MICHELIN ILLUSTRATED GUIDES
II^aI fO THE BATTLEFIELDS (1914-1918)
SOISSONS
BEFORE AND DURING THE WAR
HICHELIN & Ci» —I CLERMONT
MICHEUK TYRE C" L"i - «ii, Fulhiim Road,
MICHELIN TIRE Co _ MILLTOWN, N
AND
KDON, S. W
|., U. S. A.
Ii3K
OfotttcU UttttJcrattg ffiihracg
lltt)aca, UStm ^orh
BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME OF THE
JACOB H. SCHIFF
ENDOWMENT FOR THE PROMOTION
OF STUDIES IN
HUMAN CIVILIZATION
1918
Date Due
M i i '/ j"0
n iQqn
1 MMi^a
"T"TO
Key to Arbitrary Signs
ISiii^ Comfortable hotels, with modern,
or modernised installation.
ish Well-manaeed hotels.
[CC] Central Heating
[l] Electric Light.
[B] Bath-room.
[WC] Modem W. C's.
® i- 09 Telephone Number.
[ 'Accommodation for auto-
Shed [30] \ mobiles, and the number
Shelter [201 / °'^ ^^^^ which can be
V put up. •
COMPBESSEO AIR
' Depdt for * bou-
Ifeill^ <l'air Mi-
I chelin * for infla-
.. tioD of tsrrei.
f1^ Repair shop.
Agl Manufacturer s' agent.
[20] Garage and number of can it
will hold. ^
[U] IhBpection pit.
[Ej PetroKgasoline) can be obtained
here.
[E"] Accumulators can be recharged
here.
HOTELS
iSldSI de U Croix d'Or, 25-27, rut Salnl-Chrlilophe, [CCJ [L] [B] [WC] Shelter [20]
lU]®t,09.
fljLB du Lion Rouge, /. rue de la Gars and 2, rue JesCharlins (near place A la
RipubUque), [CC] [L] [B] [WC] Shed [30] [Ul.
MOTOR-AGENTS
*r^ STOCK MICHELIN {COmPRESSEO AIR) Auto - Garace Soinonnaia
(L. Reaee), //, rue da Feuillants. Agl for : de Dion, Renault, Philoi, [20]
[U] [E] ©70. '
— STOCK MICHELIN {COH/IPRESSED AIR) Papol, 96, baaleoard Jeanne.
iArc. Agtfor.: Peugeot, Berliet, Brasier. [10] [Ul [E] [E"] ® 4-14.
— Ch. L, Beck, Engineer (Garage Modeme), 55, aoenue de la Care. [80] [U]
[E][E"].
— Faivre, 7, rue du College and 8, rue du Gineral-Pille. Agl for : Peugeot, [25]
■, tE][E"].
17he abooe information dates from ^XCarcfi ht. J9I9, and matf no longer
be exact when it meets the reqders eye. 'Courisis are therefore recommended to consult
the latest edition of the * JlXichelin Guide to France '* iEnglisH or French}, befoie
setting out on the tour described in this volume.
THE MICHELIN TOURING OFFICES
at: 99, ^ouleoard Pereire, PARtS and
8U Fttlham %oad, Chelsea, LONDON,
S. W, 3., will be pleased to furnish motorists
with advice and information, free of charge.
= Special itineraries free, on request. =
lou don t know
what a
Good Road Map
is, if you haven't used the
Michelin Map
HE tourist finds his way
about easily in town,
if he has a plan giving
the names of the streets.
He gets about with the same ease
and certainty on the road, if he has
a Michelin map, because it gives
all the road numbers on the milestones
and road-signs.
ivf-
The Michelin Wheel"
BEST of all detachable wheels
because the least complicated
Elegant '
It embellishes even the finest coachwork.
Simple
It is detachable at the hub and fixed by six
bolts only.
Strong
The only wheel which held out on all fronts
during the War.
Practical
Can be replaced in 3 minutes by anybody
and cleaned' still quicker,
It prolongs the life of tyres by cooling them.
AND THE CHEAPEST
IN MEMORY
OF THE MICHELIN WORKMEN AND EMPLOYEES
WHO DIED GLORIOUSLY FOR THEIR COUNTRY
Cornell University Library
DC 801.S65S68 1919
Solssons before and during the war.
3 1924 028 193 906
SOISSONS
BEFORE AND DURING THE WAR
PUBLISHED BY
MICHELIN &■ 0», CLERMONT-FERRAND (France).
Copyright 1919 by Michelin & C".
All rights of translallon, aJaplalion or reproduclion (in pari or whole)
reseroed in all countries. ' ' ' i
SOISSONS
ORIGIN AND CHIEF HISTORICAL EVENTS
Soissons derives its name from the Suessiones, a Belgian tribe who
inhabited that part of the country during tlie Gallic period. At that
time the City, then known as Noviodunum, was situated about two
and a half miles north-west of the Aisne on the Pommiers Plateau.
After Csesar's conquest of the country, the city was rebuilt on the
banks of the Aisne, under the name of Augusta Suessionum. Of the
Gallo-Roman epoch, only a small portion of the city ramparts (p. 32)
remains, but excavations have brought to light the site of a large
theatre (p. 51), and at the Mail, the foundations of what were luxu-
rious villas. The greater part of the objects unearthed are in the
Museum (p. 41), with the exception of the famous group « Le Niobide
et son Pedagogue », now in the Louvre.
Christianity was first preached in Soissons at the end of the 3rd
century, by two shoemakers, the brothers Crispin and Crispinian,
who suffered martyrdom there.
Soissons played an important part throughout the whole of the
Prankish Monarchy. It was at its gates that in 486, Clovis won a
decisive victory over the last Roman Count, Syagrius, thus causing
the downfall of Roman domination in Gaul. It was after this vic-
tory that the famous episode of the Soissons Vase occurred.
The Prankish King lived for a long time in the city, and at his death
in 511, Soissons became the capital of the kingdom of one of his sons,
Clolaire I, who ultimately became sole king of the Pranks. Later,
Soissons once more became a separate kingdom under Chilperic,
and again-, under Clolaire II (561-613). During this period, the ri-
valry of Brunehaui and Frddigonde gave rise to sanguinary episodes
in Soissons and the surrounding country.
In the 8th century, Soissons witnessed the fall of the Merovingian
dynasty. In 752, Pepin-le-Bref was proclaimed King by an assembly
of nobles in the monastery of Saint-M6dard (p. 61).
In the same abbey, in 833, the emperor Louis-le-Dibonnaire, was
deposed and imprisoned by his rebel sons, after they had forced him
to make a public confession in the church of the monastery.
In 923, under the walls of Soissons, Charles-le-Simple fought a
battle with his rival Robert, Duke of the Pranks. In this battle,
Charles was taken prisoner and lost his throne, which passed to the
powerful House of Prance, whence sprang the Capetian dynasty.
Throughout the Middle-Ages, religious life was intensely active
at Soissons. At that time, the City comprised six large monasteries, in
addition to the Cathedral and several churches or coUegiates. It
was none the less a lay fief with the rank of county, which in 1131
obtained a communal charter under Louis-le-Gros, and on the ac-
cession of Francis I, became definitely part of the crown lands.
Situated on the main roads of invasion, Soissons has always been
one of the advance posts which protect Paris. For this reason, it
has suffered numerous sieges, most of them disastrous, owing to the
unfavourable situation of the city, which lies in a plain surrounded
by hills. It was taken and pillaged in 1414 by the troops of Charles
VI, in 1544 by Charles-Quint, and in 1567 by the Protestants. In
1814, during the French campaign, it was conquered by the Russians
and Prussians, whilst in 1815, after "Waterloo, it had to re-open its
gates to the Allies.
In 1870, a German Army of 20 000 men laid siege to Soissons on
September 11. The garrison of 5 000 soldiers which held the tQwn
refused to surrender, and attempted several unsuccessful sorties.
Posted on the surrounding heights, the German artillery violently
bombarded the town, setting fire to some of the suburbs, the hospital,
and part of the military commissariat established in the old Abbey
of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes. A breach was finally made in the fortifi-
cations, and on October 16, after a siege of thirty-seven days, the city
was forced to surrender.
During the late war, Soissons was twice occupied by the Germans :
in 1914, from September 2 to 13, and in 1918, from May 29 to August
2, after the surprise attack at the Chemin-des-Dames (See pp. 4 & 7).
DESCRIPTIVE SUMMARY
Soissons, sub-prefecture of the Aisne, was formerly fortified, but
was dismantled after the Franco-German war of 1870. Before the
late War, its population numbered 14 458.
The city proper remained confined within the narrow limits of its
ancient walls. It is bounded on the east by the River Aisne, on the
south by the small stream Crise, on the west by the Boulevard Jeanne
d'Arc which follows the line of the old ramparts, and on the north by
the rue Saint-L6ger, near which may be seen (close to the tennis court)
part of the remains of the old fortifications {See plan, p. 12).
Beyond, lie the faubourgs : to the west and south, the modern fau-
bourgs of Saint-Christophe, Crise, and Rheims ; to the east, on the
right bank of the Aisne, the old faubourgs : Saint- Waast (named
after the Bishop who converted Clovis to Christianity), and Saint-
M6dard (after the Bishop who was buried there during the Merovin-
gian epoch).
Before the War, Soissons was an important provision centre for
Paris (corn and haricot beans). In its suburbs were numerous indus-
trial concerns : boiler manufactories, mechanical workshops and va-
rious factories, distilleries, sugar-refineries, etc...
SOISSONS
IN THE 16th
CBNTITRY.
Model (1560) heft m the CatJiedrol. Inside the baltlemented
wHU, m eollegiates or abbeys were growped around the Cathedrat
FIRST GERMAN OCCUPATION
'ice occupied by the Germans (1914 & 1918), Soissons was two and a half years in the front line
THE GERMAN OCCUPATION IN 1»14
After the battle of Charleroi, despite the vigorous and determined
counter-offensive launched from Guise to Saint-Quentin on August 29-
30, the Franco-British Armies continued their retreat southwards.
