensis Maii, anno
dom. 1610." On May 17th a warrant was issued to pay to Sir David Murray,
Gentleman of the Bedchamber to the Prince [Henry], £1000 for extraordinary
expenses incurred by the abode of the young Duke of Brunswick with the Prince.
Cal. of State Papers!) In the Book of Privy Purse Expenses of Prince Henry
kept by Sir David Murray {Rec. Off. Dom. lvii.) is an entry under date of July
18, 1610, " To Isaac [Oliver] for a picture of his highnes made to the Duke of
Brunswick, £8 ;" and a further sum of £3 was paid, " for another picture of his
highnes made in paper." Towards the end of June appears a record (Devon's
Issues of the Exchequer) of a sum of £1900 paid by the King to Peter Vanlore,

Notes. 225

for a jewel given by his Majesty to the Duke of Brunswick, and also for a ring
presented to the said duke by the Lady Elizabeth. A suit of gilt armour which
Prince Henry had ordered to be made, as a present to his cousin the Duke of
Brunswick, was sent soon after the Prince's death, in 1612, by the hands of a
special messenger, the payments to whom, and for which armour " fairly gilt and
graven" (costing £340) occur in Devon's Issues, pp. 160, 173.

In a Poem by William Fennor (Descriptions, &c. 1616) we are told that the

" Yong Prince of Brundswicke craves the second place,
whose virtues with him brings a noble spirit :
Hee's milde and courteous, mixt with maiesticke grace,

his praise is not so much as he doth merit :
A Prince, a Schollar, and a Travailer,
a peacefull youth and yet a souldier."

Frederick Ulric was a weak prince, of a pacific disposition, and altogether unsuited
to the stirring and troublous period of the thirty years' war, into the vortex of
which, however, he was unwillingly drawn. He died in 1634, from the effects
of a fall from his horse, at the age of 43. His younger brother, Christian,
Duke of Brunswick, and Protestant Bishop of Halberstadt, engaged with ardour
in .the cause of Frederick V, King of Bohemia, who had married the very Lady
Elizabeth whom, it had been supposed his brother had courted. Christian came
to England in December, 1624, and in the following January received the Order
of the Garter. He was lodged and well entertained by Prince Charles, received
from him a gift of £3000, and had a pension assigned to him of £zooo a year.
(Cal. of State Papers.) This Duke of Brunswick has been mistaken by Nichols
and Devon for his brother, Frederick Ulric. A letter by Chamberlain affords us
an amusing anecdote respecting this visit. He writes on January 8, 1625:
"The Duchess of Richmond admitted him [at Ely House] with the proviso that
he must not offer to kiss her : but what was wanting in herself, was supplied in
her attendants and followers, who were all kissed over twice in less than a quarter
of an hour." This excessive kissing-custom, it would seem, was nothing unusual
in this or in previous reigns. For other examples, see p. 90, and Note 1 17.

73. Page 58. Antoine Le Fevre de la Boderie was, in April, 1606, appointed
by Henry IV. his Ambassador in England. He remained here until 161 1,
excepting only a short interval in 1609, when he returned to France, on which
occasion James I. presented him with a basin and ewer of gold, for which John
Williams was paid a nice little sum of £762 2s. 6d, (Cal. of State Papers.) La
Boderie was a busy correspondent, and has left five volumes of " Ambassades en
Angleterre," printed at Paris, 1750, i2mo., which give no very favourable picture
of King James or of his Court. Sir Thomas Edmondes speaks of him as " a very
honest gentleman." He was of the reformed religion, and died in 1615.

74. Page 59. Marc' Antonio Cornao, called also Cornaro, but more fre-
quently Correr or Correro, was the Venetian resident " ordinary" or " lieger"

G G

226 Notes.

Ambassador in England. Sir Henry Wotton wrote a letter from Venice, August 1 6,
1608, recommending to Prince Henry this gentleman, and his son a youth of
" so sweet a spirit." The present ambassador, he remarks, " is the third since the
renewed friendship between Great Britain and the Republic, in the royal person
of our good King" [James]. He proceeds to give a favourable character of Correr
(Birch's Prince Henry, 1 1 5), who returned to Venice in 161 1, in which year he
presented his relation of England to the Senate. Mr. Holmes in his list of Venetian
Ambassadors {Camden Society) states that there is no relation existing of the English
Embassy of Antonio Correro, but this is the same individual as Marco Antonio;
and in 1668, there was published a small volume at Montbeliard (our old friend
"Mompelgard" — See the Introduction), entitled "Relation d'Angleterre. Par
Marc-Anton Correr." This work, which is very rare, and hitherto unused, it is
believed, by English writers, in illustration of the reign of James I, is a translation
from the Italian MS. descriptive of the country to which the author was accredited.
A copy of the printed book is in the British Museum. Translations of portions
will be found in our Notes. According to Mr. Rawdon Brown's valuable
Calendar of Venetian State Papers, Correr was in London again on a diplomatic
mission in July, 1626. His despatches written from this country are at Venice,
and most probably his original Relation of England.

75. Page 59. Jehan Berck, Pensionary of Dort, had been employed on a
mission to this country two years before. He was now accompanied by Albert
Verius (or de Veer), Pensionary of Amsterdam ; Helias van Oldenbarnevelt, Pen-
sionary of Rotterdam, brother of the great statesman John, who was beheaded ;
and Albert Joachimi, Deputy of Zealand, an " honest and sufficient man" (Win-
wood ; but there misspelt "Jouching"). Van Meteren {Nederl. Historic) speaks
at length of their proceedings in England ; the main object of their visit being to
thank King James for favours conferred, and to ascertain what assistance he would
render in the contest about the States of Cleves and Juliers. Other propositions
were made, which are detailed in a letter of Cecil, Earl of Salisbury, to Winwood,
on May 14, 1610 {Winwood, iii. p. 161). But very little was effected owing to
the disastrous news of the French King's deaths and to the absence of the English
King from London, whereat, it is said, " the ambassadors felt themselves much
neglected and aggrieved." James, who was at that time in the country, enjoying
the pleasures of hunting, hawking and fishing, on his part uttered his discontent
against the States, " in that they had sent men of such quality to the King of
France, and served him with mean Pensioners of Townes." (Letter of Beaulieu,
May 2, in Winwood.) Cecil, in the letter above mentioned, is anxious to explain
to Winwood, the English Ambassador at the Hague, that the Dutch Pensionaries
had been treated here with great respect. " First," he says, " for their reception,
that their own purpose to come in their ships up to London, and their refusing
to go on land at Gravesend, hath prevented us that they were not brought into
the city with such lustre as is reported their colleagues were at Paris. Yet we did
what we could to send barges to meet them by the way (as they did), and coaches

Notes. 227

to bring them to their lodgings ; wherein we hope they have had no cause of
mislike. At their access to his Majesty, they received all the honour that is
here usually done to the ambassadors of the greatest monarchs." In Van
Meteren, every event in connection with this journey is related couleur de rose.
The Deputies were conducted everywhere to view the rarities of England ; they
were even feasted on St. George's Day. On the 24th [14th O. S.] May, the
King entertained them at his own table very magnificently, when the assassination
of the French monarch formed the chief topic of conversation. After the repast,
the four Ambassadors were knighted in the presence of many lords and gentle-
men. (See also Rymer's Fcedera.) After taking leave of his Majesty and of
the Queen, Princess Elizabeth, and Prince Henry, they went to visit the young
Duke of York (Charles I, at this time nine years old), who was ill with the
measles (sieck vande maseleri). On May 28th [18th O. S.], they took their
departure, carrying with them handsome presents. Mention is also made by Van
Meteren of the Duke Lewis Frederick of Wirtemberg and his assistants, and of
the young Duke of Brunswick. Of Sir Noel Caron we shall speak hereafter.

76. Page 59. Correr, the Venetian Ambassador in London (1 608-1 1), in his
" Relation d'Angleterre," p. 80, speaks in the following terms of that idol of the
nation, Prince Henry, at whose death, in 1612, says Bishop Hacket (Life of Lord
Keeper Williams, p. 27), "so much light was extinguished, that a thick dark-
ness, next to that of hell, is upon our land at this day" [i.e. circa 1650].

" The King's eldest son named Henry is a prince very intelligent (fort spirituel),
very generous and of very great hopes ; all his actions are accompanied by a sur-
prising gravity beyond his age; he applies himself to study although it is dis-
pleasing to him, but this he does rather to please his father than from his own
inclination, on which account his Majesty frequently reproves him. One day
the King, after having remonstrated with him at length on this subject, said to
him, that if he did not attend more seriously to his studies, he would give the
kingdom to his brother Charles, because he learnt thoroughly well, and studied
with intelligence and attention. The Prince did not reply, out of respect to his
father, but going into his chamber, and his tutor continuing to speak to him on
the subject, he answered, ' I know what becomes a great prince, and it is not
necessary that I should be a doctor but rather a soldier, and well acquainted with
the affairs of the world. If my brother is as learned as it is said, he should be
made Archbishop of Canterbury.' (Compare also Lilly's Life of Charles I, 1651,
p. 75.) This answer having been communicated to the King his father, did not
quite please him, for as his Majesty was persuaded that the Prince was very much
beloved, that he gave good earnest concerning his person, and that his subjects
had already placed all their hopes in him, the King began to show signs of jea-
lousy of him ; for this reason this young Prince has need of having about him a
person of judgment and of good counsel."

From an interesting Biography " The true Picture and Relation of Prince
Henry," written by " W. H., one of the late Prince's servants " (probably William

228 Notes.

Haydone, his Groom of the Bedchamber, see Birch, p. 45 1), and dedicated to the
Prince's sister Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia and Princess Palatine {Leyden, 1634,
4to.) it is said (p. 9) that Henry " was exceeding magnifick and stately in all his
doings, and principally in feasting of great persones; such as was the young Duke
of Brounswick, the young Landgrave of Hesse (see ante, p. 143)) the Duke of
Wirtemberg (see pp. 55, &c), and others, which he feasted most royally, giving
them all maner of contentment, that they could have desired of him." And again,
at p. 27, the author writes : " He tooke great delight in ryding of great horses,
and laboured to have of the best and rarest horses that were to be found, and had
such care of them that he went often to the stables to see them, and accounted
them to be a part of his best jewels, as on a time he declared evidently. For
having sent one of the best that he had, and which he loved dearly (named Pied-
Admirall) to the Duke of Brounswick, his cousin, who had been farre in love with
him during the time that he sejourned in England, and one of his servants who
had gone over with the horse to the Duke having brought backe from him to his
Highnes for a token a certaine booke full of pictures of horses, with such furni-
ture as belonged to them ; after that he had somewhat slightly, and as it were in
disdaine turned over some of the leaves thereof, he uttered this speech before the
said servant and all that stood by : ' I would rather have my Pied-Admirall
againe alive, than all these painted beasts.'" Many of Prince Henry's books,
including those on horsemanship, having his arms and mottos stamped on the
original handsome bindings, are in the British Museum.

77. Page 60. The following sketch of James I. is translated from the " Rela-
tion d'Angleterre" of Correr, the Venetian Ambassador in London from 1608-1 1.
" He who now reigns is James, Sixth King of Scotland, and First of England,
born June 19, 1563 [1566], and who is now 43 years old. He is of moderate
height, of a very good complexion, of an agreeable presence, and of a very robust
constitution, which he endeavours to preserve in its vigour. He ardently loves
hunting, and makes use of it not only for his diversion, but also for his health; so
thoroughly does he devote himself to it, that he has abandoned and thrown under
foot all other business, which he has resigned to his Council and Ministers, so that
one may truly say that he is merely a Prince by name, and rather in appearance
than in fact. This proceeds purely from inclination, seeing that he can, and knows
how to, exercise the art of reigning, and that he is endowed with an excellent
understanding and extraordinary learning, having earnestly applied himself to
study during his youth, but now he has entirely abandoned it. He professes the
Protestant religion, which is thus called because it is to speak correctly a mixture
of various religions as to doctrine, but not in what relates to government and
policy, Calvin denying not only the spiritual powers, but also the temporal, which
all Princes hold in horror." (P. 57.)

" He is a great enemy to our religion, not only because he believes it to be full
of abuses and artifice, but especially for that unjust, impious, and inhuman doc-
trine, which we have before noticed, which obliges him to speak very badly of it,

Notes. 229

and in very scornful and altogether injurious terms ; and he holds it all the more
in horror, because in this last conspiracy against his person and entire kingdom,
he discovered the most horrible, the most cruel and the most barbarous attempt
which had ever been made ; for as he himself told me, ' one has seen many times
Princes assassinated — one has seen attempts made to annihilate a whole house and
posterity ; but to wish to extinguish with the person of the King all his posterity,
and to ruin a whole kingdom — this was quite unexampled ;' for if this enterprise
had succeeded, it is certain that not only the King, the Queen and their children
would have been killed, but also all the clergy, judges, most of the citizens, and
more than 30,000 would have perished ; and after that the people being left
without a ruler, would have been free to commit all the evil they could have
desired, to the total ruin of the kingdom. And what is more, he pretends that
the Jesuits have been participators in this frightful treason ; it is this that un-
doubtedly will render this prince more cruel towards our true religion — for in
other respects, his Majesty is naturally very gentle, an enemy to cruelty, a lover
of justice, and full of good will. He is accustomed to go to prayer and to sermon
every Sunday, and every Tuesday, holding in much devotion this day on which
he was delivered from a conspiracy formed by certain Scottish earls to kill him in
Scotland in 1660 [1600, see Note 93, 'Gowry Conspiracy']. It is for this
reason he goes every Tuesday to church, in order to render thanks to God, who
preserved him from those assassins. He loves tranquillity, peace, and repose ; he
has no inclination for war ; on the contrary, it is not in the least conformable to
his nature — it is this that displeases many of his subjects. And what they find
still worse is, that the King having entirely abandoned the government of his
kingdoms, leaves all care of them to his Council, and thinks of nothing else than
to take his pleasure in hunting. He does not make much of (il ne fait point de
caresses) his subjects, and does not receive them with the same cordiality (bonnes-
cheres) by which Queen Elizabeth used to gain the hearts of this people, who love
their prince so much, that if he passed a hundred times a day through a street,
they would always run to see him, feeling pleased that royalty should be gratified
with this mark of affection. Queen Elizabeth used to observe this custom parti-
cularly, but the King on the contrary disdains it. Thus while the Queen acquired
the intense love of the people, the present King is hated and despised by them, his
Majesty's humour being rather to live privately among eight or ten of his own set
(des siens) than magnificently and in public, as is the custom of the country and
the wish of the people." (Pp. 75-78.)

" He hates and has an intense horror of the Pope, calling him a ' Monster of
Nature,' and when he expatiates on this topic, he says horrible things of him,
which, to tell the truth, offend the ears of those who hear them." (P. 90.)

"The Councillors of the King are 25 in number; if you want anything done,
you must make large presents, for it is customary in this country that the more any
one receives, the more he is esteemed and honoured ; and this abuse is carried to
such an extent, that they take not only from their subjects, but even from foreigners

230 Notes.

and ministers of Princes. The authority of these being so great, other noble and
ancient families suffering by the comparison, so thoroughly hate the power of these
counsellors, that they declare them to be petty kings and tyrants." (Pp. 84, 86.)
Among the old Royal MSS. in the British Museum is the original of the Basi-
likon Doron, written by James when King of Scotland, for the instruction of his
son Prince Henry. The binding is of crimson velvet, with gold clasps and
corner pieces, having the King's initials on both covers, and on the lower cover
the arms of Scotland, also in gold. Besides this volume there are two others
in his hand throughout; one a Paraphrase of the Revelation {Old Royal MS.
18 B. xiv.) dedicated " To the quhole christiane kirke militant in quhat sumeuir
pairte of the earth;" the other being a metrical version of the Psalms {Old
Royal MS. 18 B. xvi.) Subjoined is his version of the Lord's Prayer, which
certainly is not very elegant, but is a good example of what the British Solomon
thought worthy of himself: —

" O michtie father that inheauin remainis

Thy noble name be sanctifeit aluayes

thy Kingdome come, in earth thy uill & rainis

euen as in heauinnis mot be obeyed uith prayse

& giue us lorde oure dayly bread & foode

forgiuing us all oure trespassis aye

as ue forgiue ilk other in lyke moode

lorde in temptation lead us not ue praye

but us from euill deliuer euer moire

for thyne is Kingdome ue do all record

allmichtie pouer & euerlasting gloire

for nou & ay, so mot it be 6 lorde."

The Museum likewise possesses some of James's correspondence with " Steenie"
(the Duke of Buckingham), familiarized to us by Sir Walter Scott in the " Fortunes
of Nigel."

78. Page 60. Mr. Beaulieu writes from London on April 26 : " His Majesty
departed hence yesterday towards Newmarket" — {Winwood.) Mr. Chamberlain
dates from London on May 2 : " Our St. George's Feast passed without making
any new Knights. The next day [Apr. 24] the King went towards Thetford,
where he now remains." Thetford is 80 miles distant from London.

79. Page 60. Sir Noel Caron was an eminent and able diplomatist, who
represented the States of the Netherlands in this country during the long period
of thirty-four years, in the reigns of Elizabeth and James I. He erected a hand-
some house at South Lambeth, where he had a large park for deer, which extended
to Vauxhall and Kennington. At this house, on whose portal were inscribed the
words " Omne Solum Forti Patria," he entertained Queen Elizabeth, in July 1 599,
when she was on her way to Lord Burghley's seat at Wimbledon. In October
following, the Queen presented Monsieur Caron, " Agent for Flaunders," with

Notes.

231

ten chains of gold, weighing together more than sixty-eight ounces. In 1607 he
obtained a lease for twenty-one years of the Prince of Wales's manor of Kennington,
with all the houses, buildings, &c. containing 122 acres, at an annual rent of
£16 \os. gd. In the Privy Purse Expenses of Prince Henry {Record Off.
Dom. Ivii) are several payments made in 16 10 to "Sir Noel Carones man," for
fruit brought to the Prince; and one entry shews a sum of£i to have been
given for a " picture to his Highnes." Caron House (of which there is a cut
in Allen's "History of Lambeth," 1827, taken from an old plan, and now
re-copied), with its gardens and orchards, was granted
to Lord Chancellor Clarendon, by Charles II, in
1666, and in the year following was made over by the
Chancellor to Sir Jeremy Whichcott, in considera-
tion of the sum of £2000. Hither the Fleet pri-
soners were removed after the Great Fire. The house
was on the site of Messrs. Beaufoy's distillery. Allen
states that part of the old building was standing only
a few years before, as " Caron House Seminary," but in 1 809 the principal
portion was demolished ; and that -a considerable remnant of the walls surrounding
the park existed when he wrote (1827), particularly one place across Kennington
Oval. According to Nichols, however, the house was pulled down in 1687, and
a moderate sized one built on its site, which was taken down in 1810. Sir Noel
was a very worthy and charitable man ; in 1607 he gave £10 towards the repairs
of Lambeth church, and £50 to the poor. In 1615 he founded almshouses at
Vauxhall for seven poor women, granting an annual pension to each of £4.
Howell, in his Letters, calls him " Lord Caroon" and doubtless the name was
commonly so pronounced. His autograph letters are dated " De Suydt Lambeth."
He died in December, 1624. (Van der Aa, Biog. Woord. der Nederl.) His
helmet, coat of mail, gauntlet and spurs, together with his arms, were placed in
Lambeth church, and when Nichols wrote, were in good preservation. In the
reign of James I, the " Keeper of the Game" about Lambeth and Clapham was
allowed one penny a day, and £1 6s. id. per annum for his livery. (Expenses
of James I. in Somen' Tracts, ii. 392.) The name of Sir Noel Caron does not
appear either in the " Biographie Universelle," or in the " Nouvelle Biographie
Generate, published by MM. Didot."

80. Page 60. The Ferry at Lambeth was a Horseferry between Lambeth Palace
and Millbank. The memory of it is retained in the name " Horseferry Road," in
Westminster. The following is extracted from an interesting paper on [old] West-
minster Bridge, in the " Penny Magazine," 1842, p. 150 : — " Those who may
have occasion to cross the river by a wherry from the stairs at the foot of the fine
old gateway of Lambeth Palace to Millbank on the opposite side, are landed on a
shelving .slope, directly opposite the end of Market Street, and a little southward
of the church of St. John the Evangelist. At the top of the slope stands a little
wooden house ; that is the old ferry-house, and the place is that of the old Horse-

232 Notes.

ferry. Directly opposite, some hundred yards or so from Lambeth Palace, is an
opening to an obscure street, still known as Ferry Street, and one, perhaps both,
of the houses which then formed considerable inns still stand there — where tra-
vellers were accustomed to wait for the return of the boat or for better weather,
... or to stay all night and sleep there if the day were far spent, and themselves
somewhat timid. How primitive all this seems : one can hardly be satisfied that
we are really speaking of the Thames at Westminster, and of a time so little
removed ! The Horseferry, it appears, belonged to the Archbishop of Canter-
bury from time immemorial, by whom it was leased at a rent of £20, at the time
of the suppression. On the opening of the Bridge, both the archbishop and the
lessee received compensation."

81. Page 60. According to Peacham (see ante, p. 139), the public had to
pay one penny to see the monuments in Westminster Abbey. The following,
however, were payments made by royalty : —

" Paid for the hire of a barge that did carry the Palatine and Her Highness
[Princess Elizabeth] by water, when they went to see the monuments at
Westminster .......... zoj.

Given by Her Highness' command to the Keeper of the Monuments at West-
minster ........... 20s."

— (Lord Harrington's MS. Account Book, 161 2- 13, quoted in Green's " Prin-
cesses," v. 196.)

82. Page 61. Hippolytus Colle, Colli, or a Collibus, was a Swiss jurist, of
Italian origin, born at Zurich, 1561 ; died, 1612. He was Chancellor to Chris-
tian, Prince of Anhalt, and afterwards Privy Councillor to the Elector Palatine,
Frederick IV, by whom he was employed in several embassies. In 1591 he was
in England, and again in 1610. He wrote a few legal treatises. His biographer
says of him : " Two virtues were especially commended in him : prudent reserve,
and incorruptibility (afixafyv/ia), or a persistent refusal of bribes, which blind
the eyes even of the wise." (Herzog. Athena Rauriaes Basil. 1778, pp. 157-9.)

83. Page 61. Benjamin von Buwinckhausen was a skilful diplomatist, of
Wirtemberg ; he made several special visits to England, first, in the service of
Duke Frederick, to Queen Elizabeth, in 1598, and subsequently to congratulate
James on his accession. He came again, in company with Prince Lewis Frederick,
in 1608 and 1610. (See the Introduction.) His correspondence with Sir Robert
Cecil on the affairs of Germany is in the State Paper Office. In 1619-20 he was
appointed Ambassador from the Princes of the Union.

84. Page 61. The accounts we have of that "deservedly famous mechanician
and chymist," as the Hon. Robert Boyle calls Cornelius Drebbel, are confused and
inexact. As Drebbel passed many years of his life in England, was patronized by
James I. and Charles I, and astonished our countrymen with his wonderful inven-
tions and instruments, it becomes more necessary to collect as many particulars as pos-
sible regarding his history and doings here, and in elucidation of these discoveries,
especially as his name is only once to be seen in that vast storehouse of historical

Notes. 233

lore, Nichols' Progresses of the former monarch. With this view, therefore, we
shall endeavour to supply the defect by availing ourselves of original sources of
information, including the investigations of Drebbel's own countrymen. The
earliest, perhaps, of these writers is Paquot, who has admitted Drebbel at some
length into his " Hist. litt. des Pays Bas," 1 765, i. 3 1 7, 3 1 8. Adelung, a learned
German author, followed with a notice considerably more extended, in his "His-
tory of Human Folly" {Geschicbte der menschlichen Narrheit, 1 786, ii. 1 25- 1 50)

a very comprehensive theme by-the-bye — but the opinion which he entertained
of the subject of his biography may be ascertained by the heading he adopted,
" Cornelius van Drebbel, ein Charlatan." More circumstantial still, as well as
more exact, was the Dutch writer, J. P. van Cappelle, who has introduced Drebbel
in his " Bijdragen tot de Geschiedenis der Wetenschappen en Letteren in Neder-
land,"8vo. Amst. 1821 ; pp. 65-126. To this notice is prefixed a portrait of Drebbel
very neatly engraved. The last account is by A. J. van der Aa [Biog. Woordenb.
der Nederlanden, iv. pp. 322-327), who has availed himself of some particulars
from the Dutch Notes and Queries, the " Navorscher." Other epithets have
been bestowed upon Drebbel, as alchemist, empiric, magician, and professor of
the black art. But, however extravagant and improbable some of the following
descriptions may appear, yet, allowing, as we ought to do, for the crude state of
physical science and the credulity of the times in which he lived, as well as the then
prevailing tendency to clothe scientific investigations and experiments with an air
of mystery, Cornelius Drebbel is entitled, we think, to hold a respectable position
among the ingenious inventors and mechanicians of the early part of the seven-
teenth century.

Nearly all Drebbel's biographers fall into the mistake of not making him
arrive in England until after the battle of Prague, in 1620; the notice in the
text is therefore of value, as showing that as early as 1610 Cornelius was settled
at Eltham Park, exhibiting his Perpetual Motion, which seems to have been a
sight worthy even of the visit of a foreign prince. At this point, then, we are able
to answer Adelung, who remarks : " What Drebbel did or invented in London is
not known." In all probability he was allowed apartments in Eltham Palace by the
king ; a similar privilege having been granted to Vandyke in the next reign, and.
it was at Eltham that this celebrated artist in summer painted some of his magnifi-
cent pictures. (Carpenter's Life, p. 28.) At the time above mentioned (1610),
in addition to the famous Hall yet remaining, there was standing a goodly pile of
buildings of various styles and dates, which, under the name of " the King's
House," formed the Palace at Eltham. Drebbel's Perpetual Motion is alluded to by
Peacham (see " Sights and Exhibitions," ante, p. 1 39), and by a greater poet, rare
Ben Jonson ; and as some curious mistakes have been made by Gifibrd, his
editor, and others, as to what this " Motion" could have been, we have been
desirous of giving a full description of it, and have accompanied this by an
etching, both derived from a scarce work in the British Museum, written by one
Thomas •Tymme, " Professour of Divinitie," and published in 1612, under the

H H

234 Notes.

title of "A Dialogue philosophicall, wherein Natures secret closet is opened. . .
Together with the wittie invention of an Artificiall Perpetuall Motion, presented
to the Kings most excellent Maiestie. Discoursed betweene two speakers, Phila-
delph and Theophrast." Before quoting this passage, however, it may be as well
to make the reader acquainted with a statement of what wonderful things Drebbel
could and did accomplish, translated from Paquot, and derived from a writer in
"Notes and Queries" (ist Series, ii. 7), both of whom have taken their informa-
tion from a Dutch Chronicle of Alkmaer (by C. van der Woude), printed there in
1645. From this it appears that Drebbel presented King James with "A glass
or crystal globe, wherein he blew or made a perpetual Motion by the power of
the four elements. For every thing which (by the force of the elements) passes
in a year on the surface of the earth, could be seen to pass in this cylindrical
wonder in the shorter lapse of 24 hours. Thus were marked by it all years,
months, days, hours ; the course of the sun, moon, planets, and stars, &c. It
made you understand what cold is, what the cause of the primum mobile, what
the first principle of the sun, how it moves ; the firmament, the stars, the moon,
the sea, the earth ; what occasions the ebb, flood, thunder, lightning, rain, wind;
and how all things wax and multiply, &c, as every one can be informed by
Drebbel's own works ; we refer the curious to his book, entitled Eeuwige
Bewegingbe (Perpetual Motion). He built a ship, in which one could row and
navigate under water, from Westminster to Greenwich, the distance of two Dutch
miles ; even five or six miles, or as far as one pleased. In this boat a person could
see under the surface of the water and without candlelight, as much as he needed
to read in the Bible or any other book. Not long ago this remarkable ship was
yet to be seen lying in the Thames or London river. Aided by some instruments
of his own manufacture, Drebbel could make it rain, lighten, and thunder, at
every time of the year, so that you would have sworn it came in a natural way
from heaven. By means of other instruments he could, in the midst of summer,
so much refrigerate the atmosphere of certain places, that you would have thought
yourself in the very midst of winter. This experiment he did once at his
Majesty's request, in the great Hall of Westminster ; and although a hot summer
• day had been chosen by the King, it became so cold in the Hall that James and
his followers took to their heels in hasty flight. With a certain instrument he
could draw an incredible quantity of water out of a well or river. By his pecu-
liar ingenuity he could at all times of the year, even in the midst of winter, hatch
chickens and ducklings without the aid of hens or ducks. He made instruments
by means of which were seen pictures and portraits ; for instance, he could show
you kings, princes, nobles, although residing at that moment in foreign countries ;
and there was no paint or painter's work to be seen, so that you saw a picture in
appearance, but not in reality. He could make a glass that, placed in the dark
near him or another, drew the light of a candle, standing at the other end of a
long room, with such force, that the glass near him reflected so much light as to
make him see to read perfectly. He could make a plane glass without grinding

DREBBELS PERPETUAL MOTION.