During the evening of August 31, the Valabregue group of reserve
divisions holding the Vauxaillon-Latfaux-Vaudesson sector, and
acting as flank-guard to the French 5th Army, remained as a cover-
ing force to the north-east of Soissons. It was not, however, intended
to defend the town, and the only object in resisting the enemy at this
point was to cover the French retirement and ensure the safe passage
of the Aisne. Soissons thus became momentarily of primary im-
portance. Large detachments of enemy cavalry wedged themselves
between the British and French Armies, and advancing from Noyon
towards Soissons, became a formidable menace to the French retire-
ment across the Aisne.
During the night of August 31, a cavalry division was ordered to
proceed with all despatch from Craonne to Soissons. Next morning
a portion of this division took up a position north of the town, in the
neighbourhood of Cuffies, with orders to hold it so long as the reserve
divisions east of the town had not crossed the Aisne. The remainder
halted on the Bellcu Hills, with a view to guarding the river on either
side of the town. At about 10 a. m., the enemy came within sight
of Soissons and was brought to a standstill for two hours by French
cavalry and cyclist scouts. Early in the afternoon, the rearguard
of the holding force being informed that the French army had suc-
ceeded in crossing the Aisne, retired in an orderly manner towards
Septmonls and Buzancy.
On September 2, the Germans occupied the town, but though they
levied heavy requisitions, did not commit any act of pillage or van-
dalism.
THE FIGHT FOR SOISSONS
DEAD HOKSES
BELONGING TO
PHLANS, IN THE
PLACE DE
L'HOTEL-DE-VILLE
IN 1914.
THE GERMAN EVACUATION
Alter the victory of the Marne, the French 6th Army on the Ourcq,
keeping toucli with the British on the right, advanced towards the
Aisne. On September 11, tlie townspeople showed signs of uneasiness.
The 45th Division, which formed the right wing of General Mau-
noury's Army, was marching up the Ourcq and Saviere valleys
against Soissons, having crushed the enemy's attempted resistance
at Chaudun.
On the following day, African troops, assisted by the fire of British
artillery stationed at Buzancy, entered the town. As the bridges
had been blown up by the retreating enemy, the night had to be spent
in the construction of foot-bridges, the work being carried out under
fire from the German heavy artillery.
On September 13, the Zouaves and Tirailleurs, under the command
of General Quiquandon, attacked Hill 132, which dominates Soissons
on the immediate north, but were unable to eject the strong enemy
detachments there. Repeated attacks on September 14, 17, 23 and
30 were not more fortunate. The Germans could not be dislodged
from these hills which, on account of their many deep quarries and
horizontal shafts, formed natural fortresses, and gave them a vantage
ground for the indiscriminate bombardment of Soissons.
These bombardments will be dealt with further on. They aimed almost
exclusively at the destruction of the town, and as they served no military
purpose, they need not be included in this account of the military operations.
FRENCH EFFORTS TO FREE SOISSONS
The destructive bombardment of the town continuing, the French
High Command decided, at the beginning of January 1915, to make
another attempt to free Soissons.
On January 8, a battalion of Chasseurs and one of Moroccan Sharp-
shooters, supported by men of the 55th Division, attacked and
succeeded in gaining the top of the north-east hill, thus obtaining
a footing on Spur 132 (see map., p. 53).
On the 12th, the Germans attacked violently in front of Crouy
and Hill 132, at a time when the Aisne floods had carried away the foot-
bridges, and threatened to cut the French communications, which
at the time depended solely on the Saint-Waast bridge.
Alter a fierce struggle which lasted till nightfall, the French lost
the line, along the hills north of the town. A division of the 7th
b SOISSONS CLEARED OF THE ENEMY
Corps was thrown into the battle, and by a brilliant attack recaptur-
ed part of ridge 132. However, as the communications with the left
bank of the Aisne were becoming more and more precarious, it receiv-
ed orders to cover the general retreat decreed by General Mau-
noury. On the night of the 13th, the French retired across the Aisne
leaving only one strongly fortified bridge-head between the distillery
and Saint-Paul on the northern bank (see pp. 56 & 61).
From the 14th onwards, the Germans commenced attacking the
bridge-head in massed formation. They succeeded for a moment
in getting into the little hamlet of Saint-Paul, about a mile from the
first houses of Soissons, but they were driven out on the same day.
On the 16th, enemy bombardment compelled a fresh party of the
townspeople to leave their homes. After further fruitless endeavours
the Germans abandoned their attacks, and the relative calm of trench
warfare set in again in this sector.
LIBERATION OF SOISSONS IN 1911
Until March 1917, the opposing lines underwent no further important
modifications. Here and there, however, their defences had been
considerably strengthened by redoubts, concrete machine-gun emplace-
ments and very formidable barbed-wire entanglements.
The second itinerary (pp. 52-64) will enable (hose interested to inspect
parts of these lines, which form a rough semi-circle around Soissons and
are quite close to the city.
The German retirement in March 1917 along both banks of the Oise,
covered only a very small extent of, ground in the neighbourhood of
Soissons, which formed the pivot of the manoeuvre.
The new front was less than five miles behind the old one and, though
the town remained within easy range of the German heavy artillery,
bombardment was less frequent than before.
From March 17, the Germans abandoned their trenches at Crouy
and on Hill 132, but tried to stem the French forward push. They
launched violent counter-attacks between Vregny and Margival, and
the French advanced only step by step to the first trenches of the
redoubtable Hindenburg line. By the end of the month, they had
scarcely advanced beyond Neuville-sur-Margival and Leuilly. On
April 1, they attacked along the line of the Ailette-Laon road, and
reached the outskirts of Laffaux and Vauxaillon. The French occu-
pied this last village and Vauxeny during the following days, but their
advance went no further.
On April 16, the 6th Army under General Mangin attacked in con-
junction with the 5th Army on the east. This offensive was only
partly successful. To the north-east of Soissons, where the first Colo-
nial Corps was in action, the French made but little progress, and
failed to take the Moisy Farm Plateau. Laffaux was alternately taken
and lost, and was only definitely occupied on the 19th. At dawn on
May 5, a new offensive was started along the whole front south-east
of Vauxaillon Moisy Farm and Laffaux Mill were taken by the
French Colonials and Cuirassiers on foot, and held despite numerous
fierce counter-attacks. The next day, they advanced yet further
north of the mill. The Germans, who could not resign themselves
to the loss of these key positions, made repeated endeavours to
retake them and the Soissons sector became " a new Verdun. " On
October 23 1917, General Maistre ordered a vigorous offensive, and
while the s'sth division (General de Salins) captured the Malmaison
fort the 21st Corps (General Degoutte) captured with a single rush
SECOND GERMAN OCCUPATION
the villages of Allemant and Vaudesson... On the 25th, the French
occupied the village and forest of Pinon and reached the line of
the canal between the Oise and the Aisne. Soissons was now quite
cleared.
THE GERMAN OCCUPATION IN 1918
In 1918, Soissons had again to face the horrors of invasion. On
May 27 1918, after the failure of the two German offensives against
Paris and Amiens, the Crown Prince threw his divisions forward in
a formidable attack along the Aisne Front. The Germans, taking full
advantage of the surprise which gave them an absolute numerical
superiority, crossed the Chemin-des-Dames in the early hours of the
morning. Then, while east of Soissons they were crossing the Aisne
in the direction of Vailly and advancing along the left bank of the
river as far as the Vesle, they made progress to the north-east in
the direction of the undulating plains which sheltered the town.
On the 28th, despite the bitter resistance of the few French units
in this sector, they succeeded in getting a footing in the plains of
Vregny and Crouy, and crept along the southern bank of the Aisne
to the very gates of Soissons, the east and south-east suburbs of which
this converging movement enabled them to attain.
The next day, May 29, they captured the suburbs of Saint- Waast and
Saint-M6dard on the right bank. Then a party of Brandeburg sappers,
advancing in front of the attacking force, captured the bridges, and
prevented the French from destroying them. About noon, the Ger-
mans entered the town, and after street-fighting which lasted several
hours, drove back the French into the western suburbs. The French
however, still held Pasly Hill to the north-east of Soissons. Throughout
the night, French artillery bombarded the approaches of the town and
all the places where the Aisne could be crossed, while enfilading fire from
o GERMAN PII.I.AGINa
the machine guns prevented the German soldiers from using the streets.
Not until nine o'clock on the morning of the 30th did the enemy cap-
ture Pasly Hill and thus secure entire possession of Soissons.
For two days the French clung desperately to the western ap-
proaches of the town, but to the south, the Germans established
themselves in the angle formed by the Aisne and the Crise, and suc-
ceeded in capturing Vierzy and Chaudun. The French positions
were thus taken in the rear, and had to be abandoned, step by step,
after stubborn fighting.
The arrival of reinforcements, at the beginning of June, enabled
the French definitely to check the enemy, who by this time was ex-
hausted. Though the Germans launched many violent attacks west
of Soissons, they were unable to advance beyond the Ambl^ny-
Longpont line, six or seven miles from the town, which left the Allies
free possession of the Paris road through Villers-Cotterets Wood.
During the second period of occupation, which lasted from May 29
till August 2, the Germans systematically pillaged the city. Every
house was emptied of its contents. Before being despatched to Ger-
many, the plunder was centra-
lized in certain places indica-
ted by signs bearing the words
"Zur Beutesammelstelle" (to
the booty -collecting -centre),
with an arrow {photo opposite).
Objects which, by reason of
their weight or bulk, could
not be transported, were des-
troyed or spoilt.
From July 18 onwards, General Mangin successfully attacked the
right flank of the German Army, with the result that on August 2,
Soissons was once more in French__hands. At 6 p. m. on that day,
French Chasseurs under General" Vuillemot crossed the burning
town and reached the Aisne bridges, beyond which, in the Saint-Waast
suburb, the enemy rear-guard- made a last stand (photo p. 9 .
One of the pivots of the wedge driven between the Marne and the
Aisne by the German Armies, had given way, and the enemy was
soon forced to retire as far as the Vesle.
Sarcophagus in
the Cathedral
broken open by
the Germans.
SrANQlN'S ARMY RECAPTURES SOISSONS
FRENCH REPLY TO GERMAN HLLAQING.
The first French soldiers to enter Saissons on August 2, ] 91 8,
« pillaged » a German kitchen-garden, in which a notice
signed by the Kcmmandantur
prohibited the entry of troops other than the 3rd. Co. of the 43rd regt.
of Field Artillery.
The offensive was stayed for a moment in front of the strong hill
positions on the nortli bank of the Aisne, where the Germans had
entrenclied tliemselves. An intense bombardment then completed
tlie city's ruin. The Frencli advance began again at the end of
August. On the 30th and 31st, Cuffies and Crouy were retaken
while on the following days the battle continued furiously on the
heights north and east of Soissons. General Mangin's Army succeed-
ed in advancing as far as the plains of Vauxaillon, Laffaux and Vre-
gny, whence it soon dislodged the enemy.
THE ENEMY'S LAST EFFORTS AT RESISTANCE.
German barricade at the exit of the Pont des Anglais in the faubourg S-jint-Waast, August 191 S
10
THE BOMBARDMENTS OF SOISSONS
THE BOMBARDMENTS OF SOISSONS
As soon as they were driven out of Soissons in September 1914,
tlifi enemy proceeded to bombard the city. During the latter part
of September, (he cannonade was incessant, the fire being directed
successively on
all the different
quarters and pu-
blic buildings, in-
cluding the hos-
pital filled with
wounded.
After a short
lull, the bombard-
ment continued
with great vio-
lence throughout
January 1915.
On January 8,
thePalais de Jus-
tice was set on
fire, and on the
9th, the Cathedral
was struck by 42
shells. On January 14, the shelling lasted all day, and until the end
of February, the firing continued with the same intensity and almost
without^pause. The Cathedral was systematically aimed at, as is proved
by the note-book belonging to the Kommandant of the " Ringkanon-
enbatterie " posted north-east of Soissons on Hill 132, which fell
into the Allies' hands.
On January 31, he wrote: "The battery fired nineteen rounds of
percussion and fuze shells at the Cathedral. The tower and nave
were hit several times, and the beginning of a fire was noticed In the
nave. So far, we have not been able to do much damage to the
tower..." On February 2, a battery fired twenty-nine rounds of
shrapnel at the Cathedral, and in particular at the tower, sixteen of
which hit the mark. On February 25, twenty-one shells were fired
at the same target. As for the town itself, another 200 rounds were
fired into it on February 28. The bombardrnent slackened later,
but began again at intervals, without any apparent reason and
with varying in-
tensity. It was
continued until
the middle of
March 1917, when
the German with-
drawal from the
Somme to the
Aisne freed Sois-
sons, which could
now only be rea-
ched by the long-
range guns. How-
ever aeroplanes
frequently drop-
ped incendiary
bombs on the city.
See Itinerary, p. 52.
11
TRENCH
iS THE
BOTJLEVA-KD
JEANSE-D'AEO
LIFE IN SOISSONS FROM 1914 TO lot's
A thirty-months' Siege.
From September 1914 to March 1917, while the Germans remained
at the gates of^the city, the latter was veritably besieged. Notwith-
standing the increasing destruction caused by the shells, the civil popu-
lation continued bravely to "carry on" Part of the population
refused to leave the city, while here and there, on the walls that were
left standing, printed notices announced the fact that^the house was
still occupied. Then followed the names of the courageous inmates.
During the bombardments, the people took shelter in the cellars, only
to resume their ordinary dally occupations as soon as the firing ceased.
The public services continued to work normally. Many shops were
kept open, and an hotel was available for the travellers who arrived
by the night omnibus that linked up the city with Vierzy, the nearest
point on the railway.
In parts of the city, it was only possible to get about by making use
of the communication trenches which ran along the side of the roads.
One such trench ran the whole length of the Boulevard Jeanne d'Arc
{photo above), while others crossed the Town-Hall gardens (See p. 40)
and the streets near the Aisne.
Moreover, getting about was restricted to certain quarters of the
city as, just beyond the centre, the defensive works (barricades, tren-
ches, etc.) began.
These works are
described in the
second Itinerary
(p. 52-64) which
takes the tourist
from the centre of
the town to the first-
line trenches of the
1915rl917 front
{Vauxrot, Saint-
Paul and Saint-
Midard), via the
Mail, Saint- Waast
suburb, etc.
THE OLD
FIRST
rEENOH LINE.
The
Distillery
see p. 56j
12
SOISSONS
POPULATION- 14.458 inhabltanls.
ALTITDDE 180 feet.
SCALE
SO 100 mIo 3)0 4(kl 500 ■
HOTELS ■ "^ ^''*^' ^^ '* ^^"''^ '^'*^'"
■b Hotel du Liiwliouye
.■r;;;:.": streets an(2 roads iniprac-
i.icable fo/ motor-care.
i;i
ITINERARY IN THE CITY (pp. 15-51).
starting from the Cathedral follow the streets (nrf;>a/ed iy continuous
lines, in the direction of the arrows.
The numbers indicate the pages where the corresponding photographs
will be found-
14
PANORAMIC VIEW OF SOISSONS
SOISSONS IN 1914, seen from the Northern Tower of Saini-Jean-des-Vignes Abbey.
The German bombardments made countless ruins throughout
the town. Everywhere one sees shattered walls, hanging roofs, and
heaps of rubbish and stones that once were houses.
The ruins are gradually being cleared away, to make room for the
new life which is springing up, but signs of the destruction will long
remain.
-1
gas
J
^^^^
!ii K^HHlHuffiDI
-i .
■si%
1 ' - ^&mi
ii
'lii/ [ ■- Tj|i"BH
mm ■^PSm
^5
1
SOISSONS IN NOVEMBER 1918.
Noie the separation of the Cathedral Towar fr-om the Nave {pp; 19-24)
THE CATHEDRAL
15
VISIT TO THE CITY AND ITS SURROUNDINGS
(See plan, p. 12 and itineraries, pp. 13&52).
Do not miss : The Cathedral (p. 15) ; the ruins of the Abbey of
Saint-Jean-des-Vignes (p. 44).
Archaeological Curiosities : the Church and Cloister of Saint-
Linger (p. 35) ; THE OLD Church of Saint-Pierre-au-Parvis
(p. 42); THE Crypt of the old Abbey of Saint-M^dard (p. 61).
Other sights : the Maison de l'Arquebuse (p 43). the Museum
(p. 40).
Souvenirs and traces of the war : the ruins in the town, the
Mail (p. 54), the bridges (pp. 55 & 63) the faubourg St Waast
(p. 62), THE military works from Vauxrot to St. Paul (pp. 56-61).
Two itineraries are given, each starting from and returning to
the Cathedral, which include all points of interest in the city and
its environs :
First Itinerary (p. 13) The City (pp. 15-51).
Second Itinerary (p. 52) The Surroundings (pp 53-63).
FIRST ITINERARY — VISIT TO THE CITY
THE CATHEDRAL
In April 1919, visitors entered through the door in the Place du
Cloitre (see pp. 29 & 33).
The Cathedral of Soissons (H.M.) may be considered as a miniature of
THE
CATHEDRAL
IS NOVEMBER
1918.
16
THE CATHEDRAL
THE CATHEDRAL BEFOUE THE "WAR.
The unfinished main front had only one tower
that of Amiens. For the purity ol its lines and simplicity of arran-
gement, it is probably the finest of the secondary Cathedrals in France.
It was very quickly built, of hard Soissons stone, and is peculiar
in that building began at the south arm of the transept, - primitive
Gothic in style, - during the last third of the 12th century. Next were
built, in pointed Gothic, the choir (completed in 1212) then the
nave. The main body of the cathedral was completed in the middle
of the 13th century, with the exception of the high parts of the main
front (on which a single tower was built in the 14th century) and of
the fafade of the north arm of the transept (also 14th century).
The cathedral of Soissons, like that of Arras, has greatly suffered
in its vital parts. The nave, which partly fell in during 1915-1916,
was, with the aisles, entirely destroyed by the end of 1918. The tower,
which, though severely damaged by enemy shell-fire, was still stand-
ing, collapsed at the same time. The transept and choir alone escap-
ed with slight damage.
Principal Fa9ade of the Cathedral.
The West front contains three doorways, finished about 1230,
but disfigured in the 18th century by roughcast, which destroyed their
13th century decoration, since replaced by pseudo-Gothic ornament.
Sec Ilineranj, p. 13.
17
1Y%A:
THE TOWKE IN JUN'E 1915.
The collapse of the multion laid bare the frameworli of the helfry.
Above the large rose-window, set in a tierce-point arch, rises a
graceful gallery composed of double arches surmounted by gables,
which is carried all round the single tower, about 241 feet in height.
The tower comprised on each front two long bays separated by a
raullion. Its later date was noticeable chiefly in the statues of apostles,
saints and bishops, sheltered beneath finely carved canopies, which
ornamented the corner abutments.
Throughout the war, the German gunners made a constant target
of the cathedral tower.
In June 1915, large calibre shells caused the collapse of the great
muUion separating the two bays on the west front, which fell to the
ground, a large breach in the upper part of the tower laying bare the
framework of the belfry" (photo above). The same collapse caused
the fall of almost all the gables of the lower gallery, the left bay of
which had previously been struck by several shells.
Until 1918, no further damage of importance was done to the fa-
fade, but in August of that year, some days after the French had
retaken Soissons, three sides of the tower (north, southland east) and
the interior framework of the belfry were entirely destroyed by the
18
THE INTERIOR OF TI-IK CATHEDRAL
THE TOWER
IN MiEOH
1919.
numerous German shells. In
September 1918, all that remain-
ed of the tower were the two
buttresses at the north-west
and south-west corners. By a
miracle they remain poised, but
loosened stones keep constantly
crashing to the ground (photo
opposite).
All the arches ol the gallery
above the large rose-window
were also destroyed in August
1918.
Interior of the Cathedral.
The cathedral, over 300 feet
in length, comprises :
A Nave with seven bays and
double side-aisles, with chapels
of a later date added to the
last four bays.
A Transept, the south-arm of which ends in a semi-circle, and the
north arm in a straight wall.