Notes. 235

it on either side, in which people saw themselves reflected seven times. He
invented all these and many other curiosities, too various to relate, without the aid
of the black art ; but by natural philosophy alone, if we may believe the tongues
of those whose eyes saw it. By these experiments he so gained the King's favour,
that his Majesty granted him a pension of 2000 guilders. He died in London,
1634, in the 60th [62nd] year of his age."

The extract from Tymme, in reference to the first-mentioned wonder — the
Perpetual Motion — is as follows. In his Preface to the Reader he says : " And
for that rare things move much, I have thought it pertinent to this Treatise to set
before thee a most strange and wittie invention of another Archimedes, which
concerneth Artiftciall Perpetuall Motion, immitating Nature by a lively patterne of
the Instrument itselfe, as it was presented to the Kings most royall hands by
Cornelius Drebble of Alchmar in Holland," &c. At page 60 : " And to make
plaine the demonstration unto you that the heavens move and not the earth, I
will set before you a memorable Modell arid Patterne, representing the motion of
the Heavens about the fixed earth, made by Art in the immitation of Nature, by a
Gentleman of Holland, named Cornelius Drebble, which instrument is perpetually
in motion, without the means of Steele; springs and waights. — Pbiladelpb. I
much desire to see this strange invention. Therefore I pray thee, good Theo-
phrast, set it here before me, and the use thereof. Tbeopbrast. It is not in my
hands to shew, but in the custody of King James, to whom it was presented.
But yet behold the description thereof hereafter fixed. Phil. What use hath the
Globe, marked with the letter A ? Then, It representeth the Earth ; and it
containeth in the hollow body -thereof divers wheeles of brasse, carried about
with moving, two pointers on each side of the Globe doe proportion and shew
forth the times of dayes, moneths, and yeeres, like a perpetuall Almanacke.
Pbil. But doth it also represent and set forth the motions of the Heavens?
Tbeo. It setteth forth these particulars of Celestiall motion. First, the houres
of the rising and setting of the Sunne, from day to day continually. Secondly,
hereby is to be seene, what signe the Moone is in every 24 houres. Thirdly, in
what degree the Sunne is distant from the Moone. Fourthly, how many degrees
the Sunne and -Moone are distant from us every houre of the day and night.
Fiftly, in what -signe of' the Zodiacke, the Sunne is every rnoneth. Pbil. What
doth the circumference represent, which compaffsefh the Globe about, marked
with this letter C? Tbeo, That circumference is a ring of Crista]] Glasse,
which being hollow, hath in it water; representing the Sea, which water riseth
and falleth, as doth the floud and ebbe, twise in 24 houres, according to the
course of the tides in those parts, where this Instrument shall be placed. Whereby
is to be seene how the Tides keepe their course by day or by night. Pbil. What
meaneth the little Globe about the Ring of the Glasse, signed with this letter B?
Tbeo. That little Globe, as it carrieth the forme of a Moone cressent, so it
turneth about once in a moneth, setting forth the encrease and decrease of the
Moones brightnesse, from the wane to the foil, by turning round every moneth

236 Notes,

in the yeere. Phil. Can you yeeld me any reason to perswade me concerning
the possibility of the perpetuity of this motion? Theo. You have heard before
that fire is the most active and powerful) element, and the cause of all motion in
nature. This was well knowne to Cornelius, by his practise in the untwining
of the Elements, and therefore to the effecting of this great worke, he extracted
a fierie spirit out of the minerall matter, joyning the same with his proper Aire,
which encluded in the Axeltree, being hollow, carrieth the wheeles, making a
continuall rotation or revolution, except issue or vent be given to the Axeltree,
whereby that imprisoned Spirit may get forth. I am bolde thus to conjecture,
because I did at sundry times pry into the practise of this Gentleman, with
whom I was very familiar. Moreover, when as the King our Soveraigne, could
hardly beleeve that this motion should be perpetuall, except the misterie were
revealed unto him : this cunning Bezakel, in secret manner disclosed to his
Maiestie the secret, whereupon he applauded the rare invention. The fame
hereof caused the Emperour [Rudolph II.] to entreate his most Excellent Maiestie
to licence [allow] Cornelius Bezaleel to come to his Court, there to effect the
like Instrument for him, sending unto Cornelius a rich chaine of gold. Phil. It
becommeth not me to make question concerning the certaintie of that, which so
mighty Potentates out of the sublimity of their wisedomes have approved, yet me
thinketh that time and rust, which corrupteth and weareth out all earthly things,
may bring an end to this motion in few yeeres. Tbeo. To the end time may
not weare these wheeles by their motion, you must know that they move in such
slow measure, that they cannot weare, and the lesse, for that they are not forced
by any poyse of waight. It is reported in the Preface of Euclydes Elements by
John Dee, that he and Hieronimus Cardanus saw an instrument of perpetuall
motion, which was solde for 20 talents of gold, and after presented to Charles the
fift Emperour ; wherein was one wheele of such invisible motion, that in 70
yeeres only his owne period should be finished. Such slow motion cannot weare
the wheeles. And to the end rust may not cause decay, every engine belonging
to this instrument is double guilded with fine gold, which preserveth from rust
and corruption. Phil. This wonderfull demonstration of Artificiall motion, immi-
tating the motion celestial], about the fixed earth, doth more prevaile with me to
approve your reasons before aleadged concerning the moving of the Heavens, and
the stability of the Earth, than can Copernicus assertions, which concerne the
motion of the Earth. I have heard and read of manie strange motions artificiall,
as were the inventions of Boetius, in whose commendation Cassiodorus writeth
thus : You know profound things and shew mervailes, by the disposition of your
Art, mettals doe lowe in sundrie formes : Diomedes picture of brasse, doth sound a
Trumpet loude : a brasen Serpent hisseth : birds artificiall, sing sweetly. Very
strange also was the moving of the Images of Mercurie : The brasen head which
seemed to speake, made by Albertus Magnus : The Dove of wood, which the Mathe-
matician Architas, did make to flie, as Agellius reporteth. Dedalus strange
Images, which Plato speaketh of; Vulcans selfe-movers, whereof Homer hath.

Notes.

2 37

written : the Iron Fly, made at Noremberge [by Regiomontanus], which being
let out of the Artificers hands, did as it were flie about by the guests that were
at the table, and at the last, as though it were weary, returned to his Maisters
hand againe. In which Citie also an artificiall Eagle [made by Regiomontanus]
was so ordered to flie aloft in the ayre toward the Emperour comming thither, that
it did accompany him a mighty way. These were ingenious inventions, but none
of them are comparable to this perpetuall motion here described, which time
by triall in ages to come, will much commend. Tbeo. These great misteries
were attained by spending more oyle then wine ; by taking more paines then
following pleasure."

Having disposed of this curious and certainly marvellous description of Drebbel's
instrument of Perpetual Motion, we will now quote Ben Jonson's allusion to it.
This occurs in his "Silent Woman" (played in 1609), act 5, sc. 3. Morose
exclaims, " My very house turnes round with the tumult! I dwell in a Wind-
mill ! The Perpetuall Motion is here, and not at Eltham." On this passage
Gifford offers the following note : " Here [at Eltham] was a. puppet-show of great
celebrity in our author's time. It is called in Peacham's verses to Coryat, ' that
divine [' heavenly,' not 'divine,' see p. 139] motion at [of] Eltham,' so that it was
probably some piece of Scripture history. Jonson introduces it again in his Epigrams
[' On the New Motion'] : —

" See you yond' Motion ? not the old Fa-ding,
Nor Captayne Pod, nor yet the Eltham-thing,
[But one more rare" — ].

The mistake is certainly a curious one, inasmuch as the word Motion was at
that period understood to signify a puppet-show as well, and sometimes even a single
puppet, and it is used by Ben Jonson in his " Bartholomew Fair," and also by
Shakespeare in this sense. The mistake is a suitable companion to that made by
Mr. Payne Collier, who converted a piece of pastry or confectionery into a play
(see his Hist, of Dram. Poetry, i. 20 ; and the New Retrospective Review, 1 854,
p. 244). Mr. Henry Dircks, C. E., the inventor of the Ghost illusion, pub-
lished in 1861 a goodly volume of 558 pages on the subject of Perpetual Motion.
The author states that he was unable to see a copy of Tymme's work; he
therefore quotes an extract from Bishop Wilkins, who, in his " Mathematical!
Magick" (1648, p. 229, cap. ix., treating of a Perpetuall Motion) writes:
"Amongst the chymicall experiments to this purpose may be reckoned up that
famous motion invented by Cornelius Dreble, and made for King James ;
wherein was represented the constant revolutions of the sun and moone, and
that without the help either of spring or weights. Marcellus Vranckhein,
speaking of the means whereby it was performed, he cals it, Scintillula anima
magnetica mundi, seu Astralis et insensibilis spiritus ; being that grand secret,
for the discovery of which, those Dictators of Philosophic, Democritus, Pytha-
goras, Plato, did travell unto the Gymnosophists and Indian Priests. The
Authour himself, in his discourse upon it (Epist. ad Jacobum Regem), does not

2 3 8

Notes.

at all reveal the way how it was performed. But there is one Thomas Tymme,
who was a familiar acquaintance of his, and did often pry into his works (as
he professes himself), who affirms it to bee done thus : ' By extracting a fiery
spirit? ice. (See this, ante, p. 236.) What strange things may be done by such
extractions I know not, and therefore dare not condemn this relation as impos-
sible ; but methinks it sounds rather like a chymicall dream, than a Philosophicall
truth. It seems this imprisoned spirit is now set at liberty or else is grown weary,
for the instrument (as I have heard) hath stood still for many years. It is here
considerable that any force is weakest near the center of a wheel, and therefore
though such a spirit might of itself have an agitation, yet 'tis not easily con-
ceivable how it should have strength enough to carry the wheels about with it.
And then the absurdity of the authours citing this, would make one mistrust his
mistake ; he urges it as a strong argument against Copernicus, as if because Dreble
did thus contrive in an engine the revolution of the heavens, and the immove-
ablenesse of the earth, therefore it must needs follow that 'tis the heavens which
are moved and not the earth. If his relation were no truer than his consequence,
it had not been worth the citing."

Bishop Wilkins, referring to the submarine vessel, says (p. 178) : " That such
a contrivance is feasible and may be effected, is beyond all question, because it
hath been already experimented here in England by Cornelius Dreble; but
how to improve it unto publike use and advantage so as to be serviceable for
remote voyages, the carrying of any considerable number of men, with provi-
sions and commodities, would be of such excellent use as may deserve some further
inquiry."

Boyle also, in his " New Experiments physico-mechanicall," &c. (8vo. Oxf.
1660 ; pp. 363-365), mentions a "conceit of Drebell, who is affirmed by more
then a few credible persons, to have contriv'd for the late learned King James, a
Vessel to go under water, of which tryal was made in the Thames with admired
success, the vessel carrying twelve rowers besides passengers, one of which is yet
alive, and related it to an excellent Mathematician that inform'd me of it. Now
that for which I mention this story is, that having had the curiosity and oppor-
tunity to make particular enquiries among the relations of Drebell, and especially
of an ingenious Physitian [Dr. Kuffler] that marry'd his daughter, concerning the
grounds upon which he conceived it feasible to make men unaccustom'd to con-
tinue so long under water without suffocation, or (as the lastly mention'd person
that went in the vessell affirmes) without inconvenience, I was answer'd that
Drebell conceiv'd, that 'tis not the whole body of the Air, but a certain Quintes-
sence (as Chymists speake) or spirituous part of it, that makes it fit for respiration,
which being spent, the remaining grosser body or carcase (if I may so call it) of
the Air, is unable to cherish the vitall flame residing in the heart : so that (for
ought I could gather) besides the mechanicall contrivance of his vessell, he had a
chymicall liquor which he accounted the chiefe secret of his submarine navigation.
For when from time to time he perceiv'd that the finer and purer part of the Air

Notes. 239

was consum'd or over-clogg'd by the respiration and steames of those that went in
his ship, he would, by unstopping a vessell full of this liquor, speedily restore to
the troubled air such a proportion of vitall parts as would make it againe for
a good while fit for respiration, whether by dissipating or precipitating the grosser
exhalations or by some other intelligible way, I must not now stay to examine.
Contenting myselfe to add, that having had the opportunity to do some service to
those of his Relations, that were most intimate with him, and having made it my
business to learne what this strange liquor might be, they constantly affirm'd that
Drebell would never disclose the liquor unto any, nor so much as tell the matter
whereof he made it, to above one person, who himselfe assur'd me that it was.
This account of Drebell's performance I mention, not that I any further assent to
his opinion then I have already intimated, but because the man and the invention
being extraordinary, I suppose your Lordship will not be displeas'd to know the
utmost I could learne about it, especially not having found it mention'd by any
writer." Boyle, elsewhere (Works, ed. Birch, v. 128), speaks of Drebbel's dis-
coveries. Writing on the subject of the Thermometer, he says : " It is certain
that Drebble, that great, singular, learned mechanick, did by the help of this
instrument, make a dial continually to move of itself, regularly shewing both the
time of the day and other motions of the heavens ; did also make an automatous
instrument of musick, and found out a furnace which he could govern to any
degree of heat ; but whether these have died with him, or how far the medita-
tions of others have wrought upon them, I shall humbly refer to a more leisurable
enquiry." At p. 139, vol. iii. of his Works, ed. Birch, Boyle says : " I may safely
affirm that a great deal of money hath been gained by tradesmen both in England
and elsewhere upon the account of the Scarlet Dye invented in our time by Corne-
lius Drebble, who was not bred a dyer, nor other tradesman." See further on the
subject of this scarlet dye in Beckmann's Hist, of Inventions, art. ' Cochineal.'
Beckmann says Drebbel communicated his discovery to Kuffelar, who was after-
wards his son-in-law, and that the name by which this dye was known was
Kuffelar's colour. When he mentions a little farther on a Fleming named Kepler,
who established the first dye-house for scarlet in England, at the village of Bow,
not far from London, we should recognize in this form the same Dr. Kuffler.
The colour was also known as the " Bow-dye."

It appears from the " Calendar of State Papers," of James I, that some short
time previous to May 161 2, Drebbel addressed a letter in Latin to Prince Henry,
informing him that the Lord Mayor had refused him permission to hold a Lottery,
and that he had no other means of subsistence ; he begs in consequence the
Prince's influence with Lord Treasurer Salisbury for leave to have one beyond
the jurisdiction of the city. Here we behold the cunning Dutchman suffering
from the same unfortunate, but alas ! too common, malady of atrophy of the
purse, as the " Clerk of Oxenforde, of whom it is said :" —
" But al though he were a philosophre,
Yet hadde he but litel gold in cofre."

240 Notes.

The Prince had, in December, 1609, given the sum of £20 to "Cornelius
the Dutchman," — undoubtedly Drebbel- — as appears from his book of Privy
Purse Expenses, in the Public Record Office (Dom. Ivii). A further sum of
£20 was paid to Cornelius the Dutchman, on March 29th in the following year.
Willem Boreel, the Dutch Ambassador in London in 1 619, states that
Drebbel, a very "cunning man in Nature's secrets," showed him a Micro-
scope, manufactured by John [Lippershey, the spectacle-maker] of Middelburg,
which had been presented to Drebbel himself by the Archduke Albert.
(Borellus, De vera invetitore Telescopii, 1655, p. 35.) We are again reminded
of Drebbel's fame in London by two letters, written on December 21, 1622, by
the celebrated French philosopher Peiresc, who had shortly before been in England,
anxiously enquiring of his friends and correspondents, Camden and Selden,
respecting the truth of the astonishing inventions of " Cornelius Drubelsius (as he
calls him), who is in the service of the King of Great Britain, and residing in a
house near London." Peiresc refers to the Perpetual Motion, the submarine
boat, and to telescopes {lunettes) by means of which you can read writing at the
distance of more than a league. He also mentions his having seen at Paris
Drebbel's small glasses [microscopes], through which you can see mites as large
as flies. (Epist. Camdeni, 4W. Lond. 1691, pp. 333, 387.) The Dutch phi-
losopher had acquired at Middelburg, about 1620, both a Telescope and a Micro-
scope from the spectacle-maker, the supposed inventor, and it is likely that Drebbel
was now attempting to pass off these optical instruments as his own invention, or
had made others in imitation. Farley's verse, ridiculing the seeing, among other
things," a foolish Ingin move alone" (see Note 16), in all probability applies to
one of Drebbel's specimens of handiwork. In 1625," Cornelius Dreble the Engi-
neer" walked in the funeral procession of his late royal master, in the immediate
company of " Baston le Peer the dauncer,- under-officers of the Mynte, Actors
and Comedians." (Nichols' Progr. of James I. iii. 1042.) The Calendar of
State Papers of Charles I, p. 367, discloses that on July 4, 1626, the Earl of
Totness sent a Warrant to Sir W. Heydon, Lieutenant of the Ordnance, to
provide lodgings and workshops in the " Minorites," for Cornelius Drebbel and
Arnold Rotispen, who were to apply their skill for His Majesty's service.
Having performed their work, we next find (June 5, 1627) another Warrant
signed by the King, to pay Drebbel and Rotispen £100, as a reward for forging
divers water-engines (p. 206). From the same source we learn that, in January,
1630, "Cornelius Drible, engineer," in concert with other "undertakers"
named, made propositions for draining the level within the counties of Norfolk,
Suffolk, Cambridge, Isle of Ely, Huntingdon, Northampton, and Lincoln. From
other documents of the date of March, 1630, it appears that Drebbel and
Abraham Kuffler had been employed in the late expedition to Rochelle, by
authority of an Order of the Council, issued on July 1 3, 1628, for the preparation
of three extraordinary fireships, under the direction of Colonel Peblis, and six
engines for fireworks, according to the directions of the Lord Admiral, with

Notes. 241

allowance of pay to the chief officers of the same fireships and engines ; among
whom are Abraham Kuffler, zoj. per diem, and Cornelius Drebbel, £150 per
month. Kuffler and Drebbel petitioned for further payment, but this was refused.

Drebbel had a daughter who married Dr. Kuffler, a physician. Monconys,
in his " Voyage d'Angleterre," 1663, p. 40, informs us that he went four miles
out of London, to a village called Stratford-boa, to see Dr. Keiffer (the same
person), with whom he held much learned discourse on the subject of Drebbel's
and the Doctor's own inventions and experiments. Kuffler, indeed, gave out that
he was possessed of many of his father-in-law's secrets ; and one of these, it appears,
was brought to the notice of the Duke of York, through Mr. Secretary Pepys. In
the Calendar of State Papers of Charles II, March, 1 66z, is a Request of Johannes
Sibertus Kuffeler and Jacob Drebble, for a trial of their father Cornelius Drebble's
secret of sinking or destroying ships in a moment, and they ask for a reward of
£10,000 if it should succeed. The secret was left them by will, to preserve for
the English Crown before any other power. Pepys {Diary, March 14th,
1662) writes: "Home to dinner. In the afternoon come the German, Dr.
Knuffler, to discourse with us about his engine to blow up ships. We doubted
not the matter of fact, it being tried in Cromwell's time, but the safety of carrying
them in ships ; but he do tell us, that when he comes to tell the King his secret —
for none but the kings successively and their heirs must know it — it will appear
to be of no danger at all. We concluded nothing, but shall discourse with the
Duke of York to-morrow about it." And on October nth, 1663, is another
entry : " At noon to the Coffee-house, where, with Dr. Allen, some good dis-
course about physick and chymistry. And among other things, I telling him
what Dribble, the German Doctor, do offer of an instrument to sink ships ; he
tells me that which is more strange, that something made of gold, which they call
in chymistry Aurum. Fulminans, a grain, I think he said, of it, put into a silver
spoon and fired, will give a blow like a musquett, and strike a hole through the
silver spoon downward without the least force upwards ; and this he can make a
cheaper experiment of, he says, with iron prepared." Evelyn also visited the
wonderful Doctor, on August 1st, 1666. He says: "I went to Dr. Keffler,
who married the daughter of the famous Chymist Drebbell, inventor of the
bodied scarlet. I went to see his iron ovens, made portable (formerly) for the
Prince of Orange's army."

Drebbel's writings, many of which are in the British Museum, relate chiefly to
his own discoveries; it must be confessed, however, that they contain but little
of scientific value, yet they are curious and rare, and have not hitherto been accu-
rately described. It would seem that Drebbel, immediately on his arrival in
England, addressed a letter to King James I, descriptive of his Perpetual Motion.
The exact year is not known, but from an Epistle by G. P.Schaghen.dated from
Alcmaer (Drebbel's native place), December, 1607 (printed at p. 45 of the Dutch
edition, " On the Nature of the Elements," 162 1, presently to be mentioned), the
writer refers to the Perpetual Motion as having been already presented to his

1 I

242 Notes.

Majesty; he moreover extols Drebbel and his surprising discoveries, and alludes
to the great gifts with which the King had honoured him. Drebbel, in his
description, says that he was not sufficiently master of the English and Latin lan-
guages to express perfectly his meaning ; that, therefore, he had written his
treatise in Dutch (in Duyts), and had caused it to be literally translated. In the
absence of any original Dutch printed edition in the Museum, there is good reason
for stating that the work " On the Elements," including Drebbel's Letter to the
King, appeared at Leyden in 1 608 ; in that year likewise, and at the same place,
came out a German translation of the former treatise, having an engraved portrait
of the author on the back of the title; it was reprinted at Erfurt in 1624. The
Dutch edition of both works re-appeared at Haerlem in 1 62 1, sm. 8vo. with a
woodcut portrait of the author. A Latin translation by Peter Lauremberg, with an
additional treatise by Drebbel, " De quinta Essentia," was published at Hamburg
in 1621, by Joach. Morsius, who had travelled in England. Another edition,
but without the work on the Elements, appeared in the same year, but no place
of printing is given. The complete version was republished at Geneva, in 1628,
i2mo. In this year also a distinct Latin translation of the " Nature of the Ele-
ments," by Johann Ernst Burggrave, was published at Frankfort, in 8vo. This
edition contains on the reverse of the title a very neatly engraved portrait of
Drebbel, which may have been done by the author himself, as there is evidence
of his having, when a young man, worked under the celebrated Goltzius, whose
sister he afterwards married. While in his service, he executed a few engravings,
one being a plan of his native place, dated 1 597. In 1 747, Boomkamp, the Dutch
historian, was permitted the use of this plate for his work, " Alkmaer en deszelfs
Geschiedenissen," by the Burgomasters of the town, in whose Chamber it had
been deposited. The engraving is very accurately and carefully executed.

85. Page 62. Nonesuch was a very famous palace, situated near Cheam in
Surrey. It was erected for King Henry VIII, in all probability by the Italian
painter and architect, Antonio Toto del Nunziata, who resided twenty years in
this country. Vasari expressly states that Toto built the principal palace (il pfin-
cipale palazzo) of the King of England. (Vite de' pittori s Firenze, 1854, x. 139.)
When Elizabeth ascended the throne, Nonesuch was purchased by the Earl of
Arundel, who completed and ornamented the building, and entertained her
Majesty with great cheer for five days together. The Queen, however, soon
became so partial to Nonesuch, that she induced Lord Lumley, the earl's son-in-
law, to exchange the mansion, so that in 1591 it became again a royal palace.
She paid frequent visits to it, and in 1600, when in her sixty-seventh year, we
find her here — a perfect Diana — " excellently disposed to bunting, for every
second day she is on horseback, and continues the sport long." Mr. J. Gough
Nichols, in one of his interesting topographical sketches ("Gentleman's Magazine,"
August, 1837,) has carefully traced its vicissitudes through many reigns, until it
fell into the hands of Charles II's rapacious mistress, Barbara, Countess of Castle-
maine, who was created " Baroness of Nonesuch," and who speedily consigned

Notes. 243

the noble palace and its fair park to destruction and desolation. The Duke of
Saxe-Weimar visited Nonesuch in the autumn of 1613, and noticed the exterior
of the inner court, which was the residence of Henry VIII, beautifully and
elegantly adorned with plaster-work, representing the labours of Hercules, and
other histories; the other side — the Queen's lodgings — exhibited all kinds of
heathen stories, with naked female figures. The German traveller then speaks of
the pictures (see ante, p. 163) and gardens, the fountains, the grove and grotto
of Diana, with statues representing Action's Metamorphosis; and he copied the
several verses and mottoes about and around the place. The Parliamentary Sur-
veyor, when describing, in 1650, the Privy Garden, directs especial attention to
" six trees called lelack trees, which trees beare no fruite, but only a very pleasant
flower." Pepys, who was at Nonesuch in 1665, observed " all the house on the
outside filled with figures of stories." Evelyn in the following year particularly
remarked and felt surprise at the good preservation of the " plaster statues and
basse relievos inserted 'twixt the timbers and punchions of the outside walles of the
court, which must needs have been the work of some celebrated Italian — there are
some mezzo-relievos as big as the life; the storie is of y c heathen gods, emblems,
compartments," &c. In the " Gentleman's Magazine," accompanying the descrip-
tion before referred to, there is a neatly-executed engraving copied from Hoefnagei 1's
interesting view of the old Palace in the year 1582 ; in the foreground of this
is seen England's Elizabeth herself, sitting in solitary grandeur — "in maiden
meditation, fancy free" — in her clumsy-looking coach drawn by two horses, and
attended by mounted cavaliers, nimble halberdiers, hunting dogs, &c.

86. Page 62. Beddington House, in Surrey, was a famous seat of the Carew
family. The old mansion was built, or perhaps speaking more accurately, re-
built in the time of Elizabeth by Sir Francis Carew, son of Sir Nicholas, beheaded
in the reign of Henry VIII. The gardens were celebrated for their choice fruit-
trees, and for an orangery, the first of the kind in this country. Queen Elizabeth
visited Beddington in August, 1599, and again in the same month of the follow-
ing year. On one of these occasions the knight practised a " pretty conceit,"
which is thus told by Sir Hugh Piatt in his " Floraes Paradise" (afterwards
entitled the "Garden of Eden") 1 608, p. 173 : " Heere I will conclude with
a pretty conceit of that delicate knight, Sir Francis Carew, who, for the better
accomplishment of his royall entertainment of our late Queene of happy memory,
at his house at Beddington, led her Majestie to a cherrie tree, whose fruite hee
had of purpose kept backe from ripening, at the least one month after all cherries
had taken their farewell of England. This secret he performed by straining a
tent or cover of canvas over the whole tree, and wetting the same now and then
with a scoope or home, as the heate of the weather required ; and so, by with-
holding the sunne beames from reflecting uppon the berries, they grew both great,
and were very long before they had gotten their perfect cherrie-colour ; and when
hee was assured of her Majesties comming, he removed- the tent, and a few sunny
daies brought them to their full maturitie." It would appear from another work

244 Notes.

of Piatt, the "Jewell House of Art and Nature," 1594, p. 5, that the experi-
ment had been tried some years before by Sir Francis, who is here spoken of only
as "a Surrey Knight." Aubrey, writing about 1673, describes the mansion as
a " handsome pile of building," and its " neat gardens," as not yet finished. He
mentions also a summer-house erected by Sir Francis, in which was a red and
white marble table, which bore a monumental inscription inTDutch for " myn
wrowe Margriete" — at the end was a hawk with a label, brought from abroad by
Sir Francis Carew. On the top of this pleasure-house was painted the Spanish In-
vasion of 1 588, much decayed, under which was a cold bath. The old mansion
was pulled down at the beginning of the last century, and the present one built.
The hall, however, — a fine specimen of the Elizabethan domestic architecture,
with a rich open roof — was the chief portion retained. A small room adjoining
the hall contains the " ancient panels with mantled carving." (" Manning and
Bray," ii. 520.) Views of Beddington House are in Campbell's "Vitruvius
Britannicus," in Malcolm's " Views ;" in Ellis's " Campagna of London ;" of the
house and hall, in Brayley's " Surrey," and of the hall, in Nash's " Mansions of
the Olden Time." The orange-trees from which it is said (" Archaeologia," xii.
182) the gardener had, in 1690, gathered no less than 10,000 oranges, were de-
stroyed by the hard frost of 1739T40. Sir Francis died in 161 1, unmarried, and
was buried in Beddington Church, where there are several monuments and brasses
of the Carews. Sir Walter Raleigh married Sir Francis's niece, a daughter of
Sir Nicholas Throckmorton.

87. Page 62. Royston lies partly in Cambridgeshire, but mostly in Hertfordshire.
James I. built a house in that part of the town which is in the former county,
and hither he frequently retired to enjoy the amusements of hunting, hawking, and
dotterel-catching. This house, called the King's House, was, when Clutterbuck
wrote (1827), occupied by a carpenter. Bishop Hacket speaks of his hospitable
reception by James I, at " that hunting Court at Royston," and in his Life of
Lord Keeper Williams (Pt. I. p. 227), presents us with the following curious pic-
ture of the sporting and theologian monarch. Answering certain objections, he
writes, " It is said, but mistaken, that Government was neglected at those
Hunting-Houses ; and by the way, why are they called obscure places, Royston
and Newmarket? petty if compared with London, but they are market-towns
and great thorowfares ; where the Court was so frequented, both for business and
recreations, that many of the followers could not find a lodging in that town
[Royston], nor scarce in the villages round about it. I held acquaintance with
some that attended the Principal Secretaries there, who protest they were held to
it closer, and sat up later in those retirements to make dispatches than at London.
The King went not out with his hounds above three days in the week, and hunt-
ing was soon over. Much of the time his Majesty spent in State Contrivances,
and at his book. I have stood by his table often, when I was about the age of
two and twenty years and from thenceforward, and have heard learned pieces
read before him at his dinners (see ante, p. 153, and Note 145), which I thought

Notes. 245

strange; but a Chaplain of James Montague, Bishop of Winton, told me that the
Bishop had read over unto him the four tomes of Cardinal Bellarmine's Contro-
versies at those respites, when his Majesty took fresh air, and weighed the objec-
tions and answers of that subtle author, and sent often to the Libraries in Cam-
bridge for books to examine his quotations." In 1609 the highways were mended
between London, Royston, and Newmarket, " for his Majesty's better passage in
going and coming to his recreation." (Devon's Issues.) There are also payments
to Henry Half hide, keeper of the game about Royston, for making bridges, ditches
and ponds, and providing fowls for his Majesty's disport and pleasure. A keeper
of the hares at Royston received a salary of zs. per diem. At the commencement
of the Civil War, King Charles removed from Hampton Court to his house at
Royston, previously to his setting up his standard at Nottingham. On the 24th
of June, 1647, being a prisoner to the Army, he was lodged in his own house
there two nights. (Lysons' Mag. Brit. Camb. 4to, 1808, p. 247.) The Survey
of Royston House, taken after the King's death, describes the King's lodgings as
in good repair, consisting of a presence-chamber, privy-chamber, and other rooms.

88. Page 63. Richard Thomson, M.A. of Clare Hall, Cambridge, was born
in Holland of English parents. He was a ripe scholar, philologist and critic.
Among his friends he reckoned Isaac Casaubon, the Scaligers, and " rare" Ben
Jonson. He was one of those learned men selected for the revision of the
English Bible, which resulted in our authorized version. Ant. Wood (Fasti
Oxon. i. 274) says of Thomson : " This learned person is styled by a noted
Presbyterian, ' the grand propagaterof Arminianism,' and by another (W. Prynne)
' a deboist drunken English Dutchman, who seldom went one night to bed sober.'
Yet a noted writer (Richard Mountague) who knew him well, tells us, that he
was a most admirable philologer, and that he was better known in Italy, France
and Germany, than at home." Being an excellent linguist, he frequently acted
as cicerone to foreigners over the colleges of his University, where he was known
as Butch Thomson. Mr. J. E. B. Mayor, of Cambridge, has been at the pains
of extracting from the printed correspondence of the time notices of Richard
Thomson. (See Notes and Queries, 2nd Series, vol. 9.)

89. Page 63. James I. erected at Newmarket for the like purpose of hunt-
ing, &c. a house, which was destroyed in the Civil Wars. At this place, so
celebrated in the Annals of the Turf, it seems probable that races were established
as early as the reign of the above monarch, who much encouraged the sport.
Fynes Moryson (I tin. 161 7, Pt. I. p. 198) alludes to betting at horse-races by
" no meane Lords, and Lordes sonnes and Gentlemen." A letter of John Cham-
berlain, Esq. of March 11, 1612-13, informs us that " the King escaped a great
danger at Newmarket, by reason the foundation of the house where he lay began
to sink on one side with great cracks, so that the doors and windows flew open,
and they were fain to carry him out of his bed with all possible expedition : the
next day he removed to Thetford." (Court and Times of James I, i. 233.)
At Newmarket, the King, in April, 1616, gave £80 to two Frenchmen, for his

246 Notes.

Highness's disport and recreation in the exercise of their several arts of fencing
and dancing. (Devon's Issues of the Exchequer?) In a book entitled " A Dis-
course of divers Petitions," by John Spencer, 1641, is a "Petition delivered unto
our gracious King Charles upon this occasion : the King was to go towards New-
Market upon Munday, but the waggon and the hounds went thorow Cheapside upon
the Lord's Day, which was not lawful], o King ; I never heard that they removed
since upon the Lord's Day, so gracious was the King's care herein. Good King
Charles, Remember to keep holy the Sabbath Day." The unfortunate Monarch
was brought here a prisoner by the army in 1 647, and remained here about ten days.
Charles II. rebuilt the house, and frequently resorted hither for the sake of the
races. In the Department of Prints and Drawings, in the British Museum, is a
very curious print, probably the earliest of the kind known, by Francis Barlow,
being a representation of the last horse-race run before Charles II, by Dorsett
Ferry, near Windsor Castle, August 24, 1684, and "drawen from the place."
The running horses, however, look anything but high-mettled racers, of the breeds
of Childers and Eclipse. Lysons {Mag. Brit. Camb. 1808, p. 240) says : " The
present King's house is a moderate-sized brick mansion ; a room is shewn in it,
called King William's apartment, and another called Queen Anne's."

90. Page 63. " Touching the Hunting of the Hare, (says Markham) which
is everie honest man and good mans chase, and which indeed is the freest, readiest
and most enduring pastime, and likewise in its owne kinde ful of good profit for
mans preservation : for though the beast be but little, yet are the members worth
injoyment; as the flesh, which is good for all manner of fluxes; the braines good
to make children breed their teeth with ease; the wool excellent to stench
blood; the gall soveraigne for sore eies; the blood which will kil rume, wormes;
and the stiffling bone, which being worne, takeih away the paine of the crampe;
with many other good things besides." (Countrye Contentments, 1615, b. i. p. 31.)

91. Page 63. Thetford, 16 miles from Newmarket, is situated both in Nor-
folk and Suffolk. The date of the erection of a hunting seat here is determined
by an extract from a letter of Mr. Rowland Whyte, March 4, 1604-5, wno
writes, "The King is at Thetford, and is soe farre in love with the pleasure of
that place as he meanes to have a howse there." It is also ordered that none shall
presume to come to his Majesty " on hunting days." From this time to about
the year 1616, the King paid frequent visits to Thetford. In the " Calendar of
State Papers," there are payments to the Lady Barwick and John her son for
keeping the King's House at Thetford, \zd. by the day, and for keeping the
garden there \zd. by the day : in all by the year £36 10s. James in the above
year 1 616 visited Thetford, and a droll anecdote is told by Martin in his "Hist,
of Thetford," (4to. Lond. 1779, p. 57) as follows : "James I. during the hunting
seasons for several years spent some time in this ancient burgh, till he received an
affront from one of the farmers belonging to the town, who being highly offended
at the liberty his Majesty took in riding over his corn, in the transport of his
passion threatened to bring an action of trespass against the King. Since that

Notes. 247

time neither that King nor any of his successors have visited this town." When
Blomefield wrote, the house was called the " King's House." Martin also says,
" The Royal Palace was given by James I. to Sir Philip Woodhouse, whose arms
are yet remaining over the west side of the outer gate. It was rebuilt in the pre-
sent century, and served for the reception of the Judges during the Assizes."
In 1620 there were horse-races here, which gave rise to disturbances, and caused
letters to be sent from the Privy Council to suppress them. (Martin, ut sup.
p. Z93.)

92. Page 63. William Lord Hay succeeded his father Francis as ninth Earl of
Erroll in 163 1, and acted as High Constable of Scotland at the Coronation of
Charles I, 1633. He lived in a manner so splendid that he was obliged to dis-
pose of his paternal Lordship of Erroll. He died December 7, 1636.

93. Page 63. The allusion here made to a solemn observance by the King of
the day of his deliverance from the Gowry Conspiracy on Tuesday, May 8th,
was for some time a puzzle to the editor. The anniversary of this event is well
known to be August 5th, which day was ordered to be strictly observed in com-
memoration of the royal escape. A reference, however, to the "Relation d'
Angleterre" of Marc' Antonio Correr, the Venetian Ambassador in England at
this time (1610), clears up the difficulty. He says : " His Majesty is accustomed to
go to prayer and to sermon every Sunday and Tuesday, holding in much devotion
this day, on which he was delivered from a conspiracy formed by certain Scottish
Earls to kill him in Scotland in 1660 [1600]. It is for this reason be goes every
Tuesday to church to render thanks to God, who preserved him from those assas-
sins." The Anniversary Sermon was usually preached before the King by the
celebrated Bishop Andrewes, in whose printed collection of " xcvi Sermons"
(fol. Lond. 1629), eight of these " Gowrie Sermons" are to be found of the 5th of
August, besides ten on the 5 th of November, being the anniversary of the Gun-
powder Treason. In their dedication of the work to Charles I, by the Bishops
of London and Ely, (Laud and Buckeridge,) they say : " These Sermons when
preached gave great contentment to the religious and judicious eares of your Royall
Father of ever blessed memorie, the most hable Prince that ever this kingdome had,
to judge of Church-worke."

94. Page 63. A Dotterel is a grallatorial bird of the plover family. James I.

was exceedingly fond of the sport of dotterel-catching. Michael Drayton, in his

topographical poem, the " Polyolbion," 161 3, sings thus of the bird, —
" The Dotterell, which we think a very dainty dish,
Whose taking makes such sport as man no more can wish ;
For, as you creepe, or cowre, or lye, or stoupe, or goe,
So marking you (with care) the apish bird doth doe,
And acting everything, doth never mark the net,
Till he be in the snare which men for him have set."

Drayton touches on the same subject in some bantering verses prefixed to Coryat's

"Crudities," 161 1 :—

248 Notes.

" Most worthy man, with thee it is even thus,
As men take Dottrels, so jiast thou ta'n us,
Which as a man his arme or leg doth set,
So this fond bird will likewise counterfeit,'' &c.
Lord Bacon, in his Natural History, the "Sylva Sylvarum," 1627, says: "We
see how ready apes and monkeys are to imitate all motions of man ; and in the
catching of dottrels, we see how the foolish bird playeth the ape in gestures."
There are many allusions in our old dramatists to this notion of the imitative ac-
tion of the dotterel. Ben Jonson has introduced in his play of the " Devil is an
Ass " a character called ' Fabian Fitzdottrel, a squire of Norfolk.' Willughby, in
his "Ornithology," fol. 1678, pp. 309, 310, says : "It is a very foolish bird, but
excellent meat, and with us accounted a great delicacy. It is taken in the night
time by the light of a candle, by imitating the gestures of the fowler; for if he
stretches out an arm, that also stretches out a wing ; if he a foot, that likewise a
foot ; in brief, whatever the fowler doth, the same doth the bird ; and so being
intent upon men's gestures, it is deceived and covered with the net spread for it.
It is a foolish bird, even to a proverb, we calling a foolish dull person a Dotterel.
Of the catching of dotterels, my very good friend Mr. Peter Dent, an apothecary
in Cambridge, wrote to me thus : ' A gentleman of Norfolk, where this kind of
sport is very common, told me that to catch dotterels six or seven persons usually
go in company. When they have found the birds, they set their net in an advan-
tageous place, and each of them holding a stone in either hand, get behind the
birds, and striking their stones often one against another, rouse them which are
naturally very sluggish ; and so by degrees coup them and drive them into the
net. The birds being awakened do often stretch themselves, putting out a wing
or a leg, and in imitation of them the men that drive them thrust out an arm or
leg for fashion sake, to comply with an old custom. But he thought that this
imitation did not conduce to the taking of them, for that they seemed not to mind
or regard it." In Fuller's " Worthies," under Lincolnshire, he writes : " The
Dotterell is a mirthmaking bird, so ridiculously mimical, that he is easily caught
(or rather catched himself) by his over-active imitation. As the fowler stretcheth
forth his arms and legs, going towards the bird, the bird extendeth his legs and
wings, approaching the fowler, till surprised in the net." But, he adds in his
humorous vein : " It is observed that the foolisher the fowl or fish, the finer the
flesh thereof." In Hone's " Every Day Book," i. 645, there is an anecdote told
of James I. and dotterel catching: " There is a tradition current here, that King
James I. was very fond of seeing dotterels taken ; and when he came to New-
market, used to accompany the bird-catchers to the Gogmagog Hills (Cambridge-
shire) and Moors for that purpose. It is said, a needy clergyman of Sawston,
very expert in dotterel-catching, attended the King; his Majesty was pleased
with his skill, and promised him a living : the clergyman waited some years, till,
concluding that the King had 'remembered to forget 'his promise, he went to
London and appeared at court, where, too, he was unnoticed and forgotten ; at

Notes. 249

length, approaching the King, and making the same signs as he was wont to do
when catching dotterels with the King near Cambridge, his Majesty exclaimed :
• Why, here is my reverend dotterel-catcher,' and instantly gave him the long-
delayed living.'' Clutterbuck {Hertfordshire, iii. 563) mentions that these birds
were in the reign of James I. met with in great abundance at Royston upon the
open downs by which the town was at that time surrounded, but that in his time
(1827) they had become very scarce in consequence of their inclosure. Mr. Selby
writes: "As to the story of the dotterel mimicking the actions of the fowler, it
without doubt arose from the motions that they as well as other birds usually
and most naturally make when roused from a state of repose, as is frequently
observed."

95. Page 64. Willughby (Ornithology, fol. 1678, p. 331) quoting Faber,
says : " They are wont in England to train up Cormorants to fishing. When
they carry them out of the rooms where they are kept to the fish-pools, they hood-
wink them, that they be not frightned by the way. When they are come to the
rivers, they take off their hoods, and having tied a leather thong round the lower
part of their necks that they may not swallow down the fish they catch, they
throw them into the river. They presently dive under water, and there for a
long time, with wonderful swiftness pursue the fish, and when they have caught
them, they arise presently to the top of the water, and pressing the fish lightly
with their bills, they swallow them, till each bird hath after this manner devoured
five or six fishes. Then their keepers call them to the fist, to which they readily
fly ; and little by little, one after another, vomit up all their fish, a little bruised
with the nip they gave them with their bills. When they have done fishing,
setting the birds on some high place, they loose the string from their necks,
leaving the passage to the stomach free and open ; and for their reward they throw
them part of their prey they have caught, to each perchance one or two fishes,

Parke, 1588, chap. 22, treats at some length of the 'pleasant and ingenious kinde
of fishing by cormorantes or sea ravens.' Sir George Staunton and Mr. Fortune
have written graphically on the same topic. In the " Calendar of State Papers,"
December 9, 1608, a letter of Mr. Chamberlain informs Dudley Carleton that
the King was welcomed to Thetford by three Cormorants on the church steeple.
In_ Devon's "Issues " are payments in 161 1, 161 2, to John Wood, keeper of his
Majesty's cormorants, of £30 * for bringing up and training of certain fowls called
cormorants, and making them fit for the use of fishing.' Wood was employed
likewise ' to travel for young cormorants, to be afterwards made fit for his Ma-
jesty's sport and recreation.' Fish ponds and houses were made in 161 8 for the
cormorants within the Vine Garden at Westminster. And in August, 1624,
Robert Wood was paid £98 8^. 6d. in satisfaction of the charge and loss sustained
by Luke Wood in his late travels to Venice with three cormorants, having been

K K

250 Notes.

stayed in his passage thither, and his cormorants taken from him by the Duke
of Savoy.

96. Page 64. Mr. Beaulieu, in a letter written on May 9th, alludes to " the
wofull and lamentable newes which we have had within these two dayes.'' [So
that the news of the assassination of Henry IV. reached London on the 7th.]
" Poor Mons r . de la Boderie hath been so afflicted here with this dolefull newes of
the King's death as that he can scarce speak for greif and sighing to any body. . . .
The King is not yet returned out of the countrey, but upon the summons of this
newes sent him by my Lord Treasurer is expected here this day." The effect
produced on King James when the sad intelligence was communicated to him in
the presence of the young Prince of Wirtemberg, was that he turned whiter than
his shirt, ' qu'il devint plus blanc que sa chemise.' (Letter of La Boderie, 24th
May, 1610, in Ambassades, torn. 5, p. 268.)

97. Page 64. Audley End, sometimes called Audley Inn, near Saffron Walden,
Essex, is the fine seat of Lord Braybrooke. It was erected in the reign of King
James I. by Thomas Howard, Earl of Suffolk, Lord Treasurer, who had inherited
the estate of the Lord Chancellor Sir Thomas Audley. The grounds are beautiful.
The mansion, originally much more extensive than at present, is said to have cost
at its erection £190,000. Sir Anthony Weldon asserts that " Audley End, that
famous and great structure, had its foundation of Spanish gold " — alluding to the
bribes so freely distributed by the Constable of Castile to the English courtiers to
influence a peace between the two kingdoms ; among them (he adds) not one
tasted in so large a proportion as the Countess of Suffolk. (Court and Character
of King James, izmo. 1650.) On one of James I's visits, he remarked that
the house was too large for a king, though perhaps very suitable for a Lord Trea-
surer. In the Privy Purse expenses of Prince Henry, (Rec. Off. Dom. lvii.)
under date of November 24, 1609, occurs the entry : " Given to the Workemen
at Audeley Inne at his highnes comand £20." Wurmsser, the Prince of Wir-
temberg's Secretary, alludes in a peculiar phrase to the eldest son of the Earl of
Suffolk being entitled Baron — "dont son filz se dit aisne Baron." This was Sir
Theophilus Howard, who had been summoned to the House of Lords in 1604
in his father's Barony of Howard de Walden. In 1 6 1 3 the Duke of Saxe-Weimar
went to see the "new Palace of Adeling" which he thought superior to all the
king's houses on account of its magnificent architecture. The gallery, which was
very long, was not then finished. He admired also the convenience of the stair-
cases. Audley End became a Royal Palace in 1669, having been conveyed to
Charles II ; but in 1701 it was reconveyed to Henry, fifth Earl of Suffolk. The
Braybrookes became possessed of it in 1802. The late Lord Braybrooke pub-
lished in 1836 a handsome quarto volume descriptive of his splendid mansion and
of Saffron Walden. Winstanley's engravings of Audley End in the reign of
Charles II. are scarce and valued, so much so that a copy at a recent sale fetched
the high price of £34 \os.

98. Page 65. Don Pedro de Zuniga was the returning Spanish Ambassador.

Notes. 251

He had been in this country several years, having been the first ' Lieger ' or resi-
dent Ambassador sent to England after the conclusion of the distasteful peace with
Spain. He came over in the suite of the Earl of Nottingham (famous old Charles
Howard), on that nobleman's return from Spain in July, 1605, Don Pedro having
(as Treswell states) " endured much sickness at sea." He received his first audi-
ence at Whitehall on Sunday, July 14th. During his residence in London, he
was regarded with much suspicion, owing to the protection he afforded to the
Jesuits and Catholics who were ever plotting some mischief. He came, moreover,
at an unfortunate time, when the discovery of the powder plot roused the popular
exasperation against those of his own nation and religion. In 1606 a watch was
set upon his house to intercept such English as should resort thither to mass. (Win-
wood, vol. ii. p. 273.) The historian Davila, a most orthodox Catholic Castilian,
and most bitter in his remarks against the perfidious English Lutherans, and par-
ticularly against that * monstrous infernal Queen Elizabeth by name ' (in Spanish
Isabella, see Note 128), calls Don Pedro a very father to the English Catholics ;
he also informs us that this caballero indignantly refused to receive from King James
(unceremoniously alluded to as " he of England '' — el de Inglaterrd) a copy of his
book " The Apologie for the Oath of Allegiance," 1609, which the royal author
intended as a present to his most Catholic Majesty the King of Spain. (See Davila's
Felipe 111, printed in Salazar's Monarquia de Espana, 1771 , iii. 107.) Among
others the Ambassador afforded protection and shelter in his house in Barbican to
a female of his own country named Dona Luisa Caravajal, who came over about
the same time as himself to London, * that confused and miserable Babylon '
(quella confusa y miserable Babiliona), for the purpose of aiding and abetting Father
Walpole in the conversion of the obstinate English heretics. This poor woman,
who was ' ever sailing in a bitter sea of tribulation,' and whose life has been
written in Spanish by Luis Munoz (4-to. Madrid, 1632) died in London, January,
1614, a ^ ter having been nine years in England, and was buried at the expense of
Count Gondomar. (See also Lewis Owen's Running Register, /(.to. 1626, p.
65.) Munoz gives a glowing character of Don P. de Zuiiiga ; he says (p. 147):
" His departure was felt both by Catholics and heretics ; they equally loved him,"
&c. Mr. Cottington writes from Madrid, 19th October, 1610: "Don Pedro
de Zuniga is made Cavallerizo primero del Rey [principal Equerry to the King],
a great office, but hath absolutely forgotten that ever he was in England. He
cannot endure the sight of an Englishman." (Winwood, iii. 229.) For his great
services, he was created Marquis de Flores de Avila, in April, 161 2, and in May
following he was despatched again to England. (Cabrera, Relaciones de Espana,
1599-1614, 4». Madrid, 1857.) A letter of George Calvert, Esq., to Sir
Thomas Edmondes, of August 1st (Birch's Historical Letters, Add. MS. 4176),
relates the following amusing anecdote respecting him : " The Ambassador, Don
Pedro de Zuniga, is yet here [in London], no man knows why, for he hath taken
his leave of the King. But to shew that he is unwelcome, as he was riding in his
carosse with his six mules over Holborne Bridge the other day, with his great

252 Notes.

lethugador about his neck and leaning upon his elbow on the side of the carosse,
comes a fellow by him on horseback ; and whether de guet-apens, or otherwise,
I cannot tell, but he snatches the Ambassador's hat off his head, which had a rich
jewell in it, and rides away with it up the street as fast as he could, the people
going on and laughing at it. The fellow was not lighted on again, for anything
I hear ; but I am sorry they have so just an advantage against us to say we are
barbarous in our city of London." We meet with Don Pedro again in Spain in
1623, when he was deputed by Philip IV. to present in his name to Prince
Charles (Charles I.) at Madrid, the royal and princely gifts, consisting of fifty-four
horses, with costly furniture and trappings, pistols, swords, and daggers set with
diamonds, &c. And the Prince gave the * Marquesse of Flores ' a rare jewel of
diamonds. (Mendoza, The Joyfull Returne of Prince Charles from Spaine,
1623.)

99. Page 65. Don Alonso de Velasco, Conde de la Ribilla, succeeded Pedro
de Zuniga as Ambassador in 1610. He had also visited England six years before
when accompanying his relation the Constable of Castile, who had the manage-
ment of the negotiation for a peace with Spain. In a letter from Mr. Francis
Cottington, dated Madrid, January 7th, 1609-10 {Winwood, iii. 103), it is said:
" Don Alonso de Velasco hath this morning begun his journey for England, there
to succeed Don Pedro de Cuniga, having in his company divers fayre ladies, and
two proper gentlemen, his sons. By this Extraordinary he received letters from
a gentleman of his own appellido (one Don Luys as I take yt) remayning in your
court, which very violently disswaded him from carrying over these ladies ; say-
ing that in England they should fynd a barbarous people, and so far from ordinary
courtesy as the ladies should run much hazard to be evil entreated ; and amongst
others, alledged the example of Don Pedro now in England, who (he says) can't
shew his face in the City for fear of stones and dirt to be thrown at him. (See also
Note 13.) With this was Don Alonso so much trobled, as he sent for me and
shewed me all." And Mr. Trumbull, writing from Antwerp, 27th March,
1610 (O. S.), says : " Don Alonco de Velasco arrived here the last week with a
great traine of servants and many women in his company. He is resolved pre-
sently to begin his journey towards England for the relieving of Don Pedro de
Cuniga, who is most desirous to be at home." {Winwood, iii. 143.) This Am-
bassador made himself very busy in the abortive attempt to negotiate a match be-
tween the Prince of Wales and the Infanta of Spain. (See Birch's Prince Henry,
p. 532, &c.) The famous Gondomar, called by Ben Jonson "Spain's Ambas-
sador, old ^Dsop Gundomar," succeeded Velasco in 161 3.

100. Page 65. Robert Rich succeeded his father, as third Lord Rich, in
1 58 1, and was with the Ear] of Essex at Cadiz. He was created Earl of War-
wick, August, 161 8, and died in March following.

101. Page 65. Sir David Murray, Knight, was Gentleman of the Bed-
chamber to Prince Henry ; in December, 1 610, he was appointed Groom of the
Stole. He attended the young Prince during his illness with great assiduity and

Notes.