A Choir with four bays and a semi-circular Apse surrounded by an
ambulatory, off which open eight rectangular chapels, and, at the
apse, five radial polygonal chapels.
DOORWAY of NORTH
ARM oF TRANSEPT
A M B .'^A,
Ada
'l^/
PLAN or THE CATHEDKAL
A. — Pillar ol the Nave broken in 191.";.
B. — Gallery of the old Cathedral Cloister.
C. — Chapel in the South Arm.
D. — .Vestry Passage (statue of Virgin and Child).
E. — St. Uuffln's Chapel' (17th century statue of the saint).
F. — St. VaWre's Chapel (17th century statue of the saint).
n
See Itinerary, p. 13.
19
The Nave before the Bombardments.
Completed about 1230, the Nave now entirely destroyed - was
regarded before the war as one ot the best examples of the harmonious
simplicity of early 13th century Gothic architecture.
The central vault was about 103 feet in height.
The bays were divided by columns flanked on the side facing the
grand nave by a small engaged shaft. On their fine capitals, deco-
rated with four rows of crockets or foliage, rested the large arches of
the ground floor, and the groups of five small columns whichsupport-
ed the springing of the pointed arches of the vault.
The large arcades were surmounted by a shallow triforium and
high double windows with dividing mullions.
The wide, lofty aisles with windows gave additional light to the
body of the church. Their vaulting was poirtted and terminated at
the last bays in chapels built for the most part in the 18th century.
In the second bay of the north aisle, a gallery (B on plan), the
remains of the old cathedral cloister, gave access to a large chapel
(Chapelle des GEuvres) with two naves of three bays. It was the old
chapter-house, built in the 13th century, by prolonging the west front
but completely remodelled in the 19th century.
THE NAVE
BGFOKE THE
BOMBARDMENTS.
20
DESTRUCTION OF THE NAVE
SOniHERN AISLl
ANB
TRirOMUM,
NOVEMBER
1918.
See Ilinerarij, p. 13.
21
The destruction of the Nave and fall of the Pillar.
Early in February 1915, a projectile, entering by a hole made by
a previous shell in the wall of the south aisle, struck the second column
(A on plan, p. 18) on the left of the main nave, which was broken
in two about 13 feet from the ground (photos pp. 20-21). The upper
part, with the capital and courses supporting the springing of the
vault, gave way, dragging down in its fall a portion of the vault and of
the wall at the back of the triforium.
The ruins accumulated rapidly. By the end of March, the roof
of the grand nave and of the north aisle, which the broken pillar had
sustained, collapsed. The whole of the triforium, the large window,
the flying buttress outside, the framework, and the roofing of the bay
of the aisle also gave way. An enormous breach was made in the
cathedral, and the floor of the nave was covered with a shapeless mass
of broken stones, which increased during the following months.
THE GREAT NAVE AND NORTHERN .USLE, NOVEMBER 19]S.,
Behind the two nianding jtiUars is seen the base of the qnllar which coltapsedin Feb. 1915,
Thejatl islshown on f. 20,
22
COLLAPSE OF THE VAULTING
THE FALLEN
VAULTING
LEFT BAR>
THE DAMAGED
FRAMEWORK
OF THE ROOF.
Sec Ilincrary, p. 13.
23
BREACH
rX THE
NOVBMBEU
1919
The fall of the Vaulting.
The vaults ol the remaining bays, already weakened, could not
withstand the renewed bombardments. One after another they
craslied to the ground, with the exception of those of the first and
seventli bays. Everywhere else, pieces of broken or disjointed
framework, supporting a completely ruined roof, are exposed to
view {pholo above).
Several of the large windows on the north side liave also fallen in
and all the stained glass has been smashed.
24
DESTRUCTION OF THE NAVE
The Final Ruin.
The bombardments of 1918
destroyed the nave beyond
hope of repair.
. Several large pillars collapsed
and a considerable portion of
the upper part of the side
walls, large arches and trlforium
fell in to the right and left.
Three bays near the west
front, with their large arches
and the aisles were complete-
ly destroyed. All this ma-
sonry fell inside the nave,
forming across its entire breadth
a heap of debris more than 19
feet high and about 33 feet
long.
Fragments of vaulting, bases
of pillars, stones from the roof,
were mixed in shapeless chaos
with a quantity of architectural
and sculptured motives, nota-
bly the beautiful capitals and
the key-stones of the vault,
of ruins the roof-timbers of
And on this heap
deprived of all support, fell by degrees in their
mostly broken
the framework,
turn.
The old harmonious construction of the nave is now to be seen
only in the bays nearest the transept.
The Chapelle des GEuvres was struck several times. The most
serious damage was caused during the first bombardments of 1914
by a shell which exploded on the roof of the gallery {B on plan p. 18,
photo below) which leads to the chapel. Penetrating the roof and
the framework, it caused the vault to fall in, broke the arches, and
shattered the stained-glass of the chapel windows.
OALIEEY
GITINa
ACCESS TO THE
CHAPELI/E
DES (ETJVEES,
NOV. 1918.
See lUneiartj, p. 13.
SOUTH
A1!M OF
TRANSEPT.
See the exterior,
p. 2!).
South Arm of the Transept.
The bombardments have spared the south arm of the transept,
a marvel of grace and simphcity, built about 1175, by Bishop Xivelon
of Clierisy. It is the oldest and also the least elevated portion of
the cathedral.
The arm of the transept ends in a semi-circle (a peculiarily which
it shares with those of the old Cathedral of Xoyon and numerous
Rhenish churches) and is surrounded by an ambulatory.
In style it differs distinctly from that of the rest of the building,
and presents the distinguishing features of primitive Gothic.
The triforium — which elsewhere consists only of a narrow gallery
— is here double. It comprises a story of high, wide, arched tribunes,
grouped three and three, surmounted by n narrow passage with grace-
ful colonnettes..
The main vault is supported by six pointed ribs which intersect
in a central key-stone ornamented with six angels.
The south arm of the transept is lighted by three series of windows.
Small semi-circular bays are cut in the wall of the ambulatory. The
galleries are lighted — except on the right, which is ornamented with
rose-windows — by tiercc-point windows in groups of IJirco. Tlicrc
is a final row of high tierce-point windows, also in groups of three, above
the triforium.
26
THE TRANSEPT AND CHOIK
Some of the capitals are masterpieces of ornamental sculpture.
Their decoration consists either of the foliage characteristic of Roma-
nesque capitals (acanthus leaves) or of projecting crockets, — one
of the earliest examples of this distinctive ornament of Gothic capitals.
On the east side of the south arm of the transept there is a two-
storied polygonal chapel (C on plan, p. 18) of the same period. The
keystone of the vault of the lower chapel represents two angels car-
rying the Agnus Dei on a cloth. The upper chapel, in which the Trea-
sure was formerly kept, communicates with the galleries. <
The Choir and Apse.
The choir, where, on the completion of the south arm of the transept.
Bishop Nivelon of Ch^risy continued the building of the Cathedral
(1200-1212), is one of the earliest examples of Pointed Gothic — so-
called on account of the sharp outline of the arches. A notable char-
acteristic of this is the transformation of the wide galleries of the
triforium into a narrow gallery, which gives greater importance to
the wide arches of the ground floor and to the high windows of the
upper story.
Its general plan is similar to that of the nave, built immediately
afterwards : lofty wide arches, narrow triforium, high windows (but
without mullions, forming a single bay), and pointed vaults of rectan-
gular plan.
The Choir is flanked by side-aisles, off which open, on each side
tour rectangular chapels with groined vaults.
The second chapel of the aisle has an inscription recording the
date on which the Canons took possession of the Choir :
Anno milleno biscenteno duodena hunc inlrare chorum
Cepit grex canonicorum tercio idus maii.
■ (In the year 1212, on the third Ides of May, the Canons firs^ took
possession of the Choir).
See Itinerary, p. 13. 27
The south side-aisle communicates with the chapel attached to the
south arm of the transept by a 15th century vaulted corridor (D on
plan p. 18) in which there is a fine 16th century statue of the Virgin
and Infant seated.
The two side-aisles continue round the semi-circular apse, form-
ing an ambulatory surrounded by five shallow radial chapels. The
central chapel is consecrated, as usual, to the Virgin. The pointed
vaults of the chapels unite with those of the ambulatory, eight pointed
ribs meeting in the same keystone.
The choir, scarcely touched by enemy fire up to December 1916,
suffered more serious damage then and in January 1917.
Shells pierced the vault in two places and also penetrated several
parts of the triforium wall, breaking the arches. In the apse, portions
of the vault were injured and parts of the 13th century stained-glass,
which it was not possible to remove from the high windows, were
damaged.
The vital parts of the choir escaped serious damage, and it was
possible during the second half of 1917, to carry out temporary repairs
after the retreat of the Germans. At the same time, in order to make
the choir — as well as the transept, which had also escaped serious
injury — once more available for public worship, a partition was
built shutting off the nave (photo p. 24).
This protective partition shielded part of the building very effect-
ively in 1918, when the Choir and Transept escaped serious damage.
Most of the fine 13th century stained-glass windows were removed
in 1915 to a place of safety.
They were originally taken from the church of Saint-Yved-de-
Braines and inserted during the 19th century in the high windows of
the apse and those of the Lady Chapel
Thanks to the protective measures taken, the interior decoration
of the choir escaped injury. It dates from the 18th century and
comprises a high altar of marble, surrounded by a wrought-iron railing,
and flanked by two marble statues of the Virgin and the Angel Ga-
briel, depicting the Annunciation. Two consoles, of carved and gilded
wood with marble tops, complete this group. The stalls only are 17th
century.
The North Arm of the Transept.
The north arm of the transept, flanked by aisles, shows the same
arrangement as the nave, but ends in a straight wall (late 13th century)
which was ornamented in the 14th century. A clerestory gallery
joining the triforium of the side walls, and carried on small, light
columns, is built against this wall. Above are pierced a row of bays
and a fine rose-window containing old stained glass.
During the war, a fine picture by Rubens (1635), painted for the
Franciscan Fathers in return for their having nursed him through
an illness contracted at Soissons, was removed from the north arm of
the transept to a place of safety. This picture, which represents the
Adoration of the Shepherds, has a fine frame of carved and gilded
wood of the Regency period.