2 53

kindness, and Cornwallis remarks, that he was the only man in whom the Prince
had put choice trust. At the funeral of his beloved young master, he sat within
the chariot, at the feet of the corpse, with its representation in wax-work laid on
the coffin. (See Birch's Life of Prince Henry s Cal. of State Papers.) His Poems
were reprinted for the Bannatyne Club in 1823. A Book containing the Privy
Purse Expenses of Prince Henry, kept by Sir David Murray, from Michaelmas,
1609, to Michaelmas, 1 6 10, is in the Public Record Office {Bom. vol. lvii. No. 87).
102. Page 65. Monsieur St. Anthoine was Prince Henry's riding-master, or
equerry. He was an excellent horseman, and was sent over by Henry IV, in
the suite of the Duke of Sully, when that Ambassador came to congratulate James
on his accession to the crown of England in 1603. The copy of the French
King's letter, introducing St. Anthoine into the service of James, is in the British
Museum. (Harl. MS. 1760, fo. 24.) The equerry is here spoken of as " ung
escuier choisy de ma main pour ayder a monter a cheval mon cher nepveu vostre
filz." Sully, in his Memoirs (iii. 143), says : " I made a present in the name of
his Most Christian Majesty to the King of England, of six beautiful horses, richly
caparisoned, and the Sieur de S. Anthoine as riding-master." Sully also presented
Prince Henry with a " lance and a helmet of gold, enriched with diamonds ;
together with a fencing-master, and a vaulter or tumbler." St. Anthoine was
usually called in England " St. Anthony the rider." It was he who communi-
cated to the French Ambassador, La Boderie, the young Prince's desire for a
" suit of armour well gilt and enamelled, with pistols and sword." (Birch's Life,
pp.68, 69.) The beautiful suit of armour which was afterwards sent by Henry IV.
is now in the Tower. In the Privy Purse Expenses of Prince Henry (Rec. Off.
Dom. lvii.), under date of October 11, 1609, is an entry, "To Sant Anthoyne,
when he went to Redding to bring home the colds at his Highnes command, £5."
The Marquis of Newcastle, who was famed for his line horsemanship, was sent
by his father for instruction " to the Mewse, to Mons. Antoine, who was then
accounted the best Master in that Art." [Life, by the Duchess, 1667, p. 142.)
On the death of Prince Henry in 1 61 2, the French equerry led a mourning
horse — the " cheval de deuil," — in the funeral procession of his late young
master. He then became equerry to Prince (and subsequently King) Charles, in
whose well-known magnificent equestrian portrait by Vandyke he is represented
holding the King's helmet. This subject was repeated many times by the great
painter, with certain variations of treatment. It was engraved by P. Lombart,
who, when Cromwell came into power, substituted the head of the Protector for
that of Charles I. The equerry was also obliterated, and the figure of a youth
bearing a helmet introduced. In Walpole's " Anecdotes of Painting," an addi-
tional epithet or dignity of" Chevalier d'Epernon" has been given to St. Anthoine,
which has been adopted by Mrs. Jameson ; and in the Index to the Catalogue of
James IPs Pictures, which was drawn up by Walpole who edited the work (4to.
London, 1 758), Mons. St. Anthoine is exalted into a " Duke d'Espernon," which
has been copied by Dallaway and others. But there is in reality no foundation

254 Notes.

for this, for in the original Manuscript of James II's Pictures {Harl. MS. 1890,
fol. 76 b ), the picture at Hampton Court is entered thus: " King Charles the
first on horseback ; Mons r . St. Antwaine by him." He has also been termed
" Chevalier d'Eperon," which rendering, indeed, might pass, for a Knight of the
Spur he assuredly was. Granger has erred in stating that St. Anthoine was sent
with six horses as a present to Charles I ; while Mrs. Jameson is wrong in the
assertion that Louis XIII. was the donor, instead of Henry IV. Several books
on Horsemanship, which once belonged to Prince Henry, are in the British
Museum ; they are in very fine bindings, and have his initials, badge, &c.
impressed on the covers. The riding-masters of Queen Elizabeth's reign were
usually Italians.

103. Page 65. " Mr. Levinus" was Levinus Munck. He was a native of
Brabant, in Flanders, and was Secretary to the Lord Treasurer Cecil, Earl of
Salisbury, having been naturalized by Act of Parliament, 1 James I, 1603. He
held the office of Clerk of the Signet from this date till his death in 1623. In
1605 he took the examination ofGuido Fawkes, and of other " powder-traitors,"
as the King called them. In 1609, James I. appointed him, in conjunction with
Thomas Wilson (afterwards knighted), Keeper and Registrar of Papers and
Records — " to reduce all such into a set form of Library, in some convenient
place within our palace of Whitehall," with the " wages and fee of 3/. \d. by the
day, to be equally divided betwixt them;" and with a power of removal from the
office, by Robert, Earl of Salisbury. Munck was nominated, in 1 61 z, one of the
Commissioners to wait upon the Princess Elizabeth to Heidelberg, and to settle
her jointure. He died May 27, 1623, worth, it is said, £40,000. A few of his
Letters are printed in Winwood's Memorials. (Winwood s Cal. of State Papers;
Devon's Issues, p. 307. Foreign Protestants, c3V. resident in England, p. 82.)

104. Page 65. Sir Thomas Edmondes was a diplomatist of great abilities.
In 1592 he was appointed Ambassador to France, with the modest salary of 20s.
a day. In 1596 he was made Secretary to Queen Elizabeth for the French
tongue. He was knighted by James I. in 1603, and resided at the Court of
Brussels from 1605 to 1609. He was sent Ambassador to France, 16 10, after
the murder of Henry IV, and remained there till 161 6; on his return he was
appointed Treasurer of the Household. His MS. State Papers were largely used
by Dr. Birch, in his " Historical View of the Negotiations between the Courts of
England, France, and Brussels, from 1592 to 1617." He died, at an advanced
age, in 1639.

105. Page 66. The following character of Anne of Denmark is from the pen of
Correr, the Venetian Ambassador at this time {Relation d'Jng/eterre,p.yS): "The
Queen, named Anne, sister of the King of Denmark, is a very affable Princess, of a
lively humour, rather good looking, and still more gracious ; she has been brought
up in the Lutheran religion, which is professed in Denmark. The King, while in
Scotland, did all in his power to oblige her to embrace his religion, and several other
persons spoke to her of Catholicism, for which she has always evinced, and still

Notes.

2 55

evinces, a particular inclination, whence the report is that she is a Catholic, and
in fact I am sure that if she were at liberty, she would declare herself for our
religion ; but knowing the wishes of the King to be quite contrary, and that she
would be obliged to live continually in anxiety and danger, she accommodates
herself to the time and to necessity ; so that she seeks only to divert herself, and
passionately loves dancing and entertainments. This Princess is very prudent and has
an excellent judgment; she is perfectly conversant with all the discords of the State,
but she does not at all participate in them, although many imagine that being
Intensely loved by the King, she must take the greater part in them ; but as this
Princess is not strong, nor of a nature fit for work, but being young and seeing
that those who govern are greatly interested and wish not to be interfered with, she
shows herself to be not solicitous about it — hence it happens that she does not at all
intermeddle unless to ask a favour for some one ; this it is which makes the people
love, cherish, and respect her. She is full of sweetness and kindness towards
those who know how to fall in with her humour, but on the other hand she is ter-
rible, proud and intolerable towards those whom she dislikes. She has three
sisters; one married to the Duke of Saxony, another to the Duke of Brunswick,
and the third to the Duke of Holsace, and by this means the King is allied and
related to most of the Princes of Germany." (See also Note 147.)

106. Page 66. Sir Robert Sidney, of Penshurst, was younger brother of Sir
Philip. He served valiantly in the Netherlands under his uncle, Robert Dudley,
Earl of Leicester, and was knighted for his gallant behaviour at the battle of
Zutphen, 1586. In 1588, Queen Elizabeth appointed him Governor of Flushing,
his patent for this office being renewed under her successor. In May, 1603, he
was made Baron Sidney of Penshurst, and became Lord Chamberlain to Queen
Anne of Denmark. In 1605 he was created Viscount L'Isle. In May, 1616,
the King commissioned him as Governor of Flushing (Vlishing), in his name to
render and yield up the town to the States of the United Provinces, upon the
surrender of which he received in recompense a pension of £ I zoo per annum
during his life. In July of the same year he was installed Knight of the Garter,
and in 16 1 8 advanced to the dignity of Earl of Leicester. He died July 13,
1626, and was buried at Penshurst. (Collins' Sydney Papers; Somen' Tracts,
ii. 399.)

107. Page 66. In the MS. the names appear as "Mr. Spencer Digby
Angsrietter," from which we may suppose that three names are intended. The
first, probably, was Sir Richard Spencer, who was Commissioner to Holland,
with Win wood, in 1607; the second may be Sir John Digby, afterwards Earl
of Bristol, employed in several embassies, but chiefly to Spain ; and the third, Sir
Robert Anstruther, Chamberlain to the King, a man particularly acceptable to
Germans, being very familiar with their language and country.

108. Page 66. Sir James Sandilands was a Scotch knight, who in 1604 held
the office of Gentleman Usher of the Privy Chamber, for which he received £30
per annum for life. (Cal. of State Papers, James I.) In the following year the

256 Notes.

Queen and Prince Henry were sponsors at the christening of Sir James " San-
delyn's" child, to whom they made presents of cups of silver gilt. Sir James San-
dilands (called also "Sandelo") was appointed " Maistre d'hostel" to the Princess
Elizabeth, at her marriage in 161 3. He received various free gifts from the
Exchequer in 1606, 7, 14, 16, 17. (See Nichols' Prog, of James I.) Lord Her-
bert of Cherbury mentions having met in Languedoc " an old Scotch knight
Sandelands," who borrowed his horses as far as Heidelberg. According to
Lysons (Environs), Sir James "Sandalen" was buried at Greenwich, June 7, 1 61 8.

109. Page 66. Cobham Hall was the baronial residence of the potent Lords
of Cobham, to whose fame and exploits as statesmen and as warriors the mag-
nificent assemblage of monumental brasses in the adjacent village church — the
finest series on one floor in the kingdom — sufficiently testify. The Lord Cobham,
whose absence the German prince regretted, was Henry Brooke, who had been
condemned to death for participation in the alleged Raleigh conspiracy, but was
reprieved on the scaffold. He passed the remainder of a wretched existence
in imprisonment in the Tower, where he died in 1619. Sir Walter Raleigh, in
his defence on his trial at Winchester, November 17th, 1603, contemptuously
spoke of my Lord Cobham, as an " unworthy, base, silly, simple, poor soul."

Cobham Hall, now the seat of the Earl of Darnley, was considerably enlarged,
or in great part rebuilt, by Sir William Brooke, seventh Lord Cobham, during the
reign of Queen Elizabeth, who was entertained there by that nobleman in the first
year of her reign, 1559. The centre wing of the mansion was afterwards added
by Inigo Jones. It contains a noble gallery of paintings. The reception and
entertainment of the Queen has been related by Francis Thynne, a Kentish man
who was present, in the Life of the then noble owner of Cobham Hall, printed
in Holinshed's Chronicle, 1587, iii. p. 1510, which has escaped the researches of
Nichols, in his " Progresses " of the Queen. Thynne notes as follows : " In
which first yeare of hir Maiestie's reigne, falling in the yeare 1559, this Lord did
most honorablie interteine the Queene with hir traine, at his house of Cobham
Hall, with sumptuous fare and manie delights of rare invention. Amongst which
one comming now to mind, which I then being yoong beheld, urgeth me forward
in the setting downe thereof: which was, a banketing house made for hir Maiestie
in Cobham Parke, with a goodlie gallerie thereunto, composed all of greene, with
severall devises of knotted flowers, supported on each side with a faire row of
hawthorne trees, which nature seemed to have planted there of purpose in
summer time to welcome hir Maiestie, and to honor their Lord and maister. But
because the beautie and maiestie, with the rare devise thereof cannot be so well
conceived by pen, as the same was artificiallie made, unlesse the reder might at
one instant behold also the artificiall situation of the place, I thinke it better
to passe the rest in silence, than not delivering it in such grace as it meriteth.
. . . Wherefore leaving the maner thereof, I will set downe certeine verses
made by doctor Haddon, and placed in the forefront of the same banketting
house, which doo not onlie shew the joifull welcome of hir Maiestie to this

Notes. 257

honorable lord, but also to the whole countrie of Kent, which verses were these
following : —

" ' Regia progenies, clari stirps inclyta Bruti,

Grata venis populis Elisabetha tuis :
Quocunque aspicias plausus et gaudia cernis,

Laetatur vultu foemina virque tuo:
Imberbes pueri, cani, tenerasque puells,

Oinnis ad aspectum turba profusa ruunt.
Nos te Reginam, tu nos agnosce clientes,

Sic tibi, sic nobis, sic bona cuncta fluent.' "

Thynne, who was a poet as well as an historian and antiquary, has tried his
hand at versifying this inscription in his MS. Memoirs of the Cobhams, in the
British Museum : —

" The kinglye progenye and stocke of Brutes most famous race,
Elizabethe most welcome is to people of this place.
Whiche waye thow casts thyne eye thow mirthe and joye doest see,
For joyfull of thy princelye face both menne and wemen bee.
The berdlesse boyes, the hoored age, the maydes of tender yeares,
And trope confus'd flockes to thy sight, in which their love apperes.
We knowledge thee oure Quene, thy subjectes true us knowe,
So unto thee, so unto us, all wished good shall flowe."

In the Add. MS. 5751 (Brit. Mus.), is a List of Plate borrowed by Sir Wil-
liam Brooke, Lord Cobham, of John Harris, goldsmith, when Sir Walter Raleigh
visited Cobham Hall. Thynne, speaking further of Sir William Brooke, writes :
" Besides which, overpassing his goodlie buildings at the Blacke friers in London,
1582, and since that, the statelie augmenting of his house at Cobham Hall, with
the rare garden there, in which no varietie of strange flowers and trees doo want,
which praise or price maie obteine from the furthest part of Europe or from other
strange countries, whereby it is not inferior to the garden of Semiramis, &c."

His lordship was evidently preparing to build on a large scale in 1595, as
appears from an original Warrant on parchment in the British Museum ; it is
signed by Henry IV. of France, and is dated November 12th, and gives permis-
sion to the Lord Cobham to transport from Caen into England 200 tons of stone
for building — " deux cent tonneaux de pierre prof re a bastir." Probably this
stone was used for his new College at Cobham, which his lordship did not live
to see completed, having died in March, 1596. To this nobleman, William
Harrison dedicated his "Description of Britain;" and Thomas Newton his
translation of Lemnius' "Touchstone of Complexions." (See ante, p. 77.)

In July, 1596, Cobham Hall was visited by the young Prince of Anhalt, who
sings of it in the following strain : —

L L

258 Notes.

" Wir fiigten uns zu fuss in Baron Combams Haus
Des andern tages friih, von dannen wider aus
Und bin gen Gravesend. Es war gar viel zusehen
In Combams haus an zierd : Im Mahrstall' hett 'er stehen
Viel rosse schoner art, die hielt er auf der streu,
Es war bey ihm die Pracht, gewonlich, und nicht neu." —

(Furst Ludzvigi zu Anhalt-Kohten Reisebeschreibung.)

Having enjoyed a sight of Rochester, and of the ships of war riding there, the
Prince and companions set out towards Gravesend. " Early on the following
morning (he says, as above) we walked to Baron Combam's house. There was
plenty of ornament to be seen in Combam's house. And in the stable, which was
well littered with straw, there were standing many fine horses. For with him
splendour was customary and not occasional."

On July 3rd, 1604, James I. went from Greenwich to Cobham, and on the
4th proceeded to Chatham, to inspect the ships there. Beaumont, the French
ambassador in London, communicated this intelligence to his royal master,
Henry IV, together with the following anecdote : " The King (he writes) took
so little notice of his fleet at Chatham, that not only the seamen, but likewise
persons of all ranks were much offended, and said that he loved stags better than
ships, and the sound of hunting-horns more than that of cannon." {Letter of
July 18, 1604.) On Wednesday, June 15, 1625, Charles I. and his French
bride, Henrietta Maria, rode from Canterbury to Cobham Hall, all the highways
being strewed with roses and all manner of sweet flowers. On the next day they
left Cobham, and, returning to Rochester, probably as a mark of respect to the
city, proceeded on their joyful route towards London.

Sir Egerton Brydges (Peers of England, temp. James I, p. 272), writes thus of
the seat of the Cobhams: " I have rambled over this large mansion with many
emotions of regret at the hard fate of the Cobhams, whose antient glories were
surely too severely punished with ruin and extinction, for the doubtful crimes of
one weak man. With them, if I recollect, the antient nobility of Kent expired,
and the descendants of feudal chiefs could no longer be found to display the
trophies of their ancestors in the Baronial Hall."

no. Page 66. The Dukes of Pomerania, here mentioned, were two young
Princes, the sons of Bogislaus XIII : their names George and Ulrich, the former
born 1582, the latter 1589. They had been making the "grand tour," and
were in Paris on Easter Day, 1610, when they saw Henry IV. "touch" no less
than 400 scrofulous persons. They afterwards witnessed the splendid ceremonial
of the Coronation of Queen Marie de' Medici, at St. Denis. On the following
day, May 14th [4th O. S.], grief, consternation, and awe took the place of
rejoicings, owing to the atrocious murder of the French king by Ravaillac.
The commotion caused by this event hurried away the brothers, and they
were glad, as many a foreigner has been since, to flee to the peaceful and

Notes.

259

hospitable shores of old England — a very pleasant refuge in time of trouble.
Here they spent two months of enjoyment, extending their tour into Scotland.
They were received with great honour by King James and his son Henry ; were
present at the imposing ceremony of the creation of the young Prince of Wales
in the beginning of June, at the " Parliament House" at Westminster, and joined
in the festivities which ensued, of masques, shows, and running at the ring ; in
the last of which the Pomeranian Princes took part, through the introduction of
Prince Frederick Ulric, of Brunswick. They returned to their fatherland in the
middle of August, 1610. (Micraelius, Pommerische Jabr-Gescbicbten, 1723:
buch iv. p. 24 )

ill. Page 70. Fynes Moryson [Itin. 1617, pt. iii. p. 150) says: "The
Italian Sansovine is much deceived, writing, that in generall the English eate and
cover the table at least foure times in the day ; for howsoever those that journey,
and some sickly men staying at home, may perhaps take a small breakfast, yet in
generall the English eate but two meales (of dinner and supper) each day, and I
could never see him that useth to eate foure times in the day." Moryson also
informs us that " the English Cookes, in comparison with other nations, are
most commended for roasted meates." Hentzner remarks (see ante, p. no) that
the English are more polite in eating than the French, consuming less bread, but
more meat, which they roast in perfection.

112. Page 73. Peacham (Compleat Gentleman, l6zz, p. 204), speaking of
the French, our reputed pioneers of fashion, says : " Every two yeere their
fashion [of apparel] altereth."

113. Page 87. The "Device of the Pageant borne before Woolstone Dixi,
Lord Maior of the Citie of London," October 29, 1585, (4to. Lond. Edward
Allde, 1585) was written by George Peele, and is the earliest printed description
of a Lord Mayor's Pageant known to exist. A copy bought for the Guildhall
Library, consisting of four leaves only, cost £20. October 29th was the regular
Lord Mayor's day until the alteration of the style in 1752.

1 14. Page 88. Johann Valentin Andreae was a native of Herrenberg, in Wir-
temberg (1586-1654). In his Autobiography he says that as early as 1602 and
1603, he tried his hand at two comedies, " Esther" and "Hyacinth," which he
with juvenile temerity imitated from the English actors. " Schon in den J. 1602
und 1603 fieng ich, zur Uebung meiner Talente, an, Aufsatze zu verfassen. Die
ersten Versuche waren wohl Esther und Hyacinth, zwey Komodien, die ich mit
jugendlicher Kiihnheit den Englischen Schauspielern nachbildete." {Selbstbio-
grapbie Andreas, ubers. von Prof. Seybold, 1799, p. 15.) It is shown in our
Introduction that a company of English players performed at Stuttgart in 1597.

115. Page 89. "Den 27 und 28 Hornung [February] hielten Engelander
Comcedien allhier auff dem Saltz-Stadel, gab ein Person 4 kr."— Each person
paid 4 kreutzers=ii</. (Schorer's Memminger Cbronick, 1660, p. 115.)

116. Page 89. This was evidently an exaggerated report of some capture by
Drake, who with Frobisher had sailed from Plymouth with a powerful fleet on

260 Notes.

September 14th, 1585, two days after Kiechel's arrival in London. Drake bent
his course to the Spanish coast, intending afterwards to visit the West Indies,
with a view, as he used to term it, of " singeing the King of Spain's beard."
About the beginning of October, after making a few insignificant prizes, a boat was
captured near Vigo, laden with the " principall Church stuffe " of the high Church
of that place, " where also was their great Crosse of silver of very faire embossed
worke, and double gilt all over, having cost them a great masse of money. They
complained to have lost in all kind of goods above thirtie thousand duckets in this
place." While the fleet was before Bayona and Vigo, the Governor of Galicia,
Pedro Bermudez, together with Don Diego Sarmiento de Acuiia (afterwards well-
knuwn in England as Count Gondomar), made great show of resistance, which
led to a parley taking place in boats upon the water, when we are told that " that
English pirate Francisco Draques " (el cosario Ingles Francisco Draques} took
Don Diego (then a captain, 18 years of age) by the hand to pass into his own
boat. (See Ant. de Herrera, Historia del Mundo, 161 2, iii. pp. 11, &c. and
Lopez de Haro, Nobiliario de Espana, l6zz, i. p. 236.) Drake then made his way
to the Canaries and the Cape de Verde Islands, and afterwards took and plundered
Santiago, St. Domingo, and Carthagena, — sailed thence to Virginia, and brought
back with him to England Raleigh's colonists. They were the first, it is said, to
introduce tobacco into this country. (Camden's Annates, 1625, bk. 3, p. 107.)
The Expedition returned in July, 1586, having lost about 750 out of 2300 men.
The booty was estimated at £60,000. There is a narrative of this famous West
Indian voyage by Thomas Cates, which was printed in 1589, and afterwards in-
serted in Hakluyt's Collection, iii. 534, &c. A different account is contained
in a MS. in the British Museum (Roy. 7. C. xvi.) There is also a black-letter
Poem on Drake's Exploits at St. Domingo and Carthagena, penned by Thomas
Greepe, who describes himself as "a rude countriman, brought uppe manie yeeres
in Husbandrie." It was printed in 1587, and is very rare.

1 1 7. Page 90. The foreigners have revealed to us some very curious and
rather startling peculiarities of the custom of kissing as practised by our ancestors.
Thus as early as 1466, a Bohemian nobleman, named Leo von Rozmital, visited
England, and in the Journal of his Travel (1577) it is noted that "it is the cus-
tom there, that on the arrival of a distinguished stranger from foreign' parts, maids
and matrons go to the inn and welcome him with gifts. Another custom is
observed there, which is when guests arrive at an inn, the hostess with all her
family go out to meet and receive them ; and the guests are required to kiss them
all (' quam, cseterosque omnes deosculari necesse est'), and this among the English
was the same as shaking hands among other nations." Erasmus, in 1499, wrote
a Latin letter from England to his friend Fausto Andrelini, an Italian poet, ex-
horting him in a strain of playful levity to think no more of his gout, but to be-
take himself to England ; for (he remarks) " here are girls with angels' faces, so
kind and obliging, that you would far prefer them to all your Muses. Besides,
there is a custom here never to be sufficiently commended. Wherever you come,

Notes. 261

you are received with a kiss by all ; when you take your leave, you are dismissed
with kisses ; you return, kisses are repeated. They come to visit you, kisses again ;
they leave you, you kiss them all round. Should they meet you anywhere, kisses
in abundance: in fine, wherever you move, there is nothing but kisses." (Epistola,
fol. Basil. 1558, p. 223.) In 1527, Cardinal Wolsey was appointed Ambassador
Extraordinary to France. He was accompanied by George Cavendish, his gen-
tleman-usher, who wrote a Life of the Cardinal. Cavendish had gone forward
to prepare his lord's lodging. He says : " And I being there [at the Sire de
Crequi's Castle at Moreuil, about twelve miles from Amiens] tarrying a while, my
lady Madame Crokey issued out of her chamber into her dining chamber, where
I attended her comming, who received me very gently like her noble estate,
having a traine of twelve gentlewomen. And when she and her traine was come
all out, she saide unto me, ' For as much,' quoth she, ' as ye be an Englishman,
whose custome is to kisse all ladies and gentlemen [" gentlewomen," in Singer's
edit.] in your country without offense, although it is not soe here with us in this
realme, yet I will be so bould as kisse you, and so ye shall doe all my maides.'
By meanes whereof I kissed her and all her maides." (Cavendish's Life of Wol-
sey, edit. Holmes, 4to. 1852, p. 94.) In the narrative of the visit of the Spanish
nobleman, the Duke de Najera, in 1543-4, we are told that "after the dancing
was finished (which lasted several hours), the Queen entered again into her
chamber, having previously called one of the noblemen who spoke Spanish, to
offer in her name some presents to the Duke, who again kissed her hand ; and on
his requesting the same favour of the Princess Mary, she would by no means per-
mit it, but offered him her lips, and the Duke saluted her, and did the same to
all the other ladies." (Archaologia, vol. 23.) A Greek traveller, Nicander
Nucius, came to England in 1 545, and remarks : " They display great simplicity
and absence of jealousy in their usages towards females. For not only do those
who are of the same family and household kiss them on the mouth with saluta-
tions and embraces, but even those too who have never seen them. And to them-
selves this appears by no means indecent." (Travels of Nic. Nucius, Cam-
den Soc. 1 841, p. 10.) Again, when the Constable of Castile appeared at the
court of Whitehall on Saturday afternoon, August 1 8th, 1604, after kissing her
Majesty's hands, he requested permission to salute the ladies of honour (twenty in
number, standing in a row, and beautiful exceedingly), according to the custom
of the country, and any neglect of which is taken as an affront. Whereupon the
Queen having given him leave, his Excellency complied with the custom, much to
the satisfaction of the ladies. (' Y besando las manos de su M d ., pidio el Condestable
licencia para besar las Damas al uso de aquellas provincias, de que se agravian
quando ay algun descuydo. Y dandosela su M d ., cumplio con el uso, y gusto de
las Damas.') — Relacion de la Jornada del Exc m °- Condestable de Castilla, 4to.
1604, p. 34. In Shakespeare's " Henry VIII," at the Cardinal's banquet, the
King says to Anne Bullen, —

262 Notes,

-" Sweetheart,

I were unmannerly to take you out,
And not to kiss you."