The bombardments did little damage to the north arm of the tran-
sept and to the intersection of the transepts. The worst injury was
the falling in of one of the vaults of the north arm, and the breaking
of the arch-band uniting two of the large pillars of the transept.
28
THE ART TREASURES OF THE CATHEDRAL
The art treasures.
In addition to the worlis of
art preserved in the choir and
transept, tlie Cathedral pos-
sesses a fragment of a 16th
century tapestry, all that
remains of^a large piece devo-
ted^tOj,the legend of Saint-
Gervais and Saint-Protais,
which, before the War, hung
in the north aisle of the
nave.
Before the War, at the
entrance to the nave on each
side of the main portal, were
memorial statues of two ab-
besses of the ancient abbey
of Notre-Dame, represented
kneeling, with folded hands,
in the costume of the period :
Henriette de Lorraine d'Elbeuj,
abbess from 1660 to il669,
and Gabrielle Marie de la
Rochefoucauld (1683-1693).
Photographs of these two
statues are given below.
In the sacristy are preserv-
ed fragments of flamboyant
style woodwork, a 17th century chalice of finely chased gilt silver, a
magnificent Crucifix by Girardon and a fine reliquary in gilt copper
(1560), representing the plan of Soissons with its battlemented walls
and churches of the period. {See p. 3.)
It
1
i^|iifiBLi[i^
WOODWORK IX THE SOUTHERN AISLE.
HKSKIKTTE DE LORRAINE D'ELBEUF
Funeral SUitues la Iwo
n.VBRIELLE-MARIE DF LA HOCHl.riU'CAULT)
of the old Abbey j}i Notre-Dame.
Sec Uincrari], p. 13.
29
Side facades of the Cathedral.
The exterior ol Soissons Cathedral is remarl<able for the great sim-
plicity of its lines and its well-balanced construction.
The high vaults are supported by two super-imposed 13th century
flying buttresses, which are supported on one side by powerful abut-
ments and on the other by small engaged columns, the capitals of
which are decorated with crocliets. (See photos, pp. 20, 22, 24).
Against the straight wall which ends the north arm of the transept
are 14th century radiating arca-
des (p. 30 ). This wall is pierced
by a large rose-window set in a
tlerce-point arch. It ends in a ga-
ble with 14th century ornament,
and is flanked by two bell-turrets,
one of which was destroyed.
(Photos, pp. 30 & 31).
To the east of the north arm of
the transept, obstructing the first
window of the choir aisle, is a 14th
century portal with a sharply
pointed gable, supported by two
buttresses (photo opposite). The
higher finish and greater adornment
of 14th century decorative art is
clearly to be seen here : sharply
pointed gables ornamented with
trefoil over the portal and buttres-
ses, and intricately carved bou-
quets of foliage on the capitals,
replacing the hooked crockets of
the preceding century.
NORTHERN FRONT OF THE CATHEDRAL
NORTH FRONT. Cfvffir and North Arm of TrcmBepi, Nov. 1918. See descnptiort, p. 29.
The Exterior of the Cathedral (Nov. 1918).
The bombardments seriously damaged the side fafades.of the cathe-
dral. All the stonework, bays, flying buttresses and abutments,
and all the roofing and framework collapsed as far as the first bays
of the nave. The building
is, so to speak, cut into
two unequal parts through-
out its entire width, by
an immense gap. {Photo
p. 31, Panorama p. 14).
The rounded arm of the
transept and the south end
of the choir suffered com-
paratively little. On the
other hand, the bombard-
ments seriously injured
the chevet and the north
front of the choir. The
upper part of one of the
high windows in the apse
was struck. A buttress of
the Lady Chapel was badly
broken, while two unexplod-
ed shells are embedded in
the damaged stone-work of
THE FIRST ^^^^^^^^^■[^?*Ejf^-v;""l^-" [ |@ ^ neighbouring buttress.
SHELLS TO ^^^^^HH^^Kfi^'W'^;^-^ \ l^X^ On the north front of the
HIT THE ^^^■■^^HL .^(fe ^ ^\ ("X,^^ choir, most of the abut-
MAiN ROOF. ^^^^I^^^^BK. \'- a \ ^«»X^~<^^ ments were damaged and
the flying buttresses which
support it, more or less in-
See Ilinerary, p. 13.
31
;NORTH FRONT. North Arm of Transept, Nave and Chopelle des (Euvres, Nov. ]918.
jured. The roofing was ruined and the framework broken. The
north arm of the transept, especially the gable, was also somewhat
damaged. One of the turrets surrounding it was broken off {Photo
above).
However, the north front of the nave suffered most {photo above).
In addition to the opening made at the west end, the stone-work and
roofing were injured throughout their entire length. Only the last
two windows next the transept retained their mullions, the others
being more or less completely destroyed. Of the flying-buttresses
and abutment-piers, very little remains standing.
THE CHAPKr.LE
DES
CEDVRES.
Seen from the corner of IJie Rues de la Bue.rie and Jaulzy, Nov. 1 918.
32
PLACE DE LA CATIIEDTIALE
VISIT TO THE TOWN
On leaving the Cathedral, follow the itinerary oi). page 13.
The surroundings of Soissons, like tlie catliedral, suffered^'severely
from tlie bombardments. In tlie Place de la Cathedrale (or Place Man-
toue), the Rue des Minimes
and the Place du Cloltre are
broken roofs, and in the
Rue du Beflroi, ruins of
houses.
At n" 6 of the Place de la
Cathedrale, in front of the
bombarded Presbytery,
stands a much damaged
13th century tower (photo
opposite) all that remains
of the old Bishop's Palace,
rebuilt in 1638, of brick
and stone, at the south of
the Place between the Rue
del'lSvSche and the Rue des
Minimes.
In the court of the Bishop's
Palace (reached through the
Rue de I'Evechi), near the
Rue des Minimes, theres till
stand about 15 yards of the
old Gallo-Roman wall which
surrounded the town (hist,
mon.)
The wall has a facing of dressed stone interrupted at frequent inter-
vals' by a string-course of red bricks.
To reach the Place da Cloltre Lake the Rue de I'Eueclie, round the chevet
oj the Cathedral.
PLACE PE LA
OATHtoEALE
AND RUE DTJ
BEFFROI.
Sec Ilincrary, p. 13.
3:!
THE PLACE nU OLOITKE IX 1014.
The Place du Cloitre, at right angles to the north portal ol the Ca-
thedral, was formerly lined by the houses of the Canons. Of these
old dwellings there remain three bays in tierce-point (13th century),
on the first story of a house (X" 14) in the Place {on the left of the pho-
tographs on this page).
Opposite are two Renaissance fagades.
Most of the houses in the Place were badly damaged liy shells aim-
ed at the cathedral.
Fortunately, these three remarkable lajades escaped injury.
THE' PLACE T)U CLOITRE IN 191S.
34
THE GRAND PLACE
Take the Hue du College
on the left, devastated by
incendiary bombs from
aeroplanes {photo oppo-
site) ; at the end of a blind
alley stands the door of
the college (hist, mon.)
{Photo below) built bet-
ween 1740 and 1760.
Doric pillars support a
large frontal with decor-
ative carving represent-
ing Pailas and Ceres.
This door is intact,
but the college buildings suf-
fered severely.
Several shells penetrated the
walls and roofing, exploding in
the dormitories and class-rooms
and destroying all before
them.
Follow the Rue du Collige as
far as the Hue des Cordeliers
(first on the right) which leads
to the Grand 'PI ace (photo
below). Here are 18th century
houses (N- 9-11), the early
19th century theatre and a
late 19th century ornamental
fountain.
The theatre suffered severely
from bombardment, its roof
being completely destroyed,
but the fountain escaped
injury.
THE
OUAND'PLACE
iST) THEATRE. f
See Itinerary, p. 13.
r "
35
SAINT-L*.GEIl
CHXTRCH
AND
nOISITT,
Take the rue Saint-Leger as far as the Church of Saint-Le'ger, the
houses round about which have been destroyed (photo above).
CHURCH OF SAtNT-LtGER
This church was formerly part of an abbey founded in 1152 in memo-
ry of Saint-L^ger, Bishop of
Autun, assassinated in 678 by
the Mayor of tlie Palace,
Ebroin.
The nave and west front
were rebuilt in the 17th cen-
tury, after the sack of the
monastery by the Huguenots
In 1567. It is now secula-
rized.
The nave, separated from
the rest of the building by a
wall, was used before the
war as a hall for public meet-
ings, while a geological mu-
seum was to have been ins-
talled in the transept and
choir.
The fafadeis 17th century.
The central semi-circular
porch Is supported by twin
columns with Ionic capitals.
Its large doorway, sur-
mounted by a broken trian-
gular frontal, is flanked by
fluted pilasters.
SAI\-T-Lt)aEIl
CHUKCH.
3r,
SAINT-LEGER CIH-'IICH
SAlNT-LfiGEK CHURCH,
Cloister and North Front. In the backgnmnd : Ruined Tower:
Above the porch rises the two-stoi'ied tower. The first story has
a single semi-circular bay on each front, and is divided by Corinthian
pilasters. The second story has two twin bays and fluted columns
with Corinthian capitals at the corners.
The whole east front of the upper story was demolished by the bom-
bardments (photo above). The windows and corner columns fell
on the roof of the nave, breaking it in many places.
The nave, with double side-aisles, was reconstructed in the 17th
century, and is of little interest. Three of its vaulted bays have fallen
in (photo Oelow).
See Itinerary, p. 13.
37
.The Iwo-afmed transept,
as well as the choir which
terminates in a canted chevet
(pholos opposite and below)
were less injured. They date
from the 13lii century, but
Iiave been restored. They
have pointed vaults, and are
lighted by high and low
windows separated by a
narrow triforium. The win-
dows of the transept-ends
and of the choir are dou-
ble and surmounted by a
rose-window ; those of the
apse are single and framed
outside by abutments. The
wall at the end of the north
arm of the transept, at the
back of which were the mo-
nastic buildings, has no open-
ing, but that of the south
arm |is entirely open. The
exterior fafades of both arms
end in a gable pierced by
narrow slits and are flanked
gonal turrets
by a shell.
Shell holes arc visible in the walls of the chevet and in the vaultin
of the south arm of the transept.
by buttresses in the form of poly-
The east buttress of the north arm was badly damaged
38
THE CLOISTER, SAINT-L^GER CHURCH
THE CLOISTER OF ST-L^QER OHTJRCH IS 1914,
TAe old cloister was'full of llowers...
Through the north aisle of the nave of the church the old cloister
of the abbey, built at the end of the 13th and beginning of the 14th
centuries, is reached. The north and east galleries alone remain.
Each gallery comprises four bays, the pointed vaults of which are
supported on one side by brackets, and on the other by a cluster
of slender colonnettes.
See Itinerary, p. 13.
39
THE CLOISTER OF SX-LtoBK OHDROH, IX 1918.
...Then came the war.
To the east ot the cloister is the old 13th century chapter-house,
disfigured. It is lighted by three windows and has pointed arches
resting on columns with crocketed capitals.
The walls of the cloister and chapter-house bear numerous traces
of the bombardments.
The first door on the right in the east gallery of the cloister leads
to a crypt below the church, built at the beginning of the 12th century
and about 40 feet in length. It consists of two galleries with two
bays, the groined ribs of which are carried on square pillars flanked
by columns with cubic foliate capitals.
This crypt is prolonged, on the east, by a polygonal apse lighted
by small tierce-point windows and having pointed vaulting which was
rebuilt in the 13th century on the plan of the apse of the upper church
(photo below).
40
TUE 1I11TI;I.-I)H-V]LI,I'.
THE H6TEr.-IlT>VILI,E,
Fnnil overlookinj (he tjarilt'ns
Leaving Saini-Leijcr, turn lo llic lejl and follow Ihc line dc la Cunijn'-
(jalion as far as the Hdtel-de-Ville.
The H61el-de-Ville occupies the old HiHcl de I'liitendaiuo, buill
in 1772 on the site of tlie old castle which belonycd to the Counts of
Soissons in the Middle-Ages. Struck in various places by lari^c ca-
libre shells, it suffered considerable damage (photo above).
Its Museum and Library did not escape damage and wore, more-
over pillaged, while some of the pictures in the museum were lacerat-
ed. However, many objects were removed in time to be saved.
The museum contains some fine sculpture, including : the tympa-
num of a 13th century portal taken from the Church of Saint-Yvcd-
de-Braisne, representing The Descent of Christ into Hades; another
defaced 14th century tympanum from the cloister of Saint-,Jean-des-
Vignes ; a Romanesque storied capital: Abraimm sacrificing Isaac
(plwlo p. 41) ; other 12tli century capitals with foliage ; the carved
lintel of a Renaissance mantelpiece ; the memorial statue of an Abbess
of Kotre-Dame, etc.
TRENCHES IN THE OAKDENS OF THE HuTEI-DE-VILLE.
See Itinerary, p. 13.
41
The other rooms of the museum contain objects of the pre-historic
or Gallo-Roraan epoch (e. g. Gallo-Roman dish in chased silver), an
important collection of medals and ceramic ware, picture galleries,
casts, etc...
The Library contains over 50 000 volumes and 200 manuscripts.
Among the latter should be noted : a beautifully illuminated 12th
century Missal of Saint-M6dard ;• a Bible of Saint- Yved-de-Braisne
(12th century) ; the Charters and Records of the Abbey of Saint-Jean-
des-Vignes ; a very fine manuscript of the first half of the 14th centu-
ry, with miniatures : The Pilgrimage of Human Life.
ABRAHAM SACRIFICING ISAAC.
Storied Roman Capital
On leaving (he H6tel-de-Ville, follow on the left, the Rue de la Congre-
gation, then take the first street on the right (Rue du Coq-Lombard)
and go round the block of buildings on the right, bounded by the Rue
du Coq-Lombard, Rue de Bauton and Rue des Francs-Boisiers which leads
back to the Rue de la Congregation.
This is one of the best preserved corners of old Soissons. In spite
of later structural alterations, several houses built between the 14th
and 17th centuries bear traces of their original construction. One
of them (n" 5 in the court) has a curious doorway with a carved 14th
century tympanum.
A carved panel over the doorway represents the King of Spain
bidding farewell to the King of- France. This doorway leads to a
tower of the same period (restored), the upper part of which was
struck by a shell.
Atn" 11, in the Rue de Bauton is the Palais-de-Justice, partly des-
troyed by shell-fire.
On leaving the Rue des Francs-Boisiers (see ruins of burnt houses),
follow the Rue de la Congregation on the right, then the Rue du Commerce
(its continuation) as far as the Place Saint-Pierre : on the left are the
ruins of the old Church of Sainl-Pierre-au-Parvis.
42
CHURCH OF SAINT-PIERRE-AU-PARVIS
OHUHOH OF
SAINT-PIEREE-
Atr-PARTIS
South fa^adi
before
the War
The old Church of Saint-Pierre-au-Parvis (Hist. Man.)
The apse, transept and three bays of the nave of the church, secu-
larized at the time of the Revolution, were pulled down in 1800.
The two remaining bays of the nave were greatly damaged during
the war by the explosion of a store of grenades. The roof and most
of the vaulting have been destroyed.
Only the main front and the lower part of the south front (fine speci-
CHTIRCH OF
SAINT-PIEEKE-
AXT-PARVIS.
Novembet
1918.
See Itinerary, p. 13.
43
mens of the Romanesque style of the middle of the 12th century) es-
caped with slight injury (photo p. 42).
At the corner of the Place Saint-Pierre and the Rue de la Vieille-Ga-
jjnerie there are two semi-circular windows of great beauty, visible
from the interior of the house no. 19-21.
Supported by four small columns with storied capitals representing
monsters and fantastic animals, these two windows (now blocked
up and serving as a wall for the first-floor room of a restaurant) are
all that remains of a large church which belonged to the old Abbey
of Notre-Dame.
This convent, founded in the 7th century , was rebuilt in 181h
century.
The new buildings, completely disfigured by interior alterations
and having no further historical interest, were used as barracks dur-
ing the war. They were destroyed .by the bombardments and fire.
Take the Rue de la Gagnerie, turn to the right into the Rue de la Ban-
niire, then again to the right into the Rue Notre-Dame, at the end of which
is the Maison de I'Arquebuse hist, mon.), built in 1626 for the Guild
of the Soissons Gunsmiths, and now devoted to military purposes
(photo below).
THE M.^ISON DE L'AEQUEBUSE.
It is a lodge of brick and stone surmounted by a very steep roof,
and containing a large hall lighted by ten bays. Its main front is em-
bellished with ornaments of war.
The entrance, built in 1638 by order of Marshal d'Estr^es, is Ionic
in style and surmounted by an entablature decorated with trophies.
The upper part of the entablature at the north-east corner of the
doorway was destroyed by a shell, while others injured the roof of the
lodge.
Take the Rue des Feuillants opposite, then Rue Saint-Martin on the
left, to the Place de la Ripublique, where are the Bourse du Commerce
(1898) and the Monument to the Defence of Soissons in 1870 (inau-
gurated in 1901).
On the south side of the square and bordered by the river Crise, there is
the fine garden of the Horticultural Society at present in very bad
condition.
Follow the Rue de Chdleon-Thierry, alongside the garden, then its con-
tinuation, the Boulevard Jeanne d'Arc, which' makes a sharp bend, to the
Abbey of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes.
44
ABBEY OF SAINT- JEAN-DES-VIGNES
ABBEY OF SAINT-JEAN-DES-VIGNES (Hist. Mon.)
Founded in 1076, the Abbey of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes was one of
the richest and most powerful monasteries of the Middle-Ages.
The liberality of the Kings of France, bishops, nobility and middle
classes enabled the monks in the 13th and 14th centuries to erect a
large abbey-church and important monastic buildings, the plan of
which has been preserved in an engraving of 1673, reproduced be loir.
The plan is that followed almost invariably for monastic buildings.
In the middle is the abbey-church. The monastery buildings pro-
per : the rooms of the Regulars to which strangers are not admitted,
the Novices' quarters, the dormitories and refectory, are grouped
round the four galleries of the cloister, which extend from the south
front of the church.
On the east side of the cloister is a smaller cloister, abutting on
which are the strangers' rooms : the refectory and dormitories.
Behind, stands the isolated hospital with its own chapel. Near the
entrance is the Abbot's house, and further to the east, the store-rooms.
The entrance was fortified, and a continuous wall with roadway,
loop-holes and watch-towers, completely encircled the Abbey.
Beyond this wall stretched the vineyards and agricultural estates
of the monastery. Although despoiled during the Hundred Years
War, and later during the religious wars, the Abbey of Saint-Jean-
des-Vignes remained rich and flourishing until the Revolution when
the monks were expelled. Some years later (1805), an imperial decree
issued at the request of the Bishop of Soissons, ordered the demo-
lition of the church, the materials of which were to be used for
repairing the cathedral. The protests of the inhabitants induced
the Bishop to have the main front preserved.
See Ilineranj, p. 13.
45
The Facade of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes before the War.
Three late 13th century portals surmounted by gables open in the
lafade. Under the central portal are two mutilated statues ; on the
right, Saint-Augustin ; on the left : Saint-John the-Baptist clothed
in the skin of an animal.
A graceful clerestory gallery, continued at Ihe baclc round a wide
platform, which at one time formed, a gallery above the grand nave,
separates the central portal from the large rose-window set in an irregu-
lar arch. The latter has lost its interior net-work of mullions and is
surmounted by a gable. The gallery and rose-window are late 14th
century.
A two-storied tower crowned by a spire rises above each of the side
portals. The first story dates from the end of the 14th century. The
upper part, which differs in each tower, is more than a century later.
The south tower (on the right of the photo below), was about 230 feet
in height.
The north tower,
finished in 1520,
was higher (about
244 feet) and more
massive.
On the first sto-
ry ^in the niche
next the large rose-
window, a statue
of the Virgin faces
a statue of the An-
gel of the Annun-
ciation, which
stands on the op-
posite buttress of
the south tower.