In dancing it appears to have been the customary fee of a lady's partner. A fur-
ther illustration of the custom may be seen ante, Note 72. Foreigners of the
male sex, and especially Frenchmen, are in the more frequent habit of kissing
each other, and probably not the ladies. M. Misson, a Frenchman who travelled
in England about 1697, says, " The people of England, when they meet, never
salute one another, otherwise than by giving one another their hands, and shaking
them heartily ; they no more dream of pulling off their hats, than the women do
of pulling off their headcloths." (Travels in England. Eng. tr. 1719, p. 283.)
118. Page 104. The colour of Queen Elizabeth's hair is expressed by
Hentzner by *' Crinem fulvum." Baret gives the following meanings, as applied
to the colour of the hair : ' A deepe yellowe like gold or copper — -fulvuss' ' a bright
yellowe like a womans haire — -flavus ;' ' light auborne — subflavus / * yellowe haire
like gold — capillirutuli i ' tawnie colour — Bceticus,sive Hispanus color.' (Baret's
Alvearie, or quadruple Dictionarie, 1 5 80 ) In a little book by Sir Hugh Piatt,
entitled "Delightes for Ladies to adorne their persons," &c. circa 1602, is a
receipt to ' make haire of a faire yellowe or golden colour j' this being considered an
especial mark of female beauty. To attain which the Knight recommends his
fair friends to take " the last water that is drawne from honie, being of a deepe red
colour, which performeth the same excellently, but the same bath a strong smell,
and therefore must be sweetened with some aromaticall body." Sir James Mel-
ville, in his " Memoirs," p. 123, speaking of his interview with Queen Elizabeth
in 1564, says: " Hir hair was reder then yellow, curlit apparantly of nature.
Then sche entrit to dicern what kynd of coulour of hair was reputed best, and
inquyred whither the-Quenis [Mary, Q^ of Scots] or hirswas best, and quhilk of
them twa was fairest. I said, the fairnes of them baith was not ther worst fakes.
Bot sche was ernest with me to declaire quhilk of them I thocht fairest. I said,
sche was the fairest Quen in England, and ours the fairest Quen in Scotland."
The same day, after dinner, Lord Hunsdon drew him into a quiet gallery to hear
the Queen play upon the virginals. She discovered his retreat, and came forward
and pretended to strike him. " Then sche asked whither the Quen or sche played
best. In that I gaif hir the prayse. Sche said my Frenche was gud ; and sperit
gif I culd speak Italen, quhilk sche spak raisonable Weill. Then sche spak to me
in Dutche [i. e. German], bot it was not gud." The Queen then gave a lively
display of her proficiency in dancing; this scene is related with admirable naivete
by the Scotch Ambassador.

There is in the Town Hall at Dover a very curious portrait of the Queen, ap-
parently done about this time (1598). She is in the height of her charms and
adornments, and seems to wear the very bright auburn wig .noticed by Hentzner.
This picture has been engraved for Dr. Dibdin's intended History of Dover,

Notes. 263

although never published. (See Note 2.) Two old portraits, seemingly genuine, of
Elizabeth, are in the large Zoological Gallery, British Museum. One, assigned to
Zucchero, was given by the Earl of Macclesfield in 1760; the other, a superior
and larger painting on panel, is dated 1567, and was presented by Lord Cardross
in 1765 ; in this the Queen is represented in a very elaborate dress — in both her hair
appears of an auburn colour. Among the Musgrave MS. Warrants in the British
Museum, is one dated "Greenwich, 19th April, 1602," and signed by her Ma-
jesty, ordering payment " to Dorothey Speckarde, our silkewoman, for six heades
of heare, twelve yerdes of heare curie, one hundred devises made of heare."

In the Merchant of Venice (act iii. sc. 2 — edit, folio 1623), on the text of the
world being deceived with ornament, Shakespeare satirizes the then fashionable
custom of wearing wigs in this country : —

•' Looke on beautie,

And you shall see 'tis purchast by the weight,

Which therein workes a miracle in nature,

Making them lightest that weare most of it :

So are those crisped snakie golden locks

Which makes such wanton gambols with the winde

Upon supposed fairenesse, often knowne

To be the dowrie of a second head,

The skull that bred them in the Sepulcher," &c.

Again, in The Two Gentlemen of Verona, iv. 4, Julia says : —
" Her haire is Aburne, mine is perfect Yellow;
If that be all the difference in his loue,
He get me such a coulour'd Perrywig."

119. Page 104. On Hentzner's allusion to the Luneburg Golden Table,
Walpole, his editor, remarks : " At this distance of time it is difficult to say what
this was." We shall beg, however, to introduce a note on the subject. The
Luneburg Golden Table was kept in the Church of St. Michael at Luneburg.
The gold and jewels of which it was composed are said to have been obtained
from the immense spoils taken from the Saracens by the Emperor Otho II. in
the loth century, when he defeated them in the Neapolitan provinces. This
precious object is fully described in a German work, entitled " Denkwiirdiger und
niitzlicher Antiquarius des Elb-Stroms," 1741, p. 702. Hentzner's statement is
curious as showing that in England, in the sixteenth century, the story obtained
credence that the regal crown was made of the' gold of this table; and this old tra-
dition seems likewise to have been current in Luneburg. A German author,
Sigismund Hofmann, published at Celle a work on the subject of the Golden
Table ; and from the sixth edition of that work, Beckmann (Litt. der alt. Reise-
beschreibungen, ii. 23) has quoted the passage, of which the following is a trans-
lation : " I shall not examine the. ancient tradition, that once a certain Queen
of England asked for a piece of this Table in order to put it into her crown,

264 Notes.

and when it was taken out for her, her understanding was obscured, and she be-
came mad ; wherefore she afterwards put back [into the church] a pair of golden
crucifixes of the same size, together with the gold. Certain it is, that there has
been here and there something patched into the frame, to judge from the colour,
which is paler than that of the gold next to it. Should such a thing have hap-
pened, one would have to consider whether it might not have been during the
time of Henry the Lion, who married the English Princess Maud, daughter of
Henry II. of England, she having been brought out from England as the destined
bride of the Duke Henry the Lion, in 1 168, and united to him at Minden. At
that time there was much intimate relation with England. Already, in 1644,
this Table was somewhat despoiled. The thief had also had in his hands the
golden crucifix, but left it standing, having heard that a Queen had received a
piece from the table in order to wear it in her crown, but had afterwards gone
mad, and had the crucifix made from that gold." Hofmann, it would seem, was
not aware of Hentzner's remark. We learn, moreover, from the first-quoted
work that the costly table at Luneburg was considerably plundered in 1 664, and
again in 1698, when it was robbed of most of its valuable portions, its jewels and
relics, by Nicol List and his band of desperadoes. Moryson (Itin. 1617, pt. i.
p. 6) visited Luneburg, and writes: " In the Monastery within the Towne, they
shew a Table of Gold, which Henry Leo Duke of Saxony tooke from Milan and
placed here, and it is fastned to the altar, being more than an ell and halfe
long, and about three quarters broad, and little or nothing thicker then a French
crowne. They shew also foure Crosses of pure gold, which they said a certaine
Queene once tooke from them, but presently fell lunatike, neither could be cured
untill she had restored them." The subject has not been noticed by S. Martin
Leake, in his " Remarks on Crowns," reprinted in " Choice Notes on History,"
pp. 248, &c.

120. Page 105. William Slawata, or Slavata, the Bohemian nobleman who
was so honoured by Queen Elizabeth at Greenwich, was born in 1572. On com-
pleting his studies at the Italian Universities, he travelled through the whole of that
country, Spain, France, England, the Netherlands, and Denmark. He afterwards
became Imperial High Chancellor, Marshal of the Court, and a Knight of the
Golden Fleece. He is lauded by his countryman and contemporary, the Baron
Christoph Harant, in the Preface (setting forth the advantages of travel) prefixed
to his own Travels in the East, undertaken in 1598, et seq. and written in Bohe-
mian. (A German translation was published at Nuremberg in 1678, 4to. under
the title of" Der Christliche Ulysses.") Slavata left Memoirs of his own time,
contained in more than ten volumes. The first part of a History of Hungary in
the reign of Ferdinand I, composed by him in Bohemian, was published at Vienna
in 1857. A notice of him appears in Pelzel's " Abbildungen Bohmischer und
Mahr. Gelehrten," &c. 1773, theil i. p. 13. In the riot which took place at
Prague, on May 23rd, 161 8, the two Counsellors, Slavata and Martinitz, who
were universally detested, together with the Secretary Fabricius, were attacked and

Notes. 265

thrown by the Protestant party out of the highest windows of the Castle. A
dunghill saved the terrified outcasts from injury. To this dire event is ascribed
the origin of the thirty years' war ! Slavata died, at the age of eighty, in 1652.
His name does not appear in the " Biographie Universale."

121. Page 105. In the following verses, taken from a rare black-letter volume,
entitled, " A Fourme of Prayer, with thankesgiving, to be used of all the Queenes
Maiesties loving subiectes every yeere, the 17 of November, being the day of Her
Highnes entrie to her kingdome" (London, 1578, 4-to.), we are strikingly
reminded of our national anthem of God save the $>ueen: —

" Lorde keepe Elizabeth our Queene,

Defend her in thy right :
Shewe forth thy selfe as thou hast beene,

Her fortresse and her- might.
Preserve her Grace, confound her foes,

And bring them downe full lowe :
Lorde turne thy hande against all those

That would her overthrowe.

Mayntaine her scepter as thine owne,

For thou hast plaste her here :
And let this mightie worke be knowne,

To nations farre and nere.
A noble ancient Nurse, O Lorde,

In England let her raigne :
Her Grace among us do affbrde,

For ever to remaine.

Indue her, Lorde, with vertues store,

Rule thou her royall Rod ;
Into her minde thy spirit powre,

And shewe thy selfe her God.
In trueth upright, Lorde guide her still,

Thy Gospell to defende :
To say and do what thou doest will,

And stay where thou doest ende.

Her counsel!, Lorde, vouchsafe to guide,

With wisdome let them shine,
In godlines for to abide,

As it becommeth thine.
To seeke the glorie of thy name,

Their countries wealth procure,
And that they may perfourme the same,

Lorde graunt thy Spirit pure."
M M

266 Notes.

122. Page 107. Giovanni Micheli, the Venetian Ambassador in England
during the reign of Queen Mary, took the opportunity of depicting, in vivid
colouring, " Miledi Elisabetta" — the Princess Elizabeth of twenty-three years —
in his "Relazione d'Inghilterra," presented to the Senate on his return in 1557.
During her subsequent reign of forty-five years, all diplomatic relations between
the two Governments ceased, doubtless on account of the differences which the
change of religion recognized by the Queen occasioned in politics. (Baschet, La
diplomatic Vinitienne, p. 106.) The Report of Micheli, in an abridged form,
has been translated and printed by Sir H. Ellis {Letters; 2nd series, vol. 2) ; the
portion we give within brackets is taken from the more extended document
included in Alberi's collection of "Relazioni degli Ambasciatori Veneti," serie 1,
vol. 2 (Firenze, 1840), pp. 289, &c.

" My Lady Elizabeth, the daughter of Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyne,
was born in 1533 [in the month of September — so that she is at present
twenty-three years of age]. She is a lady of great elegance both of body and
mind, although her face may rather be called pleasing than beautiful; she is tall
and well made ; her complexion fine, though rather sallow (o/ivastra) ; her eyes,
but, above all, her hands, which she takes care not to conceal, are of superior
beauty. In her knowledge of the Greek and Italian languages she surpasses the
Queen. [She excels the Queen in the knowledge of languages; for in addition
to Latin, she has acquired no small acquaintance with Greek. She speaks Italian,
which the Queen does not, in which language she takes such delight, that in the
presence of Italians it is her ambition not to converse in any other.] Her spirits
and understanding are admirable, as she has proved by her conduct in the midst
of suspicion and danger, when she concealed her religion and comported herself
like a good catholic. She is proud and dignified in her manners ; for, though
her mother's condition is well known to her, she is also aware that this mother
of hers was united to the King in wedlock, with the sanction of the holy church
and the concurrence of the primate of the realm ; and though misled with regard
to her religion, she is conscious of having acted with good faith ; nor can this
latter circumstance reflect upon her birth, since she was born in the same faith
as that professed by. the Queen. Her father's affection she shared at least in
equal measure with her sister ; [it is said that she resembles her father more than
the Queen does], and the King considered them equally in his will, settling on
both of them 10,000 [30,000] scudi per annum. [Yet with this allowance she
is always in debt. And she would be much more so, if she did not studiously
abstain from enlarging her establishment, and so giving greater offence to the
Queen. For indeed there is not a knight or gentleman in the kingdom who has
not sought her service, either for himself or for some son or brother ; such is
the affection and love that she commands. This is one reason why her expenses
are increased. She always alleges her poverty as an excuse to those who wish to
enter her service, and by this means she has cleverly contrived to excite compas-
sion, and at the same time a greater affection ; because there is no one to whom

Notes. 267

it does not appear strange that she — the daughter of a king— should be treated
in so miserable a manner. She is allowed to live in one of her houses about
twelve miles distant from London, but she is surrounded by a number of guards
and spies, who watch her narrowly and report every movement to the Queen.]
Moreover, the Queen, though she hates her most sincerely, yet treats her in public
with every outward sign of affection and regard, and never converses with her
but on pleasing and agreeable subjects. She has also contrived to ingratiate herself
with the King of Spain, through whose influence the Queen is prevented from
bastardising her, as she certainly has it in her power to do by means of an Act
of Parliament, and which would exclude her from the throne. It is believed that
but for this interference of the King, the Queen would without remorse chastise
her in the severest manner ; for whatever plots against the Queen are discovered,
my lady Elizabeth or some of her people, may always be sure to be mentioned
among the persons concerned in them."

Elizabeth's studious habits and remarkable proficiency in languages are attested
by Roger Ascham, who was her preceptor, in his interesting work, " The Schole-
master," 157 1. "It is your shame (I speake to you all, you yong Jentlemen of
England) that one Mayde [i. e. the Queen] should goe beyond you all in excel-
lency of learning and knowledge of divers tonges. Pointe forth six of the best
geven Jentlemen of this Court, and all they togither shew not so much good will,
spend not so much tyme, bestow not so many houres, dayly, orderly, and con-
stantly, for the increase of learning and knowledg, as doth the Queenes Maiestie
' her selfe. Yea, I beleeve, that beside her perfit redines in Latin, Italian, French
and Spanish, she readeth here now at Windsore more Greeke every daye, then
some Prebendarie of this Church doth read Latin in a whole weeke. And that
which is most prayse worthy of all, within the walles of her privy chamber, she
hath obtained that excellency of learning, to understand, speake and write both
witely with head, and fayre with hand, as scarse one or two rare wittes in both the
Universyties have in many yeares reached unto. Amongest all the benefites that
God hath blessed mee withall, next the knowledge of Christes true Religion, I
count this the greatest, that it pleased God to call mee to be one poore Minister
in setting forward these excellent giftes of learning in this most excellent Prince.
Whose onely example, if the rest of our nobilitie would folowe, then might Eng-
land bee, for learning and wisdome in nobilitie, a spectacle to all the world be-
side." The following interesting passage, which we have not before seen quoted,
is from the pen of Dr. William Turner, who, in the Dedication of his " Herbal,"
1568, to the " most noble and learned Princesse in all kindes of good lerninge,
Quene Elizabeth," speaks thus of her accomplishments : " As for your knowledge
in the Latin tonge xviij. yeares ago or more, I had in the Duke of Somersettes
house (beynge his Physition at that tyme) a good tryal thereof, when as it pleased
your grace to speake Latin vnto me : for although I have both in England, lowe
and highe Germanye, and other places of my longe traveil and pelgrimage, never
spake with any noble or gentle woman that spake so wel and so much congrue fyne

268 Notes.

and pure Latin, as your grace did vnto me so long ago : sence whiche tyme howe
muche and wounderfullye ye have proceded in the knowledge of the Latin tonge,
and also profited in the Greke, Frenche and Italian tonges and others also, and in
all partes of Philosophic and good learninge, not onlye your owne faythfull subiectes,
beynge far from all suspicion of flattery bear witnes, but also strangers, men of great
learninge in their bokes set out in the Latin tonge, geve honorable testimonye."
Numerous specimens of Elizabeth's " fayre hand," both as Princess and as
Queen, are in the MS. department of the British Museum. One highly interesting
volume contains Prayers or Meditations composed originally in English by Queen
Katherine Parr, and translated into Latin, French and Italian, by Elizabeth when
princess, as a gift to her father Henry VIII. It is written on vellum, entirely in
her own hand, with a dedication to the King, dated from Hertford, 20 Decem-
ber, 1545. The binding is of silk, embroidered with silver, supposed to have
been executed by Elizabeth herself, and on the sides is the monogram of Queen
Katherine Parr. This translation is mentioned by Bishop Montague, in his
Preface to the " Workes of King James," fol. 1616. Dr. Bliss has described, in
a MS. note to Walpole's " Royal and noble Authors," in the British Museum,
(vol. i. p. 87), a volume deposited in the Bodleian Library, entirely written by
Elizabeth. It consists of " Latin phrases, quotations, &c. The covers or blank
leaves before the volume was bound (as it now is in vellum), are filled up with
what may be actually termed scribbling ,• nor is it a slight trait of her affection
towards her brother, that Edv. and Edvardus are continually seen as the words
fixed on by the princess for her essay in the art of penmanship." Other books
written by the Queen are noticed at pp. 16;, 171, and note 153.

123. Page 108. The way in which young thieves were educated in the Eliza-
bethan age to perform their nefarious work neatly and dexterously, is revealed to
us in the following quaint extract from a report written by Fleetwood, the Re-
corder of London, dated July 7th, 1585 (Ellis, iup. 297): "Amongestour travells
this one matter tumbled owt by the waye, that one Wotton, a gentilman borne,
kepte an Alehowse att Smarts Keye neere Byllingsegate, and reared upp a newe
trade of lyffe, and in the same howse he procured all the Cuttpurses abowt this
Cittie to repaire to his said howse. There was a Schole Howse sett upp to learne
younge boyes to cutt pursses. There were hunge up two devises, the one was a
pockett, the other was a purse. The pockett had in yt certen cownters, and was
hunge abowte with hawkes bells, and over the toppe did hannge a litle sacringe
bell ; and he that could take owt a cownter without any noyse was allowed to be
a publiaue ffoyster ; and he that could take a peece of sylver owt of the purse with-
out the noyse of any of the bells, he was adjudged a judicial! Nypper. Nota that
a ffoister is a Pickpokett and a Nypper is termed a Pickepurse,or a Cutpurse."
Those who have read " Oliver Twist" will be reminded of the very curious and
uncommon game played by the " Artful Dodger" and his companions for the
edification of the young novice. The rogue Autolycus, in the Winter's Tale,
who was a " snapper-up of unconsidered trifles," and understood the business

Notes. 269

well, asserts that " to have an open ear, a quick eye, and a nimble hand, is neces-
sary for a cut-purse." John Fit [Fitz] John says, in his " Diamond most pre-
cious," &c. 1577 : " If you picke or stele above twelve pence, the lawes of this
realme is death." A cut-purse named John Selman was executed on January 7th,
161 2, for picking the pocket of Leonard Barry, servant to Lord Harrington, of a
leather purse in the King's Chapel at Whitehall, on the previous Christmas Day,
his Majesty being present. From a quarto pamphlet published at the time, we
learn that the purse, a double one, was valued at one halfpenny, but in it were forty
shillings. " Selman came into the Chappell in very good and seemely apparell, like
vnto a Gentleman or Citizen — viz. a faire blacke cloake laced, and either lined
thorow or faced with velvet." The charge was given to the " Grand Inquest" by
Sir Francis Bacon, the King's " Solister." The place of execution was between
Charing Cross and the Court Gate. The work, which contains on the title-page
a woodcut portrait of the gentlemanly pick-pocket with the stolen purse in his
hand, ends thus : " But see the gracelesse and vnrepenting minds of such like
kinde of liuers ; for one of his quality (a picke-pocket I meane) euen at his execu-
tion, grew master of a true mans purse, who being presently taken, was imprisoned,
and is like the next sessions to wander the long voiage after his grand Captaine,
Mounsier Iohn Selman. God, if it bee his blessed will, turne their hearts, and
make them all honest men !"

124. Page 108. In 1636, Leo van Aitzema, the Dutch ambassador and his-
torian, was shown at Woodstock, Queen's Elizabeth's verses fasted on a board
(" een Engelsche ghedicht op een bort geplackt"), and also what he is pleased to
term " Rosemondboor." (Saien van Staet, &c. 1669, ii. 363.)

125. Page in. It is curious that the same remark was made by the Vene-
tian Ambassador, in his Relation of England, written in 1497, but not printed
until 1847, when this interesting work was carefully translated and edited by
Miss Sneyd for the Camden Society. The Ambassador says that " the English
are great lovers of themselves and of everything belonging to them ; they think
that there are no other men like ^themselves, and no other world but England ;
and whenever they see a handsome foreigner, they say that ' he looks like an
Englishman/ and that * it is a great pity that he should not be an Englishman'
(i gran peccato che eglinon sia Inglese); and when they partake of any delicacy with
a foreigner, they ask him * whether such a thing is made in their country ? ' "

126. Page 113. Erasmus, in his Letters, bitterly complains of the rapacity of
the English custom-house officers. On leaving England after his first visit in
1499, the regulation prohibiting any person from carrying out of the country coin
exceeding in amount six angels, was put in force against him. The King's officers
at Dover took from him all the money he had above that sum, nearly £20, thus,
in fact, depriving him of the fruits of his learned labours in England. See Erasmus
On Pilgrimages, edited by J. Gough Nichols, Esq. p. 173. Moryson {I tin. 161 7,
pt. 1, p. 275) says : " In England the Law forbids any Traveller upon paine of
confiscation to carry more money about him out of the kingdome than will serve
for the expences of his journey— namely, above twenty pounds sterling."

270 Notes,

127. Page 1 18. Juan de Tassis, Count Villamediana, had been despatched to
England the year before (1603) to congratulate the new King, and to pave the
way for the peace. An interesting account of his mission was published at Se-
ville in the same year; a copy of this very rare production is in the Grenville
Library. (See also Chifflet's Maison de Tassis, fol. 1645.)

128. Page izi. The original of this passage is as follows (Relation, &c.
p. 41): " Despues embid el Rey al Condestable un gran recaudo con el Conde de
Northampton, diziendole que aquel dia era dichoso para el, pues se hazia la paz,
y cumplian sus hijos anos, y la Princessa Isabella quatro ; y que assi esperava que
por el nombre, havia de ser medio para conservar en amistad y union los Reynos
de Hespana y Inglaterra, al contrario de otra Isabella enemiga, que tantos danos
havia causado : que assi le diesse licencia para que le brindasse a la salud de los
hijos," &c. The note respecting this in Ellis's " Original Letters " is : " What
* Isabel ' King James could allude to, it is not easy to say. Perhaps it was one of
the children of Philip III, who died at an early age, and are not particularly
noticed by historians. His next health, ' The Princess of Spain ' appears to coun-
tenance this supposition, under which the singular number has been substituted by
the translator for the plural 'hijos,' Prince Charles having at the period above alluded
to nearly completed his fourth year." Here also the translation stands : " This
season was memorable to his Majesty, not only -because he had concluded a peace,
but also because one of his sons and Princess Isabel were each about completing
their fourth year." The above passage certainly is obscure, but there can be no
doubt that the Isabel alluded to was James's eldest daughter Elizabeth, who after-
wards married the Elector Palatine; the name Isabella being the Spanish equivalent
for Elizabeth, as Queen Bess well knew from the atrocious vituperations launched
against her by the Spaniards. Even after her death, Lope de Vega vilified her in his
Poem on Mary Queen of Scots, entitled "Corona Tragica," (4to. Madrid, 1627)
with the epithets ' a bloody Jezebel,' (sangriente Jezabel), a play on the name
Isabel ; a ' second Athaliah,' (nueva Italia), and others equally choice. And
Davila, the Spanish historian, after denouncing the English Queen " Isabel or
Jezabel as a Calvinistic heretic and the greatest persecutor that the blood of
Jesus Christ and the sons of the Church ever had" (Vida de Felipe 111, p. 74),
on recording her death (p. 84) sends the impious Isabella {la impia Isabela) down
to the lowest depths of the inferno, there to suffer all the pains and penalties for
her infamous life. Howell, writing from Madrid in 1622, says, " The Spaniard
never speaks of Queen Elizabeth but he fetcheth a shrink in the shoulder." In
Latin documents the name of the Spanish Queen Isabella (the Catholic) is ren-
dered by " Elisabetha."

The impressive allusion to the day, made in James's toast, was evidently in-
tended by him for the day of the month (i. e. the 19th), on which three of his
children had been born, viz. Henry (at this time ten years old), on the 19th of
February, 1594; Elizabeth (now exactly eight years old), on the 19th of August,
1596; Charles (scarcely four years old), on the 19th of November, 1600; and

Notes. 27 1

we may conclude that some confusion as to the King's remark in respect of age
is due to the Spanish reporter and interpreter.

There is a considerable literature regarding this peace between Spain and Eng-
land. In the next year (1605), the aged Earl of Nottingham was sent to Valla-
dolid to receive the oath of his Catholic Majesty ; of this journey there are extant
two distinct narratives, one by Robert Treswell, Somerset Herald, the other by
an anonymous writer, who professes to have been present. The pen of the author
of " Don Quixote " is said to have been likewise called into service on the same
occasion, the authority for this being a satirical sonnet by the poet Gongora, quoted
by Pellicer (Vida de Cervantes, p. 115) : —

" Pario la Reyna : el Luterano vino

Con seiscientos hereges y heregias :
Gastamos un millon en quince dias
En darles joyas, hospedage y vino :
Hicimos un alarde 6 desatino,

Y unas fiestas, que fueron tropelias,
Al Anglico legado y sus espias
Del que juro la paz sobre Calvino :
Bautizamos al nino Dominico,

Que nacio para serlo en las Espanas :
Hicimos un sarao de encantamento :
Quedamos pobres, fue Lutero rico :
Mandaronse escribir estas hazaiias
A Don Quixote, a Sancho, y su jumento."

In English thus : " The Queen was confined : the Lutheran came with 600
heretics and heresies : we spent a million in a fortnight to give them feasts, en-
tertainments, and wine : we made such a display, or rather played such tom-
fooleries, gave such galas or such guzzlings to the English envoy and his spies, for
that he swore to the peace on Calvin. We christened the boy [i. e. Philip IV.]
Dominic, because he was born to domineer over the Spains : we gave a ball quite
enchanting : we made ourselves poor, but made Luther rich. These our exploits
were commended for description to Don Quixote, Sancho, and his ass."

The work thus ascribed to Cervantes on the strength of the above sonnet
by Gongora, is excessively rare ; the original is entitled : "Relacion de lo suce-
dido en la ciudad de Valladolid desde el punto del felicisimo nacimiento del prin-
cipe D. Felipe Dominico Victor," &c. and was published at Valladolid in 1605,
410. In the British Museum there is only an Italian translation, by Cesare
Parona, printed at Milan in 1 608 ; this copy was once in King James's own
library.

129. Page 122. The "Princess of Spain " was the afterwards celebrated
Anne of Austria, wife of Louis XIII. of France, and mother of Louis XIV. She
was born September 22, 1601.

272 Notes.

130. Page 123. A description of the dances mentioned in the text may be
obtained from a curious work written by Cesare Negri, a Milanese professor of
the saltatory art, and published at Milan in 1604, in folio, with numerous engrav-
ings. It is entitled : " Nuove inventioni di balli," &c. James Fs copy is in
the British Museum.

131. Page 123. These were probably the large Irish greyhounds, much
valued for their strength and boldness, and formerly used in hunting the wolf and
the boar. Mastiffs were usually selected to encounter Bruin in battle.

132. Page 127. The population of London at this date was estimated by the
Venetian Ambassador at 300,000 souls. (Correr's Relation a" Angleterre, circa
1610.)

133. Page 128. We have met with no allusion in our chroniclers or histo-
rians to the strange statement in the text respecting Henry VH's " blood sprinkled
on the wall" of the chamber wherein he died, at Richmond Palace ; the story is,
however, repeated by two other travellers, Zinzerling and Eisenberg, who men-
tion besides a magic mirror used by the King. The MSS. and printed books which
Grasser saw in the Palace, are now in the British Museum, forming part of the
Old Royal Collection. The Genealogy of the Kings of England, specially no-
ticed by Zinzerling, (see p. 134), and by Eisenberg (p. 172), is a vellum roll,
twenty feet long, and beautifully written. (14. B. 8.)

134. Page 132. Touching English Inns and their accommodation, Fynes
Moryson (I tin. 16 17, pt. 3, p. 151) writes: "I have heard some Germans com-
plaine of the English Innes by the high way, as well for dearenesse as for that
they had onely roasted meates : but these Germans, landing at Gravesend, per-
haps were injured by those knaves that flocke thither onely to deceive strangers,
and use Englishmen no better, and after went from thence to London, and were
there entertained by some ordinary Hosts of strangers, returning home little
acquainted with English customes. But if these strangers had knowne the Eng-
lish tongue, or had had an honest guide in their journies, and had knowne to live
at Rome after the Roman fashion (which they seldome doe, using rather Dutch
Innes and companions), surely they should have found that the World affbords
not such Innes as England hath, either for good and cheape entertainement after
the Guests owne pleasure, or for humble attendance on passengers ; yea, even in
very poore villages. . . . For assoone as a passenger comes to an Inne, the servants
run to him, and one takes his horse and walkes him till he be cold, then rubs him
and gives him meate, yet I must say that they are not much to be trusted in this
last point, without the eye of the Master or his servant to oversee them. Another
servant gives the passenger his private chamber, and kindles his fier, the third puis
of his bootes and makes them cleane. Then the Host or Hostesse visits him, and
if he will eate with the Host, or at a common table with others, his meale will
cost him sixe pence, or in some places but foure pence (yet this course is lesse
honourable, and not used by Gentlemen) ; but if he will eate in his chamber, he
commands what meate he will according to his appetite, and as much as he

Notes.

2 73

thinkes fit for him and his company, yea, the kitchin is open to him, to command
the meat to be dressed as he best likes ; and when he sits at Table, the Host or
Hostesse will accompany him, or if they have many Guests, will at least visit
him, taking it for curtesie to be bid sit downe : while he eates, if he have com-
pany especially, he shall be offred musicke, which he may freely take or refuse,
and if he be solitary, the musitians will give him the good day with musicke in the
morning. It is the custome and no way disgraceful! to set up part of supper for
his breakefast. In the evening or in the morning after breakefast (for the com-
mon sort use not to dine, but ride from breakefast to supper time, yet comming
early to the Inne for better resting of their Horses) he shall have a reckoning in
writing, and if it seeme unreasonable, the Host will satisfie him either for the due
price, or by abating part, especially if the servant deceive him any way, which
one of experience will soone find. ... I will now onely adde, that a Gentleman
and his Man shall spend as much as if he were accompanied with another Gen-
tleman and his Man, and if Gentlemen will in such sort joyne together to eate at
one Table, the expences will be much diminished. Lastly, a Man cannot more
freely command at home in his owne House, then hee may doe in his Inne, and at
parting if he give some few pence to the Chamberlin and Ostler, they wish him
a happy journey." At another part of his work (part 3, p. 19) Moryson advises
his countrymen travelling abroad : " In all Innes, but especially in suspected
places, let him bolt or locke the doore of his chamber ; let him take heed of his
chamber fellowes, and alwayes have his sword by his side or by his bed side ; let
him lay his purse under his pillow, but alwayes foulded with his garters or some
thing hee first useth in the morning, lest hee forget to put it up before hee goe out
of his chamber. And to the end he may leave nothing behind him in his Innes,
let the visiting of his chamber and gathering his things together be the last thing
he doth, before hee put his foote into the stirrup."

135. Page 134.. On the subject of this picture the Editor was favoured with
the following interesting particulars by his friend Mr. Richard Garnett, of the
British Museum, whose valuable aid on many other occasions he begs gratefully
to acknowledge. Mr. Garnett writes : — ■'

" You will remember, in one of the German travellers' descriptions of Hampton
Court, mention of a supposed portrait of our Saviour, sent, according to tradition,
by one of the Sultans to the Pope, to obtain the release of his brother. You said
that the picture had disappeared from the palace without leaving any trace. We
then referred to Burcardus's account of Bajazet the Second's embassy to Pope Inno-
cent VIII, in 1492, to obtain, however, the safe custody, not the liberation, of
his brother Zim. On this occasion he sent the Pope what was represented to be
the head of the lance by which Christ's side was pierced, but Burcardus does not
mention any other relic. Now, going over Warwick Castle this morning [June
15, 1863], I observed with much surprise a small portrait, painted in the Byzan-
tine manner on a gold ground, and superscribed in capitals : ' This present figure
is the similitude of our Lord 1HS, our Saviour, imprinted in an emirald by the pre-

N N

274 Notes.

decessor of the Great Turke, and sent to Pope Innocent VIII for a token to re-
deem his brother that was taken prisoner.' This shows that the inscription must
have been written in the time of Sultan Selim, 1 5 1 2-20. I can have little doubt
that this is the picture referred to by the German : the wonder is, how it could
have got from Hampton Court to Warwick." This portrait of the Saviour would,
however, appear to be only one among many other pretended " true Portraits."
Old copies are alluded to in the " Antiquarian Repertory," iii. (where one is
badly engraved); also in "Notes and Queries" for 1864. Photographs of "the
only true likeness of our Saviour" — a very beautiful head certainly— rhave lately
been exhibited in the shops of London.

136. Page 135. Mr. J. Gough Nichols informs us [Gent. Mag. 1836, p. 154)
that Gough, the antiquary, about 1765, purchased so much of the chimney-piece
of the parlour in Theobalds Palace as had survived the demolition. " It is two-
thirds of a groupe of figures in alto-relievo, representing in the centre Minerva
driving away Discord, overthrowing Idolatry, and restoring true Religion. The
architecture is ornamented with garbs or wheat-sheaves, from the Cecil crest. It
is carved in clunch or soft stone, probably by Florentine artists." It was after-
wards presented to his father, Mr. J. B. Nichols. As to the strange names of
" Sitschitz" and of " Fanacham " mentioned in the text, Mr. J. G. Nichols, in a
communication with which he has favoured the editor, says : " I have little doubt
they are in their origin • Cecil ' and ' Fackenham,' and relate to the legendary
dispute for arms, of which Lord Burghley, among other genealogical matters, was
proud. It may have been carved on one of the chimney-pieces, but perhaps only
painted on the walls." (See also Notes 54 and 55.)

137. Page 140. Shakespeare has put into the mouth of Trinculo {Tempest,
act 2, sc. 2, ed. fol. 1623) an admirable skit upon the sight-seeing and curiosity-
seeking propensity of his countrymen : —

" What haue we here, a man, or a fish ? . . . a strange fish : were I in England
now (as once I was), and had but this fish painted, not a holiday-foole there but
would giue a peece of siluer : there, would this Monster, make a man : any
strange beast there, makes a man : when they will not giue a doit to relieue a
lame Begger, they will lay out ten to see a dead Indian" &c. (See also Notes 16
and 56.)

138. Page 143. The letter which the Landgrave Maurice wrote fromCassel,
May 14, 161 1, introducing his son Otto to the Prince of Wales, is in the Had.
MS. (7008.) In the same volume are holograph letters of Prince Otto, in French,
addressed to Prince Henry from Brussels, August 2 1 , and Cassel, October 1 o, 1 6 1 1 ,
acknowledging the latter's kindness to him while in England.

139. Page 144. If the statement in the text — that Prince Otto went to
Church with James I, to celebrate the " anniversary" of the Gunpowder Plot —
be accurately given by Rommel, it must imply the day (Tuesday) on which it
was discovered, the date of this visit of the German Prince being in June, July,
and August. We have shown in Note 93 that the King was in the habit of

Notes.

attending church every Tuesday, in commemoration of the Gowry Conspiracy,
which happened also on that day.

140. Page 145. There is a \xo. tract descriptive of this mission of Henry
Clinton, second Earl of Lincoln, written by Edward Monings, and entitled
"The Landgrave of Hessen his princelie receiuing of her Maiesties Embassador.
Imprinted at London by Robert Robinson, 1596." It is remarkable that in this
narrative there is no mention made of the name or titles of the Ambassador, but
that of his son, " Master Edward Clinton," appears in one or two places.

141. Page 145. Mr. Fairholt is an excellent authority on the history of
Tobacco. In his work on that subject (1859) he says, p. 70: "Among the
papers at Penshurst is a note of expenses of Sir Henry Sidney, Lord Deputy of
Ireland, among which occurs ' three shillings for an ounce of tobacco.' This was
within about three years of its first introduction to England, and would be equiva-
lent to about 18/. of our present money." The accounts of the Earls of Cum-
berland, between 1606 and 1638, show the great consumption of money to be
in " wines, journeys, cloaths, presents, and tobacco." Whittaker {Craven, p.
275) says: "The last heavy article of expence was tobacco, of which the finest
sort cost i8.r. per pound, and an inferior kind izj. A single bill for this article
amounted to £36 7. 8." By multiplying this by four, remarks Mr. Fairholt,
we shall be able to judge of the price, as compared with that of our own day, and
so understand the heavy expense of an indulgence in tobacco at this period. Bar-
naby Rich, in his " Honestie of this Age" (1614), says he was told that there were
as many as 7000 shops in and about London where tobacco was sold. Camden
has a curious passage respecting tobacco and smoking. He says (Annates, 1625,
bk. 3, p. 107) : "And certes since that time [1586, see Note 116], that Indian
plant called Tobacco, or Nicotiana, is growne so frequent in vse, and of such
price, that many, nay, the most part, with an insatiable desire doe take of it,
drawing into their mouth the smoke thereof, which is of a strong sent, through a
pipe made of earth, and venting of it againe through their nose ; some for wan-
tonnesse, or rather fashion sake, and other for health sake, insomuch that Tobacco
shops are set vp in greater number then either Alehouses or Tauernes." (See also
Hentzner's remarks, Note 56.)

142. Page 151. The disease called the King's Evil was the scrofula, which it
was supposed the English Kings were gifted with the power of curing by touching
those afflicted with the complaint. Multitudes of persons were touched by royal
hands from the time of Edward the Confessor till the reign of Queen Anne— a
period of nearly 700 years. Similar miraculous powers of healing were claimed
for the French monarchs. In 1 597, William Tooker, a Doctor of Theology,
wrote a work on the subject, which he dedicated to Queen Elizabeth, and in
which he maintained the virtues of the royal touch for the English Kings. This
work is entitled, " Charisma, sive donum sanationis ; seu explicatio tonus quass-
tionis . . de curatione strums, cui Reges Anglia; rite inaugurati, divinitus medi-
cati sunt, &c." Andre Du Laurens (Andreas Laurentius), first Physician to

276 Notes.

Henry IV. of France, claimed the gift for the French Sovereigns in a publication
entitled, " De mirabili strumas sanandi vi, solis Gallia; regibus christianissimis
divinitus concessa" (8vo. Paris, 1609). In this volume is a large and in-
teresting engraving by P. Firens, representing Henry IV. touching for the evil.
The patients are kneeling in the open air. At page 19 the author states that he
had vainly endeavoured to see Tooker's work, but that he had heard there were
many absurd and laughable things in it advanced by the writer ; among others,
that the French Kings had received the power of healing from the English, &c.
Shakespeare has described the practice in " Macbeth," act iv. sc. 3 (fol. edit.
1623):—

" Macd. What's the Disease he meanes ?

Mai. Tis call'd the Euill.

A most myraculous worke in this good King,
Which often since my heere remaine in England,
I haue seene him do : How he solicites heauen,
Himselfe best knowes : but strangely visited people
All swolne and Vlcerous, pittifull to the eye,
The meere dispaire of Surgery, he cures,
Hanging a golden stampe about their neckes,
Put on with holy Prayers, and 'tis spoken
To the succeeding Royalty he leaues
The healing Benediction."

Queen Elizabeth seldom performed the ceremony. But the practice was at its
height in the reign of Charles II, and it is said that the " Merry Monarch"
touched between the time of his restoration and his death nearly 100,000 persons.
He ordered a particular medal or touch- piece -to be expressly coined, and in two
years no less a sum than £6000 had been ordered for providing gold for "healing
medals." The ceremony observed in this reign is described by Pepys and Evelyn,
and in the Travels of Cosmo III. Grand Duke of Tuscany. Evelyn, under date
28 th March, 1684, mentions that there was so great a concourse of people with
their children to be touched for the evil, that six or seven were crushed to death by
pressing at the chirurgeon's door for tickets. Several proclamations were issued and
announcements published in the newspapers during this and the subsequent reign,
prohibiting persons from coming to be healed, either on account of the plague or
other infectious sickness prevalent. William III. did not touch for the evil. " He
had too much sense to be duped (says Lord Macaulay, who has some admirable
remarks on this subject, iii. 478, &c), and too much honesty to bear a part in
what he knew to be an imposture. ' It is a silly superstition,' he exclaimed, when
he heard that, at the close of Lent, his palace was besieged by a crowd of the
sick : ' Give the poor creatures some money, and send them away.' On one
single occasion he was importuned into laying his hand on a patient — ' God give
you better health,' he said, 'and more sense.' " Dr. Samuel Johnson, when three

Notes.

277

years old, in 171 2, was touched by Queen Anne, and a touch-piece in the
British Museum is said to be the identical one which the illustrious lexicographer
received on that occasion. In the Library of that establishment there is a little
book printed at London, in 1686, entitled "The Ceremonies for the healing of
them that be diseased with the Kings Evil, used in the time of King Henry VII ;
published by His Majesties command." The form "at the Healing" occurs
often in the Common Prayer books of the reigns of Charles I. and II, James II,
and Queen Anne. These English forms all vary, and a new one appears to have
been drawn up for each sovereign.

143. Page 151. William, third Earl of Pembroke, was the eldest son of
Henry, second Earl. He was K. G., Chancellor of the University of Oxford,
and Lord Chamberlain of the Household. He succeeded his father January 19,
160S., and died loth April, 1630, when the Earldom went to his brother Philip,
who had been created Earl of Montgomery, May 4, 1605. Philip succeeded his
brother as Lord Chamberlain, and was also K. G. and Chancellor of Oxford Uni-
versity, and died January 23, i6a§-. They are the "incomparable paire of bre-
thren" to whom the first folio of Shakespeare, 1623, is dedicated.

144. Page 151. Sir James Balfour (Annates of Scotland, ii. 108) makes a re-
mark, strangely spelt and quaintly expressed, which, however, does not speak much
for James's cleanly habits : " His skin vas als softe as tafta sarsnet, which felt so
becausse he neuer vasht his hands, onlie rubb'd his fingers ends slightly vith the
vett end of a napkin."

145. Page 153. Bishop Hacket, in hisLife of Lord Keeper Williams (fol. 1693,
p. 38) says : " The King's [James I.] table was a trial of Wits. The reading of
some books before him was very frequent while he was at his repast. He was
ever in chase after some disputable doubts, which he would wind and turn about
with the most stabbing objections that ever I heard ; and was as pleasant and
fellow-like in all those discourses, as with his Huntsmen in the field." (See also
Note 87.)

1 46. Page 153. Casaubon had resided some years in France, where he appears
to have led a restless and uncomfortable life, when, soon after the melancholy
death of Henry IV, in 1610, he could no longer resist the importunities of
James I, who had frequently urged him to settle in England. The scholar came,
and his new master, who had now found the man after his own heart, was not
slow in availing himself of his services. Casaubon became the alter ego or cat's-
paw in all the royal pedant's theological controversies. He was perpetually sum-
moned to Court, very much to his discomfort, but he received his reward in two
prebends, with a yearly pension of £300. The interview with the King at
Theobalds, described in the text, is interesting as showing how such engagements
were fulfilled. Casaubon's Diary has been recently published under the title of
" Ephemerides," but he has not recorded this visit to his Majesty on September
20th, 161 3 : the omission may be explained by the anxiety under which he then
appears to have been labouring, owing to the serious illness of his wife, who was

278

Notes.

a daughter of Henri Estienne (Stephens), the learned printer and compiler of the
famous Greek Thesaurus. The sheet of paper which the scholar laid before
James for his criticism was in all probability a portion of Casaubon's "Exercita-
tiones de rebus sacris et ecclesiasticis," which was levelled against the Annals of
Cardinal Baronius. The work was printed at London in the following year
(16 14) — the year of Casaubon's death, with a dedication by its author to the
Most Potent King of England, and Defender of the Faith. Chapter 1 3 3 is devoted
to a confutation of Bellarmine, on the subject of the temporal power of the Pope,
and the Cardinal is also attacked in the Preface and elsewhere in the volume. It
is a folio of 773 pages, the merits of which, however, are said to consist in having
destroyed only the pinnacles of his adversary's castle. In the British Museum is the
very copy which belonged to King James ; it is in a magnificent contemporary
binding, with the royal arms on the sides, and in excellent preservation. After
the learned scholar's death, the King, at the instigation of Patrick Young, his
librarian, purchased Casaubon's entire Library of his widow, for the sum of £250
(Devon's Issues of the Exchequer, p. 327). The well-thumbed volumes, having the
margins covered with his MS. notes, and usually with his autograph signature on
the title-pages, are now in our National Library. The bindings appear to be
mostly of the time of Charles I, His initials, I. C, are stamped on the backs of
the volumes. Not many years after Casaubon's death, one Thomas Scott, B.D.
a fearless and admirable writer, sent forth various pamphlets attacking the pro-
jected Spanish alliance. One of the most severe is the " Vox Populi, or Newes
from Spayne" (1620), which is directed against the celebrated Gondomar, who,
from his peculiar qualities, was nicknamed Fox Populi. The work was soon sup-
pressed by royal authority. The following pithy extract is intended to describe
the cunning artifices of the Papists to possess themselves of the Libraries of the
heretical English — and of Casaubon's among the number: —

" My Lord (replyes Gondamor) all the Libraries belonging to the Romane Ca-
tholiques through the land are at their [i. e. the Jesuits] command, from whence
they have all such collections as they can require gathered to their hand, as well
from thence as from all the Libraries of both Universities, and even the bookes
themselves, if that be requisite. Besides, I have made it a principall part of my
imployment, to buy all the manuscripts and other ancient and rare authours out
of the hands of the heretiques, so that there is no great scholler dyes in the land
but my agents are dealing with his books. In so much, as even their learned Isaack
Causabon's Library was in election without question to be ours; had not their
Vigilant King (who forsees all dangers, and hath his eye busy in every place) pre-
vented my plot. For after the death of that great scholler, I sent to request a
view and catalogue of his bookes with their price, intending not to be outvyed
by any man, if mony would fetch them ; because (besides the damage that side
should have received by their losse prosecuting the same story against Cardinall
Baronius) we might have made good advantage of his notes, collections, castiga-
tions, censures, and criticismes, for our owne party, and framed and put out

Notes. 279

others under his name at our pleasure. But this was foreseene by their Prome-
theus, who sent that Torturer of ours (the Bishop of Winchester) to search and
sort the papers, and to seale up the study : giving a large and princely allowance
for them to the Relickt of Causabon, togither with a bountifull pention and pro-
vision for her and hers. But this plot fayling at that tyme, hath not ever done
so. Nor had the Universitie of Oxford so triumphed in their many manuscripts
given by that famous knight Sir Thomas Bodly, if eyther I had been then im-
ployed, or this course of mine then thought upon ; for I would labour what I
might this way or any other way to disarme them, and eyther to translate their
best authours hither, or at least to leave none in the hands of any but Romane
Catholiques who are assuredly ours. And to this end, an especiall eye would be
had upon the Library of one S[ir] Robert Cotton (an ingrosser of Antiquities)
that whensoever it come to be broken up (eyther before his death or after) the
most choice and singular pieces might be gleaned and gathered up by a Catholique
hand. Neyther let any man think that descending thus lowe to petty particulars
is unworthy an Ambassadour, or of small avayle for the ends we ayme at ; since
we see every mountayne consists of severall sands, and there is no more profitable
conversing for statesmen then amongst schollers and their bookes, specially where
the King for whom we watch is the King of Schollers, and loves to live almost
altogither in their element. Besides, if by any meanes we can continue differences
in their Church, or make them wider, or beget distast betwixt their clergy and
common Lawyers (who are men of greatest power in the land) the benefit will
be ours, the consequence great, opening a way for us to come in betweene, for
personall quarrels produce reall questions." An anecdote of Casaubon is introduced
by Coryat in his amusing "Crudities" (161 1, pp. 31-33). Being in Paris, in May,
1608, he says, "I enjoyed one thing which I most desired above all other things
— even the sight and company of that rare ornament of learning, Isaac Casaubonus,
with whom I had much familiar conversation at his house near unto St. Germans
Gate within thecitie. . . . Lately hath this peerlesse man made a happy transmigra-
tion out of France into our renowned Island of Great Britaine to the great joy of the
learned men of our nation; myselfe having had the happinesse to enjoy his desiderable
commerce once since his arrivall here." Casaubon remarked to him that it was
great pity there was not found some learned man in England that would write the
life and death of that incomparable Queen Elizabeth in some excellent style. Such
a task was, indeed, soon afterwards undertaken by William Camden, whose monu-
ment is placed side by side with that of Casaubon in the south transept of West-
minster Abbey. A portrait of " the little man with a black beard " is in the
Picture Gallery of the Bodleian Library at Oxford. A fine engraving by Van
Gunst, after Vanderwerf, is in the collection of English Portraits of the reign of
James I. in the Print Room of the British Museum.

147. Page 154. James's Queen, Anne of Denmark, at times indulged in these
sylvan sports, of which her royal spouse was so passionately fond. The follow-
ing anecdote is amusing; the scene being Theobalds, the time a few weeks prior

280 Notes.

to this visit of our German Prince. The writer, Mr. Chamberlain, dates his
letter from " Ware Park," August I, 1613 : " At their last being at Theobalds,
which was a fortnight since, the Queen, shooting at a deer, mistook her mark, and
killed Jewel, the King's most principal and special hound ; at which he stormed
exceedingly awhile ; but after, he knew who did it, he was soon pacified, and
with much kindness wished her not to be troubled with it, for he should love her
never the worse ; and the next day sent her a diamond, worth £2000, as a legacy
from his dead dog." {Life and Times of James I, i. 260.) A curious and inter-
esting large portrait of the Queen, ast. 43, by Van Somer, is at Hampton Court.
She is attired in a hunting dress, and wears a smart hat with red feather ;
a negro is holding her richly caparisoned horse ; five small greyhounds are caper-
ing about; in the, distance is a view of the Palace at Oatlands. (See also
Note 105.)

148. Page 155. Sir Henry Wotton, speaking of Marc Antonio Correro, the
Venetian Ambassador accredited to England, says : " His complexion is not strong
for a long voyage." (Birch's Prince Henry, p. 1 15.) The work of Dr. Levinus
Lemnius has the same use of the term in " The Touchstone of Complexions,"
1581, noticed at p. 77. In the British Museum is an interesting volume
which belonged to Charles I, when Prince of Wales. It is the " Aphorismes
civill and militarie, out of Guicciardine," fbl. London, printed by Edward Blount,
1 6 1 3. The book has the royal arms and initials C. P. on its covers ; the binding is
elaborately ornamented with gold. On the reverse of the title-page is an engraving
of "The highe and mighty Charles Prince of Great Britanny, Sec. jEtatis sua?
13," 6 in. by 5 in. This portrait conveys the idea of his being of a delicate con-
stitution. The work is dedicated by Sir Robert Dallington, the translator, who
became afterwards Master of the Charter House, " To the high and Mightie,
Charles Prince of Great Britannie," &c. The Museum also possesses the copy of
Lord Bacon's " Advancement of Learning" (Oxford, 1 640), which belonged to
the unfortunate Charles when King, who has inserted twenty-three Apophthegms
with his own hand in the volume, probably when he was a prisoner in Caris-
brooke Castle ; likewise a volume entitled : " Florum Flores, sive Florum ex
veterum Poetarum floribus excerptorum Flores ;" consisting of a selection of pas-
sages from the Classical Latin Poets, arranged alphabetically under heads, entirely
in the handwriting of Charles when Prince, and presented by him to his father
James I. as a new year's gift, to show his progress in his studies.

149. Page 159. This " perspectively painted " Portrait was seen by Hentzner
in 1 598, who describes it as " A Picture of King Edward VI, representing at first
sight something quite deformed, till by looking through a small hole in the cover
which is put over it, you see it in its true proportions." It is an optical delusion
called Anamorphosis, which is a perspective projection of a picture, so that at one
point of view it shall appear distorted, or different to what it really is ; in another,
an exact and regular representation. Sometimes it is made to appear confused to
the naked eye, and correct when viewed in a glass or mirror of a certain form.

Notes. 281

Shakespeare, in '* Richard the Second," act ii. sc. 2, has : —

" Like perspectives, which rightly gaz'd upon,
Shew nothing but confusion, — ey'd awry,
Distinguish form."

And see other allusions in " Twelfth Night" and " Henry V." Dr. Plot {Nat.
Hist, of Staffordshire, 1686, p. 391) writes : " At the Lord Gerards, at Gerards
Bromley, there are the pictures of Henry the great of France and his Queen, both
upon .the same indented board, which if beheld directly, you only perceive a con-
fused piece of work; but if obliquely, of one side you see the King's, and on the
other side the Queen's picture, which I am told (and not unlikely) were made
thus. The board being indented according to the magnitude of the pictures, the
prints or paintings were cut into parallel pieces, equal to the depth and number
of the indentures on the board ; which being nicely done, the parallel pieces of the
King's picture were pasted on the flatts that strike the eye beholding it obliquely
on one side of the board ; and those of the Queen's on the other, so that the
edges of the parallel pieces of the prints or paintings exactly joyning on the edges
of the indentures, the work was done." The curiosity above noticed by Hentzner
is mentioned in Walpole's "Anecdotes of Pain ting," edit. 1862, i. 135. He says:
" Among the stores of old pictures at Somerset House was one, painted on a long
board, representing the head of Edward VI, to be discerned only by the reflection
of a cylindric mirror. On the side of the head was a landscape not ill done. On
the frame was written Gulielmus pinxit" — probably Guillim Strete, a Dutchman,
who was painter to King Edward VI.

150. Page 161. In 1598, Hentzner remarked at Whitehall Palace the following
pictures: "Queen Elizabeth, at 16 years old; Henry, Richard, Edward, Kings
of England; Rosamund; Lucrece, a Grecian bride [a mistake] in her nuptial
habit; the genealogy of the Kings of England ; the Emperor Charles V ; Charles
Emmanuel, Duke of Savoy, and Catherine of Spain his wife; Ferdinand, Duke
of Florence, with his daughters ; Philip, King of Spain, when he came into Eng-
land and married Mary ; Henry VII ; Henry VIII. and his Mother ; besides
many more of illustrious men and women ; the Siege of Malta."

151. Page 164. The wax-figure ofPrince Henry is thus noticed by Sir Charles
Cornwallis : " On Sunday at night, before the funerall, his representation was
brought (made in so short warning, as like him as could be), and apparelled with
cloathes, having his creation robes above the same, his cap and crowne upon his
head, his garter, coller, with a George about his neck, his golden staffe in his right
hand, lying crosse a little ; briefely, every thing as hee was apparelled at the time
of his creation. Which being done, it was laid on the back on the coffin, and
fast bound to the same, the head thereof being supported by two cushions, just as
it was to bee drawne along the streets in the funerall chariot, drawne by eight
black horses, decked with his severall scutcheons and plumes." (Life of Pr. Henry,
p. 85). The wax effigies, " decked and trimmed with cloathes as he went when

o o

282 Notes.

hee was alive," was set up in a Chamber of the Chapel [Henry VII's], at West-
minster Abbey, " amongst the Representations of the Kings and Queenes, his
famous predecessors, where it remaineth for ever to be seene." (Cornwallis,
p. 93.) According to Monstrelet, the representation of Henry V. was made of
boiled leather — " cuir bouilli." It was elegantly painted, with a rich crown of gold
upon his head ; in his right hand was a sceptre, in his left a golden ball; and his
face was looking to the heavens. The wax-work exhibition at Westminster
Abbey, popularly called " the play of the dead volks," and the " ragged regi-
ment," was discontinued in 1839. Some of the figures, however — repetitions or
restorations, many exceedingly good — are still remaining in a gallery over Abbot
Islip's Chapel.