Both stories of
the north tower,
separated by a
Flamboyant gallery
with very sharply
pointed gables, are
pierced with large
bays divided by a
muUion,
On the west side,
against the muUion
of the upper bay,
is a figure of Christ
crucified.
The octagonal
spire, surrounded
by four turrets, is
pierced on each face
by three openings
of different sizes,
the largest being
under-most, while
its angles are adorn-
ed with project-
ing crockets.
FRONT OF
THE ABBEY
OF SI-JEAN-
DES-VIGNES
BEFOKE
THE WAK.
46
ABBEY OF SAINT- JEAN-DES-VIGNES
NORTH
TOWER.
SOUTH
TOWER,
THE EEONT IN 1918.
THE BOOEWATS IS THE MAIS FRONT (1918).
Pari of thu ornamental stone-worh was damaged bu fm in J S70. Keystones of the matting
were shattered by shell-fere in 1914.
See Itinerarij, p. 13.
47
SOUTH
TOWER.
!«OKTH
TO WEB.
THK
REAK PIPE
OF THE
M.4IN FRONT.
On the tefl:
Entrance
to the
Cloister.
rhe
fagade of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes after the bombardments.
Previously, in 1870, the fafade of the church liad been badly damag-
ed. The German shells set fire to a store of hay housed under the
porches, the splays of which were destroyed (p. 46).
In 1914, it suffered fresh injury, both spires being struck by shells.
The south tower lost its upper part, the remaining portion being torn
open at the base. The other tower was badly indented near its point,
while the carvings of the buttresses were injured. The whole fafade
was moreover pitted by shell-splinters.
The damage caused in 1918 was considerably greater. In some
places the stone-work of the portals and towers was entirely destroyed,
arid in others indented more or less deeply. The fine and delicate
carvings of the towers were also smashed. The north tower suffer-
ed most. A breach, jeopardizing its stability, was made almost the
whole way up, and the upper part of the spire fell to the ground, like
the other spire had done four years before. The interior vaulting which
connected the two towers, partially fell in.
At the back of the fafade {photo above) which was also struck in
several places, there are still traces of the first bay of the old nave
of the abbey church, pulled down under the Empire.
48
THE GREAT CLOISTER OF SAINT- JEAN-DES-VIGNE S
The Great Cloister of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes.
Under the south portal stands a 13th century doorway, with vault-
ing and tympanums decorated with finely carved foliage, which
led from the abbey church to the great cloister.
Of the great 14th century cloister, only the south and west galleries
remain. Each has seven^bays with pointed arches resting, on one
side, on brackets ornamented with foliage or human figures, and on the
other, on piers surrounded by small columns '{photos above and below).
Tlie large arches in tierce-point, ornamented with fine mouldings
and separated by highly-wrought buttresses, formed an inner arcade
composed of two bays surmounted by a rose-window. Traces of it
are left in three bays of the south gallery (photo below). The arches
formerly contained windows.
SOUTHERN
GAILERY
or THP.
CLOtSTKE,
NOV. 1918.
See Ilinerary, p. 13.
49
The cloister, especially the south end, was often struck by German
shells, one piercing the vaulting of a bay, another damaging the carv-
ings of the exterior buttresses.
The Refectory.
The refectory {photo below), erected at the^end of the 13th century,
was spoiled after the Revolution by its conversion to military uses.
50
THE GHEAT CLOISTER OF SAINT- JEAN-DES-VIGNES
WESTERN GALLERY OF THE CLOISTER AND THE REFECTORY.
The refectory, over 130 feet in length, contains two naves with
pointed vaulting. The pointed arches rest on fine columns with fo-
liate capitals, which are buttressed outside by piers engaged in the
stonework Like all monastery refectories, it has a raised and vaulted
platform, from which one of the monks read aloud during meals.
The refectory, used as a store-house, is divided into two stories by
a floor which runs below the capitals of the columns.
Outside the refectory, on the side next the cloister, were six large
rose-windows, since transformed into small rectangular windows, and
on the west front, eight tierce-point windows, now blocked up.
At the base of the loft-roof, set at intervals, are dormer-windows,
whereof one Renaissance.
The roof, damaged in places, was completely destroyed by the
bombardments over several of the bays. A large breach, already
repaired, was made in the end bay on the east side. One buttress
was destroyed and the adjacent part of the framework of one oi! the
rose-windows broken (photo above).
The great cloister communicated on the east with a small cloister,
rebuilt about 1550 in Renaissance style, of which several bays of the
south gallery remain standing.
Lastly, on this side of the fapade of the church, to the east, is a
building, re-erected in the 16th century for the Abbot's residence,
but which has been completely disfigured by its adaptation for mili-
tary purposes. It is flanked by an octagonal turret containing a stair-
case.
On leaving the Abbey, lake the Rue Saint-Jean on the right, as jar as the
Place Dauphine, in which is the Sous-Prefecture, housed in a mansion
built at the beginning of the 19th century. It was struck by numerous
shells
See Itinerary, p. 13.
51
IHE KUE DES MINIUES.
Tafce on the left the Rue de Panleu which runs alongside the build-
ings of the old Grand S6minaire (late 17th century), whose 18th
century chapel is decorated with beautiful painted and gilded wood-
work, greatly damaged.
Many shells fell on the Grand S^minaire, causing serious damage.
A great part of the roofing was destroyed and in places large [open-
ings were torn in the walls.
At the north-west end of the park of the Grand S^minaire, excava-
tions made in the 19th century, now filled in, uncovered the remains
of a Roman amphitheatre. These remains indicated a theatre of
very large dimensions, measuring about 470 feet across its greatest
width, while the theatre at Orange mesures little over 300 feet.
Return to the Cathedral via the Rue de la Buerie, a continuation of the
Rue de Panleu. On the right is the Rue des Minimes with its burnt
houses (photo above).
THE CATEEDEAI QUAKTEK IX 1917.
In the background: the Cathedral Tower still standing.
52
FIRST ITINERARY — VISIT TO THE SURROUNDINGS
Pl.dela Cathedmie
Starting.-point : Place de la Cathedra le.
The following- itinerary includes the defensive works of Saint-Cr^-
pin-en-Chaye and Le Mail, the first French and German lines from
Pasly to Saint-Paul, and the bridge-head on the right bank of the Aisne,
in front of the Faubourg Saint-Waast .
Starting from .the Cathedral, follow the streets Indicated by
continuous lines in the direction of the arrows.
The numbers indicate the pages where the corresponding plioto-
graphs will_l)e found,
Sec Ilineranj, p. 52.
53,
Follow the Rue de la Buerie to the Rue Sainl-Christophe, which take to
the left as far as the place Saint-Christophe To the north of this square
take the Boulevard Pasteur, /ollow its continuation (a narrow road) which
leads direct to the Chlbteau de Saint-Crepin-en-Chaye (see outline
map, p. 52).
Numerous defensive works surrounded this cliateau and the farm
belonging to it. These buildings, now entirely in ruins, occupied the
site of an abbey founded in the 12th century.
CHATB.tU OF
ST-CKftPIN-
EN-CHATE.
January IQIO.
On the left: ruui, ui larm and bomb-proof shelter ; on the riqU: Irenoh lending
to the Chdleuu seen in the background through the trees.
54
THE MAIL
After visiting Saint-Cripin, taI(B the road (V. O. 15), along which ran
strong defence-works and which leads to the Promenade du Mail. Follow
the promenade towards the town as far as Pont-Neuf.
The Promenade du Mail, extending from the H6tel-de-Ville to Vaux-
rot, contained trench throughout its entire length which led to
the front lines in the northern sector.
The Mail, bordered by the river Aisne and planted with century-
old trees, dates from the 17th and 18th centuries, and before the
War was one of the finest public gardens in France.
It was completely spoilt by formidable defence-works. A series
of trenches, strengthened by defence-works of every kind and by strong
points such as the Brasserie du Mail on the Bank of the Aisne, began
in the middl of the Mail. They branched out at the end of the Pro-
menade into a great number of outposts, blockhouses and obser-
vation posts, from which the naked eye could discern the entrench-
ments of the camouflaged German outposts on the right bank of
the Aisne.
Communication with the Allies' bridge-head on both banks was
ensured by foot-bridges, constantly under fire, and temporary ways
over the two partially destroyed bridges.
THE Mill
THE WAK,
In the background : the band-stand near which General de Grandmatson was killed.
See Itinerary,' p.'_52.
55
THE
PONT-NEOF,
BLOWN UP
FT THE
BP.ITISH.
Cross the Aisne at the Pont-Neuf.
The Pont-Neuf or Pont-du-Mall, over which passes the National
Road (N" 2) from Paris to Maubeuge, was built in 1903 of reinforced
concrete.
On September 1, 1914, the British blew up the middle arch. It
was subsequently found possible to contrive a crossing over the brok-
en arch, hidden from the view of the enemy by the gaily coloured
tents of a travelling show which happened to be in Soissons when war
was declared (photo below).
THE
PONT-NKCT
OAMOUFLAOED.
50
THE FRENCH FIRST LINE
ThR French First Lin? in the Distillery.
. From the Pont-Neuf, take the Avenue de Laon to the Place de Laon,
then take the Avenue de Vauxrot on the left to Vauxrol and Pasly. {See
.map, p. 53 and Itinerary, p. 52)
About half a mile from tlie Place de Laon are the ruins of a large dis-
tillery which formed the first French position and was strongly fortifled.
On the north of the distillery, beyond "No man's land" with its
barbed-wire entanglements, a very important glass-works formed the
first German line. Before the war, these glass-works turned out se-
See Ilincrari/, p. 52,
THE
GLASS-WOKKS
AT VAUXXOT.
In the
foreground :
A Qerman
grave.
T'tf Germtin Fir.Bl Line in Ihe Glass-Works.
veral millions ol champagne bottles every year. A heap 0/ these
bollles is visible in the photo below.
Between the buildings of these works, now completely ruined by
the incessant bombardments, are countless passages and trenches
ol reinforced concrete, observation posts, blockhouses, concrete ma-
chine-gun positions and deep dug-outs.
TI'E
GLASS- WORKS
OF VAUXROT.
In ttie
background :
Hill 1 3B.
VAUXROT
In Ihe I'ackground : Chapel of the. Glass-Works. To the lift o) the Chapei, .. Gernvm
Machlne-Gun was posted below a crane.
From Vauxrot to Pasly, the lines were separated by the Aisne. On
both banks of the river were outposts and advanced trenches with
machine-guns {photo below).
From Vauxrot, proceed to Pasly {see map, p. 53).
From the church at Pasly there is an interesting wallc to the caves
seen in the photograph on p. 59 shutting in the horizon to the north
of the village. Follow ihe road for nearly half-a-mile, then turn to
the right into the road which goes up the side of the hill and skirts the
caves. The latter were fortified by the Germans, and afterwards inha-
bited by the population of Pasly.
See Itinerary, p. 52.
A monument to the school-teachers shot by the Germans in 1870,
was destroyed by the enemy in 1914 (photo below).
SCHOOL-
TEAOHEllS'
MONUJIENI
DESTROYED BY
THE GERMANS
AT PASLT.
[see above)
The road leads back to the village. Return via Vauxrol to tlie Place
de Laon, then follow on the left the Avenue de Laon to Saint-Paul.
The defence-works visited between Pasly, the glass-works and
the distillery, ex-
tended from there
in an almost
straight and formi-
dable entrenched
line to the National
Road from Paris to
Maubeuge (N. 2).
After crossing
this road, about
half-way between
Soissons and Crouy,
they encircle the
hamlet of St-Paul
on the north and
east. This forti-
fied hamlet formed
ORaANIZEB
CAVE
AT PASLY
60
SAINT-PAUL AXD SAINT-MKDAR D
the Saint-Paul salient and protected the faubourg of Saint-Waast.
From Saint-Paul the trenches, sloping towards the south, extended
in front of the strongly fortified Faubourg of Saint-Medard and rejoin-
ed the Aisne at the point where the river forms a great loop above
Soissons. It was the eastern sector of the defences, covering alike
the Faubourg of Saint-Waast and the bridge-head on the right bank.
To go from Sainl-Paul lo Saint- Medard, return to the Place de Laon.
Take on the left the Boulevard de Laon, then the Boulevard de Metz which
continues it, to the Place d' Alsace-Lorraine. Take the Rue de Bouvines
on the left to the Abbey of Saint-IVI§dard.
The Faubourg of Saint-M^dard is as old as the town itself. In fact,
it existed in the Roman era, and later became one of the favorite resi-
dences of the -Merovingian Kings, who owned a large "villa" there.
BESTllOYBn
BRIDGE
OVER THE
AISNE.
This bridge connected Pasly with Soissons.
See Itinerary, p. 52.
61
IN THE
ST-PAUl
SALIENT
About 556, Clotaire I had the greatly revered Bishop of Noyon,
Salnt-Medard, buried in this villa, and erected over his grave a basi-
lica, round which a monastery was built.
After playing an important part in the history of the early Middle-
Ages, this monastery attracted 300 000 pilgrims as late as 1530.
The buildings were devastated during the many sieges to which Sois-
sons was subjected. Rebuilt in the 17th, they were converted in
the 19th century into a school lor deaf-mutes and the blind.
01 the ancient buildings, there remains only a crypt, one of the
oldest in France and of great archcEological interest.
Built in the 9th century and measuring about 80 feet in length,
8 feet in width and 13 feet in height, this crypt (photo below) includes
a central gallery with groined vault, off which open chapels.
The vaulting rests on very thick walls, in which small niches have
been hollowed out as seats for the pilgrims.
One of the oldest crypts in France.
62
FAUBOURG SAINT-WAAST
lielurn to int Place d' Alsace-Lorraine, take the Rue du Champ-Boail-
lani as far as the first street on the right {Rue Messire-P.-Leroy^ which
leads to the Church of Saint-Waast.
The church ol Saint-Waast, built in the 19th century, consists of
a large central pile with aisles on each side of the nave. A graceful
belfry, ending in a spire, rises over the portal. The interior of the
building is not vaulted, but has a timber-work roof. The arches are
PAPBOCEO
ST-WAABT.
Defence-Worl,s in the Rue deg Qravien, near the Church {see Itinerary).
See Itinerary, p. 52.
63
supported by square pillars and the walls ornamented with pictures.
The bombardments did great damage. Everywhere the root was
broken in and a large part completely destroyed. In the walls are
numerous gaps, while the fafade is pitted by shell splinters. The
belfry, very badly damaged on the first story, had two of its sides in
the upper story completely demolished. The spire fell down in 1918.
The interior of the main building suffered less, but the timber-work
roof was badly damaged.
The Faubourg Saint- Waast led to the first lines of the north-east
sector of Soissons, which passed north of the hamlet of Saint-Paul.
Because of its situation, it had been put in a complete state of de-
fence and was continually bombarded. The railway station, gas-works
and most of the factories were destroyed. In places, it is nothing
more than a heap of ruins with, here and there, vestiges of the old mili-
tary works.
Return to the Rue du Champ-Bouillant, follow same as far as the Aisne,
crossing the latter at the Pont Saint-Waast.
rr
,
r '4m
'h^^^^mmJ^^^^M
1
THE FONT
BT-WAAST
OS
PONT DES
ANOLAIS.
In the
background,
the
Pont-Neuf,
Sep^. 1914.
The pont Saint-Waast, also called the Pont-des-Anglais (since the
war) dates from the Middle-Ages (photo above). Of the original
structure there remain the arches on the Saint-Waast side (restored)
The rest of the bridge consists of an iron platform which the Ger-
mans destroyed on September 13, 1914, when they evacuated the
town.
Rebuilt by the British in 1914, together with a foot-bridge,
it ensured communication between the centre of the town and
the Faubourg Saint-Waast, in spite of incessant bombardments.
Return to the Cathedral by the Rue la Banniere, flue de Montre-
vers, and Rue de I'Hdtel-Dieu.
CONTENTS
Chief Historical Facts 2
First Qerman Occupation, 1914 4
Second Qerman Occupation, 1918 7
Ttie Bombardments 10
A Tliirty-iVionths' Siege 11
VISiT TO THE CiTY
The Cathedral 15 31
St-L6ger Church 35 39
The H6tei-de-Viiie 40 41
St-Pierre-au-Parvis Church 42
Maison de i'Arquebuse. 43
St-Jean-des-Vignes Abbey 44 50
VISIT TO THE SURROUNDINGS
St-Crepin-en-Chaye Ch§iteau 53
Vauxrot-Pasly 56 - 60
Saint-Paul — Saint- iVIedard 60 61
Faubourg St- Waast 62 63
STREET I)EFES03-W.1RK? IN T.TH F.\UB31IRG ST-WA.\ST.
Vin bis-.2.U-> bis-6 1920
IMP. KAPP, PARIS
• OFFICE NATIONAL DU TOURISME '
//, Rae Je Surim. PARIS- 8'
The ' Office National du Tourisme ' was created by
Act of Parliament on Apiil 8tli 1910, and reo{'gan)z;d
in 1917. It enjoys civil privileges and financial autonomy.
It is directed by an Administrative Council chosen
by the Minister of Public Works.
Its mission is to seek out every means of developing
travel ; to urge, and if necessary to take any measure
capable of ameliorating the. conditions of the transport,
circulation and sojourn of tourists.
It co-ordinates the efforts of touring societies and
industries, encourages them in the execution of their pro-
grammes and stimulates legislative and administrative ini-
tiative with. regard to the development of travel in France.
It promotes understanding between the Public Services,
the great Transport Compemies, the Syndicats d'Initiative'
and the Syndicats Professionnels '.
It organises propagemda in foreign countries ; and tends
towiurds the creation of Travel Inquiry Offices in France
and abroad, with a view to making known the scenery and
monuments of Frjmce, as well as the health-giving powers
of French mineral waters, spas and bathing places.
ALL INQUIRIES WITH REGARD TO TRAVELLING
SHOULD BE ADDRESSED
TO THE • TOUI^ING-CLUB DE FRANCE '
65, Avenue de la Grande - Armee, 65
PARIS
THE ' TOURING-CLUB DE FRANCE'
WHAT IS IT ? WHAT ARE ITS USES P
»
The ' Touring-Club de France ' (founded in 1 890), is
at the present time the largest Touring Association in the
whole world. Its principal aim is to introduce France —
admirable country and one of the loveliest on earth —
to French' people themselves and to foreigners.
It seeks to develop travel in all its forms :on foot,'' on
horseback, on bicycle, in carriage, motor, yacht or railway,
and soon in aeroplane.
Every member of the Association receives a badge and
an identity ticket free of charge, as. also the Revue Men-
suelle ' every month.
Members have also the bene&t of special prices in a
certain number of affiliated hotels ; and this holds good
for the purchase of guide-books and Staff (Etat-major)
maps, as Well as those of the Ministere de I'lnterieur , the
T. C. F., etc. They may insert notices regarding the
sale or purchase of travelling requisites, in the ' Reviie '
(1 fr. per line). The ' Comite des Goiitentieux ' is ready
to give them counsel with regard to travelling, and
3.000 delegates in all the principsJ towns are able to give
them advice and information about thes curiosities of art
or of nature in the neighbourhood, as Well as concerning
the roads, hotels, motor-agents, garages, etc. .
Members are accorded free passage Across the fron^
tier for a bicycle or motor^'bicycle. For a motor-car the
Association gives a Triptyque ' ensuring free passage
through the ' douane ', etc.
ONE TRAVELS BEST IN FRANCE WHEN A MEMBER
OF THE ' TOURING-CLUB DE FRANCE
MICHELIN TOURING OFFICES
MICHELIN TYRE Co., Ltd., LONDON
Touring Office ■.: 81. Fulham Road. S. W.
MICHELIN & Cie, CLERMONT-FERRAND
Touring Office :: 97, Bd. Pereire, PARIS
Why ask the Way, when.
Michelin Will tell you free of charge ?
Drop a line, ring us up, or call at one of our
Touring Offices and you will receive a carefully
worked .out description of the route to follow.