152. Page 165. This " large Bible printed upon parchment" is now in the
British Museum. It is the first revised edition of Cranmer's English Bible, called
also "The Great Bible," and was printed in April, 1540, at the expense of An-
thonye Marler, " haberdassher," of London, by whom this very copy was pre-
sented to Henry VIII. A payment of £13 6s. id. per annum to Andrew Bright
and Edmond Doubleday occurs among the Expenses of James I. isomers' Tracts,
ii. 390) for keeping the King's Bible at Whitehall. In an Inventory of the Plate
in the Jewel House of the Tower, taken in 1649, after Charles I.'s death, there
is an entry of: " I Large Bible and common prayer booke, covered with silver
and gilt plate, estimated at 6olb. weight, and valued at $s.\d. p. oz,=£l92 o o."
{Archaologia, xv. p. 273.)

153. Page 165. Hentzner,in 1598, mentions the Royal Library in the Palace
at Whitehall, as being " well stored with Greek, Latin, Italian, and French books;
among the rest, a little one in French, upon parchment, in the handwriting of
the present reigning Queen Elizabeth, thus inscribed : ' A Treshaut & Trespuis-
sant & Redoubte Prince Henry VIII. de ce nom, Roy d'Angleterre, de France,
& d'Irlande, defenseur de la foy —

Elisabeth sa Treshumble fille rend
Salut & obedience.'

All these books are bound in velvet of different colours, though chiefly red, with
clasps of gold and silver ; some have pearls and precious stones set in their bind-
ings." Many of these royal books have found a safe resting-place in our Na-
tional Library ; a few retain the beautiful bindings above noticed by Hentzner,
and are exhibited to the public in the MS. department and in the King's Library.
Other books written by the Queen have been mentioned in Note 122. Some
choice specimens which belonged to James I. are also in the British Museum.
Hentzner also remarked the following curiosities at Whitehall Palace : " Two
little silver cabinets of exquisite work, in which the Queen keeps -her paper, and
which she uses for writing-boxes. The Queen's bed, ingeniously composed of
woods of different colours, with quilts of silk, velvet, gold, silver and embroidery.
A little chest ornamented all over with pearls, in which the Queen keeps her

Notes. 283

bracelets, earrings, and other things of extraordinary value. Christ's Passion, in
painted glass. A small Hermitage, half hid in a rock, finely carved in wood.
Variety of emblems, on paper, cut in the shape of shields, with mottoes used by
the nobility at tilts and tournaments, hung up for a memorial. Different instru-
ments of music, upon one of which two persons may perform at the same time.
A piece of clock-work, an ^Ethiop riding upon a Rhinoceros, with four attendants,
who all make their obeisance when it strikes the hour; these are put into motion
by winding up the machine."

154. Page 167. The streets in London are described by Hentzner as " very
handsome and clean ; but that which is named from the Goldsmiths who inhabit it,
surpasses all the rest ; there is in it a gilt tower, with a fountain that plays. Near
it is a handsome house built by a goldsmith and presented by him to the city.
There are besides to be seen in this street, as in all others where there are gold-
smiths' shops, all sorts of gold and silver vessels exposed to sale, as well as ancient
and modern medals, in such quantities as must surprise a man the first time he
sees and considers them. We were shown at the house of Leonard Smith (Fairi),
a tailor, a most perfect looking-glass, ornamented with pearls, gold, silver, and
velvet, so richly as to be estimated at 500 ecus du soleil. We saw at the same
place the hippocamp and eagle stone, both very curious and rare."

Hentzner also informs us that " there are fifteen Colleges, within and without
the City, nobly built, with beautiful gardens adjoining. Of these the three prin-
cipal are — I. The Temple, inhabited formerly by the Knights Templars : it
seems to have taken its name from the old Temple, or Church, which has a
round Tower added to it, under which lie buried those Kings of Denmark
that reigned in England [meaning the Knights Templars] ; II. Gray's Inn
{Grezin) ; and III. Lincoln's Inn {Lyconsin), In these Colleges numbers
of the young nobility, gentry and others, are educated, chiefly in the studies of
philosophy, theology, and medicine — for very few apply themselves to that of the
law. They are allowed a very good table, and silver cups to drink out of. Once
a person of distinction, who could not help wondering at the great number of
silver cups, is said to have exclaimed, ' He should have thought it more suitable
to the life of students, if they had used rather glass or earthenware, than silver.'
The College answered, ' They were ready to make him a present of all their
plate, provided he would undertake to supply them with all the glass and earthen-
ware ; since it was very likely he would find the expense, from constant break-
ing, exceed the value of the silver.'" In 1807, Hentzner's Journey into England
was reprinted at Reading at the private press of Mr. T. E. Williams. Not being
able to interpret the above two names, Grezin and Lyconsin, the editor inserted
in his ' Addenda' this instructive note : " The Temple. Names of two Danish
Kings buried there, 'Gresin and Lyconsin !'"

INDEX

The letter n. precedes the numbers of the Notes.

gCTORS, ciii-cxi, 88, n.
16, 56, 84, 114, 115.
Adams (R.) Spanish Ar-
mada Charts, n. 29.
Aggas (R.) Maps, n. iz,

43> So-
Agricultural Produce, 52.
Aitzema (L. van) at Woodstock, 11.

124.
Alasco (A.) Visit to England, Iv.
Albums, xxxi-xxxiii.
Alchemists, lxxxviii.
Aldermen of London, 107.
Ale and Beer, xliv, Iviii, 9,79, 109,

152, n. 20, 56.
Alencon in pledge, Ixxxiv.
Alkmaer, plan of, 1597, n. 84.
Alleyn (E.) n. 56.
All Souls' College, Oxford, 26.
"Amsterdam Dutchman," n. 10.
Anamorphosis, n. 149.
Andrea? (J. V.) 88, n. 1 14.
Andrelini (F.) n. 117.
Angsrietter, see Anstruther.
Anhalt, Prince of, Travels in England,
cxxii, n. 37, 39, 49, 53, 55, 56,
109 ; Portrait of, 162.
Anne Boleyn, n. 38.
Anne of Austria, n. 128, 129.

Anne of Denmark, 58, 61, 66, 118,

«35> n - 39> io 5» '47-
Anstruther (Sir R.) 65, 66, n. 107.
Apprentices of London, 7, n. 1.3.
Arabella Stuart, 58, 66, n. 71.
Aragon (DonB.de) 120, 121.
Archer's Court, Dover, n. 1.
Arithmxus (V.) Notes on London, &c.

175-178.
Armoury in the Tower, 19, n.42.
Arnold (C.) Album of, xxxii.
Arrows, 19, 154.
Art, Works of, in the Royal Palaces,

157-167.
Arundel, Earl of, xxvi, 1 19, n. 85.
Ascham (R.) lii, n. 122.
Ashmole (E.) Ixxviii, lxxxvi.
Assum (J. A.) Ixxi, lxxxv.
Audley End, 64, 135, n. 97.
Automata, n. 84.

Bacon, Lord, xviii-xx, n. 94, 123.
Baden, Margrave of, Visit to England,

lii, liii.
"Badenfahrt," xc-xcii.
Bajazet II, Sultan, n. 135.
Ball at Whitehall Palace, 123.
Balliol College, 22, 23.
Bankes's horse, n. 56.

286

Index.

Bankside, n. 56.

Barnfelt (H.) see Oldenbarnevelt.
Bartholomew Fair, 107.
"Bason (Silver) i' Chester," 140.
Bathing-excursion, xc-xcii.
Baths in Windsor Castle, xliii.
Bayona, Sir F. Drake at, n. 1 1 6.
Bear-baiting, xlvi, 46, 61, 123, 133,

n. 56.
Bear-garden, 140.
Beauehamp, " Tomb of," 139.
Beauvoir la Nocle (M.) 7-15, 46, n.

ii» 57-
Beaver " i' the Parke," 140.
Beckmann, Prof, xxviii, &c. n. 119.
Bed of Ware, 62, n. 53.
Beddington, 62, n. 86.
Bedford, 31, 135.

Beds, xlii, xliii, 108, no, n. 33, 153.
Beef, 152.
Beer, see Ale.
Beheading, no, n. 22.
Bellarmine, Cardinal, 153, n. 87, 146.
Bell-ringing, ill.
Benet College, 36.
Bentley (R.) 103.
Berck (J.) 59, n. 75.
Bereblock (J.) n. 43.
Bermudez (P.) n. 116.
Beze (T. de) n. 29.
Bibeus (S.) Account of Oxford and

Cambridge, 21-43, n - 45-
Bible of Henry VIII, 165,11. 152.
Birch (T.) n. 104.
Bird of Paradise, n. 33.
Birds of prey, 32.
" Black Bell," The, 133.
" Black Eagle," The, 58.
Blood-hounds, 17.
Boars, wild, 50, 145.
Boats, 134, [see also "Ships."]
Bodley (Sir T.) n. 146.
Boggy country, 30, 31.

Bohemian Pilgrimage to England, xxxix.
Books used in travelling, xxiv; patent

for printing, cxxv ; sold at Theatres,

n. 56.
Boreel (W.) n. 84.
Botnia (F. de) Album of, xxxii.
Bow-Dye, n. 84.
Bows and arrows, 154.
Boyle (Hon. R.) n. 84.
Boys, rudeness of English, n. 13.
Brandenburg Ambassador, 145.
" Brando," a dance, 123.
Brandon's lance, 140, n. 42.
Brandy sold in Hesse, 145.
Brasenose College, 27.
Braybrooke, Lord, n. 97.
Bremen, lviii.
Breuning (H. J.) Embassy to England,

lxiv-lxx.
Brooke (Sir W.) see Cobham (Lord).
Brown (Rawdon) xliii-xliv.
Browne (Sir W.) 57, n. 68.
Bruges (L. de) Lord of Gruthuyse, Visit

to England, xli.
Brunswick, Christian, Duke of, n. 72.
Brunswick, Frederick Ulric, Prince of,

Visit to' England, 58, &c. n. 72, 76,

110.
Brunswick, Henry Julius, Duke of, civ,

cvii, 161, n. 72.
Brydges (Sir E.) n. 109.
Buck (Sir G.) n. 56.
Buckhurst, Lord, lxviii.
Buildings in London, xxvi.
Bull-baiting, 46, 6 1, 124, I33,n. 16,56.
Burghley, Lord, lxii, &c. 44, n. 29,

54, 136.
"Burse," The, n. 17.
Burton (Rob.) on Travel, xxi.
Butcher, an executioner, 89.
Buwinckhausen (B. von) Embassy to

England, lxviii, lxxiii, Ixxvi, lxxxiv,

cxvi, cxviii, cxxiv, 61, 65, n. 83.

Index.

287

Byfleet, n. 59.

Cadiz, guns taken at, 133.

Caesar's " wine i' Dover," 140.

Caius (J.) 42, n. 52.

Caius(T.) n. 52.

Caius College, 37.

Calais, 4, 5.

Cambridge, cxix, 31-43, 62, 63, 135,

n - 45. 49-S 2 -

Camden (W.) 132, 178, n. 24, 84,
141, 146.

Cannon in the Tower, 167, n. 42.

Canterbury, 6, 66, 1 11, 131, n. 6.

Caravajal (Luisa) n. 98.

Cardano (G.) Visit to England, xlviii-1,
n. 84.

Carew (Sir F.) 61, 62, n. 86.

Caron (Sir N.) 59, 60, n. jg.

Carthagena taken, n. 1 16.

Carts, 14, n. 32.

Casaubon (I.) 153, n. 13, 146.

" Cassawarway,"' 140.

Cassel, 144, 145.

Cassel, William, Landgrave of, lvi.

Castile, Constable of, see Velasco.

Castiemaine, Countess of, n. 85.

Cataia natives, n. 40.

Cates (T.) n. 116.

Catharine Hall, 39.

Catherine of Aragon, xlv.

Catherine Parr, xlvi.

Cats, 32.

Cattle, 30, 51, jg, 109.

Cavendish (G.) n. 117.

Caxton's "Book for Travellers," xxxiii.

Cecil, Lord Burghley, see Burghley.

Cecil, Earl of Salisbury, lxxi,i63, n. 54.

Cecilia, Princess of Sweden, li-liv.

Ceilings in Theobalds Palace, 44, 45.

Cellius (E.) lxi, Ixxiii, lxxviii, xc, xci.

Cervantes, n. 128.

Charles, Prince, see Charles I.

Charles I. cix, ex, exxv, exxvi, exxx,
58, 150-155, 163, n. 54, 75, 76,
87, 89, 98, 102, 109, 128, 148.
Charles II, n. 89, 142.
Chastillon, Cardinal, 66.
Chatham, n. 6 1 , [see also " Rochester.""!
Cheke (Sir J.) xlix.
Chemical Experiments, n. 84.
Cherry trees, n. 86.
Chester, Silver "Bason," 140.
Child-births, 72.
Chimney-piece at Theobalds, 135, n.

136.
China, Fishing by Cormorants in, n. 95 .
Christ, Image of, 167; Christ's Pas-
sion, on glass, 165.
Christ Church College, Oxford, 28.
Christ's College, Cambridge, 40.
Christenings, 72.

Christian IV, King of Denmark, n. 36.
Christina, Queen of Sweden, li, liii.
Churches of London, 8.
Churchings, 72.
Churchyard (T.) lxxii, n. 58.
Chytraeus (N.) n. 24.
Clare Hall, 34, 35.
Clavell (R.) n. 63.
Cleanliness, English, 78.
Cleves, Duke of, cxv.
Climate of England, xlvii, 50, 109.
Closheys, game of, xli.
Coaches, Ixxiii, 30, 31, 133, n. 30.
Cobham, W. Brooke, Lord, 77, n. 109.
Cobham Hall, 66, n. 109.
"Cobs,"n. 18.
Cockfighting, 133.
Cocknies, n. 31.
Coins, 52.
Coke (Sir J.) exxv.

Colleges, n. 154, [see also "Cam-
bridge" and " Oxford."]
Colli (H.) cxvi, 61, n. 82.
Coloma (Don Carlos) 117.

2 88

Index.

Comedians, see Actors.

" Complexion," n. 148.

Conduits, 8, n. 18.

Coneys, n. 65.

Constable of Castile, see Velasco.

Conway, Lord, cxxv.

Cooks, English, n. in.

Copernicus, n. 84.

Cormorants, 64, 144, n. 95.

Corn, III.

Cornao (M. A.) see Correr.

Cornelius the Dutchman, see Drebbel.

Coronation Chair, 10, n. 25.

Corpus Christi College, Cambridge,

35. 3 6 -
Corpus Christi College, Oxford, 27, 28.

" Correnta" dance, 123.

Correr (M. A.) Relationof England, cxxi,
59, n. 21,71,74,76,77,93,105.

Coryat (T.) xiv-xvii, xxxvi, 140, n.
24, 56.

'* Cosen Garmombles,'' xciv-ciii.

Cosmo III, xxxvi, xxxvii.

Cossuma Albertus, Prince, n. 63.

Cottington (F.) n. 98, 99.

Cotton (Sir R.) an " ingrosser of an-
tiquities," n. 146.

Courtesy of the English, 78.

Coventry " Boares-shield," 140.

Cows, 51.

Crequi (Mad. de) n. 117.

Criminals, n. 22.

Crossbows, 17.

Crown, English, n. 119.

Cups of agate and crystal, 1 20, 1 2 1 .

Cure (C. and W.) n. 40.

Currants, n. 20.

Currency, 52.

Cut-purses, n. 123.

Dallington (R.) xxii.
Dancing, xxiii, xli, xlii, 1 10, 123,
117, 130.

Danes in England, x.

Danish Ambassador cheated, xxxvii.

Dartford, Paper Mill at, lxxii.

Davila, abuse of Queen Elizabeth, n.
98, 128.

Deanery at Westminster, 100.

Dee (Dr. J.) n. 60, 84.

Deer, 17, 50,154.

Denmark House, see Somerset House.

Deptford, Drake's ship at, 140, 173,
n. 62.

Derby, Earl of, 119.

Dethick (Sir W.) lxxviii, &c.

Devonshire, Earl of, 119.

D'Ewes (Sir S.) n. 36.

Diaries, xix.

Dibdin's History of Dover, n. 2, 118.

Dickens (C.) n. 53, 63.

Digby, Earl of Bristol, 66, n. 107.

Digges (T.) n. 2.

Dinner, Queen Elizabeth at, 106, 107 ;
James I. at, 60, 118-124, 152-153 ;
Lord Mayor's, 107 ; to the Con-
stable of Castile, 1 15-124.

Divinity Schools, Oxford, 26.

Dixie (Sir W.) 87, n. 113.

Dog-fish, 140.

" Dogge-dayes," 80.

Dogs, 45, 46, no, 154, n. 56, 131,
147.

Doncaster, Viscount, cxxiv.

Dorchester, Viscount, cxxv.

Dorset, Earl of, 1 19.

Dort, see Vanderdort.

Dotterels, 63, 64, n. 94.

Dover, liii, 5, 66, 78, 112, 113, 131,
140, n. 2, 118.

Draining the level, n. 84.

Drake (Sir F.) 49, 89, 135, 140, 172,
173, n. 62, 116.

Drayton (M.) n. 94.

Drebbel (C.) 61, n. 84.

Dress, 7, 8, 70, 71, 90.

Index.

289

Drinking and Drinks, oxxx, 79, 152,

153, n. 20.
Drought in the Thames, n. 60.
"Dutch," meaning German, xxii, n.

10, 118.
Dutch clocks, n. 10.
"Dutch Post," London, 6.
Dutchman, "great long," 139.
Dutchmen in England, x.

Easterlings, n. 19.

Eating, 70, n. lit.

Eckenstein, Herr, 128.

Edmondes (Sir T.) 61, 65, n. 104.

Edward the Confessor's shrine, 10, n.

24.
Edward " the Fortunate," lii, liv.
Edward III, sword of, 10, 140, n. 26 ;

wax-figure, 164.
Edward IV, xxxix, xli-xliii.
Edward VI, xlix, 159, 160, n. 38,

122, 149.
Eisenberg (P.) Notes on England, 169-

173-
Eleanora, of Scotland, xcii.

Elements, nature of the, n. 84.

Elizabeth, Queen, visits to, li, &c ;
favors the Lady Cecilia, lii ; report
of in Germany, lviii ; reception of
and correspondence with the Duke
of Wirtemberg, lx-lxxvi ; recep-
tion of Breuning, lxiv; at Green-
wich, cxxii, 103-107; at Reading,
1 1-13, n. 27 ; at Richmond, 87, 88 ;
at Westminster, 94 ; at Woodstock,
108, 135, 172, n. 124; alluded to
by James I, 121 ; monument, 127;
books written by, 133, 165, 171, n.
122, 153; portraits, 161-163, n.
118, 150; wax-figure, 164; look-
ing-glass, 165; draught-board, 173;
a musician, n. 28 ; at Windsor, n.
'33; at Hampton Court, n. 38; at

Oxford, n. 43, 52; at Cambridge,
n. 50 ; at Theobalds, n. 54 ; fond
of bear-baiting, n. 56; letter to
Lady Norris, n. 58 ; compared with
James I, n. "]•] ; visits Sir N. Caron,
n. 79 ; at Nonesuch, n. 85 ; at
Beddington, n. 86; reviled by the
Spaniards, n. 98, 128; at Cobham,
n. 109; her hair, n. 118; "God
save the Queen," n. 121 ; notice
of, by Micheli, n. 122; Camden's
Life of, n. 146.

Elizabeth, Princess, daughter of James
I, cxxvii, 58, &c, 66, 118-124,
143, n. 70, 72, 81, 128.

Eltham, 61, 139, n. 84.

Emden, lviii.

Emmanuel College, 42, 63.

Ems, river, 3.

Engines, n. 84.

England, foreigners' visits to, ix-xii ; Re-
lations of, xliii; a paradise for women,
14; " Sights and Exhibitions," 137-
140.

England and the English, t. Edw. III.
and Ric. II, Froissart, xxxvii ; 1466,
Rozmital, xxxviii-xl; 1 472, Gru-
thuyse, xli ; 1497, Trevisano, xliii ;
1515, Pasqualigo and Giustiniani,
xlv; 1543-4, Duke de Najera, xlvi ;
1545, Paradin, xlvii; 1545-6, Nic.
Nucius, xlvii-xlviii ; 1548, Jovius,
xlviii; 1552, Cardan, xlviii-1; 1556-
7, Micheli, 1; 1558, Perlin, 1-li;
temp. Eliz., Van Meteren, 67-73 ;
1560, Lemnius, 75-80; 1565, Ce-
cilia, Princess of Sweden, li-liv ;
1574, Turler, 81-84; 1583, Alas-
co, lv ; 1585, Kiechel, 85-90;
1592, Frederick, Duke of Wirtem-
berg, lv-ciii, 1-53 ; I598,Hentzner,
101-113; 1604, Constable of Cas-
tile, 1 15-124; c. 1606, Grasser, 125-

p p

290

Index.

128; 1 6 1 o, Prince of Wirtemberg,
55-66; c. 1610, Zinzerling, 129-
135 ; 161 1, Prince of Hesse, 141-
145; 161 3, Duke of Saxe- Weimar,
147-167; 1614, Eisenberg, 169-
173; 1617, Arithmsus, 175-178.

*' English Lion," the, 48.

English pronunciation of Latin, xxxvi,
144.

Englishmen abroad, xiii, &c.

Erasmus, 165, 171, n. 117, 126.

Eric, King of Sweden, liv.

Erskine (Sir T.) 119.

Essex, Earl of, 11, 13, 119.

Eton College, 17, 38.

Evelyn (J.) n. 84.

Evil, touching for the, 132, 144, 151,
152 ,154, n. 142.

Exchange, see Royal Exchange.

Executions, 133, n. 22, 42, [see also
" Hanging."]

Exeter College, 23.

Exhibitions in England, 137-140.

Eynatten (W. and A.) 1 1 3.

Fabricius, Secretary, n. 120.

Faithorne (J.) cxxxii.

Fanacham (G.) 135, n. 136. '

Fare, English, 79.

Farley (H.) n. 16.

Farmers, no, in.

Fashions, 71, 73, n. 112, [see also

" Dress."]
Fawkes (G.) n. 103.
Feathers, worn by ladies, 73.
Fennor (W.) 145.
Ferretti (F.) Travels in England, n. 8,

IS-
Ferry at Lambeth, n. 80.
Finett (Sir J.) xxxvii, n. 4.
Fire-ships, n. 84.
Fire-works, 140.
Fish, 52, 70, 71.

Fishing with cormorants, 64, n. 95.

Fleet-Street mandrakes, 139.

Fleetwood, Recorder, n. 123.

Flowers in rooms, 78.

Flushing, 57, n. 68, 106.

" Flushing" (The) at Gravesend, 132.

Foreigners in England, ix-xii, cxxiii,
&c. in London, cviii; rudeness to-
wards, 7, 11. 13 ; remarks on, in.

Fountains, 17, 19, n. 41.

Fowl, 52.

Francis I, xlv.

Frederick, Elector Palatine, 13 1, 149,
n. 70, 72.

Frederick, of Hesse Cassel, 133.

French language, xxxv.

Frenchmen in England, x, xi ; insults
to, n. 13.

Frobisher (Sir M.) 18, n. 40, 116.

Froissart, xxxvii, xxxviii.

Frontignac wine, 152.

Fruit, 52, n. 56.

" Fruitbearing Society," cxxii, 149.

Fuller (T.) n. 94.

Funerals, 72.

Gad's Hill, 49, n. 63.

Galliards, cxxviii.

Game, 50, [see also " Hunting."]

Gamlingay, 32.

Gardens, 18, 45, n. 39, 54.

" Garmombles," Iv, xciv, xcviii.

Garnet (H.) 127.

Garter, order of the, lx, &c, 16, 60,

*3 2 > 153. n - 33-
Garter-plates, lxxxvi, Ixxxvii.
Gerard (J.) Herbalist, n. 39.
" German," and " Dutch," n. 10.
German language, 7 1 ; Princes, 155;

Travellers, x, xxviii-xxxii, xxxvii,

133, 178, n. 134.
Germany, English actors in, ciii-cxi,

88.

Index.

291

Gibson, miniature by, cxxx.
Giovio, see Jovius.
Girls, 73.

Giustiniani (S.) mission to England, xlv.
Glass-houses, 1 10.
Globe Theatre, 61, n. 56.
Goldsmiths, cviii, 166, n. 154.
Gondomar, Count, n. 13,98,99, 116,

146.
Gonvile and Caius College, 37.
Goodman, Dean, 100.
Gorges (Sir T.) liv.
" Gosseps," 72.

Gowry Conspiracy, 63, 178, n. 93.
Grasser's Notes on England, 125-128.
Gravesend, 5, 6,48, 49, 58, 66, 132,

n. 7.
Greenwich Palace, xlv, 6, 61, 66, 103-

107, 135, 163, 167.
Greepe(T.) n. 116.
Gresham (Sir T.) n. 17.
Greyhounds, 123, n. 131.
Gruthuyse, Lord of, visit to England,

xli-xliii.
Guildhall " huge Corinjeus," 139.
Gunpowder Plot, 128, 133, 144, n.

77,93-
Guy of Warwick, 139.

Hacket, Bishop, cxix, n. 87, 145.

Hackney, n. 57.

Hair, ladies', n. 1 1 8 ; Bohemians', xxxix.

Hakluyt's Voyages, xiii.

Halberdiers, 124.

Hall, in Swabia, cxv.

Hall's Censure of Travel, xxv.

Halls, 97; at Oxford, 30.

Hamilton, Archbishop, xlviii.

Hampton Court, xcii, xciii, 18, 19,

134, 167, n. 38-40.
Handbooks of Travel Talk, xxxiii.
Hanging, lxxxviii, 89, no, 131, n.

123.

Hanse Towns, n. 19.

Harant (C.) n. 120.

Hares, n. 65 ; hare-hunting, 62-64,

n. 90.
Harrison (W.) n. 30, 32, 39, 49, 109.
" Harry the Lyon," 1 40.
Harvest Home, ill.
Hatching process of Drebbel, n. 84.
Haugwitz (C. von) lxxv.
Hawking, 63, 1 10.
Hawthorne's Remarks on England, xii.
Hay, floors strewed with, 104.
Hay, Lord, 63, n. 92.
Heads on London Bridge, 9, 171, n.

22.
" Healing," Ceremony of, see Evil.
Heidelberg, n. 70.
Helena, Marchioness of Northampton,

liv.
Henry IV, King of England, tomb,

66.
Henry V, King of England, wax-
figure, 164, n. 151.
Henry Vl, King of England, 63, 152,

172.
Henry VII, King of England, 84, 1 28,

134, 160, 164, 172, n. 133.
Henry VII's Chapel, 9, 97, 98, n. 23.
Henry VIII, King of England, xlv,

xlvii, xlviii, 19, 131, 140, 160, 165,

173, n. 38,42, 85, 152.
Henry, Prince of Wales, xvi, 58, &c.

118, 123, 143, 144, 161, 164, n.

56, 72, 76, 79, 84, 97, 101, 102,

no, 128, 151.
Henry the Lion, n. 1 19.
Henry IV, King of France, cxii, cxvi,

cxvii, 62, 64, i6z, 164, n. 75,96,

102, 109.
Hentzner's Travels in England, x,

cxxiii ; description of England ,101-

113 j Dover,n. 2; horses and saddles,

n. 5 ; Gravesend, n. 7 ; swans, n.

292

Index.

8; foreigners, n. 13; St. Paul's, n. 16;
London Bridge, n. 21,22 ; servants,
n. 30; Windsor, n .33 ; music and
dancing, n. 34 ; unicorn's horn, n.
37 ; Hampton Court, n. 38, 39 ;
fountains, n. 41 ; Tower of Lon-
don, n. 42 ; Oxford, n. 49 ; Cam-
bridge, n. 50 ; Theobalds, n. 55 ;
theatres, n. 56 ; oysters, n. 67 ;
Whitehall Palace, n. 150, 153;
streets, colleges, &c. n. 154.

Herbert of Cherbury, Lord, n. 108.

Herring- fishery, 71.

Hertford, paper mill at, lxxii.

Hesse, Maurice, Landgrave of, lxvii,
143, 145, n. 138, 140.

Hesse, Otto, Prince of, visit to Eng-
land, 141-145, n. 138, 139.

Hoefnagel's Views, n. 33, 85.

Hofmann (S.) n. 1 19.

" Hope" Theatre, n. 16.

Horky (J. E.) xxxix.

Hormayr, Baron J. von, 87, 90.

Horseferry at Lambeth, n. 80.

Horse-racing, n. 89.

Horses, xlviii, lxxxiii, lxxxiv, 5, 14,
30,45,48, 51, no,n. 14,31, 32,
66,76, 102, 109, 134.

Hospitality, n. 30.

Hounslow, 1 1 .

Housekeeping, n. 30.

Houses, 9, 1 10.

Howard, C. Lord High Admiral, 47,
119, n. 59,98.

Howard de Walden, Lord, lxxxiv, 64,
n. 97.

Howard, T. Earl of Suffolk, 64.

Howell (J.) xxvi, n. 13, 20.

Hudson (Jeffery) n. 54.

" Hunks of the Beare-garden," 140.

Hunsdon, Lord, 93, 100, n. 118.

Hunting, xlii, 14, 15, 17, 63, 154,
>5S. n- 77.87,89,91,147.

Husbands, 72, 73.
Hyde Park, 100.

Ignes fatui, 112.

" Indian, Dead," n. 40, 137.

Inhabitants of London, 7.

Innocent VIII, 134, n. 135.

Inns, 14, 108, n. 134.

Inns of Court, 133, n. 154.

Inscriptions, 177, 178, n. 24.

Ireland, 83.

" Isabella," Spanish for Elizabeth, 12 1,

n. 128.
Isle of Dogs, xlvi.
Isle of Wight, xlviii.
Italian Comedian, n. 56.
Italian language, lxv.
"Italian Ordinary," 155.
Italians, x, xi, xliv, 1.

Jacob's stone, 10.

James I. at Dartford, lxxiii ; sends the
Garter to the Duke of Wirtemberg,
lxxvi, &c ; presents of horses to,
lxxxiv; " Apology for the Oath of
Allegiance," cxiv, cxv, n.98 ; enter-
tains the Prince of Wirtemberg, '58,
&c; at Thetford, 63, n. 91 ; ad-
mirable discourses, 64 ; hunting
propensities, 117, n. 94, 95; en-
tertains Spanish Ambassadors, 117;
entertains Prince Otto, 143-145;
at Theobalds, 149-155, n. 54; ge-
nealogy, 1 65 ; bust, 1 66 ; visit to
St. Paul's, 1 78, n. 16; on Witches,
n. 64 ; proclaimed at Flushing, n.
68 ; treatment of the Dutch Am-
bassadors, n. 75 ; jealous of Prince
Henry, n. 76 ; character of, by
Correr, n. 77, 105 ; patronises
Drebbel, n. 84 ; at Royston, n. 87 ;
at Newmarket, n. 89; Gowry Con-
spiracy, n. 93 ; received news of

Index.

! 93

Henry IV's death, n. 96; atAudley
End, n. 97; at Chatham, n. 109 ;
" Gunpowder Plot," n. 139 ; "neuer
vasht his hands," n. 144;. "at
table," n. 145; patronises Casau-
bon, n. 146.

Jesus College, Cambridge, 39.

Jesus College, Oxford, 29.

Jhering, (J.) lxiii.

Joachimi (A.) 59, n. 75.

John, King, his sword, 139.

John a Gaunt's lance, 140.

Jones (Inigo) xxvi.

Jonson (B.) xv, xvi, n. 84, 94.

Jovius (P.) Description of Britain,
xlviii, n. 13.

Kenilworth, n. 56.

Kent, n. 4.

"Kentish tails," n. 31.

Ketel (C.) n. 40.

Kiechel (S.) England and the English,

85-90.
King's College, Cambridge, 37, 63,

«35. n -3<5-
Kinloss, Lord, 1 19.
Kirchner (H.) xxx.
Kissing, 90, n. 72, 117.
Knights Templars, n. 154.
Kuffler (Dr.) n. 84.

La Boderie, cxvi, cxvii, 58, &c. n. 73,
96.

Ladies at the Court of Edw. IV, xl;of
Kent, n. 4; English, n. 20 ; Spanish
ladies in England, n. 98, gg; hair,
n. 118; delights for, n. 118, [see
also " Women."]

Lambarde(W.) n. 61.

Lambeth, Caron's house at, 60, n. 79 ;
ferry at, n. 80.

Laneham (R.) n. 56.

Languages, attainment of, xxii ; Eng-
lish language, 1, 71, 79.
Latin, spoken in travelling, xxxv, xxxvi;

English pronunciation of, 144.
Lauremberg (P.) n. 84.
Law Courts at Westminster, 95.
Lead roofs, 17.

League of Catholic princes, cxv.
Leicester, " King Richard's bed-sted,"

140.
Lemnie(W.) 78.
Lemnius (L.) Notes on England, 75-

80.
Lennox, Duke of, 63, 119, 155, 164.
Lesieur (Sir S.) lxxiv, lxxv.
Levinus, Mr. see Munck.
Lewk'ehor (Sir L.) 58, 149, n. 4.
Library of Henry VII, see Henry VII ;

ofCasaubon, n. 146; at Whitehall

Palace, 133, 165, n. 153.
Lilac trees, n. 85.
Lincoln, Earl of, 145, n. 140.
Lincoln College, 25, 26.
Lindsay (J.) 1 19.
Lions, xlvi, 19, 1 33, n. 42, 56.
Lippershey (J.) of Middelburg, n. 84.
L'Isle, Viscount, 66, n. 106.
List (Nicol) n. 119.
Liveries, n. 30.
London, in 1588, n. 12 ; in 1592, 6-

10,91-100; in 1610, 58, &c; in

1614,171,172; in 1617, 175-178;

population of, in 1610, n. 132;

streets, n. 154.
London Bridge, 9, 132, 171, n. 21.
London buildings, xxvi.
London 'prentices, n. 13.
Looking-glasses, 165, n. 154.
Lord Mayor of London, 88, 107, 132,

n. 18.
Lord Mayor's day, n. 113.
Lord Mayor's dinner, 128, 145.
Lumley, Lord, n. 85.

294

Index.

Luneburg golden table, 104, n. 119,
Lyne (R.) n. 52.

Magdalen College, Cambridge, 41.

Magdalen College, Oxford, 27.

Magic, 172.

Maidenhead, 1 1 .

Manners and Customs, 89, &c. 109-

Manwood (Sir R.) n. 63.

Margaret, Countess of Richmond, 63.

" Marget a Barwicke," 139.

Married persons travelling, xxviii.

Married women, paradise of, 73.

Martinitz, n. 120.

Mary, Queen of England, xlvi, n. 122.

Mary, Queen of Scots, 161, n. 40, 118,

128.
Masks, worn by ladies, 73.
" Master of the Ceremonies," n. 4.
Mastiffs, n. 56, 131.
Maud, Princess, n. 119.
May-Day at Greenwich, xlv.
Medals, Ixxxiii-lxxxv.
Medici (Marie de') coronation of, n.

no.
Medusius, Dr. 128.
Medway, 132, n. 61.
Melon, 119.

Melviile(SirJ.)n. 10, 118.
Memmingen, English actors at, 89, n.

US-

Mendoza (Don Hurtado de) I 17.

Merchant adventurers, n. 19.

Merchants) 8, 79.

Merlin's cave, 139.

Merton College, 23.

Meteren (E. van) Description of Eng-
land, xxxvi, 67-73, n. 75,

Mexia (Don D. de) 117.

Meyer (H.) 128.

Micheli (G.) Relation of England, 1, n.
13, 122.

Microscopes, 5, n. 84.

Milton, xxxii, xxxvi.

Mines, no.

Mint, 133.

Mirefleur Tower at Greenwich, 107.

Mirrors, 166, 172.

Mompelgard (Montbeliard), Iv, &c.

cxx, 30.
Money, xxiii, 52, 113, n. 126.
Monkeys, 61.

Montague (J.) Bishop of Win ton, n. 87.
Montbeliard, see Mompelgard.
Montgomery, Earl of, 151, n. 143.
Monuments in Westminster Abbey, 9,

10, 132.
Morsius (J.) n. 84.
Morteaulx, a game, xli.
Moryson (F.) Travels, xiv, xv, xxxiii,

lvii, lviii.n. 20, 31, ill, 119, 134.
Moses, image of, 165.
"Motion of Eltham," 139, [see also

" Perpetual Motion."]
Mud, 31.

Mummied princes, 140.
Miimppelgart, see Mompelgard.
Munck (L.) cxxiii, 65, n. 103.
Murray (Sir D.) 65, n. 72, 101.
Music, cxxviii, 11, 15, 105, no, 119,

n. 34, 49.
Musical instruments, 18, 134.
Musicians, English, abroad, ciii, cvi.
Mytens (D.) xciii, cxxxii.

Najera, Duke de, visit to England,

xlvi, n. 117.
Name-carving, n. 36; names disfigured

by foreigners, n. 9.
Nassau, Count of, 143.
Navy, see Ships.
Neale(T) n. 43.

Netherlandish postmaster's house, 6.
Netherlands, English actors in the, ciii-

cxi; why so called, n. 10.

Index.

295

Neumayr von Ramssla, 149.

Newcastle, Marquis of, n. 102.

New College, Oxford, 25, 135, 172.

Newmarket, 63,64, n. 87, 89.

Nine-pins, xii.

" Ninive, fall of," 140.

Nonesuch Palace, 62, 134, 163, 167,

n. 41,85.
Norden (J.) 91-100, n. 12,33,38,41.
Norris (Sir J. and Sir E.) lxv, 46, n.

20, 58.
Northumberland, Earl of, 119.
Norwich, 140.

Nottingham, Earl of, see Howard (C.)
Nucius (N.) visit to England, xlvii,

xlviii, n. 1 17.

Oldenbarnevelt (H. van) 59, n. 75.

Olderson, lvii.

Opitz (M.) cxxix.

Optical instruments, n. 84.

Orangery at Beddington, n. 86.

Oranges, 120.

Oriel College, 24.

Ortelius (A.) Travels in England,

xxxvi, 69.
Osborne (F.) xxvii.
" Othello" acted in 1 610, cxviii, cxix.
Otho II, n. 119.
Ovens, Iron, n. 84.
Oxen, 30, 31, 51.
Oxford, 20-31, 134, 135, 172, n. 43,

45>4 8 > 49> 5 Z > 7 2 -
Oysters, 52, n. 67.

Pages of the Court, 13.

Paintings at Hampton Court, 18 ;
Theobalds Palace, 44; Whitehall
Palace, 122, [see also " Pictures."]

Palace at Westminster, 47, 98.

Palaces in London, 172.

Palmer (T.) xxiv.

Paradin (G.) Description of England,
xlvii.

" Paradise room," 1 34.
" Paradise of Married Women," 73.
Paris Garden, bear-baiting at, xlvi.
Parker (M.) Archbishop of Canterbury,

Hi.
Parks in England, 107, 108.
Parliament at Westminster, 95, 133.
Parnassus Mount, 166.
Pasqualigo (P.) Mission to England, xliv,

xlv.
Passports, 14, 47.
Paul's Cross, 178.
Peace between England and Spain

(1604), 120, &c. n. lz8.
Peacham(H.) 137-140, n. 20.
Peasants' huts, 31.
Peele (G.) n. 113.
Peiresc (N. de) n. 84.
Pembroke, Earl of, 118, n. 143.
Pembroke Hall, 35.

Pepys (S.) n. 84.

Perlin (E.) England and the English,
xii, n. 13,15,20,22, 34.

Perpetual Motion of Drebbel,6i, n. 84.

" Perspectives," n. 149.

Peter House, 34.

Pezel (C.) xxxiii.

Philip III, King of Spain, 120, n. 128.

Philip IV, King of Spain, n. 128.

Philipps (E.) lxxviii.

Physic, 109.

Pick-pockets, n. 123.

Pictures in the Royal Palaces, 157-164;
kept by Vanderdort, cxxx, cxxxi,
134. n. 38, 150, [see also "Paint-
ings."] ■

Pinto, "a liar," xii.

Plaster statues at Nonesuch, n. 85.

Piatt (Sir H.) n. 86, 118.

Players, see Actors.

Play-houses, see Theatres.

Plays, 88.

Pole, Cardinal, 66.

296

Index.

Pomerania, Dukes of, 66, n. no.
Poor Knights of Windsor, 16.
Pope, James I's horror of the, n. 77.
Population of England (1592), 50; of

London in 1610, n. 132.
Porpoises, 48.
Post-horses, see Horses.
Prague, battle of, 149 ; riot at, n. 1 20.
Preaching at Paul's Cross, 178.
Princes, German, xxviii-xxx.
Printing in England, 83.
Progresses, Royal, 14, n. 32.
Pronunciation of Latin, xxxvi.
Protestant Princes of Germany, cxii,

&c. 59.
Public Schools, Oxford, 29.
Puckeridge, 108.

" Puppet-show " at Eltham, n. 84.
Purchas's Voyages, xiii, xx, xxi.
Puritans, in.

Queenborough, n. 67.

Queen's College, Cambridge, 38, 63.

Queen's College, Oxford, 24, 25, 135.

Rabbits, 32, 50, 51, 108, n. 65.

Racing, n. 89.

Raleigh (Sir W.) n. 70, 86, 109, 116.

Ramsay (Sir J.) 1 19.

Rathgeb (J.) lv, lvi, Ixxxix, &c, 3, &c.

Reading Palace, 11-13, n. 27.

Records at Whitehall, n. 103.

Regiomontanus (J.) n. 84.

Rehdiger, (C.) visit to England, 103.

Relations (Venetian) of England, xi,

xliii.
Religion, Travellers', xxii.
Retainers, 13, n. 30.
Rich, Lord, 65, n. 100.
Richard Ill's " bed-sted," 140.
Richardot, President, 119.
Richmond, Duchess of, n.> 72.
Richmond Palace, xlv, 128, 134, 172,

n. 133-

Riding-masters, n. 102.
Rindfleisch (D.) album of, xxxii.
Roast meats, no.
Robbers, 49, 112, n. 63.
Rochester, liii, 66, 132, n. 61, 190.
Rogers (D.) 103.
Rome, jubilee at, 1599, xci.
Rope-dancing, 124.
Rosamond, Fair, 109.
Rosemary, 18, n. 39,
Rotispen (A.) n. 84.
Rovida, Senator, 119.
Royal Barge, n. 56.
Royal Exchange, 8, 133, 171, n. 17.
Royston, 62, n. 87,94.
Rozmital (Leo von) Travels in Eng-
land, xxxiii, xxxviii-xl, n. 1, 20, 1 1 7.
Rudeness towardsforeigners,xlvii,n.l3.
Rudolph II, lxxxviii.
Rudth (C.) Travels in England, 1 1 3.
Running at the ring, 62.
Rushes on floors, 104.
Ryther (A.) n. 29, 43.

Sack, xvii, n. 20.

Sackfield (T.) an actor, civ.

Saddles, 5.

Saffron Walden, 64, n. 97.

Saige, Captain, 31, 48.

St. Anthoine (Mons.) 65, n. 102.

St. Denis, monuments at, 84.

St. Domingo, taken, n. 116.

St. George's Day, 59, n. 33.

St. James " Ginney Hens," 140.

St. James's Palace, 94, 100, 133, 161,

162.
St. James's Park, 47, 62, 99, 100.
St. John's College, Cambridge, 40, 63.
St. John's College, Oxford, 29.
St. Paul's Cathedral, 8, 132, 177, 178,

n. 16, 36.
St. Paul's School, 171.
St. Stephen's Chapel, 98.

Inde.

297

Salander (Dr.) 108, n. 7.

Salisbury, Earls of, genealogy, 135,
[see also " Cecil."]

Salisbury Cathedral, liv.

Sanders, the Jesuit, m.

Sandilands (Sir J.) 66, n. 108.

Sandwich, curious custom at, xxxix.

Sandy country, 31.

Sannazaro, verses by, 1 22.

Sansovino, on English eating, n. in,

Santiago, taken, n. 116.

Saris (J.) Captain, ex.

Sattler, Wirtemberg historian, Ix.

Saviour, portrait of the, 134, n. 135.

Saxe- Weimar, Duke of, Travels in Eng-
land, 147-167, n. 38, 62, 71, 85,

97-
Saxfield (T.) an actor, civ.

Saxton's maps, n. 29.
Scarlet dye, n. 84.

Schassek's character of the English,
xxxviii, xl.

Schickhart (H.) xci.

Scot (Reginald) n. 2, 64.

Scot (Sir Thomas) n. 2.

Scotland, cxiii, 145.

Scots, described by Cardan, 1.

Scott (Thomas) B. D., on Gondomar,
n. 146.

Scurvy, no.

Sea-sickness, 3, n. 1.

Seager, (F.) 144.

Secretaries, foreign, exxiv, exxv.

Selman, a cut-purse, executed, n. 123.

Servants, 14, 70, no.

Serving men, n. 30.

Shakespeare, on Foreign Travel, xvii,
xviii ; " cosen garmombles " (Duke of
Wirtemberg), xciv-ciii ; plays acted
at Sierra Leone, cxi ; J " Othello "
acted in 1610, cxviii-cxix, 61 ; did
Kiechel see him ? 89 ; " German
clocks," n. 10 ;]" Ruffs and Cuffs,"

n. 14; "Coronation chair,' - n. 25 ;
"Dead Indian," n. 40; "Bed of
Ware," n. 53 ; plays performed at
the "Globe," n. 56; "Kissing,"
n. 117; "Wigs,"n. 118; touching
for the " Evil," n. 142.
Sheep, 20, 3 o, 3 1 , 5 1 , 70, 1 09.
Ships, 7, 48, 49, 66, 127, 132, n.61 ;
Drake's ship, n. 62 ; submarine ship,
n. 84.
Shooter's Hill, xlv, n. 63.
Shrewsbury, Earl of, 119.
Sidney-Sussex College, 42, 63.
Sierra Leone, Shakespeare's plays per-
formed at, cxi.
"Sights" in England, 137-140, n. 56,

. 137-
Sincerus (J.) see Zinzerling.
Singing, xlv, 145.
Sitschitz (Jo. de) 135, n. 136.
Sittingbourne, 6, 66, 131, 132.
Slavata (W.) 103, 105, 113, n. 120.
Smith (W.) MS. description of England,

n. 6, 7, 12, 61.
Smithfield, 107, n. 16, 31.
Smoking, n. ;6.
Soil, 109.
Soldiers, 50.
Solingen swords, n. 26.
Solms (P. von) Ixvii.
Somerset House, 93, 117, 162, 163,

166, n. 39.
Sorbiere (Mons.) Travels in England,

n. 13.
Southampton, Earl of, 118.
Spain, peace with (1604), 120, &c, n.

128.
Spaniards in England, x, xi, n. 13.
Spanish Armada, 4, 13, 49, n. 29, 86.
Spanish ladies in England, n. 98, 99.
Spanish ship captured by Drake, 89.
Spencer, Lord, embassy to Stuttgart,
lxxvii, &c.

<?.<*.

298

Index.

Spencer (Sir R.) 66, n. 107.

Spenser (E.) liv.

Spilman (Sir J.) lxxii.

Spire, lxxiv.

Sports before the Lord Mayor, 107,

108.
Stade, Ambassador, 9, n. 19; Stadian

freebooters, lvii.
" Stag'' [Inn] at Ware, 62.
Stage, see Theatres.
Stags, 17, 154.

"Stammbiicher," albums, xxxi-xxxiii.
Starschedel (O.) 144, 145.
Steelyard, n. 19.
Stokenchurch, 20.
Stone of Westminster Abbey, 132.
Storms in England, ]ix, ix, n. 64.
Strete (G.) n. 149.
Strziela (D.) n. 7.

Stuttgart, xxxix, lxxvii, lxxxv, cxxvii.
Submarine vessel, n. 84.
Suffolk, Ear) of, 119, 135, n. 97.
Sugar, 104, no, n. 20.
Sully, Duke of, n. 102.
Sunday, 104, &c.
Suniga, see Zuniga.
Sussex, Earl of, 119.
Swans, xlvi, 6, n. 8.
Sweets, fondness for, n. zo.
Swine, 51.
Swords, 10, n. 26.
Symons, (R.) n. 27.

" Table," old word for Picture, 159.

Tablecover at Hampton Court, 18.

Tailed Englishmen, xlvii.

Tankards, 8, n. 18.

Tapestries, 17, 18, 89,-167, n. 38,

Tassis, see Villamediana.

Taster, 106.

Telescopes, n. 84.

Temple (The) n. 154.

Tetzel (G.) xxxix.

Thames, 6,7, 48, n. 12, 60; Thames

Ferry, 60.
Theatres, 88, 89, 133, n. 56.
Theobalds Palace, 44, 45, 62, 64, 1 28-

I 35> I 49-'5S J l6 3> i7 2 . n -S4>!3 6 -
Theobalds Road, n. 54.
Thermometer, n. 84.
Thetford, 63, n. 78, 91.
Thieves, n. 123.
Thirty years' war, cxviii, n. 1 20.
Thomson (Richard) of Cambridge, 63,

n. 88.
Thorpe (J.) surveyor, n. 54.
" Three Swans," The, n. 40.
Throne at Hampton Court, 18.
Thynne (F.) n. 109.
Tilt-boat, n. 7.

Tobacco, 145, n. 56, 116, 141.
" Tom a Lincolne," 1 39.
Tooker(W.) n. 1 42.
Toto delNunziata (A.) n. 85.
Touching for the Evil, see Evil.
Touchstone table, 45.
Tower of London, xlvi. ; 19,20,133,

167, n. 42.
Tradespeople, 7.
Tragedians, see Actors.
Travel talk, handbooks of, xxxiii.
Travelling, precepts for, xxi, &c. ; in

England, lix, 133.
Trevisano (A.) Embassy to England,

xliii, n. 13.
Trinity College, Cambridge, 41, 62,

»35-
Trinity College, Oxford, 28.
Trumbull (Elizabeth) cxxxi.
Tumblers, 124.
Turler, Remarks on England, xxvii, 81-

84.
Turner (W.) on Queen Elizabeth, n.

122.
Tymme (T.) n. 84.

Index.

299

Unicorn's horn, xlii, 17, 134, 139,

\73> n. 33. 37-

Union of Protestant Princes, cxii, &c.

Universities, see Cambridge and Ox-
ford.

Upnor Castle, n. 61.

Uxbridge, 20.

Vanderdort (A.) death of, cxxx.

Vandyke (Sir A.) n. 84, 102.

Van Meteren, see Meteren.

Vega (Lope de) n. 128.

Velasco (A. de) 65, n. 99.

Veksco, Constable of Castile, banquet
to, 1 15-124, n. 97, 1 17, 128.

Velvet worn, 8.

Venetian Ambassadors, xliii, xlv, n.
74 ; Relations of England, xi ; Ve-
netian gentleman's dancing, xlvi.

Venus, picture of, 134, 173.

Verius (A.) 59, n. 75.

Vigo, Drake at, n. 116.

Villamediana, Count, embassy to Eng-
land, 118, &c. n. 4, 20, 127.

Vine-garden at Westminster, n. 95.

Virginals, 61, n. 28, 1 18.

Virginia, Drake at, n. 116.

Vizards, worn by ladies, 73.

Waggons, 14.

Walpole (Horace) x, 103, n. 39.

Ware, 43 ; "Great Bed" of, 62, n.

53-.
Warwick, 139, n. 135.

Washing feet, 132.

Washing hands, 118, 122, 151, n.

144.
Water-carriers, n. 18.
Water-engines, n. 84.
Water supply in London, 8.
Water-works at Hampton Court, 1 9.
Wax effigies in Westminster Abbey,

164, n. 151.

Weather in England, 50.
Weckherlin (G. R.) memoir of, cxxiii-

cxxxii.
Weelkes (T.) n. 37.
Weimar, 149.
Welsh language, 71.
Wensin (D.) cviii.
Westminster, 91-100, 175-178, n. 12;

Palace at, 47, 98.
Westminster Abbey, 9, 10, 60, 132,

'39' l 77> 1 7%> n. 24, 81 ; wax

effigies in, 164, n. 151.
Westminster College, 33.
Westminster Hall, 96.
Whalebones, Whitehall, 140.
" White Bear" Inn, 87.
Whitehall Palace, 94, 99, 132, 1 59-

16 1, 164-166, 171, n. 150, 153.
Whitehall whalebones, 140.
Whitgift, Archbishop of Canterbury,

21,33-
Widemarkter (G.) 144, 155.
Wigs, n. 118.
Wilkins, Bishop, n. 84.
William of Durham, n. 47.
William III, n. 142.
Willoughby, Lord, 58, n. 69.
Willughby (F.) on dotterels, n.94;

on cormorants, n. 95.
Wilson (Sir T.) n. 103.
Winchester College, 25.
Windsor, xxxiii, xli, xlii, lxxxiv, 14-

l 9> r 34, '39, 1 7 2 > '73, n - z 7, 33,

5 8 -
Wines, xliv, cxxix, cxxx, 9, 52, 109,

n. 20, 56.
Winnenberg, Baron, 5, n. 3.
Winslow, 3 1 .

Winstanley's Audley End, n. 97.
Winwood (Sir'R.) n. 75.
Wirtemberg, Frederick, Duke of, Tra-
vels in' England, and memoir, lv-
ciii, 1-53.

3°°

Index.

Wirtemberg, Frederick Achilles, Duke

of, cviii, cix.
Wirtemberg, John Frederick, Duke of,

cxii, cxiv, cxxi.
Wirtemberg, Lewis Frederick, Prince

of, Travels in England, and memoir,

cxii-cxxi, 55-66.
Wirtemberg ducats, lxxxiii, lxxxiv.
Wirtemberg ladies, portraits of, 163.
Witches, 50, 11. 64.
Wives, 72, 73 ; apparel, n. 14.
" WolfFsklingen "-swords, 10, n. 26.
Wolsey, Cardinal, 99, n. 33, 38, 117.
Wolves, 20, 32, 50, 140.
Women of England, xxviii, xlviii, 7, 14,

6 7-73. 8 9> 9°> n - !5> 3i» 49> 5 6 >

[see also "Ladies."]
Wood, cormorant keeper, n. 95.
Woodstock, 108, 109, 135, 172, n.

124.
Woodville (Elizabeth) xl, xli.
Worcester, Earl of, 119.
Wotton, Baron, 119.
Wotton (Sir H.) lxv.
Wurmsser (H. J.) cxiv-cxv, 57.

Yeomen of the Guard, 87, 88, 106.

Zedlitz, Baron, 178.

Zinzerling ( J.) Description of'England,

xxxvii, IZ9-135.
Zuiiiga (Don P. de) 65, n. 98.

THE END.

CHISWICK PRESS : — PRINTED BY WHITTINGHAM AND WILKINS,
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